,,perfumes ,,and ,,their ,,preparation4 ,,containing ,,complete ,,directions ,,for ,,making ,,handkerchief ,,perfumes1 ,,smelling-,,salts1 ,,sachets1 ,,fumigating ,,pastils2 ,,preparations ,,for ,,the ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,skin1 ,,the ,,mouth1 ,,the ,,hair2 ,,cosmetics1 ,,hair ,,dyes1 ,,and ,,other ,,toilet ,,articles4 ,,with ,a ,,detailed ,,description ,,of ,,aromatic ,,substances2 ,,their ,,nature1 ,,tests ,,of ,,purity1 ,,and ,,wholesale ,,manufacture4 ,,by ,,george ,,william ,,askinson1 ,,dr4 ,,chem41 ,,manufacturer ,,of ,,perfumery4 ,,translated ,,from ,,the ,,third ,,german ,,edition ,,by ,,isidor ,,furst4 7,,with ,,corrections ,,and ,,additions ,,by ,,several ,,experts47 ,illustrated with #cb ,engravings4 ,,new ,,york3 ,n4 ,w4 ,,henley ,,co41 #aej ,,nassau ,,st4 ,,london3 ,e4 ,f4 ,n4 ,,spon1 #abe1 ,,strand4 #ahib4 ,,copyrighted1 #ahib1 ,,by ,,norman ,w4 ,,henley ,,co4 ,,preface4 ,the great progress which the art of perfumery has made during recent times is due to several causes1 the chief one of which is fully realized only by the manufacturer on a large scale1 who stands1 as it were1 behind the scenes and has access to facts and information concerning the materials he uses1 which are not so easily accessible to the dilettante in perfumery1 or remain altogether unknown to the latter4 ,this important factor is the advance in our knowledge of the physical and chemical properties of the several substances used in perfumery1 whereby we can better discriminate between the genuine and the spurious1 the choicest and the inferior1 thus insuring1 at the very start1 a satisfactory result1 instead of being compelled to resort to wasteful experimentation and empiricism4 ,a better knowledge has also been gained of the sources of the commercial varieties of many of the crude products1 and a better insight into the conditions affecting their qualities or properties4 ,a more exhaustive study of the proximate principles of many of the essential oils has thrown an entirely new light upon this heretofore obscure class of bodies1 placing into our hands new products of definite chemical composition1 unvarying in physical properties1 and many of them valuable additions to the perfumer's stock of ingredients4 ,synthetic chemistry has also added to the list of materials required by the perfumer1 and is surely going to add many more to it hereafter4 ,though some of these1 like the new artificial musk1 are not yet in a condition to enter into serious competition with the natural products1 yet it is merely a question of time when the latter need no longer be depended upon4 ,the increasing demands for the staple articles used by the perfumer have also caused a large increase in the cultivation of many important plants in various parts of the world1 and have led to the establishment of new plantations1 in some cases to such an extent that the commercial relations have been entirely revolutionized1 new territories producing larger crops and a finer product than the old home of the plant4 ,the exploration of hitherto unknown or imperfectly known countries has also largely added to the perfumer's art1 and is likely to continue to do this for a long time to come1 since it is now well known that vast districts1 more particularly in tropical ,africa1 are inhabited by a flora abounding in new odoriferous plants4 ,in spite of all this expansion of the perfumer's stock of trade1 however1 which results in the periodical introduction of new compounds1 there is a very large number of popular odorous mixtures which remain in steady demand1 having taken such firm root among civilized nations that they are not likely to be displaced4 ,it is more particularly with a view to afford information regarding these latter that a work like the present is desirable and necessary4 ,a treatise on perfumery is expected to place into the hands of the purchaser reasonably reliable processes for preparing the most generally approved simple or compound perfumes1 as well as accurate information concerning the origin and properties of the various ingredients1 together with practical hints regarding the determination of their genuineness and purity4 ,it is a frequent complaint of those who make preparations after formulas published in works like the present1 that they do not succeed in obtaining fully satisfactory products4 ,another complaint of purchasers of such works is this3 that they fail to find formulas yielding preparations identical in every respect with certain celebrated perfumes which have made the reputation and fortune of certain firms4 ,regarding the first complaint1 we would say that the failure lies generally with the complainant himself1 through carelessness in the selection of the materials or disregard of the given directions4 ,concerning the second complaint1 a moment's reflection must convince any one that formulas which are the result of the study and experimentation of years1 and the products of which are the main stock of trade of certain firms1 are carefully guarded1 and not likely to be communicated to others4 ,moreover1 in many cases even a publication of the component parts would not be of much avail1 for the manufacturer on the large scale has facilities for blending and seasoning his products which the maker on a small scale does not possess1 and it is this part of the art particularly upon which the quality of the products depends4 ,in preparing the present treatise for the ,american public many changes were found necessary in the original text1 in order to make the information given more correct or definite1 and so bring the work more abreast of the present time4 ,in addition to various improvements and additions made in the working formulas comprising the second portion of the work1 the description of the natural products used as ingredients1 upon the quality and selection of which the success of the perfumer mostly depends1 has been carefully revised1 and so far as the objects of this work required1 completed by ,dr4 ,charles ,rice1 ,associate ,editor of ,american ,druggist1 etc41 in consultation with several experts in the art of perfumery4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,page ,the ,history of ,perfumery #a ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,about ,aromatic ,substances in ,general #f ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,odors from the ,vegetable ,kingdom #ac ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,the ,aromatic ,vegetable ,substances ,employed in ,perfumery #bj ,,chapter ,v4 ,the ,animal ,substances ,used in ,perfumery #eg ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,the ,chemical ,products ,used in ,perfumery #fc ,a4 ,chemicals ,used for the ,extraction of ,aromatic ,substances #fd ,b4 ,chemical ,products ,used for the ,preparation of ,perfumes #fh ,c4 ,the ,colors ,used in ,perfumery #hg ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,the ,extraction of ,odors #hg ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,the ,special ,characteristics of ,aromatic ,substances #aah ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,the ,adulteration of ,essential ,oils and their ,recognition #aci ,,chapter ,x4 ,the ,essences or ,extracts ,employed in ,perfumery #adf ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,directions for ,making the ,most ,important ,essences and ,extracts #aej ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,the ,division of ,perfumery #aff ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,the ,manufacture of ,handkerchief ,perfumes1 ,bouquets1 or ,aromatic ,waters #afg ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,formulas for ,handkerchief ,perfumes #afi ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,ammoniacal and ,acid ,perfumes #aii ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,dry ,perfumes #bjg ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,formulas for ,dry ,perfumes 7,sachets7 #bji ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,the ,perfumes ,used for ,fumigation #bad ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,hygienic and ,cosmetic ,perfumery #bbe ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,preparations for the ,care of the ,skin #bbg ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,formulas for the ,preparation of ,emulsions1 ,meals1 ,pastes1 ,vegetable ,milk1 and ,cold-,creams #bcj ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,the ,preparations ,used for the ,care of the ,hair 7,pomades and ,hair ,oils7 #bde ,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,formulas for the ,manufacture of ,pomades and ,hair ,oils #bdg ,,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,preparations for the ,care of the ,mouth #beg ,,chapter ,,xxv4 ,cosmetic ,perfumery #bfi ,,chapter ,,xxvi4 ,skin ,cosmetics and ,face ,lotions #bgj ,,chapter ,,xxvii4 ,hair ,cosmetics #bhj ,,chapter ,,xxviii4 ,hair ,dyes and ,depilatories #bhe ,,chapter ,,xxix4 ,wax ,pomades1 ,bandolines1 and ,brillantines #bid ,,chapter ,,xxx4 ,the ,colors ,used in ,perfumery #big ,,chapter ,,xxxi4 ,the ,utensils ,used in the ,toilet #cja ,,perfumes ,,and ,,their ,,preparation4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,the ,,history ,,of ,,perfumery4 ,the gratification of his senses is peculiar to man1 and it is to this trait that we are indebted for all the arts4 ,the activities which aimed at the gratification of the eye and ear developed into the creative arts and music1 and in like manner human endeavor directed toward the stimulation of the sense of smell has in our time assumed the proportions both of an art and a science2 for it was nothing but the advancement of chemistry that made it possible to fix all the pleasant odors offered by nature and to create new perfumes by the artistic combination of these scents4 ,the preparation of perfumes is a very ancient art that is met with among all peoples possessed of any degree of civilization4 ,it is particularly the ancient nations of the ,orient which had in truth become masters in the manufacture of numerous perfumes4 ,the first perfume was the fragrant flower2 it has continued to be so to the present day3 the sprig of dried lavender flowers which we lay in the clothes-press was probably used for the same purpose by the contemporaries of ,aristotle4 ,in the ,orient1 which we may look upon as the cradle of the art of perfumery1 the idea suggested itself early to substitute for the delicious fragrance of the flowers some substances of lasting odor2 various sweet-scented resins supplied the material for this purpose4 ,the use of these aromatic resins must have been very extensive3 the ancient ,egyptians alone consumed extraordinary quantities for embalming their dead4 ,how highly the ,oriental peoples in general prized perfumes can be learned from the ,bible3 the ,jews 7like the ,catholics to the present day7 employed an aromatic gum-resin 7olibanum1 frankincense7 in their religious ceremonies2 in the ,song of ,solomon mention is made of ,indian perfumes1 for instance1 cinnamon1 spikenard1 myrrh1 and aloes4 ,altogether1 incense played a prominent part in the religious ceremonies of the ancient ,western ,asiatic nations--among many peoples under a theocratic government it was even believed to be sinful to use incense for other than religious purposes4 ,the ,bible teaches us that ,ezekiel and ,isaiah protested against it1 and that ,moses even prescribed the preparation of certain kinds of incense for use in the tabernacle4 ,among the most highly civilized people of antiquity1 the ,greeks1 a large number of fragrant substances1 as well as oils perfumed with them--that is to say1 perfumes in the same sense as we still understand the term--was known2 this will be no surprise to those familiar with the culture of this remarkable people4 ,the odor of violets was the favorite among the ,greeks2 besides this they used the scent of the different mints1 thyme1 marjoram1 and other aromatic plants4 ,this was carried so far as to become a matter of fashion for the ,greek fop to use only certain odors in the form of ointments for the hair1 others for the neck1 etc4 ,in order to prevent this luxury which was carried to such an excess1 ,solon even promulgated a law that interdicted the sale of fragrant oils to ,athenian men 7the law did not apply to the women74 ,the ,romans1 who were the pupils of the ,greeks in all the arts1 carried the luxury with perfumes perhaps even farther4 ,in ancient ,rome there was a very numerous guild of perfumers called unguentarii2 they are said to have had a street to themselves in ,capua4 ,a ,patrician ,roman anointed himself three times daily with precious1 sweet-scented oils which he personally took along into his bath in golden vessels of exquisite workmanship1 so-called nartheci4 ,at the funeral of his wife ,poppa1 ,nero is said to have used as incense more odorous substances than could be produced in one year in ,arabia1 at that time the only reputed source of perfumes4 ,this luxury went so far that during the games in the open amphitheatres the whole air was filled with sweet odors ascending from numerous censers arranged in a circle4 ,the apartments of well-to-do ,romans always contained large and very valuable urns filled with dried blossoms1 to keep the air permanently perfumed4 ,roman extravagance with perfumes was carried to such an excess that under the consulate of ,licinius ,crassus a law was passed which restricted the use of perfumery1 there being good reason to fear that there would not be enough for the ceremonies in the temples4 ,with the migration of the almost savage ,huns and ,goths1 the refinement of morals ceased1 progress in civilization was retarded for centuries1 and at the same time the use of perfumes disappeared entirely in ,europe2 but it was otherwise in the ,orient4 ,as an instance we may mention the prophecy of ,mohammed1 who promised in the ,koran to the faithful in paradise the possession of black-eyed houries whose bodies were composed of the purest musk4 ,the ,arabs1 the ancient masters of chemistry1 were also the first founders of the art of perfumery4 ,thus the ,arabian physician ,avicenna1 in the tenth century1 taught the art of preparing fragrant waters from leaves1 and ,sultan ,saladin1 in #aaeg1 on his triumphal entry1 had the walls of the mosque of ,omar washed with rose water4 ,it was the intercourse with the ,orient brought about by the ,crusades that made ,europeans again more familiar with the art of perfumery1 and a number of new odors rapidly became known4 ,italy and ,france1 in those times the representatives of culture1 were the countries in which the preparation of perfumes was carried on on a large scale4 ,thus1 for instance1 we find the name of a ,roman family preserved to the present day because one of its members had combined a sweet-scented powder1 called ,frangipanni after its inventor1 which is still in favor1 and because his grandson ,mauritius ,frangipanni had made the important discovery that by treating this powder with spirit of wine the fragrant substance could be obtained in a fluid form4 ,the fact has been frequently related and repeated1 that ,catherine de ,medici1 the wife of ,henry ,,ii41 had made use of the fashion of perfuming the body for the purpose of ridding herself of objectionable persons1 by giving them scented gloves prepared and at the same time poisoned by a ,florentine named ,ren 7,renato874 ,we think this tale to be simply a hair-raising fable--modern chemistry knows no substance the mere touch of which could produce the effect of a fatal poison2 and it is scarcely credible that such a material had been known at that time and lost sight of since4 ,in the sixteenth century1 especially at the court of ,queen ,elizabeth1 perfumes were used with great extravagance2 in fact1 were looked upon as one of the necessaries of life4 ,this luxury was carried still farther at the courts of the sumptuous kings of ,france2 ,louis ,,xv4 went so far as to demand every day a different odor for his apartments4 ,a lady's lover always used the same kind of perfume she did4 ,it is well known that among the ,oriental nations perfumes are used so largely that even food is flavored with rose water1 musk1 etc42 and ,indian and ,chinese goods always possess a peculiar aroma which is so characteristic for certain products that it was considered to be a sign of genuineness2 this was the case1 for instance1 with the patchouly odor which always adheres to ,indian shawls4 ,a shawl-maker of ,lyons1 who had succeeded in perfectly imitating ,indian shawls with reference to design and colors1 spent a fabulous sum to obtain possession of the plant used by the ,indian weavers for perfuming their wares4 ,despite the great outlay caused by the search for this plant1 the manufacturer is said to have done a flourishing business with his 8genuine0 ,indian shawls4 ,in more recent times the great extension of trade to the farthest countries of the globe1 and still more the progress of chemistry1 have made us familiar with a number of new perfumes4 ,more than two hundred different aromatic substances are now known1 and still they are far from being exhausted2 every year new odoriferous plants become known1 from which the chemist extracts perfumes4 ,by this means1 as well as by the enormous employment of perfumes in all grades of society1 the art of their preparation has risen to a higher plane2 out of empiricism1 which alone prevailed a few decades ago1 into the domain of the chemical sciences4 ,since the appearance of the last edition of this book1 the art of perfumery has made noteworthy progress both with reference to the knowledge of new aromatic substances and to improvement in the methods of their preparation2 by the introduction of glycerin1 solid and liquid vaselin1 and salicylic acid into perfumery1 one of its branches--hygienic cosmetics--has made an important advance4 ,at present it is particularly ,france and ,england whose perfumery industry is most extensive and which to some extent rule the markets of the world2 southern ,france and ,algiers especially furnish the best raw materials1 the finest essential oils for the manufacture of perfumes at the chief centres1 ,paris and ,london4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,about ,,aromatic ,,substances ,,in ,,general4 ,we apply the term perfume--which really means a fumigating material--to those substances which make an agreeable impression upon our sense of smell2 the ,french call them briefly odeurs1 i4e41 odors4 ,the high degree of development at present attained by this industry in ,france and ,england is the cause of the fact that all perfumes are generally sold under ,french or ,english names1 which must be borne in mind by manufacturers in this country4 ,perfumes or scents1 however1 exert not only an agreeable impression on the olfactory organ1 but their effect extends to the entire nervous system1 which they stimulate2 when used in excess1 they are apt to cause headache in sensitive persons2 the laborers in the chemical factories where these substances are produced on a large scale1 occasionally even suffer by reason of their stimulating action on the nerves4 ,for this reason perfumes should never be employed otherwise than in a very dilute condition2 this necessity arises from a peculiarity of the odorous substances which when concentrated and pure have by no means a pleasant smell and become fragrant only when highly diluted4 ,oil of roses1 of orange flowers1 or of jasmine1 in fact nearly all aromatic substances1 have an almost disagreeable odor when concentrated2 only in an extremely dilute state they yield those delightful scents which we admire so much in the blossoms from which they are derived4 ,it will be easier to understand the almost incredible productiveness of perfumes if we cite as an instance that a few centigrams of musk placed on a sensitive scale can for years fill a large hall with their characteristic odor without showing an appreciable loss of weight1 and still particles must separate from the musk and become evenly diffused through the air of the hall because the odor is perceptible throughout every part of it4 ,it would be an error1 however1 were we to assume that all aromatic substances possess the same degree of productiveness2 some of them1 as for instance the odorous principle of orris root1 have a comparatively faint smell--a fact which must be borne in mind in the combination of perfumes4 ,even odors having a very similar effect on the olfactory nerves differ widely in their intensity2 for instance1 true oil 7attar7 of roses possesses an intensity more than twice as great as that of the rose geranium2 many authorities agree in giving the proportion as three to eight1 the first figure being that of rose oil1 the second that of oil of rose geranium4 ,therefore1 in order to produce perfumes of equal intensity 7having the same effect on the olfactory nerves71 we must dissolve in an equal quantity of the menstruum either three parts by weight of the attar of roses or eight parts of the oil of rose geranium4 ,in the prescriptions for the preparation of perfumes given in this book1 these proportions have been carefully weighed2 but it will be the office of the trained olfactory sense of the manufacturer to modify them for the various kinds of perfumery in such a way as to produce a truly harmonious pleasant odor4 ,although we know many aromatic substances1 we are still in ignorance as to the preparation of certain decidedly agreeable odors4 ,thus no one at present is able to produce the refreshing odor of the sea borne along on the wind1 any more than we are able to reproduce the scent exhaled by the forest1 especially after a warm rain2 chemistry1 though it has done much in the domain of perfumery1 has thus far thrown no light upon it4 ,even certain vegetable odors--for instance1 the delightful perfume exhaled by some ,aroide and ,primulace--we cannot as yet preserve unchanged in perfumery4 ,this opens an illimitable field for future activity to the progressive manufacturer4 ,in a book devoted to the production of perfumes it would certainly be in place to say something about the physiological relations of the olfactory sensations2 but unfortunately this interesting part of physiology is still enveloped in great obscurity4 ,all we know positively on this subject is that many particles of the odorous bodies evaporate and must come in contact with the olfactory nerves in order to produce the sensation of odor4 ,there is no lack of experiments seeking to draw a parallel between sensations of smell and those of hearing1 and1 as is well known1 we speak of a harmony and dissonance of odors as we do of tones4 ,piesse1 the renowned perfumer1 has even made an attempt to arrange the different odors in a 8harmonic scale0 having the compass of the piano1 and to deduce therefrom a law for the mixture of the several aromatic substances4 ,this attempt1 although very ingenious1 still lacks a scientific foundation4 ,piesse endeavors to combine the several scents like tones to produce chords in different scales2 the chords of odors are to agree with those of tones4 ,thus far1 however1 no proof has been furnished that the olfactory nerve and the acoustic nerve have the same organization1 and under this supposition alone could ,piesse's system be accepted as correct4 ,,the ,,division ,,of ,,aromatic ,,substances ,,according ,,to ,,their ,,origin4 ,the majority of the substances used in perfumery are derived from the vegetable kingdom1 but some come from the animal kingdom1 and for others which do not occur complete in nature we are indebted to chemistry4 ,as is well known1 most blossoms possess a decided odor1 which is extremely fragrant in some2 yet it is not the blossoms alone1 but in different genera various parts are distinguished by agreeable odors4 ,in some plants the fragrant substances are contained in every part1 as in different pines and the mints2 in others1 only in the fruits 7nutmeg1 vanilla71 while the other parts are odorless2 in certain plants only the rinds of the fruits contain an aromatic substance 7oranges1 lemons74 ,in the ,florentine ,iris the entire plant is odorless--only its root stock possesses an agreeable1 violet-like scent2 while1 for instance1 in the camphor-tree an aromatic substance exists in the wood1 in the cinnamon laurel in the bark1 in the clove-tree mainly in the closed buds4 ,but taking the aromatic plants all together1 we find that it is particularly their flowers which contain the finest odors1 and that the majority of perfumes are prepared from their blossoms4 ,from the animal kingdom we take for the purposes of perfumery only a very small number of substances1 among which1 moreover1 some peculiar relation exists2 while1 for instance1 all men would call the odor of violets1 roses1 vanilla1 etc41 agreeable1 the odor of some animal substances is decidedly obnoxious to many persons1 though others like it--an observation which can be verified often with reference to musk4 ,with the advancement of science1 chemical products find application in ever increasing numbers2 among them are substances which owe their origin directly to the vegetable kingdom1 while others1 such as nitrobenzol and pine-apple ether1 are only indirectly derived from it4 ,from what has been stated1 we learn that our attention must be directed particularly to those scents which are derived from the vegetable kingdom4 ,to the manufacturer of perfumery1 however1 it is a matter of importance whence the plants are obtained which he uses for the preparation of the odors2 a very slight change in the soil often makes a great difference in the quality of one and the same species2 we see this quite clearly in our ordinary strawberry4 ,while the wild fruit is but small in size it has a delightful aromatic flavor1 and the same species transplanted into gardens attains much greater size but possesses only a faint aroma not to be compared with that of the wild variety4 ,the ,lombardian violet is large and beautiful1 but the ,german has a much more pleasant odor4 ,on the other hand1 the blossoms of the orange-tree obtained from the plants cultivated in pots cannot be compared with reference to their odor with these growing in the ,riviera1 the strip of coast land of the ,mediterranean from ,marseilles to ,genoa4 ,altogether the last-named region and the south of ,france may be called the true garden of the perfumer2 in the neighborhood of ,grasse1 ,cannes1 ,nice1 ,monaco1 and some other towns1 extensive plots of ground are set with aromatic plants such as orange-trees1 ,acacia farnesiana1 jasmine1 violets1 etc41 whose products are elaborated in large1 well-appointed chemical factories solely devoted to the extraction of their odors4 ,the proximity of the sea-coast1 with its favorable climate almost free from frost1 permits the cultivation of southern plants1 while in the more elevated parts of the country the adjoining ,maritime ,alps cause a more changeable climate which adapts them to certain other sweet-scented plants4 ,the great value of the annual production of the ,french flower farms at ,cannes1 ,grasse1 and ,nice will be evident from the following figures4 ,the harvesting and elaboration of the flowers at the points named give employment to fifteen thousand persons1 and the average annual production is3 ,orange flowers1 #b1jjj1jjj kgm41 valued at #b1jjj1jjj francs4 ,roses1 #ejj1jjj #ejj1jjj ,jasmine1 #hj1jjj #bjj1jjj ,violets1 #hj1jjj #djj1jjj ,acacia flowers1 #dj1jjj #afj1jjj ,tuberoses1 #bj1jjj #hj1jjj -------------- -------------- #b1gbj1jjj kgm41 valued at #c1cdj1jjj francs4 ,from these flowers were manufactured3 #ejj1jjj kgm4 of pomades and essences1 #a1jjj1jjj litres of orange-flower water1 #ajj1jjj litres of rose water1 and #a1bjj kgm4 of oil of roses4 ,besides1 in more northern countries we find here and there quite an extensive cultivation of aromatic plants2 this is the case1 for instance1 in ,england1 where lavender1 crisp mint1 and peppermint are planted on a large scale solely for their perfume4 ,in northern ,germany1 too1 we sometimes find caraway and sweet flag cultivated1 for their peculiar odors only1 in special fields4 ,as stated above1 the place of growth of a plant exerts a powerful influence on the quality of the odors developed in it2 this circumstance may be the reason why certain scents are prized most highly when they are derived from some definite regions1 because the buyer is sure that the product from such places is of superior excellence4 ,thus we find that ,english oils of lavender and peppermint are valued more highly and bring better prices than those from other points of production2 some places even have1 as it were1 acquired a monopoly of certain odors4 ,while the factories at ,cannes produce the most perfect odors of roses1 orange flowers1 jasmine1 and cassie1 those at ,nice are famous for the finest odors of violet1 reseda 7mignonette71 and tuberose1 and those of ,italy for the odors of bergamot and orris root4 ,unfortunately there are in the ,united ,states no extensive places of cultivation for odoriferous plants1 although certain localities are very well adapted to the growth of violets1 mignonette1 roses1 syringa1 lavender1 etc4 ,peppermint1 however1 is grown on a large scale in some parts of ,new ,york ,state and in ,michigan4 ,of course such an enterprise1 in order to be profitable1 requires the intelligent co-operation of planters and duly qualified chemists1 besides well-furnished laboratories and a considerable amount of capital2 but under these conditions the prospects of gain are good4 ,at present the manufacturers of perfumery are almost entirely dependent upon ,english and ,french factories for their supply of odors4 ,owing to the absence of competition1 the prices for the products1 excellent though they are1 are high1 and become still more so when the crops are short4 ,these conditions would be materially altered under active competition4 ,as indicated above1 the odors used in perfumery may be divided into three distinct groups according to their origin4 ,these groups are3 #a4 ,odors of vegetable origin4 #b4 ,odors of animal origin4 #c4 ,odors of artificial origin--chemical products4 ,before describing the preparation of true perfumes1 it is necessary to become acquainted with the several raw materials required in their manufacture2 that is to say1 the simple odorous substances1 their origin1 their preparation1 and their peculiar qualities4 ,besides these odorous raw materials1 the art of perfumery makes use of a number of chemical and mineral products1 whose quality largely influences that of the perfume to be made4 ,these1 therefore1 likewise call for an appropriate description4 ,among these auxiliary substances are alcohol1 glycerin1 fixed oils1 and solid fats1 which play an important part not only in the preparation of the perfumes1 but also enter into the composition of many4 ,the liquid handkerchief perfumes always contain a large quantity of alcohol1 the scented hair oils consist largely of fixed oils1 while solid fats of animal or vegetable origin occur in the so-called pomades4 ,as we shall see1 the actual odors1 owing to their extraordinary productiveness1 constitute generally only a small percentage of the perfumes2 the greatest bulk is usually either alcohol1 fixed oil1 or solid fat4 ,hence1 as the last-named substances1 aside from the odoriferous materials1 form the foundation of all articles of perfumery1 the manufacturer must devote particular attention to their purity1 and their qualities must be discussed in detail4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,odors ,,from ,,the ,,vegetable ,,kingdom4 ,the odors occurring in plants have their seat mostly in peculiar receptacles called oil glands in which the aromatic substances are stored and seem to take no further part in the vital processes of the plant4 ,as has been intimated1 the parts of the plant in which the aromatic substances are stored differ greatly2 but in general it may be said that in most cases the flowers and fruits contain the odors2 more rarely they may be found in the roots1 in the bark1 or in the wood1 and in very few instances equally distributed throughout the whole plant4 ,in some cases1 however1 we can obtain totally different odors from various parts of the same plant2 this applies1 for instance1 to the orange-tree1 whose blossoms furnish a different odor from the ripe fruits1 and the latter must be distinguished from that obtainable from the leaves4 ,the odorous substances occurring in the vegetable kingdom are either mobile liquids 7essential oils71 or they have a thicker consistence ranging from that of cream to that of soft cheese 7balsams or gum-resins71 or they are solid 7resins74 ,aside from the fact that the term 8essential oils0 is quite incorrect1 since the substances called by that name have nothing in common with oils except perhaps the liquid state1 we are forced from a chemical standpoint to include among them even solid substances2 the well-known camphor1 a firm and waxy-looking body1 belongs according to all its chemical properties into the same group as the so-called essential oils4 ,the name 8essential 7or volatile7 oils0 is due to the fact that the volatile vegetable aromatic substances cause a stain on paper similar to that produced by oils and fats2 but the stain made by the former disappears spontaneously after some time1 while that due to true oils and fats persists4 ,the disappearance of the stain depends on the evaporation of the vegetable aromatic substances--a quality not possessed by fats4 ,hence the volatile vegetable aromatic substances1 in contradistinction from non-volatile fixed or fatty oils1 have been designated as essential or volatile or ethereal oils4 ,inasmuch as the latter terms are the ordinary trade names for these substances1 we are compelled to retain them despite their incorrectness4 ,the ,french name for essential oils is essences2 8essence de lavande10 for instance1 is the ,french name for essential oil of lavender1 and not for an alcoholic solution of the oil1 as might be inferred from the usually accepted meaning of the ,english terms 8essence of lavender10 8essence of peppermint10 etc41 which mean solutions of these essential oils in alcohol4 ,as the localities where the raw materials--that is1 the aromatic plants--are cultivated on a large scale naturally constitute the places of manufacture of essential oils1 we find in southern ,france and in ,england the most extensive factories devoted exclusively to the preparation of perfumes4 ,in the countries named1 a favorable influence is exerted1 too1 by their situation near the sea1 as well as by their trade with tropical lands from which additional aromatic plants are imported4 ,we have stated above that the manufacture of essential oils forms almost a monopoly in ,france and ,england2 but there is no doubt that this country 7the ,united ,states7 likewise possesses many localities favorable to the cultivation of certain aromatic plants and the preparation of essential oils from them1 so that this branch of industry could be carried on at a profit4 ,for this reason we have in our descriptions devoted some attention to the conditions of growth required by such plants as might be raised here4 ,we even find that some advantages are derived from the hot-house cultivation of some tropical plants4 ,an exact knowledge of the chemical properties of a substance is in all cases the first and fundamental condition for its preparation2 it would appear necessary1 therefore1 that we should endeavor to gain complete information about the nature of vegetable aromatic substances before we enter upon the description of the various methods of their preparation4 ,,the ,,chemical ,,constitution ,,of ,,vegetable ,,aromatic ,,substances4 ,the sources of the odors derived from the vegetable kingdom can be divided1 as stated above1 into so-called essential oils1 balsams1 gum-resins or soft resins1 and hard resins4 ,since the latter bear a certain relation to the essential oils from which they are formed through chemical combinations1 we must consider them first4 ,the flowers1 the fruits and their rinds1 or even the wood of some plants form the receptacles of essential oils2 if they are liquid they are called essential oils par excellence2 if they are firm they are called camphors4 ,besides1 there are intermediate states between them3 oil of rose is always viscid and solidifies even at temperatures considerably above the freezing-point of water 7see under ,oil of ,rose74 ,the bodies which are generally called essential oils are usually mixtures of a hydrocarbon with an oxygenated body1 or an unchanged oil with another which has become altered by the influence of the oxygen of the air--a condition to which we shall recur later on4 ,with reference to their elementary composition1 essential oils may be divided into two groups3 #a4 ,non-oxygenated essential oils4 #b4 ,oxygenated essential oils4 ,the non-oxgenated essential oils consist only of two elements--carbon and hydrogen2 the other group1 as the name indicates1 contains a third element in chemical combination1 and consist of carbon1 hydrogen1 and oxygen4 ,most of the essential oils of the first group have the same chemical composition3 ,c#aj;,h#af 7#aj atoms of carbon combined with #af atoms of hydrogen74 ,despite the like chemical composition1 all the essential oils display different physical qualities2 they vary in density1 in refractive power1 in boiling-point 7often by many degrees71 and1 a matter of the greatest importance for our purposes1 in their odor4 ,we may state at once that but few essential oils can be said to have a pleasant odor2 that of most of them is even disagreeable and narcotic to the olfactory nerves2 it is only after the oil has been extremely diluted that the odor begins to become pleasant and to resemble that of the plant from which the oil was derived4 ,according to their physical qualities1 essential oils may be described as fluids of a specific narcotic odor1 colorless but very refractive1 and easily inflammable4 ,only a few essential oils can be produced in such a state of purity as to appear perfectly colorless2 usually they are more or less dark yellow in color1 and some even possess a characteristic tint2 thus oil of acacia is reddish-brown1 oils of rose and absinth are green1 oil of chamomile is blue4 ,but a simple experiment will show that the color is not inseparably connected with the oil1 for certain tinted oils can be obtained perfectly colorless by being distilled with another1 less volatile oil which retains the coloring matter4 ,the boiling-point of essential oils is in general very high --between #afj and #bhh of the centigrade thermometer 7,c471 or #cbj to #eej ,f4 ,the fact that we smell the essential oils in aromatic plants so distinctly despite their high boiling-point is an evidence of their exceedingly strong influence on the olfactory nerves4 ,a peculiar property of essential oils1 which is of great importance in their preparation1 is that of distilling over in large quantities with steam--both ordinary and superheated--that is1 at temperatures at most only slightly exceeding #ajj ,c4 or #bab ,f4 ,for this reason essential oils are usually obtained in this way1 since they are but slightly soluble in water4 ,still1 most of the oils dissolve in water in sufficient amount to impart to it their characteristic odor and thus to render it often very fragrant4 ,aqua ,naph triplex 7orange-flower water71 rose water1 etc41 are such as have been distilled over with the essential oils1 contain a small quantity of the latter in solution1 and hence have a very agreeable odor4 ,all essential oils dissolve readily in strong alcohol1 petroleum ether1 benzol1 bisulphide of carbon1 in liquid and solid fats1 in glycerin1 etc42 we shall again recur to this important subject under the head of the preparation of the essential oils4 ,if a freshly prepared essential oil is at once excluded from the air by being placed in hermetically sealed vessels which it completely fills1 and is kept from the light1 the oil will remain unchanged for any length of time4 ,but if an essential oil is exposed to the air1 a peculiar1 chemical alteration begins1 which proceeds more rapidly and obviously if direct light acts upon the oil at the same time4 ,the odor becomes less intense1 the oil grows darker in color and more viscous1 and also acquires a peculiar quality3 it has a strong bleaching effect which is easily seen on the cork closing the bottle1 which is beautifully bleached4 ,after a certain time the oil changes to a viscid1 less odorous mass1 into balsam1 and the latter1 after the prolonged influence of the air1 finally changes into a brownish1 odorless substance1 into resin4 ,these remarkable physical and chemical alterations depend on the fact that the essential oil absorbs oxygen from the air1 which it puts into a peculiar condition in which it exerts increased chemical activity and is termed ozonized oxygen4 ,one of the most marked of these effects is the uncommonly strong bleaching power of ozonized or active oxygen4 ,when an essential oil that has altered so far as to contain ozonized oxygen--which is shown by its bleaching vegetable coloring matters such as the juice of cherries1 red beets1 tincture of litmus1 etc41 agitated with it--is cooled1 we notice the separation from it of a usually crystalline1 colorless1 and odorless body called stearopten1 while the remaining liquid part is called elopten4 ,stearopten always contains oxygen1 while elopten still consists only of carbon and hydrogen4 ,in the formation of the stearopten we distinctly see the beginning process of resinification1 which1 therefore1 is nothing but an oxidation 7combination of the essential oil with oxygen74 ,it should1 however1 be stated that as to many essential oils this is not proven by actual observation4 ,many of them are not known to us as naturally existing without any stearopten4 ,balsams are essential oils which have to a great extent changed into resin1 which they contain in solution1 and thereby have become more or less viscid4 ,if the process of oxidation goes still farther1 eventually the greater portion of the essential oil becomes oxidized1 the entire mass grows firm1 and then possesses only a very faint odor which is due to the last remnants of the unchanged essential oil4 ,since aromatic substances during evaporation become mixed with air1 it appears probable that they act upon the olfactory nerves only at the moment when they become oxidized4 ,the entire process of resinification of oil of turpentine can be followed very clearly on the pitch pine 7,pinus austriaca1 or other species of ,pinus71 just as oil of turpentine in general can be taken as an example of an essential oil on which the peculiarities of the non-oxygenated essential oils may be easily studied4 ,in many localities the pitch pine is partly deprived of its bark when it has reached a certain age4 ,from the trunk exudes oil of turpentine which in the air becomes more and more viscid by the absorption of oxygen and changes into balsam1 called turpentine4 ,the latter is collected and distilled with water1 when the unchanged oil of turpentine passes over with the steam1 while the odorless resin 7rosin or colophony7 remains behind in the stills4 ,the above-mentioned qualities of the essential oils indicate naturally how those used in perfumery1 which are often very costly1 are to be preserved4 ,for this purpose small strong bottles should be chosen which are closed with well-fitting glass stoppers1 over which is applied a glass capsule ground to fit tightly over the neck of the bottle4 ,these bottles should always be completely filled 7hence small bottles should be selected71 and kept tightly closed1 in the dark4 ,as the action of oxygen is retarded by low temperatures1 it is advisable to keep bottles containing essential oils in a cool cellar4 ,but care must be had never to pour out an essential oil in the cellar near an open candle light4 ,the vapors are very apt to take fire1 as they are quite inflammable4 ,as there are a great many aromatic vegetable substances1 so there are numerous odors1 or1 to retain the customary though incorrect appellation1 numerous essential oils4 ,all of these1 however1 cannot be used in the art of perfumery1 as some of them do not possess a pleasant odor1 as is the case1 for instance1 with oil of turpentine4 7,we may state here1 however1 that very pure oil of turpentine1 distilled from certain ,conifer1 has an agreeable1 refreshing odor which at present has found application in perfumery under the title of forest perfume or pine-needle essence47 ,besides1 there are numerous essential oils which1 while possessing a very pleasant odor1 still cannot be used in perfumery except for very cheap preparations1 though they are employed in much larger quantities in the manufacture of liqueurs4 ,such oils are3 oil of cumin1 fennel1 juniper1 absinth1 etc4 ,as we shall return to this subject in connection with the essential oils which are used in perfumery in general1 we will now consider at greater length the aromatic vegetable substances which are employed for the manufacture of fragrant odors4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,the ,,aromatic ,,vegetable ,,substances ,,employed ,,in ,,perfumery4 ,every fragrant portion of a plant can be used for the preparation of an aromatic substance1 and therefore for the manufacture of a perfume4 ,hence we are unable1 in the following enumeration of the aromatic vegetable substances1 to make any claim to absolute completeness2 for every new scientific expedition may acquaint us with hitherto unknown plants from which the finest odors may be obtained4 ,we have said above that we have not yet even fixed in our perfumes all the odors of the known aromatic plants1 and therefore there is still a large field open to the progressive manufacturer4 ,in the following pages we must restrict ourselves to the description of those aromatic vegetable substances which are used in the laboratories of the most advanced and scientific perfumers for the manufacture of odors4 ,at the same time we lay particular stress on the fact that the knowledge of these raw materials is a matter of the greatest importance to the manufacturer of perfumes because it enables him to appreciate the differences1 often very minute1 between fine and inferior qualities4 ,every manufacturer who aims at the production of fine goods must make it the rule to use nothing but the best raw materials4 ,the price of the latter is apparently disproportionately high2 for all that1 only the most expensive materials should be bought1 for it is the only kind that can be used4 ,let us give but two instances in illustration4 ,we find in the market1 grades of vanilla the prices of which are as one to four2 the latter is fresh and contains the aromatic substance in large amount2 the former is old1 dry1 and worthless1 with an artificial glossy surface and little odor4 ,the differences in the price are still greater in an aromatic substance of animal origin1 musk1 the cheapest grades of which are altogether artificial and perfumed with a mere trace of genuine musk4 ,of course1 the same remark applies to the raw materials of animal origin and to the chemical products1 all of which should be of the greatest purity obtainable4 ,the aromatic substances at present employed in perfumery for the extraction of odors are the following4 ,,allspice4 ,latin--,pimenta2 ,french--,piment2 ,german--,piment2 ,nelkenpfeffer4 ,this spice consists of the fruit berries1 at first green1 later black1 of the ,eugenia ,pimenta1 indigenous to ,central ,america and the ,antilles4 ,it is chiefly used in the manufacture of liqueurs1 less in perfumery1 though it may be employed as an addition to certain strong odors1 particularly that of oil of bay2 it serves very nicely for scenting cheap soap4 ,,anise4 ,latin--,pimpinella ,anisum2 ,french--,anis2 ,german--,anis4 ,this well-known plant1 which is cultivated in many localities on a large scale1 belongs to the ,order of ,umbellifer4 ,the seeds contain about three per cent of a very aromatic essential oil which finds application in the manufacture of soap and in cheap perfumery2 it is chiefly used as a flavoring for liqueurs4 ,good anise must have a light green color1 an agreeable sweetish odor1 and a sharp taste4 ,in order to increase the weight1 anise is occasionally moistened with water2 such seeds look swollen1 are apt to become slimy1 and then furnish a less fragrant oil4 ,anise is not to be confounded with star-anise1 which will be mentioned hereafter4 ,,balm4 ,latin--,melissa officinalis2 ,french--,melisse2 ,german--,melissenkraut4 ,melissa officinalis1 an herbaceous plant with large1 beautiful flowers1 which grows wild in our woods1 contains a very sweet-smelling oil in small quantities4 ,this can be extracted by distillation from the fresh herb1 and furnishes very fine perfumes4 ,oil of ,melissa of the market is1 however1 usually an ,east ,indian oil1 derived from ,andropogon citratus4 ,see under ,citronella4 ,,bay 7,,sweet ,,bay74 ,latin--,laurus nobilis2 ,french--,laurier2 ,german--,lorbeerfrchte4 ,the fruits of the bay-tree contain much essential oil which is used less in the manufacture of perfumery than for scenting soap4 ,venice is the most important point of export4 ,see the next article4 ,,bay 7,,west ,,indian74 ,latin--,myrcia acris2 ,french--7,huile de7 ,bay2 ,german--,bay 7-,oel74 ,the essential oil obtained from the leaves of this tree1 a native of the ,west ,indies1 possesses a very aromatic1 refreshing odor somewhat resembling that of allspice4 ,it is known in the market as bay oil or oil of bay4 ,during the last decade or so its use has largely extended1 and1 while formerly almost unknown on the continent of ,europe1 has become an important article for the perfumer4 ,an alcoholic distillate1 prepared by distilling the fresh leaves with the crude spirit from which rum is otherwise obtained1 is known as bay-rum1 and is used as a pleasant and refreshing wash for the skin4 ,bay-rum may also be made by dissolving the oil1 together with certain other ingredients1 in alcohol4 ,,benzoin4 ,latin--,benzoinum2 ,french--,benjoin2 ,german--,benzoharz4 ,this gum-resin1 which possesses a pleasant vanilla-like odor1 comes from a tree belonging to the ,order of ,styracace1 the ,styrax ,benzoin1 and probably another species of ,styrax1 indigenous to tropical ,asia1 especially ,siam and ,sumatra4 ,the collection of benzoin is very similar to that of pine resin2 the bark of the tree is cut open1 the exuding juice is allowed to harden on the trunk1 and is thus brought into commerce4 ,benzoin differs according to its origin1 the age of the tree1 etc41 and in commerce a number of sorts 7,siam1 ,penang1 ,palembang1 and ,sumatra7 are distinguished4 ,as a rule1 benzoin comes in lumps ranging in size to that of a child's head4 ,they are of a light gray color and inclose white1 almond-shaped pieces4 ,the finest quality1 known as ,siam benzoin after its source1 usually is in small pieces 7,siam benzoin in tears7 which are translucent1 light yellow to brown externally1 but milky white on fracture1 and have a strong vanilla odor4 ,less fine but still very good is ,siam benzoin in lumps1 consisting of large reddish-brown pieces inclosing white particles4 ,all other kinds mentioned above come from the island of ,sumatra1 in lumps the size of a fist4 ,what was formerly known as ,calcutta benzoin formed large friable pieces of a dirty reddish-gray color4 ,siam as well as ,penang benzoin often contains1 besides benzoic acid1 also cinnamic acid2 it is not known why it is not a regular constituent4 ,the worst quality is sold as 8benzoin sorts10 consisting of brownish pieces without white spots2 they are often mixed with splinters of wood1 bast fibres1 and fragments of leaves1 and can be used only for cheap perfumes4 ,good benzoin1 besides the qualities named1 must have a sweetish and burning sharp taste1 it should be very friable1 and when heated in a porcelain capsule should emit vapors 7benzoic acid7 of an acrid taste and a pronounced aromatic odor2 it should dissolve completely in strong alcohol4 ,in perfumery1 benzoin serves for the preparation of many odors1 washes1 and the manufacture of benzoic acid4 ,the latter will be further discussed under the head of aromatic substances obtained by means of chemistry4 ,,bergamot4 ,latin--,citrus ,bergamia2 ,french--,bergamote2 ,german--,bergamottefrchte4 ,the bergamot is the fruit of a tree belonging to the ,order of ,aurantiace1 which is cultivated in ,calabria4 ,the tree is unknown in a wild state4 ,the golden-yellow or greenish-yellow fruits1 resembling a lemon in shape1 have a bitter and at the same time acid pulp2 the thin rind contains a very fragrant oil which is used largely in the manufacture of fine perfumery and soaps1 and is exported chiefly from ,messina and ,palermo4 ,,bitter ,,almonds4 ,latin--,amygdala amara2 ,french--,amandes amres2 ,german--,bittere ,mandeln4 ,the well-known fruits of the bitter almond-tree 7,amygdalus communis1 var4 amara74 ,there are no definite botanical differences between the sweet and the bitter almond-tree4 ,the only distinct difference is the character of the respective fruits4 ,the aromatic substance obtained from bitter almonds is not present fully formed in the fruits1 but results from the chemical transformation of the amygdalin they contain2 the latter body is absent in sweet almonds4 ,,cajuput ,,leaves4 ,latin--,folia ,cajuputi4 ,the leaves of ,melaleuca ,cajuputi1 a tree found in the ,indian and ,malay ,archipelago1 which have an aromatic odor resembling that of cardamoms4 ,in the ,orient the leaves are used as incense and for the extraction of the oil they contain4 ,,camphor ,,wood4 ,latin--,lignum ,camphor2 ,french--,bois de camphre2 ,german--,campherholz4 ,the wood of the ,camphor-tree1 native of ,china and ,japan1 is exceedingly rich in essential oil1 the firm1 white1 and strong-scented camphor4 ,the latter is usually prepared from the wood at the home of the tree1 especially in ,formosa and ,japan1 so that the wood hardly forms an article of commerce and is here enumerated only for completeness' sake4 ,in ,china and in ,japan1 however1 it is largely used for the manufacture of cloth-chests1 trunks and wardrobes1 as these are never invaded by insects4 ,,caraway ,,seed4 ,latin--,semen ,carvi2 ,french--,carvi2 ,german--,kmmelsamen4 ,this plant1 ,carum ,carvi1 which is largely cultivated in ,germany1 contains in its seeds from four to seven per cent of essential oil which is extracted by distillation4 ,genuine caraway seed is brownish-yellow1 pointed at both ends1 quite glabrous on examination with a lens1 and marked with five longitudinal ribs4 ,caraway is occasionally confounded with cumin seed1 from ,cuminum ,cyminum1 which is easily recognized with a lens3 the seeds of the latter plant have fourteen longitudinal ribs and are hairy4 ,the use of caraway in perfumery is limited to ordinary goods1 but in the manufacture of liqueurs it is largely employed4 ,,cascarilla ,,bark4 ,latin--,cortex ,cascarill2 ,french--,cascarille2 ,german--,cascarillarinde4 ,this is the bark of a ,west ,indian tree1 ,croton ,eluteria1 belonging to the ,order of ,euphorbiace1 native of the ,bahamas4 ,it occurs in commerce in the shape of pieces the length and thickness of a finger2 externally it is white and fissured1 internally of a brown color and resinous4 ,good qualities should be free from dust and fractured pieces 7sifted cascarilla71 of a warm aromatic taste1 and a very agreeable odor which becomes more marked on being heated4 ,another variety of cascarilla derived from ,south ,africa1 ,cascarilla gratissima1 has very fragrant leaves which can be used immediately as incense1 just as cascarilla in general is employed in perfumery chiefly for fumigating powders and waters4 ,,cassie4 ,latin--,acacia farnesiana2 ,french--,cassie2 ,german--,acacie4 ,the flowers of ,acacia farnesiana 7,willd471 one of the true acacias1 native of the ,east ,indies1 which flourishes farther north than the other varieties1 cultivated largely in southern ,france for the delightful odor which resembles that of violets but is more intense4 ,the flowers are collected and made to yield their odorous principle by one of the methods to be described hereafter4 ,the plant which is generally but falsely called ,acacia in this country1 viz41 ,robinia pseudoacacia1 likewise bears very fragrant flowers which undoubtedly can be made to yield a perfume by some one of the usual methods2 but so far we know of no perfume into which the odor of ,robinia flowers enters4 ,moreover1 it is not alone the flowers of ,acacia farnesiana which may be utilized for the preparation of the cassie perfume2 the black currant1 ,ribes niger1 contains in its flowers an odor closely resembling the former2 this is actually used in the preparation of an oil sold under the name of 8oil of cassie40 ,the latter plant flourishes in our northern ,states and would answer as a substitute for ,acacia farnesiana1 which cannot stand our northern winters4 ,,cedar ,,wood4 ,latin--,lignum ,cedri2 ,french--,bois de cdre2 ,german--,cedernholz4 ,the wood met with in commerce is derived from the ,virginian juniper tree1 ,juniperus virginiana1 which is used in large quantities for inclosing lead pencils4 ,the chips1 the offal from this manufacture1 can be employed with advantage for the extraction of the essential oil contained therein4 ,long uniform shavings of this wood are also used for fumigation1 and the sawdust for cheap sachet powders4 ,cedar wood is reddish-brown1 fragrant1 very soft1 and splits easily4 ,in the perfumery industry it usually passes under the name of the 8cedar of ,lebanon10 although the wood from the last-mentioned tree 7,cedrus libanotica7 has quite a different agreeable odor1 is very firm1 reddish-brown1 and of a very bitter taste--qualities by which it is readily distinguished from the other4 ,,cinnamon4 ,latin--,cinnamomum2 ,french--,canelle2 ,german--,zimmtrinde4 ,cinnamon consists of the bark of the young twigs of the cinnamon-tree1 ,cinnamomum zeylanicum1 indigenous to ,ceylon4 ,good cinnamon consists of thin1 tubular1 rolled pieces of bark which are smooth1 light brown 7darker on fracture71 of a pronounced characteristic odor1 and a burning and at the same time sweet taste4 ,the most valuable in commerce is that from ,ceylon2 the thicker bark is less fine4 ,chinese cinnamon or cassia 7,french1 ,cassie2 ,german1 ,zimmtcassia7 consists of the bark of the cassia-tree1 an undetermined species of ,cinnamomum indigenous to ,southern ,china2 this is grayish-brown and has the general properties of true cinnamon1 but it as well as the oil extracted from it has a less fine odor than cinnamon or oil of cinnamon4 ,a very fine kind of ,cinnamon has for a number of years past appeared on the market under the name of ,saigon cinnamon4 ,it is very rich in oil1 and is exported from ,cochin-,china4 ,besides the true oils of cinnamon and cassia1 other essential oils are met with in commerce under the names of oil of cinnamon flowers and oil of cinnamon leaves1 but their odor is not so fine as that of the former4 ,the so-called cinnamon flowers are the unripe fruits of various cinnamon laurels1 collected after the fall of the blossoms4 ,they form brownish cones the length of the nail of the little finger1 and furnish an essential oil whose odor resembles that of cinnamon4 ,,citron4 ,latin--,fructus ,citri2 ,french--,citron2 ,german--,citronenfrchte4 ,the fruit of a tree1 ,citrus medica1 indigenous to northern ,india1 but largely cultivated in the countries situated around the ,mediterranean and in other countries4 ,it is cultivated both for the pleasant acid juice of the fruit