,,p]fumes ,,& ,,_! ,,prep>ation4 ,,conta9+ ,,complete ,,directions ,,= ,,mak+ ,,h&k]*ief ,,p]fumes1 ,,smell+-,,salts1 ,,sa*ets1 ,,fumigat+ ,,pa/ils2 ,,prep>ations ,,= ,,! ,,c>e ,,( ,,! ,,sk91 ,,! ,,m\?1 ,,! ,,hair2 ,,cosmetics1 ,,hair ,,dyes1 ,,& ,,o!r ,,toilet ,,articles4 ,,) ,a ,,detail$ ,,description ,,( ,,aromatic ,,sub/ances2 ,,_! ,,nature1 ,,te/s ,,( ,,purity1 ,,& ,,:olesale ,,manufacture4 ,,by ,,george ,,william ,,ask9son1 ,,dr4 ,,*em41 ,,manufactur] ,,( ,,p]fum]y4 ,,translat$ ,,f ,,! ,,?ird ,,g]man ,,edition ,,by ,,isidor ,,fur/4 7,,) ,,corrections ,,& ,,additions ,,by ,,sev]al ,,exp]ts47 ,illu/rat$ ) #cb ,engrav+s4 ,,new ,,york3 ,n4 ,w4 ,,h5ley ,,co41 #aej ,,nassau ,,/4 ,,london3 ,e4 ,f4 ,n4 ,,spon1 #abe1 ,,/r&4 #ahib4 ,,copyright$1 #ahib1 ,,by ,,norman ,w4 ,,h5ley ,,co4 ,,preface4 ,! great progress :i* ! art ( p]fum]y has made dur+ rec5t times is due to sev]al causes1 ! *ief "o ( :i* is fully realiz$ only by ! manufactur] on a l>ge scale1 :o /&s1 z x 71 beh9d ! sc5es & has access to facts & in=mation conc]n+ ! mat]ials he uses1 :i* are n s easily accessible to ! dilettante 9 p]fum]y1 or rema9 altoge!r unkn[n to ! latt]4 ,?is important factor is ! advance 9 our k ( ! physical & *emical prop]ties ( ! sev]al sub/ances us$ 9 p]fum]y1 :]eby we c bett] discrim9ate betwe5 ! g5u9e & ! spuri\s1 ! *oice/ & ! inf]ior1 ?us insur+1 at ! v />t1 a satisfactory result1 in/ead ( be+ compell$ to resort to wa/eful exp]im5tation & empiricism4 ,a bett] k has also be5 ga9$ ( ! s\rces ( ! comm]cial v>ieties ( _m ( ! crude products1 & a bett] insight into ! conditions affect+ _! qualities or prop]ties4 ,a m exhau/ive /udy ( ! proximate pr9ciples ( _m ( ! ess5tial oils has ?r[n an entirely new light ^u ?is h]et(ore obscure class ( bodies1 plac+ into our h&s new products ( def9ite *emical composition1 unv>y+ 9 physical prop]ties1 & _m ( !m valuable additions to ! p]fum]'s /ock ( +r$i5ts4 ,syn!tic *emi/ry has also add$ to ! li/ ( mat]ials requir$ by ! p]fum]1 & is surely go+ to add _m m to x h]eaft]4 ,?\gh "s ( ^!1 l ! new artificial musk1 are n yet 9 a condition to ent] into s]i\s competition ) ! natural products1 yet x is m]ely a "q ( "t :5 ! latt] ne$ no long] be dep5d$ ^u4 ,! increas+ dem&s = ! /aple articles us$ by ! p]fum] h also caus$ a l>ge increase 9 ! cultivation ( _m important plants 9 v>i\s p>ts ( ! _w1 & h l$ to ! e/abli%m5t ( new plantations1 9 "s cases to su* an ext5t t ! comm]cial relations h be5 entirely revolutioniz$1 new t]ritories produc+ l>g] crops & a f9] product ?an ! old home ( ! plant4 ,! exploration ( hi!rto unkn[n or imp]fectly kn[n c\ntries has also l>gely add$ to ! p]fum]'s art1 & is likely to cont9ue to d ?is = a long "t to come1 s9ce x is n[ well kn[n t va/ di/ricts1 m p>ticul>ly 9 tropical ,africa1 are inhabit$ by a flora ab\nd+ 9 new odorif]\s plants4 ,9 spite ( all ?is expansion ( ! p]fum]'s /ock ( trade1 h[ev]1 :i* results 9 ! p]iodical introduction ( new comp\nds1 !re is a v l>ge numb] ( popul> odor\s mixtures :i* rema9 9 /eady dem&1 hav+ tak5 su* firm root among civiliz$ nations t !y are n likely to be displac$4 ,x is m p>ticul>ly ) a view to af=d in=mation reg>d+ ^! latt] t a "w l ! pres5t is desirable & necess>y4 ,a treatise on p]fum]y is expect$ to place into ! h&s ( ! pur*as] reasonably reliable processes = prep>+ ! mo/ g5]ally approv$ simple or comp\nd p]fumes1 z well z accurate in=mation conc]n+ ! orig9 & prop]ties ( ! v>i\s +r$i5ts1 toge!r ) practical h9ts reg>d+ ! det]m9ation ( _! g5u95ess & purity4 ,x is a frequ5t compla9t ( ^? :o make prep>ations aft] =mulas publi%$ 9 works l ! pres5t1 t !y d n succe$ 9 obta9+ fully satisfactory products4 ,ano!r compla9t ( pur*as]s ( su* works is ?is3 t !y fail to f9d =mulas yield+ prep>ations id5tical 9 e respect ) c]ta9 celebrat$ p]fumes :i* h made ! reputation & =tune ( c]ta9 firms4 ,reg>d+ ! fir/ compla9t1 we w\ld say t ! failure lies g5]ally ) ! compla9ant himself1 ?r\gh c>elessness 9 ! selection ( ! mat]ials or disreg>d ( ! giv5 directions4 ,conc]n+ ! second compla9t1 a mom5t's reflection mu/ conv9ce any "o t =mulas :i* are ! result ( ! /udy & exp]im5tation ( ye>s1 & ! products ( :i* are ! ma9 /ock ( trade ( c]ta9 firms1 are c>efully gu>d$1 & n likely to be communicat$ to o!rs4 ,moreov]1 9 _m cases ev5 a publication ( ! compon5t p>ts w\ld n be ( mu* avail1 = ! manufactur] on ! l>ge scale has facilities = bl5d+ & season+ 8 products :i* ! mak] on a small scale does n possess1 & x is ?is "p ( ! art p>ticul>ly ^u :i* ! quality ( ! products dep5ds4 ,9 prep>+ ! pres5t treatise = ! ,am]ican public _m *anges 7 f\nd necess>y 9 ! orig9al text1 9 ord] to make ! in=mation giv5 m correct or def9ite1 & s br+ ! "w m abrea/ ( ! pres5t "t4 ,9 addition to v>i\s improvem5ts & additions made 9 ! work+ =mulas compris+ ! second portion ( ! "w1 ! description ( ! natural products us$ z +r$i5ts1 ^u ! quality & selection ( :i* ! success ( ! p]fum] mo/ly dep5ds1 has be5 c>efully revis$1 & s f> z ! objects ( ?is "w requir$1 complet$ by ,dr4 ,*>les ,rice1 ,associate ,editor ( ,am]ican ,druggi/1 etc41 9 consultation ) sev]al exp]ts 9 ! art ( p]fum]y4 ,,cont5ts4 ,,*apt] ,i4 ,,page ,! ,hi/ory ( ,p]fum]y #a ,,*apt] ,,ii4 ,ab\t ,aromatic ,sub/ances 9 ,g5]al #f ,,*apt] ,,iii4 ,odors f ! ,vegetable ,k+dom #ac ,,*apt] ,,iv4 ,! ,aromatic ,vegetable ,sub/ances ,employ$ 9 ,p]fum]y #bj ,,*apt] ,v4 ,! ,animal ,sub/ances ,us$ 9 ,p]fum]y #eg ,,*apt] ,,vi4 ,! ,*emical ,products ,us$ 9 ,p]fum]y #fc ,a4 ,*emicals ,us$ = ! ,extraction ( ,aromatic ,sub/ances #fd ,b4 ,*emical ,products ,us$ = ! ,prep>ation ( ,p]fumes #fh ,c4 ,! ,colors ,us$ 9 ,p]fum]y #hg ,,*apt] ,,vii4 ,! ,extraction ( ,odors #hg ,,*apt] ,,viii4 ,! ,special ,*>act]i/ics ( ,aromatic ,sub/ances #aah ,,*apt] ,,ix4 ,! ,adult]ation ( ,ess5tial ,oils & _! ,recognition #aci ,,*apt] ,x4 ,! ,ess5ces or ,extracts ,employ$ 9 ,p]fum]y #adf ,,*apt] ,,xi4 ,directions = ,mak+ ! ,mo/ ,important ,ess5ces & ,extracts #aej ,,*apt] ,,xii4 ,! ,division ( ,p]fum]y #aff ,,*apt] ,,xiii4 ,! ,manufacture ( ,h&k]*ief ,p]fumes1 ,b\quets1 or ,aromatic ,wat]s #afg ,,*apt] ,,xiv4 ,=mulas = ,h&k]*ief ,p]fumes #afi ,,*apt] ,,xv4 ,ammoniacal & ,acid ,p]fumes #aii ,,*apt] ,,xvi4 ,dry ,p]fumes #bjg ,,*apt] ,,xvii4 ,=mulas = ,dry ,p]fumes 7,sa*ets7 #bji ,,*apt] ,,xviii4 ,! ,p]fumes ,us$ = ,fumigation #bad ,,*apt] ,,xix4 ,hygi5ic & ,cosmetic ,p]fum]y #bbe ,,*apt] ,,xx4 ,prep>ations = ! ,c>e ( ! ,sk9 #bbg ,,*apt] ,,xxi4 ,=mulas = ! ,prep>ation ( ,emulsions1 ,meals1 ,pa/es1 ,vegetable ,milk1 & ,cold-,creams #bcj ,,*apt] ,,xxii4 ,! ,prep>ations ,us$ = ! ,c>e ( ! ,hair 7,pomades & ,hair ,oils7 #bde ,,*apt] ,,xxiii4 ,=mulas = ! ,manufacture ( ,pomades & ,hair ,oils #bdg ,,*apt] ,,xxiv4 ,prep>ations = ! ,c>e ( ! ,m\? #beg ,,*apt] ,,xxv4 ,cosmetic ,p]fum]y #bfi ,,*apt] ,,xxvi4 ,sk9 ,cosmetics & ,face ,lotions #bgj ,,*apt] ,,xxvii4 ,hair ,cosmetics #bhj ,,*apt] ,,xxviii4 ,hair ,dyes & ,depilatories #bhe ,,*apt] ,,xxix4 ,wax ,pomades1 ,b&ol9es1 & ,brillant9es #bid ,,*apt] ,,xxx4 ,! ,colors ,us$ 9 ,p]fum]y #big ,,*apt] ,,xxxi4 ,! ,ut5sils ,us$ 9 ! ,toilet #cja ,,p]fumes ,,& ,,_! ,,prep>ation4 ,,*apt] ,i4 ,,! ,,hi/ory ,,( ,,p]fum]y4 ,! gratification ( 8 s5ses is peculi> to man1 & x is to ?is trait t we are indebt$ = all ! arts4 ,! activities :i* aim$ at ! gratification ( ! eye & e> develop$ into ! creative arts & music1 & 9 l mann] human endeavor direct$ t[>d ! /imulation ( ! s5se ( smell has 9 our "t assum$ ! proportions bo? ( an art & a sci5ce2 = x 0 no?+ b ! advancem5t ( *emi/ry t made x possible to fix all ! pleasant odors (f]$ by nature & to create new p]fumes by ! arti/ic comb9ation ( ^! sc5ts4 ,! prep>ation ( p]fumes is a v anci5t art t is met ) among all peoples possess$ ( any degree ( civilization4 ,x is p>ticul>ly ! anci5t nations ( ! ,ori5t :i* _h 9 tru? become ma/]s 9 ! manufacture ( num]\s p]fumes4 ,! fir/ p]fume 0 ! fragrant fl[]2 x has cont9u$ to be s to ! pres5t day3 ! sprig ( dri$ lav5d] fl[]s :i* we lay 9 ! clo!s-press 0 probably us$ = ! same purpose by ! contempor>ies ( ,ari/otle4 ,9 ! ,ori5t1 :i* we may look ^u z ! cradle ( ! art ( p]fum]y1 ! idea sugge/$ itself e>ly to sub/itute = ! delici\s fragrance ( ! fl[]s "s sub/ances ( la/+ odor2 v>i\s sweet-sc5t$ res9s suppli$ ! mat]ial = ?is purpose4 ,! use ( ^! aromatic res9s mu/ h be5 v ext5sive3 ! anci5t ,egyptians alone consum$ extraord9>y quantities = embalm+ _! dead4 ,h[ highly ! ,ori5tal peoples 9 g5]al priz$ p]fumes c be le>n$ f ! ,bible3 ! ,jews 7l ! ,ca?olics to ! pres5t day7 employ$ an aromatic gum-res9 7olibanum1 frank9c5se7 9 _! religi\s c]emonies2 9 ! ,song ( ,solomon m5tion is made ( ,indian p]fumes1 = in/ance1 c9namon1 spik5>d1 myrrh1 & aloes4 ,altoge!r1 inc5se play$ a prom95t "p 9 ! religi\s c]emonies ( ! anci5t ,we/]n ,asiatic nations--among _m peoples "u a !ocratic gov]nm5t x 0 ev5 believ$ to be s9ful to use inc5se = o!r ?an religi\s purposes4 ,! ,bible tea*es u t ,ezekiel & ,isaiah prote/$ aga9/ x1 & t ,moses ev5 prescrib$ ! prep>ation ( c]ta9 k9ds ( inc5se = use 9 ! tab]nacle4 ,among ! mo/ highly civiliz$ p ( antiquity1 ! ,greeks1 a l>ge numb] ( fragrant sub/ances1 z well z oils p]fum$ ) !m--t is to say1 p]fumes 9 ! same s5se z we /ill und]/& ! t]m--0 kn[n2 ?is w be no surprise to ^? famili> ) ! culture ( ?is rem>kable p4 ,! odor ( violets 0 ! favorite among ! ,greeks2 besides ?is !y us$ ! sc5t ( ! diff]5t m9ts1 ?yme1 m>joram1 & o!r aromatic plants4 ,?is 0 c>ri$ s f> z to become a matt] ( fa%ion = ! ,greek fop to use only c]ta9 odors 9 ! =m ( o9tm5ts = ! hair1 o!rs = ! neck1 etc4 ,9 ord] to prev5t ?is luxury :i* 0 c>ri$ to su* an excess1 ,solon ev5 promulgat$ a law t int]dict$ ! sale ( fragrant oils to ,a!nian m5 7! law did n apply to ! wom574 ,! ,romans1 :o 7 ! pupils ( ! ,greeks 9 all ! arts1 c>ri$ ! luxury ) p]fumes p]haps ev5 f>!r4 ,9 anci5t ,rome !re 0 a v num]\s guild ( p]fum]s call$ ungu5t>ii2 !y are said to h _h a /reet to !mselves 9 ,capua4 ,a ,patrician ,roman ano9t$ himself ?ree times daily ) preci\s1 sweet-sc5t$ oils :i* he p]sonally took along into 8 ba? 9 gold5 vessels ( exquisite workman%ip1 s-call$ n>!ci4 ,at ! fun]al ( 8 wife ,poppa1 ,n]o is said to h us$ z inc5se m odor\s sub/ances ?an c\ld be produc$ 9 "o ye> 9 ,arabia1 at t "t ! only reput$ s\rce ( p]fumes4 ,?is luxury w5t s f> t dur+ ! games 9 ! op5 amphi!atres ! :ole air 0 fill$ ) sweet odors asc5d+ f num]\s c5s]s arrang$ 9 a circle4 ,! ap>tm5ts ( well-to-d ,romans always conta9$ l>ge & v valuable urns fill$ ) dri$ blossoms1 to keep ! air p]man5tly p]fum$4 ,roman extravagance ) p]fumes 0 c>ri$ to su* an excess t "u ! consulate ( ,lic9ius ,crassus a law 0 pass$ :i* re/rict$ ! use ( p]fum]y1 !re be+ good reason to fe> t !re w\ld n be en\gh = ! c]emonies 9 ! temples4 ,) ! migration ( ! almo/ savage ,huns & ,go?s1 ! ref9em5t ( morals ceas$1 progress 9 civilization 0 ret>d$ = c5turies1 & at ! same "t ! use ( p]fumes disappe>$ entirely 9 ,europe2 b x 0 o!rwise 9 ! ,ori5t4 ,z an in/ance we may m5tion ! prophecy ( ,mohamm$1 :o promis$ 9 ! ,koran to ! fai?ful 9 p>adise ! possession ( black-ey$ h\ries ^: bodies 7 compos$ ( ! pure/ musk4 ,! ,arabs1 ! anci5t ma/]s ( *emi/ry1 7 also ! fir/ f\nd]s ( ! art ( p]fum]y4 ,?us ! ,arabian physician ,avic5na1 9 ! t5? c5tury1 taught ! art ( prep>+ fragrant wat]s f leaves1 & ,sultan ,salad91 9 #aaeg1 on 8 triumphal entry1 _h ! walls ( ! mosque ( ,om> wa%$ ) rose wat]4 ,x 0 ! int]c\rse ) ! ,ori5t br\ght ab\t by ! ,crusades t made ,europeans aga9 m famili> ) ! art ( p]fum]y1 & a numb] ( new odors rapidly became kn[n4 ,italy & ,france1 9 ^? times ! repres5tatives ( culture1 7 ! c\ntries 9 :i* ! prep>ation ( p]fumes 0 c>ri$ on on a l>ge scale4 ,?us1 = in/ance1 we f9d ! "n ( a ,roman family pres]v$ to ! pres5t day because "o ( its memb]s _h comb9$ a sweet-sc5t$ p[d]1 call$ ,frangipanni aft] its inv5tor1 :i* is /ill 9 favor1 & because 8 gr&son ,mauritius ,frangipanni _h made ! important discov]y t by treat+ ?is p[d] ) _s ( w9e ! fragrant sub/ance c\ld be obta9$ 9 a fluid =m4 ,! fact has be5 frequ5tly relat$ & repeat$1 t ,ca!r9e de ,m$ici1 ! wife ( ,h5ry ,,ii41 _h made use ( ! fa%ion ( p]fum+ ! body = ! purpose ( ridd+ h]self ( objectionable p]sons1 by giv+ !m sc5t$ gloves prep>$ & at ! same "t poison$ by a ,flor5t9e nam$ ,r5 7,r5ato874 ,we ?9k ?is tale to be simply a hair-rais+ fable--mod]n *emi/ry kn[s no sub/ance ! m]e t\* ( :i* c\ld produce ! effect ( a fatal poison2 & x is sc>cely cr$ible t su* a mat]ial _h be5 kn[n at t "t & lo/ sight ( s9ce4 ,9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 especially at ! c\rt ( ,que5 ,elizabe?1 p]fumes 7 us$ ) great extravagance2 9 fact1 7 look$ ^u z "o ( ! necess>ies ( life4 ,?is luxury 0 c>ri$ /ill f>!r at ! c\rts ( ! sumptu\s k+s ( ,france2 ,l\is ,,xv4 w5t s f> z to dem& e day a diff]5t odor = 8 ap>tm5ts4 ,a lady's lov] always us$ ! same k9d ( p]fume %e did4 ,x is well kn[n t among ! ,ori5tal nations p]fumes are us$ s l>gely t ev5 food is flavor$ ) rose wat]1 musk1 etc42 & ,indian & ,*9ese goods always possess a peculi> aroma :i* is s *>act]i/ic = c]ta9 products t x 0 consid]$ to be a sign ( g5u95ess2 ?is 0 ! case1 = in/ance1 ) ! pat*\ly odor :i* always adh]es to ,indian %awls4 ,a %awl-mak] ( ,lyons1 :o _h succe$$ 9 p]fectly imitat+ ,indian %awls ) ref]5ce to design & colors1 sp5t a fabul\s sum to obta9 possession ( ! plant us$ by ! ,indian weav]s = p]fum+ _! w>es4 ,despite ! great outlay caus$ by ! se>* = ?is plant1 ! manufactur] is said to h done a fl\ri%+ bus9ess ) 8 8g5u9e0 ,indian %awls4 ,9 m rec5t times ! great ext5sion ( trade to ! f>!/ c\ntries ( ! globe1 & /ill m ! progress ( *emi/ry1 h made u famili> ) a numb] ( new p]fumes4 ,m ?an two hundr$ diff]5t aromatic sub/ances are n[ kn[n1 & /ill !y are f> f be+ exhau/$2 e ye> new odorif]\s plants become kn[n1 f :i* ! *emi/ extracts p]fumes4 ,by ?is means1 z well z by ! enorm\s employm5t ( p]fumes 9 all grades ( society1 ! art ( _! prep>ation has ris5 to a high] plane2 out ( empiricism1 :i* alone prevail$ a few decades ago1 into ! doma9 ( ! *emical sci5ces4 ,s9ce ! appe>ance ( ! la/ edition ( ?is book1 ! art ( p]fum]y has made notewor?y progress bo? ) ref]5ce to ! k ( new aromatic sub/ances & to improvem5t 9 ! me?ods ( _! prep>ation2 by ! introduction ( glyc]91 solid & liquid vasel91 & salicylic acid into p]fum]y1 "o ( its bran*es--hygi5ic cosmetics--has made an important advance4 ,at pres5t x is p>ticul>ly ,france & ,engl& ^: p]fum]y indu/ry is mo/ ext5sive & :i* to "s ext5t rule ! m>kets ( ! _w2 s\!rn ,france & ,algi]s especially furni% ! be/ raw mat]ials1 ! f9e/ ess5tial oils = ! manufacture ( p]fumes at ! *ief c5tres1 ,p>is & ,london4 ,,*apt] ,,ii4 ,,ab\t ,,aromatic ,,sub/ances ,,9 ,,g5]al4 ,we apply ! t]m p]fume--:i* really means a fumigat+ mat]ial--to ^? sub/ances :i* make an agreeable impression ^u our s5se ( smell2 ! ,fr5* call !m briefly odeurs1 i4e41 odors4 ,! high degree ( developm5t at pres5t atta9$ by ?is indu/ry 9 ,france & ,engl& is ! cause ( ! fact t all p]fumes are g5]ally sold "u ,fr5* or ,engli% names1 :i* mu/ be borne 9 m9d by manufactur]s 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,p]fumes or sc5ts1 h[ev]1 ex]t n only an agreeable impression on ! olfactory organ1 b _! effect ext5ds to ! entire n]v\s sy/em1 :i* !y /imulate2 :5 us$ 9 excess1 !y are apt to cause heada*e 9 s5sitive p]sons2 ! labor]s 9 ! *emical factories :]e ^! sub/ances are produc$ on a l>ge scale1 occasionally ev5 suff] by reason ( _! /imulat+ action on ! n]ves4 ,= ?is reason p]fumes %\ld nev] be employ$ o!rwise ?an 9 a v dilute condition2 ?is necessity arises f a peculi>ity ( ! odor\s sub/ances :i* :5 conc5trat$ & pure h by no means a pleasant smell & become fragrant only :5 highly dilut$4 ,oil ( roses1 ( orange fl[]s1 or ( jasm9e1 9 fact ne>ly all aromatic sub/ances1 h an almo/ disagreeable odor :5 conc5trat$2 only 9 an extremely dilute /ate !y yield ^? delightful sc5ts :i* we admire s mu* 9 ! blossoms f :i* !y are d]iv$4 ,x w be easi] to und]/& ! almo/ incr$ible productiv5ess ( p]fumes if we cite z an in/ance t a few c5tigrams ( musk plac$ on a s5sitive scale c = ye>s fill a l>ge hall ) _! *>act]i/ic odor )\t %[+ an appreciable loss ( weight1 & /ill p>ticles mu/ sep>ate f ! musk & become ev5ly diffus$ ?r\gh ! air ( ! hall because ! odor is p]ceptible ?r\gh\t e "p ( x4 ,x w\ld be an error1 h[ev]1 7 we to assume t all aromatic sub/ances possess ! same degree ( productiv5ess2 "s ( !m1 z = in/ance ! odor\s pr9ciple ( orris root1 h a comp>atively fa9t smell--a fact :i* mu/ be borne 9 m9d 9 ! comb9ation ( p]fumes4 ,ev5 odors hav+ a v simil> effect on ! olfactory n]ves diff] widely 9 _! int5sity2 = in/ance1 true oil 7att>7 ( roses possesses an int5sity m ?an twice z great z t ( ! rose g]anium2 _m au?orities agree 9 giv+ ! proportion z ?ree to eight1 ! fir/ figure be+ t ( rose oil1 ! second t ( oil ( rose g]anium4 ,!re=e1 9 ord] to produce p]fumes ( equal int5sity 7hav+ ! same effect on ! olfactory n]ves71 we mu/ dissolve 9 an equal quantity ( ! m5/ruum ei!r ?ree p>ts by weight ( ! att> ( roses or eight p>ts ( ! oil ( rose g]anium4 ,9 ! prescriptions = ! prep>ation ( p]fumes giv5 9 ?is book1 ^! proportions h be5 c>efully weigh$2 b x w be ! (fice ( ! tra9$ olfactory s5se ( ! manufactur] to modify !m = ! v>i\s k9ds ( p]fum]y 9 su* a way z to produce a truly h>moni\s pleasant odor4 ,al?\gh we "k _m aromatic sub/ances1 we are /ill 9 ignorance z to ! prep>ation ( c]ta9 decid$ly agreeable odors4 ,?us no "o at pres5t is able to produce ! refre%+ odor ( ! sea borne along on ! w9d1 any m ?an we are able to reproduce ! sc5t exhal$ by ! =e/1 especially aft] a w>m ra92 *emi/ry1 ?\gh x has done mu* 9 ! doma9 ( p]fum]y1 has ?us f> ?r[n no light ^u x4 ,ev5 c]ta9 vegetable odors--= in/ance1 ! delightful p]fume exhal$ by "s ,aroide & ,primulace--we _c z yet pres]ve un*ang$ 9 p]fum]y4 ,?is op5s an illimitable field = future activity to ! progressive manufactur]4 ,9 a book devot$ to ! production ( p]fumes x w\ld c]ta9ly be 9 place to say some?+ ab\t ! physiological relations ( ! olfactory s5sations2 b un=tunately ?is int]e/+ "p ( physiology is /ill envelop$ 9 great obscurity4 ,all we "k positively on ?is subject is t _m p>ticles ( ! odor\s bodies evaporate & mu/ come 9 contact ) ! olfactory n]ves 9 ord] to produce ! s5sation ( odor4 ,!re is no lack ( exp]im5ts seek+ to draw a p>allel betwe5 s5sations ( smell & ^? ( he>+1 &1 z is well kn[n1 we speak ( a h>mony & dissonance ( odors z we d ( tones4 ,piesse1 ! r5[n$ p]fum]1 has ev5 made an attempt to arrange ! diff]5t odors 9 a 8h>monic scale0 hav+ ! compass ( ! piano1 & to d$uce !refrom a law = ! mixture ( ! sev]al aromatic sub/ances4 ,?is attempt1 al?\gh v +5i\s1 /ill lacks a sci5tific f\ndation4 ,piesse endeavors to comb9e ! sev]al sc5ts l tones to produce *ords 9 diff]5t scales2 ! *ords ( odors are to agree ) ^? ( tones4 ,?us f>1 h[ev]1 no pro( has be5 furni%$ t ! olfactory n]ve & ! ac\/ic n]ve h ! same organization1 & "u ?is supposition alone c\ld ,piesse's sy/em be accept$ z correct4 ,,! ,,division ,,( ,,aromatic ,,sub/ances ,,accord+ ,,to ,,_! ,,orig94 ,! majority ( ! sub/ances us$ 9 p]fum]y are d]iv$ f ! vegetable k+dom1 b "s come f ! animal k+dom1 & = o!rs :i* d n occur complete 9 nature we are indebt$ to *emi/ry4 ,z is well kn[n1 mo/ blossoms possess a decid$ odor1 :i* is extremely fragrant 9 "s2 yet x is n ! blossoms alone1 b 9 diff]5t g5]a v>i\s p>ts are di/+ui%$ by agreeable odors4 ,9 "s plants ! fragrant sub/ances are conta9$ 9 e "p1 z 9 diff]5t p9es & ! m9ts2 9 o!rs1 only 9 ! fruits 7nutmeg1 vanilla71 :ile ! o!r p>ts are odorless2 9 c]ta9 plants only ! r9ds ( ! fruits conta9 an aromatic sub/ance 7oranges1 lemons74 ,9 ! ,flor5t9e ,iris ! entire plant is odorless--only its root /ock possesses an agreeable1 violet-l sc5t2 :ile1 = in/ance1 9 ! camphor-tree an aromatic sub/ance exi/s 9 ! wood1 9 ! c9namon laurel 9 ! b>k1 9 ! clove-tree ma9ly 9 ! clos$ buds4 ,b tak+ ! aromatic plants all toge!r1 we f9d t x is p>ticul>ly _! fl[]s :i* conta9 ! f9e/ odors1 & t ! majority ( p]fumes are prep>$ f _! blossoms4 ,f ! animal k+dom we take = ! purposes ( p]fum]y only a v small numb] ( sub/ances1 among :i*1 moreov]1 "s peculi> relation exi/s2 :ile1 = in/ance1 all m5 w\ld call ! odor ( violets1 roses1 vanilla1 etc41 agreeable1 ! odor ( "s animal sub/ances is decid$ly obnoxi\s to _m p]sons1 ?\gh o!rs l x--an obs]vation :i* c be v]ifi$ (t5 ) ref]5ce to musk4 ,) ! advancem5t ( sci5ce1 *emical products f9d application 9 ev] increas+ numb]s2 among !m are sub/ances :i* owe _! orig9 directly to ! vegetable k+dom1 :ile o!rs1 su* z nitrob5zol & p9e-apple e!r1 are only indirectly d]iv$ f x4 ,f :at has be5 /at$1 we le>n t our att5tion mu/ be direct$ p>ticul>ly to ^? sc5ts :i* are d]iv$ f ! vegetable k+dom4 ,to ! manufactur] ( p]fum]y1 h[ev]1 x is a matt] ( importance :5ce ! plants are obta9$ :i* he uses = ! prep>ation ( ! odors2 a v slight *ange 9 ! soil (t5 makes a great diff]5ce 9 ! quality ( "o & ! same species2 we see ?is q cle>ly 9 our ord9>y /rawb]ry4 ,:ile ! wild fruit is b small 9 size x has a delightful aromatic flavor1 & ! same species transplant$ into g>d5s atta9s mu* great] size b possesses only a fa9t aroma n to be comp>$ ) t ( ! wild v>iety4 ,! ,lomb>dian violet is l>ge & beautiful1 b ! ,g]man has a mu* m pleasant odor4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ! blossoms ( ! orange-tree obta9$ f ! plants cultivat$ 9 pots _c be comp>$ ) ref]5ce to _! odor ) ^! gr[+ 9 ! ,rivi]a1 ! /rip ( coa/ l& ( ! ,m$it]ranean f ,m>seilles to ,g5oa4 ,altoge!r ! la/-nam$ region & ! s\? ( ,france may be call$ ! true g>d5 ( ! p]fum]2 9 ! neighborhood ( ,grasse1 ,cannes1 ,nice1 ,monaco1 & "s o!r t[ns1 ext5sive plots ( gr\nd are set ) aromatic plants su* z orange-trees1 ,acacia f>nesiana1 jasm9e1 violets1 etc41 ^: products are elaborat$ 9 l>ge1 well-appo9t$ *emical factories solely devot$ to ! extraction ( _! odors4 ,! proximity ( ! sea-coa/1 ) its favorable climate almo/ free f fro/1 p]mits ! cultivation ( s\!rn plants1 :ile 9 ! m elevat$ p>ts ( ! c\ntry ! adjo9+ ,m>itime ,alps cause a m *angeable climate :i* adapts !m to c]ta9 o!r sweet-sc5t$ plants4 ,! great value ( ! annual production ( ! ,fr5* fl[] f>ms at ,cannes1 ,grasse1 & ,nice w be evid5t f ! foll[+ figures4 ,! h>ve/+ & elaboration ( ! fl[]s at ! po9ts nam$ give employm5t to fifte5 ?\s& p]sons1 & ! av]age annual production is3 ,orange fl[]s1 #b1jjj1jjj kgm41 valu$ at #b1jjj1jjj francs4 ,roses1 #ejj1jjj #ejj1jjj ,jasm9e1 #hj1jjj #bjj1jjj ,violets1 #hj1jjj #djj1jjj ,acacia fl[]s1 #dj1jjj #afj1jjj ,tub]oses1 #bj1jjj #hj1jjj -------------- -------------- #b1gbj1jjj kgm41 valu$ at #c1cdj1jjj francs4 ,f ^! fl[]s 7 manufactur$3 #ejj1jjj kgm4 ( pomades & ess5ces1 #a1jjj1jjj litres ( orange-fl[] wat]1 #ajj1jjj litres ( rose wat]1 & #a1bjj kgm4 ( oil ( roses4 ,besides1 9 m nor!rn c\ntries we f9d "h & !re q an ext5sive cultivation ( aromatic plants2 ?is is ! case1 = in/ance1 9 ,engl&1 :]e lav5d]1 crisp m9t1 & pepp]m9t are plant$ on a l>ge scale solely = _! p]fume4 ,9 nor!rn ,g]many1 too1 we sometimes f9d c>away & sweet flag cultivat$1 = _! peculi> odors only1 9 special fields4 ,z /at$ above1 ! place ( gr[? ( a plant ex]ts a p[]ful influ5ce on ! quality ( ! odors develop$ 9 x2 ?is circum/ance may be ! reason :y c]ta9 sc5ts are priz$ mo/ highly :5 !y are d]iv$ f "s def9ite regions1 because ! buy] is sure t ! product f su* places is ( sup]ior excell5ce4 ,?us we f9d t ,engli% oils ( lav5d] & pepp]m9t are valu$ m highly & br+ bett] prices ?an ^? f o!r po9ts ( production2 "s places ev5 h1 z x 71 acquir$ a monopoly ( c]ta9 odors4 ,:ile ! factories at ,cannes produce ! mo/ p]fect odors ( roses1 orange fl[]s1 jasm9e1 & cassie1 ^? at ,nice are fam\s = ! f9e/ odors ( violet1 res$a 7mignonette71 & tub]ose1 & ^? ( ,italy = ! odors ( b]gamot & orris root4 ,un=tunately !re are 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates no ext5sive places ( cultivation = odorif]\s plants1 al?\gh c]ta9 localities are v well adapt$ to ! gr[? ( violets1 mignonette1 roses1 syr+a1 lav5d]1 etc4 ,pepp]m9t1 h[ev]1 is gr[n on a l>ge scale 9 "s p>ts ( ,new ,york ,/ate & 9 ,mi*igan4 ,( c\rse su* an ent]prise1 9 ord] to be pr(itable1 requires ! intellig5t co-op]ation ( plant]s & duly qualifi$ *emi/s1 besides well-furni%$ laboratories & a consid]able am\nt ( capital2 b "u ^! conditions ! prospects ( ga9 are good4 ,at pres5t ! manufactur]s ( p]fum]y are almo/ entirely dep5d5t ^u ,engli% & ,fr5* factories = _! supply ( odors4 ,ow+ to ! abs5ce ( competition1 ! prices = ! products1 excell5t ?\gh !y are1 are high1 & become /ill m s :5 ! crops are %ort4 ,^! conditions w\ld be mat]ially alt]$ "u active competition4 ,z indicat$ above1 ! odors us$ 9 p]fum]y may be divid$ into ?ree di/9ct gr\ps accord+ to _! orig94 ,^! gr\ps are3 #a4 ,odors ( vegetable orig94 #b4 ,odors ( animal orig94 #c4 ,odors ( artificial orig9--*emical products4 ,be=e describ+ ! prep>ation ( true p]fumes1 x is necess>y to become acqua9t$ ) ! sev]al raw mat]ials requir$ 9 _! manufacture2 t is to say1 ! simple odor\s sub/ances1 _! orig91 _! prep>ation1 & _! peculi> qualities4 ,besides ^! odor\s raw mat]ials1 ! art ( p]fum]y makes use ( a numb] ( *emical & m9]al products1 ^: quality l>gely influ5ces t ( ! p]fume to be made4 ,^!1 !re=e1 likewise call = an appropriate description4 ,among ^! auxili>y sub/ances are alcohol1 glyc]91 fix$ oils1 & solid fats1 :i* play an important "p n only 9 ! prep>ation ( ! p]fumes1 b also ent] into ! composition ( _m4 ,! liquid h&k]*ief p]fumes always conta9 a l>ge quantity ( alcohol1 ! sc5t$ hair oils consi/ l>gely ( fix$ oils1 :ile solid fats ( animal or vegetable orig9 occur 9 ! s-call$ pomades4 ,z we %all see1 ! actual odors1 ow+ to _! extraord9>y productiv5ess1 con/itute g5]ally only a small p]c5tage ( ! p]fumes2 ! greate/ bulk is usually ei!r alcohol1 fix$ oil1 or solid fat4 ,h5ce1 z ! la/-nam$ sub/ances1 aside f ! odorif]\s mat]ials1 =m ! f\ndation ( all articles ( p]fum]y1 ! manufactur] mu/ devote p>ticul> att5tion to _! purity1 & _! qualities mu/ be discuss$ 9 detail4 ,,*apt] ,,iii4 ,,odors ,,f ,,! ,,vegetable ,,k+dom4 ,! odors occurr+ 9 plants h _! seat mo/ly 9 peculi> receptacles call$ oil gl&s 9 :i* ! aromatic sub/ances are /or$ & seem to take no fur!r "p 9 ! vital processes ( ! plant4 ,z has be5 intimat$1 ! p>ts ( ! plant 9 :i* ! aromatic sub/ances are /or$ diff] greatly2 b 9 g5]al x may be said t 9 mo/ cases ! fl[]s & fruits conta9 ! odors2 m r>ely !y may be f\nd 9 ! roots1 9 ! b>k1 or 9 ! wood1 & 9 v few in/ances equally di/ribut$ ?r\gh\t ! :ole plant4 ,9 "s cases1 h[ev]1 we c obta9 totally diff]5t odors f v>i\s p>ts ( ! same plant2 ?is applies1 = in/ance1 to ! orange-tree1 ^: blossoms furni% a diff]5t odor f ! ripe fruits1 & ! latt] mu/ be di/+ui%$ f t obta9able f ! leaves4 ,! odor\s sub/ances occurr+ 9 ! vegetable k+dom are ei!r mobile liquids 7ess5tial oils71 or !y h a ?ick] consi/5ce rang+ f t ( cream to t ( s(t *eese 7balsams or gum-res9s71 or !y are solid 7res9s74 ,aside f ! fact t ! t]m 8ess5tial oils0 is q incorrect1 s9ce ! sub/ances call$ by t "n h no?+ 9 common ) oils except p]haps ! liquid /ate1 we are =c$ f a *emical /&po9t to include among !m ev5 solid sub/ances2 ! well-kn[n camphor1 a firm & waxy-look+ body1 belongs accord+ to all its *emical prop]ties into ! same gr\p z ! s-call$ ess5tial oils4 ,! "n 8ess5tial 7or volatile7 oils0 is due to ! fact t ! volatile vegetable aromatic sub/ances cause a /a9 on pap] simil> to t produc$ by oils & fats2 b ! /a9 made by ! =m] disappe>s spontane\sly aft] "s "t1 :ile t due to true oils & fats p]si/s4 ,! disappe>ance ( ! /a9 dep5ds on ! evaporation ( ! vegetable aromatic sub/ances--a quality n possess$ by fats4 ,h5ce ! volatile vegetable aromatic sub/ances1 9 contradi/9ction f non-volatile fix$ or fatty oils1 h be5 designat$ z ess5tial or volatile or e!real oils4 ,inasmu* z ! latt] t]ms are ! ord9>y trade names = ^! sub/ances1 we are compell$ to reta9 !m despite _! incorrectness4 ,! ,fr5* "n = ess5tial oils is ess5ces2 8ess5ce de lav&e10 = in/ance1 is ! ,fr5* "n = ess5tial oil ( lav5d]1 & n = an alcoholic solution ( ! oil1 z might be inf]r$ f ! usually accept$ mean+ ( ! ,engli% t]ms 8ess5ce ( lav5d]10 8ess5ce ( pepp]m9t10 etc41 :i* mean solutions ( ^! ess5tial oils 9 alcohol4 ,z ! localities :]e ! raw mat]ials--t is1 ! aromatic plants--are cultivat$ on a l>ge scale naturally con/itute ! places ( manufacture ( ess5tial oils1 we f9d 9 s\!rn ,france & 9 ,engl& ! mo/ ext5sive factories devot$ exclusively to ! prep>ation ( p]fumes4 ,9 ! c\ntries nam$1 a favorable influ5ce is ex]t$1 too1 by _! situation ne> ! sea1 z well z by _! trade ) tropical l&s f :i* additional aromatic plants are import$4 ,we h /at$ above t ! manufacture ( ess5tial oils =ms almo/ a monopoly 9 ,france & ,engl&2 b !re is no d\bt t ?is c\ntry 7! ,unit$ ,/ates7 likewise possesses _m localities favorable to ! cultivation ( c]ta9 aromatic plants & ! prep>ation ( ess5tial oils f !m1 s t ?is bran* ( indu/ry c\ld be c>ri$ on at a pr(it4 ,= ?is reason we h 9 our descriptions devot$ "s att5tion to ! conditions ( gr[? requir$ by su* plants z might be rais$ "h4 ,we ev5 f9d t "s advantages are d]iv$ f ! hot-h\se cultivation ( "s tropical plants4 ,an exact k ( ! *emical prop]ties ( a sub/ance is 9 all cases ! fir/ & fundam5tal condition = its prep>ation2 x w\ld appe> necess>y1 !re=e1 t we %\ld endeavor to ga9 complete in=mation ab\t ! nature ( vegetable aromatic sub/ances be=e we ent] ^u ! description ( ! v>i\s me?ods ( _! prep>ation4 ,,! ,,*emical ,,con/itution ,,( ,,vegetable ,,aromatic ,,sub/ances4 ,! s\rces ( ! odors d]iv$ f ! vegetable k+dom c be divid$1 z /at$ above1 into s-call$ ess5tial oils1 balsams1 gum-res9s or s(t res9s1 & h>d res9s4 ,s9ce ! latt] be> a c]ta9 relation to ! ess5tial oils f :i* !y are =m$ ?r\gh *emical comb9ations1 we mu/ consid] !m fir/4 ,! fl[]s1 ! fruits & _! r9ds1 or ev5 ! wood ( "s plants =m ! receptacles ( ess5tial oils2 if !y are liquid !y are call$ ess5tial oils p> excell5ce2 if !y are firm !y are call$ camphors4 ,besides1 !re are int]m$iate /ates betwe5 !m3 oil ( rose is always viscid & solidifies ev5 at temp]atures consid]ably above ! freez+-po9t ( wat] 7see "u ,oil ( ,rose74 ,! bodies :i* are g5]ally call$ ess5tial oils are usually mixtures ( a hydroc>bon ) an oxyg5at$ body1 or an un*ang$ oil ) ano!r :i* has become alt]$ by ! influ5ce ( ! oxyg5 ( ! air--a condition to :i* we %all recur lat] on4 ,) ref]5ce to _! elem5t>y composition1 ess5tial oils may be divid$ into two gr\ps3 #a4 ,non-oxyg5at$ ess5tial oils4 #b4 ,oxyg5at$ ess5tial oils4 ,! non-oxg5at$ ess5tial oils consi/ only ( two elem5ts--c>bon & hydrog52 ! o!r gr\p1 z ! "n indicates1 conta9s a ?ird elem5t 9 *emical comb9ation1 & consi/ ( c>bon1 hydrog51 & oxyg54 ,mo/ ( ! ess5tial oils ( ! fir/ gr\p h ! same *emical composition3 ,c#aj;,h#af 7#aj atoms ( c>bon comb9$ ) #af atoms ( hydrog574 ,despite ! l *emical composition1 all ! ess5tial oils display diff]5t physical qualities2 !y v>y 9 d5sity1 9 refractive p[]1 9 boil+-po9t 7(t5 by _m degrees71 &1 a matt] ( ! greate/ importance = our purposes1 9 _! odor4 ,we may /ate at once t b few ess5tial oils c be said to h a pleasant odor2 t ( mo/ ( !m is ev5 disagreeable & n>cotic to ! olfactory n]ves2 x is only aft] ! oil has be5 extremely dilut$ t ! odor beg9s to become pleasant & to resemble t ( ! plant f :i* ! oil 0 d]iv$4 ,accord+ to _! physical qualities1 ess5tial oils may be describ$ z fluids ( a specific n>cotic odor1 colorless b v refractive1 & easily inflammable4 ,only a few ess5tial oils c be produc$ 9 su* a /ate ( purity z to appe> p]fectly colorless2 usually !y are m or less d>k yell[ 9 color1 & "s ev5 possess a *>act]i/ic t9t2 ?us oil ( acacia is r$di%-br[n1 oils ( rose & abs9? are gre51 oil ( *amomile is blue4 ,b a simple exp]im5t w %[ t ! color is n insep>ably connect$ ) ! oil1 = c]ta9 t9t$ oils c be obta9$ p]fectly colorless by be+ di/ill$ ) ano!r1 less volatile oil :i* reta9s ! color+ matt]4 ,! boil+-po9t ( ess5tial oils is 9 g5]al v high --betwe5 #afj & #bhh ( ! c5tigrade !rmomet] 7,c471 or #cbj to #eej ,f4 ,! fact t we smell ! ess5tial oils 9 aromatic plants s di/9ctly despite _! high boil+-po9t is an evid5ce ( _! exce$+ly /rong influ5ce on ! olfactory n]ves4 ,a peculi> prop]ty ( ess5tial oils1 :i* is ( great importance 9 _! prep>ation1 is t ( di/ill+ ov] 9 l>ge quantities ) /eam--bo? ord9>y & sup]heat$--t is1 at temp]atures at mo/ only slightly exce$+ #ajj ,c4 or #bab ,f4 ,= ?is reason ess5tial oils are usually obta9$ 9 ?is way1 s9ce !y are b slightly soluble 9 wat]4 ,/ill1 mo/ ( ! oils dissolve 9 wat] 9 suffici5t am\nt to imp>t to x _! *>act]i/ic odor & ?us to r5d] x (t5 v fragrant4 ,aqua ,naph triplex 7orange-fl[] wat]71 rose wat]1 etc41 are su* z h be5 di/ill$ ov] ) ! ess5tial oils1 conta9 a small quantity ( ! latt] 9 solution1 & h5ce h a v agreeable odor4 ,all ess5tial oils dissolve readily 9 /rong alcohol1 petroleum e!r1 b5zol1 bisulphide ( c>bon1 9 liquid & solid fats1 9 glyc]91 etc42 we %all aga9 recur to ?is important subject "u ! head ( ! prep>ation ( ! ess5tial oils4 ,if a fre%ly prep>$ ess5tial oil is at once exclud$ f ! air by be+ plac$ 9 h]metically seal$ vessels :i* x completely fills1 & is kept f ! light1 ! oil w rema9 un*ang$ = any l5g? ( "t4 ,b if an ess5tial oil is expos$ to ! air1 a peculi>1 *emical alt]ation beg9s1 :i* proce$s m rapidly & obvi\sly if direct light acts ^u ! oil at ! same "t4 ,! odor becomes less int5se1 ! oil gr[s d>k] 9 color & m visc\s1 & also acquires a peculi> quality3 x has a /rong blea*+ effect :i* is easily se5 on ! cork clos+ ! bottle1 :i* is beautifully blea*$4 ,aft] a c]ta9 "t ! oil *anges to a viscid1 less odor\s mass1 into balsam1 & ! latt]1 aft] ! prolong$ influ5ce ( ! air1 f9ally *anges into a br[ni%1 odorless sub/ance1 into res94 ,^! rem>kable physical & *emical alt]ations dep5d on ! fact t ! ess5tial oil absorbs oxyg5 f ! air1 :i* x puts into a peculi> condition 9 :i* x ex]ts increas$ *emical activity & is t]m$ ozoniz$ oxyg54 ,"o ( ! mo/ m>k$ ( ^! effects is ! uncommonly /rong blea*+ p[] ( ozoniz$ or active oxyg54 ,:5 an ess5tial oil t has alt]$ s f> z to conta9 ozoniz$ oxyg5--:i* is %[n by its blea*+ vegetable color+ matt]s su* z ! juice ( *]ries1 r$ beets1 t9cture ( litmus1 etc41 agitat$ ) x--is cool$1 we notice ! sep>ation f x ( a usually cry/all9e1 colorless1 & odorless body call$ /e>opt51 :ile ! rema9+ liquid "p is call$ elopt54 ,/e>opt5 always conta9s oxyg51 :ile elopt5 /ill consi/s only ( c>bon & hydrog54 ,9 ! =mation ( ! /e>opt5 we di/9ctly see ! beg9n+ process ( res9ification1 :i*1 !re=e1 is no?+ b an oxidation 7comb9ation ( ! ess5tial oil ) oxyg574 ,x %\ld1 h[ev]1 be /at$ t z to _m ess5tial oils ?is is n prov5 by actual obs]vation4 ,_m ( !m are n kn[n to u z naturally exi/+ )\t any /e>opt54 ,balsams are ess5tial oils :i* h to a great ext5t *ang$ into res91 :i* !y conta9 9 solution1 & !reby h become m or less viscid4 ,if ! process ( oxidation goes /ill f>!r1 ev5tually ! great] portion ( ! ess5tial oil becomes oxidiz$1 ! entire mass gr[s firm1 & !n possesses only a v fa9t odor :i* is due to ! la/ remnants ( ! un*ang$ ess5tial oil4 ,s9ce aromatic sub/ances dur+ evaporation become mix$ ) air1 x appe>s probable t !y act ^u ! olfactory n]ves only at ! mom5t :5 !y become oxidiz$4 ,! entire process ( res9ification ( oil ( turp5t9e c be foll[$ v cle>ly on ! pit* p9e 7,p9us au/riaca1 or o!r species ( ,p9us71 j z oil ( turp5t9e 9 g5]al c be tak5 z an example ( an ess5tial oil on :i* ! peculi>ities ( ! non-oxyg5at$ ess5tial oils may be easily /udi$4 ,9 _m localities ! pit* p9e is p>tly depriv$ ( its b>k :5 x has rea*$ a c]ta9 age4 ,f ! trunk exudes oil ( turp5t9e :i* 9 ! air becomes m & m viscid by ! absorption ( oxyg5 & *anges into balsam1 call$ turp5t9e4 ,! latt] is collect$ & di/ill$ ) wat]1 :5 ! un*ang$ oil ( turp5t9e passes ov] ) ! /eam1 :ile ! odorless res9 7ros9 or colophony7 rema9s beh9d 9 ! /ills4 ,! above-m5tion$ qualities ( ! ess5tial oils indicate naturally h[ ^? us$ 9 p]fum]y1 :i* are (t5 v co/ly1 are to be pres]v$4 ,= ?is purpose small /rong bottles %\ld be *os5 :i* are clos$ ) well-fitt+ glass /opp]s1 ov] :i* is appli$ a glass capsule gr\nd to fit tightly ov] ! neck ( ! bottle4 ,^! bottles %\ld always be completely fill$ 7h5ce small bottles %\ld be select$71 & kept tightly clos$1 9 ! d>k4 ,z ! action ( oxyg5 is ret>d$ by l[ temp]atures1 x is advisable to keep bottles conta9+ ess5tial oils 9 a cool cell>4 ,b c>e mu/ be _h nev] to p\r out an ess5tial oil 9 ! cell> ne> an op5 c&le light4 ,! vapors are v apt to take fire1 z !y are q inflammable4 ,z !re are a great _m aromatic vegetable sub/ances1 s !re are num]\s odors1 or1 to reta9 ! cu/om>y ?\gh incorrect appellation1 num]\s ess5tial oils4 ,all ( ^!1 h[ev]1 _c be us$ 9 ! art ( p]fum]y1 z "s ( !m d n possess a pleasant odor1 z is ! case1 = in/ance1 ) oil ( turp5t9e4 7,we may /ate "h1 h[ev]1 t v pure oil ( turp5t9e1 di/ill$ f c]ta9 ,conif]1 has an agreeable1 refre%+ odor :i* at pres5t has f\nd application 9 p]fum]y "u ! title ( =e/ p]fume or p9e-ne$le ess5ce47 ,besides1 !re are num]\s ess5tial oils :i*1 :ile possess+ a v pleasant odor1 /ill _c be us$ 9 p]fum]y except = v *eap prep>ations1 ?\gh !y are employ$ 9 mu* l>g] quantities 9 ! manufacture ( liqueurs4 ,su* oils are3 oil ( cum91 f5nel1 junip]1 abs9?1 etc4 ,z we %all return to ?is subject 9 connection ) ! ess5tial oils :i* are us$ 9 p]fum]y 9 g5]al1 we w n[ consid] at great] l5g? ! aromatic vegetable sub/ances :i* are employ$ = ! manufacture ( fragrant odors4 ,,*apt] ,,iv4 ,,! ,,aromatic ,,vegetable ,,sub/ances ,,employ$ ,,9 ,,p]fum]y4 ,e fragrant portion ( a plant c be us$ = ! prep>ation ( an aromatic sub/ance1 & !re=e = ! manufacture ( a p]fume4 ,h5ce we are unable1 9 ! foll[+ enum]ation ( ! aromatic vegetable sub/ances1 to make any claim to absolute complet5ess2 = e new sci5tific exp$ition may acqua9t u ) hi!rto unkn[n plants f :i* ! f9e/ odors may be obta9$4 ,we h said above t we h n yet ev5 fix$ 9 our p]fumes all ! odors ( ! kn[n aromatic plants1 & !re=e !re is /ill a l>ge field op5 to ! progressive manufactur]4 ,9 ! foll[+ pages we mu/ re/rict ourselves to ! description ( ^? aromatic vegetable sub/ances :i* are us$ 9 ! laboratories ( ! mo/ advanc$ & sci5tific p]fum]s = ! manufacture ( odors4 ,at ! same "t we lay p>ticul> /ress on ! fact t ! k ( ^! raw mat]ials is a matt] ( ! greate/ importance to ! manufactur] ( p]fumes because x enables him to appreciate ! diff]5ces1 (t5 v m9ute1 betwe5 f9e & inf]ior qualities4 ,e manufactur] :o aims at ! production ( f9e goods mu/ make x ! rule to use no?+ b ! be/ raw mat]ials4 ,! price ( ! latt] is app>5tly disproportionately high2 = all t1 only ! mo/ exp5sive mat]ials %\ld be b\ght1 = x is ! only k9d t c be us$4 ,let u give b two in/ances 9 illu/ration4 ,we f9d 9 ! m>ket1 grades ( vanilla ! prices ( :i* are z "o to f\r2 ! latt] is fre% & conta9s ! aromatic sub/ance 9 l>ge am\nt2 ! =m] is old1 dry1 & wor?less1 ) an artificial glossy surface & little odor4 ,! diff]5ces 9 ! price are /ill great] 9 an aromatic sub/ance ( animal orig91 musk1 ! *eape/ grades ( :i* are altoge!r artificial & p]fum$ ) a m]e trace ( g5u9e musk4 ,( c\rse1 ! same rem>k applies to ! raw mat]ials ( animal orig9 & to ! *emical products1 all ( :i* %\ld be ( ! greate/ purity obta9able4 ,! aromatic sub/ances at pres5t employ$ 9 p]fum]y = ! extraction ( odors are ! foll[+4 ,,allspice4 ,lat9--,pim5ta2 ,fr5*--,pim5t2 ,g]man--,pim5t2 ,nelk5pfeff]4 ,?is spice consi/s ( ! fruit b]ries1 at fir/ gre51 lat] black1 ( ! ,eug5ia ,pim5ta1 indig5\s to ,c5tral ,am]ica & ! ,antilles4 ,x is *iefly us$ 9 ! manufacture ( liqueurs1 less 9 p]fum]y1 ?\gh x may be employ$ z an addition to c]ta9 /rong odors1 p>ticul>ly t ( oil ( bay2 x s]ves v nicely = sc5t+ *eap soap4 ,,anise4 ,lat9--,pimp9ella ,anisum2 ,fr5*--,anis2 ,g]man--,anis4 ,?is well-kn[n plant1 :i* is cultivat$ 9 _m localities on a l>ge scale1 belongs to ! ,ord] ( ,umbellif]4 ,! se$s conta9 ab\t ?ree p] c5t ( a v aromatic ess5tial oil :i* f9ds application 9 ! manufacture ( soap & 9 *eap p]fum]y2 x is *iefly us$ z a flavor+ = liqueurs4 ,good anise mu/ h a light gre5 color1 an agreeable sweeti% odor1 & a %>p ta/e4 ,9 ord] to increase ! weight1 anise is occasionally moi/5$ ) wat]2 su* se$s look swoll51 are apt to become slimy1 & !n furni% a less fragrant oil4 ,anise is n to be conf\nd$ ) />-anise1 :i* w be m5tion$ h]eaft]4 ,,balm4 ,lat9--,melissa (fic9alis2 ,fr5*--,melisse2 ,g]man--,meliss5kraut4 ,melissa (fic9alis1 an h]bace\s plant ) l>ge1 beautiful fl[]s1 :i* gr[s wild 9 our woods1 conta9s a v sweet-smell+ oil 9 small quantities4 ,?is c be extract$ by di/illation f ! fre% h]b1 & furni%es v f9e p]fumes4 ,oil ( ,melissa ( ! m>ket is1 h[ev]1 usually an ,ea/ ,indian oil1 d]iv$ f ,&ropogon citratus4 ,see "u ,citronella4 ,,bay 7,,sweet ,,bay74 ,lat9--,laurus nobilis2 ,fr5*--,lauri]2 ,g]man--,lorbe]fr*te4 ,! fruits ( ! bay-tree conta9 mu* ess5tial oil :i* is us$ less 9 ! manufacture ( p]fum]y ?an = sc5t+ soap4 ,v5ice is ! mo/ important po9t ( export4 ,see ! next article4 ,,bay 7,,we/ ,,indian74 ,lat9--,myrcia acris2 ,fr5*--7,huile de7 ,bay2 ,g]man--,bay 7-,oel74 ,! ess5tial oil obta9$ f ! leaves ( ?is tree1 a native ( ! ,we/ ,indies1 possesses a v aromatic1 refre%+ odor some:at resembl+ t ( allspice4 ,x is kn[n 9 ! m>ket z bay oil or oil ( bay4 ,dur+ ! la/ decade or s its use has l>gely ext5d$1 &1 :ile =m]ly almo/ unkn[n on ! cont95t ( ,europe1 has become an important article = ! p]fum]4 ,an alcoholic di/illate1 prep>$ by di/ill+ ! fre% leaves ) ! crude _s f :i* rum is o!rwise obta9$1 is kn[n z bay-rum1 & is us$ z a pleasant & refre%+ wa% = ! sk94 ,bay-rum may also be made by dissolv+ ! oil1 toge!r ) c]ta9 o!r +r$i5ts1 9 alcohol4 ,,b5zo94 ,lat9--,b5zo9um2 ,fr5*--,b5jo92 ,g]man--,b5zoh>z4 ,?is gum-res91 :i* possesses a pleasant vanilla-l odor1 comes f a tree belong+ to ! ,ord] ( ,/yracace1 ! ,/yrax ,b5zo91 & probably ano!r species ( ,/yrax1 indig5\s to tropical ,asia1 especially ,siam & ,sumatra4 ,! collection ( b5zo9 is v simil> to t ( p9e res92 ! b>k ( ! tree is cut op51 ! exud+ juice is all[$ to h>d5 on ! trunk1 & is ?us br\ght into comm]ce4 ,b5zo9 diff]s accord+ to its orig91 ! age ( ! tree1 etc41 & 9 comm]ce a numb] ( sorts 7,siam1 ,p5ang1 ,palembang1 & ,sumatra7 are di/+ui%$4 ,z a rule1 b5zo9 comes 9 lumps rang+ 9 size to t ( a *ild's head4 ,!y are ( a light gray color & inclose :ite1 almond-%ap$ pieces4 ,! f9e/ quality1 kn[n z ,siam b5zo9 aft] its s\rce1 usually is 9 small pieces 7,siam b5zo9 9 te>s7 :i* are transluc5t1 light yell[ to br[n ext]nally1 b milky :ite on fracture1 & h a /rong vanilla odor4 ,less f9e b /ill v good is ,siam b5zo9 9 lumps1 consi/+ ( l>ge r$di%-br[n pieces inclos+ :ite p>ticles4 ,all o!r k9ds m5tion$ above come f ! isl& ( ,sumatra1 9 lumps ! size ( a fi/4 ,:at 0 =m]ly kn[n z ,calcutta b5zo9 =m$ l>ge friable pieces ( a dirty r$di%-gray color4 ,siam z well z ,p5ang b5zo9 (t5 conta9s1 besides b5zoic acid1 also c9namic acid2 x is n kn[n :y x is n a regul> con/itu5t4 ,! wor/ quality is sold z 8b5zo9 sorts10 consi/+ ( br[ni% pieces )\t :ite spots2 !y are (t5 mix$ ) spl9t]s ( wood1 ba/ fibres1 & fragm5ts ( leaves1 & c be us$ only = *eap p]fumes4 ,good b5zo91 besides ! qualities nam$1 mu/ h a sweeti% & burn+ %>p ta/e1 x %\ld be v friable1 & :5 heat$ 9 a porcela9 capsule %\ld emit vapors 7b5zoic acid7 ( an acrid ta/e & a pron\nc$ aromatic odor2 x %\ld dissolve completely 9 /rong alcohol4 ,9 p]fum]y1 b5zo9 s]ves = ! prep>ation ( _m odors1 wa%es1 & ! manufacture ( b5zoic acid4 ,! latt] w be fur!r discuss$ "u ! head ( aromatic sub/ances obta9$ by means ( *emi/ry4 ,,b]gamot4 ,lat9--,citrus ,b]gamia2 ,fr5*--,b]gamote2 ,g]man--,b]gamottefr*te4 ,! b]gamot is ! fruit ( a tree belong+ to ! ,ord] ( ,aurantiace1 :i* is cultivat$ 9 ,calabria4 ,! tree is unkn[n 9 a wild /ate4 ,! gold5-yell[ or gre5i%-yell[ fruits1 resembl+ a lemon 9 %ape1 h a bitt] & at ! same "t acid pulp2 ! ?9 r9d conta9s a v fragrant oil :i* is us$ l>gely 9 ! manufacture ( f9e p]fum]y & soaps1 & is export$ *iefly f ,mess9a & ,pal]mo4 ,,bitt] ,,almonds4 ,lat9--,amygdala am>a2 ,fr5*--,am&es amres2 ,g]man--,bitt]e ,m&eln4 ,! well-kn[n fruits ( ! bitt] almond-tree 7,amygdalus communis1 v>4 am>a74 ,!re are no def9ite botanical diff]5ces betwe5 ! sweet & ! bitt] almond-tree4 ,! only di/9ct diff]5ce is ! "* ( ! respective fruits4 ,! aromatic sub/ance obta9$ f bitt] almonds is n pres5t fully =m$ 9 ! fruits1 b results f ! *emical trans=mation ( ! amygdal9 !y conta92 ! latt] body is abs5t 9 sweet almonds4 ,,cajuput ,,leaves4 ,lat9--,folia ,cajuputi4 ,! leaves ( ,melaleuca ,cajuputi1 a tree f\nd 9 ! ,indian & ,malay ,ar*ipelago1 :i* h an aromatic odor resembl+ t ( c>damoms4 ,9 ! ,ori5t ! leaves are us$ z inc5se & = ! extraction ( ! oil !y conta94 ,,camphor ,,wood4 ,lat9--,lignum ,camphor2 ,fr5*--,bois de camphre2 ,g]man--,camph]holz4 ,! wood ( ! ,camphor-tree1 native ( ,*9a & ,japan1 is exce$+ly ri* 9 ess5tial oil1 ! firm1 :ite1 & /rong-sc5t$ camphor4 ,! latt] is usually prep>$ f ! wood at ! home ( ! tree1 especially 9 ,=mosa & ,japan1 s t ! wood h>dly =ms an article ( comm]ce & is "h enum]at$ only = complet5ess' sake4 ,9 ,*9a & 9 ,japan1 h[ev]1 x is l>gely us$ = ! manufacture ( clo?-*e/s1 trunks & w>drobes1 z ^! are nev] invad$ by insects4 ,,c>away ,,se$4 ,lat9--,sem5 ,c>vi2 ,fr5*--,c>vi2 ,g]man--,kmmelsam54 ,?is plant1 ,c>um ,c>vi1 :i* is l>gely cultivat$ 9 ,g]many1 conta9s 9 its se$s f f\r to sev5 p] c5t ( ess5tial oil :i* is extract$ by di/illation4 ,g5u9e c>away se$ is br[ni%-yell[1 po9t$ at bo? ends1 q glabr\s on exam9ation ) a l5s1 & m>k$ ) five longitud9al ribs4 ,c>away is occasionally conf\nd$ ) cum9 se$1 f ,cum9um ,cym9um1 :i* is easily recogniz$ ) a l5s3 ! se$s ( ! latt] plant h f\rte5 longitud9al ribs & are hairy4 ,! use ( c>away 9 p]fum]y is limit$ to ord9>y goods1 b 9 ! manufacture ( liqueurs x is l>gely employ$4 ,,casc>illa ,,b>k4 ,lat9--,cortex ,casc>ill2 ,fr5*--,casc>ille2 ,g]man--,casc>ill>9de4 ,?is is ! b>k ( a ,we/ ,indian tree1 ,croton ,elut]ia1 belong+ to ! ,ord] ( ,euphorbiace1 native ( ! ,bahamas4 ,x occurs 9 comm]ce 9 ! %ape ( pieces ! l5g? & ?ickness ( a f+]2 ext]nally x is :ite & fissur$1 int]nally ( a br[n color & res9\s4 ,good qualities %\ld be free f du/ & fractur$ pieces 7sift$ casc>illa71 ( a w>m aromatic ta/e1 & a v agreeable odor :i* becomes m m>k$ on be+ heat$4 ,ano!r v>iety ( casc>illa d]iv$ f ,s\? ,africa1 ,casc>illa gratissima1 has v fragrant leaves :i* c be us$ imm$iately z inc5se1 j z casc>illa 9 g5]al is employ$ 9 p]fum]y *iefly = fumigat+ p[d]s & wat]s4 ,,cassie4 ,lat9--,acacia f>nesiana2 ,fr5*--,cassie2 ,g]man--,acacie4 ,! fl[]s ( ,acacia f>nesiana 7,willd471 "o ( ! true acacias1 native ( ! ,ea/ ,indies1 :i* fl\ri%es f>!r nor? ?an ! o!r v>ieties1 cultivat$ l>gely 9 s\!rn ,france = ! delightful odor :i* resembles t ( violets b is m int5se4 ,! fl[]s are collect$ & made to yield _! odor\s pr9ciple by "o ( ! me?ods to be describ$ h]eaft]4 ,! plant :i* is g5]ally b falsely call$ ,acacia 9 ?is c\ntry1 viz41 ,rob9ia pseudoacacia1 likewise be>s v fragrant fl[]s :i* und\bt$ly c be made to yield a p]fume by "s "o ( ! usual me?ods2 b s f> we "k ( no p]fume into :i* ! odor ( ,rob9ia fl[]s ent]s4 ,moreov]1 x is n alone ! fl[]s ( ,acacia f>nesiana :i* may be utiliz$ = ! prep>ation ( ! cassie p]fume2 ! black currant1 ,ribes nig]1 conta9s 9 its fl[]s an odor closely resembl+ ! =m]2 ?is is actually us$ 9 ! prep>ation ( an oil sold "u ! "n ( 8oil ( cassie40 ,! latt] plant fl\ri%es 9 our nor!rn ,/ates & w\ld answ] z a sub/itute = ,acacia f>nesiana1 :i* _c /& our nor!rn w9t]s4 ,,c$> ,,wood4 ,lat9--,lignum ,c$ri2 ,fr5*--,bois de cdre2 ,g]man--,c$]nholz4 ,! wood met ) 9 comm]ce is d]iv$ f ! ,virg9ian junip] tree1 ,junip]us virg9iana1 :i* is us$ 9 l>ge quantities = inclos+ lead p5cils4 ,! *ips1 ! (fal f ?is manufacture1 c be employ$ ) advantage = ! extraction ( ! ess5tial oil conta9$ !re94 ,long uni=m %av+s ( ?is wood are also us$ = fumigation1 & ! sawdu/ = *eap sa*et p[d]s4 ,c$> wood is r$di%-br[n1 fragrant1 v s(t1 & splits easily4 ,9 ! p]fum]y indu/ry x usually passes "u ! "n ( ! 8c$> ( ,lebanon10 al?\gh ! wood f ! la/-m5tion$ tree 7,c$rus libanotica7 has q a diff]5t agreeable odor1 is v firm1 r$di%-br[n1 & ( a v bitt] ta/e--qualities by :i* x is readily di/+ui%$ f ! o!r4 ,,c9namon4 ,lat9--,c9namomum2 ,fr5*--,canelle2 ,g]man--,zimmtr9de4 ,c9namon consi/s ( ! b>k ( ! "y twigs ( ! c9namon-tree1 ,c9namomum zeylanicum1 indig5\s to ,ceylon4 ,good c9namon consi/s ( ?91 tubul>1 roll$ pieces ( b>k :i* are smoo?1 light br[n 7d>k] on fracture71 ( a pron\nc$ *>act]i/ic odor1 & a burn+ & at ! same "t sweet ta/e4 ,! mo/ valuable 9 comm]ce is t f ,ceylon2 ! ?ick] b>k is less f9e4 ,*9ese c9namon or cassia 7,fr5*1 ,cassie2 ,g]man1 ,zimmtcassia7 consi/s ( ! b>k ( ! cassia-tree1 an undet]m9$ species ( ,c9namomum indig5\s to ,s\!rn ,*9a2 ?is is grayi%-br[n & has ! g5]al prop]ties ( true c9namon1 b x z well z ! oil extract$ f x has a less f9e odor ?an c9namon or oil ( c9namon4 ,a v f9e k9d ( ,c9namon has = a numb] ( ye>s pa/ appe>$ on ! m>ket "u ! "n ( ,saigon c9namon4 ,x is v ri* 9 oil1 & is export$ f ,co*9-,*9a4 ,besides ! true oils ( c9namon & cassia1 o!r ess5tial oils are met ) 9 comm]ce "u ! names ( oil ( c9namon fl[]s & oil ( c9namon leaves1 b _! odor is n s f9e z t ( ! =m]4 ,! s-call$ c9namon fl[]s are ! unripe fruits ( v>i\s c9namon laurels1 collect$ aft] ! fall ( ! blossoms4 ,!y =m br[ni% cones ! l5g? ( ! nail ( ! little f+]1 & furni% an ess5tial oil ^: odor resembles t ( c9namon4 ,,citron4 ,lat9--,fructus ,citri2 ,fr5*--,citron2 ,g]man--,citron5fr*te4 ,! fruit ( a tree1 ,citrus m$ica1 indig5\s to nor!rn ,india1 b l>gely cultivat$ 9 ! c\ntries situat$ ar\nd ! ,m$it]ranean & 9 o!r c\ntries4 ,x is cultivat$ bo? = ! pleasant acid juice ( ! fruit & = _! fragrant r9ds4 ,only ! latt] are ( value = our purposes4 ,x occurs 9 ,european comm]ce "u ! "n ( ,citronat or citron peel4 ,good comm]cial citron peel %\ld be 9 qu>t]s & z fre% z possible1 :i* is %[n by its s(tness1 ! yell[ color1 & ! /rong odor4 ,old peel looks %runk5 & br[ni% & has b little pleasant odor4 ,,citron ,,fl[]s4 ,lat9--,flores ,citri2 ,fr5*--,fleurs de citron2 ,g]man--,citron5bl!n4 ,! fl[]s ( ! citron-tree 7,citrus m$ica7 are :ite1 fragrant1 & conta9 a v aromatic ess5tial oil2 b z ! oil is always extract$ f ! fre% fl[]s1 ! latt] d n =m an article ( comm]ce4 ,,*]rylaurel ,,leaves4 ,lat9--,folia ,lauroc]asi2 ,fr5*--,lauri]-crise2 ,g]man--,kirs*lorbe]bltt]4 ,! leaves ( ?is tree 7,prunus ,lauroc]asus71 :i* is l>gely cultivat$ = (fic9al purposes1 furni% an odor\s sub/ance completely id5tical ) t conta9$ 9 bitt] almonds1 or1 r1 =m$ 9 !m "u c]ta9 conditions4 ,z ! extraction ( ! odor\s sub/ance f bitt] almonds is mu* *eap]1 *]ry-laurel is b r>ely us$4 ,,citronella4 ,lat9--,&ropogon ,n>dus2 ,fr5*--,citronelle2 ,g]man--,citronella4 ,?is grass1 :i*1 l ! oil prep>$ f x1 is call$ citronella1 is a native ( nor!rn ,india1 & is l>gely cultivat$ 9 ,ceylon1 :]e l>ge quantities are work$ = ! oil2 = ?is reason ! grass itself is seldom met ) 9 comm]ce4 ,its odor is some:at simil> to t ( ! ,indian lemon grass1 t ( v]b5a1 & t ( sev]al o!r aromatic plants1 9 place ( :i* citronella is frequ5tly employ$4 ,mu* confusion exi/s 9 mu* ( ! curr5t lit]ature reg>d+ ! s\rce & synonymy ( ! ,indian grass oils & alli$ products4 ,! foll[+ li/ conta9s ! mo/ important ones3 #a4 ,&ropogon citratus ,,dc4--,lemon ,grass4 ,! oil is kn[n z ,lemon ,grass ,oil1 ,indian ,v]b5a ,oil or ,indian ,melissa ,oil1 or simply ,oil ( ,v]b5a or ,oil ( ,melissa4 #b4 ,&ropogon lanig] ,desf4--,?is is ! ,juncus odoratus or ,h]ba ,s*o5an?i ( old] ph>macy4 ,no oil is prep>$ f ?is4 #c4 ,&ropogon muricatus ,retz4--,cuscus or ,vetiv]4 ,s\rce ( ,oil ( ,vetiv]4 #d4 ,&ropogon n>dus ,l4--,citronella4 ,s\rce ( ,oil ( ,citronella4 #e4 ,&ropogon ,s*o5an?us ,l4--,g+] ,grass4 ,! oil is kn[n z ,oil ( ,g+] ,grass1 ,oil ( ,g]anium ,grass1 ,oil ( ,indian ,g]anium or simply ,oil ( ,g]anium1 also ,oil ( ,rose ,g]anium 8,rose0 is "h a corruption ( ! ,h9do/anee "n ( ! plant1 viz41 ,rusa1 ,oil ( ,rusa ,grass1 ,oil ( ,rusa1 ,oil ( ,palm>osa4--,! two t]ms 8,oil ( ,g]anium0 & 8,oil ( ,rose ,g]anium0 %\ld be ab&on$ = ?is oil1 to avoid confusion ) ! 8,oil ( 7,rose7 ,g]anium0 obta9$ f ,pel>gonium4 ,see "u 8,g]anium40 ,,clove4 ,lat9--,c>yophylli2 ,fr5*--,cl\s de gir(le2 ,g]man--,nelk5gewrz4 ,?is well-kn[n spice comes f a tree1 ,c>yophyllus aromaticus1 native ( ! ,moluccas1 & l>gely cultivat$ at ,zanzib>1 ,pemba1 & else:]e4 ,x consi/s ( ! clos$ buds4 ,! ma9 ess5tial ( good quality is ! greate/ possible fre%ness1 :i* may be recogniz$ by ! cloves be+ full1 heavy1 r$di%-br[n1 & ( a fatty aspect1 & !y mu/ conta9 s mu* ess5tial oil 7ab\t #ah p] c5t7 t :5 cru%$ betwe5 ! f+]s ! latt] %\ld be /a9$ yell[i%-br[n4 ,be=e buy+1 ?is te/ %\ld always be made1 & att5tion paid to ! fact :e!r ! :iti% du/ is pres5t 9 ! wr9kles ab\t ! head4 ,we h f\nd 9 comm]ce cloves f :i* ! ess5tial oil _h be5 fraudul5tly extract$ ) alcohol & h5ce 7 wor?less2 su* cloves may be recogniz$ by ! fa9t odor & ta/e1 b especially by ! abs5ce ( ! :iti% du/4 ,,cucumb]4 ,lat9--,cucumis sativus2 ,fr5*--,concombre2 ,g]man--,gurke4 ,! well-kn[n fruits ( ?is kit*5-g>d5 plant1 ?