,illustration3 ,an ,ancient ,brewhoue4 #aefh4 ,the ,curiosities ,,of ,ale ,beer3 ,an ,entertaining ,history4 7,illustrated with over ,fifty ,quaint ,cuts47 ,,by ,john ,bickerdyke4 ,in ,part collected by the late ,j4 ,g4 ,,fennell2 now largely augmented with manifold matters of singular note and worthy memory by the ,author and his friend ,j4 ,m4 ,d----4 ,illustration3 8,for a quart of ,ale is a dish for a ,king40--,shakspere4 ,,london3 ,,swan ,,sonnenschein ,co41 ,,paternoster ,,square4 #ahhi4 ,illustration ,,printed ,,by ,,chas4 ,,straker ,,and ,,sons1 ,,bishopsgate ,,avenue1 ,,london2 ,,and ,,redhill4 ,dedicated ,,to ,,the ,brewers of the ,united ,kingdom ,,and ,,all ,,who ,,value ,honest ,malt ,liquor4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,preface4 ,that the history and curiosities of ,ale and ,beer should fill a bulky volume1 may be a subject for surprise to the unthinking reader2 and that surprise will probably be intensified1 on his learning that great difficulty has been experienced in keeping this book within reasonable limits1 and at the same time doing anything like justice to the subject4 ,since the dawn of our history ,barley-wine has been the 8naturall drinke0 for an 8,englysshe man10 and has had no unimportant influence on ,english life and manners4 ,it is1 therefore1 somewhat curious that up to the present1 among the thousands of books published annually1 no comprehensive work on the antiquities of ale and beer has found place4 ,some years ago this strange neglect of so excellent a theme was observed by the late ,john ,greville ,fennell1 best known as a contributor to ,the ,field1 and who1 like 8,john of the ,dale10 was a 8lover of ale40 ,with him probably originated the idea of filling this void in our literature4 ,as occasion offered he made extracts from works bearing on the subject1 and in time amassed a considerable amount of material1 which was1 however1 devoid of arrangement4 ,old age overtaking him before he was able to commence writing his proposed book1 he asked me to undertake that which from failing health he was unable to accomplish4 ,to this ,i assented1 and at the end of some months had prepared a complete scheme of the book1 with the materials for each chapter carefully grouped4 ,that arrangement1 for which ,i am responsible1 has1 with a few slight modifications1 been carefully adhered to4 ,the work did not then proceed further1 as to carry out my scheme a large amount of additional matter1 from sources not then available1 was required4 ,a few months later my friend was taken seriously ill1 and1 finding his end approaching1 directed that on his decease all papers connected with the book should be placed at my disposal4 ,his death seems to render a statement of our respective shares in the book desirable4 ,when able to resume work on the book1 with the object of hastening its publication1 ,i obtained the assistance of my friend1 ,mr4 ,j4 ,m4 ,d----4 ,by the collection of fresh matter1 in amplification of that already arranged1 and the addition of several new features1 we have considerably increased the scope of the work1 and1 it is to be hoped1 added to its attractiveness4 ,to my friend's researches in the ,city of ,london and other ,records is due the bringing to light of many curious facts1 so far as ,i am aware1 never before noticed4 ,he has also rendered me great assistance in those portions of the book in which the antiquities of the subject are specially treated4 ,the illustrations have been in most part taken from rare old works4 ,as any smoothing away of defects in such relics of the past would be deemed by many an offence against the antiquarian code of morality1 they have been reproduced in exact fac-simile1 and will no doubt appeal to those interested in the art of the early engraver1 and amuse many with their quaintness4 ,as aptly terminating the chapter devoted to an account of the medicinal qualities of ale and beer1 ,i have ventured to enter upon a short consideration of the leading teetotal arguments4 ,in extending their denunciations to ale and beer drinkers1 the total abstainers are1 in my opinion1 working a very grievous injury on the labouring classes1 who for centuries have found the greatest benefit from the use of malt liquors4 ,barley-broth should be looked upon as the temperance drink of the people or1 in other words1 the drink of the temperate4 ,i have gratefully to acknowledge the kindness and courtesy accorded me during the preparation of this work by the authorities of the ,british ,museum1 by ,dr4 ,sharpe1 ,records ,clerk of the ,city of ,london1 by ,mr4 ,higgins1 ,clerk of the ,brewers' ,company1 and by several eminent brewers and a large number of correspondents4 ,,john ,,bickerdyke4 ,illustration ,illustration ,illustration ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,suppression of ,beer-shops in ,egypt #b1jjj ,b4,c4 -- ,brewing in a ,teapot4 -- ,ale ,songs4 -- ,distinctions between ,ale and ,beer4 -- ,ale-,knights' objection to ,sack4 -- ,hogarth and ,temperance4 -- ,importance of ,ale to the ,agricultural ,labourer4 -- ,sir ,john ,barleycorne introduced to the ,reader 4 4 4 #a ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,origin and ,antiquity of ,ale and ,beer 4 4 4 #be ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,home-brewed ,ales4 -- ,old ,receipts4 -- ,historical ,facts4 -- ,dean ,swift on ,home-brew4 -- ,christopher ,north's ,brew-house 4 4 4 #de ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,use and ,importance of ,hops in ,beer3 ,their ,introduction and ,history4 -- ,hop-growers' ,troubles4 -- ,medicinal ,qualities4 -- ,economical ,uses4 -- ,hop-pickers 4 4 4 #fe ,,chapter ,v4 ,ancient and ,curious ,laws relating to the manufacture and sale of ,ale and ,beer 4 4 4 #if ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,brewing and ,malting in ,early ,times4 -- ,the ,ale-wives4 -- ,the ,brewers of ,old ,london and the ,brewers' ,company4 -- ,anecdotes4 -- ,quaint ,epitaphs 4 4 4 #abj ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,various ,kinds of ,ales and ,beers4 -- ,some ,foreign ,beers4 -- ,receipts4 -- ,songs4 -- ,anecdotes 4 4 4 #aea ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,ale houses3 ,their ,origin4 -- ,hospitality in ,medival ,times4 -- ,old ,london ,inns and ,taverns4 -- ,anecdotes of ,inns and ,inn-keepers4 -- ,curious ,signs4 -- ,signboard and ,ale-house ,verses4 -- ,signboard ,artists4 -- ,ale-house ,songs and ,catches 4 4 4 #ahb ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,ancient ,merry-makings1 ,feasts and ,ceremonies peculiar to certain ,seasons1 at which ,ale was the principal ,drink4 -- ,harvest ,home1 ,sheep-shearing1 and other songs 4 4 4 #bcb ,,chapter ,x4 ,the ,ales4 -- ,ale at ,breakfast4 -- ,bequests of ,ale4 -- ,drinking ,customs4 -- ,a ,sermon on ,malt4 -- ,excesses of the ,clergy4 -- ,anecdotes 4 4 4 #bff ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,old ,ballads1 ,songs and ,verses relating to ,ale and ,beer 4 4 4 #bid ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,brewing in the ,present ,day4 -- ,anecdotal and ,biographical ,account of some representative ,london1 ,dublin1 ,burton and ,country ,brewing ,firms4 -- ,edinburgh ,ales 4 4 4 #cca ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,porter and ,stout4 -- ,circumstances which led to their ,introduction4 -- ,value to the ,working ,classes4 -- ,anecdotes4 -- 8,a ,pot of ,porter ,oh60 4 4 4 #cfe ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,beverages compounded of ,ale or ,beer1 with a number of ,receipts4 -- ,ancient ,drinking ,vessels4 -- ,various ,uses of ,ale other than as a ,drink 4 4 4 #cgh ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,old ,medical ,writers on ,ale4 -- ,adulteration of ,ale4 -- ,advantages of ,malt ,liquors to ,labouring ,classes4 -- ,temperance versus ,total ,abstinence4 -- ,anecdotes4 -- ,gay's ,ballad 4 4 4 #djh ,,appendix4 -- ,pasteur's ,discoveries 4 4 4 #dda ,illustration #a ,,the ,,curiosities ,,of ,,ale ,,and ,,beer4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,introductory4 8,for a quart of ale is a dish for a ,king40 ,winter's ,tale1 ,act iv4 ,scene #b4 ,no doubt it is a very tedious thing ,to undertake a folio work on law1 ,or metaphysics1 or again to ring ,the changes on the ,flood or ,trojan ,war3 ,old subjects these1 which ,poets only sing ,who think a new idea quite a flaw2 ,but thirst for novelty can't fail in liking ,the theme of ,ale1 the aptitude's so striking4 ,brasenose ,college ,shrovetide ,verses4 ,,suppression ,,of ,,beer ,,shops ,,in ,,egypt #b1jjj ,b4,c4 -- ,,brewing ,,in ,a ,,teapot4 -- ,,ale ,,songs4 -- ,,distinctions ,,between ,,ale ,,and ,,beer4 -- ,,ale-,,knights' ,,objection ,,to ,,sack4 -- ,,hogarth ,,and ,,temperance4 -- ,,importance ,,of ,,ale ,,to ,,the ,,agricultural ,,labourer4 -- ,,sir ,,john ,,barleycorne ,,introduced ,,to ,,the ,,reader4 ,four thousand years ago1 if old inscriptions and papyri lie not1 ,egypt was convulsed by the high-handed proceedings of certain persons in authority who inclined to the opinion that the beer shops were too many4 ,think of it1 ye modern ,suppressionists6 ',tis now forty centuries since first your theories saw the light1 and yet there is not a town in our happy country without its alehouse4 ,while those disturbing members of the ,egyptian community were waxing wrath over the beer shops1 our savage ancestors probably contented themselves with such drinks as mead made from wild honey1 #b or cyder from the crab tree4 ,but when ,ceres sent certain of her votaries into our then benighted land to initiate our woad-dressed forefathers into the mysteries of grain-growing1 the venerable ,druids quickly discovered the art of brewing that beverage which in all succeeding years has been the drink of ,britons4 ,of true ,british growth is the ,nectar we boast1 ,the homely companion of plain boiled and roast1 most truly wrote an ,oxford poet1 whose name has not been handed down to posterity4 ,almost every inhabitant of this country has tasted beer of some kind or another1 but on the subject of brewing the great majority have ideas both vague and curious4 ,about one person out of ten imagines that pale ale consists solely of hops and water2 indeed1 more credit is given by most persons to the hop than to the malt4 ,in order to give a proper understanding of our subject1 and at the risk of ruining the brewing trade1 let us then1 in ten lines or so1 inform the world at large how1 with no other utensils than a tea-kettle and a saucepan1 a quart or two of ale may be brewed1 and the revenue defrauded4 ,into your tea-kettle1 amateur brewer1 cast a quart of malt1 and on it pour water1 hot1 but not boiling2 let it stand awhile and stir it4 ,then pour off the sweet tea into the saucepan1 and add to the tea-leaves boiling water again1 and even a third time1 until possibly a husband would rebel at the weak liquid which issues from the spout4 ,the saucepan is now nearly full1 thanks to the frequent additions from the tea-kettle1 so on to the fire with it1 and boil up its contents for an hour or two1 not forgetting to add of hops half-an-ounce1 or a little more4 ,this process over1 let the seething liquor cool1 and1 when at a little below blood-heat1 throw into it a small particle of brewer's yeast4 ,the liquor now ferments2 at the end of an hour skim it1 and lo6 beneath the scum is bitter beer--in quantity1 a quart or more4 ,after awhile bottle the results of your brew1 place it in a remote corner of your cellar1 and order in a barrel of ,,xxx4 from the nearest brewer4 ,if the generality of people have ideas of the vaguest on the subject of brewing1 still less do we ,english know of the history of that excellent compound yclept ale4 ,o ale6 aurum potabile6 ,that gildest life's dull hours1 ,when its colour weareth shabbily1 ,when fade its summer flowers4 #c ,old ballad makers have certainly sung in its praise1 but it is a subject which few prose writers have touched upon1 except in the most superficial manner4 ,modern song writers rarely take ale as their theme4 ,the reason is not far to seek4 ,the ale of other days--not the single beer rightly stigmatised as 8whip-belly vengeance10 nor even the doble beer1 but the doble-doble beer brewed against law1 and beloved by the ale-knights of old--was of such mightiness that whoso drank of it1 more often than not dashed off a verse or two in its praise4 ,now most people drink small beer which exciteth not the brain to poesy4 ,could one of the ancient topers be restored to life1 in tasting a glass of our most excellent bitter1 he would1 in all likelihood1 make a wry face1 for hops were not always held in the estimation they obtain at present4 ,there is no doubt1 however1 that we could restore his equanimity and make him tolerably happy with a gallon or two of old ,scotch or ,burton ale1 double stout or1 better still1 a mixture of the three with a little aqua vit added4 ,in these pages it will be our task1 aided or unaided by strong ale as the case may be1 to remove the reproach under which this country rests2 for surely a reproach it is that the history of the bonny nut-brown ale1 to which we ,english owe not a little1 should have been so long left unwritten4 ,now ale has a curious history which1 as we have indicated1 will be related anon1 together with other matters pertaining to the subject4 ,at present let us only chat awhile concerning the great ,sir ,john ,barleycorn1 malt liquors of the past and present1 their virtues1 and importance to the labouring classes4 ,also may we consider the foolish ideas of certain worthy but misguided folk1 halting now and again1 should we find ourselves growing too serious1 to chant a jolly old drinking song1 that the way may be more enlivened4 ,if on reaching the first stage of our journey you1 dear reader1 and ourselves remain friends1 let us in each other's company pass lightly and cheerfully over the path which ,sir ,john ,barleycorn has traversed1 and fight again his battles1 rejoicing at his victories2 grieving over his defeats--if any there be4 ,if1 on the other hand1 it so happens that by the time we arrive at our first halting place you should grow weary of us--which the ,spirit of ,malt forbid6--let us at once part company1 friends none the less1 and consign us to a place high up on your bookshelf1 or with kindly words present us to the ,president of the ,united ,kingdom ,alliance4 ,in accusing modern poets of neglecting to sing the praises of our #d national drink1 we must not forget that in one place is kept up the good old custom of brewing strong beer and glorifying it in verse4 ,at ,brasenose ,college1 ,oxford1 beer of the strongest1 made of the best malt and hops1 is brewed once a year1 distributed ad4 lib41 and verses are written in its praise4 ,mr4 ,prior1 the college butler1 to whom is due the honour of having kept alive the custom for very many years1 writes us#a that it is proposed to pull down the old college brewery4 ,should this happen1 ,brasenose ale will become a thing of the past4 ,a fig for ,horace and his juice1 ,falernian and ,massic1 ,far better drink can we produce1 ,though 'tis not quite so classic-- wrote a ,brasenose poet4 ,alas1 that both poets and ale should soon become extinct6 ,among the few prose writers past or present who have taken ale for their subject1 ,john ,taylor1 of whom a good deal will be heard in these pages1 stands pre-eminent4 ,his little work1 ,drinke and ,welcome1 written some two hundred years ago1 and which glorifies ale in a manner most marvellous1 is one of the most curious literary productions it has ever been our good fortune to read4 8,ale is rightly called nappy10 says the old ,thames waterman and innkeeper1 8for it will set a nap upon a man's threed-bare eyes when he is sleepy4 ,it is called ,merry-goe-downe1 for it slides downe merrily2 ,it is fragrant to the ,sent1 it is most pleasing to the taste4 ,the flowring and mantling of it 7like chequer worke7 with the verdant smiling of it1 is delightefull to the ,sight1 it is ,touching or ,feeling to the ,braine and ,heart2 and 7to please the senses all7 it provokes men to singeing and mirth1 which is contenting to the ,hearing4 ,the speedy taking of it doth comfort a heavy and troubled minde2 it will make a weeping widowe laugh and forget sorrow for her deceas'd husband4 4 4 4 4 ,it will set a ,bashfull ,suiter a wooing2 ,it heates the chill blood of the ,aged2 ,it will cause a man to speake past his owne or any other man's capacity1 or understanding2 ,it sets an ,edge upon ,logick and ,rhetorick2 ,it is a friend to the ,muses2 ,it inspires the poore ,poet1 that cannot compasse the price of ,canarie or ,gascoign2 ,it mounts the ,musician 'bove ,eccla2 ,it makes the ,balladmaker ,rime beyond ,reason2 ,it is a ,repairer of a #e decaied ,colour in the face2 ,it puts ,eloquence into the ,oratour2 ,it will make the ,philosopher talke profoundly1 the ,scholler learnedly1 and the ,lawyer acute and feelingly4 ,ale at ,whitsontide1 or a ,whitson ,church ,ale1 is a repairer of decayed ,countrey ,churches2 ,it is a great friend to ,truth2 so they that drinke of it 7to the purpose7 will reveale all they know1 be it never so secret to be kept2 ,it is an ,embleme of ,justice1 for it allowes1 and yeelds measure2 ,it will put ,courage into a ,coward1 and make him swagger and fight2 ,it is a ,seale to many a good ,bargaine4 ,the ,physittian will commend it2 the ,lawyer will defend it2 ,it neither hurts or kils any but those that abuse it unmeasurably and beyond bearing2 ,it doth good to as many as take it rightly2 ,it is as good as a ,paire of ,spectacles to cleare the ,eyesight of an old ,parish ,clarke2 and in ,conclusion1 it is such a nourisher of ,mankinde1 that if my ,mouth were as bigge as ,bishopsgate1 my ,pen as long as a ,maypole1 and my ,inke a flowing spring1 or a standing fishpond1 yet ,i could not with ,mouth1 ,pen or ,inke1 speake or write the true worth and worthiness of ,ale40 ,bravo1 ,john ,taylor6 ,he would be a bold man who could lift up his voice against our honest ,english nappy1 after reading your vigorous lines4 #a ,may1 #ahhf4 ,see also pp4 #afe2 #chi4 ,it is not uninteresting to compare this sixteenth century work with a passage taken from ,by ,lake and ,river1 the author of which rarely loses an opportunity of eulogising beer4 ,anglers and many more will cordially agree with ,mr4 ,francis ,francis in his remarks4 8,ah6 my beloved brother of the rod10 he writes1 8do you know the taste of beer--of bitter beer--cooled in the flowing river8 ,not you2 ,i warrant1 like the #8,marchioness1' hitherto you have only had #8a sip' occasionally--and1 as ,mr4 ,swiveller judiciously remarks1 #8it can't be tasted in a sip4' ,take your bottle of beer1 sink it deep1 deep in the shady water1 where the cooling springs and fishes are4 ,then1 the day being very hot and bright1 and the sun blazing on your devoted head1 consider it a matter of duty to have to fish that long1 wide stream 7call it the ,blackstone stream1 if you will72 and so1 having endued yourself with high wading breeks1 walk up to your middle1 and begin hammering away with your twenty-foot flail4 ,fish are rising1 but not at you4 ,no1 they merely come up to see how the weather looks1 and what o'clock it is4 ,so fish away2 there is not above a couple of hundred yards of it1 and you don't want to throw more than about two or three-and-thirty yards at every cast4 ,it is a mere trifle4 ,an hour or so of good hard hammering will bring you to the end of it1 and then--let me ask you avec impressement--how about that beer8 ,is it cool8 ,is it refreshing8 ,does it #f gurgle1 gurgle1 and #8go down glug1' as they say in ,devonshire8 ,is it heavenly8 ,is it ,paradise and all the ,peris to boot8 ,ah6 if you have never tasted beer under these or similar circumstances1 you have1 believe me1 never tasted it at all40 ,a word or two now as to the distinctions between the beverages known as ale and beer4 ,going back to the time of the ,conquest1 or earlier1 we find that both words were applied to the same liquor1 a fermented drink made usually from malt and water1 without hops4 ,the ,danes called it ale1 the ,anglo-,saxons beer4 ,later on the word beer dropped almost out of use4 ,meanwhile1 in ,germany and the ,netherlands1 the use of hops in brewing had been discovered2 and in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries1 the ,flemings having introduced their bier into ,england1 the word 8beer0 came to have in this country a distinct meaning--viz41 hopped ale4 ,the difference was quaintly explained by ,andrew ,boorde in his ,dyetary1 written about the year #aedb4 8,ale10 said ,andrew1 8is made of malte and water2 and they which do put any other thynge to ale than is rehersed1 except yest1 barme1 or godesgood1 doth sofystical theyr ale4 ,ale for an ,englysshe man is a naturall drinke4 ,ale must have these propertyes3 it must be fresshe and cleare1 it muste not be ropy nor smoky1 nor it must have no weft nor tayle4 ,ale shuld not be dronke vnder v4 dayes olde4 ,newe ale is vnholsome for all men4 ,and sowre ale1 and deade ale the which doth stande a tylt1 is good for no man4 ,barly malte maketh better ale then oten malte or any other corne doth3 it doth ingendre grose humoures2 but yette it maketh a man stronge40 ,,of ,,bere4 8,bere is made of malte1 of hoppes1 and water2 it is the naturall drynke for a ,dutche man1 and nowe of late dayes it is moche vsed in ,englande to the detryment of many ,englysshe people2 specyally it kylleth them the which be troubled with the colycke1 and the stone1 and the strangulion2 for the drynke is a colde drynke2 yet it doth make a man fat1 and doth inflate the bely1 as it doth appere by the ,dutche men's faces and belyes4 ,if the bere be well serued1 and be fyned1 and not new1 it doth qualyfy heat of the liquer40 ,the distinction between ale and beer as described by ,boorde lasted for a hundred years or more4 ,as hops came into general use1 though malt liquors generally were now beer1 the word ale was still retained1 and was used whether the liquor it was intended to designate was #g hopped or not4 ,at the present day beer is the generic word1 which includes all malt liquors2 while the word ale includes all but the black or brown beers--porter and stout4 ,the meanings of the words are1 however1 subject to local variations4 ,this subject is further treated of in ,chapter ,,vii4 ,the union of hops and malt is amusingly described in one of the ,brasenose ,college ale poems3-- ,a ,grand ,cross of 8,malta10 one night at a ball1 ,fell in love with and married 8,hoppetta the ,tall40 ,hoppetta1 the bitterest1 best of her sex1 ,by whom he had issue--the first1 8,double ,x40 ,three others were born by this marriage--8a girl10 ,transparent as ,amber and precious as ,pearl4 ,then a son1 twice as strong as a ,porter or ,scout1 ,and another as 8,spruce0 as his brother was 8,stout40 ,double ,x1 like his ,sister1 is brilliant and clear1 ,like his ,mother1 tho' bitter1 by no means severe3 ,like his ,father1 not small1 and resembling each brother1 ,joins the spirit of one to the strength of the other4 ,in ,john ,taylor's time there seems to have existed among ale drinkers a wholesome prejudice against wine in general1 and more especially sack4 ,the water poet writes very bitterly on the subject3-- ,thus ,bacchus is ador'd and deified1 ,and we ,hispanialized and ,frenchifide2 ,whilst ,noble ,native ,ale and ,beere's hard fate ,are like old ,almanacks1 quite out of date4 ,thus men consume their credits and their wealths1 ,and swallow ,sicknesses in drinking healths1 ,untill the ,fury of the spritefull ,grape ,mountes to the braine1 and makes a man an ,ape4 ,another poet wrote in much the same strain3-- ,thy wanton grapes we do detest3 ,here's richer juice from ,barley press'd4 99 99 99 99 99 #h ,oh let them come and taste this beer ,and water henceforth they'll forswear4 ,our ancestors seem1 indeed1 almost to have revered good malt liquor4 ,richard ,atkinson gave the following excellent advice to ,leonard ,lord ,dacre in the year #aegj3 8,see that ye keep a noble house for beef and beer1 that thereof may be praise given to ,god and to your honour40 ,the same subject--comparison of sack with ale to the disadvantage of the former--is still better treated in an old ale song by ,beaumont2 it is such a good one of its kind that we give it in full3-- ,,answer ,,of ,,ale ,,to ,,the ,,challenge ,,of ,,sack4 ,come all you brave wights1 ,that are dubbed ale-knights1 ,now set out yourselves in sight2 ,and let them that crack ,in the presence of ,sack ,know ,malt is of mickle might4 ,though ,sack they define ,is holy divine1 ,yet it is but naturall liquor1 ,ale hath for its part ,an addition of art ,to make it drinke thinner or thicker4 ,sack2 fiery fume1 ,doth waste and consume ,men's humidum radicale2 ,it scaldeth their livers1 ,it breeds burning feavers1 ,proves vinum venenum reale4 ,but history gathers1 ,from aged forefathers1 ,that ,ale's the true liquor of life1 ,men lived long in health1 ,and preserved their wealth1 ,whilst ,barley broth only was rife4 #i ,sack1 quickly ascends1 ,and suddenly ends1 ,what company came for at first1 ,and that which yet worse is1 ,it empties men's purses ,before it half quenches their thirst4 ,ale1 is not so costly ,although that the most lye ,too long by the oyle of ,barley2 ,yet may they part late1 ,at a reasonable rate1 ,though they came in the morning early4 ,sack1 makes men from words ,fall to drawing of swords1 ,and quarrelling endeth their quaffing2 ,whilst dagger ale ,barrels ,beare off many quarrels ,and often turn chiding to laughing4 ,sack's drink for our masters1 ,all may be ,ale-tasters1 ,good things the more common the better1 ,sack's but single broth1 ,ale's meat1 drinke1 and cloathe1 ,say they that know never a letter4 ,but not to entangle ,old friends till they wrangle ,and quarrell for other men's pleasure2 ,let ,ale keep his place1 ,and let ,sack have his grace1 ,so that neither exceed the due measure4 8,wine is but single broth1 ale is meat1 drink and cloth10 was a proverbial saying in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries1 and occurs in many writings1 both prose and poetical4 ,john ,taylor1 for instance1 writes that ale is the 8warmest lining of a naked man's coat40 8,barley broth0 and 8oyle of barley0 were very common expressions for ale4 8,dagger ale0 was very strong malt liquor4 ,the word 8ale-tasters0 will be fully explained later on4 #aj ,the nearest approach in modern times to a denunciation of wine by an ale-favouring poet occurs in a few lines--by whom written we know not--cleverly satirising the introduction of cheap ,french wines into this country4 ,cheap clarets command1 thanks to an eminent statesman1 a considerable share of popular favour4 ,if unadulterated1 they are no doubt wholesome enough1 and suitable for some specially constituted persons4 ,let those who like them drink them1 by all means4 ,,malt ,,liquor1 ,,or ,,cheap ,,french ,,wines4 ,no ale or beer1 says ,gladstone1 we should drink1 ,because they stupefy and dull our brains4 ,but sour ,french wine1 as other people think1 ,our ,english stomachs often sorely pains4 ,the question then is which we most should dread1 ,an aching belly or an aching head8 ,among famous ale songs of the past1 ,jolly ,good ,ale and ,old1 which has been wrongly attributed to ,bishop ,still1 stands pre-eminent4 ,of the eight double stanzas composing the song1 four were incorporated in 8a ryght pithy1 plesaunt1 and merie comedie1 intytuled1 ,gammer ,gurton's ,nedle1 played on stage not longe ago1 in ,christe's ,colledge1 in ,cambridge4 ,made by ,mr4 ,s----1 ,master of ,art0 7#aege74 ,according to ,dyer1 who possessed a ,,ms41 giving the song in its complete form1 8it is certainly of an earlier date10 and could not have been by ,mr4 ,still 7afterwards ,bishop of ,bath and ,wells71 the ,master of ,trinity ,college1 who was probably the writer of the play4 ,the 8merrie comedie0 well illustrates the difference of tone and thought which divides those days from the present1 and it is a little difficult to understand how it could have been produced by the pen of a ,high ,church dignitary4 ,the prologue of the play is very quaint1 it runs thus3-- ,,prologue4 ,as ,gammer ,gurton1 with manye a wyde styche1 ,sat pesynge and patching of ,hodge her man's briche1 ,by chance or misfortune1 as shee her geare tost1 ,in ,hodge lether bryches her needle shee lost4 ,when ,diccon the bedlam had hard by report1 ,that good ,gammer ,gurton was robde in thys sorte1 ,he quyetlye perswaded with her in that stound1 ,dame ,chat1 her deare gossyp1 this needle had found4 ,yet knew shee no more of this matter1 alas1 #aa ,then knoweth ,tom our clarke what the ,priest saith at masse1 ,hereof there ensued so fearfull a fraye1 ,mas4 ,doctor was sent for1 these gossyps to staye2 ,because he was curate1 and esteemed full wyse1 ,who found that he sought not1 by ,diccon's device4 ,when all things were tumbled and cleane out of fashion1 ,whether it were by fortune1 or some other constellation1 ,suddenlye the neele ,hodge found by the prychynge1 ,and drew out of his buttocke1 where he found it stickynge1 ,theyr hartes then at rest with perfect securytie1 ,with a pot of ,good ale they stroake up theyr plauditie4 ,the song1 ,jolly ,good ,ale and ,old1 four stanzas of which occur in the second act1 is a good record of the spirit of those hard-drinking days1 now passed away1 in which a man who could not1 or did not1 consume vast quantities of liquor was looked upon as a milksop4 ,it is given as follows in the ,comedy3-- ,back and syde go bare1 go bare1 ,booth foote and hande go colde2 ,but belly1 ,god send thee good ale ynoughe1 ,whether it bee newe or olde4 ,i can not eate but lytle meate1 ,my stomache is not goode1 ,but1 sure1 ,i thinke1 that ,i can drynk ,with him that wears a hood4#b ,thoughe ,i go bare1 take ye no care1 ,i am nothynge a colde2 ,i stuffe my skyn so full within ,of jolly good ale1 and olde4 ,back and syde go bare1 go bare1 c41 c4 #c;,i love no rost1 but a nut-brown toste1 ,and a crab layde in the fyre2 ,a lytle bread shall do me stead1 ,much bread ,i not desyre4 #ab ,no froste nor snow1 no winde1 ,i trow1 ,can hurte mee if ,i wolde1 ,i am so wrapt1 and throwly lapt1 ,of joly good ale and olde4 ,back and syde go bare1 go bare1 c41 c4 ,and ,tyb1 my wife1 that as her lyfe ,loveth well good ale to seeke1 ,full ofte drinkes shee1 tyll ye may see1 ,the teares run down her cheekes2 ,then doth she trowle to mee the bowle#d ,even as a mault worme shuld ,and sayth1 sweet hart1 ,i tooke my part ,of this joly good ale1 and olde4 ,back and syde go bare1 go bare1 c41 c4 ,now let them drynke1 tyll they nod and winke1 ,even as good fellowes shoulde doe1 ,they shall not misse to have the blisse ,good ale doth bringe men to3 ,and all poor soules1 that have scoured boules1 ,or have them lustely trolde1 ,god save the lyves of them and their wyves1 ,whether they be yonge or olde4 ,back and syde go bare1 go bare1 c41 c4 #b ,alluding to the drunkenness of the clergy4 #c ,cf3 8,and sometimes lurk ,i in a gossip's bowl1 ,in very likeness of a roasted crab40 ,midsummer ,night's ,dream1 ,act ii4 ,scene #a4 #d ,the word 8trowle0 was used of passing the vessel about1 as appears by the beginning of an old catch3 ,trole1 trole the bowl to me1 ,and ,i will trole the same again to thee4 ,charles ,dibdin the younger has1 in a couple of verses1 told a very amusing little story of an old fellow who1 in addition to finding that ale was meat1 drink and cloth1 discovered that it included friends as well--or1 at any rate1 when he was without ale he was without friends1 which comes to much the same thing4 ,,the ,,barrel ,,of ,,humming ,,ale4 ,old ,owen lived on the brow of an hill1 ,and he had more patience than pelf2 ,a small plot of ground was his labour to till1 #ac ,and he toiled through the day by himself4 ,but at night crowds of visitors called at his cot1 ,for he told a right marvellous tale2 ,yet a stronger attraction by chance he had got1 ,a barrel of old humming ale4 ,old ,owen by all was an oracle thought1 ,while they drank not a joke failed to hit2 ,but ,owen at last by experience was taught1 ,that wisdom is better than wit4 ,one night his cot could scarce hold the gay rout1 ,the next not a soul heard his tale1 ,the moral is simply they'd fairly drank out ,his barrel of old humming ale4 ,for the sake of contrast with the foregoing songs1 if for nothing else1 the following poem 7save the mark67 by ,george ,arnold1 a ,boston rhymster1 is worthy of perusal4 ,the 8gurgle-gurgle0 of the athletic salmon-fisher1 described by ,mr4 ,francis1 is replaced by the 8idle sipping0 7fancy sipping beer67 of the beer-garden frequenter4 ,,beer4 ,here ,with my beer ,i sit1 ,while golden moments flit3 ,alas6 ,they pass ,unheeded by3 ,and1 as they fly1 ,i1 ,being dry1 ,sit1 idly sipping here ,my beer4 ,the new generation of ,american poets do not mean1 it would appear1 to be confined in the old metrical grooves4 ,very different in style are the verses written on ale by ,thomas ,wharton1 in #agdh4 ,a ,panegyric on ,oxford ,ale is the title of the poem1 which is prefaced by the lines from ,horace3-- ,mea nec ,falern ,temperant vites1 neque ,formiani ,pocula colles4 #ad ,the poem opens thus3-- ,balm of my cares1 sweet solace of my toils1 ,hail1 ,juice benignant6 ,o'er the costly cups ,of riot-stirring wine1 unwholesome draught1 ,let ,pride's loose sons prolong the wasteful night2 ,my sober evening let the tankard bless1 ,with toast embrown'd1 and fragrant nutmeg fraught1 ,while the rich draught with oft repeated whiffs ,tobacco mild improves4 ,divine repast6 ,where no crude surfeit1 or intemperate joys ,of lawless ,bacchus reigns2 but o'er my soul ,a calm ,lethean creeps2 in drowsy trance ,each thought subsides1 and sweet oblivion wraps ,my peaceful brain1 as if the leaden rod ,of magic ,morpheus o'er mine eyes had shed ,its opiate influence4 ,what though sore ills ,oppress1 dire want of chill-dispelling coals1 ,or cheerful candle 7save the makeweight's gleam ,haply remaining71 heart-rejoicing ,ale ,cheers the sad scene1 and every want supplies4 ,there exist1 sad to relate1 persons who1 with the notion of promoting temperance1 would rob us of our beer4 ,many of these individuals may act with good motives1 but they are weak1 misguided bodies who1 if they but devoted their energies to promoting ale-drinking as opposed to spirit-drinking1 would be doing useful service to the ,state1 for malt liquors are the true temperance drinks of the working classes4 ,the ,bill 7for the encouragement of private tippling7 so long sought to be introduced by the teetotal party1 was cleverly hit off in ,songs of the ,session1 published in ,the ,world some years back3-- 99 99 99 99 99 ,if with truth they assure us that liquors allure us1 ,i don't think 'twill cure us the taverns to close2 ,when in putting drink down1 sirs1 you've shut up the ,crown1 sirs1 ,you'll find ,smith and ,brown1 sirs1 drunk under the rose4 8,men are slaves to this custom10 you cry2 8we can't trust 'em60 ,very good2 then why thrust 'em from scenes where they're known ,if the daylight can't shame 'em1 or neighbours reclaim 'em1 ,do you think you can tame 'em in haunts of their own8 #ae ,and if in ,stoke ,pogis no publican lodges1 ,it don't follow ,hodge is cut off from good cheer2 ,in the very next parish the tap may be fairish1 ,and the vestry less bearish and stern about beer4 99 99 99 99 99 ,men in time will refrain when that goes with their grain2 ,till it does 'tis in vain that their wills you coerce2 ,for the man whom by force you turn out of his course1 ,without fear or remorse will soon take to a worse4 ,of course1 in asserting malt liquors to be the temperance drink1 or drink of the temperate1 it must be understood that we refer to the ordinary ales and beers of to-day1 in which the amount of alcohol is small1 and which are very different from the potent liquor drank by the topers of the past1 who were rightly designated malt worms4 ,it has been said that even pigs drank strong ale in those days1 but the only evidence of the truth of that statement is the tradition that ,herrick1 a most charming but little read poet1 succeeded in teaching a favourite pig to drink ale out of a jug4 ,old ale is now out of fashion1 its chief strongholds being the venerable centres of education4 ,we all know the tale of the don who1 about once a week1 reminded the butler of a certain understanding between them1 in these words3 8,mind1 when ,i say #8beer'--the old ale40 ,ancient writers are full of allusions to the potent character of the strong ales of their day4 ,nor are more modern authors wanting in that respect4 ,peter ,pindar1 who wrote during the reign of ,george ,,iii41 when ale was still of a 8mightie0 character1 thus sings3-- ,toper1 drink1 and help the house-- ,drink to every honest fellow2 ,life was never worth a louse ,to the man who ne'er was mellow4 ,how it sparkles6 here it goes6 ,ale can make a blockhead shine2 ,toper1 torchlike may thy nose ,light thy face up1 just like mine4 ,see old ,sol1 ,i like his notion1 ,with his whiskers all so red2 ,sipping1 drinking from the ocean1 ,boozing till he goes to bed4 #af ,yet poor beverage to regale6 ,simple stuff to help his race-- ,could he turn the sea to ,ale1 ,how 'twould make him mend his pace6 ,illustration3 ,,beer ,,street4 ,hogarth1 who was perhaps the most accurate and certainly the most powerful delineator of mankind's virtues and vices that the world has ever seen1 has left us in his pictures of 8,beer ,street0 and 8,gin ,lane0 striking illustrations of the advantages attending the use of our national beverage1 and the misery and want brought about by dram drinking4 ,in ,beer ,street everybody thrives1 and everything has an air of prosperity4 ,there is one exception--the pawnbroker1 gainer by the poverty of others4 ,he1 poor man1 with barricaded doors and #ag propped-up walls1 awaits in terror the arrival of the ,sheriff's officer1 fearing only that his house may collapse meanwhile4 ,through a hole in the door which he is afraid to open1 a potboy hands him a mug of ale1 at once the cause and consolation of his woes4 ,the bracket which supports the pawnbroker's sign is awry1 and threatens every minute to fall4 ,apart from this unfortunate all else flourishes4 ,the burly butcher1 seated outside the inn with no fear of the ,sheriff in his heart1 quaffs his pewter mug of foaming ale1 and casts now and again an eye on the artist who is repainting the signboard4 ,the sturdy smith1 the drayman1 the porter and the fishwife--all are well clad and prosperous4 ,houses are being built1 others are being repaired1 and health and wealth are visible on every side4 ,beer6 happy produce of our isle1 ,can sinewy strength impart1 ,and wearied with fatigue and toil1 ,can cheer each manly heart4 ,labour and art upheld by thee1 ,successfully advance1 ,we quaff thy balmy juice with glee2 ,and water leave to ,france4 ,genius of ,health6 thy grateful taste ,rivals the cup of ,jove1 ,and warms each ,english generous breast ,with liberty and love4 ,look now at the noisome slum where the demon ,gin reigns triumphant4 ,squalor1 poverty1 hunger1 wretchedness and sin are depicted on all sides4 ,here flourish the pawnbroker and the keeper of the gin-palace--but the picture is too speaking a one to need comment4 ,,gin4 ,gin6 cursed fiend with fury fraught1 ,makes human race a prey1 ,it enters by a deadly draught1 ,and steals our life away4 ,virtue and truth1 driven to despair1 ,its rage compels to fly1 ,but cherishes with hellish care1 ,theft1 murder1 perjury4 #ah ,damn'd cup that on the vitals preys1 ,that liquid fire contains1 ,which madness to the heart conveys1 ,and rolls it through the veins4 ,illustration3 ,,gin ,,lane4 ,a medical writer of some thirty years ago says3-- 8,there are well-meaning persons who wish now-a-days to rob1 not only the poor1 but the rich man of his beer4 ,i am content to remember that ,mary1 ,queen of ,scots1 was solaced in her dreary captivity at ,fotheringay by the brown beer of ,burton-on-,trent2 that holy ,hugh #ai ,latimer drank a goblet of spiced ale with his supper the night before he was burned alive2 that ,sir ,walter ,raleigh took a cool tankard with his pipe1 the last pipe of tobacco1 on the very morning of his execution2 and that one of the prettiest ladies with whom ,i have the honour to be acquainted1 when escorting her on an opera ,saturday to the ,crystal ,palace ,i falteringly suggested chocolate1 lemonade and vanilla ices for her refreshment1 sternly replied1 #8,nonsense1 sir6 ,get me a pint of stout immediately4' ,if the ladies only knew how much better they would be for their beer1 there would be fewer cases of consumption for quacks to demonstrate the curability of40 ,the question of beer drinking as opposed to total abstinence1 is one intimately connected with the welfare of the agricultural labourer4 ,the lives of the majority of these persons are1 it is to be feared1 somewhat dull and cheerless4 ,from early morn to dewy eve--work2 the only prospect in old age--the workhouse4 ,weary in mind and body1 the labourer returns to his cottage at nightfall4 ,at supper he takes his glass of mild ale4 ,it nourishes him1 and the alcohol it contains1 of so small a quantity as to be absolutely harmless1 invigorates him and causes the too often miserable surroundings to appear bright and cheerful4 ,contentedly he smokes his pipe1 chats sociably with his wife1 and forgets for awhile the many long days of hard work in store for him4 ,soon the soporific influence of the hop begins to take effect1 and the toiler retires to rest1 to sleep soundly1 forgetful of the cares of life4 ,then there is ,saturday night1 when the villagers meet at the alehouse1 not perhaps so much to drink as to converse1 and1 with church-wardens in mouth and tankard at elbow1 to settle the affairs of the ,state4 ,the newspaper1 a week old1 is produced1 and one1 probably the village tailor or maybe the barber1 reads passages from it4 8,a party of fuddled rustics in a beer-shop10 exclaims the teetotaler1 with a sneer4 ,not so2 one or two may have had their pewter tankards filled more often than is prudent1 but the majority will be moderate1 drinking no more than is good for them4 ,drunkenness and crime are not the outcome of the village alehouse2 for them1 go to the gin-palaces of the towns4 ,nothing1 we feel certain1 more tends to keep our agricultural labourers from intemperance than the easy means of obtaining cheap but pure beer4 ,what we may term temperance legislation 7unless it be of a criminal character1 punishing excess by fines7 will always defeat its own object4 ,shut up the alehouses1 ,sundays or week-days1 and the poorer classes at once take to dram drinking4 ,this subject will be found fully considered in the last chapter4 #bj ,one does not hear much now-a-days of that gallant ,knight1 ,sir ,john ,barleycorn4 ,the song writers of the past were1 however1 loud in his praises1 and ,sir ,john used to be as favourite a myth with the people of ,england as was our patron saint1 ,st4 ,george4 ,elton's play of ,paul the ,poacher commences with the following charming verses3-- ,,ode ,,to ,,sir ,,john ,,barleycorn4 ,though the ,hawthorn the pride of our hedges may be1 ,and the rose our gardens adorn1 ,yet the flower that's sweetest and fairest to me1 ,is the bearded ,barleycorn4 ,then hey for the ,barleycorn1 ,the ,bonny ,barleycorn1 ,no grain or flower ,has half the power ,of the ,bearded ,barleycorn4 ,tho' the purple juice of the grape ne'er find ,its way to the cup of horn1 ',tis little ,i care--for the draught to my mind1 ,is the blood of the ,barleycorn4 ,then hey1 c4 ,tho' the ,justice1 the ,parson and eke the ,squire1 ,may flout us and hold us in scorn1 ,our staunch boon friend1 the best ,knight in the shire1 ,is stout ,sir ,john ,barleycorn4 ,then hey for ,john ,barleycorn1 ,the merry ,john ,barleycorn1 ,search round and about1 ,what ,knight's so stout ,as bold ,sir ,john ,barleycorn8 ,a whimsical old pamphlet1 the writer of which must have possessed keen powers of observation1 is 8,the ,arraigning and ,indicting of ,sir ,john ,barleycorn1 ,knight1 printed for ,timothy ,tosspot40 ,sir ,john is described as of noble blood1 well-beloved in ,england1 a great support to the ,crown1 and a maintainer of both rich and poor4 ,the trial takes place at the sign of the 8,three ,loggerheads10 before ,oliver #ba and ,old ,nick his holy father4 ,sir ,john1 of course1 pleads not guilty to the charges made against him1 which are1 in effect1 that he has compassed the death of several of his ,majesty's loving subjects1 and brought others to ruin4 ,vulcan the blacksmith1 ,will the weaver1 and ,stitch the tailor1 are called by the prosecution1 and depose that after being first friendly with ,sir ,john1 they quarrel with him1 and in the end get knocked down1 bruised1 their bones broken1 and their pockets picked4 ,mr4 ,wheatley1 the baker1 complains that1 whereas he was the most esteemed by ,lords1 ,knights and ,squires1 he is now supplanted by the prisoner4 ,sir ,john1 being called on for his defence1 asks that his brother ,malt may be summoned1 and indicates that the fault1 if any1 lies mostly at ,malt's door4 ,malt is thereupon summoned1 and thus addresses the ,court3-- 8,my ,lords1 ,i thank you for the liberty you now indulge me with1 and think it a great happiness1 since ,i am so strongly accused1 that ,i have such learned judges to determine these complaints4 ,as for my part1 ,i will put the matter to the ,bench--,first1 ,i pray you consider with yourselves1 all tradesmen would live2 and although ,master ,malt does make sometimes a cup of good liquor1 and many men come to taste it1 yet the fault is neither in me nor my brother ,john1 but in such as those who make this complaint against us1 as ,i shall make it appear to you all4 8,in the first place1 which of you all can say but ,master ,malt can make a cup of good liquor1 with the help of a good brewer2 and when it is made1 it will be sold4 ,i pray you which of you all can live without it8 ,but when such as these1 who complain of us1 find it to be good1 then they have such a greedy mind1 that they think they never have enough1 and this overcharge brings on the inconveniences complained of1 makes them quarrelsome one with another1 and abusive to their very friends1 so that we are forced to lay them down to sleep4 ,from hence it appears it is from their own greedy desires all these troubles arise1 and not from wicked designs of our own40 ,court4--8,truly we cannot see that you are in the fault4 ,sir ,john ,barleycorn1 we will show you as much favour that1 if you can bring any person of reputation to speak to your character1 the court is disposed to acquit you4 ,bring in your evidence1 and let us hear what they can say in your behalf40 ,thomas the ,ploughman4--8,may ,i be allowed to speak my thoughts freely1 since ,i shall offer nothing but the truth80 ,court4--8,yes1 thou mayest be bold to speak the truth1 and no #bb more1 for that is the cause we sit here for2 therefore speak boldly1 that we may understand thee40 ,ploughman4--8,gentlemen1 ,sir ,john is of an ancient house1 and is come of a noble race2 there is neither lord1 knight1 nor squire1 but they love his company and he theirs3 as long as they don't abuse him he will abuse no man1 but doth a great deal of good4 ,in the first place1 few ploughmen can live without him2 for if it were not for him we should not pay our landlords their rent2 and then what could such men as you do for money and clothes8 ,nay1 your gay ladies would care but little for you if you had not your rents coming in to maintain them2 and we could never pay but that ,sir ,john ,barleycorn feeds us with money2 and you would not seek to take away his life8 ,for shame6 let your malice cease and pardon his life1 or else we are all undone40 ,bunch the ,brewer4--8,gentlemen1 ,i beseech you1 hear me4 ,my name is ,bunch1 a brewer2 and ,i believe few of you can live without a cup of good liquor1 nor more than ,i can without the help of ,sir ,john ,barleycorn4 ,as for my own part1 ,i maintain a great charge and keep a great many men at work2 ,i pay taxes forty pounds a-year to his ,majesty1 ,god bless him1 and all this is maintained by the help of ,sir ,john2 then how can any man for shame seek to take away his life80 ,mistress ,hostess4--8,to give evidence on behalf of ,sir ,john ,barleycorn gives me pleasure1 since ,i have an opportunity of doing justice to so honourable a person4 ,through him the administration receives large supplies2 he likewise greatly supports the labourer1 and enlivens his conversation4 ,what pleasure could there be at a sheep-clipping without his company1 or what joy at a feast without his assistance8 ,i know him to be an honest man1 and he never abused any man if they abused not him4 ,if you put him to death all ,england is undone1 for there is not another in the land can do as he can do1 and hath done2 for he can make a cripple go1 the coward fight1 and a soldier feel neither hunger nor cold4 ,i beseech you1 gentlemen1 let him live1 or else we are all undone2 the nation likewise will be distressed1 the labourer impoverished1 and the husbandman ruined40 ,court4--8,gentlemen of the jury1 you have now heard what has been offered against ,sir ,john ,barleycorn1 and the evidence that has been produced in his defence4 ,it you are of opinion that he is guilty of those wicked crimes laid to his charge1 and has with malice prepense conspired and brought about the death of several of his ,majesty's loving subjects1 you are then to find him guilty2 but1 if1 on the contrary1 you are of #bc opinion that he had no real intention of wickedness1 and was not the immediate1 but only the accidental cause of these evils laid to his charge1 then1 according to the statute law of this kingdom you ought to acquit him40 ,verdict--,not ,guilty4 ,a somewhat lengthy extract has been given from the report of the trial1 because the facetious little narrative contains a moral as applicable at the present time as on the day on which the worthy ,knight was acquitted4 ,and now1 dear reader1 your introduction to ,sir ,john ,barleycorn being complete1 it is for you1 should the inclination be present1 to become acquainted with all that pertains to him1 from the barley-wine of the ,egyptians and other nations of the far past to those excellent beverages in which the people of this country do now delight4 ,on the way you will meet with strange things and strange people1 queer customs and quaint sayings and songs2 you will watch malting and brewing as it was carried on five hundred years ago2 you will stand by while the ,flemings1 who have just come to ,london1 brew beer with the assistance of a 8wicked weed called hoppes20 meanwhile ,parliament will re-enact strange sumptuary laws and order that you brew only two kinds of ale or beer2 you will be at times in the bad company of dissolute alewives who will whisper sad scandals in your ear2 fleeing from them1 you will find yourself in a solemn place where lines on stone tell how1 when he lived1 he brewed good ale2 then being perhaps sad at heart1 you shall pass into the village ale-house and join the ploughboys in their merry chorus1 or sit awhile with the roystering blades in some ,london tavern2 later you shall see the sign and learn its signification and history1 and delay a moment to read the verses over the door and admire the quaint architecture and curious carving4 ,in the ale-house you will have tasted and drank wisely1 let it be hoped1 of ,london or ,dublin black beer1 of ,plymouth white ale1 of old ,nappy and ,yorkshire ,stingo1 and as many more as your head can stand4 ,then you shall take part in ancient ceremonies--wassailing1 ,church ales1 bride ales1 and the like2 the merry sheep-shearers will sing for you1 and for you the villagers shall dance round the ale-stake2 then the old ballad-writers will lay before you their ballads praising ale1 and headed with wood-cuts1 humorous1 but sometimes fearful to look upon4 ,having rested awhile in perusing these relics of the past1 the doors of ,john ,barleycorn's greatest palaces will fly open before you1 and while exploring these wonders of the present1 you will chat pleasantly with #bd their founders1 ,dr4 ,johnson joining in with ponderous remarks on the brewery of his friend ,thrale4 ,the history of porter shall then be unfolded to you1 after which you shall be introduced to the college butler1 who is in the very act of compounding a noble wassail-bowl1 and who1 good man1 whispers in your willing ear instructions for the making of a score or more of ale-cups2 then the old ,saxon leeches and their successors shall be summoned1 and1 in a language strange to modern ears1 they shall relate how ale and certain herbs will cure all diseases2 then shall you see a curious but not a wondrous sight--water passing through holes in teetotal arguments2 and lastly the great ,french savant shall take you into his laboratory1 and shall make you see in a grain of yeast a world of wonders4 ,last of all we beg you to treasure up in your memory these old lines3-- ,he that buys land buys many stones1 ,he that buys flesh buys many bones1 ,he that buys eggs buys many shells1 ,but he that buys good ale buys nothing else4 ,illustration #be ,illustration ,,chapter ,,ii4 8,what hath been and now is used by the ,english1 as well since the ,conquest1 as in the days of the ,britons1 ,saxons and ,danes40--,drinke and ,welcome4--,taylor4 8,not of an age1 but for all time40--,ben ,jonson4 ,,origin ,,and ,,antiquity ,,of ,,ale ,,and ,,beer ,we must go back several thousand years into the past to trace the origin of our modern ale and beer4 ,the ancient ,egyptians1 as we learn from the ,book of the ,dead1 a treatise at least #e1jjj years old1 understood the manufacture of an intoxicating liquor from grain4 ,this liquor they called hek1 and under the slightly modified form hemki the name has been used in ,egypt for beer until comparatively modern times4 ,an ancient ,egyptian medical manual1 of about the same date as the ,book of the ,dead1 contains frequent mention of the use of ,egyptian beer in medicine1 and at a period about #a1jjj years later1 the papyri afford conclusive evidence of the existence even in that early age1 of a burning liquor question in ,egypt1 for it is recorded that intoxication had become so common that many of the beer shops had to be suppressed4 ,herodotus1 after stating that the ,egyptians used 8wine made from barley0 because there were no vines in the country1 mentions a tradition that ,osiris1 the ,egyptian ,bacchus1 first taught the ,egyptians how to brew1 to compensate them for the natural deficiencies of their native land4 ,herodotus1 however1 was frequently imposed upon by the persons from whom he derived his narrative1 and no trace of any such tradition is to be found elsewhere4 ,wine was undoubtedly made in ,egypt two or three thousand years before his time4 #bf ,it is maintained by some that the ,hebrew word sicera1 which occurs in the ,bible and is in our version translated 8strong drink10 was none other than the barley-wine mentioned in ,herodotus1 and that the ,israelites brought from ,egypt the knowledge of its use4 ,certain it is that they understood the manufacture of sicera shortly after the exodus1 for we find in ,leviticus that the priests are forbidden to drink wine or 8strong drink0 before they go into the tabernacle1 and in the ,book of ,numbers the ,nazarenes are required not only to abstain from wine and 8strong drink10 but even from vinegar made from either2 and in all the passages where the word occurs it is formally distinguished from wine4 ,it may be mentioned in passing1 that this word sicera has been regarded as being the equivalent of the word cider4 ,the passage in ,numbers is translated in ,tyndale's version1 8,they shall drink neither wyn ne sydyr10 and it is this rendering that has earned for ,tyndale's translation the name of the cider ,bible4 ,it seems highly probable that the word sicera signified any intoxicating liquor other than wine1 whether made from corn1 honey or fruit4 ,in support of the theory that beer was known amongst the ,jews1 may be mentioned the ,rabbinical tradition that the ,jews were free from leprosy during the captivity in ,babylon by reason of their drinking 8siceram veprium1 id est1 ex lupulis confectam10 or sicera made with hops1 which one would think could be no other than bitter beer4 ,speaking of this old ,egyptian barley-wine1 ,aeschylus seems to imply that it was not held in very high esteem1 for he says that only the women-kind would drink it4#e ,evidently the phrase1 8to be learned in all the learning of the ,egyptians10 had no reference to a competent knowledge of brewing4 ,before leaving the land of the ,pharaoh1 it may be mentioned that in that country the labourers still drink a kind of beer extracted from unmalted barley4 ,a traveller in ,egypt some years ago recorded in one of the ,london daily papers that his crew on the ,nile made an intoxicating liquor from the fermentation of bread in water2 he says that it was called boozer1 but whether by himself or crew is not clear4 #bg #e ,aesch4 ,supp4 #iec4 ,a goodly number of instances may be found in various old ,greek writers of the mention of barley-wine under the various terms of 1#f 1 1 but it does not appear that beer was ever a popular beverage in ,hellas4 ,further north1 the ,thracians1 as ,archilochus tells1 brewed and drank a good deal of beer4 #f ,hipp4 #cie4 #a1 ,athen4 #a #aj1 ,aesch4 ,fr4 #aaf1 ,archil4 #bh4 ,among the ,greek writers1 ,xenophon gives the most interesting and complete account of beer in the year #dja ,b4,c4 ,in describing the retreat of the ,ten ,thousand1 he tells how1 on approaching a certain village in ,armenia which had been allotted to him1 he selected the most active of his troops1 and making a sudden descent upon the place captured all the villagers and their headman4 ,one man alone escaped--the bridegroom of the headman's daughter1 who had been married nine days1 and was gone out to hunt hares4 ,the snow was six feet deep at the time4 ,xenophon goes on to describe the dwellings of this singular people4 ,their houses were under ground1 the entrance like that of a well1 but wide below4 ,there were entrances dug out for the cattle1 but the men used to get down by a ladder4 ,and in the houses were goats1 sheep1 oxen1 fowls and their young ones1 and all the animals were fed inside with fodder4 ,and there was wheat1 and barley1 and pulse1 and barley-wine 7 7 in bowls4 ,and the malt1 too1 itself was in the bowl1 and level with the brim4 ,and reeds lay in it1 some long1 some short1 with no joints1 and when anyone was thirsty he had to take a reed in his hand and suck4 ,the liquor was very strong1 says ,xenophon1 unless one poured water into it1 and the drink was pleasant to one accustomed to it4 ,and whenever anyone in friendliness wished to drink to his comrade1 he used to drag him to the bowl1 where he must stoop down and drink1 gulping it down like an ox4 ,the inhabitants of the ,khanns district of ,armenia1 through which ,xenophon's world-famed march was made1 still pursue much the same life as they did more than two thousand years ago4 ,they live in these curious subterranean dwellings with all their live stock about them1 but1 alas6 modern travellers aver that they have lost the art of making barley-wine4 ,enough has been said as to the use of beer among ,eastern nations to disprove the theory of the old author of the ,haven of ,health1 who asserts1 quoting 8,master ,eliote0 as his authority1 that ale was never used as a common drink in any other country than in 8,england1 ,scotland1 ,ireland1 and ,poile40 #bh ,ale or beer was in common use in ,germany in the time of ,tacitus1 and ,pliny1 who may have tasted beer while serving in the army in ,germany1 says1 8,all the nations who inhabit the west of ,europe have a liquor with which they intoxicate themselves1 made of corn and water 7fruge madida74 ,the manner of making this liquor is somewhat different in ,gaul1 ,spain1 and other countries1 and it is called by various names2 but its nature and properties are everywhere the same4 ,the people of ,spain in particular brew this liquor so well that it will keep good for a long time4 ,so exquisite is the ingenuity of mankind in gratifying their vicious appetites1 that they have thus invented a method of making water itself intoxicate40 ,among the many various kinds of drink so made were zythum1 clia1 ceria1 ,cereris vinum1 curmi1 and cerevisia4 ,all these names1 except zythum1 are probably merely local variations of one word1 whose ,british representative may be found in the ,welsh cwrw4 ,turning to the earliest records of the use of malt liquors in this country1 we find that1 according to ,diodorus ,siculus1 the ,britons made use of a very simple diet which consisted chiefly of milk and venison4 ,their usual drink was water2 but upon festive occasions they drank a kind of fermented liquor1 made of barley1 honey1 or apples1 and were very quarrelsome in their cups4 ,dioscorides wrote in the first century that the ,britons1 instead of wine1 use 8curmi10 a liquor made from barley4 ,pytheas 7#cjj ,b4,c47 said a fermented grain liquor was made in ,thule4 ,the drinks in use in this island at the time of its conquest by the ,romans seem to have been metheglin1 cider1 and ale4 ,metheglin1 or mead1 was probably the most ancient and universally used of all intoxicating drinks among ,european nations4 ,cider is in all probability the next in order of antiquity of the drinks in use amongst our ,celtic predecessors4 ,it was made from wild apples1 but its use was probably not so wide-spread as that of either mead or ale4 ,the two drinks1 mead and cider1 are appropriate to nations who have made but slight advances on the path of civilisation4 ,tribes of nomads1 or of hunters1 would find the wherewithal for their manufacture--the honey in the hollow tree1 the crabs growing wild in the woods4 ,the manufacture of ale1 however1 indicates another step forward2 it implies the settlement in particular districts1 and the knowledge and practice of agriculture4 ,it is1 therefore1 not surprising to find that the ,celtic inhabitants of the midland and northern parts of this country1 at the time of the first ,roman attack1 knew no drink but mead and cider2 while1 in the southern districts1 where contact with #bi the outer world had brought about a somewhat more advanced civilisation and a more settled mode of life1 agriculture was practised1 and cerevisia1 or ale1 was added to the list of beverages4 ,given below is a metrical version of the origin of ale4 ,it is put in this place between the account of the use of ale by the ,britons and its use by the ,saxons1 because our anonymous poet does not seem to have quite made up his mind whether he is recording a ,british or a ,saxon myth4 ,the name of the king would seem to point to a ,british origin1 whilst some of the gods on whom he calls are ,teutonic4 ,,the ,,origin ,,of ,,beer4 ,in a jolly field of barley good ,king ,cambrinus slept1 ,and dreaming of his thirsty realm the merry monarch wept1 8,in all my land of ,netherland there grows no mead or wine1 ,and water ,i could never coax adown this throat of mine4 8,now list to me1 ye heathen gods1 and eke ye ,christian too1 ,both ,zernebock and ,jupiter1 and ,mary clad in blue2 ,and mighty ,thor the ,thunderer1 and any else that be1 ,the one who aids me in my need his servant ,i will be40 ,and as this sinful heathen all in the barley lay1 ,there came in dreams an angel bright who soft these words did say-- 8,arise1 thou poor ,cambrinus1 for even all around1 ,in the barley where thou sleepest a nectar may be found4 8,in the barley where thou sleepest there hides a nectar clear1 ,which men shall know in later times as porter1 ale or beer40 ,then in terms the most explicit he 8put the monarch through10 ,and gave him ere the dream was out the recipe to brew4 ,uprose good ,king ,cambrinus and shook him in the sun4 8,away1 ye wretched heathen gods--with you ,i'm quit and done6 ,ye've left me with my subjects in error and in thirst2 ,till in our dreadful dryness we scarce know which is worst40 ,it was the good ,cambrinus unto his palace went1 ,and messengers through all the land unto his lords he sent1 8,leave ,odin1 under pain of death60--his orders were severe1 ,yet touched with mildness--for he sent the recipe for beer4 #cj ,oh1 then a merry sound was heard of building through the land1 ,and the churches and the breweries went up on every hand2 ,for the masons they were hard at work where'er a spot seemed pat1 ,and some had bricks within their hods1 and some within their hats4 ,in the sister ,island are to be found very early references to ale4 ,the ,senchus ,mor1 which contains some of the oldest and most important of the ancient laws of ,ireland1 has the following passages in which mention of this drink occurs3-- 8,what is a human banquet8 ,the banquet of each one's feasting-house to his chief according to his due 7i4e41 the chief's71 to which his 7i4e41 the tenant's7 deserts entitle him2 viz41 a supper with ale1 a feast without ale1 a feast by day4 ,the feast without ale is divided2 it is distributed according to dignity2 the feeding of the assembly of the forces of a territory1 assembled for the purpose of demanding proof and law1 and answering to illegality4 ,suppers with ale1 feasts without ale1 are the fellowship of the ,feini40 ,it is difficult to understand the ideas contained in these old ,erse laws and customs1 but the main thing for the present purpose is the evidence they give that ale was known and commonly used in ,ireland as early as the fifth century4#g ,from the ,brehon law tracts it may be gathered that the privileges of an ,irish king included the right to have his ale supplied him with food2#h he was also to have a brave army and an inebriating ale-house4 ,the ,irish chief is always to have two casks in his house1 one of ale1 another of milk2 he should also have three sacks--a sack of malt1 a sack of salt1 and a sack of charcoal4 #g ,the ,senchus ,mor was composed in the time of ,lghaire1 son of ,niall1 ,king of ,erin1 about ,a4,d4 #dcj1 a few years after the arrival of ,st4 ,patrick in ,ireland4 #h ,doubtless an allusion to the old food rents once common in ,ireland4 ,wales was also to some extent an ale-producing country1 and we find in ,anglo-,saxon times ,welsh ale frequently alluded to as a luxury4 ,when ,offa renders the lands at ,westbury and ,stanbury to the church of ,worcester1 he accepts at ,westbury these services3 #b tunne full of clear ,ale1 and a cumbe 7#af quarts7 full of smaller ,ale1 and a cumbe of ,welsh ,ale1 besides other services4 ,there was a payment to the said church also out of the lands at ,breodune of #c cuppes full of ,ale1 #aaa dolea ,brytannic cervissi 7i4e41 casks of ,british ,ale71 and #c hogsheads of #ca ,welsh ,ale1 quorum unum fit melle dulcoratum 7i4e41 of which one was to be sweetened with honey74 ,henry1 in his ,history of ,england1 in treating of the drinks used in ,england and ,wales during five centuries before the ,norman ,conquest1 remarks on the rarity of the use of ale in ,wales at that time4 8,mead10 he says1 8was still one of their favourite liquors1 and bore a high price2 for a cask of mead1 by the laws of ,wales1 was valued at #abj pence1 equal in quantity of silver to thirty shillings of our present money1 and in efficacy to fifteen pounds4 ,the dimensions of a cask of mead must be nine palms in height1 and so capacious as to serve the ,king and one of his counsellors for a bathing tub40 ,by another law its diameter is fixed at eighteen palms4 ,the ,welsh had also two kinds of ale1 called common ale and spiced ale1 and their value was thus ascertained by law--8,if a farmer hath no mead 7to pay part of his rent7 he shall pay two casks of spiced ale1 or four casks of common ale for one cask of mead40 ,by the same law1 a cask of spiced ale1 nine palms in height and eighteen palms in diameter1 was valued at a sum equal in efficacy to seven pounds ten shillings of our present money2 and a cask of common ale1 of the same dimensions1 at a sum equal to three pounds fifteen shillings4 ,this is a sufficient proof that even common ale at this period was an article of luxury among the ,welsh which could only be obtained by the great and opulent4 ,wine seems to have been quite unknown even to the ,kings of ,wales at this period1 as it is not so much as once mentioned in their laws2 though ,giraldus ,cambrensis1 who flourished about a century after the ,conquest1 acquaints us that there was a vineyard in his time1 at ,maenarper1 near ,pembroke1 in ,south ,wales4 ,before leaving the subject of the ,british use of ale1 it will perhaps amuse some of our readers to find that the very name of ,britain has been derived by some from the word 1 the ,greek for beer4 ,the following extract from ,hearne's ,discourses is a good instance of that reckless ingenuity in guessing derivations1 for which our older school of philologists was ever so justly famed3--8,there is one thing10 he says1 8which upon this occasion the antiquaries should have observed1 and that is our ,mault ,liquor1 called in ,athenus4 ,which being so1 it is humbly offered to the consideration of more judicious persons whether our ,britannia might not be denominated from 1 the whole nation being famous for such sort of drink4 ',tis true1 ,athenus does not mention the ,britains among those that drunk mault drink2 and the reason is1 because he had not met with any writer that had #cb celebrated them upon that account1 whereas the others that he mentions to drink it were put down in his ,authors4 ,nor will it seem a wonder1 that even those people he speaks of were not called ,britaines from the said liquor1 since it was not their constant and common drink1 but was only used by them upon occasion1 whereas it was always made use of in ,britain1 and it was looked upon as peculiar to this ,island1 and other liquors were esteemed as foreign1 and not so agreeable to the nature of the country4 ,and ,i have some reason to think that those few other people that drunk it abroad did it only in imitation of the ,britains1 though we have no records remaining upon which to ground this opinion40 ,it is rather unfortunate that1 in the cause of science1 our author did not inform us what that 8some reason to think0 of his in fact was4 ,however1 let us honour his patriotism if we may not his learning4 ,it would appear that ale and beer were different words signifying the same thing1 ale being the ,saxon ealu and ,danish l1 probably connected with our word oil1 and beer being the ,saxon beor4 ,horne ,tooke1 in his ,diversions of ,purley1 says that 8ale0 is derived from a ,saxon verb lan1 which signifies to inflame4 ,the word 8beer0 has been the occasion of some ingenuity and not a little diversity of opinion among the philologists4 ,goldast derived it a pyris1 because 7he asserts7 beer was first made from pears2 ,vossius from the ,latin bibere1 to drink1 thus3 ,bibere1 ,biber and 7extrito b7 ,bier2 ,somner from the ,hebrew ,bar1 corn4 ,probably the true derivation is that which connects the word with the root of the verb1 to brew4 ,however this may be1 the connection of the word barley with the word beere--denoting a coarse kind of barley--is unmistakeable4 ,beer was originally used to denote the beverage and also the plant from which it was brewed4 ,beere or bigge is still to be found growing in some parts of ,scotland and ,ireland1 but in ,england it has given place to the more refined barley 7i4e41 beer-lec or beer plant74 ,the attempt to connect the word 8yule0 with 8ale0 is probably fanciful1 and may have originated from the use of the word 8ale0 as denoting not only the liquor1 but also any festival at which it formed the principal beverage 7e4g4 the ,whitsun ,ale74 ,yule or ,jule is probably derived1 along with the festival it represents1 from the ,celts4 ,it was a feast in honour of the sun1 the ,celtic name for which was heol or houl and was designed to celebrate the time when the ,sun-god1 after sinking to his lowest point in the heavens in mid-winter1 begins again to ascend the sky1 ushering in a period of warmth and plenty4 ,when the ,saxons #cc were converted to ,christianity1 their teachers1 instead of entirely doing away with the older forms of religion1 allowed them to remain1 adapting them to the new faith4 ,this was very usual in early days of ,christianity1 and thus we find the heathen 8,yule0 merged in the great ,christian festival of ,christmas4 ,the very ancient ,anglo-,saxon poem entitled ,beowulf1 a poem which may be said to be the earliest considerable fragment of our language now extant1 shows that ale was the chief drink amongst our ,anglo-,saxon ancestors in the far-off days1 before they had seized upon this land of ,england4 ,it contains a mythological account of the rescue by the hero ,beowulf of his friends from the ,grendel1 a monster who was constantly slaughtering and carrying some of them away4 ,the feast is thus described3 8,then was for the sons of the ,geats1 altogether1 a bench cleared in the beer-hall2 there the bold in spirit went to sit2 the thane observed his office1 he that in his hand bare the twisted ale-cup2 he poured the bright sweet liquor40 ,further on1 the ,danish queen comes in to greet the victors4 8,there was laughter of heroes1 the noise was modulated1 words were winsome2 ,wealtheow1 ,hrothgar's queen1 went forth2 mindful of their races1 she1 hung round with gold1 greeted the men in the hall2 and the freeborn lady gave the cup first to the prince of the ,east ,danes2 she bade him be blithe at the service of beer1 dear to his people4 ,he1 the king1 proud of victory1 joyfully received the feast and hall-cup 4 4 40 ,that it was customary among our ancestors for the lady of the house herself to fill the guests' cups after dinner1 may be gathered from the poem called the ,geste of ,kyng ,horn1 which in its present form is of thirteenth century date1 but is probably founded upon a much earlier work4 ,the poem thus describes ,rymenhild1 the queen and wife of ,king ,horn1 performing this duty3-- ,rymenhild ros of benche ,wyn for to schenche2#i ,after mete in sale1#aj ,bothe wyn and ale4 ,on horn he bar in honde4 ,so laye was in londe1#aa #cd ,knightes and squier ,alle dronken of the ber4 #i ,schenche to pour out4 #aj ,sale hall4 #aa ,a horn she bare in her hand1 ,so was the custom in the land4 ,these lines also show that ale and beer were used at that time as interchangeable words4 ,our ,saxon ancestors seem to have made use of several kinds of beverage2 they had wine and mead1 cider1 which they called ppelwin1 and piment1 which was a compound of wine1 honey1 and spices4 ,ale and beer1 however1 seem1 to use the quaint words of old ,harrison1 to have 8borne the brunt in drincking10 and to have formed the national beverage of the ,english people from the earliest times to the present day4 ,ale1 honest ,english ale1 was the general drink1 and wine was a luxury of the rich1 as may be gathered from the old ,anglo-,saxon dialogue1 entitled ,alfric's ,colloquy1 in which a lad1 on being asked what his drink is1 replies1 8,ale1 if ,i have it1 water1 if ,i have it not40 ,to the question why he does not drink wine his answer is1 8,i am not so rich that ,i can buy me wine2 and wine is not the drink of children or the weak-minded1 but of the elders and the wise40 ,the ,exeter ,book1 which contains a collection of ,anglo-,saxon songs and poems1 and was presented to the church at ,exeter by ,bishop ,leofric in the eleventh century1 contains one of those curious rhyming riddles so popular among the ,saxons1 which were known as ,symposii nigmata4 ,it is as follows3-- ,a part of the earth is ,prepared beautifully1 ,with the hardest1 ,and with the sharpest1 ,and with the grimmest ,of the productions of men1 ,cut and 4 4 4 4 ,turned and dried1 ,bound and twisted1 ,bleached and awakened1 ,ornamented and poured out1 ,carried afar ,to the doors of the people1 ,it is joy in the inside ,of living creatures1 ,it knocks and slights ,those1 of whom while alive #ce ,a long while ,it obeys the will1 ,and expostulateth not1 ,and then after death ,it takes upon it to judge1 ,to talk variously4 ,it is greatly to seek1 ,by the wisest man1 ,what this creature is4 ,those who remember the more elaborate legend of ,john ,barleycorn will not have far to seek for the solution of this somewhat ponderous riddle4 ,the ,anglo-,saxons1 before their conversion to ,christianity1 believed that some of the chief blessings to be enjoyed by departed heroes were the frequent and copious draughts of ale served round to them in the halls of ,odin4 ,even after the spread of ,christianity had dispelled this heathen notion1 all the evidence available seems to point rather to an enlarged than a diminished consumption of malt liquors4 ,whether our forefathers1 practically-minded like their descendants1 resolved to make up here upon earth for the loss of the expected joys of which their new creed had robbed them1 it is impossible at this distance of time to determine2 but certain it is that the popularity of our national beverage has gone on increasing from that day to this4 ,in these early days rents were not infrequently paid in ale4 ,in #heb the ,abbot of ,medeshampstede 7,peterborough7 let certain lands at ,sempringham to one ,wulfred1 on this condition1 amongst others1 that he should each year deliver to the minster two tuns of pure ale and ten mittans 7measures7 of ,welsh ale4 ,the ale-gafol mentioned in the laws of ,ine was a tribute or rent of ale paid by the tenant to the lord of the manor4 ,by an ancient charter granted in the time of ,king ,alfred1 the tenants of ,hysseburne1 amongst other services1 rendered six church-mittans of ale4 ,ale was also in olden days frequently liable to the payment of a toll 7tollester7 to the lord of the manor4 ,in a ,gloucestershire manor it was customary for a tenant holding in villeinage to pay as toll to the lord gallons of ale1 whenever he brewed ale to sell4 ,at ,fiskerton1 in ,notts1 if #cf an ale-wife brews ale to sell she is to satisfy the lord for tollester4 ,in the manor of ,tidenham1 in ,saxon times the villein is to pay to the lord at the ,martinmass six sesters of malt2 and in the same manor1 in the reign of ,edward ,i41 we find the rent changed into a toll1 the tenant at the later period being bound to render to the lord #h gallons of beer at every brewing4 ,similarly1 wages were in some manors paid in kind4 ,at ,brissingham1 ,norfolk1 the tenants1 amongst other services1 might perform #abe ale-beeves in the year1 i4e41 carting-days1 on which attendance was not compulsory1 but on which the tenants1 if they did attend1 were entitled to bread and ale in lieu of wages4 ,the word 8bever0 still occurs in some places1 denoting a harvest-man's drink between breakfast and dinner4 ,the ,saxons and ,danes were of a social disposition1 and delighted in forming themselves into fraternities or guilds4 ,an important feature of these institutions was the meeting for convivial purposes1 and their object was to promote good fellowship among the members4 ,the laws for the regulation of some of these bodies are still in existence1 and it seems were enforced by fines of honey1 or malt1 to be used in the making of mead or ale for the use of the members of the confraternity4 ,it seems that both clergy and laity were members of certain of the guilds1 at any rate at one period of their history1 and allusion is probably made to these mixed fraternities in the ,canons of ,archbishop ,walter1 ,a4,d4 #abjj1 in which he directs 8that clerks go not to taverns and drinking bouts1 for from thence come quarrels1 and then laymen beat clergymen1 and fall under the ,canon40 ,during the ,middle ,ages ale was the usual drink of all classes of ,englishmen1 and the wines of ,france were a luxury1 in general only consumed by the upper classes4 ,in ,france1 however1 wine was the common drink1 and ale a luxury4 ,william ,fitz-,stephen1 in his ,life of ,thomas ,becket1 states that when the latter went on an embassy to ,france1 he took with him two waggons laden with beer in iron-bound casks1 as a present to the ,french1 8who admire that kind of drink1 for it is wholesome1 clear1 of the colour of wine1 and of a better taste40 ,as an instance of the fame which ,english ale had attained abroad in the twelfth century1 may be cited the reply of ,pope ,innocent ,,iii4 to those who were arguing before him the case of the ,bishop of ,worcester's claims against the ,abbey of ,evesham4 8,holy father10 said they1 8we have learnt in the schools1 and this is the opinion of our masters1 that there is no prescription against the rights of bishops40 ,his ,holiness's reply was blunt and somewhat personal3 8,certainly1 both you and your masters had drunk too much ,english ale when you learnt this40 #cg ,a curious extract may here be added as indicative of the fame of ,english ale amongst foreigners in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries4 ,it is taken from a work entitled 8,a ,relation2 or rather a true account of the ,island of ,england1 ,a4,d4 #aejj1 translated from the ,italian by ,c4 ,a4 ,sneyd40 8,the deficiency of wine1 however10 says our author1 8is amply supplied by the abundance of ale and beer1 to the use of which these people have become so habituated1 that at an entertainment where there is plenty of wine1 they will drink them in preference to it1 and in great quantities4 ,like discreet people1 however1 they do not offer them to ,italians1 unless they should ask for them1 and they think that no greater honour can be conferred1 or received1 than to invite others to eat with them1 or be invited themselves2 and they would sooner give five or six ducats to provide an entertainment for a person1 than a groat to assist him in any distress4 ,they are not without vines2 and ,i have eaten grapes from one1 and wine might be made in ,southern parts1 but it would probably be harsh4 ,the natural deficiency of the country is supplied by a great quantity of excellent wines from ,candia1 ,germany1 ,france1 and ,spain2 besides which1 the common people make two beverages from ,wheat1 ,barley1 and ,oats1 one of which is called beer1 and the other ,ale2 and these liquors are much liked by them1 nor are they disliked by foreigners1 after they have drank them four or six times2 they are most agreeable to the palate1 when a person is by some chance rather heated40 ,the regulations of the religious houses nearly always make reference to ale2 and it may be inferred from the evidence we possess1 that the holy fathers1 who were always strong sticklers for the rights and privileges of their order1 would brook no interference either with the quantity or quality of their liquor4 ,in the ,institutes of the ,abbey of ,evesham1 drawn up by ,abbot ,randulf about the year #abbc1 the directions as to the diet of the inmates of the ,abbey1 are of great particularity4 ,the ,prior is to have one measure of ale at supper 7except when he shall sup with the ,abbot74 ,each of the fraternity shall every day receive two measures of ale1 each of which shall contain two pittances1 of which pittances six make up a 8sextarium regis40 ,in the same rules it is laid down that the monks are to have 8two semes of beans from ,huniburne1 to make puddings throughout all ,lent40 ,bean-pudding seems indeed a mortification of the flesh6 ,further on we find3 8,on every day every two brethren shall have one measure of ale from the cellar1 but after being let blood they shall have one for dinner and another for supper4 ,the servant who shall let the monks' blood shall have bread and ale #ch from the cellar1 if he have blooded more than one40 ,a further account of the monks as brewers will be found in the succeeding chapter4 ,the ,proverbs of ,hendyng 7thirteenth century7 give good advice as of the duties of charity and hospitality3-- ,gef thou havest bred and ale ,ne put thou nout al in thy male#ab1 ,thou del hit sum aboute4 ,be thou fre of thy meeles1 ,wherso me eny mete deles1 ,gest thou nout with-oute4#ac 8,betere is appel y-geve then y-ete10 ,quoth ,hendyng4 ,in the fourteenth century taxes seem to have been occasionally levied on ale for certain specific purposes4 ,in #acfc the inhabitants of ,abbeville were granted a tax on ale for the purpose of repairing their fortifications4 ,for each lotus of ale of gramville the tax was one penny ,parisien2 for each lotus of god-ale the tax was d4 7,rhymer #b4 #gab474 ,in a curious old poem of the early part of the fourteenth century entitled ,de ,baptismo1 by ,william of ,shoreham1 it appears to the poet1 necessary to lay down that ale must not be used for purposes of baptism1 but 8kende water0 7i4e41 natural water7 only4 ,the verse is as follows3-- ,therefore ine wine me ne may1 ,inne sithere ne inne pereye1 ,ne inne thing that neuere water nes ,thory cristning man may reneye1 ,ne inne ale2 ,for thei hight were water ferst1 ,of water neth hit tale4#ad #ab ,male bag or wallet4 #ac ,whether men give any meat away or no1 ,go thou not without 7giving74 #ad ,see p4 #dja4 ,this old ,english requires some little explanation1 and may be rendered thus3--,therefore man may not renounce 7his sins7 through christening in wine1 in cider1 nor in perry1 nor in anything that never was water1 nor yet in ale1 for though this 7i4e41 ale7 was water first1 it is acounted water no longer4 #ci ,whilst ,christmas1 as far as eating was concerned1 always had its specialities1 its liquor carte seems even in the thirteenth century to have been of a very varied character4 ,an old carolist of the period thus sings 7we follow ,douce's translation73-- ,lordlings1 ,christmas loves good drinking1 ,wines of ,gascoigne1 ,france1 ,anjou1 ,english ale that drives out thinking1 ,prince of liquors1 old or new1 ,every neighbour shares the bowl1 ,drinks of the spicy liquor deep2 ,drinks his fill without control1 ,till he drowns his care in sleep4 ,piers the ,ploughman1 a poem by ,william ,longland1 written towards the close of the fourteenth century1 contains a curious confession of the tricks played by the ale-sellers upon their customers3-- ,i boughte hire ,barly heo breuh hit to sulle2 ,peni-ale and piriwhit heo pourede to-gedere ,for laborers and louh folk that liuen be hem-seluen4 ,the ,beste in the ,bed-chaumbre lay bi the wowe1 ,hose ,bummede therof ,boughte hit ther-after1 ,a galoun for a grote1 ,god wot1 no lasse1 ,whon hit com in ,cuppemel2 such craftes me usede4 ,this1 being interpreted1 in modern ,english would read somewhat as follows3--,i bought her barley they brew it to sell2 ,peny ale 7i4e41 ale at a penny a gallon7 and small perry she poured together for labourers and poor folk that live by themselves4 ,the best lay in the bed chamber by the wall1 whoso drank thereof bought it 7i4e41 the penny ale7 by the sample 7i4e41 of the best7 a gallon for a groat1 ,god knows1 no less1 when it came in by cupfulls2 such craft ,i used4 ,piers the ,ploughman1 in describing the scarcity of labour after the great plague in the fourteenth century and the independence of the labouring men that arose from the high wages they were enabled to demand1 says that after harvest they would eat none but the finest bread1 ,ne non half-penny ,ale ,in none wyse drynke1 ,bote of the ,beste and the ,brouneste that ,brewesters sullen4 99 99 99 99 99 ,mai no peny-,ale hem paye ne no pece of ,bacun1 #dj ,bote hit weore ,fresch ,flesch or elles ,fisch y-,friyet1 ,both chaud and plus chaud for chele of heore mawe4#ae #ae ,as we should say1 8hot and hot10 for chill of their stomach4 ,chaucer has many references to ale4 ,the ,cook1 who was no mean proficient in his proper art1 was a judge of ale as well3-- ,a coke thei hadde with them for the nones1 ,to boyle the chickens1 and the marrie bones1 ,and pouder marchaunt tarte1 and galengale1 ,well coude he know a pot of ,london ale4 ,the ,miller prepares himself to tell his tale aright by swallowing mighty draughts of the same liquor4 ,he knows he is drunk1 and is not ashamed1 thinking it quite sufficient excuse to lay the blame upon that seductive fluid1 8the ale of ,southwerk03-- ,now herkeneth1 quod the miller1 all and some ,but first ,i make a protestatioun1 ,that ,i am dronke1 ,i know it by my soun2 ,and therefore if that ,i misspeke or say1 ,wite it the ale of ,southwerk1 ,i you pray4 ,the two ,cambridge students who lodge a night at the miller of ,trompington's are feasted by their host in this wise3-- ,the miller the toun his daughter sent ,for ale and bred1 and roasted hem a goos1 99 99 99 99 99 ,they soupen and they speken of solace1 ,and drinken ever strong ale at the best4 ,abouten midnight wente they to rest4 ,before they went1 however1 they had 8dronken all that was in crouke10 and the miller1 who appears to have had the lion's share1 had decidedly imbibed too much4 ,well hath this miller vernished his hed1 ,full pale he was1 for-dronken1 and nought red4 99 99 99 99 99 ,this miller hath so wisely bibbed ale1 ,that as an hors he snorteth in his slepe4 ,geoffrey ,chaucer1 along with other poets and writers of his times1 was unsparing in his denunciations of the vices of the clergy1 their sloth1 gluttony1 drunkenness and other grievous lapses4 ,thei side of many manir metes1 ,with song and solas sitting long2 #da ,and filleth their wombe1 and fast fretes1 ,and after mete with harp and song1 ,and hot spices ever among2 ,and fille their wombe with wine and ale4 ,piers the ,ploughman1 in his ,crede1 which is a satire upon the clergy1 makes the ,franciscan say1 in contrasting his own order with other religious bodies3-- ,we haunten not tavernes1 ne hobelen abouten ,at merketes and miracles we medeley us never4 ,the frequent directions to the monks and clergy to abstain from taverns1 from drinking bouts and revels1 all point to the necessity then felt of tightening the bonds of church discipline1 and show the laxity that had prevailed4 ,john ,taylor1 the ,water ,poet1 frequently selected ale as his theme1 and1 when once mounted on his favourite hobby1 soon travelled into such realms of marvellous history and miraculous philology1 that it almost takes away one's breath to follow him4 ,the chief work in which he glorifies our ,english ,ale has for its full title1 ,,drinke ,,and ,,welcome ,,or ,,the ,,famous ,,historie ,,of ,,the ,,most ,,part ,,of ,,drinks ,,in ,,use ,,now ,,in ,,the ,,kingdomes ,,of ,,great ,,brittaine ,,and ,,ireland1 ,,with ,,an ,,especiall ,,declaration ,,of ,,the ,,potency1 ,,vertue ,,and ,,operation ,,of ,,our ,,english ,,ale1 ,,with ,a ,,description ,,of ,,all ,,sorts ,,of ,,waters1 ,,from ,,the ,,ocean ,,sea1 ,,to ,,the ,,teares ,,of ,a ,,woman4 ,,as ,,also1 ,,the ,,causes ,,of ,,all ,,sortes ,,of ,,weather1 ,,faire ,,or ,,foule1 ,,sleet1 ,,raine1 ,,haile1 ,,frost1 ,,snowe1 ,,fogges1 ,,mists1 ,,vapours1 ,,clouds1 ,,stormes1 ,,windes1 ,,thunder ,,and ,,lightning ,,compiled ,,first ,,in ,,the ,,high ,,dutch ,,tongue ,,by ,,the ,,painefull ,,and ,,industrious 8,,huldricke ,,van ,,speagle1 ,a ,,grammaticall ,,brewer ,,of ,,lubeck1 ,,and ,,now ,,most ,,learnedly ,,enlarged1 ,,amplified1 ,,and ,,translated ,,into ,,english ,,prose ,,and ,,verse ,by ,,john ,,taylor4 ,,london ,,printed ,,by ,,anne ,,griffin #afcg4 #db ,after speaking of cider1 perry1 c41 the author goes on to speak of ale1 which 8hath been and now is used by the ,english1 as well since the ,conquest as in the times of the ,brittains1 ,saxons1 and ,danes 7for the former-recited drinks are to this day confined to the ,principality7 so as we enjoy them onely by a ,statute called the courtesie of ,wales4 ,and to perfect any discourse in this ,i shall onely induce them into two heads1 viz41 the unparalleled liquor called ,ale with his abstract ,beere2 whose antiquity amongst a sort of ,northerne pated fellowes1 is1 if not altogether contemptible1 of very little esteeme2 this humour served the scurrilous pen of a shamelesse writer#af in the raigne of ,king ,henry the third2 detractingly to inveigh against this unequal'd liquor4 ,thus #8,for muddy1 foggy1 fulsome1 puddle1 stinking1 ,for all of these1 ,ale is the onely drinking4' #af ,henry ,d',avranches4 8,of all the ,authors that ,i have ever yet read1 this is the only one that hath attempted to brand the glorious splendour of that ,ale-beloved decoction2 but observe this fellow1 by the perpetuall use of water 7which was his accustomed drinke7 he fell into such convulsions and lethargick diseases1 that he remained in opinion a dead man2 however1 the knowing ,physicians of that time1 by the frequent and inward application of ,ale1 not onely recouvered him to his pristine state of health1 but also enabled him in body and braine for the future1 that he became famous in his writings1 which for the most part were afterwards spent with most ,aleoquent and ,alaborate commendation of that admired and most superexcellent ,imbrewage40 8,some there are10 he says1 8that affirme that ,ale was first invened by ,alexander the ,great1 and that in his conquests this liquor did infuse such vigour and valour into his souldiers4 ,others say that famous ,physician of ,piemont 7named ,don ,alexis7 was the founder of it4 ,but it is knowne that it was of that singular use in the time of the ,saxons that none were allowed to brewe it but such whose places and qualities were most ,eminent1 insomuch that we finde that one of them had the credit to give the name of a ,saxon ,prince1 who in honour of that rare quality1 he called ,alle4 ,some aleadge that it being our drinke when our land was called ,albion1 that it had the name of the countrey2 ,twiscus in his ,euphorbinum will have it from ,albanta or ,epirus1 ,wolfgang ,plashendorph of ,gustenburg1 saies that ,alecto 7one of the three furies7 gave the receipt of it to ,albumazar1 a ,magician1 and he 7having ,aliance #dc with ,aladine1 the ,soldan at ,aleppo7 first brew'd it there1 whereto may be ,aleuded1 the story how ,alphonsus of ,scicily1 sent it from thence to the battell of ,alcazar4 ,my ,authour is of ,anaxagoras' opinion1 that ,ale is to be held in high price for the nutritive substance that it is indued withall1 and how precious a nurse it is in generall to ,mankinde4 8,it is true that the overmuch taking of it doth so much exhilerate the spirits1 that a man is not improperly said to be in the ,aletitude 7observe the word1 ,i pray you1 and all the words before or after for you shall find their first syllable to be ,ale71 and some writers are of opinion that the ,turkish ,alcoran was invented by ,mahomet1 out of such furious raptures as ,ale inspired him withall2 some affirme ,bacchus 7,al'as ,liber ,pater7 was the first ,brewer of it1 among the ,indians1 who being a stranger to them they nam'd it ,ale1 as brought by an ,alien3 in a word1 ,somnus altus signifies dead sleepe3 ,quies alta1 ,great rest2 ,altus and ,alta1 noble and excellent3 ,it is 7for the most part7 extracted out of the spirit of a ,graine called ,barley1 which was of that estimation amongest the ancient ,galles that their ,prophets 7whom they called ,bards7 used it in their most important prophesies and ceremonies3 ,this ,graine1 after it had beene watered and dryed1 was at first ground in a ,mill in the island of ,malta1 from whence it is supposed to gaine the name of ,malt2 but ,i take it more proper from the word ,malleolus1 which signifies a ,hammer or ,maule1 for ,hanniball 7that great ,carthaginian ,captaine7 in his sixteene yeeres warres against the ,romans1 was called the ,maule of ,italie1 for it is conjectured that he victoriously ,mauld them by reason that his army was daily refreshed with the ,spiritefull ,elixar of ,mault4 8,it holds very significant to compare a man in the ,aletitude to be in a planetarie height1 for in a ,planet1 the ,altitude is his motion in which he is carried from the lowest place of ,heaven or from the ,center of the ,earth1 into the most highest place1 or unto the top of his circle1 and then it is said to be in ,apogee1 that is the most ,transcendant part of all1 so the ,sublunarie of a ,stupified ,spirit1 being elevated by the efficacious vigour of this uncontrolleable vertue1 renders him most capable for high actions40 ,after much more in the same vein1 sufficient to astonish the most reckless of modern punsters1 our author winds up his account of the antiquity of ale as follows3-- 8,i will therefore shut up with that admirable conclusion insisted upon in our time by a discreet ,gentleman in a ,solemne ,assembly1 who by a ,politick observation1 very aptly compares ,ale and ,cakes with ,wine and #dd ,waters1 neither doth he hold it fit that it should stand in competition with the meanest wines1 but with that most excellent composition which the ,prince of ,physicians ,hippocrases had so ingeniously compounded for the preservation of ,mankinde1 and which 7to this day7 speakes the ,author by the name of ,hippocras4 ,so that you see for ,antiquity--,ale was famous amongst the ,troians1 ,brittaines1 ,romans1 ,saxons1 ,normans1 ,englishmen1 ,welch1 besides in ,scotland1 from the highest and ,noblest ,palace to the poorest and meanest ,cottage40 ,other curious details with respect to the use of ale in the ,middle ,ages and in modern times will be found in their appropriate places1 and having established clearly enough the highly respectable antiquity of the ,prince of liquors1 old or new1 it is time1 in the elegant language of the ,water ,poet1 to 8shut up0 this portion of the subject2 and so we pass on1 concluding here with an extract from the ,philosopher's ,banquet1 on the pre-eminence of ale3-- ,ale for antiquity may plead and stand ,before the conquest1 conquering in this land2 ,beere1 that is younger brother of her age1 ,was not then borne1 nor right to bee her page2 ,in every pedling village1 borough1 town1 ,ale plaid at football1 and tript all lads down2 ,and tho' shee's rivall'd now by beere1 her mate1 ,most doctors aiwt on herthis shewes her state4 ,illustration #de ,illustration ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,heap high the fire1 and1 ,o ye ,lares1 smile2 ,and1 ,innocence1 with plenty hither bring ,hilarity2 while ,friendship brims the cup ,with home-brewed ,ale1 and every welcom'd guest ,forgets the storm 4 4 4 ,booker's ,sequel ,poem to the ,hop ,garden4 ,i wish you a merry ,christmas and a happy new year1 ,with your pockets full of money1 and your cellar full of beer4 ,old ,carol4 ,,home-,,brewed ,,ales4 -- ,,old ,,receipts4 -- ,,historical ,,facts4 -- ,,dean ,,swift ,,on ,,home-,,brew4 -- ,,christopher ,,north',s ,,brew-,,house4 ,hogarth's ,farmer's ,return represents the worthy man just come in from his morning round or from distant market town4 ,as he rests awhile in the farmhouse kitchen he draws sweet solace from the pipe brought him by his daughter1 while he eyes with keen expectance the jug of foaming home-brew which his buxom wife1 in her hurry to serve her lord1 is spilling on the tiled floor4 ,these two old friends1 firm supporters of each other1 the farmers and home-brewed ale1 have almost parted company4 ,home-brew1 indeed1 has become1 in some places1 an extinct and almost forgotten beverage4 ,it is a curious fact1 however1 that between the years #ahhd and #ahhf there was a slight increase in the number of persons brewing their own ale4 #df ,illustration3 ,,the ,,farmers ,,return4 ,the late ,mr4 ,wm4 ,cobbett1 writing in #ahba on the subject of brewing1 says1 8,to show ,englishmen1 forty years ago1 that it was good for them to brew beer in their houses1 would have been as impertinent as gravely to insist that they ought to endeavour not to lose their breath2 for in those times1 to have a house and not to brew was a rare thing indeed4 ,mr4 ,ellman1 an old man and a large farmer in ,sussex1 has recently given1 in evidence before a ,committee of the ,house of ,commons1 this fact3 that forty years ago there was not a labourer in his parish that did not brew his own beer2 and that now there is not one that does it1 except by chance the malt be given him40 ,the decadence of the art of domestic brewing is1 for some reasons1 a matter for regret4 ,the causes are not far to seek4 ,the improved machinery of the modern brewer1 which enables him to make an uniformly excellent beer1 and to sell it at a low price2 and the railways which now traverse every part of the country1 carrying his single1 double1 or treble ,x1 as the case may be1 to places where half a century back no one dreamt of purchasing ale for home consumption--to these great changes is undoubtedly due the partial downfall of home-brew that has taken #dg place4 ,not only has the practice of domestic brewing much declined1 but from the same causes there has been of late years an extraordinary and lamentable decrease in the numbers of small country brewers4 ,although the name of home-brew carries with it many old associations and sentiments which we abandon with regret--memories of bright ,march beer and mellow old ,october1 of snug ingle-nooks and raftered ceilings1 and of kind1 if homely1 welcome--we cannot but admit1 as on a hot day we drain our tankard of ,burton bitter1 or of world-famed ,london stout1 that life has still its compensations4 8,to make barley-water was an invention which found out itself with little more than the joyning the ingredients together10 said old ,fuller1 in his ,worthies of ,england2 8but to make mault for drinke1 was a master-piece indeed40 ,this old writer would seem to give the maltster more credit than the brewer4 ,in his day1 however1 the distinction between the two was slight1 for nearly every country gentleman or farmer was both his own brewer and his own maltster4 ,in #afaj1 the justices of ,rutland1 in settling the rate of domestic servants' wages1 adjudged that a chief woman1 who could bake and brew and make malt1 should have the sum of #bds4 #h;d4 by the year2 while a second best1 who could brew but not malt1 was to have #bcs4 #d;d4 ,the earliest connected account of domestic malting and brewing which we have been able to find1 occurs in a poetical work of the thirteenth century1 called the ,treatise of ,walter de ,biblesworth4 ,the treatise deals with most matters of domestic concern and every-day life1 and the passage in which the malting of barley and the brewing of ale are described1 is so curious that it is given below in full length from the text to be found in ,national ,antiquities1 vol4 i4 7priv4 pub4 ,th4 ,wright1 ,ed474 8,seyoms ore entour cerveyse1 ,pur fere gens ben eyse4 ,alumet1 amy1 cele lefrenole1#ag #dh ,e kaunt averas manges de brakole1 ,en une cuwe#ah large e leez1 ,cel orge l enfoundrez2 ,e kaunt sera enfoundr1 ,e le ewe seyt escoulo1 ,mountez cel haut soler1 ,si le festes nette baler1#ai ,e l cochet votre ble1 ,taunke seyt ben germe1 ,de cele houre appelleras1 ,brs1 ke ble avant nomas4 ,le brs de vostre mayn muez ,en mounceus ou en renges2#bj ,pus le portez en un corbel1 ,pur ensechier au toral4#ba ,le corbel e le corbiloun ,vous serviront au fusoyn4 ,kaunt vostre brez est molu1 ,e de ewe chaude ben enbeu1 ,des bertiz#bb ver cervoyse ,par art controv teise4 ,ky fet miracles e merveyles1 ,de une chaundelie deus chandelis1 ,de homme lay fet bon clerc1 ,a homme desconu doune merk1 ,homme fort fet chatoner1 #di ,e homme roye haut juper1#bc ,taunt de vertu de la grees ,de servoyse fet de brs1 ,ke la coyfe#bd de un bricoun ,teyndre seet sanz vermilloun4 ,ceste matyre cy repose1 ,parlom ore de autre chose40 #ag ,some old ,englishman has written in the ,,ms4 over difficult words his interpretation of them2 an interpretation frequently of great assistance1 but occasionally in itself not a little puzzling4 ,this word lefrenole1 however1 he much elucidates by annotating it 8kex20 in ,gloucestershire and in other parts of the country the word is still used to signify the hemlock1 and may be found in many old writers4 ,lygones1 in ,a ,king and ,no ,king1 refers to his legs as 8withered kexes40 ,the word was probably occasionally used to denote a candle1 and this is the meaning assigned to it here4 ,langland1 in the ,vision of ,piers ,ploughman1 says that glowing embers do not serve the workman's purpose so well1 8,as dooth a kex or a candle ,that caught hath fire and blazeth40 ,allusion is also made to the use of stalks of hemlock as candles in ,turn4 of ,tottenham1 #bja4 #ah ,our annotator says 8a mikel fat40 ,the word 8kive0 is found in later ,english for the same utensil4 #ai ,suepet klene4 #bj 8,on hepe other on rowe0 is the quaint gloss4 #ba ,toral is noted 8kulne40 #bb ,bertiz is probably a form of bertzissa1 which seems to be a barbarous rendering of wort4 #bc ,juper is annotated houten1 i4e41 to hoot or shout4 #bd ,the word coyfe here seems to signify not cap1 but head or face2 another such use of the word is to be found in the ,chron4 de ,nangis 7#acgg71 and is mentioned in ,sainte-,palaye's ,hist4 ,dict4 of the ,french ,language4 ,it is believed that no translation of this curious old poem has been published1 and a rendering is accordingly added in which literal accuracy rather than poetical elegance has been aimed at4 ,ale shall now engage my pen1 ,to set at rest the hearts of men4 ,first1 my friend1 your candle light1#be ,next of spiced cake take a bite2 ,then steep your barley in a vat1 ,large and broad1 take care of that2 ,when you shall have steeped your grain1 ,and the water let out-drain1 ,take it to an upper floor1 ,if you've swept it clean before1 ,there couch1#bf and let your barley dwell1 ,till it germinates full well4 ,malt now you shall call the grain1 ,corn it ne'er shall be again4 ,stir the malt then with your hand1 ,in heaps or rows now let it stand2 ,on a tray then you shall take it1 ,to a kiln to dry and bake it4 ,the tray and eke a basket light ,will serve to spread the malt aright4 #ej ,when your malt is ground in mill1 ,and of hot water has drank its fill1 ,and skill has changed the wort to ale1 ,then to see you shall not fail ,miracles and marvels2 ,lo6 ,two candles out of one do grow2 ,ale makes a layman a good clerk1 ,to one unknown it gives a mark1 ,ale makes the strong go on all fours1 ,and fill the streets with shouts and roars4 ,the good ale from the malt at length1 ,so draws the barley's pride and strength1 ,that a royster's figure-head ,needs no dye to make it red4 ,here1 then1 let the matter rest1 ,to talk of other things were best4 #be i4e41 you must rise betimes4 #bf ,the word 8couch0 has still a technical meaning in malting4 ,as everybody knows1 the monks of old were famous for their home-brewed ales1 and the brewer and cellarer1 whether in mitred abbey or in the less distinguished religious houses1 were officials of considerable importance4 ,the office of cellarer was one held in especial estimation4 ,an old glossary describes his position in the monastery as follows3--8,pater debet esse totius congregationis10 and in the priory of ,st4 ,swithin at ,winchester special prayers were offered up for this functionary4 ,such a person is depicted on this page4 ,the monk whose anxious eye proclaims the sad fact that in tasting the liquor entrusted to his charge he is exceeding his duty1 is a cellarer who evidently makes the most of his opportunities4 ,the drawing is taken from a manuscript in the ,arundel collection4 ,illustration3 8,is it in condition80 #ea ,illustration3 ,medival ,cellarer4 ,some curious entries relating to home-brew are to be found in the registry of the priory of ,worcester1 ,a4,d4 #abdj4 ,at each brewing 8,,viii4 cronn3 de greu and x quarteria de meis0 were used2 which probably signifies eight cronns or four quarters of growte 7here meaning ground malt71 and ten quarters of mixed barley and oat malt4 ,a long list then follows of the allowances of beer amongst the different officials of the house4 ,the beer was of three different kinds1 prima or melior1 secunda1 and tertia4 ,the cellarer is to have one measure of prime and one of second4 ,in the brewhouse four measures of the prime are to be distributed1 and two measures on the day on which the ale is to be moved4 ,the servant of the church is to have the holy-water bucket full of 8mixta10 i4e41 part prime and part second1 or1 it may be1 a mixture of all three sorts4 ,this 8mixta0 seems to have been an anticipation of the 8half-and-half0 and 8three threads0 of more modern times4 ,each of those who help to carry the ale are to have two measures of the first and second mixed1 and so the list proceeds through all the officers and servants of the priory4 ,ale1 indeed1 seems to have been their chief drink1 and even the invalid 7potionandus7 about to undergo a course of physicking was allowed his measure of ale4 ,our doubts as to the wisdom of this dieting hardly require the confirmation they receive from the further direction that he was to have pork1 fowl with stuffing1 cheese1 and eggs4 ,sometimes the records tell sad tales of the poor monks being robbed of their beer by reason of the malt failing4 ,this misfortune is recorded in the annals of ,dunstable as having happened in #abfb4 ,the annalist ruefully mentions that 8in this year1 about the ,feast of ,john the ,baptist1 our ale failed40 ,very soon after this1 however1 they made provision for the deficiency by purchasing from ,h4 ,chadde #bj worth of malt2 the quantity is not mentioned1 but at the rates of the day it would no doubt considerably exceed #ajj quarters1 so that for some time the monks could have known no want4 ,in #abgd the same disaster occurred3--8,at the ,feast of ,pentecost our malt failed40 ,this time the holy fathers were equal to the occasion4 8,we drank10 so run the annals1 8five casks of wine1 and it did us much good40 #eb ,the crimes and misdeeds of ,roger ,noreys1 the wicked abbot of ,evesham at the end of the twelfth century1 seem to have culminated when he not only called the monks 8puppies1 vassals1 and ribalds10 but1 adding injury to insult1 compelled them to live for many days on hard bread and 8ale little differing from water40 ,this was too much1 and the monks petitioned the archbishop against such ill-treatment4 ,the abbot1 it may be remarked1 appears from the records of the ,house to have taken very good care of himself1 though he treated the monks so ill1 and it might have been said of him as it was of another ecclesiastic whose name1 unfortunately1 has not accompanied the verse3-- ,bonum vinum cum sapore ,bibit abbas cum priore ,sed conventus de pejore ,semper solet bibere4 ,john of ,brokehampton1 who became abbot of ,evesham in #abhb1 had himself filled the office of cellarer1 and amongst many other benefits conferred by him upon the ,house during his abbacy1 he built a bakehouse and a brewhouse 8not only strongly but sumptuously40 ,on certain special days set apart for 8doing the great ,o10#bg which was a facetious way of saying that they were holidays when nothing was done1 a more liberal allowance of ale was made1 and on the occasion of the election of a ,canon for ,st4 ,paul's1 foreign wine and other delicacies were added to the feast4 #bg 8,facere ,o0 in some places had reference to the introit beginning 8,o ,sapientia40 ,some slight idea of a monastic feast in the thirteenth century may be gathered from the accompanying illustration4 ,the presence of women is significant1 and the quaint spit1 and the round-bottomed glass which one of the monks holds in his hand and which cannot be set down until empty1 are noteworthy4 ,what a gentleman's cellar ought to contain is thus described by ,alexander ,neckam1 a twelfth-century writer3--8,in promptuario sive in celario10 he writes1 8sunt cadi1 utres1#bh dolea1 ciphi1#bi cophini1 4 4 4 vina1 scicera1 cerevicia1 sive celia1 mustum1 claretum1 nectar1#cj medo #ec sive ydromellum1#ca piretum1 vinum rosetum1 vinum feretum1 vinum falernum1 vinum girofilatum40 ,some old scribe has noted this work in the same way as the annotator of the ,treatise of ,walter de ,biblesworth1 and taking up the hints he has given1 the passage may be translated3--8,in the cellar are barrels1 leather bottles or wine skins1 tuns1 beakers1 baskets1 4 4 4 wines1 cyder1 ale1 new wine1 claret1 piment1 meed or ydromellum1 perry1 ,mount ,rose wine1 ,falernian1 garihofilac1 c4 4 4 40 ,not a bad assortment of liquors for an ,early ,englishman6 ,our cut1 taken from the ,roxburghe ballads1 represents a well-stocked cellar of the olden times4 #bh ,utres is noted #8coutreus4' #bi ,ciphi anaps1 cophini anapers4 ,on this word anaps1 or hanaps1 see page #cie4 #cj ,nectar or ,piment was a luscious kind of drink compounded of wine1 honey and spices2 it was called after the pigmentarii1 or apothecaries who prepared it1 and was in fact a liqueur4 #ca ,ydromellum is explained in the ,ortus as potus ex aqua et melle1 ,anglice mede or growte 7,growte wort in an early stage of the brewing74 ,in ,alfric's ,colloquy1 however1 it is said to be beor1 or mulsum4 ,the true explanation of this discrepancy seems to be that ydromellum1 while properly signifying an inferior sort of mead1 was also used by analogy to denote the sweet liquor wort4 ,illustration ,illustration #ed ,the requisites of a brewhouse of the fourteenth or fifteenth century are described in a ,latin-,english ,vocabulary of the period3-- ,brasiatrix1 a brewster 7a female brewer74 ,cima1 a kymnelle 7a mash tub74 ,fornax1 a furnasse4 ,alveum1 a trogh4 ,brasium1 malte4 ,barzissa1 wortte4 ,dragium1 draf 7grains74 ,calderium1 a caldron4 ,taratantarum1 a temse 7sieve74 ,cuvella1 a kunlion 7small tub74 ,ydromellum1 growte4 ,mola1 a quern 7handmill74 ,pruera1 ling 7a broom made of ling74 ,that graphic old writer1 ,harrison1 in his ,preface to ,hollinshed's ,chronicles1 #aehg1 gives a capital description of home-brewing as it was carried on at the end of the sixteenth century2 and 8once in a moneth practised by my wife10 as he informs us4 ,it may be remarked incidentally1 that brewing seems to have usually fallen to the share of the housewife1 whose duties in this respect are indicated in the old ,durham rhyme3-- ,i'll no more be a nun1 nun1 nun1 ,i'll be no more a nun6 ,but ,i'll be a wife1 ,and lead a merry life1 ,and brew good ale by the tun1 tun1 tun4 ,to return to old ,harrison and his home-brew4 8,nevertheless10 he says1 8sith ,i have taken occasion to speake of bruing1 ,i will exemplifie in such a proportion as ,i am best skilled in1 bicause it is the usuall rate for mine owne familie1 and once in a moneth practised by my wife and hir maid servants1 who proceed withall after this maner1 as she hath oft informed me4 ,having therefore groond eight bushels of good malt upon our querne1 where the toll is saved1 she addeth unto it half a bushel of wheat meale1 and so much of otes small groond1 and so tempereth or mixeth them with the malt1 that you cannot easily discerne the one from the other1 otherwise these later would clunter1 fall into lumps1 and thereby become unprofitable4 ,the first liquor which is full #ee eightie gallons according to the proportion of our furnace1 she maketh boiling hot1 and then powreth it softlie into the malt1 where it resteth 7but without stirring7 untill hir second liquor be almost ready to boile4 ,this doone she letteth hir mash run till the malt be left without liquor1 or at the leastwise the greater part of the moisture1 which she perceiveth by the staie and softe issue thereof1 and by this time hir second liquor in the furnace is ready to seeth1 which is put also to the malt as the first woort also againe into the furnace1 whereunto she addeth two pounds of the best ,english hops1 and so letteth them seeth together by the space of two hours in summer1 or an houre and a halfe in winter1 whereby it getteth an excellent colour and continuance without impeachment1 or anie superfluous tartnesse4 ,but before she putteth her first woort into the furnace1 or mingleth it with the hops1 she taketh out a vessel full1 of eight or nine gallons1 which she shutteth up close1 and suffereth no aire to come into it till it become yellow1 and this she reserveth by it selfe unto further use1 as shall appeare hereafter1 calling it ,brackwoort or ,charwoort1 and as she saith it addeth also to the colour of the drinke1 whereby it yeeldeth not unto amber or fine gold in hew unto the eie4 ,by this time also hir second woort is let runne1 and the first being taken out of the furnace and placed to coole1 she returneth the middle woort into the furnace1 where it is striken over1 or from whence it is taken againe4 8,when she hath mashed also the last liquor 7and let the second to coole by the first7 she letteth it runne and then seetheth it againe with a pound and an half of new hops or peradventure two pounds as she seeth cause by the goodness or basenesse of the hops2 and when it hath sodden in summer two hours1 and in winter an houre and an halfe1 she striketh it also and reserveth it unto mixture with the rest when time dooth serve therefore4 ,finallie when she setteth hir drinke together1 she addeth to hir brackwoort or charwoort halfe an ounce of arras and halfe a quarterne of an ounce of baiberries finelie powdered1 and then putteth the same into hir woort with an handful of wheate floure1 she