,i ,go ,a-,marketing ,by ,,henrietta ,,sowle 7,,henriette7 ,illustration ,,boston ,,little1 ,,brown ,,and ,,company ,,mdcccc ,copyright1 #aijj1 by ,,little1 ,,brown1 ,,and ,,company4 ,,university ,,press ,,john ,,wilson ,,and ,,son ,,cambridge1 ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 ,,to ,,mr4 ,,edward ,h4 ,,clement ,,contents ,,page ,january #a ,february #bj ,march #dc ,april #fd ,may #gh ,june #id ,july #aaj ,august #abh ,september #adb ,october #aff ,november #ahh ,december #bji ,index #bcc ,author's ,note ,,before dipping into this book very far1 reader 7pray note that ,i cozen you with neither gentle nor dear71 allow me to suggest that you familiarize yourself with the spirit of ,emerson1 who has allowed that the truly consistent person changes his mind whenever occasion offers4 ,then you will be in a frame of mind to acknowledge that ,i have but exercised my privilege if you chance upon passages that seem to put me in a self-contradictory position4 ,i hold to one opinion till new or increased light shows me ,i would do well to change1 no longer4 ,is it necessary1 ,i wonder1 to say that this compilation of persiflage and cookery is not intended to be the whole culinary library of any housekeeper8 ,in case it may be believed that ,i have any such inflated idea of its value1 let me say at once that any housekeeper who secures this book1 by buying or by borrowing1 will want just as many of the old-line cook-books at hand as if she had never heard of it4 ,its mission is a supplementary one4 ,it is for those dark and dreary days when the housekeeper wants something good1 but cannot say what4 ,it suggests4 ,therein is all of beauty and use1 for beauty is truth1 truth beauty1 that is all ye know and all ye need to know4 ,furthermore1 it is for the housekeeper who knows by experience1 or intuition1 how to lay a fire1 and how to broil a steak4 ,with kindergarten methods it does not deal--it rather takes it for granted that it will fall into the hands of those who have been graduated from kindergarten cookery4 ,neither does it attempt to set forth the duties of butlers or of housemaids4 ,it goes on the principle rather that the housekeeper who supports these factotums knows what their duties should be4 ,and is there any necessity for those who cannot attain to such appointments burdening their minds with knowledge never to be used8 ,think on all these things omitted when you are getting inspiration from this slender source1 and be thankful that ,i have shown so much consideration for you4 ,read my little fable3 ,he that runs may read4 ,most can raise the flowers now1 ,for all have got the seed4 ,i ,go ,a-,marketing ,,january ,still ,beauty must be stealing hearts1 ,and knavery stealing purses2 ,still cooks must live by making tarts ,and wits by making verses4 ,,some fine day1 perchance1 ,i shall to market go and find there what all housekeepers are a-sighin' and a-cryin' for--namely a new edible2 and be it fish1 flesh1 or fowl1 ,i shall1 with all haste1 make you acquainted with its nature1 and with the name of the marketman who introduces the boon2 and methinks that nothing short of canonization should reward the man1 or woman1 who finds something new under the sun4 ,but till that blessed day of discovery really arrives ,i must be content with telling you of ways that may be new and tricks that are worth trying for the serving of viands which have constituted human nature's daily food since the world began4 ,unless1 however1 ,i can bring to your minds by my suggestions a state of contentment which will enable you to await that hour of revealment with patience almost amounting to indifference1 my duty is but half done4 ,sausages ,so here goes for a beginning4 ,don't you ever feel quite dissatisfied with the ordinary1 yes and the extraordinary1 sausages of commerce8 ,of course you do4 ,no need to ask4 ,they are flat1 there's no gainsaying it4 ,but it's the easiest thing in the world to have home-made sausages seasoned to a point that will make them things of gastronomical joy4 ,there must be equal quantities of lean and fat fresh pork finely minced2 then to a pound of this meat add one-quarter of an ounce of salt1 more or less1 one-eighth of an ounce of good business-like pepper1 more or less1 and powdered sage ad lib4 ,the use of seasoning1 you see1 is not bound by any hard and fast rules2 in cases of this kind a due regard must be shown the whims and fancies of the palates to be pleased4 ,once you have added the proper amount of seasoning1 add enough well beaten egg to allow of the mixture being moulded to any desired shape1 and fried to a nice brown4 ,and there you have a dish fit to put before a king4 ,if the simplicity and homeliness of it somewhat upsets your equilibrium1 why call it saucisses grilles2 they'll taste just as well4 ,they can be served either upon rounds of toasted bread or upon a foundation of cold boiled potatoes which have been diced and heated in cream4 ,if you are having them for luncheon then serve them on toast1 but with the addition of a tomato pure4 ,no need to tell how to make that2 it's an old story4 ,broiled ,pork ,chops2 ,piquant ,sauce ,another old story1 altogether too old1 is the way most housekeepers have of frying pork chops4 ,they should never be fried4 ,the only respectable way is to broil them decently and in order over a hot bed of coals4 ,in that way what little juice they contain will be retained4 ,but even then they will be so dry that you must supplement them with something1--say a sauce made of half a pint of good clear stock1 highly seasoned1 and having in it a tablespoonful of chopped pickled peppers and some sliced gherkins1 with the juice of a lemon added4 ,apple ,croquettes ,or1 you can serve with them apple croquettes1 made by stewing the apples in a little butter1 with a tiny bit of sugar2 when quite cold1 with the aid of a few bread-crumbs1 shape the apple into croquettes1 roll them in crumbs and beaten egg and fry4 ,arrange the croquettes1 which must be not more than an inch in diameter1 with the chops upon a platter in any fanciful way that suggests itself to you1 and the condition of the platter at the end of the meal will tell you whether or not the experiment was worth the trying4 ,roasted ,pork with ,onion ,sauce ,these croquettes will win favor for themselves if you will try serving them some time with a loin of fresh pork1 roasted4 ,you will want to serve with them only the simplest kind of clear gravy4 ,but you may prefer to serve the roasted loin of pork on steamed rice garnished with button onions1 which have been boiled till fairly tender and then fried in butter to a light brown4 ,if this is your preference1 make a sauce by frying in two gills of oil1 half a pound of minced onion1 a pinch of parsley leaves1 a crushed clove of garlic and a bay leaf1 with salt and pepper2 dilute with a pint of good stock1 preferably white2 strain and finish by adding the juice of a lemon and an ounce of fresh butter4 ,by the way1 when fresh pork is to be roasted1 it is an excellent plan to rub salt well into it about twenty-four hours before cooking4 ,if you slice and serve it cold you will readily see the wisdom of giving the salt a chance to work its way through and season the whole loin4 ,roasted ,ham ,when a ham is to be roasted1 and small hams do make excellent roasts1 a ham of about five pounds' weight should be skinned and boiled in enough water to cover it2 in this water you will want to put1 just for variety's sake1 a carrot1 an onion1 three bay-leaves1 three cloves1 one clove of garlic1 and six peppercorns4 ,boil very gently for about one hour2 then remove from the fire1 drain it well1 and coat it with a paste of oil and flour4 ,be sure that it is well covered with the paste to prevent the escape of the juice1 put into the oven and roast for about two hours4 ,cider ,sauce ,serve it with a sauce made of a sufficient quantity of the stock1 to which you have added half its amount of cider1 and there you behold what is commonly known as champagne sauce4 ,but1 bless you1 it's very doubtful if champagne is often used1 as after it is heated it would be a sensitive palate indeed that could tell whether champagne or cider were employed4 ,just a hint right here of what may be done with bits of cold ham1 for we may never be on this subject again4 ,have some thin slices of toasted white bread1 spread well with butter and a trifle of mustard1 then equal parts of grated cheese and minced ham1 and some cayenne pepper4 ,send to the oven for a few minutes1 or until the cheese is dissolved1 and serve immediately4 ,say what you will1 it is a delectable dish1 this ham toast1 and whether you allow for it in a prearranged luncheon or whether it is concocted on the impulse of the moment1 when the necessity suddenly arises for a dish of the kind1 trust me1 whoever partakes of it will vow that it relishes of wit and invention4 ,broiled ,pigs' ,feet ,perhaps this batch of suggestions would be incomplete with no reference in it to the cooking of pigs' feet1 and yet there's very little variety in the methods of preparing them4 ,the simplest is the best1 it seems to me1 and that is dipping them in melted butter1 then in bread-crumbs1 and broiling over a moderate fire4 ,a piquant sauce is by long odds the sauce par excellence to be served with them4 ,some chefs de cuisine prepare them elaborately with truffles1 to my mind1 however1 there's an incongruity in a combination of pork and truffles4 ,but of course it's only a matter of taste1 and it is more than possible that there will be some who read this and deplore my poor taste in devoting so much space to ways and means of cooking pork4 ,well1 to such ,i offer the suggestion that they call it a chapter on porcine potentials1 and pass on4 99 99 99 99 99 ,by all means let us be economical--truly economical4 ,but let us never make the grievous but common mistake of thinking that the buying of cheap1 downright cheap food is economy4 ,to commit such an error in judgment is to lay the cornerstone of more than one kind of unhappiness4 ,but you know that1 too4 ,and with so many inexpensive viands as there are to be had1 susceptible as they are of so many ways of serving1 one can1 with the exercise of a little judgment in such matters1 have the appearance of living high when in reality one is laying up money out of the weekly table allowance1 if one has such an institution in one's family4 ,for myself1 ,i have a great respect for a housekeeper who keeps within her allowance week in and week out1 year after year4 ,but for the one who cuts loose occasionally from all allowance limits when there is a good thing up ,i have the sincerest admiration and sympathy4 ,it is with such a one that ,i always feel tempted to outstay my welcome if ,i get the shadow of a chance to be so ill bred4 ,such an ignoring of trammels of the financial sort is an indication of truancy in other matters now and then that rather appeals to me1 to be very honest about it4 ,but ,i don't recommend it to you or to any one4 ,perhaps it hasn't a place here1 but since it is written it shall stand1 labelled ,en parenthse4 ,and we will talk of codfish--fresh codfish4 ,this is a species of the gadus family that is eligible for duty in a family of any class--high1 low1 or middle4 ,it may follow the soup at an unlimited course dinner and not be out of its element or it may form the pice de rsistance1 or in fact the only piece of any kind at a dinner of another sort and still be quite at home4 ,fresh ,codfish1 ,delmonico ,style2 ,broiled ,fresh ,codfish ,now let us get to business4 ,suppose that some day you have a piping hot oven that is as idle as you would like to be and that you have also a fresh codfish in the house split with the backbone removed for broiling4 ,let me suggest that you dry it well1 put it in a buttered baking pan1 skin side down1 coat it with melted butter1 sprinkle it with salt1 pepper1 lemon juice1 chopped parsley and chopped onion4 ,then bestrew it with bread crumbs moistened in melted butter and set into the oven to brown4 ,get it out as gracefully as possible when it is done1 flip a little melted butter and lemon juice over it and serve4 ,or1 if you can't break away from tradition and have sworn to have a broiled fish broiled then ,i am sure that you do keep within your allowance for the table and will treat the fish this way3 ,you will dry it well with a cloth1 then brush it with melted butter1 sprinkle salt and a little pepper1 put it on the buttered bars of the broiler1 and let the fire do the rest4 ,then after it is dished1 sprinkle it with perhaps a few capers1 surround it with broiled thin slices of bacon1 and be on the alert to catch the first expression that flits over the face of the one who furnishes you with the aforesaid table allowance to see if all is well with the fish and consequently with you4 ,am ,i right8 ,baked ,fresh ,codfish ,but ,i would be willing to wager the price of a whole catch of codfish that ,i can tell you of a bran new way to bake one4 ,read and see for yourself4 ,have the size that seems to find most favor in your family and fill it with a forcemeat made by mincing to paste a pound of raw codfish4 ,add to it half a pint of cream that has been just boiled1 that's all1 and thickened with two eggs4 ,season with salt1 a chopped onion--chopped so finely that it is of a paste consistency and fill the fish with the mixture4 ,for pepper let me suggest that you use paprika in preference to any other brand4 ,cook till the fish is done and serve with any rich sauce that appeals to you4 ,any or all of the foregoing recipes may be applied to haddock1 as you probably suspect--if you know anything at all about fish4 99 99 99 99 99 ,you don't know1 you housekeepers of ,america what a jolly good reputation you've got to live up to unless you happen to have read ,g4 ,w4 ,steevens's clever book1 ,the ,land of the ,dollar1 in which he says of our national breakfasts3 ,first you have fruit--wonderful pears that look like green stones and taste like the ,tree of ,life4 ,then mush1 so they call oatmeal porridge1 or wheatmeal porridge or hominy porridge1 a noble food with the nectarous ,american cream4 ,then fishes and meats1 sausages1 and bacon and eggs4 ,then strange farinaceous foods which you marvel to find yourself swallowing with avid gust--graham bread1 soda biscuits1 buckwheat or griddle cakes with butter and maple treacle4 ,it is magnificent2 but it is indigestion4 ,all the same1 ,i look forward to the day when ,america shall produce an invention that will let me go across the ,atlantic every morning for breakfast4 ,i shall take a season ticket4 ,now let my humble pen chip in two or three things that shall help you to live up to this estimate of you4 ,sweet ,corn ,croquettes ,suppose you are having a dish of fried eggs after a manner described later on in this book4 ,go still further1 and see fit to have some croquettes also4 ,do you know just what they should be8 ,if in doubt let them be of canned sweet corn4 ,mix with half a can of the corn two-thirds of its quantity of mashed potatoes1 salt and a good generous bit of melted butter4 ,then form into croquettes1 dip in beaten egg and crumbs and fry to a fine color in hot fat4 ,sublimated ,hash ,or1 as second choice1 you might like hash instead of the eggs fried4 ,now1 look here2 you know me well enough by this time1 ,i hope1 to believe that when ,i suggest hash it is none of the commonplace minces that you shun at the table of your very best friend4 ,of what ,i have to say in the line of hash you won't be overdoing the thing if you refer to it for evermore as a sublimated hash4 ,see for yourself3 ,chop an onion and fry it in a good bit of butter till it is tender and likewise brown4 ,then put into the butter two cupfuls of diced cold mutton1 diced not chopped1 and one cupful of diced cold boiled potatoes4 ,pepper and salt to your fancy4 ,then put in four tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce and have ready some chopped parsley for sprinkling over the dish when it is served4 ,rice ,muffins ,you might for a flyer try rice muffins with this hash4 ,have a cup of flour and sifted through it two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder4 ,add to it a tablespoonful of sugar1 a saltspoonful of salt1 and pass this through a sieve4 ,have three eggs well beaten in a cup of milk with half a cup of melted butter and stir into the flour4 ,when it is perfectly smooth add to it two cupfuls of cold boiled or steamed rice4 ,turn into small pans and bake in a hot oven4 ,by grating in a little nutmeg to these muffins you will have a delicious dish for luncheon4 ,rhode ,island ,johnnycake ,now1 our friend ,steevens spoke of griddle cakes and buckwheat cakes4 ,of these you know all that is necessary for any housekeeper to know4 ,but ,i'll wager a good sum that ,rhode ,island meal is an unknown quantity to you4 ,make its acquaintance then as soon as possible and set about having ,rhode ,island johnnycakes often4 ,you will want nothing but the meal1 some milk and salt4 ,have them considerably thinner than ordinary flour griddle cakes and fry in a little fat on a hot griddle so that the edges are crisp and toothsome4 ,if you want to bake them have a cup of meal to a cup and one-half of milk with a pinch of salt1 and bake in gem pans till brown4 ,instead of having butter with either the fried or baked specimens of this johnnycake try some of our nectarous cream4 ,is it a go8 99 99 99 99 99 ,now and then1 throughout this book1 the directions for making a salad are brought in incidentally to the main topic of discourse4 ,nowhere are they treated as the pice de rsistance1 so to speak1 of a chapter4 ,and here are not many--only a few that go especially well in cold weather1 when to have any variety at all in salads incurs a considerable outlay of rumination4 ,just a little inventive faculty and a firm purpose to have your table superior1 even in details1 to that of your dearest enemy1 and you can with materials on hand in ,january have salads that give the eternal chicken and lobster with mayonnaise the go-by1--though1 ,i fear me1 the snubbing in the near future will come from the lobster itself4 ,but that's not to be discussed at just this minute4 ,red ,cabbage ,salad ,before this you have probably made red cabbage salad with a ,french dressing and with a spread of mayonnaise over it1 so that you think you know it all1 but have you tried adding to it some celery8 ,this is the way it is done4 ,all the coarse outside leaves of the cabbage are removed and the inside is finely shredded4 ,then the best stalks of a head of celery are cut into inch pieces and put into the salad bowl1 a layer of celery1 then one of the cabbage1 and so on1 heaping a bit in the centre4 ,garnish with the fresh green leaves of the celery2 pour a dressing1 made of a beaten egg1 three tablespoonfuls of oil1 two of vinegar1 a saltspoon of salt1 a dash of cayenne1 and a suspicion of mustard1 over all1 and let stand for half an hour in a cool place before serving4 ,for luncheon1 when you are having croquettes of left-over ham bits1 or of cold tongue scraps1 this goes very near to being what would tempt any sane person to ask for a second helping4 ,spanish ,onion ,salad ,then there is a way to make an onion salad1 that sets you to wondering why you never heard of it before4 ,have the ,spanish onions1 and soak them four or five hours1 after peeling1 in cold water1 changing the water every hour1 or even oftener1 if your time isn't too precious4 ,then slice and chop them1 but not to the mussy stage4 ,freeze them1 not too hard1 but so they will be crisp and cold4 ,meanwhile1 prepare a dressing of two-thirds oil to one-third vinegar1 with salt and pepper to taste1 and pour over them4 ,serve immediately4 ,but don't forget the garnish1 which naturally suggests itself--parsley1 to be sure1 and plenty of it4 ,with this salad8 ,well1 we will suppose it is making its dbut in your household at an after-theatre snack4 ,so have with it toasted water crackers1 a bit of ,swiss cheese1 a smoked herring or two4 ,and beer1 of course4 ,sardine ,salad ,now1 don't skip what is going down here about a sardine salad--you will miss it if you do4 ,i know you will say you wouldn't fancy the oil in which they are preserved in a salad1 and ,i can see that rather superior curl your lip takes on as you say it4 ,but soak them for an hour in vinegar1 then remove the skin from them and arrange in a circle on your salad dish4 ,in the centre heap pitted and quartered olives4 ,make a dressing of the strained juice of a lemon mixed with a tablespoonful of olive oil1 a bit of salt and of paprika1 and over all a sprinkling of capers4 ,then1 take a taste of it when your turn comes1 and be sorry you were inclined to pass by it4 ,brussels ,sprouts ,salad ,now and then1 you know1 we do have a few ,brussels sprouts left over from the day before's dinner1 and at the price usually asked we couldn't throw them away1 and yet there weren't enough to pay for reheating4 ,so1 in order to be forehanded1 and also to have the makings of a delicious salad in the house1 get double the quantity you usually have the next time you are getting them1 and be glad for every one that is left over1 for the next day you will sprinkle a few drops of lemon juice over them1 coat them with a mayonnaise1 sprinkle with capers and sliced olives1 and serve very cold4 ,at a simple little dinner1 where you are having left-overs daintily fixed up1 this salad works in beautifully1 or if you are giving a dinner that is as elaborate as anything you ever turn out1 count on this salad to be one of the features of your dinner4 ,oyster ,salad ,a delicious offering to put before your household some night is a salad of oysters4 ,have a quart of them1 say1 drain and wipe them well from their own liquor4 ,boil a cup of vinegar1 and season it while boiling with salt and white pepper4 ,pour it over the oysters1 and let them stand for two hours or so4 ,then drain them pretty dry1 and lay on a bed of chopped celery in the salad bowl4 ,if the oysters are very large cut in halves or quarters4 ,have a layer of chopped celery on top of the oysters1 and coat thickly with mayonnaise4 ,be sure1 however1 that the oysters are perfectly cold before adding to the celery4 ,garnish with a few oyster crabs1 pickled at the same time the oysters were pickled1 and some sliced olives4 ,to be very1 very extravagant in making this salad1 if you so want to be for the purpose of impressing some one1 add to it a few sliced truffles that have been soaked in white wine for an hour or two4 ,nut ,salad ,for some occasions1 at this season of the year1 a nut salad just fills the bill as nothing else can4 ,choose almost any kind of nuts1 but preferably let them be mainly ,english walnuts4 ,have them in halves1 or in quarters1 and squeeze lemon juice over them fifteen minutes before dressing4 ,then add to them half their quantity of quartered olives1 some very tender little celery leaves1 and a thin mask of mayonnaise4 ,really1 when you have turned out this salad1 for a party supper1 say1 you need give yourselves very little uneasiness as to how the other viands will set with your guests4 ,such a salad is calculated to redeem a good many faults in other directions4 ,fruit ,salad ,just a word about a sweet salad1 and this screed is ended4 ,oranges4 ,it shall be of oranges--big1 luscious1 juicy1 seedless oranges1 that are at their height for the next two months or more4 ,these you slice1 after peeling1 as you would an apple4 ,put a layer of them in a bowl1 sprinkle with powdered sugar and a few drops of orange curaoa4 ,then another layer of oranges1 another of sugar1 another fall of curaoa1 and so on till the dish is full4 ,then1 if there are half a dozen oranges used1 pour over them about half a gill of brandy1 either the plain brandy or apricot brandy4 ,the latter1 ,i find1 is possessed of a mysterious flavor that1 when added to an orange salad1 just sets people to wondering why it is they have to go away from home to find such delights4 ,,february ,to sing the same tune1 as the saying is1 is in everything cloying and offensive2 but men are generally pleased with variety4 ,,once upon a time1 one of the resourceless sort of housekeepers said to me that she was never quite so stumped as when she felt the economical burden laid upon her to utilize lamb or mutton left-overs4 ,now1 this has been quite the opposite of my experience4 ,in fact1 ,i wouldn't acknowledge that ,i found cold lamb a facer1 anyway4 ,roast ,lamb with ,caper ,sauce ,suppose we talk of a leg of lamb roasted in this way3 ,the bone neatly removed1 the cavity filled with a mushroom stuffing1 then roasted in a hot oven and served with caper sauce and currant jelly4 ,to be sure ,i know you would as soon have pledged yourself to break one of the commandments1 as to serve caper sauce with roasted lamb1 if ,i had not tempted you4 ,but you will do it1 now that the suggestion has entered your consciousness of gastronomical beauties4 ,roast ,lamb with ,onion ,pure ,or1 if1 in the first blush1 it doesn't appeal to you1 there's this way of roasting lamb that ,i dare say is new to you4 ,first1 make an onion pure1 by mincing one quart of onions and boiling them till tender4 ,drain very dry1 put them in a saucepan with two ounces of butter2 season with salt and pepper2 let them simmer for ten or fifteen minutes1 but don't let them brown4 ,then add to them half a pint of cream1 and press all through a sieve1 when serving as sauce4 ,roast ,lamb with ,macaroni ,can you stand another novelty8 ,it's this4 ,put the lamb in the roasting-pan1 and just a half hour before you think it is to be done1 take it out and cover the bottom of the pan with boiled macaroni4 ,lay the lamb on this1 and prick it all over that the juice may run over the macaroni4 ,moisten the macaroni with a little stock1 too1 if it threatens to get too dry or too brown4 ,when the lamb is roasted take it out1 heap the macaroni on a dish1 pour a little tomato sauce over it1 sprinkle with ,parmesan and send to table4 ,have a little tomato1 or any other sauce that pleases you1 with the lamb1 if you feel that you must have a sauce4 ,broiled ,lamb ,slices ,now1 for the second day--no1 the third day1 rather4 ,skip a day before dishing a reheating of the lamb4 ,then get some good slices from the joint1 even as to size and thickness1 and lay them for an hour in a dressing of two tablespoonfuls of oil1 one of ,tarragon vinegar1 with salt and pepper4 ,take them out of the dressing1 dip in bread crumbs1 broil over a hot fire1 and serve with a tartar sauce1 or1 if you like1 with some of the onion pure1 if any was left4 ,fried ,lamb with ,chutney ,if you like chutney1 and of course you do1 have some neat slices of cold lamb spread with this palate-tickler1 roll each slice up1 coat with crumbs1 and fry in boiling fat till brown4 ,skewer the rolled slices to keep them in shape4 ,when serving1 sprinkle with a few drops of lemon juice4 ,it will be a question with you1 probably1 which of these two ways of reheating is better4 ,but that's the sort of recipes with which to load your intelligence1 so don't complain4 ,lamb ,slices with ,onions and ,mushrooms ,can you digest another warmed-over dish of lamb8 ,this time have the slices thick rather than thin1 and put them in a stewpan with enough sherry wine to cover them4 ,cover closely1 and let heat slowly while you are tossing together1 in a little butter1 some minced boiled onion and button mushrooms4 ,color slightly1 and moisten with a little rich stock4 ,take up the slices of lamb1 arrange in a circle on a dish1 fill the centre with the onions and mushrooms1 pour the wine over all1 and take the trick4 ,it's yours4 ,in case you don't like as much wine as is required to cover the lamb1 use half wine and half water1 and the juice of a lemon4 ,lamb ,slices in ,chafing ,dish ,if you want to try the reheating of the lamb in the chafing dish1 have it sliced as neatly as possible1 and make ready in the chafing dish a sauce of one wineglass of port wine1 half a pint of good stock1 thickened1 a teaspoonful of walnut ketchup1 the same of ,french mustard1 and a pinch of salt4 ,when this is hot put in the lamb1 and serve as soon as heated through4 ,if with any of the foregoing recipes you think you would fancy a border of rice1 have it1 by all means4 ,but have plenty of butter in the water in which the rice is boiled2 or if it is steamed1 have it moistened well with butter just the same4 ,lamb ,croquettes ,you might fancy this rice border with lamb croquettes4 ,these1 you know1 are made by having the lamb chopped finely1 and added to it half its quantity of chopped mushrooms4 ,moisten with a little tomato sauce1 shape and fry4 ,lamb ,salad ,surely you will not take offence if ,i assume1 at this stage of the game1 that you are educated up to a point where you can appreciate the delights that centre in a lamb salad4 ,you dice the lamb1 having it free of all fat and sinew4 ,then put a layer of it in the bottom of the salad bowl4 ,have a dressing of oil1 vinegar1 pepper1 and salt1 with a bit of ,french mustard in it1 at hand1 and with this sprinkle the lamb4 ,bestrew it1 too1 with a chopped anchovy or two1 or more1 if you are fond of anchovies4 ,then put in a layer of cold boiled potatoes1 diced--more dressing2 another stratum of lamb1 and so on till the dish is full1 having it mound-shaped4 ,garnish with sliced gherkins and capers1 and let it go at that4 99 99 99 99 99 ,i would that fewer nursery rhymers had taken trips to market for their text when their pens took to turning out jingles2 for goodness knows that what with ,to market1 to market to buy a fat pig1 and ,to market1 to market1 all on a market day1 keeping up a continuous jig-like theme in my mind1 to say nothing of the insistent interruptions by the little pig that went to market ,i am well-nigh distracted when ,i try to get dry-as-dust facts from the marketman anent commonplace eatables4 ,to be sure1 if ,i go in search of frogs' legs1 say1 and the story of the frog who went a-wooing recurs to my mind three or four times in a minute1 it seems quite appropriate and doesn't interfere in the least with my driving a pretty sharp bargain with the fish-dealer4 ,but1 so far as ,i know1 no poet or writer of assonance has taken it into his head to sing a song of livers1 kidneys1 and such like edibles of which ,i am telling you herein1 and no wonder1 you may say1 if ,i don't succeed in making my story fairly interesting1 as well as appetizing--though from the nature of it if it is one it must be the other4 ,kidneys en ,brochette ,everybody knows1 ,i fancy1 that when one has cut off the skin of some lambs' kidneys1 and then cut the kidneys into quarter-inch-thick slices1 seasoned them with salt and pepper1 dipped them in oil1 and then threaded them on skewers with alternating slices of bacon a brochette of kidneys is well under way4 ,to complete the operation they are dipped into oil1 then into bread-crumbs and broiled over a slow fire4 ,in serving there's no reason in the world why one should not indulge one's fancy for any simple sauce that will help the kidneys to tickle one's palate4 ,good as this dish is1 ,i must confess ,i like it better when chickens' livers are substituted for the kidneys4 ,by the way1 do you know that every up-to-date marketman has them all skewered1 and all that you have to do is to add the seasoning and see to the broiling8 ,fried ,kidneys with ,mushrooms ,another really delightful way of serving lambs' kidneys is to prepare in a frying-pan a tablespoonful of chopped onions1 a small chopped shallot1 a clove of garlic and as many fresh mushrooms as you feel like buying1 with salt and pepper to taste1 and an ounce or so of butter2 don't let the vegetables color at all1 and perhaps the best way to avoid this is to add a gill or so of any kind of wine and the same of cream4 ,let this sauce mull a while on the back of the range1 while you broil the number of kidneys