and for their fragrant rinds4 ,only the latter are of value for our purposes4 ,it occurs in ,european commerce under the name of ,citronat or citron peel4 ,good commercial citron peel should be in quarters and as fresh as possible1 which is shown by its softness1 the yellow color1 and the strong odor4 ,old peel looks shrunken and brownish and has but little pleasant odor4 ,,citron ,,flowers4 ,latin--,flores ,citri2 ,french--,fleurs de citron2 ,german--,citronenblthen4 ,the flowers of the citron-tree 7,citrus medica7 are white1 fragrant1 and contain a very aromatic essential oil2 but as the oil is always extracted from the fresh flowers1 the latter do not form an article of commerce4 ,,cherrylaurel ,,leaves4 ,latin--,folia ,laurocerasi2 ,french--,laurier-crise2 ,german--,kirschlorbeerbltter4 ,the leaves of this tree 7,prunus ,laurocerasus71 which is largely cultivated for officinal purposes1 furnish an odorous substance completely identical with that contained in bitter almonds1 or1 rather1 formed in them under certain conditions4 ,as the extraction of the odorous substance from bitter almonds is much cheaper1 cherry-laurel is but rarely used4 ,,citronella4 ,latin--,andropogon ,nardus2 ,french--,citronelle2 ,german--,citronella4 ,this grass1 which1 like the oil prepared from it1 is called citronella1 is a native of northern ,india1 and is largely cultivated in ,ceylon1 where large quantities are worked for the oil2 for this reason the grass itself is seldom met with in commerce4 ,its odor is somewhat similar to that of the ,indian lemon grass1 that of verbena1 and that of several other aromatic plants1 in place of which citronella is frequently employed4 ,much confusion exists in much of the current literature regarding the source and synonymy of the ,indian grass oils and allied products4 ,the following list contains the most important ones3 #a4 ,andropogon citratus ,,dc4--,lemon ,grass4 ,the oil is known as ,lemon ,grass ,oil1 ,indian ,verbena ,oil or ,indian ,melissa ,oil1 or simply ,oil of ,verbena or ,oil of ,melissa4 #b4 ,andropogon laniger ,desf4--,this is the ,juncus odoratus or ,herba ,schoenanthi of older pharmacy4 ,no oil is prepared from this4 #c4 ,andropogon muricatus ,retz4--,cuscus or ,vetiver4 ,source of ,oil of ,vetiver4 #d4 ,andropogon nardus ,l4--,citronella4 ,source of ,oil of ,citronella4 #e4 ,andropogon ,schoenanthus ,l4--,ginger ,grass4 ,the oil is known as ,oil of ,ginger ,grass1 ,oil of ,geranium ,grass1 ,oil of ,indian ,geranium or simply ,oil of ,geranium1 also ,oil of ,rose ,geranium 8,rose0 is here a corruption of the ,hindostanee name of the plant1 viz41 ,rusa1 ,oil of ,rusa ,grass1 ,oil of ,rusa1 ,oil of ,palmarosa4--,the two terms 8,oil of ,geranium0 and 8,oil of ,rose ,geranium0 should be abandoned for this oil1 to avoid confusion with the 8,oil of 7,rose7 ,geranium0 obtained from ,pelargonium4 ,see under 8,geranium40 ,,clove4 ,latin--,caryophylli2 ,french--,clous de girofle2 ,german--,nelkengewrz4 ,this well-known spice comes from a tree1 ,caryophyllus aromaticus1 native of the ,moluccas1 and largely cultivated at ,zanzibar1 ,pemba1 and elsewhere4 ,it consists of the closed buds4 ,the main essential of good quality is the greatest possible freshness1 which may be recognized by the cloves being full1 heavy1 reddish-brown1 and of a fatty aspect1 and they must contain so much essential oil 7about #ah per cent7 that when crushed between the fingers the latter should be stained yellowish-brown4 ,before buying1 this test should always be made1 and attention paid to the fact whether the whitish dust is present in the wrinkles about the head4 ,we have found in commerce cloves from which the essential oil had been fraudulently extracted with alcohol and hence were worthless2 such cloves may be recognized by the faint odor and taste1 but especially by the absence of the whitish dust4 ,,cucumber4 ,latin--,cucumis sativus2 ,french--,concombre2 ,german--,gurke4 ,the well-known fruits of this kitchen-garden plant1 though not strictly sweet-scented1 possess a peculiar refreshing odor which has found application in perfumery4 ,certain products belonging under this head require the odor of cucumber1 and therefore this plant is to be included among the aromatic plants in a wider sense4 ,,culilaban ,,bark4 ,latin--,cortex ,culilavan2 ,french--,ecorce culilaban2 ,german--,kulilabanrinde4 ,the bark of ,cinnamomum ,culilavan ,nees1 a plant indigenous to the ,molucca islands1 used to occur in commerce in the shape of long1 flat pieces of a yellowish-brown color1 with an odor like a mixture of cinnamon1 sassafras1 and clove oils4 ,it is rarely met with now4 ,,dill4 ,latin--,semen ,anethi2 ,french--,aneth2 ,german--,dillsamen4 ,this plant1 ,anethum graveolens1 which is indigenous to the ,mediterranean region and southern ,russia1 contains in all its parts1 particularly in the seeds1 an oil of a peculiar odor1 which is used as a perfume for soap1 also in cheap perfumery1 and especially as a flavoring for liqueurs4 ,,elder ,,flowers4 ,latin--,flores ,sambuci2 ,french--,sureau2 ,german--,hollunderblthen4 ,this bush1 ,sambucus niger1 which grows wild in ,europe1 bears umbellar flowers which are officinal1 but contain besides a pleasant odor which can be extracted from them4 ,the odor of the flowers deteriorates on drying1 hence in perfumery only the fresh flowers should be used4 ,the ,american elder 7,sambucus canadensis7 could easily be used in place of it4 ,,fennel 7,,seed ,,and ,,herb74 ,latin--,fniculum2 ,french--,fenouil2 ,german--,fenchel4 ,this plant1 ,fniculum vulgare1 ,order ,umbellifer1 is largely cultivated in ,europe4 ,it contains an essential oil in all its parts1 but especially in the seeds4 ,the plant is rarely used in perfumery1 but more frequently in the manufacture of liqueurs4 ,the herb1 dried and comminuted1 enters into the composition of some cheap sachets4 ,,frangipanni 7see ,plumeria74 ,,geranium4 ,latin--,pelargonium roseum2 ,french--,granium2 ,german--,geranium4 ,this plant1 originally indigenous in ,south ,africa1 contains in its leaves an essential oil whose odor closely resembles that of roses4 ,at present it is cultivated on a large scale in many parts of ,france and in ,turkey1 solely for the purposes of perfumery4 ,this plant would grow freely in our ,southern and ,middle ,states1 and could be cultivated with advantage for the extraction of its highly valued perfume4 ,the terms 8,oil of ,geranium0 and 8,oil of ,rose ,geranium0 ought to be restricted in commerce to the oil obtained from true geranium 7,pelargonium74 ,unfortunately1 they are yet very commonly applied to an ,east ,indian oil obtained from a species of ,andropogon 7see under ,citronella74 ,hedyosmum ,flowers4 ,on the ,antilles there are a number of bushes belonging to the ,genus ,hedyosmum1 ,order ,chloranthace1 whose flowers possess a magnificent1 truly intoxicating odor4 ,thus far these odors seem to have been accessible only to ,english perfumers4 ,the perfumes sold under this name by ,continental manufacturers are merely combinations of different odors4 ,,heliotrope4 ,latin--,heliotropium peruvianum2 ,french--,hliotrope2 ,german--,heliotropenblthen4 ,the flowers of this plant1 which flourishes well in all temperate or tropic countries1 possess a very pleasant odor1 about the preparation of which we shall have more to say hereafter4 ,in ,europe only ,french perfumers have manufactured it2 according to the author's experiments1 however1 its extraction presents no more difficulty than that of any other plant4 ,a synthetic1 chemical product1 known as piperonal1 related to vanillin and cumarin1 possesses the odor of the heliotrope in a most remarkable degree4 ,it is therefore much used to imitate the latter4 ,in commerce it is known as heliotropin4 ,,honeysuckle4 ,latin--,flores ,lonicer2 ,french--,chvre-feuille2 ,german-- ,geisblattblthen4 ,this well-known climbing plant1 ,lonicera ,caprifolium1 found in many of our garden bowers1 contains an exceedingly fragrant oil in its numerous flowers1 from which the author has prepared it4 ,some of the ,american species of honeysuckle would1 no doubt1 likewise yield an essential oil4 ,the oil sold in commerce under this name is not obtained from these flowers1 but is an imitation of the odor conventionally accepted for it4 ,the true oil of honeysuckle1 first prepared by the author1 far surpasses these imitations in fragrance4 ,,hyssop4 ,latin--,hyssopus officinalis2 ,french--,hyssope2 ,german--,ysopkraut4 ,hyssop possesses a strong odor1 a very bitter taste1 and is used only for cheap perfumery1 but more frequently in the manufacture of liqueurs4 ,,jasmine4 ,latin--,jasminum odoratissimum2 ,french--,jasmin2 ,german--,jasminblthen4 ,true jasmine--not to be confounded with ,german jasmine 7,philadelphus coronarius1 known here as the mock orange1 or the ,syringa of cultivation7 which is likewise employed in perfumery--flourishes particularly in the coast lands of the ,mediterranean1 where it is cultivated as a dwarf tree4 ,the odor obtained from the flowers is one of the finest and most expensive in existence1 and for this reason it would be well worth trying the cultivation in our southern ,states4 ,at present nearly all the true jasmine perfume 7pomade1 extract1 etc47 comes from ,france4 ,,lavender4 ,latin--,lavandula vera2 ,french--,lavande2 ,german--,lavendel4 ,true lavender1 which belongs to the ,order of ,labiat that contains many aromatic plants1 is one of the most ancient in our art2 it was early used in ,greece for purposes of perfumery4 ,although true lavender flourishes throughout central ,europe1 its cultivation on a large scale is carried on chiefly in ,england1 and the oil of lavender from ,english factories is most highly prized4 ,much lavender is also grown in ,france1 but the product1 though very fine1 has a much lower value4 ,true lavender is to be distinguished from spike-lavender 7,french1 aspic2 ,german1 ,spik-,lavendel71 whose odor is similar to that of true lavender1 but furnishes a much less aromatic perfume4 ,the cultivation of lavender in this country 7,u4 ,s47 might give good results4 ,,lemon4 ,latin--,citrus ,limonum2 ,french--,limon2 ,german--,limonenfrchte4 ,the fruits of the ,south ,european lemon-tree1 not to be confounded with citrons1 resemble the latter in appearance1 but they are smaller1 have a more acid taste and a thinner rind4 ,the peel contains an essential oil which is very similar in odor to that of the citron4 ,hence the oils of lemon1 limetta 7from ,citrus ,limetta71 and citron are used for the same purposes2 but when the three oils are immediately compared1 an experienced olfactory organ perceives a marked difference between them4 ,,lemon ,,grass4 ,latin--,andropogon citrates2 ,french--,schoenanthe2 ,german--,citronengrass4 ,this grass1 which bears a close resemblance to citronella1 is largely cultivated1 especially in ,india and ,ceylon1 for the essential oil it contains4 ,the odor of the grass is similar to that of verbena1 so that its oil is often used as an adulterant or rather as a substitute for the former4 7,compare the article on 8,citronella407 ,,lilac4 ,latin--,flores ,syring2 ,french--,lilas2 ,german--,fliederblthen4 ,this plant1 ,syringa vulgaris1 a native of ,persia but fully acclimated in ,europe and in this country1 has very fragrant flowers1 the odor of which can be obtained only from the fresh blossoms4 ,a recently discovered liquid principle1 now known as terpineol 7,c#aj;,h#ag,,oh71 which exists in many essential oils1 and in these1 in the portion boiling between #dbj and #dbd ,f41 possesses the lilac odor in a most pronounced degree1 and to its presence in the lilac flowers the peculiar odor of the latter is1 no doubt1 due4 ,it is obtainable in the market under the name lilacine4 ,the ,syringa of the florists is not the true lilac1 but the same as the ,mock ,orange1 viz41 ,philadelphus coronarius4 ,,lily4 ,latin--,lilium candidum2 ,french--,lis2 ,german--,lilienblthen4 ,the remarks made under the head of ,wallflower apply equally to the blossoms of the white garden lily3 strange to say1 they are not used in perfumery1 and all the so-called odors of lily are mixtures of several aromatic substances4 ,the author has succeeded in separating from the flowers1 by means of petroleum ether1 the delightful odor present in large amount in the blossoms of this plant1 and has employed it in the manufacture of magnificent perfumes4 ,,mace4 ,latin--,macis2 ,french--,macis2 ,german--,muscatblthe4 ,this substance is the dried arillus covering the fruits of ,myristica fragrans1 the so-called nutmegs4 ,the tree bearing them is indigenous to a group of islands in the ,indian ,archipelago and is cultivated especially on the ,molucca islands4 ,although mace is in such close relation with nutmeg1 yet1 strange to say1 the aromatic substance differs decidedly from that of the nut4 ,mace of good quality forms pieces of orange-yellow color2 they are fleshy1 usually slit open on one side1 have a strong odor1 tear with difficulty1 and are so oily that when crushed they stain the fingers brownish-yellow4 ,mace is largely used in the preparation of sachets and particularly for scenting soap4 ,in ,england1 soap scented with mace is well liked4 ,,magnolia4 ,latin--,magnolia grandiflora2 ,french--,magnolia2 ,german--,magnoliablthen4 ,the magnolia 7,magnolia grandiflora71 indigenous to the warmer parts of ,south1 ,central1 and ,north ,america1 bears large white flowers having a delightful odor which can be extracted by means of petroleum ether4 ,in the same way1 truly intoxicating perfumes may be obtained from other varieties of magnolia4 ,in our climate these plants flourish only in conservatories1 and in their home no steps have yet been taken to utilize these natural treasures in a proper way2 hence ,european manufacturers invariably produce the perfume called magnolia by combination of different odors4 ,,marjoram4 ,latin--,herba majoran2 ,french--,marjolaine2 ,german--,majorankraut4 ,this plant1 ,origanum ,majorana 7vulgare71 frequently cultivated in kitchen gardens1 possesses in all its parts a strong odor due to an essential oil4 ,the latter1 which is quite expensive1 is but little used1 and probably only for culinary purposes4 8,oil of ,origanum0 in ,english-speaking countries is intended to mean ,oil of ,thyme 7from ,thymus vulgaris71 and never means ,oil of ,marjoram4 ,,meadow ,,sweet4 ,latin--,spira ulmaria2 ,french--,reine des prs2 ,german--,spierstaude4 ,this plant is frequent in ,europe on damp meadows1 and contains an aromatic substance closely allied to oil of wintergreen1 which occurs also in the ,canadian variety4 ,,mint4 ,latin--,mentha2 ,french--,menthe2 ,german--,minze4 ,the varieties of mint claiming our attention are the following3 ,mentha piperita1 ,peppermint 7,french3 ,menthe poivre2 ,german3 ,pfefferminze74--,mentha viridis1 ,spearmint 7,french3 ,menthe verte2 ,german3 ,grne ,minze74--,mentha crispa1 ,crisp ,mint 7,french3 ,menthe crpue or frise2 ,german3 ,krause ,minze74 ,all of the mints have a pleasant odor2 besides the plants named above1 we may mention ,mentha aquatica1 whose odor faintly but distinctly recalls that of musk4 ,like lavender1 ,mentha crispa and ,m4 piperita are cultivated particularly in ,england1 and the ,english oils are the most superior4 ,mentha piperita is also largely cultivated in the ,united ,states4 ,mentha viridis and its oil are almost exclusively confined to this country4 ,,musk-,,seed4 ,latin--,semen ,abelmoschi2 ,french--,grains d'ambrette2 ,german--,bisamkrner4 ,the tree1 ,hibiscus ,abelmoschus1 indigenous to ,africa and ,india1 bears fruit capsules containing reddish-gray seeds with grooved surface1 so-called musk-seeds4 ,they have an odor resembling musk1 but much weaker1 though it becomes more pronounced when the seeds are bruised4 ,besides this species of ,hibiscus1 other plants belonging to the same order are aromatic and are also used in perfumery4 ,,myrrh4 ,latin--,myrrha2 ,french--,myrrhe2 ,german--,myrrhe4 ,the gum-resin which we call myrrh has long been known in the ,east1 where it was celebrated as one of the finest perfumes1 along with spikenard and frankincense4 ,the tree1 ,balsamodendron ,myrrha 7or ,commiphora ,myrrha ,engler7 is indigenous to the countries bordering the ,red ,sea to about #bb ,n4 ,lat42 the gum exudes partly spontaneously from the trunk4 ,in ,european commerce myrrh appears in different sorts2 that called myrrha electa or myrrha in lacrimis is the most precious2 it forms tears of a golden yellow to brown color1 traversed by white veins2 they have a pleasant smell4 ,that called myrrha naturalis is inferior1 but on being heated develops the characteristic aroma4 ,in commerce a product is sometimes offered by the name of myrrh which is nothing but cherry-tree gum scented with genuine myrrh4 ,,myrtle ,,leaves4 ,latin--,myrtus communis2 ,french--,myrte2 ,german--,myrtenbltter4 ,the leaves of this ,southern ,european plant diffuse a pleasant odor2 the oil to which it is due can be extracted by distillation2 yet the perfumes usually called myrtle are not obtained from the plant1 but are made by the combination of several aromatic substances4 ,the aromatic water known1 especially in ,france1 as 8eau d'anges0 is obtained by the distillation of myrtle leaves with water4 ,,narcissus4 ,latin--,narcissus poeticus2 ,french--,narcisse2 ,german--,narcissenblthen4 ,the blossoms of this favorite garden plant1 which is cultivated on a large scale near ,nice1 have a pleasant1 almost narcotic odor which may be extracted in various ways2 though the greatest part of the so-called narcissus perfumes are made artificially4 ,another species of ,narcissus 7,narcissus ,jonquilla7 is frequently cultivated in warm countries for its pleasant scent2 but the perfumes generally found in the market under the name of ,extract1 etc41 of ,jonquil are artificial compounds4 ,,nutmeg4 ,latin--,myristica2 ,french--,muscade2 ,german--,muscatnsse4 ,these nuts are almost spherical in shape1 the size of a small walnut1 of a grayish-brown color externally1 and usually coated with a faint whitish-gray covering 7which is lime74 ,internally they are reddish-brown1 with white marbled spots4 ,good fresh nutmegs should be dense1 heavy1 and so oily that when pierced with a needle a drop of oil should follow the withdrawal of the latter4 ,nuts which are hollow1 wormy1 and of a faint odor cannot be used in perfumery4 ,oil of nutmeg is used extensively in perfumery1 but is rarely employed pure1 more commonly in combination with other strong odors4 ,,olibanum4 ,latin--,olibanum2 ,french--,encens2 ,german--,weihrauch4 ,this gum-resin1 employed even by the ancient civilized nations of ,asia1 especially as incense for religious purposes1 comes from ,east ,african trees1 various species of ,boswellia4 ,fine olibanum appears in light yellow tears1 very transparent and hard1 whose pleasant though faint odor becomes particularly marked when it is thrown on hot coals4 ,in perfumery olibanum is used almost exclusively for pastils1 fumigating powders1 etc4 ,pulverulent olibanum constitutes an inferior quality and is often adulterated with pine resin4 ,,opopanax4 ,latin--,resina ,opopanax4 ,the root stock of an umbelliferous plant1 indigenous in ,syria1 now recognized at ,balsamodendron ,kafal1 furnishes a yellow milky sap containing an aromatic resin with an odor resembling that of gum ammoniacum4 ,at least the opopanax now obtainable in the market is derived from this source4 ,true opopanax resin1 such as used to reach the market formerly1 is now unobtainable1 and its true source is yet unknown4 ,opopanax oil is used in perfumery to some extent4 ,,orange ,,flowers4 ,latin--,flores ,aurantii2 ,french--,fleurs d'oranges2 ,german--,orangenblthen4 ,the flowers of the bitter orange tree 7,citrus vulgaris71 as well as those of the sweet 7,citrus ,aurantium71 contain very fragrant essential oils1 which differ in flavor and value according to their source and mode of preparation4 ,see below1 under ,oil of ,orange4 ,the leaves1 too1 contain a peculiar oil used in perfumery4 ,,orange ,,peel4 ,latin--,cortex ,aurantii2 ,french--,ecorce d'oranges2 ,german--,orangenschalen4 ,the very oily rinds of the orange occur in commerce in a dried form2 such peels1 however1 can be used only in the manufacture of liqueurs2 in perfumery nothing but the oil from the fresh rinds is employed1 and this is generally obtained by pressure4 ,,origanum4 ,see ,marjoram1 and ,thyme4 ,,orris ,,root4 ,latin--,radix ,iridis florentin2 ,french--,iris2 ,german--,veilchenwurzel4 ,the ,florentine sword-lily1 ,iris florentina1 which often grows wild in ,italy but is largely cultivated1 has a creeping root-stock covered with a brown bark which1 however1 is peeled from the fresh root4 ,orris root occurs in commerce in whitish pieces which are sometimes forked2 the surface is knotty1 and the size may reach the thickness of a thumb and the length of a finger4 ,when fresh1 the roots have a disagreeable sharp odor1 but on drying they attain an odor which may be said to resemble that of the violet2 but on comparing the two odors immediately1 a considerable difference is perceptible even to the untrained olfactory sense4 ,orris root should be as fresh as possible2 this may be recognized by its toughness1 the great weight1 and the white1 not yellow color on fracture4 ,it is very frequently used for sachets and for fixing other odors4 ,,palm ,,oil4 ,latin--,oleum ,palm2 ,french--,huile de ,palme2 ,german--,palml4 ,palm oil1 a fixed oil derived from ,elais guineensis1 possesses a peculiar odor faintly recalling that of violets which is easily extracted4 ,although not used thus far in perfumery1 personal experiments have convinced the author that the odor can be employed in the manufacture of cheap perfumes4 ,,patchouly4 ,latin--,pogostemon ,patchouly2 ,french--,patchouly2 ,german--,patschulikraut4 ,this herb1 indigenous to the ,east ,indies and ,china1 in appearance somewhat resembling our garden sage1 is used in the countries named as one of the most common perfumes2 many ,east ,indian and ,chinese goods 7such as ,cashmere shawls1 ,india ink1 etc47 owe their peculiar odor to the patchouly herb which is very productive4 ,in this respect it can be compared only with the nutmeg1 but exceeds even this in intensity4 ,this herb is not known very long in ,europe1 but at present it is imported in large quantities from ,india2 in commerce it occurs in small bundles consisting of stems and leaves 7collected before flowering74 ,,peru ,,balsam4 ,latin--,balsamum peruvianum2 ,french--,beaume du ,prou2 ,german--,perubalsam4 ,this balsam1 imported from ,central ,america 7,san ,salvador71 is derived from ,toluifera ,pereir2 incisions are made in the bark and trunk of the tree1 from which the balsam exudes4 ,peru balsam is of a syrupy consistence1 thick and viscid1 brownish-red in thin1 blackish-brown in thick layers4 ,its taste is pungent1 sharp1 and bitter1 afterward acrid2 its odor is somewhat smoky1 but agreeable and balsamic4 ,peru balsam is often sophisticated with fixed oil2 this can be readily detected by agitation with alcohol1 by which the oil is separated4 ,but if castor oil is the adulterant1 this test is not applicable1 as castor oil dissolves with equal facility in alcohol4 ,,pine-,,apple4 ,latin--,bromelia ,ananas2 ,french--,ananas2 ,german--,ananas4 ,the fruits of this plant1 originally derived from the ,east ,indies1 have a well-known narcotic odor which can be extracted from them4 ,in commerce we often meet with a chemical product called pine-apple ether which will be described at greater length under the head of chemical products used in perfumery4 ,pine-apple ether has an odor usually considered to be like that of the fruit1 but when the two substances are immediately compared a great difference will be detected4 ,pine-apple ether finds quite extensive application in confectionery for the preparation of lemonades1 punch1 ices1 etc4 ,if the true pine-apple odor is to be prepared from the fruits1 care must be had to use ripe fruits2 the unripe or overripe fruits possess a less delicate aroma4 ,,pink4 ,latin--,dianthus ,caryophyllus2 ,french--illet2 ,german--,nelkenblthen4 ,the odor of this favorite garden plant can be easily extracted from the flowers by means of petroleum ether2 but the genuine odor of pink is hardly ever met with in perfumery2 the preparations sold under this name being usually artificial mixtures of other odors4 ,,plumeria4 ,latin--,plumeria2 ,french--,plumeria2 ,german--,plumeriablthen4 ,all the ,plumerias1 indigenous to the ,antilles1 contain very fragrant odors in their flowers4 ,to the best of our knowledge1 these odors have not yet been extracted from the flowers1 and all the perfumes sold under this name 7sometimes also called ,frangipanni7 are merely combinations of different odors4 ,,reseda 7,,mignonette74 ,latin--,reseda odorata2 ,french--,mignonette2 ,german--,reseda4 ,this herbaceous plant1 probably indigenous to northern ,africa1 but long domesticated in ,europe and cultivated in gardens1 is well known for its refreshing odor4 ,the latter1 however1 is very difficult to extract and is yielded only to the method of absorption 7enfleurage74 ,the true odor of reseda1 owing to the mode of its preparation1 is very expensive1 and for this reason nearly all perfumes sold under this name are produced from other aromatic substances4 ,,rhodium4 ,latin--,lignum ,rhodii2 ,french--,bois de rose2 ,german--,rosenholz4 ,this is derived from two climbing plants1 ,convolvulus scoparius and ,convolvulus floridus1 indigenous to the ,canary islands1 and is the root wood of these plants4 ,its odor resembles that of the rose1 and the wood is frequently used for cheap sachets and for the extraction of the contained essential oil which was formerly 7before oil of rose geranium was made on the large scale7 employed for the adulteration of genuine oil of rose4 ,,rose4 ,latin--,rosa2 ,french--,rose2 ,german--,rosenblthen4 ,horticulture has produced innumerable varieties from wild species of roses1 which differ in size1 form1 color1 as well as in odor4 ,we instance here only the various odors exhaled by tea roses and moss roses4 ,accordingly1 perfumers likewise distinguish different odors of roses4 ,cultivated on a large scale exclusively for the extraction of the essential oil1 we find different varieties of roses in ,india1 in ,european ,turkey 7,rosa ,damascena71 in ,persia1 and in ,southern ,france4 ,in this country 7,u4 ,s471 too1 oil of roses could be manufactured with advantage4 ,the wild rose1 sweet brier1 ,french glantine1 possesses a delicate but very fugitive odor1 and therefore the perfume sold as wild rose is usually prepared from other substances with the addition of oil of roses4 ,the same remark applies to the odor called 8white rose0 and to those sold as 8tea rose10 8moss rose10 etc4 ,,rosemary4 ,latin--,rosmarinus officinalis2 ,french--,romarin2 ,german--,rosmarin4 ,this plant1 indigenous to ,southern and ,central ,europe1 contains pretty large quantities of an aromatic oil in its leaves and flowers2 the oil has a refreshing odor and therefore is frequently added in small amounts to fine perfumes4 ,,rue4 ,latin--,ruta graveolens2 ,french--,rue2 ,german--,raute4 ,this plant1 cultivated in our gardens and also growing wild here1 has long been employed for its strong odor2 in perfumery rue1 in a dry state as well as its oil1 is occasionally used4 ,,sage4 ,latin--,salvia officinalis2 ,french--,sauge2 ,german--,salbei4 ,all varieties of sage1 the one named being found most frequently growing wild in the meadows of ,southern ,europe1 and extensively cultivated in ,europe and in this country1 possess a very agreeable1 refreshing odor which adheres for a long time even to the dried leaves2 these are therefore very suitable for sachets1 tooth powders1 etc4 ,,santal ,,wood4 ,latin--,santalum album2 ,french--,santal2 ,german--,santalholz4 ,the tree from which this wood is derived is indigenous to ,eastern ,asia1 to the ,sunda ,islands4 ,the wood is soft1 very fragrant1 and is also erroneously called sandal wood4 ,the latter is of a dark reddish-brown color1 not fragrant1 and is derived from ,pterocarpus santalinus1 a tree indigenous to ,southern ,india1 and the ,philippine ,islands2 it is of value to the dyer and the cabinet-maker1 but to the perfumer only for coloring some tinctures4 ,for the purposes of perfumery use can be made only of santal wood 7white or yellow santal wood7 which possesses a very pleasant odor resembling that of oil of rose4 ,formerly essential oil of santal was employed for the adulteration of oil of rose4 ,white and yellow santal wood comes from the same tree--the former from the smaller trunks of ,santalum album4 ,,sassafras4 ,latin--,lignum ,sassafras2 ,french--,sassafras2 ,german--,sassafrasholz4 ,sassafras wood1 derived from the root of the ,american tree ,sassafras officinalis1 appears in commerce in large bundles4 ,it has a strong peculiar odor2 in the bark of the root the odor is even more marked4 ,in the ,european drug trade ,sassafras saw dust is also met with1 but this is not rarely mixed with pine saw dust which has been moistened with fennel water and again dried4 ,in perfumery sassafras wood is less used for the manufacture of volatile odors than for scenting soap4 ,since the principal constituent of oil of sassafras1 viz41 safrol1 has been found to be contained in the crude oil of ,japanese camphor1 the latter has to a very large extent taken the place of the natural oil4 ,,spikenard4 ,latin--,nardostachys ,jatamansi2 ,french--,spic-nard2 ,german--,nardenkraut4 ,this plant1 belonging to the ,order of ,valerianace1 which generally possess a strong and more or less unpleasant odor1 forms one of the main objects of ,oriental perfumery2 in the ,east ,indies1 where the plant grows wild on the mountains1 the odor is held about in the same estimation as that of roses1 violets1 etc41 in ,europe4 ,spikenard was probably known to the ancient ,babylonians and ,assyrians1 for in the ,bible1 in the ,song of ,solomon1 we find this plant repeatedly mentioned and praised for its pleasant odor4 ,as the odor of spikenard is not appreciated in ,europe1 the plant is rarely met with in commerce4 ,all parts of the plant are aromatic1 but use is chiefly made of the root1 consisting of fine fibres which are tied in bundles the thickness of a finger4 ,,star-,,anise4 ,latin--,illicium2 ,semen ,anisi stellati2 ,french--,badiane2 ,german--,sternanis4 ,star-anise occurs in commerce in the form of eight-chambered capsules1 each compartment containing one glossy seed1 and is derived from a ,chinese tree1 ,illicium anisatum4 ,the fruits are brown1 woody2 the seed has a sweetish taste and an odor resembling that of anise4 ,outside of perfumery star-anise is used in the manufacture of liqueurs4 ,recently a drug has appeared in commerce under the name of star-anise which possesses poisonous qualities1 and is derived from another variety of ,illicium 7,illicium religiosum74 ,while this may be of no consequence to the perfumer1 it is important to the manufacturer of liqueurs who always uses star-anise for fine goods and never oil of anise4 ,,storax4 ,latin--,styrax2 ,french--,styrax2 ,german--,storax4 ,this product which belongs among the balsams is derived from a small tree1 ,liquidambar orientalis1 and is obtained from the bark by heating with water1 and also by pressure4 ,it forms a viscid mass like turpentine1 has a gray color1 a burning sharp taste1 an agreeable odor1 and is easily soluble in strong alcohol2 but the odor becomes pleasant only after the solution is highly diluted4 ,storax has the peculiar property of binding different1 very delicate odors1 to render them less fugitive1 and for this reason finds frequent application in perfumery4 ,oriental storax should not be confounded with ,american storax which occurs in commerce under the name of ,sweet ,gum1 ,gum ,wax1 or ,liquidamber1 and is derived from ,liquidambar styraciflua4 ,it is quite a thick transparent liquid1 light yellow1 gradually becoming more and more solid and darker colored1 but is often used in place of the former1 though its odor is less fine4 ,,sumbul ,,root4 ,latin--,radix ,sumbul2 ,french--,soumboul2 ,german--,moschuswurzel4 ,the ,sumbul plant 7,ferula ,sumbul71 indigenous to ,turkestan and adjoining countries1 has a light brown root covered with thin fibres1 which has a penetrating odor of musk4 ,owing to this quality it is frequently employed in perfumery1 especially for sachets4 ,in commerce a distinction is made between ,east ,indian and ,bokharian or ,russian sumbul1 due to the different routes by which the article arrives4 ,the latter1 which possesses the strongest odor1 probably because it reaches the market in a fresher state1 is the most valuable4 ,,sweet ,,almonds4 ,latin--,amygdala dulcis2 ,french--,amandes douces2 ,german--,ssse ,mandeln4 ,the almond-tree1 ,amygdalus communis1 occurs in two varieties1 undistinguishable by botanical characteristics4 ,one bears sweet1 the other bitter fruits 7comp4 ,bitter almonds1 page #bd74 ,both are odorless and contain much fixed oil4 ,the special odor of bitter almonds forms only in consequence of the decomposition of a peculiar body 7amygdalin71 present in bitter almonds1 when it comes in contact with water4 ,good almonds are full1 juicy1 light brown1 without wrinkles1 and have a sweet mild taste4 ,a rancid taste characterizes staleness4 ,the fixed or expressed oil1 both that of the sweet and that of the bitter almonds 7which are identical in taste1 odor1 and other properties71 is used in perfumery for fine hair oils1 ointments1 and some fine soft soaps4 ,,sweet-,,flag ,,root4 ,latin--,radix ,calami2 ,french--,racine de glaeule2 ,german--,calmuswurzel4 ,the calamus root met with in commerce is the creeping root-stock of a plant 7,acorus ,calamus71 occurring in all countries of the northern hemisphere1 and frequent in ,european and ,american swamps4 ,the root-stock is spongy1 about as thick as a finger1 many-jointed1 and of a yellowish color1 with many dark streaks and dots4 ,inside the color is reddish-white4 ,the odor is strong and the taste sharp and burning4 ,,sweet-,,pea4 ,latin--,lathyrus tuberosus2 ,french--,pois de senteur2 ,german--,platterbsenblthen4 ,sweet-pea flowers1 which have a very delicate odor1 yield it to the usual solvents4 ,the odor bears some resemblance to that of orange flowers1 but is rarely used alone2 it is generally combined with others to make it more lasting4 ,,syringa4 ,latin--,philadelphus coronarius2 ,french--,seringat1 ,lilac2 ,german--,pfeifenstrauchblthen4 ,the white flowers of this garden bush have a very pleasant odor which resembles that of orange flowers1 in place of which it can be used1 in the cheaper grades of perfumery4 ,this plant which flourishes freely in our climate deserves more attention by perfumers than it has hitherto received1 since it appears to furnish an excellent substitute for the expensive oil of orange flowers1 as above stated1 in cheap perfumes4 ,,thyme4 ,latin--,thymus ,serpyllum2 ,french--,thym2 ,german--,thymian4 ,this well-known aromatic plant1 which grows most luxuriantly on a calcareous soil1 has an odor which is not unpleasant but is in greater demand for liqueurs than for perfumes4 ,here and there1 however1 it is employed for scenting soap4 ,common thyme1 ,thymus vulgaris1 is used for the same purposes4 ,under the name of ,oil of ,thyme1 in the ,english and ,american market1 is generally understood the oil of ,thymus vulgaris1 which is largely distilled in the ,south of ,france4 ,this oil is commonly misnamed ,oil of ,origanum4 ,,tolu ,,balsam4 ,latin--,balsamum tolutanum2 ,french--,beaume de ,tolu2 ,german--,tolubalsam4 ,this balsam is derived from a tree indigenous to the northern portion of ,south ,america1 ,toluifera ,balsamum1 belonging to the ,order of ,leguminos4 ,the balsam1 which is obtained by incisions into the bark of these trees1 is at first fluid1 but becomes firm in the air owing to rapid resinification2 in commerce it appears in a viscid form ranging from that of ,venice turpentine to that of colophony4 ,its color varies from honey-yellow to reddish-brown2 the taste is at first sweet1 then sharp1 it softens under the heat of the hand1 and when warmed or sprinkled in powder form on glowing coals it diffuses a very pleasant odor recalling that of ,peru balsam or vanilla4 ,it shares with storax and ,peru balsam the valuable property of fixing volatile odors and is often employed for this purpose1 but is also frequently used alone in fumigating powders1 tooth powders1 etc4 ,adulteration of ,tolu balsam with ,venice turpentine or colophony is not rarely met with4 ,,tonka ,,beans4 ,latin--,fab ,tonk2 ,french--,fves de ,tonka2 ,german--,tonkabohnen1 ,tonkasamen4 ,the ,south ,american tonka tree1 ,dipteryx odorata1 bears almond-shaped drupes almost as long as the finger1 which contain seeds two to four centimetres in length1 the so-called tonka beans4 ,these occur in ,european commerce in two sorts1 the so-called ,dutch and ,english tonka beans2 the former are large1 full1 covered externally with a folded brown to black skin1 and white inside4 ,the latter are barely two-thirds the size of the former1 almost black1 and less glossy4 ,the odor of the tonka bean is due to a volatile crystalline substance1 coumarin1 which often lies on the surface and in the wrinkles of the bean in the form of delicate1 brilliant crystalline needles4 ,coumarin exists also in many other plants1 for instance1 in sweet woodruff 7,asperula odorata71 deer-tongue 7,liatris odoratissima71 etc4 ,,tuberose4 ,latin--,polianthus tuberosa2 ,french--,tubrose2 ,german--,tuberose4 ,this beautiful and very fragrant plant is frequently cultivated in ,southern ,france2 its pleasant odor1 however1 owing to its great volatility1 can never be used pure1 but must always be fixed with one of the above-mentioned balsams4 ,as has been stated in connection with several aromatic plants1 tuberose could be grown in our southern ,states with advantage for the extraction of its odor4 ,,vanilla4 ,latin--,vanilla aromatica1 ,vanilla planifolia2 ,french--,vanille2 ,german--,vanille4 ,the vanilla1 which may justly be called a king among aromatic plants1 is a climbing orchid indigenous to tropical ,america4 ,it is cultivated on a most extensive scale on the islands of ,reunion and ,mauritius2 largely also in ,mexico1 and in some other countries4 ,the agreeable odor is present in the fruit4 ,these form three-lobed capsules about the length of a lead pencil and the thickness of a quill4 ,externally they are glossy brown1 have a fatty feel1 and show in the depression a white powder which appears crystalline under a lens4 ,internally good fresh vanilla is so oily that it stains the fingers on being crushed and is filled with numerous shining seeds the size of a small pin's head4 ,these properties1 together with the plump appearance and great weight1 mark good qualities4 ,old vanilla1 whose odor is fainter and less fragrant1 may be recognized by its wrinkled surface1 the absence of the white dust1 the slight weight1 and the bent ends of the capsules4 ,fraudulent dealers endeavor to give such old goods a fresher appearance by coating them with almond oil or ,peru balsam4 8,vanilla de ,leg0 is recognized as the first quality of ,mexican vanilla4 ,like most odors1 that of vanilla does not become pleasant until it is sufficiently diluted4 ,,verbena4 ,latin--,verbena triphylla1 ,aloysia citriodora2 ,french--,verveine2 ,german--,verbenakraut4 ,the leaves of this ,peruvian plant1 especially on being rubbed between the fingers1 exhale a very pleasant odor which is due to an essential oil4 ,the odor resembles that of fine citrons1 or rather that of lemon grass2 hence these two odors are frequently mistaken for each other4 ,owing to the high price of true oil of verbena1 all the perfumes sold under this name are prepared from oil of lemon grass 7see under ,citronella7 and other essential oils4 ,,vetiver4 ,latin--,andropogon muricatus2 ,french--,vtyver2 ,german--,vetiverwurzel4 ,vetiver1 also called cuscus1 and sometimes iwarankusa 7though this is more properly the name of ,andropogon lanifer2 see above1 under ,citronella71 is the fibrous root-stock of a grass indigenous to ,india1 where fragrant mats are woven from it4 ,the odor of the root somewhat resembles that of santal wood1 and is used partly alone1 partly for fixing volatile perfumes4 ,shavings of the root are frequently employed for filling sachet bags4 ,,violet4 ,latin--,viola odorata2 ,french--,violette2 ,german--,veilchenblthen4 ,the wonderful fragrance of the ,march violet is due to an essential oil which it is1 however1 difficult to extract4 ,for this reason genuine perfume of violets1 really prepared from the flowers1 is among the most expensive odors1 and the high-priced so-called violet perfumes are generally mixtures of other fine odors1 while the cheaper grades are made from orris root4 ,,volkameria4 ,this plant1 ,volkameria inermis1 often cultivated in conservatories1 has a very agreeable odor4 ,the perfume called by this name1 however1 is not obtained from the plant1 but is produced by the mixture of several aromatic extracts from other plants4 ,,wallflower4 ,latin--,cheiranthus ,cheiri2 ,french--,girofl2 ,german--,levkojenblthen1 ,goldlack4 ,the wallflower1 a well-known biennial garden plant belonging to the ,order of ,crucifer1 according to recent experiments yields a very fine odor to certain substances and may be employed in the manufacture of quite superior perfumes4 ,the preparations usually sold as wallflower1 however1 are not made from the flowers of this plant1 but are mixtures of different odors4 ,,wintergreen4 ,latin--,gaultheria procumbens2 ,french--,gaulthrie2 ,german--,wintergrnbltter4 ,this herbaceous plant1 indigenous to ,north ,america1 especially ,canada and the ,northern and ,middle ,united ,states1 where it grows wild in large quantities1 has a very pleasant odor due to an essential oil and a compound ether which can also be produced artificially4 ,the odor of wintergreen serves chiefly for scenting fine soaps4 ,,ylang-,,ylang4 ,this plant1 ,unona odoratissima1 indigenous to the ,philippine ,islands1 contains an exceedingly fragrant oil4 ,it is brought into commerce from ,manilla4 99 99 99 99 99 ,owing to climatic relations1 it is impossible for the perfumer to procure all the above-enumerated substances in the fresh state2 many of them he is forced to purchase through the drug trade1 and he should bear in mind to give the preference always to the freshest obtainable goods4 ,at times it is not possible to utilize the materials at once for the extraction of the odors and they must be kept for some time4 ,the vegetable substances should always be stored in an airy1 not over dry room2 and the material should be often inspected4 ,if a trace of mouldiness shows itself1 the material must be worked at once1 since1 if the mould is allowed to go on1 the fragrance will suffer and may be destroyed altogether4 ,the aromatic substances here enumerated are those which have actually found general employment in perfumery2 but the list is not complete1 since every aromatic plant can be used for the extraction of its odor4 ,of course1 this is connected with some difficulties1 but even in the present state of our knowledge they can all be overcome4 ,when a new odor has been prepared1 the art of the perfumer consists in ascertaining by many experiments those substances which harmonize with it2 for with few exceptions the finest grades of perfumes are not single odors but combinations of several which are in accord4 ,even among our domestic plants there are numerous finds to be made by the perfumer1 and in this respect we refer particularly to some very fragrant kinds of orchids in our woods and to the delightful odor of the lily of the valley4 ,as to the latter1 a perfume is met with in commerce under this name1 but its odor bears no resemblance to that of the flower4 ,a few facts appear to us of especial importance4 ,in practical perfumery many of the plants which are easily obtainable in large quantities1 such as the flowers of clover and trefoil1 the primrose1 the rock-rose 7,daphne ,cneorum71 dame's-violet 7,hesperis matronalis71 and others above named1 have never been employed4 ,as an actual curiosity we may state that there is thus far no perfume containing the delightful odor present in the flowers of the linden-tree1 of the ,robinia 7erroneously called ,acacia71 of the lilac1 etc41 at least not made from the plants here named4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,the ,,animal ,,substances ,,used ,,in ,,perfumery4 ,while the vegetable kingdom offers us an abundance of aromatic odors the end of which it is impossible to foresee1 the animal kingdom contains absolutely no substance which may be called sweet-scented in the strict sense of the term4 ,if we find nevertheless a few animal substances generally used in perfumery1 they should be considered rather as excellent means for fixing subtle vegetable odors than as fragrant bodies in the true sense4 ,by themselves1 indeed1 they have an odor1 but to most persons it is not agreeable even if properly diluted4 ,thus far only five substances of animal origin are employed in perfumery1 namely3 ambergris1 castor1 hyraceum1 musk1 and civet4 ,,ambergris4 ,latin--,ambra grisea2 ,french--,ambregris2 ,german--,ambra4 ,this is a substance whose origin is still doubtful2 many facts indicate that it is a secretion--whether normal or morbid may be left undecided--of the largest living mammal1 namely1 of the pot-whale 7,physeter macrocephalus74 ,ambergris is found in the intestines of this animal or1 more frequently1 floating about in the sea2 the shores of the continents bordering the ,indian ,ocean furnish the largest amount of this peculiar substance4 ,ambergris is a grayish-white fatty substance which occurs in commerce in pieces of various sizes--those as large as a fist are rare--of a penetrating1 decidedly disagreeable odor4 ,it is soluble in alcohol1 and when properly diluted the odor becomes pleasant and it is so permanent that a piece of linen moistened with it smells of it even after being washed with soap4 ,by itself1 ambergris is not much used2 it finds its chief application in combination with other odors or as an addition to some perfumes in order to make them lasting4 ,,castor4 ,latin--,castoreum2 ,french--,castoreum2 ,german--,castoreum4 ,this is a secretion of the beaver 7,castor fiber72 it accumulates in two pear-shaped bags on the abdomen of the animal1 both male and female4 ,the hunters remove these bags from the body of the dead animal and in this form they are brought into commerce4 ,these sacs are the length of a finger1 at the thickest point the diameter of a thumb1 and contain a greasy mass of yellowish-brown1 reddish-brown1 or blackish color1 according to the nourishment of the animal4 ,this mass constitutes castor2 it has a strong1 disagreeable odor1 a bitter1 balsamic taste1 becomes soft when heated1 is combustible1 and almost entirely soluble in alcohol4 ,it is probable that this secretion in its composition has some relation to the nourishment of the beavers which feed by preference on resinous vegetable substances4 ,in commerce ,canadian and ,siberian castor are distinguished2 the latter is more valuable and has almost disappeared from the market4 ,it possesses a peculiar tarry1 ,russian-leather odor1 probably due to a substance present in birch bark1 upon which the ,siberian animals feed almost exclusively4 ,canadian castor has an odor more nearly resembling pine resin4 ,in perfumery castor is rarely used1 usually only for fixing other odors4 ,,hyraceum4 ,the substance occurring in commerce under this name1 the excrement of an animal found in ,capeland1 the rock badger or rock rabbit 7,hyrax capensis71 is very similar in its properties to castor1 and according to comparative experiments made by us can be used in place of the latter4 ,,musk4 ,latin--,moschus2 ,french--,musc2 ,german--,moschus4 ,of animal substances1 musk is most frequently used in perfumery1 and possesses the most agreeable odor of them all4 ,moreover1 the odor of musk is the most intense that we know1 actually imponderable quantities of it being sufficient to impart to a large body of air the strong odor of musk4 ,this substance is derived from a deer which attains the size of a small goat and1 like the chamois of the ,alps1 lives on the highest mountains of the ,himalayas4 ,only the male animal 7,moschus moschiferus7 produces musk1 which is secreted in a sac or rather gland near the sexual organ4 ,musk being subject to the worst adulterations owing to its high price1 we append a description of the substance as well as of the sac or bag in which it appears in commerce4 ,the musk bag cut by the hunter from the body of the animal has the size and shape of half a walnut4 ,on the side by which it was attached to the body of the animal it is membranous and nearly smooth2 on the external surface it is more or less hemispherical and covered with light brown or dark brown hair1 according to the season at which the animal was killed4 ,the hair assumes a circular arrangement around an opening situated in the centre of the bag4 ,this opening1 the efferent duct of the gland1 is formed by a ring-shaped muscle which yields to the pressure of a pointed object and permits the introduction of the point of the finger4 ,internally the musk bag consists of several layers of membrane which surround the musk itself4 ,it is probable that the musk is secreted by these membranes1 for when the animal is dissected1 no direct communication of the musk gland with the body can be detected4 ,it has been surmised that the secretion of musk bears some relation to the food2 at least it has been asserted that the animals eat1 among other things1 sumbul root with great avidity2 and this root1 it will be remembered1 has a very intense odor of musk4 ,however1 though this appears probable at first sight1 it is contradicted by the fact that the females and the young males likewise eat the root without manifesting any odor of musk nor do they secrete the substance1 while the older males produce it even when they are fed with hay only4 ,another fact is of interest1 namely1 that other ruminants1 too1 for instance1 cattle1 diffuse a marked though faint odor of musk which occurs also in their excrements1 exactly as in the case of the musk deer4 ,alligators likewise produce a musk-like substance which has actually been made use of in place of musk for coarser purposes4 ,the musk present in the glands differs in appearance with the season and the age of the animal4 ,musk deers killed in spring have in their musk bag an unctuous soft mass of a reddish-brown color with the strongest odor2 at other seasons the mass is darker in color1 almost black1 and granular2 the size of the grains ranges from that of a millet-seed to that of a large pea4 ,that the secretion of musk belongs to the sexual functions appears probable from the fact that it can be found only in the bags of males more than two years old2 that of younger animals contains only a substance of a milky consistence1 whose odor has no resemblance to that of musk4 ,the quantity of musk present in a bag varies with the season and the age of the animal2 the smallest quantity may be assumed at about six drachms1 though some bags contain as much as one and a half ounces4 ,the hunters dry the bags either on hot stones or in the air1 or they dip them into hot oil4 ,in commerce musk occurs either in bags under the name moschus in vesicis1 8musk in pods10 or free1 moschus in granis1 moschus ex vesicis1 8grain musk40 ,according to its origin four sorts are distinguished3 ,chinese or ,tonquin musk1 ,siberian or ,russian musk1 ,assam or ,bengal musk1 and finally ,bokharian musk4 ,the latter two varieties1 however1 rarely reach this market4 ,chinese musk 7,tonquin or ,thibet musk7 occurs in small boxes containing twenty to thirty bags1 each wrapped in ,chinese tissue paper2 on which ,chinese characters are printed4 ,this is considered the best quality4 ,assam musk occurs in boxes lined with tin which contain as many as two hundred or more bags2 its value is about two-thirds that of the former4 ,russian musk is packed in various ways and is worth about one-fourth that of the ,chinese2 a special variety of it1 of a weaker and rather urinous odor1 is known as ,cabardine musk2 of least value is ,bokharian musk which is of a grayish black color1 with a faint odor4 ,musk is adulterated in an almost incredible manner2 at times so-called musk bags are met with which are artificially constructed of animal membranes and filled with dried blood1 earth1 etc41 and slightly scented with genuine musk4 ,but even the genuine musk bags are often tampered with2 musk being removed from the opening and the space filled with earth1 dried blood1 animal excrement1 or perhaps pieces of copper and lead4 ,pure musk reacts quite characteristically toward caustic alkalies such as caustic potash and soda or solution of ammonia1 and these substances are used for testing the purity of musk4 ,if a dilute alkaline solution is poured over musk1 a marked increase of the odor is observed after a short time2 if the alkaline solution is concentrated or hot1 the odor of musk disappears completely and the fluid develops the caustic odor of pure ammonia4 ,hot water dissolves about eighty per cent of the total weight of musk2 strong alcohol dissolves about one-tenth of it2 when heated in an open porcelain capsule1 musk burns with a disgusting empyreumatic odor and leaves a considerable amount of ash1 about one-tenth of its weight4 ,besides the above-named substances which destroy the musk odor by the decomposition of the aromatic constituent1 there are other bodies1 whose action we do not know at present1 which have the peculiar property of completely extinguishing this most penetrating of all odors3 to deodorize a vessel completely which has contained musk1 it is sufficient to rub in it some bitter almonds moistened with water or some camphor with alcohol4 ,in an extremely dilute condition musk is used for perfuming the finest soaps and sachets1 and even in the manufacture of the most expensive and best perfumes1 owing to its property of imparting permanence to very volatile odors4 ,in the last-mentioned class1 however1 the quantity of musk must always be so small that its presence is not distinctly observed1 since many persons find the pure odor of musk very disagreeable1 while they praise the fragrance of such perfumes as contain an amount of this substance too small to be perceived by the olfactory nerves4 ,,civet4 ,latin--,civetta2 ,french--,civette2 ,german--,zibeth4 ,this substance bears some resemblance to musk with reference to its derivation and the rle it plays in the life of the animal from which it is obtained4 ,the ,viverrid1 a class of carnivora related to the cats and weasels1 found in ,asia and ,africa1 furnish this substance4 ,it is obtained chiefly from the civet cat 7,viverra ,civetta7 and the musk rat 7,viverra ,zibetha7 which are kept in captivity for the purpose of abstracting from them from time to time the civet which is always formed anew4 ,civet is the secretion of a double gland present both in the male and the female near the sexual organs4 ,fresh civet is a whitish-yellow mass of the consistence of butter or fat1 and becomes thicker and darker on exposure to the air4 ,similar to musk1 it has a strong odor which becomes pleasant on being diluted and is used both alone and for fixing other odors4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,the ,,chemical ,,products ,,used ,,in ,,perfumery4 ,in the manufacture of perfumery a considerable number of chemical products find application2 in this place1 however1 we shall describe only those which are used very frequently and generally1 and discuss the characteristics of those employed more rarely in connection with the articles of perfumery into which they enter4 ,according to their application we may divide these substances into several groups1 namely3 ,a4 ,chemicals which1 without themselves serving as perfumes1 are used exclusively for the extraction of odors4 ,b4 ,chemicals which1 while not fragrant1 are frequently employed in the preparation of perfumes4 ,under this head we have included also those substances which are not strictly chemical products1 but originally come from the animal or vegetable kingdom1 such as fats1 spermaceti1 and wax1 yet cannot be used in perfumery unless they have undergone a process of chemical purification4 ,c4 ,chemical products used for coloring perfumes1 so-called dye-stuffs4 ,the greater portion of the substances to be here described it will hardly be the province of the perfumer to prepare himself1 as they are furnished by chemical factories at low prices2 but some of them--for instance1 sublimed1 natural benzoic acid suitable for perfumery and a few other substances--the perfumer should make himself1 in order to be sure of its genuineness4 ,therefore1 while in the former class it will be sufficient to describe their properties to enable the manufacturer to distinguish good quality from bad1 the latter class must be discussed at greater length4 ,a4 ,chemicals used for the ,extraction of ,aromatic ,substances4 ,for the extraction of aromatic substances from plants a number of bodies are used which possess great solvent power for essential oils1 and are besides very volatile1 or have a low boiling-point4 ,these are particularly ether1 chloroform1 petroleum ether1 and bisulphide of carbon4 ,,ether4 ,this liquid1 in commerce also called sulphuric ether1 is made in large quantities in chemical laboratories by the distillation of alcohol with sulphuric acid1 followed by a second distillation or rectification4 ,when pure1 ether forms a mobile1 thin1 strong-smelling1 and inflammable liquid which when inhaled produces insensibility1 for which reason it is used as an ansthetic in surgery4 ,its specific gravity is about #j4gbj when anhydrous1 and its boiling-point #ce ,c4 7#ie ,f474 ,it forms an excellent solvent for essential oils1 resins1 fats1 and similar bodies4 ,owing to its great volatility1 its vapors are quickly diffused in the air1 and1 as they are very inflammable1 lights must be kept away from a bottle containing this substance4 ,the same remark applies to most of the substances to be presently described4 ,,chloroform is prepared by the distillation of chlorinated lime1 alcohol1 and water1 acetone being more recently substituted for the alcohol1 followed by rectification of the product4 ,when inhaled it produces insensibility like ether4 ,it has a pleasant odor and sweet taste4 ,its specific gravity is about #a4di and its boiling-point #fa ,c4 7#adb ,f474 ,owing to its great solvent power and low boiling-point1 chloroform is largely used for the extraction of aromatic vegetable substances2 it does not take fire directly in the air4 ,,petroleum ,,ether4 ,petroleum1 which is brought into commerce in immense quantities1 especially from ,pennsylvania1 for illuminating purposes1 cannot be used in its crude state1 but requires rectification4 ,petroleum as it issues from the earth consists of various hydrocarbons mixed together1 some of which have very low boiling-points1 so that their vapors readily take fire and would make the use of petroleum in lamps dangerous4 ,petroleum1 therefore1 is heated in large apparatuses to about #gj or #hj ,c4 7#aeh to #agf ,f471 when the more volatile products pass over1 and the petroleum for illuminating purposes remains in the stills4 ,a certain fraction of the volatile distillate1 the so-called petroleum ether1 is largely used in the manufacture of varnishes4 ,owing to its great solvent power for aromatic vegetable substances and its low price1 petroleum ether has become quite an important body for the