proceedeth in such usuall order as common bruing requireth4 ,some in steed of arras and baies add so much long peper onely1 but in hir opinion and my lyking it is not so good as the first1 and hereof we make three hoggesheads of good beere1 such 7,i meane7 as is meet for poore men as ,i am to live withall whose small maintenance 7for what great thing is fortie pounds a yeare computatis computandis able to performe7 may indure no deeper cut1 the charges whereof groweth in this manner4 ,i value my malt at ten shillings1 my wood at foure shillings which ,i buie1 #ef my hops at twenty pence1 the spice at two pence1 servants wages two shillings sixpence1 both meat and drinke1 and the wearing of my vessell at twentie pence1 so that for my twenty shillings ,i have ten score gallons of beer or more1 nothwithstanding the loss in seething4 4 4 4 ,the continuance of the drinke is alwaye determined after the quantitie of the hops1 so that being well hopped it lasteth longer4 ,for it feedeth upon the hop and holdeth out so long as the force of the same endureth which being extinguished the drinke must be spent or else it dieth and becometh of no value40 ,a brewhouse was in the sixteenth century an essential for a gentleman's house4 ,boorde1 in his directions for building a country house1 mentions this3--8,and also0 he says1 8the backe-house and brew-house shall be a dystance from the place and from other buyldyng40 ,strutt gives an inventory of the contents of a private brewhouse of the sixteenth century4 8,im primis a meshe fatt--,item1 a great ledde 7leaden vessel7--,item1 a brasse panne set in the walle 7the copper for boiling the wort7--,item1 #f wort leeds1 callyd coolars--,item1 a greate c'linge fatt with #b other fattes1 and other tubs and kimnelles40 ,the poetic soul of ,thomas ,tusser1 which has condescended to celebrate in quaint and homely verse most subjects of domestic interest or savouring of country life1 has left us a short effusion on home-brew1 which1 though not perhaps so complete as a novice in the art of brewing might desire for his instruction1 yet contains some pithy and1 doubtless1 useful rules4 ,the verses are to be found in the ,pointes of ,good ,huswiferie1 and run thus3-- ,brew somewhat for thine1 ,else bring up no swine4 ,where brewing is needful1 be brewer thyself1 what filleth the roofe will helpe furnish the shelfe2#cb ,in buying of drinke by the firkin or pot the tallie ariseth1 but hog amendes not4#cc ,well brewed1 worth cost1 ,ill used1 halfe lost4 ,one bushell well brewed1 outlasteth some twaine1 and saveth both mault1 and expenses in vaine1 ,too new is no profite1 too stale is as bad1 drinke deade1 or else sower1 makes laborer sad4 #eg ,remember1 good ,gill1 ,take paine with thy swill4 ,seeth grains in more water1 while graines be yet hot1 and stirre them in copper as poredge in pot1 ,such heating with straw1 to make offall good store1#cd both pleseth and easeth1 what would you have more8 #cb i4e41 we presume1 brewing which fills the roof with steam is good economy4 #cc ,the score at the ale-house mounts up1 but your pig is none the better for it4 ,the allusion is to feeding pigs on the spent grains4 #cd ,the grains are to be used again to make 8offall10 or small beer4 ,pain was not always taken by ,gill with her swill1 as may be seen by the sad account of the ,distracted ,maid1 an ,ancient ,garland1 in which the evil results of a pre-occupied mind are shown4 ,one verse of this effusion will doubtless be deemed sufficient3-- ,to tell you as ,i am true1 ,when ever ,i bake or brew1 ,the thoughts of ,will come uppermost still1 ,i hardly know what to do2 ,instead of malt ,i put in salt1 ,and boils my copper dry2 ,the perjured ,act1 and wicket ,fact1 ,my brains are rack'd and ,i am crack'd1 ,there's no body knows but ,i1 ,there's no body knows but ,i4 ,it is interesting to compare the cost of brewing in the sixteenth century with that at the present day4 ,harrison's brewing1 as he has shown us1 cost him a fraction over a penny the gallon4 ,the following account of a brewing in the household of the ,duke of ,northumberland1 in the eighth year of the reign of ,henry ,,viii41 brings out somewhat the same result1 though the 8painful scribe0 seems to have got a little confused in his arithmetic towards the end of his account2 however1 a good deal must be excused to those who have to work sums in ,roman numerals4 8,a ,brewyng at ,wresill and carryede to ,topclif4 ,fyrste paide for vj quarters malt at ,wresill after vs4 the quarter--xxxs4 ,item1 paide for vj lb ,hopps for the saide ,brewyng after j d4 ob4 the lb--jxd4 ,item1 #eh paide for v score ,faggotts for the saide ,brewyng after v faggots j d--xxd4 ,item1 paide for the ,cariage of the saide ,brewyng from ,wresill to ,borrowbrigg by watir--viz xij ,hoggeshedes whiche makith iij ,tonns after iiijs4 vd4 the ,tonne and a penny more at all--xiijs4 iiijd4 ,item paide for the ,hire of iij ,wanys for carrying of the said iij ,tonne from ,barrow-brigg to ,topclyf after viijd for the ,hire of every ,wayne--ijs4 8,summa xlvijs4 ixd4 8,whereof is made xij ,hoggeshedes of ,beyr4 ,every ,hoggeshede contenyng xlviij gallons whiche is in all cccciiij xvj gallons after a ,penny the ,gallon and iijd4 les at all which is derer by qu in every gallon save iijs iiijd4 les at all--xlvijs ixd40 ,not so many years later the prices of ale and beer seem to have risen unaccountably1 for in the charges for the diet of ,mary ,queen of ,scots at ,tutbury1 ,chartley1 and ,fotheringaye the item is to be found 8for ale bought at dyerse pryces #aadh gallons at #i;d4 the gallon1 #dc #acs4 #i;d40 8,three hundred and fifty-three tons #b hogs of beare0 were also bought at an average price of #cis4 #aa;d4 the ton1 #gjf #acs4 #e;d4 ,burton ale may even at that time have commanded a higher price than ordinary ale1 and the cost of transit would1 no doubt1 be heavy4 ,in addition to the ale bought at 8dyerse pryces10 some must have been brewed at home2 for in further accounts are the following items3--8,hopps #as41 a brewinge fatte with the charges for settyng it up #d #es4 #h;d4 ,a new pompe for the brewhouse #bhs4 #h;d40 ,although brewing1 as we have seen1 was carried on during every month in the year for the commoner household uses1 ,march and ,october were the favourite months for making strong ale1 8the authenticall drinke of ,england1 the whole barmy tribe of ale-cunners never layd their lips to the like40 ,the summer months were especially eschewed by those who wished to keep their liquor1 and hence the old saying3-- 8,bow-wow1 dandy-fly1 ,brew no beer in ,july40 8,oh6 but my grandmother10 says ,gluttony1 in the ,tragical ,history of ,doctor ,faustus1 8she was a jolly gentlewoman1 and well beloved in every good town and city2 her name was ,mistress ,margery ,march ,beer40 8,ale and beere10 says ,harrison1 8beare the greatest brunt in #ei drincking1 which are of so many sortes and ages as it pleases the brewar to make them4 ,the beer that is used at noblemen's tables1 is commonly of a yeare olde1 7or peradventure of twoo yeres tunning or more1 but this is not general7 it is also brued in ,marche1 and is therefore called ,marche bere1 but for the household it is usually not under a monethes age1 eache one coveting to have the same as stale as he might1 so that it was not soure40 ,and a serious 8brunt0 it was if the following obituary notice1 which appeared in the ,gentleman's ,magazine in #ahaj1 may be taken as a sample of our fathers' devotion to home-brew3-- 8,at the ,ewes farm-house1 ,yorkshire1 aged #gf1 ,mr4 ,paul ,parnell1 farmer1 grazier1 and maltster1 who1 during his lifetime1 drank out of one silver pint cup upwards of #b1jjj sterling worth of ,yorkshire ,stingo1 being remarkably attached to ,stingo tipple of the home-brewed best quality4 ,the calculation is taken at #b;d4 per cupful4 ,he was the bon-vivant whom ,o',keefe celebrated in more than one of his ,bacchanalian songs under the appellation of ,toby ,philpott40 ,the ,journal of ,timothy ,burrell1 ,esquire1 of ,ockenden ,house1 ,cuckfield1 ,sussex1 proves him to have been a true devotee of the rites of ,ceres4 ,with what particularity he mentions his purchases of malt and hops--8,may #c1 #afhc4 ,quarter of malt1 #a4 4 4 4 #bc ,july4 ,for #bhlbs4 of hops ,i gave #gs4 4 4 4 ,october4 ,i paid ,jo4 ,warden for #cj bushels of malt1 just #d months1 #d #cs40 ,then with what care he notes the day on which he brewed1 as thus--8#c ,may1 #agjb1 ,pandoxavi0 and with what satisfaction the day on which he tapped the barrel1--8#ab ,june ,relinivi0--illustrating his manuscript as he goes along with quaint sketches of barrels1 quart pots1 pockets of hops and such-like4 ,john ,coachman1 who seems to have been worthy ,timothy's servant for many years1 frequently comes in for a remark by reason of his excessive devotion to the barley bree3--8,oct4 #hth1 #afih4 ,payd ,john ,coachman1 in full of his half year's wages1 to be spent in ale1 #b #fs4 #f;d4 ,i paid him for his breeches 7to be drunk17 in part of his wages1 #fs40 8,paid to ,john ,coachman1 in part of his wages1 to be fooled away in syder or lottery1 #es40 8,march #bfth1 #agaj1 ,i paid the saddler for ,john ,coachman falling drunk off his box1 when he was driving to ,glynde1 in part of his wages1 #a #gs4 #f;d40 ,rest well1 honest ,timothy1 thy quaint pen is still1 thy brewing days are over6 ,in ,dean ,swift's ,polite ,conversations we have the following amusing dialogue on the subject of home-brew3-- ,lady ,smart4 ,pray1 my lord1 did you order the butler to bring #fj up a tankard of our ,october to ,sir ,john8 ,i believe they stay to brew it4 ,the butler brings up the tankard to ,sir ,john4 ,sir ,john ,linger4 ,won't your ladyship please to drink first8 ,lady ,s4 ,no1 ,sir ,john2 'tis in a very good hand2 ,i'll pledge you4 ,col4 ,atwit 7to ,lord ,smart74 ,my lord1 ,i love ,october as well as ,sir ,john2 and ,i hope you won't make fish of one and flesh of another4 ,smart4 ,colonel1 you're heartily welcome4 ,come1 ,sir ,john1 take it by word of mouth1 and then give it to the ,colonel4 ,sir ,john drinks4 ,smart4 ,well1 ,sir ,john1 how do you like it8 ,sir ,j4 ,not as well as my own in ,derbyshire2 'tis plaguy small4 ,lady ,s4 ,i never taste malt liquor3 but they say it is well hopp'd4 ,sir ,j4 ,hopp'd8 why if it had hopp'd a little further it would have hopp'd into the river4 ,o1 my lord1 my ale is meat1 drink1 and cloth2 it will make a cat speak and a wise man dumb4 ,lady ,s4 ,i was told ours was very strong4 ,sir ,j4 ,ay1 madam1 strong of the water2 ,i believe the brewer forgot the malt1 or the river was too near him4 ,faith1 it is mere whip-belly vengeance2 he that drinks most has the worst share4 ,col4 ,i believe1 ,sir ,john1 ale is as plenty as water at your house4 ,sir ,j4 ,why1 faith1 at ,christmas we have many comers and goers2 and they must not be sent away without a cup of ,christmas ale for fear they should---- ,lady ,s4 ,i hear ,sir ,john has the nicest garden in ,england2 they say 'tis kept so clean that you can't find a place where to spit4 ,sir ,j4 ,o1 madam2 you are pleased to say so4 ,lady ,s4 ,but1 ,sir ,john1 your ale is terribly strong and heady in ,derbyshire1 and will soon make one drunk or sick2 what do you then8 ,sir ,j4 ,why1 indeed1 it is apt to fox one2 but our way is to take a hair of the same dog next morning4 ,i take a new-laid egg for breakfast2 and faith one should drink as much after an egg as after an ox4 ,thompson1 in his ,autumn1 makes reference to the strong ,october brew4 ,nor wanting is the brown ,october1 drawn ,mature and perfect from his dark retreat ,of thirty years2 and now his honest front ,flames in the light refulgent1 not afraid ,even with the vineyard's best produce to vie4 #fa ,seldom1 it may be imagined1 even in the sphere of domestic brewing1 has so small a 8browst0 been brewed as that described by ,hone in his ,table ,book as having been made by ,widow ,wood1 of ,beckenham ,alms ,house4 ,she brewed with her ordinary cooking utensils1 and the fireplace of her little room2 a tin kettle served her for boiler1 she mashed in a common butter-firkin1 ran off the liquor in a 8crock10 and tunned it in a small beer barrel4 ,she thought that poor folk might do a great deal for themselves if they only knew how2 8but10 said she1 8where there's a will there's a way40 ,among modern writers ,christopher ,north has left perhaps the best description of what a modern private brewhouse should be4 8,we dare say10 he says1 8that many personages who never in the whole course of their polished existences dreamed or thought of dreaming of brewing anything 7except mischief71 will shrug their shoulders at the idea of being introduced like his ,majesty ,george the ,third1 at ,whitbread's1 into an odorous brewhouse1 redolent of wash1 wort1 grains1 hops1 yeast1 and carbonic acid gas2 peeping into pumps--tumbling into vats4 ,silence1 good exquisite6 and let us inform you--7but first take that cigar out of your mouth1 or you will infallibly burn the carpet7--let us inform you that a gentleman's brewhouse1 like his greenhouse1 his hothouse1 his dairy1 or even his cellar1 is no such unpleasant place4 ,no place1 indeed1 can be so that has anything of the rural about it4 ,there is our own brewhouse at ,buchanan ,lodge2 it might pass for a summer-house4 ,we shall describe it to you4 ,it stands1 good reader 7mark us well71 at the back of the house1 just at the edge of the little ravine or dell1 and half hid by the laburnums4 ,it is also separated from the other offices by a lowish beech hedge4 ,around1 below1 and opposite are growing the wild cherry1 the tall chestnut1 the sycamore1 the fir1 the thorn1 and the bramble1 which clothe the sides of the deep glen4 ,from its chimneys1 as soon as the soft ,march gales begin to blow1 curls the white smoke before the hour of dawn4 ,the fire within burns brightly4 ,everything is clean and #8sweet as the newly-tedded hay4' ,precisely as six o'clock strikes we march forth--ay1 even we1 ,christopher ,north--with our old fishing jacket and our apron on2 our old velvet study-cap close about our ears1 and our thermometer in our hand4 ,the primroses are basking in the morning rays2 the dewdrops are sparkling the last upon the leaves2 the unseen violets are breathing forth sweets2 the blackbird trills his mellow notes in the thicket2 the wren twitters in the hedge2 and the redbreast hops round the door4 ,we enter4 ,all is right4 ,we try our heat4 #8,donald1 a leetle more cold4 ,that will do4 #fb ,in with the malt4 ,every grain1 you hound4' #8,ech6 ,donald's no the man to pench the maut4' #8,now stir1 for life2' and the active stirrer turns over and over the fragrant grain in the smoking liquid4 ,all is covered up close1 and the important mash 7twelve bushels to the hogshead7 is completed4 8,but of what sort of malt8 #8,another question for the swordsmen1' for of #8malts' there are as many flavours1 almost1 as of vintages4 ,they who think that if malt be but sweet1 mealy1 and well crushed--that is all--know1 begging their pardons1 little of the matter4 ,we have heard brewers1 who thought themselves no fools1 assert that the hops alone give the ale its flavour2 and that the difference between pale and high dried malt is only in colour4 ,they might as well have argued that the lemon gives all the flavour to punch6 ,we1 ,christopher ,north1 aver1 that upon the degree of dryness which has been given to the malt1 the distinguishing flavour of malt liquor mainly depends4 ,the bitter principle of the hop is only the ground or substratum upon which the skilful brewer builds his peculiar flavour of beer4 ,as more or less of hops is put in1 no doubt the saccharine principle of the malt is subdued1 or is suffered to predominate4 ,but in malt there is1 besides the mere sugar which it contains in common with so many other vegetables1 a flavour peculiar to itself3 and this is brought out and modified by the application of more or less of the great chemical agent1 heat1 to the malted barley4 ,in short1 fire makes malt more or less savoury1 much as it makes a brandered fowl1 or a mutton steak1 or a toasted oaten cake1 more or less savoury40 ,countless receipts have been preserved for making1 flavouring1 and keeping home-brew from the days of the ,saxon ,leechbooks down to the present time4 ,some of the older ones were supposed to depend for their efficacy on supernatural intervention4 8,if the ale be spoilt10 says an old ,saxon ,leechdom1 8take lupins1 lay them on the four quarters of the dwelling1 and over the door1 and under the threshold1 and under the ale-vat1 put the wort 7the herb7 into the ale with holy water40 ,in a ,scotch brewer's instructions for ,scotch ale1 dated #agic1 may be found a mystical note3 8,i throw a little dry malt1 which is left on purpose1 on the top of the mash1 with a handful of salt1 to keep the witches from it1 and then cover it up40 ,perhaps the idea that witches could spoil the ale by their evil charms gave rise to the phrase 8water bewitched10 signifying very weak beer or other liquor4 ,the plant1 ale-cost 7ground ivy71 was1 during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries1 used for 8dispatching the maturation0 of ale and beer4 #fc ,gerard1 in his ,herball 7#aegi71 mentions the same plant under the name of ale-houve4 8,the women of our northern parts10 he says1 8do tun the herb ale-houve into their ale1 but the reason thereof ,i know not40 ,our ancestors either must have had some means of very rapidly 8maturing0 their ale1 or they must have been content to drink it unmatured2 for it is recorded in the ,munimenta ,academica ,oxon4 that a brewer of ,oxford was1 in #addd1 compelled to solemnly swear before the ,chancellor that he would let his ale stand twelve hours to clear1 before he carried it to hall or college for sale2 and in ,london it was the custom to drink ale even newer1 so much so1 that on complaint being made1 in the fourteenth year of ,queen ,elizabeth1 that the brewers deliver ale and beer but two or three hours after it has been cleansed and tunned1 an ordinance was made that the brewers should not deliver their liquors until eight hours after it had been tunned in the summer months1 and six hours in the winter4 ,ivory shavings have been recommended for rapidly maturing beer1 and it is related that a woman1 who lived at ,leighton ,buzzard1 in ,bedfordshire1 and had the best ale in the town1 once told a gentleman she had drink just done working in the barrel1 and that she would wager it was fine enough to drink out of a glass even before it was bunged4 ,it was as she said1 and the ivory shavings1 that she boiled in the wort1 were the cause of it4 ,among the many receipts given in old works for 8recovering0 ale or beer when it has turned sour1 is one directing the housewife to put a handful or two of ground malt into the beer1 stir it well together1 which will make the beer work and become good again4 ,in another receipt the brewer is directed to put a handful of oatmeal into a barrel of beer when first laid into the cellar1 which will cause it to carry with it a quick and lively taste4 ,the root of flower-de-luce or iris suspended in ale is said to be a specific against sourness4 ,another plan is to calcine oyster shells1 beat them to powder with a like quantity of chalk1 put them in a thin bag into the liquor1 hanging it almost to the bottom1 and in twenty-four hours the work will be effected4 ,it may be suggested that in these cases prevention is better than cure--drink your beer while it is good1 and do not give it an opportunity of getting sour4 ,an old receipt for preserving small beer without the help of hops1 is to mix a small quantity of treacle with a handful of wheat and bean flour and a little ginger1 to knead the mixture to a due consistence1 and put it into the barrel4 8,it has been a common observation10 said an old writer1 8that both beer and ale are #fd apt to be foul1 disturbed1 and flat in bean season2 the same is observed of wines in the vintage countries4 ,thunder is also a spoiler of good malt liquor1 to prevent the effects of which1 laying a solid piece of iron on each cask has hitherto been esteemed an effectual prevention of the above injuries40 ,in some places1 too1 an iron pad fitting closely over the bunghole is used1 and in others an iron tray answers the same purpose4 ,an old receipt book contains the following remarkable directions for making forty sorts of ale out of one barrel of liquor4 8,have ale of good body1 and when it has worked well bottle it off1 but fill not the bottles within three spoonfuls2 then being ripe1 as you use it1 fill it up with the syrup of any fruit1 root1 flower1 or herb you have by you for that purpose1 or drop in chimical oyls or waters of them1 or of spices1 and with a little shaking the whole mass will be tinctured and taste pleasantly of what you put in2 and so you may make all sorts of physical ales with little trouble1 and no incumbrance1 more healthful and proper than if herbs were soaked in it or drugs1 which in the pleasant entertainment will make your friends wonder how you came by such variety on a sudden40 ,thus much then1 of home-brew2 the subject is almost inexhaustible and pleasant withal1 but the laws of space are inexorable1 and forbid further tarrying4 ,as ,walter de ,biblesworth quaintly remarks3-- ,ceste matyre cy repose1 ,parlom ore de autre chose4 ,illustration #fe ,illustration ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,then long may here the ale-charged ,tankards shine1 ,long may the ,hop plant triumph o'er the ,vine4 ,brasenose ,college ,shrovetide ,poem4 ,the ,hop for his profit ,i thus do exalt4 ,it strengtheneth drink1 and it favoureth ,malt2 ,and being well brewed1 long kept it will last1 ,and drawing abide--if ye draw not too fast4 ,thomas ,tusser4 ,,use ,,and ,,importance ,,of ,,hops ,,in ,,beer3 ,,their ,,introduction ,,and ,,history4 -- ,,hop-,,growers' ,,troubles4 -- ,,medicinal ,,qualities4 -- ,,economical ,,uses4 -- ,,hop-,,pickers4 ,the hops used in beer-brewing are the female flowers of the hop plant known to botanists as the ,humulus lupulus of ,linnus4 ,at first sight it may seem strange that hops and wolves should have anything in common1 but it has been explained that the word lupulus comes from the name by which the ,romans called the hop plant--,lupus ,salictarius--the idea being that the hop was as destructive among the willows 7where it grew7 as a wolf among sheep4 ,though hops are now staple articles of a large commerce1 and largely cultivated in ,england1 ,america1 ,belgium1 ,france1 and our colonies1 some few hundred years ago their valuable qualities were little known in this country4 ,how1 when1 and where the flowers of the hop plant were first used to give to beer its delicious flavour and keeping qualities1 is not #ff accurately known4 ,pliny1 in his ,natural ,history1 states that the ,germans preserved ale with hops1 and there is a ,rabbinical tradition1 referring to still earlier times1 to the effect that the ,jews1 during their captivity in ,babylon1 found the use of hopped ale a protection against their old enemy1 leprosy4 ,in a letter of donations1 the great ,king ,pepin uses the word 8,humuloria10 meaning hop gardens4 ,mesne1 an ,arabian physician1 who wrote about the year #hde1 also mentions hops2 and ,basil ,valentine1 an alchemist of the #adth century1 specifically refers to the use of the hop in beer4 ,dr4 ,thudichum1 in his pamphlet1 ,alcoholic ,drinks1 tells us that in early days of beer production wild hops only were used1 as is the practice at the present day in ,styria1 but that in some foreign countries the plant has been largely cultivated for nearly a thousand years4 ,it is a well-known fact that in the eighth and ninth centuries1 hop gardens1 called ,humuloria or ,humuleta1 existed in ,france and ,germany4 ,that the hop was known to the ,english before the ,conquest in some form or other1 is proved by the reference to the hymele1 or hop plant1 in the ,anglo-,saxon version of the ,herbarium1 of ,apuleius4 ,although no trace of the word hymele now remains in our every-day language1 it is found in ,danish as 8humle10 and is only the ,english form of the ,latin humulus4 ,the ,herbarium just mentioned contains a remarkable passage with reference to 8hymele40 8,this wort10 it says1 8is to that degree laudable that men mix it with their usual drinks40 ,the usual drinks of the ,english were undoubtedly malt liquors1 and this passage would go far to show that even in ,saxon times the hop was used in ,english brewing4 ,cockayne1 the learned editor of ,saxon ,leechdoms1 is inclined to this opinion1 and he instances in confirmation of it that special mention is made of the hedge-hymele1 as though there existed at that time a cultivated hop from which it had to be distinguished2 he also cites the name ,hymel-tun1 in ,worcestershire 7now ,himbleton71 which he states is mentioned in ,anglo-,saxon deeds1 and which could hardly have signified anything less than hop yard4 ,the word hopu 7i4e41 hops7 also occurs in ,saxon documents4 ,ewe-hymele is mentioned in ,saxon ,leechdoms1 and would probably signify the female hop4 ,in the year #hbb there is a record that the millers of ,corbay were freed by the abbot from all labours relating to hops1 and a few years later hops are mentioned by ,ludovicus ,germanicus4 ,the introduction of hops into ,england has been generally assigned to the early part of the sixteenth century4 ,the old but unreliable distich1 #fg ,hops1 ,reformation1 bays and beer ,came into ,england all in one year1#ce points to a period subsequent to #aebj as the time when the great improvement of adding hops to malt liquors was first practised in this country4 ,this rhyme probably refers to the settling of certain ,flemings in ,kent1 to be mentioned anon1 which no doubt gave a great impulse to the use of hops2 it cannot well refer to their first introduction1 as they were known in ,england for many years previously and were used in beer-brewing nearly a century before the ,reformation4 #ce ,two other versions are to be found3 8,hops and turkeys1 carp and beer ,came into ,england all in one year20 and 8,turkeys1 carps1 hops1 pickerel1 and beer ,came into ,england all in one year40 ,the couplets also err as to pickerel1 which are mentioned in medival glossaries at a date long before the ,reformation4 ,in that curious old work the ,promptorium ,parvulorum 7#addj71 which is1 in fact1 an old ,english-,latin dictionary1 occur some passages which1 when taken in conjunction with the ,london ,records of a slightly later date1 seem to show that the introduction of hops into ,english brewing 7excepting their possible use in ,saxon times7 should be assigned to a period a little before the middle of the fifteenth century4 ,the word 8hoppe0 is defined as 8sede for beyre4 ,humulus secundum extraneos40 8,bere0 is defined as 8a drynke4 ,humulina1 vel humuli potus1 aut cervisia hummulina40 ,the inference to be drawn from these passages is that hops and beer1 in the sense of hopped ale1 were known in ,england some time previous to the year #addj4 ,the compiler1 however1 shows by his definition of 8bere0 as a 8drynke10 that the word required some explanation1 for when he mentions 8ale10 he simply gives the ,latin equivalent1 8cervisia40 ,he certainly regarded beer as an interloper1 as shown by his note on ale1 8,et nota bene quod est potus ,anglorum40 ,four years after the date of the publication of the ,promptorium1 ,william ,lounde and ,richard ,veysey were appointed inspectors or surveyors of the 8bere-bruers0 of the ,city of ,london1 as distinguished from the ale-brewers who were at this time a company governed by a master and wardens4 ,ten years later an #fh ordinance for the government of the beer-brewers was sanctioned by the ,lord ,mayor4 ,from this date the ,city ,records contain frequent mention of the beer-brewers as distinct from the ale-brewers4 ,however1 beer1 8the son of ale10 as an old writer calls it1 did not rapidly attain popularity4 ,ten years after the date last referred to1 the beer-brewers petitioned the ,lord ,mayor and 8,worshipfull soveraignes the ,aldermen0 of the ,city of ,london1 in these terms3--8,to the full honourable ,lord the ,maire1 etc4 ,shewen mekely unto youre good ,lordshipp and maistershippes1 the goode folke of this famous citee the which usen ,bere-bruyng within the same1 that where all mistiers and craftys of the sd citee have rules and ordenances by youre grete auctoritees for the common wele of this honourable citee made1 and profite of the same craftys10 but the petitioners have none such rules1 and therefore the citizens are liable to be imposed upon 8in measure of barell1 kilderkyns and firkyns1 and in hoppes and other greynes the which to the said mistiere apperteynen4 4 4 4 ,it is surmysed upon them that often tymes they make their bere of unseasonable malt the which is of little prise and unholsome for mannes body for their singular availe1 forasmuch as the comon peple for lacke of experience cannot know the perfitnesse of bere as wele as of the ale10 the petitioners pray that certain regulations of the trade may be established by authority4 ,passing over another period of twenty years1 during which the ,city ,records contain nothing to show whether hops and beer advanced or declined in popularity1 we find that in the first year of ,richard ,,iii4 a petition was presented to ,lord ,mayor ,billesdon1 by the ,brewers' ,company1 showing 8that whereas by the sotill and crafty means of foreyns#cf dwelling withoute the franchises 4 4 4 4 4 a deceivable and unholsome fete in bruyng of ale within the said citee nowe of late is founde and practised1 that is to say1 in occupying and puttyng of hoppes and other things in the said ale1 contrary to the good and holesome manner of bruynge of ale of old tyme used1 4 4 4 to the great deceite and hurt of the ,king's liege people4 4 4 4 ,pleas it therefore your saide good lordshyppe to forbid the putting into ale of any hops1 herbs1 or any other like thing1 but onely licour1 malte and yeste40 ,the petition is granted and a penalty of #fs4 #h;d4 is laid on every barrel of ale so brewed contrary to the ancient use4 ,this early use of the technical #fi term 8licour10 or liquor1 instead of water is noteworthy4 ,we learn by a note in the ,letter-book that the fine on putting hops into ale was shortly afterwards reduced to #cs4 #d;d4 the barrel1 while any other kind of adulteration is still to subject the offender to the full fine of #fs4 #h;d4 ,it will have been observed that it is not the making of beer which is forbidden1 but the putting of hops into ale1 and selling the drink as ale4 ,there is abundant evidence to show that beer continued to be made and sold with the sanction of the authorities1 and that the beer-brewers1 many of whom at this time were ,dutchmen1 practised a separate craft from that of the ale-brewers4 ,two years after the date of the last petition a regulation was made that no beer-brewer is to be 8affered0 7fined7 more than #fs4 #h;d41 nor an ale-brewer more than two shillings1 for breaking the assize4 ,the oath of the ale-searchers contains the following passage3--8,ye shall swear 4 4 4 to search and assay 4 4 4 that the ale be holsom1 weell soden and able for mannes body1 and made with none other stuff but only with holsom and clere ale-yest1 watyr and malt1 and such as you find unholsom for mannes body or brewed with any other thing except with watyr and malt1 be it with rosen1 hoppes1 bere-yest1 or any other craft1 4 4 40 you shall duly report for punishment4 ,in the same year it is recorded that the beer-brewers were ordered to use 8gode clene1 sweete1 holsom greyne and hoppes10 and the rulers of the beer-brewers are to have powers of inspection of hops and other grains4 #cf ,a 8foreyn0 was one who was not a freeman of the ,city--no reference to nationality4 ,prosecutions for the use of hops were frequent1 but they were for putting hops into ale1 and not for brewing beer4 ,in the twelfth year of ,henry ,,vii41 ,john ,barowe was presented by the wardens of the brewers because he brewed ale with beer-yeast1 8quod est corpori humano insalubre40 ,nine years later ,robert ,dodworth1 brewer's servant1 confessed that he had brewed 8a burthen of ale in the house of his master in ,fleet ,street with hops1 contrary to the laws and laudable acts and customs of the city40 ,in the tenth year of ,henry ,,viii41 ,william ,shepherd1 brewer's servant to ,philip ,cooper1 8occupying the feat of bruing10 made a deposition that he had 8once since ,michaelmas last brewed ale with hops1 but that his master knew not of it10 but that he had heard that other servants had brewed with hops1 8and that was the cause why he brewed with hoppes1 and more he would not say40 ,philip ,cooper1 however1 was evidently suspected1 for in the same records we find that he was compelled to bring into the ,court 8a standing cup with a cover of gylt with three red hearts in the bottom of the cup to stand to the order of the ,court touching the brewing with hoppes40 ,on #gj payment of a fine of five shillings1 his gage is ordered to be returned to him4 ,many other passages could be quoted from the ,city ,records in support of the view that beer-brewing was not forbidden1 but only the adulteration1 as it was considered1 of the old ,english ale with an admixture of hops4 ,we have dwelt somewhat fully upon this part of the subject1 as there appears to be an almost universal misconception as to the date of the introduction of hops into ,england1 and as to their use having been for some time altogether prohibited by the law of the land4 ,the only authority for this last mentioned idea1 seems to be the statement of ,fuller1 in his ,worthies of ,england1 that hops were forbidden as the result of a petition which was presented in the time of ,henry ,,vi4 against 8the wicked weed called hops40 ,no statute to this effect is in existence1 no record is to be found in the rolls of ,parliament of any such petition1 and the statement is in opposition to the evidence we have been able to collect on the subject4 ,about the year #aebd a large number of ,flemish immigrants settled in ,kent1 cultivated hops and brewed beer1 and soon caused that county to become famous for its hop gardens and the excellence of their produce4 ,to these strangers is perhaps due the chief credit of having enlightened the ,british mind on the subject of bitter beer1 and their advent is probably the event pointed to in the old couplet already quoted4 ,among the numerous officials appointed to enforce the regulations of the ,city1 were persons called hop-searchers1 whose duty it was to search for defective hops1 which1 when found were burnt4 ,wriothesley's ,chronicle mentions that 8on the #ajth daie of ,september1 #aeea1 was burned in ,finsburie ,field ,,xxxi sacke and pokettes of hopps in the afternoune1 being nought1 and not holsome for man's bodie1 and condemned by an ,act made by my ,lord ,maior and his bretheren the aldermen the #ajth daie of ,september1 at which court six comeners of the ,cittie of ,london were apoynted to be serchers for a hole yeare for the said hopps2 and they were sworne the fifth daie of this moneth and made search ymediatlie for the same40 ,the popular taste is not a thing to be changed in a day1 and at that happy period of history when railways1 penny posts1 newspapers1 stump orators and other nineteenth-century methods of enlightenment were unknown and undreamt of1 it may well be understood that the knowledge of this great improvement spread but slowly4 ,not only were the ,english slow to appreciate what the ,flemings had done for them1 but they believed that they were like to be poisoned by the new-fangled drink which was not in their eyes to be compared to the sweet and #ga thick1 but honest and unsophisticated ,english ale4 ,the writers of the day are loud in their abuse of beer4 ,in the passages from ,andrew ,boorde's ,dyetary 7#aedb71 quoted in ,chapter ,i4 7p4 #f71 ale is described as being the natural drink of ,englishmen1 and made of malt and water1 while beer1 which is composed of malt1 hops1 and water1 is the natural drink of a ,dutchman1 and of late is much used in ,england1 to the great detriment of many ,englishmen4 ,there is a truly insular ring about this4 ,we should like to enlighten old ,andrew's darkness by a draught of sparkling ,burton4 ,boorde undoubtedly expresses the popular opinion of the period1 for from ,rastall's ,book of ,entries we learn that an ale-man brought his action against his ,brewer for spoiling his ale1 by putting in it a certain weed called a hopp1 and recovered damages4 ,even ,harry the ,eighth1 who of all our kings was the greatest lover of good things--and a few bad ones--was blind to the merits of the hop1 and enjoined the ,royal brewer of ,eltham that he put neither hops nor brimstone into the ale4 ,possibly sulphuring1 of which a word or two anon1 was then in use2 we cannot otherwise account for the mention of brimstone4 ,this was in #aecj1 only six years after the ,flemings had settled in ,kent4 ,abused by medical writers as drink only fit for ,dutchmen1 objected to by the king1 and disliked by the majority of the people1 the song-writers of the day1 of course1 had a good deal to say against the new drink4 ,in the ,high and ,mightie ,commendation of the ,virtue of a ,pot of ,good ,ale1 it is hardly surprising to find the following lines3-- ,and in very deed1 the hops but a weed ,brought over 'gainst law1 and here set to sale1 ,would the law were removed1 and no more ,beer brewed1 ,but all good men betake them to a pot of good ale4 99 99 99 99 99 ,but to speak of killing1 that am ,i not willing1 ,for that in a manner were but to rail1 ,but ,beer hath its name 'cause it brings to the ,bier1 ,therefore well fare1 say ,i1 to a pot of good ale4 ,too many1 ,i wis1 with their deaths proved this1 ,and therefore 7if ancient records do not fail7 ,he that first brewed the hop1 was rewarded with a rope1 ,and found his ,beer far more bitter than ,ale4 #gb ,the ale-wives and brewers1 however1 were wiser than their customers1 and1 induced also by the fact that their hopped ale went not sour as of yore1 stuck to their colours--nailed to a hop pole no doubt--and slowly but surely educated the taste of the people4 ,it was1 however1 a long process4 ,henry1 in his ,history of ,england1 vol4 #f1 referring to the ,scottish diet about the end of the sixteenth century1 writes3-- 8,ale and gascony wines were the principal liquors2 but mead1 cyder1 and perry were not uncommon4 ,hops were still scarce1 and seldom employed in ,ale1 which was brewed therefore in small quantities1 to be drunk while new4 ,at the ,king's table ,ale was prohibited as unfit for use till five days old40 ,from a whimsical old book1 entitled ,wine1 ,beer1 ,ale1 and ,tobacco1 a dialogue1 in which the two leading malt liquors of the day 7#afcj7 converse1 and give their own views on the subject1 it appears that even as late as the seventeenth century beer was little known in country districts1 though popular in ,london4 ,beer is introduced making a pun on his own name2 he says to ,wine1 8,beere leave1 sir40 ,the chief points in ,ale's argument1 which is better than that of any of the others1 are contained in the following passage3--8,you1 ,wine and ,beer1 are fain to take up a corner anywhere--your ambition goes no farther than a cellar2 the whole house where ,i am goes by my name1 and is called ,ale-house4 ,who ever heard of a ,wine-house1 or a ,beer-house8 ,my name1 too1 is1 of a stately etymology--you must bring forth your latin4 ,ale1 so please you1 from alo1 which signifieth nourish--,i am the choicest and most luscious of potations40 ,wine1 ,beer1 and ,ale at last compose their differences1 each having a certain dominion assigned to him1 and join in singing these lines3-- ,wine4--,i1 generous ,wine am for the court4 ,beer4--,the citie call for ,beere4 ,ale4--,but ,ale1 bonnie ,ale1 like a lord of the soile4 ,in the country shall domineere4 ,chorus4--,then let us be merry1 wash sorry away1 ,wine1 ,beer and ,ale shall be drunk this day4 ,in the end ,tobacco appears--,he arrogates an equality with ,wine--8,you and ,i both come out of a pipe40 ,the reply is1 8,prithee go smoke elsewhere40 8,don't incense me1 don't inflame ,tobacco10 he retorts2 but is told1 8,no one fears your puffing--turn over a new leaf1 ,tobacco1 most high and mighty ,trinidado40 #gc ,in an old play printed a few years later 7#afei7 it is indicated that ale was still generally made without hops3-- ,ale is immortal3 ,and1 be there no stops ,in bonny lads quaffing1 ,can live without hops4 ,if ,defoe's statement on the subject1 in his ,tour ,through ,great ,britain1 is correct1 it must1 indeed1 have been many years before the use of hops made any headway in the northern portions of the kingdom4 8,as to the ,north of ,england10 he writes1 8they formerly used but few ,hops there1 their ,drink being chiefly pale smooth ale1 which required no hops2 and consequently they planted no hops in all that part of ,england ,north of ,trent4 4 4 4 ,but as for some years past1 they not only brew great quantities of ,beer in the ,north1 but also use hops in the brewing of their ale1 much more than they did before1 so they all come south of ,trent to buy their hops40 ,in the reign of ,edward ,,vi41 by the ,statute #e and #f ,ed4 ,,vi4 c4 #e 7repealed #e ,eliz4 c4 #b71 it was enacted that all land formerly in tillage should again be cultivated1 excepting 8land set with saffron or hops40 ,this is1 we believe1 the first mention of hops in the ,statute book4 ,the next ,act on the subject was one passed in #afjc1 by which regulations were made for the curing of hops1 which process had thenceforward to be carried out under the inspection of the officers of excise4 ,from a petition presented by the ,brewers' ,company to ,lord ,burleigh1 a few years previously 7#aeia71 we learn that the price of hops was then #c #afs4 #h;d4 to #d #ajs4 #f;d4 per cwt41 instead of #fs4 #h;d4 as formerly1 and was1 the ,brewers said1 in quality well worth three hundredweight of those sold at that time4 ,hops were evidently coming into favour4 ,we gather from an old receipt that about the end of the century1 ,beer was made with 8#dj lbs4 of hoppeys to #dj qrs4 of grain40 ,illustration3 ,a ,perfite ,platform of a ,hoppe ,garden4 ,of ramming of ,poales4 8,then with a peece of woode as bigge belowe as the great ende of one of youre ,poales1 ramme the earth that lieth at the outsyde of the ,poale40 ,cutting ,hoppe ,rootes4 8,when you pull downe your hylles 4 4 4 you should undermine them round about40 ,of ,tying of ,hoppes to the ,poales4 8,when your hoppes are growne about one or two foote high1 bynde up 7with a rushe or grasse7 such as decline from the ,poales1 wynding them as often about the same ,poales as you can1 and directing them alwayes according to the course of the ,sunne40 ,about the earliest ,english work on the culture of hops is an old black-letter pamphlet published in #aegd 8at the ,signe of the ,starre1 in ,paternoster ,rowe40 ,it is entitled1 8,a ,perfite ,platforme of a ,hoppe ,garden1 and necessarie instructions for the making and mayntenance thereof1 with notes and rules for reformation of all abuses1 commonly practised therein1 very necessary and expedient for all men to have1 which in any wise have to doe with hops40 ,the author was one ,reynolde ,scot1 and the little volume is adorned with quaint illustrations1 and tastefully designed initial letters4 ,the work is dedicated to #ge 8,willyam ,lovelace ,esquire1 ,sergeaunt at the ,lawe10 whom the author desires to accompany him in a consideration of 8a matter of profite1 or rather with a poynt of good ,husbandrie1 7in aparance base and tedious1 but in use necessarie and commodious1 and in effect pleasant and profitable7 7that is to saye7 to look downe into the bowels of your grounde1 and to seeke about your house at ,beddersden 7which ,i see you desire to garnish with many costly commodities7 for a convenient plot to be applyed to a ,hoppe ,garden1 to the furtherance and accomplishing whereof1 ,i promyse and assure you1 the labour of my handes1 the assistance of my advise1 and the effect of myne experience40 ,this little work is recommended to the reader 7the recommendation covers four pages7 more particularly 8as a recompence to the labourer1 as a commoditie to the house-keeper1 as a comfort to the poor1 and as a benefite to the ,countrie or ,commonwealth1 adding thus much hereunto1 that there cannot lightly be employed grounde to more profitable use1 nor labour to more certain gaynes2 howbeit1 with this note1 that no mysterie is so perfect1 no floure so sweete1 no scripture so holy1 but by abuse a corrupt body1 ascending to his venomous nature1 may draw poyson out of the same1 and therefore blame not this poore trade for that it maketh men riche in yielding double profite40 ,the author goes on to say that it grieves him to see how 8the ,flemings envie our practise herein0 and declare ,english hops to be bad1 so that they may send the more into ,england4 ,from this it would seem clear that at all events foreign hops were extensively used in ,english beer at that date1 and ,english hop gardens by no means common4 ,scot1 who must have been a man of common sense1 gives good advice to intending hop growers4 ,they are to consider three things3 8,first1 whether you have1 or can procure unto yourself1 any grounde good for that purpose0 7i4e41 the cultivation of hops74 8,secondly1 of the convenient standing thereof4 ,thirdly1 of the quantitie4 ,and this ,i saye by the way1 if the grounde you deale withall1 be not your own enheritance1 procure unto your selfe some certayne terme therein1 least another man reape the fruite of your traveyle and charge40 ,from the epilogue1 which concludes with a tremendous denunciation of those who allow strangers from beyond the seas to bring into the country that which we ought to grow ourselves1 we cull the following quaint passage3 8,there will some smell out the profitable savour of this herbe1 some wyll gather the fruit thereof1 some will make a sallet therewith 7which is good in one respect for the bellye1 and in another for the #gf ,purse71 and when the grace and sweetenesse hereof conceived1 some will dippe their fingers therein up to the knuckles1 and some will be glad to licke the ,dishe1 and they that disdayne to be partakers hereof1 commonly prove to be such as have mountaynes in fantasie1 and beggary in possession40 ,reynolde ,scot's pamphlet is most complete in the directions it gives concerning hop-growing1 and1 strange to say1 the system of cultivation seems little changed since then4 ,the author levels the following remarks at the heads of those who might1 yet will not1 grow hops3-- 8,methinks ,i might aptlye compare such men as have grounde fitte for this purpose1 and will not employ it accordingly1 to ale-house knightes1 partly for the small devotion which both the one and the other have unto ,hoppes1 but especially for that many of these ale knights havyng good drinke at home of their owne1 can be content to drinke moore abroade at an ale-house1 so they may sit close by it4 ,let them expounde this comparison that buy their hoppes at ,poppering1 and may have them at home with more ease1 and lesse charge40 ,honest old ,thomas ,tusser1 in his 8,five ,hundred ,points of ,good ,husbandry0 7#aehj71 has a good deal to say about hops4 ,he gives a charmingly quaint but very practical 8lesson where and when to plant a good hop-yard40 ,whom fancy persuadeth among other cropps ,to have for his spending1 sufficient of hopps1 ,must willingly follow1 of choyses to chuse2 ,such lessons approved1 as skilful do use4 ,ground gravely1 sandly1 and mixed with clay ,is naughty for hops1 any maner of way1 ,or if it be mingled with rubbish and stone1 ,for drienes and barrennes1 let it alone4 ,chuse soile for the hop of the rottenest mould ,well donged and wrought as a garden plot should1 ,not far from the water 7but not overflowne7 ,this lesson well noted is meete to be knowne4 ,the ,sunne in the ,south1 or els southly by west1 ,is joye to the hop as a welcomed gest1 ,but wind in the ,north1 or els northely and east1 ,to hop is as ill as fray in a feast4 #gg ,meete plot for a hopyard1 once found as is told1 ,make thereof accompt1 as of jewell of gold1 ,now dig it1 and leave it the sunne for to burne1 ,and afterwards fence it to serve for that turn4 ,among the directions for good husbandry for the various months1 ,tusser advises that-- ,in ,march at the furdest1 drye season or wet1 ,hope rootes so well chosen1 let skilful go set1 ,the goeler#cg and younger1 the better ,i love ,wel gutted#ch and pared1 the better they prove4 ,some layeth them crosewise1 along in the ground1 ,as high as the knee1 they do come up round4 ,some pricke up a sticke1 in the midds of the same3 ,that little round hillocke1 the better to frame6 ,some maketh a hollownes1 halfe a foote deepe1 ,with fower sets in it1 set slant wise a steepe ,one foote from another1 in order to lye1 ,and thereon a hillock1 as round as a pye4 99 99 99 99 99 ,by willows that groweth1 thy hopyard without1 ,and also by hedges1 thy meadowes about1 ,good hop hath a pleasure1 to climbe and to spread3 ,if sonne may have passage to comfort her hed4 #cg goeler goodlier4 #ch gutted taken off from the old roots4 ,the process of setting the hop-poles is thus described3-- ,get into thy hopyard with plentie of poles1 ,amongst those same hillocks deuide them by doles1 ,three poles to a hillock 7,i pas not how long7 ,shall yield thee more profit1 set deeplie and strong4 ,care must be taken to weed and to fence the hop garden3-- ,grasse1 thistle and mustard seede1 hemlock and bur1 ,tine1 mallow and nettle1 that keepe such a stur1 ,with peacock and turkie1 that nibbles off top1 ,are verie ill neighbors to seelie poore hop4 99 99 99 99 99 #gh ,if hops do looke brownish1 then are ye to slow1 ,if longer ye suffer1 those hops for to growe4 ,now1 sooner ye gather1 more profite is found1 ,if weather be faier1 and deaw of ye ground4 ,not break of1 but cut of1 from hop the hop string1 ,leave growing a little1 again for to spring4 ,whos hil about pared1 and therewith new clad1 ,that nurrish more sets1 against ,march to be had4 ,hop hillock discharged1 of every set ,see then without breaking1 ecche poll ye out get1 ,which being betangled1 above in the tops3 ,go carry to such1 as are plucking of hops4 ,we have quoted rather largely from ,tusser's poem1 thinking that it may interest hop-growers of the present day4 ,reynolde ,scot's appeal was not in vain1 for in #afjh there is no doubt that hop plantations were fairly abundant1 though the plant was not sufficiently cultivated for home consumption4 ,in that year an ,act was passed against the importation of spoilt hops4 ,until #afij1 however1 the greater part of supply was drawn from abroad1 and then1 to encourage home production1 a duty of twenty shillings per cwt4 over and above all other charges1 was put upon those imported4 ,walter ,blith1 writing in #afdc1 speaks of hops as a 8national commoditie40 ,in #agaj1 the duty of a penny per lb4 was imposed upon all hops reared in ,england1 and threepence on foreign hops4 ,in subsequent years slight variations were made in the amount of the duty1 and finally it was abolished1 when hop-grounds at once began to increase4 ,when the duty was high1 and hops scarce1 substitutes for ,humulus lupulus were experimented with1 among others1 pine and willow bark1 cascarilla bark1 quassia1 gentian1 colocynth1 walnut leaf1 wormwood bitter1 extract of aloes1 cocculus indicus berries1 capsicum1 and others too numerous to mention1 picric acid being perhaps the most modern4 ,none of these have been found to be an equivalent for the hop1 lacking its distinct and independent elements of activity4 ,so far we have treated solely of the somewhat chequered history of the hop4 ,let us now consider its merits and uses4 ,thus sang the poet3-- ,lo6 on auxiliary ,poles1 the ,hops ,ascending spiral1 rang'd in meet array3 #hj ,lo6 how the arable with ,barley-,grain ,stands thick1 o'er-shadow'd to the thirsty hind ,transporting prospect6--,these1------ --------infus'd an auburn ,drink compose ,wholesome of ,deathless ,fame4 ,illustration3 ,a ,perfite ,platform of a ,hoppe ,garden4 ,training the ,hoppe4 8,it shall not be amisse nowe and then to passe through your ,garden1 having in eche ,hande a forked wande1 directyng aright such ,hoppes as decline from the ,poales40 ,gathering the ,hoppe4 8,cutte them0 7the hop stalkes7 8a sunder wyth a sharpe hooke1 and wyth a forked staffe take them from the ,poales40 ,but from poets we do not1 as a rule1 gather much practical information1 except from such as worthy old ,tusser4 ,harrison1 in his description of ,england1 says3 8,the continuance of the drinke is alwaie determined after the quantitie of the hops1 so that being well hopped it lasteth longer40 ,a modern writer puts it thus3 8,the principal use of hops in brewing is for the preservation of malt liquor1 and to communicate to it an agreeably aromatic bitter flavour4 ,the best are used for ale and the finer kinds of malt liquor1 and inferior kinds are used for porter40 8,brew in ,october and hop it for long keeping10 was the excellent advice given by ,mortimer4 ,dr4 ,luke ,booker1 in his sequel poem to the ,hop ,garden1 of course devotes some lines to this subject3-- ,hop's potent essence1 ,ale4----bring hither1 ,boy6 ,that smiling goblet1 from the cask just brimmed ,where floats a pearly star4 ,by it inspired1 ,no purple wine--no ,muse's aid ,i ask1 ,to nerve my lines and bid them smoothly flow4 ,and in another place3-- ,then whencesoever the ,hop1 ,that flavouring zest and spirit to my cask ,imparts1 preservative--a needless truth ',twere to reveal4 ,there are1 whose accurate taste ,will tell the region where it mantling grew4 ,in relation to his allusion to a 8pearly star10 ,dr4 ,booker tells us that1 8,when ale is of sufficient strength and freshness1 there will always float a small cluster of minute pearl-like globules in the centre of the drinking vessel1 till the spirit of the liquor is evaporated40 ,hops are an essential to the brewer1 not only keeping the beer and giving it an exquisite flavour1 but also assisting1 if we may be pardoned for using a technical term in a work intended to be anything but technical1 to break down the fermentation4 ,hops are valuable according as they contain much or little of a yellow powder called lupuline1 and technically known as 8condition10 which is deposited in minute yellow adhesive globules underneath the #ha bracts of the flower tops1 and amounts to from #bj per cent4 to #cj per cent4 of the dry hops4 ,this powder has a powerful aromatic smell1 and is bitter to the taste4 ,it contains hop resin1 bitter acid of hops 7flavour familiar to bitter beer drinkers71 tannic acid1 and hop oils1 the chemical composition of which is not accurately known4 ,hops contain most lupuline when the flower is fully matured4 ,year-old hops only command about half the price of new4 ,those two years old are called 8old-olds10 and are still less valuable4 ,after having been five years in store they are worthless to brewers4 ,nearly all hops intended to be kept are more or less 7the less the better7 subjected to the fumes of sulphur1 which1 oxidising the essential oil1 converts it into valerianic acid1 and combines with the sulphur to form a solid body4 ,thus the oil1 which would otherwise be the cause of mould1 is destroyed1 and the hops can be kept4 ,we believe it is the practice of the best brewers to use a mixture of new and old hops1 the latter being slightly sulphured1 so slightly1 indeed1 that the smell of the sulphur cannot be detected4 ,much has been written on the injurious effects of sulphuring1 both to the fermentation and the health of beer-drinkers1 and some people have very strong views on the subject4 ,in #ahee a commission1 which included ,liebig among its members1 was appointed by the ,bavarian ,government to inquire into the matter4 ,after experiments which lasted over a period of two years1 a report was issued in which it was stated that in the opinion of the commissioners1 sulphuring was beneficial to the hops1 and in no way prejudicial to the fermentation4 ,in #ahgg1 a method was made known of preserving hops without sulphur4 ,the oil which prevents the hops from keeping was separated from them by a chemical process1 and bottled4 ,the hops were then pressed and kept in the usual way4 ,when required for brewing1 the hops and oil could again be united by adding ten or twelve drops of the latter to every twenty-two gallons of beer4 ,this system does not seem to have found favour with hop merchants4 ,aloes have occasionally been used to restore decayed hops1 though with such poor success that we should hardly think the experiment was often repeated4 ,professor ,bradly1 a ,cambridge professor of botany1 wrote as follows3--8,i cannot help taking notice here of a method which has been used to stale and decayed hops1 to make them recover their bitterness1 which is to unbag them1 and sprinkle them with aloes and water1 which1 ,i have known1 has spoiled great quantities of drink about ,london2 for even where the water1 the malt1 the brewer1 #hb and the cellars are each good1 a bad hop will spoil all3 so that every one of these particulars should be well chosen before brewing1 or else we must expect a bad account of our labour40 ,the age of hops is known by their appearance1 odour1 and feel4 ,new unsulphured hops1 for instance1 when rubbed through the hand feel oily4 ,in their first year they are of a bright green colour1 have an aromatic smell and the lupuline is a bright yellow4 ,in the second year they get darker1 have a slightly cheesy odour1 and the lupuline becomes a golden yellow4 ,in the third year the lupuline is a dark yellow1 the smell being about the same as in the second year4 ,in the hedges about ,canton is found a variety of hop growing wild4 ,it has been named the ,humulus ,japonicus4 8,although this species10 says ,seemann1 in his ,botany of the ,voyage of ,h4,m4,s4 ,herald1 8was published many years ago by ,von ,siebold and ,zuccarini1 we still find nearly all our systematic works asserting that there is only one species of ,humulus1 as there seems to be only one species of ,cannabis4 ,this1 however1 is a very good species1 at once distinguished from the common ,hop by the entire absence of those resinous spherical glands1 with which the scales of the imbricated heads of the latter are scattered1 and to which they owe their value in the preparation of beer1 making the substitution of the one for the other for economical purposes an impossibility40 ,so much then for the first and principal use of hops--and yet a few lines more on the same subject2 from ,christopher ,smart's poem of the ,hop ,garden3-- ,be it so4 ,but ,ceres1 rural ,goddess1 at the best ,meanly supports her vot'ry1 enough for her ,if ill-persuading hunger she repell1 ,and keep the soul from fainting3 to enlarge1 ,to glad the heart1 to sublimate the mind ,and wing the flagging spirits to the sky1 ,require the united influence and aid ,of ,bacchus1 ,god of ,hops1 with ,ceres joined1 ',tis he shall generate the buxom beer4 ,but hops have other uses than the generation of 8the buxom beer40 ,the discovery1 which we consider an important one1 was made a few years back that hop-bine makes excellent ensilage4 ,the subject was #hc first mentioned1 so far as we know1 in a letter to ,the ,field of ,december #fth1 #ahhd1 from ,a4 ,l41 probably1 agent to ,h4 ,a4 ,brassey1 ,esq41 of ,aylesford4 ,the writer gave an account of the opening of a silo1 in one compartment of which had been placed eight tons of hop-bines1 in the beginning of the previous ,september4 ,an account of the experiment was also sent by a visitor at the farm1 from whose letter the following extract seems to us well worth perusal3--8,the hop-bine is at present an entirely waste material1 except for littering purposes2 and not a few of the local farmers were anxious to see how it would turn out1 and whether stock would eat the hop-bine ensilage or not4 ,no experiment could be more satisfactory4 ,the apparent condition and smell of a great deal of it was even superior to that of several of the other varieties2 and when a bag of it was taken to the homestead and offered to some fattening steers1 which had been well fed just before1 and were not in the least hungry1 they devoured it with great alacrity1 and seemed heartily to enjoy the new food2 consequently this will be good news to hop-growers40 ,early in '#he1 the following important letter on the subject appeared in the ,kentish ,gazette1 from ,mr4 ,t4 ,m4 ,hopkins1 ,lower ,wick1 ,worcester3-- 8,having learnt from ,mr4 ,seymour1 agent to ,h4 ,a4 ,brassey1 ,esq41 that hop-bine made first-rate ensilage1 last ,oct4 ,i made two stacks of it #af;ft4 by #af;ft41 and #ah;ft4 high4 ,after letting it ferment freely1 ,i pressed down with ,reynolds and ,co4's patent screw press1 and next day filled up again2 and1 when sufficiently fermented1 again pressed down1 and this lasted all through the hop-picking4 ,i have now used nearly the whole of it1 and calculate that it has saved me some #hj tons of hay2 no more hop-bine do ,i waste in future as ,i have hitherto done4 ,my horses have had nothing else for two months1 excepting their usual allowance of corn1 and ,i never had them looking better4 ,i have also had #ajj head of cattle1 stores1 cows1 and calves feeding on it for a fortnight1 and they do well4 ,dr4 ,voelcker1 chemist to the ,r4,a4,s4,e41 who has analysed it1 says3 #8,it has plenty of good material in it1 and is decidedly rich in nitrogen1 nor is the amount of acid excessive or likely to harm cattle4' ,another analyst1 ,mr4 ,w4 ,e4 ,porter1 ,f4,c4,s41 says3 #8,it contains more flesh-forming matter and less indigestible fibre than hay dried at #bab4' ,planters should leave off growing hops to sell at present average prices1 #djs4 to #ejs41 which is a dead loss4 ,let the plant run wild1 and they may every season cut two or three immense crops of material that will make ensilage of unexceptionable quality40 #hd ,to this there is little we can add4#ci ,the importance of the subject is evident4 ,we may1 however1 express a hope that hop-growers will not act on ,mr4 ,hopkins' suggestion1 and only grow hops for the sake of the bine--,english hops are too good for that4 ,we have spoken of hop-bine ensilage as a discovery1 but ,french farmers have for years mixed green hop-leaves with their cows' food1 under the belief1 rightly or wrongly we know not1 that it increases the flow of milk4 ,possibly in the far past hops were cultivated as fodder1 and even used as ensilage4 ,silos we know were used anciently1 though only recently re-introduced owing principally to the attention called to them in ,the ,field and the agricultural journals4 #ci ,in a letter with which we have recently been favoured by ,mr4 ,hopkins1 that gentleman says3 8,i have every reason to believe in the great value of ,hop-,bine ,ensilage 4 4 4 milking-cows do well with it1 and it does not affect the flavour of the milk40 ,the stem of the hop contains a vegetable wax1 and sap from which can be made a durable reddish brown4 ,its ash is used in the manufacture of ,bohemian glass2 and it also makes excellent pulp for paper4 ,from its fibres ropes and coarse textile fabrics of considerable strength have been made4 ,the ,van de ,schelldon process of cloth-making from the stem of the hop1 invented1 we believe1 in #ahff1 is shortly as follows3 ,the stalks are cut1 done up in bundles1 and steeped like hemp4 ,after steeping they are dried in the sun4 ,they are then beaten with mallets to loosen the fibres1 which are afterwards carded and woven in the usual way4 ,it is from the thicker stems that ropes can be made4 ,several patents have been taken out for manufacturing paper from hops4 ,one taken out by a ,mr4 ,henry ,dyer was for paper made of fresh or spent hops1 or spent malt1 alone or combined with other materials4 ,in #ahgc a meeting of paper-makers was held in ,france1 before whom was exhibited a textile material made from the bark of the hop-stalk1 the outer skin being removed and subjected to chemical treatment4 ,it was in long pieces1 and supple and delicate of texture4 ,about ten years ago it was announced1 in a journal devoted to photography1 that an infusion of hops1 mixed with pyrogallic acid1 albumen of eggs1 and filtered in the ordinary way1 could be used as a preservative for the plates then in use by photographers4 ,plates preserved with this1 dried hard with a fine gloss1 and yielded negatives of very high quality4 ,a mixture of beer and albumen was formerly used #he for the same purpose1 but owing to the varying quality and properties of the beer1 was very uncertain in its action4 ,the root of the hop is not without its uses1 containing starchy substances which can be made into glucose and alcohol4 ,it also contains a certain amount of tannin1 which1 it has been suggested1 might be used with advantage in tanneries4 ,until recently trumpeted forth in the advertisements of a certain patent medicine1 it was not generally known outside the medical profession that hops possessed medicinal qualities of considerable value4 ,old medical writers1 however1 must have changed their views on the subject within a hundred years after the time of ,andrew ,boorde1 from whose works we have already quoted a few lines4 ,wm4 ,coles1 ,herbalist1 in his ,history of ,plants1 published in #afeg1 states that certain preparations of hops are cures for about half the ills that flesh is heir to4 ,another old writer declares the young shoots of the hop1 eaten like asparagus1 to be very wholesome and effectual to loosen the body 7the poorer classes in some parts of ,europe still eat the young hops as a vegetable72 the head and tendrils good to purify the blood in the scurvy and most other cutaneous diseases 7which scurvy is not71 and the decoctions of the flower and syrup thereof useful against pestilential fevers4 ,juleps and apozems are also prepared with hops for hypochondriacal and hysterical affections2 and a pillow stuffed with hops is used to induce sleep4 ,this last method1 by the way1 was taken advantage of by the medical advisers of ,george ,,iii4 ,that unfortunate king1 when in a demented condition1 always slept on a pillow so prepared4 ,another writer tells us that the ,spaniards were in the habit of boiling a pound of hop roots in a gallon of water1 reducing it to six pints1 and drinking half a pint when in bed of a morning1 under the belief that it possessed the same qualities as sarsaparilla4 ,dr4 ,brooks1 in his ,dispensatory1 published in #agec1 concurs with the older writers on the subject4 ,observations and ,experiments on the ,humulus ,lupulus of ,linnus1 with an account of its use in ,gout and other ,diseases1 is the title of a pamphlet by a ,mr4 ,freake1 of ,tottenham ,court ,road1 published in #ahjf4 ,the author states that a patient of his1 who was in want of a bitter tincture1 found all the usual remedies disagree with him1 and after numerous unsatisfactory experiments1 fell back upon a preparation of hops1 which appeared to answer its purpose4 ,this led ,mr4 ,freake to try further experiments with the hop1 when he came to the conclusion that it was an excellent remedy for relieving the pains of gout1 acting sometimes when opium failed4 #hf ,hops have also been employed with good effect in poultices4 ,dr4 ,trotter1 in one of his medical works1 quotes a letter from an assistant of ,dr4 ,geach1 once senior surgeon of the ,royal ,hospital at ,plymouth1 in which the writer says that he had during six months experimented with hops1 and found that a poultice made of a strong decoction of hops1 oatmeal1 and water was an excellent remedy for ulcers1 which should first be fomented with the decoction4 ,dr4 ,paris1 writing of the hop about the year #ahbj1 says1 8,it is now generally admitted that they constitute the most valuable ingredient in malt liquors4 ,independently of the flavour and tonic virtues which they communicate1 they precipitate1 by means of their astringent principle1 the vegetable mucilage1 and thus remove from the beer the active principle of its fermentation2 without hops1 therefore1 we must either drink our malt liquors new and ropy1 or old and sour40 ,in the introduction to ,murray's ,handbook of ,kent it is stated that invalids are occasionally recommended to pass whole days in hop grounds as a substitute for the usual exhibition of ,bass or ,allsopp4 ,in hop gardens the air is no doubt impregnated with lupuline1 so there may be something in this4 ,at the present day lupuline is often used in medicine4 ,lupuline was the name given by ,ives to the yellow dust covering the female flower of hops4 ,later1 ,ives1 ,chevallier1 and ,pellatau gave that name1 not to the dust1 but to the bitter principle it contains4 ,the recognized preparations of hops are an infusion1 a tincture1 and an extract4 ,they are stomachic1 tonic1 and soporific4 ,dr4 ,john ,gardner1 in one of his works on medicine1 says that 8bitter ale1 or the lupuline in pills which it forms by simply rubbing between the fingers and warming1 are the best forms for using hops in dyspepsia and feeble appetite1 which they will often relieve40 ,the lupuline powder is easily separated from the hops by means of a sieve4 ,a hop bath to relieve pain is also recommended by ,dr4 ,gardner for certain painful internal diseases4 ,it is made thus3 two pounds of hops are boiled in two gallons of water for half an hour1 then strained and pressed1 and the fluid added to about thirty gallons of water4 ,this bath has been much praised4 ,hop beer 7without alcohol7 is another preparation of the plant which has been recommended4 ,in ,america the hop is highly appreciated for medicinal purposes4 ,there are three preparations of it in the authorized code3 a tincture1 a liquid extract1 and an oleo-resin4 ,so much1 then1 for the history and economic and medicinal uses of #hg the hop4 ,before we close this chapter it is our intention to give a short account of the hop-growing countries and districts1 of hopfields1 of hop-growers' multifarious troubles1 and some description of what are perhaps the greatest curiosities of the subject--the hop-pickers4 ,the ,european hop-growing countries stand in the following order3 ,germany takes the lead with about #dgg1jjj acres of hop gardens1 ,england following1 and then ,belgium1 ,austria1 ,france1 and other states 7,denmark1 ,greece1 ,portugal1 c471 in which the acreage is insignificant4 ,according to ,dr4 ,thudichum1 #ec1jjj1jjj kilogrammes of hops are produced annually in ,europe1 and in good years production may rise to over #hj1jjj1jjj4 ,in ,america hops have been cultivated for more than two centuries1 having been introduced into the ,new ,netherlands in #afbi and into ,virginia in #afdh4 ,hop-culture is now common in most of the northern states4 ,we believe we are correct in saying that the best hop years ,america has ever known1 were #ahff to #ahfh1 when the amount produced was from #b1djj lbs4 to #b1ejj lbs4 per acre4 ,in #ahgj the total production was #be1def1ffi lbs4 ,in ,australia hops are extensively cultivated2 they are also grown in ,china and ,india4 ,in the latter place they have not been introduced many years1 but beer of a fair quality is made in some of the hill stations4 ,the following table shows approximately the acreage of hops in ,england at the present time3 ,district4 ,acreage4 ,mid ,kent #ag1aej ,weald of ,kent #ab1fja ,east ,kent #aa1hhe ,sussex #i1eja ,hereford #f1jhg ,hampshire #b1ich ,worcester #b1gfg ,surrey #b1dci ,other ,counties #bea ,from the eastern limits of the hop gardens at ,sandwich to the western boundary in ,hereford1 hard by the borders of ,wales1 there are1 then1 about #fe1fai acres of hop gardens1 or hop 8yards10 as they are called in some districts1 e4g41 ,worcester and ,hereford4 ,north ,cray1 in ,nottinghamshire1 formerly grew a good quantity of hops1 but the plantations are now considerably reduced1 and this applies also to the ,stowmarket district1 in ,suffolk1 and to ,essex4 ,the number of acres devoted to the cultivation of hops has always been subject to great #hh fluctuations2 thus in #ahjg they numbered #ch1bah2 in #ahai1 #ea1jjj2 in #ahcj1 #df1gbg2 and in #ahge1 #gj1jjj4 ,dr4 ,booker wrote that for quality of hops1 ,herefordshire stood first ,worcestershire second1 ,kent third1 and ,north ,cray fourth2 but he was probably mistaken1 for the hops of ,east ,kent have always been held to be the best in all ,england1 pre-eminent alike for strength and flavour2 those of ,farnham1 however1 run them very closely4 ,our ,english hops1 indeed1 are far superior to most of those imported1 and the foreigners are rarely used in beer without an admixture of home-grown hops4 ,immense quantities now come from abroad2 in #ahbh only #d cwt4 were imported6 ,until quite recently1 the whole of the hops in this country were poled upon much the same system as that described in ,reynolde ,scot's old pamphlet--that is1 three or four plants would be grown on a hillock1 each having a pole to climb4 ,now1 the poles are largely supplemented by wires arranged in various ways1 sometimes1 when covered with bine1 forming bell-tents of hops2 and sometimes running from pole to pole4 ,other wires leaving them at right angles are attached to pegs in the ground4 ,the aspect of the gardens is greatly changed1 but they are not less beautiful than of yore4 ,train the hop as you will1 you cannot make it unlovely4 ,the vines twist lovingly round the slender wires and tall poles1 the former bending under their weight and swaying to and fro in the breeze4 ,from pole to pole run the topmost shoots1 and the whole field is one large arbour1 roofed1 if it be autumn1 with verdant foliage and golden green fruit4 ,then1 may be1 the sunlight here and there touches the glorious clusters1 giving them still richer colours4 8,the hop for his profit ,i thus do exalt10 wrote old ,tusser1 8and for his grace and beauty10 he might have added1 but the worthy ,thomas was nothing if not practical4 ,howitt1 in his ,year ,book of the ,country thus writes of the hop country in autumn3 8,but all is not sombre and meditative in ,september4 ,the hopfield and the nutwood are often scenes of much jolly old ,english humour and enjoyment4 ,in ,kent and ,sussex the whole country is odorous with the aroma of hop1 as it is breathed from the drying kilns and huge wagons filled with towering loads of hops1 thronging the road to ,london4 ,but not only is the atmosphere perfumed with hops1 but the very atmosphere of the drawing-room and dining-room too4 ,hops are the grand flavour of conversation as well as of beer4 ,gentlemen1 ladies1 clergymen1 noblemen1 all are growers of hops1 and deeply interested in the state of the crop and the market40 #hi ,the use of wires is a serious matter for hop-pole growers if the following calculation1 made by some ingenious person1 be correct4 ,suppose that #de1jjj acres of hops are under cultivation1 and each acre annually requires #hjj new poles1 the total annual requirement will be #cf1jjj1jjj poles4 ,each acre of underwood from which poles are cut produces about #c1jjj4 ,every year1 therefore1 #ab1jjj acres of underwood must be cut to supply the demand4 ,if each acre produces on an average #b1jjj poles1 which is nearer the truth than #c1jjj1 then #ah1jjj acres must be cut annually to supply the hop-gardens with poles4 ,poets1 in their search for similes1 have not overlooked hops and hop poles4 ,in ,gay's ,a ,new ,song of ,new ,similes occur the following lines3-- ,hard is her heart as flint or stone1 ,she laughs to see me pale2 ,and merry as a grig is grown1 ,and brisk as bottled ale4 99 99 99 99 99 ,ah me6 as thick as hops or hail ,the fine men crowd about her4 ,then ,cotton1 in his verses to ,john ,bradshaw1 ,esq41 writes3-- ,mustachios looked like heroes' trophies ,behind their arms in th' ,herald's office2 ,the perpendicular beard appeared ,like hop-poles in a hopyard reared4 ,hop-growers' troubles1 furnish a theme of which1 were we hop-growers1 we fear our readers would weary1 for a volume might very well be filled with a relation of them4 ,not being hop-growers1 and having much to write about ere we inscribe the sad word 8finis10 we must content ourselves only with such an account as will give our readers a general idea of the subject4 ,to begin with1 the annual outlay per acre in the gardens is very great1 being about #cf4 ,a hop acre1 be it observed1 is not an ordinary acre1 but contains a thousand hop plants in rows1 six or seven feet apart1 and is equal to about two-thirds the statutory acre4 ,no crops are more precarious than the humulus lupulus4 ,how said ,dr4 ,booker8-- ,the spiral hop1 high mantling1 how to train ,no common care to ,britain's gen'rous sons1 ,lovers of 8nut-brown ale0--sing fav'ring ,muse6 #ij ,a glance at statistics will show the truth of our statement4 ,in #ahhb the return per acre did not average more than #a cwt4 on account of a perfect plague of aphides2 while in #ahei1 which is about the best hop year of the century1 the return was #ac cwt4 per acre4 ,the average yield during the last seventy-six years is about #f cwt4 per acre2 not a very large return for the outlay4 ,in #ahci a certain hop plantation in ,kent of about #ba acres1 produced #ae cwt4 per acre1 and in the following year only #a cwt4 per acre4 ,these extraordinary variations in the production of hop gardens are caused by insects and the weather4 ,early in the year1 when the vines appear well grown and sturdy1 the hop-grower may with a light heart1 perhaps1 prophesy a good crop4 ,in ,may a few aphides--winged females--are noticed1 and in ,august the silvery brightness of the delicate bracts is blackened and spoilt by the filth of the lice--larv of the hop aphis4 ,about ,september a mighty wind comes2 poles are blown down in all directions1 the ground is strewn with the cones blown from the vines1 and branches are bruised1 causing the cones on them to wither and decay before picking-time4 ,just as the hops are ripening two or three cold nights perhaps occur1 which throw them back and materially reduce the value of the crop4 ,then they may be attacked with mildew1 or even when all evils have in most part been avoided1 picking-time has all but arrived1 and the hop-grower is congratulating himself on his good fortune1 a shower of hail may happen1 stripping the vines and reducing the value of the crop by three-fourths4 ,miss ,ormerod1 consulting entomologist to the ,royal ,agricultural ,society1 has given much study to1 and thrown considerable light upon1 the hop aphis4 ,the course of the attack upon the hop she has discovered to be as follows3--,the aphis first comes upon the hop in the spring in the form of wingless females 7depositing young71 which ascend the bine from the ground4 ,the great attack1 however1 which usually occurs in the form of 8fly0 about the end of ,may1 comes from damson and sloe bushes as well as from the hop2 the hop aphis and the damson aphis being1 in ,miss ,ormerod's opinion1 very slight varieties of one species1 and so similar in habits that for all practical purposes of inquiry they may be considered one4 ,from experiments made on hop grounds in ,hereford1 the use of various applications round the hills in the late autumn or about the beginning of ,april1 completely prevented attacks to the vines of those hills until the summer attack came on the wing4 ,paraffin in any dry material spread on the hills1 proved serviceable both as a preventive #ia and a remedy1 and petroleum and kerosine were also used with advantage4 ,among the methods of washing1 the application of steam power opens up a possibility of carrying out these operations with rapidity and at less cost4 ,when the fly is very bad1 the common practice is1 after the picking is over1 to clear the land of bine and weeds and to place quicklime round the hills or plant centres4 ,when the hop is fully formed1 shortly before picking1 if the weather be hot and close1 almost the whole crop may be destroyed in a few days4 ,the aphides penetrate the hop and suck from the tender bracts the juice1 some of which exudes2 this1 the moist weather retarding evaporation1 produces decay at the point of puncture1 and a black spot shows1 technically called 8mould40 ,the great enemies to the lice are the ladybirds1 which devour them greedily1 and a hop-grower would as soon destroy a ladybird as a herring fisherman a seagull4 ,it has been recently suggested that the suitability or not of soil for hop-growing1 depends upon the presence or absence of sulphur1 which is an essential ingredient of hops4 ,there is more than one instance on record where hops treated with gypsum 7sulphate of lime7 were free from mould1 while in adjoining gardens the hops not so treated suffered severely4 ,the hops least liable to blight and mould contain the largest amount of sulphur4 ,a curious fact has been proved in ,germany by careful analysis4 ,in plants attacked by the hop bug the proportion of sulphur is much greater in the healthy and unattacked leaves than in those infested with the bug4 ,this subject hardly comes within the range of our work1 and we merely mention it to bring it into notice among hop-growers1 whom further experiments with gypsum may possibly benefit4 ,it is obvious that as the chief attack is made by aphis on the wing1 dressings put on the ground with a view to kill the aphides in the soil are of little avail1 for from a neighbouring or even a distant garden where the hills have been not so treated1 may come a flight of aphides causing desolation in their track4 ,if1 however1 sulphur can be imported into the live plant1 and such plants are untouched by the fly1 it would seem that we are near a solution of this very vexed problem4 ,we know of an instance where the hops on one side of a valley were totally destroyed by the fly1 while on the other side they were untouched4 ,the wind setting in one direction during the flight1 had carried the fly over the sheltered side1 and deposited them on the exposed side of the valley4 ,not to mention extraordinary tithes in this portion of our subject would be a serious omission4 ,formerly our worthy pastors were paid #ib with a tenth of the actual produce of the land1 now they receive what are in theory equivalent money payments4 ,as orchards1 market gardens1 and hop gardens were deemed to yield much greater returns than other land1 the tithe on them was fixed at a much greater rate than on pasture and arable land4 ,while the tithe on these latter is but trifling1 the tithe on the former is about thirty shillings per acre4 ,when few foreign hops were imported1 these very extraordinary tithes could be paid1 but now they are a most serious1 not to say unjust1 tax on the hop-grower who in very bad years may not make thirty or even twenty shillings per acre4 ,it is common knowledge that a great agitation is on foot to obtain their abolition1 and there appears to be a very general feeling that no land ought in the future to become subject to extraordinary tithe by reason of any crop which may be grown on it4 ,at present the extraordinary tithes are a check on production and the most advantageous cultivation of land4 ,being thus prejudicial to the welfare of the ,state1 they should have been abolished long ago1 and no doubt would have been1 but for the circumstance that the immediate sufferers are comparatively few in number4 ,the hop gardens of ,kent not only provide the brewer with the best hops1 but1 as each autumn comes round1 afford to some thirty thousand or so of the poorer classes living in the densely-populated districts of the east of ,london a few weeks of country life4 ,the ,east-,enders1 indeed1 look upon hop-picking in ,kent1 ,surrey1 and ,sussex as their particular prerogative1 and mix but little with the 8home0 pickers1 who1 however1 are almost equal to them in numbers4 8,when the plants are laden with beautiful bloom ,and the air breathes around us its rich perfume10 the grower sends word to the pickers1 most of whom have had their names down for a bin1 or a basket1 for weeks or even months previously4 ,in ,mid ,kent 8bins0 are used4 ,these consist of an oblong framework of wood supported on legs1 and to which a piece of sackcloth is fastened4 ,the bins are divided down the centres1 so that two families may pick into one bin4 ,at certain times in the day the hops in each bin are measured and the number of bushels credited to the pickers4 ,in ,east ,kent baskets are used2 these contain distinct marks for each bushel1 so that the labour of measuring is dispensed with4 ,from the baskets the hops are emptied into sacks and carried to the oast house to be dried4 ,this is a simple operation4 ,the oast house is a square brick building with a chimney of large size in the centre of the roof4 ,the hops are #ic laid on cloths stretched between beams4 ,the necessary heat is obtained from a brick fireplace which is open at the top4 ,after having been sufficiently baked1 the hops are allowed to cool1 and are then put into pockets1 i4e41 long sacks1 stamped down as tightly as possible1 and are ready for the market4 ,as in ,chaucer's time pilgrims wound their way through the garden of ,england1 so now do pilgrims1 but with different object1 tramp along the dusty highway or shady lane into that beautiful country4 ,in ,chaucer's time the monasteries provided food and shelter for the pilgrims2 but now they in most part are content with the blue sky or spreading branch of tree as a roof1 and hedge-row for a wall4 ,if the weather be but reasonably fine1 the life of these latter-day pilgrims is not a hard one1 for the balmy country air1 the soft turf and beautiful surroundings must seem to these poor creatures a kind of paradise after the dens of filth1 disease1 and darkness from which they have come4 ,not pleasant company are these pilgrims4 ,as a rule they are uncleanly1 their habits coarse1 their language foul1 and their morality doubtful4 ,many persons in ,kent prefer to lose several pounds rather than let their children go into the fields and associate with the mixed company from the ,east-,end4 ,poor people6 they are after all what their circumstances have made them2 a sweep can hardly be blamed for having a black face4 ,a few years since men1 women1 and children all slept together indiscriminately in barns and outhouses4 ,now1 as regards sleeping accommodation1 there have been changes for the better1 8,and far and near ,with accent clear ,the hop-picker's song salutes the glad ear3 ,the old and the young ,unite in the throng1 ,and echo re-echoes their jocund song1 ,the hop-picking time is a time of glee1 ,so merrily1 merrily now sing we3 ,for the bloom of the hop is the secret spell ,of the bright pale ale that we love so well2 ,so gather it quickly with tender care1 ,and off to the wagons the treasure bear40 ,the high road from ,london to the hopfields of ,kent presents a curious appearance immediately before the hop-picking season4 ,a stranger might imagine that the poorer classes of a big city were flying #id before an invading army4 ,grey-haired1 decrepit old men and women are to be seen crawling painfully along1 their stronger sons and daughters pressing on impatiently4 ,children by the dozens1 some fresh and leaping for very joy at the green fields and sunshine1 others crying from fatigue1 for the road is long and dusty4 ,nearly all these people carry sacks or baskets1 or bundles1 and some even push hand carts laden with clothing1 rags1 and odds and ends4 ,most of these folk are careless1 merry people1 and beguile the way as did ,chaucer's pilgrims1 with many a coarse jest1 but here and there will be seen some hang-dog bloated-faced ruffian tramping doggedly along1 a discontented weary woman dragging slowly a few yards in his rear1 as likely as not carrying a half-starved sickly child in her shawl4 ,such as these cause the coming of the hop-pickers to be regarded with anything but satisfaction in country districts1 and at such time householders are doubly careful to see that their windows and doors are properly barred4 ,but the majority of the pickers are well-behaved according to their lights1 and guilty at most of a little rough horseplay towards the solitary traveller or among themselves4 ,towards evening the pickers cease their tramp1 and take up their quarters for the night in woodland copse1 or under hedge-row or sheltering bank4 ,baskets1 sacks1 and hand carts are unpacked1 and here and there will be seen a whole family seated round a blazing wood fire1 over which boils the family kettle4 ,others1 less fortunate in having no family circle to join1 betake themselves to more secluded quarters to munch the lump of bread of which their supper consists4 ,about half the pickers are taken into ,kent by special trains1 a larger number1 as might be expected1 returning that way4 ,the secretaries of the ,south ,eastern and ,london and ,chatham ,railway ,companies have very kindly furnished us with a few figures on the subject4 ,in #ahhb--the bad year for hops--the ,s4,e4,r4 ,company only carried #agc pickers to the fields1 and #c1jid on the return journeys2 but in previous years the numbers varied from #f1jjj to #ag1jjj on the outgoing journey1 and #i1jjj to #ai1jjj on the return journey4 ,last year the ,l4,c4 ,d4,r4 ,company carried #a1ghe pickers to the fields1 and brought back #d1jce4 ,but if the pickers are light-hearted and merry on the way to the fields1 with empty pockets1 what are they on their return1 after work is over and wages paid8 ,everything is then the height of merriment1 and of such an uproarious kind as the people of the ,east ,end delight in4 ,young men and girls1 invigorated by their sojourn in the bracing country air1 alike garland themselves with hops1 and decorate themselves with gay ribbons4 ,laughing1 dancing1 and singing1 they hurry #ie to the station1 or along the road to ,london4 ,practical jokes are played by the score1 the railway officials are distracted1 the police look the other way4 ,as train after train full of shouting people leaves the station1 the crowd gradually becomes less thick4 ,night comes on1 and many return to their barns1 obliged to put off their return home for another day4 ,in a few days this lively throng of humanity has disappeared2 the hopfields1 robbed of their bright crops1 are again quiet2 and the more nervous of the dwellers in ,kent again breathe freely4 ,illustration #if ,illustration ,,chapter ,v4 ,,jack ,,cade--8,there shall be in ,england seven halfpenny loaves sold for a penny1 the three hooped pot shall have seven hoops1 and ,i will make it felony to drink small beer40--,hen4 ,,vi41 ,part ,,ii4 ,act iv4 ,scene #b4 ,,ancient ,,and ,,curious ,,laws ,,relating ,,to ,,the ,,manufacture ,,and ,,sale ,,of ,,ale ,,and ,,beer4 ,kings1 ,parliaments and ,local ,authorities have1 from very early times up to the present1 more or less interfered with the production and sale of alcoholic liquors4 ,as a rule1 the laws and regulations made by them had the benevolent object of preserving the public health and pocket1 but to modern notions they appear for the most part arbitrary and vexatious enactments which unduly oppressed an important industry4 ,before dealing with the many early references to laws concerning the brewing and sale of ale1 it will be interesting to notice a few of the curious regulations to be found in the ,canons of ancient religious orders enjoining sobriety on the members of their communities4 ,almost1 if not quite1 the earliest of the kind is attributed to ,st4 ,gildas the ,wise1 who lived towards the close of the sixth century1 and is to the effect that1 if any monk through drinking too freely gets thick of speech1 so that he cannot join in the psalmody1 he is to be deprived of his supper4 ,the ,canons of ,st4 ,david's contain further rules on the same matter4 ,priests about to minister in the temple of ,god1 and drinking wine or strong drink through negligence1 and not ignorance1 must do penance three days4 ,if they have been warned1 and despise1 then forty days4 ,those who get drunk from ignorance must do penance fifteen days2 if through negligence1 forty days2 if through contempt1 three #ig quarantains4 ,he who forces another to get drunk out of hospitality1 must do penance as though he had got drunk himself4 ,but he who out of hatred or wickedness1 in order to disgrace or mock at others1 forces them to get drunk1 if he has not already sufficiently done penance1 must do penance as a murderer of souls4 ,that these restrictions were not confined to clerics may be seen from the decree of ,theodore1 seventh ,archbishop of ,canterbury 7,a4,d4 #ffh-fic71 that if a ,christian layman drink to excess1 he must do a fifteen-days' penance4 ,king ,edgar seems to have gone nearer to the programme of the ,united ,kingdom ,alliance4 ,strutt says of him that under the guidance of ,dunstan he put down many alehouses1 suffering only one to exist in a village4 ,he also ordered that pegs should be fastened in the drinking horns at intervals1 that whosoever drank beyond these marks at one draught should be liable to punishment4 ,we find1 however1 that this last-mentioned device defeated its own end1 and became a provocative of drinking1 so that in #aajb1 ,anselm decreed1 8,let no priest go to drinking bouts1 nor drink to pegs 7ad pinnas740 ,the custom was called pin-drinking or pin-nicking1 and is the origin of the phrase1 8,he is in a merry pin10 and1 doubtless1 also of the expression1 8,taking him down a peg40 ,the peg-tankards1 as they were called1 contained two quarts1 and were divided into eight draughts by means of these pegs2 they passed from hand to hand1 and each must drink it down one peg1 no more1 no less1 under pain of fine4 ,in a code of ,dunstan1 for the regulation of the religious orders1 were further injunctions to the priesthood1 in which it was enjoined that no drinking be allowed in the ,church1 that men should be temperate at ,church-wakes1 that a priest should beware of drunkenness1 and should in no wise be an ale-scop 7i4e41 a reciter at an ale-house74 ,if we may believe the strange story of ,st4 ,dunstan1 as recorded by the graphic pen of the author of the ,ingoldsby ,legends1 we shall have little difficulty in accounting for the ,saint's abhorrence of strong drink4 ,the legend is a good illustration of the maxim1 8,a little knowledge is a dangerous thing40 ,lay-brother ,peter discovers that the ,saint's miraculous powers are due to his magical control over a broomstick1 and that1 on his uttering certain mystic words1 the broomstick is compelled to do his bidding4 ,lay-brother ,peter determines to apply his knowledge of the broomstick's powers to his own temporal advantage4 ,having spoken the mystic words1 #ih ,peter1 full of his fun1 ,cries1 8,broomstick6 you lubberly son of a gun6 ,bring ale6--bring a flagon--a hogshead--a tun6 ',tis the same thing to you2 ,i have nothing to do2 ,and1 'fore ,george1 ,i'll sit here1 and ,i'll drink till all's blue40 ,alas6 too literally the broomstick obeys the command2 and the poor lay-brother1 not having at command the spell that may compel the broomstick to desist1 8after floating a while like a toast in a tankard10 is at last overwhelmed1 and perishes in the brown flood he has so incautiously called up4 ,in vain did ,st4 ,dunstan exclaim1 8,vade retro ,strongbeerum6 discede a ,lay-fratre ,petro60 ,however1 the impression made upon the good ,saint's mind was indelible1 and has left its traces in the regulations made by him relating to drunkenness4 ,elfric's ,canons1 also1 are directed towards putting down the custom of drinking in churches4 ,they lay down that men ought not to drink and eat immoderately in churches1 for 8men often act so absurdly as to sit up by night1 and drink to madness in ,god's house40 ,some of the earliest laws directed against a particular custom in which ale figured as the principal beverage1 were the prohibitions to be met with in the records of the #acth century with regard to what were called scot-ales4 ,a scot-ale was a meeting for the purpose of consuming ale1 and its name was derived from the fact that the drinkers divided#dj the expenses of the entertainment amongst them4 ,these feasts were forbidden in the reign of ,king ,john by ,fitz-piers and ,peter of ,winchester1 the regents of the kingdom1 on the ground that they were made occasions for extortion4 ,the forests1 which then spread over great tracts of country1 were not subject to the common law1 but to the laws of the forest only1 and we are told that the foresters and their minions not only set up ale-houses1 but even compelled people living near to come in and join in scot-ales1 for the sake of the revenue accruing therefrom4 ,in #abef ,giles of ,bridport1 ,bishop of ,salisbury1 #ii interdicted scot-ales1 and commanded rectors1 vicars1 and other parish priests to exhort their parishioners that they violate not rashly the prohibition4 ,in certain places the term scot-ale was used to denote one of the services paid by tenants to the lord or his bailiff on the periodical tour of inspection1 and ,bracton mentions that the ,itinerant ,justices were directed to inquire whether any viscounts or bailiffs brew their own ale1 8which they call scot-ale or filct-ale10 for the purpose of extorting money from the tenants4 #dj ,cf4 ,the modern expressions scot free and paying the shot4 ,somewhat similar in practice1 though distinct in origin and in the purpose of their institution1 were the festivals called ,bede-ales4 ,these curious celebrations are described in ,prynne's ,canterburie's ,doome 7#afdf7 as public meetings1 8when an honest man decayed in his fortune is set up again by the liberal benevolence and contribution of friends at a feast2 but this is laid aside at almost every place40 ,the custom somewhat reminds one of the saying that the ,british are wont to drink themselves out of debt1 an allusion1 of course1 to the enormous revenue collected on malt and other liquors4 ,we must suppose1 however1 that the practice of bede-ale was abused2 the more generous and kindly-hearted a man might be1 the more tipsy he would have to make himself in order to help his unfortunate 8decayed0 friend in the manner prescribed4 ,accordingly we find in ancient records prohibitions of this custom4 ,one such may be cited from the records of the ,borough of ,newport1 ,isle of ,wight3 8,atte the ,lawday holden here in the #hth day of ,october1 the second yeare of the ,reigne of ,king ,edward the iiijth in the time of ,william ,bokett and ,henry ,pryer1 ,bayliffs1 ,thomas ,capford and ,william ,spring1 ,constables1 it is enacted furthermore that none hereafter1 whether ,burgesse or any other dweller or inhabitant1 within this ,towne aforesaid1 shall make or procure to bee made1 any ,ale1 commonly called ,bede-,ale1 within the liberty1 nor within this ,towne or without1 upon payne of looseing xxd4 to be payde to the ,keeper of the ,common ,box40 ,illustration3 ,the ,tumbrel4 ,about the time of ,henry ,,iii41 we begin to find mention in the records of the period1 of persistent attempts to fix the prices of bread and ale4 ,laws made with this end in view were termed collectively the ,assisa ,panis et ,cervisi 7i4e41 ,the ,assize of ,bread and ,ale74 ,in the fifty-first year of that reign1 we find it enacted that when a quarter of wheat is sold for iiis4 or iiis4 ivd41 and a quarter of barley for xxd4 or iis41 and a quarter of oats for xvid41 then brewers 7braciatores7 in cities ought1 and may well afford1 to sell two gallons of ale for a penny1 and out of cities to sell three or four gallons for the same sum4 ,by a statute #ajj passed in the same year it is enacted that if a baker or a brewster#da 7braciatrix7 be convicted1 because he or she hath not observed the ,assise of ,bread and ,ale1 the first1 second1 or third time1 he or she shall be amerced according to the offence1 if it be not over grievous2 but if the offence be grievous and often1 and will not be corrected1 then he or she shall suffer corporal punishment1 to wit1 the ,baker to the pillory1 the brewster to the tumbrel 7a cart for ignominious punishment71 or to flogging4 7,the illustration represents a woman undergoing the punishment of the tumbrel1 and is taken from the ,,ms4 ,cent ,nouvelles in the ,hunterian ,library47 ,a jury of six lawful men is to be summoned in every township1 who are to be sworn faithfully to collect all measures of the town1 to wit1 bushels1 half and quarter bushels1 gallons1 pottles and quarts1 as well from taverns as from other places4 ,the jurymen are to inquire how the assise of bread has been kept1 and adjudge accordingly2 they are then to inquire of the assise of ,ale in the ,court of the ,town1 what it is1 and whether it has been observed2 and if #aja not1 they are to inquire what brewsters have sold contrary to the assises and they shall present their names distinctly and openly1 and adjudge them to be fined or to the tumbrel4 #da ,the old word brewster is here used in its proper signification of a female brewer4 ,the ,brewster ,sessions1 as ,licensing ,sessions are called in many parts of the country1 preserve the name1 though the original feminine signification has disappeared4 ,for an account of the early brewsters and ale-wives the reader is referred to ,chapter ,,vi4 ,by another statute1 of rather uncertain date1 but passed about this period1 it is enacted that the standard of bushels1 gallons1 and ells 7standardum busselli galonis et ulne7 is to be marked with an ,iron ,seale of our ,lord the ,king1 and safe kept1 under pain of #ajj1 and no measure is to be used in any town unless it do agree with the ,king's measure1 and be marked with the seal of the shire town2 and if any do sell or buy by measures unsealed1 and not examined by the ,mayor or ,bailiffs1 he shall be grievously amerced and all the measures of every ,town1 both great and small1 shall be viewed and examined twice in the year2 and if any be convict for a double measure1 to wit1 a greater for to buy with1 and a lesser for to sell with1 he shall be imprisoned for his falsehood 7tanquam falsarius7 and shall be grievously punished4 ,the manner in which the various standard measures of capacity were arrived at is worthy of mention4 ,it is enacted that3 8,one ,english penny1 called a stirling1 round and without any clipping1 shall weigh twenty-two wheat corns in the midst of the ear1 and twenty pence shall make an ounce1 and twelve ounces a pound1 and eight pounds shall make a gallon of wine1 and eight gallons of wine shall make one bushel ,london1 and eight bushels one quarter40 ,we are glad to observe that a subsequent statute was passed which provided that both the pillory1 or stretch-neck 7collistrigium7 as it was called1 and also the tumbrel1 must be of suitable strength1 so that offenders might be punished without bodily peril4 ,the collistrigium given below is taken from an old drawing in the ,city ,records1 temp4 ,ed4 ,,iii4 ,illustration3 ,the ,pillory4 ,in the ,city of ,london the comparative severity of the punishments of the fraudulent baker and brewer seems to have been the reverse of that ordained by statute2 the baker suffered the heavier penalty1 being condemned to what was called the 8judicium claye10 or condemnation to the hurdle1 which1 as described in the ,liber ,albus1 was certainly a most unpleasant form of punishment4 ,on conviction for selling short weight the defaulting baker was to be drawn upon a hurdle from the ,guildhall to his own house1 8through the great streets where there be most people #ajb assembled1 and through the great streets that are most dirty40 ,the illustration is taken from the ,assissa ,panis 7temp4 ,edw4 ,i471 preserved among the ,city ,records4 ,the defaulting brewer or brewster1 in the reign of ,edw4 ,,iii41 for the first offence was to forfeit the ale1 for the second to forswear the mistier 7the mystery or art of brewing71 and on the third offence to forswear the ,city for ever4 ,however1 the penalties varied from time to time1 for in the reign of ,henry ,v41 when the ,liber ,albus was compiled1 the punishment of a brewster convicted of selling ale contrary to the assize was1 that for the first offence she was to be fined #ajs41 for the second #bjs41 and for the third that she should suffer the 8punishment provided for her in ,westchepe10 which would probably be the tumbrel or the pillory4 ,some confusion as to the appropriate punishment occasionally arose4 ,in #abeg1 ,sir ,hugh ,bygot1 as ,grafton's ,chronicle tells us1 8came to the ,guylde-hall1 and kept his ,court and ,plees there1 without all order of law1 and contrary to the libertyes of the citie1 and there punished the bakers for lack of size by the tombrell1 where beforetymes they were punished by the ,pillorye40 ,illustration3 ,punishment of the ,hurdle4 ,offending brewers and bakers1 in some places1 suffered on the ,cucking ,stool4 ,in the ,borrow ,lawes of ,scotland1 speaking of ,browsters 78,wemen quha brewes aill to be sauld107 it is said1 8,gif she makes gude ail1 that is sufficient4 ,bot gif she makes euel ail1 contrair to the use and consuetude of the burg1 and is convict thereof1 she sall pay ane unlaw of aucht shillinges1 or sal suffer the justice of the brugh1 that is1 she sall be put upon the ,cock- stule1 and the aill sall be distributed to the pure folke40 ,in ,april1 #agde1 an ale-wife of ,kingston-on-,thames was ducked in the river1 for scolding1 in the presence of two thousand or more people4 ,the following extracts from the old ,assembly ,books of ,great #ajc ,yarmouth give some idea of the powers possessed by corporate bodies for the regulation of trade in olden times3-- 8,friday before ,palm ,sunday1 #g ,edwd4 ,,vi4 ,agreed that no inhabitant shall buy any beer to sell again but such as was brewed in the town1 under pain of #fs4 #h;d4 a barrel4 8,feb4 #ad4 #a ,philip and ,mary1 #aeed4 ,m4 ,swansey1 of ,hickling1 being a foreigner1 bought of a merchant stranger certain hopps--the buyer to forfeit the ,hopps1 and he may buy them again of the ,chamberlain4 8,march #ai4 #a ,mary1 #aeed4 ,no inhabitant shall buy nor no ship shall receive any beer brewed out of the town1 under a penalty of #cs4 #d;d4 per gallon4 8,july #b4 #a ,philip and ,mary1 #aeed4 ,no baker or brewer to bake or brewe in the town unless appointed by the bailiffs4 8,apl4 #h4 #ae ,eliz41 #aegc4 ,that brewers be ordered to brew with coals instead of wood1 from the latter's exhorbitant price40 ,the ,articles of the ,free ,fair 7#afeh7 held at ,great ,yarmouth1 contain the following regulation3-- 8,also that no brewer selle nor doe to be solde1 a gallon of the beste ale above two pence3 a gallon of the second ale above one pennye uppon the payne and perrille above sayde40 ,the records of the old municipal corporations of ,england that have survived the destroying hand of time are very few1 but it can hardly be doubted that they contained very similar regulations to those given above4 ,in the ,domesday ,book of ,ipswich an order of the reign of ,edward ,i4 provides as to ,brewsters1 that 8after ,michelmesse moneth1 whan men may have barlych of newe greyn1 the ballyves of the forseid toun doo cryen assize of ale by all the toun1 after that the sellyng of the corn be4 ,and gif ther be founden ony that selle or brewe a geyns the assise and the crye1 be he punysshed be the forseyed ballyves and by the court for the trespas1 after the form conteyned in the ,statute of merchaundise 7#ac ,edw4 ,i41 s4 #c7 of oure lord the kyng1 and after law and usage of the same toun40 ,ricart's ,kalendar of the ,city of ,bristol contains the following record3 8,item1 hit hath be usid1 in semblable wyse1 the seid maire anon aftir ,mighelmas1 to do calle byfore theym in the seide ,counseill hous1 all the ,brewers of ,bristowe2 and yf the case require that malt be scant and dere1 then to commen there for the reformacion of the same1 and to bryng malte to a lower price1 and that such price as shall be sette by the maier upon malte1 that no brewer breke it1 upon payne of ,x,ls4 forfeitable #ajd to the ,chambre of the ,toune4 ,and the shyftyng#db daies of the woke1 specially the ,wensdaies and ,satirdaies1 the mair hath be used to walke in the morenynges to the ,brewers howses1 to oversee thym in servyng of theire ale to the pouere commens of the toune1 and that they have theire trewe mesures2 and his ,ale-konner with hym to taste and undirstand that the ale be gode1 able1 and sety keeping their sise1 or to be punyshed for the same1 aftir the constitucion of the ,toune40 #db ,the days when the ale was being moved to customers' houses4 ,sometimes a whole township was fined for the default of some of its members4 ,in #abge the township of ,dunstable was fined #djs41 because the brewers had not kept the assize4 ,some curious and amusing entries are to be found in the ,munimenta ,academica of the ,university of ,oxford1 as to the regulations for the brewing trade in the fifteenth century4 ,in the year #adcd we find it recorded that1 8,seeing how great evils arise both to the clerks and to the townsmen of the ,city of ,oxford1 owing to the negligence and dishonesty of the brewers of ale10 ,christopher ,knollys1 commissary1 assembles the brewers together in the church of the ,blessed ,mary the ,virgin1 and commands them to provide sufficient malt for brewing2 and that two or three shall twice or thrice in the week carry round their ale for public sale1 under a penalty of #djs42 and ,john ,weskew and ,nicholas ,core1 two of their number1 are appointed supervisors of the brewers4 ,each brewer is then made to swear on the ,blessed ,evangelists to brew good ale and wholesome1 and according to the assize1 8so far as his ability and human frailty permits40 ,it would appear that very considerable disorders prevailed in that ancient seat of learning at this period4 ,the ,warden of ,canterbury ,college1 for instance1 is accused of having incited his scholars to make a raid upon the ale of other scholars of the town1 which they accordingly did1 and carried off ale to the value of #ab;d4 ,the fair brewsters of the period seem to have held much the same ideas as to the relative importance of the patronage of ,town and ,gown as a fashionable ,oxford tailor of the present day may be supposed to entertain4 ,in #adci ,alice ,everarde is suspended 8ab arte pandoxandi0 7from practising brewing7 for ever1 because she refused to brew ale for sale for the common people of ,oxford4 ,in #addd the brewers were made to swear before the ,chancellor that they would brew wholesome ale1 and in such manner that the water #aje should boil until it emitted a froth1 that they would skim the froth away1 and that they would give the ale sufficient time to settle before they sold it in the ,university2 and ,richard ,benet swore that he would let his ale stand twelve hours to clear1 before he carried it to hall or college1 and that he would not mix the dregs with the ale when he carried it for sale within the ,university4 ,in #addi the stewards and manciples of the college swear that nine of the brewers have broken the assize and have brewed 8an ale of little or no strength1 to the grave and no mean damage of the ,university and ,town1 and that they are obstinate and rebels and refuse to serve the ,principals and others of the ,halls with ale40 ,in #adfd ,john ,janyn is ordered by the ,commissary to refund to ,anisia ,barbour1 without the east gate of ,oxford1 the sum of #h;d41 because he had sold her a cask of ale for #bj;d41 and 8in our opinion and that of others who have just tasted it1 it is not worth more than #ab;d40 ,the sister ,university exercised a similar jurisdiction over the brewing trade1 and it is mentioned in ,rymer's ,fdera 7,r4 #b4 #icd7 that in the year #accf1 on a petition of the ,chancellor and scholars of the ,university of ,cambridge1 the ancient privilege of the ,university1 that1 on the demand of the ,chancellor1 the ,mayor and bailiffs should make trial or assize of the bread or ale1 was restored4 ,a curious survival of the municipal jurisdiction over the vendors of ,cambridge ale is recorded in ,hone's ,every-,day ,book1 as existing at the annual fair on ,stourbridge ,common during the latter half of last century3 8,besides the eight servants called red coats1 who are employed as constables attendant upon the ,mayor of ,cambridge1 who held a court of justice during the fair1 there was another person dressed in similar clothing1 with a string over his shoulders1 from whence were suspended spigots and fossets1 and also round each arm many more were fastened4 ,he was called ,lord of the ,tap1 and his duty consisted in visiting all the booths in which ale was sold1 to determine whether it was a fit and proper beverage for the persons attending the fair40 ,in making the ale of ,old ,england1 wheat was frequently malted and used with barley malt4 ,in times of scarcity this practice was now and again forbidden as tending to unduly enhance the price of bread4 ,in #acaf1 ground malt having risen during the preceding fourteen years from #cs4 #d;d4 to #acs4 #d;d4 the quarter1 a proclamation was issued prohibiting the malting of wheat4 ,the regulation1 however1 was unpopular and difficult to enforce1 and wheat continued to be malted and mixed with the more appropriate grain4 ,receipts of more recent times frequently #ajf mention this use of wheat malt4 ,one of these of the sixteenth century is as follows3-- 8,to brewe beer4 #aj quarters of malte1 #b quarters of wheete1 #b quarters of oates1 #dj pound weight of hoppys--to make #fj barellys of sengyll beer2 the barel of aell contains #cb galones1 and the barell of beer #cf gallons40 ,the restrictive legislation was not confined to ale1 for in #accj we find it enacted3 8,because there are more taverners in the realm than were wont to be1 selling as well corrupt wines as wholesome1 and have sold the gallon at such price as they themselves would1 because there was no punishment ordained for them1 as hath been for them that sell bread and ale1 to the great hurt of the people10 therefore wine must be sold at a reasonable price4 ,no sum1 however1 appears to have been fixed1 and we can well imagine that the ideas of the innkeeper and his customer might not altogether agree on the question of what was a reasonable price4 ,not only was the price of ale fixed1 but its strength and quality were also subjected to the experienced taste of the ale-conner1 an officer appointed to test the goodness of the brew4 ,the ale-conner's appellation appears to be derived from his power of conning1 i4e41 knowing of or judging the liquor1 and reminds one of ,chaucer's line3-- 8,well coude he knowe a draught of ,london ale40 ,the ale-conners were appointed annually in the courts leet of every manor2 also in boroughs and towns corporate2 and in many places1 in compliance with charters and ancient custom1 appointments to this office are still made1 though the duties have fallen into disuse4 ,the following is the oath of this ale official1 taken from the ,liber ,albus1 compiled in the reign of ,henry ,v4 by ,john ,carpenter1 clerk1 and ,richard ,whittington1 mayor3--8,you shall swear1 that you shall know of no brewer1 or brewster1 cook1 or pie-baker1 in your ward1 who sells the gallon of best ale for more than one penny halfpenny1 or the gallon of second for more than one penny1 or otherwise than by measure sealed and full of clear ale2 or who brews less than he used to do before this cry1 by reason hereof1 or withdraws himself from following his trade the rather by reason of this cry2 or if any persons shall do contrary to any one of these points1 you shall certify the ,alderman of your ward and of their names4 ,and that you1 so soon as you shall be required to taste any ale of a brewer or brewster1 shall be ready to do the same2 and in case that it be less good than it used to be before this cry1 you1 by assent #ajg of your ,alderman1 shall set a reasonable price thereon1 according to your discretion2 and if any one shall afterwards sell the same above the said price1 unto your ,alderman you shall certify the same4 ,and that for gift1 promise1 knowledge1 hate or other cause whatsoever1 no brewer1 brewster1 huckster1 cook1 or pie-baker1 who acts against any one of the points aforesaid1 you shall conceal1 spare or tortuously aggrieve2 nor when you are required to taste ale1 shall absent yourself without reasonable cause and true2 but all things which unto your office pertains to do1 you shall well and lawfully do4 ,so ,god you help1 and the saints40 ,no doubt this oath was regularly repeated with due solemnity1 but we can imagine with what a subtle irony the official described in ,the ,cobler of ,canterburie would have repeated the part of the oath having reference to absenting himself when required to taste ale4 ,a nose he had that gan show1 ,what liquor he loved ,i trow2 ,for he had before long seven yeare1 ,beene of the towne the ale-conner4 ,absent himself--not if he knew it6 ,the ale-conners also had the power of presenting1 i4e41 accusing at the court leet1 any brewer who refused to sell