,,from ,,dan ,,to ,,beersheba ,transcriber's ,notes ,punctuation has been standardized4 ,characters in small caps have been replaced by all caps4 ,non-printable characteristics have been given the following transliteration3 ,italic text3 -- text ,this book was written in a period when many words had not become standardized in their spelling4 ,words may have multiple spelling variations or inconsistent hyphenation in the text4 ,these have been left unchanged unless indicated with a ,transcriber's ,note4 ,the symbol #8' indicates the description in parenthesis has been added to an illustration4 ,this may be needed if there is no caption or if the caption does not describe the image adequately4 ,footnotes are identified in the text with a number in brackets #b and have been accumulated in a single section at the end of the text4 ,transcriber's ,notes are used when making corrections to the text or to provide additional information for the modern reader4 ,these notes are not identified in the text1 but have been accumulated in a single section at the end of the book4 ,illustration3 ,,jerusalem4 ,,from ,,dan ,,to ,,beersheba ,a ,,description ,,of ,,the ,,wonderful ,,land ,,with ,,maps ,,and ,,engravings ,,and ,a ,,prologue ,,by ,,the ,,author ,,containing ,,the ,,latest ,,explorations ,,and ,,discoveries ,,by ,,john ,p4 ,,newman1 ,d4,d41 ,,ll4,d4 ,bishop of the ,methodist ,episcopal ,church and ,member of the ,london ,society of ,biblical ,archology ,,revised ,,edition ,,new ,,york3 ,,hunt ,,eaton ,,cincinnati3 ,,cranston ,,curts ,copyright1 #ahib1 by ,,john ,p4 ,,newman1 ,,new ,,york4 ,,to ,,my ,,wife1 ,,the ,,joy ,,of ,,my ,,life4 ,this edition of ,bishop ,newman's book on ,palestine,from ,dan to ,beershebais demanded by its introduction into the course of study prescribed for the undergraduates in our ,annual ,conferences1 who1 during their ministry1 will have frequent occasion to refer to the history1 topography1 and customs of the ,holy ,land1 of which this book so fully and clearly treats4 ,,the ,,publishers4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,the two ,boundaries4,the parallel ,mountains4 ,the great ,valley4 ,inspired ,eulogies4 ,sterile ,soil4 ,gibbon ,comparison4 ,natural and miraculous ,causes of present ,sterility4 ,testimonies of pagan ,authors on the ancient ,productions of ,palestine4 ,land coveted by the great ,nations of ,antiquity4 ,a ,land of ,ruins4 ,present ,fertility and ,fruits4 ,richness of the ,north4 ,volney on the ,variety of the ,climate of ,palestine4 ,beauties of ,spring in the ,promised ,land4 ,flowers4 ,magnificent ,scenery4 ,standard of ,landscape ,beauty4 ,palestine is a ,world in ,miniature4 ,illustrations4 ,prophetical ,descriptions of the twelve ,tribeships4 ,wonderful ,correspondence4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,location of ,jerusalem4 ,strong defensive ,position of the ,city4 ,surrounding ,hills and ,valleys4 ,its ,situation compared to that of ,athens and ,rome4 ,true ,meaning of the #abeth ,psalm4 ,tower of ,psephinus4 ,the two ,valleys4 ,height of the adjacent ,mountains4 ,a ,city without ,suburbs4 ,modern ,wall4 ,goliath's ,castle4 ,immense ,stones of ,solomon's ,age4 ,ancient ,portals4 ,beautiful ,corner-stone4 ,pinnacle of the ,temple from which ,christ was tempted to throw himself4 ,golden ,gate4 ,tower of ,antonia4 ,objection to ,prophecy answered4 ,the ,bevel the ,sign of ,jewish ,masonry4 ,great ,cave beneath the ,city4 ,wanderings by ,torchlight4 ,solomon's ,quarry4 ,tyropean ,valley4 ,five ,hills of ,jerusalem4 ,mount ,zion4 ,royal ,abode4 ,herod's three ,towers4 ,splendid ,church of ,st4 ,james4 ,house of ,caiaphas4 ,scene of the ,last ,supper and of ,pentecost4 ,tomb of ,david4 ,royal ,plunderers4 ,proof of its ,antiquity4 ,home of the ,lepers4 ,sad ,sight4 ,akra4 ,bezetha4 ,napoleon's ,church4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,mount ,moriah4 ,site of ,solomon's ,temple4 ,surrounding ,walls4 ,great ,fosse4 ,pasha's ,palace4 ,council ,chamber of the ,jewish ,sanhedrim4 ,jews' ,place of ,wailing4 ,their cruel ,treatment4 ,scene on ,friday ,afternoon4 ,mournful ,spectacle4 ,high-priest4 ,prophecy fulfilled4 ,solomon's ,bridge4 ,its ,antiquity4 ,temple ,area4 ,tower of ,antonia4 ,shrines within the ,inclosure4 ,imposing ,view4 ,dome of the ,chain4 ,mosque of ,omar4 ,its grand ,exterior4 ,its ,history4 ,its ,portals4 ,its magnificent ,interior4 ,sacred ,rock within the ,mosque4 ,traditions4 ,scene of the ,offering of ,isaac and of other ,scriptural ,events4 ,mosque of ,el-,aksa4 ,its ,interior and ,history4 ,solomon's subterranean ,passageway4 ,extraordinary ,workmanship4 ,mosque of ,jesus4 ,solomon's great ,vaults4 ,they reflect his ,genius4 ,evidence of their ,antiquity4 ,solomon's great ,lake beneath his ,temple4 ,his ,work4 ,vicissitudes of ,mount ,moriah4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,valley of the ,dead4 ,tombs of the ,judges4 ,of ,el-,messahney4 ,of the ,kings4 ,valley of the ,kidron4 ,pillar of ,absalom4 ,traditional ,tombs4 ,jews' ,cemetery4 ,funeral ,procession4 ,mount of ,offense4 ,virgin's ,fountain4 ,gardens of ,siloam4 ,bridal ,party4 ,pool of ,siloam4 ,of ,en-,rogel4 ,vale of ,hinnom4 ,burning of ,children4 ,valley of ,slaughter4 ,potters' ,field4 ,solomon's ,coronation4 ,pools of ,gihon4 ,pool of ,hezekiah4 ,supply of ,water4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,laws of the ,credibility of ,tradition4 ,dean ,trench on ,words4 ,scenes of the historical ,events of ,christianity not well defined4 ,palm ,sunday in ,jerusalem4 ,crossing the ,mount of ,olives4 ,journey to ,bethany4 ,site of the ,city4 ,home of ,mary and ,martha4 ,tomb of ,lazarus4 ,christ frequented ,bethany4 ,to his ,visits is due its ,significance4 ,touching ,legends4 ,resurrection of ,lazarus4 ,scene of ,christ's triumphal ,march to ,jerusalem4 ,garden of ,gethsemane4 ,old ,gardener4 ,walls and ,iron ,gate4 ,place of ,sweet ,repose4 ,flowers4 ,pictures4 ,aged ,olive-trees4 ,overwhelming ,emotions4 ,ascent of the ,mount of ,olives4 ,three ,paths4 ,david's ,ascent4 ,connection of the ,mount with the two ,dispensations4 ,scene of the ,ascension4 ,true ,place4 ,commanding ,view from the ,summit of ,olivet4 ,passion ,week in ,jerusalem4 ,footsteps of our ,lord4 ,good ,friday in the ,holy ,city4 ,visit to the ,garden4 ,lord's ,supper4 ,sleepless ,night4 ,calvary4 ,true ,location4 ,its ,appearance4 ,appropriate ,place4 ,via ,dolorosa4 ,pilate's ,judgment-hall4 ,ecce ,homo ,arch4 ,legendary ,stations4 ,crucifixion of ,christ dramatized by the ,latin ,monks4 ,the ,procession4 ,ascent to ,calvary4 ,tumult4 ,spectators4 ,sermons4 ,the ,cross4 ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre4 ,architecture4 ,scene in the ,court4 ,the ,faade4 ,imposing ,interior4 ,chapel of the ,greeks4 ,rotunda4 ,dome4 ,holy ,sepulchre4 ,magnificent ,decorations4 ,its ,interior4 ,the ,tomb4 ,holy ,shrines4 ,not the ,tomb of ,christ4 ,difficulties of the ,question4 ,evidence for its ,identity4 ,objections4 ,argument against the ,site4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,forty ,days and forty ,nights in the ,holy ,city4 ,inside ,view of ,jerusalem4 ,streets4 ,buildings4 ,commerce4 ,a ,cosmopolitan ,city4 ,government ,officials4 ,taxation4 ,population4 ,turks4 ,dervishes4 ,fast of ,ramadan4 ,feast of ,beiram4 ,moslem ,sects4 ,their ,creeds4 ,quarter of the ,jews4 ,their wretched ,condition4 ,their ,nationalities4 ,pensioners4 ,jewish ,passover4 ,ceremonies witnessed4 ,jewish ,sabbath in ,jerusalem4 ,synagogue4 ,education4 ,mr4 ,touro and ,sir ,moses ,montefiore4 ,religious and ,industrial ,institutions4 ,christian ,sects in the ,holy ,city4 ,armenians4 ,their ,wealth4 ,greeks4 ,their ,influence4 ,latins4 ,their ,edifices4 ,monastic ,quarrels4 ,curious ,scene4 ,rivalry between ,france and ,russia4 ,russian ,gold4 ,protestant ,christianity in ,jerusalem4 ,english ,church4 ,house of ,charity4 ,the two ,slave ,girls4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,road to ,jericho4 ,delay4 ,caravan4 ,robbers4 ,ladies4 ,scenery4 ,waters of ,enshemesh4 ,wilderness of ,judea4 ,scene of ,christ's ,temptation4 ,thieves of ,jericho4 ,parable of the ,good ,samaritan4 ,brook ,cherith4 ,wild ,region4 ,elijah fed by the ,ravens4 ,first ,view of the ,plain of the ,jordan4 ,evening at ,jericho4 ,ruins of the ancient ,city4 ,historical ,events4 ,fountain of ,elisha4 ',ain ,dk4 ,castle of ,doch4 ,jericho of the ,new ,testament4 ,scene of ,herod's ,death4 ,town of ,riha4 ,site of ,gilgal4 ,great ,events4 ,sunrise on the ,plain of ,jericho4 ,richness of the ,plain4 ,quarantania4 ,description of ,turkish ,soldiers4 ,the ,ride4 ,banks of the ,jordan4 ,sources of the ,sacred ,river4 ,the ten ,fountains4 ,the three ,lakes4 ,descent and ,sinuosities of the ,river4 ,glen through which it flows4 ,flowers and ,trees on its ,banks4 ,birds in its ,shrubbery and ,beasts in its ,thickets4 ,its ,color4 ,depth4 ,rapidity4 ,twenty-seven ,rapids4 ,falls4 ,islands in the ,river4 ,roman ,bridges4 ,brook ,jabbok4 ,jacob and the ,angel4 ,war ,scenes4 ,entrance of the ,jordan into the ,dead ,sea4 ,meaning of ,jordan4 ,pilgrim's ,ford4 ,charming ,scenery4 ,mountains of ,moab4 ,vision of ,balaam4 ,vision of ,moses4 ,his ,death4 ,crossing of the ,jordan by the ,israelites4 ,probable ,place4 ,overflowing of the ,river4 ,causes4 ,translation of ,elijah4 ,cure of ,naaman4 ,baptismal ,stations of ,john the ,baptist4 ,bethabara4 non4 ,scene of ,christ's ,baptism here4 ,the ,argument for it4 ,journey to the ,dead ,sea4 ,robbers4 ,features of the ,sea4 ,delightful ,bath4 ,dimensions of the ,sea4 ,its ,bed coeval with the ,upper and ,lower ,valleys4 ,sea larger than formerly4 ,no ,outlet4 ,its ,waters evaporate4 ,peninsula4 ,island4 ,surrounding ,mountains4 ,hot ,springs of ,callirrhoe4 ,sublime ,chasm4 ,castle of ,machaerus4 ,wild ,glen4 ,river ,arnon4 ,scenery4 ,city of ,kerak4 ,ruins of ,zoar4 ,location of ,sodom4 ,manner of its ,destruction4 ,mountain of ,salt1 cause of the saltness of the ,sea4 ,lot's ,wife4 ,ruins of ,masada4 ,besieged by ,flavius ,silva4 ,tragical ,death of #fjj ,sicarii1 their ,wives and ,children4 ,fountain of the ,kid4 ,david and ,saul4 ,maon4 ,the ,home of ,abigail4 ,journey to ,bethlehem4 ,wilderness of ,engedi4 ,a ,night with the ,monks of ,mr ,sba4 ,the ,monastery4 ,bethlehem4 ,its ,names4 ,antiquity4 ,history4 ,convent of the ,franciscans4 ,the ,stable of the ,nativity4 ,present ,condition4 ,pictures4 ,the ,manger4 ,tomb of ,st4 ,paula4 ,cell of ,st4 ,jerome4 ,basilica of ,st4 ,helena4 ,evidence that this is the ,birthplace of ,christ4 ,stable in a ,house4 ,situation of ,bethlehem4 ,population4 ,beautiful ,women4 ,herodium4 ,tomb of ,herod the ,great4 ,cave of ,adullam4 ,hiding-place of ,david4 ,its ,wonders4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,en ,route for ,hebron4 ,travelers4 ,beautiful ,scenery4 ,ancient ,travelers4 ,evening4 ,gray's ,elegy4 ,search for ,lodgings4 ,hebron4 ,its ,name4 ,origin4 ,home of ,abraham4 ,history4 ,location of the ,city and its ,environs4 ,pools4 ,cave of ,machpelah4 ,the ,mosque over it4 ,tombs of the ,patriarchs and their ,wives4 ,prince of ,wales4 ,isaac still ,lives4 ,identity of the ,cave4 ,evidence4 ,united in ,death4 ,beersheba4 ,its ancient ,wells4 ,events of the ,past4 ,changeless ,customs4 ,abraham and the ,angels4 ,dining with an ,arab ,sheikh4 ,grapes of ,eshcol4 ,abraham's ,oak4 ,ruins4 ,pool of ,solomon4 ,his ,aqueduct4 ,plains of ,rephaim4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,land of the ,philistines4 ,its ,limits4 ,fell to the ,lot of ,simeon and ,dan4 ,origin of the ,philistines4 ,the meaning of the ,name4 ,their royal ,cities4 ,their ,god and ,goddess4 ,journey thither4 ,valley of ,roses4 ,baptism of the ,eunuch4 ,home of ,john the ,baptist4 ,slaughter of the ,jews in the ,city of ,bether4 ,site of ,bethshemesh4 ,home of ,samson4 ,village of ,zorah4 ,field where the ,angel appeared4 ,town of ,timnath4 ,lair of the ,lion4 ,home of ,delilah4 ,oriental ,weddings4 ,valley of ,shochoh4 ,scene of the ,conflict between ,david and ,goliath4 ,correspondence between ,scripture and the natural ,features of the ,place4 ,the ,valley4 ,the ,brook4 ,the smooth ,stones4 ,the ,sling4 ,the ,mountains4 ,the ,champions4 ,the ,victory4 ,home of ,goliath4 ,gath4 ,david's feigned ,insanity4 ,road to ,eleutheropolis4 ,its ,location4 ,great ,caves4 ,site of ,lachish4 ,its great ,battle-field4 ,sennacherib and ,hezekiah4 ,byron's ,hebrew ,melody4 ,gaza4 ,palm-groves4 ,direction of the ,road4 ,site of the ,city4 ,modern ,city4 ,ancient ,ruins4 ,christian ,church4 ,home of ,giants4 ,gates that ,samson carried away4 ,his ,prison4 ,the great ,feast4 ,samson called4 ,his ,presence alarms the ,multitude4 ,feats of ,strength4 ,death ,scene4 ,he is a ,failure4 ,alexander the ,great wounded at ,gaza4 ,a ,moslem ,city4 ,ascalon4 ,route thither4 ,stood near the ,sea4 ,ruins4 ,desolation4 ,history4 ,adorned by ,herod4 ,captured by the ,crusaders4 ,road to ,ashdod4 ,beautiful ,gardens4 ,no ,ruins4 ,dagon and the ,ark4 ,road to ,joppa4 ,villages4 ,joppa on the ,sea4 ,its ,antiquity4 ,floats of ,pine and ,cedar4 ,house of ,simon4 ,substantial ,structure4 ,peter's ,vision4 ,appearance of the ,town4 ,gate of the ,city4 ,population4 ,jews4 ,nubian ,magician4 ,magnificent ,orange-groves4 ,ramleh4 ,franciscans4 ,traditions4 ,antiquities4 ,tower4 ,view4 ,ludd4 ,eneas cured of ,palsy4 ,church of ,st4 ,george4 ,beautiful ,ruin4 ,nether ,bethhoron4 ,wretchedness4 ,upper ,bethhoron4 ,battle-field of ,gibeon4 ,the ,battle4 ,wonderful ,correspondence4 ,testimony of the ,rocks4 ,ajalon4 ,sun and ,moon stand still4 ,city of ,gibeon4 ,modern ,town4 ,gibeonites4 ,history4 ,death of the ,gladiators4 ,pool of ,gibeon4 ,murder of ,amasa4 ,solomon's ,dream4 8,the ,look-out40 ,mizpeh4 ,national ,rendezvous4 ,ebenezer ,stone4 ,saul chosen ,king4 ,minaret4 ,vast and magnificent ,prospect4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,northern ,palestine4 ,gibeah4 ,birthplace of ,king ,saul4 ,historical ,events4 ,thrilling ,story of ,rizpah watching her ,dead ,sons4 ,identity of the ,city4 ,field of the ,arrow4 ,parting of ,david and ,jonathan4 ,nob4 ,massacre of the ,priests4 ,the ,view4 ,birthplace of ,jeremiah4 ,geba4 ,pottage4 ,benighted4 ,yusef ,shang1 of ,beeroth4 ,a ,night of strange ,experience4 ,town of ,beeroth4 ,ancient ,bethel4 ,its ,desolation4 ,site of the ,city4 ,abraham's ,altar4 ,parting of ,abraham and ,lot4 ,the ,fountain4 ,jacob's ,flight and ,dream4 ,idolatry4 ,prophecy fulfilled4 ,route to ,shiloh4 ,romantic ,scenery4 ,robbers' ,fountain4 ,wild ,glen4 ,robbers4 ,their ,dance4 ,sinjil4 ,shiloh4 ,remains4 ,site discovered in #ahch4 ,tower4 ,damsels of ,shiloh carried off4 ,death of ,eli4 ,approach of the ,robbers4 ,an ,attack4 ,resistance4 ,again assailed4 ,again resist4 ,revolvers drawn4 ,escape4 ,overtaken4 ,third ,attack4 ,revolvers in demand4 ,sixteen against ,four4 ,serious ,moment4 ,one of the ,party whipped4 ,narrow ,escape4 ,lebonah4 ,ride to ,nablous4 ,grand ,view4 ,evening on the ,plain of ,mukhrah4 ,antiquity of ,nablous4 ,history4 ,its beautiful ,situation4 ,population4 ,inside ,view of the ,town4 ,character of the ,people4 ,christian ,school4 ,origin of the ,samaritans4 ,remnant of the ,nation4 ,their ,creed4 ,their religious ,peculiarities4 ,their ,high-priest4 ,their sacred ,writings4 ,vale of ,shechem4 ,its ,length and ,beauty4 ,cursings and ,blessings of the ,law4 ,the ,scene4 ,great ,congregation4 ,twin ,mountains4 ,jacob's ,well4 ,history4 ,sweet ,water4 ,evidence of its ,antiquity4 ,jesus at the ,well4 ,woman of ,samaria4 ,accuracy of its evangelical ,history4 ,well ,sold4 ,tomb of ,joseph4 ,symbol of his ,life4 ,ascent of ,mount ,ebal4 ,twenty ,lepers4 ,ascent of ,mount ,gerizim4 ,almond-groves4 ,ruins on the ,summit4 ,holy of ,holies of the ,samaritans4 ,traditions4 ,not the ,scene of the ,offering of ,isaac4 ,samaritan ,passover4 ,impressive ,moment4 ,lambs slain4 ,the ,feast4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,a ,price for ,politeness4 ,escort4 ,picturesque ,scenery4 ,samaria4 ,its ,founder4 ,its ,vicissitudes4 ,residence of ,elisha4 ,famine4 ,city beautified by ,herod4 ,its ,location4 ,hill of ,omri4 ,grand ,ruins4 ,tomb of ,john the ,baptist4 ,temple of ,augustus4 ,prediction fulfilled4 ,departure for ,csarea4 ,night on the ,plain of ,sharon4 ,the ,sick brought out4 ,plain of ,sharon4 ,the ,lost ,lake4 ,csarea uninhabited4 ,dangers4 ,history4 ,imperial ,city under ,herod the ,great4 ,grand ,ruins4 ,st4 ,paul a ,prisoner4 ,death of ,herod ,agrippa4 ,athlit4 ,mount ,carmel4 ,scene of the ,sacrifice4 ,great ,event4 ,abode of ,elisha4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,plains of ,palestine4 ,no ,farm-houses4 ,great ,plain of ,esdraelon4 ,its ,fertility4 ,topography4 ,river ,kishon4 ,world's ,battle-field4 ,waters of ,megiddo4 ,deborah and her ,victory4 ,jeneen4 ,bethshean4 ,encampment4 ,modern ,sheikhs and ancient ,patriarchs4 ,city of ,ruins4 ,jabesh ,gilead4 ,pella4 ,gideon's ,fountain4 ,mount ,gilboa4 ,battles4 ,jezreel4 ,napoleon and the ,turks4 ,shunem4 ,nain4 ,endor4 ,witch's ,cave4 ,saul and ,samuel4 ,witches4 ,mount ,tabor4 ,its ,form4 ,woods4 ,view4 ,misnomer4 ,transfiguration4 ,it occurred at ,night4 ,argument4 ,benighted ,party4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,jerusalem and ,capernaum the great ,centres of our ,lord's ,ministry4 ,christ a limited ,traveler4 ,judea and ,galilee contrasted4 ,provinces of ,galilee4 ,the ,herods4 ,meaning of ,galilee4 ,sea of ,galilee4 ,its ,characteristics4 ,hallowed ,associations4 ,imperial ,city of ,tiberias4 ,founded by ,herod ,antipas4 ,his ,crimes4 ,john the ,baptist4 ,it became a ,jewish ,city and the ,metropolis of the ,race4 ,home of eminent ,scholars4 ,now an ,arab ,town4 ,citizens4 ,miraculous ,draught of ,fishes4 ,jesus never visited it4 ,warm ,baths of ,tiberias4 ,site of ,tarichea4 ,naval ,engagement4 ,bridge of ,semakh4 ,river ,jarmuk4 ,city of ,gadara4 ,ruins4 ,tombs4 ,not the ,scene of the ,destruction of the ,swine4 ,argument4 ,ruins of ,gamala4 ,near here was the ,scene of the ,miracle4 ,mouth of the ,jordan4 ,bethsaida ,julias4 ,feeding of the ,five ,thousand4 ,our ,lord ,walking on the ,sea4 ,home of ,mary ,magdalene4 ,rich ,plain of ,gennesaret4 ,parables4 ,site of ,capernaum4 ,fountain of the ,fig4 ,thrilling ,history of the ,city as connected with ,christ4 ,the ,woe4 ,desolation4 ,bethsaida4 ,birthplace of ,peter1 ,james1 and ,john4 ,not ,bethsaida ,julias4 ,influence of natural ,scenery upon the ,formation of ,character4 ,chorazin4 ,sudden ,gale upon the ,sea4 ,extensive ,remains of the ,city4 ,without an ,inhabitant4 ,upper ,jordan4 ,waters of ,merom4 ,tell el-,kdy4 ,city of ,dan4 ,its ,fountain4 ,csarea ,philippi4 ,town of ,hasbeiya4 ,fountain4 ,highest perennial ,source of the ,jordan4 ,mount ,hermon4 ,vast and grand ,prospect from its lofty ,summit4 ,scriptural ,allusions4 8,valley of the ,pigeons40 ,sublime ,ravine4 ,mount of ,beatitudes4 ,battle of ,hattin4 ,defeat of the ,crusaders4 ,triumph of ,saladin4 ,route to ,nazareth4 ,its authentic ,history is not older than the ,christian ,era4 ,its ,valley and ,mountains4 ,population4 ,schools4 ,legendary ,sites4 ,scene of the ,annunciation4 ,house and ,shop of ,joseph4 ,pictures4 ,fountain4 ,beautiful ,girls of ,nazareth4 ,mount of ,precipitation4 ,true ,mount4 ,view4 ,scene of our ,lord's ,childhood and ,manhood4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,phnicia4 ,its ,extent and ,fertility4 ,origin of the ,phnicians4 ,their ,commerce4 ,their ,learning4 ,departure from ,nazareth4 ,cana of ,galilee4 ,first ,christian ,wedding4 ,beautiful ,vale of ,abiln4 ,plain of ,accho4 ,city of ',akka4 ,names4 ,metropolis of the ,crusaders4 ,their ,destruction4 ,gibbon4 ,the ,moslem ,nero4 ,napoleon's ,defeat4 ,road to ,tyre4 ,summer ,palace4 ,excavations4 ,wild and dangerous ,pass4 ,antiquity of ,tyre4 ,three ,tyres4 ,stupendous ,water-works4 ,continental ,tyre4 ,sins and ,judgments4 ,glory departed4 ,how ,prophecy was fulfilled4 ,insular ,tyre4 ,tyre of the ,crusaders4 ,cathedral4 ,tomb of ,hiram4 ,wonderful ,temple4 ,sarepta4 ,zidon4 ,gardens4 ,ancient ,glory4 ,wars4 ,harbor4 ,citadel4 ,tombs4 ,interesting ,discoveries4 ,ornaments4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,mountains of ,lebanon4 ,grand ,scenery4 ,sublime ,view4 ,mountain ,traveling4 ,scriptural ,allusions4 ,cedars of ,lebanon4 ,their ,number1 ,appearance1 and symbolic ,character4 ,population of the ,mountains4 ,districts and ,peculiarities of the ,druzes and ,maronites4 ,new ,road4 ,crossing the ,mountains4 ,plain of the ,buk'a4 ,leontes4 ,a swollen ,river4 ,ancient ,cities4 ,imposing ,cavalcade4 ,wives of the ,pasha of ,damascus4 ,first ,view of ,damascus4 ,splendor and ,enjoyments of the ,interior of the ,city4 ,great ,plain of ,damascus4 ,abana and ,pharpar4 ,scene of ,st4 ,paul's ,conversion4 ,city without ,ruins4 ,antiquity and thrilling ,history of ,damascus4 ,house of ,judas4 ,home of ,ananias4 8,street called ,straight40 ,naaman's ,palace4 ,tombs of the ,great4 ,location of ,damascus4 ,walls and ,gates4 ,old ,castle4 ,great ,mosque4 ,gardens of ,damascus4 ,commerce of the ,city4 ,curiosities in the ,bazars4 ,population4 ,christian ,citizens4 ,origin of the ,massacre of #ahfj4 ,its ,progress4 ,terrible ,scenes4 ,american ,vice-,consul4 ,ruins4 ,sad ,results4 ,defense of the ,christians by ,abd-el-,kader4 ,visit to the ,chieftain of ,algiers4 ,our ,reception4 ,testimonials4 ,his ,appearance4 ,conclusion4 ,political ,history of ,palestine4 ,its ,condition under the ,turks4 ,it is now in a ,transition ,state4 ,possessions of ,european ,nations4 ,future of the ,holy ,land4 ,christian ,missions4 ,decline of ,mohammedanism4 ,religious ,liberty4 ,future ,glory4 ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations4 ,jerusalem ,maps of ,southern and ,northern ,palestine ,immense ,stones of ,solomon's ,age ,golden ,gate,interior ,view ,mount ,zion and ,tower of ,hippicus ,jews' ,place of ,wailing ,solomon's ,bridge ,mount ,moriah1 with a ,view of the ,mosque of ,omar ,solomon's subterranean ,passage-way ,tombs of the ,judges ,tombs of the ,kings ,absalom's ,pillar restored ,tombs in the ,valley of ,jehoshaphat ,fountain of the ,virgin ,pool of ,siloam ,lower ,pool of ,gihon ,pool of ,hezekiah ,bethany ,gethsemane and the ,mount of ,olives ,via ,dolorosa and the ,arch of the ,ecce ,homo ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre,front ,view ,view of the ,holy ,sepulchre ,ground ,plan of the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre ,view of ,modern ,jerusalem1 from the ,mount of ,olives ,raven ,plain of ,jericho and ,view of the ,dead ,sea1 from the ,north ,shooting the ,rapids ,dead ,sea ,masada ,convent of ,mr ,sba ,view of ,bethlehem ,cave of the ,nativity ,interior of the ,church of the ,nativity ,tomb of ,herod the ,great,herodium ,hebron ,urts ,solomon's ,pools ,gaza ,ruins of ,askelon ,ashdod ,joppa from the ,north ,ramleh1 or the 8,look-out0 ,church of ,st4 ,george ,gibeon ,nablous ,jacob's ,well ,samria ,ancient ,csarea ,women grinding at a ,mill ,arab ,encampment ,jezreel ,nain ,mount ,tabor ,tiberias and the ,sea of ,galilee ,ruins and ,tombs of ,gadara ,plain of ,gennesaret and ,home of ,mary ,magdalene ,upper ,jordan 8,valley of the ,pigeons0 ,nazareth ,acre from the ,east ,ladder of ,tyre ,tyre ,has el-',an ,tomb of ,hiram ,sidon ,cedars of ,lebanon ,,prologue4 ,the ,land and the ,book are inseparable4 ,like prophecy and history they complement each other4 ,they are the reciprocal witnesses of the same great truth4 ,they stand or fall together4 ,our chief interest in ,palestine is the confirmation of scriptural allusions to its topography1 the scene of personal and national history4 ,the sacred writers make incidental references to towns and cities1 to valleys and mountains1 to lakes and rivers1 to battlefields and other scenes of important events1 around which will forever cluster the most hallowed associations of our religious faith4 ,they make these allusions with an accuracy of statement which to-day is in proof of the sincerity of their purpose and the truthfulness of their record4 ,there is a sublime naturalness in their narration which is monumental evidence of the facts which they have transmitted to mankind4 ,these frequent off-hand references clearly indicate that the sacred writers resided in ,bible ,lands1 that they witnessed the events they recorded1 and were familiar with the times1 places1 and persons of which they wrote4 ,unbelievers realize the force of this argument and have sought1 but in vain1 to charge the inspired penmen with inaccuracy1 and thus throw distrust upon their history2 but they have found to their consternation1 both by personal observation and the testimony of travelers1 that the ,bible is the most reliable handbook of ,palestine extant4 ,during one of my visits to ,jerusalem ,i chanced to meet a venerable ,english barrister who had made a pilgrimage to the ,holy ,land to write a book against the ,bible founded on the supposed discrepancies between the ,land and the ,book2 and ,i subsequently met him at ,beyroot1 after his fruitless journey from 8,dan to ,beersheba40 ,while at ,mosul1 opposite ancient ,nineveh1 ,i met ,george ,smith1 sent forth by a ,london journalist to explore the ,assyrian ruins1 and who1 as archologist and philologist1 ranks with ,layard and ,rassam4 ,he went out an unbeliever1 but such is the agreement between the record of the ruins and the record of the ,book1 that ,mr4 ,smith returned to ,london a believer1 and lectured before the ,society of ,biblical ,archology on the marvelous synchronisms of the ,assyrian tablets and the sacred historians4 ,from ,dan to ,beersheba was written to verify these references4 ,it has the advantage of having been written on the scene of the recorded event1 in notes taken for future elaboration of all that had transpired thereon1 whether in sacred or profane history4 ,it was my custom1 from which ,i seldom deviated1 to read on the spot every reference in the ,bible to each locality ,i visited1 and to record my observations and impressions while my mind was aglow with the recollections of the hallowed associations of the place and impressed with the extraordinary agreement between the inspired narration and the present aspect of the scene where the grand events had transpired2 so that the traveler of to-day1 with this book in hand1 will have his memory refreshed and his mind inspired by a picture of what once occurred on the accredited historic site4 ,through all the turbulent centuries since ,christ ascended1 ,palestine has been a 8changeless land10 whose social customs1 mechanic arts1 commercial and manufactural methods have suffered little from contact with ,western civilization1 and it should be the ambition of ,christendom to preserve it intact to the last generation of mankind4 ,providence calls us to preserve this monumental land4 ,the changeful influence of the mighty ,west is seen to-day on lower ,egypt1 on ,asia ,minor1 on ,grecia and ,rome in ,europe1 but ,palestine abides the same forever2 as ,christ and his apostles left it we now see it1 and so should it be seen by all future ages4 ,impelled by sectarian zeal or for political purposes1 the nations of ,europe have sought supremacy there1 and the ,promised ,land is the larger factor in the ,eastern ,question1 but neither ,france1 nor ,russia1 nor ,england should take possession1 but rather a syndicate1 representing all nations and all creeds1 should hold it in fee simple by purchase from the ,sultan subject to such rights of property as may vest in the present inhabitants4 ,it is a land of buried cities which await the coming of the spade4 ,names are to be verified1 places are to be identified1 dates are to be reconciled4 ,the whole land should be open to research4 ,modern ,jerusalem should be removed4 ,the ,jerusalem of ,solomon and of ,christ is from two to three hundred feet buried beneath the present city4 ,that religious metropolis of the world has suffered twenty-seven sieges1 and eleven cities have been built upon the ancient site4 ,each conqueror leveled the dbris and thereon reared his new capital4 ,vital questions await the spade of the explorer4 ,much has been accomplished within the last twenty years1 and more awaits the efforts of the future4 ,the whole of western ,palestine has been surveyed1 and the biblical gains have been immense4 ,not less than six hundred and twenty-two names west of the ,jordan are given by the sacred writers4 ,of these we had knowledge of two hundred and sixty-two1 and by the survey one hundred and seventy-two were discovered and added to our list1 leaving one hundred and eighty-eight to be uncovered by the archologist4 ,some of these are insignificant1 but others are of intense interest1 such as ,mamre1 ,gethsemane1 and ,arimathea1 around which cluster most hallowed memories4 ,the surveyors have determined the boundaries of the tribes1 the march of armies1 the routes of pilgrims1 merchants1 and kings4 ,beautiful ,tirzah1 royal residence of ,jeroboam1 has been identified1 with its enchanting landscape8,beautiful as ,tirzah1 comely as ,jerusalem0and in the rocks are to be seen the tombs of the kings of ,israel4 ,the famous battlefield of ,sisera and ,deborah has been traced1 the relative positions of the contending hosts by the waters of ,megiddo1 the path of the flight of ,sisera1 when 8the river ,kishon swept them away1 that river of battles1 the river ,kishon10 the site of the black tent of ,heber the ,kenite1 where the generous ,jael gave the royal fugitive ,leban a delicious preparation of curdled milk1 and then1 when he infringed upon oriental etiquette and insulted her womanhood by forcing himself into the women's apartments1 the avengeful ,jael drove the iron tent-peg into the offender's brain4 ,the 8,brook ,cherith10 from which ,elijah drank1 and the 8,valley of ,achor10 where ,achan was stoned1 have been identified1 and the site of ,bethabara1 dear to all ,christians1 has been recovered4 ,the native name ,abrah1 a passage or ferry1 now marks one of the fords of the ,jordan1 just above where the ,jald debouches into the sacred river1 and means the same as ,bethabaraa 8ferry40 ,this disarms the critics of the fourth gospel1 inasmuch as ,cana of ,galilee is but twenty-two miles from ,abrah1 a day's journey1 while from the traditional site of our ,lord's baptism the distance is eighty miles4 ,forty fords of the ,jordan have been identified2 hundreds of ancient names have been recovered2 the site of ,gilgal has been determined2 the tombs of ,joshua and of ,nun1 and the tombs of ,eleazar and ,phinehas1 successors of ,aaron in the priesthood1 have been rescued from oblivion1 and are to be seen in ,mount ,ephraim1 south of ,shechem1 all of which appear of great antiquity4 ,in the first chapter of this book ,i gave what seemed to me at the time the wonderful correspondence between the prophetical descriptions of the twelve tribeships and the present aspects and conditions of those twelve sections1 as to climate1 physical features1 soil1 cultivation1 and natural products1 and the recent surveys more than confirm this correspondence4 ,it is now apparent that the boundaries of the tribal possessions were rivers1 ravines1 ridges1 and the watershed lines of the country1 and1 above all1 the fertility of the soil was in accordance with the density of population1 and this density is now indicated by the larger number of ancient ruins4 ,while excavations have been made with more or less success in all the notable sections of the land1 those of chief interest to the biblical scholar are in and about the holy city4 ,there shafts have been sunk through the dbris one hundred and twenty-five feet below the present surface of the ground4 ,in those researches the foundation stones of the walls of the temple area were laid bare2 ,phnician jars were found1 on which are ,phnician characters2 a subterranean passage was uncovered1 a secret passage for troops from the citadel to the temple in times of danger2 old aqueducts were brought to light2 the ancient wall on ,mount ,ophel was traced hundreds of feet2 the first wall on ,mount ,zion1 and the probable site of the second wall1 on which so much depends touching both the ,temple and the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulcher1 were discovered4 ,the explorer has confirmed the historical statement of the glories of the temple of ,god1 one thousand feet long and two hundred feet high1 the grandest structure ever dedicated to divinity4 ,in their explorations they found fragments of earthenware at a depth of ninety feet1 belonging to the city of the ,jebusites1 ,b4,c4 #aejj2 they uncovered pavements1 one of mezzah stone1 and between the pavements rubbish twenty feet deep1 and under a second pavement was found ,haggai's seal1 bearing the ,hebrew inscription1 8,haggai1 son of ,shebaniah10 ,b4,c4 #ejj4 ,and in those depths of the ages were found lamps1 dishes1 stone weights1 and a ,phnician jar1 standing upright where the workmen of ,king ,hiram of ,tyre left it #c1jjj years ago1 and beautiful vases of black ware covered with crimson glaze4 ,they were rewarded for their patient toil by uncovering immense columns1 broken arches1 vast vaults1 the bases of great towers1 and large water tanks1 four hundred feet long1 subterranean passageways1 with their steps in situ1 and strong triple gates2 they exhumed the lower courses of ,solomon's city wall1 seven hundred feet long and whereon are painted ,phnician characters in red paint1 still bright1 and they brought to light a stone cross inscribed1 8,the light of ,christ shines forth for all40 ,for these magnificent results we are indebted to two ,americans1 ,robinson and ,barclay1 and to two ,englishmen1 ,warren and ,conder4 ,in my visits to the holy city ,i experienced a keen regret that ,i was not treading the streets trodden by ,christ and his apostles4 ,they are hidden beneath the accumulated rubbish of ages4 ,as ,i walked the crooked1 neglected lanes of modern ,jerusalem ,i felt ,i was treading upon the buried temples and palaces and avenues of ,solomon's glorious reign which await a resurrection by the spade1 when the crescent goes down and the cross goes up4 ,the regret ,i had experienced was relieved when ,i stood upon ,mount ,moriah1 whose summit remains in its form and aspect as when ,jesus 8walked in ,solomon's ,porch20 or when ,i crossed the little stone bridge which spans the ,kedron1 so often pressed by his weary feet2 or when ,i sat on the slopes of ,olivet and 8beheld the city0 which in its former majesty and glory rose before his divine vision4 ,until the uncivilized and uncivilizing ,turk is driven from the holy city1 and until ,christendom owns that religious metropolis of the world1 and until the archologist can pursue his noble work unmolested1 two questions will remain in disputethe site of ,calvary and the site of the tomb of ,joseph of ,arimathea4 ,greeks and ,latins claim that both are within the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulcher1 a claim which rests upon the traditions of centuries1 but which can never be substantiated beyond a doubt until the second wall of the ,jerusalem of ,christ can be definitely traced4 ,both ,english and ,american explorers of to-day place ,calvary on the ridge over the ,grotto of ,jeremiah1 north of the city and near the ,damascus ,gate4 ,from immemorial time this has been called the 8,hill of ,execution20 it resembles the human skull1 and the ,jews esteem it accursed1 and exclaim as they pass it1 8,cursed be he who destroyed our nation by aspiring to be king thereof40 ,and to the west of the hill1 two hundred yards north of the ,damascus ,gate1 on one side is a lane leading to ,st4 ,stephen's ,church1 and opposite is an arched gateway of stone1 with wooden door1 which opens into a garden1 and in the garden is the tomb4 ,the tomb has never been finished1 yet it has been occupied2 its construction is ,herodian1 about the time of ,christ2 it has been occupied for only one burial2 it is a ,jewish tomb and designed for one of wealth and influence2 it has been used for ,christian worship1 and upon its walls can now be traced faintly a frescoed cross with the sacred monograms4 ,interesting and remarkable as are the recoveries thus far made1 a larger future awaits the archologist4 ,there are venerable traditions which point to hidden vaults and subterranean passageways beneath ancient ,jerusalem wherein were secreted during the last and fatal siege of the city the ,ark of the ,covenant1 the autograph copy of the ,pentateuch1 and the sacred vessels of the temple which were brought back from ,babylon1 and these traditions have been confirmed by the excavations of the present day4 ,and there is good reason to believe that ,st4 ,matthew's gospel in ,hebrew1 together with some of the apostolic letters1 were deposited in a place of security when the storm of persecution burst upon the ,church in ,jerusalem4 ,a few inscriptions have been found and translated1 illustrative of the ,scripture record4 ,a tablet has been recovered on which is an inscription in ,greekthe characters are monumental in sizewhich is a notice to strangers not to pass through the sacred inclosure of the temple3 8,no stranger is to enter within the balustrade round the temple inclosure2 whoever is caught will be responsible to himself for his death1 which will ensue40 ,this recalls the episode recorded in ,acts xxi1 #bf1 when ,st4 ,paul1 after his purification1 was accused of introducing into the temple the ,gentile ,trophimus of ,ephesus1 which caused a riot1 that was quelled by the intervention of the ,tribune1 who rescued ,paul4 ,in the ,pool of ,siloam there was discovered an inscription1 the letters of which closely resemble those on the ,moabite stone4 ,on this tablet1 twenty-seven inches square1 is recorded in six lines a commemoration of the completion of the tunnel1 which is a third of a mile long and connects the ,virgin's ,fount with the ,pool of ,siloam1 and dates back to the reign of ,solomon4 ,and at ,bethphage a stone was uncovered on which are frescoes representing the raising of ,lazarus and the triumphal procession in honor of our ,lord1 and strong arguments are adduced that on this stone the ,saviour rested when he sent his disciples to the city4 ,these are but intimations of the future1 when biblical research can be carried forward unhindered by the greed of the ,turk or the fanaticism of the ,jew4 ,while we wait patiently for the incoming of that better day1 ,jerusalem is attracting the attention of all peoples4 ,palestine is still the 8high bridge0 of the nations1 over which the commerce of the world must pass from west to east4 ,the old saying of ,scripture is still true3 8,i have set ,jerusalem in the midst of the nations10 and for some wise purpose it is destined to be the religious metropolis of the world4 ,sixty thousand people dwell within her walls2 eight thousand ,turks hold the city and rule it with an iron hand4 ,they have neither patriotism nor honor2 they are robbers in the disguise of government officials4 ,forty-two thousand ,jews have come from ,spain1 ,poland1 and the ends of the earth1 who are paupers1 and who divide their time between wailing over their departed glory and living on the charity of others4 ,ten thousand ,christians are denizens of the once proud city1 who stand guard over the 8sacred places0 and are the thrift and hope of the place4 ,four thousand orthodox ,greeks and four thousand orthodox ,latins watch each other with a jealous eye1 and are ready for the fray whenever the 8,silver ,star of ,bethlehem is stolen40 ,the ,arminian ,christians are merchant princes2 the ,syrians live on the venerable past2 the ,copts and ,abyssinians are few and poor2 and the four hundred ,protestants represent the brain1 the heart1 the enterprise1 the piety1 and the charity of modern ,jerusalem4 ,they are ,american and ,scotch ,presbyterians1 ,german ,lutherans1 and ,anglican ,episcopalians4 ,they have founded hospitals1 organized schools1 built churches1 created a healthful literature1 and are the energy of public opinion4 ,while many are waiting for the restoration of the ,jews these noble ,protestant ,christians are preparing the way for the coming of the ,lord1 when ,jerusalem shall be rebuilt and made holy and once again be the joy of the whole earth4 ,illustration3 signature of ,john ,p4 ,newman4 ,illustration3 ,,northern ,,palestine4 ,illustration3 ,,southern ,,palestine4 ,,from ,,dan ,,to ,,beersheba4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,the two ,boundaries4 ,the parallel ,mountains4 ,the great ,valley4 ,inspired ,eulogies4 ,sterile ,soil4 ,gibbon's ,comparison4 ,natural and miraculous ,causes of present ,sterility4 ,testimonies of pagan ,authors on the ancient ,productions of ,palestine4 ,land coveted by the great ,nations of ,antiquity4 ,a ,land of ,ruins4 ,present ,fertility and ,fruits4 ,richness of the ,north4 ,volney on the ,variety of the ,climate of ,palestine4 ,beauties of ,spring in the ,promised ,land4 ,flowers4 ,magnificent ,scenery4 ,standard of ,landscape ,beauty4 ,palestine is a ,world in ,miniature4 ,illustrations4 ,prophetical ,descriptions of the twelve ,tribeships4 ,wonderful ,correspondence4 ,,the boundaries of ,palestine are defined by the sacred writers according to the ,land of ,possession and the ,land of ,promise4 ,the extreme length of the former is #ahj miles from north to south1 the average breadth #ej miles from east to west1 and it has a superficial area of #ad1jjj square miles4 ,the latter is #cfj miles long1 #ajj broad1 and contains #b1hjj square miles1 being three and a half times larger than ,new ,jersey1 twice as large as ,maryland1 of equal extent with ,south ,carolina1 and of exact proportion to ,new ,hampshire1 ,massachusetts1 and ,vermont combined4 ,the limits of the lesser area are from 8,dan to ,beersheba0 north and south1 and from the ,jordan to the ,mediterranean east and west4 ,the boundaries of the greater area are from the 8,waters of ,strife1 in ,kadesh10 on the south1 to the 8entrance of ,hamath0 on the north1 and from the eastern shore of the ,mediterranean to the western border of the ,arabian ,desert4#a ,moses describes the ,land of ,promise2#b ,samuel1 the ,land of ,possession2#c the former1 what was included in the original grant2 the latter1 what was actually possessed by the 8chosen people40 ,and although the twelve tribeships remained substantially the same as surveyed by ,joshua1 yet both ,david and ,solomon held dominion from the ,nile to the ,euphrates1 and in them was fulfilled ,god's promise to ,abraham4#d ,it is the remark of an eminent writer that 8there is no district on the face of the globe containing so many and such sudden transitions as ,palestine1 being at once a land of mountains1 plains1 and valleys40#e ,far to the north1 at the 8entering of ,hamath10 commence two parallel ranges of limestone mountains1 extending southward to the ,desert of ,th and ,arabia ,petra1 which are branches of the ancient ,taurus chain1 and a continuation of that mountain tract stretching from the ,bay of ,issus to the ,desert of ,arabia1 called ,lebanon4 ,the western ridge attains its greatest altitude1 opposite ,ba'albek1 in ,jebel ,mukhmel1 whose summit rises #ac1jjj feet above the level of the sea4 ,continuing southward to the point opposite ,tyre1 the chain is broken by the ,river ,leontes flowing through a sublime gorge into the ,mediterranean4 ,decreasing in height1 but expanding in breadth1 the ridge continues south of the ravine to the hills of ,nazareth and the wooded cone of ,tabor1 where it is broken again by the great plain of ,esdraelon1 through which the ,kishon flows to the sea1 separating the hills of ,galilee from the mountains of ,samaria4 ,coming up from the ,bay of ',akka in a southeasterly direction is ,mount ,carmel1 immediately to the south of which are the hills of ,samaria4 ,rising from the southern border of ,esdraelon1 and stretching southward thirty-three miles1 they terminate in ,ebal and ,gerizim1 where the chain is broken for the third time by the ,plain of ,mukhnah4 ,beyond this vale are the mountains of ,ephraim1 extending to ,bethel1 where the ,heights of ,benjamin begin1 which extend to the valley of the ,kedron4 ,here the ridge takes the name of the 8,hill ,country of ,judea10 running in a wide1 low1 irregular mountain tract to the southern limit of ,palestine4 ,excepting the promontory of ,carmel1 the southern section of the ,lebanon range is farther removed from the sea1 leaving at its base a maritime plain more than #aej miles long1 embracing the beautiful ,sharon on the north1 and the ,land of ,philistia on the south4 ,twenty miles to the east of the ,lebanon1 and at the 8entering of ,hamath10 the anti-,lebanon chain begins1 running parallel to the former in a southwestern direction4 ,though of less general altitude than its companion ridge1 it includes ,mount ,hermon1 #aj1jjj feet high1 and rivaling in the grandeur of its form and the sublimity of its scenery the loftiest peaks of ,syria4 ,thirty-three miles south of ,hermon the eastern range sweeps round the ,sea of ,galilee1 taking the name of the ,mountains of ,gilead along the east bank of the ,jordan1 and the names of ,ammon and ,moab along the shore of the ,dead ,sea1 and finally terminating with the hills of ,arabia ,petra at the head of the ,bay of ,akabah4 ,next to these mountain chains1 the most remarkable feature in the physical geography of ,palestine is the great valley1 which1 commencing amid the ruins of ancient ,antioch1 runs southward between the two parallel ridges of ,lebanon and anti-,lebanon4 ,measuring more than #cjj miles in length1 and being from seven to ten miles broad1 it serves as the bed of the ,orontes1 the ,litny1 and the ,jordan4 ,bearing the name of ,clesyria1 its southern section has an elevation of #bcjj feet above the sea2 but from its westerly branch1 through which the ,leontes flows to the village of ,hasbeiya1 it rapidly descends1 and at its intersection with the ,plain of el-,hleh1 a distance of less than twenty miles1 it is on a level with the sea4 ,at the ,lake of ,tiberias it has a depression of #fec feet1 and reaches its greatest depth in the chasm of the ,dead ,sea1 the surface of whose waters is #acab feet below the level of the ,mediterranean4 ,to the cursory observer there is an air of extravagance in the inspired descriptions of the ,promised ,land4 ,dwelling with delight upon the fruits of the soil1 the pleasures of the climate1 and the grandeur of the scenery1 the poets and historians of the ,bible ascribe to it a marvelous fertility1 and in their glowing encomiums other lands sink into insignificance when compared to the favored inheritance of ,jacob1 and even the rich valley of the ,nile is to be cheerfully exchanged for the rich hills and valleys of ,palestine4#f ,such was to be its richness1 that from the 8cattle on a thousand hills10 and from the thymy shrubs and the numberless bees inhabiting its venerable forests1 it was to be 8a land flowing with milk and honey40#g ,such was to be its fruitfulness1 that the 8threshing was to reach unto the vintage1 and the vintage reach unto the sowing-time40#h ,such was to be its metallic wealth1 that it was to be 8a land whose stones are iron1 and out of whose hills thou mayest dig copper40#i ,unlike ,egypt1 which is dependent upon the ,nile for a supply of water1 it was to be a country superior in its mountain springs and in its 8early and latter rains40#aj ,repeating the eulogistic utterances of ,moses1 and realizing the promises he had made1 five centuries later ,david sings1 8,the pastures are clothed with flocks2 the valleys are covered with corn2 they shout for joy2 they also sing4 ,the ,lord causeth the grass to grow for cattle1 and herb for the service of man1 that he may bring forth food out of the earth1 and wine that maketh glad the heart of man1 and oil to make his face to shine40#aa ,but1 whatever may have been the appearance of ,southern ,palestine in those distant ages1 it appears at present1 especially its mountain regions1 to be little better than a vast limestone quarry1 covered with small gray stones1 offensive to the eye1 painful to the foot of man and beast1 and seemingly incapable of a harvest4 ,an aspect so sterile and forbidding induced the author of 8,the ,decline and ,fall of the ,roman ,empire0 to institute the comparison that 8,palestine is a territory scarcely superior to ,wales either in fertility or extent40#ab ,conceding this apparent barrenness1 the causes of the change which has taken place in the lapse of so many centuries are at once natural and miraculous4 ,the frequent changes of government1 the rapacity of officials1 the insecurity of property1 the religious animosity of rival sects1 the barbarian ignorance of the peasantry as to the enlightened principles of agriculture1 together with a moral degradation universally prevalent1 are adequate causes1 when operating during a long series of years1 to change the face of any country1 and doom it to almost irreclaimable barrenness4 ,it is also true that the destruction of the woods of any section on the earth's surface1 and particularly the trees on the mountain-tops1 which invite and arrest the passing clouds1 tends to the diminution of rain and to the consequent evils of the drought4 ,the condition of ,germany since the disappearance of its great forests1 and of ,greece since the fall of the large plane-trees which once shaded the bare landscape of ,attica1#ac illustrates the fact that where the land is denuded of its herbage and foliage1 which casts a cooling shade upon the ground1 the scorching rays of the sun penetrate more certainly and intensely1 promoting evaporation1 causing the springs and fountains to fail1 and at the same time increasing the absorbent capacity of the soil2#ad but where the valleys are clothed with verdure1 and the mountains with forests1 a larger quantity of moisture is retained in the ground1 a lower temperature exists in the atmosphere1 and the clouds are drawn to the spot in obedience to meteorological laws4#ae ,to ,titus belongs the shame of having stripped the hills about ,jerusalem of their magnificent olive-groves1 and1 from the destruction of the ,holy ,city to the present century1 ,southern ,palestine has been a vast common for the marauding and predatory bands of ,saracens and ,persians1 of ,mamelukes and ,turks1 whose innumerable herds and flocks have wandered at liberty over gardens and fields1 through groves and forests1 consuming and destroying both plants and trees1 and thereby diminishing the usual quantity of rain in the proper seasons4 ,while to every candid mind such are sufficient causes for this apparent sterility1 yet to the ,christian a miraculous interference with the ordinary course of nature for the attainment of a moral end is an additional consideration why ,palestine is not now what it was in the days of ,moses and ,david4 ,assuming to exercise a special care over the land1 ,jehovah represents himself as sending and withholding rain according to the obedience or disobedience of his chosen people3 8,thou hast polluted the land with thy wickedness1 therefore the showers have been withholden1 and there has been no latter rain40#af 8,i have withholden the rain from you when there were yet three months to the harvest2 and ,i caused it to rain upon one city1 and caused it not to rain upon another city40#ag ,hazardous as it would seem1 in human estimation1 to suspend the continuance of rain and national prosperity upon the continued faithfulness of human beings1 yet it most evidently appears that1 so long as the ,jews remained faithful and obedient as a nation1 just so long1 and no longer1 was their land blessed with prosperity2 and1 whenever they became guilty of defection1 the rains of heaven were withheld1 and their land became desolate4 ,the evil1 however1 experienced by the present tiller of the soil is not the want of rain1 but rather its proper distribution4 ,whatever effect the denudation of the country of its foliage may have had to diminish the vernal and summer showers1 it is a remarkable fact that it rains more copiously in ,syria than in the ,united ,states2 but1 commencing in ,november1 the rainy season continues only till ,february1 while during the eight or nine succeeding months there is scarcely a shower falls4 ,such an unequal distribution of rain could not fail to injure the most fertile portions of the globe4#ah ,though unquestionably true that the structure and composition of the soil for miles around ,jerusalem must always have been essentially what it is now1 of a rough limestone nature1 and as such it must have appeared in the palmiest age of the ,jewish commonwealth1 yet in those happier days1 under a mild and an enlightened government1 no part was waste2 the more fertile hills were cultivated in artificial terraces1 others were covered with orchards of fruit-trees1 while the more rocky and barren districts were converted into vineyards4 ,but in the process of time the terraces which supported the soil upon the steep declivities have been destroyed1 and the accumulated earth has been swept away by the rains1 leaving naked hills 8where once grew the corn and crept the vine40 ,those who quote ,gibbon against ,moses and ,david with so much triumph1 should also cite pagan authors of higher antiquity and of equal authority in their favor4 ,in his description of ,jericho1 ,strabo speaks of 8a grove of palms1 and a country of a hundred stadia full of springs and well-peopled40 ,according to ,tacitus1 8the inhabitants of ,palestine are healthy and robust1 the rains moderate1 and the soil fertile40 ,ammianus ,marcellinus is even more explicit than his predecessors3 8,the last of the ,syrias is ,palestine1 a country of considerable extent1 abounding in clean and well-cultivated land1 and containing some fine cities1 none of which yield to the other1 but1 as it were1 being on a parallel1 are rivals40#ai ,regarding it as a valuable accession to their dominions1 ,palestine was a prize for which the ,assyrians and ,egyptians1 the ,greeks and ,romans1 the ,persians and ,saracens1 fought to conquer and retain4 ,to each it was the 8diamond of the desert20 and coveting the fruits of the soil1 and sighing for the delights of the climate1 they each in turn also contended for the advantages its central position afforded as a military station between the east and west1 the north and south4 ,charmed with its gardens1 the fascinating ,cleopatra induced ,antony to take from ,herod the ,great the noble plain of ,jericho and annex it to her dominions1 that she might possess the celebrated balm and the other valuable drugs and fruits it then produced4#bj ,delighted with its fertility1 its opulence1 and populousness1 ,chosroes of ,persia aspired to its permanent conquest2 and1 a quarter of a century later1 the ,saracens feared to have ,omar see ,jerusalem1 lest the richness of the surrounding country and the purity of the air might tempt him never to return to the holy city of ,medina4 ,as significant of its fruitfulness1 both ,vespasian and ,titus caused medals to be struck on which ,palestine is represented by a female under a palm-tree2 and there are medals still extant on which ,herod is represented as holding a bunch of grapes1 and the young ,agrippa as displaying fruit4#ba ,confirming alike the testimony of both sacred and profane writers1 there are still two traces of the ancient productiveness of the soil4 ,on the plains1 in the valleys1 upon the hills1 every where1 from the river to the sea1 from 8,dan to ,beersheba10 are ruinsbroken cisterns1 prostrate walls1 crumbling terraces1 and old foundations1 indicating the greatness of an earlier population1 and the abundant harvests which supported the millions once dwelling within these narrow limits4 ,these silent but unmistakable indications of the populousness of a former age are more significant than the testimony of ,tacitus and ,josephus4 ,though wanting the air of grandeur of the ruins of ,thebes and ,palmyra1 yet there is the vineyard tower1 the peasant's cottage1 the streets1 the walls1 the dwellings of the once large and thriving village2 and on the hillside and in the field is seen the ruined sheepfold1 the wine-press1 the ancient oil and flour mill2 while along all the highways1 and in many a retired valley1 are water-tanks and reservoirs now dry and broken4 ,neither in ,egypt nor in ,greece is the aspect of desolation more complete4 ,in the one and in the other are the remains of mighty cities1 with their stupendous temples and magnificent palaces2 but here1 in close proximity1 as one might expect to find in a country of shepherds and husbandmen1 is the mound of ruins1 the forsaken village1 the desolate city4 ,like the remains of those ancient habitations1 there are still evidences1 in the present capacity and products of the soil1 sustaining the claim that the ,holy ,land was once a land of 8wheat and barley10 of 8wine and oil40 ,as of old1 the ,plain of ,jericho repays the toil of husbandry1 and only requires proper tillage to make it 8even as the garden of the ,lord40 ,for many miles around ,joppa the ,plain of ,sharon is a vast and beautiful garden1 yielding the most delicious oranges1 lemons1 plums1 quinces1 apricots1 and bananas4 ,in the ,vale of ,eshcol and on the ,heights of ,urts are produced the finest grapes in the world2 while around all the larger towns of ,philistia1 and in the environs of ,hebron1 ,bethlehem1 ,jerusalem1 and ,gibeon1 are the largest and richest olive-groves1 fig and almond orchards in the ,east4 ,though forbidding in aspect and apparently hopelessly sterile1 yet1 considering the nature of the soil1 the kind of crops it is best adapted to produce1 and the crude husbandry here practiced1 the flinty region of ,southern ,palestine is equal in productiveness to many of the best portions of ,europe and ,america4 ,all that can be reasonably demanded of a country is to yield in fair proportion1 with ordinary appliances1 the indigenous fruits of the climate4 ,the mountain tract from ,shiloh to ,hebron is the proper region for the olive and the vine1 and one acre of the stony surface of ,olivet1 planted with olive-trees and carefully tended1 would yield more through the exchanges of commerce toward human subsistence than a larger tract of the richest land in ,new ,york planted to corn4 ,while corn is simply an article of food1 the olive berry subserves a variety of purposes4 ,besides being used by the natives for food1 and1 as such1 in large quantities exported to other countries1 it contains a delicious oil1 which1 in domestic life1 is the substitute for butter and lard1 and in manufacture is employed in making soap and candles1 and for lubricating machinery4#bb ,while1 as in the days of the ,psalmist1 the olive and the grape1 together with wheat1 barley1 and corn1 are the staples of life1 yet there are here annually raised in great abundance cauliflowers1 cabbages1 radishes1 lettuce1 beans1 peas1 onions1 garlic1 carrots1 beets1 leeks1 lentiles1 celery1 parsley1 cucumbers1 tomatoes1 potatoes1 pumpkins1 together with the egg-plant and sugar-cane4 ,there are also cultivated1 in all their deliciousness1 figs1 apricots1 peaches1 plums1 oranges1 lemons1 citrons1 limes1 mandrakes1 pomegranates1 apples1 pears1 dates1 bananas1 quinces1 cherries1 watermelons1 muskmelons1 with almonds1 pistachios1 and walnuts4 ,in many northern districts cotton and tobacco are extensively cultivated1 while in all sections herds of cattle and flocks of sheep and goats are raised for food and raiment4 ,possessing a climate marked with the peculiarities of the three zones1 and yielding annually such harvests of grains and fruits for the sustenance of more than a million and a half of people1 the ,promised ,land1 under an enlightened ,christian government1 might be restored to its original fertility and pristine beauty4 ,whatever apology is necessary for the vindication of the sacred writers as to the southern portion of their native land1 none1 however1 is needed to sustain them in their loftiest praises of all their ancient territory north of the ruins of ,bethel4 ,while in the south 8,judah washed his garments in wine and his cloths in the blood of grapes10 in the north the powerful house of ,joseph had the 8precious things of heaven and the precious things of the lasting hills40 ,beyond the tribal possessions of ,benjamin the soil is no less rich than the scenery is grand2 within the inheritance of ,ephraim1 the ,plain of ,mukhnah and the ,vale of ,shechem resemble vast gardens1 while the mountains and valleys of ,samaria1 the plains of ,sharon and ,esdraelon1 and the fields and hills of ,galilee1 stretching from the lakes to the sea1 pronounce their own eulogy4 ,an elegant writer has justly observed that 8,syria unites different climates under the same sky1 and collects within a small compass pleasures and productions which nature has elsewhere dispersed at great distances of time and place4 ,to the advantage which perpetuates enjoyments it adds another1 that of multiplying them by the variety of its productions40#bc ,though lying within the same parallels of latitude with ,washington and ,new ,orleans1 yet1 owing to its peculiar geological structure and configuration1 the climate is essentially different4 ,on the higher slopes of ,lebanon the summer months are cool and pleasant as on our native ,catskills1 but in the deep valley of the ,jordan1 and on the shores of the ,dead ,sea1 the heat is as intense and debilitating as on the plains of ,southern ,india4 ,along the sea-board the same variety prevails4 ,where the high mountains crowd down upon the coast1 reflecting the light and heat of a ,syrian sun1 the region is sultry and unhealthy1 but where the mountains retire and the soil is dry the air is pure and delightful4 ,properly speaking1 there are but two seasons in ,palestine1 appropriately described in that sublime repetition8winter and summer1 cold and heat1 seed-time and harvest20 but on the mountain range the four seasons are distinctly perceptible4 ,though the loftier summits of ,lebanon are covered with snow the year round1 yet frost and ice are only occasionally seen in the vicinity of ,jerusalem4 ,while in summer a gentle breeze from the ,mediterranean plays over the central ridge from morning till night1 at other seasons of the year the winds blow a tornado4 ,sand-storms arise1 blinding to the eyes1 and rendering near objects indistinct2 hail-storms are frequent and violent1 and1 as of old1 the 8south wind0 blows1 lasting for many days at a time1 and frequently assuming all the dreadful characteristics of the sirocco4 ,commencing with the beginning of ,november1 the winter rains continue with short intervals until ,march1 when spring wears her floral mantle1 and1 casting its ample folds over the ,land of ,promise1 hides its otherwise rougher features2 then follows the long rainless summer1 with transparent atmosphere and hazy skies alternating1 and with intense heat1 parched soil1 and streams few and scanty1 which is succeeded by autumn1 with its red and golden vintage1 and atmosphere of unsurpassed balminess4 ,but spring is the most delightful season of the year in the ,holy ,land1 whether to enjoy the pleasures of the climate or behold the magnificence of the scenery4 ,then the skies are bright1 the air balmy1 and the vernal sun lights up the landscape with a thousand forms of beauty4 ,then sparkling fountains are unsealed1 silver brooks go murmuring by1 and wild cascades1 leaping from their rocky heights1 come dashing down the mountain side1 scattering in their descent wreaths of rainbow spray4 ,then the valleys and the hills are clothed with verdure1 the fields are green with grains and grasses1 the fig and palm-tree are in blossom1 the almond1 apricot1 olive1 and pomegranate are ripening1 and the cypress1 tamarisk1 oak1 walnut1 sycamore1 and poplar are decked with the clean fresh foliage of a new year4 ,then herds of camels and buffaloes are browsing on the meadows1 and flocks of sheep and goats go gamboling up the mountain sides4 ,then1 in all the glens1 on all the vast prairie plains1 and over all the highest mountains are flowers bloominganemones1 oleanders1 amaranths1 arbutuses1 poppies1 hollyhocks1 daisies1 hyacinths1 tulips1 pinks1 lilies1 and roses1 growing in unbounded profusion1 delighting the senses1 and transforming the land into a garden of flowers4 ,but whatever is beautiful in the scenery of ,palestine is peculiar to the north4 ,in the south there is a sameness of outline and of color that wearies the eye and makes one sigh for variety2 but north of the mountains of ,ephraim the beholder is charmed with green plains and fertile valleys1 with wooded dells and graceful hills1 with rippling brooks and sylvan lakes1 with leaping cascades and rushing rivers1 with sublime chasms and profound ravines2 and with lofty mountains1 broken into beetling cliffs and craggy peaks1 whose higher summits are capped with perpetual snow1 and down whose furrowed sides rush a thousand torrents4 ,there the most fastidious taste would be delighted with the wild mountain gorge encircling ,tirzah1 and the wilder chasm of el-,hammwith the beautiful glen of el-,haramyeh1 and the more lovely ,vale of ,abilnwith the woodland parks of ,carmel and ,taborwith the crystal lakes of ,merom and ,gennesaretwith the foaming1 rapid waters of the ,jordan1 the ,leontes1 and the ,adoniswith ,mount ,hermon1 with summer at his feet1 spring in his lap1 and winter on his headand with the magnificent scenery of ,kadsha1 where the ,syrian ,alps lift their awful forms #ac1jjj feet high1 covered with snow #ajj feet deepwhere the melting snows feed cascades1 which in their descent are beaten into spray by the rocks1 and which1 reflecting the sunlight1 seem like the infinite fragments of some gorgeous rainbowand where rills from the hills and torrents from the mountains unite to swell the river below1 which1 after winding through the noblest and wildest of nature's chasms1 whose sides are lined with shrubbery1 adorned with hamlets1 and dotted with convents high up in the everlasting rocks1 and whose solemn bells awaken the echoes of ,lebanon1 pours its accumulated waters into the ,western ,sea4 ,if the standard of landscape beauty be the regular alternation of plain and mountain1 as in ,greece and ,italy2 the clean meadows1 the well-made farms and green hills1 as in ,france and ,england2 or the continent-like prairies1 the miniature seas1 and multiform mountains of ,america1 then the ,land of ,promise must yield the palm to those more highly-favored countries4 ,but if the combination of all these characteristics on a smaller scale constitute the beautiful and grand in natural scenery1 ,palestine is not unworthily praised by the sacred writers for the variety and magnificence of its landscape4 ,viewed from such a stand-point1 the ,holy ,land is a world in miniature1 possessing the three great terrene features of the globesea-board1 plain1 and mountain4 ,yielding the fruits of every climate1 and containing a population corresponding in their physique to that of the inhabitants of every zone1 there is displayed in this variety of scenery and climate the wisdom of ,god4 ,selected by ,providence to be the medium of divine truth to men of all lands1 it was necessary that the national home of the ,bible writers should open to their imaginations the most wonderful and varied of the works of the ,creator4 ,naturally inclined to express our adoration of the ,deity in allusions to his wisdom and goodness displayed in nature1 we experience a unison of devotion with those who were the oracles of inspired truth to us in their sublime illustrations1 drawn from the sea and land1 the valleys and hills1 the climate and fruits1 and the beasts and birds of the country that gave them birth4 ,had they dwelt at the poles1 or on the equator1 or in the heart of ,arabia1 or on the banks of the ,nile1 they could not have given the same universality of expression to the message they were sent to announce4 ,it is evidence of the presence of that ,all-wise ,spirit that the prophets and psalmists1 the ,savior and the apostles1 drew their simplest1 noblest figures from nature1 such as can not fail to arrest the attention of the untutored mind in every land1 and inspire intellects of the highest culture with admiration4 ,who of all the great maritime nations of earth can fail to appreciate the ,psalmist's description of his native sea1 as from its shore1 or from some mountain-top1 he beheld its wonders3 8,o ,lord1 how manifold are thy works6 in wisdom hast thou made them all2 the earth is full of thy riches2 so is this great sea1 wherein are things creeping innumerable1 both small and great beasts40#bd ,and who that has ever crossed the ocean1 or witnessed a storm at sea1 does not realize the perfection of his description3 8,they that go down to the sea in ships1 that do business in great waters1 these see the works of the ,lord1 and his wonders in the deep2 for he commandeth and raiseth the stormy wind1 which lifteth up the waves thereof3 they mount up to heaven1 they go down again to the depths2 their soul is melted because of trouble40#be ,the mountaineer feels that the ,psalmist sings of 8,what oft was thought1 but ne'er so well expressed10 when he describes1 8,the high hills are a refuge for the wild goats1 and the rocks for the conies40#bf ,the dweller at the poles is conscious of a fellow-feeling when he reads those sublime words3 8,he giveth snow like wool2 he scattereth the hoarfrost like ashes3 he casteth forth ice like morsels3 who can stand before his cold80#bg ,the nomad of the desert finds his own country portrayed in the graphic allusions to a 8dry and thirsty land where no water is20#bh to the 8shadow of a great rock in a weary land20#bi and feels himself kindred to the patriarchs in his predatory life4#cj ,they that dwell upon the equator comprehend that grand but terrific passage descriptive of the earthquake and volcano1 8,he looketh on the earth1 and it trembleth2 he toucheth the hills1 and they smoke40#ca ,and to the denizens of all lands are familiar those impressive references to the sun1 moon1 and stars2 to the 8thunder of his power20 to the 8lightnings that lighten the world20 to the storm of hail and rain2 to the shepherd on the mountain1 to the husbandman in the field1 and to the merchant in the marts of commerce4 ,but the correspondence between the prophetic descriptions of the several tribeships1 as given by ,jacob and ,moses1 and the land as it now appears1 is even more exact2 and in recalling the former and in surveying the latter1 one knows not which to admire most1 the adaptation of the soil for various products1 or the unanswerable argument afforded for the inspiration of those who wrote4 ,in the final and permanent division of the territory the portion fell to each tribe by lot1 just as ,jacob had foretold in the last moments of his life1 #bej years before1 and just as ,moses had predicted immediately prior to his demise4 ,though it was not possible for the former1 with his extraordinary powers of observation and penetration1 to have passed and repassed through the whole length of the land without observing the peculiarities of each section1 and though equally impossible for the latter1 with his capacious mind1 and with the means of information at his command1 to have remained ignorant of the chorography of the several parts1 yet the knowledge of those eminent men had no influence upon the ultimate settlement of the tribes4 ,human foresight is never equal to the uncertainties of the lot2 only superhuman knowledge can foretell to whom the lot will fall4 ,in their prophetic visions they saw the ,land of ,promise mapped out into tribal possessions1 and on each they read the name of the future inheritor4 ,years after1 when the lots were drawn by ,joshua and ,eleazer at ,shiloh1 each tribe received its portion exactly on the spot which had been foretold4 ,pre-eminently pastoral1 ,reuben1 ,gad1 and the half tribe of ,manasseh received the vast pasture-fields of ,ammon1 ,gilead1 and ,bashan1 extending from the ,river ,arnon on the south to the base of ,hermon on the north1 and from the ,jordan on the west to the desert of ,arabia and the ,haurn on the east4 ,called by the ,arabs ,belka1 they can pronounce no higher praise upon its rich plains and green sloping hills than in their pastoral proverb to declare1 8,thou canst not find a country like the ,belka40 ,deprived of the 8excellency of dignity0the priesthood2 of the 8excellency of power0the kingdom2 and of the 8double portion0 of wealth and temporal blessings which1 by the rights of primogeniture1 belonged to the first-born son of ,jacob1 here1 between the ,arnon and the ,jabbok1 ,reuben was 8unstable as water0 in the rapid diminution of his numbers1 and in being the first of the tribes to be carried into captivity by ,tiglath ,pileser of ,assyria2#cb and never producing a great man to honor his name1 and never rising to dignity and influence in the councils of the nation1 here also a father's curse was fulfilled1 8,thou shalt not excel40#cc ,his tribeship extending from the ,jabbok to the ,sea of ,galilee1 and from the ,jordan to the desert1 and harassed by the ,arabian plunderers on his eastern border1 but in turn driving them from his dominion1 it was said of ,gad1 8,a troop shall overcome him1 and he shall overcome at last40#cd ,occupying the ,hills of ,bashan1 together with the rich and picturesque regions along the eastern shore of ,gennesaret as far north as ,mount ,hermon1 and rising to distinction in rank and numbers1 and in giving to the nation three eminent characters8the pious ,gideon1 the opulent ,jair1 and the valiant ,jephtha0#cethe prophetical benediction on ,manasseh was here accomplished3 8,he also shall become a people1 and he also shall be great40#cf ,omitted by ,moses from the list of the blessed1 and sentenced by his father to be 8divided in ,jacob and scattered in ,israel10 ,simeon occupied with ,judah the extreme south2 and in one generation after the exodus from ,egypt to ,canaan his posterity had decreased more than #cg1jjj souls4#cg ,destined to rule rather than to serve1 to be cunning rather than brave1 8,dan shall judge his people2 and he shall be a serpent by the way1 an adder in the path1 that biteth the horse-heels1 so that his rider shall fall backward40#ch ,unable to subdue the ,philistines1 whose lands were allotted to them from the ,hills of ,judah to the ,mediterranean1 the ,danites were compelled to conquer new territory for their rapidly increasing numbers4 ,described by ,moses to be 8a lion's whelp10 and foretold by him that 8,dan shall leap from ,bashan10 a colony of the tribe passed northward to the sources of the ,jordan1 and1 taking the city of ,laish by surprise1 #fjj armed men1 like a young lion pouncing upon its prey1 8leaped from ,bashan10 captured and burnt the town1 and upon its ruins founded another city1 calling it 8after the name of ,dan1 their father40 ,thus1 while at a later period the southern branch of the tribe gave to the nation ,samson1 who 8judged ,israel twenty years10 the new colony stamped its tribal name upon the utmost limit of ,palestine1 which has since passed into the proverbial saying1 8,from ,dan to ,beersheba40#ci ,foretold that 8his eyes shall be red with wine1 and his teeth white with milk10 to ,judah fell that mountain region from ,jerusalem southward to ,arabia1 and from the ,dead ,sea to the hills which overhang the ,mediterranean1 and which for vineyards and pasturage is unsurpassed in all the ,holy ,land4 ,here1 in the days of his prosperity1 he was seen 8binding his foal unto the vine1 and his ass's colt unto the choice vine2 and here he washed his garments in wine1 and his cloths in the blood of grapes40 ,selected to be the tribe whence the ,messiah should come1 8,judah1 thou art he whom thy brethren shall praise40 ,ordained to retain his tribeship1 his ensigns1 his government 8until ,shiloh come10 his home was amid the fastnesses of the ,judean ,hills1 from which1 till the appointed time1 when ,god abandoned him to his enemies1 he could not be dislodged4 ,ascending to his mountain lair from the swellings of ,jordan1 8,judah is a lion's whelp3 from the prey1 my son1 thou art gone up20 and after the ,ten ,tribes had been scattered1 and the identity of ,benjamin lost1 and when the foe approached1 the 8,lion of the tribe of ,judah10 confident of his security1 8stooped down1 he couched as a lion1 and as an old lion2 who shall rouse him up80#dj ,by nature a martial people1 cruel in war1 and ambitious to be free1 the children of ,benjamin received that wild highland tract from the ,jordan to ,bethhoron1 and from ,jerusalem to ,bethel4 ,here1 on his impregnable heights1 with a courage1 an independence1 a ferocity1 at one time successfully resisting the combined attack of all the tribes1 8,benjamin shall raven as a wolf2 in the morning he shall devour the prey1 and at night he shall divide the spoil40#da ,the ,vale of ,hinnom being his southern frontier1 ,jerusalem originally belonged to ,benjamin1 but1 failing to dispossess the ,jebusites1 it was reserved for ,david1 with the warriors of ,judah1 to capture the strong-hold of ,jebus1 and elevate it to the dignity of an imperial city4#db ,it was to this proximity to the ,holy ,city that ,moses refers in those remarkable words1 8,the beloved of the ,lord shall dwell in safety by him40 ,the ,temple being ,jehovah's dwelling-place1 8,the ,lord shall cover or protect ,benjamin all the day long20 and as ,zion represents the throne and ,moses the church,god's two shoulders8he shall dwell between his shoulders40#dc ,there is an air of freedom and an aspect of defiance about the bold1 rugged summits of ,benjamin2 and moulded among the crags of ,gibeon and ,gibeah1 of ,ramah and ,ophrah1 of ,geba and ,michmash1 and the mind partaking of the features of the place of birth1 it is no marvel that this tribe gave to the nation ,ehud1 the judge2#dd ,saul1 the king2#de ,jonathan1 the warrior2#df the inflexible ,mordecai1#dg the resolute ,esther1#dh and the heroic ,paul4#di ,rewarded for the most exalted virtues1 and possessing the privileges of the birthright which had been transferred from ,reuben1 the powerful house of ,joseph1 represented by the tribe of ,ephraim and the half tribe of ,manasseh1 received the heart of ,palestinethe garden of the ,holy ,land4 ,stretching its verdant lines from the waters of the ,jordan along the northern boundary of ,benjamin to the ,mediterranean1 and with the river on the east and the sea on the west1 it extended northward to the ,plain of ,esdraelon1 including the ,hills of ,samaria4 ,eminently deserving the benedictions of two worlds1 ,joseph was blessed with unbounded goodness by his dying father and by the ,prophet of ,abarim4 ,promised a numerous posterity1 in two and a half centuries from the time ,jacob placed his hands upon the heads of ,ephraim and ,manasseh1 his descendants had increased to nearly half a million of souls4#ej 8,joseph is a fruitful bougheven a fruitful bough by a well1 whose branches run over the wall20#ea and in anticipation of the fact1 ,moses breaks forth in that sublime strain1 8,they are the ten thousands of ,ephraim1 and they are the thousands of ,manasseh40#eb ,occupying a section of land on both sides of the ,jordan1 the present richness of which is beyond dispute1 ,joseph had 8the precious things of heaven from above0gentle showers1 a serene sky1 a sublime atmosphere2 8the blessings of the deep that lieth under0the springs and wells1#ec 8the precious fruits brought forth by the sun10 which come to perfection once a year2 8the precious things put forth by the moon10 such as mature in a month2 8the chief things of the ancient mountains0the forests that cover their summits2 8the precious things of the lasting hills0the metals and minerals which abound within them2 8and his glory is like the firstling of his bullocks1 and his horns are like the horns of unicorns0the inspired symbols of his strength1 sovereignty1 and renown4#ed ,agricultural in his taste and habits1 to ,issachar fell the immense and rich ,plain of ,esdraelon1 including the mountains of ,carmel1 ,gilboa1 and ,tabor4 ,patient in labor and invincible in war1 but weary in bearing such burdens1 like the overloaded ass lying down with the two panniers on his back1 8,issachar is a strong ass couching down between two burdens40 ,charmed with his possession1 and unable to expel the powerful ,canaanites from all his plains and mountains1 but convinced that peace with taxation was better than war1 8,he saw that rest was good1 and the land that it was pleasant1 and he bowed his shoulder to bear1 and became a servant unto tribute40#ee ,valiant in arms when the tyranny of ,sisera became intolerable1 8,the princes of ,issachar were with ,deborah20#ef and having broken the power of a flaunting foe1 8,issachar shall rejoice in his tents40#eg ,chosen to be the maritime tribe of the nation1 the portion of ,zebulun extended from the ,lake of ,gennesaret on the east to the ,mediterranean on the west1 and trafficking on both waters1 8,zebulun shall dwell at the haven of the sea1 and he shall be for an haven of ships40#eh ,as ,issachar was to rejoice in his 8tents0in the abundance of his harvests1 8so ,zebulun was to rejoice in his going out0in his successful voyages4 ,by a mutual interest in agriculture and commerce1 both were to 8suck of the abundance of the seas20 and manufacturing glass from the vitreous sand found on the ,mediterranean coast1 or exporting it in large quantities to other countries1 both were to grow rich from the 8treasures hid in the sand40 ,dealing largely with the ,gentiles1 who were attracted to their shore and inland cities by commercial interests1 these favored tribes 8shall call the people unto the mountain2 there they shall offer sacrifices of righteousness40#ei ,though doomed to obscurity in the annals of national greatness1 yet1 as if by way of compensation1 ,asher obtained the fruitful plain of ,accho1 8the key of ,palestine10#fj extending from ,mount ,carmel to ,zidon on the coast4 ,by the richness of the soil1 8,his bread shall be fat1 and he shall yield royal dainties20#fa and possessing luxuriant olive-groves1 8,he dipped his foot in oil40#fb ,promised to be 8blessed with children10 the descendants of ,asher numbered1 on entering ,canaan1 #bfg1jjj souls2#fc and on the accession of ,david to the throne1 the tribe sent an army of #dj1jjj troops to acknowledge the new sovereign4#fd ,subject to the sudden attacks of the plundering ,phnicians1 whose territory they occupied1 and compelled at all times to be upon their guard1 armed with their metallic greaves and sandals1 8,thy shoes shall be iron and brass2 and as thy days1 so shall thy strength be40#fe ,though the ,asherites gave ,israel neither king1 judge1 nor warrior1 yet the names of two illustrious widows shine out from the general obscurity8,anna1 a prophetess1 the daughter of ,phanuel1 of the tribe of ,aser1 which departed not from the temple1 but served ,god with fastings and prayers night and day20#ff and the 8widow of ,sarepta1 a city of ,sidon1 unto whom ,elijah was sent40#fg ,celebrated for their activity1 bravery1 and independence1 and represented in the prophetic symbols by a tree planted in a rich soil1 and growing to a prodigious size1 ,naphtali received 8,galilee of the ,gentiles10 whose fruitfulness of soil is only excelled by the beauty of the scenery3 8,naphtali is a spreading oak1 producing beautiful branches40#fh ,foreseeing the prosperity awaiting him1 in an eloquent apostrophe ,moses addressed the tribe3 8,oh ,naphtali1 satisfied with favor1 and full with the blessing of the ,lord1 possess thou the west and the south40#fi ,embracing within his possession the green hills and valleys of 8,upper ,galilee10 together with the ,sea of ,tiberias1 his posterity grew rich from the fruits of the one and the products of the other4 ,but1 reserved for a higher glory and assigned a more exalted destiny1 the inheritance of ,naphtali remained undistinguished for any great event till the dawn of our own era4 ,driven from his native city1 our ,lord chose ,capernaum as his chief residence1 situated within this tribeship4#gj ,here was his home during the three most eventful years of his life2 here the ,galileans received him gladly2 here is the scene of his greatest miracles and of his most touching parables2 here1 on the shore of its inland sea1 were born most of his apostles2 here he founded his infant church2 and thus enlightened in the persons of the first ,christians and earliest teachers of ,christianity1 ,naphtali possessed the 8west and the south0 by the spread of the ,gospel among the southern tribes1 and by its more general diffusion over the 8,great ,sea0 through ,europe and ,america4 ,and now1 after more than three thousand years1 each tribal possession retains its ancient physical characteristics1 yields its former agricultural products1 while prophecy has become history in the fortunes and destiny of the whole nation4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,location of ,jerusalem4 ,strong defensive ,position of the ,city4 ,surrounding ,hills and ,valleys4 ,its ,situation compared to that of ,athens and ,rome4 ,true ,meaning of the #abeth ,psalm4 ,tower of ,psephinus4 ,the two ,valleys4 ,height of the adjacent ,mountains4 ,a ,city without ,suburbs4 ,modern ,wall4 ,goliath's ,castle4 ,immense ,stones of ,solomon's ,age4 ,ancient ,portals4 ,beautiful ,corner-stone4 ,pinnacle of the ,temple from which ,christ was tempted to throw himself4 ,golden ,gate4 ,tower of ,antonia4 ,objection to ,prophecy answered4 ,the ,bevel the ,sign of ,jewish ,masonry4 ,great ,cave beneath the ,city4 ,wanderings by ,torchlight4 ,solomon's ,quarry4 ,tyropean ,valley4 ,five ,hills of ,jerusalem4 ,mount ,zion4 ,royal ,abode4 ,herod's three ,towers4 ,splendid ,church of ,st4 ,james4 ,house of ,caiaphas4 ,scene of the ,last ,supper and of ,pentecost4 ,tomb of ,david4 ,royal ,plunderers4 ,proof of its ,antiquity4 ,home of the ,lepers4 ,sad ,sight4 ,akra4 ,bezetha4 ,napoleon's ,church4 ,,on the southern section of the ,lebanon range1 in ,n4 lat4 #ca #df #de1 and in ,e4 long4 #ce #ac from ,greenwich1 stands the memorable city of ,jerusalem4 ,elevated #bfaj feet above the level of the ,mediterranean1 and #cibb above the ,river ,jordan1 it is thirty-three miles from the former and sixteen from the latter4 ,situated on a mountain summit1 the crown of which is broken into a wilderness of bleak limestone peaks1 divided by numberless ravines1 it is by nature one of the most strongly fortified cities in the world4 ,occupying the summits of five hills1 it is encompassed1 except on the north1 by deep valleys1 which in the earlier stages of military science must have been formidable obstructions to an assailing foe4 ,that well-known passage in the ,psalms1 8,as the mountains are round about ,jerusalem1 so is the ,lord round about his people10#ga most evidently includes the valleys that circumvallate the platform on which the city is built1 as well as the surrounding mountains4 ,indeed1 there is but little difference in the altitude of ,olivet and ,moriah1 of the ,hill of ,corruption and ,mount ,zion4 ,in the olden times1 when an invading foe approached the walls of a town with towers1 battering-rams1 ballistas1 and catapults1 an intervening valley was a more serious obstacle to encounter than a mountain to be scaled1 especially as it served as a fosse1 in crossing which the besiegers were exposed to the arrows of the besieged1 who crowded the ramparts above4 ,approach ,jerusalem from the north1 west1 or south1 and the city rises above the hills that environ it1 its embattled towers1 graceful minarets1 and swelling domes standing out against the sky as against a background4 ,in this regard it is not unlike the ,acropolis of ,athens1 which1 rising like a thing of life from the ,attic plain1 has ,lycabettus1 the ,pnyx1 the ,museum1 and the ,areopagus near1 and ,hymettus1 ,pentelicus1 ,mount ,parnes1 and galeos in the distance2 but it resembles more truly ,rome1 sitting on a cluster of hills1 with an ample plain for future expansion1 with hills near and mountains distant1 the ,janiculum answering to ,olivet1 and the ,apennines to the ,heights of ,moab4#gb ,to reconcile this passage with the topographical facts as they appear to every observer1 some have pointed to the white mountains of ,th on the south1 to the wall-like ridge of ,moab on the east1 and to the rugged summits of ,lebanon on the north2 but it is simpler and more natural to suppose that the ,psalmist had in his mind ,olivet1 the ,mount of ,corruption1 and the ,hill of ,evil ,council1 rising from the two valleys which1 like some deep moat1 circumvallate the city on the east1 south1 and west2 referring not so much to the height of the hills above the level of the city1 as to their height from their valley beds1 in which their everlasting bases rest4 ,but on the north there is no such natural obstruction to impede the advance of an enemy4 ,the ground rises gently to the summit of ,scopus1 which is a western projection of the ,olivet ridge1 a mile distant from the town1 and which gradually disappears toward the west4 ,to strengthen by art what nature had left defenseless1 the celebrated tower of ,psephinus was erected at the northwest corner of the ancient wall1 which1 being #gj cubits high1 was not only a 8tower of strength10 but also afforded from its top at sunrise a view of ,arabia and of the sea4 ,less than two miles to the northwest from ,jerusalem are two slight depressions1 separated by a rocky swell three quarters of a mile in width4 ,the one on the north is the head of the ,valley of the ,kidron4 ,at first a gentle depression1 it runs eastward a mile and a half2 then turning suddenly southward1 it contracts and deepens1 and becoming precipitous in its course1 sweeps round the bases of ,bezetha1 ,moriah1 and ,ophel1 joining the ,vale of ,hinnom at the beautiful ,gardens of ,siloam4 ,varying in depth and breadth1 it is seventy-five feet deep at the northeast corner of the city1 twenty-five deeper opposite ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate1 and reaches its greatest depth of #aej feet at the southeast angle of the ,temple area4 ,varying in breadth from a hundred to a thousand feet1 it is narrowest opposite the southeast corner of the town1 and has its greatest breadth between ,moriah and ,olivet1 on a line drawn from the ,golden ,gate4 ,the depression south of the rocky swell is the commencement of the ,valley of ,hinnom1 which at first is almost imperceptible2 but1 deepening and contracting as it winds round the western side of the city1 it runs for three quarters of a mile east by south to the ,yffa ,gate1 where it turns at right angles round the base of ,mount ,zion1 having broken cliffs on the right1 and shelving banks on the left4 ,running nearly due east for half a mile1 it joins the ,valley of the ,kidron at the ,pool of ,en-,rogel1 where these two famous valleys become one1 pursuing its sinuous course to the ,dead ,sea4 ,though but #dd feet deep near the ,yffa ,gate1 and #ejj wide1 it descends to the depth of more than #ejj feet below the southern brow of ,zion1 and is broadest at the point of conjunction with the ,kidron4 ,from the beds of these valleys rise the defensive mountains around the ,holy ,city4 ,though the lowest is less than #ej feet above the average level of the town1 and the highest not more than #bjj1 yet the triple summit of the ,mount of ,olives is more than #djj feet above the site of 8,absalom's ,pillar0 in the ,valley of ,jehoshaphat1 the ,mount of ,corruption is #dbb feet above ,en-,rogel1 and the ,hill of ,evil ,council rises #ejj feet above the scorched rocks that line its base in the ,vale of ,gehenna4 ,occupying the southern portion of its ancient site1 and surrounded1 as in former days1 with a massive wall1 ,jerusalem is a city without suburbs4 ,unlike the approach to ,zidon on the coast1 which is in the midst of groves of fig1 orange1 and mulberry-trees1 covering many miles in extent2 unlike the approach to ,damascus1 which is inclosed with gardens of exquisite beauty1 through which the ,abana flows in 8pearly brightness and perennial music the livelong day10 the approach to ,jerusalem is arrested by high walls and guarded gates1 beyond which are no habitations excepting the wretched huts of ,silwn on the south1 clinging to the rocky fastnesses of the ,mount of ,scandal4 ,being a capital city1 and situated in the most turbulent district of the country1 such a defense is necessary as a protection against the sudden attacks of the wild ,bedouins of the ,desert and of the ,ghr4 ,strongly fortified in the time of ,jebus1 when captured by ,david1 its enlarged area was afterward protected by massive walls and towers1 on which the sacred poets dwell with so much religious pride and delight4#gc ,in the days of our ,lord there were two wallsone inclosing ,mount ,zion1 the northern section of which extended a distance of #ahij feet east and west2 the other1 inclosing ,mount ,akra1 extended from the ,garden ,gate in the first wall to near the present ,damascus ,gate1 and1 curving to the southeast1 intersected the ,tower of ,antonia on ,mount ,moriah4 ,mount ,bezetha1 with the table-land beyond1 then formed the suburbs of the town2 but after the crucifixion the space was inclosed by a third wall1 by order of ,herod ,agrippa4 ,during the bloody wars occurring between the death of ,solomon and the ,egyptian conquerors1 the walls were alternately demolished and rebuilt by the respective captors of the city2 but it was not till the year #aedb ,a4,d4 that1 by order of the ,sultan ,suleiman ,i41 the present single wall was built4 ,having been constructed out of the old materials1 it contains blocks of stones representing every age of the city1 from the magnificent reign of ,solomon to the fluctuating rule of the ,crusaders4 ,the modern wall is of the common gray limestone of ,palestine1 formed of blocks of different dimensions1 and ranging in thickness from ten to fifteen feet1 and from twenty-five to forty in height1 according to the nature of the ground4 ,being two and a half miles in circumference1 it is less by two miles than the circuit of the ancient wall4 ,having many indentations and projections1 with salient angles1 square towers1 loopholes1 and battlements1 it is surmounted with a parapet1 protecting a pathway which is frequently thronged with people enjoying the fine promenade and beholding the commanding prospect4 ,at the northwest corner of the city1 which is #bea feet higher than the southeast corner of the ,temple area1 the native rock has been cut away to the depth of many feet on the outside of the wall1 while within are massive foundations of beveled stones bearing marks of high antiquity1 and now called 8,goliath's ,castle40 ,at this point the western wall begins1 running southeast as far as the ,yffa ,gate2 then1 turning southward1 and crossing ,mount ,zion along the brow of ,hinnom to a point nearly opposite to the ,protestant ,cemetery1 it joins the south wall1 which1 by a series of zigzags1 is carried eastward over the level summit of ,zion1 down its eastern declivities1 across the ,tyropean ,valley1 and up the ,hill of ,ophel1 where it joins the ,haram wall #eej feet from its southeast corner4 ,here are huge stones as old as the days of ,christ1 if not as old as the reign of ,solomon4 ,at the place of junction where the city wall joins that of the ,haram1 there is a section of an ancient arch1 beneath which is a small grated window opening into that long subterranean avenue leading up an inclined plane and a flight of steps to the ,temple area4 ,here also are three circular arches1 now walled up1 twenty-five feet high and fourteen wide1 marking the ancient portals leading to those stupendous vaults constructed by ,solomon to elevate the side of ,mount ,moriah to a common level4 ,at the southeast corner of the ,haram wall there are sixteen courses of large stones1 some of them measuring nineteen feet long1 four high1 and eight thick1 and bearing on their edge the unmistakable ,jewish bevel4 ,from the natural topography of the hill1 this corner of the wall must occupy the same spot on which stood the earliest wall1 as it stands on the very brow of the ,valley of ,jehoshaphat1 and there can be no doubt but that these are the identical stones laid down by ,solomon himself4 ,here is to be seen a beautiful specimen of a 8precious corner-stone10#gd the inspired symbol of a virtuous and lovely woman1#ge and a significant type of the ,messiah4#gf ,the material employed is a finer limestone and otherwise of a superior quality to that used in the common wall2 the joints are more closely formed2 and the finishing of the facing and of the beveling is so clean and fine1 that1 when fresh from the hands of the builder1 it must have resembled gigantic relievo paneling4 ,surmounting this corner of the wall1 no doubt1 stood that pinnacle of the ,temple from which ,satan tempted ,christ to cast himself down1 assuring him of the charge of angels over him4#gg ,according to ,josephus1 8a broad portico ran along the wall1 supported by four rows of columns1 which divided it into three parts1 forming a triple colonnade40 ,the central portico was #ajj feet high1 which1 with the height of the wall and the depth of the valley below its base1 gave an elevation of #caj feet4 8,and if from the top of the portico the beholder attempted to look down into the gulf below1 his eyes became dark and dizzy before they could penetrate to the immense depth40#gh ,illustration3 ,,immense ,,stones ,,of ,,solomon',s ,,age4 ,from this corner to the ,golden ,gate1 a distance of more than #ajjj feet1 is one unbroken line of wall1 composed mostly of large rough stones1 interspersed with which are fragments of antique columns4 ,near the top of the wall1 and projecting several feet1 is a round porphyry column1 on which1 according to a ,moslem legend1 ,mohammed is to sit astride and judge the world1 the people having been assembled for judgment in the vale below4 ,overlooking the ,kidron1 and facing the ,mount of ,olives beyond1 is the ,golden ,gate1 now walled up1 but which attracts the traveler's attention by its conspicuous location and its uncommon beauty4 ,being the centre of a projection fifty-five feet long1 and standing out six feet1 it consists of a double portal1 spanned by two semicircular arches richly ornamented4 ,from what resemble corbels spring two ,corinthian capitals1 sustaining an entablature bending round the entire arch4 ,within the gate is a noble chamber fifty-five feet square4 ,the ceiling is divided into flattened domes1 supported by arches springing from side pilasters1 and from two ,corinthian columns of polished marble1 adorned with elegant capitals2 and beneath the arches a pretty entablature is carried from pilaster to pilaster1 giving an air of exquisite beauty to the entire structure4 ,illustration3 ,,golden ,,gate,,interior ,,view4 ,the origin of this imposing gate is unknown4 ,it may be as old as the time of ,herod the ,great2 it may not be older than the reign of ,constantine4 ,impressed with its beauty1 some have regarded it as occupying the site of the 8,beautiful ,gate0 at which ,peter and ,john healed the cripple4 ,that1 however1 was a gate of the ,temple2 this is a gate of the city2 and the two can be identical only by supposing that 8gate to the ,temple0 is synonymous with 8entrance to the ,temple10 which is neither supported by fact nor analogy4 ,near ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate1 a distance of less than #ejj feet to the north1 is the northeast angle of the ,haram wall1 and unquestionably is the original angle of the wall which inclosed the ,temple area4 ,five courses of antique stones distinctly beveled1 beautifully hewn1 and of great dimensions1 remain in situ1 and are as entire as when laid there by the hand of the ,jewish mason4 ,the largest of the blocks is twenty-four feet long1 three high1 and over five wide1 at once reflecting the wealth and mechanical art of that early age4 ,this section of the wall projects eight feet1 forming a corner tower eighty-four feet long2 and the five courses of stone1 measuring nearly twenty feet from the base to the top of the quoins1 suggest that this was one of the bastions of the famous ,tower of ,antonia in which ,pilate held his 8,judgment ,hall40 ,but to suppose the antiquity of these stones1 and that they occupy their original places1 is regarded by some as a confutation of our ,lord's prediction1 8,there shall not be left one stone upon another that shall not be thrown down40#gi ,reference1 however1 to the prophecy in all its scope1 will disclose the fact that ,christ spoke of the stones of the ,temple1 and not of the stones composing the wall of the city2 and both history and research now prove how terribly have been fulfilled his fearful and exact words4 ,the manner in which these lower layers have been preserved intact is simple and natural4 ,in the demolition of the walls of the city by ,titus and also by subsequent conquerors1 the lower courses escaped notice1 having been buried up in the dbris of the upper layers2 and in the reconstruction of the wall by ,suleiman ,i41 he permitted them to remain undisturbed in their primeval beds4 ,the modern portions of the wall are too heterogeneous in their character and of too mean a masonry to have any claim either to antiquity or to ,jewish workmanship1 and the upper and lower layers no less mark two distinct periods of national history than two eras in mural architecture4 ,the former indicate an age of weakness and poverty1 the latter of power and wealth2 the one discloses haste and confusion1 the other deliberation and artistic accuracy2 the modern is in keeping with the art and taste of the sensual ,moslem1 the ancient is in harmony with the pride and genius of the ,jew4 ,nor is there any reason for supposing the lower layers to have been the work either of the ,romans or of the ,saracens1 as the bevel is the masonic sign of the ,jewish builders1 and1 having originated with them1 it was a peculiarity of their architecture#hj4 ,consisting of a narrow strip along the edge of the stone1 cut down half an inch lower than the rest of the surface1 which had been hewn and squared1 the bevel was a simple and beautiful mural ornament2 and when these beveled stones were laid up in a wall1 such as encompassed the city in the days of ,solomon1 the depressed edges must have resembled grooves or lengthened lines1 producing the appearance of immense panels4 ,but of all the objects of interest which met my eye during my tour of the walls1 none was more thrilling than the 8,great ,cave0 beneath ,jerusalem1 the entrance to which is just east of the ,damascus ,gate4 ,in constructing the north wall of the city1 the ,hill ,bezetha has been cut through the solid rock to the depth of forty feet1 the excavation having been extended #fjj feet east and west1 and #dej north and south4 ,lower down1 and near the base of the rock on which the wall stands1 is what might have been designed for a fosse1 but which is now the receptacle of carrion4 ,the existence of a 8,great ,cave0 beneath the city1 and in some way connected with the ,temple of ,solomon1 has been the subject of a legend familiar to the aged1 but the entrance to which1 if known to the living at all1 remained a secret with the few till accidentally discovered through a missionary's dog4#ha ,attracted to the spot by the scent of the bones of animals destroyed by jackals1 the dog pushed away the dirt in pawing to reach his prey1 and revealed to his master one of the greatest wonders connected with a city whose history and topography have engaged the attention of the learned in all ages4 ,accompanied by the ,american consul and a single servant1 we entered the cave without difficulty1 and1 lighting our wax tapers1 proceeded along carefully for a hundred feet1 when we began rapidly to descend4 ,to our surprise1 on our right sat an ,arab maiden who had become the sibyl of the cavern1 surrounded by several natives1 to whom she was delivering her sibylline oracles4 ,rapidly descending toward the southeast1 we soon found ourselves in a cave three thousand feet in circumference1 more than a thousand feet in length1 and more than half that distance in breadth4 ,the air was damp2 the darkness that of a rayless night2 the ground on which we walked was strewn with the chippings of the quarrier2 the walls around us were marred with marks of the chisel1 and the ceiling above us adorned with stalactites of a rose-color hue1 from which trickled the percolating waters of the city2 while1 disturbed by our approach1 bats screamed their grief and flapped their long black wings against their solid nests4 ,moving southward1 we came to the verge of a precipice a hundred feet across and fifteen feet deep1 on the bottom of which the skeleton of some lost explorer had been found4 ,threading a long gallery on the left1 we saw a fountain as deep as it was wide1 partially filled with water strongly impregnated with lime4 ,turning eastward1 we entered a second gallery of greater depth1 in the sides of which are immense blocks of limestone1 in part detached from their native bed1 just as they were left by the unknown quarrier thousands of years ago4 ,here1 as elsewhere1 were the unmistakable marks of a broad chisel-shaped instrument1 evidently used to detach the blocks on either side and at top and bottom1 and then by the pressure of a lever the mass was broken off from the rock behind4 ,occasionally we passed huge pillars supporting the ceiling above1 and in several instances saw blocks hewn and squared ready to be hoisted to their destination4 ,on the right and left winding passage-ways led us to noble halls1 white as snow1 and supported by native piers1 on which are engraven the cross of some ,christian pilgrim or knight of the ,crusades2 and on the sides of the chambers are ,hebrew and ,arabic inscriptions1 the memorial of some wandering ,jew and some conquering son of the ,prophet4 ,seeking in vain for an entrance other than that on the north1 we returned to daylight full of curious thoughts4 ,what tales of woe are written on these walls6 and1 could we hear their voices1 too low for mortal ear1 what secrets would they reveal6 ,in the time of sieges this has been the retreat of ,jew and ,christian1 of ,saracen and knight2 the last refuge of helpless womanhood1 of tender children1 of infirm old age1 and the death-bed of dying heroes wounded in the fight4 ,being unquestionably a quarry1 many facts lead to the conclusion that here were hewn the stones for the construction of ,solomon's magnificent temple4 ,the material1 both as to grain and color1 is the same as that found in the antique walls and buildings of the city2 the extent of the quarry1 together with the vast amount of stone removed1 and in such large blocks1 suggest the erection of some grand temple2 the ancient tradition coming down from the days of ,jeremiah and pointing to this quarry2 the remarkable absence of another adjacent to the city2 and the important fact that the mouth of the quarry is many feet higher than the surface of the ,temple area1 which must have facilitated the transportation of those immense blocks of limestone1 which were no doubt conveyed on rollers down the inclined plane of the quarry to the site of the ,temple1 where1 hewn and finished1 they were silently elevated to their destined placethe magnificent fane of ,solomon1 with all its courts and porticoes1 rising noiselessly into being1 as of old the world rose from naught1 at once explaining and fulfilling the words of sacred history3 8,the house1 when it was in building1 was built of stone made ready before it was brought thither1 so that there was neither hammer nor axe1 nor any tool of iron heard in the house while it was building40#hb ,nothing more impressively indicates the complete destruction of ancient ,jerusalem than the impossibility of identifying with exactitude the location of its former gates1 the scene of so many thrilling events4 ,fire and sword1 plunder and time1 have removed those landmarks of great historic deeds4 ,these gone1 we are left to conjecture as to the location of the 8,valley ,gate10 through which ,nehemiah passed on his nocturnal exploration to ascertain the condition of the city2#hc of the 8,east ,gate10 from which ,jeremiah went forth with the ancients of the people to the ,valley of the ,son of ,hinnom1 to illustrate the destruction of the ,jews by breaking in their presence a potter's vessel2#hd of the 8,horse ,gate10 out of which the ambitious ,queen ,athaliah was led to execution2#he of the 8,gate betwixt the two walls10 8whence ,zedekiah and all his men of war fled before the ,king of ,babylon20#hf and of the 8,gate of ,benjamin10 where the king sat when the kind ,ebed-,melech1 the ,ethiopian1 interceded in behalf of ,jeremiah1 then in a loathsome dungeon beneath the royal palace4#hg ,of the seven gates which penetrate the walls of modern ,jerusalem1 the noblest and most ancient of the number is the one standing in the mouth of the broad depression sweeping southward through the city1 called the ,damascus ,gate4 ,surmounted with turrets and battlements1 it not only presents an imposing appearance1 but its ornamental architecture indicates its ,saracenic origin and style4 ,judging from the formation of the ground it occupies1 it probably marks the site of an older gateway4 ,as of old1 so now1 from its portal runs the great northern road to ,nablous2 and from it1 no doubt1 ,saul of ,tarsus went forth1 leading his band of persecutors to crush the infant church of ,jesus in ,damascus4 ,constructed in the form of an elliptical arch1 flanked with massive towers of great antiquity1 and inclosed with huge doors incased with iron1 it wears the appearance of a prison4 ,within is a large chamber1 grim and gloomy1 formed by the arch and towers1 and from which a square-shaped and winding staircase leads to the top of the parapet4 ,guarded by four ,turkish soldiers1 the traveler has illustrated before him ,st4 ,luke's description of the ,roman guard on the night of our ,lord's trial3 8,and when they had kindled a fire in the midst of the hall1 and were set down together1 ,peter sat down among them40#hh ,in the northeast corner of the hall1 within the gateway1 the soldiers build a fire of juniper coals when the weather is cold1 the smoke of which deepens the gloom of the already blackened walls4 ,midway between this gate and the northeast corner of the city is the 8,gate of ,flowers10 consisting of a small portal penetrating a tower1 but which is now inaccessible1 having been walled up since #ahcd4 ,in the eastern wall of the city is ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate1 a simple structure1 and without ornaments1 except the carved figures of two lions over the entrance4 ,from it a path descends the steep sides of ,moriah1 and1 crossing the small stone bridge that spans the ,valley of the ,kidron1 leads up to the ,garden of ,gethsemane and to the ,mount of ,olives4 ,compelled to fly before the rebellious ,absalom1 it was out of the gate that stood on the site of the present one that ,david fled1 and1 a thousand years later1 a greater than ,david went forth out of the same portal on the night of his betrayal4 ,as it is the chief entrance to the city on the east1 streams of pilgrims from the ,heights of ,benjamin on the north1 and from the ,valley of the ,jordan on the east1 incessantly flow in and out of this well-known gate4 ,situated in the southern wall1 nearly in the centre of the ,tyropean ,valley1 is the 8,gate of the ,western ,africans10 which is of inferior construction1 and is opened and shut according to the caprice of the governor4 ,fortunately1 it was opened when ,i passed1 an event which may not occur again for many years4 ,from it a path descends to the charming gardens of ,silwn4 ,on the summit of a ridge beyond is the ,gate of ,zion1 the cleanest and most quiet of the seven4 ,but the great and most usually thronged portal of the town is the ,yffa ,gate1 located in the western wall of the city1 between ,mount ,zion and ,mount ,akra4 ,consisting of a massive square tower1 it has a quadrangular hall within4 ,probably standing on the site of ,nehemiah's 8,valley ,gate10 it is the point to which all the great thoroughfares converge1 from ,bethlehem and ,hebron on the south1 and from ,yffa on the west4 ,carefully guarded during the day by a band of soldiers1 all the gates are closed at night when the evening gun is fired4 ,from a superstition as suggestive of fear as it is precautionary against surprise1 the gates are closed on ,friday between the hours of twelve and one1 because of an old and prevalent tradition that on that day and at that hour the ,christians will attempt to retake ,jerusalem4 ,running north and south through the very heart of the city is a broad depression1 and coming up from ,siloam1 on the south1 is the ,tyropean ,valley1 joining the former at the northeast corner of ,mount ,zion1 where the latter abruptly diverges to the westward1 intersecting the ,valley of ,gihon4 ,upon its divergence hangs the long and fierce controversy touching the topography of the ancient city4 ,though its upper section is filled with rubbish from twenty to fifty feet deep1 yet there is a perceptible ascent from ,christian ,street to the ,hippic ,tower1 as there is a descent from the ,yffa ,gate into the valley beyond4 ,if the intervening ridge is not accumulated earth1 it is difficult to conceive how ,mount ,zion could ever have been the 8strong-hold0 represented by sacred and profane writers4 ,the construction of the three famous towers on the northwest portion of the hill by ,herod the ,great was not to supply a natural defect1 but to honor the king's favorites1 and to be the depositories of his royal treasures4 ,as recent excavations in the vicinity confirm the correctness of the supposition1 so future excavations will remove the last doubt that this is the 8,valley of the ,cheesemongers0 described by ,josephus1 separating the 8upper city from the lower40#hi ,as of old1 ,jerusalem stands upon five hills1 formed in part by valleys without the city1 and by depressions within4 ,though1 when viewed from within the town1 their altitude is not great1 yet in their general outlines all are distinctly defined4 ,of these hills1 covering an area of four and a half miles in circumference and half a mile in diameter1 ,zion1 ,moriah1 and ,ophel are mentioned by the inspired historians1 while1 together with the former1 ,akra and ,bezetha are described by ,josephus4 ,rising in the form of a parallelogram1 ,mount ,zion is the largest of the five sacred hills4 ,attaining an average height of more than #ejj feet above the surrounding valleys1 its southern and western sides are as rugged as they are steep4 ,though lower than the northwest corner of ,akra1 yet1 when viewed either from the ,tyropean or the ,hinnom valleys1 the bold brow of ,zion is seen to best advantage1 justifying the confidence reposed in it as a strong defensive position4 ,sloping down toward the ,king's ,gardens1 where three valleys meet1 its southeastern sides are terraced from base to summit1 and planted with corn and olives1 fulfilling the words of the prophet1 8,zion shall be plowed like a field40#ij ,directly opposite the ,haram1 the naked rocks rise from the 8,vale of the ,cheesemongers0 more than thirty feet high1 and on the verge of the precipice once stood the 8,house of the ,mighty40 ,less than half the hill is included within the present walls1 occupied by the ,citadel1 the ,english ,church1 the ,american ,consulate1 the ,post-office1 the ,prussian ,hospital1 the ,church of ,st4 ,james1 the ,jewish ,synagogue1 private residences1 and the ,lepers' ,quarters2 while beyond the walls are the ,diocesan school-house1 the ,armenian ,convent1 the ,tomb of ,david1 and the ,protestant ,cemetery4 ,emotions of joy and sadness are awakened as one stands upon the site of those great historic events which have filled the world with their renown1 and impressed their inevitable results1 for 8weal or woe10 upon the opinions and actions of mankind4 ,as the religious sensibilities of our nature are most susceptible of excitement1 so no spot on earth excites the mind to the same degree as where the events of sacred history occurred4 ,around ,mount ,zion cluster memories of human shame and glory4 ,here the defiant words of the ,jebusites kindled the martial soul of ,david1 who1 summoning all his military skill and courage for the attack1 captured the 8stronghold of ,jebus40 ,here he reigned for thirty-three years in unrivaled wealth and glory1 and here he penned many of his sublime psalms4 ,here the ruder palace of the father gave way to the grander palace of the son4 ,here1 in regal magnificence1 unequaled in the annals of kings1 ,solomon held his court1 displaying a wisdom as vast as his wealth was exhaustless1 and achieving for himself a name that was borne to the uttermost parts of the earth in accents of praise and gladness4 ,here1 for a thousand years1 their descendants reigned in power and glory2 and here1 on the very summit of their pleasures and greatness1 they1 with fourteen of their successors to the throne1 were entombed4 ,here stood the palace of ,caiaphas1 in whose judgment-hall ,jesus was tried and ,peter swore4 ,to gratify personal ambition1 and perpetuate the memory of his royal favorites1 here ,herod the ,great reared those three massive towers which were the pride and admiration of the triumphant ,titus4 ,calling one ,mariamne1 in honor of his queen1 whom he afterward slew in a passion of jealousy1 he named the second ,phasalus1 after his friend1 and the third ,hippicus1 in memory of his brother1 both of whom were slain in battle1 fighting in his behalf4#ia ,of these towers but one remains1 that of ,hippicus1 which is the citadel of the modern town4 ,spanning the moat is an old bridge leading to the castle4 ,several flights of stone steps lead to the parapet1 on which a number of guns are mounted1 fit only for firing occasional salutes1 and from the top an extraordinary view is gained of ,jerusalem and its environs4 ,aside from its dingy appearance1 ,hippicus is invested with thrilling associations4 ,with an antiquity unquestioned1 the most reliable authorities agree that it occupies its ancient site4 ,as it now stands1 it represents two great eras in the world's historythat of ,herod and that of the ,crusaders2 the foundations belonging to the former1 the superstructure to the latter4 ,composed of a group of square towers1 it resembles a quadrangle1 though not a perfect square1 its sides varying from sixty to seventy feet in length4 ,the tower next to the ,yffa ,gate is the most interesting1 as it is the most ancient4 ,the height of the antique portion1 from the bottom of the broad fosse1 is forty feet1 and1 being entirely solid1 it has for nineteen centuries resisted the battering-rams of the ,romans1 the cannon of the ,egyptians1 and the prying curiosity of the modern explorer4 ,recent excavations have shown that for several feet upward from its base the foundation is formed of the natural rock1 hewn into shape1 and faced with immense stones1 distinctly beveled1 indicating their ,jewish origin1 and evidently remaining where they were originally placed4 ,in addition to its antiquity1 this tower is of great importance1 as it marks the starting-point of the first and second walls of the ancient city1 and unmistakably points out their general direction4 ,illustration3 ,,mount ,,zion ,,and ,,tower ,,of ,,hippicus4 ,leading from the ,hippic ,tower to the south wall of the city is a spacious and grand avenue4 ,on its western side are the ,caserne di ,sion and the residence of the ,armenian patriarch2 opposite are the ,english ,church and the ,armenian ,convent4 ,the entrance to the convent is through a large but simple portal1 opening into a court around which rise the dormitories1 capable of accommodating #hjjj pilgrims4 ,adjoining the monastery is the ,church of ,st4 ,james1 the most sumptuous building of the kind in the ,east1 and1 next to the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre1 the largest religious edifice in ,jerusalem4 ,belonging formerly to the ,georgians1 who failed to pay the enormous tax levied upon it1 it was sold to the ,armenians in the fifteenth century4 ,the interior is gorgeous to a fault4 ,the floor is inlaid with rich mosaics2 the pillars supporting the roof are incased with tiles of blue and green porcelain1 and ornamented with gilded crosses1 and the walls are decorated with pictures of the ,byzantine school4 ,the high altar is indescribably grand1 adorned with silver vases filled with flowers1 with pictures representing scriptural scenes1 and with golden lamps suspended from the ceiling4 ,but the chief attraction of the church is the chapel of ,st4 ,james1 marking at once the scene of his martyrdom and the place of his burial4 ,all that affection could suggest1 art produce1 and wealth procure1 adorns this splendid mausoleum4 ,the doors are enameled with a mosaic-work of coral and mother-of-pearl1 dazzling with their brilliancy the eye of the beholder1 and charming him with their extraordinary beauty4 ,the interior is faced with polished marble2 from the ceiling hang golden lamps1 ever burning2 while from a costly censer incense ascends in perpetual memory of the sainted dead4 ,around this sepulchral church are lovely gardens1 dressed and beautified by the monks of ,armenia1 whose love for flowers and trees is only excelled by the taste displayed in training them4 ,from these gardens an iron portal opens toward the ,zion ,gate1 #ajj yards beyond which is the traditional ,house of ,caiaphas1 dating back in its authentic history to the fourth century1 and now a dependency on the large establishment within the walls4 ,within this house is a small cell1 richly decorated with pearl and porcelain1 in which ,christ is said to have been kept in durance the night previous to his crucifixion4 ,near the prison is a marble statue of ,jesus tied to the pillar of flagellation1 which devout women were approaching on their knees and kissing2 and just beyond is the legendary stone which closed the mouth of our ,lord's sepulchre4 ,not far to the south is the ,tomb of ,david1 now a mosque1 whose graceful minaret never fails to attract the traveler's attention as he approaches the ,holy ,city from the south4 ,the edifice was once a ,christian church1 and1 besides covering the tomb of the renowned ,king of ,israel1 contains the 8upper room0 where ,christ ate the ,passover with his disciples1#ib and where he washed their feet2#ic where1 after his resurrection1 the disciples were assembled with closed doors1 and1 ,jesus appearing in their midst1 said1 8,peace be unto you20#id where the doubting ,thomas was permitted to thrust his hand into the ,redeemer's side2#ie and where1 on the day of ,pentecost1 the apostles received the ,holy ,ghost4#if ,the 8upper room0 is a large chamber1 fifty feet long and thirty wide1 with ribbed ceiling and pendents4 ,its appearance indicates great age1 and though1 through neglect1 it wears a dreary aspect1 it is so firmly built that1 without violence1 it will stand for a thousand years to come4 ,in the middle of the fourth century it was regarded by ,cyril1 then ,bishop of ,jerusalem1 as the scene of the ,pentecost1 and a few years thereafter it was seen by ,epiphanius1 who declared it one of the few buildings which had escaped destruction when ,titus captured the city4 ,whether this is the 8guest-chamber0 where so many great events occurred or not1 ,zion is the designated place whence were to go forth the conquering forces of the ,messiah3 8,out of ,zion shall go forth the law1 and the word of the ,lord from ,jerusalem40 ,zion was always the place of convocation1 and the only one in the ,holy ,city1 excepting ,mount ,moriah1 where great assemblies could gather2 and somewhere on its broad summit the representative ,jews out of all nations were in solemn convocation when1 8hearing a sound from heaven as of a rushing mighty wind10 the vast multitude came together1 unto whom the promise of the ,spirit had been made4#ig ,in the east end of the room is a small niche where it is said ,christ sat at the 8,last ,supper10 and where the ,latin monk now sits when1 at stated periods1 he is permitted to celebrate mass within its consecrated precincts2 and here1 in imitation of our ,lord1 the ,franciscan monks wash the worn feet of the pious pilgrim1 who1 from the uttermost parts of the earth1 has come to worship at these holiest of earthly shrines4 ,beneath this mosque is the reputed ,tomb of ,david4 ,of its antiquity there can be no doubt1 as no historic fact is better attested2 of its identity there is no dispute1 as ,jews1 ,christians1 and ,moslem revere it as only second in holiness to the site of the ,temple4 ,at all hours of the day venerable ,jews and beautiful ,jewesses may be seen there1 silently standing at its closed portal1 as if half expectant that their ,great ,king will again awake to power1 and vindicate their rights4 ,with undying affection the ,jews have ever regarded the sepulchres of their fathers1 and ,nehemiah assigned as a reason for his sad countenance in the presence of ,artaxerxes 8that the place of my fathers' sepulchres lieth waste1 and the gates thereof are consumed with fire40#ih ,and when that noble prophet returned to his beloved ,jerusalem1 he completed the wall which ,shallum had commenced1 extending it 8unto the place over against the sepulchres of ,david1 and to the pool that was made1 and unto the house of the mighty40#ii ,according to ,josephus1 ,solomon interred his father here 8with great magnificence1 and with all the funeral pomp which kings used to be buried with20#ajj and deposited immense wealth within the tomb1 which remained undisturbed through all the revolutions of the kingdom1 down to within #aej years of the ,christian era4 ,driven by the stern necessities of war1 ,hyrcanus1 the son of ,simon ,maccabeus1 and successor of his father to the high-priesthood1 plundered the royal vault1 extracting therefrom the enormous sum of #cjjj talents of silver1 which he gave to ,antiochus ,pius to raise the siege of ,jerusalem and grant him terms of peace4#aja ,finding the treasure in an adjoining vault1 ,hyrcanus did not approach the dust of ,david2 but years later1 hearing of the success of the son of ,simon1 and wanting means to complete his magnificent works in the city1 ,herod the ,great made a similar attempt2 but failing to discover the treasure1 he essayed to enter the very chamber which contains the bodies of ,david and ,solomon1 and was only deterred in the consummation of his purpose by the accidental death of two of the guard1 who were killed by a flame suddenly bursting upon them4#ajb ,in his interpretation of the ,messianic prophecies1 on the day of ,pentecost ,st4 ,peter refers to this venerable monument1 declaring that 8his sepulchre is with us unto this day40#ajc ,at the close of the twelfth century1 one of the walls of the building covering the tomb gave way1 and1 in order to repair it1 the patriarch of the city commanded his workmen to take stones from the original wall of ,zion2 in gathering them1 they uncovered the mouth of a cave2 on exploring it1 they reached a large hall supported by marble pillars incased with gold1 and in it were two tablets1 and on each lay a crown and sceptre of gold4 ,near the sarcophagi were iron chests carefully sealed1 and1 when they were on the point of opening them1 a blast of wind issuing from the cavern drove them back1 throwing them senseless to the ground4 ,recovering1 they heard a voice commanding them to depart4 ,on reporting their adventure to the patriarch1 he concluded that what they had mistaken for tables were the tombs of ,david and ,solomon1 and immediately ordered the vault to be closed4 ,in #ahci1 ,sir ,moses and ,lady ,montefiore were permitted1 by paying an immense sum1 to look through the 8lattice of a trellised door10 and behold the tombs of their renowned ancestors4#ajd ,of the size and appearance of the sepulchre it is impossible to speak with accuracy1 as the fanatical ,moslems1 who guard it with religious superstition1 only suffer the traveler to approach the outer entrance4 ,like most of the tombs of that age1 it is probably hewn in the solid rock1 and decorated in a manner becoming royalty2 but of its proportions and grandeur the world must remain in ignorance till the ,holy ,city shall have passed into the hands of ,christians1 when those of every faith shall be permitted to linger around the dust of ,israel's great kings1 who sleep in death amid the scenes of their greatest glory4 ,a few paces within the wall1 and to the east of the ,zion ,gate1 are the 8quarters of the lepers40 ,though formerly excluded from the city1 they are now suffered to build their wretched huts along the wall4 ,in obedience to a law prevalent throughout the ,east1 all lepers are compelled to live together in three colonies1 and it is a coincidence no less singular than true that the cities in which these colonies are located were the residences of three historic lepers,naaman of ,damascus1#aje ,gehazi of ,nablous1#ajf and ,king ,azariah of ,jerusalem4#ajg ,numbering in all #bjj1 those on ,mount ,zion are supported by charity4 ,their homes are miserable huts1 low1 dark1 and loathsome4 ,allowed to marry only with each other1 their offspring1 when born1 are usually fair1 and apparently healthy4 ,retaining their health and beauty up to the period of puberty1 the fatal disease1 like a scrofulous spot1 then makes its appearance on a finger1 on the nose1 or on the cheek1 and1 spreading over the system1 it ultimately reaches some vital organ1 and the unhappy victim dies4 ,preparing their evening meal1 men and women moved with feeble step from hut to hut1 exchanging articles of food1 and also their rude cooking utensils4 ,their garments were old and torn1 their voices were dry and husky1 their faces were red like a coal of fire half extinguished1 their eyes swollen and restless1 their hair was gone1 their lips and cheeks1 nose and ears were corroded with ulcers1 and the flesh of their hands and arms had been eaten away1 leaving the bone red and bare4 ,standing afar off1 as in the days of ,christ1 they stretched out their hands1 and begged in tones so piteously that none could resist their entreaties4 ,in the plaintive accents of their native ,arabic1 they hailed me1 8,pilgrim1 give me2 for the ,lord's sake1 give me40 ,dropping a few piastres in the folds of their infected robes1 ,i hastened away1 hearing their tones of pity1 and seeing their horrid forms in memory days after the spectacle had been withdrawn4 ,alas for them to whom this world is one great hospital1 and life the vestibule of the grave6 ,in a country where sanitary regulations are ignored1 it is not strange that such persons are allowed to marry and propagate their unfortunate progeny4 ,their marriage1 like that of idiots and lunatics1 should be treated by the government as a crime against humanity4 ,were marriages among them prohibited1 this leprous race would soon become extinct1 and society would be relieved of one of its worst maladies4 ,in cases of spontaneous leprosy the victim is banished from his home1 and1 becoming a denizen of the infected quarter1 he contracts matrimonial alliances1 and perpetuates the evil4 ,though the continuance of the disease is mostly hereditary1 yet occasionally it is contracted4 ,while only the proximate cause of leprosy has been determined1 the ,scriptures assume it to be an evil inflicted upon the guilty for the commission of heinous offenses against the divine law2 and1 if modesty permitted1 it could be easily shown that the unmentionable crimes too prevalent in the ,east justly merit such a condemnation4 ,retaining all its ancient characteristics1 leprosy still infects the garments worn by leprous persons1 and also the stones and mortar of the buildings they occupy4 ,two centuries ago1 ,calmet made the suggestion that the former was caused by vermin infecting clothes and skins1 and the latter was caused by animalcul which1 like mites in cheese1 erode the stones and mortar4 ,connected with ,mount ,zion on the north by a small isthmus is the ,hill ,akra4 ,though not mentioned in the ,bible by a name at present known1 it holds a conspicuous place in ,jewish history as the scene of some of the most fearful struggles between the defenders and the assailants of the city4 ,called by ,josephus the 8,lower ,city10 to distinguish it from the 8,upper ,city10 situated on ,mount ,zion1 it is described by him as being separated from the latter by the ,tyropean ,valley1 the buildings on the two hills facing each other1 and terminating at the intervening ravine4 ,at present ,akra is a long1 stony ridge of a gibbous shape4 ,extending from the ,yffa ,gate to the northwest corner of the town1 and including the site of the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre1 it extends eastward to the western wall of the ,haram4 ,it is now the ,christian quarter of the city1 and the site of several fine convents4 ,though covered with buildings1 its gibbous form is perceptible1 both in ascending from ,st4 ,stephen's ,street1 and also from the ,yffa ,gate4 ,originally it was crowned with a lofty rock1 which proved such a strong position that the ,syrians under ,antiochus ,epiphanes successfully resisted the attacks of the ,jews for twenty years1 and1 after the enemy had been dislodged1 it 8required the constant labor of all ,jerusalem during three years to level it0 to its present height4 ,separated from ,akra by a valley which the ,asmoneans partially filled up is the ,hill ,bezetha1 a long1 irregular ridge running north by west from the ,temple area4 ,on the east it rises abruptly from the ,valley of ,jehoshaphat1 on the south it is separated from ,mount ,moriah by a deep fosse1 while on the north it has been cut into two parts by a broad and deep excavation4 ,when carefully compared1 the two parts exactly correspond4 ,the north wall of the city crosses the southern half of this ridge1 and in the face of the opposite section is the famous ,grotto of ,jeremiah4 ,it was to inclose this entire hill1 then extending #ajjj yards north and south1 and from #ejj to #ajjj east and west1 that ,herod ,agrippa built the third wall of ancient ,jerusalem4 ,up to that time it was the suburb of the city1 and1 though the last of the five hills to become inhabited1 it ultimately became the most populous1 receiving as its name ,bezetha8,the ,new ,city40 ,it is now the ,moslem quarter of the town4 ,on the traditional site of ,herod's palace stands the ,mosque of the ,dervishes4 ,true to their low conceptions of architecture1 the ,mohammedan dwellings are destitute of taste and design4 ,on the northeast corner of this ridge there is a large area devoted to pasturage1 where the pasha's elegant horses are kept4 ,not far from ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate is the ,gothic ,church of ,st4 ,anne1 recently presented to the ,emperor of the ,french by the ,sultan for services rendered during the ,crimean ,war4 ,it has been repaired by order of its new proprietor1 and around it the ,latins are erecting a nunnery for the 8,sisters of the ,sacred ,heart40 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,mount ,moriah4 ,site of ,solomon's ,temple4 ,surrounding ,walls4 ,great ,fosse4 ,pasha's ,palace4 ,council ,chamber of the ,jewish ,sanhedrim4 ,jews' ,place of ,wailing4 ,their cruel ,treatment4 ,scene on ,friday ,afternoon4 ,mournful ,spectacle4 ,high-priest4 ,prophecy fulfilled4 ,solomon's ,bridge4 ,its ,antiquity4 ,temple ,area4 ,tower of ,antonia4 ,shrines within the ,inclosure4 ,imposing ,view4 ,dome of the ,chain4 ,mosque of ,omar4 ,its grand ,exterior4 ,its ,history4 ,its ,portals4 ,its magnificent ,interior4 ,sacred ,rock within the ,mosque4 ,traditions4 ,scene of the ,offering of ,isaac and of other ,scriptural ,events4 ,mosque of ,el-,aksa4 ,its ,interior and ,history4 ,solomon's subterranean ,passageway4 ,extraordinary ,workmanship4 ,mosque of ,jesus4 ,solomon's great ,vaults4 ,they reflect his ,genius4 ,evidence of their ,antiquity4 ,solomon's great ,lake beneath his ,temple4 ,his ,work4 ,vicissitudes of ,mount ,moriah4 ,,great events monopolize great names4 ,originally the term 8,land of ,moriah0 was applied to ,jerusalem and its environs1 but in the lapse of ages the name 8,moriah0 became more restricted1 and is now employed to designate the smallest of the five hills on which the ,holy ,city stands4 ,mount ,moriah was formerly a continuation of the ,bezetha ridge1 from which it is now separated by a deep fosse1 traditionally called ,bethesda4 ,bounded on the west by the ,tyropean ,valley and the broad depression coming down from the ,damascus ,gate1 it has the ,fosse of ,antonia on the north1 the ,valley of ,jehoshaphat on the east1 and ,mount ,ophel on the south4 ,ophel is also a part of the ,bezetha ridge4 ,its summit is #ajj feet lower than the top of ,moriah1 and is separated from the latter by the ,haram wall4 ,having a length of #aefj feet1 it is #cjj wide from brow to brow4 ,it is the fifth hill of the city1 and is at present terraced like ,mount ,zion1 and planted with fruit-trees4 ,in the reign of ,solomon it was included within the city walls1 and after the return of the ,jews from captivity under ,nehemiah it was occupied by the ,nethinims1 or ,temple servants4 ,what is now known as the ,temple area is a beautiful inclosure of thirty-six acres1 surrounded by a wall nine feet thick at the base and three at the parapet1 and ranging from fifty to eighty feet high on the exterior1 and from ten to fifteen on the interior1 according to the surface of the ground4 ,it is composed of large blocks of limestone1 many of which are of great antiquity4 ,the area being inclosed on the east and south by the city walls1 which have already been described1 it only remains to consider those on the north and south4 ,a hundred feet south of ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate the north wall of the ,haram commences1 running westward #ajfj feet1 nearly the whole of which is encumbered with buildings clinging to the side and top4 ,judging from the description of the extent and form of the ,temple area as given by ,josephus1#ajh this wall has been carried some #fjj feet north of the line of its original location4 ,it is now penetrated by three portalsthe largest and most beautiful one is reached by a path from ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate4 ,extending from this portal east and west is one of the most remarkable excavations in ,jerusalem1 supposed to be the fosse mentioned by ,josephus for the defense of the ,tower of ,antonia4#aji ,in length #dfj feet1 #acj broad1 and seventy-five deep1 its sides are constructed of small stones covered with cement1 suggesting that in times of peace it served as a reservoir1 and in war as a moat4 ,in the southwest corner are two high-arched vaults1 extending side by side under the modern buildings4 ,whether the water which supplied this reservoir came from the clouds1 or was conveyed by a subterranean conduit from the ,pool of ,hezekiah1 or from the aqueduct of ,pontius ,pilate1 is an undecided question4 ,the fosse itself is one of the greatest monuments of antiquity1 pointing back to the days of national grandeur1 and to those sanguinary sieges when ,antonia1 rising from the 8abyss10 stood a tower of strength against the assaulting foe4 ,surmounting this wall on its western end1 and extending a distance of #cgj feet1 is the ,pasha's ,palace1 a pile of irregular and ill-shaped buildings externally1 but containing within all the magnificence and luxuries of an ,oriental abode4 ,from the ,governor's ,house the western wall of the ,haram runs southward #aebh feet1 and is nearly hidden from view by the structures built against it4 ,seven streets approach the sacred inclosure from the west1 having at their termini as many gates1 most of which correspond in their location to the sites of the ancient portals of the ,temple4 ,attached to this wall1 near the ,gate es-,silsilah1 is the ,hall of the 8,turkish ,divan10 which is identical with the council-chamber of the ,jewish ,sanhedrim4 ,it is a square stone building1 with arched ceiling and flattened domes1 wearing the aspect of great age1 and without violence will endure for ages to come4 ,here1 in all probability1 the apostles were arraigned for trial1#aaj and here 8stood up ,gamaliel1 a doctor of the law1 had in reputation among all the people1 and advised the council touching these men40#aaa ,adjoining the building on the south is the 8,jews' ,place of ,wailing10 a spot no less remarkable for its antiquity than for the touching scenes which there transpire4 ,it is reached by a narrow lane running out of the ,jewish ,quarter1 and consists of a small quadrangular area #aab feet long1 thirty wide1 and is inclosed by common dwellings on the west and the ,haram wall on the east4 ,well paved and cleanly kept1 it is so secluded as to allow the worshipers to lament their departed national greatness undisturbed4 ,the chief attraction of the spot is the five courses of large stones1 bearing the well-known bevel1 and remaining in situ where they were placed thousands of years ago4 ,time has dealt gently with them1 and1 though slightly displaced by the shock of earthquakes1 and worn smooth by the kisses of pilgrims1 they are well preserved4 ,here1 as before an altar1 on each returning ,friday the descendants of ,abraham assemble to bewail their once mighty but now fallen nation4 ,proscribed by their ,moslem masters1 this is the nearest point of approach to which they are allowed to come1 and even for a boon so humble ,mohammedan cupidity demands an exorbitant sum4 ,unparalleled in their history1 seldom have a people been treated with such unmitigated cruelty as the ,jews4 ,from the time of ,adrian to the age of ,constantine they were expelled from ,jerusalem1 and it was only by the clemency of the latter emperor that they were permitted to behold their native city from the neighboring hills2 and it was by bribing the ,roman guard that they at length gained admission to ,jerusalem once a year1 on the anniversary of its capture by ,titus1 to weep over the ruins of their fallen ,temple4 ,though now suffered to dwell within the walls of the city1 it is instant death to a ,jew to cross the threshold of the sacred inclosure4 ,from the beginning of the twelfth century it has been their custom to linger around these ancient stones and make their complaint to ,jehovah4 ,illustration3 ,,jews' ,,place ,,of ,,wailing4 ,it was two o'clock on a lovely ,friday afternoon when1 for the first time1 ,i threaded the narrow streets leading to this mournful spot4 ,about seventy men and women of all ages were engaged in their devotions4 ,in their midst stood the high-priest1 whose tall and majestic form distinguished him from those around him1 and whose open and intelligent face was pale and sorrowful as he mingled his prayers and tears with a people whose ruined fortunes he was powerless to retrieve4 ,accustomed to see him1 attended by his two sons1 walking thoughtfully the streets of what was once the imperial city of his fathers1 ,i had become familiar with his noble bearing and with the calm expression of his ,jewish countenance2 but1 moved by the reflections of his own powerful mind1 and touched with sympathy by the scene before him1 he lifted up his voice and wept4 ,around him were groups of his people1 some of whom were standing1 some sitting1 some kneeling1 while others were lying prostrate upon the stone pavement4 ,here sat a group of ,jewish matrons1 whose black tresses time had whitened1 weeping as if broken-hearted2 there stood an old man1 leaning1 like the patriarch ,jacob1 upon his staff1 reciting1 with faltering voice1 his complaint before the ,lord4 ,nearer the wall were men in the prime of life1 absorbed in their recitations from the ,prophets2 while along the whole length of the wall1 with their sacred books resting against it1 were men and women of all ages1 reading1 weeping1 and ever and anon smiting their troubled breasts4 ,in the northeast corner of the inclosure1 half hidden by the pavement1 is one stone more sacred than the rest4 ,around it were gathered the rich and elegantly attired mothers and daughters of ,israel1 waiting to bow low and affectionately kiss the relic as a thing of love4 ,some1 with a copy of ,isaiah before them1 audibly read1 8,be not wroth very sore1 ,o ,lord1 neither remember iniquity forever2 behold1 see1 we beseech thee1 we are all thy people4 ,thy holy cities are a wilderness1 ,zion is a wilderness1 ,jerusalem a desolation4 ,our holy and beautiful house1 where our fathers praised thee1 is burnt up with fire1 and all our pleasant things are laid waste4 ,wilt thou refrain thyself for these things1 ,o ,lord8 wilt thou hold thy peace and afflict us very sore80#aab ,others1 reading from the ,psalms1 would passionately break forth1 8,o ,god1 the heathen have come into thine inheritance2 thy holy temple have they defiled2 they have laid ,jerusalem on heaps4 ,we are become a reproach to our neighbors1 a scorn and derision to them that are round about4 ,how long1 ,lord8 wilt thou be angry forever8 shall thy jealousy burn like fire80#aac ,it is the opinion of the ,jews that this portion of the wall belonged to the court of the ,temple1 and not to the ,temple itself2 but1 in conceding with them the great antiquity of these stones1 and that they remain intact1 we do not thereby affect our ,lord's prediction touching the destruction of ,jerusalem4 ,josephus informs us that such was the unevenness of ,mount ,moriah1 that in laying the foundation of the wall for the western court of the ,temple it was necessary to lay it far below the general surface of the ground1 which is evident from the fact that while the inside of the wall is only twelve feet high1 the outside is seventy feet high4#aad ,to this circumstance is due the preservation of this wall as it was originally laid1 and also to the fact that the ,romans1 beginning their work of destruction within the area1 first removed the upper layers1 throwing the broken fragments over the outside1 which1 accumulating at its base1 inhumed the lower courses1 and literally fulfilled the ,savior's words1 8,and shall lay thee even with the ground40#aae ,in every particular that fearful prediction was fulfilled4 ,the ,romans cast a trench about the devoted city1 keeping the inhabitants in on every side2 and such was the utter destruction which followed their capture of the city1 that1 in the words of the historian1 8there was nothing left to make those that came thither believe it had ever been inhabited40#aaf ,owing to the rapid descent of the ground in the direction of the southwest corner of the ,haram wall1 lower courses of stones are there exposed to view4 ,measuring thirty-one feet in length1 seven in width1 and five in height1 the chief cornerstone is no doubt identical with the one placed there by order of ,solomon1 and now marks the southwest angle of the area which inclosed his ,temple4 ,thirty-nine feet to the north is the foot of the ancient bridge which once spanned the ,tyropean ,valley4 ,viewed casually1 these stones appear to have been pushed out from their places by some violent concussion within1 but1 when examined with care1 they indicate the design of an architect1 and the occupancy of their original position4 ,consisting of three courses of huge stones1 projecting one over the other as they rise1 they form the segment of an arch4 ,with their external surface hewn to a regular curve1 they each measure from twenty to twenty-four feet long1 and from five to six high2 and extending along the wall about forty feet1 they spring therefrom nearly the same distance4 ,from the apparent width of the valley from this arch to the precipitous rocks on the eastern brow of ,mount ,zion1 this bridge was #cej feet long1 and consisted of five arches1 supported by four intervening piers4 ,illustration3 ,,solomon',s ,,bridge4 ,without giving us the date of its construction1 ,josephus speaks of this bridge as existing in his day1#aag and the colossal proportion of the remaining blocks1 together with the manner in which they are dressed1 evince their great age1 and also their ,jewish origin4 ,it is older than ,herod1 as it is mentioned in connection with ,pompey's siege of the ,holy ,city1 which occurred twenty years prior to the accession of the ,idumean4#aah ,it is not1 therefore1 unreasonable to suppose it as old as ,solomon1 whose wonderful works have ever been the admiration of mankind4 ,attended by a gorgeous retinue of princes and soldiers1 he often passed over it from his palace on ,zion to the ,temple of the ,highest on ,mount ,moriah2 and to this magnificent structure the sacred historian probably alludes1 who1 in describing the effect of ,solomon's works upon the mind of the ,queen of the ,south1 declares that when she beheld 8the ascent by which he went up unto the house of the ,lord1 there was no more spirit in her40#aai ,centuries later1 it was no doubt the way by which the ,redeemer frequently passed from the ,temple to the 8,upper ,city20 and when the day of retribution came1 and the hour of the destruction of ,jerusalem drew nigh1 the triumphant ,titus stood upon one of its remaining sections and addressed the infatuated ,jews1 appealing to the remnant to spare themselves from farther carnage by submitting to ,rome4 ,these mural examinations awakened a desire to stand1 if possible1 upon the very site of ,solomon's ,temple4 ,this1 however1 was both difficult and expensive4 ,for many centuries the inclosure1 together with the ,mosque of ,omar1 had been closed against all ,christians1 but1 thanks to the civilization of the ,west1 the fanaticism of the ,east has yielded to a superior power1 and many places hitherto inaccessible are now open to the ,christian traveler4 ,the ,temple area is an oblong quadrangle1 extending north and south #afjj feet1 and more than #ajjj east and west4 ,since the reign of ,herod the ,great it has been enlarged1 and now includes the space formerly occupied by the ,tower of ,antonia4 ,it is only on this supposition that its present dimensions can be made to correspond with the measurements of ,josephus1 who describes it to have been a square1#abj and such it is if the above-mentioned space is excluded4 ,if a line be drawn from the south side of the ,golden ,gate1 and at right angles to it1 to a point #aej feet north of the modern gate1 called ,bal el-,katann1 an area is left for the ,temple and its courts #ajah feet long and #ibf wide1 which1 in popular language1 would be called a square1 and to the eye presents such a figure4 ,on the space north of this imaginary line stood the famous ,tower of ,antonia1 constructed by ,judas ,maccabeus1 or by some other member of the ,asmonean family1 and which1 at a subsequent period1 was enlarged and rendered exceedingly grand by ,herod the ,great1 who called it ,antonia1 in honor of ,anthony1 his benefactor4 ,quadrangular in form1 it had a tower at each angle1 three of which had an elevation of #hg feet each1 while the one at the southeast corner rose to the height of #abb feet1 uniting in this structure the strength of a fortress with the splendor of a palace4 ,the interior was adorned with baths1 courts1 and porticoes4 ,in the very centre of the inclosure was an open space for encampments1 from which extended elegant passage-ways1 connecting the tower with the colonnades of the ,temple4 ,from a rock eighty feet high1 situated in the northwest corner1 rose the ,acropolis1 seventy feet higher1 which was incased with polished stones4 ,as this was the fortress of the ,temple1 here was stationed the military guard2 and1 during the jurisdiction of the ,romans1 it was the seat of public justice4 ,on the exterior of the present wall are two arches1 now walled up1 where the ,scala ,santa1 or ,pilate's ,staircase1 which led to his judgment-hall1 formerly stood4 ,regarding it with religious reverence1 ,constantine removed it to ,rome1 where it was placed in the ,basilica of ,st4 ,john ,lateran2 and1 believing that it was once pressed by the ,savior's feet1 the pious ,catholic now ascends it upon his knees4 ,a few paces to the west of these arches1 and spanning the ,via ,dolorosa1 is the ,ecce ,homo arch1 traditionally marking the spot where ,pilate1 having brought forth our ,lord1 exclaimed1 8,behold the man60#aba ,yielding to the conquering arms of ,titus1 the ,tower of ,antonia was taken by the ,romans1 who1 razing it to its foundation1 left it a mass of ruins4 ,cutting away the ,acropolis rock1 they left but a projecting fragment1 now the site of the ,pasha's ,palace4 ,removing the elegant courts and porticoes to plant their engines of war against the ,temple1 they cleared an area #ejj feet long and #ajjj wide1 which is now in part a scarped rock1 and the rest is dotted with patches of grass4 ,inhumed beneath the ruins lay the deep fosse1 the foundation of the northeast tower1 and the base of the loftier tower at the southeast angle1 all of which remain to our own day1 pointing to ,antonia as one of the grandest of human structures4 ,equally superstitious with the ,latins and ,greeks1 the ,moslems have many shrines within the ,temple area consecrated either to the memory of their great ,prophet1 or to that of some eminent saint4 ,near a graceful minaret1 which rises from the scarped rock1 is a small dome1 marking the spot where ,solomon1 after the completion of the ,temple1 stood and prayed4 ,along the western side of the ,haran are cloisters1 with square pillars and pointed arches1 devoted to meditation and prayer1 and to the accommodation of dervishes1 eunuchs1 and serpent-charmers4 ,in a small room beneath one of the cloisters is the legendary iron ring to which ,mohammed tied his ,alborak on the night of his ascension4 ,in the centre of the oblong area within the walls is a raised platform fifteen feet high1 #eej long north and south1 and #dej wide east and west4 ,it is paved with ,palestine marble1 and reached by eight flights of stone steps1 spanned by light ,saracenic arches4 ,ascending the platform by the northern steps1 we lingered for a moment to enjoy a scene of extraordinary beauty4 ,on either side rose massive walls1 with parapet and tower2 beneath the platform1 and extending to the farthest verge of the inclosure1 were fields of grass adorned with flowers2 decked in all their vernal beauty were sombre olives1 lofty palms1 and graceful acacias1 and near them were marble fountains sparkling in the morning light2 beneath the trees white-veiled women reclined1 and turbaned ,turks moved softly through the foliage2 around the platform rose airy arches2 on it stood elegant pulpits1 carved niches for prayer1 and miniature cupolas of faultless symmetry2 while from the very centre rose the ,mosque of ,omar1 enameled with tiles of intricate patterns and of variant hues1 reflecting the colors of the rainbow1 and surmounted with that dome of domes1 resplendent with the early light4 ,secluded from the outer world1 peace reigned within1 and no sound was heard save the solitary call of the muezzin from the balcony of a neighboring minaret4 ,among the minor objects of interest within the ,haram is the ,kubbet es-,silsilah8the ,dome of the ,chain40 ,situated twenty feet east from the great mosque1 it is a small fane of rare beauty4 ,from seventeen slender marble columns spring semicircular arches1 supporting a dome of great elegance1 which is adorned with porcelain of different colors and curious devices4 ,according to the legend1 here ,mohammed obtained his first view of the enchanting damsels of ,paradise1 and hither the faithful now resort to meditate on love4 ,illustration3 ,,mount ,,moriah1 ,,with ,a ,,view ,,of ,,the ,,mosque ,,of ,,omar4 ,but the great attraction within the ,temple area is the 8,mosque of ,omar0the pride of the ,mohammedan1 the contempt of the ,jew1 and the grief of the ,christian4 ,though bearing the name of the celebrated ,khalif ,omar1 who captured ,jerusalem in #fcf ,a4,d41 yet some ,arabian writers suggest the name of ,khalif ,abd-el-,melek ,ibn ,marwan as the more probable founder of the present mosque4 ,but so confused are the accounts of historians1 and so contradictory are the prevailing traditions touching its origin1 that it is difficult to reach a correct conclusion on the subject4 ,it is stated1 however1 by the best authorities1 that when ,jerusalem capitulated to the arms of ,omar1 the khalif1 on entering the city1 refused to pray in the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre1 but inquired for the site of ,solomon's ,temple4 ,led by the venerable patriarch ,sophronius to the sacred rock which forms the summit ridge of ,moriah1 ,omar1 with his own hands1 removed the filth which ,moslem contempt for the ,jew had heaped upon it1 and over it he ordered the erection of a mosque at once worthy the wisdom of ,solomon and the conquests of ,mohammed4 ,in the estimation of devout ,moslems1 this mosque is next in sacredness to the mosques of ,mecca and ,medina1 and1 with the exception of a brief interval1 it has remained in their possession since its construction4 ,in #ajii ,a4,d4 the ,holy ,city yielded to the triumphant arms of the ,crusaders1 whose heroic faith was only excelled by their unwavering courage4 ,overpowered by their ,christian conquerors1 the followers of the ,prophet retreated within their sacred edifice1 from which they were at length driven with terrible slaughter4 ,some1 creeping to the summit of the dome1 and clinging to its gilded spire1 were pierced with arrows2 others1 leaping into the deep cisterns beneath the mosque1 were drowned or sabred in their attempt to escape2 while so great was the number slain1 that the whole area flowed with blood ankle deep4#abb ,having removed the dead1 and cleansed the mosque from the stench and stains of the slaughtered1 the ,crusaders consecrated it to ,christ4 ,within they erected a choir and an altar1 and on the spire which surmounts the dome they substituted the ,cross for the ,crescent4 ,receiving authority from the sovereign pontiff1 they established a regular chapter of canons1 endowed with all the immunities belonging to the ,catholics of the ,west1 and calling the holy house1 by way of excellence1 ,templum ,domini1 they organized a special guard for its protection1 to whom they gave the name of ,knights ,templars4 ,but in less than a century thereafter the ,mosque of ,omar reverted to its former masters1 and1 true to his religious faith1 the proud ,saladin1 having driven the ,crusaders from the city1 transferred the mosque from ,christ to ,mohammed4 ,the golden cross gave place to the gilded crescent2 the altar and choir were removed2 the edifice was cleansed with rose-water brought for the purpose from ,damascus2 and from its lofty dome the muezzin announced the hour for prayer1 while on his royal mat1 spread beneath that dome1 ,saladin performed his devotions4#abc ,as the ,egyptian conqueror left it we now behold it4 ,consisting of three sectionsthe walls1 the drum1 and the domethe lower story is a true octagon1 forty-six feet high and #agj in diameter4 ,penetrated by fifty-six pointed windows of the ,tudor style1 the light passes through stained glass1 rivaling in the beauty and brilliancy of its colors that of the famous cathedral windows of ,central ,italy4 ,from this section rises the drum1 thirty-four feet high1 pierced by sixteen windows1 and on which rests the dome1 rising seventy feet higher1 and having a diameter of sixty feet4 ,a graceful spire surmounts the dome1 supporting a gilded crescent4 ,the exterior of the first and second sections is incased with marbles of different hues and with porcelain tiles of intricate patterns1 while that of the dome is covered with lead4 ,corresponding in position to the four cardinal points are as many doorways1 three of which have inclosed marble porches1 and the fourth has a portico formed of slender columns1 with a roof of the same material4 ,two corridors encircle the interior of this noble edifice4 ,one1 thirteen feet wide1 is formed of eight massive piers and sixteen ,corinthian columns1 connected at the top by a horizontal architrave2 the other1 thirty feet wide1 is formed of twelve columns and four inner piers1 from which spring the arches that support the dome4 ,these columns are polished porphyry of a purple hue1 and are crowned with richly gilded capitals4 ,the walls and ceiling are covered with gilt stucco1 on which are traced1 in the graceful curves and lines of the ,arabic characters1 quotations from the ,koran4 ,rising #aej feet from the marble pavement1 the interior of the dome is no less impressive than the exterior is imposing2 and though less in altitude than ,st4 ,peter's at ,rome1 it is more symmetrical1 and from the dimness of the light the eye wearies in searching for its loftier portions4 ,but the great attraction within the mosque is the celebrated rock called by the ,arabs es-,sukhrah4 ,situated directly beneath the dome1 it is unquestionably the summit ridge of ,mount ,moriah1 and consists of a naked limestone rock of a grayish color1 sixty feet long1 fifty-five wide1 and rises five feet above the surrounding floor4 ,over it1 suspended from the piers1 is the war-banner of ,omar1 made of the richest crimson silk2 around it is an iron railing1 with arrow-headed points tipped with gilt1 and on it stand metallic candlesticks resembling ,syrian lilies4 ,the fertile imagination of the ,asiatic has invested this rock with peculiar sanctity4 ,according to a ,mohammedan legend1 it descended from heaven when the spirit of prophecy was withdrawn from earth1 and attempted to return to its native quarry when the ,prophet ascended to glory1 but was only restrained by the powerful arm of ,gabriel4 ,refusing to touch the earth again1 it remains suspended in the air seven feet above the top of ,mount ,moriah6 ,arrogant in their spirit as they are legendary in their taste1 the ,moslems believe that all the water on the earth flows from beneath this rock2 and that in one of its unvisited caves are still preserved the armor of ,mohammed1 the saddle of his favorite beast1 the scales for weighing the souls of men at the last judgment1 the birds of ,solomon1 the pomegranates of ,david1 and a silver urn which was thrown from its pedestal by ,gabriel's wing on the ever-memorable night of the ,prophet's ascension4 ,reached by a flight of stone steps is the 8,noble ,cave10 excavated in the heart of the rock1 which is of irregular shape1 eight feet high and sixty in circumference4 ,to deceive the unwary1 and sustain the story that the rock is suspended in the air1 a plastered wall incloses the sides of the vault1 which1 on being struck1 emits a hollow sound1 indicating a vacant space beyond4 ,in the centre of the floor is a marble star1 said to cover the mouth of ,hades4 ,it is more probably the entrance to that great cavern beneath the city1 which1 according to tradition1 extends to this point4 ,rejecting the idle tales of a false faith1 the es-,sukhrah has a history replete with interest to every ,christian4 ,forming the ridge of ,mount ,moriah1 here ,abraham offered his son2#abd here stood the destroying angel when about to smite ,jerusalem for the offense of an ambitious king2#abe here was the threshing-floor of ,ornan1 which ,david purchased to offer thereon a sacrifice to stay the hand of the avenging messenger2#abf and on it rested the altar of burnt-offerings in the first and second temples4#abg ,viewed in this light1 the 8,noble ,cave0 was no doubt the cess-pool of the altar of burnt-offerings1 into which the immense quantity of sacrificial blood was conveyed by the drain that encompassed the altar4 ,from the southern portal of the ,mosque of ,omar a paved pathway leads to the ,mosque of ,el-,aksa1 lined on either side with olives1 palms1 and acacias4 ,near this avenue is the elegant ,pulpit of ,david1 from which prayers are offered for the health of the ,sultan and the triumph of his arms4 ,extending a distance of #cej feet1 the path terminates at the porch of ,el-,aksa4 ,standing near the southwest corner of the ,temple area1 and close to the southern wall1 this mosque covers an area of #ej1jjj square feet4 ,measuring #bhj feet long and #ahj wide1 its aisles and nave are forty-eight feet high1 and its dome #acj4 ,though in its general appearance the architecture is a compound of the ,gothic and the ,saracenic1 yet1 owing to the frequent alterations and numerous additions of the mosque1 it is difficult to assign it a classification4 ,facing the north1 the imposing porch extends the entire breadth of the building1 and is divided into seven sections by arches supported by slender columns4 ,it is paved with marble1 and is reached by eight steps worn smooth by the feet of twelve centuries4 ,the faade is penetrated by seven portals opening into the interior1 which consists of a grand nave1 three aisles on either side1 and a transept surmounted with a noble dome4 ,the aisles and nave are formed by forty-five marble columns1 resembling the imposing colonnades in the magnificent basilicas of ,santa ,maria ,maggiore and ,san ,paolo fuori le ,mura in ,rome4 ,springing from these columns are arches connecting aisle with aisle1 and supporting the roof and dome4 ,the pavement1 now of stone1 was once adorned with beautiful mosaics1 the remaining fragments attesting the pristine grandeur of this ancient temple of ,christian worship4 ,beneath the dome is the elaborately-carved ,pulpit of ,saladin1 and near it is the gallery for the singers4 ,deriving their name from the daughter of the ,prophet1 the ,fatimites ordered a large section of the mosque to be partitioned off and appropriated for the devotions of women4 ,in the western end of the transept are two polished marble columns standing ten inches apart1 and designedly arranged to discover the faith of him who essayed to pass between them2 no one1 according to the legend1 but a true believer in the ,koran could hope for success4 ,once regarded as an infallible test1 the charm1 however1 is now broken1 as many a ,christian has succeeded in the attempt4 ,within this mosque is a fountain called the 8,well of the ,leaf10 receiving its name from the circumstance that centuries ago1 one of the faithful1 having descended to the bottom to recover a lost bucket1 unexpectedly found a door opening into the delightful gardens of ,paradise1 into which he walked1 and1 plucking a leaf from one of its fair trees1 returned1 bearing with him the celestial memento1 which proved its heavenly origin and nature by retaining its freshness4 ,with the ever-changing fortunes of the ,holy ,city1 the ,mosque of ,el-,aksa has passed from master to master4 ,originally a ,christian basilica1 built by order of the ,emperor ,justinian in the sixth century1 and by him dedicated to 8,my ,lady10 the ,virgin ,mary1 a hundred years thereafter it was converted into a temple of ,moslem worship4 ,four and a half centuries later1 ,tancred and his brave knights drove out the ,arabians1 and reconsecrated the ,church of ,justinian to the ,blessed ,virgin4 ,in #aaai ,a4,d4 ,baldwin ,,ii4 gave it to his followers1 whom he was pleased to call 8the poor fellow-soldiers of ,jesus ,christ10 and for whose accommodation he erected on its eastern side a dormitory1 refectory1 and infirmary4 ,a gift so humble was the beginning of the wealth1 power1 and glory of the ,knights ,templars1 whose mystic kingdom afterward extended to the farthest limits of ,christendom1 and who received the benedictions of pontiffs1 the homage of kings1 and the donations of the pious4 ,beneath the green sod in front of the venerable basilica were interred1 in the year of our ,lord #aagj1 the four knights who1 at the instigation of ,henry ,,ii41 assassinated ,thomas ,becket in the ancient cathedral of ,canterbury4 ,remaining in the possession of the ,crusaders for eighty-eight years1 in #aahg ,a4,d4 ,saladin marched against ,jerusalem1 captured the city1 put the ,templars to the sword1 and reopened the portals of the mosque to the children of the ,prophet4#abh ,whatever pleasure is experienced in recalling the ever-shifting fortunes of ,moslem and ,christian1 and in reciting the legends of the one and the traditions of the other1 the traveler turns away from scenes and memories so romantic to explore with deeper interest the works of ,solomon4 ,thirty feet to the east from the ,mosque of ,el-,aksa is the entrance to a subterranean passage-way4 ,a flight of stone steps leads down to a broad and well-made avenue #bei feet long1 forty-two wide1 thirty high1 and having a gentle descent of #bjj feet4 ,extending through the centre are two rows of monolithic columns1 connected by arches supporting the ceiling1 which is composed of flattened domes4 ,these domes are formed of large blocks of limestone1 and each one has a circular keystone six feet in diametera style of architecture nowhere else to be found1 except in some of the ancient tombs beyond the city1 indicating a contemporaneous age4 ,guided by the light of our wax tapers1 we advanced a distance of #bei feet to a flight of nine steps leading down into an entrance-hall fifty feet long and forty-two wide4 ,in the very centre stands a massive column twenty-one feet high and six in diameter1 consisting of a single block of limestone1 including a foliated capital1 on which is carved a palm-branch4 ,from this central pier1 and from pilasters on the sides of the hall1 spring arches on which rests a vaulted ceiling of extraordinary workmanship4 ,and corresponding1 both in its size and grandeur1 is the original gateway in the south wall of the city1 the exterior of which is seen in part where the city wall joins that of the ,haram4 ,having a breadth of forty-two feet1 it is divided in the centre by a rectangular pier eight feet broad1 and1 extending inward twelve feet1 has a pillar-shaped termination4 ,both the pier and jambs of the gateway are constructed of bevel stones of great size and well finished4 ,this is evidently one of the approaches to the ancient city1 and no doubt up through this colonnaded avenue ,christ and his disciples often passed to the ,house of the ,lord4 ,in some lateral vault leading from this covered way1 the ,jews believe the treasures and furniture of their ,temple are now concealed2 and so prevalent is this opinion1 that a breach has already been made in the wall to discover the place of concealment4 ,illustration3 ,,solomon',s ,,subterranean ,,passage-,,way4 ,standing in the southeast corner of the ,temple area is the ,mosque of ,issa 7,jesus74 ,it is a small1 dome-like building1 containing a large marble basin1 not unlike in form a sarcophagus1 called by some the 8,cradle of ,jesus10 by others the font in which the infant ,savior was washed previous to his presentation in the ,temple4 ,through this chamber is the true and easy entrance to the great substructions of ,solomon's day2 but1 hoping to deter us from exploring them1 the guide led us to an opening in the area1 down which we were compelled to leap more than ten feet4 ,nothing daunted1 each in turn made the leap1 and turning to the right1 we stood beneath those grand vaults1 unequaled in strength and grandeur by any thing of the kind either in ,greece or ,rome4 ,originally the summit of ,mount ,moriah naturally and rapidly declined from the great rock which forms the ridge toward the southeast1 leaving a narrow and uneven surface4 ,to elevate the surface of the hill to a common level1 ,solomon constructed vaults supported by piers4#abi ,standing ten feet apart1 and extending east and west #cai feet1 and north and south #bej feet1 are fifteen rows of massive columns1 composed of beveled stones five feet square1 and connected by semicircular arches1 on which rest the vaulted ceiling1 five feet thick1 supporting the pavement above4 ,these piers are from ten to thirty feet high1 according to the elevation and depression of the ground1 and on some of them has been chiseled a mason's compasses1 opened at an angle of forty-five degrees1 but whether ancient or modern the silent sign of the honorable craft gives no response4 ,the eastern wall of these substructions is the eastern wall of the ,haram inclosure1 the blocks of which are of the same material and of similar finish with those seen from without4 ,through openings in an arched gateway1 now closed1 the ,valley of ,jehoshaphat is distinctly seen4 ,through the thick vaults above some olive-trees have forced their powerful roots1 which have taken hold on the soil below1 uniting1 by ligaments of life1 the upper and lower surfaces1 while the more slender roots hang like graceful pendents from the ceiling4 ,running along the wall in the western aisle is a large pipe1 of similar material to ,solomon's aqueduct1 which no doubt formerly served as a waste-pipe to carry off the refuse water from the ,temple2 and near it is an oval well1 twenty feet in diameter4 ,in the south corner of this aisle is a triple gate of curious workmanship1 consisting of an arched central doorway and two lateral ones1 so arranged as to form an obtuse angle4 ,in the centre is an octagonal column two and a half feet in diameter1 from which spring the arches of the side gateways4 ,though well preserved1 this beautiful gate is now walled up4 ,in the palmy days of ,jerusalem it opened to the villages on the south of the city1 and there is still a gradual ascent to the open area above1 up which the victims were driven to the ,temple for sacrifice4 ,whether we consider the grandeur of these works or the wealth expended in their construction1 they reflect alike the wisdom and glory of ,solomon4 ,the original declination of the hillthe measurements of the ,temple area as given by ,josephusthe size of the stones of which they are constructed1 and the manner in which they are dressed1 together with the absence of any information that either ,herod or any of his successors ever touched the foundations of the sacred inclosure1 suggest that these substructions are coeval with the ,holy ,house4 ,returning to the surface of the area1 we turned to the northwest to explore the great lake beneath the ,mosque of ,omar4 ,any one who for a moment has reflected upon the quantity of water requisite for the frequent ablutions of the priests1 and for the other demands of the ,temple service1 must have concluded that artificial means were employed to meet the demand4 ,ever fruitful in inventions1 the genius of ,solomon was equal to the emergency1 and to the aid of nature he brought the mechanical art of his day4 ,near the mosque there is an aperture resembling the mouth of a well1 down which an inclined plane leads to a flight of forty-four stone steps cut in the living rock4 ,descending1 we found an excavation in the solid limestone rock forty-two feet deep1 #gcf in circumference1 and capable of holding #b1jjj1jjj gallons4 ,the form of the cavern is irregular1 and the rudely-arched roof is supported by large piers1 which were designedly left at the time of the excavation4 ,these columns are arranged to afford the greatest support1 without regard to regularity or beauty1 and an attempt had been made to arch the intervening rock1 but the work is so crudely done as to give it a craggy appearance4 ,both the arches and upper portions of the pillars were formerly incased with brass1 but the metallic covering has been removed by the ,vandal captors of the city4 ,formerly there were eight apertures in the pavement above through which the water was drawn up2 but only one remains open1 admitting the light to the shades below4 ,more than three feet of water now covers the entire bottom1 which is perfectly clear and of a sweetish taste4 ,though at present the lake is partially supplied with rain-water1 which flows through a small tank1 from the ,mosque of ,el-,aksa1 yet originally the water was brought from ,solomon's ,pools at ,etham1 seven miles to the south of ,jerusalem1 and the ancient aqueduct through which it flowed can now be traced to the western side of the reservoir4 ,standing in such a cavern1 where the light and darkness alternately chase each other1 where no sound is heard save the measured tramp of pilgrim feet on the marble floor above1 and where ,history silently but triumphantly points to her works in confirmation of her story1 the mind is filled with admiration for the past4 ,of all the works of ,solomon1 there is nothing remaining which so impressively reflects his wonderful intellect1 and so truly conveys to the mind an idea of his unbounded resources as this lake4 ,of its antiquity there can be no doubt2 as to its design there can be no dispute2 and of the glory it reflects upon the memory of its founder there can be no diversity of opinion4 ,it was seen and described by ,aristeas in the century preceding ,christ1 and it is subsequently mentioned by the ,mishna1 by ,tacitus1 and the ,jerusalem ,itinerary1 and it now invites the modern traveler to its cavernous depths to drink of its crystal water1 and thereby confirm those traditions which the lapse of time had transformed into fables4#acj ,though permitted to explore the ,temple area the second time1 yet ,i reluctantly left a spot where of old ,god had appeared to his people1 and where the ,redeemer often taught as one having authority4 ,and where1 on earth1 have occurred events of greater grandeur and of more powerful influence8 ,within an area of less than forty acres the history of our religion may be said to have occurred1 and there all that is now real in our faith was once foreshadowed by the most costly and imposing symbols2 and to-day ,moriah bears testimony no less to the fulfillment of the prophetic judgments demanded against her than to the veracity of her historians4 ,in less than forty years after the ,savior's prediction of the destruction of the ,temple1 his words were fulfilled by ,titus1 who left the holy fane a mass of scorched and smoking ruins2 and now spanning the ,appian ,way in ancient ,rome1 the ,arch of ,titus remains the monument of his terrible work4 ,after a period of desolation lasting seventy years1 the ,emperor ,adrian rebuilt ,jerusalem1 calling it lia ,capitolinathe former after the family name of the emperor1 and the latter in honor of ,jupiter ,capitolinus4 ,plowing up the surface of the area1 he erected on the site of the ,jewish ,temple one to ,jupiter1 which he adorned with the colossal statue of himself1 placing the equestrian one on the very site of the 8,holy of ,holies40 ,nearly two and a half centuries later the ,jews were permitted1 by ,julian the ,apostate1 to rebuild their ,holy ,house1 but they were deterred in the attempt by flames of fire bursting suddenly out from the earth upon them1 and by other manifestations of the divine displeasure4 ,for more than #aej years subsequently nothing is recorded of the ,temple area till the middle of the sixth century1 when the ,emperor ,justinian ordered the erection thereon of his magnificent church to the ,virgin ,mary1 which1 in #fcf ,a4,d41 ,omar converted into the ,mosque of ,el-,aksa1 and upon the site of ,solomon's ,temple and of the ,fane of ,jupiter he reared the famous mosque which now bears his name4 ,subject to the sway of the ,false ,prophet for #dfc years1 it was rescued from the grasp of the ,moslems by the brave ,crusaders1 who converted the mosques into ,christian churches1 and who for eighty years worshiped ,christ where ,jupiter and ,mohammed had been adored4 ,yielding to the victorious arms of its earlier captors1 ,saladin retook ,jerusalem in #aahi ,a4,d41 and the ,crescent was again in the ascendant on ,mount ,moriah1 where it remains the symbol of ,mohammedan power and glory1 to give place at no distant day to the ,cross of a world's ,redeemer4#aca ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,valley of the ,dead4 ,tombs of the ,judges4 ,of ,el-,messahney4 ,of the ,kings4 ,valley of the ,kidron4 ,pillar of ,absalom4 ,traditional ,tombs4 ,jews' ,cemetery4 ,funeral ,procession4 ,mount of ,offense4 ,virgin's ,fountain4 ,gardens of ,siloam4 ,bridal ,party4 ,pool of ,siloam4 ,of ,en-,rogel4 ,vale of ,hinnom4 ,burning of ,children4 ,valley of ,slaughter4 ,potters' ,field4 ,solomon's ,coronation4 ,pools of ,gihon4 ,pool of ,hezekiah4 ,supply of ,water4 ,,from time immemorial1 nations have interred their dead with extraordinary care4 ,along the dividing line separating the ,libyan ,desert from the fertile plains of the ,nile1 the ,egyptians constructed tombs of marble and porphyry1 and reared the stupendous pyramids of ,ghizeh1 ,abooseer1 and ,sakkara1 for mausoleums for their renowned kings4 ,beside their noblest highways the ,greeks and ,romans placed the sepulchres and funeral pillars of their distinguished citizens4 ,and the ,christian cemeteries of our own day are as remarkable for the grandeur of their cenotaphs as for the beauty of their situation4 ,not less sensibly affected by a passion so tender1 the ,jews prepared the final resting-place of their beloved dead with sincere affection4 ,with them it became a religious pride to beautify the sepulchres of their ancestors1 and carefully preserve them from age to age4 ,though like other nations in these particulars1 it is a fact no less singular than true that not a line has ever been found on or in any of the ancient tombs in ,palestine2#acb hence their identification is now1 as it ever has been1 by tradition rather than by inscription and epitaph4 ,it is not therefore strange that1 with few exceptions1 the sepulchres of kings and prophets are either entirely unknown1 or are identified by mere conjecture4 ,like other works of art1 ,jewish tombs advanced from a crude beginning to a state of artistic elegance4 ,originally they were natural excavations in the rocks1 as is the ,cave of ,machpelah2#acc but in the advancement of national refinement they were adorned with all that art could invent and wealth procure1#acd as are the ,sepulchres of the ,kings4 ,with slight variation in the details1 there is a similarity of construction in those of the latter class4 ,usually a chamber was excavated in the living rock below the surface1 in the sides of which receptacles were prepared large enough to receive a human form1 and arranged in tiers with much regularity2 when these were occupied1 a door was cut in the perpendicular rock1 and other chambers were adjoined either on the sides1 in the rear1 or below4 ,selected alike for its seclusion and its rocky sides1 the ,valley of ,jehoshaphat is a vast cemetery4 ,at its head are located the 8,tombs of the ,judges40 ,though their origin is involved in mystery1 they are generally supposed to have contained the remains of the members of the ,jewish ,sanhedrim1 and the supposition is confirmed by the seventy niches within them1 coinciding with the number of members composing that venerable tribunal4 ,excavated in the side of a low rock1 the entrance is reached by a descending path4 ,the exterior is tastefully ornamented with a pediment resting on plain but handsome mouldings1 adorned with tracery of leaves and flowers1 and with a blazing torch in the centre and one at either end4 ,over the faade a few olives bend down their branches droopingly1 and before it are the accumulated mounds of many centuries4 ,descending into the vestibule1 which is thirteen feet long and nine wide1 we passed through a richly moulded doorway into an ante-chamber eight feet high1 twenty long1 and nineteen wide4 ,on the sides of the vault are thirteen loculi1 or receptacles for the dead4 ,in the southern wall a door opens to another chamber eight feet square1 having in its sides nine arched recesses4 ,in the east wall a second door leads to a similar vault1 from which a flight of steps descends to chambers below4 ,silence and darkness now reign supreme in these mansions of the dead1 and of all that was once human not a bone remains4 ,illustration3 ,,tombs ,,of ,,the ,,judges4 ,less than two miles to the northeast are the 8,tombs of el-,messahney10 discovered by our distinguished countryman of ,joppa4#ace ,around them are the remains of what was once a large town1 such as hewn stones and broken columns4 ,the rock in front of the tomb has been beveled in imitation of ,jewish masonry4 ,formerly an imposing entablature surmounted an open porch1 but only a portion of it remains4 ,the entrance is through a large doorway spanned by a round arch1 and the spacious chamber within differs from all others in ,palestine by having a window4 ,of the seventeen recesses which enter the wall endwise1 there is one nobler than the rest and twice as large4 ,here1 no doubt1 the lifeless form of some distinguished person lay in state1 under the light of the window1 till his successor in office became his successor to the tomb4 ,half a mile to the north from the ,damascus ,gate1 and sixty yards to the right of the ,nablous road1 are the 8,tombs of the ,kings40 ,in the western side of a sunken court hewn in the rock1 twenty feet deep and ninety square1 is a grand portico fifteen feet high1 thirty-nine wide1 and seventeen deep4 ,formerly this portal was decorated with two columns and as many pilasters1 which1 however1 are now gone1 except a fragment of one of the capitals depending from the architrave4 ,over the entrance was a heavy cornice and frieze1 adorned with clusters of grapes and wreaths of flowers1 alternating over a continuous garland of fruit and foliage1 extending down the sides to the ground4 ,but time and plunderers have defaced this elegant faade1 leaving it a wreck of former grandeur4 ,a solitary palm now rears its graceful form near the spot1 and ferns grow out of the cracked face and sides of the portal1 covering the broken entablature4 ,illustration3 ,,tombs ,,of ,,the ,,kings4 ,entering the portico and turning to the right1 we found the entrance to the sepulchre to be at once peculiar and complicated4 ,judging from what remains1 the doorway was excavated below the floor of the vestibule1 and was approached by a covered passage-way tunneled through the solid rock4 ,at the commencement of this subterranean way there was a trap-door which was secretly covered with a slab4 ,to secure greater safety against those who would sacrilegiously disturb the repose of the dead1 there was beneath this trap-door a deep pit so located that none save the initiated1 and they only with the greatest caution1 could land upon its brink as they stepped upon it4 ,the door of the tomb in turn was guarded with the utmost secrecy4 ,it consisted of a heavy circular slab which was made to run in a groove4 ,the groove inclined upward1 and the slab could only be turned by means of a lever4 ,to add to the difficulty of turning the door1 both the groove and the slab were nearly concealed by the side of the passage-way1 and to the left of the end of the passage-way there was a smaller slab sliding in another groove1 which1 running at right angles with the former1 served as a bolt1 and1 when pushed in1 was received into an aperture cut in the stone door1 not only rendering the door immovable1 but defying all effort to open it except by the initiated4 ,though to all appearance these precautions were sufficient to protect this mansion of the dead from the hand of the despoiler1 yet1 to render the repose of the departed doubly sure1 there was an inner door of great weight1 so arranged as to fit exactly in the deeply-recessed doorway1 and so hung on pivots that it yielded to the slightest pressure from without1 while it immediately fell back to its place as soon as the pressure was withdrawn1 sealing the doom of the unfortunate one who had entered1 as it fitted so exactly in its place that it was impossible to open it again from the inside4 ,the peculiar construction of the door and its rolling in a groove explains the anxious inquiry of the ,marys1 8,who shall roll us away the stone from the door of the sepulchre80 ,creeping through the low entrance1 we lit our candles1 and found the interior to consist of five chambers1 connected by narrow aisles1 and in the sides of the chambers are arched recesses for the dead4 ,the largest of these chambers is nineteen feet square4 ,its walls are of solid rock1 hewn smooth4 ,on its south side are two low doorways which lead to as many chambers1 and on the north side a third doorway opens to another vault1 which is strewn with fragments of elegantly sculptured marble4 ,here was found that magnificent lid of a sarcophagus which is at present in the ,louvre in ,paris1 where it bears the name of 8,david's ,tomb40 ,beneath these vaults are two others1 reached by an inclined plane and a flight of stone steps4 ,being more concealed than the rest1 and containing the most elegant sarcophagi1 they were designed1 no doubt1 for the final repose of the most distinguished persons4 ,but1 despite such extraordinary precautions1 these tombs have been plundered1 the dust of the dead scattered1 the sarcophagi broken1 and the treasures they contained extracted4 ,though by common consent they are called the 8,tombs of the ,kings10 yet there are no sepulchres beyond the walls of ,jerusalem as to the origin and founder of which there is such a variety of opinions4 ,on these points the tombs themselves are dumb1 as they contain neither device nor inscription2 and1 with one or two ambiguous exceptions1 history is likewise silent4 ,m4 de ,sauley declares them to be the 8,tombs of the ,kings of ,judah20 ,mr4 ,ferguson pronounces their 8architecture to be later than the reign of ,constantine20 ,mr4 ,williams asserts them to be the 8sepulchral monument of ,herod the ,great20 ,dr4 ,schultz identifies them as the 8,royal ,caverns10 mentioned by ,josephus as being on a line with the ,agrippian ,wall2 ,dr4 ,robinson ascribes them to ,helena1 the widow of ,king ,monobazus1 of ,adiabene1 who1 with her son ,izates1 having espoused the ,jewish faith1 settled in ,jerusalem in the reign of ,claudius ,csar1 and her son1 dying in the ,holy ,city1 was here interred2#acf while ,dr4 ,thompson and ,dr4 ,barclay regard them as having been constructed by the ,asmonean kings4 ,the latter conclusion is most in harmony with the facts of sacred and profane history4 ,the kings of ,judah were interred on ,mount ,zion2 ,herod the ,great was entombed at ,herodium1 where there are other vaults for his descendants2 other caverns along the ,agrippian ,wall correspond in location with the words of ,josephus better than these2 and the thirty loculi within this mausoleum are twenty-eight too many for ,helena and her son ,izates4 ,passing down the ,valley of ,jehoshaphat to the northeast corner of the city wall1 we entered the large olive-groves which cover the bed of the valley and the sides of the adjacent hills4 ,attended by their ,nubian slaves1 the women and children of ,jerusalem spent the hours of the day here1 reclining beneath these trees4 ,opposite ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate is the traditional rock where ,stephen was stoned to death4 ,above it1 to the north1 is the supposed site of ,calvary4 ,below it1 to the east1 is the stone bridge which spans the ,kidron4 ,it is #adj feet long1 and seventeen high from the bottom of the vale to the top of the arch4 ,it is firmly built1 and as it has stood for thousands of years1 it will endure for ages to come1 if not destroyed by violence4 ,the ,brook ,kidron is a winter torrent1 or the accumulation of streamlets from the hill-sides1 formed by the rains of winter4 ,though not seen in the dry season1 the stream continues to flow several feet below the surface of small loose stones1 sending up distinctly a low murmuring sound4 ,a thousand feet below the bridge is 8,absalom's ,pillar40 ,it is of limestone1 cut out of the rock1 and detached from the base of ,olivet by a path excavated in three of its sides4 ,it consists of a square platform1 reached by a flight of steps2 a basement of solid rock twenty-four feet square1 a square attic seven feet high1 and a circular attic1 surmounted with an inverted funnel-shaped dome1 the point spreading out like an opening flower4 ,though its apparent altitude is less than fifty feet1 yet1 owing to the accumulation of stones around its base1 its actual height is not ascertainable4 ,the exterior of the basement is ornamented with columns and pilasters1 on the ,ionic capitals of which rests a ,doric architrave4 ,above the first entablature are two courses of large1 well-dressed stones1 on which is traced a small cornice1 and on the dome above is a cornice resembling rope-work4 ,within are two chambers1 reached by the original doorway on the east1 and by a breach on the west1 which has been made by the inhabitants of the city1 who hold the memory of ,absalom in profound contempt4 ,within and around it are heaps of stones1 thrown there by ,christian1 ,jew1 and ,moslem1 in condemnation of a son's rebellion against his father1 and1 as a more expressive mark of their disapprobation1 they spit upon it as they pass4 ,this is probably the pillar which ,absalom in his lifetime reared up for himself in the 8,king's ,dale40#acg ,being a mixture of ,grecian1 ,roman1 and ,egyptian architecture1 the style is against the supposition2 but as it was customary in the days of ,herod to 8garnish the sepulchres of the righteous10 so the admirers of the rebel may have reconstructed his 8,pillar0 conformably with the architectural taste of the ,herodian age4 ,illustration3 ,,absalom',s ,,pillar 7,,restored74 ,a little to the north is the reputed tomb of ,king ,jehoshaphat1 from whom the valley takes its name4 ,it is a subterranean sepulchre1 extending several feet into the mountain4 ,the entrance is through an ornamental portal1 consisting of four columns and a pediment1 adorned with foliage1 cut in the face of the perpendicular rock4 ,believing it contains a copy of their ,law1 and other valuable manuscripts1 the ,jews guard this mansion of the dead with ceaseless vigils4 ,but this can not be the tomb of the king whose memory it bears1 as it is distinctly recorded that ,jehoshaphat was buried with his fathers in the city of ,david4#ach ,the false location of his tomb has given a false name to the valley itself4 ,both ,josephus and the sacred writers call it the 8,valley of the ,kidron10 which signifies 8,vale of ,filth10 from the refuse matter that flowed into it from the cess-pool in the rock beneath the ,temple4 ,nor can this be the place to which the prophet alludes when he declares that ,god will gather all nations into the ,valley of ,jehoshaphat for judgment4#aci ,its limits are not equal to such an assemblage4 ,the name ,jehoshaphat meaning 8,jehovah judgeth10 the allusion is metaphorical1 the royal name being applied to some unknown valleythe rendezvous of the arraigned nations4 ,a few paces to the south of 8,absalom's ,pillar0 is the traditional tomb of ,james the ,just1 where he concealed himself during the interval between the crucifixion and resurrection of our ,lord1 and where he was finally interred after his martyrdom4 ,it is a cavern fifty feet long1 fifteen deep1 and ten broad1 with an entrance high up in the face of the rock consisting of four ,doric columns4 ,just south of this apostolic tomb is the monument of ,zachariah1 who was stoned to death in the reign of ,joash1#adj and who is alluded to by the ,savior as having perished between the ,temple and the altar4#ada ,unlike the others1 it is solid1 designed merely as a sepulchral monument to the memory of the martyr4 ,it is a monolithic1 four-sided pyramid1 whose height is equal to its base1 each side measuring twenty feet4 ,separated from the parent rock by passage-ways on three sides1 it is ornamented with columns and pilasters1 each crowned with a plain ,ionic capital1 and above which is an entablature of acanthus leaves4 ,from the bed of the ,kidron ,valley to the ,bethany ,road on the crest of the hill1 and from the 8,pillar of ,absalom0 to the village of ,siloam1 is the cemetery of the ,jews4 ,each grave is marked with a plain slab imbedded in the earth1 and bears a ,hebrew inscription4 ,national love and religious superstition induce the descendants of ,abraham to seek a place of sepulture within this vale4 ,expecting the restoration of their kingdom1 they desire to sleep in death beneath the sceptre of their posterity4 ,believing that the final judgment will take place here1 and that to have a part in the resurrection of the just they must here be interred1 in their old age many come from distant lands to be entombed beside their countrymen4 ,if so unfortunate as to expire in a strange land1 they die in the faith that their bodies will burrow their way through the earth to this consecrated spot4 ,here1 morning and evening1 venerable men prostrate themselves upon the ground in anticipation of death1 and hither ,jewish women come to weep over buried affection4 ,illustration3 ,,tombs ,,in ,,the ,,valley ,,of ,,jehoshaphat4 ,on the opposite side of the valley1 covering all that portion of ,mount ,moriah not included within the ,haram wall1 is a ,moslem cemetery of great age4 ,the graves are covered with two layers of hewn stone1 with an open space between them in the centre1 and ornamented with two upright shafts1 one at either end4 ,the material is limestone1 and1 according to a custom prevalent in ,eastern countries1 the tombs are whitewashed1 illustrating the appropriateness of the ,savior's comparison when he likened the ,scribes and ,pharisees unto 8whited sepulchres40#adb ,while standing here a funeral procession came out of ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate4 ,the bier was borne upon the shoulders of men1 and1 in marching to the grave1 the procession rushed on tumultuously1 chanting1 in a low monotone1 8,god is ,god1 and ,mohammed is his prophet40 ,believing there is virtue in bearing the dead to the tomb1 each man in rapid succession became a pall-bearer4 ,being persons of different height1 the corpse rose and fell according to the altitude of the bearer4 ,on reaching the grave a confused circle was formed1 a funeral hymn was chanted1 and1 after the interment of the dead1 an almoner1 who had been appointed by the deceased1 distributed paras to the throng of beggars who always attend funerals4 ,near the grave stood a group of women1 swinging their arms1 striking their breasts1 and howling in the most frantic manner4 ,they were the hired mourners so frequently alluded to in the ,bible4 ,when a ,moslem dies these mourning women are sent for1 who recount1 in an extempore chant1 the virtues of the dead4 ,they are persons past the pride and beauty of womanhood1 and are held in high esteem by the community4 ,weeping being their profession1 tears are at their command at the shortest notice4 ,their wail is the harshest sound that ever fell on mortal ear1 and the habitual contortions of the face render them the impersonation of ugliness4 ,as in all other vocations1 the woman who weeps the freest1 howls the loudest1 and contorts the ugliest1 is the chief mourner1 and has the most extensive and lucrative practice4 ,to these persons ,solomon alludes in his description of death8and the mourners go about the streets20#adc and ,st4 ,matthew refers to them in his account of our ,lord's visit to the ruler's house1 8,who1 when he saw the minstrels and the people making a noise1 he said unto them1 ,give place1 for the maid is not dead1 but sleepeth40#add ,this cemetery is a place of frequent resort1 where1 at all hours of the day1 groups of females may be seen lamenting some departed friend4 ,as of old1 they carry a tear bottle1 consisting of two small vials incased in a cushion1 and so adjusted that the necks of the vials touch the eyes to catch the falling tear4 ,though as extensively used by the ,mohammedans as they were by the ,greeks1 yet they are not so graceful as the tapering lachrymaries of the latter4 ,the material is coarser1 and the manufacture cruder1 indicating a lower civilization4 ,to these lachrymaries ,david alludes in those tender words of his1 8,thou tellest my wanderings2 put thou my tears into thy bottle40#ade ,descending the dry and stony bed of the ,kidron1 the path soon diverged1 leading to the wretched town of ,siloam1 clinging to the rocky sides of the ,mount of ,offense4 ,in the hill are natural and artificial caves1 used in former times for sepulchres1 but now inhabited by #bjj ,troglodytes1 who dwell in poverty1 filth1 and crime4 ,as a befitting background to such homes of woe1 the ,hill of ,scandal rises up behind them4 ,it is long and high1 rocky and barren4 ,on its summit ,solomon reared altars to ,chemosh and ,moloch1 and burnt incense and offered sacrifices to strange gods4#adf ,from an offense so abominable the hill takes its name4 ,unable to express their detestation for the idolatrous acts here performed1 topographers call it 8,mount of ,corruption10 8,mount of ,offense10 and 8,hill of ,scandal20 and1 as if to typify the moral desolation of that great man's heart1 ,nature has planted neither shrub1 nor flower1 nor grass thereon1 but on all its sides1 and over all its summit1 her sterile hand has scattered fragments of flint4 ,directly opposite the village of ,siloam is the famous ,fountain of the ,virgin1 situated at the base of ,mount ,ophel4 ,it derives its name from the monkish legend that here the mother of ,jesus was accustomed to wash her linen4 ,the ,turks1 however1 call it the 8,fountain of the ,dragon10 from the superstition that1 as it is a remitting fountain1 a dragon lives within it1 who stops the water when awake1 but when he sleeps the water flows4 ,the reservoir is a tunnel-like cavern1 twenty-five feet deep1 excavated in the southern side of ,ophel4 ,sixteen steps lead down to a platform twelve feet wide1 over which a chamber has been built of old stones ten feet high and eighteen long4 ,from this platform there is a flight of fourteen steps1 from beneath the lowest of which the water issues1 which1 after rising to the height of three feet1 flows over a pebbled bed1 and1 passing through a channel1 mingles with the waters of ,siloam4 ,penetrating the mountain1 this winding channel is two feet wide1 from four to twenty high1 and more than #agej long4 ,illustration3 ,,fountain ,,of ,,the ,,virgin4 ,the source of this fountain is unknown4 ,though subterranean water-courses1 which penetrate ,zion1 ,ophel1 and ,moriah1 have been explored1 yet it has never been ascertained whether the water flows from a fountain beneath the ,temple area1 or from some great central reservoir in the heart of one of the hills1 from which are supplied1 by lateral conduits1 the numerous wells1 cisterns1 and fountains that here abound4 ,for ages it has been a remitting fountain1 flowing at intervals two or three times a day1 and suggesting to the mind of some that this is the ,pool of ,bethesda4 ,its location1 however1 is more in harmony with ,nehemiah's description of the ,king's ,pool4#adg ,for centuries the taste of the water varied at different seasons of the year1 being at intervals sweet1 bitter1 brackish1 and tasteless1 which arises from the mineral and vegetable substances through which it flows1 or from the waters of the bath1 coming down from above and mingling with that of the fountain4 ,winding round the foot of ,ophel1 we entered the delightful gardens of ,siloam1 called in ,scripture the 8,king's ,dale40#adh ,they extend from ,kefr ,silwn to the ,pool of ,en-,rogel1 and cover an area a mile in length and #aej yards in breadth4 ,unequaled in fertility1 these gardens surpass in beauty any other spot in the environs of ,jerusalem4 ,irrigated by rills from the neighboring fountains1 they yield abundantly the most delicious figs1 almonds1 and olives1 together with many varieties of ,syrian vegetables4 ,rented by many tenants1 the land is divided into small plots2 and when viewed from an adjacent hill-side1 where is seen to best advantage the deep green of the herbs1 the maroon color of the soil1 and the bright hues of the flowers1 it has the appearance of an elegant carpet4 ,as in happier days1 so it is still the scene of festivity and delight4 ,here children frolic in all the freedom of ,arab life1 and here the veiled beauties of the city recline in sweet repose beneath the shade of fruit-trees4 ,on the green slopes of ,ophel a group of ,jewish maidens were dancing to the sound of the timbrel and song4 ,it was a bridal party celebrating the nuptials of a happy couple on their ancient hills1 and in the golden light of their ancestral sun4 ,the scene recalled the triumphal song and dance of ,miriam and her women on the shores of the ,red ,sea4#adi ,one charming creature1 more beauteous than the rest1 led the song and dance1 while her fair and joyous maidens responded in chorus with voice and instrument1 and followed in the merry dance4 ,unlike the veiled and seclusive ,moslem women1 these fair daughters of ,abraham were exceedingly affable1 and with open1 happy faces bade us welcome to the festive scene4 ,less than #ejj yards from the ,fountain of the ,virgin1 the ,tyropean ,valley descends1 dividing ,mount ,zion from ,mount ,ophel1 and intersecting the ,vale of the ,kidron4 ,its mouth is fifty feet higher than the bed of the latter1 and is reached by verdant terraces4 ,two hundred and fifty feet up the valley1 and situated in a nook in the mountain1 is the ,pool of ,siloam4 ,the water flows from ,mary's ,fountain1 through an irregular and semicircular stone conduit1 conducting it into a rectangular reservoir fifty feet long1 fifteen broad1 and nineteen deep4 ,the pool is constructed of masonry1 now green with the moss of ages4 ,in the southwest corner a flight of stone steps leads to the edge of the water4 ,though the western side is much broken1 yet time has dealt more gently with the opposite portion1 in which are six marble columns half imbedded in the wall1 apparently designed to support an arch or roof over the fountain4 ,in the centre of the pool is 8a nameless column1 with a buried base40 ,in the northeast end a flight of steps leads down to a vaulted chamber excavated in the rock1 where the water is gathered1 flowing in from the ,virgin's ,fountain4 ,from this reservoir it flows beneath the steps into the pool1 where1 having accumulated to the depth of three feet1 it falls through an aperture into a subterranean aqueduct1 conducting it to the gardens of ,siloam below4 ,illustration3 ,,pool ,,of ,,siloam4 ,with unusual accuracy the inspired writers refer to this celebrated pool1 leaving us without doubt as to its location and identity4 ,by a bold metonymy1 ,isaiah substitutes the 8waters of ,shiloah that go softly0 for ,jehovah1 and the waters of the ,euphrates for ,rezin and ,remaliah's son1 reminding the ,jews1 as they had rejected the former1 that those of the latter should overflow their land4#aej ,referring to repairs made by ,shallun1 the son of ,col-hozeh1 ,nehemiah speaks of the rebuilding of the 8wall of the pool of ,siloah by the king's gardens20#aea and hither ,jesus sent the blind man to 8wash in the pool of ,siloam40#aeb ,some suppose this to be the ,bethesda of the ,new ,testament1 and there are many circumstances favoring the supposition4#aec ,owing to the difficulty of the descent1 the impotent man could have justly said1 8,sir1 ,i have no man1 when the water is troubled1 to put me into the pool40 ,it is certainly the fountain to which the ,savior sent the blind man1 intimating thereby that here the infirm were gathered2 and1 in view of its natural scenery1 it is a beautiful place for an angel to come4 ,a few feet to the south are the remains of a larger reservoir1 separated from ,siloam by an embankment1 and bounded on the south by a causeway extending across the mouth of the ,tyropean ,valley4 ,it is now dry1 and used as a garden4 ,on the causeway stands an aged mulberry-tree1 marking the traditional spot where ,isaiah was sawn asunder by order of ,king ,manasseh4 ,its trunk is gnarled1 bent1 and hollow1 and supported by a circular wall of loose stones4 ,as if tenacious to perpetuate the memory of the greatest of prophets1 new limbs have grown from those which are nearly decayed4 ,here1 on a mound of unhewn stones1 the villagers of ,kefr ,silwn hold their court1 which in derision the ,franks call 8,congress ,hall40 ,the court was not in session when we were there1 but the judges1 old1 ragged1 and filthy1 were wrapped in their coarse garments1 sleeping beneath the prophetic tree4 ,in plucking a leaf from this ancient shade1 ,i unfortunately stumbled over one of them1 extorting a most uncourtly grunt4 ,asking his pardon as my only reparation1 ,i hastily retreated1 leaving him and his companions to their slumbers4 ,from this artificial mound the path winds round the base of ,mount ,zion1 and1 after rapidly descending into the valley1 terminates at the ,fountain of ,en-,rogel4 ,this fountain is situated at the junction of the ,kidron ,valley and the ,vale of ,hinnom1 and is the oldest and largest one in the environs of ,jerusalem4 ,quadrilateral in form1 and constructed of large hewn stones1 it is #abe feet deep1 and is inclosed with a small rude well-house1 around which are several watering-troughs4 ,though the usual depth of the water is fifty feet1 yet in the rainy season the fountain overflows4 ,its source is unknown4 ,it is the favorite well with the inhabitants of ,jerusalem1 and thousands of gallons of its sweet waters are daily carried into the city in goatskins on the backs of donkeys4 ,by the ,arabs it is called the 8,well of ,job20 by the ,franks1 the 8,well of ,nehemiah20 but in ,scripture it is known as the 8,waters of ,en-,rogel40#aed ,neither history nor tradition gives a reason for calling it after the illustrious sufferer of ,uz4 ,job may be a corruption of ,joab1 the famous warrior1 who1 with others1 here conspired against the king1 and the well may have been so named from this circumstance4 ,according to the apocryphal book of the ,maccabees it is called after ,nehemiah1 as here he found the holy fire1 which the priests had secreted prior to their captivity in ,persia4#aee ,in partitioning the land into tribal possessions1 ,joshua fixed the boundary-line between ,judah and ,benjamin at this fountain1 and called it ,en-,rogel1 or the 8,fullers' ,well0the place where fullers were accustomed to tread their clothes4#aef ,during ,absalom's rebellion it was around this fountain that ,jonathan and ,ahimaaz secreted themselves1 waiting instruction from ,hushai1 which was brought to them by a 8wench20#aeg and years after1 when the venerable ,david was sinking into the grave1 his ungrateful son ,adonijah conspired against the youthful ,solomon1 and was proclaimed king 8by the stone ,zoheleth1 which is by ,en-,rogel40#aeh ,at this well the ,valley of the ,kidron and the ,vale of ,hinnom form a conjunction1 after which the valley passes between the ,hill of ,evil ,council on the west and the ,mount of ,offense on the east1 pursuing its course through the wilderness of ,judea to ,mr ,sba1 where it takes the name of ,wady en-,nr1 and thence continues southeastward to the ,dead ,sea4 ,from ,en-,rogel the ,valley of ,hinnom runs due west for half a mile1 when1 turning abruptly northward1 it extends as far as the ,yffa ,gate1 from which point it gently inclines westward to the ,upper ,pool of ,gihon4 ,the generic name of this deep winding gorge is 8,the ,valley of the ,son of ,hinnom10 so designated by ,joshua as bounding ,jerusalem on the south4#aei ,who ,hinnom was1 or why this valley bears his name1 are facts on which sacred and profane historians are silent4 ,he is1 however1 one of those men who have left to posterity a name without a biography4 ,historically this vale is divided into two sections4 ,from ,en-,rogel to the southwestern spur of ,mount ,zion it is known in ,scripture as ,tophetmeaning 8tabret-drum0from the custom of beating drums to drown the cries of those children which were here burnt in sacrifice to ,moloch4 ,here1 in this deep retired glen1 stood the brazen image of the idol of ,ammon1 with the body of a man and the head of an ox4 ,within the statue was a large furnace1 into which1 at the appointed time1 and amid the wild shouts of the multitude and the beating of drums1 the tender victims were thrown4 ,first placed on the burning arms and legs of the idol1 they were then caused to fall into the devouring fires within4 ,significantly does the name of this monster imply 8,horrid ,king10 as here1 at his shrine1 were practiced the most revolting rites ever witnessed under the sun4 ,it is to such scenes ,jeremiah refers in his denunciation of the children of ,judah3 8,they have built the high places of ,tophet1 which are in the ,valley of the ,son of ,hinnom1 to burn their sons and daughters in the fire1 which ,i commanded them not1 neither came it into my heart40#afj ,revolting at such a sight1 ,jehovah sends the same prophet to curse the ground for man's sake3 8,therefore1 behold1 the days come1 saith the ,lord1 that it shall no more be called ,tophet1 nor the ,valley of the ,son of ,hinnom1 but the ,valley of ,slaughter2 for they shall bury in ,tophet till there be no place40#afa ,in less than fourteen years from the announcement of these fearful words the valley was defiled by ,king ,josiah1 who filled it with the bones of the dead1 and thereby rendered it ceremonially unclean1 so that no ,jew could enter it4#afb ,but a more terrible doom awaited it1 and a more literal fulfillment of prophecy was to take place4 ,here1 where the shrine of ,moloch had stood1 the last struggle between the ,jews and the ,romans occurred1#afc and from the carnage of that bloody scene the vale received the name of 8,the ,valley of ,slaughter40 ,the dead were here interred till there was no room to bury others1 and the historian verifies prophecy by this ghastly picture3 8,manneus1 the son of ,lazarus1 came running to ,titus at this very time1 and told him that there had been carried out through that one gate no fewer than #aae1hhj dead bodies1 in the interval between the fourteenth day of the month ,xanthicus1 when the ,romans pitched their camp by the city1 and the first day of the month ,panemus4 ,this was itself a prodigious multitude2 and though this man was not himself set as a governor at that gate1 yet was he appointed to pay the public stipend for carrying these bodies out1 and so was obliged of necessity to number them1 while the rest were buried by their relatives2 though all their burial was this1 to bring them away and cast them out of the city4 ,after this man there ran away to ,titus many of the eminent citizens1 and told him the entire number of the poor that were dead1 and that no fewer than #fjj1jjj were thrown out of the gates1 though still the number of the rest could not be discovered40#afd ,it was in view of the detestable custom of burning human beings to ,moloch in this valley1 together with the perpetual fire kept burning to consume the filth from the city thrown here1 that the latter ,jews regarded it a fit emblem of hell1 and applied the ,greek name of the valley,gehennato the place of future torments4 ,the receptacle of the dead carcasses of beasts and of refuse matter1 both animal and vegetable1 here the worm sought its food1 which1 together with the perpetual fires of the vale1 suggested to the ,savior's mind those solemn words1 8,where the worm dieth not1 and the fire is not quenched40#afe ,and now1 as if by appointment1 a deep gloom hangs near this doomed spot1 and the physical features of the valley reflect its horrid history4 ,the gorge is deep and narrow1 the cliffs are broken and barren1 the hill on the north throws its shadow to meet below the deeper shades of the hill on the south1 while the rocks are red as if scorched by eternal fires4 ,the sides of the ,hill of ,evil ,council1 which rises from its southern side1 are perforated with tombs1 now the abode of shepherds and homeless wanderers4 ,midway up this hill is ,aceldama1 the 8,potter's ,field10 the price of 8thirty pieces of silver40#aff ,unmarked by boundaries1 the field contains a gloomy vault1 sixty feet square and thirty deep2 over it is a long massive building of stone1 with an arched roof1 but open at each end1 and on the bottom lay the bones of some poor stranger4 ,strangely inclined to invest all things connected with ,new ,testament history with the supernatural1 the monks assert that the soil of this field possesses the rare power of reducing dead bodies to a perfect mould in the brief space of twenty-four hours2 and1 according to early writers1 the ,empress ,helena caused #bgj ship-loads of it to be removed to ,rome1 where it was deposited in the ,campo ,santo1 and where it preserved the bodies of the ,romans1 but consumed those of strangers dying in the ,eternal ,city4 ,on the summit of the hill is a small ,latin chapel1 standing on the legendary site of the 8country house of ,annas10 in which the ,jews conspired against ,jesus1 and from their 8evil council0 the hill takes its name4 ,within the court of the chapel is the traditional olive-tree on which 8,judas hanged himself40#afg ,it is gnarled1 pealed1 and split1 and is the most villainous-looking tree that ever offended human sight4 ,the second section of the ravine is called 8,the ,valley of ,gihon40 ,running north and south1 its sides and bottom are tilled1 covered with patches of wheat1 barley1 and lentils1 and dotted with olive and other fruit-trees4 ,situated in the broadest part of the vale1 and directly opposite the ,tomb of ,david on ,mount ,zion1 is the ,lower ,pool of ,gihon4 ,it is a reservoir #fjj feet long1 #bfj broad1 and forty deep1 and1 when full1 contains a sheet of water of more than three and a half acres in extent4 ,its sides are formed by the opposite hills1 which have been excavated for the purpose1 and the ends are inclosed with walls forty feet high4 ,it is now dry1 and the flat ledge of rocks on its eastern side is used by the peasants for a threshing-floor4 ,seventy-three yards to the west is ,solomon's ,aqueduct1 which1 first running parallel with the western side of this pool1 crosses the valley at its northern end1 and1 after winding round the base of ,zion1 gradually ascends the mount1 and enters the ,temple inclosure at the southwest corner4 ,it was from this aqueduct that the ,lower ,pool was formerly supplied with water4 ,at the southern end of the pool there is an embankment sufficiently broad for a road1 leading from the ,gate of ,zion to ,bethlehem and ,hebron4 ,in the centre of the path is an artificial fountain1 into which water was conducted from the aqueduct by means of a branch pipe1 and thence distributed into troughs for the accommodation of man and beast4 ,illustration3 ,,lower ,,pool ,,of ,,gihon4 ,it was at this pool the youthful ,solomon was anointed king in the room of his father ,david1 and up the slopes of ,zion he ascended1 8and all the people came out after him1 and the people piped with pipes1 and rejoiced with great joy1 so that the earth rent with the sound of them40#afh ,from this point the ,valley of the ,gihon gradually ascends4 ,opposite the ,yffa ,gate it is forty feet deep and #ejj wide4 ,here in its ancient bed three roads meet1 one leading to ,bethlehem1 a second to the home of ,samson1 a third to the 8hill country of ,judea40 ,from here the hills recede on either side1 and the valley becomes broad and shallow1 covered with grain and planted with olives4 ,seven hundred yards above the gate is the ,upper ,pool of ,gihon4 ,it is situated at what may be properly called the head of the valley1 which spreads out into an almost level plain4 ,around it is the oldest ,moslem cemetery in the environs of ,jerusalem4 ,like its companion1 it is a large tank1 #cjj feet long1 #bjj wide1 and twenty deep1 formed of hewn stones laid in cement1 and coated with the same4 ,the bottom is reached by two flights of stone steps4 ,near the top a stone spout projects from the northern wall1 through which the waters that come down the inclined plains around it flow into the pool4 ,as there are neither springs nor the remains of ancient conduits adjoining the reservoir1 the original source of its supply is a matter of conjecture4 ,it probably had some connection with the ,fountain of ,gihon1 located on the same side of the city1 and which was sealed by ,king ,hezekiah when the ,assyrians threatened an invasion4#afi ,ahaz was standing here when the intelligence reached him that ,rezin1 king of ,syria1 and ,pekah1 king of ,israel1 were approaching ,jerusalem to war against him2 and in that critical moment the ,lord said unto ,isaiah1 8,go forth now to ,ahaz1 thou and ,shear-jashub1 thy son1 at the end of the conduit of the upper pool in the highway of the fuller's field20#agj and1 thirty years later1 here ,rabshakeh1 with a great army1 stood and delivered the haughty message of ,sennacherib to the ministers of ,hezekiah4#aga ,from the bottom of the southern wall of this pool there is now a stone conduit of rude workmanship1 which conducts the water to the ,pool of ,hezekiah within the city4 ,it is formed of large stones carelessly laid together1 and for some distance it is subterranean1 but rises to the surface on approaching the town4 ,the ,pool of ,hezekiah is just within the ,yffa ,gate1 surrounded with dwellings1 and is the oldest fountain in the ,holy ,city4 ,adjoining it are the ,greek ,convent1 the residence of the ,protestant ,bishop of ,jerusalem1 the ,monastery of the ,copts1 and the ,mediterranean ,hotel4 ,measuring #bej feet long1 #aej wide1 and eighteen deep1 it is capable of holding water enough to supply half of the city4 ,the bottom is formed of the native rock1 leveled and coated with cement1 and its sides are walled with solid masonry similarly covered4 ,though designed to supply the citizens with drinking-water1 it is now a ,moslem bath1 called ,berket el-,hammn1 and usually contains six feet of water4 ,in laying the foundation for the ,coptic ,convent1 the builder discovered an ancient wall1 two feet thick1 constructed of large hewn stones1 located fifty-seven feet from the north wall of the reservoir1 and running parallel to it1 proving that the pool is less in dimensions than when first made1 and also attesting its great antiquity4 ,this pool is among the unquestionable landmarks of the city1 and the allusions to it in the ,bible are numerous and explicit4 ,of ,hezekiah it is said1 8,he made a pool and a conduit1 and brought water into the city20#agb and that 8he stopped the upper water-course of ,gihon1 and brought it straight down to the west side of the city of ,david40#agc ,threatened by the fierce ,sennacherib1 whose powerful army was marching against his capital1 8,hezekiah took counsel with his princes and his mighty men to stop the water of the fountains which were without the city1 and they did help him4 ,so there was gathered much people together1 who stopped all the fountains1 and the brook that ran through the midst of the land1 saying1 ,why should the kings of ,assyria come and find much water80#agd ,to deprive his enemies of water1 and1 at the same time1 provide a supply for his own subjects1 he sealed the fountains outside of the city1 and1 by constructing subterranean channels1 conducted the water into large tanks within the walls1 among which is the pool that bears his name4 ,so secretly was the work accomplished1 that the fountain of the ,gihon remains a secret with the dead to this day1 awaiting the skill and patience of the explorer to uncover its hidden waters1 and trace its buried channels to their fountain-head4 ,illustration3 ,,pool ,,of ,,hezekiah4 ,in digging to lay the foundation of the ,english ,church on ,mount ,zion1 the architect came to a vaulted chamber1 resting on the living rock1 twenty feet below the surface of the ground1 constructed of fine masonry1 and remaining in perfect repair4 ,entering it1 he descended a flight of stone steps1 and at the bottom found an immense conduit1 partly hewn out of the solid rock1 and partly built of even courses of masonry1 lined with cement an inch thick4 ,he traced it east and west for #bjj feet1 finding1 at intervals of several feet1 openings in the upper side1 through which buckets could be lowered to dip the water up4 ,had permission been granted1 he might have traced it to one of the numerous sealed fountains of the ancient city4 ,one thing strikes the student of ,jewish history as no less marvelous than true1 that1 in all the sieges to which ,jerusalem has been subjected1 the citizens never suffered from a destitution of water1 while the besieging armies suffered severely1 and were frequently compelled to bring it from afar4 ,for the want of it1 ,antiochus ,pius1 and after him the ,crusaders1 were delayed in their attacks upon the city1 while1 through all the long and horrid siege by ,titus1 no citizen was known to have died of thirst1 though thousands perished of hunger4 ,lying in a limestone region1 ,jerusalem contains but few wells and living fountains1 and in its immediate vicinity but little if any living water is found4 ,to obviate the difficulty1 it was necessary to resort to artificial water-works to supply the demand of the ,temple service1 and also of the vast population which thronged the ancient town4 ,among the public works of ,solomon which he himself enumerates are 8pools of water10#age constructed not so much to gratify royal ambition and adorn an already glorious reign as to meet a real necessity1 and confer a genuine benefaction upon his subjects4 ,seven miles south of ,jerusalem1 and two miles south of ,bethlehem1 are the 8,pools of ,solomon40 ,collecting the water from one of the largest springs in ,palestine into reservoirs1 he conveyed it to his capital by means of an aqueduct1 which still remains1 a distance1 including the windings1 of more than twelve miles4 ,following his example1 his successors either completed the works which he had projected1 or originated new ones as occasion demanded4 ,with a climate unchanged1 and a soil as hard as ever1 the people of the modern city depend upon living fountains and the clouds of heaven for their supply of water4 ,as of old1 the most delicious water is brought from a distance1 principally from the fountains in the ,valley of ,jehoshaphat1 which is brought into the city in goatskins carried on the back of camels and asses4 ,but attached to each dwelling are one or more cisterns1 excavated in the limestone rock1 and measuring from fifteen to thirty feet long1 from eight to thirty broad1 and from twelve to twenty deep4 ,the rain-water is conducted1 by means of small pipes from the flat-roofed buildings1 during the rainy season1 into these reservoirs1 where it remains pure and sweet for consumption during the dry months of summer and autumn4 ,how beautifully this scarcity of water illustrates many passages of the ,bible1 imparting to them a freshness and a reality inconceivable by one who is a stranger to life in the ,east4 ,in the nomadic life of the patriarchs1 many were the sharp quarrels and fierce fights over a well of water4 8,abraham reproved ,abimelech0 because the servants of the latter had violently driven the herdmen of the former from the well of ,beersheba2#agf the ,king of ,edom refused to allow ,moses to lead the ,israelites through his dominions lest his fountains might be exhausted2#agg the churlish ,nabal enumerates water with the articles he withheld from ,david2#agh anticipating the feuds that might arise from drinking of another's fountain1 ,solomon advises1 8,drink water out of thy own cistern1 and running waters out of thine own well20#agi and1 ever drawing his figures from nature and the customs of society1 and recalling the value and deliciousness of water1 the ,savior compares salvation to a 8well of water springing up unto everlasting life10 and the perennial joy of piety to the happiness of one who 8shall never thirst40#ahj ,an ,oriental can appreciate such an ineffable delight6 ,,chapter ,v4 ,laws of the ,credibility of ,tradition4 ,dean ,trench on ,words4 ,scenes of the historical ,events of ,christianity not well defined4 ,palm ,sunday in ,jerusalem4 ,crossing the ,mount of ,olives4 ,journey to ,bethany4 ,site of the ,city4 ,home of ,mary and ,martha4 ,tomb of ,lazarus4 ,christ frequented ,bethany4 ,to his ,visits is due its ,significance4 ,touching ,legends4 ,resurrection of ,lazarus4 ,scene of ,christ's triumphal ,march to ,jerusalem4 ,garden of ,gethsemane4 ,old ,gardener4 ,walls and ,iron ,gate4 ,place of ,sweet ,repose4 ,flowers4 ,pictures4 ,aged ,olive-trees4 ,overwhelming ,emotions4 ,ascent of the ,mount of ,olives4 ,three ,paths4 ,david's ,ascent4 ,connection of the ,mount with the two ,dispensations4 ,scene of the ,ascension4 ,true ,place4 ,commanding ,view from the ,summit of ,olivet4 ,passion ,week in ,jerusalem4 ,footsteps of our ,lord4 ,good ,friday in the ,holy ,city4 ,visit to the ,garden4 ,lord's ,supper4 ,sleepless ,night4 ,calvary4 ,true ,location4 ,its ,appearance4 ,appropriate ,place4 ,via ,dolorosa4 ,pilate's ,judgment-hall4 ,ecce ,homo ,arch4 ,legendary ,stations4 ,crucifixion of ,christ dramatized by the ,latin ,monks4 ,the ,procession4 ,ascent to ,calvary4 ,tumult4 ,spectators4 ,sermons4 ,the ,cross4 ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre4 ,architecture4 ,scene in the ,court4 ,the ,faade4 ,imposing ,interior4 ,chapel of the ,greeks4 ,rotunda4 ,dome4 ,holy ,sepulchre4 ,magnificent ,decorations4 ,its ,interior4 ,the ,tomb4 ,holy ,shrines4 ,not the ,tomb of ,christ4 ,difficulties of the ,question4 ,evidence for its ,identity4 ,objections4 ,argument against the ,site4 ,,some general laws are yet to be deduced touching the credibility of tradition as to biblical topography4 ,at present1 the traditional sites of many important events in sacred history are accepted or rejected according to the taste1 creed1 or judgment of the traveler4 ,there is a lack of harmony among chorographers upon the localities where occurred the great facts of our religion1 and not unfrequently eminent scholars are found maintaining opposite theories4 ,the inspired writers were too much absorbed in recording the stupendous facts of their history to define1 at all times1 with accuracy the boundaries of those places where such events transpired4 ,facts1 not places1 are the burden of their record4 ,they tell us of the deed1 and fearing lest1 by adoring the spot1 we might fail to reap the full advantage of the transaction1 they leave the localities subject to inference4 ,yet they never ignore the sacredness of places consecrated by memorable deeds1 nor could they have been unconscious of the important relation which frequently exists between the natural features of the scene and the fact they commend to our belief4 ,indeed1 the proof of many of their statements depends upon the exact position of mountain and plain1 of valley and river1 of desert and sea1 which we are left to gather from close investigation and comparative induction4 ,tradition1 therefore1 has its claims upon our faith no less than written history4 ,the traveler is guided1 in his search for sacred places1 by the information derived from three general sources3 prevailing tradition1 the language of the common people1 and the ,bible4 ,the first is reliable in proportion to its approximation to the event the memory of which it perpetuates1 and to the unity of the rival sects in the land upon the subject4 ,but1 owing to the fact that the prevailing traditions were first collated and recorded by ,eusebius and ,jerome in the fourth century1 the absence of any authentic record of such legends during the three preceding centuries requires us to receive the testimony of those eminent fathers with due precaution4 ,it is of little moment how long these traditions have since been received2 the question of greater importance is1 ,how nearly can they be traced to the events the memory of which they transmit8 ,while with pleasure we accord to those early fathers varied learning and superior advantages to acquire information1 yet it is due to an intelligent faith to accept what they record only so far as it is supported by contemporary history and by the harmony existing between the physical features of the locality and the inspired account4 ,dean ,trench has said that 8language is fossil history40#aha ,with slight alterations1 the familiar names of the ,bible have been preserved in the ,arabic language1 which derived them from the ,aramean1 the vernacular language of the country when invaded by the ,arabs4#ahb ,in some instances the proper names of large cities have been changed1 but the ancient appellations of rural places are retained1 and this not unfrequently is the only hint to identify some renowned site4 ,but the marvelous minuteness and accuracy of the ,bible constitute it the great guide-book in the ,holy ,land1 and1 when read with care and reflection upon the spot1 in connection with the light derived from other sources1 never fail to lead to right conclusions1 and at the same time they afford the reader the satisfaction of treading in the footsteps of those illustrious men whose words and deeds are the enduring glory of our race4 ,there is less difficulty in identifying those places connected with ,jewish history than in determining those sites forever sanctified by the acts and teachings of our ,lord4 ,for more than fifteen centuries the ,jews were permanent residents in the land1 and during that long and prosperous period they reared monuments commemorative of historic events1 which the spoliations of war have not been sufficient to efface1 nor the attritions of time able to destroy2 hence1 without a doubt1 the traveler of to-day stands with delight within their ancient cities1 or lingers with melancholy interest amid their ruined towns4 ,it is otherwise1 however1 with ,christian antiquities4 ,the ,founder of our faith was but a sojourner in the land1 and his followers failed to become a distinct and ruling people till the early part of the fourth century4 ,always oppressed1 and never respected1 till the son of ,helena bore the ,cross in triumph to the gates of ,jerusalem1 they were without the rights and destitute of the means to perpetuate by enduring monuments the memory of those places hallowed by the presence of the ,great ,teacher of mankind4 ,driven from the city in the year #fi ,a4,d41 they were compelled to seek an asylum at ,pella1 on the eastern bank of the ,jordan1 near ,jabesh ,gilead1 and for seventy years thereafter1 from its capture by ,titus to its rebuilding by ,adrian1 ,jerusalem ceased to be the home of the ,christians4 ,it is not1 therefore1 surprising1 that during the exile of so many years hallowed sites should have passed to the shades of oblivion1 and that any attempt to recall them now should be attended with some uncertainty4 ,though unable at all times to stand with confidence where ,jesus stood1 and walk where he walked1 it is nevertheless a source of unspeakable delight to know that ,jerusalem is the city in which he taught2 that there are the skies he sat beneath2 there the hills and vales he traversed2 there the garden of his agony2 and that rising above is ,olivet1 whose flowers were moistened with his tears1 whose echoes were awakened by his prayers1 and whose summit was the last spot of earth pressed by his adorable feet4 ,palm ,sunday dawned upon the ,holy ,city in all the beauty of a ,syrian spring4 ,a sweet repose pervaded earth and sky2 the very air was at rest1 and a vernal sun shone softly from skies of a purple tint4 ,it was the anniversary of our ,lord's triumphal entry into the city of ,david1 and ,i was in the spirit to join the imaginary throng on the same highway1 and shout1 8,blessed is he who cometh in the name of the ,lord2 ,hosanna in the highest40 ,from early dawn1 through all the lanes and streets of the city1 pilgrims were hastening to the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre1 thronging the spacious aisles1 rotundas1 and lateral chapels of that venerable edifice4 ,differing from the ,greeks a moon or a month as to the time of the festival1 the ,latins were assembled in their ,franciscan chapel adjoining the rotunda4 ,the altar was decorated with vases of flowers1 and over it were suspended palm-branches1 the symbol of the day4 ,the bishop and officiating priests were attired in their elegant robes2 a noble organ pealed forth the responses to the intoned service1 and in the vast audience were monks and nuns1 officers of the state and of the army1 and pilgrims and strangers from all lands4 ,the scene of our ,lord's triumphal march from ,bethany to ,jerusalem is no less distinctly marked by a universally received tradition than by the everlasting hills and valleys whose awakening echoes responded to the anthems of the rejoicing multitude4 ,the distance from the ,holy ,city to ,bethany is correctly stated by the ,evangelist as fifteen furlongs1 or a little less than two miles1 counting eight furlongs to the ,roman mile4 ,the ancient path leads from ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate down the steep sides of ,moriah1 and1 after crossing the stone bridge that spans the ,kidron1 ascends to the walls of ,gethsemane4 ,from the garden three roads lead to the village home of ,lazarus4 ,one1 winding up a slight depression in the western side of ,olivet1 sweeps round the hamlet of ,jebel et-,tr1 which crowns the summit1 and descends the green slopes on the eastern side4 ,the second branches from the first just above the garden1 and1 winding upward1 skirts the valley on the south1 intersecting the former a short distance above ,bethany4 ,the third1 which is the most ancient and frequented of the three1 turns to the right below the garden wall1 and1 following the devious base of ,olivet on the south1 leads to ,bethany1 to ,jericho1 and to the heights of ,moab beyond the ,jordan4 ,in the ,east1 the land itself is not older than the great highways of the nation4 ,chosen alike for ease and directness1 the valleys and mountain slopes are the principal thoroughfares1 which1 to succeeding generations1 remain the landmarks of the past4 ,crossing the ,mount of ,olives1 in less than half an hour ,i reached the native town of ,lazarus4 ,from the numerous date-palms that once flourished in its environs the village was called ,bethany1 or the 8,house of ,dates20 but1 in honor of him who was raised from the dead1 it bears the name of ,el-,laziryeh4#ahc ,it is situated in a semicircular vale1 with an opening toward the east to admit the morning's earliest light4 ,amid groves of olive1 fig1 and almond trees are twenty ,arab huts1 containing #ajj inhabitants4 ,the villagers are quiet and happy1 and the half-nude children leap for joy on the reception of a few piastres for the milk and fruit they sell to strangers4 ,all the ,bible memories of the place are cherished by the people1 and an old man is in waiting to point out the traditional sites4 ,in the absence of positive proof either for or against these legendary places1 the traveler is left to his own conclusions1 drawn from history and from the probabilities of location4 ,of the house of ,simon but little remains1 and only a fragment of the residence of ,lazarus has survived the waste of ages4 ,the latter occupies a commanding position on a scarped rock1 and in its day was a building of some elegance4 ,formed of large beveled stones1 it was twenty-one feet square4 ,from the top of a remaining arch a prospect of singular beauty opens to view through the ravine on the east1 and1 no doubt1 often was enjoyed by the master and his three friends4 ,archologists have called in question the identity of this ruin1 and have claimed it as the remains of the ,convent of the ,black ,nuns1 founded in #aacb ,a4,d4 by ,mesilinda1 ,queen of ,fulco of ,jerusalem1 over which she placed her sister ,ireta as abbess1 a matron of approved piety4 ,yet it is highly probable that1 as ,bethany has always been inhabited1 and as the recollection of the raising of a man from the dead would be among those longest and most tenaciously cherished by a people1 either this arch is a part of the stone house which tradition asserts to have been occupied by ,lazarus and his sisters1 or1 if the remains of the convent of ,mesilinda1 it marks the spot where he resided4 ,illustration3 ,,bethany4 ,under the brow of a hill in the northeast part of the town is the supposed tomb of ,lazarus4 ,twenty-six stone steps lead to a vaulted chamber twenty-two feet below the surface of the ground1 which is excavated in the rock1 and measures eleven feet long1 nine wide1 and seventeen high4 ,on the left a small door opens to a narrow vault where the dead once rested4 ,bearing marks of great antiquity1 there is no reason to doubt the identity of this tomb4 ,the saying of those ,jews who came to comfort ,mary1 that 8she goeth unto the grave to weep10#ahd would indicate1 at first1 that her brother had been interred some distance from the town2 this1 however1 does not necessarily follow1 as the same remark would be appropriate if the sepulchre was in the village1 whatever may have been the distance from her dwelling4 ,like many other ,syrian towns1 ,bethany has risen to importance1 and inherits an imperishable name from the presence and miracles of ,jesus4 ,it was to ,judea what ,capernaum was to ,galileethe scene of his greatest works1 and the place where he delivered his most sublime lessons of wisdom and love4 ,when the ingratitude of ,jerusalem forced him from her gates1 he sought repose in ,bethany1 as1 when driven by the ,nazarenes from his native city1 he selected ,capernaum as the place of his adoption4 ,bethany was his temporary abode in his frequent journeys from ,moab to ,judea4 ,coming from the land of ,moab1 8a certain woman named ,martha received him into her house20#ahe and from the same region he came to raise ,lazarus from the dead4#ahf ,at a later period1 here he dined in the house of ,simon the leper2#ahg here the grateful ,mary washed his feet with tears1 and wiped them with the hairs of her head1#ahh and from an alabaster box1 which 8she had kept against the day of his burial10 she poured the precious ointment on his head as he sat at meat4 ,from this humble village he made his triumphant entry into ,jerusalem1 and here1 in the house of pious orphanage1 he spent the last night but one prior to his crucifixion4 ,there is a touching legend in the ,east that the father of ,lazarus was a pious ,levite1 and his mother a ,jewish matron1 after the model of ,hannah and ,elizabeth2 that ,lazarus himself was a scribe1 who gained a living by copying the ,law and the ,prophets for the various synagogues in ,palestine1 and that ,mary and ,martha devoted their time to needle-workembroidering veils for the ,temple and garments for the priests2 that previous to the visits of ,jesus to ,bethany the parents had ascended to their reward1 leaving on earth their three orphan children2 that the native sweetness of their spirit1 the purity of their devotion1 and their constant attention to his recurring wants1 engaged his affection and secured his benediction2 that here1 in their midst1 he laid aside the awful grandeur of ,teacher and ,judge of mankind1 and in all the refined amenities of social life he displayed the finer traits of his character1 which were hidden from the common eye4 ,and how intimate must have been that friendship for the care-burdened ,martha to come to him with her little domestic troubles2#ahi and how tender the attachment for those stricken sisters to think only of him when their brother died4 ,a greater benefactor than beneficiary1 he rewarded those pious sisters with a gift worthy of a ,god4 ,the brief but sad message they sent him8,lord1 behold1 he whom thou lovedst is sick0awakened all the deeper emotions of his friendship4 ,though even a melancholy relief to be with those we love in the hour of death1 yet1 that the ,son of ,man might be glorified1 ,jesus delayed his coming till after the demise and burial of his friend4 ,many a time had those sorrowing sisters passionately exclaimed1 8,oh that the ,master were here60 ,coming from the fountains of ,bethabara1 he sought the sepulchre of ,lazarus4 ,omnipotence stirred within him2 a groan for life escaped his lips1 a prayer entered heaven that knew no denial1 a voice was heard in the spirit world calling back a departed soul to earth and to a new probation4 ,that voice was obeyed4 ,lazarus came forth1 and joy filled the hearts of those orphan sisters4#aij ,and now1 after the lapse of so many centuries1 the inspired story1 read upon the spot1 has all the freshness of reality2 and though time has marred the beauty of that mountain home1 and borne to the grave the friends of ,jesus1 yet ,mary's alabaster box of costly ointment and spikenard1 very precious1 is still fragrant with the odor of undying love1 and 8wheresoever this gospel is preached throughout the whole world1 this also that she hath done shall be spoken of for a memorial of her40#aia ,in the month of ,march of the succeeding spring ,jesus was again in ,bethany4 ,the moment of his triumph had come4 ,the shouts of the people awaited the presence of their ,king4 ,on the previous day he had descended from the ,mountains of ,moab1 crossed the ,jordan1 traversed the ,plain of ,jericho1 restored eyesight to the importunate ,bartimeus1 and dined with ,zaccheus4#aib ,resuming his journey1 he passed round the base of ,quarrantania1 the scene of his temptation1 crossed the ,brook ,cherith1 where ,elijah was fed by the ravens1 ascended the ,vale of ,achor1 where ,achan was stoned to death1 entered the wilderness of ,judea1 the scene of the parable of the good ,samaritan1 and1 continuing his upward march1 reached ,bethany as the sun descended behind the heights of ,gibeon4 ,that night he was entertained in the house of ,simon the leper4 ,attracted to ,bethany to attend the feast of ,simon and behold ,lazarus1 who had been raised from the dead1 a vast multitude were the next morning on their way to ,jerusalem4#aic ,solemnly intending to assert his regal rights and fulfill an ancient prophecy1#aid ,jesus dispatched two of his disciples to secure an ass for the triumphal occasion4 ,a knowledge of his coming had reached the countless strangers who had assembled in the ,holy ,city to celebrate the ,passover1 and who1 seized by a sudden inspiration that bore every heart upon its resistless wave1 hastened to greet their coming ,king4 ,passing through the palm-groves that formerly lined the path1 they cut down the lengthened branches1 and descended toward ,bethany with shouts of triumph4 ,spreading their loose garments upon the unsaddled ass1 the disciples had set their ,master thereon1 who was slowly approaching the city of ,david4 ,at length the descending and ascending processions met1 and in the rapture of the moment vied with each other in expressions of gladness and in tokens of respect4 ,those who had escorted him from ,bethany threw from their shoulders their loose robes1 and1 spreading them on the highway1 formed a temporary carpet for his triumphal march2 and those who had come from ,jerusalem spread their palm-branches before him1 while from that vast multitude arose that more than regal shout1 8,hosanna to the ,son of ,david6 ,blessed is he who cometh in the name of the ,lord6 ,hosannah in the highest60#aie ,it was the hour of the exaltation of the ,son of ,god4 ,the people had gathered unto ,shiloh2 the visions of the past were realized1 and prophecy was fulfilled4 ,the interruption over1 the great procession re-formed4 ,those who had come from ,jerusalem1 turning round1 led the advance2 those who had come from ,bethany brought up the rear2 while in the centre ,jesus rode in triumph4 ,midway the two cities1 the ancient path burrows the side of ,olivet1 and1 after sweeping round a deep ravine1 ascends a shoulder of the sacred mount1 where the whole city1 as by enchantment1 bursts upon the view4 ,where now appears the ,tomb of ,david then were seen the palaces of ,herod1 and where now stands the ,mosque of ,omar then stood the ,jewish ,temple4 ,charmed by a vision so grand1 the people again shouted1 but1 unelated by the praise or view1 8,jesus beheld the city1 and wept over it40 ,while the scenic grandeur of the prospect thrilled the multitude with joy1 the view of a doomed city caused him to shed more than human tears4 ,once more the procession advanced4 ,descending a shelving path1 with the groves of ,gethsemane on the right and the ,tomb of ,absalom on the left1 the ,savior crossed the ,kidron1 and1 mounting the sides of ,moriah1 he entered his ,temple amid the astonishment of enemies and the acclamation of friends4 ,at the junction of the three roads which lead to ,bethany is the ,garden of ,gethsemane4 ,it is a quiet spot1 and wears the air of sweet repose4 ,formerly it was open and accessible to all1 but now it is surrounded by a stone wall twenty feet high4 ,it is an area of #abj feet east and west1 and #aej north and south4 ,the entrance is through a low iron gate on the eastern side1 and the keeper is an old ,franciscan monk4 ,with a skillful hand he has transformed the inclosure into a pretty but not gorgeous garden4 ,on the east are three terraces1 adorned with flowers4 ,on the first is a well of delicious water1 covered with trellis-work1 on which are vines1 and in the northeast corner is the monk's cell4 ,a graveled walk follows the circuit of the walls1 and on the interior of the walls are pictures representing memorable scenes in the last night of our ,lord's life4 ,the centre of the area is inclosed with a high picket fence1 and the ground within is laid out in flower-beds4 ,as memorials of the past1 he has cultivated the graceful but bitter wormwood1 and also the beautiful passion-flowerthe symbol of agony4 ,near them are a few palms and cypresses4 ,with parental care he has nourished the eight remaining olive-trees1 beneath which he thinks the fearful struggle occurred4 ,they bear marks of great age1 and are now the oldest on the face of the earth4 ,their trunks are gnarled and hollow1 their foliage scanty1 and1 true to their species in old age1 their roots are far above the ground1 but at present covered with an artificial soil4 ,one1 more venerable than the rest1 is seven feet in circumference1 and has separated into four parts from the roots upward to the branches2 a second is twisted with age2 and a third is hollow4 ,but the branches are strong1 the leaf green1 and from the aged roots young trees are sproutingsuccessors to these patriarchal shades4 ,illustration3 ,,gethsemane ,,and ,,the ,,mount ,,of ,,olives4 ,gethsemane is the only place in all my travels ,i hesitated for a moment to visit4 ,i had passed it many times before1 but always felt unwilling to disturb its solemn repose4 ,but1 unattended by companion or guide1 ,i determined to enter4 ,rapping on the low gate1 the venerable ,franciscan bade me welcome4 ,his countenance was pale with watchings1 and a pensive smile played over his dry and wrinkled face4 ,entering his solitary cell1 he left me alone4 ,not a sound disturbed the quiet of the hour4 ,kneeling beneath an aged olive1 ,i gave myself up to the undisturbed reflections and hallowed memories of the place4 ,the story of our ,lord's agony had a reality ,i had never before experienced4 ,this lonely vale1 these ancient hills1 these serene skies1 heard the ,sufferer's cry4 ,here the compassionate ,redeemer lay prostrate upon the ground1 and1 yielding to his ,father's will1 accepted the cup of death4 ,here descended that kind angel who strengthened the fainting ,savior4 ,here resounded the horrid tramp of that ruffian band1 whose huge staves smote the earth1 and whose swords glittered in the starlight4 ,here the betrayer's signal-kiss polluted the cheek of innocence1 and the ,master's words of surprise startled the dull ear of night4 ,here the impetuous spirit of ,peter1 gaining the mastery of his discretion1 moved him to smite off the ear of ,malchus2 and1 losing sight of the dangers that threatened him1 and unmindful of the hatred of his foes1 the benevolent ,savior asked as an unselfish favor1 8,suffer ye thus far1 and he touched his ear and healed him40 ,here the ,shepherd was smitten and the flock scattered4 ,here ,john fled1 leaving the linen cloth in the hands of the ruffians1 and ,jesus was led to judgment4 ,it was passing strange to be in such a place4 ,at every station where ,israel had encamped en route for the ,mount of the ,law2 on the awful summit of ,sinai2 beside the cave of ,machpelah and the tomb of ,rachel2 in the stable of the ,nativity at ,bethlehem2 along the ,jordan2 on ,zion1 ,moriah1 and ,olivet2 and on ,gibeon1 where ,solomon received a wise and understanding heart1 ,i had offered my devotions to ,god2 but ,gethsemane seemed the nearest to heaven in the hour of prayer4 ,gathering a few flowers and olive leaves for loved ones at home1 ,i left the garden with impressions as blessed as they are imperishable1 and began the ascent of ,olivet4 ,the ,mount of ,olives is no less memorable in the annals of ,jewish and ,christian history than its aspect is impressive to the eye of the beholder4 ,rising #bhjj feet above the ,mediterranean1 its base is #ajjj feet from the city1 and its summit half a mile from ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate4 ,having an elevation of more than #djj feet above the bed of the ,kidron ,valley at 8,absalom's ,pillar10 it is #ajd feet higher than the crown of ,zion1 and rises #abg feet above the summit-level of ,mount ,moriah4 ,owing to its irregular outline1 both its form and cardinal points are difficult to define4 ,its general direction is north and south1 with spurs shooting out toward every point of the compass1 and its location agrees with the description by the prophet1 who places it before ,jerusalem on the east4#aif ,including the ,hill of ,scandal1 it may be said to have three peaks1 though with equal propriety ,scopus might be enumerated among them4 ,topographically this may be correct1 but historically the ,hill of ,scandal is too far southwest to be included as a part of ,olivet1 as ,mount ,scopus is too far north4 ,the two adjacent peaks are distinct1 the northern one bearing the name of ,galilee1 from the supposition that there the angels addressed the ,galileans1 and the southern one1 called by the ,arabs ,jebel et-,tr1 but by the ,christians the ,mount of ,ascension4 ,the sides of the mountain gently descend east and west1 and are streaked horizontally with stripes of green and gray4 ,from base to summit it is terraced and planted with olives1 from which the mount derives its name4 ,though rough and stony1 yet in spring-time and summer flowers bloom upon it luxuriantly4 ,on its broad and level summit is the small village of ,jebel et-,tr1 clustering around the ,church of the ,ascension1 and1 in turn1 is surrounded by fields of grain4 ,from ,gethsemane three paths lead to this ,arab town2 one strikes up boldly along a projecting cliff1 a second winds up more gradually to the south1 while the third follows a gentle ravine1 and is the most ancient of the three4 ,it was up the latter path ,david fled from the rebellion of ,absalom1 8weeping as he went up1 with his head uncovered1 and his feet bare40 ,on the summit1 where he lingered to worship1 he was met by the faithful ,hushai1 who1 by the king's command1 returned to the city to defeat the counsels of ,ahithophel4 ,just over the hill-top the kind ,ziba met the royal fugitive with refreshments4 ,and not far down the eastern declivities is ,bahurim1 where the cowardly ,shimei cursed the king1 and where the heroic ,abishai was impatient to vindicate his insulted master4#aig ,this is1 no doubt1 the path ,jesus frequented when returning to ,bethany after the thankless labors of the day in the ,holy ,city4 ,and how significantly do these two reverent names recall the history of ,olivet1 as associated with the two great dispensations of our religion4 ,on its summit was the ,luna ,station1 from which the first appearance of the new moon was announced by torch-light signals to the priests of the ,temple1 which had been previously seen and communicated in the same manner by those stationed on the loftier peaks of ,moab4 ,somewhere on its upland slopes stood two cedar-trees1 beneath which pigeons were sold as offerings for purification4 ,in one of its depressions was the lavatory1 where unclean persons washed preparatory to presenting themselves before the ,lord4 ,at its base the red heifer was burnt1 the ashes of which were preserved for the purification of the people1#aih and crowning the summit the ,shekinah rested1 like a cloud of glory1 when forced from the ,holy of ,holies by the ingratitude of a fallen people4#aii ,but1 contemplated in its connection with the private life and public ministry of our ,lord1 ,olivet has a higher significance to the ,christian1 and awakens within him profounder emotions4 ,it was his house of prayer1 where he ofttimes resorted with his disciples4#bjj ,from some of its shaded slopes1 with the city full in view1 he predicted the final overthrow of ,jerusalem4#bja ,with a matchless purity of thought and diction1 he delivered to his disciples the parables of the 8,ten ,virgins10 of the 8,five ,talents10 and concluded his marvelous discourse by a description of the 8,last ,judgment40#bjb ,at its base he was betrayed1#bjc and from its summit he ascended to glory4 ,charmed with the purity of his life1 convinced of the divinity of his person1 and conscious of a debt of gratitude for his vicarious death1 the ,christian seeks the exact spot where for the last time he touched our earth4 ,but1 wisely neglecting to designate any particular portion of the ,mount1 the ,evangelists point us to ,olivet as the place of ascension4 ,according to ,eusebius1 the traditional site is directly opposite ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate1 and1 prior to the visit of ,st4 ,helena1 was visited by pilgrims from all lands4 ,to honor the spot and commemorate the event1 the mother of ,constantine ordered the erection of a church upon the site1 which1 in the waste of time1 has given place to a humbler structure4 ,by a singular amalgamation1 it stands connected with a ,mohammedan mosque1 whose solitary minaret is seen from afar4 ,the tradition1 however1 does too much violence to the text to claim for a moment the intelligent faith of the present age4 ,he led them out as far as to ,bethany1#bjd and they returned unto ,jerusalem from the ,mount called ,olivet1 which is from ,jerusalem a ,sabbath-day's journey1#bje are the only authentic intimations we have of the place1 and the only data from which we can draw our conclusions4 ,though 8as far as to ,bethany0 is indefinite1 it is sufficiently explicit to throw doubt upon the traditional site1 and to lead us to search for another more in harmony with the spirit and letter of the text4 ,to the southeast of the village there is a narrow isthmus1 connecting the peak on which it stands with one of less altitude and more retired4 ,it is one mile1 or a 8,sabbath-day's journey10 from ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate1 and overlooks the little town of ,bethany1 lying #ejj yards below the cliff4 ,from the ruins which lay scattered on the rocks beneath the isthmus1 it is evident that ,bethany once extended farther to the northwest than at present1 which more completely corresponds with the distance as stated by ,st4 ,luke4 ,but it is enough that ,olivet extends toward the home of ,lazarus a 8,sabbath-day's journey0 from ,jerusalem1 and that from its summit ,jesus ascended to glory1 leading captivity captive1 and giving gifts to men4 ,it is enough that these hills saw the ,prince of life and glory rise1 and leaped for joy2 that these valleys beheld him ascend1 and swelled with delight2 and these skies reached down their ethereal arms to bear him on high4 ,it is enough that earth is linked to heaven1 humanity is the abode of divinity1 and a descendant of ,adam is on the throne of the universe4 ,let us adore6 ,in all the ,holy ,land there is not a nobler panoramic view to be enjoyed than the one which greets the eye from the ,mount of ,olives4 ,owing to the extreme transparency of the atmosphere1 and to the absence of that peculiar haze which lends such an enchanting perspective to the ,italian landscape1 distance at times seems annihilated1 and remote objects appear to view with extraordinary distinctness of form and outline4 ,sweeping over an area of more than twenty miles1 the prospect is as varied as it is grand4 ,turning to the north1 the eye rests on ,mizpeh1 where ,samuel held his court and ,israel gathered for judgment2 hard by are ,gibeon and ,ajalon1 where the sun and moon paused in their brilliant course2 while far to the northward is ,michmash1 the scene of ,jonathan's exploits2 and nearer are ,gibeah of ,saul and 8poor little ,anathoth10 where the weeping eyes of ,jeremiah first saw the light4 ,looking eastward1 desolation and beauty compose the landscape4 ,from ,bethany to ,jericho1 and for many miles north and south1 is the wilderness of ,judea1 sinking down to the verdureless shore of the ,dead ,sea1 whose shining waters are seen through the opening cliffs4 ,far down in the deep chasm through which the ,jordan flows appear the green banks of the sacred river1 and beyond rise the ,mountains of ,moab1 vast and craggy1 and colored with 8chatozant tents of azure-red40 ,on the south is the rich ,plain of ,rephaim1 where ,daniel heard the 8sound of a going in the tops of the mulberry-trees10#bjf and farther on are seen the ,convent of ,elias1 the domes of ,bethlehem1 and the ,frank ,mountainthe 8,tomb of ,herod the ,great10 while to the west and at your feet is the 8,city of the ,great ,king20 and to no other city does distance lend such 8enchantment to the view40 ,in walking its streets and in mingling in the careless throng who share not in the grateful memories of the place1 the charm of its hallowed associations is broken2 but when viewed from the summit of ,olivet1 the spell of history entrances the soul1 the attention becomes serious and fixed1 the eyes dreamy and motionless4 ,the interest experienced in standing on any historic site is increased by being present on the anniversary of the event which has given significance to the place4 ,there is in such a coincidence somewhat of reality at no other time realized1 and the emotions excited on such an occasion are no less tender than real2 and to read a description of the great transaction as written by an eyewitness amid the scenes of its occurrence invests the present with the actuality of the past1 and one fondly imagines he beholds what transpired centuries ago4 ,it is in view of such apparent facts that 8,passion ,week0 in ,jerusalem has an interest to the ,christian traveler not common to any other period of the year1 and1 conscious of such an advantage1 pilgrims from all lands assemble in the ,holy ,city at that time to recall in imagination the memorable events which occurred during the last week of our ,lord's earthly career4 ,indebted to the ,evangelists for our knowledge of what ,jesus said and did on the six days preceding his death1 we could wish the narrative more consecutive and the description more complete4 ,on ,sunday he made his triumphal entry into ,jerusalem as ,king of the ,jews4#bjg ,on ,monday he cursed the barren fig-tree1#bjh drove the money-changers from the court of the ,temple for the second time1#bji and asserted his authority in the presence of his enemies4#baj ,on ,tuesday he entered the ,temple for the last time1 was questioned again as to his authority1 delivered in reply several impressive parables1 warned the people against the corruptions of the age1 pronounced the most fearful woes on ,scribe and ,pharisee1 and foretold the last judgment and his second coming4#baa ,on ,wednesday ,judas contracted with the chief priests for the betrayal of his ,master1 while our ,lord himself spent the day1 either at ,bethany or on the ,mount of ,olives1 in preparation for the solemn events that were crowding upon the heel of time4#bab ,on ,thursday he kept the ,passover1#bac instituted the sacramental supper in commemoration of his death1#bad laid aside his vestments and washed his disciples' feet2 foretold his own death1 his betrayal by ,judas1 and ,peter's denial of his ,lord2 comforted his apostles1 and exhorted them to mutual love2 promised them the ,holy ,ghost1 offered the customary sacerdotal prayer1 and1 having sung a hymn1 in the darkness and stillness of that night1 attended by a few chosen friends1 he passed over the 8,brook ,kidron10 entered the ,garden of ,gethsemane to endure the agony for the world's redemption2 was there betrayed1 arrested1 forsaken by his disciples1 led into the city for trial before ,annas and ,caiaphas1 denied by ,peter1 and imprisoned till morning4#bae ,in the gray of the dawn on ,friday he was accused before ,pilate1 8set at naught by ,herod and his men of war10 and at midday1 bearing his own cross1 he was led out to ,calvary1 where1 at the ninth hour1 he expiated by his death the sins of the world4#baf ,following in the footsteps of the ,master1 on ,good ,friday eve ,i descended the acclivities of ,moriah1 crossed the same stone bridge over which he had passed1#bag and1 entering the ,garden of ,gethsemane1 ,i sat down beneath the aged olive-trees1 and read the touching story of his passion4 ,returning to the city1 in an 8upper room10 in company with a few friends1 ,i partook of the ,lord's ,supper4 ,that night ,i could not sleep4 ,walking out upon the house-top1 ,i looked down upon ,gethsemane4 ,unbroken silence reigned4 ,the city slumbered4 ,the lights around the balcony of the minaret burned dimly4 ,the night wind blew softly from over the deep sea4 ,the paschal moon was descending in the west4 ,a silvery haze1 like a gauze of purity1 overspread the serene heavens4 ,it was four o'clock in the morning4 ,from an adjacent court-yard a cock announced the dawn of day4 ,the distant east began to glow with the morning's earliest light4 ,it was ,good ,friday in ,jerusalemthe hour and the event of all time4 ,well may ,christian affection ask1 8,where is ,calvary80 ,who would not approach such a place in silent prayer8 ,wisely its identity is unknown to earth4 ,though its location is the first object of research by the ,christian traveler when he enters the ,holy ,city1 yet it is the last to be determined with satisfaction4 ,tradition designates a rock1 inclosed within the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre1 as the ,mount of ,crucifixion2 but the site involves a controversy so complicated1 that the mind prefers the recollection of the event to the examination of the argument4 ,rejecting this legendary ,calvary of the monks1 ,i sought for one more in harmony with the topography of the city and with the casual allusions of the ,evangelists4 ,though it is now impossible to identify ,golgotha with certainty1 yet topographical facts and sacred history are so concurrent that the mind is left almost without a doubt as to the direction of the place4 ,as the final scene in our ,lord's trial occurred in the ,tower of ,antonia1 which was near ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate1 it is more than probable that the executioners1 instead of leading ,jesus through the crowded and excited city1 led him out of this1 the nearest gate4 ,and as at that time there was no place suitable for capital executions either on the south1 west1 or north side of ,jerusalem1 we must search for one on the east side of the city4 ,according to ,st4 ,john1 8,the place where ,jesus was crucified was nigh unto the city10#bah and ,st4 ,paul assures us that ,christ suffered without the gate4#bai ,as the priests of old were accustomed to drive the red heifer to sacrifice1 and the scapegoat to the wilderness1 out of the eastern gate of the ,temple inclosure1 so it would be only another instance of the remarkable correspondence between the types of the ,old ,testament and the life of ,jesus if the ,jews1 though unwittingly1 led the ,savior to execution out of ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate4 ,where1 then1 should ,calvary be sought for but in the environs of ,jerusalem on the east8 ,toward the northeast corner of the city wall the sides of ,bezetha are steep1 rocky1 and broken4 ,there desolation is complete1 and the seclusion profound4 ,the ,kidron ,valley winds around those rugged declivities1 and the opposite sides of ,olivet are barren and cheerless4 ,midway the hill there is a projecting rock1 not unlike in form a human skull2 on the north of it1 a small ravine descends into the vale below1 and just beneath it1 on the east1 the highway passes to the ,heights of ,benjamin4 ,the sides are steep and covered with black moss4 ,the term ,calvary neither implies1 nor is it used to designate a mount1 but1 coming from the ,latin calvaria or calva1 means a skull4 ,if ,golgotha is descriptive of a place where skulls lay uninterred1 then this location agrees well with the sense of the word1 as the dead that were here interred were so slightly covered with earth that the bones of such now lay scattered upon the ground2 or if1 as is more probable1 it is the designation of a place where violent deaths occurredthe place for the capital punishment of criminals1 whose bones1 after the flesh had been devoured by wild beasts1 lay bleaching in the sun1 then this1 of all other portions of the environs of the city1 is singularly adapted for such a melancholy purpose4 ,reason and ,scripture alike point to this spot as the scene of that great death1 which has no parallel in suffering as it has no equal in results4 ,reading the four ,evangelists from the brow of this desolate rock1 all the details of the inspired account appeared fulfilled with an exactitude not unworthy an intelligent faith4 ,coming out of ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate1 the mournful procession proceeded along that ancient road on which ,simon of ,cyrene was returning from the country1 to whom fell the honorable part to bear the cross of the fainting ,son of ,god4#bbj ,reaching this desolate scene1 the horrid tragedy was enacted4 ,the place was no less appropriate to the mind of the ,divine ,sufferer than to those who were the instruments of his death4 ,it is nigh unto the city that had rejected him4#bba ,before him rose ,olivet1 his bower of prayer2 beneath his eye lay ,gethsemane1 the scene of his agony2 while1 as if to mitigate the sorrow of the final struggle and light up the darkest hour of his life1 the ,mount of ,ascension rose in grandeur before him1 crowned with the glory of his exaltation4 ,around the cross1 both on the summit of ,bezetha and on the slopes of ,olivet beyond1 is room for the multitude who had assembled to witness the melancholy spectacle1 and for those women who1 8beholding afar off10#bbb 8bewailed and lamented him40#bbc ,from the adjacent walls of the city the chief priests1 scribes1 and elders beheld him1 and mockingly said1 8,he saved others1 himself he can not save40#bbd ,on the road which passed beneath the cross came those ,jewish travelers who1 on reading ,pilate's superscription1 wagged their heads in disdain1 and tauntingly greeted him1 saying1 8,thou that destroyest the ,temple and buildest it in three days1 save thyself40#bbe ,here the rocks are torn and riven2 for when he gave up the ghost1 8the earth did quake and the rocks were rent40#bbf ,in the hill-side are tombs1 which probably are 8the graves that were opened1 and from which the saints who slept arose40#bbg ,down in the sequestered vale of the ,kidron are gardens1 where some old sepulchres still remain1 any one of which answers well the description of the ,savior's tomb8,now in the place where he was crucified there was a garden1 and in the garden a new sepulchre40#bbh ,where else in the environs of the ,holy ,city should ,joseph1 a rich man of ,arimathea1 have his own new tomb but in the renowned ,valley of ,jehoshaphat1 where sleep in death his ancestors1 whose sepulchral monuments continue to this day8 ,and where within the circuit of the city of his rejection should ,jesus rise triumphant from the grave but in sight of the garden of his sorrow1 the rock of his crucifixion1 and the mount of his ascension8 ,the ,via ,dolorosa is a lane-like street1 narrow and crooked1 leading from ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate to the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre1 and its dolorous name is no less significant of the tragical events which1 according to tradition1 occurred along its course1 than of its forbidding and gloomy aspect4 ,like the 8street which is called straight0 in ,damascus1 and the ,via ,sacra in ancient ,rome1 the ,via ,dolorosa has a world-wide renown4 ,its windings1 its rough pavement1 its prison-like wallspenetrated with low doorways and grated windowsits rude arcade1 excluding the sunlight and casting a deeper gloom within1 sadden the mind1 and are in keeping with the monkish legends that have given to it universal notoriety4 ,along this dreary walk1 amid its shadows and solemn memories1 a wounded spirit finds companionship4 ,as the industrious shrine-makers of this and of other ages1 the monks have consecrated eight stations in this narrow street1 commemorative of as many events in our ,lord's journey from the dungeons of ,antonia to the site of ,calvary4 ,in the northern wall of the ,temple area are the two arches1 now walled up1 where stood ,pilate's staircase1 down which our ,lord descended after his sentence was pronounced1 and directly opposite is the ,church of ,flagellation1 marking the place where he was scourged4 ,not many paces to the west is the ,ecce ,homo arch1 where ,pilate exclaimed to the infuriated mob1 8,behold the man60 ,at the bottom of a gentle descent the lane turns to the left1 and then to the right4 ,beyond this angle is shown a deep impression in the solid stone wall1 made by the shoulder of ,jesus when he leaned against it at the time he fainted4 ,near it is the house of ,st4 ,veronica1 the illustrious woman who presented the ,savior with a handkerchief to wipe his bleeding brow4 ,from her residence to the terminus of the street the gloom and silence are painful2 and at well-apportioned intervals are indicated1 by broken columns1 the places where ,simon was compelled to bear the ,redeemer's cross1 where ,jesus addressed the weeping daughters of ,jerusalem1 and where his tragical death occurred4 ,illustration3 ,,via ,,dolorosa ,,and ,,the ,,arch ,,of ,,the ,,ecce ,,homo4 ,throughout ,good ,friday groups of pious pilgrims were threading the ,via ,dolorosa and offering their prayers at its legendary shrines4 ,that night the ,latin monks dramatized the crucifixion of ,christ in the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre4 ,at an early hour the venerable ,church of ,st4 ,helena was thronged with natives and strangers1 consisting of ,greeks1 ,latins1 ,copts1 ,armenians1 ,turks1 and ,franks4 ,to prevent a disturbance1 the military governor of the city had ordered a detachment of ,turkish soldiers to be present4 ,among the dignitaries in attendance to witness the fictitious tragedy were foreign consuls attended by liveried cawasses1 a hundred ,french officers1 with their orderlies1 who had that day arrived from ,berut1 and prominent among the distinguished persons was ,lessep1 the famous canal-digger1 who had ascended from ,egypt in an improvised chariot drawn by a pair of the noblest camels1 and was the first who had crossed that ancient road since the day of ,roman chariots4 ,it was past eight o'clock when the solemn drama was opened with the recitation of prayers in the sacristy of the ,latin chapel4 ,the light of a hundred gold and silver lamps1 fed by olive-oil1 scarcely dispelled the darkness of the hour4 ,at #i ,p4,m4 the pageant was fully commenced1 and the long procession began its march1 each person bearing a wax taper that shone dimly on the air of night4 ,first came ,augustine friars1 attired in brown cowls and cassocks2 then followed a stalwart monk1 bearing an immense cross of light-colored wood1 curiously figured4 ,on the cross was nailed the carved figure of a man1 covered with thorns1 from whose side the life-blood was flowing1 and around whose loins was drawn a white linen cloth4 ,behind the crucifix came two choirs of monks and catechumens robed in white1 chanting a funeral dirge1 with responsive chorus2 following the singers was ,rome's eminent prelate1 the patriarchal ,bishop of ,jerusalem1 crowned with a gold mitre1 wearing a black velvet cloak richly trimmed with gold lace1 and bearing in his right hand a gold crucifix adorned with jewels2 following in his train were priests of lesser rank in dark robes1 and barefooted friars with shaven heads1 to imitate the crown of thorns1 and nuns in blue and black garments and white linen bonnets2 and next came the ,french consul1 the military officers1 the common soldiers1 poor pilgrims1 and strangers from all nations1 whose devotion or curiosity prompted them to join the imposing procession4 ,within the church are lateral chapels1 regarded as shrines by the pious1 such as the prison of ,christ1 the chapel where he was bound1 where he was mocked1 and where his vestments were divided by the ,roman soldiers4 ,at the chapels the procession halted to listen to sermons preached in the ,italian1 ,french1 ,german1 ,arabic1 and ,english languages4 ,it was near midnight when the procession reached the foot of ,calvary4 ,slowly ascending the rude steps cut in the solid rock1 the heavy cross was set in its original resting-place on the summit4 ,in imitation of the supernatural darkness1 every light was extinguished4 ,at that moment a tumult occurred4 ,the rough voice of derision rose above the universal clamor1 and echoed through the aisles and arches of that ancient building1 as the ,turkish soldiers charged upon the people4 ,enraged at the insult offered to his religion1 the ,french consul drew his sword1 threatening death to ,turk or ,christian who should crowd upon him4 ,in a moment quiet was restored and the scene went on4 ,accident gave the charm of reality to the occasion4 ,there stood the captain of the guard1 with the smile of scorn upon his attractive though stern features2 around him were his troops1 and near them were fanatical ,moslems reviling the spectacle2 standing afar off were ,christian women1 robed in white sheets1 concealing their person except their soft dark eyes1 which peered out above their veils2 and surging to and fro1 like mighty waves1 was a motley throng eager to behold the drama4 ,amid the solemnities human nature was revealed4 ,a magnificent ,french priest1 who had been appointed to preach at the cross of the unrepentant thief1 so far forgot his duty as to pronounce a glowing eulogium upon ,france1 and the part she had taken in supporting the ,catholic faith in the ,east4 ,his commanding eloquence touched alike the pride and vanity of the ,french1 and the otherwise decorous officers1 forgetting the time and place1 applauded the time-serving priest4 ,the three sermons at the several crosses ended1 the lights burn dimly again4 ,and now began the descent from the cross1 after the style of ,rubens's great picture4 ,three venerable monks1 impersonating ,joseph of ,arimathea1 ,nicodemus1 and ,st4 ,john the ,evangelist1 approached the cross to take the body down4 ,one1 climbing up behind the cross1 and throwing a sheet around the body and under the arms of the image1 held it fast1 while another tenderly drew out the nails1 kissing each one in turn as he laid them upon a silver plate2 then receiving the body into his arms1 with the head resting on his shoulder1 wrapped it in fine linen1 placed it upon a bier1 and to the chant of another dirge the procession descended to the pavement of the church1 where the image was placed upon the stone of unction for anointing1 and hence borne to the tomb of ,joseph1 to await the joyous notes of ,easter ,sunday4 ,such is a brief description of a scene which annually occurs in ,jerusalem2 and though producing a transient impression on the common mind1 darkened by error and deluded by superstition1 the sublime farce is as irreverent as it is offensive to the enlightened ,christian4 ,debased must be the intellect and vitiated the moral sensibilities of a people who delight in such mournful tragedies1 and corrupt must be the church which sanctions ceremonies so degrading to earth and repugnant to heaven4 ,with equal propriety1 the murder scene of a beloved friend might be yearly re-enacted1 harrowing the soul with the bloody memories of the past1 and imitating in fiction the ghastly deeds of veritable murderers4 ,who could be induced to witness a sight so mournful8 ,the last request of the ,redeemer to his people was to remember his death1 and not to re-enact it2 to cherish his memory1 and not perpetuate the triumph of his foes4 ,devotion attains its greatest purity1 and piety its highest form of spirituality1 as pompous ceremonials are displaced by the simple aspirations of the heart for ,god1 and by the practical embodiment of faith1 hope1 and charity4 ,for fifteen hundred years the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre has been the shrine of devout worshipers from all lands1 and the antiquity of its traditions1 together with the profound reverence in which it is held by the ,christian world1 render it an object worthy of consideration4 ,whether considered as a work of art1 or as a historic site around which cluster the most sacred legends of the ,eastern churches1 it awakens a thrilling interest in the thoughtful and intelligent mind4 ,such are the number and complications of the added apartments1 a delineation of the structure is as tedious as it is difficult4 ,though1 as a whole1 the architecture is of the ,romanesque order1 yet in its different parts it combines a greater variety of styles than any other edifice of equal notoriety extant4 ,standing on the eastern slope of ,mount ,akra1 in the most populous part of the ,holy ,city1 its approaches are from the east and west through low1 narrow doorways leading into a spacious court ninety feet long and seventy wide1 formed laterally by the two projecting wings of the church1 by the faade of the basilica on the north1 and by a stone wall on the south1 inclosing the green plateau once adorned by the palace of the ,knights of ,st4 ,john4 ,a more novel sight is not to be seen on earth than is daily presented in this stone court-yard during ,passion ,week4 ,lining three of its sides1 with now and then one in the centre1 sit the hucksters of pious wares1 recalling the money-changers in the court of ,solomon's ,temple4 ,it is the great religious mart for holy trinkets in ,jerusalem1 and the most auspicious place for the ethnologist to study human varieties1 for the costumer to examine diversities of dress1 for the traveler to witness the manners of many nations1 and for the artist to sketch the most picturesque of living scenes4 ,there are ,turks1 with lofty turbans and flowing robes2 wild ,bedouins of the ,desert1 clad in capotes of camel's hair1 and girt about the loins with leathern girdles1 or attired in their gay1 fantastic riding costume1 brandishing the polished spear2 ,franciscan friars in coarse brown cowls1 and ivory crucifix dangling at their side2 ,greek monks in long black flowing garments1 high square hats1 with magnificent beards1 and hair long as a woman's1 twirling a rosary of mother-of-pearl or of beautiful agate2 ,french and ,italian nuns in black1 with white linen bonnets1 and rosary and crucifix falling from their waist2 beggars in rags1 the lame with crutches1 the blind protected by a dog1 invoking the charities of the rich2 and pilgrims from every nation,syrians1 ,turks1 ,arabs1 ,nubians1 ,egyptians1 ,algerines1 ,armenians1 ,copts1 ,greeks1 ,jews1 ,italians1 ,french1 ,russians1 ,germans1 ,english1 and the ubiquitous ,american4 ,passing through this motley throng1 beggars implore your charities and the venders of pious wares solicit your patronage4 ,here are for sale sandal-wood beads from ,mecca1 bowls of bitumen from the shores of the ,dead ,sea1 glass rings and bracelets from ,hebron1 olive-wood rosaries from ,olivet1 crosses of mother-of-pearl from ,bethlehem1 and shells on which are rudely carved representations of the birth and resurrection of ,jesus1 small tin cans in which water from the ,jordan is carried to the ends of the earth1 wax tapers to be lit at the sacred tomb1 and shrouds of cotton cloth or fine linen to be laid in consecration on the ,holy ,sepulchre1 and then borne to the uttermost parts of the earth by the faithful1 to be wrapped in in death as a pledge of their resurrection4 ,illustration3 ,,church ,,of ,,the ,,holy ,,sepulchre,,front ,,view4 ,around the court are the ruins of antique and nobler edifices4 ,along the southern side are the broken bases of a colonnade once supporting a cloister or arcade4 ,running along the western side is an immense stone structure1 from the northern end of which rises the grand unfinished tower of the ,basilica of ,st4 ,helen2 and on the opposite end stands a solitary column1 crowned with a beautiful ,corinthian capital1 supporting the foot of a broken arch4 ,within this projecting structure are two ,greek chapels1 older than the days of the ,crusaders2 one dedicated to ,st4 ,james1 the other to the blessed ,trinity4 ,on the opposite side of the court is a plain stone building1 the ,greek ,monastery of ,abraham1 through which entrance is had to the ,armenian ,church of ,st4 ,john1 to the ,coptic ,convent1 and to the ,chapel of ,st4 ,michael4 ,along the base of the building is a stone bench1 where monks and priests spend their idle hours playing with their rosaries4 ,the best view of the face of the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre is to be had from this court4 ,it is the chief entrance to the interior1 and consists of the southern end of the transept1 presenting to the eye a grand old faade of ,romanesque composition1 now dingy with the dust of ages and the wear of time4 ,it is divided into two stories4 ,in the upper one are two corresponding windows1 arched and slightly pointed1 massive in mouldings and rich in sculpture4 ,in the lower story is a double portal1 surmounted by noble arches1 supported by clustered columns1 formed of layers of stone resting on heavy bases1 and over the doorway are richly-sculptured architraves1 representing our ,lord's triumphant entry into ,jerusalem4 ,only the western section of the portal is now open1 the other having been walled up since the reign of the ,crusaders4 ,on the right of the faade are the remains of that grand tower1 once consisting of five stories1 only three of which remain4 ,in each of the three sides of the second story is a massive pointed window1 and in the third1 rising proudly above the domes of the church1 are plain and arched windows4 ,though conjointly owned by the ,greeks and ,latins1 the ,armenians and ,copts1 the church is now subject to the control of the ,turkish governor of the city1 who holds the keys1 and levies a heavy tax upon the rival sects worshiping at its sacred shrines4 ,on the left in entering this ancient edifice1 the traveler's attention is attracted by the lordly ,turkish guard and his friends1 lounging on softly-cushioned divans1 where the hours are idly spent drinking ,mocha coffee and whiffing the best ,stamboul from chibouks of elegant construction4 ,except ,st4 ,peter's in ,rome1 there is no religious edifice now standing more imposing than the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre4 ,owing to the addition of chapels and the numerous partitions within for the accommodation of the several sects1 it is not easy to give the dimensions and form of the interior4 ,it may be said1 however1 to consist of a nave #cjj feet in length east and west1 and of a transept extending north and south #ahj feet4 ,the ceiling is eighty feet high4 ,excepting the rotunda1 the nave contains the magnificent chapel of the ,greeks1 measuring ninety-eight feet in length and forty in width1 which is a church within a church4 ,the walls are of wood1 carved and gilded1 reaching to the lofty ceiling above4 ,the entrance is in the western end1 beneath a pointed arch1 now filled with a heavy screen1 serving as a massive door4 ,from four large piers within1 fifty-two feet high1 spring noble arches1 supporting the central dome4 ,in the eastern end is the gorgeous high altar1 the throne of the ,greek patriarchs1 and on either side are stalls for the choral singers4 ,behind the throne1 formed by a wooden screen1 is the robing-room for the priests1 those ecclesiastical actors of a corrupted ,christianity4 ,nothing can excel the gorgeous decorations of the interior1 which is adorned according to the barbaric taste of the ,greeks4 ,the sides of their chapel are elaborately carved and gilded2 from column and ceiling depend lamps and chandeliers of gold1 and ostrich eggs curiously ornamented2 while on pier and screen are rude pictures of the ,byzantine style4 ,rising from the marble floor1 in the very centre of the chapel1 is a marble column1 inclosed with an iron railing1 marking the centre of the earth1 and the identical spot from which was taken the red clay for the formation of ,adam's body4 ,at the western end of this chapel is the great rotunda of the church1 measuring ninety-nine feet in diameter1 encircled by eighteen colossal piers1 supporting a clere-story pierced with windows1 above which is the majestic dome1 a hundred feet from the pavement below1 with a circular opening in the top for light and ventilation1 similar to the aperture in the dome of the ,pantheon in ,rome4 ,in the very centre of this rotunda1 and directly beneath the dome1 is the reputed sepulchre of our ,lord4 ,in form it is not unlike a miniature temple1 ten feet in breadth1 twenty in length1 and of equal height4 ,the exterior is ornamented with semi-columns and pilasters1 with rich cornices and mouldings2 with a dome resembling an imperial crown1 and with a thousand lamps of gold and silver1 interspersed with wax tapers and vases of flowers4 ,the entrance is on the east1 through a small inclosed area1 along which are rows of candles perpetually burning4 ,over the portal floats the banner of the ,cross1 and beneath its silken folds is a magnificent picture of ,christ's resurrection4 ,it is the most spirited representation of that grandest of all events ever thrown upon the canvas4 ,the ,redeemer's form is drawn with all the harmony of parts and the grace of action of an ,apollo ,belvidere4 ,with one foot resting on the tomb1 he is leaving the sepulchre with an air of triumph as majestic as it is natural4 ,illustration3 ,,view ,,of ,,the ,,holy ,,sepulchre4 ,the interior is divided into two small chapels2 the first is where the angel was seen1 and contains the throne on which he sat1 and in the second is the ,holy ,sepulchre4 ,the vault is seven feet long and six wide1 surmounted with a small dome4 ,the tomb occupies the whole length of the north side of the chamber1 incased with marble1 and is three feet above the floor2 the upper slab is cracked through the centre1 and its edges are worn smooth by the kisses of pilgrim lips4 ,forty-two gold lamps burn continually before the tomb1 and from a golden censer clouds of incense ascend as a memorial offering4 ,whether accepting or rejecting its traditional identity with the sepulchre of ,joseph of ,arimathea1 no one can approach this revered shrine without profound emotions4 ,for fifteen centuries ,christians have guarded it with a solicitude no less tender than constant4 ,to rescue it from the hands of infidel ,moslems1 ,peter the ,hermit and the ,pontiff ,urban roused all ,europe to war against the ,turk2 to restore it to the ,church1 kings and princes1 bishops and nobles1 gave their treasure1 and the millions of ,christendom flew to arms to perish in the daring crusade2 to it longing eyes in all lands turn1 and he whose lips have pressed its cold marble in devotion is esteemed a saint with a charmed life4 ,such is the religious reverence with which it is held1 that none are allowed to approach it till hat and shoes have been removed1 while the more devout drag themselves along the marble floor and fondly kiss the unconscious stone4 ,impelled by a superstitious faith and a tender affection for their offspring1 mothers come from afar to lay their children on the tomb1 and many an invalid is only too happy if he may be laid beside his ,master's sepulchre4 ,on leaving the tomb ,i fortunately met a young ,irish monk whose acquaintance ,i had previously formed1 and who on this occasion kindly offered to be my guide in the more thorough exploration of this renowned church4 ,with singular infatuation for holy places1 the shrine-makers both of the ,greek and ,latin ,churches have identified within this venerable building the sites of nearly all those solemn events attending the death and resurrection of our ,lord4 ,in the northern end of the transept is the ,latin chapel1 which has been in the possession of the ,franciscans since #abeg ,a4,d42 though unpretending both in its proportions and ornaments1 it traditionally marks the spot where ,christ appeared to ,mary1 and bears the name of the ,chapel of the ,apparition4 ,passing down the dark northern aisle1 we lingered for a moment in the legendary prison of ,jesus1 at the altar of ,longinus1 the repentant soldier who had pierced the ,savior's side1 and in the ,chapel of the ,division of the ,vestments4 ,a few feet beyond1 we descended a flight of twenty-nine steps leading into the crypt or ,chapel of ,st4 ,helena1 containing the marble chair she occupied while superintending the search for the ,holy ,cross4 ,a descent of twelve steps more leads to the cavern where the mother of ,constantine found the three crosses1 with the title ,pilate wrote detached4 ,from the sides of the rock drops of water were dripping down which had percolated the surface above1 but which the young monk assured me were holy tears1 the rocks still weeping for the dead4 ,ascending to the floor of the church1 and threading the southern aisle1 we came to the foot of the traditional ,calvarya natural rock thirty feet long1 fifteen high1 and as many wide1 reached by eighteen steps cut in the living rock4 ,the summit is reached by two flights of steps1 one used exclusively by the ,greeks and the other by the ,latins1 for1 like the ,jews and ,samaritans1 the former have no dealings with the latter4 ,on the summit is the ,chapel of the ,elevation of the ,cross1 measuring forty-five feet in length1 the floor of which is paved with marble1 the walls draped with silken velvet1 and from the ceiling gold lamps depend1 dimly burning4 ,at the eastern end is a raised platform ten feet long1 two high1 and six wide1 supporting an altar2 and directly before it is a hole in the rock1 two feet deep by one and a half square1 in which once rested the foot of the ,redeemer's cross4 ,on either side is a similar hole for the crosses of the two thieves1 and near them is the rent in the rock caused by the earthquake at the moment the ,lord expired4 ,reverently regarding it as real1 the ,christians of the ,east approach this shrine upon their knees1 fondly kissing what they believe to be the summit of ,golgotha4 ,covered as it is with a marble floor1 it is impossible to determine whether the elevation is masonry or living rock2 if the latter1 it is remarkable that such a rocky eminence should be left in this portion of the city2 and if a natural rock1 its sides and top should be exposed to view4 ,descending the ,greek staircase and turning to the right1 we came to a gloomy vault called the ,tomb of ,adam1 near where once stood the tombs of the chivalrous ,godfrey and the heroic ,baldwin4 ,returning to the transept1 we passed a yellow marble slab1 inclosed with a low railing which pilgrims fondly kiss1 and over which lamps burn continually4 ,it is the legendary ,stone of ,unction1 on which the body of ,jesus was anointed for his burial4 ,passing through the rotunda1 we descended into the tombs of ,nicodemus and ,joseph of ,arimathea1 together with two others1 excavated in the living rock1 and which1 if ancient1 are the most remarkable antiquities within the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre4 ,returning again to the rotunda1 my good ,franciscan gave me his benediction1 and1 parting from me1 left me to the reflections of the hour4 ,whether this church covers the ,golgotha of the crucifixion and the place of our ,lord's sepulture remains an open question4 ,no subject within the range of sacred archology presents greater difficulties1 and none has been contested with a more brilliant display of acute argumentation and varied learning4 ,pre-eminently it is a question of two sides1 and the contest is sometimes so evenly balanced that an assumed victory by the advocates of either theory is one of doubtful certainty4 ,to argue against the supposition1 one is forced to reason against his inclination to stand on the site of the ,redeemer's death and sit within the shadow of his tomb2 to reject it is to leave the world without a substitute1 and consign the remembrance of those grand events which it commemorates to the memory of man1 without a knowledge of the scene of their occurrence2 to deny the identity of the spot is to call in question the traditions of fifteen centuries1 to which the ,christians of ,europe and of the ,east have fondly clung1 and for which the brave have died2 to accept it is to argue against the unbroken silence of three hundred yearsagainst equivocal historyagainst topographyagainst analogyagainst eminent scholarshipagainst the ,bible4 ,the argument for it is tradition and history2 the proof against it is the ,bible and topography4 ,traditionally considered1 the argument in its favor runs thus3 ,such was the popularity of ,jesus1 and such the publicity of his death1 burial1 and resurrection1 as to stamp the place of their occurrence with imperishable memory2 that the descent of the ,holy ,ghost1 the conversion of three thousand1 the early founding of his ,church in the city of his rejection1 and the maintenance of its unity for thirty-seven years1 combined to cherish in the public mind the recollection of the place2 that though1 just previous to the siege of the ,holy ,city by ,titus1 his followers fled to ,pella1 beyond the ,jordan1 it was but a temporary departure1 and that1 after the storm of war had spent its fury1 they returned to the city of their choice2 that the desolation of seventy years which followed the conquest of the ,romans was partial1 and that1 while the more wealthy of the population were sold into captivity1 many of the common people retained their humbler homes2 that1 from the year #acj ,a4,d4 to the present time1 ,jerusalem has been an inhabited city1 and that the ,emperor ,hadrian rebuilt the city1 and1 to dishonor alike the ,jew and ,christian1 he reared a fane in honor of ,jupiter on the site of ,solomon's ,temple1 and covered the tomb of ,jesus with a temple to ,venus2 and that this temple to ,venus remained standing for two hundred years after its erection1 and was seen by ,eusebius in the year #cbf ,a4,d4 ,illustration3 ,,ground ,,plan ,,of ,,the ,,church ,,of ,,the ,,holy ,,sepulchre4 ,such is the evidence for the identity of the ,holy ,sepulchre as the tomb of ,jesus1 from his resurrection down to the commencement of authentic history4 ,it is unwritten tradition1 and1 at best1 presumptive proof4 ,extending through a period of three hundred years of wars1 revolutions1 and desolations1 it is the most unreliable period of all the centuries subsequent to the ,christian era4 ,whatever may have been the temporary interest attached to ,golgotha and to the tomb of ,joseph to the idle and curious1 to the friend and foe of ,jesus1 it is evident1 from their inspired narrative1 that the sacred writers neither shared the excitement1 nor considered it incumbent on them to describe with minuteness the scene of their ,master's death and burial4 ,they were too much absorbed in recording the stupendous facts of our ,lord's expiatory sufferings1 and the glory of his resurrection1 to entertain their readers with an accurate account of the rock on which he expired1 and of the sepulchre from which he arose triumphant4 ,the place is forgotten in the significance of the event2 the actor1 and not the stage1 is the burden of their history4 ,their simple story is1 ,they led him away to crucify him2#bbi ,when they came to the place which is called ,calvary1 there they crucified him2#bcj ,the place where ,jesus was crucified was nigh to the city2#bca ,now in the place where he was crucified there was a garden1 and in the garden a new sepulchre1 wherein was never man yet laid4#bcb ,this is the sum of their record4 ,they must have been familiar both with the place of execution and of interment1 but1 from ,matthew to ,revelation1 the apostles are silent to indifference as to the one and the other4 ,had they deemed it important1 they might have intimated out of which gate the mournful procession passed1 and on which side of the city the ,son of ,god was slain2 but1 regarding such information as unworthy their sublime narrative1 or fearing our idolatry1 they leave us to the uncertainty of conjecture4 ,the invitation of the angels to the devoted ,marys1 ,come1 see the place where the ,lord lay1 was not to enshrine the tomb1 but to unshrine it1 by convincing them by their own sight that he is not here1 for he is risen1 as he said2 and1 dear as the spot might be1 they were not to linger1 but to go quickly1 and tell his disciples that he is risen from the dead4#bcc ,we never read of their return to that tomb4 ,convinced of his resurrection1 they sought him among the living and not among the dead4 ,from the summit of ,olivet they watched his ascending form1 till a cloud received him out of their sight1 and then returned with great joy1 not to the tomb1 but to an 8upper room10 waiting the 8promise of the ,father40#bcd ,in his wondrous sermon on the day of ,pentecost1 ,st4 ,peter declared the resurrection of ,christ1 but made no allusion to his tomb1 while he reminded his hearers that ,david's sepulchre is with us unto this day4#bce ,in all the subsequent apostolic letters1 neither the zealous ,peter1 nor the beloved ,john1 nor ,st4 ,paul1 that devoted worshiper of our ,lord1 ever alluded to those memorable places4 ,history is comparatively silent as to the return of the ,christians from ,pella4 ,many of the first followers of ,christ were strangers in ,jerusalem1 who had come to the ,holy ,city from distant countries to celebrate the annual festivals of their nation4 ,such must have been most of the three thousand converted on the day of ,pentecost1 who1 returning to their far-off homes1 spread the glad tidings of a risen ,savior as they went4#bcf ,and although all who 8believed were together and had all things common1 and sold their possessions and goods1 and parted them to all men as every man had need1 and continued daily with one accord in the ,temple1 and breaking bread from house to house10#bcg yet in a brief time thereafter ,st4 ,stephen was martyred1 8and at that time there was a great persecution against the church which was in ,jerusalem1 and they were all scattered abroad throughout the regions of ,judea and ,samaria1 except the apostles40#bch ,the number who fled to ,pella1 which was but a small town on the eastern bank of the ,jordan1 must have been exceedingly small4 ,those who found refuge there remained for seventy years1 during which time ,jerusalem was a desolation2 and1 excepting the military towers on ,mount ,zion1 8the rest of the wall was so entirely thrown down even with the ground by those who digged it up to the very foundation1 that there was left nothing to make those who came thither believe it had ever been inhabited40#bci ,by some this account is regarded as exaggerated1 and at most it can only refer to the walls of the city4 ,granting the correctness of such a supposition1 and that some of the poorer inhabitants clung to the ruins of the capital1 yet historians agree that the ,christians did not return to ,jerusalem till about the year #acj ,a4,d41 which was after the town had been rebuilt by the ,emperor ,adrian1 and by him called lia ,capitolina4 ,and1 at best1 only the descendants of those who had fled returned1 as during the lapse of seventy years most of the fugitives had ascended to their reward4 ,it is also difficult to conceive how those who had never visited ,jerusalem before1 and especially after it had been rebuilt by the ,romans1 could have identified an obscure tomb which had remained unmarked by any enduring monument4 ,the historic accounts which have come down to us that ,adrian desecrated the tomb of ,jesus by erecting over it an idol monument1 are as contradictory as they are inconsistent4 ,as the emperor was the enemy of the ,jew rather than of the ,christian1 it is impossible to conceive what motive impelled him to dishonor an humble shrine held sacred by a handful of harmless religionists4 ,the erection of a proud fane on the site of ,solomon's ,temple is in keeping with the character of the man and his hatred for the ,jews1 but the desecration of ,golgotha and of the ,holy ,sepulchre is inconsistent with his reign in the ,east1 and with the admission of the ,christians to his new colony and city4 ,but the early ,church historians are not agreed as to the name and character of this idol monument4 ,writing after the death of ,constantine1 ,eusebius speaks of a temple to ,venus covering the ,holy ,sepulchre1 ascribing its erection to impious men2 writing sixty years later than ,eusebius1 ,jerome ascribes it to the ,emperor ,adrian4 ,eusebius declares it was a temple1 ,jerome affirms it was a statue2 ,eusebius asserts it was in honor of ,venus1 ,jerome informs us it was dedicated to ,jupiter4 ,there are similar discrepancies in the writings of these fathers as to the discovery of the ,holy ,sepulchre1 and as to the founder of the first ,christian church reared in honor of our ,lord's resurrection4 ,according to ,eusebius1 8impious men1 or rather the whole race of demons through the agency of impious men1 had labored to deliver over that illustrious monument of immortality to darkness and oblivion4 ,they had covered the cave 7or tomb7 with earth brought from other quarters1 and then erected over it a sanctuary to ,venus1 in which to celebrate the impure rites and worship of that goddess4 ,moved by a divine intimation made by the ,spirit of the ,savior himself1 the ,emperor ,constantine ordered the obstructions removed1 the holy tomb purified1 and a magnificent church to be erected in commemoration of the event40 ,in this miraculous interposition to discover the veritable tomb of ,christ1 ,eusebius concedes that there was no existing tradition identifying its locality4 ,either the place of our ,lord's burial was known to ,eusebius1 or it was not4 ,if it was certainly known to him by a pagan temple standing on the spot1 no miracle was necessary for its recognition2 if it was not known to him1 then there was no unbroken tradition extending through a period of three centuries1 and the question turns upon the credibility of the pretended miracle4 ,the 8,father of ,history0 can only be saved from palpable contradiction by supposing that after the tomb had been supernaturally discovered he found over it a pagan temple4 ,but what proof have we that such a miracle was wrought8 ,what good to mankind has resulted from such an interposition8 ,in all ,bible miracles1 the great moral purposes to be attained justified the departure from the established course of nature4 ,the history of this church1 from ,constantine to our own times1 has been a series of religious rivalries1 of bitter contentions between opposing sects1 of wars between ,christians and ,turks1 of weary and inefficacious pilgrimages from the snows of ,russia and the sands of ,africa1 of useless expenditures of treasure1 of relic worship1 and of the utter absence of moral influence on ,moslem and ,jew4 ,such a miraculous intimation given to the apostles would have been more appropriate than to a warrior whose piety is as questionable as the results of his conversion have proved disastrous to mankind4 ,to an enlightened ,christian mind it would afford a melancholy pleasure to stand on ,calvary and sit in the ,savior's tomb1 but the temptation to idolatry would be too strong for the common mind to brook4 ,duped by a mercenary priesthood for fifteen centuries1 millions of ,greek and ,latin pilgrims have bowed in idolatrous veneration before the reputed tomb of ,jesus2 and for a boon so humble1 immense donations have been demanded for the support of ecclesiastical establishments4 ,the genuineness of this divine intimation is affected by the character of the age of ,constantine4 ,it was the age of pious frauds4 ,monkery had existed for two centuries2 heresies had taken deep root2 saints were worshiped1 martyrs canonized1 relics adored2 and1 sanctioned by imperial example1 the people were ripe for any deception4 ,either the theory of an unbroken tradition coming down from the apostolic age to the time of ,eusebius1 and the existence of a pagan temple upon the well-known tomb must be abandoned1 or the pretended miracle for its recognition must be relinquished1 as the one supersedes the necessity of the other4 ,both can not co-exist2 one or the other is without foundation in truth4 ,jerome and his contemporaries1 together with his successors1 give a different version of the identification of the ,holy ,sepulchre and of the founder of the first church over the consecrated spot2 and1 what must appear as a little remarkable to every intelligent mind1 these later historians1 who wrote in succeeding centuries1 are far more full and minute in their details than ,eusebius1 who was an eyewitness of what he wrote4 ,according to them1 the ,empress ,helena1 the mother of ,constantine1 moved by a pious desire to worship at those shrines sacred to the memory of our ,lord1 visited ,palestine in the year #cbf ,a4,d41 at the advanced age of eighty4 ,having identified the sites of the principal events connected with our ,lord's history1 she determined to rescue them from oblivion by the erection of enduring monuments1 no less expressive of her own gratitude than for the guidance of those devout pilgrims whose devotions might lead them in future years to the ,holy ,land4 ,discovering to her satisfaction the stable and manger of the nativity at ,bethlehem1 and the exact spot of the ascension on ,olivet1 she ordered the erection of monumental structures on the site of such extraordinary events1 at once worthy the ,redeemer's glory and the magnificent reign of her imperial son4 ,naturally desiring to supply the intermediate link1 and perpetuate the memory of the ,savior's death and resurrection1 she earnestly sought for ,calvary and the reputed tomb of ,joseph4 ,whether the recollection of these most sacred places had been lost1 or whether to confirm her faith in the traditional sites1 she diligently inquired of the oldest ,jewish and ,christian inhabitants of the city as to their location1 who pointed her to the area at present inclosed within the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre4 ,but the accumulation of rubbish during the lapse of so many years rendered the search difficult and uncertain4 ,intent1 however1 on the consummation of an object so laudable1 and guided by a divine intimation1 she at length came to the sepulchre of ,jesus1 and near it discovered the three crosses1 with ,pilate's tablet1 still bearing his superscription4 ,the joy experienced by the unexpected discovery of the crosses was lessened by the tablet being detached from its original cross1 precluding the possibility of determining to which of the three it had belonged4 ,ever fruitful in expedients1 ,macarius1 then ,bishop of ,jerusalem1 suggested the happy thought that the three crosses should be presented in succession to the person of a noble lady at that moment afflicted with an incurable disease1 and the one which should impart healing virtue should be regarded as the cross on which the ,lord of life and glory suffered4 ,singly each cross was presented1 the first and second1 however1 without effect1 but on the touch of the third she immediately recovered4 ,content with the accomplishment of a work so grand1 and sincerely grateful for the honor ,heaven had conferred upon her1 she ordered the erection of a magnificent basilica over the ,redeemer's tomb1 and1 full of holy joy1 the venerable ,helena returned to ,constantinople1 where she expired in her eighty-second year4 ,nine years subsequent to her visit1 and seven years after her demise1 the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre was completed1 and with unrivaled pomp dedicated to ,jesus in the year #cce ,a4,d4 ,with these additional facts and palpable discrepancies1 it is impossible to determine to which belongs the honor of the workto the ,emperor of the ,west or to his imperial mother4 ,in both accounts there is the incompatible mingling of tradition and miracle1 mutually destroying the force of each other4 ,an intelligent ,christian1 visiting ,jerusalem for the first time1 and remembering his ,lord expired and was interred 8nigh unto the city10 would not be a little surprised to find ,golgotha and the tomb of ,joseph in the heart of the modern town4 ,at the time of those great events the city was encompassed on the north with two walls4 ,the first1 beginning at the ,tower of ,hippicus on ,mount ,zion1 ran along its northern brow1 and1 crossing the ,tyropean ,valley1 terminated at the western wall of the ,temple inclosure1 a distance of #fcj yards4 ,as the third wall was not built till after the ,crucifixion1 a description of it is not material to the argument2 but on the direction of the second wall hangs the decision of this long-contested question4 ,according to ,josephus1 the second wall commenced at the ,gennath ,gate1 which signifies 8garden10 and was used as a means of ingress either to a royal garden on ,mount ,zion1 or of egress to the gardens in the ,valley of ,hinnom4 ,in either case the gate would have been located near the western wall of the city1 at which point the second wall commenced1 and1 running northward over the level portion of ,mount ,akra to the ,damascus ,gate1 and thence coming down over ,mount ,bezetha1 terminated at the northwest corner of the ,tower of ,antonia1 including in its course the traditional ,golgotha4 ,to the most unpracticed eye such a line of wall would be in harmony with good sense1 with correct civil engineering1 and with the approved principles of military defensive works4 ,to locate the ,gennath ,gate at the north base of ,mount ,zion1 and run the second wall along ,bazar ,street up to the ,damascus ,gate and thence back to the ,tower of ,antonia1 would certainly exclude the present site of the ,holy ,sepulchre1 but would also exclude the large ,pool of ,hezekiah1 give but a narrow space to the 8,lower ,city0 of ancient ,jerusalem1 and leave the whole of ,mount ,akra uninclosed4 ,such a line of wall would have left a large part1 and the weakest portion1 of the northern wall of ,zion unprotected1 and skirting1 as it must have done1 the steep sides of ,akra1 been entirely unavailing as a defensive structure4 ,no sane engineer would have constructed a wall so as to expose to the use of an attacking enemy the large fountain of ,hezekiah2 and1 if the second wall did not run north and south1 it is impossible to understand ,josephus1 who informs us that1 in his assault upon this part of the city1 ,titus stationed troops in towers along the southern part1 and dispatched others to throw down the northern portion4 ,the remains at the ,damascus ,gate of an ancient gateway with towers1 the masonry of which is of equal antiquity with that in the northeast corner of the ,temple area1 are no doubt the ruins of the northern gate of the second wall2 and the traces of an ancient wall between the old gateway and the ,latin convent clearly indicate that the second wall inclosed ,mount ,akra on the west1 and therefore included the ,calvary and ,holy ,sepulchre of the monks4 ,though the legendary claims of this renowned church are rejected1 and its pretended rights to the affections of mankind denied1 yet the antiquity of its origin and the romance of its history can not fail to awaken a momentary veneration in the most indifferent spectator4 ,dedicated to ,jesus in the year #cce ,a4,d41 it remained standing in all its primal grandeur for two hundred and seventy-nine years1 when1 in #fad ,a4,d41 it was ruthlessly destroyed by the ,persian1 ,chosroes ,,ii41 who1 after the capture of the city1 massacred thousands of the citizens1 including many monks and nuns1 and1 as the crowning act of his vengeance1 carried the ,patriarch of ,jerusalem1 together with the 8true cross10 into captivity4 ,sixteen years later the church was rebuilt1 under the superintendence of ,modestus1 superior of the convent of ,theodosius1 and the exiled patriarch returned1 entering the city in triumph with the 8cross0 on his shoulder4 ,destined to the most remarkable vicissitudes1 it was again destroyed in #ifi ,a4,d4 by the ,fatimites1 who1 in the madness of their retaliation1 committed the aged patriarch to the flames of the burning building4 ,remaining a heap of ruins for more than forty years1 the revengeful ,khalif el-,hkim1 the spiritual and fanatical ,prince of the ,druses1 caused it to be entirely demolished1 plowing up its very foundations1 and attempting the utter destruction of the tomb itself4 ,with an energy as untiring as their gifts were munificent1 the ,christians rebuilt their favorite sanctuary within thirty-eight years after their cruel persecution by ,el-,hkim1 and it remained standing till #ajii ,a4,d41 when the ,crusaders captured ,jerusalem2 the church was enlarged and beautified by them2 and during the lapse of more than seven centuries it continued unimpaired till the year #ahjh ,a4,d41 when1 on the night of the #abth of ,october1 a fire1 originating in the ,armenian chapel1 consumed the noble pile4 ,so intense was the heat that the massive walls suffered immensely2 the cupola was rent in two2 the roof of the nave and of the triforium gallery1 together with all the altars1 images1 and pictures1 were consumed2 the marble piers in the rotunda were calcined1 and the lofty dome above fell in with a tremendous crash upon the ,holy ,sepulchre4 ,inheriting the zeal and benevolence of an earlier age1 the ,christians of our own century determined to reconstruct their holiest of shrines1 and selecting ,commones1 a ,greek of the island of ,mitylene1 for the architect1 the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre was rebuilt in the year #ahaj ,a4,d41 and remains standing to this day1 the pride of the ,east and the most imposing of ,christian monuments4#bdj ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,forty ,days and forty ,nights in the ,holy ,city4 ,inside ,view of ,jerusalem4 ,streets4 ,buildings4 ,commerce4 ,a ,cosmopolitan ,city4 ,government ,officials4 ,taxation4 ,population4 ,turks4 ,dervishes4 ,fast of ,ramadan4 ,feast of ,beiram4 ,moslem ,sects4 ,their ,creeds4 ,quarter of the ,jews4 ,their wretched ,condition4 ,their ,nationalities4 ,pensioners4 ,jewish ,passover4 ,ceremonies witnessed4 ,jewish ,sabbath in ,jerusalem4 ,synagogue4 ,education4 ,mr4 ,touro and ,sir ,moses ,montefiore4 ,religious and ,industrial ,institutions4 ,christian ,sects in the ,holy ,city4 ,armenians4 ,their ,wealth4 ,greeks4 ,their ,influence4 ,latins4 ,their ,edifices4 ,monastic ,quarrels4 ,curious ,scene4 ,rivalry between ,france and ,russia4 ,russian ,gold4 ,protestant ,christianity in ,jerusalem4 ,english ,church4 ,house of ,charity4 ,the two ,slave ,girls4 ,,forty days and forty nights in the ,holy ,city gave me ample time to thread its streets1 examine its architecture1 study its politics1 consider its religion1 and form an opinion of the social customs of its citizens4 ,the attritions of time and the physical changes incident to war have marred the beauty of this once imperial city1 and the ,jerusalem of to-day holds no comparison in wealth and elegance with the ,jerusalem of ,solomon or of ,herod the ,great4 ,less than twelve feet wide1 the streets are paved with small flag-stones1 and1 being without side-walks1 are the thoroughfares for man and beast4 ,excepting the mosques and churches1 the buildings are constructed in accordance with cheapness and convenience rather than in harmony with a costly and elegant architecture4 ,they range in size from a one-story bazar-shop to a three-story dwelling4 ,wood being scarce and expensive1 they are built of the common gray limestone of ,palestine2 the windows are small and barred with iron2 in the centre of the edifice is an open court2 and the flat roof of each is adorned with a small dome1 adding not a little to the general appearance of the structure and to the comfort of the inmates4 ,the arrangement of the interior depends upon the nationality1 taste1 and wealth of the occupant4 ,usually the furniture is of the simplest kind1 consisting of low stools for tables1 on which the food is placed1 and a series of divans encircling the room1 which are used for seats in the daytime and for beds at night4 ,the floor1 walls1 and ceiling are of stone1 and are whitewashed as a substitute for carpets1 paint1 and paper4 ,the bazars are in the most frequented streets1 and are in either a small building or on the ground floor of a dwelling4 ,the articles for sale are displayed on a shelf in front of the shop1 or around the casement of the door4 ,in addition to the more common necessaries of life1 the principal commodities of traffic are the several kinds of ,persian and ,turkish tobacco1 the fruits of the country1 some rude silk and cotton fabrics manufactured in the city1 together with beads1 trinkets1 and jewelry1 of which the ladies are very fond4 ,the commerce of the modern town is not equal to that of the ancient capital1 when the merchants were princes1 and when the caravans of the ,east brought to her gates the fine linen of ,egypt1 the steeds of ,arabia1 the carpets of ,persia1 the shawls of ,cashmere1 and the marvels of ,bagdad4 ,illustration3 ,,view ,,of ,,modern ,,jerusalem ,,from ,,the ,,mount ,,of ,,olives4 ,jerusalem is a cosmopolitan city1 where the representatives from all nations congregate and live4 ,amounting to #bj1jjj souls1 the present population is divided into classes according to their religious opinions1 and each sect occupies a separate portion of the town called 8,quarters40 ,the ,turk is now in power1 swaying his iron sceptre1 which he has held for more than six hundred years4 ,the city having been elevated to the dignity of a distinct pashalic1 the ,pasha is appointed by the ,sultan1 and comes from ,constantinople4 ,the municipal government is civil and military4 ,the civil governor is assisted by a delegated council of ,moslems1 of which one ,jew and one ,christian are members by sufferance1 to represent the interests of their respective churches4 ,criminal and civil justice is administered by a city judge1 called the 8,cadi10 who is judge and jury1 and whose decisions are law1 whether the dictates of an impartial judgment or the sentence of a bribed magistrate4 ,the military department is under ,bim-,pasha1 the most dreaded of all the government officials4 ,his troops perform the double duty of garrison and police1 guarding the gates during the day and patroling the streets at night4 ,destitute of courtesy and the finer feelings of our humanity1 they are the most brutal class of men on the globe1 who are respected because they are dreaded1 and feared because they are vindictive4 ,the palaces of the civil and military governors of the city are in the northwest corner of the ,haram2 the common council holds its sessions in what was once the hall of the ,jewish ,sanhedrim1 and the soldiers have their barracks in the ,hippic ,tower and in the ,tower of ,antonia1 where is still the city prison4 ,the government is supported by taxation1 which is as heavy as the military collectors are exacting4 ,every expedient is resorted to to avoid the payment of a tax which is imposed with rapacity and gathered with rigor4 ,under the pretense of poverty1 rich ,jews live in filth and go through the streets in rags2 and to escape the system of espionage which the grasping ,turk has established1 both ,arabs and ,christians secrete their treasures in fields and cellars4 ,the ,moslem population is estimated at #geef souls1 and their 8,quarter0 extends from the southwest corner of the ,haram to the central bazar1 thence up to the ,damascus ,gate1 including a portion of ,mount ,akra1 the whole of ,mount ,bezetha1 as far down as the northern wall of the ,temple inclosure4 ,mount ,moriah is exclusively their own2 and1 besides the famous mosques of ,omar and ,el-,aksa1 they have several others within the limits of their districts4 ,five times a day from their graceful minarets the muezzins call the faithful to prayers4 ,many of the ,turks1 especially those of foreign birth1 are men of noble bearing1 and in their way are polite2 but the ,arab ,moslems are the most despicable of beings1 guilty of all the crimes forbidden in the ,five ,books of ,moses4 ,among the most idle1 reveling1 and villainous class of men in the city are the ,dervishes1 the embodiment of fanaticism and the cause of nearly all the religious troubles which occur within the town4 ,in their devotions they are the ,pharisees of modern times4 ,whether at the corner of the streets1 or in the crowded bazar1 or on the house-top1 wherever the hour of prayer overtakes them1 they count their rosaries1 perform their genuflexions1 and recite their ,koran prayers4 ,during our stay in ,jerusalem the ,mohammedan fast called 8,ramadan0 occurred1 lasting from moon till moon4 ,at four o'clock ,p4,m4 on the eleventh of ,march the commencement of the fast was announced by a cannon from the ,tower of ,hippicus4 ,all that night long the balconies of the several minarets were brilliantly illuminated1 and amid the glory of a thousand lamps the sonorous voice of the muezzin was heard chanting1 8,god is great2 ,mohammed is his prophet2 rise up and offer prayer2 prayer is better than sleep40 ,throughout that month no faithful follower of the ,prophet ate from sunrise till sunset1 but the booming of the evening gun was the signal for a night of rioting and feasting4 ,on the evening of the #gth of ,april seven guns from ,hippicus announced the joyful intelligence that the 8,fast of ,ramadan0 had ended1 which was received with shouts that awakened the solemn echoes of ,olivet1 and was immediately succeeded by the 8,feast of ,beiram10 at which gluttony is the prevailing sin4 ,like other religious bodies1 the ,mohammedans are divided into sects1 which have originated in the different interpretations of the ,koran by certain doctors whose names they bear4 ,deriving their faith from four principal sourcesthe ,koran1 the traditions of the ,prophet1 the ,concordance of his primitive disciples1 and from analogy1 they hold to two cardinal truths3 8,there is no ,god but ,god1 and ,mohammed is his prophet40 ,believing their religious system1 like the ,mosaic dispensation1 to be a part of the scheme of the ,gospel1 and not an antagonism to it1 they regard their sacred writings to be the restoration of the ,pentateuch1 the ,psalms of ,david1 and the ,four ,gospels to their original purity4 ,revering ,adam1 ,noah1 ,abraham1 ,moses1 and ,jesus as great prophets1 to each of whom was delivered a portion of a grand system of laws and morals1 they believe each succeeding revelation superseded the preceding one1 and that the honor of receiving the last and grandest of all the ,divine communications of ,god to man was reserved for ,mohammed1 whose name the pious ,moslem always associates with that of ,jehovah4 ,they also hold to the existence of good and bad angels1 to the immortality of the soul1 the resurrection of the dead1 a general judgment1 and to heaven and hell4 ,they believe in the miraculous birth of ,christ2 that he was the ,messiah and the ,word of ,god2 that1 after he had accomplished his mission on earth1 he was received up into heaven without suffering the pain of deathanother person on whom ,god had stamped the likeness of ,jesus was crucified in his stead2 and1 finally1 that ,christ is to come again to establish the ,mohammedan religion in the earth1 and his advent will be the pre-intimation of the world's destruction and the consummation of time4#bda ,oppressed by their haughty masters1 the ,jews of ,jerusalem reside in the empire city of their ancestors in the most abject poverty1 despised by the ,turk and lamented by the ,christian4 ,numbering more than #ggjj souls1 their wretched homes cling to the eastern declivities of ,zion1 extending down into the ,tyropean ,valley4 ,here1 where in happier days each man was a prince and each home a palace1 they dwell as pensioners upon the charities of their brethren abroad4 ,as in ,london and ,paris1 ,rotterdam and ,rome1 ,constantinople and ,cairo1 the ,jewish ,quarter is remarkable only for squalidity1 and the redolence of old clothes and second-handed wares in general4 ,induced by patriotism1 by devotion1 by charity1 most of the ,jewish population are foreign born1 and have sought a home and a tomb in the city of their fathers4 ,as in the days of ,christ1 the ,jews are divided into rival sectsthe ,sephardim and the ,askenazim4 ,the former are of ,spanish origin1 and are the descendants of those whom ,ferdinand and ,isabella banished in #adig ,a4,d41 presenting the rare instance of persons having been exiled to their native land4 ,their language is a mixture of ,spanish and ,arabic2 and1 though subjects of the ,sultan1 they are suffered to maintain a distinct community1 governed by their ,rabbinical laws4 ,numbering about four thousand1 they have four synagogues1 and are subject to a council of seven rabbis1 and a high-priest called 8the ,head in ,zion40 ,their poverty is the most abject1 their filth the most indescribable1 their wretchedness the most complete imaginable4 ,their brethren of the ,askenazim order are principally of ,german and ,polish extraction1 and number in all less than four thousand souls4 ,having been readmitted to ,palestine in the beginning of the present century1 they remain subject to the consuls of their respective countries4 ,being mostly paupers1 they are allowed six dollars per annum for support1 which is the amount per capita drawn from the contributions remitted to them from the rich ,jews in other lands4 ,hoping to enlighten their minds and preserve a knowledge of their religion1 thirty-six reading-rooms have been opened for their instruction1 in which teachers are employed to instruct them in the ,talmud and other religious works4 ,with becoming regularity they keep the feast of the ,passover1 observe their ,sabbath1 and assemble on ,friday in their 8place of reading0 to recite the lamentations of their prophets4 ,on the ,monday night succeeding ,palm ,sunday was celebrated the ,jewish ,passover1 which ,i was invited to witness by a ,christian merchant of ,jerusalem1 whose reputation among the ,jews made him a welcome guest4 ,the paschal moon shone softly as we threaded the narrow streets winding up the steep acclivities of ,zion4 ,calling first on a family of moderate circumstances1 we found them already seated around the table1 engaged in the preliminary devotions of the feast4 ,since the loss of their nationality the ,jews celebrate this festival at their homes1 and in an unpretending manner observe as far as possible the requisitions of their law4 ,in obedience to the command1 all the members of the household were present1 including parents1 sons and daughters1 and daughters-in-law4 ,the dwelling had been carefully cleansed of old leaven by the father of the family2 and1 that his search into every nook and cranny might not seem fruitless1 the busy housewife had purposely placed bits of old bread in such parts of the building where they would certainly meet his eye1 and which he destroyed with much ado4 ,the apartment in which the family were enjoying their annual feast was a large square room with vaulted ceiling4 ,the table had been prepared with great neatness and care4 ,on each plate was a bit of lamb1 a piece of unleavened bread1 a few bitter herbs1 and for each person there was a glass of wine4 ,three lamps were burning on the table1 and as many were suspended from the ceiling directly abovesymbols of the ,trinity4 ,observing a vacant chair and a well-filled plate1 with a goblet of wine before it1 ,i was informed the vacant place was for the ,prophet ,elias1 whom they expected would come1 and for whom they wished to be prepared at any moment4 ,to represent the hasty departure of their fathers from ,egypt1 and in obedience to the paschal law1 each person was attired as for a journey3 8,with your loins girded1 your shoes on your feet1 and your staff in your hand2 ye shall eat it in haste3 it is the ,lord's passover40 ,to illustrate how their ancestors had spoiled the ,egyptians in borrowing 8jewels of silver and jewels of gold1 and raiment10 they had attired themselves in their best apparel1 adorned their persons with their most costly ornaments1 and decorated the table with whatever silver and gold ware they possessed4 ,the father1 who was a man in the prime of life1 sat at the head of the table1 the mother1 a neat-looking woman1 sat at the opposite end1 the three daughters were arranged on one side1 and the two sons on the other4 ,in a chanting tone the eldest son read from the book of ,exodus the story and deliverance of the ,israelites1 while the whole family recited portions of their history in concert4 ,alternately they were jubilant and indignant3 when ,moses triumphed they shouted2 when ,pharaoh was cruel they cursed him1 and in their rage they dipped their finger in the wine1 and1 allowing it to drop upon the floor1 they enumerated therewith the plagues of ,egypt1 declaring ,pharaoh should not have a drop of wine to cool his parched tongue4 ,the ,scripture recitation over1 they began to eat1 exclaiming1 as they tasted the herb1 8,bitter1 bitter60#bdb ,ascending a pair of winding stairs1 we entered another apartment1 where1 beside a ,jewess and a little girl1 three venerable ,jews were partaking of their annual feast with much good cheer4 ,the story of the ancestral sufferings had been recited1 and they were engaged in common table-talk4 ,the lady of the house was affable1 and her little daughter so clean and pretty as to excite affection and merit a present4 ,contrary to expectation as well as to the law1 they offered us a piece of unleavened breadwhich was made of flour and water1 and baked in the form of a thin cakeand a bit of herb1 not unlike ,american lettuce1 and exceedingly bitter to the taste4 ,the three old ,jews were advanced in years beyond the allotted time of human life1 and their white hair1 with their long flowing beards1 gave them a patriarchal appearance4 ,they conversed freely as to their national and religious condition1 regarding themselves under the ,turks as degraded and oppressed as their fathers were under the oppressive domination of ,pharaoh4 ,yet they were not without hope2 8,elias would soon come2 the proud ,moslem would be overthrown1 their land delivered1 and their ancient capital restored to all its primal glory40 ,again winding through the lane-like streets1 into which the pale moonlight came struggling through the broken arcade that spanned the thoroughfare1 we reached the residence of a rich ,jewish banker1 and rapped at the court-yard gate1 but received the scriptural reply1 8,i know you not40 ,from the street we could see the brilliantly-lighted room where the paschal feast was heldthe elegantly-robed ,jewesses1 as they passed by the windowand heard the voices of joy and devotion within4 ,the lateness of the hour1 and the banker's fear lest the display of his plate and jewels might expose him to the rapacity of the ,turk1 were the probable causes of his refusal to admit us4 ,standing without in the chilly air of night1 the time and scene recalled the ,savior's parable of the ,strait ,gate3 8,when once the master of the house is risen up1 and hath shut-to the door1 and ye begin to stand without1 and to knock at the door1 saying1 ,lord1 ,lord1 open unto us2 and he shall answer and say unto you1 ,i know you not whence ye are40#bdc ,retracing our steps1 we followed a narrow alley1 on whose rough pavement our lantern threw a flickering light1 and came to a dwelling occupied by two families4 ,in a small room there lived a poor but industrious ,jew and his wife1 whose inability to keep the ,passover alone induced him to invite to his abode a widow and her two daughters4 ,expressing surprise at her absence from home on that important festival night1 the kind-hearted ,jew reminded me of the provision of the paschal law that1 8if the household be too little for the lamb1 let him and his neighbor next unto his house take it according to the number of the souls40#bdd ,in the adjoining room lived the banker's clerk1 who explained why his master did not receive us4 ,unwilling to allow a stranger to see the immense amount of gold and silver in his possession1 his cautiousness was the reason assigned for the seeming discourtesy1 as his external poverty must be the safeguard of his valuable possessions4 ,restrained by no such fears1 the clerk received us with great cordiality4 ,his sons and daughters1 and all his grandchildren1 had gathered beneath the parental roof1 and1 forgetting ,israel's ancient sorrows and present misfortunes1 they gave themselves up to the freedom and unbounded joy of home4 ,they laughed and talked1 sang and shouted1 ate and drank1 as their emotions rose or appetite demanded4 ,the day succeeding ,good ,friday was the ,jewish ,sabbath1 and was a 8high day0 with the ,hebrews4 ,hastening to their large plain synagogue1 ,i found them already thronging their altars4 ,en route ,i met the high-priest1 accompanied by his two sons1 successors to his priestly office4 ,his bearing was noble1 his face calm and intelligent2 and his lofty checkered turban and flowing robes of yellow ,syrian cloth imparted to him an air of dignity and rendered him an object of attraction4 ,whatever may be their reputed poverty1 those who crowded the synagogue were well attired4 ,behind a lattice-work the ,jewesses were engaged in their devotions1 while the men occupied the centre of the edifice4 ,most of the latter were aged1 and wore an intelligent countenance2 but there was one whose fiendish aspect and quarrelsome manner recalled the rabble whose cry against the ,innocent was1 8,crucify him6 crucify him60 ,nature had qualified him for an executioner1 and his depravity had fitted him for the worst of deeds4 ,he was a short1 thick-set1 powerful man1 his face round and compact1 his nose broad and flat1 his mouth large and compressed1 his eyes black1 and burning with rage4 ,displeased at every person in his presence1 he cursed each who passed him1 and was the terror of the old men1 who dreaded his fury4 ,his ugly face haunts my memory still4 ,he was possessed4 ,he represents the murderers of our ,lord4 ,at the door stood two venerable ,jews1 one holding a lemon and the other a herb1 and1 as the people came out1 they kissed the one and smelled the other4 ,with a view to dispel the ignorance which1 like the pall of death1 enshrouds the ,jewish mind1 generous efforts have been made within the last quarter of a century to ameliorate the condition of those whose temporary or permanent abode is in ,jerusalem4 ,by a munificent donation from ,mr4 ,touro1 of ,new ,orleans1 a new ,jewish hospital has been erected just beyond the ,yffa ,gate1 on the right of the road leading to ,bethlehem4 ,constructed of stone1 with a handsome exterior1 and containing forty beds1 it is governed by a manager1 a steward and stewardess4 ,attached to it is a farm and a fruit nursery1 which in coming years will be of great value to the institution4 ,it is the most home-like looking building either in the city or in its environs1 and the inmates who lounge beneath its spacious portico are immeasurably happier than those who reside in stone hovels within the town4 ,though it is the gift of an ,american citizen1 ,sir ,moses ,montefiore bears the honor of being the founder of the hospital4 ,acting simply as disbursing agent or trustee for the fund1 ,sir ,moses should have had the magnanimity to disabuse the public mind1 and render honor to the distinguished benefactor4 ,within ,jerusalem there are several institutions for the religious benefit of this fallen people4 ,the ,school of ,industry for ,jewesses1 under ,miss ,cooper1 of ,england1 is not far from the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre1 on the street leading to the ,damascus ,gate4 ,nearly forty ,jewesses1 between the ages of ten and fifty1 are there employed4 ,their chief work is embroidery and needle-work1 some of which is so excellent as to adorn the garments of the ,pasha4 ,the inmates labor four days in the week2 in summer from seven o'clock till twelve1 and in winter from eight till one4 ,the building is divided into three departmentsthe work-room1 bazar1 and school-room4 ,twelve ,jewesses attend the day-school1 eleven the boarding-school2 and seven1 who are proselytes1 between the ages of five and fifteen1 are permanent boarders4 ,strong in their traditional faith1 and because of the influence of the morning and evening service in the institution1 the parents of these children give the governess no little trouble in attempting to regain them to the faith of their national church4 ,to the west of the female school is the ,house of ,industry for ,converts and ,inquirers1 under the auspices of the 8,london ,society for promoting ,religion among the ,jews40 ,the inquirers are maintained gratuitously for two years1 though required to labor at some mechanical trade4 ,most of the inmates are cabinet-makers1 manufacturing useful and curious articles out of olive-wood and other kinds indigenous to the country4 ,all the beneficiaries are males1 ranging from sixteen to forty-five years of age4 ,a portion of each day is devoted to such religious instruction and devotion as may lead these sons of ,israel to ,christ4 ,since the establishment of the institution in #ahdh1 forty-two converts have been baptized in the name of the adorable ,trinity1 and a proselyte-meeting is daily held and well attended4 ,with a clearness worthy of maturer ,christians1 some of the converts answered our questions touching their religious experience1 and1 if faithful to their high calling1 will be lights to their brethren in the ,holy ,city4 ,among the ,christian sects in ,jerusalem1 the ,armenians are the most wealthy1 aristocratic1 and influential4 ,their chief establishment is on ,mount ,zion1 consisting of the gorgeous ,church of ,st4 ,james1 and a spacious convent capable of accommodating eight thousand pilgrims4 ,here1 in a new and magnificent apartment1 their patriarch resides1 whose episcopal jurisdiction includes all ,palestine and the beautiful island of ,cyprus4 ,their communicants number about five hundred1 who are mostly foreign born1 and are among the chief merchants in the metropolis4 ,their hundred priests are fine-looking men1 attired in neat black robes1 and high hats of the same color without brims4 ,they employ their time in conducting two theological schools for the education of neophyte priests1 in running a printing-press1 and in clerical duties4 ,in doctrine the ,armenians are ,monophysites2 in ritual1 pompous2 in practice1 8good livers40 ,priding themselves on the power of their royal patrons1 the ,greek and ,latin ,christians are contesting their respective claims to superiority4 ,together with their patriarch1 who is head of the ,church1 the ,greeks have three hundred bishops1 priests1 nuns1 and theological students4 ,the patriarch resides in elegant style in a convent attached to the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre1 in which there is a fine library of two thousand volumes4 ,extending his episcopal sceptre over fourteen sees1 he also controls with absolute authority the twelve convents for monks and nuns within the city1 to which are connected as many churches4 ,in addition to a theological seminary and three common schools1 they have a college of a high grade in the ,convent of the ,cross1 a mile and a half west of the city1 where one hundred young men have entered a collegiate course of seven years1 maintained and educated gratuitously by ,russian gold4 ,not less than four thousand people are under their pastoral care1 most of whom are native born4 ,their ancient rivals1 the ,latins1 are rising rapidly to affluence and power in the ,holy ,city4 ,occupying conjointly with the ,greeks and ,armenians the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre1 they hold exclusive possession of the ,chapel of the ,apparition1 their principal place of worship in ,jerusalem4 ,numbering not less than fifteen hundred communicants1 who are mostly ,syrian born1 they have a patriarch1 a hundred monks1 and ten nuns4 ,subject to their control are a number of churches1 schools1 and convents4 ,among the latter is their famous ,terra ,santa ,convent on ,mount ,akra4 ,it is celebrated for its immense treasures1 the gifts of ,european royalty1 and no traveler should leave ,jerusalem without seeing those munificent donations4 ,a hundred ,franciscan friars here abide1 living in luxury1 and1 though moderately temperate themselves1 are only too happy to offer their guests a glass of the choicest arrakee4 ,here is the residence of the superior of the convent1 who is always an ,italian1 appointed by the ,pope every three years4 ,for the maintenance of this monastic establishment a sum not less than #de1jjj is annually expended4 ,connected with it is the ,casa ,nuovo1 for the entertainment of pilgrims gratuitously for two weeks1 though a gift is never refused2 and here is the grand bazar of pious wares1 where the curious traveler may purchase rosaries1 crosses1 and crucifixes to any amount4 ,a monastic life leads to indolence and contention1 and the ,greek and ,latin monks of ,jerusalem are ignorant and idle1 domineering and quarrelsome1 and unworthy representatives of the ,christian name4 ,no one familiar with their character and devotion can regard them as the true successors of the apostles1 or that the faithful missionary spirit underlies their zeal for temporal and spiritual conquest4 ,it is the ancient love of power1 and the perpetuation of the controversy which rent the ,church of ,god in the ninth century4 ,watching the movements of each other with a jealousy as persistent as it is revengeful1 their rivalries engender bitter contentions1 which1 culminating in a quarrel and a riot1 the infidel ,turk is compelled to suppress by force of arms4 ,by a conventional arrangement1 they visit in procession the sacred shrines in the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre at stated hours on ordinary days1 and also on festival occasions4 ,the ,greeks have the precedence1 and the ,latins follow4 ,occasionally their festivals occur on the same day and at the same hour1 when their sectarian virulence gaining the mastery of their piety and reason1 they aim to silence each other by louder vocal and instrumental sounds4 ,such was the case on ,easter ,sunday4 ,though not their ,easter1 it was a high day with the ,greeks4 ,as in all basilicas1 a broad aisle encircles the interior of the church1 serving as a path for the march of the procession4 ,the chapel of the ,latins opens into this aisle on the west1 and at that time they were intoning the ,easter service4 ,attired in their most gorgeous robes1 and followed by an immense concourse of people1 the ,greeks had made the circuit of the church1 and1 turning their faces toward the open chapel of the ,latins1 chanted a barbaric hymn with such force that for a moment the ,catholics were unable to proceed4 ,fortunately1 the organist came to the rescue of his bishop1 and1 opening the stops of his magnificent organ1 so thundered with his instrument as to compel the ,greeks to beat a retreat4 ,with all their admiration for the ,church of ,st4 ,helena1 their mutual jealousies are allowing the building to fall to ruin for the want of timely repairs4 ,the rain1 beating in through the circular aperture in the dome1 has so far detached the plastering as to leave the lathing exposed4 ,after every storm large quantities of the plaster fall1 and1 while present on one occasion1 a piece fell to the injury of a personal friend4 ,supposing it would be a concession of the right of possession to allow either sect to repair the dome and save the church from ruin1 both parties refuse to do it conjointly1 and neither will allow the other to do it separately4 ,france and ,russia would confer an unspeakable benediction upon the world1 and remove a scandal from the ,christian name1 by stopping such petty feuds1 and demanding a reconciliation no less humane than ,christian4 ,but it is to be feared the emperors of those great nations have political designs in the ,east to be consummated which are promoted rather than retarded by such ecclesiastical broils4 ,both aspire to empire in the ,holy ,land4 ,more fortunate than the ,emperor of the ,north1 ,napoleon ,,iii41 as the imperial patron of the ,latin ,church1 has received1 as a consideration for the services rendered the ,turkish government in the ,crimean war1 the venerable ,church of ,st4 ,anne1 near ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate1 and the beautiful green square opposite the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre1 which was once the possession of the ,knights of ,st4 ,john4 ,russian gold1 however1 has purchased what ,turkish liberality had withheld4 ,in the ,east1 8money answereth all things40 ,a ,turk will sell his soul for gold4 ,under the auspices of the ,russian government1 a piece of ground beyond the city walls on the northwest side has been purchased1 and sixteen thousand square yards have been inclosed by a stone wall1 not unlike1 in strength and appearance1 the wall of a fort4 ,within the inclosure four water-tanks have been constructed1 several buildings erected1 the ,cathedral of the ,holy ,trinity1 a large house for the ecclesiastical mission1 a hospital containing sixty beds1 and an asylum capable of receiving three hundred pilgrims4 ,for the completion of this extraordinary work on the ,meidan the ,russian pilgrims to the shrines of the ,holy ,city have contributed #ffj1jjj rubles1 and a farther sum of #cej1jjj is required to complete the original design4 ,within the city the ,russians are erecting an asylum for female pilgrims1 which in every way will be worthy of the wealth and power of their nation4 ,in excavating to lay the foundation of this building1 the workmen descended through the rubbish thirty-five feet1 when they came upon the remains of porticoes and pillars which once formed part of the principal entrance to the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre in the time of ,constantine the ,great4 ,it is an event of thrilling interest to the archologist and ,biblical scholar2 and were a commission appointed by the several ,christian nations of the earth to secure the consent of the ,turkish government1 and to superintend the excavation1 ancient ,jerusalem might be uncovered1 the palaces of her kings exhumed1 and the paths trodden by the world's ,redeemer pressed by the willing feet of his devoted followers4 ,for more than forty years the light of a pure ,christianity has been shining upon the city of ,david1 dispelling the mists of error1 revealing new forms of moral beauty1 and lighting up the path of life4 ,in #ahda1 the ,european mission to ,jerusalem was modified and its several branches united under a common head1 whose episcopal supervision includes ,mesopotamia1 ,chaldea1 ,syria1 ,palestine1 ,egypt1 and ,abyssinia4 ,uniting in this religious compact1 ,england and ,prussia agreed that the diocesan bishop should be nominated alternately by the sovereigns of the two kingdoms1 with the right of veto invested in the ,archbishop of ,canterbury as to the ,prussian nominee4 ,the only stipulations in the contract are the right to alternate with the ,british sovereign in appointing the incumbent of the ,episcopal see1 and the use of the cathedral when not occupied by the ,english ,christians4 ,true to her traditional policy to gain all things and lose nothing by her treaties1 ,england consented1 and the treaty was ratified4 ,to support the bishop1 the late ,frederick ,william of ,prussia funded #ge1jjj1 and ,england contributes annually a sum equal to the interest on the above amount4 ,the foundation stone of the new ,protestant ,cathedral was laid by ,bishop ,alexander in #ahdb1 on ,mount ,zion1 and consecrated to ,god on the #ast of ,january1 #ahdi4 ,to comply with the exacting conditions imposed by the ,turkish government1 the church was built in connection with the ,english consulate4 ,it is now called 8,christ ,church10 and is an elegant ,gothic structure of yellow limestone1 capable of accommodating #cjj persons4 ,attached to it is a large plat of ground1 occupied by residences and offices for the clergy and agents of the mission4 ,bishop ,gobart1 the present incumbent of the see1 is a man of genuine ,episcopal dignity2 his face is kind and intelligent2 his heart has the pathos of a woman's4 ,his ,easter sermon was simple1 tender1 evangelical4 ,he enlists your attention by the tenderness of his tones1 and melts you to tears by the depth of his emotion4 ,he is a ,christian of large charities1 maintaining out of his ample income several schools in different parts of ,palestine4 ,he is assisted by the ,rev4 ,mr4 ,hefter1 an eminent scholar and a thorough gentleman1 and by the ,rev4 ,dr4 ,sandriczki1 who has the general oversight of the literature of the mission4 ,near the church on ,mount ,zion is the ,bible ,house1 well supplied with the precious ,word of ,life4 ,not far from it is the female school1 containing thirty native pupils2 and beyond the wall on ,zion1 in a substantial stone building1 is the male department1 in which eighty boys were being educated for ,christ by five ,christian teachers4 ,in connection with the ,prussian consulate is ,pastor ,valentiner1 chaplain to ,dr4 ,rosen1 one of the most learned men in ,palestine4 ,under the auspices of the consulate is a school for children and a hospital for poor pilgrims4 ,the building is pleasantly situated on ,mount ,zion1 and contains forty-one girls and as many boys1 who are taught five different languages1 with other branches of knowledge4 ,these children are required to remain1 by contract1 from five to eight years1 and1 if the contract is broken by their parents1 they are to pay the amount of expense incurred4 ,the pupils represent nearly every nation1 whose pilgrim parents have either abandoned them in a strange land1 or died far from home4 ,the 8,house of ,charity0 is governed by six deaconesses1 principally ,prussians4 ,they