desired1 after having skinned and split each one in two lengthwise4 ,dish and pour over them the sauce1 removing from it the garlic4 ,if you've never heard of this way for preparing kidneys1 it seems to me that you should be very grateful to me for calling your attention to it4 ,minced ,kidneys2 ,macaroni ,croquettes ,and may your gratitude be re-enforced after you have tried cooking veal kidneys in this fashion3 ,mince three very small ones1 after removing all the fat and fibrous parts1 and fry them in butter over a hot fire4 ,don't let them get wizzled up1 but just done to a turn1 then take from the frying-pan and add to the butter in which they were fried some tomato sauce highly seasoned1 half a can of mushrooms1 some lemon juice1 and chopped parsley2 pour over the kidneys and even if you serve them in just this manner they will prove a great success2 but should you wish to make it a dish to linger in one's memory1 then garnish it with macaroni croquettes4 ,ever make them8 ,well1 boil a pound of macaroni in salted water for fifteen minutes4 ,then drain and cut it into quarter-inch lengths2 put back into the saucepan with a little grated cheese1 a little salt1 cayenne pepper and a gill of cream4 ,let it get perfectly cold1 then mould into croquettes1 either cylinder-shaped or any other form1 only have them very small2 dip in egg and bread-crumbs and fry a pretty brown4 ,these macaroni croquettes1 by the way1 make a suitable garnish for any number of dishes2 try them with veal cutlets some time1 or with thin1 dainty slices of ham broiled for luncheon1 and you'll get more than your labor for your pains4 ,fried ,calf's ,liver ,if you are thinking to have liver1 then my advice to you is to get if possible only that of a calf4 ,to buy that of an older beef critter is so often a waste of time and money that it's just as well to forego buying it altogether--it is so apt to have too much flavor1 so to speak1 or be tough or stringy1 and wholly unsatisfactory4 ,but get a calf's liver1 and something of a treat is in store for you1 whether you fry it with bacon or prepare it in this way3 ,cut up finely three or four good-sized white onions and fry them in butter till of a golden brown4 ,drain the butter off and cover the onions with white stock2 let cook for half an hour1 then moisten with more stock and season with pepper1 salt1 chopped parsley1 and just a suspicion of lemon juice4 ,fry the slices of liver1 which should not be over half an inch in thickness1 in enough butter to keep them from hardening2 drain off the butter and add the above sauce2 let it boil up once1 then serve1 and garnish with slices of lemon4 ,perhaps this is a bit heavy for a breakfast dish--to my mind it is decidedly so--while for luncheon1 where one is having a salad of watercress1 or for an entre at dinner it seems to be quite in its rightful place4 ,if the liver is to be served for breakfast1 then it is a good idea to roll the slices in a little flour1 sprinkle melted butter over them and broil over the coals1 squeezing just enough lemon juice and sprinkling just enough chopped parsley over them to make them grateful to the taste and eye when served4 ,sauce for ,calf's ,liver ,but why don't you try to invent a sauce for calf's liver8 ,fry it in plenty of butter1 then add to the butter1 when the liver is removed1 anything that your palate suggests or which your common sense approves4 ,for instance1 put in a few tiny slices of gherkin1 a handful of mushrooms1 a soupon of tomato sauce1 a few capers1 a little lemon juice1 chopped chives or chervil1 chopped shallot or any herb or condiment that you may have in the house4 ,of course you don't want to use all of these articles1 but try a combination of any two or three or more of them1 with the addition of a little stock and--who knows8--you may invent a sauce that will make you as famous as was ,bchamel1 ,cond or ,carme4 ,success be with you6 99 99 99 99 99 ,do be kind enough some of these times when you are scribbling about the good things at market to bear in mind that not every one is hale and hearty and blessed with digestive organs that could stand a diet of shingle nails4 ,give a thought to the poor unfortunates that are obliged to think twice before gratifying their appetites once4 ,thus wailed one of the said poor unfortunates once upon a time1 and as a result of the complaint ,i have since been holding them in thought to a considerable extent1 with a view to making the material aspect of a period of invalidism and convalescence a bit the brighter4 ,chicken ,broth with ,oatmeal ,of course we all know that the list of eatables allowed an invalid or a convalescent is of necessity a rather short one2 but there is an infinite number of ways for varying the list1 if one will use a little judgment and good taste in preparing the dishes4 ,we have all had experience in seeing a sick person make a wry face at the mention of gruel or porridge1 and precious little we blamed him for it1 to tell the truth4 ,but the whole condition of affairs may be changed by preparing it in this way3 ,have a pint of good clear chicken broth1 free from fat and not too strong2 boil it1 and into it shake slowly a cup of oatmeal or wheaten grits2 let it cook for half an hour or so1 pass it through a wire sieve1 and add to it a little more broth if that is necessary to make it fit to be sipped easily from a cup without using a spoon4 ,take it to the sick-room with the remark1 ,i have brought you a little pure of oatmeal1 and my word for it you will not see a drop left in the cup4 ,pure of ,barley ,and a pure of barley will be quite as acceptable4 ,soak the barley over night1 and the next morning cover it with chicken broth2 boil until the barley bursts1 adding broth from time to time as it cooks away2 when the broth begins to thicken1 which will be at the end of about three hours' time1 strain it through a very fine sieve4 ,serve it in a cup2 and if you dare do such a thing1 add a tiny bit of butter to it4 ,it makes it a deal more palatable1 and ,i don't believe it will harm the patient2 but it's quite possible the physician in charge may think otherwise4 ,beef ,tea ,there are ways and ways for making beef tea2 but the best of all ways1 it seems to me1 is to have round steak about one inch in thickness1 broil it for two minutes on each side over a brisk fire1 cut it up into inch squares1 cover it with cold water1 and let it steep1 not boil1 for two hours4 ,serve it in a cup1 and salt when serving4 ,you and the ailing one will find1 ,i think1 that the broiling of the steak gives the tea a flavor that makes it hit the spot--a consummation devoutly to be wished when one is catering for an invalid4 ,cream ,soup ,cream soups make a pleasing change after plain broths or teas4 ,take any white stock that is rich1 free from fat and well seasoned4 ,put into a saucepan half a pint of the stock and the same quantity of cream4 ,when it comes to a boil add one tablespoonful of flour thoroughly moistened with cold milk1 and let it boil at once4 ,serve with it finger-pieces of thin buttered toast4 ,sabayon of ,chicken ,a highly nutritious dish is made by putting four egg-yolks into a double boiler1 diluting them with half a pint of clear chicken broth1 and beating the mixture with a whip or beater until it becomes thick and frothy4 ,when it is done add two teaspoonfuls of sherry to it1 and serve in a cup2 have it just as hot as possible4 ,and if the person for whom you concoct this appetizing affair insists upon knowing its name1 you may say that it is a sabayon of chicken4 ,chicken ,custard ,and1 by the way1 what an endless amount of dainty edibles may be made from chicken6 ,take a chicken custard1 for instance2 could anything be daintier8 ,have a cupful of good clear chicken stock1 and add to it an equal quantity of cream2 cook it for a few minutes1 then put it into a double boiler1 and add the beaten yolks of three eggs and a little salt4 ,cook until the mixture thickens a little1 and then pour it into custard cups to be served cold4 ,it's an ungrateful1 whimsical1 and grumpy sort of an invalid who doesn't reckon as a red-letter day the time when he first tasted of a chicken custard4 ,but whether or not this is the case1 you will have to keep right on shaking up your ideas and producing other dishes4 ,tapioca ,jelly ,in all probability you will try your hand at jelly-making2 and when you have exhausted your own stock of recipes try making a tapioca jelly4 ,to prepare it1 soak one cup of tapioca in three cups of water over night4 ,in the morning put it into a double boiler with a cup of hot water1 and let it simmer until perfectly clear1 stirring often4 ,sweeten to taste and flavor with the juice of half a lemon and two tablespoonfuls of wine4 ,pour into cups1 and set away to get perfectly cold4 ,when serving1 sprinkle with powdered sugar and heap a little whipped cream on it4 ,or it may be that a blanc-mange made with tapioca will seem to you worth the trying4 ,if so1 soak a cupful of tapioca in two cups of water over night4 ,in the morning put it into the double boiler1 and stir into it two cups of boiling milk1 three tablespoonfuls of sugar1 and a pinch of salt4 ,cook it slowly for fifteen minutes1 stirring several times4 ,take it from the fire1 and flavor with wine or vanilla4 ,let it harden in small moulds1 and serve with powdered sugar and whipped cream4 ,violet ,jelly ,and some day when the patient is unusually capricious try surprising him or her with a violet jelly4 ,a woman ,i know told me not long ago that she had found it more efficacious than a dozen soft answers4 ,have a pint of clear boiling syrup1 and into it throw a heaping handful of fresh violets1 after removing the stalks2 let this simmer1 tightly covered1 for half an hour4 ,then strain the liquor1 and add to it half an ounce of gelatine dissolved in a very little water1 the juice of an orange1 and two teaspoonfuls of violet vegetable coloring1 which is as harmless as so much cold water4 ,turn it into a mould1 and set on ice to harden4 ,steamed ,rice ,when boiled or steamed rice is ordered1 try preparing it in this way4 ,wash a cupful of it thoroughly and put into the double boiler with just enough water to cover it4 ,when the rice is nearly done1 pour off the water1 if any remains1 and add one cup of milk and a little salt4 ,let the rice cook thoroughly till done4 ,beat an egg well1 and the last thing before taking the rice from the fire stir the egg in as lightly as possible1 and serve hot with sugar and cream4 ,the egg makes the dish a bit more attractive and considerably more nutritious4 ,invalid's ,chop ,i wonder if you have ever tried cooking a lamb chop or cutlet in this way4 ,have three cutlets cut1 two of them rather thinner than the third1 then tie them together1 the thick one in the middle4 ,broil over a hot fire till the outside cutlets are burnt to a crisp1 and at that stage you will find the inside one in just the right condition for serving2 salt it1 and serve piping hot4 ,with it serve a baked potato that has been pressed through a sieve4 ,sprinkle the potato with salt and moisten it with a little cream4 ,to be sure you may think that a somewhat expensive way of cooking a lamb chop1 and so it is from some points of view2 but it will set any self-respecting convalescent at least two days ahead on his journey to complete recovery1 and when you think of it in that way you see it's positively cheap4 ,all these things1 yea1 and a thousand more1 must be taken into consideration when one is in attendance upon a sick person4 99 99 99 99 99 ,to say that every one should have a chafing-dish in these days were to be trite--everyone should have seven chafing-dishes1 or as near that number as possible2 not one for every day in the week exactly1 but rather that1 if you are having a little after-the-opera or after-the-theatre jollification and have a dozen or so hungry ones to feed1 there may be enough to go round1 and also that you may have a variety of dainties4 ,creamed ,oysters ,not all will want creamed oysters1 of course1 but you can set a pretty girl to preparing this dish for those who do want it4 ,give her about half a pint of rich1 thick cream1 an ounce or so of butter and a teaspoonful of flour which she will braid together in the most approved cooking-school fashion for thickening the cream when it is hot4 ,then she should put in two dozen or so oysters that have been well drained and freed from any bits of shell4 ,if you can trust her to do so1 let her season the dish with a dash of red pepper1 and salt1 and a shake or two of celery salt4 ,when the edges of the oysters begin to frizzle1 have ready for her either little strips of toast or some crackers on hot plates1 on which to serve the oysters4 ,if you find that more than three persons will be apt to bid for the creamed oysters1 you will want rather more than two dozen1 ,i fancy2 still1 you will know best about that4 ,flaked ,cold ,cod in ,tomato ,if you have any cold fish in the house1 halibut or cod or haddock that has been boiled or baked1 not fried1 have it flaked up in good-sized pieces and marinated for three or four hours in a tablespoonful each of oil and vinegar1 a dash of cayenne1 the juice of an onion and salt to taste4 ,when you are to use it have hot in the chafing-dish three teaspoonfuls each of rich tomato sauce1 sherry wine and butter1 putting the butter in and melting it first4 ,when these are well blended together1 lay in the fish and stir it about in the sauce till quite hot4 ,this1 let me tell you1 will not go a-begging for admirers4 ,it is a particularly savory tidbit1 and on a cold night is its own best recommendation4 ,lobster ,newberg ,i wonder if you will say a recipe for lobster la ,newberg is altogether too stale if ,i undertake to tell it to you4 ,i know its age just as well as you do1 and ,i also know that ,i could weep bitterly1 if it would do any good1 at some of the concoctions called by that name that ,i have had put before me1 and which1 worse than all1 ,i have been expected to eat4 ,so right here ,i shall put on record my way of preparing that delicious dish1 and if you don't care to read it1 why skip it1 of course4 ,into the chafing dish put two ounces of butter and let it melt2 then put in the meat of a two-pound lobster cut into dice-shaped pieces and let them cook till they are really fried a bit4 ,then turn low the flame of the lamp while you pour in a little less than a pint of cream in which has been beaten three eggs1 seasoned with salt and red pepper4 ,just as this is hot add a scant wineglass of sherry and let it heat once more1 regulating the flame all the time so that it cannot boil4 ,for if it does the jig is up1 the eggs will be sure to curdle1 and you will wish to goodness you hadn't undertaken it4 ,have little triangles of toasted bread on which to serve the lobster1 and if it turns out the success it should1 your reputation among your guests will be for all time established as a hostess who knows her business from ,a to ,z4 ,chicken ,livers with ,olive ,sauce ,if you will get some chicken livers you can prepare a very appetizing dish with very little trouble4 ,melt an ounce of butter in the chafing dish and in it put1 say1 eight or ten livers that have been salted well and rolled in a little flour4 ,let them cook pretty fast for ten minutes1 or till you think they are done1 then put with them half a pint of hot water and a teaspoonful of any extract of beef1 with what salt and pepper your superior judgment deems suitable4 ,when this is hot turn in a gill of sherry1 and a dozen olives pitted and quartered4 ,just a dash of lemon juice and the deed is done1 provided you have ready some toast for the serving of the livers4 ,if you haven't at the time of night when you will be serving these dishes a fire over which you can toast the bread1 you can have one of the guests preparing the bread in a chafing dish4 ,cut the slices of the size you like and fry them delicately in a very little butter and they will go finely in this way4 ,welsh ,rabbit ,because you may think ,i don't know how to make one if ,i say nothing1 ,i suppose ,i shall have to offer a word or so about ,welsh rabbits4 ,melt an ounce of butter in the chafing-dish and then stir in and let melt slowly a pound of cheese cut up into very small pieces4 ,season this as you go along with paprika1 a little salt1 and mustard as you think you like it4 ,when the cheese is quite melted pour in1 very slowly1 a little beer or ale1 about two gills in all4 ,then when it is well blended with the cheese stir in a couple of eggs well beaten and serve on crackers4 ,did you ever try making your rabbits with ginger ale8 ,really they are good in that way1 and it is very palatable to drink when you are eating them4 ,and cider is delicious served with rabbits1 also--the champagne cider4 ,try it some time4 ,golden ,buck ,for a golden buck1 prepare the cheese as for a rabbit1 but on each plate when you are serving it place a poached egg4 ,these must be prepared in another dish while the rabbit is under process of construction4 ,so1 you see1 ,i wasn't so far off in my calculations1 rapid as they seemed to you at the time1 when ,i said my little say about seven chafing dishes4 ,eggs ,poached in ,tomato ,suppose you have on hand a pint of rich tomato sauce4 ,heat this in the chafing-dish and poach in it two eggs4 ,lift them out and lay on a hot dish while you poach two more4 ,continue in this way till you have half-a-dozen eggs poached4 ,serve one or two as you like1 on a slice of toast or fried bread1 pour some of the tomato sauce round1 sprinkle grated ,parmesan cheese over each and send them around the table on their mission4 ,curried ,eggs ,if you are fond of curry try some curried eggs4 ,melt in the chafing-dish two ounces of butter1 and fry in it two small onions1 sliced2 take these out and stir in a dessertspoonful of curry powder and a teaspoonful of ,worcestershire sauce4 ,when these are well mixed add half a dozen well-beaten eggs4 ,cook quickly and serve4 ,creamed ,chicken ,perhaps you have a pet recipe for creamed chicken1 and ,i don't doubt it is all such a recipe should be2 but let me suggest that1 instead of putting chicken and cream and all the other things into the chafing-dish at the same time1 you melt the butter first and then stir in the chicken and let it cook for two or three minutes before you put in the cream1 or bchamel1 or whatever it is you use4 ,the flavor of the dish will be very much richer and more palatable to most persons4 ,for1 between ourselves1 ,i think that creamed chicken is apt to be rather a flat and tasteless affair1 and will stand quite a little bracing up4 ,i hope you won't want to spoil the taste of any of these dishes by having sweets after them1 in the way of fancy cakes1 etc4 ,if you do1 you may choose them for yourselves4 ,i'll have none of them4 ,,march ,so comes a reckoning when the banquet's o'er1-- ,the dreadful reckoning1 and men smile no more4 ,,there couldn't be a better time than the present in which to have a smoke-talk1 mesdames4 ,there1 there1 now1 pray don't be alarmed2 ,i've no notion of passing round any of the popular brands of cigars4 ,neither would ,i so much as offer you cigarettes1 albeit the latest scientific utterance has pronounced them harmless4 ,no1 our talk shall be of some of the smoked and salted viands that1 while they may not perhaps come under the head of delicacies or indelicacies of the season1 are decidedly appetizing1 and quite worthy of having considerable attention given to the best ways and means of serving them4 ,salt ,fish with ,cream ,and haven't you been saddened hundreds of times when reflecting upon the disregard of details that makes of a dish of salt-fish and cream nothing but a pasty and altogether horrid mess8 ,but a dish of salted cod becomes delicacy itself if the fish is shredded while raw1 all skin and bone removed1 washed several times in cold water and cooked in plenty of fresh water2 then it should be drained and covered with cream1 which has been heated and thickened with an egg or two beaten up well in a tablespoonful or so of cream2 add a dash of cayenne1 to give it a zest1 and you have prepared for breakfast or luncheon a dainty that will quite justify you in fancying yourself for the rest of the day4 ,and that's a wonderfully comfortable state of mind in which to find oneself4 ,salt ,fish with ,brown ,butter ,perhaps1 however1 for a luncheon dish you would rather have the codfish served with brown butter4 ,in which case you flake and freshen it as before1 and cook in plenty of water4 ,take it up on a hot dish and pour over it a sauce made of butter1 in which you have fried minced onion and a handful of chopped parsley till they are brown4 ,and you can vary this sauce infinitely3 add a bay leaf or two1 or a few capers1 or some chopped sweet red peppers1 and get a new flavor with each addition4 ,the subject of codfish balls ,i won't take up here4 ,i fear ,i might make it too exhaustive4 ,and1 besides1 every housekeeper seems to have a chosen way for preparing them4 ,fried ,cods' ,tongues ,i wish as much could be said about that too-little-appreciated genuine delicacy--fresh cods' tongues4 ,they are delicious when boiled till tender1 and then served with brown butter1 as suggested above for codfish4 ,and they are just as good1 and some think even better1 if they are dipped in milk1 then rolled one by one in flour1 and fried in plenty of butter for about ten minutes4 ,you can simply pour the butter on them when serving1 with a little chopped parsley scattered over all1 or you can put into the frying-pan1 after taking the tongues out1 a gill or two of tomato sauce1 and serve this separately in a sauceboat1 serving each tongue on a slice of toast4 ,usually it will be found necessary to soak the salted tongues for twenty-four hours or more in water1 changing it once or twice1 as seems necessary4 ,to be sure there's considerable trouble and no small amount of care involved in having these edibles1 or any others1 for that matter1 quite as one would like1 but some old wiseacre has said that life's cares are its comforts1 and if one only has a firm belief1 rooted and grounded in past experience1 in this bit of philosophy it's just as easy to apply it to cooking as to painting4 ,broiled ,smoked ,salmon ,and a little of this care used in the broiling of smoked salmon redeems it from the charred and uninviting dish it too often makes4 ,it is best to cut the salmon into small strips1 wrap each strip in a piece of buttered paper1 and then broil over a clear fire4 ,when done remove the paper1 and serve the fish on a piping hot dish1 at once4 ,and if you want a sauce for it make one by cooking a minced onion in a gill of vinegar and twice as much water1 adding1 as the onion shows signs of tenderness1 two ounces of fresh butter1 four finely chopped hard-boiled egg yolks1 and a little chopped parsley4 ,boiled ,salt ,mackerel1 with ,horse-radish ,sauce ,of course you know how to cook salt mackerel--you could sue me for libel if ,i said aught to the contrary4 ,but do you1 ,i wonder1 ever try preparing it in my favorite way8 ,this is the manner of it3 ,soak the mackerel for twelve hours1 changing the water several times4 ,then boil it in an abundance of water1 in which there is a bay leaf1 two or three onions1 some parsley and the juice of a lemon4 ,the fish should cook very slowly1 and not be allowed to come to pieces4 ,when they are done1 serve them on a folded napkin1 with a sauce made by reducing a pint of cream to one-half1 adding to it an ounce of butter1 and thickening it with two egg yolks4 ,then add to it half its quantity of grated horse-radish1 heating it again1 without boiling4 ,in most cases it is necessary to add salt to this sauce1 but ,i prescribe no quantity4 ,i only advise being skittish about the amount when it is to be used for a salt fish4 ,if you are to have smoked mackerel1 broil instead of boiling it and serve with it the cream horse-radish sauce4 ,smoked ,herring ,fried ,and then there are smoked and salted herring1 that if cooked judiciously make life at least a bit more comfortable4 ,it is best to soak them for five or six hours in water and then for two hours in sweet1 fresh milk1 after which you can work out some wonderful dishes with them4 ,if they have been salted only1 fry in butter and serve them on potatoes mashed with cream4 ,but if the herring are smoked as well as salted1 split them down the back and cook in enough milk to cover4 ,cook till thoroughly done1 and then serve on a very hot dish with branches of parsley around1 and a little sweet rich cream poured over them4 ,finnan ,haddies with ,cream ,but1 to my thinking1 the best of all the smoked and salted fish are the finnan haddies4 ,and one of the best ways of cooking them is as per that last described for cooking herring4 ,but the haddies are much less salt1 and require little1 if any1 soaking4 ,or1 if you prefer1 you can put them in a buttered baking-pan1 pour cream and bread crumbs over them and brown in a hot oven4 ,give them a little more cream when serving4 ,and again after you and your household have partaken of this dish and pronounced it good1 hard to beat1 etc41 you will have occasion to be pleased with yourself1 which1 being interpreted1 means of course being perfectly satisfied with all the world4 99 99 99 99 99 ,it is possible1 nay1 probable1 that you1 mesdames1 with all the calls that the ,lenten season makes upon your spiritual selves1 find little time for ordering or arranging dinners2 furthermore--and it's in no way to your discredit--it may be that with so much of each day given over to reflection and concentrated thought you experience a sort of disinclination to give heed to things material4 ,therefore it behooves me to be alive to my duty1 which in the premises certainly seems to prescribe that ,i shall think and plan a bit for you2 and ,i herewith submit1 as the result of a goodly amount of cogitation on my part1 a menu which ,i hope will strike you as being a very good sort of working model1 should you not care to follow it to the letter3-- ,consomm maigre with asparagus points4 ,lake trout with court bouillon4 ,macaroni timbales with tomato sauce4 ,casserole of fillets of sole4 ,oyster souffls4 ,coffee cream glace4 ,almond pudding4 ,you see that such a menu provides a dinner perfectly within the rule implied by diner maigre1 though it can in no sense be called a fast-day dinner4 ,in fact1 the very phrase is a contradiction4 ,if you are fasting1 you do not dine2 you simply eat to live--a very different thing4 ,and now for particulars4 ,no need to tell you how to make the soup2 you have stacks of cookery books that will give you the information necessary for the making of a good clear consomm4 ,as for the asparagus points1 it will be quite as well from all points of view to buy the canned asparagus tips1 and cook a little in salted water1 adding them to the soup about five minutes before it is served4 ,boiled ,lake ,trout ,perhaps your housekeepers' guides may not be sufficiently explicit in regard to cooking the lake trout in the manner suggested1 so ,i will tell you in detail4 ,in the first place1 you take equal quantities of white ,french wine--as inexpensive as you please--and water1 one small onion1 a bouquet of parsley1 thyme1 etc41 some peppercorns1 and a proper amount of salt4 ,let this boil for fifteen minutes1 and you have as good a court bouillon as one could wish4 ,into it put the trout1 tied into any shape you desire1 and boil until tender2 remove it1 and serve on a fish paper or napkin2 garnish with fresh green parsley sprays4 ,for the sauce1 you will melt some butter in a part of the court bouillon1 and serve separately4 ,you should find good lake trout in the market now1 and at a price that doesn't confine them to the list of luxuries4 ,aren't you glad8 ,macaroni ,timbales ,have you any idea how many ways are known to expert cooks for preparing macaroni8 ,i haven't4 ,but ,i should not be surprised to see offered for sale any day a publication setting forth ,one ,thousand ,ways to ,cook ,macaroni1 and ,i hope that macaroni timbales1 in case such an event comes to pass1 will be given the place of honor4 ,try making them in this way1 and you will agree with me4 ,boil the macaroni in plenty of salted water till it is tender1 but not mushy4 ,drain off the water1 and add1 with all thoughts of economy thrown to the winds1 melted butter2 stir it in well1 and add a goodly sprinkling of grated ,parmesan cheese and cayenne pepper4 ,line a mould with the very best puff-paste you know how to make1 rolled as thinly as possible1 and put in the macaroni2 cover with a round of the paste1 lay a sheet of buttered paper over the top1 and bake in a hot oven for about thirty minutes4 ,unmould on a hot dish1 and pour round it some tomato sauce made from the best recipe given in any of your gastronomical literature4 ,casserole of ,fillets of ,sole ,then consult the aforesaid literature still further1 and select therefrom the most appetizing recipe for making a stuffing of bread-crumbs1 when you have it properly prepared spread with it some fillets of sole1 and tie them into shape with a little thread4 ,now put into a casserole1 or stewpan1 three or four ounces of butter1 two minced onions1 and the fish2 let it fry for five or six minutes1 then add to it two or three gills of bchamel sauce 7see cookery books once more71 a cupful of chopped mushrooms1 and a claret-glass of claret4 ,cover the pan closely1 and cook in the oven for half an hour4 ,when finished1 remove the strings from the fillets1 and serve in a deep dish with the liquor in which they were cooked poured over them4 ,and there you have a dish fit to tickle the palate of any king1 or knave1 that ever lived4 ,later in the season1 when lobsters are selling at a more reasonable price1 try substituting them for the soles1 and your delight will be increased several-fold4 ,oyster ,souffls ,very likely you know as much or more than ,i do about making oyster souffls1 but1 be that as it may1 ,i have the floor1 and am going to tell you what ,i do know about them1 for ,i may never get another chance4 ,my way is to blanch two dozen good oysters in their own liquor1 then cut them into dice1 and while they are cooling prepare a sauce of two ounces each of butter and flour1 a dust of cayenne1 a little salt1 the yolks of three eggs1 and half a pint of rich milk2 when it is thick enough and smooth enough ,i put in the oysters and their liquor1 pour the mixture into little souffl cases1 sprinkle each with browned bread-crumbs and bits of butter1 and bake in a moderate oven for eighteen minutes2 then serve at once4 ,how do you think you would like to try that way of making them8 ,coffee ,cream ,glace ,now1 you will admit that ,i very seldom presume to tell you how to prepare sweets1 but to-day my story would be incomplete if ,i were to omit the directions for making a coffee cream glace4 ,it is easy as can be2 that is1 if you can freeze things4 ,beat the yolks of four eggs in a basin with four ounces of powdered sugar1 standing the basin in another of hot water1 so that they may get quite warm1 but not hot2 add to them a gill of strong coffee1 beat it all together till it is light and creamy and quite cold4 ,then add to it a pint of stiffly whipped cream1 pour the mixture into a mould1 and bury in ice and salt for two hours4 ,unmould on the prettiest piece of lace paper you have when serving4 ,almond ,pudding ,perhaps ,i run the risk of overdoing the matter by telling you how to make an almond pudding1 but it does harmonize so delightfully with coffee glace that 'twould be actually sinful to leave you in ignorance of how it is made4 ,it's simple1 too1 simple as a b c4 ,you just beat up the yolks of five and the whites of three eggs with a large tablespoonful of rose-water1 and add gradually to it four ounces of powdered sugar and four ounces of freshly ground almonds1 mixed with a few small whole ones4 ,beat this thoroughly for ten