ale to his neighbours though he had some for sale4 ,the officials who tested ale bore various appellations4 ,at the ,court ,leet of the ,manor of ,new ,buckenham1 in ,norfolk1 the name under which this person was known was the ale-founder4 ,in rolls of the same ,manor of earlier date he is called ,gustator ,cervisi4 ,in the records of the ,manor ,court of ,hale in the #aeth century1 in a list of persons fined1 occurs the entry1 8,thomas ,layet1 quia pandocavit semel iid41 et quia concelavit le fowndynge pot iiid420 that is1 a fine of #b;d4 was inflicted because he brewed in some manner contrary to the custom of the manor2 as by not putting out his sign when he brewed1 or by not summoning the ale-founder to taste the brew as soon as he had finished2 and a fine of #c;d4 because he concealed the 8fowndynge0 pot1 the vessel1 probably1 in which he had brewed4 ,in ,scrope's ,history of ,castle ,coombe we are told that the rules of that place in reference to the making and sale of ale were numerous and perplexing4 ,no one was permitted to brew ale so long as any church-ale lasted1 nor so long as the keeper of the park had any to sell1 nor at #ajh any time without licence of the lord or court2 nor to sell without a sign1 or1 during the fair1 without an ale-stake hung out1 nor to ask a higher price for ale than that fixed by the jury of assize1 nor to lower the quality below what the ale-tasters approved1 nor to sell at times of ,divine service1 nor after nine o'clock at night1 nor to sell at all without entering into a bond for #aj1 with a surety of #e1 to keep orderly houses4 ,the frequent changes in the price allowed show the difficulty the authorities had in settling the problem1 how to have good liquor cheap4 ,in the reign of ,elizabeth all systematic attempts to set the price of ale seem to have been discontinued4 ,at a court held in ,may in the tenth year of that queen1 the tithing-man reported that 8the ale-wyves had broken all the orders of the last laweday40 ,the court received the announcement in silence1 and made no order4 ,the ale-wives had conquered2 let us hope they used their victory with discretion4 ,the practice seems to have prevailed here as elsewhere of compelling a brewer to put out his sign or ale-stake when he had brewed1 as a signal to the local ale-conner that his services were required4 ,in #adjb we find that ,john ,lautroppe was presented to the court 8quia brasiavit iij vicibus sub uno signo10 i4e41 he had brewed three times but had only displayed the legal signal once4 ,the only penalties recorded as being imposed for drunkenness appear to be one in #afah and one in #afca2 but it would hardly be safe to argue that the inhabitants of the district were an exceptionally sober race1 for though the manor rolls of ,castle ,coombe date from #acdf1 no legislative effort to restrain excess in drinking was made till the reign of ,james ,i41 and such laws were always highly unpopular1 and were very sparingly or not at all enforced4 ,tierney1 in his ,history of ,sussex1 gives the following extract from the rolls of ,arundel3 8,john ,barbs1 ,roger ,shadyngden1 and others1 brewers1 refuse to sell a gallon of ale for one farthing according to the proclamation of the mayor1 and are consequently fined twopence each40 ,the passage in the ,taming of the ,shrew1 in which the servant1 seeking to convince ,christopher ,sly that his former life is nothing but the delusion of a crazy brain1 tells him how he would 4 4 4 rail upon the mistress of the house1 ,and say you would present her at the leet1 ,because she brought stone jugs and no sealed quarts1 shows that this jurisdiction of the manor courts was still in full force in ,shakspere's day4 #aji ,kitchen1 in his work on ,courts 7#affc71 in writing of courts leet1 says3--8,also if tapsters sell by cups and dishes1 or measures1 sealed or unsealed1 is enquirable40 ,it is noted in ,dr4 ,langbaine's collections1 under ,january #bc1 #afag1 that ,john ,shurle had a patent from ,arthur ,lake1 ,bishop of ,bath and ,wells and ,vice-,chancellor of ,oxford1 for the office of ale-taster 7to the ,university74 ,the office required 8that he go to every ale-brewer that day they brew1 according to their courses1 and taste their ale2 for which his ancient fee is one gallon of strong ale1 and two gallons of less strong worth a penny40 ,in some places the office of ale-conner still survives4 ,the appointment of four ale-conners for the ,city of ,london is said to date as far back as the first charter of ,william the ,conqueror4 ,originally they were elected by the folkesmote1 afterwards at the wardmote1 and from the time of ,henry ,v4 till the present day by the livery4 ,we have before us an extract from a daily paper of the #afth ,september1 #ahhd1 in which is recorded the appointment of an ale-taster for the ancient borough of ,christchurch4 ,the following curious application was made in the year #ahfd to the manorial court of the ,duke of ,buccleuch3--8,to the ,manorial ,court of the ,right ,hon4 ,walter ,francis1 ,duke of ,buccleuch and ,queensbury1 sitting at ,haslingden1 this #ahth day of ,october1 #ahfd4--,this is to give notice to your honourable court1 that ,i1 ,richard ,taylor1 by appointment for the last five years ,ale-taster for that part of her ,majesty's dominions called ,rossendale1 do hereby tender my resignation to hold that office after this day1 as ,i am wishful1 while young and active1 and as my talents are required in another sphere of usefulness1 to devote them to that purpose4 ,for five successive years your honourable court has done me the honour of electing me to the above office1 which ,i have held1 and performed the duties thereof efficiently1 and without disgrace4 ,having won your confidence by holding this office1 at a late sitting of your honourable court it pleased you to appoint me bellman for ,bacup1 and while ,i resign the former office1 am wishful to hold my connexion with his ,grace the ,duke ,francis ,walter1 to continue to cry aloud as bellman for ,bacup1 and1 as heretofore1 to cry for nothing for those who have nothing to pay with4 ,given under our hand and seal this #ahth day of ,october1 in the year of our ,lord #ahfd4 ,signed1 ,richard ,taylor1 ,ale-taster for ,rossendale4 ,god save the ,queen40 ,as early as the days of ,edward ,i4 attempts were made to bring about the early closing of taverns2 but the authorities seem to have moved rather in the interests of peace than of temperance4 #aaj ,in a preamble to a statute passed in that reign it is stated that 8offenders1 going about during the night1 do commonly resort and have their meetings and evil talk in taverns more than elsewhere1 lying in wait and watching their time to do mischief40 ,it is therefore enacted that taverns are to be closed at the tolling of the curfew bell4 ,and if any taverner does otherwise1 he shall be put on his surety1 the first time by the hanap 7a two-handled tankard1 sometimes of silver7 of his tavern1 or by some other good pledge therein found1 and fined #dj;d41 with various cumulative punishments for successive offences until on the fifth conviction he shall forswear such trade in the ,city for ever4 ,in the year #adee it was enacted 8that no person that in the ,county of ,kent shall commonly brew any ale or beer to sell1 shall make nor do to be made any malt in his house1 or in any other place to his own use1 at his costs and expences above an ,c quarters in the year1 under penalty of x li41 and this statute is to be in force for the space of #e years40 ,this act appears to have been passed to protect the maltsters of other places from the competition of the ,kentish men4 ,an act was passed in #adif 8against vacabonds and beggars10 which directs two justices of the peace to 8rejecte and put away comen ale-selling in townes and places where they shall think convenyent1 and to take suertie of the keepers of ale-houses of their gode behavyng1 by the discrecion of the seid justices1 and in the same to be avysed and aggreed at the time of their sessions40 ,in #aeca brewers were forbidden to take more than such prices and rates as should be thought sufficient1 at the discretion of the justices of the peace within every shire1 or by the mayor and sheriffs in a city4 ,by #e and #f ,edward ,,vi4 c4 #be1 entitled 8,an ,act for ,keepers of ,ale-houses to be bounde by ,recognizances10 it is enacted that 8forasmuch as intolerable hurts and troubles to the commonwealth do daily grow and increase through such abuses and disorders as are had and used in common ale-houses1 the ,justices of the ,peace are authorized to close such houses at their discretion40 ,and we find later1 in ,elizabeth's time1 that ,lord ,keeper ,egerton1 in his charge to the judges when going on circuit1 bade them ascertain1 for the ,queen's information1 how many ale-houses the justices of the peace had pulled down1 so that the good justices might be rewarded and the evil removed4 ,surely the advocates for total suppression of the sale of alcoholic drinks were born some two or three centuries too late6 ,a quaint jingle1 entitled 8,skelton's ,ghost10 which may be attributed to some post-,elizabethan rhymer1 contains an allusion to the legal price of ale4 #aaa ,to all tapsters and tiplers1 ,and all ale-house vitlers1 ,inne-keepers and cookes1 ,that for pot-sale lookes1 ,and will not give measure1 ,but at your owne pleasure1 ,contrary to law1 ,scant measure will draw ,in pot and in canne1 ,to cozen a man ,of his full quart a penny1 ,of you there's too many4 ,for in ,king ,harry's time1 ,when ,i made this rime ,of ,elynor ,rumming1 ,with her good ale tunning1 ,our pots were full quarted1 ,we were not thus thwarted ,with froth canne and neck pot ,and such nimble quick shot1 ,that a dowzen will score ,for twelve pints and no more4 ,the views of a cozening hostess of the period are amusingly set forth in a quaint old ballad taken from the ,roxburghe collection1 a portion of which finds place on the following page4 ,the varying prices and qualities of ale and beer1 as sanctioned by legal authority1 have been so fully treated of in another part of this work 7,chapter ,,viii47 that it is not necessary to dwell further upon the subject4 ,illustration3 ,all is ours and our ,hubands1 or the ,country ,hotelles ,vindication4 ,to the tune of ,the ,carman's ,whitle1 or ,high ,boys up go we4 99 99 99 99 99 ,for if any honet company ,of boon good fellows come1 ,and call for liquor merrily ,in any private room1 ,then ,i fill the ,jugs with ,froth1 ,or cheat them of one or two1 ,if ,i can wear them out of both ,the reckoning is my due4 99 99 99 99 99 ,roxburghe ,ballads4 ,in the year #aeca1 brewers were forbidden to make the barrels in which their ale was sold4 ,the reason for this extraordinary prohibition is thus given in the quaint words of the preamble of the act3--8,whereas the ale-brewers and beer-brewers of this realm of ,england have used1 and daily do use1 for their own singular lucre1 profit1 and gain1 to make in their own houses their barrels1 kilderkins1 and firkins1 of much less quantity than they ought to be1 to the great hurt1 prejudice1 and damage of the ,king's liege people1 and contrary to divers acts1 statutes1 ancient laws and customs heretofore made1 had1 and used1 and to the destruction of the poor craft and mystery of coopers10 therefore no beer-brewer or #aac ale-brewer is to 8occupy 4 4 4 the mystery or craft of coopers40 ,the coopers are commanded to make every barrel1 which is intended to contain beer for sale1 of the capacity of xxxvi4 gallons2 ale barrels1 however1 are to contain but xxxii4 gallons1 and so in proportion for smaller vessels4 ,the wardens of the coopers are empowered to search for illegal vessels1 and to mark every correct vessel with 8the sign and token of ,st4 ,anthony's cross40 ,this cross is possibly the origin of the ,x1 double ,x and treble ,x now in use upon casks4 ,a correspondent of ,notes and ,queries1 however1 thinks that the letter ,x on brewers' casks is probably thus derived3--,simplex--single ,x or ,x4 ,duplex--double ,x or ,,xx4 ,triplex--treble ,x or ,,xxx4 ,this was suggested by ,owen's epigram1 lib4 xii4 #cd4 ,laudatur vinum simplex1 cerevisia duplex ,est bona duplicitas1 optima simplicitas4 ,from early times laws concerning our exports and imports were considered as specially appertaining to the royal prerogative4 ,corn and malt1 ale and beer1 could only be exported by royal licence4 ,this is instanced by the order of ,edward ,,iii41 in #acff1 to the ports of ,london1 ,sandwich1 ,bristol1 ,southampton1 and eight other places3-- 8,the ,king1 to the collectors of customs in the port of ,london1 ,greeting4 8,we command you1 that all merchants and others1 who wish to export corn1 malt1 ale1 and other victuals1 be allowed1 after first taking an oath or some other sufficient security from them1 to export such things to our town of ,calais and to other of our possessions1 but not elsewhere40 ,in later times a considerable revenue was raised for the ,crown by the profits of these export licences4 ,in the reign of ,edward ,,vi4 the export of beer was regulated by an act 7#aedc7 which provides that no larger vessel than a barrel was to be used for export purposes1 under fine of #fs4 #h;d41 and that every exporter should give security for importing so much 8clapboard0 as would be an equivalent for the barrels he took out of the country4 ,queen ,elizabeth jealously guarded the prerogative in this matter1 and in her thrifty way seems to have made a pretty penny from the licences4 ,english beer had at that time become widely famed1 and could be obtained in foreign parts1 as may be learnt by a letter from ,charles ,paget to ,walsingham 7#aehb71 in which he announces that he is going to ,rouen for his health1 and intends to drink ,english beer4 #aad ,in #aegb1 ,thomas ,cantata1 a ,venetian1 sought permission to export #bjj tuns of beer1 on condition of his making known to her ,majesty certain inventions useful for the defence of the realm4 ,in the same year one ,th4 ,smith had licence to export #d1jjj tuns of beer4 ,in #aehf1 ,th4 ,cullen1 of ,maldon1 ,essex1 applies to the ,council by letter in which he asks1 as a recompense for having discovered ,mr4 ,mantell1 a traitor1 that he may have a licence as a free victualler for twenty-one years1 or a licence to transport #djj tuns of beer1 or else to have #dj in money4 ,even noblemen engaged in the export trade1 for in #afjc1 licence was granted to ,lord ,aubigny to export #f1jjj tuns of double beer4 ,the power of granting licences to inns and ale-houses in the days of ,elizabeth and her immediate successors1 was frequently given by letters patent to favourites or to persons prepared to pay for the privilege4 ,in #aeij ,wm4 ,carr received a licence for seven years1 to give leave to any persons in ,london and ,westminster to brew beer for sale4 ,the abuses that grew out of this system formed one of the grievances examined into by ,parliament in #afba4 ,a statute was passed in the fourth year of ,james ,i4 enacting that 8whereas the loathsome and odious sin of drunkenness is of late grown into common use1 being the root and foundation of many other enormous sins1 as bloodshed1 etc41 to the great dishonour of ,god and of our nation1 the overthrow of many good arts1 and manual trades1 the disabling of divers good workmen1 and the general impoverishment of many good subjects1 abusively wasting the good creatures of ,god10 a fine of five shillings is imposed for drunkenness1 together with six hours in the stocks4 ,some attempt had been previously made at legislation in this direction4 ,in ,townsend's ,historical ,collections 7#afhj7 an account is found under date ,tuesday1 ,november #crd1 #afja1 of a debate on a ,bill to restrain the ,excess and ,abuse used in ,victualling ,houses4 ,mr4 ,johnson moved1 that 8bodily punishment might be inflicted on ,alehouse keepers that should be offenders1 and that provision be made to restrain ,resort to ,alehouses40 ,in the same bill ,sir ,george ,moore spoke against drunkenness1 and desired 8some special provision should be made against it20 and1 8touching the ,authority of ,justices of the ,assize and of the ,peace1 given by this bill1 ,that they shall assign ,inns1 and ,inn ,keepers4 ,i think that inconvenient3 for an ,inn is a man's inheritance1 and they are set at great rates1 and therefore1 not to be taken away from any particular man40 ,the attempt of ,james who1 to tell the truth1 was himself not by any means free from 8the loathsome and hideous sin10 to #aae make his subjects sober by compulsion1 seems to have met with but poor success1 for in #afji another statute was passed which1 while confessing that1 8notwithstanding all former laws and provisions already made1 the inordinate and extreme vice of excessive drinking and drunkenness doth more and more abound10 enacts that a person convicted under the former act shall be deprived of his licence for the space of three years4 ,in #afbg a fine of twenty shillings and a whipping is imposed for keeping an ale-house without a licence4 ,drunkenness seems to have been prosecuted with some severity during the ,commonwealth time1 and the entries in the records of convictions for being 8drunk in my view0 would seem to point to the fact that the offenders were haled before the judgment seat ere the effects of their debauches had passed away4 ,as early as the middle of the fifteenth century some attempts were made to bring about 8,sunday closing40 ,they seem to have taken the form1 for the most part1 of bye-laws of corporations1 and to have been generally unsuccessful4 ,in #adbh the corporation of ,hull prohibited the vintners and ale-house keepers from delivering or selling ale upon the ,sunday1 under penalty of #fs4 #h;d4 for sellers and #cs4 #d;d4 for buyers4 ,in #addd an act was made by the ,common ,council of ,london 8that upon the ,sunday should no manner of thing within the franchise of the ,city be bought or sold1 neither victual nor other things40 ,the attempt was apparently unsuccessful1 as we are told that 8it held but a while10 but it was renewed from time to time in some form or other4 ,in #aeee an order was made by the ,privy ,council of ,queen ,mary1 and directed to the ,lord ,mayor and ,aldermen of the ,city of ,london1 whereby taverns1 ale or beer houses1 c41 are directed to be closed on 8,sondaye1 or other festeyvall or hollye daye duringe all the severall tymes of mattyns1 highe masse1 and evynsonge1 or of eny sermon to be songe or sayde within their severall parishe ,churches upon payne of ymprysonmente1 as well of the boddyes of every suche howseholder1 as also of the boddyes of every suche persone as shall so presume to eate or drynke40 ,a hundred years later many entries occur in parish and other records of penalties for ,sunday drinking4 99 99 99 99 99 ,the books of ,st4 ,giles' parish furnish the following extracts3-- #afda4 ,received of the ,vintner at the ,catt in ,queene ,streete1 for p'mitting of tipling on the ,lord's day #a #aj #j #aaf #afdd4 ,received of three poor men1 for drinking on the ,sabbath daie at ,tottenham ,court #j #d #j #afdf4 ,received of ,mr4 ,hooker1 for brewing on a ,fast day #j #b #f #afdh4 ,received from ,isabel ,johnson1 at the ,cole ,yard1 for drinking on the sabbath day #j #d #j #afee4 ,received of a ,mayd taken in ,mrs4 ,jackson's ,ale-house on the sabbath day #j #e #j ,received of a ,scotchman drinking at ,robert ,owen's on the ,sabbath #j #b #j #afeh4 ,received of ,joseph ,piers1 for refusing to open his doores to have his house searched on the ,lord's daie #j #aj #j ,in #afda1 an amusing pamphlet was published on the subject of ,sunday closing4 ,its title1 frontispiece1 and an extract from its contents are given on the opposite page4 ,about this period was in vogue that curious old form of punishment which was known as the drunkard's1 or ,newcastle1 cloak4 ,this garment was nothing more nor less than a beer barrel1 worn in the manner shown in the accompanying illustration4 ,possibly the inventor of sandwich men derived his idea from this source4 ,illustration ,locke1 in his second letter on ,toleration1 informs us that the intolerance of the age with regard to ,dissent was carried to such length that hardly any walk in life was free from obstacles thrown in the way of ,dissenters pursuing it4 ,amongst other things he mentions that those who had licences to sell ale were compelled to receive the ,sacrament according to the rites of the ,church of ,england4 ,we are unable to find in contemporary records any confirmation of this alleged regulation4 ,illustration3 ,the ,lamentable ,complaints of ,nick ,froth the ,tapter1 and ,rulerot the ,cooke1 concerning the retraint lately et forth1 againt drinking1 potting1 and piping on the ,sabbath day and againt elling meat4 ,cook4--8,there is uch news in the world will anger thee to heare of1 it is as bad1 as bad may be40 ,froth4--8,is there o8 ,i pray thee what is it1 tell me whatever it be40 ,cook4--8,have you not heard of the retraint lately come out againt us1 from the higher powers2 whereby we are commanded not to ell meat nor draw drink upon ,sundays1 as will anwer the contrary at our perils40 99 99 99 99 99 ,froth4--8,i much wonder1 ,mater ,rulerot1 why my trade hould be put downe1 it being o neceary in a ,commonwealth40 ,efforts were made by the brewers from time to time to bring about an alteration in the law restricting the quality of beer to two sorts1 the strong and the small4 ,the ,brewers' ,plea or a ,vindication of ,strong ,beer1 ,london1 #afdg1 thus gives the views of the brewers on the advantages to be obtained by allowing stronger beer to be brewed3--8,for of hops and malt1 our native commodities 7and therefore the more agreeable to the constitutions of our native inhabitants71 may be made such strong beer 7being well boiled and hopped1 and kept its full time7 as that #aah it may serve instead of ,sack1 if authority shall think fit1 whereby they may also know experimentally the virtue of those creatures1 at their full height2 which beer being well brewed1 of a low1 pure amber colour1 clear and sparkling1 noblemen and the gentry may be pleased to have ,english ,sack in their wine cellars1 and taverns also to sell to those who are not willing1 or cannot conveniently lay it in their own houses2 which may be a means greatly to increase and improve the tillage of ,england1 and also the profitable plantations of hop grounds 4 4 4 and produce at lesser rates 7than wines imported7 such good strong beer as shall be most cherishing to poor labouring people1 without which they cannot well subsist2 their food being for the most part of such things as afford little or bad nourishment1 nay1 sometimes dangerous2 and would infect them with many sicknesses and diseases1 were they not preserved 7as with an antidote7 with good beer1 whose virtues and effectual operations1 by help of the hop well boiled in it1 are more powerful to expel poisonous infections than is yet publicly known1 or taken notice of40 ,another ineffectual plea1 somewhat later in date1 may be here mentioned4 ,in ,the grand concern of ,england explained in several proposals to the consideration of the ,parliament1 ,london1 #afgc1 petition is made to ,parliament that legislation of a protective nature may be granted to the brewers' trade4 ,the proposal is 8,that ,brandy1 ,coffee1 ,mum1 ,tea1 and ,chocolate may be prohibited10 for these greatly hinder the consumption of ,barley1 ,malt1 and ,wheat1 the product of our land4 8,but the prohibition of ,brandy would be otherwise advantageous to the ,kingdom1 and prevent the destruction of his majesty's subjects2 many of whom have been killed by drinking thereof1 it not agreeing with their constitutions4 8,before brandy 7which is now become common and sold in every little alehouse7 came over into ,england in such quantities as it now doth1 we drank good strong beer and ale2 and all laborious people 7which are far the greatest part of the ,kingdom71 their bodies requiring1 after hard labour1 some strong drink to refresh them1 did therefore every morning and evening use to drink a pot of ale1 or a flagon of strong beer2 which greatly promoted the consumption of our own grain1 and did them no great prejudice2 it hindered not their work1 neither did it take away their senses1 nor cost them much money40 ,this petition1 like the last1 seems to have been of no effect1 for we find these 8destructive0 drinks1 brandy1 coffee1 tea1 and chocolate1 still in use in this country1 and not yet prohibited by law4 #aai ,arriving now at a period where the ancient gives way to the comparatively modern1 this chapter necessarily ends4 ,in the laws of the present day relating to ale and beer1 are curiosities by the score2 but we should hardly earn the thanks of our readers for devoting half this book to matters which are common knowledge4 ,suffice it to quote a verse from the lays of the ,brasenose ,college butler1 written1 doubtless1 at a time when it was first proposed to repeal the old beer tax1 and which tells in simple words the probable result3-- ,yet beer1 they tell us1 now will be ,much cheaper than before2 ,still1 if they take the duty off1 ,in duty we drink more4 ,illustration #abj ,illustration ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,come all that love good company1 ,and hearken to my ditty1 ',tis of a lovely ,hoastess fine1 ,that lives in ,london ,city1 ,which sells good ale1 nappy and stale1 ,and always thus sings she1 8,my ale was tunn'd when ,i was young1 ,and a little above my knee40 ,the ,merry ,hoastess4 84 4 doughty sons of ,hops and ,malt40 ,a ,vade ,mecum for ,malt ,worms4 ,,brewing ,,and ,,malting ,,in ,,early ,,times4 -- ,,the ,,ale-,,wives4 -- ,,the ,,brewers ,,of ,,old ,,london ,,and ,,the ,,brewers' ,,company4 -- ,,anecdotes4 -- ,,quaint ,,epitaphs4 ,it seemeth well that before we record the doings of departed brewers1 brewsters1 and ale-wives1 a page or so should be devoted to the two principal ingredients--malt and water--used by those ancient worthies in compounding their 8merrie-goe-downe40 ,old ,fuller thus moralizes on the art of malting3--8,though commonness causeth contempt1 excellent the ,art of first inventing thereof4 ,i confesse it facile to make ,barley ,water1 an invention which found out itself1 with little more than the joyning of the ingredients together4 ,but to make mault for ,drink1 was a masterpiece indeed4 ,how much of ,philosophy concurred to the first ,kill of ,mault1 and before it was turned on the floor1 how often was it toss'd in the brain of the first inventor thereof4 ,first1 to give it a new growth more than the earth had bestowed thereon4 ,swelling it in water to make it last the longer by breaking it1 and taste the sweeter by corrupting it4 ,secondly1 by making it to passe the fire1 the grain 7by ,art fermented7 #aba acquiring a lusciousnesse 7which by nature it had not7 whereby it doth both strengthen and sweeten the water wherein it is boyled40 ,those practically engaged in the production of our ,english national drink1 whether maltsters or brewers1 will no doubt be interested to compare the art of malting as it was carried on three hundred years ago in this country1 with the more familiar processes of to-day4 ,a description of malting in the sixteenth century is given by ,harrison4 8,our drinke10 he says1 8whose force and continuance is partlie touched alreadie1 is made of barleie1 water and hops1 sodden and mingled together1 by the industrie of our bruers1 in a certain exact proportion4 ,but before our barleie doo come unto their hands1 it susteineth great alteration1 and is converted into malt1 the making whereof ,i will here set downe in such order as my skill therein may extend unto4 4 4 ,our malt is made all the yeare long in some great townes1 but in gentlemen's and yeomen's houses1 who commenlie make sufficient for their owne expenses onelie1 the winter half is thought most meet for that commoditie1 howbeit the malt which is made when the willow doth bud1 is commonlie worst of all1 nevertheless each one indeuereth to make it of the best barleie1 which is steeped in a cesterne1 in greater or less quantitie1 by the space of three daies and three nights1 untill it be thoroughly soaked4 ,this being doone1 the water is drained from it by little and little1 till it be quite gone4 ,afterward they take it out and laieng it upon the cleane floore on a round heape1 it resteth so until it be readie to shoote at the roote end1 which maltsters call #8comming4' ,when it beginneth1 therefor1 to shoote in this maner1 they saie it is #8come1' and then foorthwith they spread it abroad1 first thick and afterward thinner and thinner upon the said floore 7as it commeth7 and there it lieth 7with turning every day foure or five times7 by the space of one and twenty daies at the least1 the workemen not suffering it in any wise to take any heat1 whereby the bud end should spire1 that bringeth foorth the blade1 and by which oversight or hurt of the stuffe it selfe the malt would be spoiled1 and turne small commoditie to the bruer4 ,when it has gone or been turned so long upon the floore1 they carie it to a kill covered with haire cloth1 where they give it gentle heats 7after they have spread it there verie thin abroad7 till it be dry1 in the meane while they turne it often that it may be uniformelie dried4 ,for the more it be dried 7yet must it be doone with soft fire7 the sweeter and better the malt is1 and the longer it will continue1 whereas if it be not dried downe 7as they call it7 but slackelie handled1 it will breed a kind of worme1 called a wivell1 which #abb groweth in the floure of the corne1 and in processe of time will so eat out it selfe1 that nothing shall remaine of the graine but even the verie rind or huske4 ,the best malt is tried by hardnesse and colour for if it looke fresh with a yellow hew and thereto will write like a peece of chalke1 after you have bitten a kirnell in sunder in the middest1 then you may assure yourselfe that it is dried downe4 ,in some places it is dried at leisure with wood alone1 or strawe alone1 in other with wood and straw together1 but of all the straw dried is the most excellent4 ,for the wood dried malt when it is brued1 beside that the drinke is higher of colour1 it dooth hurt and annoie the head of him that is not used thereto1 bicause of the smoake4 ,such also as use both indifferentlie doo barke1 cleave1 and drie their wood in an oven1 thereby to remove all moisture that should procure the fume1 and this malt is in the second place1 and with the same likewise1 that which is made with dried firze1 broome1 c43 whereas if they also be occupied greene1 they are in a maner so prejudicial to the corne as is the moist wood4 ,and thus much of our malts1 in bruing whereof some grind the same somewhat groselie1 and in seething well the liquor that shall be put unto it1 they adde to everie nine quarters of mault one of headcorne1 which consisteth of sundrie graine as wheate and otes groond 4 4 40 ,though the reasons which caused one kind of water to be more suitable than another for brewing1 were not so well understood in olden days as they are at present1 our ancestors had learned in the school of experience that the quality of the water had much to do with the quality of the ale and beer brewed from it4 ,speaking of brewing1 ,harrison says3 8,in this trade also our ,bruers observe verie diligentlie the nature of the water1 which they dailie occupy1 and soile through which it passeth1 for all waters are not of like goodnesse1 sith the fattest standing water is alwaies the best2 for although the waters that run by chalke and cledgie soiles be good1 and next unto the ,thames water which is the most excellent1 yet the water that standeth in either of these is the best for us that dwell in the countrie1 as whereon the sunne lyeth longest1 and fattest fish are bred4 ,but of all other the fennie and morish is the worst1 and the clerist spring water next unto it40 ,the silver ,thames--very different then from the turbid noisome sewer of to-day--by reason of the excellence of its water1 formed the ordinary source of supply for the old ,london ,brewers1 many of whom erected their breweries on or near its banks4 ,as early as #acde1 however1 there seems to have been a tendency on the part of certain brewers to get their water elsewhere4 ,in that year a complaint was made to the #abc authorities on behalf of the ,commonalty of the ,city of ,london1 8that whereas of old a certain conduit0 7probably the ,cheapside conduit constructed in ,henry ,,iii4's reign7 8was built in the midst of the ,city of ,london1 that so the rich and middling persons therein might there have water for preparing their food1 and the poor for their drink2 the water aforesaid was now so wasted by ,brewers and persons keeping brewhouses and making malt1 that in these modern times it will no longer suffice for the rich and middling1 nor yet for the poor40 ,in consequence of this state of things1 the brewers were forbidden to use the conduit water under penalty1 for the first offence to forfeit the tankard or vessel in which the water was carried1 on a second conviction to suffer fine1 and on the third1 imprisonment4 ,more than four hundred years ago the waters of the ,thames were at some states of the tide too turbid for use1 and accordingly in the reign of ,henry ,,vi41 the ,wardens of the ,brewers' ,company were commanded not to take water for brewing from the ,thames when it was disturbed1 but to wait till low water and the turn of the tide4 ,in ,queen ,elizabeth's reign the ,thames was beginning to acquire an evil repute1 if we may believe the author of ,pierce ,penilesse1 his supplication to the ,deuill 7#aeib71 who refers to the ,london ,brewers in terms of contempt4 8,some0 says he1 8are raised by corrupt water1 as gnats1 to which we may liken brewers1 that1 by retayling filthie ,thames water1 come in a few yeres to be worth fortie or fiftie thousand pound40 ,stow remarks of the ,london ,brewers that 8for the more part they remain near the friendly waters of the ,thames40 ,in his time many brewhouses were gathered together in the parish of ,st4 ,catharine1 near the ,tower1 and are distinguished on the map of ,london given in the ,civitates ,orbis by the name of 8,beer ,houses40 ,many years ago a canal led up from the ,thames to the ,stag ,brewery at ,pimlico1 and provided that now famous brewhouse with water4 ,all through the reign of ,elizabeth1 and for some time afterwards1 the ,thames in the neighbourhood of the ,city1 continued to afford the greater part of the water used by the ,london ,brewers4 ,until the ,new ,river water was brought to ,london1 an event which took place in the time of ,james ,i41 the ,thames would naturally furnish the chief supply4 ,the regulations in force touching the ,thames water1 had regard to the manner in which it was carried from the river to the ,breweries1 and did not in any way seek to restrict the use of the water as unfit for its purpose4 ,for instance1 in the third year of ,elizabeth's reign the ,wardens of the ,brewers were called before the ,common ,council and #abd charged not to fetch the water of the ,thames in a 8liquor-cart10#dc but to make use of 8boge0 horses 7horses carrying boges1 i4e4 water-barrels71 according to the ancient laws and ordinances4 ,the command was subsequently relaxed in favour of brewers living close to the ,river1 and drawing water from 8the ,water-gate at the ,tower ,hill or at the ,whitefriars40 ,the reason for this regulation is not stated1 but the partial removal of the restriction would seem to show that it was intended to prevent the crowding of the narrow thoroughfares of the ,city with brewers' carts passing and repassing4 ,the horse with his 8boge0 would pass another horse with ease1 while two 8liquor carts0 meeting would certainly block the way4 ,this interpretation is rather confirmed by a subsequent regulation1 made three years before the ,great ,fire cleared away many of the narrow lanes of the ,city1 that brewers' drays should not go abroad in the streets after #aa a4m4 on account of the obstruction to traffic thereby occasioned4 #dc 8,liquor0 had then1 and also at a far earlier date1 the same technical sense as it now has1 and meant water4 ,turning now from the ingredients used in brewing to the actual brewers1 it will not surprise any one who has read the chapter immediately preceding the present one1 to be informed that in early times a great part of the brewing trade was in the hands of the gentler sex4 ,alreck1 ,king of ,hordoland1 is said to have chosen ,geirhild for his queen1 in consequence of her proficiency in this necessary art1 and what was not derogatory to the dignity of a queen might of course be performed by a subject4 ,accordingly1 as has been already shown1 even as late as the seventeenth century the brewing of ale and beer for the household was looked upon as belonging to the special province of the housewife and her female servants4 ,anciently the same custom prevailed in regard to the brewing of ale for sale1 and the brewsters or ale-wives had at one time a great part of the trade1 both in the country and the city4 ,mr4 ,riley1 in his preface to the ,liber ,albus1 goes so far as to say that even down to the close of the fifteenth century1 if not later1 the ,london brewing trade was almost entirely in the hands of women1 and he states that ,fleet ,street was at that time nearly wholly tenanted by ale-wives and felt-cap makers4 ,with all respect for ,mr4 ,riley's intimate knowledge of the ancient lore connected with ,london ,town1 it must be said that this view seems to be incorrect1 for in a list of the ,london ,brewers1 made in the reign of ,henry ,v41 and still existing in the ,city ,records1 out of about three hundred names1 only fifteen are those of women4 #abe ,the ale-wives of ,fleet ,street were probably not brewers1 but hucksters or retailers4 ,the first ale-wife deserving of special mention is the ,chester 8tapstere10 whose evil doings and fate are recorded in one of the ,chester ,misteries1 or ,miracle ,plays1 of the fourteenth century4 ,the good folk of ,chester seem to have had a peculiar dislike to being subjected to the tricks of dishonest brewers and taverners4 ,even in ,saxon times it was a regulation of the ,city that one who brewed bad ale should be placed on a cucking-stool and plunged in a pool of muddy water4 ,for the ale-wife of the old play a worse fate was reserved1 and though she was a fictitious person1 many of the audience would no doubt find little difficulty in fitting some of their acquaintances with the character depicted4 ,with that mixture of the sacred and profane which to a modern ear is1 to say the least1 somewhat startling1 the ,mystery in question describes the descent of ,christ into ,hell and the final redemption of all men out of purgatory--all1 save one4 ,a criminal remains whose sins are of so deep a dye that she may not be forgiven4 ,she thus confesses her guilt3-- ,some time ,i was a tavernere1 ,a gentel gossepp1 and a tapstere ,of wine and ale1 a trusty brewer1 ,which woe hath me bewrought4 ,of cannes ,i kept no true measure1 ,my cuppes ,i solde at my pleasure1 ,deceavinge many a creature1 ,tho' my ale were nought4 ,illustration3 ,the ,sad ,fate of a ,medival ,ale-wife4 #abf ,the ale-wife is then carried off into ,hell's mouth by the attendant demons1 and the play closes4 ,the illustration is taken from a miserere seat in ,ludlow ,church4 ,the scene is a very similar one to that just described4 ,a demon is about to cast the deceitful ale-wife into ,hell's mouth4 ,she carries her gay head attire and her false measure4 ,another demon reads the roll of her offences1 and a third is playing on the pipes by way of accompaniment4 ,elynour ,rummynge1 the celebrated ale-wife of ,leatherhead in the reign of ,henry ,,viii41 has been handed down to fame by the pen of ,skelton1 the ,poet ,laureate of the day4 ,it may be1 as ,mr4 ,dalloway1 one of ,skelton's editors1 suggests1 that the poet made the acquaintance of ,elynour while in attendance upon the ,court at ,nonsuch ,palace1 which was only eight miles from her abode4 ,that the ,laureate had a very intimate knowledge of this lady1 may be gathered from his minute description of her unprepossessing person3 ,her lothely lere ,is nothynge clere ,but ugly of chere1 99 99 99 99 99 ,her face all bowsy1 ,comely crynkled ,wondrously wrinkled1 ,lyke a rost pigges eare1 ,brystled wyth here1 99 99 99 99 99 ,her nose somdele hoked1 ,and camously croked1 ,her skynne lose and slacke1 ,grained like a sacke2 ,with a croked backe4 99 99 99 99 99 ,her kyrtel ,brystow red ,with clothes upon her hed ,that wey a sowe of led4 #abg ,illustration3 ,eleanor ,rummyng1 ,alewife4 ,when ,skelton wore the ,laurell ,crowne1 ,my ,ale put all the ,ale-wiues downe4 #abh ,thus1 and with many more unpleasing qualities1 does the poet garnish the subject of his verse1 going on to describe how-- ,she breweth noppy ale ,and maketh thereof fast sale1 ,to trauellers1 to tynkers1 ,to sweters1 to swinkers ,and all good ale drynkers4 ,so fond are many of her customers of her ale1 that they will come to it1 even though they cannot pay in coin of the realm4 ,instede of coyne and monney1 ,some brynge her a conny1 ,and some a pot of honny1 ,some a salt1 and some a spone1 ,some theyr hose1 and some theyr shone4 ,the writers of the ,elizabethan age make frequent reference to the ale-wives4 8,ask ,marian ,hacket1 the ale-wife of ,wincot10 says ,christopher ,sly1 8if she know me not2 if she say ,i am not fourteen pence on the score for sheer ale1 score me up for the lyingest knave in ,christendom40 ,one would think that the ale-wife mentioned in ,the ,knight of the ,burning ,pestle would have a large1 if not a very lucrative1 trade3-- ,for ,jillian of ,berry she dwells on a hill1 ,and she hath good beer and ale to sell1 ,and of good fellows she thinks no ill1 ,and thither shall we go now1 now1 now1 ,and thither shall we go now4 ,and when you have made a little stay1 ,you need not ask what is to pay1 ,but kiss your hostess and go your way1 ,and thither will we go now1 now1 now1 ,and thither will we go now4 ,all ale-wives1 however1 had not so good a repute as ,jillian of ,berry4 ,harrison1 whose knowledge of ale was indisputable1 speaking of the fraudulent ale-wives of his time1 says3 8,such sleights have they for the utterance of this drink 7ale7 that they will mire it with resin and salt1 but if you heat a knife red-hot1 and quench it in the ale1 so near the #abi bottom of the pot as you can put it1 you shall see the rosen come forth hanging on the knife4 ,as for the force of salt1 it is well known by the effect2 for the more the drinker tipleth1 the more he may1 and so dooth he carry oft a drie drunken noll to bed with him1 except his luck be the better40 ,the lady1 whose tall hat and large white frill appear upon the next page1 went by the unpleasant name of ,mother ,louse4 ,she is mentioned by ,anthony ,wood1 in #afgc1 as an ale-wife of ,hedington ,hill1 and was supposed to be the last woman who wore a ruff in ,england4 ,the verses under the engraving indicate that the dun hat and ruff had gone out of vogue1 and were objects of merriment4 ,from the ,accounts of the ,lord ,treasurer of ,scotland 7fifteenth century7 it may be gathered that the customs and regulations respecting the brewing and sale of ale were much the same in ,scotland as in this country4 ,the price of ale was fixed from time to time 8efter the imposicioune of the worthi men of the toune10 who regulated it according to the price of malt4 8,browster wives0 brewed the greater part of the ale1 and kept most of the ale-houses4 ,their ale was frequently made from a barley and oat malt1 as was the practice in ,england at the same date4 ,as in this country1 the lack of piquant flavour1 afterwards supplied by the hop1 was in those days compensated by the addition of ginger1 pepper1 spices1 and aromatic herbs4 ,though the use of hops spread but slowly into ,scotland1 a considerable import trade in beer 7hopped ale7 was carried on with ,germany4 ,in #adee the accounts already quoted show a payment for ,german beer supplied to the garrison at ,dunbar4 ,some curious entries also appear for the years #adig-h3 8,item1 to ,andrew ,bertoune1 for ten pipe of cider and beir1 the price of all ,,ix li2 item1 for aill that the ,kinges horse drank1 viiijd42 item1 for the ,king's ships1 xij barrellis of ail2 for ilk barrell xiiijs4 iiijd40 ,illustration3 ,mother ,loue of ,loue ,hall1 near ,oxford4 ,an ,alewife at ,hedington ,hill 7#afgh7 mentioned by ,anthony ,wood4 ,probably the lat woman in ,england who wore a ruff4 ,,an ,,alewife4 ,you laugh now ,goodman two hoes1 but at what8 ,my ,grove1 my ,manion ,houe1 or my dun ,hat2 ,is it for that my loving ,chin and ,snout ,are met1 becaue my ,teeth are fallen out2 ,is it at me1 or at my ,ruff you titter2 ,your ,grandmother1 you ,rouge1 nere wore a fitter4 ,is it at ,forehead's ,wrinkle1 or ,cheeks' ,furrow1 ,or at my ,mouth1 o like a ,coney ,borrough1 ,or at thoe ,orient ,eyes that nere hed tear ,but when the ,exciemen come1 that's twice a year4 ,kis me and tell me true1 and when they fail1 ,thou halt have larger potts and tronger ,ale4 ,the following extracts from old ,scotch laws show the similarity of the old ,english and ,scotch usages3--8,all women quha brewes aill to be sould1 sall brew conforme to the use and consuetude of the burgh all the yeare4 ,and ilk ,browster sall put forth ane signe of her aill1 without her house1 be the window or be the dure1 that it may be sene as common to all men2 quhilk gif she does not1 she sall pay ane unlaw 7fine7 of foure pennies40 8,it is statute that na woman sel the gallon of aill fra ,pasch until ,michaelmes1 dearer nor twa pennies2 and fra ,michaelmas untill ,pasch1 dearer nor ane pennie40 ,a verse or two of the 8,ale-wife's ,supplication2 or1 the ,humble ,address of the ,scotch ,brewers to his ,majesty ,king ,george ,,iii41 for taking away the ,license and charging some less #aca duty on ,malt and ,ale10 must close this reference to the old ,scotch brewing trade3-- ,here's to thee1 neighbour1 ere we part1 ,but your ,ale is not worth the mou'ing ,you must make it more stout and smart1 ,or else give over your brewing4 ,it's nineteen ,times 'courg'd thro' the ,draff1 ,so whipt by ,willy ,water1 ,that ,barm and ,hop bears a' the ,scoup2 ,i swear ,i've made far better4 ,cries ,maggy1 then1 you speak as you ken1 ,consider our ,taxations2 ,and brew it stout1 you'll soon run out1 ,of both your ,purse and ,patience3 ,for these gauging ,men1 with nimble ,pen1 ,can count each ,pile of ,barley2 ,and he that cheats them of a ,gill1 ,will get up very early4 ,returning now to ,london1 it is proposed to give some account of the brewing trade in olden times1 and of the ,brewers' ,company4 ,the first differences that strike one in contrasting the ancient and modern breweries are that the former were on a very small scale compared with the huge establishments of to-day1 and that originally nearly every brewer was also a retailer4 ,in ,chaucer's time a brewhouse was often synonymous with an ale-house3-- 8,in al the toun nas brewhouse ne taverne ,that he ne visited with his solas40 ,we have no knowledge of any representations of brewhouses at this early period4 ,the interesting picture of a sixteenth-century brewery is taken from a rare work by ,hartman ,schopper1 entitled1 81 omnium illiberalium1 mechanicarum1 aut sedentariarun artium genera continens1 carminibus expressa1 cum venustissimis imaginibus omnium artificum negociationes ad vivum representantibus10 published at ,frankfort-on-,main1 #aefh4 ,the illustration would no doubt stand as well for a brewhouse of a much earlier period1 judging from the written descriptions which we possess4 ,the engraver of ,der ,bierbreuwer was ,jost ,ammon1 and the engraving is considered one of the best examples #acc of the art at this very early period4 ,a plate taken from the same work1 representing a cooperage1 will be found on page #ccd4 ,illustration3 ,der ,bierbreuwer4 ,au ,gerten ied ich gutes ,bier1 ,feit und 1 auch bitter monier1 ,in ein ,breuwfeel weit und gro ,darein ich denn den ,hopen to1 ,la den ich denn in ,brennten fhlen da ,damit ll ich darnach die ,fa1 ,wohl gebunden und wohl gebicht1 ,denn giert er und it zugericht4 ,beschreibung aller ,stnde 7#aefh74 ,the old ,german lines under the engraving of the ,beer-brewer may be thus rendered into ,english3 ,from barley ,i boil good beer1 rich and sweet and bitter fashion4 ,in a wide and big copper ,i then cast the hops4 ,then after boiling the wort ,i leave it to cool1 and therewith ,i straightway fill the well-hooped and well-pitched fermenting vat2 then it the wort ferments1 and the beer is ready4 ,there is no doubt that the brewers' trade was originally held in little esteem1 and was considered as mean and sordid 7de vile juggement74 ,the ignominious punishments and restrictions 7some of which have been already mentioned7 to which the old ,london brewers were subjected1 prove that their status only slowly improved4 ,in the time of ,henry ,,viii41 however1 their position had so far advanced in repute that in the grant of arms then made to them1 they are specified as 8the ,worshipful ,occupation of the ,brewars of the ,city40 ,the ,records of the ,city of ,london are particularly full of details concerning the brewers and the brewing trade1 and it will probably give the best idea of the conditions under which the business was carried on in former days to mention a few of the principal regulations gathered from that valuable body of information1 and to supplement them by extracts from the records of the ,brewers' ,company4 ,truth to say1 the brewers and the ,city authorities were never the best of friends1 and long accounts are to be found from time to time of disputes between them as to the legal price and quality of the liquor with which the lieges were to be supplied--struggles in which the action of the authorities seems1 according to our modern notions1 to have been arbitrary in the extreme4 ,an instance of this tyranny over a trade is given in the ,liber ,aldus1 from which it appears that not only was a brewer compelled to brew ale of a specified price and quality1 but he was not even allowed to leave off brewing in case he found it did not pay him to continue4 ,the regulation runs thus3 8,if any shall refuse to brew1 or shall brew a less quantity than he or she used to brew1 in consequence of this ordinance1 he or she shall be held to be a withdrawer of victual from this city and shall be punished by imprisonment1 and shall forswear his trade as a brewer within the liberties of the ,city for ever40 ,the same idea1 formerly so prevalent1 that persons ought to be compelled by the strong hand to pursue their avocations1 and the arbitrary manner in which the authorities acted in obtaining a supply of victuals1 may be illustrated from the ,annals of ,dunstaple 7#abid71 in which it is #acd recorded that the ,king's long stay at ,st4 ,albans and ,langley 8enormously injured the market of ,dunstaple and all the country round4 4 4 ,the servants of the ,king seized all victual coming to the market1 even cheese and eggs2 they went into the houses of the citizens and carried away even what was not for sale1 and scarce left a tally with any one4 ,they took bread and ale from the ale-wives1 and if they had none they made them make bread and ale40 ,in #abig the ,sheriffs of ,notts and ,derby are ordered by ,edward ,i4 7,rymer ,r4 #a4 #hhc7 to proclaim in every town that the bakers and brewers should bake and brew a sufficient store of bread and ale for certain ,welshmen1 who were marching to chastise the ,scots1 8because the ,king is unwilling that1 by reason of such victuals failing1 the men of those parts should suffer damage at the hands of the sd ,welshmen40 ,the persons employed in the malt liquor trade1 whether as manufacturers or retailers1 are specified in an ordinance of the reign of ,henry ,,iv4 to be ,brewers1 ,brewsters1 ,hostillers 7i4e41 ,innkeepers71 ,kewes 7i4e41 ,cooks71 ,pyebakers1 and ,hucksters4 ,the hucksters were undoubtedly at one time accustomed to sell their ale in the streets of ,london4 ,in #acbj they were prohibited by the ,lord ,mayor and ,aldermen from selling ale on ,london ,bridge4 ,in the sixth year of ,richard ,,ii4 ,juliana atte ,vane1 huckster1 was charged with selling her ale in 8hukkesterie20 she is asked from whom she bought the ale1 and replies that she bought the said ale1 viz41 one barrel of #cj gallons1 from ,benedicta 7brewster71 who lived at 8,crepulgate40 ,it was accordingly adjudged that ,juliana had broken the ,city regulations1 and the ale was forfeited4 ,the brewers were forbidden at this time to sell to hucksters under pain of forfeiture and imprisonment at the will of the ,mayor1 the intention apparently being that only a brewer should be a vendor of ale4 ,by the reign of ,henry ,,iv4 the brewers1 although they had as yet no royal charter1 had joined themselves together for purposes of mutual protection and social intercourse4 ,they are mentioned in an ordinance of the seventh year of that reign as the ,mystery 7i4e41 trade or craft7 of ,free ,brewers within the ,city1 and a constitution is ordained for them by the ,city ,fathers4 ,the freemen of the ,mystery are yearly to elect eight persons1 four of the part of the ,city east of ,walbrook1 viz41 two masters and two wardens1 and four like persons of the part west of ,walbrook4 ,these eight are to make regulations for those using the mystery of brewing1 as to the hiring of servants1 the sale of ale1 and such like matters1 as they should be charged by the ,mayor and ,aldermen2 they are also to see 8that the good men of the mystery may #ace have a proper place to go to to transact their own business10 and are called together upon the proper occasions 8by summons of their beadle in such a manner as other mysteries are20 they are to supervise those who make and supply ale1 and to see that 8good1 able and seyn 7sound7 ale0 is brewed according to the legal price1 and to report offenders to the ,chamberlain of the ,city4 ,considerable difficulty was at this time experienced in compelling the sellers of ale to keep to the lawful measures of barrel1 kilderkin1 and lesser vessels4 ,on a complaint being made to the ,common ,council in the ninth year of ,henry ,,iv41 that whereas 8each barrel ought to contain thirty gallons of just measure1 but each is deficient by two gallons or more 4 4 4 if the dregs are reckoned as clear ale1 and that the brewers will make no rebate in the price on that account to the great deceit and damage of the ,lords1 ,gentles and ,citizens10 therefore the deputies of the ,chamberlain are ordered to mark every barrel as containing #bg gallons1 and the half barrel as containing #ad gallons by reason of the aforesaid dregs4 ,five years later further evil doings are recorded4 ,the ,brewers and brewsters1 8to the displeasure of ,god and contrary to the profit of the ,city1 sell their ale three quarts for a gallon1 one quart and a half for a potell 7i4e41 a two-quart measure72 and one hanap 7i4e4 a two-handled tankard71 for a half quart of which six or seven hanaps scarcely make a gallon10 and they are therefore ordered for the future to sell only by sealed measure and not by hanap1 tankard1 or any such vessel4 ,in the reign of ,henry ,v4 the famous ,lord ,mayor1 ,richard ,whitington1 and the ,brewers seem to have been perpetually at daggers drawn4 ,the records of the ,brewers' ,company contain a quaint account of an information laid against them for selling dear ale2 the complainant in the case being ,sir ,richard1 whose mayoralty had then expired4 ,the substance of it1 translated from the original ,norman ,french1 is as follows3-- 8,on ,thursday1 ,july #cjth1 #adbb1 ,robert ,chichele1 the ,mayor1 sent for the masters and twelve of the most worthy of our company to appear at the ,guildhall2 to whom ,john ,fray1 the recorder1 objected a breach of government1 for which #bj should be forfeited1 for selling dear ale4 ,after much dispute about the price and quality of malt1 wherein ,whityngton1 the late mayor1 declared that the brewers had ridden into the country and forestalled the malt1 to raise its price1 they were convicted in the penalty of #bj2 which objecting to1 the masters were ordered to be kept in prison in the ,chamberlain's company1 until they #acf should pay it1 or find security for payment thereof40 ,whereupon1 the ,mayor and ,court of ,aldermen1 having 8gone homeward to their meat10 the masters1 who remained in durance vile1 8asked the ,chamberlain and clerk what they should do2 who bade them go home1 and promised that no harm should come to them2 for all this proceeding had been done but to please ,richard ,whityngton1 for he was the cause of all the aforesaid judgment40 ,the record proceeds to state that 8the offence taken by ,richard ,whityngton against them was for their having fat swans at their feast on the morrow of ,st4 ,martin40 ,whether this unctuous dish had offended the famous ,mayor's mind by way of his digestion1 does not appear4 ,illustration3 ,whityngton4 ,the same ,robert ,chichele is recorded to have issued the following curious regulation in #adbc3--8,that retailers of ale should sell the same in their houses in pots of 8peutre10 sealed and open2 and that whoever carried ale to the buyer should hold the pot in one hand and a cup in the other2 and that all who had cups unsealed should be fined40 ,many other complaints of the 8oppressive0 acts of ,whitington towards the ,company are also recorded4 #acg ,the ,company1 as appears from these records1 had the power of fining its members for breach of discipline4 ,in #adba one ,william ,payne1 at the sign of the ,swan1 by ,st4 ,anthony's ,hospital1 ,threadneedle ,street1 was fined #cs4 #d;d41 to be expended in a swan for the masters' breakfast1 for having refused to supply a barrel of ale to the ,king when he was in ,france4 ,simon ,potkin1 of the ,key1 ,aldgate1 was fined for selling short measure1 whereupon he alleged that he had given money to the masters of the ,brewers' ,company1 that he might sell ale at his will4 ,this excuse embroiled him with the ,company1 who were not to be appeased until he had paid #cs4 #d;d4 for a swan to be eaten by the masters1 but of which1 it is added1 8he was allowed his own share40 ,in #adbj ,thomas ,greene1 master1 and the wardens of the ,company agreed that they should meet at 8,brewershalle0 every ,monday for the transaction of their business4 ,it would appear that the first ,hall had then been recently erected1 for1 as we have seen1 the ,brewers had in the preceding reign no fixed place to which 8the good men of the mystery0 might resort4 ,many curious accounts are to be found of election feasts4 ,the presence of females was allowed4 ,the brothers of the ,company paid #ab;d41 and the sisters #h;d41 and a brother and his wife #bj;d4 ,a menu of one of these feasts1 given in the ninth year of ,henry ,v41 is subjoined4 ,it shows the nature of these entertainments at that period4 ,,la ,,ordinance ,,de ,,nostre ,,feste ,,en ,,ceste ,,an4 ,la premier ,cours ,the ,first ,course ,brawne one le mustarde ,brawn with mustard ,caboch le potage ,cabbage soup ,swan standard ,swan standard ,capons rostez ,roast capons ,graundez ,costades4 ,great costard apples4 ,la seconde ,cours ,the ,second ,course ,venyson en broth one ,venison in broth ,blanche mortrewes#dd ,mortreux soup #ach ,cony standard ,rabbit standard ,pertriches on cokkez rostez ,partridges with roasted cocks ,leche ,lombard#de ,leche ,lombard ,dowsettes one pettiz parneux4 ,sweetmeats and pastry4 ,la troisme ,cours ,the ,third ,course ,poires en serope ,pears in syrup ,graundezbriddes one ,great birds and ,petitz ensemblez ,little ones together ,fretours ,fritters ,payne puff one ,bread puff ,un cold bakemete4 ,a cold baked meat4 #dd ,mortreux was a kind of white soup4 ,chaucer says of the ,cook that3-- 8,he coude roste1 and sethe1 and broille1 and frie1 ,maken mortreux1 and wel bake a pye40 #de ,an old receipt for leche lombard describes it as made of pork pounded with eggs2 sugar1 salt1 raisins1 currants1 dates1 pepper1 and cloves were added2 the mixture was put in a bladder and boiled2 raisins1 wine and more spices were added1 and the whole was served in a wine gravy4 ,it will be gathered from a study of this bill of fare that1 though the ,brewers frequently alluded to themselves in petitions as 8the poor men of the ,mystery of ,brewers10 8your poor neighbours the ,berebruers10 and such like1 they nevertheless fared rather sumptuously than otherwise4 ,here is their drink bill for a similar entertainment3-- ,,boterye4 item for xxii galons of red wine xiiijs4 viijd4 item for iij kilderkyns of good ale at ijs4 iiijd4 viis4 item for ij kilderkyn of iij halfpeny ,ale at xxij iijs4 viijd4 item for j kilderkyn of peny ale xijd4 ,in #adbb ,parliament ordered that all the weirs or 8kydells0 in the ,thames from ,staines to ,gravesend should be destroyed1 and the ,lord ,mayor and ,aldermen ordained that two men from each of the ,city ,companies should assist in the work4 ,thomas ,grene and ,robert ,swannefeld were accordingly chosen on behalf of the ,brewers to go to ,kingston4 ,the expenses were defrayed by a general contribution by the members of the ,company4 8,these be the names10 says the old #aci writer1 8of ,brewers of ,london1 the wheche dede paien diverse somes of monye for to helpe to destruye the weres yn ,tempse for the comynalte of the ,cite of ,london shulde have the more plente of fissh40 ,the names of some two hundred and fifty subscribers are subjoined to the record4 ,in #adbd the ,brewers had a ,lord ,mayor to their mind in ,john ,michelle1 who was 8a good man1 and meek and soft to speak with40 ,when he was sworn-in1 the ,brewers gave him an ox1 that cost #bas4 #b;d41 and a boar valued at #cjs4 #a;d42 8so that he did no harm to the ,brewers1 and advised them to make good ale1 that he might not have any complaint against them40 ,returning to the ordinances of the ,city1 we find that about this time 7#g ,hen4 ,v47 there were some three hundred brewers in the ,city and liberties4 ,in that year another precaution was taken to ensure a proper measure of cask4 ,the coopers were ordered by ,whitington to mark with an iron brand all casks made by them4 ,each cooper was to have his own brand1 and the marks were to be entered of record4 ,this regulation was carried into effect1 and the mark chosen by each cooper appears on the ,city ,records with his name annexed1 as thus3-- ,illustration ,in the sixteenth year of the reign of ,henry ,,vi4 the first charter was granted to the ,brewers' ,company4 ,it empowered the freemen of the ,mystery of ,brewers of the ,city of ,london thenceforward to be a corporate body1 with a common seal and powers of taking and holding land4 ,the ,company was yearly to elect four of their number as wardens1 who were to have power to regulate the members of the ,mystery and their brewing operations1 and also to govern and rule all men employed in1 and all processes connected with1 the brewing of any kind of liquor from malt within the ,city and suburbs for ever4 ,this last provision was probably intended to extend the power of the ,company to the ,fellowship of the ,beer-brewers1 then beginning to come into existence4 ,some years afterwards a coat-of-arms was granted to the ,company by ,william ,hawkeslowe1 ,clarencieux ,king of ,arms of the ,south ,marches of ,ingelond4 ,it is thus described in the grant3 #adj 8,they beren asure thre barly sheues gold1 bound of the same1 a cheveron1 gowles1 in the cheveron thre barels1 ,sylvir1 garnyshed with sable40 ,illustration3 ,the ,ancient ,arms4 ,the ,brewers had taken for their patron saints ,st4 ,mary and ,st4 ,thomas the ,martyr1 and bore the arms of ,thomas ,becket impaled with their own1 until ,henry ,,viii41 discovering that ,st4 ,thomas was no saint after all1 desecrated his tomb1 scattered his dust to the four winds of heaven1 and compelled the ,brewers to adopt another escutcheon4 ,the new coat1 discarding the obnoxious saint's insignia1 was a good deal like the old one1 and is borne by the ,company to this day4 ,it is described in the grant as follows3 8,geules on a ,cheueron engrailed silver three kilderkyns sable hoped golde between syx barly sheues in saultre of the same1 upon the ,helme on a torse siluer and asur a demy ,morien in her proper couler1 vestid asur1 fretid siluer1 the here golde1 holding in either hande thre barley eres of the same manteled sable1 dobled siluer40 ,illustration3 ,the ,arms of the ,brewers' ,company4 ,with regard to the old ,hall of the ,brewers' ,company1 it occupied the site of the present ,hall1 and is described by ,stowe as a 8faire house20 it was destroyed in the ,great ,fire4 ,of the present edifice1 which sprang ,phnix-like from the ashes of the yet smoking ,city--it bears date #afff--suffice it to say that it is a fine building1 characteristic of the architectural style of the period1 and that for lovers of old oak carvings its interior is worthy a visit4 ,this notice of the ,brewers' ,company1 its foundation1 its feasts1 and #ada its troubles has taken us rather in advance of our tale1 and we must hark back to the middle of the fifteenth century4 ,to judge from an entry in the ,city ,records of the sixteenth year of ,edward ,,iv4 the ,brewers were sometimes openly resisted by force of arms4 ,the actual occasion on which this was done is not specified1 but it is recorded that ,richard ,geddeney was committed to prison for having said that the ,brewers had made new ordinances1 and that it would be well to oppose them1 as had formerly been done1 with swords and daggers1 when they were assembled in their ,hall4 ,six years afterwards a petition was presented to the ,lord ,mayor and ,aldermen by the ,brewers1 which is so good a specimen of the usual style of their supplications that some portions of it are given4 ,it begins by 8petieously compleynyng that where in tyme passed thei have honestly lyved by the meanes of bruyng1 and utteryng of their chaffer as well within the fraunchises of the saide ,citee as withoute4 ,and hath ben able to bere charges of the same citee after their havours and powers as other freemen of the saide citee4 ,where now it is so that for lak of ,reules and other directions in the saide ,crafte they ben disordered and none obedience nor goode ,rule and ,guydyng is hadd within the saide ,crafte to the distruction thereof40 ,it is therefore prayed--8,that eny persone occupying the ,craft or feat of bruying within the franchise or the saide citee make or do to be made good and hable ale and holesome for mannys body4 4 4 and that no manner ale after it be clensed and set on yeyst be put to sale or borne oute to eny custumers hous till that it have fully spourged 7worked740 ,that no brewer shall occupy a house or a 8seler0 apart from his own dwelling-house for the sale of his ale4 ,that no brewer shall 8entice or labour to taak awey eny custumer from a brother brewer10 or 8serve or do to be served any typler 7i4e41 retailer of ale7 or huxster as to hym anewe be comen custumer of any manner ale for to be retailed till he have verrey knowlage that the saide typler or huxster be clerely oute of dett and daunger for ale to any other person0 4 4 4 4 4 ,that every person keeping a house and being a brother of ,bruers do pay to the ,wardens of the ,company a sum of #ds4 yearly4 8,that no manner persone of the said crafte 4 4 4 presume to goo to the feeste of the ,maior or the ,sherriff unless he be invited 4 4 that members of the crafte shall appear in livery when so commanded that is to sey gowne and hode 4 4 4 ,that the livery of the crafte be changed and renewed every third year agenst the day of the ,election of the newe ,wardeyns of the crafte 4 4 40 ,that once a quarter the ordinances of the ,company shall be read to the assembled brewers in #adb their common hall4 ,that no brewer is to buy malt except in the market4 ,that malt brought to market must not be 8capped in the sakke1 nor raw-dried malte1 dank or wete malte or made of mowe brent barly1 belyed malt1 ,edgrove malte1 acre-spired malte1 wyvell eten malte or meddled#df1 in the deceite of the goode people of the saide citee1 upon payn of forfaiture of the same40 ,no one is to buy his own malt or corn in the market1 8to high the price of corn in the ,market10 under pain of the pillory4 ,no one is to sell malt 8at the ,market of ,gracechurch or ,greyfreres before #i of the clock till market bell therfor ordeigned be rongen10 and at one o'clock all the unsold malt is to be cleared away4 #df 8,capped in the sakke0 probably with some good malt put on the top and defective malt beneath4 ,mowe brent barley barley that has heated in the stack4 ,belyed swollen4 ,acre-spired with the shoot of the plant projecting from the husk4 ,wyvell-eten weevil-eaten4 ,meddled mixed4 ,all these rules and ordinances the ,lord ,mayor and ,aldermen were graciously pleased to sanction and confirm4 ,the records contain many entries showing the difficulties the authorities had to contend with in keeping the brewers to the legal price and qualities of ale1 a subject already touched on in ,chapter ,v4 ,the prices being fixed by law1 and no allowance being made for the natural fluctuations of the market1 it is not to be supposed that the brewers would give their customers any better ale than they were absolutely compelled by law to give4 ,as old ,taylor quaintly says3-- ,i find the ,brewer honest in his ,beere1 ,he sels it for small ,beere1 and he should cheate1 ,instead of small to cosen folks with ,greate1 ,but one shall seldome find them with that fault1 ,except it should invisibly raine ,mault4 ,disputes arising between the officers of the ,brewers' ,company and any members of the guild1 were sometimes referred for settlement to the ,lord ,mayor and ,aldermen4 ,in #aebj there was 8variance and debate in the ,court of ,aldermen between the ,master and ,wardens of the ale-brewers and ,thomas ,adyson1 ale-brewer1 concerning the making of a growte0 by the latter4 ,the parties having submitted their case to the ,court1 it was adjudged that ,adyson should go to the ,brewers' ,hall1 #adc and there1 before the ,master and ,wardens1 8with due reverence as to them apperteynyng1 standing before them his hed uncovered1 shall say these words3 #8,maysters1 ,i pray you to be good masters to me1 and fromhensforth ,i promytte you that ,i shall be good and obedient to you 4 4 and obey the laws and customs of the house4'0 ,foreign brewers 7i4e41 brewers not members of the ,company7 were only allowed to sell ale within the ,city on paying #djs4 annually to the use of the ,city1 and in default of payment the ,chamberlain 8shall distreyne their carts from tyme to tyme40 ,there was also a duty called ale-silver1 which had been paid from time immemorial to the ,lord ,mayor by the sellers of ale within the ,city4 ,complaints of short measure were still common1 and as it is shown that the barrels were delivered to customers without being properly filled1 so that 8thynhabitants of the ,city paye for more ale and bere than they doo receive1 which is agenst alle good reason and conscience10 therefore the brewers were ordered to take round 8filling ale0 to fill up their customers' casks4 ,in the eighteenth year of ,henry ,,viii4 a striking instance of the insubordination of the ,brewers is recorded4 ,the four ,wardens of the ,company were ordered to produce their books of fines1 8the whiche to doo they utterly denyed40 ,therefore the four ,wardens and their ,clerk1 ,lawrence ,anworth1 8were comytted to the prisn of ,newgate ther to remayne40 ,this seems to have awakened the ,wardens to a sense of their duties1 for on the same day they brought in 8ij4 boks inclosed in a whytte bagge40 ,a committee was appointed to inspect the same1 8forasmuche as it is thought that mayne unreasonable fynes and other ordynannces be conteyned in theym40 ,it has been already mentioned 7p4 #fh7 that from the time of ,henry ,,vi4 beer had begun slowly to displace the old ,english ale4 ,the ,beer-brewers had gathered themselves together into a 8fellowship0 for the protection of their interests1 and were quite distinct from the ,ale-brewers1 who composed the ,brewers' ,company4 ,whatever may have been the case earlier1 in the reign of ,henry ,,viii4 the ,beer-brewers numbered in their fellowship a certain proportion of ,dutchmen4 ,in the twenty-first year of that reign it was ordained that 8no maner ,berebruer1 ,ducheman or other1 selling any bere shall1 etc40 8,also that no maner of berebruer ,englise or straunger1 shall have and kepe in his house above the nomber of two ,coblers to amende their vessells40 ,constant reference is made to the ,beer-brewers as being a fellowship separate from the ,ale-brewers until the reign of ,edward ,,vi41 by which #add time they had united1 apparently without obtaining the sanction of any authority to the change4 ,in the fifth year of that reign a resolution was passed by the ,court of ,common ,council that1 8forasmoche as the beare-bruers in the last commen counseyll here holden most dysobedyentlye1 stubborenelye1 and arrogantlye behaved theymselfes toward this honourable ,courte10 the whole craft of the ,beer-brewers are for ever disqualified from being elected to serve upon the ,common ,council2 if1 however1 the ,beer-brewers make humble submission1 they may be restored to their old status1 8if your lordship and the wysdomes of this ,citee shall then thynke it mete40 ,and forasmuch as 8most evydently yt hathe apperyd that this notable stobernes of the beare-bruers hath rysen by the counseyll and provocatioun of the ale-bruers1 which have unyted to theym all the beare-bruers10 it is ordered that for the future the two crafts shall not unite1 nor shall the ,ale-brewers compel any one to come into their ,company4 ,this state of things continued till the third year of ,queen ,mary's reign1 when a petition was presented by the ,brewers to the ,common ,council1 which recited that the two crafts had formerly been united1 8as mete and verye convenyente it was and yet is10 and prayed that the restriction might be removed4 ,the petition ended thus3 8and they with all their hartes accordinge to theire dueties shall daylye praye unto almightye god longe to prosper and preserve your honours and worshippes in moche helthe and felycytie40 ,this affecting appeal1 which would have moved a heart of stone1 had the desired effect1 and from that day to the present the ,beer-brewers and ,ale-brewers have been united1 8as mete and very convenyente it is0 that they should be4 ,different governance1 however1 was applied to the former1 and for long after this period four ,surveyors of the ,beer-brewers1 being 8substantyall sadd men10 were elected every year to supervise the trade4 ,an instance of the tyranny with which the trades were regulated in the old days has been already given2 a very similar one may be taken from an order of the ,star ,chamber in the twenty-fourth year of ,henry ,,viii41 which commands that 8in case the ,maire and ,aldermen of the same ,citie shall hereafter knowe and perceyve or understonde that any of the saide ,brewers of their frowarde and perverse myndes shall at any tyme hereafter sodenly forbere and absteyne from bruynge1 whereby the ,king's subjects shulde bee destitute or onprovided of ,drynke10 the brewhouses of such 8wilfull and obstynate0 brewers shall be taken possession of by the ,city1 who are to allow others to brew there1 and provide them materials 8in case their lak greynes to brew with40 #ade ,regrators and forestallers 7i4e41 persons who bought large stocks of provisions with the object of causing a rise in price7 were in old times severely treated by the authorities1 who generally checked their iniquitous dealings by ordering them to sell their stores at a reasonable price4 ,the forestaller1 indeed1 might think himself lucky if he escaped so easily4 ,in the fourth year of ,edward ,,vi4 four persons who had accumulated great quantities of hops in a time of scarcity were ordered to sell their whole stock at once at a reasonable price4 ,all through the reign of ,queen ,elizabeth the unfortunate brewers were vexed with frequent and1 in some cases1 contradictory regulations3 ,this beer was to be allowed2 that beer was prohibited2 prices were still fixed by law1 and qualities must correspond to the ,city regulations4 ,even though a man be ruined1 he could not leave off brewing1 for fear of being held a 8rebel40 ,a curious ordinance1 made in the fourteenth year of ,elizabeth's reign1 shows the extreme newness of the ale and beer consumed by the good men of the ,city of ,london in those days4 ,the ordinance is expressed to be for the reformation of 8dyvers greate and foule abuses disorderlye bigonne by the ,brewers10 and1 reciting that the ,brewers have begun to deliver their beer and ale but two or three hours after the same be cleansed and tunned1 it provides that no beer or ale is to be delivered to customers till it has stood in the brewer's house six hours in summer and eight in winter4 ,there seems to have been a smoke question in ,london even as early as this period1 for in the twenty-first year of ,elizabeth we find that ,john ,platt was committed to prison1 8for that he contrarye to my ,lorde ,maior's comaundement to refraine from burninge of seacoles during her ,majestie's abode at ,westminster1 he did continually burn seacole notwithstanding40 ,a petition from the ,brewers to ,her ,majesty's ,council about the same period recites that the ,brewers understand that ,her ,majesty 8findeth hersealfe greately greved and anoyed with the taste and smoke of the seacooles used in their furnaces40 ,they therefore promise to substitute wood in the brewhouses nearest to ,westminster ,palace4 ,what would have been ,her ,majesty's 8grief0 if she could have experienced a modern ,november in ,london8 ,in ,peter ,pindar's poem on the visit of ,king ,george ,,iii4 to ,whitbread's ,brewery1 allusion is made to the once popular belief that brewers' horses are usually fed on grains4 ,the origin of this idea may possibly be found in the regulations enforced in ,london as to the price of and the dealings in brewers' grains4 ,in a proclamation of ,elizabeth's #adf time it is recited that 8forasmuche as brewers' graines be victuall for horses and cattell as hey and horsebread and other provinder be10 therefore a price is to be set upon grains by the ,lord ,mayor1 and the buying of grains to sell again is forbidden4 ,the difficulties of enforcing the rules as to price and quality of ale and beer are shown in the frequent complaints of the brewers1 and in the numerous trials that were made from time to time by the ,city authorities to ascertain how much drink ought to be brewed from a fixed quantity of malt4 ,in the thirty-fifth year of ,queen ,elizabeth's reign1 a large ,committee was appointed to make trial1 at the charges of the ,city1 of twenty quarters of malt1 to be brewed into two sorts of beer1 viz41 strong beer at #fs4 #h;d4 the barrel1 and 8doble0 beer at #cs4 #d;d4 the barrel4 ,as a result of the trial1 the brewers promised to draw only five barrels and a half of double beer from a quarter of malt until the price of malt had fallen to #ahs4 the quarter2 a strong proof this of the growing taste for strong ale and beer4 ,shortly before this time the strongest ale allowed by law had been this same 8doble40 ,now the 8doble0 had taken the place of the single1 and the strong ale of twice the strength of the 8doble0 had stepped into its place4 ,a very summary way had the ,city authorities in the sixteenth century1 of treating any drink or victual which did not come up to the required standard of excellence4 ,in #aeig we find it ordered that two and fifty pipes of corrupt beer1 8being nether fitt for man's body1 nor to be converted into sawce 7i4e4 vinegar7 4 4 4 shall have the heades of all the same pipes beaten owte and the beer poured out into the channells1 part in ,cheapside1 part in ,cornhill and part in ,bishopsgate40 ,after the reign of ,elizabeth the entries concerning the ,brewers and their delinquencies become fewer and farther between4 ,the prices of ale and beer were still fixed by law1 but more common-sense views on the subject of trade and trade regulation were slowly beginning to prevail1 and we soon lose all traces of the tyrannous and vexatious regulations of which so many instances occur in earlier times4 ,one more such instance may be mentioned of an arbitrary attempt to force trade out of its natural channels1 and to lower prices and compel sobriety at one and the same time4 ,in #afad the ,lord ,mayor1 8finding the gaols pestered with prisoners1 and their bane to take root and beginning at ale-houses1 and much mischief to be there plotted1 with great waste of corn in brewing heady strong beer1 many consuming all their time and means sucking that sweet poison10 had an exact survey taken of all victualling houses and ale-houses1 which were above a thousand4 ,as above #cjj #adg barrels of beer were in some houses1 the whole quantity of beer in victualling houses amounting to above #dj1jjj barrels1 he had thought it high time to abridge their number and limit them by bonds as to the quantity of beer they should use1 and as to what orders they should observe1 whereby the price of corn and malt had greatly fallen4 ,the ,brewers1 however1 seem to have been too many for his ,lordship1 for though he limited the number of barrels to twenty per house1 and the quality of the two sorts of beer to #ds4 and #hs4 a barrel1 so that the price of malt and wheat was in a fortnight reduced by #es4 or #fs4 per quarter1 yet the ,brewers brewed as before1 alleging that the beer was to be used for export1 and1 8combining with such as kept tippling houses10 conveyed the same to the ale-houses by night1 so that in a few weeks' time the price of malt had risen to much the same figure as before4 ,in #afbf the ,brewers' ,company was in evil case1 as may be judged from a petition presented by them in that year to the ,city ,fathers1 in which they allege that they are in a decayed state and not able to govern their trade1 that their ,company consists of but six beer-brewers and a small number of ale-brewers1 and that other brewers are free of other ,companies4 ,the petition goes on to pray that no other person than a freeman of the ,company be allowed to set up a brewhouse in the ,city4 ,the petition was referred to a ,committee1 and nothing more was heard of it4 ,a similar petition1 presented to the ,common ,council in the year #ageb1 was considered and the prayer granted4 ,while1 however1 the ,brewers' ,company had been allowed to fall into decay1 the ,city regulations of the trade had become less and less irksome1 and the brewers themselves increased in wealth and prosperity4 ,many allusions may be found in the writers of the middle of the seventeenth century1 which prove that the status of the brewers had greatly improved4 ,the old ,water ,poet thus describes how the brewers 8are growne rich03-- ,thus ,water boyles1 parboyles1 and mundifies1 ,cleares1 cleanses1 clarifies1 and purifies4 ,but as it purges us from filth and stincke3 ,we must remember that it makes us drinke1 ,metheglin1 ,bragget1 ,beere1 and headstrong ,ale1 7,that can put colour in a visage pale7 ,by which meanes many ,brewers are growne rich1 ,and in estates may soare a lofty pitch4 ,men of ,goode ,ranke and place1 and much command1 ,who have 7by sodden ,water7 purchast land3 #adh ,yet sure ,i thinke their gaine had not been such ,had not good fellowes usde to drinke too much3 ,but wisely they made ,haye whilst ,sunne did shine1 ,for now our ,land is overflowne with ,wine3 ,with such a ,deluge1 or an ,inundation ,as hath besotted and halfe drown'd our ,nation4 ,some there are scarce worth #dj pence a yeere ,will hardly make a meale with ,ale or ,beere3 ,and will discourse1 that wine doth make good blood1 ,concocts his meat1 and make digestion good1 ,and after to drink ,beere1 nor will1 nor can ,he lay a churl upon a ,gentleman4 ,a somewhat similar moral may be drawn from the humorous little poem1 written a century and a half later by a namesake of the ,water ,poet3-- ,,the ,,brewer',s ,,coachman4 ,honest ,william1 an easy and good natur'd fellow1 ,would a little too oft get a little too mellow2 ,body coachman was he to an eminent brewer1 ,no better e'er sat on a coach-box to be sure4 ,his coach was kept clean1 and no mothers or nurses1 ,took more care of their babes1 than he took of his horses2 ,he had these1 aye1 and fifty good qualities more1 ,but the business of tippling could ne'er be got o'er4 ,so his master effectually mended the matter1 ,by hiring a man who drank nothing but water1 8,now ,william10 says he1 8you see the plain case1 ,had you drank as he does you'd have kept a good place40 8,drink water60 cried ,william2 8had all men done so1 ,you'd never have wanted a coachman1 ,i trow4 ,they are soakers1 like me1 whom you load with reproaches1 ,that enable you brewers to ride in your coaches40 ,a short space only may be devoted to a record of a few of the more remarkable brewers of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries4 ,jan ,steen1 of ,delph1 seems to have been a brewer famed rather for his eccentricities than for his beer4 ,he flourished in the days of ,charles ,,ii41 and ,arnold ,hinbraken1 his biographer1 says that a whole book might #adi be filled with droll episodes of his life4 8,he was so attached to boon companions1 that his ,brewery came to grief4 ,he bought wine with his money instead of malt4 ,his wife1 seeing this1 said one day to him1 #8,jan1 our living is vanishing1 our customers call in vain1 there is no beer in the cellar1 nor have we malt for a ,brew1 what will become of us8 ,you should bring life into the brewery4' #8,i'll keep it alive1' said ,jan1 and walked away4 ,he went to market and bought several live ducks1 having first told his men to fill the largest kettle with water and heat it4 ,he then threw a little malt in it1 and threw in the ,ducks1 which1 not accustomed to hot water1 flew madly through the ,brewery making a horrid noise1 so that his wife came running in to see what the matter was1 when ,jan1 turning to her1 said1 #8,my love1 is it not lively now in our ,brewery8' ,however1 he gave up brewing1 and turned ,painter40 ,william ,hicks1 who died in the year #agdj1 was one of the most remarkable ,brewers of the last century4 ,he was brewer to the ,royal household1 and left behind him a well-earned reputation for honesty and loyalty4 ,a striking proof of his loyalty may be seen to this day in the statue of ,george ,i41 which he set up on the summit of ,bloomsbury steeple1 and of which a facetious person wrote3-- ,the ,king of ,great ,britain was reckon'd before ,the head of the ,church by all good ,christian people1 ,but his brewer has added still one title more ,to the rest1 and has made him the head of the steeple4 ,another celebrated brewer of last century was ,humphrey ,parsons1 twice ,lord ,mayor of ,london4 ,this gentleman1 when upon a hunting party with ,louis ,,xv41 happened to be exceedingly well mounted1 and1 contrary to the etiquette observed in the ,french ,court1 outstripped the rest of the company1 and was first in at the death4 ,on the ,king asking the name of the stranger1 he was indignantly informed that he 8was un chevalier de malte40 ,the ,king entered into conversation with ,mr4 ,parsons1 and asked the price of his horse4 ,the ,chevalier1 bowing in the most courtly style1 replied that the horse was beyond any price other than his ,majesty's acceptance4 ,the horse was delivered1 and from thenceforward the chevalier ,parsons had the exclusive privilege of supplying the ,french ,court and people with his far-famed 8black champagne40 ,it has been the sad reflection of many an one1 on wandering in a churchyard and reading the epitaphs of the departed1 that certainly the most virtuous and highly-gifted of mankind have already passed #aej away--that is1 if the epitaphs are absolutely to be relied on4 ,mr4 ,tipper1 the ,newhaven brewer1 who died in #aghe1 and lies buried in ,newhaven ,churchyard1 is an instance in point4 ,surely none but himself could have been ,mr4 ,tipper's parallel4 ,his epitaph runs thus3-- ,reader6 with kind regards this grave survey1 ,nor heedless pass where ,tipper's ashes lay4 ,honest he was1 ingenuous1 blunt and kind1 ,and dared do1 what few dare do--speak his mind4 ,philosophy and ,history well he knew1 ,was versed in ,physick and in ,surgery too4 ,the best old ,stingo he both brewed and sold1 ,nor did one knavish trick to get his gold4 ,he played thro' life a varied comic part1 ,and knew immortal ,hudibras by heart4 ,reader1 in real truth1 such was the man1 ,be better1 wiser1 laugh more if you can4 ,the last resting place of ,mr4 ,pepper1 sometime brewer of ,stamford1 in ,lincolnshire1 bears these lines3-- ,though hot my name1 yet mild my nature1 ,i bore good will to every creature2 ,i brew'd good ale and sold it too1 ,and unto each ,i gave his due4 ,the following lines were composed on a brewer who1 becoming too big a man for his trade1 retired from business--and died3-- ,ne'er quarrel with your craft1 ,nor with your shop dis'gree4 ,he turned his nose up at his ,tub ,and the bucket kicked he4 ,and so the old ,brewers are dead and gone1 with their virtues and their faults1 their troubles and their successes1 and the modern ,brewers reign in their stead4 ,illustration #aea ,illustration ,,chapter ,,vii4 8,the ,almaynes with their smale ,rhenish wine are contented2 but we must have ,march beere1 double beere1 dagger ale1 and bracket 4 4 40 ,gascoygne's ,delicate ,dyet for ,daintie-,mouthed ,droonkards4 ,alum si fit stalum non est malum ,beerum si fit clerum est sincerum4 ,old ,rhyme4 ,,various ,,kinds ,,of ,,ales ,,and ,,beers4--,,some ,,foreign ,,beers4 -- ,,receipts4 -- ,,songs4 -- ,,anecdotes4 ,an attempt to describe1 or even to specify1 all the ales and beers that have gained a local or more wide-spread fame1 would be a lengthy task4 ,nearly every county in ,england1 and nearly every town of any size1 has been at one time or another noted for its malt liquors4 ,the renown of some localities has been evanescent1 having depended probably upon the special art of some 8barmy0 brewer or skilful ale-wife1 whilst of others it may be said that years only increase their fame and spread their reputation4 ,from a perusal of those queer old collections of quackery1 magic1 herb-lore and star-lore1 the ,saxon ,leechdoms1 it may be gathered that our ,saxon ancestors brewed a goodly assortment of malt liquors4 ,they made beer1 and strong beer2 ale1 and strong ale2 clear ale1 lithe 7clear7 beer2 and twybrowen1 or double-brewed ale1 the mighty ancestor of the 8doble-doble0 beer of ,elizabethan times4 ,besides all these1 there was foreign ale for those whose tastes were too fastidious to be satisfied with their native productions4 #aeb ,on the authority of the ,alvisml1 it may be said that no distinction was originally drawn between ale and beer1 except1 perhaps1 that the latter was considered to be a somewhat more honourable designation2 8l heitir meth mnnum en meth ,asum bjoor0 7i4e41 ale it is called among men1 and among the gods beer74 ,the ,exeter ,book1 a collection of ,anglo-,saxon poems1 contains the expressions1 8a good beer-drinker10 8angry with ale10 8drunken with beer10 in close juxtaposition and apparently without any distinction of meaning4 ,a distinction must1 however1 have arisen in very early times1 for in the collection of ,saxon ,leechdoms1 mentioned above1 a direction is to be found that a patient is on no account to drink beer1 although he may partake in moderation of ale and wine2 and the same work contains the remarkable and apparently impossible statement that while a pint of ale weighs six pennies more than a pint of water1 a pint of beer weighs twenty-two pennies less than a pint of water4 ,the word beer seems gradually to have given place to the word ale1 and though the former may have lingered in some parts of the country1 and the passage from ,king ,horn already quoted shows that in the thirteenth century it was not quite forgotten--ale became the usual word to express malt liquor4 ,it was ,english ale that strengthened the arm of ,english bowmen at ,crecy and ,poictiers1 and on many another well-fought field2 and ,english ale was the 8barley-broth0 which 8decocted0 the cold blood of the dwellers in this land of fogs and mist 8to such valiant heat0 and stubborn endurance in their constant struggles with the valour and chivalry of ,france4 ,the old ,english word 8beor10 indeed1 had become so weakened and specialised1 even as early as the tenth century1 that it is to be found in a ,vocabulary of that date as an equivalent for idromellum1 a word properly signifying an inferior sort of mead1 but also denoting the sweet wort1 before fermentation had changed it into ale4 ,it is curious to observe that when next the word 8beer0 came into common use in our language1 it was by introduction of our neighbours the ,flemings1 and was specially applied to malt liquor in which the bitter of the hop was an important ingredient4 ,the word left us in sweetness1 it returned in bitterness1 and so the whirligig of time brings in its revenges4 ,beer became the name for hopped ale1 but that distinction soon began to be less significant1 for as early as #afaf we find ,gervase ,markham1 in his ,maison ,rustique1 recommends the use of a small quantity of hops in ale-brewing4 #aec ,taylor1 in ,drink and ,welcome1 dwells upon this distinction between ale and beer in the seventeenth century as follows3--8,now to write of ,beere ,i shall not need to wet my pen much with the naming of it1 it being a drinke which ,antiquitie was an ,aleien or a meere stranger to1 and as it hath scarcely any name1 so hath it no habitation1 for the places or houses where it is sold doth still retain the name of an ,alehouse4 ,this comparison needs a ,sir ,reverence to usher it1 but being ,beere is but an ,upstart and a ,foreigner or ,alien1 in respect of ,ale1 it may serve instead of a better2 ,nor would it differ from ,ale in anything1 but onely that an ,aspiring ,amaritudinous ,hop comes crawling lamely in1 and makes a ,bitter difference betweene them1 but if the ,hop be so crippled1 that he cannot be gotton to make the oddes1 the place may poorely bee supply'd with chopp'd ,broome 7new gathered7 whereby ,beere hath never attained the sober ,title of ,ale1 for it is proper to say ,a ,stand of ,ale1 and a ,hoggeshead of ,beere1 which in common sense is but a swinish phrase or appellation40 ,that curious ballad entitled ,skelton's ,ghost1 which was probably the work of a rhymer of the seventeenth century1 points to the same distinction4 ,the ghost of ,skelton the ,laureate is supposed to be addressing some of the jovial characters of the period much in the tone of one who1 having lived in the golden age 7of liquor71 looks down with pity and scorn at a later-day's degenerate topers4 ,these are the particular lines in point3-- ,for in ,king ,harry's time ,when ,i made this rhyme 99 99 99 99 99 ,full ,winchester gage ,we had in that age ,the ,dutchman's strong beere ,was not hopt over here1 ,to us 'twas unknowne2 ,bare ale of our owne1 ,in a bowle we might bring1 ,to welcome the ,king4 ,at the present day1 in the eastern counties1 and indeed over the greater portion of the country1 ale means strong1 and beer means small malt liquor2 in ,london beer usually means porter 7i4e41 the small beer of stout72 while in the west country beer is the 8mighty0 liquor1 and ale the small4 ,in the trade1 however1 beer is the comprehensive word for all malt liquors4 #aed ,ale was not the only word employed in late ,saxon times to signify the 8oyle of barly10 for wt1 from the ,saxon swatan1 was in common use as a synonym1 and now1 perhaps1 finds its representative in the slang phrase1 8heavy wet40 ,the same term lingers in ,scotland1 and lovers of ,burns will remember his line1 8,it gars the swats gae glibber doun40 ,in former times wheat and oats were malted1 as well as barley1 and though1 as has been previously stated 7p4 #aje71 the law from time to time prohibited this use of wheat1 as tending to enhance the price of bread1 the practice was stronger than the precept1 and continued to prevail down to a comparatively recent date4 ,cogan1 in ,the ,haven of ,health 7#aehf71 thus describes the effect of the different malts on the resultant liquor3--8,for beere or ale being made of wheat inclineth more to heat1 for wheat is hot4 ,if it be made of barley malt1 it enclineth more to cold1 for barley is cold4 ,and if it be made of barley and otes together it is yet more temperate and of less nourishment40 ,in the reign of ,edward ,,vi4 even beans were used in brewing1 for the ,brewers' ,company1 in a petition to the ,common ,council asking for a revision of the prices of ale and beer1 complain that the articles they use in brewing1 viz41 8wheate1 malte1 oates1 beanes1 hoppes 4 4 4 4 4 4 at these days are comen unto greate and exceeding pryces40 ,it has been shown that for several hundred years the prices and qualities of ale were fixed by law4 ,as a rule1 only two kinds were allowed to be brewed for sale1 the better and the second1 or1 as they were called in some places1 and notably in ,london1 the double and the single4 ,the prices in ,henry ,,iii4's reign for the better kind were fixed at #a;d4 for two gallons sold within cities1 and #a;d4 for three or four gallons sold in country places4 ,in ,edward ,,iii4's reign three sorts of ale might be brewed1 the best at #a;d4 a gallon1 the middling at #a;d41 and the third at three farthings2 and these prices seem to have been in force in the ,city of ,london with slight variations down to the time of ,henry ,,viii41 when the ,brewers upon several occasions stirred themselves to get the prices raised1 but met with varying success4 ,in the early part of the reign the retail price of the best ale was still #a;d4 the gallon1 and of the second1 called threehalfpenny ale1 #a;d4 per gallon4 ,double beer was to be #a;d4 per gallon1 and single d4 and a half-farthing4 ,the wholesale price for beer was also fixed1 and three kinds were allowed1 viz41 8,dobyll0 at #ae;d4 the kilderkin1 8,threehalfpenny0 at #ab;d41 and 8,syngyll0 at #aj;d4 ,in the twenty-fourth year of ,henry ,,viii4 the ,brewers1 after much agitation1 got the prices of beer raised to #bs4 the kilderkin for the 8doble10 #aee and #as4 for the 8syngyll02 but even with that they were not satisfied1 and expressed their dissatisfaction in protests to the ,common ,council1 who listened to their complaint1 8but after long consideration it was agreed1 that whereas the ,serjeaunt ,gybson hath exhibited and rote a boke of the gaynes of the said bere-brewers10 their case should be remitted to the care of a committee appointed to look into it4 ,in the result no alteration was then sanctioned1 but five years afterwards the price was raised to #cs4 #d;d4 the kil4 for the best1 and #bs4 #h;d4 for the threehalfpenny4 ,the strength of ale usually brewed about this time may be judged from answers given by ,london brewers when interrogated on the subject4 ,john ,sheffield1 on being asked 7#cf ,henry ,,viii47 how many kilderkins of good ale he draws from a quarter of malt1 answers1 8,little above five40 ,other brewers say much the same thing1 though ,richard ,pyckering evades the question by saying that 8he commytteth the whole to his wife1 and what she draweth from a quarter he knoweth not40 ,this would point to an ale of very considerable strength4 ,in the thirty-seventh year of ,henry ,,viii41 another committee was appointed to consider this all-important question1 8on account of the grete derthe and scarcitye at this present of all kinds of grayne20 but nothing resulted from their deliberations4 ,the ,brewers1 however1 seem to have stuck to their text with great pertinacity1 and in the fifth year of ,edward ,,vi4 obtained a decision of a committee of the ,common ,council1 that they could no longer supply the ,city at the then existing prices4 ,two kinds of beer only are to be allowed1 our old friends1 8doble0 and 8syngyll10 and the strength and quality are defined as follows3 8,of every quarter of grayne that any beare-bruer shall brewe of doble beare1 he shall drawe fowre barrells and one fyrkyn of goode holsome drynke for mannes bodye10 and double that quantity of single beer4 ,the price of the double beer is to be #ds4 #h;d4 the barrel1 and of single beer #bs4 #d;d41 until the price of malt is reduced to #aes4 the quarter1 and of wheat to #abs41 when the old prices are to be revived4 ,little variations of price occurred until the reign of ,elizabeth1 who seems1 from contemporary accounts1 to have been frequently exercised by the behaviour of the ,london ,brewers4 ,in a ,royal proclamation of the second year of her reign1 she complains that the ,brewers have left off brewing any single beer1 but brew 8a kynde of very strong bere calling the same doble-doble-bere which they do commenly utter and sell at a very greate and excessyve pryce10 and orders the old rules and rates to be observed2 and in particular that every ,brewer shall once a week brew 8as much syngyl as doble beare and more40 ,twenty years later the 8doble-doble0 seems to have been #aef sanctioned in practice if not in name1 for the ,brewers are ordered to sell two sorts of beer only1 the double at #ds4 the barrel and 8the other sort of beare of the best kynde at #gs4 #f;d40 ,three years later still the ,queen declares that the disorders of the ,brewers1 through their 8ungodly gredyness10 have grown to such lengths that something must be done2 and an ,act of ,common ,council brings back the beer to double and single1 and applies other remedies4 ,in #afed three sorts of beer are allowed--the best at #hs4 the barrel1 the second at #fs41 and the small at #ds42 and shortly afterwards a fourth kind was added at #ajs4 ,the efforts of the authorities to fix the prices of ale and beer by arbitrary means were not long afterwards finally discontinued4 ,the limitation and classification of ale and beer according to their strength1 was maintained down to quite recent times because of the duties laid upon them1 but on the repeal of those duties ales of every strength1 kind and description were1 and have since been1 extensively manufactured4 ,every want1 whim1 and fancy of the ale-drinker may now be gratified4 ,there is old ,scotch or old ,burton for the lover of strong beer1 porter for the labouring classes1 stout for the weakly1 and last1 but far from least1 that splendid liquid1 pale ale1 which1 when bottled1 vies with champagne in its excellence and delicacy of flavour1 and beats it altogether out of the field when we take into consideration its sustaining and restorative powers4 ,a tale is told of a man who asserted that tea was stronger than beer4 8,a pot of beer10 said he1 8will seldom attract more than a couple of men about it1 but a pot of tea will draw half-a-dozen or more old women40 ,a potent drink1 much in vogue with the roystering blades of former times1 was that known as 8huff-cap40 ,the name was a cant expression for strong ale1 which was so called because it induced people to set their caps in a bold huffing fashion4 ,the term huff-cap was also used to denote a swaggering fellow1 as may be gathered from ,clifford's ,note on ,dryden 7#afhg73--8,prethee tell me true1 was not this huff-cap once the ,indian ,emperour1 and at another time did he not call himself ,maximine80 ,fulwel's ,art of ,flattery thus mentions this variety of the juice of barley3--8,to quench the scorching heat of our parched throtes1 with the best nippitatum in this toun1 which is commonly called huff-cap1 it will make a man look as though he had seen the devil and quickly move him to call his own father a ------0 7naughty name74 ,harrison1 writing on the food and diet of the ,english in #aehg1 also #aeg mentions huff-cap1 and speaks of the mightiness of the ale in which our ancestors indulged2 ale1 in fact1 as an old ,proverb has it1 8that would make a cat speak40 8,howbeit10 he writes1 8though they are so nice in the proportion of their bread1 yet in lieu of the same their is such headie ale and beere in moste of them1 as for the mightinesse thereof among suche as seeke it oute1 is commonly called huffe cap1 the mad dog1 angel's food1 dragon's milke1 etc4 ,and this is more to be noted1 that when one of late fell by ,god's prouvidence into a troubled conscience1 after he had considered well of his reachlesse life1 and dangerous estate2 another thinking belike to change his colour and not his mind1 carried him straightwaie to the strongest ale1 as to the next physician4 ,it is incredible to saie how our malte bugs lug at this liquor1 even as pigs should lie in a rowe1 lugging at their dame's teats1 till they lie still againe and be not able to wag4 ,neither did ,romulus and ,remus sucke their shee woolfe or sheepherd's wife ,lupa with such eger and sharpe devotion as these men hale at hufcap1 till they be red as cockes1 and little wiser than their combs40 ,a strong ale1 called 8,huff10 is still brewed at ,winchester1 and is kept for the use of the fellows 7not the boys7 of that ancient institution4 ,some idea of the strength of the ale usually drunk in the country districts in ,elizabeth's reign1 may be gathered from a passage in a letter from ,leicester to ,burleigh1 written while the ,queen was on one of her famous progresses through the country3 8,there is not one drop of good drink here for her4 ,we were fain to send to ,london1 and ,kenilworth1 and divers other places where ale was2 her own bere was so strong as there was no man able to drink it40 ,to quote again from old ,harrison on the fondness of his contemporaries for strong ale1 speaking of workmen and others attending bride-ales 7i4e41 marriage feasts7 and such like festivities1 he says3 8,if they happen to stumble upon a peece of venison and a cup of wine or verie strong beere or ale 7which latter they commonlie provide against their appointed daies7 they thinke their cheere so great1 and themselves to have fared so well1 as the ,lord ,maior of ,london1 with whom1 when their bellies be full1 they will not stick to make comparison40 ,in the year #afhj1 during the debate on the ,act to restrain the excess and abuse used in ,victualling ,houses1 one member said that he wished 8there might be a reformation of ,ale1 which is now made so strong1 that he offered to affirm it upon oath1 that it is commonly sold for a ,groat a quart4 ,it is as strong as wine1 and will burn like ,sack40 #aeh ,the ,water ,poet thus describes the different qualities of mild and stale beer as known to the topers of the seventeenth century3 8,the stronger ,beere is divided into two parts 7viz471 mild and stale2 the first may ease a man of a drought1 but the latter is like water cast into a ,smith's forge1 and breeds more heart-burnings1 and as rust eates into ,iron1 so overstale ,beere gnawes aulet holes in the entrales1 or else my skill failes1 and what ,i have written of it is to be held as a ,jest40 ,nipitatum or nipitato was another slang name for very strong ale4 ,it is mentioned in ,the ,knight of the ,burning ,pestle3-- ,my father oft will tell me of a drink1 ,in ,england found and ,nipitato called1 ,which driveth all the sorrow from your hearts4 ,another epithet applied to ale1 and denoting great strength1 was 8humming10 and a reason for the term is shown by the extract from a letter from ,john ,howell to ,lord ,ciffe 7seventeenth century71 who1 in speaking of metheglin1 says 8that it keeps a humming in the brain1 which made one say that he loved not metheglin because he was used to speak too much of the house he came from1 meaning the hive40 ,the humming in the head would be equally applicable to the effects of ale as of metheglin1 though the hive would only apply to the latter4 ,the same idea is sometimes expressed by the term hum-cup1 as in the lines from the old ,sussex sheep-shearing song1 beginning3-- ',tis a barrel then of hum-cup1 which we call the black ram4 ,besides these strong ales and others too numerous to mention1 there was1 at the beginning of last century1 a certain strong beer called ,pharaoh1 which gave its name to an ale-house at ,barley1 in ,cambridgeshire4 ,the reason of the name is not certainly known1 although it was said in the county that it was so called because it would not let the people go4 ,this drink is no longer made in ,england1 but a strong beer of the same name is much appreciated in ,belgium4 ,the same liquor is mentioned in the ,praise of ,yorkshire ,ale 7#afhe73 4 4 4 ,coffee1 ,twist1 ,old ,pharaoh and old ,hoc1 ,juniper ,brandy and ,wine de ,langue-,dock4 ,as there have been many strong and mighty ales since the days when-- ,king ,hardicanute1 'midst ,danes and ,saxons stout1 ,carous'd on nut-brown ale and dined on growt1 #aei so there have been an abundance of small poor drinks1 which have been from time to time known by various terms of contempt1 the titles 8whip-belly-vengeance0 and 8rotgut0 being1 perhaps1 on the whole1 the most expressive4 ,shakspere sums up the humdrum of retired matronly life in the well-known line1 8,to suckle fools and chronicle small beer40 ,beer which had been kept so long that it had turned sour was at one time known as 8broken beer10 much as we speak now of broken victuals4 ,ben ,jonson1 in his ,masque of ,gypsies1 makes mention of an infant 8very carefully carried at his mother's back1 rock'd in a cradle of ,welsh cheese like a maggot1 and there fed with broken beer1 and blown wine of the best daily40 ,in olden times small beer discharged that friendly office assigned by later and more fastidious days to soda-water1 namely1 the cooling of the parched throat after a too earnest devotion to the rites of ,bacchus4 ,welcome to my lips1 great king of frolic1 ,stern foe to headache1 devils blue1 and cholic-- ,no dandy soda-water bring to me1 ,no ,lady's lemonade1 no soft bohea2 ,thy sterner aid ,i claim1 and ask thy might ,to quell the riots of that punch last night2 wrote one of the ,brasenose ,college poets4 ,christopher ,sly1 awakening from his debauch1 cries aloud for 8a pot of small ale 4 4 4 and once again a pot of the smallest ale10 and ,prince ,hal 8remembers the poor creature small beer40 ,a nameless author1 writing in the ,gentleman's ,magazine1 #agdf1 describes this function of small beer1 and in poetic vein tells how after a 8wine10 awaking from a feverish sleep1 he sees before him a venerable man1 ,old1 but not bending with the weight of years2 ,his face was ruddy1 and he smiled benign1 ,as if nor sickness had his form impair'd1 ,nor anxious cares his soul3 his silver'd head ,was bound with wreaths of salutary flow'rs1 ,call'd ,hops by men1 but ,panace by ,gods4 8,my son10 he said 7and at his voice divine ,new life beat vig'rous in each throbbing vein7 8,long has my friendly influence mov'd the scorn1 ,my name the laughter of the sons of men1 ,the sons of men1 regardless of their weal #afj ,and health1 the greatest sublunary good6 ,the genius ,i of liquor1 call'd below ,small ,beer1 and doubtless you have heard me damn'd ,full oft1 by ,belials rude1 outrageous sons2 ,but yet1 were honour due1 to ,temp'rance given1 ,mine were the favours of th' applauding crowd1 99 99 99 99 99 ----,here1 taste and live1 live soberly and well40 ,this said1 a vase with steady hand he gave1 ,full to the brim1 ,i quaft'd the tender'd draught2 ,swift the cool stream refresh'd my burning throat1-- 99 99 99 99 99 ,in haste my visionary guest retir'd1 ,and left me deep in contemplation drown'd ,resolving reason never more to quench ,in floods ,lethean of deceitful wine2 ,deceitful wine6 embrew'd with mixtures dire1 ,by the curs'd vintner's art for sordid pelf4 ,o6 grant me1 ,heav'n1 to live with health and ease1 ,my books1 a sober friend1 ,small ,beer1 and sense3 ,so shall my years the smiling fates prolong1 ,and each auspicious morn shall see me happy4 ,even in distant times particular localities became noted for the excellence of their brewers4 ,london early attained1 and has maintained until the present day1 a great reputation for its ale4 ,chaucer alludes to the taste of the ,cook for a 8draught of ,london ale40 ,tyrwhitt says that in #aejd ,london ale was of such excellence that it fetched #es4 a barrel more than ,kentish ale4 ,this can hardly be1 as we have already seen that at that period the barrel of ,london double ale only fetched #ds4 ,probably ,tyrwhitt intended to refer to a tun and not to a barrel4 ,the occasion referred to was the enthronement of ,william ,wareham as ,archbishop of ,canterbury1 when the provision made for washing down the vast stores of eatables was something tremendous4 ,besides great quantities of wine of many sorts1 there were four tuns of ,london ale1 six of ,kentish1 and twenty of ,english beer4 ,the malt liquors of ,london1 and especially ,london porter and stout1 are known from pole to pole1 and ,burton ales have a no less world-wide reputation4 ,indeed1 the word ,burton has in itself come to be synonymous with ale1 and the expression 8a glass of ,burton0 has become a household word4 #afa ,burton and its famous brew are treated of elsewhere in these pages1 and it must suffice here to insert an old song in praise of this nineteenth century nectar3-- ,,burton ,,ale4 ,ne'er tell me of liquors from ,spain or from ,france1 ,they may get in your heels and inspire you to dance1 ,but the ,ale of ,old ,burton if mellow and right ,will get in your head and inspire you to fight4 ,your ,claret and ,rhenish and fine ,calcavella ,were never yet able to make a good fellow1 ,but of stout ,burton ,ale1 if you drink but enough1 ',twill make you all jolly and hearty and tough4 ,then let meagre ,frenchmen still batten on ,wine1 ,they ne'er will digest a good ,english ,sirloin1 ,parbleu they may caper and ,vapour along1 ,but right ,burton can make us both valiant and strong4 ,come here then ye ,mortals who're prone to despair ,from frowns of ,dame ,fortune or frowns of the fair1 ,whate'er your disorder1 three nips will prevail1 ,and the best ,panacea you'll find1 ,burton ,ale4 ,then ,molly approach with your ,peacock and ,cann-- ,not ,juno herself brought more blessings to ,man-- ,with nip after nip1 all my sorrows beguile1 ,and my ,fortune and ,mistress shall presently smile4 ,old strong beer is sometimes known by the name of ,stingo1 and this appellation seems1 for a couple of hundred years at least1 to have been specially applied to ,yorkshire ,ale4 ,the estimation in which this liquor was held at the end of the eighteenth century1 and the wonders it was deemed capable of bringing about1 may be learned from a perusal of ,the ,praise of ,yorkshire ,ale1 an old poem1 extracts from which may be found in the chapter devoted to ,ballads4 ,we have been given to understand that the brewers of ,yorkshire ,stingo have not forgotten their ancient skill4 ,our old friend ,taylor mentions a goodly number of places where especially good ale was brewed in his day4 8,i should be voluminous10 he says1 8if ,i should insist upon all pertinent and impertinent passages #afb in the ,behalfe of ,ale1 as also of the retentive fame that ,yorke1 ,chester1 ,hull1 ,nottingham1 ,darby1 ,gravesende1 with a ,toaste1 and other ,countries still enjoy1 by making this untainted liquor in the primitive way1 and how ,windsor doth more glory in that composition than all the rest of her speculative pleasures4 4 4 4 4 ,also there is a ,towne neere ,margate in ,kent 7in the ,isle of ,thanet7 called ,northdowne1 which ,towne hath ingrost much ,fame1 ,wealth1 and ,reputation from the prevalent potencie of their attractive ,ale40 ,derby had as early as the sixteenth century a great reputation for its ales4 ,sir ,lionel ,rash1 in ,green's ,tu ,quoque1 an ,elizabethan comedy1 says3 8,i have sent my daughter this morning as far as ,pimlico to fetch a draught of ,derby ,ale1 that it may fetch a colour into her cheeks40 ,fuller1 in his ,worthies of ,england1 with an evident conservative taste for ale1 that 8authenticall drinke of old ,england10 mentions the repute of ,derby ale with some circumlocution1 but with no stinted praise4 8,ceres being our ,english ,bacchus10 he remarks1 8this was our ancestors' common drink1 many imputing the strength of their ,infantry 7in drawing so stiff a bow7 to their constant 7but moderate7 drinking thereof4 ,yea1 now the ,english begin to turn to ,ale 7may they in due time regain their former vigorousnesse7 and whereas in our remembrance1 ,ale went out when swallows came in1 seldom appearing after ,easter2 it now hopeth 7having climbed up ,may ,hill7 to continue its course all the year4 ,yet have we lost the ,preservative1 what ever it was1 which 7before ,hops were found out7 made it last so long in our land some two hundred years since1 for half a year at least after the brewing thereof2 otherwise of necessity they must brew every day1 yea pour it out of the ,kive into the ,cup1 if the prodigious ,english ,hospitality