dress in a simple blue gown and a clean white cap4 ,they are excellent women and efficient teachers4 ,the rules of their order require them to remain single during a fixed term of years1 at the expiration of which most of them marry4 ,their home is often the scene of the most thrilling events4 ,shortly prior to our arrival in ,jerusalem1 a ,turk had reached the city1 and having squandered his money in pleasure1 was compelled to abandon his two slave girlsone a beautiful ,circassian1 the other a dark ,abyssinian4 ,touched with their sad condition1 the kind deaconesses received them to their 8,house of ,charity40 ,the former1 after a brief time1 embraced religion1 was baptized1 and died happy4 ,the latter appeared stupid1 and1 when addressed on the subject of religion1 declared herself 8a donkey40 ,she had attained her fourteenth year1 and1 after six months under the tuition of those ,christian women1 who watched her last moments with the fondness of sisters1 she died of scrofula4 ,every effort to enlighten her mind had been unavailing1 eliciting her only reply1 8,i am a donkey40 ,but1 to the surprise of all1 on the night of her death she requested baptism at the hands of ,pastor ,valentiner1 to whose inquiry why she desired the holy rite administered to her1 referred him to the death of the ,circassian slave1 whose experience she had watched1 and whose last joyful accents she had carefully cherished4 ,expressing as her last wish on earth to go where slaves are free and where woman is loved1 she passed from earth to heaven4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,road to ,jericho4 ,delay4 ,caravan4 ,robbers4 ,ladies4 ,scenery4 ,waters of ,enshemesh4 ,wilderness of ,judea4 ,scene of ,christ's ,temptation4 ,thieves of ,jericho4 ,parable of the ,good ,samaritan4 ,brook ,cherith4 ,wild ,region4 ,elijah fed by the ,ravens4 ,first ,view of the ,plain of the ,jordan4 ,evening at ,jericho4 ,ruins of the ancient ,city4 ,historical ,events4 ,fountain of ,elisha4 ',ain ,dk4 ,castle of ,doch4 ,jericho of the ,new ,testament4 ,scene of ,herod's ,death4 ,town of ,riha4 ,site of ,gilgal4 ,great ,events4 ,sunrise on the ,plain of ,jericho4 ,richness of the ,plain4 ,quarantania4 ,description of ,turkish ,soldiers4 ,the ,ride4 ,banks of the ,jordan4 ,sources of the ,sacred ,river4 ,the ten ,fountains4 ,the three ,lakes4 ,descent and ,sinuosities of the ,river4 ,glen through which it flows4 ,flowers and ,trees on its ,banks4 ,birds in its ,shrubbery and ,beasts in its ,thickets4 ,its ,color4 ,depth4 ,rapidity4 ,twenty-seven ,rapids4 ,falls4 ,islands in the ,river4 ,roman ,bridges4 ,brook ,jabbok4 ,jacob and the ,angel4 ,war ,scenes4 ,entrance of the ,jordan into the ,dead ,sea4 ,meaning of ,jordan4 ,pilgrim's ,ford4 ,charming ,scenery4 ,mountains of ,moab4 ,vision of ,balaam4 ,vision of ,moses4 ,his ,death4 ,crossing of the ,jordan by the ,israelites4 ,probable ,place4 ,overflowing of the ,river4 ,causes4 ,translation of ,elijah4 ,cure of ,naaman4 ,baptismal ,stations of ,john the ,baptist4 ,bethabara4 non4 ,scene of ,christ's ,baptism here4 ,the ,argument for it4 ,journey to the ,dead ,sea4 ,robbers4 ,features of the ,sea4 ,delightful ,bath4 ,dimensions of the ,sea4 ,its ,bed coeval with the ,upper and ,lower ,valleys4 ,sea larger than formerly4 ,no ,outlet4 ,its ,waters evaporate4 ,peninsula4 ,island4 ,surrounding ,mountains4 ,hot ,springs of ,callirrhoe4 ,sublime ,chasm4 ,castle of ,machaerus4 ,wild ,glen4 ,river ,arnon4 ,scenery4 ,city of ,kerak4 ,ruins of ,zoar4 ,location of ,sodom4 ,manner of its ,destruction4 ,mountain of ,salt1 cause of the saltness of the ,sea4 ,lot's ,wife4 ,ruins of ,masada4 ,besieged by ,flavius ,silva4 ,tragical ,death of #fjj ,sicarii1 their ,wives and ,children4 ,fountain of the ,kid4 ,david and ,saul4 ,maon4 ,the ,home of ,abigail4 ,journey to ,bethlehem4 ,wilderness of ,engedi4 ,a ,night with the ,monks of ,mr ,sba4 ,the ,monastery4 ,bethlehem4 ,its ,names4 ,antiquity4 ,history4 ,convent of the ,franciscans4 ,the ,stable of the ,nativity4 ,present ,condition4 ,pictures4 ,the ,manger4 ,tomb of ,st4 ,paula4 ,cell of ,st4 ,jerome4 ,basilica of ,st4 ,helena4 ,evidence that this is the ,birthplace of ,christ4 ,stable in a ,house4 ,situation of ,bethlehem4 ,population4 ,beautiful ,women4 ,herodium4 ,tomb of ,herod the ,great4 ,cave of ,adullam4 ,hiding-place of ,david4 ,its ,wonders4 ,,the road from ,jerusalem to ,jericho leads from ,st4 ,stephen's ,gate down the steep sides of ,moriah1 across the ,valley of the ,kidron1 over the southwestern shoulder of ,olivet1 near the village of ,bethany1 through the wilderness of ,judea1 and1 descending the ,mountain of ,quarantania1 terminates on the great ,plain of ,jordan4 ,it is another illustration of the accuracy of the sacred writers in their topographical allusions1 and another proof that only those who were familiar with the landwho had traversed its highways and noted its natural features1 could have written descriptions so minute1 and1 withal1 so incidental4 ,in his parable of the 8,good ,samaritan10 the ,savior casually states1 8,a certain man went down from ,jerusalem to ,jericho20 which not only indicates the relative position of the latter place to the former1 but also the descent of nearly #djjj feet from the ,jewish capital to the city of ,herod the ,great4 ,to the careful and candid observer1 such internal evidence of the ,bible is ever forcing itself upon his attention1 and calling forth expressions of wonder and admiration for the truth-telling chroniclers of our ,lord's life and ministry4 ,the 8latter rains0 had delayed our departure for the ,jordan1 and a farther delay had been caused by the high ,march winds1 which had so dried the surface of the earth1 and had filled the air with dust to such an extent1 that for the space of a whole day the ,mount of ,olives was invisible even to one standing upon the wall of the city4 ,but the charms of a ,syrian spring morning soon returned1 and at an early hour we were in the saddle1 waiting impatiently for the caravan to rendezvous at the ,garden of ,gethsemane4 ,it was a day peculiar to the ,promised ,land1 for the blandness of the sky and the softness of the air4 ,the foliage on shrub and tree wore every shade of green1 and the lovely flowers that covered vale and hill-side recalled the beautiful lines of ,shelley3 8,and the spring arose on the garden fair1 ,like the spirit of love felt every where2 ,and each flower and herb on earth's dark breast ,rose from the dreams of its wintry rest40 ,our dragoman had agreed to furnish horses1 tents1 board1 and military escort for the journey at six dollars a day per capita4 ,the escort is indispensable1 for he who goes down to ,jericho without a guard 8falls among thieves10 and1 though it is only a question of time when the traveler is robbed1 whether prior to the tour or afterward1 yet1 for the sake of convenience1 the former is preferable4 ,he is robbed before the journey by the government1 which insists that every pilgrim must pay for its protection2 he is robbed on the journey by the organized banditti of the ,ghr1 whose depredations the government winks at1 if it does not connive with the thieves themselves4 ,it was ten o'clock ,a4,m4 when the caravan moved4 ,happily for the social amenities their society afforded and the smiles of joy their presence never failed to impart1 we were joined by the talented and amiable wife and daughter of a distinguished ,new ,yorker1#bde who was making the tour of ,palestine4 ,mounted on their swift ,arabian horses1 and tilting their long burnished spears1 the ,arab guard led the way1 followed by the ladies on gentler horses1 while the heavy-laden mules1 carrying tents1 baggage1 and cuisine1 brought up the rear4 ,on our right lay the ,valley of ,jehoshaphat1 with its monumental tombs2 on our left were the terraced slopes of ,olivet1 green with verdure and bright with flowers2 while before us rose the rugged ,hill of ,offense4 ,crossing the shoulder of the ,mount of ,olives1 the path sweeps abruptly to the east1 and1 after winding round the head of the small valley that furrows the hill-side1 descends eastward past the place where the ,redeemer paused to weep over ,jerusalem1 and just beyond skirts the town of ,bethany4 ,descending between rough and barren hills1 we entered a rocky glen1 and in half an hour came to the fountain of ,el-,haud1 the 8waters of ,enshemesh10#bdf marking the boundary-line between ,judah and ,benjamin4 ,it is the halting-place of caravans1 and its cool1 sweet water1 flowing into a stone trough beneath a ,saracenic arch1 is alike refreshing to man and beast in a region so waste and arid4 ,continuing down the glen for more than an hour1 we turned to the left1 and soon began the ascent of a wild ravine1 the sides of which are limestone1 streaked in graceful curves with dikes of porphyry4 ,as the farewells of cultivation1 and half rebuking ,nature for her general sterility1 a stray flower peeped above the rocks1 and a stunted tree stood in silent desolation on the hill above4 ,gradually ascending over chalky hills1 our path lay through the bleak ,wilderness of ,judea4 ,at noon we reached the summit of the central ridge between ,enshemesh and ,jericho4 ,neither pen can describe nor pencil sketch the forbidding aspect of this dreary spot4 ,the hills are broken into a thousand rugged1 barren peaks1 and in color are a mixture of yellow and of a dull red and white4 ,the intervening valleys are dry and stony1 and on all that blighted soil there is neither shrub1 flower1 blade of grass1 nor any living thing to relieve the dreariness of the accursed scene4 ,fit abode for the devil and his angels1 the counterpart of ,pandemonium1 it was hither the ,spirit led the suffering ,son of ,god to encounter the ,evil ,one4#bdg ,for twenty centuries this region has borne a thievish character1 and the lapse of time has not changed its reputation4 ,as in the days of our ,lord1 it is still infested with robbers1 who1 from their undiscovered dens1 or from behind some craggy bluff or beetling cliff1 level their long gun at the unwary traveler4 ,suggested by the dangers of the route1 the desolation of the spot1 and the remains of an ancient caravansary1 tradition has identified it as the scene of the parable of the 8,good ,samaritan40 ,hard by the roadside are broken walls1 fragments of an arch1 and deep vaults1 said to mark the site of that inn to which the 8certain man was brought who went down to ,jericho and fell among thieves40#bdh ,resuming our journey1 we began rapidly to ascend1 and soon came upon portions of an old ,roman road dating back to the reign of ,herod the ,great4 ,winding downward amid chalky hills and through narrow rocky defiles1 we at length reached the brow of that sublime gorge through which the brook ,cherith flows4 ,like a silver thread1 the stream is seen flowing between banks bright with oleanders4 ,it is here ,elijah was fed by the ravens while the famine raged in ,palestine4 ,rising like massive walls five hundred feet high on either side1 the mountains cast their deep shadows into the profound chasm below4 ,in their precipitous sides the anchorites have burrowed their solitary cells1 and on the loftier crags the ,syrian eagle builds his eyrie4 ,increased by the sombre foliage of the stunted shrubbery clinging to the rocks1 there is a solemn grandeur in this mountain gorge1 reflecting the sturdy character and rugged life of the great prophet of ,tishbeh4 ,skirting the very verge of the cliff1 the winding path descends five hundred feet to the bottom of the glen1 where the white rocks reflect the heat like the blast of a furnace4 ,bearing the ,arabic name of ,el-,kelt1 we soon reached the verdant banks of the prophetic brook4 ,the waters are clear1 cool1 and sweet1 but in early autumn1 as in the time of ,elijah1 the stream becomes dry1 and as then1 so now1 the black-winged raven croaks in its flight over the deep ravine4#bdi ,the ,cherith flows through the ,valley of ,achor over the ,plain of ,jericho1 and1 meandering as it advances1 is lost amid the shrubbery surrounding the castle of ,rha4 ,refreshed by its delicious waters1 we ascended the northern bank of the streamlet1 and were soon in the ,vale of ,achor1 where ,achan was stoned to death4#bej ,illustration3 ,,raven4 ,like the enchantment of a mirage1 the ,plains of the ,jordan1 green and well-watered1 now burst upon our view1 and beyond appeared the trans-,jordanic mountains4 ,following the sinuous banks of the ,kelt1 we reached the foot of the descent late in the afternoon1 and1 turning northward1 pitched our tents near the ,fountain of ,elisha4 ,the sun had gone down behind ,mizpeh and ,gibeon2 the shadows of ,quarantania lay darkly on the plain2 the bleating flocks on the distant hill-side had gathered round the shepherd of the ,ghr2 the stars came out one by one from their empyrean abode1 and we lay down to slumber amid the ruins of ancient ,jericho4 ,two cities1 neither identical in site nor history1 have borne the name of ,jerichoone belonging to the age of the prophets1 the other founded by ,herod the ,great and visited by our ,lord4 ,the remains of the former consist of six mounds of rubbish and two noble fountains1 located half a mile from the foot of the mountain pass4 ,these mounds vary in height from ten to forty feet1 and in like proportions in their circumference4 ,around their bases and on their sides and summits are the dbris of old buildings1 such as heaps of hewn stone and fragments of pottery1 and within them are the entombed dwellings and palaces of the ancient city1 remaining for future excavations to uncover4 ,situated on this magnificent plain1 the walls and towers of the older ,jericho attracted the attention of the ,israelites1 who from the mountains on the other side of the ,jordan looked down with delight upon this1 the first city of ,canaan which they had seen4#bea ,hither came the spies to 8search out the country20 here lived the friendly ,rahab1 who secreted the two ,israelites under the 8stalks of flax which she had laid in order upon the roof20 to the west are the mountains whither she sent them to elude pursuit2#beb and around these mounds stood the walls which were miraculously thrown down4#bec ,dooming the city to perpetual destruction and infamy for the gross idolatry of the inhabitants1 ,joshua pronounced a curse upon him who should attempt to rebuild it1 which #eej years thereafter was singularly fulfilled in the days of ,ahab4#bed ,here the embassadors of ,david1 whom ,hanun1 king of the ,ammonites1 so shamefully treated1 were ordered to remain 8till their beards were grown40#bee ,subsequently to the reconstruction of the city by ,hiel1 it became the seat of the famous school of the prophets4#bef ,from it ,elijah and ,elisha passed over the plain to the ,jordan1 and1 crossing the river by a miracle1 the former was translated1 and the latter1 returning to the city1 reluctantly consented that fifty of the sons of the prophets should ascend the mountains of ,moab to search for ,elijah4#beg ,delighted with its pleasant situation1 and desiring to make it their permanent abode1 the young prophets requested ,elisha to heal the fountain and restore fertility to the land2 and after the miracle1 the effects of which are apparent to this day1 the successor of the renowned ,tishbite left ,jericho for ,bethel4#beh ,the fountain which the prophet healed is now called ',ain es-,sultn1 and gushes forth from the base of a double mound4 ,the water is cool and sweet1 and1 after pouring into a large semicircular reservoir1 flows in random streamlets to the ,jordan4 ,less than three miles to the northwest is the more copious fountain of ',ain ,dk1 supplied from two springs bursting out of the southern bank of ,wady en-,narwaimeh4 ,the water is conducted by an aqueduct along the base of ,quarantania to sugar-mills half a mile distant from ',ain es-,sultn2 but1 as the mills are now in ruins1 this fine stream performs no higher work than to water a few gardens of cucumbers in the vicinity of its source and along its course4 ,around these springs are strewn the remains of the celebrated ,castle of ,doch1 in which ,simon ,maccabus was murdered by his son-in-law ,ptolemy4#bei ,abandoning the site of the ancient city1 ,herod the ,great founded the ,jericho of the ,new ,testament on the banks of the ,cherith1 a mile and a half to the south4 ,around it were the palm-groves and balsam-gardens which ,antony presented to ,cleopatra1 and which the ,idumean farmed of the ,egyptian queen4#bfj ,selecting it as one of his royal cities1 ,herod adorned it with a palace1 a hippodrome1 and other magnificent buildings4 ,here he entertained ,cleopatra in a sumptuous manner1 and here he terminated his life4 ,from this palace he was borne1 amid unrivaled funeral pomp1 over the southern plain1 and up to the wild pass of ,nukb el-,kuneiterah1 to be interred on the summit of ,herodium1 in the splendid mausoleum which he himself had constructed at great expense during his reign4#bfa ,more than thirty years after the death of this royal monster1 ,jericho was visited by ,christ1 in his frequent tours from the ,land of ,moab to ,judea4 ,here resided the rich publican ,zaccheus1 with whom ,jesus lodged2 by the side of some of its thoroughfares blind ,bartimeus sat1 whom the compassionate ,savior restored to sight2 and from scenes so tender he ascended to ,jerusalem1 to make his triumphal entry into the ,holy ,city4#bfb ,not two miles to the southeast is the ,arab town of ,rha4 ,it is small and filthy1 and contains a few hovels occupied by from fifty to one hundred inhabitants1 who are guilty of the sins of ,sodom4 ,within a rude court-yard is the only reservoir of the village1 and near it stands a rough stone tower thirty feet square and forty high4 ,it is the barrack of the ,turkish garrison1 stationed here for the protection of the government lands1 for the defense of the peasants of the ,ghr1 to collect the taxes imposed upon the miserable villagers1 to punish offenders1 and to serve as the escort of travelers en route for the ,jordan and the ,dead ,sea4 ,though bearing the name of ,jericho1 it is more probably the site of ancient ,gilgal4 ,in view of the silence of historians on the point1 it is impossible now to decide whether ,gilgal was the name of a city or the designation of a tract of land1 though the former is more in harmony with the scriptural account of the place4 ,accepting ,josephus as authority1 ,gilgal was ten stadia1 or less than a mile and a half1 from ,jericho1 and fifty stadia1 or more than six miles1 from the ,jordan4#bfc ,the old ,tower of ,rha coincides in its location with this description1 and may be regarded as indicating with sufficient accuracy the scene of so many memorable events4 ,few names in sacred history recall scenes more thrilling and momentous than ,gilgal4 ,removing the twelve monumental stones from the bed of the ,jordan1 ,joshua caused them to be placed here as the memorial of the miraculous dividing of the river2#bfd around them the ,israelites first pitched their tents within the ,promised ,land2#bfd here they rolled away the reproach of ,egypt by the renewal of the rite of circumcision2#bfe here they kept the ,passover for the first time in ,canaan2#bff here ,joshua saw1 in a day-vision1 the captain of the ,lord's host 8standing over against him with his sword drawn in his hand20#bfg and here the tabernacle was first set up in ,palestine1 where it remained till removed to ,shiloh4#bfh ,four centuries later ,samuel held his court nigh unto this ruined tower1 and offered sacrifices for the people then assembled4#bfi ,here ,saul of ,gibeah was made ,king of ,israel1#bgj and two years thereafter1 upon the very spot of his coronation1 he lost his kingdom by acting 8foolishly40#bga ,after the death of ,absalom the tribe of ,judah assembled here to hail the return of ,david4#bgb ,and here1 in the reign of ,jehoram1 ,elisha healed the poisoned pot1#bgc restored ,naaman to health1 and cursed ,gehazi with leprosy for his cupidity4#bgd ,the sun rose upon the ,plains of ,jericho after our first night's slumber among the ,arabs of the ,ghr1 reflecting a pale yellow light through dense masses of mist which obscured from view the summits of the distant mountains4 ,ascending the loftiest spur of ,quarantania1 a landscape of extraordinary character lay before me4 ,stretching from the northern shore of the ,lake of ,tiberias to the southern coast of the ,dead ,sea1 the valley of the ,lower ,jordan unfolded to the eye its manifold and marvelous features4 ,a hundred and twenty miles in length1 ten in breadth1 and #acab feet below the level of the ,mediterranean1 it is among the greatest geological wonders of the globe4 ,from sea to sea lofty mountains bound this great chasm on either side4 ,rising thousands of feet above the river terrace1 the ,moab range forms the eastern wall of the great valley1 while the ,heights of ,galilee1 the ,mountains of ,samaria1 and the ,hills of ,judea run along its western border4 ,broken and barren1 the sides of these mountains are furrowed with deep ravines1 the frequented passes to the plains below4 ,as far as the eye can reach1 the deep1 tortuous bed of the ,jordan is seen along its eastern side1 the turbid waters of which remain unseen till viewed from the second terrace of the stream4 ,the broadest portion of the ,jordan valley1 the ,plain of ,jericho is not unlike in form a vast semicircle4 ,not ten miles long1 it is less than eight broad from the roots of the western mountains to the banks of the river4 ,on the south is the ,dead ,sea1 on the east the ,jordan1 on the north are the ,hills of ,judea dipping into the rushing river1 and on the west is ,quarantania rising #bjjj feet above its base4 ,level in the centre1 but gently undulating toward the north and south1 it has a soil of inexhaustible fertility2 and abundantly watered by its numerous fountains1 its groves of zukkm1 its beautiful willows1 its verdant meadows1 its flowers and rank weeds growing luxuriantly1 sustain the scriptural allusion to 8,jericho1 the city of palm-trees10#bge and the prophetic blessing1 the promise of perennial fruitfulness4#bgf ,such was its fertility in the 8,middle ,ages10 that the cultivation of the sugar-cane1 with other products1 yielded the nuns of ,bethany an annual revenue of #be1jjj1bgg and by the application of scientific agriculture1 would again become1 in the language of ,josephus1 a 8divine region40#bgh ,illustration3 ,,plain ,,of ,,jericho ,,and ,,view ,,of ,,the ,,dead ,,sea ,,from ,,the ,,north4 ,called ,quarantania to indicate the forty days during which the ,son of ,god endured the assaults of the ,evil ,one upon its summit1 the ,mount of ,temptation is sterile and gloomy4 ,the rocks are white and naked2 the sides are perforated with the cells of hermits1 who1 retiring from society1 hope by the rigors of a solitary life to obtain a better world2 and the summit is crowned with a small chapel1 the only monument of the ,redeemer's triumph over the ,prince of ,darkness4 ,in the lower caves some wild ,bedouins1 with their families1 had taken refuge1 and near them were shepherds keeping their scanty flocks4 ,the sun had mounted high above the thick mists1 which at an earlier hour had veiled his brightness1 when ,i returned to the encampment4 ,weary in waiting my return1 the caravan had moved1 and ,i was left alone among the 8thieves of ,jericho40 ,the sight of a revolver extorted from a skulking ,arab the direction the party had taken1 and applying whip and spur1 ,i dashed through the jungle on the banks of the ,cherith1 and in half an hour rejoined it4 ,on reaching ,rha we obtained an additional escort4 ,our military guard now consisted of six soldiersfive ,bedouins and their sheikh4 ,though wild in their exterior1 there was a rude grandeur in the soldiers of ,rha4 ,each wore a loose garment of camel's hair1 with openings in the side for the free play of the arms1 a pair of rough sandals on his otherwise naked feet1 and a bright-colored shawl of ,broosa silk thrown carelessly on the head1 and held firmly by an elastic cord1 the ends of the shawl hanging loosely down4 ,each carried a brace of pistols and a pair of daggers in his girdle2 over the shoulder was slung a long gun1 by the side dangled a ,damascus blade1 and in the hand was borne a lance fifteen feet long4 ,the saddle of each was large1 with the bow terminating front and rear in a pommel4 ,the stirrups were of sheet iron1 fourteen inches long and seven wide1 gently curving1 the lateral edges turned upward4 ,each was mounted on a small but swift and spirited horse1 and the captain of the band was followed by a pack of hounds used for hunting gazelles4 ,their speed was wonderful4 ,proud of their splendid horsemanship and willing to excite our admiration1 these rude soldiers of the ,desert gave proof of their marvelous skill and daring1 darting forward with the suddenness and celerity of the thunderbolt over hill1 through gully1 over rocks1 through briers1 over streams1 through thickets1 tilting the spear as they rode1 as if to plunge it into some advancing foe4 ,for half an hour our path lay through a jungle of thorny shrubs1 beyond which was an open plain4 ,the day was glorious2 the air balmy2 the sun shone through a gauze-like haze2 the leafy songsters1 from their sylvan coverts along the streamlets1 8caroled the melody of their song40 ,our horses were fleet1 our spirits buoyant1 and over that noble plain we rode with unbounded delight4 ,both in kind and richness the soil varied as we advanced4 ,now it was barren and covered with a thin1 smooth1 nitrous crust1 through which we sank as in ashes2 again it was rich1 bearing groves of fruit-trees1 tufts of the feathery tamarisk1 and beautiful oleanders1 with their finger-like leaves and tulip-shaped flowers4 ,at ten ,a4,m4 we reached the first terrace1 or highest bank of the ,jordan1 composed of irregular hills of clay1 and measuring twenty feet deep4 ,here our soldiers sallied forth1 plunging into the dense thickets and sweeping like lightning around the hills to discover the robbers and save us from surprise4 ,in fifteen minutes more we had descended to the second terrace1 and five minutes thereafter we stood on the banks of the most sacred and renowned river in the world4 ,other rivers are deeper1 broader1 longer1 but the ,jordan is unsurpassed in the peculiarities of its source1 the sinuosities of its channel1 the glories of its history4 ,springing from the heart of anti-,libanus1 ten crystal fountains pour their eternal waters into its descending current4 ,from the base of snow-capped ,hermon three noble fountains send their united contributions southward1 feeding the ,river ,hasbny4 ,situated forty miles to the north from the head of ,lake ,tiberias1 the first is the ,fountain ,fuarr1 at ,hasbeya1 and is the remotest perennial source of the ,jordan2 the second is called ,sareid1 located south of ,kefr ,shubah2 the third is ,luisany1 near ,el-,ghujar4 ,eighteen miles to the south from ,hasbeya is the largest permanent fountain in the world1 known as ,el-,leddn4 ,its pure waters gush forth from the foot of the green hill of ,el-,kdy1 and1 after forming a pool1 they flow southward in a broad stream1 increased in its course by many rills creeping from beneath noble oaks1 and at length it joins the ,hasbny seven miles north of ,lake ,merom4 ,four miles to the east from ,el-,kdy is the ,fountain of ,banias1 next in size to that of ,el-,leddn1 but which1 unlike the latter1 originates in many rivulets1 which1 uniting1 rush on to a confluence with the ,leddn1 and1 a mile below the junction1 join the ,hasbny4 ,farther to the south the fountains of ,derdara1 ,ruahiny1 and those of ,belt1 ,blta1 and ,el-,mellhah1 unite with the same stream1 which1 after flowing southward for six miles over the lovely ,plain of ,hleh1 spreads out into ,lake ,merom1 on whose shores ,joshua achieved his final triumph over the banded kings of ,canaan4#bgi ,four and a half miles in length and three and a half in breadth1 this gem of the lakes is the first gathering together of the waters of the ,jordan from their perennial springs4 ,the lake having a triangular form1 the river issues through the apex1 and1 after running nine miles with a fall of #fej feet1 expands into the ,sea of ,galilee1 which is thirteen miles long and six wide4 ,the inlet to the sea is seventy feet broad1 and the waters1 flowing between alluvial banks1 are lazy and turbid4 ,purified in their passage through this second reservoir of the ,jordan1 they find an outlet in the southwest corner of the sea4 ,here the river is more than ninety feet wide1 the banks are high and round1 and the contiguous mountains rugged and barren4 ,half unwilling to leave the parent waters to take the headlong leap over twenty-seven rapids to the ,sea of ,death1 the ,jordan turns back upon itself2 but1 forced at length to return by the unyielding rocks1 it cuts a channel westward1 then west by south1 when1 impelled by the unchanging law of gravitation1 it rushes madly southward1 foaming and leaping downward #gjj feet in less than sixty miles4 ,though1 between the seas as the crow flies1 the actual distance is not more than sixty miles1 yet1 owing to the infinite multiplication of its windings1 it is more than #bjj miles in length4 ,the tortuous glen through which it flows varies in breadth from #bjj to #fjj yards1 and in depth from fifty to eighty below the surrounding plain4 ,the sides of the glen are abrupt and broken1 composed of marl and clay intermixed with limestone4 ,where it is widest1 the bottom is mud covered with reeds2 where it is narrowest1 it is rock and sand4 ,along its banks grow in rich profusion the scarlet anemone1 the yellow marigold1 the water-lily1 the feathery tamarisk1 the pink oleander1 the ,syrian thistle with its gorgeous purple blossom1 and cane-reeds1 oaks1 willows1 and wild pistachios4 ,amid foliage so rich and rare are birds of exquisite plumage and variant song4 ,disporting in the water are herons and ducks2 dancing from bower to bower are sparrows1 swallows1 and nightingales2 wheeling their tireless flight over stream and shrub are eagles1 partridges1 hawks1 and snipes1 while storks spread their vast wings along the banks1 and 8,the moping owl does to the moon complain ,of such as1 wandering near her secret bower1 ,molest her ancient solitary reign40 ,in the deep1 impenetrable jungle1 extending for miles in depth along either bank1 is now1 as formerly1 the hiding-place of the leopard1 the wild boar1 and tiger4 ,in color the ,jordan is not unlike the ,tiber4 ,in breadth it varies from eighty to #bdj feet2 in depth it is from two to sixteen feet2 in motion it flows from two to twelve knots an hour1 bearing on its yellow bosom1 as it rolls to the sea1 the dbris of northern forests4 ,in its descent there are wild cascades1 down which the foaming torrent leaps eleven feet1 at the rate of twelve miles an hour4 ,throughout its sinuous course there are twenty-seven rapids1 some of which are #ijj feet long1 and the shallow waters foam as they pass over the large boulders of sandstone and trap4 ,below the longest rapid there is a series of five falls1 having a descent of eighteen feet1 with rapids between them2 and at ,el-,bk'ah there is a whirlpool grand and dangerous4 ,at intervals1 where the channel is deep and free from rocks1 a boat might glide with ease and pleasure4 ,in the broader portions of the river bed there are islands1 some barren1 others verdant and flowery4 ,near the four well-known fords are the remains of old mills1 with their sluices1 and the ruins of ancient bridges of ,roman construction1 pointing us back to a better civilization1 and reflecting the genius1 industry1 and utility of a former age4 ,at ,semakh1 a mile south of the ,lake of ,tiberias1 are the abutments of a fine bridge of ninety feet span1 and at ,zurka are the remains of a nobler structure4 ,illustration3 ,,shooting ,,the ,,rapids4 ,midway the two seas the ,brook ,jabbok flows into the ,jordan4 ,descending through a deep ravine1 amid the loftiest of the ,ajln range1 its volume is swelled by the mountain torrents1 rendering it at times impassable4 ,its banks are fringed with tamarisks and oleanders1 the clustering flower of the latter imparting a gorgeous aspect to the scene4 ,as three thousand years ago the ,jabbok was the boundary between the kingdoms of ,sihon and of ,og1#bhj so this modern ,zurka is the dividing line between the province of ,belka and that of ,ajln4 ,somewhere on its banks occurred one of those thrilling events so common in the patriarchal history4 ,coming from the distant home of ,laban1 enriched with the rewards of twenty years' industry1 and blessed with a numerous family of children and servants1 the patriarch ,jacob halted on the northern bank of the ,jabbok1 and that night wrestled with an angel4 ,and as the light of the coming day dawned1 down the glens and sides of the southern mountain the chieftain of ,seir came1 with his four hundred warriors4 ,hoping to appease ,esau's anger by the gentleness of his manner1 ,jacob crossed the brook1 and1 forgetting the enmities of boyhood1 the twin brothers embraced and were reconciled4 ,parting1 ,esau returned to his mountain home1 and1 fording the ,jordan here1 ,jacob ascended by the beautiful ,tirzah1 and dwelt in the ,vale of ,shechem4#bha ,centuries later1 this brook was the scene of events less peaceful4 ,obeying the heroic ,gideon1 the men of ,ephraim took possession of this ford and slew the fugitive ,midianites2#bhb and ninety years thereafter the ,gileadites under ,jephthah1 descending from their native mountains1 held the passage of the stream1 and slew every ,ephraimite whose betraying tongue could not correctly pronounce the password ,shibboleth4#bhc ,the ,pilgrim's ,ford1 opposite ,jericho1 is no less enchanting in its natural scenery than it is memorable for its sacred associations4 ,a hundred feet wide and twelve deep1 the ,jordan sweeps by at the rate of six knots an hour4 ,from this point to the ,dead ,sea the river retains its general peculiarities of sinuosity1 of color1 of rapidity1 of banks1 and foliage4 ,the inlet to the ,asphaltic ,lake is three feet deep and #edj wide1 and here is the third and largest reservoir of the ,jordanits first and only stage of rest4 ,here it ends4 ,this being an ancient ford1 the western bank is worn down to the water's edge by the tread of many generations4 ,on either side willows bend their graceful limbs to touch the rapid stream1 tamarisks wave gently in the soft zephyrs1 oleanders bloom amid foliage of lighter and deeper green1 and the crystal streamlet from ,rha flows into the turbulent ,jordan among trees of statelier form4 ,a little to the south the banks are steep1 and the bottom is soft and covered with weeds and lacerating briers4 ,directly opposite1 the ,mountains of ,moab rise in all their rugged grandeur1 with their sides broken by deep ravines and their summits veiled in a purple haze4 ,forgotten in the lapse of time1 yet somewhere on those loftier peaks were the high places of ,baal1#bhd the 8field of ,zophim10#bhe and the 8top of ,peor10#bhf whither ,balak led ,balaam to curse ,israel4 ,from those summits of vision the prophet of ,pethor looked down upon the ,lord's chosen people1 but could not 8count the dust of ,jacob40#bhg ,he beheld them 8crouching like a lion10#bhh and1 in the rapture of his song1 exclaimed1 8,how goodly are thy tents1 ,o ,jacob1 and thy tabernacles1 ,o ,israel40#bhi ,under more auspicious circumstances1 a greater than ,balaam surveyed the ,land of ,promise from ,pisgah's top4#bij ,turning northward1 8his eye that was not dim0 swept the land of ,gilead unto the icy crown of ,hermon2 turning westward1 he beheld the distant hills of ,naphtali standing out against the sky2 nearer1 he saw the possessions of ,ephraim and ,manasseh2 directly before him was the ,land of ,judah and ,benjamin1 the ,city of the ,great ,king1 and the blue waters of the ,mediterranean beyond2 while at his feet lay the rich plain of ,jericho1 the 8city of palm-trees10 the first conquest of the triumphant arms of ,joshua4 ,in his tent1 or in some retired glen1 or on some solitary peak1 the son of ,amram wrote most of his inspired history2 and yonder1 when the work of his wondrous life was finished1 when the farewell view of the goodly ,canaan had been completed1 when he had given his final blessing to ,eleazar the priest1 to ,joshua the warrior1 8,moses1 the servant of the ,lord1 died there in the land of ,moab1 according to the word of the ,lord2 and he buried him in a valley in the land of ,moab1 over against ,beth-peor2 but no man knoweth of his sepulchre unto this day40#bia ,a tomb so vast was worthy of the worldwide influence of his life1 and the ,mountains of ,moab are the appropriate monument of a character so pure and a name so great4 ,the tradition that identifies this ford as the place where the ,israelites crossed the ,jordan is supported by the clear and simple statement that they 8passed over right against ,jericho40#bib ,the crossing1 however1 could not have been confined to this limited space4 ,here probably the priests crossed1 while the multitude sought a passage at every feasible point between the city of ,adam1 thirty miles to the north1 and the ,dead ,sea1 five miles to the south4 ,to facilitate the crossing1 this long section of the river-bed became dry1 which was necessitated both by the millions of people to cross1 and also by the impassableness of many portions of the banks4 ,the rendezvous was opposite ,jericho1 and as the swarming millions came up the western bank1 they turned northward and southward toward a common centre4 ,bearing the ark of the covenant1 the priests led the van1 and as their feet touched the water1 8the waters which came down from above stood and rose up upon an heap very far from the city of ,adam1 that is1 beside ,zaretan2 and those that came down toward the sea of the plain1 even the salt sea1 failed and were cut off1 and the people passed over right against ,jericho40#bic ,unlike the dividing of the ,red ,sea1 this was the cutting off or damming up of the waters on the north2 and the miracle is the more wonderful1 as at that time the river was more than ordinarily full4 ,the incidental allusion that the 8,jordan overfloweth all his banks all the time of harvest0#bid is equally true at the present day4 ,in the tropical climate of the ,jordan ,valley the harvest is many weeks earlier than on the mountains #acjj feet above it4 ,barley harvest occurring here in the middle of ,march and wheat harvest about three weeks later1 it is evident that the allusion refers to the harvest-time of the ,jericho plain4 ,at this time of year the ,jordan annually rises to the fullness of its banks1 and not unfrequently overflows them2 and1 though occurring in the dry season of the year1 the rise is owing to the melting snows on ,mount ,hermon1 and also to the heavy winter rains1 which1 having previously fallen on the ,hermon range1 and by ,march having percolated the sides of the mountains1 begin to swell the springs within them1 which1 being the sources of the ,jordan1 then commence and for weeks continue to pour an increased volume into the river channel1 permitting the traveler of to-day to behold the filling up and overflowing of the sacred river as it overflowed all its banks three thousand years ago4 ,more than five centuries later1 the ,jordan was here twice divided in one dayonce for the safe passage of ,elijah and ,elisha to the land of ,moab1 and again for the return of the latter to ,jericho2#bie and1 two years subsequently1 here the proud ,naaman bathed his leprous person and was made whole4 ,to one unacquainted with the three rivers mentioned in connection with his cure1 there is the appearance of pride and contempt in his language2 but in recalling1 in the moment of disappointment and chagrin1 the clear waters of the ,abana and ,pharphar1 in contrast with the yellow1 turbulent waters of the ,jordan1 the ,syrian warrior but indicated the correctness of his taste in preferring the 8rivers of ,damascus to all the waters of ,israel40#bif ,but after a cure so miraculous1 notwithstanding its inferior beauty1 the ,jordan must have been to him the noblest and most sacred of rivers4 ,as the baptismal station of ,john the ,baptist1 and the scene of our ,lord's baptism1 the ,christian contemplates this traditional spot with deeper1 sweeter interest4 ,but1 however sincere and intense may be the desire to identify the scene of an event so hallowed1 it is difficult to ascertain with certainty where that greatest of all baptisms occurred4 ,in general terms1 ,st4 ,luke describes ,john as coming into 8all the country about ,jordan20#big but1 with great precision1 ,st4 ,john designates two stations of the great ,baptist3 8,bethabara1 beyond ,jordan10#bih and 8non1 near ,salim40#bii ,signifying 8,the ,house of ,passage10 ,bethabara may have been the name of some well-known ford2 but the most eminent critics agree that ,bethany should be inserted in the text in the place of ,bethabara4#cjj ,finding it difficult to discover a ,bethany beyond the ,jordan1 ,origen1 in the early part of the third century1 changed the reading1 and others1 following his version1 place ,bethabara near the ,brook ,jabbok1 on the east1 and non on the west1 eight miles southeast from ,bethshean4#cja ,such locations1 however1 leave ,southern ,palestine without a baptismal station4 ,born in the south1 and from his ,judean home called to the great work of his mission1 ,john's ministry was commenced in the 8wilderness of ,judea40#cjb ,his first hearers were those of the ,jewish capital and of its adjacent towns3 8,then went out unto him ,jerusalem1 and all ,judea1 and all the region round about ,jordan40#cjc ,preferring a journey of six hours to one of two days1 the people of the south would naturally descend to this traditional ford1 where the ,baptist as naturally would be waiting to receive them4 ,and where else should ,jesus be baptized but where his ancient people had crossed the 8swellings of ,jordan10 and nigh unto the capital of his kingdom1 whose citizens had just received his forerunner8 ,having prepared the way of the ,messiah in ,judea1 and to accommodate the multitudes of the north1 and prepare them for the reception of the promised ,christ1 ,john ascended the river to the mouth of the ,jabbok1 where he baptized the inhabitants of ,samaria2 and ascending thirty miles farther1 to the ruined bridge of ,semakh1 he baptized the people of ,galilee4 ,his mission accomplished in ,southern1 ,central1 and ,northern ,palestine1 and compelled to leave the ,jordan at that season of the year to seek water suitable to drink1 ,john removed to the fountains of non1 eight ,roman miles southeast from ,scythopolis1 where there was 8much water10 and where he baptized 8strangers10 and those who had failed to attend his ministry at the river4 ,his latter days were spent in the north1 and mostly in ,tiberias1 the royal city of ,galilee1 where1 true to his high calling1 he reproved ,herod ,antipas for his connubial infidelity1 for which he was imprisoned and beheaded in the ,castle of ,machaerus1 near the scene of his earlier labors4 ,the sun was rapidly approaching the zenith when we left the ford for the ,dead ,sea4 ,to avoid a detour1 and also to shun the banks of the river1 which1 from their softness and steepness1 are never safe1 we crossed diagonally the great plain extending to the sea4 ,the heat was intense2 not a breath of air was stirring2 neither shrub nor flower appeared to gladden the eye2 no fountain was nigh to moisten our parched lips4 ,a deep purple haze veiled earth and sky1 obscuring the view of ,moab and the peaks of ,engedi2 and over that vast plateau of unrelieved desolation was spread a white sulphurous crust1 reflecting the light and heat4 ,near the mouth of the ,jordan a band of ,bedouin ruffians were holding an ominous consultation1 and keenly watching our movements4 ,from the head of the caravan came the shrill voice of the sheikh to 8close ranks10 while two soldiers dashed into the jungle to ascertain the design of the council4 ,intimidating the robbers by threats1 they returned1 assuring us that no attack would be made1 but advising us to keep close together4 ,at noon we stood upon the northern shore of the ,dead ,sea4 ,owing to the thick haze that obscured the mountains1 it seemed shoreless4 ,the smooth waters lay like molten silver1 silent and motionless1 sparkling in the sunlight and dazzling to the sight4 ,it was death robed in light4 ,the waters are clear as crystal and exceedingly brilliant1 and1 though intensely salt1 they are so soft that a bath in them is like bathing in oil4 ,when midway my person ,i began to rise1 and yielding to the soft hands that bore me up1 ,i reclined as upon the softest down4 ,to sink was impossible2 to float required no effort2 to read1 converse1 sleep1 was easy4 ,where the cuticle was bruised or broken a smarting sensation was experienced1 and for ten hours after the bath the hair remained stiff and the body felt as if it had been lubricated with oil4 ,gently sloping toward the sea1 the northern coast consists of sand and blackened pebbles1 and over its entire breadth are strewn quantities of drift-wood1 such as willow twigs1 broken canes1 and poplar branches1 thrown up by the violence of the waves when the sea is in commotion4 ,higher up is a terrace of bitumen1 soft and slippery1 and not unlike black clay4 ,neither shrub1 flower1 nor blade of grass1 nor shell1 can be found on all that lengthened beach4 ,illustration3 ,,dead ,,sea4 ,occupying the lowest portion of the ,jordan ,valley1 the ,dead ,sea is forty miles long1 from five to nine wide1 and from two to #acjh feet deep4 ,its greatest depth is #bfbj feet below the level of the ,mediterranean1 and #ebbj below the site of ,jerusalem4 ,having its greatest width midway the sea1 from ,ain ,jidy to the ,river ,arnon1 it is most shallow at its southern extremity1 and deepest in its northern section1 southwest from the thermal waters of ,callirrhoe4 ,not many yards from the eastern cliffs it is more than one hundred and seventy fathoms deep4 ,geologically considered1 the profound cavity containing this inland sea must be coeval with the conformation of the ,jordan ,valley on the north and the ,valley of ',arabah on the south4 ,this mighty chasm must always have been the bed of a great lake1 receiving the waters of the ,jordan and the mountain torrents1 together with those of the living springs which abound along the margin of the vale4 ,though much smaller then than now1 both ,abraham and ,lot must have looked down upon its waters4 ,originally confined within its deeper bed1 it has passed its primal limits by some convulsion or atmospheric phenomena as yet unknown4 ,the great difference in its depth1 from a third of a fathom to two hundred and eighteen fathoms1 together with the record of ,moses that the 8plain of ,jordan was well watered every where before the ,lord destroyed ,sodom and ,gomorrah1 even as the garden of the ,lord1 like the land of ,egypt as thou comest unto ,zoar10#cjd sufficiently indicates that the more shallow portions now overflown were once the rich green fields so tempting to the eyes of ,lot4#cje ,according to authentic history1 this vale was one of the cradles of the earliest civilization1 not only containing the five royal cities that were destroyed1 but also the cities of the ,phnicians1 who1 afterward removing to ,tyre and ,sidon1 rose to greatness in art1 science1 and commerce4 ,its present desolation is due to natural causes1 some of which are still apparent1 and though its waters must always have been more or less salt1 and its coasts must always have abounded in bitumen pits1 yet these are not inconsistent with the richness of its plains1 as attested by sacred and profane writers4 ,though the receptacle of the perennial ,jordan and of springs that never fail1 and though without an outlet its mighty caldron is never filled to overflowing1 and its waters have but a slight perceptible rise and fall4 ,situated #acab feet below the level of the ,mediterranean1 and shut in by high barren mountains of limestone1 its supply never exceeds the demand made by its rapid evaporation4 ,with the ,gulf of ,akaba thirty-five feet above the ,mediterranean1 it is inconceivable how the ,dead ,sea could ever have flowed southward over the plain of ',arabah to mingle its waters with those of the ,red ,sea2 and this impossibility is the more apparent from the fact that the waters of ',arabah flow into the ,dead ,sea from a water-shed midway between the two seas4 ,such curious facts at once disprove the hypothesis either that there is a subterranean outlet on the south1 or that1 prior to the fall of ,sodom1 the waters of the ,jordan flowed in a river channel through the 8,vale of ,siddim0 to mingle with those of the ,indian ,ocean4 ,evaporation was then1 as now1 the only outlet4 ,with the exception of a few semicircular plains1 the 8,salt ,sea0 covers the entire breadth of the vale1 in many places the mountains dipping into the waters without a footpath along the shore4 ,at the northwest corner there is a neck of land extending into the lake1 which1 when the water is low by increased evaporation1 is a peninsula1 but at high water its extreme point is a small island1 covered with ruins of great antiquity1 consisting of heaps of unhewn stones1 some of which retain their original position in the foundation of a building whose history is unknown2 and at the southeast angle of the sea1 near the ravine of ,kerak1 is a low1 broad promontory or cape1 extending four miles to the north up the centre of the lake4 ,wherever a brackish fountain trickles down the hill-side1 and flows over those little plains formed by the receding mountains1 there shrubs grow1 flowers bloom as in more genial climes1 birds sing sweetly as in more enchanting bowers1 and the ,arab1 with the traveler1 pitches his tent1 unaffected by the fancied deadly exhalations from the poisonous sea1 which only exist in the stories of poet and romancer4 ,the mountains that bound the ,asphaltic ,lake on the east and west are as remarkable for their native grandeur as for their historic associations4 ,those on the east are portions of the ,moab and ,edom ranges2 the one descending from the north and the other ascending from the south1 are separated midway the sea by the sublime chasm of ,el-,mjib4 ,the former is composed of sandstone1 with sections of limestone1 and with dikes and seams of trap rock1 over which are scattered quantities of post-tertiary lava1 pumice-stone1 and volcanic slag2 the latter is in part sandstone with strata of limestone2 while at the extreme south there is a post-tertiary deposit of carbonate of lime1 with sandstone disintegrated1 and with a mixture of sulphur and gypsum4 ,rising from #bjjj to #cjjj feet high1 the eastern range is rugged and barren1 and1 from a peculiarity in the atmosphere1 is perpetually veiled in a purple haze4 ,the sides are broken by twelve ravines desolate and wild4 ,less than ten miles from the northeast angle of the sea1 at the mouth of ,wady ,zrka ,ma'in1 are the warm springs of ,callirrhoe1 sending forth1 between grand and lofty sandstone cliffs1 a copious stream1 in whose thermal waters ,herod the ,great sought1 in vain1 relief from his loathsome disease4 ,it is twelve feet wide1 ten inches deep1 and has a temperature of #ie ,fahrenheit4 ,its banks are lined with canes and tamarisks1 and the pebbles are tinged with the sulphurous waters4 ,the chasm is #aab feet wide1 and from eighty to #aej high1 through which the torrent sweeps to the sea at the rate of six knots an hour4 ,high up the ravine is a pretty cascade1 with a perpendicular fall of six feet1 and below it the foaming waters rush over a succession of rapids4 ,in this sublime glen purple flowers bloom1 and ravens and butterflies wing their tireless flight4 ,on the very brow of the northern cliff stood the famous fortress of ,machaerus1 where ,john the ,baptist was beheaded4#cjf ,two miles to the south1 on the borders of a little streamlet1 is a grove of thirty date-palm-trees2 three miles farther is a bright cascade1 whose sparkling waters leap into the sea from the very mountain summit2 and five miles beyond is the ancient river ,arnon1 on whose banks ,balak met ,balaam1#cjg and which was the southern boundary-line of the ,amorites1 whose dominion ran northward to the ,jabbok4 ,this tract of land ,moses conquered from ,sihon1#cjh and for it the ,ammonites fought with ,jephthah#cji while it was possessed by the tribes of ,reuben and ,gad4#caj ,the ,arnon is a tributary to the sea1 eighty-two feet wide1 four deep1 and one hundred wide at its mouth4 ,the vast fissure through which it falls is ninety-seven feet wide1 and varies from #ajj to #djj feet high4 ,the cliffs are red1 yellow1 and brown sandstone1 and1 worn by the winds and rains1 resemble ,egyptian architecture4 ,in graceful curves the ravine winds inward1 and in its profound depths are huge boulders1 which have fallen from the summit above4 ,along the border of the torrent a few shrubs grow1 and gazelles descend to drink of its limpid waters4 ,fifteen miles to the south1 on a summit #cjjj feet above the sea1 stands the ancient city of ,kerak1 containing more than #cjjj inhabitants1 about equally divided into ,christians and ,moslems1 which is renowned in the history of ,jewish wars as the city whose king1 in a moment of desperation1 rather than surrender to ,king ,jehoram1 offered up his eldest son upon the town wall as a burnt-sacrifice1 so disgusting the ,israelites as to compel them to raise the siege4#caa ,from the mountain of ,kerak a wild ravine leads down to the reputed ruins of ,zoar1 near the shore1 to which ,lot fled when commanded to fly to the mountains above4#cab ,to the southwest from the ruins of ,zoar stood ,sodom and ,gomorrah1 with their companion cities of the plain4 ,covering a large area of what was once dry land1 the sea is here exceedingly shallow1 and the plains bordering on the southern coast give evidence of their former fertility4 ,these cities must have occupied this section of the vale1 or it would have been impossible for ,abraham to have seen the conflagration from ,hebron1 sixteen miles to the northwest4#cac ,but not a vestige of those renowned cities remains to designate the scene of their glory and shame4 ,the 8rain of fire0 was probably a shower of nitrous particles ignited by the electric flash1 which1 as it fell1 kindled to a flame the buildings of the cities1 constructed of bituminous stones and cemented by green asphalt4 ,formed of such combustible materials1 the conflagration of the towns must have raged with unwonted fury1 and the descending fire1 wrapping vale and mountain in a winding-sheet of flame1 must have precluded the possibility of escape4 ,but the preservation of ,zoar amid the general burning was a miracle of the highest order4 ,standing within the vale and hard by the neighboring towns1 but without the smell of fire about its dwellings1 it must have presented a singular spectacle1 surrounded by an invisible wall against which the burning waves madly dashed in vain4 ,the mountains on the western side of the ,dead ,sea1 like the hills of ,judea1 are limestone1 of a white1 red1 and yellow hue1 and1 rising from #ajjj to #bjjj feet high1 their sides are barren and rugged1 and broken into wild ravines4 ,at intervals the hills recede1 forming on the shore semicircular plains1 which1 being watered by brackish fountains1 are converted into salt marshes4 ,along the western coast large quantities of pure sulphur1 asphalt1 and pumice-stone abound4 ,in the southwest corner of the vale1 extending five miles to the northwest1 is a rugged ridge of hills composed entirely of mineral salt4 ,from a marshy delta1 coated with salt and bitumen1 a grand ravine leads up to this saline ridge1 called by the ,arabs ,jebel ,usdum4 ,the winter torrents have cut deep furrows in its sides from summit to base1 and the combined action of the rains1 and the burning siroccos that sweep over mountain and plain1 have rounded the faces of the cliffs4 ,the peaks rise in tiers1 while their roots1 in lesser hills1 project toward the sea4 ,far up the ravine1 between two higher cliffs1 is a lower ridge1 not unlike a pedestal1 on which is a singular pillar of pure solid salt1 round in front and angular behind4 ,resting on a pedestal sixty feet high1 the solitary column rises forty feet higher1 connected with the hill behind by an immense bar of salt4 ,this is the only resemblance to 8,lot's wife0 in the vale1 but can not be her1 as its position is in the wrong direction from ,zoar4 ,but the presence of such a mountain of salt1 whose base beneath the surface is washed by the waves1 and from whose summit large blocks of salt are carried down by the rains into the water1 sufficiently accounts for the extreme saltness of the sea4 ,on the marshy flats at its base is the 8,valley of ,salt10 where ,david slew 8eighteen thousand ,syrians10#cad and where ,amaziah1 at a later period1 slew 8ten thousand ,edomites40#cae ,situated on the brow of a lofty cliff #aejj feet above the sea1 and twelve miles north from ,usdum1 is ,masada1 the last refuge of the ,jews after the destruction of ,jerusalem by ,titus1 and the scene of the noblest heroism and of the most bloody tragedy in the annals of war4 ,separated by a deep ravine from the surrounding mountains on the north and south1 and attached to them on the west by a narrow ridge two thirds its height1 is a naked rock1 having a perpendicular face toward the sea1 and rising #gjj feet high4 ,standing two miles from the shore1 it is not unlike a pyramid in form4 ,though the summit is jagged and peaked1 it contains a level area for building purposes #cjjj feet in length and #abjj in width4 ,portions of four buildings are standing4 ,on the south are the remains of an ancient gateway with a pointed arch2 on the north stands a tower with a double wall of great strength1 and near it is a quadrangular ruin4 ,within the ancient wall1 which once completely encircled the rock1 are three large cisterns1 hewn in the solid rock1 and covered with white cement4 ,the largest of them is forty feet broad1 #ajj long1 and fifty deep4 ,adjacent to the wall are the remains of the old ,roman camps1 constructed by the besieging army of ,flavius ,silva1 apparently as complete as when abandoned centuries ago4 ,reared in the second century ,b4,c4 by ,jonathan ,maccabus as a strong defensive work1 the fortress of ,masada was enlarged and rendered impregnable by ,herod the ,great4 ,designed by him at once for a palace and a fortress1 he strengthened the position1 and connected with his royal apartments baths1 adorned with porticoes and colonnades4 ,confident of its impregnability1 here the ,idumean king deposited his rarest treasures against the day of danger4 ,prior to the fall of ,jerusalem1 the ,sicarii1 who had sworn never to submit to the ,roman arms1 obtained by treachery the possession of this fortress4 ,commanded by the bold and skillful ,eleazar1 #fjj of these patriots1 with their wives1 children1 and servants to the number of #ifg1 retired to ,masada as the last refuge of the ,jewish nation4 ,the strong-holds of ,machaerus and ,herodium had yielded to the powerful arms of ,lucilius ,bassus1 and now ,flavius ,silva1 his successor1 laid siege to ,masada4 ,cutting off all hope of succor from without1 and of escape from within1 by circumvallation1 the ,romans reared for the intended assault a mound of earth and stones1 on which they planted an iron-cased tower commanding the walls of the fortress1 and from which they drove the ,jews from their ramparts4 ,successful in gaining a position so advantageous1 the ,romans retired for the night with the intention of storming the fortress the following morning4 ,illustration3 ,,masada4 ,conscious of his inability to continue a successful defenseconvinced that any attempt to escape would prove disastroussatisfied that death awaited the garrison1 ravishment their wives1 and slavery their children1 that night ,eleazar called his faithful band around him1 and proposed self-destruction as the terrible alternative4 ,appalled by the thought of murder and suicide1 the heroic ,sicarii1 whose souls had never known the sensation of fear1 for a moment hesitated2 but1 upbraided for the want of true courage by their leader1 a frenzy seized them1 and1 each one grasping his wife and children in his arms1 after lavishing upon them the fondest tokens of affection1 they plunged their daggers to their hearts1 leaving the bleeding bodies lifeless upon the ground4 ,resolved not to survive a calamity so insupportable1 they prepared for their own destruction4 ,gathering the immense treasures of the palace together1 they consigned them to the flames2 then1 choosing by lot ten of their number to dispatch the rest1 each soldier threw himself down by his wife and children1 and1 grasping them in his arms1 offered his neck to the sword of his companion4 ,drawing lots who should be the last survivor of the ten and the executioner of the nine1 the lot fell on one who in turn was to dispatch himself4 ,the nine slain1 all the victims were examined to ascertain whether life was extinct2 then1 applying the torch to the palace1 and surveying for a moment the raging flames and the dead1 in families1 stretched upon the ground1 he lay down beside his wife and child1 and the last of the ,sicarii dispatched himself4 ,the morning dawned2 the command was given2 the ,romans rushed to the assault2 but1 on scaling the ramparts1 no foe appeared1 no sound was heard1 and1 lifting a shout of triumph1 they rushed to the palace4 ,their approach had startled from their retreat a sister of ,eleazar1 an elderly woman1 and five children1 who1 learning of the intended slaughter1 had secreted themselves in the vaults of the fortress4 ,when they refused to credit her story1 the sister of ,eleazar led the conquerors within the court-yard of the palace1 and pointed them to the dead who were too brave to be ,roman slaves4#caf ,fifteen miles to the north from the ,plain of ,masada is the ,fountain of the ,kid4 ,this beautiful spring is four hundred feet up the mountain side4 ,bursting from a limestone rock1 and rushing down over precipitous rocks1 and amid acacias and flowers1 it fertilizes a small plain extending to the beach1 and cultivated by the ,bedouins of the ,ghr4 ,near this fountain ,david was secreted when pursued by ,saul1 and in a cave near by he 8cut off the skirt of ,saul's robe privily40#cag ,up this pass the children of ,ammon ascended to attack ,jerusalem in the days of ,jehoshaphat4#cah ,originally celebrated for its vines and aromatic plants1 ,solomon compares his beloved to a 8cluster of camphire#cai in the vineyards of ,engedi40#cbj ,around this fountain now grow the 8apples of ,sodom40 ,the fruit grows in clusters upon a tree fifteen feet high and two in girth1 is of a yellow color1 and has such a blooming appearance as to tempt the traveler's appetite2 but1 on being pressed1 it explodes like a puff-ball1 leaving in the hand nothing but the rind and a few dry fibres4 ,on the summit of an adjacent hill are the ruins of ,maon1 the residence of the churlish ,nabal and his beautiful wife ,abigail1 and a mile to the north is the large fountain where this 8son of ,belial0 held his annual feast1 to whom ,david sent his famishing troops to ask permission to enjoy the festival as a reward for services which he had previously rendered to the ungrateful ,nabal4#cba ,the shrill call of the ,bedouin sheikh roused me from my reverie as ,i sat on the small island in the sea recalling the past and receiving imperishable impressions of the changeless features of the 8,vale of ,siddim40 ,that night we were to sleep with the monks of ,mr ,sba1 and the journey thither was long1 toilsome1 and dangerous4 ,filling a can with seawater1 and gathering mineral specimens from the beach1 we mounted4 ,the path lay across an undulating plain to the right of ,ain ,jehir1 whose brackish waters nourish a thicket of canes and a few pale flowers4 ,ascending the rugged pass of ,nukb el-,kuneiterah1 one skirted for an hour the verge of a yawning ravine1 the precipitous sides of which were as dangerous as the view below was grand and awful4 ,reaching in less than two hours the summit of the highest ridge1 the ,wilderness of ,engedi lay before us1 and through openings in the distant cliffs we caught farewell glimpses of the ,dead ,sea4 ,passing an encampment where the children were nude and the women unveiled1 we were glad to drink of ,arab leben1 or soured milk1 a beverage similar to that which ,jael gave ,sisera1#cbb which was brought to us in a goatskin bottle4 ,descending hills gray and barren1 and crossing verdureless plains1 we reached the ,vale of the ,kidron as the last rays of the sun were tipping the higher peaks of ,moab4 ,wild and grand1 the perpendicular sides of the gorge are more than #cjj feet high4 ,the limestone rocks are blackened with age1 and perched on the highest portion of the ridge is the famous ,convent of ,mr ,sba4 ,approaching night had now thrown a deeper shadow in the ravine below2 the skies reflected subdued light1 and from the transparent blue the stars began to shine4 ,the fatigue of the day had left the mind pensive1 and the silence of the hour was unbroken except by the chirping of some invisible songster4 ,winding round the brow of a bold cliff1 the gray towers of the ancient monastery stood out against the evening sky1 and from the uppermost turret a solitary monk in dark flowing robes was watching our approach4 ,the ponderous iron gate of the convent was thrown open1 and1 led by one of the fraternity through an interior court-yard1 where orange and lemon trees scattered their rich perfume1 we entered the 8,pilgrim's ,room40 ,like many other religious establishments1 the monastery of ,st4 ,sba rose from the devotion of a single hermit4 ,attracted by the solitude of the spot and the wild grandeur of the situation1 some time in the year #dhc ,a4,d41 ,st4 ,sba1 a native of ,cappadocia1 and a man of extraordinary sanctity1 founded the convent which bears his name4 ,his triumph over the 8,lion of the ,kidron0 attracted his fellow-anchorites to the glen1 to the number of #ad1jjj1 to share his glory and devotion4 ,from the cells which they excavated in the rocks gradually rose the walls1 towers1 chambers1 and chapels of the edifice2 and so curiously are the several parts arranged1 that it is difficult to determine the masonry from the native rock4 ,crowned with a dome and clock-turret1 the church stands on the brink of the highest cliff1 supported by enormous buttresses rising from the bed of the ,kidron4 ,the interior is after the ,byzantine order1 adorned with pictures1 ornamental lamps1 and sacred banners4 ,near the church is the charnel-house1 where the bones of the pious have been carefully preserved from the time of the patron saint to the last brother deceased4 ,the bodies of the dead are deposited in vaults till the flesh has wasted away1 when the skeleton is broken to pieces1 and the bones are piled up in ghastly array1 arm with arm1 leg with leg1 skull with skull4 ,illustration3 ,,convent ,,of ,,santa ,,saba4 ,though enlarged and beautified by monkish industry1 the cave in which ,st4 ,sba lived still retains its native rudeness4 ,among the pictures which adorn the walls is one representing the beheading of ,john the ,baptist4 ,the artist has transferred to the canvas the horror of the murder and the turpitude of the crime which led to the execution4 ,in the background is seen the martyr's cell1 with barred window and iron door4 ,robed in green garments1 the headless body of ,john lies prostrate upon the marble pavement1 while over it stands the fierce executioner1 holding in one hand his sword still dripping with blood1 and in the other the bleeding head4 ,with an air of triumphant revenge ,salome is approaching1 attired in ermine and adorned with a coronet of jewels1 and bearing on her hands a charger to receive the dissevered head of the faithful minister of truth and purity4 ,the morning was far advanced when the iron gates of ,mr ,sba opened for our departure4 ,the day was charming1 and the ride to ,bethlehem was one of extraordinary delight4 ,the spring clouds1 like softest gauze1 screened us from the otherwise burning rays of a ,syrian sun1 and a gentle breeze from the ,mediterranean came over the hills of ,judea 8fresh as the breath of morn40 ,it being early spring-time1 ,nature smiled in all her virgin beauty4 ,grasses and grains were ripening2 flowers every where were in bloom2 herds of cattle and flocks of sheep were feeding on the hills1 and high up in mid air three eagles screamed as they soared above us4 ,in an hour from the monastery ,jerusalem was seen to the north1 and half an hour beyond ,i for the first time saw ,bethlehem nestling among the ,judan hills4 ,a flood of childhood's memories rushed back to mind1 unsealing the fountain of emotion as when in boyhood ,i was accustomed to read the story of the new-born ,king4 ,on the south lay the ,plains of ,bethlehem1 where shepherds were watching their flockssome chanting a pastoral song1 others playing upon their rude flute4 ,the sterility of the wilderness had given place to cultivated fields1 and along the wayside grew a pretty blue flower1 of a stellar form1 called by the monks the 8,star of ,bethlehem40 ,passing through the small village of ,beit ,sahr1 we turned westward1 and1 ascending a well-made road1 in half an hour we passed beneath the ancient portal of the ,city of the ,nativity4 ,the streets were crowded with people1 and along the main thoroughfare were merchants selling fruits1 flowers1 grains1 vegetables1 cutlery1 saddlery1 clothing1 furniture1 and ornaments1 and mechanics of all kinds were pursuing their respective vocations4 ,illustration3 ,,view ,,of ,,bethlehem4 ,so long as childhood continues1 ,bethlehem will be cherished by the young1 and recalled with delight by those of riper years4 ,the synonym of helpless infancy1 mothers will revert to it with hope1 and the children of each generation will claim it as their common heritage4 ,as here the young mother pressed her tender offspring to her bosom for the first time1 ,bethlehem must ever remain the symbol of domestic affections and privacies4 ,originally called 8,the ,house of ,bread10 and now 8,the ,house of ,flesh10 its ,arabic name1 ,beit ,lahm1 contains the significance of its wondrous history4 ,to distinguish it from ,bethlehem belonging to the tribeship of ,zebulun1#cbc it is called by the sacred historian 8,bethlehem of ,judah20#cbd to preintimate its fruitfulness1 it was prophetically designated ,ephratah2#cbe to illustrate its rising glory 8among the thousands of ,judah10 it was announced as the birthplace of ,him 8whose goings forth have been from of old40#cbf ,in antiquity coeval with the oldest cities in the world1 its identity is unquestioned4 ,stretching backward thirty-six centuries1 its authentic history opens with the mournful death and burial of the beautiful ,rachel2#cbg and rendered imperishable by the sepulchral monument to that beloved wife1 #fjj years later it was the scene of the touching story of ,boaz and the youthful widow of ,chilion4#cbh ,giving birth to ,obed1 the father of ,jesse1 ,bethlehem1 less than #ajj years subsequent to the marriage of ,ruth and ,boaz1 was the birthplace of ,david1#cbi where1 at the tender age of seventeen1 he was anointed king over ,israel2 and1 in honor of events so illustrious1 it thereafter was called the 8,city of ,david40 ,during the reverses which befell ,saul of ,gibeah it was captured by the ,philistines1 and ,david1 having been declared a public enemy1 was compelled to fly to the cave of ,adullam4 ,after #ajjj years of comparative oblivion1 ,bethlehem suddenly emerged from obscurity into brighter and more enduring glory4 ,summoned by the ,emperor ,augustus to their native city to be taxed1 ,joseph and ,mary came from the hills of ,nazareth1 and1 reaching the town at the close of the day1 after a journey of eighty miles1 the mother of the ,messiah was compelled to lodge in the stable1 8because there was no room for them in the inn40#ccj ,that night the ,prince of ,peace was born2 the race commenced its life anew2 angels sang the song of the nativity2 wondering shepherds hastened to pay homage to the new-born ,king2 a lone but marvelous star arrested the attention of the magi of ,arabia ,felix2 and ,bethlehem rose to be 8greatest among the thousands of ,judah40 ,an event so great and memorable has rendered the city of the ,savior's birth a holy shrine1 at which the devout of all ages and countries have bowed with unspeakable delight4 ,and1 in commemoration of the event1 and to rescue the site from oblivion1 the ,emperor ,constantine1 in the commencement of the fourth century1 ordered the erection of a magnificent basilica over the 8,grotto of the ,nativity10 which is now the oldest monument of ,christian architecture in the world4 ,separated from the town by a long esplanade1 the church occupies the eastern brow of the hill on which the city is built1 and1 together with the three convents abutting from its sides1 forms an enormous pile of limestone1 vast in dimensions1 irregular in outline1 and1 though it is destitute of external architectural grandeur1 the size1 strength1 and commanding position of the edifice render it the chief attraction of the place4 ,the ,greeks1 ,latins1 and ,armenians hold joint possession of the basilica1 and adjoining it are the monasteries for the entertainment and devotion of their respective orders4 ,it was late one evening in the month of ,april that ,i rapped for admission at the iron door of the ,latin convent4 ,the ,franciscans received me kindly1 and1 after a generous meal1 an aged monk led me to my apartments for the night4 ,the convent bell called me early from my slumbers1 and1 ascending to the broad1 flat roof of the monastery1 ,i enjoyed an extensive view of the surrounding country4 ,the sky was soft1 the air pure1 and the sun was just rising above the mountains of ,moab4 ,the shepherd's shrill voice mingled with the tinkling of bells as he led his flock in search of pasture1 and the leaves of orange1 fig1 and olive trees shone like jewels as the dew-drops thereon reflected the morning light4 ,far away to the east are the ,plains of the ,jordan1 the mountains of ,gilead1 ,moab1 ,ammon1 and ,seir2 on the north the ,hills of ,judea are bleak2 on the west they are green as far as the eye can reach toward the 8,great ,sea20 on the south are the ,gardens of ,urts and the ,pools of ,solomon4 ,with a mind attuned by such a scene1 ,i read the romantic story of ,ruth and ,boaz1 the history of ,david's coronation1 and the more tender narrative of the ,savior's birth4 ,the past returned with all the reality of the present1 and history repeated its wondrous deeds before the eye of a sublime faith4 ,but the charm was broken in a moment by the chant of a funeral dirge4 ,just beneath me1 and near the convent wall1 a long procession of women was approaching1 following to its final rest the lifeless form of some daughter of ,bethlehem4 ,it was a singular hour for a burial4 ,except the men who bore the corpse1 there were no others present4 ,fifty women robed in white gathered about the grave1 and1 as a symbol of the abundant happiness of departed spirits1 each one bore upon her head a basket of bread1 and1 leaving it upon the tomb1 they all retired4 ,descending through the long halls of the monastery1 we found the monks differently engaged2 some were arranging their scanty toilets1 others repeating their prayers4 ,on each door is a rude picture illustrating the faith of the inmate1 and the subject he desired to be most frequently reminded of4 ,on one is a coffin2 on another are the lambent flames of ,purgatory2 but on most is the serene face of ,mary4 ,my guide rejoined me in the hall of the refectory1 and led me to the stable of blessed memory4 ,passing through the ,latin chapel1 where a priest was celebrating mass1 we descended a flight of narrow winding steps1 cut in the native rock1 at the foot of which is the sacred grotto4 ,thirty-eight feet long1 eleven wide1 and two deep1 it has the appearance of having been the cellar of a ,syrian house1 which1 according to a custom still prevalent1 serves as a stable4 ,near the eastern end is the supposed place of our ,lord's birth1 marked by a white marble slab1 in the centre of which is a large silver star1 encircled with an inscription in ,latin1 8,here ,jesus ,christ was born of the ,virgin ,mary40 ,sixteen silver lamps shed a perpetual light upon the shrine2 from golden censers incense unceasingly ascends1 while the walls are covered with silk embroidered with gold4 ,to the south is the substituted manger1 the original having been carried to ,rome and deposited in the church of ,santa ,maria ,maggiore4 ,above it is a fine picture of the birth-scene by ,maello1 and near it is a better one of the ,magi4 ,a narrow passage leads to the small grotto where ,joseph is said to have stood at the moment our ,lord was born1 and in it is a picture representing the angel warning him to take the young child and his mother and escape into ,egypt4 ,the angel's face is expressive of intense earnestness2 the countenance of ,joseph is calm and thoughtful2 while ,mary tenderly but firmly clasps her infant to her bosom4 ,illustration3 ,,cave ,,of ,,the ,,nativity4 ,following a glimmering light1 we entered a large sepulchral vault containing the dust of the departed members of the fraternity1 and from it passed to the 8altar of the infant martyrs0 slain by ,herod4 ,a picture above it commemorates the death of 8twenty thousand innocents10 and the old monk groaned as he looked upon it4 ,in an adjoining oblong chamber are altars dedicated to the memory of ,st4 ,paula and her daughter ,eustachia1 two eminent ,roman ladies1 who spent their days here in charity and devotion2 and near the altars are their tombs1 over which are the portraits of the saints4 ,their features are represented as sharp1 their expression pensive1 and over their heads an angel holds a wreath of glory4 ,not far from these sepulchres is the tomb of ,jerome1 and in the north end of the same chamber is the study of that eminent scholar4 ,here1 in a cell twenty feet square and nine deep1 around which runs a stone seat1 he spent most of his life1 producing those great works which have given immortality to his name4 ,here1 in the severities of monastic life1 he smote his body with a stone while imploring the mercy of the ,lord4 ,it was here he fancied he heard the peals of the trump of the last judgment incessantly ringing in his ear4 ,on the wall hangs a portrait of this great man4 ,the head is round and bald1 the face beams with intelligence1 by his side hangs a crucifix1 and behind him stands an angel sounding in his ear the trumpet of the last day4 ,reascending the narrow staircase1 we passed into the magnificent ,basilica of ,st4 ,helena4 ,in length #abj feet by #aaj wide1 the interior consists of a central nave and four lateral aisles1 formed by four rows of twelve ,corinthian columns in each row1 twenty feet high and two and a half in diameter1 supporting a horizontal architrave4 ,according to tradition1 these pillars were taken from the porches of the ,temple at ,jerusalem4 ,originally the roof and rafters were formed of cedar from the forests of ,lebanon1 but at present they are of oak1 the gift of ,king ,edward ,,iv4 when the church was last repaired4 ,the gold1 marble1 and mosaics which once adorned the walls of this noble edifice have been removed1 and by the mutual jealousies of the rival sects this grandest of ,eastern basilicas is in a neglected state4 ,the aspect of the interior is greatly injured by a partition wall separating the choir from the body of the church1 which in turn is divided into two chapels1 one belonging to the ,greeks and the other to the ,armenians2 on the north side of the choir is the ,chapel of ,st4 ,catharine1 occupied by the ,latins4 ,illustration3 ,,interior ,,of ,,the ,,church ,,of ,,the ,,nativity4 ,though we reject the unwarrantable grouping together in a single grotto of so many 8holy places0 as unfounded in fact1 and especially the particular spot where ,christ was born1 there is no reason for the rejection of the cave itself4 ,its history runs too far back to have its identity affected by the flood of monastic legends which followed the conversion of the empire1 and the historical chain is unbroken from the death of the ,apostle ,john to our own day4 ,a native of ,nablous1 and born in the beginning of the second century1 ,justin ,martyr describes the birthplace of ,jesus 8as a grotto in ,bethlehem20 one hundred years later1 ,origen refers to the fact as recognized by ,christians and pagans2 and1 a century after him1 ,eusebius mentions it as an accepted traditional spot1 and as so regarded prior to the time of ,st4 ,helena's visit4 ,crediting the tradition1 the mother of ,constantine caused to be erected the present basilica in the year #cbg ,a4,d41 and fifty years after its erection1 ,jerome of ,dalmatia1 with ,paul and ,eustachia1 settled in ,bethlehem1 where the great 8,father of ,church ,history0 expired1 in #dbj ,a4,d41 in his ninetieth year4 ,though the city fell into the hands of the ,moslems at a later period1 and the church was stripped of its ornaments1 yet the cave remained undisturbed2 and1 on their approach to ,jerusalem1 the ,crusaders retook ,bethlehem1 and in #aaaj ,a4,d41 ,baldwin ,i4 elevated it to the dignity of an episcopal see2 and1 notwithstanding the vicissitudes through which it has passed1 it is now a thoroughly ,christian town4 ,unlike the tradition identifying our ,lord's tomb1 the traditional history of his birthplace is unmixed with monkish miracles1 and the preservation of the site is as simple as it is natural4 ,in a land where the customs of the people never change1 all the incidents of the story of the birth of the ,savior are confirmed by modern usage4 ,it is no evidence of the poverty of ,joseph and ,mary that they failed to obtain lodgings in the inn1 as the decree of ,augustus had called home all citizens belonging to the town1 which1 being small1 was filled to overflowing2 nor is it proof of the humbleness of the holy family that they were compelled to lodge in the stable1 as to this day1 both in ,bethlehem and in other ,syrian cities1 kitchen1 parlor1 and stable are frequently under the same roof1 and often without a partition between them4 ,in going from ,jerusalem to ,nablous1 ,i stopped with a ,christian at ,beeroth1 near ,bethel4 ,his dwelling was a one-story house4 ,within was a raised platform not two feet high1 on which was arranged the furniture of his home2 at the foot of the platform was a space four feet wide1 and extending the whole depth of the building1 which was the stable1 and in one corner stood his ass4 ,and in a neighboring house a woman was kneading dough on the platform1 and a little girl was holding an infant1 and two feet from them stood the ass1 with his elongated head thrust into a stone manger excavated in the solid rock4 ,this order of domestic architecture throws light upon the apparent discrepancies of ,matthew and ,luke4 ,the former mentions a house in connection with our ,lord's birth2#cca the latter a manger1 thereby supposing a stable4#ccb ,but the historians refer to two distinct events,st4 ,luke1 to the night of the ,savior's birth2 ,st4 ,matthew1 to the visit of the ,magi1 which occurred some time later4 ,mary and her son may then have found room in the inn2 or1 if the visit of the wise men was simultaneous with that of the shepherds1 ,st4 ,matthew alludes to a house with a stable under the same roof1 and the entrance to which was through the main door of the dwelling4 ,bethlehem may be viewed with a pleasing confidence as the city where 8,god was manifested in the flesh10 and that from a place so humble influences have gone forth affecting the present condition and future hopes of the entire race4 ,since that wondrous child was born1 empires have passed away and generations have descended to the grave4 ,of that renowned empire1 whose proud emperor summoned ,mary to perform a journey of eighty miles in the rains of ,december1 not a fragment remains2 and of the ,herods who waylaid his infancy and persecuted his manhood1 not a descendant reigns over an inch of the broad earth4 ,but the kingdom of ,christ endures1 his subjects people both hemispheres1 and the song of the ,bethlehem songsters is yet to be the anthem of a redeemed world4 ,the situation of ,bethlehem is peculiar4 ,located on a narrow ridge projecting eastward from the central mountain range1 and breaking down in the form of terraced slopes1 it is bounded on the east1 north1 and south by deep valleys4 ,constructed of white limestone1 well built1 square in form1 and crowned with small domes1 the buildings rise above each other in somewhat regular gradations4 ,the streets are few and narrow1 and though the city is not surrounded with a wall1 it has two gates1 which are closed at night4 ,sweeping in graceful curves around the ridge1 and regular in their ascent as stairs1 the well-kept terraces are adorned with the vines of ,eshcol1 and with fig and olive-trees4 ,extending from the base of the hill toward the south and east are the fertile plains where ,ruth gleaned1 and where the glory of the ,lord shone around the peaceful shepherds4 ,numbering over three thousand souls1 the modern ,bethlehemites are superior in their appearance to the citizens of any other town in ,palestine4 ,the men are of light complexion1 with finely developed forms1 and1 in their affable demeanor and noble bearing toward the 8stranger within their gates10 are not unworthy descendants of ,boaz4 ,in the regularity of their features1 the freshness of their complexion1 and the sweetness of their countenance1 the women are not unlike those of ,america2 and as if the ,savior had bequeathed the beauty of his childhood to the children of his native city1 they are exceedingly fair4 ,so thoroughly ,christian in sentiment are the inhabitants1 that no ,moslem is allowed a residence within the town4 ,the ,cross is unrivaled by the ,crescent1 and ,christ reigns supreme where he was born4 ,while most of the people are either peasants or shepherds1 others are the manufacturers of 8pious wares10 such as beads1 crosses1 rings1 crucifixes1 and models of the ,holy ,sepulchre1 wrought out of olive-wood and mother-of-pearl4 ,five miles to the southeast from ,bethlehem is ,herodium1 the tomb of ,herod the ,great4 ,cherishing an ambition that knew no bounds1 and rivaling ,solomon in the magnificence of his reign and in the splendor of the cities of his kingdom1 ,herod sought renown in life by the power of his name and the perpetuity of his fame in death1 by rearing for himself a mausoleum which he vainly hoped would have continued complete to the latest generation4 ,conscious of the vicissitudes to which his empire city was subject1 and knowing that as he himself had rifled the sepulchre of ,david1 his in turn might be plundered1 he prepared for himself a tomb of great strength1 far from human habitation4 ,a ride of more than an hour brought us to the grave of this most execrable of monarchs4 ,being the last position held by the ,crusaders after the fall of ,jerusalem1 the hill bears the traditional name of 8,frank ,mountain20 but1 from the supposed luxurious life of ,herod1 the ,arabs call it ,jebel ,fureidis1 or 8,little ,paradise ,hill40 ,josephus1 however1 designates it ,herodium1 after the founder of the city which crowned its summit4 ,according to him1 it is sixty stadia from ,jerusalem1 and was designed by ,herod to be a military outpost1 protecting the inhabitants of the inland towns from the depredations of the ,bedouins of ,engedi1 and also to serve as a palatial retreat for the king and his court4 ,having subserved the double purpose of war and pleasure1 it at length fell before the powerful arms of ,lucilius ,bassus4#ccc ,illustration3 ,,tomb ,,of ,,herod ,,the ,,great,,herodium4 ,rising in the form of a truncated cone #djj feet from the crest of a round isolated ridge1 it resembles1 when viewed from the plain below1 some grand catafalco4 ,the ascent is up a circular path1 and the view from the summit imposing4 ,through openings in the cliffs the ,dead ,sea is seen to the east2 two miles to the southwest is the small town of ,tekoa1 the home of the wise woman whom ,joab called to plead before ,david in behalf of ,solomon1#ccd and the birthplace of the ,prophet ,amos2#cce and to the northwest are the white walls and domes of ,bethlehem4 ,at its northern base is a reservoir #bjj feet square1 from the centre of which rises a mound of earth like an island in a lake1 and near it are traces of the aqueduct1 which conveyed the water from a great distance4 ,the summit is an area #gej feet in circumference1 surrounded by a ruined wall of large hewn stones1 with a massive square tower at each angle4 ,within this inclosure are many vaults1 and the walls of what appears to have been an amphitheatre4 ,the latter is in the form of a three-quarter circle1 and on the south side are three large blocks of limestone1 so arranged as to suggest the idea that they were the royal seats from which ,herod and his courtiers beheld the dramatic and equestrian feats so pleasing to ,oriental kings4 ,to the northwest of this structure is a large vault1 which ,i succeeded in entering by creeping through a narrow opening4 ,the roof is a beautiful raised dome1 with a circular keystone in the centre1 and on the sides are doors leading to other chambers4 ,on the very summit of the hill is the ,tomb of ,herod4 ,it is a vaulted chamber of hewn limestone1 fifteen feet long1 twelve wide1 and ten deep4 ,dying at ,jericho1 the royal monster was here interred1 amid the scene of his crimes and folly4 ,profound silence now reigns where once the noise of revelry was heard1 and1 unhonored and unlamented1 the dust of the proud ,idumean is trodden by the foot of the transient traveler and the wild ,arabs of ,engedi1 while in sight of his sepulchre the domes and towers of the city in which he sought to slay the 8young child0 rise up toward the throne of the world's ,redeemer as the monuments of the birthplace of ,him who 8liveth for evermore40 ,one of the wildest1 roughest roads in ,palestine leads from ,herodium to the ,cave of ,adullam1 where ,david and his men were secreted when pursued by ,saul1 and where 8every one that was in distress1 and every one that was in debt1 and every one that was discontented1 gathered themselves unto him1 and he became a captain over them1 and there were with him about four hundred men40#ccf ,from this cave his three 8mighty men0 broke through the lines of the ,philistines who garrisoned ,bethlehem1 and1 drawing water from the well that ,david loved so much1 and which still exists1 brought it in triumph to their chief2#ccg and from here he took his parents across the ,jordan1 to place them in the care of his kinsmen of ,moab4#cch ,descending over ledges of rocks to the bottom of a deep ravine1 dry and barren1 and walled in by perpendicular mountains #ajjj feet high1 we found ourselves in one of the grandest gorges in the ,wilderness of ,judea1 where the solitude is unbroken by human habitation4 ,in the face of the rocks are vast caverns1 partly excavated by the winds and partly by the band of robbers whose dens they were4 ,winding round rocky projections and crossing wilder ravines1 we reached at noon the foot of the ascent of the opposite mountain range1 in the side of which1 #djj feet above us1 was the cave of ,adullam4 ,compelled by the intense heat and the impossibility of finding a path to leave our horses1 we advanced single file1 now leaping yawning gulfs1 now clambering over smooth-faced rocks1 and again skirting some dangerous precipice4 ,it was past noon when the advanced guide cried out 8,kureitn60 ,in front of the cave were three immense boulders1 over whose smooth slanting sides only goats could apparently pass2 but we had endured too much to be thwarted by such obstacles4 ,one leap brought us flat upon the first rock1 another on the second1 a third into the mouth of the cave4 ,turning round1 ,i looked down upon a scene of complete desolation4 ,no mountain pine waved its green foliage as in ,alpine solitudes2 no waterfall delighted the ear with its music2 no feathered songster awakened the slumbering echoes of the glen4 ,entering the cave through a passage-way six feet high1 four wide1 and thirty long1 but which soon contracted to such dimensions as to compel us first to stoop and then to creep1 we at length found ourselves in the hiding-place of ,david4 ,owing to the curve in the entrance1 no sunlight ever penetrates this dismal abode4 ,lighting our candles1 we began to explore4 ,we found the interior divided into chambers1 halls1 galleries1 and dungeons1 connected by intricate passage-ways4 ,the chief hall is #abj feet long and fifty wide2 the ceiling is high and arched1 ornamented with pendents resembling stalactites1 and from the walls extend sharp projections1 on which the ancient warriors hung their arms4 ,the effect was grand as our tapers revealed each irregular arch1 graceful pendent1 and sharp projection1 giving the whole the appearance of a grand ,gothic hall4 ,lateral passages radiate in every direction from this chamber1 but ultimately converge in a central room4 ,threading one by one these labyrinthian alleys1 ,i became separated from the guide1 and felt no little trepidation till ,i heard him respond to my call4 ,the darkness and silence were oppressive1 and the seclusion and intricacies of the cave would have baffled any attempt of ,saul to capture the object of his pursuit4 ,from the side of the first chamber we reached a pit ten feet deep1 and from it a low1 narrow alley1 #baj feet long1 leads to another hall1 the inner sanctum1 where ,david held his secret councils4 ,on the walls are the names of a few explorers1 and among them that of a romantic ,irish lady4 ,though this appeared to be the end of the great cave1 yet the guide spoke of a secret passage to ,tekoa and ,hebron4 ,the only difficulty in identifying this cave with the one ,david occupied is the fact that two ,adullams are mentioned in the ,bibleone on the borders of ,philistia1 and the other among the cities of ,judea4 ,a hundred feet above the cavern are the ruins of a city1 probably the site of the ,judan ,adullam1 from which the cave takes its name4 ,and three scriptural facts seem to place the question beyond dispute3 ,david's escape from ,gath1#cci the reception of his father's house1 #cdj and the draught of water which his 8mighty men0 obtained for him at the peril of their lives1#cda all of which favor this location rather than the one in an enemy's country4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,en ,route for ,hebron4 ,travelers4 ,beautiful ,scenery4 ,ancient ,travelers4 ,evening4 ,gray's ,elegy4 ,search for ,lodgings4 ,hebron4 ,its ,name4 ,origin4 ,home of ,abraham4 ,history4 ,location of the ,city and its ,environs4 ,pools4 ,cave of ,machpelah4 ,the ,mosque over it4 ,tombs of the ,patriarchs and their ,wives4 ,prince of ,wales4 ,isaac still ,lives4 ,identity of the ,cave4 ,evidence4 ,united in ,death4 ,beersheba4 ,its ancient ,wells4 ,events of the ,past4 ,changeless ,customs4 ,abraham and the ,angels4 ,dining with an ,arab ,sheikh4 ,grapes of ,eshcol4 ,abraham's ,oak4 ,ruins4 ,pool of ,solomon4 ,his ,aqueduct4 ,plains of ,rephaim4 ,,it was four o'clock1 one ,friday afternoon in the month of ,march1 when we issued from the western portal of ,bethlehem on our way to ,hebron4 ,we had dined at a small ,german inn within the town1 and from the proprietor ,i had obtained a spirited horse1 though at an exorbitant price4 ,the descent from the hill on which the city stands is rapid and difficult4 ,in less than half an hour we reached the ,pools of ,solomon1 but the day was too far advanced to examine them with care4 ,many travelers were on their way to northern cities1 some on camels1 some on asses1 some on foot4 ,salutations were exchanged as we passed each other1 and their appearance indicated both kindness and thrift4 ,the men were attired in loose flowing robes1 with sandals and turbans2 the women in blue garments1 and a white sheet enveloping their person2 a thin veil was drawn closely around the lower part of the face1 just above which their black lustrous eyes were peering4 ,it was a strange sight to an ,american to see men riding and women walking2 but in the land of ,sarah1 ,rachel1 and ,mary1 where the highest honor ever bestowed upon our race was conferred upon a woman1 her degradation is no less true than sad4 ,beyond the ,pools the country rapidly improved in fertility and beauty4 ,though hilly1 the land was not mountainous2 and though the relative position of hill and valley was not regular1 yet this confusion added interest to the scene4 ,the vales were green with grains and grasses2 the hills were covered with groves of fruit-trees2 and along the highway were wells and fountains of cool water4 ,as we advanced the scenery became picturesque4 ,now the valleys ran tortuously between the mountains2 now ridges of ,jura limestone rose on either hand2 now dwarfed oaks and wild flowers covered hill and vale1 while every where were visible ancient terraces and ruined towers1 the evidence of former cultivation and of a larger population4 ,but the pleasures of the journey were lessened by the condition of the roads1 which were crooked and uneven1 broken and stony4 ,sections of the old ,roman highway remain1 but by the neglect of twelve centuries this once famous road1 over which the ,roman chariot rolled1 has been so damaged that those 8royal road-makers0 would now disown it as the work of their hands4 ,yet even an inconvenience so great was forgotten in the recollection that over this same road ,abraham had passed with ,isaac to the ,land of ,moriah1 ,jacob had fled from the face of ,esau1 ,david had ridden in triumph to ,jerusalem1 and the ,holy ,family had hastened to ,egypt to escape the murdering minions of ,herod4 ,the day was far gone as we neared the home of the ,patriarchs4 ,the sun was fast sinking into the blue waters of the ,mediterranean2 the ,hebron ,hills were casting their lengthening shadows over the vineyards of ,eshcol1 and the wild flowers1 blooming along the path1 were closing their tiny petals 8beneath the kisses of night40 ,it was such an hour and such a scene as the plaintive bard has embalmed in immortal verse3 8,the lowing herd winds slowly o'er the lea1 ,the plowman homeward plods his weary way1 ,and leaves the world to darkness and to me4 99 99 99 99 99 8,now fades the glimmering landscape on the sight1 ,and all the air a solemn stillness holds1 ,save where the beetle wheels his droning flight1 ,and drowsy tinklings lull the distant folds40#cdb ,illustration3 ,,hebron4 ,a solitary light shone from the minaret of ,hebron as we entered its ancient portal4 8,strangers in a strange land10 we sat down upon the stone pavement1 waiting the return of our dragoman1 whom1 in the absence of a hotel1 we had dispatched to search for lodgings in a private dwelling4 ,weary and hungry1 we waited till nine o'clock for his return1 being closely watched by the ,hebronites1 and1 in turn1 we watched the progress of a little courtship between a pretty ,jewess and a young ,israeliteshe coquettishly peeping through a latticed window1 he standing beneath it1 catching the smiles and accents of love4 ,a ,polish ,jew had been persuaded to receive us into his house1 but as it was ,friday night1 the beginning of the ,jewish ,sabbath1 the family refused to prepare us food1 or do any thing for our comfort which required work4 ,our host's name was ,jonah1 a most unpromising fact4 ,according to the style of ,polish ,jews1 he wore yellow robes trimmed with fur1 and a high round fur cap4 ,his wife was elegantly attired1 and was a person of more than ordinary beauty1 which was not true of the other ladies of the family4 ,their house was near the ,cave of ,machpelah1 and built of gray limestone4 ,the room we occupied was in the second story2 the ceiling was arched1 and on the sides of the apartment was a raised platform1 which served us as a couch4 ,we had eaten nothing since we left ,bethlehem2 our host's religion would not allow him to relieve our hunger1 and1 while we sent for a little ,mohammedan maid to prepare the meal1 ,i thought on our ,lord's parable of the ass in a ditch on the ,sabbath-day4 ,hebron comes from ,kirjath-,arbacity of ,arbafrom ,arba1 who was father of ,anak1 and progenitor of the giants called ,anakims4 ,at a later period it received the name of ,mamre1 in honor of ,mamre1 the ,amorite1 the friend and ally of ,abraham4 ,it now bears the ,arabic name of ,el-,khull1 8,the ,friend of ,god10 evidently referring to the 8,father of the ,faithful40 ,hebron is older than the oldest authentic history4 ,according to ,moses1 ,hebron was built seven years before ,zoan in ,egypt4#cdc ,but when was ,zoan built8 ,seven years after ,hebron6 ,this indefinite answer leaves us to infer that ,hebron is among the oldest cities in the world1 having a greater antiquity than ,damascus4 ,though its earliest history is obscure1 its identity with the home of the patriarchs is unquestioned4 ,subsequently to his separation from ,lot at ,bethel1 ,abraham pitched his tent on the ,plains of ,mamre4#cdd ,hither came the fugitive from the battle of the kings1 and informed him of the capture of his nephew4#cde ,from these peaceful pasture-fields he went forth with #cah trained servants1 born in his own house1 and1 pursuing the victors unto ,dan1 there retook his relative4#cdf ,it was here1 while sitting in his tent door1 as old men are accustomed now to sit1 that three angels in human form came to his tent1 one to promise him a son1 the others to pass on and destroy the 8cities of the plain20#cdg and1 ascending the eastern hill early the next morning1 he saw the smoke of the country that went up as the smoke of a furnace4#cdh ,here1 in harmony with the renewal of a covenant previously formed1 and in obedience to the ,lord's command1 he and all the males of his house were circumcised4 ,here is the scene of the unhappy story of ,hagar and ,ishmael1#cdi and1 years later1 of the birth of ,isaac4 ,here ,sarah died1 and in the cave of ,machpelah ,abraham interred his beloved wife4#cej ,years after1 the prince of patriarchs was laid by her side2 and1 in the termination of generations1 ,isaac and ,rebecca1#cea ,leah and ,jacob1#ceb descended to this abode of death4 ,two and a half centuries subsequent to the demise of ,jacob1 the good ,caleb rested in peace and honor in ,hebron2#cec and1 #djj years later1 ,david here inaugurated a long and prosperous reign1 and held his court during seven and a half years4#ced ,but in less than #ajjj years thereafter the home of the patriarchs and the seat of royalty became the theatre of the most horrid tragedies of war4 ,here1 beside the graves of their fathers1 and beneath the noble oaks on the ancestral plain1 thousands of ,jewish captives were brought from ,jerusalem by the victorious ,romans and sold into slavery4 ,having an elevation of #bh1jjj feet above the sea1 the modern town of ,hebron is beautifully situated in the ,valley of ,eshcol4 ,extending north and south1 and spreading out over the slopes of the neighboring hills1 the city is divided by gardens into two sections1 the main portion lying on the eastern slope1 surmounted by the lofty wall of the ,haram4 ,to the north1 on the declivities of the western hills1 is a large cemetery4 ,the graves of ordinary persons are marked by a circle of stones1 while the tombs of distinguished individuals are designated by heaps of small stones1 thrown together by friends and admirers to perpetuate their memory4 ,the hills that bound the city on the east and west are not high1 but graceful and rolling4 ,to the northwest they are thickly covered with olive-groves1 orchards of fruit-trees1 and vineyards1 each with a watch-tower for shelter and protection4 ,there is nothing in the architecture of the town to awaken admiration4 ,like the buildings in the suburbs of ,damascus1 the dwellings are of gray limestone1 with flat roofs1 and surmounted by one or two domes4 ,unlike ,jerusalem1 the city has no walls1 though at the entrance of the chief thoroughfares there are gates1 which are closed at night1 and carefully guarded during the day4 ,the streets are nothing more than paved alleys1 and would be vastly improved by an occasional cleansing4 ,though subject to ,mohammedan control1 ,hebron is a thoroughly ,jewish city4 ,the population is estimated at #aj1jjj1 #ejj of whom are ,polish ,jews4 ,there is not a resident ,christian in ,hebron4 ,the citizens live by cultivating fruit-groves and vineyards2 by a small mercantile trade2 and by the manufacture of water skin-bottles and colored glass trinkets1 such as rings and bracelets1 which find a ready market among this simple-hearted people4 ,in a country where water is scarce1 and the mechanical art is in a rude condition1 the pools and fountains of the wiser and more opulent ancients are preserved with care4 ,the traveler is therefore not surprised to find himself standing beside fountains as old as the reign of ,david4 ,in the southern part of the vale1 where the buildings stretch across the valley from east to west1 is the pool over which were hanged the murderers of ,ishbosheth4#cee ,it is a square tank1 solidly built of large hewn stones1 measuring #acj feet on each side and fifty deep2 and in the northern section of the town there is another reservoir1 eighty-five feet long1 fifty-five broad1 and eighteen deep4 ,but the chief attraction in ,hebron1 alike to the ,christian1 the ,jew1 and the ,moslem1 is the cave of ,machpelah1 now bearing the ,arabic name of ,el-,khull8,the ,friend of ,god40 ,approaching it with a reverence almost religious1 with head uncovered1 and with emotions excited by the hallowed associations of the place1 ,i had hoped to have entered its precincts1 and to have read the ,bible story of its purchase and of the interment of the patriarchal families1 but a ,moslem fanaticism1 as inhuman as it is irreligious1 drove me from the sacred inclosure4 ,what a stinging rebuke to such conduct is found in the courtesy1 the justice1 the goodness displayed by ,abraham in the purchase of the field from the sons of ,heth6 ,his memory should soften religious asperities2 his character should pacify the rage of fanaticism2 his spirit should harmonize the discordant elements of sectarian strife2 but a ,moslem is too selfish1 too bigoted1 too depraved to rise to such sublime conceptions4 ,the field containing the cave of ,machpelah is located on the higher slope of the eastern hill1 and is now inclosed by a massive wall fifty feet high1 the lower portion of which1 to the height of forty feet1 is of ,jewish construction1 and the upper part is of ,saracenic origin1 with a minaret at each angle4 ,the wall has an ancient appearance1 being constructed of large beveled stones hewn smooth1 and extends north and south #bjj feet1 and #aae east and west4 ,the exterior is ornamented with square pilasters1 sixteen on each side1 eight at each angle1 which1 without capitals1 support a cornice extending the whole length of the structure4 ,the wall is solid1 without window or aperture except at the angles of the northern end1 where are the chief entrances1 reached by broad flights of steps1 of gentle ascent1 leading to the court within4 ,within this mural inclosure stands a mosque1 once a ,byzantine church1 which1 like the ,church of ,st4 ,sophia in ,constantinople and the ,church of ,justinian in ,jerusalem1 has been essentially altered and dedicated to ,mohammed4 ,beneath it is the cave of ,machpelah1 and within it are the monumental shrines of the patriarchal dead4 ,within a small chapel1 on the right1 is the cenotaph in honor of ,abraham1 and directly opposite1 in a similar recess1 is the shrine of ,sarah4 ,each is inclosed by an iron railing1 and guarded by a silver gate4 ,that of the father of the faithful consists of a coffin-like-structure1 six feet high1 built of plastered marble1 draped with three carpets of a green color1 embroidered with gold1 while over that of ,sarah is spread a pall4 ,on the sides of the mosque1 midway the building1 and immediately opposite each other1 are the monumental tombs of ,isaac and ,rebecca4 ,like those of their parents1 they are placed within chapels1 in the walls of which are windows1 protected by iron bars4 ,in a separate cloister1 opposite the entrance of the mosque1 in corresponding recesses1 are the tombs of ,jacob and ,leah4 ,over that of the former are green-colored carpets of a coarse texture2 against that of the latter recline two war-banners of the same hue4 ,regarding these tombs with a superstitious veneration in keeping with the spirit and teachings of their religion1 and with a fanaticism that would lead to the instant death of an intruder1 the ,moslems reverence them as among their holiest shrines4 ,until the year #ahfb1 admittance was absolutely refused to ,jew and ,christian1 except to architects1 who were allowed to enter to repair the structure2 but1 thanks to the intelligence1 the power1 and perseverance of the ,prince of ,wales1 the bar of seclusion from this most sacred and interesting place has been removed2 and though at present the relaxation is slight1 yet the ultimate effect of the prince's visit must be the removal of all restraint1 at least so far as to admit the ordinary traveler to the sacred inclosure1 as he is now admitted to the ,mosque of ,omar1 for a small fee1 which formerly was as sacredly guarded4 ,moslem cupidity can not brook the temptations of gold4 ,canon ,stanley1 who accompanied the prince1 has recorded1 with his usual elegance of diction1 some thrilling illustrations of the superstition and almost religious awe with which the guardians of the ,mosque regard these patriarchal shrines4 8,the princes of any other nation10 said the chief santon1 8should have passed over my dead body sooner than enter2 but to the eldest son of the ,queen of ,england we are willing to accord even this privilege40 ,and1 as the party entered the silver gate guarding the tomb of ,abraham1 the priest ejaculated1 8,o ,friend of ,god1 forgive this intrusion40 ,maintaining even in death their rigid rule of the exclusion of male visitors from the society of their females1 not even the ,crown ,prince of ,england was permitted to approach the cenotaphs of ,sarah and her female descendants4 ,the patriarchs being regarded as still existing in a state of suspended animation1 and capable of resenting any indignity offered to their sepulchres1 or the presence of any unwelcome visitor1 the prince's party was denied admittance to the tomb of ,isaac1 who1 according to the santon1 being unlike his kind-hearted father1 and more easily exasperated1 would arise and drive out any but those congenial to his spirit4 ,beneath the ,mosque is the sacred cave where rest in peace the remains of the eminent dead1 and where to this day may still repose intact the embalmed body of ,jacob4 ,machpelah signifying 8double10 the cave consists of two compartments1 separated by a wall of native rock4 ,to its sepulchral vaults there are three entrancesone in the northwest corner1 close to the western wall2 a second in the court1 opposite the entrance-gate of the ,mosque2 and a third near the shrine of ,abraham4 ,believing1 like the ,catholics1 in the intercession of saints1 the ,moslems throw their petitions to the patriarchs#cef through the latter aperture4 ,of the identity of this spot with the cave of ,machpelah there can not be a reasonable doubt4 ,in the days of ,josephus it was marked by a memorial erected by ,abraham himself1 and from his time both ,jews1 ,christians1 and ,moslems have in turn been the faithful guardians of the patriarchal tomb4 ,its identity is avouched by the belief of the ,jews themselves1 and around its venerable walls the despised descendant of the illustrious patriarchs now chants his prayers1 and laments the departed glory of the once mighty kingdom of his renowned ancestors4 ,threatened with instant death should his devotion or temerity lead him to cross the threshold1 he is only permitted1 on certain occasions1 to look through an aperture in the massive wall upon the spot where rest in peace those who were mighty in their day and generation1 but who1 in the helplessness of death1 can bring no relief to a posterity who have abandoned their altars1 and rejected the long-promised and now exalted ,messiah4 ,there was something touching in the thought that ,i stood beside the family vault of those who had long lived together in the happy estate of matrimony1 and there was even enjoyment in the reflection that ,god had vindicated the duality and unity of marriage in the grave4 ,here1 side by side1 sleep ,abraham and ,sarah1 ,isaac and ,rebekah1 ,jacob and ,leah4 ,hagar and ,keturah are not with ,sarah1 and ,rachel is not with her sister ,leah4 ,is this separation in death ,god's reproof to ,jacob for his dissatisfaction with ,leah8 ,though the reasons that determined him to inter his beautiful ,rachel in a common field by the roadside are unknown to us1 and though ,hebron is less than twenty miles distant from ,ephrath1 yet it is somewhat remarkable that in after years she was not exhumed and laid in the family tomb of ,machpelah4 ,was ,jacob unwilling to divide his grave with the daughters of ,laban8 or1 conscious of the purity and singleness of his affection for ,rachel1 would he have her alone even in death8 ,by the highway her solitary tomb remains1 and1 as if impressed with the patriarch's wish1 his descendants have made no interments on the spot4 ,inseparably connected with ,hebron is ,beersheba1 which is less than forty miles to the south4 ,the road thither is hilly1 and the journey toilsome2 but1 on approaching the well that ,abraham dug1 the pasture-fields of the patriarchs stretch out before the eye in all their native beauty and richness4 ,covering an area half a mile in length and a quarter of a mile in breadth are fragments of pottery1 remains of foundations1 and traces of a stone wall1 the date of which is unknown1 called by ,moses ,beer-sheba1 8,well of the ,oath10 because of the covenant between ,abraham and ,abimelech1 and by the ,arabs ,br es-,seb'a1 8,well of the ,seven10 because of the seven ewe-lambs the former gave the latter3 the modern name corresponds with the ,bible designation4 ,having a diameter of twelve and a half feet1 and a depth of forty-four feet to the surface of the water1 this well is excavated in the living rock1 and contains an abundance of pure fresh water4 ,around this well what thrilling memories cluster6 ,departing from ,hebron after the conflagration of ,sodom1 ,abraham planted here a grove1 whose fruit he gathered1 and beneath whose shade he worshiped4#ceg ,here ,isaac spent his happy youth1 rejoicing in the smiles of honored parents1 and here his father received the command to offer the child of promise as a burnt-offering4#ceh ,after the demise of his mother1 here ,isaac received his bride ,rebekah2 and ,beersheba became the scene of that sad episode in domestic life1 the fraud of ,jacob in obtaining ,esau's birthright4#cei ,here1 in manhood1 those brothers were estranged by a mother's folly1 and from this ancestral abode ,jacob fled to ,haran4#cfj ,after the lapse of seventy-five years he was here again1 and offered sacrifices prior to his departure into ,egypt1 whence he was brought back with funeral honors such as only kings receive4#cfa ,threatened by the infatuated ,jezebel1 hither ,elijah fled1 and1 sitting beneath the shade of a juniper-tree1 requested for himself that he might die4#cfb ,and here was the southern boundary of the ,promised ,land1 whose uttermost limits1 in the earlier history of the nation1 were from 8,dan to ,beersheba40 ,in a land where social and domestic customs never change1 the scenes of historic associations possess an interest that never fails4 ,the advanced civilization of ,europe has there left to the traveler the ruins of renowned cities1 without perpetuating the customs of their citizens4 ,the temples1 palaces1 and dwellings of the ,greeks and ,romans remain1 attesting the genius1 elegance1 and wealth of their age1 but the social habits of the inhabitants of ,athens and ,rome bear no resemblance to those of their superior ancestors4 ,in ,italy and ,greece one feels himself in an ancient country surrounded by a modern people1 and1 to re-live the past1 he must forsake the present4 ,but in the ,east1 where a 8thousand years are but as one day0where the stereotyped life of the patriarchs is the every-day life of the ,arabswhere intonations of voice1 peculiarities of gesture1 modes of salutation1 styles of dress1 habits of business1 customs of domestic life1 and where the tent1 the meal1 the fold are the same1 the only difference is in the change of the persons who now occupy the homes of those whose memory we cherish1 whose examples we imitate1 and whose faith we aspire to attain4 ,accustomed to the slow and regular processes of nature1 possessing power rather than capacity1 and clinging to experience as something immutable1 those who live by the cultivation of the soil look with suspicion upon novelties1 regard innovations with dread1 and are the last to change4 ,the incoming of ,franks into ,eastern cities insensibly affects the manners of society2 but here1 on the patriarchal pasture-fields of ,mamre and ,beersheba1 the domestic life of to-day is the same as it was #djjj years ago4 ,in crossing the great ,plain of ,wady esh-,sheikh1 in ,arabia1 en route for ,mount ,sinai1 ,sheik ,hassan1 the chief of a tribe of ,tawarahs1 invited us to dine at his tent4 ,it was noon when1 from the backs of our camels1 we espied the encampment to the southward4 ,nine tents of camel's hair were arranged in a line1 supported by rude poles4 ,those for the females were impenetrable to the eye of strangers1 while those for the males consisted merely of a roof1 with the sides and ends open4 ,on reaching the tent prepared for our reception1 our camels knelt1 we dismounted1 and the sheikh's father1 a man of eighty years1 rose to greet us1 and bowed himself to the ground in an attitude