extraction of perfumes1 which will be further discussed hereafter4 ,good petroleum ether is colorless1 has a peculiar1 not unpleasant odor and a boiling-point between #ej and #ee ,c4 7#aab and #aca ,f474 ,,benzin is a common name for another fraction of the volatile distillate from petroleum1 viz41 that which boils between #ej and #fj;,c4 7#abb to #adj ,f47 and has a spec4 grav4 of #j4fgj to #j4fge4 ,this liquid1 which is also used as a volatile solvent for the extraction of odorous substances1 must not be confounded with ,benzene or ,benzol1 a distillate from coal tar1 boiling at about #hj ,c4 7#agf ,f47 and having a spec4 grav4 of #j4hgh4 ,the latter is not used for the extraction of perfumes4 ,,bisulphide ,,of ,,carbon4 ,this is made by conducting vapors of sulphur over glowing charcoal or coke4 ,the vapors of bisulphide of carbon thus formed are led into vessels filled with ice or ice-cold water1 where they condense4 ,bisulphide of carbon is a colorless liquid1 heavier than water and very refractive4 ,it is inflammable1 and possesses a peculiar odor which is not disagreeable if the liquid has been thoroughly purified4 ,its boiling-point is about #de ,c4 7#aac ,f47 and it has great solvent power4 ,at the present time1 the market affords bisulphide of carbon of a high degree of purity4 ,some manufacturers who prepare their odors by extraction1 may find it advantageous to make also the bisulphide of carbon necessary for it1 and this is best done in ,grard's apparatus 7,fig4 #a74 ,it consists of a cast-iron cylinder a1 two metres high and one metre in diameter4 ,this cylinder is heated on the outer surface in an oven1 and two tubes1 c and d1 are attached to it4 ,tube d is connected by e with the hemispherical vessel b which is connected by the tube i with the condenser mlk4 ,the condenser is formed of three cylinders made of sheet zinc which are surrounded with cold water4 ,the condensed liquid escapes into the vessel p1 while the gaseous products pass through n into the chimney4 ,the cylinder a is filled with about #a1ejj pounds of charcoal or coke in small pieces1 after which it is closed and all tubes are carefully luted with clay2 a is then heated to a strong red heat and at intervals of three minutes #c pounds of sulphur are thrown in through c4 ,in twenty-four hours1 by the use of #dgh pounds of sulphur1 #efh pounds of crude bisulphide of carbon are obtained2 a portion of the sulphur distils over uncombined into the vessel b4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #a4 ,the crude bisulphide of carbon contains about twelve per cent of sulphur and other combinations in solution and is redistilled at exactly #dh ,c4 7#aah4d ,f47 in a steam-heated apparatus with a long exit tube cooled with ice below and water above4 ,in order to obtain the bisulphide of carbon absolutely pure1 which is essential to render it suitable for extraction1 it is again distilled at the same temperature1 with the addition of two per cent of palm oil4 ,as the vapors of bisulphide of carbon are injurious to the organism1 the vessels containing it must always be kept well closed4 ,b4 ,chemical ,products used for the ,preparation of ,perfumes4 ,among all the substances belonging under this head1 there is one which plays a prominent part in the manufacture of most perfumes4 ,in handkerchief perfumes it is one of the most important substances1 as it forms not only the greatest bulk1 but the perfection of the perfume depends upon its quality4 ,this substance is-- ,,alcohol1 also called spirit of wine2 ,french1 esprit de vin2 the well-known combustible liquid formed by the alcoholic fermentation of sugar1 which is made on a large scale in extensive distilleries4 ,alcohol is a thin1 mobile liquid with an aromatic odor4 ,the usual 8strong0 alcohol of the market contains about ninety-four per cent of absolute alcohol by volume4 ,this has a specific gravity of #jhbj4 ,its boiling-point is #ghb ,c4 7#agbdj ,f471 and it congeals at a very low temperature1 below -#ajj ,c4 ,alcohol possesses great solvent power for resins1 balsams1 and essential oils4 ,these properties1 however1 belong only to the commercial stronger or so-called 8druggists' alcohol10 and more particularly to a very pure quality of it1 as free as possible from fusel-oil compounds1 known as cologne spirit4 ,as absolute alcohol is also necessary for the purposes of perfumery1 we shall briefly describe its preparation4 ,in order to make absolute alcohol1 sulphate of copper is heated in a retort until it has changed into a white powder4 ,after the powder has cooled in the covered retort1 it is at once introduced into a large glass bottle2 over it is poured the strongest obtainable alcohol 7#if ,tralles7 which must be free from fusel oil2 then the bottle is closed air-tight and repeatedly shaken4 ,the sulphate of copper which has lost its water of crystallization by the heat reabsorbs it from the alcohol and again becomes blue and crystalline4 ,generally four pounds of sulphate of copper are used for ten quarts of alcohol2 when white burnt sulphate of copper after long contact with alcohol still remains white1 the alcohol is proved to be practically anhydrous 7it may still contain about two per cent of water74 ,larger quantities of absolute alcohol are made in a copper still containing fused anhydrous chloride of calcium in small pieces4 ,the apparatus is closed and alcohol of #id to #ie is poured in through a tubulure4 ,the mixture often grows so warm that the alcohol begins to pass over1 so that but little heat need be applied to make the absolute alcohol distil over4 ,absolute alcohol obtained in this way--for by repeated distillation we get at most an alcohol of #if--;abstracts water from the air with avidity2 hence it must be preserved in air-tight vessels which should contain a small amount of anhydrous sulphate of copper4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #b4 ,strong commercial alcohol contains varying amounts of water--from four to twenty parts by volume 7#if to #hj alcohol72 at the present time1 however1 it is always customary for dealers in this country to supply the officinal alcohol of #id1 when 8strong alcohol0 is called for4 ,its strength is measured by an areometer which sinks in proportion to the purity of the alcohol2 the alcoholometer of ,tralles or volumeter shows at once on its scale how many parts by volume of absolute alcohol 7volume per cent7 are contained in #ajj volumes of alcohol4 ,the adjoining figure 7,fig4 #b7 shows ,tralles' alcoholometer1 with the vessel in which the test is made4 ,the readings of the instrument1 however1 are correct only at a temperature of #aef ,c4 7#fj ,f471 the so-called normal temperature2 at a higher or lower point they must be corrected according to the tables appended4 ,at temperatures below the normal1 the amount of alcohol is greater than the areometer indicates1 hence a percentage must be added2 at higher temperatures a percentage must be deducted4 ,,tables ,,for ,,finding ,,the ,,true ,,percentage ,,by ,,volume1 ,,at ,,the ,,normal ,,temperature ,,of #fj ,f41 ,,of ,,alcohol ,,of ,,any ,,strength1 ,,when ,,tested ,,at ,,temperatures ,,below ,,or ,,above #fj ,f4 ,,table ,i4--,,for ,,temperatures ,,under #fj ,f4 ---------------------------------------- ,per cent ,number of of ,f4 ,degrees ,alcohol ,requiring by ,,addition of ,volume4 one to ,percentage4 ---------------------------------------- #ba #ed #bb #eage #bc #dgbe #bd #de #be #de #bf #de #bg #de #bh #dbge #bi #dbge #cj #dbge #ca #dbge #cb #dbge #cc #dbge #cd #dbge #ce #de #cf #de #cg #de #ch #de #ci #de #dj #de #da #dgbe #db #dgbe #dc #dgbe #dd #dgbe #de #die #df #die #dg #die #dh #die #di #die #ej #eage #ea #eage #eb #eage #ec #eage #ed #eage #ee #eage #ef #eage #eg #ed #eh #ed #ei #ed #fj #ed #fa #ed #fb #ed #fc #efbe #fd #efbe #fe #efbe #ff #efbe #fg #efbe #fh #ehe #fi #ehe #gj #ehe #ga #ehe #gb #ehe #gc #ehe #gd #fjge #ge #fjge #gf #fjge #gg #fjge #gh #fc #gi #fc #hj #fc #ha #febe #hb #febe #hc #fge #hd #fge #he #fge #hf #fge #hg #fige #hh #gb #hi #gdbe #ij #gfe #ia #ghge #ib #ha #ic #hcbe #id #hgge #ie #i #if #ide #ig #ajabe ---------------------------------------- ,,explanation4--,supposing an alcohol should be found to contain #dj per cent of absolute alcohol by ,tralles' alcoholometer at #de ,f4 ,the difference between #de and #fj ,f4 is #ae4 ,opposite to #dj will be found the figure #de4 ,for every #de degrees ,f4 below #fj there must be added #a to the alcoholic percentage4 ,hence for #ae degrees there must be added #c4c degrees4 ,the alcoholic percentage1 by volume1 therefore1 is #dcc per cent4 ,,table ,,ii4--,,for ,,temperatures ,,above #fj ,f4 ---------------------------------------- ,per cent ,number of of ,f4 ,degrees ,alcohol ,requiring by ,,subtraction ,volume4 of one from ,percentage4 ---------------------------------------- #ba #ehe #bb #efbe #bc #ed #bd #eage #be #die #bf #die #bg #dgbe #bh #dgbe #bi #de #cj #de #ca #de #cb #de #cc #de #cd #de #ce #de #cf #de #cg #de #ch #de #ci #de #dj #de #da #de #db #de #dc #de #dd #de #de #de #df #de #dg #dgbe #dh #dgbe #di #dgbe #ej #dgbe #ea #dgbe #eb #dgbe #ec #die #ed #die #ee #die #ef #eage #eg #eage #eh #eage #ei #eage #fj #eage #fa #eage #fb #eage #fc #eage #fd #eage #fe #eage #ff #ed #fg #ed #fh #ed #fi #efbe #gj #efbe #ga #efbe #gb #efbe #gc #efbe #gd #efbe #ge #ehe #gf #ehe #gg #ehe #gh #ehe #gi #fjge #hj #fjge #ha #fjge #hb #fjge #hc #fc #hd #fc #he #fc #hf #febe #hg #febe #hh #febe #hi #fge #ij #fige #ia #fige #ib #gdbe #ic #gdbe #id #gfe #ie #gfe #if #ha #ig #ha #ih #hcbe #ii #ide #ajj #ii -------------------------------------- ,,explanation4--,in this case1 the same calculation is performed as directed under ,table ,i41 except that the correction is to be deducted instead of added4 ,aside from the water present in it1 commercial alcohol is never pure1 but always contains small quantities1 at times mere traces1 of substances having a peculiar1 sometimes pleasant1 sometimes disagreeable1 but invariably intense odor1 which are known as fusel oils4 ,the variety of fusel oil differs with the raw material from which the alcohol was made2 there is a potato fusel oil 7chemically amyl alcohol71 a corn fusel oil1 a beet fusel oil1 wine fusel oil 7nanthic ether71 etc4 ,fusel oils1 being themselves odorous substances1 exert an influence on the fragrance of the perfume2 hence it is a general rule in perfumery to use only alcohol free from fusel oil2 that is1 such from which the fusel oil has been extracted as far as possible by means of fresh charcoal4 ,so-called 8,cologne ,spirit0 of the best quality is1 as a rule1 practically free from it4 ,strange to say1 some essential oils or aromatic substances in general1 develop their finest odors only when the perfumes are prepared with an alcohol from a certain source4 ,while the charcoal treatment removes almost all the fusel oil1 the remaining traces suffice to act as odorous substances in the true sense of the term and to produce with other aromatic bodies a harmony of the odor which can never be reached by the use of another variety of alcohol4 ,to give but a single instance we may state that all the citron odors known in perfumery develop the finest aroma only when dissolved in alcohol made from wine and the solution is then distilled4 ,the world-renowned eau de ,cologne is made in this way2 the other aromatic substances contained in it are added to the distillate from the spirit of wine and the citron oils2 any cologne made in another manner or with another alcohol has a less fine odor4 ,while the citron odors require true spirit of wine for the development of their full aroma1 other scents require beet or corn alcohol to bring out their best odor4 ,jasmine1 tuberose1 orange flowers1 violet1 etc41 and all animal odors 7ambergris1 musk1 and civet7 belong to the latter class4 ,for this remarkable and to the perfumer most important fact we know no other explanation than that traces of fusel oils present even in rectified alcohol take part in the general impression made on the olfactory nerves1 acting as true aromatic substances4 ,cologne spirit is expensive1 but this should not be a reason for accepting a cheaper grade1 with which it would be absolutely impossible to make really fine perfumes4 ,alcohol is also generally used for the direct extraction of odorous substances from plants1 as will be seen in the description of the processes employed in the preparation of the so-called essences or extracts4 ,for these purposes1 too1 the best cologne spirit only should be used1 that is1 alcohol which has been freed from fusel oil and redistilled1 for in no other way can the aromatic substances be obtained in the greatest possible purity4 ,and this is indispensable for the preparation of really fine perfumes1 for we do not hesitate to say that ,french and ,english perfumes have acquired their deserved reputation mainly through the great care exercised in the selection of their raw materials1 and especially of the alcohol used for extraction4 ,,alloxan4 ,this preparation1 which is used in making a fine skin cosmetic1 is manufactured in chemical laboratories from uric acid heated with nitric acid4 ,alloxan is a crystalline colorless body which has the property of gradually producing a red tint on the skin and finds employment for this reason4 ,,ammonia4 ,ammonia is a gas formed by the decomposition of nitrogenous substances1 but chiefly obtained1 on a large scale1 from the so-called 8gas liquor0 of gas works4 ,by itself it develops a very disagreeable odor and stimulates the lachrymal glands to secretion--a fact which can be verified in any stable4 ,a solution of the gas 7water of ammonia2 liquor ammoni7 possesses the same properties4 ,in perfumery ammonia is never used alone1 but only in combination with other odors1 namely1 in the manufacture of smelling salts 7,french3 sels volatils2 ,german3 ,riechsalze71 which are much in favor in ,england and in this country4 ,for the purposes of the perfumer1 the greater part of the commercial ammonia is unsuitable owing to its tarry odor4 ,pure ammonia is best prepared by heating equal parts of quicklime and powdered sal-ammoniac in a retort1 and conducting the generated gas into water which dissolves it with avidity1 one quart of water dissolving more than seven hundred quarts of ammonia gas4 ,,carbonate ,,of ,,ammonia1 a combination of ammonia with carbonic acid1 occurs in commerce in large transparent lumps1 often covered with a white dust of bicarbonate of ammonia1 which in the air continually develop ammonia and therefore always smell of it4 ,this commercial product is1 as a rule1 sufficiently pure to be used in perfumery2 as to its application the same remarks apply as were made under the head of ammonia4 ,,oil ,,of ,,bitter ,,almonds 7,,oleum ,,amygdal ,,amar74 ,this is made from bitter almonds1 previously deprived of fatty oil by pressure1 which are mixed with an equal weight of water and set in a warm place4 ,the amygdalin undergoes decomposition into sugar1 hydrogen cyanide1 and benzoyl hydride or oil of bitter almonds4 ,after one or two days the mass is distilled2 the distillate being a colorless liquid1 containing1 besides oil of bitter almonds1 hydrogen cyanide or prussic acid1 one of the most virulent poisons1 from which it must be freed4 ,this is done by shaking the liquid repeatedly with dilute solution of potassa1 followed by agitation with water4 ,pure oil of bitter almonds is not poisonous1 but has a very strong narcotic odor of bitter almonds1 which1 however1 becomes most marked when largely diluted with water4 ,,benzoic ,,acid 7,,acidum ,,benzoicum74 ,this acid1 contained in benzoin1 is made also synthetically from other materials1 in chemical laboratories4 ,when pure it forms needle-shaped crystals having a silky gloss2 they have a peculiar acrid taste1 but no odor4 ,synthetic benzoic acid is worthless to the perfumer2 in his art he can use only a benzoic acid made from gum benzoin by sublimation1 because it contains a very aromatic essential oil for which the acid is merely the vehicle and which can also be employed alone4 ,as this sublimed benzoic acid is often adulterated with the artificial1 we advise the manufacturer of perfumery to make his own benzoic acid according to the following directions4 ,the ,manufacture of ,sublimed ,benzoic ,acid4 ,about four pounds of benzoin ,b of best quality is broken into small pieces and placed in a small copper boiler ,k 7,fig4 #c72 over its entire surface is pasted white blotting paper ,l1 and to this is pasted a cone of strong paper which must surround the edge of the boiler4 ,the cone ends above in a paper tube ,r1 about five feet long and an inch wide4 ,the copper boiler is placed in a large clay pot ,t 7a flower pot7 and surrounded on all sides with fine sand4 ,the clay pot is heated from without by a charcoal fire4 ,after the pot has remained about half an hour on the fire1 the latter is fanned to its utmost and kept at this point for thirty minutes4 ,the heat volatilizes the benzoic acid1 the above-mentioned essential oil1 and some tarry substances of a brown color4 ,the latter are arrested by the filter paper1 while the benzoic acid is deposited on the cone and in the tube1 in the form of delicate glossy needles which are very fragrant owing to the essential oil4 ,the largest yield of benzoic acid is obtained when the temperature is raised very gradually1 until finally nothing remains in the copper boiler but a brown1 almost carbonized mass of a blistered appearance4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #c4 ,,borax 7,,sodii ,,boras7 is used in some preparations4 ,borax forms colorless crystals which slightly effloresce in dry air and hence must be preserved in tightly closed vessels4 ,reddish tinted crystals are contaminated with oxide of iron and should be rejected4 ,,permanganate ,,of ,,potassium 7,,potassi ,,permanganas7 is a salt formed by fusing a mixture of manganese dioxide1 potassa1 and potassium chlorate1 extracting the product with water1 and evaporating the solution to crystallization2 the salt is obtained in small dark violet1 almost black crystals which dissolve in sixteen parts of water to which they impart a beautiful violet color4 ,by contact with organic substances1 or others easily oxidized1 the solution changes its color into green and finally is decolorized1 precipitating a brown powder4 ,owing to this change of color the salt has been called chameleon mineral4 ,as its preparation requires considerable dexterity1 it is preferable to buy it from reputable houses1 rather than to make it4 ,it is used in the manufacture of mouth washes and hair dyes4 ,the solution of the salt causes brown stains on linen and the skin2 they can be removed only if the spots are immediately washed with hydrochloric1 oxalic1 sulphuric1 or another acid4 ,,acetic ,,acid 7,,acidum ,,aceticum74 ,much confusion exists in the literature regarding the strength of acetic acid when merely called by this name4 ,it is safe to assume that1 in each country1 the term applies to the acid officinal in its national pharmacopia as 8,acidum ,aceticum40 ,thus the ,austrian and ,german pharmacopias understand by it an acid containing #if of absolute acetic acid1 which is practically identical with what is known as glacial acetic acid4 ,the latter is1 in some pharmacopias1 distinguished by a special name3 acidum aceticum glaciale1 ,u4,s4 ,p42 acide actique crystallisable1 ,french ,pharm4--,in the present work1 the author always intended the strong acid of the ,austrian pharmacopia to be understood when no other strength was designated4 ,like alcohol1 strong acetic acid dissolves essential oils and is used in the manufacture of various toilet vinegars and washes4 ,acetic acid is made in chemical laboratories by distillation of acetate of sodium with sulphuric acid1 or more commonly from wood vinegar4 ,the buyer should always satisfy himself that the product is free from an empyreumatic odor which clings tenaciously to an insufficiently purified sample4 ,,fats4 ,fats find extensive application in perfumery1 in the preparation of the so-called huiles antiques1 pomades1 and many other cosmetics4 ,they should be enumerated among the chemical products used in perfumery because they can never be employed in their commercial form1 but must undergo some process of purification1 which is effected less by mechanical than by chemical means4 ,commercial fats usually contain remnants of the animal or vegetable body from which they are derived3 particles of blood and membranes occur frequently in animal fats2 cell bodies and vegetable albumin in vegetable fats4 ,besides these mechanical impurities1 fats1 especially if old1 sometimes contain small amounts of free fatty acids which suffice to impart to them the objectionable odor and taste peculiar to every rancid fat4 ,while some fats1 such as bear's grease1 butter of cacao1 oil of sesame1 and some others1 remain free from rancidity for a long time1 others undergo this change very rapidly2 in fact1 we may say that every fat which shows the slightest odor should be called rancid1 for pure fat is absolutely odorless4 ,we shall here briefly describe the process employed in the fat industry and by perfumers for the purification of fats4 ,animal fat1 such as lard1 suet1 bear's grease1 etc41 as well as cocoanut and palm oils1 are introduced into a large iron boiler containing dilute soda lye 7not exceeding one per cent of caustic soda71 and the lye is heated to boiling4 ,in the boiler is a small pump terminating above in a curved tube having a rose of a watering-pot at the end4 ,the pump is so arranged as to raise lye and melted fat at the same time and to return the fluid into the boiler in a fine spray4 ,after the fat is melted1 the solid matters floating on top are skimmed off with a perforated spoon1 and then the pump is operated for about fifteen minutes4 ,the contained shreds of membrane and similar substances are completely dissolved by the soda lye1 the free fatty acids are perfectly combined1 and the fat is at the same time decolorized4 ,after cooling1 it floats on the surface of the lye as a colorless and odorless fluid2 it is ladled off and poured into tall tapering vessels which are well closed and preserved in cool cellars4 ,contact with the air1 especially at higher temperatures1 causes rancidity of the fat4 ,for every twenty pounds of fat twenty quarts of lye are used4 ,according to another process the fat is purified by being heated with alum and table salt2 or every twenty-five pounds of fat1 one ounce of alum and two ounces of salt are dissolved in five gallons of water4 ,the scum is carefully skimmed from the surface of the melted fat1 and1 after it has solidified1 the fat is washed with water until the latter escapes perfectly tasteless and odorless4 ,the washing is a very complicated and tedious piece of work4 ,operating on a small scale1 a slightly inclined marble slab is taken1 upon which a thin stream of water is constantly falling from a tube arranged above it4 ,the fat is placed on the slab in small quantities 7not over two pounds7 and ground with a muller1 like oil colors1 under a constant flow of water4 ,owing to the expense of hand labor1 it is advisable to use a so-called vertical mill or chaser4 ,this consists of a level1 circular1 horizontal marble slab1 bearing a central1 easily movable axis with a crosspiece upon which two1 likewise vertical1 cylindrical marble plates turn like wheels in a circle on the horizontal marble plate4 ,the fat is placed on the latter and continually irrigated with water2 behind every chaser is applied a marble plate with a blade which nearly touches the chasers and returns the fat displaced laterally1 under the chasers4 ,the axis around which the chasers run is kept moving by any available power1 and the laborer has nothing to do but to replace the washed fat with crude4 ,liquid fats are purified as follows3 ,the oil is intimately mixed with one per cent of sulphuric acid4 ,the mixture assumes a black color1 the vegetable mucilage present in the oil becoming carbonized4 ,after several days' rest the oil becomes clear and floats on the surface of the sulphuric acid which has assumed a black color from the presence of finely divided carbon4 ,the oil is decanted and treated1 in the manner above stated for solid fats1 with caustic soda lye4 ,heating can be dispensed with if the pumping is continued for a longer time4 ,benzoin and benzoic acid have the property of counteracting the tendency of fats to become rancid2 it is advisable1 therefore1 to mix intimately with the completely washed fat a small amount of benzoic acid1 at most one-one-thousandth part by weight4 ,the best way of preserving fats is by salicylic acid4 ,this is added to solid fats while they are in a melted state2 if oils1 the acid is poured in and the bottle vigorously shaken4 ,if the oil is in casks1 a small bag filled with salicylic acid is hung into it from the bung-hole4 ,the acid dissolves in the oil and is disseminated through it and thus effects its preservation4 ,one-one-thousandth part by weight of the fat or oil is said to be more than sufficient to keep it perfectly fresh for years4 ,fats differ largely in their physical properties--for instance1 in their appearance1 melting-point1 firmness1 etc4 ,as we shall return to this subject in connection with the manufacture of some perfumes1 it is enough here to state briefly that by the addition of spermaceti1 wax1 paraffin1 etc41 fats are made more transparent and firmer--a matter of importance for some cosmetic preparations4 ,,chinese ,,gelatin4 ,this substance1 derived from several alg1 species of ,eucheuma1 indigenous to the ,chinese sea1 and identical with ,japanese agar-agar1 on being boiled with two hundred parts of water has the property of forming a colorless solution which solidifies on cooling4 ,owing to this property the addition of a small quantity of ,chinese gelatin 7#ja-jb7 is an excellent means for imparting to certain pomades and ointments great transparency and firmness4 ,,fruit ,,ethers are liquids which possess an agreeable1 refreshing odor resembling that of some fruits4 ,for this reason they are used in confectionery1 in the manufacture of liqueurs1 and also in many ways in perfumery4 ,chemically1 fruit ethers are combinations of an organic acid--acetic1 butyric1 valerianic1 etc4--with a so-called alcohol radicle such as ethyl and amyl4 ,their manufacture is connected with many difficulties and is but rarely attempted by perfumers1 especially as these products are made a specialty in some chemical laboratories and are furnished at very low prices and of excellent quality4 ,in perfumery the following fruit ethers are particularly employed4 ,,acetic ,,ether1 prepared by the distillation of acetate of sodium with alcohol and sulphuric acid1 is a colorless liquid having an odor of fermenting apple juice1 with a boiling-point at #gd ,c4 7#aee ,f474 ,,pine-,,apple ,,ether 7ether or huile d'ananas7 is made by the saponification of butter with solution of potassa1 distillation of the soap with alcohol and sulphuric acid1 and rectification of the distillate4 ,it is an inflammable liquid with an intense odor of pine-apple2 its boiling-point is #aai ,c4 7#bdf ,f474 ,it is not generally used pure1 as its odor needs some correction4 ,this is accomplished by the addition of a little valerianate of amyl1 and chloroform4 ,also in other ways4 ,,apple ,,ether1 prepared by distillation from valerianate of sodium with alcohol and sulphuric acid1 and the subsequent addition of certain correctives 7see below74 ,,pear ,,ether1 also called pear oil1 chiefly valerianate of amyl oxide1 can be obtained in large quantities from a by-product in the manufacture of potato spirit1 namely1 amyl alcohol1 which is carefully heated in a still with bichromate of potassium and sulphuric acid4 ,the product thus obtained has a very pleasant odor of fine pears and boils at #aif ,c4 7#che ,f474 ,but the commercial 8pear-essence0 is a more complex body 7see following table74 ,,nitrous ,,ether is a very volatile liquid boiling at #af ,c4 7#fa ,f471 which is obtained by distillation of strong alcohol with concentrated nitric acid and rectification of the distillate2 it is less used in perfumery than the other fruit ethers4 ,fruit ethers1 owing to their low price and great strength1 are frequently employed in the manufacture of cheap perfumery1 in place of essential oils1 but more largely for scenting soap4 ,the so-called raspberry and strawberry ethers consist of mixtures of acetic1 pine-apple1 apple1 and other ethers 7see following table71 which1 combined in certain proportions1 really manifest an odor nearly akin to those of the fruits after which they are named4 ,,fruit ,,ethers 7,,fruit ,,essences74 ,,table ,,showing ,,the ,,ingredients ,,usually ,,employed ,,for ,,preparing ,,artificial ,,fruit ,,ethers 7,,fruit ,,essences74 ,a ,peach4 ,b ,apricot4 ,c ,plum4 ,d ,cherry4 ,e ,black ,cherry4 ,f ,lemon4 ,g ,pear4 ,h ,orange4 ,i ,apple4 ,j ,grape4 ,k ,gooseberry4 ,l ,raspberry4 ,m ,strawberry4 ,n ,melon4 ,o ,pine-apple4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,a ,b ,c ,d ,e ,f ,g ,h ,i ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,glycerin #e #d #h #c 44 #e #aj #aj #d ,chloroform 44 #a 44 44 44 #a 44 #b #a ,nitrous ether 44 44 44 44 44 #a 44 44 #a ,aldehyde #b 44 #e 44 44 #b 44 #b #b ,acetate of ethyl #e 44 #e #e #aj #aj #e #e #a ,formate of ethyl #e 44 #a 44 44 44 44 #a 44 ,butyrate of ethyl #e #aj #b 44 44 44 44 #a 44 ,valerianate of ethyl #e #e 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 ,benzoate of ethyl 44 44 44 #e #e 44 44 #a 44 nanthate of ethyl #e #a #d #a #b 44 44 44 44 ,salicylate of methyl #b #b 44 44 44 44 44 #a 44 ,sebacic acid #a 44 44 44 44 44 #aj 44 44 ,acetate of amyl 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 #aj 44 ,butyrate of amyl 44 #a 44 44 44 #aj 44 44 #aj ,valerianate of amyl 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 ,essence of orange 44 44 44 44 44 #aj 44 #aj 44 ,alcohol1 ,tartaric acid44 44 44 44 #a 44 44 #a #a solutions ,oxalic acid 44 #a 44 44 44 #a 44 44 44 saturated in,succinic acid44 44 44 #a #b 44 44 44 44 the cold of ,benzoic acid 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------ ,j ,k ,l ,m ,n ,o ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------ ,glycerin #aj 44 #d #b #c #c ,chloroform #b 44 44 44 44 #a ,nitrous ether 44 44 #a #a 44 44 ,aldehyde #b #a #a 44 #b #a ,acetate of ethyl 44 #e #e #e 44 44 ,formate of ethyl #b 44 #a #a #a 44 ,butyrate of ethyl 44 44 #a #e #d #e ,valerianate of ethyl 44 44 44 44 #e 44 ,benzoate of ethyl 44 #a #a 44 44 44 nanthate of ethyl #aj #a #a 44 44 44 ,salicylate of methyl #a 44 #a #a 44 44 ,sebacic acid 44 44 #a 44 #aj 44 ,acetate of amyl 44 44 #a #c 44 #aj ,butyrate of amyl 44 44 44 #b 44 44 ,valerianate of amyl 44 44 44 44 44 44 ,essence of orange 44 #e #e 44 44 44 ,alcohol1 ,tartaric acid #e 44 44 44 44 44 solutions ,oxalic acid 44 #a #a 44 44 44 saturated in,succinic acid #c #a 44 44 44 44 the cold of ,benzoic acid 44 44 #a 44 44 44 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------ ,,glycerin4 ,this substance1 which may be called a true cosmetic in itself1 as it possesses marked solvent power for cutaneous coloring matters and at the same time imparts to the skin delicacy and flexibility1 is at present to be had commercially in great purity4 ,pure glycerin is a brilliant1 colorless1 and odorless substance of the consistence of a thick syrup1 which mixes with water and alcohol in all proportions and has a slightly warm but very sweet taste4 ,it readily absorbs aromatic substances and is used in many valued toilet articles in combination with fats and perfumes4 ,recently we have succeeded in using glycerin most successfully for the extraction of aromatic substances4 ,,oil ,,of ,,mirbane1 also called artificial oil of bitter almonds1 nitrobenzol1 and essence of mirbane4 ,this substance1 which is now largely used in perfumery and soap manufacture1 is obtained by the action of fuming nitric acid on benzol4 ,the mixture becomes hot and emits masses of brown vapors1 and there is formed a yellow oily body which is washed with water and soda solution until the washings escape colorless4 ,pure nitrobenzol is not soluble in water1 but in alcohol or ether1 boils at #bac ,c4 7#dae ,f471 and congeals at-#e to #f ,c4 7#ba-bc ,f474 ,its spec4 grav4 is #ab or a little over4 ,any oil of mirbane having a lower specific gravity than #ab at #ae ,c4 7#ei ,f47 is spurious1 most likely nitrotoluol4 ,its odor greatly resembles that of oil of bitter almonds1 but can be clearly differentiated from it on comparison4 ,care must be taken in inhaling the vapor when undiluted1 as it is poisonous4 ,by distillation nitrobenzol can be obtained quite colorless1 and in this form is often used for the adulteration of genuine oil of bitter almonds4 ,this adulteration1 however1 can be easily demonstrated by heating for a short time with an alcoholic solution of a caustic alkali which separates from nitrobenzol a brown resinous substance1 while true oil of bitter almonds loses its odor and changes into benzoic acid which unites with the alkali4 ,,paraffin4 ,this substance is one of the products of the distillation of petroleum1 coal1 peat1 and other carbonaceous sources4 ,it is a crystalline1 brittle body1 closely resembling wax in appearance and melting between #ea and #fj ,c4 7#abd and #adj ,f474 ,paraffin1 which is now made on a large scale for the manufacture of candles1 is very useful in perfumery as a partial substitute for the much more expensive wax or spermaceti1 over which it has the advantage1 besides its cheapness1 that it imparts to the articles great transparency--a quality which is valued highly in fine perfumeries4 ,the addition of some paraffin to pomades renders them more consistent and counteracts their tendency to become rancid4 ,distilled paraffin always has a crystalline form1 differing from the paraffin-like residues left after the distillation of petroleum 7so-called vaselins1 etc41 see below7 which are always amorphous4 ,,pyrogallic ,,acid appears in commerce as a white crystalline powder1 made by heating gallic acid to #bjj-baj ,c4 7#cib-daj ,f474 ,with iron salts1 pyrogallic acid forms bluish-black combinations and precipitates the metal from silver solutions as a velvety-black powder4 ,on account of these properties pyrogallic acid is used in perfumery as a constituent of some hair dyes4 ,,sulphide ,,of ,,potassium1 liver of sulphur1 hepar sulphuris1 potassii sulphuretum1 the pentasulphide of potassium1 is obtained by fusing together potash and sulphur1 in the shape of a leather-brown mass which is soluble in water and on exposure to the air is gradually decomposed with the development of the offensive sulphuretted hydrogen gas2 hence it should be preserved in well-closed vessels4 ,an aqueous solution of this substance forms with lead or silver salts a black precipitate of sulphide of lead or silver1 and is used for some hair dyes4 ,,starch ,,flour 7amylum7 is prepared from various vegetables such as potatoes1 rice1 arrowroot1 sago1 etc41 and when pure appears as an insoluble white powder which the microscope shows to be grains consisting of many superimposed layers4 ,in commerce the price of the different varieties of starch fluctuates greatly2 in perfumery well-cleansed potato starch can very well be used for dusting powders1 and the so-called poudre de riz2 in this country1 corn starch is preferable4 ,,vanillin1 that is1 the body to which vanilla owes its fragrance1 is now made artificially and can be used in place of vanilla for soaps and pomades4 ,,vaselin4 ,in the distillation of petroleum there remain in the still as a residue large quantities of a substance which when purified is colorless and1 according to the nature of the petroleum1 at ordinary temperatures has either the consistence of lard1 melting under the heat of the hand1 or forms an oily liquid4 ,in perfumery vaselin can be used like fat or oil1 over which it has the advantage in that it always remains odorless and free from acid2 hence it is very appropriate for the manufacture of pomades4 ,the market affords numerous varieties of this substance1 under different names3 vaselin 7oil and solid71 albolene 7oil and solid71 cosmolin1 etc41 etc4 ,,spermaceti is a substance found in the skull cavities of several whales and dolphins4 ,in its properties it stands midway between beeswax1 paraffin1 and firm fats4 ,in the living animal spermaceti is fluid1 but after its death it congeals to a white crystalline mass of a fatty lustre1 which melts at #dj ,c4 7#ajd ,f471 and is frequently used for fine candles as well as for other articles4 ,,wax 7,cera alba71 the well-known product of the bee2 in perfumery only bleached 7white7 wax is employed4 ,in recent years ,japanese wax has appeared in commerce2 this is of vegetable origin1 but in its properties resembles beeswax4 ,,subnitrate ,,of ,,bismuth1 bismuth white1 pearl white1 bismuthi subnitras1 blanc de bismuth1 blanc de perles1 the basic nitrate of bismuth1 the chief ingredient of many skin cosmetics1 is prepared by dissolving metallic bismuth in moderately strong nitric acid1 and pouring the solution into a large quantity of water1 whereupon the subnitrate is precipitated4 ,the precipitated powder is collected on a funnel and washed with pure water until the wash water no longer changes blue tincture of litmus to red4 ,the bismuth white is dried and preserved in well-closed vessels1 since in the air it gradually assumes a yellowish color2 for any sulphuretted hydrogen present in the air is greedily absorbed by this salt1 and the resulting combination with sulphur has a black color4 ,,oxide ,,of ,,tin is obtained by treating metallic tin with fuming nitric acid1 adding the solution to a large quantity of water1 and washing the product1 which forms a white insoluble powder used cosmetically for polishing the finger nails4 99 99 99 99 99 ,besides the chemical products here enumerated1 some others find application in perfumery2 we shall describe their properties in connection with the articles into which they enter4 ,in this connection mention may be made of the fact that more and more aromatic substances are now made artificially which were formerly obtained with difficulty from plants4 ,besides vanillin mentioned above1 cumarin1 oil of wintergreen1 and some other products are prepared artificially4 ,heliotropin and nerolin are artificially prepared substances1 possessing an odor resembling that of heliotrope and oil of neroli1 respectively1 but not identical chemically with the natural odorous substance4 ,artificial musk 7,baur's71 is playing a rle at present1 but is not identical with the natural substance4 ,c4 ,the ,colors used in ,perfumery4 ,some articles are colored intentionally2 this remark applies particularly to some soaps which not rarely are stained to correspond to the color of the flower whose odor they bear2 for instance1 violet soap4 ,some articles again are used only on account of their color2 for instance1 paints1 hair and whisker dyes4 ,as we shall discuss this subject at greater length in connection with these toilet articles1 we merely state here that nowadays every manufacturer can choose between a large number of dyes of any color1 all of which are innoxious2 hence no perfumer should under any circumstances use poisonous colors4 ,this is a matter of importance with substances intended for immediate contact with the human body such as paints1 lip salves1 soaps1 etc4 ,all of these colors will be described hereafter4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,the ,,extraction ,,of ,,odors4 ,excepting the articles made in ,turkey and ,india 7especially oil of rose71 most aromatic substances are manufactured in southern ,france and the adjoining regions of ,italy1 while a few 7oils of peppermint and lavender7 are produced in ,england2 a few also 7oils of peppermint1 spearmint1 wintergreen1 sassafras1 etc47 in the ,united ,states4 ,however1 as we have stated above1 it is possible to cultivate some plants from which odors are extracted in the warm sections of this country1 and to obtain the most expensive perfumes from them4 ,among these plants our experience leads us to suggest violets1 roses1 reseda1 lavender1 mints1 syringa1 lilac1 and several others to which the climate is adapted4 ,the methods by which the odors can be extracted from the plants differ according to the physical properties of the raw material and the chemical composition of the aromatic substance4 ,we shall here briefly describe the methods thus far known1 and at the same time add our own experience in this most important part of the art of perfumery4 ,the aromatic substances are obtained by pressure1 by distillation1 by maceration 7infusion71 by absorption 7enfleurage7 through air or through carbonic acid1 and by extraction4 ,,pressure4 ,certain aromatic substances that occur in large amounts in some parts of plants1 are best obtained by pressure4 ,the rinds of certain fruits contain an essential oil in considerable quantities inclosed in receptacles easily distinguished under the microscope4 ,when these vegetable substances are subjected to strong pressure1 the oil receptacles burst and the essential oil escapes4 ,the force is usually applied through a screw press with a stout iron spindle2 the vegetable substances being inclosed in strong linen or horse-hair cloths1 placed between iron plates1 and subjected to a gradually increasing pressure4 ,comparative experiments have shown us that even with the most powerful presses a considerable1 amount of oil is lost owing to the fact that a large number of oil receptacles remain intact4 ,for this reason1 when oil is to be extracted by pressure1 a hydraulic press is preferable1 as it develops greater power than any other press4 ,in the hydraulic presses used for this purpose the piston fits exactly into a hollow iron cylinder with sieve-like openings in its circumference4 ,the vegetable substances are filled into this cylinder2 when the pressure is applied1 the fluids escape through the perforations1 and the residue forms a compact woody cake which is then free from oil4 ,besides the essential oil1 watery fluid is expressed1 the whole appearing as a milky liquid1 owing to the admixture of vegetable fibres1 mucilage1 etc4 ,it is collected in a tall glass cylinder which is set in a place free from any vibration4 ,after remaining at rest for several hours the liquid separates into two layers1 the lower being watery and mixed with mucilage1 that floating on top being almost pure oil4 ,the latter is separated1 and finally purified by filtration through a double paper cone in a funnel covered with a glass plate4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #d4 ,it is best to separate the water and oil in a regular separatory funnel1 or in a simple apparatus illustrated in ,fig4 #d4 ,it is made by cutting the bottom from a tall flask1 and fitting into the neck by means of a cork a glass tube having a diameter of one-fourth to one-half inch4 ,a rubber tube with stop-cock is fastened to the glass tube4 ,by careful opening of the stop-cock1 the watery fluid can be drained off to the last drop4 ,to the perfumer this method is of little importance1 since it is applicable only to a few substances which1 moreover1 give cheap odors4 ,still1 the possession of a hydraulic press is advisable to every manufacturer who works on a large scale1 as it is useful also in the preparation of several fixed oils frequently employed in perfumery1 for instance1 oils of almonds1 nuts1 etc4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #e4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #f4 ,fixed oils are best extracted in so-called drop presses1 the material having first been comminuted between rollers4 ,these are arranged as shown in section in ,fig4 #e1 and in ground plan in ,fig4 #f4 ,the apparatus consists of two smooth or slightly grooved iron cylinders ,a and ,b1 respectively four feet and one foot in diameter1 which can be approximated or separated by means of set screws4 ,the material is placed into the trough ,f containing a feeding roller moved by the belt ,p4 ,the scrapers ,,ff1 pressed against the cylinders by means of weighted levers1 free the rollers from adhering pieces4 ,the drop presses ,figs4 #g and #h consist of a hydraulic press with cylinders ,a and piston ,b2 the troughs ,e are movable by means of rings between two vertical columns and every trough has a circular gutter d for the reception of the expressed oil4 ,the iron pots ,g have double walls1 the inner of which has a series of openings at its upper part2 these pots are filled with the bruised material to be pressed and after this has been covered with a plate of horse-hair tissue are set in the press4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #g4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #h4 ,as the piston rises1 the troughs ,e sink into the pots1 the escaping oil collects in the gutters d and thence passes into a receptacle4 ,after pressing1 the piston is allowed to sink back1 the pots ,g are drawn aside 7,fig4 #h7 to tabular surfaces1 and other pots are substituted for the exhausted ones4 ,these drop presses are suitable for the extraction of all fixed oils and also volatile oils present in orange and lemon peel1 etc4 ,,distillation4 ,many odors or essential oils possess the remarkable property that their vapors pass so largely with that of boiling water that they can be extracted in this way 7by 8distillation07 from vegetable substances1 though the essential oils have a boiling-point far above that of water4 ,distillation can be employed for a large number of substances2 for instance1 the essential oils present in cumin1 anise1 lavender1 fennel1 mace1 nutmeg1 etc41 are extracted exclusively in this manner4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #i4 ,for the extraction of odors in this way1 according to the quantities of material to be worked1 different apparatuses are used1 some of the most important of which will be here described4 ,for manufacturers who run without steam and are obliged to use a naked flame1 the adjoining apparatus 7,fig4 #i7 will be advantageous4 ,it consists of a copper boiler ,a1 the still1 set in a brick furnace4 ,the latter is so constructed that the incandescent gases strike not only the curved bottom of the still1 but also its sides through the flues ,z left in the brickwork4 ,the still1 whose upper part projects from the furnace1 has an opening ,o on the left side1 closed air-tight with a screw1 which serves for refilling with water during distillation when necessary4 ,to the margin of the still is fitted steam-tight the helm ,h1 made of copper or tinned iron1 having a prolongation1 the tube ,r4 ,the latter is joined to the conical projection v which terminates in the worm ,k4 ,in some apparatuses this projection is omitted and the tube immediately joins the worm4 ,the latter is made of tinned iron and1 as the cut shows1 is arranged in coils and supported by props t in the wooden or metal condenser ,f4 ,the condenser bears above a short bent tube b1 and below1 immediately over the bottom1 an elbow tube e1 long enough to reach above the edge of the condenser1 as indicated in the cut4 ,the vegetable substances to be distilled can be put immediately into the still and covered with water2 but in this case it is advisable to use a stirrer which must be kept moving until the water boils1 otherwise the material might burn at the bottom4 ,but this accident can also be prevented by applying a perforated false bottom to the still above the flues1 or by inclosing the material in a wire-sieve basket ,c4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,in place of the basket ,c the apparatus can also be provided with an additional vessel containing the material to be distilled4 ,in the still ,a 7,fig4 #aj7 the water is brought to boiling1 the steam rises through the second still ,b in which the material is spread on a perforated bottom4 ,the steam laden with the vapors of the essential oil passes through the tube ,r into the condenser4 ,it is very advantageous1 and in large establishments altogether indispensable1 to use steam in the distillation of essential oils4 ,fig4 #aa represents the arrangement of such an apparatus4 ,the still ,b 7which in this case may be made of stout tinned iron7 stands free and is provided with a wooden jacket ,m for the purpose of retaining the heat4 ,immediately above the curved bottom is a perforated plate on which the material rests4 ,the tube ,d which enters the bottom of the still is connected with the boiler which furnishes steam at moderate tension4 ,h is the faucet for the admission of steam2 ,h4 is the faucet by which the water escapes from the still at the end of the operation4 ,after the still is filled with the material1 the faucet ,h is opened gradually and a continuous stream of steam is allowed to pass through the still until the operation is finished4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,when working with an open fire1 as soon as vapors appear at the lower end of the worm 7,fig4 #i71 cold water is admitted through the tube ne2 as the cold water abstracts heat from the vapors and condenses them1 it becomes warm1 rises to the surface1 and escapes through b1 so that the worm is continually surrounded with cold water4 ,if for any reason the saving of cold water is an object1 its flow may be so regulated that the vapors are just condensed1 the warm distillate being allowed to cool in the air4 ,when working with steam1 the cold water must be admitted the moment the steam-cock is opened1 and the flow of cold water should be ample during the distillation1 which in this case is much shorter4 ,the large apparatuses here described are generally used1 especially for the extraction from vegetable substances of odors present in considerable quantity1 for instance1 mace1 nutmeg1 cloves1 cinnamon1 etc41 or from bulky material as the various flowers4 ,for very expensive odors1 smaller apparatuses are often employed1 the construction of which resembles that of the ones described4 ,for this purpose small glass apparatuses are very suitable2 they are illustrated in ,fig4 #ab4 ,the still1 a retort ,a1 consists of a spherical vessel with a bottle neck t which is either closed with a cork or carries a thermometer or glass tube1 and with a lateral tube1 the neck of the retort1 connected with the adapter r4 ,the latter passes into the condenser ,c4 ,at the lower end of ,r is the bent adapter v under which is placed the receptacle for the distillate4 ,the tube ,c is closed with corks1 at its lower end is the ascending tube h1 and at its upper end the descending tube g4 ,during the distillation cold water flows in through h which cools the tube r and escapes at g4 ,the tube ,c1 as will be readily understood1 acts like the condenser in the larger apparatuses above described4 ,in order to prevent the breaking of the retort1 it is not heated over a flame1 but is set in a tin vessel ,b filled with water4 ,the comminuted vegetable material is inserted with water through the up-turned neck of the retort into the latter2 the vessel ,b is filled with water which is raised to the boiling-point4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,during distillation we obtain at the lower end of the condenser pure water and essential oil4 ,when larger quantities are to be distilled it is advisable to use a ,florentine flask as a receptacle for the separation of the oil and water 7,fig4 #ac74 ,it consists of a glass bottle from the bottom of which ascends a tube curved above2 the latter rises high enough to bring the curvature slightly below the neck of the flask4 ,during the distillation the flask becomes filled with water ,w1 on which floats a layer of oil ,o2 the excess of water escapes through a at d until the flask finally contains more oil and very little water4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,when producing essential oils on a large scale1 instead of the frail ,florentine flasks it is advisable to use separators1 the construction of which is illustrated in ,fig4 #ad4 ,they consist of glass cylinders1 conical above and below1 supported on a suitable frame4 ,the water accumulating under the oil is allowed to escape by opening the stop-cock2 when the first separator is filled with oil1 the succeeding distillate passes through the horizontal tube into the next separator1 etc4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,when the distillation is carried on in an ordinary still1 we obtain1 besides the essential oil1 a considerable quantity of aromatic water1 that is1 a solution of the oil in water4 ,an apparatus which obviates the losses caused thereby is that of ,schimmel described below1 which is well adapted to the manufacture on a large scale4 ,the apparatus is patented4 ,the nearly spherical still ,d 7,fig4 #ae7 is surrounded by a jacket ,m2 the inlet steam tube ,r is connected with a branch r which enters the interior of the still as a spiral tube with numerous perforations1 while ,r opens into the space ,m4 ,when r is opened1 distillation takes place by direct steam2 when ,r is opened1 by indirect steam2 when both faucets are opened1 the still is heated at the same time with direct and indirect steam4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,the vapors rising from the still ,d pass through the helm ,c and the tube ,a into the worm ,k2 the fluid condensed in the latter drops into the tin ,florentine flask ,f1 the aromatic water flowing from the latter passes back into the still ,d through the ,welter funnel ,t and is distilled over again1 so that the entire distillation can be effected with very little water1 and it is continued until the water escaping from the ,florentine flask is freed from oil and odorless4 ,when working with superheated steam1 it is necessary to set under the funnel tube ,t a vessel twice the size of the ,florentine flask1 which is provided with a stop-cock above and below4 ,the lower cock is closed1 the vessel is allowed to fill with water from ,f1 then the upper cock is closed1 the contents being allowed to escape into ,d by opening1 when the cocks are again reversed4 ,the use of superheated steam is important especially with material which gives up the contained oil with difficulty1 such as woods4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #af4 ,for freeing the essential oil completely from water we use a so-called separating funnel 7,fig4 #af74 ,this consists of a glass funnel ,t resting on a suitable support ,g1 which is closed above with a glass plate ground to fit1 drawn out below into a fine point ,s1 and provided with a glass stop-cock ,h4 ,the contents of the ,florentine flask are poured into the funnel which is covered with the glass plate and allowed to stand at rest until the layer of oil ,o is clearly separated from the water ,w4 ,by careful opening of the stop-cock the water is allowed to escape and the oil is immediately filled into bottles which are closed air tight and preserved in a cool and dark place4 ,,maceration 7,,infusion74 ,some odors1 like those of cassie1 rose1 reseda1 syringa1 jasmine1 violets1 and many other fragrant blossoms1 cannot be obtained by distillation as completely or as sweet-scented as by the process of maceration which is in general use among the large perfumers in southern ,france4 ,this process is based on the property of fats to absorb odorous substances with avidity and to yield them almost entirely to strong alcohol4 ,according to the fat employed for the maceration of the flowers--a solid fat like lard or a liquid like olive oil--odorous products are obtained which are known either as pomades or as perfumed oils 7huiles antiques74 ,by repeatedly treating fresh flowers with the same fat the manufacturer is able to perfume the pomade or oil at will1 and in the factories these varying strengths are designated by numbers2 the higher numbers indicating the stronger products4 ,the process of maceration is very simple4 ,the fat is put into porcelain or enamelled iron pots which are heated1 in a shallow vessel filled with water1 to #dj or at most #ej ,c4 7#ajd-abb ,f472 the flowers are inclosed in small bags of fine linen and hung into the fat1 where they are allowed to remain for from one-half to two days4 ,at the end of that time the bags are removed1 drained1 expressed1 refilled with fresh flowers1 and replaced in the fat4 ,this procedure is repeated twelve to sixteen times or oftener1 thus producing pomades or oils of varying fragrance4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ag4 ,as the odors are much superior when the flowers are only a short time in contact with the fat1 it is better to use an apparatus for continuous operation 7,fig4 #ag74 ,it consists of a box ,k made of tin plate1 which is divided into from five to ten compartments by vertical septa and can be closed water tight by a lid to be screwed on4 ,the septa have alternate upper and lower openings4 ,the compartments contain each a basket of tinned wire filled with the flowers for maceration1 then the lid is closed and the box heated in a water bath to #dj or #ej ,c4 7#ajd-abb ,f474 ,the stop-cock ,h in tube ,r is now opened4 ,this admits melted fat or oil from a vessel above to the first compartment in which it rises through the basket filled with flowers whose odor it abstracts4 ,the additional fat coming from above drives it over through the opening ,o#b into compartment #b1 where it comes in contact with fresh flowers1 passes through ,o#c into the third compartment1 and so on through #d and #e1 until it finally escapes through ,r#a well charged with odor4 ,according to requirements a larger number of compartments may be employed4 ,when all the fat has passed through the apparatus1 it is opened1 the basket is removed from compartment #a1 the basket from ,no4 #b is placed in #a1 that from #c in #b1 etc42 basket #a is emptied1 filled with fresh flowers1 and placed in compartment #e1 so that every basket gradually passes through all compartments to ,no4 #a4 ,in this way the fat rapidly absorbs all the odor4 ,the odorous substances are abstracted from the pomades or huiles antiques by treatment with strong alcohol 7#ij-ie7 which dissolves the essential oils but not the fats4 ,the huiles antiques with the alcohol are placed in large glass bottles and frequently shaken4 ,in order to abstract the odors from pomades1 the latter are allowed to congeal and are divided into small pieces which are inserted into the bottles of alcohol4 ,a better plan is to fill the pomades into a tin cylinder with a narrow opening in front and to express the pomades1 by a well-fitting piston1 in the shape of a thin thread which thus presents a large surface to the action of the alcohol1 thus hastening the absorption of the odor4 ,the alcoholic solution obtained after some weeks is then distilled off at a low temperature4 ,we shall recur to this hereafter4 ,no matter how long the fats are left in contact with alcohol1 they do not yield up to it all the odor1 but retain a small portion of it and hence have a very fragrant smell4 ,they are1 therefore1 brought into commerce as perfumed oils or pomades bearing the name of the odorous substance they contain3 orange flower1 reseda pomade or oil1 etc42 they are highly prized and are sometimes used again for the extraction of the same odor4 ,some odors cannot bear even the slight rise of temperature necessary for their extraction by the method of maceration or infusion4 ,for these delicate odors one of the following methods may be employed4 ,,absorption ,,or ,,enfleurage4 ,in this method the absorbing power of fat is likewise used for retaining the odors1 but the flowers are treated with the fat at ordinary temperatures4 ,this procedure which