or fifteen minutes1 pour into a well-buttered pie-dish and bake4 ,when half-cooked1 garnish with strips of candied orange peel and blanched almonds4 ,and if you have any of the pudding left1 which is doubtful1 you will find that it makes an excellent five-o'clock tea cake1 for it is quite as good cold as hot4 ,now1 have ,i not given you a good ground plan1 so to speak1 for ,lenten dinners8 ,it is the easiest thing in the world to leave out a part of it1 or add to it1 for that matter1 for it is composed wholly of neutral tints1 you might say1 and almost any viand under the sun will dovetail with it1 if you wish to elaborate it4 99 99 99 99 99 ,i really don't know the first thing about the dietetic properties of eggs1 for which ignorance ,i am truly grateful1 because ,i have always noticed that once a man or a woman gets where the healthfulness or the hurtfulness of any edible becomes the first consideration all real pleasure to be found in dining has for that man or woman lost half its charm4 ,neither could ,i guess1 though ,i had a dozen chances1 whether the fact that eggs form the backbone of so many meals during ,lent has its foundation in history1 or some religious rite4 ,and ,i am also content to remain uninformed on this point4 ,but ,i do know that at market these days the sign strictly fresh eggs is the most noticeable feature on every hand2 and ,i know1 too1 that there are a good many housekeepers who fairly long to know of some way in which to improve upon the neutral flavor of an egg so that it may become dainty1 savory or delicately sweet as the case may seem to require4 ,eggs ,curdled in ,cream ,to begin with the savory list3 ,some fine morning when you are to have for breakfast just an appetizing bit of broiled salted herring1 try cooking some eggs in this way--,put half a pint of cream into a saucepan and let it boil4 ,stir into it five well-beaten eggs1 seasoned with salt and pepper4 ,let this mixture curdle1 then turn it out on to a hot dish and brown it quickly with a salamander2 and you'll be at a loss to know whether it's the herring that makes the egg taste so well1 or if it's the egg that makes the herring so remarkably palatable4 ,eggs1 ,epicurean ,style ,another delicious way of serving eggs for breakfast is to have1 as a beginning1 say one dozen eggs and boil them till hard2 take off their shells1 cut them in halves and rub the yolks through a fine sieve2 put an ounce of butter and one cupful of cream into a saucepan1 season it with salt and white pepper and thicken with a very little flour4 ,when it is quite hot but not boiling stir into it half of the whites of the eggs1 chopped1 and the yolks4 ,arrange the remainder of the whites on a dish1 pour the mixture over them1 and serve piping hot4 ,you see the eggs can be boiled and prepared the day before1 and there's very little to be done to get them ready for breakfast4 ,now1 should you want to make this into a more savory dish1 you could easily add a little minced ham1 the juice of an onion1 or some minced olives and a few mushrooms1 and have by so doing a delectable luncheon dish that would go admirably with1 say1 some cold sliced tongue or with pickled lambs' tongues4 ,baked ,eggs ,a particularly savory dish of eggs is made by frying two small minced onions in butter till they are brown2 then mix with them a dessertspoonful of vinegar1 a very little salt1 and some pepper4 ,butter a dish1 spread the onions over it1 break over them half a dozen eggs1 and put into a hot oven4 ,when the eggs are cooked sufficiently1 cover them with a layer of bread-crumbs that have been fried in butter1 and serve4 ,the bread-crumbs must be hot1 of course4 ,try this some day at luncheon when you are having broiled pigs' feet and potato croquettes4 ,egg ,toast with ,cheese ,and if it doesn't turn out the success you hoped1 the next day you might take some very thin slices of bread1 trim off the crusts1 lay on a well-buttered dish1 and cover with very thin slices of cheese4 ,beat up well enough eggs to cover the bread1 season with salt and a little cayenne pepper1 and pour them over the slices4 ,put the dish in a moderate oven and bake until the eggs are set4 ,serve while very hot in the same dish4 ,if you prefer1 you may use in place of the sliced cheese some grated ,parmesan cheese sprinkled over the bread1 and sprinkle a little over the eggs too4 ,eggs in ,tomato ,pure ,eggs scrambled in tomato pure make a delectable dish for luncheon1 or for dinner as an entre4 ,have half a pint of rich tomato pure1 and cook in it half-a-dozen well beaten eggs2 pour the whole into a deep dish1 and serve with it some bread croutons4 ,some finely cut up chives will at times be thought an improvement to this dish4 ,scrambled ,eggs with ,truffles ,and there are scrambled eggs with truffles that are good enough for any time or place4 ,cook four sliced truffles in a wineglass of ,madeira for about two minutes2 then put in a tablespoonful of butter1 and season with salt and white pepper4 ,break eight eggs and without beating stir them well with a wooden spoon in the wine for three minutes1 cooking quickly all the while4 ,serve in a hot dish4 ,caviare ,omelets ,if one is fond of caviare 7and who isn't nowadays871 an omelet with caviare is most tempting4 ,make an omelet of the desired number of eggs1 and just before folding over spread it with a layer of caviare diluted with a little bchamel sauce4 ,after the omelet is dished1 garnish with parsley4 ,spanish ,omelet ,you will find in your hunts for ,spanish omelet recipes that they will turn up as thick as bees in a hive1 after which you will let the different directions for this savory dish foment in your mind till you get what seems to be the best from each and turn out one that is your very own1 and entitled to be known to your friends as ,spanish omelet la ,madame ,featherstonaugh--or whatever name has the honor to belong to you4 ,my recipe you shall have till you get one of your own1 however4 ,to begin with1 have a rich tomato pure2 to this you add chopped pimentos or sweet ,spanish peppers con amore1 then a bit of fried chopped onion1 a few mushrooms1 also cooked1 and diced cold cooked tongue or ham1 preferably tongue4 ,take any liberties with it that you like1 pray4 ,don't think you must follow it to the letter4 ,i rarely do1 to be candid with you4 ,i have used cold chicken1 cold duck1 and also cold goose1 when the larder has been bereft of ham or tongue2 and not one of my household dared to say anything shady about it4 ,omelet with ,chicken ,liver ,of course1 every housekeeper has a chicken liver omelet recipe among her belongings1 and made in the most ordinary way they are pretty sure to be worth the eating2 but if the livers are cooked in a little butter1 and then a little ,madeira is added to the butter1 the omelet is far and away ahead of those made by ordinary recipes1 as you will see by trying it4 ,jelly ,omelet ,when it comes to an omelet for dessert1 nothing can be better than an omelet stuffed with preserves or fresh fruit4 ,if preserves are used1 there's a wide range from which to select1 and any taste can be satisfied4 ,fill it with currant jelly1 or apricot or grapefruit marmalade1 or any other fruit that you like4 ,in almost any case a little grated lemon peel and a handful of chopped almonds will be an improvement4 ,after the omelet is dished it should always be sprinkled with finely powdered sugar4 ,strawberry ,omelet ,you might in the way of fresh fruits use some of the strawberries that are of respectable flavor and price now4 ,get a box some day of the best-looking ones you can find1 and sort them over4 ,save out about half of them1 the fairest ones in the lot1 cut in halves1 and put them in a bowl with two heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar1 a piece of orange peel1 and two teaspoonfuls of rum1 and set them in a cool place4 ,press the remainder of the strawberries through a fine sieve1 and sweeten well4 ,make an omelet of six eggs1 and before folding over fill it with the cut-up strawberries1 without any of the liquid4 ,dish the omelet1 sprinkle with powdered sugar1 and pour around it the juice of the strawberries1 to which has been added the liquid from the halved strawberries4 ,it's a delicate dish1 indeed1 and you will find that it will be a favorite at any table4 ,clestine ,omelet ,if you have a recipe for ,clestine omelets1 small ones1 of which you are very much enamored1 this paragraph will not interest you4 ,but if you are at odds with the one you have1 glance through this4 ,make as many small omelets as you think will be required1 one egg to each1 with yolk and white beaten separately4 ,put them on a hot dish1 cover with a thin layer of peach marmalade1 and on this sprinkle chopped candied fruits with a few chopped almonds1 and over all spread whipped cream4 ,work at chain-lightning speed in preparing this after the omelets are dished1 and get to the table in even quicker time1 if you would know this dish in perfection4 ,though if anything happens to cause you to slacken your pace a bit1 it will be worth the having1 for it will bear shading down a trifle from the top-notch4 ,or1 make the eggs into one large omelet1 and before folding it over fill with the jam and fruits1 and sprinkle the almonds and whipped cream over it after it is dished4 ,snow ,eggs ,then there's a dish called ,snow ,eggs that's just as inoffensive as it sounds4 ,you beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth1 and then drop them a spoonful at a time into boiling milk till they poach a bit4 ,take them out1 thicken the milk with the yolks1 adding sugar and any desired flavoring4 ,pour this over the poached whites1 dish1 and sprinkle with chopped macaroons before serving4 ,omelette ,souffle ,it wouldn't be fair to omit any mention of an omelette souffle in a chapter on eggs2 so here it shall go1 though for myself ,i don't care for it4 ,it has always seemed to me like a dessert to be served when a dessert wasn't really needed or wanted1 but because a dessert of some kind must go down to make the luncheon or dinner complete4 ,separate1 then1 the yolks and whites of five eggs4 ,beat the yolks and half a cup of sugar together for ten minutes4 ,flavor with a little rose-water4 ,then turn to the whites1 and beat them to the stiffest kind of a froth4 ,butter a souffl dish1 and pour the mixture into it4 ,bake for twelve minutes1 and send to table4 ,the guests should always be waiting for an omelette souffle1 mind4 ,never force the omelet to do the waiting--it isn't giving it a fair chance4 ,,april ,the best doctors in the world are ,doctor ,diet1 ,doctor ,quiet1 and ,doctor ,merryman4 ,,the very first thing to be done on ,easter morning is to get up in time to see the sun dance2 for1 as you probably know1 not a bit of good luck will be yours for the year to come if laziness1 or anything1 in fact1 save cloudy skies1 prevents your beholding this phenomenon4 ,but it is possible that you don't know that this means nothing less than to be facing the east with eagle eye and steady nerve at a pretty early hour4 ,rather rough1 isn't it8 ,how would it do1 then1 to sit up all night in order to be on hand to witness the fancy steps of the god of day8 ,you could do that and then have a good long nap1 after which you might be refreshed by a breakfast of shad roes 7they're about as inexpensive now as they will be71 broiled to a turn1 with a little melted butter and lemon juice1 judiciously mixed1 poured over them2 dainty1 crisp lettuce hearts1 salted a bit2 graham bread1 thinly sliced1 and toasted to that shade known the world over as epicurean brown2 and lastly1 instead of coffee1 a steaming1 fragrant1 appetizing cup of ,english breakfast tea4 ,my word for it1 you will be tempted to linger over this breakfast1 but stern duty permits no such loitering4 ,no1 indeed2 you must be up and away1 or how on earth are you going to make certain comparisons that shall confirm you in your belief that your new bonnet is nothing less than a dream8 ,dear knows1 ,i hope you won't see any headgear that will take the shine off your own1 for then you will be sure to go home out of sorts1 and the charming little dinner menu that ,i have compiled for your use and behoof might as well be of corned beef and cabbage for all the appreciation it will get from you4 ,clam ,cocktails ,but in case that everything does go smoothly1 and nothing happens to nick your peace of mind1 could anything be more delectable than a dinner which would unfold itself to your delighted palate in this order8 ,to begin with3 ,clam cocktails1 made1 of course1 with the little-neck variety2 they should be put in half-dozen lots into small glasses1 and seasoned with lemon juice1 tabasco1 salt1 and the tiniest suspicion of onion juice--just enough1 you understand1 to cause one to wonder if that delightful flavor is really onion4 ,and then to follow up the good impression left by the clam cocktails1 have a soup of consomm of perfect flavor and delicacy--the sort1 you know1 that doesn't jar with what has gone before or is to come4 ,the to come in this case might be1 say1 of trout1 broiled to a nicety and served with tartar sauce4 ,but if for financial reasons you object to the trout1 why1 then you may get good salmon from the ,west1 or pompano1 and bluefish of fairly good flavor4 ,but whatever fish you decide upon1 have it broiled1 so that you may serve it with some delicious hothouse cucumbers4 ,quite a little fall in the price of cucumbers you will see within the next two or three weeks4 ,lamb ,steak2 ,barnaise ,sauce ,and the price of spring lamb has dropped perceptibly too by this time4 ,now1 please1 whichever part of the lamb you select1 don't have it roasted4 ,have it sliced for steaks1 and broiled to the stage most in favor in your family circle1 then salted well1 but buttered sparingly1 as you must--there is no use in trying to dodge the issue--serve a ,barnaise sauce with lamb steak4 ,have lobster salad without the lobster1 omit the crabs from devilled crabs1 if it pleases you1 but never under any circumstances serve a lamb steak without a ,barnaise sauce4 ,it would be barbarism--nothing short of it6 ,and to make the sauce8 ,well1 put into a saucepan a gill of vinegar and water1 equal parts1 half a teaspoonful of minced onion1 and a few tarragon leaves4 ,let this cook1 tightly covered1 till reduced one-half2 then take it off the fire1 and when cold mix with it the well-beaten yolks of four eggs2 season with salt and mignonette1 and return to the fire2 add slowly to it three ounces of melted butter1 stirring continually till it thickens to the consistency of mayonnaise4 ,then strain it through a fine sieve1 and add to it chopped tarragon1 a teaspoonful1 and the same quantity of chopped parsley4 ,potatoes ,souffles ,and there's just one way to cook potatoes so that they seem quite good enough to accompany a lamb steak1 and that way is called potatoes souffles4 ,the potatoes should be trimmed to ovals two and a quarter inches long by one and a quarter wide1 and then sliced lengthwise1 having the slices half an inch in thickness4 ,when they are sliced1 put them into ice-water to remain twenty-five minutes4 ,then have ready two pans of frying fat1 one just hot and the other piping hot4 ,into the former put the potatoes1 in a frying-basket1 and let them cook without browning till tender2 take them out1 place on a sieve to cool and dry somewhat1 and then plunge them into the pan containing the piping hot fat2 stir them about1 and they will begin to souffler2 then they must be taken out1 salted and served4 ,now1 if anything happens to prevent this course from turning out the howling success that ,i predict for it1 ,i want you to go to my favorite dining place the next time you are in ,new ,york and order the same4 ,you will know then what these two dishes are in perfection4 ,it may be that a salad of new beets would be quite the thing on this occasion2 if so1 you will have no trouble in finding them in good condition1 and as sweet as a new beet should be4 ,here endeth my part of the lesson4 ,set your own pace for a dessert4 99 99 99 99 99 ,although ,i am prepared to sit up nights to sympathize with any one who is really deserving of having me share that emotion with her1 ,i don't have a particle of desire to weep with the woman who weeps because visitors have dropped in on her suddenly and caught her with her cupboard bare4 ,in these days of canned things the woman whose larder doesn't boast as a continuous performance at least half a dozen varieties was never meant for a housekeeper4 ,for my part1 ,i should think ,i was remiss in the duties of a housekeeper if ,i did not have half a dozen varieties of canned soup alone from which to select in time of need4 ,sardine ,toast ,start1 then1 we will say1 an impromptu lunch with a soup canned by any one of the sixteen firms1 more or less1 that so prepare them4 ,of course1 there will be sardines--the stand-by of all housekeepers2 but you will have sardine toast--a rarity with almost every one4 ,wipe the skin off the sardines with a dry cloth4 ,the toasted bread is free from all crust1 mind1 and it is spread with butter mixed with lemon juice and chopped parsley4 ,the sardines are laid on it1 and the whole arrangement set in the oven to heat4 ,anchovy ,toast ,just as tempting a bouche is an anchovy toast4 ,chop the anchovies1 and add to them bits of parsley1 a suspicion of onion juice1 a few drops of lemon juice1 and some paprika4 ,spread this on toast which has been buttered1 and heat quickly in the oven4 ,tunny-,fish ,then1 there's tunny-fish always to be depended upon to furnish an impromptu dish that seems like one planned long before4 ,drain it from the oil in which it is preserved4 ,lay it on a dish1 sprinkle with lemon juice1 chopped parsley1 and capers2 and keep your eyes open for the admiring glances your guests will be trying to hide from you when they first taste of it4 ,then smoked1 boneless herring1 you know1 are good almost any way2 but broiled till they curl up a bit over a hot fire1 and sent to table flanked by olives1 water crackers1 and a bottle or two of lager beer1 they are leaders4 ,of course1 with two or three kinds of devilled meats in the house the making of sandwiches1 even at short notice1 is just a pastime2 and with all the crackers now to be had it would be foolish to waste tears over the absence of bread4 ,in fact1 the world1 the market1 and the grocery store are filled to the brim with substitutes nowadays--substitutes that make it easy to forget originals4 ,although 'tis by signs of promises soon to be richly fulfilled that a market interests me chiefly at this season1 there is no lack even to-day of a good supply of edibles1 both substantial and delicate1 and do ,i go a-marketing determined to buy everything on an economical basis ,i find ,dame ,nature and the marketman in league to help me furnish forth my table daintily and inexpensively4 ,or1 if in a reckless mood of extravagance ,i betake myself to the vendor of viands1 ,i find him and the dear old dame quite as helpful in carrying out my plans4 ,naturally1 in trips to market1 my methodical mind leads me to inquire first what is suitable for breakfast2 what is best calculated to minister to an appetite capricious in the fickle springtime4 ,numerous answers are forthcoming to my inquiry1 the first of which says shad roes made into delicious croquettes with a garnishing of lettuce hearts4 ,very good1 ,i say1 very appropriate1 but what else is there8--every one doesn't care for that dish4 ,and then1 taking the matter into my own hands1 as the marketman is perfectly willing that ,i should1 ,i peer around to see what is to be had1 and make notes mentally for future use4 ,there are mackerel of finest flavor1 which1 if broiled to a turn and having as an accompaniment crisp1 fresh radishes1 are fit to put before a king4 ,another breakfast dish1 which is also quite good enough for any royal person1 is of kidneys broiled on skewers with alternate slices of bacon4 ,a bit of parsley serves not only to decorate this last dish1 but forms a piquant relish for it1 and relishes for breakfast dishes are more of a necessity now than at any other season4 ,the orange juice which has proved so potent an appetizer when the mercury ranges near to zero1 fails to supply the needed zest for a springtime morning meal1 and we must have recourse to a fresh green vegetable1 in addition4 ,from breakfast fare to luncheon dishes ,i turn my attention logically1 and learn that sweetbreads are particularly fine just now in whatever way they are served1 but in my opinion they are never quite so good as when simmered gently in butter and served with cream sauce1 to which has been added a few fresh mushrooms4 ,spring chickens1 tender and toothsome if broiled as they should be1 are worthy of an honored place at any luncheon1 and the marketman tells me those lately received are of excellent quality4 ,that dainty of dainties1 in the estimation of many people1 frogs' legs1 if broiled or served with a cream sauce1 appeals to the most fastidious palate4 ,and just now they are not only plentiful and in fine condition1 but are quite inexpensive4 ,a dish which we cannot always obtain1 and which is especially suitable for a midday meal1 is of the ,taunton ,river alewives smoked2 they should be broiled1 and there should be served with them1 without fail1 a potato salad made from the ,bermuda potatoes1 which are exceptionally desirable at this season4 ,in the ordering of a dinner ,i have always maintained that though it consists of only two courses1 there is an opportunity for the exercise of great discretion4 ,a knowledge of the eternal fitness of things is essential above all else in order to arrange a dinner at which the courses shall not be at war with each other4 ,a certain famous lawyer remarked in my hearing not long ago that he knew women who could play whist and play it as it should be1 and he knew women who could order a dinner fit for the gods1 but never had he known and never did he expect to know1 a woman who could do both4 ,perhaps he was right1 but ,i believe there are women in plenty who are quite capable of doing both to perfection4 ,at this season1 with oysters almost out of the running1 little-neck clams may be depended upon to whet the appetite1 while the soup which follows must be at once delicate and yet so rich that the first spoonful enchants4 ,if the next course is to be of bluefish1 or of salmon1 or of striped bass1 all of which are in first-class condition in this month1 potatoes should be served in any desired shape if the fish is to be boiled or braised2 should it be broiled or fried1 then by all means let its accompaniment be cucumbers1 which are plentiful1 and are sold at a comparatively low figure1 by now4 ,if you follow my advice you will avoid the heavy1 clumsy1 and unimaginative joint4 ,decide rather upon ducklings to be roasted or broiled1 or upon squabs2 or1 if these are a thought too expensive1 choose fowl1 which should be good and plentiful4 ,have it parboiled and then fried ,maryland style1 or fricasseed1 or boil it till quite tender and serve with a caper sauce4 ,as for vegetables1 just now1 and for several weeks to come1 nothing can be better than asparagus1 which improves1 and is less expensive every day4 ,frequently ,i tire of it served on toast1 in which case1 after boiling it1 ,i moisten it with melted butter1 sprinkle grated ,parmesan over the top and brown it in the oven4 ,or1 if ,i wish to serve it as a salad1 ,i have it ice-cold and pour over it a dressing made of oil1 vinegar1 pepper1 and salt1 with a suspicion of ,french mustard added4 ,for salads1 tomatoes1 perhaps1 have first choice1 for they are really very fine1 coming in from the hothouses fresh every day4 ,watercress is at its best estate1 and whether it be served as a salad or taken simply with a grain of salt1 it is a delicacy worthy of honor4 ,it is hardly possible to serve fruit out of place at dinner2 before the soup it is appetizing1 as a compote for an entre it is highly delectable1 while at dessert its presence is time-honored1 and ,i would that there were more varieties in market just now4 ,however1 the strawberries and pineapples due are quite sufficient to console us for the absence of other fruits4 ,with that most delicious vegetable asparagus as good and as plenty as it is bound to be for two months or so longer1 it is but a waste of time to search for any other vegetable to take its place4 ,the truth is1 it hasn't a rival1 and it never had one--even in ,pliny's day1 when it grew wild4 ,but gardeners in those days cultivated it just as they do now1 and it was no uncommon thing for them to produce stalks of which it took but three to weigh a pound4 ,if any gardeners do raise such mammoth specimens in these days they keep very quiet about it4 ,but perhaps they don't taste any better than smaller ones4 ,why should they8 ,it will do to have asparagus boiled1 just plainly boiled1 two out of every three times that you have it4 ,but the third times are those of which ,i would talk4 ,asparagus ,tips in ,cream ,suppose you cut off the tips into inch lengths1 and boil very slowly in salted water till tender4 ,then drain and let get perfectly cold1 after which you brown them a bit in butter in a frying pan4 ,at the first threat to become brown cover the asparagus with cream1 heat well and serve on toasted bread4 ,asparagus with ,savory ,sauce ,if this doesn't satisfy you for a third try another way4 ,cut the asparagus up just the same and boil with it a few new green peas and some shredded lettuce4 ,season with pepper and salt1 and flavor with a few drops of onion juice4 ,add an ounce or two of melted butter to them after draining off the water in which they were boiled1 pour over them half a pint of white sauce thickened1 and then go ahead with the serving on toast4 ,baked ,asparagus ,then you can boil the asparagus tips and heap them mound shape in a baking dish1 pour through them a ,hollandaise or a ,barnaise sauce1 cover the top with grated ,parmesan cheese and brown in a hot oven4 ,asparagus ,salad ,but for asparagus salad be sure that after the tips are taken from the boiling water they are plunged into ice water4 ,then cover1 when serving1 with a ,french dressing in which has been stirred a little ,french mustard4 ,asparagus ,salad #b ,or take some asparagus tips boiled and cooled and serve them on shaved ice with a dressing of salt1 lemon juice1 and horse-radish1 or tabasco1 and with a little bit of your most charming persiflage you will be able to persuade some of your followers that you have produced an excellent substitute for little-neck clams4 ,,may ,some said ',john1 print it1' others said1 ',not so1' ,some said ',it might do good1' others said ',no4' ,,it',s the month when1 by a logical amount of reasoning1 the housekeeper is persuaded that she can easily treat her family to roasted veal1 at least once a week1 without any member of it entering a complaint4 ,she tries it4 ,the second time serving it threatens to go a-begging1 and the third time there is so much left over that it can't be worked up in seven days--when1 by her reckoning1 another knuckle is due4 ,people do tire of veal in short order1 even those who have a liking for it1 for some reason or other4 ,i am inclined to think that a good many times the tired feeling sets in because of the way it is served--not enough is done to prepare the palate for it4 ,olives with ,caviare ,veal1 then1 more than any other roast1 needs to have the way prepared for it1 very gingerly and very delicately4 ,let us discuss a way for doing this4 ,first1 have pitted olives that you have filled with caviare4 ,rest these olives on little rounds of toast that have been spread with caviare1 and sprinkled with lemon juice4 ,pure of ,peas and ,spinach ,now1 for a soup4 ,soak over night a pint of green dried peas4 ,drain1 and cook in plenty of fresh water till perfectly tender4 ,then press through a sieve4 ,have cooked1 at the same time1 a peck of spinach1 and press through a sieve also4 ,then put the two pures together1 season with salt and pepper2 heat well1 adding half a pint of milk4 ,just before taking up1 pour in a pint of cream1 and serve with tiny squares of fried bread in the tureen4 ,ever heard of this before8 ,it's a soup that is rich and delicate1 but not so hearty that it does more than whet the appetite for what is to follow4 ,mayonnaise with ,horse-,radish ,shall we say salmon comes next8 ,it's a thought high as yet1 perhaps1 but you only need a little of it--a pound for four1 where a roast is to follow4 ,but1 to tell the truth1 my insisting on your having it comes almost wholly from a desire ,i have to tell you of a new sauce for boiled or broiled salmon4 ,it is nothing more than mayonnaise1 a half pint1 with a heaping tablespoonful of horse-radish stirred through it4 ,oh1 you will like it fast enough6 ,and you will like it with cold salmon1 just as well4 ,duchesse ,sauce ,by the time the fish is a thing of the past1 you will all be ready for the roasted veal4 ,on this1 of course1 you have had tied thin slices of salt pork before it is roasted4 ,with it1 will you have a duchesse sauce8 ,i think you will4 ,for this you have a pint of good stock1 thickened a bit with butter braided with flour4 ,after it is heated1 there is added to it a wineglass of any white wine4 ,onion ,sauce ,or1 if ,i have made a mistake1 and you will have none of it1 do let me suggest an onion sauce4 ,peel and chop three onions1 and let simmer in plenty of butter1 closely covered1 for an hour4 ,let them brown1 a trifle1 at the last1 and add a tablespoonful of flour with pepper and salt4 ,then add to them half a pint each of white stock and cream4 ,pour this into the pan in which the veal was roasted1 after it is taken out1 set the pan on top of the range and let boil gently for five minutes4 ,it's an improved sauce ,soubise1 you may say1 if any of your guests are led to ask the name of it4 ,but1 if they ask for directions for making it1 don't give them up4 ,advise1 instead1 buying this book to learn1 as you did1 how to concoct such a bit of deliciousness4 ,really1 ,i wouldn't have more than one vegetable with the veal1 and that asparagus1 as it's the season for it4 ,or1 have something else1 if you prefer1 and have an asparagus salad4 ,rhubarb ,sherbet ,for the dessert1 why not a rhubarb sherbet8 ,cut up two pounds of it1 and boil with a few drops of water and plenty of sugar1 the rind of a lemon1 and a little liquid carmine to color it prettily4 ,let this get cool2 strain through a sieve1 and add to it a pint of claret and two tablespoonfuls of rum4 ,freeze1 and have ready to decorate it1 when serving1 some strips of candied ginger4 ,you will find it all that you have reason to think it should be1 coming from this source4 ,apricot ,charlotte ,but1 if you prefer an apricot charlotte1 it shall be my pleasure to tell you how to make one4 ,line the same charlotte mould you always use with sponge drops1 or fingers1 carefully trimmed to fit4 ,in fact1 you want to give them a regular tailor-made fit4 ,then fill with a pint of preserved apricots1 which have been stewed till tender enough to rub through a sieve4 ,stir into it an ounce of gelatine1 dissolved in a little water4 ,let it get perfectly cool1 and then whip into it a pint of already whipped cream4 ,turn into the mould and set away to harden4 ,and you have the most ungrateful family in the neighborhood if they don't count this dinner as a red-letter event in their lives4 99 99 99 99 99 ,think you that upon one of these mornings1 when the mercury shows a sullen determination to do nothing but climb1 climb1 climb1 you can prepare a more tempting dish for breakfast than one of shrimps1 which have been boiled in fresh water1 then salted and cooled1 and finally sent to table upon chopped ice8 ,you will find them at the market for the rest of this month1 at least1 in excellent condition1 and at a reasonable price4 ,and should you elect to serve