of profound respect4#cfc ,mats were spread for us to sit upon1 and water was brought to wash our hands and feet4#cfd ,to the east of this tented home ,hassan's daughters were keeping his flocks1 as ,rachel had kept those of ,laban nearly forty centuries ago4#cfe ,a young man was sent to the fold to fetch a kid1 tender and good1 and1 having dressed it1 carried it into the tent to ,hassan's wife1 who cooked it with milk and rice4 ,the rice and meat were brought on two large wooden plates into our tent1 and set before us on a small stool less than a foot high4 ,without knife1 fork1 or spoon1 we returned to the days before the invention of such instruments1 and with our fingers begun to eat1 while the sheikh respectfully stood up1 attentive to our wants4#cff ,it being a breach of ,arab etiquette to inquire after the health of a wife1 we were not permitted to ask for ,sarah as the angels did4#cfg ,had the dinner ,abraham prepared for the three angels on the plains of ,mamre been dramatized1 the correspondence could hardly have been more exact4 ,the tent-life2 this distant field2 the pressing invitation to dine2 the water for the ablution of our hands and feet2 the going to the field for a kid2 handing it to a servant to dress it2 the meal itself2 the sheikh standing up while we ate2 the seclusion of the females gave a lifelike reality to the sacred story4 ,like the patriarchs of old1 these ,bedouin sheikhs lead a predatory life1 moving their tents from place to place1 according to the climate1 and the demands of their herds and flocks4 ,but in wealth1 in hospitality1 in reputation1 in purity of character1 in devotion1 in intellect1 in nobility of nature1 the modern ,arab chief holds no comparison with the exalted nature1 the high-toned character1 and the ,christian-like piety of the prince of the patriarchs4 ,as in the days of the ,hebrew spies1 the ,vale of ,hebron is still famous for the delicious grapes of ,eshcol4#cfh ,extending up the valley for more than a mile1 and covering the sloping hills on either side1 these celebrated vineyards are cultivated with care1 and are a source of considerable revenue to the proprietors4 ,unlike our vineyards1 those of ,eshcol have no arbors4 ,the vines are planted in rows1 from eight to ten feet apart in each direction4 ,when they attain a height of six feet they are attached to a stake1 placed in a sloping position1 and the shoots extending from vine to vine form a long and graceful festoon4 ,occasionally two opposite rows are purposely inclined toward each other1 forming with their branches a natural arbor4 ,after vintage1 in late autumn1 all the shoots are pruned off1 and the stocks are cut down within a few feet of the ground1 leaving an ungainly and apparently dead trunk2 but the returning spring brings forth again the tender leaf1 and the coming summer matures the luscious grape for the autumnal vintage4 ,in each vineyard there is a lodge1 or stone tower1 from which the watchman keeps guard against the depredations of beasts and the incursions of robbers4 ,during the vintage season the town is deserted2 the people retire to these towers1 each one sitting beneath his own vine and fig-tree1#cfi and dividing the time between the gathering of the fruitage and the enjoyments of the annual festival4 ,as the ,moslems1 who are the principal proprietors1 are not allowed by their ,koran to make wine1 the grapes are either dried into raisins1 or they are first pressed1 and the juice is then boiled down into a sirup called dbs1 not unlike molasses1 but of a more delightful flavor and delicious taste4 ,it was to these vineyards the spies came1 and from them they carried bunches of the grapes to ,moses and their brethren as evidence of the fruitfulness of the ,promised ,land4 ,their journey was long1 fatiguing1 and perilous4 ,leaving ,kadesh ,barnea1 in the ,desert of ,paran1 they entered the ,jordan ,valley1 and followed the river northward to ,lake ,tiberias1 and1 winding round its northern shore1 entered the upper valley of the ,jordan1 pursuing their journey as far as ,rehob1 near ,dan1 as men come to ,hamath2 thence returning through the midst of the land by ,tabor1 across the great plain of ,esdraelon1 over the hills of ,samaria1 through the vale of ,shechem1 by ,jacob's well1 over the heights of ,benjamin and ,judah1 by ,shiloh1 ,bethel1 ,jerusalem1 and ,bethlehem1 to ,hebron4 ,here flows the brook ,eshcol1 from which they drank1 and from the vines along its banks they cut down a branch with one cluster of grapes1 8and they bare it between two upon a staff40 ,to those who live in more northern climates1 this story of the enormous size and great weight of a single bunch of grapes must seem incredible2 but1 whatever may be the degeneracy of the ,syrian grape1 through centuries of neglect1 the proof is abundant that in southern latitudes grapes grow to an enormous size4 ,according to ,pliny1 a bunch of ,african grapes was larger than an infant4 ,paul ,lucas mentions bunches which he saw in ,damascus weighing forty-five pounds each1 and in ,naples ,i have eaten grapes each one as large as a plum4 ,the mode1 however1 adopted by the spies to carry the bunch from ,eshcol to ,kadesh ,barnea was probably not rendered necessary by the size of the cluster so much as by the desire to preserve it entire for the benefit of their brethren4#cgj ,watched by the keen eye of the vine-dresser1 we entered the vineyard1 and were impressed with the exact correspondence between the one before us and the one described by our ,lord3 ,there was a certain householder1 which planted a vineyard1 hedged it round about1 digged a wine-press in it1 built a tower1 and let it out to husbandmen4#cga ,there were the vines2 around them was the hedge2 within it was the press2 yonder stood the tower1 and by my side toiled the husbandman4 ,within the same vale are groves of olives1 and orchards of figs1 and apricots1 and quinces1 and pomegranates4 ,the latter fruit1 so frequently referred to in the ,bible1 is as sweet to the taste as it is pleasant to the eye4 ,in form and size it is not unlike an orange1 and in color inclines to a pale yellow1 tinged with a red blush4 ,they grow upon a thorny bush1 with a tulip-shaped flower of a brilliant red color1 and form one of the luxuries of the ,east both to the native and to the stranger4 ,but the noblest of all the trees of ,hebron is the remarkable oak of ,abraham4 ,it stands in the midst of the vineyards1 in a clean1 smooth spot1 covered with soft1 fresh grass1 and near a well of cool water4 ,it is an oak of the evergreen species1 measuring twenty-three feet in girth1 and its magnificent branches spread out over a circle ninety feet in diameter4 ,six feet from the ground the trunk separates into four huge branches1 and1 higher up1 these in turn spread out into many more4 ,standing alone1 it appears to greater advantage1 and its lengthened arms1 loaded with exquisite foliage1 affords delightful shade to the weary traveler4 ,here1 on their festive days1 the ,jewish maidens and the young men of ,hebron assemble beneath this ancestral tree to enjoy the rural pleasure of the song and dance4 ,though of great age1 it is still sound and majestic1 and with it tradition associates many thrilling memories4 ,standing on the ,plain of ,mamre1 it probably marks the spot where ,abraham pitched his tent and entertained the angels4 ,though hardly credible that this terebinth should have remained green and vigorous during the lapse of nearly forty centuries1 yet it may be cherished as the last representative of the sacred forest of ,mamre4 ,fond of contrasts1 and never happier than when the extremes of fortune and the ends of time meet in the same scene1 the ,oriental legendaries point to this noble oak as the slave-mart where the descendants of ,abraham were sold by their ,roman masters into captivity4 ,plucking a leaf from the famous oak and a sprig from the vines of ,eshcol1 we mounted our horses1 and in less than an hour reached the ruins of ,remit el-,khull1 the house of ,abraham4 ,occupying the summit of a mountain ridge1 from which the blue waters of the ,mediterranean were distinctly seen1 they consist of massive stone walls1 of rounded columns now broken1 of arched vaults now in ruins1 and of a noble well hewn out of the solid rock4 ,the two remaining walls are constructed of well-dressed stones1 measuring fifteen feet in length1 and are in good condition4 ,the wall facing the south extends east and west #bij feet1 while the other1 running at right angles with the former1 is #afj in length4 ,the well is a perfect circle1 with a diameter of ten feet4 ,its sides are faced with smooth dressed stones1 from out the joints of which exquisite ferns were growing4 ,the water is deep1 clear1 and sweet1 reflecting the sun by day1 and the moon and stars by night4 ,an unsolved mystery still hangs over the ruins of ,remit el-,khull1 if ruins they be4 ,their founder and their age are alike unknown4 ,the ,jews point to them as marking one of the halting-places of ,abraham2 the ,latin fathers of church history ascribe them to ,constantine the ,great2 while others attribute them to some unknown person1 who would have reared for himself a castle and a palace1 but was unable to finish the designed plan4 ,resuming our journey1 in half an hour we passed on our right a mosque1 whose solitary minaret rose gracefully in honor of the ,prophet ,jonah1 while to the left1 a mile beyond1 was a crumbling tower with pointed arches1 and near it an immense fountain1 where shepherds were bathing4 ,on either side of the road were excavated tombs1 now the haunt of the hyena and jackal4 ,the mosque probably marks the site of ,halhul1 and the tower the site of ,beth-zur1 enumerated by ,joshua as among the cities of ,judah4#cgb ,fifteen miles to the north from ,hebron the valley of ,urts crosses the road at right angles1 and to the right of the highway are the celebrated ,pools of ,solomon4 ,to these1 and to the lovely gardens which once environed them1 he refers in ,ecclesiastes1 ii41 #e1 #f3 8,i made me gardens and orchards1 and ,i planted trees in them of all kinds of fruits4 ,i made me pools of water1 to water therewith the wood that bringeth forth trees40 ,nowhere in the environs of ,jerusalem could the wise king have attained the consummation of his wishes to greater advantage than here4 ,under the horticultural care of a ,christian ,jew1 the valley of ,urts has been transformed into a charming garden4 ,what were once rocky hills are now terraced from base to summit1 covered with olives1 figs1 and almonds1 while in the bed of the valley are grains and grasses1 flowers and vegetables1 growing in rich abundance4 ,with his inexhaustible resources1 what a scene of beauty must the vale of ,etham and the neighboring hills have presented in the days of ,solomon's strength and glory6 ,but ,time1 that inexorable destroyer of human works1 has effaced every trace of his wonderful genius save the pools that bear his name4 ,both history and tradition point with unmistakable accuracy to the imperial founder of these great fountains4 ,with his accustomed love of detail1 ,josephus refers to the rivulets and gardens of ,etham1 situated fifty stadia to the south from the ,holy ,city1 whither ,solomon was wont to retire for rural delights2 and the ,rabbins1 with even greater minuteness1 describe the aqueduct which conveyed the waters of ,urts to ,jerusalem4 ,illustration3 ,,urt,s4 ,these pools consist of three immense reservoirs1 situated in a straight line one below the other1 and so constructed that the bottom of the first is higher than the top of the second1 and the second than that of the third4 ,they are in part excavated in the rocky bed of the valley1 and in part built of square hewn stones covered with cement1 and are entered by stone steps excavated in the rock4 ,measuring #chj feet in length1 #bcf in breadth1 and twenty-five in depth1 the upper pool is the smallest of the three4 ,a hundred and sixty feet to the east is the middle pool1 which is #dbc feet long1 thirty-nine deep1 and varies from #afj to #bej wide4 ,two hundred and forty-eight feet farther east is the lowest and largest reservoir1 being #ehb feet in length1 from #adh to #bjg in width1 and fifty feet in depth1 and1 when full1 capable of floating one of our largest men-of-war4 ,the eastern end of the lowest pool is supported by immense buttresses1 in one of which is a chamber1 and in the north wall of the first tank is a filtera wise precaution4 ,forty rods to the northwest1 in an open field1 are the perennial sources of these great fountains4 ,twelve feet below the surface are two vaulted chambers1 the larger of the two being thirty-seven feet long and twenty wide4 ,springing up at four different places through the bottom of these chambers1 the water is conducted by little ducts into a large basin1 from which it flows through a subterranean canal to the northwest corner of the first pool1 where it is divided1 a portion of it flowing into a deep vault near the old castle1 and thence being conducted into the first pool1 while the remainder is carried by an aqueduct along the hill-side1 which is so arranged as to send a portion of its water into the second and third pools1 and then1 descending rapidly1 joins the aqueduct leading from the lowest pool1 from which point the water is conducted1 via ,bethlehem1 by a sinuous channel to ,jerusalem4 ,i know not which to admire morethe genius of the architect that conceived such a complicated work1 or the public spirit of the king who supplied the means for its execution4 ,the original design was to supply the ,holy ,city with pure cool water1 and also the ,temple service1 which demanded such large quantities4 ,and to obtain a constant and unfailing supply1 these tanks bore to each other a mutual relation4 ,when the fountain yielded more than was necessary1 the surplus was carried into the pools1 and when the yield was not equal to the demand1 the deficiency was supplied from the pools themselves4 ,the wind blew hard from the northwest as ,i traced up the hill-side the ancient aqueduct1 repeating those impressive words of the great proverbialist1 8,vanity of vanities1 all is vanity40 ,like the melancholy strains of a dirge1 the winds moaned as they swept round the mountain brow1 and the waters sighed as they languidly fell from pool to pool4 ,was it not the requiem of his departed glory8 ,a solitary descendant of his mighty kingdom now grubs a living where once his royal gardens stood1 of whose beauty he sang in all the tenderness of the ,canticles2 and the robber of the desert and the wild ,bedouin of the hills now bathe in those fountains which once sent murmuring streamlets along verdant banks and flowery beds1 and supplied the imperial table with the cooling beverage4 ,illustration3 ,,solomon',s ,,pools4 ,the aqueduct is constructed of red earthen pipes1 covered1 for protection1 by common limestone flagging4 ,in many places the flagging is removed and the pottery broken1 to accommodate the traveler with water4 ,to preserve a proper level1 it sweeps around the hills and heads of the valleys2 and1 though fatiguing to follow its windings1 it repaid the toil1 as illustrating the fact that1 while the ancients could construct the most complicated works of masonry1 they were ignorant of the simple method of conducting water over a level higher than its source4 ,having followed the aqueduct two miles1 we crossed the wild valley of ,ta'mirah1 and reached ,bethlehem in time to enjoy a ,christian wedding4 ,ten pretty maidens had assembled at the door of the bride1 and were singing a simple but sweet melody1 accompanied with the clapping of hands4 ,unlike the music of the ,moslems1 there was a warmth in these bridal songs thrilling and joyous4 ,from a scene so happy we passed through the town1 and1 a mile from the ancient gateway to the northwest1 we came to the tomb of ,rachel4 8,and they journey from ,bethel2 and there was but a little way to come to ,ephrath2 and ,rachel died and was buried in the way to ,ephrath1 which is ,bethlehem4 ,and ,jacob set a pillar upon her grave2 that is the pillar of ,rachel's grave unto this day40#cgc ,the pillar reared to the memory of a beloved wife has given place to a small white square building1 surmounted by a dome4 ,it is a ,mohammedan wely4 ,standing by the side of the great road from ,jerusalem to ,hebron1 the site has never been lost1 its identity never questioned4 ,jew1 ,christian1 ,moslem1 equally revere it1 and never pass it without some token of affectionate remembrance4 ,gathering a few wild flowers growing near the dust of ,rachel1 we resumed our journey toward ,jerusalem4 ,in half an hour we reached the convent dedicated to ,elijah1 called ,mr ,elis1 and here came upon the new and noble macadamized road1 extending from ,bethlehem to ,jerusalem1 constructed by the monks of ,mr ,elis1 which is the first of the kind in ,palestine1 since the construction of a similar road by the ,french1 running from ,berut to ,damascus4 ,the wind had increased to a tornado as we swept by the ,plain of ,rephaim4 ,it was the last object of ,biblical interest to heighten the joy of a long and interesting tour4 ,stretching from the rocky brow of ,hinnom to the ,convent of ,elias1 it gradually declines to the narrow ,valley of ,roses4 ,a mile in length1 it is one of the richest plains in the ,holy ,land4 ,it is remarkable in sacred history as the camp of the ,philistines in the days of ,saul1 and as containing a mulberry-grove1 now gone1 in the tops of the trees1 of which ,david heard a 8sound of a going10#cgd which to him was the signal of war and the pan of victory4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,land of the ,philistines4 ,its ,limits4 ,fell to the ,lot of ,simeon and ,dan4 ,origin of the ,philistines4 ,the meaning of the ,name4 ,their royal ,cities4 ,their ,god and ,goddess4 ,journey thither4 ,valley of ,roses4 ,baptism of the ,eunuch4 ,home of ,john the ,baptist4 ,slaughter of the ,jews in the ,city of ,bether4 ,site of ,bethshemesh4 ,home of ,samson4 ,village of ,zorah4 ,field where the ,angel appeared4 ,town of ,timnath4 ,lair of the ,lion4 ,home of ,delilah4 ,oriental ,weddings4 ,valley of ,shochoh4 ,scene of the ,conflict between ,david and ,goliath4 ,correspondence between ,scripture and the natural ,features of the ,place4 ,the ,valley4 ,the ,brook4 ,the smooth ,stones4 ,the ,sling4 ,the ,mountains4 ,the ,champions4 ,the ,victory4 ,home of ,goliath4 ,gath4 ,david's feigned ,insanity4 ,road to ,eleutheropolis4 ,its ,location4 ,great ,caves4 ,site of ,lachish4 ,its great ,battle-field4 ,sennacherib and ,hezekiah4 ,byron's ,hebrew ,melody4 ,gaza4 ,palm-groves4 ,direction of the ,road4 ,site of the ,city4 ,modern ,city4 ,ancient ,ruins4 ,christian ,church4 ,home of ,giants4 ,gates that ,samson carried away4 ,his ,prison4 ,the great ,feast4 ,samson called4 ,his ,presence alarms the ,multitude4 ,feats of ,strength4 ,death ,scene4 ,he is a ,failure4 ,alexander the ,great wounded at ,gaza4 ,a ,moslem ,city4 ,ascalon4 ,route thither4 ,stood near the ,sea4 ,ruins4 ,desolation4 ,history4 ,adorned by ,herod4 ,captured by the ,crusaders4 ,road to ,ashdod4 ,beautiful ,gardens4 ,no ,ruins4 ,dagon and the ,ark4 ,road to ,joppa4 ,villages4 ,joppa on the ,sea4 ,its ,antiquity4 ,floats of ,pine and ,cedar4 ,house of ,simon4 ,substantial ,structure4 ,peter's ,vision4 ,appearance of the ,town4 ,gate of the ,city4 ,population4 ,jews4 ,nubian ,magician4 ,magnificent ,orange-groves4 ,ramleh4 ,franciscans4 ,traditions4 ,antiquities4 ,tower4 ,view4 ,ludd4 ,eneas cured of ,palsy4 ,church of ,st4 ,george4 ,beautiful ,ruin4 ,nether ,bethhoron4 ,wretchedness4 ,upper ,bethhoron4 ,battle-field of ,gibeon4 ,the ,battle4 ,wonderful ,correspondence4 ,testimony of the ,rocks4 ,ajalon4 ,sun and ,moon stand still4 ,city of ,gibeon4 ,modern ,town4 ,gibeonites4 ,history4 ,death of the ,gladiators4 ,pool of ,gibeon4 ,murder of ,amasa4 ,solomon's ,dream4 8,the ,look-out40 ,mizpeh4 ,national ,rendezvous4 ,ebenezer ,stone4 ,saul chosen ,king4 ,minaret4 ,vast and magnificent ,prospect4 ,,philistia is among the richest sections of ,palestine1 and is scarcely surpassed in fertility by any other portion of land upon the globe4 ,consisting of that vast maritime plain extending from ,joppa on the north to ,gerar on the south1 it is washed by the ,mediterranean on the west1 and is bounded on the east by the ,mountains of ,judea4 ,originally occupied by the ,avims1 the descendants of ,cush1#cge it subsequently became the possession of the ,philistines4 ,in the division of the land it fell to the tribes of ,simeon and ,dan1 who1 however1 were never fully able to subdue their allotted provinces4 ,at present it is inhabited by ,moslem ,arabs1 whose humble towns occupy the sites of more renowned cities4 ,on the origin of the ,philistines the learned are not agreed4 ,in the absence of authentic records and of distinctive customs1 it is difficult to decide whether they came from the hills of ,cappadocia1 the islands of ,cyprus and ,crete1 or from ,lower ,egypt4 ,their national name1 signifying 8strangers10 implies their foreign birth4 ,nor is it definitely known whether they came in possession of their new territory by conquest1 or by alliances formed with the aborigines of ,canaan1 who1 in process of time1 were absorbed by the more rapid increase and superior strength of their allies4 ,rising to greatness from an humble beginning1 their history forms part of the inspired narrative1 and the whole country now bears the name of ,palestine1 or 8the ,land of the ,philistines40 ,dividing their possession into five lordships1 they founded as many royal cities1 which are known in ,scripture by the names of ,gaza1 ,ashdod1 ,askelon1 ,gath1 and ,ekron4 ,idolaters in faith and practice1 their chief divinity was ,dagon1 the 8,fish-god10 whose dominion over men1 beasts1 and fowls was represented by the triple formation of his body4 ,he had a human head1 a horse's neck1 and trunk and limbs covered with the feathers of different birds4 ,his wife ,derceto1 8the ,fish-goddess10 or ,syrian ,venus1 had the form of a beauteous maid from her waist up1 and thence downward resembled a fish4 ,as the home of ,samson1 and the scene of many a romantic story1 ,philistia has a history of thrilling interest4 ,it was therefore with no ordinary delight that we left the ,holy ,city to explore a region where have occurred so many grand historic events4 ,skirting the northern border of the ,plain of ,rephaim1 we were soon under the shadow of the ,convent of the ,cross4 ,turning to the right1 we entered the ,valley of ,roses1 called by the ,arabs ,wady el-,werd4 ,for more than half a mile the bottom of the glen is covered with rose-bushes1 cultivated for the manufacture of rose-water1 which is used in the ,east in large quantities4 ,descending ,wady el-,werd1 we soon reached ,philip's ,fountain1 where1 according to a recent tradition1 the ,evangelist baptized the ,ethiopian eunuch4#cgf ',ain ,hanyeh is a pretty fountain gushing out from a semicircular apse1 ornamented with pilasters1 and is situated in a wild glen by the wayside1 on the ancient road to ,gaza4 ,on the summit of a neighboring hill to the north stands the quiet hamlet of ',ain ,krim1 the birthplace of ,john the ,baptist4 ,it is in the 8hill country of ,judea10 and is the scene of the meeting of those pious cousins1 the destined mothers of the ,messiah and his harbinger4#cgg ,high up on a wild ridge to the south is the city of ,bether1 where the pretended ,christ1 called ,bar-cochba1 the 8,son of a ,star10 made his last and fatal stand against the ,romans under ,adrian4 ,it was then a ,jewish city of wealth and learning1 and1 after a siege of three and a half years1 was forced to surrender4 ,eighty thousand of its unfortunate citizens fell beneath the conqueror's sword2 and such was the dreadful slaughter1 that1 according to the historian1 the horses waded in blood up to their bridles4 ,following the ,sultny1 or 8,queen's ,highway10 our path lay among the 8hills of ,judea10 clad with vines and covered with corn4 ,approaching the large town of ,beit ',abab1 we turned to the west1 and at high noon reached the ancient city of ,bethshemesh4 ,thistles and marigolds now cover the ruins of the ,philistine village1 to which the ,ark of the ,lord was brought from ,ekron1 and where fifty thousand people were slain for their temerity in looking into the ark1 contrary to the ,lord's express command4#cgh ,we were now in the country of ,samson4 ,around us rose his native hills1 and beneath us stretched the valleys of his childhood1 while here and there appeared the scenes of many memorable deeds of his riper years4 ,on the summit of a neighboring hill to the right1 which rises steeply from the ,valley of ,sr'ah1 is the village of ,zorah1 where he was born1#cgi and adjoining it is the field where the angel of the ,lord appeared unto ,manoah and his wife4 ,beyond an intervening ridge1 and less than two miles to the westward1 is ,timnath1 situated on a plain1 the place where ,samson married his ,philistine wife4#chj ,it was in one of the vineyards in the adjacent glen that1 as he hastened to his betrothed1 he turned aside to slay the lion of ,timnath who roared against him1#cha and from whose dead carcass1 on a subsequent occasion1 he took the honey which1 on his wedding-day1 was the subject of that perplexing riddle1 8,out of the eater came forth meat1 and out of the strong came forth sweetness40#chb ,it was there the wife of his bosom was afterward given to another1 and1 to avenge himself1 he went forth to destroy the corn-fields of his enemies1 which dotted the ,plain of ,philistia4#chc ,from the base of his native hill extends the ,valley of ,sorek1 the home of ,delilah1#chd and where the man with a divine secret1 yielding to the entreaties of a woman1 fell asleep in the lap of false affection1 to awake to weakness and to shame4 ,along this same vale the road leads to ,gaza1 whither the blind captive was led1 bound with fetters of brass1 to grind in the prison-house of the ,philistines4#che ,and now1 after the lapse of so many centuries1 all the incidents of his wedding are illustrated by existing customs and confirmed by facts4 ,wives are procured now1 as then1 by the intervention of parents2 marriages are attended by the same display2 and on such occasions riddles are propounded by the bridegroom1 and other sports practiced4 ,in the wild glens of this region1 and on the rugged hills1 are foxes or jackals1 and through the corn-fields on the rich plains below another ,samson might send them on their burning mission4 ,passing on toward the scene of his death1 we turned to the southeast in search of the ,valley of ,shochoh1 where ,david slew ,goliath4 ,a ride of six miles brought us to ,beit ,nettf1 a small village crowning a lofty cliff4 ,impelled by curiosity1 the people gathered around us in crowds to examine our garments and riding equipage4 ,compelled to take a guide to the romantic valley1 we secured the services of a white-turbaned ,arab1 who1 after tenderly kissing his child and bidding his wife adieu1 led us through the town1 and1 to save a detour1 up the roughest1 steepest mountain in the ,holy ,land4 ,skirting the verge of a dangerous precipice on the north1 we turned southward1 and in less than an hour entered one of the most picturesque ravines in ,southern ,palestine4 ,rising grandly on either side1 the rocks were festooned with delicate shrubs1 and from a thousand rills the water glided1 forming a brooklet below4 ,midway the ravine there is a fountain gushing out of the mountain's side1 around which are a few ,arab huts4 ,the glen contracted as we ascended1 and at its terminus the country opened and declined toward the south4 ,rapidly descending a mountain path1 we were soon in the ,valley of ,elah1 where ,david achieved his celebrated victory4 ,here1 as elsewhere in our travels1 we had proof of the harmony existing between the inspired narrative of the event and the topography of the scene of its occurrence4 ,running north and south1 the bed of the valley measures a mile in width1 and was covered with grain and flowers4 ,through its centre extends a torrent bed1 lined with smooth pebbles1 and fringed with acacia-trees4 ,though not high1 the mountains on either side are bold and well defined4 ,on their summits the contending armies were drawn up in battle array1 watching each other's movements4 ,to make an assault1 the intervening valley must first be crossed1 which would give to the defense an immense advantage4 ,unwilling to lose a good position and invite such a fearful slaughter1 the armies were disinclined to make an attack4 ,impatient at the delay1 there was one brave spirit among the ,philistines who offered to stake the issues of the war upon a single-handed combat4 ,descending1 day after day1 for forty days1 the left bank of the valley1 ,goliath of ,gath threw down the gauntlet and cried out1 8,i defy the armies of ,israel2 send me a man1 that we may fight together40 ,his giant form1 his proud1 defiant tone1 his powerful weapons1 sent dismay to the heart of ,israel1 and neither the once heroic ,saul1 nor any of his warriors1 had the courage to accept the challenge4 ,with all the appearance of an accidental event1 ,david that day reached the camp with provision for his three brethren who were in ,saul's army4 ,rising above the contempt of ,eliab1 rejecting the king's armor1 but trusting in that higher power which had led him to the scene and ordained him for the fight1 ,david went forth to retrieve the honor of his country1 and vindicate the supremacy of ,jehovah over the idol ,dagon4 ,like ,syrian shepherds of to-day1 he carried a staff1 a scrip1 and sling1 for the defense of his fold4 ,confident of his ability to employ with success the instruments which he had been accustomed to all his life1 ,david descended1 in the presence of the embattled hosts1 and from the flowing brook he stooped to gather five smooth stones for the conflict4 ,the apparent advantages were with the ,philistine2 but the ,unseen1 who was with ,david1 was more than he who was against him4 ,goliath had size1 strength1 experience1 armor1 and weapons4 ,david was young1 small1 and armed only with a sling2 but he had spirit1 courage1 and faith4 ,what to him would forever have remained the romantic stories of a shepherd's life1 now suddenly becomes the source of inspiration and the ground of hope4 ,among his native mountains a lion and a bear had attacked his fold1 and when1 in attempting to rescue the lamb1 the wild beasts rose up against him1 he smote the one and the other1 8and this uncircumcised ,philistine shall be as one of them1 seeing he has defied the armies of the living ,god40 ,those champions met1 one in the pride of his strength and military prowess1 the other in the name of the ,lord of hosts2 one full of contempt for his antagonist1 the other conscious of a just cause4 ,the polished armor1 the brazen shield1 the burnished helmet1 and immense spear of ,goliath1 glittered in the sunlight2 the ruddy cheeks of the shepherd boy glowed with a heroic spirit1 which was his only helmet1 and a brave heart within him1 beating calmly1 was his only shield4 ,swung by unerring skill1 and guided by an invisible hand1 the smooth stone from the ,brook ,elah penetrated the brain of the giant1 and ,david stood in triumph upon his fallen body1 amid the shouts of victory and the benedictions of his countrymen4#chf ,seven miles to the northwest1 on the same road over which the routed ,philistines fled1 is ,gath1 the native city of ,goliath4 ,the conspicuous hill on which it stood rises #bjj feet above the ,plain of ,philistia1 and is now crowned with an old castle1 a ,mohammedan tomb1 and a few huts1 which compose the modern town4 ,besides being the birthplace of the famous warrior1 it is also the scene of a singular episode in the life of ,david4 ,compelled to fly from the presence of ,saul1 he stopped at ,nob1 where1 having obtained from ,abimelech a supply of food and the sword of ,goliath1 he came to ,gath1 either in the hope of not being recognized1 or1 as a fugitive from ,saul's court1 of receiving a welcome from the ,philistines1 with whom the king was then at war4 ,disappointed in both1 and discovering that his fate was sealed1 8he feigned himself mad in their hands1 and scrabbled on the doors of the gate1 and let his spittle fall upon his beard40 ,madmen being privileged characters then1 as they are now in the ,east1 he was permitted to roam at large2 and1 embracing a favorable moment1 he fled to the cave of ,adullam1 where he gathered a small army around him1 and resisted the repeated attempts of ,saul to take his life4#chg ,from ,gath the road runs toward the southeast1 and the next important place is ,eleutheropolis1 six miles distant4 ,the path is rugged1 and alternately crosses stony ridges and small valleys4 ,the village occupies a nook in a green valley1 and is surrounded by low hills4 ,though the ancient city is destitute of special ,biblical interest1 yet its ruins are extensive and unique4 ,within an inclosure #fjj feet square are the remains of a castle1 filling one third of the entire space4 ,the interior contains arches1 vaults1 and marble shafts4 ,two hundred yards up a ravine1 extending eastward1 are massive foundations1 and a fine well1 more than seventy feet deep2 but the chief attraction is the great caves1 unequaled in extent by any in ,syria4 ,the largest of these caverns is #ajj feet high and sixty-five in diameter4 ,lateral galleries connect it with adjoining caves1 which are surmounted with domes1 and ornamented with cornices4 ,in another portion of the town is a vast range of bell-shaped chambers1 connected by arched doorways and subterranean passages4 ,while a few of them are entirely dark1 most of them are lighted by a circular aperture in the top4 ,some regard these caverns as the work of ,idumean ,troglodytes1 while others suppose them to have been excavated for cisterns2 the former is the more probable theory4#chh ,thirteen miles to the southwest is the site of ,lachish1 called by the ,arabs ,um ,lkis4 ,the intervening country is rocky and undulating1 and occasionally dotted with deserted villages4 ,the hill on which the city stood is low and flat1 and is strewn with fragments of marble columns and blocks of hewn stones4 ,lachish was among the cities of ,judah captured by ,joshua1#chi but derives its chief significance from having been fortified by ,rehoboam1#cij and afterward besieged by ,sennacherib4 ,it was while the latter was encamped here that ,king ,hezekiah sent unto him1 saying1 8,i have offended2 return from me2 that which thou puttest on me ,i will bear40 ,to meet the demand for #cjj talents of silver and thirty talents of gold1 ,hezekiah emptied his own treasure and that of the house of the ,lord2 and1 to supply a deficiency that remained1 8he cut off the gold from the doors and pillars of the ,temple40 ,but1 not satisfied with a sum so large1 ,sennacherib sent three of his generals to ,jerusalem to demand the immediate and unconditional surrender of the city4 ,one of the three was ,rabshakeh1 whose blasphemous speech offended ,heaven1 as his proud and defiant words had overwhelmed the king with consternation and fear4 ,that night ,god heard ,hezekiah's prayer1 and vindicated his own insulted majesty4 ,from his throne 8the angel of the ,lord went out1 and smote in the camp of the ,assyrians an hundred fourscore and five thousand40 ,the next morning ,sennacherib departed for ,nineveh1 where he was assassinated by two of his sons while worshiping in the temple of ,nisroch1 his god4 ,in one of his noblest odes1 ,byron has described the destruction of the ,assyrian host3 8,the ,assyrian came down like the wolf on the fold1 ,and his cohorts were gleaming in purple and gold2 ,and the sheen of their spears was like stars on the sea1 ,when the blue wave rolls nightly on deep ,galilee4 8,like the leaves of the forest when ,summer is green1 ,that host with their banners at sunset were seen2 ,like the leaves of the forest when ,autumn hath blown1 ,that host on the morrow lay wither'd and strown4 8,for the ,angel of ,death spread his wings on the blast1 ,and breathed in the face of the foe as he pass'd2 ,and the eyes of the sleepers wax'd deadly and chill1 ,and their hearts but once heaved1 and forever grew still4 8,and there lay the steed with his nostril all wide1 ,and through it there roll'd not the breath of his pride2 ,and the foam of his gasping lay white on the turf1 ,and cold as the spray of the rock-beaten surf4 8,and there lay the rider distorted and pale1 ,with the dew on his brow1 and the rust on his mail2 ,and the tents were all silent1 the banners alone1 ,the lances unlifted1 the trumpet unblown4 8,and the widows of ,ashur are loud in their wail1 ,and the idols are broke in the temple of ,baal2 ,and the might of the ,gentile1 unsmote by the sword1 ,hath melted like snow in the glance of the ,lord60 ,the bleakness of the scenery from ,lachish to ,gaza is relieved by groves of palms1 olives1 and willows1 together with the gardens which surround the half dozen intervening villages4 ,the peasants of these towns are industrious1 and the glee of the children indicated their happiness1 notwithstanding their nudity4 ,the road crosses diagonally several deep torrent beds1 which drain the upland country1 and which continue their courses through the white sand downs to the sea4 ,the approach to ,gaza is among sand-hills and through olive-groves1 and1 after a ride of twelve miles from ,lachish1 the traveler finds himself in this renowned ,philistine city4 ,situated three miles from the sea1 ,gaza is a city of #ae1jjj inhabitants1 #cjj of whom are ,christians and the rest ,moslems4 ,around it1 like a green belt1 are gardens of apricots1 mulberries1 and palms4 ,on its western side runs the same road which was trodden by the ,pharaohs thousands of years ago1 and which leads to the pasture-fields of ,gerar4 ,between the town and the sea is a range of hills1 of drifting sand1 two miles wide4 ,on the east of the city are barren hills1 the highest of which is crowned with a ,mohammedan wely1 and is probably the hill to the top of which ,samson carried the gates of ,gaza4 ,rising from amid the rude buildings of the town is the great mosque1 which was once a ,christian church1 and dedicated to ,john the ,baptist4 ,it has a peaked roof and an octagonal minaret4 ,the interior is #acj feet long1 and is divided into a nave and two aisles by rows of ,corinthian columns4 ,modern ,gaza has neither walls1 gates1 nor fortifications of any kind4 ,though thus exposed to the attacks of the predatory bands of ,bedouins1 yet the inhabitants are seldom molested1 for no other reason1 perhaps1 than the fact that they themselves in part are freebooters4 ,with an antiquity that ranks it among the oldest cities in the world1#cia ,gaza was originally inhabited by the ,hivites1 the descendants of ,canaan1#cib who in the lapse of time were dispossessed by the ,philistines1 who elevated it to the dignity of a royal city4 ,in the days of ,moses it was the home of those giants known as the ,anakims1 whose formidable stature and warlike character alarmed the ,hebrew spies1 and1 though subsequently captured by the tribe of ,judah1 it was repossessed by the sons of ,anak1 who enslaved the ,israelites4#cic ,but ,gaza appears most prominent in sacred history as the scene of many remarkable events in the life of ,samson1 and from him it has derived an imperishable name4 ,in his happier days he here performed one of the most astonishing feats of his supernatural strength4 ,besieged by his enemies1 he arose at midnight and carried the gates of the city upon his shoulders to the top of a hill that is before ,hebron4#cid ,it was prior to his alliance with ,delilah1 and when in full possession of his marvelous strength1 that he thus bade defiance to a whole race of giants4 ,but1 deceived by the duplicity of an unworthy wife1 he afterward became1 in the very city of his triumph1 a blind1 fettered1 imprisoned captive1 the sport of woman1 and the ridicule of man4 ,illustration3 ,,gaza4 ,dreading him more than an army with banners1 the ,philistines had taken every precaution to secure their powerful and determined foe4 ,having consigned him to eternal darkness by the destruction of his eyes1 they fastened his limbs with fetters of brass1 and1 thrusting him into a loathsome dungeon1 appointed him to the menial work of an ,eastern woman4#cie ,but ,he who had chosen him to be the champion and avenger of his people restored his strength1 and with its restoration the day of vengeance returned4 ,deeming his capture a public good1 the ,philistines assembled to offer thanksgiving to their god ,dagon4 ,the day dawned without a cloud1 and the sun rose in beauty upon the ,plains of ,philistia4 ,at an early hour the streets of ancient ,gaza were thronged with an excited multitude1 who were hastening to the great sacrifice1 and rejoicing in the capture of the giant of ,zorah4 ,the grand temple of their idol crowned the loftiest of their hills4 ,its broad flat roof was supported by arches resting on pillars4 ,two central columns1 massive and strong1 and standing near each other1 were the key to the whole support4 ,on the roof of the spacious temple1 and also within the sacred fane1 the lords of the ,philistines1 with their wives1 had assembled to honor their god and enjoy the sports of the occasion4 ,though it was no part of their original purpose that ,samson should add to the joy of the day by exhibitions of his strength1 yet1 as one pleasure never fails to excite a desire for another1 and as a succession of pleasures demands the most extravagant delights1 so1 in the delirious excitement of the moment1 the blind captive is called to make them sport4 ,they had heard of the return of his strength1 and he being now sightless1 they could witness exhibitions of his power without fear of injury to themselves1 as in former days1 so long as they remained beyond his reach4 ,josephus supposes they made him a laughing-stock1 and insulted him in their cups2 but1 rather1 they forced him to perform prodigious exploits of physical strength1 which accounts for his weariness1 and his excuse to lean against the pillars4 ,led by a little ,philistine boy1 he came from his gloomy dungeon4 ,the transition from darkness to light had no effect upon his sightless eyeballs4 ,recalling the havoc he had made among their countrymen at ,lehi1 and not knowing what plans of revenge were then the subject of his thoughts1 many ran at his approach1 while all sought to avoid his grasp4 ,as he advanced he was greeted with shouts of ridicule and peals of laughter4 ,removing the brazen fetters to give full play to his mighty limbs in the contemplated performance1 a guard of ,philistine giants encircle him1 to pierce him with spear and javelin should he attempt to avenge his misfortune4 ,without knowing the manner in which he acted1 we are left to imagine how he made sport for his enemies4 ,what massive block of marble did he lift8 what new lion of ,timnath did he grapple with8 what gate with posts and bar did he carry on his shoulders8 what new cord or green withes did he snap asunder1 as 8tow is broken when it toucheth the fire80 what new ,delilah wove his fresh-grown 8locks with the web1 and fastened them with a pin to a beam10 that he might bear away web1 pin1 and beam8 ,deceived by the docility of his spirit and the obedience of his behavior1 he is called within the temple itself4 ,at length1 wearied with the great exertions he had been required to make1 he unsuspectedly requested of the lad that led him1 8,suffer me that ,i may feel the pillars whereupon the house standeth1 that ,i may lean upon them40 ,sweating1 panting1 weary1 the captive leans for rest against the marble columns1 while1 in fancied security1 the people shout1 joke1 laugh1 rending his very soul4 ,a blind man's eye reveals no heart-secret4 ,samson repents a misspent life1 and1 conscious that his strength was ,heaven's gift1 he prays1 8,o ,lord ,god1 remember me1 ,i pray thee1 and strengthen me1 ,i pray thee1 only this once1 ,o ,god1 that ,i may be at once avenged of the ,philistines for my two eyes40 ,then1 seizing the two pillars1 8he bowed himself with all his might10 and in a moment the roof fell in1 precipitating those on the top into one broken1 dying mass with those within1 and1 slaying more in his death than in his life1 the victor and the vanquished slept the sleep that knows no waking4 ,i wept when ,i remembered the son of ,manoah4 ,he was a child of ,providence4 ,his was a miraculous birth4 ,chosen to punish idolatry1 to deliver his country1 and judge a nation1 ,samson was an army of one4 ,god had purposed to accomplish through him what he had done by the mighty forces of ,joshua1 ,deborah1 ,gideon1 and ,jephthah1 and to illustrate his own divine power in subduing the enemies of his church by the arm of a single man4 ,it was a thought worthy of a ,god4 ,as in other ways of the ,almighty1 the secret of ,samson's power was hidden4 ,unlike ,goliath1 he was an ordinary man in stature3 there was nothing in his physique that indicated his wondrous strength4 ,it was this that confounded his foes1 and impelled them to solicit ,delilah with a bribe to ascertain the secret of his power4 ,as his strength was not in his muscles1 so it was not in the seven locks of his hair4 ,when asleep and at ordinary duties he was as other men1 but when the ,philistines were to be punished1 the ,spirit of the ,lord came upon him4 ,so long as he retained the solitary virtue of secrecy1 and allowed his beard and hair to grow untrimmed1 it pleased the ,lord to use him as he did ,jephthah and ,cyrus1 and as he does a thunderbolt or a volcano1 to punish the wicked2 but when he preferred the smiles of a woman to the benedictions of heaven1 he became as other men4 ,though a failure in life1 he was faithful in death2 and for the faith of his dying act1 ,st4 ,paul records the name of ,samson among the illustrious believers4#cif ,the subsequent history of ,gaza is replete with memorable events4 ,being the key to ,palestine to those on the south1 and the key to ,egypt to those on the north1 it has been frequently subjected to the calamities of war4 ,besieged by ,alexander the ,great1 its defenders surrendered their city with their lives2 and in the fearful conflict the great warrior received a wound in the shoulder1 which threatened to terminate his eventful career4 ,in the first century of our own era it was twice destroyed1 and1 though subsequently rebuilt1 it never attained its ancient splendor4 ,though early visited by the teachers of ,christianity1 yet in the fifth century it contained eight temples dedicated to the worship of heathen gods4 ,in #fcd ,a4,d4 it yielded to the conquering arms of ,mohammed1 and afterward became the birthplace of ,esh-,shfa'y1 the founder of one of the largest of the ,mohammedan sects4 ,in #aaeb ,a4,d4 the ,crusaders found the city deserted1 and1 erecting a strong fortress on the highest hill1 intrusted its defense to the ,knights ,templars4#cig ,captured and sacked by ,saladin in #aagj ,a4,d41 with the exception of a brief interval1 it has remained1 as it is now1 a ,moslem city4 ,askelon is on the sea1 twelve miles to the north from ,gaza4 ,the great route thither runs along the eastern side of the sand downs which separate it from the shore1 and1 continuing northward1 passes through several ,arab towns1 surrounded with orchards of figs and groves of palms4 ,despite the incessant efforts of the villagers1 the drifting sand is annually approaching their homes1 and1 if not resisted by a more formidable barrier1 will completely destroy their gardens and overwhelm their dwellings4 ,it is not uncommon to see trees so buried that only a green twig is visible1 indicating the position of the tree1 while the branches of those not yet entombed are dusted with the flying sand4 ,as one of the five royal cities of the ,philistines1 ,askelon was celebrated for the grandeur of its architecture4 ,it occupied an area not unlike in form an amphitheatre4 ,along the shore extend a series of bold cliffs1 a mile in length and eighty feet high4 ,from the northern end of this range a lofty ridge sweeps round like a semicircle1 first to the eastward1 then to the southward1 and finally1 bending westward1 runs to the sea4 ,within this space are the ruins of the city1 and on the top of this curving ridge the wall was built1 defended by strong towers1 the immense fragments of which1 thrown together in confused heaps1 suggest a destroying angel more powerful than the hand of man4 ,on the east are the remains of a large castle1 and near it is the chief entrance to the city4 ,not far from a ruinous wely are the traces of a noble avenue1 which was once lined with columns1 and within #bjj yards of it is a low excavated area1 on which are thirty large granite and marble shafts4 ,beneath mounds of sand there must be other remains1 perhaps of temples and palaces1 but at present not even the outlines of a building can be traced4 ,whether viewed in its ruins1 or as defenseless against the encroaching waves of sand1 ,askelon wears an air of dreariness as indescribable as it is sad4 ,on her rests the burden of prophecy3 8,askelon shall be a desolation4#cih ,askelon shall not be inhabited40#cii ,illustration3 ,,ruins ,,of ,,askelon4 ,though it was allotted to the tribe of ,judah1 the ,philistines held possession of their city throughout the whole period of the ,jewish monarchy4 ,its significance in sacred history is derived from its gross idolatry1 and the fearful judgments denounced against it by the prophets1 rather than from any great events having occurred within its limits4 ,but1 beyond the inspired record1 it has a history in which figure many illustrious characters4 ,regarding its maritime location as invaluable1 ,herod the ,great adorned the city with baths1 porticoes1 and fountains1 and after his death his sister ,salome resided there in a palace which her brother had built4 ,suffering greatly in the wars between the ,jews and the ,romans1 the original citizens became the allies of the latter1 and ,askelon was the scene of a horrid massacre1 in which #bejj ,jews were put to death4 ,in after years the ,christians and the ,moslems lost and won in turns this important sea-port town4 ,captured by ,baldwin ,,iii4 in #aaeb ,a4,d41 it subsequently reverted to the ,moslems1 but yielded again to the ,crusaders1 under ,richard ,cur de ,lion1 in #aaia ,a4,d41 who compelled ,saladin to abandon this stronghold2 and when1 in turn1 the ,christians were expelled1 ,askelon began to wane1 and to-day it is an uninhabited town4 ,less than #ajj yards to the northeast stands the wretched village of ,el-,jrah1 the modern representative of the royal city4 ,through its gardens the road leads to ,ashdod1 eight miles to the north4 ,two miles on the way is the town of ,mejdel1 the largest and most flourishing of all the villages on the ,plain of ,philistia4 ,the buildings are large and well constructed1 the streets are wide and clean1 and the scenery and gardens around it are exceedingly beautiful4 ,passing through the village of ,hammeh1 the path runs along the sandy downs1 and after ascending a low ridge1 enters ,ashdod on the south4 ,its mud houses are located on the declivity of a hill1 and near it is a lake #ejj yards in circumference4 ,though once the capital of a lordship1 yet ,ashdod is without antique ruins1 and the traveler is left to record its history amid the beautiful gardens1 without the remains of temples and palaces to aid his recollection4 ,it was here the ,ark of the ,lord was brought after the battle of ,aphek1 and the ,philistines1 deeming it a religious trophy1 placed it in the temple of their idol1 8,and when they of ,ashdod arose early on the morrow1 behold1 ,dagon was fallen on his face to the earth before the ,ark of the ,lord40 ,elevating their deity to his place1 the ,philistines found him in the dust again on the second night4 ,smitten by the ,lord with pestilence for their impiety1 in their distress they sent the ,ark to ,gath4#djj ,three centuries later ,ashdod was dismantled by ,king ,uzziah2#dja and it is afterward mentioned by ,nehemiah1 who reproaches the ,jews for having there married heathen wives after their return from captivity4#djb ,called by the ,greeks ,azotus1 it was here that ,philip the ,evangelist was found after the baptism of the eunuch4#djc ,but ,ashdod is conspicuous in profane history for having withstood a siege of twenty-nine years1 when invested by ,psammetichus1 king of ,egypt1 which is the longest siege on record4 ,illustration3 ,,ashdod4 ,twenty miles to the north1 situated on the coast1 is ancient ,joppa4 ,from ,ashdod thither the route lies through one of the richest sections of the ,plain of ,philistia4 ,it is a gentle depression coming down from the east1 three miles wide1 through the centre of which runs a deep1 winding torrent bed4 ,the soil is loamy1 and yields the finest grain raised in ,syria4 ,among the large and prosperous villages that dot its fertile sides are ,batneah and ,el-,burka2 but beyond this oasis the land is stony and barren1 and the wretched hovels of which the towns are composed1 together with the squalidity of the peasants1 recall the prophetic denunciation1 8,a bastard shall dwell in ,ashdod1 and ,i will cut off the pride of the ,philistines40#djd ,passing through ,yebna1 the ,jabneh of the ,bible1#dje and leaving ,ekron1#djf five miles to the east the road crosses diagonally the great ,wady ,surr1 which drains the western section of the ,judean ,hills from ,hebron to ,bethel4 ,less than two miles from the sea are the remains of a ,roman bridge which once spanned the torrent1 and from this ruin the path declines westward to the coast1 when1 turning northward1 it follows the beach to ,yfa4 ,standing upon a rock whose western base is washed by the ,mediterranean1 ,joppa is one of the oldest cities in the world4 ,though its authentic history begins with the partitioning of ,palestine into tribal possessions1 yet1 according to ,pliny1 it existed prior to the ,flood4 ,called by ,joshua ,japho1#djg by ,luke ,joppa1#djh by the ,arabs ,yfa1 and by the ,franks ,jaffa1 it was originally allotted to the tribe of ,dan1#dji but remained in comparative obscurity till the reign of ,solomon1 when it became the chief maritime city of his kingdom4 ,being the nearest harbor to ,jerusalem1 the floats of pine and cedar from ,lebanon for the building of the first and second temples were landed here1#daj and hence transported to the ,holy ,city on the back of camels4 ,centuries later1 ,jonah here embarked for ,tarshish1#daa and in our own era here lived the benevolent ,tabitha1 whom ,peter restored to life1#dab and here was the home of ,simon1 with whom the apostle lodged4#dac ,the only antiquity to detain the traveler a single hour is the traditional house of ,simon4 ,like all ,eastern dwellings1 it is constructed of stone1 square in form1 with a flat roof1 and may have stood for centuries1 as1 without violence1 it will endure for hundreds of years to come4 ,standing near the seaside1 both the location and structure of the building are in harmony with the inspired narrative1 and a venerable tradition points to it as once the residence of a tanner4 ,the entrance is through a low gallery1 before which the servants of ,cornelius stood inquiring for ,peter4 ,within is a small court-yard1 containing a well of excellent water1 and from the court a stone staircase leads to the roof1 from which ,i enjoyed a commanding view of the sea1 over whose blue waters had glanced the apostolic eye as ,peter sat beneath those clear expanded heavens from which descended the symbolic sheet1 opening to his ,jewish understanding the purposes of the divine mind4 ,plucking a leaf from the solitary tree adorning the court1 ,i entered the interior1 which is now occupied by the ,moslems as a place of prayer1 and by whom it is revered no less for its antiquity than for its traditional sacredness4 ,excepting its gardens1 ,joppa is neither clean nor beautiful4 ,the streets are narrow and irregular1 and the best buildings have no claim to architectural elegance4 ,inclosed by a stone wall1 the city has a single gate1 opening toward the east4 ,near it1 and around a pretty ,saracenic fountain1 are the famous fruit-bazars of ,jaffa1 where are sold the finest oranges and lemons in the world4 ,here also is the seat of justice1 where the cadi#dad tries all civil and criminal suits1 sitting1 as in ,bible times1#dae in the gate of the city4 ,as of old1 ,joppa is a sea-port town of considerable trade1 and1 if possessed of a good harbor1 would be the most flourishing maritime city of ,palestine4 ,the products of its immense fruit-orchards1 together with the silk and soap here manufactured1 are exported in large quantities to the cities on the ,mediterranean coast4 ,illustration3 ,,jaffa ,,from ,,the ,,north4 ,possessing a population of #ejjj souls1 a fifth of whom are ,christians1 #bjj ,jews1 and the rest ,moslems1 the basis of social and political distinction is religion rather than nationality4 ,the ,mohammedans have several mosques1 the ,jews a synagogue1 the ,latins1 ,greeks1 and ,armenians have each a convent1 for the entertainment of pilgrims en route for the ,holy ,city4 ,under the direction of ,dr4 ,barclay1 who combines the two professions of physician and missionary1 a society has here been formed called the 8,abrahamic ,coalition10 the object of which is the gathering together in one large community all the indigent ,jews in the ,east1 and locate them on the ,plain of ,sharon1 securing to each a small piece of land1 and otherwise aiding the colonists in practical agriculture4 ,as illustrating the changeless character of ,eastern customs1 before the door of our inn stood a magician performing astonishing feats with serpents4 ,a ,nubian by birth1 his face was black and glossy1 his eyes small and snakish1 and his countenance expressive of great cunning4 ,with a smile1 he drew from the ample folds of his bosom three large black serpents1 which had been nestling next his naked breast2 and caressing them in the fondest manner1 he lifted them up to his neck1 and allowed them to entwine themselves about his head4 ,subject to the will of their charmer1 they obeyed his magical words1 and the magician of ,joppa vividly recalled the magicians of ,egypt4#daf ,once more our faces were turned toward the ,holy ,city4 ,on leaving ,joppa1 our path for half an hour lay between enormous hedges of the cactus plant1 inclosing orange and lemon groves1 which cover an area of many miles in extent4 ,the air was surcharged with the fragrance of those delicious fruits1 and beneath the ladened trees lay heaps of lemons and oranges1 like apples in an ,american orchard4 ,charmed with a ride so delightful1 we were soon upon the ,plain of ,sharon1 stretching far to the northeastward1 to the white and purple ,hills of ,benjamin4 ,passing the hamlet of ,yasr on our left1 in thirty minutes we entered the pine-groves of ,beit ,dejn4 ,the declining sun forewarning us of approaching night1 we gave loose rein to our horses1 and bounded over that glorious plain4 ,as far as the eye could reach1 crimson anemones1 tufts of lily leaves1 and white and yellow daisies covered the ground like a carpet of many colors1 while here and there stood the shepherd's black tent1 with herds and flocks around it1 and on the evening air came the soft notes of his flute4 ,in the starlight away to the east1 like a dark column standing out against the sky of night1 appeared the solitary tower of ,ramleh4 ,at seven ,p4,m4 we were knocking at the iron gate of the ,latin ,monastery1 and1 with a courtesy for which others have not given them credit1 the ,franciscan brothers received us to their retreat1 while their tall and graceful superior entertained us with an ease and dignity worthy a ,christian gentleman4 ,after an excellent dinner in the refectory1 a quiet-looking friar led us1 by the light of a single wax taper1 across a dark court-yard to a small chamber containing four beds1 neat and clean1 as if the work of a woman's hand4 ,ramleh is nine miles to the southeast from ,joppa1 and is one of the best-built towns on the ,plain of ,sharon4 ,it is environed for miles with fig-orchards and orange-groves4 ,containing a population of #cjjj inhabitants1 the majority of whom are ,greek ,christians1 tradition identities ,ramleh with the ,ramah of ,samuel1 the birthplace of ,nicodemus1 and the native city of ,joseph of ,arimathea4 ,chosen by the ,crusaders to be their southern rendezvous1 it became the head-quarters of ,richard of ,england in #aaia ,a4,d4 ,its chief architectural attraction is a noble square tower #abj feet high1 built of hewn stone1 and standing a mile to the west from the town1 amid the ruins of a large quadrangular inclosure4 ,there is nothing1 either in its construction or in history1 to indicate whether it it is the campanile of a ,christian church or the minaret of a mosque4 ,a flight of stone steps1 narrow and spiral1 leads to the top1 from which is obtained a view of surpassing beauty4 ,in all its amplitude and richness1 the ,plain of ,sharon spreads out before the eye1 extending from the roots of ,carmel on the north1 to the promontory of ,joppa on the south1 and from the hills of ,samaria and ,judea on the east1 to the ,mediterranean on the west2 while on every hand appear fields of grain1 groves of fruit-trees1 and towns1 whose white domes shine in the sunlight like diamonds in a circlet of emeralds4 ,illustration3 ,,ramleh1 ,,or ,,the 8,,look-,,out40 ,a ride of forty minutes through an embowered avenue brought us to ,ludd1 the ,lod of the ,old ,testament1#dag and the ,lydda of the ,new4#dah ,it is an ,arab town of #bjjj inhabitants1 and1 though unsurpassed by the beauty of its environs1 it is neither remarkable for the elegance of its buildings nor the regularity of its streets4 ,to the ,christian1 ,lydda is interesting as the place where ,peter cured ,eneas of palsy1 and where he was stopping when he was informed of ,tabitha's death4 ,to ,englishmen it is memorable as the birthplace of ,st4 ,george1 ,england's patron saint1 and as containing his tomb1 in which he was interred near the close of the third century1 after his martyrdom in ,nicomedia1 under the relentless ,diocletian4 ,according to ,william of ,tyre1 the ,emperor ,justinian reared a noble church over the ashes of the saint and martyr1 which1 at a later period1 was destroyed by the revengeful ,moslems4 ,rebuilt by ,richard ,cur de ,lion1 it was partially destroyed again by the troops of ,saladin4 ,the walls and a part of the vault of the eastern niche of this monumental structure remain1 adorned with pilasters1 capitals1 and cornice4 ,on the south side of the grand aisle is a pointed arch of great elegance1 supported by massive clustered columns with marble ,corinthian capitals1 forming one of the most picturesque ruins in ,palestine4 ,illustration3 ,,church ,,of ,,saint ,,george4 ,forty minutes from ,ludd we passed the town of ,jimzu1#dai and just beyond the road branched1 one path diverging to the right1 running through ,wady ,suleimn1 and the other ascending the steep acclivities of ,bethhoron the ,nether4 ,though it is exceedingly rugged1 yet1 as it passes over one of the grandest battle-fields in sacred history1 we chose the latter4 ,now began the toil of the journey4 ,the verdure had disappeared1 and the white limestone rocks protruded above the scanty soil1 leaving only intervening patches of tillable land1 which was being plowed as we passed4 ,disobeying the divine command1 and disregarding the fitness of nature1 a peasant was plowing with an ox and an ass1#dbj and another with an ass and a camel4 ,passing ,um ,rush in two hours from ,jimzu1 we toiled up a mountain path1 and at noon reached ,lower ,bethhoron4 ,memorable in ,bible history as the second stage of the flight of the five kings of the ,amorites1 the roughness of the scene is in harmony with the horrors of war4 ,the surface of the land is broken into circular rocky hills1 around the base of which equally stony valleys wind4 ,from the hill-sides the rocks protrude like terraces1 rising with much regularity one above the other4 ,the modern town is perched on a rocky ridge1 and called by the ,arabs ,beit ',ur et-,tahta4 ,amid its sterility a few half-naked peasants lay basking in the genial sunshine of spring1 who greeted us as we passed with a lazy smile4 ,though located on the northwest border of ,benjamin1 the city belonged to ,ephraim1 and from that tribe it was taken and allotted to the ,levites4#dba ,passing over the roughest tract of land above the sea1 in less than an hour we reached ,upper ,bethhoron4 ,bearing the ,arabic name of ,beit ,ur el-,fka1 it is a small village1 the huts of which are composed of large hewn stones once belonging to more pretentious buildings4 ,sturdy men sat smoking on the rocks1 and near them women were playing with their children4 ,among the maidens were the sheikh's daughters1 who wore about the head a circlet of silver coins4 ,these ornaments are a maiden's dowry4 ,surveying the surrounding country from the roof of the sheikh's house1 the famous battle-field of ,gibeon lay before me4 ,seven miles to the southeast is ,gibeon1 whose conical summit is just hidden by the loftier peaks of ,benjamin4 ,less than three miles to the northwest is ,lower ,bethhoron1 and five miles to the south1 on the summit of a long1 low ridge1 is the small hamlet of ,ylo1 the traditional site of ,ajalon4 ,between the two hills is the green valley of ,ajalon1 now called ,merj ,ibn ',omeir1 expanding1 as it opens1 into the ,plain of ,philistia4 ,having formed a powerful coalition1 the chiefs of the ,amorites1 with the ,king of ,jerusalem at their head1 had besieged the city of ,gibeon4 ,on the eve of the battle the ,gibeonites sent to ,joshua for relief1 whom they had previously deceived into an alliance1 and found him on the ,plain of ,jericho4 ,though despising a treaty founded in craft1 yet appreciating the obligations of an oath above a temporary inconvenience1 and guided by the faint light of the stars1 the ,israelitish chieftain passed up the ,plain of ,jericho to ,wady ,frah1 and1 turning westward1 he reached the scene of the conflict1 after a forced march by night1 in the early dawn of the next morning4 ,falling with irresistible surprise and power upon the confederate kings1 8he slew them with great slaughter at ,gibeon40 ,flying before his victorious arms1 the remnant went 8along the way that goeth up to ,bethhoron40 ,outstripping their pursuers1 the ,amorites continued their flight 8in the going down to ,bethhoron40 ,reaching the ridge on which we stand with all his 8mighty men0 around him1 ,joshua beheld the valley through which the fugitives were escaping1 and1 despairing of overtaking them if the day was not prolonged1 he invoked the divine interposition in his behalf4 ,moved by a sublime faith1 he stretched forth the arm that bore the conqueror's spear1 and1 in the presence of all ,israel1 said1 8,sun1 stand thou still on ,gibeon1 and thou1 ,moon1 in the valley of ,ajalon40 ,respecting the faith of his servant and answering his prayer1 ,jehovah interposed2 8and the sun stood still1 and the moon stayed1 until the people had avenged themselves upon their enemies2 and there was no day like that before it or after it1 that the ,lord hearkened unto the voice of a man2 for the ,lord fought for ,israel40 ,receiving more than he had asked for1 a hail-storm came to his assistance1 and after it had accomplished its terrible work1 killing foes but sparing friends1 ,joshua and his warriors descended the declivities of ,bethlehem1 and pressed the remnant of a once proud foe so hard as to compel the five kings to take refuge in the great cave of ,makkedah1 around which he encamped for the night1 and on the morrow hung the royal fugitives4#dbb 8,god's testimony is in the rocks40 ,the correspondence between the inspired account and the facts as they now appear1 after the lapse of twenty-three centuries1 illustrates the accuracy of sacred history4 ,the night's march from ,gilgal to ,gibeon1 a distance of less than twenty-five miles1 was not only possible1 but can now be accomplished by any ordinary pedestrian4 ,the going up to ,bethhoron the ,upper1 and the going down to ,bethhoron the ,nether1 correspond with the altitude of the former from ,gibeon1 and the depression of the latter from ,beit el-,fka4 ,the relative locations of ,gibeon and ,ajalon to ,upper ,bethhoron1 and the probable position of the sun and moon in the heavens at that time1 agree with the statement as to where ,joshua was when he invoked the prolongation of the day2 and his subsequent pursuit of the foe in the direction of ,azekah1 ,makkedah1 and ,jarmuth is confirmed by the identification of those places4 ,there is nothing in the text indicating that the prayer of ,joshua was offered late in the afternoon1 and that1 as ,gibeon is on the east of ,upper ,bethhoron and ,ajalon on the west1 therefore the sun could not have stood still on the former nor the moon on the latter4 ,it was probably not noon when he invoked the lengthening of the day4 ,the sun had not yet passed the meridian of ,gibeon1 while over the western vale of ,ajalon the faint crescent of an old moon still lingered1 just as it appeared to me4 ,hence1 standing between the two planets as they rode high in the heavens above him1 and between the two cities on the earth1 he gave forth his miraculous command with the utmost accuracy2 while from the western sea came that fearful hail-storm driving up the valleys below1 killing more than had been slain by the sword1 and from the eastern border of the otherwise dark storm-cloud was reflected the light of the motionless sun and moon4 ,leaving ,upper ,bethhoron1 our path lay for some time along the old ,roman road1 sections of which remain as perfect as when the chariot of the proud ,cestius was driven over it4 ,turning to the southeast1 in two hours we reached the celebrated city of ,gibeon4 ,like most ,oriental towns1 it crowns the summit of a conspicuous hill1 which1 being separated from the surrounding hills1 rises in isolation from a noble plain4 ,the encircling plains are unsurpassed in ,southern ,palestine for the richness of their soil1 and their meadow-like smoothness and verdure4 ,covering many acres are vineyards1 olive-groves1 and almond orchards4 ,such is the peculiar formation of the hill on which the town is built1 that the rocks protruding from the sides serve the double purpose of steps and terraces4 ,over the summit are scattered the small stone buildings of ,el-,jib1 which in part are composed of materials of great antiquity4 ,without walls and gates1 the city is destitute of fortifications1 and the crooked1 unpaved streets are accessible to all4 ,the present inhabitants are an illustration that character1 like names1 is transmitted from one generation to another4 ,in their address and shrewdness they resemble their ancestors4 ,the ,sheikh of ,gibeon is a man of medium height1 and1 unlike his countrymen1 is emotional1 communicative1 and exceedingly gracious4 ,pressing us to enter his khan1#dbc he refreshed us with coffee1 and1 failing to persuade us to remain during the night1 he accompanied us through the village1 and received our gifts with flowing eyes and many bows4 ,nor are the children less crafty4 ,boys kissed our hand for paras1 and for a piastre the maidens at the fountains let down their pitchers from their heads that we might drink4 ,reading the story of their ancestral cunning on the spot1 we could easily fancy their fathers gathering together the emblems of deception to decoy the ,israelites into an alliance that brought protection to themselves1 but war to their allies2 and with less difficulty their descendants could collect tattered garments1 clouted shoes1 rent wine-skin bottles1 musty bread1 and jaded asses1 and with equal confidence declare themselves to be 8embassadors from a far country40 ,illustration3 ,,gibeon4 ,falling to the tribe of ,benjamin in the division of the land1#dbd ,gibeon afterward became a ,levitical city4#dbe ,subsequently to the destruction of ,nob by ,saul1 it was the seat of the tabernacle till the completion of the ,temple4#dbf ,on the eastern side of the hill is a large well of delicious water4 ,springing up in a cave excavated in the solid rock1 the water was originally conducted to a reservoir below1 which measures #abj feet in length and #ajj in breadth4 ,formerly it was called the 8,pool of ,gibeon10 and around its peaceful waters the rival armies of ,israel and ,judah met in battle4 ,it was here that ,abner challenged ,joab to terminate the strife by a gladiatorial fight between twenty-four chosen mentwelve representing ,david1 and twelve representing ,ishbosheth4 ,but so equal were the champions in skill and power1 8that they caught every man his fellow by the head1 and thrust his sword in his fellow's side1 so they fell down together40#dbg ,the death of all the combatants leaving the issue of the contest undecided1 the two armies sprang to the fight on the adjoining plain1 and1 after a sore battle1 ,abner was defeated1 and the claims of ,david to the kingdom of all ,israel were confirmed by a decisive victory4#dbh ,thirty-three years after1 by the 8great stone which is in ,gibeon10 in the same highway now trodden by the feet of careless pilgrims1 8,joab took ,amasa by the beard with the right hand to kiss him10 and1 with a sword in the other1 treacherously slew his cousin4#dbi ,but the glory of ,gibeon is the dream and prayer of ,solomon4 ,sanctifying the morning of a long and eventful reign by acts of devotion1 he came from ,jerusalem to worship the ,lord4 ,upon a great altar which he had reared he offered a thousand burnt sacrifices1 and that night in a dream he communed with the ,god of his fathers1 and asking wisdom to govern his kingdom rather than wealth and honor1 he received a wise and understanding heart4#dcj ,a mile to the south1 beyond a green and lovely plain1 is ,mizpeh8,the ,look-out0one of the oldest watch-towers in ,southern ,palestine4 ,with it stand connected many of the most thrilling events in ,jewish history4 ,chosen in the infancy of the nation for the advantages it afforded as a point of observation in times of war1 it subsequently became the national rendezvous1 where the tribes were accustomed to meet to worship ,jehovah1 to make war1 to conclude peace1 and elect a king4 ,justly aggrieved at the insult offered the whole country by the citizens of ,gibeah in refusing to surrender the young men who had committed the horrid crime on the person of the ,levite's concubine1 the eleven tribes here assembled1 and1 having vowed never to return to their homes till the inhabitants of ,gibeah were punished1 they marched forth to that series of battles in which thousands fell1 and in which the tribe of ,benjamin was well-nigh exterminated4#dca ,two hundred and eighty-six years later1 ,samuel gathered the armies of ,israel at ,mizpeh to fight against the ,philistines1 and after their return from the slaughter of the foe he set up a memorial-stone and called it ,ebenezer4#dcb ,a quarter of a century thereafter the nation reassembled to choose a king2 and here1 for the first time in ,israel1 when the people beheld the majestic form of ,saul1 the son of ,kish1 on whom the lot had fallen1 their loyal exclamations awakened the echoes of the surrounding hills8,god save the king60#dcc ,fortifying it for the protection of his frontier1 ,king ,asa removed from ,rama the materials with which ,baasha had constructed his battlements1 and with them built a strong fort4 ,five centuries after the coronation of ,saul1 ,ishmael1 of the royal family of ,judah1 here surprised and assassinated ,gedaliah1 the ,chaldean governor1 who1 during the ,jewish captivity1 resided at ,mizpeh4#dcd ,called by the natives ,neby ,samwl1 after the honored son of ,hannah1 the hill has an altitude of #fjj feet above the surrounding plain4 ,on its evenly-terraced sides the fig and vine grow luxuriantly4 ,the summit is dotted with a few rude dwellings1 composed of the remains of nobler edifices4 ,the ruins of departed greatness are every where visible1 and in the wall of a caravansary are imbedded shattered capitals and broken columns4 ,in rude mimicry of happier days1 the peasants have excavated small courts to the depth of several feet in the native rock in front of their unpretending homes4 ,rising1 as if by way of contrast1 from amid these hovels is a large but deserted mosque4 ,erected by the ,crusaders1 it was originally a ,christian church4 ,constructed in the form of a ,latin cross1 the interior is ornamented with ,saracenic arches4 ,within is the traditional tomb of ,samuel1 which1 unlike the sepulchres of other prophets1 has neither altar nor ornaments4 ,attached to the mosque is a graceful minaret1 which rises #ajj feet above the summit of the hill1 from the balcony of which ,i obtained an extraordinary view of ,southern ,palestine4 ,as far as the eye could reach1 the land of ,judea was spread out before me1 broken by deep ravines and dotted with conical hills4 ,to the north was ,gibeon1 and beyond appeared ,alaroth1 ,beeroth1 the dark peak of ,ophrah1 and the famous rock of ,rimmon2 lining the distant horizon to the northeast were ,gibeah of ,saul1 ,michmash of ,jonathan1 and the ,hills of ,gilead2 over a forest of summits to the east were the ,mountains of ,moabthat ever-visible wall of limestone2 beyond1 the small hamlet of ,hanna2 to the southeast rose the domes and minarets of ,jerusalem and ,bethlehem1 and the tomb-like form of ,herodium2 to the south were the vine-clad hills of ,hebron and the home of ,samson2 while due west1 and as far as the eye could penetrate north and south1 was the white shore of the ,mediterranean1 with the blue waters of the sea mingling with the mists of the western sky4 ,such was the prospect from ,mizpeh1 which1 in the mighty past1 often met the eye of ,samuel1 ,saul1 and ,solomon2 and1 though he occupied a stand-point a few miles to the eastward1 but of greater altitude1 such must have been the vision of ,moses from the summit of ,pisgah ere he entered into glory4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,northern ,palestine4 ,gibeah4 ,birthplace of ,king ,saul4 ,historical ,events4 ,thrilling ,story of ,rizpah watching her ,dead ,sons4 ,identity of the ,city4 ,field of the ,arrow4 ,parting of ,david and ,jonathan4 ,nob4 ,massacre of the ,priests4 ,the ,view4 ,birthplace of ,jeremiah4 ,geba4 ,pottage4 ,benighted4 ,yusef ,shang1 of ,beeroth4 ,a ,night of strange ,experience4 ,town of ,beeroth4 ,ancient ,bethel4 ,its ,desolation4 ,site of the ,city4 ,abraham's ,altar4 ,parting of ,abraham and ,lot4 ,the ,fountain4 ,jacob's ,flight and ,dream4 ,idolatry4 ,prophecy fulfilled4 ,route to ,shiloh4 ,romantic ,scenery4 ,robbers' ,fountain4 ,wild ,glen4 ,robbers4 ,their ,dance4 ,sinjil4 ,shiloh4 ,remains4 ,site discovered in #ahch4 ,tower4 ,damsels of ,shiloh carried off4 ,death of ,eli4 ,approach of the ,robbers4 ,an ,attack4 ,resistance4 ,again assailed4 ,again resist4 ,revolvers drawn4 ,escape4 ,overtaken4 ,third ,attack4 ,revolvers in demand4 ,sixteen against ,four4 ,serious ,moment4 ,one of the ,party whipped4 ,narrow ,escape4 ,lebonah4 ,ride to ,nablous4 ,grand ,view4 ,evening on the ,plain of ,mukhrah4 ,antiquity of ,nablous4 ,history4 ,its beautiful ,situation4 ,population4 ,inside ,view of the ,town4 ,character of the ,people4 ,christian ,school4 ,origin of the ,samaritans4 ,remnant of the ,nation4 ,their ,creed4 ,their religious ,peculiarities4 ,their ,high-priest4 ,their sacred ,writings4 ,vale of ,shechem4 ,its ,length and ,beauty4 ,cursings and ,blessings of the ,law4 ,the ,scene4 ,great ,congregation4 ,twin ,mountains4 ,jacob's ,well4 ,history4 ,sweet ,water4 ,evidence of its ,antiquity4 ,jesus at the ,well4 ,woman of ,samaria4 ,accuracy of its evangelical ,history4 ,well ,sold4 ,tomb of ,joseph4 ,symbol of his ,life4 ,ascent of ,mount ,ebal4 ,twenty ,lepers4 ,ascent of ,mount ,gerizim4 ,almond-groves4 ,ruins on the ,summit4 ,holy of ,holies of the ,samaritans4 ,traditions4 ,not the ,scene of the ,offering of ,isaac4 ,samaritan ,passover4 ,impressive ,moment4 ,lambs slain4 ,the ,feast4 ,,the day was all that the most romantic tourist or thoughtful traveler could have desired1 when1 at three o'clock on ,monday afternoon1 in the month of ,april1 we left ,jerusalem for the last time1 on our long tour through ,northern ,palestine4 ,passing out of the ,damascus ,gate1 ,i ascended the rocky ridge over the grotto of ,jeremiah1 and looked down upon the ,holy ,city with the fondness of one bidding adieu to the scenes of his childhood4 ,a gentle breeze was blowing from the ,western ,sea1 and the flag of our country floated from the summit of ,zion4 ,the clattering of horses' hoofs on the pavements below told me my companions were coming1 and1 turning to the northwest1 the 8,city of the ,great ,king0 faded forever from my view4 ,crossing the hill ,scopus1 we were soon on the great caravan route leading from ,egypt to ,damascus4 ,for half an hour our path lay through an open and undulating country1 when it passed between two conical hills,shft on the west1 and ,nob on the east4 ,less than a mile beyond the latter is ,gibeah1 the birthplace of ,king ,saul4#dce ,called by the ,arabs ,tuleil el-,fl8the ,hill of the ,beans0it resembles a perfect cone when viewed from a distance4 ,rising from a rich plain1 it is an object of universal attraction4 ,terraced from base to summit1 it presents to the eye a beautiful appearance1 as the green circles of corn mingle with the white limestone soil4 ,on the summit are the remains of a tower or palace1 fifty-six feet long and forty-eight wide1 and by some unknown force the huge blocks of stone have been thrown together in a form not unlike a pyramid4 ,few places in the ,holy ,land fill so large a space in the inspired volume as ,gibeah4 ,coming from ,bethlehem on his way to ,mount ,ephraim1 the unfortunate ,levite at nightfall turned in hither1 and was received into the house of a peasant4 ,that night was committed an offense by the young men of the city1 which resulted in one of the most terrible battles on record4 ,to punish the offenders and avenge the insult1 around this hill all ,israel gathered for battle against the ,benjamites1 and1 though the former were repeatedly repulsed1 they at length triumphed and well-nigh exterminated the tribe of ,benjamin4#dcf ,three centuries later1 after the death of all the actors in that mournful tragedy1 ,gibeah rose to royal significance4 ,here resided ,kish1 unto whom was born ,saul1 than whom 8there was not among the children of ,israel a goodlier person than he2 from his shoulders and upward he was higher than any of the people40#dcg ,from here his father sent ,saul to recover the strayed asses1 and1 while looking for the asses1 he found a kingdom4 ,returning from ,rameh after his coronation1 he chose ,gibeah as the seat of his new government4#dch ,from this first royal city in ,palestine he went forth to fight his first battle1 which was against the ,ammonites1 who had besieged ,jabesh-gilead4#dci ,after his rejection by ,samuel at ,gilgal1 hither ,saul returned in disgrace2#ddj and it was here1 in those dark days of disappointment which followed1 that an evil spirit came upon him1 and1 to soothe his troubled soul by the soft music of his harp1 the shepherd-boy of ,bethlehem was summoned to the king's presence4#dda ,here the high-minded ,jonathan conceived his more than woman's love for the son of ,jesse4#ddb ,forgetting earlier attachments and ,david's well-earned renown1 here1 in a fit of passion1 ,saul threw his javelin at the youthful warrior4#ddb ,here he gave his daughter ,michal in marriage to ,david2#ddb and here the true-hearted wife rescued her persecuted husband from the murderous hand of her father1 and deceived the king by placing an image in her bed4#ddc ,here the unwilling ,michal was given to ,phalti1#ddd and from ,gibeah ,saul and his sons went forth to the fatal battle of ,gilboa4#dde ,forty years after the death of the king the tragical history of ,gibeah closed1 as it had commenced1 in a scene of blood4 ,for an offense1 the history of which is neither recorded by sacred or profane writers1 the ,almighty sent a famine of three years' continuance upon the land1 and when ,david inquired of the ,lord the cause1 he was informed1 8,it is for ,saul and for his bloody house1 because he slew the ,gibeonites40#ddf ,josephus supposes that ,saul had violated the treaty which ,joshua had made with the men of ,gibeon1 and had attempted to slay the entire population of the city4 ,wishing to relieve his kingdom from the miseries of a famine1 ,david summoned the ,gibeonites to his presence1 to ascertain the nature of the redress they demanded4 ,they demanded the surrender of seven of the descendants of ,saul to be hung in ,gibeah1 and their request was granted4 ,five of the victims were the sons of ,merab1 whom ,michal had brought up after her sister's death1 and the other two were the sons of ,saul by his wife ,rizpah4#ddg ,on the same day the sons and grandsons of ,israel's first king were executed together1 to expiate the offense of a father long since dead4 ,less fortunate than the offspring of ,merab1 the sons of ,rizpah left a mother to mourn their untimely end4 ,for tenderness of affection1 for the depth of maternal grief1 and for the lengthened period of watching and mourning1 the story of ,rizpah has no parallel in the literature of any nation4 ,david's sorrow for ,absalom was sincere1 keen1 and overwhelming1 but the grief of ,rizpah was the sorrow of a mother4 8,and ,rizpah1 the daughter of ,aiah1 took sackcloth and spread it for her upon the rock1 from the beginning of harvest until water dropped upon them out of heaven1 and suffered neither the birds of the air to rest upon them by day1 nor the beasts of the fields by night40 ,such was the mournful spectacle that that broken-hearted mother presented to all who passed by1 sitting beside the bones of her dead sons all through the long ,syrian summer1 from ,april till ,october1 neither permitting the vulture to prey upon them by day nor the hyena by night4 ,time had assuaged her grief1 and ,david ordered that the bones of her sons should be interred with those of ,saul and ,jonathan1 in the country of ,zelah1 in the sepulchre of ,kish4#ddh ,the identity of ,gibeah as the scene of so many important events is sustained by evidence no less abundant than indubitable4 ,in his description of the march of ,titus to ,jerusalem1 ,josephus informs us that the ,roman general halted at ,gibeah1 thirty stadia from ,jerusalem1 which exactly corresponds with the distance between this hill and the ,jewish capital4 ,during the night a ,roman legion1 coming from ,emmaus1 joined the main army here1 where is the point of junction between the two great routes from the north and west1 and on the following morning the combined forces moved on to ,scopus1 from whence they beheld the ,holy ,city4 ,three centuries later1 ,jerome1 in describing the journey of ,lady ,paula to ,jerusalem1 represents her as coming up from ,joppa via the two ,bethhorons1 with ,ajalon and ,gibeon on the right1 and stopping at ,gibeah1 where 8she called to mind the old story of the ,levite and his concubine40 ,thus the crimes of a city perpetuate the memory of its site4 ,south of ,gibeah is the field which contained the stone ,ezel1 where occurred the affecting interview between ,david and ,jonathan1 and where the latter discharged the signal arrow for the escape of the former4 ,behind one of the many jutting rocks which here lift their naked crowns on high the fugitive found a hiding-place1 where he remained till1 according to a previous agreement1 ,jonathan came1 shot an arrow beyond a little lad1 and cried1 8,is not the arrow beyond thee80 which was the signal that ,saul was intent on killing ,david4 ,the two friends met1 embraced1 and wept2 and1 after renewing their covenant1 ,jonathan returned to ,gibeah1 and ,david fled to ,nob4 ,his presence excited the fears of the priest ,abimelech1 which he soon1 however1 allayed by a plausible story1 and from his hand received the sword of ,goliath1 and the shew-bread to which our ,lord alludes4#ddi ,it was because of this kindness to a public enemy that ,abimelech was summoned to the presence of the enraged king1 and sentenced to death by him1 with all of his father's house4 ,revering the sacred person of a priest1 no ,israelite would execute the royal sentence4 ,the work of executioner fell to the lot of ,doeg1 the stranger1 the shepherd1 and the spy4 ,unappeased by the slaughter of eighty-five innocent priests1 ,saul smote the city of ,nob with the edge of the sword4#dej ,two places are designated as the probable site of this ancient ,levitical cityone containing the famous tomb of ,el-,messahney1 near the ,tombs of the ,judges1 and the other a conical peak less than a mile to the south from ,gibeah4 ,the former has the advantage of an acknowledged ,jewish sepulchre1 while the latter has that of location4 ,the view from the summit of ,gibeah is as interesting as it is commanding4 ,three miles to the southeast is ,anta1 the ,anathoth of the ,bible and the birthplace of ,jeremiah4 ,never large1 it still retains its diminutive proportions4 ,standing on a low1 broad ridge1 surrounded by green fields1 twenty huts occupy the site of this once priestly city4 ,of the ancient town all that now remains are portions of an old wall1 a spacious cistern1 and fragments of marble columns4 ,it was hither ,solomon banished ,abiathar for attempting to raise ,adonijah to the throne of his father ,david4#dea ,but ,anathoth is chiefly significant as the native city of the greatest of prophets1 whose courage was equal to his danger1 whose fortitude never forsook him1 and whose zeal for ,god was only excelled by the terribleness of his persecutions4 ,in the darkest hour of his country's history1 ,jeremiah was called to lament the desolations of ,zion1 to reprove kings1 and to die for the truth4 ,offended at the severity of his denunciations1 his townsmen drove him from the place of his birth1 and1 flying to ,jerusalem for refuge1 his fidelity to ,god1 his unblanched courage in reproving royal crimes1 and his horrid pictures of coming ruin1 evoked the angry passions of those whom he would have reformed1 and the plaintive bard of ,israel was added to the long but honored list of martyrs4 ,turning to the northwest1 the tower of ,geba of ,benjamin was visible1#deb and three miles beyond were the rocks of ,michmash1 where ,jonathan surprised and defeated the ,philistines1 and where are still to be seen the famous rocks ,bozez and ,seneh4#dec ,after glancing at other memorable places1 which1 together with those mentioned1 we had previously visited1 we descended from the summit of the hill1 and at its base entered a noble field of lentiles or pottage1 such as ,esau sold his birthright for4#ded ,when young it resembles a pea-vine4 ,it grows to the height of eight inches1 and when harvested it is pulled like flax4 ,it is cooked like beans1 with the exception that the water is allowed to evaporate1 when the softened grain is stewed with butter and onions1 making a delicious dish1 and one worth a birthright to a famishing hunter4 ,the sun was setting1 and the shadow of the mountains darkened the plains when we resumed our journey4 ,the lateness of the hour required dispatch1 and ,beeroth1 the place where we were to spend the night1 was six miles to the north4 ,unfortunately we were without a guide1 and our path was simply a camel track1 devious1 stony1 and uncertain4 ,though we knew the general direction of ,beeroth1 yet the number of small villages in the vicinity1 the growing darkness1 and the uncertainty of the road1 baffled all effort to find the place4 ,overtaking an ,arab belonging to ,beit ,unth1 he agreed for a present to serve us as guide4 ,not suspecting deception1 we followed him nearly to his own town1 which he assured us was the desired place4 ,but knowing from our maps that ,beeroth was to the right of the path1 and ,beit ,unth to the left1 we refused to follow him farther4 ,truth is an unknown virtue in the ,arab character1 and he who confides in it leans upon a broken reed4 ,for the paltry sum which a night's lodging would bring1 this man was leading us astray4 ,a solitary light shone from a hut in ,beeroth1 when1 turning eastward1 we traversed plowed fields1 leaped ditches1 crossed ravines1 and rued the day we had presumed to travel without a guide4 ,reaching a fountain1 the waters of which sparkled in the starlight1 we regained the path4 ,having a letter of introduction from ,dr4 ,sandreczki1 of ,jerusalem1 to one ,ysef ,shang1 a ,christian ,arab1 and the scribe of the town1 we inquired for him2 but1 to add to our mishaps1 ,ysef was not at home4 ,there we were1 homeless1 foodless1 friendless1 and in the dark4 ,an old ,arab dame1 however 7heaven pity her homeliness and reward her kindness671 knew where ,ysef was1 and called him to our aid4 ,ysef ,shang was a noble specimen of the ,arab race4 ,he was of medium height1 well built1 of full habit1 with towering brow1 large black eyes1 handsome nose1 a large1 joyous mouth1 and a heavy1 flowing beard1 which was white as snow1 and beautifully contrasted the deep olive hue of his manly face4 ,his countenance was at once benignant and intelligent4 ,besides1 ,ysef was a clean ,araba rarity worth a pilgrimage to see4 ,his red boots1 light-colored petticoat-trowsers1 embroidered jacket1 broad girdle1 flowing robes of yellow ,broussa silk1 and a bright checkered turban1 were neat enough for a picture4 ,in his silken girdle he wore a brass inkhorn1 a foot in length1 with a small square bulb of the same material on the side near the end1 rendered perfectly tight by a thin plate of the same metal1 and containing in the long part a case for the reed pens1 which are secured by a brass cap4 ,his appearance recalled ,ezekiel's description of the man clothed with linen1 with a writer's inkhorn by his side4#dee ,in the ,east there is a class of men1 called scribes1 who write for the common people4 ,they sit at the corners of the streets1 and persons wishing a letter written dictate the matter1 while the scribe performs the penmanship4 ,deeming it an inelegance to write upon a table1 the paper is placed upon the left hand1 and the writer forms the graceful characters of the ,arabic language1 writing from right to left4 ,ysef was such a scribe1 and had risen to eminence in his profession4 ,having read our letter with an air of great consideration1 he saluted us in the most gracious manner1 and invited us to his abode4 ,following him through a narrow lane to the gate of his court1 we dismounted1 and1 after removing saddles and saddle-bags1 led our horses through a covered stone passage-way to the entrance of his dwelling4 ,ysef's superb dress and elegant bearing had prepared us to expect an entertainment not unlike the festive scenes so wondrously described in the ,arabian ,nights4 ,but never were two things more unlike1 and never was the outside of the plates cleaner nor the inside filthier4 ,his house was a wretched stone hut1 entered by a low doorway4 ,the interior consisted of a single room1 divided into two apartments by a raised platform a foot high4 ,the platform served the triple purpose of kitchen1 chamber1 and parlor1 the walls and ceiling were dingy with smoke and dirt1 and a few old mats spread upon the floor were the only furniture of his home4 ,at the foot of the platform1 beneath the same roof1 was his stable1 and in one corner stood ,ysef's favorite ass4 8,come in1 come in1 gentlemen10 cried our host1 8and bring your horses with you2 there is plenty of room1 and you are welcome40 ,leading my horse1 ,i entered2 but the ass brayed so furiously1 and kicked with such rapidity and violence1 that ,i was compelled to retreat4 ,despite my protest1 ,ysef refused to turn his ass into the cold1 and calmly suggested that ,i could take my horse on the platform with me4 ,refusing to turn ,arab1 ,i declined1 and turned to procure quarters elsewhere4 ,the power of money upon an ,arab's soul is above calculation4 ,fearing that he might lose the customary present in return for his hospitality1 ,ysef led his ass forth1 braying and kicking as it went4 ,our host had previously sent the female members of his family away1 lest the eye of a stranger should fall upon them1 and left us the sole occupants of his dwelling4 ,spreading our blankets upon the platform1 we commenced our frugal repast1 but the fleas of ,beeroth came upon us in such numbers as to force another retreat4 ,we were again houseless4 ,the sky was clear and the stars shone softly upon us1 and we determined to sleep beneath the pure starlit heavens4 ,ysef1 however1 succeeded in procuring for our use the council-room of the town1 which was a large square apartment1 with heavy arched ceiling1 fireplace1 and niche4 ,the walls were black with the smoke of years1 and the atmosphere stale and noisome4 ,here we spread our mats1 and1 with a saddle for a pillow1 spent the night4 ,the ground floor of the building was occupied by a family1 who1 for a few piastres1 sheltered my horse4 ,it was here ,i had an illustration of the story of ,bethlehem4 ,the same room served as a dwelling and a stable1 divided by a platform1 on which an ,arab woman was kneading bread and a lad was tending an infant child4 ,the occupants' ass having been turned out1 ,i led my horse in4 ,in one corner of the stable was a large stone manger1 excavated in the living rock4 ,such1 probably1 was the internal arrangement of the inn at ,bethlehem2 and as the platform was occupied by other guests1 ,joseph and ,mary lodged in the stable1 and cradled the infant ,savior in the stone manger4 ,beeroth is situated on a rocky ridge1 and contains a population of #hjj ,moslems and thirty ,christians4 ,it is mentioned in connection with the league formed between the embassadors of ,gibeon and ,joshua1 but aside from this it has no scriptural significance4 ,during the reign of the ,latin kings it rose to importance1 and the remaining ruins attest the antiquity of the site and the former elegance of the place4 ,in the northwest part of the village is the old ,gothic church1 built by the ,knights ,templars centuries ago4 ,it is a beautiful ruin1 and reminds one of the ruined abbeys of ,southern ,scotland4 ,the walls1 the eastern apse1 and the sacristy are standing1 and inclose an area #ajj feet long and sixty-three wide4 ,the material is limestone well dressed1 and the interior may have consisted of a nave1 two lateral aisles1 and three recesses in the eastern end4 ,the finish of the architecture is exquisite4 ,the apses are crowned with beautiful domed roofs1 and the partition walls are ornamented with pilasters1 the capitals of which are well preserved4 ,the side walls are divided into sections by pilasters1 and are decorated with a rich cornice4 ,but it is now a green ruin4 ,the grass grows where1 of old1 knights knelt in prayer1 and where robed priests chanted their ,ave ,marias4 ,on leaving the church ,i witnessed a beautiful illustration of our ,lord's parable of the 8good shepherd40 ,three shepherds were leading their flocks to pasture1 and1 though near each other1 there was neither confusion nor intermingling4 ,such is the richness of the native language in adjectives1 that a shepherd gives to each member of his flock a name descriptive of some characteristic1 which is as familiar to the sheep as to himself4 ,a lamb had lingered behind picking the fresh grass of spring1 and1 though other voices were sounding at the time1 the truant lamb heard its shepherd's voice and ran to the fold4 8,the sheep hear his voice1 and he calleth his own sheep by name40#def ,three miles to the north is ancient ,bethel4 ,as we advanced the country grew in richness and beauty1 reminding us that we were approaching the favored inheritance of ,ephraim4 ,passing a small fountain gushing from the foot of a cliff1 in less than half an hour we knelt in prayer where1 twenty-five centuries ago1 ,jacob slept to dream of angels4 ,the silence of desolation now reigns where once was heard the voice of gladness4 ,quietly a few maidens came to the fountain1 as in the days of the patriarchs1 whose homes stand amid the dbris of former glory4 ,the ancient city occupied a low ridge between two small valleys1 which converge on the southeast and run into ,wady ,suweint1 the great thoroughfare to ,ai and ,jericho4 ,portions of foundations1 fragments of walls1 and heaps of hewn stone cover an area of four acres4 ,on the summit of the hill are the remains of a square tower1 and to the south of it are the walls of a ,greek church4 ,beyond the town1 to the east1 is the mountain on which ,abraham pitched his tent and built an altar unto the ,lord1 having ,bethel on the west and ,ai on the east2#deg and there1 three years later1 he and his nephew stood1 choosing different portions of the land for their respective flocks4#deh ,from the summit of that ridge1 the whole plain of the ,jordan1 which so charmed the eyes of ,lot1 is seen2 and the possessions of six of the tribes lay before the vision of ,abraham1 to whom the ,lord on that occasion repeated the promise to give the whole land to his servant4 ,a few feet from the hill1 located in the western valley1 is the great ,fountain of ,bethel4 ,it is inclosed with an oblong basin #cad feet long and #bag wide1 which is constructed of large stones1 many of which are yet in situ4 ,the southern wall is still entire1 but1 owing to long disuse1 the others are nearly gone4 ,grass now covers the bottom of the reservoir1 and beautiful flowers bloom around the crystal spring4 ,it was probably in this lovely valley that ,jacob had his wondrous vision4 ,he had come from ,beersheba1 a distance of seventy miles4 ,this long journey1 however1 is not in harmony with the common belief that the dream occurred on the first night after leaving his father's house4 ,urged on by the dread of an injured brother1 he slept the first night beside the graves of his ancestors at ,hebron1 thirty-six miles from the patriarchal groves of ,beersheba2 rising early and passing through the vineyards of ,eshcol1 he rested at noon the next day at ,bethlehem1 seventeen miles from ,hebron1 and near the spot where1 twenty years later1 he buried his beautiful ,rachel2 six miles beyond he passed ,jerusalem on the right1 the future capital of his mighty posterity2 and late in the evening of the second day1 the stranger and weary traveler reached ,bethel1 eleven miles farther northward4 ,the gates of the city were closed1 and1 like the pilgrim ,arab of to-day1 he selected a stone for his pillow1 and1 wrapping his capote or cloak about him1 lay down to peaceful slumber4 ,in a land where customs never change1 such beds and pillows are not uncommon now1 and thus are explained not only the story of the fugitive1 but also our ,lord's command to the sick of the palsy1 8,arise1 take up thy bed1 and walk40#dei ,the bed was simply a coarse thick cloak of camel's hair4 ,in this retired vale1 and beside this same fountain1 ,jacob dreamed of the ,invisible1 and awoke exclaiming1 8,how dreadful is this place6 ,this is none other but the house of ,god1 and this is the gate of heaven40 ,here the shining ones came down1 and here ,jehovah calmed the troubled spirit of the sleeper by the promise of protection4 ,cheered by the gracious promises of the ,almighty1 ,jacob awoke1 and1 as a memorial monument1 set up the stone that had served as a pillow1 and anointed it with oil to seal the covenant he had made4 ,whether he was the first to conceive of building a church to ,god1 and whether that is the sense of the text1 ,bethel became a sanctuary for his descendants4#dfj ,when he returned after an absence of twenty years1 here the faithful ,deborah died1 and he buried her under an oak1 to which he gave the name of ,allon ,bachuth8the oak of weeping40#dfa ,destined to live in history in all coming time1 ,bethel became the scene of many great and thrilling events4 ,it was the place where ,samuel held his circuit court1 in connection with ,mizpah and ,gilgal4#dfb ,subsequently to the death of ,solomon1 and the rending in twain of his vast empire1 ,bethel became the imperial rival of ,jerusalem1 and was polluted with an idol temple1 in which ,jeroboam placed a golden calf4 ,it was against this abomination the prophet cried3 8,o altar1 altar1 thus saith the ,lord1 ,behold1 a child shall be born unto the house of ,david1 ,josiah by name2 and upon thee shall he offer the priests of the high places that burn incense upon thee1 and men's bones shall be burnt upon thee40#dfc ,offended at the boldness of the seer1 the king sought to smite him1 but in the attempt his arm was smitten with paralysis4#dfd ,on this slope lived the old prophet who over-persuaded the ,lord's servant to enter his house1 contrary to the divine injunction1 and by the wayside is the tomb in which both were interred4#dfe ,chosen for its central location1 years later ,bethel became a school for the prophets1 and hither ,elijah came on the day of his translation4#dff ,and three centuries and a half after the utterance of the prediction1 ,josiah destroyed the temple and altar of ,jeroboam1 but spared the tomb of the ,judan seer4#dfe ,to-day ,bethel is a witness against herself4 ,her hills and valleys are barren1 and her ruins are the evidences of her decay4 ,god has forsaken her2 his will is done2 his word is fulfilled4 8,seek not ,bethel1 nor enter into ,gilgal2 for ,gilgal shall surely go into captivity1 and ,bethel shall come to naught40#dff ,the roll of twenty-five centuries has confirmed the prophetic announcement1 and time and ruins are the credentials of the prophet4 ,in vain we searched for the memorials of the past4 ,neither ,abraham's altar1 nor ,jacob's pillar1 nor ,deborah's oak1 nor ,jeroboam's temple1 nor the school of the prophets1 could be found4 ,these all have perished1 and ,bethel mourns her departed glory4 ,the heavens are sealed2 the ladder is withdrawn2 the angels descend no more2 and faith1 hope1 and charity are the only remaining steps by which to reach the heavenly world4 ,from the brow of a western hill1 and through the dim distance of twelve miles1 ,i saw the dome of ,omar's ,mosque1 the lofty minaret of the ,haram1 and the ,tower of ,hippicus4 ,with this last and unexpected view of ,jerusalem we resumed our tour to the north4 ,for a mile the country was broken1 but beyond were olive-groves and fig-orchards1 extending for miles on either hand4 ,the path soon descended a steep1 narrow1 and rough torrent-bed1 and1 after an hour's ride1 it entered the charming valley of ,el-,jb4 ,unsurpassed for the beauty and romantic character of its scenery1 it abruptly contracts into a wild gorge1 and1 two miles from its mouth1 it contains a gem of a fountain1 called ',ain el-,haramyeh1 or 8,the ,robbers' ,fountain40 ,here the glen is as lovely as it is wild1 and as bloody in its history as it is dangerous to the unwary traveler4 ,the mountains rise in solemn grandeur on the right and left1 shutting out the world1 and casting a melancholy shade on the scene below4 ,high up on a jutting cliff is an old castle1 gray with age1 and covered with moss and creeping vines4 ,through the bottom of the glen a fierce winter torrent has cut a deep and narrow channel1 leaving a broad level space on either side4 ,on the right runs the road to ,shiloh2 on the left is a small plateau1 level and green1 and extending inward to the mountain's base4 ,down the sides of the western cliff the water trickles1 through trails of fern and over beds of velvet moss1 into an artificial basin4 ,the plateau is covered with grass1 and beneath it is a large reservoir1 now a garden4 ,charmed with the spot1 desire inclined us to linger1 but prudence warned us to depart4 ,the waters of ,el-,haramyeh have washed the bloodstained hands of many a highwayman1 and the native of to-day hurries on conscious of danger nigh4 ,a band of robbers were encamped upon the lawn when we reached the fountain4 ,some were whiffing their narghilehs2 others were testing their strength in gymnastic sports1 while around the captain of the band two girls were dancing to the music of timbrel and castanets4 ,they returned our salutations1 and1 after drinking of the cool1 sweet water1 and plucking a few ferns as mementoes1 we recrossed the channel1 and began to ascend toward ,shiloh4 ,as we advanced the scenery assumed higher forms of sublimity4 ,the mountains approached each other1 and rose to the clouds2 but when1 in turn1 the hills receded and the valleys opened1 the former were terraced and clad with vineyards1 and the latter planted with wheat and corn4 ,attired in gay costumes1 peasant-girls were at work on the terraces1 singing merrily2 shepherds1 with long guns thrown across their shoulders1 were winding with their flocks around the loftier cliffs2 while far away to the northwest1 following the devious mountain-paths1 were trains of camels and asses1 whose tinkling bells awakened the echoes of the everlasting hills4 ,more than once we dismounted to gather the tempting wild-flowers1 and press the pretty anemones1 poppies1 amaranths1 and white-thorn roses4 ,reaching the head of the valley1 we left ,sinjil on the west to visit ancient ,shiloh4 ,before us lay a broad fertile plain1 running toward the ,jordan1 and in the midst of which stands the ,arab town of ,turmus ',aya4 ,to the north of the village the path leads up a gentle acclivity1 and then1 descending into a narrow valley1 it gradually ascends through cultivated fields to the hill on which the renowned city of ,samuel stood4 ,at the southern base of the hill stands an old square tower1 originally a mosque1 and over it a large oak spreads its ample branches4 ,the surrounding hills are round and naked1 the valleys narrow and stony1 and the landscape featureless and forbidding4 ,covering a low ridge1 projecting from the central chain of mountains1 are the scattered ruins of ,shiloh4 ,consisting of heaps of hewn stone1 with now and then a broken column1 the remains are embedded in rank weeds and tall grass1 and destitute of the ordinary attractions of a fallen city4 ,near them is an old ruined church1 which1 in the age of the ,crusaders1 served as a fortress4 ,the walls1 four feet thick1 are supported by buttresses4 ,over the entrance is a sculptured amphora1 between two wreaths1 and within the inclosure are a few fallen ,corinthian columns4 ,half a mile to the east1 in a wild glen1 is the famous fountain of ,shiloh1 issuing from the rocks1 and flowing into a deep reservoir1 where shepherds water their flocks4 ,from the days of ,jerome to the year #ahch the site of ,shiloh remained unknown1 when the analogy between the ancient and modern names1 together with a single verse in the ,book of ,judges1 enabled a distinguished ,american traveler#dfg to determine its long-lost site4 ,called by the ,arabs ,seiln1 he judged it the ,arabic rendering of the more euphonious name of ,shiloh1 and1 guided by the minute and accurate description of the location by the elders of ,israel1 he succeeded in identifying the place4 ,nothing can be more artless and correct than that remarkable passage1 8,behold1 there is a feast of the ,lord in ,shiloh yearly1 in a place which is on the north side of ,bethel1 on the east side of the highway that goeth up from ,bethel to ,shechem1 and on the south of ,lebonah40#dfh ,though destitute of those monuments which have given historic significance to its name1 the pleasures of a visit to this celebrated city are to be derived from the recollections of the past rather than from the grandeur of its antiquities4 ,memorable as the place where the ,tabernacle was first permanently set up in ,canaan1 and where the ,ark remained from the days of ,joshua till near the close of ,eli's life1 it was here the ,israelites assembled to divide the land into tribal possessions according to lot4#dfi ,to fulfill a solemn vow1 hither the pious ,hannah brought her infant ,samuel from ,ramah to serve in the ,tabernacle4#dgj ,as the custodians of the ,ark1 from here ,hophni and ,phinehas went forth to the fatal battle of ,ebenezer1 and here by the wayside the venerable ,eli expired when he heard of the capture of that ,ark and the death of his sons4#dga ,here the son of a mother1 overwhelmed with grief at such calamities1 received the name of ,i-chabod1 8,the glory is departed from ,israel40#dga ,in a glen to the east of the town was held that feast at which the daughters of ,shiloh were dancing when the #bjj ,benjamites rose suddenly from the encircling vineyards1 and1 rushing on the unsuspecting damsels1 captured each man a bride1 whom he bore in triumph to his home4#dgb ,disguised like a peasant1 hither came the wife of ,jeroboam from ,tirzah to inquire of the ,prophet ,ahijah concerning the life of her son4#dgc ,having become the seat of impiety1 the city fell under the curse of the ,almighty1 and1 in the words of ,jeremiah1 it was doomed to its present shapeless and desolate condition3 8,go ye now unto my place which was in ,shiloh1 where ,i set my name at first1 and see what ,i did to it for the wickedness of my people ,israel40#dgd ,it was amid the recollection of such events that the robbers of ,shiloh made their appearance and commenced an unprovoked assault upon our party4 ,we had been forewarned of the turbulent character of the people1 and of the danger a visit involved4 ,at ,sinjil we had discussed the prudence of a detour to this place1 and1 though it was a bold and hazardous step1 as the sequel proved1 yet we resolved to advance4 ,we were in search of the most important knowledge1 and1 trusting to a gracious ,providence1 we felt justified in making the attempt4 ,unfortunately1 our servant at the time was at ,nablous1 awaiting our arrival there1 and1 being without escort or guide1 we were compelled to employ a peasant whom we had chanced to meet in a neighboring field4 ,he was a simple1 inoffensive1 unarmed man1 and was of no advantage to us except to guide us to the site of ,seiln4 ,having seen us from their mountain fastnesses1 the robbers rapidly congregated around the old stone tower1 where1 at the moment1 we were reading the inspired story of the place1 and recording those reflections suggested by the hour4 ,such another band of villainous-looking men ,nature has scarcely ever suffered to dwell upon the earth4 ,some were without a nose1 others without an eye1 while all bore scars of previous fights1 and wore a vicious countenance which promised us no good4 ,each ruffian was armed with a long gun and a missile not unlike an ,indian tomahawk4 ,one1 more reckless than the rest1 began the fray by plundering my saddle-bags2 but1 seeing with what determination ,i drew my revolver1 he immediately desisted4 ,wishing1 if possible1 to avoid another collision1 we attempted to cross a corn-field to the hill on which ,shiloh's ruins lay scattered1 but they seized us and drove us back4 ,knowing that every moment's delay diminished our chances of escape1 we concluded to resume our journeypeaceably if possible1 but forcibly if we must4 ,but we had no sooner mounted our horses than the brigands seized the bridles and demanded our money4 ,another exhibition of our well-conditioned revolverswhich by them is a dreaded weaponagain saved us from their hands1 and1 putting spurs to our horses1 we descended a narrow valley on the south of ,shiloh1 keeping an eye upon the robbers1 who were after us at full speed4 ,but the bottom of the valley soon became so rough that it was impossible to proceed faster than a walk4 ,having overtaken us1 they still clamored for money1 and evinced their purpose to renew the attack4 ,at that moment my horse stumbled1 throwing me on his head2 but1 springing back into the saddle1 and jerking the reins with all the strength at my command1 ,i saved him from going down4 ,my haversack1 however1 had fallen off1 and one of the ruffians1 having picked it up1 refused to return it without a reward4 ,fortunately1 the small amount ,i gave him satisfied him1 and to that man ,i owe my life4 ,among the plants ,i had gathered at ,shiloh was one of curious structure1 which ,i desired to preserve4 ,its large bright green leaves were so folded as to resemble an embossed star1 but it was a deadly poison4 ,having dropped it1 ,i called to the ,arab to pluck another1 but he refused1 assuring me in ,arabic that it was poisonous4 ,we now dismissed the peasant previously employed1 giving him the promised sum4 ,this proved our misfortune1 as the robbers1 becoming exasperated at the favor shown their neighbor1 came upon us with renewed fierceness in a solitary mountain pass4 ,they had the advantage in numbers1 and a base indifference to human life4 ,sixteen against four gave us but little hope of successful resistance2 but1 unwilling to yield even against such odds1 we determined to resist to the last4 ,rushing upon us with the utmost fury1 they seized our bridles1 and1 raising their tomahawks over our heads1 demanded our money or our lives4 ,refusing to give the former1 we resolved to protect the latter4 ,having never seen the countenance of a bandit in the act of violence1 ,i shall never forget the expression of the ruffian who assailed me4 ,his face was livid with rage1 and his solitary eye blazed with murderous intent as he grasped the bridle firmly with one hand and with the other raised the weapon of death over me4 ,undaunted either by his rage or threats1 ,i held a parley with him for several minutes1 he demanding1 and ,i1 in turn1 refusing4 ,trying the power of religious fear1 ,i pointed him to heaven1 and repeated the sacred name of 8,allah10 but he smiled like a demon1 and fiercely replied1 8,give me your money60 ,our firmness would have saved us from violence had not a member of our party1 in an unguarded moment1 struck one of the brigands with a riding-whip1 which precipitated the assault1 and it was now baksheesh or death4 ,aware that by this act we had become the aggressors1 we concluded to give each a few piastres4 ,happily for myself1 ,i had not a piastre in change1 but1 borrowing half a one 7two cents7 from a companion1 ,i gave it to the villain1 whose fury had been cooled by firm looks1 strong words1 a ,damascus blade1 and a good revolver4 ,grouping together1 they counted the spoils1 but1 finding the booty less than they had expected1 they attempted another pursuit1 but we had eluded their grasp4 ,dashing down the glen1 we reached in safety the small village of ,lubbnthe ,lebonah of the ,judges1#dge grateful to divine ,providence that1 through ,arab cowardice and ,christian grace1 no blood had been shed4 ,the day was now far spent4 ,three hours of hard riding were before us1 and it was necessary to reach ,nablous before sundown or the gates would be shut4 ,riding through ancient towns1 over plantations of figs1 and amid the most enchanting scenery1 we passed1 in less than half an hour1 the hamlet of ,swieh1 perched on a lofty ridge on the left1 and a short distance beyond we came to an old castle on the right1 shaded by a noble oak1 whose vast dimensions and majestic form recalled the famous oaks of ,mamre4 ,descending into a deep valley running at right angles with the great northern route1 on the north was ,kubaln1 and on the south ,yetna1 high up in the eternal hills1 amid gardens of figs and olives1 as if suspended in the air4 ,such a view is worth a pilgrimage to see4 ,toiling up the opposite side of the valley1 in half an hour we gained the summit1 and the beauties of ,ephraim lay like a landscape of glory before us4 ,interjections were faint symbols of the joyous emotions awakened by the scene4 ,the white limestone rocks and verdureless mountains of the south had given place to the vine-clad hills of the north1 crowned with the benediction of the dying patriarch1 8,god make thee as ,ephraim40#dgf ,at our feet lay the great plain of ,el-,mukhnah1 unbroken by fence or tower1 dotted with groves1 and rich in fields of wheat and corn4 ,spreading out more than a mile and a half in breadth1 and extending more than seven miles north and south1 it is bounded on the east by a range of low1 dark hills1 and from its western border rise ,gerizim and ,ebal1 the former crowned with a small white chapel reflecting the setting sun4 ,far away to the northeast1 rising like a column of alabaster against the calm blue sky of ,damascus1 was ,mount ,hermon1 the symbol of a purer world4 ,rapidly descending into the plain below and turning northward1 we soon passed the large town of ,hawra1 built on the mountain slope1 and inhabited by a turbulent community4 ,just beyond the village the road branches2 the path to the left1 after winding round the base of ,gerizim and crossing a mountain spur1 enters the ,vale of ,shechem near ,nablous2 the other path1 continuing up the plain1 leads to the city by way of ,jacob's ,well4 ,choosing the latter1 we found it the best road in ,palestine4 ,after following the base of the mountain for a while1 the path diverges to the centre of the plain and passes through the most enchanting scenery4 ,like a thing of beauty1 the memory of that evening's ride still lingers in my mind4 ,the deepening shadows of ,gerizim had thrown their lengthened forms over the plains2 shepherds were returning with their flocks2 peasants were plodding homeward their weary way2 and in the dim twilight of departing day1 and amid that solemn silence which awakens profound reflections1 we reached the patriarchal well4 ,intending to visit this interesting spot again1 we ascended the ,vale of ,nablous and entered the ancient city of ,shechem just as the old gate-keeper was turning the ponderous key4 ,gladly dismounting after the exploits of such a day1 we led our jaded horses over the flag-paved streets of the city1 exciting the curiosity of an idle crowd of ,shechemites1 and affording them fresh materials for village gossip4 ,it was nine o'clock when we found our host1 who was the ,christian school-teacher of the ,protestant ,mission4 ,receiving us with great politeness1 he led us up a long flight of stone steps into a large clean room1 where1 after a simple repast1 we spread our mats and blankets for the night4 ,illustration3 ,,nablous4 ,ranking with ,damascus1 ,hebron1 and ,jerusalem in the antiquity of its origin and the importance of its history1 ,shechem1 or the modern town of ,nablous1 is among the oldest cities in ,palestine4 ,coming from ,chaldea1 ,abraham pitched his tent on the fertile plains of ,mukhnah1 8in the place of ,sichem1 in the plain of ,moreh40#dgg ,nearly two centuries later his grandson ,jacob came from ,mesopotamia to 8,shalem1 a city of ,shechem1 and pitched his tent before the city1 and bought a parcel of a field1 at the hand of the children of ,hamor1 for one hundred pieces of money1 and erected there an altar1 and called it ,el-,elohe-,israel40#dgh ,here ,simeon and ,levi plotted the murder of the whole male population of the town to avenge their dishonored sister1 and1 exposed by this act of indiscretion to the insults and attacks of the adjacent villagers1 ,jacob was compelled to remove to ,hebron4#dgi ,retaining possession of these pasture-fields1 hither he sent ,joseph to search for his brethren1 whom 8a certain man found wandering in a field10 and directed him to ,dothan4#dhj ,four hundred years afterward1 having achieved the conquest of ,ai1 ,joshua led his triumphant hosts over the ,jordan into this vale2 upon ,ebal he reared the first ,jewish altar in ,samaria2 and from this and its companion mountain caused to be read the blessings and cursings of the ,law4#dha ,two and a half centuries later1 ,abimelech seized this city and was proclaimed king1 which gave rise to the beautiful parable of ,jotham4#dhb ,hither came ,rehoboam to be crowned king of ,israel2 and in the same year here occurred the coronation of ,jeroboam1 under whom the twelve tribes revolted1 and ,shechem became the royal city of the new monarchy4#dhc ,during the long captivity of the ,jews in ,assyria1 ,nablous rose to be the chief city of the ,samaritans1 who were destined to act such a conspicuous part in sacred history4 ,being instructed in the ,jewish religion1 they reared upon the summit of ,mount ,gerizim a rival temple to that in ,jerusalem1 and became the religious and political enemies of the ,jews4 ,four hundred and fifty years after the erection of this temple1 the ,vale of ,shechem was hallowed by the presence and teachings of ,jesus and his twelve apostles4 ,in the year #hi ,a4,d4 it was the birthplace of ,justin1 the philosopher and martyr1 one of the earliest and most learned of the ,christian fathers4 ,from the days of the ,roman conquest to the present time it has shared the varied fortunes of the ,crescent and the ,cross1 and to-day is subject to the sceptre of the ,false ,prophet4 ,nablous is situated in one of the most delightful vales in ,palestine4 ,a garden-like valley opens from the ,plain of ,mukhnah and runs nearly east and west1 with ,ebal on the north and ,gerizim on the south4 ,standing less than two miles up the vale1 the city covers the roots of ,gerizim1 extending toward the opposite mountain4 ,of its #hjjj inhabitants1 #ej are ,jews1 #aej ,samaritans1 #ejj ,christians1 and over #gjjj ,moslems4 ,its narrow streets1 thronged with a busy multitudeits stone dwellings1 crowned with small domesits mosques1 with their graceful minaretsand its numerous bazars1 filled with fruit and other commodities1 remind the traveler of ,jerusalem2 but the streets are less light and airy than those of the ,holy ,city1 as the buildings1 projecting over them1 supported by arches1 impart to them a tunnel-like appearance4 ,except a spacious ,saracenic doorway1 now the portal of a mosque1 a marble sarcophagus1 now a water-trough1 and a few prostrate columns of granite1 limestone1 and marble1 there are no antiquities worthy of a moment's attention4 ,the modern ,shechemites are the chief cotton-growers1 oil-makers1 and soap manufacturers of ,palestine4 ,the valleys and hill-sides are covered with olive-trees1 from the berries of which is extracted the precious oil4 ,in the adjacent fields cotton is raised in large quantities for home consumption and exportation4 ,regarded as the best quality grown in the dominions of the ,turkish empire1 thousands of bales are yearly exported to ,europe4 ,the present citizens of the town afford another illustration that the character of a people1 no less than their names and social customs1 are handed down from generation to generation4 ,they are infamous for their turbulent and fanatical reputation in the past1 and more street-fights occur in ,nablous than in any other ,syrian city4 ,the rebellious spirit that rose three thousand years ago against the government of ,rehoboam is still dominant1 and the ,shechemites are among the most troublesome of the sultan's subjects1 obeying or rebelling as interest dictates or passion inclines4 ,it required the powerful and cruel arm of ,ibrahim ,pasha to crush them1 though not without a long and bloody struggle4 ,jews1 ,samaritans1 and ,christians live among those turbulent children of the ,prophet only by sufferance1 and the crimes of theft and murder perpetrated on them are seldom punished by the weak and timorous ,turkish officials4 ,the ,jews have a small synagogue within the walls1 the picture of poverty and wretchedness4 ,of the #ejj ,christians1 most are of the ,greek ,church1 and worship in an edifice at once old and filthy4 ,the ,protestant ,christian ,mission is under the protection of the ,english and ,russian governments1 and is accomplishing much good in the education of the young4 ,the mission school1 under the care of our host1 was held in a room adjoining the one we occupied4 ,accepting his invitation1 we spent an hour with his pupils3 there were present from forty to fifty boys1 from three to fifteen years of age4 ,attired in ,syrian costume1 they were clean and pretty in their appearance1 and modest and obedient in their behavior4 ,sitting on their heels1 they were engaged in writing with a reed not unlike1 in form and size1 our common pencils4 ,calling up one by one1 from the least to the greatest1 the master exhibited specimens of penmanship which1 as far as ,i was capable of judging of the graceful ,arabic characters1 were creditable to the young penmen4 ,as they seemed anxious to know about the schools and children of ,america1 ,i made them a brief speech1 which was interpreted by our polite host4 ,from their wealth1 social position1 and historic importance1 the ,samaritans are by far the most interesting religious body in ,nablous4 ,the ,bible account of their origin and history invests them with a peculiar charm1 and imparts to the seat of their ancient empire an interest seldom equaled in the stories of romance4 ,hoping to effectually subdue ,palestine to their powerful sway and restore it to the rites of idol worship1 the ,assyrian conqueror led the ,jews of ,samaria into captivity1 and repeopled their depopulated cities with colonists from the distant ,east4 ,during the long period that intervened between the captivity and the colonization1 the bears1 panthers1 wolves1 and jackals from the ,heights of ,hermon and the jungles of the ,jordan had so far penetrated into the heart of the country1 and had multiplied to such a degree1 as to endanger the lives of the colonists4 ,being polytheists themselves1 they ascribed the evil to the local divinities1 whose worship they knew not how to perform4 ,complaining to their king1 he sent them a ,jewish priest1 who taught them the name and worship of ,jehovah4 ,with a curtness that savors of irony1 the inspired historian adds1 8,they feared the ,lord and served their own gods40#dhd ,national pride1 and contempt for their origin and mixed religion1 led the ,jews1 in after years1 to despise the colonists1 and being thus scorned by those from whom they had reason to look for truth and righteousness1 the ,samaritans in turn became exclusive4 ,multiplying in numbers and increasing in wealth1 in process of time they erected a temple on the summit of ,gerizim4 ,to them this mount became their ,moriah1 and in the lapse of ages an invented tradition designated it as the scene of the offering of ,isaac4 ,by a better title it shared the solemnity and significance of ,mount ,sinai1 as from its slopes ,joshua proclaimed the ,law2 and the vale beneath became a second ,rhah1 since the hosts of ,israel gathered there to hear the blessings and cursings of the divine commandments4 ,with honest pride they contemplated their surrounding plains as the camping-ground of the patriarchs prior to their pilgrimage to the south1 and as the scene of the coronation of the son of ,solomon4 ,turning their attention to commerce1 they became merchants in ,egypt1 and1 traveling westward1 in the fifth century they had a synagogue in ,rome4 ,continuing to live under the varied fortunes and vicissitudes of empire1 the existence of this present remnant is one of the most remarkable instances of the tenacity of national life in the annals of the world4 ,numbering #acj soulsthe sum of all that remain of a once proud and mighty kingdomthey cling to their ancient seat of empire with undying fondness4 ,adhering to the ,jewish law1 which forbids marriage with foreigners1 and numbering more males than females1 not less than twenty men are doomed to involuntary celibacy4 ,industrious and thrifty1 they dwell in their own houses1 pursuing their vocations and maintaining their community with comparative ease4 ,in their physique and apparel1 in their intelligence and morals1 in their social happiness and general behavior1 they are the superior class among the citizens of ,nablous4 ,possessing a solitary synagogue in the western part of the town1 they observe their religious rites with much regularity4 ,they have a school1 under the direction of a shrewd1 intelligent ,samaritan4 ,their high-priest is a venerable man1 who is assisted in the duties of his sacred office by two sons1 the elder of whom will succeed his father to the office and rank he now holds4 ,besides a collection of hymns1 they have in their possession the ,book of ,joshua in manuscript1 with commentaries on the ,law1 and a copy of the ,pentateuch in the original character4 ,they claim for the latter that it is #ccjj years old1 and was written by 8,abishua1 the son of ,phinehas1 the son of ,eleazar1 the son of ,aaron40 ,regarded as a treasure of incalculable value1 it is preserved in a metallic case1 and deposited in their synagogue under the care of the high-priest4 ,the tattered1 patched1 and soiled parchment forms an immense scroll1 the ends of which are attached to two rollers4 ,such is their superstitious reverence for this antique manuscript1 that they deem it a pardonable offense to exhibit a duplicate as the veritable one1 and many a traveler has left with the impression of having seen the five books of ,moses written by the son of ,phinehas4 ,though destitute of a temple1 they ascend their sacred mount three times a year1 and celebrate with much display the ,feast of the ,passover1 the ,day of ,pentecost1 and the ,feast of ,tabernacles4 ,the clouds that had overcast the sky1 and the fogs which had hung upon the mountains like floating curtains in the morning1 had been lifted up by noon1 and ,nature smiled in all the beauty of spring4 ,passing out of the eastern gate of the city1 ,i entered the ,vale of ,shechem4 ,it extends from the ,plain of ,mukhnah on the east to the city on the west1 and is two miles in length and something over #bjj yards in width4 ,it gently ascends from ,jacob's ,well1 and for half a mile its entire breadth is one vast and glorious grove of olive1 fig1 and almond trees1 presenting at times the density of a forest4 ,beyond the orchards are vineyards and fields of grain1 through which flows a crystal brooklet4 ,rising like massive walls from this garden valley are ,mount ,gerizim on the south and ,ebal on the north1 attaining an altitude of nearly #ajjj feet4 ,standing midway the vale1 and looking upon these celebrated mountains1 one is impressed with their singular companionship4 ,of equal height1 with rugged sides and flattened summits1 they remind one of twin brothers4 ,equally renowned in sacred history1 the honor bestowed upon the one was only equal to the glory conferred upon the other4 ,if ,gerizim was the mount of blessing and ,ebal the mount of cursing1 it was upon the latter that ,joshua reared the first altar to the living ,god in ,central ,palestine4 ,but1 less impartial than history1 ,nature symbolizes the benedictions and maledictions of the law by causing flowers to bloom on ,gerizim and thorns to grow on ,ebal4 ,midway the vale are corresponding nooks in the mountain sides1 resembling well-formed recesses1 and increasing its breadth to nearly #djj yards4 ,standing out from the base of the mountains are perpendicular ledges of rock1 not unlike grand pulpits1 from which the whole vale is distinctly seen4 ,somewhere in this expanse the hosts of ,israel assembled to hear all the words of the ,law4 ,divided by the centre of the vale1 the tribes of ,simeon and ,levi1 of ,judah and ,issachar1 of ,joseph and ,benjamin1 were gathered around the base of ,gerizim1 and the tribes of ,reuben and ,gad1 of ,asher and ,zebulun1 of ,dan and ,naphtali1 were congregated over against ,ebal4 ,standing above the people on these great pulpits1 which the ,creator had reared for an occasion so august1 the priests read the ,law1 while to each blessing and to each cursing the vast multitude responded their assent4#dhe ,so firmly does ,nature retain her ancient features1 and so exact is the correspondence between the inspired account and the scene as it now appears1 that1 standing within this venerable church of ,god's own construction1 thirty centuries unfold their mighty scroll1 and the past comes back with the actuality of the present4 ,before the eye of a sublime faith the tribes reassemble1 the priests take their stand1 and in sonorous tones slowly and distinctly read1 one by one1 each command and each prohibition1 while from either side1 in alternate responses1 beginning at the mountain base and rolling outward to the centre1 rises the full1 deep1 responsive 8,amen60 like the sound of many waters breaking in alternations of musical thunder against the opposite wall of the everlasting mountains4 ,the area was sufficient for that grandest of human assemblies2 and such is the profound silence of the vale1 the human voice was heard then1 as it is heard now1 from mountain to mountain4 ,viewed from this point1 ,gerizim is not unlike a cone with ridged sides and a broken base1 while ,ebal seems not so high nor steep1 but rougher1 with its top receding with gentle slope4 ,in the centre of the vale opposite the nooks is the cool1 clear1 sweet fountain of ',ain ,depneh1 whither1 as of old1 the maidens come for water1 and around which shepherds linger with their flocks4 ,in numberless rills the waters flow to the eastward1 in pearly brightness and perennial music1 the livelong day4 ,from the fig and almond bowers birds of elegant plumage awaken the gentler echoes of the vale4 ,less than half a mile to the east of the fountain is the wretched hamlet of ,belt1 presenting a melancholy contrast between the beauty of nature and the deformity of man4 ,two hundred yards beyond1 situated on the point of a spur from ,gerizim1 is ,jacob's ,well4 ,on a mound of shapeless ruins1 #bj feet above the ,plain of ,mukhnah1 are fragments of granite columns1 the remains of a ,christian church4 ,measuring #ge feet in depth and nine in diameter1 this patriarchal well is excavated in the solid rock with regular and smoothly-hewn sides4 ,originally1 a vaulted chamber1 #aj feet square and as many deep below the surface of the ground1 formed the entrance to the well1 the walls of which have fallen in1 rendering access difficult4 ,leaping down into the ruined vault1 ,i found two openings into the well through heaps of limestone blocks4 ,attaching a cord to a small tin bottle1 ,i lowered it to the depth of #fe feet1 but found no water2 on lowering it1 however1 through the other aperture to the depth of #ge feet ,i reached the water1 which was from three to five feet deep4 ,imagine my joy in drinking from the ,well of ,sychar1 whose waters were sanctified by the lips of the gracious ,redeemer6 ,it is clear like unto crystal1 having the softness of oil and the sweetness of honey4 ,illustration3 ,,jacob',s ,,well4 ,returning to the surface of the ground1 and sitting beside the well whither the sons and daughters of the patriarchs had often come for water1 and perchance where the ,master had sat1 ,i read its thrilling history as recorded by ,moses and by ,john4 ,with an accuracy that must claim the faith of every candid mind1 all the facts of the sacred narrative are in harmony with the physical features of the scene4 ,stretching out to the north1 east1 and south is the parcel of a field ,jacob bought of ,hamor for a hundred pieces of money1#dhf and on its western border is the well4 ,the three great religious sects agree as to its identity1 and its site has been preserved in the memory and affections of man through an unbroken tradition to our own time4 ,to one not conversant with ,eastern customs it would appear improbable that a man as shrewd and prudent as ,jacob would be at the expense and labor of excavating a well so near the living springs in the upper valley1 which have always poured their irrigating waters down the ,vale of ,shechem4 ,but the reflection on the prudence and economy of the patriarch is removed by the consideration of the well-known fact that in the ,east water is more valuable than land1 and a higher value is set upon a well or spring than upon fields of pasture4 8,pasture your flocks on my hills and plains1 but let my wells alone10 is the only request the ,oriental makes of the stranger4 ,in a land where water is scarce1 every proprietor aims to have a well of his own1 which he guards with peculiar vigilance4 ,the custom of digging wells on a newly-purchased estate is as old as ,abraham and ,isaac2 and as in their times1 so now1 there are more quarrels over wells of water than over fields of grain4 ,subject to the same social laws1 ,jacob but indicated his wisdom and conformed to an acknowledged usage in first purchasing a field and then digging a well4 ,accepting a tradition so venerable1 ,i yielded to the full enjoyment which such a scene is calculated to afford1 and the week ,i spent at ,nablous ,i never wearied in my journeyings to drink of these delicious waters4 ,interesting as were the patriarchal associations of the place1 it was with unmingled delight ,i read the beautiful story of our ,lord's conversation with the woman of ,samaria4 ,had ,st4 ,john written the incidents of the ,savior's journey from ,jerusalem to ,sychar with a previous knowledge that his narrative would be subjected to a searching criticism by the enemies of ,divine truth1 he could not have written with greater accuracy4 ,as the facts of topography on which the traveler relies for the credibility of the story are recorded merely as incidents to the story itself1 the correspondence between the statement and the fact is the more wonderful and convincing4 ,deeming it prudent to escape the snare of the ,pharisees1 8,jesus left ,judea and departed again into ,galilee40 ,to reach his destination 8he must needs go through ,samaria40 ,reaching ,jacob's ,well at noon1 he rested1 it being on the direct road to ,galilee by way of ,tirzah1 while his disciples1 turning to the left1 passed up the ,vale of ,shechem to the city to purchase refreshments4 ,during their absence came the 8woman of ,samaria10 with cord and pitcher1 to draw water4 ,he who had made the fountains of earth and sky requested1 8,give me to drink40 ,as at most ,eastern wells there is neither wheel1 chain1 nor bucket1 and surprised at his promise to give living waters1 her reply was no less natural than truthful3 8,sir1 thou hast nothing to draw with1 and the well is deep40 ,hoping to divert his attention from the irregularities of her life1 she introduced the relative claims of the ,jews and ,samaritans to religious superiority4 ,rising up before them was ,mount ,gerizim1 to which in turn each pointed in their allusions to the noble sanctuary crowning its summit4 ,looking with compassion upon the ,samaritans1 anticipating the great work to be wrought among them1 and impressed with the necessity of immediately laboring in their behalf1 he pointed to the ripe ,plains of ,mukhnah1 warning his disciples not to say1 8,there are yet four months and then cometh harvest2 behold1 ,i say unto you1 ,lift up your eyes and look on the fields1 for they are white already to harvest40#dhg ,while ,jews and ,samaritans1 ,christians and ,moslems1 agree that this is the ,well of ,sychar1 the ever-restless skepticism of modern times has called in question its otherwise undisputed identity4 ,because it is two miles from the city of ,shechem1 it is judged too far away for the woman to have come for water4 ,nothing1 however1 is said in the text to cause us to suppose she came from the city2 and if she had come from what is now known as ,nablous1 there are reasons for supposing that the ancient city extended farther east than the present one4 ,like the village of ,belt1 her native town might have been adjacent to the spot2 or at the noon hour she might have come from an adjoining field1 where1 with other peasant women1 she had spent the morning in the toils of husbandry4 ,but1 in the unmistakable fulfillment of our ,lord's prophecy1 time has furnished even a stronger proof of ,bible inspiration than the exact correspondence between the narration of the event and the description of the scene4 ,the woman of ,samaria is dead2 the disciples1 one by one1 have all passed to their reward2 the ,redeemer has ascended to glory2 ,gerizim is a desolation2 ,moriah is the shrine of ,mohammed2 and the prophetic words of ,jesus1 that first fell from his lips on the soft air of the ,vale of ,shechem1 and were whispered back by the winds from ,ebal and ,gerizim1 are now heard in all the valleys and on all the mountain summits in two hemispheres4 ,the tomb of ,joseph is in sight of his father's well1 around which he was wont to play when young4 ,when dying in the palace of ,pharaoh1 he had taken an oath of the children of ,israel that they should 8carry up his bones from hence20#dhh and1 true to their solemn vow1 8the bones of ,joseph1 which the children of ,israel brought up out of the land of ,egypt1 buried they in ,shechem1 in a parcel of ground which ,jacob bought of the sons of ,hamor1 the father of ,shechem40#dhi ,crossing a stream on which stands an old mill belonging to the village of ,belt1 we descended into the plain1 and1 passing through rich corn-fields half a mile to the north1 we came to a small square area inclosed by a white plastered wall1 marking the spot where sleeps in peace he who was the darling son1 the wandering shepherd1 the captive youth1 ,potiphar's slave1 ,asenath's betrothed1 ,pharaoh's prime minister1 the preserver of his country1 the joy of a dying father1 the exemplary saint1 and the model man4 ,how strangely the lines of human actions cross each other in the orderings of ,providence6 ,what beautiful coincidences transpire beneath his benign sway6 ,the parcel of land his father purchased of ,hamor is now the place of ,joseph's sepulchre1 and in the very field where he was lost he now rests in death4 ,and though the spot is unmarked by stately granite or marble shaft1 ,ebal1 the mountain of his boyhood1 is his imposing tomb-stone1 and over the whitened wall a vine is now creeping1 the symbol chosen by his dying father to preintimate the prosperity of a beloved son3 8,joseph is a fruitful bough1 even a fruitful bough by a wall1 whose branches run over the wall40#dij ,it was five o'clock on a bright spring morning when1 attended by a solitary guide1 ,i descended the ,vale of ,nablous to where the valley widens1 and began to ascend the ,mount of ,cursing4 ,the sun was just peering over the hills of ,ephraim1 transforming the dew-drops into sparkling jewels1 and awakening the matin notes of unnumbered songsters4 ,in an hour we gained the summit2 and though the horizon was misty1 limiting the view1 the familiar peaks of ,moab rose above the fog-clouds like islands in the ocean4 ,the sides of ,ebal are rough1 and its summit broad and stony4 ,a solitary goat-path leads over the mountain to the valleys beyond4 ,shepherds were roving with their flocks in quest of pasture1 and peasants were hastening to their daily toil4 ,the attritions of time and the sacrilegious hand of plunder have destroyed the altar ,joshua reared to ,jehovah4 ,from its highest peak a noble view is obtained of the fertile hills and valleys to the east1 and of the lofty ,tellzeh1 the renowned ,tirzah1 whose beauties ,solomon has embalmed in immortal song1#dia and which was once the rival of ,shechem as the seat of royalty4#dib ,returning to ,nablous1 we passed out of the western gate to ascend the ,mount of ,blessings4 ,at the portal stood a group of lepers1 perhaps the descendants of ,gehazi1 who was cursed with the leprosy of ,naaman4#dic ,poor creatures1 how sad they looked6 ,their ulcered faces1 dull1 restless eyes1 languid1 husky voices1 and tattered garments presented a mournful spectacle of fallen humanity4 ,excluded from society like those of ,jerusalem1 they live distinct1 to grieve1 rot1 and die in their wretched hovels4 ,standing afar off and arranging themselves in a semicircle1 twenty men and women1 in tones of pity1 asked our charities4 ,no sight among living things that meets the traveler's eye recalls the days of the benevolent ,savior so vividly as the appearance of lepers4 ,perhaps it was in this same city that 8there met him ten men that were lepers1 which stood afar off4 ,and they lifted up their voices and said1 ,jesus1 ,master1 have mercy on us40#did ,distributing bread among the poor creatures1 we turned to the left and began the ascent4 ,our path led up a glen of rare beauty1 and from a ridge to the south of the town we looked down upon the noble site of the city stretching nearly across the valley1 and from amid palms and trees of exquisite foliage rose domes and minarets4 ,just above the ridge1 in a sequestered spot1 is the large fountain of ',asal4 ,its clear waters1 being first gathered into immense troughs1 are then conducted by an aqueduct to a mill1 from which they flow down the hill-side into a quiet dell rich with shrubs and flowers4 ,crossing the stream1 we followed the path trodden by many ancient pilgrims1 and passed through groves of figs and almonds1 in the branches of which birds were singing merrily4 ,here the hill-sides were terraced1 supporting groves of fruit-trees and also vineyards4 ,beyond the orchards the path was steep and stony1 and turning abruptly to the left1 after half an hour's hard climbing we reached the summit of ,gerizim4 ,the top is a broad1 irregular plateau1 covered with heaps of stones and the remains of vast structures4 ,crowning a rocky knoll is the white wely seen from the ,heights of ,ephraim4 ,from the roof a view is obtained rivaling that from ,neby ,samwl in the extent and variety of the prospect4 ,far to the east1 like a massive wall1 stand the trans-,jordanic mountains2 on the south a succession of green hills appear as far as the eye can reach2 on the west are seen patches of the ,plain of ,sharon1 and through openings in the hills are caught glimpses of the ,mediterranean2 while dimly in the hazy northern sky ,hermon rises1 covered with snow and tinged with a purple hue4 ,in all its wealth and beauty1 at the mountain base lies the ,plain of ,mukhnah1 stretching eastward a broad green arm amid the dark hills of ,ephraim4 ,indistinctly the modern town of ,slim appears on its western border1 supposed to mark the site of ,shalem1 where ,jacob pitched his tent4 ,seen in the rays of the setting sun1 the plain resembles a magnificent carpet of vast dimensions1 of curious figures1 and of variant hues1 the chocolate-color of the soil1 the light green of the corn1 the sombre hue of the olive1 the dull gray of the protruding rocks1 and the purple and azure tints of the hills harmoniously blending4 ,of the nature and origin of the immense ruins covering the summit of ,gerizim but little is known4 ,there is one vast structure1 now in ruins1 consisting of two adjacent parts1 measuring #djj feet in length and #bej in breadth1 with the remains of square towers at each corner4 ,consisting of blocks of limestone with beveled edges and rough centres1 they are regarded by some as the remains of the once grand temple of the ,samaritans1 and by others as portions of the great fortress here erected by the ,emperor ,justinian4 ,though the ,samaritans reject these ruins as part of their temple1 yet they point to many of their sacred places4 ,beneath the western wall of what is now called the castle are twelve flat stones1 and under them are said to be the veritable twelve stones that ,joshua brought up out of the ,jordan as memorials of the miraculous dividing of the water4 ,a few yards to the south is their 8,holy of ,holies40 ,irregular in form1 it is a smooth-faced natural rock1 measuring #de feet in diameter1 and gently declining toward a deep-hewn pit called their sanctum sanctorum4 ,regarding it as holy ground1 they always remove their shoes before stepping upon it2 and as truly as the ,moslem turns toward ,mecca in the moment of prayer1 and the ,jew toward ,jerusalem1 so truly do the ,samaritans turn toward this rock-hewn cavern in the time of devotion4 ,contrary to all history and to all tradition1 they claim it as the scene of the offering of ,isaac1 of ,jacob's vision1 as the place where the ,tabernacle was first set up1 and where the ,ark rested4 ,sacred and profane history is too explicit to countenance either of these assumptions2 and1 besides the unanimous voice of history1 the distance from ,beersheba to ,gerizim is too great to have been accomplished in three days by ,abraham and his son4 ,even had the ,father of the ,faithful followed the ,plain of ,philistia1 and on the morning of the third day from the ,plain of ,sharon seen ,gerizim1 the difficulty of distance would not have been obviated by such a route1 as it would have required him to travel thirty miles a day for the first two days and twenty miles of heavy mountain-climbing for the third2 and as he and ,isaac returned to the young men the same day1 the distance would have been much greater4 ,not far from these ruins is a rectangular area1 surrounded with a low stone fence1 called the ,temple of the ,samaritans4 ,here they annually assemble1 pitch their tents1 and eat the ,passover4 ,near the inclosure is a circular pit1 three feet in diameter and ten deep1 in which the paschal lambs are roasted4 ,i was fortunate enough to be present on the #bc;d of ,april to witness the celebration of the feast of the ,samaritan ,passover4 ,according to their custom1 their whole community1 to the number of #acj souls1 consisting of men1 women1 and children1 had ascended the mount and pitched their tents1 some of which were white and others of variegated colors1 upon its broad summit4 ,the day being regarded by them as a gala-day1 all were attired in their gayest costumes1 and all rejoiced in the historic significance of the occasion4 ,occupying an elevated position1 the ceremonies were conducted by the venerable high-priest1 assisted by his two sons4 ,the male portion of the congregation stood in a group on a small mound1 chanting psalms and reciting portions of the ,pentateuch1 while the females remained in and around the tents4 ,in a group stood seven ,levites clad in white garments1 each holding by the head a lamb without spot or blemish2 near them were large caldrons of boiling water1 to scald the sheep like swine1 instead of flaying them1 as in the ordinary way2 and beyond was the circular furnace1 already heated1 to roast the offering4 ,the going down of the sun was the appointed time to slay the paschal lambs4 ,as the day declined1 each face was turned toward the west1 eagerly watching the last ray of the setting sun4 ,at length the solemn moment came2 the high-priest waved his hand as the signal for the slaughter2 in an instant each lamb was slain and lay bleeding at the ,levite's feet4 ,not a sound was heard4 ,each worshiper bowed his face to the earth1 his forehead touching the ground4 ,after an interval of silent prayer1 all arose1 greeted each other with a holy kiss1 and parents sprinkled the blood of the victims upon the forehead of their first-born4 ,the scalding of the sheep followed1 and after the fleece had been removed1 the seven lambs were suspended on heavy oaken spits1 and with much ceremony placed in the heated furnace4 ,it was night before the feast was ready4 ,the paschal moon had risen in unclouded beauty upon the rugged summit of ,gerizim1 and many a one had fallen asleep1 like the three disciples in ,tabor4 ,at length a shout is heardthe feast is ready6 ,the lambs being removed from the furnace1 the priest's portion was first presented to him1 and then the whole company1 except those women ceremonially unclean1 ate the flesh with bitter herbs and with unleavened bread1 in haste1 with their loins girded1 their shoes on their feet1 and their staffs in their hand4#die ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,a ,price for ,politeness4 ,escort4 ,picturesque ,scenery4 ,samaria4 ,its ,founder4 ,its ,vicissitudes4 ,residence of ,elisha4 ,famine4 ,city beautified by ,herod4 ,its ,location4 ,hill of ,omri4 ,grand ,ruins4 ,tomb of ,john the ,baptist4 ,temple of ,augustus4 ,prediction fulfilled4 ,departure for ,csarea4 ,night on the ,plain of ,sharon4 ,the ,sick brought out4 ,plain of ,sharon4 ,the ,lost ,lake4 ,csarea uninhabited4 ,dangers4 ,history4 ,imperial ,city under ,herod the ,great4 ,grand ,ruins4 ,st4 ,paul a ,prisoner4 ,death of ,herod ,agrippa4 ,athlt4 ,mount ,carmel4 ,scene of the ,sacrifice4 ,great ,event4 ,abode of ,elisha4 ,,samaria1 the ancient capital of ,israel1 is seven and a half miles to the northwest from ,nablous1 and #be miles beyond1 in the same direction1 is ,csarea1 on the ,mediterranean coast4 ,intending to encamp that night amid the ruins of the latter city1 we ordered our horses at nine ,a4,m4 ,at the appointed time their solid iron shoes were heard on the pavement below1 and the impatient ,arab servant was crying1 8,horses ready1 sir40 ,but we had met with an unexpected delay4 ,judging from the magnanimous manner in which the schoolmaster of ,nablous had received us at our arrival1 and his affable deportment during our stay1 he seemed above the tricks and meanness of other ,orientals2 but an ,arab is an ,arab the world overselfish1 money-loving1 and untrue1 whether ,christian1 ,jew1 or ,moslem4 ,eastern hospitality always means an equivalent to be returned for whatever has been received4 ,gifts are presented with the tacit understanding that presents are to be given in return4 ,even the merchant assures the buyer that all he has is his1 well knowing that in this unbounded generosity he is protected by the customs of the ,east1 which are invested with all the sanctity and authority of law4 ,more than once our host had said1 8,all ,i have is yoursmy house1 my food1 my service40 ,to the uninitiated this is equal to his ideal of ,oriental hospitality2 but when the day of departure comes1 the deceptive curtain is lifted1 and his ,arab host stands before him a persistent creditor4 ,having paid our host for his apartments and for the entertainment he had furnished1 ,i saw that he wore an expression of disappointment4 8,what is the matter1 my friend8 ,why is thy countenance sad1 seeing thou art not sick8 ,it is nothing else but sorrow of heart40 8,ah6 my dear sir1 you have paid me for my room1 for my food1 and for my service1 but you have not paid me for my politeness40 8,how much do you charge for your politeness80 ,a thoughtful moment followed1 and he replied1 8,two dollars and a half40#dif ,waving him an adieu1 we sprang into our saddles1 and in a few moments issued out of the western portal of the city4 ,intending to visit ,csarea1 which is now a desolation and a den of thieves1 we had taken the precaution to engage two ,turkish soldiers as a guard1 for whose service the governor had demanded an exorbitant sum4 ,they were to have met us at the gate of the town1 but1 true to their traditional indolence1 they did not arrive till long after the appointed hour4 ,the sun was high1 a long journey was before us1 many places of deep interest were to be visited1 and we felt impatient at the delay4 ,to wait was the only remedy4 ,at length one came1 informing us that his companion had lost his horse4 ,refusing to linger longer1 we ordered him to advance1 leaving word with the guard at the gate to hasten the tardy soldier1 who overtook us after half an hour's ride4 ,our cavalcade now presented a picturesque appearance as we wound round the southwestern spur of ,gerizim and descended into the upper end of the ,vale of ,shechem4 ,leading the way1 our guard were mounted on spirited horses fantastically caparisoned1 while they themselves were attired in costumes of the gayest colors4 ,each was armed with a long gun thrown across the shoulders1 a ,turkish sword dangling by his side1 and a brace of old-fashioned cavalry pistols sticking in his girdle4 ,as we advanced the scenery became surpassingly lovely4 ,terraced hills rose on either side1 casting a grateful shade in the vale below2 groves of figs and olives1 apples and pomegranates1 apricots and almonds1 covered the plain and mountain sides4 ,as we rode on1 our ears were saluted with the sound of running waters and the song of birds4 ,in less than thirty minutes we passed on our right a noble fountain1 covered with a ,roman arch1 around which were groups of peasants and droves of asses4 ,an hour beyond we came to an arched mill-race1 not unlike a ,roman aqueduct1 consisting of twelve pointed arches1 gray with age and festooned with graceful ferns4 ,it is used for carrying the water to the south side of the valley1 where it falls headlong into the heart of an old mill1 amid the whirr of wheels1 mingling an air of civilization with the crude mechanics of the ,east4 ,leaving this terrestrial elysium1 our path diverged northward over bleak hills whose limestone ribs had burst through the scanty soil1 intensely reflecting the light and heat of a ,syrian sun4 ,the path is cut into the solid rock1 in some places resembling steps1 but now worn smooth by the tread of man and beast4 ,near the summit of the ridge is the 8,shepherds' ,spring10 where maidens were drawing water for their flocks4 ,now the royal city of ,samaria rose to view4 ,its unique hill1 like a truncated cone1 adorned with circular terraces2 its marble porticoes1 now in ruins2 and its hut-like dwellings1 rising from amid the remains of more pretentious edifices1 formed a picture of singular beauty4 ,descending through magnificent groves1 the path followed the valley1 and1 after passing beneath an old arched gateway1 it abruptly turned to the west up the hill of the ,samaria of ,omri1 the ,sebaste of ,herod1 and the ,sebustieh of modern times4 ,the history of ,samaria is among the most thrilling and romantic portions of the ,sacred ,volume4 ,it dates back to #ijj years ,b4,c4 8,in the thirty and first year of ,asa1 king of ,judah1 began ,omri to reign over ,israel1 twelve years2 six years reigned he in ,tirzah4 ,and he bought the ,hill of ,samaria of ,shemer for two talents of silver1 and built on the hill1 and called the name of the city which he built after the name of ,shemer1 owner of the ,hill ,samaria40#dig ,up to this time the revolted ten tribes had no capital city as the object of their pride and the centre of their affections4 ,originating in rebellion1 the kingdom of ,israel had been governed by adventurers1 who had reared sumptuous palaces as fancy or luxury inclined4 ,from ,shechem1 the original seat of empire1 ,jeroboam removed to the enchanting ,heights of ,tirzah1 a magnificent mountain six miles north from ,nablous1 projecting from the table-land of ,ebal4 ,solomon had praised its beauty in his immortal song3 8,thou art beautiful1 ,o my love1 as ,tirzah20#dih and for forty years it was the seat of royalty4 ,ambitious for an imperial city near ,jerusalem1 ,baasha1 the successor of ,jeroboam1 abandoned ,tirzah for ,ramah2 but1 overtaken by misfortune1 he was compelled to return to the mountains of ,ephraim4 ,more successful1 however1 than his predecessor1 after a reign of six years ,omri finally exchanged ,tirzah for the strength1 wealth1 and glory of ,samaria4 ,succeeding his father ,omri to the throne of ,israel1 and marrying the ,sidonian ,jezebel1 ,ahab removed his court to ,jezreel1 on the slopes of ,gilboa4 ,to him belongs the shame of having first erected an idol temple to ,baal on the summit of ,samaria1 which secured for him the divine verdict that 8,ahab did more to provoke the ,lord ,god of ,israel to anger than all the kings of ,israel that were before him40#dii ,the city was a tempting prize to the military plunderers of that distant day4 ,in the reign of ,ahab1 ,benhadad1 king of ,damascus1 besieged it with a strong and boastful army1 but1 through the courage and celerity of the young men of the provinces1 he was repulsed with terrible slaughter4#ejj ,long the residence of the ,prophet ,elisha1 ,samaria was the scene of many of the most interesting events in his marvelous career4 ,benhadad1 regarding him the cause of the discomfiture of his army1 dispatched a detachment of troops to ,dothan1 six miles to the north1 to capture the man of ,god4 ,conscious of his danger1 ,elisha invoked the divine aid1 and the ,lord smote the men with blindness1 and the prophet1 whom they had been sent to capture1 led them as captives back to ,samaria4 ,forgetting that mercy is due to the vanquished1 the king of ,israel1 in a paroxysm of revenge1 cried out1 8,my father1 shall ,i smite them8 shall ,i smite them80 ,more humane than his royal master1 the kind-hearted ,elisha replied1 8,thou shalt not smite them3 wouldst thou smite them whom thou hast taken captive with thy sword and with thy bow8 ,set bread and water before them1 that they may eat and drink1 and go to their master40#eja ,benhadad1 enraged at his failure to capture the man whom he supposed was the cause of his ill success1 sought to accomplish by famine what he had failed to do by the sword4 ,investing the city on every side1 he reduced the citizens to the greatest necessity4 ,it was during the horrors of the long and fearful famine which followed that1 as the ,king of ,israel passed along the wall1 8there cried a woman unto him1 saying1 ,help1 my lord1 ,o king4 ,and he said unto her1 ,what aileth thee8 ,and she answered1 ,this woman said unto me1 ,give thy son1 that we may eat him to-day1 and we will eat my son to-morrow4 ,so we boiled my son and did eat him2 and ,i said unto her on the next day1 ,give thy son that we may eat him2 and she hath hid her son40 ,rending his clothes at a spectacle so mournful1 and erroneously attributing the famine to ,elisha1 the king swore1 8,god do so1 and more also to me1 if the head of ,elisha1 the son of ,shaphat1 shall stand on him this day40 ,conscious of his innocence and undaunted at the threat1 the prophet sat calmly in his house2 and1 contrary to all human probability1 but knowing what would befall the enemy that night1 he said to the executioner1 8,to-morrow about this time shall a measure of fine flour be sold for a shekel1 and two measures of barley for a shekel1 in the gate of ,samaria40 ,terrified by a supernatural noise1 that night the ,syrians abandoned their well-provisioned camp and fled for safety4 ,four lepers1 who had lingered outside of the city1 dying of hunger1 in the desperation of despair resolved to enter the enemy's camp and ask for bread2 but1 to their surprise1 the camp was empty of men1 but full of the spoils of war4 ,lepers though they were1 they hastened back to the city with the glad tidings of plenty1 and that day were fulfilled the prophetic words of ,elisha4#ejb ,illustration3 ,,samaria4 ,no important event occurred in connection with ,samaria for #gjj years1 till the reign of the ,emperor ,augustus1 who bestowed it as a gift upon ,herod the ,great1 by whom it was enlarged and beautified1 rivaling ,baalbec and ,palmyra in the magnificence of its architecture4 ,herod reared a temple on the summit of the hill in honor of his patron1 and inclosed its base with a colonnade1 consisting of two ranges of columns #ej feet apart1 and extending #cjjj feet in length4 ,such was the splendor of ,samaria in the apostolic age1 when ,philip1 together with ,peter and ,john1 preached the kingdom of heaven to the ,samaritans1 and encountered ,simon ,magus1 the sorcerer of ,sebaste4#ejc ,the ancient city was located on one of the most imposing and picturesque hills in ,palestine4 ,situated in a basin-like plain six miles in diameter1 it rises in an oval shape to the height of #cjj feet4 ,connected with the mountains on the east by a gentle swell of land1 it has the appearance of a noble promontory4 ,midway its sides is a broad1 irregular terrace1 the site of the modern town1 while its summit is a long1 level plateau4 ,on the north and south are valleys1 converging on the west into the ,valley of ,nablous and running to the sea1 bounded on either side by higher mountains1 dotted with villages1 and fertile in groves of fruit-trees and fields of grain4 ,nothing evinces the refinement and elegance of ,omri's taste more than the selection of this hill to be the site of his imperial city2 but1 under the degenerating influences of ,mohammedanism1 the beautiful in nature and the grand in art sink into insignificance4 ,the footfalls of the ,prophet are the pitfalls of civilization4 ,here1 as every where else in the ,east where he sways his sceptre and lifts his sword1 shame succeeds glory4 ,filth and rags1 indolence and turbulence1 crime and misery1 are the chief features of the #djj inhabitants of the modern town4 ,their sixty wretched huts are constructed of mud1 in which are imbedded the polished but now broken columns of costlier edifices4 ,in a region where plenty waits on ordinary industry1 they are but little above the condition of common beggars4 ,in such a land indolence is a crime and poverty a dishonor4 ,grand amid its ruins and conspicuous in its desolation is the ,church of ,john the ,baptist1 reared to the memory of that great man some time during the reign of the ,crusaders4 ,standing on the very brow of the broad terrace on the east1 its broken arches and crumbling walls recall the beautiful ruins of ,melrose and ,dryburg ,abbeys4 ,in form it resembles a ,greek cross4 ,the finish of the interior is of the ,corinthian order1 and exceedingly beautiful4 ,measuring #aec feet in length and #ge in width1 the interior consists of a nave and two grand aisles1 formed by rows of clustered columns ornamented with ,corinthian capitals4 ,in the eastern end is the chancel1 with pointed arches elegantly adorned1 resembling the segment of a circle4 ,but the ,gothic roof is gone1 and in the aisles grass grows where once cowled monks and mail-clad knights knelt in prayer4 ,on white marble tablets set in the wall are sculptured crosses of the ,order of the ,knights of ,st4 ,john1 now mutilated by the hand of ,moslem ignorance4 ,the southern half of the interior has been inclosed for a mosque1 and under a wely in this inclosure is the reputed tomb of ,st4 ,john1 called by the ,arabs 8,neby ,yahya40 ,it is a small chamber excavated in the solid rock1 reached by the descent of #ba steps4 ,here pious tradition points to the final resting-place of his headless body1 brought hither by his friends from the castle of ,machaerus1 on the east of the ,jordan1 where it was originally interred4 ,when the brave ,crusaders took possession of the ,holy ,land1 they guarded with affection and veneration the sepulchre of their patron saint1 and reared over his ashes this church as his funeral pile4 ,though impossible to determine the correctness of the tradition that here urns the dust of the greatest of prophets1 it is no less a tribute to his memory1 and a dishonor to the memory of his royal murderer1 that the name of ,john and that of ,herod are the only two conspicuous names perpetuated by the ruins of ,samaria4 ,plucking a memorial leaf from the tomb1 we followed the broad1 level belt of land to the southwest side of the hill1 where are the remains of ,herod's colonnade4 ,it is impossible to speak with accuracy of its vastness and magnificence4 ,according to ,josephus1 ,herod enlarged the city1 surrounded it with a wall #bj furlongs in circumference1 in the midst of which he left an open area a furlong and a half in circumference1 where he erected a temple to ,augustus1 remarkable alike for the vastness of its dimensions and the exquisite beauty of its finish4#ejd ,to rival the renowned city of ,palmyra1 he constructed a colonnade #ej feet wide and #cjjj long1 consisting of two rows of polished limestone columns #af feet high and two feet in diameter1 ornamented with ,corinthian capitals4 ,through this imposing colonnade the royalty1 the beauty1 and military of ,sebaste passed up to the temple of ,augustus1 which crowned the hill of ,omri2 but1 like the grim skeleton of departed beauty1 it is now a ruin4 ,for more than #bjj feet this avenue is marked by prostrate columns and broken bases4 ,a hundred shafts still stand erect as when reared eighteen centuries ago1 but now marred by the rude plowshare of the equally rude ,arab4 ,ascending to the site of the temple1 #bjj feet above the colonnade1 we found #ag columns without capitals1 two of which were lying prostrate1 overgrown with the ripening grain4 ,half a mile distant to the right were #ae columns1 which are all that remain of that famous quadrangle composed of #agj columns4 ,where marble walks once ran and exquisite statuary stood1 venerable ,nature1 outliving the monuments of human greatness1 has resumed her ancient sway1 bearing on her fertile bosom clustering vines and ripening grains4 ,from the summit the prospect is no less extensive than captivating4 ,unrivaled by any other hill as a site for a capital1 the position of ,samaria is strong and central1 its environs are fertile1 and its summit is fanned with breezes from the distant sea4 ,the vineyards1 the cotton-fields1 the circlet of mountains green with corn1 and the rich ,plain of ,sharon beyond1 bounded by the blue waters of the ,mediterranean1 form a picture of more than ordinary beauty1 and one which ,elisha and ,herod1 ,philip1 and ,peter1 and ,john must have contemplated with delight4 ,as we descended from the ruins of ,sebaste1 whose citizens were great in crime as they were great in wealth and power1 the prophetic denunciations against the city and their fulfillment were recalled to mind3 8,i will make ,samaria as an heap of the field and as plantings of a vineyard2 and ,i will pour down the stones thereof into the valley1 and ,i will discover the foundations thereof40#eje 8,samaria shall become desolate1 for she hath rebelled against her ,god40#ejf ,it was two ,p4,m4 when we mounted our horses for ,csarea4 ,reapers were thrusting the sickle into the ripe barley1 and maidens were gleaning after them1 as we rode over the ,plain of ,sebaste4 ,soon we turned westward and again entered the ,valley of ,nablous1 here known as ,wady ,sh'ar1 8,the ,valley of ,barley40 ,through its centre flows a brook1 which increases in width and rapidity as it approaches the sea4 ,following the northern bank of the stream1 we passed1 at intervals of several hundred yards1 ,roman aqueducts1 near which are mills driven by water power4 ,reaching the small hamlet of ',anebta1 the road to ,csarea branches1 one continuing down the valley to the ,plain of ,sharon1 while the other1 striking across the barren ridges of ,wady ,mussn1 enters the plain by the village of ,bkah4 ,choosing the latter1 we traversed a barren and cheerless region4 ,night came on apace as we neared the large and flourishing town of ,shuweikeh1 situated on a lofty hill4 ,passing the village of ,kakn1 we mistook ,zeita for the town of ,bkah4 ,riding through its silent streets1 we learned from a peasant that the place of our night's encampment was still to the westward4 ,regaining the road1 we lingered for a moment to examine the remarkable ,hill of ,zt1 marking the eastern border of the ,plain of ,sharon4 ,its sides are scarped and regular1 and its summit is level2 around its base are hewn stones and fragments of columns belonging to some unknown city4 ,it was here we had a despicable instance of the military tyranny of the ,turks4 ,one of our soldiers rode into a field and cut down grain enough to feed his horse that night1 while the owner1 who was a poor man1 besought him1 in the most respectful manner1 to spare his grain1 as it was all his property4 ,but neither age1 prayers1 nor poverty touched the heart of that military ruffian4 ,anxious1 hungry1 and weary1 we pitched our tents1 at eight ,p4,m41 in the environs of ,bkah1 a small straggling town on one of the richest plains in the world4 ,the mules unloaded1 the horses tethered1 supper over1 prayers offered1 my companions asleep1 ,i walked out upon the magnificent ,plain of ,sharon4 ,a dreamy haze1 like gossamer gauze1 veiled the skies of night1 through which moon and stars softly peered4 ,a scene so lovely recalled the tender strain of one of our finest poets3 8,oh6 sweet and beautiful night1 ,when the silver moon is high1 ,and countless stars1 like clustering gems1 ,hang sparkling in the sky3 ,while the breath of the summer breeze ,comes whispering down the glen1 ,and one fond voice alone is heard ,oh1 night is lovely then40 ,the horse and his rider lay side by side1 and the watch-fires1 burning dimly1 shed a livid glare upon the sleepers4 ,the moon1 growing brighter as she ascended1 silvered each spear of grass and blade of corn1 while far away to the east1 amid the mountain glens of ,samaria1 8,shadows wandered free1 ,but spoke not o'er the idle ground40 ,it was now midnight1 and ,i was alone1 a stranger in a strange land1 without one near me whose face ,i had seen beyond the ocean4 ,the heavens only were familiar2 the moon and stars of my childhood were as old companions2 but1 rising above the one and the other1 ,i sought communion with ,him who is enthroned on high4 ,the morning dawned inauspiciously2 the gossamer veil of the previous night had been folded into thick clouds1 which obscured the summits of the distant hills4 ,while we were waiting for our muleteer to load his beast1 there occurred a scene illustrating the tenacity of ,eastern customs4 ,in our party was ,dr4 ,barclay1 the eminent ,american physician of ,joppa4 ,his fame had preceded him1 and1 learning of his arrival1 the villagers brought out their sick of all ages1 and for a time our encampment became a hospital4 ,among the number was a young girl1 who with faltering step came leaning upon the arm of her mother4 ,she was pale and emaciated1 and apparently in the last stages of consumption4 ,the doctor examined her symptoms1 questioned her mother1 and prescribed for the patient1 who long since1 ,i fear1 has passed to another world4 ,such was a faint illustration of the days of the ,savior1 when 8they brought unto him those having all manner of diseases1 and he cured them40 ,in a country where science is neglected1 materia medica is unknown1 the barber is the physician1 bloodletting is the panacea for all diseases1 and the 8medicine-man0 of more enlightened lands is revered next to ,god4 ,the sick had scarcely found shelter within their hovels when the storm broke upon us in all its fury4 ,protected by a thick burnous and a ,mackintosh coat1 we waited patiently the return of fair weather4 ,the rain ceasing1 we advanced1 but had not reached the southern limits of the town when the storm was renewed with tenfold violence4 ,deeming it prudent to halt1 we remained upon the plain for an hour1 amid a drenching rain and exposed to a raging wind2 but when the rain ceased a rainbow spanned the heavens such as seldom appears in ,western skies4 ,hoping to reach ,csarea by noon1 we dashed over the plain1 and in less than two hours came to the ,nahr ,abu ,zabra1 which was so swollen as to render fording dangerous4 ,exploring the banks for a ford1 but failing to find one1 we plunged in with a shout1 and with difficulty gained the opposite bank4 ,safely 8beyond the floods10 the ,plain of ,sharon lay before us in all its wealth and beauty4 ,it extends like a vast prairie from the base of ,carmel on the north to the sea-girt cliffs of ,joppa on the south4 ,eastward the ,hills of ,samaria look down upon it1 with ,ebal and ,gerizim rising above their fellows4 ,westward is the sea1 whose waters roll their ceaseless waves against its 8empire shores40 ,it has a shore line of #ej miles in length1 and varies from one to #ae miles in breadth4 ,undulating in long and graceful swells1 it is at intervals dotted with low hills crowned with the ruins of unknown towns4 ,retaining its ancient character1 it is the best pasture-land west of the ,jordan valley4 ,three thousand years ago here ,shitrai the ,sharonite kept the flocks of ,david1#ejg and over its ample fields the shepherd of to-day might wander with his herds4 ,of the 8rose of ,sharon0 neither peasants nor scholars have any knowledge at present2 if it exists1 it is not recognized by its inspired name4 ,there grows upon the plain the 8imperial thorn10 by some regarded as the thorn of which the ,savior's crown was made4 ,growing to the height of four feet1 it has a gorgeous purple blossom1 with a long1 lancet-like brier1 and would well compose a mock imperial crown4 ,there are no paths over this great plain1 which is seldom trodden except by those who till the soil1 and the compass or a peasant is the traveler's only guide4 ,though ordinarily this is a disadvantage1 yet to us it proved advantageous1 as in our wanderings we discovered a lake that had been lost since the days of the ,crusaders4 ,though it is not large1 its waters are pure1 of a bluish tint1 and abound in fish4 ,flocks of wild ducks were floating on its placid bosom4 ,its waters never fail1 though they are sensibly increased by the rains in the wet seasons4 ,its shores are clean and sandy4 ,on the north it is bounded by a high sand-bank of many miles in extent4 ,the sand is of an orange color1 like that found on the ,debbet er-,ramleh in ,arabia4 ,on the south and west there is a meadow rich in rank weeds1 and covered with acres of white and yellow daisies4 ,on the north and east there is an oaken grove1 lovely as an ,english park4 ,crossing the large sand-hill1 we soon entered a tract of country remarkable only for the quantity of thorns and brambles1 which scratch both man and beast in the most painful manner4 ,an hour's ride from the lake brought us to the outer walls of ,csarea1 and at one ,p4,m4 we encamped within its massive ruins4 ,fearing an attack1 our soldiers immediately left us to return to ,nablous1 assigning as the cause the worst of military reasonsthat they were afraid to remain4 ,an ,arab soldier is rarely to be trusted in danger4 ,his convictions of right and wrong1 his sense of obligation1 his want of personal courage1 his habitual meanness of soul1 and his traditional hatred of the ,christian1 disqualify him to be a trusty guard4 ,he is of advantage to the traveler in saving him from the petty annoyances of the common people1 by whom he is dreaded because he is tyrannical and brutal1 but it is his nature to cower in the presence of a superior and courageous foe4 ,there is nothing so mean as an ,arab soldier4 ,it was a dangerous experiment to visit ,csarea1 and especially to remain there during the night without a guard4 ,for many years there has been a standing feud between the ,fellahn who dwell in the villages on the plain and the ,hawra ,arabs who hover along the coast4 ,it was a novel sight1 as we crossed the fields1 to see farmers engaged in the peaceful pursuits of husbandry armed to the teeth4 ,men were threshing with guns slung upon their backs2 women were gleaning with heavy clubs dangling at their side2 and patrol-men1 with sword and pistols1 gun and lance1 were on the alert to give the alarm at the first appearance of the foe4 ,with brief intervals1 such has been the condition of ,sharon since the earliest ages1 and ,isaiah gives it as a sign of the restoration of the ,jews1 that 8,sharon shall be a fold of flocks1 and the ,valley of ,achor a place for the herds to lie down in1 for my people that have sought me40#ejh ,discouraged by such dangers1 but few travelers attempt this interesting tour2 but there is so much of religious and political importance connected with this renowned city1 that we felt justified in making the journey and remaining during the night1 after we had been abandoned by our military escort4 ,the authentic history of ,csarea commences with ,strabo1 in the reign of ,augustus1 who describes it as an insignificant landing-place1 marked by 8,strato's ,tower40 ,from this solitary tower ,csarea became the most magnificent city in ,palestine1 under the auspices of ,herod the ,great4 ,the subject and friend of ,augustus1 he sought to perpetuate the favor of his royal master by founding an imperial city and giving to it the family name of ,csar2 and1 impelled by an unbounded ambition1 he aimed1 if possible1 to make it rival ,rome in the elegance of its architecture and in the extent of its commerce4 ,abandoning the traditions of his fathers1 he transferred the capital of his empire from its mountain fastnesses to this inhospitable coast1 which exposed it alike to the corruption of ,western nations and to the attack of their naval galleys4 ,but in removing the sceptre of empire from ,judah he unconsciously became the accomplisher of prophecy1 and in inviting the civilization of the ,west to his shores he unintentionally opened a highway for the nations to hear from apostolic lips the sublime lessons of ,christianity4 ,sparing neither art nor treasure in founding his new city1 he surrounded it with a wall of many miles in circumference1 and within the inclosure erected on a commanding hill1 which he encompassed by a second wall1 a splendid temple of white marble1 and dedicated it to ,csar4 ,according to ,josephus1 he adorned it with two statues1 one representing ,rome1 and the other his patron ,augustus4 ,to attract the commerce of the ,west1 he constructed in front of the acropolis a harbor equaling the ,athenian ,pirus both in elegance and extent4 ,sinking huge stones to the depth of #bj fathoms1 he constructed an immense and gently-curving breakwater to protect vessels in port from the southern and western gales1 but left an open channel on the north for the entrance and departure of ships4 ,to strengthen and beautify the mole1 he reared large towers1 containing vaulted chambers adorned with arched ceilings1 mosaic pavements1 polished columns1 and sculptured capitals1 for the accommodation of naval officers1 and connected the towers and the shore by a long quay1 designed for the landing of merchandise and the pleasures of a promenade4 ,to tempt the wealth and fashion of ,greece and ,rome1 he erected on the east and south a vast theatre and circus2 and to secure the health and comfort of the citizens1 he built aqueducts extending miles in length1 and large enough to admit a mounted cavalier4#eji ,but the history of ,csarea was as brief as it was splendid2 its decline was as rapid as its rise was sudden4 ,forsaken by men1 it is now an uninhabited desolation4 ,an unbroken silence reigns within its palaces1 the wild ,arab refuses to pitch his tent within the crumbling walls1 and the shepherd declines to lead his flock amid its wild flowers and rich grasses4 ,rank weeds grow where royal feet trod1 the shy fox barks and the hungry jackal wails where kings reigned1 and sobbing winds sigh responsive to moaning waves where the voice of revelry was heard4 ,as the ancient population of the city1 consisting of #bjj1jjj souls1 could not have resided within the walls of the acropolis1 our first attempt was to ascertain the location and direction of the outer wall4 ,riding to the east of the town1 we could trace a regular mound sweeping from shore to shore in the form of a semi-circle1 now covered with rubbish1 and overgrown with high weeds4 ,returning1 we ascended the second or inner wall1 which is well preserved1 and is exceedingly strong4 ,on the south1 east1 and north it is surrounded by a deep moat1 and is flanked on three sides by bastions surmounted with towers #abj and #aej feet apart4 ,commencing on the shore1 the north wall runs inland a distance of #ijj feet2 forming an angle at this point with the eastern wall1 the latter extends southward #agbh feet1 where it joins the south wall1 which runs to the sea1 a distance of #feg feet4 ,having an altitude of more than #gj feet1 this wall is supported by #ag bastions4 ,to increase its defensive power1 the eastern wall is double1 one portion being perpendicular and the other oblique4 ,near the northeast angle is a large gateway1 the chief entrance to the town on the east2 and in the southern wall1 near the shore1 there is another gate1 surmounted by one of the watch-towers of the olden city4 ,measuring half a mile in length and a quarter in breadth1 the whole area within this inclosure is covered with heaps of rubbish1 with deep intervening pits2 and on the one and in the other grow marigolds1 white daisies1 chess1 thistles1 and brambles4 ,not a fragment of ,csarea's temple remains to be identified1 and on its site are the ruins of the ,cathedral of ,csarea1 in which the learned ,eusebius officiated as bishop of the diocese for more than a quarter of a century4 ,of this noble edifice four large buttresses are standing1 which1 from their height1 are seen from afar1 presenting an imposing appearance to the traveler1 whether his approach is from the plain on the east or from the sea on the west4 ,though a complete ruin1 the outline of this early ,christian church can be traced without difficulty4 ,constructed of beveled stones1 the interior consisted of a nave and two lateral aisles4 ,originally extending #adc feet in length1 #aba feet of the south wall continue in situ1 #ac feet in thickness4 ,in the eastern end is the chancel1 which1 consisting of three semicircular apses measuring #fj feet in all1 is the breadth of the cathedral4 ,standing from #af to #bj feet apart1 and being from five to seven feet thick1 the four remaining buttresses formed the grand portico to this ,christian temple4 ,judging from the projection of the arch1 the doorway was #ab feet high1 as it is nine wide4 ,beneath the church is a dark and loathsome vault #gg feet long1 gradually declining toward the east4 ,it is now the den of jackals and hyenas4 ,illustration3 ,,ancient ,c,,sarea4 ,if any work of art is worthy to be called grand1 it is the ,herodian harbor of ,csarea4 ,the breakwater described by ,josephus is a continuation of the southern wall of the acropolis1 more than #cjj feet of which are still visible above the sea4 ,some of the stones in the lower courses are #bj feet long1 six wide1 and as many thick4 ,in the southeast corner of the mole are the remains of a tower1 reached by #bj stone steps1 and commanding a view of the entire port4 ,the ceiling was formerly arched1 and a portion of an old arch projects from the side1 resting on the figure of a human head4 ,connected with this tower1 and on a level with the shore1 were the apartments for the officers of custom1 the mosaic floors of which remain in excellent condition4 ,on the very extremity of the mole is another tower1 containing a square room #bj feet high1 #cj wide1 and #ce long1 but the waves are fast wearing it away4 ,on the northern side of the harbor1 flanked by stones #ae feet long1 seven wide1 and six thick1 are three immense gateways for the entrance of vessels4 ,following the shell-strewn shore of a small bay1 we reached the end of the northern wall of the acropolis4 ,the noble marble pier1 once extending into the sea #agj feet1 is now a ruin4 ,its hundred prostrate columns lie as they fell1 most of them parallel to each other1 with now and then one lifting its head in silence above its fellows1 worn by the tireless surges which roll over it1 careless of its former grandeur4 ,to me1 sitting on one of those columns far out into the sea1 time passed unconsciously4 ,the day had declined1 the golden sun was sinking into the distant ocean1 and1 as if an angel had led me back into the past1 ,i thought of the fall of empires and the vanity of human glory4 ,hailing the first blush of returning day1 ,i sat on the desolate shore and read the inspired history of ,csarea4 ,excepting ,jerusalem1 no city in ,palestine is more intimately connected with the early ,christian ,church4 ,coming from the interior1 the apostles sought the great centres of commerce1 where they preached to men of all nations their catholic faith4 ,having baptized the ,ethiopian eunuch1 ,philip the ,evangelist followed the coast1 and1 preaching ,jesus to the inhabitants of all the maritime cities thereon1 he came to ,csarea4#eaj ,thirty years thereafter1 here1 with his four daughters1 he resided as one of the seven deacons of the infant church1 when ,st4 ,paul and ,st4 ,luke were his guests4 ,it was in his house that ,agabus took ,paul's girdle1 and1 binding his own hands and feet1 foretold the arrest and imprisonment of the apostle to the ,gentiles4#eaa ,arrested in the ,holy ,city1 here ,paul was brought a prisoner by order of ,claudius ,lysias1 and somewhere amid these ruins was the dungeon in which he was confined two years4 ,in obedience to ,roman law1 hither came ,ananias the high-priest1 with the orator ,tertullus1 to accuse him before the governor4 ,here stood the palace of the sordid ,felix and his adulterous ,drusilla1 where he 8reasoned of righteousness1 temperance1 and judgment to come20 and where he made that marvelous defense before ,agrippa and ,festus1 provoking the taunt from the latter1 8,paul1 thou art beside thyself2 much learning hath made thee mad20 and extorting the concession from the former1 8,almost thou persuadest me to be a ,christian40 ,and from this harbor1 now the wreck of earlier grandeur1 that apostle entered the ship ,adramyttium1 under ,julius1 a centurion of ,augustus's band1 to prosecute his appeal before ,csar1 and at last to die a martyr at ,ire ,fontana1 beneath the walls of ,rome4#eab ,here was the home of the devout ,cornelius1 to whom ,peter came from ,joppa on the coast1 #cc miles to the south1 with the keys of the kingdom of heaven1 to open its gates to the ,gentiles and baptize the first heathen convert4 ,here1 in the year #bgj ,a4,d41 ,eusebius ,pamphili was born1 and subsequently this was the birthplace of ,procopius the historian4 ,sending the baggage to ,athlt1 our party separated to explore the different parts of the city1 agreeing to rendezvous at night at the above-named place4 ,riding down the coast with a single companion1 we first examined ,herod's amphitheatre4 ,located a little south of the acropolis wall1 it occupies a commanding position4 ,judging from the shape of the ground1 it was originally semicircular in form4 ,much of the masonry has survived the waste of time1 and among the broken granite columns is one nine feet in circumference4 ,the arena has an eastern and western diameter of #fi feet1 and a northern and southern diameter of #gh feet4 ,the seats are of stone1 arranged in tiers1 and recede as they ascend1 giving a slope from the bottom of the arena to the outside of the uppermost seat of #ij feet4 ,the width of the eastern wall1 from the highest tier of seats to its outer edge1 is #ge feet1 forming a grand promenade4 ,it was not possible to determine whether this is an embankment of earth faced with masonry or a solid wall4 ,it is penetrated with arched passage-ways1 like those in the amphitheatres of ,capua and ,pompeii1 which lead to the dens and stalls of the animals designed for the entertainment of the spectators4 ,on the south side is one of the principal vomitories leading to the arena2 it is #aa feet wide1 #dh long1 and is the only one now open4 ,high up in the southeast part of the building is a solitary seat1 just as it was left by the last spectator by whom it was occupied4 ,the shape of the mounds on the south indicates that the southern wall of the theatre served as part of the city wall1 as on its extreme western end are the remains of an old watch-tower containing a circular chamber1 and not far to the north are the ruins of another1 occupying a narrow neck of land commanding the approaches to the coast4 ,it is evident1 from the present appearance of the mounds1 that originally the walls extended to the shore1 agreeing with the description of ,josephus that 8it was conveniently situated for a prospect to the sea40#eac ,with this theatre stands connected one of the most mournful tragedies of ,bible times4 ,having murdered the ,apostle ,james and attempted the life of ,peter1 ,herod ,agrippa came from ,jerusalem to ,csarea to call to account the citizens of ,tyre and ,sidon1 who had incurred his royal displeasure4 ,arrayed in robes of gold and silver texture1 ,herod entered the theatre on a festive day to deliver an oration to his subjects4 ,according to an ancient custom1 it was early in the morning1 and the sun's rays1 falling upon his resplendent garments1 dazzled the eyes of the beholders1 who1 in a delirium of joy at the brilliant spectacle1 and at the same time affected by the eloquent tones of his voice1 rose en masse and cried out1 8,it is the voice of a god and not of a man4 ,be thou merciful to us2 for1 although we have hitherto reverenced thee only as a man1 yet shall we henceforth own thee as superior to mortal nature40 ,in this moment of divine homage he looked up and saw above him1 on a rope1 an owl1 a bird of ill omen4 ,it was the messenger of his departure4 ,refusing to rebuke this impious flattery1 8the angel of the ,lord smote him1 because he gave not ,god the glory1 and he was eaten up of worms1 and gave up the ghost40#ead ,looking upon his flatterers as he expired1 the dying king exclaimed1 8,i1 whom ye call a god1 am commanded presently to depart this life1 while ,providence thus reproves the lying words you have just said to me2 and ,i1 who was by you called immortal1 am immediately to be hurried away by death40#eae ,the construction of the theatre is in harmony with these serious facts4 ,the imperial throne being on the west side of the edifice1 toward the shore2 the auditors sitting with their backs toward the east2 and the building1 like all structures of the kind in ,eastern countries1 having no roof1 the rising sun shone with dazzling brightness upon the monarch's robes1 transforming him into an object of indescribable magnificence1 and awakening the acclamations of the people4 ,riding eastward through lacerating thorns and briers1 we saw a red granite block1 #ce feet long1 five wide1 and four thick1 lying upon its broad surface1 and near it another of less dimensions4 ,beyond them1 to the north1 is ,herod's circus for chariot racing4 ,it consists of an oblong basin with embanked sides4 ,the three conical shafts of red granite1 averaging from eight to ten feet in length1 which marked the goal of the ancient course1 are still standing2 and in the midst of a field not far to the northwest is a deep well1 #bj feet in diameter1 with circular mouthpiece and arched roof4 ,the ride from ,csarea to ,mount ,carmel is less remarkable for its ,biblical antiquities than for the pleasures of the tour4 ,it was #aa ,a4,m4 when we regained the shore1 and ,i rejoiced in the mysterious companionship of the sea4 ,the aqueducts of ,herod extended for miles on our right1 and1 though dry1 are in a good condition4 ,the coast is here lined with low black rocks1 against which the waves dash wildly1 the spray reflecting the rainbow4 ,at midday we came to the ,nahr ,zurka1 or the ,crocodile ,river of ,strabo and ,pliny1 which is a clear and fordable stream4 ,having its source among the hills on the east1 it flows down a pretty glen1 amid wild flowers and dense shrubbery4 ,to the left is a low promontory1 jutting into the sea1 and covered with the shapeless remains of some unknown light-house4 ,to the right the ,samarian ,hills creep down to the shore4 ,the beach soon widened1 and was strewn for miles with white and purple shells to the depth of several feet4 ,in two hours we passed ,tantra1 the ,dor of the ,scriptures1 whose king was the ally of ,jabin of ,hazor4#eaf ,it is a small village of #cj houses2 and on an islet to the west is an old tower1 which1 like an ancient landmark1 is seen from ,csarea to ,carmel4 ,passing the small towns of ,kefr ,naum and ,surafend on the right1 we reached ,athlt at six ,p4,m4 on ,saturday1 and pitched our tents on a beautiful lawn1 beneath the walls of the ,castellum ,peregrinorum4 ,this is the second most interesting city of ,phnicia1 but the date of its origin and the name of its founder are unknown4 ,with ruins as vast and grand as those of ,csarea1 the style of the architecture is superior to that of the city of ,herod4 ,unnoticed by sacred and profane historians1 its name remained in obscurity till the twelfth century1 when the ,crusaders selected it as the chief landing-place for pious pilgrims en route for the ,holy ,city1 calling it the 8,pilgrims' ,castle40 ,it occupies a rocky promontory1 and is bounded on the west by the ever-majestic sea1 and on the east by green hills and fertile plains4 ,crossing the headland from bay to bay are the remains of an outer wall1 which once inclosed a quadrangular area a mile in extent4 ,within this inclosure stood the citadel1 inclosed by a wall #ae feet thick and #cj high4 ,it was constructed of pure ,phnician stones1 and was penetrated by three gates1 two on the east and one on the south1 which were reached by stone steps4 ,opposite the southern gate is a massive pier #ab feet wide and #aej long1 most of which is still above the water4 ,here the shore is covered with prostrate columns1 fallen pendentives1 broken entablatures1 and marred cornices4 ,rising out of the sea are sections of the western wall1 the southern end of which is formed of circular stones #ab feet in circumference4 ,originally there sprang from this wall a lofty arcade #ce feet wide1 and beneath it ran an arched passage-way across the entire promontory4 ,in the northwest corner is a large room1 to the very door of which vessels came to land their passengers and discharge their cargoes4 ,to the northeast of this arcade is a plain ,gothic church #bj feet wide and #acc long4 ,the ceiling is supported by #ab arches1 springing from as many plain brackets1 each arch culminating in an elegant embossed flower4 ,the interior is reached by a single door1 and its one square and two pointed windows look upon the sea4 ,consisting of a few huts1 occupied by inhabitants as filthy as they are wretched1 the modern town of ,athlt is piled upon the ruins of the ancient acropolis4 ,beneath the citadel are immense vaults1 supporting the formidable fortress above4 ,in the midst of these huts stands the once magnificent ,gothic church of the ,crusaders4 ,the remaining wall is #hj feet high1 and is divided into sections by ribs1 which rest upon the heads of human figures4 ,these arches1 no doubt1 spanned the eastern aisle of the church in the days of its glory4 ,such are the splendid ruins of ,athlt4 ,impressed with its greatness1 ,i experienced the novel emotions of gazing upon a decayed city whose powerful citizens are without a record in history4 ,enumerating ,dor and its towns1 ,joshua may have included ,athlt2 or1 if it existed at that time1 it may not have been possessed by ,issachar4 ,two roads lead from the 8,pilgrims' ,castle0 to ,mount ,carmel1 one along the coast to ,haifa1 the other through the ,vale of ,dor4 ,we took the latter3 the path leads over rich plains1 where reapers and gleaners were gathering the ripened grain4 ,to the east the trees and blades of corn seemed to rise out of water1 but we soon discovered that it was a mirage4 ,in an hour we reached the mouth of a narrow mountain defile4 ,to the south of the entrance are two remarkable caves1 which some time have been human habitations4 ,the larger of the two is #cjj feet long and #ej wide4 ,the sides and top are formed into sections by #ac natural arches1 resembling the ribbed ceiling of a ,gothic church4 ,the bottom of the cave declines inward1 and near its termination the percolated water drops from the fretted roof4 ,entering the mountain gorge1 the lofty hills on either side are covered with oaks1 hawthorn1 myrtle1 and acacias1 and flowers bloomed along the grassy vale4 ,the ,sabbath silence that reigned within was unbroken save by the cooing of the dove in its mountain home1 and the scream of the eagle as he flew from his inaccessible eyry4 ,the hills soon receded1 and the broad valley was dotted with oaken groves and fields of pasture1 where herds of cattle and flocks of sheep and goats were browsing4 ,passing through the village of ,asifriah1 we descended a steep path leading into a ravine of extraordinary grandeur4 ,descending the glen1 between mountains which arose thousands of feet above us1 we turned to the north and began the ascent of ,carmel4 ,for two hours we ascended a mountain path steep and rugged1 lined with oaks1 acacias1 and flowers1 when we gained the summit of the sacred mount1 and stood with ,elijah of ,tishbe1 and ,elisha1 the son of ,shaphat4 ,branching off from the northern portion of the mountains of ,samaria1 ,carmel is a bold and grand promontory projecting into the sea4 ,running in a northwesterly direction1 it is the boundary-line between the ,plain of ,sharon on the south and that of ,phnicia on the north4 ,rising #bjjj feet above the sea1 it is #ah miles long and five wide4 ,covered with evergreen oaks1 it is appropriately called 8,the ,fruitful ,field40 ,as the type of natural beauty1 ,isaiah compares the returning glory of his nation to the 8excellency of ,carmel10#eag while ,amos predicts that 8the top of ,carmel shall wither10#eah as descriptive of the utter ruin of his country4 ,from the summit the eye rests upon one of the noblest landscapes in the world4 ,to the west is that 8great sea0 seen by the prophet's servant2 to the south are the ,mountains of ,samaria2 to the north the ,hills of ,nazareth2 while to the east is the ,plain of ,esdraelon1 stretching far away to the ,jordan in vast undulations1 and dotted with ,gilboa1 ,little ,hermon1 and ,mount ,tabor4 ,but the glory of ,carmel is its sacred associations4 ,in the darkest hour in ,jewish history1 when ,jehovah's altars were thrown down and his prophets slain1 hither ,elijah invited the priests of ,baal to test by fire the superiority of their respective gods4 ,the priests conceding the existence of ,elijah's ,god1 the contest was to decide whether ,jehovah or ,baal should be the supreme divinity of the land4 ,chastened by the evils of a long drouth1 the people were prepared for a procedure so extraordinary4 ,ahab1 over whom the infamous ,jezebel had gained the ascendency1 was upon the throne of ,israel2 and1 while lost to all the better feelings of woman's nature1 and irreclaimably abandoned to the worst forms of idolatry1 there remained no hope in the case of the queen1 yet such a divine interposition might act for good on the mind of the king4 ,midway the mountain there is an upland plateau1 commanding a view of the entire plain4 ,in this recess there is a noble fountain1 three feet square1 shaded by oaks1 and rising above it is that bold and rocky peak which the prophet's servant ascended to watch the rising cloud4 ,here1 in full view of ,ahab's palace1 the sacrifices were offered4 ,from the loose rocks that here abound were taken the stones to build the altars4 ,from these forests was hewn the wood on which the offerings were placed4 ,from this mountain spring1 either miraculously preserved from becoming dry during the long drouth1 or created by a divine power for the occasion1 were drawn the twelve barrels of water to fill the trench around the altar of ,elijah4 ,from the pasture-fields below1 up these slopes1 came the bullocks to be sacrificed2 while1 covering the gentle declivities1 and extending in vast concentric circles to the plain beneath1 and clinging to every crag and tree above1 the people were gathered to witness the most interesting of all sacrificial scenes4 ,around their altar stood the king and priests of ,baal1 while1 wrapped in his mantle1 ,elijah stood alone4 ,from morning till noon1 and thence till evening1 the prophets of idolatry implored their god in vain4 ,with an irony that was biting as it was confusing1 the prophet of ,tishbe urged them to cry aloud4 ,it was the dawn of his triumph4 ,sublime in his simplicity and strong in his isolation1 ,elijah invited the people near4 ,repairing the ,lord's altar1 he prepared the sacrifice1 and1 in answer to a prayer no less brief than fervent1 the fire descended and the sacrifice was consumed1 amid the acclamations of the people1 8,the ,lord1 he is the ,god60 ,as the defamers of religion and the enemies of ,god and man1 the priests of ,baal were led down to the banks of the ,kishon1 from which they had so recently come in such pomp1 and were slain4 ,ahab and ,elijah reascended the ,mount1 the former to eat and drink1 the latter to pray4 ,hearing1 in his prophetic ear1 the sound of abundance of rain1 ,elijah sent his servant up to the loftiest of the mountain peaks to watch the rising cloud from the bosom of the sea4 ,the heavens grew dark1 the rain began to fall2 and in fear lest the ,kishon might not be fordable1 ,ahab was commanded to hasten to his palace2 while1 careless of his age1 and in the spirit of a loyal subject to a king whom he had humbled in the presence of his people1 ,elijah girded up his loins1 and ran before the chariot of ,ahab to the entrance of ,jezreel4#eai ,consecrated by an event so remarkable1 ,carmel subsequently became the abode of ,elisha4 ,it was while looking down1 one afternoon1 upon this same great plain he saw the 8woman of ,shunem0 coming in behalf of her only son4 ,he sent ,gehazi to inquire the object of her visit2 but she passed him by1 and1 pressing up this hill1 laid her complaint before him4 ,descending from his mountain retreat1 he hastened to her home of sorrow and restored her child to life4#ebj ,in after years ,carmel was regarded with a superstitious veneration even by the learned heathen4 ,here ,pythagoras passed some time in solitary meditations1 and hither ,vespasian came to consult the oracle which became so famous4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,plains of ,palestine4 ,no ,farm-houses4 ,great ,plain of ,esdraelon4 ,its ,fertility4 ,topography4 ,river ,kishon4 ,world's ,battle-field4 ,waters of ,megiddo4 ,deborah and her ,victory4 ,jeneen4 ,bethshean4 ,encampment4 ,modern ,sheikhs and ancient ,patriarchs4 ,city of ,ruins4 ,jabesh ,gilead4 ,pella4 ,gideon's ,fountain4 ,mount ,gilboa4 ,battles4 ,jezreel4 ,napoleon and the ,turks4 ,shunem4 ,nain4 ,endor4 ,witch's ,cave4 ,saul and ,samuel4 ,witches4 ,mount ,tabor4 ,its ,form4 ,woods4 ,view4 ,misnomer4 ,transfiguration4 ,it occurred at ,night4 ,argument4 ,benighted ,party4 ,,there are two classes of plains in ,palestinethose upon the sea-board1 as the ,plains of ,philistia1 ,sharon1 and ,phnicia1 and those of the interior1 as the ,plains of ,rephaim1 ,jericho1 ,el-,mukhna1 the ,buk'a1 and ,esdraelon4 ,they differ from each other chiefly in location1 the former being maritime1 and consequently more or less affected by the action of the sea2 the latter being inland1 and subject to the influences of the lofty mountains by which they are encompassed4 ,though equally beautiful1 fertile1 and historically important1 yet at present those upon the coast are less cultivated and less inhabited than the others1 as the wild ,bedouins1 dreading the sea1 prefer to pitch their tents in the interior4 ,nothing evinces the degeneracy of the ,syrian ,arabs more than the neglect of these vast garden-plains4 ,perhaps it is not so much a proof of their degeneracy1 as the ,turk in ,syria has never been otherwise than what he now isindolent as he is overbearing1 the enemy of all improvements1 and the destroyer of whatever is elegant in architecture or beneficial in good government4 ,the proverbial richness of the soil of ,palestine is evinced by the abundance of grain annually raised at the expense of the least possible labor4 ,without ever receiving1 the land is ever giving4 ,the superficial process of plowing resembles our mode of dragging1 and the application of mineral and other kinds of manure is a thing unknown4 ,one often and heartily desires to see an ,american farmer occupying these noble plains1 with his enlightened views of agriculture and his improved implements of husbandry4 ,what golden harvests1 in more senses than one1 would repay his toil6 ,he would realize the prophetic blessings pronounced on ,asher1 8,his bread shall be fat1 and he shall yield royal dainties40 ,the custom of dwelling in villages1 and not upon the land cultivated1 is fatal to the thorough development of the natural resources of any country4 ,you may travel for miles through the richest portions of ,palestine without seeing a human habitation4 ,in going from ,etham to ,hebron1 a distance of #ae miles1 and through a fertile region1 we failed to see a single dwelling1 though occasionally we observed a small village perched on a mountain top4 ,the traveler never meets with the clean1 comfortable farm-house so common in the agricultural districts of ,america4 ,here the people dwell in towns1 and there is a matter-of-fact meaning in the ,savior's words1 8,a sower went forth to sow40 ,if we except its eastern branches1 there is not a single inhabited dwelling on the whole ,plain of ,esdraelon1 and not more than one sixth of its soil is cultivated4 ,occasionally are seen the black tents of the nomadic ,bedouin1 who1 despoiler-like1 feeds his flocks till the crop is exhausted1 and then removes to another section of rich pasturage1 or1 mounted on his fleet steed1 scours the plain in search of plunder4 ,whether considered as to the extent of its area1 the fertility of its soil1 the beauty of its scenery1 or the political and religious importance of its history1 the ,plain of ,esdraelon is the first of inland plains4 ,the southern frontier of ,zebulon1 it fell to the lot of ,issachar1 8who saw that rest was good1 and the land that it was pleasant20 and1 rather than abandon his possession1 8he bowed his shoulder to bear1 and became a servant unto tribute40#eba ,extending from the ,mediterranean to the ,jordan ,valley1 it is not unlike a vast rent in the heart of the land4 ,resembling in form an irregular triangle1 its base extends a distance of #ae miles from ,jenn to the mountains below ,nazareth2 and with one side measuring #ab miles long1 formed by the ,hills of ,galilee1 the other runs along the ,samarian range a distance of #ah miles4 ,serving as the channel-bed of the ancient ,kishon1 its apex is a narrow pass half a mile wide1 opening into the ,plain of ',akka4 ,from its base three arms branch out toward the east1 divided by ,gilboa and ,little ,hermon4 ,with ,tabor on one side and ,little ,hermon on the other1 the northern branch has ,nain and ,endor on its southern border1 and was the path taken by the troops of ,deborah and ,barak when on their way to the battle of ,megiddo4 ,lying between ,gilboa and ,jenn1 the southern branch terminates among the hills to the eastward4 ,but1 excelling the others in extent and richness1 the great central branch descends in green and gentle slopes to the banks of the ,jordan1 having ,jezreel on the south and ,shunem on the north1 and is known in ,scripture as the 8,valley of ,jezreel10 where ,gideon triumphed1 and ,saul and his sons were slain4 ,having its most distant perennial source in the great fountain of ,jenn1 the famous river ,kishon flows through this plain in a northwesterly direction1 and pours its brackish waters into the sea4 ,called by the ,arabs ,nakr el-,mukuttah1 it is ordinarily a clear and rapid stream1 lined on either side with flowers and dense shrubbery4 ,increased in the rainy season by numberless mountain torrents1 and by springs from the base of ,carmel and from the bases of the ,hills of ,nazareth1 it varies in depth from four to eight feet1 and from #aj to #dj in width4 ,it is evident that it must have been swollen by some extraordinary means to have swept away the fugitive army of ,jabin4 8,the stars in their courses fought against ,sisera0 may indicate a tremendous storm that swept over mountain and plain1 sending down torrents of water from the mountain streams1 overflowing the steep banks of the ,kishon1 and sweeping on to the sea with irresistible force1 bearing on its rapid current the routed foe1 who1 in the confusion of defeat and flight1 had become entangled in the dense thickets that line its banks4 ,but the significance of ,esdraelon is its marked history4 ,it is the battle-field of nations4 ,the hosts of ,israel and the wild tribes of the ancient ,canaanites have met in death-grapple upon its soil1 and in later times the powerful armies of ,europe contended on the fields of ,el-,fleh with the barbarous hordes of the ,orient4 ,here ,deborah and ,barak marshaled their hosts against ,sisera2 here ,gideon encountered the ,midianites2 here the ,philistines fought against ,saul and ,jonathan2 here ,benhadad put the battle in array against ,ahab2 here ,jehu slew ,ahaziah and ,joram2 here the knights of medival times grappled with the soldiers of the ,crescent1 and ,napoleon and ,kleber led their splendid columns against the relentless ,turks4 ,it was a memorable day when we traversed this plain1 recalling the clamor of war1 and in fancy beholding the onset1 the retreat1 and fierce pursuit of mighty armies4 ,and equally gratified were we that those scenes of death are past1 and that flowers now bloom and harvests ripen where belligerent hosts once fought4 ,descending from the heights of ,carmel1 we followed a winding path through wooded dells to the southwest corner of ,esdraelon1 and in half an hour reached ,wady el-,mlhor1 8,the ,salt ,valley10 which forms the boundary-line between ,carmel and the ,mountains of ,samaria4 ,up this ravine the ,french marched in #agii to attack ,ramleh4 ,fording the ,kishon1 our path lay along the base of the ,samarian ,hills1 which are furrowed by deep gorges1 eleven of which are the channels of as many streamlets flowing into the sacred river4 ,seven miles beyond is the battle-field of ,megiddo4 ,here1 sweeping along the base of a high mound1 are the 8waters of ,megiddo10 running northward into the ,kishon4 ,on the banks of this stream is the scene of that great battle between ,barak and ,sisera4 ,roused by the call of a woman1 the former had assembled the northern tribes of ,israel on the summit of ,tabor1 where he was joined by ,deborah1 who led to the fight the tribes of ,central ,palestine4 ,choosing ,taanach as his rallying-point1 the latter had concentrated his host with #ijj iron chariots4 ,approaching from different points of the plain1 the contending foes met hard by the 8waters of ,megiddo40 ,then it was that 8the stars in their courses fought against ,sisera10 as at that moment a storm of sleet and hail gathered from the east1 and1 bursting over the plain in the face of the advancing ,canaanites1 threw them into confusion1 and 8the torrent swept them away40#ebb ,springing from his chariot1 ,sisera fled on foot into the neighboring mountains1 where the nail of ,jael awaited him who had escaped the sword of ,barak4 ,then1 in the moment of triumph1 ,deborah sang her wondrous song4#ebc ,six centuries later1 here ,josiah1 king of ,judah1 fought against ,pharaoh-necho of ,egypt1 who was advancing to attack the ,king of ,assyria1 and here1 in the 8,valley of ,megiddo1 the archers shot at ,king ,josiah1 and he said1 ,have me away1 for ,i am sore wounded40#ebd ,following the southern border of ,esdraelon1 we reached ,jeneen at sundown1 where we encamped for the night upon its beautiful lawn4 ,taking an ,arab guide1 we started the next morning for the ,beisn of the ,arabs1 the ,scythopolis of the ,romans1 and the ,bethshean of the ,bible1 on whose ancient walls the dead bodies of ,saul and ,jonathan were fastened after the fatal battle of ,gilboa4 ,our path lay up a low ridge of limestone hills which overhung the valley of the ,jordan on the west1 and1 crossing the summit1 we descended to a noble plain1 well watered1 overgrown with rank weeds and briers1 and dotted with the black tents of wandering ,bedouins4 ,pausing for a moment1 we examined1 as far as modesty and safety would allow1 the encampment of these nomads4 ,around their tents flocks and herds were grazing1 watched by the faithful dog and guarded by mounted patrolmen1 who scoured the plain for a mile in circumference1 to discover1 if possible1 the lurking-place of some neighboring plunderer4 ,in an open tent 8two women were grinding at a mill10 while others were kneading bread and spinning flax4 ,every thing about the encampment wore the aspect of a semi-barbarous state1 and the question rose in our minds more than once as to the tent-life of ,abraham and his sons4 ,in many points there is an evident similarity4 ,like the nomads of the present day1 the patriarchs wandered from place to place2 their property consisted of herds of cattle1 and flocks of sheep and goats2 their women1 to whose lot it fell to grind1 spin1 and cook1 occupied separate tents1 as in modern times2 and1 like them1 they were constantly liable to be surprised and plundered2 hence then as now1 all the males went armed for the protection of their property4 ,but here the parallel ends4 ,there is no comparison as to personal excellence1 domestic refinement1 and social dignity4 ,if the words and acts of a man reveal his heart and manifest his condition1 then the history of those venerable patriarchs bespeaks a purity of character1 a refinement of social life1 and a dignity of private and public behavior not unworthy the best state of society in this ,christian age4 ,illustration3 ,,women ,,grinding ,,at ,a ,,mill4 ,illustration3 ,,arab ,,encampment4 ,reaching ,bethshean at noon1 we found a wretched modern village of #ejj ,egyptians1 whom ,ibrahim ,pasha had colonized there to protect his frontier1 but who are now cruelly oppressed by the wild nomads of the ,ghr4 ,the ancient city was one of the strong-holds of ,palestine1 which the ,israelites were never able to take4 ,it lies in the line of the great caravan route from ,damascus to ,egypt1 and is the same traveled by the ,ishmaelites who bought ,joseph4 ,like most of the cities of that distant age1 it was built upon a hill1 with a walled acropolis crowning the summit4 ,increasing in wealth and population1 the limits of the town were extended to the plain below4 ,covering a space of more than three miles in circumference1 the piles of massive ruins which remain no less indicate the strength of the position than the elegance and affluence of the city4 ,the religious temples of ,bethshean were the boast of its citizens1 and1 judging from the number and finish of the remaining marble columns1 they must have equaled in magnificence those of more renowned places4 ,but time has wrought what the marshaled hosts of ,israel could not accomplish4 ,bethshean is a desolation2 its site and environs are covered with acres of thorns and brambles2 the famous ,roman arch1 that spanned the streamlet on the east1 is broken2 the impregnable wall1 upon which the lifeless bodies of ,saul and his sons were suspended in derision1 has fallen2 the proud temples of ,ashtaroth1 that resounded with songs of triumph over the slain1 are no more1 and solitary columns rise up amid weeds and thistles1 like spectres in the silent vales4 ,the only remaining building is the amphitheatre1 having a diameter of #ahj feet4 ,though comparatively well preserved1 with all the interior passages and doors nearly perfect1 it is so overgrown with weeds and lacerating briers that we examined it with the greatest difficulty4 ,from the summit of the acropolis we obtained a view which was as interesting as it was commanding4 ,four hundred feet below us lay the ,valley of the ,jordan4 ,measuring more than three miles in width1 it is every where well watered1 green1 and fertile1 and dotted with thickets of tamarisk4 ,directly opposite rose the ,mountains of ,gilead1 in the side of which stood the town of ,jabesh ,gilead1 whose valiant men1 under cover of the night1 rescued the remains of ,saul and his sons1 and1 recrossing the ,jordan1 interred them in their own town1 beneath a venerable oak4#ebe ,and in the same direction is the site of ancient ,pella1 the first city of refuge under the ,christian dispensation4 ,called by the natives ,tbkat ,fahil1 it is a plateau in the mountain's side #ajjj feet above the ,jordan4 ,more than a mile in length1 it is half a mile in width4 ,the soil is a bright red1 and the terrace is bordered with verdure1 and so singularly formed that the mountains seemed to have receded to give place to the persecuted sons of ,god4 ,on leaving this city of ruins we crossed a stone bridge #ce feet wide and #ge long1 and entered the 8,valley of ,jezreel40 ,it is the central branch of the great plain of ,esdraelon1 and is bounded on the north by ,little ,hermon and on the south by ,mount ,gilboa1 both of which ridges run eastward and overhang the ,jordan valley4 ,this vale is three miles wide1 and through its centre flows the ,jald to the ,jordan1 which is a clear and noble stream4 ,extending from its banks to the base of the hills on either side are fertile fields1 on which1 at intervals of two miles1 were ,arab encampments4 ,to distinguish it from ,mount ,hermon proper1 the ridge on the northern border of this vale is called ,little ,hermon1 having received this appellation from the ecclesiastics of the fourth century1 who erroneously supposed1 from its contiguity to ,mount ,tabor1 that the ,psalmist referred to it in that sublime passage3 8,the north and the south1 thou hast created them2 ,tabor and ,hermon shall rejoice in thy name40#ebf ,shapeless and barren1 it has neither natural beauty nor historical interest4 ,it has its greatest height toward the west1 and its eastern end gradually slopes down into a broad plateau of table-land4 ,but its companion ridge1 known as ,mount ,gilboa1 is at once remarkable for its appearance and its historical associations4 ,it is neither high nor rugged1 but low and rolling4 ,at a distance it appears smooth and shadowy1 but a nearer view reveals the slight gullies that furrow its sides and the bolder ledges projecting from its summit4 ,in its northern base1 less than two miles from ,zer'in1 is the large and famous fountain of ',ain ,jald1 where ,gideon's men evinced their courage by lapping water4 ,without exception1 it is the most beautiful fountain in ,palestine4 ,issuing from two deep caves at the base of ,gilboa1 the limpid water spreads out into a basin of solid rock #ej feet in diameter4 ,the water is clear and delicious4 ,from the sides and tops of the caverns depend trails of fern1 maiden's hair1 and other water-plants4 ,around the border of this basin1 and on the banks of the stream that flows from it1 is ample room where ,gideon's men might have tested and proved their courage4 ,called by the inspired writer 8the ,well of ,harod10 or the 8,spring of ,trembling10 it evidently derives its name from those decisive words of ,jehovah3 8,whosoever is fearful and afraid1 let him return and depart early from ,mount ,gilboa40#ebg ,for centuries this was the rendezvous of many a hostile army4 ,from its pure waters ,gideon crossed the plain at dead of night1 and with his pitchers1 and lights1 and trumpets1 surprised the ,midianites2#ebh and1 years after1 ,saul encamped at the 8,fountain of ,jezreel40#ebi ,clad in disguise1 he descended the southern border of the plain1 and1 crossing ,little ,hermon below ,shunem1 he went to consult the ,witch of ,endor as to the fortunes of the coming day4 ,a little to the northwest from the spring the mighty army of the ,philistines lay encamped before ,shunem1 and when the morning came they descended the gently-sloping plain and began the onset2 and the fierce ,amalekites drove the army of ,saul up the rocky acclivities of ,gilboa1 where1 on the favorite battle-field of the king and his sons1 8,the shield of the mighty was vilely cast away1 even the shield of ,saul1 as though he had not been anointed with oil40#ecj ,in less than half an hour's ride from ',ain ,jald we stood amid the desolations of ,jezreel1 the empire city of ,ahab1 and the residence of his cruel and impious queen4 ,situated on the crest of a low spur projecting into the plain from ,gilboa1 it is but little higher than the plain itself1 except on the north side1 where there is a descent of #ajj feet4 ,twenty miserable huts compose the modern town of ,zer'in1 together with a square antique tower called an 8inn40 ,excepting a few sarcophagi1 with sculptured ornaments and heaps of rubbish1 there is nothing to remind the traveler of the royal city of ,jezreel4 ,here the infatuated ,jezebel planned the destruction of the ,lord's prophet2 and here1 having first accomplished his death1 she confiscated the property of ,naboth1 reserving for her weak-minded husband the long-coveted vineyard4 ,though no sign for its identification remains1 it must have been to the east of her palace1 as the two kings met the relentless ,jehu coming from ,ramoth ,gilead1 which is on the east1 8in the portion of ,naboth40 ,here1 in the conflict that ensued1 ,joram was slain on the spot2 the queen was trampled under the hoofs of ,jehu's horses1 while ,king ,ahab1 hoping to escape by flight over the plain to ,en-gannim1 was overtaken by his pursuers1 and died of his wounds at ,megiddo4#eca ,here all the sad details of the fearful judgments pronounced against the house of ,ahab have been fulfilled1 and1 were it not for the imperishable places around1 it would be impossible to identify the site of ,jezreel1 where ,jezebel held her murderous orgies4 ,three miles to the northwest1 on the direct road to ,nazareth1 stands the tower of ,el-,fleh1 where ,napoleon1 with #cjjj ,frenchmen1 successfully resisted the attack of #cj1jjj ,turks during a period of six hours1 and finally routed his powerful foe4 ,but we had lingered too long on the heights of ,zer'in1 as night had set in1 and we were an hour hunting for our encampment4 ,riding through fields of wheat and barley1 we crossed the ,valley of ,jezreel1 and1 after a journey of three miles1 arrived at the small village of ,shunem1 called by the inhabitants ,slem4 ,though destitute of architectural elegance1 its environs are beautified with large and fruitful gardens4 ,occupying the lower slope of ,little ,hermon1 it consists of a few ,arab huts1 without a single vestige of antiquity4 ,belonging to the tribe of ,issachar1 it was the home of that 8great woman0 who built a 8little chamber on the wall0 for the ,prophet ,elisha1 and here she 8embraced a son0 as a reward for her hospitality1 and received that son from the dead as a farther expression of the divine regard4 ,her house1 with the 8little chamber on the wall10 is gone1 but yonder is the field whither the child of promise 8went to his father to the reapers10 where he received the fatal coup de soleil1 and from which he was carried back to his mother4 ,fifteen miles to the southwest1 but in full view1 is the blue ridge of ,carmel1 where the prophet and his servant ,gehazi lived in solitude1 and over this intervening plain the disconsolate mother rode to lay her complaint before the 8man of ,god10 who1 yielding to entreaties1 returned with her to ,shunem1 and called back the spirit of her departed son4#ecb ,behind the town is the 8,hill of ,moreh10 along the base of which the ,midianites lay when surprised by ,gideon1 and where the ,philistines were encamped the night preceding the battle of ,gilboa4 ,illustration3 ,,jezreel4 ,winding round the western base of ,little ,hermon1 in less than an hour we came to ,nain1 whose name is suggestive of the most tender associations4 ,situated on a low mountain spur1 its dwellings are small and its inhabitants are few4 ,directly opposite1 standing forth in all its beauty1 is ,mount ,tabor1 and rising up beyond1 far away on the horizon1 is the white cone of ,hermon4 ,though fortune has lavished no favor on this quiet hamlet1 yet ,christ has linked its memory with one of his most touching miracles4 ,to the east of the village are tombs in the hill-side1 where the people now1 as of old1 bury their dead4 ,it was probably to one of these ancient sepulchres that his neighbors were bearing the 8young man0 to his burial when ,jesus1 coming from the north1 met the funeral procession1 and in tones of divine compassion sweetly whispered to the disconsolate mother1 8,weep not10 while1 with an authority that knew no barrier1 he touched the bier and commanded1 8,young man1 ,i say unto thee1 ,arise40#ecc ,three miles to the northeast1 located on a rocky acclivity1 is the small village of ,endor4 ,the path thither crosses the northern shoulder of ,jebel ed-,duhy1 and1 entering the ,plain of ,esdraelon1 diverges to the right up the hill on which the town stands4 ,the transition between ,nain and ,endor is too sudden to be pleasant4 ,tender-hearted mothers and beguiling old witches are too unlike to be grouped together in the same picture or visited the same day4 ,endor is a wretched place of #cj huts1 and the noble view afforded from its rocks is the only natural charm of the village4 ,the sides of the hills that rise above it contain many large and curious caves1 some of which are used for human habitations4 ,tradition has designated the most remarkable one of the number as the sibylline home of the famous witch of ,endor4 ,it is a deep and solemn cave4 ,the entrance is guarded by two massive rocks1 between which there is a large fig-tree1 imparting an air of secrecy to the spot4 ,within the cavern is a spring of crystal water1 and from the rocks above and on either side trails of maiden's hair depend like curtains of ,mechlin lace4 ,from its inner chambers come deep and mournful echoes1 and the alternate light and darkness within gives to the cave an air of witchery4 ,placed under the ban of the kingdom1 with a price set upon her head1 it is not unreasonable that the ,pythoness of ,endor should have sought a retreat so difficult of access in which to perform her necromantic feats4 ,celebrated for her skill1 it was to her the troubled ,saul repaired1 in the darkness of an ever-memorable night and in the disguise of a peasant1 to revive1 if possible1 his broken spirit by hopeful disclosures of the coming day4 ,with a duplicity only equaled by her depravity1 she evoked the venerable ,samuel4 ,not in obedience to her call1 but to forewarn the heart-broken king1 the venerable prophet1 8covered with a mantle10 appeared1 and announced with more than ,delphic authority1 8,to-morrow shalt thou and thy sons be with me40#ecd ,illustration3 ,,nain4 ,the witch of ,endor has left to her female descendants the impress of her brazen-facedness4 ,there is an archness in their countenances and a boldness in their behavior not characteristic of woman in any other part of ,palestine4 ,mounting a horse like a man1 they ride with a swiftness and daring hardly excelled even by the plundering ,bedouin4 ,destitute of all those finer virtues which belong to ,christian womanhood1 they are as vicious as they are uncouth4 ,not suspecting their honesty1 ,i had left a leather pouch upon the ground which contained many valuables while ,i pressed a few ferns from the sibyl's cave4 ,returning to the spot1 it was gone4 ,all swore by the beard of the ,prophet they had not seen it4 ,threats made no impression upon their fears1 and they smiled in scorn at being reported to the ,pasha4 ,in a moment the town was aroused1 and our threats were returned with a shower of stones2 but1 revolver in hand1 we commenced the search of every hovel4 ,descending a narrow pass in the rocks1 ,i saw a woman standing in the mouth of a cave whose countenance excited my suspicion1 and1 offering her a baksheesh1 she drew from the ample folds of her bosom the stolen pouch1 with a shamelessness not unworthy ,endor's elder witch4 ,three miles to the north1 diagonally across the northern branch of ,esdraelon1 stands the ,mount of ,transfiguration4 ,whether considered for its natural beauty or as the scene of many thrilling historic events1 ,tabor is second only to ,olivet in religious interest among all the sacred mountains4 ,separated from the surrounding hills except on the northwest1 it stands out alone1 having its base swept by the magnificent ,plain of ,esdraelon4 ,its shape changing with the stand-point of the beholder1 it is not easy to define its graceful form4 ,having seen it from every point of the compass1 its variant forms added not a little to my impressions of its extraordinary beauty4 ,viewed from the ,heights of ,carmel1 it resembled a truncated cone2 seen from the northern ,hills of ,galilee1 it reminded me of the ,pyramids of ,egypt2 from the ,mountains of ,samaria it appeared like the segment of a great circle2 while from the summit of ,jebel ed-,duhy and from the plain below it was not unlike a terraced mound or woodland park4 ,more than two thirds of its sides on the east and north1 up to its very summit1 are covered with noble oaks and beautiful terebinths1 not densely like a forest1 but with open glades between oaken groves1 adorned with grass1 and strewn with pheasant-eyes1 anemones1 and amaranths4 ,its summit is an oblong area half a mile long and a quarter wide1 broken into charming vales and hillocks1 enhancing the delights of the spot4 ,in ascending to the top the path resembled the threads of a screw1 winding in gentle acclivities up to the highest peak4 ,now it led through groves of terebinths1 now over flowery beds1 now verging on the edge of a bold precipice1 now entering dells sombre with the thick foliage of stately oaks1 and anon opening into glades where the grass was green and the flowers fragrant4 ,though the heat was intense without1 the path was so smooth and shady that we gained the loftiest point in less than an hour1 where we were refreshed alike by the unbroken silence of the scene and the unrivaled glory of the view4 ,illustration3 ,,mount ,,tabor4 ,tabor rises #bjjj