is employed especially in southern ,france is carried out as follows4 ,the fat 7lard7 is spread to a thickness of about one-quarter inch on glass plates ,g one yard long and two feet wide1 which are inserted in wooden frames ,r and sprinkled with flowers ,f 7,fig4 #ah74 ,the frames are superimposed 7the cut shows two of the frames7 and left for from one to three days1 when fresh flowers are substituted for the wilted ones1 and so on until the pomade has attained the desired strength4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,this procedure is very cumbrous and tedious and therefore had better be modified thus3 ,in an air-tight box ,k 7,fig4 #ai7 we place a larger number of glass plates g covered with lard drawn into fine threads by means of a syringe4 ,this box is connected with a smaller one ,k#a which is filled with fresh flowers and provided with openings below and above1 ,o and ,o#a4 ,the latter1 ,o#a communicates by a tube with box ,k1 at whose upper end is a tube e terminating in an exhaust fan so that the air must pass through the apparatus in the direction indicated by the arrows4 ,a small fan ,v driven by clockwork will answer4 ,the air drawn from ,k#a is laden with odors and in passing over the fat as shown by the arrows gives them up completely to the fat4 ,the use of this apparatus has very important advantages3 the absorption is effected rapidly1 requires little power1 and the flowers do not come at all into contact with the fat which therefore can take up nothing but the odors present in the air4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,instead of charging the fat with odors by either one of the methods here described1 carbonic acid can also be employed with advantage1 by means of the apparatus illustrated in ,fig4 #bj4 ,the large glass vessel ,g contains pieces of white marble ,m upon which hydrochloric acid is poured at intervals through the funnel tube ,r4 ,a current of carbonic acid is thus developed1 which passes through a wash bottle ,w filled with water1 then through the tin vessel ,b containing fresh flowers1 and finally into a bottle ,a filled with strong alcohol and set in cold water1 after which it escapes through the tube e4 ,the carbonic acid absorbs the aromatic vapors from ,b and leaves them in the alcohol which absorbs them4 7,g1 ,r1 ,w are made of glass1 ,b of tin47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bj4 ,,extraction4 ,this method is based on the fact that some volatile liquids such as ether1 chloroform1 petroleum ether1 or bisulphide of carbon possess the property of rapidly extracting the aromatic substances from flowers2 when they are evaporated at a gentle heat they leave the pure odors behind4 ,in our opinion this process is the best of all for the perfumer and it is to be regretted that it is not more generally used4 ,as a rule we employ either petroleum ether or bisulphide of carbon 7see above1 pp4 #fe1 #ff7 because these products are cheaper than ether or chloroform4 ,the apparatus we use for this purpose is illustrated in ,fig4 #ba4 ,it consists of a cylinder ,c made of tinned iron1 which is provided above with a circular gutter ,r terminating in a stop-cock h and which can be closed by a lid ,d bearing a stop-cock o4 ,a tube b with a stop-cock a enters the bottom of the cylinder4 ,the latter is filled with the flowers1 the volatile liquid 7petroleum ether1 bisulphide of carbon1 etc47 is poured over them1 the lid is put on1 and the gutter ,r filled with water1 thereby sealing the contents of the vessel hermetically4 ,after the extraction1 which requires about thirty to forty minutes1 stop-cock o is opened first1 then stop-cock a1 and the liquid is allowed to escape into the retort of the still 7,fig4 #ab74 ,if the extraction is to be repeated1 the water is allowed to escape from the gutter through h1 the lid is opened1 and the solvent is again poured over the flowers4 ,for operation on a larger scale the glass retorts are too small and should be replaced by tin vessels 7,fig4 #bb7 having the form of a wide-mouthed bottle ,f2 they are closed by a lid ,d which is rendered air tight by being clamped upon the flange of the vessel 7,r7 with iron screws ,s1 a pasteboard washer being interposed2 a curved glass tube connects the apparatus with the condenser of ,fig4 #ab4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,the solutions of the aromatic substances are evaporated in these apparatuses at the lowest possible temperature1 the solvent being condensed and used over again4 ,the heat required is for ether about #cf ,c4 7#ig ,f471 for chloroform about #fe ,c4 7#adi ,f471 for petroleum ether about #ef ,c4 7#acc ,f471 and for bisulphide of carbon about #de ,c4 7#aac ,f474 ,if it is desired to obtain the aromatic substances pure from an alcoholic extract of the pomades made by one of the above-described processes--which is rarely done since these solutions are generally used as such for perfumes--a heat of #ge to #hj ,c4 7#afg to #agf ,f47 is required4 ,another extraction apparatus illustrated in ,fig4 #bc is well adapted to operations on a large scale4 ,its main parts are the extractor ,e and the still ,b4 ,the former is set in a vat ,w continually supplied with cold water4 ,the still ,b is surrounded with hot water in the boiler ,k4 ,to start the apparatus the cone ,c is removed1 the vessel ,e is filled with the material to be extracted1 and ,c is replaced4 ,the faucets ,h#b and ,h#d are opened1 the solvent is poured into the still through the latter1 when these faucets are closed and those marked ,h and ,h#a are opened4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bc4 ,the water in ,k is heated until the contents of ,b are in brisk ebullition2 the vapor rises through ,,rh1 is condensed on entering ,e and falls in small drops on the material4 ,this fine rain of the solvent dissolves the aromatic substances and flows back into ,b1 where it is again evaporated1 and so on4 ,at the end of the extraction the faucets ,h and ,h#a are closed and ,h#b1 is opened4 ,the vapors of the solvent pass through it into a worm where they are condensed2 the essential oil remaining in ,b is drained off by opening ,h#c4 ,for still larger operations more perfect apparatuses are employed1 such as those of ,seiffert and ,vohl4 ,seiffert's apparatus 7,fig4 #bd7 consists of a battery of jacketed cylinders2 steam circulates in the space between the cylinders and the jackets4 ,each cylinder contains a plate covered with a wire net on which the flowers to be extracted are placed4 ,all the cylinders having been filled and closed1 the solvent is admitted from a container above1 through ,s and a into ,c#b2 when this is filled the liquid flows through a#b;b#c;cn into ,c4 ,the solution saturated with essential oil leaves the apparatus through dn and p and enters a reservoir4 ,the course of the liquid is aided by the suction of an air-pump acting on p4 ,when the reservoir contains an amount of fluid equal to that in ,cn1 dn is closed1 an is opened1 and ,c connected with ,c#a through bn and c#a4 ,that the contents of ,c#b are completely extracted is shown by the fact that the liquid appears colorless in the glass tube inserted in b#b2 a#a and ,c#b are closed2 a#b and ,c#c are opened1 thereby excluding ,c#b from the current of bisulphide of carbon which then flows through ,c#c;,cn,c#a4 ,in order to permit the free flow of the bisulphide of carbon through ,s despite the exclusion of ,c#b1 the faucets a#a;a#b;a#c;an must be two-way cocks2 in one position they connect ,s with b2 in the other they close b and leave the passage through ,s open4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bd4 ,in order to collect the bisulphide of carbon present in the extracted residue in ,c#b1 faucet g#b is opened and the bisulphide of carbon allowed to escape through h4 ,the faucet e#b in tube ,l on being opened admits compressed air to ,c#b1 thus hastening the outflow4 ,if nothing escapes below1 faucets f#b and fx are opened1 steam enters through tube ,d between jacket and cylinder2 the bisulphide of carbon vapor passes through g#b and h into the worm4 ,after the expulsion of the bisulphide of carbon1 ,c#c is emptied1 refilled1 connected with ,c#a1 and bisulphide of carbon admitted from ,c#c in the manner above described4 ,an extraction apparatus which has been much recommended of late is the so-called 8,excelsior ,apparatus0 made by ,wegelin and ,huebner1 ,halle a4 ,s41 which can be worked with any desired solvent4 ,the construction of the apparatus 7,figs4 #be and #bf7 is as follows4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #be4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,the solvent is admitted to the reservoir ,r in the lower part of the condenser ,b through the tube indicated in the figure4 ,the material to be extracted having been filled into the cylinder ,a through the manhole1 the apparatus is closed4 ,the cold water is admitted to the condenser by opening a faucet4 ,the three-way cock shown in ,fig4 #be is so placed as to open a communication of the overflow tube with ,a4 ,the faucet at the lower end of the reservoir ,r is now opened sufficiently and the solvent passes into ,a from above1 and as it descends takes up more and more oil1 flows through the sieve-plate1 and escapes through the tube at the bottom of ,a through the three-way cock1 the overflow tube1 and the drain tube into the accumulator ,c4 ,the opening of a faucet now admits steam to the heating coil1 when the solvent evaporates1 leaving the oil or fat behind4 ,it is condensed in ,b1 again returns to ,r1 whence it passes once more through the faucet into the extractor ,a4 ,the vessel ,c and the tubes leading to ,a and ,c are surrounded with felt to prevent loss of heat4 ,a sample taken from the small cock at the foot of ,a 7it has a small plate in the interior of the tube7 will show when the extraction in ,a may be looked upon as finished4 ,the solvent is distilled off or recovered from the residue in ,a in the following manner4 ,first the faucet in ,r is closed4 ,the three-way cock ,a is set to establish direct communication between ,a and ,c1 thus cutting off the overflow tube4 ,hence all the solvent in ,a flows into ,c for distillation1 while the oil is left behind4 ,steam being admitted to the residue1 the solvent rises as vapor through the upper tube from ,a to ,b and collects in a liquid state in ,r4 ,to drive off the last traces of the solvent from the fat or oil obtained1 steam is blown into ,c by opening the valve4 ,besides the solvent1 watery vapor enters ,b and forms a layer of water in ,r under the solvent4 ,by taking a sample from the test-cock of the reservoir ,c which has an internal small plate1 the termination of the process is ascertained4 ,the gauge tube at the reservoir shows the level of the solvent and water4 ,the water is drawn off by opening the faucet at the lower end of the reservoir4 ,a is emptied through the manhole and by draining the oil from ,c through the discharge cock4 ,the tube ,r is closed by a light valve so as to prevent evaporation of the solvent4 ,all the apparatuses work without pressure so that there is no danger from overstrain4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bg4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bh4 ,the solutions of the essential oils in bisulphide of carbon are distilled off in the steam still illustrated in ,fig4 #bg2 the steam enters at h1 the water of condensation escapes at d1 the liquid to be distilled enters at e from a container at a higher level4 ,the boiling is kept uniform by the stirring arrangement hg4 ,after the bisulphide of carbon is distilled off1 air is passed through the oil by the curved tube a which has fine perforations1 so as to evaporate the last traces of the solvent4 ,in ,vohl's apparatus 7,fig4 #bh71 arranged for petroleum ether1 the extraction is effected with the boiling fluid2 hence this apparatus is better adapted for the cheaper oils than for the finest oils from flowers4 ,the apparatus consists of two extractors ,a ,a1 the accumulator ,b1 and the condenser ,c4 ,petroleum ether is allowed to flow over the substances to be extracted1 by opening the faucets mm1 vh1 closing ogw,e1 and opening o1 the course being through ux to ,b4 ,when ,b is two-thirds full1 the flow of petroleum ether is cut off1 steam is admitted through y and the contents of ,b are brought to the boiling-point4 ,the vapors pass through g and are condensed in f until the contents of ,a reach the boiling-point of the solvent1 when the vapors pass through i into ,c1 and after closing m the liquid passes through ml into the inner cylinder of the extraction apparatus and returns through uxx4 ,after the contents of ,a are extracted1 m is opened1 m closed1 and steam is admitted through d into the jacket of ,a2 the vapors of the solvent force the liquid part of the contents through ux into ,b4 ,overfilling of ,b is prevented by allowing the vapors of the solvent to escape at the proper time into the condenser through p by opening q4 ,then v is closed1 q opened1 and the steam present in ,a drawn off by an exhaust applied to p2 as soon as p begins to cool1 all the petroleum ether is distilled off1 the steam is cut off at d1 and the extract evacuated through t4 ,the contents of ,b are brought into a still through ,d and ,e4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bi4 ,by employing greater pressure the extraction can also be effected by what is called displacement2 the material to be extracted is placed in a stout-walled vessel ,s 7,fig4 #bi7 which is connected by a narrow tube at least ten yards long with the vessel ,f containing the solvent4 ,stopcock ,h is first opened1 then stop-cock ,h#a which is closed as soon as fluid begins to flow from it4 ,after the liquid has remained in contact with the material for from thirty to sixty minutes1 ,h#a is opened very slowly1 the liquid is allowed to escape and is displaced with water which is made to pass out of ,f in the same way as the solvent1 until the latter is completely displaced from ,s4 ,after the solvent has been distilled off1 the less volatile essential oil remains in the still almost pure1 containing only traces of wax1 vegetable fat or coloring matter which are of no consequence for our purposes4 ,the last remnants of the solvent cannot be expelled by distillation1 but by forcing through the essential oil a current of pure air for fifteen or twenty minutes4 ,the essential oils then are of the purest1 unexceptionable quality4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cj4 ,in the case of delicate oils it is better to use carbonic acid in place of air for expelling the last traces of the solvent1 as the oxygen may impair the delicacy of the fragrance4 ,for this purpose we use the apparatus illustrated in ,fig4 #cj4 ,in the large bottle ,a carbonic acid is generated by pouring hydrochloric acid over fragments of white marble4 ,the carbonic acid passes into the vessel ,b filled with water which frees it from any adhering drops of hydrochloric acid2 then into ,c filled with sulphuric acid to which it yields its water so that only pure carbonic acid escapes through the fine rose at the end of tube ,d which is made of pure tin1 and as it passes through the oil in ,e it carries off the last traces of the volatile solvent4 ,in its final passage through the water in ,f it leaves behind any oil that may have been carried with it4 ,as all the aromatic substances change in air by the gradual absorption of oxygen1 and lose their odor--become resinified--these costly substances must be put into small bottles which they completely fill1 and be preserved in a cool dark place1 as light and heat favor resinification4 ,the bottles must be closed with well-fitting glass stoppers4 ,aromatic waters or eaux aromatises1 such as jasmine water 7eau de jasmin71 orange-flower water 7eau de fleurs d'oranges1 eau triple de ,nroli1 aqua naph triplex71 etc41 are made by distillation of these flowers with water and show a faint but very fine odor4 ,when they contain1 besides1 dilute alcohol they are called spirituous waters or esprits4 ,those brought into commerce from southern ,france are of excellent quality4 ,,the ,,yield ,,of ,,essential ,,oils4 ,the quantities of essential oil obtainable from the vegetable substances vary with the amount present in each4 ,the following table shows the average quantities of oil to be obtained from #ajj parts of material4 ,material4 ,name of ,plant4 ,mean ,yield per #ajj ,parts4 ,ajowan seed ,ptychotis ,ajowan #cjjj ,alant root ,inula ,helenium #jfjj ,allspice ,myrtus ,pimenta #cejj ,almonds1 bitter ,amygdala amara #jdjj-jgjj ,angelica seed ,archangelica officinalis #aaej ,angelica root1 ,thuring4 #jgej ,saxon #ajjj ,anise seed1 ,russian ,pimpinella ,anisum #bhjj ,thuring4 #bdjj ,morav4 #bfjj ,anise seed1 ,chili ,pimpinella ,anisum #bdjj ,spanish #cjjj ,levant #acjj ,anise chaff #jfff ,arnica flowers ,arnica montana #jjdj ,arnica root #aajj ,asaftida ,ferula ,asaftida #cbej ,avens root ,geum urbanum #jjdj ,basilicum herb1 fresh ,ocymum basilicum #jjdj ,bay leaves ,pimenta acris #bcjj-bfjj ,bear's berry ,uva ursi #ajaj ,beech tar ,betula alba #bjjjj ,bergamots ab4 #cdjj ,betel leaves ,piper ,betle #jeej ,bitter almond meal ,amygdala amara #jiej ,buchu leaves ,barosma crenulata #bfjj ,butter-bur oil ,tussilago ,petasites #jjef ,calamus root ,acorus ,calamus #bhjj ,camomile1 ,german ,matricaria ,chamomilla #djjj-fjjj ,roman ,anthemis nobilis #cjjj ,caraway seed1 ,cult4 ,german ,carum ,carvi #djjj ,dutch #eejj ,east ,prussian #ejjj ,moravian #ejjj ,wild ,german #fjjj-gjjj ,norwegian #fjjj-fejj ,russian #cjjj ,cardamoms1 ,ceylon ,elettaria ,cardamomum #dbej ,madras #dcjj ,malabar #agej ,siam #acej ,carrot seed ,daucus ,carota #afej ,cascarilla bark ,croton ,eluteria #aejj ,cassia flowers ,cinnamomum ,cassia #cejj ,cassia wood #jbhe ,cedar wood ,juniperus virginianus #jgjj-ajjj ,celery herb ,apium graveolens #jbjj ,celery seed #jcjj ,chekan leaves ,myrtus ,chekan #ajjj ,cinnamon1 ,ceylon ,cinnamomum zeylanicum #jijj-abej white ,canella alba #ajjj ,cloves1 ,amboina ,caryophyllus aromaticus #aijjj ,bourbon #ahjjj ,zanzibar #agejj stems #fjjj ,common wormwood herb ,artemisia ,abrotanum #jjdj root #jajj ,copaiva balsam1 ,para ,copaifera officinalis #dejjj ,east ,ind4 ,dipterocarpus turbinatus #fejjj ,coriander seed1 ,thuringian ,coriandrum sativum #jhjj ,russian #jijj ,dutch #jfjj ,east ,indian #jaej ,italian #jgjj ,mogadore #jfjj ,crisp mint herb ,mentha crispa #ajjj ,cubebs ,piper ,cubeba #abjjj-afjjj ,culilaban bark ,laurus ,culilavan #cdjj ,cumin seed1 ,mogadore ,cuminum ,cyminum #cjjj ,maltese #cijj ,syrian #dbjj ,east ,indian #bbej ,curcuma root ,curcuma longa #ebjj ,dill seed1 ,german ,anethum graveolens #chjj ,russian #djjj ,east ,indian ,anethum ,sowa #bjjj ,elder flowers ,sambucus niger #jjbe ,elemi resin ,icica ,abilo #agjjj ,eucalyptus leaves1 dry ,eucalyptus globulus #cjjj ,fennel seed1 ,saxon ,foeniculum vulgare #ejjj-efjj ,galician #fjjj ,east ,indian ,foeniculum ,panmorium #bbjj ,galanga root ,alpinia ,galanga #jgej ,galbanum resin ,galbanum officinale #fejj ,geranium ,pelargonium odoratissimum #jaae ,ginger root1 ,african ,zingiber officinale #bfjj ,bengal #bjjj ,japan #ahjj ,cochin ,china #aijj ,hazel root ,asarum europum #aajj ,heracleum seed ,heracleum ,sphondylium #ajjj ,hop flowers ,humulus ,lupulus #jgjj ,hop meal1 lupulin #bbej ,hyssop herb ,hyssopa officinalis #jdjj ,iva herb ,iva moschata #jdjj ,juniper berries1 ,german ,juniperus communis #jejj-jgjj ,italian #aajj-abjj ,hungarian #ajjj-aajj ,laurel berries ,laurus nobilis #ajjj ,laurel leaves #bdjj ,laurel1 ,californian ,oreodaphne californica #gfjj ,lavender flowers1 ,german ,lavandula vera #bijj ,linaloe wood ,elaphrium graveolens #ejjj ,lovage root ,levisticum officinale #jfjj ,mace ,myristica fragrans #aajjj-afjjj ,marjoram herb1 fresh ,origanum ,majorana #jcej dry #jijj ,marsh-rosemary oil ,ledum palustre #jcej ,massoy bark ,massoia aromatica ,masterwort root ,imperatoria ,ostruthium #jhjj ,matico leaves ,piper angustifolium #bdjj ,matricaria herb ,matricaria ,parthenium #jjcj ,melissa herb ,melissa officinalis #jajj ,michelia bark ,michelia nilagirica #jcjj ,milfoil herb ,achillea ,millefolium #jjhj ,musk seed ,hibiscus ,abelmoschus #jbjj ,mustard seed1 ,dutch ,sinapis nigra #jhej ,german #jgej ,east ,indian #jeij ,pugliese #jgej ,mustard seed1 ,russian ,sinapis juncea #jejj ,myrrh ,balsamodendron ,myrrha #bejj-fejj ,myrtle ,myrtus communis #jbge ,nigella seed ,nigella sativa #jcjj ,nutmegs ,myristica fragrans #hjjj-ajjjj ,olibanum resin ,boswellia1 var4 spec #fcjj ,opoponax resin ,pastinaca ,opoponax #fejj ,orange peel1 sweet ,citrus ,aurantium #bejj ,orris root ,iris florentina #jbjj ,parsley herb ,apium ,petroselinum #jcjj ,parsley seed #cjjj ,parsnip seed ,pastinaca sativa #bdjj ,patchouly herb ,pogostemon ,patchouly #aejj-djjj ,peach kernels ,amygdalus persica #jhjj-ajjj ,pellitory root ,valeriana celtia #ajjj ,pepper1 black ,piper nigrum #bbjj ,peppermint1 fresh ,mentha piperita #jcjj ,peppermint1 dry #ajjj-abej ,peru balsam ,toluifera ,pereir #jdjj ,pimpernel root ,pimpinella saxifraga #jjbe ,poplar sprouts ,populus niger #jejj ,rhodium wood ,convolvulus ,scoparius #jjej ,rose flowers1 fresh ,rosa centifolia #jjej ,rosemary ,rosmarinus officinalis #aeej ,rue herb ,ruta graveolens #jahj ,sage herb1 ,german ,salvia officinalis #adjj ,italian #agjj ,santal wood1 ,east ,indian ,santalum album #dejj ,macassar #bejj ,west ,indian ,unknown #bgjj ,sassafras wood ,sassafras officinalis #bfjj ,savin herb ,juniperus ,sabina #cgej ,snakeroot1 ,canadian ,asarum canadense #bhjj-cbej ,virginian ,aristolochia ,serpentaria #bjjj ,star-anise1 ,chinese ,illicium anisatum #ejjj ,japanese ,illicium religiosum #ajjj ,storax ,liquidambar orientalis #ajjj ,sumbul root ,ferula ,sumbul #jcjj ,tansy herb ,tanacetum vulgare #jaej ,thyme ,thymus ,serpyllum #jbjj dry #jajj ,valerian root1 ,german ,valeriana officinalis #jiej ,dutch #ajjj ,japan ,patrinia scabiosfolia ,vetiver root ,andropogon muricatus #jbjj-jcej ,violet flowers ,viola odorata #jjcj ,water-yarrow seed ,phellandrium aquaticum #acjj ,wintersweet marjoram ,origanum creticum #cejj ,worm seed ,artemisia maritima #bjjj ,wormwood herb ,artemisia ,absinthium #jcjj-jdjj ,zedoary root ,curcuma ,zedoaria #acjj ,fresh flowers as a rule contain more aromatic material than wilted ones2 the yield of dried herbs1 leaves1 etc41 is usually greater than that of the fresh1 because the latter contain much water which is lost in drying4 ,when such vegetable materials cannot be worked fresh1 which is best1 they should be completely dried1 spread on boards1 at a moderate temperature in the shade and preserved in dry airy rooms1 special care being had to guard against mould4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,the ,,special ,,characteristics ,,of ,,aromatic ,,substances4 ,in a preceding chapter on the chemical properties of the vegetable substances many of their characteristics have been described4 ,in this place we need only describe the physical properties of the essential oils1 and with some of them to lay stress on those peculiarities by which they are specially differentiated4 ,this knowledge is of the greatest importance to the manufacturer of perfumery because no single individual is in a position to prepare all aromatic substances himself1 but must rely on commerce for some of them2 and in no group of chemicals is adulteration as frequent and as difficult of demonstration as among the aromatics4 ,these adulterations are carried so far that many essential oils occurring in commerce under certain names often have nothing in common with the substance for which they are sold but the name4 ,,oil ,,of ,,cassie4 ,the oil of ,acacia farnesiana is greenish-yellow and viscid2 the density and boiling-point1 which are of the greatest importance with reference to the genuineness of an essential oil1 are not yet accurately known4 ,moreover1 this oil never occurs in commerce as such1 but its odor is present in perfumes1 fixed oils1 and pomades4 ,,oil ,,of ,,anise should be colorless or faintly yellow2 a dark yellow color indicates old and inferior quality4 ,the characteristics of this oil are the odor1 its aromatic sweet taste1 and especially the property of solidifying at a comparatively high temperature1 #aj-ae ,c4 7#ej-ei ,f471 which is due to the separation of a stearopten1 anethol4 ,oil of anise is frequently adulterated with or replaced by oil of star-anise4 ,the easy solidification of the oil of anise is not always proof of its good quality1 for the oil from anise chaff1 which congeals at a still higher temperature1 is sometimes mixed with it1 and this has a less fine odor than that distilled from the seed4 ,one part by weight of oil of anise is soluble in an equal weight of alcohol of #id4 ,,oil ,,of ,,bergamot has a pale yellow color which becomes greenish when the oil is kept in copper vessels1 and a strong agreeable odor4 ,this oil requires the greatest care in its preservation1 as it abstracts oxygen from the air with extreme rapidity1 when it changes its superior odor so that it can hardly be distinguished from oil of turpentine4 ,,oil ,,of ,,bitter ,,almond 7,,oleum ,,amygdale ,,amar71 when pure1 is a colorless1 refractive liquid which is heavier than water4 ,the vessels in which this product is preserved must be stoppered air-tight1 for in the air the oil very quickly changes into a white1 odorless mass of crystals consisting of benzoic acid4 ,oil of bitter almond is formed by the action of the amygdalin upon the emulsin present in the fruit1 bitter-almond meal being deprived of fat and left in contact with water for some hours at from #dj-de ,c4 7#ajd-aac ,f474 ,besides oil of bitter almond1 sugar and prussic acid are likewise formed4 ,the crude oil distilled from the meal is freed from the prussic acid by agitation with ferrous chloride and lime-water1 and redistillation4 ,,oil ,,of ,,cajeput 7,,oleum ,,cajuputi7 has usually a greenish color1 and has a burning1 camphoraceous and at the same time cooling taste4 ,it has a peculiar odor resembling that of camphor and rosemary4 ,,oil ,,of ,,calamus 7,,oleum ,,calami74 ,this oil1 which is very viscid and of a yellow or reddish color1 must usually be mixed with other essential oils in order to furnish pleasant perfumes4 ,,oil ,,of ,,chamomile 7,,oleum ,,chamomill74 ,oil of chamomile1 from ,matricaria ,chamomilla 7common chamomile71 which is specially characterized by its magnificent dark-blue color1 has a marked narcotic odor and is very high-priced1 owing to the small yield of oil by the flowers4 ,the oil from ,anthemis nobilis 7,roman chamomile7 has also a blue color which gradually becomes greenish-yellow4 ,,camphor 7,,camphora74 ,this essential oil differs from the others mainly by being firm and crystalline at ordinary temperatures4 ,chinese or ,japanese camphor melts at #age ,c4 7#cdg ,f47 and boils at #bje ,c4 7#dja ,f474 ,camphor is seldom used alone1 as its odor is hardly fragrant2 but it finds frequent application in the preparation of mouth washes1 toilet vinegars1 etc4 ,in commerce so-called ,borneo camphor is also met with 7though rarely71 which closely resembles the ,chinese in appearance and other qualities1 but is more friable and melts at #ahi ,c4 7#chhd ,f474 ,,oil ,,of ,,cascarilla is not used pure in perfumery1 the bark being generally employed instead4 ,,oil ,,of ,,cassia 7,,oleum ,,cassi7 has a yellow color1 gradually becoming dark reddish-brown1 and an odor resembling that of oil of cinnamon1 but the odor is not so fine1 nor so strong1 as that of the latter4 ,the taste of the oil is of special importance3 while that of true oil of cinnamon is burning though sweet1 oil of cassia has a sharper taste1 and this taste is considered by some a good mark of recognition of the rather common adulteration of true oil of cinnamon which is much more costly4 ,,oil ,,of ,,cedar4 ,this oil1 obtained from the wood of the ,juniperus virginiana 7not from the true cedar1 ,cedrus ,libani71 is clear like water1 has a pleasant odor1 and differs from most essential oils by congealing at a very low temperature 7-#bb ,c4 or-#h ,f47 and by its uncommon resinification in contact with air4 ,,oil ,,of ,,citron4 ,oil of citron is usually merely a synonym for 8oil of lemon40 ,but in perfumery it has been customary to designate the oil of lemon which was extracted by the cuelle process1 as 8oil of citron-zeste0 or 8oil of citron10 while 8oil of lemon0 meant the distilled oil4 ,since there is no difficulty at the present time in obtaining all the hand-pressed oil that may be required1 and of the finest quality1 there is no longer any necessity for making the before-mentioned distinction4 ,,oil ,,of ,,lemon 7,,oleum ,,limonis1 ,,oleum ,,citri7 is one of the most important essential oils for the perfumer as well as the manufacturer of liqueurs1 confectioner1 etc4 ,the oil is pale yellow1 and of a very strong refreshing odor which it loses rapidly in contact with the air1 when it acquires a disagreeable odor of turpentine and gradually resinifies4 ,this change is particularly marked under the influence of light4 ,its spec4 grav4 is #jhej at #bj ,c4 7#fh ,f474 ,it is soluble in an equal volume of strong alcohol or glacial acetic acid4 ,the hand-pressed oil has a much finer aroma than that obtained by distillation4 ,,oil ,,of ,,citronella4 ,this oil is hardly ever made in ,europe1 since it is imported in excellent quality and at low prices from ,india and especially the island of ,ceylon4 7,see above1 p4 #bi47 ,,oil ,,of ,,lemon-,,grass4 ,this oil1 which is imported in considerable quantities from ,india 7chiefly ,ceylon71 is colorless and possesses a very pleasant odor of lemon which at the same time recalls that of roses and still more that of geranium1 which is not rarely adulterated with it4 7,see above1 p4 #cc47 ,,oil ,,of ,,coriander 7,,oleum ,,coriandri7 has a pale yellow color and a burning1 sharp1 aromatic taste4 ,like oil of cubebs 7oleum cubeb71 oil of dill 7oleum anethi71 and oil of fennel 7oleum fniculi7 which latter also has a rather low congealing point 7-#h ,c4 or #ag ,f471 this oil is used less in perfumery than for scenting soap and in the manufacture of liqueurs4 ,but it should be noted that these oils1 as well as those of bergamot1 caraway1 star-anise1 and some others1 could well be employed for cheap perfumes and for scenting soap4 ,oil of dill also finds application alone in the preparation of some face washes1 and the dried fennel herb in cheap sachets4 ,,oil ,,of ,,lilac can be made at slight cost from the flowers1 as the raw material is obtainable without much trouble2 it forms a yellow1 strong-scented oil4 ,in perfumery1 however1 use is generally made only of the pomade made from the fresh flowers or the alcoholic extract prepared from it4 ,or else the odor is imitated by means of terpineol1 which is now on the market under the name of lilacin4 ,,oil ,,of ,,geranium4 ,it is necessary to distinguish clearly between oil of true geranium distilled in ,southern ,france and ,algiers from species of ,pelargonium2 and ,turkish oil of geranium1 also known as ,palmarosa oil1 oil of geranium grass1 oil of ,rusa grass1 etc41 which is distilled in ,india from ginger grass4 7,see above1 p4 #cc47 ,the first-mentioned oil has a much finer aroma than the second4 ,the two oils are frequently confounded1 even in prominent works of reference4 ,when oil of geranium or of rose geranium is directed to be used1 the ,french 7or ,algerian1 or ,spanish7 oil should be employed4 ,these cost more than twice as much as the so-called ,turkish or palmarosa oil4 ,,oil ,,of ,,heliotrope4 ,this oil which does not yet occur in commerce 7we find merely the pomade and the alcoholic extract of the latter7 has been made by the author experimentally2 the most suitable method was found to be extraction with petroleum ether4 ,as the plant1 ,heliotropium peruvianum1 the source of this delightful odor1 is frequently cultivated in our gardens1 the preparation of the oil by this method is to be recommended1 being less expensive and more rapid than by the use of fat1 while the product obtained with petroleum ether is as fine as that extracted by alcohol from the pomade4 ,,oil ,,of ,,elder 7,,oleum ,,sambuci74 ,the remark made under the head of oil of lilac applies equally to this oil4 ,for the benefit of those who wish to make this oil in its pure form we may add that it is absolutely necessary to select only the freshest flowers1 otherwise the odor will be very much impaired4 ,,oil ,,of ,,jasmine1 not to be confounded with the oil of ,syringa or ,german jasmine 7,philadelphus coronarius71 is colorless or yellowish and has a very strong1 almost narcotic odor4 ,it is one of the most valuable and at the same time most expensive aromatic substances employed in perfumery4 ,genuine oil of jasmine can be obtained only from ,southern ,france at very high prices4 ,what is usually sold as 8oil of jasmine0 is a fixed oil impregnated with the aroma of jasmine4 ,,oil ,,of ,,cherry-,,laurel is not used as such in perfumery2 at most cherry-laurel water may be employed4 ,but as this has the odor of oil of bitter almond and as the presence of some prussic acid1 on account of which the officinal cherry-laurel water is used1 is of no value to the perfumer and is1 in fact1 undesirable1 owing to its poisonous quality1 we substitute in all cases a corresponding quantity of oil of bitter almond for cherry-laurel water4 ,,oil ,,of ,,culilaban 7,,oleum ,,culilavani7 is light brown1 somewhat viscid2 the odor recalls that of the oils of cinnamon1 sassafras1 and clove4 ,it has been used for scenting soap4 ,,oil ,,of ,,caraway 7,,oleum ,,cari7 is light yellow and has an aromatic odor and burning taste4 ,in perfumery it is used only for very cheap odors and for scenting soap2 it finds its chief application in the manufacture of liqueurs4 ,,oil ,,of ,,lavender 7,,oleum ,,lavandul74 ,this oil is of great importance to the perfumer and is imported in unsurpassed quality from ,england 7,mitcham72 it is light yellow1 has a burning sharp taste1 and is exceedingly sensitive to light and air1 under the action of which it loses its refreshing odor in a very brief time and acquires a common smell recalling that of turpentine4 ,the buyer of this oil should take care to secure the true oil of lavender 7from ,lavandula vera72 for the oil of spike-lavender is sold under the same name4 ,this1 prepared from ,lavandula ,spica1 has a similar odor to the genuine1 but cannot be compared with it in delicacy4 ,for this reason1 too1 the difference in the price between the two is considerable4 ,true ,english oil of lavender costs ten times as much as oil of spike-lavender4 ,the ,english brand of the true oil is of so excellent a quality that it brings four or five times as much as the best ,french oil1 which is sold under the name of huile de lavande des ,alpes4 ,yet during the last decade or so the ,french oil of lavender flowers has become so much improved in quality that it has become a serious rival to the ,mitcham oil4 ,,oil ,,of ,,wallflower made from the flowers of the well-known garden plant1 and ,,oil ,,of ,,lily likewise from the ornamental plant1 are1 strange to say1 not manufactured in any place1 to our knowledge4 ,experiments made by us in this direction prove that the odors of these plants can be obtained either by absorption or1 more readily1 by extraction4 ,the perfumes thus far occurring under these names are always combinations of different scents which1 though pleasant1 have but little in common with the plants whose names they bear4 ,in this connection we may say that the perfumes sold under the names of various flowers often have no relation to them1 but are mixtures of various odors4 ,while it cannot be denied that perfumes may be made in this manner which resemble those of the respective plants1 it is unquestionably an imperfection in the art of perfumery that these odors are not really made from the flowers mentioned4 ,to give another characteristic instance1 we may add that the delightful odor of the well-known lily of the valley 7,convallaria majalis7--a plant which grows wild abundantly in many of our forests--has not yet been produced1 and that even imitations of this odor1 which in delicacy and fragrance stands next to those of the rose and violet1 are seldom met with in commerce4 ,,oil ,,of ,,lemon 7,,oleum ,,limonis71 obtained from the fruits of the lemon-tree1 is one of the most important products1 both statistically and economically1 of the ,citrus family4 ,in ,german works there is often a confusion between 8oil of citron0 and 8oil of lemon10 it being supposed by the authors that the 8,citronen-l0 is derived from the citron 7,citrus medica71 and the 8,limonen-l0 from the lemon 7,citrus ,limonum74 ,there is1 indeed1 some oil made1 occasionally1 from the citron1 but it does not figure in price-lists4 ,the oil of the lemon1 on the other hand1 is very commonly called 8,citronen-l10 and the fruit itself 8,citrone40 ,hence1 when 8,citronen-l0 is quoted in a formula1 it may be assumed at once that oil of lemon is intended4 ,it is very liable to resinify1 when it loses its fragrance4 ,,oil ,,of ,,sweet ,,bay 7,,laurel7 7,,oleum ,,lauri7 is green1 and usually mixed with the fixed oil of the same plant4 ,it finds more frequent application in the manufacture of liqueurs than in perfumery2 but as it has a pleasant odor it might well be used for cheap perfumes4 ,but in that event it must be freed from the fixed oil by distillation4 ,,oil ,,of ,,magnolia1 likewise1 has not yet been prepared as such4 ,the remarks made above under the head of oils of lily and wallflower apply also to this odor4 ,the so-called magnolia perfumes are mixtures of different odors4 ,,oil ,,of ,,marjoram 7,,oleum ,,majoran74 ,oil of marjoram1 which is obtained by distillation from the dried herb1 has a strong aromatic odor4 ,it is mentioned as having often been used in perfumery for scenting soap instead of oil of thyme1 whose odor1 moreover1 is very similar to that of marjoram1 but this is a mistake1 due to the fact that ordinary oil of thyme has long been sold under the name of oil of origanum4 ,true oil of marjoram costs about twelve dollars a pound1 while oil of thyme 7so-called oil of origanum7 is worth only about eighty cents4 ,it is rarely employed for volatile perfumes4 ,,oil ,,of ,,melissa4 ,the oil of ,melissa officinalis1 owing to the very small yield1 is quite expensive4 ,it is used only for the preparation of some perfumes which owe their peculiar qualities to this strong odor4 ,this oil must not be confounded with the spurious oil of melissa1 also called oil of citron-melissa1 which is identical with oil of lemon grass 7see page #cj74 ,,oils ,,of ,,mint4 ,although all the mints possess an agreeable odor1 only three varieties find extensive application4 ,there are the oils from ,mentha piperita1 peppermint2 ,mentha viridis1 spearmint2 and ,mentha crispa1 crispmint4 ,the oils of ,english manufacture are highly esteemed1 but the ,united ,states also produces them of excellent quality4 ,at one time the cultivation of mints1 particularly peppermint1 was greatly extended1 with the expectation of deriving satisfactory profit from the enterprise4 ,it has1 however1 been conclusively shown that the market cannot absorb more than a certain quantity of these products2 and that any over-production brings loss and disappointment to the investor4 ,beside the three kinds of mint above mentioned1 there is another species1 ,mentha arvensis1 a native of ,japan1 which is extensively cultivated there1 and is the chief source of the menthol of commerce1 so well known as an efficient remedy for neuralgia1 migraine1 etc41 in form of menthol cones4 ,the three varieties of the mint oils previously mentioned are distinguished1 aside from their pleasant odor1 by the property of leaving a very refreshing and cooling taste in the mouth1 and for this reason they form the most important constituent of all fine mouth washes4 ,true oil of peppermint1 ,oleum ,menth piperit1 when pure is colorless1 very mobile1 of a burning sharp taste which is followed by a peculiar coolness4 ,the commercial product is usually pale green4 ,oil of crispmint1 ,oleum ,menth crisp1 which in ,europe is often sold to novices as oil of peppermint1 has always a more or less yellow color and resembles the oil of peppermint in its properties1 but it is less fine and cheaper4 ,the same is true of the oil of spearmint1 but this has a very characteristic odor and taste1 distinctly different from peppermint4 ,as above stated1 the oils of mint are extensively used for mouth washes1 also for scenting soap1 in liqueurs and pastils1 but rarely in handkerchief perfumes4 ,,oils ,,of ,,mace ,,and ,,nutmeg 7,,oleum ,,macidis ,,and ,,oleum ,,myristic74 ,these oils are prepared either from the seed coat 7,oleum ,macidis7 or the nutmeg itself 7,oleum ,myristic74 ,oil of mace generally has a yellowish-red color in tint varying from dark to light and even colorless4 ,its taste is agreeable and mild and the odor exceedingly strong4 ,like oil of nutmeg1 it is extensively used in the manufacture of liqueurs and for scenting soap4 ,the oil prepared by distillation from the nutmeg is1 when fresh1 almost colorless or at most faintly yellow1 of a burning sharp taste1 and an aromatic odor4 ,like oil of mace1 it is used in the manufacture of liqueurs and soaps and also in many perfumes4 ,in ,india a third valuable product is obtained from the nutmeg by expression of the ripe fruits and is called nutmeg butter4 ,this is bright yellow and consists of a true fat and an essential oil4 ,its odor is very pleasant and a very superior soap can be made by saponification of this valuable product with soda lye4 ,,oil ,,of ,,myrtle4 ,this oil is of a greenish color and very mobile1 but it is not a commercial product2 the manufacturer must prepare the oil himself from the leaves1 though the yield is small4 ,the articles sold as so-called essence of myrtle are always mixtures of different odors4 ,southern ,france1 however1 exports at high prices a myrtle water 7eau des anges7 which is really made by distillation of the leaves with water4 ,,oil ,,of ,,narcissus4 ,as to the odor to which this flower owes its fragrance we may repeat what we have said just now with reference to the oil of myrtle3 we have never succeeded in obtaining this oil in commerce4 ,the so-called essence of narcissus1 though a very pleasant mixture1 contains no trace of the true oil4 ,as to ,,oil ,,of ,,pink1 the same remark applies3 the compositions sold under the name of essence d'illet1 however1 have a very striking odor of pink4 ,,oil ,,of ,,clove 7,,oleum ,,caryophylli74 ,this oil when fresh is colorless1 but soon becomes yellowish or brown4 ,it is heavier than water in which it sinks and is characterized by an exceedingly strong burning taste and a spicy odor4 ,it remains at least partly fluid at a very low temperature1 namely1-#bj ,c4 7-#d ,f474 ,,oil ,,of ,,orange ,,flowers 7,,oleum ,,naph1 ,,oleum ,,neroli71 commercially known also under the ,french names huile de fleurs d'oranges1 huile nroli1 huile nroli ptale1 is obtained from the flowers of the orange-tree in ,southern ,france1 where the orange is specially planted for this purpose4 ,the odor of the oil varies with the mode of its preparation2 that obtained by distillation with water has a different odor from that made by maceration with fat and extraction with alcohol4 ,the latter variety of oil as such1 however1 is not found in commerce1 the alcoholic extract entering at once into the composition of the perfumes4 ,the ,french manufacturers of this oil1 which is of great importance in perfumery1 distinguish several varieties4 ,the most valuable is the oil from the flowers of ,citrus vulgaris 7or ,citrus ,bigaradia71 the true bitter orange 7or ,seville orange7 tree4 ,this is the so-called nroli bigarade4 ,that called nroli ptale is obtained from the same flowers carefully deprived of their floral envelopes1 so that only the petals are subjected to distillation4 ,much cheaper than these two is the oil of petit grain which is distilled from the leaves and sometimes also unripe fruits of various trees of the ,citrus order4 ,all these oils are among the most delicate2 when fresh they are colorless and have a peculiar bitter taste2 exposed to light and air they assume a reddish tint and undergo rapid resinification4 ,they should1 therefore1 be preserved in particularly well-closed vessels in a dark1 cool place4 ,not to be confounded with these oils is the ,,oil ,,of ,,orange1 of which there are two kinds1 one from the bitter orange1 known also as ,oil of ,orange1 ,bigarade1 and the other from the sweet orange1 also known as ,oil of ,portugal4 ,both are extracted from the peel of the fruit by mechanical means4 ,both oils of orange peel are golden yellow1 and have a pleasant1 refreshing odor recalling that of the fruit4 ,they find application for scenting soap1 in toilet waters1 and in some true perfumes4 ,when oil of orange or oil of orange peel is mentioned in any formula1 without further specification1 the oil of bitter orange peel should be used4 ,,oil ,,of ,,patchouly4 ,this oil1 which might be manufactured with advantage in ,india1 the home of the plant1 is1 strange to say1 not imported from that country1 but is distilled in ,europe from the dried herb4 ,fresh oil of patchouly is brown in color1 very viscid1 almost like balsam1 and surpasses all other essential oils in the intensity of its odor4 ,owing to the strong odor1 pure oil of patchouly must really be called ill-smelling2 only when highly diluted does the odor become pleasant1 and then forms a useful ingredient of many perfumes as the fundamental odor in the harmony4 ,,oil ,,of ,,syringa4 ,oil of false jasmine1 from the flowers of ,philadelphus coronarius1 is not made as such2 in ,southern ,france1 however1 the flowers are frequently used for the preparation of a cheap pomade known commercially as orange-flower pomade4 ,a personal experiment made with the view to obtain the pure odor by extraction of the flowers with petroleum ether has shown that this plant is suitable for making very fine preparations1 both handkerchief perfumes and pomades4 ,,oil ,,of ,,allspice1 of a burning sharp taste and odor1 is colorless1 but is hardly ever used for the purposes of the perfumer--at most for soaps--but all the more frequently in the manufacture of liqueurs1 and particularly also in that of artificial bay-rum4 ,,oil ,,of ,,sweet ,,pea has not been made thus far1 though there is no doubt that this perfume1 too1 can be prepared pure from the alcoholic extract of the pomade4 ,the properties of the oil should resemble those of the finest nroli ptale4 ,,oil ,,of ,,rue 7,,oleum ,,rut74 ,this oil1 obtained by distillation of the herb1 is colorless or pale yellow1 of a very strong1 penetrating odor2 it is used in some washes1 but more particularly as an ingredient in the manufacture of artificial cognac1 for which purpose the plant is specially cultivated in ,france4 ,,oil ,,of ,,reseda 7,,mignonette74 ,the delightful odor of this plant which formerly could only be fixed by maceration in fat may be readily prepared by extraction with petroleum ether4 ,yet special precautions should be taken that nothing but portions of the flowers1 carefully picked off1 and no green leaves are extracted4 ,the oil thus obtained has a yellow color and a disagreeable odor which changes into the well-known pleasant smell of the flower when highly diluted with alcohol4 ,,oil ,,of ,,rose 7,,oleum ,,ros71 also known as attar or otto of rose4 ,the various species of roses give different odors4 ,the commercial ,turkish1 ,persian1 and ,indian oils of rose 7which latter is never exported7--which1 by the way1 are very generally adulterated even at their point of production--are derived mainly from ,rosa damascena1 and when highly diluted yield the pleasant odor of our ordinary garden roses4 ,the rose oils having the odor of the moss rose1 tea rose1 or dog rose are made almost exclusively in ,france and in commerce do not appear pure but generally in the form of pomades or alcoholic solutions known as essences de roses4 ,true rose oil is yellowish or yellow1 or else greenish1 and varying from liquid almost to the consistence of butter4 ,between these extremes there are all possible gradations4 ,a comparatively very high congealing-point is a characteristic of oil of rose4 ,it becomes almost solid at #ad to #bj ,c4 7#eg to #fh ,f474 ,the portion separated during solidification is colorless1 markedly crystalline1 and1 strange to say1 almost odorless4 ,pure oil of rose smells disagreeably narcotic1 only the very dilute solution shows the incomparable fragrance4 ,much superior to the oils of rose which are prepared from rose leaves 7either fresh or salted7 are those obtained by maceration or extraction with petroleum ether4 ,those perfumes sold under the name of various species of rose1 such as moss rose1 etc41 are combinations of rose oil with other aromatics4 ,,oil ,,of ,,rhodium4 ,this bright yellow light oil is obtained by distillation of the wood of ,convolvulus ,scoparius4 ,at times this oil is scarce in commerce4 ,it has a faint but decided odor of rose4 ,,oil ,,of ,,rosemary 7,,oleum ,,rosmarini74 ,this oil is obtained by distillation from the herb of the rosemary plant as a thin1 pale green fluid with an aromatic odor and spicy taste4 ,it is used as an ingredient in some old renowned handkerchief perfumes--for instance1 ,cologne water--also for flavoring soaps and liqueurs4 ,,oil ,,of ,,sage 7,,oleum ,,salvi71 from the flowers of ,salvia officinalis1 is yellowish1 with an odor somewhat similar to that of oil of peppermint1 but far less intense4 ,like the latter it imparts a pleasant coolness to the mouth and hence is used in some mouth washes4 ,,oil ,,of ,,santal 7,,oleum ,,santali74 ,the oil of santal wood 7also called sandal-wood oil7 has a thick1 honey-like consistence and an agreeable1 rose-like odor4 ,formerly it was sometimes used for the adulteration of oil of rose1 but can also very well be used alone for several perfumes and fumigating preparations4 ,,oil ,,of ,,sassafras 7,,oleum ,,sassafras7 is yellow1 spicy1 with a burning odor and taste2 in the cold it crystallizes only in part4 ,the odor of this oil recalls that of fennel4 ,the purest form of it1 or rather substitute for it1 is safrol1 its main constituent1 which is1 however1 now extracted more economically from crude oil of camphor1 in which it likewise forms an ingredient4 ,,oil ,,of ,,meadow-,,sweet 7,,oleum ,,spir74 ,several species of ,spira1 and especially ,spira ulmaria1 furnish very pleasant odors4 ,this oil consists mainly of salicylic aldehyde4 ,despite its pleasant odor and the facility of its production1 this substance has thus far found little application in perfumery4 ,the natural oil of meadowsweet1 owing to its extremely high price1 can hardly ever be used4 ,,oil ,,of ,,star-,,anise 7,,oleum ,,anisi ,,stellati2 ,,oleum ,,illicii7 resembles in its properties the oil of anise1 even in its odor2 but all connoisseurs agree that the odor of the oil of star-anise far surpasses that of the oil of anise1 hence the former is used especially for fine perfumes4 ,this preference1 however1 does not extend to all preparations4 ,for certain liqueurs1 such as anisette1 the oil obtained from common anise 7,saxon anise7 is usually preferred4 ,many also regard the odor of star-anise as inferior to that of fine ,european anise4 ,,oils ,,of ,,thyme 7,,oleum ,,thymi74 ,the essential oils of thyme 7chiefly ,thymus vulgaris7 and some related plants are very frequently used for scenting cheap soaps4 ,the oils of these plants are light yellow1 and so similar in odor that it is not possible to distinguish them except by direct comparison4 ,,oil ,,of ,,vanilla1 or1 more correctly1 vanilla camphor1 the true odorous constituent of vanilla1 also called vanillin1 is a crystalline substance with a delightful odor1 melting at #gf ,c4 7#afi ,f474 ,this is now extensively made artificially from the cambium sap of pines1 the coniferin being converted by chemical processes into vanillin4 ,one ounce of good vanillin is equivalent to about forty ounces of best ,mexican vanilla beans4 ,,oil ,,of ,,violet has thus far been produced in but very small quantities from the alcoholic extract of the true violet pomade2 it has a greenish color and when pure a narcotic odor not to be recognized as that of the flower4 ,the pleasant odor of violets manifests itself only in extreme dilution4 ,,oil ,,of ,,verbena is yellow1 with a very pleasant odor of lemons4 ,its price being quite high1 it is usually adulterated with oil of lemon-grass1 or else the latter is sold under the name of oil of verbena 7see p4 #cj74 ,in fact the odors of the two oils are so similar that they are easily confounded4 ,,oil ,,of ,,vetiver 7,,oleum ,,ivaranchus71 from ,andropogon muricatus 7see p4 #cj71 is viscid1 reddish-brown1 with a very strong and lasting odor4 ,,oil ,,of ,,wintergreen 7,,oleum ,,gaultheri74 ,this product is obtained by distillation from the leaves and twigs of ,gaultheria procumbens or else by distilling the bark or leaves of ,betula lenta with water1 in which case the oil is generated by the action of the water1 as it does not pre-exist in the birch1 and1 moreover1 in this case the oil consists of nothing but methyl salicylate4 ,it differs1 like oil of meadowsweet1 very markedly from the other aromatic substances and mainly consists of a so-called compound ether4 ,it is a salicylate of methyl1 boils at #bbj ,c4 7#dbh ,f471 is much heavier than water 7specific gravity #aagc to #aahd71 and dissolves readily in alcohol and other solvents4 ,it is used chiefly for scenting soap2 the perfumes sold as wintergreen are usually mixtures of different substances which contain no oil of wintergreen4 ,,oil ,,of ,,ylang-,,ylang 7,,oleum ,,unon ,,odoratissim7 is imported from ,manilla4 ,it is colorless or yellowish1 and has a most delightful characteristic odor1 which is rather fugitive if not made resistant by other substances4 ,it forms an important constituent of several of the most favorite and expensive essences4 ,,oil ,,of ,,hyssop 7,,oleum ,,hyssopi7 is colorless1 but rapidly becomes yellow in the air4 ,it is used in some very cheap perfumes and in the manufacture of liqueurs4 ,,oils ,,of ,,cinnamon 7,,oleum ,,cinnamomi74 ,commercially we find chiefly three varieties of essential oils which are designated as3 oil of ,ceylon cinnamon1 oil of ,chinese cinnamon or oil of cassia1 and oil of cinnamon leaves4 ,oil of ,ceylon cinnamon1 sometimes called 8true oil of cinnamon10 made from the bark of the twigs of the cinnamon laurel and formerly imported mainly from ,ceylon but now distilled in large amounts in ,germany from imported cinnamon 8chips10 is rather viscid1 golden yellow to reddish-brown in color1 of a burning though sweet taste4 ,in the air it gradually absorbs oxygen1 when it becomes dark red1 thicker1 and of weaker flavor4 ,oil of ,ceylon cinnamon1 which should always be used in perfumes or liqueurs when simply 8oil of cinnamon0 is directed1 has a specific gravity of #ajcj to #ajce at #ae ,c4 7#ei ,f47 and boils at about #bdj ,c4 7#dfd ,f474 ,its chief constituent upon which its aroma depends is cinnamyl aldehyde4 ,oil of ,chinese cinnamon1 or oil of cassia1 has for a very long time1 up to within a few years1 always reached the market in a more or less adulterated state1 a regular practice of the ,chinese exporters being to dissolve ordinary resin in it 7claiming afterward that the 8resin0 was caused by the oxidation of the oil through age7 and often also to add petroleum to it4 ,these frauds have been well shown up by ,schimmel ,co41 of ,leipsic2 and in consequence thereof1 the quality of oil of cassia exported from ,china has been greatly improved4 ,oil of cassia when pure has a specific gravity of #ajfj to #ajfe1 and should contain not less than seventy-five per cent of cinnamyl aldehyde4 ,oil of cinnamon leaves is an inferior product1 often used for adulterating oil of ,ceylon cinnamon4 ,it does not deserve notice by the perfumer4 ,as an appendix we may add in this connection a description of the ,,oil ,,of ,,turpentine 7,,oleum ,,terebinthin71 because it must be called an important substance to know for the perfumer1 inasmuch as it is very frequently used for the adulteration of different essential oils4 ,oil of turpentine1 which is obtained from incisions into the bark of different fir and pine trees1 the exuding resin being distilled with water1 comes into commerce from various sources4 ,different sorts are distinguished1 but to the perfumer only the rectified oil of turpentine1 oleum terebinthin rectificatum1 is important4 ,oil of turpentine has a yellowish color and a decidedly disagreeable1 resinous1 and burnt taste4 ,by repeated distillation1 especially over quicklime or chloride of lime 7bleaching powder71 it is finally obtained as a colorless1 very refractive liquid with a density of #jhee to #jhgj and a boiling-point at #afj ,c4 7#cbj ,f474 ,its odor is peculiar1 but not easily distinguished from that of old essential oils1 such as oils of caraway1 anise1 etc4 ,one peculiarity of oil of turpentine is that its odor is easily masked by that of other essential oils1 so that1 for instance1 a comparatively large quantity of oil of turpentine needs the addition of but little oil of anise to impart to the entire mixture a rather pronounced odor of anise4 ,this peculiarity has led to the frequent employment of rectified oil of turpentine for the adulteration of other essential oils4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,the ,,adulterations ,,of ,,essential ,,oils ,,and ,,their ,,recognition4 ,we find it necessary to devote a special chapter to the adulterations of the commercial essential oils because an experience of many years has shown us that hardly any other group of products is subject to so many sophistications as essential oils4 ,the high price of most aromatic substances and the difficulty of recognizing the adulteration furnish an inviting field to the unscrupulous manufacturer4 ,in the best interest of the perfumer1 therefore1 we advise the purchase of essential oils only from renowned reliable houses1 even at higher prices1 for the cheap commercial products are almost worthless1 since they are almost without exception adulterated4 ,the adulterations are very manifold4 ,some expensive oils are mixed with cheaper ones having a similar odor--for instance1 oil of rose with oil of geranium or oil of geranium grass2 oil of orange flowers with the oil from ,philadelphus coronarius2 oil of verbena with oil of lemon grass2 oils of caraway1 anise1 and fennel with oil of turpentine2 oil of cinnamon with oil of cassia1 etc4 ,besides these1 other deceptions are practised--for instance1 oil of anise is mixed with oil of turpentine and in order to make the mixture congeal readily 7which is the characteristic of true oil of anise1 as above stated7 paraffin or spermaceti is added4 ,a similar practice prevails with adulterated oil of rose and other viscid oils4 ,oil of bitter almond we have found adulterated with or entirely replaced by nitrobenzol1 etc4 ,the demonstration of the adulteration of an essential oil by chemical means offers many difficulties4 ,we devote particular attention to the physical characteristics1 for experience has shown us that the olfactory organ--provided it is very expert--is often able to determine the genuineness of any aromatic substance when other tests have given only uncertain results1 or can give certain results only in the hands of experts4 ,to make this test1 however1 quite reliable1 it is necessary to be familiar with the substances in their pure unadulterated condition4 ,the manufacturer of perfumery1 therefore1 should spare neither trouble