\gh n /rictly sweet-sc5t$1 possess a peculi> refre%+ odor :i* has f\nd application 9 p]fum]y4 ,c]ta9 products belong+ "u ?is head require ! odor ( cucumb]1 & !re=e ?is plant is to be includ$ among ! aromatic plants 9 a wid] s5se4 ,,culilaban ,,b>k4 ,lat9--,cortex ,culilavan2 ,fr5*--,ecorce culilaban2 ,g]man--,kulilabanr9de4 ,! b>k ( ,c9namomum ,culilavan ,nees1 a plant indig5\s to ! ,molucca isl&s1 us$ to occur 9 comm]ce 9 ! %ape ( long1 flat pieces ( a yell[i%-br[n color1 ) an odor l a mixture ( c9namon1 sassafras1 & clove oils4 ,x is r>ely met ) n[4 ,,dill4 ,lat9--,sem5 ,ane?i2 ,fr5*--,ane?2 ,g]man--,dillsam54 ,?is plant1 ,ane?um graveol5s1 :i* is indig5\s to ! ,m$it]ranean region & s\!rn ,russia1 conta9s 9 all its p>ts1 p>ticul>ly 9 ! se$s1 an oil ( a peculi> odor1 :i* is us$ z a p]fume = soap1 also 9 *eap p]fum]y1 & especially z a flavor+ = liqueurs4 ,,eld] ,,fl[]s4 ,lat9--,flores ,sambuci2 ,fr5*--,sureau2 ,g]man--,hollund]bl!n4 ,?is bu%1 ,sambucus nig]1 :i* gr[s wild 9 ,europe1 be>s umbell> fl[]s :i* are (fic9al1 b conta9 besides a pleasant odor :i* c be extract$ f !m4 ,! odor ( ! fl[]s det]iorates on dry+1 h5ce 9 p]fum]y only ! fre% fl[]s %\ld be us$4 ,! ,am]ican eld] 7,sambucus canad5sis7 c\ld easily be us$ 9 place ( x4 ,,f5nel 7,,se$ ,,& ,,h]b74 ,lat9--,fniculum2 ,fr5*--,f5\il2 ,g]man--,f5*el4 ,?is plant1 ,fniculum vulg>e1 ,ord] ,umbellif]1 is l>gely cultivat$ 9 ,europe4 ,x conta9s an ess5tial oil 9 all its p>ts1 b especially 9 ! se$s4 ,! plant is r>ely us$ 9 p]fum]y1 b m frequ5tly 9 ! manufacture ( liqueurs4 ,! h]b1 dri$ & comm9ut$1 ent]s into ! composition ( "s *eap sa*ets4 ,,frangipanni 7see ,plum]ia74 ,,g]anium4 ,lat9--,pel>gonium roseum2 ,fr5*--,granium2 ,g]man--,g]anium4 ,?is plant1 orig9ally indig5\s 9 ,s\? ,africa1 conta9s 9 its leaves an ess5tial oil ^: odor closely resembles t ( roses4 ,at pres5t x is cultivat$ on a l>ge scale 9 _m p>ts ( ,france & 9 ,turkey1 solely = ! purposes ( p]fum]y4 ,?is plant w\ld gr[ freely 9 our ,s\!rn & ,middle ,/ates1 & c\ld be cultivat$ ) advantage = ! extraction ( its highly valu$ p]fume4 ,! t]ms 8,oil ( ,g]anium0 & 8,oil ( ,rose ,g]anium0 ought to be re/rict$ 9 comm]ce to ! oil obta9$ f true g]anium 7,pel>gonium74 ,un=tunately1 !y are yet v commonly appli$ to an ,ea/ ,indian oil obta9$ f a species ( ,&ropogon 7see "u ,citronella74 ,h$yosmum ,fl[]s4 ,on ! ,antilles !re are a numb] ( bu%es belong+ to ! ,g5us ,h$yosmum1 ,ord] ,*loran?ace1 ^: fl[]s possess a magnific5t1 truly intoxicat+ odor4 ,?us f> ^! odors seem to h be5 accessible only to ,engli% p]fum]s4 ,! p]fumes sold "u ?is "n by ,cont95tal manufactur]s are m]ely comb9ations ( diff]5t odors4 ,,heliotrope4 ,lat9--,heliotropium p]uvianum2 ,fr5*--,hliotrope2 ,g]man--,heliotrop5bl!n4 ,! fl[]s ( ?is plant1 :i* fl\ri%es well 9 all temp]ate or tropic c\ntries1 possess a v pleasant odor1 ab\t ! prep>ation ( :i* we %all h m to say h]eaft]4 ,9 ,europe only ,fr5* p]fum]s h manufactur$ x2 accord+ to ! au?or's exp]im5ts1 h[ev]1 its extraction pres5ts no m difficulty ?an t ( any o!r plant4 ,a syn!tic1 *emical product1 kn[n z pip]onal1 relat$ to vanill9 & cum>91 possesses ! odor ( ! heliotrope 9 a mo/ rem>kable degree4 ,x is !re=e mu* us$ to imitate ! latt]4 ,9 comm]ce x is kn[n z heliotrop94 ,,honeysuckle4 ,lat9--,flores ,lonic]2 ,fr5*--,*vre-feuille2 ,g]man-- ,geisblattbl!n4 ,?is well-kn[n climb+ plant1 ,lonic]a ,caprifolium1 f\nd 9 _m ( our g>d5 b[]s1 conta9s an exce$+ly fragrant oil 9 its num]\s fl[]s1 f :i* ! au?or has prep>$ x4 ,"s ( ! ,am]ican species ( honeysuckle w\ld1 no d\bt1 likewise yield an ess5tial oil4 ,! oil sold 9 comm]ce "u ?is "n is n obta9$ f ^! fl[]s1 b is an imitation ( ! odor conv5tionally accept$ = x4 ,! true oil ( honeysuckle1 fir/ prep>$ by ! au?or1 f> surpasses ^! imitations 9 fragrance4 ,,hyssop4 ,lat9--,hyssopus (fic9alis2 ,fr5*--,hyssope2 ,g]man--,ysopkraut4 ,hyssop possesses a /rong odor1 a v bitt] ta/e1 & is us$ only = *eap p]fum]y1 b m frequ5tly 9 ! manufacture ( liqueurs4 ,,jasm9e4 ,lat9--,jasm9um odoratissimum2 ,fr5*--,jasm92 ,g]man--,jasm9bl!n4 ,true jasm9e--n to be conf\nd$ ) ,g]man jasm9e 7,philadelphus coron>ius1 kn[n "h z ! mock orange1 or ! ,syr+a ( cultivation7 :i* is likewise employ$ 9 p]fum]y--fl\ri%es p>ticul>ly 9 ! coa/ l&s ( ! ,m$it]ranean1 :]e x is cultivat$ z a dw>f tree4 ,! odor obta9$ f ! fl[]s is "o ( ! f9e/ & mo/ exp5sive 9 exi/5ce1 & = ?is reason x w\ld be well wor? try+ ! cultivation 9 our s\!rn ,/ates4 ,at pres5t ne>ly all ! true jasm9e p]fume 7pomade1 extract1 etc47 comes f ,france4 ,,lav5d]4 ,lat9--,lav&ula v]a2 ,fr5*--,lav&e2 ,g]man--,lav5del4 ,true lav5d]1 :i* belongs to ! ,ord] ( ,labiat t conta9s _m aromatic plants1 is "o ( ! mo/ anci5t 9 our art2 x 0 e>ly us$ 9 ,greece = purposes ( p]fum]y4 ,al?\gh true lav5d] fl\ri%es ?r\gh\t c5tral ,europe1 its cultivation on a l>ge scale is c>ri$ on *iefly 9 ,engl&1 & ! oil ( lav5d] f ,engli% factories is mo/ highly priz$4 ,mu* lav5d] is also gr[n 9 ,france1 b ! product1 ?\gh v f9e1 has a mu* l[] value4 ,true lav5d] is to be di/+ui%$ f spike-lav5d] 7,fr5*1 aspic2 ,g]man1 ,spik-,lav5del71 ^: odor is simil> to t ( true lav5d]1 b furni%es a mu* less aromatic p]fume4 ,! cultivation ( lav5d] 9 ?is c\ntry 7,u4 ,s47 might give good results4 ,,lemon4 ,lat9--,citrus ,limonum2 ,fr5*--,limon2 ,g]man--,limon5fr*te4 ,! fruits ( ! ,s\? ,european lemon-tree1 n to be conf\nd$ ) citrons1 resemble ! latt] 9 appe>ance1 b !y are small]1 h a m acid ta/e & a ?9n] r9d4 ,! peel conta9s an ess5tial oil :i* is v simil> 9 odor to t ( ! citron4 ,h5ce ! oils ( lemon1 limetta 7f ,citrus ,limetta71 & citron are us$ = ! same purposes2 b :5 ! ?ree oils are imm$iately comp>$1 an exp]i5c$ olfactory organ p]ceives a m>k$ diff]5ce betwe5 !m4 ,,lemon ,,grass4 ,lat9--,&ropogon citrates2 ,fr5*--,s*o5an!2 ,g]man--,citron5grass4 ,?is grass1 :i* be>s a close resemblance to citronella1 is l>gely cultivat$1 especially 9 ,india & ,ceylon1 = ! ess5tial oil x conta9s4 ,! odor ( ! grass is simil> to t ( v]b5a1 s t its oil is (t5 us$ z an adult]ant or r z a sub/itute = ! =m]4 7,comp>e ! article on 8,citronella407 ,,lilac4 ,lat9--,flores ,syr+2 ,fr5*--,lilas2 ,g]man--,fli$]bl!n4 ,?is plant1 ,syr+a vulg>is1 a native ( ,p]sia b fully acclimat$ 9 ,europe & 9 ?is c\ntry1 has v fragrant fl[]s1 ! odor ( :i* c be obta9$ only f ! fre% blossoms4 ,a rec5tly discov]$ liquid pr9ciple1 n[ kn[n z t]p9eol 7,c#aj;,h#ag,,oh71 :i* exi/s 9 _m ess5tial oils1 & 9 ^!1 9 ! portion boil+ betwe5 #dbj & #dbd ,f41 possesses ! lilac odor 9 a mo/ pron\nc$ degree1 & to its pres5ce 9 ! lilac fl[]s ! peculi> odor ( ! latt] is1 no d\bt1 due4 ,x is obta9able 9 ! m>ket "u ! "n lilac9e4 ,! ,syr+a ( ! flori/s is n ! true lilac1 b ! same z ! ,mock ,orange1 viz41 ,philadelphus coron>ius4 ,,lily4 ,lat9--,lilium c&idum2 ,fr5*--,lis2 ,g]man--,lili5bl!n4 ,! rem>ks made "u ! head ( ,wallfl[] apply equally to ! blossoms ( ! :ite g>d5 lily3 /range to say1 !y are n us$ 9 p]fum]y1 & all ! s-call$ odors ( lily are mixtures ( sev]al aromatic sub/ances4 ,! au?or has succe$$ 9 sep>at+ f ! fl[]s1 by means ( petroleum e!r1 ! delightful odor pres5t 9 l>ge am\nt 9 ! blossoms ( ?is plant1 & has employ$ x 9 ! manufacture ( magnific5t p]fumes4 ,,mace4 ,lat9--,macis2 ,fr5*--,macis2 ,g]man--,muscatbl!4 ,?is sub/ance is ! dri$ arillus cov]+ ! fruits ( ,myri/ica fragrans1 ! s-call$ nutmegs4 ,! tree be>+ !m is indig5\s to a gr\p ( isl&s 9 ! ,indian ,ar*ipelago & is cultivat$ especially on ! ,molucca isl&s4 ,al?\gh mace is 9 su* close relation ) nutmeg1 yet1 /range to say1 ! aromatic sub/ance diff]s decid$ly f t ( ! nut4 ,mace ( good quality =ms pieces ( orange-yell[ color2 !y are fle%y1 usually slit op5 on "o side1 h a /rong odor1 te> ) difficulty1 & are s oily t :5 cru%$ !y /a9 ! f+]s br[ni%-yell[4 ,mace is l>gely us$ 9 ! prep>ation ( sa*ets & p>ticul>ly = sc5t+ soap4 ,9 ,engl&1 soap sc5t$ ) mace is well lik$4 ,,magnolia4 ,lat9--,magnolia gr&iflora2 ,fr5*--,magnolia2 ,g]man--,magnoliabl!n4 ,! magnolia 7,magnolia gr&iflora71 indig5\s to ! w>m] p>ts ( ,s\?1 ,c5tral1 & ,nor? ,am]ica1 be>s l>ge :ite fl[]s hav+ a delightful odor :i* c be extract$ by means ( petroleum e!r4 ,9 ! same way1 truly intoxicat+ p]fumes may be obta9$ f o!r v>ieties ( magnolia4 ,9 our climate ^! plants fl\ri% only 9 cons]vatories1 & 9 _! home no /eps h yet be5 tak5 to utilize ^! natural treasures 9 a prop] way2 h5ce ,european manufactur]s inv>iably produce ! p]fume call$ magnolia by comb9ation ( diff]5t odors4 ,,m>joram4 ,lat9--,h]ba majoran2 ,fr5*--,m>jola9e2 ,g]man--,majorankraut4 ,?is plant1 ,origanum ,majorana 7vulg>e71 frequ5tly cultivat$ 9 kit*5 g>d5s1 possesses 9 all its p>ts a /rong odor due to an ess5tial oil4 ,! latt]1 :i* is q exp5sive1 is b little us$1 & probably only = cul9>y purposes4 8,oil ( ,origanum0 9 ,engli%-speak+ c\ntries is int5d$ to mean ,oil ( ,?yme 7f ,?ymus vulg>is71 & nev] means ,oil ( ,m>joram4 ,,mead[ ,,sweet4 ,lat9--,spira ulm>ia2 ,fr5*--,re9e des prs2 ,g]man--,spi]/aude4 ,?is plant is frequ5t 9 ,europe on damp mead[s1 & conta9s an aromatic sub/ance closely alli$ to oil ( w9t]gre51 :i* occurs also 9 ! ,canadian v>iety4 ,,m9t4 ,lat9--,m5?a2 ,fr5*--,m5!2 ,g]man--,m9ze4 ,! v>ieties ( m9t claim+ our att5tion are ! foll[+3 ,m5?a pip]ita1 ,pepp]m9t 7,fr5*3 ,m5! poivre2 ,g]man3 ,pfeff]m9ze74--,m5?a viridis1 ,spe>m9t 7,fr5*3 ,m5! v]te2 ,g]man3 ,grne ,m9ze74--,m5?a crispa1 ,crisp ,m9t 7,fr5*3 ,m5! crpue or frise2 ,g]man3 ,krause ,m9ze74 ,all ( ! m9ts h a pleasant odor2 besides ! plants nam$ above1 we may m5tion ,m5?a aquatica1 ^: odor fa9tly b di/9ctly recalls t ( musk4 ,l lav5d]1 ,m5?a crispa & ,m4 pip]ita are cultivat$ p>ticul>ly 9 ,engl&1 & ! ,engli% oils are ! mo/ sup]ior4 ,m5?a pip]ita is also l>gely cultivat$ 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,m5?a viridis & its oil are almo/ exclusively conf9$ to ?is c\ntry4 ,,musk-,,se$4 ,lat9--,sem5 ,abelmos*i2 ,fr5*--,gra9s d'ambrette2 ,g]man--,bisamkrn]4 ,! tree1 ,hibiscus ,abelmos*us1 indig5\s to ,africa & ,india1 be>s fruit capsules conta9+ r$di%-gray se$s ) groov$ surface1 s-call$ musk-se$s4 ,!y h an odor resembl+ musk1 b mu* weak]1 ?\gh x becomes m pron\nc$ :5 ! se$s are bruis$4 ,besides ?is species ( ,hibiscus1 o!r plants belong+ to ! same ord] are aromatic & are also us$ 9 p]fum]y4 ,,myrrh4 ,lat9--,myrrha2 ,fr5*--,myrrhe2 ,g]man--,myrrhe4 ,! gum-res9 :i* we call myrrh has long be5 kn[n 9 ! ,ea/1 :]e x 0 celebrat$ z "o ( ! f9e/ p]fumes1 along ) spik5>d & frank9c5se4 ,! tree1 ,balsamod5dron ,myrrha 7or ,commiphora ,myrrha ,engl]7 is indig5\s to ! c\ntries bord]+ ! ,r$ ,sea to ab\t #bb ,n4 ,lat42 ! gum exudes p>tly spontane\sly f ! trunk4 ,9 ,european comm]ce myrrh appe>s 9 diff]5t sorts2 t call$ myrrha electa or myrrha 9 lacrimis is ! mo/ preci\s2 x =ms te>s ( a gold5 yell[ to br[n color1 trav]s$ by :ite ve9s2 !y h a pleasant smell4 ,t call$ myrrha naturalis is inf]ior1 b on be+ heat$ develops ! *>act]i/ic aroma4 ,9 comm]ce a product is sometimes (f]$ by ! "n ( myrrh :i* is no?+ b *]ry-tree gum sc5t$ ) g5u9e myrrh4 ,,myrtle ,,leaves4 ,lat9--,myrtus communis2 ,fr5*--,myrte2 ,g]man--,myrt5bltt]4 ,! leaves ( ?is ,s\!rn ,european plant diffuse a pleasant odor2 ! oil to :i* x is due c be extract$ by di/illation2 yet ! p]fumes usually call$ myrtle are n obta9$ f ! plant1 b are made by ! comb9ation ( sev]al aromatic sub/ances4 ,! aromatic wat] kn[n1 especially 9 ,france1 z 8eau d'anges0 is obta9$ by ! di/illation ( myrtle leaves ) wat]4 ,,n>cissus4 ,lat9--,n>cissus poeticus2 ,fr5*--,n>cisse2 ,g]man--,n>ciss5bl!n4 ,! blossoms ( ?is favorite g>d5 plant1 :i* is cultivat$ on a l>ge scale ne> ,nice1 h a pleasant1 almo/ n>cotic odor :i* may be extract$ 9 v>i\s ways2 ?\gh ! greate/ "p ( ! s-call$ n>cissus p]fumes are made artificially4 ,ano!r species ( ,n>cissus 7,n>cissus ,jonquilla7 is frequ5tly cultivat$ 9 w>m c\ntries = its pleasant sc5t2 b ! p]fumes g5]ally f\nd 9 ! m>ket "u ! "n ( ,extract1 etc41 ( ,jonquil are artificial comp\nds4 ,,nutmeg4 ,lat9--,myri/ica2 ,fr5*--,muscade2 ,g]man--,muscatnsse4 ,^! nuts are almo/ sph]ical 9 %ape1 ! size ( a small walnut1 ( a grayi%-br[n color ext]nally1 & usually coat$ ) a fa9t :iti%-gray cov]+ 7:i* is lime74 ,int]nally !y are r$di%-br[n1 ) :ite m>bl$ spots4 ,good fre% nutmegs %\ld be d5se1 heavy1 & s oily t :5 pi]c$ ) a ne$le a drop ( oil %\ld foll[ ! )drawal ( ! latt]4 ,nuts :i* are holl[1 wormy1 & ( a fa9t odor _c be us$ 9 p]fum]y4 ,oil ( nutmeg is us$ ext5sively 9 p]fum]y1 b is r>ely employ$ pure1 m commonly 9 comb9ation ) o!r /rong odors4 ,,olibanum4 ,lat9--,olibanum2 ,fr5*--,enc5s2 ,g]man--,weihrau*4 ,?is gum-res91 employ$ ev5 by ! anci5t civiliz$ nations ( ,asia1 especially z inc5se = religi\s purposes1 comes f ,ea/ ,african trees1 v>i\s species ( ,boswellia4 ,f9e olibanum appe>s 9 light yell[ te>s1 v transp>5t & h>d1 ^: pleasant ?\gh fa9t odor becomes p>ticul>ly m>k$ :5 x is ?r[n on hot coals4 ,9 p]fum]y olibanum is us$ almo/ exclusively = pa/ils1 fumigat+ p[d]s1 etc4 ,pulv]ul5t olibanum con/itutes an inf]ior quality & is (t5 adult]at$ ) p9e res94 ,,opopanax4 ,lat9--,res9a ,opopanax4 ,! root /ock ( an umbellif]\s plant1 indig5\s 9 ,syria1 n[ recogniz$ at ,balsamod5dron ,kafal1 furni%es a yell[ milky sap conta9+ an aromatic res9 ) an odor resembl+ t ( gum ammoniacum4 ,at lea/ ! opopanax n[ obta9able 9 ! m>ket is d]iv$ f ?is s\rce4 ,true opopanax res91 su* z us$ to rea* ! m>ket =m]ly1 is n[ unobta9able1 & its true s\rce is yet unkn[n4 ,opopanax oil is us$ 9 p]fum]y to "s ext5t4 ,,orange ,,fl[]s4 ,lat9--,flores ,aurantii2 ,fr5*--,fleurs d'oranges2 ,g]man--,orang5bl!n4 ,! fl[]s ( ! bitt] orange tree 7,citrus vulg>is71 z well z ^? ( ! sweet 7,citrus ,aurantium71 conta9 v fragrant ess5tial oils1 :i* diff] 9 flavor & value accord+ to _! s\rce & mode ( prep>ation4 ,see bel[1 "u ,oil ( ,orange4 ,! leaves1 too1 conta9 a peculi> oil us$ 9 p]fum]y4 ,,orange ,,peel4 ,lat9--,cortex ,aurantii2 ,fr5*--,ecorce d'oranges2 ,g]man--,orang5s*al54 ,! v oily r9ds ( ! orange occur 9 comm]ce 9 a dri$ =m2 su* peels1 h[ev]1 c be us$ only 9 ! manufacture ( liqueurs2 9 p]fum]y no?+ b ! oil f ! fre% r9ds is employ$1 & ?is is g5]ally obta9$ by pressure4 ,,origanum4 ,see ,m>joram1 & ,?yme4 ,,orris ,,root4 ,lat9--,radix ,iridis flor5t92 ,fr5*--,iris2 ,g]man--,veil*5wurzel4 ,! ,flor5t9e sword-lily1 ,iris flor5t9a1 :i* (t5 gr[s wild 9 ,italy b is l>gely cultivat$1 has a creep+ root-/ock cov]$ ) a br[n b>k :i*1 h[ev]1 is peel$ f ! fre% root4 ,orris root occurs 9 comm]ce 9 :iti% pieces :i* are sometimes =k$2 ! surface is knotty1 & ! size may rea* ! ?ickness ( a ?umb & ! l5g? ( a f+]4 ,:5 fre%1 ! roots h a disagreeable %>p odor1 b on dry+ !y atta9 an odor :i* may be said to resemble t ( ! violet2 b on comp>+ ! two odors imm$iately1 a consid]able diff]5ce is p]ceptible ev5 to ! untra9$ olfactory s5se4 ,orris root %\ld be z fre% z possible2 ?is may be recogniz$ by its t\ghness1 ! great weight1 & ! :ite1 n yell[ color on fracture4 ,x is v frequ5tly us$ = sa*ets & = fix+ o!r odors4 ,,palm ,,oil4 ,lat9--,oleum ,palm2 ,fr5*--,huile de ,palme2 ,g]man--,palml4 ,palm oil1 a fix$ oil d]iv$ f ,elais gu9e5sis1 possesses a peculi> odor fa9tly recall+ t ( violets :i* is easily extract$4 ,al?\gh n us$ ?us f> 9 p]fum]y1 p]sonal exp]im5ts h conv9c$ ! au?or t ! odor c be employ$ 9 ! manufacture ( *eap p]fumes4 ,,pat*\ly4 ,lat9--,pogo/emon ,pat*\ly2 ,fr5*--,pat*\ly2 ,g]man--,pats*ulikraut4 ,?is h]b1 indig5\s to ! ,ea/ ,indies & ,*9a1 9 appe>ance some:at resembl+ our g>d5 sage1 is us$ 9 ! c\ntries nam$ z "o ( ! mo/ common p]fumes2 _m ,ea/ ,indian & ,*9ese goods 7su* z ,ca%m]e %awls1 ,india ink1 etc47 owe _! peculi> odor to ! pat*\ly h]b :i* is v productive4 ,9 ?is respect x c be comp>$ only ) ! nutmeg1 b exce$s ev5 ?is 9 int5sity4 ,?is h]b is n kn[n v long 9 ,europe1 b at pres5t x is import$ 9 l>ge quantities f ,india2 9 comm]ce x occurs 9 small bundles consi/+ ( /ems & leaves 7collect$ be=e fl[]+74 ,,p]u ,,balsam4 ,lat9--,balsamum p]uvianum2 ,fr5*--,beaume du ,pr\2 ,g]man--,p]ubalsam4 ,?is balsam1 import$ f ,c5tral ,am]ica 7,san ,salvador71 is d]iv$ f ,toluif]a ,p]eir2 incisions are made 9 ! b>k & trunk ( ! tree1 f :i* ! balsam exudes4 ,p]u balsam is ( a syrupy consi/5ce1 ?ick & viscid1 br[ni%-r$ 9 ?91 blacki%-br[n 9 ?ick lay]s4 ,its ta/e is pung5t1 %>p1 & bitt]1 aft]w>d acrid2 its odor is some:at smoky1 b agreeable & balsamic4 ,p]u balsam is (t5 sophi/icat$ ) fix$ oil2 ?is c be readily detect$ by agitation ) alcohol1 by :i* ! oil is sep>at$4 ,b if ca/or oil is ! adult]ant1 ?is te/ is n applicable1 z ca/or oil dissolves ) equal facility 9 alcohol4 ,,p9e-,,apple4 ,lat9--,bromelia ,ananas2 ,fr5*--,ananas2 ,g]man--,ananas4 ,! fruits ( ?is plant1 orig9ally d]iv$ f ! ,ea/ ,indies1 h a well-kn[n n>cotic odor :i* c be extract$ f !m4 ,9 comm]ce we (t5 meet ) a *emical product call$ p9e-apple e!r :i* w be describ$ at great] l5g? "u ! head ( *emical products us$ 9 p]fum]y4 ,p9e-apple e!r has an odor usually consid]$ to be l t ( ! fruit1 b :5 ! two sub/ances are imm$iately comp>$ a great diff]5ce w be detect$4 ,p9e-apple e!r f9ds q ext5sive application 9 confection]y = ! prep>ation ( lemonades1 pun*1 ices1 etc4 ,if ! true p9e-apple odor is to be prep>$ f ! fruits1 c>e mu/ be _h to use ripe fruits2 ! unripe or ov]ripe fruits possess a less delicate aroma4 ,,p9k4 ,lat9--,dian?us ,c>yophyllus2 ,fr5*--illet2 ,g]man--,nelk5bl!n4 ,! odor ( ?is favorite g>d5 plant c be easily extract$ f ! fl[]s by means ( petroleum e!r2 b ! g5u9e odor ( p9k is h>dly ev] met ) 9 p]fum]y2 ! prep>ations sold "u ?is "n be+ usually artificial mixtures ( o!r odors4 ,,plum]ia4 ,lat9--,plum]ia2 ,fr5*--,plum]ia2 ,g]man--,plum]iabl!n4 ,all ! ,plum]ias1 indig5\s to ! ,antilles1 conta9 v fragrant odors 9 _! fl[]s4 ,to ! be/ ( our k1 ^! odors h n yet be5 extract$ f ! fl[]s1 & all ! p]fumes sold "u ?is "n 7sometimes also call$ ,frangipanni7 are m]ely comb9ations ( diff]5t odors4 ,,res$a 7,,mignonette74 ,lat9--,res$a odorata2 ,fr5*--,mignonette2 ,g]man--,res$a4 ,?is h]bace\s plant1 probably indig5\s to nor!rn ,africa1 b long dome/icat$ 9 ,europe & cultivat$ 9 g>d5s1 is well kn[n = its refre%+ odor4 ,! latt]1 h[ev]1 is v difficult to extract & is yield$ only to ! me?od ( absorption 7enfleurage74 ,! true odor ( res$a1 ow+ to ! mode ( its prep>ation1 is v exp5sive1 & = ?is reason ne>ly all p]fumes sold "u ?is "n are produc$ f o!r aromatic sub/ances4 ,,rhodium4 ,lat9--,lignum ,rhodii2 ,fr5*--,bois de rose2 ,g]man--,ros5holz4 ,?is is d]iv$ f two climb+ plants1 ,convolvulus scop>ius & ,convolvulus floridus1 indig5\s to ! ,can>y isl&s1 & is ! root wood ( ^! plants4 ,its odor resembles t ( ! rose1 & ! wood is frequ5tly us$ = *eap sa*ets & = ! extraction ( ! conta9$ ess5tial oil :i* 0 =m]ly 7be=e oil ( rose g]anium 0 made on ! l>ge scale7 employ$ = ! adult]ation ( g5u9e oil ( rose4 ,,rose4 ,lat9--,rosa2 ,fr5*--,rose2 ,g]man--,ros5bl!n4 ,horticulture has produc$ innum]able v>ieties f wild species ( roses1 :i* diff] 9 size1 =m1 color1 z well z 9 odor4 ,we in/ance "h only ! v>i\s odors exhal$ by tea roses & moss roses4 ,accord+ly1 p]fum]s likewise di/+ui% diff]5t odors ( roses4 ,cultivat$ on a l>ge scale exclusively = ! extraction ( ! ess5tial oil1 we f9d diff]5t v>ieties ( roses 9 ,india1 9 ,european ,turkey 7,rosa ,damasc5a71 9 ,p]sia1 & 9 ,s\!rn ,france4 ,9 ?is c\ntry 7,u4 ,s471 too1 oil ( roses c\ld be manufactur$ ) advantage4 ,! wild rose1 sweet bri]1 ,fr5* glant9e1 possesses a delicate b v fugitive odor1 & !re=e ! p]fume sold z wild rose is usually prep>$ f o!r sub/ances ) ! addition ( oil ( roses4 ,! same rem>k applies to ! odor call$ 8:ite rose0 & to ^? sold z 8tea rose10 8moss rose10 etc4 ,,rosem>y4 ,lat9--,rosm>9us (fic9alis2 ,fr5*--,rom>92 ,g]man--,rosm>94 ,?is plant1 indig5\s to ,s\!rn & ,c5tral ,europe1 conta9s pretty l>ge quantities ( an aromatic oil 9 its leaves & fl[]s2 ! oil has a refre%+ odor & !re=e is frequ5tly add$ 9 small am\nts to f9e p]fumes4 ,,rue4 ,lat9--,ruta graveol5s2 ,fr5*--,rue2 ,g]man--,raute4 ,?is plant1 cultivat$ 9 our g>d5s & also gr[+ wild "h1 has long be5 employ$ = its /rong odor2 9 p]fum]y rue1 9 a dry /ate z well z its oil1 is occasionally us$4 ,,sage4 ,lat9--,salvia (fic9alis2 ,fr5*--,sauge2 ,g]man--,salbei4 ,all v>ieties ( sage1 ! "o nam$ be+ f\nd mo/ frequ5tly gr[+ wild 9 ! mead[s ( ,s\!rn ,europe1 & ext5sively cultivat$ 9 ,europe & 9 ?is c\ntry1 possess a v agreeable1 refre%+ odor :i* adh]es = a long "t ev5 to ! dri$ leaves2 ^! are !re=e v suitable = sa*ets1 too? p[d]s1 etc4 ,,santal ,,wood4 ,lat9--,santalum album2 ,fr5*--,santal2 ,g]man--,santalholz4 ,! tree f :i* ?is wood is d]iv$ is indig5\s to ,ea/]n ,asia1 to ! ,sunda ,isl&s4 ,! wood is s(t1 v fragrant1 & is also errone\sly call$ s&al wood4 ,! latt] is ( a d>k r$di%-br[n color1 n fragrant1 & is d]iv$ f ,pt]oc>pus santal9us1 a tree indig5\s to ,s\!rn ,india1 & ! ,philipp9e ,isl&s2 x is ( value to ! dy] & ! cab9et-mak]1 b to ! p]fum] only = color+ "s t9ctures4 ,= ! purposes ( p]fum]y use c be made only ( santal wood 7:ite or yell[ santal wood7 :i* possesses a v pleasant odor resembl+ t ( oil ( rose4 ,=m]ly ess5tial oil ( santal 0 employ$ = ! adult]ation ( oil ( rose4 ,:ite & yell[ santal wood comes f ! same tree--! =m] f ! small] trunks ( ,santalum album4 ,,sassafras4 ,lat9--,lignum ,sassafras2 ,fr5*--,sassafras2 ,g]man--,sassafra%olz4 ,sassafras wood1 d]iv$ f ! root ( ! ,am]ican tree ,sassafras (fic9alis1 appe>s 9 comm]ce 9 l>ge bundles4 ,x has a /rong peculi> odor2 9 ! b>k ( ! root ! odor is ev5 m m>k$4 ,9 ! ,european drug trade ,sassafras saw du/ is also met )1 b ?is is n r>ely mix$ ) p9e saw du/ :i* has be5 moi/5$ ) f5nel wat] & aga9 dri$4 ,9 p]fum]y sassafras wood is less us$ = ! manufacture ( volatile odors ?an = sc5t+ soap4 ,s9ce ! pr9cipal con/itu5t ( oil ( sassafras1 viz41 safrol1 has be5 f\nd to be conta9$ 9 ! crude oil ( ,japanese camphor1 ! latt] has to a v l>ge ext5t tak5 ! place ( ! natural oil4 ,,spik5>d4 ,lat9--,n>do/a*ys ,jatamansi2 ,fr5*--,spic-n>d2 ,g]man--,n>d5kraut4 ,?is plant1 belong+ to ! ,ord] ( ,val]ianace1 :i* g5]ally possess a /rong & m or less unpleasant odor1 =ms "o ( ! ma9 objects ( ,ori5tal p]fum]y2 9 ! ,ea/ ,indies1 :]e ! plant gr[s wild on ! m\nta9s1 ! odor is held ab\t 9 ! same e/imation z t ( roses1 violets1 etc41 9 ,europe4 ,spik5>d 0 probably kn[n to ! anci5t ,babylonians & ,assyrians1 = 9 ! ,bible1 9 ! ,song ( ,solomon1 we f9d ?is plant repeat$ly m5tion$ & prais$ = its pleasant odor4 ,z ! odor ( spik5>d is n appreciat$ 9 ,europe1 ! plant is r>ely met ) 9 comm]ce4 ,all p>ts ( ! plant are aromatic1 b use is *iefly made ( ! root1 consi/+ ( f9e fibres :i* are ti$ 9 bundles ! ?ickness ( a f+]4 ,,/>-,,anise4 ,lat9--,illicium2 ,sem5 ,anisi /ellati2 ,fr5*--,badiane2 ,g]man--,/]nanis4 ,/>-anise occurs 9 comm]ce 9 ! =m ( eight-*amb]$ capsules1 ea* comp>tm5t conta9+ "o glossy se$1 & is d]iv$ f a ,*9ese tree1 ,illicium anisatum4 ,! fruits are br[n1 woody2 ! se$ has a sweeti% ta/e & an odor resembl+ t ( anise4 ,outside ( p]fum]y />-anise is us$ 9 ! manufacture ( liqueurs4 ,rec5tly a drug has appe>$ 9 comm]ce "u ! "n ( />-anise :i* possesses poison\s qualities1 & is d]iv$ f ano!r v>iety ( ,illicium 7,illicium religiosum74 ,:ile ?is may be ( no consequ5ce to ! p]fum]1 x is important to ! manufactur] ( liqueurs :o always uses />-anise = f9e goods & nev] oil ( anise4 ,,/orax4 ,lat9--,/yrax2 ,fr5*--,/yrax2 ,g]man--,/orax4 ,?is product :i* belongs among ! balsams is d]iv$ f a small tree1 ,liquidamb> ori5talis1 & is obta9$ f ! b>k by heat+ ) wat]1 & also by pressure4 ,x =ms a viscid mass l turp5t9e1 has a gray color1 a burn+ %>p ta/e1 an agreeable odor1 & is easily soluble 9 /rong alcohol2 b ! odor becomes pleasant only aft] ! solution is highly dilut$4 ,/orax has ! peculi> prop]ty ( b9d+ diff]5t1 v delicate odors1 to r5d] !m less fugitive1 & = ?is reason f9ds frequ5t application 9 p]fum]y4 ,ori5tal /orax %\ld n be conf\nd$ ) ,am]ican /orax :i* occurs 9 comm]ce "u ! "n ( ,sweet ,gum1 ,gum ,wax1 or ,liquidamb]1 & is d]iv$ f ,liquidamb> /yraciflua4 ,x is q a ?ick transp>5t liquid1 light yell[1 gradually becom+ m & m solid & d>k] color$1 b is (t5 us$ 9 place ( ! =m]1 ?\gh its odor is less f9e4 ,,sumbul ,,root4 ,lat9--,radix ,sumbul2 ,fr5*--,s\mb\l2 ,g]man--,mos*uswurzel4 ,! ,sumbul plant 7,f]ula ,sumbul71 indig5\s to ,turke/an & adjo9+ c\ntries1 has a light br[n root cov]$ ) ?9 fibres1 :i* has a p5etrat+ odor ( musk4 ,ow+ to ?is quality x is frequ5tly employ$ 9 p]fum]y1 especially = sa*ets4 ,9 comm]ce a di/9ction is made betwe5 ,ea/ ,indian & ,bokh>ian or ,russian sumbul1 due to ! diff]5t r\tes by :i* ! article arrives4 ,! latt]1 :i* possesses ! /ronge/ odor1 probably because x rea*es ! m>ket 9 a fre%] /ate1 is ! mo/ valuable4 ,,sweet ,,almonds4 ,lat9--,amygdala dulcis2 ,fr5*--,am&es d\ces2 ,g]man--,ssse ,m&eln4 ,! almond-tree1 ,amygdalus communis1 occurs 9 two v>ieties1 undi/+ui%able by botanical *>act]i/ics4 ,"o be>s sweet1 ! o!r bitt] fruits 7comp4 ,bitt] almonds1 page #bd74 ,bo? are odorless & conta9 mu* fix$ oil4 ,! special odor ( bitt] almonds =ms only 9 consequ5ce ( ! decomposition ( a peculi> body 7amygdal971 pres5t 9 bitt] almonds1 :5 x comes 9 contact ) wat]4 ,good almonds are full1 juicy1 light br[n1 )\t wr9kles1 & h a sweet mild ta/e4 ,a rancid ta/e *>act]izes /al5ess4 ,! fix$ or express$ oil1 bo? t ( ! sweet & t ( ! bitt] almonds 7:i* are id5tical 9 ta/e1 odor1 & o!r prop]ties71 is us$ 9 p]fum]y = f9e hair oils1 o9tm5ts1 & "s f9e s(t soaps4 ,,sweet-,,flag ,,root4 ,lat9--,radix ,calami2 ,fr5*--,rac9e de glaeule2 ,g]man--,calmuswurzel4 ,! calamus root met ) 9 comm]ce is ! creep+ root-/ock ( a plant 7,acorus ,calamus71 occurr+ 9 all c\ntries ( ! nor!rn hemisph]e1 & frequ5t 9 ,european & ,am]ican swamps4 ,! root-/ock is spongy1 ab\t z ?ick z a f+]1 _m-jo9t$1 & ( a yell[i% color1 ) _m d>k /reaks & dots4 ,inside ! color is r$di%-:ite4 ,! odor is /rong & ! ta/e %>p & burn+4 ,,sweet-,,pea4 ,lat9--,la?yrus tub]osus2 ,fr5*--,pois de s5teur2 ,g]man--,platt]bs5bl!n4 ,sweet-pea fl[]s1 :i* h a v delicate odor1 yield x to ! usual solv5ts4 ,! odor be>s "s resemblance to t ( orange fl[]s1 b is r>ely us$ alone2 x is g5]ally comb9$ ) o!rs to make x m la/+4 ,,syr+a4 ,lat9--,philadelphus coron>ius2 ,fr5*--,s]+at1 ,lilac2 ,g]man--,pfeif5/rau*bl!n4 ,! :ite fl[]s ( ?is g>d5 bu% h a v pleasant odor :i* resembles t ( orange fl[]s1 9 place ( :i* x c be us$1 9 ! *eap] grades ( p]fum]y4 ,?is plant :i* fl\ri%es freely 9 our climate des]ves m att5tion by p]fum]s ?an x has hi!rto receiv$1 s9ce x appe>s to furni% an excell5t sub/itute = ! exp5sive oil ( orange fl[]s1 z above /at$1 9 *eap p]fumes4 ,,?yme4 ,lat9--,?ymus ,s]pyllum2 ,fr5*--,?ym2 ,g]man--,?ymian4 ,?is well-kn[n aromatic plant1 :i* gr[s mo/ luxuriantly on a calc>e\s soil1 has an odor :i* is n unpleasant b is 9 great] dem& = liqueurs ?an = p]fumes4 ,"h & !re1 h[ev]1 x is employ$ = sc5t+ soap4 ,common ?yme1 ,?ymus vulg>is1 is us$ = ! same purposes4 ,"u ! "n ( ,oil ( ,?yme1 9 ! ,engli% & ,am]ican m>ket1 is g5]ally und]/ood ! oil ( ,?ymus vulg>is1 :i* is l>gely di/ill$ 9 ! ,s\? ( ,france4 ,?is oil is commonly misnam$ ,oil ( ,origanum4 ,,tolu ,,balsam4 ,lat9--,balsamum tolutanum2 ,fr5*--,beaume de ,tolu2 ,g]man--,tolubalsam4 ,?is balsam is d]iv$ f a tree indig5\s to ! nor!rn portion ( ,s\? ,am]ica1 ,toluif]a ,balsamum1 belong+ to ! ,ord] ( ,legum9os4 ,! balsam1 :i* is obta9$ by incisions into ! b>k ( ^! trees1 is at fir/ fluid1 b becomes firm 9 ! air ow+ to rapid res9ification2 9 comm]ce x appe>s 9 a viscid =m rang+ f t ( ,v5ice turp5t9e to t ( colophony4 ,its color v>ies f honey-yell[ to r$di%-br[n2 ! ta/e is at fir/ sweet1 !n %>p1 x s(t5s "u ! heat ( ! h&1 & :5 w>m$ or spr9kl$ 9 p[d] =m on gl[+ coals x diffuses a v pleasant odor recall+ t ( ,p]u balsam or vanilla4 ,x %>es ) /orax & ,p]u balsam ! valuable prop]ty ( fix+ volatile odors & is (t5 employ$ = ?is purpose1 b is also frequ5tly us$ alone 9 fumigat+ p[d]s1 too? p[d]s1 etc4 ,adult]ation ( ,tolu balsam ) ,v5ice turp5t9e or colophony is n r>ely met )4 ,,tonka ,,beans4 ,lat9--,fab ,tonk2 ,fr5*--,fves de ,tonka2 ,g]man--,tonkabohn51 ,tonkasam54 ,! ,s\? ,am]ican tonka tree1 ,dipt]yx odorata1 be>s almond-%ap$ drupes almo/ z long z ! f+]1 :i* conta9 se$s two to f\r c5timetres 9 l5g?1 ! s-call$ tonka beans4 ,^! occur 9 ,european comm]ce 9 two sorts1 ! s-call$ ,dut* & ,engli% tonka beans2 ! =m] are l>ge1 full1 cov]$ ext]nally ) a fold$ br[n to black sk91 & :ite inside4 ,! latt] are b>ely two-?irds ! size ( ! =m]1 almo/ black1 & less glossy4 ,! odor ( ! tonka bean is due to a volatile cry/all9e sub/ance1 c\m>91 :i* (t5 lies on ! surface & 9 ! wr9kles ( ! bean 9 ! =m ( delicate1 brilliant cry/all9e ne$les4 ,c\m>9 exi/s also 9 _m o!r plants1 = in/ance1 9 sweet woodruff 7,asp]ula odorata71 de]-tongue 7,liatris odoratissima71 etc4 ,,tub]ose4 ,lat9--,polian?us tub]osa2 ,fr5*--,tubrose2 ,g]man--,tub]ose4 ,?is beautiful & v fragrant plant is frequ5tly cultivat$ 9 ,s\!rn ,france2 its pleasant odor1 h[ev]1 ow+ to its great volatility1 c nev] be us$ pure1 b mu/ always be fix$ ) "o ( ! above-m5tion$ balsams4 ,z has be5 /at$ 9 connection ) sev]al aromatic plants1 tub]ose c\ld be gr[n 9 our s\!rn ,/ates ) advantage = ! extraction ( its odor4 ,,vanilla4 ,lat9--,vanilla aromatica1 ,vanilla planifolia2 ,fr5*--,vanille2 ,g]man--,vanille4 ,! vanilla1 :i* may ju/ly be call$ a k+ among aromatic plants1 is a climb+ or*id indig5\s to tropical ,am]ica4 ,x is cultivat$ on a mo/ ext5sive scale on ! isl&s ( ,reunion & ,mauritius2 l>gely also 9 ,mexico1 & 9 "s o!r c\ntries4 ,! agreeable odor is pres5t 9 ! fruit4 ,^! =m ?ree-lob$ capsules ab\t ! l5g? ( a lead p5cil & ! ?ickness ( a quill4 ,ext]nally !y are glossy br[n1 h a fatty feel1 & %[ 9 ! depression a :ite p[d] :i* appe>s cry/all9e "u a l5s4 ,int]nally good fre% vanilla is s oily t x /a9s ! f+]s on be+ cru%$ & is fill$ ) num]\s %9+ se$s ! size ( a small p9's head4 ,^! prop]ties1 toge!r ) ! plump appe>ance & great weight1 m>k good qualities4 ,old vanilla1 ^: odor is fa9t] & less fragrant1 may be recogniz$ by its wr9kl$ surface1 ! abs5ce ( ! :ite du/1 ! slight weight1 & ! b5t ends ( ! capsules4 ,fraudul5t deal]s endeavor to give su* old goods a fre%] appe>ance by coat+ !m ) almond oil or ,p]u balsam4 8,vanilla de ,leg0 is recogniz$ z ! fir/ quality ( ,mexican vanilla4 ,l mo/ odors1 t ( vanilla does n become pleasant until x is suffici5tly dilut$4 ,,v]b5a4 ,lat9--,v]b5a triphylla1 ,aloysia citriodora2 ,fr5*--,v]ve9e2 ,g]man--,v]b5akraut4 ,! leaves ( ?is ,p]uvian plant1 especially on be+ rubb$ betwe5 ! f+]s1 exhale a v pleasant odor :i* is due to an ess5tial oil4 ,! odor resembles t ( f9e citrons1 or r t ( lemon grass2 h5ce ^! two odors are frequ5tly mi/ak5 = ea* o!r4 ,ow+ to ! high price ( true oil ( v]b5a1 all ! p]fumes sold "u ?is "n are prep>$ f oil ( lemon grass 7see "u ,citronella7 & o!r ess5tial oils4 ,,vetiv]4 ,lat9--,&ropogon muricatus2 ,fr5*--,vtyv]2 ,g]man--,vetiv]wurzel4 ,vetiv]1 also call$ cuscus1 & sometimes iw>ankusa 7?\gh ?is is m prop]ly ! "n ( ,&ropogon lanif]2 see above1 "u ,citronella71 is ! fibr\s root-/ock ( a grass indig5\s to ,india1 :]e fragrant mats are wov5 f x4 ,! odor ( ! root some:at resembles t ( santal wood1 & is us$ p>tly alone1 p>tly = fix+ volatile p]fumes4 ,%av+s ( ! root are frequ5tly employ$ = fill+ sa*et bags4 ,,violet4 ,lat9--,viola odorata2 ,fr5*--,violette2 ,g]man--,veil*5bl!n4 ,! wond]ful fragrance ( ! ,m>* violet is due to an ess5tial oil :i* x is1 h[ev]1 difficult to extract4 ,= ?is reason g5u9e p]fume ( violets1 really prep>$ f ! fl[]s1 is among ! mo/ exp5sive odors1 & ! high-pric$ s-call$ violet p]fumes are g5]ally mixtures ( o!r f9e odors1 :ile ! *eap] grades are made f orris root4 ,,volkam]ia4 ,?is plant1 ,volkam]ia in]mis1 (t5 cultivat$ 9 cons]vatories1 has a v agreeable odor4 ,! p]fume call$ by ?is "n1 h[ev]1 is n obta9$ f ! plant1 b is produc$ by ! mixture ( sev]al aromatic extracts f o!r plants4 ,,wallfl[]4 ,lat9--,*eiran?us ,*eiri2 ,fr5*--,gir(l2 ,g]man--,levkoj5bl!n1 ,goldlack4 ,! wallfl[]1 a well-kn[n bi5nial g>d5 plant belong+ to ! ,ord] ( ,crucif]1 accord+ to rec5t exp]im5ts yields a v f9e odor to c]ta9 sub/ances & may be employ$ 9 ! manufacture ( q sup]ior p]fumes4 ,! prep>ations usually sold z wallfl[]1 h[ev]1 are n made f ! fl[]s ( ?is plant1 b are mixtures ( diff]5t odors4 ,,w9t]gre54 ,lat9--,gaul!ria procumb5s2 ,fr5*--,gaul?rie2 ,g]man--,w9t]grnbltt]4 ,?is h]bace\s plant1 indig5\s to ,nor? ,am]ica1 especially ,canada & ! ,nor!rn & ,middle ,unit$ ,/ates1 :]e x gr[s wild 9 l>ge quantities1 has a v pleasant odor due to an ess5tial oil & a comp\nd e!r :i* c also be produc$ artificially4 ,! odor ( w9t]gre5 s]ves *iefly = sc5t+ f9e soaps4 ,,ylang-,,ylang4 ,?is plant1 ,unona odoratissima1 indig5\s to ! ,philipp9e ,isl&s1 conta9s an exce$+ly fragrant oil4 ,x is br\ght into comm]ce f ,manilla4 99 99 99 99 99 ,ow+ to climatic relations1 x is impossible = ! p]fum] to procure all ! above-enum]at$ sub/ances 9 ! fre% /ate2 _m ( !m he is =c$ to pur*ase ?r\gh ! drug trade1 & he %\ld be> 9 m9d to give ! pref]5ce always to ! fre%e/ obta9able goods4 ,at times x is n possible to utilize ! mat]ials at once = ! extraction ( ! odors & !y mu/ be kept = "s "t4 ,! vegetable sub/ances %\ld always be /or$ 9 an airy1 n ov] dry room2 & ! mat]ial %\ld be (t5 inspect$4 ,if a trace ( m\ld9ess %[s itself1 ! mat]ial mu/ be work$ at once1 s9ce1 if ! m\ld is all[$ to g on1 ! fragrance w suff] & may be de/roy$ altoge!r4 ,! aromatic sub/ances "h enum]at$ are ^? :i* h actually f\nd g5]al employm5t 9 p]fum]y2 b ! li/ is n complete1 s9ce e aromatic plant c be us$ = ! extraction ( its odor4 ,( c\rse1 ?is is connect$ ) "s difficulties1 b ev5 9 ! pres5t /ate ( our k !y c all be ov]come4 ,:5 a new odor has be5 prep>$1 ! art ( ! p]fum] consi/s 9 asc]ta9+ by _m exp]im5ts ^? sub/ances :i* h>monize ) x2 = ) few exceptions ! f9e/ grades ( p]fumes are n s+le odors b comb9ations ( sev]al :i* are 9 accord4 ,ev5 among our dome/ic plants !re are num]\s f9ds to be made by ! p]fum]1 & 9 ?is respect we ref] p>ticul>ly to "s v fragrant k9ds ( or*ids 9 our woods & to ! delightful odor ( ! lily ( ! valley4 ,z to ! latt]1 a p]fume is met ) 9 comm]ce "u ?is "n1 b its odor be>s no resemblance to t ( ! fl[]4 ,a few facts appe> to u ( especial importance4 ,9 practical p]fum]y _m ( ! plants :i* are easily obta9able 9 l>ge quantities1 su* z ! fl[]s ( clov] & trefoil1 ! primrose1 ! rock-rose 7,daphne ,cneorum71 dame's-violet 7,hesp]is matronalis71 & o!rs above nam$1 h nev] be5 employ$4 ,z an actual curiosity we may /ate t !re is ?us f> no p]fume conta9+ ! delightful odor pres5t 9 ! fl[]s ( ! l9d5-tree1 ( ! ,rob9ia 7errone\sly call$ ,acacia71 ( ! lilac1 etc41 at lea/ n made f ! plants "h nam$4 ,,*apt] ,v4 ,,! ,,animal ,,sub/ances ,,us$ ,,9 ,,p]fum]y4 ,:ile ! vegetable k+dom (f]s u an abundance ( aromatic odors ! end ( :i* x is impossible to =esee1 ! animal k+dom conta9s absolutely no sub/ance :i* may be call$ sweet-sc5t$ 9 ! /rict s5se ( ! t]m4 ,if we f9d nev]!less a few animal sub/ances g5]ally us$ 9 p]fum]y1 !y %\ld be consid]$ r z excell5t means = fix+ subtle vegetable odors ?an z fragrant bodies 9 ! true s5se4 ,by !mselves1 inde$1 !y h an odor1 b to mo/ p]sons x is n agreeable ev5 if prop]ly dilut$4 ,?us f> only five sub/ances ( animal orig9 are employ$ 9 p]fum]y1 namely3 amb]gris1 ca/or1 hyraceum1 musk1 & civet4 ,,amb]gris4 ,lat9--,ambra grisea2 ,fr5*--,ambregris2 ,g]man--,ambra4 ,?is is a sub/ance ^: orig9 is /ill d\btful2 _m facts indicate t x is a secretion--:e!r normal or morbid may be left undecid$--( ! l>ge/ liv+ mammal1 namely1 ( ! pot-:ale 7,physet] macrocephalus74 ,amb]gris is f\nd 9 ! inte/9es ( ?is animal or1 m frequ5tly1 float+ ab\t 9 ! sea2 ! %ores ( ! cont95ts bord]+ ! ,indian ,ocean furni% ! l>ge/ am\nt ( ?is peculi> sub/ance4 ,amb]gris is a grayi%-:ite fatty sub/ance :i* occurs 9 comm]ce 9 pieces ( v>i\s sizes--^? z l>ge z a fi/ are r>e--( a p5etrat+1 decid$ly disagreeable odor4 ,x is soluble 9 alcohol1 & :5 prop]ly dilut$ ! odor becomes pleasant & x is s p]man5t t a piece ( l95 moi/5$ ) x smells ( x ev5 aft] be+ wa%$ ) soap4 ,by itself1 amb]gris is n mu* us$2 x f9ds its *ief application 9 comb9ation ) o!r odors or z an addition to "s p]fumes 9 ord] to make !m la/+4 ,,ca/or4 ,lat9--,ca/oreum2 ,fr5*--,ca/oreum2 ,g]man--,ca/oreum4 ,?is is a secretion ( ! beav] 7,ca/or fib]72 x accumulates 9 two pe>-%ap$ bags on ! abdom5 ( ! animal1 bo? male & female4 ,! hunt]s remove ^! bags f ! body ( ! dead animal & 9 ?is =m !y are br\ght into comm]ce4 ,^! sacs are ! l5g? ( a f+]1 at ! ?icke/ po9t ! diamet] ( a ?umb1 & conta9 a greasy mass ( yell[i%-br[n1 r$di%-br[n1 or blacki% color1 accord+ to ! n\ri%m5t ( ! animal4 ,?is mass con/itutes ca/or2 x has a /rong1 disagreeable odor1 a bitt]1 balsamic ta/e1 becomes s(t :5 heat$1 is combu/ible1 & almo/ entirely soluble 9 alcohol4 ,x is probable t ?is secretion 9 its composition has "s relation to ! n\ri%m5t ( ! beav]s :i* fe$ by pref]5ce on res9\s vegetable sub/ances4 ,9 comm]ce ,canadian & ,sib]ian ca/or are di/+ui%$2 ! latt] is m valuable & has almo/ disappe>$ f ! m>ket4 ,x possesses a peculi> t>ry1 ,russian-lea!r odor1 probably due to a sub/ance pres5t 9 bir* b>k1 ^u :i* ! ,sib]ian animals fe$ almo/ exclusively4 ,canadian ca/or has an odor m ne>ly resembl+ p9e res94 ,9 p]fum]y ca/or is r>ely us$1 usually only = fix+ o!r odors4 ,,hyraceum4 ,! sub/ance occurr+ 9 comm]ce "u ?is "n1 ! excrem5t ( an animal f\nd 9 ,capel&1 ! rock badg] or rock rabbit 7,hyrax cap5sis71 is v simil> 9 its prop]ties to ca/or1 & accord+ to comp>ative exp]im5ts made by u c be us$ 9 place ( ! latt]4 ,,musk4 ,lat9--,mos*us2 ,fr5*--,musc2 ,g]man--,mos*us4 ,( animal sub/ances1 musk is mo/ frequ5tly us$ 9 p]fum]y1 & possesses ! mo/ agreeable odor ( !m all4 ,moreov]1 ! odor ( musk is ! mo/ int5se t we "k1 actually impond]able quantities ( x be+ suffici5t to imp>t to a l>ge body ( air ! /rong odor ( musk4 ,?is sub/ance is d]iv$ f a de] :i* atta9s ! size ( a small goat &1 l ! *amois ( ! ,alps1 lives on ! highe/ m\nta9s ( ! ,himalayas4 ,only ! male animal 7,mos*us mos*if]us7 produces musk1 :i* is secret$ 9 a sac or r gl& ne> ! sexual organ4 ,musk be+ subject to ! wor/ adult]ations ow+ to its high price1 we app5d a description ( ! sub/ance z well z ( ! sac or bag 9 :i* x appe>s 9 comm]ce4 ,! musk bag cut by ! hunt] f ! body ( ! animal has ! size & %ape ( half a walnut4 ,on ! side by :i* x 0 atta*$ to ! body ( ! animal x is membran\s & ne>ly smoo?2 on ! ext]nal surface x is m or less hemisph]ical & cov]$ ) light br[n or d>k br[n hair1 accord+ to ! season at :i* ! animal 0 kill$4 ,! hair assumes a circul> arrangem5t ar\nd an op5+ situat$ 9 ! c5tre ( ! bag4 ,?is op5+1 ! eff]5t duct ( ! gl&1 is =m$ by a r+-%ap$ muscle :i* yields to ! pressure ( a po9t$ object & p]mits ! introduction ( ! po9t ( ! f+]4 ,int]nally ! musk bag consi/s ( sev]al lay]s ( membrane :i* surr\nd ! musk itself4 ,x is probable t ! musk is secret$ by ^! membranes1 = :5 ! animal is dissect$1 no direct communication ( ! musk gl& ) ! body c be detect$4 ,x has be5 surmis$ t ! secretion ( musk be>s "s relation to ! food2 at lea/ x has be5 ass]t$ t ! animals eat1 among o!r ?+s1 sumbul root ) great avidity2 & ?is root1 x w be rememb]$1 has a v int5se odor ( musk4 ,h[ev]1 ?\gh ?is appe>s probable at fir/ sight1 x is contradict$ by ! fact t ! females & ! "y males likewise eat ! root )\t manife/+ any odor ( musk nor d !y secrete ! sub/ance1 :ile ! old] males produce x ev5 :5 !y are f$ ) hay only4 ,ano!r fact is ( int]e/1 namely1 t o!r rum9ants1 too1 = in/ance1 cattle1 diffuse a m>k$ ?\gh fa9t odor ( musk :i* occurs also 9 _! excrem5ts1 exactly z 9 ! case ( ! musk de]4 ,alligators likewise produce a musk-l sub/ance :i* has actually be5 made use ( 9 place ( musk = co>s] purposes4 ,! musk pres5t 9 ! gl&s diff]s 9 appe>ance ) ! season & ! age ( ! animal4 ,musk de]s kill$ 9 spr+ h 9 _! musk bag an unctu\s s(t mass ( a r$di%-br[n color ) ! /ronge/ odor2 at o!r seasons ! mass is d>k] 9 color1 almo/ black1 & granul>2 ! size ( ! gra9s ranges f t ( a millet-se$ to t ( a l>ge pea4 ,t ! secretion ( musk belongs to ! sexual functions appe>s probable f ! fact t x c be f\nd only 9 ! bags ( males m ?an two ye>s old2 t ( y\ng] animals conta9s only a sub/ance ( a milky consi/5ce1 ^: odor has no resemblance to t ( musk4 ,! quantity ( musk pres5t 9 a bag v>ies ) ! season & ! age ( ! animal2 ! smalle/ quantity may be assum$ at ab\t six dra*ms1 ?\gh "s bags conta9 z mu* z "o & a half ounces4 ,! hunt]s dry ! bags ei!r on hot /ones or 9 ! air1 or !y dip !m into hot oil4 ,9 comm]ce musk occurs ei!r 9 bags "u ! "n mos*us 9 vesicis1 8musk 9 pods10 or free1 mos*us 9 granis1 mos*us ex vesicis1 8gra9 musk40 ,accord+ to its orig9 f\r sorts are di/+ui%$3 ,*9ese or ,tonqu9 musk1 ,sib]ian or ,russian musk1 ,assam or ,b5gal musk1 & f9ally ,bokh>ian musk4 ,! latt] two v>ieties1 h[ev]1 r>ely rea* ?is m>ket4 ,*9ese musk 7,tonqu9 or ,?ibet musk7 occurs 9 small boxes conta9+ tw5ty to ?irty bags1 ea* wrapp$ 9 ,*9ese tissue pap]2 on :i* ,*9ese *>act]s are pr9t$4 ,?is is consid]$ ! be/ quality4 ,assam musk occurs 9 boxes l9$ ) t9 :i* conta9 z _m z two hundr$ or m bags2 its value is ab\t two-?irds t ( ! =m]4 ,russian musk is pack$ 9 v>i\s ways & is wor? ab\t "o-f\r? t ( ! ,*9ese2 a special v>iety ( x1 ( a weak] & r ur9\s odor1 is kn[n z ,cab>d9e musk2 ( lea/ value is ,bokh>ian musk :i* is ( a grayi% black color1 ) a fa9t odor4 ,musk is adult]at$ 9 an almo/ incr$ible mann]2 at times s-call$ musk bags are met ) :i* are artificially con/ruct$ ( animal membranes & fill$ ) dri$ blood1 e>?1 etc41 & slightly sc5t$ ) g5u9e musk4 ,b ev5 ! g5u9e musk bags are (t5 tamp]$ )2 musk be+ remov$ f ! op5+ & ! space fill$ ) e>?1 dri$ blood1 animal excrem5t1 or p]haps pieces ( copp] & lead4 ,pure musk reacts q *>act]i/ically t[>d cau/ic alkalies su* z cau/ic pota% & soda or solution ( ammonia1 & ^! sub/ances are us$ = te/+ ! purity ( musk4 ,if a dilute alkal9e solution is p\r$ ov] musk1 a m>k$ increase ( ! odor is obs]v$ aft] a %ort "t2 if ! alkal9e solution is conc5trat$ or hot1 ! odor ( musk disappe>s completely & ! fluid develops ! cau/ic odor ( pure ammonia4 ,hot wat] dissolves ab\t eighty p] c5t ( ! total weight ( musk2 /rong alcohol dissolves ab\t "o-t5? ( x2 :5 heat$ 9 an op5 porcela9 capsule1 musk burns ) a disgu/+ empyreumatic odor & leaves a consid]able am\nt ( a%1 ab\t "o-t5? ( its weight4 ,besides ! above-nam$ sub/ances :i* de/roy ! musk odor by ! decomposition ( ! aromatic con/itu5t1 !re are o!r bodies1 ^: action we d n "k at pres5t1 :i* h ! peculi> prop]ty ( completely ext+ui%+ ?is mo/ p5etrat+ ( all odors3 to deodorize a vessel completely :i* has conta9$ musk1 x is suffici5t to rub 9 x "s bitt] almonds moi/5$ ) wat] or "s camphor ) alcohol4 ,9 an extremely dilute condition musk is us$ = p]fum+ ! f9e/ soaps & sa*ets1 & ev5 9 ! manufacture ( ! mo/ exp5sive & be/ p]fumes1 ow+ to its prop]ty ( imp>t+ p]man5ce to v volatile odors4 ,9 ! la/-m5tion$ class1 h[ev]1 ! quantity ( musk mu/ always be s small t its pres5ce is n di/9ctly obs]v$1 s9ce _m p]sons f9d ! pure odor ( musk v disagreeable1 :ile !y praise ! fragrance ( su* p]fumes z conta9 an am\nt ( ?is sub/ance too small to be p]ceiv$ by ! olfactory n]ves4 ,,civet4 ,lat9--,civetta2 ,fr5*--,civette2 ,g]man--,zibe?4 ,?is sub/ance be>s "s resemblance to musk ) ref]5ce to its d]ivation & ! rle x plays 9 ! life ( ! animal f :i* x is obta9$4 ,! ,viv]rid1 a class ( c>nivora relat$ to ! cats & weasels1 f\nd 9 ,asia & ,africa1 furni% ?is sub/ance4 ,x is obta9$ *iefly f ! civet cat 7,viv]ra ,civetta7 & ! musk rat 7,viv]ra ,zibe?a7 :i* are kept 9 captivity = ! purpose ( ab/ract+ f !m f "t to "t ! civet :i* is always =m$ anew4 ,civet is ! secretion ( a d\ble gl& pres5t bo? 9 ! male & ! female ne> ! sexual organs4 ,fre% civet is a :iti%-yell[ mass ( ! consi/5ce ( butt] or fat1 & becomes ?ick] & d>k] on exposure to ! air4 ,simil> to musk1 x has a /rong odor :i* becomes pleasant on be+ dilut$ & is us$ bo? alone & = fix+ o!r odors4 ,,*apt] ,,vi4 ,,! ,,*emical ,,products ,,us$ ,,9 ,,p]fum]y4 ,9 ! manufacture ( p]fum]y a consid]able numb] ( *emical products f9d application2 9 ?is place1 h[ev]1 we %all describe only ^? :i* are us$ v frequ5tly & g5]ally1 & discuss ! *>act]i/ics ( ^? employ$ m r>ely 9 connection ) ! articles ( p]fum]y into :i* !y ent]4 ,accord+ to _! application we may divide ^! sub/ances into sev]al gr\ps1 namely3 ,a4 ,*emicals :i*1 )\t !mselves s]v+ z p]fumes1 are us$ exclusively = ! extraction ( odors4 ,b4 ,*emicals :i*1 :ile n fragrant1 are frequ5tly employ$ 9 ! prep>ation ( p]fumes4 ,"u ?is head we h includ$ also ^? sub/ances :i* are n /rictly *emical products1 b orig9ally come f ! animal or vegetable k+dom1 su* z fats1 sp]maceti1 & wax1 yet _c be us$ 9 p]fum]y unless !y h und]gone a process ( *emical purification4 ,c4 ,*emical products us$ = color+ p]fumes1 s-call$ dye-/uffs4 ,! great] portion ( ! sub/ances to be "h describ$ x w h>dly be ! prov9ce ( ! p]fum] to prep>e himself1 z !y are furni%$ by *emical factories at l[ prices2 b "s ( !m--= in/ance1 sublim$1 natural b5zoic acid suitable = p]fum]y & a few o!r sub/ances--! p]fum] %\ld make himself1 9 ord] to be sure ( its g5u95ess4 ,!re=e1 :ile 9 ! =m] class x w be suffici5t to describe _! prop]ties to enable ! manufactur] to di/+ui% good quality f bad1 ! latt] class mu/ be discuss$ at great] l5g?4 ,a4 ,*emicals us$ = ! ,extraction ( ,aromatic ,sub/ances4 ,= ! extraction ( aromatic sub/ances f plants a numb] ( bodies are us$ :i* possess great solv5t p[] = ess5tial oils1 & are besides v volatile1 or h a l[ boil+-po9t4 ,^! are p>ticul>ly e!r1 *lor(orm1 petroleum e!r1 & bisulphide ( c>bon4 ,,e!r4 ,?is liquid1 9 comm]ce also call$ sulphuric e!r1 is made 9 l>ge quantities 9 *emical laboratories by ! di/illation ( alcohol ) sulphuric acid1 foll[$ by a second di/illation or rectification4 ,:5 pure1 e!r =ms a mobile1 ?91 /rong-smell+1 & inflammable liquid :i* :5 inhal$ produces ins5sibility1 = :i* reason x is us$ z an an/hetic 9 surg]y4 ,its specific gravity is ab\t #j4gbj :5 anhydr\s1 & its boil+-po9t #ce ,c4 7#ie ,f474 ,x =ms an excell5t solv5t = ess5tial oils1 res9s1 fats1 & simil> bodies4 ,ow+ to its great volatility1 its vapors are quickly diffus$ 9 ! air1 &1 z !y are v inflammable1 lights mu/ be kept away f a bottle conta9+ ?is sub/ance4 ,! same rem>k applies to mo/ ( ! sub/ances to be pres5tly describ$4 ,,*lor(orm is prep>$ by ! di/illation ( *lor9at$ lime1 alcohol1 & wat]1 acetone be+ m rec5tly sub/itut$ = ! alcohol1 foll[$ by rectification ( ! product4 ,:5 inhal$ x produces ins5sibility l e!r4 ,x has a pleasant odor & sweet ta/e4 ,its specific gravity is ab\t #a4di & its boil+-po9t #fa ,c4 7#adb ,f474 ,ow+ to its great solv5t p[] & l[ boil+-po9t1 *lor(orm is l>gely us$ = ! extraction ( aromatic vegetable sub/ances2 x does n take fire directly 9 ! air4 ,,petroleum ,,e!r4 ,petroleum1 :i* is br\ght into comm]ce 9 imm5se quantities1 especially f ,p5nsylvania1 = illum9at+ purposes1 _c be us$ 9 its crude /ate1 b requires rectification4 ,petroleum z x issues f ! e>? consi/s ( v>i\s hydroc>bons mix$ toge!r1 "s ( :i* h v l[ boil+-po9ts1 s t _! vapors readily take fire & w\ld make ! use ( petroleum 9 lamps dang]\s4 ,petroleum1 !re=e1 is heat$ 9 l>ge app>atuses to ab\t #gj or #hj ,c4 7#aeh to #agf ,f471 :5 ! m volatile products pass ov]1 & ! petroleum = illum9at+ purposes rema9s 9 ! /ills4 ,a c]ta9 fraction ( ! volatile di/illate1 ! s-call$ petroleum e!r1 is l>gely us$ 9 ! manufacture ( v>ni%es4 ,ow+ to its great solv5t p[] = aromatic vegetable sub/ances & its l[ price1 petroleum e!r has become q an important body = ! extraction ( p]fumes1 :i* w be fur!r discuss$ h]eaft]4 ,good petroleum e!r is colorless1 has a peculi>1 n unpleasant odor & a boil+-po9t betwe5 #ej & #ee ,c4 7#aab & #aca ,f474 ,,b5z9 is a common "n = ano!r fraction ( ! volatile di/illate f petroleum1 viz41 t :i* boils betwe5 #ej & #fj;,c4 7#abb to #adj ,f47 & has a spec4 grav4 ( #j4fgj to #j4fge4 ,?is liquid1 :i* is also us$ z a volatile solv5t = ! extraction ( odor\s sub/ances1 mu/ n be conf\nd$ ) ,b5z5e or ,b5zol1 a di/illate f coal t>1 boil+ at ab\t #hj ,c4 7#agf ,f47 & hav+ a spec4 grav4 ( #j4hgh4 ,! latt] is n us$ = ! extraction ( p]fumes4 ,,bisulphide ,,( ,,c>bon4 ,?is is made by conduct+ vapors ( sulphur ov] gl[+ *>coal or coke4 ,! vapors ( bisulphide ( c>bon ?us =m$ are l$ into vessels fill$ ) ice or ice-cold wat]1 :]e !y cond5se4 ,bisulphide ( c>bon is a colorless liquid1 heavi] ?an wat] & v refractive4 ,x is inflammable1 & possesses a peculi> odor :i* is n disagreeable if ! liquid has be5 ?or\ghly purifi$4 ,its boil+-po9t is ab\t #de ,c4 7#aac ,f47 & x has great solv5t p[]4 ,at ! pres5t "t1 ! m>ket af=ds bisulphide ( c>bon ( a high degree ( purity4 ,"s manufactur]s :o prep>e _! odors by extraction1 may f9d x advantage\s to make also ! bisulphide ( c>bon necess>y = x1 & ?is is be/ done 9 ,gr>d's app>atus 7,fig4 #a74 ,x consi/s ( a ca/-iron cyl9d] a1 two metres high & "o metre 9 diamet]4 ,?is cyl9d] is heat$ on ! out] surface 9 an ov51 & two tubes1 c & d1 are atta*$ to x4 ,tube d is connect$ by e ) ! hemisph]ical vessel b :i* is connect$ by ! tube i ) ! cond5s] mlk4 ,! cond5s] is =m$ ( ?ree cyl9d]s made ( %eet z9c :i* are surr\nd$ ) cold wat]4 ,! cond5s$ liquid escapes into ! vessel p1 :ile ! gase\s products pass ?r\gh n into ! *imney4 ,! cyl9d] a is fill$ ) ab\t #a1ejj p\nds ( *>coal or coke 9 small pieces1 aft] :i* x is clos$ & all tubes are c>efully lut$ ) clay2 a is !n heat$ to a /rong r$ heat & at int]vals ( ?ree m9utes #c p\nds ( sulphur are ?r[n 9 ?r\gh c4 ,9 tw5ty-f\r h\rs1 by ! use ( #dgh p\nds ( sulphur1 #efh p\nds ( crude bisulphide ( c>bon are obta9$2 a portion ( ! sulphur di/ils ov] uncomb9$ into ! vessel b4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #a4 ,! crude bisulphide ( c>bon conta9s ab\t twelve p] c5t ( sulphur & o!r comb9ations 9 solution & is r$i/ill$ at exactly #dh ,c4 7#aah4d ,f47 9 a /eam-heat$ app>atus ) a long exit tube cool$ ) ice bel[ & wat] above4 ,9 ord] to obta9 ! bisulphide ( c>bon absolutely pure1 :i* is ess5tial to r5d] x suitable = extraction1 x is aga9 di/ill$ at ! same temp]ature1 ) ! addition ( two p] c5t ( palm oil4 ,z ! vapors ( bisulphide ( c>bon are injuri\s to ! organism1 ! vessels conta9+ x mu/ always be kept well clos$4 ,b4 ,*emical ,products us$ = ! ,prep>ation ( ,p]fumes4 ,among all ! sub/ances belong+ "u ?is head1 !re is "o :i* plays a prom95t "p 9 ! manufacture ( mo/ p]fumes4 ,9 h&k]*ief p]fumes x is "o ( ! mo/ important sub/ances1 z x =ms n only ! greate/ bulk1 b ! p]fection ( ! p]fume dep5ds ^u its quality4 ,?is sub/ance is-- ,,alcohol1 also call$ _s ( w9e2 ,fr5*1 esprit de v92 ! well-kn[n combu/ible liquid =m$ by ! alcoholic f]m5tation ( sug>1 :i* is made on a l>ge scale 9 ext5sive di/ill]ies4 ,alcohol is a ?91 mobile liquid ) an aromatic odor4 ,! usual 8/rong0 alcohol ( ! m>ket conta9s ab\t n9ety-f\r p] c5t ( absolute alcohol by volume4 ,?is has a specific gravity ( #jhbj4 ,its boil+-po9t is #ghb ,c4 7#agbdj ,f471 & x congeals at a v l[ temp]ature1 bel[ -#ajj ,c4 ,alcohol possesses great solv5t p[] = res9s1 balsams1 & ess5tial oils4 ,^! prop]ties1 h[ev]1 belong only to ! comm]cial /rong] or s-call$ 8druggi/s' alcohol10 & m p>ticul>ly to a v pure quality ( x1 z free z possible f fusel-oil comp\nds1 kn[n z cologne _s4 ,z absolute alcohol is also necess>y = ! purposes ( p]fum]y1 we %all briefly describe its prep>ation4 ,9 ord] to make absolute alcohol1 sulphate ( copp] is heat$ 9 a retort until x has *ang$ into a :ite p[d]4 ,aft] ! p[d] has cool$ 9 ! cov]$ retort1 x is at once introduc$ into a l>ge glass bottle2 ov] x is p\r$ ! /ronge/ obta9able alcohol 7#if ,tralles7 :i* mu/ be free f fusel oil2 !n ! bottle is clos$ air-tight & repeat$ly %ak54 ,! sulphate ( copp] :i* has lo/ its wat] ( cry/allization by ! heat reabsorbs x f ! alcohol & aga9 becomes blue & cry/all9e4 ,g5]ally f\r p\nds ( sulphate ( copp] are us$ = t5 qu>ts ( alcohol2 :5 :ite burnt sulphate ( copp] aft] long contact ) alcohol /ill rema9s :ite1 ! alcohol is prov$ to be practically anhydr\s 7x may /ill conta9 ab\t two p] c5t ( wat]74 ,l>g] quantities ( absolute alcohol are made 9 a copp] /ill conta9+ fus$ anhydr\s *loride ( calcium 9 small pieces4 ,! app>atus is clos$ & alcohol ( #id to #ie is p\r$ 9 ?r\gh a tubulure4 ,! mixture (t5 gr[s s w>m t ! alcohol beg9s to pass ov]1 s t b little heat ne$ be appli$ to make ! absolute alcohol di/il ov]4 ,absolute alcohol obta9$ 9 ?is way--= by repeat$ di/illation we get at mo/ an alcohol ( #if--;ab/racts wat] f ! air ) avidity2 h5ce x mu/ be pres]v$ 9 air-tight vessels :i* %\ld conta9 a small am\nt ( anhydr\s sulphate ( copp]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #b4 ,/rong comm]cial alcohol conta9s v>y+ am\nts ( wat]--f f\r to tw5ty p>ts by volume 7#if to #hj alcohol72 at ! pres5t "t1 h[ev]1 x is always cu/om>y = deal]s 9 ?is c\ntry to supply ! (fic9al