feet above the level of the sea1 and the prospect from its summit is one of extraordinary grandeur4 ,the eye sweeps over the ,mountains of ,samaria1 the long ridge of ,carmel1 the ,bay of ,haifa1 the ,plain of ',akka1 the ,hills of ,galilee1 the lofty peak of ,safed1 the 8,horns of ,hattn10 the majestic form of ,hermon1 the gray walls of ,moab1 the dark line of verdure defining the banks of the ,jordan1 while nearer are the slopes of ,gilboa1 the rocks of ,duhy1 and the glorious ,plain of ,esdraelon1 like one unbroken sea of verdure1 with its borders dotted with the hamlets of ,jezreel1 ,el-,fuleh1 ,shunem1 ,nain1 and ,endor4 ,and no less significant is the thrilling history of ,tabor4 ,tabor was the northern boundary-line of the tribe of ,issachar2#ece here the heroic ,deborah and ,barak assembled the children of ,zebulon and ,naphtali to fight against ,sisera2#ecf years later it was the rendezvous of the brothers of ,gideon8each one resembled the children of a king0whom ,zebah and ,zalmunna slew2#ecg and at a later period it became the scene of ,israel's idolatry1 whose priests ,hosea denounces for having 8been a snare on ,mizpah and a net spread on ,tabor40#ech ,bold in its outline and firm upon its everlasting base1 the inspired writers chose it as a symbol of glory8,tabor and ,hermon shall rejoice in thy name10#eci and as typical of the ,lord's unchangeable word1 8,surely as ,tabor is among the mountains1 and as ,carmel is by the sea1 so shall ,pharaoh come40#edj ,naturally one of the strong-holds of the land and the key of the plain1 it became in our own era the head-quarters of ,josephus1 as it had been in the year #bah ,b4,c4 the strong-hold of ,antiochus the ,great4 ,but there is one historic honor which does not belong to ,tabor1 and1 if it did1 would not enhance the glory of its associations4 ,proverbial for the application of real or fancied names to the scenes of the great events in their martial annals1 and ever fond of a high-sounding name1 the ,french have designated the conflict which occurred on the ,plains of ,el-,fuleh as the 8,battle of ,mount ,tabor40 ,but as the village of ,el-,fuleh1 where ,kleber met the advanced guard of the ,turks1 and which afterward became the central point of attack1 is ten miles to the southeast from ,tabor1 with equal propriety it might have been called the battle of ,mount ,carmel1 and with greater consistency the battle of ,mount ,gilboa4 ,the simple fact of ,napoleon's army coming from ,nazareth and sweeping round the northeastern base of ,tabor is not sufficient to justify the misnomer1 nor warrant the application of the name of this most sacred of 8mountains0 to a battle fought by a chieftain who had invaded the ,holy ,land on an ambitious crusade4 ,but the glory of ,tabor is the transfiguration of our ,lord4 ,anxiously ,i sought to identify the spot of that wondrous scene1 that ,i might look up into the same serene heavens from which came the voice of approval1 and in which appeared ,moses and ,elias4 ,high up on the northern slopes1 far away from the ruins of the ancient village1 is a lovely glade1 inclosed with oaks and adorned with flowers4 ,shut in from the world1 all nature breathes a sense of repose1 and a holy quiet reigns within undisturbed4 ,the view of the blue skies is unobstructed1 and here in the 8stilly night10 watched only by the stars1 the ,son of ,god held converse with ,moses and ,elias touching 8his decease which he should accomplish at ,jerusalem20 and1 as a pre-intimation of his glorified body after his ascension1 8the fashion of his body was altered1 and his raiment was white and glistening40 ,for nearly sixteen centuries ,tabor has been regarded as the veritable scene of this great event1 and not till within a few years has its claim been called in question4 ,the chief argument against this venerable tradition is drawn from the itinerary of the ,evangelists1 in which ,csarea ,philippi is mentioned as the last place where ,christ had taught previous to his transfiguration4 ,it has been suggested that the probable scene of the event is somewhere on the southern ridge of ,hermon4 ,more than once1 while on its noble summit1 ,i had occasion to regret that the doubt of its identity had been suggested to my mind1 and the more so as the author of the suggestion had nothing better to offer2 but the examination which ,i felt compelled to make not only removed all reasonable doubts1 but1 proving entirely satisfactory1 confirmed the impression of earlier years1 and added to the joy of the moment4 ,if our ,lord had been transfigured immediately or on the next day after the conversation with his disciples touching men's opinions as to himself1 there would be some force in the objection2 but two of the evangelists inform us that the event occurred six days#eda after this conversation1 and ,st4 ,luke assures us it took place 8about eight days after these sayings40#edb ,the distance between ,csarea ,philippi and the summit of ,tabor is less than #ah hours1 or less than #ed miles1 which1 on foot or otherwise1 can be accomplished in less than three days1 thus giving sufficient time for the journey between the two places4 ,and it is a fact equally significant1 that immediately after our ,lord had been transfigured we find him in the vicinity of ,tabor at ,capernaum1 which is but #ba miles over an excellent road to the northeast2 thence crossing the ,jordan at the head of the lake1 8he departed from ,galilee1 and came into the coasts of ,judea beyond ,jordan20#edc all of which is consistent with the location of the several places in leaving ,mount ,tabor for the north1 but which would not be true if our ,lord came southward from the slopes of ,hermon4 ,it has also been objected that1 from the days of ,joshua to the time of ,antiochus the ,great1 ,tabor has been an inhabited mountain1 and1 as such1 would have been inappropriate for the retirement of ,christ and his three disciples2 but history simply intimates that during fifteen centuries the mount had been the rendezvous of belligerent armies1 and that1 in process of time1 its summit was fortified2 but in the times of ,josephus the defenses had fallen into decay1 and he caused them to be rebuilt about thirty years subsequent to our ,lord's ascension4 ,if inhabited at all when ,christ ascended its verdant slopes1 it was only by a few wretched villagers1 such as may be seen in their mud huts1 or clinging to ancient ruins in other parts of ,palestine2 and1 though its summit were inhabited1 yet1 owing to the peculiar configuration of the mount1 its high northern acclivities are singularly retired4 ,it is a remarkable fact1 that1 though accustomed to withdraw from the world for meditation and prayer1 ,christ never chose a 8howling wilderness0 as the place of his devotion1 but always an inhabited mountain4 ,even the ,mount of ,olives1 rendered doubly sacred by the frequency of his presence1 was in his day1 as now1 a populous mountain1 but in some of its wooded dells was his bower of prayer4 ,jesus sought the haunts of men1 and1 like a great warrior sleeping in the midst of his camp1 he was ever with his people4 ,st4 ,luke more than intimates that the transfiguration occurred during the darkness and silence of the night4 ,referring to the miracle wrought immediately after the descent1 he states1 8,and it came to pass1 that on the next day1 when they were come down from the hill1 much people met him40#edd ,such an hour for the display of the divine majesty was singularly appropriate4 ,during the day he would have been subject to intrusion from wandering shepherds and strolling hunters on any mountain in ,palestine2 but under the cover of the night he would have been unmolested by either1 as the former are stationary in the midst of their flocks at that time1 and the latter are unable to pursue their vocation4 ,if the vision transpired in the daytime1 why were the disciples overcome with sleep8 ,the suggestion of ,peter to build three tabernacles or booths1 or provide some temporary shelter made of branches of trees1 according to a custom still prevalent in the ,east1 is more than an intimation that night had overtaken them1 and1 supposing their heavenly guests would tarry with them1 they desired to shelter them from the dews of the night4 ,it was two o'clock on ,saturday afternoon when we left the small village of ,debrieh1 at the base of ,mount ,tabor1 for the ,sea of ,galilee4 ,riding up a fruitful valley1 in an hour we came to a branching roadone branch leading directly to ,tiberias1 and the other to the mouth of the ,jordan4 ,either from ignorance or villainy1 an ,arab directed us to follow the latter path1 which caused us to be benighted1 and greatly endangered our safety4 ,the mistake1 however1 was to our advantage in the end1 as we passed through a tract of country rarely visited by travelers1 owing to the turbulent and thievish character of the population4 ,turning eastward1 the path lay along the crest of a mountain ridge1 where the peasantry of both sexes were engaged in husbandry4 ,occasionally we passed the extensive ruins of unknown towns1 and now and then entered villages remarkable only for their wretchedness and filth4 ,whether to display their horsemanship or test our courage1 three mounted ,arabs1 armed with ,bedouin swords1 pistols1 and lances #bj feet long1 issued from one of those miserable hamlets1 and1 singing a war-song1 dashed by us at a furious speed1 when1 suddenly wheeling1 with their lances leveled at our breasts1 they rushed toward us as if to plunge us through4 ,finding their equestrian feats neither awakened our fears nor inspired our admiration1 they returned to their village and allowed us to pursue our unfrequented path4 ,from the summit of the mountain we were crossing we gained a noble view of the ,vale of ,tiberias and its circlet of green hills4 ,cheered by the prospect of reaching our destination at an early hour1 we rapidly descended #ajjj feet into the wild gorge of ,fejas1 flanked by lofty mountains1 and followed the banks of a beautiful stream lined with shrubbery and gorgeous oleanders4 ,charmed with the surrounding scenery1 and confiding in our ,arab guide1 we passed the hours happily1 nor were our suspicions aroused that we had been misdirected till it was too late to retrace our steps4 ,referring to our maps1 we found ourselves in the wild and uninhabited ,vale of ,fejas1 which terminates in the valley of the ,jordan1 #aj miles to the south from ,tiberias4 ,straining our eyes1 as we wound round each jutting cliff1 to catch a glimpse through the opening hills of the vale we had seen from the heights above1 at length1 in the dusk of the evening1 we reached the upper terraces of the ,jordan4 ,under other circumstances we would have surveyed the new landscape with delight2 but we were now benighted1 miles from a human habitation1 in a country notorious for its robberies1 and with skies already black with the coming storm4 ,closing up together so as to form a circle with our horses1 we held a council1 and discussed the question of advancing or encamping for the night4 ,far to the east1 beyond the rushing river1 we could discover1 by its faint lights1 the solitary village of ,kantir1 but were not near enough to reach it before we should be overtaken by the darkness and the storm4 ,tiberias was #aj miles to the north2 night was now upon us2 the skies were cloudy2 the rain began to fall2 the path to the ancient capital of ,galilee was unknown1 and we were without a guide4 ,against remaining where we were were the serious facts that our cuisine was empty1 and we were without provender for our mules and horses4 ,deciding to proceed1 we forded several torrents1 and1 on ascending a broad upland plateau1 in the darkness of the hour plunged into a marsh1 into which our horses sank to their haunches4 ,crossing a barley-field which had been reaped1 we met two mounted ,arabs1 whom we understood to say that ,tiberias was but half an hour to the north4 ,cheered by the good news1 we urged on our jaded beasts to their utmost speed1 now stumbling over rocks1 now floundering in the soft1 marshy soil4 ,but1 as we advanced1 the darkness increased2 each friendly star had withdrawn its guiding ray1 and the rain fell in torrents4 ,part of the company made directly for the shore1 while two of us continued on the upland to report the first glimmer of the distant lights of ,tiberias4 ,onward we rode2 the hours dragged heavily by4 ,near midnight the clouds dispersed1 and familiar stars came out one by one1 and looked softly down upon the lost and weary travelers4 ,the beautiful lake lay quietly in its mountain bed1 and the repose of night rested on all nature1 undisturbed save by the rippling wave breaking faintly on the pebbled shore1 or the sudden leap of the jackal or flight of the stork1 startled by the sound of our coming4 ,beguiling the weary hours by the recollections of the past1 hunger and fatigue were forgotten as the visions of other years rose up before my mind1 and1 by the realization of a sublime faith1 ,i beheld the ,redeemer treading the troubled bosom of ,gennesaret in the darkness and storm of night1 as in the days of old4 ,it was now past midnight2 we had failed to reach ,tiberias2 we knew not the distance to be traveled2 and1 determining to encamp1 we pitched our tents upon the sandy beach1 tethered our hungry horses1 and1 contenting ourselves with a little rice and mish-mish1 we laid down to fitful slumber4 ,the peaceful ,sabbath dawned without a cloud4 ,while yet the night struggled with the morn1 ,i ascended a bold bluff1 commanding a glorious view4 ,the skies were soft and warm2 the mellow light of day lined the east2 the sea was placid as an embowered lake1 and the surrounding hills were yet dreamy with the haze of night4 ,the impressions of that hour were as hallowed as their memory is imperishable4 ,it was the first time1 by the light of day1 that ,i looked upon that most sacred of lakes4 ,returning to the tent1 we learned1 to our happy surprise1 from a passing ,arab1 that we were within half an hour's ride of ,tiberias4 ,compelled by the necessities of the case1 we passed quietly up the coast and encamped within the walls of the ancient city just as the ,jewish population1 attired in their most costly robes1 were hastening to their devotions around the sepulchres of their fathers4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,jerusalem and ,capernaum the great ,centres of our ,lord's ,ministry4 ,christ a limited ,traveler4 ,judea and ,galilee contrasted4 ,provinces of ,galilee4 ,the ,herods4 ,meaning of ,galilee4 ,sea of ,galilee4 ,its ,characteristics4 ,hallowed ,associations4 ,imperial ,city of ,tiberias4 ,founded by ,herod ,antipas4 ,his ,crimes4 ,john the ,baptist4 ,it became a ,jewish ,city and the ,metropolis of the ,race4 ,home of eminent ,scholars4 ,now an ,arab ,town4 ,citizens4 ,miraculous ,draught of ,fishes4 ,jesus never visited it4 ,warm ,baths of ,tiberias4 ,site of ,tarichea4 ,naval ,engagement4 ,bridge of ,semakh4 ,river ,jarmuk4 ,city of ,gadara4 ,ruins4 ,tombs4 ,not the ,scene of the ,destruction of the ,swine4 ,argument4 ,ruins of ,gamala4 ,near here was the ,scene of the ,miracle4 ,mouth of the ,jordan4 ,bethsaida ,julias4 ,feeding of the ,five ,thousand4 ,our ,lord ,walking on the ,sea4 ,home of ,mary ,magdalene4 ,rich ,plain of ,gennesaret4 ,parables4 ,site of ,capernaum4 ,fountain of the ,fig4 ,thrilling ,history of the ,city as connected with ,christ4 ,the ,woe4 ,desolation4 ,bethsaida4 ,birthplace of ,peter1 ,james1 and ,john4 ,not ,bethsaida ,julias4 ,influence of natural ,scenery upon the ,formation of ,character4 ,chorazin4 ,sudden ,gale upon the ,sea4 ,extensive ,remains of the ,city4 ,without an ,inhabitant4 ,upper ,jordan4 ,waters of ,merom4 ,tell el-,kdy4 ,city of ,dan4 ,its ,fountain4 ,csarea ,philippi4 ,town of ,hasbeiya4 ,fountain4 ,highest perennial ,source of the ,jordan4 ,mount ,hermon4 ,vast and grand ,prospect from its lofty ,summit4 ,scriptural ,allusions4 8,valley of the ,pigeons40 ,sublime ,ravine4 ,mount of ,beatitudes4 ,battle of ,hattin4 ,defeat of the ,crusaders4 ,triumph of ,saladin4 ,route to ,nazareth4 ,its authentic ,history is not older than the ,christian ,era4 ,its ,valley and ,mountains4 ,population4 ,schools4 ,legendary ,sites4 ,scene of the ,annunciation4 ,house and ,shop of ,joseph4 ,pictures4 ,fountain4 ,beautiful ,girls of ,nazareth4 ,mount of ,precipitation4 ,true ,mount4 ,view4 ,scene of our ,lord's ,childhood and ,manhood4 ,,galilee and ,judea share the mutual honor of having been the principal spheres of our ,lord's public life4 ,indeed1 those spheres may be reduced to two central points1 ,jerusalem and ,capernaum4 ,occasionally we trace his footsteps to the ,mediterranean8to the coasts of ,tyre and ,sidon0 in the west1 and among the mountains of ,gilead1 beyond the ,jordan1 on the east2 but it is an extraordinary fact that he never went south of ,jerusalem1 not even to the city that gave him birth1 and only as far north as ,csarea ,philippi4 ,though a limited and infrequent traveler1 he chose the great centres of life in which to unfold the doctrines he came to announce1 and to perform the miracles he offered to mankind in attestation of his divine mission4 ,as the scene of his death1 resurrection1 and ascension1 ,jerusalem will ever stand pre-eminent in ,christian affection2 but ,capernaum will ever be memorable as the city of his adoption after his rejection by the ungrateful ,nazarenes4 ,spending most of his public life on the shores of the ,galilean ,sea1 he called his apostles from the fisheries of ,gennesaret2 from its teeming population he founded his infant ,church2 among its inhabitants he performed his grandest miracles2 to them he delivered his most impressive parables2 and overhanging the sea is the 8,mount of ,beatitudes10 the pulpit from which he preached his incomparable 8sermon on the mount40 ,in contrast to the cruel treatment he received in ,judea1 the ,galileans ever welcomed him to their cities1 and 8great multitudes followed him whithersoever he went40 ,and after the lapse of so many centuries1 it is while passing through a region of associations and memories so hallowed that the traveler of to-day realizes the presence of the ,lord more than in other parts of the ,holy ,land4 ,at the death of ,herod the ,great his kingdom was divided into three parts1 over which his sons reigned4 ,with his accustomed precision and accuracy1 ,st4 ,luke not only recognizes this historic fact1 but defines the territory of each division4#ede ,to ,archelaus was assigned ,idumea1 ,judea1 and ,samaria1 which embraced all that portion of ,palestine from the ,jordan to the ,mediterranean1 and from ,beersheba to the northern border of ,esdraelon4 ,ancient ,idumea included that district of country lying south of ,judea1 and extending from the southern end of the ,dead ,sea to the ,gulf of ,akabah2 but the ,idumea of the ,herodian era embraced only the northern section of the ,desert of ,th1 together with several towns of ,southern ,palestine1 with ,hebron as the capital city4 ,though subdued by the warlike ,maccabees1 and by them subjected to the rule of ,jewish prefects1 the ,idumans of this latter period rose to favor under ,csar1 who appointed ,antipater procurator of all ,judea1 and subsequently his son1 ,herod the ,great1 became 8,king of the ,jews40 ,to ,herod ,antipas was allotted all ,galilee1 together with the district of ,perea1 which includes that part of ,palestine east of the ,jordan to ,arabia1 and south of ,pella to ,machaerus1 and which in the ,new ,testament is called the 8coasts of ,judea beyond ,jordan40#edf ,to ,herod ,philip were given ,iturea and ,trachonitis4 ,the former extends from the northern border of ,jauln#edg to the banks of the ,jennny1 and from the eastern base of ,hermon to the great caravan road to ,mecca2 and the latter1 adjoining ,iturea on the east1 includes the lesser provinces of ,batanea1#edh ,gaulonitis1#edi and ,auranitis1 or the modern ,hauran4 ,st4 ,luke also mentions the province of ,abilene1 which is north of ,iturea1 and extends within #ab miles of ,damascus4 8,it originally included ,heliopolis and ,iturea1 with the mountain region lying between10#eej and had ,chalcis as the capital city1 the ruins of which remain4 ,according to ,strabo1 ,ptolemy1 the son of ,menneaus1 was ruler of the province1 who1 after the annexation of ,syria by the ,romans1 continued to hold his possessions till succeeded to the throne by his son ,lysanias4 ,transferring the seat of his government to ,abila1 on the banks of the ancient ,abana1 he reigned till murdered through the artifices of ,cleopatra1 to whom the kingdom was given by ,mark ,antony4 ,subsequently passing into the hands of the tyrant ,zenodorus1 the province ultimately reverted to a descendant of ,lysanias1 bearing the same name1 and who was 8tetrarch of ,abilene40#eea ,the term ,galilee is as old as ,joshua4#eeb ,signifying a 8circle0 or 8circuit10 it was originally applied to the region about ,kadesh1 8a city of refuge40#eec ,in the reign of ,solomon it designated the area containing the twenty cities he gave to ,hiram of ,tyre1 which were afterward known as the 8coasts of ,tyre and ,sidon10 and which1 in the lapse of time1 having become colonized by strangers1 received the name of 8,galilee of the ,gentiles10 or of the 8nations40#eed ,under the jurisdiction of the ,romans1 ,galilee was the designation of all that magnificent region embracing the ancient tribeships of ,issachar1 ,zebulun1 ,asher1 and ,naphtali1 which extended from the ,plain of ,esdraelon to ,mount ,hermon1 and from the ,jordan to the ,mediterranean4 ,according to ,josephus1 this vast section of ,palestine was divided into two parts1 8called the ,upper ,galilee and the ,lower40#eee ,the latter was bounded on the south by a line drawn from ,carmel to ,scythopolis1 and on the north by a line extending from the ,bay of ',akka to ,tiberias1 and the former extended from this latter line on the south to ,hermon on the north1 and from this point westward to the sea4 ,whether considered geographically or historically1 the ,sea of ,tiberias is the most remarkable feature in the physical geography of ,galilee4 ,either from a town upon its ancient shore or from its harp-like shape1 it was early called 8the ,sea of ,chinnereth40#eef ,at later periods it was successively called the 8,sea of ,tiberias10#eeg from the imperial city of that name standing on its western coast2 the 8,sea of ,galilee10#eeh because it belonged to the province of ,galilee2 and1 finally1 the 8,lake of ,gennesaret10 corrupted from ,cinnereth1 the title of a noble plain on its northwestern shore4#eei ,with a depression of #fej feet below the level of the ,mediterranean1 it is #ac miles long1 six wide1 and #afe feet deep4 ,lying in a volcanic basin1 its form is oval and its sides are shelving4 ,unlike the lofty and rugged mountains which encompass the ,scotch and ,italian lakes1 the surrounding hills are neither high nor uniform4 ,on the eastern coast they are steep and barren1 and rise to the height of #bjjj feet2 on the west they are not so lofty1 but smooth1 more sloping1 and are dotted with trees and tufts of grass1 and are furrowed by gentle ravines4 ,at either end the western hills retire1 permitting the ,jordan to enter the sea on the north and to find an exit on the south4 ,the shores are alternately smooth and rocky4 ,the smoother portions are strewn with beautiful shells1 while at intervals the everlasting hills plant their dark feet upon the whitened beach4 ,through an open cliff and between grassy slopes numberless streamlets pour their crystal waters into the sea1 and on their green banks gorgeous oleanders bloom and tropical flowers fill the air with their perfume4 ,the water is clear1 cool1 and sweet1 and abounds with fish1 as in the days of ,bethsaida's fishermen4 ,though it is almost uniformly calm1 there are times when the winds rush down the mountain gorges and up the ,jordan valley1 lashing the placid waters into foam1 and causing the waves to roll high and furiously4 ,its beauty is most apparent in the freshness of the morning1 or amid the golden tints and purple shadows of evening2 or in the sweet repose of a summer's moonlight night1 when the serene skies1 with moon and stars1 are mirrored on its quiet bosom2 or during the solemn grandeur of a thunderstorm1 when the heavens scowl1 the wild winds rage1 the lightning darts through the gloom in bars of fire or in sheets of light1 and along the trembling mountains the thunder rolls responsive to the waves that madly break upon the rock-bound shore4 ,illustration3 ,,tiberias ,,and ,,the ,,sea ,,of ,,galilee4 ,other lakes are more exquisitely beautiful2 others present to the eye loftier forms of grandeur2 but as it is impossible for the mind to dissociate the historical from a scene like this1 so the presence of that ,divine ,one has imparted to the 8,sea of ,galilee0 an unparalleled beauty1 and his divine works have rendered it the most sacred of earthly lakes4 ,on its northwestern shore stood the city of his adoption2 from the deck of one of its fishing-boats he taught the multitude2 over its calm waters he often sailed on a voyage of mercy1 or to a 8desert place0 for prayer2 on its troubled bosom1 as on a pavement of adamant1 he walked in the 8fourth watch of the night20 twice he rose in majesty1 8rebuked the winds10 and said to the waves1 8,peace1 be still20 and on its shores he met his disciples after his passion and resurrection4 ,four miles from the southern end of the lake1 and occupying a plain two miles long and less than half a mile wide1 stands the once imperial city of ,tiberias4 ,though only mentioned by the sacred writers in connection with the sea1 it fills no inconsiderable portion of the political history of ,galilee4 ,whether built upon the site of the ancient city of ,chinnereth or not1 it evidently covers1 in part1 the site of some old town1 as sepulchres of great antiquity are on the sloping plain4 ,coming in possession of ,galilee1 ,herod ,antipas founded the new city1 made it the capital of his kingdom1 and named it after his friend and patron1 the ,emperor ,tiberius4 ,inviting citizens from all parts to take up their residence within its walls1 he granted them extraordinary privileges1 and spared neither art nor treasure to render it worthy of his throne and palace4 ,here1 in the day of his pride and luxury1 he so far forgot the respect due the marriage covenant and the obligations of consanguinity as to marry ,herodias1 his brother ,philip's wife4 ,for an offense so grave and notorious the faithful and courageous ,john the ,baptist reproved the king1 who1 under the pretense of fearing lest ,john might take advantage of his own popularity and instigate a rebellion1 ordered his arrest1 and imprisoned him in the tower of ,machaerus4 ,it was here in his royal palace1 while holding a feast in honor of his birthday1 that ,salome1 the daughter of his incestuous wife1 danced before him1 and pleased him to such a degree that he swore to give her whatever she should ask1 8to the half of his kingdom40 ,influenced by her infamous mother1 ,salome asked for 8,john's head in a charger40 ,bound by his promise1 the king reluctantly yielded1 and dispatching one of his guards1 the noblest and purest of prophets fell a victim to the revenge of a woman smarting under rebuke1 and to the cowardice of a prince whose mortified pride was only excelled by the fears that tormented the dreams of his nights and the vision of his days4 ,whether intentionally or otherwise1 ,josephus has given us the pretense of ,john's death rather than the true cause1 in asserting that ,antipas feared lest he might cause a revolt2 but1 as if half conscious of the injustice he had done the character of so eminent a prophet1 the ,jewish historian tells us that the ,jews attributed the subsequent misfortunes of ,herod to the death of ,john the ,baptist4 ,retributive justice was speedily visited upon the son of ,herod the ,great4 ,having divorced his first wife1 who was the daughter of a celebrated ,arabian prince1 that he might marry ,herodias1 ,aretas1 the father of the divorced wife1 resolved to avenge the affront offered to his daughter1 and declared war against ,herod1 and in a single battle vanquished his ungrateful son-in-law1 and literally destroyed his army4 ,jealous of the prosperity of her brother ,agrippa1 who from a private citizen had become king of ,judea1 ,herodias persuaded ,antipas to visit ,rome and request the same dignity from the ,emperor ,caius4 ,learning of the conspiracy1 ,agrippa anticipated the arrival of his uncle1 and accused ,antipas of conspiracy against ,tiberius1 and asserted that he was then carrying on a correspondence with ,artabanus1 king of ,parthia1 against the ,romans4 ,convinced of the justness of the accusation1 the emperor banished him to ,lyons1 and afterward to ,spain1 where he and his wife ,herodias died in exile4#efj ,tiberias subsequently bore a conspicuous part in the wars which terminated in the destruction of ,jerusalem1 and especially during the command of ,josephus in ,galilee1 who fortified the city2 but it afterward capitulated to the victorious ,vespasian4 ,by this act of voluntary submission ,tiberias escaped destruction1 and remained undisturbed during those commotions ending in the overthrow of the ,jewish commonwealth4 ,regarding it1 with ,hebron1 ,jerusalem1 and ,safed1 as one of their four holiest cities1 it became the chief city of the ,jews after the destruction of their renowned capital2 and1 subsequently to their expulsion from ,judea1 they removed the ,sanhedrim first to ,jamnia1 on the ,plain of ,philistia1 then to ,sefforis1 and finally1 in the middle of the second century1 to ,tiberias1 which for three centuries continued the metropolis of the race4 ,here1 amid those centuries of comparative repose1 the most eminent of rabbins of the nation taught in the synagogues1 and founded a school for the study of their law and language4 ,as the head of this academy1 ,rabbi ,judah collected and committed to writing the great mass of ,jewish traditional law now known as the ,mishnah1 which was completed about the year #bjj ,a4,d4 ,a century later1 ,rabbi ,jochanan here compiled the ,gemara as a supplement and commentary to the former work1 and which is now usually called the ,jerusalem ,talmud4 ,and from the same school1 at a later period1 emanated that critical work called the ,masorah1 at once designed to preserve the purity of the ,hebrew text of the ,old ,testament and of the language in which it was written4#efa ,sharing the fortunes of other ,syrian cities1 ,tiberias is now an ,arab town4 ,occupying a plain on the shore1 formed by the mountains receding1 it is encompassed by a wall #bj feet high1 #ajj rods long1 and #dj wide4 ,describing an irregular parallelogram1 the wall is supported by #aj round towers on the west1 five on the north1 eight on the south1 and three on the east4 ,only one half of the space within the inclosure is occupied by the present population4 ,most of the buildings are small and filthy1 and the streets are neither clean nor straight4 ,the pasha's house and a ,mohammedan mosque are the only edifices worthy of attention4 ,the ,moslems1 who are in the ascendant1 number about #abjj4 ,the ,jews1 who are estimated at #hjj1 have a distinct quarter1 which is in the centre of the town4 ,like those in ,jerusalem1 they are divided into two sectsthe ,sephardim1 who are chiefly from ,northern ,africa and ,spain1 and the ,askenazim1 who are fugitives from ,russia4 ,as a class they are intelligent1 well dressed1 and of more comely appearance than those found in other portions of ,palestine4 ,the young men are athletic and manly in their bearing1 and many of the younger ,jewesses are more than ordinarily beautiful4 ,as we entered the gates of the city at an early hour on a charming ,sabbath morning1 crowds of white-veiled ,jewesses and of venerable ,jews1 with long gray beards1 were slowly winding their way up the mountains that rise steeply behind the city1 to offer their prayers at the sepulchres of ,rabbis ,jochanan1 ,akabi1 ,maimonides1 and others of their ancestors4 ,still looking for the ,messiah1 they entertain a prevalent tradition that he will rise from the sea1 land first in the city of ,tiberias1 and thence proceed to establish his throne on the summit of ,safed1 a lofty and imposing mountain situated #ae miles to the northwest4 ,christianity in ,tiberias is represented by a solitary ,latin monk4 ,on the shore1 to the north of the ,jews' ,quarter1 is a small convent1 traditionally marking the spot where the ,savior met the disciples after his resurrection1 and where was landed the miraculous draught of fishes4#efb ,but1 judging from the silence of all the evangelists1 it is probable our ,lord never visited this renowned city4 ,the population was composed of strangers and slaves1 unto whom he was not sent1 and the city was built in part upon a cemetery1 which1 according to a ,jewish law1 rendered whoever entered therein ceremonially unclean2 therefore the chief object of his mission and the law of ,moses justified him in not entering its gates4 ,it is1 however1 as remarkable as it is inexplicable that ,christ should have spent so much of his public life in the vicinity of this lake1 where he was universally known1 and never have been seen by ,herod ,antipas till they met in ,jerusalem4 ,st4 ,luke informs us that 8,herod the tetrarch heard of all that was done by him1 and he was perplexed1 because that it was said of some that ,john was risen from the dead1 and of some that ,elias had appeared1 and of others that one of the old prophets was risen again4 ,and ,herod said1 ,john have ,i beheaded2 but who is this1 of whom ,i hear such things8 ,and he desired to see him40#efc ,our ,lord having been reared in ,nazareth1 8he belonged unto ,herod's jurisdiction20 and having resided at ,capernaum1 which is less than eight miles to the north from ,tiberias1 he was a 8political subject0 in the tetrarchate of ,antipas4 ,why did not ,herod send for him8 ,but1 knowing the unscrupulous character of the tetrarch and his wife1 together with the reasons assigned above1 the ,savior wisely avoided his presence2 not from fear1 for the pure and exalted nature of the ,redeemer never knew such a base emotion1 but rather to teach his messengers to yield to the storm rather than expose themselves to destruction1 when1 from known circumstances1 the case was evidently hopeless4 ,but the king and the ,savior met at last4 ,the former was a guest1 and the latter a prisoner in ,jerusalem4 ,finding no fault in ,jesus1 but willing to subject him to a more searching trial1 ,pilate 8sent him to ,herod40 8,and when he saw ,jesus he was exceeding glad1 for he was desirous to see him of a long season1 because he had heard many things of him1 and he had hoped to have seen some miracle done by him40 ,too wise and holy to display his power to gratify the curiosity of an unprincipled king1 our ,lord neither performed a miracle nor answered the senseless questions propounded to him by a vain and trifling judge4 ,offended at his silence and majestic bearing1 8,herod and his men of war set him at naught1 and mocked him1 and arrayed him in a gorgeous robe1 and sent him again to ,pilate2 and the same day ,pilate and ,herod were made friends40#efd ,a mile to the south from ,tiberias1 and situated on the shore1 are the 8,warm ,baths of ,emmaus10 consisting of four springs4 ,the water has a temperature of #add ,fahrenheit4 ,it emits a sulphurous smell1 and is exceedingly salt and bitter to the taste4 ,it is considered by the natives efficacious in rheumatic complaints and in cases of debility1 and the baths are visited by invalids from all parts of the country4 ,over one of the springs is a bath-house1 and near the shore is another1 both of which are rapidly going to decay4 ,as we passed1 persons of all ages and of both sexes were applying the medicinal waters1 and some were bathing in water at over #adj ,fahrenheit4 ,three miles to the south of these thermal springs is the site of ancient ,tarichea4 ,here1 on a narrow peninsula formed by the ,river ,jordan as it leaves the lake1 are venerable ruins1 around which are the few huts of the modern town of ,kerak4 ,being a town of considerable importance in the ,jewish wars1 ,tarichea was fortified by ,josephus1 but stormed and taken1 with great slaughter1 by ,titus4 ,having the only large and safe harbor on the whole lake1 the ,jewish chieftain made it his great naval station4 ,with a foresight worthy of better fortunes1 ,josephus here collected #bcj ships1 in which to escape if beaten on land1 or in which to engage the ,romans in naval combat4 ,yielding to the powerful arms of ,titus1 ,tarichea fell1 and the inhabitants took refuge in their ships1 and anchored in the middle of the lake4 ,resolved on the utter destruction of the ,jewish army1 ,vespasian1 who was present1 immediately ordered the construction of a sufficient number of vessels to attack the enemy1 and1 having completed his navy1 he launched his ships and engaged the foe4 ,the engagement was long and sanguinary4 ,the sea was turned into blood1 and on its discolored waters floated the bodies of the dead4 ,not a ,jewish vessel escaped2 and for many days succeeding the fight the shores were strewn with shipwrecks1 and with the swollen forms of the slain4#efe ,thus ended the first and last sea-fight between the ,jews and ,romans4 ,like their mighty empires1 their navies are also destroyed1 and instead of that vast fleet which floated on its bosom1 there is but one boat now upon the ,sea of ,galilee2 and1 excepting a long causeway resting on arches1 through which the water flows into the ,jordan when the lake is high1 there is nothing entire remaining to mark the site of ,tarichea and perpetuate its naval glory4 ,a mile to the southeast from ,jericho is the mouth of the ,jordan1 which is ninety feet wide1 with high rounded banks4 ,less than a mile to the south is the old bridge of ,semakh1 which once spanned the sacred river1 but is now a ruin4 ,near it is the modern ford1 the present highway between the east and west4 ,through shrubberies of hawthorns1 tamarisks1 and oleanders1 the path runs to the small village from which the bridge derives its name4 ,six miles to the south is the ,jarmuk of the ,hebrews and the ,hieromax of the ,greeks1 called by the ,arabs ,mandhr3 it drains the whole plain of the ,haurn and ,jauln1 with a large section of the mountain range eastward4 ,flowing through a wild ravine1 the sides of which are rugged cliffs of basalt #ajj feet high1 it enters the ,jordan four miles below the lake1 and at the point of junction is more than #acj feet wide4 ,during the ,jewish commonwealth it was the boundary between ,bashan and ,gilead1 and during the dominion of the ,romans it defined the limits of the provinces of ,perea and ,gaulonitis4 ,in the gloomy valley through which it flows1 bearing the ,arabic name of ,sheri'at el-,mandhr1 are the famous 8,baths of ,amatha40 ,consisting of eight warm springs1 they were esteemed by the ,romans as second only to those of the ,italian ,bai4 ,around them are clumps of dwarf palms and the remains of arched buildings4 ,the largest of the eight bubbles up into a basin #dj feet in circumference1 and five deep1 which is inclosed by dilapidated walls4 ,the boiling water deposits on the stones a yellow sulphurous crust1 regarded by the natives a sovereign remedy in certain disorders to which their camels are subject4 ,three miles to the south from the banks of the ,jarmuk is the celebrated city of ,gadara4 ,with an authentic history not older than the third century ,b4,c41 it was captured in the year #bah ,b4,c4 by ,antiochus the ,great4 ,regaining possession of it twenty years later1 the ,jews held it till destroyed during their civil wars4 ,to gratify one of his freedmen1 who was a ,gadarene1 it was rebuilt by order of ,pompey1 and during the proconsulate of ,gabinius it was the capital of one of the five districts into which he had divided ,judea4 ,considered one of the most important cities east of the ,jordan1 it was captured by ,vespasian in the first outbreak of the war with the ,jews3 all of its inhabitants were massacred1 and the town itself was reduced to ashes4 ,illustration3 ,,ruins ,,and ,,tombs ,,of ,,gadara4 ,the ruins of a city more significantly reflect its grandeur than the records of the historian or the descriptions of the traveler4 ,gadara is in ruins4 ,occupying a projecting spur at the northwestern extremity of the mountains of ,gilead1 it is bounded on the north by the ,jarmuk1 on the south by the valley of ,el-,arab1 and on the west by the ,jordan4 ,on the crest of the ridge1 covering a space two miles in circumference1 are the remains of the fallen city4 ,on the northern side of the hill there is a theatre1 the seats of which remain entire4 ,near it originally stood one of the great gates of the city1 from which commenced a noble avenue extending through the town1 and flanked on either side by a splendid colonnade4 ,on the western side of the ridge there is another theatre1 the walls1 seats1 and vaulted chambers of which are in good condition4 ,between these two theatres lay the principal part of the city1 on an even piece of ground4 ,but the desolation of ,gadara is complete4 ,neither dwelling1 palace1 nor column remains standing1 and the only work of art1 besides the theatres1 which has come down to our own age well preserved1 is the pavement of the main street1 which is as perfect as when laid down1 and bears distinctly the traces of the chariot wheels which once proudly rolled along this magnificent thoroughfare4 ,whether regarded as works of art or as associated with the history of the ,gospel1 the tombs of ,gadara are replete with interest4 ,excavated in the limestone rock on the east and northeast sides of the hill1 they consist of chambers1 some of which are more than #bj feet square4 ,consisting of massive stone slabs1 ornamented with panels1 many of the doors remain in their places1 and swing upon their hinges with ease1 notwithstanding their great weight4 ,along the hill-side are ancient sarcophagi1 ornamented with sculptured garlands and wreaths1 gods and genii4 ,as in the days of our ,lord1 these tombs are inhabited1 and though not by maniacs1 yet by ,troglodytes1 who at times are no less dangerous to the traveler4 ,when it is remembered that ,gadara is nine miles from the extreme southeastern shore of the ,sea of ,tiberias1 its claim of having been the scene of the ,savior's miracle in curing the maniacs who 8dwelt in the tombs0 may be called in question4 ,the miracle is recorded by three of the evangelists4 ,they all agree as to where the ,savior landed1 viz41 8to the other side20 8over unto the other side of the sea10 8which is over against ,galilee20 that1 on landing1 he was immediately met by the demoniacs2 and that the place was in the country or region of a certain people2 but ,matthew calls this people ,gergesenes1 while ,mark and ,luke call them ,gadarenes4 ,the reconciliation1 however1 is not difficult4 ,either ,gergesa was located near the lake shore1 and under the jurisdiction of the larger city1 ,gadara1 and therefore could be properly described as in the 8country of the ,gadarenes10 or1 as is more probable1 ,st4 ,matthew1 being a resident of this region1 wrote the name correctly1 and wrote it primarily to those who were familiar with all the smaller places of the country1 while ,st4 ,mark and ,st4 ,luke1 who were strangers here1 and who wrote for the benefit of distant ,greek and ,roman readers1 who were only familiar with the well-known district and city of ,gadara1 simply point out the vicinity of the place where the miracle occurred4 ,some eminent critics suppose that1 as the name of the place given by ,st4 ,matthew is variously pronounced ,gergesa1 or ,gerasa1 or ,cehersa1 the close resemblance between ,gergesa and ,gadara led to the substitution of the latter for the former in transcribing the manuscript4#eff ,but1 whatever may have been the cause of the discrepancy1 topographical facts are against ,gadara1 or any of its dependencies1 as having been the scene of the miracle4 ,in addition to the fact that ,gadara is nine miles to the southeast from the sea1 there is no mountain at this point of the shore adapted to the conditions of the miracle4 ,the intervening space between these two points1 even if the last-mentioned difficulty did not exist1 would present an insuperable objection4 ,it would have been a miracle in itself if #bjjj swine had run down the mountain-side for an hour and a half1 then forded the deep ,jarmuk1 and1 having gained the northern bank1 crossed a plain five miles wide before they reached the nearest margin of the sea4 ,and as the scene of the miracle could not have been in the immediate neighborhood of ,gadara1 neither could it have been north of the ,jarmuk1 as the 8country of the ,gadarenes0 lay south of that great river4 ,somewhere midway the lake we must look for the scene of this interesting event4 ,not two miles to the north from the small village of ,semakh is the site of ancient ,hippas1 which was an important place in the days of ,josephus1 and four miles farther on are the ruins of the renowned city of ,gamala4 ,the ridge on which the city stood is not unlike a camel's back1 from which geological formation the town derived its name4 ,so strongly was ,gamala built1 that the younger ,agrippa besieged it seven months in vain1 and it only yielded to the assailants when assaulted by a more powerful army under ,vespasian4 ,four thousand perished by the sword1 and1 rather than surrender themselves captives to the victor1 five thousand other citizens threw themselves from the walls of their city and were dashed to pieces in the deep ravines below4 ,whether this was the city of the ,gergesenes it is impossible to determine with accuracy1 but the topography of the shore1 from ,hippas to ,wady ,semakh1 is in harmony with all the facts of the miracle4 ,here1 in the face of the bold cliffs1 are many ancient tombs1 out of one of which the demoniacs rushed to meet ,jesus the moment the boat touched the shore1 and on the mountain summit1 8a good way off from them1 an herd of swine was feeding40 ,seized with a sudden panic1 the maddened herd rushed headlong down the steep mountain side1 and as there was neither time nor space to arrest their descent on the narrow shelving shore between the base of the cliff and the sea1 they were borne by the velocity of their own motion into the waters and perished4 ,thus1 by a miracle as humane as it was godlike1 our ,lord condemned the vocation of the swineherds of ,gergesa1 and restored to reason and happiness two unfortunate men4#efg ,ten miles north from ,gamala is the mouth of the ,upper ,jordan4 ,the path first runs along a rich plateau1 separating the shell-strewn beach from the base of the hills1 and then passes over a triangular plain of surpassing richness4 ,three miles beyond this rich field the ,jordan enters the ,lake of ,gennesaret4 ,southerly winds have driven up an immense bank of sand before the mouth of the river1 causing the water to flow through a channel some distance from the eastern shore4 ,being #gj feet wide1 the ,jordan is here a lazy1 turbid stream1 flowing between low alluvial banks4 ,droves of buffaloes and herds of cattle were standing in the shallow water1 while along the banks were flocks of sheep and goats4 ,two miles from the mouth of the ,jordan1 and covering a conspicuous hill1 are the remains of ,bethsaida ,julias4 ,originally a small village inhabited by fishermen1 it was enlarged and beautified by 8,philip1 tetrarch of ,iturea and of the region of ,trachonitis10#efh who made it the imperial city of his kingdom1 and called it ,julias in honor of ,julia1 the daughter of the ,emperor ,augustus2#efi and here1 after he had reigned #cg years1 he died and was interred with great pomp in a magnificent mausoleum which he had previously prepared for himself4 #egj ,but this eastern ,bethsaida is chiefly interesting to the ,christian traveler as associated with the life of our divine ,lord4 ,sailing from ,capernaum1 hither he retired with his disciples 8into a desert place apart40#ega ,this 8desert place0 was probably one of those uninhabited mountains which overhang the lake on the south1 and which1 owing to the scarcity of springs and the nearer approach to the ,bedouin tribes1 were not dotted with towns as were the opposite hills1 and which naturally became a refuge from the active life of the western shores4 ,attracted by his miracles and charmed by his presence1 8when the people heard thereof they followed him on foot out of the cities10#egb and sweeping round the head of the lake1 while he himself sailed across it1 they reached the place where he had landed4 ,having 8healed their sick0 and taught them lessons of divine wisdom1 the compassionate ,savior finished the labors of the day by feeding that multitude of over #ejjj souls with five loaves and two fishes4#egc ,the scene of this extraordinary miracle is the noble plain at the mouth of the ,jordan1 which during most of the year is now1 as then1 covered with 8green grass40#egd ,dismissing the multitude with his blessing1 and 8constraining his disciples to get into a ship0 and return to ,capernaum1 8he went up into a mountain apart to pray40 ,the imagination dwells with delight upon this parting scenethe thousands of people scattered along the beach absorbed in deepest thought1 and moving homeward with lingering step1 turning ever and anon to gain another glance at the blessed ,savior2 the ship upon the sea1 containing the twelve disciples1 returning to ,gennesaret2 while1 slowly moving up the mountain side1 the ,master is retiring into solitude for meditation and prayer4 ,the multitude had reached their homes and were wrapped in slumber2 the ,savior had finished his devotions and had descended to the shore1 but the disciples were in the 8midst of the sea1 tossed with waves1 for the wind was contrary40 8,in the fourth watch of the night10 leaving this beautiful plain1 8,jesus went unto them1 walking on the sea40 ,calming their fears by that sublime salutation1 8,be of good cheer2 it is ,i1 be not afraid10 he allowed the impulsive ,peter to 8walk on the water10 which no less evinced the weakness of the apostle's faith than it displayed the compassion and power of his ,lord4#ege ,having described a part of the western and the whole of the eastern shore of the ,sea of ,galilee1 it only remains to follow the shore northward from ,tiberias to ,capernaum1 and thence eastward to ,chorazin4 ,it was seven ,a4,m4 when we left the ancient capital of ,antipas to visit the cities upbraided by our ,lord4 ,the morning sun had risen upon the ,hills of ,galilee in cloudless beauty1 the surface of the lake was rippled by a soft breeze from the south1 and far to the north rose the sublime form of ,hermon1 its snowy summits reflecting the early light4 ,two paths were before us1 one mounting the uplands on the left1 the other following the coast4 ,choosing the latter1 our course was to the northwest4 ,the beach gently declined toward the clear blue waters1 and was strewn with shells1 and with white and black pebbles of basalt and limestone4 ,in half an hour we passed the wild ravine of ,arbela1 opening into the interior1 and flanked by bold1 precipitous cliffs4 ,travelers were approaching from the north1 mounted on fine ,arabian horses1 and seated on chair-back saddles4 ,as we advanced the banks became steep and rocky1 and the mountains above us rose in jutting peaks4 ,in less than an hour we came to ,magdala1 the birthplace of ,mary ,magdalene4 ,standing on the shore1 it bears the modern name of ,mejdel4 ,eighteen centuries ago it was a large and thriving town1 but at present it contains only #bj huts1 on the flat roofs of which children had built booths of reeds4 ,around the hovels are old foundations and heaps of rubbish1 and near a half-ruined tower stands a solitary palm4 ,attracted by our presence1 the women rushed from their wretched homes and gazed at us wildly1 and1 judging from their frightful appearance1 they might be dispossessed of as many demons as was their ancient sister4 ,at ,mejdel begins the celebrated ,plain of ,gennesaret4 ,formed by the mountains suddenly receding inland1 it is an open and level plain two and a half miles wide and five long4 ,having the form of a crescent1 it is encompassed on the west by rugged mountains1 and on the east it is washed by the sea4 ,equaling in fertility the ,plains of ,jericho1 it is well watered1 and its soil is in part a rich black mould4 ,no less than four streams flow through it to the lake1 and1 wherever cultivated1 it yields abundantly4 ,portions of its shore-line consist of a thick jungle of oleander1 in whose branches birds of variant forms and of brilliant colors carol the melody of their song4 ,in his description of this plain ,josephus is as correct as he is eloquent4 ,referring to the various kinds of trees which grew thereon1 8he calls the place the ambition of nature1 where it forces those plants that are naturally enemies to one another to agree together40#egf ,were it cultivated with intelligence and taste1 it would be the ,paradise of ,northern ,palestine1 producing the choicest fruits luxuriantly1 and possessing an eternal spring4 ,even now1 notwithstanding its neglected state1 it is dotted with magnificent corn-fields and with groves of dwarf palms2 and while from our feet quails sprang up at almost every step1 the voice of the turtle-dove was heard on every side4 ,in the days of our ,lord it was the most densely populated part of the ,holy ,land1 and through its beautiful gardens he was wont to pass1 and in its thriving towns to teach his wondrous truths4 ,somewhere on its whitened beach he and his disciples landed after he had walked upon the water2#egg and from that beach he stepped into one of the 8two boats0 standing on its gradual slope1 and1 praying ,peter 8that he would thrust out a little from the land1 he sat down and taught the people out of the ship40#egh ,taking advantage of the promiscuous audience which hung with rapt attention upon his words1 he here delivered the remarkable parables of the 8,sower and the ,seed10 of the 8,wheat and ,tares10 of the 8,mustard-seed10 and of the 8,leaven which a woman took and hid in three measures of meal40#egi ,it is highly probable that the first three of these parables were suggested to his mind by the fields of vegetation which dotted this plain4 ,as in his day1 so now1 the wheat and tares grow together1 and all the facts of the parable are illustrated to the modern traveler4 ,tares abound throughout the country1 and in many respects they resemble the ,american cheat4 ,the stalk stands perfectly erect1 and the small grains are arranged compactly one above the other4 ,having a bitter taste1 they produce dizziness when eaten1 whether by man or beast1 and are regarded as a strong soporific poison4 ,if the ,savior designed to represent the existence of the good and bad in his ,church1 no illustration could have been selected more appropriate and impressive4 ,the 8wheat and tares0 derive nourishment from the same soil2 they are so much alike before the grain is headed out that it is quite impossible to distinguish the stalk of the one from that of the other1 even to those accustomed to weed their fields2 and so intertwined are the roots of both1 8that they must grow together until the harvest0 before the wheat can be gathered into the garner and the tares collected to be burnt4 ,and here1 no doubt1 was growing then1 as it grows now1 the mustard-plant1 which formed the basis of a second parable4 ,attaining the height of ten feet1 its trunk is slender1 the leaves are broad1 and the blossoms yellow4 ,though this wild and perennial shrub may aid our conceptions of the tree which our ,lord describes1 yet it is probable that the variety to which he alludes was cultivated1 and was the 8least of all seeds0 sown by the husbandman1 and when grown was 8the greatest among herbs0 in all his garden4 ,illustration3 ,,plain ,,of ,,gennesaret ,,and ,,home ,,of ,,mary ,,magdalene4 ,on the northern horn of this crescent plain is the site of the renowned city of ,capernaum4 ,plucking an anemone in memory of the devoted ,mary1 we passed up the coast1 and found the distance to be scarcely four miles4 ,in attempting to ford one of the mountain streams which pour their turbid waters into the lake1 our horses sank into the soft clay bottom1 leaving us no alternative but to dismount and wade ashore4 ,accustomed to such incidents in ,oriental traveling1 we remounted1 and1 hastening over the plain1 reached ,capernaum at ten ,a4,m4 ,though its early history is involved in much obscurity1 and though it is not mentioned in the ,old ,testament1 it was probably built by the ,jews after their return from ,babylon4 ,at the commencement of the ,christian era it was a large and prosperous town1 but it is indebted to the presence and works of ,jesus for its present renown4 ,as the history of its origin is obscure1 so the time of its destruction is unknown4 ,but whether the evidence of the identity of the site is drawn from the incidental allusions of the evangelists1#ehj or from the history of ,josephus1#eha or from the writings of the fathers1 or from eminent travelers down to the #agth century1#ehb or from the topography of the spot1 the argument is no less clear than satisfactory4 ,judging from the heaps of ruins covering portions of the plain1 the city stood near the base of a bold bluff1 which rises in the form of a truncated cone #cjj feet high1 and which dips its eastern end into the sea1 while its western extremity is bounded by a green meadow stretching along the shore4 ,at the foot of the cliff is the large 8,fountain of the ,fig10 so called from a noble fig-tree that shades the cave from which the stream issues4 ,the water is clear1 cool1 and sweet1 and flows over a broad pebbled bed into the lake4 ,near the fountain are the remains of a tower1 to which is attached a portion of an arched gateway1 and south of it is a low mound of shapeless ruins1 overgrown with thorns and thistles4 ,nearly #ajjj feet to the northwest from ',ain et-,tn is the old ,khan ,minyeh1 lying under the western brow of the hill1 which1 standing on the great caravan route between ,egypt and ,damascus1 is designed for the accommodation of pilgrims4 ,ascending the bold cliff behind the city1 we found the sides terraced1 and the flattened summit covered with wheat and barley1 ripe for the harvest4 ,from this lofty position we obtained a delightful view4 ,at our feet lay the lake1 smooth and bright1 like polished silver1 and beyond the broad valley of the ,jordan opened before us4 ,on the east the eye glanced over the ,plains of ,bashan and the ,mountains of ,gilead2 on the north1 ,safed rose in solitary grandeur2 while on the west were the ,land of ,gennesaret1 and1 over lower hills1 the 8,mount of ,beatitudes40 ,charmed with the view and overwhelmed with the recollections of the past1 ,i sat down and read the eventful history of ,capernaum4 ,rivaling ,jerusalem in the number and sacredness of its hallowed associations1 it is to the north what the former is to the south4 ,not excepting ,olivet1 it stands pre-eminent in evangelical history as the scene of our ,lord's most instructive discourses and most astonishing miracles4 ,driven from ,nazareth by his ungrateful townsmen1 8he came and dwelt in ,capernaum10#ehc which from that time forward became 8his own city40#ehd ,returning hither from journeys to other parts1 here he was received with affection and revered as divine4 ,here1 in the synagogue1 on the ,sabbath day1 having astonished the people by the authority with which he had enforced his doctrines1 he healed the demoniac4#ehe ,passing from the synagogue1 8he entered the house of ,simon and ,andrew10 and finding the mother of ,peter's wife 8sick of a fever10 he immediately restored her to health1#ehe and that night the people thronged the door of the dwelling1 8and he healed many that were sick of divers diseases40#ehe ,returning from the 8country of the ,gergesenes10 he cured the paralytic2#ehf and passing by the receipt of custom1 he called ,matthew to the apostleship4#ehf ,descending from the 8,mount of ,beatitudes10 he here restored the servant of the devout centurion4#ehg ,yielding to the paternal entreaties of ,jairus1 he entered the ruler's house1 and1 taking the dead damsel by the hand1 uttered those life-giving words1 8,talitha-cumi10 and 8she arose and walked40 ,it was while going on this errand of mercy that1 as he passed through the thronged streets of ,capernaum1 a daughter of ,israel 8came in the press behind and touched his garment10 and was made whole4#ehh ,coming from the visions and glory of ,tabor1 he was here met by those who 8received tribute-money10 and sent forth ,peter1 who miraculously obtained from the mouth of a fish a coin bearing the image and superscription of ,csar4#ehi ,it was here1 in a house no longer standing1 that1 after delivering from the deck of a fish-boat the memorable parables of the 8,sower10 the 8,tares10 the 8,mustard-seed10 and the 8,leaven10 he gave forth the parables of the 8,hidden ,treasure10 the 8,merchant seeking goodly ,pearls10 and of the 8,net cast into the ,sea40#eij ,here1 in the home of ,st4 ,matthew1 and around his well-spread board1 our ,lord discoursed on 8fasting40#eia ,at a subsequent period he reproved the ,scribes and ,pharisees for their 8formality20#eib and on the morning after he had calmed the storm he taught the people the nature of 8faith20#eic and here1 either in the house of ,simon or ,levi1 in the privacies of social life1 and surrounded only by his disciples1 he chided their ambition1 rebuked their sectarianism1 and unfolded to them the beauty and power of humility1 forbearance1 and brotherly love4#eid ,who can wonder at the judgments pronounced upon a city so highly favored1 whose citizens refused to be enlightened by such words of wisdom1 and convinced by such acts of mercy8 ,rejecting him1 he in turn has rejected them4 ,the 8woe0 has fallen heavily upon the ungrateful city1 and time has proven the fulfillment of prophecy4 8,and thou1 ,capernaum1 which art exalted to heaven1 shalt be brought down to hell2 for if the mighty works which have been done in thee had been done in ,sodom1 it would have remained until this day4 ,but ,i say unto thee1 it shall be more tolerable for the land of ,sodom in the day of judgment than for thee40#eie ,whether this exaltation denoted the lofty site of the city1 or its pride and prosperity1 the abasement is equally true4 ,the desolation is universal2 the ruin is complete4 ,there is a dispute among the learned whether the town stood upon the high hill above the fountain1 or on the plain below4 ,in all probability the hill served as the acropolis1 commanding the entire plain1 on the northeast end of which the larger portion of the city was built4 ,as there is no path along the northern shore1 we wound up the sides of a precipitous promontory dipping into the sea1 and found a path excavated in the rock #bj feet above the water-line1 and measuring three feet deep and as many wide4 ,descending to the shore of a beautiful bay1 and riding northeastward1 in #bj minutes from ,capernaum we came to ,bethsaida1 the home of ,peter and his brethren4 ,bearing the ,arabic name of ,et-,tbighah1 this city of the holy apostles stands in a charming little nook in the mountain side4 ,the hills rise around it in graceful gradations1 and on the west is a small but lonely bay1 encircled by a beach of fine sand1 and just such a place as fishermen love to ground their boats and spread their nets upon4 ,unoccupied except by a few millers1 the chief attraction of the place is its pools1 fountains1 and aqueducts4 ,no city of its size in ,palestine has so many and valuable water facilities as ,bethsaida4 ,the larger fountains burst out from the base of the mountain #cjj yards to the north1 and around the principal one is a large octagonal reservoir1 with two circular holes designed as drains4 ,a flight of steps in the southwest corner leads down to the water1 which is warm and sulphurous1 and about eight feet deep4 ,from the bottom of the reservoir there were canes growing to the height of #bj feet4 ,nearer the shore is a circular well1 called ',ain ,eyb1 or 8,job's ,fountain40 ,this reservoir1 together with several mills1 were constructed by ,dhher el-,omer1 and now belong to the government1 by whom they are farmed out to villagers from the neighboring towns4 ,originally called the 8,house of ,fish10 as significant of the vocation of its ancient inhabitants1 ,bethsaida will ever live in the recollection of the pious as the birthplace of five apostles1 who have stamped the world with their influence1 and affected the opinions and destiny of mankind in all countries4 ,here ,peter1 and ,andrew1 and ,james1 and ,john1 and ,philip spent their childhood1 and here they engaged in the humble but honest calling of fishermen4 ,it was probably on the shore of the small bay previously described that ,jesus1 walking by the ,sea of ,galilee1 saw two brethren1 ,simon called ,peter1 and ,andrew his brother1 casting a net into the sea1 and said unto them1 8,follow me1 and ,i will make you fishers of men4 ,and going on from thence1 he saw other two brethren1 ,james the son of ,zebedee1 and ,john his brother1 and he called them1 and they followed him40#eif ,and here1 no doubt1 is the scene of that miraculous draught of fishes1 which astonished the disciples1 and convinced them of the divine character of our ,lord4#eig ,but this ,bethsaida must not be confounded with the one east of the ,jordan1 and which has already been noticed as having been enlarged and beautified by ,philip the tetrarch4 ,the latter being in ,gaulonitis and not in ,galilee1 it could not have been the native city of the apostles1 who were ,galileans2 and though it may appear unusual to find two cities of the same name in such close proximity1 yet the singularity disappears when it is remembered that they belonged to separate provinces1 and that ,bethsaida ,julias is not on the lake shore1 but on the eastern bank of the ,jordan1 two miles from the mouth of the river4 ,this distinction sheds much light upon a somewhat obscure passage by ,st4 ,mark4 ,after our ,lord had learned of the execution of ,john the ,baptist1 he left ,capernaum1 and1 with his disciples1 8departed into a desert place by ships privately40#eih ,st4 ,john1 with greater exactitude1 says that 8,jesus went over the ,sea of ,galilee40#eii ,the 8desert place0 is on the northeastern shore of the lake1 where he fed the #ejjj1 and is 8over the sea40 ,having dismissed the multitude1 8he constrained his disciples to get into a ship1 and to go to the other side before unto ,bethsaida10 which is on 8the other side20 and as it is only a mile from ,capernaum1 agrees with ,st4 ,john1 who records that 8they went over the sea toward ,capernaum40#fjj ,they embarked for ,bethsaida1 but the 8wind was contrary10 and they were driven from their course to the southward4 8,about the fourth watch of the night0 ,jesus came 8walking on the sea10 and1 entering the ship1 8the wind ceased40 ,with a minuteness that leaves us without a doubt1 ,st4 ,matthew and ,st4 ,mark say1 8,they came into the land of ,gennesaret20#fja and ,st4 ,john designates which portion of ,gennesaret they came to in saying that 8when the people saw that ,jesus was on the other side1 they took shipping and came to ,capernaum seeking for ,jesus1 and that they found him there40#fjb ,had the disciples sailed for ,bethsaida ,julias1 it would have been impossible for them to have sailed 8over the sea toward ,capernaum10 as the former is not 8over the sea10 and is not in the same direction with the latter1 ,capernaum being southwest and ,julias northeast4 ,nor is the difficulty relieved by supposing that ,tell ,hum is the true site of ,capernaum1 as the argument drawn from the direction of the place remains in full force4 ,having satisfied his mind touching the identity of a place1 the traveler lingers about the spot with no ordinary delight4 ,such were the pleasing emotions ,i experienced as ,i stood amid the ruins of the home of ,peter1 ,james1 and ,john1 and watched the crystal waters flowing into the sea through banks lined with oleanders in full bloom4 ,and the impression was overwhelming as the great fact rose up before my mind that in this retired quarter of the globein this ,galilean village of humble pretensions1 five inspired apostles were born1 who from their fish-boats went forth commissioned to evangelize the world1 and to be the biographers of the ,son of ,god4 ,it is an ancient suggestion1 that the scenery of childhood gives tone to the character of a man and direction to his coming years4 ,few men whose acts fill so large a portion of the world's history have evinced traits of character so opposite1 and transitions in their emotional natures so remarkable as the 8fishermen of ,bethsaida40 ,pure as they were simple1 benevolent as they were sincere1 they loved and hated1 hoped and despaired2 they were bold and fearful1 joyful and sorrowful1 firm and inconstant1 as the surrounding circumstances were favorable to the development of their better natures1 or to disclose the weaknesses of our common humanity4 ,looking out upon the scene before me1 ,i fancied that their finer feelings and gentler traits were evoked by the deep blue skies1 the transparent atmosphere1 the mellow dawn1 the golden sunset1 the placid lake1 the flowing fountains1 the blooming flowers and shell-strewn shores1 while the rugged mountains and boisterous storms at sea aroused their fiery and impetuous spirits4 ,when composed they resembled their embowered lake1 whose placid waters mirror the overhanging foliage along its banks2 but when agitated1 they were like their native sea during a storm1 when the deep was troubled1 when thunder answered thunder1 and the roar of the waters responded to the howl of the winds4 ,three miles to the northeast are the remains of the city of ,chorazin4 ,in the intervening space the hills approach the shore1 exposing at intervals a rough bank1 lined with a tangled thicket of a thorny shrub4 ,in the spring-time the black tents of the predatory farmers dot the table-land1 only one of which now remained1 and around it a solitary shepherd was keeping his flock4 ,it was while riding over this broad plateau that we were startled by one of those squalls peculiar to this inland sea4 ,the air had been quiet1 the lake calm1 and the heavens were cloudless1 but within five minutes the wind blew a gale1 the sea became troubled1 the waves rolled high and dashed wildly on the shore4 ,it was a repetition of that scene when the disciples were sailing over the sea2 when 8,jesus was in the hinder part of the ship1 asleep on a pillow20 when 8there arose a great storm of wind1 and the waves beat into the ship1 so that it was now full20 and when1 in the moment of danger1 they awoke the ,divine ,sleeper1 8who arose and rebuked the wind1 and said unto the sea1 ,peace1 be still40#fjc ,the natural causes operating and producing such effects in that distant age are still in force4 ,the sea is #fjj feet lower than the ocean2 the mountains on the east and north rise to a great height1 and their sides are furrowed with deep and wild ravines2 and the temperature of this volcanic basin differing from that on the mountains above1 these profound gorges serve as vast conductors1 through which1 at certain periods1 the cold winds from above rush suddenly down1 causing a tempest in an unexpected moment4 ,the ruins of ,chorazin lie upon the shore1 covering a level tract half a mile long and a quarter of a mile wide4 ,consisting chiefly of the foundations and prostrate walls of dwellings1 they are overgrown with a thicket of thistles eight feet high1 and so dense that it is almost impossible to penetrate and examine the remains4 ,the walls of a square tower #aj feet high are standing1 and are composed of fragments of columns1 capitals1 and friezes1 mingled with hewn stone of different dimensions4 ,to the east of the tower we entered a structure1 the object of which can not now be determined4 ,portions of the northern and western walls remain1 the former measuring #aje feet long1 and the latter about #hj4 ,within this inclosure are strewn1 in utter confusion1 limestone columns1 ,corinthian capitals1 sculptured entablatures1 ornamental friezes1 double columns1 and immense blocks of stone nine feet long and five wide1 with panels sculptured in their sides4 ,this may have been a magnificent ,jewish synagogue1 a substitute in part for the noble ,temple of ,jerusalem4 ,in the days of our ,savior and five centuries after1 ,chorazin was a populous and wealthy city4 ,driven from their ancient capital1 the ,jews settled on the shores of this lake4 ,their ,sanhedrim found a resting-place at ,tiberias1 and ,magdala1 ,capernaum1 ,bethsaida1 and ,chorazin became their chief towns4 ,in the wealth of her citizens1 the grandeur of her architecture1 and the influence of her religious institutions1 the latter appears to have been as influential as magnificent4 ,but the 8woe0 has fallen on ,chorazin4 ,what the 8mighty works which were done0 in her were we are not informed1 but evidently they were of such a character as to give light to her people1 in the rejection of which was involved her ruin4 ,rejecting that light1 she has fallen with her sister towns2 and without a single habitation1 the most beautiful site for a city on all these shores is now a thorn-bed1 where adders crawl and jackals hide4 8,woe unto thee1 ,chorazin6 woe unto thee1 ,bethsaida6 for if the mighty works which were done in thee had been done in ,tyre and ,sidon1 they would have repented long ago in sackcloth and ashes40 ,and if the present small but thriving towns of ,tyre and ,sidon be compared to this 8howling wilderness10 this 8perfection of desolation10 the contrast can not fail to suggest to every impartial mind the marvelous and strangely exact fulfillment of our ,lord's solemn predictions4#fjd ,indeed1 the ,lake of ,gennesaret is a beautiful desolation4 ,her villas are in ruins1 her fisheries have failed1 her ship-yards are silent1 her commerce is destroyed1 her manufactories are abandoned1 and her waters1 which were the rich possession of ,naphthali1 are without a keel to divide them1 or a sail to fly before their mountain gusts4 ,turning inland and following a path along the base of the mountain1 an hour's ride brought us to the mouth of the ,jordan4 ,forty miles to the northeast1 up the broad ravine through which the most illustrious of earthly rivers flows1 appeared ,mount ,hermon1 with his icy crown brilliant in the midday sun4 ,for nine miles the path follows the river bank to ',jisr ,bent ,yakb1 the 8,bridge of ,jacob's ,daughters40 ,it is the only bridge which at present spans the ,jordan1 and its three arches1 with its well-paved roadway1 are in good condition4 ,though traditionally marking the site where ,jacob1 staff in hand1 crossed the stream1 yet it is not easy to determine why the word 8daughters0 should be added4 ,the ,jordan is here a rapid stream1 #be yards wide and #aj feet deep1 flowing between alluvial banks fringed with thickets of reeds and rank grass4 ,from the bridge on the eastern bank of the river1 a beautiful level tract of land extends northward for three miles to the foot of ,lake ,hleh4 ,four and a half miles in length and three and a half in breadth1 this charming lake is the first gathering together of the waters of the ,upper ,jordan as they descend from their perennial springs4 ,known in the ,bible as the 8,waters of ,merom10 and called by ,josephus ,samochonitis1#fje it was on the shore of this lake that ,joshua 8smote ,jabin1 king of ,hazor40#fjf ,passing the probable site of ,hazor1 two miles to the west from the fountain of ,mellhah1 and crossing the deep glen through which the ,hasbny flows to the ,jordan1 the path runs over undulating ground to ,tell el-,kdy1 8,the ,hill of the ,judge10 or the ,dan of ,scripture1 situated #ab miles from the northern end of ,lake ,hleh4 ,rising from the midst of a level plain1 the hill on which the ancient city stood is #hj feet high and three quarters of a mile in circumference4 ,it is covered with trees and bushes1 which conceal the ruins of the old town4 ,placed by ,josephus at the fountain of the ,jordan1 and located by ,eusebius a quarter of a mile from ,paneas1 on the way to ,tyre1 there can be no question as to the identity of the place4 ,its history is as sanguinary as it is romantic4 ,captured by the princes of ,mesopotamia1 hither ,lot was brought after the pillage of ,sodom2 and1 inspired by a courage that was never blanched with fear1 here ,abraham overtook the captors of his nephew1 and dividing his #cah 8trained servants born in his own house10 he fell upon the foe by night1 8and smote them and pursued them unto ,hobah1 which is on the left hand of ,damascus2 and he brought back all his goods1 and also brought again his brother ,lot1#fjg and his goods1 and the women also1 and the people40#fjh ,called in the days of the ,judges ,laish1 its capture by the ,danites forms one of the most romantic stories in the ,old ,testament4 ,unable to expel the more powerful ,philistines who occupied a large part of their tribeship1 #fjj armed men from the cities of ,zorah and ,eshtool went up and smote the rich and careless ,sidonians who inhabited the town1 and1 taking possession of the city1 they called it 8,dan1 after their father40 ,on their way northward they had stopped at ,mount ,ephraim1 where they pillaged the house of ,micah of the holy symbols of his religion1 and compelled a young ,levite to accompany them1 8to be to them a father and a priest40#fji ,though a trifling conquest when compared to the grand achievements of ,joshua and ,david1 the capture of ,laish and its occupation by the ,danites was the fulfillment of an ancient prophecy3 8,dan is a lion's whelp2 he shall leap from ,bashan20#faj and from that time the city was regarded as the northern border of the ,promised ,land1 and gave rise to that household expression1 8,from ,dan to ,beersheba40#faa ,but the city of ,dan is no less celebrated for its waters than for its interesting history4 ,at the western base of the hill there is the largest fountain in ,syria1 and among the largest in the world4 ,bursting forth from the rocks1 the water first forms a small lake1 from which it rushes southward a rapid river1 called the ,leddn4 ,four miles below it forms a junction with a large stream from ,banis1 and a mile beyond the confluence it is joined by the ,river ,hasbny1 which gives its name to the stream down to the ,lake ,hleh4 ,thus gradually the ,jordan is formed4 ,winding through oaken groves1 and lined with myrtle and oleanders1 the road diverges to the northeast1 and four miles from ,dan is ,csarea ,philippi4 ,occupying a broad terrace in the mountain side1 it is bounded by two sublime ravines1 one on the north and the other on the south1 between which1 and in the rear of the site1 rise the castellated heights of ,subeibeh #ajjj feet high4 ,the terrace is adorned with groves of oaks and olives1 and carpeted with the richest verdure4 ,a site so remarkable for its ,alpine scenery did not fail to attract the earlier ,phnicians1 and1 at a later period1 the ,greeks and ,romans4 ,supposed to be the 8,baal ,gad0 of ,scripture1 it was early consecrated by the ,canaanites to the idolatrous worship of one of their ,baals4#fab ,chosen by the ,greeks to be the shrine of ,pan1 it retains the name of ,bnis1 the ,arabic form of ,paneas4 ,coming into the possession of 8,philip1 tetrarch of ,iturea and ,trachonitis10 it was rebuilt and enlarged by the son of ,herod the ,great1 who named it ,csarea1 in honor of ,tiberius ,csar2 and to distinguish it from ,csarea on the ,mediterranean coast1 and to perpetuate his own name1 he called it ,csarea ,philippi4 ,among its mighty ruins is a citadel of quadrangular form covering four acres1 and surrounded by a massive wall with heavy towers at the angles and sides4 ,guarded on the east by a deep moat1 it is washed on the north and west by a large stream1 and on the south it is protected by a profound chasm1 which is spanned by a bridge1 from which a noble gateway opens into the citadel4 ,within this inclosure1 and surrounded by granite columns and limestone shafts1 are the #dj dwellings of the modern town4 ,to the north of the ruins1 and at the base of a cliff of ruddy limestone #ajj feet high1 is a cave of vast dimensions1 and as dark as vast4 ,within are the fragments of noble edifices1 and around its mouth are heaps of broken rocks and portions of ancient buildings4 ,in harmony with ,grecian mythology1 this deep cavern was selected as the temple of the sylvan ,pan1 and on the face of the cliff a ,greek inscription records the sacred history of the cave4 ,the ,romans succeeding the ,greeks1 ,herod the ,great erected a splendid temple of white marble to ,augustus near the place called ,panium4#fac ,destroyed by some unknown power1 the ruins of this temple are entombed in the cave1 excepting a fragment clinging to the rocks above1 and now dedicated to a ,moslem saint4 ,near this spot is the great fountain of ,bnis1 which is one of the principal sources of the ,jordan4 ,bursting forth from beneath heaps of rubbish1 the water flows in a rapid1 foaming torrent over a rocky bed1 and1 plunging over a precipice1 falls into a dark ravine1 through which it runs southward and joins the ,hasbny4 ,as the northern limit of our ,savior's wanderings1 ,csarea ,philippi was the scene of one of the most interesting incidents in our ,lord's life4 ,having restored a blind man at ,bethsaida ,julias1 he and his disciples passed up this same route1 and1 coming into the towns of ,csarea ,philippi1 he asked his disciples1 8,whom do men say that ,i am80 ,receiving their reply1 he tested their faith by the more personal question1 8,but whom say ye that ,i am80 ,ever ready with an answer1 and acting as the mouth-piece of his brethren1 ,st4 ,peter uttered that extraordinary confession1 8,thou art the ,christ1 the son of the living ,god40 ,satisfied with an answer no less satisfactory than true1 he returned southward1 and 8after six days0 he was transfigured on the summit of ,tabor1 commanding a view of his native hills4#fad ,illustration3 ,,upper ,,jordan4 ,passing on the east the castle of ,subeibeh1 the road to ,hasbeiya is through a region as wild as it is picturesque4 ,eighteen miles from ,csarea ,philippi is the fountain of ,hasbny1 the principal source of the ,upper ,jordan4 ,at the foot of a volcanic bluff the waters burst forth1 and by means of a strong and permanent dam are collected into a pond1 from which they are turned into a wide mill-race4 ,escaping therefrom1 they commence their long descent1 and1 augmented by vast tributaries1 they flow on through two successive lakes1 to be received into a third1 where they are evaporated by the intense heat of the ,vale of ,siddim4 ,thus formed1 the ,river ,jordan is at once remarkable for its length and descent4 ,though1 as the crow flies1 it is not more than #abj miles long from its highest source at ,hasbeiya to the point where it enters into the ,dead ,sea1 yet1 owing to its tortuous channel1 it can not be less than #cjj miles in length2 and it is an equally extraordinary fact that in its descent from ,lake ,huleh to its southern termination1 which in a straight line is but #hj miles1 it has a fall of more than #acjj feet4 ,the village of ,hasbeiya is situated on both sides of a deep glen1 which descends from a side ridge of ,hermon westward into ,wady et-,teim4 ,the head of the ravine being but a little east of the town1 the latter is inclosed on three sides by high hills1 which are regularly terraced and planted with vineyards1 olive-groves1 and fig-orchards4 ,of its #ejjj inhabitants1 #djjj are ,christians1 and the remainder ,druzes4 ,aside from its great fountain1 the only object of interest is a group of ,druze chapels1 the most celebrated of all the sanctuaries belonging to that sect4 ,crowning some of the lofty summits1 they are strongly built1 and the only architectural peculiarity they possess is the smallness of the windows4 ,constituting a secret society1 the ,druzes select the most solitary places for their temples1 to which no stranger may intrude4 ,but the commanding feature in the natural scenery of this region is ,mount ,hermon4 ,from ,hasbeiya it requires six hours of hard climbing to reach its lofty summit4 ,the path first ascends a high wooded ridge2 then1 crossing a deep ravine1 it winds upward over loose stones and amid tufts of coarse grass4 ,a part of the anti-,lebanon range1 ,hermon is a vast limestone mountain1 consisting of three principal summits4 ,the northern one is the highest1 and has the appearance of an obtuse truncated cone2 the ascent is but #ijj feet south from the parent range1 and directly beneath its summit1 some #ejjj feet1 in a basin-like glen1 are the sources of the ,river ,pharpar1 near a small village called ',arny4 ,the third peak is a quarter of a mile to the west from the latter1 and is the lowest of the three4 ,the second highest mountain in ,syria1 ,hermon is #aj1jjj feet high4 ,from its loftiest summit the eye sweeps over a landscape of extraordinary grandeur4 ,the two parallel ranges of ,lebanon and anti-,lebanon stretch far away to the 8entering of ,hamath0 in the north1 with the great valley of the ,buk'a between them4 ,turning southward1 the eye follows the sacred river1 now resting in the basin of ,hleh1 now expanding into the ,sea of ,tiberias1 and beyond pursuing its infinite windings through the ,jordan valley to the shining waters of the ,dead ,sea4 ,along its eastern banks appear in regular succession the rich pastures and 8oaks of ,bashan01 the ,mountains of ,gilead1 and those of ,ammon and ,moab1 and opposite1 the ,hills of ,samaria1 of ,benjamin1 and ,judah4 ,turning westward1 there is ,carmel and ,tabor1 and the ,hills of ,galilee2 and on the white coast-line1 ',akka1 ,tyre1 and ,sidon2 and far out into the 8great sea10 its waters mingling with the western horizon1 is the ,isle of ,cyprusthe ,chittim of the ,phnicians1 and the scene of the ministry of ,paul and ,barnabas4 ,turning eastward1 there is the ,hauran1 with its unvisited cities2 and beyond1 the ,arabian ,desert1 from whose burning sands the sun comes forth1 to descend at night into the cooling waters of the ,mediterranean4 ,the southern peak of ,hermon is crowned with curious ruins4 ,around the rocky crest is a circular wall1 some of the large stones of which are beveled1 while others have a plain moulding around the edge4 ,here are the remains of some grand but unknown temple1 one of the columns of which stands upon the brow of a steep declivity4 ,it is supposed that the ancient inhabitants of the land1 being worshipers of the sun1 here built their altar to that shining orb who is seen running his course in the heavens from the desert to the sea4 ,around the base of this noble mountain vegetation is luxuriant1 and on the lower ridges radiating from it are forests of oaks1 interspersed with mountain shrubs2 but the peaks are naked1 and are covered with small limestones1 rendering them smooth and bleak4 ,perpetual winter reigns upon their summits4 ,the snow never disappears4 ,all through the springtime to early summer1 they resemble white domes standing out against the purple skies4 ,in midsummer and in autumn the intense heat melts the snow from the tops of the ridges1 but1 owing to its greater depth1 does not affect that portion which fills the ravines4 ,and thus ,hermon appears1 alternately streaked with light and dark lines1 till hoary winter comes again to weave his mantle of white1 and cover therewith those majestic summits1 the symbols of a purer world4 ,in every age it has had a name significant of some physical peculiarities4 ,its 8lofty conical peak0 suggested the name of ,hermon2 its rounded top1 covered with snow and ice1 and glittering in the sunlight1 appeared to the ,sidonians and ,amorites like a massive 8breast-plate10 and by the former it was called 8,sirion10 and by the latter 8,shemr40#fae ,towering above its fellows1 it is named by ,moses 8,sionthe ,elevated20#faf and1 impressed with its majesty1 the ,arabs call it 8,jebel esh ,sheikhthe ,chief ,mountain40 ,in the poetry and geography of the ,bible it is the image of grandeur and the landmark of national domain4 ,joshua conquered all the land east of the ,jordan1 8from the ,river ,arnon unto ,mount ,hermon40#fag ,visible from almost every tribe's possession1 ,hermon was not only the terminating point of view northward1 but to the inspired writer1 whether prophet or poet1 it was 8the image of unearthly grandeur1 which nothing else but perpetual snow can give1 especially as seen in the summer1 when the firmament around it seems to be on fire40#fah ,in his exaltation of the ,creator the ,psalmist exclaims1 8,the north and the south1 thou hast created them2 ,tabor and ,hermon shall rejoice in thy name40#fai ,the summit snows1 condensing the vapors which1 during summer1 float around it in the higher regions of the atmosphere1 produce abundant dew1 which is a source of unfailing moisture to the adjacent country1 while other portions of the land remained dry and parched4 ,as the source of perpetual verdure and refreshing coolness1 it was the image to the ,hebrew poet of the enduring blessings of unity among brethren to the whole community4 8,as the dew of ,hermon1 and as the dew that descended upon the mountains of ,zion2#fbj for there the ,lord commanded his blessing1 even life for evermore40#fba ,returning to ,magdala en route for ,nazareth1 we entered 8,the ,valley of the ,pigeons10 one of the wildest glens in ,northern ,palestine4 ,bearing the ,arabic name of ,wady el-,hamn1 it leads up from the ,plain of ,gennesaret to the ,mount of ,beatitudes4 ,its mouth is a mile to the west from the home of ,mary of ,magdala4 ,at its entrance the ravine is broad1 but contracts to a narrow mountain defile4 ,the cliffs on either side are naked and broken1 and rise to the height of a thousand feet4 ,the one on the north is not as high as it is massive2 the one on the south is bolder and more precipitous4 ,far up the gorge1 and directly in front of the path1 is a perpendicular bluff1 terminating in a triangular point1 and not unlike in appearance a venerable castle4 ,near its ancient base is a small but pretty spring1 sending forth a soft murmur on the quiet air of ,hamn4 ,in the face of the rocks are immense natural and artificial caverns1 the resort of pigeons1 from which the vale takes its name4 ,during the reign of ,herod the ,great these caves were filled with robbers1 who were the scourges of the whole surrounding country4 ,after the battle of ,sepphoris ,herod besieged this strong-hold4 ,failing in his attempt to scale the cliffs1 he let boxes filled with soldiers down the face of the precipice1 and landed them at the entrance of the caverns4 ,attacking the bandits with fire and sword1 he succeeded in dislodging them1 killing some1 and dragging others out with long hooks1 and then dashing them down on the rocks below4#fbb ,illustration3 8,,valley ,,of ,,the ,,pigeons40 ,at the western end of this wild glen is the green plateau of ,hattn4 ,of irregular form1 it is a mile in its greatest breadth4 ,every where well cultivated1 it is bounded on the east1 north1 and south by low hills1 and on the west by the ,mount of ,beatitudes4 ,ascending the 8,mount10 ,i found it to consist of two low summits1 which suggested its present name1 ,kurn ,hattn1 8,the ,horns of ,hattn10 from a fancied resemblance to the two horns of a camel's saddle4 ,being a quarter of a mile long1 the adjacent ground rises gradually to its base1 and the hill forms a crest less than #ajj feet high4 ,relying upon an earlier tradition1 the ,crusaders revered ,kurn ,hattn as one of the sacred mountains1 and1 so far as they furnish any proof on the subject1 the evangelists confirm the earlier and later traditions4 ,their simple story is that 8,jesus went about all ,galilee1 preaching the gospel of the kingdom1 and healing all manner of sickness and all manner of disease among the people4 ,and there followed him great multitudes of people from ,galilee1 and from ,decapolis1 and from ,jerusalem1 and from ,judea1 and from beyond ,jordan4 ,and seeing the multitudes1 he went up into a mountain2 and when he was set1 his disciples came unto him2 and he opened his mouth and taught them40#fbc ,the region of country1 the distance from the sea1 the magnificence of the surrounding scenery1 the city of ,safed 8set upon a hill10 the sloping sides of the mountain1 and the lovely ,plain of ,hattn at its base1 combine to render this a befitting place for the delivery of our ,lord's 8,sermon on the ,mount40 ,around it are the ,hills of ,galilee1 to the east is seen the sea1 and beyond it are ,bashan and ,bozrah2 while to the north1 surmounting one of the highest and grandest of the ,galilean mountains1 is the old ,jewish city of ,safed1 to which1 no doubt1 the ,savior pointed when he compared his ,church on earth to 8a city that is set upon a hill1 that can not be hid40 ,only those who have seen ,safed can appreciate the beauty and appropriateness of our ,lord's allusion4 ,from its moss-grown castle is not only obtained a view of the most glorious panorama in ,palestine1 stretching from the 8,mountains of ,samaria0 to the ,arabian ,desert1 but the allusion amounts to almost absolute truth that the 8city can not be hid40 ,through all my journeyings for a week it followed me1 and the 8city set upon a hill0 was ever suggesting the sublime lessons of the 8,beatitudes40 ,whether on the shores of ,tiberias1 or on the ,plains of ,hattn1 or on the ,hills of ,nazareth1 or by the ,fountain of ,seffurieh1 or on the green fields of ,el-,buttauf1 the city of ,safed was before me1 rising up from earth like a beacon-light1 at once the confirmation of the ,savior's words1 and the impressive symbol of a living ,church4 ,but ,kurn ,hattn has a history other than that of having been the scene of the mild and life-giving teachings of ,christ4 ,it has a record of blood4 ,on its heights and around its base was fought one of the saddest and most bloody battles in medival times1 and the one which sealed the fate of the ,crusaders in ,palestine1 and opened the gates of the ,holy ,city to the profane and tyrannical rule of the ,turks4 ,here1 on the fifth of ,july1 #aahg1 the flower of the ,christian army1 under ,guy of ,lusignan1 met the barbarous hordes of ,mohammedans1 led on by ,saladin1 the mighty prince4 ,the ,christians had succeeded to the full occupation of the ,holy ,land from ancient ,gaza to the venerable city of ,antioch4 ,the weak-minded ,guy of ,lusignan had been elevated to the throne of ,jerusalem as the successor of ,baldwin ,v42 and as the powerful vassals of the king1 ,raynald of ,chatillon was ,lord of ,kerak1 and ,count ,raymond was ,lord of ,tiberias and ,galilee4 ,the ,christians were enjoying a period of repose1 under a truce which had been concluded with ,saladin1 the nephew of ,nourreddin1 and the new ,sultan of ,egypt4 ,but ,raynald of ,chatillon1 proving faithless to the compact1 had plundered a caravan of merchants passing from ,damascus to ,arabia1 and had even threatened the distant cities of ,mecca and ,medina4 ,saladin condescended to remonstrate1 and demanded the release of the prisoners whom the ,lord of ,kerak held in chains4 ,his demand rejected1 the sultan swore to dispatch the perfidious ,raynald with his own hand should he ever fall into his power4 ,to revenge this breach of faith1 ,saladin lost no time in marshaling a mighty army4 ,damascus was the appointed rendezvous1 and the warriors of the ,crescent assembled in thousands1 not only from the ,assyrian provinces1 but also from ,egypt1 ,arabia1 and ,mesopotamia4 ,alarmed by such stupendous preparations1 the ,crusaders in turn prepared to resist the foe and defend the sacred soil4 ,five miles to the southwest from ,hattn is the large fountain of ,seffurieh1 which was the gathering-place of the ,christian army4 ,as if impressed with the finality of the struggle1 the defenders of the ,cross came from their mountain castles and their most distant fortresses to conquer or to die4 ,from the banks of the ,kadsha and of the ,orontes1 and from the shores of ,tiberias1 ,raymond came with his faithful followers2 from the fortresses of ,kerak and ,shobk1 ,raynald led his well-trained knights2 lesser barons advanced from ,ascalon1 ,csarea1 and ,sidon1 while the ,king of ,jerusalem led in person a numerous army of ,templars and hired troops4 ,to add significance to the hour1 the venerable bishops of ,ptolemais and ,lydda brought the ,holy ,cross which ,st4 ,helena had recovered1 and elevated it amid the embattled host as the symbol of their faith and the inspiration of their courage4 ,more than a month had elapsed before the ,moslems appeared4 ,at length ,saladin1 with #hj1jjj horse and foot1 swept around the head of the ,lake of ,tiberias1 and took possession of the heights above the town4 ,encamped upon the ,plains of ,hattn1 and hoping to bring on a speedy and general engagement on his well-chosen field1 the sultan sent out light detachments to lay waste the country from ,jezreel to ,tabor1 and thence to ,nazareth1 within four miles of the enemy's camp4 ,unsuccessful in this attempt1 he then seized ,tiberias1 and compelled the wife of ,count ,raymond to retire with her children to the castle of the city4 ,the intelligence of the capture of the capital of ,galilee1 and of the imminent danger of the wife and children of the ,count of ,tripolis1 reached the camp of the ,christians on the #c;d of ,july4 ,that night a council of war was held to decide upon the action of the coming day4 ,inspired by the misfortunes of a woman and confident of success1 the king and his barons resolved to march in close array for the deliverance of ,tiberias4 ,though unquestionably the most interested party1 yet1 from motives which have never been explained1 ,count ,raymond opposed the decision of the council1 and1 having shown the folly of offensive movements in the heat of midsummer1 in a region destitute of water and far from the base of their supplies1 his policy was unanimously approved of by the king and the other members of the council4 ,but1 regarding the decision as unworthy the army of the ,cross1 the ,grand ,master of the ,templars repaired to the royal tent1 and overwhelmed the king with reproaches for having listened to the advice of a traitor1 and conjured him not to suffer such a stain of cowardice to rest upon the ,christian name4 ,overpersuaded1 the king gave orders to arm1 and at midnight the trumpet sounded1 while heralds flew throughout the startled camp proclaiming the royal decree4 ,at dawn on the #dth of ,july the ,christian army was in motion4 ,his scouts had brought ,saladin intelligence of the movement1 and immediately he dispatched his light troops to harass the ,crusaders on their march1 while with consummate skill he posted his main army on the plain and along the crest of ,hattn4 ,his ardent wishes were about to be gratified1 and his long-maturing plans were on the point of consummation4 ,late in the afternoon of the same day the ,king of ,jerusalem reached the field of ,el-,lubieh1 two miles to the southwest from the 8,horns of ,hattn10 where a desperate battle occurred4 ,night closed around the belligerent armies without decisive result4 ,that was a dreadful night4 ,the wisdom of ,raymond's advice now became apparent4 ,the heat was intense2 and1 besides being harassed by the fierce ,arabs1 the ,christians were dying for the want of water4 ,too weak-minded to take advantage of the darkness and order a midnight attack1 and at least gain the shores of the lake1 the feeble ,guy determined to defer the conflict till the morrow4 ,whether to revenge the insult offered to his prudent counsels1 or conscious of the impossibility of success in attempting to force the ranks of the foe1 ,raymond of ,tripolis advised the course pursued4 ,but it was the fatal step4 ,at length the morning came4 ,it was the #eth day of ,july1 #aahg ,a4,d4 ,the sky was cloudless1 and the sun rose amid a fiery hazethe presage of consuming heat4 ,it was a ,syrian midsummer day1 and the heavens were on fire4 ,led by their mighty prince1 the followers of the ,prophet were no less hopeful than brave4 ,but1 posted on a rocky plain without water1 and with their tormenting thirst increased by the smoke and heat arising from the shrubs and trees which the enemy had set on fire1 the ,christians received the first shock of battle with a despondency preintimating the defeat that terminated that dreadful struggle4 ,yet on no previous field had they displayed a truer devotion1 nor evinced a loftier courage4 ,with varied fortunes1 the battle raged from early dawn till late in the day4 ,now the ,holy ,cross was raised in momentary triumph1 now the banner of the ,crescent waved in transient victory4 ,but in vain did the ,knights of ,st4 ,john launch their burnished spears at a foe they justly hate1 and with equal courage receive in return the arrows and javelins of the ,saracens4 ,at length1 driven to the highest summit of ,hattn1 the king and a handful of ,templars gathered around the ,holy ,cross4 ,again and again they drove back the enemy1 and as often repulsed the terrible attacks of ,saladin's cavalry4 ,manfully the bravest of the knights fell wounded around the symbol of their faith1 and the ,bishop of ,ptolemais1 who bore the ,cross1 was pierced with an arrow1 and1 falling bleeding to the ground1 for a moment the sacred ensign disappeared1 but1 springing forward1 the ,bishop of ,lydda grasped the ,cross and bore it on high4 ,but the battle was lost4 ,the ,crescent of ,mecca shone triumphant4 ,saladin was the victor4 ,the fields of ,lubieh and the hill-sides of ,hattn were covered with the dying and the dead2 ,count ,raymond1 with the remnant of his followers1 had fled1 and safely reached ',akka2 while the defeated king1 the ,grand ,master of the ,templars1 ,raynald of ,chatillon1 and the ,bishop of ,lydda1 with the ,holy ,cross1 fell into the hands of the ,moslems4 ,conducted to the pavilion of ,saladin1 the distinguished prisoners were received with the respect due their rank1 and with a kindness of demeanor worthy a great warrior4 ,glancing at each as the group stood before him1 he seemed to pity their misfortunes1 till his eye fell on ,raynald1 on whom he bent a look of mingled rage and scorn4 ,having ordered sherbet1 cooled with ice1 to be presented to the king1 and the latter having passed it to ,raynald1 ,saladin said1 8,thou givest him to drink1 not ,i20 which proverbial saying was equivalent to a sentence of death4 ,fixing his eye on the doomed count1 and reminding him of his perfidy1 he offered him pardon if he would embrace the doctrines of the ,prophet2 but1 on ,raynald refusing to renounce his ,christian faith1 the sultan drew his cimeter1 and1 piercing him through1 the guards rushed upon him and dragged him lifeless from the imperial tent4 ,guy1 with the captive princes1 was sent to ,damascus for imprisonment1 and #bcj knights1 both of the ,hospital and the ,temple1 were beheaded in cold blood and without mercy4 ,taking advantage of the destruction of the ,christian army and of the capture of the king1 ,saladin advanced1 and1 after capturing the larger sea-port towns from ,ascalon to ,beirut1 excepting ,tyre1 in less than three months from the battle of ,hattn he was master of all ,palestine1 and on the #c;d of ,october1 #aahg1 he entered the ,holy ,city in triumph4#fbd ,from a scene so ghastly1 yet so lovely1 we journeyed from the ,mount of ,beatitudes to ,nazareth4 ,the path mounts the northwestern shoulder of ,hattn1 and descends to the ,plain of ,lubieh1 where1 on the summit of a low hill1 is a village of the same name4 ,passing to the southwest1 we entered a larger and richer plain1 opening into ,el-,buttauf1 and forming one of those fine plateaus which distinguish the mountain scenery of ,galilee4 ,a mile in width1 it is a vast field of wheat and corn1 and through its centre runs a noble road1 which was thronged with pilgrims4 ,from its western edge a path leads up to ,kefr ,kenna1 the monkish 8,cave of ,galilee40 ,reaching the summit of the ridge at sunset1 the ,carmel range was overspread with a pink haze1 while the castellated heights of ,seffurieh reflected the last rays of the setting sun4 ,nazareth lay at our feet1 surrounded with its ancient hills1 and1 descending the steep declivity1 we entered the town amid the deepening shadows of evening1 and were kindly received by the monks of the ,latin convent4 ,it is a fact no less true than remarkable1 that ,nazareth is without an authentic history older than the ,christian era2 and though1 at the time of the occurrence of the great event which has given immortality to its name1 it was a considerable village1 it is neither mentioned by ,josephus nor the writers of the ,old ,testament4 ,that it was known and generally held in contempt by the people prior to the ,annunciation is evident from the significant question of ,nathaniel1 8,can there any good thing come out of ,nazareth80#fbe ,encompassed by #ae naked hill-tops1 it occupies the western side of an oblong basin1 which is a mile long and a quarter of a mile wide4 ,here1 filling portions of the three ravines which penetrate the highest of the hills1 the town is built4 ,constructed of limestone1 the buildings are cleaner and neater than those of any other ,syrian village4 ,out of a population of #djjj souls1 more than three fourths are ,christians4 ,under their enlightened influence ,nazareth is increasing in wealth and numbers1 and is now the capital of the district4 ,as if conscious of their superior numbers1 intelligence1 wealth1 and piety1 the ,christians assert and defend their rights4 ,in nearly all other parts of ,palestine the ,christians are cringing and fearful1 but the ,nazarenes are not afraid either to measure swords or creeds with the followers of the ,prophet4 ,the whole town wears an aspect of genuine thrift and business prosperity1 and the number of thriving schools1 filled with pupils1 is the best evidence of a free and enlightened ,christianity4 ,supported by the ,protestant ,mission of ,jerusalem1 these schools are furnished with all the appliances requisite to success2 and the hundreds of children annually educated can not fail to change the sentiments of the public1 and heighten the tone of morals and piety in the city of our ,lord's childhood4 ,illustration3 ,,nazareth4 ,the chief objects of interest in ,nazareth are the legendary sites connected with the history of the holy family4 ,strangely enough1 the ,greeks and ,latins contend for separate and rival localities as the scene of the ,annunciation4 ,in the southeastern portion of the town is the ,latin convent1 covering the traditional grotto where ,mary stood when she received the salutation of the angel4 ,the monastery is a square1 heavy building1 encompassed by a high stone wall1 and is entered through a massive gate4 ,along the sides of an interior court are the school-rooms1 the pharmacy1 and the apartments of the superior4 ,the interior of the church is a square of #gj feet1 and consists of a nave and aisles formed by four large piers1 on which rests the vaulted roof4 ,the columns and walls are covered with canvas1 painted in imitation of tapestry1 and illustrative of ,scripture scenes4 ,among the pictures is one representing the marriage of ,joseph and ,mary1 and another portraying the appearing of the angel to the husband of the ,virgin4 ,a flight of #ae steps leads down to the sacred grotto1 which is #bj feet long1 as many wide1 and #aj deep4 ,the sides are incased with marble1 and on the altar1 which is of the same material1 are seven vases of flowers1 and over it are nine silver lamps1 which are kept perpetually burning4 ,behind the altar is a large and excellent picture of the ,annunciation1 a gift of the ,emperor of ,austria4 ,to the right of the altar a small door opens into the remaining portion of the grotto1 which has been left in its natural state1 and from this apartment a staircase leads up into a low rude cave1 called the 8,virgin ,mary's ,kitchen40 ,this grotto is said to have been beneath the house and home of ,mary4 ,not content with the possession of a site so precious1 the ,franciscan monks pretend to have rescued from oblivion the 8,workshop of ,joseph40 ,it is a small arched chapel1 plain and neat1 and1 though a modern structure1 is sanctified by a fragment of an old wall1 a portion of the veritable 8shop40 ,above the altar is a good painting representing ,joseph at work4 ,he is represented as leaning upon the handle of his axe2 the youthful ,savior is sitting near him reading from the ,prophets1 while ,mary occupies a less conspicuous place4 ,still another picture adorns the walls of this humble chapel4 ,joseph is at work at his bench2 ,jesus is assisting his father by holding one end of the chalk-line while the latter is snapping it2 and ,mary is sitting opposite them1 industriously at work with her needle4 ,as the rivals of the ,latins1 the ,greeks have identified the site of the angelic salutation on the eastern side of the town1 and over the 8,fountain of the ,virgin0 have erected their 8,church of the ,annunciation40 ,without exterior elegance1 it is a low structure1 with arched ceiling supported by small square piers4 ,in the east end is an altar-screen of wood1 elaborately carved1 on the panels of which are painted ,bible scenes4 ,in the opposite end is a large latticed screen1 separating that portion of the church which is allotted to women from the main part of the edifice4 ,in the north end is a recess occupied by the nuns1 and over the entrance is a splendid picture of the ,annunciation4 ,mary is represented as standing by a fountain1 modest and attentive1 and of a lovely form2 near her is the ,angel ,gabriel1 in the act of salutation2 while above them is the august form of the ,divine ,father1 with outspread hands1 bestowing his gracious benediction4 ,near this church1 and at the base of a hill1 is the outlet of the sacred fountain1 which the ,greeks claim to be the veritable spring to which ,mary was accustomed to come for water1 and where she was saluted by the angel4 ,having its source beneath the church1 the water is conducted to this spot through a stone aqueduct1 where1 from under a rude arch1 it flows into a marble trough4 ,though not perennial1 yet1 as this is the chief fountain of the city1 and as it probably existed during the residence of the holy family1 it was1 no doubt1 often visited by the mother of our ,lord4 ,the legend that the salutation was given at a spring is derived from the apocryphal ,gospels1 especially the one bearing the name of ,st4 ,james4 ,following the example of ,mary1 the beautiful maidens of ,nazareth resort to this famous fountain not only for water1 but for the more agreeable objects of conversation and courtship4 ,coming from the 8,church of the ,annunciation0 at the hour of vespers1 ,i witnessed a scene here as novel as it was interesting4 ,from twenty to thirty maidens were waiting to fill their long earthen pitchers from the crystal spring4 ,attired in a style as neat as it was elegant1 they wore close-fitting jackets of different colors1 long pointed veils of perfect whiteness1 and head-dresses of silver coins4 ,their forms were straight and symmetrical1 their features regular and handsome1 their hair full and black1 their eyes dark and lustrous1 and their complexion of a soft brunette4 ,waiting their turn to the fountain1 they laughed and chatted merrily together1 and1 gracefully poising the pitcher on head or shoulder1 they seemed to regard the labor a delight rather than a task4 ,celebrated for their beauty1 an old writer ascribes it to the special favor of ,mary4 ,the only other great event connected with our ,lord's life in ,nazareth1 and which could have had 8a local habitation and a name10 is his sermon in the synagogue1 and the subsequent attempt of his townsmen to thrust him from the brow of the hill4 ,unwilling that any site should perish1 the ,latins pretend to have identified the one and the other4 ,that which is shown as the site of the former may possibly be correct1 but the 8inventors of sacred places0 have displayed less discrimination in the selection of the latter than in their choice of other localities4 ,selecting it for its precipitous appearance1 as it overhangs the ,plain of ,esdraelon1 the monks have designated a rugged mountain two miles to the southeast from ,nazareth as the 8,mount of ,precipitation40 ,but while the height and steepness of this mountain might have answered the murderous purpose of the ,nazarenes1 yet it is too distant to be in keeping with the letter of the text4 ,with his accustomed minuteness1 ,st4 ,luke gives a simple narration of the facts of that premeditated tragedy3 8,and all they in the synagogue1 when they heard these things1 were filled with wrath1 and rose up and thrust him out of the city1 and led him unto the brow of the hill whereupon their city was built1 that they might cast him down headlong40#fbf ,the lofty hill to the west of the town corresponds1 in its relative location1 to that of the city1 and is more in harmony with the inspired narrative4 ,with ,nazareth at its base1 covering its lower spurs and creeping up its ravines1 it rises to the height of #ejj feet4 ,its sides are steep and covered with white limestone rocks1 and1 though not smooth1 it is not sufficiently uneven to arrest one's fall4 ,once started downward by a violent push1 no human power could resist the force or avert the catastrophe4 ,desiring to test the difficulty of the descent1 ,i found it impossible to descend with safety except by placing my feet in the fissures of the rocks4 ,with a meekness which was the more remarkable because of its exalted purpose1 the ,master suffered the infuriated mob to hurry him through the crowded streets1 and up through one of the ravines1 to the brow of the hill1 where1 by a display of his wondrous power1 he released himself from their grasp1 and1 8passing through the midst of them1 went his way40 ,from the summit of this hill not only is one of the noblest views in ,palestine obtained1 but it is the best place for pious reflection4 ,reaching the highest point in half an hour1 we found thereon the ruined wely of ,neby ,isma'il1 and around it were growing the beautiful amaranth and other kinds of ,syrian flowers4 ,the wind blew strongly from the sea1 which1 together with a hazy sky1 lessened the enjoyment of the hour2 but the wide and glorious prospect was before us4 ,there was ,tabor1 with its oaken groves2 the 8,mountains of ,gilead10 with the brown plateau of ,pella2 the ,plain of ,esdraelon1 with its graceful undulations and memorable cities2 the ,hills of ,samaria1 green and rolling2 the long range of ,carmel1 crowned with its wealthy convent1 and casting its deep shadow into the ,bay of ,haifa1 where the navies of ,europe were riding at anchor2 the ,plain of ',akka1 where 8,asher dipped his foot in oil1 and yielded royal dainties20 the wide sea1 8dotted with many a sail20 the intervening hills1 all wooded and sinking down in gentle slopes into winding valleys of the richest verdure2 the ,plain of ,el-,buttauf1 and the ,crusaders' ,castle of ,seffurieh2 the long ridges of the ,galilean ,hills running up toward ,safed1 8the city set upon a hill20 and rising above them all in grandeur was ,hermon1 with its mighty dome of snowy whiteness sparkling in the sun like a crown of glory4 ,contracting the scope of the vision1 the wandering eye returned and rested on the immortal village1 quietly nestling at the mountain's base4 ,it is ,nazareth6 ,how the sacred associations throng the mind6 ,how the imagination is tempted to picture scenes which must have occurred1 but which are not recorded6 ,the theme is too divine for fancy4 ,the same infinite wisdom is displayed in what is not written as is manifested in what is recorded4 ,lift not the veil that the ,father has drawn over the thirty years of seclusion of his ,son1 nor attempt to be wise above that which is written4 ,it is enough that in this mountain village lived ,mary and ,joseph2 that here they loved and were betrothed2 that by its spring1 or in its fields1 or in her quiet home1 ere came the marriage-day1 8,gabriel was sent from ,god unto a city of ,galilee1 named ,nazareth1 to a virgin espoused to a man whose name was ,joseph1 of the house of ,david2 and the virgin's name was ,mary4 ,and the angel came in unto her and said ,hail6 thou art highly favored2 the ,lord is with thee2 blessed art thou among women20 that twice after the annunciation ,mary ascended from her native vale1 and1 crossing these same hills1 she journeyed southward into ,judeaonce to visit her cousin ,elizabeth1 and again to give a ,savior to the world2 and that1 after the presentation in the ,temple1 hither the holy family returned to the duties and enjoyments of private life4#fbg ,with one solitary allusion1 the silence of thirty years remains unbroken as to the life of ,jesus prior to his public ministry4 ,subject to his parents1 here he resided1 treading these streets1 wandering over these hills1 and from this commanding summit beholding the same panorama which now is before us4 ,the imagination pictures his childhood as lovely1 his youth retiring and meditative1 his manhood studious1 youthful1 and devout4 ,here were spent the years of preparation1 and from a city without a history he went forth on the most benevolent mission that ever fell to the lot of manto teach the sublimest truths1 to illustrate the purest character1 to die as no other man could die1 and to establish a kingdom of righteousness1 truth1 and peace4 ,only twice is he known to have returned to the 8city where he had been brought up20 once when rejected by his townsmen1#fbh and again when he was met with the taunt1 8,is not this the carpenter1 the son of ,mary1 the brother of ,james1 and ,joses1 and of ,simon1 and ,judas8 and are not his sisters with us80#fbi ,unable to do many 8mighty works there because of their unbelief10 he abandoned ,nazareth forever1 and1 choosing ,capernaum as his 8adopted city10 he was received