nor pecuniary sacrifices to obtain possession of absolutely genuine specimens of those essential oils1 even in minute quantities1 which he intends to employ4 ,such samples should be carefully preserved 7protected from heat1 evaporation1 daylight1 etc47 for the purpose of immediate comparison with the oils to be purchased4 ,as above stated1 the physical properties of the essential oils usually furnish the means of recognizing their purity1 and these give more reliable results to the practical perfumer than the chemical tests4 ,the most valuable points are furnished by the boiling-point1 the congealing-point1 and the density of the oils4 ,the following table gives the boiling and congealing points of the most important essential oils in degrees of the centigrade thermometer1 together with the density 7or specific gravity72 where two figures are given1 they indicate the extreme limits found in genuine samples4 ,special characteristics of some essential oils with reference to their action at low temperatures or their melting-point are given in the column 8,remarks40 ,oil of turpentine1 paraffin1 wax1 and spermaceti being frequently used for the adulteration of essential oils1 have been included in the table4 ,if accurate results are aimed at in the examination of an essential oil according to this table1 the specific gravity should be determined by means of a scale sensitive to one one-thousandth gram1 and the thermometer should be graduated to the tenth of a degree4 ,,table ,,showing ,,the ,,approximate ,,density1 ,,boiling ,,and ,,congealing ,,points ,,of ,,the ,,most ,,important ,,essential ,,oils ,,used ,,in ,,perfumery4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------- ,boiling- ,congealing- ,essential ,oil ,density4 ,point1 ,point1 ,remarks4 of ,deg4 ,c4 ,deg4 ,c4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------- ,absinth #jhie 444 444 ,anise #jihj 444 #aj-ae ,bergamot #jhej-jhij #ahh -#bd ,bitter almond #ajdj #ahj 444 ,do41 art4 7nitrobenzol7 #ahff #bac #c ,cajuput #jhhj 444 444 ,calamus #jifb 444 444 ,camomile #jibd #afj-baj 444 ,camphor 7,borneo7 444 #bab 444 ,melts at #aih 7,chinese7 #jihe #bje 444 ,melts at #age ,caraway #jifj #aie 444 ,cassia #ajfj #beb-bee 444 ,cedar wood 444 #bfd -#bb ,cinnamon #ajcj-ajce #bdj below -#be leaf #ajec 444 444 ,clove #ajcd-ajee #bdh below #bj ,forms crystals -#af ,coriander #jhga #aej-bjj 444 ,crispmint #jigh 444 444 ,cubeb #jhhj 444 444 ,fennel #jifj-jihj 444 #h ,gaultheria #aagc #bbd 444 ,geranium #jhie #baf-bbj 444 ,forms crystals -#af ,hyssop #jhhi 444 444 ,juniper #jhgj 444 444 ,lavender #jhgj-jidj #ahf-aib 444 ,spike-lavender 444 #adj 444 ,lemon #jhej-jhgj #agg-bej 444 grass #jhgj-jhih #bbj -#bb ,limetta #jica 444 444 ,mace #jhij-jiej 444 444 ,marjoram #jhij-jibj #afc 444 ,melissa #jhee 444 444 ,neroli #jhhi-jhhi #age 444 ,forms crystals -#af ,nutmeg #jhhj-jidh #agb 444 butter 444 444 #ca ,olibanum 444 #afb 444 ,orange1 bitter #jhcj-jhfj #agf 444 sweet #jhdj-jhej #agf 444 ,parsley #ajae 444 444 ,patchouly #jiej-ajab #bhb-bid 444 ,peppermint #jijb-jicj #ahh-bab 444 ,portugal 7orange peel7 #jhdj-jhej #agf 444 ,rose #jhcb #bbi #ad-bj ,rosemary #jhie-jiaf #ahe 444 ,rue #jiaa 444 444 ,sage #jijb 444 444 ,santal #jiej-jihj #bhh -#bb ,sassafras #ajhb 444 444 ,serpyllum #jhij-jibj 444 444 ,star-anise #jihb 444 444 ,thyme #jhgj-jidj #agj-ahj 444 ,vanilla 444 #aej #gf ,vetiver #ajjg #bhf 444 ,wintergreen #aahj #bbj 444 ,ylang-ylang #jihj 444 444 ,turpentine #jhee-jhgj #afj 444 ,paraffin #jhgj 444 444 ,melts at #ej-fe ,wax #jifj-jigj 444 444 ,melts at #fe-gj ,spermaceti #jidc 444 444 ,melts at #de-ej ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------- ,in buying essential oils1 except it be from a house whose reputation is a guaranty of their genuineness1 it is to the interest of the perfumer to make a test4 ,he must look for certain substances which are generally used for the sophistication of essential oils4 ,these are3 ,a4 ,other essential oils2 ,b4 ,fixed oils2 ,c4 ,alcohol2 ,d4 ,paraffin1 spermaceti1 wax4 ,a4 ,,adulteration ,,of ,,essential ,,oils ,,with ,,other ,,essential ,,oils4 ,this mode of adulteration1 which is frequent1 is naturally the one most difficult of demonstration4 ,in the case of cheap oils such as those of caraway1 lemon1 orange peel1 etc41 rectified oil of turpentine is almost without exception the adulterant4 ,the methods usually recommended1 such as attempting to dissolve out the oil of turpentine by strong alcohol1 hoping thus to separate it from the essential oil1 are without practical value4 ,the adulteration can1 however1 often be demonstrated by rubbing a drop of the suspected oil on a glass plate and testing the odor1 provided the olfactory organ is trained4 ,as the above table shows1 the oils have different high boiling-points1 while oil of turpentine boils at a rather low temperature1 hence it evaporates sooner than the others and can be demonstrated by its odor4 ,the demonstration of an adulteration with an essential oil is most certain by so-called fractional distillation4 ,some of the oil to be examined 7about four to six fluidrachms7 is placed in a small retort with condenser and heated to a temperature a few degrees below the boiling-point of the oil in question4 ,if1 for instance1 oil of bergamot adulterated with oil of turpentine is to be tested1 it is heated carefully to nearly #ahh ,c4 7#cgj ,f471 the boiling-point of the oil of bergamot2 the oil of turpentine which boils at #afj ,c4 7#cbj ,f47 passes over completely1 while the oil of bergamot remains in the retort4 ,fractional distillation is also the most reliable way of demonstrating an adulteration with a fixed oil or with paraffin1 wax1 or spermaceti4 ,an adulteration of oil of lavender with oil of spike-lavender1 which is otherwise barely recognizable1 is positively shown by this method2 even oil of geranium in oil of rose1 oil of cassia in oil of cinnamon1 etc41 may be thus demonstrated4 ,b4 ,,adulteration ,,of ,,essential ,,oils ,,with ,,fixed ,,oils4 ,an addition of fixed oils can be easily demonstrated by agitation of the oil with strong alcohol in which the essential oil dissolves1 while the fixed oil remains unchanged4 ,castor oil1 however1 is likewise soluble in alcohol and for this reason is frequently used for the adulteration of essential oils4 ,yet the presence of a fixed oil can also be shown in a very simple manner by placing a drop of the suspected oil upon white paper and leaving it for some hours in a warm spot4 ,if the oil was pure1 the translucent stain on the paper will disappear completely 7also when the oil was adulterated with turpentine72 but if it was mixed with a fixed oil1 the stain will remain permanently and cannot be removed from the paper even by strong heat4 ,c4 ,,adulteration ,,with ,,alcohol4 ,this frequent adulteration is demonstrated either by fractional distillation1 when the alcohol passes over first between #gj and #hj ,c4 7#aeh and #agf ,f471 or by the use of the vessel illustrated in ,fig4 #ca1 which is divided into #ajj equal parts4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ca4 ,the vessel is filled to the tenth division with the oil to be tested1 and water is added to bring the volume to the #ej mark4 ,if alcohol is present1 it is taken up by the water so that the volume of oil appears to diminish4 ,if the oil reaches to the mark #g1 it contained three volumes of alcohol1 or in other words it was mixed with thirty per cent of alcohol4 ,it is true1 essential oils likewise dissolve somewhat in water1 but in such minute quantities as not to affect the success of the test4 ,d4 ,,adulteration ,,with ,,paraffin1 ,,spermaceti1 ,,or ,,wax4 ,this mode of adulteration is practised mainly with viscid oils which congeal at rather high temperatures1 such as oils of anise1 rose1 etc41 the essential oils being usually mixed at the same time with oil of turpentine or paraffin4 ,the fraud is easily detected by fractional distillation4 ,oil of bitter almonds is often adulterated with oil of mirbane2 this can be demonstrated by shaking #a volume of the oil with #ag volumes of alcohol of #de1 and setting the mixture aside to settle4 ,the nitrobenzol 7oil of mirbane7 will then collect at the bottom4 ,oil of ,rose may be tested as follows3 ,mix the oil with an equal quantity of concentrated sulphuric acid4 ,neither the color nor the odor of the oil should be changed1 but if oil of geranium was present a disagreeable odor and a darker color is produced4 ,it has been proposed1 too1 to test the oils by heating with iodine or nitric acid and determining the purity by the reaction2 but the results with the different oils are so similar that the test is almost worthless4 ,we have had the same experience with the test by nitro-prusside of copper which on being heated with essential oils gives colored precipitates differing with various oils1 but still so similar that they cannot be relied upon4 ,we have found in all cases that a comparison of an oil with a sample of known purity is the best1 or else the tests given in the preceding pages4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,the ,,essences ,,or ,,extracts ,,employed ,,in ,,perfumery4 ,the term essence or extract in perfumery means a solution of an aromatic substance in strong alcohol4 ,these solutions are generally made as concentrated as possible and in this form find application in the manufacture of handkerchief perfumes and of certain odors bearing a special name4 ,the so-called extrait d'illet1 extract of pink1 or the favorite perfumes known as new-mown hay have nothing in common with either pink or hay except the name2 like many other odors1 both are merely mixtures of different essences or extracts4 ,besides the manufacture of true perfumes1 essences or extracts are also used for scenting fine soaps1 sachets1 mouth washes1 etc4 ,for the latter1 too1 use is often made of the so-called aromatic waters 7eaux aromatises7 which are obtained as a by-product in the distillation of fragrant plants1 and have a very fine odor owing to the small amount of the aromatic substance they hold in solution4 ,to this class belong orange-flower water 7,aqua ,naph triplex1 eau de fleurs d'oranges71 peppermint water 7,aqua ,menth1 eau de menthe71 and many others4 ,essences or extracts can be made in two ways3 in the case of aromatic substances which are obtainable in the pure state--that is1 essential oils--by dissolving them in strong alcohol in definite proportions2 in the case of aromatics combined with a fatty substance by one of the processes described above1 by treating the pomade 7lard1 or other perfectly bland1 sweet1 and in itself odorless fat combined with the aromatic7 or huile antique 7fixed oil holding the aromatic substance in solution7 with the strongest alcohol4 ,according to the action of the alcohol upon the pomade or huile antique at ordinary or higher temperature1 the process is called cold or warm infusion4 ,cold infusion furnishes the odor in a much more delicate and superior form than the warm4 ,the cold infusion requires for complete solution of the aromatic four to six weeks2 the warm1 ten to fourteen days4 ,although the former consumes a much longer time1 it is to be preferred1 as the heat injures the odor4 ,pomades or huiles antiques are never completely exhausted by a single treatment with alcohol4 ,even when heat is employed they always retain a portion of the aromatic with great tenacity2 a second and third infusion still abstracts odor from them1 and finally nothing remains but pure fat with a pleasant odor which is stained and sold commercially as pomade under the name of the respective odor--violet1 orange flower1 reseda1 etc4--or else is used over again in the factory for the extraction of flowers4 ,experience has shown us that it is best to infuse the pomades or huiles antiques twice in the cold and to use the two fluids united for the finest perfumes2 the residue by warm infusion furnishes an essence of second quality1 and superior pomades or fragrant oils4 ,the infusion is generally effected in strong glass bottles of a capacity of three to five gallons2 about five to six quarts of cologne spirit being poured over six to eight pounds or pints of fat or huile antique4 ,in treating huiles antiques all parts of the oil should be brought into contact with the alcohol as much as possible1 hence the bottles must be frequently shaken2 a better plan is to bring the tightly closed bottles into an apparatus in which they are constantly agitated by rotation4 ,such an apparatus is easily made by placing the bottles in an inclined position between two rods fastened to a common axis which is kept revolving4 ,the adjoining illustration 7,fig4 #cb7 shows such a contrivance which is required also in the manufacture of perfumes4 ,the rotation may be effected by clockwork1 water power1 or any other motor4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cb4 ,pomades being solid must be divided into small pieces which may be done with a knife1 but the following procedure is more suitable and less laborious4 ,the pomade is placed in a tin cylinder four inches wide and about a foot high1 which is open at one end1 the other being closed with a tin plate having several fine openings4 ,the cylinder filled with pomade is set upon the bottle containing the alcohol for extraction1 and the pomade is pressed through the openings in the shape of thin threads by means of a piston4 ,in this way1 of course1 the pomade acquires a very large surface and rapidly yields the aromatic substance to the alcohol4 ,the odor of the pomade differs according to the length of time which it has been subjected to the flowers1 and on being treated with alcohol furnishes extracts of corresponding strength4 ,this should be borne in mind in the manufacture of perfumes which are intended to be uniform in quality4 ,after two cold and one warm infusion of the pomade1 it may be made to yield some more aromatic material by heating it carefully to its exact melting-point1 when extract again appears on the surface and can be poured off by gentle inclination of the vessel4 ,in the following pages we give the proportions by weight and measure employed by the most important ,french1 ,english1 and ,german manufacturers for their pomade extracts or solutions of the essential oils in alcohol4 ,as to the latter we again repeat that it must be over #hh to #ij strength according to ,tralles or even stronger1 and that it must be absolutely free from any trace of amyl alcohol 7potato fusel oil71 the least amount of which impairs the delicacy of the odor4 ,in this country 7the ,united ,states7 there is no difficulty whatever in obtaining alcohol of proper strength4 ,the market offers scarcely any other but that of #id4 ,of course deodorized alcohol1 or so-called ,cologne spirit should be used4 ,grain and wine spirits are the kinds which when rectified are to be preferred to all others4 ,all the citron oils 7i4e41 oils of lemon1 bergamot1 and those with similar odor71 rose oils 7oils of rose1 geranium1 and rhodium71 and many other sweet scents are most fragrant when dissolved in pure spirit of wine1 while the odors from the animal kingdom and those of violet 7violet and orris root7 smell sweetest when dissolved in grain spirit4 ,the essences prepared from pomades or huiles antiques usually contain in solution some fat which is best removed by cooling4 ,to this end the vessels containing the essences are placed in a vat and surrounded with pellets of ice and crystals of chloride of calcium4 ,by this mixture the temperature can be reduced below-#bj ,c4 7-#d ,f471 and after some time the fats are deposited in a solid form at the bottom of the vessel4 ,this is then taken from the vat and the essence carefully poured from the sediment4 ,the alcoholic extracts of the pomades or solutions of the aromatics are called essences or extracts 7,french1 extraits72 the solutions obtained from resins and balsams are usually termed tinctures4 ,while some extracts1 owing to their strong odor1 can be used only when diluted with alcohol1 others are employed in perfumes as such4 ,pure extracts 7extraits purs7 are those containing only a single odor and are but rarely used as perfumes2 the latter are usually mixtures of several1 often a great many odors4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,directions ,,for ,,making ,,the ,,most ,,important ,,essences ,,and ,,extracts4 ,,note4--,there is considerable confusion1 in works on perfumery1 regarding the terms essence and extract4 ,in ,french works1 essence always means 8essential oil40 ,thus 8essence de rose0 is 8essential oil of roses10 or 8attar 7otto7 of roses40 ,extrait 7,french7 is used of alcoholic solutions of oils1 as well as alcoholic extracts of pomades1 or of substances not wholly soluble in alcohol1 and also of compound liquids4 ,in ,english1 essence is used1 and should be confined to alcoholic solutions of essential oils 78essence of lemon10 8essence of peppermint074 ,it is1 then1 equivalent to the term 8spirit10 which is also used only of alcoholic solutions of essential oils or other volatile substance 7such as3 spirit of peppermint1 essence of peppermint2 spirit of camphor1 etc474 ,liquid alcoholic extracts of substances not wholly soluble in alcohol are properly called tinctures 7for instance1 tincture of benzoin1 tincture of musk72 and liquid alcoholic extracts of pomades1 or compound odorous liquids1 are best comprised under the general term extracts4 ,we shall employ the terms essence1 extract1 and tincture in the sense here explained4 ,,extract ,,of ,,cassie 7,,extrait ,,de ,,cassie74 ,cassie pomade #f lbs4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,extract of cassie has a fine green color--a fact which is not desirable in perfumes intended for the handkerchief because colored preparations leave stains4 ,however1 extract of cassie is rarely used pure1 but is generally mixed with other odors for handkerchief perfumes1 whereby the color is so much diluted that it may be disregarded4 ,this extract--and the same remark applies to all the others--immediately after its preparation must be put into tightly closed vessels and preserved in the coolest attainable dark place2 for light1 air1 and heat must be called the destroyers of perfumes1 since the most delightful odors eventually disappear under their influence4 ,for the benefit of manufacturers who import this extract from ,southern ,france1 the main source of supply1 we may add that the word cassie or extrait de cassie1 derived from the flowers of ,acacia farnesiana1 might readily give rise to confusion with extrait de cassia1 made from the bark of the cinnamon cassia4 ,,tincture ,,of ,,ambergris 7,,extrait ,d',,ambregris74 ,ambergris #e oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,the ambergris should be broken into small pieces with a chopping knife repeatedly moistened with alcohol1 and allowed to digest in the alcohol for some weeks at a temperature of about #cj ,c4 7#hf ,f474 ,,tincture ,,of ,,benzoin 7,,extrait ,,de ,,benjoin74 ,benzoin #aj oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,this tincture is not so much used for handkerchief perfumes as for preserving many pomades1 as it possesses the valuable property of preventing fats from becoming rancid4 ,,essence ,,of ,,bergamot 7,,extrait ,,de ,,bergamotte74 ,oil of bergamot #h oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,tincture ,,of ,,castor 7,,extrait ,,de ,,castoreum74 ,castor #b oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,tincture ,,of ,,musk ,,seed 7,,extrait ,d',,ambrette74 ,musk seed1 powdered #a lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,essence ,,of ,,bitter ,,almond 7,,extrait ,d',,amande74 ,oil of bitter almond #a oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,essence ,,of ,,calamus 7,,extrait ,,de ,,gla,,eul74 ,oil of calamus #a oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,this essence has a pleasant odor1 but it is not valued as a true perfume2 though if it is mixed with other essences or extracts until its characteristic odor is no longer recognizable it furnishes a very useful basis for many cheap articles4 ,,essence ,,of ,,cedar 7,,extrait ,,de ,c,,dre74 ,oil of cedar wood lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,this essence made from the oil is colorless and can be used immediately for handkerchief perfumes4 ,,tincture ,,of ,,cedar 7,,extrait ,,de ,,bois ,,de ,c,,dre74 ,this is made by digesting finely rasped cedar wood with strong alcohol1 namely3 ,cedar wood chips #f lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,the result is a fragrant tincture with a beautiful deep red color which cannot be employed for handkerchief perfumes1 but for many cosmetic preparations such as mouth washes and for scenting soap4 ,,essence ,,of ,,citronella4 ,extrait de citronella #c to #c oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,essence ,,of ,,lemon ,,grass 7,,extrait ,,de ,,schoenanthe74 ,oil of lemon grass #b to #c oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,extract ,,of ,,lilac 7,,extrait ,,de ,,lilas74 ,the genuine is seldom made2 the preparation sold under this name consists of3 ,oil of bitter almond #ae grains4 ,extract of orange flowers1 from pomade #b qts4 ,extract of tuberose1 from pomade #c qts4 ,tincture of civet pint4 ,of late1 extract of lilac is often prepared by means of lilacin or terpineol1 as follows3 ,lilacin #a oz4 ,alcohol #a pint4 ,,extract ,,of ,,honeysuckle 7,,extrait ,,de ,,ch,,vre-,,feuille74 ,the author has made this extract by treating the pomade prepared from the flowers of ,lonicera ,caprifolium1 in the following proportion3 ,honeysuckle pomade #f lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,the commercial extract of this name is always a compound which may be prepared according to the following formula3 ,extract of rose1 made from the pomade #a qt4 ,extract of tuberose1 from pomade #a qt4 ,extract of violet1 from pomade #a qt4 ,tincture of vanilla pint4 ,tincture of ,tolu pint4 ,oil of bitter almond #ae grains4 ,oil of neroli #h grains4 ,,essence ,,of ,,geranium4 ,oil of geranium 7rose-geranium7 #e oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,in the commercial article the essence of lemon grass is often substituted for the essence of geranium1 the odor being similar1 though less delicate4 ,,extract ,,of ,,cucumber 7,,extrait ,,de ,,concombres74 ,cucumbers #h lbs4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,the cucumbers are peeled1 cut into thin slices1 and macerated in the warm alcohol4 ,if the odor is not strong enough in the alcohol after some days1 it is poured over some more fresh slices1 the macerated residue is expressed1 and at the end of the operation all the liquids are united and filtered4 ,,extract ,,of ,,heliotrope 7,,extrait ,,de ,h,,liotrope74 ,heliotrope pomade #f lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,this has thus far been manufactured only by ,french perfumers at very high prices2 the great majority of the so-called extracts of heliotrope are compounded from3 ,extract of rose1 from pomade #b qts4 ,extract of orange flowers1 from pomade #ad oz4 ,tincture of ambergris #g oz4 ,tincture of vanilla #d qts4 ,oil of bitter almond #ge grains4 ,this is used as a perfume as such4 ,more recently1 piperonal1 under the name heliotropin1 is used for making this extract-- ,heliotropin oz4 ,alcohol #a ,pint4 ,it is necessary to blend this with various other aromatics in order to cover the pronounced odor4 ,a little cumarin is usually of great help4 ,but is it impossible1 as yet1 to give reliable proportions which would suit all cases4 ,,extract ,,of ,,jasmine 7,,extrait ,,de ,,jasmin74 ,jasmine pomade #f lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,essence ,,of ,,lavender 7,,extrait ,,de ,,lavande74 ,oil of lavender #g oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,a far superior essence may be prepared by the distillation of3 ,oil of lavender #g oz4 ,rose water #b qts4 ,alcohol #aj qts4 ,the distillation is continued until one-half of the entire liquid has passed over2 the residue in the still furnishes an essence of lavender of the second quality4 ,,extract ,,of ,,wallflower 7,,extrait ,,de ,,girofl74 ,the genuine odor can be made only from the pomade2 the commercial extract consists of3 ,extract of cassie1 from pomade #a pint4 ,extract of orange flower1 from pomade #a qt4 ,extract of rose1 from pomade #a qt4 ,tincture of vanilla4 #a pint4 ,tincture of orris root #a pint4 ,oil of bitter almond #a pint4 ,,extract ,,of ,,lily 7,,extrait ,,de ,,lys74 ,as to this delightful odor the remark made under the preceding head applies likewise2 artificial extract of lily consists of3 ,extract of cassie1 from pomade #c pints4 ,extract of jasmine1 from pomade #ac fl4 oz4 ,extract of orange flower1 from pomade #bg fl4 oz4 ,extract of rose1 from pomade #c pints4 ,extract of tuberose1 from pomade #c qts4 ,tincture of vanilla #dj fl4 oz4 ,oil of bitter almond #cj grains4 ,,essence ,,of ,,lemon 7,,extrait ,,de ,,limon74 ,oil of lemon #g oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,extract ,,of ,,magnolia 7,,extrait ,,de ,,magnolia74 ,this favorite perfume is a mixture of3 ,extract of orange flower1 from pomade #b qts4 ,extract of rose1 from pomade #d qts4 ,extract of tuberose1 from pomade #a qt4 ,extract of violet1 from pomade #a qt4 ,oil of bitter almond #dj grains4 ,oil of lemon #af grains4 ,,essence ,,of ,,peppermint 7,,extrait ,,de ,,menthe74 ,oil of peppermint #f oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,tincture ,,of ,,musk 7,,extrait ,,de ,,musc74 ,musk #b oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,this tincture is of special importance1 not so much because of its odor as on account of its useful property of fixing other very volatile odors4 ,,extract ,,of ,,myrtle 7,,extrait ,,de ,,myrte74 ,owing to the small yield of essential oil furnished on distillation by the myrtle and the comparatively high price of the oil of myrtle1 nearly all the extract of myrtle is prepared artificially1 as follows3 ,extract of jasmine1 from pomade pint4 ,extract of orange flower1 from pomade #a qt4 ,extract of rose1 from pomade #b qts4 ,extract of tuberose1 from pomade #a qt4 ,tincture of vanilla #a qt4 ,,extract ,,of ,,narcissus4 ,in perfumery1 two extracts of narcissus are distinguished--true extract of narcissus1 from the flowers of the garden plant1 ,narcissus poeticus1 and the so-called extract of jonquille1 from ,narcissus ,jonquilla1 which is cultivated in ,southern ,france and whose odor is obtained by maceration4 ,genuine extract of narcissus is even more rarely obtainable than extract of jonquille2 the odors of both are imitated1 mainly according to the following prescriptions3 #a4 ,,extract ,,of ,,narcissus 7,,extrait ,,de ,,narcisse74 ,extract of jonquille1 from pomade #b qts4 ,extract of tuberose1 from pomade #c qts4 ,tincture of storax pint4 ,tincture of tolu pint4 #b4 ,,extract ,,of ,,jonquille 7,,extrait ,,de ,,jonquille74 ,extract of jasmine1 from pomade #b qts4 ,extract of orange flower1 from pomade #a qt4 ,extract of tuberose1 from pomade #b qts4 ,tincture of vanilla pint4 ,,essence ,,of ,,clove 7,,extrait ,,de ,,clous ,,de ,,girofles74 ,oil of clove #d oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,extract ,,of ,,pink 7,,extrait ,d',,illet74 ,this pleasant odor occurs in commerce only as an imitation4 ,extract of cassie1 from pomade #b pints4 ,extract of orange flower1 from pomade #b pints4 ,extract of rose1 from pomade #e pints4 ,tincture of vanilla #bj fl4 oz4 ,oil of clove1 a sufficient quantity1 about #ge grains4 ,the oil of clove which determines the characteristic odor of this extract is dissolved in a little alcohol2 of this solution enough is gradually added to the mixture until the odor has become sufficiently strong4 ,,extract ,,of ,,orange ,,flower ,,or ,,neroli 7,,extrait ,,de ,,fleurs ,d',,oranges1 ,,extrait ,,de ,n,,roli74 ,orange-flower pomade #f lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,or1 ,oil neroli ptale #b oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,the latter preparation is also called 8essence of neroli40 ,the extract prepared from the pomade furnishes this highly esteemed odor of a delicacy never to be approached by that made with oil4 ,the alcoholic extract of the pomade perfumed with the flowers of ,syringa 7,philadelphus coronarius7 also occurs in commerce as extract of orange flowers or neroli4 ,,essence ,,of ,,patchouly 7,,extrait ,,de ,,patchouli74 ,oil of patchouly #a oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,this pure essence of patchouly has not a very pleasant odor2 that made according to the following formula is far superior4 ,oil of patchouly #a oz4 ,oil of rose oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,tincture ,,of ,,balsam ,,of ,,peru 7,,extrait ,,de ,p,,rou74 ,peru balsam #aj oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,this tincture1 though of a very pleasant odor1 can be used only for scenting soap or sachets1 as it has a very dark brown color2 by distilling alcohol over ,peru balsam a colorless extract is obtained1 though of a fainter odor4 ,,essence ,,of ,,allspice 7,,extrait ,,de ,,piment74 ,oil of allspice #c oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,extract ,,of ,,sweet ,,pea 7,,extrait ,,de ,,pois ,,de ,,senteur74 ,this extract1 made almost exclusively in ,southern ,france by maceration of the pomade1 is but rarely met with in commerce2 what passes under this name is made as follows3 ,extract of orange flower1 from pomade #b pints4 ,extract of rose1 from pomade #b pints4 ,extract of tuberose1 from pomade #b pints4 ,tincture of vanilla #e oz4 ,,extract ,,of ,,reseda 7,,extrait ,,de ,,mignonette74 ,reseda pomade #e to #f lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,tincture of tolu #e oz4 ,the addition of the tincture of tolu is necessary here1 owing to the extraordinary volatility of the delightful odor of mignonette1 which is lessened by the addition of tincture of tolu4 ,,essence ,,or ,,extract ,,of ,,rose 7,,extraits ,,de ,,rose74 ,in commerce several sorts of essence or extract of rose are distinguished2 only the cheaper grades are made by direct solution of the oil of rose in alcohol1 the better grades are prepared only from pomades4 ,as the rose is the noblest of flowers1 so are these odors the most magnificent thus far produced by the art of perfumery1 since they are approached in delicacy and fragrance only by the genuine extracts of orange flower and violet4 ,the so-called rose waters 7eaux de rose7 are best obtained by distillation of fresh or salted rose leaves with water4 ,the preceding formul will show that both extract of rose and rose water form important constituents of many compound essences1 hence these materials require special attention4 ,in the following pages we enumerate only those formul which are acknowledged as the best and furnish the finest product4 ,as rose water likewise belongs among the rose odors we give directions for its preparation1 and observe in passing that the precautions required in the manufacture of this one apply also to all aromatic waters 7eaux aromatises74 ,the first essential to the production of a fine aromatic water is the employment of the freshest possible flowers2 when kept in stock1 chemical changes occur in the leaves which affect also the aromatic constituents and lead to a deterioration of the fragrance4 ,hence we urgently recommend to distil the freshly gathered flowers as soon as possible1 even if the quantity on hand be small4 ,should this not be feasible1 it is advisable to press the flowers immediately after gathering in stone-ware pots and to pour over them a saturated solution of table salt4 ,a concentrated saline solution prevents decomposition by the abstraction of water2 and thus larger quantities of flowers may be gathered and distilled with the salt solution4 ,the majority of aromatic waters are prepared in this way1 for instance1 rose1 jasmine1 lilac1 and others4 ,they enter less into handkerchief perfumes than into various mouth and other washes1 and cosmetics in general4 ,,rose ,,water 7,,eau ,,de ,,rose ,,triple74 ,rose leaves #d lb4 ,water #bj pints4 ,mix them1 and by means of steam1 distil #aj pints4 ,the rose leaves are1 of course1 preferably to be used while fresh4 ,if they are to be preserved for future use1 they should be packed in stone-ware jars1 and covered with a solution of common salt4 ,this is poured off before distillation1 but used over again for the same purpose4 ,,extract ,,of ,,rose 7,,extrait ,,de ,,roses ,,triple74 ,rose pomade #h lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,essence ,,of ,,oil ,,of ,,rose 7,,esprit ,,de ,,roses ,,triple74 ,oil of rose #c oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,this essence is not so good as the extract4 ,,extract ,,of ,,china ,,roses 7,,essence ,,de ,,roses ,,jaunes74 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #b qts4 ,tincture of tonka pint4 ,extract of tuberose #b qts4 ,extract of verbena pint4 ,,extract ,,of ,,sweet-,,brier 7,,wild ,,rose7 7,,extrait ,d',,eglantine74 ,extract of cassie1 from pomade #dd fl4 oz4 ,extract of orange flower1 from pomade #dd fl4 oz4 ,extract of rose1 from pomade #b qts4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #dd fl4 oz4 ,oil of lemon grass oz4 ,oil of neroli oz4 ,,extract ,,of ,,moss-,,rose 7,,extrait ,,de ,,roses ,,mousseuses74 ,extract of rose1 from pomade #b qts4 ,extract of orange flower1 from pomade #a qt4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,tincture of ambergris #a pint4 ,tincture of musk lb4 ,,extract ,,of ,,tea-,,rose 7,,extrait ,,de ,,rosa ,,th,a74 ,extract of rose1 from pomade #a qt4 ,extract of geranium1 from pomade #a qt4 ,extract of orange flower1 from pomade pint4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,tincture of santal pint4 ,tincture of orris root pint4 ,,extract ,,of ,,white ,,rose 7,,essence ,,de ,,roses ,,blanches74 ,extract of rose1 from pomade #a qt4 ,extract of jasmine1 from pomade #a pint4 ,extract of violet1 from pomade #a qt4 ,essence of patchouly pint4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,,extract ,,of ,,twin-,,roses 7,,essence ,,de ,,roses ,,jumelles74 ,extract of rose1 from pomade #e qts4 ,oil of rose #a oz4 ,,extract ,,of ,,santal 7,,extrait ,,de ,,santal74 ,tincture of santal #c oz4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a pint4 ,alcohol #i pints4 ,,tincture ,,of ,,storax 7,,essence ,,de ,,styrax74 ,storax #aj oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,though this tincture has a pleasant odor1 it is not ordinarily used by itself1 but for fixing other odors4 ,,tincture ,,of ,,tolu 7,,extrait ,,de ,,baume ,,de ,,tolou74 ,tolu balsam #aj oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,the remark made under tincture of storax applies also to this4 ,,tincture ,,of ,,tonka 7,,extrait ,,de ,,tonka74 ,tonka beans1 crushed #ba oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,extract ,,of ,,tuberose 7,,extrait ,,de ,,tuberose74 ,tuberose pomade #h-aj lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,tincture of storax #aj fl4 oz4 ,,tincture ,,of ,,vanilla 7,,extrait ,,de ,,vanille74 ,vanilla1 sliced lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,extract ,,of ,,violet 7,,extrait ,,de ,,violette74 ,violet pomade #f-g lb4 ,extract of cassie #f fl4 oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,this extract is very expensive2 a good imitation is made as follows3 ,extract of cassie1 from pomade #b qts4 ,extract of rose1 from pomade #a qt4 ,extract of tuberose1 from pomade #a qt4 ,tincture of orris root #a qt4 ,oil of bitter almond #ae grains4 ,,tincture ,,of ,,orris ,,root 7,,extrait ,d',,iris74 ,orris root1 powdered #f-g lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,this tincture is sold as a very cheap violet perfume1 but it has also considerable value to perfumery in general1 owing to its fixing power4 ,,extract ,,of ,,verbena 7,,extrait ,,de ,,verveine74 ,true oil of verbena is rather expensive4 ,hence artificial compositions are employed under the name of verbena which resemble the true odor1 though not exactly like it4 ,,extract ,,of ,,verbena ,a4 ,oil of lemon grass #ge grains4 ,oil of lemon #ad oz4 ,oil of orange peel #c oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,this extract is cheap and is used immediately as a perfume4 ,the extract usually sold under the ,french name ,extrait de verveine is more expensive and far superior3 ,,extract ,,of ,,verbena ,b4 ,extract of orange flower1 from pomade #cj fl4 oz4 ,extract of rose1 from pomade #a qt4 ,extract of tuberose1 from pomade oz4 ,oil of citron zeste oz4 ,oil of lemon grass oz4 ,oil of lemon peel #i oz4 ,oil of orange peel #d oz4 ,alcohol #d pints4 ,as already explained1 if hand-pressed oil of lemon 7made by the cuelle process7 is available1 then the 8oil of citron zeste0 7which is this particular kind of oil7 and the 8oil of lemon0 may be simply added together2 that is1 #i oz4 of oil of lemon are used4 ,,extract ,,of ,,volcameria 7,,extrait ,,de ,,volcameria74 ,this extract is no more derived from the fragrant blossom whose name it bears than are those of the lily1 pink1 and others met with in commerce4 ,it is prepared according to the following formula3 ,extract of jasmine1 from pomade #a pint4 ,extract of rose1 from pomade #a qt4 ,extract of tuberose1 from pomade #b qts4 ,extract of violet1 from pomade #b qts4 ,tincture of musk4 pint4 ,,essence ,,of ,,vetiver 7,,extrait ,,de ,v,,tiver74 ,oil of vetiver #b oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,tincture ,,of ,,olibanum 7,,extrait ,d',,oliban1 ,,extrait ,d',,encens74 ,olibanum #a lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,extract ,,of ,,wintergreen 7,,extrait ,,de ,,gaulth,,rie74 ,this essence is more commonly sold under the ,english than the ,french name4 ,its composition is the following3 ,tincture of ambergris #a pint4 ,extract of cassie #a qt4 ,essence of lavender #a pint4 ,extract of orange flower1 from pomade #a qt4 ,extract of rose1 from pomade #b qts4 ,tincture of vanilla4 #a pint4 ,essence of vetiver #a pint4 ,,tincture ,,of ,,civet 7,,extrait ,,de ,,civette74 ,civet4 #a--a oz4 ,orris root #a--a oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,tincture of civet is exceedingly lasting and is generally employed for fixing other odors4 ,as to the quantity required to fix perfumes in general1 we may state that it varies with the nature of the odor4 ,as a rule1 about one-sixteenth part of tincture of civet suffices for even the most volatile perfumes4 ,,tincture ,,of ,,cinnamon 7,,extrait ,,de ,,canelle74 ,cinnamon #a lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,owing to the yellow color left upon handkerchiefs by perfumes prepared with this extract1 it can be used only for common goods1 but it is more frequently employed for scenting soaps4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,the ,,division ,,of ,,perfumery4 ,according to the purposes for which they are intended1 the various articles of perfumery may be divided into several groups4 ,they are3 ,,true ,,perfumes4 ,a4 ,liquid4--,alcoholic handkerchief perfumes4 ,among these are the so-called extracts1 bouquets1 and waters4 ,ammoniacal and acid perfumes3 aromatic vinegars and volatile ammoniacal salts4 ,b4 ,dry4--,sachet powders1 fumigating pastils and powders4 ,,preparations ,,for ,,the ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,skin4 ,emulsions1 crmes1 perfumed soaps1 toilet waters1 nail powders4 ,,preparations ,,for ,,the ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,hair4 ,hair oils1 pomades1 hair washes4 ,,preparations ,,for ,,the ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,mouth4 ,tooth powders1 mouth washes4 ,,cosmetics4 ,paints1 powders1 hair dyes1 depilatories1 etc4 ,in connection with the description of these different articles some remarks will be made about the colors employed in perfumery and about the utensils used with the cosmetics1 such as combs1 brushes1 sponges1 etc4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,the ,,manufacture ,,of ,,handkerchief ,,perfumes1 ,,bouquets1 ,,or ,,aromatic ,,waters4 ,the manufacture of handkerchief perfumes is very simple3 the extracts prepared as directed in ,chapter ,,xi4 are mixed in definite proportions and the perfume is finished4 ,if the extracts are well seasoned1 the perfumes blend in perfect harmony within a few days1 and this time may be even shortened by the use of the apparatus illustrated in ,fig4 #cb4 ,if the extracts have been but recently prepared1 a longer time will be required before the odor of the alcohol and the several constituents is imperceptible and all odors have blended into a harmonious whole4 ,if the manufacturer can afford to allow the finished extracts and perfumes to season for some length of time--of course1 in well-closed and completely filled vessels--in a cool place1 they will improve markedly in quality4 ,perfumes which contain but a single odor or in which a certain odor distinctly predominates are usually called by the name of the respective plant1 etc41 under a ,french title1 e4g41 extrait de violette1 extrait de resda1 etc4 ,combinations of many odors which produce an agreeable impression as a whole1 while no one odor predominates1 are called bouquets or waters2 for instance1 ,bouquet de ,jockey ,club1 ,eau de ,mille ,fleurs1 ,cologne ,water1 ,hungarian ,water1 etc4 ,the mixture of the extracts is effected in strong glass bottles of a capacity exactly adapted to the perfume1 so as to be completely filled4 ,for perfumes which require seasoning to make the odors blend we use small glass balls of which enough are introduced into the bottle to make the mixture rise into the neck of the container which is then closed air-tight and preserved in a dark1 cool place4 ,of course1 all perfumes should be perfectly clear and free from turbidity4 ,the extracts made from pomades or essential oils are clear and furnish perfumes that remain so2 extracts prepared from balsams or resins should be allowed to stand at rest for several weeks and then be carefully decanted from the sediment4 ,filtration should be dispensed with unless absolutely unavoidable1 on account of the large amount of oxygen with which the extract would thereby come in contact1 to the detriment of the odor4 ,the bottles in which the perfumes are mixed1 as well as those in which they are put up for sale1 must be perfectly dry1 as a very small amount of water often suffices to separate a portion of the aromatics and to render the liquid turbid or opalescent4 ,fine perfumes are always sold in glass vessels with ground-glass stoppers2 cork has a peculiar odor which it would communicate to the liquid4 ,for the more perfect exclusion of the air the stoppers and bottle necks are moreover covered with animal membrane1 sheet rubber1 or vegetable parchment1 with an outer cap of white glove leather4 ,in the case of very expensive perfumes1 much care is bestowed on the container2 certain perfumes are filled into bottles of peculiar form and color1 or into small porcelain jars provided with corresponding labels printed in gold and colors4 ,sometimes the container costs many times the price of the perfume4 ,but as the finest perfumes are articles of luxury in the truest sense of the word1 they require extreme care in their putting up2 and good taste in the selection of the containers for fluids1 pomades1 cosmetics1 powders1 etc41 is of as much importance to the perfumer as the possession of a sensitive and trained olfactory organ4 ,in the following formulas for the preparation of bouquets1 the words extract1 essence1 and tincture have the same meaning as was explained under ,chapter ,,xi4 ,for cheap perfumes the corresponding essential oils dissolved in alcohol1 that is1 the corresponding 8essence10 is employed in place of the true 8extract40 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,formulas ,,for ,,handkerchief ,,perfumes4 ,,bouquet ,,de ,l',,alhambra4 ,extract of cassie #a pint4 ,extract of orange flower #a pint4 ,essence of geranium #a qt4 ,extract of tuberose #b qts4 ,tincture of civet #a pint4 ,,extrait ,d',,ambre1 ,i4 ,tincture of ambergris #c qts4 ,tincture of musk #a pints4 ,oil of rose #a oz4 ,tincture of vanilla #ac fl4 oz4 ,alcohol #c pints4 ,,extrait ,d',,ambre1 ,,ii4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #b qts4 ,tincture of ambergris #d qts ,tincture of musk #a qt4 ,tincture of vanilla #a pint4 ,,bouquet ,,de ,l',,amour4 ,extract of cassie #a qt4 ,tincture of ambergris #a pint4 ,extract of jasmine #a qt4 ,tincture of musk #a pint4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,extract of violet #a qt4 ,,baisers ,,du ,,printemps 7,,spring ,,kisses74 ,extract of cassie #a pint4 ,tincture of ambergris #c fl4 oz4 ,extract of jasmine #f fl4 oz4 ,extract of rose #e pints4 ,extract of violet #e pints4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #aj fl4 oz4 ,oil of bergamot #abj grains4 ,oil of lemon #cj grains4 ,note4 ,here and in all succeeding formulas1 8oil of lemon0 is meant to be the finest 8hand-pressed0 oil4 ,,eau ,,de ,,berlin4 ,oil of anise #aej grains4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of cardamom #ae grains4 ,oil of lemon #cj grains4 ,oil of coriander #ae grains4 ,oil of geranium #cj grains4 ,oil of melissa #ae grains4 ,oil of neroli #ge grains4 ,oil of rose #cj grains4 ,oil of santal #cj grains4 ,oil of thyme #ae grains4 ,alcohol #aj qts4 ,,buckingham ,,flowers4 ,extract of cassie #a qt4 ,tincture of ambergris #a pint4 ,extract of jasmine #a qt4 ,extract of orange flower #a qt4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,tincture of orris root #a pint4 ,oil of lavender #dj grains4 ,oil of neroli #dj grains4 ,oil of rose #ge grains4 ,,bouquet ,d',,andorre4 ,extract of jasmine #a pint4 ,extract of rose #a pint4 ,extract of tuberose #a pint4 ,extract of violet #a pint4 ,tincture of orris root #a pint4 ,oil of geranium #ge grains4 ,,bouquet ,,du ,,bosphore4 ,extract of cassie #a qt4 ,extract of jasmine pint4 ,extract of tuberose pint4 ,tincture of civet #ah grains4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 pint4 ,oil of bitter almond #cj grains4 ,,bouquet ,,des ,,chasseurs4 ,extract of cassie #bj fl4 oz4 ,tincture of musk #bj fl4 oz4 ,extract of neroli #bj fl4 oz4 ,extract of orange flower #bj fl4 oz4 ,tincture of tonka bean #dj fl4 oz4 ,tincture of orris root #bj fl4 oz4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #e pints4 ,,bouquet ,,de ,,la ,,cour4 ,tincture of ambergris #b oz4 ,extract of jasmine #a qt4 ,tincture of musk #b oz4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,extract of violet #a qt4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,oil of bergamot #de grains4 ,oil of lemon4 #de grains4 ,oil of neroli #de grains4 ,,bouquet ,,de ,,chypre4 ,tincture of ambergris #a qt4 ,tincture of musk #a qt4 ,tincture of tonka #a qt4 ,tincture of vanilla #a qt4 ,tincture of orris root #a qt4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #b qts4 ,,bouquet ,,des ,d,,lices4 ,tincture of ambergris #a pint4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,extract of tuberose #a qt4 ,extract of violet #a qt4 ,tincture of orris root #a pint4 ,oil of bergamot oz4 ,oil of lemon #a oz4 ,,bouquet ,,de ,,fleurs 7,,nosegay74 ,tincture of benzoin #e oz4 ,extract of rose #c pints4 ,extract of tuberose #c pints4 ,extract of violet #c pints4 ,oil of bergamot #b oz4 ,oil of lemon #a oz4 ,oil of orange peel #a oz4 ,,convallaria 7,,lily ,,of ,,the ,,valley1 ,,fleurs ,,de ,,mai74 ,extract of cassie #a pints4 ,extract of jasmine #a pints4 ,extract of orange flower #a pints4 ,extract of rose #a pints4 ,tincture of vanilla #c pints4 ,oil of bitter almond oz4 ,while this perfume is very pleasant1 its odor has no resemblance to the delicate fragrance of ,convallaria majalis1 our ordinary lily of the valley4 ,,couronne ,,de ,,fleurs 7,,garland ,,of ,,flowers74 ,extract of cassie #bj fl4 oz4 ,tincture of ambergris #ac fl4 oz4 ,extract of jasmine #bj fl4 oz4 ,tincture of musk #ac fl4 oz4 ,tincture of orris root #e pints4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of lavender #a oz4 ,oil of clove #ge grains4 ,oil of neroli #a oz4 ,oil of rose #a oz4 ,alcohol #e pints4 ,,court ,,bouquet4 ,oil of bergamot oz4 ,oil of neroli #bd grains4 ,alcohol #e oz4 ,orris root #a oz4 ,storax1 liquid #h grains4 ,musk #c grains4 ,macerate for two weeks1 and filter4 ,,esterhazy ,,bouquets4 ,an old renowned perfume1 a former rival of ,cologne water2 the name is derived from a noble ,hungarian family4 ,a4 ,,bouquet ,d',,esterhazy 7,,french ,,formula74 ,tincture of ambergris pint4 ,extract of neroli #a qt4 ,extract of orange flower #a qt4 ,tincture of tonka #a qt4 ,tincture of vanilla #a qt4 ,tincture of vetiver #a qt4 ,tincture of orris root #a qt4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,oil of clove #ge grains4 ,oil of santal #ge grains4 ,b4 ,,bouquet ,,esterhazy 7,,german ,,formula74 ,calamus root #c oz4 ,cloves #c oz4 ,nutmeg #c oz4 ,alcohol #d qts4 ,macerate for two weeks and filter2 in the filtrate dissolve3 ,tincture of ambergris #f oz4 ,ammonia #cj grains4 ,oil of bitter almond #cj grains4 ,oil of lemon #c oz4 ,tincture of musk #f oz4 ,oil of neroli #fj grains4 ,oil of orange peel #cj grains4 ,oil of rose #ge grains4 ,c,,dre ,,du ,,libanon 7,,cedar74 ,oil of cedar wood #aj oz4 ,extract of rose #a pint4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,fiori ,d',,italia4 ,extract of cassie #a pint4 ,tincture of ambergris #e oz4 ,extract of jasmine #a qt4 ,tincture of musk #e oz4 ,extract of rose #b qts4 ,extract of violet #a qt4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,,lilac 7,,extrait ,,de ,,lilas74 ,oil of bitter almond #ae grains4 ,extract of orange flower #b qts4 ,extract of tuberose #c qts4 ,tincture of civet #b to #c oz4 ,the above-named ingredients are exceedingly volatile2 according to the desired permanence of the perfume1 more or less of the extract of civet is added4 ,,essence ,,des ,,bouquets1 ,a 7,,ess4 ,,bouquet74 ,tincture of ambergris #a pint4 ,tincture of orris root #b qts4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #b qts4 ,oil of bergamot #d oz4 ,oil of lemon #a oz4 ,,ess4 ,,bouquet1 ,b4 ,extract of cassie #a oz4 ,extract of jasmine #a oz4 ,tincture of musk #a oz4 ,oil of cassia #a oz4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,oil of lavender #a oz4 ,oil of neroli oz4 ,oil of clove #a oz4 ,oil of palmarosa #a oz4 ,oil of petit grain #a oz4 ,oil of ,portugal #a oz4 ,oil of rose #ge grains4 ,oil of thyme #ge grains4 ,alcohol #aj qts4 ,this perfume is much admired in ,england4 ,the title ,ess4 ,bouquet is an abbreviation of the full name given above4 ,,ess4 ,,bouquet1 ,c4 ,tincture of ambergris #b oz4 ,tincture of orris #h oz4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a pint4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,,florida4 ,oil of bergamot #fj grains4 ,oil of lemon #ij grains4 ,oil of lavender #ae grains4 ,oil of clove #h grains4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,bouquet ,,de ,,flore4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,extract of orange flower #a pint4 ,extract of tuberose #a pint4 ,extract of violet pint4 ,tincture of benzoin #c fl4 oz4 ,tincture of storax #c fl4 oz4 ,tincture of musk #a fl4 oz4 ,oil of citronella oz4 ,alcohol #b qts4 ,,honeysuckle 7,,extrait ,,de ,,ch,,vre-,,feuille74 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,extract of tuberose #a qt4 ,extract of violet #a qt4 ,tincture of tolu pint4 ,tincture of vanilla pint4 ,oil of bitter almond #ae grains4 ,oil of neroli #h grains4 ,,heliotrope1 ,a 7,,extrait ,,de ,h,,liotrope74 ,extract of rose #b qts4 ,extract of orange flower #ad oz4 ,tincture of ambergris #g oz4 ,tincture of vanilla #d qts4 ,oil of bitter almond #ge grains4 ,a very lasting perfume which is especially suitable for scenting the linen in a press4 ,,heliotrope1 ,b4 ,vanilla #ae grains4 ,oil of neroli #b drops4 ,oil of bitter almond #a drop4 ,musk #a grains4 ,benzoin #de grains4 ,cologne spirit #c oz4 ,macerate for one week1 and filter4 ,,new-,,mown ,,hay4 ,hay owes its fragrance partly to cumarin1 which is present in many plants1 but in especially large amount in tonka beans4 ,hence all similar perfumes must contain tincture of tonka4 ,other aromatic substances1 however1 contribute to the odor of hay1 but the cumarin gives1 as it were1 the keynote to its real odor4 ,a very pleasant perfume is made after the following formula3 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,essence of geranium #a qt4 ,extract of jasmine #a qt4 ,extract of orange flower #a qt4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,tincture of tonka #b qts4 ,some add to this perfume #a pint of extract of cassie which imparts a greenish color to it4 ,,royal ,,horse-,,guard',s ,,bouquet4 ,extract of orange flower #bj fl4 oz4 ,tincture of musk #aj fl4 oz4 ,extract of rose #e pints4 ,tincture of vanilla #bj fl4 oz4 ,tincture of orris root #bj fl4 oz4 ,oil of clove #abj grains4 ,,bouquet ,d',,irlande4 ,extract of white rose #e qts4 ,tincture of vanilla #a lb4 ,an exceedingly fine perfume4 ,,hovenia4 ,this plant1 ,hovenia dulcis1 indigenous to ,japan1 has a peculiar odor1 which1 however1 is not pleasant to ,european taste4 ,the perfume sold under this name has a special odor1 though it differs from that of the plant4 ,it is made according to the following formula3 ,oil of lemon #c oz4 ,oil of clove oz4 ,oil of neroli #ge grains4 ,oil of rose #ge grains4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,huntsman',s ,,nosegay4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a pint4 ,extract of cassie #f fl4 oz4 ,extract of orange flower #f fl4 oz4 ,tincture of musk #aej grains4 ,tincture of tonka #a pint4 ,oil of citronella #aej grains4 ,alcohol #c qts4 ,,bouquet ,,du ,,japon4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,extract of orange flower #a qt4 ,essence of patchouly pint4 ,extract of verbena #a pint4 ,essence of vetiver #a pint4 ,tincture of civet #c fl4 oz4 ,tincture of musk4 fl4 oz4 ,,eau ,,japonaise4 ,tincture of cedar wood #a qt4 ,essence of patchouly #a qt4 ,extract of santal #a qt4 ,extract of verbena #a qt4 ,essence of vetiver #a pint4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,,jockey ,,club4 ,england first introduced a perfume under this name1 which soon became popular and was largely imitated4 ,jockey ,club perfume is among the finest known to the trade2 the delicacy of its odor rests largely on the extracts of cassie and tuberose which are employed in their strongest form--an alcoholic extract of a pomade well charged with the odors of the plants4 ,as in the case of ,cologne water1 there are a number of widely diverging formulas for its preparation1 from which we select a few which furnish excellent perfumes4 ,,jockey ,,club1 ,a 7,,english ,,formula74 ,extract of cassie #a pint4 ,tincture of ambergris pint4 ,extract of rose #a pints4 ,extract of tuberose pint4 ,tincture of orris root #c pints4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a pints4 ,oil of bergamot oz4 ,,jockey ,,club1 ,b 7,,french ,,formula74 ,extract of cassie #a pints4 ,extract of jasmine #b pints4 ,extract of rose #c pints4 ,extract of tuberose #c pints4 ,tincture of civet pint4 ,,jockey ,,club1 ,c 7,,german ,,formula74 ,extract of cassie #a qt4 ,tincture of ambergris #ac fl4 oz4 ,extract of jasmine #a qt4 ,extract of rose #a pint4 ,extract of tuberose #a qt4 ,extract of violet #a pint4 ,tincture of civet #bj fl4 oz4 ,oil of bergamot oz4 ,oil of citronella oz4 ,oil of neroli oz4 ,,jonquille 7,,extrait ,,de ,,jonquille74 ,extract of jasmine #b qts4 ,extract of orange flower #a qt4 ,extract of tuberose #b qts4 ,tincture of vanilla pint4 ,,kiss ,,me ,,quick4 ,extract of cassie #a qt4 ,extract of ambergris pint4 ,extract of narcissus 7,jonquille7 #b qts4 ,tincture of tonka #a qt4 ,tincture of orris root #b qts4 ,tincture of civet pint4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,oil of citronella #ge grains4 ,oil of lemon grass #de grains4 ,this perfume1 which was once very popular1 owes its peculiar refreshing odor to the tincture of tonka beans2 by increasing this ingredient the specific odor can be made more pronounced4 ,,bouquet ,,cosmopolite4 ,extract of jasmine #a pint4 ,essence of lavender pint4 ,tincture of musk pint4 ,essence of patachouly pint4 ,extract of santal pint4 ,extract of tuberose #a pint4 ,tincture of vanilla pint4 ,extract of violet #a qt4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a pint4 ,oil of citronella #ge grains4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,,cologne ,,water 7,,eau ,,de ,,cologne74 ,this famous perfume1 which was first made in ,cologne on the ,rhine1 its formula being kept secret1 can be produced anywhere of the same quality as the original4 ,in order to obtain a first-class product1 it is necessary1 besides using the finest oils--a matter of course for all fine perfumes--to observe another special point4 ,every ,cologne water contains oils of the citron group which develop their best odors only in true spirit of wine4 ,unless an alcohol distilled from wine is used1 it will be impossible to make a ,cologne water of really first quality4 ,while it is possible to make a good cologne with grain or potato spirit1 especially if highly rectified1 comparison with one prepared from pure spirit of wine will at once show a marked difference4 ,the small amount of nanthic ether1 hardly demonstrable by chemical tests but present in every spirit of wine1 exerts a decided influence on the flavor4 ,cologne water of the most superior and incomparable quality is made by dissolving the essential oils1 excepting the oils of rosemary and neroli1 in the alcohol and distilling it1 the other oils being added to the distillate4 ,a very large number of formulas for the preparation of ,cologne water have been published of which we subjoin a few4 ,we have purposely omitted those containing many essential oils1 as experience has taught us that they are of little value2 for it is not the number of oils that determines the fineness of a perfume1 but the manner in which certain odors are combined4 ,a4 ,,finest ,,cologne ,,water 7,,eau ,,de ,,cologne ,,sup,,rieure74 ,oil of bergamot #b oz4 ,oil of lemon 7hand-pressed7 #f oz4 ,oil of neroli ptale #c oz4 ,oil of neroli bigarade #a oz4 ,oil of rosemary #b oz4 ,alcohol #cj qts4 ,b4 ,,cologne ,,water 7,,second ,,quality74 ,oil of bergamot #d oz4 ,oil of lemon #d oz4 ,oil of neroli ptale oz4 ,oil of orange peel #d oz4 ,oil of petit grain #b oz4 ,oil of rosemary #b oz4 ,alcohol #cj qts4 ,c4 ,,cologne ,,water 7,,ordinary74 ,oil of bergamot #g oz4 ,oil of lemon #c oz4 ,oil of lavender #c oz4 ,alcohol #cj qts4 ,d4 ,,cologne ,,water4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of lemon #c oz4 ,oil of lavender #aej grains4 ,oil of neroli oz4 ,oil of rosemary #ge grains4 ,alcohol #cj qts4 ,e4 ,,cologne ,,water4 ,oil of bergamot #b oz4 ,oil of lemon #a oz4 ,oil of lavender oz4 ,oil of melissa oz4 ,oil of neroli oz4 ,alcohol #cj qts4 ,f4 ,,cologne ,,water4 ,oil of bergamot #c oz4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,oil of lavender oz4 ,oil of melissa oz4 ,oil of neroli oz4 ,alcohol #cj qts4 ,g4 ,,cologne ,,water4 ,oil of bergamot #a lb4 ,oil of lemon #a lb4 ,oil of lavender #f oz4 ,oil of neroli oz4 ,oil of petit grain #a oz4 ,oil of orange peel #a lb4 ,oil of rosemary #aej grains4 ,alcohol #cj qts4 ,h4 ,,cologne ,,water4 ,oil of bergamot #b oz4 ,oil of cajuput oz4 ,oil of lemon #d oz4 ,oil of lavender #f oz4 ,oil of neroli #boz4 ,oil of orange peel #d oz4 ,oil of petit grain oz4 ,orange-flower water #a qt4 ,alcohol #cj qts4 ,the numerous formulas show that oils of lemon1 bergamot1 and orange form normal constituents