them according to the foregoing suggestion1 place near them on the table a dish of crisp1 fresh watercress1 lightly piled1 ministering thereby to the eye's pleasure as well as to the appetite's desire4 ,broiled ,veal ,cutlets ,but if1 some fine morning1 a breath of winter comes o'er the land1 via an east wind1 then you will1 perhaps1 crave food served hot1 in which case have veal cutlets 7veal is in fine shape now72 dip them in melted butter and then broil over the coals2 you will find this an infinitely better way of cooking them than by frying1 which so many housekeepers consider the standard method4 ,or1 if you do not care for veal1 try thin slices of bacon1 broiled1 and served on toasted graham bread4 ,as a fruit1 for leading up to either of these dishes1 ,i think you will prefer pineapples1 for they are of delicious quality now1 and sold at a price which also recommends them to your notice4 ,quite as appetizing1 however1 you might find cherries1 but1 though they are of fairly good flavor1 they are a bit expensive1 as they have a right to be1 coming from such a distance4 ,herring ,salad ,it is with intent and purpose that ,i do not suggest that everlasting ,americanism1 beefsteak for breakfast2 to my mind1 it seems far more suitable for the luncheon table1 and just now1 with mushrooms so plenty1 and as inexpensive as they ever are1 a well-broiled1 tender1 juicy sirloin steak1 with a mushroom sauce1 makes a dish fit for the gods1 and yet not a whit too good for human nature's daily food4 ,just as good1 in its way1 for luncheon1 is a herring salad1 made of smoked herring4 ,omit the use of caviare1 which many cook-books recommend1 for you want nothing that will encroach upon the flavor of the herring1 but rather something which will act as its complement4 ,for this purpose use one-third cold sliced potatoes to two-thirds herring1 a plentiful sprinkling of capers1 and the ordinary oil and vinegar dressing1 with the salt put in by a miserly hand4 ,another salad1 suitable for luncheon1 especially if cold tongue is served1 is made of the little ,bermuda onions1 which are abundant now2 they should be minced finely and served ice-cold to win your highest admiration4 ,baked ,chicken ,hash ,and now1 just one more dish before leaving the luncheon table4 ,have you ever prepared a baked-chicken hash8 ,if not1 allow me to suggest that you chop quite finely the cold meat of chicken or fowl1 season it with salt and white pepper1 moisten it with cream or with milk and butter1 scatter bread-crumbs over the top and brown in the oven1 and behold1 you have one of the homeliest dishes in the annals of housekeepers glorified to suit the palate of a veritable epicure4 ,whenever1 at this season of the year1 ,i go to market in search of fish for the dinner-table1 it is only by the exercise of great will power that ,i am able to refrain from buying soft-shell crabs4 ,they are so delicious1 whether broiled or fried1 that it seems positively wicked they should be so expensive4 ,still1 the fish dealer assures me that almost any day the price may break and1 other fish being plentiful1 we can afford to wait patiently for the drop4 ,delicious trout1 of either the lake or brook variety1 are abundant1 and in whatever way they are served are one of the pleasures of the present day4 ,although the month of roses is generally known as the month of salmon1 it is in first-class condition now1 and obtainable at a fairly low figure4 ,no other fish is so capable of reserving2 little scraps left may be warmed in cream and served on toast for breakfast1 made into a salad for luncheon1 or shaped into croquettes for dinner the following day4 ,in the vernacular of the marketman1 spring lamb is getting down on to the earth4 ,which1 being interpreted for ears polite1 means that the price is getting lower each week1 but that the flavor remains unsurpassed2 in fact none but itself can be its parallel4 ,bits of lamb left from dinner may be prepared in the way suggested for baked-chicken hash1 and will1 ,i am sure1 merit your favor4 ,when lamb is suggested1 there follows1 as a natural sequence1 the thought of green peas2 and if the peas in market to-day were only as good as they look1 the thought would be a happy one4 ,as matters stand1 however1 for those who know not the delight of eating peas in less than three hours from the time they are gathered from the vines1 the representatives of this vegetable to be had now will pass muster4 ,for myself1 ,i prefer either cauliflower or egg plant1 both of them plenty and in good condition now4 ,the former if boiled and served with a white sauce1 or baked with cheese is especially gratifying when served with a roast of lamb1 while the egg-plant will be quite as much of a success if broiled1 or stuffed and baked4 ,of course asparagus has attained perfection1 and is so in evidence on every hand that it is not necessary to mention it here4 ,however1 there are many persons of the belief that it is impossible to have too much of a good thing1 and most decidedly asparagus is entitled to come under that head4 ,savory ,tomato ,soup ,shall ,i tell you of three little dinners and how to make them grow8 ,give ear1 then1 and you may hear4 ,the first shall have a foundation of tomato soup4 ,now please don't make a wry face and begin to say unkind things about tomato soup having a past until you have heard me through2 for ,i want to tell you of an economical and really delicious way of making this soup that is not known to every one4 ,just at this season almost all housekeepers will be sure to have on hand two or three kinds of cooked vegetables1 little scraps of each ,i mean4 ,now1 suppose the list to comprise three new potatoes1 boiled1 half a cupful of string beans and about the same quantity of green peas2 to these1 or to any others which you may prefer to use1 should be added two raw onions finely minced and a handful of chopped parsley4 ,put them into a saucepan with two ounces of butter1 a sprinkling of pepper and salt1 and1 after they have simmered for ten minutes1 add a can of tomatoes4 ,season then with a teaspoonful of whole allspice1 a tablespoonful of sugar1 and more pepper and salt if need be1 and cook slowly for half an hour4 ,at the end of that time strain through a fine hair sieve1 put back on the stove and thicken with a scant teaspoonful of cornstarch mixed with a teaspoonful of melted butter4 ,have little sippets of fried bread in the soup tureen1 pour the soup over them and serve4 ,and there you have a soup possessed of all the flavors that make a tomato soup worth the eating1 while it has none of the heaviness of soup made with a rich stock4 ,and the next dish for dinner ,no4 #a shall be of dainty little lamb chops broiled to a turn4 ,have in the centre of the platter a mound of mashed potato1 lean the chops against it1 and serve in this way4 ,with the chops serve string beans4 ,boil them till tender in salted water1 drain them and put into a saucepan with two ounces of butter and two tablespoonfuls of cream to a quart of beans4 ,cook them for three minutes and send to the table very hot4 ,asparagus ,salad ,it would be a sin and a shame to arrange a dinner at this time of year without providing for the serving of asparagus4 ,even though the dinner is to consist of one course only1 that course should be of asparagus4 ,but in the dinner which we are now planning it is to make its appearance at the third course as a salad4 ,it must be boiled till quite tender1 then chilled for three or four hours on the ice1 cut into inch lengths1 and served with a dressing of the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs beaten up with three tablespoonfuls of oil1 two tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 a saltspoonful of salt and the same quantity of ,french mustard4 ,the last course shall include strawberries served in some way4 ,have them plain1 with sugar and cream1 and serve with them narrow strips of delicate puff paste2 or make little tartlets1 and when they are done lift the covers and put a teaspoonful of whipped cream into each4 ,and the cost of dinner ,no4 #a8 ,well1 at the price of comestible wares at this season1 this dinner should not cost over one dollar for four persons4 ,and really it will not require very close figuring to bring it within that sum4 ,bisque of ,clams ,but if that seems too small an amount to expend for a dinner intended to give pleasure to four persons1 there will be no trouble in planning one to cost rather more4 ,and for the first course let us have a bisque of clams4 ,get a quart of clams and a small piece of veal1 about a pound of it4 ,cook the veal in a little more than a pint of water and the liquor drained from the clams4 ,season with one onion1 a sprig of parsley1 a bay leaf1 salt1 and white pepper4 ,cook very slowly for one hour1 then strain and again place it in the kettle2 rub a couple of tablespoonfuls of butter with an equal amount of flour and add to the soup when boiling4 ,chop up the clams very fine1 and put them into the soup2 let it boil for five minutes and then add half a pint of cream4 ,heat thoroughly1 but don't let it boil after adding the cream1 and serve4 ,and after you have partaken of this ,i'll warrant you will be ready to declare that ,grimod de la ,reynire had this especial kind of potage in mind when he said3 ,soup is not only the commencement of a feast1 but gives an idea of what is to follow4 ,asparagus ,tops with ,cheese ,and its close follower in this instance should be some delicious little ducklings roasted4 ,with the ducklings have new potatoes1 from ,bermuda or from the ,south1 plainly boiled4 ,and have1 too1 some asparagus--asparagus tops with cheese4 ,cut the tender part of the asparagus into inch lengths and cook in salted water till fairly tender2 then drain and toss it about over the fire in a frying-pan with a little butter4 ,dress it on a vegetable dish1 spread the surface smoothly with butter into which has been kneaded an equal quantity of grated ,parmesan cheese and just a suspicion of cayenne pepper4 ,brown as quickly as you can in a piping hot oven1 and serve4 ,lettuce ,salad with ,chives ,and now for the salad4 ,does one of lettuce strike you favorably8 ,if so1 prepare it with a ,french dressing1 as you always do1 but after it is dressed sprinkle over it all some finely chopped chives4 ,my word for it1 you'll find this a great improvement over the ordinary lettuce salad4 ,frozen ,strawberries ,a tempting dessert with which to wind up this dinner would be frozen strawberries with whipped cream4 ,let me tell you how to prepare the dish1 and see what you think about it4 ,make a syrup of a third of a pint of sugar and a pint of water4 ,into the syrup put a quart of fine ripe strawberries and let boil for five minutes4 ,then freeze the mixture4 ,whip half a pint of cream1 work it into the strawberries1 and serve in as dainty a fashion as possible4 ,and the amount of money required to furnish forth a table with dinner ,no4 #b8 ,not a cent over two dollars for four persons4 ,asparagus ,soup ,but1 for fear that to many that may seem too small an amount for just the kind of dinner they want to give1 ,i will try again4 ,since we have decided that asparagus must appear in some form at every dinner while its season lasts1 we will start dinner ,no4 #c with asparagus soup4 ,this is made by cooking the tender parts of the asparagus in salted water for a few minutes4 ,before they get quite tender drain till dry and cold4 ,if there are two bunches of asparagus put them into a saucepan with four ounces of butter1 two finely chopped onions1 a lump of sugar1 and a little white pepper4 ,moisten with a pint of white broth and let cook for ten minutes4 ,then rub through a sieve1 heat again and serve4 ,green ,peas with ,mint ,after the soup1 crabs--soft-shell crabs dipped in beaten egg and crumbs and fried4 ,serve nothing but tartar sauce with them4 ,then have a couple of cunning little spring chickens broiled4 ,have new potatoes chopped and baked in cream served with the chickens1 and have also new green peas4 ,try boiling with them a small bunch of mint and a small onion1 both of which are to be removed before the peas are served4 ,you will find that the peas have acquired a delightful flavor from their contact with the other vegetables4 ,of course salt and pepper and butter are to be added as when they are cooked in the ordinary way4 ,for a salad have some hothouse tomatoes peeled and sliced2 lay them on a flat dish1 and on each slice heap a little chopped lettuce mixed with mayonnaise4 ,let us borrow the dessert from dinner ,no4 #b to put the finishing touch to this last dinner4 ,i don't know a better one1 but if you do there's nothing to prevent your using it4 ,and1 do your best1 if you are to serve dinner ,no4 #c for four persons you cannot make it cost over three dollars4 ,are you satisfied1 now1 that ,i know how to make dinners grow8 ,,june ,for her own breakfast she'll project a scheme1 ,nor take her tea without a stratagem4 ,clams ,west ,island ,style ,,clams are good and plentiful now1 said the fish dealer one day1 and as ,i was in the frame of mind to take him at his word ,i hastily ran over in my mind the various ways in which this delectable fish may be prepared1 the while ,i ordered from him the quantity ,i thought ,i could use4 ,it doesn't take very long to sum up the gastronomical possibilities of the clam that are cherished in the minds of most housekeepers1 you will admit4 ,but1 with time and opportunity favoring1 there is room for expansion of ideas with regard to clams4 ,for instance1 this is one way to expand3 ,poach1 say1 a pint of them in their own liquor1 then drain off the liquor1 adding to the clams milk thickened with egg yolks and seasoned with pepper and salt2 forget economy and put in the butter you know it requires to make the flavor perfect1 and on top of all have some tiny rice croquettes4 ,you can't know till you try it just what this dish may reveal served at breakfast4 ,but ,i will not spoil the story by telling you in advance4 ,if1 however1 it's for luncheon that you would be thinking of having them cooked in this way1 add the juice of an onion to them4 ,clam and ,lobster in ,shells ,if you trust to me so far as to adopt the foregoing way of cooking clams you certainly will try this next way of preparing them at the slightest provocation4 ,have as many as you like and chop them4 ,add to them an equal quantity of chopped boiled lobster4 ,sprinkle in some parsley1 also chopped1 and butter to the amount above recommended4 ,season with white pepper and salt1 and with the mixture fill some of the deepest clam shells1 sprinkle bread crumbs over the top and brown in a hot oven4 ,this may be counted on at any time for a luncheon dish when you are planning to go some persons who have entertained you at least one better4 ,stuffed ,baked ,cucumbers ,before ,i forget it ,i am going to tell you of a dish that to my sorrow is rather uncommon1 even among those who think they dine well4 ,it's nothing less than a stuffed1 baked cucumber--that is1 those are the essentials of the dish4 ,the potentials are to be classified by you after you have partaken of it4 ,cut the cucumbers in two lengthwise without peeling them1 scoop out all the seeds1 and fill to heaping each half with a highly seasoned mixture of bread crumbs2 moisten with melted butter and brown in a hot oven4 ,vary this stuffing at your own sweet will--add a few chopped olives or some chopped pimientos--,spanish sweet peppers you know--but have bread crumbs enough to insure the dish getting browned in shape4 ,fried ,cucumbers ,if the idea of cooking cucumbers assimilates itself harmoniously with your ideas of gastronomy you may not hesitate to try a dish of fried cucumbers4 ,and don't let any one infect your mind with the idea that they are especially indigestible4 ,they're not4 ,peel them first1 then slice them into quarter-inch slices1 say1 then dip in beaten egg1 then in crumbs1 and then fry to a delicate brown in a little butter4 ,try either way of cooking the cucumbers with a tender spring chicken broiled4 ,for if you are not deprived of your rights nowadays you should be finding broilers in good condition and not too high in price4 ,you see of game there is little to be said in the ,eastern markets during this month2 so if you are trying to do the handsome thing in the bird line you've not much of a list from which to make a selection4 ,to be sure you have a right to inquire at market for brant just now1 come to think of it4 ,you will be apt to find them1 and in good condition1 too4 ,roasted shall we say8 ,with them new potatoes of course4 ,don't tell me you can't afford them1 ,i know better4 ,and you can also afford to secure some new summer squash to go with the roasted brant4 ,don't ask me where it comes from4 ,i only know that in every up-to-date market it is on sale4 ,so are young1 sweet little carrots that appeal to you for a white cream sauce like that you serve with cauliflower4 ,by now you may reasonably be ordering blackberries if you are longing for a change4 ,but my advice is to stick to the strawberry while it will stick to you4 ,by the way1 if you are to do up strawberries1 get the first natives that come to town4 ,get them1 you know1 before they are soft from overripeness1 and next winter when set on your table just as they are1 or with the syrup of them jellied with a bit of gelatine1 you will see the wisdom of being forehanded with them4 ,give us breakfasts2 tell us housekeepers what we can put before our families for the first meal of the day in summer that shall drive away the morning sulks4 ,thus did a matron young neither in years nor in experience beseech me as ,i set out for market one day4 ,and while ,i was parleying with the marketman as to the ways and means and the whys and wherefores of things edible that plaintive ,give us breakfasts rang so insistently in my ears that ,i could pay no attention to viands essentially suitable for later meals1 but fell to thinking and planning breakfasts which should be antidotes--antidotes for that ill which more than any other human ailment is strengthened by recognition1 the morning sulks4 ,and my first definite plan took shape in this wise3 ,cherries1 for this is the month par excellence for that delicious fruit1 cherries with some green leaves piled upon cracked ice in such a manner that the sight of them refreshes1 while to taste of them leads one to think ,all's well with the world4 ,and then1 to follow1 there must be croquettes of fish2 all kinds are so abundant now that it is only a case of paying one's money and taking one's choice4 ,but whatever fish is chosen1 the croquettes should be smaller than those for use at luncheon or dinner1 for the eye is repelled at breakfast-time by sight of large portions4 ,with croquettes the daintiest and lightest parsley omelette imaginable should be served1 it seems to me1 and there you have a simple breakfast1 easy of accomplishment1 but one sure to be appreciated by ,king ,sulks himself4 ,iced ,watermelon2 ,fried ,chicken with ,cream ,my second plan1 when it assumes tangible shape1 shall be like this3 ,watermelons1 not cut up into ungainly chunks with juice and seeds playing at hide-and-seek in one's plate1 but with the pretty pink portion cut into two-inch cubes1 say1 with all the seeds removed1 and sent to table after being well cooled1 fancifully piled on shaven ice4 ,if you don't mind a little fuss and bother1 you may after it is cut up sprinkle the melon well with powdered sugar1 put it into the freezer and frapp but not freeze it1 and then send it to table4 ,to the palates of many of this day and generation watermelon well chilled comes as a boon1 for the best of men now and then are afflicted with a thirst these warm mornings which nothing save ice-water seems to quench1 but the physicians and moralists have held forth at such length on the subject that one feels like a guilty thing upon taking a drink of cold water before breaking fast4 ,now you are going to ask what will be quite good enough to follow watermelon1 and for answer ,i shall recommend chicken1 or fowl1 boiled the previous day1 and cut into neat pieces1 then browned well in butter1 with hot cream poured over it just before it is sent to the table4 ,if you want a delightful adjunct for the chicken1 let it be cold asparagus1 with lemon juice and salt sprinkled over it4 ,if you have never partaken of cold asparagus at breakfast1 there is a new pleasure in store for you1 for good as this vegetable is hot at dinner or luncheon1 it seems especially apt when served cold in the morning4 ,quite as attractive1 and simpler in preparation1 perhaps1 you will find my third recipe for an antidote1 it goes something like this3 ,to begin with1 blackberries1 growing better and more abundant every day2 to follow the blackberries smoked beef tossed in hot cream which has been seasoned with cayenne pepper1 and thickened a trifle with corn starch1 and--as a complement for the smoked beef you will desire something sour--try watercress dressed with lemon juice and salt1 unless you are so enamored of tomatoes that you prefer them to any other vegetable in the morning1 now4 ,my next 7really ,i don't mean this to read like an enigma7 idea if you choose to put it into action will cause your breakfast table to answer to this description3 ,raspberries1 sweetened a bit1 tossed in whipped cream and put into paper cases which come on purpose for the carrying out of dainty table schemes1 and then chilled on the ice for at least an hour before serving4 ,trouble8 ,oh1 yes1 there's some trouble involved1 but your reward will be swift and sure1 my word for it4 ,something exceptionally dainty and palate-appealing must follow the raspberries so prepared1 and how does the thought of veal1 minced finely and seasoned perfectly1 with poached eggs on top1 coincide with your idea of the fitness of things8 ,ham ,toast ,very soon we shall have currants in abundance1 and it has always seemed to me that when one is to have ham for breakfast they go particularly well for a first course4 ,and the ham is entitled to different treatment in summer from that which it receives in the cold weather4 ,for instance1 just now if you have slices of toast and sprinkle lightly over them grated ham mixed with grated cheese1 and then put them in a hot oven till the cheese is dissolved1 your family will be your debtor to the extent of one new and distinct gastronomical emotion4 ,gooseberry ,cream ,you will soon be able to get desirable gooseberries in the market1 and while the average housekeeper will be engaged in reckoning their possibilities if baked in a pie1 you will1 if you but follow my advice1 cook them in sugar till tender1 strain through a sieve1 cool the pure1 then boil it down and cool once more1 that it may be in readiness for the next morning's breakfast1 served with whipped cream flavored with lemon4 ,you will find that this will pave the way excellently for a fine bluefish1 properly broiled1 and flanked by a tomato omelet4 ,it is not in my province at present to prescribe the different cakes1 muffins1 and rolls that should accompany the foregoing dishes1 for every cook-book sets forth an array of such recipes from which to select one for every day in the year4 ,neither do ,i presume to suggest to any woman in what she shall be clothed4 ,no1 when ,i go into the subject of dress for the breakfast table it will be to exploit my ideas upon the way that men should array themselves4 99 99 99 99 99 ,whatever other faults the out-of-season strawberry may have it cannot be said of it that it induces satiety4 ,and ,i wonder if the season of natives could be long enough to have that effect on the palate4 ,probably4 ,but this isn't the place to go into a discussion of that side of the question4 ,strawberry ,fritters ,serving strawberries is or should be an every-day occurrence while the season lasts4 ,i have told you in other places of two or three ways of serving them that ,i hope you found worthy a place among your collection of recipes for dainty dishes4 ,but ,i believe ,i've said nothing about strawberry fritters4 ,and in case you have never tried them let me suggest that you have them soon prepared in this way3 ,get the very largest strawberries you can find4 ,take off the hulls and cover them entirely with any sort of marmalade1 preferably apricot1 then roll them in macaroon crumbs1 dip them one at a time into the lightest frying batter you know how to make and fry them in very hot fat4 ,drain and roll them in powdered sugar before serving4 ,a really delicious dish you will find these fritters1 quite good enough to be served at dessert for the very best dinner you know how to arrange4 ,strawberry ,pudding ,it comes to pass sometimes1 you know1 that one will have on hand a pint or so of strawberries that can hardly be called passe1 still they have lost their pristine freshness and show symptoms of becoming soft4 ,well1 the best way to serve them is to heat them through in a little syrup1 not letting them lose their shape or their color4 ,then put them into a pudding dish and cover them with a half-inch layer of bread-crumbs4 ,make a custard of four eggs and a quart of milk1 seasoning it with a little grated nutmeg1 pour into the dish with the berries and bread-crumbs and bake for half an hour4 ,it may be served either hot or cold4 ,and you will have reason to be pleased with yourself for having turned out an appetizing sweet1 and one that will help you to foster that pet belief of every housekeeper1 namely1 that you are past mistress in the art of domestic economy4 ,strawberry ,jelly ,another dainty sweet can be made by mashing a quart of strawberries with half a pint or so of sugar1 and then letting them stand for half an hour while you are making a syrup of half a pint of sugar and the same quantity of water4 ,when this syrup has boiled twenty minutes mix with it an ounce of gelatine dissolved in half a pint of water4 ,take the syrup from the fire and strain the strawberries through a fine sieve into it4 ,stand the bowl containing the mixture on the ice and whip briskly for five minutes1 then add the whipped whites of four eggs and keep right on beating till it has the grace to thicken4 ,then turn it into a number of small moulds or one large one4 ,when it is to be served unmould on the prettiest dish you own1 sprinkle powdered sugar over the top and pour a little whipped cream round in a fanciful shape for a border4 ,strawberry ,salad ,if you are going to make a strawberry salad1 and ,i think you will after ,i tell you how1 you should have the strawberries as fresh as possible4 ,cut them in halves1 and if they are the bouncer variety cut them in quarters4 ,put them into a basin with as much sugar as you think they will need2 to one quart of berries add a wineglass of brandy1 a tablespoonful of strained lemon juice1 and then pack in ice till they are all but frozen4 ,dish up in a pile when serving and put a border of whipped cream round the salad4 ,pear ,salad ,a salad of almost any kind of fruit makes an appetizing dish for luncheon or for dinner4 ,one of pears is really delicious if the pears are peeled1 cored1 and cut in thin slices1 laid in a dish1 sprinkled ever so lightly with powdered sugar1 and have a few drops of brandy or rum poured over them4 ,of course this salad1 like all others made of fruit1 needs to be thoroughly chilled before it is served1 to have its appetizing qualities at their best4 ,pineapple ,salad ,if a pineapple salad seems to you a fitting dessert for the particular luncheon you have in mind1 it is easily prepared4 ,be sure that the pineapples1 two of them we'll say1 are perfectly ripe2 shred them thoroughly and throw away the core4 ,put the shredded fruit into a deep glass dish1 and pour over it a good half-pint of powdered sugar mixed with a tablespoon each of brandy and curaoa4 ,this salad should stand for about three hours before serving1 so that the sugar may become quite dissolved4 ,salad of ,several ,fruits ,and a salad of several kinds of fruits makes an altogether charming dish4 ,try it some time4 ,have half a pound of perfectly ripe cherries1 remove the stalks and stones2 have the same quantity of currants1 but have a part of them red and the other part white1 just to make the dish a bit prettier1 and have a quarter of a pound each of raspberries and strawberries4 ,sprinkle over the fruit plenty of powdered white sugar and three tablespoons of brandy4 ,shake about lightly that the sugar may dissolve before it is served4 ,crystallized ,raspberries ,some day when you have been so fortunate as to get some particularly large and good raspberries1 fix them up in this way3 ,hull them1 of course1 and then dip them one at a time in the beaten white of an egg mixed with a tablespoonful of water4 ,as you take the raspberries from the egg roll them1 one at a time1 in powdered sugar and put at short distances from each other on a sheet of white paper to become perfectly dry1 which will take two or three hours4 ,when dry keep on ice till served for dessert4 ,and a dainty dessert you will find it1 my word for it4 ,strawberries and blackberries1 also1 may be treated in the same way1 but ,i doubt if they will find the favor that will be shown the raspberries4 ,raspberry ,cream ,and a raspberry cream is pretty sure to be a favorite dish in almost any company4 ,it is very simple1 too4 ,just press the raspberries through a fine sieve to remove the seeds2 mix in well half a pint of cream and sufficient sugar to sweeten4 ,beat it well1 and as fast as froth rises skim it off and put it on a hair sieve4 ,put the cream that is left in a glass dish1 pile the whipped cream on the top1 mounting it as high as possible1 and serve4 ,banana ,cream ,another delicious fruit cream is made by pressing half a dozen bananas through a fine hair sieve into a basin1 mixing with the fruit one and one-half pints of cream1 flavored with vanilla1 and then passing the whole through a fine sieve4 ,freeze the cream a little--till it just thickens--and then add to it a pint of cream1 two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a wineglassful of ,madeira4 ,keep in the freezer for two or three hours before serving4 ,peach ,cream ,this you will find is also a tempting way in which to make a peach cream1 but if the peaches are not perfectly ripe it will be a good idea to stew them for two or three minutes in a little syrup4 ,the peaches1 of course1 will need more sugar than the bananas do1 but no hard and fast rule can be given for the amount--just sweeten them according to your judgment4 ,have you noticed that with all ,i've had to say about strawberries herein1 not once have ,i quoted ,dr4 ,boteler's remark concerning them8 ,and yet ,i've heard it said that a woman finds it as impossible to refrain from mentioning the famous saying when writing about strawberries1 if only half a dozen lines1 as does a man to omit all mention of ,izaak ,walton when he has anything to say about going a-fishing4 ,,july ,unlike my subject now shall be my song2 ,it shall be witty1 and it shan't be long4 ,,it was with the thought of ,hortensia's garden party weighing somewhat heavily on my mind that ,i made my customary tour all on a market day1 for she had beseeched me with tears in her voice to plan for her a list of appetizing dishes to put before her guests which should not be so elaborate as though meant for a grand dinner1 nor yet so simple as if intended for the refreshment of a ,sunday-school picnic4 ,hortensia would1 ,i felt sure1 see to it that the piazzas1 grounds1 and tent-like buffet were so decorated and adorned that one would at once conclude that ,flora herself had taken a personal interest in the appointments1 and ,i firmly resolved that1 come what would1 my part of the programme should be carried out in such a manner that reasonable grounds should be furnished for the supposition that no less a person than ,epicurus had had a finger in the pie4 ,therefore it was with a full