with joy by the delighted people4#fcj ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,phnicia4 ,its ,extent and ,fertility4 ,origin of the ,phnicians4 ,their ,commerce4 ,their ,learning4 ,departure from ,nazareth4 ,cana of ,galilee4 ,first ,christian ,wedding4 ,beautiful ,vale of ,abiln4 ,plain of ,accho4 ,city of ',akka4 ,names4 ,metropolis of the ,crusaders4 ,their ,destruction4 ,gibbon4 ,the ,moslem ,nero4 ,napoleon's ,defeat4 ,road to ,tyre4 ,summer ,palace4 ,excavations4 ,wild and dangerous ,pass4 ,antiquity of ,tyre4 ,three ,tyres4 ,stupendous ,water-works4 ,continental ,tyre4 ,sins and ,judgments4 ,glory departed4 ,how ,prophecy was fulfilled4 ,insular ,tyre4 ,tyre of the ,crusaders4 ,cathedral4 ,tomb of ,hiram4 ,wonderful ,temple4 ,sarepta4 ,zidon4 ,gardens4 ,ancient ,glory4 ,wars4 ,harbor4 ,citadel4 ,tombs4 ,interesting ,discoveries4 ,ornaments4 ,,historically1 the ,holy ,land is divided into three great sections,palestine1 ,philistia1 and ,phnicia4 ,the latter is that long maritime plain stretching for #abj miles from the ,promontory of ,carmel on the south to the ,river ,eleutherus on the north4 ,not exceeding #ab miles in its greatest width1 it is washed by the ,mediterranean on the west1 and is bounded on the east by a mountain barrier1 through which there is but one practicable pass from the 8,ladder of ,tyre0 to the island of ,aradus4#fca ,in addition to numberless streams1 it is watered with the ,rivers ,kishon1 ,leontes1 ,aulay1 ,tamyras1 ,lycus1 ,adonis1 ,hadsha1 and ,eleutherus4 ,deriving its ,greek name from 8a palm10 as significant of its richness1 it is still fruitful where cultivated2 and though only occasionally that celebrated tree is seen1 yet groves of oranges and lemons environ its modern towns4 ,while in its gardens are produced apricots1 peaches1 almonds1 figs1 dates1 the sugar-cane1 and grapes1 which furnish excellent wine1 its mountain slopes are covered with oaks1 pines1 acacias1 tamarisks1 and the majestic cedar4 ,divided into sections by bold promontories projecting far into the sea1 its general surface is undulating1 and its shore-line is indented with small bays1 near which stood those renowned cities which have given celebrity to the whole plain4 ,originally settled by the descendants of ,sidon1 the son of ,canaan1#fcb ,phnicia was included in the promise to ,abraham2 but1 either from inability or unwillingness to expel its powerful and wealthy traders1 it was only nominally possessed by his posterity4 ,the grandeur of that promise1 the sublime purpose of ,jehovah as to the material greatness of his chosen people1 together with the religious mission of the ,jews1 demanded such a maritime possession4 ,had they had the advantages of a powerful navy and of a vast commerce1 ,palestine would have been the leading power on earth1 and would have held the first rank among the mighty nations of antiquity4 ,it is one of those stupendous facts which illustrate the infinite wisdom of ,providence1 and the relations of the ,promised ,land to all the world1 that1 as ,palestine has given to mankind a religion1 ,phnicia is the primeval seat of commerce and letters4 ,from their splendid cities of ,tyre and ,sidon the ,phnicians launched out upon the hitherto unknown ,mediterranean1 and1 having planted colonies on the islands of ,cyprus and ,rhodes1 they sailed into ,greece4 ,emboldened by success1 and charmed with the excitement of a new life1 they turned to the northwest1 and1 having visited ,sicily1 ,sardinia1 and the northern coast of ,spain1 they passed through the ,straits of ,gibraltar1 occupied the ,isle of ,gades1 penetrated as far northward as ,britain1 and returning1 they stretched southward from the ,straits and founded ,carthage1 the formidable rival of ,rome1 and the only one that threatened her destruction4#fcc ,it is a thought as beautiful as it is true1 that1 while holding commercial relations with all the nations on the shores of their native sea1 and on the western coasts of ,europe and ,africa1 and trafficking1 by their caravans1 with ,persia1 ,arabia1 and ,asia1 their intercourse with those distant nations was marked by the blessings of the arts of peace rather than by the calamities of war4 ,attaining the summit of their power and glory in the reign of ,solomon1 how changed would have been the moral aspects of the earth had those early mariners been ,jews1 disseminating a knowledge of the true ,god wherever they planted a colony1 and illustrating a pure worship wherever they sold their 8,tyrian purple40 ,celebrated for their knowledge of architecture and of various mechanic arts1 and also for their learning1 it was from one of these ,phnician cities that ,cadmus went forth1 about #ae centuries ,b4,c41 and laid the foundation of ,grecian literature1 the pride of succeeding ages1 and the glory of modern scholarship4 ,nowhere upon the globe can be found a tract of land so small as this1 where have originated three such powerful agents for 8weal or woe0 to mankind1 and which1 still operating1 are affecting the opinions and moulding the characters of men in all lands4 ,so intimately blended are the events of sacred and profane history connected with all that region extending from the ,hills of ,nazareth to the ,mediterranean1 and from the ,promontory of ,carmel to the mulberry groves of ,sidon1 that the traveler scarcely realizes the transition from ,palestine to ,phnicia4 ,reluctantly leaving those scenes sacred to the life and deeds of our ,lord1 we found ourselves1 at the close of the day1 in the midst of new associations1 dating back to the earliest authentic records4 ,stopping for a moment at the ,fountain of ,seffurieh1 around which ,guy de ,lusignan gathered the heroic ,crusaders on the night previous to the fatal battle of ,hattn1 we ascended the hill of ancient ,sepphoris1 and1 crossing the beautiful plain of ,el-,buttauf1 came to the ruins of ,cana of ,galilee4 ,situated seven miles to the north from ,nazareth1 it occupies a tongue of land extending into the plain1 bounded on either side by a small ravine1 and behind the town rises a rocky1 barren hill4 ,the home of ,nathaniel the apostle1#fcd and the residence of the bride of ,st4 ,john1 here was celebrated the first ,christian wedding on record2 and1 being present as a guest1 here the ,savior performed his first miracle1#fce when 8,the modest water1 awed by power divine1 ,confessed its ,god1 and1 blushing1 turned to wine40 ,here1 at a subsequent visit1 the ,master was met by the 8nobleman of ,capernaum whose son was sick10 and1 though #bj miles distant1 he healed the youth1 and commanded the father1 8,go thy way2 thy son liveth40#fcf ,in the southern valley is a noble circular well1 four feet in diameter1 and probably the same from which the water was drawn for the miracle4 ,an ,arab1 his son1 and two daughters were resting there with their flocks1 and from them we obtained a drink of the delicious water4 ,but ,cana is now a ruin1 and is deserted4 ,not a house remains standing4 ,heaps of fallen buildings are overgrown with grass2 and where the nuptials of the beloved ,john were celebrated the silence of death reigns unbroken1 and rank weeds grow luxuriantly where ,jewish maidens were wont to gather flowers to form the bridal wreath4 ,turning westward1 we entered the glorious ,valley of ,abiln4 ,it is not wide1 nor are the hills that inclose it high2 but it is a scene of surpassing loveliness4 ,here are rolling hills covered with the richest verdure2 wooded glens filled with oaks and acacias2 soft lawns bright with flowers2 running brooks falling over rocks into sparkling cascades1 and birds of rare plumage singing their sweetest songs4 ,soon the sea1 reflecting the sunlight from a smooth surface1 burst like enchantment upon our view4 ,now the valley widens1 the hills recedethey die away1 and we are on the plain of ancient ,accho4 ,carmel is seen to the south1 the ,scala ,tyriorum to the north1 while the ,hills of ,galilee are on the east1 giving to the plain the form of a semicircle1 with the sea-coast for a diameter4 ,eight miles wide and #bj long1 most of it is a marsh in winter1 but a fruitful garden in spring and summer4 ,falling to the lot of ,asher1 here 8he dipped his foot in oil2 his bread was fat1 and he yielded royal dainties20#fcg and 8here he continued on the sea-shore1 and abode in his creeks10#fch when ,deborah called the nations to arms against ,sisera4 ,occupying a triangular neck of land1 with a large bay on the south and the sea on the west1 the town of ',akka is large and well fortified4 ,having a population of #ejjj souls1 four fifths of whom are ,moslems1 it is the residence of the ,pasha1 whose jurisdiction embraces ,nazareth1 ,safed1 ,tiberias1 and ,haifa4 ,regarded as of the first importance as a military position1 it is garrisoned by a strong force4 ,though its massive fortifications1 which were shattered in former wars1 have never been repaired1 its sea-wall1 which is nine feet thick1 is in a good condition1 and is surmounted by several large guns4 ,the buildings of the town are of stone1 built square and high2 the streets are narrow and shaded with matting1 and the only structures of note within the city are the ,mosque of ,jezzr and the ,temple of the ,knights ,hospitallers4 ,the mosque is high and square1 and is surmounted with a balustrade2 the faade is adorned with a fine portico2 the open area within is paved with ,syrian marble1 and is surrounded with an arcade on which are small domes4 ,beneath the palm and fig trees old soldiers and venerable ,turks were reclining in silence4 ,not far from the mosque is the city prison1 consisting of an immense cellar1 dark and loathsome1 in which were #ahj culprits of different ages1 incarcerated for small and great offenses4 ,called by ,samuel ,accho1 by the ,greeks ,ptolemais1 after ,ptolemy1 king of ,egypt1 and by the ,arabs ',akka1 the ,arabic of the scriptural name1 the city is mentioned but twice by the sacred writersonce in connection with the tribe of ,asher1#fci and again as the landing-place of ,st4 ,paul on his way to ,jerusalem4#fdj ,but it derives its chief importance from its relation to modern ,european history4 ,napoleon called it the 8key of ,palestine20 and1 during the last #gjj years1 from ,baldwin to ,napier1 it has been grasped by many a rude hand4 ,as it bears three names1 so it is remarkable for three historical eventsthe destruction of the ,crusaders1 the reign of ,jezzr1 and the defeat of ,napoleon ,i4 8,after the loss of ,jerusalem1 ,acre#fda became the metropolis of the ,latin ,christians1 and was adorned with strong and stately buildings1 with aqueducts1 an artificial port1 and a double wall4 ,the population was increased by the incessant streams of pilgrims and fugitives2 in the pauses of hostility the trade of the ,east and ,west was attracted to this convenient station1 and the market could offer the produce of every clime and the interpreters of every tongue4 ,but in this conflux of nations1 every vice was propagated and practiced4444 ,the city had many sovereigns and no government4 ,the ,kings of ,jerusalem and ,cyprus1 of the house of ,lusignan1 the ,princes of ,antioch1 the ,counts of ,tripoli and ,sidon1 the ,great ,masters of the ,hospital1 the ,temple1 and the ,teutonic order1 the republics of ,venice1 ,genoa1 and ,pisa1 the ,pope's legate1 the ,kings of ,france and ,england1 assumed an independent command2 seventeen tribunals exercised the power of life and death2 every criminal was protected in the adjacent quarter2 and the perpetual jealousy of the nations often burst forth in acts of violence and blood4 ,some adventurers1 who disgraced the ensign of the ,cross1 compensated their want of pay by the plunder of the ,mohammedan villages3 nineteen ,syrian merchants1 who traded under the public faith1 were despoiled and hanged by the ,christians1 and the denial of satisfaction justified the arms of the ,sultan ,khalil4 ,he marched against ,acre at the head of #fj1jjj horse and #adj1jjj foot2 his train of artillery 7if ,i may use the expression7 was numerous and weighty2 the separate timbers of a single engine were transported in #ajj wagons2 and the royal historian ,abulfeda1 who served with the troops of ,hamah1 was himself a spectator of the holy war4 ,whatever might be the vices of the ,franks1 their courage was rekindled by enthusiasm and despair2 but they were torn by the discord of seventeen chiefs1 and overwhelmed on all sides by the powers of the sultan4 ,after a siege of #cc days the double wall was forced by the ,moslems1 the principal tower yielded to their engines1 the ,mamelukes made a general assault1 the city was stormed1 and death or slavery was the lot of #fj1jjj ,christians4 ,the convent1 or rather fortress1 of the ,templars resisted three days longer2 but the great master was pierced with an arrow1 and of #ejj knights only #aj were left alive1 less happy than the victims of the sword if they lived to suffer on the scaffold in the unjust and cruel proscription of the whole order4 ,the ,king of ,jerusalem1 the ,patriarch1 and the ,great ,master of the ,hospital effected their retreat to the shore2 but the sea was rough1 the vessels were insufficient1 and great numbers of the fugitives were drowned before they could reach the ,isle of ,cyprus1 which might comfort ,lusignan for the loss of ,palestine4 ,by the command of the sultan1 the churches and fortifications of the ,latin cities were demolished3 a motive of avarice or fear still opened the holy sepulchre to some devout1 defenseless pilgrims2 and a mournful and solitary silence prevailed along the coast which had so long resounded with the world's debate40#fdb ,illustration3 ,,acre ,,from ,,the ,,east4 ,five centuries later ',akka became the royal city of one of the most infamous characters in history1 whose name is to be mentioned only with that of ,herod1 and whose cruelties constitute him the ,nero of modern times4 ,rising by theft and perjury from the servitude of a common slave to the dignity of a pasha1 ,jezzr8the ,butcher10 dishonored his pashalic with the most inhuman deeds1 perpetrated without cause upon eminent citizens and upon the beautiful slave-girls of his harem4 ,but the city was destined to witness the exploits of the greatest warrior of our age4 ,to the east of the town is a low mound1 where1 in #agii1 the great ,napoleon planted his batteries1 and from the summit of which1 after eight successive assaults1 he witnessed the defeat of his army1 and with that defeat disappeared forever all his bright visions of an ,eastern empire4 ,the distance from ,acre to ancient ,tyre is #be miles1 and the journey is replete with interest4 ,mounting our horses at #aa ,a4,m41 our path lay along the western border of the ,plain of ,phnicia4 ,in less than half an hour we passed beneath the ,aqueduct of ,jezzr1 supported by #ajj arches4 ,through the neglect of a people who are indifferent to works of art1 it is now a ruin1 and in part overgrown with weeds4 ,two miles beyond is the summer palace of the late ,abdallah ,pasha4 ,sixty cypresses line the road-side1 and within an inclosed garden1 in the midst of orange and lemon trees1 is the charming residence4 ,passing the site of ,achzib1 a town allotted to ,asher1#fdc we reached1 in an hour1 the ,scala ,tyriorum1 or 8,tyrian ,ladder10 forming the boundary-line between ,phnicia and the ,holy ,land4 ,a bold promontory1 with a white base dipping into the sea1 it is the most southern root of ,lebanon1 and is the counterpart of ,carmel4 ,sprinkled with shrubs and dotted with tufts of grass1 its sides are broken and stony4 ,the path over it is zigzag1 and not unlike a flight of winding steps4 ,the descent down the opposite side is exceedingly rough1 now over low mountain spurs1 and again through a narrow defile leading to a plain below4 ,passing over sections of an old ,roman road1 we came to the village of ,nkrah1 and to the east of it1 high up in the mountain ravines1 was a company of ,french soldiers excavating a buried city which has neither name nor story4 ,they had succeeded in uncovering one temple and a number of elegant sarcophagi1 but no inscriptions had been discovered by which to ascertain the origin of the unknown town4 ,two miles to the north we came to the white cliffs of ,ras el-,abyad1 or the ,promontorium ,album of the ancients4 ,this is one of the wildest1 and1 at times1 the most dangerous passes on the ,phnician coast4 ,the sides of the bluff are perpendicular1 and the waves dash wildly against its base4 ,the path is cut in the white limestone rocks #ejj feet above the level of the sea1 and in places it skirts the very verge of the precipice4 ,huge boulders have fallen from the cliffs above1 and others seem ready to follow4 ,excited by the grandeur of the scene and the danger of the moment1 we successfully cleared the pass in half an hour1 when we gained our first view of the plain and peninsula of ,tyre4 ,descending rapidly to the plain below1 the dreariness of the journey was relieved by the glorious appearance of ,hermon1 whose snow-capped summits were bright in the evening light1 while the plain over which we rode was darkened by the shadows of the adjacent mountains4 ,traveling on for hours over the deep sandy beach1 we reached ,ras el-',ain in the dusk of the evening1 and an hour after entered the solitary gate of the renowned city of the ancient ,tyrians4 ,illustration3 ,,ladder ,,of ,,tyre4 ,few cities can boast of a higher antiquity1 of grander edifices1 and of greater renown than ,tyre4 ,founded by the ,phnicians1 rebuilt by the ,romans1 and again restored by the ,christians1 there have been three ,tyres1 the history of each of which would fill a volume4 ,called by ,isaiah the 8daughter of ,sidon10#fdd it was a 8strong city0 in the days of ,joshua2#fde it was the ally of ,solomon2#fdf and it was a prize coveted by ,shalmanezer1 ,nebuchadnezzar1 and ,alexander the ,great4 ,the cradle of commerce1 ,tyre became the mistress of the seas2 her merchantmen traded in every port in the known world1 and from her thriving shores she sent forth her sons1 dotting the coasts of ,europe and ,africa with flourishing colonies4 ,nothing can excel the accuracy of detail and the elegance of graphic description contained in the #bgth chapter of ,ezekiel on the wealth and glory of ,tyre2 and now1 after the lapse of twenty-five centuries1 her scattered ruins attest the truth of prophecy4 ,her walls are destroyed1 her towers broken down1 her stones and timber are in the midst of the water1 her ancient site is 8a place for the spreading of nets in the midst of the sea10 and the remains of her marble castles1 gorgeous palaces1 triple gateways1 lofty towers1 and spacious harbors are now seen half buried beneath the drifting sand or washed by the restless waves4 ,entering a small boat1 and passing out of the inner basin into the larger harbor1 we saw immense columns of red granite lying prostrate beneath the surface of the clear water1 and others imbedded in the solid rock1 or cemented together by some powerful agent4 ,illustration3 ,,tyre4 ,the ,sidonian colonists who founded ,phnician or ,continental ,tyre evidently settled on the main land1 three miles to the south from the modern city1 and a quarter of a mile from the shore4 ,here1 at ,ras el-',ain1 8the ,fountain-head10 are the most stupendous water-works of ancient times4 ,they consist of four immense fountains1 the water of which descends through the mountains on the east1 and1 rising to the surface here1 is collected into separate reservoirs1 from which it was originally distributed to irrigate the plain4 ,the most southern of these fountains is the largest4 ,octagonal in form1 it is #ff feet in diameter and #be high4 ,the lateral walls are eight feet thick1 and gently slope to their base4 ,three hundred feet to the eastward are the other cisterns1 one #cf and two #fj feet square1 constructed of well-dressed stones1 joined by a fine cement1 and built directly over the places where the water gushes up from the earth4 ,formerly the stream was carried from the lower to the upper pools by an aqueduct which is now a ruin2 and from the upper reservoirs there can now be traced an old ,roman aqueduct1 resting on arches1 to a mound two miles distant1 crowned with the remains of a massive building1 from which point it turns westward toward the city4 ,amid a thicket of willows and groves of mulberry-trees are a few wretched huts1 and the only use to which this great water-power is now applied is to drive a single mill and slake the thirst of the transient traveler4 ,illustration3 ,,ras ,,el-',,ain4 ,though they are unquestionably of a high antiquity1 the author and finisher of these great works are unknown4 ,there is an ,arab legend that ,alexander the ,great constructed a subterranean canal through which he brought the water from ,bagdad6 but a more pious tradition ascribes them to ,solomon4 ,quoting ,menander the ,ephesian1 ,josephus informs us that they existed in the days of ,shalmanezer1 who1 in his siege of ,tyre1 8placed guards at the rivers and aqueducts to hinder the ,tyrians from drawing water40#fdg ,around these fountains1 and stretching northward over this fertile plain1 stood the old city of ,tyre4 ,though neither temple nor column remains to mark the site1 yet beneath the drifted sands of many centuries lie entombed those magnificent ruins which have escaped the hand of the spoiler1 and which1 of late1 have been uncovered in part near the hill called ,tell ,habeish4 ,during the reign of ,hiram1 ,palai-,tyrus consisted of two parts1 the larger and grander standing near the fountains on the main land1 and the smaller on an island three miles to the north and not far from the shore4#fdh ,it was by retiring to this island that the inhabitants were enabled to maintain the defense of their insular city against the attack by ,shalmanezer during a period of five years4#fdi ,though subsequently besieged by ,nebuchadnezzar for #ac years1 yet it was reserved for the son of ,philip to be the scourge of ,providence1 the destroyer of the city1 and the accomplisher of prophecy4 ,the continental city falling an easy prey to the victorious arms of ,alexander the ,great1 he laid siege to the insular town for seven months4 ,to capture this strong-hold1 he removed a large portion of the materials of the former place1 and with them built a causeway connecting the island with the continent4 ,advancing on this new military road1 he took the city by storm2 and1 having slain #hjjj of the citizens in the attack1 he crucified #bjjj others1 and sold #cj1jjj more into slavery4 ,thus terminated the wonderful history of ,phnician ,tyre1 whose wealth was equaled only by her luxury1 and whose power was excelled only by her pride4 ,abandoned to the worst forms of idolatry1 she incurred the displeasure of an offended ,god2 intoxicated with prosperity1 she broke her 8covenant0 with the ,hebrews1 and confederated with other nations against them2#fej haughty as she was impious1 she scrupled not to demand the wealth and sacred ornaments of the ,temple at ,jerusalem1 which the enemies of the ,jews had sacrilegiously pillaged2#fea forgetting the covenant with ,david and ,solomon1 she purchased the ,jewish captives from their conquerors1 and1 loading her vessels with the human cargo1 sold them into slavery in distant countries2#feb and when ,nebuchadnezzar had utterly destroyed the ,holy ,city1 and had subdued and wasted all the lands of the ,jews1 she exulted over their downfall1 and insultingly exclaimed1 8,aha6 she is broken that was the gates of the people2 she is turned unto me2 ,i shall be replenished now that she is laid waste40#fec ,for these sins ,god denounced against ,tyre the severest judgments1 and to-day she is a mournful proof of the accuracy and fulfillment of prophecy4 ,her royal palaces have given place to the abodes of poverty2 her magnificent navy1 with sails of embroidered linen from ,egypt and ivory benches from the ,isle of ,chittim1 has been exchanged for a few crazy fishing-boats2 her famous mariners from ,sidon and ,arvad are superseded by boatmen whose nautical knowledge is not equal to a cruise on the ,mediterranean five miles from land2 and her vast commerce in the precious metals of ,tarshish1 the slaves of ,javan1 the horses of ,togarmah1 the coral and agate of ,syria1 the wheat of ,minnith1 the wine of ,helbon1 the spices of ,sheba1 the cassia and calamus of ,dan1 the precious clothes for chariots of ,dedan1 and the fine fleeces of ,arabia1 has dwindled down to an occasional cargo of millstones and juniper charcoal4 ,even her hill-sides1 once rich in olive-groves1 are now forsaken2 and such have been the incursions of the sea1 that the once fertile plain of ,tyre has been transformed into a sandy waste1 and she who was the 8perfection of beauty is now smitten with baldness20 in her unrelieved desolation1 her harps of gold and enchanting minstrelsy are forever silent1 and winds and waves alone lament her departed glory4 ,so complete is the ruin of the primal city1 and so difficult to determine with exactitude the site of the ,phnician ,tyre1 that it is still true1 8,thou shalt be no more2 though thou be sought for1 yet shalt thou never be found again1 saith the ,lord ,god40#fed ,in removing the materials of the old town to fill up the arm of the sea between the island and main land1 ,alexander the ,great fulfilled these astonishing words3 8,they shall break down thy walls and destroy thy pleasant houses2 and they shall lay thy stones1 and thy timber1 and thy dust in the midst of the water40#fee ,and1 as significant of the utterness of her ruin1 the traveler of to-day beholds what the prophet saw in the heavenly vision2 8,i will make thee like the top of a rock2 thou shalt be a place to spread nets upon2 thou shalt be built no more40#fef ,while the words1 8,thou shalt be built no more10 are singularly and literally true when applied to ,continental ,tyre1 yet the island city1 which was not included in the prophetic denunciation1 rose to great elegance under the ,romans4 ,attaining to somewhat of the pristine splendor of the parent city in the first century1 it resumed in part its ancient sway over the sea4 ,receiving ,christianity at an early period1 it was visited by ,st4 ,paul when on his way to ,jerusalem1 8who1 finding disciples1 we tarried there seven days40#feg ,seized by the ,arabs in #fch ,a4,d41 it remained in their possession till ,june #bg1 #aabd1 when it was captured by the ,crusaders1 who held it for #aej years1 when it fell again into the hands of the ,moslems on the evening of the day on which ',akka was captured4 ,declining under their withering sceptre1 at the close of the #agth century it was without a house1 and its vaults were occupied by a few fishermen4#feh ,under the fanatical ,metawileh1 in #agff it was partially restored4 ,modern ,tyre is a village of #djjj inhabitants1 equally divided in their religious faith between ,christ and ,mohammed4 ,what was once ,alexander's causeway is now a sandy isthmus1 and what was once an island is now a peninsula4 ,originally extremely narrow1 but increased by the action of the winds and waves upheaving the loose sands1 the isthmus is half a mile wide1 and that which was formerly the island is a ridge of rocks parallel to the shore1 nearly a mile long1 three quarters of a mile broad1 and half a mile distant from the coast-line4 ,the general surface is uneven1 in part strewn by rocks1 and in part encumbered by the accumulation of rubbish4 ,the present town occupies the northwestern portion of the peninsula1 and is near the ancient harbor4 ,a single gate admits the traveler to the city4 ,around it are the remains of old towers1 and near it are two deep wells1 from which the inhabitants obtain their principal supply of water4 ,with few exceptions the buildings are mere hovels1 the streets narrow and crooked1 and the citizens filthy and ignorant4 ,as if to hide the fallen glory of ,tyre1 there are a few palms and pride of ,india trees growing in the gardens4 ,within the shattered walls and along the shore fishermen were mending their nets1 and in the gloomy bazars were a few bales of cotton and tobacco1 several tiers of millstones1 and heaps of charcoal4 ,the ,moslems have a mosque crowned with two domes1 and from beside it rises a tapering minaret2 the ,christians have two small churches1 which are remarkable neither for their size nor elegance4 ,in the southeast corner of the town are the remains of the famous ,cathedral of ,tyre1 erected in the fourth century by ,bishop ,paulinus1 and consecrated by ,eusebius1 and by the latter described as the most splendid of all the temples of ,phnicia4 ,it was #baf feet long by #acf broad1 and its ruins indicate its great magnificence4 ,the south wall1 the east and west ends1 together with the chancel1 remain standing2 but the arched roof1 the massive columns which supported the triforium1 and the lofty tower1 with its spiral staircase1 have fallen into a thousand fragments4 ,somewhere within these broken walls reposes the dust of ,origen and of the ,emperor ,frederick ,barbarossa4 ,five miles to the east of the town is the ,tomb of ,hiram1 king of ,tyre4 ,it is an imposing mausoleum1 and one of the most interesting monuments in the ,holy ,land4 ,it is less remarkable for its beauty and ornaments than for its grandeur and durability4 ,crowning a graceful hill1 it consists of a pedestal and a sarcophagus4 ,the former is composed of four layers of immense blocks of limestone1 about ten feet high2 the latter is hewn out of a solid block1 and is twelve feet long1 eight wide1 and six high1 and is surmounted with a pyramidal lid five feet thick4 ,the ends of the lid are beveled1 the top rounded1 and it is fitted on with such care that it is difficult to remove it4 ,on the north side of the monument is an arched vault #bj feet square and #ab deep1 which no doubt served as the place for the final repose of the royal family4 ,commanding a view of the ,city of the ,great ,king1 and of the sea beyond1 the country around the tomb is strangely solitary2 neither ancient ruin nor human habitation is near1 but1 standing alone1 it is at once a venerable relic of the past and an impressive monument of the loneliness of death4 ,illustration3 ,,tomb ,,of ,,hiram4 ,on the same road1 but some distance to the west1 the ,french have excavated one of the most splendid temples yet discovered in the environs of ,phnicia4 ,consisting of a nave1 two side aisles1 a chancel1 and an altar-piece1 it is #ge feet long by #cf wide4 ,the roof and portions of the walls are gone4 ,of the #ad columns which formed the aisles only the bases of #aa of them remain1 on each of which is sculptured the ,maltese cross4 ,but its great beauty consists in its magnificent mosaic pavement1 covering more than two thirds of the entire area4 ,formed of small square blocks of white and black marble1 it is arranged in the most curious manner4 ,in the aisles are circles #cj inches in diameter1 containing figures of sheep1 fish1 fowls1 fruits1 tigers1 elephants1 buffaloes1 dogs1 horses1 rabbits1 deer1 lions1 antelopes1 and leopards1 together with ten mythological busts1 representing the gods and goddesses of ,greece and ,rome4 ,before the high altar is a lengthy inscription in ,greek characters2 but1 owing to their curious forms and the numerous contractions1 it was impossible to decipher it without reference to learned works4 ,from all that we could learn from those having the work in charge1 it was originally a heathen temple1 was converted into a ,christian church by the ,crusaders1 and1 abandoned during the medival wars1 it has since remained buried beneath the accumulated sand and rubbish of centuries4 ,a single historic site breaks the monotony of the journey from ,tyre to ,sidon1 a distance of #be miles4 ,the path follows the coast along the ,plain of ,phnicia1 over which 8a mournful and solitary silence now prevails40#fei ,while the hills which bound it on the east are carefully cultivated1 and the summits thereof are adorned with villages1 this vast and rich plain is deserted4 ,less than two miles from the gate of ,tyre we passed a large fountain1 believed by the ,arabs to possess medicinal virtues1 and four miles beyond we came to the banks of the ,leontes of the old geographers1 and the ,nahr el-,ksimyeh of the natives4 ,the third largest river in ,syria1 its highest source is not far from the ruins of ,ba'albek2 and draining the southern section of the ,buk'a1 with the adjoining sides of the ,lebanon and anti-,lebanon1 it bursts the everlasting gates of the former1 and1 descending through a wild ravine1 crosses the plain to the sea4 ,it is twenty-five feet wide2 its clear waters flow rapidly through a deep gorge1 which is now spanned by a modern bridge1 having a single arch4 ,nine miles to the north is ,khan el-,khudr1 the ,zarephath of the ,old ,testament and the ,sarepta of the ,new4 ,on a fine hill overhanging the plain is the large town of ,srafend1 the ,arabic of the ,scriptural name4 ,the original city stood near the shore2 its site is now marked by a ,mohammedan tomb and a noble fig-tree4 ,driven by famine from his retreat by the 8brook ,cherith that is before ,jordan10 hither ,elijah came1 and was received into the house of that poor widow whose 8barrel of meal wasted not1 neither did the cruise of oil fail10 and whose son1 as a reward of faith and charity1 the prophet raised to life4#ffj ,and here an early tradition has preserved the site of that touching scene of the meeting of ,christ and the woman of ,syro-,phnicia1 whose daughter he healed during his first and only visit 8to the coasts of ,tyre and ,sidon40#ffa ,ten miles to the north appeared the towers and minarets of ,zidon1 surrounded with the most luxuriant gardens in the world4 ,in the intervening distance sections of the old ,roman road can still be traced1 and along the highway are several milestones4 ,on one are inscribed the names of ,septimius ,severus and his son1 ,m4 ,aurelius ,antoninus1 better known in history as ,caracalla4 ,the inscription bears the date of #aih ,a4,d4 ,entering the famous gardens of the modern ,saida1 we rode for an hour through lengthened avenues of acacias and tamarisks1 and amid mulberry groves1 and vast orchards of peaches1 pears1 apricots1 plums1 quinces1 oranges1 lemons1 bananas1 and citrons1 which filled the air with a delightful fragrance1 and presented to the eye a variety of finely-tinted and exquisite foliage4 ,interspersed through these beautiful groves are country seats possessing all the charms of an earthly paradise4 ,our rural path terminated at the very gate of the city1 which was carefully guarded by ,turkish soldiers4 ,entering the town1 we found it situated on a small promontory projecting obliquely into the sea4 ,thoroughly ,oriental in character and appearance1 its narrow1 shaded streets and groups of trees give it an air of repose4 ,while many of its buildings are small1 like those in most ,syrian towns1 there are several large and costly4 ,the population is not less than #aj1jjj1 and is composed of ,moslems1 ,maronites1 ,greeks1 and ,jews4 ,the chief vocations of the citizens are the cultivation of fruits and the manufacture of oil and silk1 which are exported into ,egypt and to ports along the ,mediterranean4 ,illustration3 ,,sidon4 ,with an antiquity anterior to authentic history1 ,sidon is among the oldest of known cities4 ,mentioned by the inspired historian in connection with ,sodom and ,gaza1#ffb it is supposed it was founded by ,sidon1 the grandson of ,noah4#ffc ,increasing in wealth and power1 the city had achieved such fame at the time the ,hebrews entered ,canaan that it is designated by ,joshua the 8,great ,zidon40#ffd ,as early as the ,trojan war the ,sidonians were celebrated for their skill in the arts1 especially for the manufacture of gorgeous robes1 to which ,homer alludes3 8,the ,phrygian queen to her rich wardrobe went1 ,where treasured odors breathed a costly scent2 ,there lay the vestures of no vulgar art1 ,sidonian maids embroidered every part1 ,whom from soft ,sidon youthful ,paris bore1 ,with ,helen touching on the ,tyrian shore4 ,here1 as the queen revolved1 with careful eyes1 ,the various textures and the various dyes1 ,she chose a veil that shone superior far1 ,and glow'd refulgent as the morning star40#ffe ,increasing in population and commerce to such a degree as to demand another city1 the ,sidonians passed down the coast and founded ,tyre1 which is called by ,isaiah the 8daughter of ,zidon10 and which in after years divided with the parent city the empire of the seas4#fff ,excelling all other nations of that period in art and science1 her architects were employed by ,solomon in building his magnificent temple4#ffg ,according to early historians1 the ,sidonians were versed in astronomy1 geometry1 and philosophy1 and the vastness of their commerce evinces their knowledge of navigation4 ,but with them1 as with all the other great nations of antiquity1 the usual vices attended their prosperity1 and the increase of luxury was counterbalanced by the decline of national virtue4 ,practicing the worst forms of idolatry1 indulging in the grossest immoralities1 and violating the most solemn treaties with ,god's people1 they drew down upon themselves the severe denunciations of ,jehovah's prophets4 ,sentenced by the ,lord to the calamities of war1 the prophetic judgments were executed by ,shalmanezer in #gbj ,b4,c42 by ,artaxerxes ,ochus four centuries later2 by ,alexander the ,great1 who entered the gates of the city without a struggle2 and subsequently it has been pillaged and destroyed as often as rebuilt1 by the ,ptolemies1 the ,syrian kings1 the ,romans1 the ,moslem invaders1 the ,crusaders1 until at present its port is without a merchantman1 and the town of ,beirt1 to the north1 has become the successful rival of the once affluent and powerful ,sidon4 ,the three great objects of interest connected with the modern town are the harbor1 the citadel1 and the tombs4 ,the harbor is formed by a low ridge of rocks running parallel to the shore and extending out from the northern point of the peninsula4 ,on the rocks stands an old castle1 weather-beaten and much dilapidated1 connected with the main land by a bridge of nine arches4 ,on a commanding hill to the south of the city is the shattered tower of ,louis ,,ix41 which is now the citadel of the town4 ,on the plains and in the hill-sides to the east of ,sidon is the cemetery of its ancient inhabitants1 called ,mgharet ,tubloon4 ,the surface of the rock has been cut away to form a perfect level1 and here are the mansions of the dead1 arranged in the form of catacombs1 from #aj to #cj feet below the surface of the ground4 ,from a deep1 broad avenue1 doors open into lateral halls and rooms1 in which are cut the receptacles for the dead4 ,descending to the depth of #bj feet1 we entered a broad avenue #be feet long1 which had just been opened4 ,running at right angles with the former was a spacious passageway1 in the sides of which are six niches1 each five and a half feet deep1 four wide1 and ten long4 ,in these niches are magnificent marble sarcophagi1 their sides1 ends1 and lids being adorned with sculptured lion heads1 horns of plenty1 and garlands of flowers4 ,on one1 which ,i took to be the sarcophagus of a queen1 is carved the bust of a female in relief1 surrounded with a wreath of roses4 ,passing into another chamber1 more elegant than the rest1 and which is #bj feet deep1 ,i traced the beautiful floral paintings on the sides and ceilings of the vault4 ,here1 in the very centre of the floor1 are three entire sarcophagi1 of equal grandeur with the others1 measuring eight feet long1 three wide1 and as many deep4 ,the largest of the three1 which had that day been uncovered for the first time1 was filled with clear water1 and on the bottom were human bones1 and what appeared to be a fine sedimentperhaps the dust of the departed4 ,how the water came there remains a mystery4 ,some suppose it had percolated through the rocks above2 but this will hardly account for the equally remarkable fact that the other sarcophagi are dry4 ,neither inscription nor symbol had been discovered revealing the name and history of the dead1 and ,i was left to the reflection that ,i was gazing upon the disorganized forms of those who had lived and died nearly #djjj years ago4 ,several sarcophagi have been removed to a museum of antiquities within the city4 ,male and female figures are sculptured on them1 the faces of the former resembling the facial features of ,nero1 and of the latter those of ,minerva4 ,among the relics is a leaden coffin beautifully moulded with beaded work1 flowers1 and leonine heads2 and in the 8,cabinet of ,ancient ,coins and ,curiosities0 are a ,phnician tear-bottle1 gold rings1 gold coins of the age of ,alexander1 a ,crusader's silver cross which was worn in battle1 and many rare jewels of great intrinsic value4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,mountains of ,lebanon4 ,grand ,scenery4 ,sublime ,view4 ,mountain ,traveling4 ,scriptural ,allusions4 ,cedars of ,lebanon4 ,their ,number1 ,appearance1 and symbolic ,character4 ,population of the ,mountains4 ,districts and ,peculiarities of the ,druzes and ,maronites4 ,new ,road4 ,crossing the ,mountains4 ,plain of the ,buk'a4 ,leontes4 ,a swollen ,river4 ,ancient ,cities4 ,imposing ,cavalcade4 ,wives of the ,pasha of ,damascus4 ,first ,view of ,damascus4 ,splendor and ,enjoyments of the ,interior of the ,city4 ,great ,plain of ,damascus4 ,abana and ,pharpar4 ,scene of ,st4 ,paul's ,conversion4 ,city without ,ruins4 ,antiquity and thrilling ,history of ,damascus4 ,house of ,judas4 ,home of ,ananias4 8,street called ,straight40 ,naaman's ,palace4 ,tombs of the ,great4 ,location of ,damascus4 ,walls and ,gates4 ,old ,castle4 ,great ,mosque4 ,gardens of ,damascus4 ,commerce of the ,city4 ,curiosities in the ,bazars4 ,population4 ,christian ,citizens4 ,origin of the ,massacre of #ahfj4 ,its ,progress4 ,terrible ,scenes4 ,american ,vice-,consul4 ,ruins4 ,sad ,results4 ,defense of the ,christians by ,abd-el-,kader4 ,visit to the ,chieftain of ,algiers4 ,our ,reception4 ,testimonials4 ,his ,appearance4 ,conclusion4 ,political ,history of ,palestine4 ,its ,condition under the ,turks4 ,it is now in a ,transition ,state4 ,possessions of ,european ,nations4 ,future of the ,holy ,land4 ,christian ,missions4 ,decline of ,mohammedanism4 ,religious ,liberty4 ,future ,glory4 ,,branches of the ancient ,taurus chain1 the parallel mountain ranges of ,lebanon and anti-,lebanon1 extend from north to south through the whole length of the ,land of ,promise4 ,geologically they consist of a hard1 calcareous1 whitish stone1 and are disposed in strata variously inclined4 ,varying in altitude from #cjjj to #ac1jjj feet above the sea1 and skirted with plains at different points1 they continually change their form and appearance with their levels and situation4 ,their three highest summits are ,hermon1 ,sunnn1 and ,mukhmel4 ,the first is #aj1jjj feet high1 the second #aa1jjj1 the third #ac1jjj4 ,their surface is generally smooth1 bare1 and rounded1 but in sections it is broken and rugged1 resembling huge piles of rocks1 not unlike1 in form1 the ruins of towns and castles4 ,they abound in springs1 which1 together with the melting snows covering their higher portions1 form torrents1 that descend to the plains on either side1 refreshing the parched fields1 and imparting an air of liveliness to the scene4 ,both their sides and summits are dotted with forests and groves of oak1 fir1 larch1 box1 laurel1 myrtle1 and cedar-trees2 and1 though the soil is scanty1 the industrious peasants have planted vineyards on artificial terraces which yield the most delicious wines4 ,in the region about the great ,valley of ,kadsha are vast mulberry groves1 the leaves of which serve as food for the silk-worm1 and the villagers in that section are chiefly employed in the production of silk in its raw state4 ,in crossing the ,lebanons the traveler meets with scenes in which ,nature displays beauty or grandeur1 sometimes romantic wildness1 but always variety4 ,the sublime elevation and steep ascent of this magnificent rampart1 which seems to inclose the country1 and the gigantic masses which shoot into the clouds1 inspire him with astonishment and reverence4 ,at times he seems to be traveling in the middle regions of the atmosphere2 above him the sky is clear and serene1 below him the thick clouds are dissolving into rain and watering the plains4 ,on gaining the loftier peaks1 he is filled with delight by the immensity of space which expands around him1 and which becomes a fresh subject of admiration4 ,on every side he beholds a horizon without bounds1 while in clear weather the sight is lost over the desert1 extending to the ,persian ,gulf1 and over the ,mediterranean1 the waters of which wash the shores of ,europe4 ,apparently his view commands the world2 and the wandering eye1 surveying the successive chains of mountains1 transports the mind in an instant from ,antioch to ,jerusalem4 ,approaching nearer objects1 he observes the white coast of the 8,great ,sea0 on the west1 with a boundless expanse of water beyond1 and examines with greater minuteness the rocks1 the woods1 the torrents1 the sloping sides of the hills1 the villages and towns around him1 and exults at the diminution of objects which formerly appeared so great4 ,he sees the valleys obscured by storm-clouds with fresh delight1 and smiles at hearing the thunder muttering beneath his feet4 ,the once threatening summits now appear like the furrows of a plowed field or the steps of an amphitheatre1 and he feels himself gratified by an elevation above so many lofty objects1 on which he now looks down with inward satisfaction4 ,on penetrating into the interior districts of these mountains1 the roughness of the roads1 the steep descents and precipices1 strike him at first with terror2 but the sagacity of the horse he rides1 which can traverse them with safety1 soon relieves him1 and he calmly surveys those picturesque scenes that entertain him in quick succession4 ,he travels whole days together to reach a place which was in sight at his departure2 he winds1 descends1 skirts hills1 and climbs their precipitous sides1 and in this perpetual change it seems as if ,nature herself varied for him at every step the decorations of the scenery4 ,sometimes he beholds villages clinging to the steep declivities on which they are built1 and so arranged that the terraces of one row of houses serve as streets to those above them4 ,sometimes he espies the habitation of a recluse standing on a solitary height1 or a gray convent1 whose bell awakens the echoes of the ,lebanons4 ,at times he sees a rock perforated by a torrent1 and which has become a natural arch1 and another worn perpendicular1 resembling a high wall4 ,on the hill-sides he passes beds of stones1 uncovered and detached by the waters1 rising up like artificial ruins2 and in many places1 where the waters meet with inclined beds1 the intermediate earth has been washed away1 leaving immense caverns1 or subterranean channels have been formed1 through which rivulets flow the year round4#ffh ,in traversing the ,lebanons1 the traveler is impressed with the accuracy of the allusions of the inspired writers to these wonderful mountains4 ,such was their fame in the days of ,moses that he earnestly prayed1 8,let me go over and see the good land that is beyond ,jordan1 that goodly mountain1 and ,lebanon40#ffi ,considered wild and dreary1 the seat of storm and tempest1 ,lebanon was the type of national desolation in the mind of the prophet2 and regarding its restoration to fertility as the symbol of returning national prosperity1 he asks the significant question1 8,is it not a very little while1 and ,lebanon shall be turned into a fruitful field1 and the fruitful field shall be esteemed as a forest80#fgj ,always regarded a strong barrier to the ,land of ,promise1 and opposing an almost insuperable obstacle to the movements of chariots of war1 it was the arrogant boast of ,sennacherib1 8,by the multitude of my chariots am ,i come up to the height of the mountains1 to the sides of ,lebanon2 and ,i will cut down the tall cedars thereof1 and the choice fir-trees thereof2 and ,i will enter into the height of his border1 and the forest of his ,carmel40#fga ,as of old1 so now1 the less inhabited portions of the range are the chosen haunts of beasts of prey1 to which the prophet thus alludes3 8,the violence of ,lebanon shall cover thee1 and the spoil of beasts1 which made them afraid1 because of men's blood1 and for the violence of the land1 of the city1 and of all that dwell therein20#fgb and to such ferocious animals that roam on its summits and lodge in its thickets1 and occasionally descend to the plain in quest of prey1 ,solomon refers1 in that animated invitation to his spouse1 8,come with me from ,lebanon1 my spouse1 with me from ,lebanon2 look from the top of ,amana1 from the top of ,shenir and ,hermon1 from the lions' dens1 from the mountains of the leopards40#fgc ,in allusion to the fragrant odors wafted from the aromatic plants growing upon its sides1 the poet apostrophizes the same imaginary being in these elegant words3 8,and the smell of thy garments is like the smell of ,lebanon40#fgd ,the large vineyards which adorn the terraced sides of the mountains produce wines of great richness and choice flavor2 they are of a beautiful color1 and so oily that they adhere to the glass4 ,it was to their reviving effect and odor that ,hosea refers3 8,they that dwell under his shadow shall return2 they shall revive as the corn1 and grow as the vine2 the scent thereof shall be as the wine of ,lebanon40#fge ,the rapid growth of the ,christian ,church1 her great extent1 and the countless number of her converts1 was announced in the no less sublime than truthful figure1 8,there shall be a handful of corn in the earth upon the tops of the mountains2 the fruit thereof shall shake like ,lebanon40#fgf ,the stupendous size1 the extensive range1 and great elevation of ,lebanon2 its towering summits capped with perpetual snow or crowned with fragrant cedars2 its olive plantations2 its vineyards1 producing the most delicious wines2 its clear fountains and cold-flowing brooks2 its fertile vales and odoriferous shrubberies1 combine to form1 in ,scripture language1 8the glory of ,lebanon40 ,in preintimating the conversion of the ,gentiles from their idolatry and corruption to the purity and blessings of ,christianity1 ,isaiah employs the majestic figure1 8,the wilderness and the solitary place shall be glad for them2 and the desert shall rejoice1 and blossom as the rose4 ,it shall blossom abundantly1 and rejoice1 even with joy and singing2 the glory of ,lebanon shall be given unto it1 the excellency of ,carmel and ,sharon1 they shall see the glory of the ,lord1 and the excellency of our ,god40#fgg ,in all ages the cedar of ,lebanon has been regarded as an object of unrivaled grandeur and beauty in the vegetable kingdom4 ,it is1 accordingly1 one of the natural images which occur in the poetical style of the ,hebrew prophets1 and is appropriated to denote kings1 princes1 and potentates of the highest rank4 ,in the days of ,solomon the cedar forests of ,lebanon were extensive1 but at present there is but one known group on all the range4 ,at the head of ,wady ,kadsha1 in a vast but secluded recess formed by the loftiest of the ,lebanon summits1 and encircled by a region of perpetual snow1 is the small remaining forest of #djj trees of all sizes and ages4 ,the axe of the builder and the ruthless hands of peasants have done much to reduce the once grand forests to this small clump of trees1 to preserve which the mountains seem to have gathered round1 covering them from the gaze of the destroyer4 ,their solitude strangely affected me2 they stand alone1 without another tree in sight or a patch of verdure on the surrounding acclivities4 ,they cover the sides and summits of a pretty knoll1 which is at the northeastern end of a recess eight miles in diameter1 in the central ridge of ,lebanon4 ,the encircling summits are the highest in ,syria1 and streaked with perpetual snow4 ,they are white and rounded1 and their sides descend in naked1 uniform slopes in the form of a semicircle4 ,some of the trees are in the vigor of their growth1 others are gnarled and venerable4 ,in form they are perfect images of grace and majesty4 ,they are tall and straight1 with fanlike branches1 contracting like a cone toward the top4 ,the shag-bark is coarse and heavy2 the leaves are small1 narrow1 rough1 exceedingly green1 of a sombre hue1 and arranged in tufts along the branches2 they shoot in spring1 and fall in early winter2 the cones resemble those of the pine4 ,from the full-grown trees a fluid trickles naturally and without incision2 it is clear1 transparent1 whitish1 and1 after a time1 dries and hardens4 ,in most cases the branches shoot out horizontally from the parent trunk1 forming beautiful pyramidal circles4 ,on the summit of the knoll are several aged trees #dj feet in girth1 and on the northern side is one the very image of strength and grandeur2 its branches are larger than the trunks of ordinary trees1 and its majestic limbs1 stretching out over a vast area1 afford a grateful shade4 ,in the centre of the group is the patriarch of the grove4 ,measuring #dh feet in circumference1 the trunk is gnarled1 the stronger branches have fallen off1 and its once majestic form bends toward the earth under the weight of many years4 ,standing beneath its patriarchal shade1 ,i could but ask1 8,how old art thou80 for it seemed to have come down from the days of the ancient seers4 ,illustration3 ,,cedars ,,of ,,lebanon4 ,pre-eminently the cedars are 8sacred0 trees4 ,the inspired narrator has linked them inseparably to many of the grandest events of ,bible history4 ,these are the 8trees of the ,lord10 the 8cedars of ,lebanon which he hath planted20#fgh here is the remnant of that forest from which the timber was taken for ,god's ,temple in ,jerusalem2#fgi these are the inspired similitudes of grandeur1 strength1 power1 and glory4 ,in denouncing the judgments of the ,lord upon the proud and arrogant1 the prophet declares3 8,for the day of the ,lord of hosts shall be upon every one that is proud and lofty1 and upon every one that is lifted up1 and he shall be brought low2 and upon all the cedars of ,lebanon that are high and lifted up1 and upon all the oaks of ,bashan40#fhj ,to awaken grateful emotions in the hearts of the degenerate ,jews1 ,amos reminds them1 8,yet destroyed ,i the ,amorite before them1 whose height was like the height of the cedars20#fha and1 as an illustration of ,jehovah's displeasure with royal pride1 ,ezekiel exclaims1 8,behold1 the ,assyrian was a cedar in ,lebanon with fair branches1 and with a shadowing shroud1 and of a high stature2 and his top was among the thick boughs40#fhb ,to break the cedars1 and shake the enormous mass on which they grow1 are figures selected by the ,psalmist to express the awful majesty and infinite power of ,god4 8,the voice of the ,lord is powerful2 the voice of the ,lord is full of majesty4 ,the voice of the ,lord breaketh the cedars2 yea1 the ,lord breaketh the cedars of ,lebanon40#fhc ,the forests of the ,east1 always near the point of ignition under the intense beams of a vertical sun1 are frequently set on fire by the carelessness of those who have taken shelter in their recesses1 and the devouring element continues its ravages till extensive plantations are consumed4 ,to such a conflagration the prophet compares the destructive operations of the ,roman armies under ,vespasian and ,titus against the ,jews1 when the nobles and rulers were slaughtered1 the city and temple reduced to ashes1 the people either put to the sword or sold into slavery1 and the whole country laid waste4 8,open thy doors1 ,o ,lebanon1 that the fire may devour thy cedars4 ,howl1 fir-tree1 for the cedar is fallen2 because the mighty are spoiled3 howl1 ,o ye oaks of ,bashan1 for the forest of the vintage is come down40#fhd ,and as the noblest of trees1 and the most perfect symbol of prosperity when in their prime1 they contain the significance of the precious promise1 8,the righteous shall flourish like the palm-tree2 he shall grow like a cedar in ,lebanon40#fhe ,the population of ,lebanon is generally estimated at #djj1jjj souls1 residing in more than #fjj towns1 villages1 and hamlets4 ,the inhabitants are designated according to their religious faith1 and are known as ,moslems1 ,jews1 ,greeks1 ,latins1 ,armenians1 ,maronites1 and ,druzes4 ,though the ,mohammedans are in power1 they are not the ruling class in these mountain regions4 ,the ,maronites and ,druzes form the chief part of the population1 and are the hereditary and inveterate foes of each other4 ,the former occupy chiefly ,lebanon1 and number about #bjj1jjj4 ,they derive their sectarian name from ,john ,maron1 a monk1 who was the great apostle of the ,monothelitic heresy in the seventh century1 and who died in #gja ,a4,d4 ,renouncing their ,monothelitism in #aahj1 they submitted to the ,pope1 and are now devoted to the ,see of ,rome4 ,though residing in villages from ,nazareth to ,aleppo1 their strong-hold is in the district of ,kesrawn2 and their patriarch1 who receives his robe of investiture from ,rome1 resides in the convent of ,kanobn1 in the romantic glen of ,kadsha1 near the cedars4 ,they have #hb convents1 in which are #bjjj monks and nuns1 who have a revenue of #cej1jjj per annum4 ,though brave1 independent1 and industrious1 the ,maronites are illiterate and superstitious1 and are subject to the dictation of their clergy in all matters of religion and politics4 ,the ,druzes occupy the southern half of ,lebanon1 extending over to ,mount ,hermon1 and out into the ,hauran4 ,they are the descendants of ,arabs who came from the eastern confines of ,syria about #ijj years ago1 and now number #ajj1jjj4 ,they believe in the unity of ,god2 the transmigration of souls2 in the ministry of ,hkim2 in the mutual obligation of veracity and protection2 and in the renunciation of all other religions1 and their separation from those in error4 ,their peculiar doctrines were first propagated in ,egypt by the notorious ,hkim1 third of the ,fatimite dynasty1 who asserted that the ,deity resided in ,aly4 ,in #ajag ,a4,d4 the error of the ,fatimite was embraced by a ,persian by the name of ,mohammed ,ben-,ismail ed-,derazy1 who settled in ,egypt1 but who1 having excited the displeasure of the ,egyptians by his fanaticism1 was compelled to fly to the base of ,mount ,hermon1 where he became the founder of the ,druzes4 ,at a later period1 ,hamza1 a ,persian1 asserted that ,hkim was the expected ,messiah1 who is to reign triumphant over all the earth4 ,secret and exclusive in their worship1 the sect is divided into two classes1 the 8initiated0 and the 8ignorant40 ,absolute privacy being their object1 their temples of devotion are in remote but conspicuous placesmost of them on the summits of hills4 ,professedly religious1 they are1 nevertheless1 a political body1 and aim at the conquest of ,syria4 ,they are thoroughly organized4 ,their whole country is divided into districts4 ,in each district a weekly council is held1 and1 by means of delegates1 constant communication is maintained between the different branches of their community4 ,in peace the ,druzes are industrious and hospitable2 in war1 daring and ferocious4 ,in their mountain homes they are readily distinguished from all other sects by their trim beards1 and their neatly-folded turbans of spotless white4#fhf ,thanks to the civilization of the ,west1 and especially to ,french enterprise1 a ,macadamized road has been constructed from ,beirt to ,damascus4 ,it is a noble highway1 #af feet wide1 with deep water-drains on each side1 and with drains1 bridges1 and buttresses of substantial mason-work4 ,regarding bad roads as barriers to the advance of an invading army1 but forgetting that such also impede the retreat of their own forces1 the ,turks are the enemies of good roads4 ,and although the antiquary1 with the ,turk1 may deprecate the destruction of the camel-route which had been the great highway from ,damascus to the sea since the days of ,abraham1 yet the interests of commerce and religion will be promoted by this new and grand turnpike4 ,following the ,mediterranean coast from ,sidon to ,beirt1 which is the commercial emporium of ,syria and ,palestine1 we passed through the busy streets of the latter town1 and1 leaving the pine forests and mulberry groves which environ the city to the west1 we began the ascent of ,lebanon4 ,riding rapidly over the newly-made road1 we soon mounted the western spurs of ,lebanon1 and at midday reached the summit4 ,the skies were lowery1 and a dense fog hung upon the mountains4 ,at times the fog was impenetrable1 and the muleteers were compelled to call to each other frequently1 and ring the warning bell of their approach4 ,turning to the southeast of ,wady ,hummna1 we began to descend amid wild and varied scenery4 ,the clouds now were lifted up2 the sun shone with unwonted splendor2 and at our feet lay the glorious ,plain of the ,buk'a4 ,the descent was along the southern side of this magnificent glen1 the upper part of which is nine miles across2 the bottom is dotted with villages1 and the rocky sides are sprinkled with pines4 ,the banks are shelving1 and the new road not having been completed to this point1 our horses cautiously picked their way among the rocks4 ,to the north of the ravine1 and on the summit of a lofty spur of the mountain1 stand the ruins of a ,druze castle1 and to the south of it are a few excavated tombs4 ,misdirected by a muleteer1 our dragoman attempted to cross the ,buk'a in a straight line1 avoiding a long sweep over the ordinary path2 but the recent rains had flooded the plains to the depth of three feet1 and the ,leontes swept by with increased velocity4 ,fording one branch of the river in safety1 we were compelled to ride for several miles in water up to our horses' haunches1 and1 on reaching the main channel of the ,leontes1 we found the banks too steep and the stream too deep and rapid to ford4 ,night was upon us1 and1 as our only alternative1 we rode northward eight miles1 and1 after crossing four or five bridges1 pursued our journey in the darkness of the hour to the small village of ,mejdel1 where1 after having been in the saddle fourteen consecutive hours1 we obtained lodgings in the humble cottage of a ,maronite ,christian4 ,not far from the town is a hill crowned with the ruins of some extraordinary but unknown temple1 and from its broken walls we obtained a view of the great ,plain of ,buk'a4 ,the eye followed the mountains on each side to the northward till lost to view1 and southward to where the chains converge and form the gorge of the ,leontes4 8,the plain is smooth as a lake1 and the artificial mounds which here and there dot its surface might well pass for islands40 ,three miles to the northeast are the remains of the ancient city of ,chalcis1 and #be miles beyond are the stupendous and splendid ruins of ,ba'albek1 the ,heliopolis of ,antoninus ,pius1 and the rival of ,athens in the grandeur and proportions of its temples and palaces4 ,mounting our horses1 in half an hour we entered the defiles of anti-,lebanon4 ,ascending the long but picturesque glen of ,wady ,harr1 we met a pompous cavalcade1 escorting the wives and female slaves of the ,pasha of ,damascus to ,beirt4 ,the ladies rode in sedans1 the sides of which were of glass1 and which were borne on poles by two mules1 one in front and the other behind4 ,the chief ladies were in the maturity of womanhood1 and their countenances were exceedingly fair4 ,they were attired in the most costly manner1 and over their faces were drawn thin white veils4 ,in the sedans which followed were beautiful ,circassian girls1 and behind them came ,nubian girls1 remarkable only for their blackness4 ,all seemed happy1 and each returned our salutation with exquisite grace4 ,the eunuchs were mounted on magnificent ,arabian horses1 elegantly caparisoned1 and the ,turkish cavalry1 well mounted1 and each bearing a long lance1 appeared proud and vigilant4 ,on leaving ,wady ,harr we ascended a ridge of gray hills1 and were soon on the desert plateau of ,sahl ,judeideh4 ,in all my wanderings in ,arabia and ,palestine1 ,i had seen nothing to exceed the sterility and forbidding aspect of this upland plain4 ,but1 as ,nature loves contrasts1 the bleak hills and plains of ,judeideh only enhance1 by way of contrast1 the glorious ,plain of ,el-,merj1 on which ,damascus stands4 ,reaching the summit of the ridge1 the city of ,eliezer and ,naaman lay before me1 embowered in gardens of vast extent and of the most enchanting beauty4 ,beholding it for myself1 ,i could no longer wonder at the sublime encomiums which ,arabian writers and modern travelers have pronounced upon this entrancing prospect4 ,on a magnificent plain1 bounded by lofty mountains1 are gardens of olive1 apricot1 pomegranate1 cypress1 poplar1 willow1 walnut1 lemon1 and orange trees1 covering an area of #cj miles in circuit1 from the midst of which rise tapering minarets1 swelling domes1 castellated towers1 and white-roofed palaces1 the abodes of merchant princes4 ,it is this half-opened and half-secluded view of the city that gives power and charm to the vision4 ,now you see a golden crescent peering above the bright green foliage1 sparkling in the sunlight like a diamond in a circlet of emeralds2 now appears a half-ruined castle through an opening glade of cypresses and walnuts2 and again is seen the white dome of an ancient mosque1 embowered with stately palms and gracefully drooping willows4 ,unlike other ,oriental cities1 ,damascus retains the charm of her beauty even when seen from within4 ,there is a fascination in her sparkling fountains and golden-flowing ,abana1 meandering amid bright oleanders and tall poplars1 and breaking ever and anon into dashing cascades2 in her marble palaces1 with mosaic walls and arabesque ceilings1 and splendid mosques1 where the khalifs of a thousand years have worshiped2 and in her long1 rich bazars1 where are seen the shawls of ,cashmere1 the carpets of ,persia1 the silks of the ,east1 and her own ,damascus blades1 jeweled daggers1 and gold-embroidered robes4 ,the great plain on which ,damascus stands is #ba miles wide1 and has an elevation of #bbjj feet above the sea4 ,triangular in shape1 it is bounded on the northwest by the anti-,lebanon range1 which varies in height from #ejj to #aejj feet2 along its southwestern border flows the ,river ,pharpar1 beyond which are the ,mountains of ,haurn1 which are dimly seen upon the horizon2 on the east are three lakes1 surrounded by a dense thicket1 and bounding the horizon beyond is a range of conical hills4 ,on this rich plain1 covered with vegetation1 are over #ajj villages1 containing a population of #dj1jjj souls4 ,the eastern portion is called ,el-,merj1 while that lying around the city bears the name of ,ghtah4 ,its perennial fertility is due to the ,abana and ,pharpar1 8rivers of ,damascus40 ,the highest sources of the latter are near the village ',arny1 in a large basin-like glen in ,mount ,hermon4 ,enlarged by several smaller streams near ,sa'sa'1 its clear waters sweep along in a deep1 narrow bed1 confined on one side by a rugged wall of volcanic rock1 and on the other by cliffs of limestone4 ,at first a small1 lively stream1 it increases in volume as it flows eastward1 and1 after meandering through rich meadows1 it enters the southern of the three lakes1 not far from the town of ,heijny4 ,the ,abana rises in a high plain south of ,zebedny1 on anti-,lebanon4 ,the head of the stream is called ,fijeh1 and is one of the largest and most beautiful fountains in ,syria4 ,bursting forth from a narrow cave1 it leaps1 foams1 and roars as it descends to a confluence with other streams1 when at once it becomes a rapid torrent #cj feet wide and four deep4 ,cutting its way through the mountain1 its channel widens and deepens1 and from its bed rise cliffs #ajjj feet high1 and white almost as the snow of ,hermon4 ,rushing in a southeasterly direction down the mountain1 and issuing upon the plain through a wild chasm1 it turns eastward1 and1 flowing along the north wall of ,damascus1 takes its way across the plain to the two northern lakes4 ,whether we consider the beautiful blue tinge of its waters1 or their deliciousness1 or their fertilizing power1 or the sylvan lakes and pretty cascades they form1 the ,abana is deservedly the most celebrated of ,syrian rivers4 ,to secure the advantages to be derived from such a deep1 broad stream1 its waters are diverted from its channel through not less than nine canals for the supply of the city and the irrigation of the plain4 ,somewhere on this plain1 to the southeast of the city1 occurred two great eventsthe meeting of ,hazael and the ,prophet ,elisha1#fhg and the conversion of ,st4 ,paul4#fhh ,elisha came from ,palestine1 and1 when near ,damascus1 ,hazael met him with a present from ,benhadad1 the then reigning king1 who was lying dangerously ill4 ,ambitious and unscrupulous1 ,hazael returned to his royal master with the prophetic promise of recovery2 but1 taking advantage of the king's debility1 ,hazael murdered ,benhadad and mounted the throne of ,syria4 ,nearly a thousand years later1 and perhaps upon the same spot1 occurred the other and grander event4 ,on leaving ,jerusalem1 ,saul of ,tarsus pursued the ancient caravan track to the capital of ,syria4 ,having passed in his journey the most renowned cities in ,palestine1 and the scenes of the most important events in the history of ,christ1 he at length drew near to ,damascus4 ,it was while his heart swelled with pride and hope at the prospect of the speedy consummation of his terrible mission that 8suddenly there shined round about him a light from heaven1 above the brightness of the sun10 and he 8heard a voice saying unto him1 ,saul1 ,saul1 why persecutest thou me80 ,though it is not possible to identify the exact spot where he fell to the ground1 the features of the landscape remain unchanged4 ,there now1 as then1 the white dome of ,hermon is on the south2 the bare ridge of anti-,lebanon is on the north2 while to the east are the gardens1 the domes1 and towers of ,damascus4 ,now1 as then1 the sky is cloudless1 and a ,syrian sun shines in his strength2 and now1 as then1 the peasant in the same field drives his oxen with sharp goads1 which illustrate1 if they did not suggest1 the words of ,jesus1 8,it is hard for thee to kick against the pricks40 ,damascus is too old to have ruins4 ,she has outlived ,nineveh1 and ,babylon1 and ,thebes1 and ,palmyra1 and ,ba'albek1 and ,greece1 and ,rome1 and1 retaining the freshness of her youth1 seems destined to live throughout all time4 ,though successively the prize of the ,persian1 the ,greek1 the ,roman1 the ,saracen1 the ,christian1 and now of the ,turk1 yet by some mysterious law she has resisted the changes of fortune incident to the change of rulers1 and1 prospering under each dynasty1 she is still the greatest commercial city of ,asiatic ,turkey1 carrying on1 as in olden times1 an extensive trade with ,egypt1 ,persia1 ,bagdad1 and the ,bedouins of the ,eastern desert4 ,but her high antiquity and thrilling religious history possess a peculiar interest4 ,coming from ,southern ,mesopotamia1 the cradle of our race1 across the ,syrian desert1 the great grandchildren of ,noah settled on the banks of the ,abana4 ,here1 in after years1 ,abraham found ,eliezer1 the faithful steward of his household2#fhi and in the little town of ,burzeh1 near by1 the patriarch lived4 ,here flow the ,abana and ,pharpar1 which ,naaman thought 8better than all the waters of ,israel20 and here was the captive home of the little maid1 whose simple story about the ,lord's prophet of ,samaria induced the proud ,syrian to visit ,gilgal to be 8recovered of his leprosy40#fij ,hither came ,elijah and ,elisha to reprove kings and anoint their successors2#fia and hither1 but paramount in the grandeur of its results to all other events1 came ,st4 ,paul1 to receive his sight and obtain the peace of heaven4#fib ,christian affection has preserved the memory of the sites of many of these events4 ,the house of ,judas1 where ,paul lodged1 and the home of ,ananias1 who baptized the great apostle of the ,gentiles1 are still pointed out with affectionate remembrance4 ,the 8street which is called ,straight10 into which the repentant persecutor was led1 is correctly named1 being a mile long1 and running east and west through the centre of the town4 ,in the ,roman age it was #ajj feet wide1 and divided into three avenues by rows of ,corinthian columns1 with corresponding portals2 but at present neither the gates nor the colonnades remain4 ,to the south of the city is the gate ,kisn1 which has been closed for #gjj years4 ,near this portal is located the scene of ,st4 ,paul's escape1 where1 in his own words1 8,through a window in a basket was ,i let down by the wall and escaped40#fic ,in the lapse of time and through the devastations of war the window is gone1 but on the east wall of the city are several buildings1 with projecting windows1 from which many persons were let down during the recent massacre2 and to the east of the wall is the traditional site of ,naaman's palace1 on which has been erected a leper's hospital1 probably for his descendants4 ,though ,damascus has survived the mightiest cities of the past1 the vast cemeteries in the environs of the town1 crowded with the dead1 are a mournful proof that the countless generations1 which from the most remote ages have dwelt within her gates and reclined in her fragrant gardens1 have gone down to their graves4 ,wandering among the monuments of those venerable grave-yards1 ,i saw the tombs of three of ,mohammed's wives2 of ,fatima1 his granddaughter1 the unfortunate child of ,aly2 of ,moawyeh1 the founder of the dynasty of the ,ommiades2 and of ,saladn1 the victor of ,hattn4 ,damascus is built on both banks of the ,abana1 a mile and a half from the base of the lowest ridge of anti-,lebanon4 ,it is encompassed with a wall1 exhibiting specimens of the masonry of every age from the ,roman to the present time1 and which is penetrated by seven gates occupying their ancient sites4 ,of an irregular oval shape1 the old city1 the nucleus of the present town1 is on the south bank of the river4 ,here stands the massive castle1 a large quadrangular building #hdj feet long by #fjj broad1 the foundations of which were laid by the ,romans and the superstructure reared by the ,saracens4 ,through this portion of the city runs the 8street called ,straight10 and on its northern side are the principal buildingsthe churches of the ,christians1 the ,khan ,as'ad ,pasha1 and the ,great ,mosque4 ,the latter structure is the most imposing and magnificent edifice in ,damascus4 ,built in the form of a quadrangle1 it is #dhi feet long by #cbd wide4 ,on its northern side is a spacious court #dca feet long and #abe broad1 surrounded by cloisters1 with arches springing from granite and marble columns4 ,the interior is divided into a nave and aisles1 formed by two rows of ,corinthian columns4 ,the floor is of tesselated marble1 covered with ,persian carpets1 and the walls are incased with mosaics and various colored marbles4 ,beneath the transept is a cave1 said to contain1 in a gold casket1 the head of ,john the ,baptist4 ,from the centre of the transept rises a noble dome1 #ej feet in diameter and #abj high1 resting on four massive piers4 ,the exterior is adorned with three minarets1 the loftiest of which is #bej feet high4 ,it is generally supposed that this grand mosque stands on the site of the temple of the god ,rimmon1 and that here ,naaman deposited the 8two mules' burden of earth0 which he had brought from the ,plains of ,jericho2#fid and here probably stood that beautiful altar which excited the admiration of ,king ,ahaz1 and which served as the model for the altar he caused to be constructed in ,jerusalem4#fie ,on the opposite bank of the river is a large suburb1 the ,turkish quarter of the city1 containing the residences of the chief officers of the government and of the army4 ,to the west are the barracks1 and to the southward is the ,meidn1 through which runs a broad avenue1 the ordinary route taken by the pilgrim caravan on its way to ,mecca4 ,the chief resorts of the ,damascenes for pleasure are the numerous and elegant cafs1 several of which are on the banks of the ,abana4 ,here platforms are erected over the foaming waters1 shaded by willows1 poplars1 palms1 and cypresses4 ,at night a thousand miniature lamps of varied forms and colors glimmer among the branches of the trees and are reflected in the river below1 while turbaned ,turks while away the hours sipping delicious ,mocha coffee from thimble-sized cups1 whiffing the best ,stamboul tobacco-smoke through ornamented chibouks1 humming some monotone chant1 or listening to the recital of some ,oriental tale of love1 prodigality1 or war4 ,damascus is at once a commercial and manufacturing city4 ,the principal articles manufactured are silks1 woolen and cotton cloths1 gold and silver ornaments1 confections1 nargilies1 boots1 shoes1 slippers1 and pattens worn by the belles of the town4 ,the bazars are usually filled with articles of home manufacture1 and those imported from ,manchester1 ,birmingham1 ,lyons1 ,paris1 ,constantinople1 ,cashmere1 and ,bagdad4 ,arranged in open stalls1 the bazars are among the most interesting objects to be seen by the ,occidental4 ,here he witnesses the activity and trade of the city1 and beholds scenes unlike any thing of the kind to be seen in the ,west4 ,he is soothed by the odor of perfumes and spices2 his appetite is tempted by preserved fruits and confectioneries2 he is delighted or offended by the scent of various kinds of tobacco2 he is bewildered by the sound of the hammers of the silversmiths2 his curiosity is awakened by the odd-shaped boots and slippers2 and his admiration is excited by costly diamonds1 emeralds1 rubies1 robes1 antique armors1 ,damascus blades1 and jeweled daggers4 ,previous to the fearful massacre of #ahfj the population of ,damascus numbered #aej1jjj souls4 ,of these1 #abi1jjj were ,moslems1 #fjjj ,jews1 and #ae1jjj ,christians2 but the murders1 captivities1 and dispersions incident to that dreadful tragedy have reduced the ,christian population to less than two thirds its original number4 ,the ,christians were among the most wealthy and intelligent citizens2 their dwellings and churches were of the most splendid order1 and by their thrift and industry they had added largely to the revenues of the city4 ,but the fanaticism of the ,moslems culminated in a murderous assault1 the results of which are too well known to the world4 ,the cause was deep-seated and inveterate1 the occasion puerile and trifling4 ,several ,mohammedan and ,christian boys were at play in one of the streets1 and the former1 evincing the spirit of persecution1 drew the figure of a cross upon the sand1 and then attempted to compel the latter to trample upon it2 but1 equally and strongly attached to the religion of their fathers1 they resisted1 and a scuffle followed4 ,learning the cause of the trouble1 the parents of the ,christian boys caused the ,mohammedan lads to be arrested and brought before the city judge4 ,it was the torch applied to the magazine4 ,indignant and infuriated1 the ,moslem parents collected their friends1 who proceeded to the ,christian ,quarter and commenced the terrible assault4 ,the fathers1 sons1 and husbands of the ,christian families were absent from their residences1 absorbed in the business of their several callings4 ,the attack was made in mid-afternoon1 and in an hour the whole ,moslem population was engaged in the work of death and destruction4 ,their religious hatred had been long suppressed1 but their pent-up fury now burst forth like the sudden and violent irruption of a volcano4 ,the tocsin was sounded1 and the followers of the ,crescent hastened to exterminate the adherents of the ,cross4 ,entering their dwellings1 ,christian mothers1 wives1 and daughters were surprised by their ravishers and murderers1 while their husbands1 fathers1 and sons were slain in the streets by hundreds while hastening to rescue their beloved ones4 ,escaping through windows1 and leaping from the roofs of their dwellings1 the ,christian women sought refuge in their churches and monasteries2 but1 forgetful of the reverence due the sacred sanctuaries1 the ,moslems applied the torch1 consuming the edifices and the helpless refugees within them4 ,the flames continued to spread till a third of the city1 and by far the most elegant portion1 had been reduced to ashes4 ,where the house of a ,christian adjoined that of a ,mohammedan1 it was torn down rather than fired1 lest the ungovernable flames might consume what had not been doomed to destruction4 ,in a covered alley not far from 8,straight0 street1 #cjj women1 the accomplished wives and daughters of merchant princes1 took refuge2 but their merciless persecutors added death to insult1 and sabred them on the spot4 ,the wild ,bedouins who chanced to be in the city dispatched couriers to their companions1 who1 mounted on their fleet horses1 came as on the wings of the wind to abuse and murder the helpless4 ,the third point of attack on that memorably sad day was the residence of the ,american ,vice-,consul1 ,dr4 ,mashaka1 one of the most eminent of ,arabic scholars4 ,his ample fortune allowed him to live in princely style1 and his family is the most accomplished ,i saw in the ,east4 ,his daughter was wounded1 his son was missing for three days1 and the person of his beautiful and excellent wife was barely rescued from the licentious and murderous ,moslems by the timely interposition of a female friend4 ,he himself was wounded1 and only escaped death by the heroic behavior of his ,mohammedan cawass1 and by flight to the residence of ,abd-el-,kader4 ,day after day the work of death and conflagration went on4 ,magnificent cathedrals1 stately monasteries1 and splendid private residences were reduced to heaps of shapeless ruins4 ,every where were to be seen broken fountains1 shattered vases1 fragments of mosaic pavements1 tesselated marble walls1 and arabesque ceilings1 with costly furniture strewn about in utter confusion4 ,even the small stone house which tradition had consecrated as the home of the good ,ananias suffered from the torch of persecution4 ,the fine residences of the ,american missionaries were consumed1 and their large and valuable libraries scattered among the dbris of their homes4 ,in addition to the slain1 #ejj of the fair sisters and daughters of those who survived the massacre were carried to the mountains by the wild ,bedouins of the ,hauran4 ,thousands of ,christian families became fugitives1 their homes1 fortunes1 and hopes forever ruined4 ,the ,christian ,mission was broken up1 and their church1 in which #djj worshipers assembled on the ,sabbath in the enjoyment of a pure faith1 was consumed4 ,bishops1 priests1 and monks fled1 and ,damascus was given over to ,mohammed and the ,devil4 ,the authorities of the city connived with the mob1 and the government troops joined in the acts of violence4 ,but there was one humane ,mohammedan who attempted to stay the massacre1 and whose home afforded shelter to the defenseless4 ,abd-el-,kader1 with #cjj ,algerian soldiers1 who had followed their celebrated chief into exile1 stood as a wall of brass against the fanaticism and fury of the murderers4 ,at the head of his little band1 he drove the mob from places which they had attacked1 he pursued those who were bearing off helpless women1 and swore the death of any who should invade his home to dispatch those who had taken refuge beneath his roof4 ,inflexible in purpose as he was invincible in courage1 he himself became the object of their revenge4 ,undaunted by their threats and repelling their attacks1 he became the enemy of the ,moslem1 but the friend and benefactor of the ,christian4 ,great as he is humane1 he will long be remembered with delight by the civilized world4 ,it was in the afternoon of the last day ,i spent in ,damascus that ,i enjoyed an interview with this distinguished man4 ,after waiting in the reception-room1 which was plainly furnished1 while the servant announced our names1 the ,emir appeared at the fountain in a spacious court-yard1 and invited us to seats in an elegant apartment1 on divans of embroidered satin4 ,small cups of ,mocha coffee were passed1 according to the invariable etiquette of a ,mohammedan house4 ,the conversation1 which had been general1 now turned upon the recent massacre1 and the noble part he had acted in the sad drama4 ,his modesty1 however1 allowed him to say but little1 but he kindly showed us the several national presents he had received as testimonials of his generous deeds4 ,greece had sent him two gold stars1 on one of which was a medallion likeness of ,king ,otho1 and on the other were the words1 8,thy right hand1 ,o ,lord1 is glorified20 ,turkey had presented him with two massive silver stars1 bearing the appropriate inscription1 8,protection1 ,zeal1 and ,fidelity20 ,france had conferred on him the 8,cross of the ,legion of ,honor10 encircled with emeralds and diamonds1 and surmounted with a gold crown2 the 8,free and ,accepted ,masons0 had bestowed upon him the symbols of their ,order2 ,sardinia1 and ,russia1 and ,austria1 and ,prussia had honored him with gold stars set with jewels2 and from the ,united ,states he had received a magnificent brace of revolvers1 of which he seemed justly proud4 ,though thus honored by all these great powers1 he had received no gift of remembrance from ,england2 and when assured by an ,english gentleman present that much had been said in his country about a gift1 the ,emir quietly replied1 8,i prefer works to words40 ,this failure on the part of ,england to recognize the magnanimity of this extraordinary man is inexplicable4 ,by the ,turks it is regarded as an acquiescence in the fearful slaughter4 ,this is unjust2 the cause1 however1 is to be found in her truckling policy toward the ,turkish empire1 and in her unwillingness to offend the religious sensibilities of the inhuman ,moslem4 ,abd-el-,kader is now in the prime of life1 of full habit1 above the medium height1 with a full face1 large head1 high1 rounded brow1 eyes large1 black1 and lustrous1 beard slight and dark1 and the expression of his countenance1 when in repose1 is that of benevolence and kindliness2 but the peculiar shape of his mouth1 together with his general air1 indicate decision1 courage1 and the capacity of being1 when circumstances demand1 impetuous and even desperate4 ,he is celebrated for the terrible battles he fought with the ,french in ,algiers1 and at present is confined within the limits of ,damascus as their prisoner of war4 ,the protection he extended to the ,christians has rendered him unpopular with the ,moslems of the city of his exile1 and he desires another more congenial with his tastes and sentiments4 ,he is a devout ,mohammedan1 but1 were he a ,christian1 what a splendid leader he would make to unite and lead the ,syrian ,christians to victory6 ,,conclusion4 ,some master-mind is yet to write the political history of the ,holy ,land from the conquest of ,titus to the death of the late ,sultan ,abd-ul-,medjid4 ,such a history would bring to light crusades the most chivalrous and ruinous1 political schemes the most ambitious and degrading1 and religious systems the most fanatical and corrupting the world has ever known4 ,such a work would advance the science of government and the higher purposes of ,christianity2 it would be the echo of the prophetic voice uttered centuries ago1 and furnish an unanswerable argument that the present physical and moral condition of the ,land of ,promise is the result of misrule1 and of a stupendous system of oppression1 extortion1 and fanaticism4 ,it would especially prove the undeniable fact that the ,turk is the enemy of good government1 of national greatness1 of social and intellectual refinement1 of domestic and individual purity1 and demonstrate beyond dispute that the reign of the ,turk is the reign of ruin4 ,suited best to the excitement of battle1 and to the plunder and murder of the vanquished1 in times of peace the unrestrained passions of the ,turk drive him to vices no less destructive of himself than they are blighting to civilized society4 ,in the camp and on the field he has always prospered2 but when unimpelled by the excitement of war1 his vigor has disappeared1 and he has been a leech on the body politic1 and a drone in community4 ,whether in ,europe1 ,asia1 or ,africa1 he has run a regular course of rapid attainment of power by bloody and devastating wars1 and then as regularly declined from the moment when1 as conqueror1 he sat down to reap the fruits of victory4 ,the ,turk and ,islam are identical2 the former is the embodiment of the latter1 and the latter is exterminating to all who refuse submission to the sway of the ,false ,prophet1 and annihilating to every thing which does not subserve the ends of his religion4 ,no country has risen to greatness under his power2 and those which were great in national resources1 in splendor of architecture1 in the wealth of agriculture1 and in the superiority of art and science1 have dwindled into insignificance1 or utterly perished under his deteriorating influence4 ,palestine is a deplorable instance of national wretchedness1 to which one of the fairest lands upon the face of the globe has been reduced since the reign of the ,islamitic ,turk4 ,from the ,arab invasion in #fcc ,a4,d41 headed by the famous generals ,khled and ,abu ,obeidah1 to the present time1 the cultivation of the soil has been neglected1 commerce diminishing1 and government perverted to the worst of purposes4 ,sixteen years subsequent to that invasion the ,crescent was the ensign of dominion from the shores of the ,atlantic to the confines of ,india4 ,of the then nine flourishing cities in ,syria1 ,damascus alone retains its earlier grandeur1 and this only in part1 as in the conflagration and massacre of #ahfj a third of its most magnificent edifices were destroyed1 and #ae1jjj of its noblest citizens slain1 captured1 or dispersed4 ,led by the heroic ,godfrey1 the ,crusaders in #ajii ,a4,d4 recovered the much-abused land from the neglect and cruelty of the ,turk1 and for three quarters of a century the ,land of ,promise was restored to comparative prosperity4 ,under those ,christian rulers the resources of the country were developed to an astonishing degree2 the fleets of ,pisa1 ,genoa1 and ,venice traded along its shores1 and populous cities sprung up as if by magic4 ,but in #aahg the battle of ,kurm ,hattn decided the fate of the ,crusaders4 ,jerusalem was retaken by ,saladn2 the ,franks were expelled from ,palestine2 and four years thereafter the celebrated ,melek-ed-,dhher replaced all ,syria under the domination of the ,turks1 and thenceforward to the present time the ,holy ,land has been the prey of ,mohammedan adventurers1 and is now a dependency to the ,porte1 divided into three pashalics4 ,six centuries prove that the ,moslem is neither the fosterer of the fine arts nor the promoter of agriculture1 commerce1 manufactures1 or public works of any kind4 ,when1 in the #abth century1 the ,christians were expelled1 the large and fertile plains of ,sharon1 ,phnicia1 ,esdraelon1 and ,mukhnah were fruitful fields yielding golden harvests1 the reward of honest husbandry2 but now those plains are the camping-grounds of the wandering ,arab1 where he feeds his flocks ad libitum1 and then1 mounting his fleet horse1 scours the adjoining country in search of plunder4 ,the ,crusaders left to their conquerors large and flourishing maritime cities1 with a lucrative commerce with ,europe and the ,levant2 but1 under the dominion of the ,turks1 those commercial towns are poor and filthy1 without harbors1 without vessels1 without mariners1 without trade4 ,the ,koran1 forbidding the 8making of any thing like unto that which is in heaven above or in the earth beneath10 has not only left ,syria without a picture and without a statue1 but has also led to the wanton destruction of the splendid edifices of medival times4 ,the knights of that period rivaled the ,romans1 and even ,herod the ,great1 in the erection of costly temples1 palaces1 and churches4 ,in ,jerusalem1 ,ramleh1 ,ludd1 ,beeroth1 ,bethel1 ,samaria1 ',akka1 ,tyre1 ,sidon1 and especially in ,athltthe ,castellum ,peregrinorum of the defenders of the ,cross1 were structures worthy to adorn any age2 but1 content with a shade-tree under which to whiff his nargily1 and an ill-formed hovel for the accommodation of his many wives1 the ,moslem has allowed those magnificent buildings to crumble to ruins1 or has ruthlessly destroyed them4 ,with one or two exceptions1 the celebrated edifices which remain are the work of other hands4 ,the great mosque in ,damascus was originally a ,christian church1 erected by ,arcadius1 the son of ,theodosius1 and dedicated to ,john the ,baptist2 the ,mosque of ,el-,aksa1 in ,jerusalem1 was once a church1 built by order of the ,emperor ,justinian1 and dedicated to 8,my ,lady10 the ,virgin ,mary2 and the mosque covering the cave of ,machpelah was also a ,christian temple4 ,excepting the ,mosque of ,omar1 the ,mohammedans have scarcely a structure of any importance of their own erection in the ,holy ,land1 and1 unlike the descendants of the ,greeks and ,romans1 the posterity of the ,turks will never sit amid the splendid ruins of ancestral greatness4 ,palestine is now in a transition state1 and there are indications that great political and moral changes are at hand4 ,numbering in all more than a million and a half1 the present inhabitants are a mixed race1 the several portions of which are designated by their religion rather than by their nationality4 ,their religious appellations are party names1 and are the symbols of power1 fear1 or reproach1 according to the comparative strength of the different parties4 ,three of the most numerous of the sects represent three great powers,france1 ,russia1 and ,turkey1 and by intrigue1 bribery1 and fanaticism1 will inevitably involve those mighty nations in a bloody strife for the possession of the ,holy ,land4 ,palestine seems destined to be again contended for by the nations of ,western ,europe1 and the ,plain of ,esdraelon may once more become the battle-field of nations4 ,at present most of these powers have landed possessions there1 and are annually making new purchases4 ,on ,mount ,akra1 to the southwest of the ,holy ,city1 the ,russians have inclosed a large area with high1 strong walls2 within is a monastery1 which in time of war will serve all the purposes of a fortress1 and to the inclosure they have given the name of 8,new ,jerusalem40 ,prussia has a large hospice within the city1 and also several flourishing religious and literary institutions4 ,the ,french hold possession of the ancient ,church of ,st4 ,anne1 and have recently purchased the land adjoining it2 they own the large green plat of ground opposite the ,church of the ,holy ,sepulchre1 which was once occupied by the ,knights of ,st4 ,john2 they have bought the old castle in ,beirt1 and have constructed a noble ,macadamized road from that city to ,damascus1 and have the right of way for #di years4 ,and on ,mount ,zion ,england has a consular building1 and a church of which any nation might be justly proud1 and by her diplomacy controls the policy of the ,sublime ,porte more than any other ,european power4 ,but1 whatever may be the political relations of ,palestine in the future1 the great and only hope of her regeneration and elevation is to be found in her ,christian missions4 ,these are established in ,jerusalem1 ,bethlehem1 ,joppa1 ,nablous1 ,nazareth1 ,sidon1 ,beirt1 ,damascus1 and in several of the larger towns in the ,lebanon ,mountains4 ,in ,jerusalem the mission is well and thoroughly organized1 and is attended by the happiest results2 the numerous schools are in a prosperous condition1 and the places of worship filled with sincere and attentive listeners4 ,but the ,beirt ,mission is really doing the greatest work in evangelizing the land4 ,the ,bible has been translated into ,arabic1 and is now given to the millions who speak that language4 ,at ,abuh1 in the mountains1 there is a seminary for the training of native missionaries1 and a college of a high order will soon be opened in ,beirt1 liberally endowed by ,american citizens4 ,smitten with decay1 and retiring before the advance of ,western civilization1 ,mohammedanism is yielding to the superior power of ,christianity4 ,the ,crescent1 which for so many centuries was the ensign of the conquering ,turk1 no longer excites alarm4 ,it was once the ,crescent of the new moon1 expanding and brightening till it shone resplendent on the plains of ,asia1 the shores of ,africa1 and the hills of ,europe2 but it is now the ,crescent of the old moon1 contracting and dim1 from the horns of which are slipping the conquering sword of the ,prophet and the diadem of ,othman4 ,demanded by the ,christian powers of the earth1 and protected by their armies and navies1 religious liberty in ,palestine is offered to the ,christian and the ,jew4 ,the ,land of ,promise has a glorious past1 and an equally glorious future awaits to dawn upon it4 ,prophecy is big with an exalted destiny1 the unfoldings of which will turn all eyes to the land of sacred song1 the cradle of our religion1 and the scene of our ,lord's incarnation4 ,thrice happy will be that day when ,jerusalem shall be rebuilt and made holy2 when the scattered tribes shall be recalled1 and go up to worship in a temple more magnificent than that of ,solomon2 and when1 from the ,plains of ,bethlehem to the snow-capped summits of ,mount ,hermon1 and from the coasts of ,tyre and ,sidon to the ,mountains of ,gilead1 light shall arise out of darkness1 and the voice of ,christian praise1 mingling with the song of angels1 shall be as sincere as it shall be universal4 ,,the ,,end4 ,,footnotes4 #a - ,num41 xxxiv41 #bab2 ,ezek41 xlvii41 #aebj4 #b - ,num41 xxxiv4 #c - #b ,sam41 iii41 #aj4 #d - ,gen41 xv41 #ah2 #b ,sam41 viii41 #c2 #a ,kings1 iv41 #babe4 #e - ,volney's ,travels4 #f - ,ex41 iii41 #ag4 #g - ,ib4 #h - ,levit41 xxvi41 #e4 #i - ,deut41 viii41 #i4 #aj - ,ib41 xi41 #ajab4 #aa - ,ps4 lxv41 #ac2 civ41 #ad1 #ae4 #ab - ,gibbon's ,rome1 vol4 i41 p4 #bg4 #ac - ,stanley's ,palestine1 p4 #aba4 #ad - ,olin's ,travels1 ii41 p4 #dbi4 #ae - ,barclay's ,c4 ,g4 ,k41 p4 #daf4 #af - ,jer41 iii41 #c1 #d4 #ag - ,amos1 iv41 #g4 #ah - ,barclay1 p4 #ec4 #ai - ,see ,milman's note in ,gibbon's ,rome1 i41 p4 #bg1 #bh4 #bj - ,josephus1 ,anti ,b41 b4 xv41 c4 iv4 #ba - ,milman's note on ,gibbon1 i41 p4 #bg1 #bh4 #bb - ,olin's ,travels4 #bc - ,volney's ,travels4 #bd - ,ps4 civ41 #bd1 #be4 #be - ,ps4 cvii41 #bcbf4 #bf - ,ib41 civ41 #ah4 #bg - ,ib41 cxlvii41 #af1 #ag4 #bh - ,ib41 lxiii41 #a4 #bi - ,isa41 xxxii41 #b4 #cj - ,gen41 xx41 #a4 #ca - ,ps4 civ41 #cb4 #cb - #a ,chron41 v41 #bf4 #cc - ,gen41 xlix41 #c1 #d4 #cd - ,ib41 xlix41 #ai4 #ce - ,hibbard's ,palestine4 #cf - ,gen41 xlviii41 #ai4 #cg - ,gen41 xlix41 #g2 ,deut41 xxxiii42 ,num41 i41 #bc1 and xxvi41 #ad4 #ch - ,gen41 xlix41 #af1 #ag4 #ci - ,deut41 xxxiii41 #bb2 ,judges1 xviii41 and xvi41 #ca4 #dj - ,gen41 xlix41 #hab4 #da - ,ib41 xlix41 #bg4 #db - ,josh41 xviii41 #af1 #ag2 #b ,sam41 v41 #fi4 #dc - ,deut41 xxxiii41 #ab4 #dd - ,judges1 iii41 #ae4 #de - #a ,sam41 ix41 #ba4 #df - #a ,sam41 xiv41 #a4 #dg - ,esther1 ii41 #e4 #dh - ,ib41 ii41 #g4 #di - ,phil41 iii41 #e4 #ej - ,hibbard's ,palestine1 p4 #gf1 and ,clark on ,num41 xxvi4 #ea - ,gen41 xlix41 #bb4 #eb - ,deut41 xxxiii41 #ag4 #ec - ,gen41 xlix41 #be4 #ed - ,deut41 xxxiii41 #acag4 #ee - ,gen41 xlix41 #ad1 #ae4 #ef - ,judges1 v41 #ae4 #eg - ,deut41 xxxiii41 #ah4 #eh - ,gen41 xlix41 #ac4 #ei - ,deut41 xxxiii41 #ai4 #fj - ,napoleon4 #fa - ,gen41 xlix41 #bj4 #fb - ,deut41 xxxiii41 #bd4 #fc - ,hibbard's ,palestine1 p4 #ig4 #fd - #a ,chron41 xii41 #cf4 #fe - ,deut41 xxxiii41 #be4 #ff - ,luke1 ii41 #cf4 #fg - ,luke1 iv41 #bf4 #fh - ,bochart's translation4 #fi - ,deut41 xxxiii41 #bc4 #gj - ,matt41 iv41 #ac4 #ga - ,ps4 cxxv41 #b4 #gb - ,stanley's ,palestine1 p4 #agd4 #gc - ,ps4 xlviii41 #ab1 #ac4 #gd - #a ,pet41 ii41 #f4 #ge - ,ps4 cxliv41 #ab4 #gf - ,isa41 xxviii41 #af4 #gg - ,matt41 iv41 #e1 #f4 #gh - ,anti ,b41 xv41 c4 xi42 ,robinson's ,b4 ,r41 i41 p4 #bij4 #gi - ,mark1 xiii41 #b4 #hj - ,robinson's ,b4 ,r41 i41 p4 #bhg4 #ha - ,barclay's ,c4 ,g4 ,k41 p4 #dei4 #hb - #a ,kings1 vi41 #g4 #hc - ,neh41 ii41 #ac4 #hd - ,jer41 xix41 #b4 #he - #b ,kings1 xi41 #afai4 #hf - ,ib41 xxv41 #d4 #hg - ,jer41 xxxviii41 #gac4 #hh - ,luke1 xxii41 #ee4 #hi - ,book v41 chap4 iv41 p4 #ebh4 #ij - ,jer41 xxvi41 #ah4 #ia - ,josephus1 ,b4 ,j41 b4 v41 c4 iv41 p4 #c4 #ib - ,luke1 xxii41 #ab4 #ic - ,john1 xiii41 #ab4 #id - ,ib41 xx41 #ai4 #ie - ,john1 xx41 #be4 #if - ,acts1 ii41 #a4 #ig - ,acts1 ii41 #bci4 #ih - ,neh41 ii41 #c4 #ii - ,ib41 iii41 #af4 #ajj - ,anti ,b41 vii41 c4 xv41 s4 #c4 #aja - ,ib4 #ajb - ,josephus1 anti ,b41 xvi41 c4 vii41 s4 #a4 #ajc - ,acts1 ii41 #bi4 #ajd - ,barclay's ,city of the ,great ,king1 p4 #bad1 #bae4 #aje - #b ,kings1 v41 #ab4 #ajf - ,ib41 v41 #bg4 #ajg - ,ib41 xv41 #e4 #ajh - ,anti ,b41 xv41 c4 xi41 s4 #c4 #aji - ,b4 ,j41 b4 v41 c4 v41 s4 #h4 #aaj - ,acts1 iv41 #f4 #aaa - ,ib41 v41 #cd4 #aab - ,isa41 lxvi41 #iab4 #aac - ,ps4 lxxix41 #ae4 #aad - ,anti ,b41 xv41 c4 xv41 s4 #c4 #aae - ,luke1 xix41 #dd4 #aaf - ,wars of the ,jews1 b4 vii41 c4 i4 #aag - ,wars of the ,jews1 b4 vi41 c4 vi4 #aah - ,antiquities of the ,jews1 b4 xiv41 c4 iv4 #aai - #a ,kings1 x41 #e4 #abj - ,antiquities1 b4 xv41 c4 xi4 #aba - ,john1 xix41 #e4 #abb - #ga1jjj were slain4 #abc - ,robinson's ,b4 ,r41 vol4 i41 p4 #bihcjj4 #abd - ,gen41 xxii41 #i4 #abe - #a ,chron41 xxi41 #aebj4 #abf - ,ib41 xxi41 #babg4 #abg - #b ,chron41 iv41 #a4 #abh - ,robinson's ,b4 ,r41 vol4 i41 p4 #bii4 #abi - ,josephus1 anti ,b41 xv41 c4 xv41 s4 #c4 #acj - ,barclay's ,city of the ,great ,king1 p4 #ebe4 #aca - ,josephus1 ,w4 ,j41 b4 vi41 c4 iii41 s4 #d2 ,robinson's ,b4 ,r41 vol4 i41 p4 #cfddje4 #acb - ,stanley4 #acc - ,gen41 xxiii41 #d4 #acd - ,matt41 xxiii41 #bg4 #ace - ,dr4 ,barclay4 #acf - ,porter4 #acg - #b ,sam41 xviii41 #ah4 #ach - #b ,chron41 xxi41 #a4 #aci - ,joel1 iii41 #b4 #adj - #b ,chron41 xxiv41 #ba4 #ada - ,matt41 xxiii41 #ce4 #adb - ,matt41 xxiii41 #bg4 #adc - ,ecc41 xii41 #e4 #add - ,matt41 ix41 #bc4 #ade - ,ps4 lvi41 #h4 #adf - #a ,kings1 xi41 #dh4 #adg - ,neh41 ii41 #ad4 #adh - #b ,sam41 xviii41 #ah4 #adi - ,ex41 xv41 #bj1 #ba4 #aej - ,isa41 viii41 #f1 #g4 #aea - ,neh41 iii41 #ae4 #aeb - ,john1 ix41 #ag4 #aec - ,ib41 v41 #g4 #aed - ,josh41 xv41 #g4 #aee - ,maccabees1 i41 #ai1 #bb4 #aef - ,josh41 xv41 #g4 #aeg - #b ,sam41 xvii41 #ag4 #aeh - #a ,kings1 i41 #i4 #aei - ,josh41 xv41 #h4 #afj - ,jer41 vii41 #ca4 #afa - ,ib41 vii41 #cb4 #afb - #b ,kings1 xxiii41 #aj4 #afc - ,josephus1 ,w4 ,j41 b4 vi41 c4 viii41 s4 #e4 #afd - ,josephus1 ,w4 ,j41 b4 v41 c4 xiii41 s4 #g4 #afe - ,mark1 ix41 #dd4 #aff - ,matt41 xxvii41 #daj4 #afg - ,ib41 xxvii41 #e4 #afh - #a ,kings1 i41 #dj4 #afi - #b ,chron41 xxxii41 #cj4 #agj - ,isa41 vii41 #c4 #aga - ,ib41 xxxvi41 #baj4 #agb - #b ,kings1 xx41 #bj4 #agc - #b ,chron41 xxxii41 #cj4 #agd - #b ,chron41 xxxii41 #cd4 #age - ,eccl41 ii4 #agf - ,gen41 xxi41 #be4 #agg - ,num41 xx41 #ai4 #agh - #a ,sam41 xxv41 #aa4 #agi - ,prov41 v41 #ae4 #ahj - ,john1 iv41 #ad4 #aha - ,study of ,words1 p4 #ac4 #ahb - ,robinson4 #ahc - ,lazarus4 #ahd - ,john1 xi41 #ca4 #ahe - ,luke1 x41 #ch4 #ahf - ,john1 xi41 #g4 #ahg - ,matt41 xxvi41 #f4 #ahh - ,john1 xii41 #c4 #ahi - ,luke1 x41 #chdb4 #aij - ,john1 xi4 #aia - ,mark1 xiv41 #i4 #aib - ,luke1 xviii4 and xix4 #aic - ,john1 xii41 #aaa4 #aid - ,zech41 ix41 #i4 #aie - ,matt41 xxi41 #i4 #aif - ,zech41 xiv41 #d4 #aig - #b ,sam41 xv4 and xvi4 #aih - ,num41 xix41 #baj4 #aii - ,ezek41 xi41 #bc4 #bjj - ,john1 xviii41 #b4 #bja - ,matt41 xxiv41 #cda4 #bjb - ,ib41 xxv4 #bjc - ,john1 xviii4 #bjd - ,luke1 xxiv41 #ej4 #bje - ,acts1 i41 #ab4 #bjf - #b ,samuel1 v41 #bd4 #bjg - ,john1 xii41 #aab4 #bjh - ,mark1 xi41 #abad4 #bji - ,mark1 xi41 #aeag2 ,john1 ii41 #acag4 #baj - ,matt41 xxi41 #ae1 #af4 #baa - ,matt41 xxi4xxvi4 #bab - ,mark1 xiv41 #aj1 #aa4 #bac - ,matt41 xxvi41 #bj4 #bad - ,mark1 xiv41 #bbbe4 #bae - ,see ,john1 xiii4xvii42 ,matt41 xxvi41 #cj4 #baf - ,luke1 xxiii41 #ach4 #bag - ,this bridge will probably last for #ajjj years to come4 #bah - ,john1 xix41 #bj4 #bai - ,heb41 xii41 #ab4 #bbj - ,luke1 xxiii41 #bf4 #bba - ,john1 xix41 #bj4 #bbb - ,matt41 xxvii41 #ee4 #bbc - ,luke1 xxiii41 #bg4 #bbd - ,matt41 xxvii41 #dadb4 #bbe - ,ib41 xxvii41 #cidj4 #bbf - ,matt41 xxvii41 #ea4 #bbg - ,ib41 xxvii41 #eb4 #bbh - ,john1 xix41 #da4 #bbi - ,matt41 xxvii41 #ca4 #bcj - ,luke1 xxiii41 #cc4 #bca - ,john1 xix41 #bj4 #bcb - ,ib41 xix41 #da4 #bcc - ,matt41 xxviii41 #fg4 #bcd - ,acts1 i41 #iac4 #bce - ,ib41 ii41 #bb4 #bcf - ,ib41 ii41 #haa4 #bcg - ,ib41 ii41 #dddf4 #bch - ,ib41 viii41 #a4 #bci - ,josephus1 ,b4 ,j41 b4 vii41 c4 i4 #bdj - ,robinson's ,biblical ,researches1 vol4 i41 p4 #djgdah4 ,barclay's ,city of the ,great ,king1 p4 #baibch4 #bda - ,see ,lane's ,egypt4 #bdb - ,ex41 xii41 #abj4 #bdc - ,luke1 xiii41 #be4 #bdd - ,ex41 xii41 #d4 #bde - ,j4 ,d4 ,phelps4 ,esq4 #bdf - ,josh41 xv41 #g4 #bdg - ,matt41 iv41 #a4 #bdh - ,luke1 x41 #cjcg4 #bdi - #a ,kings1 xvii41 #cg4 #bej - ,josh41 vii41 #babf4 #bea - ,num41 xxxiii41 #dg1 #dh4 #beb - ,josh41 ii4 #bec - ,ib41 vi41 #abe4 #bed - ,ib41 vi41 #bf2 #a ,kings1 xvi41 #cd4 #bee - #b ,sam41 x41 #e4 #bef - #b ,kings1 ii41 #e4 #beg - ,ib41 ii41 #fah4 #beh - ,ib41 ii41 #aibd4 #bei - ,josephus1 anti ,b41 xiii41 c4 vii41 s4 #d2 #a ,mac41 xvi4 #ad1 #ae4 #bfj - ,anti ,b41 xv41 c4 iv4 #bfa - ,ib41 b4 xvii41 c4 x4 #bfb - ,luke1 xix42 ,mark1 x41 #df4 #bfc - ,anti ,b41 v41 c4 i41 s4 #d4 #bfd - ,josh41 iv41 #abj4 #bfe - ,ib41 v41 #i4 #bff - ,ib41 v41 #aj4 #bfg - ,ib41 v41 #acae4 #bfh - ,ib41 xviii41 #a4 #bfi - #a ,sam41 vii41 #af2 x41 #h4 #bgj - ,ib41 xi41 #ae4 #bga - ,ib41 xiii41 #had4 #bgb - #b ,sam41 xix41 #ae4 #bgc - #b ,kings1 iv41 #chda4 #bgd - ,ib41 v4 #bge - ,deut41 xxxiv41 #c4 #bgf - #b ,kings1 ii41 #ba4 #bgg - ,robinson's ,b4 ,r41 vol4 i41 p4 #efb4 #bgh - ,b4 ,j41 b4 iv41 c4 x41 s4 #c4 #bgi - ,josh41 xi41 #faj4 #bhj - ,josh41 xii41 #be4 #bha - ,gen41 xxxii41 xxxiii4 #bhb - ,judges1 vii41 #bd1 #be4 #bhc - ,ib41 xii41 #e1 #f4 #bhd - ,num41 xxii41 #da4 #bhe - ,ib41 xxiii41 #ad4 #bhf - ,ib41 xxiii41 #bh4 #bhg - ,num41 xxiii41 #aj4 #bhh - ,ib41 xxiii41 #bd4 #bhi - ,ib41 xxiv41 #e4 #bij - ,deut41 xxxiv41 #ac4 #bia - ,ib41 xxxiv41 #e4 #bib - ,josh41 iii41 #af4 #bic - ,josh41 iii41 #af4 #bid - ,ib41 iii41 #ae4 #bie - #b ,kings1 ii4 #bif - #b ,kings1 v41 #ab4 #big - ,luke1 iii41 #c4 #bih - ,john1 i41 #bh4 #bii - ,ib41 iii41 #bc4 #cjj - ,clark's ,comment4 on ,john1 i41 #bh4 #cja - ,stanley's ,palestine1 p4 #cjd1 #cje4 #cjb - ,matt41 iii41 #a4 #cjc - ,ib41 iii41 #e4 #cjd - ,gen41 xiii41 #aj4 #cje - ,gen41 xiii41 #aj4 #cjf - ,josephus1 b4 xviii41 c4 v4 #cjg - ,num41 xxii41 #cf4 #cjh - ,judges1 xi41 #ai4 #cji - ,ib41 xi41 #ac4 #caj - ,josh41 xiii41 #h4 #caa - #b ,kings1 iii41 #cg4 #cab - ,gen41 xix41 #agbj4 #cac - ,ib41 xix41 #bh4 #cad - #b ,sam41 viii41 #ac4 #cae - #b ,kings1 xiv41 #g4 #caf - ,josephus1 ,b4 ,j41 b4 vii41 c4 viii4 #cag - #a ,sam41 xxiv41 #ag4 #cah - #b ,chron41 xx41 #a1 #b4 #cai - ,species of fragrant grape4,,thompson4 #cbj - ,cant41 i41 #ad4 #cba - #a ,sam41 xxv41 #adb4 #cbb - ,judges1 iv41 #ai4 #cbc - ,josh41 xix41 #ae4 #cbd - ,matt41 ii41 #a4 #cbe - ,micah1 v41 #b4 #cbf - ,ib4 #cbg - ,gen41 xxxv41 #ahbj4 #cbh - ,ruth1 iv41 #ac4 #cbi - ,ib41 iv41 #agbb4 #ccj - ,luke1 ii41 #g4 #cca - ,matt41 ii41 #aa4 #ccb - ,luke1 ii41 #g4 #ccc - ,anti ,b41 b4 xv41 c4 ix41 s4 iv42 ,b4 ,j41 b4 i41 c4 xxi41 s4 x42 ,ib41 b4 iv41 c4 ix41 s4 v4 #ccd - #b ,sam41 xiv41 #abj4 #cce - ,amos1 i41 #a4 #ccf - #a ,sam41 xxii41 #ac4 #ccg - #b ,sam41 xxiii41 #adag4 #cch - ,ib41 xxii41 #c1 #d4 #cci - #a ,sam41 xxii41 #a4 #cdj - ,ib4 #cda - #a ,chron41 xi41 #ae4 #cdb - ,gray4 #cdc - ,num41 xiii41 #bb4 #cdd - ,gen41 xiii41 #ah4 #cde - ,ib41 xiv41 #ac4 #cdf - ,gen41 xiv41 #ad4 #cdg - ,ib41 xviii4 #cdh - ,ib41 xix41 #bh4 #cdi - ,ib41 xvi41 xvii4 #cej - ,ib41 xxiii4 #cea - ,ib41 xxxv41 #bi4 #ceb - ,ib41 l41 #ac4 #cec - ,josh41 xv41 #ac4 #ced - #b ,sam41 ii41 #aa4 #cee - #b ,sam41 iv41 #ab4 #cef - ,see ,stanley's ,account of the ,visit of the ,prince of ,wales1 ,appendix ,,ii4 to his ,history of the ,jewish ,church4 #ceg - ,gen41 xxi41 #cc4 #ceh - ,ib41 xxii41 #aai4 #cei - ,ib41 xxv41 #bgcd4 #cfj - ,ib41 xxviii4 #cfa - ,ib41 xlvi41 #a4 #cfb - #a ,kings1 xix41 #ad4 #cfc - ,gen41 xviii41 #b4 #cfd - ,ib41 xviii41 #d4 #cfe - ,ib41 xxix41 #f4 #cff - ,ib41 xviii41 #h4 #cfg - ,ib41 xviii41 #i4 #cfh - ,num41 xiii41 #afbf4 #cfi - ,micah1 iv41 #d4 #cgj - ,num41 xiii4 #cga - ,matt41 xxi41 #cc4 #cgb - ,josh41 xv41 #eh4 #cgc - ,gen41 xxxv41 #afbj4 #cgd - #b ,sam41 v41 #bd4 #cge - ,deut41 ii41 #bc4 #cgf - ,acts1 viii41 #bgbi4 #cgg - ,luke1 i41 #ci4 #cgh - #a ,sam41 v4 and vi4 #cgi - ,judges1 xiii41 #b4 #chj - ,ib41 xiv41 #a4 #cha - ,judges1 xiv41 #e1 #f4 #chb - ,ib41 xiv41 #ad4 #chc - ,ib41 xv41 #d4 #chd - ,ib41 xvi41 #d4 #che - ,ib41 xvi41 #eba4 #chf - #a ,sam41 xvii4 #chg - #a ,sam41 xxi41 #ajae4 #chh - ,robinson4 #chi - ,josh41 x41 #ca1 #cb4 #cij - #a ,chron41 xi41 #eab4 #cia - ,gen41 x41 #ai4 #cib - ,josh41 xiii41 #c4 #cic - ,judges1 xiii41 #a4 #cid - ,judges1 xvi41 #bc4 #cie - ,ib41 xvi41 #ba4 #cif - ,heb41 xi41 #cb4 #cig - ,robinson4 #cih - ,zeph41 ii41 #d4 #cii - ,zech41 ix41 #e4 #djj - #a ,sam41 iv41 v4 #dja - #b ,chron41 xxvi41 #f4 #djb - ,neh41 xiii41 #bcbf4 #djc - ,acts1 viii41 #dj4 #djd - ,zech41 ix41 #f4 #dje - #b ,chron41 xxvi41 #f4 #djf - #a ,sam41 v41 #ajab4 #djg - ,josh41 xix41 #df4 #djh - ,acts1 ix41 #cf4 #dji - ,josh41 xix41 #df4 #daj - #b ,chr41 ii41 #af2 ,ezra1 iii41 #g4 #daa - ,jonah1 i41 #c4 #dab - ,acts1 ix41 #cf4 #dac - ,ib41 x41 #f4 #dad - ,judge4 #dae - ,ruth1 xiv41 #aa4 #daf - ,ex41 vii41 #ab4 #dag - #a ,chron41 viii41 #ab4 #dah - ,acts1 ix41 #cb4 #dai - #b ,chron41 xxviii41 #ah4 #dbj - ,deut41 xxii41 #aj4 #dba - ,josh41 xxi41 #bb4 #dbb - ,josh41 x4 #dbc - ,inn4 #dbd - ,josh41 xviii41 #be4 #dbe - ,ib41 xxi41 #ag4 #dbf - #a ,chron41 xvi41 #ci4 #dbg - #b ,sam41 ii41 #af4 #dbh - ,ib41 ii41 #ag4 #dbi - ,ib41 xx41 #haj4 #dcj - #a ,kings1 iii41 #eab4 #dca - ,judges1 xx4 #dcb - #a ,sam41 vii41 #fab4 #dcc - #a ,sam41 x41 #bc1 #bd4 #dcd - #b ,kings1 xxv41 #be4 #dce - #a ,sam41 xi41 #d4 #dcf - ,judges1 xix4 and xx4 #dcg - #a ,sam41 ix41 #a1 #b4 #dch - ,ib41 x41 #bf4 #dci - #a ,sam41 xi4 #ddj - ,ib41 xiv4 #dda - ,ib41 xvi4 #ddb - ,ib41 xviii4 #ddc - ,ib41 xix4 #ddd - ,ib41 xxv4 #dde - ,ib41 xxxi4 #ddf - #b ,sam41 xxi41 #a4 #ddg - ,ib41 xxi41 #h4 #ddh - #b ,sam41 xxi4 #ddi - ,matt41 xii4 #dej - #a ,sam41 xxii4 #dea - #a ,kings1 ii4 #deb - #a ,sam41 xiii4 #dec - ,ib4 #ded - ,gen41 xxv4 #dee - ,ezek41 ix41 #b4 #def - ,john1 x41 #c4 #deg - ,gen41 xii41 #h4 #deh - ,ib41 xiii41 #ajad4 #dei - ,mark1 ii41 #i4 #dfj - ,gen41 xxviii4 #dfa - ,ib41 xxxv4 #dfb - #a ,sam41 vii4 #dfc - #a ,kings1 xiii4 #dfd - #b ,kings1 ii4 #dfe - ,ib41 xxiii4 #dff - ,amos1 v41 #e4 #dfg - ,dr4 ,robinson4 #dfh - ,judges1 xxi41 #ai4 #dfi - ,josh41 xviii4 #dgj - #a ,sam41 i41 #bd2 ii41 #aah4 #dga - ,ib41 iv4 #dgb - ,judges1 xxi4 #dgc - #a ,kings1 xiv4 #dgd - ,jer41 vii41 #ab4 #dge - ,judges1 xxi41 #ai4 #dgf - ,gen41 xlviii41 #bj4 #dgg - ,gen41 xii4 #dgh - ,ib41 xxxiii4 #dgi - ,ib41 xxxiv4 #dhj - ,ib41 xxxvii4 #dha - ,josh41 viii4 #dhb - ,judges1 ix4 #dhc - #a ,kings1 xii4 #dhd - #b ,kings1 xvii4 #dhe - ,deut41 xxvii41 #aabf2 ,ib41 xxviii42 ,josh41 viii41 #cjce4 #dhf - ,one hundred lambs1 or coins with the image of a lamb upon them4 ,gen41 xxxiii41 #ai4 #dhg - ,john1 iv41 #adb4 #dhh - ,gen41 l41 #be4 #dhi - ,josh41 xxiv41 #cb4 #dij - ,gen41 xlix41 #bb4 #dia - ,cant41 vi41 #d4 #dib - #a ,kings1 xvi41 #h4 #dic - #b ,kings1 v41 #bjbg4 #did - ,luke1 xvii41 #aaac4 #die - ,ex41 xii41 #aa4 #dif - ,sixty piastres4 #dig - #a ,kings1 xvi41 #bc1 #bd4 #dih - ,cant41 vi41 #d4 #dii - #a ,kings1 xvi41 #cc4 #ejj - ,ib41 xx4 #eja - #b ,kings1 vi41 #abbb4 #ejb - #b ,kings1 vi41 #bdcc2 ,ib41 vii41 #abj4 #ejc - ,acts4 viii4 #ejd - ,book xvi41 p4 #caf4 #eje - ,micah1 i41 #f4 #ejf - ,hosea1 xiii41 #af4 #ejg - #a ,chron41 xxvii41 #bi4 #ejh - ,isa41 lxv41 #aj4 #eji - ,josephus1 ,a4 ,j41 b4 xv4 #eaj - ,acts1 viii4 #eaa - ,acts1 xxi4 #eab - ,ib41 xxiii41 xxiv41 xxv41 and xxvii4 #eac - ,a4 ,b41 b4 xv4 #ead - ,acts1 xii4 #eae - ,josephus1 ,a4 ,j41 b4 xix4 #eaf - ,josh41 xi4 #eag - ,isa41 xxxv41 #b4 #eah - ,amos1 i41 #b4 #eai - #a ,kings1 xviii4 #ebj - #b ,kings1 iv4 #eba - ,gen41 xlix41 #ae4 #ebb - ,josephus1 ,a4 ,j41 b4 v4 #ebc - ,judges1 iv4 #ebd - #b ,chron41 xxxv4 #ebe - #a ,sam41 xxxi4 #ebf - ,ps4 lxxxix41 #ab4 #ebg - ,judges1 vii41 #c4 #ebh - ,ib41 vii4 #ebi - #a ,sam41 xxviii4 and xxxi4 #ecj - #a ,sam41 xxviii4 and xxxi4 #eca - #a ,kings1 xix4 and xxii4 #ecb - #b ,kings1 iv4 #ecc - ,luke1 vii4 #ecd - #a ,sam41 xxviii4 #ece - ,josh41 xix4 #ecf - ,judges1 iv4 #ecg - ,ib41 viii4 #ech - ,hosea1 v4 #eci - ,ps4 lxxxix4 #edj - ,jer41 xlvi41 #ah4 #eda - ,matt41 xvii41 #a2 ,mark1 ix41 #b4 #edb - ,luke1 ix41 #bh4 #edc - ,matt41 xvii41 #bd1 and xix41 #a4 #edd - ,luke1 ix41 #cg4 #ede - ,luke1 iii41 #a4 #edf - ,matt41 xix41 #a4 #edg - 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ch4 x41 s4 #h4 #ehb - ,robinson's ,b4 ,r41 vol4 iii41 p4 #cdh4 #ehc - ,matt41 iv41 #ac4 #ehd - ,ib41 ix41 #a4 #ehe - ,mark1 i41 #bacd4 #ehf - ,matt41 ix41 #bi4 #ehg - ,luke1 vii41 #aaj4 #ehh - ,mark1 v41 #bbdc4 #ehi - ,matt41 xvii41 #bdbg4 #eij - ,ib41 xiii4 #eia - ,ib41 ix4 #eib - ,ib41 xv4 #eic - ,john1 vi41 #bd4 #eid - ,mark1 ix41 #ccej4 #eie - ,matt41 xi41 #bc1 #bd4 #eif - ,matt41 iv41 #ahbb4 #eig - ,luke1 v4 #eih - ,mark1 vi41 #cb4 #eii - ,john1 vi41 #a4 #fjj - ,ib41 vi41 #ag4 #fja - ,matt41 xiv41 #cd1 and ,mark1 vi41 #ec4 #fjb - ,john1 vi41 #bd4 #fjc - ,mark1 iv41 #cgci4 #fjd - ,matt41 xi41 #ba1 #bb4 #fje - ,b4 ,j41 b4 iv41 ch4 i4 #fjf - ,josh41 xi41 #faj4 #fjg - ,nephew4 #fjh - ,gen41 xiv41 #adaf4 #fji - ,judges1 xviii4 #faj - ,deut41 xxxiii41 #bb4 #faa - ,judges1 xx41 #a4 #fab - ,robinson4 #fac - ,josephus1 ,antiq41 b4 xv41 ch4 x41 s4 #c4 #fad - ,matt41 xvi4 and xvii42 ,mark1 viii4 and ix4 #fae - ,deut41 iii41 #i4 #faf - ,ib41 iv41 #dh4 #fag - ,ib41 iii41 #h4 #fah - ,stanley's ,s4 and ,p41 #cif4 #fai - ,ps4 lxxxix41 #ab4 #fbj - ,sion4 #fba - ,ps4 cxxxiii41 #c4 #fbb - ,josephus1 ,b4 ,j41 b4 i41 ch4 xvi4 #fbc - ,matt41 iv4 and v4 #fbd - ,gibbon's ,rome1 vol4 vi41 c4 lix42 ,tytler's ,u4 ,h41 vol4 iv41 c4 ix42 ,robinson's ,b4 ,r41 vol4 ii41 s4 xv41 p4 #cgbcgg4 #fbe - ,john1 i41 #df4 #fbf - ,luke1 iv41 #bh1 #bi4 #fbg - ,luke1 i4 and ii4 #fbh - ,ib41 iv41 #af4 #fbi - ,matt41 xiii41 #ee1 #ef4 #fcj - ,luke1 iv41 #ca4 #fca - ,porter4 #fcb - ,gen41 x41 #ae4 #fcc - ,tytler's ,u4 ,h41 vol4 i41 p4 #hf2 ,hibbard's ,palestine4 #fcd - ,john1 xxi41 #b4 #fce - ,ib41 ii41 #aaa4 #fcf - ,ib41 iv41 #dfed4 #fcg - ,gen41 xlix41 #bj2 ,deut41 xxxiii41 #bd4 #fch - ,judges1 v41 #ag4 #fci - ,judges1 i41 #ca4 #fdj - ,acts1 xxi41 #g4 #fda - ,french of ',akka4 #fdb - ,gibbon's ,rome1 vol4 vi41 p4 #df1 #dg4 #fdc - ,josh41 xix41 #bi4 #fdd - ,isa41 xxiii4 #fde - ,josh41 xix4 #fdf - #a ,kings1 v4 #fdg - ,anti ,b41 b4 ix41 c4 xiv4 #fdh - ,anti ,b41 b4 vii41 c4 ii41 ,hiram's ,letter to ,solomon4 #fdi - ,ib41 b4 ix41 c4 xiv4 #fej - ,amos1 i41 #i4 #fea - ,joel1 iii41 #d1 #e4 #feb - ,ib41 iii41 #f4 #fec - ,ezek41 xxvi41 #b4 #fed - ,ezek41 xxvi41 #ba4 #fee - ,ib41 xxvi41 #ab4 #fef - ,ib41 xxvi41 #ad4 #feg - ,acts1 xxi41 #d4 #feh - ,robinson1 vol4 ii41 p4 #dgj4 #fei - ,gibbon4 #ffj - #a ,kings1 xvii4 #ffa - ,mark1 vii41 #bdcj4 #ffb - ,gen41 x41 #ai4 #ffc - ,ib41 x41 #ae2 ,josephus1 ,anti ,b41 b4 i41 c4 vi4 #ffd - ,josh41 xix41 #bh4 #ffe - ,pope's ,il41 b4 vi41 #cfjcgj4 #fff - ,isa41 xxiii41 #ab4 #ffg - #a ,kings1 v4 #ffh - ,volney's ,trav41 vol4 i42 ,paxton's ,illustrations1 vol4 i4 #ffi - ,deut41 iii41 #be4 #fgj - ,isa41 xxix41 #ag4 #fga - ,isa41 xxxvii41 #bd4 #fgb - ,hab41 ii41 #ag4 #fgc - ,song1 iv41 #h4 #fgd - ,ib41 iv41 #aa4 #fge - ,hosea1 xiv41 #g4 #fgf - ,ps4 lxxii41 #af4 #fgg - ,isa41 xxxv41 #a1 #b4 #fgh - ,ps4 civ41 #af4 #fgi - #a ,kings1 v4 and vi42 ,ezra1 iii41 #g4 #fhj - ,isa41 ii41 #ab1 #ac4 #fha - ,amos1 ii41 #i4 #fhb - ,ezek41 xxxi41 #caj4 #fhc - ,ps4 xxix41 #d1 #e4 #fhd - ,zech41 xi41 #ab4 #fhe - ,ps41 xcii41 #ab4 #fhf - ,porter's ,palestine2 ,thomson's ,land and the ,book1 vol4 i41 p4 #bdh4 #fhg - #a ,kings1 xix41 #ae2 #b ,kings1 viii41 #gae4 #fhh - ,acts1 ix41 #abb4 #fhi - ,gen41 xv41 #b4 #fij - #b ,kings1 v41 #aad4 #fia - ,ib41 viii4 #fib - ,acts1 ix4 #fic - #b ,cor41 xi41 #cc4 #fid - #b ,kings1 v41 #ah4 #fie - ,ib41 xvi41 #ajaf2 ,porter's ,five ,years in ,damascus4 ,,transcriber',s ,,notes4 ,the following corrections have been made in the text3 ,page #cg3 ,sentence starting3 ,surmounting this corner4444 - #8assurring' replaced with #8assuring' 7assuring him of the charge7 ,page #dj3 ,sentence starting3 ,this section of the wall4444 - #8,pilot' replaced with #8,pilate' 7in which ,pilate held his 8,judgment ,hall407 ,page #afg3 ,sentence starting3 ,expressing surprise at her absence4444 - #8househould' replaced with #8household' 7if the household be too little7 ,page #bce3 ,sentence starting3 ,having an elevation of4444 - #8#bh1jjj' replaced with #8#b1hjj' 7,having an elevation of #b1hjj feet7 ,page #cji3 ,sentence starting3 ,nearly two centuries later4444 - #8,hanor' replaced with #8,hamor' 7at the hand of the children of ,hamor17 ,page #cfe3 ,sentence starting3 ,her house1 with the4444 - #8soliel' replaced with #8soleil' 7the fatal coup de soleil7 ,page #cia3 ,sentence starting3 ,considered one of the most4444 - #8impotrant' replaced with #8important' 7one of the most important cities7 ,page #djd3 ,sentence starting3 ,st4 ,john1 with greater4444 - #8exacitude' replaced with #8exactitude' 7with greater exactitude1 says7 ,page #dfd3 ,sentence starting3 ,the shag-bark is coarse4444 - #8fail' replaced with #8fall' 7and fall in early winter27 ,footnote #bj3 ,sentence starting3 ,josephus1 ,anti ,b4444 - added omitted volume reference #8b4 xv41' 7,josephus1 ,anti ,b41 b4 xv41 c4 iv47 ,footnote #efj3 ,sentence starting3 ,matt41 xiv4444 - #8lxxviii' replaced with #8xviii' 7,josephus1 ,antiq41 b4 xviii41 c4 v47