of every ,cologne water2 the finer grades always contain1 in addition1 oils of rosemary and neroli4 ,it is advisable to dissolve the aromatics in very strong alcohol and then to effect the dilution required with orange-flower or rose water4 ,this dilution is also to be employed when a cheaper product is desired4 ,,lavender ,,perfumes4 ,english 7,mitcham7 oil of lavender should always be used when it is desired to produce perfumes of first quality4 ,,eau ,,de ,,lavande ,,ambr,e4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,oil of geranium #ge grains4 ,oil of lavender #e oz4 ,musk #h grains4 ,peru balsam #b oz4 ,storax #d oz4 ,civet #ae grains4 ,alcohol #aj qts4 ,the essential oils are dissolved in the alcohol1 the other substances are macerated in the solution for one month1 and the liquid decanted4 ,,eau ,,de ,,lavande ,,double4 ,tincture of musk #c fl4 oz4 ,tincture of vanilla #c fl4 oz4 ,tincture of civet #c fl4 oz4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,oil of lavender #c oz4 ,rose water 7triple7 #a qt4 ,alcohol #aj qts4 ,,eau ,,de ,,lavande ,a ,,mille ,,fleurs4 ,tincture of ambergris pint4 ,essence of lavender #b qts4 ,eau de mille fleurs 7see below1 page #ahf7 #b qts4 ,,leap-,,year ,,bouquet4 ,extract of jasmine #c pints4 ,essence of patchouly #a pints4 ,essence of santal #a pints4 ,extract of tuberose #a qt4 ,extract of verbena #f fl4 oz4 ,essence of vetiver #a pints4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a pints4 ,,eau ,,de ,,leipsic4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,oil of neroli oz4 ,oil of orange peel #aej grains4 ,oil of bergamot #b oz4 ,oil of rosemary #ge grains4 ,orange-flower water #a qt4 ,alcohol #i pints4 ,,wallflower 7,,extrait ,,de ,,girofl74 ,extract of cassie #a pint4 ,extract of orange flower #a qt4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,tincture of vanilla #a pint4 ,tincture of orris root #a pint4 ,oil of bitter almond #h grains4 ,,lily 7,,extrait ,,de ,,lys74 ,extract of cassie #c pints4 ,extract of jasmine #ac fl4 oz4 ,extract of orange flower #bg fl4 oz4 ,extract of rose #a pint4 ,extract of tuberose #c qts4 ,tincture of vanilla #dj fl4 oz4 ,oil of bitter almond #cj grains4 ,,eau ,,de ,,lisbonne4 ,oil of lemon #b oz4 ,oil of orange peel #d oz4 ,oil of rose oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,magnolia 7,,extrait ,,de ,,magnolia74 ,extract of orange flower #b qts4 ,extract of rose #d qts4 ,extract of tuberose #a qt4 ,extract of violet #a qt4 ,oil of bitter almond #dj grains4 ,oil of lemon #ae grains4 ,,lily ,,of ,,the ,,valley4 ,oil of bitter almond #aej grains4 ,extract of jasmine #g oz4 ,extract of neroli #g oz4 ,extract of cassie #ad oz4 ,extract of tuberose #bh oz4 ,alcohol #bh oz4 ,,lily ,,of ,,the ,,valley ,,extract4 ,extract of jasmine #c oz4 ,extract of ylang-ylang 7see below1 p4 #aih7 oz4 ,cardamom seed1 crushed #ge grains4 ,oil of orris #aj drops4 ,macerate for a week1 and filter4 ,the amount of cardamom seed is to be weighed exactly2 should its odor still be too pronounced1 extract of jasmine should be gradually added until the right aroma is obtained4 ,,bouquet ,a ,,la ,,mar,,chale4 ,tincture of ambergris pint4 ,tincture of musk pint4 ,extract of neroli #a pint4 ,extract of orange flower #a qt4 ,tincture of tonka #a pint4 ,tincture of vanilla #a pint4 ,tincture of orris root #a pint4 ,essence of vetiver #a pint4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,oil of clove #ge grains4 ,oil of santal #ge grains4 ,a ,,la ,,mode4 ,extract of cassie #a qt4 ,extract of jasmine #a qt4 ,extract of orange flower #a qt4 ,extract of tuberose #a qt4 ,tincture of civet #a pint4 ,oil of bitter almond #ge grains4 ,oil of nutmeg #fj grains4 ,a4 ,,eau ,,de ,,mille ,,fleurs4 ,extract of cassie #a pint4 ,essence of cedar #a pint4 ,extract of jasmine #a pint4 ,tincture of musk #f fl4 oz4 ,extract of neroli #a pint4 ,extract of patchouly #a pint4 ,tincture of vanilla #a pint4 ,extract of violet #a pint4 ,essence of vetiver #a pint4 ,tincture of civet #f fl4 oz4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,oil of geranium oz4 ,oil of lavender oz4 ,oil of orange peel oz4 ,b4 ,,eau ,,de ,,mille ,,fleurs4 ,extract of cassie #a pint4 ,tincture of ambergris pint4 ,essence of cedar pint4 ,extract of jasmine #a pint4 ,tincture of musk pint4 ,extract of orange flower #a pint4 ,extract of rose #a pint4 ,extract of tuberose #a pint4 ,tincture of vanilla pint4 ,extract of violet #a pint4 ,essence of rose 7simple7 #a qt4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of bitter almond #bd grains4 ,oil of clove #bd grains4 ,oil of neroli #bd grains4 ,c4 ,,eau ,,de ,,mille ,,fleurs ,a ,,palmarose4 ,extract of cassie #f fl4 oz4 ,essence of cedar #c fl4 oz4 ,tincture of musk #c fl4 oz4 ,extract of violet #f fl4 oz4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of cedar #a oz4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,oil of lavender oz4 ,oil of clove oz4 ,oil of palmarosa oz4 ,alcohol #i pints4 ,,fleurs ,,de ,,montpellier4 ,tincture of ambergris #aj fl4 oz4 ,tincture of musk #aj fl4 oz4 ,extract of rose #c pints4 ,extract of tuberose #c pints4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #c pints4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of clove oz4 ,,fleurs ,,des ,,champs4 ,extract of cassie #c oz4 ,extract of jasmine #c oz4 ,tincture of musk #c oz4 ,tincture of tonka #c pints4 ,tincture of orris root #g oz4 ,oil of geranium #a oz4 ,oil of neroli #a oz4 ,oil of rose oz4 ,alcohol #c qts4 ,,huile ,,de ,,mille ,,fleurs4 7,for perfuming hair oils and pomades47 ,oil of cinnamon #aj drops4 ,oil of neroli #bj drops4 ,oil of rose #bj drops4 ,oil of clove -- ,oil of orange peel #ae grains4 ,oil of calamus #bj drops4 ,oil of geranium #aej grains4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,oil of bergamot #b oz4 ,oil of verbena #ge grains4 ,,musk 7,,extrait ,,de ,,musc74 ,tincture of ambergris #c pints4 ,tincture of musk #c qts4 ,extract of rose #a pints4 ,,mousseline4 ,extract of cassie #a qt4 ,extract of jasmine #a qt4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,extract of tuberose #a qt4 ,bouquet la marchale #b qts4 ,oil of santal oz4 ,,myrtle 7,,extrait ,,de ,,myrthe74 ,extract of jasmine pint4 ,extract of orange flower #a qt4 ,extract of rose #b qts4 ,extract of tuberose #a qt4 ,tincture of vanilla #a qt4 ,,narcissus 7,,extrait ,,de ,,narcisse74 ,extract of jonquille #b qts4 ,extract of tuberose #c qts4 ,tincture of storax pint4 ,tincture of tolu pint4 ,,navy',s ,,nosegay4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,extract of orange flower #a qt4 ,essence of patchouly #c fl4 oz4 ,extract of verbena #f fl4 oz4 ,essence of vetiver #f fl4 oz4 ,oil of bitter almond #aej grains4 ,oil of citronella oz4 ,oil of nutmeg #ge grains4 ,,new-,,mown ,,hay4 ,tonka beans1 in pieces #ge grains4 ,orris root #aej grains4 ,vanillin #h grains4 ,oil of bergamot #cj drops4 ,oil of neroli #b drops4 ,oil of rose #b drops4 ,oil of lavender #b drops4 ,oil of clove #a drop4 ,patchouly herb #c grains ,benzoic acid #h grains4 ,nettle herb #cj grains4 ,alcohol #g oz4 ,digest for two weeks1 and filter4 ,,pink 7,,extrait ,d',,illet74 ,extract of cassie #b pints4 ,extract of orange flower #b pints4 ,extract of rose #e pints4 ,tincture of vanilla #bj fl4 oz4 ,oil of clove #ge grains4 ,,essence ,,of ,,sweet ,,pea4 ,extract of tuberose #a qt4 ,extract of orange flower #a qt4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,tincture of vanilla #e oz4 ,,polyanthus4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,extract of jasmine #a pint4 ,extract of violet pint4 ,tincture of musk #b fl4 drachms4 ,oil of neroli oz4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,alcohol #b qts4 ,,eau ,,du ,,portugal4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of lemon #b oz4 ,oil of orange peel lb4 ,oil of rose oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,queen ,,victoria',s ,,perfume4 ,extract of cassie #aj fl4 oz4 ,extract of rose #e pints4 ,extract of orange flower #bj fl4 oz4 ,extract of tuberose #b pints4 ,extract of violet #e pints4 ,tincture of civet #c fl4 oz4 ,oil of bergamot oz4 ,oil of citron #aej grains4 ,,patchouly 7,,extrait ,,de ,,patchouli74 ,oil of patchouly #a oz4 ,oil of rose #aej grains4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,essence ,,of ,,reseda4 7,artificial1 almost indistinguishable from the genuine47 ,tonka beans1 in pieces #cj grains4 ,storax1 liquid #ae grains4 ,orris root #a oz4 ,oil of neroli #aj drops4 ,oil of rose #aj drops4 ,oil of bitter almond #b drops4 ,oil of bergamot #bj drops4 ,ambergris #ae grains4 ,musk #h grains4 ,nettle herb #cj grains4 ,alcohol lb4 ,macerate for from one to two weeks1 and filter4 ,,rondeletia ,,odoratissima4 ,tincture of ambergris #d oz4 ,tincture of musk #d oz4 ,tincture of vanilla #d oz4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of lavender #b oz4 ,oil of clove #a oz4 ,oil of rose #ge grains4 ,alcohol #d qts4 ,the odor of ,rondeletia has not thus far been isolated1 at least in ,europe 7the plant is indigenous to the ,antilles74 ,the oils of lavender and clove together constitute the odor known in perfumery as ,rondeletia4 ,by increasing the quantity of the two oils1 the strength of the perfume may be heightened4 ,,royal ,,nosegay4 ,tincture of ambergris #b oz4 ,extract of jasmine #a qt4 ,tincture of musk #c fl4 oz4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,tincture of vanilla pint4 ,extract of violet #a qt4 ,essence of vetiver pint4 ,oil of bergamot #ge grains4 ,oil of clove #a oz4 ,,rose ,,odors4 ,the art of perfumery has endeavored to fix this most magnificent of all odors1 and we must confess that in this case it has succeeded in solving the problem in a manner unequalled in any other perfume4 ,we are able to imitate not only the pure rose odor1 but also those of its several varieties such as the tea rose1 moss rose1 etc41 both as to character and intensity4 ,fine rose odors can be produced in their full fragrance only from pomade extracts2 the various rose oils furnish inferior products4 ,,rosa ,,centifolia1 ,a 7,,finest ,,quality74 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,rose pomade #h lbs4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,rose1 ,b 7,,less ,,fine74 ,oil of rose #c oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,china ,,rose 7,,roses ,,jaunes74 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #b qts4 ,tincture of tonka pint4 ,extract of tuberose #b qts4 ,extract of verbena pint4 ,,dog ,,rose 7,,eglantine74 ,extract of cassie #b pints4 ,extract of orange flower #b pints4 ,extract of rose #e pints4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #b pints4 ,oil of lemon-grass oz4 ,oil of neroli oz4 ,,moss ,,rose 7,,rose ,,mousseuse74 ,extract of rose #b qts4 ,extract of orange flower #a qt4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,tincture of ambergris #a pint4 ,tincture of musk lb4 ,,tea ,,rose 7,,rose ,,th,a74 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,extract of geranium #a qt4 ,extract of orange flower pint4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,extract of santal pint4 ,tincture of orris root pint4 ,,white ,,rose 7,,roses ,,blanches74 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,extract of jasmine #a pint4 ,extract of violet #a qt4 ,essence of patchouly pint4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,,white ,,rose4 ,oil of rose #ae drops4 ,patchouly herb #c grains4 ,musk #c grains4 ,cologne spirit #g oz4 ,,twin ,,rose 7,,roses ,,jumelles74 ,extract of rose #e qts4 ,oil of rose #a oz4 ,,spring ,,nosegay4 ,extract of cassie #a qt4 ,tincture of ambergris #ac fl4 oz4 ,essence of geranium #a qt4 ,extract of jasmine #a qt4 ,extract of orange flower #b qts4 ,tincture of musk #aj fl4 oz4 ,,suave4 ,extract of cassie #a qt4 ,tincture of ambergris pint4 ,extract of jasmine #a qt4 ,tincture of musk pint4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,extract of tuberose #a qt4 ,tincture of vanilla pint4 ,oil of bergamot oz4 ,oil of clove #cj grains4 ,oil of mace #cj grains4 ,,heliotrope ,,bouquet 7,,fleurs ,,solsticiales74 ,extract of cassie #ac fl4 oz4 ,tincture of ambergris #e fl4 oz4 ,extract of jasmine #b pints4 ,tincture of musk #e fl4 oz4 ,extract of rose #e pints4 ,extract of violet #b pints4 ,extract of verbena #ac fl4 oz4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #b pints4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of lemon #a oz4 ,,bouquet ,,de ,,stamboul4 ,extract of rose #b pints4 ,extract of cassie #a qt4 ,extract of jasmine #a qt4 ,extract of tuberose #a pint4 ,tincture of civet pint4 ,oil of bitter almond #aej grains4 ,,syringa4 ,extract of reseda #a oz4 ,extract of violet #c oz4 ,patchouly herb #e grains4 ,benzoic acid #h grains4 ,oil of orris #aj drops4 ,alcohol #a oz4 ,,tulipe ,,odorif,,rante4 ,extract of cassie #f fl4 oz4 ,extract of jasmine #a qt4 ,extract of rose #a pint4 ,extract of tuberose #a qt4 ,tincture of orris root #a qt4 ,oil of bitter almond #ae grains4 ,oil of neroli #cj grains4 ,,hungarian ,,water 7,,eau ,,hongroise74 ,extract of orange flower #a pint4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a pint4 ,oil of lemon #a oz4 ,oil of melissa #a oz4 ,oil of peppermint #cj grains4 ,oil of rosemary #b oz4 ,alcohol 7from wine7 #e qts4 ,,bouquet ,,de ,,virginie4 ,essence of geranium #a pint4 ,tincture of musk #a qt4 ,extract of orange flower #a qt4 ,extract of santal #a pint4 ,tincture of tonka #a qt4 ,tincture of vanilla #a qt4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a pint4 ,,violet 7,,violettes74 ,violet pomade #f to #g lb4 ,extract of cassie #f fl4 oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,this is the finest among the true violet perfumes4 ,less fine1 though still of prime quality1 is the following3 ,extract of cassie #b qts4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,extract of tuberose #a qt4 ,tincture of orris root #a qt4 ,oil of bitter almond #ae grains4 ,,verbena ,a 7,,extrait ,,de ,,verveine74 ,oil of lemon grass oz4 ,oil of lemon #ad oz4 ,oil of orange peel #c oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,a cheap and pleasant perfume3 the following is far superior4 ,,verbena ,b4 ,oil of lemon #aj oz4 ,oil of lemon grass #f oz4 ,oil of orange peel #e oz4 ,extract of orange flower #b lb4 ,extract of rose #c lb4 ,extract of tuberose #b lb4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,this 8,extract of ,verbena ,b0 is a modification of that given previously1 on page #afd4 ,,extrait ,,de ,,verveine ,c4 ,extract of orange flower #cj fl4 oz4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,extract of tuberose #cj fl4 oz4 ,oil of lemon #a oz4 ,oil of lemon grass oz4 ,oil of orange peel lb4 ,alcohol #d pints4 ,,violettes ,,des ,,montagnes4 ,extract of cassie #ac fl4 oz4 ,extract of jasmine #ac fl4 oz4 ,extract of rose #ac fl4 oz4 ,extract of violet #b qts4 ,tincture of orris root #ac fl4 oz4 ,oil of bitter almond #cj grains4 ,,volcameria4 ,extract of jasmine #a pint4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,extract of tuberose #b qts4 ,extract of violet #b qts4 ,tincture of musk pint4 ,,forest ,,breeze 7,,pine-,,needle ,,odor47 ,oil of turpentine #ad oz4 ,oil of lavender #a oz4 ,oil of lemon grass oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,the oil of turpentine must be clear like water1 and most carefully rectified4 ,if it can be obtained of good quality1 the oil distilled from the leaves or needles of ,pinus sylvestris1 commonly known as pine-needle oil or fir-wool oil1 is to be preferred for this purpose4 ,still better is the oil obtained from ,pinus ,pumilio4 ,,west ,,end4 ,extract of cassie #a qt4 ,tincture of ambergris pint4 ,extract of jasmine #a qt4 ,tincture of musk pint4 ,extract of tuberose #a qt4 ,extract of violet #a qt4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #c pints4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of lemon #ge grains4 ,,wintergreen4 ,extract of cassie #a qt4 ,tincture of ambergris #a pint4 ,extract of lavender #a pint4 ,extract of orange flower #a qt4 ,extract of rose #b qts4 ,tincture of vanilla #a pint4 ,essence of vetiver #a pint4 ,,flowers ,,of ,,the ,,isle ,,of ,,wight4 ,extract of rose #a qt4 ,extract of santal #b qts4 ,tincture of orris root #a qt4 ,essence of vetiver #a pint4 ,,yacht ,,club4 ,extract of cassie #f fl4 oz4 ,extract of jasmine #a qt4 ,extract of orange flower #b qts4 ,extract of santal #b qts4 ,tincture of vanilla #a pint4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,benzoic acid1 sublimed #a oz4 ,the characteristic odor of this perfume depends upon the volatile oil adhering to the sublimed benzoic acid2 for this reason no other benzoic acid should be used than that obtained by sublimation4 ,,ylang-,,ylang4 ,cologne water #d qts4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,tincture of vanilla #c oz4 ,tincture of tolu #ad oz4 ,oil of neroli #ge grains4 ,oil of ylang-ylang oz4 ,,appendix4 ,the great majority of the above-described perfumes are made with extracts prepared from pomades2 hence their cost of production is considerable and the selling-price high4 ,for the requirements of the middle classes1 quite fragrant perfumes are manufactured by dissolving the cheaper essential oils in ordinary alcohol1 and various new odors can be obtained by mixing several of them4 ,the extracts made with cheap oils are well suited to this purpose4 ,the oils most frequently used for such articles are those of bergamot1 lemon1 orange peel1 lavender flowers 7,french71 lemon grass1 nutmeg1 clove1 and santal4 ,the alcohol must be free from fusel oil and have a strength of at least #gj ,tralles4 ,oils with not very intense odor are generally used in the proportion of about #b to #b ounces to the quart of alcohol2 half that quantity will suffice for strong-scented oils such as those of lemon-grass1 clove1 and nutmeg4 ,from these simple solutions an experienced manufacturer can produce very nice perfumes by mixing them in due proportions2 they are comparatively cheap1 and sometimes they yield relatively more profit than the finest articles1 whose contents and containers generally represent a considerable outlay on the part of the manufacturer4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,ammoniacal ,,and ,,acid ,,perfumes4 ,a4 ,,ammoniacal ,,perfumes4 ,ammonia 7ammonia water7 has a disagreeable odor and exerts a very caustic effect on the lachrymal glands4 ,despite these properties1 ammonia1 in a highly dilute condition and mixed with other aromatics1 finds manifold application in perfumery and serves particularly for the manufacture of the so-called smelling salts1 or inexhaustible salts1 used for filling smelling bottles4 ,the liquid or caustic ammonia1 however1 is not so suitable for the purposes of the perfumer as the carbonate of ammonia1 which when pure forms colorless crystals usually covered with a white dust 7consisting of bicarbonate of ammonia72 these1 undergoing gradual decomposition1 give off the odor of ammonia and hence are more lasting in smelling bottles than the pure liquid ammonia4 ,the main essential for both of these substances is purity4 ,caustic ammonia as well as carbonate of ammonia are now obtained on a large scale from 8gas liquor10 but the crude products always retain some of the penetrating odor of coal tar which renders them valueless for the purposes of the perfumer4 ,we must1 therefore1 make it a rule to use nothing but perfectly pure materials which1 moreover1 are easily to be had in the market4 ,,inexhaustible ,,salt 7,,sel ,,in,,puisable74 ,oil of bergamot #bd grains4 ,oil of lavender #de grains4 ,oil of mace #bd grains4 ,oil of clove #bd grains4 ,oil of rosemary #de grains4 ,water of ammonia #a qt4 ,the aromatics are placed in a bottle1 the ammonia is added1 and the bottle vigorously shaken2 the solution is soon effected1 and the turbid liquid can be at once filled into bottles4 ,according to the material from which the containers are made1 different methods must be adopted4 ,it is necessary to give the liquid such form as to prevent its flowing out when the vessel is inverted2 this is important1 as the bottles are often carried in dress pockets and the ammonia destroys most colors4 ,as a rule the vessels are filled with indifferent porous substances which are moistened with the perfume4 ,if the container is made of box wood1 ivory1 porcelain1 or some other opaque material1 it is filled with fibres of asbestos or with very small pieces of sponge1 and as much perfume is poured in as the substance can take up2 the vessels are then inverted into a porcelain plate and allowed to drain1 and are finally closed with a loose plug of cotton4 ,if the container is transparent1 it is better to use1 instead of the asbestos or sponge which do not look neat1 either small pieces of white pumice stone1 powdered glass1 small white glass beads1 or crystals of sulphate of potassium which is insoluble in the perfume4 ,,white ,,smelling ,,salt 7,,sel ,,blanc ,,parfum74 ,while the first-named ammoniacal preparation is called a salt1 it is really nothing but perfumed caustic ammonia2 but white smelling salt is what its name indicates and can be perfumed as desired by the consumer2 but as only certain scents harmonize with ammonia1 not every odor can be employed2 the most appropriate are oils whose odor resembles that of rose1 and the oils of nutmeg and cinnamon4 ,mix in a large porcelain jar-- ,carbonate of ammonia #b lb4 ,caustic ammonia #a lb4 ,cover the jar and leave it at rest4 ,after some days the mixture will have changed into a firm mass of monocarbonate of ammonia which is rubbed to a coarse powder1 perfumed1 and filled into bottles4 ,the above quantities require3 ,oil of bergamot #ae grains4 ,oil of lavender #ae grains4 ,oil of nutmeg #h grains4 ,oil of clove #h grains4 ,oil of rose #h grains4 ,oil of cinnamon #ge grains4 ,the oils are poured into a mortar and rubbed up with about one-tenth of the salt2 of this perfumed salt enough is added to the several portions of the mass1 and triturated until the odor is equally distributed4 ,for cheaper smelling salts oils of geranium and cassia may be substituted for the oils of rose and cinnamon4 ,,preston ,,salt 7,,sel ,,volatil74 ,in this perfume ammonia is continually generated2 the salt is prepared by mixing chloride of ammonium or sal-ammoniac in fine powder with freshly slaked lime4 ,fine or cheap perfume is added1 according to the grade desired4 ,the mixture of sal-ammoniac and slaked lime continually develops small amounts of ammonia--it takes a long time until the decomposition is complete1 and for this reason a bottle filled with ,preston salt retains the odor of ammonia for several years4 ,,eau ,,de ,,luce4 ,this is the only ammoniacal perfume used in a liquid form4 ,it is made according to the following formula3 ,tincture of ambergris #aj oz4 ,tincture of benzoin lb4 ,oil of lavender #aej grains4 ,water of ammonia #a lb4 ,the tinctures are mixed with the ammonia by agitation and immediately filled into bottles2 the liquid should have a milky appearance4 ,at times #aej grains of white soap is added which aids in imparting to the liquid the desired milky appearance4 ,in fine eau de ,luce the odor of ambergris should predominate2 this can be easily effected by increasing the amount of tincture of ambergris4 ,b4 ,,acid ,,perfumes4 ,as there is a group of perfumes which is distinguished by their characteristic odor of ammonia and which we have therefore called ammoniacal1 so there is an important series of articles containing acetic acid which are used cosmetically as so-called toilet vinegars1 and in some washes4 ,ordinary vinegar1 i4e41 water containing four to six per cent of acetic acid1 has1 as is well known1 a not unpleasant refreshing odor and a pure acid taste4 ,pure acetic acid1 now made in large quantities and of excellent quality1 is known commercially as glacial acetic acid4 ,in commerce1 it is customary to designate any acetic acid containing #he or more per cent of the absolute acid1 as glacial acetic acid4 ,in chemical or pharmacopial nomenclature1 however1 the glacial acid is meant to be as near #ajj as possible4 ,in perfumery1 an #he acid is sufficiently strong4 ,it forms a colorless liquid with a narcotic odor and an intensely acid taste2 it congeals into glassy crystals at a temperature of #h4e ,c4 7#dg ,f474 ,the latter property is of importance as showing the purity of the acid4 ,concentrated acetic acid1 like alcohol1 dissolves aromatic substances1 with which it forms perfumes which differ from those made with alcohol mainly by their peculiar refreshing after-odor which is due to the acetic acid4 ,acetic acid can be saturated with various odors and thus furnish fine perfumes2 but for so-called toilet vinegars which are used as washes the acetic acid must be properly diluted1 since the concentrated acid has pronounced caustic properties1 reddens the skin1 and may even produce destructive effects on sensitive parts such as the lips4 ,,aromatic ,,vinegar 7,,vinaigre ,,aromatique74 ,glacial acetic acid #b lb4 ,camphor #d oz4 ,oil of lavender oz4 ,oil of mace #aej grains4 ,oil of rosemary #aej grains4 ,instead of the perfumes here given1 finer odors may be employed for the production of superior toilet vinegars2 thus we find vinaigre ambr1 au musc1 la violette1 au jasmin1 etc41 according to the perfume used4 ,as concentrated acetic acid dissolves most aromatic substances the same as alcohol1 all alcoholic perfumes may have their counterparts in acetic acid2 but the aromatics should never be added in so large amount as to mask the characteristic odor of the acetic acid4 ,a very pleasant vinegar may be produced by combining an alcoholic with an acid perfume1 as in the following3 ,,spiced ,,vinegar 7,,vinaigre ,,aux ,,pices74 #a4 ,macerate3 ,leaves of geranium1 lavender1 peppermint1 rosemary1 and sage1 of each #a oz4 ,in alcohol of #hj #a lb4 #b4 ,macerate3 ,angelica root1 calamus root1 camphor1 mace1 nutmeg1 cloves1 of each oz4 ,in glacial acetic acid #b lb4 for two weeks1 mix the liquids1 and filter them into a bottle which should not be completely filled4 ,the longer this mixture is allowed to season in the bottle1 the finer will be the aroma2 for in the course of time the alcohol and acetic acid react on each other and form acetic ether1 which likewise possesses a pleasant aromatic odor4 ,certain aromatic vinegars1 like ammoniacal perfumes1 are filled into smelling bottles containing the same porous substances for their absorption1 namely1 sponge1 pumice stone1 crystals of potassium sulphate1 etc4 ,,formulas ,,for ,,toilet ,,vinegars4 ,,vinaigre ,a ,,la ,,rose4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #aj oz4 ,white-wine vinegar #a qt4 ,this should be colored a pale rose tint with one of the dye-stuffs to be enumerated hereafter4 ,the use of true wine vinegar is to be recommended for this and all the following toilet vinegars1 as the nanthic ether it contains has a favorable effect on the fineness of the odor4 ,,vinaigre ,,aux ,,fleurs ,d',,oranges4 ,extract of orange flower #g oz4 ,white-wine vinegar #a qt4 ,this is usually left colorless4 ,,vinaigre ,,aux ,,violettes4 ,extract of cassie #h oz4 ,extract of orange flower #c oz4 ,tincture of orris root #e oz4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #e oz4 ,white-wine vinegar #a qt4 ,,vinaigre ,,de ,,quatre ,,voleurs4 ,leaves of lavender1 peppermint1 rue1 rosemary1 and cinnamon1 of each #c oz4 ,calamus1 mace1 nutmeg1 of each #aej grains4 ,camphor oz4 ,macerated in alcohol #g oz4 ,and acetic acid #d lb4 ,,preventive ,,vinegar 7,,vinaigre ,,hygi,,nique74 ,benzoin #b oz4 ,lavender oz4 ,cloves #aej grains4 ,marjoram oz4 ,cinnamon #aej grains4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,white-wine vinegar #b qts4 ,macerate the solids with the alcohol and vinegar4 ,,vinaigre ,,de ,,cologne4 ,cologne water #a qt4 ,glacial acetic acid #a oz4 ,as this vinegar is made by mixing an alcoholic perfume with acetic acid1 so all other alcoholic perfumes may be employed for a like purpose2 but the quantities must be determined by experiment1 for the various aromatics differ in the intensity of their odor4 ,,vinaigre ,,ther4 ,glacial acetic acid #ad oz4 ,acetic ether #a oz4 ,nitrous ether oz4 ,water #e qts4 ,the water should be added after the ethers have been dissolved in the glacial acetic acid4 ,,vinaigre ,,de ,,lavande4 ,lavender water #d qts4 ,rose water #a pint4 ,glacial acetic acid lb4 ,to be stained a bluish color with indigo-carmine4 ,,orange-,,flower ,,vinegar4 ,orange-flower water #d qts4 ,glacial acetic acid #g oz4 ,,mallard',s ,,toilet ,,vinegar4 ,tincture of benzoin #a oz4 ,tincture of tolu #a oz4 ,oil of bergamot #aej grains4 ,oil of lemon #aej grains4 ,oil of neroli #cj grains4 ,oil of orange peel oz4 ,oil of lavender #ae grains4 ,oil of rosemary #ae grains4 ,tincture of musk #ae grains4 ,concentrated acetic acid #ba oz4 ,alcohol #d lb4 ,,toilet ,,vinegar 7,,french ,,formula74 ,oil of bergamot #cj grains4 ,oil of lemon #cj grains4 ,oil of rose #h drops4 ,oil of neroli #e drops4 ,benzoin #ge grains4 ,vanillin #ae grains4 ,concentrated acetic acid oz4 ,alcohol lb4 ,macerate for two weeks1 and filter4 ,,vinaigre ,,polyanthe4 ,glacial acetic acid #g oz4 ,tincture of benzoin #a oz4 ,tincture of tolu #a oz4 ,oil of neroli #aej grains4 ,oil of geranium #aej grains4 ,water #b qts4 ,to be stained with tincture of krameria 7rhatany74 ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,dry-,,perfumes4 ,as a matter of course1 dry perfumes are of greater antiquity than fluid2 aromatic substances require merely to be dried in order to retain their fragrance permanently4 ,the oldest civilized people known in history--,egyptians1 ,assyrians1 ,persians1 ,babylonians1 and the ,jews1 as numerous passages in the ,bible prove--used dried portions of plants1 leaves1 flowers1 and resins as perfumes and incense4 ,to this day there is kept up quite a trade in ,valeriana celtica1 a strong-scented ,alpine plant1 and in powdered amber1 with the ,orient1 where they are used for scent bags and incense respectively4 ,the ,catholic ,church retains to the present time the ,jewish rite of burning incense1 and in our museums will be found urns1 taken from ,egyptian graves1 from which pleasant odors escape even now after nearly four thousand years1 owing to the aromatic resins with which they are filled4 ,it is said1 too1 that the delightful volatile odors of our handkerchief perfumes were first prepared by an ,italian named ,frangipanni conceiving the idea of treating a dry mixture of different aromatic plants with alcohol and thus imparting the odor they contained to the latter4 ,not all aromatics can be made into sachet powders2 it is well known that the delightful odor of violets changes into a positively disagreeable smell when the flowers are dried1 and the same remark applies to the blossoms of the lily of the valley1 mignonette1 lily1 and most of our fragrant plants4 ,on the other hand1 some portions of plants1 especially those in which the odorous principle is contained not only in the flower but in all parts of the plant1 as in the mints1 sage1 and most ,labiat1 remain fragrant for a long time after drying and hence can be employed for sachets4 ,besides the plants named1 lavender1 rose leaves1 the leaves of the lemon and orange tree1 ,acacia farnesiana1 patchouly herb1 and some other plants continue fragrant after drying4 ,any vegetable substance to be used for sachets must be completely dried so as to prevent mould4 ,the drying should be effected in a warm1 shady place1 sometimes in heated chambers2 direct sunlight and excessive heat injure the strength of the odor1 a portion of the aromatics becoming resinified and volatilized4 ,if artificial heat is employed1 a temperature between #dj and #de ,c4 7#ajd-aac ,f47 is most suitable4 ,the external form of this class of preparations varies of course with the public for which it is intended4 ,expensive sachets are sold in silk bags with different ornamentation2 those intended for the ,orient are generally put up as small silk cushions richly ornamented with gold and colors to suit ,oriental taste4 ,cheap sachets are sold in envelopes or in round boxes4 ,it is customary to have the ingredients ground or finely powdered1 for which purpose small hand-mills will generally suffice4 ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,formulas ,,for ,,dry ,,perfumes 7,,sachets74 ,,ceylon ,,sachet ,,powder4 ,mace #bc oz4 ,patchouly #bh oz4 ,vetiver root #ce oz4 ,oil of orange peel #a oz4 ,oil of peppermint #c oz4 ,,cyprian ,,sachet ,,powder4 ,cedar wood #b lb4 ,rhodium #b lb4 ,santal wood #b lb4 ,oil of rhodium oz4 ,the oil is mixed with the finely powdered or rasped woods and distributed in the mass by trituration4 ,,field ,,flower ,,sachet ,,powder4 ,calamus root #a lb4 ,caraway lb4 ,lavender #a lb4 ,marjoram lb4 ,musk #cj grains4 ,cloves #b oz4 ,peppermint lb4 ,rose leaves #a lb4 ,rosemary #c oz4 ,thyme lb4 ,,frangipanni ,,sachet ,,powder4 ,musk #a oz4 ,sage lb4 ,santal wood lb4 ,orris root #f lb4 ,vetiver lb4 ,civet oz4 ,oil of neroli #ge grains4 ,oil of santal #ge grains4 ,oil of rhodium #ge grains4 ,,heliotrope ,,sachet ,,powder4 ,musk oz4 ,rose leaves #b lb4 ,tonka beans #a lb4 ,vanilla lb4 ,orris root #d lb4 ,oil of bitter almond #cj grains4 ,,indian ,,sachet ,,powder4 ,santal wood #c oz4 ,orris root #ba oz4 ,cinnamon #aj oz4 ,oil of lavender #ge grains4 ,cloves #cj grains4 ,oil of rose #aej grains4 ,,lavender ,,sachet ,,powder4 ,benzoin #a lb4 ,lavender flowers #d lb4 ,oil of lavender #a oz4 ,oil of rose #ge grains4 ,,marshal ,,sachet ,,powder4 ,cassia lb4 ,musk #ge grains4 ,cloves lb4 ,rose leaves lb4 ,santal wood #a lb4 ,orris root #a lb4 ,,mille ,,fleurs ,,sachet ,,powder4 ,benzoin #a lb4 ,lavender #a lb4 ,musk #cj grains4 ,cloves #d oz4 ,allspice #b oz4 ,rose leaves #a lb4 ,santal wood #d oz4 ,tonka beans #d oz4 ,vanilla #d oz4 ,orris root #a lb4 ,civet #cj grains4 ,cinnamon oz4 ,,muslin ,,sachet ,,powder4 ,benzoin lb4 ,santal wood #a lb4 ,thyme #a lb4 ,orris root #a lb4 ,vetiver root #b lb4 ,oil of geranium #ge grains4 ,,olla ,,podrida4 ,this name is applied in ,spain to a dish prepared from various remnants of food4 ,the olla podrida of the perfumer is made from the remnants of the aromatic vegetable substances after their extraction with alcohol1 petroleum ether1 etc4 ,although vanilla1 cinnamon1 nutmeg1 etc41 be repeatedly extracted1 they still retain their characteristic odor1 though somewhat fainter1 and thus they can be used with advantage for sachet powders intended for filling bags1 cushions1 etc4 ,if mixed in corresponding proportions1 they can be made use of for all the sachets here enumerated4 ,no definite formula can be given for a peculiar dry perfume to be called ,olla podrida2 the olfactory organ is the best guide4 ,,patchouly ,,powder4 ,patchouly herb #b lb4 ,oil of patchouly #cj grains4 ,musk #ae grains4 ,the musk is rubbed up with gradually increased quantities of the patchouly herb and with the addition of the oil of patchouly2 the intimate mixture of the powder saturated with musk and oil of patchouly and the rest of the powder is effected by prolonged stirring of the two powders in a large vessel4 ,the same process is followed with all other dry powders in which a small amount of a solid with intense odor or of an essential oil is to be mixed with a large quantity of powder4 ,,persian ,,sachet ,,powder4 ,musk #cj grains4 ,rose leaves #a lb4 ,tonka beans #c oz4 ,orris root #b lb4 ,oil of nutmeg #ge grains4 ,oil of clove #ge grains4 ,oil of rose #aej grains4 ,oil of cinnamon #ge grains4 ,,portugal ,,powder4 ,lemon peels #a lb4 ,orange peels #b lb4 ,orris root #a lb4 ,cinnamon #c oz4 ,oil of lemon grass #aej grains4 ,oil of neroli #aej grains4 ,oil of orange peel #b oz4 ,,potpourri4 ,many widely differing perfumes are sold in the market under this name2 a good formula for its preparation is the following3 ,lavender #a lb4 ,cloves #b oz4 ,allspice #b oz4 ,rose leaves #a lb4 ,reseda #a oz4 ,orris root lb4 ,vanilla #aej grains4 ,cinnamon #a oz4 ,sand1 or table salt1 etc4 #a lb4 ,the admixture of fine white sand1 table salt1 or powdered glass or marble1 etc41 is made merely for the purpose of increasing the weight4 ,,rose ,,sachet ,,powder1 ,a4 ,geranium herb #c oz4 ,rose leaves #b lb4 ,santal wood #a lb4 ,oil of rose oz4 ,,rose ,,sachet ,,powder1 ,b4 ,rose leaves #b lb4 ,santal wood #a lb4 ,oil of rose #a oz4 ,,santal ,,powder1 which is simply finely rasped santal wood1 is also sometimes sold as rose sachet powder when it has received an addition of some oil of geranium4 ,,violet ,,sachet ,,powder4 ,benzoin lb4 ,musk #cj grains4 ,orange flowers #a oz4 ,rose leaves #a lb4 ,orris root #b lb4 ,oil of bitter almond #ge grains4 ,oil of lemon grass #cj grains4 ,,violet ,,sachet ,,powder4 ,orris root1 powdered #a lb4 ,musk #h grains4 ,vanillin #cj grains4 ,oil of rose #be drops4 ,oil of petit grain #aej grains4 ,cologne water #c oz4 ,mix intimately in a porcelain mortar4 ,,verbena ,,sachet ,,powder4 ,lemon peels #a lb4 ,caraway lb4 ,orange peels #a lb4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of lemon #a oz4 ,oil of lemon grass #ge grains4 ,,vetiver ,,sachet ,,powder4 ,vetiver root #b lb4 ,musk #ae grains4 ,civet #bj grains4 ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,,the ,,perfumes ,,used ,,for ,,fumigation4 ,according to the use made of them1 perfumes for fumigation may be divided into two groups3 those which develop their fragrance on being burned1 and those which do so on being merely heated4 ,the former group includes pastils and ribbons1 the latter fumigating powders and waters4 ,,fumigating ,,pastils4 ,french--,pastilles fumigatoires2 ,german--,rucherkerzen4 ,pastils consist in the main of charcoal to which enough saltpetre is added to make the lighted mass glow continuously and leave a pure white ash4 ,to this mass are added various aromatic substances which are gradually volatilized by the heat and fill the surrounding air with their perfume4 ,it is important to observe that only ordinary saltpetre 7nitrate of potassium7 is to be used for this purpose1 and not the so-called ,chili saltpetre 7nitrate of sodium7 which becomes moist in the air4 ,for ordinary pastils finely rasped fragrant woods such as cedar or santal are frequently employed4 ,during the slow combustion1 however1 the wood gives off products of a pungent or disagreeable odor such as acetic acid and empyreumatic products1 which lessen the fragrance4 ,fine pastils are composed of resins and essential oils and are usually formed into cones two-fifths to four-fifths of an inch high1 by being pressed in metal moulds4 ,fumigating pastils are manufactured as follows4 ,each solid ingredient is finely powdered by itself1 and the necessary quantities are then put into a wide porcelain dish and intimately mixed with a flat spatula4 ,in order to confine the dust1 the dish is covered with a cloth during this operation4 ,the mixture being completed1 the essential oils are added1 together with enough mucilage of acacia to form a plastic mass to be kneaded with the pestle1 and which after drying will have a sufficiently firm consistence4 ,,pastilles ,,orientales4 ,charcoal #a lb4 ,saltpetre #c oz4 ,benzoin lb4 ,powdered amber #c oz4 ,tolu balsam #b oz4 ,the charcoal for this and all other pastils should be made from soft woods 7willow1 poplar1 etc474 ,the characteristic of these pastils is the amber they contain 7the offal from manufactories is used7 and which on ignition gives off a peculiar odor much prized in the ,orient1 rather than in ,europe or ,america4 ,,pastilles ,,du ,s,,rail4 ,charcoal #a lb4 ,saltpetre #c oz4 ,benzoin lb4 ,santal wood #e oz4 ,opium #a oz4 ,tolu balsam #b oz4 ,this formula is here given as usually quoted4 ,it may be stated1 however1 that the opium may be omitted entirely1 as it neither contributes to the fragrance1 nor produces1 by being burned in this manner1 any of the supposed exhilarating or intoxicating effects which it may produce when used in other forms or employed in other ways4 ,,baguettes ,,encensoires 7,,fumigating ,,pencils74 ,benzoin #ad oz4 ,charcoal #a oz4 ,peru balsam #a oz4 ,storax #b oz4 ,shellac #c oz4 ,olibanum #e oz4 ,civet #ge grains4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of orange peel #a oz4 ,oil of santal oz4 ,melt the benzoin1 charcoal1 shellac1 and olibanum in a bright iron pan at the lowest possible heat2 take the pan from the fire and add the other ingredients1 heat being again applied from time to time to keep the mass in a liquid state4 ,the plastic mass is rolled out on a marble slab into rods the thickness of a lead pencil4 ,such a pencil need be but lightly passed over a hot surface to volatilize the aromatics it contains4 ,,pastilles ,,odorif,,rantes4 ,charcoal #b lb4 ,saltpetre #c oz4 ,benzoin #a lb4 ,cloves #g oz4 ,tolu balsam #g oz4 ,vanilla #g oz4 ,vetiver root #g oz4 ,cinnamon #c oz4 ,oil of neroli #aej grains4 ,oil of santal oz4 ,this and the following formula give the finest mixtures for pastils4 ,,pastilles ,,enbaum,,es4 ,charcoal #b lb4 ,saltpetre #b oz4 ,benzoic acid1 sublimed #a lb4 ,musk #ae grains4 ,civet #ae grains4 ,oil of lemon grass #cj grains4 ,oil of lavender #ae grains4 ,oil of clove #ae grains4 ,oil of thyme #cj grains4 ,oil of cinnamon #cj grains4 ,,poudre ,d',,encens 7,,incense ,,powder74 ,benzoin lb4 ,cascarilla lb4 ,musk #ae grains4 ,santal wood #a lb4 ,saltpetre #c oz4 ,vetiver root #e oz4 ,olibanum #a lb4 ,cinnamon #e oz4 ,dissolve the saltpetre in water1 saturate the powders with the solution1 dry the mass1 and again reduce it to powder4 ,this powder1 strewn on a warm surface such as the top of a stove1 takes fire spontaneously and gradually disappears4 ,,fumigating ,,papers ,,and ,,wicks 7,,bruges ,,ribbons74 ,french--,papier fumigations4 ,ruban de ,bruges2 ,german--,rucherpapiere4 ,rucherbnder4 ,fumigating papers are strips impregnated with substances which become fragrant on being heated2 such a strip need merely be placed on a stove or held over a flame in order to perfume a whole room4 ,fumigating papers are divided into two groups3 those meant to be burned1 and those meant to be used repeatedly4 ,the former1 before being treated with aromatics1 are dipped into saltpetre solution2 the latter1 in order to render them incombustible1 are first dipped into a hot alum solution so that they are only charred by a strong heat1 but not entirely consumed4 ,a4 ,,inflammable ,,fumigating ,,paper4 ,papier ,fumigatoire ,inflammable4 ,the paper is dipped into a solution of #c to #e ounces of saltpetre in water2 after drying it is immersed in a strong tincture of benzoin or olibanum and again dried4 ,an excellent paper is made according to the following formula3 ,benzoin #e oz4 ,santal wood #c oz4 ,olibanum #c oz4 ,oil of lemon grass #aej grains4 ,essence of vetiver #a oz4 ,alcohol4 #a qt4 ,for use1 the paper is touched with a red-hot substance1 not a flame4 ,it begins to glow at once without bursting into flame1 giving off numerous sparks and a pleasant odor4 ,b4 ,,non-,,inflammable ,,fumigating ,,paper4 ,papier ,fumigatoire ,permanent4 ,this paper is prepared by dipping it in a hot solution of #c oz4 of alum in one quart of water2 after drying1 it is saturated with the following mixture3 ,benzoin #g oz4 ,tolu balsam #g oz4 ,tincture of tonka #g oz4 ,essence of vetiver #g oz4 ,alcohol #bj fl4 oz4 ,this paper1 when heated1 diffuses a very pleasant odor and can be used repeatedly4 ,it does not burn1 and strong heat only chars it4 ,some manufacturers make inferior fumigating papers by dipping the alum paper simply in melted benzoin or olibanum4 ,c4 ,,fumigating ,,ribbons are nothing but fine flat lamp wicks treated first with saltpetre solution and then with the preceding mixture4 ,the wick is rolled up and placed in a vessel provided with a lamp burner4 ,it is inserted in the burner like any other wick and when lighted burns down to the metal and goes out unless screwed up higher4 ,fumigating vessels provided with these wicks are very practical because1 if artistic in form1 they form quite an ornament to the room and can be instantly set in operation4 ,a ,french formula gives the following mixture for saturating the wicks3 ,benzoin #a lb4 ,musk oz4 ,myrrh #c oz4 ,tolu balsam #c oz4 ,tincture of orris root #a pint4 ,oil of rose #ae grains4 ,,fumigating ,,waters ,,and ,,vinegars 7,,eaux ,,encensoires1 ,,vinaigres ,,encensoires74 ,these fluids are nothing but strong solutions of various aromatics in alcohol1 a few drops of which suffice1 if evaporated on a warm plate1 to perfume a large room4 ,the following is a good formula for fumigating water4 ,benzoin #g oz4 ,cascarilla #c oz4 ,cardamoms #c oz4 ,mace #a oz4 ,musk #aej grains4 ,peru balsam #a oz4 ,storax #a oz4 ,tolu balsam #a oz4 ,olibanum #c oz4 ,orris root #ad oz4 ,civet #aej grains4 ,cinnamon #g oz4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of lemon #a oz4 ,oil of geranium oz4 ,oil of lavender oz4 ,oil of neroli #aej grains4 ,alcohol #b qts4 ,of course1 this liquid must be filtered after prolonged maceration4 ,by adding to it #a oz4 of glacial acetic acid we obtain the so-called fumigating vinegar which is very useful for expelling bad odors4 ,,fumigating ,,powders 7,,poudres ,,encensoires74 ,these powders which need only to be heated in order to diffuse one of the most pleasant odors1 are easily prepared by intimately mixing the ground solids with the oils by means of a spatula4 ,we add three renowned formulas for the manufacture of such powders4 ,a4 ,,poudre ,,imp,,riale4 ,benzoin #c oz4 ,cascarilla #a oz4 ,lavender #a oz4 ,rose leaves #a oz4 ,santal wood #a oz4 ,olibanum #c oz4 ,orris root #c oz4 ,cinnamon #a oz4 ,oil of lemon #ge grains4 ,oil of clove #cj grains4 ,oil of patchouly #ae grains4 ,b4 ,,poudre ,,de ,,la ,,reine4 ,benzoin #g oz4 ,cedar wood #a lb4 ,cinnamon #ad oz4 ,lavender #aj oz4 ,rose leaves #aj oz4 ,patchouly herb #c oz4 ,vetiver root #c oz4 ,civet #aej grains4 ,oil of bergamot oz4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,oil of neroli #aej grains4 ,oil of clove #aej grains4 ,c4 ,,poudre ,,royale4 ,cinnamon lb4 ,cloves lb4 ,orris root #ab oz4 ,storax #ab oz4 ,lavender #a lb4 ,oil of clove oz4 ,oil of lavender oz4 ,oil of bergamot oz4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,,appendix4 ,,some ,,specialties4 ,besides the preparations enumerated in the preceding pages1 we find in perfumery some products which are in favor on account of their fragrance and are suitable for scenting ladies' writing-desks1 sewing-baskets1 boxes1 and similar objects4 ,they find their most appropriate use in places where an aromatic odor is desired1 while there is no room for keeping the substances themselves4 ,these must therefore be put into a small compass1 and the aromatics chosen should be distinguished by great intensity and permanence of odor4 ,we subjoin a few formulas for the manufacture of such specialties1 and add the remark that besides the aromatics there given other substances may be used in their preparation2 but that the presence of benzoin1 musk1 or civet1 even in small amount1 is always necessary1 since these substances1 as above stated1 not only possess an intense and permanent odor1 but have the valuable property of imparting lasting qualities to more volatile odors4 ,it is a good plan1 too1 to keep on hand two kinds of these specialties--one containing musk1 the other none--for the reason that the musk odor is as disagreeable to some persons as it is pleasant to others4 ,,spanish ,,skin 7,,peau ,d',,espagne1 ,,spanisch ,,leder74 ,the article sold under this name resembles in some respects sachets or scent bags and is made as follows4 ,take a piece of wash-leather 7chamois71 trim it to a square shape1 and leave it for three or four days in the following mixture3 ,benzoin lb4 ,oil of bergamot oz4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,oil of lemon grass oz4 ,oil of lavender oz4 ,oil of nutmeg #aej grains4 ,oil of clove #aej grains4 ,oil of neroli #a oz4 ,oil of rose #a oz4 ,oil of santal #a oz4 ,tincture of tonka oz4 ,oil of cinnamon #aej grains4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,at the end of the time named remove the leather from the liquid1 let it drain1 spread it on a glass plate1 and when dry coat it on the rough side1 by means of a brush1 with a paste prepared in a mortar from the following ingredients3 ,benzoic acid1 sublimed #aej grains4 ,musk #ae grains4 ,civet #ae grains4 ,gum acacia #a oz4 ,glycerin oz4 ,water #a oz4 ,the leather is then folded in the centre1 smoothed with a paper-knife1 put under a weight1 and allowed to dry4 ,the dried leather forms the so-called perfume skin which retains its fine odor for years4 ,instead of the above alcoholic liquids any desired alcoholic perfume may be used2 especially suitable are those containing oils of lemon grass1 lavender1 and rose1 since they are not very volatile1 and when combined with musk and civet remain fragrant for a long time4 ,a sufficiently large piece of perfume skin inserted in a desk pad or placed among the paper will make the latter very fragrant4 ,spanish skin is chiefly used for this purpose1 as well as for work1 glove1 and handkerchief boxes1 etc4 ,it is generally inclosed in a heavy silk cover4 ,if leather be thought too expensive1 four to six layers of blotting-paper may be perfumed in the same way and properly inclosed4 ,thin layers of cotton wadding between paper can also be thus perfumed and used for filling pin cushions1 etc4 ,,spanish ,,paste4 ,mix the following substances intimately in a porcelain mortar1 and add water drop by drop until a doughy mass results4 ,ambergris oz4 ,benzoin #a oz4 ,musk oz4 ,vanilla oz4 ,orris root oz4 ,cinnamon oz4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of rose oz4 ,gum acacia #a oz4 ,glycerin #a oz4 ,this paste1 divided into pieces about the size of a hazelnut1 is used for filling the so-called cassolettes or scent boxes which are carried in the pocket1 etc41 like smelling bottles4 ,owing to its pasty consistence this preparation can be used for perfuming jewelry 7small quantities are inserted within the diamond settings71 fine leather goods1 belts1 and other articles4 ,it is unnecessary to lengthen the list2 every practical perfumer will know what objects need perfuming4 ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,,hygienic ,,and ,,cosmetic ,,perfumery4 ,perfumery is not merely called upon to act in an sthetic direction and gladden the senses2 it has another and more important aim1 that is1 to aid in some respects the practice of medicine4 ,it is not necessary to point out that in this sense1 too1 it acts in an sthetic way2 for health and beauty are one and inseparable4 ,the field relegated to perfumery with reference to hygiene is extensive1 comprising the care of the skin1 the hair1 and the mouth4 ,but we also find in commercial perfumery articles which possess no medicinal effect and serve merely for beautifying some parts of the body1 for instance1 paints and hair dyes4 ,as it is not possible to separate perfumes with hygienic effects from cosmetics1 we shall describe the latter in connection with the former4 ,to repeat1 hygienic perfumery has to deal with such substances as have really a favorable effect on health4 ,no one will deny that soap takes the first place among them4 ,soap promotes cleanliness1 and cleanliness in itself is essential to health4 ,but it would exceed the scope of this work were we to treat in detail of the manufacture of soap and its employment in the toilet2 we must confine ourselves to some specialties exclusively made by perfumers and into the composition of which soap enters4 ,we do so the more readily since perfumers are but rarely in a position to make soap1 and in most cases find it more advantageous to buy the raw material1 that is1 ordinary good soap1 from the manufacturer and to perfume it4 ,next to soap in hygienic perfumery stand the so-called emulsions and creams 7crmes7 which are excellent preparations for the skin and pertain to the domain of the perfumer4 ,the human skin consists of three distinct parts3 the deepest layer1 the subcutaneous cellular tissue which gradually changes into true skin2 the corium or true skin 7the thickest layer72 and the superficial scarf skin or epidermis which is very thin and consists largely of dead and dying cells2 these are continually shed and steadily reproduced from the corium4 ,the skin contains various depressions1 namely1 the sudoriparous glands which excrete sweat2 the sebaceous glands which serve the purpose of covering the skin with fat and thereby keep it soft1 glossy1 and supple2 and lastly the hair follicles which contain the hairs1 an appendage to the skin4 ,the main object of hygienic perfumery with reference to the skin is to keep these glandular organs in health and activity2 it effects this by various remedies which1 besides promoting the general health1 improve the appearance of the skin4 ,as a special group of preparations is intended exclusively for the care of the skin1 so another class is devoted to the preservation of the hair1 and still another to the care of the mouth and its greatest ornament1 the teeth4 ,accordingly the preparations belonging under this head will be divided into three groups--those for the skin1 the hair1 and the mouth4 ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,,preparations ,,for ,,the ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,skin4 ,,glycerin4 ,pure glycerin is a substance that has a powerful beautifying effect on the skin1 by rendering it white1 supple1 soft1 and glossy2 no other remedy will clear a sun-burnt skin in so short a time as glycerin4 ,an excellent wash may be made by the perfumer by mixing equal parts of thick1 colorless glycerin and orange-flower water 7or some other aromatic water with fine odor71 possibly giving it a rose color by the addition of a very small amount of fuchsine4 ,concentrated glycerin must not be used as a wash1 because it abstracts water from the skin and thereby produces a sensation of heat or burning4 ,besides common soap1 the so-called emulsions1 meals1 pastes1 vegetable milks and creams are the best preparations for the care of the skin2 in perfumery they are even preferable to soap in some respects because they contain not only substances which have a cleansing effect like any soap1 scented or not1 but at the same time render the skin clearer1 more transparent1 and more supple4 ,,emulsions4 ,many perfumers make a definite distinction between two groups of emulsions which they call respectively 8emulsions0 and 8true emulsions40 ,by 8emulsions0 they mean masses which have the property of changing on contact with water into a milky fluid or becoming emulsified2 the term 8true emulsions0 is applied to such preparations as already contain a sufficient amount of water and therefore have a milky appearance4 ,hence the difference between the two preparations lies in the lesser or greater quantity of water1 and is so variable that we prefer to describe them under one head4 ,the cause of the milky appearance of the emulsions on coming in contact with water is that they contain1 besides fat1 substances which possess the property of keeping the fat suspended in form of exceedingly minute droplets which make the entire fluid look like milk4 ,as a glance through the microscope shows1 the milk of animals consists of a clear fluid in which the divided fat droplets 7butter7 float2 these by their refractive power make the milk appear white4 ,while soaps always contain a certain quantity of free alkali1 a substance having active caustic properties1 emulsions include very little if any alkali1 and1 since they possess the same cleansing power as soap without its disadvantages with reference to the skin1 their steady use produces a warm youthful complexion1 as well as smoothness and delicacy of the skin4 ,glycerin is of special importance in the composition of emulsions4 ,besides the above-mentioned property of this substance of keeping the skin soft and supple1 it acts as a true cosmetic by its solvent power of coloring matters3 a skin deeply browned by exposure to the sun is most rapidly whitened by the use of glycerin alone4 ,moreover1 glycerin prevents the decomposition of the preparations and keeps them unchanged for a long time4 ,this quality has a value which should not be underestimated2 for all emulsions are very apt to decompose and become rancid owing to the finely divided fat they contain4 ,under ordinary conditions1 only complete protection against light and air can retard rancidity1 which is accompanied by a disagreeable odor not to be masked by any perfume2 an addition of glycerin1 which we incorporate in all emulsions1 makes them more permanent owing to the antiseptic property of this substance4 ,recent years1 however1 have made us acquainted with a substance which in very minute quantities--one-half of one per cent of the mass to be preserved by it--prevents decomposition and rancidity of fats4 ,this is salicylic acid1 a chemical product which1 being harmless1 tasteless1 and odorless1 should be employed wherever we wish to guard against destructive influences exerted by air1 fermentation1 etc4 ,while formerly all emulsions were made only in small amounts1 just sufficient for several weeks' use1 salicylic acid enables us to manufacture larger quantities at once and to keep them without much fear of their spoiling4 ,however1 even the presence of salicylic acid is no guaranty against deterioration1 if other precautions are neglected4 ,the products should be kept in well-stoppered bottles or vessels1 in a cool and dark place4 ,all substances cannot be preserved by salicylic acid1 and there are certain ferments or fungi which resist the action of salicylic acid4 ,if chloroform is not objectionable in any of these preparations--and only so much is necessary as can be held in actual solution by the liquid1 on an average three drops to the ounce--this preservative is preferable to salicylic acid4 ,the only fats used in the preparation of emulsions are expressed oil of almonds1 olive oil1 and lard4 ,almond oil is best made by immediate pressure of the bruised fruits1 since fresh almond meal likewise finds application in perfumery2 olive oil and lard must be very carefully purified4 ,this is done by heating them for one hour with about ten times the quantity of water containing soap 7one per cent of the quantity of fat to be purified74 ,they are then treated five or six times with pure warm water until the latter escapes quite neutral4 ,if the water turns red litmus paper blue1 it would indicate the presence of free alkali 7soap72 if it turns blue litmus paper red1 it would prove the presence of free fatty acids 7rancid fat74 ,either one of these substances1 especially the latter1 would injure the quality of the product4 ,the fat should be absolutely neutral and have no influence on either kind of litmus paper2 then its quality may be pronounced perfect4 ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,,formulas ,,for ,,the ,,preparation ,,of ,,emulsions1 ,,meals1 ,,pastes1 ,,vegetable ,,milk1 ,,and ,,cold-,,creams4 ,a4 ,emulsions4 ,,amandine4 ,almond ,cream4--,melt ten pounds of purified lard in an enamelled iron pot or a porcelain vessel1 and while increasing the temperature add little by little five pounds of potash lye of #be strength1 stirring all the time with a broad spatula4 ,when fat and lye have become a uniform mass1 #b to #c ounces of alcohol is gradually added1 whereby the mixture acquires a translucent1 crystalline appearance4 ,before the alcohol is added three-fourths to one ounce of oil of bitter almond is dissolved in it4 ,the soapy mass thus obtained is called 8almond cream0 7crme d'amandes7 and may be used alone for washing4 ,for making ,amandine take of-- ,expressed oil of almonds #aj lb4 ,almond cream #c oz4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of bitter almond #a oz4 ,oil of lemon #aej grains4 ,oil of clove #aej grains4 ,oil of mace #aej grains4 ,water #a oz4 ,sugar #c oz4 ,in the manufacture the following rules should be observed4 ,effect the mixture in a cool room1 the cellar in summer1 a fireless room in winter4 ,mix the ingredients in a shallow1 smooth vessel1 best a large porcelain dish1 using a very broad1 flat stirrer with several holes4 ,the sugar is first dissolved in the water and intimately mixed with the almond cream4 ,the essential oils are dissolved in the almond oil contained in a vessel provided with a stop-cock4 ,the oil is first allowed to run into the dish in a moderate stream under continual stirring4 ,the mass soon grows more viscid1 and toward the end of the operation the flow of oil must be carefully restricted so that the quantity admitted can be at once completely mixed with the contents of the dish4 ,well-made amandine must be rather consistent and white1 and should not be translucent4 ,if translucency or an oily appearance is observed during the mixture1 the flow of oil must be at once checked or enough almond cream must be added to restore the white appearance1 under active stirring4 ,as amandine is very liable to decompose1 it must be immediately filled into the vessels in which it is to be kept1 and the latter1 closed air-tight1 should be preserved in a cool place4 ,by adding ounce of salicylic acid1 amandine may be made quite permanent so that it can be kept unchanged even in a warm place4 ,we have described the preparation of amandine at greater length because its manufacture requires some technical skill and because the preparation of all other cold-creams corresponds in general with that of amandine4 ,,glycerin ,,emulsions4 ,a4 ,,glycerin ,,cream4 ,glycerin lb4 ,almond oil #ad oz4 ,rose water #ab oz4 ,spermaceti #c oz4 ,wax #dhj grains4 ,oil of rose #fj grains4 ,melt the wax and spermaceti by gentle heat1 then add the almond oil1 next the glycerin mixed with the rose water1 and lastly the oil of rose which may also be replaced by some other fragrant oil or mixture4 ,if the preparation is to be used in summer1 it is advisable to increase the wax by one-half1 thus giving the mass greater consistence4 ,b4 ,,glycerin ,,jelly4 ,glycerin #b lb4 ,almond oil #f lb4 ,soap #e oz4 ,oil of orange peel #aej grains4 ,oil of thyme oz4 ,mix the soap with the glycerin1 gradually add the oil 7as for amandine71 and finally the aromatics4 ,,jasmine ,,emulsion4 ,huile antique de jasmin #b lb4 ,almond cream #e oz4 ,expressed oil of almond #d lb4 ,water #e oz4 ,sugar #b oz4 ,mix in the same order as given under ,amandine4 ,,tuberose ,,emulsion4 ,huile antique des tubroses #a to #b lb4 ,almond cream #e oz4 ,expressed oil of almond #d lb4 ,water #e oz4 ,sugar #b oz4 ,,violet ,,emulsion4 ,huile antique des violettes #b to #c lb4 ,almond cream #e oz4 ,expressed oil of almond #d lb4 ,water #e oz4 ,sugar #b oz4 ,in place of the huiles antiques named 7i4e41 fine oils saturated with the odors of the corresponding flowers7 any other huile antique may be used and the cream then called by the name of the flower whose odor it possesses4 ,such creams with genuine huiles antiques are among the finest preparations known in perfumery and of course are high-priced1 owing to the cost of the huiles antiques4 ,,olivine4 ,gum acacia lb4 ,yolk of egg #aj yolks4 ,olive oil #d lb4 ,soap #g oz4 ,water #h oz4 ,sugar #e oz4 ,oil of bergamot #b oz4 ,oil of lemon #b oz4 ,oil of clove #a oz4 ,oil of orange peel oz4 ,oil of thyme #ge grains4 ,oil of cinnamon #ge grains4 ,the gum1 sugar1 water1 and yolk of eggs are first intimately mixed and gradually added to the olive oil containing the essential oils4 ,b4 ,meals and ,pastes4 ,the so-called meals 7farines7 and pastes 7ptes7 really consist of the flour of fatty vegetable substances which possess the property of forming an emulsion with water and are frequently used in washes4 ,as they are free from alkali1 they are the most delicate preparations of the kind and are especially suitable for washing the face or sensitive hands4 ,,simple ,,almond ,,paste 7,p,,te ,d',,amandes ,,simple74 ,bitter almonds #f lb4 ,alcohol #b qts4 ,rose water #d qts4 ,oil of bergamot #aj oz4 ,oil of lemon #c oz4 ,put the bitter almonds in a sieve1 dip them for a few seconds in boiling water1 when they can be easily deprived of their brown skin2 carefully bruise them in a mortar1 and place them in a glazed pot set in another kept full with boiling water2 pour over them two quarts of the rose water heated to near the boiling-point4 ,keep up the heat under continual stirring until the almond meal and rose water form a uniform mass free from granules2 in other words1 until the meal is changed into paste4 ,the pot is now allowed to cool somewhat1 when the rest of the rose water and the oils dissolved in alcohol are added4 ,almond paste should have a uniform1 butter-like consistence if the first part of the operation has been carefully performed4 ,,almond ,,and ,,honey ,,paste 7,p,,te ,d',,amandes ,,au ,,miel74 ,bitter almonds #b lb4 ,yolk of egg #cj yolks4 ,honey #d lb4 ,expressed oil of almond #d lb4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,oil of clove oz4 ,decorticate and bruise the bitter almonds and add them with the essential oils to the mixed yolks1 honey1 and almond oil4 ,,almond ,,meal 7,,farine ,d',,amandes74 ,almond meal #d lb4 ,orris root1 powdered #e oz4 ,oil of lemon #a oz4 ,oil of bitter almond #aej grains4 ,oil of lemon grass #ge grains4 ,almond meal here means the bran left after expressing the oil from sweet almonds4 ,first mix the powdered orris root intimately with the essential oils and triturate the mass with the almond bran4 ,other essential oils may also be used for perfuming the mass4 ,,pistachio ,,meal 7,,farine ,,de ,,pistaches74 ,pistachio nuts #d lb4 ,orris root1 powdered #d lb4 ,oil of lemon #a oz4 ,oil of neroli #aej grains4 ,oil of orange peel #a oz4 ,the pistachio nuts are blanched in the same manner as almonds 7see under ,simple ,almond ,paste71 and then reduced to a meal4 ,c4 ,vegetable ,milk4 ,the several varieties of vegetable milk are merely emulsions containing sufficient water to give them a milky appearance4 ,they are used as such for washes and are in great favor4 ,owing to the larger amount of water they contain1 they are more liable to decompose than the preparations described above1 since the fats present in them easily become rancid on account of their fine division in the milk4 ,in order to render these preparations more stable1 they receive an addition of about five to ten per cent of their weight of pure glycerin which enhances their cosmetic effect4 ,the addition of about one-half of one per cent of salicylic acid is likewise to be recommended1 as it makes them more stable4 ,in the following pages we shall describe only the most important of these preparations usually made by the perfumer4 ,in this connection we may state that by slightly modifying the substances used to perfume them1 new varieties of vegetable milk can be easily prepared4 ,every vegetable milk consists in the main of a base of soap1 wax1 and spermaceti1 and an aromatic water which gives the name to the preparation4 ,this composition is intended to keep suspended the fatty vegetable substances 7almond or pistachio meal1 etc471 thus producing a milky appearance4 ,vegetable milks are made as follows4 ,melt the soap with the wax and spermaceti at a gentle heat4 ,prepare a milk from the vegetable substance and the aromatic water 7e4g41 unexpressed almonds and rose water7 by careful trituration1 strain it through fine silk gauze into the vessel containing the melted mixture of soap1 wax1 and spermaceti1 stir thoroughly1 let it cool1 and add the alcohol holding in solution the essential oils1 the glycerin 7and the salicylic acid71 under continual stirring4 ,the alcohol must be added in a very thin stream1 otherwise a portion of the mass will curdle4 ,the coarser particles contained in the milk must be allowed to settle by leaving the preparation at rest for twenty-four hours1 when the milk can be carefully decanted from the sediment and filled into bottles for sale4 ,,lilac ,,milk 7,,lait ,,de ,,lilas74 ,soap #b oz4 ,wax #b oz4 ,spermaceti #b oz4 ,sweet almonds #a lb4 ,lilac-flower water #d pints4 ,huile antique de lilas #b oz4 ,alcohol 7#hj-he ,tralles7 #b lb4 ,in place of lilac-flower water and huile antique de lilas1 lilacin 7terpineol7 may be used1 a sufficient quantity 7about #a oz47 being dissolved in the alcohol4 ,but the lilacin must be pure and of clean odor4 ,,virginal ,,milk 7,,lait ,,virginal74 ,this preparation differs from all other milks sold in perfumery in that it consists of some aromatic water with tincture of benzoin and tolu4 ,in making it1 pour the aromatic water in a very thin stream into the tincture under vigorous stirring4 ,if the water flows in too rapidly1 the resins present in the tincture separate in lumps2 but if slowly poured in1 the resins form minute spheres which remain suspended4 ,the preparation is named after the aromatic water it contains3 ,lait virginal de la rose1 fleurs d'oranges1 etc4 ,its formula is3 ,tincture of benzoin #b oz4 ,tincture of tolu #b oz4 ,aromatic water #d qts4 ,,cucumber ,,milk 7,,lait ,,de ,,concombres74 ,soap #a oz4 ,olive oil #a oz4 ,wax #a oz4 ,spermaceti #a oz4 ,sweet almonds #a lb4 ,cucumber juice 7freshly expressed7 #d pints4 ,extract of cucumber #a pint4 ,alcohol #b lb4 ,,dandelion ,,milk4 ,soap #b oz4 ,olive oil #b oz4 ,wax #b oz4 ,sweet almonds #a lb4 ,extract of tuberose #a lb4 ,rose water #e pints4 ,dandelion juice #e oz4 ,dandelion juice is the bitter milk sap of the root of the common dandelion 7,leontodon taraxacum72 it should be expressed immediately before use4 ,the rose water may be replaced by some other aromatic water or even ordinary water2 but the latter should be distilled1 otherwise the lime it contains would form an insoluble combination with the soap4 ,,bitter-,,almond ,,milk 7,,lait ,d',,amandes ,,am,,res74 ,bitter almonds #b oz4 ,soap #b oz4 ,expressed oil of almond #b oz4 ,wax #b oz4 ,spermaceti #b oz4 ,rose water #d qts4 ,alcohol #c pints4 ,oil of bitter almond oz4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,,rose ,,milk 7,,lait ,,de ,,roses74 ,olive oil #b oz4 ,soap #b oz4 ,wax #b oz4 ,spermaceti #b oz4 ,sweet almonds #d lb4 ,oil of rose #aej grains4 ,rose water #d qts4 ,alcohol #a pint4 ,,pistachio ,,milk 7,,lait ,,de ,,pistaches74 ,soap4 #b oz4 ,olive oil #b oz4 ,wax #b oz4 ,spermaceti #b oz4 ,pistachio nuts #ad oz4 ,oil of neroli oz4 ,orange-flower water #f qts4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,d4 ,cold-,creams and ,lip ,salves4 ,in the main they resemble in their composition the emulsions and vegetable milks1 but differ by their thick consistence which renders them suitable for being rubbed into the skin4 ,cold-creams are really salves perfumed with one of the well-known odors which give them their names4 ,fat forms the basis of these mixtures and gives them their hygienic effect1 as it imparts fulness and softness to the skin4 ,every well-made cold-cream should have the consistence of recently congealed wax and should yield to the pressure of the finger like pomatum4 ,it should be noted that the addition of very thick glycerin will increase the effect of the cold-cream and improve its fine transparent appearance2 but this substance must be added with great care1 otherwise the mass will not possess the required firmness4 ,in making cold-cream1 a mixture of wax1 spermaceti1 and expressed almond oil must be combined with an aromatic water and an essential oil4 ,the first part of the operation is easy2 the wax and spermaceti are melted at the lowest possible temperature1 and the almond oil is added under continual stirring4 ,it is more difficult to unite the other substances with this base2 the aromatic water is admitted in a thin stream under vigorous stirring 7or whipping1 or churning71 and when it forms a uniform mass with the contents of the mortar the remaining substances are stirred in and the still fluid mass is poured into the vessels intended for it1 and allowed to congeal4 ,cold-creams are usually sold in tasteful porcelain jars or vases4 ,to guard against rancidity of the mass1 the vessels are closed either with ground stoppers or with corks covered with tin foil4 ,the essential oils should be added last1 when the mass has cooled to the congealing-point2 if added before1 too much of them is lost by evaporation4 ,we give below several approved formulas for the preparation of some favorite cold-creams1 and repeat that new varieties can be produced by introducing any desired odor into the composition4 ,,glycerin ,,cold-,,cream ,a4 ,expressed oil of almond #b lb4 ,wax #b oz4 ,spermaceti #b oz4 ,glycerin #g oz4 ,oil of bergamot oz4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,oil of geranium oz4 ,oil of neroli #aej grains4 ,oil of cinnamon #aej grains4 ,rose water #a lb4 ,,glycerin ,,cold-,,cream ,b4 ,expressed oil of almond #b lb4 ,wax #d oz4 ,spermaceti #d oz4 ,glycerin lb4 ,oil of rose #aej grains4 ,civet #cj grains4 ,,camphor ,,ice 7,,camphor ,,cold-,,cream74 ,wax #b oz4 ,spermaceti #b oz4 ,expressed oil of almond #b lb4 ,camphor #d oz4 ,oil of rosemary #ij grains4 ,oil of peppermint #de grains4 ,rose water #b lb4 ,,camphor ,,ice 7,p,,te ,,camphorique74 ,lard #b lb4 ,wax lb4 ,camphor lb4 ,oil of lavender oz4 ,oil of rosemary oz4 ,this mixture1 which is rather firm1 is frequently poured into shallow porcelain boxes2 sometimes it is colored red with alkanet root4 ,,camphor ,,balls 7,,savonettes ,,camphoriques74 ,expressed oil of almond #g oz4 ,purified tallow #b lb4 ,wax #g oz4 ,spermaceti #g oz4 ,camphor #g oz4 ,oil of lavender oz4 ,oil of rosemary oz4 ,oil of cinnamon #ge grains4 ,savonette is generally understood to mean a soap cast in spherical moulds2 this preparation is1 as a rule1 likewise sold in this form4 ,,divine ,,pomade ,a4 ,expressed oil of almond #c lb4 ,spermaceti #a lb4 ,lard #b lb4 ,benzoin #a lb4 ,vanilla #g oz4 ,civet oz4 ,the aromatic substances1 having been comminuted1 are thoroughly triturated with the other ingredients1 and the mass is kept for twenty-four hours at a temperature of #ej to #fj ,c4 7#aab-adj ,f471 when it is carefully decanted from the sediment1 which is treated again with another mass of the same substances for thirty-six to forty-eight hours4 ,,divine ,,pomade ,b4 ,beef marrow #b lb4 ,benzoin #a oz4 ,nutmegs #a oz4 ,cloves #a oz4 ,storax #a oz4 ,orris root #a oz4 ,civet #ge grains4 ,cinnamon #a oz4 ,orange-flower water #b lb4 ,the solid substances are macerated for forty-eight hours with the warm marrow1 the liquid perfumed marrow is then strained off and mixed with the orange-flower water4 ,,cologne ,,cold-,,cream 7,,cr,,me ,,de ,,cologne74 ,expressed oil of almond #b lb4 ,wax #b oz4 ,spermaceti #b oz4 ,mecca balsam #g oz4 ,tolu balsam #c oz4 ,rose water #ad oz4 ,mecca balsam has been a rare article in commerce for many years4 ,that which is usually sold as such is more or less adulterated or an imitation4 ,the genuine was derived from ,balsamodendron ,opobalsamum ,kunth4 ,,cucumber ,,cold-,,cream ,a4 ,expressed oil of almond #b lb4 ,wax #b oz4 ,spermaceti #b oz4 ,extract of cucumber #e oz4 ,cucumber juice1 fresh #b lb4 ,the cucumber juice is carefully heated to #fj or #fe ,c4 7#adj-adi;,f471 rapidly filtered from the curds1 and at once added to the rest of the mass4 ,,cucumber ,,cold-,,cream ,b4 ,lard #f lb4 ,spermaceti #b lb4 ,benzoin #g oz4 ,extract of cucumber #b lb4 ,the benzoin is first macerated with the warmed fat for twenty-four hours1 and this aromatic fat is treated in the usual manner4 ,,lip ,,salve ,a 7,,pomade ,,blanche ,,pour ,,les ,l,,vres74 ,expressed oil of almond #b lb4 ,wax #d oz4 ,spermaceti #d oz4 ,oil of bitter almond oz4 ,oil of lemon grass #ge grains4 ,oil of rose #ge grains4 ,,red ,,lip ,,salve ,b 7,,pomade ,,la ,,rose ,,pour ,,les ,l,,vres74 ,expressed oil of almond #b lb4 ,wax #d oz4 ,spermaceti #d oz4 ,oil of geranium #aej grains4 ,oil of santal #ij grains4 ,alkanet root #d oz4 ,the beautiful red color which distinguishes this preparation is produced with alkanet root2 the mass1 before the essential oils are added1 being macerated for from six to eight hours1 under frequent stirring1 with the comminuted root1 and then decanted from the sediment4 ,,cherry ,,salve ,c 7,,pomade ,,cerise74 ,expressed oil of almond #b lb4 ,wax #d oz4 ,spermaceti #d oz4 ,oil of bitter almond oz4 ,oil of sweet bay #aej grains4 ,alkanet root #d oz4 ,the procedure is the same as for pomade la rose4 ,,almond ,,cold-,,cream4 ,expressed oil of almond #b lb4 ,wax #d oz4 ,spermaceti #d oz4 ,rose water #b lb4 ,oil of bitter almond oz4 ,civet #cj grains4 ,,almond ,,balls 7,,savonettes ,d',,amandes74 ,tallow #b lb4 ,wax #aj oz4 ,spermaceti #g oz4 ,oil of bitter almond #aej grains4 ,oil of clove #ge grains4 ,oil of cinnamon #ge grains4 ,this is usually formed into balls4 ,,rosebud ,,cold-,,cream4 ,almond oil #b lb4 ,wax #b oz4 ,spermaceti #b oz4 ,rose water #b lb4 ,oil of rose #ge grains4 ,oil of geranium #ge grains4 ,,violet ,,cold-,,cream 7,,cr,,me ,,de ,,violettes74 ,huile antique de violettes #b lb4 ,wax #b oz4 ,spermaceti #b oz4 ,violet water #b lb4 ,oil of bitter almond #aej grains4 ,oil of neroli #ge grains4 ,,appendix4 ,,nail ,,powder 7,,poudre ,,pour ,,les ,,ongles2 ,,fingernagel-,,pulver74 ,the finger nails1 being an appendage to the skin1 belong under the head of the ,care of the ,skin2 we therefore give a formula for preparing the powder used for imparting smoothness and gloss to the nails4 ,for use1 some of the powder is poured on a piece of soft glove leather and the nails are rubbed until they shine4 ,oxide of tin #d lb4 ,carmine oz4 ,oil of bergamot #aej grains4 ,oil of lavender #aej grains4 ,the oxide of tin must be an impalpable powder and is mixed with the other substances in a mortar4 ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,,the ,,preparations ,,used ,,for ,,the ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,hair 7,,pomades ,,and ,,hair ,,oils74 ,the hair1 the beautiful ornament of the human body1 requires fat for its care and preservation1 for there are but few persons whose scalp is so vigorous that the hair can derive sufficient nourishment from it to maintain its gloss and smoothness4 ,among the ancient ,greeks1 ,romans1 and ,germans various ointments were in use for the care of the hair4 ,in ,rome there was even1 as we have stated in an earlier part of the book1 a special guild of ointment-makers or unguentarii4 ,they employed a process for making their ointments fragrant which resembles that of maceration in present use4 ,the so-called pomades 7from pomum1 apple7 were prepared by sticking a fine apple full of spices and placing it for a long time in liquid fat which absorbed the odor of the spices4 ,in the present state of chemical science1 the basis of every pomade or hair oil is formed by some fat perfumed with aromatic substances and at times colored4 ,the fats generally used are lard1 beef marrow1 tallow1 bears' grease1 olive or almond oil2 some of the firmer fats receive an addition of a certain amount of paraffin1 spermaceti1 or wax1 in order to give the pomade greater consistence4 ,as in the manufacture of all the finer articles1 it is essential that whatever fat is employed should be perfectly pure2 only fat which is absolutely neutral1 i4e41 free from acid1 can be used1 and any sample with but a trace of rancidity 7containing free fatty acids7 should be rejected on account of the penetrating odor peculiar to several of these acids4 ,manufacturers who aim at the production of fine goods spare neither trouble nor expense in order to obtain perfectly pure fats4 ,fats are purified for the purposes of the perfumer in the following manner3 ,the fat is melted in a bright iron pot or enamelled vessel with three times the quantity of water containing in solution about one per cent 7of the weight of the fat7 of alum and one per cent of table salt4 ,fat and water are well stirred with a broad flat ladle or some mechanical arrangement within the boiler4 ,after the mass has remained at rest for some time1 the curdled solid matters are skimmed from the surface4 ,the time required for this operation can be much shortened by the use of a pump which raises the fat and water from the boiler and returns them in a fine spray4 ,when fats with some degree of rancidity are to be made suitable for the purposes of the perfumer1 #j4e of caustic soda lye is added to the water instead of the alum4 ,after this treatment is completed1 the fat must be washed in order to free it from the substances with which it was purified4 ,formerly this washing was done in a manner resembling the grinding of oil colors4 ,the fat was placed on a level stone plate and kneaded with a muller with flat base under a continual stream of water flowing from above1 until the fat was clean4 ,this expensive hand labor is now performed by machines1 the fat being treated with water in vertical mills4 ,no matter how carefully a fat was purified1 it may happen that the pomades made from it1 if kept long in stock1 may subsequently become rancid--a circumstance which may destroy the reputation of a factory4 ,fortunately we know two substances which materially counteract the tendency of fats to become rancid3 salicylic acid and benzoin4 ,either of these substances is added to many perfumery articles1 especially pomades1 in order to prevent rancidity2 an admixture of from one-one-thousandth to five-one-thousandths parts of solid salicylic acid suffices1 according to our experiments1 for the purpose2 of benzoin we need about three-fourths of an ounce for every quart of fat2 the resin is only partly soluble in fat1 but imparts to it its vanilla-like odor4 ,for the finest pomades sublimed benzoic acid is used1 in the proportion of about #aej to #bdj grains to the quart of fat4 ,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,,formulas ,,for ,,the ,,manufacture ,,of ,,pomades ,,and ,,hair ,,oils4 ,a4 ,pomades4 ,in manufacturing perfumery two groups of pomades are distinguished--those with a hard base1 and those with a soft base4 ,by base is meant the fat which is the vehicle of the odor in every pomade4 ,the consistence of the substance depends upon its melting-point2 lard and beef marrow1 having a low melting-point1 furnish soft pomades2 while beef and mutton tallow1 which often receive an addition of paraffin1 wax1 or spermaceti in order to make them firmer1 have a higher melting-point and serve for hard pomades4 ,french perfumers put on the market some very fine pomades consisting of the fat which has served for the absorption of odors by maceration1 enfleurage1 etc41 and which has been treated with alcohol for the extraction of the odors 7so-called washed pomades74 ,no matter how long such a fat is treated with alcohol1 it tenaciously retains a portion of the odor to which the great fragrance of these pomades is due and which has given them their reputation4 ,if the pomades resulting from the following formulas should turn out too soft--a fact depending on the climate of the place of manufacture--they may receive an addition of a mixture of equal parts of paraffin1 wax1 and spermaceti1 in portions of respectively five per cent at each addition1 until the desired ointment-like consistence is attained4 ,,cantharidal ,,pomade4 ,beef marrow #d lb4 ,wax #g oz4 ,oil of mace #aej grains4 ,oil of clove #aej grains4 ,oil of rose #aej grains4 ,tincture of cantharides oz4 ,tincture of cantharides is prepared by prolonged maceration of ounce of powdered cantharides in one quart of alcohol4 ,,circassian ,,pomade4 ,benzoin pomade 7see below7 #b lb4 ,rose pomade #a lb4 ,lard #b lb4 ,expressed oil of almond #d lb4 ,alkanet root #c oz4 ,oil of rose oz4 ,the almond oil alone is first macerated with the alkanet root until1 when added to the other ingredients1 it imparts a beautiful red color to the pomade4 ,,benzoin ,,pomade ,a4 ,benzoic acid1 sublimed #d oz4 ,purified fat #d lb4 ,,benzoin ,,pomade ,b4 ,benzoin #ab oz4 ,fat #d lb4 ,macerate the benzoin or benzoic acid in the fat at the temperature of boiling water for several hours1 and strain the pomade through a cloth4 ,,double ,,pomades4 ,these pomades are put on the market in excellent quality especially by ,french manufacturers4 ,they consist of a mixture of washed pomades and huiles antiques4 ,the respective quantities must be chosen according to the climate of the country for which the articles are intended4 ,colder countries require equal parts by weight of pomades and oils2 warmer climates1 two parts of fat to one of oil4 ,,crystallized ,,oil 7,,huile ,,crystallis,e74 ,huile antique of orange flowers #a lb4 ,huile antique of roses #b lb4 ,huile antique of tuberoses #b lb4 ,huile antique of violets #b lb4 ,spermaceti #a lb4 ,paraffin #g oz4 ,the addition of spermaceti and paraffin causes the mixture to assume a crystalline form on cooling1 the appearance improving in proportion as the cooling is slow and gradual4 ,first melt the paraffin and spermaceti on a water bath1 add the huiles antiques1 mix thoroughly by prolonged stirring1 and pour the finished product into the vessels in which it is to be sold4 ,these vessels are previously warmed to #fj or #gj ,c4 7#adj-aeh;,f471 and very slowly after filling1 so as to secure a beautiful crystalline mass4 ,a second quality of crystalline hair oil is made according to the following formula3 ,expressed oil of almond #aj lb4 ,spermaceti #ba oz4 ,paraffin #ad oz4 ,oil of bergamot #b oz4 ,oil of lemon #d oz4 ,oil of bitter almond #aej grains4 ,,blossom ,,pomade 7,,pomade ,,fleurs74 ,expressed oil of almond #d lb4 ,jasmine pomade #bh oz4 ,rose pomade #bh oz4 ,violet pomade #bh oz4 ,oil of bergamot oz4 ,oil of lemon #aej grains4 ,,bear',s ,,grease ,,pomade 7,,pomade ,,graisse ,d',,ours74 ,expressed oil of almond #bj lb4 ,lard #bd lb4 ,cassie pomade #d lb4 ,jasmine pomade #d lb4 ,huile antique of cassie #a lb4 ,huile antique of jasmine #a lb4 ,huile antique of orange flowers #a lb4 ,huile antique of roses #a lb4 ,huile antique of tuberoses #a lb4 ,oil of bergamot lb4 ,oil of lemon #c oz4 ,oil of nutmeg #a oz4 ,oil of clove #d oz4 ,this pomade is rather consistent2 if it is to be made still firmer for summer use or warm climates1 the almond oil should be diminished and the lard increased in proportion1 or some tallow and wax added4 ,the pomade is made by mixing the oil and lard1 adding next the pomades and huiles antiques1 and finally the essential oils4 ,the temperature should not be higher than suffices to keep the mass liquid2 the mixture is effected by vigorous stirring1 and is then at once1 though gradually1 cooled4 ,,beef-,,marrow ,,pomade 7,,pomade ,,mo,,lle ,,de ,b,,uf74 ,lard #h lb4 ,beef marrow #d lb4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of lemon #b oz4 ,oil of mace #aej grains4 ,oil of clove #aej grains4 ,,marrow ,,cream 7,,cr,,me ,,de ,,mo,,lle74 ,expressed oil of almond #d lb4 ,lard #d lb4 ,palm oil #c oz4 ,oil of bergamot #b oz4 ,oil of lemon #g oz4 ,oil of nutmeg #aej grains4 ,oil of clove #aej grains4 ,oil of cinnamon #aej grains4 ,the public is accustomed to receive the last two pomades in the form of froth4 ,this can be easily effected by whipping the pomade during cooling with an egg-beater until it is solidified4 ,,cinchona ,,pomade 7,,pomade ,,quinquine74 ,lard #d lb4 ,expressed oil of almond #a lb4 ,beef marrow #f lb4 ,peru balsam #a oz4 ,cinchona bark oz4 ,oil of clove #a oz4 ,oil of rose #aej grains4 ,macerate the finely powdered bark in the fat for some hours1 add the ,peru balsam1 strain through a cloth1 and incorporate the essential oils4 ,the pomade is vaunted as a hair tonic1 as well as ,,tanno-,,quinine ,,pomade1 which is prepared in the same way2 the only difference being the addition of #aej grains of tannin4 ,,castor-,,oil ,,cream 7,,cr,,me ,,de ,,ricine74 ,expressed oil of almond #c lb4 ,castor oil #c lb4 ,rose pomade #b lb4 ,orange-flower pomade #b lb4 ,tuberose pomade #b lb4 ,oil of bergamot #g oz4 ,oil of lemon #c oz4 ,,orange-,,flower ,,pomade 7,,pomade ,,fleurs ,d',,oranges74 ,expressed oil of almond #ch oz4 ,cassie pomade #ch oz4 ,rose pomade #ce oz4 ,jasmine pomade #ce oz4 ,oil of bitter almond #aej grains4 ,oil of neroli oz4 ,,heliotrope ,,pomade 7,,pomade ,,de ,h,,liotrope74 ,rose pomade #d lb4 ,orange-flower pomade #a lb4 ,huile antique of jasmine #b lb4 ,huile antique of orange flower #a lb4 ,huile antique of tuberose #a lb4 ,vanilla pomade #b lb4 ,oil of bitter almond #aej grains4 ,oil of clove #ge grains4 ,,transparent ,,pomade4 ,expressed oil of almond #f lb4 ,wax #e oz4 ,spermaceti #a lb4 ,oil of bitter almond #ge grains4 ,oil of rose #aej grains4 ,tincture of musk #a oz4 ,the pomade is completely liquefied after being mixed and allowed to congeal in the vessels in which it is marketed4 ,if successful1 the product must be quite transparent or at least decidedly translucent4 ,,tonka ,,cream4 ,tonka beans #a lb4 ,lard #h lb4 ,the powdered beans are stirred into the melted fat1 in which they remain for several days1 the fat being agitated from time to time2 when it smells strong enough1 it is strained through fine linen1 and the tonka beans are treated with another quantity of fat4 ,,violet ,,pomade 7,,pomade ,,des ,,violettes74 ,lard #d lb4 ,cassie pomade #c lb4 ,rose pomade #b lb4 ,violet pomade #b lb4 ,,vanilla ,,cream 7,,cr,,me ,,de ,,vanille74 ,vanilla #g oz4 ,lard #f lb4 ,in making this pomade the material is treated the same as in preparing tonka pomade4 ,ordinary vanilla pomade is made by triturating3 ,peru balsam #g oz4 ,lard #b lb4 ,expressed oil of almond #b lb4 ,first triturate the balsam with the almond oil and gradually add the lard4 ,another1 much better process is the following3 ,,vanilla ,,pomade4 ,vanillin #hj grains4 ,peru balsam oz4 ,lard #f lb4 ,dissolve the vanillin and balsam of ,peru in about #d oz4 of alcohol4 ,melt the lard at as low a temperature as possible1 then add the solution1 stir until it is well incorporated1 and afterward repeatedly until the mass is cold4 ,,pomade ,,philocome4 ,huile antique of cassie #a lb4 ,huile antique of jasmine #a lb4 ,huile antique of orange flower #c oz4 ,huile antique of rose #c oz4 ,huile antique of tuberose #c oz4 ,huile antique of violet #a lb4 ,paraffin #aj oz4 ,wax #ad oz4 ,this pomade has a delightful odor but is expensive2 an inferior and much cheaper philocome is made as follows3 ,expressed oil of almond #h lb4 ,paraffin lb4 ,wax #ad oz4 ,oil of bergamot #d oz4 ,oil of lemon #a oz4 ,oil of lavender oz4 ,nutmeg #ge grains4 ,cloves #ge grains4 ,cinnamon #ge grains4 ,pomades are usually colored--rose pomade1 red2 reseda pomade1 green2 violet pomade1 violet1 etc4 ,for this purpose aniline colors are frequently used2 they must be dissolved in glycerin and added to the fat1 as they are insoluble in the latter4 ,the coloring matter is added when the pomades are finished1 before they are allowed to congeal4 ,b4 ,hair ,oils4 ,these differ from pomades mainly by containing huiles antiques instead of washed pomades2 they are therefore more or less liquid and are used for the hair as much as pomades4 ,,benzoated ,,oil 7,,huile ,,benjamin74 ,sublimed benzoic acid #e oz4 ,expressed oil of almond #d lb4 ,the acid must be dissolved in the hot oil4 ,,huile ,l',,ess-,,bouquet4 ,oil of rose #aej grains4 ,oil of reseda #c oz4 ,oil of violet #aej grains4 ,tincture of musk #ge grains4 ,almond oil #f lb4 ,the essential oils are mixed1 and the almond oil is added in small portions under continual stirring4 ,,heliotrope ,,hair ,,oil 7,,huile ,h,,liotrope74 ,huile antique of jasmine #aj oz4 ,huile antique of rose #b lb4 ,huile antique of orange flower #e oz4 ,huile antique of tuberose #e oz4 ,huile antique of vanilla #a lb4 ,oil of bitter almond #aej grains4 ,oil of clove #ge grains4 ,,jasmine ,,hair ,,oil 7,,huile ,,de ,,jasmin74 ,expressed oil of almond #d lb4 ,huile antique of jasmine4 #g oz4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of lemon #aej grains4 ,,oil ,,of ,,swiss ,,herbs4 ,expressed oil of almond #d lb4 ,oil of bergamot #aej grains4 ,oil of lemon #ge grains4 ,oil of lavender #ge grains4 ,oil of peppermint #aej grains4 ,oil of cinnamon #ge grains4 ,,oil ,,of ,,burdock ,,root4 ,expressed oil of almond #d lb4 ,burdock root #a lb4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of lemon #a oz4 ,oil of rose oz4 ,the burdock root is macerated for two days in the warm oil1 which is then filtered and the other ingredients are added4 ,,macassar ,,oil4 ,expressed oil of almond #d lb4 ,alkanet root #g oz4 ,oil of clove #ge grains4 ,oil of mace #ge grains4 ,oil of rose #ge grains4 ,oil of cinnamon oz4 ,tincture of musk #ge grains4 ,the alkanet root in coarse powder must be macerated in the warm almond oil until it acquires a deep red color4 ,,peru ,,hair ,,oil4 ,peru balsam #c oz4 ,storax #a oz4 ,expressed oil of almond #h lb4 ,mix by stirring1 and allow to settle for two weeks in a completely filled bottle4 ,,huile ,,philocome4 ,expressed oil of almond #d lb4 ,huile antique of cassie #a lb4 ,huile antique of jasmine #bh oz4 ,wax #c oz4 ,spermaceti #a oz4 ,oil of neroli #a oz4 ,oil of rose #aej grains4 ,oil of cinnamon #ge grains4 ,,portugal ,,oil4 ,expressed oil of almond #d lb4 ,oil of bergamot #a oz4 ,oil of lemon #aej grains4 ,oil of neroli #ge grains4 ,oil of orange flower #ge grains4 ,oil of orange peel oz4 ,oil of cinnamon #ge grains4 ,,tonka ,,oil4 ,tonka beans #a lb4 ,expressed oil of almond #d lb4 ,inclose the powdered tonka beans in a linen bag1 which is hung into the cold oil and allowed to macerate for several weeks4 ,the same process is employed for the following3 ,,vanilla ,,oil4 ,vanilla #g oz4 ,almond oil #d lb4 ,or1 ,vanillin #hj grains4 ,expressed oil of almond #d lb4 ,,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,,preparations ,,for ,,the ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,mouth4 ,besides the red lips and the gums1 the teeth in particular ornament the mouth4 ,unfortunately there are but few persons who can boast of a perfectly healthy set of teeth1 which is found as a normal condition only among savages and animals4 ,the chief causes of the admitted fact that most persons have some defect in the mouth--bad teeth1 pale gums1 offensive odor--lie in part in our civilization with the ingestion of hot and sometimes sour food1 in part in the lack of attention bestowed on the care of the mouth by many people4 ,the care of the mouth is most important after meals and in the morning2 particles of food lodge even between the most perfect teeth and undergo rapid decomposition in the high temperature prevailing in the mouth4 ,this gives rise to a most disagreeable odor1 and the decomposition quickly extends to the teeth4 ,perfectly normal healthy teeth consist of a hard1 brilliant external coat1 the enamel1 which opposes great resistance to acid and decomposing substances4 ,but unfortunately the enamel is very sensitive to changes of temperature and easily cracks1 thus admitting to the bony part of the teeth such deleterious substances and leading to their destruction4 ,the bulk of the tooth consists of a porous mass of bone which is easily destroyed1 and thus the entire set may be lost4 ,hygienic perfumery is able to offer to the public means by which a healthy set of teeth can be kept in good condition and the disease arrested in affected teeth1 and by which an agreeable freshness is imparted to the gums and lips4 ,while true perfumes may be looked upon as more or less of a luxury1 the hygiene of the mouth is a necessity2 for we have to deal with the health and preservation of the important masticatory apparatus which is necessary to the welfare of the whole body1 so that the sthetic factor occupies a secondary position1 or rather results as a necessary consequence from a proper care of the mouth4 ,with no other hygienic article have so many sins been committed as with those intended for the teeth2 we have had occasion to examine a number of tooth powders1 some of them very high-priced1 which were decidedly injurious4 ,thus we have known of cases in which powdered pumice stone1 colored and perfumed1 has been sold as a tooth powder4 ,pumice stone1 however1 resembles glass in its composition and acts on the teeth like a fine file which rapidly wears away the enamel and exposes the frail bony substance4 ,it needs no further explanation to prove the destructive effects of such a powder on the teeth4 ,many person prize finely powdered wood charcoal as a tooth powder1 and to some extent they are right4 ,wood charcoal always contains alkalies which neutralize the injurious acids1 besides traces of products of dry distillation which prevent decomposition4 ,but these valuable properties are counteracted by the fact that charcoal is always more or less gritty1 or1 being insoluble1 will lodge between the teeth and form the nucleus for the lodgement of other substances4 ,in compounding articles for the mouth and teeth--tooth powders and mouth washes--the objects aimed at are to neutralize the chemical processes that injure the teeth and gums1 and to restore freshness and resisting power to the relaxed gums and mucous membranes4 ,remnants of food left in the mouth after meals soon develop acids which attack the teeth2 they are neutralized by basic substances or alkalies which counteract them4 ,the formation of organic acids from food remnants is caused by microscopic fungi 7schizomycetes7 which adhere to the teeth 7so-called tartar7 in the absence of cleanliness2 against these parasites there are at our disposal a number of substances which kill them rapidly and thus for a time arrest the process of decomposition2 they are therefore called antiseptics4 ,another group of ingredients acts especially on such abnormal conditions of the membranous and fleshy parts of the mouth as manifest themselves by colorless1 easily bleeding gums4 ,it is mainly compounds of the tannin group which strengthen the gums and are known as astringents4 ,in compounding articles for the teeth it has thus far unfortunately not been customary to combine several of the substances having the above properties1 the general rule being to incorporate only one in the composition1 and some so-called tooth lotions consist even of aromatics alone4 ,such articles perfume the mouth1 but have no hygienic effect upon it4 ,among the essential oils1 however1 there is one which should form a part of every article intended for the care of the mouth1 provided it can remain unchanged in the presence of the other ingredients1 which would not be the case where permanganate of potassium is used4 ,oil of peppermint and other mint oils exert a very refreshing influence on the mucous membranes of the mouth1 in which they leave a sensation of freshness lasting for some time4 ,we give below a number of formulas for the manufacture of articles for the care of the mouth1 as to the value of which the reader can form his own opinion from what has been stated4 ,finally it may be observed that several of the so-called secret preparations for the care of the mouth are arrant humbugs1 worthless substances being sold at exorbitant prices and1 worse yet1 lacking the vaunted hygienic effect owing to their chemical composition4 ,the articles for the care of the mouth and teeth may be divided into tooth pastes1 tooth powders1 tooth tinctures or lotions1 and mouth washes4 ,a4 ,tooth ,pastes4 ,,tooth ,,soap 7,,savon ,,dentifrice74 ,soap #b lb4 ,talcum #b lb4 ,orris root #b lb4 ,sugar #a lb4 ,water #a lb4 ,oil of clove #aej grains4 ,oil of peppermint oz4 ,the soap should be good1 well-boiled tallow soap2 it is mixed with the other ingredients 7the sugar is to be previously dissolved in the water7 by thorough and prolonged stirring1 and is usually sold in shallow porcelain boxes4 ,the talcum or ,french chalk is a soft mineral with a fatty feel and is a common commercial article4 ,this tooth soap and other similar preparations for the care of the mouth are frequently colored rose red4 ,of course only harmless colors can be used4 ,the most appropriate are rose madder lake and carmine4 ,,tooth ,,paste 7,p,,te ,,dentifrice74 ,prepared chalk #b lb4 ,orris root #b lb4 ,sugar #b lb4 ,water #a lb4 ,madder lake to #a oz4 ,oil of lavender #aej grains4 ,oil of mace #aej grains4 ,oil of clove #aej grains4 ,oil of peppermint #a oz4 ,oil of rose #aej grains4 ,the prepared chalk used in this and many other articles is pure precipitated carbonate of lime4 ,it is made from pieces of white marble1 the offal from sculptors' workshops1 which are placed in wide porcelain or glass vessels and covered with hydrochloric acid1 when abundant vapors of carbonic acid are given off4 ,when the development of carbonic acid has ceased1 the liquid is allowed to stand at rest for several days with an excess of marble1 whereby all the iron oxide is separated4 ,this is necessary1 otherwise the preparation would not be white1 but yellowish4 ,the liquid is filtered and treated with a solution of carbonate of soda 7sal soda71 in water as long as any white precipitate results4 ,this precipitate is washed with pure water on a filter1 and when slowly dried it forms a fine1 brilliant white powder4 ,crystalline calcium chloride may also be purchased1 dissolved in water1 and treated with the soda solution to obtain the white precipitate4 ,the quantity of madder lake in the above formula is given within the limits to form light or dark red tooth paste4 ,b4 ,tooth ,powders4 ,,quinine ,,tooth ,,powder4 ,prepared chalk #b lb4 ,starch flour #a lb4 ,orris root1 powdered #a lb4 ,sulphate of quinine oz4 ,oil of peppermint #aej grains4 ,,cinchona ,,bark ,,tooth ,,powder4 ,cinchona bark1 powdered #a lb4 ,prepared chalk #b lb4 ,myrrh1 powdered #a lb4 ,orris root1 powdered #b lb4 ,cinnamon1 powdered #a lb4 ,carbonate of ammonia #b lb4 ,oil of clove oz4 ,,borated ,,tooth ,,powder4 ,borax1 powered #a lb4 ,prepared chalk #b lb4 ,myrrh1 powdered lb4 ,orris root1 powdered lb4 ,cinnamon1 powdered lb4 ,,hom,,opathic ,,chalk ,,tooth ,,powder4 ,prepared chalk #d lb4 ,starch flour #e oz4 ,orris root1 powdered lb4 ,oil of cinnamon #a oz4 ,,camphorated ,,chalk ,,tooth ,,powder4 ,prepared chalk #d lb4 ,camphor #a lb4 ,orris root1 powdered #b lb4 ,cinnamon1 powdered lb4 ,,charcoal ,,tooth ,,powder4 ,charcoal1 powdered #d lb4 ,cinchona bark1 powered #a lb4 ,oil of bergamot oz4 ,oil of lemon #a oz4 ,the charcoal must be derived from some soft wood2 willow1 poplar1 or buckthorn are among the most appropriate4 ,,cuttlefish-,,bone ,,tooth ,,powder4 ,prepared chalk #d lb4 ,cuttlefish-bone1 powdered #b lb4 ,orris root1 powdered #b lb4 ,oil of bergamot oz4 ,oil of lemon #a oz4 ,oil of neroli #aej grains4 ,oil of orange oz4 ,,cachous ,,aromatis,,es4 ,cachous are of a pillular composition1 and used not so much for the teeth as to impart fragrance to the breath4 ,they are made as follows3 ,gum acacia #a oz4 ,catechu1 powdered #b oz4 ,licorice juice #a lb4 ,cascarilla1 powdered oz4 ,mastic1 powdered oz4 ,orris root1 powdered oz4 ,oil of clove #ge grains4 ,oil of peppermint oz4 ,tincture of ambergris #ge grains4 ,tincture of musk4 #ge grains4 ,boil the solids with water until a pasty mass results which becomes firm on cooling4 ,the aromatics are then added1 and the mass is rolled into pills which are covered with genuine silver foil4 ,one of these pills suffices to remove the odor of tobacco1 etc41 completely from the mouth4 ,,pastilles ,,orientales4 ,sugar #h lb4 ,carmine #ge grains4 ,gum acacia #b lb4 ,musk #ae grains4 ,oil of rose #ge grains4 ,oil of vetiver #ae grains4 ,civet #ae grains4 ,tartaric acid #aej grains4 ,add the essential oils to the powdered solids1 mix intimately1 and add enough water to form a stiff dough1 to be made into pills which when chewed remove the odor of tobacco or other unpleasant odors4 ,rose ,tooth ,powder4 ,prepared chalk #d lb4 ,orris root1 powdered #b lb4 ,madder lake #a to #b oz4 ,oil of rose oz4 ,oil of santal #aej grains4 ,,sugar ,,tooth ,,powder4 ,bone-ash #d lb4 ,orris root1 powdered #d lb4 ,sugar1 powdered #b lb4 ,oil of bergamot oz4 ,oil of citron oz4 ,oil of mace #ge grains4 ,oil of neroli #ge grains4 ,oil of orange #aej grains4 ,oil of rosemary oz4 ,,chinese ,,tooth ,,powder4 ,pumice stone #d lb4 ,starch flour4 #a lb4 ,madder lake #a oz4 ,oil of peppermint oz4 ,the pumice stone must be ground into the finest powder and levigated1 before being mixed with the other ingredients4 ,note our remarks on pumice stone on page #beh4 ,c4 ,tooth ,tinctures 7,lotions7 and ,mouth ,washes 7,essences ,dentifrices74 ,,eau ,,anath,,rine4 ,guaiac wood #c oz4 ,myrrh #h oz4 ,cloves #e oz4 ,santal wood #e oz4 ,cinnamon #a oz4 ,alcohol #d qts4 ,rose water #b qts4 ,oil of mace4 #ge grains4 ,oil of rose #ge grains4 ,oil of cinnamon #ge grains4 ,the solids are macerated in the alcohol1 the essential oils are dissolved in the filtered liquid1 and lastly the rose water is added4 ,,eau ,,de ,,botot4 ,this tooth tincture1 which is quite a favorite1 is made in different ways2 the compositions made according to the ,french and ,english formulas are considered the best4 ,for this and many other tooth tinctures rhatany root is also frequently used4 ,rhatany root is derived from ,krameria triandra1 a ,south ,american plant4 ,its alcoholic tincture has a red color4 ,a4 ,,french ,,formula4 ,anise #aj oz4 ,cochineal oz4 ,mace #aej grains4 ,cloves4 #aej grains4 ,cinnamon #b oz4 ,alcohol #c qts4 ,oil of peppermint oz4 ,b4 ,,english ,,formula4 ,tincture of cedar #d qts4 ,tincture of myrrh #a qt4 ,tincture of rhatany #a qt4 ,oil of lavender oz4 ,oil of peppermint #a oz4 ,oil of rose #aej grains4 ,,borated ,,tooth ,,tincture4 ,borax #e oz4 ,myrrh #e oz4 ,red santal wood #e oz4 ,sugar #e oz4 ,cologne water #a qt4 ,alcohol #c qts4 ,water #c pints4 ,macerate the myrrh and santal wood in the alcohol1 then add the ,cologne water1 and lastly the sugar and borax dissolved in the water4 ,,camphorated ,,cologne ,,water4 ,camphor #a lb4 ,cologne water #d qts4 ,cologne water with myrrh is made in the same way1 by substituting a like weight of myrrh for the camphor4 ,,eau ,,de ,,milan4 ,kino #c oz4 ,civet #ge grains4 ,cinnamon oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,oil of bergamot #aej grains4 ,oil of lemon #aej grains4 ,oil of peppermint oz4 ,kino contains an astringent1 a variety of tannin1 and forms a dark red solution with alcohol4 ,,eau ,,de ,,mialhe4 ,tincture of benzoin oz4 ,tincture of tolu oz4 ,tincture of vanilla #aej grains4 ,kino #e oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,oil of anise4 #ge grains4 ,oil of peppermint oz4 ,oil of star-anise #ge grains4 ,oil of cinnamon #aej grains4 ,,myrrh ,,tooth ,,tincture4 ,mace #a oz4 ,myrrh4 #h oz4 ,cloves #h oz4 ,rhatany root4 #h oz4 ,alcohol #e qts4 ,,chloral ,,mouth ,,wash4 ,chloral hydrate #a oz4 ,water #aj oz4 ,a small quantity of this1 rinsed about the mouth1 removes every trace of bad odor4 ,,potassium ,,permanganate ,,water4 ,potassium permanganate #c oz4 ,distilled water #e qts4 ,potassium permanganate easily dissolves in distilled water and forms a beautiful violet solution1 a few drops of which are placed in a glass of water for use4 ,this salt is one of the most valuable articles for the teeth2 it has the property of readily giving off oxygen to organic substances and hence immediately destroys all odor in the mouth by oxidizing the organic bodies2 it also removes at once the odor of tobacco smoke4 ,after rinsing the mouth with this solution1 it is well to use some peppermint water for polishing the teeth4 ,this mouth wash leaves brown stains on linen and other materials as well as on the skin2 such spots can only be removed with acids 7hydrochloric1 oxalic1 etc474 ,,salicylated ,,tooth ,,tincture4 ,salicylic acid #a oz4 ,orange-flower water #cj grains4 ,water #b qts4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,oil of peppermint #cj grains4 ,salicylic acid is a substance possessing strong antiseptic properties2 therefore1 when this mouth wash is used after meals1 the occurrence of any bad odor1 even in persons with defective teeth1 is prevented and the progress of caries is arrested1 so that the acid may be considered one of the most valuable substances in hygienic perfumery4 ,dissolve the salicylic acid in the warm alcohol mixed with water2 add to the still warm solution the orange-flower water and the oil of peppermint dissolved in some of the alcohol4 ,,eau ,,de ,,salvia4 ,oil of lemon4 oz4 ,oil of sage #a oz4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,water #d qts4 ,the essential oils are dissolved in the alcohol1 and this solution mixed with the water4 ,,eau ,,de ,,violettes4 ,tincture of orris root #a qt4 ,rose water1 triple #a qt4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,oil of bitter almond #ge grains4 ,oil of neroli #cj grains4 ,,chapter ,,xxv4 ,,cosmetic ,,perfumery4 ,in cosmetic perfumery1 use is made chiefly of articles which serve to beautify some parts of the body by artificial means2 for instance1 to impart to pale cheeks a youthful freshness or to restore to prematurely gray hair its original appearance4 ,in so far as the former object is attained also by the preparations discussed in ,chapters ,,xxi41 ,,xxii41 ,,xxiii41 and ,,xxiv41 they likewise belong to the domain of cosmetic perfumery2 for health and beauty are inseparably connected4 ,though we have separated hygienic from cosmetic perfumery1 we have done so only in order to draw the line between preparations whose regular use really improves the bodily health1 and those which temporarily cover a defect of certain parts of the body4 ,cosmetics may also be divided into several groups--those for beautifying the skin1 as paints and toilet powders2 and those for the care of the hair4 ,the latter are subdivided into hair washes1 hair dyes1 so-called hair tonics1 depilatories1 and preparations for dressing the hair1 i4e41 for making it glossy and fixing it4 ,,chapter ,,xxvi4 ,,skin ,,cosmetics ,,and ,,face ,,lotions4 ,the use of skin cosmetics and paints is of remote antiquity1 but varies in different nations according to their civilization and their sense of beauty4 ,while among certain ,oriental nations dark blue rings around the eyes1 with yellow lips and nails1 pass for beautiful1 the ,european prizes only a white skin with a delicate tinge of red2 ,italian ladies in the middle ages used the dark red juice of the fruit of the deadly night-shade as a paint1 hence the name bella donna1 i4e41 beautiful lady4 7,according to ,matthiolus1 the name herba bella donna arose from the fact that ,italian ladies used a distilled water of the plant as a cosmetic47 ,owing to its marked effect on the eyes1 by dilating the pupil and increasing the lustre1 this juice also heightens the brilliancy of the eye1 though at the expense of its health4 ,while in the last century face-painting was a universal fashion1 it is nowadays resorted to only by persons whose skin requires some artificial help4 ,but nobody desires that the cosmetic should be perceptible on the skin4 ,hence it must be laid down as a rule that paints and all cosmetics should be so compounded that it is not easily possible to the observer to recognize that some artificial means has been employed for beautifying the skin4 ,we give below a number of such articles1 which come as near as possible to this ideal without injuring the skin4 ,as every skin cosmetic cannot but occlude the pores of the skin1 it should be removed as soon as possible--an advice to be heeded particularly by actors and actresses1 who must appear painted on the boards4 ,a4 ,white ,skin ,cosmetics4 ,,french ,,white 7,,blanc ,,fran,,ais74 ,talcum #d lb4 ,oil of lemon #ge grains4 ,oil of bergamot #ge grains4 ,the talcum must be reduced to the finest powder1 levigated1 dried1 and then perfumed4 ,owing to its unctuous nature1 it readily adheres to the skin1 and as it has no effect on it and does not change color1 it is the best of all powders4 ,,liquid ,,bismuth ,,white2 ,,pearl ,,white 7,,blanc ,,perl ,,liquide74 ,subnitrate of bismuth #a lb4 ,rose water #a qt4 ,orange-flower water #a qt4 ,when standing at rest1 the subnitrate of bismuth sinks to the bottom1 while the supernatant fluid becomes quite clear4 ,the bottle must therefore be vigorously shaken immediately before use4 ,when this preparation remains on the skin for some length of time1 it loses its pure white color and becomes yellow1 or darker1 through the gradual formation of a black sulphur compound4 ,,venetian ,,chalk 7,,craie ,,ven,,tienne74 is made exactly like the ,french white1 above2 the only difference between the two preparations is that the talcum for the latter is brought to a red heat1 which1 however1 causes it in part to lose the power of adhering to the skin4 ,b4 ,red ,skin ,cosmetics 7,rouges74 ,,rouge ,v,,getal ,,rose ,,liquide4 ,ammonia water #b oz4 ,carmine #a oz4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #b oz4 ,rose water #b qts4 ,this superior preparation1 which serves mainly for coloring the lips1 is made as follows3 ,reduce the carmine to powder2 macerate it in the ammonia in a three or four pint bottle for several days1 add the other ingredients1 and let it stand for a week under oft-repeated agitation4 ,at the end of that time the bottle is left undisturbed until the contents have become quite clear1 when they are carefully decanted and filled into bottles for sale4 ,in order to obtain this preparation in proper form1 only the finest carmine should be used4 ,that known in the market as 8,no4 #dj0 is the best4 ,this alone will produce a cosmetic that1 when brought in contact with the skin1 will give a vivid red color4 ,in place of carmine1 which requires the presence of ammonia if it is to remain in solution1 the anilin color known as eosine may be used4 ,of this1 very minute amounts will be sufficient to impart the proper tint4 ,it is impracticable to give exact proportions1 as these must be determined in each case by experiment4 ,it is necessary to avoid an excess4 ,the tint of a liquid colored by eosine may not appear deep1 and yet when it is applied to the skin a decidedly deeper stain than was desired may be produced4 ,hence each addition of fresh coloring matter must be carefully controlled by a practical test4 ,,rouge ,,en ,,feuilles4 ,cut from thick1 highly calendered paper circular disks about #b inches in diameter1 and cover them with a layer of carmine containing just enough gum acacia to make it adhere to the paper4 ,for use1 the leaf is breathed on1 a pledget of fine cotton is rubbed over it1 and the adhering color is transferred to the skin4 ,,rouge ,,en ,p,,te4 ,carmine #a oz4 ,talcum #ba oz4 ,gum acacia #a oz4 ,the ingredients in finest powder are mixed in a mortar by prolonged trituration1 then water is added in small portions to form a doughy mass to be filled into shallow porcelain dishes about the diameter of a dollar4 ,if the rouge is desired darker for the use of actors and dark-complexioned persons1 the proportion of carmine should be increased4 ,,rouge ,,en ,,tasses4 ,carthamin #a oz4 ,talcum powder #a lb4 ,gum acacia #a oz4 ,oil of rose #ae grains4 ,this rouge1 when dry1 has a greenish metallic lustre2 it is prepared and sold like rouge en pte4 ,,bleu ,v,,getal ,,pour ,,les ,,veines4 ,venetian chalk #a lb4 ,berlin blue #a oz4 ,gum acacia #a oz4 ,to the powdered solids add sufficient water to form a mass to be rolled into sticks4 ,for use1 a pencil is breathed on1 rubbed against the rough side of a piece of white glove leather1 and the veins are marked with the adhering color on the skin coated with pearl white4 ,of course1 some dexterity is required to make the veins appear natural by the use of this blue color4 ,,rouge ,,alloxane 7,,alloxan ,,red2 ,,murexide ,,paint74 ,cold cream #a lb4 ,alloxan #ge grains4 ,dissolve the alloxan in a little water and mix it intimately with any desired cold-cream4 ,the mixture is white1 but when transferred to the skin gradually becomes red4 ,the preparation sold in ,austria1 etc41 under the name of 8,schnuda0 is identical with this alloxan paint4 ,c4 ,face ,lotions4 ,the skin often contains spots with marked color which are more or less unsightly2 for instance1 freckles1 liver spots1 mother's marks 7nvi71 etc4 ,unfortunately we know of no remedy which radically removes them2 even chemical preparations with the most energetic effects1 which of course must never be employed owing to their destructive action on the skin1 cannot entirely do away with these dark spots which have their seat in the lower layers of the skin4 ,but the public demands preparations for the removal of freckles1 liver spots1 etc41 and--obtains them4 ,we subjoin the formulas for several of such secret remedies1 but declare emphatically that none of them will completely effect the desired result4 ,,freckle ,,milk 7,,lait ,,ant,,phelique74 ,camphor #a oz4 ,ammonium chloride oz4 ,corrosive sublimate #aej grains4 ,albumen #c oz4 ,rose water #b lb4 ,we call attention to the fact that the sublimate 7bichloride of mercury7 is very poisonous and must be used with the greatest care4 ,,freckle ,,lotion4 ,angelica root #a oz4 ,black hellebore root #a oz4 ,storax oz4 ,oil of bergamot #aej grains4 ,oil of citron #aej grains4 ,alcohol #b qts4 ,macerate for a week and filter4 ,,eau ,,lenticuleuse4 ,potassium carbonate #g oz4 ,sugar oz4 ,orange-flower water #b qts4 ,alcohol #g oz4 ,,lilionese ,i4 ,potassium carbonate #ad oz4 ,water #d lb4 ,rose water #ad oz4 ,alcohol #g oz4 ,oil of rose #aej grains4 ,oil of cinnamon #ge grains4 ,,lilionese ,,ii4 ,rose water #b qts4 ,orange-flower water #a qt4 ,glycerin #a lb4 ,potassium carbonate #c oz4 ,tincture of benzoin to #a oz4 ,add only enough of the alcoholic tincture of benzoin to render the liquid slightly opalescent or milky4 ,,lotion ,,for ,,chapped ,,skin4 ,glycerin #d lb4 ,water #a qt4 ,rose water #a qt4 ,color pale red with cochineal4 ,,eau ,,de ,,perles4 ,white soap #a lb4 ,dissolved in3 ,water #d qts4 ,glycerin #b lb4 ,add3 ,rose water #a qt4 ,tincture of musk #aej grains4 ,to be colored bluish with some indigo-carmin4 ,,teint ,,de ,,venus4 ,alcoholic soap solution #b qts4 ,carbonate of potassium #c oz4 ,extract of orange flower #c oz4 ,the soap solution is made as concentrated as possible1 and the entire fluid colored with cochineal2 in place of the extract of orange flower1 other essences or extracts may also be employed4 ,for use1 some of the liquid is poured into the wash water4 ,,pulch,,rine4 ,carbonate of potassium #ad oz4 ,water #d lb4 ,orange-flower water #b lb4 ,alcohol #c oz4 ,oil of neroli #aej grains4 ,tincture of vanilla oz4 ,the preceding preparations owe their activity merely to the presence of carbonate of potassium which forms an emulsion with the fat of the skin and thus resembles in its effects a mild soap4 ,the other ingredients only serve to render the composition fragrant4 ,d4 ,toilet ,powders4 ,toilet powders are used to impart whiteness and smoothness to the skin2 hence they are merely a kind of dry cosmetic which are applied by means of a powder puff or a hare's foot4 ,their main ingredients are starch and talcum powders1 perfumed and sometimes tinted a rose-red color4 ,it is immaterial what kind of starch is used2 rice1 wheat1 and potato starch are equally effective1 provided they are clear white and in the finest powder4 ,in some cases the bitter-almond bran remaining after the expression of the fixed oil and the preparation of the oil of bitter almond is likewise used for toilet powders4 ,the more thoroughly these powders are rubbed into the skin1 the whiter the latter becomes and the less easily can they be detected4 ,,white ,,toilet ,,powder4 ,fine levigated zinc white #a oz4 ,venetian talcum #a oz4 ,carbonate