in former ages be considered1 with the multitude of menial servants and strangers entertained4 ,now never was the wine of ,sarepta better known to the ,syrians1 that of ,chios to the ,grecians1 of ,phalernum to the ,latines1 than the ,canary of ,derby is to the ,english thereabout40 ,manchester at about the same period seems to have had a great assortment of ,ales and ,beers1 if we are to believe ,taylor1 who1 in his ,pennyless ,pilgrimage1 tells ,how men of ,manchester did use me well1 99 99 99 99 99 ,we went into the house of one ,john ,pinners 7,a man that lives among a crew of sinners7 ,and there eight severall sorts of ,ale we had1 ,all able to make one starke drunke or mad4 #afc ,but ,i with courage bravely flinched not1 ,and gave the ,towne leave to discharge the shot1 ,we had at one time set upon the table1 ,good ,ale of ,hisope1 'twas not ,esope fable3 ,then had we ,ale of ,sage1 and ,ale of ,malt1 ,and ,ale of ,woorme-wood1 that could make one halt1 ,with ,ale of ,rosemary1 and ,bettony1 ,and two ,ales more1 or else ,i needs must lye4 ,but to conclude this drinking ,alye tale1 ,we had a sort of ,ale called scurvy ,ale4 ,the southern district of ,devon1 which is locally known as ,south ,hams1 has long been famed for a curious liquor known as 8white ale40 ,the beverage is of great antiquity1 and has been subject to tithe from time immemorial4 ,kingsbridge is supposed to have been the place where white ale was first brewed4 ,it used to be made of malt1 a small quantity of hops1 flour1 spices1 and a mysterious compound known as 8grout10 or 8ripening10 the manufacture of which was1 and may be still1 preserved as a great secret in a few families4 ,in another receipt for making this ale it is stated that a number of eggs should be added to the liquor before it is allowed to ferment1 and this seems to have been an essential of the original brew1 or at any rate was so considered in #agda4 ,a writer at that date says3--8,the ,ale-wives1 whose province of making this ,ale it commonly falls under to manage from the beginning to the end1 are most of them as curious in their brewing it1 as the ,dairy women in making their butter1 for as it is a ,white ,ale it soon sullies by dirt 4 4 4 4 2 the wort is brewed by the hostess1 but the fermentation is brought on by the purchase of what they call #8ripening1' or a composition1 as some say1 of flower of malt and white of eggs 4 40 ,this luscious liquid has been described as 8not the sparkling beverage brewed from malt and hops1 but a milky-looking compound1 of which1 judging from the flavour1 milk1 spice and gin seemed to be among the ingredients4 ,it does not improve by keeping1 and is brewed only in small quantities for immediate consumption4 ,it is kept in large bottles1 and you will scarcely pass a public-house from ,darmouth to ,plymouth without seeing evidence of its consumption by the empty bottles piled away outside the premises40 ,at the present time a considerable quantity of white ale is made in and about ,tavistock4 ,it is now1 however1 brewed in a simpler manner than of yore1 and consists simply of common ale with eggs and flour #afd added4 ,the labourers of that part of the country much affect it1 and as it is highly nutritious it is regarded by many of them as 8meat1 drink and cloth0 combined4 ,a bloated habit of body is said to arise from a too faithful adherence to this luscious fluid4 ,a former great connoisseur of this ,west-country ale1 one ,bone ,phillips1 lies buried just outside the church door at ,kingsbridge2 the following lines were inscribed over his grave at his request3-- ,here lie ,i at the church door1 ,here be ,i because ,i'm poor1 ,the further in the more you pay1 ,here lie ,i as warm as they4 ,while on the subject of epitaphs1 the following may be quoted as having some bearing on the subject specially treated of in this chapter3-- ,poor ,john ,scott lies buried here2 ,tho' once he was both hale and stout1 ,death stretched him on his bitter bier3 ,in another world he hops about4 ,an ale of a similar nature to white ale goes in ,cornwall by the rather uneuphonious title of 8,laboragol40 ,somewhat similar to the foregoing was grout#dg ale1 which is said by ,halliwell1 on the authority of ,dean ,milles' ,,ms4 glossary1 to have been different from white ale1 of a brownish colour1 and known only to the people about ,newton ,bussel1 who kept the method of preparing it a secret4 ,a physician1 a native of that place1 informed him that the preparation was made of 8malt almost burnt in an iron pot1 mixed with some of the barm which rises on the first working in the keeve1 a small quantity of which invigorates the whole mass and makes it very heady40 #afe #dg ,the word grout properly signifies ground meal or malt4 ,kennett says that in ,leicestershire the infusion of malt and water before it is fully boiled is called grout1 and after it is tunned up it is called wort4 ,ray explains it as wort of the last running4 ,pegge says it is only drank by poor people1 who are on that account called 8grouters40 ,see ,halliwell's ,dict4 of ,arch4 and ,prov4 ,words4 ,in the old play1 ,tom ,tyler and his ,wife1 growt is used to signify a kind of ale4 ,this jolly growt is jolly and stout ,i pray you stout it still-a1 ,while mentioning some few of the places specially noted for their ales1 our ancient seats of learning must not be forgotten4 ,who has not heard of ,trinity audit1 and of that scarcely less famous liquor1 ,brasenose ,ale8 ,many who have tasted the former have had no words to express their feelings2 some have said that it is as superior to all other mortal brews as ,chateau ,lafitte is to vin ordinaire4 ,these may seem words of extravagant praise2 but let the reader who has never tasted this famous drink reserve his judgment on the point until he has1 and above all let him lose no time in putting his judgment to the test4 ,trinity audit would justify the eulogy of the host in the ,beaux' ,stratagem--8,as smooth as oil1 sweet as milk1 clear as amber1 strong as brandy2 fancy it ,burgundy1 only fancy it1 and it is worth ten shillings a quart40 ,oh1 in truth1 it gladdens the heart to see ,what may spring from the ,ale of ,trinitie1-- ,a scholar--a fellow1--a rector blithe1 7,fit to take any amount of tithe7-- ,perhaps a bishop--perhaps1 by grace1 ,one may mount to the ,archiepiscopal place1 ,and wield the crosier1 an awful thing1 ,the envy of all1 and--the parsons' ,king6 ,o ,jove6 who would struggle with learning pale1 ,that could beat down the world by the strength of ,ale6 ,for me1--,i avow1 could my thoughtless prime ,come back with the wisdom of mournful time1 ,i'd labour--,i'd toil--by night and day1 7,mixing liquors and books away17 ,till ,i conquer'd that high and proud degree1 ,m4 ,a4 7,master of ,ale7 of ,trinitie4#dh #dh ,a ,panegyric on ,ale addressed to ,w4 ,l4 ,birkbeck1 ,esq41 by ,barry ,cornwall4 ,brasenose ,college1 ,oxford1 has long been noted for its ale4 ,as each ,shrovetide comes round1 the college butler1 as a condition of the tenure of his office1 presents a barrel of the strongest nappy1 and celebrates the event in verse1 handing on to generations yet unborn the name and fame of the ,brasenose brew4 ,the earlier of these ale poems1 which are in reality the effusions of some poetical undergraduate1 had a fleeting existence1 but some years ago ,mr4 ,prior1 who was then and still continues1 #aff the butler of the ,college1 published a collection of them in a small volume1 entitled ,brasenose ,ale4 ,in his little book1 which we commend to the perusal of all good ale-knights1 occur the following lines1 written by ,r4 ,j4 ,b41 in #ahce3-- ,lo6 ,prior hastens with his motley crew1 ,to pour the foaming liquor to our view3 ,clasps his firm hand in all a ,butler's pride ,the cup no ,brasenose ,fellow e'er denied3 ,yet secret triumph o'er his brow has cast ,that ,ale the sweetest1 as that brew the last6 8,away1 ye lighter drinks6 ye swipes1 away1 ,where masters bully1 and where boys obey10 ,the brewer cried2 and taught the ,ale to live ,with all the charms that malt and hops could give4 ,warm'd at his touch1 behold the vapours rise ,in all their genuine fragrance to the skies3 ,no beer-shops bev'rage1 such as ,cockneys buy1 ,foul to the taste1 and loathsome to the eye2 ,no dingy mixture1 vulgarly call'd swipes2 ,no quassia juice1 promoter of the gripes2 ,but true proportions of good hops and malt1 ,mingled with care1 then stow'd within the vault3 ,the hue that tells its potency--the scent ,that breathes as if from blest ,arabia sent4 ,still o'er his ,ale fond ,prior hangs confest1 ,and joy and triumph swell his manly breast4 99 99 99 99 99 ,such1 glorious liquor of the olden time1 ,when to be drunk with ,ale was deem'd no crime2 ,when in the morn and eve and mid-day stood ,upon our fathers' boards old ,english food2 ,such hast thou been1 'mid war and change the same1 ,link'd with the poet's and the scholar's name1 ,mellow'd by age--but still with flavour higher1 ,the pride of ,brasenose1 and the boast of ,prior4 ,how ,brasenose ,college came by its peculiar name is a much disputed point4 ,there is a legend that in the far-off time of long ago certain students of the temporary university at ,stamford1 the iron ring of whose door-knocker was fitted in a nose of brass1 migrated to ,oxford1 #afg and there set up a brazen nose over the entrance of their college as a souvenir of their former abode4 ,equally plausible is the tradition that upon the site of the college brewery once stood ,king ,alfred's brasinium 7brewhouse71 and that the name1 clinging to the place through all the changes and chances of a thousand years1 now appears under the slightly modified form of ,brasenose4 ,if the latter theory be correct1 the ,shrovetide feast and the yearly ode in praise of ,brasenose ,ale may be attributed to the desire to keep green the memory of the famous brewhouse of the good ,king1 and the mighty liquor therein brewed for the royal table4 ,the merits of a celebrated ,oxford butler1 ,john ,dawson of ,christ ,church1 are commemorated in the following elegy3-- ,dawson1 the butler's dead4 ,although ,i think ,poets were ne'er infus'd with single drink ,i'll spend a farthing1 ,muse2 a wat'ry verse ,will serve the turn to cast upon his hearse4 ,if any cannot weep amongst us here1 ,take off his cap1 and so squeeze out a tear3 ,weep1 ,o ye ,barrels6 make waste more prodigal ,than when our ,beer was good1 that ,john may float ,to ,styx in beer1 and lift up ,charon's boat ,with wholsome waves2 and as the conduits ran1 ,with claret at the ,coronation1 ,so let your channels flow with single tiff1 ,for ,john1 ,i hope is crown'd3 take off your whiff1 ,ye men of rosemary1 and drink up all1 ,rememb'ring 'tis a ,butler's funeral2 ,had he been master of good double ,beer ,my ,life for his1 ,john ,dawson had been here4 ,for a hundred years or more the town of ,nottingham has been famous for its ales1 and the song 8,nottingham ,ale0 commemorates the many virtues of this justly celebrated 8barley-wine40 ,amongst others1 it has virtues ecclesiastical3-- ,ye bishops and deacons1 priests1 curates and vicars1 ,come taste1 and you'll certainly find it is true1 ,that ,nottingham ,ale is the best of all liquors1 ,and who understand the good creature like you8 ,it dispels every vapour1 saves pen1 ink1 and paper2 ,for when you're disposed in the pulpit to rail #afh ,it will open your throats1 you may preach without notes1 ,when inspired with full bumpers of ,nottingham ,ale4 ,this song1 which was a great favourite at the end of last century1 was composed by one ,gunthorpe1 a naval officer1 by way of payment for a cask of the 8particular10 received as a present from his brother1 who was a ,nottingham ,brewer4 ,to go further north1 ,newcastle1 besides its coals1 has long had the reputation for what1 if we are to believe the townsmen of the place1 is the best1 the stoutest1 the brightest 8,stingo0 that the heart of man can desire4 ,as every ,jack will have his ,jill1 so famous ale ever finds its appropriate verses4 ,the song ,newcastle ,beer1 of which a verse is1 given below1 extols the wonders wrought by ,english beer in general1 and by that of ,newcastle in particular3-- ',twas ,stingo like this made ,alcides so bold1 ,it brac'd up his nerves1 and enliven'd his powers2 ,and his mystical club1 that did wonders of old1 ,was nothing1 my lads1 but such liquor as ours4 ,the horrible crew ,that ,hercules slew1 ,were ,poverty--,calumny--,trouble--and ,fear2 ,such a club would you borrow1 ,to drive away sorrow1 ,apply for a jorum of ,newcastle ,beer4 ,warrington ,ale1 a song of last century1 describes in glowing terms the good ale of that ,lancashire town1 and the poet1 if he is to be believed1 is evidently a man of some experience in various drinks3-- ,d'ye mind me1 ,i once was a ,sailor1 ,and in different countries ,i've been2 ,if ,i lie1 may ,i go for a tailor1 ,but a thousand fine sights ,i have seen4 ,i've been crammed with good things like a wallet1 ,and ,i've guzzled more drink than a whale2 ,but the very best stuff to my palate ,is a glass of your ,warrington ,ale4 ,de ,foe in his ,tour through ,great ,britain eulogises the ,lancashire ale of the period4 ,in travelling through the northern parts of the county1 8though it was but about the middle of ,august1 and in some places the harvest hardly got in1 we saw the mountains covered with #afi snow1 and felt the cold very acute and piercing1 but we found1 as in all these northern countries1 the people had a happy way of mixing the warm and the cold together2 for the store of good ale which flows plentifully in the most mountainous parts of this country1 seems abundantly to make up for all the inclemencies of the season1 or difficulties of travelling40 ,a certain very strong ale called ,morocco is1 or was1 made at ,levens ,hall1 in the ,county of ,cumberland4 ,beef1 or other meat1 is an ingredient of this mighty brew1 but the exact receipt is kept a secret4 ,there is a tradition that the method of brewing ,morocco was brought by a ,crusader named ,howard from certain unknown regions beyond the seas1 and it is said that the receipt was buried during the ,parliamentary wars1 and was only unearthed many years afterwards4 ,it is always brought in an immense and curiously wrought glass to everyone who dines at ,levens for the first time1 and the visitor is expected on no account to refuse the glass1 but to take it and say1 8,to the health of the ,lady of ,levens40 ,to go a little further north1 the ales of ,edinburgh are justly celebrated1 old ,scotch ale being as favourite a beverage as old ,burton4 ,scotch brewers are great believers in malt and hops1 and at the present day brew excellent light ales1 as well as the mightier brew which has given them their world-wide reputation4 ,a curious ale is mentioned in the ,buik of ,chroniclis of ,scotland 7fifteenth century74 ,owing to a very severe winter in the reign of ,william the ,lion1 liquids of many kinds were frozen solid1 and ale was sold by weight3-- ,so furious ouir all part wes that frost ,of bestiall that thair wes mony lost2 ,the starkest aill of malt that mycht be browin1 ,thocht it war keipit neuir so clois and lowin1 ,it wald congeill and freis into hard yis4 ,the thing of all men thocht wes then most nys ,that this be weycht1 and nocht mesour1 wes sauld ,that tyme for drink as that my author told4 ,the wanderings of the ,penniless ,pilgrim took him to ,scotland1 and he wonders much at the powers of ale-suction shown by the natives4 8,the ,scots10 he says1 8doe allow almost as large measure of their miles as they doe of their drinke1 for an ,english gallon either of ale or wine is but their quart40 ,after rising from a repast1 he tells how 8the #agj servants of the house have enforced me into the seller or ,buttery1 where 7in the way of kindnesse7 they will make a man's belly like a sowse-tub1 and inforce mee to drinke as if they had a commission under the devil's great seale1 to murder men with drinking1 with such a deal of complimentary oratory as1 #8off with your lap1' #8wind up your bottome1' #8up with your toplash1' and many other eloquent phrases1 which ,tully and ,demosthenes never heard of2 that in conclusion ,i am persuaded three days fasting would have been more healthfull to mee1 then two hours feeding and swilling in that manner40 ,christopher ,north1 in his ,noctes ,ambrosian1 mentions some of the famous ,scotch ales of his day4 ,after alluding to the ales of ,berwick and of ,giles1 he says3-- 8,maitland and ,davison--again--has inspired my being with a new feeling1 for which no language ,i am acquainted with can supply an adequate name4 ,that feeling impels me to say these simple words on behalf of the ,spirit of ,ale in general--speaking through me1 its organ--,ale loquitur--8,if not suffered by ,fate to fix my abode in barrels of ,berwick or ,giles1 where ,i have long reigned alternate years1 in all my glory1 scarcely should ,i feel myself priviledged to blame my stars1 were ,i ordered for a while to sojourn in one of ,maitland--and ,davison40 ,a notice of ,scoth ales1 however short1 would be incomplete without some reference to the great ,scotch national poet1 who sometimes1 at any rate1 would seem to have owed his inspiration to the 8barley bree40 ,the song of ,burns1 ,o1 ,willie brew'd a peck o' maut1 is too well known to need repetition here4 ,who does not remember the chorus of this admirable chanson--boire3-- ,we are na fou1 we're no that fou1 ,but just a drappie in our e'e1 ,the cock may craw1 the day may daw1 ,and aye we'll taste the barley bree6 ,the occasion which the song was intended to celebrate is not so commonly known4 ,the 8three merry boys10 ,willie1 ,rob1 and ,alan were respectively ,william ,nicol1 of the ,high ,school1 ,edinburgh1 our poet1 and ,alan ,masterton1 who was a schoolmaster and musical amateur4 ,the place of meeting was a small farm named ,laggan1 belonging to ,nicol4 ,the inspiring ale was ,nicol's1 the song was ,burns'1 and the music was ,alan ,masterton's4 8,we had such a joyous meeting10 says ,burns1 8that ,mr4 ,masterton and ,i agreed1 each in our own way1 to celebrate the business40 #aga ,to pass to the ,principality1 ,welsh ales were in ,saxon times well known and highly esteemed4 ,in the laws of ,hywel ,dda two kinds of ale are mentioned--,bragawd#di1 which was paid as tribute to the ,king by a free township1 and ,cwrwf1 which was more common1 and was paid by the servile township in cases where the former kind ran short4 ,it may be hence gathered that in early times the highly-flavoured ,bragawd was held in greater estimation than the ,cwrwf2 yet the latter has out-lived the former1 and is still to be had in various parts of ,wales1 where it is consumed with great gusto by ,cambria's patriotic sons4 #di ,bragawd or ,bragot4 ,see p4 #cgi4 ,the neighbouring county of ,hereford1 now a great cider-drinking locality1 had in former times at least one town with a reputation for good ale4 8,lemster bread and ,weobley ale0 had passed into a proverb before the seventeenth century4 ,the saying seems1 however1 to have been affected chiefly by the inhabitants of the county1 who1 perhaps1 were not quite impartial4 ,ray1 writing in #agcg1 ventures to question the pre-eminence ascribed to the places mentioned4 ,for wheat he gives ,hesten1 in ,middlesex1 8and for ale ,derby town1 and ,northdown in the ,isle of ,thanet1 ,hull in ,yorkshire1 and ,sandbich in ,cheshire1 will scarcely give place to ,weobley40 ,herrick mentions this celebrated ,northdown ale in the lines3-- ,that while the wassaile bowle here ,with ,north-down ale doth troule here1 ,no sillable doth fall here1 ,to marre the mirth at all here4 ,norfolk was once celebrated for a strong ale1 bearing the euphonious name of ,norfolk ,nog4 ,it is mentioned in ,vanbrugh's ,journey to ,london1 8,here1 ,john ,moody10 says ,sir ,francis1 8get us a tankard of good hearty stuff presently40 8,sir10 is the reply1 8here's ,norfolk ,nog to be had next door40 ,swift also knew something of this brew1 and mentions that 8,walpole laid a quart of nog on it40 8,clamber-skull0 is probably a variety of this strong ,norfolk ale1 and earned its name from the rapidity with which it mounted to the heads of its votaries4 ,norfolk still holds a high place as an ale-producing county1 and the ales of ,great ,yarmouth and ,norwich are justly celebrated4 ,banbury produced a mighty ale in the seventeenth century1 if we may judge from the couplet in ,wit ,restored3-- ,banbury ale a half-yard pot ,the devil a tinker dares stand to 't4 #agb ,it must have been strong indeed1 for according to the old proverb-- ,cobblers and tinkers ,are your true ale drinkers4 ,dorsetshire1 amongst the southern counties1 has long been noted for a fine pale ale4 ,this is the liquor mentioned in ,english ,ale 7#agcg7 as-- ,bright amber priz'd by the luxurious town1 ,the pale hu'd ,dorchester---- ,its strength may be judged from the entry in ,john ,byrom's diary of about the same period 7#agbe73--8;,i found the effect of last night's drinking that foolish ,dorset1 which was pleasant enough1 but it did not agree with me at all1 for it made me very stupid all day40 ,these are the words of a man who has evidently loved not wisely but too well4 ,cox1 in his ,history of ,dorsetshire 7#agjj71 states that 8since by the ,french wars the coming of ,french wine is prohibited1 the people here have learned to brew the finest malt liquors in the kingdom1 so delicately clean and well tasted that the best judges 4 4 4 4 prefer it to the ales most in vogue1 as ,hull1 ,derby1 ,burton1 c40 ,great quantities of ,dorchester beer were consumed in ,london during the seventeenth and the early part of the eighteenth centuries1 but from that time the trade with ,london1 for some reason--probably the expense of transit--gradually fell away4 ,the excellence of the ,dorset beer depended in a great measure upon the fact that the water of the neighbourhood possessed peculiarly good qualities for brewing purposes1 and1 that advantage being of a permanent character1 there seems to be no reason why the ,dorchester ales of the present day should not regain throughout the country the position they had at the beginning of last century4 ,in the south and south-western portions of ,england they are held in very high esteem4 ,barnstaple was famous for its ales in the middle of the last century2 a writer in the ,gentleman's ,magazine of ,jan41 #agec1 says that they are as good as ,derby ales1 though not quite so famous4 ,mum1 a popular drink early in the last century1 was a strong ale brewed chiefly from wheat-malt with the addition of various aromatic herbs4 ,mum-houses were in existence in #affd1 for ,mr4 ,samuel ,pepys records that on a certain occasion he went 8with ,mr4 ,norbury near hand to the ,fleece1 a mum-house in ,leadenhall1 and there drank mum1 and by-and-by broke up40 ,a receipt of the date #afhb1 describes the brewing of mum as follows3-- #agc 8,to make a vessel of sixty-three gallons1 we are instructed that1 the water must be first boiled to the consumption of a third part1 then let it be brewed according to art with seven bushels of wheat-malt1 one bushel of oat-malt1 and one bushel of ground beans4 ,when the mixture begins to work1 the following ingredients are to be added3 three pounds of the inner rind of the fir2 one pound each of the tops of the fir and the birch2 three handfuls of ,carduus ,benedictus1 dried2 two handfuls of flowers of ,rosa solis2 of burnet1 betony1 marjoram1 avens1 pennyroyal1 flowers of elder1 and wild thyme1 one handful and a half each2 three ounces of bruised seeds of cardamum2 and one ounce of bruised bayberries4 ,subsequently ten new-laid eggs1 not cracked or broken1 are to be put into the hogshead1 which is then to be stopped close1 and not tapped for two years1 a sea voyage greatly improving the drink40 ,the origin of the word 8mum0 is somewhat disputed1 but the best derivation seems to be from the name of ,christopher ,mummer1 who is said to have been the first to brew it4 ,others assign to the word an origin from mummeln1 to mutter1 and this seems to have been ,pope's idea when he wrote the lines3-- ,the clamorous crowd is hushed with mugs of mum1 ,till all1 turned equal1 send a general hum4 ,others1 again1 find the derivation in the word mum1 meaning silence4 ,brunswick is always given as its birthplace1 and it was certainly known as early as the sixteenth century1 for in an old work1 ,de generibus ebriosorum et ebrietate vitanda 7#aeae71 8mommom sive mommum ,brunsvigen0 is mentioned as one of the drinks of ,germany4 ,an old book1 ,england's ,improvement by ,sea and ,land 7#afgg71 contains a remarkable proposition for bringing over the mum trade from ,brunswick1 and establishing it at ,stratford-on-,avon4 ,the old writer1 from whom the receipt before-quoted is taken1 lays considerable stress on the fact that 8the ingredients in its composition are very rare and choice simples1 there being scarcely any disease in nature against which some of them is not a sure specific10 the implication apparently being that the combination of these ingredients would largely increase their healing power4 ,in one of the #djj letters addressed by ,sir ,richard ,steele to his wife we find him writing under date ,december #fth1 #agag3--8;,i went to bed last night after taking only a little broth2 and all the day before a little tea and bread and butter1 with two glasses of mum and a piece of bread4 #agd at the ,house of ,commons4 ,temperance and your company1 as agreeable as you can make it1 will make life tolerable if not easy1 even with the gout40 ,a particular variety of this beverage was known as ,hamburgh mum1 and a catch in its praise of the early part of last century mentions it as hailing from that city3-- ,there's an odd sort of liquor ,new come from ,hamborough1 ',twill stick a whole wapentake ,thorough and thorough2 ',tis yellow1 and likewise ,as bitter as gall1 ,and as strong as six horses1 ,coach and all4 ,as ,i told you 'twill make you1 ,as drunk as a drum2 ,you'd fain know the name on't1 ,but for that my friend1 mum4 ,readers of ,sir ,walter ,scott will remember that ,mr4 ,oldbuck is described at breakfast as despising the modern slops of tea and coffee and substantially regaling himself 8more majorum1 with cold roast beef and mum40 ,an ,act of ,parliament1 which was passed annually during the greater part of the first half of this century1 prescribed certain duties on 8malt1 mum1 cyder and perry10 and a tale is told that when ,mr4 ,perry1 editor of the ,morning ,chronicle1 was indicted for libel1 he conducted his own case1 and by his able defence secured a verdict of 8,not guilty40 ,cobbett1 who was shortly afterwards tried on a similar charge1 also conducted his own defence1 but was convicted4 ,erskine remarked that ,cobbett had tried to be ,perry1 when he should have been mum4 ,in the eighteenth century patriotic sentiment was invoked to support the failing popularity of mum1 as may be gathered from the old work ,political ,merriment1 or ,truths to some ,tune 7#agad71 in which these lines occur3-- ,now1 now true ,protestants rejoice1 ,stand by your laws and ,king1 ,now you've proclaimed the nation's choice1 ,let traitorous rebels swing2 #age ,let ,royal ,george1 the ,papists scourge1 ,to ,england quickly come2 ,his health till then1 let honest men1 ,drink all in ,brunswick ,mum4 ,but all would not avail1 and the liquor is now as dead as ,christopher ,mummer1 the first inventor of it4 ,there is a tradition lingering in the northern parts of this island1 that the ,picts possessed the secret of making an ale from heather4 ,sir ,david ,smith1 in a ,,ms4 in the possession of the ,duke of ,northumberland1 mentions a large trough cut in the solid rock at ,kutchester1 near the ,roman wall4 8,the old peasants10 he says1 8have a tradition that the ,romans made a beverage somewhat like beer1 of the bells of heather1 and that this trough was used in the process of making it40 ,the tradition in ,caithness runs that three ,picts--an old blind man and his two sons--survived the rest of their race2 that these alone of all mankind possessed the secret of making heather ale2 that they guarded their secret with jealous care1 and that they were in consequence much persecuted by their conquerors4 ,at last the old ,pict1 in answer to the frequent importunities of his persecutors1 promised to tell the secret1 on condition that his two sons should be put to death4 ,this was done1 but the task was as far from accomplishment as ever1 and nothing could be got from the old man but the truly ,delphic words which are handed down in the couplet3-- ,search ,brockwin well out and well in1 ,and barm for heather crop you'll find within4 ,the secret died with him4 99 99 99 99 99 ,true or false1 this is the legend as related in the north1 and certain it is that a heather beer was made until quite recently in some parts of ,scotland and ,ireland4 ,the heather1 however1 is used as a flavouring rather than as an actual basis for making the drink4 ,the blossoms of the heather are carefully gathered and cleansed1 and are then placed in the bottom of vessels2 wort of the ordinary kind is allowed to drain through the blossoms1 and gains in its passage a peculiar and agreeable flavour1 which is well known to all who are familiar with heather honey4 ,pennant1 in his ,voyage to the ,hebrides1 mentions heather ale1 and says that the proportions were two-thirds of the plant to one of hops 7hops being sometimes added72 and ,mr4 ,weld1 in his ,two ,months in the ,highlands1 #agf says that 8although the art of brewing the ,pictish heather ale is lost1 old grouse shooters have tasted a beverage prepared by shepherds1 on the moors1 principally from heather flowers1 though honey or sugar1 to produce fermentation1 was added40 ,in some parts of ,ireland there is a tradition that the ,danes possessed the knowledge of making an intoxicating liquor from heather bells2 this drink the peasants speak of as beoir-lochlonnach 7i4e41 strong at sea71 an epithet by which the savage ,northmen were known to the ,celtic races4 ,it is possible that there is some connection between this heather ale and the ale formerly made by the ,swedes and flavoured with the ,myrica gale4 ,reference to this plant is made in a ,swedish law of the fifteenth century1 in which it is forbidden to gather the blossoms before a certain period4 ,the probability of this connection seems to be increased by the fact that in ,yorkshire1 a county which contains many descendants of the old ,northmen1 a beer is still made called 8gale beer10 and is flavoured with the blossoms of a species of heather found growing on the moors in that part of the country4 ,as late as the commencement of this century an ale flavoured with heather1 and differing little from the heather ale described1 was brewed in many parts of ,ireland4 ,the practice1 it is believed1 is now almost if not quite extinct4 ,irish moss ale is made in the following manner3--,take one ounce of ,irish moss1 one ounce of hops1 one ounce of ginger1 one ounce of ,spanish juice1 and one pound of sugar4 ,ten gallons of water are added and the mixture is boiled1 fermented1 and bottled4 ,the consideration of the name of this liquor and the actual constituents may possibly remind readers of the old tale of that very clever person who made soup out of a stone with the assistance of a few such trifles as beef1 vegetables1 and flavourings4 ,beer powders have been made1 from which a good and refreshing drink may be procured by the simple addition of water4 ,various substances and juices have been used from time to time to improve the flavour or strength of ale4 ,in ,wales berries of the ,mountain ,ash were once used1 and were said to greatly improve the flavour of the beverage4 ,the sap of the sycamore tree is mentioned by ,evelyn as being a most useful adjunct to the brewhouse2 he says that one bushel of malt with sycamore sap makes as good ale as four bushels with water alone4 ,the service tree1 the name of which is said to be a corruption of cerevisia1 was so called because in former times a kind of ale was brewed #agg from its berries4 ,evelyn says that ale and beer1 8brewed with these berries1 being ripe1 is an incomparable drink40 ,maize1 beet-root1 potatoes1 parsnips1 and other vegetables have each and all been used in the making of beer1 but it seems very doubtful whether any combination of ingredients will ever equal the time-honoured partnership of malt and hops4 ,a writer in the ,gentleman's ,magazine in #ageh says3 8,in many parts of the ,kingdom1 a beer is made of treacle--thus3 to eight quarts of boiling water put a pound of treacle1 a quarter of an ounce of ginger1 and two bay leaves4 ,boil these for a quarter of an hour1 then cool and work with yeast the same as beer40 ,from treacle we naturally come to sugar4 ,this chapter would be very incomplete without some mention of a kind of beer which is extensively brewed in ,england at the present day4 ,it is brewed sometimes wholly of sugar1 or sugar and malt4 ,occasionally rice is added4 ,looking at this sugar-beer from a chemist's point of view1 there is absolutely no fault to find with it2 it is perfectly pure and perfectly wholesome4 ,nor is it found to differ1 when analysed1 from beer made from malt4 ,there is certainly a popular prejudice against it1 which may arise in a great measure from the love of the people for the historic drink made from malt4 ,though analysts cannot distinguish between malt liquors and beers made from sugar1 there is usually a slight difference in flavour between them4 ,it is a noteworthy fact that most of the largest firms1 having extensive private businesses1 brew from malt and hops4 ,their success certainly indicates the direction in which the popular taste runs4 ,if ,englishmen prefer malt liquors1 it is surely to the interest of the brewers to give them the genuine barley-bree1 and not beer brewed from sugar1 however excellent it may be4 ,the use of malt by brewers is of no little importance to ,english grain-growers1 and is rightly looked upon by many as of national concern4 ,considerable misconception1 however1 may exist on this point1 for the brewing trade generally1 say that of late years ,english barley1 from climatic or other causes1 has not been found altogether suitable for brewing purposes1 rendering an admixture of foreign grain necessary4 ,all we can do is to express a hope that the brewers are somewhat mistaken in their estimate of ,english barley2 but that if they are correct1 ,england may in future years be accorded its due share of sunshine--that blessing of which ,dame ,nature has been somewhat niggardly of late1 so that malt made from ,english grain alone1 may again fill our mash-tuns4 #agh ,a distinction between beers arises1 in name at least1 from the vessels in which they are contained4 ,we have beer in casks and beer in bottles4 ,fuller1 in his ,worthies of ,england1 ascribes the invention of bottled beer to ,alexander ,newell1 ,dean of ,st4 ,paul's and a master of ,westminster ,school in the reign of ,queen ,mary4 ,the ,dean was a devoted angler4 8,but10 says old ,fuller1 8whilst ,newell was catching of fishes1 ,bishop ,bonner was catching of ,newell1 and would certainly have sent him to the shambles1 had not a good ,london merchant conveyed him away upon the seas40 ,newell was engaged in his favourite pursuit on the banks of the ,thames1 when such pressing notice of his danger reached him1 that he was obliged to take immediate flight4 ,on his return to ,england1 after ,mary's death1 he remembered1 when resuming his old amusement1 that on the day of his flight he had left his simple repast1 the liquor of which consisted of a bottle of beer1 in a safe place in the river bank2 there he sought it1 and1 as the quaint language of ,fuller informs us1 he 8found it no bottle1 but a gun1 such the sound at the opening thereof2 and this is believed 7casualty is the mother of more invention than industry7 the original of bottled ale in ,england40 ,if this be the true origin of bottled ale1 the use of it must have spread rapidly1 for we find it mentioned in many ,elizabethan writers4 ,in ,ben ,jonson's ,bartholomew fair1 ,ursula calls to the drawer to bring 8,a ,bottle of ,ale1 to quench me1 rascal10 and many other quotations could be given proving its use in those days4 ,of course ale must have been carried in bottles long before ,newell's time1 almost as early1 indeed1 as bottles came into use1 but the bottled ale referred to is that which has been so long in bottle as to have acquired a peculiar and delicious flavour combined with a certain briskness not found in draught ale4 ,the country which next to our own has for generations stood pre-eminent in matters of beer and brewing is ,germany2 there1 as here1 beer is the national drink1 though the character of the liquors is somewhat different4 ,the usual ,german beer is of an exceedingly light character1 and so perishable that it is impossible to preserve it for any length of time even in the coolest cellar2 four-and-twenty hours after a cask is tapped it must be emptied1 or what remains is spoilt4 ,nearly every considerable town in ,germany gives its name to the beer that is brewed there and consumed by the inhabitants4 ,the beer of each town has its own peculiarities1 and the worthy burghers are1 of course1 always ready to support both in deed and in word the superiority of their native drink4 ,there is1 for instance1 the ,jena beer1 famous in that university1 which is of a very peculiar character1 and is only made at #agi ,lichtenhain1 a little village adjoining the university town4 ,it is a species of white beer1 and is brewed from wheat malt4 ,the taste for this liquor must be one not easy of acquisition1 for the author of ,german ,life in ,saxony describes it as being much like 8cider and water1 with a dash of camomile tea added to it40 ,the students1 however1 assure you that the taste once acquired remains so strong through life that ,lichtenhainer is preferred to any other kind of beer4 ,so much has been written about student life and drinking customs that the subject will hardly bear repetition4 ,suffice it to say that in ,heidelberg1 ,jena1 and other large ,german universities there exist elaborate codes of drinking rules1 in which ,persons are classified in accordance with their seniority at the university1 and the beer-honours and labours which their position entail2 ,things are divided into ,principal things1 subordinate things and appurtenances2 ,principal things are specified as 8,lager-beer10 8black ,cstritzer-beer10 8,lichtenhainer-beer10 and all other white beers2 appurtenances are 8cans1 doctors 7a kind of measure71 popes 7another measure70 and other necessities of the drinking bouts4 ,the actual laws of the code are far too long and complicated to be more than referred to here4 ,lager beer is not unknown in ,england1 and is sold at restaurants and hotels in most of our large towns4 ,much of it is imported2 the rest comes from ,lager-beer brewers1 who have1 within the last few years1 started business in this country4 ,neither ,german nor ,anglo-,german beers appear to make much headway over here1 nor is this very surprising when we remember how far superior our own ales and beers are to any brewed in ,germany4 ,the chief difference between lager#ej and ,english beers is in the time occupied in the fermentation4 ,lager-beer brewers keep the wort at an exceedingly low temperature all through the process1 the result being that fermentation is delayed over several days4 ,lager beer simply means beer which can be kept in lagers or stores4 ,germany has from very early times maintained a large export trade in ,beer4 ,it has already been shown that in the fifteenth century large quantities were exported into ,scotland1 and another instance is to be found in ,rymer 7,h4 #e4 #a4 #bb71 where there is a record of an appeal made by the consuls of ,hamburgh to ,henry ,,vi4 ,the appeal states 8that certain of your ,magnificence's ,subjects and ,servants to wit ,michael ,schotte and ,molchun ,poerter of ,calais1 rulers or captains of a certain great ship of war specially fitted out1 did with their ,complices in that present year1 about the feast of ,st4 ,james the ,apostle1 hostilely seize1 detain1 and carry off at their pleasure two vessels laden with #ahj ,hamburg ale1 to the no small hurt and injury of our fellow townsmen40 ,they therefore pray that the ships may be restored to them and compensation made for the outrage40 #ej ,readers curious as to the technical details of the brewing of ,lager ,beer are referred to ,liebig's ,chemistry of ,agriculture 7,playfair74 ,roberts1 in his ,map of ,commerce 7#afch71 says of ,lubeck3 8,the place is famous for the beere made1 and hence transported into other regions1 and by some used medicinally for bruises of the body 4 4 4 though by them in use commonly both for their own drinke and food and rayment40 ,one of the characteristics of ,bavaria is the inordinate love of its inhabitants for their ,bavarian beer1 a love remarkable even amongst the beer-drinking ,germans4 ,in the towns the brewhouses are amongst the most important buildings1 and the traveller remarks the number of beer cellars1 whither the inhabitants resort to drink their favourite liquor4 ,brewing is the most flourishing trade1 and the produce of ,bavarian brewhouses is the best of continental beers4 ,one of its chief peculiarities is that1 although exposed to the air for lengthened periods1 it will not turn acid as other beers do4 ,this valuable quality is obtained for it by the peculiar management of the fermentation1 and has been already referred to4 ,very little space can be afforded even for a general description of ,german beers1 suffice it to say that their name is legion2 there is black beer1 white beer1 brown beer1 thin beer1 strong beer1 double beer1 bitter beer1 and countless local varieties of each and all these various liquors4 ,one more special variety may be noted1 and that is the strong ten-years-old ale known by the people of ,dortmund as 8,adam40 ,it is mentioned by ,corvin in ,an ,autobiography1 who relates that 8when ,king ,frederick ,william ,,iv4 of ,prussia visited ,dortmund a deputation of the magistrates waited upon him1 one of them bearing a salver with a large tankard filled with ,adam4 ,when the ,king asked what it was1 and heard that it was the celebrated beer1 he said #8,very welcome2 for it is extremely warm1' and drained off the contents of the tankard at a draught4 ,the members of the deputation1 who were better acquainted with old ,adam than the unsuspecting ,king1 smiled at each other1 for they knew what would be the result4 ,his ,majesty was unconscious for more than twenty-four hours40 ,the best beer brewed in ,norway is a more or less faithful imitation of the ,bavarian beer1 and travellers should be careful to ask for 8,baiersk l10 #aha as the ordinary 8barley-wine0 of the country is not described as being of a very choice character4 ,much the same may be said of ,swedish beer1 one variety of which1 however1 has obtained a place in history4 ,the beer of ,arboga was of so seductive a character that on the occasion of the invasion of ,hako and his ,norwegian and ,danish levies1 a large part of the army loitered behind in the various inns of the place1 quaffing the luscious beverage1 and their ,king1 in consequence1 lost the day4 ,russia has been behindhand in matters of brewing from the days when ,catherine had to send to ,burton for her private supply1 even until now2 but during the last few years the gentle ,mujik has been taking so kindly to his 8,bavarski ,peavah0 7,russo-,bavarian beer71 that a triumph apparently awaits ,john ,barleycorn in ,russia similar to that old victory of his over ,bacchus commemorated in the song of 8,yorkshire ,ale10 which finds place in the chapter devoted to ,ballads4 ,illustration #ahb ,illustration ,,chapter ,,viii4 8,come on1 you mad-cap4 ,i'll to the ,alehouse with you presently1 where1 for one shot of fivepence1 thou shalt have five thousand welcomes40 ,two ,gentlemen of ,verona4 ,act ii41 sc4 #e4 ,whoe'er has travelled life's dull round1 ,where'er his stages may have been1 ,may sigh to think he still has found ,the warmest welcome at an inn4 ,shenstone4 ,,ale ,,houses3 ,,their ,,origin4 -- ,,hospitality ,,in ,,medi,,val ,,times4 -- ,,old ,,london ,,inns ,,and ,,taverns4 -- ,,anecdotes ,,of ,,inns ,,and ,,inn ,,keepers4 -- ,,curious ,,signs4 -- ,,sign-,,board ,,and ,,ale-,,house ,,verses4 -- ,,sign-,,board ,,artists4 -- ,,ale-,,house ,,songs ,,and ,,catches4 8,no1 ,sir20 said ,dr4 ,johnson1 8there is nothing which has yet been contrived by man1 by which so much happiness is produced1 as by a good tavern or inn40 ,the argument by which the great ,doctor leads up to this oracular deliverance is as follows3--8,there is no private house in which people can enjoy themselves so well as in a capital tavern4 ,let there be ever so great plenty of good things1 ever so much grandeur1 ever so much elegance1 and ever so much desire that everybody should be easy1 in the nature of things it cannot be2 there must always be some degree of care and anxiety4 ,the master of the house is anxious to entertain his guests1 the guests are anxious to be agreeable to him1 and no man but a very impudent dog indeed1 can as freely command what is in another #ahc man's house as if it were his own2 whereas1 at a tavern there is a general freedom from anxiety4 ,you are sure you are welcome1 and the more noise you make1 the more trouble you give1 the more good things you call for1 the welcomer you are4 ,no servant will attend you with the alacrity which waiters do who are incited by the prospect of an immediate reward in proportion as they please40 ,the ,doctor seems most conscientiously to have made his practice square with his preaching4 ,till the end of his life1 although generally an abstemious man1 he was regular in his attendance at the various taverns he patronised1 and his burly figure was as well known amongst the frequenters of the inns and taverns of ,fleet ,street1 as that of the most notorious roysterer of the time4 ,in his day the tavern--the ,london tavern especially--attained the highest point of social importance which it has ever reached2 and many of those convivial and social functions1 now for the most part discharged by the clubs and by private hospitality1 were then considered to fell within its special province4 ,during the last century the tavern gathered around its hospitable hearth those groups of savants and wits1 which have been the starting points of many a scientific and literary society of the present day4 ,it is1 of course1 impossible for us in the space we are able to devote to the history of public hospitality in ,england1 to do more than give a very slight sketch of the subject4 ,most of the functions of the modern inn were in early days discharged by the hospitality of the ,church4 ,in the laws and constitutions of the various religious bodies are to be found directions to the clergy to observe the rites of hospitality1 and a law of ,ecgbright commands bishops and priests to have a house for the entertainment of strangers1 not far from the church4 ,the house here referred to would probably be the ,almonry1 where strangers and travellers1 too poor or lowly to be entertained within the walls of the monastery1 were fed and tended4 ,persons of higher rank were received into the monastery1 which was always furnished with a hospitium1 or guest hall1 for the entertainment of visitors and travellers4 ,the importance of this monastic function may be judged from the size of some of the guest halls belonging to the larger religious bodies3 one at ,canterbury was a hundred and fifty feet long1 and forty feet wide4 ,visitors on their arrival at a monastery were met by the hosteler in the parletory1 and after receiving greeting were conducted to the guest hall1 where they were refreshed with meat and drink according to their #ahd rank and importance4 ,a small present was usually given at the gate on arrival1 but1 save for that1 the entertainment seems to have been free4 ,the guests were allowed to stay on these terms for two days and two nights2 but on the third day after dinner1 unless prevented by sickness or other just cause1 they were to depart in peace4 ,many constitutions of religious houses enjoin that hospitality should be shown to all comers1 clerical or lay1 and we are told that in some cases this liberality was much abused4 ,the heirs of persons who had made large donations to religious houses1 when they could not injure the monks by means of law1 did their best to ruin them by constant visits with large retinues1 and thus literally eat them out of house and home2 and to such lengths did this custom extend that1 in the reign of ,edward ,i41 it was found necessary to pass certain laws restraining such abuses4 ,by the rules of the ,benedictine order1 an officer was appointed1 called the terrer1 whose duty it was to see that the guest-chambers were kept clean4 ,he was always to have on hand two tuns of wine for the entertainment of strangers1 and also provender for their horses2 and four yeomen were appointed to attend upon strangers1 that nothing might be wanting to pilgrims and travellers of whatever rank they might be4 ,in the middle ages the denial of hospitality was looked upon as disgraceful1 and an ancient anecdote is related of the revenge taken by a travelling minstrel upon his host1 on account of the meagre nature of the entertainment afforded4 ,the minstrel sought a night's food and lodging at an ,abbey1 when the abbot1 a parsimonious man1 happened to be absent4 ,the monk in attendance at the hospitium1 acting upon instructions1 gave the poor minstrel nothing but black bread and water and a bed of straw4 ,next morning the traveller proceeded on his way1 and meeting the abbot in the course of the journey1 took occasion to thank him in good set phrase for the princely hospitality dispensed at his house1 enlarging upon the choice viands and costly presents he had received4 ,the abbot hastened home in great rage1 and caused the monk1 whom he believed to be guilty of the lavish waste1 to be flogged and dismissed from his office4 ,one of the few instances of the public hospitality of the religious orders surviving down to our own days is to be found at the ,hospital of ,saint ,cross1 ,winchester1 where whoever knocks at the porter's lodge is entitled to a slice of bread and a mug of small beer--very small1 if rumour lies not4 ,side by side with this monastic hospitality were the shelter and #ahe entertainment afforded at the houses of the nobility and gentry when their owners were absent2 and when they were at home1 the practice of keeping open house seems to have been by no means rare4 ,the traveller of gentle blood would be entertained at the lord's table1 while the servant1 the travelling mechanic1 the disbanded soldier1 and other wanderers of lowly rank1 would find rest and refreshment in the keep4 ,in process of time1 however1 this custom of promiscuous entertainment seems to have fallen into disuse2 the accommodation before provided by the castle or manor house being now afforded by a separate inn set up close by1 and frequently kept by some worn-out servant of the castle1 who would naturally bear upon his sign the arms of the dominant family1 and would1 for the purpose of entertaining travellers1 be regarded as representing the lord4 ,it is possible that to this custom1 or the preceding one1 may be attributed the use of the expression landlord1 as signifying the host of an inn4 ,in towns1 those of the citizens who had large enough houses frequently made a practice of receiving guests1 and taking money for their pains1 thus adding the profession of a host to their other callings4 ,persons who practised this letting of lodgings were called herbergeors 7i4e41 harbourers71 to distinguish them from the hostelers or innkeepers2 and a further extension of the use of coats-of-arms for signs was thus brought about1 the herbergeor frequently taking as his sign the arms of his most frequent or most influential guest4 ,the ,liber ,albus mentions both classes of entertainers1 and records that by the regulations of the ,city of ,london herbergeours and hostelers must be freemen of the ,city1 and persons of a strange land desirous of being herbergeour or hosteler within the ,city must dwell in the heart of the ,city and not upon the waterside of the ,thames4 ,although hospitality was so freely exercised by the monks and great landowners1 it must not be imagined that inns were unknown4 ,even in ,saxon days1 to go no further back1 inns and village alehouses seem to have existed4 ,bracton tells us of a regulation of ,edward the ,confessor that if any man lay a third night in an inn he was called a third-night-awn-hinde1 that is to say1 he was looked upon in the same light as a servant of the house would be1 and the host was answerable for him if he committed any offence--a curious illustration of that local and vicarious responsibility for crime which was so prominent a feature of our ancient polity4 ,in much later times a similar regulation is to be found applying to 8hostelers0 in the ,city of ,london4 ,the ,liber ,albus gives1 as #ahf one of the ,city rules1 that no hosteler shall harbour a man beyond a day and a night1 if he be not willing to produce such person to stand his trial1 and in case such a person shall commit an offence1 and absent himself1 his host shall answer for him4 ,goldsmith's description of a village inn is probably as applicable to the old ,saxon eala-hus of a thousand years ago as it was to the alehouse of his own time1 and as it is to many in the present day3-- ,low lies that house where nut-brown draughts inspired1 ,where grey-beard mirth and smiling toil retired2 ,where village statesmen talked with looks profound1 ,and news1 much older than the ,ale1 went round4 ,obscure it sinks1 nor shall it more impart ,an hour's importance to a poor man's heart1 and the following descriptive verses of ,leigh ,hunt1 entitled ,the ,village ,alehouse1 a ,picture in ,detail1 with but slight alterations1 would serve equally as well3-- ,dear ramblers all--an ,alehouse sign ,you'll own as good a sight as greets ye2 ,when summer's long1 long mornings shine1 ,where leisure reigns1 and #8,all hail' meets ye4 ,there rests the waggon in its track1-- ,a corn bag round each horse's nose is2 ,there comes the miller and his sack3 ,and there at ease the beggar dozes4 ,there limps the ostler with his pails1 ,and there the landlord stalks inspector2 ,two farmers there discuss their sales1 ,and drain by turns one goblet's nectar4 ,hay ricks are near and orchard fruit2 ,the cock's shrill crow and flapping wing2 ,the low contented neigh of brute2 ,the pipe's perfume1 and tankard's ding4 ,the fiddle's scrape1--the milking cows1-- ,the snapping cork1--the roaring joke3-- ,the birds by thousands in the boughs3-- ,the creaking wheel and whip's loud stroke4 #ahg ,sunshine strews all the kitchen floor1 ,reposes on the home-field crop-- ,blisters the ,doctor's fine new door1 ,and kisses copse and chimney top4 ,clouds fleecy dot the blue immense-- ,farm-houses--cities--vales--and streams-- ,and seats and parks and forests dense1 ,sleep stretch'd afar1 in floods of beams4 ,an inn or an alehouse1 however1 was at the time of the ,conquest and for long after1 far to seek4 ,in the reign of ,edward ,i4 there were only three taverns in ,london1 one in ,chepe1 one in ,wallbrooke1 and one in ,lombard ,street1 and in country districts the proportion to the population would doubtless be as small1 the want being supplied in the manner before alluded to4 ,even in the year #aeeb the following list of the numbers of taverns allowed for the chief towns in ,england1 no doubt shows a much smaller proportion to population than is seen at the present day4 ,there were to be allowed forty in ,london1 eight in ,york1 four in ,norwich1 three in ,westminster1 six in ,bristol1 four in ,hull1 three in ,shrewsbury1 four in ,exeter1 three in ,salisbury1 four in ,gloucester1 four in ,chester1 three in ,hereford1 three in ,worcester1 three in ,oxford1 four in ,cambridge1 three in ,southampton1 four in ,canterbury1 three in ,ipswich1 three in ,winchester1 three in ,colchester1 and four in ,newcastle-upon-,tyne4 ,illustration3 ,a ,medival ,innkeeper4 ,even parsonages seem to have been licensed as alehouses in very out-of-the-way districts4 ,a survival of this custom1 almost to our own times1 is mentioned by ,southey1 who states that the parsonage house of ,langdale was licensed as an alehouse1 because it was so poor a living that the curate could not have otherwise supported himself4 ,the regulation previously mentioned as to the number of taverns1 seems never to have been formally repealed2 it could1 however1 only have been very slackly enforced1 and doubtless soon became a dead letter4 ,it was not1 however1 altogether forgotten1 for in a letter from #ahh the ,lords in ,council1 in reply to a petition presented in the year #afah by the parishioners of ,st4 ,mildred1 in ,london1 it is stated that 8whereas the number of taverns had been limited to forty1 and their places assigned10 there were then no less than four hundred in the ,city alone4 ,the ,lord ,mayor and ,common ,council are therefore directed to put some restraint on this 8enormous liberty of setting up taverns40 ,the latter part of the sixteenth and the first half of the seventeenth centuries seem to have been remarkable for a great excess of alehouses1 having regard to the wants of the population at the time4 ,in #aeia a report of the ,queen's ,council on the state of ,lancashire and ,cheshire states that the streets and alehouses are so crowded during service time that there was none in church but the curate and his clerk2 that alehouses were innumerable1 and that great abuses prevailed4 ,in #afci the ,justices of ,middlesex made presentment to the ,council that there were twenty-four alehouses in ,covent ,garden1 and that most of their keepers were chandlers who had got licensed surreptitiously at general meetings1 and that the said ,justices had reduced the number of the alehouses to four4 ,old ,john ,taylor1 in ,drinke and ,welcome1 gives evidence of the excessive facilities for drinking afforded at the fairs then so common4 8,concerning the fructifying or fruitfulnesse of ale10 he says in his quaint way1 8it is almost incredible1 for twice every yeere there is a ,faire at a small ,towne called ,kimbolton or ,kimolton in ,northamptonshire 7as ,i take it71 in which towne there are but thirty-eight ,houses1 which at the ,faire time are encreased to thirty-nine ,alehouses1 for an old woman and her daughter doe in those dayes divide there one house into two1 such is the operation and encreasing power of our ,english ,ale40 ,decker1 writing in #afcb1 says that 8a whole street is in some places but a continuous alehouse1 not a shop to be seen between red lattice and red lattice40 ,this mention of the red lattice recalls the custom now extinct1 but once well nigh universal1 for the alehouses to have open windows to enable the guests to enjoy the fresh air4 ,privacy was ensured by a trellis or lattice1 which was fixed in front of the window1 and prevented a passer-by from seeing in1 though those within could see out4 ,whether or not the red colour of the lattices was intended to harmonise with the noses of the frequenters may be considered a moot point2 the page seems to have intended some such insinuation when he says of ,bardolph1 8,he called me even now1 my ,lord1 through a red lattice1 and ,i could see no part of his face from the window2 at last ,i spied his eyes and methought he had made two holes in the ale-wife's new petticoat1 and peeped through40 #ahi ,illustration3 ,a merry new ,ballad1 bothe pleaant and weet1 ,in praie of a ,blackmith1 which is very meet4 ,an ,ale-,houe ,lattice4 8,of all the trades that ever ,i ee ,there is none which the ,blackmith compared may be40 ,roxburghe ,ballads4 #aij ,so usual did the red lattice become that it was regarded as a distinctive mark1 as shown in ,marston's ,antonio and ,mellida1 in which occurs the passage1 8,as well known by my wit as an alehouse by a red lattice40 ,green lattices were occasionally used1 and the memory of them still survives in the sign of ,the ,green ,lettuce4 ,another feature peculiar to old country inns was the ale-bench1 a seat in front of the house where the thirsty wayfarer might rest and take his modest quencher4 ,an ancient institution was the ale-bench4 ,it is mentioned in the ,anglo-,saxon poem ,beowulf and in the sixteenth century seems to have been considered the appropriate resting place of sententious and argumentative persons4 ,one of the old ,homilies 7#aedg7 alludes to those 8which upon the ale-benches delight to set forth certain questions40 ,another institution of the old alehouse1 corresponding in fact to the modern bar1 was called the ale-stond1 an allusion to which is to be found in ,marprelate's ,epistle3 8,therefore at length ,sir ,jefferie bethought him of a feat whereby he might both visit the ale-stond and also kepe his othe40 ,in the sixteenth century the keeper of an alehouse was fancifully called an ale-draper4 ,chettle1 in his ,kind-,hearts' ,dreame 7#aeib71 has the following3--8,i came up to ,london and fell to be some tapster1 hostler1 or chamberlaine in an inn4 ,well1 ,i got me a wife2 with her a little money2 when we are married seeke a house we must2 no other occupation have ,i but an ale-draper40 ,the ,discoverie of the ,knights of the ,poste 7#aeig7 also contains an allusion to the phrase3--8#8,so that nowe hee hath left brokery1 and is become a draper4' #8,a draper6' quoth ,freeman1 #8what draper8 of woollin or of linnen8' #8,no1' qd he1 #8an ale-draper1 wherein he hath more skil then in the other4'0 ,innkeepers in ,whitby are denominated ale-drapers in the parish registers of last century4 ,in those good old days before the introduction of mail-coaches1 to say nothing of the more modern means of transit1 hospitality to the traveller was the rule in country districts4 ,the ,water ,poet tells in his ,pennilesse ,pilgrimage that he travelled 8on foot from ,london to ,edinburgh in ,scotland1 not carrying money to or fro1 neither begging1 borrowing or asking meat40 ,however1 from what he goes on to relate1 this description of his journey needs to be accepted with some slight reservation1 for he gives a comical recital of how 8from ,stamford we rode the next day to ,huntingdon1 where we lodged at the ,post-master's house at the signe of the ,crowne40 ,the landlord appears1 and 8very #aia bountifully called for three quarts of wine and sugar and some jugges of beere4 ,he did drink and begin healths like a horse-leach1 and swallowed downe his cuppes without feeling1 as if he had had the dropsie1 or nine pound of spunge in his maw4 ,in a word1 as he is a ,poste1 he dranke poste1 striving and calling by all means to make the reckoning great1 or to make us men of great reckoning4 ,but in his payment he was tyred like a jade1 leaving the gentleman that was with me to discharge the terrible shott1 or else one of my horses must have laine in pawne for his superfluous calling and unmannerly intrusion40 ,the opinion of the great ,doctor already quoted was not confined either to himself or to his times4 ,bishop ,earle1 writing in the seventeenth century of those social functions of the tavern or alehouse1 now in a great measure discharged by the ,clubs1 sums up his description as follows3--8,to give you the total reckoning of it1 it is the busy man's recreation1 the idle man's business1 the melancholy man's sanctuary1 the stranger's welcome1 the inns of court man's entertainment1 the scholar's kindness1 and the citizens' courtesy4 ,it is the study of sparkling wits1 and a cup of comedy their book2 whence we leave them40 ,old ,izaak ,walton had a lively appreciation of the comforts of an inn and the virtues of ,english ale4 ,piscator1 of ,the ,complete ,angler1 thus addresses the hostess of an inn3 8,come1 hostess1 dress it 7a trout7 presently1 and get us what other meat the house will afford1 and give us some of your best barley wine1 the good liquor that our honest forefathers did use to drink of2 the drink which preserved their health1 and made them live so long and do so many good deeds40 ,the quaint old author of ,the ,haven of ,health 7#aehd7 gives his readers directions how to find out the best alehouse in a strange town1 and also some prudent maxims as to the behaviour there3--8,but if you come as a stranger to any towne1 and would faine know where the best ale is1 you neede do no more than marke where the greatest noyse is of good fellows1 as they call them1 and the greatest repaire of beggars4 ,but withall take good heed that malt bee not above wheat before you part4 ,for it is worse to be drunke of ,ale than wine1 and the drunkenness indureth longer3 by reason that the fumes and vapours of ale that ascend to the head1 are more grosse1 and therefore cannot be so soone resolved as those that rise up of wine40 ,malvolio is alluding to the custom of alehouse singing when he says3 8,do you make an alehouse of my lady's house1 that ye squeak out your cozier's catches without any mitigation or remorse of voice80 ,the ,english custom of wives following their husbands to the ale #aib house is mentioned with reprehension by ,gascoigne in ,a ,delicate ,diet for ,daintie-mouthed ,droonkards 7#aegf74 8,what woman10 he exclaims1 87even among the droonken ,almaines71 is suffered to follow her husband into the ,alehouse or ,beerhouse80 ,however1 if we are to believe the author of the following verses1 the practice does not always seem to have been unfavourable to temperance3-- ,,bacchanalian ,,joys ,,defeated4 ,while ,i'm at the ,tavern quaffing1 ,well disposed for t'other quart1 ,come's my wife to spoil my laughing1 ,telling me 'tis time to part3 ,words ,i knew1 were unavailing1 ,yet ,i sternly answered1 no6 ',till from motives more prevailing1 ,sitting down she treads my toe3 ,such kind tokens to my thinking1 ,most emphatically prove ,that the joys that flow from drinking1 ,are averse to those of love4 ,farewell friends and t'other bottle1 ,since ,i can no longer stay1 ,love more learn'd than ,aristotle1 ,has1 to move me1 found the way4 ,many a tale is told of wordy passages of arms between travellers and innkeepers4 ,dame ,halders1 of ,norwich1 was a stingy ale-wife4 ,upon one occasion a passing pedlar begged of her a mug of water4 8,you had better10 said she1 8have a jug of my home-brewed40 ,the pedlar complied and paid for it1 remarking after tasting it that it was a very satisfying tipple4 8,yes10 rejoined the dame1 pleased at the supposed compliment uttered in the hearing of her country customers1 8it's my own brewing--nothing but malt and hops40 8,indeed10 exclaimed the pedlar2 8what6--no water80 8,o yes10 cried the dame1 8,i forgot the water40 8,no10 quickly added the pedlar1 8,i'm d--d if you did40 8,i say10 a wag asked of a publican1 8if we were to have a ,coroner's ,inquest on your beer1 what verdict should we arrive at80 8,give it up10 said ,boniface4 8,found drowned10 was the cruel reply4 8,have you a pair of steps80 asked a customer of an ale-wife1 who was notorious for giving short measure4 8,yes2 what do you want it for80 #aic inquired the woman4 8,to go down and get at this ale10 was the reply pointing to the half-filled pewter4 ,it is not1 however1 always the host or the ale-wife who is made the object of these shafts of wit2 as often as not it is ,boniface who assumes the character of the joker4 ,in illustration of his jests1 the following extract is taken from the ,mirror3 8,about half a century ago1 when it was more the fashion to drink ale at ,oxford than it is at present1 a humorous fellow1 of punning memory1 established an alehouse near the pound1 and wrote over his door1 #8,ale sold by the pound4' ,as his ale was as good as his jokes1 the ,oxonians resorted to his house in great numbers1 and sometimes staid there beyond the college hours4 ,this was made a matter of complaint to the ,vice-,chancellor1 who was directed to take away his licence by one of the ,proctors of the ,university4 ,boniface was summoned to attend1 and when he came into the ,vice-,chancellor's presence he began hawking and spitting about the room2 this the ,chancellor observed1 and asked what he meant by it4 #8,please your worship1' said he1 #8,i came here on purpose to clear myself4' ,the ,vice-,chancellor imagined that he actually weighed his ale and sold it by the pound4 #8,is that true8' #8,no1 an't please your worship1' replied the wit4 #8,how do you1 then8' said the ,chancellor4 #8,very well1 ,i thank you1 sir1' replied he2 #8how do you do8' ,the ,chancellor laughed1 and said1 #8,get away for a rascal2 ,i'll say no more to you4' ,the fellow departed1 and crossing the quadrangle met the ,proctor who laid the information4 #8,sir1' said he1 #8the ,chancellor wants to speak to you1' and returned with him4 #8,here1 sir1' said he when he came into the ,chancellor's presence1 #8you sent me for a rascal1 and ,i've brought you the greatest that ,i know of4'0 ,there is a good tale told of a certain innkeeper1 who1 had he received the advantages of an university education1 would certainly have taken high mathematical honours4 ,to him came a traveller1 who demanded a tankard of treble ,x4 ,thereupon the innkeeper1 having hesitated a moment1 left the tap-room1 to reappear shortly afterwards with a foam-crowned pewter4 ,the traveller tasted1 and exclaimed angrily1 8,this is not what ,i ordered60 8,it is10 shortly replied ,boniface2 and retired to avoid discussion4 ,the traveller was a connoisseur in beer1 and knew he had been given table ale4 ,calling the potboy1 he questioned him 8,no1 master kept no strong beer10 said the lad2 8nothing more than double ,x40 ,the traveller then summoned the landlord1 and the meeting was stormy4 ,the traveller asserted1 the host denied1 and came off finally triumphant with1 8,i know ,i don't keep treble ,x1 #aid but ,i can make it4 ,i just gave you half double ,x and t'other half single ,x1 and if two and one don't make three1 my name's not ,boniface40 ,illustration3 ,cornelius ,caton4 ,the very grotesque figure which adorns this page represents ,cornelius ,caton1 landlord of the 8,white ,lion10 ,richmond1 about the middle of last century4 ,beginning life as a potboy1 he rose through various stages till he became landlord of the house4 ,he was almost a dwarf1 and his whimsical character and unfailing good humour brought him much custom4 ,the illustration is taken from a very rare print4 ,the portrait of an old ,cumberland landlord of the hard-drinking days is drawn in the following ballad1 which was written by some wandering bard1 in the album kept at the 8,rising ,sun10 ,pooley ,bridge3-- #aie ,will ,russell was a landlord bold1 ,a noble wight was he1 ,right fond of quips and merry cranks1 ,and every kind of glee4 ,full five and twenty years agone1 ,he came to ,pooley ,height1 ,and there he kept the ,rising ,sun1 ,and drunk was every night4 ,no lord1 nor squire1 nor serving man1 ,in all the country round1 ,but lov'd to call in at the ,sun1 ,wherever he was bound4 ,to hold a crack with noble ,will1 ,and take a cheerful cup ,of brandy1 or of ,penrith ale1 ,or pop1 right bouncing up4 ,but now poor ,will lies sleeping here1 ,without his hat or stick1 ,no longer rules the ,rising ,sun1 ,as he did well when quick4 ,will's honest heart could ne'er refuse ,to drink with ev'ry brother3 ,then let us not his name abuse-- ,we'll ne'er see sic another4 ,but let us hope the gods above1 ,right minded of his merits1 ,have given him a gentle shove ,into the land of spirits4 ',tis then his talents will expand1 ,and make a noble figure1 ,in tossing off a brimming glass1 ,to make his belly bigger4 ,adieu1 brave landlord1 may thy portly ghost ,be ever ready at its heavenly post2 ,and may thy proud posterity e'er be ,landlords at ,pooley to eternity4 #aif ,rather profane the last verse2 but1 perhaps1 not more so than the epitaph on one ,matilda ,brown3-- ,here lies the body of ,matilda ,brown1 ,who while alive was hostess of the ,crown4 ,her son-in-law keeps on the business still1 ,patient1 resigned to the ,eternal ,will4 ,at ,king's ,stanley1 in ,gloucestershire1 is the following epitaph to another hostess1 one ,ann ,collins3-- ',twas as she tript from cask to cask1 ,in at a bung-hole quickly fell1 ,suffocation was her task1 ,she had no time to say farewell4 ,illustration3 ,the ,george ,inn1 ,salisbury4 ,the ancient ,george ,inn1 ,salisbury1 depicted in our illustration1 was in the vicinity of the ,royal residence at ,clarendon1 and four hundred years ago was one of the best and most commodious inns in the west of ,england4 ,in the records of the ,corporation of the town a lease of this house is found1 dated ,april #ith1 #adgc2 it is made to one ,john ,gryme1 a saddler1 and contains a description of the rooms of the inn1 and an inventory of furniture4 ,the house contained at that date #aig thirteen guest chambers1 viz43--,the ,principal ,chamber1 the ,earl's ,chamber1 the ,pantry adjoining1 the ,oxford ,chamber1 the ,abingdon ,chamber1 the ,squire's ,chamber1 the ,lombard's ,chamber1 the ,garret1 the ,george1 the ,clarendon1 the ,understent1 the ,fitzwaryn1 and the ,london ,chamber4 ,illustration3 ,the ,falcon ,inn1 ,chester4 ,there was also the taberna or wine-cellar1 the ,buttery1 the ,tap ,house1 the ,kitchen1 the ,hostry1 and the ,parlour4 ,the furniture1 of which a full inventory is appended1 seems to have been of a very homely type4 ,no difference seems to have been made between the living and the sleeping rooms2 each room was supplied with beds1 the relative importance of which was measured by the number of planks they contained1 and the only other articles of furniture were tables on tressels for dining and forms of oak and beech for the guests to sit at table4 ,the ,principal room was distinguished by the possession of a cupboard1 and each room contained three beds4 ,another fine old inn is the ,falcon of ,chester4 ,it is notable as a good example of old half-timbered work4 #aih ,malone1 in his ,supplement to ,shakspere1 mentions the fact that many of our old plays were acted in the yards of ,carriers' ,inns1 in which1 he says1 8in the beginning of ,queen ,elizabeth's reign1 the comedians1 who then first united themselves in companies1 erected an occasional stage4 ,the form of these temporary play-houses seems to be preserved in our modern theatre4 ,the galleries are in both ranged over each other1 on three sides of the building4 ,the small rooms under the lowest of these galleries answer to our present boxes2 and it is observable that these1 even in theatres which were built in a subsequent period1 expressly for dramatic exhibitions1 still retained their old name1 and are frequently called rooms by our ancient writers4 ,the yard bears a sufficient resemblance to the pit1 as at present in use4 ,we may suppose the stage to have been raised in this area1 on the fourth side1 with its back to the gateway of the inn1 at which the money for admission was taken4 ,here1 in the middle of the ,globe1 and1 ,i suppose1 of the other public theatres in the time of ,shakespeare1 there was an open yard or area1 where the common people stood to see the exhibition1 from which circumstances they are called groundlings1 and by ,ben ,jonson1 #8the understanding gentlemen of the ground4'0 ,at the beginning of the present century the ,angel at ,islington was a typical1 old-fashioned country inn1 long and low1 with deep overhanging eaves1 and a central yard surrounded by double galleries1 open to the air and communicating with the bedrooms4 ,travellers approaching ,london from the north would frequently remain at the ,angel the night1 rather than venture into ,london by dark along a road dangerous alike from its ruts and its footpads4 ,persons whose business took them to ,islington after dark usually waited at an avenue1 which then existed on the site of ,john ,street1 until a sufficient number of them had assembled to go on in safety to their destination1 whither they were escorted by an armed patrol appointed for that purpose4 ,what a striking picture of the insecurity of life and limb in districts close to the metropolis not one hundred years ago6 ,a curious custom1 known as the ,highgate ,oath1 held its ground for many a long year1 and has only fallen into disuse within living memory4 ,when a traveller passed through ,highgate towards ,london for the first time he was brought before a pair of horns at one of the taverns1 and there a mock oath was administered to him1 to the effect that he would never drink small beer when he could get strong1 unless he liked it better2 that1 with a similar saving clause1 he would never drink gruel when he could command turtle soup2 nor make love to the maid1 when #aii he could court the mistress1 unless he preferred the maid2 with much more to the same effect4 ,in the old coaching days scarcely a coach passed through ,highgate without some of its occupants being initiated and we may well imagine that copious streams of ale would flow to 8wet0 the time-honoured custom4 ,it is to this custom that ,byron makes allusion in ,childe ,harold3-- 4 4 many to the steep of ,highgate hie2 ,ask ye1 ,botian shades1 the reason why8 ',tis to the worship of the solemn horn1 ,grasped in the holy hand of ,mystery1 ,in whose dread name both men and maids are sworn1 ,and consecrate the oath with draught and dance till morn4 ,the privileges belonging to a freeman of ,highgate who had taken the oath are described as follows3--8,if at any time you are going through ,highgate1 and want to rest yourself1 and you see a pig lying in the ditch1 you have liberty to kick her out and take her place2 but if you see three lying together1 you must only kick out the middle one and lie between the two others40 ,the custom is said to have been originated by a club of graziers who were wont to tarry at ,highgate on their way to ,london1 and who1 in order to keep their company select1 would admit none to their society before he had gone through a process of initiation1 which consisted of kissing between the horns1 one of their oxen brought to the door for the purpose4 ,interesting as are many of our old country inns and village ale-houses1 and numberless the tales that might be told of the doings within their time-stained walls2 8of quips and cranks and wanton wiles02 of the village feast1 the village minstrelsy1 the 8jocund rebeck's0 sound to ears long since deaf2 the song2 the toast pledged by lips long since cold--interesting as all these are1 it is when we come to the history of our old ,london taverns1 fragmentary though it be1 that we really find ourselves face to face with the clearest pictures of the social life and customs of the past4 ,it is here that memories gather thickest of the ,peals of genial clamour sent ,from many a tavern door1 ,with twisted quirks and happy hits1 ,from misty men of letters2 ,the tavern hours of mighty wits-- ,thine elders and thy betters4 #bjj ,in the history of the old ,london taverns may be seen the habits1 the customs1 and the amusements of by-gone generations of ,londoners4 ,innumerable pictures of society1 and modes of life and thought1 might be gathered from among the records of these houses of entertainment4 ,for centuries before these days of telegraphs and newspapers1 it was to the tavern that men resorted to hear the latest news1 to exchange ideas and to refresh their minds1 as well as bodies1 after the labours of the day4 ,it was here the traveller told his tale of marvels1 of 8contrees and the yles that ben beyond ,cathay02 it was here the stay-at-home gathered what information he possessed of lands and nations over the seas4 ,space forbids us to mention more than a very few of these old ,london ,inns4 ,that old ,tabard--what a picture of fourteenth-century life does its very name recall6 ,the earliest mention of this typical old ,southwark ,inn--an inn which after seeing all the changes and chances of five centuries1 fell a victim but yesterday to that modern ,vandal1 the improver 7save the mark67--occurs in a register of the ,abbey of ,hyde1 near ,winchester1 where we find that two tenements were conveyed by ,william de ,ludegarsale to the ,abbot in #acjf1 the site being described as extending in length from the common ditch of ,southwark eastwards1 as far as the royal way towards the west4 ,this royal way was none other than the old ,roman road which connected ,london with ,kent and the south4 ,stow1 writing three centuries later1 thus mentions the inn and its sign3 8,from thence towards ,london ,bridge10 he writes1 8bee many faire ,innes1 for receit of travellers1 by these signes1 the ,spurre1 ,christopher1 ,bull1 ,queen's ,head1 ,tabard1 ,george1 ,hart1 ,king's ,head1 etc4 ,amongst the which the most ancient is the ,tabard1 so called of the signe1 which as wee do now terme it1 is of a ,jacket or sleevelesse coate whole before1 open on both sides1 with a square collar1 winged at the shoulders2 a stately garment1 of old time commonly worne of noblemen and others1 both at home and abroad in the warres2 but then1 7to wit in the warres7 their ,armes embroidered1 or otherwise depict upon them that every man by his coate of ,armes might be knowne from others3 ,but now these ,tabards are onely worne by the ,heralds1 and bee called their coates of ,armes in service4 ,of the ,inne of the ,tabard1 ,geffrey ,chaucer ,esquire1 the most famous poet of ,england1 in commendation thereof1 writeth thus3-- 8,byfel1 that in that sesoun1 on a day ,in ,southwark at the ,tabard as ,i lay1 ,redy to wenden on my pilgrimage ,to ,caunterbury with ful devout corage1 #bja ,at night was come into that hostelrie ,wel nyne and twenty in a compainye1 ,of sondry folk1 by aventure i-falle1 ,in felawship and pilgrims were thei alle1 ,that toward ,caunterbury wolden ryden40 ,then follows an unrivalled description of typical fourteenth-century society4 ,the ,knight1 4 4 4 4 a worthy man1 ,that from the tyme that he first bigan ,to ryden out1 he lovede chyvalrye1 ,trouthe and honour1 fredom and curteisie4 99 99 99 99 99 ,he was a very perfight gentil knight40 --,the ,squire1 whose gay dress is thus described3-- ,embrowded was he1 as it were a mede ,al ful of fresshe flouers1 white and reede-- --,the ,yeoman attending him1 8clad in coote and hood of greene40 --,the 8,nonne1 a ,prioresse10 so 8symple and coy10 whose 8gretteste ooth was but by seynt ,loy03-- ,and ,frensch sche spak ful faine and fetysly1 ,after the scole of ,stratford atte ,bowe ,for ,frensch of ,parys was to hire unknowe4 --,the ,sporting ,monk1 the prototype of the ,hunting ,parson of more recent days3-- ,an outrydere that lovede venerye2 ,a manly man1 to ben an abbot able4 ,ful many a deynte hors hadde he in stable3 99 99 99 99 99 ,greyhoundes he hadde as swifte as fowel in flight2 ,of prikyng and of huntyng for the hare ,was al his lust1 for no cost wolde he spare4 --,the easy-going ,friar1 who 8sweetely herde confessioun03-- ,and pleasant was his absolucioun 99 99 99 99 99 ,he knew the tavernes well in every toun1 ,and everych hostiler and tappestere4 #bjb --,the ,merchant with his forked beard and 8,flaundrisch bevere hat0--,the ,clerk of ,oxenford--,the ,sergeant of ,law1 8war and wys0--,the ,franklin--,the ,ploughman--,the ,cook1 and every other of that goodly company--,how fresh their pictures are to-day6 ,each touch1 each tint1 as clear1 as bright1 as though the great father of ,english poetry had but yesterday laid aside his pencil6 ,and then the ,host1 none other than the ,henry ,bayley of the ,tabard1 who represented the borough of ,southwark in ,parliament in #acgf1 and again in #acgh1 how interesting it is to observe his demeanour1 as depicted by ,chaucer4 ,quite at his ease1 and on an equality with his guests1 he talks with them1 jests with them1 in person presides over the table1 acts as umpire and judge of the tales they tell upon the journey1 and generally behaves more like a man who entertains his friends than a landlord serving his guests2 and1 be it remembered1 these guests were not by any means of the lowest rank of life3 ,a seemly man our hoste was withal1 ,for to have ben a marshall in an hall1 ,a large man he was with eyen steep1 ,a fairer burgess was there none in ,chepe3 ,bold of his speeche1 and wys and well y-taught1 ,and of manhood him lackede righte noughte4 ,the old ,tabard was partly burnt down in the great ,southwark fire in #afgf1 and on rebuilding the ruined portion 8that ignorant landlord or tenant10 ,aubrey tells us1 8instead of the ancient sign of the ,tabard put up the ,talbot or doge40 ,in this condition it remained until a few years ago1 when1 despite the protests of the antiquarian world1 despite the pages of remonstrance with which the newspapers and magazines were filled1 it was pulled down1 and is now replaced by a tall brick building4 ,had we not enough and to spare of these tall brick buildings8 ,illustration3 ,the ,tabard in #agbb4 ,at the time when ,knight wrote his ,history of ,london1 the original house was sufficiently complete for him to leave us a description of the old arched entrance to the inn-yard1 the balustraded galleries on which the bedrooms opened1 the gabled roofs1 the panelled rooms1 and last1 #bjc but not least1 the ,pilgrim's room1 which tradition said was the veritable scene of the supper on the night before the guests set out upon their world-famed pilgrimage4 ,john ,lydgate1 a ,benedictine monk of ,bury ,st4 ,edmunds1 writing about the same time as ,chaucer1 mentions that ,cornhill was in his time noted for its taverns1 where was 8wine one pint for a pennie1 and bread to drink it was given free at every tavern40 ,in a black-letter sheet entitled ,newes from ,bartholomew ,fayre1 of probably the early part of the seventeenth century1 some of the most famous inns of ,london are thus whimsically enumerated3-- ,there has been great sale and utterance of wine1 ,besides ,beer1 ,ale1 and ,hippocrass fine1 ,in every country1 region1 and ,nation1 ,chiefly at ,billings-gate1 at the ,salutation2 ,and ,boreshead near ,london ,stone1 ,the ,swan at ,dowgate1 a tavern well knowne2 ,the ,mitre in ,cheap1 and the ,bull-head1 ,and many like places that make noses red2 ,the ,boreshead in ,old ,fish ,street1 ,three ,cranes in the ,vintree ,and now1 of late1 ,saint ,martin's in the ,sentree2 ,the ,windmill in ,lothbury1 the ,ship at the ,exchange1 ,king's ,head in ,new ,fish ,street1 where ,roysters do range2 ,the ,mermaid in ,cornhill1 ,red ,lion in the ,strand1 ,three ,tuns in ,newgate ,market1 in ,old ,fish ,street the ,swan4 ,most of these hostelries1 famous in their day and generation1 were swept away in the ,great ,fire of ,london4 ,the ,boar's ,head in ,eastcheap1 8near ,london stone10 was one of the oldest inns in ,london4 ,it stood near the site whereon the statue to ,william ,,iv4 in ,king ,william ,street has been erected4 ,it was there that ,prince ,hal and 8honest ,jack ,falstaff0 played their wildest pranks4 ,carved oak figures of the two worthies stood at the door of the house until the ,great ,fire2 and the proud inscription1 8,this is the chief tavern in ,london10 appeared upon the signboard until the house was finally pulled down in #ahca1 to make way for the approaches of ,london ,bridge4 ,in the year #agah one ,james ,austin1 the inventor of 8,persian inkpowder10 whatever that may have been1 desiring to entertain his chief customers1 and also1 no doubt1 to advertise his wonderful powder1 issued invitations for a ,brobdingnagian repast to be partaken of at the ,boar's ,head4 ,the feast was to consist of an enormous plum-pudding1 weighing #a1jjj lbs41 #bjd and the best piece of an ox roasted2 this wonderous pudding was put to boil on ,monday1 ,may #abth1 in a copper at the ,red ,lion ,inn in ,southwark1 where it had to boil for fourteen days4 ,as soon as this mighty feat of cookery was accomplished1 a triumphant procession was formed1 and the pudding set out on its journey1 escorted by a band playing ,what lumps of pudding my mother gave me2 but1 alas1 for the vanity of all things human6 the tempting dish had not proceeded far upon its way1 when the mob1 goaded to madness by the savoury odour of the pudding1 fell upon the escort1 and1 having put them to the rout1 tore the pudding in pieces1 and devoured it there and then4 ,illustration3 ,the ,boar's ,head4 ,some years ago a great mound of rubbish in ,whitechapel1 supposed to be the carted remains of the ,city after the ,great ,fire1 was cleared away1 and the relic1 of which we give a representation1 was discovered4 ,it is an oak carving1 dated at the back #aefh1 and had a name written upon it which was found to correspond with that of the landlord of the ,boar's ,head1 ,eastcheap1 in that year4 ,a ballad1 which assigns to each inn its particular class of customers1 is introduced by ,thomas ,heywood into his ,rape of ,lucrece3-- ,the ,gintry to the ,king's ,head1 ,the ,nobles to the ,crown1 ,the ,knights unto the ,golden ,fleece1 ,and to the ,plough the ,clowne4 #bje ,the ,churchman to the ,mitre1 ,the ,shepherd to the ,star1 ,the ,gardiner hies him to the ,rose1 ,to the ,drum the ,man of ,war4 ,the ,huntsman to the ,white ,hart1 ,to the ,ship the ,merchants goe1 ,and you that doe the ,muses love1 ,the sign called ,river ,po4 ,the ,banquer out to the ,world's ,end1 ,the ,fool to the ,fortune hie1 ,unto the ,mouth the ,oyster-wife1 ,the ,fiddler to the ,pie4 ,the taverns of the seventeenth century seem in many cases to have occupied the upper part of a house1 the lower portion being devoted to some other trade4 ,izaak ,walton's ,complete ,angler was to be 8sold at his shopp in ,fleet ,street1 under the ,king's ,head ,tavern40 ,bishop ,earle1 who wrote in the early part of that century1 seems to signify that there was often a tavern above and an alehouse below4 8,a tavern10 he says1 8is a degree or 7if you will7 a pair of stairs above an alehouse where men are drunk with more credit and apology4 4 4 4 ,men come here to be merry1 and indeed make a noise1 and the music above is answered with a clinking below40 ,amongst the inns and taverns frequented by ,shakspere may be mentioned the ,falcon ,tavern1 by the ,bankside1 which was the place of meeting of the mighty poets and wits of the ,elizabethan age--of ,shakspere1 ,ben ,jonson1 ,marlowe1 ,massinger1 ,ford1 ,beaumont1 ,fletcher1 ,drayton1 ,herrick1 and a host of lesser names4 ,an assemblage1 indeed1 unique in any country or in any age6 ,here took place those 8wit combats10 of which ,fuller speaks1 between ,shakspere and ,ben ,jonson1 8which two ,i behold like a ,spanish great galleon1 and an ,english man-of-war2 ,master ,jonson 7like the former7 was built far higher in learning2 solid1 but slow1 in his performances4 ,shakspere1 like the ,english man-of-war1 lesser in bulk1 but lighter in sailing1 could turn with all tides1 tack about1 and take advantage of all winds by the quickness of his wit and invention40 ,an example of the kindly passages of wit between these two great spirits has come down to us1 having been preserved from the oblivion that shrouds the bulk of them by ,sir ,nicholas ,lestrange1 in his #bjf ,merry ,passages and ,jests4 ,the passage1 in the compiler's own words is as follows3--8,shakspere was god-father to one of ,ben ,jonson's children2 and after the christening1 being in a deep study1 ,jonson came to cheer him up1 and asked him why he was so melancholy4 #8,no1 faith1 ,ben1' 7says he71 #8not ,i2 but ,i have been considering a great while what should be the fittest gift for me to bestow upon my god-child2 and ,i have resolved at last4' #8,i prythee what8' says he1 #8,i 'faith1 ,ben1 ,i'll e'en give him a dozen good ,latin spoons 7i4e4 latten1 an inferior metal71 and thou shalt translate them4'0 ,whether the ,spanish great galleon could bring his guns to bear upon his nimble antagonist in this encounter is left unrecorded2 but we can imagine that the great scholar would not be without a retort to a jest which was directed against his classic learning by one who had 8little ,latin and less ,greek40 ,the great poet seems to have had many god-children4 ,of one1 ,sir ,william ,davenant1 while yet a boy1 the following tradition remains4 ,the father of ,sir ,william was host of the ,crown at ,oxford1 and at this house ,shakspere would frequently lodge on his journeys between ,stratford-on-,avon and ,london4 ,malicious rumour had it that the lad was of a closer relationship than that of god-son only1 and upon one occasion1 on the poet's arrival at ,oxford1 the boy1 who was sent for to meet him1 was asked by a grave master of one of the colleges whither he was going4 8,home10 said the lad1 8to see my god-father40 8,fie1 child10 said the don1 8why art thou so superfluous8 ,hast not thou yet learnt not to use the name of ,god in vain80 ,the ,mermaid1 in ,bread ,street1 was often the place of meeting of these convivial wits4 ,beaumont1 then a mere lad1 addressing ,jonson in verse1 writes3-- --,what things have we seen ,done at the ,mermaid6 heard words that have been ,so nimble and so full of subtle flame1 ,as if that everyone from whence they came ,had meant to put his whole wit in a jest1 ,and had resolved to live a fool the rest ,of his dull life3 4 4 4 4 ,we left an air behind us1 which alone ,was able to make the two next companies ,right witty2--though but downright fools1 mere wise4 ,sir ,walter ,raleigh established a literary club at this house in the year1 #afjc4 ,amongst the members were ,shakspere1 ,jonson1 ,beaumont ,fletcher1 ,selden1 ,donne1 and many scarcely less illustrious names4 ,herrick1 in graceful lyrics1 bears witness to similar sparkling gatherings of a somewhat later date1 and to other houses where they were held3-- ,ah1 ,ben6 ,say how1 or when1 ,shall we thy guests1 ,meet at those lyric feasts ,made at the ,sun1 ,the ,dog1 the ,triple ,tun8 ,where we such clusters had1 ,as made us nobly wild1 not mad2 ,and yet each verse of thine ,out-did the meat1 out-did the wine4 ,ben ,jonson1 in inviting a friend to sup with him at the ,mermaid1 promises him-- ,a cup of pure ,canary wine1 ,which is the ,mermaid's now1 but shall be mine4 ,the ,swan at ,charing ,cross1 however1 was the house where ,jonson was always most sure of getting the best draught of his favourite liquor4 ,aubrey relates that the poet was upon one occasion dining with ,king ,james1 and when called upon to say grace produced the following lines3-- ,our ,king and ,queen1 the ,lord ,god blesse1 ,the ,palsgrave and the ,lady ,besse1 ,and ,god blesse every living thing ,that lives and breathes and loves the ,king4 ,god blesse the ,councill of ,estate1 ,and ,buckingham the fortunate4 ,god blesse them all1 and keep them safe1 ,and ,god blesse me1 and ,god blesse ,ralph4 ,whereupon 8the ,king was mighty inquisitive to know who this ,ralph was4 ,ben told him 'twas the drawer at the ,swanne ,taverne by ,charing ,crosse1 who drew him good canarie4 ,for this drollerie his ,matie4 gave him an hundred pounds40 ,the legend of ,st4 ,dunstan1 who1 being tempted of the devil in bodily form1 took the prince of darkness by the nose1 and ,with redhot tongs he made him roar ,till he was heard three miles or more1 #bjh was commemorated on the signboard of a celebrated inn in ,fleet ,street1 which was called 8,the ,devil0 for short4 ,the old inn stood on the site now occupied by ,child's ,bank1 and it was there that the meetings of the celebrated ,apollo ,club were held1 and rare ,ben ,jonson1 with other kindred spirits1 passed the sparkling wine and still more sparkling jest4 ,here over the entrance of the ,apollo ,chamber were inscribed the well-known lines beginning ,welcome all who lead or follow ,to the oracle of ,apollo4 ,sim ,wadlow1 whom ,jonson dubbed 8the king of skinkers10#ea was one of the famous landlords of this house4 ,the following epitaph on this notorious character is recorded by ,camden in his ,remaines3-- #ea ,skinkers tapsters2 from the old ,english verb schenchen1 to pour out4 ,apollo et cohors ,musarum1 ,bacchus vini et uvarum1 ,ceres pro pane et cervisia1 ,adeste omnes cum tristitia4 ,dii1 ,deque1 lamentate cuncti1 ,simonis ,vadloe funera defuncti1 ,sub signo malo bene vixit1 mirabile6 ,si ad clum recessit gratias ,diaboli4 ,these lines may be thus rendered3-- ,apollo and the ,muses nine1 ,bacchus the god of grapes and wine1 ,ceres the friend of 8cakes and ale10 ,assembled1 list to my sad tale4 ,gods1 goddesses1 lament ye all1 ,at ,simon ,wadlow's funeral1 ,he lived right well tho' his sign was evil1 ,if heaven he won1 'tis thanks to #8the ,devil4' ,our illustration depicts two innkeepers1 who were probably ,sim ,wadlow's contemporaries4 #bji ,during the last century ,the ,devil ,tavern was the resort of the wits and literary men of the day4 ,addison and ,dr4 ,garth often dined here2 and ,dr4 ,johnson here once presided at a supper that lasted till dawn peeped in at the windows4 ,the inn was pulled down in the year #aghh4 ,illustration3 ,innkeepers1 #afda4 ,nearly opposite to the ,devil stood the ,cock ,tavern1 for centuries1 and until a few months ago1 when it was closed for alterations1 frequented by the ,templars4 ,we hope that it was not for this reason that its internal arrangements were spoken of by the ,laureate as-- ,the haunts of hungry sinners1 ,old boxes1 larded with the steam ,of thirty thousand dinners4 ,this ,tavern1 once known as the ,cock and ,bottle1 and subsequently as the ,cock ,alehouse1 was a noted house in the seventeenth century4 ,the effigy of the ,cock1 which until recently used to stand over the door1 was reputed to have been carved by the great ,grinling ,gibbons4 ,at the time of the ,plague of ,london the following advertisement appeared in the ,intelligencer3--8,this is to certify that the ,master of the ,cock and ,bottle1 commonly called the ,cock ,alehouse1 hath dismissed his servants1 and shut up his house for this long vacation1 intending 7,god willing7 to return at ,michaelmass next1 so that all persons who have any accounts #baj or farthings belonging to the said house are desired to repair thither before the #hth of this instant ,july1 and they shall receive satisfaction40 ,the ,cock1 however1 seems to have soon resumed its hospitality1 for we read that ,pepys shortly afterwards went 8by water to the ,temple1 and then to the ,cock ,alehouse1 and drank1 and ate a lobster1 and sang1 and mighty merry4 ,so almost night1 ,i carried ,mrs4 ,pierce home2 and then ,knipp and ,i to the ,temple again1 and took boat1 it being darkish1 and to ,foxhall1 it being now night1 and a bonfire burning at ,lambeth for the ,king's coronation day40 ,a waiter at this house is commemorated in the well-known lines of ,will ,waterproof's ,monologue3-- ,o plump head waiter at the ,cock ,to which ,i most resort1 ,how goes the time8 'tis five o'clock1 ,go fetch a pint of port4 ,the old ,cock alehouse is now no more2 but the sign which for two hundred years has looked down upon the bustling ,fleet ,street crowds1 together with the 8old boxes0 and carved oak over-mantel1 have found a resting-place at 8,the ,temple ,bar10 on the other side of the way4 ,the ,mitre was the sign of several celebrated ,london ,taverns1 the most famous of all being that situated in ,mitre ,court1 ,fleet ,street1 where ,dr4 ,johnson and ,goldsmith1 ,boswell1 and other lesser lights used to meet4 ,it was here that ,boswell first made acquaintance with the great ,doctor4 8,he agreed to meet me in the evening at the ,mitre4 ,i called on him1 and we went thither at nine4 ,we had a good supper and port wine1 of which he then sometimes drank a bottle4 ,the orthodox1 ,high ,church sound of the ,mitre1--the figure and manner of the celebrated ,samuel ,johnson--the extraordinary power and precision of his conversation1 and the pride from finding myself admitted as his companion1 produced a variety of sensations and a pleasing elevation of mind beyond what ,i had ever experienced40 ,the great name of ,shakspere is also connected by tradition with this house4 ,the old ,globe ,tavern in ,fleet ,street survived down to about the beginning of the present century4 ,it was the favourite resort of ,oliver ,goldsmith1 who took great delight in hearing a certain 8tun of a man10 who frequented the house1 sing the song entitled ,nottingham ,ale1 in which ,bacchus himself is said to have sprung from a barrel of that famous liquor3-- #baa ,fair ,venus1 the ,goddess of beauty and love1 ,arose from the froth that swam on the sea1 ,minerva leap'd out of the cranium of ,jove1 ,a coy sullen slut1 as most authors agree2 ,bold ,bacchus they tell us1 the prince of good fellows1 ,was his natural son1 but attend to my tale1 ,for they that thus chatter mistake quite the matter1 ,he sprang from a barrel of ,nottingham ,ale1 ,nottingham ,ale1 boys2 ,nottingham ,ale2 no liquor on earth is like ,nottingham ,ale4 ,this song was a great favourite in the eighteenth century1 and was sung to the tune of 8,lilabolero40 ,the ,crown and ,anchor in the ,strand was one of the most famous houses in ,london during the first part of the present century4 ,a tragic story is related of how one ,thomas ,simpkin1 the first landlord after the rebuilding of the house in #agij1 on the occasion of an inaugural dinner1 in leaning over a balcony to look into the street1 broke the balustrade and1 falling to the ground1 was killed on the spot4 ,here were held the famous ,westminster political meetings1 and here the birthday of ,fox was celebrated in #agid1 when two thousand persons sat down to dinner4 ,many another tavern in this region so famous for houses of entertainment1 brings back memories of the past1 but space forbids us to linger over the recital4 ,john ,taylor1 the ,water ,poet 7poeta ,aquaticus1 as he was fond of calling himself71 who was the author of many whimsical works in prose as well as verse1 was a ,thames waterman1 and the keeper of an alehouse in ,phnix ,alley1 ,long ,acre4 ,it is related of him that on the death of ,charles ,i4 he changed his sign1 which had formerly been the ,crown1 into the ,mourning ,bush1 as expressing his grief and loyalty4 ,he was1 however1 soon compelled to take this sign down1 and he then substituted the ,poet's ,head1 his own portrait1 with this inscription3-- ,there is many a head hangs for a sign2 ,then1 gentle reader1 why not mine8 ,at the same time he issued the following poetical advertisement3-- ,my signe was once a ,crowne1 but now it is ,changed by a sudden metamorphosis4 ,the ,crowne was taken downe1 and in the stead ,is placed ,john ,taylor's1 or the ,poet's ,head4 #bab ,a painter did my picture gratis make1 ,and 7for a signe7 ,i hanged it for his sake4 ,now if my picture's drawing can prevayle1 ',twill draw my friends to me1 and ,i'll draw ale4 ,two strings are better to a bow than one2 ,and poeting does me small good alone4 ,so ale alone yields but small good to me1 ,except it have some spice of poesie4 ,the fruits of ale are unto drunkards such1 ,to make 'em sweare and lye that drink too much4 ,but my ale1 being drunk with moderation1 ,will quench thirst and make merry recreation4 ,my booke and signe were published for two ends1 ,t' invite my honest1 civill1 sober friends4 ,from such as are not such ,i kindly pray1 ,till ,i send for 'em1 let 'em keep away4 ,from ,phnix ,alley1 the ,globe ,taverne neare ,the ,middle of ,long ,acre1 ,i dwell there4 ,an old dodge of some of the ,london tavern-keepers was to hang up in a conspicuous place in the taproom1 a notice to the effect that no one could have more than one glass at a sitting4 ,the result of this notable device was the very opposite to what one might expect2 it is thus quaintly told by old ,decker1 in his ,seven ,deadly ,sins1 seven times pressed to death3 8,then you have another brewing called ,huff's ale1 at which1 because no man must have but a pot at a sitting1 and so be gone1 the restraint makes them more eager to come in1 so that by this policie one may huffe it four or five times a day40 ,last century was pre-eminently the century for ,clubs1 some literary some political1 and some purely social1 many partaking of all these characters4 ,the ,october ,club1 which was so called on account of the quantities of ,october ale which the members drank1 used to meet at the ,bell ,tavern1 ,king ,street1 ,westminster1 and drink confusion to the ,whigs4 ,swift was a member4 8,we are plagued here10 he writes to ,stella1 8with an ,october ,club2 that is a set of above a hundred ,parliament men of the country1 who drink ,october beer at home1 and meet every evening at a tavern near the ,parliament1 to consult affairs and drive matters to extremes against the ,whigs1 to call the old ,ministry to account1 and get off five or six heads40 ,the ,mug ,houses1 famous early in the last century1 were distinguished #bac by the rows of pewter mugs placed in the window1 or hung up outside as in the illustration1 which is taken from the ,book of ,days4 ,in ,a ,journey through ,england 7#agbb7 the original ,mug-house is thus described3 8,but the most diverting and amusing of all is the ,mug-house ,club in ,long ,acre4 ,they have a grave old gentleman1 in his own gray hairs1 now within a few months of ninety years old1 who is their ,president1 and sits in an arm'd chair some steps higher than the rest of the company1 to keep the whole room in order4 ,a harp plays all the time at the lower end of the room2 and every now and then one or other of the company rises and entertains the rest with a song1 and 7by-the-by7 some are good masters4 ,here is nothing drunk but ale1 and every gentleman hath his separate ,mug1 which he chalks on the table where he sits as it is brought in2 and everyone retires when he pleases as from a ,coffee ,house4 ,the ,room is always so diverted with songs1 and drinking from one table to another to one another's healths1 that there is no room for ,politicks1 or anything that can sow'r conversation4 ,one must be there by seven to get ,room1 and after ten the ,company are for the most part gone4 ,this is a ,winter's amusement1 that is agreeable enough to a ,stranger for once or twice1 and he is well diverted with the different ,humours1 when the ,mugs overflow40 ,illustration3 ,mug ,house4 #bad ,a few years earlier1 however1 8,politicks0 had much troubled this ,house and others of which it was the parent4 8,on ,king ,george's accession10 says the ,mirror1 8the ,tories had so much the better of the friends to the ,protestant succession1 that they gained the mobs on all public days to their side4 ,this induced a set of gentlemen to establish ,mug-houses in all the corners of this great city1 for well affected tradesmen to meet and keep up the spirit of loylty to the ,protestant succession1 and to be ready1 upon all tumults1 to join their forces to put down the ,tory mobs40 ,the frequenters of these houses formed themselves into ,mug-house ,clubs after the fashion of their prototype1 and discussed their ,whig sentiments-- 8,while ale inspires and lends its kindly aid ,the thought perplexing labour to pursue40 ,whenever ,tory mobs assembled1 these disorderly champions of order would sally forth and attack them with sticks and staves and divers other offensive weapons4 8,so many were the riots10 continues the ,mirror1 8that the police was obliged1 by ,act of ,parliament1 to put an end of this ,city strife1 which had this good effect1 that upon pulling down of the ,mug-house in ,salisbury ,court1 for which some boys were hanged on this ,act1 the ,city has not been troubled with them since40 ,a still earlier ,club1 more renowned than any for its marvellous powers of suction1 was the ,everlasting ,club1 instituted during the ,parliamentary wars2 it was so called because it sat night and day1 one set of members relieving another4 ,it is recorded of them early in the eighteenth century that 8since their first institution they have smoked fifty tons of tobacco1 drank thirty thousand butts of ale1 one thousand hogsheads of red port1 two hundred barrels of brandy1 and one kilderkine of small beer4 ,they sang old catches at all hours to encourage one another to moisten their clay1 and grow immortal by drinking40 ,no work on the ,curiosities of ,ale and ,beer would be complete without some notice of signboards4 ,their connection with taverns and alehouses is so ancient and intimate1 and many of them are in themselves so exceedingly curious1 that they may be said to constitute some of the chief curiosities of the subject4 ,the history of signboards has been so exhaustively written by ,mr4 ,larwood and ,mr4 ,hotten that it would be superfluous1 even if space did not forbid1 to present to our readers anything but a slight sketch of so voluminous a subject4 #bae ,signboards at the present day may be said to inspire their historian with something of a melancholy feeling4 ,a history of them is a history of a bygone art1 which has long passed its zenith1 which has served its purpose1 and which is destined to decay more and more before the advance of modern education4 ,truly the glory of signboards is departed6 ,though one sees here and there a barber's pole1 a golden fleece1 and a few other signs of divers trades1 innkeepers and alehouse-keepers are the only persons who as a class keep to their old distinctive marks4 ,formerly1 when persons who could read and write were few1 every craft and occupation had its own peculiar sign1 for the huge letters and notice-boards1 now so common1 would at that time have been of little use4 ,there seems to be no doubt that we derived the signboard from the ,romans2 the old ,latin proverb ,vino vendibili suspensa hedera non opus est finds its counterpart in the ,english ,good wine needs no bush1 and the common sign of the ,bush is the lineal descendant of the old ,roman bunch of ivy4 ,in the excavations at ,herculaneum and ,pompeii many examples have been brought to light of signs appropriate to various trades3 thus1 a goat is the sign of a dairy2 a mule driving a mill is the sign of a miller or baker2 and two men carrying a large amphora of wine is the sign of the vintner1 and brings to mind the well-known ,english sign of the ,two ,jolly ,brewers carrying a barrel of ale strung on a long pole4 ,the ale-stake1 which was a long pole either attached to the front of the house or standing in the road before the door1 seems to have been the first sign in use with ,english ale-sellers4 ,in early times every person who brewed ale for sale was1 as has been already mentioned1 compelled by law to exhibit the ale-stake as a signal to the local ale-conner that his services were required4 ,very early mention is to be found of these signs4 ,in #acic ,florence ,north1 a ,chelsea ale-wife1 was presented for neglecting to put up an ale-stake in front of her house4 ,similar allusions are to be found in many early writers4 ,chaucer's ,pardoner when asked to begin his tale-- 8,it shall be donn10 quod he1 8and that anoon4 ,but first10 quod he1 8here at this ale-stake1 ,i will both drynke and byten on a cake40 ,the accompanying cut is taken from a manuscript of the fourteenth century4 ,the figures are doubtless an ale-wife and a pilgrim4 #baf 8,the ale-pole doth but signifie that there is good ale in the house where the ale-pole standeth10 writes an old author1 8and will tell him that he muste go near the house and there he shall find the drinke1 and not stand sucking the ale-pole in vayne40 ,and again3-- ,for lyke as the jolly ale-house ,is always knowen by the good ale-stake1 ,so are proude jelots sone perceaved1 to1 ,by their proude folly1 and wanton gate4 ,illustration3 ,an ,ale-stake4 ,skelton1 writing of the fame of ,elynour ,rummynge's 8noppy ale10 alludes to the ale-pole thus3-- ,another brought her bedes ,of jet or of cole1 ,to offer to the ale-pole4 ,illustration3 ,signboard and ,bush4 ,in process of time it became usual for the publican to affix some further distinctive mark to his ale-stake4 ,at first a mere bush or bunch of ivy seems to have been used1 and in ,scotland a wisp of straw long served the same purpose4 ,in ,chaucer's time the bush had developed into an ale-garland of considerable size1 as we are informed by the lines3-- ,a garlond hadde he sette uhede ,as grete as it wer for an ale-stake4 ,the signboard and bush shown above are taken from a print of ,cheapside in #afch4 #bag ,porter's ,angry ,woman shows that a mere bush was still frequently used at that period 7#aeii7 by the passage3 8,i might have had a pumpe set up with as good ,marche beere as this was and nere set up an ale-bush for the matter10 and the ,country ,carbonadoed 7#afcb7 shows that the bush had not yet become specialised to the use of the wine-seller4 ,referring to alehouses1 it is stated that 8if these houses have a boxe-bush1 or an old post1 it is enough to show their profession1 but if they be graced with a signe compleat1 it is a signe of good custome40 ,towards the end of the seventeenth century1 the ivy-bush1 the sacred emblem of ,bacchus1 came to denote that wine as well as ale was sold within4 ,in ,poor ,robin's ,perambulation from ,saffron ,walden to ,london 7#afgh7 the author mentions that-- ,some ale-houses upon the road ,i saw1 ,and some with bushes1 showing they wine did draw4 ,the following illustrations represent an ancient road-side alehouse and a hostel by night4 ,the former is taken from a manuscript of the early part of the fifteenth century4 ,the latter is from an illumination in the ,cent ,nouvelles ,nouvelles in the ,hunterian ,library at ,glasgow1 and is of about the same date4 ,in one a conventional bush appears above the door2 while in the other there is both bush and sign4 ,the absence of any night attire other than night-caps--the usual custom of the period--and the number of persons sleeping in one room1 are noticeable4 ,night-caps were no doubt very necessary in an age when glass windows were little used4 ,illustration3 ,ancient ,alehouse4 ,the next step in the historical development of the signboard was the addition of a carved and painted effigy of a ,swan1 a ,cock1 a ,hen1 or some other bird or beast4 ,the effigy was fixed in a hoop and hung from the end of the ale-pole1 and it is suggested that the term 8cock-a-hoop10 signifying a rather offensively jubilant demeanour1 may be traced to the attitude of ,chanticleer upon the ale-house hoop4 ,hazlitt gives a different origin to the phrase4 ,quoting from ,blount's ,dictionary 7#afha71 he says3 8,the ,cock was the tap and being taken out #bah and laid on the hoop of the vessel1 they used to drink up the ale as it ran out without intermission 7in ,staffordshire now called stunning a barrel of ale7 and then they were cock-on-hoop 7i4e41 at the height of mirth and jolity740 ,old ,heywood seems to support the latter derivation in the lines3-- ,he maketh havok and setteth the cock on hoope2 ,he is so lavies1 the stooke beginneth to droope4 ,from the painted effigy to the painted signboard was an easy step1 and then began the signboard's palmy days4 ,if mine host were a man of small imagination1 he might still be content with a bush or with the arms of some local magnate1 but if he were a man of fancy1 his imagination1 in quest of a worthy sign1 might revel unrestrained through the highways and byways of history ancient and modern1 political and natural4 ,the sign was and is usually painted on a board and suspended from the front of the house1 or from a sign-post set up in the street in front of the door4 ,in country places signboard ambition went so far as to erect a kind of triumphal arch in front of the house1 from the centre of which the signboard swung4 ,illustration3 ,night ,scene in a ,fifteenth-century ,inn4 ,a good example of a signboard stretching across a street may be seen in the illustration of the ,black ,boy ,inn1 ,chelmsford1 which is taken from a print by ,ryland of the date #aggj4 #bai ,even as early as the reign of ,henry ,v4 the eagerness of the ale-house keepers to outstrip one another in the size of their signboards had become obnoxious to the authorities4 ,the ,liber ,albus contains a direction to the ,wardmotes of the ,city of ,london1 to make inquiry whether the ale-stake of any tavern 8is longer or extends further than ordinary10 and the ,common ,council ordained that 8whereas the ale-stakes projecting in front of taverns in ,chepe1 and elsewhere in the said ,city1 extend too far over the ,king's highways1 to the impeding of riders and others1 and by reason of their excessive weight1 to the great deterioration of the houses to which they are fixed10 therefore the taverners are ordered that on pain of #djs4 fine they shall not have a stake1 bearing a sign or leaves extending over the ,king's highway1 of greater length than seven feet at most4 ,illustration3 ,the ,,black ,,boy ,,inn ,the restriction on the length of the projecting signboards seems to have been little regarded4 ,charles ,i41 in his ,charter to the ,city of ,london1 granted on his accession to the throne1 permits the use of suspended signs1 and the ,charter contains no mention of any restriction #bbj as to size4 ,the nuisance caused