appreciation of the responsibility ,i had assumed that ,i opened negotiations with the marketman4 ,roasted ,doe ,birds ,as all the world knows1 a garden party wouldn't be much of an affair without game1 and fortunately for the hosts and hostesses at such merrymakings1 there are in market at this season now fine doe birds1 which may be seasoned with a little salt1 a suspicion of ,madeira1 roasted in a quick oven1 and depended on to furnish delight1 when thoroughly cooled1 to the most captious of guests4 ,game ,tarts ,another delightful manner of serving game is in the form of tarts--squab or pigeon tarts2 line the tart moulds with paste1 and then fill with the breasts only of the birds1 adding a few slices of mushrooms and moistening with a liquor made by boiling the bones of the birds in a little water well seasoned with salt1 a bit of pepper1 and a spoonful or two of sherry4 ,cover the tarts with the paste1 have perfectly cold1 and unmould before serving4 ,turkey in ,aspic ,just now one may find tender and toothsome young turkeys in the market stalls1 waiting to do duty at any event to which they may be called1 and for the particular occasion in which we are interested at this instant there can be no better way of serving them than by boiling till tender and then cutting into small pieces1 moulding them with the help of aspic jelly into shapes so attractive that one longs to learn if they can be quite as gratifying to the palate as to the eye4 ,and1 by the way1 what a godsend aspic jelly is in the preparation of dishes to be served cold6 ,beef ,tongue ,another cold dish which is looked upon as being a sort of commonplace stand-by is of boiled tongue1 but ,i have found that it is easily raised to a level bordering on the ideal if prepared in this way3 ,boil the beef tongue till tender in water which has been highly seasoned with vegetables1 herbs1 and spice2 remove the skin1 brush the tongue with beaten egg1 strew it thickly with bread-crumbs1 and bake for half an hour in a hot oven1 basting frequently with port wine4 ,let it get perfectly cold before slicing and have the slices as thin as possible4 ,near to the tongue1 as a relish for it1 and indeed for all of the foregoing dishes1 one's sense of the fitness of things approves the idea of having crisp1 thin slices of toast1 sprinkled with the finest little bits of green peppers imaginable1 and masked with a thin layer of mayonnaise4 ,in fact1 one1 if not the best1 way to serve salads at an outdoor festivity1 is upon thin slices of toast of white or graham bread1 as one chooses4 ,for instance1 a lettuce and anchovy salad made by shredding the lettuce and cutting the anchovies in two and dressing with lemon juice and a dash of cayenne1 with the yolks of hard-boiled eggs finely minced1 seems to call for just such a tiny bit of toast as one gets in this way of serving1 to carry out one's idea of perfection in little things4 ,french ,sandwiches ,and after ,i had decided that the salads at ,hortensia's garden party should be so served1 it was quite natural that the idea of sandwiches should suggest itself to my mind2 but before the idea had time to really assume a definite shape ,i hastily but conclusively rebelled against the prospect of seeing those time-honored edibles set forth for the delectation of ,hortensia's guests in the guise of the common or restaurant variety4 ,and this is the way ,i overcame what bade fair to be a troublesome difficulty3 ,rolls1 deliciously fresh ,french rolls1 with a circular piece of the top crust removed and kept whole1 while all the soft part of the roll was scooped out to make room for a filling of chicken1 lobster1 or sardines1 after which the little cover was put back into place1 and the comfort and joy of the partaker was an assured thing4 ,musk ,melon ,jelly ,after the sandwich scheme was fully arranged1 it seemed as though the substantials were well looked out for1 and that ,i must be giving a thought to the fruits which were to make glad the senses of those bidden to the feast4 ,not any great amount of deep thinking was required to make a selection1 however1 for there was an abundance at hand from which to choose2 there were plums1 juicy and sweet1 of richest hues--purple1 red1 and green1 and others of the most tempting golden color imaginable1 and certainly no well-furnished table could afford to be without either specimen4 ,grapes1 too1 there were in an infinite variety1 but for ,hortensia's party ,i chose only black ,hamburgs and ,muscats4 ,of course1 ,i knew she must have peaches1 and ,i spent a weary hour in trying to find some that tasted as well as they looked1 but my labor was in vain4 ,as a compensation for this disappointment1 however1 ,i found cantaloupes possessing a flavor which can only be expressed by the words divinely perfect4 ,and ,i found1 too1 delicious little musk melons to be prepared in this way3 ,slice the melon1 removing both rind and seeds1 put in a preserving pan with a little sugar1 and stew to a marmalade2 rub it through a sieve1 dissolve in it a sufficient amount of gelatine1 and when quite cool mix with it stiffly whipped cream1 flavored with a little essence or liqueur1 as one likes4 ,cakes and ices1 of course1 are as important to the great and unqualified success of a garden party as are the guests1 and of the former ,i decided that the varieties known as ,madeleines and petits fours would be most acceptable to all concerned1 while of the latter there could be no question as to the desirability of mouss with peaches1 chocolat parfait1 and milk sherbet4 ,of quite as much importance as either of the articles mentioned in the foregoing paragraph are the bonbons1 and the advice which ,i have bestowed upon ,hortensia in regard to them ,i repeat here for the benefit of any who may care to follow it1 namely3 ,costly thy bonbons as thy purse can buy4 ,moss ,rose ,for out-of-door feasting plenty of drinks should be provided2 cups1 whether of claret1 hock1 or champagne1 should be made on the spot and not prepared beforehand1 as the taste of stale soda water is absolutely objectionable4 ,cider1 if iced1 is really delicious1 while a drink which the ,english find highly refreshing is called moss rose1 and is made of equal quantities of tea1 coffee1 and cup1 either of the champagne or claret brand4 99 99 99 99 99 ,i have a story to tell you4 ,it has nothing of mystery in it1 neither need it1 necessarily1 prove harrowing2 it is far from being romantic1 and there isn't a glimmer of sentiment in it4 ,it hasn't a moral2 if it had ,i shouldn't relate it4 ,no1 it is just true2 that's the best of it and it's the worst of it1 too1 as you will admit1 because it isn't without a parallel4 ,it--my story--is of a very charming old farmhouse situated near to ,nature's heart4 ,at this farmhouse was gathered together a small company of people known to the natives of that section of the country as summer boarders4 ,to themselves this same company was known as a band of nature-worshippers4 ,one day they were all seated in the shade on a little knoll1 each one trying to outdo the others in the matter of rhapsodizing the eternal hills1 the books to be found in brooks1 etc41 when up spake one of their number who had hitherto been silent3 ,oh1 ,i would give all the delights that this place possesses for one hour in the company of an ice-chest stocked as it could be with the good things in market now4 ,of course this was philistinism of the rankest sort1 and it savored of treason1 too4 ,but the offender held her head high and parried well1 if the truth must be told1 the rebukes of her hearers4 ,the mischief was done1 however2 the seeds of discontent fell upon fertile ground1 made receptive by a long diet of corned beef1 curd cheese and plenty of milk4 ,the next morning every conveyance the farmer-landlord could muster was pressed into service to take his guests to the station4 ,every one of them had received a sudden call to ,boston4 ,but none confided to his or her neighbor the exact nature of this post haste summons to the ,hub1 and when the train pulled into the station they scattered in different directions1 hurriedly saying to each other3 ,see you on the #d4cj train this afternoon2 good-by4 ,and sure enough they were all aboard the train as agreed1 each of them with an armful of bundles4 ,nobody volunteered any information as to what his or her bundles contained1 and nobody asked any questions4 ,they simply ignored the existence of them and talked of how good it would seem to get back to ,peaceful ,valley once more1 with its quietness and vast opportunities for reflection4 ,that night each of them had a private audience with the landlady and the next day at dinner was seen the result of the trip to ,boston and of the said private audience4 ,first of all was brought in some delicious ,spanish mackerel1 broiled to a turn4 ,these were furnished by ,professor ,a41 author of the celebrated work ,does ,angling ,produce ,insanity8 ,he said that of all the fish in market these seemed to him just now the most desirable4 ,oyster ,plant with ,cream ,with the fish were served some of the finest oyster plants that ever found their way into the ,boston market4 ,they were cut in pieces1 boiled in salted water till tender1 then drained and served with a tablespoonful or so of melted butter and cream enough to cover them1 having just a dash of pepper in it4 ,a simple way of preparing them and yet quite good enough for anybody1 as you will see upon trying it4 ,my word for it1 the ,peaceful ,valley boarders thought it a dish fit for the gods4 ,after the mackerel had been discussed and despatched and ,professor ,a4 had accepted with a great deal of grace the vote of thanks presented to him1 the game was brought in4 ,this course was offered for the delectation of his fellow-boarders by ,professor ,b41 author of ,birds ,i ,have ,met4 ,there were delicious chicken grouse that had cost the professor quite a pretty penny1 viz43 two dollars and a half the pair2 and plover of various kinds that were to be had for four dollars the dozen4 ,grouse ,pie ,and this is the way the grouse were cooked3 ,after the feet1 necks1 and pinions had been removed their bodies were divided into three pieces and put in a stewpan with the pinions and a little chopped bacon2 after frying a bit some salt and pepper were introduced4 ,then were added two tablespoonfuls of white wine for each bird2 then the birds were taken off and cooled2 after which they were arranged with the wine in a pie dish with hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters amongst them1 covered with the best pastry crust that the landlady knew how to make1 and it was pretty good1 really4 ,in fact the dish turned out a great success1 as the result of a good many conferences between the donator of the birds and the cook4 ,the ,professor had bought1 the day before1 the latest and best thing in the way of a cookery book1 and after carefully reading it had come to the conclusion that this recipe for cooking grouse would be more easily mastered by the landlady than any other4 ,the beauty of a grouse pie1 too1 as everybody knows1 lies in its being just as good cold as it is hot4 ,roasted ,plover ,the plovers were dressed1 and with a pinch of salt and a bit of pepper put inside of them and the thinnest possible slice of fat salt pork tied over their breasts1 were roasted for about twelve minutes in a hot oven4 ,and with the game was served some of the choicest stalks of celery that it has ever been the lot of mortal to enjoy at this time of year4 ,as for the fruit that was donated for this special occasion you would consider it a treat to hear the landlady tell of it1 and of the sensations she experienced at seeing such a variety when the apples on the ,early ,harvest tree on the south side of the orchard wall were only just beginning to get mellow4 ,there were plums of almost every color under the sun2 there were nectarines1 the mere sight of which would make one's mouth to water2 there were delicious ,delaware grapes and some little white grapes called the ,lady de ,coverley1 that come from ,california4 ,they are just as good1 too1 as one would expect from the name that has been given them4 ,there was a curiosity in the shape of a banana cantaloupe1 and there were all sorts of other melons1 but the melon par excellence was what is known as the ,montreal cantaloupe4 ,they are raised on the banks of the ,st4 ,lawrence ,river1 and simply refuse to grow in any other locality4 ,gardeners in other places have done everything to induce it to become naturalized1 but all to no purpose4 ,the particular specimen that found its way to the ,peaceful ,valley weighed just twenty-one pounds1 and cost the purchaser #b4ej4 ,but it wasn't extravagance to buy twenty-one pounds of such deliciousness1 even if it had cost twice that sum4 ,and what do you suppose these nature-worshippers did after partaking of all the good things herein described and set forth8 ,well1 they went out and sat under the trees and began to talk of what ,thoreau said about huckleberries6 ,i came away then4 99 99 99 99 99 ,as a refreshing entr'acte let us dwell on the subject of ices4 ,let us have something more than just the ordinary way of making every-day routine ice creams4 ,we will say ices--they mean unutterable1 indescribable things that tickle the palate and cool one's very existence simultaneously4 ,though after all it may be well to talk a minute of ice creams--beginning with generalities4 ,the first of these ,i have found is that the easiest and best ice cream is made by using one-third rich cream to two-thirds milk with sugar as desired4 ,no eggs and no cooking4 ,if it is frozen smoothly it is perfect4 ,this1 however1 is but the working plan--the flavoring and the moulding are to be arranged to suit yourself4 ,however1 if cream is not available1 then eggs and milk in the proportion of eight eggs to one quart of milk may be used4 ,this requires cooking like an ordinary custard4 ,sugar to your taste1 but flour or cornstarch are to be left out1 by all means4 ,if you are using fresh fruits1 such as pineapple1 peaches1 strawberries and the like they should not be cooked but be added to the cream after it is frozen and just before it is packed4 ,candied fruit1 fruit used for frozen puddings and the like1 is usually soaked in brandy or rum before adding to the cream4 ,at least1 that's the sort of treatment it gets from me4 ,coffee ,ice ,cream ,just a word about coffee ice cream4 ,for ,i don't think you will find this recipe anywhere else4 ,and it's a pity you shouldn't know of it4 ,have then one pint of very strong coffee1 a gill of brandy1 one quart of cream and three pints of rich milk4 ,then freeze and be thankful whenever a hot day makes it possible for you to serve your coffee at dinner in this way4 ,milk ,sherbet ,a great many people have a preference for sherbets and of these ,i have some charming things to say1 for ,i appreciate a sherbet myself4 ,there's a milk sherbet that suits me down to the ground4 ,it is made of two quarts of milk1 four cups of sugar1 and the juice of six lemons4 ,also the whites whipped well of two or three or more eggs as you feel inclined to use them4 ,surely the lemons will curdle the milk4 ,but don't let that disturb you4 ,put it in the freezer and go ahead4 ,it will come out as right as right can be4 ,strawberry ,sherbet ,for a strawberry sherbet made in this way ,i have a fondness that ,i am not ashamed to acknowledge anywhere3 ,sprinkle over one quart of strawberries half a pound of sugar2 let it stand three hours1 then strain through a coarse cloth1 squeezing hard4 ,to this juice add three pints of water1 as much sugar as it seems to you to need1 the juice of a lemon and freeze4 ,pineapple ,sherbet ,a pineapple sherbet is made in the same way1 though not as much sugar will be required probably4 ,peach ,sherbet ,and for a peach sherbet follow the same directions1 adding a wineglassful of brandy before freezing4 ,currant ,sherbet ,a currant sherbet is a deliciously refreshing thing to have either in anticipation or in reality on a hot day4 ,boil a quart of water and a pound of sugar to a syrup4 ,skim and stir with it a pint of fresh currant juice which has been heated with a little sugar4 ,let this cool thoroughly1 then add the beaten whites of four eggs and freeze4 ,for myself1 ,i am quite through shying when anyone says artificial coloring in food--,i have found the vegetable colorings as innocuous as so much water1 and worth their weight in gold in cases like the present1 namely the coloring of this currant sherbet4 ,the only drawback about which is that of itself it will not be pretty to the eye--therefore hesitate not1 but in with a few drops of carmine coloring4 ,champagne ,sherbet ,a champagne ice isn't such a high-roller refreshment as it sounds4 ,to begin with it's a rank solecism to freeze any but the most inexpensive of champagnes1 and then you don't require many other good things for your ice--the champagne is enough in itself4 ,you just make a very strong and sweet lemonade--a quart of it and half freeze it2 then pour in the champagne and wholly freeze the mixture4 ,get the champagne into the freezer as soon as you can after it is opened before its volatile gas escapes4 ,if you prefer a more hilarious refreshment just keep on with your use of intoxicants by adding after the champagne a wineglassful of brandy4 ,also1 if you like1 you may add the beaten whites of eggs1 ad libitum4 ,champagne with ,strawberries ,while we are on the subject of frozen champagne and the entering wedge has done its work let me speak a good word for champagne with strawberries4 ,freeze together a quart of champagne and a pint of sugar syrup4 ,just at the last add one pint of strawberries which have been halved and quartered and marinaded in a little brandy and sugar for about fifteen minutes4 ,cherries used in this way will make you ready to declare that till you tried it you didn't know how to live4 ,claret ,sherbet ,a claret sherbet is even better than it sounds if you make it in this way3 ,rub the peel of two oranges off with plenty of loaf sugar and then make a syrup of this sugar and a pint of water4 ,when cool1 stir in the juice of three oranges1 a quart of claret1 a tablespoonful of brandy and the whites of four eggs whipped to a stiff froth and freeze slowly4 ,sometimes there is used in this recipe the zest of lemon peel instead of oranges and then there is used some orange marmalade1 heated and strained of course4 ,or any jelly which you may fancy goes in very harmoniously with this concoction4 ,kirsch ,sherbet ,a kirsch sherbet is a delicacy that doesn't put itself in the way of ordinary mortals every day in the week4 ,that's why its welcome is a soulful one when it does appear4 ,you have a pint of chablis and a pint of any preferred fruit syrup1 which you freeze4 ,then at the last there is added to it half a pint of kirschenwasser4 ,by the way1 before ,i forget it1 you may treat watermelon with the frozen champagne exactly as prescribed hereinbefore for strawberries and champagne4 ,all these are but a few of the ices familiar to expert cooks nowadays4 ,but each one herein given is capable of so many variations that ,i am leaving that part of it to you4 ,do you know that ,i am saddened more and more every day as ,i contemplate the power that lies in suggestion and the stupidity of people who will not avail themselves of it8 ,but this is not perhaps the sort of talk you look for in a book that has to do with the material things of life4 ,very well1 we will cut it off4 ,,august ,ah1 you flavor everything2 you are the vanilla of society4 ,,about the only time when ,i am really anxious to have the right to vote is when some legislation tending toward the preservation of the lobster is on the docket4 ,then1 if ,i had the opportunity1 ,i should not only vote with both hands for a close season on that delectable shellfish1 but ,i should lecture as long as ,i could get any one to listen to me1 either on ,boston ,common or in ,faneuil ,hall1 in an endeavor to induce others1 men and women1 to vote with me4 ,i believe ,i should even resort to bribery where ,i thought it would do--and ,i am a fair judge of individuals who don't require their inducements to be too heavily coated with sugar--in order to put it through4 ,as matters are now there are almost as many ways for preparing lobster as there are lobsters in the sea1 and in order to try them all you would better be about it before the supply is utterly exhausted1 or some one in authority calls time4 ,devilled ,lobster ,for devilling lobsters ,i have a budget of recipes1 but this seems to be about the best one in the lot3 ,split the lobster1 after it is boiled1 in two lengthwise1 and put it into a baking-pan2 season with salt and cayenne1 and pour over it plenty of melted butter1 and bake in a hot oven for five minutes4 ,just before serving spread over it a sauce of melted butter thickened with flour and seasoned with a few drops of lemon juice1 a sprinkling of mustard1 and a little ,madeira or sherry wine4 ,lobster ,toast ,lest you should get so attached to this devilled lobster of mine1 ,i hasten to put here an alluring sounding recipe1 hoping you may be induced to try it before forming the devilled lobster habit4 ,first fry a sliced onion in enough butter so that there will be no browning of it4 ,take out the onion in two or three minutes1 as it is only intended to flavor the butter1 and then fry in this butter the diced meat of two boiled lobsters for two or three minutes4 ,sprinkle in some chopped parsley and salt and pepper as you like it4 ,pour over the lobster a pint of white wine1 and as soon as this gets to the boiling point take out the lobster and put it on slices of toast4 ,into the boiling wine put all the butter from the lobsters1 just a few chopped mushrooms1 if they are at hand1 and pour over the slices of lobster toast4 ,have this just as hot as possible when sending to table1 and you will find the alluringness of this dish is not in the telling of it only4 ,lobster ,tartlet ,a lobster tartlet is a gastronomical dream1 let me tell you1 while we are on the subject1 and after you try it you will be telling the same story4 ,you should have tartlet moulds made of the very best puff paste1 which you fill with diced cold boiled lobster1 chopped cooked mushrooms1 a caper or two1 and a bit of mayonnaise4 ,lobster la ,newberg ,lobster la ,newberg is such a staple dish that it seems almost like plagiarizing something or somebody to put it on record here4 ,however1 as no list of lobster dishes is correct without it1 here it shall go4 ,cut the boiled lobster into two-inch pieces and fry over a tremendously hot fire1 either in a chafing dish or on a range1 for just two or three seconds2 lessen the heat then1 or pull the frying-pan into cooler quarters1 while you cover the lobster with thick1 rich cream4 ,let this come to a threat to boil1 then stir in say three egg yolks to a pint of cream1 the yolks stirred in a little cream1 till it thickens a bit4 ,just a dash of sherry1 say two tablespoonfuls1 and there you are4 ,stuffed ,lobster ,tails ,for stuffing lobster tails cut the meat of the lobsters up rather finely1 and add to it half its quantity of mushrooms4 ,fry in butter a bit1 dilute with a little cream1 season highly with cayenne and salt and fill the half tails with the mixture4 ,coat with bread crumbs that have been stirred about in melted butter1 and brown in a hot oven4 ,lobster ,croquettes ,the making of lobster croquettes is a pleasant sort of business1 for there is so much anticipation of good to come stirred in with it4 ,cut the meat--don't chop it--rather finely3 moisten with a bit of cream and the butter from the lobster4 ,mould and roll in crumbs and fry a golden brown4 ,don't go to seasoning these croquettes very highly or the delicacy will depart from them4 ,but you know that4 ,and do you know that you may add to almost any sauce used for boiled or baked fish some diced cooked lobster to the benefit of everything and everybody concerned8 ,well1 you may--my word for it4 ,if ,i were to tack a sub-title to this screed it might very properly be3 ,women's ,luncheons1 inasmuch as it was in aid of one of these mild social dissipations that ,i last perambulated through the markets4 ,very properly also ,i might characterize the trip as a peripatetic wandering through the market-place1 for all the while ,i was in quest of edibles suitable to put before a purely feminine company ,i was talking to myself about the probable origin of this form of hospitality4 ,when1 where1 and by whom it was invented8 ,my own conjecture as to its inception finally took this course3 ,algernon was in the habit of attending a great many goings-on to which women were never bidden4 ,and ,araminta frequently discussed with him the calls thus made upon his time4 ,whereupon it came to pass that after one particularly interesting debate on the subject1 which debate was brought to an end by the sharp1 quick closing of the street door1 ,araminta had an idea4 ,an idea which she called an inspiration1 nothing less1 and it had for its starting-point a luncheon1 a dainty1 gay little affair1 at which no black coat should be allowed to intrude4 ,and the pice de rsistance of the meal should be a sweet called revenge4 ,oh1 yes indeed1 not only would her guests applaud her originality1 but the hearts of the absent males would be torn to tatters at her assumption of independence4 ,and doubtless ,part ,one of the programme was carried out to the letter1 but1 between you and me1 ,i don't believe ,algernon ever lost a wink of sleep over it4 ,in fact1 when he settled the bill ,i have good reasons for mistrusting that he said something about the game being jolly well worth the candle4 ,but to-day the women's luncheon is an institution1 and a very chic and dainty diversion into the bargain4 ,and there are those who make it their business to tell how a woman should be arrayed at such a festivity1 but that is out of my province4 ,if1 however1 you would know how the menu should read at this time of year1 allow me3-- ,cantaloupe4 ,bouillon in cups4 ,lobster patties4 ,lamb cutlets with mushrooms4 ,string beans fried in butter4 ,broiled quails4 ,tomatoes stuffed with celery and mayonnaise4 ,wine ice cream4 ,grapes4 ,coffee4 ,i almost said oysters at the beginning of the menu1 but oysters we shall have with us for several months to come1 while cantaloupes are beginning to say it's about time they were going4 ,as yet1 however1 they are just as delicious and no more expensive than they have been at any time through the season4 ,now as for bouillon4 ,i get it canned1 and think myself very fortunate in being able to do so4 ,but you may prefer to make your own1 and if so you probably have an always reliable recipe4 ,mes congratulations4 ,lobster ,patties ,but if you have a score of recipes for making lobster patties1 ,i honestly believe you will follow the one ,i am pleased to give you herein4 ,i take myself very seriously1 you see4 ,well1 prepare some of the very best puff paste that you know how to make4 ,roll it out on a floured table2 with a fluted cutter cut out some rounds1 put them on a baking dish1 set them on ice for fifteen minutes1 then brush them over with beaten egg4 ,with a plain tin cutter of about half the size of the fluted cover cut through a third of each of the rounds1 dipping the cutter in warm water every time2 this will form the cover when baked4 ,bake in a quick oven4 ,when cooked lift off the cover and scoop out a little of the soft paste inside4 ,for the lobster filling take the meat from a boiled lobster1 cut it into very small pieces and fry a little in butter1 in a very little butter1 till they just threaten to brown4 ,then pour over the lobster bits enough thick cream to barely cover them2 heat this1 but don't let it boil4 ,thicken it with two or more beaten eggs1 according to the quantity of lobster4 ,season delicately with salt and a suspicion of cayenne4 ,have the patties hot and the lobster hot1 and arrange them on a hot dish for serving4 ,for dear knows that a cold or a lukewarm patty is an abomination4 ,lamb ,cutlets with ,mushrooms ,after the patties the lamb cutlets4 ,and1 mind you1 they are to be fried1 not broiled4 ,season them well with salt and pepper1 and fry in a little butter over a brisk fire till browned on both sides4 ,then drain off the butter and baste them with just a little ,madeira wine4 ,dress the cutlets in a circle and pour into the centre a ,madeira sauce with mushrooms4 ,this you make by heating half a pint of any good stock1 adding to it a gill of ,madeira1 thickening it with a little flour braided with butter1 and adding at the last a dozen mushrooms that have been minced and fried moderately in a little butter4 ,you may use sherry instead of the ,madeira for basting the cutlets and for the sauce if you like4 ,and also you may use the tinned instead of fresh mushrooms if you prefer to do so4 ,for fresh mushrooms may not be any too plenty just now1 and consequently are a thought expensive4 ,still1 they're quite worth the price4 ,and now that the law's off probably hereabouts on quail1 you will find them in pretty good condition4 ,indeed1 they are so good that ,i hope you will just have them broiled after salting a bit1 and pin your faith to their own delicious flavor to give delight to your guests4 ,have them served on toast1 if you must1 that has been slightly buttered1 but forget to serve any jelly with them4 ,i've told you elsewhere all about tomatoes stuffed with celery and mayonnaise1 so ,i won't go into particulars this time4 ,but tomatoes will not be with us at the prices for which we can now get them a great while longer1 and celery is remarkably good in quality and low in price4 ,so there's a good broad hint for you4 ,wine ,ice ,cream ,that wine ice cream which ,i have recommended is truly a delightful confection4 ,you have a pint of moderately rich cream1 and you add to it the yolks of five eggs and three tablespoonfuls of sugar1 and then you heat it just a trifle4 ,next you stir in a gill of white wine1 and then you freeze it4 ,when quite frozen stir into it some chopped preserved cherries4 ,then turn the cream into a mould packed in ice to set till time for serving1 when it is to be turned out on a cold dish4 ,doesn't that sound as if it would be worth a trial8 ,you see ,i've simply said grapes in the menu because1 as far as that fruit is concerned just now1 it is a case of paying your money and taking your choice4 ,and what will the ladies have to drink8 ,suppose we say a sip of sherry with the bouillon and a bottle of pretty good ,rhine wine to be brought in with the cutlets4 ,and it doesn't seem to me that it would be overdoing the matter to have a cordial finale--say crme yvette1 or crme de cacao la vanille4 ,of course1 ,i will tell you the approximate cost of such a luncheon4 ,with good management it can be served1 inclusive of the wines1 for twelve dollars for a dozen persons4 ,and that is not bad1 now1 is it8 ,didn't you just enjoy that cooling little entr'acte we had in ,july8 ,i did4 ,let's have another4 ,we will not have anything sweet in this1 however1 we will have it cold and savory4 ,doesn't that hit you favorably8 ,there are plenty of cold and dainty savories that may come to table as your chief dish at luncheon or at dinner or as an entre only1 at the latter meal1 according to the degree with which you manage to put on style4 ,cold ,chicken ,cream ,there's chicken cream1 for instance1 made from a cold boiled or roasted--well1 bird4 ,i don't know whether it's chicken or fowl4 ,perhaps you paid for chicken and got fowl4 ,perhaps you paid for fowl and wheedled the provisioner into giving you chicken4 ,but we will say chicken1 anyway4 ,pick1 then1 all the flesh from the chicken1 mince and then pound it4 ,now add to it half a pint of cream stiffly whipped and half a pint of just liquid aspic jelly4 ,season with salt and white pepper and any other condiment if you