alcohol ( #id1 :5 8/rong alcohol0 is call$ =4 ,its /r5g? is measur$ by an areomet] :i* s9ks 9 proportion to ! purity ( ! alcohol2 ! alcoholomet] ( ,tralles or volumet] %[s at once on its scale h[ _m p>ts by volume ( absolute alcohol 7volume p] c5t7 are conta9$ 9 #ajj volumes ( alcohol4 ,! adjo9+ figure 7,fig4 #b7 %[s ,tralles' alcoholomet]1 ) ! vessel 9 :i* ! te/ is made4 ,! read+s ( ! in/rum5t1 h[ev]1 are correct only at a temp]ature ( #aef ,c4 7#fj ,f471 ! s-call$ normal temp]ature2 at a high] or l[] po9t !y mu/ be correct$ accord+ to ! tables app5d$4 ,at temp]atures bel[ ! normal1 ! am\nt ( alcohol is great] ?an ! areomet] indicates1 h5ce a p]c5tage mu/ be add$2 at high] temp]atures a p]c5tage mu/ be d$uct$4 ,,tables ,,= ,,f9d+ ,,! ,,true ,,p]c5tage ,,by ,,volume1 ,,at ,,! ,,normal ,,temp]ature ,,( #fj ,f41 ,,( ,,alcohol ,,( ,,any ,,/r5g?1 ,,:5 ,,te/$ ,,at ,,temp]atures ,,bel[ ,,or ,,above #fj ,f4 ,,table ,i4--,,= ,,temp]atures ,,"u #fj ,f4 ---------------------------------------- ,p] c5t ,numb] ( ( ,f4 ,degrees ,alcohol ,requir+ by ,,addition ( ,volume4 "o to ,p]c5tage4 ---------------------------------------- #ba #ed #bb #eage #bc #dgbe #bd #de #be #de #bf #de #bg #de #bh #dbge #bi #dbge #cj #dbge #ca #dbge #cb #dbge #cc #dbge #cd #dbge #ce #de #cf #de #cg #de #ch #de #ci #de #dj #de #da #dgbe #db #dgbe #dc #dgbe #dd #dgbe #de #die #df #die #dg #die #dh #die #di #die #ej #eage #ea #eage #eb #eage #ec #eage #ed #eage #ee #eage #ef #eage #eg #ed #eh #ed #ei #ed #fj #ed #fa #ed #fb #ed #fc #efbe #fd #efbe #fe #efbe #ff #efbe #fg #efbe #fh #ehe #fi #ehe #gj #ehe #ga #ehe #gb #ehe #gc #ehe #gd #fjge #ge #fjge #gf #fjge #gg #fjge #gh #fc #gi #fc #hj #fc #ha #febe #hb #febe #hc #fge #hd #fge #he #fge #hf #fge #hg #fige #hh #gb #hi #gdbe #ij #gfe #ia #ghge #ib #ha #ic #hcbe #id #hgge #ie #i #if #ide #ig #ajabe ---------------------------------------- ,,explanation4--,suppos+ an alcohol %\ld be f\nd to conta9 #dj p] c5t ( absolute alcohol by ,tralles' alcoholomet] at #de ,f4 ,! diff]5ce betwe5 #de & #fj ,f4 is #ae4 ,opposite to #dj w be f\nd ! figure #de4 ,= e #de degrees ,f4 bel[ #fj !re mu/ be add$ #a to ! alcoholic p]c5tage4 ,h5ce = #ae degrees !re mu/ be add$ #c4c degrees4 ,! alcoholic p]c5tage1 by volume1 !re=e1 is #dcc p] c5t4 ,,table ,,ii4--,,= ,,temp]atures ,,above #fj ,f4 ---------------------------------------- ,p] c5t ,numb] ( ( ,f4 ,degrees ,alcohol ,requir+ by ,,subtraction ,volume4 ( "o f ,p]c5tage4 ---------------------------------------- #ba #ehe #bb #efbe #bc #ed #bd #eage #be #die #bf #die #bg #dgbe #bh #dgbe #bi #de #cj #de #ca #de #cb #de #cc #de #cd #de #ce #de #cf #de #cg #de #ch #de #ci #de #dj #de #da #de #db #de #dc #de #dd #de #de #de #df #de #dg #dgbe #dh #dgbe #di #dgbe #ej #dgbe #ea #dgbe #eb #dgbe #ec #die #ed #die #ee #die #ef #eage #eg #eage #eh #eage #ei #eage #fj #eage #fa #eage #fb #eage #fc #eage #fd #eage #fe #eage #ff #ed #fg #ed #fh #ed #fi #efbe #gj #efbe #ga #efbe #gb #efbe #gc #efbe #gd #efbe #ge #ehe #gf #ehe #gg #ehe #gh #ehe #gi #fjge #hj #fjge #ha #fjge #hb #fjge #hc #fc #hd #fc #he #fc #hf #febe #hg #febe #hh #febe #hi #fge #ij #fige #ia #fige #ib #gdbe #ic #gdbe #id #gfe #ie #gfe #if #ha #ig #ha #ih #hcbe #ii #ide #ajj #ii -------------------------------------- ,,explanation4--,9 ?is case1 ! same calculation is p]=m$ z direct$ "u ,table ,i41 except t ! correction is to be d$uct$ in/ead ( add$4 ,aside f ! wat] pres5t 9 x1 comm]cial alcohol is nev] pure1 b always conta9s small quantities1 at times m]e traces1 ( sub/ances hav+ a peculi>1 sometimes pleasant1 sometimes disagreeable1 b inv>iably int5se odor1 :i* are kn[n z fusel oils4 ,! v>iety ( fusel oil diff]s ) ! raw mat]ial f :i* ! alcohol 0 made2 !re is a potato fusel oil 7*emically amyl alcohol71 a corn fusel oil1 a beet fusel oil1 w9e fusel oil 7nan?ic e!r71 etc4 ,fusel oils1 be+ !mselves odor\s sub/ances1 ex]t an influ5ce on ! fragrance ( ! p]fume2 h5ce x is a g5]al rule 9 p]fum]y to use only alcohol free f fusel oil2 t is1 su* f :i* ! fusel oil has be5 extract$ z f> z possible by means ( fre% *>coal4 ,s-call$ 8,cologne ,_s0 ( ! be/ quality is1 z a rule1 practically free f x4 ,/range to say1 "s ess5tial oils or aromatic sub/ances 9 g5]al1 develop _! f9e/ odors only :5 ! p]fumes are prep>$ ) an alcohol f a c]ta9 s\rce4 ,:ile ! *>coal treatm5t removes almo/ all ! fusel oil1 ! rema9+ traces suffice to act z odor\s sub/ances 9 ! true s5se ( ! t]m & to produce ) o!r aromatic bodies a h>mony ( ! odor :i* c nev] be rea*$ by ! use ( ano!r v>iety ( alcohol4 ,to give b a s+le in/ance we may /ate t all ! citron odors kn[n 9 p]fum]y develop ! f9e/ aroma only :5 dissolv$ 9 alcohol made f w9e & ! solution is !n di/ill$4 ,! _w-r5[n$ eau de ,cologne is made 9 ?is way2 ! o!r aromatic sub/ances conta9$ 9 x are add$ to ! di/illate f ! _s ( w9e & ! citron oils2 any cologne made 9 ano!r mann] or ) ano!r alcohol has a less f9e odor4 ,:ile ! citron odors require true _s ( w9e = ! developm5t ( _! full aroma1 o!r sc5ts require beet or corn alcohol to br+ out _! be/ odor4 ,jasm9e1 tub]ose1 orange fl[]s1 violet1 etc41 & all animal odors 7amb]gris1 musk1 & civet7 belong to ! latt] class4 ,= ?is rem>kable & to ! p]fum] mo/ important fact we "k no o!r explanation ?an t traces ( fusel oils pres5t ev5 9 rectifi$ alcohol take "p 9 ! g5]al impression made on ! olfactory n]ves1 act+ z true aromatic sub/ances4 ,cologne _s is exp5sive1 b ?is %\ld n be a reason = accept+ a *eap] grade1 ) :i* x w\ld be absolutely impossible to make really f9e p]fumes4 ,alcohol is also g5]ally us$ = ! direct extraction ( odor\s sub/ances f plants1 z w be se5 9 ! description ( ! processes employ$ 9 ! prep>ation ( ! s-call$ ess5ces or extracts4 ,= ^! purposes1 too1 ! be/ cologne _s only %\ld be us$1 t is1 alcohol :i* has be5 fre$ f fusel oil & r$i/ill$1 = 9 no o!r way c ! aromatic sub/ances be obta9$ 9 ! greate/ possible purity4 ,& ?is is indisp5sable = ! prep>ation ( really f9e p]fumes1 = we d n hesitate to say t ,fr5* & ,engli% p]fumes h acquir$ _! des]v$ reputation ma9ly ?r\gh ! great c>e ex]cis$ 9 ! selection ( _! raw mat]ials1 & especially ( ! alcohol us$ = extraction4 ,,alloxan4 ,?is prep>ation1 :i* is us$ 9 mak+ a f9e sk9 cosmetic1 is manufactur$ 9 *emical laboratories f uric acid heat$ ) nitric acid4 ,alloxan is a cry/all9e colorless body :i* has ! prop]ty ( gradually produc+ a r$ t9t on ! sk9 & f9ds employm5t = ?is reason4 ,,ammonia4 ,ammonia is a gas =m$ by ! decomposition ( nitrog5\s sub/ances1 b *iefly obta9$1 on a l>ge scale1 f ! s-call$ 8gas liquor0 ( gas works4 ,by itself x develops a v disagreeable odor & /imulates ! la*rymal gl&s to secretion--a fact :i* c be v]ifi$ 9 any /able4 ,a solution ( ! gas 7wat] ( ammonia2 liquor ammoni7 possesses ! same prop]ties4 ,9 p]fum]y ammonia is nev] us$ alone1 b only 9 comb9ation ) o!r odors1 namely1 9 ! manufacture ( smell+ salts 7,fr5*3 sels volatils2 ,g]man3 ,rie*salze71 :i* are mu* 9 favor 9 ,engl& & 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,= ! purposes ( ! p]fum]1 ! great] "p ( ! comm]cial ammonia is unsuitable ow+ to its t>ry odor4 ,pure ammonia is be/ prep>$ by heat+ equal p>ts ( quicklime & p[d]$ sal-ammoniac 9 a retort1 & conduct+ ! g5]at$ gas into wat] :i* dissolves x ) avidity1 "o qu>t ( wat] dissolv+ m ?an sev5 hundr$ qu>ts ( ammonia gas4 ,,c>bonate ,,( ,,ammonia1 a comb9ation ( ammonia ) c>bonic acid1 occurs 9 comm]ce 9 l>ge transp>5t lumps1 (t5 cov]$ ) a :ite du/ ( bic>bonate ( ammonia1 :i* 9 ! air cont9ually develop ammonia & !re=e always smell ( x4 ,?is comm]cial product is1 z a rule1 suffici5tly pure to be us$ 9 p]fum]y2 z to its application ! same rem>ks apply z 7 made "u ! head ( ammonia4 ,,oil ,,( ,,bitt] ,,almonds 7,,oleum ,,amygdal ,,am>74 ,?is is made f bitt] almonds1 previ\sly depriv$ ( fatty oil by pressure1 :i* are mix$ ) an equal weight ( wat] & set 9 a w>m place4 ,! amygdal9 und]goes decomposition into sug>1 hydrog5 cyanide1 & b5zoyl hydride or oil ( bitt] almonds4 ,aft] "o or two days ! mass is di/ill$2 ! di/illate be+ a colorless liquid1 conta9+1 besides oil ( bitt] almonds1 hydrog5 cyanide or prussic acid1 "o ( ! mo/ virul5t poisons1 f :i* x mu/ be fre$4 ,?is is done by %ak+ ! liquid repeat$ly ) dilute solution ( potassa1 foll[$ by agitation ) wat]4 ,pure oil ( bitt] almonds is n poison\s1 b has a v /rong n>cotic odor ( bitt] almonds1 :i*1 h[ev]1 becomes mo/ m>k$ :5 l>gely dilut$ ) wat]4 ,,b5zoic ,,acid 7,,acidum ,,b5zoicum74 ,?is acid1 conta9$ 9 b5zo91 is made also syn!tically f o!r mat]ials1 9 *emical laboratories4 ,:5 pure x =ms ne$le-%ap$ cry/als hav+ a silky gloss2 !y h a peculi> acrid ta/e1 b no odor4 ,syn!tic b5zoic acid is wor?less to ! p]fum]2 9 8 art he c use only a b5zoic acid made f gum b5zo9 by sublimation1 because x conta9s a v aromatic ess5tial oil = :i* ! acid is m]ely ! vehicle & :i* c also be employ$ alone4 ,z ?is sublim$ b5zoic acid is (t5 adult]at$ ) ! artificial1 we advise ! manufactur] ( p]fum]y to make 8 own b5zoic acid accord+ to ! foll[+ directions4 ,! ,manufacture ( ,sublim$ ,b5zoic ,acid4 ,ab\t f\r p\nds ( b5zo9 ,b ( be/ quality is brok5 into small pieces & plac$ 9 a small copp] boil] ,k 7,fig4 #c72 ov] its entire surface is pa/$ :ite blott+ pap] ,l1 & to ?is is pa/$ a cone ( /rong pap] :i* mu/ surr\nd ! edge ( ! boil]4 ,! cone ends above 9 a pap] tube ,r1 ab\t five feet long & an in* wide4 ,! copp] boil] is plac$ 9 a l>ge clay pot ,t 7a fl[] pot7 & surr\nd$ on all sides ) f9e s&4 ,! clay pot is heat$ f )\t by a *>coal fire4 ,aft] ! pot has rema9$ ab\t half an h\r on ! fire1 ! latt] is fann$ to its utmo/ & kept at ?is po9t = ?irty m9utes4 ,! heat volatilizes ! b5zoic acid1 ! above-m5tion$ ess5tial oil1 & "s t>ry sub/ances ( a br[n color4 ,! latt] are arre/$ by ! filt] pap]1 :ile ! b5zoic acid is deposit$ on ! cone & 9 ! tube1 9 ! =m ( delicate glossy ne$les :i* are v fragrant ow+ to ! ess5tial oil4 ,! l>ge/ yield ( b5zoic acid is obta9$ :5 ! temp]ature is rais$ v gradually1 until f9ally no?+ rema9s 9 ! copp] boil] b a br[n1 almo/ c>boniz$ mass ( a bli/]$ appe>ance4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #c4 ,,borax 7,,sodii ,,boras7 is us$ 9 "s prep>ations4 ,borax =ms colorless cry/als :i* slightly effloresce 9 dry air & h5ce mu/ be pres]v$ 9 tightly clos$ vessels4 ,r$di% t9t$ cry/als are contam9at$ ) oxide ( iron & %\ld be reject$4 ,,p]manganate ,,( ,,potassium 7,,potassi ,,p]manganas7 is a salt =m$ by fus+ a mixture ( manganese dioxide1 potassa1 & potassium *lorate1 extract+ ! product ) wat]1 & evaporat+ ! solution to cry/allization2 ! salt is obta9$ 9 small d>k violet1 almo/ black cry/als :i* dissolve 9 sixte5 p>ts ( wat] to :i* !y imp>t a beautiful violet color4 ,by contact ) organic sub/ances1 or o!rs easily oxidiz$1 ! solution *anges its color into gre5 & f9ally is decoloriz$1 precipitat+ a br[n p[d]4 ,ow+ to ?is *ange ( color ! salt has be5 call$ *ameleon m9]al4 ,z its prep>ation requires consid]able dext]ity1 x is pref]able to buy x f reputable h\ses1 r ?an to make x4 ,x is us$ 9 ! manufacture ( m\? wa%es & hair dyes4 ,! solution ( ! salt causes br[n /a9s on l95 & ! sk92 !y c be remov$ only if ! spots are imm$iately wa%$ ) hydro*loric1 oxalic1 sulphuric1 or ano!r acid4 ,,acetic ,,acid 7,,acidum ,,aceticum74 ,mu* confusion exi/s 9 ! lit]ature reg>d+ ! /r5g? ( acetic acid :5 m]ely call$ by ?is "n4 ,x is safe to assume t1 9 ea* c\ntry1 ! t]m applies to ! acid (fic9al 9 its national ph>macopia z 8,acidum ,aceticum40 ,?us ! ,au/rian & ,g]man ph>macopias und]/& by x an acid conta9+ #if ( absolute acetic acid1 :i* is practically id5tical ) :at is kn[n z glacial acetic acid4 ,! latt] is1 9 "s ph>macopias1 di/+ui%$ by a special "n3 acidum aceticum glaciale1 ,u4,s4 ,p42 acide actique cry/allisable1 ,fr5* ,ph>m4--,9 ! pres5t "w1 ! au?or always int5d$ ! /rong acid ( ! ,au/rian ph>macopia to be und]/ood :5 no o!r /r5g? 0 designat$4 ,l alcohol1 /rong acetic acid dissolves ess5tial oils & is us$ 9 ! manufacture ( v>i\s toilet v9eg>s & wa%es4 ,acetic acid is made 9 *emical laboratories by di/illation ( acetate ( sodium ) sulphuric acid1 or m commonly f wood v9eg>4 ,! buy] %\ld always satisfy himself t ! product is free f an empyreumatic odor :i* cl+s t5aci\sly to an insuffici5tly purifi$ sample4 ,,fats4 ,fats f9d ext5sive application 9 p]fum]y1 9 ! prep>ation ( ! s-call$ huiles antiques1 pomades1 & _m o!r cosmetics4 ,!y %\ld be enum]at$ among ! *emical products us$ 9 p]fum]y because !y c nev] be employ$ 9 _! comm]cial =m1 b mu/ und]go "s process ( purification1 :i* is effect$ less by me*anical ?an by *emical means4 ,comm]cial fats usually conta9 remnants ( ! animal or vegetable body f :i* !y are d]iv$3 p>ticles ( blood & membranes occur frequ5tly 9 animal fats2 cell bodies & vegetable album9 9 vegetable fats4 ,besides ^! me*anical impurities1 fats1 especially if old1 sometimes conta9 small am\nts ( free fatty acids :i* suffice to imp>t to !m ! objectionable odor & ta/e peculi> to e rancid fat4 ,:ile "s fats1 su* z be>'s grease1 butt] ( cacao1 oil ( sesame1 & "s o!rs1 rema9 free f rancidity = a long "t1 o!rs und]go ?is *ange v rapidly2 9 fact1 we may say t e fat :i* %[s ! slighte/ odor %\ld be call$ rancid1 = pure fat is absolutely odorless4 ,we %all "h briefly describe ! process employ$ 9 ! fat indu/ry & by p]fum]s = ! purification ( fats4 ,animal fat1 su* z l>d1 suet1 be>'s grease1 etc41 z well z cocoanut & palm oils1 are introduc$ into a l>ge iron boil] conta9+ dilute soda lye 7n exce$+ "o p] c5t ( cau/ic soda71 & ! lye is heat$ to boil+4 ,9 ! boil] is a small pump t]m9at+ above 9 a curv$ tube hav+ a rose ( a wat]+-pot at ! end4 ,! pump is s arrang$ z to raise lye & melt$ fat at ! same "t & to return ! fluid into ! boil] 9 a f9e spray4 ,aft] ! fat is melt$1 ! solid matt]s float+ on top are skimm$ (f ) a p]=at$ spoon1 & !n ! pump is op]at$ = ab\t fifte5 m9utes4 ,! conta9$ %r$s ( membrane & simil> sub/ances are completely dissolv$ by ! soda lye1 ! free fatty acids are p]fectly comb9$1 & ! fat is at ! same "t decoloriz$4 ,aft] cool+1 x floats on ! surface ( ! lye z a colorless & odorless fluid2 x is ladl$ (f & p\r$ into tall tap]+ vessels :i* are well clos$ & pres]v$ 9 cool cell>s4 ,contact ) ! air1 especially at high] temp]atures1 causes rancidity ( ! fat4 ,= e tw5ty p\nds ( fat tw5ty qu>ts ( lye are us$4 ,accord+ to ano!r process ! fat is purifi$ by be+ heat$ ) alum & table salt2 or e tw5ty-five p\nds ( fat1 "o ounce ( alum & two ounces ( salt are dissolv$ 9 five gallons ( wat]4 ,! scum is c>efully skimm$ f ! surface ( ! melt$ fat1 &1 aft] x has solidifi$1 ! fat is wa%$ ) wat] until ! latt] escapes p]fectly ta/eless & odorless4 ,! wa%+ is a v complicat$ & t$i\s piece ( "w4 ,op]at+ on a small scale1 a slightly incl9$ m>ble slab is tak51 ^u :i* a ?9 /ream ( wat] is con/antly fall+ f a tube arrang$ above x4 ,! fat is plac$ on ! slab 9 small quantities 7n ov] two p\nds7 & gr\nd ) a mull]1 l oil colors1 "u a con/ant fl[ ( wat]4 ,ow+ to ! exp5se ( h& labor1 x is advisable to use a s-call$ v]tical mill or *as]4 ,?is consi/s ( a level1 circul>1 horizontal m>ble slab1 be>+ a c5tral1 easily movable axis ) a crosspiece ^u :i* two1 likewise v]tical1 cyl9drical m>ble plates turn l :eels 9 a circle on ! horizontal m>ble plate4 ,! fat is plac$ on ! latt] & cont9ually irrigat$ ) wat]2 beh9d e *as] is appli$ a m>ble plate ) a blade :i* ne>ly t\*es ! *as]s & returns ! fat displac$ lat]ally1 "u ! *as]s4 ,! axis ar\nd :i* ! *as]s run is kept mov+ by any available p[]1 & ! labor] has no?+ to d b to replace ! wa%$ fat ) crude4 ,liquid fats are purifi$ z foll[s3 ,! oil is intimately mix$ ) "o p] c5t ( sulphuric acid4 ,! mixture assumes a black color1 ! vegetable mucilage pres5t 9 ! oil becom+ c>boniz$4 ,aft] sev]al days' re/ ! oil becomes cle> & floats on ! surface ( ! sulphuric acid :i* has assum$ a black color f ! pres5ce ( f9ely divid$ c>bon4 ,! oil is decant$ & treat$1 9 ! mann] above /at$ = solid fats1 ) cau/ic soda lye4 ,heat+ c be disp5s$ ) if ! pump+ is cont9u$ = a long] "t4 ,b5zo9 & b5zoic acid h ! prop]ty ( c\nt]act+ ! t5d5cy ( fats to become rancid2 x is advisable1 !re=e1 to mix intimately ) ! completely wa%$ fat a small am\nt ( b5zoic acid1 at mo/ "o-"o-?\s&? "p by weight4 ,! be/ way ( pres]v+ fats is by salicylic acid4 ,?is is add$ to solid fats :ile !y are 9 a melt$ /ate2 if oils1 ! acid is p\r$ 9 & ! bottle vigor\sly %ak54 ,if ! oil is 9 casks1 a small bag fill$ ) salicylic acid is hung into x f ! bung-hole4 ,! acid dissolves 9 ! oil & is dissem9at$ ?r\gh x & ?us effects its pres]vation4 ,"o-"o-?\s&? "p by weight ( ! fat or oil is said to be m ?an suffici5t to keep x p]fectly fre% = ye>s4 ,fats diff] l>gely 9 _! physical prop]ties--= in/ance1 9 _! appe>ance1 melt+-po9t1 firmness1 etc4 ,z we %all return to ?is subject 9 connection ) ! manufacture ( "s p]fumes1 x is en\gh "h to /ate briefly t by ! addition ( sp]maceti1 wax1 p>aff91 etc41 fats are made m transp>5t & firm]--a matt] ( importance = "s cosmetic prep>ations4 ,,*9ese ,,gelat94 ,?is sub/ance1 d]iv$ f sev]al alg1 species ( ,eu*euma1 indig5\s to ! ,*9ese sea1 & id5tical ) ,japanese ag>-ag>1 on be+ boil$ ) two hundr$ p>ts ( wat] has ! prop]ty ( =m+ a colorless solution :i* solidifies on cool+4 ,ow+ to ?is prop]ty ! addition ( a small quantity ( ,*9ese gelat9 7#ja-jb7 is an excell5t means = imp>t+ to c]ta9 pomades & o9tm5ts great transp>5cy & firmness4 ,,fruit ,,e!rs are liquids :i* possess an agreeable1 refre%+ odor resembl+ t ( "s fruits4 ,= ?is reason !y are us$ 9 confection]y1 9 ! manufacture ( liqueurs1 & also 9 _m ways 9 p]fum]y4 ,*emically1 fruit e!rs are comb9ations ( an organic acid--acetic1 butyric1 val]ianic1 etc4--) a s-call$ alcohol radicle su* z e?yl & amyl4 ,_! manufacture is connect$ ) _m difficulties & is b r>ely attempt$ by p]fum]s1 especially z ^! products are made a specialty 9 "s *emical laboratories & are furni%$ at v l[ prices & ( excell5t quality4 ,9 p]fum]y ! foll[+ fruit e!rs are p>ticul>ly employ$4 ,,acetic ,,e!r1 prep>$ by ! di/illation ( acetate ( sodium ) alcohol & sulphuric acid1 is a colorless liquid hav+ an odor ( f]m5t+ apple juice1 ) a boil+-po9t at #gd ,c4 7#aee ,f474 ,,p9e-,,apple ,,e!r 7e!r or huile d'ananas7 is made by ! saponification ( butt] ) solution ( potassa1 di/illation ( ! soap ) alcohol & sulphuric acid1 & rectification ( ! di/illate4 ,x is an inflammable liquid ) an int5se odor ( p9e-apple2 its boil+-po9t is #aai ,c4 7#bdf ,f474 ,x is n g5]ally us$ pure1 z its odor ne$s "s correction4 ,?is is accompli%$ by ! addition ( a little val]ianate ( amyl1 & *lor(orm4 ,also 9 o!r ways4 ,,apple ,,e!r1 prep>$ by di/illation f val]ianate ( sodium ) alcohol & sulphuric acid1 & ! subsequ5t addition ( c]ta9 correctives 7see bel[74 ,,pe> ,,e!r1 also call$ pe> oil1 *iefly val]ianate ( amyl oxide1 c be obta9$ 9 l>ge quantities f a by-product 9 ! manufacture ( potato _s1 namely1 amyl alcohol1 :i* is c>efully heat$ 9 a /ill ) bi*romate ( potassium & sulphuric acid4 ,! product ?us obta9$ has a v pleasant odor ( f9e pe>s & boils at #aif ,c4 7#che ,f474 ,b ! comm]cial 8pe>-ess5ce0 is a m complex body 7see foll[+ table74 ,,nitr\s ,,e!r is a v volatile liquid boil+ at #af ,c4 7#fa ,f471 :i* is obta9$ by di/illation ( /rong alcohol ) conc5trat$ nitric acid & rectification ( ! di/illate2 x is less us$ 9 p]fum]y ?an ! o!r fruit e!rs4 ,fruit e!rs1 ow+ to _! l[ price & great /r5g?1 are frequ5tly employ$ 9 ! manufacture ( *eap p]fum]y1 9 place ( ess5tial oils1 b m l>gely = sc5t+ soap4 ,! s-call$ raspb]ry & /rawb]ry e!rs consi/ ( mixtures ( acetic1 p9e-apple1 apple1 & o!r e!rs 7see foll[+ table71 :i*1 comb9$ 9 c]ta9 proportions1 really manife/ an odor ne>ly ak9 to ^? ( ! fruits aft] :i* !y are nam$4 ,,fruit ,,e!rs 7,,fruit ,,ess5ces74 ,,table ,,%[+ ,,! ,,+r$i5ts ,,usually ,,employ$ ,,= ,,prep>+ ,,artificial ,,fruit ,,e!rs 7,,fruit ,,ess5ces74 ,a ,pea*4 ,b ,apricot4 ,c ,plum4 ,d ,*]ry4 ,e ,black ,*]ry4 ,f ,lemon4 ,g ,pe>4 ,h ,orange4 ,i ,apple4 ,j ,grape4 ,k ,gooseb]ry4 ,l ,raspb]ry4 ,m ,/rawb]ry4 ,n ,melon4 ,o ,p9e-apple4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,a ,b ,c ,d ,e ,f ,g ,h ,i ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,glyc]9 #e #d #h #c 44 #e #aj #aj #d ,*lor(orm 44 #a 44 44 44 #a 44 #b #a ,nitr\s e!r 44 44 44 44 44 #a 44 44 #a ,aldehyde #b 44 #e 44 44 #b 44 #b #b ,acetate ( e?yl #e 44 #e #e #aj #aj #e #e #a ,=mate ( e?yl #e 44 #a 44 44 44 44 #a 44 ,butyrate ( e?yl #e #aj #b 44 44 44 44 #a 44 ,val]ianate ( e?yl #e #e 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 ,b5zoate ( e?yl 44 44 44 #e #e 44 44 #a 44 nan?ate ( e?yl #e #a #d #a #b 44 44 44 44 ,salicylate ( me?yl #b #b 44 44 44 44 44 #a 44 ,sebacic acid #a 44 44 44 44 44 #aj 44 44 ,acetate ( amyl 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 #aj 44 ,butyrate ( amyl 44 #a 44 44 44 #aj 44 44 #aj ,val]ianate ( amyl 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 ,ess5ce ( orange 44 44 44 44 44 #aj 44 #aj 44 ,alcohol1 ,t>t>ic acid44 44 44 44 #a 44 44 #a #a solutions ,oxalic acid 44 #a 44 44 44 #a 44 44 44 saturat$ 9,succ9ic acid44 44 44 #a #b 44 44 44 44 ! cold ( ,b5zoic acid 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------ ,j ,k ,l ,m ,n ,o ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------ ,glyc]9 #aj 44 #d #b #c #c ,*lor(orm #b 44 44 44 44 #a ,nitr\s e!r 44 44 #a #a 44 44 ,aldehyde #b #a #a 44 #b #a ,acetate ( e?yl 44 #e #e #e 44 44 ,=mate ( e?yl #b 44 #a #a #a 44 ,butyrate ( e?yl 44 44 #a #e #d #e ,val]ianate ( e?yl 44 44 44 44 #e 44 ,b5zoate ( e?yl 44 #a #a 44 44 44 nan?ate ( e?yl #aj #a #a 44 44 44 ,salicylate ( me?yl #a 44 #a #a 44 44 ,sebacic acid 44 44 #a 44 #aj 44 ,acetate ( amyl 44 44 #a #c 44 #aj ,butyrate ( amyl 44 44 44 #b 44 44 ,val]ianate ( amyl 44 44 44 44 44 44 ,ess5ce ( orange 44 #e #e 44 44 44 ,alcohol1 ,t>t>ic acid #e 44 44 44 44 44 solutions ,oxalic acid 44 #a #a 44 44 44 saturat$ 9,succ9ic acid #c #a 44 44 44 44 ! cold ( ,b5zoic acid 44 44 #a 44 44 44 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------ ,,glyc]94 ,?is sub/ance1 :i* may be call$ a true cosmetic 9 itself1 z x possesses m>k$ solv5t p[] = cutane\s color+ matt]s & at ! same "t imp>ts to ! sk9 delicacy & flexibility1 is at pres5t to be _h comm]cially 9 great purity4 ,pure glyc]9 is a brilliant1 colorless1 & odorless sub/ance ( ! consi/5ce ( a ?ick syrup1 :i* mixes ) wat] & alcohol 9 all proportions & has a slightly w>m b v sweet ta/e4 ,x readily absorbs aromatic sub/ances & is us$ 9 _m valu$ toilet articles 9 comb9ation ) fats & p]fumes4 ,rec5tly we h succe$$ 9 us+ glyc]9 mo/ successfully = ! extraction ( aromatic sub/ances4 ,,oil ,,( ,,mirbane1 also call$ artificial oil ( bitt] almonds1 nitrob5zol1 & ess5ce ( mirbane4 ,?is sub/ance1 :i* is n[ l>gely us$ 9 p]fum]y & soap manufacture1 is obta9$ by ! action ( fum+ nitric acid on b5zol4 ,! mixture becomes hot & emits masses ( br[n vapors1 & !re is =m$ a yell[ oily body :i* is wa%$ ) wat] & soda solution until ! wa%+s escape colorless4 ,pure nitrob5zol is n soluble 9 wat]1 b 9 alcohol or e!r1 boils at #bac ,c4 7#dae ,f471 & congeals at-#e to #f ,c4 7#ba-bc ,f474 ,its spec4 grav4 is #ab or a little ov]4 ,any oil ( mirbane hav+ a l[] specific gravity ?an #ab at #ae ,c4 7#ei ,f47 is spuri\s1 mo/ likely nitrotoluol4 ,its odor greatly resembles t ( oil ( bitt] almonds1 b c be cle>ly diff]5tiat$ f x on comp>ison4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 9 inhal+ ! vapor :5 undilut$1 z x is poison\s4 ,by di/illation nitrob5zol c be obta9$ q colorless1 & 9 ?is =m is (t5 us$ = ! adult]ation ( g5u9e oil ( bitt] almonds4 ,?is adult]ation1 h[ev]1 c be easily demon/rat$ by heat+ = a %ort "t ) an alcoholic solution ( a cau/ic alkali :i* sep>ates f nitrob5zol a br[n res9\s sub/ance1 :ile true oil ( bitt] almonds loses its odor & *anges into b5zoic acid :i* unites ) ! alkali4 ,,p>aff94 ,?is sub/ance is "o ( ! products ( ! di/illation ( petroleum1 coal1 peat1 & o!r c>bonace\s s\rces4 ,x is a cry/all9e1 brittle body1 closely resembl+ wax 9 appe>ance & melt+ betwe5 #ea & #fj ,c4 7#abd & #adj ,f474 ,p>aff91 :i* is n[ made on a l>ge scale = ! manufacture ( c&les1 is v useful 9 p]fum]y z a p>tial sub/itute = ! mu* m exp5sive wax or sp]maceti1 ov] :i* x has ! advantage1 besides its *eapness1 t x imp>ts to ! articles great transp>5cy--a quality :i* is valu$ highly 9 f9e p]fum]ies4 ,! addition ( "s p>aff9 to pomades r5d]s !m m consi/5t & c\nt]acts _! t5d5cy to become rancid4 ,di/ill$ p>aff9 always has a cry/all9e =m1 diff]+ f ! p>aff9-l residues left aft] ! di/illation ( petroleum 7s-call$ vasel9s1 etc41 see bel[7 :i* are always amorph\s4 ,,pyrogallic ,,acid appe>s 9 comm]ce z a :ite cry/all9e p[d]1 made by heat+ gallic acid to #bjj-baj ,c4 7#cib-daj ,f474 ,) iron salts1 pyrogallic acid =ms blui%-black comb9ations & precipitates ! metal f silv] solutions z a velvety-black p[d]4 ,on acc\nt ( ^! prop]ties pyrogallic acid is us$ 9 p]fum]y z a con/itu5t ( "s hair dyes4 ,,sulphide ,,( ,,potassium1 liv] ( sulphur1 hep> sulphuris1 potassii sulphuretum1 ! p5tasulphide ( potassium1 is obta9$ by fus+ toge!r pota% & sulphur1 9 ! %ape ( a lea!r-br[n mass :i* is soluble 9 wat] & on exposure to ! air is gradually decompos$ ) ! developm5t ( ! (f5sive sulphurett$ hydrog5 gas2 h5ce x %\ld be pres]v$ 9 well-clos$ vessels4 ,an aque\s solution ( ?is sub/ance =ms ) lead or silv] salts a black precipitate ( sulphide ( lead or silv]1 & is us$ = "s hair dyes4 ,,/>* ,,fl\r 7amylum7 is prep>$ f v>i\s vegetables su* z potatoes1 rice1 arr[root1 sago1 etc41 & :5 pure appe>s z an insoluble :ite p[d] :i* ! microscope %[s to be gra9s consi/+ ( _m sup]impos$ lay]s4 ,9 comm]ce ! price ( ! diff]5t v>ieties ( />* fluctuates greatly2 9 p]fum]y well-cleans$ potato />* c v well be us$ = du/+ p[d]s1 & ! s-call$ p\dre de riz2 9 ?is c\ntry1 corn />* is pref]able4 ,,vanill91 t is1 ! body to :i* vanilla owes its fragrance1 is n[ made artificially & c be us$ 9 place ( vanilla = soaps & pomades4 ,,vasel94 ,9 ! di/illation ( petroleum !re rema9 9 ! /ill z a residue l>ge quantities ( a sub/ance :i* :5 purifi$ is colorless &1 accord+ to ! nature ( ! petroleum1 at ord9>y temp]atures has ei!r ! consi/5ce ( l>d1 melt+ "u ! heat ( ! h&1 or =ms an oily liquid4 ,9 p]fum]y vasel9 c be us$ l fat or oil1 ov] :i* x has ! advantage 9 t x always rema9s odorless & free f acid2 h5ce x is v appropriate = ! manufacture ( pomades4 ,! m>ket af=ds num]\s v>ieties ( ?is sub/ance1 "u diff]5t names3 vasel9 7oil & solid71 albol5e 7oil & solid71 cosmol91 etc41 etc4 ,,sp]maceti is a sub/ance f\nd 9 ! skull cavities ( sev]al :ales & dolph9s4 ,9 its prop]ties x /&s midway betwe5 beeswax1 p>aff91 & firm fats4 ,9 ! liv+ animal sp]maceti is fluid1 b aft] its dea? x congeals to a :ite cry/all9e mass ( a fatty lu/re1 :i* melts at #dj ,c4 7#ajd ,f471 & is frequ5tly us$ = f9e c&les z well z = o!r articles4 ,,wax 7,c]a alba71 ! well-kn[n product ( ! bee2 9 p]fum]y only blea*$ 7:ite7 wax is employ$4 ,9 rec5t ye>s ,japanese wax has appe>$ 9 comm]ce2 ?is is ( vegetable orig91 b 9 its prop]ties resembles beeswax4 ,,subnitrate ,,( ,,bismu?1 bismu? :ite1 pe>l :ite1 bismu?i subnitras1 blanc de bismu?1 blanc de p]les1 ! basic nitrate ( bismu?1 ! *ief +r$i5t ( _m sk9 cosmetics1 is prep>$ by dissolv+ metallic bismu? 9 mod]ately /rong nitric acid1 & p\r+ ! solution into a l>ge quantity ( wat]1 :]eupon ! subnitrate is precipitat$4 ,! precipitat$ p[d] is collect$ on a funnel & wa%$ ) pure wat] until ! wa% wat] no long] *anges blue t9cture ( litmus to r$4 ,! bismu? :ite is dri$ & pres]v$ 9 well-clos$ vessels1 s9ce 9 ! air x gradually assumes a yell[i% color2 = any sulphurett$ hydrog5 pres5t 9 ! air is gre$ily absorb$ by ?is salt1 & ! result+ comb9ation ) sulphur has a black color4 ,,oxide ,,( ,,t9 is obta9$ by treat+ metallic t9 ) fum+ nitric acid1 add+ ! solution to a l>ge quantity ( wat]1 & wa%+ ! product1 :i* =ms a :ite insoluble p[d] us$ cosmetically = poli%+ ! f+] nails4 99 99 99 99 99 ,besides ! *emical products "h enum]at$1 "s o!rs f9d application 9 p]fum]y2 we %all describe _! prop]ties 9 connection ) ! articles into :i* !y ent]4 ,9 ?is connection m5tion may be made ( ! fact t m & m aromatic sub/ances are n[ made artificially :i* 7 =m]ly obta9$ ) difficulty f plants4 ,besides vanill9 m5tion$ above1 cum>91 oil ( w9t]gre51 & "s o!r products are prep>$ artificially4 ,heliotrop9 & n]ol9 are artificially prep>$ sub/ances1 possess+ an odor resembl+ t ( heliotrope & oil ( n]oli1 respectively1 b n id5tical *emically ) ! natural odor\s sub/ance4 ,artificial musk 7,baur's71 is play+ a rle at pres5t1 b is n id5tical ) ! natural sub/ance4 ,c4 ,! ,colors us$ 9 ,p]fum]y4 ,"s articles are color$ int5tionally2 ?is rem>k applies p>ticul>ly to "s soaps :i* n r>ely are /a9$ to correspond to ! color ( ! fl[] ^: odor !y be>2 = in/ance1 violet soap4 ,"s articles aga9 are us$ only on acc\nt ( _! color2 = in/ance1 pa9ts1 hair & :isk] dyes4 ,z we %all discuss ?is subject at great] l5g? 9 connection ) ^! toilet articles1 we m]ely /ate "h t n[adays e manufactur] c *oose betwe5 a l>ge numb] ( dyes ( any color1 all ( :i* are innoxi\s2 h5ce no p]fum] %\ld "u any circum/ances use poison\s colors4 ,?is is a matt] ( importance ) sub/ances int5d$ = imm$iate contact ) ! human body su* z pa9ts1 lip salves1 soaps1 etc4 ,all ( ^! colors w be describ$ h]eaft]4 ,,*apt] ,,vii4 ,,! ,,extraction ,,( ,,odors4 ,except+ ! articles made 9 ,turkey & ,india 7especially oil ( rose71 mo/ aromatic sub/ances are manufactur$ 9 s\!rn ,france & ! adjo9+ regions ( ,italy1 :ile a few 7oils ( pepp]m9t & lav5d]7 are produc$ 9 ,engl&2 a few also 7oils ( pepp]m9t1 spe>m9t1 w9t]gre51 sassafras1 etc47 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,h[ev]1 z we h /at$ above1 x is possible to cultivate "s plants f :i* odors are extract$ 9 ! w>m sections ( ?is c\ntry1 & to obta9 ! mo/ exp5sive p]fumes f !m4 ,among ^! plants our exp]i5ce leads u to sugge/ violets1 roses1 res$a1 lav5d]1 m9ts1 syr+a1 lilac1 & sev]al o!rs to :i* ! climate is adapt$4 ,! me?ods by :i* ! odors c be extract$ f ! plants diff] accord+ to ! physical prop]ties ( ! raw mat]ial & ! *emical composition ( ! aromatic sub/ance4 ,we %all "h briefly describe ! me?ods ?us f> kn[n1 & at ! same "t add our own exp]i5ce 9 ?is mo/ important "p ( ! art ( p]fum]y4 ,! aromatic sub/ances are obta9$ by pressure1 by di/illation1 by mac]ation 7infusion71 by absorption 7enfleurage7 ?r\gh air or ?r\gh c>bonic acid1 & by extraction4 ,,pressure4 ,c]ta9 aromatic sub/ances t occur 9 l>ge am\nts 9 "s p>ts ( plants1 are be/ obta9$ by pressure4 ,! r9ds ( c]ta9 fruits conta9 an ess5tial oil 9 consid]able quantities inclos$ 9 receptacles easily di/+ui%$ "u ! microscope4 ,:5 ^! vegetable sub/ances are subject$ to /rong pressure1 ! oil receptacles bur/ & ! ess5tial oil escapes4 ,! =ce is usually appli$ ?r\gh a screw press ) a /\t iron sp9dle2 ! vegetable sub/ances be+ inclos$ 9 /rong l95 or horse-hair clo?s1 plac$ betwe5 iron plates1 & subject$ to a gradually increas+ pressure4 ,comp>ative exp]im5ts h %[n u t ev5 ) ! mo/ p[]ful presses a consid]able1 am\nt ( oil is lo/ ow+ to ! fact t a l>ge numb] ( oil receptacles rema9 intact4 ,= ?is reason1 :5 oil is to be extract$ by pressure1 a hydraulic press is pref]able1 z x develops great] p[] ?an any o!r press4 ,9 ! hydraulic presses us$ = ?is purpose ! pi/on fits exactly into a holl[ iron cyl9d] ) sieve-l op5+s 9 its circumf]5ce4 ,! vegetable sub/ances are fill$ into ?is cyl9d]2 :5 ! pressure is appli$1 ! fluids escape ?r\gh ! p]=ations1 & ! residue =ms a compact woody cake :i* is !n free f oil4 ,besides ! ess5tial oil1 wat]y fluid is express$1 ! :ole appe>+ z a milky liquid1 ow+ to ! admixture ( vegetable fibres1 mucilage1 etc4 ,x is collect$ 9 a tall glass cyl9d] :i* is set 9 a place free f any vibration4 ,aft] rema9+ at re/ = sev]al h\rs ! liquid sep>ates into two lay]s1 ! l[] be+ wat]y & mix$ ) mucilage1 t float+ on top be+ almo/ pure oil4 ,! latt] is sep>at$1 & f9ally purifi$ by filtration ?r\gh a d\ble pap] cone 9 a funnel cov]$ ) a glass plate4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #d4 ,x is be/ to sep>ate ! wat] & oil 9 a regul> sep>atory funnel1 or 9 a simple app>atus illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #d4 ,x is made by cutt+ ! bottom f a tall flask1 & fitt+ into ! neck by means ( a cork a glass tube hav+ a diamet] ( "o-f\r? to "o-half in*4 ,a rubb] tube ) /op-cock is fa/5$ to ! glass tube4 ,by c>eful op5+ ( ! /op-cock1 ! wat]y fluid c be dra9$ (f to ! la/ drop4 ,to ! p]fum] ?is me?od is ( little importance1 s9ce x is applicable only to a few sub/ances :i*1 moreov]1 give *eap odors4 ,/ill1 ! possession ( a hydraulic press is advisable to e manufactur] :o works on a l>ge scale1 z x is useful also 9 ! prep>ation ( sev]al fix$ oils frequ5tly employ$ 9 p]fum]y1 = in/ance1 oils ( almonds1 nuts1 etc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #f4 ,fix$ oils are be/ extract$ 9 s-call$ drop presses1 ! mat]ial hav+ fir/ be5 comm9ut$ betwe5 roll]s4 ,^! are arrang$ z %[n 9 section 9 ,fig4 #e1 & 9 gr\nd plan 9 ,fig4 #f4 ,! app>atus consi/s ( two smoo? or slightly groov$ iron cyl9d]s ,a & ,b1 respectively f\r feet & "o foot 9 diamet]1 :i* c be approximat$ or sep>at$ by means ( set screws4 ,! mat]ial is plac$ into ! tr\gh ,f conta9+ a fe$+ roll] mov$ by ! belt ,p4 ,! scrap]s ,,ff1 press$ aga9/ ! cyl9d]s by means ( weight$ lev]s1 free ! roll]s f adh]+ pieces4 ,! drop presses ,figs4 #g & #h consi/ ( a hydraulic press ) cyl9d]s ,a & pi/on ,b2 ! tr\ghs ,e are movable by means ( r+s betwe5 two v]tical columns & e tr\gh has a circul> gutt] d = ! reception ( ! express$ oil4 ,! iron pots ,g h d\ble walls1 ! inn] ( :i* has a s]ies ( op5+s at its upp] "p2 ^! pots are fill$ ) ! bruis$ mat]ial to be press$ & aft] ?is has be5 cov]$ ) a plate ( horse-hair tissue are set 9 ! press4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #g4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #h4 ,z ! pi/on rises1 ! tr\ghs ,e s9k into ! pots1 ! escap+ oil collects 9 ! gutt]s d & !nce passes into a receptacle4 ,aft] press+1 ! pi/on is all[$ to s9k back1 ! pots ,g are drawn aside 7,fig4 #h7 to tabul> surfaces1 & o!r pots are sub/itut$ = ! exhau/$ ones4 ,^! drop presses are suitable = ! extraction ( all fix$ oils & also volatile oils pres5t 9 orange & lemon peel1 etc4 ,,di/illation4 ,_m odors or ess5tial oils possess ! rem>kable prop]ty t _! vapors pass s l>gely ) t ( boil+ wat] t !y c be extract$ 9 ?is way 7by 8di/illation07 f vegetable sub/ances1 ?\gh ! ess5tial oils h a boil+-po9t f> above t ( wat]4 ,di/illation c be employ$ = a l>ge numb] ( sub/ances2 = in/ance1 ! ess5tial oils pres5t 9 cum91 anise1 lav5d]1 f5nel1 mace1 nutmeg1 etc41 are extract$ exclusively 9 ?is mann]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #i4 ,= ! extraction ( odors 9 ?is way1 accord+ to ! quantities ( mat]ial to be work$1 diff]5t app>atuses are us$1 "s ( ! mo/ important ( :i* w be "h describ$4 ,= manufactur]s :o run )\t /eam & are oblig$ to use a nak$ flame1 ! adjo9+ app>atus 7,fig4 #i7 w be advantage\s4 ,x consi/s ( a copp] boil] ,a1 ! /ill1 set 9 a brick furnace4 ,! latt] is s con/ruct$ t ! inc&esc5t gases /rike n only ! curv$ bottom ( ! /ill1 b also its sides ?r\gh ! flues ,z left 9 ! brickwork4 ,! /ill1 ^: upp] "p projects f ! furnace1 has an op5+ ,o on ! left side1 clos$ air-tight ) a screw1 :i* s]ves = refill+ ) wat] dur+ di/illation :5 necess>y4 ,to ! m>g9 ( ! /ill is fitt$ /eam-tight ! helm ,h1 made ( copp] or t9n$ iron1 hav+ a prolongation1 ! tube ,r4 ,! latt] is jo9$ to ! conical projection v :i* t]m9ates 9 ! worm ,k4 ,9 "s app>atuses ?is projection is omitt$ & ! tube imm$iately jo9s ! worm4 ,! latt] is made ( t9n$ iron &1 z ! cut %[s1 is arrang$ 9 coils & support$ by props t 9 ! wood5 or metal cond5s] ,f4 ,! cond5s] be>s above a %ort b5t tube b1 & bel[1 imm$iately ov] ! bottom1 an elb[ tube e1 long en\gh to rea* above ! edge ( ! cond5s]1 z indicat$ 9 ! cut4 ,! vegetable sub/ances to be di/ill$ c be put imm$iately into ! /ill & cov]$ ) wat]2 b 9 ?is case x is advisable to use a /irr] :i* mu/ be kept mov+ until ! wat] boils1 o!rwise ! mat]ial might burn at ! bottom4 ,b ?is accid5t c also be prev5t$ by apply+ a p]=at$ false bottom to ! /ill above ! flues1 or by inclos+ ! mat]ial 9 a wire-sieve basket ,c4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,9 place ( ! basket ,c ! app>atus c also be provid$ ) an additional vessel conta9+ ! mat]ial to be di/ill$4 ,9 ! /ill ,a 7,fig4 #aj7 ! wat] is br\ght to boil+1 ! /eam rises ?r\gh ! second /ill ,b 9 :i* ! mat]ial is spread on a p]=at$ bottom4 ,! /eam lad5 ) ! vapors ( ! ess5tial oil passes ?r\gh ! tube ,r into ! cond5s]4 ,x is v advantage\s1 & 9 l>ge e/abli%m5ts altoge!r indisp5sable1 to use /eam 9 ! di/illation ( ess5tial oils4 ,fig4 #aa repres5ts ! arrangem5t ( su* an app>atus4 ,! /ill ,b 7:i* 9 ?is case may be made ( /\t t9n$ iron7 /&s free & is provid$ ) a wood5 jacket ,m = ! purpose ( reta9+ ! heat4 ,imm$iately above ! curv$ bottom is a p]=at$ plate on :i* ! mat]ial re/s4 ,! tube ,d :i* ent]s ! bottom ( ! /ill is connect$ ) ! boil] :i* furni%es /eam at mod]ate t5sion4 ,h is ! faucet = ! admission ( /eam2 ,h4 is ! faucet by :i* ! wat] escapes f ! /ill at ! end ( ! op]ation4 ,aft] ! /ill is fill$ ) ! mat]ial1 ! faucet ,h is op5$ gradually & a cont9u\s /ream ( /eam is all[$ to pass ?r\gh ! /ill until ! op]ation is f9i%$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,:5 work+ ) an op5 fire1 z soon z vapors appe> at ! l[] end ( ! worm 7,fig4 #i71 cold wat] is admitt$ ?r\gh ! tube ne2 z ! cold wat] ab/racts heat f ! vapors & cond5ses !m1 x becomes w>m1 rises to ! surface1 & escapes ?r\gh b1 s t ! worm is cont9ually surr\nd$ ) cold wat]4 ,if = any reason ! sav+ ( cold wat] is an object1 its fl[ may be s regulat$ t ! vapors are j cond5s$1 ! w>m di/illate be+ all[$ to cool 9 ! air4 ,:5 work+ ) /eam1 ! cold wat] mu/ be admitt$ ! mom5t ! /eam-cock is op5$1 & ! fl[ ( cold wat] %\ld be ample dur+ ! di/illation1 :i* 9 ?is case is mu* %ort]4 ,! l>ge app>atuses "h describ$ are g5]ally us$1 especially = ! extraction f vegetable sub/ances ( odors pres5t 9 consid]able quantity1 = in/ance1 mace1 nutmeg1 cloves1 c9namon1 etc41 or f bulky mat]ial z ! v>i\s fl[]s4 ,= v exp5sive odors1 small] app>atuses are (t5 employ$1 ! con/ruction ( :i* resembles t ( ! ones describ$4 ,= ?is purpose small glass app>atuses are v suitable2 !y are illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ab4 ,! /ill1 a retort ,a1 consi/s ( a sph]ical vessel ) a bottle neck t :i* is ei!r clos$ ) a cork or c>ries a !rmomet] or glass tube1 & ) a lat]al tube1 ! neck ( ! retort1 connect$ ) ! adapt] r4 ,! latt] passes into ! cond5s] ,c4 ,at ! l[] end ( ,r is ! b5t adapt] v "u :i* is plac$ ! receptacle = ! di/illate4 ,! tube ,c is clos$ ) corks1 at its l[] end is ! asc5d+ tube h1 & at its upp] end ! desc5d+ tube g4 ,dur+ ! di/illation cold wat] fl[s 9 ?r\gh h :i* cools ! tube r & escapes at g4 ,! tube ,c1 z w be readily und]/ood1 acts l ! cond5s] 9 ! l>g] app>atuses above describ$4 ,9 ord] to prev5t ! break+ ( ! retort1 x is n heat$ ov] a flame1 b is set 9 a t9 vessel ,b fill$ ) wat]4 ,! comm9ut$ vegetable mat]ial is ins]t$ ) wat] ?r\gh ! up-turn$ neck ( ! retort into ! latt]2 ! vessel ,b is fill$ ) wat] :i* is rais$ to ! boil+-po9t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,dur+ di/illation we obta9 at ! l[] end ( ! cond5s] pure wat] & ess5tial oil4 ,:5 l>g] quantities are to be di/ill$ x is advisable to use a ,flor5t9e flask z a receptacle = ! sep>ation ( ! oil & wat] 7,fig4 #ac74 ,x consi/s ( a glass bottle f ! bottom ( :i* asc5ds a tube curv$ above2 ! latt] rises high en\gh to br+ ! curvature slightly bel[ ! neck ( ! flask4 ,dur+ ! di/illation ! flask becomes fill$ ) wat] ,w1 on :i* floats a lay] ( oil ,o2 ! excess ( wat] escapes ?r\gh a at d until ! flask f9ally conta9s m oil & v little wat]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,:5 produc+ ess5tial oils on a l>ge scale1 in/ead ( ! frail ,flor5t9e flasks x is advisable to use sep>ators1 ! con/ruction ( :i* is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ad4 ,!y consi/ ( glass cyl9d]s1 conical above & bel[1 support$ on a suitable frame4 ,! wat] accumulat+ "u ! oil is all[$ to escape by op5+ ! /op-cock2 :5 ! fir/ sep>ator is fill$ ) oil1 ! succe$+ di/illate passes ?r\gh ! horizontal tube into ! next sep>ator1 etc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,:5 ! di/illation is c>ri$ on 9 an ord9>y /ill1 we obta91 besides ! ess5tial oil1 a consid]able quantity ( aromatic wat]1 t is1 a solution ( ! oil 9 wat]4 ,an app>atus :i* obviates ! losses caus$ !reby is t ( ,s*immel describ$ bel[1 :i* is well adapt$ to ! manufacture on a l>ge scale4 ,! app>atus is pat5t$4 ,! ne>ly sph]ical /ill ,d 7,fig4 #ae7 is surr\nd$ by a jacket ,m2 ! inlet /eam tube ,r is connect$ ) a bran* r :i* ent]s ! int]ior ( ! /ill z a spiral tube ) num]\s p]=ations1 :ile ,r op5s into ! space ,m4 ,:5 r is op5$1 di/illation takes place by direct /eam2 :5 ,r is op5$1 by indirect /eam2 :5 bo? faucets are op5$1 ! /ill is heat$ at ! same "t ) direct & indirect /eam4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,! vapors ris+ f ! /ill ,d pass ?r\gh ! helm ,c & ! tube ,a into ! worm ,k2 ! fluid cond5s$ 9 ! latt] drops into ! t9 ,flor5t9e flask ,f1 ! aromatic wat] fl[+ f ! latt] passes back into ! /ill ,d ?r\gh ! ,welt] funnel ,t & is di/ill$ ov] aga91 s t ! entire di/illation c be effect$ ) v little wat]1 & x is cont9u$ until ! wat] escap+ f ! ,flor5t9e flask is fre$ f oil & odorless4 ,:5 work+ ) sup]heat$ /eam1 x is necess>y to set "u ! funnel tube ,t a vessel twice ! size ( ! ,flor5t9e flask1 :i* is provid$ ) a /op-cock above & bel[4 ,! l[] cock is clos$1 ! vessel is all[$ to fill ) wat] f ,f1 !n ! upp] cock is clos$1 ! cont5ts be+ all[$ to escape into ,d by op5+1 :5 ! cocks are aga9 rev]s$4 ,! use ( sup]heat$ /eam is important especially ) mat]ial :i* gives up ! conta9$ oil ) difficulty1 su* z woods4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #af4 ,= free+ ! ess5tial oil completely f wat] we use a s-call$ sep>at+ funnel 7,fig4 #af74 ,?is consi/s ( a glass funnel ,t re/+ on a suitable support ,g1 :i* is clos$ above ) a glass plate gr\nd to fit1 drawn out bel[ into a f9e po9t ,s1 & provid$ ) a glass /op-cock ,h4 ,! cont5ts ( ! ,flor5t9e flask are p\r$ into ! funnel :i* is cov]$ ) ! glass plate & all[$ to /& at re/ until ! lay] ( oil ,o is cle>ly sep>at$ f ! wat] ,w4 ,by c>eful op5+ ( ! /op-cock ! wat] is all[$ to escape & ! oil is imm$iately fill$ into bottles :i* are clos$ air tight & pres]v$ 9 a cool & d>k place4 ,,mac]ation 7,,infusion74 ,"s odors1 l ^? ( cassie1 rose1 res$a1 syr+a1 jasm9e1 violets1 & _m o!r fragrant blossoms1 _c be obta9$ by di/illation z completely or z sweet-sc5t$ z by ! process ( mac]ation :i* is 9 g5]al use among ! l>ge p]fum]s 9 s\!rn ,france4 ,?is process is bas$ on ! prop]ty ( fats to absorb odor\s sub/ances ) avidity & to yield !m almo/ entirely to /rong alcohol4 ,accord+ to ! fat employ$ = ! mac]ation ( ! fl[]s--a solid fat l l>d or a liquid l olive oil--odor\s products are obta9$ :i* are kn[n ei!r z pomades or z p]fum$ oils 7huiles antiques74 ,by repeat$ly treat+ fre% fl[]s ) ! same fat ! manufactur] is able to p]fume ! pomade or oil at w1 & 9 ! factories ^! v>y+ /r5g?s are designat$ by numb]s2 ! high] numb]s indicat+ ! /rong] products4 ,! process ( mac]ation is v simple4 ,! fat is put into porcela9 or enamell$ iron pots :i* are heat$1 9 a %all[ vessel fill$ ) wat]1 to #dj or at mo/ #ej ,c4 7#ajd-abb ,f472 ! fl[]s are inclos$ 9 small bags ( f9e l95 & hung into ! fat1 :]e !y are all[$ to rema9 = f "o-half to two days4 ,at ! end ( t "t ! bags are remov$1 dra9$1 express$1 refill$ ) fre% fl[]s1 & replac$ 9 ! fat4 ,?is proc$ure is repeat$ twelve to sixte5 times or (t5]1 ?us produc+ pomades or oils ( v>y+ fragrance4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ag4 ,z ! odors are mu* sup]ior :5 ! fl[]s are only a %ort "t 9 contact ) ! fat1 x is bett] to use an app>atus = cont9u\s op]ation 7,fig4 #ag74 ,x consi/s ( a box ,k made ( t9 plate1 :i* is divid$ into f five to t5 comp>tm5ts by v]tical septa & c be clos$ wat] tight by a lid to be screw$ on4 ,! septa h alt]nate upp] & l[] op5+s4 ,! comp>tm5ts conta9 ea* a basket ( t9n$ wire fill$ ) ! fl[]s = mac]ation1 !n ! lid is clos$ & ! box heat$ 9 a wat] ba? to #dj or #ej ,c4 7#ajd-abb ,f474 ,! /op-cock ,h 9 tube ,r is n[ op5$4 ,?is admits melt$ fat or oil f a vessel above to ! fir/ comp>tm5t 9 :i* x rises ?r\gh ! basket fill$ ) fl[]s ^: odor x ab/racts4 ,! additional fat com+ f above drives x ov] ?r\gh ! op5+ ,o#b into comp>tm5t #b1 :]e x comes 9 contact ) fre% fl[]s1 passes ?r\gh ,o#c into ! ?ird comp>tm5t1 & s on ?r\gh #d & #e1 until x f9ally escapes ?r\gh ,r#a well *>g$ ) odor4 ,accord+ to requirem5ts a l>g] numb] ( comp>tm5ts may be employ$4 ,:5 all ! fat has pass$ ?r\gh ! app>atus1 x is op5$1 ! basket is remov$ f comp>tm5t #a1 ! basket f ,no4 #b is plac$ 9 #a1 t f #c 9 #b1 etc42 basket #a is empti$1 fill$ ) fre% fl[]s1 & plac$ 9 comp>tm5t #e1 s t e basket gradually passes ?r\gh all comp>tm5ts to ,no4 #a4 ,9 ?is way ! fat rapidly absorbs all ! odor4 ,! odor\s sub/ances are ab/ract$ f ! pomades or huiles antiques by treatm5t ) /rong alcohol 7#ij-ie7 :i* dissolves ! ess5tial oils b n ! fats4 ,! huiles antiques ) ! alcohol are plac$ 9 l>ge glass bottles & frequ5tly %ak54 ,9 ord] to ab/ract ! odors f pomades1 ! latt] are all[$ to congeal & are divid$ into small pieces :i* are ins]t$ into ! bottles ( alcohol4 ,a bett] plan is to fill ! pomades into a t9 cyl9d] ) a n>r[ op5+ 9 front & to express ! pomades1 by a well-fitt+ pi/on1 9 ! %ape ( a ?9 ?read :i* ?us pres5ts a l>ge surface to ! action ( ! alcohol1 ?us ha/5+ ! absorption ( ! odor4 ,! alcoholic solution obta9$ aft] "s weeks is !n di/ill$ (f at a l[ temp]ature4 ,we %all recur to ?is h]eaft]4 ,no matt] h[ long ! fats are left 9 contact ) alcohol1 !y d n yield up to x all ! odor1 b reta9 a small portion ( x & h5ce h a v fragrant smell4 ,!y are1 !re=e1 br\ght into comm]ce z p]fum$ oils or pomades be>+ ! "n ( ! odor\s sub/ance !y conta93 orange fl[]1 res$a pomade or oil1 etc42 !y are highly priz$ & are sometimes us$ aga9 = ! extraction ( ! same odor4 ,"s odors _c be> ev5 ! slight rise ( temp]ature necess>y = _! extraction by ! me?od ( mac]ation or infusion4 ,= ^! delicate odors "o ( ! foll[+ me?ods may be employ$4 ,,absorption ,,or ,,enfleurage4 ,9 ?is me?od ! absorb+ p[] ( fat is likewise us$ = reta9+ ! odors1 b ! fl[]s are treat$ ) ! fat at ord9>y temp]atures4 ,?is proc$ure :i* is employ$ especially 9 s\!rn ,france is c>ri$ out z foll[s4 ,! fat 7l>d7 is spread to a ?ickness ( ab\t "o-qu>t] in* on glass plates ,g "o y>d long & two feet wide1 :i* are ins]t$ 9 wood5 frames ,r & spr9kl$ ) fl[]s ,f 7,fig4 #ah74 ,! frames are sup]impos$ 7! cut %[s two ( ! frames7 & left = f "o to ?ree days1 :5 fre% fl[]s are sub/itut$ = ! wilt$ ones1 & s on until ! pomade has atta9$ ! desir$ /r5g?4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,?is proc$ure is v cumbr\s & t$i\s & !re=e _h bett] be modifi$ ?us3 ,9 an air-tight box ,k 7,fig4 #ai7 we place a l>g] numb] ( glass plates g cov]$ ) l>d drawn into f9e ?reads by means ( a syr+e4 ,?is box is connect$ ) a small] "o ,k#a :i* is fill$ ) fre% fl[]s & provid$ ) op5+s bel[ & above1 ,o & ,o#a4 ,! latt]1 ,o#a communicates by a tube ) box ,k1 at ^: upp] end is a tube e t]m9at+ 9 an exhau/ fan s t ! air mu/ pass ?r\gh ! app>atus 9 ! direction indicat$ by ! arr[s4 ,a small fan ,v driv5 by clockwork w answ]4 ,! air drawn f ,k#a is lad5 ) odors & 9 pass+ ov] ! fat z %[n by ! arr[s gives !m up completely to ! fat4 ,! use ( ?is app>atus has v important advantages3 ! absorption is effect$ rapidly1 requires little p[]1 & ! fl[]s d n come at all into contact ) ! fat :i* !re=e c take up no?+ b ! odors pres5t 9 ! air4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,in/ead ( *>g+ ! fat ) odors by ei!r "o ( ! me?ods "h describ$1 c>bonic acid c also be employ$ ) advantage1 by means ( ! app>atus illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #bj4 ,! l>ge glass vessel ,g conta9s pieces ( :ite m>ble ,m ^u :i* hydro*loric acid is p\r$ at int]vals ?r\gh ! funnel tube ,r4 ,a curr5t ( c>bonic acid is ?us develop$1 :i* passes ?r\gh a wa% bottle ,w fill$ ) wat]1 !n ?r\gh ! t9 vessel ,b conta9+ fre% fl[]s1 & f9ally into a bottle ,a fill$ ) /rong alcohol & set 9 cold wat]1 aft] :i* x escapes ?r\gh ! tube e4 ,! c>bonic acid absorbs ! aromatic vapors f ,b & leaves !m 9 ! alcohol :i* absorbs !m4 7,g1 ,r1 ,w are made ( glass1 ,b ( t947 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bj4 ,,extraction4 ,?is me?od is bas$ on ! fact t "s volatile liquids su* z e!r1 *lor(orm1 petroleum e!r1 or bisulphide ( c>bon possess ! prop]ty ( rapidly extract+ ! aromatic sub/ances f fl[]s2 :5 !y are evaporat$ at a g5tle heat !y leave ! pure odors beh9d4 ,9 our op9ion ?is process is ! be/ ( all = ! p]fum] & x is to be regrett$ t x is n m g5]ally us$4 ,z a rule we employ ei!r petroleum e!r or bisulphide ( c>bon 7see above1 pp4 #fe1 #ff7 because ^! products are *eap] ?an e!r or *lor(orm4 ,! app>atus we use = ?is purpose is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ba4 ,x consi/s ( a cyl9d] ,c made ( t9n$ iron1 :i* is provid$ above ) a circul> gutt] ,r t]m9at+ 9 a /op-cock h & :i* c be clos$ by a lid ,d be>+ a /op-cock o4 ,a tube b ) a /op-cock a ent]s ! bottom ( ! cyl9d]4 ,! latt] is fill$ ) ! fl[]s1 ! volatile liquid 7petroleum e!r1 bisulphide ( c>bon1 etc47 is p\r$ ov] !m1 ! lid is put on1 & ! gutt] ,r fill$ ) wat]1 !reby seal+ ! cont5ts ( ! vessel h]metically4 ,aft] ! extraction1 :i* requires ab\t ?irty to =ty m9utes1 /op-cock o is op5$ fir/1 !n /op-cock a1 & ! liquid is all[$ to escape into ! retort ( ! /ill 7,fig4 #ab74 ,if ! extraction is to be repeat$1 ! wat] is all[$ to escape f ! gutt] ?r\gh h1 ! lid is op5$1 & ! solv5t is aga9 p\r$ ov] ! fl[]s4 ,= op]ation on a l>g] scale ! glass retorts are too small & %\ld be replac$ by t9 vessels 7,fig4 #bb7 hav+ ! =m ( a wide-m\!d bottle ,f2 !y are clos$ by a lid ,d :i* is r5d]$ air tight by be+ clamp$ ^u ! flange ( ! vessel 7,r7 ) iron screws ,s1 a pa/ebo>d wa%] be+ int]pos$2 a curv$ glass tube connects ! app>atus ) ! cond5s] ( ,fig4 #ab4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,! solutions ( ! aromatic sub/ances are evaporat$ 9 ^! app>atuses at ! l[e/ possible temp]ature1 ! solv5t be+ cond5s$ & us$ ov] aga94 ,! heat requir$ is = e!r ab\t #cf ,c4 7#ig ,f471 = *lor(orm ab\t #fe ,c4 7#adi ,f471 = petroleum e!r ab\t #ef ,c4 7#acc ,f471 & = bisulphide ( c>bon ab\t #de ,c4 7#aac ,f474 ,if x is desir$ to obta9 ! aromatic sub/ances pure f an alcoholic extract ( ! pomades made by "o ( ! above-describ$ processes--:i* is r>ely done s9ce ^! solutions are g5]ally us$ z su* = p]fumes--a heat ( #ge to #hj ,c4 7#afg to #agf ,f47 is requir$4 ,ano!r extraction app>atus illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #bc is well adapt$ to op]ations on a l>ge scale4 ,its ma9 p>ts are ! extractor ,e & ! /ill ,b4 ,! =m] is set 9 a vat ,w cont9ually suppli$ ) cold wat]4 ,! /ill ,b is surr\nd$ ) hot wat] 9 ! boil] ,k4 ,to />t ! app>atus ! cone ,c is remov$1 ! vessel ,e is fill$ ) ! mat]ial to be extract$1 & ,c is replac$4 ,! faucets ,h#b & ,h#d are op5$1 ! solv5t is p\r$ into ! /ill ?r\gh ! latt]1 :5 ^! faucets are clos$ & ^? m>k$ ,h & ,h#a are op5$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bc4 ,! wat] 9 ,k is heat$ until ! cont5ts ( ,b are 9 brisk ebullition2 ! vapor rises ?r\gh ,,rh1 is cond5s$ on ent]+ ,e & falls 9 small drops on ! mat]ial4 ,?is f9e ra9 ( ! solv5t dissolves ! aromatic sub/ances & fl[s back into ,b1 :]e x is aga9 evaporat$1 & s on4 ,at ! end ( ! extraction ! faucets ,h & ,h#a are clos$ & ,h#b1 is op5$4 ,! vapors ( ! solv5t pass ?r\gh x into a worm :]e !y are cond5s$2 ! ess5tial oil rema9+ 9 ,b is dra9$ (f by op5+ ,h#c4 ,= /ill l>g] op]ations m p]fect app>atuses are employ$1 su* z ^? ( ,seiff]t & ,vohl4 ,seiff]t's app>atus 7,fig4 #bd7 consi/s ( a batt]y ( jacket$ cyl9d]s2 /eam circulates 9 ! space betwe5 ! cyl9d]s & ! jackets4 ,ea* cyl9d] conta9s a plate cov]$ ) a wire net on :i* ! fl[]s to be extract$ are plac$4 ,all ! cyl9d]s hav+ be5 fill$ & clos$1 ! solv5t is admitt$ f a conta9] above1 ?r\gh ,s & a into ,c#b2 :5 ?is is fill$ ! liquid fl[s ?r\gh a#b;b#c;cn into ,c4 ,! solution saturat$ ) ess5tial oil leaves ! app>atus ?r\gh dn & p & ent]s a res]voir4 ,! c\rse ( ! liquid is aid$ by ! suction ( an air-pump act+ on p4 ,:5 ! res]voir conta9s an am\nt ( fluid equal to t 9 ,cn1 dn is clos$1 an is op5$1 & ,c connect$ ) ,c#a ?r\gh bn & c#a4 ,t ! cont5ts ( ,c#b are completely extract$ is %[n by ! fact t ! liquid appe>s colorless 9 ! glass tube ins]t$ 9 b#b2 a#a & ,c#b are clos$2 a#b & ,c#c are op5$1 !reby exclud+ ,c#b f ! curr5t ( bisulphide ( c>bon :i* !n fl[s ?r\gh ,c#c;,cn,c#a4 ,9 ord] to p]mit ! free fl[ ( ! bisulphide ( c>bon ?r\gh ,s despite ! exclusion ( ,c#b1 ! faucets a#a;a#b;a#c;an mu/ be two-way cocks2 9 "o position !y connect ,s ) b2 9 ! o!r !y close b & leave ! passage ?r\gh ,s op54 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bd4 ,9 ord] to collect ! bisulphide ( c>bon pres5t 9 ! extract$ residue 9 ,c#b1 faucet g#b is op5$ & ! bisulphide ( c>bon all[$ to escape ?r\gh h4 ,! faucet e#b 9 tube ,l on be+ op5$ admits compress$ air to ,c#b1 ?us ha/5+ ! outfl[4 ,if no?