by the extravagant size of signboards at length became very great1 and in the reign of ,charles ,,ii4 it was ordained that 8in all the streets no signboard shall hang across1 but that the sign shall be fixed against the balconies or some convenient part of the side of the house40 ,even this specific regulation seems to have been generally disregarded1 as we learn from an account written in #agai1 by ,misson1 a ,french traveller4 ,speaking of the signs1 he says3 8,at ,london1 they are commonly very large1 and jut out so far1 that in some narrow streets they touch one another2 nay1 and run across almost quite to the other side4 ,they are generally adorned with carving and gilding2 and there are several that1 with the branches of iron which support them1 cost above a hundred guineas4 4 4 4 4 ,out of ,london1 and particularly in villages1 the signs of inns are suspended in the middle of a great wooden portal1 which may be looked upon as a kind of triumphal arch to the honour of ,bacchus40 ,about the middle of last century various ,acts of ,parliament were passed1 the result of which was that ,london signboards have from that time been fixed to the face of the house1 and are no longer allowed to project over the street4 ,we must go to the country districts1 and best of all to one of our old cathedral towns1 to see really old-fashioned signs4 ,in some cases a signboard may still be seen hanging beneath beautifully scrolled iron work1 from which in more artistic days the 8ale-house painted signs0 depended4 ,even in such a stronghold of conservative and antiquarian feeling as a cathedral city1 these relics of the past are yearly becoming more and more scarce1 though in those out-of-the-world places1 where a change in the situation of the parochial pump must be preceded by about a proportionate amount of discussion as would attend the proposal to make a new underground railway for ,london1 the removal of an old signboard is usually a matter causing grave public agitation4 ,the authors of the ,history of ,signboards have given an account of the demolition of the time-honoured sign of ,sir ,john ,falstaff1 which for many a generation had gladdened the hearts of the good citizens of ,canterbury4 ,however1 as a matter of fact1 the signboard was only removed to be repainted1 and in spite of the orders of ,local ,boards and ,city ,authorities1 in spite of law suits and various other disagreeable attempts at persuasion1 the owner of the house has persisted in maintaining in its place this fine old sign with its elaborate iron-work1 and there to this day may the gallant knight be seen1 with sword and buckler1 ready to make instant assault on those men in buckram1 or on any other foes4 #bba ,the close connection that existed between the profession of host and the signboard1 may be judged from the fact that the publican who was deprived of his licence also had his sign removed by the minions of the law4 ,a ,new ,way to ,pay ,old ,debts illustrates this fact in the lines-- ,for this gross fault ,i here do damn thy licence1 ,forbidding thee ever to tap or draw2 ,for instantly ,i will in mine own person ,command the constables to pull down thy sign4 ,in #afbi one ,price was forbidden to open a certain house in ,leadenhall ,street as a tavern1 8whiche house was heretofore never used for a taverne1 and standeth unfitly for that purpose1 being neare unto the ,church and two auncient tavernes already neere unto the same in the same streete40 ,price1 however1 persisted1 and accordingly the ,common ,council issued orders for the closing of his doors and the taking down of his bush4 ,probably the most elaborate signboard that ever existed1 a marvel even in the palmy days of signs1 was hung before ,the ,white ,hart at ,scole1 in ,norfolk4 ,sir ,thomas ,brown mentions it in the year #affc4 8,about three miles further10 he says1 8,i came to ,scoale1 where there is a very handsome inne1 and the noblest signnepost in ,england1 about and upon which are carved a great many stories as of ,charon and ,cerberus1 ,acton and ,diana1 and many others2 the signe itself is a ,white ,hart1 which hanges downe carved in a stately wreath40 ,this king of signboards was built in the year #afee by ,james ,peck1 a merchant of ,norwich1 and is said to have cost over #a1jjj4 ,it was in existence up till the end of the last century4 ,goldsmith1 in making some comments on the influence of signs1 relates how 8an alehouse keeper1 near ,islington1 who had long lived at the sign of the ,french ,king1 upon the commencement of the last war1 pulled down his old sign and put up that of the ,queen of ,hungary4 ,under the influence of her red face and golden sceptre1 he continued to sell ale1 till she was no longer the favourite of his customers2 he changed her1 therefore1 some time ago1 for the ,king of ,prussia1 who may probably be changed in turn for the next great man that shall be set up for vulgar admiration40 ,an anecdote is related which illustrates the danger incurred by altering a sign4 ,it seems that the landlord of the ,magpie and ,crown in ,aldgate1 a house famous for its ale1 was minded to discard #bbb the ,magpie and to have his house known by the sign of the ,crown only4 ,he did so1 and the results were disastrous1 for the customers fancied that the ,crown ale did not taste as good as that formerly sent out from the ,magpie and ,crown1 and the custom fell off4 ,the landlord died1 and the business came into the hands of a waiter of the house1 one ,renton1 who restored the ,magpie to his old place on the signboard1 and with such good effect that on his death the ex-waiter left behind him an estate worth some #fjj1jjj1 chiefly the produce of the ,magpie and ,crown ale4 ,space only permits that we should mention a very few of the more curious signs in use4 ,the ,pig and ,whistle is said to be a corruption of the old sign the ,peg and ,wassail1 alluding to the peg-tankards introduced in ,saxon times4 ,the ,goose and ,gridiron is a whimsical variation on the ,swan and ,harp1 which was once common1 the inartistic execution of the latter sign no doubt affording the suggestion4 ,the ,tumbling ,down ,dick is supposed to be a derisive sign commemorating the fall of ,richard ,cromwell4 ,then ,dick1 being lame1 rode holding the pummel1 ,not having the wit to get hold of the rein2 ,but the jade did so snort at the sight of a ,cromwell1 ,that poor ,dick and his kindred turn'd footmen again4 ,the ,crooked ,billet is a sign for which it is difficult to suggest an explanation4 ,it is generally represented by a rough untrimmed stick hanging before the door4 ,near ,bridlington is one such1 to which are appended the following lines3-- ,when this comical stick grew in the wood ,our ale was fresh and very good2 ,step in and taste1 ,o do make haste1 ,for if you don't 'twill surely waste4 ,on the other side is the verse3-- ,when you have viewed the other side1 ,come read this too before you ride1 ,and now to end we'll let it pass2 ,step in1 kind friends1 and take a glass4 ,the ,bull and ,mouth1 a favourite ,london sign in former days1 and one still to be found1 is represented by a huge gaping mouth and a small black bull just within its verge4 ,this sign dates from the time of #bbc ,henry ,,viii41 and celebrates his capture of ,boulogne ,harbour1 or ,boulogne ,mouth4 ,the ,beetle and ,wedge at first sight seems a very strange association1 but when we remember ,shakspere's line1 ,filip me with a three-man beetle1 the matter is clear enough4 ,the 8three-man beetle0 was a hammer or mallet wielded by three men and used for pile driving4 ,the three ,lubberheads is a corruption of the three ,libbards' ,heads1 8libbard0 being a popular form of the word leopard2 ,falstaff is 8invited to dinner at the ,libbard's ,head in ,lumbert ,street to ,master ,smooth's the silkman40 ,the ,two ,pots was the sign under which the far-famed ale-wife1 ,eleanor ,rumyng1 brewed her 8noppy ale0 at ,leatherhead1 where1 according to ,skelton1 she made thereof fast sale1 ,to travellers1 to tinkers1 ,to sweaters1 to swinkers1 ,and all good ale drinkers4 ,the ,stewponey ,inn1 between ,kinver and ,stourbridge1 might suggest to some that the ,parisian ,hippophagic ,society was not much of a novelty after all4 ,it is therefore rather disappointing to find that the name is a popular version of the ,stourponte ,inn1 so called from a bridge over the ,stour hard by4 ,the ,four ,alls1 though probably once the sign of a house frequented by the fraternity of ,cobblers1 now generally presents itself in the following lines with suitable illustrations3-- ,the ,ploughman works for ,all1 ,the ,parson prays for ,all1 ,the ,soldier fights for ,all1 ,and the ,farmer pays for ,all4 ,it seems sad to think that in some places a pessimistic ,publican has added a fifth 8,all10 the picture representing the ,prince of ,darkness1 rampant1 and looking anything but 8a gentleman10 with the grim legend writ beneath that he 8takes ,all40 ,old ,pick-my-,toe would seem to be a popular perversion of the ,roman fable of the faithful slave who carried his message before he stooped to remove the thorn which was all the while in his foot4 ,the ,shoe and ,slap was an old sign1 the 8,slap0 being a lady's shoe with a loose sole4 #bbd ,a poetical landlord or a poetical customer has frequently produced verses1 more or less appropriate1 for a signboard4 ,we give a selection of these effusions4 ,at an inn at ,norwich1 known as the ,waterman1 kept by a barber1 this couplet is written under the sign3-- ,roam not from pole to pole1 but step in here1 ,where nought excels the shaving but the beer4 ,at an ,inn at ,collins' ,end1 where the unfortunate ,king ,charles1 while a prisoner at ,caversham1 is said to have played at bowls1 are these lines3-- ,stop1 traveller1 stop2 in yonder peaceful glade1 ,his favourite game the royal martyr played2 ,here stripped of honours1 children1 freedom1 rank1 ,drank from the bowl and bowled for what he drank2 ,sought in a cheerful glass his cares to drown1 ,and changed his guinea ere he lost his crown4 ,the ,robin ,hood and ,little ,john is not an uncommon sign in that part of the country which was the scene of their exploits1 and where their fame still lingers4 ,the sign is frequently accompanied with a rhyme1 of which the following is a specimen3-- ,to ,gentlemen and ,yeomen good1 ,come in and drink with ,robin ,hood1 ,if ,robin ,hood is not at home1 ,come in and drink with ,little ,john4 ,a tale is told of how a poor author1 who was once staying at the sign of the ,white ,horse on the ,old ,bath ,road1 after partaking rather heartily of the good cheer provided1 found that he could not discharge the shot4 ,in recompense to his host for letting him off1 he wrote beneath his signboard the lines3-- ,my ,white ,horse shall beat the ,bear1 ,and make the ,angel fly2 ,shall turn the ,ship quite bottom up1 ,and drink the ,three ,cups dry4 ,in consequence1 it is alleged1 of this facetious praise of his own house at the expense of his rivals1 mine host got a good deal of their custom4 ,on one of the windows of the same ,white ,horse was written3-- #bbe ,his liquor's good1 his pot is just1 ,the ,landlord's poor1 and cannot trust2 ,for he has trusted to his sorrow1 ,so pay to-day1 he'll trust to-morrow4 ,these lines occur on the signboard of the ,waggon and ,horses1 ,brighton3-- ,long have ,i travelled far and near1 ,on purpose to find out good beer1 ,and at last ,i've found it here4 ,the couplet1 written on a signboard at ,chadderton1 near ,manchester1 seems1 at any rate from the outside of the ,inn1 to be what a logician might call a non sequitur3-- ,although the engine's smoke be black1 ,if you walk in ,i've ale like sack4 ,the following doggerel inscription is said in the ,year ,book to have been written over the door of an ale house between ,sutton and ,potton1 in ,bedfordshire3-- ,butte ,beere1 ,solde ,hear1 by ,timothy ,dear4 ,cum4 tak4 a4 mugg of mye4 trinker4 cum trink4 ,thin4 a4 ful4 ,kart4 of mye4 verry4 stron4 drink ,harter1 that4 trye4 a4 cann4 of mye4 titter1 cum4 tatter ,and4 wynde4 hup4 withe1 mye4 sivinty-tymes weaker1 thin1 water4 ,at ,creggin1 ,montgomeryshire1 the ,rodney ,pillar ,inn is distinguished by a double signboard1 on one side of which is the following verse3-- ,under these trees1 in sunny weather1 ,just try a cup of ale1 however2 ,and if in tempest1 or in storm1 ,a couple then to make you warm3 ,but when the day is very cold4 ,then taste a mug a twelvemonth old4 ,on the reverse are these lines3-- ,rest and regale yourself1 'tis pleasant1 ,enough is all the present need1 ,that's the due of the hardy peasant1 ,who toils all sorts of men to feed4 #bbf ,then muzzle not the ox when he treads out the corn1 ,nor grudge honest labour its pipe and its horn4 ,another queer old inscription is the following3-- ,john ,uff ,sells good ale and that's enough2 ,a mistake here1 ,sells foreign spirits as well as beer4 ,at a public-house in ,devonshire the landlord has painted outside his door1 8,good beer sold here1 but don't take my word for it20 and at the ,bell ,inn1 ,oxford1 kept by ,john ,good1 are these lines3-- ,my name1 likewise my ale1 is ,good1 ,walk in and taste my own home brew'd1 ,for all that know ,john ,good can tell ,that like my sign it bears the ,bell4 ,one more example of ,boniface's wit must conclude this notice of ,signboard poesy4 ,at a public-house in ,sussex1 the sign of which is the ,white ,horse1 there is painted under the figure of that animal the couplet3-- ,to the roadsters who enter a welcome he snorts1 ,while they fill up his quarters and empty his quarts4 ,in addition to signboard verses1 inscriptions within the alehouse are by no means uncommon4 ,burns1 who was fond of this style of composition1 inscribed these lines on the window of the ,globe ,tavern at ,dumfries3-- ,the grey-beard1 old wisdom1 may boast of his treasures1 ,give me with gay folly to live2 ,i grant him his calm-blooded1 time-settled pleasures1 ,but ,folly has raptures to give4 ,dowie's ,tavern1 in ,libberton's ,wynd1 ,edinburgh1 was the favourite resort of ,burns1 and is said by the able recorder of the ,traditions of ,edinburgh 8to have been formerly as dark and plain an old-fashioned house as any drunken lawyer of the last century could have wished to nestle in40 #bbg ,dowie's was much resorted to by the ,lords of ,session for 8,meridians10 as well as in the evening for its ,edinburgh ale4 ,the ale was ,younger's4 ,that brewer1 together with his friends1 instituted a ,club there1 which they sportively called the 8,college of ,doway40 ,johnnie ,dowie is described as having been the sleekest and kindest of landlords4 ,nothing could equal the benignity of his smile when he brought in a bottle of 8the ,ale0 to a company of well-known and friendly customers4 ,it was a perfect treat to see his formality in drawing the cork1 his precision in filling the glasses1 his regularity in drinking the healths of all present in the first glass 7which he always did1 and at every successive bottle71 and then his douce civility in withdrawing4 ,johnnie always wore a cocked hat1 and buckles at knees and shoes1 as well as a crutched cane4#eb ,not so polished as ,burns' verses1 but perhaps more suited to the ,genius loci1 are the lines written up in a certain old tap-room3-- ,he that doath upon the table sit1 ,a pot of porter shall for-fe-it4 #eb ,hone's ,year ,book4 ,the following additional specimens of tap-room verse are typical of their kind1 and may be said to contain the be-all and end-all of the host's proverbial philosophy4 ,the first is taken from an ,inn at ,sittingbourne1 where it hangs framed and glazed over the door3-- ,call frequently1 ,drink moderately1 ,pay honourably1 ,be good company1 ,part friendly1 ,go home quietly4 ,the second is longer1 but perhaps not quite so comprehensive3-- ,all you that bring tobacco here1 ,must pay for pipes as well as beer2 ,and you that stand before the fire1 ,i pray sit down by good desire2 #bbh ,that other folks as well as you1 ,may see the fire and feel it too4 ,since man to man is so unjust1 ,i cannot tell what man to trust3 ,my ,liquor's good1 'tis no man's sorrow1 ,pay to-day4 ,i'll trust to-morrow4 ,it may not be amiss to devote a few lines to the signboard artists4 ,the following passage in ,whimzies3 or a ,new ,cast of ,characters 7#afca7 gives an early example of the way in which many a village signboard has been painted4 8,he 7a painter7 bestowes his ,pencile on an aged piece of decayed canvas in a sooty ale-house1 when ,mother ,redcap must be set out in her ,colours4 ,here hee and his barmy ,hostess drew both together1 but not in like nature2 she in ,ale1 he in ,oyle1 but her commoditie goes better downe1 which he meanes to have his full share of1 when his worke is done4 ,if she aspire to the ,conceite of a ,signe1 and desire to have her ,birch-pole pulled downe1 he will supply her with one40 ,it seems that in the last century1 the palmy days of signboards1 the best signs were produced by the coach-painters1 who derived their skill from the custom amongst the wealthy of having their coach panels decorated with a variety of subjects4 ,artists of renown have lent their genius to this branch of art4 ,hogarth painted a sign called the ,man loaded with ,mischief1 and this sign is still in existence in an alehouse in ,oxford ,street2 it represents a man bearing on his back and shoulders a woman1 a magpie and an ape4 ,a similar painting may be seen before an inn on the road to ,madingley1 about a mile from ,cambridge4 ,richard ,wilson1 ,r4,a41 painted a sign called ,the ,loggerheads1 which has given its name to a village near ,mold1 in ,north ,wales4 ,the ,royal ,oak1 by ,david ,cox1 which is the sign of an inn at ,bettws-y-,coed1 is well known to all lovers of ,north ,wales1 and was a few years ago the subject of a law-suit4 ,at ,wargrave1 a pretty ,thames-side village near ,henley1 is an inn called the ,george and ,dragon4 ,one side of its sign was painted by ,mr4 ,g4 ,d4 ,leslie1 ,r4,a41 who has chosen the battle with the dragon for his subject4 ,the other side was painted by ,mr4 ,hodgson1 ,a4,r4,a41 and is a representation of ,st4 ,george refreshing himself with a pot of beer after the mighty encounter4 ,not often1 however1 has the signboard been so fortunate as to obtain the attention of such masters of the limner's art4 #bbi ,in the vast majority of cases the village sign-painter has been a person of limited ideas and but small skill1 painting and re-painting the old familiar patterns4 ,the following tale is related illustrative of this conservative bent of the sign-painter's mind4 ,a pious old couple1 who had taken a ,public wherein they hoped peacefully to end their days1 determined that they would not have any of your common wordly signs1 such as the ,crown1 the ,blue ,boar1 and the like1 but something of a quite uncommon and even of a quasi-religious nature1 and after much cogitation their choice fell upon the title of the ,angel and ,trumpet4 ,the village sign-painter was summoned to the conclave1 and the case was solemnly opened to him4 ,landlord3 8,well1 ,john1 me and my missis have been thinking about this sign1 and we hear as you're up to painting amost anythink40 ,sign ,painter 7with proper professional pride73 8,yes1 mister1 ,i can do you pretty well what you like2 the ,red ,lion1 and so as that40 ,l43 8,no1 ,john1 that a'n't quite what we wants4 ,me and my missis has been a-thinking as we'd like to have the ,angel and ,trumpet4 ,now1 can you do it80 ,s4 ,p4 7doubtfully73 8,well1 mister1 ,i can do un2 but you'd better by half have the ,red ,lion2 it's a dell a thirstier sign40 ,l4 7with decision73 8,no1 ,john1 we must have the ,angel and ,trumpet1 so if you can't do un1 say so1 and we must get some un as can40 ,s4 ,p4 7driven to bay73 8,all right2 ,i'll paint the ,angel and ,trumpet1 but 7aside7 ,i specs it'll be a good dell like the ,red ,lion40 ,unfortunately the history breaks off at this point1 and we are left in doubt as to the result4 ,the troubles of the unfortunate sign-painter may be imagined2 the unwilling hands striving to depict the benign features of the angel2 the fierce and truculent visage of the lion making its appearance1 whether the artist would or not4 ,the unskilfulness of the signboard painter has even been considered of sufficient importance to form the subject of a ,royal ,proclamation4 ,our good ,queen ,bess1 with that vigour of language which endeared her to the hearts of her faithful subjects1 and proved her to be her father's daughter1 issued an order1 8that portraits of herself1 made by unskilful and common painters1 should be knocked in pieces1 and cast into the fire40 ,the reasons for this summary treatment1 and also a promised remedy for the woes of her faithful subjects1 thus deprived of the counterfeit presentment of her most gracious ,majesty1 are set forth in a proclamation shortly afterwards issued4 8,forasmuch0 said this weighty #bcj document1 8as thrugh the natural desire that all sorts of subjects and people1 both noble and mean1 have to procure the portrait and picture of the ,queen's ,majestie1 great nomber of ,paynters1 and some ,printers1 and ,gravers1 have already1 and doe daily1 attempt to make in divers manners portraictures of hir ,majestie1 in paynting1 graving and prynting1 wherein is evidently shown1 that hytherto none have sufficiently expressed the naturall representation of hir ,majestie's person1 favor1 and grace 4 4 4 4 8,therfor0--after much more to the same effect--8hir ,majestie being as it were overcome with the contynuall requests of hir ,nobility and ,lords1 whom she can not well deny1 is pleased that for their contentations1 some coning persons1 mete therefore1 shall shortly make a pourtraict of hir person or visage10 and1 in short1 that her loving subjects shall be enabled to take copies thereof1 but in the meantime shall perpetrate no further libellous 8pourtraicts10 under pains and penalties4 ,the phrase 8to grin like a ,cheshire cat0 is said to have originated from the well-meant but inartistic attempts of a sign-painter of that county to depict a ,lion ,rampant4 ,this chapter may be appropriately concluded with one of the best examples of the alehouse catch of former days3 ,bryng us in good ,ale1 contained in the ,ipswich ,song ,book 7,sloane ,collection of ,,mss474 ,our readers will be better able to comprehend the verses1 if they bear in mind that ys as a termination is used where we should now use es1 s1 se or ce4 ,,bryng ,,us ,,in ,,good ,,ale4 ,bryng us in good ale1 and bryng us in good ale1 ,for our blyssyd lady sak1 bryng us in good ale ,bryng us in no browne bred1 for that is mad of brane1 ,nor bryng us in no whyt bred1 for therein is no game4 ,but bryng us in good ale1 etc4 ,bryng us in no befe1 for ther is many bonys1 ,but bryng us in good ale1 for that goth downe at onys4 ,and bryng us in1 etc4 ,bryng us in no bacon1 for that is passyng fate1 ,but bryng us in good ale1 and give us i-nough of that4 ,but bryng us in1 etc4 #bca ,bryng us in no mutton1 for that is often lene1 ,nor bryng us in no trypes1 for they be syldom clene4 ,but bryng us in1 etc4 ,bryng us in no eggys1 for ther ar many shelles1 ,but bryng us in good ale1 and give us nothing ellys4 ,but bryng us in1 etc4 ,bryng us in no butter1 for therin are many herys1 ,nor bryng us in no pygge's flesch1 for that will make us borys4 ,but bryng us in1 etc4 ,bryng us in no podynges1 for therein is al ,gode's good1 ,nor bryng us in no venesen1 for that is not for our blod4 ,but bryng us in1 etc4 ,bryng us in no capon's flesch for that is ofte der1 ,nor bryng us in no doke's flesch for thei slober in mer 7mire74 ,but bryng us in good ale1 and bryng us in good ale1 ,for our blyssyd lady sak1 bryng us in good ale4 ,illustration #bcb ,illustration ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,sir ,toby4--8,dost thou think because thou art virtuous there shall be no more cakes and ale80 ,clown4--8,yes1 by ,saint ,anne2 and ginger shall be hot i' the mouth too40 ,twelfth ,night4 ,act ii4 ,sc4 #c4 ,england was ,merry ,england then1 ,old ,christmas brought his sports again1 ',twas ,christmas broached the mightiest ale1 ',twas ,christmas told the merriest tale2 ,a ,christmas gambol oft would cheer ,a poor man's heart through half the year4 ,marmion4 ,,ancient ,,merry-,,makings1 ,,feasts ,,and ,,ceremonies ,,peculiar ,,to ,,certain ,,seasons1 ,,at ,,which ,,ale ,,was ,,the ,,principal ,,drink4 -- ,,harvest ,,home1 ,,sheep ,,shearing1 ,,and ,,other ,,songs4 ,england was merry ,england then1 and whatever may be thought of the utility of attempting to revive the ancient sports and amusements of the people1 it is undeniable that when the old customs and games went out of vogue1 they left behind them a void which seems without any immediate prospect of being filled4 ,we have no doubt gained in many ways by changed habits of life and modes of thought1 but it must not be forgotten that at the same time life has lost much of its old picturesqueness and variety4 ,these simple1 hearty festivals of old1 in which our ancestors so much delighted1 served to light up the dull round of the recurring seasons1 and to mark with a red letter the day in the calendar appropriate to their celebration4 ,it was these that gained for our country in medival times the name of 8,merrie ,england40 ,the purpose of this chapter1 however1 is not to compose a dirge on the departed #bcc glories of our ,english merry-makings1 but rather to give in short limits some account of the principal feasts and ceremonies in which the national beverage1 personified by the familiar name of ,john ,barleycorn1 figured as a constant and well-tried friend1 a provocative to mirth and good feeling1 to jollity and hearty enjoyment4 ,the principal merry-makings of old ,england were associated with certain special days of the year1 or with various events1 important in the life of the people1 which though not fixed to any particular day in the calendar1 were from their nature connected with certain seasons4 ,may ,day and ,christmas ,day1 ,new ,year's ,eve and ,twelfth ,night1 the ,harvest ,home1 the ,sheep-shearing ,supper1 and many another minor festival1 all served to make the labourer's lot seem an easier one1 and to vary the monotonous round of toil4 ,herrick thus alludes to the number and variety of the sports and pastimes incidental to the country life in his day3-- ,thy wakes1 thy quintals1 here thou hast1 ,thy maypoles too with garlands graced1 ,thy morris dance1 thy ,whitsun-ale1 ,thy shearing feasts which never fail1 ,thy harvest home1 thy wassail bowl1 ,that's tossed up after fox-i'-th' hole1#ec ,thy mummeries1 thy twelfth-tide kings ,and queens1 thy ,xmas revellings1 ,thy nut-brown mirth1 thy russet wit1 ,and no man pays too dear for it4 ,in many a village at the present day the only representative1 if so it may be called1 of all these rustic jollifications1 is the annual dinner of the members of the sick club1 if funds will permit1 or perhaps tea and a magic lantern4 #ec ,fox-i'-th' hole the tongue4 ,where can we begin better than with ,new ,year's ,day and the ancient custom of the wassail8 ,new ,year's ,eve and ,new ,year's ,day were anciently1 and still are to some extent1 celebrated with various observances2 presents and good wishes for the coming year were freely exchanged1 and sometimes the lasses and lads would pay their neighbours the compliment of singing a carol to bury the old and usher in the glad new year4 ,but more generally the practice was observed of a #bcd crowd of youths and maidens entering their friends' houses in the first hours of ,new ,year's ,day1 bearing with them the wassail-bowl of spiced ale1 and singing verses appropriate to the occasion4 ,the origin of the name wassail and of the ceremonies connected with it1 is well known and better authenticated than that of most of our ancient customs4 ,rowena1 the daughter of ,hengist1 on being presented to ,vortigern at a feast which her father had prepared for him1 kneeled before him and offered him a bowl with the words 8,louerd king ws hil10 that is1 8,lord ,king1 your health40 ,vortigern is represented in ,layamon's ,brut as not understanding the phrase-- ,the ,king ,vortigerne ,haxede his cnihtes ,what were the speche ,that the mayde speke4 ,the answer is-- ,hit is the wone 7wont7 ,ine ,saxe-londe1 ,that freond saith to his freond1 ,wan he sal drink 8,leofue 7dear7 freond wassail10 ,the other saith 8drinc hail40 ,old ,geoffrey of ,monmouth1 after relating the legend1 remarks that from that time down to his own day it had been the custom in ,britain for one who drinks to another to say1 8,wacht heil60 and for that other who pledges him in return1 to answer1 8,drink heil60 ,the word wassail1 from being used to signify a pledge or greeting1 in time came to denote feasting in general1 and in the phrase1 8wassail-bowl10 to con-note the particular liquor1 spiced ale1 with which the bowl was filled4 ,milner1 in a dissertation on an ancient cup1 supposed to be a wassail-cup1 inserted in the eleventh volume of the ,archologia1 states that the introduction of ,christianity amongst our ancestors did not at all interfere with the practice of wassailing4 ,on the contrary1 the custom began to assume a sort of religious aspect2 and the wassail-bowl itself1 which in great monasteries was placed on the ,abbot's table1 at the upper end of the refectory1 to be circulated amongst the community at his discretion1 received the honourable appellation of ,poculum ,caritatis4 ,the wassail-bowl is probably the original of the ,grace ,cup and ,loving ,cup4 #bce ,it was also customary in some places for the poor of a village at ,christmas time or on ,new ,year's ,eve1 to go round to the doors of their richer neighbours1 bearing a wassail-bowl1 decked with ribbons and a golden apple1 and singing a carol appropriate to the occasion4 ,this interesting custom is still carried out to the letter at ,chippenham1 in ,wiltshire4 ,on ,christmas ,eve five or six burly labourers1 carrying a bowl gaily decorated with ribbons1 go round from house to house and sing a peculiarly quaint rhyme1 of much the same character as that given below1 which was once common in ,gloucestershire1 particularly in the neighbourhood of 8,stow on the ,wold where the wind blows cold40 ,wassail6 wassail6 all over the town1 ,our toast it is white1 and our ale it is brown2 ,our bowl is made of a maplin-tree2 ,we be good fellows all2--,i drink to thee4 ,here's to our horse1 and to his right ear1 ,god send our measter a happy new year2 ,a happy new year as e'er he did see1-- ,with my wassailing bowl ,i drink to thee4 ,here's to our mare1 and to her right eye1 ,god send our mistress a good ,christmas pie2 ,a good ,christmas pie as e'er ,i did see1-- ,with my wassailing bowl ,i drink to thee4 ,here's to our cow1 and to her long tail1 ,god send our measter us never may fail ,of a cup of good beer3 ,i pray you draw near1 ,and our jolly wassail it's then you shall hear4 ,be here my maids8 ,i suppose here be some2 ,sure they will not let young men stand on the cold stone6 ,sing hey ,o1 maids6 come trole back the pin1 ,and the fairest maid in the house1 let us all in4 ,come1 butler1 come1 bring us a bowl of the best1 ,i hope your soul in heaven will rest2 ,but if you do bring us a bowl of the small1 ,then down fall butler1 and bowl1 and all4 #bcf ,from this wassail-song it may be gathered that the persons visited were expected to contribute to the wassail-bowl4 ,another example of a wassailing song begins thus3-- ,here we come a-wassailing ,among the leaves so green2 ,here we come a wandering1 ,so fair to be seen4 ,chorus--,love and joy come to you1 ,and to your wassail too1 ,and ,god send you a happy new year--new year2 ,and ,god send you a happy new year2 ,our wassail cup is made of the rosemary tree1 ,so is your beer of the best barley4 ,a quaint custom1 doubtless a survivor from pagan times1 was wassailing the fruit trees with a view to a productive crop in the coming year4 ,in some places the trees were wassailed on ,new ,year's ,eve1 in others on ,christmas ,eve4 ,the pretty superstition has been commemorated by ,herrick in the lines3-- ,wassaile the trees1 that they may beare ,you many a plum and many a peare2 ,for more or lesse fruits they will bring1 ,as you do give them wassailing4 ,in ,devonshire the eve of the ,epiphany was devoted to this custom1 and in that apple-bearing country1 cider was the wassail used on the occasion1 and the apple tree the chief recipient of the country folks' good wishes4 ,the wassailers1 with good supply of their favourite beverage1 would proceed to some gnarled and crooked1 but productive apple tree1 and there1 forming a circle about his ancient trunk1 would drink his health with some such incantation as this3-- ,here's to thee1 old apple tree1 ,whence thou mayest bud1 and whence thou mayest blow1 ,and whence thou mayst bear apples enow4 ,hats full1 caps full1 ,bushel1 bushel1 sacks full1 ,and my pockets full too2 hurrah6 #bcg ,a variety of the ,new ,year's ,wassail-,bowl custom was1 until a few years ago1 practised in ,scotland4 ,what is called a hot pint 7i4e41 a great kettle full of hot sweetened ale71 was prepared1 and when the clock had sounded out the knell of the old year1 each member of the family drank 8,a good health and a ,happy ,new ,year to all40 ,a move was then made by the revellers with what remained of the hot pint1 and a store of short-bread and bun to visit their friends and neighbours1 and to give them seasonable greeting4 ,if the party were the first to enter a friend's house since twelve o'clock had struck1 they were called the first foot1 and must come in with hands full of cakes1 of which all the inmates must partake2 and so they went from house to house until either their endurance or that long1 long hot pint1 failed4 ,even within this century the custom was so religiously observed that the streets of ,edinburgh are described as having been more thronged at midnight than at mid-day4 ,this old practice is said to have received its death-blow in #ahab1 when the descent of gangs of thieves and pickpockets upon the wassailers caused such scenes of rioting and violence that1 after languishing for a few years1 it came to an untimely end4 ,it was customary at the beginning of the present century for the inhabitants of the parish of ,deerness1 in ,orkney1 to assemble on ,new ,year's ,eve1 and pay a round of visits through the district1 drinking their neighbours' healths1 and singing various old songs1 of which the following may be taken as a specimen3-- ,this night it is guid ,new ,year's ,e'en night ,we're a' here ,queen ,mary's ,men2 ,and we're come here to crave our right1 ,and that's before our lady4 99 99 99 99 99 ,gae fill the three pint cog o' ale1 ,the maut maun be aboun the meal4 ,we houp your ale is stark and stout ,for men to drink the old year out4 ,the composition of the wassail-bowl has been dealt with elsewhere1 and it only remains to be added that though the drinking of its spiced contents was very usual on ,new ,year's ,eve1 it was not peculiar to that day1 but accompanied most occasions of medival festivity1 and1 indeed1 was so common that in the days of ,queen ,elizabeth the wassail-bowl was frequently referred to by the writers of that ,golden ,age of ,english #bch literature as symbolical of feasting and good cheer in general4 ,it is thus that ,herrick mentions it in his beautiful little poem1 entitled ,a ,thanksgiving for his ,house3-- ,lord1 ,i confess too when ,i dine1 ,the pulse is thine1 ,and all those other bits that be ,there placed by ,thee4 ,the worts1 the purslain1 and the mess ,of water-cress1 ,which of ,thy kindness ,thou hast sent3 ,and my content ,makes those1 and my beloved beet1 ,to be more sweet4 ',tis ,thou that crown'st my glittering hearth ,with guiltless mirth2 ,and giv'st me wassail bowls to drink1 ,spiced to the brink4 ,twelfth ,night was specially celebrated with wassailing1 accompanied with the consumption of spiced cakes1 the combination giving rise to the phrase 8cakes and ale40 ,illustration3 8,cakes and ,ale40 ,from the 8,good-,fellow's ,counsel1 or the ,bad ,husband's ,recantation40 7,roxburghe ,ballads74 #bci ,the twelfth day after ,christmas was celebrated in the old days in honour of the three ,kings1 as the ,wise ,men were called who came out of the ,east to worship the ,messiah4 ,one of the chief ceremonies connected with the day was the election of the ,king and ,queen of the ,bean4 ,a large cake--the ,twelfth ,cake--had been previously made1 in which a bean and a pea were inserted1 the cake was cut up and distributed by lot among the company1 and whoever got the piece which contained the bean was crowned ,king of the ,bean1 while the pea conferred the distinction of ,queen upon its happy recipient4 ,now1 now the mirth comes1 ,with the cake full of plums1 ,where beane's the king of the sport here2 ,besides we must know1 ,the pea also ,must revell as queene in the court here4 99 99 99 99 99 ,give then to the king ,and queen wassailing2 ,and though with ale ye be whet here1 ,yet part ye from hence1 ,as free from offence ,as when ye innocent met here4#ed #ed ,herrick's ,twelfth ,night4 ,dr4 ,plot1 in his ,natural ,history of ,staffordshire 7#afhe71 describes a curious custom called the ,hobby-horse dance1 which he says had been practised at ,pagets ,bromley within memory of persons living when he wrote4 ,on ,twelfth ,day a man on a hobby-horse used to dance down the village street1 holding in his hand a bow and arrow1 and accompanied by six men1 carrying deers' heads on their shoulders4 8,to this ,hobby-horse dance10 says our author1 8there also belong'd a pot1 which was kept by turnes by #d or #e of the chief of the ,tow1 whom they call'd ,reeves1 who provided ,cakes and ,ale to put in this pot2 all people who had any kindness for the good intent of the ,institution of the sport1 giving pence a piece for themselves and families2 and so forraigners too1 that came to see it3 with which mony 7the charge of the ,cakes and ,ale being defrayed7 they not only repaired their ,church but #bdj kept their poore too3 which charges are not now perhaps so cheerfully boarn40 ,it would be going too far from the special subject of this work to detail the more elaborate festivities of the ,court and the ,universities1 or the masques and revels of those ancient abodes of legal learning1 the ,inns of ,court1 where ,twelfth ,night formed the annual excuse for much feasting and pageantry4 ,on these occasions1 no doubt1 costly wines and liqueurs formed the staple of the liquids consumed1 ,both ,ippocras and ,vernage wine ,mount ,rose and wine of ,greek1 and not the honest juice of barley4 ,suffice it to note in passing that on the #bnd of ,february1 #afja1 ,john ,manningham1 a student of the ,middle ,temple1 records in his ,diary3 8,at our feast we had a play called ,twelfth ,night or ,what ,you ,will40 ,this is the earliest recorded mention of that grand ,twelfth-night revel1 and was1 perhaps1 its first performance4 ,the appearance of ,twelfth ,cake is the signal for the disappearance of mince pies1 in accordance with the farewell words an old carolist puts into the mouth of ,christmas3-- ,mark well my heavy doleful tale1 ,for ,twelfth-day now is come1 ,and now ,i must no longer stay ,and say no word but mum4 ,for ,i1 perforce1 must take my leave ,of all my dainty cheer-- ,plum porridge1 roast beef1 and minced-pies1 ,my strong ale and my beer4 ,a minor festival1 ,plough ,monday1 used to be celebrated on the first ,monday after ,twelfth ,night4 ,a plough1 dressed up with ribbons by the villagers1 was taken round from house to house4 ,its escort consisted of a number of rustics dressed up in various mummers' guises1 and chanting verses1 the text of which was 8,god speed the ,plough40 ,the principal performers were ,bessy and the ,clown1 ,bessy being1 in fact1 a man dressed up in fantastic female weeds4 ,bread1 cheese1 and ale were asked for at the farmhouses and seldom refused1 and a variety of curious dances and uncouth antics completed the entertainment of the day4 #bda ,the season of ,lent1 of course1 was marked by no special festivities1 but when ,easter ,sunday was passed1 the reaction from the enforced restraint of the previous period made the enjoyment of the ,easter-week festivities all the keener4 ,easter ,monday and ,tuesday were in some places noted for the curious custom known as 8heaving20 on the ,monday the men 8heaved0 the women 7i4e41 lifted them off the ground and kissed them71 and on the ,tuesday the women's turn came1 and they heaved the men4 8,many a time have ,i passed along the streets inhabited by the lower orders of people10 says one who has witnessed the ceremony1 8and seen parties of ,jolly matrons assembled round tables on which stood a foaming tankard of ,ale4 ,woe to the luckless man that dared to invade their prerogatives6 as sure as seen he was pursued1 as sure taken1 heaved and kissed1 and compelled to pay a fine of sixpence for #8leave and license' to depart40 ,the antiquity of the custom is proved by an entry in one of the ,tower ,rolls of payments made to certain maids-of-honour for having taken ,edward ,i4 in his bed and 8lifted him40 ,the second ,monday and ,tuesday after ,easter were known in olden days as ,hock-tide4 ,the ,tuesday was the principal day1 and was designated ,hock ,day4 ,many derivations have been suggested for the name2 the best seems to be that which connects it with the ,german hoch 7high74 ,hock ,day would thus denote a day of high festivity4 ,be that as it may1 the name is of great antiquity4 ,in the ,annals of ,dunstaple we read that in #abdb 8,henry ,,iii41 ,king of ,england1 crossed over on ,ochedai with a great army against the ,king of ,france40 ,on ,hock ,day the women of the village would go into the streets with cords in their hands1 and every one of the opposite sex whom they could catch1 was bound until he purchased his release by a contribution for the purposes of the common feast4 ,on this day the feasting seems to have frequently passed into excess1 and sometimes with direful results2 the ,annalist of ,dunstaple tells that on ,hokke-day in the year #abeb the village of ,esseburne was 8burned down miserably40 ,in #adej a ,bishop of ,worcester prohibited the celebrations of ,hock-tide1 on the ground that they led to dissipation and other evils4 ,there seems to be no connection between this festival and the ,hock-cart spoken of by ,herrick1 and to be mentioned anon1 save that the name of each takes its derivation1 if our surmise be the correct one1 from the word hoch4 ,the ,hock ,day meaning ,high ,day2 and the ,hock ,cart1 the harvest-home wain piled high with the trophies of autumn4 ,we next come to the ,may ,day festivities1 which in many respects #bdb may be regarded as the most joyous and picturesque of all the year4 ,without staying to inquire whether the origin of the festival is to be traced to the old ,roman ,floralia1 or games in honour of the goddess who ushered in the spring and strewed the earth with flowers1 let us pause for a while to contemplate the old ceremony of 8bringing home the ,may10 as it was performed some few centuries ago4 ,on ,may ,day morning the inhabitants of every village would go out at an early hour into the fields to gather garlands of hawthorn blossom and other flowers1 with which they decorated the ,may-pole and every door and window of the village4 ,these floral trophies were brought home to the tune of pipe and drum2 the fairest maid in all the hamlet was crowned with flowers as ,queen of the ,may1 and1 embowered in hawthorn branches1 presided over the mirth and feasting of the day4 ,stubbe1 in his ,anatomy of ,abuses 7#aehe71 describes the ceremony of raising the ,may-pole1 in language which gives some notion of the pretty scene1 and which is all the more likely not to be overdrawn1 from the evident abhorrence of the writer to what he regarded as the impiety of the whole affair4 8,they have twenty or fourtie yoke of oxen10 he writes1 8every one having a sweet nosegay of flowers tyed on the tippe of his hornes1 and these oxen draw home this ,maie pole 7this stinckyng ,idoll rather7 which is couered all ouer with flowers and hearbes bounde rounde aboute with stringes1 from the top to the bottome1 and sometyme painted with variable colours1 with two or three hundred women and children following it with great devotion4 ,and thus being reared up with handkerchiefs and flagges streaming on the toppe they strowe the grounde aboute1 binde green boughes aboute it1 sett up sommer houses1 ,bowers and ,arbours hard by it4 ,and then fall they to banquet and feast1 to leape and daunce aboute it1 as the ,heathen people did at the dedication of their ,idolles1 whereof this is a perfect pattern or rather the thing itself40 ,the ,may-pole once raised1 of course the next thing to be done was to pour a libation in honour of the day1 and in most cases this would1 equally of course1 be performed with the ale of ,old ,england4 ,the ,may-pole is up1 ,now give me the cup1 ,i'll drink to the garlands around it1 ,but first unto those1 ,whose hands did compose1 ,the glory of flowers that crown'd it4 #bdc ,in olden days even the ,king and ,queen condescended to mingle with their lieges1 and to assist in commemorating the time-honoured custom4 ,chaucer1 in his ,court of ,love1 describes how on ,may ,day1 8,forth goeth all the ,court both most and least1 to fetch the flowers fresh40 ,spenser1 in his ,shepherd's ,calendar1 thus describes the ,may ,day festival of ,elizabethan times3-- ,siker this morrow1 no longer ago1 ,i saw a shole of shepherds out go ,with singing and shouting and jolly cheer2 ,before them rode a lusty ,tabrere1 ,that to the many a hornpipe played1 ,whereto they dancen each one with his maid4 ,to see these folks make such jouissance1 ,made my heart after the pipe to dance4 ,then to the green-wood they speeden them all1 ,to fetchen home ,may with their musical2 ,and home they bring him in a royal throne ,crowned as king2 and his queen attone ,was ,lady ,flora1 on whom did attend ,a fair flock of fairies1 and a fresh bend ,of lovely nymphs--,o that ,i were there ,to helpen the ladies their ,may-bush to bear6 ,probably the most famous ,may-pole that ever existed was the one which gave its name to the parish of ,st4 ,andrew-,undershaft4 ,it was of such a height that it towered above all the houses and even above the church spire4 ,chaucer alludes to this mighty pole in the lines3-- ,right well aloft and high ye beare your head1 ,as ye would beare the greate shaft of ,cornhill4 ,when this ,may-pole was not required for festive purposes1 it lay suspended on great iron hooks above the doors of the neighbouring houses4 ,in the reign of ,edward ,,vi41 after a sermon preached at the cross of ,st4 ,paul's against the iniquity of ,may games1 the inhabitants of these houses in a fit of pious enthusiasm1 desiring1 doubtless1 to replenish their wood-cellars and to destroy an 8idoll0 at the same time1 cut the pole in pieces1 each man retaining that portion of it which had been before his house4 ,the ,may-pole in the ,strand was another celebrated #bdd shaft4 ,it was erected at the ,restoration1 when there was a revival of the popular sports which the sour-faced ,puritans had so unsparingly condemned4 ,it was #acd ft4 high1 and was raised with great ceremony and public rejoicings4 ,at ,helston1 in ,cornwall1 on the #hth of ,may1 called 8,furry ,day10 may still be witnessed a survival of the old ,may ,day festivities4 ,very early in the morning the young men and maidens of the place go off into the country to breakfast4 ,about seven o'clock they return bearing green branches1 and decked with flowers1 they dance through the streets to the tune of the 8,furry ,dance40 ,at eight o'clock the 8,hal-an-,tow0 7,heel and ,toe87 song is sung1 and dancing and merriment fill the remainder of the day4 ,,the ,,hal-,,an-,,tow4 ,robin ,hood and little ,john1 ,they both are gone to fair ,o 6 ,and we will go to the merry green wood1 ,to see what they to do there ,o 6 ,and for to chase ,o 6 ,to chase the buck and doe ,o 6 ,with ,hal-an-tow1 ,jolly rumble ,o 6 ,chorus3 ,and we were up as soon as any day ,o 6 ,and for to fetch the summer home1 ,the ,summer and the ,may ,o 6 ,for ,summer is a come ,o 6 ,and ,winter is a gone ,o 6 ,where are those ,spaniards ,that makes so great a boast ,o 6 ,they shall eat the grey goose feather ,and we will eat the roast ,o 6 ,in every land ,o 6 ,the land where'er we go1 ,with ,hal-an-tow1 ,jolly rumble ,o 6 ,chorus3 ,and we were up1 c4 #bde ,as for ,st4 ,george ,o 6 ,st4 ,george he was a knight ,o 6 ,of all the knights in ,christendom ,st4 ,george he is the right ,o 6 ,in every land ,o 6 ,the land where'er we go1 ,with ,hal-an-tow1 ,jolly rumble ,o 6 ,chorus3 ,and we were up1 c4 ,god bless ,aunt ,mary ,moyses1 ,and all her power and might ,o 6 ,and send us peace in merry ,england1 ,both day and night ,o 6 ,and send us peace in merry ,england1 ,both now and evermore ,o 6 ,with ,hal-an-tow1 ,jolly rumble ,o 6 ,chorus3 ,and we were up1 c4 ,the custom is popularly attributed to the escape of the town from the threatened attack of a fiery dragon1 who1 in days when dragons were more common than they are now1 hung in mid-air over the place1 driving the inhabitants to the greenwood tree for shelter4 ,on his disappearance the people returned with great rejoicings and to this day commemorate their fortunate escape4 ,the true explanation is probably that the festival is simply a survival of the old celebration in honour of ,flora4 ,in some few country villages a ,may-pole still survives4 ,one such is to be seen in the little village of ,welford1 in ,gloucestershire1 painted in stripes of red1 white1 and blue4 ,it was decked with flowers on ,may ,day not many years ago1 owing to the exertions of some of the local lovers of things ancient2 but the genuine spirit of the festival seems to have entirely disappeared1 and the ceremony has not been repeated4 ,what's not destroyed by ,time's relentless hand8 ,where's ,troy8 and where's the ,may-pole in the ,strand8 ,in the early days of ,may occur what used to be known as the ,gange ,days1 on which the ceremony of beating the parish bounds was1 and still #bdf is in some places1 undertaken1 the work of the day being wound up by a more or less liberal distribution of buns and ale4 ,sums of money were occasionally left to provide the refreshments for these parish perambulations4 ,at ,edgcott1 in ,buckinghamshire1 there was an acre of land called 8,gang ,monday ,land10 the income of which was devoted to the provision of cakes and ale for those who took part in the business of the day2 and in ,clifton ,reynes1 in the same county1 a devise of land for a like purpose provides that one small loaf1 a piece of cheese1 and a pint of ale1 should be given to every married person1 and half a pint of ale to every unmarried person1 resident in ,clifton1 when they walked the parish boundaries in ,rogation week4 ,when ,whitsuntide came round1 the time arrived for those quaint festivals to which ,ale gave not only his support1 but also his name1 and which were known as ,whitsun ,ales4 ,the ,whitsun ,ale was a special form of the ,church ,ale1 to be mentioned anon4 ,it is thus described by an old writer3--8,two young men of the ,parish are yerely chosen by their last foregoers to be wardens1 who1 dividing the task1 make collection among the parishioners of whatsoever provision it pleaseth them voluntarily to bestow4 ,this they employ in brewing1 baking1 and other acates#ee against ,whitsuntide2 upon which holy days the neighbours meet at the ,church-house1 and there merrily feed on their owne victuals contributing some petty portion to the stock1 which by many smalls1 groweth to a meetly greatness3 for there is entertayned a kind of emulation between these wardens1 who1 by his graciousness in gathering1 and good husbandry in expending1 can best advance the churche's profit4 ,besides1 the neighbour parishes at those times lovingly visit each one another1 and this way frankly spend their money together4 ,the afternoones are consumed in such exercises as olde and yong folke 7having leisure7 doe accustomably weare out the time withall4 ,when the feast is ended1 the wardens yield in their account to the parishioners3 and such money as exceedeth the disbursement is layd up in store1 to defray any extraordinary charges arising in the parish1 or imposed on them for the good of the country1 or the prince's service3 neither of which commonly so gripe but that somewhat still remayneth to cover the purse's bottom40 #ee acates purchases4 ,the ,morris ,dancers regarded ,whitsuntide as their chief festival4 ,introduced into this country from ,spain1 the ,morisco or ,moorish #bdg ,dance had1 in the reign of ,henry ,,viii41 attained a great popularity4 ,there seems to have been at that time two principal performers1 ,robin ,hood and ,maid ,marian2 then there was a friar1 a piper1 a fool1 and the rank and file of the dancers4 ,in the parish accounts of ,kingston-on-,thames for the year #aecg the ,morris ,dancers' wardrobe1 then in the charge of the churchwardens1 consisted of 8,a fryers cote of russet and a kyrtele weltyd with red cloth1 a ,mowren's 7,moor's7 cote of buckram1 and four morres daunsars cotes of white fustian spangelid and two gryne saten cotes1 and disardde's 7fool's7 cote of cotton1 and six payre of garters with belles40 ,in ,elizabethan times the ,morris ,dance1 and indeed every other kind of picturesque country festivity1 may be said to have reached the zenith of popularity1 soon1 alas6 to be followed by the chilling austerity of the ,puritans1 of whom it was so truly said that they 8like nothing2 no state1 no sex2 music1 dancing1 etc41 unlawful even in kings2 no kind of recreation1 no kind of entertainment1--no1 not so much as hawking2 all are damned40 ,these teach that ,dauncing is a ,jezabell ,and barley-break the ready way to ,hell1 ,the ,morrice1 ,idolls2 ,whitson-ale can bee ,but profane ,reliques of a ,jubilee4#ef #ef ,thomas ,randal--,annalia ,dubrensia4 ,whitsuntide1 with its lengthening days1 was specially set apart for sports and old-fashioned games1 and amongst the many meetings for such purposes1 none attained a wider popularity than the ,cotswold or ,dover's ,games4 ,those who are familiar with the country made classic by its associations with the great ,master of ,english poetry1 know well the green hill1 still called ,dover's ,hill1 which forms an outpost of the main body of the ,cotswolds1 and overlooks the smiling vale of ,evesham4 ,on this spot1 time out of mind1 rural sports and festivities had been held under the name of the ,cotswold ,games4 8,how does your fallow greyhound1 sir80 says ,slender to ,page1 8,i heard say he was outrun at ,cotsale40 ,this was the site chosen by ,robert ,dover1 an attorney of ,barton-on-the-,heath1 for the enlargement and perpetuation of those national sports in which he took so keen an interest1 and which he #bdh hoped would counteract the narrow spirit of bigotry which was beginning in his day to curtail the innocent amusements of the people4 ,armed with a formal authority from ,king ,james1 ,dover was so successful in his organization of the ,games that1 with a short interregnum during the ,commonwealth days1 their popularity continued until well into the present century4 ,a curious old volume of poems1 called ,annalia ,dubrensia1 published in #afcf1 contains many quaint descriptions of the ,games and their object4 ,drayton1 ,ben ,jonson1 ,thomas ,randall and others of lesser note1 contributed each a poem to this collection4 ,one of the contributors thus eulogises the sports and their patron3-- 4 4 4 4 4 4 ,oh most famous ,greece6 ,that for brave ,pastimes1 wert earth's ,master-piece6 ,had not our ,english ,,dover1 thus out-done ,thy foure games1 with his ,cotswoldian one4 ,dover himself composed the poem which closes the volume4 ,some of his motives he thus describes3-- ,i've heard our fine refined clergy teach1 ,of the commandments1 that it is a breach ,to play at any game for gain or coin2 ',tis theft they say2 men's goods you do purloin2 ,one silly beast another to pursue ',gainst nature is1 and fearful to the view1 ,and man with man their activeness to try ,forbidden is--much harm doth come thereby2 ,had we their faith to credit what they say1 ,we must believe all sports are ta'en away2 ,whereby ,i see1 instead of active things1 ,what harm the same unto our nation brings2 ,the pipe and pot are made the only prize ,which all our spriteful youth do exercise4 99 99 99 99 99 ,yet ,i was bold for better recreation ,t'invent these sports to countercheck that fashion1 ,and bless the troope that come our sports to see1 ,with hearty thankes and friendly courtesie #bdi ,illustration3 ,cotswold ,games4 ,the nature of the sports may be gathered from an inspection of the curious old cut taken from the frontispiece of the above-named work4 ,dancing1 tumbling1 wrestling1 sword-play1 quarter-staff1 cudgel play1 casting the hammer1 dog-racing1 horse-racing1 coursing--must have made up a highly varied programme1 while the table in the midst of the field of view shows1 both by its conspicuous position and by the size of the cups and tankards in use1 that the good creatures1 meat and ale1 were by no means neglected4 ,the wonderful structure at the top of the picture represents the wooden castle erected every year1 and called ,dover ,castle in honour of the founder of the sports4 ,the artist does not appear to have quite done justice to his subject if we may credit the account of the ,castle given by one of the versifiers3-- #bej ,what ,ingineere1 or cunning ,architect ,a ,fabricke of such pompe did ere erect8 ,i've heard men talk1 of ,castles in the aire1 ,inchanted ,cells1 ,towers1 ,pageants most faire1 ,fortifications1 ,trophies1 ,theaters1 ,laborinths1 ,puppet-workes1 strange ,meteores1 ,of those that have their substance wholie spent ,to shew their ,puppets dauncing with content2 ,of ,egypts ,pharoes stately glasen ,tower1 ,built by ,king ,ptolomies' art magick power1 ,of ,cheops1 ,pyramids2 of ,rhodes ,colosse1 ,of ,joves ,olympick golden ,ivorie ,bosse4 ,these to thy famous works compared will be ,of small account2 like them in no degree4 ,the figure of the founder occupies a prominent place in the foreground4 ,he used to appear in clothes that had belonged to ,king ,james1 and it is said wore them with much greater dignity than did the ,king4 ,dover seems to have been a remarkable person in more ways than one1 as may be gathered from the following quaint note1 to be found in one of the editions of the ,annalia3--8,he was bred an ,attorney1 who never try'd but two causes1 always made up the ,difference40 ,the next in order of the country celebrations in which ale formed the principal drink1 were the sheep-shearing feasts1 formerly so common1 but now in most places things of the past4 ,many songs have been preserved which record these old merry-makings when the day's work was done1 and the farm labourers were gathered round their master's hospitable board4 ,one of these1 taken from the ,sussex ,archological ,collections1 is given below4 ,it is a sample of many4 ,come all my jolly boys1 and we'll together go ,abroad with our masters1 to shear the lamb and ewe4 99 99 99 99 99 ,and there we must work hard1 boys1 until our backs do ache1 ,and our master he will bring us beer whenever we do lack4 99 99 99 99 99 ,and then our noble captain doth unto our master say1 8,come1 let us have one bucket of your good ,ale1 ,i pray0 ,he turns unto our captain1 and makes him this reply #beb 8,you shall have the best of beer1 ,i promise1 presently10 ,then out with the bucket pretty ,bess she doth come1 ,and master says 8,mind1 mind and see that every man has some40 ,this is some of our pastime while the sheep we do shear1 ,and though we are such merry boys1 we work hard1 ,i declare2 ,and when 'tis night1 and we have done1 our master is more free1 ,and stores us well with good strong beer1 and pipes and tobaccee ,so we do sit and drink1 we smoke1 and sing and roar1 ,till we become more merry far than e'er we were before1 ,when all our work is done1 and all our sheep are shorn1 ,then home to our ,captain1 to drink the ,ale that's strong4 ',tis a barrel1 then1 of hum cup1 which we call the black ram1 ,and we do sit and swagger1 and swear that we are men2 ,but yet before 'tis night1 ,i'll stand you half a crown1 ,that if you ha'nt a special care1 the ram will knock you down4 ,illustration3 ,the ,merry ,bagpipes4 ,the ,pleaant ,patime betwixt a ,jolly ,shepherd and a ,country ,damel on a ,midummer-,day in the ,morning4 ,to the tune of ,march ,boys1 c4 ,a ,shepherd at him under a ,thorn he pulled out his pipe and began for to play ,it was on a ,mid-,summer's-day in the ,morn for honour of that ,holy-day3 ,a ,ditty he did chant along goes to the tune of ,cater-,bordee1 ,and this was the burden of his ong if thou wilt pipe lad1 ,i'll ,dance to thee ,to thee1 to thee1 derry1 derry1 to thee1 c4 ,roxburghe ,ballads4 ,the ,haymakers' song given below is1 or rather was1 a great favourite at festive gatherings during the hay harvest3-- ,in the merry month of ,june1 ,in the prime time of the year2 ,down in yonder meadows ,there runs a river clear2 ,and many a little fish ,doth in that river play2 ,and many a lad and many a lass1 ,go abroad a-making hay4 ,in come the jolly mowers1 ,to mow the meadows down2 ,with budget and with bottle ,of ale both stout and brown4 ,all labouring men of courage bold ,come here their strength to try2 ,they sweat and blow1 and cut and mow1 ,for the grass cuts very dry4 ,gratitude to the ,giver of all good things has been the mainspring of rejoicings that in nearly all nations have celebrated the safe #bec ingathering of the fruits of the earth4 ,in ,england the festival is known by the expressive title of the ,harvest ,home4 ,an ancient ballad expresses ,the ,farmer's ,delight in the ,merry ,harvest3-- ,come all my ,lads and ,lasses ,let us together go1 ,to the pleasant ,corn-field1 ,our courage for to show1 ,with sickle and with knapsack1 ,so well we clean our ,land1 ,the ,farmer crys work on ,boys ,here's ,beer at your command4 ,in a good old ,leather ,bottle1 ,of ale that is so brown1 ,we'll cut and strip together1 ,until the ,sun goes down2 ,every morning ,sun1 ,the small ,birds they do sing2 ,the ,echoes of their ,harmony1 ,do make the ,wood to ring4 ,young ,nanny she came to me1 ,some wheat-seed for to lase4#eg ,she is a pretty ,creature1 ,i must speak in her ,praise3 ,i wish she was some keeper1 ,she is my whole delight ,in the ,groves and ,forests1 ,to range both ,day and ,night4 ,thus the industrious ,farmer ,by the ,sweat of his ,brow ,he labours and endeavours ,to make his ,barley ,mow4 ,sir ,john produces ,liquor1 ',tis very often said1 ,good ,beer makes ,good ,blood ,good ,blood makes pretty maid4 #bed ,when ,harvest it is over ,and the ,corn secure from ,harm ,and for to go to ,market1 ,we must thrash in the ,barn4 ,the ,flail which we do handle ,so stoutly we do swing1 ,and after ,harvest ,supper1 ,so merry we will sing3 ,with good ,success to the ,farmer1 ,or else we are to blame1 ,i wish them ,health and ,happiness1 ,till ,harvest comes again4 ,beer has always been the drink in the harvest field4 ,beneath some shelt'ring heap of yellow corn ,rests the hoop'd keg1 and friendly cooling horn1 ,that mocks alike the goblet's brittle frame1 ,it's costlier potions1 and its nobler name4 ,to ,mary first the brimming draught is given1 ,by toil made welcome as the dews of heaven1 ,and never lip that press'd its homely edge1 ,had kinder blessings or a heartier pledge4 #eg ,to lase or lease1 provincial term for 8to glean40 ,in most parts of ,england the grain last cut was brought home in the ,hock ,cart or ,horkey ,cart4 ,the name 8,horkey10 is probably a corruption of 8,hock10 and is equivalent to the ,german hoch1 the allusion being to the wain piled high with sheaves4 ,the cart decked with ribbons and surmounted with a sheaf dressed up to represent a woman--perhaps ,ceres1 goddess of the harvest2 the horses pranked out in gay trappings2 a crowd of labourers and all the youthful inhabitants of the village hurrahing in the wake presented such a scene as that described by ,herrick in his poem of the ,hock ,cart3-- ,come1 sons of summer1 by whose toile ,we are the ,lords of wine and oile2 ,by whose tough labours and rough hands ,we rip up first1 then reap our lands1 ,crown'd with the ears of corne1 now come1 ,and1 to the pipe1 sing harvest home4 ,come forth1 my ,lord1 and see the cart1 ,drest up with all the country art4 #bee ,see here a maukin1 there a sheet ,as spotless pure as it is sweet2 ,the horses1 mares1 and frisking fillies1 ,clad all in linen white as lillies1 ,the harvest swaines and wenches bound ,for joy to see the hock-cart crown'd4 ,about the cart heare how the rout ,of rural younglings raise the shout1 ,pressing before1 some coming after1 ,those with a shout and these with laughter4 ,some blesse the cart2 some kisse the sheaves ,some prank them up with oaken leaves2 ,some cross the fill-horse2 some with great ,devotion stroak the home-borne wheat2 ,while other rusticks1 lesse attent ,to prayers than to merryment1 ,run after with their breeches rent4 ,a verse was sung to start the hock-cart on its way2 generally some thing of this kind3-- ,harvest home1 harvest home1 ,we have ploughed1 we have sowed2 ,we have reaped1 we have mowed1 ,we have brought home every load1 ,hip1 hip1 hip1 harvest home6 ,in ,hampshire it was years ago the custom at the end of harvest to send to the harvest-field a large bottle containing seven or eight gallons of strong beer2 and the head carter1 while the beer was being discussed1 said or sang the lines3-- ,well ploughed--well sowed1 ,well reaped--well mowed1 ,well carried1 and ,never a load overthro'd4 ,he then raised his hand1 and all cheered4 ,this was called the custom of the ,hollowing ,bottle4 #bef ,for a description of the harvest-home supper we may again turn to ,herrick3-- ,well1 on1 brave boyes1 to your ,lord's hearth ,glittering with fire1 where1 for your mirth1 ,you shall see first the large and cheefe ,foundation of your feast1 fat beefe2 ,with upper stories1 mutton1 veale1 ,and bacon1 which makes full the meale2 ,with severall dishes standing by1 ,as here a custard1 there a pie1 ,and here all-tempting frumentie4 ,and for to make the merry cheer1 ,if smirking wine be wanting here1 ,there's that which drowns all care1 stout beer1 ,which freely drink to your lord's health1 ,then to the plough1 the commonwealth1 ,next to your flails1 your fans1 your vats2 ,then to the maids with wheaten hats2 ,to the rough sickle and the crooked scythe1 ,drink1 frolic1 boys1 till all be blithe4 ,robert ,bloomfield alludes to the horkey-beer as to a brew specially prepared for the occasion3-- ,and ,farmer ,cheerum went1 good man1 ,and broach'd the horkey-beer1 ,and sich a mort of folks began ,to eat up our good cheer4 ,when supper was finished the horkey-beer was freely sent about the board1 with the effect noticed by old ,lydgate in his ,story of ,thebes3--8,they were in silence for a tyme tyl good ale gan arise40--,slow tongues are loosened1 and the time is passed in songs and mirth4 ,the following extracts are taken from old ,suffolk songs which have descended from father to son for generations4 ,they are typical of many more that might be given3-- ,here's a health to our master1 ,the founder of the feast6 ,god bless his endeavours ,and send him increase4 #beg ,now our harvest is ended ,and supper is past1 ,here's our mistress' good health ,in a full flowing glass6 ,she is a good woman1-- ,she prepared us good cheer2 ,come all my brave boys1 ,and drink off your beer4 ,drink1 my boys1 drink until you come unto me1 ,the longer we sit1 my boys1 the merrier shall we be6 ,in yon green wood there lies an old fox1 ,close by his den you may catch him1 or no2 ,ten thousand to one you catch him1 or no4 ,his beard and his brush are all of one colour1-- 7,takes the glass and empties it off47 ,i am sorry1 kind sir1 that your glass is no fuller4 ',tis down the red lane6 'tis down the red lane6 ,so merrily hunt the fox down the red lane60 ,there is another version of these concluding lines3-- ,down the red lane there lives an old fox1 ,there does he sit a-mumping his chops3 ,catch him1 boys1 catch him1 catch if you can2 ',tis twenty to one if you catch him or ,nan4 ,the red lane is the throat1 and the fox is the tongue4 ,a favourite old ,norfolk harvest-home song was 8,the ,pye upon the ,pear ,tree ,top10 the following version of which is taken from ,mr4 ,rye's admirable ,history of ,norfolk3-- ,the pye upon the pear-tree top1 7,the singer holds up a glass of beer7 ,the pear-tree top--the pear-tree top1 ,i hold you a crown she is coming down4 7,brings down the glass slowly7 ,she is coming down1 she is coming down1 ,i hold you a crown she is come down4 7,offers the glass to his right-hand neighbour47 #beh ,she is come down1 she is come down1 ,so lift up your elbow1 and hold up your chin1 ,and let your neighbour joggle it in4 ,the drinker then tries to drink1 and his neighbour tries to prevent him4 ,during the evening one of the reapers1 who had been chosen as 8lord10 would retire from the table1 and1 putting on a kind of mummer's garb1 return1 calling 8,lar-gess40 ,he then carried a hat or plate round and collected money to prolong the jollification at the village alehouse4 ,a laughable custom prevalent at ,sussex harvest-homes1 was the following3 ,each person at the table--perhaps twenty or thirty men--had to drink1 without spilling1 a glass of ale placed on the top of a tall hat2 when he had finished1 he must toss the glass up in the air and catch it in the hat as it fell4 ,sometimes a man would fail four or five times1 and at length get too drunk even to try4 ,meantime the company kept up the refrain3-- ,i've been to ,london1 ,i've been to ,dover1 ,i've been a rambling1 boys1 all the world over1 ,over1 over1 over and over1 ,drink up the liquor and turn the bowl over4 ,these lines were sung over and over again1 getting louder at the critical moments4 ,if the drinker's effort was crowned with success the fourth line was changed to-- ,the liquor's drinked up1 and the bowl is turned over1 while ill success was greeted by-- ,the liquor's drinked up1 and the bowl ain't turned over4 ,another ,sussex custom practised not many years ago1 and perhaps still1 at harvest-home suppers consisted in a harvester sticking a lighted candle in a glass of beer and drinking the beer while he held the candle in position with his nose4 ,the company meantime sing a song1 of which the chorus runs-- ,your nose's alight1 your nose's alight1 ,your hair's alight1 your hair's alight1 ,your hair's alight1 afire4 #bei ,frequently the greasy candle would slip from between the nose and the rim of the glass1 really bringing about a conflagration of hair or eyebrows4 ,in ,scotland a dish always to be met with at harvest home1 or ,kirn-suppers1 as they are called1 is composed of porridge1 strong ale and whisky4 ,had such dish as this been found at ,sabine harvest-homes1 well might ,horace have exclaimed1 8,o dura messorum ilia60 ,much the same course of feasting1 strong-ale drinking1 and singing is observed as at the ,english festival-- --the frothing bickers1#eh soon as filled1 ,are drained1 and to the gauntrees#ei oft return4 #eh ,the beakers4 #ei ,the frame supporting the barrel4 ,such were some of the principal ceremonies connected with the harvest-home4 ,it is to be regretted that such observances are now comparatively rare4 ,the kindly association of master and man at these and such-like gatherings1 did much to keep alive a mutual spirit of good will1 and to grease the wheels of toil1 and it is to be feared that such feelings when once lost cannot easily be recalled4 ,bloomfield well describes this peculiarity of former times1 which to that extent1 at any rate1 may be called the 8good old days03-- ,here1 once a year1 distinction lowers its crest1 ,the master1 servant1 and the merry guest1 ,are equal all2 and round the happy ring1 ,the reaper's eyes exulting glances fling2 ,and1 warmed with gratitude1 he quits his place1 ,with sun-burnt hands1 and ale-enlivened face1 ,refills the jug his honored host to tend1 ,to serve at once the master and the friend2 ,proud thus to meet his smiles1 to share his tale1 ,his nuts1 his conversation1 and his ,ale4 ,last of all the great festivals of the year comes ,christmas1 celebrated from early ages with feasting and hearty boisterous merriment4 ,in olden times the closing days of the old year1 and the opening days of the new1 were devoted to holiday-making4 ,from ,christmas ,day to ,twelfth ,night was one long ,saturnalia of feasting1 dancing1 and #bfj wassailing4 ,one of the chief ceremonies of the time was the bringing in of the ,yule ,log on ,christmas ,eve4 ,escorted by troops of shouting men and boys1 and greeted with strains of village minstrelsy1 the yule log was drawn from its resting place1 lighted in the great hall fireplace with some of the charred fragments of the last ,christmas log1 and consumed as a token of hospitality and good cheer4 ,herrick thus describes the ceremony3-- ,come1 bring with a noise1 my merry1 merry boys1 ,the ,christmas log to the firing1 ,while my good ,dame she--bids ye all be free1 ,and drink to your heart's desiring4 ,with the last year's brand--light the new block1 and ,for good success in his spending1 ,on your psaltries play--that sweet luck may ,come while the log is teending4#fj ,drink now the strong beare1 cut the white loafe here1 ,the while the meat is a-shredding1 ,for the rare mince-pie1 and the plums stand by1 ,to fill the paste that's a-kneeding4 #fj ,blazing4 ,as an accompaniment to the yule log1 an immense candle1 called the ,yule ,candle1 shed its light upon the scene of merriment1 and neighbours all began ,to quaff brown ,ale foam'd high from tall stone jugs ,and pledge deep healths in oft-replenished mugs4 ,the custom of wassailing the fruit trees has been already mentioned4 ,in some counties the practice extends to the field and pastures1 and a song is still sung on ,christmas ,eve in ,hampshire1 of which the chorus is3-- ,apples and pears with right good corn1 ,come in plenty to every one1 ,eat and drink good cake and hot ale1 ,give ,earth to drink and she'll not fail4 #bfa ,the time-honoured amusement appropriate to ,christmas ,eve was provided by the ,mummers and the ,lord of ,misrule4 ,the ,mummers 7or ,maskers1 as the name imports7 were to be found in every village4 ,they dressed themselves to represent various characters1 and the chief pageant exhibited by them was a version of the national legend of ,st4 ,george and the ,dragon4 ,the principal characters of course were the gallant ,knight1 and as close a copy of the ,dragon as the wit and ingenuity of the village could contrive2 then there was ,old ,father ,christmas1 the ,turk1 the ,maiden1 and a ,doctor with a huge box of pills ready to execute any repairs rendered necessary by the internecine fury of the ,knight1 the ,turk1 and the ,dragon4 ,the performance varied a good deal according to the fancy of the performers1 but in all places there seems to have been a set form of recitation in verse describing the various antics of the players4 ,the ,lord of ,misrule1 or ,master of ,merry ,disports1 was elected as ,master of the ,ceremonies1 and his term of office extended from ,all-hallow ,eve to ,candlemas ,day4 ,he directed the revels1 exercised full power and authority over high and low in the ordering of the festivities1 and played the wit and fool with what skill nature had endowed him4 ,and so in mirth and jollity the evening rolls away1 and ,christmas ,day appears4 ,sir ,roger de ,coverley says1 or at any rate the ,spectator reports that he said3 8,i have often thought it happens very well that ,christmas should fall out in the middle of winter4 ,it is the most dead1 uncomfortable time of the year1 when the poor people would suffer very much from their poverty and cold1 if they had not good cheer1 warm fires1 and ,christmas gambols to support them4 ,i love to rejoice their poor hearts at this season1 and to see the whole village merry in my great hall4 ,i allow a double quantity of malt to my small beer1 and set it a-running for twelve days for everyone that calls for it40 ,from ,round about our ,coal ,fire it may be gathered that 8an ,english ,gentleman at the opening of the great day 7i4e41 on ,christmas day in the morning7 had all his tenants and neighbours enter his hall by daybreak4 ,the strong beer was broached1 and the black jack went merrily about with toast1 nutmeg1 and good ,cheshire ,cheese40 ,it may not be generally known that the ,old ,english ,gentleman is but a version of a very similar song published in #afjj1 in a book entitled ,le ,prince d',amour4 ,the earlier song contains the following verse relating to our subject3-- #bfb ,with an old fashion when ,christmas was come ,to call in all his neighbours with a bagpipe or drum4 ,and good cheer enough to furnish out every old rome1 ,and beer and ale would make a cat speak and a wise man dumb ,like an old ,courtier of ,queens1 ,and the ,queen's old ,courtier4 ,on ,christmas ,day1 and indeed during all the ,christmas holidays1 the tables were spread from morn till eve2 sirloins of beef1 mince pies and foaming ale formed the chief ingredients of the feast4 ,in many places1 in the houses of the great1 the ceremonious custom was observed of bringing in the boar's head on a dish of costly plate1 the whole company following in procession1 chanting the well-known lines beginning3-- ,caput apri defero1 ,reddens laudes ,domino4 ,the custom still observed at ,queen's ,college1 ,oxford1 of bringing in the boar's head at ,christmas is said to have arisen from the adventure of a student of that house in far-off legendary days1 who1 according to the wont of students in those distant times1 was walking abroad studying his ,aristotle1 when a wild boar1 who happened to be in the neighbourhood1 whether annoyed at having his lair disturbed1 or out of mere malice1 charged down upon him with open mouth4 ,however1 the student's presence of mind did not desert him2 with a loud cry of 8,grcum est0 he thrust the volume down the throat of the monster1 who1 choked by the tough morsel1 then and there expired4 ,turning from the tables of the great to the cottage of the humble1 we find a description of the effect of ,old ,father ,christmas's approach upon the labourer's home in ,bampfylde's ,sonnet on ,christmas3-- ,with footstep slow1 in furry pall yclad1 ,his brows enreathed with holly never sere1 ,old ,christmas comes1 to close the waned year1 ,and aye the shepherd's heart to make right glad1 ,who1 when his teeming flocks are homeward had1 ,to blazing hearth repairs1 and nut-brown beer1 ,and views well pleased the ruddy prattlers dear ,hug the grey mongrel2 meanwhile maid and lad ,squabble for roasted crabs--,thee1 ,sire1 we hail1 #bfc ,whether thine aged limbs thou dost enshroud1 ,in vest of snowy white1 and hoary veil1 ,or wrap'st thy visage in a sable cloud3 ,thee we proclaim with mirth and cheer1 nor fail ,to greet thee well with many a carol loud4 ,it is the practice in many parts of ,cumberland at ,christmas to roast apples before the fire on a string1 and hold under them a bowl of spiced or mulled ale4 ,the apples roast on until they drop into the ale4 ,many an ancient ,christmas carol tells of the joviality which at that time reigned supreme4 ,the following example is taken from a collection of rare old songs and carols3-- ,mye boyes come here ,theres capital cheere ',tis ,christmas tyme1 let myrthe goe rounde ,with a flaggon of ale1 by tyme well brown'd4 ,drink boyes drinke ,and never thinke ,of crustie old tyme1 his scythe and his glasse1 ,he cannot1 nor dare not1 this waye passe4 ,drinke and be wise ,till red ,phbus arise ,and banish colde care from the good waning year3 ,the ,old year he shall dye1 mid plenty of cheere4 ,my boyes1 come passe ,your empty glasse1 ,and fill them with ,ale1 as the world is of strife ,and toaste to the widow1 the maide and the wife4 ,come drink success ,you cannot do less1 ,to the new coming yere1 may it be loaded with funne ,and ne'er bring us worse than the old one has done4 #bfd ,another verse from a good old song specially celebrates our theme-- ,come1 help us to raise ,loud songs to the praise ,of good old ,england pleasures3 ,to the ,christmas cheer1 ,and the foaming ,beer4 ,and the buttery's solid treasures4 ,many pages might be compiled of these old ,english carols1 all in praise of the same theme1 the roast beef and good ale of ,old ,england2 but one more quotation must suffice4 ,it is from ,poor ,robin's ,almanack 7#afie73-- ,now1 thrice welscome1 ,christmas6 ,which brings us good cheer2 ,mince pies and plum-pudding-- ,strong ,ale and strong ,beer2 ,but as for curmudgeons ,who will not be free1 ,i wish they may die ,on a two-legged tree4 ,and so the cycle of the waning year is nearly completed4 ,midst sounds of revelry and mirth the old year is dying1 and dying hard1 and ,new ,year's ,eve comes round again4 ,the principal customs of ,new ,year's ,eve have been already described1 being inextricably blended with those appropriate to ,new ,year's ,day4 ,one scene more2 a custom of very ancient origin and still observed4 ,an ivy-mantled tower1 from which to-night1 at all events1 the moping owl has been driven1 for within are lights and the sounds of busy preparation4 ,those who are about to perform the last offices for the dying year are here assembled1 and a great brown bowl of foaming ale passes from hand to hand4 ,the old church clock1 not bating one jot of his accustomed space from stroke to stroke1 for all the impatience of listeners in many a house and cottage near1 but deliberately1 and with a solemnity befitting the occasion1 tolls out the hour of midnight4 ,a moment's pause2 but ere the last echo of its brazen tongue has died upon the ear1 a merry peal of clashing music bursts from the ancient pile1 carrying over hill and dale1 over flood and field1 on the rapid wings of #bfe sound1 the tidings that the old year is dead and the new year reigns in his place4 ,as we gaze back on these old scenes of fun and frolic1 their rougher outlines perchance softened by distance1 their true-heartiness and geniality shining through the golden mist of time1 which of us will be found to deny that in some respects the old was better8 ,happy the age and harmless were the days1 ,for then true love and amity were found1 ,when every village did a ,may-pole raise1 ,and ,whitsun ales and ,may-games did abound4 ,illustration #bff ,illustration ,,chapter ,x4 8,and then satten some and songe at the ,ale40 ,the ,vision of ,piers ,ploughman4 ,be mine each morn with eager appetite ,and hunger undissembled to repair ,to friendly buttery2 there on smoking crust ,and foaming ,ale to banquet unrestrained2 ,material breakfast6 ,thus in ancient days ,our ancestors robust with liberal cups ,usher'd the morn1 unlike the squeamish sons ,of modern times4 ,panegyric on ,oxford ,ale4 ,,the ,,ales4 -- ,,ale ,,at ,,breakfast4 -- ,,bequests ,,of ,,ale4 -- ,,drinking ,,customs4 -- ,a ,,sermon ,,on ,,malt4 -- ,,excesses ,,of ,,the ,,clergy4 -- ,,anecdotes4 ,so far we have only considered those merry-makings which were peculiar to certain seasons of the year4 ,it need hardly be said that there were also a number of festivals in which ale figured as the chief beverage1 in no way related to any particular day1 and these1 together with a variety of curious customs connected with ale and beer1 will be now treated of4 ,prominent among the many convivial meetings indulged in by our ancestors were the ,ales1 at which1 as their name indicates1 malt liquor was largely consumed4 ,such a feast is referred to in ,chaucer3 8,and make him grete feestes atte nale40 ,and in ,two ,gentlemen of ,verona1 ,launce says to ,speed1 8,thou hast not so much charity in thee as to go to the ,ale with a ,christian40 ,ben ,jonson also mentions ,wakes and ,ales in his ,tale of a ,tub3-- #bfg ,and all the neighbourhood from old records ,of antique proverbs1 drawn from ,whitson-lords1 ,and their authorities at ,wakes and ,ales1 ,with country precedents and old wives' tales1 ,we bring you now to show what different things ,the cotes of clowns are from the courts of kings4 ,of ,ales there were several kinds--,church-,ales1 ,bride-,ales1 ,scot-,ales and many others4 ,the ,church-,ales1 of which the ,easter-,ales and ,whitsun-,ales and ,wakes were varieties1 must be considered the most important of this class of festival4 ,the grotesque carvings on many old churches have been considered by some to represent the humours of these curious gatherings4 ,their origin is no doubt to be traced to the ,agap1 or ,love ,feasts of the early ,christian ,church4 ,stubbe1 in his ,anatomie of ,abuses 7#aehe71 gives the following account of the manner and intent of these ,ales3 8,in certain townes where dronken ,bacchus beares swaie1 against ,christmas and ,easter1 ,whitsondaie1 or some other tyme1 the churchwardens of every ,parishe provide half a score or twentie quarters of mault1 whereof some they buy of the churche-stocke and some is given them of the ,parishioners themselves1 everye one conferring somewhat1 according to his abilitie2 whiche maulte being made into very strong beere or ale1 is sette to sale1 either in the church or some other place assigned to that purpose4 ,then when this is set abroche1 well is he that can gete the soonest to it1 and spend the most at it4 ,in this kinde of practise they continue sixe weekes1 a quarter of a yeare1 yea1 halfe a year together4 ,that money1 they say1 is to repaire their churches and chappels with1 to buye bookes for service1 cuppes for the celebration of the ,sacrament1 surplesses for ,sir ,john1 and other necessaries4 ,and they maintain extraordinarie charges in their ,parish besides40 ,the account contains some obvious exaggerations4 ,stubbe was one of those of whom the ,earl of ,dorset might have said as he said of ,prynne1--8,my ,lords1 when ,god made all ,his works1 ,he looked upon them and saw that they were good2 this gentleman1 the devil having put spectacles on his nose1 says that all is bad40 ,it will not do for ,macaulay's ,new ,zealander in looking through the files of old newspapers1 discovered in the ruins of the ,british ,museum1 to accept every statement of the modern teetotal platform as representing an actual fact4 ,carew gives an account of the matter which probably represents the actual state of the case3--8,touching ,church-,ales3 these be mine #bfh assertions1 if not my proofs3--,of things induced by our forefathers1 some were instituted to a good use1 and perverted to a bad2 again1 some were both naught in the invention and so continued in the practice4 ,now that ,church ,ales ought to be sorted in the better rank of these twaine1 may be gathered from their causes and effects1 which ,i thus raffe up together3--entertaining of ,christian love2 conforming of men's behaviour to a civil conversation2 compounding of controversies2 appeasing of quarrels2 raising a store1 which might be converted partlie to good and goodlie uses1 as relieving all sorts of poor people2 repairing of bridges1 amending of highways1 and partlie for the ,prince's service1 by defraying1 at an instant1 such rates and taxes as the magistrate imposeth for the countrie's defence4 ,briefly1 they do tend to an instructing of the mind by amiable conference1 and an enabling of the bodie by commendable exercise40 ,the curious old ,indenture of pre-,reformation times given below1 is an agreement between the inhabitants of the parishes of ,elvarton1 ,thurlaston1 and ,ambaston of the one part1 and the good folk of ,okebrook of the other part1 by ,john1 ,abbot of the ,dale1 ,ralph ,saucheverell1 ,esqre41 ,john ,bradshaw1 and ,henry ,tithell4 ,it provides that--8the inhabitants1 as well of the said ,parish of ,elvarton1 as of the town of ,okebrook1 shall brew four ,ales1 and every ale of one quarter of malt1 and at their own costs and charges1 betwixt this and the feast of ,st4 ,john ,baptist next coming4 ,and that every inhabitant of the said town of ,okebrook shall be at the several ,ales2 and every husband and his wife shall pay two pence1 every cottager one penny2 and all the inhabitants of ,elvarton1 ,thurlaston and ,ambaston shall have and receive all the profits and advantages coming of the said ,ales to the use and behoof of the said ,church of ,elvarton2 and that the inhabitants of the said towns of ,elvarton1 ,thurlaston1 and ,ambaston1 shall brew eight ,ales betwixt this and the feast of ,st4 ,john the ,baptist2 at the which ,ales1 and every one of them1 the inhabitants of ,okebrook shall come and pay as before rehearsed3 and if he be away at one ,ale1 to pay at t'oder ,ale for both1 or else to send his money4 ,and the inhabitants of ,okebrook shall carry all manner of ,tymber being in the ,dale wood now felled1 that the said ,prestchyrch of the said towns of ,elvarton1 ,thurlaston1 and ,ambaston shall occupye to the use and profit of the said ,church40 ,shakspere mentions these festivals in ,pericles3 ,it hath been sung at festivals1 ,on ember eves and holy ales2 #bfi and an old writer 7#aedd7 speaks of 8keapinge of ,church-,ales1 in the whiche with leapynge1 dansynge and kyssynge they maynteyne the profett of their ,church40 ,the ,church-,ale was usually celebrated in a house known as the ,church ,house1 which was either hired for the festival1 or was a house to which the parishioners had a right to resort upon occasions of this character4 ,by an old lease1 mentioned in ,worsley's ,history of the ,isle of ,wight1 a house1 called the ,church ,house held by the inhabitants of ,whitwell1 parishioners of ,gatcombe1 of the ,lord of the ,manor1 was demised by them to ,john ,brode on condition 8that1 if the ,quarter shall need at any time to make a ,quarter-,ale or ,church-,ale1 for the maintenance of the ,chapel1 it shall be lawful for them to have the use of the sd house1 with all the rooms1 both above and beneath1 during their ,ale40 ,considerable sums were raised by these means4 ,the parish books of ,kingston-upon-,thames show that in the year #aebf the proceeds of the ,church-,ale amounted to #g #aes41 and an ancient church book of ,great ,marlow contains the entry in the year #aeib1 8,received of the torchmen1 for the profytte of the ,whitsun ,ale #e40 ,no doubt some amount of abuse and excess occurred upon these occasions4 ,many writers of the sixteenth century stigmatise the ,church-,ales and ,wakes as the sources of 8gluttonie and drunkenness10 and other evils2 and ,harrison1 writing in #aehg1 states as of a subject for congratulation1 that 8,the superfluous numbers of idle wakes1 church-ales1 helpe-ales1 and soule-ales1 called also dirge ales1 with the heathenish rioting at bride-ales1 are well diminished40 ,some1 however1 were found to uphold them4 ,pierce1 ,bishop of ,bath and ,wells1 writes in answer to an inquiry of ,archbishop ,laud1 that 8,church-,ales were when the people went from afternoon prayers on ,sundays to their lawful sports and pastimes in the churchyard1 or in the neighbourhood1 or in some public-house1 where they drank and made merry4 ,by the benevolence of the people at these pastimes1 many poor parishes have cast their bells and beautified their churches1 and raised stock for the poor40 ,the ,puritan movement was1 of course1 strongly opposed to all these festivals1 and the influence of these 8unco' righteous0 folk in the year #afca1 procured an order from ,judge ,richardson1 putting an end to all such gatherings in the county of ,somerset1 whereupon1 on report being made to the ,king1 an order was made annulling the decree of the ,judge1 and seventy-two of the most orthodox and able of the clergy of the county certified that 8on these days 7which generally fell on a ,sunday7 #bgj the service of ,god was more solemnly performed1 and the services better attended than on other days40 ,a previous attempt by the ,justices of the ,peace to suppress these gatherings seems to have been equally unsuccessful4 ,in #aeif1 ,john and ,alexander ,popham1 ,george ,sydenham1 and seven other ,justices of ,bridgewater1 ordered that no ,church-,ale1 ,clerk's-,ale1 or tippling should be suffered2 but the decree seems to have been disregarded4 ,a custom somewhat similar to the ,church-,ale was that of 8drinking ale at the ,church stile40 ,ale and in some cases food as well1 were consumed on certain occasions on the parish account4 ,pepys1 under date ,april #ad1 #affa1 mentions that 8,after dinner we all went to the ,church stile 7at ,walthamstow7 and there eat and drank20 and a writer in the ,gentleman's ,magazine 7,november1 #aheb7 states that in an old book of parish accounts belonging to ,warrington the entry occurs3 8,nov4 #e1 #afhh4 ,paid for drink at the ,church steele1 #acs40 ,clerk-,ales1 or lesser ,church-,ales1 were held for the maintenance of the parish clerk4 ,bishop ,pierce1 from whom we have before quoted1 says of them that 8in poor country parishes1 where the wages of the clerk were but small1 the people thinking it unfit that the clerk should duly attend at the church1 and not gain by his office1 sent him in provision1 and then came on ,sundays and feasted with him2 by which means he sold more ,ale1 and tasted more of the liberality of the people1 than their quarterly payments would have amounted to in many years2 and since these have been put down1 many ministers have complained to me 7says his ,lordship7 that they were afraid they should have no parish clerks40 ,there is a tradition well known in the ,vale of the ,warwickshire ,avon1 which connects the name of ,shakspere with the ,whitsun-,ale4 ,it is related that the ale of ,bidford was in ,shakspere's day famed for its potency1 and that on the occasion of a ,whitsun-,ale held at that place1 young ,shakspere and some of his friends attended it1 having accepted a challenge of the ,bidford men to try their powers as ale-drinkers4 ,the ,bidfordians proved the better men1 and the others endeavoured to return to ,stratford4 ,they had not gone far1 however1 when1 overcome by the fumes of the ale1 they were forced to rest under a crab-tree about a mile out of ,bidford4 ,here sleep overcame them1 and their nap lasted from ,saturday night till ,monday morning1 when they were aroused by a labourer who was on his way to his work4 ,shakspere's companions urged him to return and renew the contest1 but he refused4 8,i have had enough0 he said2 8,i have drunk with #bga 8,piping ,pebworth1 dancing ,marston1 ,haunted ,hillbro'1 hungry ,grafton1 ,dudging ,exhall1 papist ,wixford1 ,beggarly ,broom1 and drunken ,bidford40 ,these villages are all visible from the spot where the ,bard's long sleep is related to have taken place1 and it is said retained their characteristics until very recently4 ,the ,crab1 long known as 8,shakspere's ,crab10 was cut down some time in the early part of this century by the ,lady of the ,manor1 who is said to have given the somewhat ,irish reason for this act of ,vandalism1 that the tree was gradually being demolished by curiosity hunters4 ,a new crab has recently been planted upon the spot1 and will1 it is to be hoped1 hand down to future generations the memory of the ,poet's youthful escapade4 ,the term ,christian-,ale was in all probability used to denote some kind of ,church or ,whitsun ,ale4 ,the expression is to be found in a curious old pamphlet entitled 8,the ,virgins' ,complaint for the loss of their sweethearts in the present wars 4 4 4 presented to the ,house of ,commons in the names and behalfes of all ,damsels both of ,country and ,city1 ,jan4 #bi1 #afdb1 by sundry ,virgins of the ,city of ,london10 in which occurs this passage3 8,since the departure of the lusty young gentlemen1 and courtiers1 and cavaliers1 and the ablest prentices and handsome journeymen1 with whom we had used to walk to ,islington and ,pimlico to eat ,cakes and drink ,christian-,ale on holy daies40 ,somewhat akin to ,church-,ales were the guild-feasts held by the old fraternities4 ,the records of the ancient guild at ,lynn ,regis1 in ,norfolk 7,rye's ,hist4 of ,norfolk71 show that in the time of ,richard ,,ii4 the annual election of officers of the fraternity was followed by 8a guild-feast10 in which great quantities of ale were consumed4 ,an alderman's allowance of ale1 8while it lasteth10 was two gallons1 a steward had one gallon1 and the dean and clerk a pottle each4 ,the feast was apparently prolonged night after night1 till all the ale brewed for the occasion was expended1 and those brethren who from any urgent cause were absent1 had a gallon of ale reserved for them4 ,before the carouse commenced1 the guild-light was lit1 and the clerk read prayers4 ,anybody who 8jangled0 during prayer-time1 or who fell asleep over his ale afterwards1 was liable to a fine4 ,a curious old custom of a similar nature to the ,whitsun-,ale is recorded in ,curll's ,miscellanies4 ,it was observed at ,newnton1 in ,wiltshire1 and was intended to preserve the memory of a donation from #bgb ,king ,athelstan of a common1 and a house for the hayward 7the hay keeper74 8,upon every ,trinity ,sunday1 the parishioners being come to the door of the hayward's house1 the door was struck thrice1 in honour of the ,holy ,trinity2 they then entered4 ,the bell was rung2 after which1 silence being ordered1 they read their prayers aforesaid4 ,then was a ghirland of flowers made upon a hoop1 brought forth by a maid of the town upon her neck2 and a young man 7a bachelor7 of another parish1 first saluted her three times in honour of the ,trinity1 in respect of ,god the ,father4 ,then she put the ghirland upon his neck and kissed him three times in honour of the ,trinity1 particularly ,god the ,son4 ,then he put the ghirland on her neck again1 and kissed her three times1 in respect of the ,holy ,trinity1 particularly the ,holy ,ghost4 ,then he took the ghirland from her neck1 and1 by the custom1 gave her a penny at least4 ,the method of giving this ghirland was from house to house annually1 till it came round4 ,in the evening every commoner sent his supper up to this house1 which was called the ,eale-house2 and having before laid in there equally a stock of malt which was brewed in the house1 they supped together2 and what was left was given to the poor40 ,thoroton1 in his ,nottinghamshire1 gives an account of a shepherd who kept ale to sell in the ,church of ,thorpe4 ,he was the sole inhabitant of a village depopulated by inclosure4 ,besides the ,ales already mentioned1 there were ,bid-,ales1 ,bride-,ales1 ,give-,ales1 ,cuckoo-,ales1 ,help-,ales1 ,tithe-,ales1 ,leet-,ales1 ,lamb-,ales1 ,midsummer-,ales1 ,scot-,ales1 and ,weddyn-,ales4 ,some of these are sufficiently explained by their names4 ,bid-,ales1 or ,bede-,ales1 and ,scot-,ales have been mentioned in ,chapter ,v4 ,bride-,ale1 also called ,bride-bush1 ,bride-wain and ,bride-stake1 was the custom of the bride selling ale on the wedding-day1 for which she received by way of contribution any sum or present which her friends chose to give her4 ,in the ,christen ,state of ,matrimony 7#aede7 we read3 8,when they come home from the church1 then beginneth excesse of eatyng and drynking1 and as much is waisted in one daye as were sufficient for the two newe-married folkes halfe a yeare to lyve upon40 ,modern wedding breakfasts and the presents given to the happy pair are1 doubtless1 descendants of this old custom4 ,in ,norway at the present day1 a peasant's wedding is celebrated with much the same ceremony as the old ,english ,bride-,ale4 ,ale is handed round to the guests1 and they are each expected to contribute1 according to their ability1 to form a purse to assist the bride in commencing housekeeping4 ,regulations were made in some places to restrain the excesses #bgc attending on the keeping of ,bride-,ales4 ,in the ,court ,rolls of ,hales ,owen is an entry3--8,a payne ye made that no person or persons that shall brewe any weddyn ale to sell1 shall not brewe aboue twelve stryke of mault at the most1 and that the said persons so marryed shall not keep nor have above eyght messe of persons at hys dinner within the burrowe1 and before hys brydall daye he shall keep no unlawful games in hys house1 nor out of hys house on payne of #bjs40 ,the old custom of ,cuckoo-,ale appears to have been only of local observance4 ,in ,shropshire the advent of the first cuckoo was celebrated by general feasting amongst the working classes2 as soon as his first note was heard1 even if early in the day1 the men would leave their work and spend the rest of the day in mirth and jollity4 ,the ,tithe-,ale was a repast of bread1 cheese and ale1 provided by the recipient of the tithe and enjoyed by the tithe-payers4 ,at ,cumnor1 in ,berkshire1 a curious custom of this kind still obtains4 ,on ,christmas ,day1 after evening service1 the parishioners who are liable to pay tithe1 repair in a body to the vicarage and are there entertained on bread and cheese and ale4 ,this is not by any means considered in the light of a benefaction on the part of the vicar1 but is demanded as a right by the tithe-payers1 and even the quantity of the good things which the vicar is to give is strictly specified4 ,he must brew four bushels of malt in ale and small beer1 he must provide two bushels of wheat for bread making1 and half a hundred-weight of cheese2 and whatever remains unconsumed is given to the poor4 ,leet-,ales1 in some parts of ,england1 denoted the dinner given at the ,court ,leet of a ,manor to the jury and customary tenants4 ,another somewhat similar custom was known by the name of ,drink-lean1 and was a festive day kept by the tenants and vassals of the ,lord of the ,manor1 or1 as some say1 a potation of ale provided by the tenants for the entertainment of the ,lord or his steward4 ,the origin of the term is not known2 it probably has no connection with the effect which a lover of old ale said that beverage had upon him4 8,i always find it makes me lean10 said he4 8,lean60 cries his friend1 in amazement2 8why1 ,i always thought ale made folks fat40 8,that may be10 was the reply1 8but it makes me lean1 for all that--against a lamp-post40 ,another variety of the ,ale was called ,mary-,ale1 and was a feast held in honour of the ,virgin ,mary4 ,foot-,ales seem to have meant not so much feasts as sums of money paid to purchase ale on a man's entering a new situation4 ,we still talk of a man 8paying his footing40 ,a short consideration may now be devoted to the use of ale in former #bgd times in the household4 ,it is easy to picture to oneself the ,english squire or yeoman of old times1 an article of whose creed it was that 8,old ,england's cheer is beef and beer1 ,soup-meagre is ,gallia's boast10 as he sat in his hard1 uncompromising chair before the fire on a winter's evening1 with perhaps a few of his cronies gathered round him1 quaffing their bright ,march beer or mellow old ,october as they talked and ruminated in turns on the crops1 the market or the hunt4 ,it is not1 however1 so easy for the degenerate sons of modern days to realise the mighty draughts of ale taken at breakfast1 soon after daylight4 ,yet1 before the introduction of tea and coffee1 ale was the morning drink in the palace of the king as in the cottage of the labourer4 ,in #aeab the breakfast of the ,earl and ,countess of ,northumberland on a fast-day in ,lent was 8a loaf of bread1 two manchetts 7i4e41 rolls of fine wheat71 a quart of beer1 a quart of wine1 two pieces of salt fish1 six bawned herrings1 four white herrings1 or a dish of sprats40 ,on flesh days 8half a chyne of mutton or a chyne of boiled beef0 was substituted for the fish4 ,in the same household1 the boys1 8my lord ,percy and ,mr4 ,thomas ,percy10 were allowed 8half a loaf of household bread1 a manchett1 a pottle 7#b quarts7 of beer and three mutton bones boiled40 8,my lady's gentlewoman0 seems to have been a rather thirsty soul2 she was allowed for breakfast 8a loaf of bread1 a pottle of beer and three mutton bones boiled40 ,even the two children in the nursery were brought up on this diet of beer2 their breakfast consisted of 8a manchett1 a quart of beer1 a dish of butter1 a piece of salt fish and a dish of sprats40 ,the liveries1 or evening meal1 produced even a greater supply of malt liquor4 ,my ,lord and ,lady then had 8two manchetts1 a loaf of bread1 a gallon of beer and a quart of wine40 ,the allowance of food and drink made from the ,court to ,maids of ,honour and other attendants1 was called the bouche of ,court1 a name corrupted into the bouge of ,court1 and 8to have bouge of ,court0 signified to have meat and drink free4 ,in the ,ordinances1 of ,eltham1 #ag ,henry ,,viii41 ,maids of ,honour of the ,queen are each allowed for breakfast 8one chet lofe1 one manchet1 two gallons of ale1 dim' pitcher of wine40 ,lady ,lucy1 one of the ,maids of ,honour in the same reign1 was allowed for breakfast--a chine of beef1 a loaf1 and a gallon of ale2 for dinner--a piece of boiled beef1 a slice of roast meat and a gallon of ale2 and for supper--porridge1 mutton1 a loaf and a gallon of ale4 #bge ,queen ,elizabeth's breakfast seems frequently to have consisted of little else but ale and bread4 ,in the household accounts for the year #aegf1 are to be found certain items of her diet4 ,one morning it is 8,cheate and mancheate #f;d41 ale and beare #c;d41 wine #a pint4 #g;d30 another day it is bread as before1 8ale and beare #aj;d41 wine1 #g;d20 and considering the prices of the times1 the amount of ale represented by these figures must have been very considerable4 ,even well into last century ale was a common drink for breakfast among those who affected the manners of the old school4 ,applebie's ,journal1 under date ,september #aath1 #agca1 makes mention of 8an old gentleman near ninety1 who has a florid and vigorous constitution1 and tells us the difference between the manners of the present age1 and that in which he spent his youth4 ,with regard to eating in his time1 ,breakfast consisted of good hams1 cold sirloin1 and good beer1 succeeded with wholesome exercise1 which sent them home hungry and ready for dinner40 ,in an old song1 ,advice to ,bachelors2 or1 the ,married ,man's ,lamentations1 occurs this verse3-- ,if ,i but for my breakfast ask then doth she laugh and jeer2 ,perhaps give me a hard dry crust and strong four shilling beer2 ,she tells me that is good enough for such a rogue as me2 ,and if ,i do but seem to pout then hey1 boys1 flap goes she4 ,between breakfast and dinner there was generally a 8nunchion0#fa 7noon draught71 a word curious from its having been confounded with lunch1 which signifies a large piece or hunch of bread4 ,when uneducated people speak of their 8nunchions10 they are unconsciously using a more correct form of word than more refined persons when they speak of 8luncheon40 ,on any occasion when a drink between meals was needed1 it was called a 8russin10 as in the lines of the old poem1 ,the ,land of ,cockaigne 7thirteenth century73-- ,in ,cockaigne is met and drink1 ,without care1 how1 or swink1 ,the met is trie 7choice71 the drink is clere1 ,to none1 russin and sopper4 #bgf ,an evening draught in the religious houses was called a 8potatio40 ,when the afternoon reading was finished1 the monks proceeded 8ad potationem0 7i4e41 to take their evening draught of ale74 #fa ,from noon1 and schenchen1 to pour out4 ,ale1 generous ale1 was the beverage with which all meals alike were washed down2 and ale and beer were in old times considered as having a peculiar suitability to the stomach of an ,englishman4 ,a letter from ,john ,stile to ,henry ,,viii4 7#aeab7 on the condition of the army in ,france bears witness to this common notion4 8,and hyt plese your grace10 he writes1 8the greteyst lacke of vytuals1 that ys here ys of bere1 for your subjectys had lyver for to drynk bere than wyne or sydere1 for the hote wynys dothe burne theym1 and the syder dothe caste theym yn dysese and sekenysys40 ,the custom of women resorting to ale-houses and taking provisions with them wherewith to make a common feast1 seems to have been an early form of the modern picnic4 ,in one of the ,chester ,miracle ,plays ,noah is represented as being greatly annoyed at finding his wife eating and drinking with her gossips in an ale-house when it is time to be getting into the ,ark4 ,several women meet together1 and one of them proposes to the others an al fresco entertainment of this character4 ,the ale is recommended in these lines3-- ,i know a draught of merry-go-downe1 ,the best it is in all thys towne1 ,but yet wold ,i not for my gowne1 ,my husband it wyst1 ye may me trust4 ,one of the women says1 8,god might send me a strype or two1 if my husband should see me here40 8,nay10 said ,alice1 8she that is afraid had better go home2 ,i fear no man40 ,and ich off them will sumwhat bryng1 ,gosse1 pygge1 or capon's wing1 ,pastes off pigeons1 or sum other thyng4 ,ech of them brought forth their dysch1 ,sum brought flesh and sum fysh4 ,nor was the 8mery-go-downe0 forgotten4 ,on going home these revellers represent to their husbands that they have been to church4 ,it may be gathered from ,dean ,swift's satirical advice to servants that ale and beer in his day formed the principal dinner beverages in polite society4 ,in his directions to the butler1 he tells him1 8,if any one #bgg desires a glass of bottled ale1 first shake the bottle1 to see if anything be in it2 then taste it1 to see what liquor it is1 that you may not be mistaken2 and1 lastly1 wipe the mouth of the bottle with the palm of your hand1 to show your cleanliness4 8,if any one calls for small beer towards the end of the dinner1 do not give yourself the trouble of going down to the cellar1 but gather the droppings and leavings out of the several cups and glasses and salvers into one2 but turn your back to the company1 for fear of being observed4 ,on the contrary1 when any one calls for ale towards the end of dinner1 fill the largest tankard cup topful1 by which you will have the greatest part left to oblige your fellow-servants without the sin of stealing from your master40 ,in the seventeenth century there lived an interesting person named ,john ,bigg1 better known as the ,dinton ,hermit1 who subsisted chiefly on bread and ale supplied him by his friends4 ,he only begged one thing--leather--with which he patched his shoes in innumerable places4 ,a portrait of him is to be seen in ,lipscombe's ,history of ,buckinghamshire4 ,two leather bottles hang at his girdle1 the one for ale1 the other for small beer4 ,many records are in existence illustrative of the custom of distributing ale for charitable purposes4 ,the following instances are selected from a collection of ,old ,english ,customs and various ,bequests and ,charities4 8,at ,piddle ,hinton1 ,dorsetshire4 ,an ancient custom is for the ,rector to give away1 on ,old ,christmas ,day1 annually1 a pound of bread1 a pint of ale1 and a mince pie to every poor person in the parish4 ,this distribution is regularly made by the ,rector to upwards of #cjj persons40 8,at ,swaffham ,bulbeck1 ,cambridgeshire4 ,before the enclosure1 the tenant of the ,abbey ,farm in this parish1 during those years in which the open field land was under tillage1 used to give a slice of cake and a glass of ale to all parishioners who applied for it40 8,at ,giggleswick1 ,yorkshire4 ,by the will of ,william ,clapham 7#afjc7 #ds4 #d;d4 was left towards a potation for the poor scholars of the ,freeschool there on ,st4 ,george's ,day2 and the custom was formerly to give figs1 bread1 and ale40 8,at ,edgcott1 ,buckinghamshire4 ,robert ,marcham1 ,esq41 pays the overseers #c a year1 a rent charge upon an acre of land40 ,this was formerly distributed to the tenants in the shape of two cakes each1 and as much beer as they could drink at the time4 8,at ,st4 ,giles'1 ,norwich4 ,by the will of ,john ,ballestin1 #aehd1 the #bgh rent from three tenements was to be distributed to the poor in the following manner3 viz41 that in the week before ,christmas1 the week before ,michaelmas1 and the week after ,easter1 in the ,church of ,st4 ,giles1 the ,minister should request the poor people1 all that should receive or have need of alms1 to come to ,church1 and pray for the preservation of the ,prince1 c42 that the poor should place themselves four and four together1 all that should be above the age of eleven years1 and that every four of them should have set before them a twopenny wheat loaf1 a gallon of best beer1 and four pounds of beef and broth40 8,at ,prince's ,risborough1 ,buckinghamshire4 ,up to #ahac1 a ,bull and a boar1 a sack of ,wheat1 and a sack of ,malt were given away to the poor by the ,lord of the ,manor1 every ,christmas morning about six o'clock40 ,in many houses small beer was always kept to dispense in charity1 ,ben ,jonson1 in ,the ,alchemist1 describes a mean1 stingy person as-- 4 4 one who could keep ,the buttery-hatch still locked1 and save the chippings1 ,sell the dole beer to aqua vit men4 ,visitors at ,leicester's ,hospital1 ,warwick1 may have noticed a huge copper beer-tankard reposing on a shelf4 ,this great cup holds six quarts1 and is filled with strong ale thrice a year on gaudy days1 and passed round among the old brethren1 pensioners of the house4 ,in the fourteenth century there was a custom for one of the fishermen engaged upon the river ,thames to present a salmon to the ,abbot of ,westminster once a year4 ,the fisherman who bore the tribute had that day a right to sit at the prior's table1 and might demand bread and ale of the cellarer2 the cellarer on his part might take from the fish's tail as much as he could with 8four fingers and his thumb erect40 ,superstitious observances were rife in former times4 ,the ,roman augurs observed the flight of birds1 and scrutinised the palpitating vitals of fresh slain victims1 thinking thereby to steal a march upon the future4 ,our ancestors would draw omens from the barking of dogs1 the cries of wild fowl1 or from the manner in which beer1 accidentally spilt from the cup1 distributed itself upon the floor4 ,melton1 in his ,astrolagaster1 observes that 8if the beere fall next a man it is a signe of good luck40 ,the customs and ceremonies attending the actual consumption of ale and other liquors now require some few words4 ,first in order stands the old custom of pledging1 which was in origin distinct from #bgi toasting or health-drinking4 ,william of ,malmesbury says that the treacherous murder of ,king ,edward while drinking a horn of wine presented to him by his stepmother ,elfrida1 gave rise to the old custom of pledging4 ,a person before drinking would ask one who sat next to him whether he would pledge him4 ,the other thereupon drew his sword and held it over the drinker as a pledge to him that no secret foe should strike him in an unguarded moment while he drained the bowl4 ,others have referred the origin of the custom to the treachery of the ,danes1 who would take advantage of the attitude of a man when drinking a horn of ale or mead1 to stab him unawares4 ,be the origin what it may1 the custom prevailed for many centuries1 and was one of the things noted by that lively and inquisitive ,french physician1 ,stephen ,perlin1 who visited ,england about the middle of the sixteenth century4 ,amongst many other entertaining observations made by him is the following3--8,the ,english1 one with the other1 are joyous1 and are very fond of music2 they are also great drinkers1 4 4 4 and they will say to you usually at table1 #8,goude chere1' and they will also say to you more than one hundred times1 #8,drind oui1' and you will reply to them in their language1 8,i plaigui' 7#8,i pledge you'740 ,illustration3 ,health-,drinking4 ,the custom of health-drinking seems to have been at one time or another common to all ,european nations4 ,the ,romans had their commissationes1 or drinking bouts1 and their 8bene te1 bene tibi40 ,our own immediate ancestors the ,saxons1 as we have already seen1 observed the custom of health-drinking with their 8,wacht heil0 and 8,drinc heil40 #bhj ,the picture of an ,anglo-,saxon dinner-party is taken from a ,,ms41 supposed to be of the tenth century 7,tiberius1 c4 vi41 fol4 #e1 v474 ,the peculiar weapons borne by the attendants are1 no doubt1 spits from which the guests are carving meat4 ,the preceding illustration occurs in ,alfric's version of ,genesis 7,,ms4 ,cotton4 ,claudius1 ,b4 ,,iv41 fol4 #cf1 v47 and represents ,abraham's feast at the birth of his child4 ,illustration3 ,anglo-,saxons ,feasting and ,health-,drinking4 ,the ,danes1 also1 were great health-drinkers4 ,it is recorded that previous to the invasion of ,england by these ravaging pirates of the ,north1 in the reign of ,sweyne1 that monarch gave a great banquet on his accession to the throne4 ,first1 the ale-horns were filled and emptied in memory of the dead ,king ,harold2 the next draught was in honour of ,christ1 and the third of ,st4 ,michael the ,archangel4 ,a writer of the year #afbc thus describes the ceremonies of health-drinking as practised at that time3--8,he that begins