of magnesia #a oz4 ,oil of rose #bj drops4 ,oil of orris #bj drops4 ,mix intimately4 ,,pink ,,toilet ,,powder4 ,white toilet powder 7see above7 #e oz4 ,carmine #h grains4 ,,poudre ,,de ,,pistaches4 ,pistachio meal #aj lb4 ,talcum #aj lb4 ,oil of lavender oz4 ,oil of rose oz4 ,oil of cinnamon #ge grains4 ,the oil must have been completely extracted from the pistachio meal1 which is to be reduced to the finest powder4 ,,poudre ,,la ,,rose4 ,starch powder #bj lb4 ,carmine oz4 ,oil of rose oz4 ,oil of santal oz4 ,oil of vetiver #aej grains4 ,,poudre ,,la ,,violette4 ,starch powder #bj lb4 ,orris root1 in fine powder #aj lb4 ,oil of bergamot oz4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,oil of clove #aej grains4 ,oil of neroli #aej grains4 ,,poudre ,,blanche ,,surfine 7,,poudre ,,de ,,riz74 ,starch powder #bj lb4 ,subnitrate of bismuth #b lb4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,oil of rose #aej grains4 ,,blanc ,,de ,,perles ,,sec 7,,dry ,,pearl ,,white74 ,venetian chalk #bj lb4 ,subnitrate of bismuth #db oz4 ,zinc white #db oz4 ,oil of lemon #a oz4 ,,anti-,,odorin4 ,starch powder #a lb4 ,salicylic acid #aej grains4 ,this mixture1 which is best left unperfumed1 does excellent service when used to prevent an offensive odor in stockings or shoes4 ,the inside of the stockings is dusted with the powder1 and every week a teaspoonful is sprinkled into the shoes4 ,,skin ,,gloss4 ,carbonate of potassium #a oz4 ,powdered spermaceti #a oz4 ,starch powder #a lb4 ,benzoin oz4 ,oil of bitter almond #aej grains4 ,mix intimately and preserve in well-closed boxes4 ,for use1 stir some into water4 ,,kaloderm4 ,wheat flour #d lb4 ,almond bran #a lb4 ,orris root1 in fine powder #a lb4 ,extract of rose #a pint4 ,glycerin #f fl4 oz4 ,form into a dough which is thinned with water and painted on the skin4 ,,musk ,,paste 7,,for ,,washing ,,the ,,hands74 ,powdered white soap #b lb4 ,orris root1 in fine powder lb4 ,starch powder #a oz4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,oil of neroli #aej grains4 ,tincture of musk #a fl4 oz4 ,glycerin #ab fl4 oz4 ,rub the starch with the glycerin in a mortar until they are thoroughly mixed4 ,then transfer the mixture to a porcelain capsule and apply a heat gradually raised to #bhd ,f4 7and not exceeding #bij ,f471 stirring constantly1 until the starch granules are completely dissolved1 and a translucent jelly is formed4 ,then gradually incorporate with it the powdered soap and orris root1 and lastly the oils and tincture4 ,,chapter ,,xxvii4 ,,hair ,,cosmetics4 ,the number of preparations used for the care of the hair and beard is considerable4 ,unfortunately we are forced to admit that the majority of them1 especially those said to strengthen the scalp and to stimulate the growth of the hair1 are utterly inert4 ,thus far we know too little of the natural conditions of growth of the hair to enable us to compound remedies which would actively aid the efforts of nature in this direction4 ,in like manner we cannot speak with approval of the preparations used to color the hair1 either from a chemico-sanitary or from an sthetic standpoint2 many of them contain substances which positively injure the hair or impart to it an unnatural color which is detected at first sight4 ,but a well-made cosmetic should never produce this effect1 and nature must be faithfully imitated if the preparation is to deserve the name of a cosmetic4 ,with the so-called hair and beard elixirs almost incredible swindles are perpetrated2 the practical perfumer1 however1 cannot advise against the use of such worthless preparations among his goods1 as they are in daily demand4 ,this is the reason why we furnish the formulas for some of these secret preparations2 anybody at all familiar with the principles of chemistry and physiology will recognize their worthlessness from their composition4 ,the only articles of practical value are those intended for cleansing the hair1 for making it soft and glossy1 some of the hair dyes1 and the preparations for fixing the hair in certain positions4 ,a4 ,hair ,washes4 ,,eau ,d',,ath,,nes4 ,carbonate of potassium #b oz4 ,sassafras wood #h oz4 ,rose water #d qts4 ,orange-flower water #d qts4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,macerate the ingredients for one month4 ,the carbonate of potassium and the alcohol cleanse the hair and remove the fat4 ,after using this wash and drying the hair1 its fat and gloss should be restored by the application of a good pomade or hair oil4 ,,eau ,,glycerin,e ,,aux ,,cantharides4 ,ammonia water #c oz4 ,tincture of cantharides 7see below7 #c oz4 ,rosemary water #h qts4 ,glycerin #aj oz4 ,oil of rose oz4 ,the tincture of cantharides is made by macerating #a oz4 of powdered ,spanish flies 7,lytta vesicatoria7 in one quart of strong alcohol4 ,the caustic ammonia has a similar cleansing effect as the carbonate of potassium2 the glycerin makes the hair soft2 the entire preparation is a happy combination1 as it cleanses and softens the hair at the same time4 ,,eau ,,de ,,fleurs2 ,,extrait ,v,g,,tal4 ,extract of cassie #g oz4 ,extract of jasmine #g oz4 ,extract of orange flower #g oz4 ,tincture of tonka #c oz4 ,extract of tuberose #g oz4 ,tincture of vanilla #c oz4 ,rose water #b qts4 ,alcohol #b qts4 ,,eau ,,de ,,laurier4 ,carbonate of ammonium4 #e oz4 ,borax #e oz4 ,oil of sweet bay oz4 ,oil of rose #ge grains4 ,rose water #e qts4 ,,eau ,,de ,,romarin4 ,carbonate of potassium #a oz4 ,rosemary water #d qts4 ,essence of rose 7triple7 #a qt4 ,,eau ,,saponique4 ,rose water #e qts4 ,rondeletia perfume #aj oz4 ,saffron #ge grains4 ,soap #a oz4 ,alcohol #aj oz4 ,boil the finely divided soap and the saffron with some distilled water until the soap is completely dissolved1 add the other ingredients1 mix intimately1 and let stand for some days to allow the coarser particles of saffron to settle4 ,this preparation has a particularly handsome appearance2 in cut-glass bottles it shows a peculiar opalescence or iridescence2 in transmitted light it represents an almost perfectly transparent1 saffron-yellow liquid4 ,,eau ,,victoria4 ,ammonia water #a oz4 ,expressed oil of almond #a oz4 ,oil of mace #ge grains4 ,oil of nutmeg #ge grains4 ,essence of rosemary #ba oz4 ,rose water #d lb4 ,mix the ingredients1 except the rose water1 by vigorous agitation until a kind of emulsion results4 ,then add the rose water in small portions1 shaking after each addition4 ,,eau ,,de ,,roses4 ,rose water #e qts4 ,oil of rose #ge grains4 ,dissolve in ,alcohol #c oz4 ,and add ,tincture of vanilla #a oz4 ,tincture of civet #aej grains4 ,b4 ,hair ,tonics4 ,,hair ,,restorer4 ,tincture of cantharides 7see above1 page #bha7 #a oz4 ,tincture of nut-galls #a oz4 ,extract of musk #aej grains4 ,carmine #ge grains4 ,alcohol #c oz4 ,rose water #a qt4 ,tincture of nut-galls is made by macerating #c oz4 of powdered nut-galls in one quart of alcohol4 ,the tincture of cinchona in the following formula is prepared in the same manner4 ,,tanno-,,quinine ,,hair ,,restorer4 ,tincture of cinchona #a oz4 ,tincture of nut-galls #a oz4 ,carmine #aej grains4 ,oil of neroli #ge grains4 ,oil of nutmeg #ge grains4 ,alcohol #c oz4 ,rose water #a qt4 ,orange-flower water #a qt4 ,,baume ,,de ,,milan ,,pour ,,les ,,cheveux4 ,lard #a lb4 ,expressed oil of almond #a lb4 ,spermaceti #a oz4 ,carmine #aej grains4 ,tincture of cantharides oz4 ,tincture of storax #a oz4 ,tincture of tolu #a oz4 ,,beard ,,producer4 ,lard #a lb4 ,expressed oil of almond #a lb4 ,spermaceti oz4 ,cantharides oz4 ,carmine #aej grains4 ,oil of bergamot #ge grains4 ,oil of lavender #ge grains4 ,oil of santal #ge grains4 ,rub the cantharides with the carmine to the finest possible powder2 add this with the essential oils to the other ingredients4 ,formulas for similar hair tonics might be given to the number of several hundreds2 but we repeat what we have said above--they do not produce the desired result4 ,while the well-known bay rum is used more as a face lotion or refreshing skin tonic1 particularly after shaving1 or when perspiring in hot weather1 yet it is also often used as a wash for the scalp1 and is popularly believed to stimulate the growth of hair1 which is in reality not the case4 ,we shall therefore give a formula for its preparation here3 ,,bay ,,rum4 ,oil of bay 7from ,myrcia acris7 #bdj grains4 ,oil of orange 7bigarade7 #af grains4 ,oil of ,pimenta #af grains4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,water #be fl4 oz4 ,dissolve the oils in the alcohol and add the water4 ,mix the liquid with about #b oz4 of precipitated phosphate of lime1 and filter4 ,it will improve by age4 ,genuine bay rum is imported from the ,west ,indies 7,st4 ,thomas1 etc471 where a crude kind of alcohol1 obtained in connection with the manufacture of rum from molasses1 is distilled with the fresh leaves of the bay-tree 7,myrcia acris74 ,the oil of bay obtained from this must not be confounded with the oil of sweet bay4 ,the latter1 as it appears in commerce1 is a crude mixture of a fixed with a volatile oil4 ,,chapter ,,xxviii4 ,,hair ,,dyes ,,and ,,depilatories4 ,the custom of dyeing the hair is universal in the ,orient2 in the ,occident1 however1 hair dyes are also frequently used1 namely1 to hide the grayness of the hair1 sometimes to give the hair a preferred color4 ,hair dyes1 which are very numerous1 may be divided into groups--those containing the dye-stuff ready formed1 and those in which it is produced in the hair by some chemical process4 ,some hair dyes contain substances which in their nature are decidedly injurious to the hair2 such articles1 of course1 must be dispensed with because1 if frequently employed1 they would certainly lead to baldness4 ,we shall return to this subject in connection with the several preparations4 ,regarding the use of hair dyes1 especially those consisting of two separate portions1 we may state that it is necessary to remove the fat from the hair before applying the dye1 as the chemicals in question do not adhere well to fat4 ,the hair should be thoroughly washed once or twice with soap1 and dyed when nearly dry4 ,when dyeing the hair the preparations should first be diluted2 if the color is not deep enough1 the process is repeated4 ,if the preparation is used at once in a concentrated form1 a color may result which has no resemblance to any natural tint2 hair meant to be black may assume a metallic bluish-black gloss4 ,a4 ,simple ,hair ,dyes4 ,,lead ,,hair ,,dye4 ,oxide of lead #d lb4 ,quicklime #a lb4 ,calcined magnesia #a lb4 ,the ingredients are rubbed to a very fine powder and for use are mixed with water1 applied to the hair1 and left there until the desired tint--light brown to black--is obtained1 from four to twelve hours1 when the powder is removed by washing4 ,the lime by its caustic effect acts destructively on the horny substance of the hair4 ,moreover1 all lead preparations without exception are very injurious to the organism2 hence this hair dye is to be rejected1 especially as there are harmless preparations which produce the same effect4 ,,karsi 7,,teinture ,,orientale74 ,ambergris #ge grains4 ,nut-galls #d lb4 ,iron filings #a oz4 ,copper filings #cj grains4 ,musk #cj grains4 ,this preparation1 which really comes from the ,orient1 is made as follows3 ,reduce the nut-galls to a very fine powder and roast them in an iron pan under continual stirring until they have become dark brown or almost black4 ,this powder is triturated with the metals in fine powder and the aromatics1 and preserved in a moist place4 ,for use1 some of the powder is moistened in the palm of the hand and vigorously rubbed into the hair2 after a few days it assumes a deep black1 natural color4 ,the roasting changes the tannin bodies contained in the galls into gallic and pyrogallic acids which form deep black combinations with the metals1 and themselves are easily transformed into brownish-black substances4 ,,kohol 7,,teinture ,,chinoise74 ,gum arabic #a oz4 ,india ink #a oz4 ,rose water #a qt4 ,powder the ink and the gum1 and triturate small quantities of the powder with rose water until a uniform black liquid results1 which must be free from granules4 ,this liquid is placed in a bottle and the rest of the rose water added4 ,kohol can be used only by persons with black hair1 and is employed particularly for dyeing the eyebrows4 ,as the coloring matter of this preparation consists of carbon in a state of fine division1 the dye is perfectly harmless4 ,,vegetable ,,dye4 ,silver nitrate #b oz4 ,distilled water #a qt4 ,this hair dye produces a deep black color1 but cannot be recommended1 as it is injurious to the hair4 ,its full effects appear only after the lapse of some hours4 ,,potassium ,,permanganate4 ,potassium permanganate #e oz4 ,distilled water #b qts4 ,crystalline potassium permanganate is soluble in water1 forming a dark violet solution4 ,when brought in contact with an organic substance--paper1 linen1 skin1 horn1 hair--it is rapidly decolored and imparts to the substances named a brown tint due to hydrated oxide of manganese4 ,the hair is washed1 as stated above1 to remove the fat1 and the dilute solution applied with a soft brush2 the color is produced at once and according to the degree of dilution this innocuous preparation can be made to give any desired color from blond to very dark brown4 ,of course1 this preparation can be used for the beard as well as the hair4 ,all the hair dyes here and elsewhere given stain the skin as well wherever they come in contact with it2 hence care should be taken to protect the skin during their application4 ,b4 ,double ,hair ,dyes4 ,,silver ,,hair ,,dyes4 ,this and similar hair dyes consist of two preparations1 preserved in bottles ,i4 and ,,ii42 the latter1 containing the silver solution1 should be of dark amber-colored or black glass1 as the silver salts are decomposed by light4 ,it is utterly useless to employ blue glass for this purpose1 as this admits the chemical rays of light as easily as flint glass4 ,for use1 some of the liquid from bottle ,i4 is poured into a cup and the hair is moistened with it by means of a soft brush4 ,the liquid from bottle ,,ii4 is poured into a second cup and applied with another brush4 ,,brown ,,dye4 ,i4 7,in ,white ,bottle47 ,sulphide of potassium #g oz4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,,ii4 7,in ,dark ,bottle47 ,silver nitrate #d oz4 ,distilled water #a qt4 ,,black ,,dye4 ,i4 7,in ,white ,bottle47 ,sulphide of potassium lb4 ,alcohol #a qt4 ,,ii4 7,in ,dark ,bottle47 ,silver nitrate #e oz4 ,distilled water #a qt4 ,the sulphide of potassium 7liver of sulphur7 appears in fragments of a liver-brown mass which readily dissolves in water4 ,the solution must be filtered before being filled into bottles for sale1 and1 as it becomes turbid in the air1 kept in well-closed vessels4 ,when the two solutions are brought together1 black sulphide of silver results and darkens the hair4 ,after the use of this preparation a disagreeable odor of rotten eggs adheres to the hair1 but can be easily removed by washing1 especially with one of the previously mentioned hair washes4 ,the silver hair dye will be still better if the liquid contained in bottle ,,ii4 is made by dropping into the solution1 under continual stirring1 ammonia water1 until the precipitate first formed is again dissolved4 ,,melanog,,ne4 ,i4 7,in ,dark ,bottle47 ,silver nitrate #aej grains4 ,distilled water #b oz4 ,ammonia water #a oz4 ,,ii4 7,in ,white ,bottle47 ,pyrogallic acid #ae grains4 ,alcohol of #dj #a pint4 ,,tannin ,,hair ,,dye4 ,i4 7,in ,white ,bottle47 ,powdered nut-galls #ad oz4 ,water #a pint4 ,rose water #a pint4 ,boil the nut-galls in the water1 strain the boiling liquid through a thick cloth into the rose water1 and fill the still hot mixture into bottles which must be immediately closed4 7,it is essential that the liquid be hot during the filling1 to guard against the development of mould47 ,,ii4 7,in ,dark ,bottle47 ,silver nitrate #e oz4 ,distilled water #a qt4 ,add ammonia water to the silver solution until the precipitate first formed is again dissolved4 ,,eau ,d',,afrique4 ,i4 7,in ,dark ,bottle47 ,silver nitrate #de grains4 ,distilled water #c oz4 ,,ii4 7,in ,white ,bottle47 ,sulphide of sodium #abj grains4 ,distilled water #c oz4 ,,crinochrom4 ,i4 7,in ,white ,bottle47 ,pyrogallic acid #aej grains4 ,distilled water #f oz4 ,alcohol #e oz4 ,,ii4 7,in ,dark ,bottle47 ,silver nitrate #ahj grains4 ,ammonia water #b oz4 ,distilled water #aj oz4 ,,copper ,,hair ,,dye4 ,i4 7,in ,white ,bottle47 ,ferrocyanide of potassium #g oz4 ,distilled water #a qt4 ,,ii4 7,in ,dark ,bottle47 ,sulphate of copper #g oz4 ,distilled water #a qt4 ,add ammonia water to the copper solution until the light blue precipitate first formed again dissolves to a rich1 dark blue liquid4 ,this hair dye gives a dark brown color4 ,,eau ,,de ,,fontaine ,,de ,,jouvence1 also called ,auricome and ,golden ,hair ,water1 is no dye1 but a bleaching agent which changes dark hair to a light blond or golden-yellow color4 ,the preparation consists of peroxide of hydrogen1 a substance possessing marked bleaching properties4 ,peroxide of hydrogen1 or hydrogen dioxide1 is at the present time made on a large scale by many manufacturers1 and readily obtainable in the market4 ,it would therefore scarcely pay any one to prepare it himself unless he were out of reach of the usual channels of trade1 so that he could not obtain the preparation in a fresh state4 ,nevertheless it may be useful to state how it is made4 ,barium dioxide 7or peroxide71 which is a regular article of commerce1 and is a stable compound which will keep for any length of time if kept in tightly closed bottles1 is treated with water until the dioxide forms with it a thin1 smooth milk4 ,this is gradually added to dilute sulphuric acid1 cooled with ice or kept otherwise as cold as possible1 until the sulphuric acid is almost entirely neutralized4 ,the solution is then allowed to settle and the clear liquid drawn off4 ,for bleaching purposes1 this is pure enough4 ,only it must be ascertained that the amount of free acid present1 without which the hydrogen dioxide does not keep well1 is only small4 ,other acids can be used besides sulphuric1 but the latter is the most convenient4 ,if an alkali is added to hydrogen dioxide so that the reaction becomes alkaline1 it will decompose very rapidly4 ,even under the most favorable circumstances 7when acid1 and kept in a cool place7 it will gradually deteriorate1 and finally be entirely converted into oxygen gas1 which escapes1 and plain water4 ,peroxide or dioxide of hydrogen1 when applied to the hair as a bleaching agent1 must be used in a dilute condition at first4 ,those who use it for the first time should always make preliminary trials with the liquid upon odd bunches of hair 7such as may at any time be procured at hair-dressers' shops7 resembling that which is to be bleached1 before actually applying it to the latter4 ,the hair to be bleached is deprived of fat by washing with soap solution1 the soap is washed out with water1 and the peroxide of hydrogen applied4 ,,whisker ,,dye4 ,i4 ,acetate of lead #a oz4 ,distilled water #a pint4 ,,ii4 ,caustic potassa oz4 ,distilled water #a qt4 ,dissolve the acetate of lead 78sugar of lead07 in the warm water1 filter the solution1 and add ammonia water until a precipitate ceases to form4 ,collect the precipitate on a filter1 wash it by pouring distilled water over it eight or ten times1 and while still moist introduce it into solution ,,ii4 ,stir repeatedly1 and after twelve hours leave the vessel at rest until the solution has become clear4 ,then decant it from the sediment1 which may be treated a second time with solution ,,ii4 ,for use1 the beard is washed with soap1 and combed with a fine rubber comb dipped in the solution4 ,c4 ,depilatories4 ,combinations of sulphur with the alkaline metals calcium1 barium1 and strontium rapidly destroy the hair2 for this reason tanners use the 8gas lime0 from gas works1 which contains calcium sulphide1 for removing the hair from hides4 ,all the depilatories used cosmetically1 even rhusma employed in the ,orient for removing the beard1 owe their activity to the presence of calcium sulphide4 ,,calcium ,,sulphide has usually been lauded as a perfectly harmless depilatory4 ,this is a great mistake1 however1 since it has often done serious harm1 through careless application by persons unfamiliar with its caustic and corrosive effects4 ,it is absolutely necessary to protect the skin against its action2 otherwise superficial irritation1 or even destruction of the skin may result4 ,calcium sulphide cannot be made by the action of sulphuretted hydrogen upon lime4 ,it is usually made by heating at a low red heat1 in a securely closed crucible1 an intimate mixture of #ajj parts of finely powdered quicklime with #ij parts of precipitated sulphur4 ,mix together3 ,calcium sulphide #d oz4 ,sugar #b oz4 ,water #b oz4 ,starch powder #b oz4 ,oil of lemon #cj grains4 ,oil of peppermint #aj grains4 ,the resulting mass must be filled at once into an air-tight jar1 as the calcium sulphide is decomposed in the atmosphere4 ,for use1 some of the mass is moistened with water1 painted on the skin1 and washed off with water after thirty to forty-five minutes4 ,this and all other depilatories act only temporarily1 that is1 they destroy only the hair projecting above the surface without killing the hair bulbs2 after some time the hair grows again and the preparation must be reapplied4 ,,barium ,,sulphide1 which is likewise used as a depilatory1 is made by heating barium sulphate with charcoal1 extracting the residue with water1 and mixing the resulting product with starch paste4 ,in its effects barium sulphide equals the preceding preparation1 but it decomposes more readily4 ,,depilatory ,,paste4 ,powdered caustic lime #b lb4 ,starch powder #b lb4 ,sodium sulphide #ba oz4 ,sodium sulphide is made by saturating strong caustic soda solution with sulphuretted hydrogen4 ,the other ingredients are added to the solution of sodium sulphide4 ,,rhusma is a depilatory made by mixing powdered quicklime 7unslaked7 with orpiment 7yellow sulphide of arsenic74 ,take of3 ,quicklime #d lb4 ,orpiment #aj oz4 ,mix intimately and preserve the powder in tightly closed vessels4 ,for use1 take some of the powder1 reduce it to a thin paste with water1 and apply it to the place upon which the hairs are to be destroyed4 ,owing to its poisonousness and the destructive effects of the caustic lime on the skin1 this preparation should never be employed in cosmetic perfumery4 ,,chapter ,,xxix4 ,,wax ,,pomades1 ,,bandolines1 ,,and ,,brilliantines4 ,the so-called wax pomades1 stick pomatum1 and bandolines serve to stiffen the hair and are frequently employed by hair dressers4 ,the former two articles possess some adhesive power by which they fasten the hair together2 bandolines are mucilaginous fluids which generally contain bassorin 7or vegetable mucilage present in tragacanth71 quince seeds1 etc4 ,a4 ,wax ,pomades4 ,,stick ,,pomatum4 ,this is usually formed into oval or round sticks which are wrapped in tin foil4 ,they are colored and perfumed as desired4 ,the ordinary varieties are3 white1 for light blond hair1 which is left uncolored2 pink1 colored with carmine2 brown1 colored with umber2 and black1 colored with bone black4 ,the coloring matters are always rubbed up with oil4 ,red pomatum may be colored with alkanet root1 which is macerated for some time with the melted fat4 ,the base of these preparations consists of3 ,lard #d lb4 ,tallow #ab lb4 ,wax #f lb4 ,the mass may be made harder or softer by increasing or diminishing the wax4 ,the perfumes generally used are oils of bergamot1 lemon1 clove1 and thyme1 with an addition of some ,peru balsam4 ,b4 ,beard ,wax4 ,,beard ,,wax 7,,cire ,,moustaches74 ,turpentine #b lb4 ,expressed oil of almond #b lb4 ,wax #f lb4 ,violet pomade #b lb4 ,peru balsam #a lb4 ,oil of clove #a oz4 ,oil of santal oz4 ,oil of cinnamon oz4 ,,hungarian ,,beard ,,wax 7,,cire ,,moustache ,,hongroise47 ,castile soap1 powdered #c oz4 ,mucilage of acacia #aj oz4 ,white wax #i oz4 ,glycerin #c oz4 ,oil of bergamot #bj drops4 ,oil of lemon #aj drops4 ,oil of rose #aj drops4 ,rub the powdered soap with the mucilage1 previously diluted with nine ounces of water1 then add the wax and glycerin1 and heat the mass on a water-bath1 stirring constantly1 until it becomes homogeneous4 ,lastly add the oils1 and pour the mass into suitable moulds4 ,for brown or black wax the corresponding color is added4 ,the mass is formed into sticks the thickness of a lead pencil4 ,c4 ,bandolines4 ,,bandoline ,,aux ,,amandes4 ,tragacanth #ad oz4 ,rose water #h qts4 ,oil of bitter almond oz4 ,crush the tragacanth1 place it in the rose water1 and leave it at rest in a warm spot1 stirring occasionally1 until the tragacanth has swollen to a slimy mass4 ,press it first through a coarse and then through a finer cloth1 add a little carmine and the oil of bitter almond4 ,,bandoline ,,la ,,rose4 ,this is made like the preceding1 only substituting #a oz4 of oil of rose for the oil of bitter almond4 ,other varieties may be produced by the use of different odors4 ,d4 ,brillantines4 ,under various names preparations are placed on the market which render the hair both soft and glossy4 ,the chief constituent of all these articles is glycerin which is perfumed according to taste and stained reddish or violet4 ,as many aniline colors easily dissolve in glycerin1 they are generally used for this purpose4 ,formerly1 before glycerin was obtainable in sufficient purity1 brillantines were chiefly made of castor oil dissolved in alcohol1 but aside from the fact that glycerin is cheaper than castor oil with alcohol1 the former is preferable1 as alcohol injures the hair4 ,,brillantine4 ,glycerin #h lb4 ,extract of jasmine 7or other flower7 #b qts4 ,,ol,,olisse4 ,glycerin #d lb4 ,castor oil #d lb4 ,oil of bergamot oz4 ,oil of lemon oz4 ,oil of neroli #aej grains4 ,,chapter ,,xxx4 ,,the ,,colors ,,used ,,in ,,perfumery4 ,in perfumes in which next to the odor1 the appearance is of importance1 the colors play a prominent part4 ,in handkerchief perfumes1 any accidental color present is an obstacle1 as it would cause stains on the material4 ,hence the aim is to obtain the perfumes colorless or--a highly prized quality in fine articles--they receive a pale green color which disappears on drying4 ,extract of cassie possesses this color1 and in many cases this extract is added to perfumes for the purpose of giving them this favorite color4 ,regarding the colors employed for other articles--emulsions1 pomades1 soaps1 etc4--it may be stated as a general rule that a preparation named after a certain flower must possess the color of the latter4 ,hence all perfumes named after the rose should be rose red2 violet perfumes1 violet2 those bearing the name of the lily or white rose must be colorless1 etc4 ,the best for articles containing alcohol or glycerin are the aniline colors1 both on account of their beautiful appearance and their extraordinary staining power4 ,but an insurmountable obstacle is met with in their use for articles containing animal or vegetable fats which rapidly destroy many aniline colors4 ,when a rose pomade is colored with aniline red1 the fine delicate tint hardly lasts three or four weeks and changes into dirty gray4 ,the same is true of aniline violet in violet pomade1 etc4 ,therefore1 articles containing fat must receive other dye-stuffs1 and in the following pages we briefly enumerate those we have found most appropriate2 but it must be observed that all poisonous dyes must be absolutely excluded4 ,commercial aniline colors formerly often contained arsenic2 at the present time other processes are usually employed for their preparation1 not involving the employment of arsenious acid4 ,,yellow ,,colors4 ,saffron4 ,the stigmata of ,crocus sativus contain a bright yellow or orange yellow coloring matter which is easily extracted by alcohol1 petroleum ether1 or fat4 ,we prefer petroleum ether in which the finely powdered saffron is macerated1 the greater portion of the solvent being distilled off1 and the rest of the solution is allowed to evaporate1 when the pure coloring matter is left and can be easily mixed with fat4 ,the coloring matter may also be obtained by macerating the saffron in melted lard or in olive oil4 ,jonquille ,pomade4 ,genuine jonquille pomade1 from ,narcissus ,jonquilla1 has a handsome yellow color which is derived from the dark yellow flowers2 for this reason small quantities of jonquille pomade are sometimes used for coloring pomades for the hair4 ,curcuma or ,turmeric4 ,curcuma or turmeric root contains a very beautiful yellow coloring matter which is easily extracted by alcohol or petroleum ether4 ,we prepare it in the same manner as stated under the head of saffron4 ,curcuma color cannot be used for articles containing free alkali1 which changes it to brown4 ,palm ,oil4 has naturally a fine yellow color1 which it imparts also to soaps prepared from it2 but the color fades completely when the wet soap is exposed to the air4 ,,red ,,colors4 ,carmine4 ,this magnificent1 though very expensive color is obtained from the cochineal insect1 ,coccus cacti4 ,if good carmine is not available1 a substitute may be made1 for the purpose of coloring perfumery articles1 by powdering cochineal1 treating it with dilute caustic ammonia1 and1 after adding some alum solution1 exposing it to the air and direct sunlight1 when the coloring matter separates in handsome red flakes1 which are collected and dried4 ,carthamin ,red4 ,safflower1 the blossoms of ,carthamus tinctorius1 contains two coloring matters1 yellow and red4 ,the former is extracted with water from the dried flowers1 and the residue is treated with a weak soda solution which dissolves the red coloring matter4 ,when this solution is gradually diluted with acetic acid1 the dye is precipitated1 and after drying forms a mass with a greenish metallic lustre4 ,this1 when reduced to powder1 is used for rouge en feuilles or rouge en tasses4 ,this coloring matter can also be prepared by introducing into the soda solution some clean white cotton on which the color is precipitated and can then be extracted with alcohol4 ,alkanet4 ,this root1 which is readily obtained in the market1 contains a beautiful red coloring matter which can be extracted with petroleum ether1 but is also easily soluble in fats 7melted lard or warm oil74 ,even small amounts of it produce a handsome rose red and larger quantities a dark purple4 ,for pomades1 hair oils1 and emulsions alkanet root is the best coloring matter1 as it stains them rapidly1 is lasting1 and cheap4 ,rhatany4 ,rhatany root furnishes a reddish-brown coloring matter which is soluble in alcohol and is extracted with it from the comminuted root1 especially for tooth tinctures and mouth washes4 ,for the same purpose use may also be made of red santal wood and ,pernambuco wood which likewise yield to alcohol1 besides astringents1 beautiful colors which are very suitable for such preparations4 ,,green ,,colors4 ,chlorophyll4 ,the green coloring matter of leaves is easily extracted from them1 when bruised1 with alcohol1 and is left behind after the evaporation of the solvent4 ,some powders which are to have a green color are mixed directly with dried and finely divided bright green leaves such as spinach1 celery1 parsley leaves1 etc4 ,for soap it is customary to use a mixture of yellow and blue which together produce a green color4 ,take a yellow soap1 melt it1 and add to it the finest powder of smalt or ultramarine until the desired tint is obtained4 ,indigo-carmine cannot be used1 as it would impart a blue color to the skin4 ,,blue ,,colors4 ,for many preparations smalt or ultramarine is employed1 but these colors are insoluble4 ,the only soluble blue colors are aniline blue and indigo-carmine2 the latter has a beautiful and intense color1 but is suitable only for pomades and not for soaps because1 as stated above1 it would stain the skin4 ,,violet is produced by a mixture of red and blue in due proportions4 ,,brown is produced by caramel1 which is made by heating sugar in an iron pot until it changes into a deep black mass which is brown only in thin threads4 ,this color dissolves easily in water 7not in alcohol7 and is very suitable for soaps4 ,,black is produced by finely divided vegetable or bone black4 ,liquids are colored with ,india ink which remains suspended for a long time owing to the fine division of the carbon4 ,,chapter ,,xxxi4 ,,the ,,utensils ,,used ,,in ,,the ,,toilet4 ,in the toilet1 besides combs and hair brushes1 use is made of powder puffs1 tooth brushes1 and bath sponges4 ,powder puffs are made from swan skins1 but should be used rather for the even division of the powder or paint than for its application4 ,for the latter purpose a piece of soft glove or chamois leather is best4 ,the commercial tooth brushes are almost without exception objectionable owing to the stiffness of the bristles4 ,a suitable tooth brush should be made of very soft1 flexible bristles1 lest it wear away the enamel4 ,particular attention should be devoted to bath sponges4 ,their value is proportionate to the fineness of the pores1 their softness and elasticity1 and their spherical shape4 ,crude sponges are best cleansed by being placed in dilute hydrochloric acid which dissolves the calcareous particles adhering to them4 ,they are bleached as follows4 ,free them as far as possible from sand and other foreign matters4 ,then wash them thoroughly with water1 and press them4 ,next introduce them into a solution of permanganate of potassium containing one ounce of the salt in a gallon2 leave them in this liquid two or three minutes2 then take them out1 express the liquid 7which can be several times used over again71 wash them with water until no more violet-tinted liquid runs from them1 and then immerse them in a solution of one part of hyposulphite of sodium in twenty parts of water1 to which immediately before dipping the sponges one part of hydrochloric acid has been added4 ,when the sponge's are white1 remove them and wash them thoroughly with water4 ,after prolonged use1 bath sponges lose their elasticity and softness4 ,these properties can be restored by dipping the sponges into a mixture of one part by measure of glycerin and eight parts of water1 pressing out the excess of the liquid and allowing them to dry4 ,the small quantity of glycerin which they contain prevents their hardening4 ,,index4 la mode perfume1 #ahf ,absorption1 #aja ,acacia farnesiana1 #bf ,acetic ether1 #hj ,acid1 acetic1 #gf benzoic1 #gd carbonic1 apparatus1 #aab carbonic1 for absorption of odors1 #ajb perfumes1 #bjb pyrogallic1 #hd salicylic1 preservation of fats by1 #gi ,acorus ,calamus1 #ej ,adulteration of essential oils with alcohol1 #add of essential oils with fixed oils1 #add of essential oils with other essential oils1 #adc of essential oils with paraffin1 spermaceti1 or wax1 #ade ,adulterations of essential oils and their recognition1 #aci ,alcohol1 #fc absolute1 manufacture of1 #fh amyl1 #ga percentage tables of1 #gj source of1 influence on perfumes1 #gb ,alcoholometer1 ,tralles'1 #fi ,alkanet1 #bii ,alloxan1 #gc1 #bgd ,allspice1 #ba ,allspice1 essence of1 #aei ,almond and honey paste1 #bcd balls1 #bdd cold-cream1 #bdc cream1 #bcj meal1 #bcd paste1 simple1 #bcc ,almonds1 bitter1 #bd sweet1 #ej ,aloysia citriodora1 #ed ,amandes amres1 #bd ,amandes douces1 #ej ,amandine1 #bcj ,ambergris1 #eg tincture of1 #aea ,ambra grisea1 #eg ,ammonia1 #gc carbonate of1 #gd ,ammoniacal perfumes1 #aii ,amygdala amara1 #bd dulcis1 #ej ,amyl alcohol1 #ga ,ananas1 #dd ,ancients1 perfumery among the1 #b ,andropogon citratus1 #cj1 #ce laniger1 #cj muricatus1 #cj1 #ed ,nardus1 #bi ,schoenanthus1 #cj ,aneth1 #ca ,anethum graveolens1 #ca ,animal substances used in perfumery1 #eg ,anise1 #ba ,anti-,odorin1 #bgh ,apple ether1 #ha ,aromatic substances1 division of1 according to their origin1 #h substances in general1 #f substances1 relative strength of1 #g substances1 special characteristics of1 #aah substances1 vegetable1 chemical constitution of1 #ae substances1 vegetable1 employed in perfumery1 #bj vinegar1 #bjc waters1 #aac1 #afg ,aspic1 #ce ,attar of rose1 #acc ,auricome1 #bia ,badiane1 #dh ,baguettes encensoires1 #baf ,baisers du printemps1 #agj ,balm1 #bb ,balsamodendron ,kafal1 #da ,myrrha1 #ci ,balsamum peruvianum1 #dc tolutanum1 #ea ,bandolines1 #bif ,barium sulphide1 #bic ,baume de ,milan pour les cheveux1 #bhc du ,prou1 #dc de ,tolou1 #ea ,bay rum1 #bhd sweet1 #bb ,west ,indian1 #bb ,beard producer1 #bhd wax1 #bie ,bear's-grease pomade1 #bej ,beef-marrow pomade1 #bea ,benjoin1 #bc ,benzene1 #ff ,benzin1 #ff ,benzoated oil1 #bee ,benzoic acid1 #gd acid1 sublimed1 manufacture of1 #ge ,benzoin1 #bc and benzoic acid1 use of1 for preventing rancidity of fats1 #gi pomade1 #bdh tincture of1 #aea ,benzol1 #ff ,bergamot1 #bd essence of1 #aeb ,bisamkrner1 #ch ,bismuth1 subnitrate of1 #hf ,bismuth white1 #hf1 #bga ,bisulphide of carbon1 #ff ,bitter almond1 essence of1 #aeb almond milk1 #bch almonds1 #bd ,black color1 #cja ,blanc de bismuth1 #hf de perles1 #hf1 #bgh franais1 #bga perle liquide1 #bga ,bleu vgetal pour les veines1 #bgc ,blossom pomade1 #bej ,blue colors1 #cjj ,bois de camphre1 #be de cdre1 #bg de rose1 #de ,borated tooth powder1 #bfb tooth tincture1 #bff ,borax1 #ge ,bouquet la marchale1 #ahf cosmopolite1 #ahj court1 #agc d',andorre1 #aga de ,chypre1 #agb de fleurs1 #agb de flore1 #agf de la cour1 #aga de l',alhambra1 #afi de l'amour1 #afi de ,stamboul1 #aid d',esterhazy1 #agc de ,virginie1 #aie des chasseurs1 #aga des dlices1 #agb d',irlande1 #agg du ,bosphore1 #aga du ,japon1 #agh heliotrope1 #aid leap-year1 #ahd ,royal ,horse-,guard's1 #agg ,bouquets1 manufacture of1 #afg ,brillantines1 #bif ,bromelia ,ananas1 #dd ,brown color1 #cja ,bruges ribbons1 #bai ,buckingham flowers1 #agj ,cachous aromatises1 #bfc ,cajuput leaves1 #be ,calamus1 essence of1 #aeb ,calcium sulphide1 #bib ,camphor1 #aba balls1 #bda ,camphor cold-cream1 #bdj ice1 #bdj wood1 #be ,camphorated chalk tooth powder1 #bfb ,cologne water1 #bff ,canelle1 #bg ,cantharidal pomade1 #bdh ,cantharides1 tincture of1 #bha ,caramel1 #cja ,carbon1 bisulphide of1 #ff ,carbonate of ammonia1 #gd ,carbonic acid apparatus1 #aab acid for absorption of odors1 #ajb ,carmine1 #bii ,carthamin red1 #bii ,carum ,carvi1 #be ,carvi1 #be ,caryophylli1 #cj ,caryophyllus aromaticus1 #cj ,cascarilla bark1 #bf gratissima1 #bf ,cassia1 #bh ,cassie1 #bf1 #bh extract of1 #aea ,castor1 ,castoreum1 #eh tincture of1 #aeb ,castor-oil pomade1 #beb ,cedar1 essence of1 #aeb perfume1 #agd tincture of1 #aeb wood1 #bg ,cdre du ,libanon perfume1 #agd ,cedrus libanotica1 #bg ,ceylon sachet powder1 #bji ,chalk1 prepared1 manufacture of1 #bfa ,venetian1 #bga ,chapped skin1 lotion for1 #bge ,characteristics1 special1 of aromatic substances1 #aah ,charcoal objectionable as a tooth powder1 #bei tooth powder1 #bfc ,cheiranthus ,cheiri1 #ee ,chemical constitution of vegetable aromatic substances1 #ae products used for the preparation of perfumes1 #fh products used in perfumery1 #fc ,chemicals used for the extraction of aromatic substances1 #fd ,cherry salve1 #bdc ,cherrylaurel leaves1 #bi ,chvre-feuille1 #cc ,china rose perfume1 #aib roses1 extract of1 #afa ,chinese gelatin1 #hj tooth powder1 #bfd ,chloral mouth wash1 #bfg ,chloroform1 #fe ,chlorophyll1 #cjj ,cinchona bark tooth powder1 #bfb pomade1 #bea ,cinnamomum1 #bg ,cinnamomum ,culilavan ,nees1 #ca zeylanicum1 #bh ,cinnamon1 #bg ,chinese1 #bh tincture of1 #afe ,circassian pomade1 #bdh ,cire moustaches1 #bie ,citron1 #bh flowers1 #bi ,citronella1 #bi essence of1 #aec ,citrus ,aurantium1 #da ,bergamia1 #bd limetta1 #ce ,limonum1 #ce medica1 #bh vulgaris1 #da ,civet1 #fb tincture of1 #afe ,civetta1 #fb ,clous de girofle1 #cj ,clove1 #cj essence of1 #aeg ,cold-creams and lip salves1 #bch ,cologne cold-cream1 #bdb water1 #ahj ,colors used in perfumery1 #hg1 #big ,concombre1 #ca ,convallaria perfume1 #agb ,convolvulus floridus1 #de scoparius1 #de ,cortex ,aurantii1 #da ,cascarill1 #bf ,culilavan1 #ca ,cosmetic perfumery1 #bbe1 #bfi ,cosmetics1 hair1 #bhj skin1 and face lotions1 #bgj skin1 red1 #bgb skin1 white1 #bga ,couronne de fleurs1 #agc ,court bouquet1 #agc ,craie ventienne1 #bga ,crme de ,cologne1 #bdb de molle1 #bea de ricine1 #beb de vanille1 #bec de violettes1 #bdd ,crinochrom1 #bij ,crisp mint1 #ch ,croton ,eluteria1 #bf ,crystallized oil1 #bdi ,cucumber1 #ca cold-cream1 #bdb extract of1 #aed milk1 #bcg ,cucumis sativus1 #ca ,culilaban bark1 #ca ,cuminum ,cyminum1 #bf ,curcuma1 #bih ,currant1 black1 #bg ,cuscus1 #cj1 #ed ,cuttlefish-bone tooth powder #bfc ,cyprian sachet powder1 #bji ,dandelion milk1 #bcg ,depilatories1 #bib ,dianthus caryophyllus1 #dd ,dill1 #ca ,dipteryx odorata1 #eb ,displacement1 #aaa ,distillation1 #ib fractional1 #adc ,divine pomade1 #bda ,dog-rose perfume1 #aic ,double pomades1 #bdi ,drop presses1 #ij ,dry perfumes1 #bjg ,dye1 black1 #bhh brown1 #bhh vegetable1 #bhg ,eau anathrine1 #bfe d',afrique1 #bij d'anges1 #ci d',athnes1 #bha de ,berlin1 #agj de ,botot1 #bfe de ,cologne1 #ahj de fleurs1 #bha de fontaine de jouvence1 #bia de laurier1 #bhb de lavande mille fleurs1 #ahd de lavande ambre1 #ahc de lavande double1 #ahd de ,leipsic1 #ahd de ,lisbonne1 #ahe de ,luce1 #bjb de ,mialhe1 #bfg de ,milan1 #bff de mille fleurs1 #ahf de mille fleurs palmarose1 #ahg de perles1 #bgf de romarin1 #bhb de rose triple1 #afj de roses1 #bhc de salvia1 #bfh de violettes1 #bfh du ,portugal1 #aij glycerine aux cantharides1 #bha hongroise1 #aie japonaise1 #agh lenticuleuse1 #bge saponique1 #bhb ,victoria1 #bhb ,eaux aromatises1 #aac encensoires1 #bbj ,ecorce culilaban1 #ca d'oranges1 #da ,eglantine perfume1 #aic ,elais guineensis1 #db ,elder flowers1 #cb ,emulsions1 #bbg1 #bcj ,encens1 #dj ,enfleurage1 #aja ,esprit de roses triple1 #afa ,ess4 bouquet1 #age ,essence de roses blanches1 #afb ,essence de roses jaunes1 #afa de roses jumelles1 #afb de styrax1 #afb definition of1 #aej des bouquets1 #age meaning of the ,french term1 #ad of mirbane1 #hc ,essences dentifrices1 #bfe directions for making1 #aej employed in perfumery1 #adf fruit1 #hb removal of fat from1 #adi ,essential oil a misnomer1 #ad oils1 adulteration of1 with alcohol1 #add oils1 adulteration of1 with fixed oils1 #add oils1 adulteration of1 with other essential oils1 #adc oils1 adulteration of1 with paraffin1 spermaceti1 or wax1 #ade oils1 adulterations of1 and their recognition1 #aci oils1 chemical and physical properties of1 #af oils1 final purification of1 #aab oils1 oxygenation of1 #ah oils1 preservation of1 #ai oils1 table showing the approximate density1 boiling and congealing points of1 #ada oils1 yield of1 #aac ,esterhazy bouquet1 #agc ,ether1 #fd acetic1 #hj apple1 #ha nitrous1 #ha nanthic1 #ga pear1 #ha petroleum1 #fe pine-apple1 #ha ,ethers1 fruit1 #ha1 #hb ,eugenia ,pimenta1 #ba ,excelsior extraction apparatus1 #ajg ,extract1 definition of1 #aej ,extraction1 #ajc apparatus1 #ajc et seq4 of aromatic substances1 chemicals used for1 #fd of odors1 #hg ,extracts1 directions for making1 #aej employed in perfumery1 #adf ,extrait d'amande1 #aeb d'ambre1 #afi d'ambregris1 #aea d'ambrette1 #aeb de baume de tolou1 #afb de benjoin1 #aea de bergamotte1 #beb de bois de cdre1 #aeb de canelle1 #afe de cassie1 #aea de castoreum1 #aeb de cdre1 #aeb de chvre-feuille1 #aec1 #agf de civette1 #afe de clous de girofles1 #aeg de concombre1 #aed de fleurs d'oranges1 #aeh de gaulthrie1 #afe de girofl1 #aee1 #ahd de glaeul1 #aeb d'glantine1 #afa de hliotrope1 #aed1 #agf de jasmin1 #aee de jonquille1 #aeg1 #agi de lavande1 #aee de lilas1 #aec1 #agd de limon1 #aef de lys1 #aef1 #ahe de magnolia1 #aef1 #ahe de menthe1 #aef de mignonette1 #aei de musc1 #aef1 #ahh de myrte1 #aeg1 #ahi de narcisse1 #aeg1 #ahi d'encens1 #afe de nroli1 #aeh de patchouli1 #aeh1 #aia de ,prou1 #aei de piment1 #aei de pois de senteur1 #aei1 #aij de rosa tha1 #afb de rose1 #aei de roses mousseuses1 #afa de roses triple1 #afa de santal1 #afb de ,schoenanthe1 #aec de tonka1 #afc de tuberose1 #afc de vanille1 #afc de verveine1 #afc1 #aif de vtiver1 #afe de violette1 #afc de volcameria1 #afd d'iris1 #afc d'oeillet1 #aeh1 #aij d'oliban1 #afe vgtal1 #bha ,fab ,tonk1 #eb ,face lotions1 #bgd ,farine d'amandes1 #bcd de pistaches1 #bce ,fats1 #gg purification of1 #gg1 #bdf rancidity of1 prevention of1 #gi ,fennel1 #cb ,fenouil1 #cb ,ferula ,sumbul1 #di ,fves de ,tonka1 #eb ,field-flower sachet powder1 #bji ,fiori d',italia1 #agd ,fleurs de citron1 #bi de mai perfume1 #agb de ,montpellier1 #ahg des champs1 #ahh d'oranges1 #da solsticiales1 #aid ,florentine flasks1 #if ,flores ,aurantii1 #da ,citri1 #bi ,lonicer1 #cc ,sambuci1 #cb ,syring1 #cf ,florida perfume1 #age ,flowers of the ,isle of ,wight perfume1 #aih ,fniculum vulgare1 #cb ,folia ,cajuputi1 #be ,laurocerasi1 #bi ,forest-breeze perfume1 #aig ,formulas for handkerchief perfumes1 #afi for pomades and hair oils1 #bdg for sachets1 #bji for toilet vinegars1 #bjd ,fractional distillation1 #adc ,frangipanni sachet powder1 #baj ,freckle lotion1 #bge milk1 #bgd ,french flower farms1 annual production of1 #aj white1 #bga ,fructus ,citri1 #bh ,fruit essences1 #hb ethers1 #hj1 #hb ,fumigating paper1 #bah pastils1 #bad pencils1 #baf powders1 #bbj ribbons1 #bai waters and vinegars1 #bbj ,fumigation1 perfumes used for1 #bad ,funnel1 separating1 #hi1 #ih ,fusel oils1 #ga ,garland of flowers perfume1 #agc ,gaultheria procumbens1 #ee ,gaulthrie1 #ee ,gelatin1 ,chinese1 #hj ,geranium1 #cb essence of1 #aed ,ginger grass1 #cj ,girofl1 #ee ,glycerin1 #hb cold-cream1 #bdj cosmetic use of1 #bbg cream1 #bca emulsions1 #bca jelly1 #bcb ,golden hair water1 #bia ,grains d'ambrette1 #ch ,green colors1 #cjj ,gum wax1 #di ,hair cosmetics1 #bhj dye1 copper1 #bij dye1 lead1 #bhf dyes and depilatories1 #bhe dyes1 double1 #bhh dyes1 silver1 #bhh simple1 #bhf oils and pomades1 #bde oils1 formulas for1 #bed restorer1 #bhc tonics1 #bhc washes1 #bha ,handkerchief perfumes1 formulas for1 #afi perfumes1 manufacture of1 #afg ,hedyosmum flowers1 #cc ,heliotrope1 #cc bouquet1 #aid extract of1 #aed hair oil1 #bee perfume1 #agf pomade1 #beb sachet powder1 #baj ,heliotropin1 #cc ,heliotropium peruvianum1 #cc ,hepar sulphuris1 #hd ,herba ,majoran1 #cg ,hibiscus ,abelmoschus1 #ch ,history of perfumery1 #a ,homopathic chalk tooth powder1 #bfb ,honeysuckle1 #cc extract of1 #aec perfume1 #agf ,hovenia perfume1 #agg ,huile benjamin1 #bee l'ess-bouquet1 #bee crystallise1 #bdi de jasmin1 #bee de mille fleurs1 #ahh de palme1 #db hliotrope1 #bee philocome1 #bef ,hungarian beard wax1 #bie water1 #aie ,huntsman's nosegay1 #agh ,hydrogen dioxide1 #bia ,hygienic and cosmetic perfumery1 #bbe ,hyraceum1 #ei ,hyssop1 #cd ,hyssopus officinalis1 #cd ,illicium anisatum1 ,i4 religiosum1 #dh ,incense powder1 #bag ,indian sachet powder1 #baj ,inexhaustible salt1 #bjj ,infusion1 #ih cold and warm1 #adg ,iris1 #db florentina1 #db ,iwarankusa1 #ed ,jasmine1 #cd emulsion1 #bcb extract of1 #aee hair oil1 #bee ,jasminum odoratissimum1 #cd ,jockey club1 #agh ,juniperus virginiana1 #bg ,jonquille1 extract of1 #aeg perfume1 #agi pomade1 #bih ,kaloderm1 #bgi ,karsi1 #bhf ,kiss me quick perfume1 #ahj ,kohol1 #bhg ,lait antphelique1 #bgd d'amandes amres1 #bch de concombre1 #bcg de lilas1 #bcf de pistaches1 #bch de roses1 #bch virginal1 #bcf ,lathyrus tuberosus1 #ej ,laurier1 #bb ,laurier-crise1 #bi ,laurus nobilis1 #bb ,lavande1 #cd ,lavandula vera1 #cd ,lavender1 #cd essence of1 #aee perfumes1 #ahc sachet powder1 #baj ,leap-year bouquet1 #ahd ,lemon1 #ce essence of1 #aef grass1 #cj1 #ce grass1 essence of1 #aec ,lignum ,camphor1 #be ,cedri1 #bg ,rhodii1 #de ,sassafras1 #dg ,lilac1 #cf extract of1 #aec milk1 #bcf perfume1 #agd ,lilas1 #cf ,lilionese1 #bge ,lilium candidum1 #cf ,lily1 #cf extract of1 #aef perfume1 #ahe of the valley extract1 #ahe of the valley perfume1 #agb1 #ahe ,limon1 #ce ,liquidambar orientalis1 ,l4 styraciflua1 #di ,liquidamber1 #di ,lip salve1 white and red1 #bdc salves and cold-creams1 #bch ,lis1 #cf ,liver of sulphur1 #hd ,lonicera ,caprifolium1 #cc ,lotion for chapped skin1 #bgf ,lotions1 face1 #bgd ,macassar oil1 #bef ,mace1 #cf ,maceration1 #ih ,maces1 #cf ,magnolia1 #cg extract of1 #aef grandiflora1 #cg perfume1 #ahe ,mallard's toilet vinegar1 #bjf ,marjolaine1 #cg ,marjoram1 #cg ,marrow cream1 #bea ,marshal sachet powder1 #baj ,meadow-sweet1 #ch ,meals and pastes1 #bcc ,melaleuca ,cajuputi1 #be ,melanogne1 #bhi ,melissa officinalis1 #bb ,mentha aquatica1 ,m4 crispa1 ,m4 piperita1 ,m4 viridis1 #ch ,menthe crpue1 poivre1 verde1 #ch ,mignonette1 #de ,milk1 vegetable1 #bce ,mille fleurs sachet powder1 #baa ,mint1 #ch ,moschus1 #ei ,moss-rose1 extract of1 #afa perfume1 #aic ,mousseline perfume1 #ahh ,mouth1 preparations for the care of1 #beg washes1 #bfe ,murexide paint1 #bgd ,muscade1 #dj ,musk1 #ei paste1 #bgi perfume1 #ahh tincture of1 #aef ,musk-seed1 #ch tincture of1 #aeb ,muslin sachet powder1 #baa ,myrcia acris1 #bb ,myristica1 #dj ,myristica fragrans1 #cf ,myrrh1 #ci tooth tincture1 #bfg ,myrrha1 #ci ,myrtle1 extract of1 #aeg leaves1 #ci perfume1 #ahi ,myrtus communis1 #ci ,nail powder1 #bdd ,narcissus1 #dj extract of1 #aeg ,jonquilla1 #dj perfume1 #ahi poeticus1 #dj ,nardostachys ,jatamansi1 #dh ,navy's nosegay1 #ahi ,neroli1 extract of1 #aeh ,new-mown hay1 #agg1 #ahi ,nitrobenzol1 #hc ,nitrous ether1 #ha ,nosegay perfume1 #agb ,nutmeg1 #dj butter1 #abi ,odors1 extraction of1 #hg from pomades1 abstraction of1 #ajb from the vegetable kingdom1 #ac illet1 #dd nanthic ether1 #ga ,oil1 benzoated1 #bee crystallized1 #bdi macassar1 #bef of allspice1 #acb of anise1 #aai of bergamot1 #aai of bitter almonds1 #gd1 #abj of bitter almonds1 artificial1 #hc of burdock root1 #bef of cajuput1 #abj of calamus1 #abj of caraway1 #abe of cascarilla1 #aba of cassia1 #aba1 #acg of cassie1 #aai of cedar1 #aba of chamomile1 #abj of cherry-laurel1 #abe of cinnamon1 #acg of citron1 #abb of citronella1 #abb of clove1 #acj of coriander1 #abc of crispmint1 #abi of culilaban1 #abe of elder1 #abd of geranium1 #abc of heliotrope1 #abd of hyssop1 #acg of jasmine1 #bbd of laurel1 #abg of lavender1 #abe of lemon1 #abb1 #abg of lemon-grass1 #abb of lilac1 #abc of lily1 #abf of mace1 #abi of magnolia1 #abg of marjoram1 #abg of meadowsweet1 #ace of melissa1 #abh of mignonette1 #acc of mirbane1 #hc of myrtle1 #acj of narcissus1 #acj of nroli bigarade1 #aca of nroli ptale1 #aca of nutmeg1 #abi of orange1 #aca of orange bigarade1 #aca of orange flowers1 #acj of patchouly1 #acb of peppermint1 #abi of petit grain1 #aca of pink1 #acj of ,portugal1 #aca of reseda1 #acc of rhodium1 #acd of rose1 #acc of rosemary1 #acd of rue1 #acc of sage1 #acd of sandal wood1 #acd of santal1 #acd of sassafras1 #ace of spearmint1 #abi of star-anise1 #ace of sweet bay1 #abg of sweet pea1 #acb of ,swiss herbs1 #bee of syringa1 #acb of thyme1 #ace of turpentine1 #ach of vanilla1 #acf of verbena1 #acf of vetiver1 #acf of violet1 #acf of wallflower1 #abf of wintergreen1 #acf of ylang-ylang1 #acg palm1 #bii ,oils1 essential1 adulterations of1 and their recognition1 #aci essential1 see also ,essential oils fusel1 #ga of mint1 #abh purification of1 #gi ,ololisse1 #big ,oleum ,amygdal amar1 #gd1 #abj ,anisi ,stellati1 #ace ,cajuputi1 #abj ,calami1 #abj ,cari1 #abe ,caryophylli1 #acj ,cassi1 #aba1 #acg ,chamomill1 #abj ,cinnamomi1 #acg ,citri1 #abb ,coriandri1 #abc ,culilavani1 #abe ,gaultheri1 #acf ,hyssopi1 #acg ,illicii1 #ace ,ivaranchus1 #acf ,lauri1 #abg ,lavandul1 #abe ,limonis1 #abb1 #abg ,macidis1 #abi ,majoran1 #abg ,menth crisp1 #abi ,menth piperit1 #abi ,myristic1 #abi ,naph1 #acj ,neroli1 #acj ,palm1 #db ,rosmarini1 #acd ,rut1 #acc ,salvi1 #acd ,sambuci1 #abd ,santali1 #acd ,sassafras1 #ace ,spir1 #ace ,terebinthin1 #ach ,thymi1 #ace ,unon odoratissim1 #acg ,olibanum1 #dj tincture of1 #ace ,olivine1 #bcc ,olla podrida sachet powder1 #baa ,opopanax1 #da ,orange flower1 extract of1 #aeh flower pomade1 #beb flowers1 #da peel1 #da ,origanum1 #db ,majorana 7vulgare71 #cg ,orris root1 #db root1 tincture of1 #afc ,otto of rose1 #acc ,oxidation of essential oils1 #ah ,oxide of tin1 #hf ,palm oil1 #db1 #bii ,paper1 fumigating1 #bah ,paraffin1 #hc ,paste1 ,spanish1 #bbd ,pastes and meals1 #bcc ,pastilles du srail1 #baf enbaumes1 #bag odorifrantes1 #bag orientales1 #bae1 #bfd ,pastils1 fumigating1 #bad ,patchouly1 #dc essence of1 #aeh perfume1 #aia powder1 #bab ,pte camphorique1 #bdj d'amandes au miel1 #bcd d'amandes simple1 #bcc dentifrice1 #bfa ,pear ether1 #ha ,pearl white1 #hf1 #bga1 #bgh ,peau d',espagne1 #bbb ,pelargonium roseum1 #cb ,pencils1 fumigating1 #baf ,peppermint1 #ch essence of1 #aef ,perfumery1 cosmetic1 #bfi division of1 #aff history of1 #a hygienic and cosmetic1 #bbe ,perfumes1 acid1 #bjb ammoniacal1 #aii dry1 #bjg used for fumigation1 #bad ,permanganate of potassium1 #gf1 #bfg1 #bhg ,peroxide of hydrogen1 #bia ,persian sachet powder1 #bab ,peru balsam1 #dc balsam1 tincture of1 #aei hair oil1 #bef ,petroleum ether1 #fe ,philadelphus coronarius1 #cd1 #ea ,philocome hair oil1 #bef pomade1 #bed ,pimenta1 #ba ,pimpinella ,anisum1 #ba ,pine-apple1 #dd ether1 #ha ,pine-needle odor1 #aig ,pink1 #dd ,pink1 extract of1 #aeh perfume1 #aij ,piperonal1 #cc ,pistachio meal1 #bce milk1 #bch ,place of growth of plants1 influence on their odor1 #aa ,plumeria1 #dd ,pogostemon ,patchouly1 #dc ,pois de senteur1 #ej ,polianthus tuberosa1 #ec ,polyanthus perfume1 #aij ,pomade fleurs1 #bej fleurs d'oranges1 #beb graisse d'ours1 #bej la rose pour les lvres1 #bdc molle de buf1 #bea quinquine1 #bea blanche pour les lvres1 #bdc cerise1 #bdc de hliotrope1 #beb des violettes1 #bec divine1 #bda philocome1 #bed ,pomades and hair oils1 #bde formulas for1 #bdg ,pomatum1 stick1 #bid ,portugal oil1 #beg sachet powder1 #bab ,potassii sulphuretum1 #hd permanganas1 #gf ,potassium permanganate hair dye1 #bhg permanganate water1 #bfg sulphide of1 #hd ,potpourri sachet powder1 #bab ,poudre la rose1 #bgg la violette1 #bgh blanche surfine1 #bgh de la reine1 #bba d'encens1 #bag de pistaches1 #bgg de riz1 #bgh impriale1 #bba pour les ongles1 #bdd royale1 #bba ,poudres encensoires1 #bbj ,powder1 incense1 #bag ,powders1 toilet1 #bgf ,preparations for the care of the mouth1 #beg ,pressure1 #hh ,preston salt1 #bjb ,prunus laurocerasus1 #bi ,pterocarpus santalinus1 #dg ,pulchrine1 #bgf ,pumice stone objectionable as a tooth powder1 #beh ,pyrogallic acid1 #hd ,queen ,victoria's perfume1 #aij ,quinine tooth powder1 #bfb ,racine de glaeule1 #ej ,radix ,calami1 #ej ,iridis florentin1 #db ,sumbul1 #di ,rancidity of fats1 prevention of1 #gi ,red colors1 #bii ,reine des prs1 #ch ,reseda1 #de essence of1 #aia extract of1 #aei odorata1 #de ,resina ,opopanax1 #da ,resinification1 #ah ,rhatany1 #cjj ,rhodium1 #de ,rhusma1 #bid ,ribbons1 fumigating1 #bai ,ribes niger1 #bg ,robinia pseudoacacia1 #bg ,romarin1 #df ,rondeletia odoratissima perfume1 #aia ,rosa1 #de centifolia perfume1 #aib ,rose1 #de essence or extract of1 #aei1 #afa milk1 #bch mousseuse perfume1 #aic odors1 #aib sachet powder1 #bac tha perfume1 #aic tooth powder1 #bfd water1 #afj ,rosebud cold-cream1 #bdd ,rosemary1 #df ,roses blanches perfume1 #aic jaunes perfume1 #aib jumelles perfume1 #aic ,rosmarinus officinalis1 #df ,rouge alloxane1 #bgd en feuilles1 #bgb en pte1 #bgc en tasses1 #bgc vgtal rose liquide1 #bgb ,rouges1 #bgb ,royal ,horse-,guard's bouquet1 #agg nosegay1 #aib ,rue1 #df ,ruta graveolens1 #df ,sachets1 formulas for1 #bji ,saffron1 #bih ,safrol1 #dg ,sage1 #df ,salicylated tooth tincture1 #bfh ,salicylic acid1 preservation of fats by1 #gi ,salt1 inexhaustible1 #bjj smelling1 white1 #bja ,preston1 #bjb ,salvia officinalis1 #df ,sambucus canadensis1 #cb niger1 #cb ,santal1 extract of1 #afb sachet powder1 #bac wood1 #dg ,santalum album1 #dg ,sassafras1 ,s4 officinalis1 #dg ,sauge1 #df ,savon dentifrice1 #bfj ,savonettes camphoriques1 #bda d'amandes1 #bdd ,scent bags1 #bjg ,schnuda1 #bgd ,schoenanthe1 #ce ,seiffert's extraction apparatus1 #aje ,sel blanc parfum1 #bja inpuisable1 #bjj volatil1 #bjb ,semen ,abelmoschi1 #ch ,anethi1 #ca ,anisi stellati1 #dh ,carvi1 #be ,separating funnel1 #hi1 #ih ,separators1 #if ,seringat1 #ea ,skin1 chapped1 lotion for1 #bge cosmetics and face lotions1 #bgj cosmetics1 red1 #bgb cosmetics1 white1 #bga gloss1 #bgh ,smelling salt1 white1 #bja ,sodii boras1 #ge ,soumboul1 #di ,spanish paste1 #bbd skin1 #bbb ,spearmint1 #ch ,spermaceti1 #he ,spiced vinegar1 #bjd ,spic-nard1 #dh ,spike-lavender1 #ce ,spikenard1 #dh ,spira ulmaria1 #ch ,sponges1 bleaching of1 #cjb ,spring kisses1 #agj nosegay perfume1 #aid ,starch1 #hd ,star-anise1 #dh ,steam still1 #aaj ,stick pomatum1 #bid ,stills1 #ib et seq4 ,storax1 #di tincture of1 #afb ,styrax ,benzoin1 #bc ,suave perfume1 #aid ,subnitrate of bismuth1 #hf ,sugar tooth powder1 #bfd ,sulphide of potassium1 #hd ,sumbul root1 #di ,sureau1 #cb ,sweet almonds1 #ej ,sweet-brier1 extract of1 #afa ,sweet-flag root1 #ej ,sweet gum1 #di ,sweet-pea1 #ej essence of1 #aif extract of1 #aei ,syringa1 #ea perfume1 #aie vulgaris1 #cf ,table showing the approximate density1 boiling and congealing points of essential oils1 #ada ,tables1 percentage1 of alcohol1 #gj ,tannin hair dye1 #bhi ,tanno-quinine hair restorer1 #bhc pomade1 #beb ,tea-rose1 extract of1 #afb perfume1 #aic ,teint de ,venus1 #bgf ,teinture chinoise1 #bhg orientale1 #bhf ,terpineol1 #cf ,thyme1 #ea ,thymus ,serpyllum1 ,t4 vulgaris1 #ea ,tin1 oxide of1 #hf ,tincture1 definition of1 #aej ,toilet powder1 pink1 #bgg powder1 white1 #bgg powders1 #bgf utensils1 #cja vinegar1 ,mallard's1 #bjf vinegars1 #bjd ,tolu balsam1 #ea tincture of1 #afb ,toluifera ,balsamum1 #ea ,pereir1 #dc ,tonka beans1 #eb cream1 #bec oil1 #beg tincture of1 #afc ,tooth pastes1 #bfj powders1 #bfb soap1 #bfj tinctures1 #bfe ,transparent pomade1 #beb ,tuberose1 #ec emulsion1 #bcb extract of1 #afc ,tulipe odorifrante perfume1 #aie ,tumeric1 #bih ,twin-rose perfume1 #aic ,twin-roses1 extract of1 #afb ,unona odoratissima1 #ef ,utensils used in the toilet1 #cja ,vanilla1 #ec aromatica1 ,v4 planifolia1 #ec camphor1 #acf cream1 #bec oil1 #beg pomade1 #bec tincture of1 #afc ,vanillin1 #he1 #acf ,vaselin1 #he ,vegetable aromatic substances1 chemical constitution of1 #ae kingdom1 odors from1 #ac milk1 #bce ,venetian chalk1 #bga ,verbena1 #ed extract of1 #afc ,verbena perfume1 #aif sachet powder1 #bad triphylla1 #ed ,verveine1 #ed ,vetiver1 #cj1 #ed essence of1 #afe sachet powder1 #bad ,vinaigre la rose1 #bjd aux pices1 #bjd aux fleurs d'oranges1 #bje aux violettes1 #bje de cologne1 #bje de lavande1 #bjf de quatre voleurs1 #bje ther1 #bjf hyginique1 #bje polyanthe1 #bjg ,vinaigres encensoires1 #bbj ,vinegar1 aromatic1 #bjc ,mallard's toilet1 #bjf orange-flower1 #bjf preventive1 #bje spiced1 #bjd toilet1 ,french1 #bjg ,vinegars1 toilet1 #bjd ,viola odorata1 #ed ,violet1 #ed cold-cream1 #bdd color1 #cja emulsion1 #bcb extract of1 #afc perfume1 #aie pomade1 #bec sachet powder1 #bac1 #bad ,violettes des montagnes1 #aig ,violettes 7perfume71 #aie ,virginal milk1 #bcf ,vohl's extraction apparatus1 #aaj ,volcameria1 #ee extract of1 #afd inermis1 #ee perfume1 #aig ,wallflower1 #ee extract of1 #aee perfume1 #ahd ,waters1 aromatic1 #aac1 #afg ,wax1 #he pomades1 #bid ,west ,end perfume1 #aig ,whisker dye1 #bib ,white1 ,french1 #bga pearl1 dry1 #bgh rose1 extract of1 #afb rose perfume1 #aic ,wintergreen1 #ee extract of1 #afe perfume1 #aih ,yacht club perfume1 #aih ,yellow colors1 #bih ,yield of essential oils1 #aac ,ylang-ylang1 #ef perfume1 #aih 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's ,notes ,obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected4 ,variations in hyphenation have been standardised but all other spelling and punctuation remains unchanged4 ,the larger tables have been re-organised to fit more readily within page constraints4 ,italics are represented thus italic1 bold thus bold4