+ escapes bel[1 faucets f#b & fx are op5$1 /eam ent]s ?r\gh tube ,d betwe5 jacket & cyl9d]2 ! bisulphide ( c>bon vapor passes ?r\gh g#b & h into ! worm4 ,aft] ! expulsion ( ! bisulphide ( c>bon1 ,c#c is empti$1 refill$1 connect$ ) ,c#a1 & bisulphide ( c>bon admitt$ f ,c#c 9 ! mann] above describ$4 ,an extraction app>atus :i* has be5 mu* recomm5d$ ( late is ! s-call$ 8,excelsior ,app>atus0 made by ,wegel9 & ,huebn]1 ,halle a4 ,s41 :i* c be work$ ) any desir$ solv5t4 ,! con/ruction ( ! app>atus 7,figs4 #be & #bf7 is z foll[s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #be4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,! solv5t is admitt$ to ! res]voir ,r 9 ! l[] "p ( ! cond5s] ,b ?r\gh ! tube indicat$ 9 ! figure4 ,! mat]ial to be extract$ hav+ be5 fill$ into ! cyl9d] ,a ?r\gh ! manhole1 ! app>atus is clos$4 ,! cold wat] is admitt$ to ! cond5s] by op5+ a faucet4 ,! ?ree-way cock %[n 9 ,fig4 #be is s plac$ z to op5 a communication ( ! ov]fl[ tube ) ,a4 ,! faucet at ! l[] end ( ! res]voir ,r is n[ op5$ suffici5tly & ! solv5t passes into ,a f above1 & z x desc5ds takes up m & m oil1 fl[s ?r\gh ! sieve-plate1 & escapes ?r\gh ! tube at ! bottom ( ,a ?r\gh ! ?ree-way cock1 ! ov]fl[ tube1 & ! dra9 tube into ! accumulator ,c4 ,! op5+ ( a faucet n[ admits /eam to ! heat+ coil1 :5 ! solv5t evaporates1 leav+ ! oil or fat beh9d4 ,x is cond5s$ 9 ,b1 aga9 returns to ,r1 :5ce x passes once m ?r\gh ! faucet into ! extractor ,a4 ,! vessel ,c & ! tubes lead+ to ,a & ,c are surr\nd$ ) felt to prev5t loss ( heat4 ,a sample tak5 f ! small cock at ! foot ( ,a 7x has a small plate 9 ! int]ior ( ! tube7 w %[ :5 ! extraction 9 ,a may be look$ ^u z f9i%$4 ,! solv5t is di/ill$ (f or recov]$ f ! residue 9 ,a 9 ! foll[+ mann]4 ,fir/ ! faucet 9 ,r is clos$4 ,! ?ree-way cock ,a is set to e/abli% direct communication betwe5 ,a & ,c1 ?us cutt+ (f ! ov]fl[ tube4 ,h5ce all ! solv5t 9 ,a fl[s into ,c = di/illation1 :ile ! oil is left beh9d4 ,/eam be+ admitt$ to ! residue1 ! solv5t rises z vapor ?r\gh ! upp] tube f ,a to ,b & collects 9 a liquid /ate 9 ,r4 ,to drive (f ! la/ traces ( ! solv5t f ! fat or oil obta9$1 /eam is bl[n into ,c by op5+ ! valve4 ,besides ! solv5t1 wat]y vapor ent]s ,b & =ms a lay] ( wat] 9 ,r "u ! solv5t4 ,by tak+ a sample f ! te/-cock ( ! res]voir ,c :i* has an int]nal small plate1 ! t]m9ation ( ! process is asc]ta9$4 ,! gauge tube at ! res]voir %[s ! level ( ! solv5t & wat]4 ,! wat] is drawn (f by op5+ ! faucet at ! l[] end ( ! res]voir4 ,a is empti$ ?r\gh ! manhole & by dra9+ ! oil f ,c ?r\gh ! dis*>ge cock4 ,! tube ,r is clos$ by a light valve s z to prev5t evaporation ( ! solv5t4 ,all ! app>atuses "w )\t pressure s t !re is no dang] f ov]/ra94 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bh4 ,! solutions ( ! ess5tial oils 9 bisulphide ( c>bon are di/ill$ (f 9 ! /eam /ill illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #bg2 ! /eam ent]s at h1 ! wat] ( cond5sation escapes at d1 ! liquid to be di/ill$ ent]s at e f a conta9] at a high] level4 ,! boil+ is kept uni=m by ! /irr+ arrangem5t hg4 ,aft] ! bisulphide ( c>bon is di/ill$ (f1 air is pass$ ?r\gh ! oil by ! curv$ tube a :i* has f9e p]=ations1 s z to evaporate ! la/ traces ( ! solv5t4 ,9 ,vohl's app>atus 7,fig4 #bh71 arrang$ = petroleum e!r1 ! extraction is effect$ ) ! boil+ fluid2 h5ce ?is app>atus is bett] adapt$ = ! *eap] oils ?an = ! f9e/ oils f fl[]s4 ,! app>atus consi/s ( two extractors ,a ,a1 ! accumulator ,b1 & ! cond5s] ,c4 ,petroleum e!r is all[$ to fl[ ov] ! sub/ances to be extract$1 by op5+ ! faucets mm1 vh1 clos+ ogw,e1 & op5+ o1 ! c\rse be+ ?r\gh ux to ,b4 ,:5 ,b is two-?irds full1 ! fl[ ( petroleum e!r is cut (f1 /eam is admitt$ ?r\gh y & ! cont5ts ( ,b are br\ght to ! boil+-po9t4 ,! vapors pass ?r\gh g & are cond5s$ 9 f until ! cont5ts ( ,a rea* ! boil+-po9t ( ! solv5t1 :5 ! vapors pass ?r\gh i into ,c1 & aft] clos+ m ! liquid passes ?r\gh ml into ! inn] cyl9d] ( ! extraction app>atus & returns ?r\gh uxx4 ,aft] ! cont5ts ( ,a are extract$1 m is op5$1 m clos$1 & /eam is admitt$ ?r\gh d into ! jacket ( ,a2 ! vapors ( ! solv5t =ce ! liquid "p ( ! cont5ts ?r\gh ux into ,b4 ,ov]fill+ ( ,b is prev5t$ by all[+ ! vapors ( ! solv5t to escape at ! prop] "t into ! cond5s] ?r\gh p by op5+ q4 ,!n v is clos$1 q op5$1 & ! /eam pres5t 9 ,a drawn (f by an exhau/ appli$ to p2 z soon z p beg9s to cool1 all ! petroleum e!r is di/ill$ (f1 ! /eam is cut (f at d1 & ! extract evacuat$ ?r\gh t4 ,! cont5ts ( ,b are br\ght into a /ill ?r\gh ,d & ,e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bi4 ,by employ+ great] pressure ! extraction c also be effect$ by :at is call$ displacem5t2 ! mat]ial to be extract$ is plac$ 9 a /\t-wall$ vessel ,s 7,fig4 #bi7 :i* is connect$ by a n>r[ tube at lea/ t5 y>ds long ) ! vessel ,f conta9+ ! solv5t4 ,/opcock ,h is fir/ op5$1 !n /op-cock ,h#a :i* is clos$ z soon z fluid beg9s to fl[ f x4 ,aft] ! liquid has rema9$ 9 contact ) ! mat]ial = f ?irty to sixty m9utes1 ,h#a is op5$ v sl[ly1 ! liquid is all[$ to escape & is displac$ ) wat] :i* is made to pass out ( ,f 9 ! same way z ! solv5t1 until ! latt] is completely displac$ f ,s4 ,aft] ! solv5t has be5 di/ill$ (f1 ! less volatile ess5tial oil rema9s 9 ! /ill almo/ pure1 conta9+ only traces ( wax1 vegetable fat or color+ matt] :i* are ( no consequ5ce = our purposes4 ,! la/ remnants ( ! solv5t _c be expell$ by di/illation1 b by =c+ ?r\gh ! ess5tial oil a curr5t ( pure air = fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes4 ,! ess5tial oils !n are ( ! pure/1 unexceptionable quality4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cj4 ,9 ! case ( delicate oils x is bett] to use c>bonic acid 9 place ( air = expell+ ! la/ traces ( ! solv5t1 z ! oxyg5 may impair ! delicacy ( ! fragrance4 ,= ?is purpose we use ! app>atus illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #cj4 ,9 ! l>ge bottle ,a c>bonic acid is g5]at$ by p\r+ hydro*loric acid ov] fragm5ts ( :ite m>ble4 ,! c>bonic acid passes into ! vessel ,b fill$ ) wat] :i* frees x f any adh]+ drops ( hydro*loric acid2 !n into ,c fill$ ) sulphuric acid to :i* x yields its wat] s t only pure c>bonic acid escapes ?r\gh ! f9e rose at ! end ( tube ,d :i* is made ( pure t91 & z x passes ?r\gh ! oil 9 ,e x c>ries (f ! la/ traces ( ! volatile solv5t4 ,9 its f9al passage ?r\gh ! wat] 9 ,f x leaves beh9d any oil t may h be5 c>ri$ ) x4 ,z all ! aromatic sub/ances *ange 9 air by ! gradual absorption ( oxyg51 & lose _! odor--become res9ifi$--^! co/ly sub/ances mu/ be put into small bottles :i* !y completely fill1 & be pres]v$ 9 a cool d>k place1 z light & heat favor res9ification4 ,! bottles mu/ be clos$ ) well-fitt+ glass /opp]s4 ,aromatic wat]s or eaux aromatises1 su* z jasm9e wat] 7eau de jasm971 orange-fl[] wat] 7eau de fleurs d'oranges1 eau triple de ,nroli1 aqua naph triplex71 etc41 are made by di/illation ( ^! fl[]s ) wat] & %[ a fa9t b v f9e odor4 ,:5 !y conta91 besides1 dilute alcohol !y are call$ spiritu\s wat]s or esprits4 ,^? br\ght into comm]ce f s\!rn ,france are ( excell5t quality4 ,,! ,,yield ,,( ,,ess5tial ,,oils4 ,! quantities ( ess5tial oil obta9able f ! vegetable sub/ances v>y ) ! am\nt pres5t 9 ea*4 ,! foll[+ table %[s ! av]age quantities ( oil to be obta9$ f #ajj p>ts ( mat]ial4 ,mat]ial4 ,"n ( ,plant4 ,mean ,yield p] #ajj ,p>ts4 ,aj[an se$ ,pty*otis ,aj[an #cjjj ,alant root ,inula ,hel5ium #jfjj ,allspice ,myrtus ,pim5ta #cejj ,almonds1 bitt] ,amygdala am>a #jdjj-jgjj ,angelica se$ ,ar*angelica (fic9alis #aaej ,angelica root1 ,?ur+4 #jgej ,saxon #ajjj ,anise se$1 ,russian ,pimp9ella ,anisum #bhjj ,?ur+4 #bdjj ,morav4 #bfjj ,anise se$1 ,*ili ,pimp9ella ,anisum #bdjj ,spani% #cjjj ,levant #acjj ,anise *aff #jfff ,arnica fl[]s ,arnica montana #jjdj ,arnica root #aajj ,asaftida ,f]ula ,asaftida #cbej ,av5s root ,geum urbanum #jjdj ,basilicum h]b1 fre% ,ocymum basilicum #jjdj ,bay leaves ,pim5ta acris #bcjj-bfjj ,be>'s b]ry ,uva ursi #ajaj ,bee* t> ,betula alba #bjjjj ,b]gamots ab4 #cdjj ,betel leaves ,pip] ,betle #jeej ,bitt] almond meal ,amygdala am>a #jiej ,bu*u leaves ,b>osma cr5ulata #bfjj ,butt]-bur oil ,tussilago ,petasites #jjef ,calamus root ,acorus ,calamus #bhjj ,camomile1 ,g]man ,matric>ia ,*amomilla #djjj-fjjj ,roman ,an!mis nobilis #cjjj ,c>away se$1 ,cult4 ,g]man ,c>um ,c>vi #djjj ,dut* #eejj ,ea/ ,prussian #ejjj ,moravian #ejjj ,wild ,g]man #fjjj-gjjj ,norwegian #fjjj-fejj ,russian #cjjj ,c>damoms1 ,ceylon ,elett>ia ,c>damomum #dbej ,madras #dcjj ,malab> #agej ,siam #acej ,c>rot se$ ,daucus ,c>ota #afej ,casc>illa b>k ,croton ,elut]ia #aejj ,cassia fl[]s ,c9namomum ,cassia #cejj ,cassia wood #jbhe ,c$> wood ,junip]us virg9ianus #jgjj-ajjj ,cel]y h]b ,apium graveol5s #jbjj ,cel]y se$ #jcjj ,*ekan leaves ,myrtus ,*ekan #ajjj ,c9namon1 ,ceylon ,c9namomum zeylanicum #jijj-abej :ite ,canella alba #ajjj ,cloves1 ,ambo9a ,c>yophyllus aromaticus #aijjj ,b\rbon #ahjjj ,zanzib> #agejj /ems #fjjj ,common wormwood h]b ,artemisia ,abrotanum #jjdj root #jajj ,copaiva balsam1 ,p>a ,copaif]a (fic9alis #dejjj ,ea/ ,ind4 ,dipt]oc>pus turb9atus #fejjj ,cori&] se$1 ,?ur+ian ,cori&rum sativum #jhjj ,russian #jijj ,dut* #jfjj ,ea/ ,indian #jaej ,italian #jgjj ,mogadore #jfjj ,crisp m9t h]b ,m5?a crispa #ajjj ,cubebs ,pip] ,cubeba #abjjj-afjjj ,culilaban b>k ,laurus ,culilavan #cdjj ,cum9 se$1 ,mogadore ,cum9um ,cym9um #cjjj ,maltese #cijj ,syrian #dbjj ,ea/ ,indian #bbej ,curcuma root ,curcuma longa #ebjj ,dill se$1 ,g]man ,ane?um graveol5s #chjj ,russian #djjj ,ea/ ,indian ,ane?um ,s[a #bjjj ,eld] fl[]s ,sambucus nig] #jjbe ,elemi res9 ,icica ,abilo #agjjj ,eucalyptus leaves1 dry ,eucalyptus globulus #cjjj ,f5nel se$1 ,saxon ,fo5iculum vulg>e #ejjj-efjj ,galician #fjjj ,ea/ ,indian ,fo5iculum ,panmorium #bbjj ,galanga root ,alp9ia ,galanga #jgej ,galbanum res9 ,galbanum (fic9ale #fejj ,g]anium ,pel>gonium odoratissimum #jaae ,g+] root1 ,african ,z+ib] (fic9ale #bfjj ,b5gal #bjjj ,japan #ahjj ,co*9 ,*9a #aijj ,hazel root ,as>um europum #aajj ,h]acleum se$ ,h]acleum ,sphondylium #ajjj ,hop fl[]s ,humulus ,lupulus #jgjj ,hop meal1 lupul9 #bbej ,hyssop h]b ,hyssopa (fic9alis #jdjj ,iva h]b ,iva mos*ata #jdjj ,junip] b]ries1 ,g]man ,junip]us communis #jejj-jgjj ,italian #aajj-abjj ,hung>ian #ajjj-aajj ,laurel b]ries ,laurus nobilis #ajjj ,laurel leaves #bdjj ,laurel1 ,cali=nian ,oreodaphne cali=nica #gfjj ,lav5d] fl[]s1 ,g]man ,lav&ula v]a #bijj ,l9aloe wood ,elaphrium graveol5s #ejjj ,lovage root ,levi/icum (fic9ale #jfjj ,mace ,myri/ica fragrans #aajjj-afjjj ,m>joram h]b1 fre% ,origanum ,majorana #jcej dry #jijj ,m>%-rosem>y oil ,l$um palu/re #jcej ,massoy b>k ,massoia aromatica ,ma/]wort root ,imp]atoria ,o/ru?ium #jhjj ,matico leaves ,pip] angu/ifolium #bdjj ,matric>ia h]b ,matric>ia ,p>!nium #jjcj ,melissa h]b ,melissa (fic9alis #jajj ,mi*elia b>k ,mi*elia nilagirica #jcjj ,milfoil h]b ,a*illea ,millefolium #jjhj ,musk se$ ,hibiscus ,abelmos*us #jbjj ,mu/>d se$1 ,dut* ,s9apis nigra #jhej ,g]man #jgej ,ea/ ,indian #jeij ,pugliese #jgej ,mu/>d se$1 ,russian ,s9apis juncea #jejj ,myrrh ,balsamod5dron ,myrrha #bejj-fejj ,myrtle ,myrtus communis #jbge ,nigella se$ ,nigella sativa #jcjj ,nutmegs ,myri/ica fragrans #hjjj-ajjjj ,olibanum res9 ,boswellia1 v>4 spec #fcjj ,opoponax res9 ,pa/9aca ,opoponax #fejj ,orange peel1 sweet ,citrus ,aurantium #bejj ,orris root ,iris flor5t9a #jbjj ,p>sley h]b ,apium ,petrosel9um #jcjj ,p>sley se$ #cjjj ,p>snip se$ ,pa/9aca sativa #bdjj ,pat*\ly h]b ,pogo/emon ,pat*\ly #aejj-djjj ,pea* k]nels ,amygdalus p]sica #jhjj-ajjj ,pellitory root ,val]iana celtia #ajjj ,pepp]1 black ,pip] nigrum #bbjj ,pepp]m9t1 fre% ,m5?a pip]ita #jcjj ,pepp]m9t1 dry #ajjj-abej ,p]u balsam ,toluif]a ,p]eir #jdjj ,pimp]nel root ,pimp9ella saxifraga #jjbe ,popl> spr\ts ,populus nig] #jejj ,rhodium wood ,convolvulus ,scop>ius #jjej ,rose fl[]s1 fre% ,rosa c5tifolia #jjej ,rosem>y ,rosm>9us (fic9alis #aeej ,rue h]b ,ruta graveol5s #jahj ,sage h]b1 ,g]man ,salvia (fic9alis #adjj ,italian #agjj ,santal wood1 ,ea/ ,indian ,santalum album #dejj ,macass> #bejj ,we/ ,indian ,unkn[n #bgjj ,sassafras wood ,sassafras (fic9alis #bfjj ,sav9 h]b ,junip]us ,sab9a #cgej ,snak]oot1 ,canadian ,as>um canad5se #bhjj-cbej ,virg9ian ,ari/olo*ia ,s]p5t>ia #bjjj ,/>-anise1 ,*9ese ,illicium anisatum #ejjj ,japanese ,illicium religiosum #ajjj ,/orax ,liquidamb> ori5talis #ajjj ,sumbul root ,f]ula ,sumbul #jcjj ,tansy h]b ,tanacetum vulg>e #jaej ,?yme ,?ymus ,s]pyllum #jbjj dry #jajj ,val]ian root1 ,g]man ,val]iana (fic9alis #jiej ,dut* #ajjj ,japan ,patr9ia scabiosfolia ,vetiv] root ,&ropogon muricatus #jbjj-jcej ,violet fl[]s ,viola odorata #jjcj ,wat]-y>r[ se$ ,phell&rium aquaticum #acjj ,w9t]sweet m>joram ,origanum creticum #cejj ,worm se$ ,artemisia m>itima #bjjj ,wormwood h]b ,artemisia ,abs9?ium #jcjj-jdjj ,z$o>y root ,curcuma ,z$o>ia #acjj ,fre% fl[]s z a rule conta9 m aromatic mat]ial ?an wilt$ ones2 ! yield ( dri$ h]bs1 leaves1 etc41 is usually great] ?an t ( ! fre%1 because ! latt] conta9 mu* wat] :i* is lo/ 9 dry+4 ,:5 su* vegetable mat]ials _c be work$ fre%1 :i* is be/1 !y %\ld be completely dri$1 spread on bo>ds1 at a mod]ate temp]ature 9 ! %ade & pres]v$ 9 dry airy rooms1 special c>e be+ _h to gu>d aga9/ m\ld4 ,,*apt] ,,viii4 ,,! ,,special ,,*>act]i/ics ,,( ,,aromatic ,,sub/ances4 ,9 a prec$+ *apt] on ! *emical prop]ties ( ! vegetable sub/ances _m ( _! *>act]i/ics h be5 describ$4 ,9 ?is place we ne$ only describe ! physical prop]ties ( ! ess5tial oils1 & ) "s ( !m to lay /ress on ^? peculi>ities by :i* !y are specially diff]5tiat$4 ,?is k is ( ! greate/ importance to ! manufactur] ( p]fum]y because no s+le individual is 9 a position to prep>e all aromatic sub/ances himself1 b mu/ rely on comm]ce = "s ( !m2 & 9 no gr\p ( *emicals is adult]ation z frequ5t & z difficult ( demon/ration z among ! aromatics4 ,^! adult]ations are c>ri$ s f> t _m ess5tial oils occurr+ 9 comm]ce "u c]ta9 names (t5 h no?+ 9 common ) ! sub/ance = :i* !y are sold b ! "n4 ,,oil ,,( ,,cassie4 ,! oil ( ,acacia f>nesiana is gre5i%-yell[ & viscid2 ! d5sity & boil+-po9t1 :i* are ( ! greate/ importance ) ref]5ce to ! g5u95ess ( an ess5tial oil1 are n yet accurately kn[n4 ,moreov]1 ?is oil nev] occurs 9 comm]ce z su*1 b its odor is pres5t 9 p]fumes1 fix$ oils1 & pomades4 ,,oil ,,( ,,anise %\ld be colorless or fa9tly yell[2 a d>k yell[ color indicates old & inf]ior quality4 ,! *>act]i/ics ( ?is oil are ! odor1 its aromatic sweet ta/e1 & especially ! prop]ty ( solidify+ at a comp>atively high temp]ature1 #aj-ae ,c4 7#ej-ei ,f471 :i* is due to ! sep>ation ( a /e>opt51 ane?ol4 ,oil ( anise is frequ5tly adult]at$ ) or replac$ by oil ( />-anise4 ,! easy solidification ( ! oil ( anise is n always pro( ( its good quality1 = ! oil f anise *aff1 :i* congeals at a /ill high] temp]ature1 is sometimes mix$ ) x1 & ?is has a less f9e odor ?an t di/ill$ f ! se$4 ,"o "p by weight ( oil ( anise is soluble 9 an equal weight ( alcohol ( #id4 ,,oil ,,( ,,b]gamot has a pale yell[ color :i* becomes gre5i% :5 ! oil is kept 9 copp] vessels1 & a /rong agreeable odor4 ,?is oil requires ! greate/ c>e 9 its pres]vation1 z x ab/racts oxyg5 f ! air ) extreme rapidity1 :5 x *anges its sup]ior odor s t x c h>dly be di/+ui%$ f oil ( turp5t9e4 ,,oil ,,( ,,bitt] ,,almond 7,,oleum ,,amygdale ,,am>71 :5 pure1 is a colorless1 refractive liquid :i* is heavi] ?an wat]4 ,! vessels 9 :i* ?is product is pres]v$ mu/ be /opp]$ air-tight1 = 9 ! air ! oil v quickly *anges into a :ite1 odorless mass ( cry/als consi/+ ( b5zoic acid4 ,oil ( bitt] almond is =m$ by ! action ( ! amygdal9 ^u ! emuls9 pres5t 9 ! fruit1 bitt]-almond meal be+ depriv$ ( fat & left 9 contact ) wat] = "s h\rs at f #dj-de ,c4 7#ajd-aac ,f474 ,besides oil ( bitt] almond1 sug> & prussic acid are likewise =m$4 ,! crude oil di/ill$ f ! meal is fre$ f ! prussic acid by agitation ) f]r\s *loride & lime-wat]1 & r$i/illation4 ,,oil ,,( ,,cajeput 7,,oleum ,,cajuputi7 has usually a gre5i% color1 & has a burn+1 camphorace\s & at ! same "t cool+ ta/e4 ,x has a peculi> odor resembl+ t ( camphor & rosem>y4 ,,oil ,,( ,,calamus 7,,oleum ,,calami74 ,?is oil1 :i* is v viscid & ( a yell[ or r$di% color1 mu/ usually be mix$ ) o!r ess5tial oils 9 ord] to furni% pleasant p]fumes4 ,,oil ,,( ,,*amomile 7,,oleum ,,*amomill74 ,oil ( *amomile1 f ,matric>ia ,*amomilla 7common *amomile71 :i* is specially *>act]iz$ by its magnific5t d>k-blue color1 has a m>k$ n>cotic odor & is v high-pric$1 ow+ to ! small yield ( oil by ! fl[]s4 ,! oil f ,an!mis nobilis 7,roman *amomile7 has also a blue color :i* gradually becomes gre5i%-yell[4 ,,camphor 7,,camphora74 ,?is ess5tial oil diff]s f ! o!rs ma9ly by be+ firm & cry/all9e at ord9>y temp]atures4 ,*9ese or ,japanese camphor melts at #age ,c4 7#cdg ,f47 & boils at #bje ,c4 7#dja ,f474 ,camphor is seldom us$ alone1 z its odor is h>dly fragrant2 b x f9ds frequ5t application 9 ! prep>ation ( m\? wa%es1 toilet v9eg>s1 etc4 ,9 comm]ce s-call$ ,borneo camphor is also met ) 7?\gh r>ely71 :i* closely resembles ! ,*9ese 9 appe>ance & o!r qualities1 b is m friable & melts at #ahi ,c4 7#chhd ,f474 ,,oil ,,( ,,casc>illa is n us$ pure 9 p]fum]y1 ! b>k be+ g5]ally employ$ in/ead4 ,,oil ,,( ,,cassia 7,,oleum ,,cassi7 has a yell[ color1 gradually becom+ d>k r$di%-br[n1 & an odor resembl+ t ( oil ( c9namon1 b ! odor is n s f9e1 nor s /rong1 z t ( ! latt]4 ,! ta/e ( ! oil is ( special importance3 :ile t ( true oil ( c9namon is burn+ ?\gh sweet1 oil ( cassia has a %>p] ta/e1 & ?is ta/e is consid]$ by "s a good m>k ( recognition ( ! r common adult]ation ( true oil ( c9namon :i* is mu* m co/ly4 ,,oil ,,( ,,c$>4 ,?is oil1 obta9$ f ! wood ( ! ,junip]us virg9iana 7n f ! true c$>1 ,c$rus ,libani71 is cle> l wat]1 has a pleasant odor1 & diff]s f mo/ ess5tial oils by congeal+ at a v l[ temp]ature 7-#bb ,c4 or-#h ,f47 & by its uncommon res9ification 9 contact ) air4 ,,oil ,,( ,,citron4 ,oil ( citron is usually m]ely a synonym = 8oil ( lemon40 ,b 9 p]fum]y x has be5 cu/om>y to designate ! oil ( lemon :i* 0 extract$ by ! cuelle process1 z 8oil ( citron-ze/e0 or 8oil ( citron10 :ile 8oil ( lemon0 meant ! di/ill$ oil4 ,s9ce !re is no difficulty at ! pres5t "t 9 obta9+ all ! h&-press$ oil t may be requir$1 & ( ! f9e/ quality1 !re is no long] any necessity = mak+ ! be=e-m5tion$ di/9ction4 ,,oil ,,( ,,lemon 7,,oleum ,,limonis1 ,,oleum ,,citri7 is "o ( ! mo/ important ess5tial oils = ! p]fum] z well z ! manufactur] ( liqueurs1 confection]1 etc4 ,! oil is pale yell[1 & ( a v /rong refre%+ odor :i* x loses rapidly 9 contact ) ! air1 :5 x acquires a disagreeable odor ( turp5t9e & gradually res9ifies4 ,?is *ange is p>ticul>ly m>k$ "u ! influ5ce ( light4 ,its spec4 grav4 is #jhej at #bj ,c4 7#fh ,f474 ,x is soluble 9 an equal volume ( /rong alcohol or glacial acetic acid4 ,! h&-press$ oil has a mu* f9] aroma ?an t obta9$ by di/illation4 ,,oil ,,( ,,citronella4 ,?is oil is h>dly ev] made 9 ,europe1 s9ce x is import$ 9 excell5t quality & at l[ prices f ,india & especially ! isl& ( ,ceylon4 7,see above1 p4 #bi47 ,,oil ,,( ,,lemon-,,grass4 ,?is oil1 :i* is import$ 9 consid]able quantities f ,india 7*iefly ,ceylon71 is colorless & possesses a v pleasant odor ( lemon :i* at ! same "t recalls t ( roses & /ill m t ( g]anium1 :i* is n r>ely adult]at$ ) x4 7,see above1 p4 #cc47 ,,oil ,,( ,,cori&] 7,,oleum ,,cori&ri7 has a pale yell[ color & a burn+1 %>p1 aromatic ta/e4 ,l oil ( cubebs 7oleum cubeb71 oil ( dill 7oleum ane?i71 & oil ( f5nel 7oleum fniculi7 :i* latt] also has a r l[ congeal+ po9t 7-#h ,c4 or #ag ,f471 ?is oil is us$ less 9 p]fum]y ?an = sc5t+ soap & 9 ! manufacture ( liqueurs4 ,b x %\ld be not$ t ^! oils1 z well z ^? ( b]gamot1 c>away1 />-anise1 & "s o!rs1 c\ld well be employ$ = *eap p]fumes & = sc5t+ soap4 ,oil ( dill also f9ds application alone 9 ! prep>ation ( "s face wa%es1 & ! dri$ f5nel h]b 9 *eap sa*ets4 ,,oil ,,( ,,lilac c be made at slight co/ f ! fl[]s1 z ! raw mat]ial is obta9able )\t mu* tr\ble2 x =ms a yell[1 /rong-sc5t$ oil4 ,9 p]fum]y1 h[ev]1 use is g5]ally made only ( ! pomade made f ! fre% fl[]s or ! alcoholic extract prep>$ f x4 ,or else ! odor is imitat$ by means ( t]p9eol1 :i* is n[ on ! m>ket "u ! "n ( lilac94 ,,oil ,,( ,,g]anium4 ,x is necess>y to di/+ui% cle>ly betwe5 oil ( true g]anium di/ill$ 9 ,s\!rn ,france & ,algi]s f species ( ,pel>gonium2 & ,turki% oil ( g]anium1 also kn[n z ,palm>osa oil1 oil ( g]anium grass1 oil ( ,rusa grass1 etc41 :i* is di/ill$ 9 ,india f g+] grass4 7,see above1 p4 #cc47 ,! fir/-m5tion$ oil has a mu* f9] aroma ?an ! second4 ,! two oils are frequ5tly conf\nd$1 ev5 9 prom95t works ( ref]5ce4 ,:5 oil ( g]anium or ( rose g]anium is direct$ to be us$1 ! ,fr5* 7or ,alg]ian1 or ,spani%7 oil %\ld be employ$4 ,^! co/ m ?an twice z mu* z ! s-call$ ,turki% or palm>osa oil4 ,,oil ,,( ,,heliotrope4 ,?is oil :i* does n yet occur 9 comm]ce 7we f9d m]ely ! pomade & ! alcoholic extract ( ! latt]7 has be5 made by ! au?or exp]im5tally2 ! mo/ suitable me?od 0 f\nd to be extraction ) petroleum e!r4 ,z ! plant1 ,heliotropium p]uvianum1 ! s\rce ( ?is delightful odor1 is frequ5tly cultivat$ 9 our g>d5s1 ! prep>ation ( ! oil by ?is me?od is to be recomm5d$1 be+ less exp5sive & m rapid ?an by ! use ( fat1 :ile ! product obta9$ ) petroleum e!r is z f9e z t extract$ by alcohol f ! pomade4 ,,oil ,,( ,,eld] 7,,oleum ,,sambuci74 ,! rem>k made "u ! head ( oil ( lilac applies equally to ?is oil4 ,= ! b5efit ( ^? :o wi% to make ?is oil 9 its pure =m we may add t x is absolutely necess>y to select only ! fre%e/ fl[]s1 o!rwise ! odor w be v mu* impair$4 ,,oil ,,( ,,jasm9e1 n to be conf\nd$ ) ! oil ( ,syr+a or ,g]man jasm9e 7,philadelphus coron>ius71 is colorless or yell[i% & has a v /rong1 almo/ n>cotic odor4 ,x is "o ( ! mo/ valuable & at ! same "t mo/ exp5sive aromatic sub/ances employ$ 9 p]fum]y4 ,g5u9e oil ( jasm9e c be obta9$ only f ,s\!rn ,france at v high prices4 ,:at is usually sold z 8oil ( jasm9e0 is a fix$ oil impregnat$ ) ! aroma ( jasm9e4 ,,oil ,,( ,,*]ry-,,laurel is n us$ z su* 9 p]fum]y2 at mo/ *]ry-laurel wat] may be employ$4 ,b z ?is has ! odor ( oil ( bitt] almond & z ! pres5ce ( "s prussic acid1 on acc\nt ( :i* ! (fic9al *]ry-laurel wat] is us$1 is ( no value to ! p]fum] & is1 9 fact1 undesirable1 ow+ to its poison\s quality1 we sub/itute 9 all cases a correspond+ quantity ( oil ( bitt] almond = *]ry-laurel wat]4 ,,oil ,,( ,,culilaban 7,,oleum ,,culilavani7 is light br[n1 some:at viscid2 ! odor recalls t ( ! oils ( c9namon1 sassafras1 & clove4 ,x has be5 us$ = sc5t+ soap4 ,,oil ,,( ,,c>away 7,,oleum ,,c>i7 is light yell[ & has an aromatic odor & burn+ ta/e4 ,9 p]fum]y x is us$ only = v *eap odors & = sc5t+ soap2 x f9ds its *ief application 9 ! manufacture ( liqueurs4 ,,oil ,,( ,,lav5d] 7,,oleum ,,lav&ul74 ,?is oil is ( great importance to ! p]fum] & is import$ 9 unsurpass$ quality f ,engl& 7,mit*am72 x is light yell[1 has a burn+ %>p ta/e1 & is exce$+ly s5sitive to light & air1 "u ! action ( :i* x loses its refre%+ odor 9 a v brief "t & acquires a common smell recall+ t ( turp5t9e4 ,! buy] ( ?is oil %\ld take c>e to secure ! true oil ( lav5d] 7f ,lav&ula v]a72 = ! oil ( spike-lav5d] is sold "u ! same "n4 ,?is1 prep>$ f ,lav&ula ,spica1 has a simil> odor to ! g5u9e1 b _c be comp>$ ) x 9 delicacy4 ,= ?is reason1 too1 ! diff]5ce 9 ! price betwe5 ! two is consid]able4 ,true ,engli% oil ( lav5d] co/s t5 times z mu* z oil ( spike-lav5d]4 ,! ,engli% br& ( ! true oil is ( s excell5t a quality t x br+s f\r or five times z mu* z ! be/ ,fr5* oil1 :i* is sold "u ! "n ( huile de lav&e des ,alpes4 ,yet dur+ ! la/ decade or s ! ,fr5* oil ( lav5d] fl[]s has become s mu* improv$ 9 quality t x has become a s]i\s rival to ! ,mit*am oil4 ,,oil ,,( ,,wallfl[] made f ! fl[]s ( ! well-kn[n g>d5 plant1 & ,,oil ,,( ,,lily likewise f ! ornam5tal plant1 are1 /range to say1 n manufactur$ 9 any place1 to our k4 ,exp]im5ts made by u 9 ?is direction prove t ! odors ( ^! plants c be obta9$ ei!r by absorption or1 m readily1 by extraction4 ,! p]fumes ?us f> occurr+ "u ^! names are always comb9ations ( diff]5t sc5ts :i*1 ?\gh pleasant1 h b little 9 common ) ! plants ^: names !y be>4 ,9 ?is connection we may say t ! p]fumes sold "u ! names ( v>i\s fl[]s (t5 h no relation to !m1 b are mixtures ( v>i\s odors4 ,:ile x _c be d5i$ t p]fumes may be made 9 ?is mann] :i* resemble ^? ( ! respective plants1 x is unque/ionably an imp]fection 9 ! art ( p]fum]y t ^! odors are n really made f ! fl[]s m5tion$4 ,to give ano!r *>act]i/ic in/ance1 we may add t ! delightful odor ( ! well-kn[n lily ( ! valley 7,convall>ia majalis7--a plant :i* gr[s wild abundantly 9 _m ( our =e/s--has n yet be5 produc$1 & t ev5 imitations ( ?is odor1 :i* 9 delicacy & fragrance /&s next to ^? ( ! rose & violet1 are seldom met ) 9 comm]ce4 ,,oil ,,( ,,lemon 7,,oleum ,,limonis71 obta9$ f ! fruits ( ! lemon-tree1 is "o ( ! mo/ important products1 bo? /ati/ically & economically1 ( ! ,citrus family4 ,9 ,g]man works !re is (t5 a confusion betwe5 8oil ( citron0 & 8oil ( lemon10 x be+ suppos$ by ! au?ors t ! 8,citron5-l0 is d]iv$ f ! citron 7,citrus m$ica71 & ! 8,limon5-l0 f ! lemon 7,citrus ,limonum74 ,!re is1 inde$1 "s oil made1 occasionally1 f ! citron1 b x does n figure 9 price-li/s4 ,! oil ( ! lemon1 on ! o!r h&1 is v commonly call$ 8,citron5-l10 & ! fruit itself 8,citrone40 ,h5ce1 :5 8,citron5-l0 is quot$ 9 a =mula1 x may be assum$ at once t oil ( lemon is int5d$4 ,x is v liable to res9ify1 :5 x loses its fragrance4 ,,oil ,,( ,,sweet ,,bay 7,,laurel7 7,,oleum ,,lauri7 is gre51 & usually mix$ ) ! fix$ oil ( ! same plant4 ,x f9ds m frequ5t application 9 ! manufacture ( liqueurs ?an 9 p]fum]y2 b z x has a pleasant odor x might well be us$ = *eap p]fumes4 ,b 9 t ev5t x mu/ be fre$ f ! fix$ oil by di/illation4 ,,oil ,,( ,,magnolia1 likewise1 has n yet be5 prep>$ z su*4 ,! rem>ks made above "u ! head ( oils ( lily & wallfl[] apply also to ?is odor4 ,! s-call$ magnolia p]fumes are mixtures ( diff]5t odors4 ,,oil ,,( ,,m>joram 7,,oleum ,,majoran74 ,oil ( m>joram1 :i* is obta9$ by di/illation f ! dri$ h]b1 has a /rong aromatic odor4 ,x is m5tion$ z hav+ (t5 be5 us$ 9 p]fum]y = sc5t+ soap in/ead ( oil ( ?yme1 ^: odor1 moreov]1 is v simil> to t ( m>joram1 b ?is is a mi/ake1 due to ! fact t ord9>y oil ( ?yme has long be5 sold "u ! "n ( oil ( origanum4 ,true oil ( m>joram co/s ab\t twelve doll>s a p\nd1 :ile oil ( ?yme 7s-call$ oil ( origanum7 is wor? only ab\t eighty c5ts4 ,x is r>ely employ$ = volatile p]fumes4 ,,oil ,,( ,,melissa4 ,! oil ( ,melissa (fic9alis1 ow+ to ! v small yield1 is q exp5sive4 ,x is us$ only = ! prep>ation ( "s p]fumes :i* owe _! peculi> qualities to ?is /rong odor4 ,?is oil mu/ n be conf\nd$ ) ! spuri\s oil ( melissa1 also call$ oil ( citron-melissa1 :i* is id5tical ) oil ( lemon grass 7see page #cj74 ,,oils ,,( ,,m9t4 ,al?\gh all ! m9ts possess an agreeable odor1 only ?ree v>ieties f9d ext5sive application4 ,!re are ! oils f ,m5?a pip]ita1 pepp]m9t2 ,m5?a viridis1 spe>m9t2 & ,m5?a crispa1 crispm9t4 ,! oils ( ,engli% manufacture are highly e/eem$1 b ! ,unit$ ,/ates also produces !m ( excell5t quality4 ,at "o "t ! cultivation ( m9ts1 p>ticul>ly pepp]m9t1 0 greatly ext5d$1 ) ! expectation ( d]iv+ satisfactory pr(it f ! ent]prise4 ,x has1 h[ev]1 be5 conclusively %[n t ! m>ket _c absorb m ?an a c]ta9 quantity ( ^! products2 & t any ov]-production br+s loss & disappo9tm5t to ! inve/or4 ,beside ! ?ree k9ds ( m9t above m5tion$1 !re is ano!r species1 ,m5?a arv5sis1 a native ( ,japan1 :i* is ext5sively cultivat$ !re1 & is ! *ief s\rce ( ! m5?ol ( comm]ce1 s well kn[n z an effici5t rem$y = neuralgia1 migra9e1 etc41 9 =m ( m5?ol cones4 ,! ?ree v>ieties ( ! m9t oils previ\sly m5tion$ are di/+ui%$1 aside f _! pleasant odor1 by ! prop]ty ( leav+ a v refre%+ & cool+ ta/e 9 ! m\?1 & = ?is reason !y =m ! mo/ important con/itu5t ( all f9e m\? wa%es4 ,true oil ( pepp]m9t1 ,oleum ,m5? pip]it1 :5 pure is colorless1 v mobile1 ( a burn+ %>p ta/e :i* is foll[$ by a peculi> coolness4 ,! comm]cial product is usually pale gre54 ,oil ( crispm9t1 ,oleum ,m5? crisp1 :i* 9 ,europe is (t5 sold to novices z oil ( pepp]m9t1 has always a m or less yell[ color & resembles ! oil ( pepp]m9t 9 its prop]ties1 b x is less f9e & *eap]4 ,! same is true ( ! oil ( spe>m9t1 b ?is has a v *>act]i/ic odor & ta/e1 di/9ctly diff]5t f pepp]m9t4 ,z above /at$1 ! oils ( m9t are ext5sively us$ = m\? wa%es1 also = sc5t+ soap1 9 liqueurs & pa/ils1 b r>ely 9 h&k]*ief p]fumes4 ,,oils ,,( ,,mace ,,& ,,nutmeg 7,,oleum ,,macidis ,,& ,,oleum ,,myri/ic74 ,^! oils are prep>$ ei!r f ! se$ coat 7,oleum ,macidis7 or ! nutmeg itself 7,oleum ,myri/ic74 ,oil ( mace g5]ally has a yell[i%-r$ color 9 t9t v>y+ f d>k to light & ev5 colorless4 ,its ta/e is agreeable & mild & ! odor exce$+ly /rong4 ,l oil ( nutmeg1 x is ext5sively us$ 9 ! manufacture ( liqueurs & = sc5t+ soap4 ,! oil prep>$ by di/illation f ! nutmeg is1 :5 fre%1 almo/ colorless or at mo/ fa9tly yell[1 ( a burn+ %>p ta/e1 & an aromatic odor4 ,l oil ( mace1 x is us$ 9 ! manufacture ( liqueurs & soaps & also 9 _m p]fumes4 ,9 ,india a ?ird valuable product is obta9$ f ! nutmeg by expression ( ! ripe fruits & is call$ nutmeg butt]4 ,?is is bright yell[ & consi/s ( a true fat & an ess5tial oil4 ,its odor is v pleasant & a v sup]ior soap c be made by saponification ( ?is valuable product ) soda lye4 ,,oil ,,( ,,myrtle4 ,?is oil is ( a gre5i% color & v mobile1 b x is n a comm]cial product2 ! manufactur] mu/ prep>e ! oil himself f ! leaves1 ?\gh ! yield is small4 ,! articles sold z s-call$ ess5ce ( myrtle are always mixtures ( diff]5t odors4 ,s\!rn ,france1 h[ev]1 exports at high prices a myrtle wat] 7eau des anges7 :i* is really made by di/illation ( ! leaves ) wat]4 ,,oil ,,( ,,n>cissus4 ,z to ! odor to :i* ?is fl[] owes its fragrance we may repeat :at we h said j n[ ) ref]5ce to ! oil ( myrtle3 we h nev] succe$$ 9 obta9+ ?is oil 9 comm]ce4 ,! s-call$ ess5ce ( n>cissus1 ?\gh a v pleasant mixture1 conta9s no trace ( ! true oil4 ,z to ,,oil ,,( ,,p9k1 ! same rem>k applies3 ! compositions sold "u ! "n ( ess5ce d'illet1 h[ev]1 h a v /rik+ odor ( p9k4 ,,oil ,,( ,,clove 7,,oleum ,,c>yophylli74 ,?is oil :5 fre% is colorless1 b soon becomes yell[i% or br[n4 ,x is heavi] ?an wat] 9 :i* x s9ks & is *>act]iz$ by an exce$+ly /rong burn+ ta/e & a spicy odor4 ,x rema9s at lea/ p>tly fluid at a v l[ temp]ature1 namely1-#bj ,c4 7-#d ,f474 ,,oil ,,( ,,orange ,,fl[]s 7,,oleum ,,naph1 ,,oleum ,,n]oli71 comm]cially kn[n also "u ! ,fr5* names huile de fleurs d'oranges1 huile nroli1 huile nroli ptale1 is obta9$ f ! fl[]s ( ! orange-tree 9 ,s\!rn ,france1 :]e ! orange is specially plant$ = ?is purpose4 ,! odor ( ! oil v>ies ) ! mode ( its prep>ation2 t obta9$ by di/illation ) wat] has a diff]5t odor f t made by mac]ation ) fat & extraction ) alcohol4 ,! latt] v>iety ( oil z su*1 h[ev]1 is n f\nd 9 comm]ce1 ! alcoholic extract ent]+ at once into ! composition ( ! p]fumes4 ,! ,fr5* manufactur]s ( ?is oil1 :i* is ( great importance 9 p]fum]y1 di/+ui% sev]al v>ieties4 ,! mo/ valuable is ! oil f ! fl[]s ( ,citrus vulg>is 7or ,citrus ,big>adia71 ! true bitt] orange 7or ,seville orange7 tree4 ,?is is ! s-call$ nroli big>ade4 ,t call$ nroli ptale is obta9$ f ! same fl[]s c>efully depriv$ ( _! floral envelopes1 s t only ! petals are subject$ to di/illation4 ,mu* *eap] ?an ^! two is ! oil ( petit gra9 :i* is di/ill$ f ! leaves & sometimes also unripe fruits ( v>i\s trees ( ! ,citrus ord]4 ,all ^! oils are among ! mo/ delicate2 :5 fre% !y are colorless & h a peculi> bitt] ta/e2 expos$ to light & air !y assume a r$di% t9t & und]go rapid res9ification4 ,!y %\ld1 !re=e1 be pres]v$ 9 p>ticul>ly well-clos$ vessels 9 a d>k1 cool place4 ,n to be conf\nd$ ) ^! oils is ! ,,oil ,,( ,,orange1 ( :i* !re are two k9ds1 "o f ! bitt] orange1 kn[n also z ,oil ( ,orange1 ,big>ade1 & ! o!r f ! sweet orange1 also kn[n z ,oil ( ,portugal4 ,bo? are extract$ f ! peel ( ! fruit by me*anical means4 ,bo? oils ( orange peel are gold5 yell[1 & h a pleasant1 refre%+ odor recall+ t ( ! fruit4 ,!y f9d application = sc5t+ soap1 9 toilet wat]s1 & 9 "s true p]fumes4 ,:5 oil ( orange or oil ( orange peel is m5tion$ 9 any =mula1 )\t fur!r specification1 ! oil ( bitt] orange peel %\ld be us$4 ,,oil ,,( ,,pat*\ly4 ,?is oil1 :i* might be manufactur$ ) advantage 9 ,india1 ! home ( ! plant1 is1 /range to say1 n import$ f t c\ntry1 b is di/ill$ 9 ,europe f ! dri$ h]b4 ,fre% oil ( pat*\ly is br[n 9 color1 v viscid1 almo/ l balsam1 & surpasses all o!r ess5tial oils 9 ! int5sity ( its odor4 ,ow+ to ! /rong odor1 pure oil ( pat*\ly mu/ really be call$ ill-smell+2 only :5 highly dilut$ does ! odor become pleasant1 & !n =ms a useful +r$i5t ( _m p]fumes z ! fundam5tal odor 9 ! h>mony4 ,,oil ,,( ,,syr+a4 ,oil ( false jasm9e1 f ! fl[]s ( ,philadelphus coron>ius1 is n made z su*2 9 ,s\!rn ,france1 h[ev]1 ! fl[]s are frequ5tly us$ = ! prep>ation ( a *eap pomade kn[n comm]cially z orange-fl[] pomade4 ,a p]sonal exp]im5t made ) ! view to obta9 ! pure odor by extraction ( ! fl[]s ) petroleum e!r has %[n t ?is plant is suitable = mak+ v f9e prep>ations1 bo? h&k]*ief p]fumes & pomades4 ,,oil ,,( ,,allspice1 ( a burn+ %>p ta/e & odor1 is colorless1 b is h>dly ev] us$ = ! purposes ( ! p]fum]--at mo/ = soaps--b all ! m frequ5tly 9 ! manufacture ( liqueurs1 & p>ticul>ly also 9 t ( artificial bay-rum4 ,,oil ,,( ,,sweet ,,pea has n be5 made ?us f>1 ?\gh !re is no d\bt t ?is p]fume1 too1 c be prep>$ pure f ! alcoholic extract ( ! pomade4 ,! prop]ties ( ! oil %\ld resemble ^? ( ! f9e/ nroli ptale4 ,,oil ,,( ,,rue 7,,oleum ,,rut74 ,?is oil1 obta9$ by di/illation ( ! h]b1 is colorless or pale yell[1 ( a v /rong1 p5etrat+ odor2 x is us$ 9 "s wa%es1 b m p>ticul>ly z an +r$i5t 9 ! manufacture ( artificial cognac1 = :i* purpose ! plant is specially cultivat$ 9 ,france4 ,,oil ,,( ,,res$a 7,,mignonette74 ,! delightful odor ( ?is plant :i* =m]ly c\ld only be fix$ by mac]ation 9 fat may be readily prep>$ by extraction ) petroleum e!r4 ,yet special precautions %\ld be tak5 t no?+ b portions ( ! fl[]s1 c>efully pick$ (f1 & no gre5 leaves are extract$4 ,! oil ?us obta9$ has a yell[ color & a disagreeable odor :i* *anges into ! well-kn[n pleasant smell ( ! fl[] :5 highly dilut$ ) alcohol4 ,,oil ,,( ,,rose 7,,oleum ,,ros71 also kn[n z att> or otto ( rose4 ,! v>i\s species ( roses give diff]5t odors4 ,! comm]cial ,turki%1 ,p]sian1 & ,indian oils ( rose 7:i* latt] is nev] export$7--:i*1 by ! way1 are v g5]ally adult]at$ ev5 at _! po9t ( production--are d]iv$ ma9ly f ,rosa damasc5a1 & :5 highly dilut$ yield ! pleasant odor ( our ord9>y g>d5 roses4 ,! rose oils hav+ ! odor ( ! moss rose1 tea rose1 or dog rose are made almo/ exclusively 9 ,france & 9 comm]ce d n appe> pure b g5]ally 9 ! =m ( pomades or alcoholic solutions kn[n z ess5ces de roses4 ,true rose oil is yell[i% or yell[1 or else gre5i%1 & v>y+ f liquid almo/ to ! consi/5ce ( butt]4 ,betwe5 ^! extremes !re are all possible gradations4 ,a comp>atively v high congeal+-po9t is a *>act]i/ic ( oil ( rose4 ,x becomes almo/ solid at #ad to #bj ,c4 7#eg to #fh ,f474 ,! portion sep>at$ dur+ solidification is colorless1 m>k$ly cry/all9e1 &1 /range to say1 almo/ odorless4 ,pure oil ( rose smells disagreeably n>cotic1 only ! v dilute solution %[s ! incomp>able fragrance4 ,mu* sup]ior to ! oils ( rose :i* are prep>$ f rose leaves 7ei!r fre% or salt$7 are ^? obta9$ by mac]ation or extraction ) petroleum e!r4 ,^? p]fumes sold "u ! "n ( v>i\s species ( rose1 su* z moss rose1 etc41 are comb9ations ( rose oil ) o!r aromatics4 ,,oil ,,( ,,rhodium4 ,?is bright yell[ light oil is obta9$ by di/illation ( ! wood ( ,convolvulus ,scop>ius4 ,at times ?is oil is sc>ce 9 comm]ce4 ,x has a fa9t b decid$ odor ( rose4 ,,oil ,,( ,,rosem>y 7,,oleum ,,rosm>9i74 ,?is oil is obta9$ by di/illation f ! h]b ( ! rosem>y plant z a ?91 pale gre5 fluid ) an aromatic odor & spicy ta/e4 ,x is us$ z an +r$i5t 9 "s old r5[n$ h&k]*ief p]fumes--= in/ance1 ,cologne wat]--also = flavor+ soaps & liqueurs4 ,,oil ,,( ,,sage 7,,oleum ,,salvi71 f ! fl[]s ( ,salvia (fic9alis1 is yell[i%1 ) an odor some:at simil> to t ( oil ( pepp]m9t1 b f> less int5se4 ,l ! latt] x imp>ts a pleasant coolness to ! m\? & h5ce is us$ 9 "s m\? wa%es4 ,,oil ,,( ,,santal 7,,oleum ,,santali74 ,! oil ( santal wood 7also call$ s&al-wood oil7 has a ?ick1 honey-l consi/5ce & an agreeable1 rose-l odor4 ,=m]ly x 0 sometimes us$ = ! adult]ation ( oil ( rose1 b c also v well be us$ alone = sev]al p]fumes & fumigat+ prep>ations4 ,,oil ,,( ,,sassafras 7,,oleum ,,sassafras7 is yell[1 spicy1 ) a burn+ odor & ta/e2 9 ! cold x cry/allizes only 9 "p4 ,! odor ( ?is oil recalls t ( f5nel4 ,! pure/ =m ( x1 or r sub/itute = x1 is safrol1 its ma9 con/itu5t1 :i* is1 h[ev]1 n[ extract$ m economically f crude oil ( camphor1 9 :i* x likewise =ms an +r$i5t4 ,,oil ,,( ,,mead[-,,sweet 7,,oleum ,,spir74 ,sev]al species ( ,spira1 & especially ,spira ulm>ia1 furni% v pleasant odors4 ,?is oil consi/s ma9ly ( salicylic aldehyde4 ,despite its pleasant odor & ! facility ( its production1 ?is sub/ance has ?us f> f\nd little application 9 p]fum]y4 ,! natural oil ( mead[sweet1 ow+ to its extremely high price1 c h>dly ev] be us$4 ,,oil ,,( ,,/>-,,anise 7,,oleum ,,anisi ,,/ellati2 ,,oleum ,,illicii7 resembles 9 its prop]ties ! oil ( anise1 ev5 9 its odor2 b all connoisseurs agree t ! odor ( ! oil ( />-anise f> surpasses t ( ! oil ( anise1 h5ce ! =m] is us$ especially = f9e p]fumes4 ,?is pref]5ce1 h[ev]1 does n ext5d to all prep>ations4 ,= c]ta9 liqueurs1 su* z anisette1 ! oil obta9$ f common anise 7,saxon anise7 is usually pref]r$4 ,_m also reg>d ! odor ( />-anise z inf]ior to t ( f9e ,european anise4 ,,oils ,,( ,,?yme 7,,oleum ,,?ymi74 ,! ess5tial oils ( ?yme 7*iefly ,?ymus vulg>is7 & "s relat$ plants are v frequ5tly us$ = sc5t+ *eap soaps4 ,! oils ( ^! plants are light yell[1 & s simil> 9 odor t x is n possible to di/+ui% !m except by direct comp>ison4 ,,oil ,,( ,,vanilla1 or1 m correctly1 vanilla camphor1 ! true odor\s con/itu5t ( vanilla1 also call$ vanill91 is a cry/all9e sub/ance ) a delightful odor1 melt+ at #gf ,c4 7#afi ,f474 ,?is is n[ ext5sively made artificially f ! cambium sap ( p9es1 ! conif]9 be+ conv]t$ by *emical processes into vanill94 ,"o ounce ( good vanill9 is equival5t to ab\t =ty ounces ( be/ ,mexican vanilla beans4 ,,oil ,,( ,,violet has ?us f> be5 produc$ 9 b v small quantities f ! alcoholic extract ( ! true violet pomade2 x has a gre5i% color & :5 pure a n>cotic odor n to be recogniz$ z t ( ! fl[]4 ,! pleasant odor ( violets manife/s itself only 9 extreme dilution4 ,,oil ,,( ,,v]b5a is yell[1 ) a v pleasant odor ( lemons4 ,its price be+ q high1 x is usually adult]at$ ) oil ( lemon-grass1 or else ! latt] is sold "u ! "n ( oil ( v]b5a 7see p4 #cj74 ,9 fact ! odors ( ! two oils are s simil> t !y are easily conf\nd$4 ,,oil ,,( ,,vetiv] 7,,oleum ,,iv>an*us71 f ,&ropogon muricatus 7see p4 #cj71 is viscid1 r$di%-br[n1 ) a v /rong & la/+ odor4 ,,oil ,,( ,,w9t]gre5 7,,oleum ,,gaul!ri74 ,?is product is obta9$ by di/illation f ! leaves & twigs ( ,gaul!ria procumb5s or else by di/ill+ ! b>k or leaves ( ,betula l5ta ) wat]1 9 :i* case ! oil is g5]at$ by ! action ( ! wat]1 z x does n pre-exi/ 9 ! bir*1 &1 moreov]1 9 ?is case ! oil consi/s ( no?+ b me?yl salicylate4 ,x diff]s1 l oil ( mead[sweet1 v m>k$ly f ! o!r aromatic sub/ances & ma9ly consi/s ( a s-call$ comp\nd e!r4 ,x is a salicylate ( me?yl1 boils at #bbj ,c4 7#dbh ,f471 is mu* heavi] ?an wat] 7specific gravity #aagc to #aahd71 & dissolves readily 9 alcohol & o!r solv5ts4 ,x is us$ *iefly = sc5t+ soap2 ! p]fumes sold z w9t]gre5 are usually mixtures ( diff]5t sub/ances :i* conta9 no oil ( w9t]gre54 ,,oil ,,( ,,ylang-,,ylang 7,,oleum ,,unon ,,odoratissim7 is import$ f ,manilla4 ,x is colorless or yell[i%1 & has a mo/ delightful *>act]i/ic odor1 :i* is r fugitive if n made resi/ant by o!r sub/ances4 ,x =ms an important con/itu5t ( sev]al ( ! mo/ favorite & exp5sive ess5ces4 ,,oil ,,( ,,hyssop 7,,oleum ,,hyssopi7 is colorless1 b rapidly becomes yell[ 9 ! air4 ,x is us$ 9 "s v *eap p]fumes & 9 ! manufacture ( liqueurs4 ,,oils ,,( ,,c9namon 7,,oleum ,,c9namomi74 ,comm]cially we f9d *iefly ?ree v>ieties ( ess5tial oils :i* are designat$ z3 oil ( ,ceylon c9namon1 oil ( ,*9ese c9namon or oil ( cassia1 & oil ( c9namon leaves4 ,oil ( ,ceylon c9namon1 sometimes call$ 8true oil ( c9namon10 made f ! b>k ( ! twigs ( ! c9namon laurel & =m]ly import$ ma9ly f ,ceylon b n[ di/ill$ 9 l>ge am\nts 9 ,g]many f import$ c9namon 8*ips10 is r viscid1 gold5 yell[ to r$di%-br[n 9 color1 ( a burn+ ?\gh sweet ta/e4 ,9 ! air x gradually absorbs oxyg51 :5 x becomes d>k r$1 ?ick]1 & ( weak] flavor4 ,oil ( ,ceylon c9namon1 :i* %\ld always be us$ 9 p]fumes or liqueurs :5 simply 8oil ( c9namon0 is direct$1 has a specific gravity ( #ajcj to #ajce at #ae ,c4 7#ei ,f47 & boils at ab\t #bdj ,c4 7#dfd ,f474 ,its *ief con/itu5t ^u :i* its aroma dep5ds is c9namyl aldehyde4 ,oil ( ,*9ese c9namon1 or oil ( cassia1 has = a v long "t1 up to )9 a few ye>s1 always rea*$ ! m>ket 9 a m or less adult]at$ /ate1 a regul> practice ( ! ,*9ese export]s be+ to dissolve ord9>y res9 9 x 7claim+ aft]w>d t ! 8res90 0 caus$ by ! oxidation ( ! oil ?r\gh age7 & (t5 also to add petroleum to x4 ,^! frauds h be5 well %[n up by ,s*immel ,co41 ( ,leipsic2 & 9 consequ5ce !re(1 ! quality ( oil ( cassia export$ f ,*9a has be5 greatly improv$4 ,oil ( cassia :5 pure has a specific gravity ( #ajfj to #ajfe1 & %\ld conta9 n less ?an sev5ty-five p] c5t ( c9namyl aldehyde4 ,oil ( c9namon leaves is an inf]ior product1 (t5 us$ = adult]at+ oil ( ,ceylon c9namon4 ,x does n des]ve notice by ! p]fum]4 ,z an app5dix we may add 9 ?is connection a description ( ! ,,oil ,,( ,,turp5t9e 7,,oleum ,,t]eb9?971 because x mu/ be call$ an important sub/ance to "k = ! p]fum]1 inasmu* z x is v frequ5tly us$ = ! adult]ation ( diff]5t ess5tial oils4 ,oil ( turp5t9e1 :i* is obta9$ f incisions into ! b>k ( diff]5t fir & p9e trees1 ! exud+ res9 be+ di/ill$ ) wat]1 comes into comm]ce f v>i\s s\rces4 ,diff]5t sorts are di/+ui%$1 b to ! p]fum] only ! rectifi$ oil ( turp5t9e1 oleum t]eb9?9 rectificatum1 is important4 ,oil ( turp5t9e has a yell[i% color & a decid$ly disagreeable1 res9\s1 & burnt ta/e4 ,by repeat$ di/illation1 especially ov] quicklime or *loride ( lime 7blea*+ p[d]71 x is f9ally obta9$ z a colorless1 v refractive liquid ) a d5sity ( #jhee to #jhgj & a boil+-po9t at #afj ,c4 7#cbj ,f474 ,its odor is peculi>1 b n easily di/+ui%$ f t ( old ess5tial oils1 su* z oils ( c>away1 anise1 etc4 ,"o peculi>ity ( oil ( turp5t9e is t its odor is easily mask$ by t ( o!r ess5tial oils1 s t1 = in/ance1 a comp>atively l>ge quantity ( oil ( turp5t9e ne$s ! addition ( b little oil ( anise to imp>t to ! entire mixture a r pron\nc$ odor ( anise4 ,?is peculi>ity has l$ to ! frequ5t employm5t ( rectifi$ oil ( turp5t9e = ! adult]ation ( o!r ess5tial oils4 ,,*apt] ,,ix4 ,,! ,,adult]ations ,,( ,,ess5tial ,,oils ,,& ,,_! ,,recognition4 ,we f9d x necess>y to devote a special *apt] to ! adult]ations ( ! comm]cial ess5tial oils because an exp]i5ce ( _m ye>s has %[n u t h>dly any o!r gr\p ( products is subject to s _m sophi/ications z ess5tial oils4 ,! high price ( mo/ aromatic sub/ances & ! difficulty ( recogniz+ ! adult]ation furni% an invit+ field to ! unscrupul\s manufactur]4 ,9 ! be/ int]e/ ( ! p]fum]1 !re=e1 we advise ! pur*ase ( ess5tial oils only f r5[n$ reliable h\ses1 ev5 at high] prices1 = ! *eap comm]cial products are almo/ wor?less1 s9ce !y are almo/ )\t exception adult]at$4 ,! adult]ations are v manifold4 ,"s exp5sive oils are mix$ ) *eap] ones hav+ a simil> odor--= in/ance1 oil ( rose ) oil ( g]anium or oil ( g]anium grass2 oil ( orange fl[]s ) ! oil f ,philadelphus coron>ius2 oil ( v]b5a ) oil ( lemon grass2 oils ( c>away1 anise1 & f5nel ) oil ( turp5t9e2 oil ( c9namon ) oil ( cassia1 etc4 ,besides ^!1 o!r deceptions are practis$--= in/ance1 oil ( anise is mix$ ) oil ( turp5t9e & 9 ord] to make ! mixture congeal readily 7:i* is ! *>act]i/ic ( true oil ( anise1 z above /at$7 p>aff9 or sp]maceti is add$4 ,a simil> practice prevails ) adult]at$ oil ( rose & o!r viscid oils4 ,oil ( bitt] almond we h f\nd adult]at$ ) or entirely replac$ by nitrob5zol1 etc4 ,! demon/ration ( ! adult]ation ( an ess5tial oil by *emical means (f]s _m difficulties4 ,we devote p>ticul> att5tion to ! physical *>act]i/ics1 = exp]i5ce has %[n u t ! olfactory organ--provid$ x is v exp]t--is (t5 able to det]m9e ! g5u95ess ( any aromatic sub/ance :5 o!r te/s h giv5 only unc]ta9 results1 or c give c]ta9 results only 9 ! h&s ( exp]ts4 ,to make ?is te/1 h[ev]1 q reliable1 x is necess>y to be famili> ) ! sub/ances 9 _! pure unadult]at$ condition4 ,! manufactur] ( p]fum]y1 !re=e1 %\ld sp>e nei!r tr\ble nor pecuni>y sacrifices to obta9 possession ( absolutely g5u9e specim5s ( ^? ess5tial oils1 ev5 9 m9ute quantities1 :i* he int5ds to employ4 ,su* samples %\ld be c>efully pres]v$ 7protect$ f heat1 evaporation1 daylight1 etc47 = ! purpose ( imm$iate comp>ison ) ! oils to be pur*as$4 ,z above /at$1 ! physical prop]ties ( ! ess5tial oils usually furni% ! means ( recogniz+ _! purity1 & ^! give m reliable results to ! practical p]fum] ?an ! *emical te/s4 ,! mo/ valuable po9ts are furni%$ by ! boil+-po9t1 ! congeal+-po9t1 & ! d5sity ( ! oils4 ,! foll[+ table gives ! boil+ & congeal+ po9ts ( ! mo/ important ess5tial oils 9 degrees ( ! c5tigrade !rmomet]1 toge!r ) ! d5sity 7or specific gravity72 :]e two figures are giv51 !y indicate ! extreme limits f\nd 9 g5u9e samples4 ,special *>act]i/ics ( "s ess5tial oils ) ref]5ce to _! action at l[ temp]atures or _! melt+-po9t are giv5 9 ! column 8,rem>ks40 ,oil ( turp5t9e1 p>aff91 wax1 & sp]maceti be+ frequ5tly us$ = ! adult]ation ( ess5tial oils1 h be5 includ$ 9 ! table4 ,if accurate results are aim$ at 9 ! exam9ation ( an ess5tial oil accord+ to ?is table1 ! specific gravity %\ld be det]m9$ by means ( a scale s5sitive to "o "o-?\s&? gram1 & ! !rmomet] %\ld be graduat$ to ! t5? ( a degree4 ,,table ,,%[+ ,,! ,,approximate ,,d5sity1 ,,boil+ ,,& ,,congeal+ ,,po9ts ,,( ,,! ,,mo/ ,,important ,,ess5tial ,,oils ,,us$ ,,9 ,,p]fum]y4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------- ,boil+- ,congeal+- ,ess5tial ,oil ,d5sity4 ,po9t1 ,po9t1 ,rem>ks4 ( ,deg4 ,c4 ,deg4 ,c4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------- ,abs9? #jhie 444 444 ,anise #jihj 444 #aj-ae ,b]gamot #jhej-jhij #ahh -#bd ,bitt] almond #ajdj #ahj 444 ,d41 art4 7nitrob5zol7 #ahff #bac #c ,cajuput #jhhj 444 444 ,calamus #jifb 444 444 ,camomile #jibd #afj-baj 444 ,camphor 7,borneo7 444 #bab 444 ,melts at #aih 7,*9ese7 #jihe #bje 444 ,melts at #age ,c>away #jifj #aie 444 ,cassia #ajfj #beb-bee 444 ,c$> wood 444 #bfd -#bb ,c9namon #ajcj-ajce #bdj bel[ -#be leaf #ajec 444 444 ,clove #ajcd-ajee #bdh bel[ #bj ,=ms cry/als -#af ,cori&] #jhga #aej-bjj 444 ,crispm9t #jigh 444 444 ,cubeb #jhhj 444 444 ,f5nel #jifj-jihj 444 #h ,gaul!ria #aagc #bbd 444 ,g]anium #jhie #baf-bbj 444 ,=ms cry/als -#af ,hyssop #jhhi 444 444 ,junip] #jhgj 444 444 ,lav5d] #jhgj-jidj #ahf-aib 444 ,spike-lav5d] 444 #adj 444 ,lemon #jhej-jhgj #agg-bej 444 grass #jhgj-jhih #bbj -#bb ,limetta #jica 444 444 ,mace #jhij-jiej 444 444 ,m>joram #jhij-jibj #afc 444 ,melissa #jhee 444 444 ,n]oli #jhhi-jhhi #age 444 ,=ms cry/als -#af ,nutmeg #jhhj-jidh #agb 444 butt] 444 444 #ca ,olibanum 444 #afb 444 ,orange1 bitt] #jhcj-jhfj #agf 444 sweet #jhdj-jhej #agf 444 ,p>sley #ajae 444 444 ,pat*\ly #jiej-ajab #bhb-bid 444 ,pepp]m9t #jijb-jicj #ahh-bab 444 ,portugal 7orange peel7 #jhdj-jhej #agf 444 ,rose #jhcb #bbi #ad-bj ,rosem>y #jhie-jiaf #ahe 444 ,rue #jiaa 444 444 ,sage #jijb 444 444 ,santal #jiej-jihj #bhh -#bb ,sassafras #ajhb 444 444 ,s]pyllum #jhij-jibj 444 444 ,/>-anise #jihb 444 444 ,?yme #jhgj-jidj #agj-ahj 444 ,vanilla 444 #aej #gf ,vetiv] #ajjg #bhf 444 ,w9t]gre5 #aahj #bbj 444 ,ylang-ylang #jihj 444 444 ,turp5t9e #jhee-jhgj #afj 444 ,p>aff9 #jhgj 444 444 ,melts at #ej-fe ,wax #jifj-jigj 444 444 ,melts at #fe-gj ,sp]maceti #jidc 444 444 ,melts at #de-ej ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------- ,9 buy+ ess5tial oils1 except x be f a h\se ^: reputation is a gu>anty ( _! g5u95ess1 x is to ! int]e/ ( ! p]fum] to make a te/4 ,he mu/ look = c]ta9 sub/ances :i* are g5]ally us$ = ! sophi/ication ( ess5tial oils4 ,^! are3 ,a4 ,o!r ess5tial oils2 ,b4 ,fix$ oils2 ,c4 ,alcohol2 ,d4 ,p>aff91 sp]maceti1 wax4 ,a4 ,,adult]ation ,,( ,,ess5tial ,,oils ,,) ,,o!r ,,ess5tial ,,oils4 ,?is mode ( adult]ation1 :i* is frequ5t1 is naturally ! "o mo/ difficult ( demon/ration4 ,9 ! case ( *eap oils su* z ^? ( c>away1 lemon1 orange peel1 etc41 rectifi$ oil ( turp5t9e is almo/ )\t exception ! adult]ant4 ,! me?ods usually recomm5d$1 su* z attempt+ to dissolve out ! oil ( turp5t9e by /rong alcohol1 hop+ ?us to sep>ate x f ! ess5tial oil1 are )\t practical value4 ,! adult]ation c1 h[ev]1 (t5 be demon/rat$ by rubb+ a drop ( ! suspect$ oil on a glass plate & te/+ ! odor1 provid$ ! olfactory organ is tra9$4 ,z ! above table %[s1 ! oils h diff]5t high boil+-po9ts1 :ile oil ( turp5t9e boils at a r l[ temp]ature1 h5ce x evaporates soon] ?an ! o!rs & c be demon/rat$ by its odor4 ,! demon/ration ( an adult]ation ) an ess5tial oil is mo/ c]ta9 by s-call$ fractional di/illation4 ,"s ( ! oil to be exam9$ 7ab\t f\r to six fluidra*ms7 is plac$ 9 a small retort ) cond5s] & heat$ to a temp]ature a few degrees bel[ ! boil+-po9t ( ! oil 9 "q4 ,if1 = in/ance1 oil ( b]gamot adult]at$ ) oil ( turp5t9e is to be te/$1 x is heat$ c>efully to ne>ly #ahh ,c4 7#cgj ,f471 ! boil+-po9t ( ! oil ( b]gamot2 ! oil ( turp5t9e :i* boils at #afj ,c4 7#cbj ,f47 passes ov] completely1 :ile ! oil ( b]gamot rema9s 9 ! retort4 ,fractional di/illation is also ! mo/ reliable way ( demon/rat+ an adult]ation ) a fix$ oil or ) p>aff91 wax1 or sp]maceti4 ,an adult]ation ( oil ( lav5d] ) oil ( spike-lav5d]1 :i* is o!rwise b>ely recognizable1 is positively %[n by ?is me?od2 ev5 oil ( g]anium 9 oil ( rose1 oil ( cassia 9 oil ( c9namon1 etc41 may be ?us demon/rat$4 ,b4 ,,adult]ation ,,( ,,ess5tial ,,oils ,,) ,,fix$ ,,oils4 ,an addition ( fix$ oils c be easily demon/rat$ by agitation ( ! oil ) /rong alcohol 9 :i* ! ess5tial oil dissolves1 :ile ! fix$ oil rema9s un*ang$4 ,ca/or oil1 h[ev]1 is likewise soluble 9 alcohol & = ?is reason is frequ5tly us$ = ! adult]ation ( ess5tial oils4 ,yet ! pres5ce ( a fix$ oil c also be %[n 9 a v simple mann] by plac+ a drop ( ! suspect$ oil ^u :ite pap] & leav+ x = "s h\rs 9 a w>m spot4 ,if ! oil 0 pure1 ! transluc5t /a9 on ! pap] w disappe> completely 7also :5 ! oil 0 adult]at$ ) turp5t9e72 b if x 0 mix$ ) a fix$ oil1 ! /a9 w rema9 p]man5tly & _c be remov$ f ! pap] ev5 by /rong heat4 ,c4 ,,adult]ation ,,) ,,alcohol4 ,?is frequ5t adult]ation is demon/rat$ ei!r by fractional di/illation1 :5 ! alcohol passes ov] fir/ betwe5 #gj & #hj ,c4 7#aeh & #agf ,f471 or by ! use ( ! vessel illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ca1 :i* is divid$ into #ajj equal p>ts4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ca4 ,! vessel is fill$ to ! t5? division ) ! oil to be te/$1 & wat] is add$ to br+ ! volume to ! #ej m>k4 ,if alcohol is pres5t1 x is tak5 up by ! wat] s t ! volume ( oil appe>s to dim9i%4 ,if ! oil rea*es to ! m>k #g1 x conta9$ ?ree volumes ( alcohol1 or 9 o!r words x 0 mix$ ) ?irty p] c5t ( alcohol4 ,x is true1 ess5tial oils likewise dissolve some:at 9 wat]1 b 9 su* m9ute quantities z n to affect ! success ( ! te/4 ,d4 ,,adult]ation ,,) ,,p>aff91 ,,sp]maceti1 ,,or ,,wax4 ,?is mode ( adult]ation is practis$ ma9ly ) viscid oils :i* congeal at r high temp]atures1 su* z oils ( anise1 rose1 etc41 ! ess5tial oils be+ usually mix$ at ! same "t ) oil ( turp5t9e or p>aff94 ,! fraud is easily detect$ by fractional di/illation4 ,oil ( bitt] almonds is (t5 adult]at$ ) oil ( mirbane2 ?is c be demon/rat$ by %ak+ #a volume ( ! oil ) #ag volumes ( alcohol ( #de1 & sett+ ! mixture aside to settle4 ,! nitrob5zol 7oil ( mirbane7 w !n collect at ! bottom4 ,oil ( ,rose may be te/$ z foll[s3 ,mix ! oil ) an equal quantity ( conc5trat$ sulphuric acid4 ,nei!r ! color nor ! odor ( ! oil %\ld be *ang$1 b if oil ( g]anium 0 pres5t a disagreeable odor & a d>k] color is produc$4 ,x has be5 propos$1 too1 to te/ ! oils by heat+ ) iod9e or nitric acid & det]m9+ ! purity by ! reaction2 b ! results ) ! diff]5t oils are s simil> t ! te/ is almo/ wor?less4 ,we h _h ! same exp]i5ce ) ! te/ by nitro-prusside ( copp] :i* on be+ heat$ ) ess5tial oils gives color$ precipitates diff]+ ) v>i\s oils1 b /ill s simil> t !y _c be reli$ ^u4 ,we h f\nd 9 all cases t a comp>ison ( an oil ) a sample ( kn[n purity is ! be/1 or else ! te/s giv5 9 ! prec$+ pages4 ,,*apt] ,x4 ,,! ,,ess5ces ,,or ,,extracts ,,employ$ ,,9 ,,p]fum]y4 ,! t]m ess5ce or extract 9 p]fum]y means a solution ( an aromatic sub/ance 9 /rong alcohol4 ,^! solutions are g5]ally made z conc5trat$ z possible & 9 ?is =m f9d application 9 ! manufacture ( h&k]*ief p]fumes & ( c]ta9 odors be>+ a special "n4 ,! s-call$ extrait d'illet1 extract ( p9k1 or ! favorite p]fumes kn[n z new-m[n hay h no?