the health first uncovering his head1 he takes a full cup in his hand1 and setting his countenance with a grave aspect1 he craves for audience2 silence being once obtained1 he begins to breathe out the name1 peradventure1 of some honourable personage1 whose health1 is drunk to1 and he that pledges must likewise off with his cap1 kiss his fingers1 and bow himself in sign of a reverent acceptance4 ,when the leader sees his follower thus prepared1 he sups up his broth1 turns the bottom of the cup upward1 and1 in ostentation of his dexterity1 gives the cup a fillip to make it cry twango4 ,and thus the first scene is acted4 ,the cup being newly replenished to the breadth of a hair1 he that is the pledger must now begin his part2 and #bha thus it goes round throughout the whole company40 ,to prove that each person had drunk off his measure1 he had to turn the glass over his thumb1 and if so much liquor remained as to make more than a drop which would stand on the nail of his thumb without running off1 he had to drink off another bumper4 ,this latter practice went by the name of supernaculm1 and is mentioned in an old ballad1 ,the ,winchester ,wedding3-- ,then ,phillip began her health1 ,and turn'd a beer-glass o'er his thumb1 ,but ,jenkin was reckoned for drinking1 ,the best in ,christendom4 ,the author of ,memoires d',angleterre 7#afih7 mentions the absolute universality of this practice of health-drinking amongst the ,english4 8,to drink at table10 he writes1 8without drinking to the health of some one in especial1 would be considered drinking on the sly1 and as an act of incivility4 ,there are in this proceeding two principal and singular grimaces1 which are universally observed4 4 4 40 ,the person whose health is drunk must remain as inactive as a statue while the drinker drinks1 after which the second grimace is 8to make him an inclinabo1 at the risk of dipping his periwig in the gravy4 4 4 4 ,i confess that when a foreigner first sees these manners he thinks them laughable40 ,and yet one would have thought that a ,frenchman's familiarity with toasting would have rendered the proceeding not so singular an one after all1 for that custom was carried to an extreme in his own nation1 among the choice spirits of which it was not unusual to give a toast which necessitated the drinking of a glass to each letter of a mistress's name1 as illustrated in the lines3-- ,six fois je m'en vas boire au beau nom de ,cloris1 ,cloris1 le seul desire de ma chaste pense4 ,space forbids that we should go very fully into all these old drinking customs1 though some of them are fantastic and curious enough4 ,one or two more1 however1 may be mentioned4 ,in ,elizabethan times it was customary for hard drinkers to put some inflammable substance on the surface of their liquor1 and so to swallow the draught and the blazing fragment at a gulp4 ,this was called flap-dragoning1 and the fiery morsel was known as a flap-dragon4 ,shakspere has many allusions to this practice4 ,falstaff says of ,prince ,hal1 that he 8drinks off #bhb candle-ends for flap-dragons40 ,and in ,winter's ,tale an instance of the verb occurs in the passage1 8,but to make an end of the ship2 to see how the sea flap-dragoned it40 ,the captain in ,rowley's ,match at ,midnight asserts that his corporal 8was lately choked at ,delf by swallowing a flap-dragon40 ,the term hob-nob as denoting pot-companionship1 has been said by some to be a corruption of 8,habbe or nabbe80 i4e41 ,will you have or not have 7a drink78 ,others suggest a more whimsical derivation4 ,it is said that the ,maids of ,honour of the ,tudor ,court1 who we have seen were ale-ladies1 if they cannot be called ale-knights1 frequently liked their beer warm1 and had it placed upon the hob of the grate 8to take the chill off40 ,it was therefore natural for their attendants to ask the question1 8,from the hob or not from the hob80 which in process of time became 8,hob or nob80 ,the above remarks on drinking customs lead to the consideration of the extravagant drinking and eating of days gone by4 ,our ancestors1 both ,saxon and ,dane1 were tremendous drinkers1 and their sole amusement after the labours of the day seems to have been drinking down mighty draughts of ale and mead1 and getting themselves under the table as quickly as possible4 ,an ancient anecdote is told of a ,saxon bishop1 who invited a ,dane to his house for the purpose of making him drunk4 ,after dinner 8the tables were taken away1 and they passed the rest of the day until evening in drinking40 ,the cupbearer manages matters in such a manner that the ,dane's turn comes round much oftener than that of the others1 as1 indeed1 8the bishop had directed him10 and the desired end is at last attained4 ,whether ,iago was right when he gave to the ,english the palm in drinking over 8your ,dane1 your ,german1 and your swag-bellied ,hollander10 and whether one taught the other his own particular drinking vices1 we cannot stop now to inquire4 ,the ,english were always famed for their love of strong ale1 and passing over the intervening centuries and coming down to the ,tudor period1 many instances could be quoted from contemporary writers showing the proneness of our ancestors to drench deep thought in tankards of the nappy nut-brown ale4 ,stubbe1 in his ,anatomie of ,abuses 7#aehe71 says that the ale-houses in ,london were crowded from morning to night with inveterate drunkards1 whose only care was how to get as much heady ale into their carcases as possible4 ,ale1 strong ale1 was all the cry2 one who could not or would not quaff of the strongest was counted a milksop1 #bhd while he who could drink longest of it without 7or rather before71 getting tipsy1 was the king of the company4 ,it must have been of such an one that ,herrick wrote-- ,tap1 better known than trusted1 as we hear1 ,sold his old mother's spectacles for beer1 ,and not unlikely1 rather too than fail1 ,he'll sell her eyes and nose for beer and ale4 ,the love for the strong and the contempt for the small is illustrated in the well-known lines of the old song3-- ,he who drinks small beer1 goes to bed sober1 ,falls as the leaves do fall1 that fall in ,october2 ,he who drinks strong ale1 goes to bed mellow1 ,lives as he ought to live1 and dies a jolly fellow4 ,such was the love of strong ale in the sixteenth century that a term was actually invented to describe madness produced by excessive ale-drinking4 ,a writer in the year #aeih affords us an instance of the word in question1 when he says that 8to arrest a man that hath no likeness to a horse is flat lunasie or alecie40 ,harrison1 whom we have frequently had occasion to quote1 in speaking of the heavy ale-drinking of his days1 though the ale was then 8more thick and fulsome0 than the beer1 says1 8,certes ,i know some ale-knights so much addicted thereunto1 that they will not cease from morow until even to visit the same1 clensing house after house1 till they either fall quite under the boord1 or else1 not daring to stirre from their stooles1 sit still pinking with their narrow eies as halfe sleeping1 till the fume of their adversarie be digested that he may go to it afresh40 ,illustration3 ,the ,ale-,wives' ,invitation to ,married ,men and ,bachelors3 ,shewing ,how a good fellow is lighted when he is brought to ,poverty4 ,therefore take my ,counel and ,ale-wives don't trut4 ,for when you have wated and pent all you have ,then out of doors he will you headlong thrut1 ,calling you racal and hirking ,knave1 ,but o long as you have money1 come early or late ,you hall have her command1 or ele her maid ,kate4 ,to a new tune1 or ,digbys ,farewell4 ,a ,ballad uppoed to be ung by a young man who1 having pent his money in ,ale-houes1 offers ome advice on the ubject4 8,and thus all young men1 you plainly may ee ,this ong it will learn you good hubands to be40 ,collec4 ,eng4 ,ballads4 ,herrick has left us an epigram upon a person of the class described by ,harrison3-- ,spunge makes his boast that he's the onely man1 ,can hold of beere and ale an ocean2 ,is this his glory8 then his triumph's poore2 ,i know the ,tunne of ,hidleberge holds more4 ,profuseness in drinking was accompanied with enormous gluttony in eating4 ,at one of the feasts of the ,court of ,king ,james ,i4-- ,they served up venison1 salmon1 and wild boars1 ,by hundreds1 and by dozens1 and by scores4 #bhe ,hogsheads of honey1 kilderkins of mustard1 ,muttons and fatted beeves1 and bacon swine2 ,herons1 and bitterns1 peacocks1 swan1 and bustard4 ,teal1 mallard1 pigeons1 widgeon1 and in fine1 ,plum puddings1 pancakes1 apple pie and custard4 ,and therewithal they drank good ,gascon wine1 ,with mead1 and ,ale1 and cider of our own4 ,this1 however1 was only a mild repetition of some of the prodigious feasts of former days4 ,on the enthronement of ,george ,nevile as archbishop of ,york1 in the reign of ,edward ,,iv41 the following was the list of eatables which furnished the tables3--#ajd oxen1 #f wild bulls1 #a1jjj sheep1 #cjd calves1 #cjd swine1 #djj swans1 #b1jjj geese1 #a1jjj capons1 #b1jjj pigs1 many thousand of various small birds such as quail1 plovers1 c41 #d1jjj cold venison pasties1 #ejj stags1 #fjh pike and bream1 #ab porpoises and seals1 and many other delicacies4 ,these solids were washed down with #cjj tuns of ale and #ajj tuns of wine and 8one pynt of hypocrass40 ,nor were the clergy behind the laity in their devotion to good living4 ,in ,saxon times the frequent directions to the monks and friars to abstain from excess in eating and drinking1 from haunting ale-houses and from acting the ale-scop or gleeman at such places1 all tell their own tale4 ,the frequency with which from that period the intemperance of the clergy called forth the rebukes of their superiors and the satire of the writers of the day1 show that matters did not mend much as medival times advanced4 ,friar ,tuck1 as depicted in ,ivanhoe1 is probably a type of many a jolly monk of his day4 ,for his drink is assigned 8a but of sack1 a rumlet of malvoisie1 and three hogsheads of ale of the first strike4 ,and if10 continues the ,king1 8that will not quench thy thirst1 thou must come to court1 and be acquainted with my butler40 ,chaucer describes his monk as a free liver and a jolly good fellow1 whose sentiments with regard to the duties of his order are shown in the lines3-- ,the reule of seynt ,maure or of seint ,beneyt1 ,bycause that it was old and somdel streyt1 ,this ilke monk let olde things pace1 ,and held after the newe world the space4 ,the ,friar1 too1 who 8knew the taverns well in every town10 may be taken as a true portrait of a prominent figure of the times4 ,it is recorded that the ,abbey of ,aberbrothwick expended annually #i1jjj #bhf bushels of malt in ale-brewing1 and a popular satire1 perpetuated by ,sir ,walter ,scott on the monks of ,melrose1 declares that-- ,the monks of ,melrose made fat kail ,on ,fridays when they fasted2 ,and neither wanted beef nor ale1 ,so long as their neighbours' lasted4 ,the names of some of the drinks in vogue are exceedingly suggestive2 we read of ,bishop1 ,cardinal1 ,lawn ,sleeves1 ,pope1 and others of a similar character4 ,the ,glutton-masses of the secular clergy1 as described by ,henry in his ,history of ,england1 8were celebrated five times a year1 in honour of the ,virgin ,mary1 in this manner4 ,early in the morning the people of the parish assembled in the church1 loaded with ample stores of meats and drinks of all kinds4 ,as soon as mass ended1 the feast began1 in which the clergy and laity engaged with equal ardour4 ,the church was turned into a tavern1 and became a scene of excessive riot and intemperance4 ,the priests and people of different parishes entered into formal contests1 which of them should have the greatest glutton mass1 i4e41 which of them should devour the greatest quantity of meat and drink in honour of the ,holy ,virgin40 ,the ,tudor period seems to have produced but little amendment in this respect4 ,satirists of the day make constant allusion to the fondness of ecclesiastics1 both exalted and humble1 for strong drink and every kind of sensual indulgence4 ,skelton1 in ,colin ,clout1 speaking of the angry disputes of churchmen when under the influence of drink1 says3-- ,such logic men will chop1 ,and in their fury hop ,when the good ale-sop ,doth dance in their foretop4 ,in the old ,comedy of ,gammer ,gurton's ,needle1 already referred to1 the parson is wanted1 and the old ,gammer gives the boy the following directions for finding him3-- ,hence swithe to ,doctor ,rat1 hye thee that thou were gone1 ,and pray him come speke with me1 cham not well at ease1 ,shall find him at his chamber1 or els at ,mother ,bees1 ,els seek him at ,hobfilcher's shop2 for as charde it reported ,there is the best ,ale in the ,town1 and now is most resorted4 #bhg ,the boy goes forth to seek him as he is ordered2 and when he returns1 ,gammer thus inquires3-- ,gammer3 8,where did'st thou finde him1 ,boy8 was he not wher ,i told thee80 ,cock3 8,yes1 yes1 even at ,hobfilcher's house1 by him that bought and sold me3 ,a cup of ale had in his hand1 and a crab lay in the fier 4 40 ,drunkenness amongst the clergy was probably at this period too common for much mention of it to be made in the various records of ecclesiastical offences4 ,an occasional prosecution1 however1 seems to have been instituted before the ,ordinary4 ,one such may be found in the ,records of the ,ecclesiastical ,court of ,chester1 #aege1 where the ,vicar of ,whalley is charged with being 8a common dronker and ale-knight40 ,the time has happily gone by when a ,swift could write of 8,three or four parsons full of ,october1 ,three or four squires between drunk and sober10 or a ,pope of 8a parson much bemused with beer10 or when the following old ,ballad could be supposed to give a true picture of the habits of village clergymen3-- ,,the ,,parson4 ,a parson who had the remarkable foible ,of minding the bottle much more than the ,bible1 ,was deemed by his neighbours to be less perplex'd ,in handling a tankard than handling a text4 ,perch'd up in his pulpit1 one ,sunday1 he cry'd1 8,make patience1 my dearly beloved1 your guide1 ,and in your distresses1 your troubles1 your crosses1 ,remember the patience of ,job in his losses40 ,the parson had got a stout cask of beer1 ,by way of a present--no matter from where-- ,suffice it to know1 it was toothsome and good1 ,and he lov'd it as well as he did his own blood4 #bhh ,while he the church service in haste rambled o'er1 ,the hogs found a way thro' his old cellar door1 ,and by the strong scent to the beer barrel led ,had knock'd out the spiggot or cock from its head4 ,out spurted the liquor abroad on the ground1 ,the unbidden guests quaffed it merrily round1 ,nor from their diversion and merriment ceas'd ,till ev'ry hog there was as drunk as a beast4 ,and now the grave lecture and prayers at an end1 ,he brings along with him a neighbouring friend1 ,to be a partaker of ,sunday's good cheer1 ,and taste the delightful ,october brew'd beer4 ,the dinner was ready1 the things were laid snug1 8,here1 wife10 says the parson1 8go fetch us a mug10 ,but a mug of what8--he had scarce time to tell her1 ,when1 8yonder10 says she1 8are the hogs in the cellar4 ,to be sure they got in when we're at prayers10 8,to be sure you're a fool10 said he1 8get you down stairs1 ,and bring what ,i bid you1 and see what's the matter4 ,for now ,i myself hear a grunting and clatter40 ,she went1 and returned with sorrowful face1 ,in suitable phrases related the case1 ,he rav'd like a madman about in the room1 ,and then beat his wife and the hogs with the broom4 8,lord1 husband10 said she1 8what a coil you keep here1 ,about a poor beggarly barrel of beer4 ,you should1 #8in your troubles1 mischances1 and crosses1 ,remember the patience of ,job in his losses4'0 8,a plague upon ,job10 cried the priest in his rage1 8,that beer1 ,i dare say1 was near ten years of age2 ,but you're a poor ignorant jade like his wife2 ,for ,job never had such a cask in his life40 ,a curious tale is related of one ,mr4 ,dod1 who had a country living near ,cambridge4 ,being impressed by the intemperance then prevalent in the ,university1 he on one occasion preached a very vigorous condemnatory sermon on the vice of drunkenness4 ,soon after1 several of the #bhi undergraduates1 who were disporting themselves at some little distance from the town1 perceived ,mr4 ,dod jogging along towards them on his old horse4 ,annoyed at the sermon on drinking1 which had probably seemed to them as directed specially against themselves1 the undergraduates rapidly consulted together1 and determined in revenge to make the old man preach a sermon from a text of their own choosing4 ,at first he declined1 but his persecutors were inexorable1 and he was forced to submit with the best grace he could4 8,well1 gentlemen10 he said1 8as you are thus urgent for my compliance1 pray what is the subject ,i am to handle80 ,they answered1 8,sir1 the word malt2 and1 for want of a better1 here1 ,sir1 is your pulpit10 pointing to the stump of a hollow tree that stood by4 ,whereupon the venerable man mounted the rostrum1 and spoke as follows3-- 8,beloved1 8,i am a little man1 come at a short warning1--to deliver a brief discourse1--upon a small subject1--to a thin congregation1 and from an unworthly pulpit4 8,beloved1 my text is-- 8,m ,a ,l ,t1 8,which cannot be divided into words1 it being but one2 nor into syllables1 it being but one3 therefore1 of necessity1 ,i must reduce it into letters1 which ,i find to be these1 8,m--,a--,l--,t4 8,m--my beloved1 is ,moral4 ,a--is ,allegorical4 ,l--is ,literal1 ,t--is ,theological4 8,the moral is set forth to teach you drunkards good manners1 therefore3 ,m--my ,masters4 ,a--,all of you4 ,l--,listen4 ,t--to my ,text4 8,the allegorical is when one thing is spoken1 and another is intended3 the thing expressed is ,,malt2 the thing signified is the oil of ,malt1 which you ,bacchanals make3 ,m--your ,meat4 ,a--your ,apparel4 ,l--your liberty4 ,t--your ,text4 8,the ,literal is according to the letter3 ,m--,much4 ,a--,ale4 ,l--,little4 ,t--,thrift4 8,the ,theological is according to the effects it produces1 which ,i find to consist of two kinds4 ,the first respects this life1 the second1 that which is to come4 8,the effects it produces in this world are in some3 ,m--,murder4 ,a--,adultery4 ,l--,licentious ,lives4 ,t--,treason4 #bij 8,the effects consequent in the world to come are3 ,m--,misery4 ,a--,anguish4 ,l--,lamentation4 ,t--,torment4 8,thus1 sirs1 having briefly opened and explained my short text1 give me leave to make a little use and improvement of the foregoing4 ,first1 by way of exhortation3 ,m--,my ,masters4 ,a--,all of you4 ,l--,look for4 ,t--,torment4 8,now to wind up the whole and draw to a close1 take with you the characteristics of a drunkard4 ,a drunkard is the annoyance of modesty1 the spoil of civility1 his own shame1 his children's curse1 his neighbour's scoff1 the alehouse man's benefactor1 the devil's drudge1 a walking swill-bowl1 the picture of a beast1 and monster of a man40 ,there was a curious custom in vogue at the beginning of the seventeenth century known as 8muggling40 ,it was thus described by ,young1 in ,england's ,bane3 8,i have seen a company amongst the very woods and forests drinking for a muggle4 ,sixe determined to try their strengths who could drinke most glasses for the muggle4 ,the first drinkes a glasse of a pint1 the second two1 the next three1 and so every one multiplieth till the last taketh sixe4 ,then the first beginneth againe and taketh seven1 and in this manner they drinke thrice a peece round1 every man taking a glasse more than his fellow1 so that he that dranke least1 which was the first1 dranke one and twenty pints1 and the sixth man thirty-six40 ,so great was the ale-drinking at this time1 that the headache brought on by it was known by the common expression1 8the ale passion10 and one in liquor was said to have been 8kicked by the brewer's horse40 ,one or two instances1 only1 of the drinking songs popular in olden times can be given here4 ,the ,merry ,fellows1 a song of the ,restoration1 well illustrates the old idea that merriness must be accompanied with potations 8pottle deep03-- ,now1 since we're met1 let's merry1 merry be1 ,in spite of all our foes2 ,and he that will not merry be1 ,we'll pull him by the nose4 ,chorus4 ,let him be merry1 merry there1 ,while we're all merry1 merry here2 ,for who can know where he shall go1 ,to be merry another year4 #bia ,he that will not merry1 merry be1 ,with a generous bowl and a toast1 ,may he in ,bridewell be shut up1 ,and fast bound to a post4 ,let him1 c4 ,he that will not merry1 merry be1 ,and take his glass in course1 ,may he be obliged to drink small beer1 ,ne'er a penny in his purse4 ,let him1 c4 ,he that will not merry1 merry be ,with a company of jolly boys1 ,may he be plagued with a scolding wife ,to confound him with her noise4 ,let him1 c4 ,he that will not merry1 merry be1 ,with his sweetheart by his side1 ,let him be laid in the cold church-yard ,with a head-stone for his bride4 ,let him1 c4 ,cobblers have already been mentioned as devotees of strong malt drinks1 and many a cozier's catch celebrates this propensity4 ,here is one3-- ,come1 sit we here by the fire-side1 ,and roundly drink we here1 ,till that we see our cheeks ale-dyed1 ,and noses tanned with beer4 ,shoemakers and cobblers used to call a red-herring a pheasant1 and in the same inflated style term half a pint of beer half a gallon1 and a pint of beer a gallon1 much after the manner of ,caleb ,balderstone in ,the ,bride of ,lammermoor4 ,tinkers1 too1 swore by ,ceres and not by ,bacchus1 as ,herrick shows in his ,tinker's ,song4 ,along1 come along1 ,let's meet in a throng ,here of tinkers2 #bib ,and quaff up a bowl1 ,as big as a cowl1 ,to beer-drinkers4 ,the pole of the hop ,place in the ale shop1 ,to bethwack us1 ,if ever we think ,so much as to drink ,unto ,bacchus4 ,who frolic will be ,for little cost1 he ,must not vary ,from beer-broth at all ,so much as to call ,for canary4 ,last century may be said to have brought the vice of heavy drinking to its highest pitch4 ,statesmen1 ,judges1 dignitaries of the ,church--all joined in the riotous living of the time4 ,the usual allowance for a moderate man at dinner seems to have been two bottles of port4 ,men were known as two-bottle men1 three and four-bottle men1 and even in some instances six-bottle men4 ,lord ,eldon1 who was himself inclined to get a little merry after dinner1 relates an amusing story in his ,anecdote ,book1 which is illustrative of the habits of the day4 ,he tells how ,jemmy ,boswell1 ,dr4 ,johnson's ,biographer1 while on assize1 so exceeded the bounds of moderation one evening1 that he was found by his friends lying on the pavement very drunk4 ,his comrades1 of whom ,lord ,eldon 7then ,mr4 ,scott7 was one1 subscribed a guinea amongst them1 and sent ,boswell a bogus brief1 instructing him to move the ,court the next day for a writ of ,quare adhsit pavimento4 ,much to the astonishment of the learned ,judge who presided1 ,mr4 ,boswell actually made the application in due course4 ,the whole court was convulsed with laughter1 and the unfortunate counsel1 turning this way and that in his perplexity1 knew not what to make of it4 ,at last a learned friend came to his assistance4 8,my lord10 he said1 8,mr4 ,boswell adhsit pavimento last night2 there was no moving him for some time4 ,at length he was carried to bed1 and has been dreaming of what happened to himself40 ,where such manners prevailed in the #bic upper ranks of life1 the lower orders were not likely to be more sober4 ,as a matter of fact1 gin ran riot amongst the working classes in the great centres of population1 spreading corruption of morals and ruin of health on every side4 ,one more instance of a huge drinker may be given3 ,one ,jedediah ,buxton was curious enough in his drinking habits to calculate the number of pints of ale or strong beer that he had drunk free of cost to himself since he was twelve years of age1 and the names of the gentlemen at whose houses he had consumed them4 ,the list began with the ,duke of ,kingston1 #b1acj pints2 ,duke of ,norfolk1 #bff pints2 ,duke of ,leeds1 #bcb1 and so on through a long list1 of which it need only be said the total amounted to #e1aaf pints or winds1 as he termed them1 because1 he said1 he never took more than one wind1 or breath1 to a pint and two to a quart4 ,surely this man deserves to rank among the curiosities of the subject4 ,happily times have changed and drunkenness1 we may hope1 will soon cease to be counted a national vice4 ,bearing in mind the excesses to which drinking was carried in the last century1 it cannot be denied that much progress has been made in the direction of moderation2 and that the habits of the whole people--slow and difficult as such habits are to change--have undergone a very marked improvement4 ,ere the next century has had time to grow from youth to old age1 it may be impossible to find in any rank of the population a man who could say of an evening's amusement like the old ,scotch ,shepherd1 8,it was a grand treat1 for before the end o't there was na ane of us able to bite his ain thoomb60 ,illustration #bid ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xi4 ',tis ,ale1 immortal ,ale ,i sing6 ,bid all the ,muses throng6 ,bid them awake each slumbering string1 ,till the loud chords responsive ring ,to swell the lofty song6 ,brasenose ,college ,shrovetide ,poem4 ,these venerable ancient song inditers ,soar'd many a pitch above our modern writers2 ,our numbers may be more refin'd than those1 ,but what we've gained in verse we've lost in prose2 ,their words no shuffling double meaning knew1 ,their speech was homely1 but their hearts were true4 ,rowe4 ,,old ,,ballads1 ,,songs ,,and ,,verses ,,relating ,,to ,,ale ,,and ,,beer4 ,long ago1 in the merry days when the chilling influence of ,puritanism had not yet put an end to the majority of our sports and pastimes1 and when anyone who had ventured to speak of a ,may-pole as a 8,stinckyng ,idoll0 would most likely have been ducked in the nearest pond as a proper reward for his calumny1 the lower orders of ,england were far more musical than at present2 and there existed a great demand for ballads to be sung at village merry-makings1 ale-house gatherings1 and during the long winter evenings which would have been dull indeed without the cheering influence of song4 #bie ,of the quaint old ballads1 written mostly in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries1 a splendid collection was made by the ,earl of ,oxford 7born in #affa71 to whom we are also indebted for the ,harleian ,,mss41 now in the ,british ,museum4 ,these ballads are known as the ,roxburghe ,collection1 and a selection of them is given in this chapter1 together with facsimile reproductions of the curious woodcuts with which the originals are adorned4#fb #fb ,most of the ,roxburghe ,ballads have been reprinted by the ,ballad ,society1 and for the very scanty information we have been able to gather concerning them we are in a great measure indebted to the ,editors of these reprints4 ,our illustrations have been taken in every case from the original ballads1 and are1 we believe1 the only exact facsimile reproductions in existence4 ,the most important ballad connected with the subject of ale and beer is ,sir ,john ,barley-corne1 of which there are many versions4 ,it seems very probable that the original is not in existence1 for at a very early date songs bearing the same name1 and containing in effect the same words1 were known both in the ,north of ,england and in the ,west ,country4 ,in later editions of ,sir ,john ,barley-corne old printers seem to have frequently varied the text1 and in recent times ,burns has recast the verses of the old ballad4 ,the version given below is the oldest in the ,roxburghe ,collection1 and must have been written at some time previous to the reign of ,james ,i4 ,to anyone who has perused these pages so far1 the pretty allegory contained in the ballad will not require explanation1 but it may be well to point out that ,sir ,john is the grain of barley which the farmer1 the maltster1 the miller1 and the brewer do their best to destroy4 ,however1 after having forced ,sir ,john to go through the various processes of agriculture1 malting1 and brewing1 a friend1 ,thomas ,good-ale1 comes to the poor fellow's assistance with mickle might1 and takes 8their tongues away1 their legs or else their sight40 ,the illustration is taken from a later version4 ,,sir ,,john ,,barley-,,corne4 ,a pleasant new ,ballad to sing both even and morne ,of the bloody ,murther of ,sir ,john ,barley-corne4 ,to the tune of ,shall ,i lye beyond thee4 #bif ,illustration ,as ,i went through the ,north countrey1 ,i heard a merry greeting1 ,a pleasant toy and full of joy1 two noblemen were meeting4 ,and as they walkd for to sport1 upon a summer's day1 ,then with another nobleman1 they went to make a fray4 ,whose name was ,sir ,john ,barley-corne2 he dwelt down in a dale2 ,who had a kinsman dwelt him nigh1 they cal'd him ,thomas ,good-ale4 ,another namd ,richard ,beere was ready at that time1 ,another worthy ,knight was there1 call'd ,sir ,william ,white-wine4 ,some of them fought in a ,blacke-,jack1 some of them in a ,can2 ,but the chiefest in a blacke-pot1 like a worthy alderman4 #big ,sir ,barly-corn fought in a ,boule1 who wonne the victorie2 ,and made them all to fume and swear that ,barly-corne should die4 ,some said ,kill him some said ,drown others wisht to hang him hie-- ,for as many as follow ,barly-corne1 shall surely beggers die4 ,then with a plough they plow'd him up1 and thus they did devise1 ,to burie him quicke within the earth1 and swore he should not rise4 ,with harrowes strong they combd him1 and burst clods on his head1 ,a joyful banquet then was made1 when ,barly-corne was dead4 ,he rested still within the earth1 till raine from skies did fall1 ,then he grew up in branches greene1 which sore amaz'd them all4 ,and so grew up till midsommer1 which made them all afeard2 ,for he was sprouted up on hie and got a goodly beard4 ,then he grew till ,s4 ,james's-tide1 his countenance was wan1 ,for he was growne unto his strength1 and thus became a man4 ,with hookes and sickles keene into the field they hide1 ,they cut his legs off by the knees1 and made him wounds full wide4 #bih ,thus bloodily they cut him downe1 from place where he did stand1 ,and like a thiefe for treachery1 they bound him in a band4 ,so then they tooke him up againe1 according to his kind1 ,and packt him up in severall stackes to wither with the wind4 ,and with a pitchforke that was sharpe1 they rent him to the heart2 ,and like a thiefe for treason vile1 they bound him in a cart4 ,and tending him with weapons strong1 unto the towne they hie1 ,and straight they mowed him in a mow1 and there they let him lie4 ,then he lay groning by the wals1 till all his wounds were sore1 ,at length they tooke him up againe1 and cast him on the floore4 ,they hyrd two with holly clubs1 to beat on him at once1 ,they thwackd so on ,barly-corne that flesh fell from his bones4 ,and then they tooke him up againe1 to fulfill women's minde1 ,they dusted and they sifted him1 till he was almost blind4 ,and then they knit him in a sacke1 which grievd him full sore1 ,they steep'd him in a ,fat1 ,god-wot1 for three days space and more4 #bii ,then they took him up againe1 and laid him for to drie1 ,they cast him on a chamber floore1 and swore that he should die4 ,they rubbd him and stirrd him1 and still they did him turne ,the malt-man swore that he should die1 his body he would burne4 ,they spightfully tooke him up againe and threw him on a ,kill2 ,so dried him there with fire hot1 and thus they wrought their will4 ,then they brought him to the mill and there they burst his bones1 ,the miller swore to murther him1 betwixt a paire of stones4 ,then they tooke him up againe and serv'd him worse then that2 ,for with hot scalding liquor store1 they washt him in a ,fat4 ,but not content with this1 ,god-wot1 they did him mickle harme1 ,with threatening words they promisd1 to beat him into barme4 ,and lying in this danger deep1 for feare that he should quarrell1 ,they tooke him straight out of the fat and tunn'd him in a barrell4 ,and then they set a tap to him1 even thus his death begun1 ,they drew out every dram of blood1 whilst any drop would run4 #cjj ,some brought jacks1 upon their backes1 some brought bill and bow1 ,and every man his weapon had ,barly-corne to overthrow4 ,when ,sir ,john ,good-ale heard of this1 he came with mickle might1 ,and there he tooke their tongues away1 their legs1 or else their sight4 ,and thus ,sir ,john in each respect1 so paid them all their hire1 ,that some lay sleeping by the way1 some tumbling in the mire4 ,some lay groning by the wals1 some in the streets downe right1 ,the best of them did scarcely know what they had done ore-night4 ,all you good wives that brew good ,ale1 ,god turne from you all teene1 ,but if you put too much water in the devill put out your eyne6 8,printed for ,john ,wright and are to be sold at his ,shop in ,guilt ,spurre ,street at the sign of the ,bible40 ,another version commences3-- ,there were two brothers liv'd under yon hill1 ,as it might be you and ,i2 ,and one of them did solemnly swear ,that ,sir ,john ,barley-corn should die4 ,burns' ballad commences3-- ,there went three ,kings into the ,east1 ,three ,kings both great and high1 ,and they have sworn a solemn oath ,john ,barleycorn should die1 #cja and ends-- ,then let us toast ,john ,barleycorn1 ,each man a glass in hand1 ,and may his great posterity ,ne'er fail in old ,scotland4 ,burns1 no doubt1 founded his ballad on the ,west ,country ,sir ,john ,barleycorn1 which1 according to ,robert ,bell1 in his annotated edition of ancient ballads1 can set up a better claim to antiquity than any copy in the ,roxburghe ,collection4 ,it commences thus3-- ,there came three men out of the ,west ,their victory to try2 ,and they have taken solemn oath1 ,poor ,barleycorn should die4 ,this1 by the way1 reads like the origin of a teetotal movement4 ,printed on the same sheet as the ,sir ,john ,barley-corne of the ,roxburghe ,collection is another old ballad of probably the same date1 the author of which is unknown4 ,it has no illustration1 and is entitled3-- ,a new ,ballad for you to looke on1 ,how mault doth deale with everyone4 99 99 99 99 99 ,to the tune of ,triumph and ,joy4 99 99 99 99 99 ,mas ,mault he is a genleman1 ,and hath beene since the world began1 ,i never knew yet any man1 ,that could match with ,master ,mault1 ,sir1 ,i never knew any match ,mault but once1 ,the ,miller with his grinding stones1 ,he laid them so close that he crusht his bones2 ,you never knew the like1 ,sir4 ,mault1 ,mault1 thou art a flowre2 ,thou art beloved in every bowre1 ,thou canst not be missing one halfe howre2 ,you never saw the like1 ,sir4 ,for laying of his stones so close ,mault gave the ,miller a copper nose1 ,saying1 ,thou and ,i will never be foes1 ,but unto thee ,i sticke1 ,sir4 #cjb ,mault gave the miller such a blow1 ,that from his horse he fell full low2 ,he taught him his master ,mault for to know2 ,you never saw the like1 ,sir1 ,our hostesse maid she was to blame1 ,she stole ,master ,mault away from her dame1 ,and in her belly she hid the same1 ,you never saw the like1 ,sir4 ,so when the ,mault did worke in her head1 ,twice a day she would be sped1 ,at night she could not goe to bed1 ,nor scarce stand on her feet1 ,sir4 ,then came in the ,master ,smith1 ,and said that ,mault he was a thief2 ,but ,mault gave him such a dash in the teeth1 ,you never saw the like1 ,sir4 ,for when his iron was hot and red1 ,he had such an ach all in his head1 ,the ,smith was faine to get him to bed1 ,for then he was very ,sicke1 ,sir4 ,the carpender came a peece to square1 ,he bad ,mault come out if he dare1 ,he would empty his belly and beat his sides bare1 ,that he knew not where to sit1 ,sir4 ,to fire he went1 with an arme full of chips1 ,mault hit him right betweene his lips1 ,and made him lame in both his hips2 ,you never saw the like1 ,sir4 ,the shooe-maker sitting upon his seat1 ,with ,master ,mault he began to fret1 ,he said he would the ,knave so beat1 ,you never saw the like1 ,sir4 ,the writer1 in a number of verses1 then shows how 8,mas ,mault0 deals with the shoemaker1 the weaver1 the tailor1 the tinker1 and the sailor1 including the chapman1 a person of interest to us as the retailer of such ballads as these4 ,then came the ,chapman travelling by1 ,and said1 #8my ,masters ,i will be w' ye1 #cjc ,indeed1 ,master ,mault1 my mouth is dry1 ,i will gnaw you with my teeth1 ,sir4 ,the chapman he laid on apace1 ,till store of blood came in his face1 ,but ,mault brought him in such a case1 ,you never saw the like1 ,sir4 ,several other persons are then dealt with1 and the ballad ends with the lines3-- ,thus of my song ,i will make an end ,and pray my hostesse to be my friend1 ,to give me some drink now my money is spend1 ,then ,mault and ,i am quite1 ,sir4 ,the tune to which this ballad is to be sung is probably the same as the old air ,greene ,sleeves4 ,a song near akin to the foregoing1 also showing the effects of barley wine1 is ,the ,little ,barley ,corn4 ,it is evidently of the time of ,charles ,i41 from the allusions it contains to the ,king's great ,porter1 and to ,banks1 whose performing horse is mentioned4 ,,the ,,little ,,barley-,,corn4 99 99 99 99 99 ,whose properties and vertues here ,shall plainly to the world appeare2 ,to make you merry all the yeere4 ,to the tune of ,stingo4 ,illustration #cjd ,come1 and doe not musing stand1 if thou the truth discerne2 ,but take a full cup in thy hand and thus begin to learne1 ,not of the earth nor of the ayre1 at evening or at morne1-- ,but joviall boys your ,christmas keep with the ,little ,barley-corn4 ,it is the cunningst alchymist that e're was in the land2 ',twill change your mettle when it list1 in turning of a hand4 ,your blushing gold to silver wan1 your silver into brasse1-- ',twill turn a taylor to a man1 and a man into an asse4 ',twill make a poore man rich to hang a sign before his doore2 ,and those that doe the pitcher bang1 though rich1 'twill make them poor1 ',twill make the silliest poorest snake the ,king's great ,porter scorne2 ',twill make the stoutest lubber weak1 this little ,barley-,corn4 ,it hath more shifts than ,lambe ere had1 or ,hocus-pocus too2 ,it will good fellowes shew more sport then ,bankes his horse could doe2 ',twill play you faire above the boord1 unlesse you take good heed1 ,and fell you1 though you were a ,lord1 and justify the deed4 ,it lends more yeeres unto old age1 than ere was lent by nature2 ,it makes the poet's fancy rage1 more than ,castalian water4 #cje ',twill make a huntsman chase a fox1 and never winde his horne2 ',twill cheer a tinker in the stockes1 this little barley-corn4 ,it is the only ,will o' th' ,wisp which leades men from the way2 ',twill make the tongue-ti'd lawyer lisp1 and nought but 7hic up7 say4 ',twill make the ,steward droope and stoop1 his bils he then will scorne1 ,and at each post cast his reckoning up1 this little barley-corn4 ',twill make a man grow jealous soone1 whose pretty wife goes trim1 ,and raile at the deceiving moone for making hornes at him3 ',twill make the maidens trimly dance1 and take it in no scorne1 ,and helpe them to a friend by chance1 this little barley-corn4 ,it is the neatest serving-man1 to entertaine a friend2 ,it will doe more than money can all jarring suits to end3 ,there's life in it1 and it is here1 'tis here within this cup2 ,then take your liquor1 doe not spare1 but cleare carouse it up4 ,to this ballad there is a second part to much the same effect4 ,we give the illustration and a few verses4 ,both parts are in the ,roxburghe ,collection4 ,the ,second ,part of the ,little ,barley-corne ,that cheereth the heart both evening and morne4 ,to the same tune4 #cjf ,illustration ,if sicknesse come1 this physick take1 it from your heart will set it2 ,if feare incroach1 take more of it1 your head will soone forget it2 ,apollo1 and the ,muses nine1 doe take it in no scorne2 ,there's no such stuffe to passe the time as the little ,barley-corne4 ',twill make a weeping widdow laugh and soone incline to pleasure2 ',twill make an old man leave his staffe and dance a youthful measure3 ,and though your clothes be nere so bad all ragged rent and torne1 ,against the cold you may be clad with the little ,barley-corne4 99 99 99 99 99 ,thus the ,barley-,corne hath power even for to change our nature1 ,and make a shrew1 within an houre1 prove a kind-hearted creature3 ,and therefore here1 ,i say againe1 let no man tak't in scorne1 ,that ,i the vertues doe proclaime of the little ,barley-corne40 ,printed at ,london for ,e4 ,b4 ,the following song in praise of ale is taken from ,london ,chanticleers1 a rude sketch of a play printed in #afei1 but evidently much older4 ,the #cjg reference to being 8without hops0 in the verse vii4 is noticeable4 ,it will be remembered that the ale which our forefathers drank was made without hops1 which 8pernicious weeds0 were only used in the 8,dutchman's strong beere40 ,i4 ,submit1 ,bunch of ,grapes1 ,to the strong ,barley ear2 ,the weak wine no longer ,the laurel shall wear4 ,,ii4 ,sack1 and all drinks else1 ,desist from the strife3 ,ale's the only ,aqua ,vit1 ,and liquor of life4 ,,iii4 ,then come my boon fellows1 ,let's drink it around2 ,it keeps us from grave1 ,though it lays us on ground4 ,,iiii4 ,ale's a ,physician1 ,no ,mountebank ,bragger3 ,can cure the chill ,ague1 ,though it be with the ,stagger4 ,v4 ,ale's a strong ,wrestler1 ,flings all it hath met2 ,and makes the ground slippery1 ,though it be not wet4 ,,vi4 ,ale is both ,ceres ,and good ,neptune too2 ,ale's froth was the sea1 ,from which ,venus grew4 ,,vii4 ,ale is immortal3 ,and be there no stops ,in bonny lad's quaffing1 ,can live without hops4 #cjh ,,viii4 ,then come my boon fellows1 ,let's drink it around3 ,it keeps us from grave1 ,though it lays us on ground4 ,the ballad entitled the ,merry ,hoastess is probably of an earlier date than #affd4 ,it bears the initials ,t4 ,r41 and was1 perhaps1 composed by ,thomas ,randal4 ,the tune to which it was sung is a capital one1 and is to be found in ,mr4 ,william ,chappell's ,popular ,music4 ,this ballad is in the first volume of the ,roxburghe ,collection4 ,,the ,,merry ,,hoastess or ,a pretty new ,ditty1 compos'd by an ,hoastess that lives in the ,city1 ,to wrong such an ,hoastess it were a great ,pitty1 ,by reason she caused this pretty new ,ditty4 ,to the tune of ,buffcoat has no fellow4 ,illustration #cji ,come all that loves good company1 and hearken to my ditty1 ',tis of a lovely ,hoastess fine1 that lives in ,london ,city2 ,which sells good ale1 nappy and stale1 and alwayes thus sings she1 ,my ale was tunn'd1 when ,i was young1 and a little above my knee4 ,her ale is lively1 strong and stout1 if you please but to taste2 ,it is well brew'd you need not fear1 but ,i pray you make no waste3 ,it is lovely brown1 the best in town1 and alwayes thus sings she1 ,my ale was tunn'd when ,i was young1 and a little above my knee4 ,the gayest lady with her fan1 doth love such nappy ale1 ,both city maids and country girls that carries the milking pail3 ,will take a touch and not think much to sing so merrily1 ,my ale was tunn'd when ,i was young1 and a little above my knee4 ,both lord and esquire hath a desire unto it night and day1 ,for a quart or two be it old or new1 and for it they will pay1 ,with pipe in hand1 they may her command to sing most merrily1 ,my ale was tunn'd when ,i was young1 and a little above my knee4 ,you'r welcome all brave gentlemen1 if you please to come in1 ,to take a cup ,i do intend1 and a health for to begin3 ,to all the merry joval blades1 that will sing for company1 ,my ale was tunn'd when ,i was young1 and a little above my knee4 #caj ,here's a health to all brave ,englishmen1 that loves this cup of ale2 ,let every man fill up his can1 and see that none do fail2 ',tis very good to nourish the blood1 and make you sing with me1 ,my ale was tunn'd when ,i was young1 and a little above my knee4 ,,second ,,part4 ,illustration ,the bonny ,scot will lay a plot to get a handsome tutch ,of this my ale1 so good and stale1 so will the cunning ,dutch3 ,they will take a part with all their heart1 to sing this tune with me1 ,my ale was tunn'd when ,i was young1 and a little above my knee4 ,it will make the ,irish cry ,a-hone6 if they but take their fill1 ,and put them all quite out of tune let them use their chiefest skill4 #caa ,so strong and stout it will hold out in any company1 ,for my ale was tunn'd when ,i was young1 and a little above my knee4 ,the ,welchman on ,st4 ,david's day will cry1 ,cots plutter a nail1 ,hur will hur ferry quite away1 from off that nappy ale2 ,it makes hur foes with hur red nose1 hur seldom can agree1 ,but my ale was tunn'd when ,i was young1 and a little above my knee4 ,the ,spaniard stout will have a bout1 'cause he hath store of gold1 ,till at the last1 he is laid fast1 my ale doth him so hold3 ,his ponyard strong is laid along1 yet he is good company1 ,for my ale was tunn'd when ,i was young1 and a little above my knee4 ,there's never a tradesman in ,england1 that can my ale deny1 ,the weaver1 taylor and glover delights it for to buy1 ,small money they do take away1 if that they drink with me1 ,for my ale was tunn'd when ,i was young1 and a little above my knee4 ,there is ,smug the honest ,blacksmith1 he seldom can pass be1 ,because a spark lies in his throat which makes him very dry3 ,but my old ale tells him his tale1 so finely we agree1 ,for my ale was tunn'd when ,i was young1 and a little above my knee4 ,the brewer1 baker and butcher1 as well as all the rest1 #cab ,both night and day will watch where they may find ale of the best3 ,and the gentle craft will come full oft1 to drink a cup with me1 ,for my ale was tunn'd when ,i was young1 and a little above my knee4 ,so to conclude good fellows all1 ,i bid you all adieu1 ,if that you love a cup of ale1 take rather old than new1 ,for if you come where ,i do dwell1 and chance to drink with me1 ,my ale was tunn'd when ,i was young1 and a little above my knee4 ,the following poem in praise of ,yorkshire ,ale was written in the seventeenth century4 ,the author is given on the title page as 8,g4 ,m4 ,gent40 ,the little volume1 somewhat rare nowadays1 was printed at ,york in #afig1 by ,f4 ,white1 for ,francis ,hildyard1 at the sign of the ,bible in ,stone ,gate4 ,,the ,,praise ,,of ,,yorkshire ,,ale ,wherein is enumerated several sorts of ,drink1 and a ,description of the ,humors of most sorts of ,drunkards4 ,to ,which is added1 a ,yorkshire ,dialogue1 in its pure natural ,dialect1 as it is now commonly spoken in the ,north parts of ,yorkshire4 ,bacchus having called a ,parliament of late1 ,for to consult about some things of state1 ,nearly concerning the honour of his ,court ,to the ,sun1 behind th' ,exchange1 they did resort3 ,where being met1 and many things that time ,concerning the ,adulterating ,wine1 ,and other liquors2 selling of ,ale in ,muggs1 ,silver ,tankards1 ,black-,pots1 and little ,jugs3 ,stronge ,beer in ,rabits1 and cheating penny cans1 ,three pipes for two pence and such like ,trepans3 ,vintners' small bottles1 silver-mouthed black ,jacks1 #cac 99 99 99 99 99 ,and many other things were there debated1 ,and ,bills passed upon the cases stated2 ,and all things ready for ,adjournment1 then ,stood up one of the ,northern countrymen1 ,a boon good fellow1 and lover of strong ,ale1 ,whose tongue well steep'd in ,sack begun this ,tale4 8,my bully ,rocks1 ,i've been experienced long ,in most of liquors1 which are counted strong2 ,of ,claret1 ,white-wine and ,canary ,sack1 ,renish and ,malago1 ,i've had no lack1 ,sider1 ,perry1 ,metheglin1 and ,sherbet1 ,coffee and ,mead1 with ,punch and ,chocolet3 ,rum and ,tea1 ,azora wine1 ,mederry1 ,vin-de-,paree1 ,brag1 wine with ,rosemary3 ,stepony1 ,usquebath1 besides all these1 ,aqua ,clestis ,cinnamon1 ,heart's ease2 ,brave ,rosa ,solis1 and other ,liquors fine1 ,rasberry ,wine1 ,pur-royal1 and ,shampine1 ,malmsey and ,viper-wine1 all these ,i pass2 ,frontineack2 with excellent ,ipocras3 99 99 99 99 99 8,tent1 ,muskatine1 ,brandy and ,alicant ,of all these liquors ,i've had no scant1 ,and several others2 but none do ,i find1 ,like humming ,northern ,ale to pleas my mind1 ,it's pleasant to the taste1 strong and mellow1 ,he that affects it not1 is no boon fellow4 99 99 99 99 99 8,it warms in winter1 in summer opes the pores1 ',twill make a ,sovereign ,salve 'gainst cuts and sores2 ,it ripens wit1 exhillerates the mind1 ,makes friends of foes1 and foes of friends full kind2 ,it's physical for old men1 warms their blood1 ,its spirits makes the ,coward's courage good3 ,the tatter'd ,beggar being warmed with ,ale1 ,nor rain1 hail1 frost1 nor snow can him assail1 ,he's a good man with him can then compare1 ,it makes a ,prentise great as the ,lord ,mayor2 ,the ,labouring man1 that toiles all day full sore1 ,a pot of ale at night1 doth him restore1 #cad ,and makes him all his toil and paines forget1 ,and for another day's work1 hee's then fit4 99 99 99 99 99 8,oh the rare virtues of this ,barly ,broth2 ,to rich and poor it's ,meat ,drink and ,cloth40 ,the ,court here stopt him1 and the ,prince did say1 8,where can we find this ,nectar1 ,i thee pray10 ,the boon good fellow answered1 8,i can tell1 ,north ,allerton in ,yorkshire doth excell ,all ,england1 nay all ,europe for strong ,ale1 ,if thither we adjourn we shall not fail ,to taste such humming stuff1 as1 ,i dare say1 ,your ,highness never tasted to this day40 ,bacchus' ,court then adjourns to ,north ,allerton1 and imbibes the noble ale kept at ,madame ,bradley's1 with this result3-- ,for arguments some were and learned discourses1 ,som talk'd of greyhounds1 som of running horses1 ,som talk'd of hounds1 and some of ,cock o' th game1 ,som nought but hawks1 and setting dogs did name1 ,som talk'd of ,battels1 ,sieges and great wars1 ,and what great ,wounds and cutts they had and scars1 99 99 99 99 99 ,some there were all for drinking healths about1 ,others did rub the table with their ,snout 99 99 99 99 99 ,some broke the pipes1 and round about them threw1 ,some smoak'd tobacco till their nose was blew4 ,some called for victuals others for a crust1 ,some op'd their ,buttons and were like to bust1 ,som challeng'd all the people that were there ,and some with strange invented oaths did sweer1 99 99 99 99 99 ,some fill'd the room with noise yet could not speak1 ,one word of ,english1 ,latine1 ,french and ,greek 99 99 99 99 99 ,some burnt their ,hats1 others the ,windowes broke1 ,some cry'd more liquor we are like to choke1 99 99 99 99 99 #cae ,lame gouty men did dance about so sprightly1 ,a boy of fifteen scarce could skip so lightly1 ,old crampy ,capts4 that scarce a sword could draw1 ,swore now they'd keep the ,king of ,france in awe1 ,and new commissions get to raise more men1 ,for now they swore they were grown young again2 ,off went their ,perriwigs1 ,coats and ,rapers1 ,out went the candles1 ,noses for ,tapers ,serv'd to give light1 while they did daunce around1 ,drinking full healthes with caps upon the ground3 99 99 99 99 99 ,this moved ,bacchus presently to call ,for a great jug which held about five quarts1 ,and filling to the ,brim2 come here my hearts ,said he1 wee'l drink about this merry health1 ,to th' honour of the ,town1 their state1 their wealth1 99 99 99 99 99 ,and for the sake of this good nappy ale1 ,of my great favour it shall never fail1 ,bacchus and his party having once tasted the ale1 drink all the casks out-- then out they pull'd the ,taps ,and stuck the ,spiddocks finely in their hats1 ,the ,court then adjourns to ,easingwold-- ,with ,nanny ,driffield there to drink a glass ,for ,bacchus having heard of her strong ale1 ,he swore by ,jupiter1 he would not fail ,to have a merry bout if he did find ,her nappy ale to please his princely ,mind2 ,bacchus is so delighted with the ale that he grants her letters patent4 ,bacchus ,prince of good fellows2 ,to all to whom ,these our brave letters ,pattents shall now come1 ,whereas wee've been informed now of late1 ,that ,nanny ,driffield our great court and state ,for many years last past has much advanced ,by her strong humming ale4 4 4 4 99 99 99 99 99 #caf ,this land-lady unto the noble state1 ,and honour of a countess we create2 ,and by our merry fuddling subjects1 she ,countess of ,stingo henceforth call'd shall be4 ,some townsmen then come in1 and a contest is arranged between the ale-drinkers and the wine-drinkers1 in which the latter are of course worsted4 #a ,colonus and ,bacchus did meet ,each one to commend his own liquor2 ,the ,juice of the ,grape was sweet2 ,but ,barly ,oyle ran down the quicker2 ,colonus did challenge the ,gods1 ,to fight in defence of his ,barley1 ,but ,bacchus perceiving the odds1 ,desir'd a friendly parley4 #b ,they drunk full ,bumpers about1 ,and ,bacchus an health did begin1 ,the ,bacchanalians gave a great shout1 ,the ,colonians then thronged fast in3 ,they drunk double ,tankards around1 ,till the ,grape ,boyes begun for to glore1 ,the ,rusticks neer flinch'd their ground1 ,till ,bacchus fell down to the ,floor4 #c ,colonus did heartily laugh1 ,and about the ,god they did daunce1 ,full pots about they did quaff3 ,whilest ,bacchus lay still in a ,trance2 ,the grape boyes were beat out of play1 ,and at length poor ,bacchus did rise2 ,to ,colonus he yielded the day1 ,so the ,rusticks obtaind the ,prize4 ,bacchus1 on coming to1 adjourns his court to ,york1 where they again taste-- ,both from ,north ,allerton and ,easingwold1 ,from ,sutton1 ,thirke1 likewise from ,rascal ,town1 4 4 4 ,ale also that's called ,knocker-down-- 99 99 99 99 99 #cag ,they tasted all2 ,and swore they were full glad1 ,such ,stingoe1 ,nappy1 pure ale they had found1 ,let's loose no time said they but drink around4 ,the ,yorkshire ,ale1 however1 proves too strong for ,bacchus and his ,court1 and a final adjournment ,south is made1 though-- ,bacchus swore to come he would not fail ,to glut himself with ,yorkshire nappy ale4 ,it is so pleasant1 mellow too and fine1 ,that ,bacchus swore hee'd never more drink wine4 ,those who wish to peruse the 8,yorkshire ,dialogue in its pure natural ,dialect0 are referred to the ,british ,museum4 ,in the ,roxburghe ,collection are nineteen ballads by ,lawrence ,price1 a celebrated writer of the time of ,charles ,i4 ,he wrote chap-books1 riddles1 and political squibs in rhyme4 ,the following rollicking drinking song is from his pen4 ,only one copy of it is known to be in existence4 ,,good ,,ale ,,for ,,my ,,money4 ,the ,good-fellowes resolution of strong ,ale1 ,that cures his nose from looking pale4 ,to the tune of ,the ,countrey ,lasse4 ,illustration #cah ,be merry my friends1 and list a while unto a merry jest1 ,it may from you produce a smile when you hear it exprest1 ,of a younge man lately married1 which was a boone good fellow1 ,this song in 's head he alwaies carried1 when drinke had made him mellow1 ,i cannot go home1 nor ,i will not go home its long of the oyle of ,barly2 ,ile tarry all night for my delight1 and go home in the morning early4 ,no tapster stout1 or ,vintner fine quoth he shall euer get ,one groat out of this purse of mine to pay his master's debt3 ,why should ,i deal with sharking ,rookes1 that seeke poore gulls to cozen1 ,to giue twelue pence for a quart of wine1 of ale 'twill buy a dozen4 ',twill make me sing1 ,i cannot1 c4 ,the old renowned ,ipocrist and ,raspie doth excell1 ,but neuer any wine could yet my honour please to swell1 ,the ,rhenish wine or ,muskadine1 sweet ,malmsie is too fulsome ,no giue me a cup of ,barlie broth1 for that is very wholesome1 ',twill make me sing1 ,i cannot1 c4 ,hot waters ar to me as death1 and soone the head oreturneth1 ,and ,nectar hath so strong a breath ,canary when it burneth1 ,it cures no paine but breaks the braine1 and raps out oaths and curses1 ,and makes men part with heauiy heart1 but light it makes their purses1 ,i cannot go home1 c4 #cai ,some say ,metheglin beares the name1 with ,perry and sweet ,sider1 ',twill bring the body out of frame1 and reach the belly wider ,which to preuent ,i am content with ale that's good and nappie1 ,and when thereof ,i haue enough ,i thinke myself most happy4 ,i cannot go home1 c4 ,all sorts of men when they do meet both trade and occupation1 ,with curtesie each other greet1 and kinde humiliation2 ,a good coale fire is their desire1 whereby to sit and parly ,theyle drink their ale and tell a tale1 and go home in the morning early4 ,i cannot go home1 c4 ,your domineering swaggering blades1 and caualiers that flashes1 ,that throw the ,jugs against the walls and break in peeces glasses ,when ,bacchus round cannot be found they will in merriment ,drinke ale and beere and cast of care and sing with one consent ,i cannot goe home1 c4 ,the title-page of the following poem tells its history3-- ,,the ,,high ,,and ,,mightie ,,commendation ,,of ,,the ,,vertue ,,of ,a ,,pot ,,of ,,good ,,ale4 99 99 99 99 99 ,full of wit without offence1 of mirth without obscenities1 of pleasure without scurrelitie and of good content without distaste 99 99 99 99 99 #cbj ,whereunto is added the valiant battell fought betweene the ,norfolk ,cock and the ,wisbich ,cock4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illustration ,written by ,thomas ,randall4 ,london3 ,printed for ,f4 ,cowles2 ,t4 ,bates2 and ,j4 ,wright4 ,,mdcxlii ,,the ,,high ,,and ,,mightie ,,commendation ,,of ,,the ,,vertue ,,of ,a ,,pot ,,of ,,good ,,ale4 ,not drunk nor sober1 7but neighbour to both17 ,i met with a friend in ,alesberry vale2 ,he saw by my face1 that ,i was in the case1 ,to speak no great harm of a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,and as we did meet1 and friendly did greet1 ,he put me in mind of the name of the ,dale1 ,that for ,alesberries sake1 some paines ,i would take1 ,and not burie the praise of a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,the more to procure me1 then did he adjure me1 7,if the ale ,i drank last1 were nappie and stale17 ,to doe it its right1 and stir up my spright1 ,and fall to commend a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 #cba ,quoth ,i1 to commend it1 ,i dare not begin1 ,lest therein my cunning might happen to faile1 ,for many there be that count it a sin1 ,but once to look towards a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,yet ,i care not a pin1 for ,i see no such sin1 ,nor any else that my courage may quaile1 ,for this ,i do find1 being taken in kind1 ,much vertue there is in a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,when heavinesse the mind doth oppresse1 ,and sorrow and griefe the heart doth assaile1 ,no remedy quicker but take up your liquour1 ,and wash away care with a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,the ,priest and the ,clark1 whose sights are dark1 ,and the print of the letter doth seeme too small1 ,they will con every letter1 and read service better1 ,if they glaze but their eyes with a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,the ,poet divine1 that cannot reach wine1 ,because that his money doth oftentimes faile1 ,will hit on the veine1 and reach the high straine1 ,if he be but inspired with a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,all writers of ,ballads1 for such whose mishap ,from ,newgate up ,holbourne to ,tyburne doe saile1 ,shall have sudden expression of all their confession1 ,if the ,muse be but dew'd with a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,the ,prisoner that is enclos'd in the grate1 ,will shake off remembrance of bondage and jaile1 ,of hunger or cold1 or fetters or fate1 ,if he pickle himself with a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,the ,salamander ,blacksmith that lives by the fire1 ,while his ,bellowes are puffing a blustring gale1 ,will shake off his full ,kan1 and sweare each true ,vulcan1 ,will ,hazzard his witts for a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 #cbb ,the woer that feareth his suit to begin1 ,and blushes1 and simpers1 and often looks pale1 ,thogh he miss in his speech and his heart were at his breech1 ,if he liquors his tongue3 with a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,the ,widdow1 that buried her husband of late1 ,will soon have forgotten to weep and to waile2 ,and think every day twaine1 till she marry againe1 ,if she read the contents of a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,the ,plowman and ,carter that toyles all the day1 ,and tires himself quite at the ,plough-taile1 ,will speak no lesse things1 than of ,queens and ,kings1 ,if he do but make bold with a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,and indeed it will make a man suddenly wise1 ,ere while was scarce able to tell a right tale1 ,it will open his ,jaw1 he will tell you the ,law1 ,and straight be a ,bencher with a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,i doe further alledge1 it is fortitudes edge1 ,for a very ,coward that shrinks like a ,snaile1 ,will sweare and will swagger1 and out goes his ,dagger1 ,if he be but well arm'd with a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,the naked man taketh no care for a coat1 ,nor on the cold weather will once turne his taile1 ,all the way as he goes1 cut the wind with his nose1 ,if he be but well lin'd with a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,the hungrie man seldome can mind his meat1 7,though his ,stomach could brook a ,ten ,penny ,nail17 ,he quite forgets hunger1 thinks of it no longer1 ,if his guts be but sows'd with a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,the ,reaper1 the ,mower1 the ,thresher1 the ,sower1 ,the one with his ,sithe1 and the other with his flaille1 ,pull 'em out by the pole1 on the perill of my sole1 ,they will hold up their caps at a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 #cbc ,the ,beggar1 whose portion is alwayes his ,prayer1 ,not having a tatter1 to hang at his taille1 ,is as rich in his rags1 as a ,churle with his bags1 ,if he be but entic'd with a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,it puts his povertie out of his mind1 ,forgetting his browne bread1 his wallet1 his maile1 ,he walks in the house like a six footed ,lowse1 ,if he be but well drench'd with a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,the ,souldier1 the ,saylor1 the true man1 the ,taylor1 ,the ,lawyer that sels words by weight and by tale1 ,take them all as they are1 for the ,war or the ,bar1 ,they all will approve of a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,the ,church and ,religion to love it hath cause1 7,or else our ,fore-fathers1 their wisdomes did faile17 ,for at every mile1 close at the ,church stile1 ,an house is ordain'd for a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,and ,physick will flavour ,ale 7as it is bound7 ,and stand against ,beere both tooth and naile1 ,they send up and downe1 all over the towne1 ,to get for their ,patients a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,your ,ale-berries1 ,cawdles1 and ,possets each one1 ,and sullabubs made at the milking pale1 ,although they be many1 ,beere comes not in any1 ,but all are compos'd with a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,and in very deed1 the ,hop's but a weed1 ,brought o're 'gainst law1 and here set to sale2 ,he that first brought the ,hop1 had reward with a rope1 ,and found that his ,beere was bitter than ale4 ,the antient tales that my ,grannam hath told1 ,of the mirth she had in ,parlour and ,hall1 ,how in ,christmas time1 they would dance1 sing1 and rime1 ,as if they were mad1 with a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 #cbd ,beere is a stranger1 a ,dutch ,upstart come1 ,whose credit with us1 sometimes is but small2 ,but in the records of the ,empire of ,rome1 ,the old ,catholic drink is a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,to the praise of ,gambinius1 the old ,british ,king1 ,who devised for his nation 7by the ,welshmen's tale71 ,seventeene hundred years before ,christ did spring1 ,the happie invention of a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,but he was a ,pagan1 and ,ale then was rife1 ,but after ,christ came1 and bade us1 ,all haile1 ,saint ,tavie was neffer trink peere in her life1 ,put awle ,callywhiblin1 and excellent ,ale4 ,all religions and nations1 their humours and fashions ,rich or poore1 knave or whoore1 dwarfish or tall ,sheep or shrew1 ,ile avow1 well ,i know will all bow1 ,if they be but wel steep'd1 with a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,o ,ale1 ab alendo1 thou liquor of life1 ,i wish that my mouth were as big as a ,whale1 ,but then 'twere to little1 to reach thy least title1 ,that belongs to the ,praise of a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,thus many a vertue to you ,i have showed1 ,and not any vice in all this long tale1 ,but after the ,pot1 there commeth a shot1 ,and that is the ,blot of a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,well1 said my friend1 the blot ,i will beare1 ,you have done very well1 it is time to strike saile1 ,we'll have six ,pots more1 though we dye on the score1 ,to make all this good of a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,we may be pardoned for omitting 8the valiant battell fought between the ,norfolk ,cock and the ,wisbich ,cock40 ,returning again to the ,roxburghe ,collection4 ,a ,health to all ,good ,fellowes is a very quaint old drinking song1 having beneath its title a wood-cut no less quaint than the letterpress4 ,it was printed about the commencement of the seventeenth century1 for ,henry ,gossen4 ,the author is unknown2 possibly he was ,martin ,parker or ,lawrence ,price4 #cbe ,no copy beyond that in the ,roxburghe ,collection is known to be in existence4 ,the tune is a good one4 ,a ,,health ,,to ,,all ,,good-,,fellowes3 or1 ,the good ,companions ,arithmeticke4 ,to the tune of ,to drive cold ,winter away4 ,illustration ,be merry my hearts1 and call for your quarts1 and let no liquor go lacking1 ,we have gold in store1 we purpose to roar until we set care a packing4 ,then ,hostis make haste1 and let no time waste1 let every man have his due1 ,to save shooes and trouble1 bring in the pots double for he that made one1 made two4#fc 99 99 99 99 99 ,then while we are here1 wee'le drinke ,ale and ,beer1 and freely our money wee'le spend1 ,let no man take care for paying his share1 if need be ,ile pay for my friend1 ,then ,hostesse make haste1 and let no time waste2 you're welcome all kind ,gentlemen2 #cbf ,never feare to carowse1 while there is beere in the house1 for he that made nine made ten4 99 99 99 99 99 ,now ,i thinke it is fit1 and most requisit1 to drinke a health to our wives1 ,the which being done1 wee'le pay and be gone1 strong drinke all our wits now deprives3 ,then ,hostesse lets know1 the summe that we owe1 twelve pence there is for certaine1 ,then fill t'other pot1 and here's money for't1 for he that made twelve made thirteen40 ,the poet was probably at a loss for a word to rhyme with fourteen1 or the ballad would have been longer4 #fc ,the 8he that made0 is probably the brewer4 ,the numbers increase by ones in the last line of each verse1 the last verse reaching thirteen4 ,another song of much the same character is ,monday's ,work1 the work being no work at all1 but a day spent at the alehouse4 ,the only known copy of this ballad is in the ,roxburghe ,collection4 ,the author is unknown4 ,,mondays ,,work or ,the ,two honest neighbours both birds of a feather ,who are at the ,alehouse both merry together4 ,to the tune of ,i owe my ,hostesse ,money4 ,illustration #cbg ,good morow neighbour ,gamble ,come let you and ,i goe ramble1 ,last night ,i was shot1 ,through the braines with a pot and now my stomach doth wamble2 ,your ,possets and your ,caudles1 ,are fit for babies in ,cradles2 ,a piece of salt ,hogge1 ,and a haire of the old ,dogge is good to cure our drunken ,noddles4 ,come hither mine host1 come hither1 ,here's two birds of a feather1 ,come hither my host ,with a pot and a tost1 and let us be merry together4 ,i rose in the morning early1 ,to take this juice of barly1 ,but if my wife ,jone1 ,knew where ,i were gone1 shee'd call me to a ,parley4 ,my bones ,i do not fauour1 ,but honestly doe labour3 ,but when ,i am out ,i must make a mad bout come here's halfe a pot to thee neighbour4 ,come hither1 c4 ,gramarcy1 neighbour ,jinkin1 ,i see thou louest no shrinking1 ,and ,i for my part ,from thee will not start1 come fill us a little more drinke in4 ,i'th weeke we aske but one day1 ,and that's next after ,sunday ,our custome wee'le hold ,although our ,wiues scold the ,maultman comes a ,monday4 ,come hither1 c4 ,come let us haue our ,liquor about us ,mine host does not misdoubt us1 #cbh ,yet if we should call1 ,and pay none at all1 you were better be without us3 ,but we are no such fellowes1 ,though some in clothes excell us ,and yet haue no coyne ,for ,liquor to joyne yet we haue both whites and yellowes4 ,come hither1 c4 99 99 99 99 99 ,there is a second part to this song1 which ends with the words3-- ,now lest our wiues should find us ',tis fit we should look behind us ,let's see what is done ,then pay and begone1 as honesty hath assigned us4 ',tis strong ale ,i conceiue it ',tis good in time to leaue it ,or else it will make ,our foreheads to ake1 'tis vanity to outbraue it4 ,come hither1 c4 ,coming now to works of a later date1 the following comicality seems worthy of reproduction4 ,it is hardly necessary to point out that the verses are a smart hit upon female ale-bibbers4 ,they are attributed to ,samuel ,bishop1 ,m4,a41 rector of ,st4 ,stephen's1 ,walbrook 7#aghc74 8,a worthy man and generally beloved10 says ,dr4 ,hughson1 ,,ll4,d41 in his ,london4 ,,quod ,,petis ,,hic ,,est4 ,no plate had ,john and ,joan to hoard1 ,plain folks in humble plight2 ,one only tankard crown'd the board1 ,and that was filled each night4 ,along whose inner bottom sketched ,in pride of chubby grace1 ,some rude engravers hand had etch'd ,a babys angels face1 ,john swallowed first a moderate sup2 ,but ,joan was not like ,john2 #cbi ,for when her lips once touched the cup1 ,she swill'd till all was gone4 ,john often urged her to drink fair1 ,but she ne'er changed a jot2 ,she loved to see that angel there1 ,and therefore drain'd the pot4 ,when ,john found all remonstrance vain1 ,another card he play'd2 ,and where the angel stood so plain1 ,he got a devil pourtrayed4 ,john saw the horns1 ,joan saw the tail1 ,yet ,joan as stoutly quaffed2 ,and ever when she seized her ale ,she cleared it at a draught4 ,john star'd with wonder petrify'd1 ,his hairs rose on his pate2 8,and ,why dose guzzle now80 he cryd1 8,at this enormous rate80 8,oh1 ,john10 says she1 8am ,i to blame1 ,i can't in conscience stop2 ,for sure 'twould be a burning shame ,to leave the devil a drop40 ,a collection of ale ballads and songs would hardly be complete without at least one on the 8guid yill of ,scotland40 ,burns' works are so well known that we fall back upon a capital ,scotch song written at the close of the last century1 and bearing the title ,a ,coggie ,o' ,yill4 ,the author was ,andrew ,sheriffs of ,shirrefs1 at one time ,editor of the ,aberdeen ,chronicle4 ,he also wrote a ,scotch pastoral entitled ,jamie and ,bess1 which was published in #aghg1 and a second time in #agij4 ,burns1 in his ,third ,northern ,tour1 speaks of ,sheriffs1 who was a bookbinder by trade1 as 8a little decrepit body with some abilities40 ,the words of the song were set to music by a celebrated violin player1 named ,robert ,macintosh4 ,a ,,coggie ,o' ,,yill4 ,a ,coggie o' ,yill1 ,and a pickle aitmeal1 ,and a dainty wee drappie o' whiskey1 ,was our forefathers dose1 ,for to sweel down their brose ,and keep them aye cheery and friskey-- #ccj ,then hey for the wiskey1 and hey for the meal1 ,and hey for the ,cogie1 and hey for the yill1 ,gin ye steer a' thegither they'll do unco weel1 ,to keep a chiel cherry and brisk aye4 ,when ,i see our ,scots lads1 ,wi' their kilts and cockauds1 ,that sae often ha'e loundered our foes1 man3 ,i think to mysel'1 ,on the meal and the yill1 ,and the fruits o' our ,scottish ,kail brose1 man4 ,then hey1 c41 c4 99 99 99 99 99 ,then our brave ,highland blades1 ,wi' their claymore and plaids1 ,in the field drive like sheep a' our foes1 man3 ,their courage and pow'r-- ,spring from this to be sure1 ,they're the noble effects o' the brose1 man4 ,then hey1 c41 c4 ,but your spyndle-shank'd sparks ,wha sae ill fill their sarks1 ,your pale-visaged milksops and beaux1 man3 ,i think when ,i see them1 ',twere kindness to gie them-- ,a cogie o' yill or o' brose1 man4 ,then hey1 c41 c4 ,what ,john ,bull despises1 ,our better sense prizes1 ,he denies eatin' blanter ava1 man2 ,but by eatin o' blanter1 ,his mare's grown1 ,i'll warrant her1 ,the manliest brute o' the twa1 man4 ,then hey1 c41 c4 ,it would not be difficult to fill a volume of considerable size with songs and ballads having ale or beer for their subject1 but the foregoing1 together with many others to be found in these pages1 are among the best of their kind1 and will doubtless give a fair idea of the poetry of malt liquor4 #cca ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xii4 8,blessing of your heart1 you brew good ,ale40 ,two ,gentlemen of ,verona4 ,act iii41 ,sc4 #a4 8,the bigger the brewing the better the browst40 ,old ,yorkshire ,proverb4 ,,brewing ,,in ,,the ,,present ,,day4 -- ,,anecdotal ,,and ,,biographical ,,account ,,of ,,some ,,representative ,,london1 ,,dublin1 ,,burton1 ,,and ,,country ,,brewing ,,firms4 -- ,,edinburgh ,,ales4 ,passing on to modern times and bidding adieu to the old brewers1 brewsters1 ale-wives1 and tapsters1 it behoves us to devote ourselves to giving some account of the brewing of the present day1 thereby bringing our history up to date4 ,with this intent1 we cannot do better than commence with a few figures1 startling enough1 no doubt1 to others than the cognoscenti1 as to the magnitude of what are commonly called the ,liquor ,trades4 ,from a report drawn up by ,professor ,leoni ,levi in #ahgh1 at the request of the late ,mr4 ,m4 ,t4 ,bass1 ,m4,p41 and from recent ,parliamentary returns1 it appears that the total amount of capital invested in the liquor trades of the ,united ,kingdom amounts to about one hundred and seventeen million pounds sterling4 ,this sum is equal to more than half the total value of our exports1 and is more than double the annual receipts of all the railways4 ,about one-third of the whole ,national ,revenue is drawn from this source4 ,making due allowance for families1 the persons employed directly in #ccb the various trades connected with the production and distribution of alcoholic drinks are not fewer in number than one and a half million4 ,from these startling facts1 it follows that teetotallers1 before they can accomplish the total abolition of spirituous liquors1 must arrange for either emigrating or giving employment to over a million persons1 and must be prepared to pay one-third more taxes than they do at present4 ,it may be well1 before proceeding further1 to give a short and very simple account of brewing as it is now carried on in nearly every brewhouse in the country1 for without a few general ideas on the subject many of our readers would no doubt be a little puzzled by the references to mashing tuns1 vats1 union rooms and such like1 which occur in this chapter4 ,in brewing there are three principal operations3 #a4--,mixing the malt with hot water2 #b4--;,adding hops to the infusion obtained and boiling them together2 and #c4--;,fermenting the liquid by putting yeast in it4 ,the malt when brought to the brewery is first screened to remove dirt1 dust and foreign particles2 nails and other odds and ends of metal being caught on a bar magnet over which the malt passes4 ,it is then crushed between rollers and1 by an ingenious mechanical contrivance1 is carried to large bins or hoppers situated above the mash tuns1 the huge tubs in which the malt and hot 7not boiling7 water are mixed4 ,this process is called mashing1 and was formerly done by merely stirring water and malt together with a long oar or pole1 a practice of course still followed by home brewers4 ,see1 the welcome ,brewhouse rise1 ,see1 the priest his duty plies6 ,and1 with apron duly bound1 ,stirs the liqour round and round4 ,o'er the bubbling cauldron play ,mirth and merriment so gay2 ,melancholy hides her head1 ,the frowns of ,envy1 all are fled2 ,youthful ,wit and ,attic ,salt ,infuse their savour in the ,malt4 ,mashing is now carried on in various ways1 machinery entirely taking the place of manual labour4 ,sometimes the water--always spoken of as 8liquor0 in a brewery--rises in the tun1 and the malt comes in from #ccc above1 but in many breweries the malt and water run in together1 a machine mixing them before they enter4 ,when the malt-tea has stood long enough--huge revolving rakes mixing the mash meanwhile--the amber infusion 7technically 8wort07 is drawn off and more water added1 until all the goodness has been extracted from the malt1 the empty husks or 8grains0 only being left4 ,with grains pigs and cows are often fed1 and not brewers' horses1 as is popularly imagined4 8,mashing0 over1 the next process is to give the malt-tea its bitter flavour1 and this is done by boiling it in a huge copper with a quantity of hops4 ,when sufficiently boiled1 the hops and wort are run off from the copper into huge square vessels 7technically 8hop-backs07 with perforated bottoms1 which act as strainers or colanders1 the liquid passing through the holes1 leaving the hops behind1 which are subsequently pressed to get all the liquid out of them4 ,the brewer has now a quantity of unfermented hot beer1 which he must first cool by passing it among pipes containing icy cold water4 ,refrigerators and ice-making machines are1 it need hardly be said1 of the greatest assistance to the modern brewer1 who without them could only brew in the cold months4 ,some firms have spent as much as #h1jjj on their ice-making machines4 ,the beer1 which at present is a teetotal drink devoid of alcohol1 having been cooled1 is turned into large tubs or square boxes1 and yeast is added to it4 ,fermentation now sets in1 and by various ingenious contrivances the froth as it rises to the top is skimmed off or carried away4 ,during this process the beer is kept at a low temperature by means of cold water-pipes which are taken through the fermenting tuns4 ,when the fermentation has almost ceased1 the beer is put into smaller vessels1#fd where a little fermentation still goes on1 and the froth either works over the side or is skimmed off or1 as in the 8union0 system at ,burton1 works up through pipes4 ,fermentation being now practically at an end1 the beer goes into huge vats1 from which it is drawn into casks as required4 ,this last operation is termed 8racking40 ,even then the bung-holes are left open for a day or two to allow a little froth to work out4 #fd ,there are several varieties of these vessels3 ,pontoons1 unions1 c41 the most approved being shallow trays4 ,on these the yeast rises very quickly4 ,the process is termed 8cleansing40 ,the foregoing process seems1 and is1 of a simple character1 but to #ccd obtain the very best results great skill is necessary4 ,the colour of the malt1 the temperature of the water in the mash tun1 the temperature during fermentation1 the proper proportion of the materials1 and many other matters are of the greatest importance4 ,some brewers1 and notably ,messrs4 ,guinness ,sons1 keep their beer in vats for a considerable length of time before racking it into the casks1 but the practice is gradually dying out1 and huge vats such as that built some years ago by ,messrs4 ,meux ,co4 are now but little used4 ,the racking room of a large brewery is a wonderful sight4 ,all round the sides are huge vats--twenty or thirty1 perhaps--in each of which fifteen to twenty people could dine comfortably4 ,these giant tubs tower above thousands of barrels which line the floor1 and which look like pigmies by comparison4 ,one of the most interesting portions of a modern brewery is the cooperage4 ,coopers are highly-skilled workmen1 and it is more or less of a marvel to see how without any measurement they plane down planks into staves for casks1 and fit them together so closely that the #cce cask is perfectly sound and incapable of leaking4 ,the length of the staves is measured1 for the rest the ,cooper trusts to his eye4 ,coopering is a most ancient trade1 and appears from the illustration by ,jost ,ammon1 in ,schopper's rare book1 1 to be carried on in much the same way now as it was in ,germany in the year #aefh4 ,illustration3 ,der ,bender4 ,a ,sixteenth-century ,cooperage4 ,before giving any account of the firm known as ,allsopp ,sons1#fe it is only fitting to devote a few lines to the ,pale ,ale ,metropolis4 #fe ,the following ,sketches of certain of our great brewing firms are in alphabetical order4 ,the task of placing the firms according to their importance or size was of a character too invidious to be attempted4 ,the history of ,burton has been so exhaustively treated by ,mr4 ,molyneux that it is not an easy matter to add anything fresh on the subject4 ,in the monastic establishments which were inaugurated at a very early date in the neighbourhood of the town1 enormous quantities of ale were brewed4 ,there is no record1 however1 of any public breweries at that date 7#abie71 though there is little doubt that the trade of malting was largely carried on4 ,by the sixteenth century a small local trade in brewing had been established4 ,in a series of letters written by ,walsingham1 in #aehd1 to ,sir ,ralph ,sadler1 governor of ,tutbury ,castle1 to the inquiry1 8,what place neere ,tutbury beere may be provided for her ,majestie's use80 is the answer that 8beere0 may be had 8at ,burton three myles off40 ,information of the progress of the ,babbington conspiracy is said to have been conveyed to ,mary ,queen of ,scots1 while in ,tutbury ,castle1 by a ,burton brewer2 and a load of beer on its way from ,burton to ,fotheringay was intercepted1 and among the casks were found correspondence throwing fatal light on the plot4 ,in #afcj the fame of the ,burton ale had spread to ,london1 and that excellent liquor was sold at 8,the ,peacock0 in ,gray's ,inn ,lane4 ,in the ,spectator of ,may #bjth1 #agab1 is recorded how the writer and ,sir ,roger de ,coverley visit ,vauxhall1 where1 after inspecting the garden1 they concluded their walk 8with a glass of ,burton ale and a slice of hung beef40 ,the history of ,burton as a great brewing centre cannot be traced back much beyond #agjh1 at least so far as export is concerned4 ,when1 as the result of an ,act passed in #afih1 water communication was opened up between ,burton and the ,baltic ports1 the brewers were not slow to take advantage of their opportunities1 and in #agdh a considerable export trade had been established1 the ,russians being by far the best customers4 #ccf ,both ,peter the ,great and the ,empress ,catherine were extremely fond of ,burton ale4 ,the ,empress1 indeed1 is said to have loved it not wisely but too well4 ,in #agia there were nine brewers in the town1 their names being ,bass1 ,clay1 ,evans1 ,leeson1 ,musgrave1 ,sherratt1 ,wilson 7two7 and ,worthington4 ,previous to the year #ahbb ,burton ale was better known on the ,continent than in ,england1 but about that time the brewers turned their attention to increasing their home trade1 and met with marked success4 ,in #ahea the breweries had increased to sixteen1 giving employment to #hfg men and #fa boys4 ,the special recommendation of the spring water at ,burton consists in the fact that whatever saccharine may be put into it1 appears to remain there for any length of time without being chemically injured by those mineral combinations which are generally present in spring water4 ,burton of the present day is a city of breweries4 ,tall chimneys tower on all sides1 the smell of new beer pervades the air1 great red brick buildings block the way in every direction2 engines glide noiselessly about dragging trucks loaded with casks2 burly brewers' men meet you at every corner2 it is1 in fact1 the very home of ,john ,barleycorn4 ,the ,breweries of ,burton in this present year of grace are thirty in number1 and give employment to about eight thousand men and boys4 ,in a view of ,burton-on-,trent1 engraved in #agbj1 is a small brewery1 which was then the property of one ,benjamin ,wilson1 the founder of the great firm of ,s4 ,allsopp and ,sons4 ,though not the creator of the ,burton ,beer trade1 he was the first to carry on an extensive business as a common brewer1 and was1 it is believed1 the originator of the extensive export trade which ,burton carried on during the eighteenth century4 ,letters of his are still extant1 from which it may be gathered that he had established a flourishing trade in ,burton ales so early as #agdh4 ,his account books show that in #aggj the business done with ,russia was an extensive one1 and partly carried on by barter4 ,in #aggd1 in a letter to ,mr4 ,charles ,best1 ,mr4 ,wilson writes3 8,we have already two large ,brewhouses ,employ'd1 and are about to use a third1 the whole of which will take all the money ,i can raise with convenience to myself1 beyond which ,i do not choose to go40 ,in a letter dated ,oct4 #bc1 #agge1 from ,messrs4 ,b4 ,wilson ,co4 to ,messrs4 ,j4 ,d4 ,newman ,co41 ,st4 ,petersburg1 occur the following interesting passages3--8,to people who have the ,credit of their own ,manufacture and y inseparable ,interest of their ,friends at ,heart1 we cannot but feel an accumulated ,satisfaction at every additional instance of our ,ale proving fine and distinguishing itself1 wch1 in ,justice to its ,character1 we have ye #ccg happiness to say our ,friends have universally confirmed4 ,to ye several ,queries of yr ,letter1 we beg leave to acquaint you that tho' many ,merchants from ,st4 ,petersburg are supplied with ,burton ,ale from our ,house1 yet there are many we are not intimately connected with1 their orders being transmitted through ye ,houses of ,hull and ,london 4 4 4 4 4 ,the ,price of ,ale last year at ,burton from ye extravagant ,price of ,grain sold for #ag;d per ,gallon40 ,in the order book for #aggj are many entries which appear curious enough to modern readers4 ,some of the customers order their casks to be cased1 i4e41 enclosed in a larger cask--a process necessary to prevent the 8,gainsboro' ,captains10 as the bargees were called1 from 8sucking the monkey40 ,one customer writes3 8,send me #bd-;gallon casks strong ale and let ye casks be iron-hooped at the head40 ,another wants 8two #ad-;gallon casks of strong ale by sea0 to ,london1 and another 8a hogshead by land0 also to ,london1 the carriage of which must have been very extensive4 ,there may possibly be persons still living who recollect an old fellow named ,dyche1 who was full of information regarding the early history of the ,burton ,ale trade4 ,he remembered ,john ,wilson well1 and described him as a kind1 hearty1 portly1 well-favoured old gentleman1 somewhat peppery withal1 but never angry without a cause4 ,dyche's father worked for ,mr4 ,wilson during forty years as a sawyer1 his business being to cut up into staves for the coopers1 the timber brought from the ,baltic in exchange for ale4 ,at fourteen years of age the younger ,dyche was apprenticed to the cooper at the brewery4 ,the commonest ale was then1 according to ,dyche1 as strong as the strongest ale now brewed4 ,dyche used to tell how old ,benjamin ,wilson had two sons1 and a daughter renowned far and wide for her beauty4 ,this ,miss ,wilson became the wife of ,mr4 ,james ,allsopp1 and her son ,samuel was father of the ,mr4 ,henry ,allsopp1 now ,lord ,hindlip of ,hindlip1 who for many years was head of the firm4 ,benjamin ,wilson the younger1 having no children1 took his nephew ,samuel into the business1 much against the wish of ,mr4 ,james ,allsopp1 who had intended his son for the church4 ,john ,walker ,wilson1 another son of old ,benjamin1 also joined the firm1 but soon left it and started a brewery 7now ,worthington's7 on his own account4 ,on the death of ,benjamin ,wilson the younger1 who never married1 the business came altogether into the hands of his nephew1 ,mr4 ,samuel ,allsopp1 and was carried on under the style of 8,wilson ,allsopp0 until #ahbb1 when the name was changed to 8,samuel ,allsopp ,son40 #cch ,the ,allsopps come of an ancient family4 ,one ,hugh de ,allsopp 7or ,elleshope7 went with ,richard ,i4 to the ,holy ,land1 and was knighted for good service during the siege of ,acre4 ,he married a niece of ,sir ,ralph de ,farington1 who presented ,sir ,hugh with certain lands in ,derbyshire1 which1 for seventeen generations1 the ,allsopps-of-the-,dale enjoyed as their patrimony4 ,anthony ,allsopp1 who married a daughter of ,sir ,john ,gell of ,hopton1 sold the family seat in #afia to ,sir ,philip ,gell1 his brother-in-law4 ,mr4 ,james ,allsopp1 whom we have mentioned as being the first of the name who joined the firm1 was a grandson of ,anthony4 ,he married a member of the old ,staffordshire family of ,fowlers4 ,several ancient deeds1 some of the early part of the thirteenth century1 in the possession of ,lord ,hindlip1 contain conveyances of land to and from various members of the ,alsop family1 the chief names mentioned being ,henry de ,alsop1 ,ranulf de ,alsop1 and ,thomas de ,alsop4 ,in ,pepys' ,diary mention is made of a ,mr4 ,alsop1 brewer to ,charles ,,ii4 ,whether any connection existed between him and the ,allsopp family is not known4 ,returning now to the history of the firm--in #ahbb high import duties were imposed by the ,russian ,government upon ,english ales1 and this fact led for a time to the almost total suspension of the trade which ,messrs4 ,allsopp ,son had for so long carried on with ,russia4 ,the results were not1 however1 altogether disastrous1 for the ,burton firm now saw the necessity of pushing their home trade1 and the ales which had hitherto been better known in ,st4 ,petersburg than in ,london came into considerable demand in the southern portions of this country4 ,an eye-witness of a banquet given by ,peter the ,great has left the following description3--8,as soon as you sit down you are expected to drink a cup of brandy1 after which they ply you with great glasses of adulterated ,tokay and other vitiated wines1 and between whiles with a bumper of the strongest ,english beer40 ,burton ales then were of a very different character to the excellent bitter of to-day2 ,dyche spoke as to their strength1 and they were so rich and luscious that if a little was spilled on a table the glass would stick to it4 ,at this time a brewer named ,hodgson had the whole of the ,indian export trade1 but ,messrs4 ,allsopp ,son1 at the suggestion of a ,mr4 ,majoribanks1 brewed and exported ale similar to ,hodgson's4 ,their venture met with marked success1 and for many years the firm held the #cci chief place among the exporters of ,indian ,pale ,ale4 ,the first ,burton specimen of that beverage1 many thousand hogsheads of which are now brewed annually1 was compounded by ,job ,goodhead1 ,mr4 ,allsopp's veteran maltster1 in a tea-pot4 ,space forbids a long account of ,mr4 ,s4 ,allsopp's life4 ,to his endeavours was chiefly due the bringing of the ,derby and ,birmingham railway system close to ,burton4 ,in both public and private life ,mr4 ,allsopp was charitable to a fault1 and greatly beloved4 ,he died in #ahch1 and was succeeded by his two sons1 ,charles ,james and ,henry4 ,the latter1 so long the head of the firm1 is too well known to need mention here4 ,he it was who took a leading part in refuting certain mischievous charges1 which were to the effect that the ,burton brewers used noxious materials in the manufacture of their bitter beer4 ,he represented ,worcestershire from #ahgd to #ahhj1 and in #ahhj was created a ,baronet4 ,in the early part of #ahhf he had the honour of being raised to the peerage under the title of ,lord ,hindlip of ,hindlip and ,alsop-en-le-,dale1 having retired from the firm for some years in favour of his three sons1 the ,hon4 ,charles1 ,george and ,percy ,allsopp4 ,a word now as to the breweries1 which rank among the best and most perfect of their kind4 ,they are three in number1 and are connected together1 and with the makings1 cooperages1 c41 by about ten miles of railway4 ,the ,new ,brewery is an immense structure1 no single building being in existence which has a greater brewing capacity4 ,the union room is of very fine proportions1 being #cge feet in length and #aje in breadth4 ,it contains #a1dbd unions1 which can cleanse #bcj1fhh gallons at one time4 ,the union rooms1 taken altogether1 contain about #d1ejj unions1 each with a capacity of #fie gallons4 ,next to the ,new ,brewery comes the ,old ,brewery1 and lastly the ,model ,brewery1 which seems a mere toy compared with the others4 ,it is used chiefly for experiments1 and for occasional brews of stout and porter4 ,the firm also possesses extensive maltings1 and1 it is almost needless to say1 large cooperages1 stables1 c4 ,a feature in the conduct of ,messrs4 ,allsopp ,sons' business is the consideration shown to the employs1 who1 without counting clerks and the office staff1 number #a1fjj4 ,for their benefit the firm maintains a cricket ground1 bowling green1 a sick and funeral club1 and a library managed by a scripture reader1 who also visits the men and their families4 ,here and there about the breweries and maltings may be seen tottering old men1 who seem out of place among so much life and #cdj bustle4 ,these are the pensioners1 who work as much or as little as they like4 ,we believe that ,messrs4 ,allsopp and ,sons rank third among the brewing firms of the ,united ,kingdom1 and the extent of their business may be inferred from the simple fact that they have an annual expenditure of #a1djj to #a1ejj in postage stamps alone4 ,in the busy periods of the year upwards of #bj1jjj casks pass weekly through their racking rooms4 ,it would be presumption to attempt to criticise the malt liquor produced by this firm or1 indeed1 that of any of our leading brewers4 ,early in the eighteenth century1 as early indeed as the year #agaj1 if the ,commercial ,list is correct1 a building called the ,anchor ,brewery existed on the ,surrey side of the ,thames1 in ,southwark1 owned by a ,mr4 ,halsey1 whose beer is mentioned in ,state papers of ,queen ,anne's reign as being exported to ,flanders for the use of the army4 ,this gentleman having amassed a large fortune1 and married his daughter to ,lord ,cobham1 severed his connection with trade1 and sold the business to ,mr4 ,thrale1 the member for the ,borough of ,southwark1 and ,sheriff for the ,county of ,surrey4 ,mr4 ,thrale died in #agha1 and was succeeded by his son1 whose wife ,hester was the intimate friend of the great ,dr4 ,johnson4 ,even at that time a great business was done by the firm1 about #cj1jjj barrels of beer being produced annually4 ,according to the ,annual ,register for #agei1 ,thrale's was the fourth largest ,london brewery1 ,calvert's1 ,whitbread's and ,truman's coming before it4 ,it is said that ,thrale lost #acj1jjj by unfortunate speculations1 but so profitable was the brewery that at the end of nine years he had saved a sum which enabled him to pay all the debts contracted by reason of his losses4 ,dr4 ,johnson's friendship with the ,thrales commenced in #agfe1 and continued until the brewer's death4 ,the ,doctor lived sometimes in a house near the brewery1 and sometimes in the villa at ,streatham4 ,up to #ahcb1 when the brewery was destroyed by fire1 a room near the entrance gate used to be shown1 which was said to have been the ,doctor's study4 ,in ,boswell's ,life of ,johnson are numerous letters and reports of conversations relating more or less to the ,brewery4 ,one of the last letters written by the ,doctor was to ,sir ,joshua ,reynolds1 and contained proposals for the establishment of a convivial club1 as ,the ,club was getting overweighted with ,bishops4 ,the ,doctor scoffed at the idea that persons1 however learned1 could meet habitually merely for the purpose of discussing philosophy or the sciences without material refreshment1 and he gravely warned ,mrs4 ,thrale that if she forbade #cda card-tables in her drawing room1 she must at least give her guests plenty of sweatmeats1 else nobody would come to see her4 ,but the ,doctor1 and not the bonbons or card-tables1 must have been the loadstone which filled ,mrs4 ,thrale's reception rooms4 ,at ,thrale's death ,dr4 ,johnson1 ,mrs4 ,thrale1 and three gentlemen1 named ,cator1 ,smith and ,crutchley1 found themselves appointed ,executors1 and determined to carry on the business2 but ,dr4 ,johnson1 who by nature could not help taking the lead in whatever he was concerned1 was not born to be a brewer1 and the undertaking was not a success4 ,mrs4 ,thrale1 in ,anecdotes of ,dr4 ,johnson1 has left a very lively account of these amateur brewers' proceedings4 ,in ,june1 #agha1 when the ,executors had made the resolve to sell the business1 she wrote3 8,dear ,dr4 ,johnson was somewhat unwilling--but not much at last--to give up a trade by which in some years #ae1jjj or #af1jjj had undoubtedly been got1 but by which in some years its possessor had suffered agonies of terror and tottered twice upon the verge of bankruptcy 4 4 4 adieu to brewing and borough wintering2 adieu to trade and tradesmen's frigid approbation4 ,may virtue and wisdom sanctify our contract1 and make buyer and seller happy in the bargain60 ,when the brewery was offered for sale1 ,dr4 ,johnson appeared bustling about with his ink-horn and pen in his buttonhole1 like any excise man4 ,on being asked what he really considered to be the value of the property1 he spoke the celebrated words3 8,we are not here to sell a parcel of boilers and vats1 but the potentiality of growing rich beyond the dream of avarice40 ,the brewery was finally sold by private contract for #ace1jjj to ,messrs4 ,robert ,barclay and ,john ,perkins1 who were associated in the transaction with ,mr4 ,david ,barclay1 junr41 and ,mr4 ,sylvanus ,bevan1 of the banking firm of ,barclay1 ,bevan ,co4 ,mr4 ,robert ,barclay was succeeded by his son ,charles1 who represented ,southwark in ,parliament1 and his sons and grandsons4 ,in #ahbg1 the last year of the old ,beer-tax1 ,barclays' headed the list of ,london firms1 having brewed #cda1cca barrels of beer4 ,the present brewery and its belongings adjoin ,bankside1 extend from the land arches of ,southwark ,bridge nearly half the distance to ,london ,bridge1 and cover about twelve acres4 ,within the brewery is said to be the site of the old ,globe ,theatre4 ,in an account of the neighbourhood1 dated #agie1 it is stated that 8the passage which led to the ,globe ,tavern1 of which the playhouse formed a part1 was till within these few years known by the name of ,globe ,alley1 and upon its site now stands a large storehouse for porter40 #cdb ,in the ,globe ,theatre1 which was built by ,henslowe and his son-in-law ,alleyn1 the founder of ,dulwich ,college1 ,shakspere produced and acted in several of his plays4 ,it is curious that with ,barclay and ,perkins' brewery should be associated the names of our greatest poet and perhaps our most brilliant conversationalist--,dr4 ,johnson--who did so much to revive the popularity of his predecessor4 ,a rather amusing anecdote used to be told of ,madame ,malibran1 who1 like many singers1 knew the beneficial effects of stout on the voice1 and whose favourite evening's repast after the ,opera consisted of oysters and bottled stout4 ,once hearing the name of the ,honourable ,craven ,berkeley announced in company1 she tripped up to him1 and1 with great animation1 said1 8,ah1 ,mr4 ,barclay and ,perkins1 ,i do owe you so much60 ,this reminds us of another anecdote1 told of ,madame ,pasta4 ,when in ,england she was asked by a literary lady of high distinction whether she drank as much stout as usual4 8,no1 mia cara10 was the reply 8prendo half and half adessa40 ,messrs4 ,barclay1 ,perkins and ,co4's brewery ranks among the sights of ,london1 and is visited by thousands of foreigners during the year4 ,the present brewhouse is nearly as large as ,westminster ,hall1 and each of the three malt bins could1 if required1 contain an ordinary three-storied house4 ,the vats number a hundred and fifty1 with capacities varying from one hundred to three thousand five hundred barrels2 the largest of these weigh when full no less than #ejj tons4 ,the full capacity of the mash tuns is #fij quarters4 ,the water used in brewing is drawn from an artesian well #fbc feet deep1 and the firm give employment to over six hundred men4 ,among the collection of ,hearne's ,letters1 in the ,bodleian ,library1 is one from ,saml4 ,catherall1 dated 8,luscom1 near ,bath1 ,nov4 #b1 #agbi40 ,it contains a few semi-humorous verses on the death of two mutual friends1 named ,whiteside and ,craster1 and ends thus3-- 8,ev'en you alas6 with grief o'ercome1 shall lend ,some tears1 and lose ye stoick in ye ,friend3 ,so stern ,achilles wept--,but you1 and ,i ,observant of ,decorum1 will not cry ,like children 7for we all were born to ,die72 ,basse's ,immortal ,ale shall make us gay1 ,he ,holds out longest yt dilutes his clay4 8,your faithful ,friend1 8,,sam ,,catherall4 8,to ,mr4 ,thomas ,hearne 8,at ,edmund ,hall1 in ,oxford4 8,by the cross post40 #cdc ,though there are records extant of persons bearing the name of ,bass who did various notable things1 such as undertaking a pilgrimage to ,canterbury in #aejf 7not forgetting a certain ,mrs4 ,laura ,bassi1 who was promoted to the degree of ,doctor of ,philosophy at ,bologna1 in ,italy 8having first passed a strict examination and answered all points with surprising capacity and learning71 this is nevertheless the first mention of ,basse's ale4 ,who was this ,basse08 ,frankly1 we cannot say1 but from the date of the letter it is certain that he was not the founder of the present firm4 ,the year #ahgg was the centenary of that great commercial enterprise now known as ,bass1 ,ratcliff ,gretton1 ,limited4 ,it was when ,george the ,third was ,king1 and ,pitt1 the youngest ,prime ,minister this country has ever known1 was in power1 that ,mr4 ,william ,bass1 the proprietor of a considerable carrying business1 commenced to brew ale at ,burton4 ,his brewhouse was situated in the ,high ,street1 and the building on that site1 still in the hands of the firm1 is always spoken of as the 8,old ,brewery40 ,the land occupied was about equal in extent to a moderately large garden1 and the power in the brewery was probably altogether manual1 for ,watt had not at that time fully developed the greatest invention the world has ever known4 ,bass and ,co4's ,brewery and its belongings now cover forty-five acres of freehold and over a hundred of leasehold land1 on which are thirty-two steam engines of altogether #faj horse power6 ,mr4 ,william ,bass1 finding that his new undertaking was proving a success1 sold his carrying business to the well-known house of ,pickford ,co4 ,the brewery did not1 however1 begin to take any important place in the trade until the beginning of the present century1 some few years after ,mr4 ,michael ,thomas ,bass1 grandson of the founder1 had been taken into the business1 which then soon began to increase with marvellous rapidity1 owing1 there can be no doubt1 to the fact that ,mr4 ,michael ,bass's principal aim was to brew the very best beer that could possibly be brewed4 ,in #ahcd ,mr4 ,ratcliff was taken into partnership1 and a few years later ,mr4 ,gretton joined the firm4 ,in #ahec was built the middle brewery1 between ,guild ,street and ,station ,street4 ,in #ahfd a third brewhouse was opened in ,station ,street1 only thirty-six weeks after the foundations were commenced4 ,both the ,middle ,brewery and the ,new ,brewery have been greatly enlarged within the last few years1 and the ,old ,brewery has been entirely rebuilt4 ,in #ahhd ,mr4 ,m4 ,t4 ,bass died1 and was probably more deeply lamented than any other inhabitant of ,burton since that place became a town4 ,in #ahhj the #cdd business was turned into a private ,limited ,company1 of which the eldest son of ,mr4 ,m4 ,t4 ,bass is the chairman4#ff #ff ,created 7#ahhf7 ,baron ,burton of ,rangemore and of ,burton-on-,trent1 in the county of ,stafford4 ,before attempting to give any idea of the enormous business transacted by ,messrs4 ,bass ,co41 a few words respecting the man by whose strict integrity1 business qualifications1 and persistent and successful efforts to produce the best possible article1 and none other1 the name of ,bass has been rendered a familiar word throughout the whole civilised world4 ,he was born in #agii1 and entered the business immediately after leaving school4 ,the trade then done was so limited that he had for a time to act as a traveller2 but year by year the demand for ,bass's ,ale became greater and greater1 and for a considerable period before his death ,mr4 ,bass was at the head of the greatest pale ale brewery in the world4 ,he was a genial1 kindly man1 and had a genuine pride in the success of his great undertaking4 ,those who had the pleasure of being his guests will no doubt remember his translation of two lines from ,martial1 ,book vi4 ,epigram #fi3-- ,non ,miror quod potat aquam tua ,bassa1 ,catulle6 ,miror quod ,bassi filia potat aquam4 8,i am not the least surprised1 ,o ,catullus1 that your nymph ,bassa drinks water2 what ,i am surprised at is that ,bass's daughter drinks water40 ,the epigram has also been rendered into ,english verse3-- ,not strange1 my friend1 ,i'm thinking1 ,thy ,bassa water drinking1 ,most strange that ,bass's daughter ,should think of drinking water4 ,mr4 ,m4 ,t4 ,bass represented ,derby in ,parliament for thirty-five years1 being eight times elected in succession1 only resigning in #ahhc1 having lived to be the oldest member in the ,house4 ,he gave ,derby a ,free ,library1 a ,museum1 an ,art ,gallery1 a ,public ,bath1 and a ,recreation ,ground1 at a cost of #ej1jjj4 ,railway ,companies' servants have reason to be grateful to him1 for through his endeavours their hours of labour1 though still in some case left far too long1 have on many lines been considerably shortened4 ,for some years many of them worked sixteen1 eighteen1 and even twenty hours out of the twenty-four4 ,he also strenuously exerted himself to obtain the abolition of imprisonment for debt4 ,his benefactions to ,burton are too numerous to mention4 ,the chief of them were the gifts of ,st4 ,paul's and ,st4 ,margaret's #cde ,churches1 with a ,parsonage ,house1 ,schools1 and an endowment of #ejj a year1 and a ,workman's ,club and ,institute at a total cost of over #ajj1jjj4 ,mr4 ,bass was repeatedly offered a ,peerage1 and as often refused it4 ,we cannot better conclude this short and very inadequate description than by quoting the words used by ,sir ,william ,harcourt when opening ,st4 ,paul's ,institute at ,burton-on-,trent3 8,we are met here to-day to commemorate the munificent benefaction of ,mr4 ,bass4 ,he is a man advanced in years1 in honour1 and in wealth1 which is the fruit of a life of intelligent industry4 ,he was a ,liberal in his youth2 he is a ,liberal in his age4 ,years and wealth have not brought to him selfish timidity4 ,in his grey hairs he cherishes the generous sentiments which inspired his earlier days4 ,he has received freely1 and freely has he bestowed40 ,the liberality of the firm was not confined to ,mr4 ,michael ,bass4 ,the ,messrs4 ,gretton have erected and endowed a ,church in the suburbs of ,burton at a cost of nearly #bj1jjj1 and ,public ,baths and ,wash-houses1 costing nearly #aj1jjj1 have been presented to the town by ,messrs4 ,ratcliff4 ,the firm of ,bass ,co4 alone contribute to the ,national ,revenue upwards of #ghj per day1 and its breweries at ,burton-upon-,trent are the largest of their kind in the world1 the business premises extending1 as we have said1 over #ade acres of land4 ,locomotives have to a large extent superseded brewers' drays at ,burton1 and this firm has connection with the outer railway systems by twelve miles of rails on the premises1 and use as many as #fj1jjj railway trucks in the course of six months4 ,the casks required to carry on the business number #fjj1jjj1 of which #df1ija are butts1 and #aei1fjh are hogsheads4 ,some ingenious calculations have been made with regard to these casks4 ,piled one above another they would make #c1cjj pillars1 each reaching to the top of ,st4 ,paul's4 ,the great ,egyptian ,pyramid is #gfc ft4 square at the base2 the butts1 standing on end and placed bulge to bulge1 would furnish bases for five such pyramids1 and the other casks would be more than sufficient for the superstructure #dfj ft4 high4 ,though labour-saving machinery is used as much as possible1 ,bass ,co4 employ at ,burton alone #b1bej men and boys4 ,in #ahba only #hfg men and #fa boys were engaged in all the ,burton breweries4 ,in the course of a season the firm now sends out over #hjj1jjj barrels1 and manufacture raw material weighing #he1jjj tons4 ,in the year ending ,june #cjth1 #ahhc1 #bej1jjj quarters of malt were used and #ca1jjj cwt4 of hops4 ,the amount of business now done by the firm in one year cannot be less than #b1djj1jjj1 figures which will give some idea of the capital employed4 #cdf ,a detailed description of the three brewhouses would fill the whole of the space devoted to this chapter2 suffice it1 therefore1 to say that the racking rooms on the ground floor of the new brewery cover more than one and a half acre1 the tunning rooms of the same area contain #b1edh tunning casks of #afj gallons each2 and the copper house contains three water coppers that will boil #ab1jjj gallons each2 and eleven wort coppers that will each boil #b1bjj gallons of wort4 ,on the cooperage great demands are made1 for about #dj1jjj casks1 which are made in part by machinery1 are annually exported4 ,the firm has thirty-two maltings at ,burton1 and others elsewhere1 which1 during the malting season1 make #g1fjj qrs4 per week4 ,the annual issue of ,bass and ,co4's labels amounts to over one hundred millions4 ,some idea of this quantity may be gathered from the fact that if they were put end to end in one long line they would reach to ,new ,york and back again1 a distance of five thousand miles4 ,both the late ,mr4 ,bass's sons are members of the firm4 ,the eldest1 ,lord ,burton of ,rangemore1 late member for the ,burton division of ,staffordshire1 represented ,stafford from #ahfe to #ahfh1 and ,east ,staffordshire from #ahfh to #ahhf4 ,mr4 ,hamar ,bass1 the second son1 represented ,tamworth for some years1 and in the general elections of #ahhe-f was returned for ,west ,staffordshire4 ,between the firms of ,bass and ,allsopp there is a friendly rivalry as to which shall brew the best ale4 ,a few years since ,sir ,m4 ,arthur ,bass and ,mr4 ,charles ,allsopp while fishing on ,loch ,quvich1 in ,inverness-shire1 were nearly drowned4 ,sir ,arthur had hooked a large fish1 and ,mr4 ,allsopp1 eager to see it1 stepped on one side of the boat1 which at once capsized4 ,the anglers and their attendants clung to the bottom of the boat1 and were ultimately thrown on an island in an exhausted condition6 ,the following paragraph shortly afterwards appeared in the ,world3--8,the exciting accident which nearly proved the death of the rival brewers of ,burton-on-,trent1 at once so touching in its record of disinterested friendship1 and so highly satisfactory in its sequel to the world at large1 has suddenly inundated me with facetious rhyme and caustic epigram4 ,this is how one of my correspondents treats the subject3-- ,let friends who go fishing for salmon or wrasse1 ,take a hint from the story of ,allsop and ,bass2 ,when you hook a fine fish1 of your brother keep clear1 ,or your salmon1 when caught1 may embitter your beer 7bier74 #cdg ,one of the most ancient and important brewing centres in the kingdom is the city of ,dublin4 ,with one exception1 all its breweries are exclusively devoted to the manufacture of stout1 that sturdy beverage the fame of which has gone forth into all lands2 and just as ,burton has acquired the right to be termed the ,pale ,ale ,metropolis1 so does ,ireland's chief town contend with ,london for the honour of being called the ,capital of ,black ,beer4 ,it is remarkable that so early as the commencement of the seventeenth century1 ,dublin was already a notable brewing centre1 producing a description of brown ale4 ,barnaby ,ryche1 writing about that time1 gives a quaint account of the manners and customs of the people1 and calls attention to the great number of alehouses in ,dublin during the reign of ,james ,i4 8,i am now10 he says1 8to speake of a certaine kind of commodity1 that outstretcheth all that ,i have hitherto spoken of1 and that is the selling of ale in ,dublin1 a quotidian commodity that hath vent in every house in the towne1 every day in the weeke1 at every houre in the day1 and in every minute in the houre3 ,there is no merchandise so vendible1 it is the very marrow of the commonwealth in ,dublin3 the whole profit of the towne stands upon ale-houses1 and selling of ale1 but yet the cittizens1 a little to dignifie the title1 as they use to call every pedlar a merchant1 so they use to call every ale-house a taverne1 whereof there are such plentie1 that there are streates of tavernes4 84 4 4 4 ,this free mart of ale selling in ,dublyne is prohibited to none1 but that it is lawfull for every woman 7be she better or be she worse7 either to brewe or else to sell ale40 ,about the time of the ,restoration there were ninety-one public brewhouses in ,dublin1 and in the early part of the eighteenth century the trade1 though on the decrease1 was evidently thriving1 the brewhouses being seventy in number4 ,it seems1 however1 that1 as the century wore on1 the trade died away1 for in #aggc there were only thirty-five ,breweries surviving4 ,the decay of so important an industry was chiefly due to three causes3 ,in the first place1 the ,irish brewers were saddled with a heavy tax1 and1 secondly1 ,english ,porter was taking the place of old ,irish brown ale in the popular fancy4 ,an old song on the ,tavern of the ,cross ,keys1 in ,dublin1 composed about the middle of the century1 opens with the lines-- ,when ,london ,porter was not known in town ,and ,irish ale or beer went glibly down4 #cdh ,it does not seem that the ,dublin brewers1 who were frequently petitioning ,parliament for assistance1 faced the difficulty by brewing ,porter themselves until the year #aggh4 ,the third adverse influence was the taste for ardent spirits1 especially rum and brandy1 which had sprung up2 and the ,irish records of the day are full of allusions to the injury which this was working1 not only to the trade of the ,brewers1 but to the morals and health of the people4 ,a remarkable letter is still preserved1 written by ,henry ,grattan on this subject at the close of the century4 ,it appears to be addressed to the ,brewers of ,dublin1 probably in answer to one of their numerous petitions for protection4 ,it is as follows3-- 8,gentlemen1 8,the ,health of ,ireland and the prosperity of her breweries ,i consider as intimately connected4 ,i have looked to your trade as to a source of life and a necessary means of subsistence4 ,i have considered it as the natural nurse of the people and entitled to every encouragement1 favour1 and exemption4 ,it is at your source the ,parliament will find in its own country the means of ,health with all her flourishing consequences1 and the cure of intoxication with all her misery4 8,my wishes are with you always4 ,my exertions1 such as they are1 you may ever command4 8,i have the honour to be your sincere and your humble servant1 8,,henry ,,grattan40 ,at present 7#ahhf7 there are only seven firms of any note in ,dublin2 and of those existing a hundred years ago but two survive--,messrs4 ,sweetman's and the well-known house of ,messrs4 ,guinness1 which has long been at the head of the trade in ,ireland4 ,to some ,english readers it may come as a revelation that at the present time this ,irish firm is the greatest producer of malt liquors in the whole world4 ,some account of the rise and progress of so vast a business cannot but be of interest to the student of industrial enterprise1 but in the compass of the present work it will of course only be possible to give the merest outline of its growth4 ,arthur ,guinness1 the great-grandfather of ,sir ,edward ,guinness1 the present owner1 purchased the original premises from a ,mr4 ,ransford in the year #agei4 ,the business appears to have been of very modest dimensions1 for the plant1 as acquired by ,arthur ,guinness1 included only one mash tun and one seventy-barrel copper4 ,the brewery had1 even at that time1 been worked for a considerable period1 certainly from the earliest years of the eighteenth century1 and probably before that4 #cdi ,the