+ 9 common ) ei!r p9k or hay except ! "n2 l _m o!r odors1 bo? are m]ely mixtures ( diff]5t ess5ces or extracts4 ,besides ! manufacture ( true p]fumes1 ess5ces or extracts are also us$ = sc5t+ f9e soaps1 sa*ets1 m\? wa%es1 etc4 ,= ! latt]1 too1 use is (t5 made ( ! s-call$ aromatic wat]s 7eaux aromatises7 :i* are obta9$ z a by-product 9 ! di/illation ( fragrant plants1 & h a v f9e odor ow+ to ! small am\nt ( ! aromatic sub/ance !y hold 9 solution4 ,to ?is class belong orange-fl[] wat] 7,aqua ,naph triplex1 eau de fleurs d'oranges71 pepp]m9t wat] 7,aqua ,m5?1 eau de m5!71 & _m o!rs4 ,ess5ces or extracts c be made 9 two ways3 9 ! case ( aromatic sub/ances :i* are obta9able 9 ! pure /ate--t is1 ess5tial oils--by dissolv+ !m 9 /rong alcohol 9 def9ite proportions2 9 ! case ( aromatics comb9$ ) a fatty sub/ance by "o ( ! processes describ$ above1 by treat+ ! pomade 7l>d1 or o!r p]fectly bl&1 sweet1 & 9 itself odorless fat comb9$ ) ! aromatic7 or huile antique 7fix$ oil hold+ ! aromatic sub/ance 9 solution7 ) ! /ronge/ alcohol4 ,accord+ to ! action ( ! alcohol ^u ! pomade or huile antique at ord9>y or high] temp]ature1 ! process is call$ cold or w>m infusion4 ,cold infusion furni%es ! odor 9 a mu* m delicate & sup]ior =m ?an ! w>m4 ,! cold infusion requires = complete solution ( ! aromatic f\r to six weeks2 ! w>m1 t5 to f\rte5 days4 ,al?\gh ! =m] consumes a mu* long] "t1 x is to be pref]r$1 z ! heat injures ! odor4 ,pomades or huiles antiques are nev] completely exhau/$ by a s+le treatm5t ) alcohol4 ,ev5 :5 heat is employ$ !y always reta9 a portion ( ! aromatic ) great t5acity2 a second & ?ird infusion /ill ab/racts odor f !m1 & f9ally no?+ rema9s b pure fat ) a pleasant odor :i* is /a9$ & sold comm]cially z pomade "u ! "n ( ! respective odor--violet1 orange fl[]1 res$a1 etc4--or else is us$ ov] aga9 9 ! factory = ! extraction ( fl[]s4 ,exp]i5ce has %[n u t x is be/ to infuse ! pomades or huiles antiques twice 9 ! cold & to use ! two fluids unit$ = ! f9e/ p]fumes2 ! residue by w>m infusion furni%es an ess5ce ( second quality1 & sup]ior pomades or fragrant oils4 ,! infusion is g5]ally effect$ 9 /rong glass bottles ( a capacity ( ?ree to five gallons2 ab\t five to six qu>ts ( cologne _s be+ p\r$ ov] six to eight p\nds or p9ts ( fat or huile antique4 ,9 treat+ huiles antiques all p>ts ( ! oil %\ld be br\ght into contact ) ! alcohol z mu* z possible1 h5ce ! bottles mu/ be frequ5tly %ak52 a bett] plan is to br+ ! tightly clos$ bottles into an app>atus 9 :i* !y are con/antly agitat$ by rotation4 ,su* an app>atus is easily made by plac+ ! bottles 9 an incl9$ position betwe5 two rods fa/5$ to a common axis :i* is kept revolv+4 ,! adjo9+ illu/ration 7,fig4 #cb7 %[s su* a contrivance :i* is requir$ also 9 ! manufacture ( p]fumes4 ,! rotation may be effect$ by clockwork1 wat] p[]1 or any o!r motor4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cb4 ,pomades be+ solid mu/ be divid$ into small pieces :i* may be done ) a knife1 b ! foll[+ proc$ure is m suitable & less labori\s4 ,! pomade is plac$ 9 a t9 cyl9d] f\r in*es wide & ab\t a foot high1 :i* is op5 at "o end1 ! o!r be+ clos$ ) a t9 plate hav+ sev]al f9e op5+s4 ,! cyl9d] fill$ ) pomade is set ^u ! bottle conta9+ ! alcohol = extraction1 & ! pomade is press$ ?r\gh ! op5+s 9 ! %ape ( ?9 ?reads by means ( a pi/on4 ,9 ?is way1 ( c\rse1 ! pomade acquires a v l>ge surface & rapidly yields ! aromatic sub/ance to ! alcohol4 ,! odor ( ! pomade diff]s accord+ to ! l5g? ( "t :i* x has be5 subject$ to ! fl[]s1 & on be+ treat$ ) alcohol furni%es extracts ( correspond+ /r5g?4 ,?is %\ld be borne 9 m9d 9 ! manufacture ( p]fumes :i* are int5d$ to be uni=m 9 quality4 ,aft] two cold & "o w>m infusion ( ! pomade1 x may be made to yield "s m aromatic mat]ial by heat+ x c>efully to its exact melt+-po9t1 :5 extract aga9 appe>s on ! surface & c be p\r$ (f by g5tle incl9ation ( ! vessel4 ,9 ! foll[+ pages we give ! proportions by weight & measure employ$ by ! mo/ important ,fr5*1 ,engli%1 & ,g]man manufactur]s = _! pomade extracts or solutions ( ! ess5tial oils 9 alcohol4 ,z to ! latt] we aga9 repeat t x mu/ be ov] #hh to #ij /r5g? accord+ to ,tralles or ev5 /rong]1 & t x mu/ be absolutely free f any trace ( amyl alcohol 7potato fusel oil71 ! lea/ am\nt ( :i* impairs ! delicacy ( ! odor4 ,9 ?is c\ntry 7! ,unit$ ,/ates7 !re is no difficulty :atev] 9 obta9+ alcohol ( prop] /r5g?4 ,! m>ket (f]s sc>cely any o!r b t ( #id4 ,( c\rse deodoriz$ alcohol1 or s-call$ ,cologne _s %\ld be us$4 ,gra9 & w9e spirits are ! k9ds :i* :5 rectifi$ are to be pref]r$ to all o!rs4 ,all ! citron oils 7i4e41 oils ( lemon1 b]gamot1 & ^? ) simil> odor71 rose oils 7oils ( rose1 g]anium1 & rhodium71 & _m o!r sweet sc5ts are mo/ fragrant :5 dissolv$ 9 pure _s ( w9e1 :ile ! odors f ! animal k+dom & ^? ( violet 7violet & orris root7 smell sweete/ :5 dissolv$ 9 gra9 _s4 ,! ess5ces prep>$ f pomades or huiles antiques usually conta9 9 solution "s fat :i* is be/ remov$ by cool+4 ,to ?is end ! vessels conta9+ ! ess5ces are plac$ 9 a vat & surr\nd$ ) pellets ( ice & cry/als ( *loride ( calcium4 ,by ?is mixture ! temp]ature c be r$uc$ bel[-#bj ,c4 7-#d ,f471 & aft] "s "t ! fats are deposit$ 9 a solid =m at ! bottom ( ! vessel4 ,?is is !n tak5 f ! vat & ! ess5ce c>efully p\r$ f ! s$im5t4 ,! alcoholic extracts ( ! pomades or solutions ( ! aromatics are call$ ess5ces or extracts 7,fr5*1 extraits72 ! solutions obta9$ f res9s & balsams are usually t]m$ t9ctures4 ,:ile "s extracts1 ow+ to _! /rong odor1 c be us$ only :5 dilut$ ) alcohol1 o!rs are employ$ 9 p]fumes z su*4 ,pure extracts 7extraits purs7 are ^? conta9+ only a s+le odor & are b r>ely us$ z p]fumes2 ! latt] are usually mixtures ( sev]al1 (t5 a great _m odors4 ,,*apt] ,,xi4 ,,directions ,,= ,,mak+ ,,! ,,mo/ ,,important ,,ess5ces ,,& ,,extracts4 ,,note4--,!re is consid]able confusion1 9 works on p]fum]y1 reg>d+ ! t]ms ess5ce & extract4 ,9 ,fr5* works1 ess5ce always means 8ess5tial oil40 ,?us 8ess5ce de rose0 is 8ess5tial oil ( roses10 or 8att> 7otto7 ( roses40 ,extrait 7,fr5*7 is us$ ( alcoholic solutions ( oils1 z well z alcoholic extracts ( pomades1 or ( sub/ances n :olly soluble 9 alcohol1 & also ( comp\nd liquids4 ,9 ,engli%1 ess5ce is us$1 & %\ld be conf9$ to alcoholic solutions ( ess5tial oils 78ess5ce ( lemon10 8ess5ce ( pepp]m9t074 ,x is1 !n1 equival5t to ! t]m 8_s10 :i* is also us$ only ( alcoholic solutions ( ess5tial oils or o!r volatile sub/ance 7su* z3 _s ( pepp]m9t1 ess5ce ( pepp]m9t2 _s ( camphor1 etc474 ,liquid alcoholic extracts ( sub/ances n :olly soluble 9 alcohol are prop]ly call$ t9ctures 7= in/ance1 t9cture ( b5zo91 t9cture ( musk72 & liquid alcoholic extracts ( pomades1 or comp\nd odor\s liquids1 are be/ compris$ "u ! g5]al t]m extracts4 ,we %all employ ! t]ms ess5ce1 extract1 & t9cture 9 ! s5se "h expla9$4 ,,extract ,,( ,,cassie 7,,extrait ,,de ,,cassie74 ,cassie pomade #f lbs4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,extract ( cassie has a f9e gre5 color--a fact :i* is n desirable 9 p]fumes int5d$ = ! h&k]*ief because color$ prep>ations leave /a9s4 ,h[ev]1 extract ( cassie is r>ely us$ pure1 b is g5]ally mix$ ) o!r odors = h&k]*ief p]fumes1 :]eby ! color is s mu* dilut$ t x may be disreg>d$4 ,?is extract--& ! same rem>k applies to all ! o!rs--imm$iately aft] its prep>ation mu/ be put into tightly clos$ vessels & pres]v$ 9 ! coole/ atta9able d>k place2 = light1 air1 & heat mu/ be call$ ! de/roy]s ( p]fumes1 s9ce ! mo/ delightful odors ev5tually disappe> "u _! influ5ce4 ,= ! b5efit ( manufactur]s :o import ?is extract f ,s\!rn ,france1 ! ma9 s\rce ( supply1 we may add t ! ^w cassie or extrait de cassie1 d]iv$ f ! fl[]s ( ,acacia f>nesiana1 might readily give rise to confusion ) extrait de cassia1 made f ! b>k ( ! c9namon cassia4 ,,t9cture ,,( ,,amb]gris 7,,extrait ,d',,ambregris74 ,amb]gris #e oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,! amb]gris %\ld be brok5 into small pieces ) a *opp+ knife repeat$ly moi/5$ ) alcohol1 & all[$ to dige/ 9 ! alcohol = "s weeks at a temp]ature ( ab\t #cj ,c4 7#hf ,f474 ,,t9cture ,,( ,,b5zo9 7,,extrait ,,de ,,b5jo974 ,b5zo9 #aj oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,?is t9cture is n s mu* us$ = h&k]*ief p]fumes z = pres]v+ _m pomades1 z x possesses ! valuable prop]ty ( prev5t+ fats f becom+ rancid4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,b]gamot 7,,extrait ,,de ,,b]gamotte74 ,oil ( b]gamot #h oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,t9cture ,,( ,,ca/or 7,,extrait ,,de ,,ca/oreum74 ,ca/or #b oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,t9cture ,,( ,,musk ,,se$ 7,,extrait ,d',,ambrette74 ,musk se$1 p[d]$ #a lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,bitt] ,,almond 7,,extrait ,d',,am&e74 ,oil ( bitt] almond #a oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,calamus 7,,extrait ,,de ,,gla,,eul74 ,oil ( calamus #a oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,?is ess5ce has a pleasant odor1 b x is n valu$ z a true p]fume2 ?\gh if x is mix$ ) o!r ess5ces or extracts until its *>act]i/ic odor is no long] recognizable x furni%es a v useful basis = _m *eap articles4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,c$> 7,,extrait ,,de ,c,,dre74 ,oil ( c$> wood lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,?is ess5ce made f ! oil is colorless & c be us$ imm$iately = h&k]*ief p]fumes4 ,,t9cture ,,( ,,c$> 7,,extrait ,,de ,,bois ,,de ,c,,dre74 ,?is is made by dige/+ f9ely rasp$ c$> wood ) /rong alcohol1 namely3 ,c$> wood *ips #f lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,! result is a fragrant t9cture ) a beautiful deep r$ color :i* _c be employ$ = h&k]*ief p]fumes1 b = _m cosmetic prep>ations su* z m\? wa%es & = sc5t+ soap4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,citronella4 ,extrait de citronella #c to #c oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,lemon ,,grass 7,,extrait ,,de ,,s*o5an!74 ,oil ( lemon grass #b to #c oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,extract ,,( ,,lilac 7,,extrait ,,de ,,lilas74 ,! g5u9e is seldom made2 ! prep>ation sold "u ?is "n consi/s (3 ,oil ( bitt] almond #ae gra9s4 ,extract ( orange fl[]s1 f pomade #b qts4 ,extract ( tub]ose1 f pomade #c qts4 ,t9cture ( civet p9t4 ,( late1 extract ( lilac is (t5 prep>$ by means ( lilac9 or t]p9eol1 z foll[s3 ,lilac9 #a oz4 ,alcohol #a p9t4 ,,extract ,,( ,,honeysuckle 7,,extrait ,,de ,,*,,vre-,,feuille74 ,! au?or has made ?is extract by treat+ ! pomade prep>$ f ! fl[]s ( ,lonic]a ,caprifolium1 9 ! foll[+ proportion3 ,honeysuckle pomade #f lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,! comm]cial extract ( ?is "n is always a comp\nd :i* may be prep>$ accord+ to ! foll[+ =mula3 ,extract ( rose1 made f ! pomade #a qt4 ,extract ( tub]ose1 f pomade #a qt4 ,extract ( violet1 f pomade #a qt4 ,t9cture ( vanilla p9t4 ,t9cture ( ,tolu p9t4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #ae gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #h gra9s4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,g]anium4 ,oil ( g]anium 7rose-g]anium7 #e oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,9 ! comm]cial article ! ess5ce ( lemon grass is (t5 sub/itut$ = ! ess5ce ( g]anium1 ! odor be+ simil>1 ?\gh less delicate4 ,,extract ,,( ,,cucumb] 7,,extrait ,,de ,,concombres74 ,cucumb]s #h lbs4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,! cucumb]s are peel$1 cut into ?9 slices1 & mac]at$ 9 ! w>m alcohol4 ,if ! odor is n /rong en\gh 9 ! alcohol aft] "s days1 x is p\r$ ov] "s m fre% slices1 ! mac]at$ residue is express$1 & at ! end ( ! op]ation all ! liquids are unit$ & filt]$4 ,,extract ,,( ,,heliotrope 7,,extrait ,,de ,h,,liotrope74 ,heliotrope pomade #f lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,?is has ?us f> be5 manufactur$ only by ,fr5* p]fum]s at v high prices2 ! great majority ( ! s-call$ extracts ( heliotrope are comp\nd$ f3 ,extract ( rose1 f pomade #b qts4 ,extract ( orange fl[]s1 f pomade #ad oz4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #g oz4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #d qts4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #ge gra9s4 ,?is is us$ z a p]fume z su*4 ,m rec5tly1 pip]onal1 "u ! "n heliotrop91 is us$ = mak+ ?is extract-- ,heliotrop9 oz4 ,alcohol #a ,p9t4 ,x is necess>y to bl5d ?is ) v>i\s o!r aromatics 9 ord] to cov] ! pron\nc$ odor4 ,a little cum>9 is usually ( great help4 ,b is x impossible1 z yet1 to give reliable proportions :i* w\ld suit all cases4 ,,extract ,,( ,,jasm9e 7,,extrait ,,de ,,jasm974 ,jasm9e pomade #f lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,lav5d] 7,,extrait ,,de ,,lav&e74 ,oil ( lav5d] #g oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,a f> sup]ior ess5ce may be prep>$ by ! di/illation (3 ,oil ( lav5d] #g oz4 ,rose wat] #b qts4 ,alcohol #aj qts4 ,! di/illation is cont9u$ until "o-half ( ! entire liquid has pass$ ov]2 ! residue 9 ! /ill furni%es an ess5ce ( lav5d] ( ! second quality4 ,,extract ,,( ,,wallfl[] 7,,extrait ,,de ,,gir(l74 ,! g5u9e odor c be made only f ! pomade2 ! comm]cial extract consi/s (3 ,extract ( cassie1 f pomade #a p9t4 ,extract ( orange fl[]1 f pomade #a qt4 ,extract ( rose1 f pomade #a qt4 ,t9cture ( vanilla4 #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( orris root #a p9t4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #a p9t4 ,,extract ,,( ,,lily 7,,extrait ,,de ,,lys74 ,z to ?is delightful odor ! rem>k made "u ! prec$+ head applies likewise2 artificial extract ( lily consi/s (3 ,extract ( cassie1 f pomade #c p9ts4 ,extract ( jasm9e1 f pomade #ac fl4 oz4 ,extract ( orange fl[]1 f pomade #bg fl4 oz4 ,extract ( rose1 f pomade #c p9ts4 ,extract ( tub]ose1 f pomade #c qts4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #dj fl4 oz4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #cj gra9s4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,lemon 7,,extrait ,,de ,,limon74 ,oil ( lemon #g oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,extract ,,( ,,magnolia 7,,extrait ,,de ,,magnolia74 ,?is favorite p]fume is a mixture (3 ,extract ( orange fl[]1 f pomade #b qts4 ,extract ( rose1 f pomade #d qts4 ,extract ( tub]ose1 f pomade #a qt4 ,extract ( violet1 f pomade #a qt4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #dj gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon #af gra9s4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,pepp]m9t 7,,extrait ,,de ,,m5!74 ,oil ( pepp]m9t #f oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,t9cture ,,( ,,musk 7,,extrait ,,de ,,musc74 ,musk #b oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,?is t9cture is ( special importance1 n s mu* because ( its odor z on acc\nt ( its useful prop]ty ( fix+ o!r v volatile odors4 ,,extract ,,( ,,myrtle 7,,extrait ,,de ,,myrte74 ,ow+ to ! small yield ( ess5tial oil furni%$ on di/illation by ! myrtle & ! comp>atively high price ( ! oil ( myrtle1 ne>ly all ! extract ( myrtle is prep>$ artificially1 z foll[s3 ,extract ( jasm9e1 f pomade p9t4 ,extract ( orange fl[]1 f pomade #a qt4 ,extract ( rose1 f pomade #b qts4 ,extract ( tub]ose1 f pomade #a qt4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #a qt4 ,,extract ,,( ,,n>cissus4 ,9 p]fum]y1 two extracts ( n>cissus are di/+ui%$--true extract ( n>cissus1 f ! fl[]s ( ! g>d5 plant1 ,n>cissus poeticus1 & ! s-call$ extract ( jonquille1 f ,n>cissus ,jonquilla1 :i* is cultivat$ 9 ,s\!rn ,france & ^: odor is obta9$ by mac]ation4 ,g5u9e extract ( n>cissus is ev5 m r>ely obta9able ?an extract ( jonquille2 ! odors ( bo? are imitat$1 ma9ly accord+ to ! foll[+ prescriptions3 #a4 ,,extract ,,( ,,n>cissus 7,,extrait ,,de ,,n>cisse74 ,extract ( jonquille1 f pomade #b qts4 ,extract ( tub]ose1 f pomade #c qts4 ,t9cture ( /orax p9t4 ,t9cture ( tolu p9t4 #b4 ,,extract ,,( ,,jonquille 7,,extrait ,,de ,,jonquille74 ,extract ( jasm9e1 f pomade #b qts4 ,extract ( orange fl[]1 f pomade #a qt4 ,extract ( tub]ose1 f pomade #b qts4 ,t9cture ( vanilla p9t4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,clove 7,,extrait ,,de ,,cl\s ,,de ,,gir(les74 ,oil ( clove #d oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,extract ,,( ,,p9k 7,,extrait ,d',,illet74 ,?is pleasant odor occurs 9 comm]ce only z an imitation4 ,extract ( cassie1 f pomade #b p9ts4 ,extract ( orange fl[]1 f pomade #b p9ts4 ,extract ( rose1 f pomade #e p9ts4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #bj fl4 oz4 ,oil ( clove1 a suffici5t quantity1 ab\t #ge gra9s4 ,! oil ( clove :i* det]m9es ! *>act]i/ic odor ( ?is extract is dissolv$ 9 a little alcohol2 ( ?is solution en\gh is gradually add$ to ! mixture until ! odor has become suffici5tly /rong4 ,,extract ,,( ,,orange ,,fl[] ,,or ,,n]oli 7,,extrait ,,de ,,fleurs ,d',,oranges1 ,,extrait ,,de ,n,,roli74 ,orange-fl[] pomade #f lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,or1 ,oil n]oli ptale #b oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,! latt] prep>ation is also call$ 8ess5ce ( n]oli40 ,! extract prep>$ f ! pomade furni%es ?is highly e/eem$ odor ( a delicacy nev] to be approa*$ by t made ) oil4 ,! alcoholic extract ( ! pomade p]fum$ ) ! fl[]s ( ,syr+a 7,philadelphus coron>ius7 also occurs 9 comm]ce z extract ( orange fl[]s or n]oli4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,pat*\ly 7,,extrait ,,de ,,pat*\li74 ,oil ( pat*\ly #a oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,?is pure ess5ce ( pat*\ly has n a v pleasant odor2 t made accord+ to ! foll[+ =mula is f> sup]ior4 ,oil ( pat*\ly #a oz4 ,oil ( rose oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,t9cture ,,( ,,balsam ,,( ,,p]u 7,,extrait ,,de ,p,,r\74 ,p]u balsam #aj oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,?is t9cture1 ?\gh ( a v pleasant odor1 c be us$ only = sc5t+ soap or sa*ets1 z x has a v d>k br[n color2 by di/ill+ alcohol ov] ,p]u balsam a colorless extract is obta9$1 ?\gh ( a fa9t] odor4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,allspice 7,,extrait ,,de ,,pim5t74 ,oil ( allspice #c oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,extract ,,( ,,sweet ,,pea 7,,extrait ,,de ,,pois ,,de ,,s5teur74 ,?is extract1 made almo/ exclusively 9 ,s\!rn ,france by mac]ation ( ! pomade1 is b r>ely met ) 9 comm]ce2 :at passes "u ?is "n is made z foll[s3 ,extract ( orange fl[]1 f pomade #b p9ts4 ,extract ( rose1 f pomade #b p9ts4 ,extract ( tub]ose1 f pomade #b p9ts4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #e oz4 ,,extract ,,( ,,res$a 7,,extrait ,,de ,,mignonette74 ,res$a pomade #e to #f lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,t9cture ( tolu #e oz4 ,! addition ( ! t9cture ( tolu is necess>y "h1 ow+ to ! extraord9>y volatility ( ! delightful odor ( mignonette1 :i* is less5$ by ! addition ( t9cture ( tolu4 ,,ess5ce ,,or ,,extract ,,( ,,rose 7,,extraits ,,de ,,rose74 ,9 comm]ce sev]al sorts ( ess5ce or extract ( rose are di/+ui%$2 only ! *eap] grades are made by direct solution ( ! oil ( rose 9 alcohol1 ! bett] grades are prep>$ only f pomades4 ,z ! rose is ! noble/ ( fl[]s1 s are ^! odors ! mo/ magnific5t ?us f> produc$ by ! art ( p]fum]y1 s9ce !y are approa*$ 9 delicacy & fragrance only by ! g5u9e extracts ( orange fl[] & violet4 ,! s-call$ rose wat]s 7eaux de rose7 are be/ obta9$ by di/illation ( fre% or salt$ rose leaves ) wat]4 ,! prec$+ =mul w %[ t bo? extract ( rose & rose wat] =m important con/itu5ts ( _m comp\nd ess5ces1 h5ce ^! mat]ials require special att5tion4 ,9 ! foll[+ pages we enum]ate only ^? =mul :i* are ackn[l$g$ z ! be/ & furni% ! f9e/ product4 ,z rose wat] likewise belongs among ! rose odors we give directions = its prep>ation1 & obs]ve 9 pass+ t ! precautions requir$ 9 ! manufacture ( ?is "o apply also to all aromatic wat]s 7eaux aromatises74 ,! fir/ ess5tial to ! production ( a f9e aromatic wat] is ! employm5t ( ! fre%e/ possible fl[]s2 :5 kept 9 /ock1 *emical *anges occur 9 ! leaves :i* affect also ! aromatic con/itu5ts & lead to a det]ioration ( ! fragrance4 ,h5ce we urg5tly recomm5d to di/il ! fre%ly ga!r$ fl[]s z soon z possible1 ev5 if ! quantity on h& be small4 ,%\ld ?is n be feasible1 x is advisable to press ! fl[]s imm$iately aft] ga!r+ 9 /one-w>e pots & to p\r ov] !m a saturat$ solution ( table salt4 ,a conc5trat$ sal9e solution prev5ts decomposition by ! ab/raction ( wat]2 & ?us l>g] quantities ( fl[]s may be ga!r$ & di/ill$ ) ! salt solution4 ,! majority ( aromatic wat]s are prep>$ 9 ?is way1 = in/ance1 rose1 jasm9e1 lilac1 & o!rs4 ,!y ent] less into h&k]*ief p]fumes ?an into v>i\s m\? & o!r wa%es1 & cosmetics 9 g5]al4 ,,rose ,,wat] 7,,eau ,,de ,,rose ,,triple74 ,rose leaves #d lb4 ,wat] #bj p9ts4 ,mix !m1 & by means ( /eam1 di/il #aj p9ts4 ,! rose leaves are1 ( c\rse1 pref]ably to be us$ :ile fre%4 ,if !y are to be pres]v$ = future use1 !y %\ld be pack$ 9 /one-w>e j>s1 & cov]$ ) a solution ( common salt4 ,?is is p\r$ (f be=e di/illation1 b us$ ov] aga9 = ! same purpose4 ,,extract ,,( ,,rose 7,,extrait ,,de ,,roses ,,triple74 ,rose pomade #h lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,oil ,,( ,,rose 7,,esprit ,,de ,,roses ,,triple74 ,oil ( rose #c oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,?is ess5ce is n s good z ! extract4 ,,extract ,,( ,,*9a ,,roses 7,,ess5ce ,,de ,,roses ,,jaunes74 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #b qts4 ,t9cture ( tonka p9t4 ,extract ( tub]ose #b qts4 ,extract ( v]b5a p9t4 ,,extract ,,( ,,sweet-,,bri] 7,,wild ,,rose7 7,,extrait ,d',,eglant9e74 ,extract ( cassie1 f pomade #dd fl4 oz4 ,extract ( orange fl[]1 f pomade #dd fl4 oz4 ,extract ( rose1 f pomade #b qts4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #dd fl4 oz4 ,oil ( lemon grass oz4 ,oil ( n]oli oz4 ,,extract ,,( ,,moss-,,rose 7,,extrait ,,de ,,roses ,,m\sseuses74 ,extract ( rose1 f pomade #b qts4 ,extract ( orange fl[]1 f pomade #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( musk lb4 ,,extract ,,( ,,tea-,,rose 7,,extrait ,,de ,,rosa ,,?,a74 ,extract ( rose1 f pomade #a qt4 ,extract ( g]anium1 f pomade #a qt4 ,extract ( orange fl[]1 f pomade p9t4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,t9cture ( santal p9t4 ,t9cture ( orris root p9t4 ,,extract ,,( ,,:ite ,,rose 7,,ess5ce ,,de ,,roses ,,blan*es74 ,extract ( rose1 f pomade #a qt4 ,extract ( jasm9e1 f pomade #a p9t4 ,extract ( violet1 f pomade #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( pat*\ly p9t4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,,extract ,,( ,,tw9-,,roses 7,,ess5ce ,,de ,,roses ,,jumelles74 ,extract ( rose1 f pomade #e qts4 ,oil ( rose #a oz4 ,,extract ,,( ,,santal 7,,extrait ,,de ,,santal74 ,t9cture ( santal #c oz4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a p9t4 ,alcohol #i p9ts4 ,,t9cture ,,( ,,/orax 7,,ess5ce ,,de ,,/yrax74 ,/orax #aj oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,?\gh ?is t9cture has a pleasant odor1 x is n ord9>ily us$ by itself1 b = fix+ o!r odors4 ,,t9cture ,,( ,,tolu 7,,extrait ,,de ,,baume ,,de ,,tol\74 ,tolu balsam #aj oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,! rem>k made "u t9cture ( /orax applies also to ?is4 ,,t9cture ,,( ,,tonka 7,,extrait ,,de ,,tonka74 ,tonka beans1 cru%$ #ba oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,extract ,,( ,,tub]ose 7,,extrait ,,de ,,tub]ose74 ,tub]ose pomade #h-aj lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,t9cture ( /orax #aj fl4 oz4 ,,t9cture ,,( ,,vanilla 7,,extrait ,,de ,,vanille74 ,vanilla1 slic$ lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,extract ,,( ,,violet 7,,extrait ,,de ,,violette74 ,violet pomade #f-g lb4 ,extract ( cassie #f fl4 oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,?is extract is v exp5sive2 a good imitation is made z foll[s3 ,extract ( cassie1 f pomade #b qts4 ,extract ( rose1 f pomade #a qt4 ,extract ( tub]ose1 f pomade #a qt4 ,t9cture ( orris root #a qt4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #ae gra9s4 ,,t9cture ,,( ,,orris ,,root 7,,extrait ,d',,iris74 ,orris root1 p[d]$ #f-g lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,?is t9cture is sold z a v *eap violet p]fume1 b x has also consid]able value to p]fum]y 9 g5]al1 ow+ to its fix+ p[]4 ,,extract ,,( ,,v]b5a 7,,extrait ,,de ,,v]ve9e74 ,true oil ( v]b5a is r exp5sive4 ,h5ce artificial compositions are employ$ "u ! "n ( v]b5a :i* resemble ! true odor1 ?\gh n exactly l x4 ,,extract ,,( ,,v]b5a ,a4 ,oil ( lemon grass #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon #ad oz4 ,oil ( orange peel #c oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,?is extract is *eap & is us$ imm$iately z a p]fume4 ,! extract usually sold "u ! ,fr5* "n ,extrait de v]ve9e is m exp5sive & f> sup]ior3 ,,extract ,,( ,,v]b5a ,b4 ,extract ( orange fl[]1 f pomade #cj fl4 oz4 ,extract ( rose1 f pomade #a qt4 ,extract ( tub]ose1 f pomade oz4 ,oil ( citron ze/e oz4 ,oil ( lemon grass oz4 ,oil ( lemon peel #i oz4 ,oil ( orange peel #d oz4 ,alcohol #d p9ts4 ,z already expla9$1 if h&-press$ oil ( lemon 7made by ! cuelle process7 is available1 !n ! 8oil ( citron ze/e0 7:i* is ?is p>ticul> k9d ( oil7 & ! 8oil ( lemon0 may be simply add$ toge!r2 t is1 #i oz4 ( oil ( lemon are us$4 ,,extract ,,( ,,volcam]ia 7,,extrait ,,de ,,volcam]ia74 ,?is extract is no m d]iv$ f ! fragrant blossom ^: "n x be>s ?an are ^? ( ! lily1 p9k1 & o!rs met ) 9 comm]ce4 ,x is prep>$ accord+ to ! foll[+ =mula3 ,extract ( jasm9e1 f pomade #a p9t4 ,extract ( rose1 f pomade #a qt4 ,extract ( tub]ose1 f pomade #b qts4 ,extract ( violet1 f pomade #b qts4 ,t9cture ( musk4 p9t4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,vetiv] 7,,extrait ,,de ,v,,tiv]74 ,oil ( vetiv] #b oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,t9cture ,,( ,,olibanum 7,,extrait ,d',,oliban1 ,,extrait ,d',,enc5s74 ,olibanum #a lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,extract ,,( ,,w9t]gre5 7,,extrait ,,de ,,gaul?,,rie74 ,?is ess5ce is m commonly sold "u ! ,engli% ?an ! ,fr5* "n4 ,its composition is ! foll[+3 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #a p9t4 ,extract ( cassie #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( lav5d] #a p9t4 ,extract ( orange fl[]1 f pomade #a qt4 ,extract ( rose1 f pomade #b qts4 ,t9cture ( vanilla4 #a p9t4 ,ess5ce ( vetiv] #a p9t4 ,,t9cture ,,( ,,civet 7,,extrait ,,de ,,civette74 ,civet4 #a--a oz4 ,orris root #a--a oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,t9cture ( civet is exce$+ly la/+ & is g5]ally employ$ = fix+ o!r odors4 ,z to ! quantity requir$ to fix p]fumes 9 g5]al1 we may /ate t x v>ies ) ! nature ( ! odor4 ,z a rule1 ab\t "o-sixte5? "p ( t9cture ( civet suffices = ev5 ! mo/ volatile p]fumes4 ,,t9cture ,,( ,,c9namon 7,,extrait ,,de ,,canelle74 ,c9namon #a lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,ow+ to ! yell[ color left ^u h&k]*iefs by p]fumes prep>$ ) ?is extract1 x c be us$ only = common goods1 b x is m frequ5tly employ$ = sc5t+ soaps4 ,,*apt] ,,xii4 ,,! ,,division ,,( ,,p]fum]y4 ,accord+ to ! purposes = :i* !y are int5d$1 ! v>i\s articles ( p]fum]y may be divid$ into sev]al gr\ps4 ,!y are3 ,,true ,,p]fumes4 ,a4 ,liquid4--,alcoholic h&k]*ief p]fumes4 ,among ^! are ! s-call$ extracts1 b\quets1 & wat]s4 ,ammoniacal & acid p]fumes3 aromatic v9eg>s & volatile ammoniacal salts4 ,b4 ,dry4--,sa*et p[d]s1 fumigat+ pa/ils & p[d]s4 ,,prep>ations ,,= ,,! ,,c>e ,,( ,,! ,,sk94 ,emulsions1 crmes1 p]fum$ soaps1 toilet wat]s1 nail p[d]s4 ,,prep>ations ,,= ,,! ,,c>e ,,( ,,! ,,hair4 ,hair oils1 pomades1 hair wa%es4 ,,prep>ations ,,= ,,! ,,c>e ,,( ,,! ,,m\?4 ,too? p[d]s1 m\? wa%es4 ,,cosmetics4 ,pa9ts1 p[d]s1 hair dyes1 depilatories1 etc4 ,9 connection ) ! description ( ^! diff]5t articles "s rem>ks w be made ab\t ! colors employ$ 9 p]fum]y & ab\t ! ut5sils us$ ) ! cosmetics1 su* z combs1 bru%es1 sponges1 etc4 ,,*apt] ,,xiii4 ,,! ,,manufacture ,,( ,,h&k]*ief ,,p]fumes1 ,,b\quets1 ,,or ,,aromatic ,,wat]s4 ,! manufacture ( h&k]*ief p]fumes is v simple3 ! extracts prep>$ z direct$ 9 ,*apt] ,,xi4 are mix$ 9 def9ite proportions & ! p]fume is f9i%$4 ,if ! extracts are well season$1 ! p]fumes bl5d 9 p]fect h>mony )9 a few days1 & ?is "t may be ev5 %ort5$ by ! use ( ! app>atus illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #cb4 ,if ! extracts h be5 b rec5tly prep>$1 a long] "t w be requir$ be=e ! odor ( ! alcohol & ! sev]al con/itu5ts is imp]ceptible & all odors h bl5d$ into a h>moni\s :ole4 ,if ! manufactur] c af=d to all[ ! f9i%$ extracts & p]fumes to season = "s l5g? ( "t--( c\rse1 9 well-clos$ & completely fill$ vessels--9 a cool place1 !y w improve m>k$ly 9 quality4 ,p]fumes :i* conta9 b a s+le odor or 9 :i* a c]ta9 odor di/9ctly pr$om9ates are usually call$ by ! "n ( ! respective plant1 etc41 "u a ,fr5* title1 e4g41 extrait de violette1 extrait de resda1 etc4 ,comb9ations ( _m odors :i* produce an agreeable impression z a :ole1 :ile no "o odor pr$om9ates1 are call$ b\quets or wat]s2 = in/ance1 ,b\quet de ,jockey ,club1 ,eau de ,mille ,fleurs1 ,cologne ,wat]1 ,hung>ian ,wat]1 etc4 ,! mixture ( ! extracts is effect$ 9 /rong glass bottles ( a capacity exactly adapt$ to ! p]fume1 s z to be completely fill$4 ,= p]fumes :i* require season+ to make ! odors bl5d we use small glass balls ( :i* en\gh are introduc$ into ! bottle to make ! mixture rise into ! neck ( ! conta9] :i* is !n clos$ air-tight & pres]v$ 9 a d>k1 cool place4 ,( c\rse1 all p]fumes %\ld be p]fectly cle> & free f turbidity4 ,! extracts made f pomades or ess5tial oils are cle> & furni% p]fumes t rema9 s2 extracts prep>$ f balsams or res9s %\ld be all[$ to /& at re/ = sev]al weeks & !n be c>efully decant$ f ! s$im5t4 ,filtration %\ld be disp5s$ ) unless absolutely unavoidable1 on acc\nt ( ! l>ge am\nt ( oxyg5 ) :i* ! extract w\ld !reby come 9 contact1 to ! detrim5t ( ! odor4 ,! bottles 9 :i* ! p]fumes are mix$1 z well z ^? 9 :i* !y are put up = sale1 mu/ be p]fectly dry1 z a v small am\nt ( wat] (t5 suffices to sep>ate a portion ( ! aromatics & to r5d] ! liquid turbid or opalesc5t4 ,f9e p]fumes are always sold 9 glass vessels ) gr\nd-glass /opp]s2 cork has a peculi> odor :i* x w\ld communicate to ! liquid4 ,= ! m p]fect exclusion ( ! air ! /opp]s & bottle necks are moreov] cov]$ ) animal membrane1 %eet rubb]1 or vegetable p>*m5t1 ) an out] cap ( :ite glove lea!r4 ,9 ! case ( v exp5sive p]fumes1 mu* c>e is be/[$ on ! conta9]2 c]ta9 p]fumes are fill$ into bottles ( peculi> =m & color1 or into small porcela9 j>s provid$ ) correspond+ labels pr9t$ 9 gold & colors4 ,sometimes ! conta9] co/s _m times ! price ( ! p]fume4 ,b z ! f9e/ p]fumes are articles ( luxury 9 ! true/ s5se ( ! ^w1 !y require extreme c>e 9 _! putt+ up2 & good ta/e 9 ! selection ( ! conta9]s = fluids1 pomades1 cosmetics1 p[d]s1 etc41 is ( z mu* importance to ! p]fum] z ! possession ( a s5sitive & tra9$ olfactory organ4 ,9 ! foll[+ =mulas = ! prep>ation ( b\quets1 ! words extract1 ess5ce1 & t9cture h ! same mean+ z 0 expla9$ "u ,*apt] ,,xi4 ,= *eap p]fumes ! correspond+ ess5tial oils dissolv$ 9 alcohol1 t is1 ! correspond+ 8ess5ce10 is employ$ 9 place ( ! true 8extract40 ,,*apt] ,,xiv4 ,,=mulas ,,= ,,h&k]*ief ,,p]fumes4 ,,b\quet ,,de ,l',,alhambra4 ,extract ( cassie #a p9t4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a p9t4 ,ess5ce ( g]anium #a qt4 ,extract ( tub]ose #b qts4 ,t9cture ( civet #a p9t4 ,,extrait ,d',,ambre1 ,i4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #c qts4 ,t9cture ( musk #a p9ts4 ,oil ( rose #a oz4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #ac fl4 oz4 ,alcohol #c p9ts4 ,,extrait ,d',,ambre1 ,,ii4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #b qts4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #d qts ,t9cture ( musk #a qt4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #a p9t4 ,,b\quet ,,de ,l',,am\r4 ,extract ( cassie #a qt4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #a p9t4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a qt4 ,t9cture ( musk #a p9t4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,extract ( violet #a qt4 ,,bais]s ,,du ,,pr9temps 7,,spr+ ,,kisses74 ,extract ( cassie #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #c fl4 oz4 ,extract ( jasm9e #f fl4 oz4 ,extract ( rose #e p9ts4 ,extract ( violet #e p9ts4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #aj fl4 oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #abj gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon #cj gra9s4 ,note4 ,"h & 9 all succe$+ =mulas1 8oil ( lemon0 is meant to be ! f9e/ 8h&-press$0 oil4 ,,eau ,,de ,,b]l94 ,oil ( anise #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( c>damom #ae gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( cori&] #ae gra9s4 ,oil ( g]anium #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( melissa #ae gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( rose #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( santal #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( ?yme #ae gra9s4 ,alcohol #aj qts4 ,,buck+ham ,,fl[]s4 ,extract ( cassie #a qt4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #a p9t4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a qt4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a qt4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,t9cture ( orris root #a p9t4 ,oil ( lav5d] #dj gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #dj gra9s4 ,oil ( rose #ge gra9s4 ,,b\quet ,d',,&orre4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a p9t4 ,extract ( rose #a p9t4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a p9t4 ,extract ( violet #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( orris root #a p9t4 ,oil ( g]anium #ge gra9s4 ,,b\quet ,,du ,,bosphore4 ,extract ( cassie #a qt4 ,extract ( jasm9e p9t4 ,extract ( tub]ose p9t4 ,t9cture ( civet #ah gra9s4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 p9t4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #cj gra9s4 ,,b\quet ,,des ,,*asseurs4 ,extract ( cassie #bj fl4 oz4 ,t9cture ( musk #bj fl4 oz4 ,extract ( n]oli #bj fl4 oz4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #bj fl4 oz4 ,t9cture ( tonka bean #dj fl4 oz4 ,t9cture ( orris root #bj fl4 oz4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #e p9ts4 ,,b\quet ,,de ,,la ,,c\r4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #b oz4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a qt4 ,t9cture ( musk #b oz4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,extract ( violet #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,oil ( b]gamot #de gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon4 #de gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #de gra9s4 ,,b\quet ,,de ,,*ypre4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #a qt4 ,t9cture ( musk #a qt4 ,t9cture ( tonka #a qt4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #a qt4 ,t9cture ( orris root #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #b qts4 ,,b\quet ,,des ,d,,lices4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #a p9t4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a qt4 ,extract ( violet #a qt4 ,t9cture ( orris root #a p9t4 ,oil ( b]gamot oz4 ,oil ( lemon #a oz4 ,,b\quet ,,de ,,fleurs 7,,nosegay74 ,t9cture ( b5zo9 #e oz4 ,extract ( rose #c p9ts4 ,extract ( tub]ose #c p9ts4 ,extract ( violet #c p9ts4 ,oil ( b]gamot #b oz4 ,oil ( lemon #a oz4 ,oil ( orange peel #a oz4 ,,convall>ia 7,,lily ,,( ,,! ,,valley1 ,,fleurs ,,de ,,mai74 ,extract ( cassie #a p9ts4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a p9ts4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a p9ts4 ,extract ( rose #a p9ts4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #c p9ts4 ,oil ( bitt] almond oz4 ,:ile ?is p]fume is v pleasant1 its odor has no resemblance to ! delicate fragrance ( ,convall>ia majalis1 our ord9>y lily ( ! valley4 ,,c\ronne ,,de ,,fleurs 7,,g>l& ,,( ,,fl[]s74 ,extract ( cassie #bj fl4 oz4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #ac fl4 oz4 ,extract ( jasm9e #bj fl4 oz4 ,t9cture ( musk #ac fl4 oz4 ,t9cture ( orris root #e p9ts4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] #a oz4 ,oil ( clove #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #a oz4 ,oil ( rose #a oz4 ,alcohol #e p9ts4 ,,c\rt ,,b\quet4 ,oil ( b]gamot oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #bd gra9s4 ,alcohol #e oz4 ,orris root #a oz4 ,/orax1 liquid #h gra9s4 ,musk #c gra9s4 ,mac]ate = two weeks1 & filt]4 ,,e/]hazy ,,b\quets4 ,an old r5[n$ p]fume1 a =m] rival ( ,cologne wat]2 ! "n is d]iv$ f a noble ,hung>ian family4 ,a4 ,,b\quet ,d',,e/]hazy 7,,fr5* ,,=mula74 ,t9cture ( amb]gris p9t4 ,extract ( n]oli #a qt4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a qt4 ,t9cture ( tonka #a qt4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #a qt4 ,t9cture ( vetiv] #a qt4 ,t9cture ( orris root #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,oil ( clove #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( santal #ge gra9s4 ,b4 ,,b\quet ,,e/]hazy 7,,g]man ,,=mula74 ,calamus root #c oz4 ,cloves #c oz4 ,nutmeg #c oz4 ,alcohol #d qts4 ,mac]ate = two weeks & filt]2 9 ! filtrate dissolve3 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #f oz4 ,ammonia #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon #c oz4 ,t9cture ( musk #f oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #fj gra9s4 ,oil ( orange peel #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( rose #ge gra9s4 ,c,,dre ,,du ,,libanon 7,,c$>74 ,oil ( c$> wood #aj oz4 ,extract ( rose #a p9t4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,fiori ,d',,italia4 ,extract ( cassie #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #e oz4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a qt4 ,t9cture ( musk #e oz4 ,extract ( rose #b qts4 ,extract ( violet #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,,lilac 7,,extrait ,,de ,,lilas74 ,oil ( bitt] almond #ae gra9s4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #b qts4 ,extract ( tub]ose #c qts4 ,t9cture ( civet #b to #c oz4 ,! above-nam$ +r$i5ts are exce$+ly volatile2 accord+ to ! desir$ p]man5ce ( ! p]fume1 m or less ( ! extract ( civet is add$4 ,,ess5ce ,,des ,,b\quets1 ,a 7,,ess4 ,,b\quet74 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( orris root #b qts4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #b qts4 ,oil ( b]gamot #d oz4 ,oil ( lemon #a oz4 ,,ess4 ,,b\quet1 ,b4 ,extract ( cassie #a oz4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a oz4 ,t9cture ( musk #a oz4 ,oil ( cassia #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] #a oz4 ,oil ( n]oli oz4 ,oil ( clove #a oz4 ,oil ( palm>osa #a oz4 ,oil ( petit gra9 #a oz4 ,oil ( ,portugal #a oz4 ,oil ( rose #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( ?yme #ge gra9s4 ,alcohol #aj qts4 ,?is p]fume is mu* admir$ 9 ,engl&4 ,! title ,ess4 ,b\quet is an abbreviation ( ! full "n giv5 above4 ,,ess4 ,,b\quet1 ,c4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #b oz4 ,t9cture ( orris #h oz4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a p9t4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,,florida4 ,oil ( b]gamot #fj gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon #ij gra9s4 ,oil ( lav5d] #ae gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #h gra9s4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,b\quet ,,de ,,flore4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a p9t4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a p9t4 ,extract ( violet p9t4 ,t9cture ( b5zo9 #c fl4 oz4 ,t9cture ( /orax #c fl4 oz4 ,t9cture ( musk #a fl4 oz4 ,oil ( citronella oz4 ,alcohol #b qts4 ,,honeysuckle 7,,extrait ,,de ,,*,,vre-,,feuille74 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a qt4 ,extract ( violet #a qt4 ,t9cture ( tolu p9t4 ,t9cture ( vanilla p9t4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #ae gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #h gra9s4 ,,heliotrope1 ,a 7,,extrait ,,de ,h,,liotrope74 ,extract ( rose #b qts4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #ad oz4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #g oz4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #d qts4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #ge gra9s4 ,a v la/+ p]fume :i* is especially suitable = sc5t+ ! l95 9 a press4 ,,heliotrope1 ,b4 ,vanilla #ae gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #b drops4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #a drop4 ,musk #a gra9s4 ,b5zo9 #de gra9s4 ,cologne _s #c oz4 ,mac]ate = "o week1 & filt]4 ,,new-,,m[n ,,hay4 ,hay owes its fragrance p>tly to cum>91 :i* is pres5t 9 _m plants1 b 9 especially l>ge am\nt 9 tonka beans4 ,h5ce all simil> p]fumes mu/ conta9 t9cture ( tonka4 ,o!r aromatic sub/ances1 h[ev]1 contribute to ! odor ( hay1 b ! cum>9 gives1 z x 71 ! keynote to its real odor4 ,a v pleasant p]fume is made aft] ! foll[+ =mula3 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( g]anium #a qt4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a qt4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a qt4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,t9cture ( tonka #b qts4 ,"s add to ?is p]fume #a p9t ( extract ( cassie :i* imp>ts a gre5i% color to x4 ,,royal ,,horse-,,gu>d',s ,,b\quet4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #bj fl4 oz4 ,t9cture ( musk #aj fl4 oz4 ,extract ( rose #e p9ts4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #bj fl4 oz4 ,t9cture ( orris root #bj fl4 oz4 ,oil ( clove #abj gra9s4 ,,b\quet ,d',,irl&e4 ,extract ( :ite rose #e qts4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #a lb4 ,an exce$+ly f9e p]fume4 ,,hov5ia4 ,?is plant1 ,hov5ia dulcis1 indig5\s to ,japan1 has a peculi> odor1 :i*1 h[ev]1 is n pleasant to ,european ta/e4 ,! p]fume sold "u ?is "n has a special odor1 ?\gh x diff]s f t ( ! plant4 ,x is made accord+ to ! foll[+ =mula3 ,oil ( lemon #c oz4 ,oil ( clove oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( rose #ge gra9s4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,huntsman',s ,,nosegay4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a p9t4 ,extract ( cassie #f fl4 oz4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #f fl4 oz4 ,t9cture ( musk #aej gra9s4 ,t9cture ( tonka #a p9t4 ,oil ( citronella #aej gra9s4 ,alcohol #c qts4 ,,b\quet ,,du ,,japon4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( pat*\ly p9t4 ,extract ( v]b5a #a p9t4 ,ess5ce ( vetiv] #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( civet #c fl4 oz4 ,t9cture ( musk4 fl4 oz4 ,,eau ,,japonaise4 ,t9cture ( c$> wood #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( pat*\ly #a qt4 ,extract ( santal #a qt4 ,extract ( v]b5a #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( vetiv] #a p9t4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,,jockey ,,club4 ,engl& fir/ introduc$ a p]fume "u ?is "n1 :i* soon became popul> & 0 l>gely imitat$4 ,jockey ,club p]fume is among ! f9e/ kn[n to ! trade2 ! delicacy ( its odor re/s l>gely on ! extracts ( cassie & tub]ose :i* are employ$ 9 _! /ronge/ =m--an alcoholic extract ( a pomade well *>g$ ) ! odors ( ! plants4 ,z 9 ! case ( ,cologne wat]1 !re are a numb] ( widely div]g+ =mulas = its prep>ation1 f :i* we select a few :i* furni% excell5t p]fumes4 ,,jockey ,,club1 ,a 7,,engli% ,,=mula74 ,extract ( cassie #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris p9t4 ,extract ( rose #a p9ts4 ,extract ( tub]ose p9t4 ,t9cture ( orris root #c p9ts4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a p9ts4 ,oil ( b]gamot oz4 ,,jockey ,,club1 ,b 7,,fr5* ,,=mula74 ,extract ( cassie #a p9ts4 ,extract ( jasm9e #b p9ts4 ,extract ( rose #c p9ts4 ,extract ( tub]ose #c p9ts4 ,t9cture ( civet p9t4 ,,jockey ,,club1 ,c 7,,g]man ,,=mula74 ,extract ( cassie #a qt4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #ac fl4 oz4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a qt4 ,extract ( rose #a p9t4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a qt4 ,extract ( violet #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( civet #bj fl4 oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot oz4 ,oil ( citronella oz4 ,oil ( n]oli oz4 ,,jonquille 7,,extrait ,,de ,,jonquille74 ,extract ( jasm9e #b qts4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a qt4 ,extract ( tub]ose #b qts4 ,t9cture ( vanilla p9t4 ,,kiss ,,me ,,quick4 ,extract ( cassie #a qt4 ,extract ( amb]gris p9t4 ,extract ( n>cissus 7,jonquille7 #b qts4 ,t9cture ( tonka #a qt4 ,t9cture ( orris root #b qts4 ,t9cture ( civet p9t4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,oil ( citronella #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon grass #de gra9s4 ,?is p]fume1 :i* 0 once v popul>1 owes its peculi> refre%+ odor to ! t9cture ( tonka beans2 by increas+ ?is +r$i5t ! specific odor c be made m pron\nc$4 ,,b\quet ,,cosmopolite4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a p9t4 ,ess5ce ( lav5d] p9t4 ,t9cture ( musk p9t4 ,ess5ce ( pata*\ly p9t4 ,extract ( santal p9t4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( vanilla p9t4 ,extract ( violet #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a p9t4 ,oil ( citronella #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,,cologne ,,wat] 7,,eau ,,de ,,cologne74 ,?is fam\s p]fume1 :i* 0 fir/ made 9 ,cologne on ! ,rh9e1 its =mula be+ kept secret1 c be produc$ any:]e ( ! same quality z ! orig9al4 ,9 ord] to obta9 a fir/-class product1 x is necess>y1 besides us+ ! f9e/ oils--a matt] ( c\rse = all f9e p]fumes--to obs]ve ano!r special po9t4 ,e ,cologne wat] conta9s oils ( ! citron gr\p :i* develop _! be/ odors only 9 true _s ( w9e4 ,unless an alcohol di/ill$ f w9e is us$1 x w be impossible to make a ,cologne wat] ( really fir/ quality4 ,:ile x is possible to make a good cologne ) gra9 or potato _s1 especially if highly rectifi$1 comp>ison ) "o prep>$ f pure _s ( w9e w at once %[ a m>k$ diff]5ce4 ,! small am\nt ( nan?ic e!r1 h>dly demon/rable by *emical te/s b pres5t 9 e _s ( w9e1 ex]ts a decid$ influ5ce on ! flavor4 ,cologne wat] ( ! mo/ sup]ior & incomp>able quality is made by dissolv+ ! ess5tial oils1 except+ ! oils ( rosem>y & n]oli1 9 ! alcohol & di/ill+ x1 ! o!r oils be+ add$ to ! di/illate4 ,a v l>ge numb] ( =mulas = ! prep>ation ( ,cologne wat] h be5 publi%$ ( :i* we subjo9 a few4 ,we h purposely omitt$ ^? conta9+ _m ess5tial oils1 z exp]i5ce has taught u t !y are ( little value2 = x is n ! numb] ( oils t det]m9es ! f95ess ( a p]fume1 b ! mann] 9 :i* c]ta9 odors are comb9$4 ,a4 ,,f9e/ ,,cologne ,,wat] 7,,eau ,,de ,,cologne ,,sup,,rieure74 ,oil ( b]gamot #b oz4 ,oil ( lemon 7h&-press$7 #f oz4 ,oil ( n]oli ptale #c oz4 ,oil ( n]oli big>ade #a oz4 ,oil ( rosem>y #b oz4 ,alcohol #cj qts4 ,b4 ,,cologne ,,wat] 7,,second ,,quality74 ,oil ( b]gamot #d oz4 ,oil ( lemon #d oz4 ,oil ( n]oli ptale oz4 ,oil ( orange peel #d oz4 ,oil ( petit gra9 #b oz4 ,oil ( rosem>y #b oz4 ,alcohol #cj qts4 ,c4 ,,cologne ,,wat] 7,,ord9>y74 ,oil ( b]gamot #g oz4 ,oil ( lemon #c oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] #c oz4 ,alcohol #cj qts4 ,d4 ,,cologne ,,wat]4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon #c oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli oz4 ,oil ( rosem>y #ge gra9s4 ,alcohol #cj qts4 ,e4 ,,cologne ,,wat]4 ,oil ( b]gamot #b oz4 ,oil ( lemon #a oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] oz4 ,oil ( melissa oz4 ,oil ( n]oli oz4 ,alcohol #cj qts4 ,f4 ,,cologne ,,wat]4 ,oil ( b]gamot #c oz4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] oz4 ,oil ( melissa oz4 ,oil ( n]oli oz4 ,alcohol #cj qts4 ,g4 ,,cologne ,,wat]4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a lb4 ,oil ( lemon #a lb4 ,oil ( lav5d] #f oz4 ,oil ( n]oli oz4 ,oil ( petit gra9 #a oz4 ,oil ( orange peel #a lb4 ,oil ( rosem>y #aej gra9s4 ,alcohol #cj qts4 ,h4 ,,cologne ,,wat]4 ,oil ( b]gamot #b oz4 ,oil ( cajuput oz4 ,oil ( lemon #d oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] #f oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #boz4 ,oil ( orange peel #d oz4 ,oil ( petit gra9 oz4 ,orange-fl[] wat] #a qt4 ,alcohol #cj qts4 ,! num]\s =mulas %[ t oils ( lemon1 b]gamot1 & orange =m normal con/itu5ts ( e ,cologne wat]2 ! f9] grades always conta91 9 addition1 oils ( rosem>y & n]oli4 ,x is advisable to dissolve ! aromatics 9 v /rong alcohol & !n to effect ! dilution requir$ ) orange-fl[] or rose wat]4 ,?is dilution is also to be employ$ :5 a *eap] product is desir$4 ,,lav5d] ,,p]fumes4 ,engli% 7,mit*am7 oil ( lav5d] %\ld always be us$ :5 x is desir$ to produce p]fumes ( fir/ quality4 ,,eau ,,de ,,lav&e ,,ambr,e4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,oil ( g]anium #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( lav5d] #e oz4 ,musk #h gra9s4 ,p]u balsam #b oz4 ,/orax #d oz4 ,civet #ae gra9s4 ,alcohol #aj qts4 ,! ess5tial oils are dissolv$ 9 ! alcohol1 ! o!r sub/ances are mac]at$ 9 ! solution = "o mon?1 & ! liquid decant$4 ,,eau ,,de ,,lav&e ,,d\ble4 ,t9cture ( musk #c fl4 oz4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #c fl4 oz4 ,t9cture ( civet #c fl4 oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] #c oz4 ,rose wat] 7triple7 #a qt4 ,alcohol #aj qts4 ,,eau ,,de ,,lav&e ,a ,,mille ,,fleurs4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris p9t4 ,ess5ce ( lav5d] #b qts4 ,eau de mille fleurs 7see bel[1 page #ahf7 #b qts4 ,,leap-,,ye> ,,b\quet4 ,extract ( jasm9e #c p9ts4 ,ess5ce ( pat*\ly #a p9ts4 ,ess5ce ( santal #a p9ts4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a qt4 ,extract ( v]b5a #f fl4 oz4 ,ess5ce ( vetiv] #a p9ts4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a p9ts4 ,,eau ,,de ,,leipsic4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,oil ( n]oli oz4 ,oil ( orange peel #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( b]gamot #b oz4 ,oil ( rosem>y #ge gra9s4 ,orange-fl[] wat] #a qt4 ,alcohol #i p9ts4 ,,wallfl[] 7,,extrait ,,de ,,gir(l74 ,extract ( cassie #a p9t4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a qt4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( orris root #a p9t4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #h gra9s4 ,,lily 7,,extrait ,,de ,,lys74 ,extract ( cassie #c p9ts4 ,extract ( jasm9e #ac fl4 oz4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #bg fl4 oz4 ,extract ( rose #a p9t4 ,extract ( tub]ose #c qts4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #dj fl4 oz4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #cj gra9s4 ,,eau ,,de ,,lisbonne4 ,oil ( lemon #b oz4 ,oil ( orange peel #d oz4 ,oil ( rose oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,magnolia 7,,extrait ,,de ,,magnolia74 ,extract ( orange fl[] #b qts4 ,extract ( rose #d qts4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a qt4 ,extract ( violet #a qt4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #dj gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon #ae gra9s4 ,,lily ,,( ,,! ,,valley4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #aej gra9s4 ,extract ( jasm9e #g oz4 ,extract ( n]oli #g oz4 ,extract ( cassie #ad oz4 ,extract ( tub]ose #bh oz4 ,alcohol #bh oz4 ,,lily ,,( ,,! ,,valley ,,extract4 ,extract ( jasm9e #c oz4 ,extract ( ylang-ylang 7see bel[1 p4 #aih7 oz4 ,c>damom se$1 cru%$ #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( orris #aj drops4 ,mac]ate = a week1 & filt]4 ,! am\nt ( c>damom se$ is to be weigh$ exactly2 %\ld its odor /ill be too pron\nc$1 extract ( jasm9e %\ld be gradually add$ until ! "r aroma is obta9$4 ,,b\quet ,a ,,la ,,m>,,*ale4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris p9t4 ,t9cture ( musk p9t4 ,extract ( n]oli #a p9t4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a qt4 ,t9cture ( tonka #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( orris root #a p9t4 ,ess5ce ( vetiv] #a p9t4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,oil ( clove #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( santal #ge gra9s4 ,a ,,la ,,mode4 ,extract ( cassie #a qt4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a qt4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a qt4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a qt4 ,t9cture ( civet #a p9t4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( nutmeg #fj gra9s4 ,a4 ,,eau ,,de ,,mille ,,fleurs4 ,extract ( cassie #a p9t4 ,ess5ce ( c$> #a p9t4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( musk #f fl4 oz4 ,extract ( n]oli #a p9t4 ,extract ( pat*\ly #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #a p9t4 ,extract ( violet #a p9t4 ,ess5ce ( vetiv] #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( civet #f fl4 oz4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,oil ( g]anium oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] oz4 ,oil ( orange peel oz4 ,b4 ,,eau ,,de ,,mille ,,fleurs4 ,extract ( cassie #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris p9t4 ,ess5ce ( c$> p9t4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( musk p9t4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a p9t4 ,extract ( rose #a p9t4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( vanilla p9t4 ,extract ( violet #a p9t4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7simple7 #a qt4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #bd gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #bd gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #bd gra9s4 ,c4 ,,eau ,,de ,,mille ,,fleurs ,a ,,palm>ose4 ,extract ( cassie #f fl4 oz4 ,ess5ce ( c$> #c fl4 oz4 ,t9cture ( musk #c fl4 oz4 ,extract ( violet #f fl4 oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( c$> #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] oz4 ,oil ( clove oz4 ,oil ( palm>osa oz4 ,alcohol #i p9ts4 ,,fleurs ,,de ,,montpelli]4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #aj fl4 oz4 ,t9cture ( musk #aj fl4 oz4 ,extract ( rose #c p9ts4 ,extract ( tub]ose #c p9ts4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #c p9ts4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( clove oz4 ,,fleurs ,,des ,,*amps4 ,extract ( cassie #c oz4 ,extract ( jasm9e #c oz4 ,t9cture ( musk #c oz4 ,t9cture ( tonka #c p9ts4 ,t9cture ( orris root #g oz4 ,oil ( g]anium #a oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #a oz4 ,oil ( rose oz4 ,alcohol #c qts4 ,,huile ,,de ,,mille ,,fleurs4 7,= p]fum+ hair oils & pomades47 ,oil ( c9namon #aj drops4 ,oil ( n]oli #bj drops4 ,oil ( rose #bj drops4 ,oil ( clove -- ,oil ( orange peel #ae gra9s4 ,oil ( calamus #bj drops4 ,oil ( g]anium #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #b oz4 ,oil ( v]b5a #ge gra9s4 ,,musk 7,,extrait ,,de ,,musc74 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #c p9ts4 ,t9cture ( musk #c qts4 ,extract ( rose #a p9ts4 ,,m\ssel9e4 ,extract ( cassie #a qt4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a qt4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a qt4 ,b\quet la m>*ale #b qts4 ,oil ( santal oz4 ,,myrtle 7,,extrait ,,de ,,myr!74 ,extract ( jasm9e p9t4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a qt4 ,extract ( rose #b qts4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a qt4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #a qt4 ,,n>cissus 7,,extrait ,,de ,,n>cisse74 ,extract ( jonquille #b qts4 ,extract ( tub]ose #c qts4 ,t9cture ( /orax p9t4 ,t9cture ( tolu p9t4 ,,navy',s ,,nosegay4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( pat*\ly #c fl4 oz4 ,extract ( v]b5a #f fl4 oz4 ,ess5ce ( vetiv] #f fl4 oz4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( citronella oz4 ,oil ( nutmeg #ge gra9s4 ,,new-,,m[n ,,hay4 ,tonka beans1 9 pieces #ge gra9s4 ,orris root #aej gra9s4 ,vanill9 #h gra9s4 ,oil ( b]gamot #cj drops4 ,oil ( n]oli #b drops4 ,oil ( rose #b drops4 ,oil ( lav5d] #b drops4 ,oil ( clove #a drop4 ,pat*\ly h]b #c gra9s ,b5zoic acid #h gra9s4 ,nettle h]b #cj gra9s4 ,alcohol #g oz4 ,dige/ = two weeks1 & filt]4 ,,p9k 7,,extrait ,d',,illet74 ,extract ( cassie #b p9ts4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #b p9ts4 ,extract ( rose #e p9ts4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #bj fl4 oz4 ,oil ( clove #ge gra9s4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,sweet ,,pea4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a qt4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a qt4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #e oz4 ,,polyan?us4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a p9t4 ,extract ( violet p9t4 ,t9cture ( musk #b fl4 dra*ms4 ,oil ( n]oli oz4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,alcohol #b qts4 ,,eau ,,du ,,portugal4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon #b oz4 ,oil ( orange peel lb4 ,oil ( rose oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,que5 ,,victoria',s ,,p]fume4 ,extract ( cassie #aj fl4 oz4 ,extract ( rose #e p9ts4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #bj fl4 oz4 ,extract ( tub]ose #b p9ts4 ,extract ( violet #e p9ts4 ,t9cture ( civet #c fl4 oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot oz4 ,oil ( citron #aej gra9s4 ,,pat*\ly 7,,extrait ,,de ,,pat*\li74 ,oil ( pat*\ly #a oz4 ,oil ( rose #aej gra9s4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,res$a4 7,artificial1 almo/ indi/+ui%able f ! g5u9e47 ,tonka beans1 9 pieces #cj gra9s4 ,/orax1 liquid #ae gra9s4 ,orris root #a oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #aj drops4 ,oil ( rose #aj drops4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #b drops4 ,oil ( b]gamot #bj drops4 ,amb]gris #ae gra9s4 ,musk #h gra9s4 ,nettle h]b #cj gra9s4 ,alcohol lb4 ,mac]ate = f "o to two weeks1 & filt]4 ,,rondeletia ,,odoratissima4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #d oz4 ,t9cture ( musk #d oz4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #d oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] #b oz4 ,oil ( clove #a oz4 ,oil ( rose #ge gra9s4 ,alcohol #d qts4 ,! odor ( ,rondeletia has n ?us f> be5 isolat$1 at lea/ 9 ,europe 7! plant is indig5\s to ! ,antilles74 ,! oils ( lav5d] & clove toge!r con/itute ! odor kn[n 9 p]fum]y z ,rondeletia4 ,by increas+ ! quantity ( ! two oils1 ! /r5g? ( ! p]fume may be height5$4 ,,royal ,,nosegay4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #b oz4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a qt4 ,t9cture ( musk #c fl4 oz4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,t9cture ( vanilla p9t4 ,extract ( violet #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( vetiv] p9t4 ,oil ( b]gamot #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #a oz4 ,,rose ,,odors4 ,! art ( p]fum]y has endeavor$ to fix ?is mo/ magnific5t ( all odors1 & we mu/ confess t 9 ?is case x has succe$$ 9 solv+ ! problem 9 a mann] unequall$ 9 any o!r p]fume4 ,we are able to imitate n only ! pure rose odor1 b also ^? ( its sev]al v>ieties su* z ! tea rose1 moss rose1 etc41 bo? z to "* & int5sity4 ,f9e rose odors c be produc$ 9 _! full fragrance only f pomade extracts2 ! v>i\s rose oils furni% inf]ior products4 ,,rosa ,,c5tifolia1 ,a 7,,f9e/ ,,quality74 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,rose pomade #h lbs4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,rose1 ,b 7,,less ,,f9e74 ,oil ( rose #c oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,*9a ,,rose 7,,roses ,,jaunes74 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #b qts4 ,t9cture ( tonka p9t4 ,extract ( tub]ose #b qts4 ,extract ( v]b5a p9t4 ,,dog ,,rose 7,,eglant9e74 ,extract ( cassie #b p9ts4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #b p9ts4 ,extract ( rose #e p9ts4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #b p9ts4 ,oil ( lemon-grass oz4 ,oil ( n]oli oz4 ,,moss ,,rose 7,,rose ,,m\sseuse74 ,extract ( rose #b qts4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( musk lb4 ,,tea ,,rose 7,,rose ,,?,a74 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,extract ( g]anium #a qt4 ,extract ( orange fl[] p9t4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,extract ( santal p9t4 ,t9cture ( orris root p9t4 ,,:ite ,,rose 7,,roses ,,blan*es74 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a p9t4 ,extract ( violet #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( pat*\ly p9t4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,,:ite ,,rose4 ,oil ( rose #ae drops4 ,pat*\ly h]b #c gra9s4 ,musk #c gra9s4 ,cologne _s #g oz4 ,,tw9 ,,rose 7,,roses ,,jumelles74 ,extract ( rose #e qts4 ,oil ( rose #a oz4 ,,spr+ ,,nosegay4 ,extract ( cassie #a qt4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #ac fl4 oz4 ,ess5ce ( g]anium #a qt4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a qt4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #b qts4 ,t9cture ( musk #aj fl4 oz4 ,,suave4 ,extract ( cassie #a qt4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris p9t4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a qt4 ,t9cture ( musk p9t4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a qt4 ,t9cture ( vanilla p9t4 ,oil ( b]gamot oz4 ,oil ( clove #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( mace #cj gra9s4 ,,heliotrope ,,b\quet 7,,fleurs ,,sol/iciales74 ,extract ( cassie #ac fl4 oz4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #e fl4 oz4 ,extract ( jasm9e #b p9ts4 ,t9cture ( musk #e fl4 oz4 ,extract ( rose #e p9ts4 ,extract ( violet #b p9ts4 ,extract ( v]b5a #ac fl4 oz4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #b p9ts4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon #a oz4 ,,b\quet ,,de ,,/amb\l4 ,extract ( rose #b p9ts4 ,extract ( cassie #a qt4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a qt4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( civet p9t4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #aej gra9s4 ,,syr+a4 ,extract ( res$a #a oz4 ,extract ( violet #c oz4 ,pat*\ly h]b #e gra9s4 ,b5zoic acid #h gra9s4 ,oil ( orris #aj drops4 ,alcohol #a oz4 ,,tulipe ,,odorif,,rante4 ,extract ( cassie #f fl4 oz4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a qt4 ,extract ( rose #a p9t4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a qt4 ,t9cture ( orris root #a qt4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #ae gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #cj gra9s4 ,,hung>ian ,,wat] 7,,eau ,,hongroise74 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a p9t4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a p9t4 ,oil ( lemon #a oz4 ,oil ( melissa #a oz4 ,oil ( pepp]m9t #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( rosem>y #b oz4 ,alcohol 7f w9e7 #e qts4 ,,b\quet ,,de ,,virg9ie4 ,ess5ce ( g]anium #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( musk #a qt4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a qt4 ,extract ( santal #a p9t4 ,t9cture ( tonka #a qt4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a p9t4 ,,violet 7,,violettes74 ,violet pomade #f to #g lb4 ,extract ( cassie #f fl4 oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,?is is ! f9e/ among ! true violet p]fumes4 ,less f9e1 ?\gh /ill ( prime quality1 is ! foll[+3 ,extract ( cassie #b qts4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a qt4 ,t9cture ( orris root #a qt4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #ae gra9s4 ,,v]b5a ,a 7,,extrait ,,de ,,v]ve9e74 ,oil ( lemon grass oz4 ,oil ( lemon #ad oz4 ,oil ( orange peel #c oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,a *eap & pleasant p]fume3 ! foll[+ is f> sup]ior4 ,,v]b5a ,b4 ,oil ( lemon #aj oz4 ,oil ( lemon grass #f oz4 ,oil ( orange peel #e oz4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #b lb4 ,extract ( rose #c lb4 ,extract ( tub]ose #b lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,?is 8,extract ( ,v]b5a ,b0 is a modification ( t giv5 previ\sly1 on page #afd4 ,,extrait ,,de ,,v]ve9e ,c4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #cj fl4 oz4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,extract ( tub]ose #cj fl4 oz4 ,oil ( lemon #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon grass oz4 ,oil ( orange peel lb4 ,alcohol #d p9ts4 ,,violettes ,,des ,,montagnes4 ,extract ( cassie #ac fl4 oz4 ,extract ( jasm9e #ac fl4 oz4 ,extract ( rose #ac fl4 oz4 ,extract ( violet #b qts4 ,t9cture ( orris root #ac fl4 oz4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #cj gra9s4 ,,volcam]ia4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a p9t4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,extract ( tub]ose #b qts4 ,extract ( violet #b qts4 ,t9cture ( musk p9t4 ,,=e/ ,,breeze 7,,p9e-,,ne$le ,,odor47 ,oil ( turp5t9e #ad oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon grass oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,! oil ( turp5t9e mu/ be cle> l wat]1 & mo/ c>efully rectifi$4 ,if x c be obta9$ ( good quality1 ! oil di/ill$ f ! leaves or ne$les ( ,p9us sylve/ris1 commonly kn[n z p9e-ne$le oil or fir-wool oil1 is to be pref]r$ = ?is purpose4 ,/ill bett] is ! oil obta9$ f ,p9us ,pumilio4 ,,we/ ,,end4 ,extract ( cassie #a qt4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris p9t4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a qt4 ,t9cture ( musk p9t4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a qt4 ,extract ( violet #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #c p9ts4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon #ge gra9s4 ,,w9t]gre54 ,extract ( cassie #a qt4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #a p9t4 ,extract ( lav5d] #a p9t4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #a qt4 ,extract ( rose #b qts4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #a p9t4 ,ess5ce ( vetiv] #a p9t4 ,,fl[]s ,,( ,,! ,,isle ,,( ,,wight4 ,extract ( rose #a qt4 ,extract ( santal #b qts4 ,t9cture ( orris root #a qt4 ,ess5ce ( vetiv] #a p9t4 ,,ya*t ,,club4 ,extract ( cassie #f fl4 oz4 ,extract ( jasm9e #a qt4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #b qts4 ,extract ( santal #b qts4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #a p9t4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,b5zoic acid1 sublim$ #a oz4 ,! *>act]i/ic odor ( ?is p]fume dep5ds ^u ! volatile oil adh]+ to ! sublim$ b5zoic acid2 = ?is reason no o!r b5zoic acid %\ld be us$ ?an t obta9$ by sublimation4 ,,ylang-,,ylang4 ,cologne wat] #d qts4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #c oz4 ,t9cture ( tolu #ad oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( ylang-ylang oz4 ,,app5dix4 ,! great majority ( ! above-describ$ p]fumes are made ) extracts prep>$ f pomades2 h5ce _! co/ ( production is consid]able & ! sell+-price high4 ,= ! requirem5ts ( ! middle classes1 q fragrant p]fumes are manufactur$ by dissolv+ ! *eap] ess5tial oils 9 ord9>y alcohol1 & v>i\s new odors c be obta9$ by mix+ sev]al ( !m4 ,! extracts made ) *eap oils are well suit$ to ?is purpose4 ,! oils mo/ frequ5tly us$ = su* articles are ^? ( b]gamot1 lemon1 orange peel1 lav5d] fl[]s 7,fr5*71 lemon grass1 nutmeg1 clove1 & santal4 ,! alcohol mu/ be free f fusel oil & h a /r5g? ( at lea/ #gj ,tralles4 ,oils ) n v int5se odor are g5]ally us$ 9 ! proportion ( ab\t #b to #b ounces to ! qu>t ( alcohol2 half t quantity w suffice = /rong-sc5t$ oils su* z ^? ( lemon-grass1 clove1 & nutmeg4 ,f ^! simple solutions an exp]i5c$ manufactur] c produce v nice p]fumes by mix+ !m 9 due proportions2 !y are comp>atively *eap1 & sometimes !y yield relatively m pr(it ?an ! f9e/ articles1 ^: cont5ts & conta9]s g5]ally repres5t a consid]able outlay on ! "p ( ! manufactur]4 ,,*apt] ,,xv4 ,,ammoniacal ,,& ,,acid ,,p]fumes4 ,a4 ,,ammoniacal ,,p]fumes4 ,ammonia 7ammonia wat]7 has a disagreeable odor & ex]ts a v cau/ic effect on ! la*rymal gl&s4 ,despite ^! prop]ties1 ammonia1 9 a highly dilute condition & mix$ ) o!r aromatics1 f9ds manifold application 9 p]fum]y & s]ves p>ticul>ly = ! manufacture ( ! s-call$ smell+ salts1 or inexhau/ible salts1 us$ = fill+ smell+ bottles4 ,! liquid or cau/ic ammonia1 h[ev]1 is n s suitable = ! purposes ( ! p]fum] z ! c>bonate ( ammonia1 :i* :5 pure =ms colorless cry/als usually cov]$ ) a :ite du/ 7consi/+ ( bic>bonate ( ammonia72 ^!1 und]go+ gradual decomposition1 give (f ! odor ( ammonia & h5ce are m la/+ 9 smell+ bottles ?an ! pure liquid ammonia4 ,! ma9 ess5tial = bo? ( ^! sub/ances is purity4 ,cau/ic ammonia z well z c>bonate ( ammonia are n[ obta9$ on a l>ge scale f 8gas liquor10 b ! crude products always reta9 "s ( ! p5etrat+ odor ( coal t> :i* r5d]s !m valueless = ! purposes ( ! p]fum]4 ,we mu/1 !re=e1 make x a rule to use no?+ b p]fectly pure mat]ials :i*1 moreov]1 are easily to be _h 9 ! m>ket4 ,,inexhau/ible ,,salt 7,,sel ,,9,,puisable74 ,oil ( b]gamot #bd gra9s4 ,oil ( lav5d] #de gra9s4 ,oil ( mace #bd gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #bd gra9s4 ,oil ( rosem>y #de gra9s4 ,wat] ( ammonia #a qt4 ,! aromatics are plac$ 9 a bottle1 ! ammonia is add$1 & ! bottle vigor\sly %ak52 ! solution is soon effect$1 & ! turbid liquid c be at once fill$ into bottles4 ,accord+ to ! mat]ial f :i* ! conta9]s are made1 diff]5t me?ods mu/ be adopt$4 ,x is necess>y to give ! liquid su* =m z to prev5t its fl[+ out :5 ! vessel is inv]t$2 ?is is important1 z ! bottles are (t5 c>ri$ 9 dress pockets & ! ammonia de/roys mo/ colors4 ,z a rule ! vessels are fill$ ) indiff]5t por\s sub/ances :i* are moi/5$ ) ! p]fume4 ,if ! conta9] is made ( box wood1 ivory1 porcela91 or "s o!r opaque mat]ial1 x is fill$ ) fibres ( asbe/os or ) v small pieces ( sponge1 & z mu* p]fume is p\r$ 9 z ! sub/ance c take up2 ! vessels are !n inv]t$ into a porcela9 plate & all[$ to dra91 & are f9ally clos$ ) a loose plug ( cotton4 ,if ! conta9] is transp>5t1 x is bett] to use1 in/ead ( ! asbe/os or sponge :i* d n look neat1 ei!r small pieces ( :ite pumice /one1 p[d]$ glass1 small :ite glass beads1 or cry/als ( sulphate ( potassium :i* is insoluble 9 ! p]fume4 ,,:ite ,,smell+ ,,salt 7,,sel ,,blanc ,,p>fum74 ,:ile ! fir/-nam$ ammoniacal prep>ation is call$ a salt1 x is really no?+ b p]fum$ cau/ic ammonia2 b :ite smell+ salt is :at its "n indicates & c be p]fum$ z desir$ by ! consum]2 b z only c]ta9 sc5ts h>monize ) ammonia1 n e odor c be employ$2 ! mo/ appropriate are oils ^: odor resembles t ( rose1 & ! oils ( nutmeg & c9namon4 ,mix 9 a l>ge porcela9 j>-- ,c>bonate ( ammonia #b lb4 ,cau/ic ammonia #a lb4 ,cov] ! j> & leave x at re/4 ,aft] "s days ! mixture w h *ang$ into a firm mass ( monoc>bonate ( ammonia :i* is rubb$ to a co>se p[d]1 p]fum$1 & fill$ into bottles4 ,! above quantities require3 ,oil ( b]gamot #ae gra9s4 ,oil ( lav5d] #ae gra9s4 ,oil ( nutmeg #h gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #h gra9s4 ,oil ( rose #h gra9s4 ,oil ( c9namon #ge gra9s4 ,! oils are p\r$ into a mort> & rubb$ up ) ab\t "o-t5? ( ! salt2 ( ?is p]fum$ salt en\gh is add$ to ! sev]al portions ( ! mass1 & triturat$ until ! odor is equally di/ribut$4 ,= *eap] smell+ salts oils ( g]anium & cassia may be sub/itut$ = ! oils ( rose & c9namon4 ,,pre/on ,,salt 7,,sel ,,volatil74 ,9 ?is p]fume ammonia is cont9ually g5]at$2 ! salt is prep>$ by mix+ *loride ( ammonium or sal-ammoniac 9 f9e p[d] ) fre%ly slak$ lime4 ,f9e or *eap p]fume is add$1 accord+ to ! grade desir$4 ,! mixture ( sal-ammoniac & slak$ lime cont9ually develops small am\nts ( ammonia--x takes a long "t until ! decomposition is complete1 & = ?is reason a bottle fill$ ) ,pre/on salt reta9s ! odor ( ammonia = sev]al ye>s4 ,,eau ,,de ,,luce4 ,?is is ! only ammoniacal p]fume us$ 9 a liquid =m4 ,x is made accord+ to ! foll[+ =mula3 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #aj oz4 ,t9cture ( b5zo9 lb4 ,oil ( lav5d] #aej gra9s4 ,wat] ( ammonia #a lb4 ,! t9ctures are mix$ ) ! ammonia by agitation & imm$iately fill$ into bottles2 ! liquid %\ld h a milky appe>ance4 ,at times #aej gra9s ( :ite soap is add$ :i* aids 9 imp>t+ to ! liquid ! desir$ milky appe>ance4 ,9 f9e eau de ,luce ! odor ( amb]gris %\ld pr$om9ate2 ?is c be easily effect$ by increas+ ! am\nt ( t9cture ( amb]gris4 ,b4 ,,acid ,,p]fumes4 ,z !re is a gr\p ( p]fumes :i* is di/+ui%$ by _! *>act]i/ic odor ( ammonia & :i* we h !re=e call$ ammoniacal1 s !re is an important s]ies ( articles conta9+ acetic acid :i* are us$ cosmetically z s-call$ toilet v9eg>s1 & 9 "s wa%es4 ,ord9>y v9eg>1 i4e41 wat] conta9+ f\r to six p] c5t ( acetic acid1 has1 z is well kn[n1 a n unpleasant refre%+ odor & a pure acid ta/e4 ,pure acetic acid1 n[ made 9 l>ge quantities & ( excell5t quality1 is kn[n comm]cially z glacial acetic acid4 ,9 comm]ce1 x is cu/om>y to designate any acetic acid conta9+ #he or m p] c5t ( ! absolute acid1 z glacial acetic acid4 ,9 *emical or ph>macopial nom5clature1 h[ev]1 ! glacial acid is meant to be z ne> #ajj z possible4 ,9 p]fum]y1 an #he acid is suffici5tly /rong4 ,x =ms a colorless liquid ) a n>cotic odor & an int5sely acid ta/e2 x congeals into glassy cry/als at a temp]ature ( #h4e ,c4 7#dg ,f474 ,! latt] prop]ty is ( importance z %[+ ! purity ( ! acid4 ,conc5trat$ acetic acid1 l alcohol1 dissolves aromatic sub/ances1 ) :i* x =ms p]fumes :i* diff] f ^? made ) alcohol ma9ly by _! peculi> refre%+ aft]-odor :i* is due to ! acetic acid4 ,acetic acid c be saturat$ ) v>i\s odors & ?us furni% f9e p]fumes2 b = s-call$ toilet v9eg>s :i* are us$ z wa%es ! acetic acid mu/ be prop]ly dilut$1 s9ce ! conc5trat$ acid has pron\nc$ cau/ic prop]ties1 r$d5s ! sk91 & may ev5 produce de/ructive effects on s5sitive p>ts su* z ! lips4 ,,aromatic ,,v9eg> 7,,v9aigre ,,aromatique74 ,glacial acetic acid #b lb4 ,camphor #d oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] oz4 ,oil ( mace #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( rosem>y #aej gra9s4 ,in/ead ( ! p]fumes "h giv51 f9] odors may be employ$ = ! production ( sup]ior toilet v9eg>s2 ?us we f9d v9aigre ambr1 au musc1 la violette1 au jasm91 etc41 accord+ to ! p]fume us$4 ,z conc5trat$ acetic acid dissolves mo/ aromatic sub/ances ! same z alcohol1 all alcoholic p]fumes may h _! c\nt]p>ts 9 acetic acid2 b ! aromatics %\ld nev] be add$ 9 s l>ge am\nt z to mask ! *>act]i/ic odor ( ! acetic acid4 ,a v pleasant v9eg> may be produc$ by comb9+ an alcoholic ) an acid p]fume1 z 9 ! foll[+3 ,,spic$ ,,v9eg> 7,,v9aigre ,,aux ,,pices74 #a4 ,mac]ate3 ,leaves ( g]anium1 lav5d]1 pepp]m9t1 rosem>y1 & sage1 ( ea* #a oz4 ,9 alcohol ( #hj #a lb4 #b4 ,mac]ate3 ,angelica root1 calamus root1 camphor1 mace1 nutmeg1 cloves1 ( ea* oz4 ,9 glacial acetic acid #b lb4 = two weeks1 mix ! liquids1 & filt] !m into a bottle :i* %\ld n be completely fill$4 ,! long] ?is mixture is all[$ to season 9 ! bottle1 ! f9] w be ! aroma2 = 9 ! c\rse ( "t ! alcohol & acetic acid react on ea* o!r & =m acetic e!r1 :i* likewise possesses a pleasant aromatic odor4 ,c]ta9 aromatic v9eg>s1 l ammoniacal p]fumes1 are fill$ into smell+ bottles conta9+ ! same por\s sub/ances = _! absorption1 namely1 sponge1 pumice /one1 cry/als ( potassium sulphate1 etc4 ,,=mulas ,,= ,,toilet ,,v9eg>s4 ,,v9aigre ,a ,,la ,,rose4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #aj oz4 ,:ite-w9e v9eg> #a qt4 ,?is %\ld be color$ a pale rose t9t ) "o ( ! dye-/uffs to be enum]at$ h]eaft]4 ,! use ( true w9e v9eg> is to be recomm5d$ = ?is & all ! foll[+ toilet v9eg>s1 z ! nan?ic e!r x conta9s has a favorable effect on ! f95ess ( ! odor4 ,,v9aigre ,,aux ,,fleurs ,d',,oranges4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #g oz4 ,:ite-w9e v9eg> #a qt4 ,?is is usually left colorless4 ,,v9aigre ,,aux ,,violettes4 ,extract ( cassie #h oz4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #c oz4 ,t9cture ( orris root #e oz4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #e oz4 ,:ite-w9e v9eg> #a qt4 ,,v9aigre ,,de ,,quatre ,,voleurs4 ,leaves ( lav5d]1 pepp]m9t1 rue1 rosem>y1 & c9namon1 ( ea* #c oz4 ,calamus1 mace1 nutmeg1 ( ea* #aej gra9s4 ,camphor oz4 ,mac]at$ 9 alcohol #g oz4 ,& acetic acid #d lb4 ,,prev5tive ,,v9eg> 7,,v9aigre ,,hygi,,nique74 ,b5zo9 #b oz4 ,lav5d] oz4 ,cloves #aej gra9s4 ,m>joram oz4 ,c9namon #aej gra9s4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,:ite-w9e v9eg> #b qts4 ,mac]ate ! solids ) ! alcohol & v9eg>4 ,,v9aigre ,,de ,,cologne4 ,cologne wat] #a qt4 ,glacial acetic acid #a oz4 ,z ?is v9eg> is made by mix+ an alcoholic p]fume ) acetic acid1 s all o!r alcoholic p]fumes may be employ$ = a l purpose2 b ! quantities mu/ be det]m9$ by exp]im5t1 = ! v>i\s aromatics diff] 9 ! int5sity ( _! odor4 ,,v9aigre ,,!r4 ,glacial acetic acid #ad oz4 ,acetic e!r #a oz4 ,nitr\s e!r oz4 ,wat] #e qts4 ,! wat] %\ld be add$ aft] ! e!rs h be5 dissolv$ 9 ! glacial acetic acid4 ,,v9aigre ,,de ,,lav&e4 ,lav5d] wat] #d qts4 ,rose wat] #a p9t4 ,glacial acetic acid lb4 ,to be /a9$ a blui% color ) indigo-c>m9e4 ,,orange-,,fl[] ,,v9eg>4 ,orange-fl[] wat] #d qts4 ,glacial acetic acid #g oz4 ,,mall>d',s ,,toilet ,,v9eg>4 ,t9cture ( b5zo9 #a oz4 ,t9cture ( tolu #a oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( orange peel oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] #ae gra9s4 ,oil ( rosem>y #ae gra9s4 ,t9cture ( musk #ae gra9s4 ,conc5trat$ acetic acid #ba oz4 ,alcohol #d lb4 ,,toilet ,,v9eg> 7,,fr5* ,,=mula74 ,oil ( b]gamot #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( rose #h drops4 ,oil ( n]oli #e drops4 ,b5zo9 #ge gra9s4 ,vanill9 #ae gra9s4 ,conc5trat$ acetic acid oz4 ,alcohol lb4 ,mac]ate = two weeks1 & filt]4 ,,v9aigre ,,polyan!4 ,glacial acetic acid #g oz4 ,t9cture ( b5zo9 #a oz4 ,t9cture ( tolu #a oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( g]anium #aej gra9s4 ,wat] #b qts4 ,to be /a9$ ) t9cture ( kram]ia 7rhatany74 ,,*apt] ,,xvi4 ,,dry-,,p]fumes4 ,z a matt] ( c\rse1 dry p]fumes are ( great] antiquity ?an fluid2 aromatic sub/ances require m]ely to be dri$ 9 ord] to reta9 _! fragrance p]man5tly4 ,! olde/ civiliz$ p kn[n 9 hi/ory--,egyptians1 ,assyrians1 ,p]sians1 ,babylonians1 & ! ,jews1 z num]\s passages 9 ! ,bible prove--us$ dri$ portions ( plants1 leaves1 fl[]s1 & res9s z p]fumes & inc5se4 ,to ?is day !re is kept up q a trade 9 ,val]iana celtica1 a /rong-sc5t$ ,alp9e plant1 & 9 p[d]$ amb]1 ) ! ,ori5t1 :]e !y are us$ = sc5t bags & inc5se respectively4 ,! ,ca?olic ,*ur* reta9s to ! pres5t "t ! ,jewi% rite ( burn+ inc5se1 & 9 our museums w be f\nd urns1 tak5 f ,egyptian graves1 f :i* pleasant odors escape ev5 n[ aft] ne>ly f\r ?\s& ye>s1 ow+ to ! aromatic res9s ) :i* !y are fill$4 ,x is said1 too1 t ! delightful volatile odors ( our h&k]*ief p]fumes 7 fir/ prep>$ by an ,italian nam$ ,frangipanni conceiv+ ! idea ( treat+ a dry mixture ( diff]5t aromatic plants ) alcohol & ?us imp>t+ ! odor !y conta9$ to ! latt]4 ,n all aromatics c be made into sa*et p[d]s2 x is well kn[n t ! delightful odor ( violets *anges into a positively disagreeable smell :5 ! fl[]s are dri$1 & ! same rem>k applies to ! blossoms ( ! lily ( ! valley1 mignonette1 lily1 & mo/ ( our fragrant plants4 ,on ! o!r h&1 "s portions ( plants1 especially ^? 9 :i* ! odor\s pr9ciple is conta9$ n only 9 ! fl[] b 9 all p>ts ( ! plant1 z 9 ! m9ts1 sage1 & mo/ ,labiat1 rema9 fragrant = a long "t aft] dry+ & h5ce c be employ$ = sa*ets4 ,besides ! plants nam$1 lav5d]1 rose leaves1 ! leaves ( ! lemon & orange tree1 ,acacia f>nesiana1 pat*\ly h]b1 & "s o!r plants cont9ue fragrant aft] dry+4 ,any vegetable sub/ance to be us$ = sa*ets mu/ be completely dri$ s z to prev5t m\ld4 ,! dry+ %\ld be effect$ 9 a w>m1 %ady place1 sometimes 9 heat$ *amb]s2 direct sunlight & excessive heat injure ! /r5g? ( ! odor1 a portion ( ! aromatics becom+ res9ifi$ & volatiliz$4 ,if artificial heat is employ$1 a temp]ature betwe5 #dj & #de ,c4 7#ajd-aac ,f47 is mo/ suitable4 ,! ext]nal =m ( ?is class ( prep>ations v>ies ( c\rse ) ! public = :i* x is int5d$4 ,exp5sive sa*ets are sold 9 silk bags ) diff]5t ornam5tation2 ^? int5d$ = ! ,ori5t are g5]ally put up z small silk cu%ions ri*ly ornam5t$ ) gold & colors to suit ,ori5tal ta/e4 ,*eap sa*ets are sold 9 envelopes or 9 r\nd boxes4 ,x is cu/om>y to h ! +r$i5ts gr\nd or f9ely p[d]$1 = :i* purpose small h&-mills w g5]ally suffice4 ,,*apt] ,,xvii4 ,,=mulas ,,= ,,dry ,,p]fumes 7,,sa*ets74 ,,ceylon ,,sa*et ,,p[d]4 ,mace #bc oz4 ,pat*\ly #bh oz4 ,vetiv] root #ce oz4 ,oil ( orange peel #a oz4 ,oil ( pepp]m9t #c oz4 ,,cyprian ,,sa*et ,,p[d]4 ,c$> wood #b lb4 ,rhodium #b lb4 ,santal wood #b lb4 ,oil ( rhodium oz4 ,! oil is mix$ ) ! f9ely p[d]$ or rasp$ woods & di/ribut$ 9 ! mass by trituration4 ,,field ,,fl[] ,,sa*et ,,p[d]4 ,calamus root #a lb4 ,c>away lb4 ,lav5d] #a lb4 ,m>joram lb4 ,musk #cj gra9s4 ,cloves #b oz4 ,pepp]m9t lb4 ,rose leaves #a lb4 ,rosem>y #c oz4 ,?yme lb4 ,,frangipanni ,,sa*et ,,p[d]4 ,musk #a oz4 ,sage lb4 ,santal wood lb4 ,orris root #f lb4 ,vetiv] lb4 ,civet oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( santal #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( rhodium #ge gra9s4 ,,heliotrope ,,sa*et ,,p[d]4 ,musk oz4 ,rose leaves #b lb4 ,tonka beans #a lb4 ,vanilla lb4 ,orris root #d lb4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #cj gra9s4 ,,indian ,,sa*et ,,p[d]4 ,santal wood #c oz4 ,orris root #ba oz4 ,c9namon #aj oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] #ge gra9s4 ,cloves #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( rose #aej gra9s4 ,,lav5d] ,,sa*et ,,p[d]4 ,b5zo9 #a lb4 ,lav5d] fl[]s #d lb4 ,oil ( lav5d] #a oz4 ,oil ( rose #ge gra9s4 ,,m>%al ,,sa*et ,,p[d]4 ,cassia lb4 ,musk #ge gra9s4 ,cloves lb4 ,rose leaves lb4 ,santal wood #a lb4 ,orris root #a lb4 ,,mille ,,fleurs ,,sa*et ,,p[d]4 ,b5zo9 #a lb4 ,lav5d] #a lb4 ,musk #cj gra9s4 ,cloves #d oz4 ,allspice #b oz4 ,rose leaves #a lb4 ,santal wood #d oz4 ,tonka beans #d oz4 ,vanilla #d oz4 ,orris root #a lb4 ,civet #cj gra9s4 ,c9namon oz4 ,,musl9 ,,sa*et ,,p[d]4 ,b5zo9 lb4 ,santal wood #a lb4 ,?yme #a lb4 ,orris root #a lb4 ,vetiv] root #b lb4 ,oil ( g]anium #ge gra9s4 ,,olla ,,podrida4 ,?is "n is appli$ 9 ,spa9 to a di% prep>$ f v>i\s remnants ( food4 ,! olla podrida ( ! p]fum] is made f ! remnants ( ! aromatic vegetable sub/ances aft] _! extraction ) alcohol1 petroleum e!r1 etc4 ,al?\gh vanilla1 c9namon1 nutmeg1 etc41 be repeat$ly extract$1 !y /ill reta9 _! *>act]i/ic odor1 ?\gh some:at fa9t]1 & ?us !y c be us$ ) advantage = sa*et p[d]s int5d$ = fill+ bags1 cu%ions1 etc4 ,if mix$ 9 correspond+ proportions1 !y c be made use ( = all ! sa*ets "h enum]at$4 ,no def9ite =mula c be giv5 = a peculi> dry p]fume to be call$ ,olla podrida2 ! olfactory organ is ! be/ guide4 ,,pat*\ly ,,p[d]4 ,pat*\ly h]b #b lb4 ,oil ( pat*\ly #cj gra9s4 ,musk #ae gra9s4 ,! musk is rubb$ up ) gradually increas$ quantities ( ! pat*\ly h]b & ) ! addition ( ! oil ( pat*\ly2 ! intimate mixture ( ! p[d] saturat$ ) musk & oil ( pat*\ly & ! re/ ( ! p[d] is effect$ by prolong$ /irr+ ( ! two p[d]s 9 a l>ge vessel4 ,! same process is foll[$ ) all o!r dry p[d]s 9 :i* a small am\nt ( a solid ) int5se odor or ( an ess5tial oil is to be mix$ ) a l>ge quantity ( p[d]4 ,,p]sian ,,sa*et ,,p[d]4 ,musk #cj gra9s4 ,rose leaves #a lb4 ,tonka beans #c oz4 ,orris root #b lb4 ,oil ( nutmeg #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( rose #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( c9namon #ge gra9s4 ,,portugal ,,p[d]4 ,lemon peels #a lb4 ,orange peels #b lb4 ,orris root #a lb4 ,c9namon #c oz4 ,oil ( lemon grass #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( orange peel #b oz4 ,,potp\rri4 ,_m widely diff]+ p]fumes are sold 9 ! m>ket "u ?is "n2 a good =mula = its prep>ation is ! foll[+3 ,lav5d] #a lb4 ,cloves #b oz4 ,allspice #b oz4 ,rose leaves #a lb4 ,res$a #a oz4 ,orris root lb4 ,vanilla #aej gra9s4 ,c9namon #a oz4 ,s&1 or table salt1 etc4 #a lb4 ,! admixture ( f9e :ite s&1 table salt1 or p[d]$ glass or m>ble1 etc41 is made m]ely = ! purpose ( increas+ ! weight4 ,,rose ,,sa*et ,,p[d]1 ,a4 ,g]anium h]b #c oz4 ,rose leaves #b lb4 ,santal wood #a lb4 ,oil ( rose oz4 ,,rose ,,sa*et ,,p[d]1 ,b4 ,rose leaves #b lb4 ,santal wood #a lb4 ,oil ( rose #a oz4 ,,santal ,,p[d]1 :i* is simply f9ely rasp$ santal wood1 is also sometimes sold z rose sa*et p[d] :5 x has receiv$ an addition ( "s oil ( g]anium4 ,,violet ,,sa*et ,,p[d]4 ,b5zo9 lb4 ,musk #cj gra9s4 ,orange fl[]s #a oz4 ,rose leaves #a lb4 ,orris root #b lb4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon grass #cj gra9s4 ,,violet ,,sa*et ,,p[d]4 ,orris root1 p[d]$ #a lb4 ,musk #h gra9s4 ,vanill9 #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( rose #be drops4 ,oil ( petit gra9 #aej gra9s4 ,cologne wat] #c oz4 ,mix intimately 9 a porcela9 mort>4 ,,v]b5a ,,sa*et ,,p[d]4 ,lemon peels #a lb4 ,c>away lb4 ,orange peels #a lb4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon grass #ge gra9s4 ,,vetiv] ,,sa*et ,,p[d]4 ,vetiv] root #b lb4 ,musk #ae gra9s4 ,civet #bj gra9s4 ,,*apt] ,,xviii4 ,,! ,,p]fumes ,,us$ ,,= ,,fumigation4 ,accord+ to ! use made ( !m1 p]fumes = fumigation may be divid$ into two gr\ps3 ^? :i* develop _! fragrance on be+ burn$1 & ^? :i* d s on be+ m]ely heat$4 ,! =m] gr\p includes pa/ils & ribbons1 ! latt] fumigat+ p[d]s & wat]s4 ,,fumigat+ ,,pa/ils4 ,fr5*--,pa/illes fumigatoires2 ,g]man--,ru*]k]z54 ,pa/ils consi/ 9 ! ma9 ( *>coal to :i* en\gh saltpetre is add$ to make ! light$ mass gl[ cont9u\sly & leave a pure :ite a%4 ,to ?is mass are add$ v>i\s aromatic sub/ances :i* are gradually volatiliz$ by ! heat & fill ! surr\nd+ air ) _! p]fume4 ,x is important to obs]ve t only ord9>y saltpetre 7nitrate ( potassium7 is to be us$ = ?is purpose1 & n ! s-call$ ,*ili saltpetre 7nitrate ( sodium7 :i* becomes moi/ 9 ! air4 ,= ord9>y pa/ils f9ely rasp$ fragrant woods su* z c$> or santal are frequ5tly employ$4 ,dur+ ! sl[ combu/ion1 h[ev]1 ! wood gives (f products ( a pung5t or disagreeable odor su* z acetic acid & empyreumatic products1 :i* less5 ! fragrance4 ,f9e pa/ils are compos$ ( res9s & ess5tial oils & are usually =m$ into cones two-fif?s to f\r-fif?s ( an in* high1 by be+ press$ 9 metal m\lds4 ,fumigat+ pa/ils are manufactur$ z foll[s4 ,ea* solid +r$i5t is f9ely p[d]$ by itself1 & ! necess>y quantities are !n put into a wide porcela9 di% & intimately mix$ ) a flat spatula4 ,9 ord] to conf9e ! du/1 ! di% is cov]$ ) a clo? dur+ ?is op]ation4 ,! mixture be+ complet$1 ! ess5tial oils are add$1 toge!r ) en\gh mucilage ( acacia to =m a pla/ic mass to be knead$ ) ! pe/le1 & :i* aft] dry+ w h a suffici5tly firm consi/5ce4 ,,pa/illes ,,ori5tales4 ,*>coal #a lb4 ,saltpetre #c oz4 ,b5zo9 lb4 ,p[d]$ amb] #c oz4 ,tolu balsam #b oz4 ,! *>coal = ?is & all o!r pa/ils %\ld be made f s(t woods 7will[1 popl>1 etc474 ,! *>act]i/ic ( ^! pa/ils is ! amb] !y conta9 7! (fal f manufactories is us$7 & :i* on ignition gives (f a peculi> odor mu* priz$ 9 ! ,ori5t1 r ?an 9 ,europe or ,am]ica4 ,,pa/illes ,,du ,s,,rail4 ,*>coal #a lb4 ,saltpetre #c oz4 ,b5zo9 lb4 ,santal wood #e oz4 ,opium #a oz4 ,tolu balsam #b oz4 ,?is =mula is "h giv5 z usually quot$4 ,x may be /at$1 h[ev]1 t ! opium may be omitt$ entirely1 z x nei!r contributes to ! fragrance1 nor produces1 by be+ burn$ 9 ?is mann]1 any ( ! suppos$ exhil>at+ or intoxicat+ effects :i* x may produce :5 us$ 9 o!r =ms or employ$ 9 o!r ways4 ,,baguettes ,,enc5soires 7,,fumigat+ ,,p5cils74 ,b5zo9 #ad oz4 ,*>coal #a oz4 ,p]u balsam #a oz4 ,/orax #b oz4 ,%ellac #c oz4 ,olibanum #e oz4 ,civet #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( orange peel #a oz4 ,oil ( santal oz4 ,melt ! b5zo91 *>coal1 %ellac1 & olibanum 9 a bright iron pan at ! l[e/ possible heat2 take ! pan f ! fire & add ! o!r +r$i5ts1 heat be+ aga9 appli$ f "t to "t to keep ! mass 9 a liquid /ate4 ,! pla/ic mass is roll$ out on a m>ble slab into rods ! ?ickness ( a lead p5cil4 ,su* a p5cil ne$ be b lightly pass$ ov] a hot surface to volatilize ! aromatics x conta9s4 ,,pa/illes ,,odorif,,rantes4 ,*>coal #b lb4 ,saltpetre #c oz4 ,b5zo9 #a lb4 ,cloves #g oz4 ,tolu balsam #g oz4 ,vanilla #g oz4 ,vetiv] root #g oz4 ,c9namon #c oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( santal oz4 ,?is & ! foll[+ =mula give ! f9e/ mixtures = pa/ils4 ,,pa/illes ,,enbaum,,es4 ,*>coal #b lb4 ,saltpetre #b oz4 ,b5zoic acid1 sublim$ #a lb4 ,musk #ae gra9s4 ,civet #ae gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon grass #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( lav5d] #ae gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #ae gra9s4 ,oil ( ?yme #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( c9namon #cj gra9s4 ,,p\dre ,d',,enc5s 7,,inc5se ,,p[d]74 ,b5zo9 lb4 ,casc>illa lb4 ,musk #ae gra9s4 ,santal wood #a lb4 ,saltpetre #c oz4 ,vetiv] root #e oz4 ,olibanum #a lb4 ,c9namon #e oz4 ,dissolve ! saltpetre 9 wat]1 saturate ! p[d]s ) ! solution1 dry ! mass1 & aga9 r$uce x to p[d]4 ,?is p[d]1 /rewn on a w>m surface su* z ! top ( a /ove1 takes fire spontane\sly & gradually disappe>s4 ,,fumigat+ ,,pap]s ,,& ,,wicks 7,,bruges ,,ribbons74 ,fr5*--,papi] fumigations4 ,ruban de ,bruges2 ,g]man--,ru*]papi]e4 ,ru*]bnd]4 ,fumigat+ pap]s are /rips impregnat$ ) sub/ances :i* become fragrant on be+ heat$2 su* a /rip ne$ m]ely be plac$ on a /ove or held ov] a flame 9 ord] to p]fume a :ole room4 ,fumigat+ pap]s are divid$ into two gr\ps3 ^? meant to be burn$1 & ^? meant to be us$ repeat$ly4 ,! =m]1 be=e be+ treat$ ) aromatics1 are dipp$ into saltpetre solution2 ! latt]1 9 ord] to r5d] !m incombu/ible1 are fir/ dipp$ into a hot alum solution s t !y are only *>r$ by a /rong heat1 b n entirely consum$4 ,a4 ,,inflammable ,,fumigat+ ,,pap]4 ,papi] ,fumigatoire ,inflammable4 ,! pap] is dipp$ into a solution ( #c to #e ounces ( saltpetre 9 wat]2 aft] dry+ x is imm]s$ 9 a /rong t9cture ( b5zo9 or olibanum & aga9 dri$4 ,an excell5t pap] is made accord+ to ! foll[+ =mula3 ,b5zo9 #e oz4 ,santal wood #c oz4 ,olibanum #c oz4 ,oil ( lemon grass #aej gra9s4 ,ess5ce ( vetiv] #a oz4 ,alcohol4 #a qt4 ,= use1 ! pap] is t\*$ ) a r$-hot sub/ance1 n a flame4 ,x beg9s to gl[ at once )\t bur/+ into flame1 giv+ (f num]\s sp>ks & a pleasant odor4 ,b4 ,,non-,,inflammable ,,fumigat+ ,,pap]4 ,papi] ,fumigatoire ,p]man5t4 ,?is pap] is prep>$ by dipp+ x 9 a hot solution ( #c oz4 ( alum 9 "o qu>t ( wat]2 aft] dry+1 x is saturat$ ) ! foll[+ mixture3 ,b5zo9 #g oz4 ,tolu balsam #g oz4 ,t9cture ( tonka #g oz4 ,ess5ce ( vetiv] #g oz4 ,alcohol #bj fl4 oz4 ,?is pap]1 :5 heat$1 diffuses a v pleasant odor & c be us$ repeat$ly4 ,x does n burn1 & /rong heat only *>s x4 ,"s manufactur]s make inf]ior fumigat+ pap]s by dipp+ ! alum pap] simply 9 melt$ b5zo9 or olibanum4 ,c4 ,,fumigat+ ,,ribbons are no?+ b f9e flat lamp wicks treat$ fir/ ) saltpetre solution & !n ) ! prec$+ mixture4 ,! wick is roll$ up & plac$ 9 a vessel provid$ ) a lamp burn]4 ,x is ins]t$ 9 ! burn] l any o!r wick & :5 light$ burns d[n to ! metal & goes out unless screw$ up high]4 ,fumigat+ vessels provid$ ) ^! wicks are v practical because1 if arti/ic 9 =m1 !y =m q an ornam5t to ! room & c be in/antly set 9 op]ation4 ,a ,fr5* =mula gives ! foll[+ mixture = saturat+ ! wicks3 ,b5zo9 #a lb4 ,musk oz4 ,myrrh #c oz4 ,tolu balsam #c oz4 ,t9cture ( orris root #a p9t4 ,oil ( rose #ae gra9s4 ,,fumigat+ ,,wat]s ,,& ,,v9eg>s 7,,eaux ,,enc5soires1 ,,v9aigres ,,enc5soires74 ,^! fluids are no?+ b /rong solutions ( v>i\s aromatics 9 alcohol1 a few drops ( :i* suffice1 if evaporat$ on a w>m plate1 to p]fume a l>ge room4 ,! foll[+ is a good =mula = fumigat+ wat]4 ,b5zo9 #g oz4 ,casc>illa #c oz4 ,c>damoms #c oz4 ,mace #a oz4 ,musk #aej gra9s4 ,p]u balsam #a oz4 ,/orax #a oz4 ,tolu balsam #a oz4 ,olibanum #c oz4 ,orris root #ad oz4 ,civet #aej gra9s4 ,c9namon #g oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon #a oz4 ,oil ( g]anium oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #aej gra9s4 ,alcohol #b qts4 ,( c\rse1 ?is liquid mu/ be filt]$ aft] prolong$ mac]ation4 ,by add+ to x #a oz4 ( glacial acetic acid we obta9 ! s-call$ fumigat+ v9eg> :i* is v useful = expell+ bad odors4 ,,fumigat+ ,,p[d]s 7,,p\dres ,,enc5soires74 ,^! p[d]s :i* ne$ only to be heat$ 9 ord] to diffuse "o ( ! mo/ pleasant odors1 are easily prep>$ by intimately mix+ ! gr\nd solids ) ! oils by means ( a spatula4 ,we add ?ree r5[n$ =mulas = ! manufacture ( su* p[d]s4 ,a4 ,,p\dre ,,imp,,riale4 ,b5zo9 #c oz4 ,casc>illa #a oz4 ,lav5d] #a oz4 ,rose leaves #a oz4 ,santal wood #a oz4 ,olibanum #c oz4 ,orris root #c oz4 ,c9namon #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( pat*\ly #ae gra9s4 ,b4 ,,p\dre ,,de ,,la ,,re9e4 ,b5zo9 #g oz4 ,c$> wood #a lb4 ,c9namon #ad oz4 ,lav5d] #aj oz4 ,rose leaves #aj oz4 ,pat*\ly h]b #c oz4 ,vetiv] root #c oz4 ,civet #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( b]gamot oz4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #aej gra9s4 ,c4 ,,p\dre ,,royale4 ,c9namon lb4 ,cloves lb4 ,orris root #ab oz4 ,/orax #ab oz4 ,lav5d] #a lb4 ,oil ( clove oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot oz4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,,app5dix4 ,,"s ,,specialties4 ,besides ! prep>ations enum]at$ 9 ! prec$+ pages1 we f9d 9 p]fum]y "s products :i* are 9 favor on acc\nt ( _! fragrance & are suitable = sc5t+ ladies' writ+-desks1 sew+-baskets1 boxes1 & simil> objects4 ,!y f9d _! mo/ appropriate use 9 places :]e an aromatic odor is desir$1 :ile !re is no room = keep+ ! sub/ances !mselves4 ,^! mu/ !re=e be put into a small compass1 & ! aromatics *os5 %\ld be di/+ui%$ by great int5sity & p]man5ce ( odor4 ,we subjo9 a few =mulas = ! manufacture ( su* specialties1 & add ! rem>k t besides ! aromatics !re giv5 o!r sub/ances may be us$ 9 _! prep>ation2 b t ! pres5ce ( b5zo91 musk1 or civet1 ev5 9 small am\nt1 is always necess>y1 s9ce ^! sub/ances1 z above /at$1 n only possess an int5se & p]man5t odor1 b h ! valuable prop]ty ( imp>t+ la/+ qualities to m volatile odors4 ,x is a good plan1 too1 to keep on h& two k9ds ( ^! specialties--"o conta9+ musk1 ! o!r none--= ! reason t ! musk odor is z disagreeable to "s p]sons z x is pleasant to o!rs4 ,,spani% ,,sk9 7,,peau ,d',,espagne1 ,,spanis* ,,l$]74 ,! article sold "u ?is "n resembles 9 "s respects sa*ets or sc5t bags & is made z foll[s4 ,take a piece ( wa%-lea!r 7*amois71 trim x to a squ>e %ape1 & leave x = ?ree or f\r days 9 ! foll[+ mixture3 ,b5zo9 lb4 ,oil ( b]gamot oz4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,oil ( lemon grass oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] oz4 ,oil ( nutmeg #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #a oz4 ,oil ( rose #a oz4 ,oil ( santal #a oz4 ,t9cture ( tonka oz4 ,oil ( c9namon #aej gra9s4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,at ! end ( ! "t nam$ remove ! lea!r f ! liquid1 let x dra91 spread x on a glass plate1 & :5 dry coat x on ! r\gh side1 by means ( a bru%1 ) a pa/e prep>$ 9 a mort> f ! foll[+ +r$i5ts3 ,b5zoic acid1 sublim$ #aej gra9s4 ,musk #ae gra9s4 ,civet #ae gra9s4 ,gum acacia #a oz4 ,glyc]9 oz4 ,wat] #a oz4 ,! lea!r is !n fold$ 9 ! c5tre1 smoo!d ) a pap]-knife1 put "u a weight1 & all[$ to dry4 ,! dri$ lea!r =ms ! s-call$ p]fume sk9 :i* reta9s its f9e odor = ye>s4 ,in/ead ( ! above alcoholic liquids any desir$ alcoholic p]fume may be us$2 especially suitable are ^? conta9+ oils ( lemon grass1 lav5d]1 & rose1 s9ce !y are n v volatile1 & :5 comb9$ ) musk & civet rema9 fragrant = a long "t4 ,a suffici5tly l>ge piece ( p]fume sk9 ins]t$ 9 a desk pad or plac$ among ! pap] w make ! latt] v fragrant4 ,spani% sk9 is *iefly us$ = ?is purpose1 z well z = "w1 glove1 & h&k]*ief boxes1 etc4 ,x is g5]ally inclos$ 9 a heavy silk cov]4 ,if lea!r be ?\ght too exp5sive1 f\r to six lay]s ( blott+-pap] may be p]fum$ 9 ! same way & prop]ly inclos$4 ,?9 lay]s ( cotton wadd+ betwe5 pap] c also be ?us p]fum$ & us$ = fill+ p9 cu%ions1 etc4 ,,spani% ,,pa/e4 ,mix ! foll[+ sub/ances intimately 9 a porcela9 mort>1 & add wat] drop by drop until a d\ghy mass results4 ,amb]gris oz4 ,b5zo9 #a oz4 ,musk oz4 ,vanilla oz4 ,orris root oz4 ,c9namon oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( rose oz4 ,gum acacia #a oz4 ,glyc]9 #a oz4 ,?is pa/e1 divid$ into pieces ab\t ! size ( a hazelnut1 is us$ = fill+ ! s-call$ cassolettes or sc5t boxes :i* are c>ri$ 9 ! pocket1 etc41 l smell+ bottles4 ,ow+ to its pa/y consi/5ce ?is prep>ation c be us$ = p]fum+ jewelry 7small quantities are ins]t$ )9 ! diamond sett+s71 f9e lea!r goods1 belts1 & o!r articles4 ,x is unnecess>y to l5g!n ! li/2 e practical p]fum] w "k :at objects ne$ p]fum+4 ,,*apt] ,,xix4 ,,hygi5ic ,,& ,,cosmetic ,,p]fum]y4 ,p]fum]y is n m]ely call$ ^u to act 9 an /hetic direction & gladd5 ! s5ses2 x has ano!r & m important aim1 t is1 to aid 9 "s respects ! practice ( m$ic9e4 ,x is n necess>y to po9t out t 9 ?is s5se1 too1 x acts 9 an /hetic way2 = heal? & beauty are "o & insep>able4 ,! field relegat$ to p]fum]y ) ref]5ce to hygi5e is ext5sive1 compris+ ! c>e ( ! sk91 ! hair1 & ! m\?4 ,b we also f9d 9 comm]cial p]fum]y articles :i* possess no m$ic9al effect & s]ve m]ely = beautify+ "s p>ts ( ! body1 = in/ance1 pa9ts & hair dyes4 ,z x is n possible to sep>ate p]fumes ) hygi5ic effects f cosmetics1 we %all describe ! latt] 9 connection ) ! =m]4 ,to repeat1 hygi5ic p]fum]y has to deal ) su* sub/ances z h really a favorable effect on heal?4 ,no "o w d5y t soap takes ! fir/ place among !m4 ,soap promotes cleanl9ess1 & cleanl9ess 9 itself is ess5tial to heal?4 ,b x w\ld exce$ ! scope ( ?is "w 7 we to treat 9 detail ( ! manufacture ( soap & its employm5t 9 ! toilet2 we mu/ conf9e ourselves to "s specialties exclusively made by p]fum]s & into ! composition ( :i* soap ent]s4 ,we d s ! m readily s9ce p]fum]s are b r>ely 9 a position to make soap1 & 9 mo/ cases f9d x m advantage\s to buy ! raw mat]ial1 t is1 ord9>y good soap1 f ! manufactur] & to p]fume x4 ,next to soap 9 hygi5ic p]fum]y /& ! s-call$ emulsions & creams 7crmes7 :i* are excell5t prep>ations = ! sk9 & p]ta9 to ! doma9 ( ! p]fum]4 ,! human sk9 consi/s ( ?ree di/9ct p>ts3 ! deepe/ lay]1 ! subcutane\s cellul> tissue :i* gradually *anges into true sk92 ! corium or true sk9 7! ?icke/ lay]72 & ! sup]ficial sc>f sk9 or epid]mis :i* is v ?9 & consi/s l>gely ( dead & dy+ cells2 ^! are cont9ually %$ & /eadily reproduc$ f ! corium4 ,! sk9 conta9s v>i\s depressions1 namely1 ! sudorip>\s gl&s :i* excrete sweat2 ! sebace\s gl&s :i* s]ve ! purpose ( cov]+ ! sk9 ) fat & !reby keep x s(t1 glossy1 & supple2 & la/ly ! hair follicles :i* conta9 ! hairs1 an app5dage to ! sk94 ,! ma9 object ( hygi5ic p]fum]y ) ref]5ce to ! sk9 is to keep ^! gl&ul> organs 9 heal? & activity2 x effects ?is by v>i\s rem$ies :i*1 besides promot+ ! g5]al heal?1 improve ! appe>ance ( ! sk94 ,z a special gr\p ( prep>ations is int5d$ exclusively = ! c>e ( ! sk91 s ano!r class is devot$ to ! pres]vation ( ! hair1 & /ill ano!r to ! c>e ( ! m\? & its greate/ ornam5t1 ! tee?4 ,accord+ly ! prep>ations belong+ "u ?is head w be divid$ into ?ree gr\ps--^? = ! sk91 ! hair1 & ! m\?4 ,,*apt] ,,xx4 ,,prep>ations ,,= ,,! ,,c>e ,,( ,,! ,,sk94 ,,glyc]94 ,pure glyc]9 is a sub/ance t has a p[]ful beautify+ effect on ! sk91 by r5d]+ x :ite1 supple1 s(t1 & glossy2 no o!r rem$y w cle> a sun-burnt sk9 9 s %ort a "t z glyc]94 ,an excell5t wa% may be made by ! p]fum] by mix+ equal p>ts ( ?ick1 colorless glyc]9 & orange-fl[] wat] 7or "s o!r aromatic wat] ) f9e odor71 possibly giv+ x a rose color by ! addition ( a v small am\nt ( fu*s9e4 ,conc5trat$ glyc]9 mu/ n be us$ z a wa%1 because x ab/racts wat] f ! sk9 & !reby produces a s5sation ( heat or burn+4 ,besides common soap1 ! s-call$ emulsions1 meals1 pa/es1 vegetable milks & creams are ! be/ prep>ations = ! c>e ( ! sk92 9 p]fum]y !y are ev5 pref]able to soap 9 "s respects because !y conta9 n only sub/ances :i* h a cleans+ effect l any soap1 sc5t$ or n1 b at ! same "t r5d] ! sk9 cle>]1 m transp>5t1 & m supple4 ,,emulsions4 ,_m p]fum]s make a def9ite di/9ction betwe5 two gr\ps ( emulsions :i* !y call respectively 8emulsions0 & 8true emulsions40 ,by 8emulsions0 !y mean masses :i* h ! prop]ty ( *ang+ on contact ) wat] into a milky fluid or becom+ emulsifi$2 ! t]m 8true emulsions0 is appli$ to su* prep>ations z already conta9 a suffici5t am\nt ( wat] & !re=e h a milky appe>ance4 ,h5ce ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! two prep>ations lies 9 ! less] or great] quantity ( wat]1 & is s v>iable t we pref] to describe !m "u "o head4 ,! cause ( ! milky appe>ance ( ! emulsions on com+ 9 contact ) wat] is t !y conta91 besides fat1 sub/ances :i* possess ! prop]ty ( keep+ ! fat susp5d$ 9 =m ( exce$+ly m9ute droplets :i* make ! entire fluid look l milk4 ,z a glance ?r\gh ! microscope %[s1 ! milk ( animals consi/s ( a cle> fluid 9 :i* ! divid$ fat droplets 7butt]7 float2 ^! by _! refractive p[] make ! milk appe> :ite4 ,:ile soaps always conta9 a c]ta9 quantity ( free alkali1 a sub/ance hav+ active cau/ic prop]ties1 emulsions include v little if any alkali1 &1 s9ce !y possess ! same cleans+ p[] z soap )\t its disadvantages ) ref]5ce to ! sk91 _! /eady use produces a w>m y\?ful complexion1 z well z smoo?ness & delicacy ( ! sk94 ,glyc]9 is ( special importance 9 ! composition ( emulsions4 ,besides ! above-m5tion$ prop]ty ( ?is sub/ance ( keep+ ! sk9 s(t & supple1 x acts z a true cosmetic by its solv5t p[] ( color+ matt]s3 a sk9 deeply br[n$ by exposure to ! sun is mo/ rapidly :it5$ by ! use ( glyc]9 alone4 ,moreov]1 glyc]9 prev5ts ! decomposition ( ! prep>ations & keeps !m un*ang$ = a long "t4 ,?is quality has a value :i* %\ld n be und]e/imat$2 = all emulsions are v apt to decompose & become rancid ow+ to ! f9ely divid$ fat !y conta94 ,"u ord9>y conditions1 only complete protection aga9/ light & air c ret>d rancidity1 :i* is accompani$ by a disagreeable odor n to be mask$ by any p]fume2 an addition ( glyc]91 :i* we incorporate 9 all emulsions1 makes !m m p]man5t ow+ to ! antiseptic prop]ty ( ?is sub/ance4 ,rec5t ye>s1 h[ev]1 h made u acqua9t$ ) a sub/ance :i* 9 v m9ute quantities--"o-half ( "o p] c5t ( ! mass to be pres]v$ by x--prev5ts decomposition & rancidity ( fats4 ,?is is salicylic acid1 a *emical product :i*1 be+ h>mless1 ta/eless1 & odorless1 %\ld be employ$ :]ev] we wi% to gu>d aga9/ de/ructive influ5ces ex]t$ by air1 f]m5tation1 etc4 ,:ile =m]ly all emulsions 7 made only 9 small am\nts1 j suffici5t = sev]al weeks' use1 salicylic acid enables u to manufacture l>g] quantities at once & to keep !m )\t mu* fe> ( _! spoil+4 ,h[ev]1 ev5 ! pres5ce ( salicylic acid is no gu>anty aga9/ det]ioration1 if o!r precautions are neglect$4 ,! products %\ld be kept 9 well-/opp]$ bottles or vessels1 9 a cool & d>k place4 ,all sub/ances _c be pres]v$ by salicylic acid1 & !re are c]ta9 f]m5ts or fungi :i* resi/ ! action ( salicylic acid4 ,if *lor(orm is n objectionable 9 any ( ^! prep>ations--& only s mu* is necess>y z c be held 9 actual solution by ! liquid1 on an av]age ?ree drops to ! ounce--?is pres]vative is pref]able to salicylic acid4 ,! only fats us$ 9 ! prep>ation ( emulsions are express$ oil ( almonds1 olive oil1 & l>d4 ,almond oil is be/ made by imm$iate pressure ( ! bruis$ fruits1 s9ce fre% almond meal likewise f9ds application 9 p]fum]y2 olive oil & l>d mu/ be v c>efully purifi$4 ,?is is done by heat+ !m = "o h\r ) ab\t t5 times ! quantity ( wat] conta9+ soap 7"o p] c5t ( ! quantity ( fat to be purifi$74 ,!y are !n treat$ five or six times ) pure w>m wat] until ! latt] escapes q neutral4 ,if ! wat] turns r$ litmus pap] blue1 x w\ld indicate ! pres5ce ( free alkali 7soap72 if x turns blue litmus pap] r$1 x w\ld prove ! pres5ce ( free fatty acids 7rancid fat74 ,ei!r "o ( ^! sub/ances1 especially ! latt]1 w\ld injure ! quality ( ! product4 ,! fat %\ld be absolutely neutral & h no influ5ce on ei!r k9d ( litmus pap]2 !n its quality may be pron\nc$ p]fect4 ,,*apt] ,,xxi4 ,,=mulas ,,= ,,! ,,prep>ation ,,( ,,emulsions1 ,,meals1 ,,pa/es1 ,,vegetable ,,milk1 ,,& ,,cold-,,creams4 ,a4 ,emulsions4 ,,am&9e4 ,almond ,cream4--,melt t5 p\nds ( purifi$ l>d 9 an enamell$ iron pot or a porcela9 vessel1 & :ile increas+ ! temp]ature add little by little five p\nds ( pota% lye ( #be /r5g?1 /irr+ all ! "t ) a broad spatula4 ,:5 fat & lye h become a uni=m mass1 #b to #c ounces ( alcohol is gradually add$1 :]eby ! mixture acquires a transluc5t1 cry/all9e appe>ance4 ,be=e ! alcohol is add$ ?ree-f\r?s to "o ounce ( oil ( bitt] almond is dissolv$ 9 x4 ,! soapy mass ?us obta9$ is call$ 8almond cream0 7crme d'am&es7 & may be us$ alone = wa%+4 ,= mak+ ,am&9e take (-- ,express$ oil ( almonds #aj lb4 ,almond cream #c oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( mace #aej gra9s4 ,wat] #a oz4 ,sug> #c oz4 ,9 ! manufacture ! foll[+ rules %\ld be obs]v$4 ,effect ! mixture 9 a cool room1 ! cell> 9 summ]1 a fireless room 9 w9t]4 ,mix ! +r$i5ts 9 a %all[1 smoo? vessel1 be/ a l>ge porcela9 di%1 us+ a v broad1 flat /irr] ) sev]al holes4 ,! sug> is fir/ dissolv$ 9 ! wat] & intimately mix$ ) ! almond cream4 ,! ess5tial oils are dissolv$ 9 ! almond oil conta9$ 9 a vessel provid$ ) a /op-cock4 ,! oil is fir/ all[$ to run into ! di% 9 a mod]ate /ream "u cont9ual /irr+4 ,! mass soon gr[s m viscid1 & t[>d ! end ( ! op]ation ! fl[ ( oil mu/ be c>efully re/rict$ s t ! quantity admitt$ c be at once completely mix$ ) ! cont5ts ( ! di%4 ,well-made am&9e mu/ be r consi/5t & :ite1 & %\ld n be transluc5t4 ,if transluc5cy or an oily appe>ance is obs]v$ dur+ ! mixture1 ! fl[ ( oil mu/ be at once *eck$ or en\gh almond cream mu/ be add$ to re/ore ! :ite appe>ance1 "u active /irr+4 ,z am&9e is v liable to decompose1 x mu/ be imm$iately fill$ into ! vessels 9 :i* x is to be kept1 & ! latt]1 clos$ air-tight1 %\ld be pres]v$ 9 a cool place4 ,by add+ ounce ( salicylic acid1 am&9e may be made q p]man5t s t x c be kept un*ang$ ev5 9 a w>m place4 ,we h describ$ ! prep>ation ( am&9e at great] l5g? because its manufacture