property1 about one acre in extent1 thus acquired in #agei1 forms the nucleus of the present gigantic establishment4 ,the principal brewhouse stands to-day precisely on the site once occupied by ,ransford's mash tun and copper2 but since the commencement of the nineteenth century many additional properties have from time to time been acquired1 until at present the total area occupied by the brewhouses and their belongings amounts to between forty and fifty statute acres4 ,for many years the dimensions of the business were but moderate4 ,wakefield1 writing in #ahji1 states that ,guinness was then only the second brewer in ,ireland1 ,beamish and ,crawford of ,cork1 who brewed upwards of #ajj1jjj barrels a year1 standing first4 ,without attempting to account for or to describe the advance1 since ,wakefield's day1 of the great ,dublin firm 7made a limited liability company in ,october1 #ahhf71 we may briefly notice one or two points of special interest connected with the manufacture4 ,the materials used are absolutely confined to malt1 pale and roasted1 and hops4 ,of the latter a preference has always been shown for those of ,kent1 no other ,english varieties being used4 ,but of late years ,american ,hops have been largely consumed as well4 ,the water for brewing is drawn from the ,city ,watercourses1 and not from the ,liffey1 as some people unacquainted with ,dublin have supposed4 ,it would be impossible here to describe in detail the process or the plant of the ,st4 ,james' ,gate ,brewery1 and owing to the position held by the firm it seems almost unnecessary to say that every modern improvement of the ,engineer and the ,scientist1 whether for facilitating the operations of ,brewing or for ensuring the safety and welfare of those employed1 has been carefully investigated and judiciously applied4 ,the minute attention which is paid to every detail of the process1 from the manufacture and selection of the malt1 to the treatment and storage of the beer in every stage1 is matched by the liberal provision made for the men engaged in the work and their families4 ,to the visitor nothing is more astonishing than the size and number of the vats4 ,some of these huge erections of ,oak and ,iron contain no less than #ij1jjj gallons apiece2 and to a lengthened storage in these is due in great measure the peculiar character of the ,stout devoted to the foreign export trade4 ,the tendency in most modern breweries has been to dispense with lengthened storage in vat4 ,not so here1 and the erection of vats of great capacity has kept pace with the extension of the export trade4 ,another remarkable feature is the large provision of ice machines1 #cej or rather of engines for the cooling1 by the evaporation of ether and ammonia1 of fluid brine1 which circulates by a complicated system of copper pipes through every part of the vast storehouses1 and ensures a winter temperature on the hottest summer day4 ,it is the extent to which this system is applied that is so striking in this establishment1 where all is on so vast a scale that the ordinary units of measurement seem inadequate to convey a notion of the truth4 ,the same may be said of the multitude of mains by which the finished beer is conveyed from the storage vats1 a distance of half a mile beneath one of the principal streets of the city1 to the lower portion of the works where the beer is 8racked0 into cask4 ,it is related that the ,empress of ,brazil1 who a few years since visited the ,brewery1 went away under the impression--a not unnatural one--what beer was laid on like gas and water to all the houses in ,dublin4 ,a small railway of #bb-;inch gauge1 and which is altogether about two miles in length1 penetrates every part of the ,brewery4 ,the rolling stock includes six locomotives and upwards of one hundred and sixty trucks and bogies4 ,the descent from the ,brewery to the lower level of the river side has been engineered with remarkable skill4 ,in order to avoid crossing the street which bisects the works a spiral tunnel has been constructed1 by means of which the line descends thirty feet in three circuits1 the diameter of which is only forty yards1 while the gradient is #a in #ci4 ,much of the internal traffic of the ,brewery is thus carried on with ease and rapidity by means of this unique underground railway4 ,so far as is possible in a ,brewery which has been added to from time to time1 advantage has been taken of the physical features of the locality in the general arrangement of the plant4 ,thus the finished beer runs by gravitation from the ,brewery to the ,racking ,stores1 which are situated upon the ,quays4 ,full advantage has been taken of this excellent position1 and the firm possesses a fleet of steamers and barges which convey the filled casks to the docks1 a distance of a mile and a half4 ,the ,export trade is entirely carried on by river1 while a branch line from the ,great ,southern and ,western ,railway terminus bears away many a train-load of porter every day1 to be distributed over the whole length and breadth of ,ireland4 ,we have already borne witness to the increasing popularity of porte in ,ireland1 and feel sure that no better thing could happen to the 8distressful country0 than that the drinking of whisky and the bad substitutes that are sold under that name should be brought within #cea reasonable limits1 and that malt liquor should become the daily drink of every ,irish farmer1 who from that source will find1 to again quote ,grattan's words1 8the means of ,health with all her flourishing consequences1 and the cure of intoxication with all her misery40 ,romford1 in ,essex1 is known to the few as the birthplace of ,sir ,anthony ,cooke and ,francis ,quarles1 the poet2 but to the many it is the source whence come certain excellent and deservedly popular ales4 ,through the town wanders a little stream now called the ,rom1 but described in old country ,maps as the ,bourne ,brooke1 and which in the fifteenth century was called the ,mercke-dyche4#fg ,towards the close of the eighteenth century there stood by the bridge which carries the ,high ,street over this rivulet1 a small ,inn called the ,star4 ,the innkeeper1 according to the fashion of the times1 brewed his own beer1 and at the rear of his hostel was a small brewhouse4 ,his mash tub was no doubt of modest dimensions1 and his 8liquor0 was possibly drawn from the ,mercke-dyche1 for in that day pure water could be got from most streams and rivers4 ,now1 sad to say1 an unpolluted stream is almost unknown1 and nine wells supply the water which1 with a due admixture of malt and hops1 forms that admirable compound known as ,romford ,ale4 #fg ,it is curious that the river now takes its name from the town1 and not vice versa1 as is generally the case4 8,romford0 is mentioned in the ,red ,book of the ,exchequer in #aaff1 when the stream was called the ,mercke-dyche4 ,some antiquarians derive the word from ,roman-ford1 but it probably simply means broad-ford1 the first syllable being the ,saxon word for broad and akin to roomy4 ,in the year #agii two important events happened in the town4 ,that which probably created the most profound sensation among the inhabitants was the death of a most eccentric person1 ,james ,wilson1 the corpulent butcher of ,romford4 ,this worthy was in the habit of going to church on ,sunday sometime before the hour of service1 and loudly singing psalms by himself1 until the minister came to the desk4 ,on the last fast-day before his death he remained in church between morning and evening services1 repeating the ,lord's ,prayer and singing psalms in each of the pews1 only leaving the church when there remained no pew in which he had not performed his devotions4 ,another peculiarity was the peripatetic manner in which he sometimes took his meals4 ,armed with a shoulder of mutton in one hand1 some salt in the bend of his arm1 a small loaf1 and a large knife1 he would wander up and down the street until all was consumed4 ,he was1 moreover1 an #ceb excellent penman1 as the vestry books to this day witness1 and his meat bills were well worthy of framing4 ,one line would be in ,german text1 another in ,roman characters2 no two meats being written in the same coloured ink4 ,the death of such a man naturally attracted more attention than the second event alluded to1 a small commercial transaction1 which we venture to think was of more importance to the community at large than the decease of the butcher4 ,this was the purchase of the ,star ,inn and ,brewery by ,mr4 ,ind1 who1 in conjunction with a ,mr4 ,grosvenor1 carried on the business of a brewer4 ,seventeen years later the partnership was dissolved1 ,mr4 ,john ,smith took the place of ,mr4 ,grosvenor1 and until #ahde the firm traded as ,ind and ,smith4 ,in that year ,mr4 ,smith sold his share in the ,brewery1 and ,mr4 ,o4 ,e4 ,coope and his brother1 ,george ,coope1 joined the firm1 which then1 for the first time1 adopted its present title of ,ind1 ,coope ,co4 ,a few years back the following epigram appeared in one of the ,london comic papers in connection with the name of the firm and ,drink1 the ,english version of the play ,l',assomoir3-- ,the drunkards in the play of ,drink ,all reeling in a group1 ,o1 ,close on intoxication's brink1 ,swill stronger stuff than soup1 ,o1 ,what is their liquor do you think8-- ,it should be ,ind and ,coope1 ,o 7,coupeau74 ,mr4 ,ind1 the founder of the ,romford ,brewery1 died in #ahdh1 his place being taken by his son1 the present ,mr4 ,ind4 ,mr4 ,e4 ,v4 ,ind1 another son of the founder1 was also made a partner1 as was ,mr4 ,charles ,peter ,matthews1 to whose skill as a brewer ,romford ,ales owe much of their reputation4 ,in #aheh1 ,mr4 ,thomas ,helme 7who has recently assumed the name of ,mashiter7 joined the firm1 which consisted in #ahhf of ,messrs4 ,o4 ,e4 ,coope2 ,edward ,ind2 ,c4 ,p4 ,matthews 7the general managing partner72 ,t4 ,mashiter2 together with their four sons1 and ,major ,f4 ,j4 ,n4 ,ind1 son of the late ,mr4 ,e4 ,v4 ,ind4 ,in #ahec ,messrs4 ,ind1 ,coope ,co4 purchased a brewery at ,burton1 which1 having been enlarged from time to time1 now rivals in size the old brewhouse at ,romford4 ,it is under the direction of ,mr4 ,e4 ,j4 ,bird1 the ,burton managing partner4 ,the mash tuns1 vats1 coppers1 c41 of the ,romford brewery differ but little from those used by other firms of the first rank4 ,in the brewhouse are thirty-two malt bins1 the eight largest of which hold #ijj quarters1 and are each about as large as a small dwelling-house4 #cec ,altogether #aj1jjj quarters of malt can be stored4 ,extensive hop rooms1 one of which is #aaj feet long by #hj feet wide1 afford storage for #e1jjj pockets of hops4 ,there are six coppers1 the largest of which holds #cb1djj gallons4 ,in the fermenting room are twenty-four squares with capacities ranging up to #ejj barrels4 ,the stores are in seventeen buildings connected by tramways1 and the tram lines on which the casks are rolled are about eight miles in length4 ,about #fjj1jjj full casks of various sizes are sent out from the store every year4 ,in the stores are twenty-three huge vats used for storing old ale4 ,the cooperage is one of the largest departments in the brewery1 giving employment to thirty-two coopers and fifty-six assistants4 ,in the stables are some forty or fifty horses1 and the more thoroughly to dispel the popular delusion that brewers' horses are fed on grains1 it may be worth while stating that these have each an allowance of #db lbs4 per day of oats1 beans1 clover1 meadow-hay1 oat-straw and bran1 all either cut or bruised and mixed together4 ,on the brewery are kept three fire-engines 7a steamer and two manuals7 and a well organised fire-brigade of ten men1 which is ever ready to render its services at fires in the neighbourhood4 ,a laudable feature in connection with the brewery is a ,friendly ,society1 to which all the employs belong1 and which ensures their receiving1 among other benefits1 a substantial allowance during sickness4 ,at ,romford the firm give employment to three hundred men and boys1 exclusive of officials1 collectors1 c41 and are large employers of labour at their ,london stores 7where eighty horses are in use72 at their ,burton brewery1 and at their twenty-five country depts4 ,the firm is a great supporter of the ,volunteer movement4 ,for many years ,mr4 ,coope was ,major of the ,essex ,volunteers1 and one company of the battalion to which he was attached is entirely made up of brewery employs1 8doughty sons of malt and hops40 ,messrs4 ,ind1 ,coope ,co4 stick to the old-fashioned materials for their beer1 and the large extent of what may be termed their private family trade is an indication not to be lightly disregarded that we ,english still adhere to our ancient friendship for ,sir ,john ,barleycorn4 ,one other ,burton ,brewery yet remains to be mentioned1 that of ,messrs4 ,thomas ,salt ,company1 at the head of which firm is ,mr4 ,henry ,wardle1 the present 7#ahhf7 member for ,south ,derbyshire1 the other partners being ,messrs4 ,edward ,dawson ,salt1 ,william ,cecil ,salt1 and ,henry ,george ,tomlinson4 ,to trace the origin of the firm1 it is necessary to go back as far as #ced the year #aggd1 when ,messrs4 ,salt ,co4's maltings were worked in conjunction with the brewery of ,messrs4 ,clay ,sons4 ,it was about this time that the great-grandfather of two present members of the firm added a brewery to the malting business1 and thus1 in the list of brewers1 then few in number1 given in the records of the town for #aghi1 we find the name of ,thomas ,salt4 ,in #ahbb the only ,burton ,brewers mentioned in ,pigott's ,commercial ,directory were ,s4 ,allsopp ,co42 ,bass and ,ratcliffe2 ,thomas ,salt ,co42 ,john ,sherrard2 and ,william ,worthington4 ,when in #ahbc the ,burton brewers determined to brew an ale which could compete with ,hodgson's then well-known ,india pale ale1 ,salt ,co4 were among the first to bring the idea to a practical issue4 ,there must indeed have been no lack of energy on the part of the firm1 for in #ahhd they came off with flying colours at the ,international ,health ,exhibition1 gaining a gold medal for the excellence of their ale4 ,salt ,co4's brewery is bounded on the front by the ,high ,street1 while at the back flows the silvery ,trent1 the waters of which are not used in brewing1 as many people suppose4 ,even in ,burton1 famous as it is for its waters1 every well sunk does not produce the right sort of 8liquor10 and ,messrs4 ,salt ,co41 after many fruitless borings on their own premises1 were obliged to sink an artesian well a quarter of a mile distant before they could obtain the water most suitable for their purpose4 ,the firm have several maltings in ,burton1 the most important of which is that situated on the ,wallsitch4 ,it consists of three huge blocks of buildings1 each of which is seventy yards long1 thirty wide1 and four storeys high4 ,as a malting has not yet been described in this book1 some account of the interior of ,john ,barleycorn's ,crematory1 taking that last erected by ,messrs4 ,salt ,co4 as a sample1 may be read with interest4 ,on the ground floor is the cistern1 into which the barley1 after being cleansed 7technically 8screened071 is placed for the purpose of being steeped4 ,at the end of about fifty hours the clear water is drained off1 and the soaked barley is thrown into the couch frame1 where it remains about twenty-five hours4 ,the grain has now commenced to germinate4 ,the next process is to distribute it over various floors 7by means of baskets lowered and raised by steam windlasses71 where it is spread on clean red tiles1 in layers varying from two to four inches in thickness1 according to the temperature of the weather4 ,for four or five days the barley is left to grow4 ,at the end of that time its vitality begins to flag #cee for lack of moisture1 and more water is added1 the skill of the maltster being taxed to the utmost in assigning such a proportion of water as will develop the grain into perfect malt4 ,at the end of about ten days germination is complete4 ,a great and wonderful transformation has now taken place1 the hard stubborn corn having been reduced to tender friable malt4 ,the next process is to dry the malt1 and for this purpose it is placed in a kiln and subjected to a high temperature until the vital principle of germination is extinguished1 and the desired colour has been acquired4 ,any dry rootlets which adhere to the grain are then separated by trampling1 a second screening takes place1 and the malt is measured into sacks1 every precaution being taken to prevent exposure to the atmosphere1 until it is finally placed in the big bins above the mash tub4 ,in the process of malting the most ingenious apparatus used is the screen1 which may be described as a multum in parvo piece of mechanism4 ,of these machines there are three1 each being worked by an endless leathern rope1 and by an ingenious system of graduated riddles1 performing four distinct operations4 ,in one compartment the dust is blown away by revolving fans1 in another the broken half-corns are removed2 the third action clears all stones1 rubbish1 c41 away1 and finally the thin inferior corns are separated4 ,to avoid repetition1 we are obliged to omit a description of the brewery1 those of the first class at ,burton being very similar to one another4 ,in order to give some idea of the extent of ,messrs4 ,salt and ,co4's operations1 it may be mentioned that in the new house are five mash tubs1 each with a capacity of fifty-five qrs4 of malt4 ,the cooperage belonging to this firm is noteworthy1 the casks being made by elaborate machinery worked by steam1 a system followed in very few ,english breweries1 but which is not uncommon in ,america4 ,in the archives of the firm of ,truman1 ,hanbury1 ,buxton ,co41 is a document bearing the date #agai1 which purports to be 8,an ,inventory of the ,goods1 ,chattels1 and ,credits of ,joseph ,truman1 which since his death have come into the hands1 possession and knowledge of ,benjamin ,truman1 ,daniel ,cooper1 and the ,executors named in the will of ,joseph ,truman40 ,no earlier written record of the firm is in existence1 but there is a tradition that at some remote period of history there existed one ,john ,oliver ,truman1 who carried on the business in ,brick ,lane1 and to this day all casks leaving the brewery are branded ,i4,o4,t4 ,even in #agda the business transacted was considerable4 ,there were then four partners--,benjamin ,truman1 ,john ,denne1 ,francis ,cooper and the #cef executors of ,alud ,denne4 ,among the customers were two hundred and ninety-six publicans1 one of whom was ,john ,denne1 who retailed the beer made by this firm4 ,to the ,benjamin ,truman above-mentioned must be given the credit of having made the brewery one of the most important in ,london4 ,in #agcg1 when the ,duchess of ,brunswick 7grand-daughter of ,george ,,ii47 was born1 the ,prince of ,wales ordered bonfires to be made before ,carlton ,house1 and four barrels of beer to be given to the populace4 ,but the brewer to the royal household provided beer of the smallest1 and the mob threw it in each other's faces and into the fire4 ,the ,prince good-naturedly ordered a second bonfire the succeeding night1 and ,benjamin ,truman supplied the beer4 ,he had the wisdom to send a sturdy brew1 the best his cellars could produce1 and the people were greatly pleased4 ,with such a shrewd trader at its head1 it is not surprising that by #agfj ,truman's had taken its place as third among the great ,london ,breweries4 ,calvert and ,seward came first with #gd1gjd barrels1 ,whitbread's next with #fj1ejh barrels1 ,truman's following with #fj1adj barrels4 ,benjamin ,truman was knighted by ,george ,,iii41 and portraits of him and his daughter1 by ,gainsborough1 still hang in the drawing room of the house in ,brick ,lane4 ,in the same room is a portrait of ,mr4 ,sampson ,hanbury 7the first of the name who joined the firm71 a famous sportsman1 who for thirty-five years was ,master of the ,puckeridge ,hounds4 ,he entered the firm in #aghj1 and was subsequently joined by his brother4 ,sampson ,hanbury's sister1 ,anna1 married ,thomas ,fowell ,buxton1 of ,earle's ,colne4 ,this gentleman was ,high ,sheriff of his county1 and served the office with special credit4 ,he died in #agib1 leaving a widow1 three sons1 and two daughters4 ,the eldest son1 ,thomas ,fowell ,buxton1 was only six years old at his father's death4 ,this little fellow was destined to be1 perhaps1 the most distinguished partner in the firm4 ,he was educated at ,greenwich1 and ,trinity ,college1 ,dublin1 at which latter place he carried off the highest honours1 and when only twenty-one years of age received an influential requisition to represent the ,university in ,parliament4 ,this honour he declined4 ,he had originally been intended for the ,bar1 but in #ahjh1 when on a visit to the brewery1 his uncles1 ,osgood and ,sampson ,hanbury1 being struck with his undoubted abilities1 offered him a situation in the business1 and in #ahaa made him a partner4 ,the other members of the firm at that time were ,mr4 ,sampson ,hanbury1 ,mr4 ,john ,truman ,villebois1 and ,mr4 ,henry ,villebois4 #ceg ,to the young partner was soon given the work of re-modelling the ,establishment1 a task in which he succeeded admirably4 ,a few years later he began to take an interest in public affairs1 devoting himself more particularly to a consideration of subjects connected with prison discipline and the criminal code1 into which his early training for the ,bar gave him some insight4 ,in #ahah he was elected for ,weymouth1 and1 owing in a great measure to his exertions and co-operation1 ,sir ,robert ,peel carried his ,bill for the abolition of capital punishment for trivial offences4 ,mr4 ,buxton's great work was in connection with the ,slavery question4 ,into the cause of ,liberty he threw himself heart and soul1 and to his unceasing endeavours were in great measure due the glorious results ultimately achieved4 ,the ,beer ,act1 passed in #ahcj1 had ,mr4 ,buxton's approval4 8,i have always voted for free trade when the interests of others are concerned10 he said1 8and it would be awkward to change when my own are in jeopardy4 ,i am pleased to have an opportunity of proving that our real monoply is one of skill and capital40 ,in ,june1 #ahca1 occurred a noteworthy event in the history of the firm4 ,this was a visit by a number of ,cabinet ,ministers to inspect the brewery4 ,mr4 ,buxton had provided an elaborate banquet1 but ,lord ,brougham said that beef-steaks and porter were more appropriate to the occasion1 so of those excellent comestibles the dinner in great part consisted4 ,of this visit ,mr4 ,buxton has left a very lively account1 too long1 unfortunately1 to be given here4 ,among the guests1 who numbered twenty-three1 were the ,lord ,chancellor1 ,lord ,grey1 the ,duke of ,richmond1 the ,marquis of ,cleveland1 ,lords ,shaftesbury1 ,sefton1 ,howick1 ,durham1 and ,duncannon1 ,general ,alava1 ,dr4 ,lushington1 ,spring ,rice and ,w4 ,brougham4 ,mr4 ,buxton first took them to see the steam engine4 ,lord ,brougham immediately delivered a little lecture upon steam power1 and1 as the party went through the brewery1 had so much to say about the machinery that ,joseph ,gurney said he understood brewing better than any person on the premises4 ,at dinner 8the ,chancellor lost not a moment1 he was always eating1 drinking1 talking or laughing40 ,later on the ,ministers inspected the stables1 and the ,lord ,chancellor surprised everyone by his knowledge of horseflesh4 ,some one proposed that he should mount one of the horses and ride round the yard1 which he seemed very willing to do--such is the power of brown stout6 ,on the #ith ,november1 #ahda1 a large new structure was opened1 and to celebrate the event a supper was given to the men4 ,in the midst of it the good news came that the ,queen had given birth to a son4 ,in honour of ,her ,majesty's first-born1 a huge vat was christened4 8,the #ceh ,prince of ,wales40 ,the inscription can still be seen4 ,twenty-five years later1 when on a visit to the brewery1 his ,royal ,highness had the satisfaction of drinking a glass of stout drawn from his namesake4 ,in #ahcg1 after twenty years' faithful service1 ,mr4 ,buxton was defeated at ,weymouth4 ,finding his health demanded repose1 though invited by twenty-seven constituencies to represent them1 he determined to leave ,parliamentary life1 and in #ahda a baronetcy was conferred on him by ,lord ,john ,russell4 ,even when out of ,parliament he gave himself no rest1 his mind being full of philanthropic schemes4 ,he died in #ahde1 at the age of fifty-nine1 and was buried in ,westminster ,abbey4 ,in #ahbj ,mr4 ,robert ,hanbury1 nephew of ,mr4 ,sampson ,hanbury1 became a partner in the firm1 of which he was the head for many years4 ,he was born in #agif1 and during the few years previous to his death was the oldest member of the ,london brewing trade4 ,he is remembered for his philanthropy and benevolence4 ,during the period when ,mr4 ,thomas ,f4 ,buxton was engaged with public affairs nearly the whole management and control of the brewery fell on ,mr4 ,hanbury4 ,in #ahad the first steam-engine was erected in the brewery4 ,previously the mashing was accomplished with long oars worked by sturdy ,irishmen1 and each brewing occupied twenty-four hours4 ,at the present time 7#ahhf7 the members of the firm are ,messrs4 ,arthur ,pryor2 ,c4 ,a4 ,hanbury2 ,t4 ,f4 ,buxton2 ,sir ,t4 ,fowell ,buxton1 ,bart42 ,messrs4 ,e4 ,n4 ,buxton2 ,j4 ,h4 ,buxton2 ,e4 ,s4 ,hanbury2 ,a4 ,v4 ,pryor2 ,r4 ,pryor2 ,j4 ,m4 ,hanbury2 and ,gerald ,buxton4 ,of these perhaps the best known to the public is ,mr4 ,edward ,north ,buxton1 whose name has long been before them in connection with many measures of national importance4 ,messrs4 ,truman1 ,hanbury1 ,buxton ,co4 have always been a little ahead of the times1 and it is not surprising to find in the brewery appliances of the most improved description4 ,as an instance of this1 when ,lord ,palmerston was at the ,home ,office he ordered that all ,london manufacturers should erect smoke-consuming furnaces4 ,mr4 ,buxton had1 however1 already adopted the principle1 so that when the ,home ,secretary was abused by the manufacturers for ordering them to do the impossible1 he was able to point out that what he desired had been already done4 ,palmerston publicly thanked the firm for this in the ,house of ,commons4 ,the brewery1 cooperage1 and stables in ,brick ,lane cover about five acres1 and near at hand are the ,coverley ,fields1 where are the #cei signboard and wheelwright shops1 cellars1 c41 covering about three and a half acres4 ,as may be imagined1 a small army of men is employed in the brewery1 numbering in all about four hundred and fifty4 ,worthy of special notice in the brewhouse are the cleansing vessels1 which1 being very shallow1 do their work with great rapidity4 ,on the ground-floor is a novelty1 one room being completely filled with shallow slate vessels for holding the yeast in summer4 ,each of these vessels has a false bottom1 under which cold liquor 7in vulgar parlance1 water7 constantly circulates1 rendering the yeast so cool that is may be kept for some time in the hottest summer weather4 ,in the brewery are ninety-five vats1 which have a total capacity of #c1dfc1iib gallons1 an amount which it has been calculated is about five times the capacity of all the swimming-baths in ,london put together4 ,these huge vats are1 however1 but rarely used4 ,nearly #hj1jjj casks are always in use4 ,when the light ales came into fashion ,messrs4 ,truman ,co4 wisely determined to start a pale-ale brewery at ,burton4 ,they carried out their resolve in #ahgd4 ,of this it can only be said that everything ,science could do to make the brewery perfect was done1 and that the pale ales are brewed on the most approved ,burton principles4 ,the founder of the firm of ,whitbread ,co4 was the son of a yeoman who lived on a small estate at ,cardington1 in ,bedfordshire4 ,on his father's death he improved the property by building1 and from one propitious circumstance to another gradually amassed an immense fortune4 ,it was in the year #agdb that ,mr4 ,whitbread commenced business as a brewer1 at the ,brew ,house1 ,old ,street1 ,st4 ,luke's1 the premises now occupied by the firm of ,more ,co4 ,in #agej he removed to ,chiswell ,street1 where for fifty years previously had been a brewery4 ,here the business was developed with great vigour1 and from the returns made necessary in #agfj by the imposition of a ,beer-tax1 we learn that in that year ,whitbread's brewed no less than #fc1djh barrels of beer1 only one other ,london firm--,calvert ,seward--brewing a greater quantity4 ,in #aghe steam power was introduced into the brewery4 ,in connection with this event are two very celebrated names1 for the ,sun and ,planet engine1 still in use1 was manufactured by the firm of which ,watt was a partner2 and ,john ,rennie adapted the other machinery to the new motive power4 ,about the same period six huge underground cisterns were made1 after designs by ,smeaton1 varying in capacity from #gjj to #c1fjj barrels each4 ,two years later ,mr4 ,whitbread had the honour of a visit from ,king ,george and ,queen ,charlotte1 the particulars #cfj of which are recorded in a humorous poem of considerable length1 by ,peter ,pindar 7,dr4 ,walcot71 a few verses from which will suffice to give some idea of what took place on that auspicious occasion4 ,a more prosaic1 and no doubt more credible1 account will be found in the ,daily ,chronicle of that period4 99 99 99 99 99 ,full of the art of brewing beer1 ,the monarch heard of ,whitbread's fame2 ,quoth he unto the queen1 8,my dear1 my dear1 ,whitbread hath got a marvellous great name2 ,charly1 we must1 must1 must see ,whitbread brew-- ,rich as us1 ,charly1 richer than a ,jew2 ,shame1 shame1 we have not yet his brewhouse seen60 ,thus sweetly said the king unto the queen4 ,red-hot with novelty's delightful rage1 ,to ,mister ,whitbread forth he sent a page1 ,to say that ,majesty proposed to view1 ,with thirst of knowledge deep inflam'd1 ,his vats1 and tubs1 and hops1 and hogsheads fam'd1 ,and learn the noble secret how to brew4 99 99 99 99 99 ,the preparations at the brewery are then described1 followed by the arrival of ,king1 ,queen1 ,princesses and ,courtiers4 ,the conversation of the ,king1 who 8asked a thousand questions with a laugh1 before poor ,whitbread comprehended half10 was1 according to the poet1 as 8five hundred parrots1 gabbling just like ,jews40 ,thus was the brewhouse fill'd with gabbling noise1 ,whilst drayman1 and the brewer's boys1 ,devour'd the questions that the ,king did ask3 ,in diff'rent parties were they staring seen1 ,wond'ring to think they saw a ,king and ,queen6 ,behind a tub were some1 and some behind a cask4 ,some draymen forc'd themselves 7a pretty luncheon7 ,into the mouth of many a gaping puncheon2 ,and through the bunghole wink'd with curious eye1 ,to view and be assur'd what sort of things ,were princesses1 and queens1 and kings2 ,for whose most lofty stations thousands sigh6 ,and1 lo6 of all the gaping clan1 ,few were the mouths that had not got a man6 #cfa ,george ,,iii4 was no doubt of opinion that a thing worth doing was worth doing well1 and no detail of the manufacture of beer seemed too insignificant to interest him4 8,thus microscopic geniuses explore10 says ,peter ,pindar4 ,and now his curious majesty did stoop ,to count the nails on ev'ry hoop2 ,and1 lo6 no single thing came in his way1 ,that1 full of deep research1 he did not say1 8,what's this8 he1 he8 ,what's that8 ,what's this8 ,what's that80 ,so quick the words too when he deign'd to speak1 ,as if each syllable would break its neck4 ,the extent of the business at that time may be gathered from the following verse3-- ,now boasting ,whitbread1 serious did declare1 ,to make the majesty of ,england stare1 ,that he had buts enough1 he knew1 ,plac'd side by side1 to reach along to ,kew3 ,on which the king with wonder swiftly cry'd1 8,what if they reach to ,kew then1 side by side1 ,what would they do1 what1 what1 plac'd end to end80 ,to this ,mr4 ,whitbread replies that they would probably reach to ,windsor4 ,after awhile the ,king began to take notes4 ,now1 majesty1 alive to knowledge1 took ,a very pretty memorandum-book1 ,with gilded leaves of asses' skins so white1 ,and in it legibly did write-- ,memorandum1 ,a charming place beneath the grates1 ,for roasting chesnuts or potates1 ,mem4 ',tis hops that gives a bitterness to beer-- ,hops grow in ,kent1 says ,whitbread1 and elsewhere4 ,quaere4 ,is there no cheaper stuff8 where doth it dwell8 ,would not horse-aloes bitter it as well8 #cfb ,mem4 ,to try it soon on our small beer-- ',twill save us sev'ral pounds a year4 99 99 99 99 99 ,mem4 ,not to forget to take of beer the cask ,the brewers offer'd me1 away4 99 99 99 99 99 ,to ,whitbread now deign'd majesty1 to say1 8,whitbread are all your horses fond of hay80 8,yes1 please your ,majesty60 in humble notes1 ,the brewer answered--8also fond of oats3 ,another thing my horses too maintains-- ,and that1 an't please your ,majesty are grains40 8,grains--grains10 said majesty1 8to fill their crops8 ,grains1 grains1 that comes from hops--yes1 hops1 hops1 hops40 ,later on the brewery pigs were reviewed by the ,king1 ,on which the observant man who fills a throne ,declar'd the pigs were vastly like his own4 ,after the brewery had been inspected ,mr4 ,whitbread entertained the ,king and ,queen at a banquet4 ,for several sessions ,mr4 ,whitbread sat in ,parliament as the member for ,bedford4 ,he was a man of much benevolence1 and it is said of him that his charity1 which was as judicious as it was extensive1 was felt in every parish where he had property4 ,his private distributions annually exceeded #c1jjj4 ,among the records of the ,brewers' ,company we came upon a conveyance from him to the ,company of three freehold farms in ,bedfordshire1 the income arising from which was to be devoted to supporting 8one or two ,master brewers of the age of fifty years or upwards1 who had carried on the trade of a brewer within the bills of mortality or two miles thereof for many years in a considerable and respectable manner with good characters but by losses in the brewing trade only shall have come to decay or been reduced in circumstances and want relief40 ,by another indenture of the same date three dwelling houses in ,whitecross ,street1 ,london1 are conveyed to the ,company1 the income to be devoted towards the 8support and relief of poor freemen of the ,coy4 of ,brewers being proper objects and their widows 7particularly preferring such objects as shall be blind1 lame #cfc afflicted with palsy or very aged740 ,the date of the gift is #agid4 ,only two years later the donor died4 ,his portrait1 by ,sir ,joshua ,reynolds1 is still to be seen in the ,hall of the ,brewers' ,company4 ,mr4 ,samuel ,whitbread1 son of the founder1 and remembered as ,mr4 ,whitbread the politician1 now became the head of the firm1 and1 having associated with himself partners1 carried on the business as ,whitbread ,co4 ,he sat in ,parliament for several years1 and was a firm supporter of the ,liberal party4 ,it is related of him that being one evening at ,brooks's he talked loudly and largely against the ,ministers for laying what was called the war-tax upon malt2 every one present of course concurred with him in opinion2 but ,sheridan could not resist the gratification of displaying his ever ready wit4 ,taking out his pencil1 he wrote upon the back of a letter the following lines1 which he handed to ,mr4 ,whitbread across the table3-- ,they've raised the price of table drink2 ,what is the reason1 do you think8 ,the tax on malt's the cause1 ,i hear3 ,but what has malt to do with beer8 ,mr4 ,whitbread the politician is mentioned in ,rejected ,addresses1 and it is worthy of note that he took a considerable part in the rebuilding of ,drury ,lane ,theatre after it had been destroyed by fire4 ,since #agfj the business had wonderfully increased4 ,in #ahjf we find ,whitbread ,co4 stand fourth among the ,london brewers1 brewing #aja1caa barrels4 ,in the succeeding ten years the business more than doubled itself1 the beer brewed in #ahae amounting to #bfa1jah barrels4 ,mr4 ,whitbread1 the son of the founder1 died in #ahbj4 ,a writer in the ,london ,magazine of that date gives a careful study of his character as a politician4 8,he was an honest man1 and a true ,parliamentary speaker4 ,he had no artifices1 no tricks1 no reserve about him4 ,he spoke point-blank what he thought1 and his heart was in his broad1 honest1 ,english face4 4 4 4 4 ,if a falsehood was stated1 he contradicted it instantly in a few brief words3 if an act of injustice was palliated1 it excited his contempt2 if it was justified1 it roused his indignation2 he retorted a mean insinuation with manly spirit1 and never shrank from a frank avowal of his sentiments40 ,mr4 ,whitbread the politician left two sons1 the younger of whom represented ,middlesex for several years1 and died in #ahgi4 ,of the present member for ,bedford1 grandson of the politician1 we need say but little4 #cfd ,he was born in #ahcj1 was educated at ,rugby and ,cambridge1 has sat for ,bedford since #aheb1 and is one of the most respected members of the ,house of ,commons4 ,there are1 it need hardly be said1 many other brewing firms of the first rank in the ,united ,kingdom4 ,the length to which this chapter has grown absolutely prohibits us from giving1 as we had intended1 a sketch of a large ,edinburgh firm4 ,there is1 however1 scattered through these pages continual reference to the good ale--8jolly good ale and old0--of ,scotland4 ,the old ales of ,edinburgh are now giving way somewhat to the pale ales affected by the temperate drinkers of the period1 but old ,scotch ale is by no means a thing of the past1 and has a world-wide reputation4 ,most of the ,edinburgh breweries have been established a very long time1 in some cases over a hundred years4 ,in the earlier portions of this book punning allusions to ale by old writers have been freely quoted2 with them may be compared the following extract from a modern play1 ,little ,jack ,sheppard1 written by ,messrs4 ,stephens and ,yardley1 and which contains facetious references to some of the firms whose histories have just been related4 ,,thames ,,darrell4 ,when out at sea the crew set me1 ,thames ,darrell1 ,afloat upon the waves within a barrel4 ,,winifred ,,wood4 ,in hopes the barrel would turn out your bier4 ,,thames4 ,but ,i'm stout-hearted and ,i didn't fear4 ,i nearly died of thirst4 ,,win4 ,poor boy6 ,alas6 ,,thames4 ,until ,i caught a fish-- ,,win4 ,what sort8 ,,thames4 ,a bass4 ,then came the worst1 which nearly proved my ruin1 ,a storm1 a thing ,i can't abear1 a brewin'4 ,,win4 ,it makes me pale4 ,,thames4 ,it made me pale and ail4 ,when nearly coopered ,i descried a sail2 ,they didn't hear me1 though ,i loudly whooped4 ,within the barrel ,i was inned and cooped4 ,all's up1 ,i thought1 when round they quickly brought her1 ,that ship to me of safety was the porter2 ,half dead and half alive4 ,ha6 ha6 ,,win4 ,don't laugh4 ',twas very bitter4 ,,thames4 ,no1 'twas half and half4 #cfe ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,and what this flood of deeper brown1 ,which a white foam does also crown1 ,less white than snow1 more white than mortar8 ,oh1 my soul6 can this be ,porter8 ,the ,djeun4 ,p raised and caress'd1 the tuneful ,philips sung ,o f ,cyder fam'd1 whence first his laurel sprung2 ,r ise then1 my muse1 and to the world proclaim ,t he mighty charms of ,porter's potent name3 ,e ach buck from thee shall sweetest pleasure taste1 ,r evel secure1 nor think to part in haste4 ,an ,acrostick4 ,,porter ,,and ,,stout4 -- ,,circumstances ,,which ,,led ,,to ,,their ,,introduction4 -- ,,value ,,to ,,the ,,working ,,classes4 -- ,,anecdotes4 -- 8,a ,,pot ,,of ,,porter ,,oh60 ,before the ,blue ,last1 an old public-house situate in ,curtain ,road1 ,shoreditch1 there formerly hung a board which bore this legend3--8,the house where porter was first sold40 ,whether this was true or false we cannot say2 certain it is1 however1 that the drink which has made ,london and ,dublin brewers famed far and wide had its birthplace not far from this spot4 ,it appears that in the early years of last century the lovers of malt liquors in ,london were accustomed to regale themselves upon three classes of these beverages2 they had ale1 beer1 and twopenny4 ,many who preferred a more subtle combination of flavours than either of these liquors #cff alone could impart1 would ask for half-and-half1 that is1 half of ale and half of beer1 half of ale and half of twopenny1 or half of beer and half of twopenny4 ,others again--and these were the real connoisseurs of malt liquors--would call for a pot of three threads1 or three thirds1 i4e41 one-third of ale1 one-third of beer1 and one-third of twopenny4 ,the drawer would therefore have to go to three different casks1 and through three distinct operations1 before he could draw a pint of liquor4 ,but the hour had come--and the man4 ,one ,ralph ,harwood1 whose name is too little known to an ungrateful posterity of beer-drinking ,britons1 some time about the year #agcj1 kept a brewhouse on the east side of ,high ,street1 ,shoreditch4 ,in that year1 or perhaps a little earlier1 as this great man brooded over the inconvenience and waste occasioned by the calls for the 8three threads10 which became more and more frequent1 he conceived the idea of making a liquor which would combine in itself the several virtues of ale1 beer1 and twopenny4 ,he carried the idea into action1 and brewed a drink which he called 8,entire10 or 8,entire ,butts40 ,it was tasted2 it was approved2 it became the fruitful parent of a mighty offspring2 and from that day to this has gone on increasing in name and fame4 ,visitors to the great brewery in ,brick ,lane are shown a hole from which steam issues to the accompaniment of awful rumbling noises4 8,in there once fell a man10 they are told--8a negro4 ,nothing but his bones were found when the copper was emptied1 and it is said that the beer drawn off was of an extraordinary dark colour4 ,some say this was the first brew of porter4 ,oh yes0 7this in answer to a question71 8we soon learnt how to make it without the negro40 ,we must confess that we have some doubts as to this account of the origin of porter4 ,we do not believe that brew could have been much darker on account of the accident1 though no doubt1 under the circumstances1 it contained plenty of 8body40 ,a similar tale is told of nearly every ,london porter brewery1 and later on it will be found in verse4 ,it seems to be to some extent a moot point among the learned how porter obtained its present name1 for no record seems to have been kept of its christening4 ,harwood1 no doubt1 stood godfather to his interesting infant1 but1 as we have seen above1 he called it 8,entire20 and how or when it came to be known as porter is not quite clear4 ,there are several theories on the subject1 each more or less plausible4 ,one is that being a hearty1 appetizing1 and nourishing liquor1 it was specially recommended to the notice of the porters1 who then1 as now1 formed a #cfg considerable proportion of the ,shoreditch population4 ,pennant1 in his ,london seems1 to have held this view2 he calls it 8a wholesome liquor1 which enables the ,london porter-drinkers to undergo tasks that ten gin-drinkers would sink under40 ,another explanation of the origin of the name is that ,harwood sent round his men to his customers with the liquor1 and that the men would announce their arrival and their business by the cry of 8,porter0--meaning1 not the beer1 but the bearer4 ,be this how it may1 the embodiment of ,harwood's great idea had not attained its majority before it was known far and wide by its present name4 99 99 99 99 99 ,in ,the ,student 7#agej7 is thus related the first appearance of porter at ,oxford--4 4 4 8,let us not derogate from the merits of porter--a liquor entirely ,british--a liquor that pleases equally the mechanic and the peer--a liquor which is the strength of our nation1 the scourge of our enemies1 and which has given immortality to aldermen4 ',tis with the highest satisfaction that we can inform our ,oxford students that ,isis herself has taken this divine liquor into her protection1 and that the ,muses recommend it to their votaries1 as being far preferable to ,hippocrene1 ,aganippe1 the ,castalian spring1 or any poetical water whatever4 ,know1 then1 that in the middle of the ,high ,street1 at the sign of the ,king's ,arms1 opposite to its opposite1 ,juggins's ,coffee ,house1 lives ,captain ,jolly2 who maugr the selfish opposition of his brother publicans1 out of a pure affection to this ,university1 and regardless of private profit1 reduc'd porter from its original price of ,sixpence1 and in large golden characters generously informs us that he sells 8,london ,porter ,at ,fourpence a ,quart4 8,as the ,captain is a genius and a choice spirit he meets with the greatest encouragement from the gown1 and sends porter to all the common-rooms4 ,he therefore intends shortly 7in imitation of the great ,ashley1 of the ,punch ,house1 ,ludgate ,hill7 to have the front of his house new vamp'd up1 and decorated with the following inscription3-- 8,pro bono academico4 ,here lives ,captain ,jolly who first reduced ,porter to its' present price and ,brought that liquor into ,university esteem40 #cfh ,though we fear the great ,harwood does not fill the niche in the ,temple of ,fame to which he is entitled1 yet his praises are not entirely unsung4 ,gutteridge1 himself a native of ,shoreditch1 has commemorated the discovery of porter in these lines3-- ,harwood1 my townsman1 he invented first ,porter to rival wine1 and quench the thirst3 ,porter1 which spreads its fame half the world o'er1 ,whose reputation rises more and more2 ,as long as ,porter shall preserve its fame1 ,let all with gratitude our ,parish name4 8,it is not in my power10 says ,pennant in the work we have before quoted1 8to trace the progress of this important article of trade4 ,let me only say that it is now a national concern2 for the duty on malt from ,july #eth1 #aghe1 to the same day #aghf1 produced a million and a half of money to the support of the ,state1 from a liquor which invigorates the bodies of its willing subjects1 to defend the blessings they enjoy4 ,one of these ,chevaliers de ,malte 7as an impertinent ,frenchman styled a most respectable gentleman of the trade7 has1 within one year1 contributed not less than fifty thousand pounds to his own share40 ,the person to whom the ,frenchman applied the title of ,chevalier de ,malte was ,humphrey ,parsons1 a brewer of last century1 and the incident which gave rise to the name has already been referred to4 ,pennant gives a list of the chief porter brewers of ,london at the end of last century1 with the number of barrels of strong beer they brewed from ,midsummer1 #aghf1 to ,midsummer1 #aghg4 ,samuel ,whitbread heads the list with #aej1bhj barrels1 and among the others may be noted ,calvert1 now the ,city of ,london ,brewery2 ,hester ,thrale1 now ,barclay and ,perkins2 ,w4 ,read2 and ,richard ,meux4 ,most of the other names1 though famous in their day and generation1 are not familiar to the modern reader4 ,the total amount produced by some twenty-four of the chief ,london brewers was considerably over one million barrels4 ,it is interesting to contrast the state of the ,brewing trade a hundred years ago with the proportions to which it has attained to-day4 ,according to a ,parliamentary return made in #ahhd1 there are now six brewers of the ,united ,kingdom who produce annually over three and a half million barrels of malt liquor1 and who pay to the revenue in ,licence and ,beer duty nearly one million and a half sterling per annum4 #cfi ,a fine flavour has occasionally been given to stout by extraordinary means1 as witness the following legend1 entitled ,,patent ,,brown ,,stout4 ,a ,brewer in a country town ,had got a monstrous reputation2 ,no other beer but his went down4 ,the hosts of the surrounding station1 ,carving his name upon their mugs1 ,and painting it on every shutter2 ,and though some envious folks would utter1 ,hints that its flavour came from drugs1 ,others maintained 'twas no such matter1 ,but owing to his monstrous vat1 ,at least as corpulent as that ,at ,heidelberg--and some said fatter4 ,his foreman was a lusty ,black1 ,an honest fellow2 ,but one who had a ugly knack ,of tasting samples as he brewed1 ,till he was stupefied and mellow4 ,one day in this top-heavy mood1 ,having to cross the vat aforesaid1 7,just then with boiling beer supplied71 ,o'ercome with giddiness and qualms he ,reel'd--fell in--and nothing more was said1 ,but in his favourite liquor died1 ,like ,clarence in his butt of ,malmsey4 ,in all directions round about ,the negro absentee was sought1 ,but as no human noddle thought ,that our fat ,black was now ,brown ,stout1 ,they settled that the rogue had left ,the place for debt1 or crime1 or theft4 ,meanwhile the beer was day by day ,drawn into casks and sent away1 ,until the lees flowd thick and thicker1 ,when1 lo6 outstretched upon the ground1 ,once more their missing friend they found1 ,as they had often done before--in liquor4 #cgj 8,see10 cried his moralising master1 8,i always knew the fellow drank hard1 ,and prophesied some sad disaster3 ,his fate should other tipplers strike1 ,poor ,mungo6 there he welters like ,a toast at bottom of a tankard60 ,next morn a publican1 whose tap1 ,had help'd to drain the vat so dry1 ,not having heard of the mishap1 ,came to demand a fresh supply1 ,protesting loudly that the last ,all previous specimens surpass'd1 ,possessing a much richer gusto ,than formerly it ever us'd to1 ,and begging1 as a special favour1 ,some more of the exact same flavour4 8,zounds60 cried the brewer1 8that's a task ,more difficult to grant than ask2 ,most gladly would ,i give the smack ,of the last beer to the ensuing1 ,but where am ,i to find a ,black ,and boil him down at every brewing80 ,professor ,wilson1 writing on brewing1#fh thus relates his conversion to the porter-drinker's creed4 #fh ,blackwood's ,magazine1 vol4 xxi4 99 99 99 99 99 8,from ale we naturally get to porter--porter--drink #8fit for the gods1' being1 in fact1 likely to be1 now and then1 too potent for mere mortals4 ,with porter we are less imbued than with ale 7not but that for some years we have imported our annual butt of ,barclay72 and this we hold to be one of the great misfortunes of our life4 ,we were early nurtured in love and affection for #8good ale' by our great aunt1 with whom we were a young and frequent visitant4 ,excellent old ,aunt ,patty6 ,she was a ,yorkshire woman1 and cousin 7three times removed7 to ,mr4 ,wilberforce 7the father74 ,she too hated rum as the devil's own brewage1 but then she loved sound ale in the same ratio4 ,thus it happened1 as we derived our faith in malt liquor from her1 that we #cga penetrated not the mysteries of porter until our elder days4 ,our heresy was first effectually shaken by ,charles ,lamb1 who1 in his admirable way1 proved to us that1 in a hot forenoon1 a draught of ,meux or ,barclay is beyond all cordial restoratives1 and after a broiling peregrination 7the stages were all full7 from ,coleridge's lodgings at ,highgate to town1 gave us a specimen of the inspiring powers of porter in a perspiration1 which we shall remember until the day of our death40 ,lamb was known by all his friends to have an amiable weakness for porter1 and the poet1 in ,an ,ode to ,grog1 thus commemorates the fact3-- ,the spruce ,mr4 ,lamb 7'pon my word it's no flam7 ,with ,whitbread's ,entire makes his ,pegasus jog2 ,i'll grant he's a poet1 but then he don't show wit1 ,in thinking that ,porter is better than grog4 ,burns was fond of porter1 as of all other extracts of malt4 ,he addressed the following lines to his friend ,mr4 ,syme1 along with a present of a dozen of bottled porter3-- ,o1 had the malt thy strength of mind1 ,or hops the flavour of thy wit1 ',twere drink for first of human kind1 ,a gift that e'en for ,syme were fit4 ,we have given what we believe to be a correct historical account of the origin of porter4 ,peter ,pindar1 in the ,lamentations of the ,porter ,vat1 a poem in which he celebrates the bursting of a mighty porter vat at ,meux's ,brewery1 gives a somewhat less prosaic account3-- ,here--as 'tis said--in days of yore1 7,such days1 alas6 will come no more71 ,resided ,sir ,john ,barleycorn1 ,an ancient ,briton1 nobly born1 ,with ,mrs4 ,hop--a well-met pair1 ,for he was rich1 and she was fair4 ,yet they--like other married ,folke1 ,when their past vows they can't revoke-- ,were opposite in disposition1 ,and quarrell'd without intermission2 ,for ,he alone produc'd the ,sweets1 ,which ,she1 with ,bitters only1 meets6 #cgb ,howe'er by dint of perseverance1 ,by gentle conjugal endearance1 ,the ,sweets predominating most1 ,in strength excelling1 rul'd the roast2 ,whilst she1 obedient1 did her duty-- ,that greatest ornament of beauty4 ,her ,bitters1 thus by him controll'd1 ,their wholesome properties unfold1 ,and give to him superior pow'rs-- ,superior charms for social hours2 ,as ,beauty1 with persuasive tongue1 ,tempers the mind1 by passion wrung4 ,at length1 from this domestic ,pair1 ,was born a well-known ,son and ,heir2 ,whose deeds o'er half the world are fam'd1 ,by ,britons1 ,master ,porter1 nam'd4 ,meux's great vat then contained about #c1eee barrels1 and was #bb ft4 high4 ,in ,october1 #ahad1 owing to the defective state of its hoops1 it burst1 and the results were most disastrous4 ,the brewery in the ,tottenham ,court ,road was at that time hemmed in by miserable tenements1 which were crowded by people of the poorer classes4 ,some of these houses were simply flooded with porter1 two or three collapsed1 and no less than eight persons met their death1 either in the ruins or from drowning1 the fumes of the porter1 or by drunkenness4 ,at the inquest the jury returned the verdict3 8,death by ,casualty40 ,seven huge vats--the largest holding #ae1jjj barrels--now take the place of the one that burst4 ,the ,times of ,april #a1 #aghe1 says1 8,there is a cask now building at ,messrs4 ,meux ,co4's brewery in ,liquorpond ,street1 ,gray's ,inn ,lane1 the size of which exceeds all credibility1 being designed to hold #bj1jjj barrels of porter2 the whole expense attending the same will be upwards of #aj1jjj40 ,about this time the ,london porter brewers vied with each other in building large vats1 a practice they have now discontinued4 99 99 99 99 99 ,it would be difficult to imagine a liquor more suitable for the working classes than good porter--taken in moderation1 of course4 ,not only does it afford the slight stimulant which1 in another place1 we have shown to be beneficial to the human body1 but it also contains much #cgc nutritive matter1 both organic and inorganic1 together with saccharine4 ,the old writer who spoke of ale as being meat1 drink1 and clothing probably had no highly scientific knowledge of the chemical properties of the liquor he was extolling1 but the statement--based1 no doubt1 on experience--can be called an exaggerated one4 ,very satisfactory is it to know that in ,ireland porter is steadily displacing whisky4 ,even in the western portions of the island1 the younger generation--excepting1 perhaps1 on holidays1 at fairs1 and on other festive occasions--are taking most kindly to their 8porther40 ,it will be a happy thing for that country when 8porther0 shall have altogether displaced poteen4 ,the whisky sold at threepence for each small wine-glassful in most of the country spirit shops in ,ireland1 and always taken neat by the natives1 is of a most injurious character1 being new1 and consequently containing much fusel oil4 ,far be it from us to say a word against good1 well-matured whisky1 which1 taken in moderation1 is a most wholesome drink2 but1 good or bad1 it is not the drink for working men who require a more sustaining and less expensive liquor4 ,what have the total abstainers to suggest8 ,water1 the diffuser of epidemics1 and hardly ever obtained pure by the labouring classes2 tea1 which is almost as injurious as spirits to the nervous system1 which lacks nutritive properties1 and which is by no means an inexpensive liquor2 coffee and cocoa1 both hot drinks and most unsuitable to slake the thirst of a labouring man2 various effervescing drinks1 all more or less injurious to the digestive organs1 when taken habitually1 and of whose composition no man hath knowledge1 save the makers1 and temperance wines1 certain vendors of which were not long back prosecuted for attempting to defraud the revenue1 when this abstainer's tipple was found to contain some twenty per cent4 of alcohol4 ,one liquor1 alone1 have the teetotal party invented1 which is nourishing1 inexpensive1 and wholesome4 ,this we may term oatmeal mash1 or cold comfort4 ,it consists of scalded oatmeal1 water1 and some flavouring matter4 ,for harvesters working in the almost tropical heat of an ,august sun1 this is1 no doubt1 a wholesome drink1 but it can hardly be called palatable4 ,as a matter of fact1 no non-alcoholic substitute has been put forward by the teetotal party which is in the least likely to take the place of porter2 and until such beverage is invented--an event which we feel perfectly certain will never come to pass--the porter and stout brewers of the ,united ,kingdom will have every opportunity of continuing to confer on the working classes the benefits of cheap and wholesome liquor4 #cgd ,one temperance drink we had almost overlooked--herb-beer4 ,in the ,house of ,commons1 on ,may #f1 #ahhf1 ,mr4 ,fletcher asked the ,chancellor of the ,exchequer why the ,excise officers had interfered with the sale of herb-beer1 a non-intoxicating beverage4 ,to this the ,chancellor of the ,exchequer replied1 that the ,inland ,revenue did not interfere with any liquors which contained less than three degrees of proof spirit1 though legally no beer could be brewed under the name of herb-beer which had more than two degrees of alcohol4 ,some of these non-intoxicating liquors1 sold as temperance drinks1 had been found to be of considerably greater strength than ,london porter4 ,for the protection of the revenue it was necessary--and so on4 ,comment is needless4 ,as illustrative of the sustaining powers of brown beer1 we may mention an instance which recently came under our notice4 ,a valuable horse belonging to a member of the firm of ,truman1 ,hanbury1 ,buxton1 ,co4 had a serious attack of influenza1 with slight congestion of the lungs1 and was so ill that it could take no food1 and was evidently dying4 ,as a last resource it was offered stout1 which it drank greedily4 ,for two weeks it entirely subsisted on this novel diet1 and at the end of that time the bad symptoms had almost disappeared4 ,the horse subsequently recovered4 ,the name ,stout was used originally to signify strong or stout beer4 ,this excellent brown beer only differs from ,porter in being brewed of greater strength and with a greater proportion of hops4 ,swift thus mentions the liquor3-- 8,should but the ,muse descending drop ,a slice of bread and mutton chop1 ,or kindly when his credit's out1 ,surprise him with a pint of stout2 ,exalted in his mighty mind ,he flies and leaves his stars#fi behind40 #fi ,cf4 ,horace's 8,sublimi feriam sidera vertice10 which was once construed by an ingenuous school-boy1 8,i will whip the stars with my sublime top 6 60 ,many actors1 actresses and singers imbibe largely of porter1 both for its excellent effects upon the voice and for its restorative and sustaining powers4 ,fanny ,kemble used frequently to apply herself to a vulgar pewter pot of stout in the green room both during and after her #cge performances4 ,peg ,woffington was president of the ,beefsteak ,club1 then held in the ,covent ,garden ,theatre2 and after she had been pourtraying on the stage 8,the fair resemblance of a martyr ,queen10 she might have been seen in the green room holding up a pot of porter1 and exclaiming in a tragic voice1 8,confusion to all order1 let liberty thrive40 ,macklin1 the actor1 who lived to be a centenarian1 was accustomed to drink considerable quantities of stout sweetened with sugar1 at the ,antelope1 in ,white ,hart ,yard1 ,covent ,garden4 ,porson used to breakfast on bread and cheese and a pot of porter4 ,a favourite mixture of modern ,londoners is known by the name of 8,cooper10 and consists of porter and stout in equal proportions4 ,the best account of the origin of this name is one which attributes it to a publican by the name of ,cooper1 who kept a house in ,broad ,street1 ,city1 opposite to where the ,excise ,office stood4 ,cooper was a jolly1 talkative host1 and associated a good deal with his customers--principally officers of the ,excise1 bankers' and merchants' clerks1 and men of that stamp4 ,his guests found on bits of broken plates1 pieces of beef steak and mutton chops already priced with paper labels4 ,these they had but to choose1 mark their name on the ticket1 and carry to the cook at the gridiron1 which was in the room in which they dined4 ,cooper drank and recommended a mixture of porter and stout1 the fame of which spread very rapidly4 ,the combination became the fashion in the ,city1 and finally it was brewed entire4 ,an equally plausible but more invidious derivation of the name is given by ,andrew ,halliday in his ,every-,day ,papers4 ,his account is that 8,some brewers who are jealous for the reputation of their beer employ a traveller1 who visits the houses periodically1 and tastes the various beers1 to see that they are not reduced too much4 ,this functionary is called the #8,broad ,cooper4' ,when the ,broad ,cooper looks in upon ,mr4 ,noggins1 and wants to taste the porter1 and the porter is below the mark1 ,mr4 ,noggins slyly draws a dash of stout into it2 and this trick is so common1 and so well known1 that a mixture of stout and porter has come to be known to the public and asked for by the name of #8,cooper4'0 ,it has been well observed that 8,porter-drinking needs but a beginning3 whenever the habit has once been acquired1 it is sure to be kept up4 ,london is a name pretty widely known in the world2 some nations know it for one thing1 and some for another4 ,but all nations know that ,london is the place where porter was invented3 and ,jews1 ,turks1 ,germans1 ,negroes1 ,persians1 ,chinese1 ,new ,zealanders1 #cgf ,esquimaux1 copper ,indians1 ,yankees and ,spanish ,americans1 are united in one feeling of respect for the native city of the most universally favourite liquor the world has ever known40 ,when the ,persian ambassador left ,england some years ago1 many of his suite shed tears4 ,one of them1 struck with the security and peace of an ,englishman's life1 when compared to a ,persian's1 declared that his highest ideal of ,paradise was to live at ,chelsea ,hospital1 where for the rest of his life he would willingly sit under the trees and drink as much porter as he could get4 ,much as porter's praises have been sung1 one depreciatory remark is recorded to have been made by the late ,judge ,maule4 8,why do you1 brother ,maule1 drink so much stout80 he was asked by one of the judges4 8,to bring my intellect down to the level of the rest of the bench10 was the not very flattering reply4 ,it may be mentioned that ,judge ,maule's joke was not a new one1 for ,l',estrange has it thus3 8,one ask't ,sir ,john ,millesent how he did so conforme himself to the grave justices his brothers when they mette4 #8,why1 in faith1' sayes he1 #8,i have no way but to drink myselfe downe to the capacitie of the ,bench4'0 ,a song well known in the early part of the century is much heartier1 and redounds with patriotic sentiment3-- ,a ,,pot ,,of ,,porter ,,oh6 ,when to ,old ,england ,i came home1 ,fal lal1 fal lal la 6 ,what joy to see the tankard foam ,fal lal1 fal lal la 6 ,when treading ,london's well-known ground1 ,if e'er ,i feel my spirits tire1 ,i haul my sail and look up around ,in search of ,whitbread's best entire4 ,i spy the name of ,calvert1 ,of ,curtis1 ,cox1 and ,co42 ,i give a cheer and bawl for't1 8,a pot of ,porter1 ho 60 ,when to ,old ,england ,i come home1 ,what joy to see the tankard foam 6 ,with heart so light and frolic high1 ,i drink it off to liberty 6 #cgg ,where wine or water can be found ,fal lal1 fal lal la 6 ,i've travell'd far the world around1 ,fal lal1 fal lal la 6 ,again ,i hope before ,i die1 ,of ,england's can the taste to try2 ,for many a league ,i'd go about ,to take a draught of ,gifford's stout2 ,i spy the name of ,truman1 ,of ,maddox1 ,meux1 and ,co42 ,the sight makes me a new man1-- 8,a pot of porter1 ho 60 ,when to ,old ,england ,i come home1 ,what joy to see the tankard foam 6 ,with heart so light and frolic high1 ,i drink it off to liberty4 ,illustration #cgh ,illustration ,chapter ,,xiv4 ,then hail1 thou big and foaming bowl1 ,hail1 constant idol of my soul2 ,how laughingly the bubbles ride ,upon thy rich and sparkling tide4 ,brasenose ,college ,shrovetide ,verses4 ,this1 ,i tell you1 is our jolly wassel1 ,and for twelfth-night more meet too4 ,christmas ,masque 7,jonson74 ,,beverages ,,compounded ,,of ,,ale ,,or ,,beer ,,with ,a ,,number ,,of ,,receipts4--,,ancient ,,drinking ,,vessels4--,,various ,,uses ,,of ,,ale ,,other ,,than ,,as ,a ,,drink4 ,very few people1 when warming themselves in the winter months with ,mulled ,ale1 know that they are quaffing a direct descendant of that famous liquor known to our forefathers as the ,wassail-,bowl1 and near akin to ,lambs-,wool1 of which ,herrick wrote in his ,twelfth ,night3-- ,next crowne the bowle full ,with gentle ,lambs wooll1 ,adde sugare nutmeg and ginger1 ,with store of ale too ,and thus ye must doe1 ,to make the ,wassaile a swinger4 ,a beverage of still greater antiquity1 but certainly a family connection1 is ,bragget or ,bragot1 which is1 or was1 until quite recently1 drunk in ,lancashire4 ,the word1 according to the writer of ,cups and their #cgi ,customs1 is of ,northland origin1 and derived from 8,braga10 the name of a hero1 one of the mythological ,gods of the ,edda4 ,in its ,welsh form of ,bragawd1 the drink is mentioned in a very ancient poem1 ,the ,hirlas or ,drinking ,horn of ,owen1 which has been thus rendered into ,english3-- ,cup-bearer1 when ,i want thee most1 ,with duteous patience mind thy post1 ,reach me the horn1 ,i know its power ,acknowledged in the social hour2 ,hirlas1 thy contents to drain1 ,i feel a longing1 e'en to pain2 ,pride of feasts1 profound and blue1 ,of the ninths wave's azure hue1 ,the drink of heroes formed to hold1 ,with art enrich'd and lid of gold 6 ,fill it with bragawd to the brink1 ,confidence inspiring drink2-- ,we have been at no little trouble to discover the nature of the drink called bragot1 bragawd1 c41 and have come to the conclusion that the composition of the beverages bearing those names varied considerably4 ,to define ,bragot with any degree of preciseness would be as difficult as to give an accurate definition of 8soup40 ,in the fourteenth century1 according to a ,,ms4 quoted in ,wright's ,provincial ,dialects1 8,bragotte0 was made from this receipt3-- 8,take to x galons of ale iij potell of fyne worte1 and iij quartis of hony1 and put thereto canell 7cinnamon7 oz3 iiij1 peper schort or long oz3 iiij1 galingale 7a sort of rush7 oz3 i1 and clowys 7cloves7 oz i1 and gingiver oz ij40 ,halliwell tells us that ,bragot was a kind of beverage formerly esteemed in ,wales and the ,west of ,england1 composed of wort1 sugar and spices4 ,it was customary to drink it in some parts of the country on ,mothering ,sunday4 ,bracket must at one time have been a liquor in common use in ,london1 for in ,mary's reign the constables were ordered to make weekly search at the houses of the ,brewers and 8typlers10 to see whether they sold any ale or beer or bracket above d4 a quart without their houses1 and above d4 the 8thyrdendeale0#gj within4 #chj #gj ,the thyrdendale was a measure containing a pint and a half4 ,in the ,haven of ,health 7#aehd7 are directions for making bragot1 which are similar to those in the fourteenth-century receipt4 8,take three or four galons of good ale or more as you please1 two dayes or three after it is cleansed1 and put it into a pot by itselfe1 then draw forth a pottle thereof and put to it a quart of good ,english hony1 and sett them over the fire in a vessell1 and let them boyle faire and softly1 and alwayes as any froth ariseth skumme it away1 and so clarifie it1 and when it is well clarified1 take it off the fire and let it coole1 and put thereto of peper a pennyworth1 cloves1 mace1 ginger1 nutmegs1 cinnamon1 of each two pennyworth1 stir them well together and sett them over the fire to boyle againe awhile1 then being milke-warme put it to the rest and stirre all together1 and let it stand two or three daies1 and put barme upon it and drinke it at your pleasure40 ,harrison 7#aegh71 in his ,preface to ,holinshed's ,chronicles1 relates that his wife made a composition called ,brakwoort1 which seems to have been rather used for flavouring ale than as a distinct beverage4 ,it contained no honey4 ,in ,oxford ,nightcaps metheglin1 mead1 and ,bragon1 or ,bragget1 are all mentioned as being compounded of honey4 ,idromellum1 which by-the-by did not always contain honey1#ga was sometimes spoken of as ,bragget4 ,in ,chaucer's ,miller's ,tale is mention of ,braket3-- 8,hire mouth was sweete as braket or the meth40 #ga ,see p4 #ec4 ,the ,wassail ,bowl1 according to ,warton1 was the 8,bowl0 referred to in the ,midsummer ,night's ,dream3-- ,sometimes lurk ,i in a gossip's bowl1 ,in very likeness of a roasted crab1 ,and when she drinks1 against her lips ,i bob1 ,and on her wither'd dewlap pour the ale4 ,in ,hamlet our great dramatist uses the word 8wassail03-- ,the ,king doth wake to-night1 and takes his rouse1 ,keeps wassail1 and the swaggering upspring reels4 ,the chief ingredients of the ancient ,wassail ,bowl were1 without doubt1 strong ale1 sugar1 spices1 and roasted apples4 ,the following #cha receipt--the best of some half-dozen before us--is the one adopted at ,jesus ,college1 ,oxford1 where1 on the festival of ,st4 ,david1 an immense silver-gilt bowl1 which was presented to the college by ,sir ,watkin ,w4 ,wynne in #agcb1 is partly filled with this admirable composition1 and passed round the festive board4 ,into the bowl is first placed half a pound of ,lisbon sugar1 on which is poured one pint of warm beer2 a little nutmeg and ginger are then grated over the mixture1 and four glasses of sherry and five pints of beer are added to it4 ,it is then stirred1 sweetened to taste1 and allowed to stand covered up for two or three hours4 ,three or four slices of thin toast are then floated on the creaming mixture1 and the wassail bowl is ready4 ,sometimes a couple or three slices of lemon and a few lumps of sugar rubbed on the peeling of a lemon are introduced4 ,the slang term at ,oxford for this beverage is 8,swig40 ,in another receipt it is said that the liquor1 when mixed1 should be made hot 7but not boiled71 and the liquid poured over roasted apples laid in the bowl4 ,in some parts of the kingdom there are1 it is to be hoped1 some few persons who still adhere to the ancient custom of keeping ,wassail on ,twelfth ,night and ,christmas ,eve2 and these1 if they are orthodox1 should ignore the toast of the ,oxford receipt in favour of the roasted crab4 ,not that there is much virtue in either apple or toast1 the excellence of the drink being due to the spices1 sack1 and quality of the ale4 ,it can easily be understood that when ale was for the most part brewed without hops1 and consequently rather insipid in taste1 many people would have a craving for something more highly flavoured1 and would put nutmeg1 ginger and other spices into their liquor4 ,it is not unlikely that the introduction of hops was the cause which ultimately led to beer cups going out of fashion4 ,at the present day they are but rarely compounded1 even at the ,universities4 ,from experience we can say that1 if skilfully made1 they are excellent1 and some of the receipts given in this chapter are well worthy a trial4 ,lambs-wool is a variety of the ,wassail ,bowl4 ,formerly the first day of ,november was dedicated to the angel presiding over fruits1 seeds1 c41 and was called ,la ,mas ubal 7,the ,day of the ,apple-fruit71 pronounced lamasool4 ,according to ,vallancey these words soon became corrupted by the country people into ,lambswool1 the liquor appropriate to the day bearing the same name4 ,to make this beverage1 mix the pulp of half a dozen roasted apples with some raw sugar1 a grated nutmeg1 and a small quantity of ginger2 add one quart of strong ale made moderately warm4 ,stir the whole #chb together1 and1 if sweet enough1 it is fit for use4 ,this mixture is sometimes served up in a bowl1 with sweet cakes floating in it4 ,in ,ireland ,lambswool used to be a constant ingredient at the merry-makings on ,holy ,eve1 or the evening before ,all ,saints' ,day1 and milk was sometimes substituted for the ale4 ,it is now rarely or never heard of in that country1 having been superseded by more ardent potations4 ,the ,miller of ,mansfield contains a reference to ,lambswool3-- ,doubt not1 then sayd the ,king1 my promist secresye3 ,the ,king shall never know more on't for mee4 ,a cupp of lambswool they dranke unto him then1 ,and to their bedds they past presentlie4 ,old writers frequently made allusion to the spicing of ale4 ,in ,chaucer's ,rime of ,sir ,thopas occur these lines3-- ,and ,notemuge to put in ale ,whether it be moist or stale-- and again1 in ,the ,knight of the ,burning ,pestle1 by ,beaumont and ,fletcher3-- ,nutmegs and ginger1 cinnamon and cloves1 ,and they gave me this jolly red nose4 ,the ale1 apparently1 had nothing to do with the colouration4 ,even the sublime ,milton condescended to make allusion to spiced ale in his ,l',allegro3-- ,till the livelong daylight fail ,then to the spicy nut-brown ale4 ,wither1 in ,abuses ,stript and ,whipt 7#afac71 says3-- ,will he will drinke1 yet but a draught at most1 ,that must be spiced with a nut-browne tost4 ,the last quotation is only one out of the many to be found in our literature having reference to the toast with which the spiced ale was so often crowned4 ,perhaps the most curious is one from ,greene's ,friar #chc ,bacon 7sixteenth century74 ,the ,devil and ,miles are conversing on the pleasures of ,hell1 whence they soon afterwards proceed4 8,faith 'tis a place10 says ,miles1 8,i have desired long to see2 have you not good tippling houses there8--,may not a man have a lusty fire there1 a pot of good ale1 a pair of cards1 a swinging piece of chalk1 and a brown toast that will clap a white waistcoat on a cup of good drink80 ,even in the last century toast and spices were not uncommonly put into ale4 ,warton1 in his ,panegyric on ,oxford ,ale1 wrote3-- ,my sober evening let the tankard bless ,with toast embrown'd1 and fragrant nutmeg fraught1 ,while the rich draught1 with oft-repeated whiffs1 ,tobacco mild improves4 ,the ,anglo-,saxon custom of drinking healths and pledging has been1 at any rate1 since the eighteenth century1 termed toasting4 ,in the twenty-fourth number of ,the ,tatler the word is connected with the toast put in ale cups4 ,this is probably correct1 though ,wedgewood considers it a corruption of stoss an6 knock 7glasses71 a ,german drinker's cry4 ,the explanation given in ,the ,tatler of the connection between the two meanings of the word 8toast0 is1 however1 open to question4 ,it runs thus3 8,it is said that while a celebrated beauty was indulging in her bath1 one of the crowd of admirers who surrounded her took a glass of the water in which the fair one was dabbling and drank her health to the company1 when a gay fellow offered to jump in1 saying1 #8,though he liked not the liquor1 he would have the toast4'0 ,in the reign of ,charles ,,ii4 ,earl ,rochester writes3-- ,make it so large that1 filled with ,sack ,up to the swelling brim1 ,vast toasts on the delicious lake1 ,like ships at sea1 may swim4 ,a very ancient composition was ale-brue1 called later ale-berry4 ,it was composed of ale boiled with spice1 sugar1 and sops of bread4 ,an old receipt 7#adbj7 for it is3-- ,alebrue thus make thou schalle ,with grotes1 safroune and good ale4 #chd ,ale-brue was perhaps originally merely a brew of ale1 but the word soon came to mean a peculiar beverage4 ,it is mentioned in ,the ,becon against ,swearing 7#aedc73 8,they would taste nothing1 no not so much as a poor ale-berry until they had slain ,paul10 and in ,boorde's ,dyetary1 8,ale brues1 caudelles and collesses0 are recommended for 8weke men and feble stomackes40 ,the word also occurs in ,the ,high and ,mightie ,commendation of the ,vertue of a ,pot of ,good ,ale3-- ,their ale-berries1 cawdles and possets each one1 ,and sullabubs made at the milking pail1 ,although they be many1 ,beer comes not in any ,but all are composed with a ,pot of ,good ,ale4 ,taylor1 in ,drinke and ,welscome1 says3 8,alesbury 7or ,aylesbury71 in ,buckinghamshire1 where the making of ,aleberries1 so excellent against ,hecticks1 was first invented40 ,this is probably only a punning allusion4 ,all who have been at ,city festivities have tasted the ,loving ,cup1 which1 so it is stated in ,cups and their ,customs1 is identical with the ,grace ,cup1 a beverage the drinking of which has been from time immemorial a great feature at ,corporation dinners both in ,london and elsewhere4 ,mr4 ,timbs1 in ,walks and ,talks about ,london1 says the ,loving ,cups are filled with 8a delicious composition immemorially termed sack1 consisting of sweetened and exquisitely flavoured white wine10 and ,will of ,malmsbury1 describing the customs of ,glastonbury soon after the ,conquest1 says that on certain occasions the monks had 8mead in their cans1 and wine in their ,grace ,cup40 ,the ,oxford ,grace ,cup1 however1 according to ,oxford ,nightcaps 7#ahce71 contains ale4 ,the receipt runs thus3 8,extract the juice from the peeling of a lemon and cut the remainder into thin slices2 put it into a jug or bowl1 and pour on it three half pints of strong home-brewed beer and a bottle of mountain wine3 grate a nutmeg into it2 sweeten it to your taste2 stir it till the sugar is dissolved1 and then add three or four slices of bread toasted brown4 ,let it stand two hours1 and then strain it off into the ,grace ,cup40 ,many of the cups drunk by our forefathers had medicinal qualities attributed to them1 and did in fact1 often contain drugs of various descriptions4 ,the famous ,hypocras1 for instance1 was flavoured with an infusion of brandy1 pepper1 ginger1 cloves1 grains of paradise1 ambergris1 and musk4 ,a ,duchess of ,st4 ,albans has left us a receipt for making 8,the ,ale of health and strength10 which1 it sufficeth to say1 was a #che decoction of nearly all the herbs in the garden 7agreeable and otherwise7 boiled up in small beer4 ,old worthies1 when induced to give up their receipts for the public good1 described these drinks under the head of 8,kitchen physic40 8,i allowed him medicated broths1 ,posset ,ale and pearl julep10 writes ,wiseman in his book on surgery4 ,the name of the unfortunate ,sir ,walter ,raleigh is dear to ,britons in connection with tobacco and potatoes4 ,he has yet another claim on our sympathy as the inventor of an excellent receipt for ,sack ,posset1 which a high authority has declared to show full well the propriety of taste in its compounder4 ,it runs thus3--8,boil a quart of cream with quantum sufficit of sugar1 mace and nutmeg2 take half a pint of sack#gb0 7sherry71 8and the same quantity of ale1 and boil them well together1 adding sugar2 these being boiled separately are now to be added4 ,heat a pewter dish very hot1 and cover your basin with it1 and let it stand by the fire for two or three hours40 #gb ,there were several kinds of ,sack--,sherris1 ,malmsey1 c4 ,the word is derived from saco1 the skin in which ,spanish wines were imported4 8,we'll have a posset at the latter end of a sea-coal fire10 wrote ,shakspere4 ,a favourite drink of the seventeenth century was ,buttered ,ale4 ,it was composed of ale 7brewed without hops71 butter1 sugar and cinnamon4 ,in ,pepys' ,diary for ,december #eth1 #affb1 8a morning draught of buttered ale10 is mentioned4 ,there is also reference to it in ,the ,convivial ,songster3-- ,and now the merry spic'd bowls went round1 ,the gossips were void of shame too2 ,in ,butter'd ,ale the priest half drown'd1 ,demands the infant's name too4 ,at the beginning of the eighteenth century ,beer ,cups were much in vogue4 ,cuthbert ,bede specifies1 but does not describe1 cups bearing the following names3 ,humpty-dumpty1 ,clamber-clown1 ,hugmatee1 ,stick-back1 ,cock ,ale and ,knock-me-down1 and there were others called ,foxcomb1 ,stiffle1 ,blind ,pinneaux1 ,stephony and ,northdown4 ,cock ,ale was supposed to be1 and no doubt was1 a very strengthening and restorative compound4 ,the receipt runs thus3--8,take a cock of half a year old1 kill him and truss him well1 and put into a cask twelve gallons of ,ale to which add four pounds of raisins of the sun well picked1 stoned1 washed and dryed2 sliced ,dates1 half a pound2 nutmegs and mace two #chf ounces3 ,infuse the dates and spices in a quart of canary twenty-four hours1 then boil the cock in a manner to a jelly1 till a gallon of water is reduced to two quarts2 then press the body of him extremely well1 and put the liquor into the cask where the ,ale is1 with the spices and fruit1 adding a few blades of mace2 then put to it a pint of new ,ale yeast1 and let it work well for a day1 and1 in two days1 you may broach it for use or1 in hot weather1 the second day2 and if it proves too strong1 you may add more plain ,ale to palliate this restorative drink1 which contributes much to the invigorating of nature40 ,among the various beverages which good house-wives deemed it their duty to brew were ,elderberry ,beer1 or ,ebulon1 ,cowslip ,ale1 ,blackberry ,ale1 ,china ,ale and ,apricot ,ale4 ,their names indicate to a great extent their composition4 ,china ,ale1 however1 was not a term applied by wits to tea1 as has been suggested1 but was composed of ale flavoured with ,china root and bruised coriander seed1 which were tied up in a linen bag1 and left in the liquor until it had done working4 ,the ale then stood fourteen days1 and was afterwards bottled4 ,this was the proper ,china ,ale1 but1 according to an old cookery book1 8the common sort vended about ,town is nothing more 7at best7 than ten-shilling beer1 put up in small stone bottles1 with a little spice1 lemon peel1 and raisins or sugar40 ,ebulon1 which is said to have been preferred by some people to port1 was made thus3 ,in a hogshead of the first and strongest wort was boiled one bushel of ripe elderberries4 ,the wort was then strained and1 when cold1 worked 7i4e4 fermented7 in a hogshead 7not an open tun or tub74 ,having lain in cask for about a year it was bottled4 ,some persons added an infusion of hops by way of preservative and relish1 and some likewise hung a small bag of bruised spices in the vessel4 ,white ,ebulon was made with pale malt and white elderberries4 ,blackberry ,ale was composed of a strong wort made from two bushels of malt and lb4 hops4 ,to this was added the juice of a peck of ripe blackberries and a little yeast4 ,after fermentation the cask was stopped up close for six weeks1 the ale was then bottled1 and was fit to drink at the end of another fortnight4 ,in the ,london and ,county ,brewer 7#agdd71 is this receipt for ,cowslip ,ale3 ,take1 to a barrel of ale a bushel of the flowers of cowslip pick'd out of the husks1 and when your ale hath done working put them loose in the barrel without bruising4 ,let it stand a fortnight before you bottle it1 and1 when you bottle it1 put a lump of sugar in each bottle4 #chg ,the same book enlightens us as to the composition of 8an ale that will taste like ,apricot ,ale03--8,take to every gallon of ale one ounce and a half of wild carrot seed bruised a little1 and hang them in a leathern bag in your barrel until it is ready to drink1 which will be in three weeks2 then bottle it with a little sugar in every bottle40 ,egg ,ale was a somewhat remarkable composition1 and was doubtless highly nutritious4 ,to twelve gallons of ale was added the gravy of eight pounds of beef4 ,twelve eggs1 the gravy beef1 a pound of raisins1 oranges and spice1 were then placed in a linen bag and left in the barrel until the ale had ceased fermenting4 ,even then an addition was made in the shape of two quarts of ,malaga sack4 ,after three weeks in cask the ale was bottled1 a little sugar being added4 ,a monstrously potent liquor truly6 ,can this have been one of the cups with which 8our ancestors robust with liberal cups usher'd the morn08 ,coming now to beverages more familiar1 a word or two as to ,purl1 once1 and not so long ago either1 the common morning draught of ,londoners4 ,tom ,hood1 in ,the ,epping ,hunt1 thus puns upon the word3-- ,good lord1 to see the riders now1 ,thrown off with sudden whirl1 ,a score within the purling brook1 ,enjoy'd their 8early purl40 ,according to one receipt1 common ,purl contained the following ingredients3--,roman wormwood1 gentian root1 calamus aromaticus snake root1 horse radish1 dried orange peel1 juniper berries1 seeds or kernels of ,seville oranges1 all placed in beer1 and allowed to stand for some months4 ,the writer who gives this receipt says a pound or two of galingale improves it--as if anything could improve such a perfect combination6 ,according to an anecdote told of ,george ,,iii41 a somewhat simpler beverage in his day went by the name of ,purl4 ,one morning the ,king1 when visiting his stables1 heard one of his grooms say to another3 8,i don't care what you say1 ,robert1 but the man at the ,three ,tuns makes the best purl in ,windsor40 8,purl1 purl10 said the ,king2 8,robert1 what's ,purl80 ,the groom explaining that purl was hot beer with a dash of gin in it1 in fact1 the compound now known to 'bus conductors as 8dogsnose10 the ,king remarked3-- 8,yes1 yes2 ,i daresay very good drink2 but too strong for the morning2 never drink in the morning40 #chh ,a mixture of warmed ale and spirits is called ,hot-,pot in ,norfolk and ,suffolk1 and a similar compound1 to which is added sugar and lemon-peel1 used to be called ,ruddle4 ,a somewhat remote ancestor of ,purl1 ,dogsnose1 ,ruddle and other mixtures of ale or beer and spirits1 was ,hum1 to which ,ben ,jonson refers in ,the ,devil is an ,ass3-- --,carmen ,are got into the yellow starch and chimney sweepers ,to their tobacco1 and strong waters1 hum1 ,meath and ,obarni4 ,and it is also mentioned in ,beaumont and ,fletcher's ,wildgoose ,chase3 8,what a cold ,i have over my stomack2 would ,i'd some hum40 ,in ,shirley's ,wedding is a reference to hum glasses1 the small size being indicative of the potency of the liquor3-- ,they say that ,canary sack must dance again ,to the apothecarys1 and be sold ,for physic in hum glasses and thimbles4 ,flip1 once a popular drink1 and not altogether without its patrons in the present day1 is made in a variety of ways4 ,the following receipt is a good one4 ,place in a saucepan one quart of strong ale together with lumps of sugar which have been well rubbed over the rind of a lemon1 and a small piece of cinnamon4 ,take the mixture off the fire when boiling and add one glass of cold ale4 ,have ready in a jug the yolks of six or eight eggs well beaten up with powdered sugar and grated nutmeg4 ,pour the hot ale from the saucepan on to the eggs1 stirring them while so doing4 ,have another jug at hand and pour the mixture as swiftly as possible from one vessel to the other until a white froth appears1 when the flip is ready4 ,one or two wine glasses of gin or rum are often added4 ,this beverage made without spirits is sometimes called ,egg-hot1 and ,sailor's ,flip contains no ale4 ,a quart of ,flip is styled in the ,cook's ,oracle a 8,yard of ,flannel40 ,there is a tale told of a ,frenchman1 who1 stopping at an inn1 asked for ,jacob4 8,there's no such person here10 said the landlord4 8',tis not a person ,i want1 sare1 but de beer warmed with de poker40 8,well10 said mine host1 8that is flip40 #chi 8,ah6 yes10 exclaimed the ,frenchman1 8you have right2 ,i mean ,philip40 ,purl1 ,flip1 and ,dog's ,nose have been immortalised by ,dickens in his description of the ,six ,jolly ,fellowship ,porters4 ,the tap and parlour of this hostel were provided with 8comfortable fireside tin utensils1 like models of sugar-loaf hats1 made in that shape that they might1 with their pointed ends1 seek out for themselves glowing nooks in the depths of the red coals when they mulled your ale1 or heated for you those delectable drinks1 ,purl1 ,flip1 and ,dog's ,nose4 ,the first of these humming compounds was a speciality of the ,porters1 which1 through an inscription on its door-posts1 gently appealed to your feelings as #8,the ,early ,purl ,house4' ,for it would seem that ,purl must always be taken early2 though whether for any more distinctly stomachic reason than that1 as the early bird catches the worm1 so the early purl catches the customer1 cannot here be resolved40 ,of other receipts for beer cups there are many--too many1 indeed1 to be given here2 most of them differ from one another more in name than anything else4 ,brown ,betty1 an ,oxford cup1 deriving its name from its inventor1 a bedmaker1 is similar to the ,oxford ,wassail ,bowl4 ,the famous ,brasenose ,ale1 which is by no means a modern institution and is introduced at ,brasenose ,college on ,shrove ,tuesday1 immediately after dinner1 consists merely of ale sweetened with pounded sugar1 and served with roasted apples floating on it4 ,not all the liquors ,rome e'er had ,can beat our matchless ,beer2 ,apicius self had gone stark mad1 ,to taste such noble cheer4 ,thus wrote an undergraduate of ,brasenose ,ale4 ,a cup bearing the euphonious name of ,tewahdiddle had the reputation of being most excellent tipple4 ,it consists of a pint of beer1 a tablespoonful of brandy1 a teaspoonful of brown sugar1 a little grated nutmeg or ginger1 and a roll or very thinly-cut lemon-peel4 ,among beverages which hold a high place as cool summer drinks is ,the ,parting ,cup1 which is made thus3 ,place in a bowl two slices of very brown toast1 a little nutmeg1 a quart of mild ale1 and two-thirds of a bottle of sherry2 sweeten the liquor with syrup1 and immediately before drinking add a bottle of soda-water4 ,another good cup is made with two quarts of light draught beer1 the juice of five lemons1 and about three-quarters of a pound of sugar4 ,the mixture should then be #cij strained and allowed to stand for a short time4 ,if flat1 a little carbonate of soda should be added4 ,a very favourite summer drink at ,oxford was ,cold ,tankard2 and a certain fair damsel1 who was skilful in the preparation of this pleasant beverage1 was so honoured by the undergraduates that songs were written in her praise by the boating men and other frequenters of the riverside inn where she presided4 ,she was1 according to one poet1 cheerful1 blithe1 merry1 neat1 comely1 gay and obliging1 and above all she excelled in making ,cold ,tankard4 ,she looks up the oars1 and the old tavern scores1 ,and now and then cleans out a wherry2 ,the sails she can mend1 ,and the parlour attend1 ,for obliging's the ,maid of the ,ferry4 ,she serves in the bar1 and excels all by far ,in making ,cold ,tankard of ,perry2 ,how sweet then at eve1 ,with her leave to receive ,a kiss from the ,maid of the ,ferry4 ,though 8perry0 is mentioned in the verse1 ,cold ,tankard is also made with ,ale or ,cider4 ,the ingredients are the juice from the peeling of one lemon1 extracted by rubbing loaf sugar on it2 two lemons cut into thin slices2 the rind of one lemon cut thin1 a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar1 and a half pint of brandy4 ,to make the cup1 put the foregoing into a large jug1 mix them well together1 and add one quart of cold spring water4 ,grate a nutmeg into the jug1 add one pint of white wine1 and a quart of strong beer1 ale1 perry or cider1 sweeten the mixture to taste with capillaire or sugar1 put a handful of balm and the same quantity of borage in flower 7borago officinalis7 into it1 stalk downwards4 ,then put the jug containing this liquor into a tub of ice1 and when it has remained there one hour it is fit for use4 ,the balm and borage should be fresh gathered4 ,the use of ,borage in cups is very ancient1 and old writers have ascribed to the flower many virtues4 ,in ,evelyn's ,acetaria it is said 8to revive the hypochondriac1 and cheer the hard student40 ,in ,salmon's ,household ,companion 7#agaj7 ,borage is mentioned as one of the four cordial flowers2 8it comforts the heart1 cheers melancholy1 and revives the fainting spirits40 ,it may be doubted whether the comforting effects #cia of this inward application were rightly attributed to the borage alone4 ,a modern writer has gone so far as to say that he never found any benefit apparent from the presence of ,borage at ,lord ,mayor's feasts and other such festive gatherings1 beyond that of so stinging the noses of those other persons who have desired to drink deeply that the cup undrained has been4 ,though granting this undeniable advantage1 we cannot concur that ,borage possesses no other qualities1 for it gives to cups a peculiarly refreshing flavour which cannot be imitated4 ,in ,cups and their ,customs are three ,beer ,cups which have not yet been mentioned4 ,the first of these is ,copus ,cup4 ,it consists of two quarts of hot ale1 to which are added four wine glasses of brandy1 three wine glasses of noyau1 a pound of lump sugar1 the juice of one lemon1 a piece of toast1 a dozen cloves1 and a little nutmeg4 ,was it of such a cup as this that the lines were written8-- ,three cups of this a prudent man may take2 ,the first of these for constitution's sake1 ,the second to the girl he loves the best1 ,the third and last to lull him to his rest4 ,donaldson's ,beer ,cup is of a more simple and lighter character4 ,to a pint of ale is added the peel of half a lemon1 half a liquor-glass of noyau1 a bottle of seltzer-water1 a little nutmeg and sugar1 and some ice4 8,hungerford ,park0 is an excellent beverage1 and is especially suitable for shooting parties in hot weather4 ,to make it--cut into slices three good-flavoured apples1 which put into a jug2 add the peel and juice of one lemon1 a very little grated nutmeg1 three bottles of ginger-beer1 half a pint of sherry1 two and a quarter pints of good draught ale1 sweeten to taste with sifted loaf sugar1 stir a little to melt the sugar1 and let the jug stand in ice4 8,the addition of half a bottle of champagne makes it awfully good10 wrote a certain ,colonel ,b41 in the ,field1 a few years ago4 ,freemasons' ,cup1 which may be drank either hot or cold1 is of a very potent character1 and consists of a pint of ,scotch ale1 a similar quantity of mild beer1 half a pint of brandy1 a pint of sherry1 half a pound of loaf sugar1 and plenty of grated nutmeg4 ,freemasons must have strong heads4 ,it will1 no doubt1 have been noted ere this that between mulled ale and the majority of hot beer-cups the distinction is rather in name than composition1 and the various receipts for mulling ale so closely resemble the ,wassail ,bowl1 ,flip1 c41 that it is quite unnecessary to quote any of #cib them4 ,a word or two on cup making4 ,cups are easily made and easily marred4 ,all the ingredients must be of good quality1 and the vessels used sweet and clean4 ,everything required should be at hand before the mixing commences1 and that important process should proceed as quickly as possible4 ,few servants can be trusted to brew cups1 but if the matter is placed in their hands you cannot do better than caution them in terms similar to those addressed by ,dr4 ,king to his maid ,margaret3-- ,o ,peggy1 ,peggy1 when thou go'st to brew1 ,consider well what you're about to do2 ,be very wise--very sedately think ,that what you're going to make is--drink2 ,consider who must drink that drink1 and then ,what 'tis to have the praise of honest men2 ,then future ages shall of ,peggy tell1 ,the nymph who spiced the brewages so well4 ,yet two more beverages compounded of ale or beer1 and then this portion of the subject is completed4 ,first1 ,shandy ,gaff1 the very writing of which word brings to us visions of a shining river1 of shady backwaters1 of sunny days1 of two-handled tankards1 and of deep cool draughts well earned4 ,for the sake of the unfortunate few who are unacquainted with the beverage1 the receipt is given3 ,one pint of bitter beer1 one bottle of the old-fashioned ginger-beer mixed together1 and imbibed only on the hottest summer days1 after rowing4 ,why1 we cannot say2 but ,shandy ,gaff always seems to us out of place anywhere but on the river4 ,secondly and lastly--,mother-in-law1 which1 also1 to some of us may bring visions--but of another kind4 ,the drink of this name is composed of equal proportions of 8old and bitter40 ,if there is one season of the year more appropriate than another to hot beer-cups1 be they ,wassail ,bowls1 ,lambswool1 ,flip or ,mulled ,ale1 it is ,christmas4 ,edward ,moxon1 a poet who flourished about the commencement of this century1 presents in his ,christmas a charming picture of the merry circle gathered round the crackling yule log1 regaling themselves with mulled ale3-- ,right merry now the hours they pass1 ,fleeting thro' jocund pleasure's glass1 ,the yule-log too burns bright and clear1 ,auspicious of a happy year3 #cic ,while some with joke and some with tale1 ,but all with sweeter mulld ale1 ,pass gaily life's sweet stream along1 ,with interlude of ancient song-- ,and as each rosy cup they drain1 ,bounty replenishes again4 ,from the excellent beverages compounded of ale or beer1 concerning which so much has been said in this chapter1 let us turn to the cups1 flagons1 horns1 bowls and other vessels used by ale drinkers1 and in some of which these beverages were compounded4 8,come troll the jovial flagon1 ,come fill the bonny bowl1 ,come1 join in laughing sympathy ,of soul with kindred soul40 ,a few pages must suffice for a very short notice of this interesting part of our subject4 ,illustration3 ,anglo-,saxon ,tumblers4 ,mr4 ,sharon ,turner1 in his ,history of the ,anglo-,saxons1 gives many instances of the high estimation in which cups and drinking vessels were held by our ,teutonic forefathers4 ,even in very early times the precious metals were largely used in their construction1 and gold and silver cups are frequently the subjects of ,anglo-,saxon bequests4 ,in the old poem ,beowulf evidence may be found bearing upon this point4 ,one of the treasures in the ancient barrow guarded by the dragon ,grendel is 8,the solid cup1 the costly drinking vessel 7drync ft deore740 ,drinking vessels are frequently found in ,anglo-,saxon tombs4 ,the cups represented in the cut are made of glass1 and were found chiefly in barrows in ,kent4 ,they are of the 8tumbler0 species1 i4e41 on being filled they must be emptied at a draught1 and cannot be set down with any liquor in them4 ,mr4 ,wright suggests that the example to the left represents the 8twisted0 pattern mentioned in ,beowulf4 ,the savage custom1 observed both by the ,celts and ,saxons1 of drinking ale or mead from #cid a cup made out of the skull of a fallen foe1 has left a trace in medival times in the word 8scole10 signifying a cup or bowl1 and may probably still be recognised in the provincial word 8skillet10 which has the same meaning4 ,henry1 in his ,history of ,england1 relates that the ,celtic inhabitants of the ,western ,islands of ,scotland spoke in their poetical way of intoxicating liquors as 8the strength of the shell10 from the fact that they used shells as drinking vessels4 ,returning to the ,anglo-,saxons--besides metal and glass cups1 they used drinking horns1 and cups or bowls of wood1 and in some respects the horn was the most important of their drinking vessels4 ,investiture of lands was frequently made by the horn both among the ,saxons and ,danes4 ,the celebrated ,horn of ,ulphus1 kept in the ,sacristy of ,york ,minster1 was1 according to ,camden1 given to the ,cathedral by a noble ,dane named ,ulphus1 who1 when his sons quarrelled as to the succession to his estate1 cut short the dispute by repairing to the ,minster1 and there enfeoffed the ,cathedral with all his lands and revenues1 draining the horn before the high altar as a pledge and evidence of the gift4 ,the ,mercian ,king ,witlaf gave a drinking horn to the ,abbey of ,croyland 8that the elder monks may drink from it on feast days1 and remember the soul of the donor40 ,illustration3 ,cup found in the ,ruins of ,glastonbury ,abbey4 ,the peg-tankards of the ,anglo-,saxons have been already referred to in ,chapter ,v4 ,the ,glastonbury ,peg ,tankard1 illustrated in the cut1 is made of oak4 ,on the lid is a representation of the ,crucifixion1 and round the sides are the figures of the ,apostles4 ,it contains two quarts1 and is divided with eight pegs4 #cie ,while engaged on this subject of measured drinks1 it may also be mentioned that hoops were used as well as pegs by the old topers1 and hence the promise of ,jack ,cade that 8the three-hooped pot shall have ten hoops40 ,from the same fact is derived the old phrase1 8carousing the hunter's hoop10 signifying a prolonged drinking bout4 ,in certain parts of ,essex it has been customary1 until quite recently1 for topers to drink out a pot of ale in three equal draughts1 and with some ceremony2 the first draught was called neckum1 the second sinkum1 and the third swankum4 ,passing on to medival times1 ,we find1 as might have been expected1 a great increase of variety in the drinking vessels in common use4 ,the tankard1 which was one of the chief vessels used for ordinary drinking purposes1 was originally a vessel containing three gallons1 and used1 not to drink out of1 but to carry water in4 ,before ,sir ,hugh ,middleton brought the ,new ,river water into ,london1 the inhabitants were supplied by the tankard bearers4 ,the tankard was usually made of metal and the common use of pewter in the fifteenth century is shown by an extract from a letter of that period1 in which the recipient is reminded1 that 8,if ye be at home this ,christmas1 it were well done ye should do purvey a garnish or twain of pewter vessel40 ,the hanap was a kind of first cousin to the tankard1 it came down from ,saxon times1 and the name is found in old ,vocabularies under the form hnp4 ,the minds of the learned have been greatly exercised as to the connection of this word hanap with our word hamper1 and with the older form still found in the term1 the ,hanaper ,office4 ,we would humbly suggest that the old work of ,alexander ,neckam1 to which we have already had occasion to refer1 makes the matter tolerably clear4 ,the writer1 in describing the contents of a cellar1 mentions ciphi and cophini1 which of course mean cups and baskets4 ,an ancient annotator1 however1 gives us just the hint we want by writing in the ,,ms4 over the word ciphi 8anaps10 and over cophini 8anapers40 ,the hanap therefore was the cup1 the hanaper or hamper was the basket in which the cups were carried4 ,as an example of the number and value of the various drinking vessels in use1 the following extracts are given from an inventory of the goods of ,sir ,john ,fastolfe1 who died in #adei3 ,item j payre galon ,bottels of one sorte4 -- j payre of potell ,bottellys one sorte4 -- j nother potell ,bottell--,item #a payre ,quartletts of one sorte4 ,item iiij galon pottis of lether--,item iij ,pottelers of lether4 ,item j grete tankard4 #cif ,item ij grete and hoge botellis4 -- ij ,pottis of silver1 percell gilte and enameled with violetts and dayseys4 -- ij ,pottes of sylver1 of the facion of goods enamelyd on the toppys withe hys armys4 ,leather was a very usual material for drinking vessels in former times1 and black-jacks were to be seen in every village alehouse4 ,many such are still to be found in various parts of the country1 though they are not now used4 ,the venerable song the ,leather ,bottel is too well known to bear repetition1 but a verse or two of ,time's ,alterations or the ,old ,man's ,rehersal1 an ancient black-letter ballad1 may be given to show the common use of the leather drinking vessel3-- ,black jacks to every man ,were filled with wine and beer2 ,no pewter pot nor can ,in those days did appear3 ,good cheer in a nobleman's house ,was counted a seemly shew2 ,we wanted no brawn nor souse1 ,when this old cap was new4 ,we took not such delight ,in cups of silver wine2 ,none under the degree of a ,knight ,in plate drunk beer or wine3 ,now each mechanical man ,hath a cupboard of plate for a shew2 ,which was a rare thing then1 ,when this old cap was new4 ,taylor1 the water poet1 in his ,jack a ,lent1 makes mention of these vessels 7,a4,d4 #afcj73-- ------ nor of ,jacke ,dogge1 ,jack ,date1 ,jacke foole1 or ,jack a ,dandy1 ,i relate3 ,nor of ,black ,jacks at gentle ,buttry bars1 ,whose liquor often breeds household wars3 ,a variety of ,black ,jack was the ,bombard1 to which ,ben ,jonson refers in the lines from the ,masque of ,love ,restored4 8,with that #cig they knocked hypocrisy on the pate and made room for a bombard-man1 that brought bouge#gc for a country lady or two1 that fainted1 he said1 with fasting40 ,shakspere calls ,falstaff 8that swollen parcel or dropsies1 that huge bombard of sack40 8,baiting of bombard0 was a slang term for heavy drinking4 ,small ,jacks were also in use4 ,decker1 in his ,english ,villaines ,seven ,times ,pressed to ,death1 says3 8,in some places they have little leather ,jacks1 tip'd with silver1 and hung with small silver bells 7these are called ,gyngle-,boyes71 to ring peales of drunkennesse40 #gc bouge an allowance of meat and drink4 ,the ,black ,jack was frequently taken for a sign4 ,the house with that sign-board in ,clare ,market1 ,london1 was once the haunt of ,joe ,miller1 of comic fame1 and from the window of this tavern ,jack ,sheppard is said to have made a desperate leap1 in escaping from the clutches of ,jonathan ,wild and his myrmidons4 ,heywood1 in his ,philocothonista or ,drunkard ,opened1 ,dissected and ,anatomized 7#afce71 gives a very full list of the various drinking vessels in use in his day4 8,of drinking cups10 he says1 8divers and sundry sorts we have2 some of elme1 some of box1 some of maple1 some of holly1 etc4 ,mazers1 broad-mouthed dishes1 naggins1 whiskins1 piggins1 creuzes1 ale-bowles1 wassel-bowles1 court dishes1 tankards1 kannes1 from a pottle to a pint1 from a pint to a gill4 ,other bottles we have of leather1 but they are mostly used amongst the shepherds and harvest people of the countrey2 small jacks we have in many ale houses of the citie and suburbs tipt with silver3 black-jacks and bombards at the court2 which when the ,frenchmen first saw1 they reported at their return unto their country that the ,englishmen used to drink out of their bootes4 ,we have besides cups made of horns of beastes1 of cockernuts1 of goords1 of eggs of estriches2 others made of the shells of divers fishes brought from the ,indies and other places1 and shining like mother of pearle4 ,come to plate1 every tavern can afford you flat bowles1 french bowles1 prounet cups1 beare bowles1 beakers2 and private householders in the citie1 when they make a feast to entertain their friends1 can furnish their cupboards with flagons1 tankards1 beere cups1 wine bowles1 some white1 some percell guilt1 some guilt all over1 some with covers1 others without1 of sundry shapes and qualities40 ,during the religious feuds that raged so fearfully in ,holland1 the ,protestant party gave the name of ,bellarmines to the bearded jugs #cih they used4 ,this was done in ridicule of their opponent1 ,cardinal ,bellarmine4 ,the ,cardinal's figure was stout and squat1 and well suited the form of the stone beer-jug in use4 ,to make the resemblance more complete1 the ,cardinal's face with his great square-cut beard was placed in front of the jug1 which became known in ,england as the ,bellarmine or ,greybeard ,jug4 ,many fragments of these jugs1 of the reign of ,elizabeth and ,james the ,first1 have been exhumed1 and the jug entire is not uncommon4 ,ben ,jonson1 alluding to the ,greybeard1 says of a drunkard that 8the man with the beard has almost struck up his heels10 and an excellent description of this quaint old jug is to be found in ,cartwright's play ,the ,ordinary 7#afea73-- ----thou thing ,thy very looks like to some strutting hill1 ,o'ershadow'd with thy rough beard like a wood2 ,or like a larger jug that some men call ,a ,bellarmine1 but we a conscience1 ,wheron the tender hand of ,pagan workman ,over the proud ambitious head hath carved ,an idol large1 with beard episcopal4 ,the ,greybeard ,jug is still to be found in some parts of ,scotland1 and the following tale1 in which it figures1 was taken down some years ago from the conversation of a ,scotch ,church dignitary4 ,about #aggj there flourished a ,mrs4 ,balfour1 of ,denbog1 in the ,county of ,fife4 ,the nearest neighbour of ,denbog was a ,mr4 ,david ,paterson1 who had the character of being a good deal of a humorist4 ,one day1 when ,paterson came to the house1 he found ,mrs4 ,balfour engaged in one of her half-yearly brewings1 it being the custom in those days1 each ,march and ,october1 to make as much ale as would serve for the ensuing six months4 ,she was in a great pother about bottles1 her stock of which fell far short of the number required1 and she asked ,mr4 ,paterson if he could lend her any8 8,no10 said ,paterson1 8but ,i think ,i could bring you a few greybeards that would hold a good deal1 perhaps that would do40 ,the lady assented1 and appointed a day when he should come again and bring his greybeards with him4 ,on the proper day ,mr4 ,paterson made his appearance1 in ,mrs4 ,balfour's parlour4 8,well1 ,mr4 ,paterson1 have you brought your greybeards80 8,o1 yes1 they are down stairs waiting for you40 8,how many80 8,nae less than ten40 #cii 8,well ,i1 hope they are pretty large1 for really ,i find ,i have a great deal more ,ale than ,i have bottles for40 8,i'se warrant ye1 ,mem1 ilka ane o' them will hold twelve gallons40 8,o1 that will do extremely well40 ,down goes the lady4 8,i left them in the dining-room10 said ,paterson4 ,when the lady went in she found ten of the most bibulous old lairds of the ,north of ,fife4 ,she at once perceived the joke1 and entered into it4 ,after a hearty laugh had gone round1 she said she thought it would be as well to have dinner before filling the greybeards1 and it was accordingly arranged that the gentlemen should take a ramble and come in to dinner at two o'clock4 ,the extra ale is understood to have been duly disposed of4 ,closely allied to the ,greybeard was the ,toby ,philpot beer jug2 it was1 however1 a more elaborate article1 and represented the whole figure of a portly toper4 ,its origin is thus described in the humorous verses entitled ,toby ,philpot1 by ,francis ,fawkes3-- ,dear ,tom1 this brown jug1 which now foams with mild ale1 ,out of which ,i now drink to sweet ,nan of the ,vale1 ,was once ,toby ,philpot1 a thirsty old soul1 ,as e'er crack'd a bottle1 or fathom'd a bowl3 ,in bousing about1 'twas his pride to excel1 ,and amongst jolly topers he bore off the bell4 ,it chanc'd as in dog days he sat at his ease1 ,in his flower-woven arbour1 as gay as you please1 ,with his friend and a pipe1 puffing sorrow away1 ,and with honest ,old ,stingo sat soaking his clay1 ,his breath-doors of life on a sudden were shut1 ,and he died full as big as a ,dorchester ,butt4 ,his body when long in the ground it had lain1 ,and time into clay had dissolv'd it again1 ,a potter found out1 in its covert so snug1 ,and with part of ,fat ,toby he form'd this brown jug3 ,now sacred to friendship1 to mirth1 and mild ,ale-- ,so here's to my lovely sweet ,nan of the ,vale4 ,the wooden ale bowls used by the ,saxons continued common in ,england for many a century1 and constant reference to them is to be #djj found4 ,in the ,miller of ,mansfield ,king ,henry ,,ii4 is represented drinking out of a brown bowl3 ,this caus'd the ,king1 suddenlye1 to laugh most heartilye1 ,till the teares trickled fast downe from his eyes4 ,then to their supper were they set orderlye1 ,with hot bag puddings1 and good apply pyes2 ,nappy ale1 good and stale1 in a browne bowle1 ,which did about the board merrilye trowle4 ,at the time when the ,liber ,albus was composed 7#adai71 the gallons1 pottles and quarts used in the ,city of ,london were made of wood1 as may be judged from the fact that they are mentioned as shrinking if they were stamped when green4 ,dryden mentions the brown bowl as characteristic of the country life3-- ,the rich1 tir'd with continual feasts1 ,for change become their next poor tenant's guests2 ,drink heavy draughts of ,ale from plain brown bowls1 ,and snatch the homely ,rasher from the coals4 ,mr4 ,pepys records that on the #dth of ,january1 #affg1 he had company to dinner2 and 8at night to sup1 and then to cards1 and last of all to have a flagon of ale and apples1 drank out of a wood cup1 as a ,christmas draught1 which made all merry40 ,brown bowls were also the drinking vessels used in singing the old song1 ,the ,barley ,mow 8which cannot10 says ,bell 8be given in words1 it should be heard to be appreciated properly1 particularly with the ,west ,country dialect40 ,here's a health to the barley-mow1 my brave boys1 ,here's a health to the barley-mow6 ,we'll drink it out of the jolly brown bowl1 ,here's a health to the barley-mow6 ,chorus3--,here's a health to the barley-mow1 my brave boys1 ,here's a health to the barley-mow6 ,we'll drink it out of the nipperkin1 boys4 ,here's1 c4 and so it proceeds1 8quarter-pint10 8half-pint10 8pint10 8quart10 8pottle10 8gallon10 8half-anker10 8anker10 8half-hogshead10 8hogshead10 8pipe10 8well10 8river10 8ocean10 always in the third line repeating the whole of the previously-named 8measures0 backwards4 #dja ,among curious drinking vessels must be classed the ,wager or ,puzzle ,jugs1 which1 in the seventeenth century1 were great favourites at village inns4 ,some are to be seen in the ,south ,kensington ,museum4 ,these jugs had usually many spouts1 from most of which it was difficult to drink owing to perforations in the neck4 ,but a secret passage for the liquor up the hollow handle or through one spout or nozzle afforded a means of sucking out the contents1 the fingers of the drinker stopping up the other spouts and holes during the operation4 ,on many of these jugs were inscriptions1 such as-- ,from ,mother ,earth ,i claim my birth1 ,i'm made a joke to man1 ,but now ,i'm here1 fill'd with good beer ,come1 taste me if you can4 ,one more curious drinking vessel must be mentioned1 and then this short account of a subject upon which a large volume might well be written1 must close4 ,the 8,ale-yard0 has been described by a writer in ,notes and ,queries as 8a trumpet-shaped glass vessel1 exactly a yard in length1 the narrow end being closed1 and expanded into a large ball4 ,its internal capacity is little more than a pint1 and when filled with ale many a thirsty tyro has been challenged to empty it without taking away his mouth4 ,this is no easy task4 ,so long as the tube contains fluid it flows out smoothly1 but when air reaches the bulb it displaces the liquor with a splash1 startling the toper1 and compelling him involuntarily to withdraw his mouth by the rush of the cold liquid over his face and dress40 ,the ,ale-yard is known at ,eton under the name of the 8,long ,glass40 ,those boys who attain to a certain standing either as ,dry ,bobs or ,wet ,bobs 7i4e41 in the boats or at cricket7 are invited to attend 8,cellar10 which is held at 8,tap0 once a week during the summer term4 ,on attending the first time the novice has to 8floor the ,long ,glass0 7i4e41 to finish it without drawing breath74 ,many have to make several attempts1 and some never succeed4 ,it is1 no doubt1 generally supposed that the uses of ale other than as a drink are but few in number1 yet malt liquors have been applied to a variety of queer purposes4 ,from a letter of ,pope ,gregory to ,archbishop ,nidrosiensi1 of ,iceland1 it would seem that in the thirteenth century children were sometimes baptized in ale instead of water4 8,forasmuch as we learn from your letter that it has sometimes #djb happened that infants in your country have been baptized in ale owing to the lack of water in that region1 we return in answer that since the heart ought to be born again of water and the ,holy ,spirit1 those ought not to be considered as duly baptized who have been baptized in ale4 8,given at the ,lateran ,,viii4 ,idus ,julii1 anno ,,xv40 ,in another letter of an earlier date 7#abcg7 the use of ale in the administration of the ,eucharist was forbidden1 though ,nashe1 speaking of the ,icelanders in his ,terrors of the ,night 7#aeid71 says3 8,it is reported that the ,pope long since gave them a dispensation