requires "s te*nical skill & because ! prep>ation ( all o!r cold-creams corresponds 9 g5]al ) t ( am&9e4 ,,glyc]9 ,,emulsions4 ,a4 ,,glyc]9 ,,cream4 ,glyc]9 lb4 ,almond oil #ad oz4 ,rose wat] #ab oz4 ,sp]maceti #c oz4 ,wax #dhj gra9s4 ,oil ( rose #fj gra9s4 ,melt ! wax & sp]maceti by g5tle heat1 !n add ! almond oil1 next ! glyc]9 mix$ ) ! rose wat]1 & la/ly ! oil ( rose :i* may also be replac$ by "s o!r fragrant oil or mixture4 ,if ! prep>ation is to be us$ 9 summ]1 x is advisable to increase ! wax by "o-half1 ?us giv+ ! mass great] consi/5ce4 ,b4 ,,glyc]9 ,,jelly4 ,glyc]9 #b lb4 ,almond oil #f lb4 ,soap #e oz4 ,oil ( orange peel #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( ?yme oz4 ,mix ! soap ) ! glyc]91 gradually add ! oil 7z = am&9e71 & f9ally ! aromatics4 ,,jasm9e ,,emulsion4 ,huile antique de jasm9 #b lb4 ,almond cream #e oz4 ,express$ oil ( almond #d lb4 ,wat] #e oz4 ,sug> #b oz4 ,mix 9 ! same ord] z giv5 "u ,am&9e4 ,,tub]ose ,,emulsion4 ,huile antique des tubroses #a to #b lb4 ,almond cream #e oz4 ,express$ oil ( almond #d lb4 ,wat] #e oz4 ,sug> #b oz4 ,,violet ,,emulsion4 ,huile antique des violettes #b to #c lb4 ,almond cream #e oz4 ,express$ oil ( almond #d lb4 ,wat] #e oz4 ,sug> #b oz4 ,9 place ( ! huiles antiques nam$ 7i4e41 f9e oils saturat$ ) ! odors ( ! correspond+ fl[]s7 any o!r huile antique may be us$ & ! cream !n call$ by ! "n ( ! fl[] ^: odor x possesses4 ,su* creams ) g5u9e huiles antiques are among ! f9e/ prep>ations kn[n 9 p]fum]y & ( c\rse are high-pric$1 ow+ to ! co/ ( ! huiles antiques4 ,,oliv9e4 ,gum acacia lb4 ,yolk ( egg #aj yolks4 ,olive oil #d lb4 ,soap #g oz4 ,wat] #h oz4 ,sug> #e oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #b oz4 ,oil ( lemon #b oz4 ,oil ( clove #a oz4 ,oil ( orange peel oz4 ,oil ( ?yme #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( c9namon #ge gra9s4 ,! gum1 sug>1 wat]1 & yolk ( eggs are fir/ intimately mix$ & gradually add$ to ! olive oil conta9+ ! ess5tial oils4 ,b4 ,meals & ,pa/es4 ,! s-call$ meals 7f>9es7 & pa/es 7ptes7 really consi/ ( ! fl\r ( fatty vegetable sub/ances :i* possess ! prop]ty ( =m+ an emulsion ) wat] & are frequ5tly us$ 9 wa%es4 ,z !y are free f alkali1 !y are ! mo/ delicate prep>ations ( ! k9d & are especially suitable = wa%+ ! face or s5sitive h&s4 ,,simple ,,almond ,,pa/e 7,p,,te ,d',,am&es ,,simple74 ,bitt] almonds #f lb4 ,alcohol #b qts4 ,rose wat] #d qts4 ,oil ( b]gamot #aj oz4 ,oil ( lemon #c oz4 ,put ! bitt] almonds 9 a sieve1 dip !m = a few seconds 9 boil+ wat]1 :5 !y c be easily depriv$ ( _! br[n sk92 c>efully bruise !m 9 a mort>1 & place !m 9 a glaz$ pot set 9 ano!r kept full ) boil+ wat]2 p\r ov] !m two qu>ts ( ! rose wat] heat$ to ne> ! boil+-po9t4 ,keep up ! heat "u cont9ual /irr+ until ! almond meal & rose wat] =m a uni=m mass free f granules2 9 o!r words1 until ! meal is *ang$ into pa/e4 ,! pot is n[ all[$ to cool some:at1 :5 ! re/ ( ! rose wat] & ! oils dissolv$ 9 alcohol are add$4 ,almond pa/e %\ld h a uni=m1 butt]-l consi/5ce if ! fir/ "p ( ! op]ation has be5 c>efully p]=m$4 ,,almond ,,& ,,honey ,,pa/e 7,p,,te ,d',,am&es ,,au ,,miel74 ,bitt] almonds #b lb4 ,yolk ( egg #cj yolks4 ,honey #d lb4 ,express$ oil ( almond #d lb4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,oil ( clove oz4 ,decorticate & bruise ! bitt] almonds & add !m ) ! ess5tial oils to ! mix$ yolks1 honey1 & almond oil4 ,,almond ,,meal 7,,f>9e ,d',,am&es74 ,almond meal #d lb4 ,orris root1 p[d]$ #e oz4 ,oil ( lemon #a oz4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon grass #ge gra9s4 ,almond meal "h means ! bran left aft] express+ ! oil f sweet almonds4 ,fir/ mix ! p[d]$ orris root intimately ) ! ess5tial oils & triturate ! mass ) ! almond bran4 ,o!r ess5tial oils may also be us$ = p]fum+ ! mass4 ,,pi/a*io ,,meal 7,,f>9e ,,de ,,pi/a*es74 ,pi/a*io nuts #d lb4 ,orris root1 p[d]$ #d lb4 ,oil ( lemon #a oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( orange peel #a oz4 ,! pi/a*io nuts are blan*$ 9 ! same mann] z almonds 7see "u ,simple ,almond ,pa/e71 & !n r$uc$ to a meal4 ,c4 ,vegetable ,milk4 ,! sev]al v>ieties ( vegetable milk are m]ely emulsions conta9+ suffici5t wat] to give !m a milky appe>ance4 ,!y are us$ z su* = wa%es & are 9 great favor4 ,ow+ to ! l>g] am\nt ( wat] !y conta91 !y are m liable to decompose ?an ! prep>ations describ$ above1 s9ce ! fats pres5t 9 !m easily become rancid on acc\nt ( _! f9e division 9 ! milk4 ,9 ord] to r5d] ^! prep>ations m /able1 !y receive an addition ( ab\t five to t5 p] c5t ( _! weight ( pure glyc]9 :i* enhances _! cosmetic effect4 ,! addition ( ab\t "o-half ( "o p] c5t ( salicylic acid is likewise to be recomm5d$1 z x makes !m m /able4 ,9 ! foll[+ pages we %all describe only ! mo/ important ( ^! prep>ations usually made by ! p]fum]4 ,9 ?is connection we may /ate t by slightly modify+ ! sub/ances us$ to p]fume !m1 new v>ieties ( vegetable milk c be easily prep>$4 ,e vegetable milk consi/s 9 ! ma9 ( a base ( soap1 wax1 & sp]maceti1 & an aromatic wat] :i* gives ! "n to ! prep>ation4 ,?is composition is int5d$ to keep susp5d$ ! fatty vegetable sub/ances 7almond or pi/a*io meal1 etc471 ?us produc+ a milky appe>ance4 ,vegetable milks are made z foll[s4 ,melt ! soap ) ! wax & sp]maceti at a g5tle heat4 ,prep>e a milk f ! vegetable sub/ance & ! aromatic wat] 7e4g41 unexpress$ almonds & rose wat]7 by c>eful trituration1 /ra9 x ?r\gh f9e silk gauze into ! vessel conta9+ ! melt$ mixture ( soap1 wax1 & sp]maceti1 /ir ?or\ghly1 let x cool1 & add ! alcohol hold+ 9 solution ! ess5tial oils1 ! glyc]9 7& ! salicylic acid71 "u cont9ual /irr+4 ,! alcohol mu/ be add$ 9 a v ?9 /ream1 o!rwise a portion ( ! mass w curdle4 ,! co>s] p>ticles conta9$ 9 ! milk mu/ be all[$ to settle by leav+ ! prep>ation at re/ = tw5ty-f\r h\rs1 :5 ! milk c be c>efully decant$ f ! s$im5t & fill$ into bottles = sale4 ,,lilac ,,milk 7,,lait ,,de ,,lilas74 ,soap #b oz4 ,wax #b oz4 ,sp]maceti #b oz4 ,sweet almonds #a lb4 ,lilac-fl[] wat] #d p9ts4 ,huile antique de lilas #b oz4 ,alcohol 7#hj-he ,tralles7 #b lb4 ,9 place ( lilac-fl[] wat] & huile antique de lilas1 lilac9 7t]p9eol7 may be us$1 a suffici5t quantity 7ab\t #a oz47 be+ dissolv$ 9 ! alcohol4 ,b ! lilac9 mu/ be pure & ( clean odor4 ,,virg9al ,,milk 7,,lait ,,virg9al74 ,?is prep>ation diff]s f all o!r milks sold 9 p]fum]y 9 t x consi/s ( "s aromatic wat] ) t9cture ( b5zo9 & tolu4 ,9 mak+ x1 p\r ! aromatic wat] 9 a v ?9 /ream into ! t9cture "u vigor\s /irr+4 ,if ! wat] fl[s 9 too rapidly1 ! res9s pres5t 9 ! t9cture sep>ate 9 lumps2 b if sl[ly p\r$ 91 ! res9s =m m9ute sph]es :i* rema9 susp5d$4 ,! prep>ation is nam$ aft] ! aromatic wat] x conta9s3 ,lait virg9al de la rose1 fleurs d'oranges1 etc4 ,its =mula is3 ,t9cture ( b5zo9 #b oz4 ,t9cture ( tolu #b oz4 ,aromatic wat] #d qts4 ,,cucumb] ,,milk 7,,lait ,,de ,,concombres74 ,soap #a oz4 ,olive oil #a oz4 ,wax #a oz4 ,sp]maceti #a oz4 ,sweet almonds #a lb4 ,cucumb] juice 7fre%ly express$7 #d p9ts4 ,extract ( cucumb] #a p9t4 ,alcohol #b lb4 ,,d&elion ,,milk4 ,soap #b oz4 ,olive oil #b oz4 ,wax #b oz4 ,sweet almonds #a lb4 ,extract ( tub]ose #a lb4 ,rose wat] #e p9ts4 ,d&elion juice #e oz4 ,d&elion juice is ! bitt] milk sap ( ! root ( ! common d&elion 7,leontodon t>axacum72 x %\ld be express$ imm$iately be=e use4 ,! rose wat] may be replac$ by "s o!r aromatic wat] or ev5 ord9>y wat]2 b ! latt] %\ld be di/ill$1 o!rwise ! lime x conta9s w\ld =m an insoluble comb9ation ) ! soap4 ,,bitt]-,,almond ,,milk 7,,lait ,d',,am&es ,,am,,res74 ,bitt] almonds #b oz4 ,soap #b oz4 ,express$ oil ( almond #b oz4 ,wax #b oz4 ,sp]maceti #b oz4 ,rose wat] #d qts4 ,alcohol #c p9ts4 ,oil ( bitt] almond oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,,rose ,,milk 7,,lait ,,de ,,roses74 ,olive oil #b oz4 ,soap #b oz4 ,wax #b oz4 ,sp]maceti #b oz4 ,sweet almonds #d lb4 ,oil ( rose #aej gra9s4 ,rose wat] #d qts4 ,alcohol #a p9t4 ,,pi/a*io ,,milk 7,,lait ,,de ,,pi/a*es74 ,soap4 #b oz4 ,olive oil #b oz4 ,wax #b oz4 ,sp]maceti #b oz4 ,pi/a*io nuts #ad oz4 ,oil ( n]oli oz4 ,orange-fl[] wat] #f qts4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,d4 ,cold-,creams & ,lip ,salves4 ,9 ! ma9 !y resemble 9 _! composition ! emulsions & vegetable milks1 b diff] by _! ?ick consi/5ce :i* r5d]s !m suitable = be+ rubb$ into ! sk94 ,cold-creams are really salves p]fum$ ) "o ( ! well-kn[n odors :i* give !m _! names4 ,fat =ms ! basis ( ^! mixtures & gives !m _! hygi5ic effect1 z x imp>ts fulness & s(tness to ! sk94 ,e well-made cold-cream %\ld h ! consi/5ce ( rec5tly congeal$ wax & %\ld yield to ! pressure ( ! f+] l pomatum4 ,x %\ld be not$ t ! addition ( v ?ick glyc]9 w increase ! effect ( ! cold-cream & improve its f9e transp>5t appe>ance2 b ?is sub/ance mu/ be add$ ) great c>e1 o!rwise ! mass w n possess ! requir$ firmness4 ,9 mak+ cold-cream1 a mixture ( wax1 sp]maceti1 & express$ almond oil mu/ be comb9$ ) an aromatic wat] & an ess5tial oil4 ,! fir/ "p ( ! op]ation is easy2 ! wax & sp]maceti are melt$ at ! l[e/ possible temp]ature1 & ! almond oil is add$ "u cont9ual /irr+4 ,x is m difficult to unite ! o!r sub/ances ) ?is base2 ! aromatic wat] is admitt$ 9 a ?9 /ream "u vigor\s /irr+ 7or :ipp+1 or *urn+71 & :5 x =ms a uni=m mass ) ! cont5ts ( ! mort> ! rema9+ sub/ances are /irr$ 9 & ! /ill fluid mass is p\r$ into ! vessels int5d$ = x1 & all[$ to congeal4 ,cold-creams are usually sold 9 ta/eful porcela9 j>s or vases4 ,to gu>d aga9/ rancidity ( ! mass1 ! vessels are clos$ ei!r ) gr\nd /opp]s or ) corks cov]$ ) t9 foil4 ,! ess5tial oils %\ld be add$ la/1 :5 ! mass has cool$ to ! congeal+-po9t2 if add$ be=e1 too mu* ( !m is lo/ by evaporation4 ,we give bel[ sev]al approv$ =mulas = ! prep>ation ( "s favorite cold-creams1 & repeat t new v>ieties c be produc$ by introduc+ any desir$ odor into ! composition4 ,,glyc]9 ,,cold-,,cream ,a4 ,express$ oil ( almond #b lb4 ,wax #b oz4 ,sp]maceti #b oz4 ,glyc]9 #g oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot oz4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,oil ( g]anium oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( c9namon #aej gra9s4 ,rose wat] #a lb4 ,,glyc]9 ,,cold-,,cream ,b4 ,express$ oil ( almond #b lb4 ,wax #d oz4 ,sp]maceti #d oz4 ,glyc]9 lb4 ,oil ( rose #aej gra9s4 ,civet #cj gra9s4 ,,camphor ,,ice 7,,camphor ,,cold-,,cream74 ,wax #b oz4 ,sp]maceti #b oz4 ,express$ oil ( almond #b lb4 ,camphor #d oz4 ,oil ( rosem>y #ij gra9s4 ,oil ( pepp]m9t #de gra9s4 ,rose wat] #b lb4 ,,camphor ,,ice 7,p,,te ,,camphorique74 ,l>d #b lb4 ,wax lb4 ,camphor lb4 ,oil ( lav5d] oz4 ,oil ( rosem>y oz4 ,?is mixture1 :i* is r firm1 is frequ5tly p\r$ into %all[ porcela9 boxes2 sometimes x is color$ r$ ) alkanet root4 ,,camphor ,,balls 7,,savonettes ,,camphoriques74 ,express$ oil ( almond #g oz4 ,purifi$ tall[ #b lb4 ,wax #g oz4 ,sp]maceti #g oz4 ,camphor #g oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] oz4 ,oil ( rosem>y oz4 ,oil ( c9namon #ge gra9s4 ,savonette is g5]ally und]/ood to mean a soap ca/ 9 sph]ical m\lds2 ?is prep>ation is1 z a rule1 likewise sold 9 ?is =m4 ,,div9e ,,pomade ,a4 ,express$ oil ( almond #c lb4 ,sp]maceti #a lb4 ,l>d #b lb4 ,b5zo9 #a lb4 ,vanilla #g oz4 ,civet oz4 ,! aromatic sub/ances1 hav+ be5 comm9ut$1 are ?or\ghly triturat$ ) ! o!r +r$i5ts1 & ! mass is kept = tw5ty-f\r h\rs at a temp]ature ( #ej to #fj ,c4 7#aab-adj ,f471 :5 x is c>efully decant$ f ! s$im5t1 :i* is treat$ aga9 ) ano!r mass ( ! same sub/ances = ?irty-six to =ty-eight h\rs4 ,,div9e ,,pomade ,b4 ,beef m>r[ #b lb4 ,b5zo9 #a oz4 ,nutmegs #a oz4 ,cloves #a oz4 ,/orax #a oz4 ,orris root #a oz4 ,civet #ge gra9s4 ,c9namon #a oz4 ,orange-fl[] wat] #b lb4 ,! solid sub/ances are mac]at$ = =ty-eight h\rs ) ! w>m m>r[1 ! liquid p]fum$ m>r[ is !n /ra9$ (f & mix$ ) ! orange-fl[] wat]4 ,,cologne ,,cold-,,cream 7,,cr,,me ,,de ,,cologne74 ,express$ oil ( almond #b lb4 ,wax #b oz4 ,sp]maceti #b oz4 ,mecca balsam #g oz4 ,tolu balsam #c oz4 ,rose wat] #ad oz4 ,mecca balsam has be5 a r>e article 9 comm]ce = _m ye>s4 ,t :i* is usually sold z su* is m or less adult]at$ or an imitation4 ,! g5u9e 0 d]iv$ f ,balsamod5dron ,opobalsamum ,kun?4 ,,cucumb] ,,cold-,,cream ,a4 ,express$ oil ( almond #b lb4 ,wax #b oz4 ,sp]maceti #b oz4 ,extract ( cucumb] #e oz4 ,cucumb] juice1 fre% #b lb4 ,! cucumb] juice is c>efully heat$ to #fj or #fe ,c4 7#adj-adi;,f471 rapidly filt]$ f ! curds1 & at once add$ to ! re/ ( ! mass4 ,,cucumb] ,,cold-,,cream ,b4 ,l>d #f lb4 ,sp]maceti #b lb4 ,b5zo9 #g oz4 ,extract ( cucumb] #b lb4 ,! b5zo9 is fir/ mac]at$ ) ! w>m$ fat = tw5ty-f\r h\rs1 & ?is aromatic fat is treat$ 9 ! usual mann]4 ,,lip ,,salve ,a 7,,pomade ,,blan*e ,,p\r ,,les ,l,,vres74 ,express$ oil ( almond #b lb4 ,wax #d oz4 ,sp]maceti #d oz4 ,oil ( bitt] almond oz4 ,oil ( lemon grass #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( rose #ge gra9s4 ,,r$ ,,lip ,,salve ,b 7,,pomade ,,la ,,rose ,,p\r ,,les ,l,,vres74 ,express$ oil ( almond #b lb4 ,wax #d oz4 ,sp]maceti #d oz4 ,oil ( g]anium #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( santal #ij gra9s4 ,alkanet root #d oz4 ,! beautiful r$ color :i* di/+ui%es ?is prep>ation is produc$ ) alkanet root2 ! mass1 be=e ! ess5tial oils are add$1 be+ mac]at$ = f six to eight h\rs1 "u frequ5t /irr+1 ) ! comm9ut$ root1 & !n decant$ f ! s$im5t4 ,,*]ry ,,salve ,c 7,,pomade ,,c]ise74 ,express$ oil ( almond #b lb4 ,wax #d oz4 ,sp]maceti #d oz4 ,oil ( bitt] almond oz4 ,oil ( sweet bay #aej gra9s4 ,alkanet root #d oz4 ,! proc$ure is ! same z = pomade la rose4 ,,almond ,,cold-,,cream4 ,express$ oil ( almond #b lb4 ,wax #d oz4 ,sp]maceti #d oz4 ,rose wat] #b lb4 ,oil ( bitt] almond oz4 ,civet #cj gra9s4 ,,almond ,,balls 7,,savonettes ,d',,am&es74 ,tall[ #b lb4 ,wax #aj oz4 ,sp]maceti #g oz4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( c9namon #ge gra9s4 ,?is is usually =m$ into balls4 ,,rosebud ,,cold-,,cream4 ,almond oil #b lb4 ,wax #b oz4 ,sp]maceti #b oz4 ,rose wat] #b lb4 ,oil ( rose #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( g]anium #ge gra9s4 ,,violet ,,cold-,,cream 7,,cr,,me ,,de ,,violettes74 ,huile antique de violettes #b lb4 ,wax #b oz4 ,sp]maceti #b oz4 ,violet wat] #b lb4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #ge gra9s4 ,,app5dix4 ,,nail ,,p[d] 7,,p\dre ,,p\r ,,les ,,ongles2 ,,f+]nagel-,,pulv]74 ,! f+] nails1 be+ an app5dage to ! sk91 belong "u ! head ( ! ,c>e ( ! ,sk92 we !re=e give a =mula = prep>+ ! p[d] us$ = imp>t+ smoo?ness & gloss to ! nails4 ,= use1 "s ( ! p[d] is p\r$ on a piece ( s(t glove lea!r & ! nails are rubb$ until !y %9e4 ,oxide ( t9 #d lb4 ,c>m9e oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( lav5d] #aej gra9s4 ,! oxide ( t9 mu/ be an impalpable p[d] & is mix$ ) ! o!r sub/ances 9 a mort>4 ,,*apt] ,,xxii4 ,,! ,,prep>ations ,,us$ ,,= ,,! ,,c>e ,,( ,,! ,,hair 7,,pomades ,,& ,,hair ,,oils74 ,! hair1 ! beautiful ornam5t ( ! human body1 requires fat = its c>e & pres]vation1 = !re are b few p]sons ^: scalp is s vigor\s t ! hair c d]ive suffici5t n\ri%m5t f x to ma9ta9 its gloss & smoo?ness4 ,among ! anci5t ,greeks1 ,romans1 & ,g]mans v>i\s o9tm5ts 7 9 use = ! c>e ( ! hair4 ,9 ,rome !re 0 ev51 z we h /at$ 9 an e>li] "p ( ! book1 a special guild ( o9tm5t-mak]s or ungu5t>ii4 ,!y employ$ a process = mak+ _! o9tm5ts fragrant :i* resembles t ( mac]ation 9 pres5t use4 ,! s-call$ pomades 7f pomum1 apple7 7 prep>$ by /ick+ a f9e apple full ( spices & plac+ x = a long "t 9 liquid fat :i* absorb$ ! odor ( ! spices4 ,9 ! pres5t /ate ( *emical sci5ce1 ! basis ( e pomade or hair oil is =m$ by "s fat p]fum$ ) aromatic sub/ances & at times color$4 ,! fats g5]ally us$ are l>d1 beef m>r[1 tall[1 be>s' grease1 olive or almond oil2 "s ( ! firm] fats receive an addition ( a c]ta9 am\nt ( p>aff91 sp]maceti1 or wax1 9 ord] to give ! pomade great] consi/5ce4 ,z 9 ! manufacture ( all ! f9] articles1 x is ess5tial t :atev] fat is employ$ %\ld be p]fectly pure2 only fat :i* is absolutely neutral1 i4e41 free f acid1 c be us$1 & any sample ) b a trace ( rancidity 7conta9+ free fatty acids7 %\ld be reject$ on acc\nt ( ! p5etrat+ odor peculi> to sev]al ( ^! acids4 ,manufactur]s :o aim at ! production ( f9e goods sp>e nei!r tr\ble nor exp5se 9 ord] to obta9 p]fectly pure fats4 ,fats are purifi$ = ! purposes ( ! p]fum] 9 ! foll[+ mann]3 ,! fat is melt$ 9 a bright iron pot or enamell$ vessel ) ?ree times ! quantity ( wat] conta9+ 9 solution ab\t "o p] c5t 7( ! weight ( ! fat7 ( alum & "o p] c5t ( table salt4 ,fat & wat] are well /irr$ ) a broad flat ladle or "s me*anical arrangem5t )9 ! boil]4 ,aft] ! mass has rema9$ at re/ = "s "t1 ! curdl$ solid matt]s are skimm$ f ! surface4 ,! "t requir$ = ?is op]ation c be mu* %ort5$ by ! use ( a pump :i* raises ! fat & wat] f ! boil] & returns !m 9 a f9e spray4 ,:5 fats ) "s degree ( rancidity are to be made suitable = ! purposes ( ! p]fum]1 #j4e ( cau/ic soda lye is add$ to ! wat] in/ead ( ! alum4 ,aft] ?is treatm5t is complet$1 ! fat mu/ be wa%$ 9 ord] to free x f ! sub/ances ) :i* x 0 purifi$4 ,=m]ly ?is wa%+ 0 done 9 a mann] resembl+ ! gr9d+ ( oil colors4 ,! fat 0 plac$ on a level /one plate & knead$ ) a mull] ) flat base "u a cont9ual /ream ( wat] fl[+ f above1 until ! fat 0 clean4 ,?is exp5sive h& labor is n[ p]=m$ by ma*9es1 ! fat be+ treat$ ) wat] 9 v]tical mills4 ,no matt] h[ c>efully a fat 0 purifi$1 x may happ5 t ! pomades made f x1 if kept long 9 /ock1 may subsequ5tly become rancid--a circum/ance :i* may de/roy ! reputation ( a factory4 ,=tunately we "k two sub/ances :i* mat]ially c\nt]act ! t5d5cy ( fats to become rancid3 salicylic acid & b5zo94 ,ei!r ( ^! sub/ances is add$ to _m p]fum]y articles1 especially pomades1 9 ord] to prev5t rancidity2 an admixture ( f "o-"o-?\s&? to five-"o-?\s&?s p>ts ( solid salicylic acid suffices1 accord+ to our exp]im5ts1 = ! purpose2 ( b5zo9 we ne$ ab\t ?ree-f\r?s ( an ounce = e qu>t ( fat2 ! res9 is only p>tly soluble 9 fat1 b imp>ts to x its vanilla-l odor4 ,= ! f9e/ pomades sublim$ b5zoic acid is us$1 9 ! proportion ( ab\t #aej to #bdj gra9s to ! qu>t ( fat4 ,,*apt] ,,xxiii4 ,,=mulas ,,= ,,! ,,manufacture ,,( ,,pomades ,,& ,,hair ,,oils4 ,a4 ,pomades4 ,9 manufactur+ p]fum]y two gr\ps ( pomades are di/+ui%$--^? ) a h>d base1 & ^? ) a s(t base4 ,by base is meant ! fat :i* is ! vehicle ( ! odor 9 e pomade4 ,! consi/5ce ( ! sub/ance dep5ds ^u its melt+-po9t2 l>d & beef m>r[1 hav+ a l[ melt+-po9t1 furni% s(t pomades2 :ile beef & mutton tall[1 :i* (t5 receive an addition ( p>aff91 wax1 or sp]maceti 9 ord] to make !m firm]1 h a high] melt+-po9t & s]ve = h>d pomades4 ,fr5* p]fum]s put on ! m>ket "s v f9e pomades consi/+ ( ! fat :i* has s]v$ = ! absorption ( odors by mac]ation1 enfleurage1 etc41 & :i* has be5 treat$ ) alcohol = ! extraction ( ! odors 7s-call$ wa%$ pomades74 ,no matt] h[ long su* a fat is treat$ ) alcohol1 x t5aci\sly reta9s a portion ( ! odor to :i* ! great fragrance ( ^! pomades is due & :i* has giv5 !m _! reputation4 ,if ! pomades result+ f ! foll[+ =mulas %\ld turn out too s(t--a fact dep5d+ on ! climate ( ! place ( manufacture--!y may receive an addition ( a mixture ( equal p>ts ( p>aff91 wax1 & sp]maceti1 9 portions ( respectively five p] c5t at ea* addition1 until ! desir$ o9tm5t-l consi/5ce is atta9$4 ,,can?>idal ,,pomade4 ,beef m>r[ #d lb4 ,wax #g oz4 ,oil ( mace #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( rose #aej gra9s4 ,t9cture ( can?>ides oz4 ,t9cture ( can?>ides is prep>$ by prolong$ mac]ation ( ounce ( p[d]$ can?>ides 9 "o qu>t ( alcohol4 ,,circassian ,,pomade4 ,b5zo9 pomade 7see bel[7 #b lb4 ,rose pomade #a lb4 ,l>d #b lb4 ,express$ oil ( almond #d lb4 ,alkanet root #c oz4 ,oil ( rose oz4 ,! almond oil alone is fir/ mac]at$ ) ! alkanet root until1 :5 add$ to ! o!r +r$i5ts1 x imp>ts a beautiful r$ color to ! pomade4 ,,b5zo9 ,,pomade ,a4 ,b5zoic acid1 sublim$ #d oz4 ,purifi$ fat #d lb4 ,,b5zo9 ,,pomade ,b4 ,b5zo9 #ab oz4 ,fat #d lb4 ,mac]ate ! b5zo9 or b5zoic acid 9 ! fat at ! temp]ature ( boil+ wat] = sev]al h\rs1 & /ra9 ! pomade ?r\gh a clo?4 ,,d\ble ,,pomades4 ,^! pomades are put on ! m>ket 9 excell5t quality especially by ,fr5* manufactur]s4 ,!y consi/ ( a mixture ( wa%$ pomades & huiles antiques4 ,! respective quantities mu/ be *os5 accord+ to ! climate ( ! c\ntry = :i* ! articles are int5d$4 ,cold] c\ntries require equal p>ts by weight ( pomades & oils2 w>m] climates1 two p>ts ( fat to "o ( oil4 ,,cry/alliz$ ,,oil 7,,huile ,,cry/allis,e74 ,huile antique ( orange fl[]s #a lb4 ,huile antique ( roses #b lb4 ,huile antique ( tub]oses #b lb4 ,huile antique ( violets #b lb4 ,sp]maceti #a lb4 ,p>aff9 #g oz4 ,! addition ( sp]maceti & p>aff9 causes ! mixture to assume a cry/all9e =m on cool+1 ! appe>ance improv+ 9 proportion z ! cool+ is sl[ & gradual4 ,fir/ melt ! p>aff9 & sp]maceti on a wat] ba?1 add ! huiles antiques1 mix ?or\ghly by prolong$ /irr+1 & p\r ! f9i%$ product into ! vessels 9 :i* x is to be sold4 ,^! vessels are previ\sly w>m$ to #fj or #gj ,c4 7#adj-aeh;,f471 & v sl[ly aft] fill+1 s z to secure a beautiful cry/all9e mass4 ,a second quality ( cry/all9e hair oil is made accord+ to ! foll[+ =mula3 ,express$ oil ( almond #aj lb4 ,sp]maceti #ba oz4 ,p>aff9 #ad oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #b oz4 ,oil ( lemon #d oz4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #aej gra9s4 ,,blossom ,,pomade 7,,pomade ,,fleurs74 ,express$ oil ( almond #d lb4 ,jasm9e pomade #bh oz4 ,rose pomade #bh oz4 ,violet pomade #bh oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot oz4 ,oil ( lemon #aej gra9s4 ,,be>',s ,,grease ,,pomade 7,,pomade ,,graisse ,d',,ours74 ,express$ oil ( almond #bj lb4 ,l>d #bd lb4 ,cassie pomade #d lb4 ,jasm9e pomade #d lb4 ,huile antique ( cassie #a lb4 ,huile antique ( jasm9e #a lb4 ,huile antique ( orange fl[]s #a lb4 ,huile antique ( roses #a lb4 ,huile antique ( tub]oses #a lb4 ,oil ( b]gamot lb4 ,oil ( lemon #c oz4 ,oil ( nutmeg #a oz4 ,oil ( clove #d oz4 ,?is pomade is r consi/5t2 if x is to be made /ill firm] = summ] use or w>m climates1 ! almond oil %\ld be dim9i%$ & ! l>d increas$ 9 proportion1 or "s tall[ & wax add$4 ,! pomade is made by mix+ ! oil & l>d1 add+ next ! pomades & huiles antiques1 & f9ally ! ess5tial oils4 ,! temp]ature %\ld n be high] ?an suffices to keep ! mass liquid2 ! mixture is effect$ by vigor\s /irr+1 & is !n at once1 ?\gh gradually1 cool$4 ,,beef-,,m>r[ ,,pomade 7,,pomade ,,mo,,lle ,,de ,b,,uf74 ,l>d #h lb4 ,beef m>r[ #d lb4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon #b oz4 ,oil ( mace #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #aej gra9s4 ,,m>r[ ,,cream 7,,cr,,me ,,de ,,mo,,lle74 ,express$ oil ( almond #d lb4 ,l>d #d lb4 ,palm oil #c oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #b oz4 ,oil ( lemon #g oz4 ,oil ( nutmeg #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( c9namon #aej gra9s4 ,! public is accu/om$ to receive ! la/ two pomades 9 ! =m ( fro?4 ,?is c be easily effect$ by :ipp+ ! pomade dur+ cool+ ) an egg-beat] until x is solidifi$4 ,,c9*ona ,,pomade 7,,pomade ,,qu9qu9e74 ,l>d #d lb4 ,express$ oil ( almond #a lb4 ,beef m>r[ #f lb4 ,p]u balsam #a oz4 ,c9*ona b>k oz4 ,oil ( clove #a oz4 ,oil ( rose #aej gra9s4 ,mac]ate ! f9ely p[d]$ b>k 9 ! fat = "s h\rs1 add ! ,p]u balsam1 /ra9 ?r\gh a clo?1 & incorporate ! ess5tial oils4 ,! pomade is vaunt$ z a hair tonic1 z well z ,,tanno-,,qu99e ,,pomade1 :i* is prep>$ 9 ! same way2 ! only diff]5ce be+ ! addition ( #aej gra9s ( tann94 ,,ca/or-,,oil ,,cream 7,,cr,,me ,,de ,,ric9e74 ,express$ oil ( almond #c lb4 ,ca/or oil #c lb4 ,rose pomade #b lb4 ,orange-fl[] pomade #b lb4 ,tub]ose pomade #b lb4 ,oil ( b]gamot #g oz4 ,oil ( lemon #c oz4 ,,orange-,,fl[] ,,pomade 7,,pomade ,,fleurs ,d',,oranges74 ,express$ oil ( almond #ch oz4 ,cassie pomade #ch oz4 ,rose pomade #ce oz4 ,jasm9e pomade #ce oz4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli oz4 ,,heliotrope ,,pomade 7,,pomade ,,de ,h,,liotrope74 ,rose pomade #d lb4 ,orange-fl[] pomade #a lb4 ,huile antique ( jasm9e #b lb4 ,huile antique ( orange fl[] #a lb4 ,huile antique ( tub]ose #a lb4 ,vanilla pomade #b lb4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #ge gra9s4 ,,transp>5t ,,pomade4 ,express$ oil ( almond #f lb4 ,wax #e oz4 ,sp]maceti #a lb4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( rose #aej gra9s4 ,t9cture ( musk #a oz4 ,! pomade is completely liquefi$ aft] be+ mix$ & all[$ to congeal 9 ! vessels 9 :i* x is m>ket$4 ,if successful1 ! product mu/ be q transp>5t or at lea/ decid$ly transluc5t4 ,,tonka ,,cream4 ,tonka beans #a lb4 ,l>d #h lb4 ,! p[d]$ beans are /irr$ into ! melt$ fat1 9 :i* !y rema9 = sev]al days1 ! fat be+ agitat$ f "t to "t2 :5 x smells /rong en\gh1 x is /ra9$ ?r\gh f9e l951 & ! tonka beans are treat$ ) ano!r quantity ( fat4 ,,violet ,,pomade 7,,pomade ,,des ,,violettes74 ,l>d #d lb4 ,cassie pomade #c lb4 ,rose pomade #b lb4 ,violet pomade #b lb4 ,,vanilla ,,cream 7,,cr,,me ,,de ,,vanille74 ,vanilla #g oz4 ,l>d #f lb4 ,9 mak+ ?is pomade ! mat]ial is treat$ ! same z 9 prep>+ tonka pomade4 ,ord9>y vanilla pomade is made by triturat+3 ,p]u balsam #g oz4 ,l>d #b lb4 ,express$ oil ( almond #b lb4 ,fir/ triturate ! balsam ) ! almond oil & gradually add ! l>d4 ,ano!r1 mu* bett] process is ! foll[+3 ,,vanilla ,,pomade4 ,vanill9 #hj gra9s4 ,p]u balsam oz4 ,l>d #f lb4 ,dissolve ! vanill9 & balsam ( ,p]u 9 ab\t #d oz4 ( alcohol4 ,melt ! l>d at z l[ a temp]ature z possible1 !n add ! solution1 /ir until x is well incorporat$1 & aft]w>d repeat$ly until ! mass is cold4 ,,pomade ,,philocome4 ,huile antique ( cassie #a lb4 ,huile antique ( jasm9e #a lb4 ,huile antique ( orange fl[] #c oz4 ,huile antique ( rose #c oz4 ,huile antique ( tub]ose #c oz4 ,huile antique ( violet #a lb4 ,p>aff9 #aj oz4 ,wax #ad oz4 ,?is pomade has a delightful odor b is exp5sive2 an inf]ior & mu* *eap] philocome is made z foll[s3 ,express$ oil ( almond #h lb4 ,p>aff9 lb4 ,wax #ad oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #d oz4 ,oil ( lemon #a oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] oz4 ,nutmeg #ge gra9s4 ,cloves #ge gra9s4 ,c9namon #ge gra9s4 ,pomades are usually color$--rose pomade1 r$2 res$a pomade1 gre52 violet pomade1 violet1 etc4 ,= ?is purpose anil9e colors are frequ5tly us$2 !y mu/ be dissolv$ 9 glyc]9 & add$ to ! fat1 z !y are insoluble 9 ! latt]4 ,! color+ matt] is add$ :5 ! pomades are f9i%$1 be=e !y are all[$ to congeal4 ,b4 ,hair ,oils4 ,^! diff] f pomades ma9ly by conta9+ huiles antiques in/ead ( wa%$ pomades2 !y are !re=e m or less liquid & are us$ = ! hair z mu* z pomades4 ,,b5zoat$ ,,oil 7,,huile ,,b5jam974 ,sublim$ b5zoic acid #e oz4 ,express$ oil ( almond #d lb4 ,! acid mu/ be dissolv$ 9 ! hot oil4 ,,huile ,l',,ess-,,b\quet4 ,oil ( rose #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( res$a #c oz4 ,oil ( violet #aej gra9s4 ,t9cture ( musk #ge gra9s4 ,almond oil #f lb4 ,! ess5tial oils are mix$1 & ! almond oil is add$ 9 small portions "u cont9ual /irr+4 ,,heliotrope ,,hair ,,oil 7,,huile ,h,,liotrope74 ,huile antique ( jasm9e #aj oz4 ,huile antique ( rose #b lb4 ,huile antique ( orange fl[] #e oz4 ,huile antique ( tub]ose #e oz4 ,huile antique ( vanilla #a lb4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #ge gra9s4 ,,jasm9e ,,hair ,,oil 7,,huile ,,de ,,jasm974 ,express$ oil ( almond #d lb4 ,huile antique ( jasm9e4 #g oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon #aej gra9s4 ,,oil ,,( ,,swiss ,,h]bs4 ,express$ oil ( almond #d lb4 ,oil ( b]gamot #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( lav5d] #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( pepp]m9t #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( c9namon #ge gra9s4 ,,oil ,,( ,,burdock ,,root4 ,express$ oil ( almond #d lb4 ,burdock root #a lb4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon #a oz4 ,oil ( rose oz4 ,! burdock root is mac]at$ = two days 9 ! w>m oil1 :i* is !n filt]$ & ! o!r +r$i5ts are add$4 ,,macass> ,,oil4 ,express$ oil ( almond #d lb4 ,alkanet root #g oz4 ,oil ( clove #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( mace #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( rose #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( c9namon oz4 ,t9cture ( musk #ge gra9s4 ,! alkanet root 9 co>se p[d] mu/ be mac]at$ 9 ! w>m almond oil until x acquires a deep r$ color4 ,,p]u ,,hair ,,oil4 ,p]u balsam #c oz4 ,/orax #a oz4 ,express$ oil ( almond #h lb4 ,mix by /irr+1 & all[ to settle = two weeks 9 a completely fill$ bottle4 ,,huile ,,philocome4 ,express$ oil ( almond #d lb4 ,huile antique ( cassie #a lb4 ,huile antique ( jasm9e #bh oz4 ,wax #c oz4 ,sp]maceti #a oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #a oz4 ,oil ( rose #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( c9namon #ge gra9s4 ,,portugal ,,oil4 ,express$ oil ( almond #d lb4 ,oil ( b]gamot #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( orange fl[] #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( orange peel oz4 ,oil ( c9namon #ge gra9s4 ,,tonka ,,oil4 ,tonka beans #a lb4 ,express$ oil ( almond #d lb4 ,inclose ! p[d]$ tonka beans 9 a l95 bag1 :i* is hung into ! cold oil & all[$ to mac]ate = sev]al weeks4 ,! same process is employ$ = ! foll[+3 ,,vanilla ,,oil4 ,vanilla #g oz4 ,almond oil #d lb4 ,or1 ,vanill9 #hj gra9s4 ,express$ oil ( almond #d lb4 ,,*apt] ,,xxiv4 ,,prep>ations ,,= ,,! ,,c>e ,,( ,,! ,,m\?4 ,besides ! r$ lips & ! gums1 ! tee? 9 p>ticul> ornam5t ! m\?4 ,un=tunately !re are b few p]sons :o c boa/ ( a p]fectly heal?y set ( tee?1 :i* is f\nd z a normal condition only among savages & animals4 ,! *ief causes ( ! admitt$ fact t mo/ p]sons h "s defect 9 ! m\?--bad tee?1 pale gums1 (f5sive odor--lie 9 "p 9 our civilization ) ! +e/ion ( hot & sometimes s\r food1 9 "p 9 ! lack ( att5tion be/[$ on ! c>e ( ! m\? by _m p4 ,! c>e ( ! m\? is mo/ important aft] meals & 9 ! morn+2 p>ticles ( food lodge ev5 betwe5 ! mo/ p]fect tee? & und]go rapid decomposition 9 ! high temp]ature prevail+ 9 ! m\?4 ,?is gives rise to a mo/ disagreeable odor1 & ! decomposition quickly ext5ds to ! tee?4 ,p]fectly normal heal?y tee? consi/ ( a h>d1 brilliant ext]nal coat1 ! enamel1 :i* opposes great resi/ance to acid & decompos+ sub/ances4 ,b un=tunately ! enamel is v s5sitive to *anges ( temp]ature & easily cracks1 ?us admitt+ to ! bony "p ( ! tee? su* delet]i\s sub/ances & lead+ to _! de/ruction4 ,! bulk ( ! too? consi/s ( a por\s mass ( bone :i* is easily de/roy$1 & ?us ! entire set may be lo/4 ,hygi5ic p]fum]y is able to (f] to ! public means by :i* a heal?y set ( tee? c be kept 9 good condition & ! disease arre/$ 9 affect$ tee?1 & by :i* an agreeable fre%ness is imp>t$ to ! gums & lips4 ,:ile true p]fumes may be look$ ^u z m or less ( a luxury1 ! hygi5e ( ! m\? is a necessity2 = we h to deal ) ! heal? & pres]vation ( ! important ma/icatory app>atus :i* is necess>y to ! welf>e ( ! :ole body1 s t ! /hetic factor occupies a second>y position1 or r results z a necess>y consequ5ce f a prop] c>e ( ! m\?4 ,) no o!r hygi5ic article h s _m s9s be5 committ$ z ) ^? int5d$ = ! tee?2 we h _h occasion to exam9e a numb] ( too? p[d]s1 "s ( !m v high-pric$1 :i* 7 decid$ly injuri\s4 ,?us we h kn[n ( cases 9 :i* p[d]$ pumice /one1 color$ & p]fum$1 has be5 sold z a too? p[d]4 ,pumice /one1 h[ev]1 resembles glass 9 its composition & acts on ! tee? l a f9e file :i* rapidly we>s away ! enamel & exposes ! frail bony sub/ance4 ,x ne$s no fur!r explanation to prove ! de/ructive effects ( su* a p[d] on ! tee?4 ,_m p]son prize f9ely p[d]$ wood *>coal z a too? p[d]1 & to "s ext5t !y are "r4 ,wood *>coal always conta9s alkalies :i* neutralize ! injuri\s acids1 besides traces ( products ( dry di/illation :i* prev5t decomposition4 ,b ^! valuable prop]ties are c\nt]act$ by ! fact t *>coal is always m or less gritty1 or1 be+ insoluble1 w lodge betwe5 ! tee? & =m ! nucleus = ! lodgem5t ( o!r sub/ances4 ,9 comp\nd+ articles = ! m\? & tee?--too? p[d]s & m\? wa%es--! objects aim$ at are to neutralize ! *emical processes t injure ! tee? & gums1 & to re/ore fre%ness & resi/+ p[] to ! relax$ gums & muc\s membranes4 ,remnants ( food left 9 ! m\? aft] meals soon develop acids :i* attack ! tee?2 !y are neutraliz$ by basic sub/ances or alkalies :i* c\nt]act !m4 ,! =mation ( organic acids f food remnants is caus$ by microscopic fungi 7s*izomycetes7 :i* adh]e to ! tee? 7s-call$ t>t>7 9 ! abs5ce ( cleanl9ess2 aga9/ ^! p>asites !re are at our disposal a numb] ( sub/ances :i* kill !m rapidly & ?us = a "t arre/ ! process ( decomposition2 !y are !re=e call$ antiseptics4 ,ano!r gr\p ( +r$i5ts acts especially on su* abnormal conditions ( ! membran\s & fle%y p>ts ( ! m\? z manife/ !mselves by colorless1 easily ble$+ gums4 ,x is ma9ly comp\nds ( ! tann9 gr\p :i* /r5g!n ! gums & are kn[n z a/r+5ts4 ,9 comp\nd+ articles = ! tee? x has ?us f> un=tunately n be5 cu/om>y to comb9e sev]al ( ! sub/ances hav+ ! above prop]ties1 ! g5]al rule be+ to incorporate only "o 9 ! composition1 & "s s-call$ too? lotions consi/ ev5 ( aromatics alone4 ,su* articles p]fume ! m\?1 b h no hygi5ic effect ^u x4 ,among ! ess5tial oils1 h[ev]1 !re is "o :i* %\ld =m a "p ( e article int5d$ = ! c>e ( ! m\?1 provid$ x c rema9 un*ang$ 9 ! pres5ce ( ! o!r +r$i5ts1 :i* w\ld n be ! case :]e p]manganate ( potassium is us$4 ,oil ( pepp]m9t & o!r m9t oils ex]t a v refre%+ influ5ce on ! muc\s membranes ( ! m\?1 9 :i* !y leave a s5sation ( fre%ness la/+ = "s "t4 ,we give bel[ a numb] ( =mulas = ! manufacture ( articles = ! c>e ( ! m\?1 z to ! value ( :i* ! read] c =m 8 own op9ion f :at has be5 /at$4 ,f9ally x may be obs]v$ t sev]al ( ! s-call$ secret prep>ations = ! c>e ( ! m\? are arrant humbugs1 wor?less sub/ances be+ sold at exorbitant prices &1 worse yet1 lack+ ! vaunt$ hygi5ic effect ow+ to _! *emical composition4 ,! articles = ! c>e ( ! m\? & tee? may be divid$ into too? pa/es1 too? p[d]s1 too? t9ctures or lotions1 & m\? wa%es4 ,a4 ,too? ,pa/es4 ,,too? ,,soap 7,,savon ,,d5tifrice74 ,soap #b lb4 ,talcum #b lb4 ,orris root #b lb4 ,sug> #a lb4 ,wat] #a lb4 ,oil ( clove #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( pepp]m9t oz4 ,! soap %\ld be good1 well-boil$ tall[ soap2 x is mix$ ) ! o!r +r$i5ts 7! sug> is to be previ\sly dissolv$ 9 ! wat]7 by ?or\gh & prolong$ /irr+1 & is usually sold 9 %all[ porcela9 boxes4 ,! talcum or ,fr5* *alk is a s(t m9]al ) a fatty feel & is a common comm]cial article4 ,?is too? soap & o!r simil> prep>ations = ! c>e ( ! m\? are frequ5tly color$ rose r$4 ,( c\rse only h>mless colors c be us$4 ,! mo/ appropriate are rose madd] lake & c>m9e4 ,,too? ,,pa/e 7,p,,te ,,d5tifrice74 ,prep>$ *alk #b lb4 ,orris root #b lb4 ,sug> #b lb4 ,wat] #a lb4 ,madd] lake to #a oz4 ,oil ( lav5d] #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( mace #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( clove #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( pepp]m9t #a oz4 ,oil ( rose #aej gra9s4 ,! prep>$ *alk us$ 9 ?is & _m o!r articles is pure precipitat$ c>bonate ( lime4 ,x is made f pieces ( :ite m>ble1 ! (fal f sculptors' work%ops1 :i* are plac$ 9 wide porcela9 or glass vessels & cov]$ ) hydro*loric acid1 :5 abundant vapors ( c>bonic acid are giv5 (f4 ,:5 ! developm5t ( c>bonic acid has ceas$1 ! liquid is all[$ to /& at re/ = sev]al days ) an excess ( m>ble1 :]eby all ! iron oxide is sep>at$4 ,?is is necess>y1 o!rwise ! prep>ation w\ld n be :ite1 b yell[i%4 ,! liquid is filt]$ & treat$ ) a solution ( c>bonate ( soda 7sal soda71 9 wat] z long z any :ite precipitate results4 ,?is precipitate is wa%$ ) pure wat] on a filt]1 & :5 sl[ly dri$ x =ms a f9e1 brilliant :ite p[d]4 ,cry/all9e calcium *loride may also be pur*as$1 dissolv$ 9 wat]1 & treat$ ) ! soda solution to obta9 ! :ite precipitate4 ,! quantity ( madd] lake 9 ! above =mula is giv5 )9 ! limits to =m light or d>k r$ too? pa/e4 ,b4 ,too? ,p[d]s4 ,,qu99e ,,too? ,,p[d]4 ,prep>$ *alk #b lb4 ,/>* fl\r #a lb4 ,orris root1 p[d]$ #a lb4 ,sulphate ( qu99e oz4 ,oil ( pepp]m9t #aej gra9s4 ,,c9*ona ,,b>k ,,too? ,,p[d]4 ,c9*ona b>k1 p[d]$ #a lb4 ,prep>$ *alk #b lb4 ,myrrh1 p[d]$ #a lb4 ,orris root1 p[d]$ #b lb4 ,c9namon1 p[d]$ #a lb4 ,c>bonate ( ammonia #b lb4 ,oil ( clove oz4 ,,borat$ ,,too? ,,p[d]4 ,borax1 p[]$ #a lb4 ,prep>$ *alk #b lb4 ,myrrh1 p[d]$ lb4 ,orris root1 p[d]$ lb4 ,c9namon1 p[d]$ lb4 ,,hom,,opa?ic ,,*alk ,,too? ,,p[d]4 ,prep>$ *alk #d lb4 ,/>* fl\r #e oz4 ,orris root1 p[d]$ lb4 ,oil ( c9namon #a oz4 ,,camphorat$ ,,*alk ,,too? ,,p[d]4 ,prep>$ *alk #d lb4 ,camphor #a lb4 ,orris root1 p[d]$ #b lb4 ,c9namon1 p[d]$ lb4 ,,*>coal ,,too? ,,p[d]4 ,*>coal1 p[d]$ #d lb4 ,c9*ona b>k1 p[]$ #a lb4 ,oil ( b]gamot oz4 ,oil ( lemon #a oz4 ,! *>coal mu/ be d]iv$ f "s s(t wood2 will[1 popl>1 or buck?orn are among ! mo/ appropriate4 ,,cuttlefi%-,,bone ,,too? ,,p[d]4 ,prep>$ *alk #d lb4 ,cuttlefi%-bone1 p[d]$ #b lb4 ,orris root1 p[d]$ #b lb4 ,oil ( b]gamot oz4 ,oil ( lemon #a oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( orange oz4 ,,ca*\s ,,aromatis,,es4 ,ca*\s are ( a pillul> composition1 & us$ n s mu* = ! tee? z to imp>t fragrance to ! brea?4 ,!y are made z foll[s3 ,gum acacia #a oz4 ,cate*u1 p[d]$ #b oz4 ,licorice juice #a lb4 ,casc>illa1 p[d]$ oz4 ,ma/ic1 p[d]$ oz4 ,orris root1 p[d]$ oz4 ,oil ( clove #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( pepp]m9t oz4 ,t9cture ( amb]gris #ge gra9s4 ,t9cture ( musk4 #ge gra9s4 ,boil ! solids ) wat] until a pa/y mass results :i* becomes firm on cool+4 ,! aromatics are !n add$1 & ! mass is roll$ into pills :i* are cov]$ ) g5u9e silv] foil4 ,"o ( ^! pills suffices to remove ! odor ( tobacco1 etc41 completely f ! m\?4 ,,pa/illes ,,ori5tales4 ,sug> #h lb4 ,c>m9e #ge gra9s4 ,gum acacia #b lb4 ,musk #ae gra9s4 ,oil ( rose #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( vetiv] #ae gra9s4 ,civet #ae gra9s4 ,t>t>ic acid #aej gra9s4 ,add ! ess5tial oils to ! p[d]$ solids1 mix intimately1 & add en\gh wat] to =m a /iff d\gh1 to be made into pills :i* :5 *ew$ remove ! odor ( tobacco or o!r unpleasant odors4 ,rose ,too? ,p[d]4 ,prep>$ *alk #d lb4 ,orris root1 p[d]$ #b lb4 ,madd] lake #a to #b oz4 ,oil ( rose oz4 ,oil ( santal #aej gra9s4 ,,sug> ,,too? ,,p[d]4 ,bone-a% #d lb4 ,orris root1 p[d]$ #d lb4 ,sug>1 p[d]$ #b lb4 ,oil ( b]gamot oz4 ,oil ( citron oz4 ,oil ( mace #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( orange #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( rosem>y oz4 ,,*9ese ,,too? ,,p[d]4 ,pumice /one #d lb4 ,/>* fl\r4 #a lb4 ,madd] lake #a oz4 ,oil ( pepp]m9t oz4 ,! pumice /one mu/ be gr\nd into ! f9e/ p[d] & levigat$1 be=e be+ mix$ ) ! o!r +r$i5ts4 ,note our rem>ks on pumice /one on page #beh4 ,c4 ,too? ,t9ctures 7,lotions7 & ,m\? ,wa%es 7,ess5ces ,d5tifrices74 ,,eau ,,ana?,,r9e4 ,guaiac wood #c oz4 ,myrrh #h oz4 ,cloves #e oz4 ,santal wood #e oz4 ,c9namon #a oz4 ,alcohol #d qts4 ,rose wat] #b qts4 ,oil ( mace4 #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( rose #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( c9namon #ge gra9s4 ,! solids are mac]at$ 9 ! alcohol1 ! ess5tial oils are dissolv$ 9 ! filt]$ liquid1 & la/ly ! rose wat] is add$4 ,,eau ,,de ,,botot4 ,?is too? t9cture1 :i* is q a favorite1 is made 9 diff]5t ways2 ! compositions made accord+ to ! ,fr5* & ,engli% =mulas are consid]$ ! be/4 ,= ?is & _m o!r too? t9ctures rhatany root is also frequ5tly us$4 ,rhatany root is d]iv$ f ,kram]ia tri&ra1 a ,s\? ,am]ican plant4 ,its alcoholic t9cture has a r$ color4 ,a4 ,,fr5* ,,=mula4 ,anise #aj oz4 ,co*9eal oz4 ,mace #aej gra9s4 ,cloves4 #aej gra9s4 ,c9namon #b oz4 ,alcohol #c qts4 ,oil ( pepp]m9t oz4 ,b4 ,,engli% ,,=mula4 ,t9cture ( c$> #d qts4 ,t9cture ( myrrh #a qt4 ,t9cture ( rhatany #a qt4 ,oil ( lav5d] oz4 ,oil ( pepp]m9t #a oz4 ,oil ( rose #aej gra9s4 ,,borat$ ,,too? ,,t9cture4 ,borax #e oz4 ,myrrh #e oz4 ,r$ santal wood #e oz4 ,sug> #e oz4 ,cologne wat] #a qt4 ,alcohol #c qts4 ,wat] #c p9ts4 ,mac]ate ! myrrh & santal wood 9 ! alcohol1 !n add ! ,cologne wat]1 & la/ly ! sug> & borax dissolv$ 9 ! wat]4 ,,camphorat$ ,,cologne ,,wat]4 ,camphor #a lb4 ,cologne wat] #d qts4 ,cologne wat] ) myrrh is made 9 ! same way1 by sub/itut+ a l weight ( myrrh = ! camphor4 ,,eau ,,de ,,milan4 ,k9o #c oz4 ,civet #ge gra9s4 ,c9namon oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,oil ( b]gamot #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( lemon #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( pepp]m9t oz4 ,k9o conta9s an a/r+5t1 a v>iety ( tann91 & =ms a d>k r$ solution ) alcohol4 ,,eau ,,de ,,mialhe4 ,t9cture ( b5zo9 oz4 ,t9cture ( tolu oz4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #aej gra9s4 ,k9o #e oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,oil ( anise4 #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( pepp]m9t oz4 ,oil ( />-anise #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( c9namon #aej gra9s4 ,,myrrh ,,too? ,,t9cture4 ,mace #a oz4 ,myrrh4 #h oz4 ,cloves #h oz4 ,rhatany root4 #h oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,*loral ,,m\? ,,wa%4 ,*loral hydrate #a oz4 ,wat] #aj oz4 ,a small quantity ( ?is1 r9s$ ab\t ! m\?1 removes e trace ( bad odor4 ,,potassium ,,p]manganate ,,wat]4 ,potassium p]manganate #c oz4 ,di/ill$ wat] #e qts4 ,potassium p]manganate easily dissolves 9 di/ill$ wat] & =ms a beautiful violet solution1 a few drops ( :i* are plac$ 9 a glass ( wat] = use4 ,?is salt is "o ( ! mo/ valuable articles = ! tee?2 x has ! prop]ty ( readily giv+ (f oxyg5 to organic sub/ances & h5ce imm$iately de/roys all odor 9 ! m\? by oxidiz+ ! organic bodies2 x also removes at once ! odor ( tobacco smoke4 ,aft] r9s+ ! m\? ) ?is solution1 x is well to use "s pepp]m9t wat] = poli%+ ! tee?4 ,?is m\? wa% leaves br[n /a9s on l95 & o!r mat]ials z well z on ! sk92 su* spots c only be remov$ ) acids 7hydro*loric1 oxalic1 etc474 ,,salicylat$ ,,too? ,,t9cture4 ,salicylic acid #a oz4 ,orange-fl[] wat] #cj gra9s4 ,wat] #b qts4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,oil ( pepp]m9t #cj gra9s4 ,salicylic acid is a sub/ance possess+ /rong antiseptic prop]ties2 !re=e1 :5 ?is m\? wa% is us$ aft] meals1 ! occurr5ce ( any bad odor1 ev5 9 p]sons ) defective tee?1 is prev5t$ & ! progress ( c>ies is arre/$1 s t ! acid may be consid]$ "o ( ! mo/ valuable sub/ances 9 hygi5ic p]fum]y4 ,dissolve ! salicylic acid 9 ! w>m alcohol mix$ ) wat]2 add to ! /ill w>m solution ! orange-fl[] wat] & ! oil ( pepp]m9t dissolv$ 9 "s ( ! alcohol4 ,,eau ,,de ,,salvia4 ,oil ( lemon4 oz4 ,oil ( sage #a oz4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,wat] #d qts4 ,! ess5tial oils are dissolv$ 9 ! alcohol1 & ?is solution mix$ ) ! wat]4 ,,eau ,,de ,,violettes4 ,t9cture ( orris root #a qt4 ,rose wat]1 triple #a qt4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #cj gra9s4 ,,*apt] ,,xxv4 ,,cosmetic ,,p]fum]y4 ,9 cosmetic p]fum]y1 use is made *iefly ( articles :i* s]ve to beautify "s p>ts ( ! body by artificial means2 = in/ance1 to imp>t to pale *eeks a y\?ful fre%ness or to re/ore to prematurely gray hair its orig9al appe>ance4 ,9 s f> z ! =m] object is atta9$ also by ! prep>ations discuss$ 9 ,*apt]s ,,xxi41 ,,xxii41 ,,xxiii41 & ,,xxiv41 !y likewise belong to ! doma9 ( cosmetic p]fum]y2 = heal? & beauty are insep>ably connect$4 ,?\gh we h sep>at$ hygi5ic f cosmetic p]fum]y1 we h done s only 9 ord] to draw ! l9e betwe5 prep>ations ^: regul> use really improves ! bodily heal?1 & ^? :i* tempor>ily cov] a defect ( c]ta9 p>ts ( ! body4 ,cosmetics may also be divid$ into sev]al gr\ps--^? = beautify+ ! sk91 z pa9ts & toilet p[d]s2 & ^? = ! c>e ( ! hair4 ,! latt] are subdivid$ into hair wa%es1 hair dyes1 s-call$ hair tonics1 depilatories1 & prep>ations = dress+ ! hair1 i4e41 = mak+ x glossy & fix+ x4 ,,*apt] ,,xxvi4 ,,sk9 ,,cosmetics ,,& ,,face ,,lotions4 ,! use ( sk9 cosmetics & pa9ts is ( remote antiquity1 b v>ies 9 diff]5t nations accord+ to _! civilization & _! s5se ( beauty4 ,:ile among c]ta9 ,ori5tal nations d>k blue r+s ar\nd ! eyes1 ) yell[ lips & nails1 pass = beautiful1 ! ,european prizes only a :ite sk9 ) a delicate t+e ( r$2 ,italian ladies 9 ! middle ages us$ ! d>k r$ juice ( ! fruit ( ! deadly night-%ade z a pa9t1 h5ce ! "n bella donna1 i4e41 beautiful lady4 7,accord+ to ,mat?iolus1 ! "n h]ba bella donna arose f ! fact t ,italian ladies us$ a di/ill$ wat] ( ! plant z a cosmetic47 ,ow+ to its m>k$ effect on ! eyes1 by dilat+ ! pupil & increas+ ! lu/re1 ?is juice also height5s ! brilliancy ( ! eye1 ?\gh at ! exp5se ( its heal?4 ,:ile 9 ! la/ c5tury face-pa9t+ 0 a univ]sal fa%ion1 x is n[adays resort$ to only by p]sons ^: sk9 requires "s artificial help4 ,b nobody desires t ! cosmetic %\ld be p]ceptible on ! sk94 ,h5ce x mu/ be laid d[n z a rule t pa9ts & all cosmetics %\ld be s comp\nd$ t x is n easily possible to ! obs]v] to recognize t "s artificial means has be5 employ$ = beautify+ ! sk94 ,we give bel[ a numb] ( su* articles1 :i* come z ne> z possible to ?is ideal )\t injur+ ! sk94 ,z e sk9 cosmetic _c b occlude ! pores ( ! sk91 x %\ld be remov$ z soon z possible--an advice to be he$$ p>ticul>ly by actors & actresses1 :o mu/ appe> pa9t$ on ! bo>ds4 ,a4 ,:ite ,sk9 ,cosmetics4 ,,fr5* ,,:ite 7,,blanc ,,fran,,ais74 ,talcum #d lb4 ,oil ( lemon #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( b]gamot #ge gra9s4 ,! talcum mu/ be r$uc$ to ! f9e/ p[d]1 levigat$1 dri$1 & !n p]fum$4 ,ow+ to its unctu\s nature1 x readily adh]es to ! sk91 & z x has no effect on x & does n *ange color1 x is ! be/ ( all p[d]s4 ,,liquid ,,bismu? ,,:ite2 ,,pe>l ,,:ite 7,,blanc ,,p]l ,,liquide74 ,subnitrate ( bismu? #a lb4 ,rose wat] #a qt4 ,orange-fl[] wat] #a qt4 ,:5 /&+ at re/1 ! subnitrate ( bismu? s9ks to ! bottom1 :ile ! sup]natant fluid becomes q cle>4 ,! bottle mu/ !re=e be vigor\sly %ak5 imm$iately be=e use4 ,:5 ?is prep>ation rema9s on ! sk9 = "s l5g? ( "t1 x loses its pure :ite color & becomes yell[1 or d>k]1 ?r\gh ! gradual =mation ( a black sulphur comp\nd4 ,,v5etian ,,*alk 7,,craie ,,v5,,ti5ne74 is made exactly l ! ,fr5* :ite1 above2 ! only diff]5ce betwe5 ! two prep>ations is t ! talcum = ! latt] is br\ght to a r$ heat1 :i*1 h[ev]1 causes x 9 "p to lose ! p[] ( adh]+ to ! sk94 ,b4 ,r$ ,sk9 ,cosmetics 7,r\ges74 ,,r\ge ,v,,getal ,,rose ,,liquide4 ,ammonia wat] #b oz4 ,c>m9e #a oz4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #b oz4 ,rose wat] #b qts4 ,?is sup]ior prep>ation1 :i* s]ves ma9ly = color+ ! lips1 is made z foll[s3 ,r$uce ! c>m9e to p[d]2 mac]ate x 9 ! ammonia 9 a ?ree or f\r p9t bottle = sev]al days1 add ! o!r +r$i5ts1 & let x /& = a week "u (t-repeat$ agitation4 ,at ! end ( t "t ! bottle is left undi/urb$ until ! cont5ts h become q cle>1 :5 !y are c>efully decant$ & fill$ into bottles = sale4 ,9 ord] to obta9 ?is prep>ation 9 prop] =m1 only ! f9e/ c>m9e %\ld be us$4 ,t kn[n 9 ! m>ket z 8,no4 #dj0 is ! be/4 ,?is alone w produce a cosmetic t1 :5 br\ght 9 contact ) ! sk91 w give a vivid r$ color4 ,9 place ( c>m9e1 :i* requires ! pres5ce ( ammonia if x is to rema9 9 solution1 ! anil9 color kn[n z eos9e may be us$4 ,( ?is1 v m9ute am\nts w be suffici5t to imp>t ! prop] t9t4 ,x is impracticable to give exact proportions1 z ^! mu/ be det]m9$ 9 ea* case by exp]im5t4 ,x is necess>y to avoid an excess4 ,! t9t ( a liquid color$ by eos9e may n appe> deep1 & yet :5 x is appli$ to ! sk9 a decid$ly deep] /a9 ?an 0 desir$ may be produc$4 ,h5ce ea* addition ( fre% color+ matt] mu/ be c>efully controll$ by a practical te/4 ,,r\ge ,,en ,,feuilles4 ,cut f ?ick1 highly cal5d]$ pap] circul> disks ab\t #b in*es 9 diamet]1 & cov] !m ) a lay] ( c>m9e conta9+ j en\gh gum acacia to make x adh]e to ! pap]4 ,= use1 ! leaf is brea!d on1 a pl$get ( f9e cotton is rubb$ ov] x1 & ! adh]+ color is transf]r$ to ! sk94 ,,r\ge ,,en ,p,,te4 ,c>m9e #a oz4 ,talcum #ba oz4 ,gum acacia #a oz4 ,! +r$i5ts 9 f9e/ p[d] are mix$ 9 a mort> by prolong$ trituration1 !n wat] is add$ 9 small portions to =m a d\ghy mass to be fill$ into %all[ porcela9 di%es ab\t ! diamet] ( a doll>4 ,if ! r\ge is desir$ d>k] = ! use ( actors & d>k-complexion$ p]sons1 ! proportion ( c>m9e %\ld be increas$4 ,,r\ge ,,en ,,tasses4 ,c>?am9 #a oz4 ,talcum p[d] #a lb4 ,gum acacia #a oz4 ,oil ( rose #ae gra9s4 ,?is r\ge1 :5 dry1 has a gre5i% metallic lu/re2 x is prep>$ & sold l r\ge en pte4 ,,bleu ,v,,getal ,,p\r ,,les ,,ve9es4 ,v5etian *alk #a lb4 ,b]l9 blue #a oz4 ,gum acacia #a oz4 ,to ! p[d]$ solids add suffici5t wat] to =m a mass to be roll$ into /icks4 ,= use1 a p5cil is brea!d on1 rubb$ aga9/ ! r\gh side ( a piece ( :ite glove lea!r1 & ! ve9s are m>k$ ) ! adh]+ color on ! sk9 coat$ ) pe>l :ite4 ,( c\rse1 "s dext]ity is requir$ to make ! ve9s appe> natural by ! use ( ?is blue color4 ,,r\ge ,,alloxane 7,,alloxan ,,r$2 ,,murexide ,,pa9t74 ,cold cream #a lb4 ,alloxan #ge gra9s4 ,dissolve ! alloxan 9 a little wat] & mix x intimately ) any desir$ cold-cream4 ,! mixture is :ite1 b :5 transf]r$ to ! sk9 gradually becomes r$4 ,! prep>ation sold 9 ,au/ria1 etc41 "u ! "n ( 8,s*nuda0 is id5tical ) ?is alloxan pa9t4 ,c4 ,face ,lotions4 ,! sk9 (t5 conta9s spots ) m>k$ color :i* are m or less unsightly2 = in/ance1 freckles1 liv] spots1 "m's m>ks 7nvi71 etc4 ,un=tunately we "k ( no rem$y :i* radically removes !m2 ev5 *emical prep>ations ) ! mo/ en]getic effects1 :i* ( c\rse mu/ nev] be employ$ ow+ to _! de/ructive action on ! sk91 _c entirely d away ) ^! d>k spots :i* h _! seat 9 ! l[] lay]s ( ! sk94 ,b ! public dem&s prep>ations = ! removal ( freckles1 liv] spots1 etc41 &--obta9s !m4 ,we subjo9 ! =mulas = sev]al ( su* secret rem$ies1 b decl>e emphatically t none ( !m w completely effect ! desir$ result4 ,,freckle ,,milk 7,,lait ,,ant,,phelique74 ,camphor #a oz4 ,ammonium *loride oz4 ,corrosive sublimate #aej gra9s4 ,album5 #c oz4 ,rose wat] #b lb4 ,we call att5tion to ! fact t ! sublimate 7bi*loride ( m]cury7 is v poison\s & mu/ be us$ ) ! greate/ c>e4 ,,freckle ,,lotion4 ,angelica root #a oz4 ,black hellebore root #a oz4 ,/orax oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( citron #aej gra9s4 ,alcohol #b qts4 ,mac]ate = a week & filt]4 ,,eau ,,l5ticuleuse4 ,potassium c>bonate #g oz4 ,sug> oz4 ,orange-fl[] wat] #b qts4 ,alcohol #g oz4 ,,lilionese ,i4 ,potassium c>bonate #ad oz4 ,wat] #d lb4 ,rose wat] #ad oz4 ,alcohol #g oz4 ,oil ( rose #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( c9namon #ge gra9s4 ,,lilionese ,,ii4 ,rose wat] #b qts4 ,orange-fl[] wat] #a qt4 ,glyc]9 #a lb4 ,potassium c>bonate #c oz4 ,t9cture ( b5zo9 to #a oz4 ,add only en\gh ( ! alcoholic t9cture ( b5zo9 to r5d] ! liquid slightly opalesc5t or milky4 ,,lotion ,,= ,,*app$ ,,sk94 ,glyc]9 #d lb4 ,wat] #a qt4 ,rose wat] #a qt4 ,color pale r$ ) co*9eal4 ,,eau ,,de ,,p]les4 ,:ite soap #a lb4 ,dissolv$ 93 ,wat] #d qts4 ,glyc]9 #b lb4 ,add3 ,rose wat] #a qt4 ,t9cture ( musk #aej gra9s4 ,to be color$ blui% ) "s indigo-c>m94 ,,te9t ,,de ,,v5us4 ,alcoholic soap solution #b qts4 ,c>bonate ( potassium #c oz4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #c oz4 ,! soap solution is made z conc5trat$ z possible1 & ! entire fluid color$ ) co*9eal2 9 place ( ! extract ( orange fl[]1 o!r ess5ces or extracts may also be employ$4 ,= use1 "s ( ! liquid is p\r$ into ! wa% wat]4 ,,pul*,,r9e4 ,c>bonate ( potassium #ad oz4 ,wat] #d lb4 ,orange-fl[] wat] #b lb4 ,alcohol #c oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #aej gra9s4 ,t9cture ( vanilla oz4 ,! prec$+ prep>ations owe _! activity m]ely to ! pres5ce ( c>bonate ( potassium :i* =ms an emulsion ) ! fat ( ! sk9 & ?us resembles 9 its effects a mild soap4 ,! o!r +r$i5ts only s]ve to r5d] ! composition fragrant4 ,d4 ,toilet ,p[d]s4 ,toilet p[d]s are us$ to imp>t :it5ess & smoo?ness to ! sk92 h5ce !y are m]ely a k9d ( dry cosmetic :i* are appli$ by means ( a p[d] puff or a h>e's foot4 ,_! ma9 +r$i5ts are />* & talcum p[d]s1 p]fum$ & sometimes t9t$ a rose-r$ color4 ,x is immat]ial :at k9d ( />* is us$2 rice1 :eat1 & potato />* are equally effective1 provid$ !y are cle> :ite & 9 ! f9e/ p[d]4 ,9 "s cases ! bitt]-almond bran rema9+ aft] ! expression ( ! fix$ oil & ! prep>ation ( ! oil ( bitt] almond is likewise us$ = toilet p[d]s4 ,! m ?or\ghly ^! p[d]s are rubb$ into ! sk91 ! :it] ! latt] becomes & ! less easily c !y be detect$4 ,,:ite ,,toilet ,,p[d]4 ,f9e levigat$ z9c :ite #a oz4 ,v5etian talcum #a oz4 ,c>bonate ( magnesia #a oz4 ,oil ( rose #bj drops4 ,oil ( orris #bj drops4 ,mix intimately4 ,,p9k ,,toilet ,,p[d]4 ,:ite toilet p[d] 7see above7 #e oz4 ,c>m9e #h gra9s4 ,,p\dre ,,de ,,pi/a*es4 ,pi/a*io meal #aj lb4 ,talcum #aj lb4 ,oil ( lav5d] oz4 ,oil ( rose oz4 ,oil ( c9namon #ge gra9s4 ,! oil mu/ h be5 completely extract$ f ! pi/a*io meal1 :i* is to be r$uc$ to ! f9e/ p[d]4 ,,p\dre ,,la ,,rose4 ,/>* p[d] #bj lb4 ,c>m9e oz4 ,oil ( rose oz4 ,oil ( santal oz4 ,oil ( vetiv] #aej gra9s4 ,,p\dre ,,la ,,violette4 ,/>* p[d] #bj lb4 ,orris root1 9 f9e p[d] #aj lb4 ,oil ( b]gamot oz4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,oil ( clove #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #aej gra9s4 ,,p\dre ,,blan*e ,,surf9e 7,,p\dre ,,de ,,riz74 ,/>* p[d] #bj lb4 ,subnitrate ( bismu? #b lb4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,oil ( rose #aej gra9s4 ,,blanc ,,de ,,p]les ,,sec 7,,dry ,,pe>l ,,:ite74 ,v5etian *alk #bj lb4 ,subnitrate ( bismu? #db oz4 ,z9c :ite #db oz4 ,oil ( lemon #a oz4 ,,anti-,,odor94 ,/>* p[d] #a lb4 ,salicylic acid #aej gra9s4 ,?is mixture1 :i* is be/ left unp]fum$1 does excell5t s]vice :5 us$ to prev5t an (f5sive odor 9 /ock+s or %oes4 ,! inside ( ! /ock+s is du/$ ) ! p[d]1 & e week a teaspoonful is spr9kl$ into ! %oes4 ,,sk9 ,,gloss4 ,c>bonate ( potassium #a oz4 ,p[d]$ sp]maceti #a oz4 ,/>* p[d] #a lb4 ,b5zo9 oz4 ,oil ( bitt] almond #aej gra9s4 ,mix intimately & pres]ve 9 well-clos$ boxes4 ,= use1 /ir "s into wat]4 ,,kalod]m4 ,:eat fl\r #d lb4 ,almond bran #a lb4 ,orris root1 9 f9e p[d] #a lb4 ,extract ( rose #a p9t4 ,glyc]9 #f fl4 oz4 ,=m into a d\gh :i* is ?9n$ ) wat] & pa9t$ on ! sk94 ,,musk ,,pa/e 7,,= ,,wa%+ ,,! ,,h&s74 ,p[d]$ :ite soap #b lb4 ,orris root1 9 f9e p[d] lb4 ,/>* p[d] #a oz4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #aej gra9s4 ,t9cture ( musk #a fl4 oz4 ,glyc]9 #ab fl4 oz4 ,rub ! />* ) ! glyc]9 9 a mort> until !y are ?or\ghly mix$4 ,!n transf] ! mixture to a porcela9 capsule & apply a heat gradually rais$ to #bhd ,f4 7& n exce$+ #bij ,f471 /irr+ con/antly1 until ! />* granules are completely dissolv$1 & a transluc5t jelly is =m$4 ,!n gradually incorporate ) x ! p[d]$ soap & orris root1 & la/ly ! oils & t9cture4 ,,*apt] ,,xxvii4 ,,hair ,,cosmetics4 ,! numb] ( prep>ations us$ = ! c>e ( ! hair & be>d is consid]able4 ,un=tunately we are =c$ to admit t ! majority ( !m1 especially ^? said to /r5g!n ! scalp & to /imulate ! gr[? ( ! hair1 are utt]ly in]t4 ,?us f> we "k too little ( ! natural conditions ( gr[? ( ! hair to enable u to comp\nd rem$ies :i* w\ld actively aid ! ef=ts ( nature 9 ?is direction4 ,9 l mann] we _c speak ) approval ( ! prep>ations us$ to color ! hair1 ei!r f a *emico-sanit>y or f an /hetic /&po9t2 _m ( !m conta9 sub/ances :i* positively injure ! hair or imp>t to x an unnatural color :i* is detect$ at fir/ sight4 ,b a well-made cosmetic %\ld nev] produce ?is effect1 & nature mu/ be fai?fully imitat$ if ! prep>ation is to des]ve ! "n ( a cosmetic4 ,) ! s-call$ hair & be>d elixirs almo/ incr$ible sw9dles are p]petrat$2 ! practical p]fum]1 h[ev]1 _c advise aga9/ ! use ( su* wor?less prep>ations among 8 goods1 z !y are 9 daily dem&4 ,?is is ! reason :y we furni% ! =mulas = "s ( ^! secret prep>ations2 anybody at all famili> ) ! pr9ciples ( *emi/ry & physiology w recognize _! wor?lessness f _! composition4 ,! only articles ( practical value are ^? int5d$ = cleans+ ! hair1 = mak+ x s(t & glossy1 "s ( ! hair dyes1 & ! prep>ations = fix+ ! hair 9 c]ta9 positions4 ,a4 ,hair ,wa%es4 ,,eau ,d',,a?,,nes4 ,c>bonate ( potassium #b oz4 ,sassafras wood #h oz4 ,rose wat] #d qts4 ,orange-fl[] wat] #d qts4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,mac]ate ! +r$i5ts = "o mon?4 ,! c>bonate ( potassium & ! alcohol cleanse ! hair & remove ! fat4 ,aft] us+ ?is wa% & dry+ ! hair1 its fat & gloss %\ld be re/or$ by ! application ( a good pomade or hair oil4 ,,eau ,,glyc]9,e ,,aux ,,can?>ides4 ,ammonia wat] #c oz4 ,t9cture ( can?>ides 7see bel[7 #c oz4 ,rosem>y wat] #h qts4 ,glyc]9 #aj oz4 ,oil ( rose oz4 ,! t9cture ( can?>ides is made by mac]at+ #a oz4 ( p[d]$ ,spani% flies 7,lytta vesicatoria7 9 "o qu>t ( /rong alcohol4 ,! cau/ic ammonia has a simil> cleans+ effect z ! c>bonate ( potassium2 ! glyc]9 makes ! hair s(t2 ! entire prep>ation is a happy comb9ation1 z x cleanses & s(t5s ! hair at ! same "t4 ,,eau ,,de ,,fleurs2 ,,extrait ,v,g,,tal4 ,extract ( cassie #g oz4 ,extract ( jasm9e #g oz4 ,extract ( orange fl[] #g oz4 ,t9cture ( tonka #c oz4 ,extract ( tub]ose #g oz4 ,t9cture ( vanilla #c oz4 ,rose wat] #b qts4 ,alcohol #b qts4 ,,eau ,,de ,,lauri]4 ,c>bonate ( ammonium4 #e oz4 ,borax #e oz4 ,oil ( sweet bay oz4 ,oil ( rose #ge gra9s4 ,rose wat] #e qts4 ,,eau ,,de ,,rom>94 ,c>bonate ( potassium #a oz4 ,rosem>y wat] #d qts4 ,ess5ce ( rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,,eau ,,saponique4 ,rose wat] #e qts4 ,rondeletia p]fume #aj oz4 ,saffron #ge gra9s4 ,soap #a oz4 ,alcohol #aj oz4 ,boil ! f9ely divid$ soap & ! saffron ) "s di/ill$ wat] until ! soap is completely dissolv$1 add ! o!r +r$i5ts1 mix intimately1 & let /& = "s days to all[ ! co>s] p>ticles ( saffron to settle4 ,?is prep>ation has a p>ticul>ly h&some appe>ance2 9 cut-glass bottles x %[s a peculi> opalesc5ce or iridesc5ce2 9 transmitt$ light x repres5ts an almo/ p]fectly transp>5t1 saffron-yell[ liquid4 ,,eau ,,victoria4 ,ammonia wat] #a oz4 ,express$ oil ( almond #a oz4 ,oil ( mace #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( nutmeg #ge gra9s4 ,ess5ce ( rosem>y #ba oz4 ,rose wat] #d lb4 ,mix ! +r$i5ts1 except ! rose wat]1 by vigor\s agitation until a k9d ( emulsion results4 ,!n add ! rose wat] 9 small portions1 %ak+ aft] ea* addition4 ,,eau ,,de ,,roses4 ,rose wat] #e qts4 ,oil ( rose #ge gra9s4 ,dissolve 9 ,alcohol #c oz4 ,& add ,t9cture ( vanilla #a oz4 ,t9cture ( civet #aej gra9s4 ,b4 ,hair ,tonics4 ,,hair ,,re/or]4 ,t9cture ( can?>ides 7see above1 page #bha7 #a oz4 ,t9cture ( nut-galls #a oz4 ,extract ( musk #aej gra9s4 ,c>m9e #ge gra9s4 ,alcohol #c oz4 ,rose wat] #a qt4 ,t9cture ( nut-galls is made by mac]at+ #c oz4 ( p[d]$ nut-galls 9 "o qu>t ( alcohol4 ,! t9cture ( c9*ona 9 ! foll[+ =mula is prep>$ 9 ! same mann]4 ,,tanno-,,qu99e ,,hair ,,re/or]4 ,t9cture ( c9*ona #a oz4 ,t9cture ( nut-galls #a oz4 ,c>m9e #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( n]oli #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( nutmeg #ge gra9s4 ,alcohol #c oz4 ,rose wat] #a qt4 ,orange-fl[] wat] #a qt4 ,,baume ,,de ,,milan ,,p\r ,,les ,,*eveux4 ,l>d #a lb4 ,express$ oil ( almond #a lb4 ,sp]maceti #a oz4 ,c>m9e #aej gra9s4 ,t9cture ( can?>ides oz4 ,t9cture ( /orax #a oz4 ,t9cture ( tolu #a oz4 ,,be>d ,,produc]4 ,l>d #a lb4 ,express$ oil ( almond #a lb4 ,sp]maceti oz4 ,can?>ides oz4 ,c>m9e #aej gra9s4 ,oil ( b]gamot #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( lav5d] #ge gra9s4 ,oil ( santal #ge gra9s4 ,rub ! can?>ides ) ! c>m9e to ! f9e/ possible p[d]2 add ?is ) ! ess5tial oils to ! o!r +r$i5ts4 ,=mulas = simil> hair tonics might be giv5 to ! numb] ( sev]al hundr$s2 b we repeat :at we h said above--!y d n produce ! desir$ result4 ,:ile ! well-kn[n bay rum is us$ m z a face lotion or refre%+ sk9 tonic1 p>ticul>ly aft] %av+1 or :5 p]spir+ 9 hot wea!r1 yet x is also (t5 us$ z a wa% = ! scalp1 & is popul>ly believ$ to /imulate ! gr[? ( hair1 :i* is 9 reality n ! case4 ,we %all !re=e give a =mula = its prep>ation "h3 ,,bay ,,rum4 ,oil ( bay 7f ,myrcia acris7 #bdj gra9s4 ,oil ( orange 7big>ade7 #af gra9s4 ,oil ( ,pim5ta #af gra9s4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,wat] #be fl4 oz4 ,dissolve ! oils 9 ! alcohol & add ! wat]4 ,mix ! liquid ) ab\t #b oz4 ( precipitat$ phosphate ( lime1 & filt]4 ,x w improve by age4 ,g5u9e bay rum is import$ f ! ,we/ ,indies 7,/4 ,?omas1 etc471 :]e a crude k9d ( alcohol1 obta9$ 9 connection ) ! manufacture ( rum f molasses1 is di/ill$ ) ! fre% leaves ( ! bay-tree 7,myrcia acris74 ,! oil ( bay obta9$ f ?is mu/ n be conf\nd$ ) ! oil ( sweet bay4 ,! latt]1 z x appe>s 9 comm]ce1 is a crude mixture ( a fix$ ) a volatile oil4 ,,*apt] ,,xxviii4 ,,hair ,,dyes ,,& ,,depilatories4 ,! cu/om ( dye+ ! hair is univ]sal 9 ! ,ori5t2 9 ! ,occid5t1 h[ev]1 hair dyes are also frequ5tly us$1 namely1 to hide ! grayness ( ! hair1 sometimes to give ! hair a pref]r$ color4 ,hair dyes1 :i* are v num]\s1 may be divid$ into gr\ps--^? conta9+ ! dye-/uff ready =m$1 & ^? 9 :i* x is produc$ 9 ! hair by "s *emical process4 ,"s hair dyes conta9 sub/ances :i* 9 _! nature are decid$ly injuri\s to ! hair2 su* articles1 ( c\rse1 mu/ be disp5s$ ) because1 if frequ5tly employ$1 !y w\ld c]ta9ly lead to baldness4 ,we %all return to ?is subject 9 connection ) ! sev]al prep>ations4 ,reg>d+ ! use ( hair dyes1 especially ^? consi/+ ( two sep>ate portions1 we may /ate t x is necess>y to remove ! fat f ! hair be=e apply+ ! dye1 z ! *emicals 9 "q d n adh]e well to fat4 ,! hair %\ld be ?or\ghly wa%$ once or twice ) soap1 & dy$ :5 ne>ly dry4 ,:5 dye+ ! hair ! prep>ations %\ld fir/ be dilut$2 if ! color is n deep en\gh1 ! process is repeat$4 ,if ! prep>ation is us$ at once 9 a conc5trat$ =m1 a color may result :i* has no resemblance to any natural t9t2 hair meant to be black may assume a metallic blui%-black gloss4 ,a4 ,simple ,hair ,dyes4 ,,lead ,,hair ,,dye4 ,oxide ( lead #d lb4 ,quicklime #a lb4 ,calc9$ magnesia #a lb4 ,! +r$i5ts are rubb$ to a v f9e p[d] & = use are mix$ ) wat]1 appli$ to ! hair1 & left !re until ! desir$ t9t--light br[n to black--is obta9$1 f f\r to twelve h\rs1 :5 ! p[d] is remov$ by wa%+4 ,! lime by its cau/ic effect acts de/ructively on ! horny sub/ance ( ! hair4 ,moreov]1 all lead prep>ations )\t exception are v injuri\s to ! organism2 h5ce ?is hair dye is to be reject$1 especially z !re are h>mless prep>ations :i* produce ! same effect4 ,,k>si 7,,te9ture ,,ori5tale74 ,amb]gris #ge gra9s4 ,nut-galls #d lb4 ,iron fil+s #a oz4 ,copp] fil+s #cj gra9s4 ,musk #cj gra9s4 ,?is prep>ation1 :i* really comes f ! ,ori5t1 is made z foll[s3 ,r$uce ! nut-galls to a v f9e p[d] & roa/ !m 9 an iron pan "u cont9ual /irr+ until !y h become d>k br[n or almo/ black4 ,?is p[d] is triturat$ ) ! metals 9 f9e p[d] & ! aromatics1 & pres]v$ 9 a moi/ place4 ,= use1 "s ( ! p[d] is moi/5$ 9 ! palm ( ! h& & vigor\sly rubb$ into ! hair2 aft] a few days x assumes a deep black1 natural color4 ,! roa/+ *anges ! tann9 bodies conta9$ 9 ! galls into gallic & pyrogallic acids :i* =m deep black comb9ations ) ! metals1 & !mselves are easily trans=m$ into br[ni%-black sub/ances4 ,,kohol 7,,te9ture ,,*9oise74 ,gum arabic #a oz4 ,india ink #a oz4 ,rose wat] #a qt4 ,p[d] ! ink & ! gum1 & triturate small quantities ( ! p[d] ) rose wat] until a uni=m black liquid results1 :i* mu/ be free f granules4 ,?is liquid is plac$ 9 a bottle & ! re/ ( ! rose wat] add$4 ,kohol c be us$ only by p]sons ) black hair1 & is employ$ p>ticul>ly = dye+ ! eyebr[s4 ,z ! color+ matt] ( ?is prep>ation consi/s ( c>bon 9 a /ate ( f9e division1 ! dye is p]fectly h>mless4 ,,vegetable ,,dye4 ,silv] nitrate #b oz4 ,di/ill$ wat] #a qt4 ,?is hair dye produces a deep black color1 b _c be recomm5d$1 z x is injuri\s to ! hair4 ,its full effects appe> only aft] ! lapse ( "s h\rs4 ,,potassium ,,p]manganate4 ,potassium p]manganate #e oz4 ,di/ill$ wat] #b qts4 ,cry/all9e potassium p]manganate is soluble 9 wat]1 =m+ a d>k violet solution4 ,:5 br\ght 9 contact ) an organic sub/ance--pap]1 l951 sk91 horn1 hair--x is rapidly decolor$ & imp>ts to ! sub/ances nam$ a br[n t9t due to hydrat$ oxide ( manganese4 ,! hair is wa%$1 z /at$ above1 to remove ! fat1 & ! dilute solution appli$ ) a s(t bru%2 ! color is produc$ at once & accord+ to ! degree ( dilution ?is innocu\s prep>ation c be made to give any desir$ color f blond to v d>k br[n4 ,( c\rse1 ?is prep>ation c be us$ = ! be>d z well z ! hair4 ,all ! hair dyes "h & else:]e giv5 /a9 ! sk9 z well :]ev] !y come 9 contact ) x2 h5ce c>e %\ld be tak5 to protect ! sk9 dur+ _! application4 ,b4 ,d\ble ,hair ,dyes4 ,,silv] ,,hair ,,dyes4 ,?is & simil> hair dyes consi/ ( two prep>ations1 pres]v$ 9 bottles ,i4 & ,,ii42 ! latt]1 conta9+ ! silv] solution1 %\ld be ( d>k amb]-color$ or black glass1 z ! silv] salts are decompos$ by light4 ,x is utt]ly useless to employ blue glass = ?is purpose1 z ?is admits ! *emical rays ( light z easily z fl9t glass4 ,= use1 "s ( ! liquid f bottle ,i4 is p\r$ into a cup & ! hair is moi/5$ ) x by means ( a s(t bru%4 ,! liquid f bottle ,,ii4 is p\r$ into a second cup & appli$ ) ano!r bru%4 ,,br[n ,,dye4 ,i4 7,9 ,:ite ,bottle47 ,sulphide ( potassium #g oz4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,,ii4 7,9 ,d>k ,bottle47 ,silv] nitrate #d oz4 ,di/ill$ wat] #a qt4 ,,black ,,dye4 ,i4 7,9 ,:ite ,bottle47 ,sulphide ( potassium lb4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,,ii4 7,9 ,d>k ,bottle47 ,silv] nitrate #e oz4 ,di/ill$ wat] #a qt4 ,! sulphide ( potassium 7liv] ( sulphur7 appe>s 9 fragm5ts ( a liv]-br[n mass :i* readily dissolves 9 wat]4 ,! solution mu/ be filt]$ be=e be+ fill$ into bottles = sale1 &1 z x becomes turbid 9 ! air1 kept 9 well-clos$ vessels4 ,:5 ! two solutions are br\ght toge!r1 black sulphide ( silv] results & d>k5s ! hair4 ,aft] ! use ( ?is prep>ation a disagreeable odor ( rott5 eggs adh]es to ! hair1 b c be easily remov$ by wa%+1 especially ) "o ( ! previ\sly m5tion$ hair wa%es4 ,! silv] hair dye w be /ill bett] if ! liquid conta9$ 9 bottle ,,ii4 is made by dropp+ into ! solution1 "u cont9ual /irr+1 ammonia wat]1 until ! precipitate fir/ =m$ is aga9 dissolv$4 ,,melanog,,ne4 ,i4 7,9 ,d>k ,bottle47 ,silv] nitrate #aej gra9s4 ,di/ill$ wat] #b oz4 ,ammonia wat] #a oz4 ,,ii4 7,9 ,:ite ,bottle47 ,pyrogallic acid #ae gra9s4 ,alcohol ( #dj #a p9t4 ,,tann9 ,,hair ,,dye4 ,i4 7,9 ,:ite ,bottle47 ,p[d]$ nut-galls #ad oz4 ,wat] #a p9t4 ,rose wat] #a p9t4 ,boil ! nut-galls 9 ! wat]1 /ra9 ! boil+ liquid ?r\gh a ?ick clo? into ! rose wat]1 & fill ! /ill hot mixture into bottles :i* mu/ be imm$iately clos$4 7,x is ess5tial t ! liquid be hot dur+ ! fill+1 to gu>d aga9/ ! developm5t ( m\ld47 ,,ii4 7,9 ,d>k ,bottle47 ,silv] nitrate #e oz4 ,di/ill$ wat] #a qt4 ,add ammonia wat] to ! silv] solution until ! precipitate fir/ =m$ is aga9 dissolv$4 ,,eau ,d',,afrique4 ,i4 7,9 ,d>k ,bottle47 ,silv] nitrate #de gra9s4 ,di/ill$ wat] #c oz4 ,,ii4 7,9 ,:ite ,bottle47 ,sulphide ( sodium #abj gra9s4 ,di/ill$ wat] #c oz4 ,,cr9o*rom4 ,i4 7,9 ,:ite ,bottle47 ,pyrogallic acid #aej gra9s4 ,di/ill$ wat] #f oz4 ,alcohol #e oz4 ,,ii4 7,9 ,d>k ,bottle47 ,silv] nitrate #ahj gra9s4 ,ammonia wat] #b oz4 ,di/ill$ wat] #aj oz4 ,,copp] ,,hair ,,dye4 ,i4 7,9 ,:ite ,bottle47 ,f]rocyanide ( potassium #g oz4 ,di/ill$ wat] #a qt4 ,,ii4 7,9 ,d>k ,bottle47 ,sulphate ( copp] #g oz4 ,di/ill$ wat] #a qt4 ,add ammonia wat] to ! copp] solution until ! light blue precipitate fir/ =m$ aga9 dissolves to a ri*1 d>k blue liquid4 ,?is hair dye gives a d>k br[n color4 ,,eau ,,de ,,fonta9e ,,de ,,j\v5ce1 also call$ ,auricome & ,gold5 ,hair ,wat]1 is no dye1 b a blea*+ ag5t :i* *anges d>k hair to a light blond or gold5-yell[ color4 ,! prep>ation consi/s ( p]oxide ( hydrog51 a sub/ance possess+ m>k$ blea*+ prop]ties4 ,p]oxide ( hydrog51 or hydrog5 dioxide1 is at ! pres5t "t made on a l>ge scale by _m manufactur]s1 & readily obta9able 9 ! m>ket4 ,x w\ld !re=e sc>cely pay any "o to prep>e x himself unless he 7 out ( rea* ( ! usual *annels ( trade1 s t he c\ld n obta9 ! prep>ation 9 a fre% /ate4 ,nev]!less x may be useful to /ate h[ x is made4 ,b>ium dioxide 7or p]oxide71 :i* is a regul> article ( comm]ce1 & is a /able comp\nd :i* w keep = any l5g? ( "t if kept 9 tightly clos$ bottles1 is treat$ ) wat] until ! dioxide =ms ) x a ?91 smoo? milk4 ,?is is gradually add$ to dilute sulphuric acid1 cool$ ) ice or kept o!rwise z cold z possible1 until ! sulphuric acid is almo/ entirely neutraliz$4 ,! solution is !n all[$ to settle & ! cle> liquid drawn (f4 ,= blea*+ purposes1 ?is is pure en\gh4 ,only x mu/ be asc]ta9$ t ! am\nt ( free acid pres5t1 )\t :i* ! hydrog5 dioxide does n keep well1 is only small4 ,o!r acids c be us$ besides sulphuric1 b ! latt] is ! mo/ conv5i5t4 ,if an alkali is add$ to hydrog5 dioxide s t ! reaction becomes alkal9e1 x w decompose v rapidly4 ,ev5 "u ! mo/ favorable circum/ances 7:5 acid1 & kept 9 a cool place7 x w gradually det]iorate1 & f9ally be entirely conv]t$ into oxyg5 gas1 :i* escapes1 & pla9 wat]4 ,p]oxide or dioxide ( hydrog51 :5 appli$ to ! hair z a blea*+ ag5t1 mu/ be us$ 9 a dilute condition at fir/4 ,^? :o use x = ! fir/ "t %\ld always make prelim9>y trials ) ! liquid ^u odd bun*es ( hair 7su* z may at any "t be procur$ at hair-dress]s' %ops7 resembl+ t :i* is to be blea*$1 be=e actually apply+ x to ! latt]4 ,! hair to be blea*$ is depriv$ ( fat by wa%+ ) soap solution1 ! soap is wa%$ out ) wat]1 & ! p]oxide ( hydrog5 appli$4 ,,:isk] ,,dye4 ,i4 ,acetate ( lead #a oz4 ,di/ill$ wat] #a p9t4 ,,ii4 ,cau/ic potassa oz4 ,di/ill$ wat] #a qt4 ,dissolve ! acetate ( lead 78sug> ( lead07 9 ! w>m wat]1 filt] ! solution1 & add ammonia wat] until a precipitate ceases to =m4 ,collect ! precipitate on a filt]1 wa% x by p\r+ di/ill$ wat] ov] x eight or t5 times1 & :ile /ill moi/ introduce x into solution ,,ii4 ,/ir repeat$ly1 & aft] twelve h\rs leave ! vessel at re/ until ! solution has become cle>4 ,!n decant x f ! s$im5t1 :i* may be treat$ a second "t ) solution ,,ii4 ,= use1 ! be>d is wa%$ ) soap1 & comb$ ) a f9e rubb] comb dipp$ 9 ! solution4 ,c4 ,depilatories4 ,comb9ations ( sulphur ) ! alkal9e metals calcium1 b>ium1 & /rontium rapidly de/roy ! hair2 = ?is reason tann]s use ! 8gas lime0 f gas works1 :i* conta9s calcium sulphide1 = remov+ ! hair f hides4 ,all ! depilatories us$ cosmetically1 ev5 rhusma employ$ 9 ! ,ori5t = remov+ ! be>d1 owe _! activity to ! pres5ce ( calcium sulphide4 ,,calcium ,,sulphide has usually be5 laud$ z a p]fectly h>mless depilatory4 ,?is is a great mi/ake1 h[ev]1 s9ce x has (t5 done s]i\s h>m1 ?r\gh c>eless application by p]sons unfamili> ) its cau/ic & corrosive effects4 ,x is absolutely necess>y to protect ! sk9 aga9/ its action2 o!rwise sup]ficial irritation1 or ev5 de/ruction ( ! sk9 may result4 ,calcium sulphide _c be made by ! action ( sulphurett$ hydrog5 ^u lime4 ,x is usually made by heat+ at a l[ r$ heat1 9 a securely clos$ crucible1 an intimate mixture ( #ajj p>ts ( f9ely p[d]$ quicklime ) #ij p>ts ( precipitat$ sulphur4 ,mix toge!r3 ,calcium sulphide #d oz4 ,sug> #b oz4 ,wat] #b oz4 ,/>* p[d] #b oz4 ,oil ( lemon #cj gra9s4 ,oil ( pepp]m9t #aj gra9s4 ,! result+ mass mu/ be fill$ at once into an air-tight j>1 z ! calcium sulphide is decompos$ 9 ! atmosph]e4 ,= use1 "s ( ! mass is moi/5$ ) wat]1 pa9t$ on ! sk91 & wa%$ (f ) wat] aft] ?irty to =ty-five m9utes4 ,?is & all o!r depilatories act only tempor>ily1 t is1 !y de/roy only ! hair project+ above ! surface )\t kill+ ! hair bulbs2 aft] "s "t ! hair gr[s aga9 & ! prep>ation mu/ be reappli$4 ,,b>ium ,,sulphide1 :i* is likewise us$ z a depilatory1 is made by heat+ b>ium sulphate ) *>coal1 extract+ ! residue ) wat]1 & mix+ ! result+ product ) />* pa/e4 ,9 its effects b>ium sulphide equals ! prec$+ prep>ation1 b x decomposes m readily4 ,,depilatory ,,pa/e4 ,p[d]$ cau/ic lime #b lb4 ,/>* p[d] #b lb4 ,sodium sulphide #ba oz4 ,sodium sulphide is made by saturat+ /rong cau/ic soda solution ) sulphurett$ hydrog54 ,! o!r +r$i5ts are add$ to ! solution ( sodium sulphide4 ,,rhusma is a depilatory made by mix+ p[d]$ quicklime 7unslak$7 ) orpim5t 7yell[ sulphide ( ars5ic74 ,take (3 ,quicklime #d lb4 ,orpim5t #aj oz4 ,mix intimately & pres]ve ! p[d] 9 tightly clos$ vessels4 ,= use1 take "s ( ! p[d]1 r$uce x to a ?9 pa/e ) wat]1 & apply x to ! place ^u :i* ! hairs are to be de/roy$4 ,ow+ to its poison\sness & ! de/ructive effects ( ! cau/ic lime on ! sk91 ?is prep>ation %\ld nev] be employ$ 9 cosmetic p]fum]y4 ,,*apt] ,,xxix4 ,,wax ,,pomades1 ,,b&ol9es1 ,,& ,,brilliant9es4 ,! s-call$ wax pomades1 /ick pomatum1 & b&ol9es s]ve to /iff5 ! hair & are frequ5tly employ$ by hair dress]s4 ,! =m] two articles possess "s adhesive p[] by :i* !y fa/5 ! hair toge!r2 b&ol9es are mucilag9\s fluids :i* g5]ally conta9 bassor9 7or vegetable mucilage pres5t 9 tragacan?71 qu9ce se$s1 etc4 ,a4 ,wax ,pomades4 ,,/ick ,,pomatum4 ,?is is usually =m$ into oval or r\nd /icks :i* are wrapp$ 9 t9 foil4 ,!y are color$ & p]fum$ z desir$4 ,! ord9>y v>ieties are3 :ite1 = light blond hair1 :i* is left uncolor$2 p9k1 color$ ) c>m9e2 br[n1 color$ ) umb]2 & black1 color$ ) bone black4 ,! color+ matt]s are always rubb$ up ) oil4 ,r$ pomatum may be color$ ) alkanet root1 :i* is mac]at$ = "s "t ) ! melt$ fat4 ,! base ( ^! prep>ations consi/s (3 ,l>d #d lb4 ,tall[ #ab lb4 ,wax #f lb4 ,! mass may be made h>d] or s(t] by increas+ or dim9i%+ ! wax4 ,! p]fumes g5]ally us$ are oils ( b]gamot1 lemon1 clove1 & ?yme1 ) an addition ( "s ,p]u balsam4 ,b4 ,be>d ,wax4 ,,be>d ,,wax 7,,cire ,,m\/a*es74 ,turp5t9e #b lb4 ,express$ oil ( almond #b lb4 ,wax #f lb4 ,violet pomade #b lb4 ,p]u balsam #a lb4 ,oil ( clove #a oz4 ,oil ( santal oz4 ,oil ( c9namon oz4 ,,hung>ian ,,be>d ,,wax 7,,cire ,,m\/a*e ,,hongroise47 ,ca/ile soap1 p[d]$ #c oz4 ,mucilage ( acacia #aj oz4 ,:ite wax #i oz4 ,glyc]9 #c oz4 ,oil ( b]gamot #bj drops4 ,oil ( lemon #aj drops4 ,oil ( rose #aj drops4 ,rub ! p[d]$ soap ) ! mucilage1 previ\sly dilut$ ) n9e ounces ( wat]1 !n add ! wax & glyc]91 & heat ! mass on a wat]-ba?1 /irr+ con/antly1 until x becomes homog5e\s4 ,la/ly add ! oils1 & p\r ! mass into suitable m\lds4 ,= br[n or black wax ! correspond+ color is add$4 ,! mass is =m$ into /icks ! ?ickness ( a lead p5cil4 ,c4 ,b&ol9es4 ,,b&ol9e ,,aux ,,am&es4 ,tragacan? #ad oz4 ,rose wat] #h qts4 ,oil ( bitt] almond oz4 ,cru% ! tragacan?1 place x 9 ! rose wat]1 & leave x at re/ 9 a w>m spot1 /irr+ occasionally1 until ! tragacan? has swoll5 to a slimy mass4 ,press x fir/ ?r\gh a co>se & !n ?r\gh a f9] clo?1 add a little c>m9e & ! oil ( bitt] almond4 ,,b&ol9e ,,la ,,rose4 ,?is is made l ! prec$+1 only sub/itut+ #a oz4 ( oil ( rose = ! oil ( bitt] almond4 ,o!r v>ieties may be produc$ by ! use ( diff]5t odors4 ,d4 ,brillant9es4 ,"u v>i\s names prep>ations are plac$ on ! m>ket :i* r5d] ! hair bo? s(t & glossy4 ,! *ief con/itu5t ( all ^! articles is glyc]9 :i* is p]fum$ accord+ to ta/e & /a9$ r$di% or violet4 ,z _m anil9e colors easily dissolve 9 glyc]91 !y are g5]ally us$ = ?is purpose4 ,=m]ly1 be=e glyc]9 0 obta9able 9 suffici5t purity1 brillant9es 7 *iefly made ( ca/or oil dissolv$ 9 alcohol1 b aside f ! fact t glyc]9 is *eap] ?an ca/or oil ) alcohol1 ! =m] is pref]able1 z alcohol injures ! hair4 ,,brillant9e4 ,glyc]9 #h lb4 ,extract ( jasm9e 7or o!r fl[]7 #b qts4 ,,ol,,olisse4 ,glyc]9 #d lb4 ,ca/or oil #d lb4 ,oil ( b]gamot oz4 ,oil ( lemon oz4 ,oil ( n]oli #aej gra9s4 ,,*apt] ,,xxx4 ,,! ,,colors ,,us$ ,,9 ,,p]fum]y4 ,9 p]fumes 9 :i* next to ! odor1 ! appe>ance is ( importance1 ! colors play a prom95t "p4 ,9 h&k]*ief p]fumes1 any accid5tal color pres5t is an ob/acle1 z x w\ld cause /a9s on ! mat]ial4 ,h5ce ! aim is to obta9 ! p]fumes colorless or--a highly priz$ quality 9 f9e articles--!y receive a pale gre5 color :i* disappe>s on dry+4 ,extract ( cassie possesses ?is color1 & 9 _m cases ?is extract is add$ to p]fumes = ! purpose ( giv+ !m ?is favorite color4 ,reg>d+ ! colors employ$ = o!r articles--emulsions1 pomades1 soaps1 etc4--x may be /at$ z a g5]al rule t a prep>ation nam$ aft] a c]ta9 fl[] mu/ possess ! color ( ! latt]4 ,h5ce all p]fumes nam$ aft] ! rose %\ld be rose r$2 violet p]fumes1 violet2 ^? be>+ ! "n ( ! lily or :ite rose mu/ be colorless1 etc4 ,! be/ = articles conta9+ alcohol or glyc]9 are ! anil9e colors1 bo? on acc\nt ( _! beautiful appe>ance & _! extraord9>y /a9+ p[]4 ,b an insurm\ntable ob/acle is met ) 9 _! use = articles conta9+ animal or vegetable fats :i* rapidly de/roy _m anil9e colors4 ,:5 a rose pomade is color$ ) anil9e r$1 ! f9e delicate t9t h>dly la/s ?ree or f\r weeks & *anges into dirty gray4 ,! same is true ( anil9e violet 9 violet pomade1 etc4 ,!re=e1 articles conta9+ fat mu/ receive o!r dye-/uffs1 & 9 ! foll[+ pages we briefly enum]ate ^? we h f\nd mo/ appropriate2 b x mu/ be obs]v$ t all poison\s dyes mu/ be absolutely exclud$4 ,comm]cial anil9e colors =m]ly (t5 conta9$ ars5ic2 at ! pres5t "t o!r processes are usually employ$ = _! prep>ation1 n involv+ ! employm5t ( ars5i\s acid4 ,,yell[ ,,colors4 ,saffron4 ,! /igmata ( ,crocus sativus conta9 a bright yell[ or orange yell[ color+ matt] :i* is easily extract$ by alcohol1 petroleum e!r1 or fat4 ,we pref] petroleum e!r 9 :i* ! f9ely p[d]$ saffron is mac]at$1 ! great] portion ( ! solv5t be+ di/ill$ (f1 & ! re/ ( ! solution is all[$ to evaporate1 :5 ! pure color+ matt] is left & c be easily mix$ ) fat4 ,! color+ matt] may also be obta9$ by mac]at+ ! saffron 9 melt$ l>d or 9 olive oil4 ,jonquille ,pomade4 ,g5u9e jonquille pomade1 f ,n>cissus ,jonquilla1 has a h&some yell[ color :i* is d]iv$ f ! d>k yell[ fl[]s2 = ?is reason small quantities ( jonquille pomade are sometimes us$ = color+ pomades = ! hair4 ,curcuma or ,turm]ic4 ,curcuma or turm]ic root conta9s a v beautiful yell[ color+ matt] :i* is easily extract$ by alcohol or petroleum e!r4 ,we prep>e x 9 ! same mann] z /at$ "u ! head ( saffron4 ,curcuma color _c be us$ = articles conta9+ free alkali1 :i* *anges x to br[n4 ,palm ,oil4 has naturally a f9e yell[ color1 :i* x imp>ts also to soaps prep>$ f x2 b ! color fades completely :5 ! wet soap is expos$ to ! air4 ,,r$ ,,colors4 ,c>m9e4 ,?is magnific5t1 ?\gh v exp5sive color is obta9$ f ! co*9eal insect1 ,coccus cacti4 ,if good c>m9e is n available1 a sub/itute may be made1 = ! purpose ( color+ p]fum]y articles1 by p[d]+ co*9eal1 treat+ x ) dilute cau/ic ammonia1 &1 aft] add+ "s alum solution1 expos+ x to ! air & direct sunlight1 :5 ! color+ matt] sep>ates 9 h&some r$ flakes1 :i* are collect$ & dri$4 ,c>?am9 ,r$4 ,saffl[]1 ! blossoms ( ,c>?amus t9ctorius1 conta9s two color+ matt]s1 yell[ & r$4 ,! =m] is extract$ ) wat] f ! dri$ fl[]s1 & ! residue is treat$ ) a weak soda solution :i* dissolves ! r$ color+ matt]4 ,:5 ?is solution is gradually dilut$ ) acetic acid1 ! dye is precipitat$1 & aft] dry+ =ms a mass ) a gre5i% metallic lu/re4 ,?is1 :5 r$uc$ to p[d]1 is us$ = r\ge en feuilles or r\ge en tasses4 ,?is color+ matt] c also be prep>$ by introduc+ into ! soda solution "s clean :ite cotton on :i* ! color is precipitat$ & c !n be extract$ ) alcohol4 ,alkanet4 ,?is root1 :i* is readily obta9$ 9 ! m>ket1 conta9s a beautiful r$ color+ matt] :i* c be extract$ ) petroleum e!r1 b is also easily soluble 9 fats 7melt$ l>d or w>m oil74 ,ev5 small am\nts ( x produce a h&some rose r$ & l>g] quantities a d>k purple4 ,= pomades1 hair oils1 & emulsions alkanet root is ! be/ color+ matt]1 z x /a9s !m rapidly1 is la/+1 & *eap4 ,rhatany4 ,rhatany root furni%es a r$di%-br[n color+ matt] :i* is soluble 9 alcohol & is extract$ ) x f ! comm9ut$ root1 especially = too? t9ctures & m\? wa%es4 ,= ! same purpose use may also be made ( r$ santal wood & ,p]nambuco wood :i* likewise yield to alcohol1 besides a/r+5ts1 beautiful colors :i* are v suitable = su* prep>ations4 ,,gre5 ,,colors4 ,*lorophyll4 ,! gre5 color+ matt] ( leaves is easily extract$ f !m1 :5 bruis$1 ) alcohol1 & is left beh9d aft] ! evaporation ( ! solv5t4 ,"s p[d]s :i* are to h a gre5 color are mix$ directly ) dri$ & f9ely divid$ bright gre5 leaves su* z sp9a*1 cel]y1 p>sley leaves1 etc4 ,= soap x is cu/om>y to use a mixture ( yell[ & blue :i* toge!r produce a gre5 color4 ,take a yell[ soap1 melt x1 & add to x ! f9e/ p[d] ( smalt or ultram>9e until ! desir$ t9t is obta9$4 ,indigo-c>m9e _c be us$1 z x w\ld imp>t a blue color to ! sk94 ,,blue ,,colors4 ,= _m prep>ations smalt or ultram>9e is employ$1 b ^! colors are insoluble4 ,! only soluble blue colors are anil9e blue & indigo-c>m9e2 ! latt] has a beautiful & int5se color1 b is suitable only = pomades & n = soaps because1 z /at$ above1 x w\ld /a9 ! sk94 ,,violet is produc$ by a mixture ( r$ & blue 9 due proportions4 ,,br[n is produc$ by c>amel1 :i* is made by heat+ sug> 9 an iron pot until x *anges into a deep black mass :i* is br[n only 9 ?9 ?reads4 ,?is color dissolves easily 9 wat] 7n 9 alcohol7 & is v suitable = soaps4 ,,black is produc$ by f9ely divid$ vegetable or bone black4 ,liquids are color$ ) ,india ink :i* rema9s susp5d$ = a long "t ow+ to ! f9e division ( ! c>bon4 ,,*apt] ,,xxxi4 ,,! ,,ut5sils ,,us$ ,,9 ,,! ,,toilet4 ,9 ! toilet1 besides combs & hair bru%es1 use is made ( p[d] puffs1 too? bru%es1 & ba? sponges4 ,p[d] puffs are made f swan sk9s1 b %\ld be us$ r = ! ev5 division ( ! p[d] or pa9t ?an = its application4 ,= ! latt] purpose a piece ( s(t glove or *amois lea!r is be/4 ,! comm]cial too? bru%es are almo/ )\t exception objectionable ow+ to ! /iffness ( ! bri/les4 ,a suitable too? bru% %\ld be made ( v s(t1 flexible bri/les1 le/ x we> away ! enamel4 ,p>ticul> att5tion %\ld be devot$ to ba? sponges4 ,_! value is proportionate to ! f95ess ( ! pores1 _! s(tness & ela/icity1 & _! sph]ical %ape4 ,crude sponges are be/ cleans$ by be+ plac$ 9 dilute hydro*loric acid :i* dissolves ! calc>e\s p>ticles adh]+ to !m4 ,!y are blea*$ z foll[s4 ,free !m z f> z possible f s& & o!r =eign matt]s4 ,!n wa% !m ?or\ghly ) wat]1 & press !m4 ,next introduce !m into a solution ( p]manganate ( potassium conta9+ "o ounce ( ! salt 9 a gallon2 leave !m 9 ?is liquid two or ?ree m9utes2 !n take !m out1 express ! liquid 7:i* c be sev]al times us$ ov] aga971 wa% !m ) wat] until no m violet-t9t$ liquid runs f !m1 & !n imm]se !m 9 a solution ( "o "p ( hyposulphite ( sodium 9 tw5ty p>ts ( wat]1 to :i* imm$iately be=e dipp+ ! sponges "o "p ( hydro*loric acid has be5 add$4 ,:5 ! sponge's are :ite1 remove !m & wa% !m ?or\ghly ) wat]4 ,aft] prolong$ use1 ba? sponges lose _! ela/icity & s(tness4 ,^! prop]ties c be re/or$ by dipp+ ! sponges into a mixture ( "o "p by measure ( glyc]9 & eight p>ts ( wat]1 press+ out ! excess ( ! liquid & all[+ !m to dry4 ,! small quantity ( glyc]9 :i* !y conta9 prev5ts _! h>d5+4 ,,index4 la mode p]fume1 #ahf ,absorption1 #aja ,acacia f>nesiana1 #bf ,acetic e!r1 #hj ,acid1 acetic1 #gf b5zoic1 #gd c>bonic1 app>atus1 #aab c>bonic1 = absorption ( odors1 #ajb p]fumes1 #bjb pyrogallic1 #hd salicylic1 pres]vation ( fats by1 #gi ,acorus ,calamus1 #ej ,adult]ation ( ess5tial oils ) alcohol1 #add ( ess5tial oils ) fix$ oils1 #add ( ess5tial oils ) o!r ess5tial oils1 #adc ( ess5tial oils ) p>aff91 sp]maceti1 or wax1 #ade ,adult]ations ( ess5tial oils & _! recognition1 #aci ,alcohol1 #fc absolute1 manufacture (1 #fh amyl1 #ga p]c5tage tables (1 #gj s\rce (1 influ5ce on p]fumes1 #gb ,alcoholomet]1 ,tralles'1 #fi ,alkanet1 #bii ,alloxan1 #gc1 #bgd ,allspice1 #ba ,allspice1 ess5ce (1 #aei ,almond & honey pa/e1 #bcd balls1 #bdd cold-cream1 #bdc cream1 #bcj meal1 #bcd pa/e1 simple1 #bcc ,almonds1 bitt]1 #bd sweet1 #ej ,aloysia citriodora1 #ed ,am&es amres1 #bd ,am&es d\ces1 #ej ,am&9e1 #bcj ,amb]gris1 #eg t9cture (1 #aea ,ambra grisea1 #eg ,ammonia1 #gc c>bonate (1 #gd ,ammoniacal p]fumes1 #aii ,amygdala am>a1 #bd dulcis1 #ej ,amyl alcohol1 #ga ,ananas1 #dd ,anci5ts1 p]fum]y among !1 #b ,&ropogon citratus1 #cj1 #ce lanig]1 #cj muricatus1 #cj1 #ed ,n>dus1 #bi ,s*o5an?us1 #cj ,ane?1 #ca ,ane?um graveol5s1 #ca ,animal sub/ances us$ 9 p]fum]y1 #eg ,anise1 #ba ,anti-,odor91 #bgh ,apple e!r1 #ha ,aromatic sub/ances1 division (1 accord+ to _! orig91 #h sub/ances 9 g5]al1 #f sub/ances1 relative /r5g? (1 #g sub/ances1 special *>act]i/ics (1 #aah sub/ances1 vegetable1 *emical con/itution (1 #ae sub/ances1 vegetable1 employ$ 9 p]fum]y1 #bj v9eg>1 #bjc wat]s1 #aac1 #afg ,aspic1 #ce ,att> ( rose1 #acc ,auricome1 #bia ,badiane1 #dh ,baguettes enc5soires1 #baf ,bais]s du pr9temps1 #agj ,balm1 #bb ,balsamod5dron ,kafal1 #da ,myrrha1 #ci ,balsamum p]uvianum1 #dc tolutanum1 #ea ,b&ol9es1 #bif ,b>ium sulphide1 #bic ,baume de ,milan p\r les *eveux1 #bhc du ,pr\1 #dc de ,tol\1 #ea ,bay rum1 #bhd sweet1 #bb ,we/ ,indian1 #bb ,be>d produc]1 #bhd wax1 #bie ,be>'s-grease pomade1 #bej ,beef-m>r[ pomade1 #bea ,b5jo91 #bc ,b5z5e1 #ff ,b5z91 #ff ,b5zoat$ oil1 #bee ,b5zoic acid1 #gd acid1 sublim$1 manufacture (1 #ge ,b5zo91 #bc & b5zoic acid1 use (1 = prev5t+ rancidity ( fats1 #gi pomade1 #bdh t9cture (1 #aea ,b5zol1 #ff ,b]gamot1 #bd ess5ce (1 #aeb ,bisamkrn]1 #ch ,bismu?1 subnitrate (1 #hf ,bismu? :ite1 #hf1 #bga ,bisulphide ( c>bon1 #ff ,bitt] almond1 ess5ce (1 #aeb almond milk1 #bch almonds1 #bd ,black color1 #cja ,blanc de bismu?1 #hf de p]les1 #hf1 #bgh franais1 #bga p]le liquide1 #bga ,bleu vgetal p\r les ve9es1 #bgc ,blossom pomade1 #bej ,blue colors1 #cjj ,bois de camphre1 #be de cdre1 #bg de rose1 #de ,borat$ too? p[d]1 #bfb too? t9cture1 #bff ,borax1 #ge ,b\quet la m>*ale1 #ahf cosmopolite1 #ahj c\rt1 #agc d',&orre1 #aga de ,*ypre1 #agb de fleurs1 #agb de flore1 #agf de la c\r1 #aga de l',alhambra1 #afi de l'am\r1 #afi de ,/amb\l1 #aid d',e/]hazy1 #agc de ,virg9ie1 #aie des *asseurs1 #aga des dlices1 #agb d',irl&e1 #agg du ,bosphore1 #aga du ,japon1 #agh heliotrope1 #aid leap-ye>1 #ahd ,royal ,horse-,gu>d's1 #agg ,b\quets1 manufacture (1 #afg ,brillant9es1 #bif ,bromelia ,ananas1 #dd ,br[n color1 #cja ,bruges ribbons1 #bai ,buck+ham fl[]s1 #agj ,ca*\s aromatises1 #bfc ,cajuput leaves1 #be ,calamus1 ess5ce (1 #aeb ,calcium sulphide1 #bib ,camphor1 #aba balls1 #bda ,camphor cold-cream1 #bdj ice1 #bdj wood1 #be ,camphorat$ *alk too? p[d]1 #bfb ,cologne wat]1 #bff ,canelle1 #bg ,can?>idal pomade1 #bdh ,can?>ides1 t9cture (1 #bha ,c>amel1 #cja ,c>bon1 bisulphide (1 #ff ,c>bonate ( ammonia1 #gd ,c>bonic acid app>atus1 #aab acid = absorption ( odors1 #ajb ,c>m9e1 #bii ,c>?am9 r$1 #bii ,c>um ,c>vi1 #be ,c>vi1 #be ,c>yophylli1 #cj ,c>yophyllus aromaticus1 #cj ,casc>illa b>k1 #bf gratissima1 #bf ,cassia1 #bh ,cassie1 #bf1 #bh extract (1 #aea ,ca/or1 ,ca/oreum1 #eh t9cture (1 #aeb ,ca/or-oil pomade1 #beb ,c$>1 ess5ce (1 #aeb p]fume1 #agd t9cture (1 #aeb wood1 #bg ,cdre du ,libanon p]fume1 #agd ,c$rus libanotica1 #bg ,ceylon sa*et p[d]1 #bji ,*alk1 prep>$1 manufacture (1 #bfa ,v5etian1 #bga ,*app$ sk91 lotion =1 #bge ,*>act]i/ics1 special1 ( aromatic sub/ances1 #aah ,*>coal objectionable z a too? p[d]1 #bei too? p[d]1 #bfc ,*eiran?us ,*eiri1 #ee ,*emical con/itution ( vegetable aromatic sub/ances1 #ae products us$ = ! prep>ation ( p]fumes1 #fh products us$ 9 p]fum]y1 #fc ,*emicals us$ = ! extraction ( aromatic sub/ances1 #fd ,*]ry salve1 #bdc ,*]rylaurel leaves1 #bi ,*vre-feuille1 #cc ,*9a rose p]fume1 #aib roses1 extract (1 #afa ,*9ese gelat91 #hj too? p[d]1 #bfd ,*loral m\? wa%1 #bfg ,*lor(orm1 #fe ,*lorophyll1 #cjj ,c9*ona b>k too? p[d]1 #bfb pomade1 #bea ,c9namomum1 #bg ,c9namomum ,culilavan ,nees1 #ca zeylanicum1 #bh ,c9namon1 #bg ,*9ese1 #bh t9cture (1 #afe ,circassian pomade1 #bdh ,cire m\/a*es1 #bie ,citron1 #bh fl[]s1 #bi ,citronella1 #bi ess5ce (1 #aec ,citrus ,aurantium1 #da ,b]gamia1 #bd limetta1 #ce ,limonum1 #ce m$ica1 #bh vulg>is1 #da ,civet1 #fb t9cture (1 #afe ,civetta1 #fb ,cl\s de gir(le1 #cj ,clove1 #cj ess5ce (1 #aeg ,cold-creams & lip salves1 #bch ,cologne cold-cream1 #bdb wat]1 #ahj ,colors us$ 9 p]fum]y1 #hg1 #big ,concombre1 #ca ,convall>ia p]fume1 #agb ,convolvulus floridus1 #de scop>ius1 #de ,cortex ,aurantii1 #da ,casc>ill1 #bf ,culilavan1 #ca ,cosmetic p]fum]y1 #bbe1 #bfi ,cosmetics1 hair1 #bhj sk91 & face lotions1 #bgj sk91 r$1 #bgb sk91 :ite1 #bga ,c\ronne de fleurs1 #agc ,c\rt b\quet1 #agc ,craie v5ti5ne1 #bga ,crme de ,cologne1 #bdb de molle1 #bea de ric9e1 #beb de vanille1 #bec de violettes1 #bdd ,cr9o*rom1 #bij ,crisp m9t1 #ch ,croton ,elut]ia1 #bf ,cry/alliz$ oil1 #bdi ,cucumb]1 #ca cold-cream1 #bdb extract (1 #aed milk1 #bcg ,cucumis sativus1 #ca ,culilaban b>k1 #ca ,cum9um ,cym9um1 #bf ,curcuma1 #bih ,currant1 black1 #bg ,cuscus1 #cj1 #ed ,cuttlefi%-bone too? p[d] #bfc ,cyprian sa*et p[d]1 #bji ,d&elion milk1 #bcg ,depilatories1 #bib ,dian?us c>yophyllus1 #dd ,dill1 #ca ,dipt]yx odorata1 #eb ,displacem5t1 #aaa ,di/illation1 #ib fractional1 #adc ,div9e pomade1 #bda ,dog-rose p]fume1 #aic ,d\ble pomades1 #bdi ,drop presses1 #ij ,dry p]fumes1 #bjg ,dye1 black1 #bhh br[n1 #bhh vegetable1 #bhg ,eau ana?r9e1 #bfe d',afrique1 #bij d'anges1 #ci d',a?nes1 #bha de ,b]l91 #agj de ,botot1 #bfe de ,cologne1 #ahj de fleurs1 #bha de fonta9e de j\v5ce1 #bia de lauri]1 #bhb de lav&e mille fleurs1 #ahd de lav&e ambre1 #ahc de lav&e d\ble1 #ahd de ,leipsic1 #ahd de ,lisbonne1 #ahe de ,luce1 #bjb de ,mialhe1 #bfg de ,milan1 #bff de mille fleurs1 #ahf de mille fleurs palm>ose1 #ahg de p]les1 #bgf de rom>91 #bhb de rose triple1 #afj de roses1 #bhc de salvia1 #bfh de violettes1 #bfh du ,portugal1 #aij glyc]9e aux can?>ides1 #bha hongroise1 #aie japonaise1 #agh l5ticuleuse1 #bge saponique1 #bhb ,victoria1 #bhb ,eaux aromatises1 #aac enc5soires1 #bbj ,ecorce culilaban1 #ca d'oranges1 #da ,eglant9e p]fume1 #aic ,elais gu9e5sis1 #db ,eld] fl[]s1 #cb ,emulsions1 #bbg1 #bcj ,enc5s1 #dj ,enfleurage1 #aja ,esprit de roses triple1 #afa ,ess4 b\quet1 #age ,ess5ce de roses blan*es1 #afb ,ess5ce de roses jaunes1 #afa de roses jumelles1 #afb de /yrax1 #afb def9ition (1 #aej des b\quets1 #age mean+ ( ! ,fr5* t]m1 #ad ( mirbane1 #hc ,ess5ces d5tifrices1 #bfe directions = mak+1 #aej employ$ 9 p]fum]y1 #adf fruit1 #hb removal ( fat f1 #adi ,ess5tial oil a misnom]1 #ad oils1 adult]ation (1 ) alcohol1 #add oils1 adult]ation (1 ) fix$ oils1 #add oils1 adult]ation (1 ) o!r ess5tial oils1 #adc oils1 adult]ation (1 ) p>aff91 sp]maceti1 or wax1 #ade oils1 adult]ations (1 & _! recognition1 #aci oils1 *emical & physical prop]ties (1 #af oils1 f9al purification (1 #aab oils1 oxyg5ation (1 #ah oils1 pres]vation (1 #ai oils1 table %[+ ! approximate d5sity1 boil+ & congeal+ po9ts (1 #ada oils1 yield (1 #aac ,e/]hazy b\quet1 #agc ,e!r1 #fd acetic1 #hj apple1 #ha nitr\s1 #ha nan?ic1 #ga pe>1 #ha petroleum1 #fe p9e-apple1 #ha ,e!rs1 fruit1 #ha1 #hb ,eug5ia ,pim5ta1 #ba ,excelsior extraction app>atus1 #ajg ,extract1 def9ition (1 #aej ,extraction1 #ajc app>atus1 #ajc et seq4 ( aromatic sub/ances1 *emicals us$ =1 #fd ( odors1 #hg ,extracts1 directions = mak+1 #aej employ$ 9 p]fum]y1 #adf ,extrait d'am&e1 #aeb d'ambre1 #afi d'ambregris1 #aea d'ambrette1 #aeb de baume de tol\1 #afb de b5jo91 #aea de b]gamotte1 #beb de bois de cdre1 #aeb de canelle1 #afe de cassie1 #aea de ca/oreum1 #aeb de cdre1 #aeb de *vre-feuille1 #aec1 #agf de civette1 #afe de cl\s de gir(les1 #aeg de concombre1 #aed de fleurs d'oranges1 #aeh de gaul?rie1 #afe de gir(l1 #aee1 #ahd de glaeul1 #aeb d'glant9e1 #afa de hliotrope1 #aed1 #agf de jasm91 #aee de jonquille1 #aeg1 #agi de lav&e1 #aee de lilas1 #aec1 #agd de limon1 #aef de lys1 #aef1 #ahe de magnolia1 #aef1 #ahe de m5!1 #aef de mignonette1 #aei de musc1 #aef1 #ahh de myrte1 #aeg1 #ahi de n>cisse1 #aeg1 #ahi d'enc5s1 #afe de nroli1 #aeh de pat*\li1 #aeh1 #aia de ,pr\1 #aei de pim5t1 #aei de pois de s5teur1 #aei1 #aij de rosa ?a1 #afb de rose1 #aei de roses m\sseuses1 #afa de roses triple1 #afa de santal1 #afb de ,s*o5an!1 #aec de tonka1 #afc de tub]ose1 #afc de vanille1 #afc de v]ve9e1 #afc1 #aif de vtiv]1 #afe de violette1 #afc de volcam]ia1 #afd d'iris1 #afc d'oeillet1 #aeh1 #aij d'oliban1 #afe vgtal1 #bha ,fab ,tonk1 #eb ,face lotions1 #bgd ,f>9e d'am&es1 #bcd de pi/a*es1 #bce ,fats1 #gg purification (1 #gg1 #bdf rancidity (1 prev5tion (1 #gi ,f5nel1 #cb ,f5\il1 #cb ,f]ula ,sumbul1 #di ,fves de ,tonka1 #eb ,field-fl[] sa*et p[d]1 #bji ,fiori d',italia1 #agd ,fleurs de citron1 #bi de mai p]fume1 #agb de ,montpelli]1 #ahg des *amps1 #ahh d'oranges1 #da sol/iciales1 #aid ,flor5t9e flasks1 #if ,flores ,aurantii1 #da ,citri1 #bi ,lonic]1 #cc ,sambuci1 #cb ,syr+1 #cf ,florida p]fume1 #age ,fl[]s ( ! ,isle ( ,wight p]fume1 #aih ,fniculum vulg>e1 #cb ,folia ,cajuputi1 #be ,lauroc]asi1 #bi ,=e/-breeze p]fume1 #aig ,=mulas = h&k]*ief p]fumes1 #afi = pomades & hair oils1 #bdg = sa*ets1 #bji = toilet v9eg>s1 #bjd ,fractional di/illation1 #adc ,frangipanni sa*et p[d]1 #baj ,freckle lotion1 #bge milk1 #bgd ,fr5* fl[] f>ms1 annual production (1 #aj :ite1 #bga ,fructus ,citri1 #bh ,fruit ess5ces1 #hb e!rs1 #hj1 #hb ,fumigat+ pap]1 #bah pa/ils1 #bad p5cils1 #baf p[d]s1 #bbj ribbons1 #bai wat]s & v9eg>s1 #bbj ,fumigation1 p]fumes us$ =1 #bad ,funnel1 sep>at+1 #hi1 #ih ,fusel oils1 #ga ,g>l& ( fl[]s p]fume1 #agc ,gaul!ria procumb5s1 #ee ,gaul?rie1 #ee ,gelat91 ,*9ese1 #hj ,g]anium1 #cb ess5ce (1 #aed ,g+] grass1 #cj ,gir(l1 #ee ,glyc]91 #hb cold-cream1 #bdj cosmetic use (1 #bbg cream1 #bca emulsions1 #bca jelly1 #bcb ,gold5 hair wat]1 #bia ,gra9s d'ambrette1 #ch ,gre5 colors1 #cjj ,gum wax1 #di ,hair cosmetics1 #bhj dye1 copp]1 #bij dye1 lead1 #bhf dyes & depilatories1 #bhe dyes1 d\ble1 #bhh dyes1 silv]1 #bhh simple1 #bhf oils & pomades1 #bde oils1 =mulas =1 #bed re/or]1 #bhc tonics1 #bhc wa%es1 #bha ,h&k]*ief p]fumes1 =mulas =1 #afi p]fumes1 manufacture (1 #afg ,h$yosmum fl[]s1 #cc ,heliotrope1 #cc b\quet1 #aid extract (1 #aed hair oil1 #bee p]fume1 #agf pomade1 #beb sa*et p[d]1 #baj ,heliotrop91 #cc ,heliotropium p]uvianum1 #cc ,hep> sulphuris1 #hd ,h]ba ,majoran1 #cg ,hibiscus ,abelmos*us1 #ch ,hi/ory ( p]fum]y1 #a ,homopa?ic *alk too? p[d]1 #bfb ,honeysuckle1 #cc extract (1 #aec p]fume1 #agf ,hov5ia p]fume1 #agg ,huile b5jam91 #bee l'ess-b\quet1 #bee cry/allise1 #bdi de jasm91 #bee de mille fleurs1 #ahh de palme1 #db hliotrope1 #bee philocome1 #bef ,hung>ian be>d wax1 #bie wat]1 #aie ,huntsman's nosegay1 #agh ,hydrog5 dioxide1 #bia ,hygi5ic & cosmetic p]fum]y1 #bbe ,hyraceum1 #ei ,hyssop1 #cd ,hyssopus (fic9alis1 #cd ,illicium anisatum1 ,i4 religiosum1 #dh ,inc5se p[d]1 #bag ,indian sa*et p[d]1 #baj ,inexhau/ible salt1 #bjj ,infusion1 #ih cold & w>m1 #adg ,iris1 #db flor5t9a1 #db ,iw>ankusa1 #ed ,jasm9e1 #cd emulsion1 #bcb extract (1 #aee hair oil1 #bee ,jasm9um odoratissimum1 #cd ,jockey club1 #agh ,junip]us virg9iana1 #bg ,jonquille1 extract (1 #aeg p]fume1 #agi pomade1 #bih ,kalod]m1 #bgi ,k>si1 #bhf ,kiss me quick p]fume1 #ahj ,kohol1 #bhg ,lait antphelique1 #bgd d'am&es amres1 #bch de concombre1 #bcg de lilas1 #bcf de pi/a*es1 #bch de roses1 #bch virg9al1 #bcf ,la?yrus tub]osus1 #ej ,lauri]1 #bb ,lauri]-crise1 #bi ,laurus nobilis1 #bb ,lav&e1 #cd ,lav&ula v]a1 #cd ,lav5d]1 #cd ess5ce (1 #aee p]fumes1 #ahc sa*et p[d]1 #baj ,leap-ye> b\quet1 #ahd ,lemon1 #ce ess5ce (1 #aef grass1 #cj1 #ce grass1 ess5ce (1 #aec ,lignum ,camphor1 #be ,c$ri1 #bg ,rhodii1 #de ,sassafras1 #dg ,lilac1 #cf extract (1 #aec milk1 #bcf p]fume1 #agd ,lilas1 #cf ,lilionese1 #bge ,lilium c&idum1 #cf ,lily1 #cf extract (1 #aef p]fume1 #ahe ( ! valley extract1 #ahe ( ! valley p]fume1 #agb1 #ahe ,limon1 #ce ,liquidamb> ori5talis1 ,l4 /yraciflua1 #di ,liquidamb]1 #di ,lip salve1 :ite & r$1 #bdc salves & cold-creams1 #bch ,lis1 #cf ,liv] ( sulphur1 #hd ,lonic]a ,caprifolium1 #cc ,lotion = *app$ sk91 #bgf ,lotions1 face1 #bgd ,macass> oil1 #bef ,mace1 #cf ,mac]ation1 #ih ,maces1 #cf ,magnolia1 #cg extract (1 #aef gr&iflora1 #cg p]fume1 #ahe ,mall>d's toilet v9eg>1 #bjf ,m>jola9e1 #cg ,m>joram1 #cg ,m>r[ cream1 #bea ,m>%al sa*et p[d]1 #baj ,mead[-sweet1 #ch ,meals & pa/es1 #bcc ,melaleuca ,cajuputi1 #be ,melanogne1 #bhi ,melissa (fic9alis1 #bb ,m5?a aquatica1 ,m4 crispa1 ,m4 pip]ita1 ,m4 viridis1 #ch ,m5! crpue1 poivre1 v]de1 #ch ,mignonette1 #de ,milk1 vegetable1 #bce ,mille fleurs sa*et p[d]1 #baa ,m9t1 #ch ,mos*us1 #ei ,moss-rose1 extract (1 #afa p]fume1 #aic ,m\ssel9e p]fume1 #ahh ,m\?1 prep>ations = ! c>e (1 #beg wa%es1 #bfe ,murexide pa9t1 #bgd ,muscade1 #dj ,musk1 #ei pa/e1 #bgi p]fume1 #ahh t9cture (1 #aef ,musk-se$1 #ch t9cture (1 #aeb ,musl9 sa*et p[d]1 #baa ,myrcia acris1 #bb ,myri/ica1 #dj ,myri/ica fragrans1 #cf ,myrrh1 #ci too? t9cture1 #bfg ,myrrha1 #ci ,myrtle1 extract (1 #aeg leaves1 #ci p]fume1 #ahi ,myrtus communis1 #ci ,nail p[d]1 #bdd ,n>cissus1 #dj extract (1 #aeg ,jonquilla1 #dj p]fume1 #ahi poeticus1 #dj ,n>do/a*ys ,jatamansi1 #dh ,navy's nosegay1 #ahi ,n]oli1 extract (1 #aeh ,new-m[n hay1 #agg1 #ahi ,nitrob5zol1 #hc ,nitr\s e!r1 #ha ,nosegay p]fume1 #agb ,nutmeg1 #dj butt]1 #abi ,odors1 extraction (1 #hg f pomades1 ab/raction (1 #ajb f ! vegetable k+dom1 #ac illet1 #dd nan?ic e!r1 #ga ,oil1 b5zoat$1 #bee cry/alliz$1 #bdi macass>1 #bef ( allspice1 #acb ( anise1 #aai ( b]gamot1 #aai ( bitt] almonds1 #gd1 #abj ( bitt] almonds1 artificial1 #hc ( burdock root1 #bef ( cajuput1 #abj ( calamus1 #abj ( c>away1 #abe ( casc>illa1 #aba ( cassia1 #aba1 #acg ( cassie1 #aai ( c$>1 #aba ( *amomile1 #abj ( *]ry-laurel1 #abe ( c9namon1 #acg ( citron1 #abb ( citronella1 #abb ( clove1 #acj ( cori&]1 #abc ( crispm9t1 #abi ( culilaban1 #abe ( eld]1 #abd ( g]anium1 #abc ( heliotrope1 #abd ( hyssop1 #acg ( jasm9e1 #bbd ( laurel1 #abg ( lav5d]1 #abe ( lemon1 #abb1 #abg ( lemon-grass1 #abb ( lilac1 #abc ( lily1 #abf ( mace1 #abi ( magnolia1 #abg ( m>joram1 #abg ( mead[sweet1 #ace ( melissa1 #abh ( mignonette1 #acc ( mirbane1 #hc ( myrtle1 #acj ( n>cissus1 #acj ( nroli big>ade1 #aca ( nroli ptale1 #aca ( nutmeg1 #abi ( orange1 #aca ( orange big>ade1 #aca ( orange fl[]s1 #acj ( pat*\ly1 #acb ( pepp]m9t1 #abi ( petit gra91 #aca ( p9k1 #acj ( ,portugal1 #aca ( res$a1 #acc ( rhodium1 #acd ( rose1 #acc ( rosem>y1 #acd ( rue1 #acc ( sage1 #acd ( s&al wood1 #acd ( santal1 #acd ( sassafras1 #ace ( spe>m9t1 #abi ( />-anise1 #ace ( sweet bay1 #abg ( sweet pea1 #acb ( ,swiss h]bs1 #bee ( syr+a1 #acb ( ?yme1 #ace ( turp5t9e1 #ach ( vanilla1 #acf ( v]b5a1 #acf ( vetiv]1 #acf ( violet1 #acf ( wallfl[]1 #abf ( w9t]gre51 #acf ( ylang-ylang1 #acg palm1 #bii ,oils1 ess5tial1 adult]ations (1 & _! recognition1 #aci ess5tial1 see also ,ess5tial oils fusel1 #ga ( m9t1 #abh purification (1 #gi ,ololisse1 #big ,oleum ,amygdal am>1 #gd1 #abj ,anisi ,/ellati1 #ace ,cajuputi1 #abj ,calami1 #abj ,c>i1 #abe ,c>yophylli1 #acj ,cassi1 #aba1 #acg ,*amomill1 #abj ,c9namomi1 #acg ,citri1 #abb ,cori&ri1 #abc ,culilavani1 #abe ,gaul!ri1 #acf ,hyssopi1 #acg ,illicii1 #ace ,iv>an*us1 #acf ,lauri1 #abg ,lav&ul1 #abe ,limonis1 #abb1 #abg ,macidis1 #abi ,majoran1 #abg ,m5? crisp1 #abi ,m5? pip]it1 #abi ,myri/ic1 #abi ,naph1 #acj ,n]oli1 #acj ,palm1 #db ,rosm>9i1 #acd ,rut1 #acc ,salvi1 #acd ,sambuci1 #abd ,santali1 #acd ,sassafras1 #ace ,spir1 #ace ,t]eb9?91 #ach ,?ymi1 #ace ,unon odoratissim1 #acg ,olibanum1 #dj t9cture (1 #ace ,oliv9e1 #bcc ,olla podrida sa*et p[d]1 #baa ,opopanax1 #da ,orange fl[]1 extract (1 #aeh fl[] pomade1 #beb fl[]s1 #da peel1 #da ,origanum1 #db ,majorana 7vulg>e71 #cg ,orris root1 #db root1 t9cture (1 #afc ,otto ( rose1 #acc ,oxidation ( ess5tial oils1 #ah ,oxide ( t91 #hf ,palm oil1 #db1 #bii ,pap]1 fumigat+1 #bah ,p>aff91 #hc ,pa/e1 ,spani%1 #bbd ,pa/es & meals1 #bcc ,pa/illes du srail1 #baf enbaumes1 #bag odorifrantes1 #bag ori5tales1 #bae1 #bfd ,pa/ils1 fumigat+1 #bad ,pat*\ly1 #dc ess5ce (1 #aeh p]fume1 #aia p[d]1 #bab ,pte camphorique1 #bdj d'am&es au miel1 #bcd d'am&es simple1 #bcc d5tifrice1 #bfa ,pe> e!r1 #ha ,pe>l :ite1 #hf1 #bga1 #bgh ,peau d',espagne1 #bbb ,pel>gonium roseum1 #cb ,p5cils1 fumigat+1 #baf ,pepp]m9t1 #ch ess5ce (1 #aef ,p]fum]y1 cosmetic1 #bfi division (1 #aff hi/ory (1 #a hygi5ic & cosmetic1 #bbe ,p]fumes1 acid1 #bjb ammoniacal1 #aii dry1 #bjg us$ = fumigation1 #bad ,p]manganate ( potassium1 #gf1 #bfg1 #bhg ,p]oxide ( hydrog51 #bia ,p]sian sa*et p[d]1 #bab ,p]u balsam1 #dc balsam1 t9cture (1 #aei hair oil1 #bef ,petroleum e!r1 #fe ,philadelphus coron>ius1 #cd1 #ea ,philocome hair oil1 #bef pomade1 #bed ,pim5ta1 #ba ,pimp9ella ,anisum1 #ba ,p9e-apple1 #dd e!r1 #ha ,p9e-ne$le odor1 #aig ,p9k1 #dd ,p9k1 extract (1 #aeh p]fume1 #aij ,pip]onal1 #cc ,pi/a*io meal1 #bce milk1 #bch ,place ( gr[? ( plants1 influ5ce on _! odor1 #aa ,plum]ia1 #dd ,pogo/emon ,pat*\ly1 #dc ,pois de s5teur1 #ej ,polian?us tub]osa1 #ec ,polyan?us p]fume1 #aij ,pomade fleurs1 #bej fleurs d'oranges1 #beb graisse d'ours1 #bej la rose p\r les lvres1 #bdc molle de buf1 #bea qu9qu9e1 #bea blan*e p\r les lvres1 #bdc c]ise1 #bdc de hliotrope1 #beb des violettes1 #bec div9e1 #bda philocome1 #bed ,pomades & hair oils1 #bde =mulas =1 #bdg ,pomatum1 /ick1 #bid ,portugal oil1 #beg sa*et p[d]1 #bab ,potassii sulphuretum1 #hd p]manganas1 #gf ,potassium p]manganate hair dye1 #bhg p]manganate wat]1 #bfg sulphide (1 #hd ,potp\rri sa*et p[d]1 #bab ,p\dre la rose1 #bgg la violette1 #bgh blan*e surf9e1 #bgh de la re9e1 #bba d'enc5s1 #bag de pi/a*es1 #bgg de riz1 #bgh impriale1 #bba p\r les ongles1 #bdd royale1 #bba ,p\dres enc5soires1 #bbj ,p[d]1 inc5se1 #bag ,p[d]s1 toilet1 #bgf ,prep>ations = ! c>e ( ! m\?1 #beg ,pressure1 #hh ,pre/on salt1 #bjb ,prunus lauroc]asus1 #bi ,pt]oc>pus santal9us1 #dg ,pul*r9e1 #bgf ,pumice /one objectionable z a too? p[d]1 #beh ,pyrogallic acid1 #hd ,que5 ,victoria's p]fume1 #aij ,qu99e too? p[d]1 #bfb ,rac9e de glaeule1 #ej ,radix ,calami1 #ej ,iridis flor5t91 #db ,sumbul1 #di ,rancidity ( fats1 prev5tion (1 #gi ,r$ colors1 #bii ,re9e des prs1 #ch ,res$a1 #de ess5ce (1 #aia extract (1 #aei odorata1 #de ,res9a ,opopanax1 #da ,res9ification1 #ah ,rhatany1 #cjj ,rhodium1 #de ,rhusma1 #bid ,ribbons1 fumigat+1 #bai ,ribes nig]1 #bg ,rob9ia pseudoacacia1 #bg ,rom>91 #df ,rondeletia odoratissima p]fume1 #aia ,rosa1 #de c5tifolia p]fume1 #aib ,rose1 #de ess5ce or extract (1 #aei1 #afa milk1 #bch m\sseuse p]fume1 #aic odors1 #aib sa*et p[d]1 #bac ?a p]fume1 #aic too? p[d]1 #bfd wat]1 #afj ,rosebud cold-cream1 #bdd ,rosem>y1 #df ,roses blan*es p]fume1 #aic jaunes p]fume1 #aib jumelles p]fume1 #aic ,rosm>9us (fic9alis1 #df ,r\ge alloxane1 #bgd en feuilles1 #bgb en pte1 #bgc en tasses1 #bgc vgtal rose liquide1 #bgb ,r\ges1 #bgb ,royal ,horse-,gu>d's b\quet1 #agg nosegay1 #aib ,rue1 #df ,ruta graveol5s1 #df ,sa*ets1 =mulas =1 #bji ,saffron1 #bih ,safrol1 #dg ,sage1 #df ,salicylat$ too? t9cture1 #bfh ,salicylic acid1 pres]vation ( fats by1 #gi ,salt1 inexhau/ible1 #bjj smell+1 :ite1 #bja ,pre/on1 #bjb ,salvia (fic9alis1 #df ,sambucus canad5sis1 #cb nig]1 #cb ,santal1 extract (1 #afb sa*et p[d]1 #bac wood1 #dg ,santalum album1 #dg ,sassafras1 ,s4 (fic9alis1 #dg ,sauge1 #df ,savon d5tifrice1 #bfj ,savonettes camphoriques1 #bda d'am&es1 #bdd ,sc5t bags1 #bjg ,s*nuda1 #bgd ,s*o5an!1 #ce ,seiff]t's extraction app>atus1 #aje ,sel blanc p>fum1 #bja 9puisable1 #bjj volatil1 #bjb ,sem5 ,abelmos*i1 #ch ,ane?i1 #ca ,anisi /ellati1 #dh ,c>vi1 #be ,sep>at+ funnel1 #hi1 #ih ,sep>ators1 #if ,s]+at1 #ea ,sk91 *app$1 lotion =1 #bge cosmetics & face lotions1 #bgj cosmetics1 r$1 #bgb cosmetics1 :ite1 #bga gloss1 #bgh ,smell+ salt1 :ite1 #bja ,sodii boras1 #ge ,s\mb\l1 #di ,spani% pa/e1 #bbd sk91 #bbb ,spe>m9t1 #ch ,sp]maceti1 #he ,spic$ v9eg>1 #bjd ,spic-n>d1 #dh ,spike-lav5d]1 #ce ,spik5>d1 #dh ,spira ulm>ia1 #ch ,sponges1 blea*+ (1 #cjb ,spr+ kisses1 #agj nosegay p]fume1 #aid ,/>*1 #hd ,/>-anise1 #dh ,/eam /ill1 #aaj ,/ick pomatum1 #bid ,/ills1 #ib et seq4 ,/orax1 #di t9cture (1 #afb ,/yrax ,b5zo91 #bc ,suave p]fume1 #aid ,subnitrate ( bismu?1 #hf ,sug> too? p[d]1 #bfd ,sulphide ( potassium1 #hd ,sumbul root1 #di ,sureau1 #cb ,sweet almonds1 #ej ,sweet-bri]1 extract (1 #afa ,sweet-flag root1 #ej ,sweet gum1 #di ,sweet-pea1 #ej ess5ce (1 #aif extract (1 #aei ,syr+a1 #ea p]fume1 #aie vulg>is1 #cf ,table %[+ ! approximate d5sity1 boil+ & congeal+ po9ts ( ess5tial oils1 #ada ,tables1 p]c5tage1 ( alcohol1 #gj ,tann9 hair dye1 #bhi ,tanno-qu99e hair re/or]1 #bhc pomade1 #beb ,tea-rose1 extract (1 #afb p]fume1 #aic ,te9t de ,v5us1 #bgf ,te9ture *9oise1 #bhg ori5tale1 #bhf ,t]p9eol1 #cf ,?yme1 #ea ,?ymus ,s]pyllum1 ,t4 vulg>is1 #ea ,t91 oxide (1 #hf ,t9cture1 def9ition (1 #aej ,toilet p[d]1 p9k1 #bgg p[d]1 :ite1 #bgg p[d]s1 #bgf ut5sils1 #cja v9eg>1 ,mall>d's1 #bjf v9eg>s1 #bjd ,tolu balsam1 #ea t9cture (1 #afb ,toluif]a ,balsamum1 #ea ,p]eir1 #dc ,tonka beans1 #eb cream1 #bec oil1 #beg t9cture (1 #afc ,too? pa/es1 #bfj p[d]s1 #bfb soap1 #bfj t9ctures1 #bfe ,transp>5t pomade1 #beb ,tub]ose1 #ec emulsion1 #bcb extract (1 #afc ,tulipe odorifrante p]fume1 #aie ,tum]ic1 #bih ,tw9-rose p]fume1 #aic ,tw9-roses1 extract (1 #afb ,unona odoratissima1 #ef ,ut5sils us$ 9 ! toilet1 #cja ,vanilla1 #ec aromatica1 ,v4 planifolia1 #ec camphor1 #acf cream1 #bec oil1 #beg pomade1 #bec t9cture (1 #afc ,vanill91 #he1 #acf ,vasel91 #he ,vegetable aromatic sub/ances1 *emical con/itution (1 #ae k+dom1 odors f1 #ac milk1 #bce ,v5etian *alk1 #bga ,v]b5a1 #ed extract (1 #afc ,v]b5a p]fume1 #aif sa*et p[d]1 #bad triphylla1 #ed ,v]ve9e1 #ed ,vetiv]1 #cj1 #ed ess5ce (1 #afe sa*et p[d]1 #bad ,v9aigre la rose1 #bjd aux pices1 #bjd aux fleurs d'oranges1 #bje aux violettes1 #bje de cologne1 #bje de lav&e1 #bjf de quatre voleurs1 #bje !r1 #bjf hyginique1 #bje polyan!1 #bjg ,v9aigres enc5soires1 #bbj ,v9eg>1 aromatic1 #bjc ,mall>d's toilet1 #bjf orange-fl[]1 #bjf prev5tive1 #bje spic$1 #bjd toilet1 ,fr5*1 #bjg ,v9eg>s1 toilet1 #bjd ,viola odorata1 #ed ,violet1 #ed cold-cream1 #bdd color1 #cja emulsion1 #bcb extract (1 #afc p]fume1 #aie pomade1 #bec sa*et p[d]1 #bac1 #bad ,violettes des montagnes1 #aig ,violettes 7p]fume71 #aie ,virg9al milk1 #bcf ,vohl's extraction app>atus1 #aaj ,volcam]ia1 #ee extract (1 #afd in]mis1 #ee p]fume1 #aig ,wallfl[]1 #ee extract (1 #aee p]fume1 #ahd ,wat]s1 aromatic1 #aac1 #afg ,wax1 #he pomades1 #bid ,we/ ,end p]fume1 #aig ,:isk] dye1 #bib ,:ite1 ,fr5*1 #bga pe>l1 dry1 #bgh rose1 extract (1 #afb rose p]fume1 #aic ,w9t]gre51 #ee extract (1 #afe p]fume1 #aih ,ya*t club p]fume1 #aih ,yell[ colors1 #bih ,yield ( ess5tial oils1 #aac ,ylang-ylang1 #ef p]fume1 #aih 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcrib]'s ,notes ,obvi\s typographical errors h be5 sil5tly correct$4 ,v>iations 9 hyph5ation h be5 /&>dis$ b all o!r spell+ & punctuation rema9s un*ang$4 ,! l>g] tables h be5 re-organis$ to fit m readily )9 page con/ra9ts4 ,italics are repres5t$ ?us italic1 bold ?us bold4