to receive the ,sacrament in ale1 since owing to their incessant frosts there1 no wine but was turned to red emagle0 7i4e41 enamel7 8as soone as euer it came amongst them40 ,to leave ,theology for the ,stable1 it is worth recording that it is alleged that during the ,king's progress through the country1 in ,norman times1 such was the extravagance and waste of the royal household that the servants even washed the horses' feet in ale4 ,grooms at the present day often mix ale with lampblack and oil for rubbing on the hoofs of horses4 ,possibly this was all that was done by the royal grooms4 ,ancient chroniclers are notoriously inaccurate4 ,none appreciate good ale more than anglers1 and this is clearly evidenced in the following receipt1 written by ,christopher ,north1 for staining gut or hair lines a pale watery green3--8,to a pint of strong ale add 7as soon as possible1 as it is so apt to evaporate when good7 half-a-pound of soot1 a small quantity of walnut leaves1 and a little powdered alum 7then drink the remaining pint of ale1 if you happen to have drawn a quart72 boil these materials for half or three-quarters of an hour1 and when the mixture is cold1 steep the gut or hair in it for ten or twelve hours40 ,yes1 good ale is apt to evaporate very quickly2 the moral is obvious4 ,dame ,juliana ,berners1 in ,the ,treatyse of ,fysshynge wyth an ,angle1 gives two receipts 8to coloure your lynes of here10 in which ale is used4 ,one consists of ale and alum1 the other of ale and soot4 ,when every county had its monasteries1 and every monastery its fish stew well stocked with fine carp for ,fridays' dinners1 the fattening of fish was a matter of no little importance4 ,in an old angling book it is stated that 8,raspins and ,chippins of ,bread1 or almost any scraps from the ,table1 placed under a cask of strong ,beer or ,ale1 in such a manner that the ,droppings of the ,liquor may fall among them1 is excellent ,food for ,carp4 ,two quarts of this is sufficient for thirty1 and if they are fed ,morning and ,evening it will be better than once a ,day only40 ,stilton #djc cheeses1 by the way1 treated in a similar manner to that directed for the 8,raspins10 are immensely improved in flavour and general excellence4 ,brewers' grains are greedily eaten by most kinds of freshwater fish1 and are used by anglers as groundbait for bream1 roach1 and carp in the ,eastern counties4 ,in a work entitled ,practical ,economy1 published in #ahba1 persons desirous of fattening their fowls quickly are recommended to feed them on ground-rice1 milk and sugar1 made into a paste1 and to let them drink beer4 ,the ladies who preside over the culinary department of our households do not1 so far as we know1 make any use of ale other than as a drink1 excepting the occasional use of beer in the preparation of ,welsh rare-bits4 ,from old cookery books1 however1 we gather that this has not always been the case4 ,beer mixed with brown sugar was a favourite sauce for pancakes2 red herrings were steeped in small beer before being broiled2 and catsup for sea stores was made principally of beer and vinegar1 a few mushrooms being added for conscience' sake4 ,then1 from the same source1 we find that beer has other domestic uses4 ,an admirable method of cleaning crape is to steep it in beer1 wring it gently1 and hang it out to dry2 stale beer formed1 and still forms1 the liquid part of the best blacking2 ale or beer plus elbow grease makes capital furniture polish2 and1 leaving the interior of the house1 beer grounds have been used for washing the outside of walls and houses covered with cement to harden the latter1 a change which they are said likewise to effect on bricks and mortar4 ,beer mixed with brown sugar or honey is usually rubbed over the interiors of hives in which swarms of bees are intended to be taken4 ,a bunch of mint and other sweet herbs forms the brush to spread the mixture4 ,not only is the sweet dressing agreeable to the taste and smell1 but the beer has doubtless a lulling and soporific effect on the bees1 and renders them less anxious to leave their new abode4 ,in the medicine books of the ,saxon ,leeches are references to the use of ale in the composition of various lotions4 ,ale and beer are1 indeed1 often prescribed by medical practitioners of the present day1 as will be seen by a perusal of ,chapter ,,xv4 ,the valuable properties of bitter beer as an incentive to appetite and a promoter of digestion1 and the nourishing qualities of the brown beers1 are too well known to need comment4 ,in many breweries large quantities of vinegar are manufactured from malt liquor4 ,this is an ancient practice1 for in the ,city of ,london #djd ,records of the time of ,good ,queen ,bess it is stated that officials were appointed to search the premises of the brewers for 8vyneagre1 bear-eagre and ale-eagre10 and to report to the ,common ,council touching the same4 ,the words 8beare-eagre0 and 8ale-eagre0 have now gone out of use1 and the acid liquid made from malt liquor is improperly called ,vinegar though in no way connected with the ,vine4 ,a use of ale1 which is additional rather than alternative to the common one1 is commemorated by the old proverb1 8,fair chieve good ale1 it makes folk speak what they think40 ,another such supplementary use1 but of a character less commendable1 is expressed in the ancient couplet3-- ,the ,good ,noppy ,ale of ,southwerk ,keeps many a goodwife from the ,kirk4 ,moore1 in his ,odes of ,anacreon1 sings the praise of ale as an incentive to literary labours3-- ,if with water you fill up your glasses1 ,you'll never write anything wise1 ,for ,ale is the horse of ,parnassus ,which hurries a bard to the skies4 ,the following curious lines1 copied from a ,,ms4 in the ,cottonian ,library1 indicate some other supplementary uses1 or to speak more correctly1 the unwished-for effects of the strong ale in which our forefathers indulged3-- ,doll thi1 doll1 doll1 doll this ale1 dole1 ,ale mak many a man to have a doly poll4 ,ale mak many a mane to styk at a brere2 ,ale mak many a mane to ly in the myere2 ,and ale mak many a mane to stombyl at a stone2 ,ale mak many a mane to dronken home2 ,and ale mak many a mane to brek his tone2 ,with doll4 ,ale mak many a mane to draw hys knyfe2 ,ale mak many a mane to bet hys wyf4 ,with doll4 ,ale mak many a mane to wet hys chekes1 99 99 99 99 99 #dje ,ale mak many a mane to stomble in the blokkis2 ,ale mak many a mane to mak hys hed have knokkes1 ,and ale mak many a mane to syt in the stokkes4 ,with doll4 ,ale mak many a mane to ryne over the falows2 ,ale mak a mane to swere by ,god and alhalows ,and ale mak many a mane to hang upon the galows4 ,with doll4 ,a strange use of good liquor was that which anciently prevailed of partly intoxicating criminals before execution4 ,the ladies of ,jerusalem used to provide such a potion1 consisting of frankincense and wine4 ,there is a curious similarity between this custom and the old practice of giving to condemned men on their way to ,tyburn ,tree1 a great bowl of ale as their last earthly refreshment4 ,it is stated in ,hone's ,year ,book that a court on the south side of the ,high ,street1 ,st4 ,giles'1 derives its name of ,bowl ,yard from the circumstance of criminals on their way to execution being presented with a bowl of ale at the ,hospital of ,st4 ,giles4 ,different maxims came ultimately to prevail in reference to this matter1 and we are told that ,lord ,ferrers1 when on his way to execution in #agfj1 for the murder of his land steward1 was denied his request for some wine and water1 the ,sheriff stating that he was sorry to be obliged to refuse his lordship1 but by recent regulations they were enjoined not to let prisoners drink when going to execution1 as great indecencies had been frequently committed in these cases1 through the criminals becoming intoxicated4 ,the old saying that the 8,saddler of ,bawtry was hanged for leaving his liquor10 arose from the following circumstances3 ,being sick at heart from his impending death1 the ,saddler refused the bowl of ale offered him on his way to the gallows4 ,one minute after the poor fellow's last struggle his reprieve arrived1 so that had he but tarried to drink the ale he had been saved4 ,very different was the fortune of the ,tinkler who had the good luck to meet ----,king ,jamie1 the first of our throne ,a pleasanter monarch sure never was known4 ,the little incident is best told in the words of the old ballad3-- ,as he 7the ,king7 was a hunting the swift fallow deer1 ,he dropped all his nobles2 and when he got clear1 #djf ,in hope of some pastime away he did ride ,till he came to an ale-house1 hard by a wood side4 ,and there with a ,tinkler he happened to meet1 ,and him in kind sort he so freely did greet3 8,pray thee1 good fellow1 what hast in thy jug1 ,which under thy arm thou dost lovingly hug80 8,by the mass60 quoth the ,tinkler1 8it's nappy brown ale1 ,and for to drink to thee1 friend1 ,i will not fail2 ,for although thy jacket looks gallant and fine1 ,i think my twopence as good as is thine40 8,by my soul6 honest fellow1 the truth thou has spoke10 ,and straight he sat down with the ,tinkler to joke2 ,they drank to the ,king and they pledged to each other2 ,who'd seen 'em had thought they were brother and brother4 ,in their merry conversation the ,tinkler remarks that the ,king is on the border chasing deer1 and that he would much like to see a ,king4 ,james immediately says he will show him one1 if he will but mount behind him4 ,this the ,tinkler does1 8with his sack1 his budget of leather and tools at his back40 ,doubts arising in his mind as to how he shall recognise the ,king1 ,james tells him1 8,thou'lt easily ken him when once thou art there2 ,the ,king will be covered1 his nobles all bare40 ,together the two ride through the merry greenwood1 and come upon the nobles1 when the ,tinkler again asks to be shown the ,king4 ,the ,king did with hearty good laughter reply1 8,by my soul6 my good fellow1 its thou or its ,i6 ,the rest are bare-headed1 uncovered all round40 ,with his bag and his budget he fell to the ground1 and beseeches mercy4 ,then says ,james-- 8,come tell me thy name80 8,i am ,john of the ,dale1 ,a mender of kettles1 a lover of ale40 8,rise up6 ,sir ,john1 ,i will honour thee here1 ,i make thee a ,knight of three thousand a year40 #djg 8,this was a good thing for the ,tinkler indeed10 writes the poet1 who concludes with the verse3-- ,sir ,john of the ,dale he has land1 he has fee1 ,at the ,court of the ,king who so happy as he8 ,yet still in his hall hangs the ,tinkler's old sack1 ,and the budget of tools which he bore at his back4 ,there are two instances on record of ale being used to extinguish fire4 ,one ,january in the seventeenth century occurred a devastating fire which burnt down the greater portion of the ,temple in the neighbourhood of ,pump ,court4 8,the night was bitterly cold10 writes ,mr4 ,jeafferson1 in ,law and ,lawyers1 8and the ,templars1 aroused from their beds to preserve life and property1 could not get an adequate supply of water from the ,thames1 which the unusual severity of the season had frozen4 ,in this difficulty they actually brought barrels of ale from the ,temple butteries1 and fed the engines with the malt liquor40 ,if the ale was old and potent the flare up thereof must have been great indeed4 ,in the year #afac the ,globe ,theatre was burnt down in consequence of the wadding from a cannon fired off during the performance of ,henry ,,viii41 setting fire to the thatched roof4 ,sir ,henry ,wotton1 in a letter to his nephew giving an account of the occurrence1 wrote3 8,one man had his breeches set on fire that perhaps had broiled him if he had not by the benefit of a provident wit put it out with bottle ale40 ,to what base uses may we return6 ,illustration #djh ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,constable ,,of ,,france4 8,dieu de batailes6 ,where have they this mettle8 4 4 4 can sodden water1 ,a drench for sur-rein'd jades1 their barley broth1 ,decoct their cold blood to such valiant heat80 ,king ,henry ,v41 ,act iii41 ,scene #e4 8,if every man is to forego his freedom of action because many make a licentious use of it1 ,i know not what is the value of any freedom40 ,j4 ,risdon ,bennett1 ,m4,d4 ,,old ,,medical ,,writers ,,on ,,ale4 -- ,,adulteration ,,of ,,ale4 -- ,,advantages ,,of ,,malt ,,liquors ,,to ,,labouring ,,classes4 -- ,,temperance versus ,,total ,,abstinence4 -- ,,anecdotes4 -- ,,gay',s ,,ballad4 ,champions of the so-called temperance cause1 have gone so far towards intemperance as to say that a moderate drinker is worse than a drunkard4 ,this absurd declaration stands self-condemned1 and without labouring thrice to slay the slain by disproving an assertion which carries upon its face the unmistakable marks of a suicide's death1 we propose in this chapter to prove beyond question1 from the works of ancient1 medival1 and modern writers1 that sound malt liquors possess valuable medicinal and restorative qualities1 and that their proper use is in nowise injurious to health4 ,in ,anglo-,saxon times ale was considered to be possessed of the highest medicinal virtues4 ,it is mentioned in the ,saxon ,leechdoms as an ingredient in many of the remedies therein prescribed1 and for the most serious as well as for the most trifling complaints4 ,in lung #dji disease a man is to 8withhold himself earnestly from sweetened ale10 to drink clear ale1 and in the wort of the clear ale 8boil young oak-rind and drink40 ,fever patients are recommended to drink during a period of thirty days an infusion of clear ale and wormwood1 githrife1 betony1 bishop-wort1 marrubium1 fen mint1 rosemary and other herbs4 ,for one 8fiend-sick0 the receipt runs thus3--,a number of herbs having been worked up in clear ale1 8sing seven masses over the worts1 add garlic and holy water and let him drink out of a church bell02 finally the lunatic is to give alms and pray for ,god's mercies4 ,another remedy for lunacy is much simpler3 8,take skin of a mere-swine 7porpoise71 work it into a whip1 swinge the man therewith1 soon he will be well1 ,amen40 ,another remarkable receipt runs thus3 8,take a mickle handfull of sedge and gladden1 put them into a pan1 pour a muckle bowlfull of ale upon them1 boil1 and then rub into the mixture twenty-five libcorns4 ,this is a good drink against the devil40 ,for less serious evils the receipts in these ,anglo-,saxon pharmacopias are numerous4 ,hiccup is cured thus3 ,take the root of jarrow1 pound it1 and put it into good beer1 and give it to the patient to sup lukewarm48 ,then ,i ween that it may be of good benefit to him either for hiccup or for any internal difficulty40 ,in ,anglo-,saxon veterinary surgery beer was also used4 8,take a little new ale and pour it into the mouth of each of the sheep2 and make them swallow it quickly2 that will do them good10 says the old ,lce-boc4 7i4e41 ,medicine book47 ,at the present day1 in some country places1 cows which have lost their milk soon after calving1 are given warm ale in which aniseed has been boiled1 and ale has often been given to horses with advantage4 ,not only as an inward1 but also as an outward application1 was ale recommended3 ,for pains in the knees1 woodwax and hedge-rife pounded and put into ale1 and used both inwardly and outwardly1 was the ,saxon remedy4 ,the foregoing receipts are sufficient to show the character of the medicine prescribed in ,saxon times4 ,at a later period ale still held its high position as a cure for most of the evils to which unfortunate humanity is subject4 ,in the eighth ,book of ,notable ,things1 a rare work1 supposed to have been written in the sixteenth century1 the following curious remedies are mentioned3-- ,no4 #de4 ,an excellent medicine and a noble restorative for man or woman that is brought very low with sickness4 ,take two pounds of dates and wash them clean in ,ale1 then cut them and take out the #daj stones and white skins1 then cut them small1 and beat them in a mortar1 till they begin to work like wax1 and then take a quart of ,clarified ,honey or ,sugar1 and half an ounce of the ,podder of ,long ,pepper1 as much of ,mace of ,cloves1 ,nutmegs1 and ,cinnamon1 of each one ,drachm1 as much of the ,powder of ,lignum ,aloes2 beat all the ,spices together and ,seeth the ,dates with the ,sugar or ,honey with an easie fire1 and let it seeth2 cast in thereto a little ,powder1 by little and little1 and stir it with a spatula of wood1 and so do until it come to an ,electuary1 and then eat every morning and evening thereof1 one ounce at a time1 and it will renew and restore again his ,complexion1 be he never so low brought4 ,this hath been proved1 and it hath done good to many a ,man and ,woman4 ,no4 #df4 ,a notable ,receipt for the black ,jaundice4 ,take a ,gallon of ,ale1 a ,pint of ,honey1 and two ,handfuls of ,red ,nettles1 and take a penny-worth or two of ,saffron1 and boil it in the ,ale1 the ,ale being first skimmed and then boil the ,hony and ,nettles therein all together and strain it well1 and every ,morning take a good ,draught thereof1 for the space of a fortnight4 ,for in that space 7,god willing7 it will clean and perfectly cure the black ,jaundice4 ,in the ,twelfth ,book is a receipt which was probably far more effective than most of the ancient remedies3-- ,no4 #di4 ,for a cough2 ,take a quart of ,ale and put a ,handful of ,red ,sage into it1 and boyl it half away2 strain it1 and put to the ,liquor a ,quarter of a pound of ,treacle1 drink it warm going to ,bed4 ,in ,ben ,jonson's ,alchemist1 of about the same date1 is a mention of ale used as medicine3-- ,yes1 faith1 she dwells in ,sea-coal lane1 did cure me ,with sodden ale1 and pellitory of the wall1 ,cost me but twopence4 ,we have before us an old pamphlet bearing the title 8,warme ,beere1 or a ,treatise wherein is declared by many reasons1 that ,beere so qualified is farre more wholesome than that which is drunk cold4 ,with a confutation of such objections that are made against it2 published for the preservation of ,health4 ,cambridge4 ,printed by ,r4 ,d4 for ,henry ,overton1 and are to be sold at his shop entering into ,pope's-,head ,alley out of ,lumbard ,street in ,london1 #afda40 #daa ,the following verses form an apt commencement to this whimsical old treatise3-- ,,in ,,commendation ,,of ,,warme ,,beere4 ,we care not what stern grandsires now can say1 ,since reason doth and ought to bear the sway4 ,vain grandames saysaws ne'er shall make me think1 ,that rotten teeth come most by warmed drink4 ,no1 grandsire1 no2 if you had us'd to warm ,your mornings draughts1 as ,i do1 farre less harme ,your raggie lungs had felt2 not half so soon1 ,for want of teeth to chew1 you'd us'd the spoon4 ,grandame1 be silent now1 if you be wise1 ,lest ,i betray your skinking niggardize3 ,i wot well you no physick ken1 nor yet ,the name and nature of the vitall heat4 ',twas more to save your fire1 and fear that ,i ,your pewter cups should melt or smokifie1 ,then skill or care of me1 which made you swear1 ,god wot1 and stamp to see me warm my beer4 ,though grandsire growl1 though grandame swear1 ,i hold ,that man unwise that drinks his liquor cold4 ,w4 ,b4 ,after giving instances of the value of warm beer as opposed to cold1 the author gives the following sage account of the reasons he hath for the faith that is in him3--8,when a man is thirstie1 there are two master-qualities which do predominate in the stomach1 namely heat and drinesse1 over their contraries1 cold and moisture4 ,when a man drinketh cold beer to quench his thirst1 he setteth all four qualities together by the ears in the stomach1 which do with all violence oppose one another and cause a great combustion in the stomach1 breeding many distempers therein4 ,for if heat get the mastery1 it causeth inflamation through the whole body1 and bringeth a man into fluxes and other diseases4 ,but hot beer prevents all these dangers1 and maketh friendship between all these enemies1 viz41 hot and cold1 wet and drie1 in the stomach2 because when the coldnesse of the beer is taken away by actuall heat1 and made as hot as the stomach1 then heat hath no opposite1 his enemie cold being taken away1 and there only remains these two enemies1 dry and wet in the stomach3 which heat laboureth to make friends4 ,when one is exceeding thirstie1 the beer being made hot and then drunk into the dry stomach1 it immediately quencheth #dab the thirst1 moistening and refreshing nature abundantly4 ,cold beer is very pleasant when extreme thirst is in the stomach2 but what more dangerous to the health4 ,many by drinking a cup of cold beer in extreme thirst1 have taken a surfet and killed themselves4 ,therefore we must not drink cold beer1 because it is pleasant1 but hot beer1 because it is profitable1 especially in the ,citie for such as have cold stomachs1 and inclining to a consumption4 ,i have known some that have been so farre gone in a consumption1 that none would think in reason they could live a week to an end3 their breath was short1 their stomach was gone1 and their strength failed1 so that they were not able to walk about the room without resting1 panting and blowing3 they drank many hot drinks and wines to heat their cold stomachs1 and cure their diseases1 especially sweet wines1 but all in vain3 for the more wine they drank to warm their stomachs1 the more they inflamed their livers1 by which means they grew worse and worse increasing their disease3 ,but when they did leave drinking all wine and betook themselves onely to the drinking of hot beer so hot as blood1 within a moneth1 their breath1 stomach and strength was so increased1 that they could walk about their garden with ease1 and within two moneths could walk four miles1 and within three moneths were perfectly made well as ever they were in their lives40 ,another curious old pamphlet of about the same period1 entitled ,panala ,alacatholica 7#afbc7 follows the text 8,that ale is a wholesome drinke contrary to many men's conceits10 and after a description of the way in which ale is spoilt in the brewing and rendered injurious we are told3 8,but let a neat huswife1 or canny ,alewright have the handling of good ,ingredients 7sweet ,maulte and wholesome water7 and you shall see and will say1 there is ,art in brewing1 7as in most actions7 and that many more1 even of those that ayme at brewing the ,best ,ale1 doe yet for all their supposed dexteritie1 misse the marke1 than hit upon the mysterie4 ,for you shall then have a neat cup of ,nappie ,ale 7right ,darbie1 not ,dagger ,ale1 though effectually animating7 well boyled1 desecated and cleared1 that it shall equall the best ,brewed ,beere in transparence1 please the most curious ,pallate with milde quicknesse of relish1 quench the thirst1 humect the inward parts1 helpe concoction and distribution of meate1 and by its moderate penetration1 much further the attractive power of the parts 7especially being rectified with that ,additament and ,vehiculum which the best ,alistra boyles with it2 to wit1 such a proportion of ,hop as gives not any the least tact of bitternesse to the ,pallate after it growes ,drinkable7 and being free from all those former foule #dac imputations1 doth by its succulencie much nourish and corroborate the ,corporall1 and comfort the ,animall powers40 ,a long description here follows of the manner in which ,panala1 a medicated ale1 is to be manufactured4 ,of its virtues our quaint author gives the following account3--8,this ,ale neither offends the ,eye with the loathed object of a muddie substance1 nor the smell with any ill vapour or favour1 nor the tast nor stomacke with disgust or ingrate relish1 but 'tis a pure1 cleere1 delicate1 and singular ,extract impregnated with the sincere spirits and vertuosities of excellent ,ingredients1 of a moderate temperature1 indifferently accommodated to every ,age1 ,sex1 and ,constitution1 and so familiar and pleasing to ,nature40 ,medicated ales of this nature were held in high estimation by our ancestors4 ,such was the celebrated ,dr4 ,butler's ale1 which held its sway for many generations2 the following receipt for this ale is given in the ,book of ,notable ,things3 8,take ,senna and ,polypedium each four ounces1 ,sarseperilla two ounces1 ,agrimony and ,maidenhair of each a small handful1 scurvy grass a quarter of a peck1 bruise them grossly in a stone mortar1 put them into a thin canvass bag1 and hang the bag in nine or ten gallons of ale2 when it is well worked and when it is three or four days old1 it is ripe enough to be drawn off and bottled1 or as you see fit40 ,this ale was sold at houses that had ,butler's head for a sign1 and we meet with further mention of it in a news-sheet of #affd3--8;,at ,tobias' ,coffee ,house1 in ,pye ,corner1 is sold the right drink1 called ,dr4 ,butler's ,ale1 it being the same that was sold by ,mr4 ,lansdale in ,newgate ,market4 ,it is an excellent stomach drink1 it helps digestion1 and dissolves congealed phlegm upon the lungs1 and is therefore good gainst colds1 coughs1 ptisical and consumptive distempers2 and being drunk in the evening1 it moderately fortifies nature1 causeth good rest and hugely corroborates the brain and memory40 ,a few years earlier than this ,thomas ,cogan was advocating in ,the ,haven of ,health 7#aehd71 beer for persons inclined to 8rewmes and gout40 ,such persons must avoid 8idleness1 surfet1 much wine and strong1 especially fasting1 and not condemn ,beere as hurtful in this respect which was so profitably invented by that worthy ,prince ,gambrinius1 anno #aghf years before the incarnation of our ,lord ,jesus ,christ1 as ,lanquette writeth in his chronicle40 ,the same writer gives a curious receipt for 8,buttered ,beere10 which is good for a cough or shortness of wind3--,take a quart or more of ,double ,beere and put to it a good piece of fresh butter1 sugar candie an ounce1 of liquerise in powder1 of ginger grated1 of each a dramme1 and #dad if you would have it strong1 put in as much long pepper and ,greynes1 let it boyle in the quart in the manner as you burne wine and who so will drink it1 let him drinke it as hot as hee may suffer4 ,some put in the yolke of an egge or two towards the latter end1 and so they make it more strengthfull48 ,the following year ,john ,taylor published in ,drinke and ,welcome many modes of application of ale in the various ills to which the flesh is heir4 ,he thus concludes his somewhat remarkable statements3--0,ale is universale1 and for ,vertue it stands allowable with the best recipes of the most antientest ,physisians2 and for its singular force in expulsion of poison is equall1 if not exceeding that rare antidote so seriously invented by the ,pontique ,king1 which from him 7till this time7 carries his name of ,mithridate4 ,and lastly1 not onely approved by a ,nationall ,assembly1 but more exemplarily remonstrated by the frequent use of the most knowing ,physisians1 who for the wonderfull force that it hath against all diseases of the ,lungs1 justly allow the name of a ,pulmonist to every ,alebrewer4 8,the further ,i seeke to goe the more unable ,i finde myselfe to expresse the wonders 7for so ,i may very well call them7 operated by ,ale for that ,i shall abruptly conclude1 in consideratione of mine owne insufficiency1 with the fagge-end of an old man's old will1 who gave a good somme of mony to a ,red-fac'd ,ale-drinker1 who plaid upon a ,pipe and ,tabor1 which was this3-- 8,to make your ,pipe and ,tabor keepe their sound1 ,and dye your ,crimson tincture more profound1 ,there growes no better medicine on the ground ,than ,aleano 7if it may be found7 ,to buy which drug ,i give a hundred pound40 ,prynne1 the author of the famous ,histrio-,mastix1 seldom dined2 every three or four hours he munched a manchet1 and refreshed his exhausted spirits with ale brought to him by his servant2 and when 8he was put into this road of writing10 as ,anthony ,wood telleth1 he fixed on 8a long quilted cap1 which came an inch over his eyes10 serving as a shade1 8and then hunger nor thirst did he experience1 save that of his voluminous pages40 ,evidence of the high regard in which ,english ale was held among foreign doctors in the seventeenth century may be gathered from an account given in ,hone's ,table ,book of how1 about #afbj some doctors and surgeons during their attendance on an ,english gentleman1 who was diseased at ,paris1 discoursed on wines and other #dae beverages2 and one physician1 who had been in ,england1 said the ,english had a drink which they call ,ale1 and which he thought the wholesomest liquor that could be drunk2 for whereas the body of man is supported by natural heat and radical moisture1 there is no drink conduceth more to the preservation of the one1 and the increase of the other1 than ,ale1 for1 while the ,englishmen drank only ale1 they were strong1 brawny1 able men1 and could draw an arrow an ell long2 but1 when they fell to wine and ,beer1 they are found to be much impaired in their strength and age4 ,english doctors would always1 it may be supposed1 give their approbation to the nut-brown ale4 ,there must have been some who even in the good old days leaned to the doctrines of the abstainers2 but such was the faith of our ancestors in the virtues of the national beverage1 that we may imagine the doctor's advice was disregarded and1 indeed1 was even set down to anything but an amiable motive4 ,this we may see from a verse of the old ballad1 ,nottingham ,ale3-- ,ye doctors1 who more execution have done ,with bolus and potion1 and powder and pill1 ,than hangman with halter1 and soldier with gun1 ,or miser with famine1 or lawyer with quill1 ,to dispatch us the quicker1 you forbid us malt liquor1 ,till our bodies grow thin1 and our faces look pale2 ,observe them who pleases1 what cures all diseases1 ,is a comforting dose of good ,nottingham ,ale4 ,the following receipt is quite gravely given by ,dr4 ,solas ,dodd1 in whose ,natural ,history of the ,herring 7#agec7 it may be found3 8,take the oil pressed out of fresh ,herrings1 a pint1 a boar's gall1 juices of henbane1 hemlock1 arsel1 lettuce1 and wild catmint1 each six ounces1 mix1 boil well1 and put into a glass vessel1 stoppered4 ,take three spoonfuls and put into a quart of warm ale1 and let the person to undergo any operation drink of this by an ounce at a time1 till he falls asleep1 which sleep he will continue the space of three or four hours1 and all that time he will be unsensible to anything done to him40 ,whether or no we have here an account of a genuine early ansthetic we are not prepared to say4 ,instances might be recorded without number of the restorative effects of ale in sickness1 and more particularly in fever cases where the patient has been brought very low1 and the loss of tissue has been great4 ,of these space only allows us to include a very few4 #daf ,when ,pulteney1 afterwards ,earl of ,bath1 lay prostrate with pleuritic fever1 the greatest physicians in the land found their skill avail nothing2 and all the statesman's alarmed friends got for expending seven hundred guineas in fees was the cold comfort that everything that could be done had been done1 and the case was hopeless4 ,whilst those gathered round the bedside of the supposed dying man listened for his last sigh1 he faintly murmured1 8,small beer1 small beer40 ,the doctors did not think it worth while to say nay1 and a half-gallon cup of small beer was put to the lips of the sick man1 who drained it to the dregs1 and then demanded another draught1 which he served in the same way3 then turning on his side1 he went off into a deep slumber1 attended with profuse perspiration1 and awoke a new man4#gd ,the beneficial effects of mild ale in fever is commemorated in an old poem1 ,small ,beer3-- ,oft known the deadly fever's flame1 ,by the scorch'd patient crav'd1 to tame4 #gd ,chambers's ,journal1 ,jan4 #bnd1 #ahge4 ,in ,sir ,j4 ,sinclair's ,statistical ,account1 an extraordinary case is related of a collier1 named ,hunter1 who suffered from chronic rheumatism or gout4 ,he had been confined to his bed for a year and a half1 having almost entirely lost the use of his limbs4 ,on ,handsel ,monday 7the first ,monday after ,new ,year's ,day7 some of his neighbours came to make merry with him4 ,though he could not rise1 yet he always took his share of the new ale1 as it passed round the company2 and1 in the end1 became much intoxicated4 ,the consequence was that he had the use of his limbs the next morning1 and was able to walk about4 ,he lived more than twenty years after this1 and never had the smallest return of his complaint4 ,this took place in #ageh4 ,an account of a cure1 in which1 no doubt1 faith helped the ale1 occurs in the ,merrie ,conceited ,jests of ,george ,peele1 gentleman1 sometime student at ,oxford 7,london1 #afjg74 8,riding on his way to ,oxford1 he stopped all night at ,mekham--,at supper1 he began to talk with the hostess1 who was a simple professor of ,chirurgerie1 and conceited therewith4--,peele observing her humour and conceit1 upheld all the strange cures she talked of and praised her1 with much flattery1 and promised on his return to teach her something that would do her no hurt--and added he was on his way to cure a gentleman in ,warwickshire1 who was in a consumption4 ,the hostess immediately #dag said there was a gentleman close by so ill with that complaint1 and proposed that ,peele should see him4 ,peele1 knowing as much of doctoring as of music1 declined2 but after much pressure1 and resisting as long as he could1 was fain to comply4 ,putting on a bold face he went to the gentleman1 his hostess praising him as a wonderful doctor4 ,after feeling the pulse1 c41 c41 he asked if they had a garden4 ,yes1 they had4 ,he then went there and cut from every plant1 flower1 herb and blossom2 boiling the results in ,ale1 straining and boiling again4 ,he told the patient to take some of this warm1 morning1 noon1 and night4 ,whether anything effective was in this ,herbal ,mixture1 or from the patient's fancy--in eight days after the patient was able to walk about apparently recovered--and so delighted that he put many pounds in ,peele's pocket40 ,a ,brown ale called ,stitch is mentioned in ,the ,london and ,county ,brewer of #agdd as having being of the greatest benefit in incipient consumption4 ,it was of the first running of the malt1 but of a greater length than is drawn out of the stout butt beer4 ,it had few hops in it4 ,instances of the advantage of good malt liquors in certain cases of consumption are very numerous4 ,mons4 ,frmy1 of the ,beaujon ,hospital1 in ,paris1 made a series of experiments with malt powder given in the form of a decoction1 and externally by means of baths4 ,the substance was tried on sixty-four subjects of well-marked phthisis2 but the results were trifling1 beyond a certain degree of temporary amelioration4 ,it was1 however1 of greater service in cases of chronic bronchitis1 early phthisis1 and chronic pulmonary catarrh2 its utility being very marked in this last affection4 ,in some parts of ,england it is a common practice for persons in consumption to procure wort 7that is an infusion of malt before the hops are boiled with it for making beer7 from the brewers1 and to drink half-a-pint of it daily2 and many have received great benefit from it4 ,the experiments of ,dr4 ,frmy verify the utility of the ,english practice4 ,of late years various preparations of malt have come to hold a very high place in popular estimation4 ,a first-rate remedy for a cough is made thus3 ,over half a bushel of pale ground malt pour as much hot1 but not boiling1 water as will just cover it4 ,in forty-eight hours drain off the liquor entirely1 but without squeezing the grains3 put the former into a large sweetmeat pan1 or saucepan1 that there may be room to boil as quick as possible1 without boiling over2 when it begins to thicken1 stir constantly4 ,it must be as thick as treacle4 ,the dose is a dessert-spoonful thrice a day4 ,this preparation has a very agreeable #dah flavour4 ,one of the most easily digested and most nourishing of foods for those minute but assertive1 atoms of humanity called babies1#ge is malt finely powdered2 and chemists keep many kinds of foods1 syrups1 lozenges1 c41 too numerous to mention1 all claiming their origin from ,sir ,john ,barleycorn4 #ge ,the author knows a malt-fed baby who never cries4--,verb4 ,sap4 ,among the many virtues of good ale1 that of promoting generosity should take a high place4 ,this peculiar effect is capitally illustrated in an anecdote of the ,rev4 ,michael ,hutchinson1 ,d4,d41 of ,derby4 8,the people10 writes ,hutton1 8to whom he applied for subscriptions 7the church was in need of repair7 were not able to keep their money2 it passed from their pockets to his own as if by magic4 ,whenever he could recollect a person likely to contribute to this desirable work he made no scruple to visit him at his own expense4 ,if a stranger passed through ,derby1 the ,doctor's bow and his rhetoric were employed in the service of the church4 ,his anxiety was urgent1 and his power so prevailing1 that he seldom failed of success4 ,when the waites fiddled at his door for a ,christmas box1 instead of sending them away with a solitary shilling1 he invited them in1 treated them with a tankard of ale1 and persuaded them out of a guinea40 ,malt liquor has long been regarded by eminent medical men as almost a specific against the scurvy1 that dread disease which in former times wrought such havoc amongst our brave tars4 ,sir ,gilbert ,blane1 ,m4,d41 records the following instance of the virtues of porter in this connection3-- 8,i was furnished10 he writes1 in his ,observations on the ,diseases of ,seamen1 8by ,dr4 ,clephane1 physician to the fleet at ,new ,york1 with the following fact as a strong proof of the excellence of this liquor3 ,in the beginning of the war two store ships1 called the ,tortoise and ,grampus1 sailed for ,america under the convoy of the ,ddalus frigate4 ,the ,grampus happened to be supplied with a sufficient quantity of porter to serve the whole passage1 which proved very long4 ,the other two ships were furnished with the common allowance of spirits4 ,the weather being unfavourable1 the passage drew out to fourteen weeks and1 upon their arrival at ,new ,york1 the ,ddalus sent to the hospital a hundred and twelve men2 the ,tortoise sixty-two2 the greater part of whom were in the last stage of the scurvy4 ,the ,grampus sent only thirteen1 none of whom had the scurvy40 #dai ,in the ,geographical ,society's ,journal 7vol4 ii4 p4 #bhf7 it is recorded that during a severe winter on the west coast of ,africa the crew of the ,etna suffered so much from scurvy that the least scratch had a tendency to become a dangerous wound4 ,capt4 ,belcher states that 8the only thing which appeared materially to check the disease was beer made of the essence of malt and hops2 and ,i feel satisfied that a general issue of this on the coast of ,africa would be very salutary1 and have the effect especially of keeping up the constitutions of men subjected to heavy labour in boats40 ,thomas ,trotter1 ,m4,d41 in his ,medicina ,nautica1 8an ,essay on the ,diseases of ,seamen1 comprehending the history of the health in ,his ,majesty's ,fleet under the command of ,richard ,earl ,howe1 ,admiral1 #agig10 states that in typhus cases he found porter1 where preferred by the patient1 more beneficial than wine4 ,during a low fever1 he 7the doctor7 was entirely supported by bottled beer1 of which he speaks very highly4 ,in his practice at ,haslar ,hospital he found bottled porter to be one of the best ingredients in the diet of a convalescent1 and never fail to strengthen them quickly for duty4 ,dr4 ,hodgkin1 writing on ,health1 says1 8,i can assert1 from well-proved experience that the invalid who has been reduced almost to extremity by severe or lingering illness1 finds in well-apportioned draughts of sound beer1 one of the most important helps for the recovery of his health1 his strength1 and his spirits40 ,dr4 ,paris1 who is not a recent authority1 but whose remarks on this subject are most cogent and bear the stamp of common sense1 asserts that 8the extractive matter furnished by the malt is highly nutritive2 and we accordingly find that those persons addicted to such potations are1 in general1 fat4 ,this fact is so generally admitted by all those who are skilled in the art of training1 that a quantity of ale is taken at every meal by the pugilist1 who is endeavouring to screw himself up to his fullest strength4 ,jackson1 the celebrated trainer1 affirms1 if any person accustomed to drink wine would but try malt liquor for a month1 he would find himself so much the better for it1 that he would soon take to the one1 and abandon the other 4 4 4 ,the addition of the hop increases the value of the liquor1 by the grateful stimulus which it imparts1 and in some measure redeems it from the vices with which it might otherwise be charged where a corresponding degree of exercise is not taken4 4 4 ,i regard its dismissal 7table or light beer7 from the tables of the great as a matter of regret1 for its slight but invigorating #dbj bitter is much better adapted to promote digestion than its more costly substitutes40 ,dr4 ,thomas ,inman1 in a paper read before the ,british ,medical ,association in #ahfb1 advances the proposition that nature has provided in the salivary glands1 the liver1 and the lungs of every mammal1 an apparatus 8for converting all food1 especially farinaceous1 into alcohol1 and he gives chemical reasons for believing that some such process actually does take place4 ,alcohol1 he says1 after being taken is incorporated with the blood1 and passing in some form not yet explained into the circulation1 ultimately disappears2 a small portion alone passing from the body1 and that in the breath4 ,he further says that when alcohol is mingled with other food1 a less amount of the latter suffices for the wants of the system than if water had been used as the drink4 ,dr4 ,inman cites his own experience of an attempt to do without his ordinary allowance of ale at dinner2 a large increase of food was necessited1 but the demand for this diminished at once on resuming the ale4 ,similar facts were noted in the experience of various members of his family4 ,no loss of health or strength was experienced1 except when the ordinary amount of solids was taken without the beer4 ,a celebrated ,french medical man 7,dr4 ,coulier7 published an excellent article on beer 78,article ,bire0 in ,vol4 ,,ix4 of the ,dictionnaire ,encyclopdique de ,sciences ,mdicales7 considered from a medical point of view4 ,he says1 in effect1 that beer being less rich in alcohol than even the poorest wines1 holds an intermediate place between the latter and purely watery drinks4 ,it presents1 according to its mode of preparation and composition1 a continuous scale of more or less alcoholic drinks1 from porter and ale down to small beer containing little more than one per cent4 of alcohol4 ,its bitter principles render it tonic and aperient2 while the somnolence and heaviness that follow an over-allowance of this fluid are due to the action of the essential oil of the hop4 ,he holds that of all fermented drinks1 beer is the one whose taste se marie le plus agrablement with the use of the pipe4 ,beer must be considered in the light of an alimentary drink4 ,in every hundred parts of beer are five of extract containing a little nitrogenous assimilable matter and salts favourable to nutrition1 but consisting mainly of respiratory food4 8,if10 he says1 8fermented drinks have become one of the necessities of civilisation1 a prudent regard for health should make us as far as possible reduce the excitement which the alcohol occasions4 ,in this respect beer presents a great advantage over wine4 ,thus a half-bottle of wine #dba containing #ab per cent4 of alcohol1 which is the common allowance for an adult1 contains #cge grammes of wine1 and consequently #de grammes of anhydrous alcohol4 ,a bottle of beer containing #d per cent1 of alcohol is equally satisfying1 and contains only #cj grammes of alcohol4 ,hence1 supposing two meals are taken daily1 the beer-drinker daily imbibes #cj grammes less of alcohol than the wine-drinker2 and this difference amounts in the course of the year to nearly #aa kilogrammes1 or #ad litres 7equivalent to #bd lbs4 or #c gallons71 of anhydrous alcohol40 ,examples without number might be collected of men who habitually used alcoholic drinks sometimes in moderation1 sometimes1 in what we1 in these latter days1 should certainly consider excess1 and who yet lived in health and usefulness to the extreme boundary of human life4 ,old ,parr1 if we are to believe ,taylor1 who sings his praises1 was a drinker of the moderate kind4 ,sometimes metheglin and by fortune happy1 ,he sometimes sipped a cup of ale most nappy1 ,cyder1 or perry1 when he did repair ,to ,whitsun ale1 wake1 wedding1 or fair1 ,else he had little leisure time to waste1 ,or at the ale-house huff-cup ale to taste4 ,henry ,jenkins1 who died in #afgj at the wonderful age of #afe years1 took his ale whenever he could get it4 ,he lived very much in the open air and spent his time in thatching and salmon-fishing4 ,at one time he was butler to ,lord ,conyers1 of ,hornby ,castle1 and he has left it on record that when1 as often happened1 his master sent him over with messages to ,marmaduke ,brodelay1 ,lord ,abbot of ,fountains1 the abbot 8always sent for him to his lodgings1 and1 after prayers1 ordered him1 besides wassel1 a quarter of a yard of roast beef 7for that the monasteries did deliver their meat by measure71 and a great black ,jack of strong ale40 ,have we not1 too1 the evidence of epitaphs graven in stone1 which are well known never to lie1 all bearing out the truth of the longevity of ale drinkers8 ,here are two1 the first being in ,great ,walford churchyard3-- ,here ,john ,randal lies ,who counting of his tale ,lived threescore years and ten1 ,such vertue was in ale4 ,ale was his meat1 ,ale was his drink4 #dbb ,ale did his heart revive1 ,and if he could have drunk his ale ,he still had been alive4 ,he died ,january #e1 #afii4 ,the second is in ,edwalton1 ,notts3 ,ob4 #agda4 ,rebecca ,freeland1 ,she drank good ale1 good punch and wine1 ,and lived to the age of #ii4 ,macklin1 the comedian1 who died in #agig1 for upwards of thirty years was a daily visitor at the ,antelope1 in ,white ,hart ,yard1 ,covent ,garden4 ,his usual beverage was a pint of hot stout2 he said it balmed his stomach and kept him from having any inward pains4 ,whether from the effects of this inward 8balming0 or not1 ,macklin undoubtedly lived to the age of #ig years4 ,in ,daniell's ,british ,sports there is an account of ,joe ,mann1 gamekeeper to ,lord ,torrington4 8,he was in constant morning exercise1 he went to bed always betimes1 but never till his skin was filled with ale4 ,this he said1 #8would do no harm to an early riser1 and to a man who pursued field sports4' ,at seventy-eight years of age he began to decline1 and then lingered for three years4 ,his gun was ever upon his arm1 and he still crept about1 not destitute of the hope of fresh diversion40 ,the next instance1 to be found in ,,hone',s ,,year ,,book1 illustrates1 not so much the tendency of beer and ale1 when taken in large quantities1 to make men healthy1 wealthy1 and wise1 as to make them fat4 ,on ,november #cj1 #agic1 died at ,beaumaris1 ,william ,lewis1 ,esq41 of ,llandismaw1 in the act of drinking a cup of ,welsh ale1 containing about a wine quart1 called a 8tumbler maur40 ,he made it a rule1 every morning of his life1 to read so many chapters in the ,bible1 and in the evening to drink eight gallons of ale4 ,it is calculated that in his lifetime he must have drunk a sufficient quantity to float a seventy-four gun ship4 ,his size was astonishing1 and he weighed forty stone4 ,although he died in his parlour1 it was found necessary to construct a machine in form of a crane1 to lift his body in a carriage1 and afterwards to have the machine to let him down into the grave4 ,he went by the name of the ,king of ,spain1 and his family by the different titles of prince1 infantas1 c4 #dbc ,one of the great teetotal arguments against the use of malt liquors1 one which the advocates of total abstinence generally fall back upon when beaten on every other point1 is that beer is adulterated4 ,this assertion1 if it could be substantiated1 would undoubtedly cut away the very foundation of our argument as to the wholesomeness of ale and beer4 ,we must1 then1 shortly consider the point4 ,time out of mind the brewers have been accused of adulterating their ale and beer1 with what truth1 at any rate at the present day1 we shall see anon4 ,opium1 henbane1 cocculus indicus1 and we know not what noxious drugs besides1 it has commonly1 and we think somewhat recklessly1 been asserted1 find their way into the brewing vessels4 ,some time ago ,m4 ,payen1 a ,french chemist of distinction1 created quite a panic amongst the drinkers of pale ale by asserting1 in a lecture at the ,conservatoire des ,arts et ,mtiers1 that strychnine was prepared in large quantities in ,paris for exportation to ,england1 where it was employed to give1 or to aid in giving1 the esteemed bitter flavour to pale ale4 ,this statement appearing in ,le ,constitutional1 and other ,french papers1 soon found its way into the ,english journals1 to the consternation of the drinkers and purveyors of this beverage4 ,the leading firms of ,burton ale brewers at once threw open their breweries and stores in the most unreserved manner1 and 8,the ,lancet's ,analytical ,sanitary ,commission0 undertook an inquiry on the subject4 ,forty samples of beer1 all brewed before the promulgation of the statement1 were analyzed by the commission1 as well as samples taken by other analysts at the request of ,messrs4 ,allsopp and ,sons4 ,needless to say1 not a particle of strychnine was discovered4 ,half a grain of strychnine will destroy life1 and a grain would be required to impart to one gallon of beer its ordinary degree of bitterness4 ,the flavour of hops and strychnine differs4 ,to bitter the amount then brewed at ,burton #af1ddh ounces of strychnine would be required4 ,not so much as #a1jjj ounces of strychnine were manufactured in the whole world yearly4 ,in a quaint pamphlet entitled ,old ,london ,rogueries1 the following statement is made seriously3--8,there ought also to be compiled a delectable and pleasant treatise by such as sell bottle-ale1 who1 to make it fly up to the top of the house at the first opening1 do put gunpowder into the bottles while the ale is new1 then by stopping it close make people believe it is the strength of the ale1 when1 being truly sifted1 it is nothing indeed but the strength of the gunpowder that worketh the effect1 to the great heart-burning of the parties who drink the same4 ,this is a truly strange and marvellous artifice1 and must be reckoned #dbd among the lost inventions40 ,we wonder if these cunning retailers of the olden time ever used shot as well as powder with their bottled ale1 which doubtless would have greatly increased the effect4 ,in ,october1 #ahhc1 a statement was loudly trumpeted forth from teetotal platforms that #bde1jjj cwt4 of chemicals were used every year in ,england in brewing4 ,after a good deal of discussion on the subject1 it leaked out that the figures had been arrived at by a firm of hop dealers1 anxious to run up the price of hops4 ,by a blunder in their calculations they had come to the conclusion that there was a deficit of #bde1jjj cwt4 of hops in this country4 ,from this it was argued that #bde1jjj cwt4 of chemicals were used4 ,this house of cards fell when it was conclusively proved that there were at the time actually more hops in ,england than were required by the brewers4 ,with regard to the question of adulteration at the present day1 it could be wished that those who are induced by a fanatical hatred of alcohol in any shape or form to make this alleged adulteration a reason for further restrictive legislation on the brewing trade1 would take the trouble to look at the reports annually published by the ,inland ,revenue ,commissioners in which this point is dealt with4 ,here are a few extracts from their report for the year #ahha1 soon after the repeal of the ,malt-tax4 8,brewers have no doubt been experimenting with other descriptions of grain1 as might have been expected1 but we believe that barley1 from its peculiar fitness for malting1 will in the end maintain its superiority2 and we are informed that a new method of preparing inferior barley for brewing purposes promises to be highly successful40 8,so far as we are aware1 no attempts have been made to use materials in brewing at all detrimental to the public health2 and the presence of the ,revenue officers in breweries affords fresh security to the public--if indeed any such were needed--against all such practices40 ,in the same report ,professor ,bell1 the ,principal of the ,inland ,revenue ,laboratory1 goes into detail and gives very valuable statistics1 showing the way in which the opinion given by the ,commissioners was arrived at4 ,in #ahha1 #h1fbf samples of beer were tested1 of which #d1fff were analyzed to see if any foreign body had been added1 as well as to check the original gravity4 ,of this large number the whole were nearly correct1 but actually #ag per cent1 were found not alone to be up to the standard test1 but above it2 and out of nearly #bj1jjj brewers1 which1 in round numbers1 was then the extent of the trade in the ,united ,kingdom1 only some #cjj were even suspected of having used illegal materials4 ,of the ninety samples of beer submitted for analysis as being suspected #dbe to have been tampered with1 sixty-three were found to have been 8sugared10 but in every instance this occurred at the public-house or beerhouse1 a matter which was beyond the control of the brewer1 and was as much a fraud on him as on the ,revenue and the public4 ,mr4 ,bell goes on to state that whatever adulteration prevails is wholly confined to the publican and the beer retailer1 and even where it does prevail1 at the most the practice means nothing worse than diluting the beer with water and afterwards adding sugar2 still1 as ,mr4 ,bell remarks1 8,reprehensible as the practice is1 as being a fraud on the public as well as the ,revenue1 yet it is satisfactory to know that no adulterant of a poisonous or hurtful character has been detected40 ,dr4 ,thudichum1 in a work ,alcoholic ,drinks1 published by the ,executive ,council of the late ,health ,exhibition1 speaking of the supposition that hops are sometimes supplanted1 entirely or in part1 in the manufacture of beer by absynth1 menyanthes1 quassia1 gentian1 and other matters1 regards such adulteration as rare and such as 8if practised persistently would no doubt be discovered1 and the liquids produced by their aid would be declined by the public40 ,an ,irish brewer told us of a rather comic incident connected with hop substitutes4 ,a traveller in these commodities was in the habit of pestering our friend1 who informed the man that he believed his wares were poisonous1 and that he ought to eat some to prove the contrary4 ,with a wry face the traveller swallowed a portion of his sample and shortly afterwards left4 ,coming again in a week's time the same performance was gone through4 ,the traveller made yet another visit1 when the brewer said the experiment had not satisfied him1 as so small a quantity of the hop had been eaten4 ,this time the traveller outdid himself1 and when and before leaving the brewery promised to write and inform the brewer if the bitter meal had any evil effects4 ,whether the traveller died1 or whether he discovered that he had been befooled1 we do not know1 but nothing more was heard of him4 ,we believe that the importance of a supply of good1 pure beer to the labouring classes of this country can hardly be over-estimated1 particularly having regard to the fact--as we shall show with greater particularity1 when we come to discuss the question of total abstinence as opposed to temperance1 that malt liquors undoubtedly assist in the support of the body1 and are in practical effect equivalent to so much easily digested food4 8,thou clears the head o' doited lear1 ,thou cheers the heart o' drooping care2 #dbf ,and strings the nerves o' labour fair1 ,at's weary toil4 ,thou even brightens dark despair1 ,wi' gloomy smile40 ,dr4 ,paris1 from whose works we have already quoted1 explains that it is the stimulus of the beer that proves so serviceable to the poor man1 enabling his stomach to extract more aliment from his innutritive diet4 8,happy is that country10 he writes1 8whose labouring classes prefer such a beverage to the mischievous potations of ardent spirit40 ,barley wine is without doubt the wine of this country1 and where shall we find1 all the world over1 a more stalwart1 muscular1 able-bodied race of labouring men than we find at home8 ,the mighty thews of the ,english navigator are renowned1 and not at home only1 for it is well known that while the ,french railways were making1 the contractors actually imported ,english 8navvies0 to do the heavy work1 paying them higher wages than their ,french competitors4 ,we would commend to the attention of those who1 as the phrase goes1 would rob a poor man of his beer1 the certainty that1 though the evils of intoxication can hardly be exaggerated1 yet in counselling the labouring classes everywhere1 and under all circumstances1 to abstain from all kinds of liquor1 they are taking upon themselves a very grave responsibility4 ,the following old ,somersetshire song has1 we believe1 at any rate in this form1 never before appeared in print4 ,it was taken down verbatim from the lips of the singer at a harvest-home4 ,the verses no doubt lack the elegance of the productions of our greater ,english poets1 but the composer1 whoever he may have been1 treated his subject with commendable vigour of expression1 and 8,robin ,rough1 the ,plowboy10 illustrates in a remarkable manner the love of the agricultural labourer for his beer1 and his belief in its health-giving qualities2 a belief1 by-the-bye1 founded on many centuries of experience3-- ,i'ze ,robin ,rough1 the plowboy1 ,a plowman's son am ,i1 ,and like my thirsty feyther1 ,my trottle is always a-dry1 ,the world goes round1 to me it's reet1 ,why need ,i interfere8 ,for ,i whistles and sings from morn till neet1 ,and ,i smokes and ,i drinks my beer4 #dbg ,for ,i likes a drop of good beer1 ,i does2 ,i'ze fond of a drop of good beer1 ,i is4 ,let gentlemen fine ,sit down to their wine1 ,but ,i will stick to my beer4 ,there's ,sally--that's my wife1 zurs-- ,likes beer as well as me1 ,she's the happiest woman in life1 zurs1 ,as happy as woman can be4 ,she minds her work1 ,takes care of bairns1 ,no gossiping neighbours near2 ,when every ,saturday neet returns1 ,like me she drinks her beer4 ,for ,sally likes her beer1 she does1 ,she's fond of a drop of good beer1 she is1 ,let gentlemen fine ,sit down to their wine1 ,but my ,sally will stick to her beer4 ,now there's my dad1 ,god bless him1 ,he's now turned eighty-five1 ,hard work does ne'er distress him1 ,he's the happiest man alive4 ,though old in age ,he's young in health1 ,his head and his heart both clear1 ,possessing these and blest with peace1 ,he smokes and he drinks his beer-- ,for he's fond of a drop of good beer1 he is1 ,he very much likes his beer1 he does1 ,let gentlemen fine ,sit down to their wine1 ,but my feyther will stick to his beer4 ,now1 lads1 need no persuasion1 ,but send your glasses round1 ,there's no fear of an invasion ,while barley grows in ground2 #dbh ,may trade increase ,and discord cease ,in every coming year4 ,possessed of these and blest with peace1 ,why1 we'll smoke and we'll drink our beer4 ,for ,i likes a drop of good beer1 ,i does1 ,i'ze fond of a drop of good beer1 ,i is4 ,let gentlemen fine ,sit down to their wine ,but we'll all of us stick to our beer4 ,the poet ,bloomfield1 in the ,farmer's ,boy1 may possibly better please our more critical readers4 ,in describing the harvest-homing1 he says3-- ,now noon gone by1 and four declining hours1 ,the weary limbs relax their boasted pow'rs2 ,thirst rages strong1 the fainting spirits fail1 ,and ask the sov'reign cordial1 home-brew'd ale3 99 99 99 99 99 ,a wider circle spreads1 and smiles abound1 ,as quick the frothing horn performs its round1 ,care's mortal foe1 that sprightly joys imparts ,to cheer the frame and elevate their hearts4 ,shakespere has been called by the teetotallers as a witness in favour of abstinence from intoxicating liquors4 ,does he not make ,adam1 in ,as ,you ,like ,it1 say-- ,though ,i look old1 yet ,i am strong and lusty2 ,for in my youth ,i never did apply ,hot and rebellious liquors in my blood1 ,nor did not with unbashful forehead woo ,the means of weakness and debility2 ,therefore my age is as a lusty winter1 ,frosty1 but kindly8 ,hot and rebellious liquors6 yes2 but would ,shakespere have classed ale amongst them8 ,it seems far more probable that the reference is to the strong wines of which the topers of his time drank deeply1 the 8malmsey and malvoisie10 the 8neat wine of ,orleance1 the ,gascony1 the ,bordeaux1 the sherry sack1 the liquorish ,ipocras1 brown beloved ,bastard1 or fat #dbi ,aligant10 or to the 8aqua vit10 the manufacture of which in the reign of ,mary was the subject of restrictive legislation4 ,our consideration of the arguments put forward by the teetotal theorists has so far been slightly delayed by the few pages we have thought it well to devote to the accusations made against brewers of adulteration1 and of the evident advantages of malt liquor to the labouring classes--proved beyond doubt without any necessity for learned disquisitions on chemistry or physiology4 ,in turning now to a more particular consideration of the much-vexed question of temperance v4 total abstinence1 we do not propose to attempt the advancement of any novel or startling theories1 but merely to give publicity to the arguments in favour of the temperate use of alcoholic drinks1 as opposed to the total abstinence therefrom1 supporting our arguments1 as it will be found we shall be able to do1 by the opinions of some of the best-known medical and scientific writers of the present day4 ,one of the first things that strikes an observer who considers1 as impartially as he can1 the case put forward by the extreme advocates of abstinence1 is that the controversy itself is a very modern one1 and that1 with the tendency to run into opposite extremes which is a characteristic of human opinion1 we pass suddenly from the centuries in which it was held no shame for a man to be drunk1 into these present years1 when there exists a considerable1 and in some sense1 an influential body of persons1 who not only will not touch alcoholic drink themselves upon any terms1 but who think it their duty to press for such legislation as would deprive all men1 be they temperate or otherwise1 of the power of buying1 selling1 or drinking any liquor of which alcohol is a constituent4 8,poison60 8,touch not the accursed thing60 8,away with it60 and so on--very voluble1 occasionally eloquent1 sometimes plausible4 ,but will the fierce denunciations of these apostles of a new religion--a religion not of temperance1 but1 as it has been well called1 of 8intemperate abstinence10 bear the searching light of calm and quiet argument8 ,we had once a friend who1 while fond of his pipe1 was always interested in reading about the terrible evils which the weed would1 according to the infallible dicta of the anti-tobacco lecturers1 be sure in time to bring upon his unfortunate constitution4 ,before sitting down to read one of these lectures1 he used always to light a large and favourite briar2 he said it enabled him to follow the lecturer's points so much better4 ,now we do not ask our readers to follow the example of our friend mutatis mutandis4 ,we do not say that such a proceeding would of necessity assist him in following our arguments4 ,all we claim #dcj is a patient hearing1 for there never has been a time in which an unprejudiced discussion of the subject would be of greater advantage than at present4 ,human habit of centuries1 of thousands of years1 of such time that the memory and record of the human race1 to use a legal phrase1 runneth not to the contrary1 is evidence in our favour4 ,whenever he has had the requisite skill1 man has produced1 enjoyed1 and1 we maintain1 has been improved by drinks in which alcohol formed a constituent part4 ,the practice of civilised nations for thousands of years is1 then1 so far as it goes1 an argument in favour of temperance as opposed to abstinence4 ,we do not wish to put this part of our case too high1 and our meaning cannot be better expressed than by the words of ,sir ,james ,paget1 who1 in an essay on this subject in the ,contemporary ,review1 writes3 8,the beliefs of reasonable people are1 doubtless1 by a large majority favourable to moderation rather than abstinence1 and this should not be regarded as of no weight in the discussion4 ,for1 although the subject be one in which few1 even among reasonable people1 have made any careful observations1 and fewer still have thought with any care1 yet this very indifference to the subject1 this readiness to fall in with custom1 a custom maintained in the midst of a constant love of change1 and outliving all that mere fashion has sustained--all this is enough to prove that the evidence of the custom being a bad one is not clear40 ,it is an indisputable fact that nations who have used alcohol have attained to a greater perfection in power and will to do good work1 and a longer duration of life in which such work can be performed1 than those who have used no alcohol2 and1 confining our attention to ,europe1 may we not say that these powers of work1 these activities of body and mind in enterprise1 in invention1 and in production1 are more remarkably developed in the inhabitants of the northern than of the southern parts of the ,continent1 that is to say1 among those who have habitually drank more than those who have drank less8 ,and may we not ask how it is that1 if the use of alcohol in moderation be pernicious1 the inherited effects of it have not during these vast periods of time during which it has been used1 made themselves apparent in a marked degeneracy of the race1 since we know that these results will make themselves very conspicuous indeed in two generations of persons who are habitually intemperate8 ,we are told that it is unnatural to make use of alcoholic drinks1 and we are lectured about what man in his natural state would do1 or #dca not do4 ,this is a misuse of terms2 the state in which mankind is at any particular period1 the point in his path of development which he has then reached1 and his then environment1 these constitute his natural state1 and not some more or less hypothetical state of being which has been now left far behind4 ,in order to enable them to thrust their theories upon a certainly unwilling audience1 it would be very convenient for the abstainers to show1 if they could1 that alcohol1 in any form and no matter how diluted1 is in itself a bad thing4 ,first1 then1 let us consider whether alcohol1 as such1 is food4 ,on this point ,dr4 ,lander ,brunton says3 8,the argument in favour of alcohol being food is that it is retained in the body and supplies the place of other foods1 so that the quantity of food which would without it be insufficient1 with its aid becomes sufficient40 ,he also quotes ,dr4 ,hammond1 who observed in his own case that when his diet was insufficient1 the addition of a little alcohol to it not only prevented him from losing weight1 as he had previously done1 but converted this loss into a positive gain4 ,the late ,g4 ,h4 ,lewes1 in his ,principles of ,physiology1 also speaks conclusively on this subject1 pointing out that alcohol is one of the alimentary principles4 8,in compliance with the custom of physiologists we are forced to call alcohol food1 and very efficient food too4 ,if it be not food1 then neither is sugar food40 ,mr4 ,lewes also states that alcohol taken in large quantities is harmful1 depriving the mucous membrane of the stomach of all its water1 but that taken in small quantities and diluted it has just the opposite effect1 increasing the secretion by the stimulus it gives to the circulation4 ,the general opinion of the medical world appears to be that alcohol as such1 is a food in a special sense1 viz41 that it checks the waste of tissue and enables a person to attain to a high standard of health and strength mentally and bodily while taking less food than would be necessary without the alcohol4 ,moleschott says that 8although forming none of the constituents of blood1 alcohol limits the combustion of those constituents1 and in this way is equivalent to so much blood4 ,alcohol is the savings bank of the tissues4 ,he who eats little and drinks alcohol in moderation1 retains as much in his blood and tissues as he who eats more and drinks no alcohol40 ,the argument to the effect that alcohol must be useless1 because chemists have as yet been unable to trace the exact form and manner in which it acts upon the human economy1 would seem to be fallacious in the face of the experience1 which shows that it does act1 and act #dcb beneficially1 when taken in a suitable form and in suitable quantity4 ,experience shows1 and instances by the hundred could be given1 from the works of medical men1 that life can be sustained for long periods of time solely upon alcoholic drinks4 ,dr4 ,brudenell ,carter mentions a case in his own experience of an old gentleman who lived for many months in moderate strength and comfort and without any remarkable emaciation upon alcoholic drinks alone4 ,dr4 ,thomas ,inman1 in a paper read before the ,british ,medical ,association1 gives an instance of a lady who twice in succession nursed a child1 subsisting upon each occasion during the greater part of twelve months upon brandy and bitter ale alone2 the children1 he adds1 grew up strong and healthy4 ,dr4 ,francis ,e4 ,anstie1 in an article published in the ,cornhill ,magazine in #ahfb1 draws attention to the fact that many substances have an action on the body in small doses1 totally different in kind to that which they exercise in large doses e4g41 common salt1 arsenic1 and many others which are either food or poisons1 according to the dose4 8,we are compelled1 therefore10 he writes1 8to believe that in doses proportioned to the needs of the system at the time1 alcohol acts as a food20 and he instances several cases of longevity in which alcohol was the only aliment1 excepting in some cases a little water1 and in others a spare allowance of bread4 ,decisively vanquished on this ground1 our opponents return to the attack3 8,you must abstain10 say they1 8because your practice1 which is now moderate1 will insensibly become excessive40 ,here we again turn to ,mr4 ,lewes's work on ,physiology1 and quote the pithy argument by which he refutes this fallacy4 ,a portion is italicised for the benefit of tea drinkers3 8,to suppose there is any necessary connection between moderation and excess1 is to ignore ,physiology1 and fly in the face of evidence 4 4 4 ,men take their pint of beer or pint of wine daily1 for a series of years4 ,this dose daily produces its effect2 and if at any time thirst or social seduction makes them drink a quart in lieu of a pint1 they are at once made aware of the excess4 ,men drink one or two cups of tea or coffee at breakfast with unvarying regularity for a whole lifetime2 but whoever felt the necessity of gradually increasing the amount to three1 four1 or five cups8 ,yet we know what a stimulant tea is2 we know that treble the amount of our daily consumption would soon produce paralysis--why are we not irresistibly led to this fatal excess80 ,let us now return to our authorities1 and from the wealth of material which exists in the published opinions of medical men of distinction1 choose a few more extracts in favour of temperance as opposed to total #dcc abstinence4 ,professor ,liebig1 for instance1 says that wine1 spirits1 and beer are necessary principles for the important process of respiration1 and it would seem that the stomachs of all mankind1 teetotallers included1 will secrete alcohol from the food which is eaten4 ,if any man1 therefore1 is resolved to carry out total abstinence strictly1 he must refuse every sort of vegetable food1 even bread itself2 for all such diet contains more or less of alcohol4 ,sir ,james ,paget1 in the article already referred to1 asserts that the habitual moderate use of alcoholic drinks is generally beneficial1 and that1 in the question raised between temperance and abstinence1 the verdict should be in favour of temperance4 ,dr4 ,a4 ,j4 ,bernays1 in an essay on ,the ,moderate ,use of ,alcohols1 alluding to water as a proposed substitute1 remarks on the wretched character of the water which is supplied in towns1 and the difficulty of getting it pure4 8,water which has gone through some form of preparation1 especially through some form of cooking1 as in beer1 is generally better suited for meals than water itself40 ,dr4 ,carpenter has also drawn attention to the wholesomeness of bitter beer at meals4 8,there is a class of cases10 he writes1 8in which we believe that malt liquors constitute a better medicine than could be administered under any other form2 those1 namely1 in which the stomach labours under a permanent deficiency of digestive powers40 ,bitter beer1 he asserts1 assists digestion in cases in which no medicine would be of use4 ,this question of the water reminds us of the following tale3 ,a cobbler was listening to the persuasive eloquence of a teetotaller1 and getting somewhat dry over the prosy argument4 8,well10 said the knight of ,st4 ,crispin1 8all you say amounts to this--that water is the best thing any man can drink4 ,now ,i am not proud1 and am easily satisfied1 and don't want the best--stout1 or ale1 or even bitter-beer is quite good enough for the likes of me40 ,it is very often pointed out that the agricultural labourer and the working classes generally would be better off if they spent the money devoted to beer in food4 ,this is1 however1 open to question1 keeping in mind the fact that alcohol enables the human frame to exist with a smaller amount of food than would be otherwise necessary4 ,dr4 ,c4 ,d4 ,redcliffe1 in giving his views on alcohol1 in the form of a conversation between himself and a patient1 speaks very positively on this point4 8,the glass of malt liquor10 he writes1 8or cyder or perry or common wine1 if the man have the luck to live in a wine-growing country1 will #dcd cost less than the amount of ordinary food which must otherwise be eaten in order to preserve health4 ,i have no doubt of the saving in pocket which will result from the adoption of the practice recommended 4 4 4 4 and ,i am equally certain that the result will be as beneficial to health as it will be satisfactory financially40 ,liebig also testifies to the same effect1 stating that in families where beer was withheld1 and money given in compensation1 it was soon found that the monthly consumption of bread was so strikingly increased that the beer was twice paid for1 once in money and a second time in bread4 ,mr4 ,brudenell ,carter1 while he was practising his profession in a mining district1 and daily brought into contact with the results of drunken habits1 determined that he 8should be a better advocate of abstinence if he practised it10 and he accordingly gave up his liquor4 ,the results we give in his own words3--8,after about two months of total abstinence1 the conviction was reluctantly forced upon me that the experiment was a failure1 and that ,i must give it up40 ,his symptoms pointed1 he says1 8in a perfectly plain way to an excess of waste over repair4 ,i returned to my bitter beer1 and in the course of a week was well again40 ,a volume could be filled with similar experiences1 but in summing up the result of modern medical opinion1 we are contented to rest our case on what has been said on this point by the two great authorities we have before quoted1 viz41 ,sir ,james ,paget and ,dr4 ,bernays2 the former writes3 8,as for the opinions of the medical profession1 they are1 by a vast majority1 in favour of moderation4 ,it may be admitted that1 of late years1 the number of cases has increased in which habitual abstinence from alcoholic drinks has been deemed better than habitual moderation4 ,but1 excluding those of children and young persons1 the number of these cases is still very small1 and few of them have been observed through a long course of years1 so as to test the probable influence of a life-long habitual abstinence4 ,whatever weight1 then1 may be assigned to the balance of opinions among medical men1 it certainly must be given in favour of moderation1 not of abstinence40 ,dr4 ,bernays is still stronger4 8,the experience of mankind is better than individual experience1 and so1 for every medical man of distinction who is in favour of total abstinence1 ,i would find twenty men who are against it40 ,hardly anyone who has lived among teetotallers will deny that they are large eaters4 ,now the greater the amount of solid food that is required to keep a human being up to the normal level of health and strength1 the greater amount of nervous energy will be consumed #dce in the process of digestion1 and the less superfluity of energy will that person have in reserve to meet the other exigencies and activities of life4 ,it therefore seems to follow with the certainty of a mathematical demonstration1 that if1 as those who are best qualified to judge assure us is the case1 the moderate consumption of alcoholic liquors enables a person to keep himself in health and strength upon a less amount of solid food than would be necessary without the aid of alcohol1 the life of that man1 other things being equal1 must be fuller of capacities for all kinds of work1 both mental and bodily1 than that of a man who takes no alcohol1 and who is in consequence forced to use up a greater amount of nerve force in the consumption of a sufficiency of solids to support himself4 ,it is an uncontrovertible fact that the best work has always been done by the moderate drinkers4 ,the physical condition of rigid abstainers has frequently been commented upon2 and without wishing to say anything unkind1 or uncharitable1 about men who are doubtless honest and conscientious1 though1 in our view1 misguided1 we cannot but suggest the question--,is the appearance of the average abstainer1 who now1 happily for the cause of truth1 is known to all the world by the blue ribbon he wears1 such as may be considered a good advertisement for the opinions he advocates8 ,does his appearance seem to indicate a physical or intellectual superiority to the average member of the genus homo8 ,we think there can be but one opinion on this point1 and it is that each and every of these questions must be answered with an emphatic negative4 ,on the action of the ,temperance ,societies1 ,dr4 ,moxon1 in a very able article1 ,alcohol and ,individuality1 after relating how a poor cooper1 having a fever caused by a wound1 died rather than take the alcohol which was absolutely necessary to sustain him1 says3 8,i believe that to a large extent teetotalism lays firmest hold on those who are least likely ever to become drunkards1 and are most likely to want at times the medicinal use of alcohol--sensitive1 good-natured people1 of weak constitution1 to whom the ,sacred ,ecclesiast directed his strange sounding but needful advice1 #8,be not righteous over much1 neither make thyself over wise3 why shouldst thou destroy thyself8'0 ,in ,august1 #ahhd1 ,the ,times devoted several columns to an exhaustive consideration of teetotal theories and the use of alcohol1 and it may be said1 without fear of contradiction1 that neither before nor since has a more valuable treatise appeared on the subject4 ,the writer divides total abstainers into three classes4 ,of the first class he says3 8,there are some persons who seem not to require alcohol because they easily #dcf digest a large quantity of solid food1 and especially of saccharine and starchy matters1 4 4 4 4 but it is fairly questionable whether their work in life would not be better in quantity or in quality1 or both1 if they were to consume less solid food1 and to make up for the deficiency by a little beer or wine4 ,there are others who have a distinctly morbid tendency towards excess1 4 4 4 4 which leaves them no safety except in total abstinence4 ,the difficulty with these persons is to keep them from drink1 however hurtful they may know it to be1 for their condition is one of disease1 and they have seldom sufficient resolution to abstain4 ,when they do abstain they furnish striking examples of the success of teetotalism by being changed from a state closely bordering on insanity into responsible members of society2 but the ordinary experience with regard to them is that they have a succession of relapses into intemperance1 and that they ultimately die1 directly or indirectly1 from the effects of drink4 4 4 4 ,the third class of abstainers is formed by those who are actuated in the main by benevolent and conscientious motives1 which1 unfortunately1 are seldom controlled by the possession of adequate knowledge4 ,many clergymen abstain #8for the sake of example1' without pausing to consider whether the example may not1 in some cases1 be a bad one1 and whether they would not discharge their manifest duties more efficiently by help of the added force which alcohol would give4 ,many persons get on fairly well without alcohol because their powers are never subjected to any considerable strain1 and these persons too often break down when any strain comes upon them1 unless they will consent to modify their mode of living4 ,this1 as is too well known1 they will not always do2 and every medical man has seen instances of fanatical teetotalism leading to complete destruction of the health of those who were governed by it40 ,with regard to teetotal societies1 the writer considers that they do very little good and a great deal of harm4 8,they fail10 he says1 8to touch the evils of drunkenness1 except in a very limited fashion1 and they take away alcohol from vast numbers who would be better for the moderate use of it4 ,we think the time has come when philanthropists should cease to listen to mere declamation1 and should try to look calmly and fearlessly at the results of observation and experience4 ,many a good man is injuring his health and diminishing his usefulness in order to adhere1 #8for the sake of example1' to a fantastic deprivation40 ,to check the evils of drunkenness1 we rely not on prohibitory legislation1 which has been tried elsewhere and found wanting1 but on the gradual spread of education and enlightenment2 the effects of public #dcg opinion1 the improvement of the well-being of the humbler classes more particularly with reference to their habitations both in town and country4 ,perhaps also1 but here we speak with greater diffidence on account of the practical difficulties in which such a proposal is involved a remedy is to be found in the confinement of those persons who have shown by their conduct that their inability to refrain from vile excesses arises from actual mental disease4 ,lord ,bramwell1 in a pamphlet called ,drink1 has written to very much the same effect4 ,he also calls in question the right of society to interfere with individual liberty to the extent proposed by the teetotallers4 ,is it reasonable1 he asks1 that because some people drink to excess1 alcoholic liquors are to be denied to millions to whom it is a daily pleasure and enjoyment with no attendant harm8 ,if a man is drunk in public1 punish him2 but it does seem hard that the sober man should be punished--for withholding a pleasure and inflicting a pain are equally punishment4 8,then see the mischief of such laws10 he continues4 8,the public conscience does not go with them4 ,it is certain they will be broken4 ,every one knows that stealing is wrong2 disgrace follows conviction4 ,but every one knows that drinking a glass of beer is not wrong2 no discredit attaches to it4 ,it is done1 and when done against the law you have the usual mischiefs of law-breaking1 smuggling1 informations1 oaths1 perjury1 shuffling1 and lies4 ,besides1 as a matter of fact1 it fails4 ,nothing can show this more strongly than the failure in ,wales of the ,sunday ,closing ,act40 ,lord ,bramwell in the end comes to the conclusion that drunkenness cannot be prevented by legislation4 8,whether it is desirable to limit the number of drink shops10 he writes1 8is a matter as to which ,i have great doubt and difficulty4 ,but grant that there is the right to forbid it1 wholly or partially1 in place or time1 ,i say it is a right which should not be exercised4 ,to do so is to interfere with the innocent enjoyment of millions in order to lessen the mischief arising from the folly or evil propensities1 not of themselves1 but of others4 ,and1 further1 that such legislation is attended with the mischiefs which always follow from the creation of offences in law which are not so in conscience4 ,punish the mischievous drunkard1 indeed1 perhaps1 even punish him for being drunk in public1 and so a likely source of mischief4 ,punish1 on the same principle1 the man who sells drink to the drunken4 ,but go no further4 ,trust to the good sense and improvement of mankind1 and let charity be shown to those who would trust to them rather than to law40 ,other arguments in opposition to those who would introduce what #dch is known as local option may be briefly summed up as follows3--,such a system would establish the principle that a majority of ratepayers in one district may put a stop to any trade or calling to which they may happen to object1 although the same trade remains perfectly legitimate in other places2 it would concentrate the evil1 shifting the area of the sale of drink1 and thus intensifying the mischiefs complained of2 it would introduce invidious class distinctions1 since its effects would principally be felt by the poor and the labouring classes1 and in place of a trade which is now subject to inspection and regulation1 it would substitute a secret and irresponsible one4 ,in this discussion1 the balance of experience1 of reason1 and of authority is vastly in favour of the temperate man rather than the abstainer1 and it may be said without fear of contradiction from any reasonable or unbiassed person that1 for the great majority of the people of this country1 the most wholesome1 the most nutritious1 and the most pleasing alcoholic liquor1 is the 8wine of the country10 good1 sound ale and beer4 ,to the reader who has been patient enough to follow us thus far1 we give our best thanks1 hoping that he may have found something to amuse1 something1 perhaps1 to instruct in these pages--our best thanks1 we say1 and1 as a parting word1 a few verses by old ,john ,gay1 entitled ,a ,,ballad ,,on ,,ale4 ,whilst some in epic strains delight1 ,whilst others pastorals invite1 ,as taste or whim prevail2 ,assist me all ye tuneful ,nine1 ,support me in the great design1 ,to sing of nappy ,ale4 ,some folks of cider make a rout1 ,and cider's well enough no doubt ,when better liquors fail2 ,but wine that's richer1 better still1 ,ev'n wine itself 7deny 't who will7 ,must yield to nappy ,ale4 ,rum1 brandy1 gin with choicest smack1 ,from ,holland brought1 ,batavia rack1 ,all these will nought avail #dci ,to cheer a truly ,british heart1 ,and lively spirits to impart1 ,like humming nappy ,ale4 ,oh 6 whether thee ,i closely hug ,in honest can1 or nut-brown jug1 ,or in the tankard hail1 ,in barrel or in bottle pent1 ,i give the generous spirit vent1 ,still may ,i feast on ,ale4 ,but chief when to the cheerful glass1 ,from vessel pure1 thy streamlets pass1 ,then most thy charms prevail2 ,then1 then1 ,i'll bet and take the odds ,that nectar1 drink of ,heathen ,gods1 ,was poor compared to ,ale4 ,give me a bumper3 fill it up3 ,see how it sparkles in the cup2 ,o how shall ,i regale 6 ,can any taste this drink divine1 ,and then compare rum1 brandy1 wine1 ,or aught with nappy ,ale8 ,inspired by thee1 the warrior fights1 ,the lover wooes1 the poet writes ,and pens the pleasing tale2 ,and still in ,britain's isle confest1 ,nought animates the patriot's breast ,like generous nappy ,ale4 ,high church and low oft raise a strife ,and oft endanger limb and life1 ,each studious to prevail3 ,yet ,whig and ,tory1 opposite ,in all things else1 do both unite ,in praise of nappy ,ale4 ,inspired by thee1 shall ,crispin sing ,or talk of freedom1 church and king1 ,and balance ,europe's scale3 #ddj ,while his rich landlord lays out schemes ,of wealth in golden ,south-,sea dreams1 ,the effects of nappy ,ale4 ,ev'n while these stanzas ,i indite1 ,the bar-bells' grateful sounds invite ,where joy can never fail4 ,adieu1 my ,muse 6 adieu1 ,i haste ,to gratify my longing taste ,with copious draughts of ,ale4 ,the ,end ,illustration #dda ,illustration ,,appendix4 ,,pasteur',s ,,discoveries4 ,one talks glibly enough of fermentation1 but the majority of us would be puzzled if asked to say what it is4 ,for many years it has been known that minute particles of life are ever present in substances undergoing fermentation1 but until recently proved beyond question by ,m4 ,pasteur1 it was not known that the peculiar changes are wholly caused by these living atoms1 which are so small that they can only be seen through the most powerful microscope4 ,this discovery was the key to many problems4 ,pasteur soon traced the diseases of wine to the presence of various organisms which1 fortunately1 could be easily destroyed by heat4 ,from this it followed that wine once heated to a certain temperature could be kept an indefinite length of time1 provided1 of course1 no exposure to the air took place1 for from the air germs of organisms similar to those killed by the application of heat might again enter the wine and multiply themselves4 ,the method of preserving the wine discovered by ,pasteur is simple3 ,in a suitable metal vessel the bottles of wine are placed1 their corks firmly tied down4 ,the vessel is then filled to such a depth that the water is level with the wires of the corks4 ,one of the bottles1 in which is placed the bulb of a thermometer1 should be filled with water4 ,the water in the vessel is then gradually heated until the thermometer shows that the water in the bottle has attained a temperature of #bab ,fahr4 ,pasteur proved by repeated experiments that the flavour of the wine is not in any way damaged by this operation4 ,the discovery solved an important economic question1 for wines heated in this manner can now be exported into all countries1 or kept for an almost indefinite period without losing their flavour or perfume4 ,we have mentioned ,pasteur's labours for the wine-growers1 for on them were based his studies on beer4 #ddb ,at the close of the ,franco-,prussian war1 ,pasteur1 who was then recovering from an illness which lasted over two years1 became eager to commence an investigation which would bring him again to the study of fermentation4 ,influenced1 no doubt1 by the patriotic wish of making for ,french beer a reputation equal to that of ,germany1 he attacked the diseases of malt liquors4 ,beer is far more difficult to keep than wine1 and it is said to be diseased when it has turned sharp1 sour1 ropy or putrid4 ,to trace the causes of these undesirable conditions was ,pasteur's aim1 and1 as usual with any investigation undertaken by him1 he met with success4 ,in studying the fermentation of wine1 he had discovered a new world peopled with minute beings of many different species1 and in the fermentation of beer his discoveries were of much the same nature4 ,in wine the fermentation may be said to take place by itself1 the organisms which cause it1 finding their way into the liquid without the assistance of man2 but in beer-brewing a small quantity of certain organisms 7yeast7 is put into the sweet wort by the brewer4 ,these organisms multiply themselves1 and1 if of the right species1 turn the sugar principally into alcohol and carbonic acid gas4 ,the one remains in the beer1 the other partly escapes and hangs about the surface of the liquid1 as anyone who has put his nose into a fermenting tun has no doubt discovered4 ,it is absolutely necessary for the production of drinkable beer that the right species of organism be set to work in the wort4 ,if the wort was left to itself to ferment1 as is wine1 the results would be very unsatisfactory4 ,various kinds of organisms 7from which wine is protected by its acidity7 would enter into it from the air1 divers ferments would take place1 and more often than not an acid or putrid beer would be the result4 ,every beer-disease ,pasteur found to be caused by its own peculiar organisms1 which enter into the liquid sometimes from the air and often in the yeast1 and the causes of many mysterious occurrences in breweries at once become clear4 ,professor ,tyndall said of this discovery3 8,without knowing the cause1 the brewer not unfrequently incurred heavy losses through the use of bad yeast4 ,five minutes' examination with the microscope would have revealed to him the cause of the badness1 and prevented him from using the yeast4 ,he would have seen the true torula overpowered by foreign intruders4 ,the microscope is1 ,i believe now everywhere in use4 ,at ,burton-on-,trent its aid was very soon1 invoked40 ,the brewer has1 therefore1 to keep his wort free from foreign organisms #ddc other than the yeast plant4 ,when the wort is boiled1 any harmful organisms it may contain are killed1 and it can be indefinitely preserved even in a high temperature1 provided the air with which it comes in contact is free from the germs of the lower microscopic organisms4 ,pasteur's son-in-law1 in the account he has written of the great savant's life and labours1 says that some brewers have constructed an apparatus which enables them to protect the wort while it cools from the organisms of the air and to ferment it with a leaven as pure as possible4 ,at the ,exhibition of ,amsterdam were shown bottles only half full1 containing a perfectly clear beer which had been tapped from the opening of the ,exhibition4 ,as the causes of disease in beer are much the same as in wine1 the same preservative--heating--may be applied4 ,but beer differs from still wines in containing carbonic acid gas which heat displaces1 and as beer which has lost its briskness is not pleasant drinking1 it can only be advantageously so treated when contained in bottles4 ,both in ,europe and ,america1 says ,m4 ,pasteur's son-in-law1 the heating of beer is practised on a large scale4 ,the process is called ,pasteuration and the beer ,pasteurised beer4 ,a very high temperature1 as we have shown1 kills the germs of disease in wine and beer4 ,extreme cold has the effect of indefinitely suspending the action of the ferment4 ,a moderate temperature seems most favourable to the action of the organisms which work the wondrous changes in the wort4 ,in ,england beer is usually fermented at a temperature of between #fj and #gj ,fahr41 and the process only lasts a day or two4 ,in ,germany the general practice is to ferment at about #dj1 a temperature maintained by means of vessels containing ice1 which are thrown into the fermenting tuns4 ,this lower temperature checks the action of the ferment and the process lasts for fifteen or even twenty days4 ,the only other point to be noticed here in connection with fermentation is the peculiar fact discovered by ,pasteur1 that the organisms causing the ferment can live without air4 ,when the wort is in the fermenting tun1 the sides of the tun1 together with the heavy carbonic acid gas hanging over the surface of the wort1 exclude all air from the organisms1 which can only obtain a small amount of oxygen from the liquid4 ,there is1 in fact1 life without air4 ,pasteur made some interesting experiments which showed that there was a great difference in the action of the organisms according as they were placed in deep vats1 cut off from the air by the carbonic acid gas1 or in flat-bottomed #ddd wooden troughs with sides a few inches high4 ,in this latter situation the life of the ferment seemed enhanced1 but the amount of sugar decomposed by the organisms was proportionately different from that decomposed in the vats4 ,in the vats one ounce of ferment decomposed from seventy to a hundred and fifty ounces of sugar1 while in the troughs the same quantity of ferment decomposed only five or six ounces of sugar4 ,the experiment showed that the more the yeast was exposed to the air1 the less was its power as a ferment1 and that there is a remarkable relation between fermentation and life without air4 ,dumas once said to ,pasteur before the ,academy of ,sciences3 8,you have discovered a third kingdom--the kingdom to which those organisms belong which1 with all the prerogatives of animal life1 do not require air for their existence1 and which find the heat that is necessary for them in the chemical decompositions which they set up around them40 ,illustration #dde ,illustration ,,index4 ,a4 ,adulteration of ,beer ''' #dbc-d ,ale ,drinkers1 ,great ''' #dba ,ale1 ,english1 on the ,continent ''' #dad ,ale-bench1 ,the ''' #aij ,ale-berry1 or ,ale-brue ''' #chc ,ale-bush1 ,the ''' #baf ,ale-conners ''' #ajf1 #aji ,ale-draper ''' #aij ,ale-founder ''' #ajg ,ale-gafol ''' #ce ,ale-garland1 ,the ''' #baf ,ale-house ,lattices ''' #ahh ,ale-house ,poetry ''' #bbf ,ale-houses in ,medival ,times ''' #ahg ,ale-houses in sixteenth and seventeenth centuries ''' #ahh1 #aia ,ale-houses1 ,suppression of ''' #aaj ,ale-pole1 ,the ''' #baf ,ale-sellers in fourteenth century1 ,tricks by ''' #ci ,ale-stake ''' #ajh1 #bae1 #bai ,ale-taster ''' #aji ,ale-wives ''' #ajd1 #abd-f1 #abh-i1 #acd1 #aib1 #bae1 #cad ,ale-wife's ,supplication ''' #abi ,ale-yard1 ,the ''' #dja ,alice ,everade1 a ,brewster ''' #ajd ,all is ours and our ,husbands ''' #aab ,allsopp and ,sons1 ,messrs4 ''' #ccf ,ancient ,britons1 ,use of ,beer by the ''' #a1 #bh ,angel at ,islington1 ,the ''' #aih ,answer of ,ale to the ,challenge of ,sack ''' #h ,apricot ,ale ''' #chf ,arboga1 ,beer of ''' #aha ,armenia1 ,xenophon's account of ,beer in #dja ,b4,c4 ''' #bg ,arraigning and ,indicting of ,sir ,john ,barleycorn1 ,knight ''' #bj ,assize of ,ale ''' #ii1 #ajb-c1 #abi ,atkinson1 ,richard1 ,advice to ,lord ,dacre ''' #h ,b4 ,bacchanalian ,joys ,defeated ''' #aib 8,baiersk l0 ''' #ahj ,ballad on ,ale1 ,gay's ''' #dch ,banbury ,ale ''' #aga ,baptism in ,ale ''' #ch1 #dja ,barclay1 ,perkins ,co4 ''' #cda1 #cfh ,barrel of ,humming ,ale1 ,the ''' #ab ,barnstable ,ale ''' #agb ,bass1 ,ratcliffe and ,gretton1 ,messrs4 ''' #cdc ,bavarian ,beer ''' #ahj ,bede-ales ''' #ii ,beer1 an ,american ,poem ''' #ac ,beer ,brewers1 ,the ''' #adc1 #adg ,beer ,powders ''' #agf ,beer ,street1 ,hogarth's ''' #af ,beer1 the ,temperance ,drink ''' #af1 #ah ,bees1 ,beer used in taking ,swarms of ''' #djc ,ben ,jonson ''' #bje ,beowulf1 ,mention of ,ale in ''' #cc ,bid-ales ''' #bgb ,birthday ,ode1 ,a1 by ,peter ,pindar ''' #ceg ,bitter ,beer1 ancient cure for ,leprosy among the ,jews ''' #bf ,black ,boy ,inn1 ,chelmsford1 ,the ''' #bbj ,black ,jacks ''' #cif ,blackberry ,ale ''' #chf ,blind ,pinneaux ''' #che ,boar's ,head in ,eastcheap1 ,the ''' #bjc ,boorde1 ,andrew1 on ,ale and ,beer ''' #f ,boozer ''' #bf ,borage ''' #cij ,boswell1 ,anecdote of ''' #bib ,bottled ,beer1 ,origin of1 etc4 ''' #agh ,bragget3 ,bragawd ''' #aga1 #cgh ,brasenose ,college ,poems1 and ,ale ''' #g1 #afe1 #chi ,breakfast1 ,ale at ''' #bgd1 #bge ,brewer's ,coachman1 ,the ''' #adh ,brewers' ,company1 ,historical ,notes on the1 etc4 ''' #acd1 #acg1 #adc1 #adg ,brewers of old ,london1 ,the ''' #abc1 #adf ,brewers' ,plea2 or1 a ,vindication of ,strong ,beer 7#afdg7 ''' #aaf ,brewhouse 7,german7 of the sixteenth century ''' #aca ,brewhouse in sixteenth century1 ,contents of ''' #ef ,brewing at the present day ''' #cca ,brewing in a ,teapot ''' #b1 #cci ,brewing ,trade in #abig1 ,legislation concerning the ''' #acd ,brewing ,trade1 ,regulations for1 in the fifteenth century ''' #ajd ,brewsters ''' #ajj ,bride-,ales ''' #bfi1 #bgb ,brown ,betty ''' #chi 1 8,britain0 derived from ''' #ca ,bryng us in ,good ,ale ''' #bcj ,burton ,ales ''' #afj ,burton ,ale2 a ,song ''' #afa ,burton-on-,trent1 ,historical ,account of1 etc4 ''' #cce ,butler's ,ale1 ,dr4 ''' #dac ,buttered ,beere ''' #che1 #dac ,buxton1 ,jedediah1 a ,great ,beer ,drinker ''' #bic ,c4 ,cakes and ,ale ''' #dc1 #bci ,cambridge ,ale at ,stourbridge ,fair ''' #aje ,castle ,coombe1 ,ancient ,regulations concerning ,brewing at ''' #ajg ,caton1 ,cornelius1 of the ,white ,lion1 ,richmond ''' #aid ,cereris ,vinum ''' #bh ,cerevisia ''' #bh ,charity1 ,ale ,distributed in ''' #ahd1 #bgh ,chaucer's ,reference to ,ale ''' #dj ,chavelier de ,malte1 ,the ''' #adi ,chester ,ale ''' #afb ,china ,ale ''' #chf ,christian ,ale ''' #bga ,christmas ,carol1 ,an ,ancient ''' #bfc ,christmas ,customs ''' #bci1 #bfd ,christopher ,north's ,brewhouse ''' #fa ,church ,ales ''' #bci1 #bff-gj ,churches1 ,ale ,sold in ''' #bgb ,clamber-clown ''' #che ,clerk ,ales ''' #bgj ,cobbett on ,homebrew1 in #ahba1 #df ,cock ,ale ''' #che ,cock ,tavern1 ,the ''' #bji ,clia ''' #bh ,coggie o' ,yill1 a ,song ''' #cbi ,cold ,tankard ''' #cij ,collistrigium ''' #aja ,complete ,angler1 ,the1 ,sold under the ,king's ,head ,tavern ''' #bje ,consumption cured by ,ale ''' #dad ,cookery1 ,beer used in ''' #djc ,cooperage1 sixteenth century1 ,a ''' #ccd ,cooper1 ,origin of the ,drink ''' #cge ,coopers1 ,brewers forbidden to act as ''' #aac ,coopers of ,old ,london ''' #aci ,copus-,cup ''' #cia ,cornhill1 ,the ,taverns of ''' #bjc ,cost of ,brewing in the sixteenth century ''' #eg ,cotswold ,games1 ,the ''' #bdg ,country ,sports and ,pastimes1 ,herrick upon ''' #bcc ,cowslip ,ale ''' #chf ,crown and ,anchor1 ,strand1 ,the ''' #baa ,cucking ,stool1 ,a ,punishment for ,ale-wives ''' #ajb ,cuckoo ,ales ''' #bgb ,curmi ''' #bh ,cwrw ''' #bh ,d4 ,darby ,ale ''' #afb ,dawson1 ,john1 ,butler of ,christchurch1 ,oxford ''' #afg ,derivations of 8,ale0 and 8,beer0 ''' #cb ,devil ,inn1 ,fleet ,street1 ,the ''' #bjh ,dietetic uses of ,ale ''' #bgc ,dinton ,hermit1 ,the ''' #bgg ,distinctions between ,ale and ,beer ''' #f1 #cb1 #aeb ,dogsnose ''' #chh 8,doll thi1 doll1 doll this ,ale1 dole0 ''' #djd ,domestic uses of ,ale ''' #djc ,donaldson's ,beer-cup ''' #cia ,dorchester ,ales ''' #agb ,dover's ,games ''' #bdg ,drinke and ,welcome ''' #d1 #da1 #adg1 #aec1 #aeh1 #afa1 #ahh1 #dad ,drinking ,customs ''' #bgi1 #bhj1 #bij1 #chc ,drinking ,vessels ''' #cic ,drink-,lean ''' #bdg ,drunkenness in ,olden ,times ''' #ajh1 #aad1 #aaf1 #bhb1 #bib ,e4 ,early ,closing1 temp4 ,edward ,i4 ''' #aji ,edinburgh ,ales ''' #afi ,egg-,ale ''' #chg ,egg-hot ''' #chh ,egypt1 ,ancient use of ,beer in ''' #be ,egypt1 ,suppression of ,beer ,shops in ''' #a1 #be ,elderberry ,beer ''' #chf ,english ,ale1 famous among foreigners in fourteenth century ''' #cg ,epitaphs on ,ale-drinkers1 ,brewers1 and ,innkeepers ''' #aej1 #afd1 #aif1 #bjh ,eucharist1 use of ,ale in the ,administration of the ''' #djb ,everlasting ,club1 ,the ''' #bad ,export of ,ale in ,ancient ,times ''' #aac ,extraordinary ,tithes ''' #ia ,f4 ,falcon ,inn1 ,chester1 ,the ''' #aig ,falcon ,tavern1 ,bankside1 ,the ''' #bje ,farmer's ,delight in the ,merry ,harvest1 ,the ''' #bec ,farmer's ,return1 ,hogarth's ''' #de ,fever ,cases cured by ,ale ''' #dae ,fire1 ,ale used to ,extinguish ''' #djg ,fish1 ,ale used as ,food for ''' #djb ,fishing ,lines1 ,ale used to ,stain ''' #djb ,flip ''' #chh1 #chi ,foot ,ales ''' #bgc ,fowls1 ,beer as a ,drink for ''' #djc ,foxcomb ''' #che ,francis ,francis on ,bitter ,beer ''' #e ,freemason's ,cup ''' #cia ,frozen ,ale ''' #afi ,furry ,day at ,helston1 ,the ''' #bdd ,g4 ,gentleman's ,cellar of the twelfth century ''' #eb ,george ,inn1 ,salisbury1 ,the ''' #aif ,german ,beer ''' #agh1 #ahj ,geste of ,kyng ,horn1 ,extract from ''' #cb ,gin ,lane1 ,hogarth's ''' #ag ,give ,ales ''' #bgb ,glutton-,masses ''' #bhf ,good ,ale for my ,money1 a ,ballad ''' #cag ,grace-cup1 ,the ''' #chd ,grains ''' #ade1 #djc ,grand ,concern of ,england1 etc41 ,the 7#afgc7 ''' #aah ,greyheards1 ,anecdote of the ''' #cih ,grout ,ale ''' #afd ,guild ,feasts ''' #bga ,guinness1 ,messrs ''' #cdh ,gustator ,cervisi ''' #ajg ,h4 ,hacket1 ,marian1 ,ale-wife ''' #abh ,hal-an-low1 ,the2 a ,song ''' #bdd ,halders1 ,dame1 of ,norwich1 ,ale-wife1 ,anecdote of ''' #aib ,hanaps ''' #cie ,harrison on ,homebrew and ,malting in #aehg1 #ed ,harvest ,home ,customs and ,songs ''' #bef-i ,harwood1 ,ralph1 supposed ,inventor of ,porter ''' #cff ,haymaker's ,song1 ,the ''' #beb ,health to all ,good ,fellowes1 a ,ballad ''' #cbe ,heather ,ale ''' #age ,heaving ''' #bda ,help ,ales ''' #bgb ,herodotus on ,egyptian ,brewing ''' #be ,herrick ''' #ae ,hicks1 ,william1 ,brewer to the ,king ''' #adi ,high and ,mightie ,commendation of a ,pot of ,good ,ale ''' #ga1 #cbj ,highgate ,oath1 ,the ''' #aih ,hobby ,horse ,dance ''' #bci ,hock-,cart1 ,the ''' #bed ,hock-tide ''' #bda ,hollowing ,bottle1 ,the ''' #bee ,homebrew and ,malting1 ,earliest ,account of ''' #dg ,hop-bine ,ensilage ''' #hb ,hop-,gardens of ,england ''' #hg ,hop-,growers' ,troubles ''' #hi ,hop-growing countries of ,europe ''' #hg ,hop-,pickers ''' #ib ,hop-poles and wires ''' #hh ,hop-,searchers ''' #gj ,hop-,substitutes ''' #gh ,hop-,substitutes1 ,anecdote ''' #dbe ,hops1 ,early ,introduction into ,england of ''' #fg ,hops1 ,early ,mention of ''' #ff ,hops in ,america and ,australia ''' #hg ,hops in ,saxon times ''' #ff ,hops1 ,legislation concerning ''' #gc1 #gh ,hops1 ,medicinal uses of ''' #he ,hops1 ,mention of1 in the ,city ,records ''' #fh ,hops1 ,prosecutions for using ''' #fi ,hops1 ,various uses of ''' #hb1 #hd ,horkey ,beer1 ,the ''' #bef ,horses' ,feet ,washed with ,ale ''' #djb ,hospitality in ,england in ,early ,times ''' #ahc1 #aij ,hot ,pint ''' #bcg ,hot ,pot ''' #chh ,how ,mault doth deale with ,everyone1 a ,ballad ''' #cja ,huff-cap ''' #aef ,huff-cup ''' #dba ,hugmatee ''' #che ,hum-cup ''' #aeh1 #chh ,humming ,ale ''' #aeh ,humpty-,dumpty ''' #che ,humulus ,japonicus ''' #hb ,hungerford ,park1 ,a ,beer ,cup ''' #cia ,hymele ''' #ff ,hypocras ''' #chd ,i4 ,ind1 ,coope ,co41 ,messrs4 ''' #cea ,inn-keepers1 ,anecdotes of ''' #aib ,ireland1 ,malt ,liquors in ''' #cj ,isaak ,walton on ,barley ,wine ''' #aia ,j4 ,jillian of ,berry1 ,ale-wife ''' #abh ,johnson1 ,dr4 ''' #ahb1 #bji ,jolly ,good ,ale and ,old ''' #aa ,k4 ,kentish ,hop ,gardens1 ,origin of ''' #gj ,kent1 ,restrictive ,enactment on ,malting and ,brewing in ''' #aaj ,king ,james and the ,tinkler1 a ,ballad ''' #dje ,knock-me-down ''' #che ,l4 ,laboragol ''' #afd ,labouring ,classes1 ,advantage of ,ale to ''' #dbe1 #dcc ,lager ,beer ''' #agi ,lamb-,ales ''' #bgb ,lambswool ''' #cha ,lamentable ,complaints of ,nick ,froth1 ,the ''' #aag ,lamentations of the ,porter ,vat1 etc4 ''' #cga ,leet ,ales ''' #bgb ,licensing ,laws in ,ancient ,times ''' #aac ,little ,barley-,corn1 ,the1 a ,ballad ''' #cjc ,london ,ale ''' #afj ,london ,chanticleers1 ,the1 ,song from ''' #cjf ,london ,taverns ''' #ahc ,lord of the ,tap ''' #aje ,loving-,cup1 ,the ''' #chd ,lupuline ''' #hj1 #hf ,lupus ,salictarius ''' #fe ,m4 ,magpie and ,crown1 ,the ''' #bba ,malt ,liquor v4 ,cheap ,french ,wines ''' #aj ,malt1 ,medicinal ,preparations of ''' #dag ,malt1 ,sermon on ''' #bhi ,malting and ,brewing by ,women ,servants in #afaj1 #dg ,malting in ,early ,times ''' #abj ,manchester ,ale ''' #afb ,mary-,ales ''' #bgc ,maule1 ,mr4 ,justice1 ,anecdote of ''' #cgf ,may-,day ,customs ''' #bda-e ,measures1 ,legislation concerning ''' #aja ,medical ,opinions1 ,ancient and ,modern1 on ,ale and ,beer ''' #djc1 #djh1 #dai1 #dcc ,mermaid in ,bread ,street1 ,the ''' #bjf ,merry ,bagpipes1 ,the ''' #bea ,merry ,fellows1 ,the1 a ,song ''' #bij ,merry ,hoastess1 ,the1 a ,ballad ''' #cjh ,meux's1 ,bursting of the ,great ,vat1 etc4 ''' #cfh1 #cga ,midsummer-,ales ''' #bgb ,mitre1 ,fleet ,street1 ,the ''' #baj ,monasteries1 ,entertainment at ''' #ahc ,monday's ,work1 a ,ballad ''' #cbf ,monks as ,brewers and ,beer-drinkers ''' #cg1 #da1 #ej1 #if1 #bhe ,morocco1 ,a ,strong ,ale ''' #afi ,moss ,ale1 ,irish ''' #agf ,mother-in-,law ''' #cib ,mother ,louse1 ,ale-wife ''' #abi ,muggling ''' #bij ,mug ,house ,club1 ,the ''' #bac ,mulled ,ale ''' #cgh ,mum ''' #agb ,n4 ,newcastle ,beer ''' #afh ,newcastle ,cloak ''' #aaf ,newe from ,bartholomew ,fayre ''' #bjc ,newnton1 ,curious ,custom at ''' #bga ,nippitatum3 ,strong ,ale ''' #aeg ,norfolk ,ales--,norfolk ,nog ''' #aga ,northdown ,ale ''' #afb1 #aga1 #che ,north1 ,florence1 ,ale-wife ''' #bae ,norwegian ,beer ''' #ahj ,nottingham ,ale ''' #afb1 #afg1 #baj ,o4 ,october ,club1 ,the ''' #bab ,ode to ,sir ,john ,barleycorn ''' #bj ,old ,ale1 ,the3 an ,anecdote ''' #ae ,old ,parr ''' #dba ,origin of ,ale ''' #be1 #db ,origin of ,beer1 ,the ''' #bi ,origin of ,inns1 ,the ''' #ahe ,p4 ,panala ,alacatholica ''' #dab ,panegyric on ,ale ''' #afe ,panegyric on ,oxford ,ale ''' #ac ,parnell1 ,paul1 ,a ,great ,beer ,drinker ''' #ei ,parsons1 ,humphrey1 ,brewer and ,lord ,mayor ''' #adi ,parson1 ,the1 a ,ballad ''' #bhg ,parsonage ,alehouses ''' #ahg ,parting ,cup1 ,the ''' #chi ,pasteur's ,discoveries ''' #dda ,patent ,brown ,stout ''' #cfi ,peg-tankards ''' #ig1 #cid ,pennilesse ,pilgrimage1 ,taylor's ''' #afb1 #afi1 #aij ,perfite ,platforme of a ,hoppe ,garden ''' #gc ,pharaoh ''' #aeh ,philosopher's ,banquet1 ,extract from ''' #dd ,pig ,drinking ,ale out of a ,jug ''' #ae ,pledging ''' #chc ,pliny on ,german ,beer ''' #bh ,plough ,monday ''' #bdj ,plum-pudding ,weighing #a1jjj lbs41 ,the ''' #bjc ,pointes of ,good ,huswiferie1 ,extract from ''' #ef ,pope ,innocent ,,iii41 ,anecdote of ''' #cf ,porter at ,oxford ''' #cfg ,porter ,drinkers1 ,actors and ,actresses as ''' #cgd ,porter in ,ireland ''' #cgc ,porter1 ,origin of ''' #cfe ,porter1 ,professor ,wilson on ''' #cgj ,posset ,ale ''' #che ,pot of ,porter oh 6 ,a ''' #cgf ,proverbs of ,hendyng 7thirteenth century7 ''' #ch ,purl ''' #chg1 #chi ,pye upon the ,pear ,tree ,top1 ,the ''' #bef ,q4 ,queen ,elizabeth's ,breakfast ''' #bge ,quod ,petis ,hic ,est ''' #cbh ,r4 ,rape of ,lucrece1 ,the ''' #bjd ,receipts for ,keeping and ,flavouring ,homebrew ''' #fb ,rents ,paid in ,ale ''' #ce ,rheumatism cured by ,new ,ale ''' #daf ,robin ,rough1 the ,plowboy ''' #dbf ,rouen1 ,english ,beer at1 in #aehb1 #aac ,roxburghe ,ballads1 ,the ''' #bie ,ruddle ''' #chh ,rumyng1 ,eleanor ''' #abf1 #baf1 #bbc ,russia1 ,burton ,ale ,exported to ''' #cch ,russia1 ,burton ,beer in ''' #aha ,s4 ,salt ,co41 ,messrs4 ''' #cec ,saxon ,leechdoms ''' #aea ,scarcity of labour in fourteenth century ''' #ci ,scot-,ales ''' #ih1 #bfg1 #bgb ,scotch ,ales ''' #afi1 #agj1 #aga ,scotland1 ,ale ,brewing and ,selling in ,early ,times ''' #abi ,scotland1 ,assize of ,ale1 etc41 in ''' #abi ,scurvy cured by ,ale ''' #dah ,senchus ,mor1 ,references to ,ale in the ''' #cj ,shakspere and ,ale ''' #bjc1 #bgj1 #dbh ,shandy ,gaff ''' #cib ,sheep-shearing ,customs and ,songs ''' #bej ,sicera ''' #bf ,sign of the ,red ,lion1 ,the1 an ,anecdote ''' #bbi ,signboard and ,alehouse ,poetry ''' #baa1 #bbc-g ,signboard ,artists ''' #bbh ,signboards ''' #bad-bj ,sir ,john ,barley-corne1 ,the ,ballad ''' #bie ,skelton's ,ghost ''' #aaj1 #aec ,small ,beer ''' #aei1 #afj1 #bgg1 #bhd ,smoke ,question in ,london1 ,early ,mention of the ''' #adf ,songs of the ,session1 ,extract from ''' #ad ,sonnet on ,christmas ''' #bfb ,spiced ,ale ''' #chb ,st4 ,dunstan1 ,legend of ''' #ig ,steen1 ,jan1 ,brewer1 temp4 ,chas4 ,,ii4 ''' #adh ,stephony ''' #che ,stickback ''' #che ,stiffle ''' #che ,stout ''' #cgd ,strength of ,malt ,liquors ,compared ''' #aed ,sugar ,beer ''' #agg ,sulphuring of ,hops ''' #ha ,sunday ,closing in ,early ,times ''' #aae ,superstitions relating to ,beer and ,ale ''' #bgh ,swanne ,taverne1 ,the1 by ,charing ,cross ''' #bjg ,swift's ,polite ,conversation on ,homebrew ''' #ei ,symposii nigmata1 ,a ,saxon ,riddle ''' #cd ,t4 ,tabard1 ,the ''' #bjj ,tapstere1 ,the ,chester ''' #abe ,taverns of ,old ,london ''' #ahh1 #bjc ,taxes on ,ale ''' #ch ,taylor's1 ,john1 ,signboard ''' #baa ,temperance ,drinks ''' #cgc ,temperance v4 ,total ,abstinence ''' #ad1 #ai1 #dbc1 #dbi ,tewahdiddle ''' #chi ,thames ,water used in ,brewing ''' #abb ,thrale's ,brewery ''' #cdj1 #cfh ,time's ,alterations1 or the ,old ,man's ,rehersal ''' #cif ,timothy ,burrell1 ,extracts from the ,journal of ''' #ei ,tinker's ,song1 ,herrick's ''' #bia ,tithe ,ale ''' #agb1 #bgc ,toasting ''' #chc ,toby ,philpot ''' #cii ,toll on ,ale ''' #ce ,toper1 drink1 and help the house ''' #ae ,treacle ,beer ''' #agg ,treatise of ,walter de ,biblesworth ''' #dg ,trinity ,audit ''' #afe ,truman1 ,hanbury1 ,buxton ,co41 ,messrs4 ''' #cee1 #cff ,tumbrel1 ,punishment of the ''' #ajj ,tusser on ,hops ''' #gf ,twelfth-day ,customs ''' #bch ,typhus-fever1 ,malt ,liquor beneficial in ''' #dai ,v4 ,village ,alehouse1 ,the ''' #ahf ,vinegar made from ,malt ,liquor ''' #djc ,w4 ,wadlow1 ,sim ''' #bjh ,wages ,paid ,anciently in ,ale ''' #cf ,warme ,beere1 ,verses in ,commendation of ''' #daj ,warrington ,ale ''' #afh ,wassail ,bowl1 ,the ''' #chj ,wassailing ''' #bcd ,wassailing the ,fruit ,trees ''' #bcf ,weddyn ,ales ''' #bgb ,welsh ,ales ''' #cj1 #aga ,weobley ,ale ''' #abg1 #aga ,wheat ,malt1 ,ancient ,use of ''' #aje ,whitbread ,co41 ,messrs4 ''' #cei1 #cfh ,white ,ale1 ,devonshire ''' #afc ,whitington and the ,london ,brewers ''' #ace ,whitsuntide ,ales and ,customs ''' #bdf1 #bfg ,will ,russell1 a ,ballad ''' #aie ,wine1 ,beer1 ,ale and ,tobacco2 a ,dialogue ''' #gb 8,wine is but ,single ,broth0 ''' #i ,women ,brewers ''' #abd ,x4 ,x1 ,origin of the ,symbol ''' #aac ,y4 ,yorkshire ,ale ''' #afa ,yorkshire ,ale1 ,the ,praise of3 ,a ,poem ''' #cab ,z4 ,zythum ''' #bh ,illustration ,transcriber's ,note4 ,original spelling and grammar have been generally retained1 with some exceptions noted below4 ,original printed page numbers are shown like this3 #eb4 ,original small caps are now uppercase4 ,italics look like this4 ,footnotes have been relabeled #a-ge1 and moved from within paragraphs to nearby locations between paragraphs4 ,the transcriber produced the cover image and hereby assigns it to the public domain4 ,superscripted letters are shown as for examples3 8ye01 or 8,matie404 ,original page images are available from archive4org--search for 8cu#caibdjbihidgei04 ,the poetry indents are approximately correct in limited circumstances4 ,the indents were measured and adjusted using a monospace font3 8,adobe ,source ,code ,pro04 ,variable-width fonts will look less accurate4 ,page ii4 ,the third word of the caption seems to read 8,bremhoue0 7printed in what appears to the transcriber to be a variety of bastard script71 but has been rendered herein in the more likely 8,brewhoue04 ,page #be4 ,changed 8,what ha h been0 to 8,what hath been04 ,page #bg4 ,changed 80--wherein the omicron was accented with psili and perispomeni--to 804 ,page #ce4 ,in the phrase 8pay as toll to the lord gallons of ale01 a number was missing4 ,page #cen4 ,the footnote read 8#a ,the translation is taken from ,nineteen ,centuries of ,drink in ,england401 but there was no anchor on the page4 ,possibly this note refers to the ,symposium nigmata that ends at the top of the page4 ,page #ch4 ,the first footnote on the page had no anchor4 ,a new anchor was installed after the word 8male101 on the second line of the poem4 ,page #di4 ,closing quotation mark was added after the line 8,parlom ore de autre chose40 ,page #gd1 #gi4 ,these full-page illustrations have been moved out of their original locations inside poems to nearby locations below or above1 and the corresponding page numbers have been removed4 ,full-page illustrations likewise situated in other places in the book have been likewise treated4 ,page #he4 ,full stop was added after 8sometimes when opium failed04 ,page #ajjn4 ,there was no anchor for the footnote2 a new one has been inserted after the word 8brewster0 at the top of the page4 ,page #ahjn4 ,the footnote had no anchor4 ,a new anchor has been inserted for this note1 on page #agi4 ,page #ahd4 ,changed 8religous0 to 8religious04 ,page #bjhn4 ,the last word1 partially illegible1 is herein rendered 8out404 ,page #bce4 ,the phrase 8bring us a bowl of the bes0 was changed to 8bring us a bowl of the best104 ,page #bfd4 ,changed 8carry ing over hilland dale0 to 8carrying over hill and dale04 ,page #bhd4 ,changed 8trusted1 as we bear0 to 8trusted1 as we hear01 and 8strirre0 to 8stirre04 ,page #cben4 ,a new footnote anchor was inserted after 8he that made1 made two404 ,page #cdb4 ,full stop added after 8dilutes his clay04 ,page #dcc4 ,changed 8to live in a wine-growing1 country will0 to 8to live in a wine-growing country1 will04 ,page #dce4 ,changed 8alcholic0 to 8alcoholic04 ,page #ddi4 ,changed 8,weobly ,ale0 to 8,weobley ,ale04