like4 ,then have one large or several small moulds and line them with aspic jelly and fill with the chicken cream4 ,let set till cold and stiff and then unmould on slices of very thin fried bread4 ,chop parsley and sprinkle over the creams when unmoulded4 ,chicken ,cream with ,tomato ,another way would be to line the moulds with liquid aspic and a little tomato sauce4 ,when this sets fill with the chicken cream as before4 ,if you like the cream may be omitted from the chicken and when it is unmoulded it may be covered with a ,french dressing or with mayonnaise4 ,any remains of cold meat can be chopped finely1 mixed with shredded lettuce or watercress or parsley1 capers1 stoned olives1 a truffle or two and mayonnaise1 with enough liquid aspic to stiffen it and moulded in any way4 ,these do make delicious presentations of old subjects--just a little labor and a little inventive painstaking and you have accomplished wonders4 ,there are so many garnishes that may be used with these cold things to make them more of a delight that it is impossible to go through the list4 ,sliced tomatoes or cucumbers or some cold cooked vegetable with a ,french dressing--any quantity of them you see once you begin to cast about for them4 ,no one knows better than ,i do that to make the conventional aspic jelly is a labor that involves terrible risks as regards the breaking of the commandment concerning profanity4 ,i don't mind telling you that ,i found it was having such a degenerating effect on my whole moral nature that ,i hit upon using just the best gelatine ,i can buy--this is not the place to name it1 however--and dissolving it in a clear stock--white or brown as the case demands4 ,try it in making these aspic things4 ,cold ,cutlets in ,jelly ,you know1 of course1 that cold cutlets are the most impossible left-over thing with which the housekeeper has to deal4 ,but prepare some savory jelly with stock and tomato sauce and coat these left-over cutlets with it some day and have them for luncheon4 ,you will confess that you have learned something worth knowing4 ,then there are numberless kinds of fish1 almost any kind in fact that doesn't run to bone1 that will flake well2 dip the pieces in a jelly of this kind diluted with any kind of sauce--,hollandaise1 vinaigrette1 tomato1 and so on to the end of the list4 ,now1 mind1 when ,i say coat these viands with this jelly ,i don't mean for you to give them a regular ulster for a coat--but a little thin diaphanous jacket1 suitable for hot weather1 you understand4 ,when you can use cream in the jellies1 either whipped or straight1 the daintiness of them is increased by just so much4 ,there are some kinds of game--dark game especially--that you may slice and coat with this jelly using currant jelly with it also and get some combinations that will drive your friends to despair4 ,bear in mind that these jellied things must be kept on ice till served and the plates on which they are served must also be ice-cold4 ,it does seem too bad for me to have to burden my soul with such instructions for you--they should be needless4 ,but when good fortune takes me to luncheon in a crack hotel and ,i get my salad on a hot plate1 or a hot plate set before me for the serving of it1 ,i am forced to the conclusion that the mental lightweights are still in evidence and there's no knowing but what some of them in a moment of lucidity may become the owner of this book4 ,therefore ,i go into tiresome details1 occasionally4 ,,september ,but the fruit that falls without shaking ,indeed is too mellow for me4 ,,there are persons1 as some of us can testify1 who appear to be horrified if a ,manhattan cocktail is mentioned in the most casual manner1 and who are warranted to shy if they but get a whiff of a ,martini1 but give them a chance to partake of an oyster cocktail and you have added a substantial item to their sum of worldly pleasure4 ,almost everybody likes an oyster cocktail when it is judiciously mixed1 but folk of the ilk above referred to do seem to have a peculiar fondness for it4 ,now1 is it because a course of total abstinence has rendered their palates extremely sensitive to highly seasoned impressions1 or is it that the name has a witchery that beguiles them into thinking that they are tasting a forbidden thing without sacrificing a principle8 ,i don't know4 ,you tell4 ,oyster ,cocktail ,and tell me1 too1 if this is the way you set about preparing one of these palate-ticklers4 ,half a dozen little oysters dropped into a glass1 with their juice1 a little lemon juice1 four miserly drops of ,tabasco sauce1 half a teaspoonful of ,worcestershire sauce1 a dessertspoonful of tomato ketchup1 and several grains of salt4 ,or do you substitute horse-radish for the ,tabasco8 ,they tell me it's frequently done1 but for myself ,i prefer the ,tabasco4 ,it is a vexed question1 anyway1 this matter of what shall be put on a raw oyster to make it more palatable2 the real dyed-in-the-wool epicurean vows that it is nothing short of barbarism to use more than the tiniest pinch of salt1 while many a discriminating gourmet declares that the more you do for an oyster the more it does for you4 ,so there you are4 ,baked ,oysters ,but epicureans and laymen alike are agreed on one point1 and that is the way to bake oysters so that they are worthy of a place on any table4 ,put into a small lined stewpan a quarter of a pound of butter and one teacupful of cream1 stirring it well over a quick fire till hot4 ,add a wineglass of sherry1 a tablespoonful of anchovy sauce1 and a skimpy sprinkling of cayenne and grated lemon peel4 ,stir over the fire till it bubbles once4 ,then pour half of the mixture into a baking dish4 ,lay the oysters on it1 besprinkle them with a scanty covering of bread-crumbs and grated ,parmesan cheese1 with salt and pepper4 ,pour the remainder of the cream over all and brown to a good color4 ,once one gets in the way of baking oysters as herein prescribed1 one's recipe for scalloped oysters1 no matter how true and tried1 will be lost sight of4 ,oyster ,stew with ,cream ,and the same fate will likely befall one's rule for making an oyster stew1 provided one adopts this suggestion for preparing oysters with cream4 ,in the first place there should be put into a saucepan a pint of cream with a tiny piece of onion and a little mace tied up in a muslin bag4 ,when the cream boils thicken it with a tablespoonful of flour mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream4 ,heat a quart of oysters1 with their liquor and sufficient salt4 ,then drain and put them into a dish which is to be sent to table2 pour the cream over them1 removing the onion and mace4 ,with the dish serve toasted bread or biscuit4 ,devilled ,fried ,oysters ,undoubtedly all your friends are ready to take oath that you do have at your table the very best fried oysters they ever tasted4 ,but the next time that you regale them with the dish1 let the oysters be devilled and then fried4 ,wipe the oysters perfectly dry and lay them on a flat dish4 ,have a goodly supply of butter at just the melting point1 mix with it a little salt1 a suspicion of cayenne1 and a certainty of lemon juice2 pour this over the oysters and leave them in it for at least ten minutes4 ,then roll them in a paper of cracker crumbs or sifted bread-crumbs2 dip them into beaten egg1 then into the crumbs again1 and fry in boiling lard4 ,stuffed ,fried ,oysters ,or you can make a dish of fried oysters even more elaborate if you will chop six ounces of the white meat of any fowl with one ounce of fat salt pork1 pound it in a mortar till your stock of patience threatens to strike1 then chop a few truffles to the size of peas1 and add them with a little white pepper to the chopped meat4 ,have four dozen oysters wiped dry1 and with a sharp knife make an opening in the side of each one2 fill the holes with the mixture4 ,dip the oysters in crumbs1 then in egg1 again in the crumbs1 and fry4 ,oysters1 ,celery ,roast ,now see to it that your guests don't exhaust their pet adjectives on either of these dishes4 ,they will need at least a good round dozen of superlatives after an experience with a celery roast of oysters4 ,and this is the way the story goes3 ,have ready some dainty slices of bread1 toasted1 with the crusts removed4 ,wipe dry and broil some of the smallest oysters you can get2 broil till they begin to shrivel all round1 then put them on the toast4 ,sprinkle a little salt over them2 cover them with some finely chopped celery4 ,salt the celery a bit also4 ,have ready cream heated1 but not boiled1 and pour it over the whole4 ,serve it as hot as possible1 and rejoice in the fact that you have demonstrated how divine a thing an oyster may be made4 ,oyster ,pie ,it's a thousand pities that everybody doesn't know how to make good puff paste1 for without that knowledge it is impossible to make a good oyster pie2 but in case you are an adept at puff paste making1 just try concocting one some fine day4 ,line a pie dish with the paste and fill it with uncooked rice2 butter the paste that covers the edge of the dish and lay a cover of puff paste over the pie2 press the edges together a bit and trim them neatly4 ,meanwhile prepare a quart of oysters by draining them from their liquor and chopping them fine4 ,mix a teaspoonful of cornstarch in a very little cold milk1 and pour over slowly half a pint of boiling milk or cream2 when it is thick and smooth add to it an ounce of butter4 ,season the oysters with salt and pepper1 and stir them into the mixture2 simmer for five minutes4 ,when the pie-crust is done remove it from the oven1 take off the top crust1 turn out all the rice and fill the dish with the oysters2 put on the cover again1 and set in the oven to get thoroughly hot4 ,they do say the recollection of an oyster pie so made is one of the sweetest echoes to start when memory plays a tune on the heart1 even though one lives to be as old as ,methuselah4 ,pickled ,oysters ,and now let me tell you of a way to prepare oysters so that they may come under the head of stand-bys1 so dear to every housekeeper4 ,take two quarts of oysters and put them into a porcelain-lined saucepan with their own liquor strained1 half a grated nutmeg1 a teaspoonful of salt1 a little cayenne1 and half a pint of strong vinegar4 ,then into a muslin bag put half a teaspoonful of cloves1 two blades of mace1 a teaspoonful of allspice1 and two bay leaves2 put this in with the oysters4 ,let them cook very slowly1 stirring all the while with a wooden spoon4 ,as soon as they come to a boil pour them into an earthenware jar4 ,when thoroughly cold they are ready to serve2 if they are well covered in a cool place they can easily be kept for a week or even longer4 99 99 99 99 99 ,of late years1 when the subject of home-made preserves and pickles has been referred to in my hearing1 ,i have been wont to assume a very superior and quite top-lofty air1 and to remark in a know-it-all tone of voice3 ,oh1 life's too short for me to bother with anything like that2 give me the fruits and vegetables and all other edibles that one can buy preserved in tin or glass the year round2 they're better than home-made nine times out of ten1 they cost no more in the end1 and there's slight necessity for guesswork when you are to open a can as to the condition of its contents4 ,sometimes1 if ,i had a very tractable audience1 this would end all discussion for the time being4 ,at others it would fairly set the advocates of domestic preserving by their ears1 and then you may be sure they defended their cause in good earnest4 ,but they never induced me to go in for anything of the sort4 ,still1 ,i now have on hand a very fair array of jars and bottles and tumblers filled with jellies and jams and pickles1 and they are home-made1 and they are old-fashioned and ,i am proud of them4 ,and ,i'll tell you how it happened4 ,out in the country1 three weeks or so ago1 ,i was passing a farmhouse where the door opening into the kitchen stood wide open1 and through that open door came a fragrant breath that called to mind numberless sweet woodsy smells4 ,there was in it a suggestion of sweet fern1 a reminder of bayberry1 a hint of sassafras and a distinct likeness of grapevine blossoms4 ,and this divine odor was conjured up1 ,i learned1 by the stewing of grapes--wild grapes1 of course2 the cultivated varieties being quite out of it when it comes to preserving4 ,that settled it4 ,within twenty-four hours from that time there was issuing from my kitchen an odor of wild grapes a-stewing4 ,grape ,jam ,to go into particulars1 ,i was making grape jam4 ,i weighed the grapes1 and to every pound ,i allowed three-quarters of a pound of sugar4 ,then ,i squeezed the pulp out of the skins1 putting the pulp in one bowl and the skins in another4 ,the sugar with a quarter of its quantity of water was boiled in a preserving kettle till it was quite clear4 ,then was added to it the pulp of the grapes which were boiled ever so slowly for twenty minutes--when they were rubbed through a hair sieve and put back on the stove1 with the skins added to them4 ,then they were boiled until the skins filled and looked good and plump4 ,and when they were quite cooled ,i put them into jars covered tightly to keep out the air4 ,next winter ,i shall depend upon this jam to help me out at many a luncheon with hot buttered toast or with waffles4 ,and ,i've a strong notion that it won't play me false4 ,quince ,marmalade ,you know how one word leads to another4 ,well1 ,i find that one preserve leads to another just as surely4 ,after making the grape jam ,i was determined to try my hand at quinces--at quince marmalade4 ,and it turned out such a success that ,i offer the recipe for your use if you like to try it4 ,peel and cut into thin slices four pounds of quinces1 put them into a preserving kettle1 with half their quantity of peeled and sliced sweet apples1 two quarts of water and the juice of a lemon4 ,cover the kettle and let the contents boil quickly till softened2 then put in three pounds of crushed sugar loaf1 and stir over the fire while it boils slowly for twenty minutes4 ,take the kettle from the fire1 pour the marmalade into jars1 and when it is cool tie brandied papers over the tops4 ,i shall find many uses for this sweet1 ,i fancy1 and some day when ,i am quite put to it to know what to have for dessert1 ,i shall just have the simplest sort of a bread pudding1 and for a sauce some of this quince marmalade4 ,quince ,jelly ,and having made the marmalade1 ,i find that no reasonable excuse exists for not making quince jelly1 because the parings can be used along with more of the fruit4 ,core the whole fruit and put this with the parings into a stewpan with just as much water as will cover them2 stew them gently till they are tender1 but not red4 ,strain the juice from the quinces without pressing them1 measure it1 and for each cupful allow an equal quantity of crushed loaf sugar4 ,pour the juice into a preserving pan and boil it for twenty minutes1 then add the sugar and boil until reduced to the consistency of jelly1 stirring it well all the time4 ,strain through a jelly bag and pour into small jelly tumblers4 ,and this you know is going to be not only a toothsome bit1 but if ,i put it into a pretty and suitable dish and set it in just the right place on my luncheon or dinner table1 it will be a thing of beauty4 ,plum ,jam ,i'm feeling rather proud1 too1 of my success with plum jam4 ,it really strikes me as being delicious1 and from the favored few who have been allowed to taste it1 ,i have heard very flattering things4 ,so you shall receive this recipe also4 ,have ready say twelve pounds of large ripe plums peeled and divided into halves2 crack their stones1 blanch the kernels and pound them in a mortar4 ,put the parings and cracked stones into a pan with three quarts of water4 ,boil this until it is reduced one-half1 and then strain it through a fine wire sieve4 ,put the fruit into a preserving pan with the strained liquor and pounded kernels and twelve pounds of crushed loaf sugar4 ,cook over a slow fire until it is reduced to a stiff jam1 then turn it into jars and let it stand till quite cold1 sift into each jar a layer of powdered sugar1 cover with rounds of paper dipped in brandy1 tie securely and put away4 ,some foggy morning spread a little of this jam on some toasted muffins for breakfast1 have some ,english breakfast tea1 and play you are in ,lunnun4 ,brandied ,plums ,really1 you know1 ,i shouldn't feel that ,i had done the right thing by you if1 after recommending that jams be covered by brandied papers ,i should omit to say something of plums preserved in brandy4 ,they make a dainty tidbit1 serve them when you will--morning1 noon1 or night4 ,you don't want to use plums that are any more than ripe2 in fact1 if they're not much more than half-ripe it will be quite as well4 ,say you have eight pounds of them2 prick them all over and put over the fire in cold water4 ,as soon as the water boils and the fruit rises to the surface take out with a skimmer and lay them in a pan of ice water4 ,then make a clear syrup of two pounds of loaf sugar and a pint of water4 ,put in the plums and let them boil up just once2 and let them stand in the syrup over night4 ,the next day take them out of the syrup1 boil this once1 put in the plums and let them boil just once and let them stand over night once more in the syrup4 ,repeat this operation the next day and the following day1 then drain the plums and put them into bottles4 ,boil the syrup till it will almost candy1 and when quite cold add to it three-fourths of its own quantity of the best brandy you feel that you can afford1 mix thoroughly with the syrup1 strain it and pour over the plums4 ,cork the bottles securely4 ,brandied ,peaches ,but if it's peaches that you want to see in brandy1 you go about it in this way3 ,split the peaches in halves and boil them in a syrup such as is used for the plums4 ,boil them two minutes only1 then take them out and remove their skins1 put them back in the syrup to simmer for five minutes2 take the pan off and leave the peaches in it till the next day4 ,then drain and arrange them carefully in jars4 ,boil the syrup down and mix with it an equal quantity of white brandy and when quite cold pour it over the peaches4 ,cover the jars tightly4 ,and it's not for me to tell you when to use them1--because the using of brandied peaches soon becomes a fixed habit1 and it's pretty hard to be able to tell when not to use them4 99 99 99 99 99 ,apples in ,vanilla ,syrup ,why is it that housekeepers1 the land over1 with excellent reputations as good managers1 see in an apple only three possibilities1 to wit3 apple pie1 apple sauce and baked apples1 when by the aid of a vegetable spoon1 such as is used for preparing ,parisienne potatoes1 the apples may be scooped out into balls1 cooked in a syrup flavored with vanilla1 served hot with a sprinkling of finely chopped pistachios over all1 and so served be worthy a place on the table of the veriest gourmet8 ,hardly a whit more trouble involved1 you see1 or expense1 for that matter1 than in the preparation of apple sauce1 and yet how much more appetizing and wholly satisfactory6 ,again1 if you want to idealize baked apples1 have them peeled and cored1 then boil in a flavored syrup till tender1 but firm1 and with sugar and burnt almond scattered over them set in oven to acquire a delicate brown4 ,garnish when serving with bits of marmalade or jelly4 ,fried ,apples ,the frying of apples successfully is a ticklish matter1 it must be admitted1 but if the fruit is perfectly sound when peeled1 cored1 and quartered1 the fat piping hot1 with only a few pieces dropped in at a time1 if1 as ,i say1 all these conditions prevail and your fried apples be not a success1 then rest assured there is some witchcraft at work and you are in no wise to blame4 ,the pity will be none the less1 however1 for nothing so complements delicious little pork chops for a luncheon dish as apples so prepared4 ,and pork chops1 by the way1 are quite to be desired these cool autumn days4 ,apple ,salad ,nothing can exceed the joy-giving properties of an apple salad if it be rightly concocted4 ,for myself ,i prefer that there shall be a judicious mixture of celery with the apple1 that the pepper1 salt1 and oil be added with a sparing hand1 and that without fail lemon juice shall be used in place of vinegar4 ,it hardly seems necessary to say1 and yet one never knows just what is the proper stopping place in giving advice1 that a steel knife must not be allowed to touch the apples1 else what might have been and should be a thing of beauty is a damaging blight to an otherwise perfectly appointed table4 ,this kind of salad is in its rightful place when accompanying any variety of black duck1 and just now wild ducks are of prime flavor4 ,the marketmen know this1 but ,i find that not many of them know why these birds are to be in their best estate for the next two months1 when the reason as explained to me by sportsmen is both sound and plausible1 namely1 that now the birds are getting their feed where it is the sweetest and best1 along the shores of fresh ponds1 but later when ,jack ,frost shall have done his perfect work they must hie them to the salt marshes for sustenance1 and very soon thereafter the fact of their changed diet is made manifest to those who dine from them4 ,pears in ,vanilla ,syrup ,one can hardly talk of ways and means for treating apples and leave unsaid one or two directions for serving pears so that they shall be quite good enough to do duty upon any occasion4 ,have you ever tried peeling them1 splitting them in two lengthwise1 scooping out the core1 cooking till tender in a syrup strongly flavored with vanilla1 and then draining them1 filling the hollows left by removing the cores with powdered macaroons8 ,if you have1 then you know how to complete the pretty task2 if not1 then ,i will tell you that after the macaroons have been added the two parts of a pear must be put together1 the pears laid on their side alternately with tiny rice croquettes which have been coated with apricot marmalade or any preferred jam4 ,you may take the syrup in which the pears were boiled and adding to it a little whipped cream pour it over the whole4 ,my word for it1 if the early part of your feast has consisted of such delicacies as nightingales' tongues and plovers' eggs1 pears so prepared will seem a fitting dessert1 but if1 as is more probable1 you have dined from a perfectly broiled chicken 7and they were never better and less expensive than now71 you will find this dish of pears quite the crowning beauty of your dinner that it deserves to be4 ,stuffed ,stewed ,pears ,and while we are on the subject of cooking pears ,i will tell you of another way in which ,i have always seen them find favor4 ,after they are cooked and the core scooped out ,i fill them with a mixture of several kinds of fruit1 finely chopped1 laying them on a shallow dish of rice and cream1 pouring syrup over them4 ,pears ,stewed in ,claret ,now for another way of cooking pears as they should be1 to be not like other folks' pears3 let me suggest that you get inexpensive1 oh very inexpensive claret in which to stew pears the next time you see fit to have them4 ,stew them till tender1 then take them out and add to the claret what sugar you think is needed to have it sweet enough when it is boiled down to about one-half the original quantity4 ,pour over the pears and let cool before serving4 ,sublimate this idea1 if you see fit1 by sprinkling in chopped almonds or chopped pistachios or any other little pleasantry that occurs to your inventive genius1--that is1 if you've an inventive genius that is to be trusted4 99 99 99 99 99 ,fried ,chicken1 ,italian ,style ,suppose you find1 on one of your trips to market this month1 as you probably will1 that poultry is very low in price1 won't you give this suggestion a trial8 ,cut a chicken up as for a ragout1 and boil it in as little water as will cover it1 seasoning the water with a small onion1 salt1 white pepper1 and a gill of sherry wine4 ,when the chicken is almost tender enough1 drain it from the liquor and let it get perfectly cold4 ,meanwhile have in a stewpan half a gill of olive oil1 with a pinch of minced onion and a little salt and pepper4 ,when this is quite hot and the chicken quite cold1 cook the chicken in it to a delicate brown4 ,dish the chicken when it is browned evenly1 and pour over it a sauce made by adding a gill of the stock in which it was boiled to the oil in the stewpan1 thickening it all with the yolks of two eggs4 ,this makes a most delicious dish and is well worth the trial4 ,the frying in oil gives it its distinctive flavor1 and makes it very different from fowl fried in butter1 which is in ,france always called poulet saute1 to mark the difference4 ,with ,tomatoes ,and this same dish can be varied a little by using tomatoes with the chicken4 ,after the chicken has been fried in the oil1 lay it on fried tomatoes1 and then pour the sauce over all4 ,have the tomatoes as large as possible and not too ripe2 slice them1 dust them with salt and pepper1 and fry very1 very slowly in a little oil till they are cooked2 but don't let the slices get out of shape4 ,roast ,duck with ,orange ,sauce2 ,broiled ,devilled ,tomatoes ,if you think you would prefer a roast of poultry1 do try ducks to be had now4 ,roast them in any way that experience has taught you is the best1 but when it comes to making the sauce for them1 let me have a word to say4 ,mince two or three slices of bacon and a small onion and fry together for five minutes2 add to them the juice of an orange and a wineglassful of port wine1 the drippings from the pan in which the ducks were roasted1 and a seasoning of salt and pepper4 ,it's an ideal ,september dish1 that's what it is4 ,and you might accompany it or follow it with another that is particularly seasonable1 namely1 broiled devilled tomatoes4 ,first you mash the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs1 then you mix with them a saltspoonful of salt1 one teaspoonful each of powdered sugar and mustard1 and as much cayenne as your taste calls for2 then stir in three ounces of melted butter1 and when all the ingredients are well blended add three tablespoonfuls of vinegar4 ,at this stage put the mixture over the fire to reach the boiling point1 and stir in two well-beaten eggs4 ,when it has thickened a bit stand in hot water on the stove to keep warm while you give a little attention to the tomatoes4 ,these must be ripe and firm4 ,cut them in half-inch slices1 broil over a clear fire1 place on a hot dish1 pour the sauce over them1 and there you are4 ,this makes a really appetizing breakfast dish as well as a savory dinner course4 ,try it some morning1 having with it crisp broiled bacon and some dainty rice muffins1 and you will find yourself considerably above par with your household for the rest of that day at least4 ,broiled ,tomatoes on ,toast ,and in a day or so follow up the good impression by having at luncheon tomatoes prepared in this way3 ,cut some round slices of bread and fry them delicately in butter till they are brown4 ,slice firm1 ripe tomatoes to match the sizes of the bread slices2 broil the tomatoes just a wee bit1 and then lay a slice on each piece of the ,french bread4 ,season them with pepper and salt1 scatter grated ,parmesan cheese over them1 spread them with a layer of fine bread-crumbs moistened with melted butter4 ,brown in a hot oven and serve piping hot4 ,and if the man o' the house is the right sort you will get a vote of thanks in the shape of a big bunch of the earliest and brightest chrysanthemums to be found in town4 ,celery and ,apple ,salad ,have you ever made a salad of apples and celery8 ,use sour apples cut into dice-shaped pieces1 and cut the celery into half-inch bits4 ,arrange in the salad dish in this way3 ,a layer of the apple1 then a sprinkling of capers2 next a layer of the celery1 and over this three or four olives cut in thin slices1 and so on till the dish is full4 ,make a dressing of a saltspoonful of salt1 a good dash of cayenne pepper1 the juice of a lemon1 and six tablespoonfuls of olive oil4 ,pour this over the apples and celery about ten minutes before serving4 ,be sure that you let the youngsters have all of this salad that they want1 for it will be hard to concoct a more wholesome and healthful one4 ,apple ,sauce with ,orange ,juice2 ,with ,whipped ,cream ,and ,i am going to suggest a variation or two of the apple sauce theme for your approval4 ,go ahead and get your apples ready as you always have1 and when you put them on the stove to cook add to them the peel of an orange4 ,when the apples are quite cooked press them through a sieve1 add brown sugar to them to taste1 and the juice of one orange to a pint of apple4 ,put this on the stove to cook for about two minutes1 and then put aside to cool before serving4 ,or1 stew your apples till they are tender1 press them through a sieve1 add to them the amount of sugar they require1 and when they are quite cold beat up with them lightly some well-whipped cream--a pint of cream after it is whipped to a quart of apple sauce4 ,pear ,salad ,now1 if it comes to pass that neither or both of these ways of making apple sauce finds favor with you1 you will certainly give an attentive ear to a hint on the subject of pears4 ,for one of the daintiest and most seasonable of desserts is a pear salad4 ,know how it is made8 ,have the pears quite ripe1 cut them in thin slices1 lay them in a glass dish1 sprinkle powdered sugar on them1 pour over them a glass of brandy which has in it a dozen drops or so of lemon juice1 and let stand on ice for about fifteen minutes before serving4 ,it is a good idea also to have the pears on ice for two or three hours before they are sliced4 ,stuffed ,pears ,another delectable dessert made from pears is called stuffed pears4 ,cut them in two and scoop out the core with a vegetable spoon4 ,cook the pears very gently in a little syrup till they are quite tender4 ,drain them1 and have ready any kind of marmalade into which you have stirred chopped almonds4 ,stuff the pears with this and put them together in their original shape4 ,have in a dish a thin layer of boiled rice1 over which you have spread a little whipped cream4 ,arrange the pears in a circle on the rice1 and fill the centre with the same kind of marmalade as that used for stuffing the pears4 ,stuffed ,peaches ,and peaches may be prepared in just the same way2 but you may add just a few of the kernels of the peaches to the syrup while you are stewing them1 which will give them a delightful flavor4 ,indeed1 ,i think it is always an improvement to use some of the kernels when cooking peaches for any way of serving4 ,in tarts the kernels should be chopped as finely as possible4 ,peach ,cream ,peach cream makes a dainty and delicious dessert4 ,have a dozen ripe peaches1 peel1 remove the stones1 and then stew them with half a dozen of the kernels in a syrup made of half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water4 ,when the peaches are quite soft press them through a sieve4 ,mix with the pulp one pint of cream1 whipped1 and one ounce of dissolved gelatine4 ,wet a fancy mould with cold water1 pour in the preparation1 and leave till firm4 ,unmould when serving4 ,to be sure1 there's no way in the world that a peach is so delightful as when eaten from the hand1 but it must be the very best sort of a peach to be eaten in this way1 and the best sorts just now may be a thought expensive4 ,that is the reason ,i have suggested ways for cooking them1 because one can use an inferior quality and yet get perfectly satisfactory results4 ,and that isn't possible with most of life's commodities4 ,,october ,fill up the bowl1 then1 fill it high-- ,fill all the glasses there1 for why ,should every creature drink but ,i2 ,why1 man of morals1 tell me why8 ,,when all the world adopts the ,pythagorean menu as its standard of good living then ,i will bestir myself and concoct the daintiest dishes possible from those foods that are freshly chemicalized by the sun's rays1 and will gladly give you the benefit of my experiences4 ,but ,i'm no reformer1 and until that day of universal self-denial arrives ,i will continue the tenor of my way along the old line1 and try to idealize commonplace1 every-day viands into dishes that pique the appetite1 and make of eating a delicate delight4 ,a very material vocation1 it is true1 but as matters stand a highly useful one4 ,eh8 ,now there are smelts1 as plump and inviting a fish as can be found in the market1 and at their best1 too4 ,but how many housekeepers are there who ever think of serving them in any way but just simply fried8 ,frequently1 of course1 they do serve them with a tartar sauce1 but nine times out of ten it would be better for all concerned if the sauce were neglected or forgotten1 or upset1 or anything that would keep it away from the table4 ,baked ,smelts ,the next time you are to have smelts try cooking them in this way3 ,after they are cleaned have them wiped till perfectly dry1 and lay them in a baking dish2 over them pour a wineglass of white wine1 add a sprinkling of salt and pepper1 according to your judgment1 half a dozen whole fresh mushrooms1 and pour over them one-half a pint of ,spanish sauce4 ,sprinkle ever so lightly with bread-crumbs and a little warmed butter1 and bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes4 ,this is the way you would prepare a dozen or fifteen of the fish2 of course for a larger number the amount of seasoning1 etc41 would be increased proportionately4 ,garnish the smelts before serving with thinly sliced lemon1 each slice sprinkled with chopped parsley4 ,broiled ,smelts with ,barnaise ,or try broiling them1 if you like4 ,split the fish1 using only the largest size1 down the backs2 remove the backbones1 wipe well and then rub them with a little oil and season with salt and a bit of white pepper4 ,broil in a double broiler for three minutes on each side1 over a hot fire4 ,have spread on the bottom of the dish in which they are to be served a layer of ,barnaise sauce2 arrange the smelts carefully and daintily on this and sprinkle over them a scanty bit of chopped parsley4 ,you'll find this far and away ahead of the eternal fried smelts and sauce tartare4 ,fried ,smelts with ,parsley ,but if you really feel that you must fry them1 then go about it in this way3 ,first of all1 fry some thinly sliced bacon and in its fat fry to a delicate brown the smelts which you have previously dipped in sweet1 rich cream1 and then dredged with flour to make a thick paste around them4 ,serve garnished with the bacon and with fried parsley4 ,the frying of parsley is as you know1 a somewhat ticklish job2 it must be perfectly dry1 put into a frying basket and then plunged into hot fat for just a few minutes--don't have the fat too hot--this is where you must think and act simultaneously--or the parsley will lose its color1 and then you will have to begin all over again4 ,after it is put on the dish squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over it4 ,my word for it you will find this an acceptable dish1 whether it is prepared for breakfast1 luncheon or dinner4 ,bluefish--,newport ,style ,i didn't mean you to understand that ,i considered smelts to be the only fish in the market at present2 ,i simply wanted to call your attention to them as being as good as any other1 and a good deal better than they1 themselves1 are at any other time of year4 ,bluefish are good now1 too2 they are excellent1 really1 and a bluefish at its best is hard to beat4 ,have you ever tried cooking them in the oven8 ,have them split1 you know1 as for broiling1 then put them into a well-greased baking pan4 ,have ready half a cupful of melted butter with the juice of an onion in it and likewise the juice of a lemon1 with a reasonable amount of salt and of cayenne pepper4 ,before the fish goes into the oven moisten it well with the prepared butter1 and baste with the butter every ten minutes while it is in the oven4 ,when it is of a good even brown it is done4 ,now1 don't serve with the bluefish cooked in this way potatoes of any sort or kind4 ,have cucumbers1 hothouse1 of course1 and have them fried4 ,cut them into thick slices and remove the seeds2 then soak them in equal parts of ice-water and vinegar1 well salted1 for one hour4 ,take them out1 drain and wipe dry and fry in boiling lard until a light brown4 ,they are not only good when served with bluefish cooked in this way1 but they are appetizing bits to accompany pork or lamb chops when you are serving them with a brown sauce4 ,so much for to-day's fish story4 ,as for meat1 anybody can get good meats at any time of the year if they will go to a man who knows how to cut them1 and won't insist on dickering with him about the price4 ,domestic ducks are now in good condition4 ,you might get one of them and try preparing it in some new way to be used1 if it's a success1 on ,thanksgiving ,day4 ,say stuffing it with mushrooms2 use one can of mushrooms to three heaping cupfuls of stale bread-crumbs2 one-half a cupful of melted butter1 with salt and pepper4 ,if the stuffing appears to be too dry moisten it with a bit of milk4 ,split the mushrooms and use all their liquor2 if the duck is too small to require the full amount you may add some of the mushrooms to the giblet gravy to be served with it4 ,and there is plenty of material in market for green salads2 there are celery and lettuce1 the stand-bys2 watercress1 escarolle1 romaine1 and chicory4 ,try this latter some time soon1 using a plain dressing of oil1 vinegar1 salt and pepper for it1 with bits of ,roquefort cheese sprinkled over it4 ,if any among you object to eating this cheese because of its odor1 rest easy1 for you may have at hand a counteracting force in the ,bar-le-,duc currants4 ,they do1 as you probably are aware1 put the finishing touch to almost any sort of dinner1 but when particularly strong cheese has been served they are nothing short of a godsend4 99 99 99 99 99 ,to the ordinary reader the name of ,bontoux conveys nothing2 to the ,parisian of a generation or two ago it was synonymous with all that was delightful in the way of food and drink4 ,the shop over which ,madame ,bontoux presided remains in the ,rue de l'chelle1 but ,madame1 herself1 has been gathered to her forefathers4 ,originally she had been a cordon bleu1 and in the early forties opened a small establishment in the ,rue ,montesquieu1 which establishment1 if ,i mistake not1 is mentioned in ,sue's ,seven ,cardinal ,sins4 ,thence she moved to the ,rue de l'chelle1 where she died4 ,acting on the whim of the moment1 she would sell her wares only to those whom she liked1 and those whom she did not like might offer her a hundred times their value in vain4 ,the ,rue de l'chelle being near the ,comdie ,franaise1 ,rachel1 who was a gourmet of the first water1 frequently went to the shop after rehearsals4 ,one afternoon she went in while one of the shopmen was busy packing a hamper for ,nicholas ,i4 ,among the delicacies there were a dozen magnificent quails on a skewer4 ,i want those1 said ,rachel in the imperious way she adopted now and then4 ,you will have to want1 my little woman1 replied ,madame1 shaking her head in her enormous bonnet1 which seemed a fixture2 no one had ever seen her without it4 ,then ,rachel toned down4 ,i will give you ten francs apiece for them1 she said4 ,not for ten crowns apiece1 came the retort1 and in a voice which left the great actress no doubt as to its meaning4 ,rachel was disappointed1 and rose from her chair to go4 ,just when she had reached the door an idea flashed on her4 ,she turned round and began to recite the famous lines from ,corneille's ,horace4 ,the effect was electrical on the shopman1 who dropped the quails4 ,madame ,bontoux was not so easily impressed4 ,she kept shaking her head just as if to say ,you may save yourself the trouble1 my girl2 but all of a sudden1 when ,rachel brought out the last line-- ,moi seule en tre cause et mourir de plaisir1 she jumped up4 ,give her the dozen quails and a pheasant besides4 ,wonderful to relate1 the enormous bonnet had got pushed on one side4 ,now1 there's a very pretty question to be discussed at your dinner table o' ,sunday night3 ,were those birds bon march for ,rachel1 or did ,madame ,bontoux1 in the language of to-day1 get the best of the bargain8 ,when you go to market in search of game in these days1 and the marketman1 leading you in the direction of the ice-box wherein he keeps his choicest wares1 says1 ,look at 'em2 ain't they beauties8 you will be quite safe in acquiescing by a plain yea or a nod1 but do not go to the extent of ordering a dozen quail1 or woodcock1 or snipe1 or any other game bird1 in fact1 until you have ascertained if the legs are smooth and the quill feathers soft1 which facts prove them to be young birds4 ,furthermore1 be sure that the breasts are hard1 firm1 and well-covered with flesh1 for this will show them to be in good condition4 ,once the birds are under your roof-tree see to it that the cook does not draw the trail from the woodcock or snipe1 for by all gourmets this is reckoned a great delicacy1 and1 by the way1 though1 of course1 it is a matter of common knowledge1 the heads of these birds are the most delicious morsels of all4 ,another point to be borne in mind is that when preparing game for cooking it should never be washed inside1 but merely well wiped with a clean cloth4 ,toast for ,game ,partridges1 grouse and quail are of so fine a flavor that it is little short of a criminal act to serve them in any way but roasted or broiled4 ,if they are to be broiled and served on toast1 then a delicious way of preparing the toast is to have the giblets boiled till they are so tender that they can be pounded to a paste with a little of the water in which they were boiled1 and then1 when mixed with an equal amount of butter1 spread over the toast4 ,this giblet butter may be varied to suit a variety of tastes4 ,a little chopped parsley may be added1 or a squeeze of lemon juice1 or both1 in which case a complementary dash of cayenne must be added4 ,the meat of the partridge is so dry that it is well to serve with it a sauce made of melted butter1 slightly seasoned with onion and a dash of white wine1 or a tartar sauce is really excellent with broiled partridge4 ,sauce for ,partridge ,if these birds--partridges1 grouse1 and quail--are to be roasted1 the garnishing in either case must consist of seasoned watercress4 ,with the partridge is served a bread sauce1 but it's a custom as old as the hills1 and for that very reason ,i have tried many experiments to find a sauce more to my liking4 ,i have found it1 and this is the way ,i prepare it3 half a pint of clear stock1 preferably white1 seasoned with onion juice1 a bunch of parsley1 a bay-leaf1 and four cloves1 strained through a napkin before using4 ,the birds will be much better if an ounce of butter is placed inside of them before cooking1 and if they are occasionally basted with melted butter during the process of roasting4 ,roasted ,grouse ,grouse need no sauce1 especially if before they are put into the oven they are stuffed with one slice of bread each which has been toasted and dipped in ,madeira wine4 ,they may be larded1 or barded1 or basted with melted butter while roasting1 if it is thought likely to improve their flavor4 ,roasted ,quail ,beware of cooks who assure you that they know how to roast quail until you have seen their skill put to the test4 ,it is a failing common to too many cooks to over-roast these dainty little birds4 ,fourteen to sixteen minutes in a hot oven is quite long enough to cook them to the point favored by epicurean palates4 ,they should be served on bread sliced and fried1 and with them1 if desired1 a very little of the clear sauce above recommended for partridges4 ,any of the pieces left from these birds roasted may be daintily served with a mayonnaise dressing1 and you may be willing to assert that the last state of that bird was better than the first4 ,velvet ,soup4 ,sherry1 ,amontillado4 ,baked halibut with ,parmesan cheese4 ,roasted duck with olives4 ,burgundy1 ,romanee4 ,cauliflower with bread crumbs4 ,lettuce and cucumber salad4 ,macaroon charlotte4 ,toasted crackers4 ,cream cheese4 ,coffee4 ,it was with the intention of preparing a dinner according to the above menu that ,i went about my duties all on a market day1 for it seemed to me upon looking it over to be a dainty repast for four people1 and one wherein neither parsimony nor extravagance held the trick hand4 ,and a safe middle course in one's daily regimen tends quite as much to health and prosperity in individual and nation as does the same policy in seemingly weightier matters4 ,velvet ,soup ,the velvet soup is easy of accomplishment1 as one need only to have a quart of some simple white stock on hand1 made from veal or poultry remnants1 into which is stirred the minced red part of four carrots seasoned with pepper and salt and stewed till tender in butter1 two tablespoonfuls of tapioca which has been soaked for four hours in cold water1 and then let the whole boil for nearly an hour before straining and serving4 ,it is not only easily prepared1 but it is easily digested1 as a soup should always be which precedes a rather rich fish course similar to that given above4 ,baked ,halibut with ,parmesan ,about a pound and a half of halibut1 at eighteen cents the pound1 will be required1 and it should be boiled till tender enough to flake lightly2 then1 if you have a rather deep dish1 with a border of mashed potato about the inside1 all will go smoothly4 ,into the bottom of the dish put a layer of white sauce made of half a pint of boiling milk1 three ounces of butter and a little salt1 thickened with flour2 sprinkle in flakes of the fish1 then a layer of the sauce1 adding a little milk if it promises to be too dry1 and so on till the dish is full1 having a layer of sauce on top4 ,then scatter grated ,parmesan over all1 and brown to a tempting shade4 ,roasted ,duck with ,olives ,with ducklings tender and toothsome1 as they should be in this month1 it is plainly seen that the next course is capable of being a pice de rsistance at a far more stately affair even than the one which we are considering4 ,but if they are roasted in the ordinary way known to every housekeeper in the land1 stuffed with bread crumbs1 highly seasoned1 and have a giblet sauce1 quite an extraordinary flavor will be given them if1 just before serving1 half a pint of pitted and quartered olives are added to the sauce4 ,it's only a trifling addition to the old way1 you see1 but the improvement is so great you will wonder that every one doesn't know of the gastronomical harmony existing between duck and olives4 ,now1 the flavor of the ducks is so rich and altogether satisfying that it takes only the simplest and mildest-flavored vegetable to complement this course4 ,and nothing will answer the purpose better than cauliflower4 ,if they are cut into pieces of uniform size1 they cook in a much more satisfactory manner1 and they should boil as gently as possible2 do not add the salt to the water till they are nearly tender4 ,when taking them up1 drain well1 and over all pour melted butter thickened with browned bread-crumbs1 and send to table4 ,i fancy you will find them more to your liking served in this way than in the old rutty way of so many cooks1 namely1 with a white sauce1 which varies in different households from a fair quality of flour paste to a very rich and fairly cloying concoction of cream and melted butter4 ,there is nothing like a simple salad to prepare one's palate for the sweets which come at the last1 and with hothouse cucumbers now in evidence and lettuce always with us1 the making of a salad is a delight in more ways than one4 ,it is not so many years ago that we had to pay from thirty-five to fifty cents each for cucumbers at this season of the year1 but the large number of cucumber hothouses near every city is fast bringing this desirable vegetable to a state where it will be known as an all-the-year-round commodity4 ,macaroon ,charlotte ,there are a good many people1 and the number is increasing1 who declare that to them a dinner is finished by a bit of cheese after the salad1 and finished quite to their satisfaction1 too4 ,but for those whose dinner is incomplete without a bit of sweetness1 ,i would recommend a macaroon charlotte made by lining a dish with broken macaroons and then filling the dish with whipped cream which has been sweetened and flavored to taste2 adding to it at last half a pound of crystallized cherries4 ,as to the wines1 of course1 it's a matter of purse and principle whether or not they shall be served4 ,i have suggested the kinds appropriate to the courses1 for the reason that ,i have heard many a hostess on hospitable thoughts intent wonder what wine goes with what4 99 99 99 99 99 ,to be sure1 ,i went a-marketing t'other day1 and ,i was able to collect a stock of valuable information which ,i came home prepared to dish up for the delectation of any who chose to read and profit by it4 ,but by some chance1 or mischance1 it occurred to me that ,all-,hallows ,eve is near at hand1 and that when it comes you girls will be up to all sorts of pranks4 ,now1 years and years ago ,i was a girl myself1 and ,i can dimly recall that the playing of pranks on the fairies' anniversary night induced a desire for liquid refreshment1 either for the purpose of chirking up one's spirits when the omens proved unfavorable or for helping out the general merry-making when the signs foretold bliss4 ,claret ,tipple ,and a drink that seemed to me at that time apropos of either event we used to make by slicing half a dozen juicy apples and three lemons as a starting point4 ,then we would lay them alternately in a large bowl1 sprinkling each layer plentifully with sugar1 and over all would pour a quart of claret4 ,then we would let it stand for fully six hours1 pour it through a muslin bag1 and it was ready for use4 ,hot ,spiced ,claret ,if you desire a hot drink1 and it is likely that you will1 if the tricks you have on hand call you out of doors at midnight1 you might prepare one in this way3 ,have half-a-dozen lumps of sugar1 the juice of half a lemon1 four whole allspice1 two whole cloves and half a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon in a dish2 over it pour half a pint of claret and let it boil for just two minutes1 stirring it all the time4 ,strain it into hot glasses and grate just a little nutmeg on top as you serve it4 ,at the first sip the good qualities of this libation will present themselves to you4 ,hot ,claret ,egg-nog ,and for an encore you might vary it a little bit in this way3 ,stir together two tablespoonfuls of sugar1 the juice of half a lemon1 half a teaspoonful of mixed spices and half a pint of claret4 ,boil this for two minutes and then pour it over the yolks of two eggs that have been beaten well with a teaspoonful of sugar4 ,stir all the while that you are pouring the wine slowly over the eggs4 ,grate a little nutmeg over the top after you have poured the mixture into hot glasses4 ,now mind1 don't get confused and pour the eggs into the wine1 for that would spoil everything2 pour the wine over the eggs4 ,and be thankful that you have lived long enough to concoct such a satisfying drink as this always proves itself to be4 ,hot ,sherry ,egg-nog ,but if you feel that you must find a use for the whites of the eggs dissolve a tablespoonful of powdered sugar in half a pint of hot water1 add to it half a pint of sherry wine and let this come to a boil4 ,meanwhile have the whites of the eggs beaten to a froth and pour the hot mixture over them1 stirring rapidly4 ,pour into hot glasses1 grating a bit of nutmeg over the top of each4 ,see to it that the vessel in which you boil the wine is thoroughly clean4 ,you don't want even the faintest trace of a taste of anything besides the ingredients herein prescribed4 ,orange ,punch ,an orange punch isn't just the innocent tipple that its name would seem to indicate4 ,but that doesn't hinder its being a treat for the palate4 ,infuse the peel of three and the juice of six oranges with three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar in two quarts of boiling water for half an hour4 ,strain and add to the juice a half pint of brandy and a liqueur glass of maraschino4 ,and it is quite likely that you will think it needs a little more sugar2 if so1 add it4 ,now it may be that you will like this hot1 or it may be that you will like it cold2 in the latter case cool it on the ice for several hours before serving or ice it when serving4 ,this is also an excellent recipe for lemon punch--substituting lemons for the oranges4 ,cider ,punch ,if you really long for drinks which seem suitable for days the saddest of the year1 why then see to it that your cider jug is filled with sweet cider as a prerequisite1 and go ahead4 ,call your first effort a cider punch4 ,peel a lemon and pour half a pint of sherry on the peeling2 to the juice of the lemon add a cupful of sugar1 a little grated nutmeg and a quart of cider4 ,mix this together thoroughly and then add to it the rind of the lemon and the sherry4 ,let it get perfectly cold on the ice1 or if you are short of time ice it when serving4 ,now if you wish to make this punch a bit more insidious you can easily do so by adding to it a wineglass of brandy4 ,it will be quite as palatable also1 ,i think you will find4 ,cider ,egg-nog ,and then cider egg-nog is well worth the making and the drinking4 ,use a large glass2 beat up in it an egg and a scant teaspoonful of sugar2 put in half a dozen small lumps of ice1 fill the glass with cider and grate a little nutmeg on top4 ,this is not only a very pleasant drink1 but it is an extremely wholesome one4 ,it will act as a pick-me-up many times when one is tired or not feeling quite up to the mark4 ,quince ,liqueur ,another delicious potation that will be found of use at all sorts of occasions is quince liqueur4 ,grate a sufficient number of quinces to make a quart of juice after it is squeezed through a jelly bag4 ,with this juice mix a pound of sugar1 six ounces of bitter almonds1 bruised1 a dozen whole cloves and a gill of brandy4 ,mix these all well together and set away in a demijohn for ten days at least4 ,then strain it through the jelly bag till it is perfectly clear1 and bottle for use4 ,besides drinking this as a liqueur1 you will find that you can vary and improve a number of your recipes for punch by adding just a suspicion of it to them4 ,various ,cups ,at all times cups are alluring decoctions1 don't you think8 ,and there are many varieties of them4 ,but they all begin in the same way4 ,a cordial glass each of maraschino1 benedictine and brandy put into a quart jug1 and then if you fill the jug with champagne you have champagne cup1 with ,rhine wine you have ,rhine wine cup1 and with cider you have cider cup4 ,if you use claret you add a few drops of lemon juice and double the quantity of maraschino4 ,rhine ,wine ,seltzer ,but it may be that you prefer to take your ,rhine wine with seltzer2 if so1 just half fill the glass with the wine and pour enough seltzer to fill it4 ,both the wine and the seltzer should be kept on the ice for some little time before using4 ,ginger ,lemonade ,if after all this array of non-temperance drinks you feel that you should turn your attention to something milder1 and yet can't quite make up your mind to clear cold water1 why not try a ginger lemonade8 ,have a teaspoonful of powdered sugar in a tumbler1 add to it the juice of half a lemon and fill the tumbler with ginger ale that has been well iced4 ,you will find this a pleasant change from the ordinary lemonade1 and for many persons it serves to make ginger ale a deal more palatable4 ,soda ,cocktail ,now1 if you should feel that you would like to serve a drink that is as innocent and harmless as so much milk1 but that when judged by its name alone seems to be intended1 oh1 my6 for very dissipated persons1 indeed6 let me suggest to you a soda cocktail4 ,fill a glass with lemon soda1 put into it a dash of raspberry syrup and on top of it a thin slice of orange4 ,and1 your very good health4 ,,november ,from our own selves our joys must flow1 ,and that dear hut our home4 ,,once upon a time1 a somebody who was famous for his or her wit or wisdom1 or for both qualities1 remarked that oftentimes the easiest and best way to get over a difficulty was to go round it4 ,to my great regret1 ,i can't give you the name of the author of the very pithy saying1 neither can ,i tell you just what conditions called it forth1 but it's safe to say that its context was a suggestion or opinion offered for the settling of some great big question of state4 ,but1 what is more to the point1 ,i can be of help in showing you1 ,i hope1 how to make a practical application of the epigram to every-day affairs4 ,because1 just as sure as we are living1 there is always a way to go round if one can't get over the very toughest hands that one gets in life's shuffle4 ,now1 there's the servant-girl question in its ,sunday-night aspect4 ,it exists2 it can't be wiped out2 and it is impossible to ignore it4 ,she1 or they1 as the case may be1 will have the evening out1 come what may1 and guests are pretty sure to come o' ,sunday nights4 ,of course you can't send them home supperless1 and neither can you send your family to bed in a semi-famished condition4 ,no2 you must go round the situation4 ,and it's not so hard4 ,indeed1 my last trip to market1 which included a call at the grocer's1 was for the express purpose of picking up points that would make the circuit easy for you4 ,i'm not going to say a word1 here1 about the chafing-dish4 ,and ,i will tell you why4 ,it is the custom in a large number of families for the man of the house to preside at the chafing-dish ,sunday nights1 and while my stock of book-learning is very diminutive1 ,i have learned that under no circumstances is it wise to offer suggestions to a man who thinks he can cook4 ,frequently it is easy to have some little dish left ready by the cook which needs only to be heated before it is served1 but in nine households out of ten cold viands are the staple commodity4 ,and the singular sameness is surprising and saddening4 ,if one is in the habit of dropping in to pot luck at the houses of one's intimes1 one soon learns to reckon with a fair degree of certainty upon what will be likely to be set before one4 ,now1 there are sandwiches4 ,once let a housekeeper acquire a reputation for a particular brand of that edible1 and it's like getting her to change her religion to induce her to try making any other sort4 ,but it requires only a very little time1 with a fair amount of common sense1 to have a sandwich repertoire that will enable one to get through a fairly long season without repetitions4 ,caviare ,sandwiches ,the next time you are to have caviare sandwiches1 try using brown-bread1 sliced as thinly as possible1 spread with unsalted butter1 and then with a layer of caviare and a sprinkling of lemon juice4 ,and you will find them as good as they are uncommon4 ,oyster ,sandwiches2 ,fish and ,game ,sandwiches ,then there are oyster sandwiches4 ,cook the oysters a bit1 or till they are firm1 then when they are cool stir them into good stiff mayonnaise1 with a seasoning of red pepper and just a few capers4 ,spread day-old bread with this mixture and finish off1 sandwich fashion4 ,you can use cold fish of any sort in this way2 having the bits very small1 and adding chopped gherkins to the mayonnaise4 ,and1 better yet1 use in this way any bits of cold game1 or poultry1 using with them chopped olives and chopped truffles4 ,in either case1 you may if you like lay a lettuce leaf on the bread and put the mixture on that4 ,but for myself ,i have always disliked the addition of lettuce to sandwiches4 ,savory ,butters ,it is very easy to have savory butters1 beurres composs1 so familiar to the ,french cuisine1 and so give an infinite variety of taste to any kind of sandwiches4 ,take1 for instance1 unsalted butter and season it well with anchovy essence1 some very finely chopped parsley1 a bit of paprika1 and spread thin slices of bread with it and then use a layer of any kind of cold meat4 ,or you can use shrimp essence1 or in fact any essence or sauce that you think would prove to be a favorite4 ,crust ,sandwiches ,one of the most palatable ways1 it seems to me1 in which to make sandwiches is to take paste1 not puff paste that is too rich1 and roll it out as thinly as possible2 cut it into rounds of uniform size spread around with a certain mixture1 then cover it with another round of the paste1 pinch the edges together and bake them till they are brown4 ,as to the mixtures1 they may be made of an endless number of savory viands4 ,say bloater paste softened so that it will spread easily with a little melted butter4 ,and then there are all sorts of potted meats and devilled things that seem almost as if they were made expressly to be used in this way4 ,believe me1 you will find these sandwiches ever so dainty if you get them small enough and thin enough1 and1 by the way1 they make a capital appointment for the five-o'clock tea-table4 ,sweet ,sandwiches ,now for the sweet sandwiches4 ,they may be made with either white bread1 cake1 or wafers--preferably the last4 ,have some icing made by your favorite rule and sprinkle into it chopped nuts of any kind and spread the wafers with it4 ,or1 use chopped crystallized fruits and cherries preserved in maraschino2 and then try1 the next time you make this sort of sweets1 some brandied fruits with the icing4 ,you might make a chocolate icing and add to that some chopped pistachios or almonds or preserved ginger4 ,but surely you've enough now in the way of a ground plan for the making of any number of dainty and appetizing bouches4 ,savory ,jelly ,just a word about jellied things4 ,you can have a pint of stock1 white if possible1 season it with an onion1 a bay-leaf1 a bit of thyme1 a clove1 and pepper and salt4 ,then put in a good half-ounce of dissolved gelatine2 and turn about one quarter of it1 after straining1 into a mould and set on ice to cool4 ,have the rest of the jelly in a liquid state1 but perfectly cold4 ,when that in the mould is set1 have any sort of cold meat1 chicken1 turkey1 ham or tongue cut into strips free of skin and bone1 and pack it into the mould with alternate layers of the jelly1 finishing with the latter4 ,now see how successful you can be in making such a dish a joy to the eye4 ,use sliced olives1 gherkins1 capers1 truffles1 fanciful shapes of beet or anything that your artistic eye will permit1 and sprinkle these through the dish as you go along4 ,run a thin knife blade in between the jelly and mould and then plunge the mould into boiling water and the jelly will unmould easily4 ,cheese ,salad ,then there are salads4 ,to make one of cheese rub the yolk of a hard-boiled egg in a basin with a tablespoonful of salad oil2 add one teaspoonful of salt1 a bit of cayenne and a little made mustard2 when all is well mixed stir in about half a pound of grated ,parmesan cheese1 the juice of an onion1 and a tablespoon of vinegar4 ,serve on lettuce leaves4 ,you will find that this will go particularly well with sandwiches of bloater paste4 ,but for a salad to be served with a jellied meat1 make one of nuts1 one kind or several1 broken into bits1 mixed with an equal quantity of sliced olives and spread with only a very little mayonnaise4 ,i did want to tell you of ways to make some very appetizing beverages1 for the sort of occasions we are discussing1 but they will have to wait4 ,and perhaps it's just as well2 already my conscience is troubling me for fear that you are going to be so taken up with the goodies ,i have told you of that you will have no inclination to think on better things when it comes ,sunday4 ,but it can't be helped now4 99 99 99 99 99 ,last spring a certain ,boston man with his family moved into the country4 ,not so far out1 however1 but that he could come to town daily to attend to business1 and yet far enough from the gilded dome to be able to buy sufficient land for a small farm without paying all creation for it4 ,the next move was the stocking of the farm4 ,so a ,jersey cow was bought to keep the family supplied with cream1 a flock of prize hens was set at work in a bran new henhouse that there might be fresh eggs on hand1 and last but not least1 a pair of tiny young pigs were secured to provide the household with sweet1 home-made pork when winter should set in4 ,and having secured the stock1 the owner proceeded at once to make pets1 collectively and individually1 of the whole equipment4 ,actually the cow would manage to look half-way intelligent when he stroked her neck and told her she was the sort that deserved to live in clover the year round2 the hens really did add a note to their regular cackle when the master was about1 to show him that they knew who gave them heaping measures of grain1 and the pigs1 which he called ,tim and ,jim1 got in no time to know their names when they were spoken by his voice4 ,well1 cold weather came on and with it those crisp1 frosty mornings when a toothsomely seasoned sausage with a potato pure makes an ideal breakfast4 ,so ,tim and ,jim went the way of all pork1 and in due course of time their owner had the satisfaction of seeing on his own breakfast table pork of his own raising4 ,and what do you think happened then8 ,susan1 said he to his wife1 ,i can't do it2 if you will believe me1 ,i can't eat that pork4 ,give it away--give it all away4 ,never have any more put on this table4 ,why1 dash it all1 ,susan1 ,i may be a ninny1 but ,i was actually fond of ,tim and ,jim1 and don't see what ,i was thinking of when ,i had them killed4 ,samuel1 said the wife1 a woman who knew how and when to point a moral1 you needn't call yourself a ninny2 be thankful for the feeling you have1 because it can give you a glimpse1 though from afar off1 of the mighty power that will make of us a nation of vegetarians1 if we ever do become such4 ,and ,i1 when ,i heard of this little episode1 fell to wondering if it would be such terribly hard lines after all to be put on a strictly vegetarian diet4 ,at any rate1 ,i managed to turn out one dinner1 sans fish1 sans flesh1 sans fowl1 that didn't appear in the least like a substitute for something better4 ,you shall have the menu3 ,consomm with asparagus points4 ,mushroom cannelons4 ,poached eggs with tomato4 ,macaroni with cheese4 ,string beans with butter4 ,walnut salad4 ,lemon souffl4 ,coffee4 ,consomm with ,asparagus ,as ,i was determined to be thoroughly conscientious in the preparation of this dinner1 using stock for the soup was quite out of the question1 so ,i prepared it in this way3 ,a couple of onions1 a carrot and a bunch of herbs fried in plenty of butter till of a good brown4 ,add to them a bunch of celery chopped1 with salt and pepper for seasoning1 and a tiny bit of sugar4 ,cover with water and boil till the vegetables are quite tender4 ,strain and add to the liquid a dash of sherry1 a few drops of lemon juice and some asparagus points that have been cooked by themselves till tender4 ,of course1 the asparagus you will buy in tins or glass just now1 but for use in this way it is quite as good as though freshly cut4 ,you will be surprised1 ,i fancy1 when you see how savory a soup you have turned out4 ,cannelons of ,mushrooms ,it isn't often that we feel justified in buying fresh mushrooms at this time of year1 but at a dinner of this sort where one is not obliged to pay for a steak or for game1 one can afford to be a little bit reckless in the matter of vegetables1 especially when they are to be put to such a delicious use as the making of cannelons4 ,coarsely mince a pound or so of well-wiped mushrooms and toss them with a little minced parsley in butter till nicely browned2 then season with white pepper and salt1 adding a little more butter to moisten the mushrooms till they are quite cooked4 ,then stir in--off the fire--the yolks of three eggs1 a squeeze of lemon juice1 and set the whole aside to cool4 ,roll out some puff or very short paste thin1 cut it out in oblongs1 put a good spoonful of the mushroom mixture on each oblong1 roll these up like sausages1 moistening the edges to make them adhere1 brush them over with egg and fry in plenty of oil or in butter4 ,for myself1 ,i prefer the oil1 and the using of oil for frying purposes isn't the extravagant act that it seems at the first flush to be1 because it wastes very little and can be used repeatedly for different purposes4 ,the cannelons are to be served with the poached eggs and tomato4 ,and the directions for preparing the latter dish are to be found elsewhere in this book4 ,macaroni with ,cheese ,the macaroni with cheese you know all about1 ,i dare say4 ,is this your way of doing it8 ,break the macaroni into two-inch lengths and drop into boiling salted water4 ,when it is quite tender pour cold water over it1 drain and stir about in plenty of melted butter till each piece is well covered1 then put into a baking-dish1 strew grated ,parmesan cheese over it and let brown in a hot oven4 ,just a little bit of cayenne added to the cheese improves the flavor wonderfully1 to my thinking4 ,string ,beans with ,butter ,you can find green string beans at the provisioner's yet1 or you can get them tinned1 as you choose4 ,i shall not presume to advise you as to that1 but for the cooking of them ,i will say a word or two4 ,boil them till perfectly tender1 then drain well and place them in a pan with a tablespoonful or more of fine herbs 7minced chives or minced shallot and parsley71 with pepper1 salt and lemon juice and two ounces of butter2 toss them over the fire till the butter is melted and serve4 ,perhaps this isn't the place to go into a discussion of the circumstances that have landed us as a nation at a point where we think we must have turkey on ,thanksgiving ,day1 or be accused of showing a disrespect for the ,declaration of ,independence4 ,but some time the matter will be attacked by somebody who will spend a decade or so in the ,astor ,library or the ,boston ,athenum to discover who said turkey first and where they said it4 ,evidently it was said in one of those voices that are heard around the world and its echoes have not begun to diminish1 so far as my ear can detect1 even yet4 ,so turkey it is1 ,i suppose4 ,grape ,fruit with ,rum ,but this little talk shall be of the addenda of the dinner4 ,know what addenda means1 don't you8 ,well1 call them fixin's1 then4 ,nowadays grape fruit is a hard and fast fixin' of a ,thanksgiving ,day dinner4 ,before the soup it comes on cut in halves with the seeds removed and also all of the white pith in the centre of each half with a pair of sharp scissors4 ,then by the taste of them it is evident that about an hour before they were put on the table they had a lump of sugar and a teaspoonful of rum put into each half1 after which little refection they reposed on the ice till wanted4 ,don't go on the principle that if a little rum is good more must be better and try to float the fruit in--that would have been hailed as a rank outrage even by ,captain ,shaddock himself--but just be content to see how potent a little bit of rum can be in good company4 ,grape ,fruit ,sorbet2 ,fruit ,salad ,if you want a grape fruit sorbet1 thinking it best to begin your dinner with oysters1 you may pick out the pulp with a fork in sizable bits1 free from seeds and pith1 cover these bits with sherry and with a sprinkling of sugar and freeze4 ,you know the rest--how to serve it and the like4 ,but you may be firm in the conviction that when grape fruit comes to your table it doesn't make its appearance till dessert4 ,if so1 you will allow me to put in just a word1 won't you8 ,the word is to advise you to get the pulp out as recommended for the sorbet1 mix with it an equal quantity of ,malaga grapes cut in halves with seeds removed1 covered with sugar and sherry and iced for three or four hours before serving4 ,i don't know whether it is true or not but it seems to me more than likely that the mushroom hunters for science' sake are doing us folks who like good things to eat a kind turn by getting out so many books on the subject of good1 bad1 and indifferent sorts4 ,at any rate1 they are getting to be more plentiful every year and consequently should be lower in price4 ,thanksgiving ,day seems to be a pretty appropriate time for having them4 ,you must spread yourself on that day1 even if you live on bread and cheese for the rest of the month4 ,have them then and by themselves after the table is cleared of the bird and its fixin's1 and have them in croquettes4 99 99 99 99 99 ,of course1 you knew just what to have for dinner on ,thanksgiving ,day1 and if perchance you didn't there were plenty at hand to tell you how the menu should be composed4 ,so just let me advise you how to prepare two or three dishes1 to be called ,thanksgiving en rchauffe1 if it will make things seem any more prosperous to you4 ,broiled ,turkey ,legs ,yes1 ,i shall begin with turkey1 because in nine families out of ten1 or perhaps ninety-and-nine out of a hundred would be a closer estimate1 that bird formed the pice de rsistance4 ,you know that if there's plenty to go round at the first serving of a turkey the legs are generally left untouched2 the carver doesn't feel like giving them to any one1 and when it comes to waiting on himself he thinks he is entitled to a choicer bit4 ,and so he is4 ,but you can use those legs all in good time4 ,just gash them three or four times with a very sharp knife1 sprinkle them over with salt1 pepper and a few drops of lemon juice and broil them over a hot fire till browned well2 put them on a hot dish1 pour a little melted butter over them and send to table4 ,they will go uncommonly well1 say for a ,sunday morning breakfast to help out with a bacon omelet4 ,broiled ,devilled ,turkey ,legs2 ,potato ,omelet ,but if they are to do duty at luncheon1 devil them before broiling4 ,season them with salt and pepper and then rub lightly with mustard which has been mixed with oil4 ,turn the legs often while they are broiling1 basting them once in a while with a little melted butter4 ,when they are dished pour a little rich brown gravy over them4 ,and with them cooked in this way serve a potato omelet4 ,pardon the digression1 and ,i will tell you how this is made4 ,it may not prove a digression1 however1 as it is quite possible that you had a sufficient quantity of mashed potato left from the ,thanksgiving ,day dinner to make it4 ,but if you didn't1 boil four large potatoes and when soft mash them2 beat four eggs with a cup of milk1 mix it with the potatoes and season with salt and white pepper4 ,cut four or five ounces of bacon into tiny squares1 fry till crisp and brown1 then mix in the potatoes and stir over the fire till they are heated through4 ,let brown well1 fold the omelet over and serve4 ,minced ,turkey with ,mushrooms ,if there is a considerable quantity of the white meat of the turkey left over cut it up into dice-shaped bits and add to it half its quantity of canned mushrooms cut in two2 moisten well with bchamel sauce1 season with pepper and salt and let heat for ten minutes1 but don't stir it4 ,dish it on triangular pieces of toasted white bread4 ,or1 if you like1 you may use in place of the bchamel sauce1 cream and butter2 but1 whatever amount of cream is used1 let it heat till it reduces to one-half4 ,minced ,turkey ,a more savory hash may be made in this way3 ,use any or all bits of the turkey and chop them rather finely2 add a little chopped parsley1 a few drops of lemon juice1 the juice of an onion or two1 and white stock enough to moisten it sufficiently4 ,let it simmer for half an hour very slowly and then add a little white wine just before taking up4 ,if you are in the habit of using wine in cooking you will know all about how much it will require to give just the right flavor2 but if you are pledged to abstain from such practices you won't want to know and you won't need to know how much should be used1 so ,i'll not go into particulars4 ,goose ,pie ,but perhaps for good and sufficient reasons you didn't have turkey at all but had roasted goose1 and if that is so please do use up the tidbits by making a goose pie4 ,cut all the meat from the bones and put the bones with the skin into a saucepan with a little water to boil slowly for two hours4 ,let it cool1 and skim off all the fat2 into the bottom of a deep dish put a scanty layer of boiled and mashed onions2 sprinkle well with salt and pepper1 put in a layer of the goose meat1 then a layer of the onions1 and so on till the dish is filled4 ,pour in the water in which the bones were boiled1 cover with a good crust and bake in a moderate oven till the crust is done4 ,stewed ,goose ,let me tell you also that stewed goose is by no means a slow sort of dish4 ,in fact1 it is reckoned by a good many as being among the joys of earth4 ,take two onions1 peel and chop1 and put them in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter and fry until soft2 dredge them with flour and stir in half a pint or so of the water in which the bones of the goose have been boiled4 ,cut up into dice-shaped pieces any or all of the cold cooked goose and put it into the saucepan with a wineglass of white wine and a tablespoonful of vinegar1 and season to taste with salt and pepper4 ,cover closely and stew for half an hour slowly4 ,turn out and serve very hot4 ,baked ,squash ,it is more than probable that1 whatever else you had for dinner1 you saw fit to have in addition squash boiled and mashed4 ,and it is safe to say that some of it was left4 ,so take this remnant and heat it well with plenty of butter over the fire and then put it into a baking dish4 ,scatter ,parmesan cheese over the top and brown it very quickly in a hot oven4 ,serve this with your stewed goose1 and the trick is yours4 ,broiled ,duck ,fillets with ,orange ,sauce ,and suppose you had ducks for your dinner1 could you find a better way than this to serve up what was left of them8 ,cut as good-sized pieces as you can and dip them in a little melted butter2 season with pepper and salt1 and broil for a minute or so over a hot fire4 ,arrange the pieces on a hot dish and pour over them a sauce made in this way3 ,fry two or three slices of fat bacon and an onion together for five minutes2 add the juice of an orange and a wineglass of port or sherry wine with what salt and pepper is needed4 ,strain it before using4 ,you will find this so delectable1 ,i dare say1 that you will be ready to declare that the last days of those ducks were better than the first4 ,duck ,salad ,did you ever make a duck salad in this way8 ,rub the bottom of the salad bowl with a peeled onion1 and squeeze in a few drops of lemon juice4 ,put the cold bits of duck in the bowl with what you consider a suitable amount of chopped whites of boiled eggs2 over this sprinkle a few quartered olives and a handful or so of capers1 and then put in a layer of chopped watercresses4 ,cover this with a layer of mayonnaise and serve4 ,now if you want to use a little turkey meat1 or a little goose meat1 or a little of each1 to eke out what you have of cold duck1 go right ahead and do so4 ,the salad will be just as good as when duck alone is used and perhaps some will think it even better4 ,fish ,salad ,didn't you have a boiled or even a broiled fish of some kind for your dinner1 either halibut1 striped bass1 or fresh cod8 ,if you did1 just take what was left of it and flake it up daintily2 put a layer of it in a salad bowl that has been rubbed with an onion1 sprinkle the fish with salt and lemon juice1 put in a layer of shredded lettuce1 dressing this also with lemon juice and salt1 another layer of the fish and lastly one of lettuce4 ,cover it all with a layer of tartar sauce1 and there you have a salad worth the eating4 ',twouldn't tempt a dying anchorite1 perhaps1 but it's quite good enough for human nature's daily food4 ,,december ,and we meet1 with champagne and chicken1 at last4 ,,any one can go to market if she has the wherewithal and secure any kind of game that happens to be on the list and be happy in the purchase and eating of it1 ,i dare say4 ,but the happiest dames in these times are those who have a husband or sweetheart in the field shooting straight to the mark with all thoughts for the recipient of his day's work4 ,so it comes to pass that by express to many a door there come on these fine crisp mornings boxes or hampers of game birds4 ,the next thing1 of course1 is to get one's neighbors in to partake of them in order that they may be set by the ears with envy4 ,i am with you4 ,i will help you to make this envy business complete while you are about it4 ,there shall be a dinner given--a dinner which by a wise and palatable arrangement of courses shall lead up to the game4 ,now1 you know all about scallops1 of course--and by all you mean fried and served with tartar sauce4 ,bah6 to you and your stereotyped dishes4 ,novelty ,i beg of you1 and then put in your way the means to do as ,i beg4 ,do you appreciate it1 ,i wonder8 ,i doubt it4 ,scallops in ,shells ,well1 then1 scallops after the bouillon4 ,cook them in a little white wine till you know they are done4 ,then drain1 cut them in halves or in quarters and add to them half their quantity of minced onion fried till tender1 but not brown4 ,moisten with a little white sauce1 season with cayenne and salt1 heap in scallop shells1 cover with bread-crumbs moistened with melted butter and brown in the hottest oven you can arrange4 ,salmi of ,cold ,partridge ,whereas it is agreed that the pleasure of a repast must be continuous--not jerky--let us plan for the next dish at your luncheon salmis of partridge1 cold4 ,the birds must be roasted and then cooled4 ,cut them into neat pieces1 removing all the skin4 ,boil the skin and all the odd bits in a little red wine and water4 ,season with salt and a bay-leaf and thicken after it has boiled five minutes with a little flour braided with butter4 ,take it off1 lift out all the pieces of meat and add enough aspic jelly to stiffen it4 ,set on ice and beat till stiff1 then dip into it the neatly trimmed pieces of partridge4 ,dress them on a dish1 using chop frills for the legs and set on ice till the time comes for serving4 ,at this sort of a luncheon you know you must have two dishes of game and to let the first one be cold is doing the matter up as not one neighbor in ten of yours would think of doing4 ,chicken ,liver ,patties ,now for the next link in this gastronomical harmony4 ,let it be chicken liver patties4 ,you know how to make the puff paste and how to line the pans with it4 ,then you cook the desired number of chicken livers till tender1 drain off the water1 cover them with a rich ,spanish sauce in which are as many sliced truffles as your means will allow4 ,of course this must be hot when the patty pans are filled with it and then the patties must be hot when they go to table4 ,roasted ,teal ,now make way for the pice de rsistance4 ,what shall it be8 ,he sent you blue-winged teal duck1 you say8 ,couldn't be better4 ,his intentions towards you are of the best1 you may depend4 ,his blue-winged teal go where his heart is every time1 let me tell you4 ,into each bird you will put a slice or two of toasted bread which has been soaked in any red wine4 ,rub the inside of the bird well with salt4 ,roast in a piping hot oven for twenty minutes1 basting five times with melted butter4 ,garnish with sliced lemon when serving4 ,tomatoes ,stuffed with ,mayonnaise and ,celery ,you will want tomato with celery and mayonnaise for this course1 you know4 ,have large1 firm1 fine tomatoes peeled carefully4 ,then cut a round out of the top of each and scoop out all the seeds4 ,keep the round whole1 by the way4 ,fill each tomato with celery chopped and mixed with mayonnaise4 ,clap on the top in which you have cut a tiny hole in the centre and in this hole stick a little sprig of tender green celery4 ,macaroon ,custards ,only macaroon custards are good enough to be served at this point and these you make by covering half a pound of macaroons with hot cream first4 ,when cool1 beat well4 ,then add the yolks and whites beaten separately of six eggs and a tablespoonful of brandy4 ,butter some moulds1 fill with the mixture and bake for ten minutes4 ,unmould on lace paper before serving4 ,yes1 of course1 have them cold4 ,who wants hot custard8 ,for a drink8 ,cider cup4 ,not here1 but elsewhere1 a page or two away1 will you find directions for making this decoction4 99 99 99 99 99 ,a few pages back ,i related an account of some of the happenings of my trip to market in search of game birds of the smaller kinds4 ,appended to this recital were given in a more or less appetizing fashion a few directions for preparing the birds which it seemed to me must find favor with epicures and laymen alike2 and1 assuming that approval was accorded these recipes1 of which some were begged1 others borrowed and more stolen1 ,i am giving herewith hints for use in the preparation of the larger birds to be had now1 with honors easy as to quantity and quality4 ,as to price1 you may pay what you will1 almost1 from seventy-five cents up to three and four and even five dollars per pair4 ,to begin with1 there are the toothsome canvas-backs that lead in price and palate-tickling properties4 ,now1 ,i know quite as well as you that not every one who pleases may dine from canvas-back when fancy dictates2 in fact1 with nine out of ten householders something very like a dispute takes place between the purse and the palate in every instance where canvas-back forms the pice de rsistance at dinner4 ,but the next time the palate wins in the debate go straightway to market and secure its indulgence from a marketman who will give you his oath that the canvas-backs he has on sale have fed on the banks where the wild celery grows1 i4 e41 along the ,gunpowder ,river1 a tributary of the ,chesapeake ,bay1 and you may feel sure that you have the best the market affords4 ,broiled ,canvas-back ,as to the cooking4 ,wasn't it that wholly delightful old ,colonel ,carter who laid it down as a law that to smother a canvas-back in jelly of any sort or description was little short of criminal8 ,and that he was right there are scores of persons devoted to the art of good living ready to attest4 ,no2 if you are to have the bird broiled1 use a double-broiler1 leave over the fire ten minutes1 eight will be better1 and serve with only a little melted butter having in it a soupon of lemon juice4 ,there is nothing there1 you see1 to encroach upon the delicate flavor of the duck4 ,about two minutes before removing from the fire sprinkle a little salt over the bird4 ,roasted ,canvas-back1 ,port ,wine ,sauce ,but if a roast of game seems to you better calculated to round out your dinner scheme1 then roast them1 but don't have them too well done 7'tis said the blood should follow the knife72 and for a sauce have some port wine heated in a bain-marie with a few drops of orange juice added thereto4 ,h'm1 talk about being able to tempt a dying anchorite6 ,sydney ,smith may have thought it a great height attained to concoct a salad calculated to make that abstemious old recluse dip his fingers in the salad bowl1 but for me1 ,i'd a thousand times rather prepare a dish fit to tickle the palate of a gourmet who is somewhat aweary of good things2 and ,i fancy that canvas-back so roasted and served is quite capable of lending a fillip to the existence of those most experienced in the joys to be found in eating4 ,it's very sad1 but it's also very true1 that there are instances where a redhead duck is foisted upon an unknowing and consequently unsuspecting purchaser in place of a canvas-back4 ,this is easily done1 because of the strong resemblance between them as to plumage and habits1 for the two kinds fly and feed in the same flock4 ,but while the flavor of the redhead is of a desirable quality1 it in no way approaches that of the canvas-back4 ,in the cooking of the redhead duck1 the rules given for preparing canvas-backs may be followed1 with the exceptions that in the melted butter used for the broiled bird a little minced parsley will be an improvement1 and in the port wine sauce for the roasted duck currant jelly may be melted and impart a flavor that will be generally liked4 ,roasted ,mallard ,duck with ,fried ,celery ,a favorite duck with many good diners is the mallard1 and when they are in good condition they are quite worthy the favor shown them4 ,it is only a matter of choice whether they shall be roasted or broiled2 if the latter way is decided upon1 then a garnishing of fried celery makes a tempting dish more tempting still4 ,only the tender1 smallest stocks of celery should be used1 and then1 after being dipped in frying batter1 they should be fried quickly in butter4 ,these birds1 and1 in fact1 all others1 when being broiled or roasted1 should not be salted till about two minutes before removing from the fire4 ,if the salt is put on earlier the meat is apt to be tough and the quality of the flavor somewhat injured4 ,i don't know that cookery books give this direction explicitly1 but ,i have found from experience that it is the case4 ,if you are to have your mallards roasted1 then by all means make a sour-apple marmalade1 strain it through a sieve and add to it half its quantity of unsweetened whipped cream4 ,if you have never tried this sauce with roasted duck1 then1 my word for it1 there is a gastronomical delight waiting for you1 and ,i wouldn't advise you to keep it waiting long1 for you will be the loser4 ,don't you recognize in this sauce an old friend in a new dress8 ,why1 of course1 roast duck and apple sauce is a dish our great-grandmothers were fond of2 but this latter-day manner of preparing the sauce1 you see1 idealizes it a bit and renders it so much the daintier4 ,another duck of delectable flavor is the ruddy duck1 or broadbill1 as it is known in some localities4 ,they live in the fresh ponds hereabouts1 and as long as the ponds remain unfrozen the ducks will be quite satisfied with this climate4 ,teal ducks1 too1 especially the blue-winged1 are of excellent flavor1 and1 in addition to this1 the meat is said to be highly nutritious and easily digested1 making them desirable for convalescents4 ,there is also a green-winged teal1 but it is far inferior to the first-mentioned variety4 ,one cannot very well decide upon the particular kind of game and the manner in which it shall be served without giving some thought to the salad that in reality acts as its supplement4 ,and the same rule which forbids the serving of a rich1 heavy sauce with game applies to salads4 ,the simpler the salad the more keenly will you relish the game4 ,chopped celery1 lettuce1 chicory1 watercress or cucumbers1 with a simple ,french dressing1 are the salads par excellence to be served with game4 ,by the way1 not long ago some one wrote to a certain weekly published in ,new ,york asking if it was good form to serve the game and the salad on the same plate4 ,it doesn't seem to me to be a matter in any way to be governed by what is called good form4 ,good taste and a very superficial knowledge of epicureanism would enable their possessor to understand that hot game should be hot1 not lukewarm1 and that the salads should be cold1 and the only way to accomplish this is to have a plate for each4 99 99 99 99 99 ,sardine ,canap ,cut some slices of bread from a not too fresh loaf1 trim them to an oblong shape1 remove all crust and toast a delicate brown4 ,into a pat of butter mix some finely chopped parsley1 pepper and lemon juice1 in suitable proportions1 and with the mixture coat the slices of toast4 ,remove the skin and bones from the desired number of sardines and lay them on the toast2 garnish between the sardines with hard-boiled eggs1 chopped very finely1 the whites and yolks separately4 ,sprinkle over all some minced parsley and there you have a canap--a sardine canap--one of the most delightful appetizers known to good diners of this day and generation4 ,moreover it is a fitting beginning for a ,christmas dinner of the kind which ,i am about to submit for your approval4 ,chicken ,consomm ,the wisdom of following the canap with the simplest soup possible will be quite apparent1 if ,i mistake not1 some time before the dinner is a thing of the past4 ,why not1 therefore1 prepare it in this way8 ,take a chicken1 cut it in pieces and put it into a saucepan with two quarts of water to simmer gently until the scum begins to rise1 skim until every particle is removed1 then add salt1 a carrot1 an onion1 two slices of turnip and three celery stalks4 ,boil gently for two hours1 strain and serve1 and your family and guests will have reason to bless the hour when you set before them a chicken consomm4 ,oysters ,baked with ,cheese ,after the soup8 ,well1 suppose you lay in a deep dish fit to be placed in the oven a bed of medium-sized oysters2 season them with salt1 pepper1 and a few small pieces of butter2 sift over them some fresh bread-crumbs and pour in a little sherry with some of the oyster liquor2 repeat the same operation until the dish is full1 then besprinkle the whole with bread-crumbs2 scatter small pats of butter here and there1 and set the dish in a hot oven for fifteen minutes to color a light brown1 then serve1 and serving be modestly proud of the fact that you have prepared a dish which sometimes appears upon the menu at ,delmonico's as ,hutres au ,gratin la ,crane4 ,order it the next time you are lunching or dining at that hostelry and compare your effort with that of the famous chef at ,delmonico's4 ,for your sake1 as well as for my own1 ,i trust that you will find that the success turned out by your own cuisine gains by the comparison4 ,goose ,stuffed with ,potato ,are you still wavering in your opinion as to whether your choice shall fall on turkey1 ducks or goose for the ,christmas dinner8 ,let it be goose then1 for if properly cooked and served they go far toward clinching the success of the feast4 ,but properly cooked and served1 there's the rub4 ,and isn't it enough to amaze a contemplative person to note how wide apart are the conditions which different housekeepers define by that phrase8 ,nevertheless ,i am going to tell you how it seems to me a goose should be prepared to answer the description4 ,if the bird is of medium size then you will want to boil and mash eight or ten large potatoes2 to them add half a dozen small onions which have been peeled and chopped as finely as possible2 then season with white pepper and salt to taste4 ,add at least half a pint of cream or rich milk1 about three ounces of melted butter1 and three eggs beaten to a froth4 ,whip the potato till it is light and smooth and fill the inside of the goose with it4 ,when it is sent to the table have it garnished with very small onions which have been boiled till tender without losing their shape1 and then fried a light brown in butter4 ,nothing can be better for a sauce than the giblets boiled till tender1 then chopped finely and returned to the water in which they were boiled1 with a little ,madeira1 and a gill of button mushrooms cut in halves2 thicken with a tablespoonful of browned flour braided with an equal quantity of butter4 ,turnips with ,butter ,sauce ,although there may be in market a goodly showing of vegetables from almost every part of the country1 not everything is calculated to supplement the flavor of roasted goose so well as is a sweet and well-flavored turnip4 ,particularly is this the case if the turnips are cut into fanciful shapes1 such as dice1 crescents1 etc41 with the vegetable cutters1 which come expressly for this purpose1 boiled till tender and then served with melted butter and chopped parsley poured over them4 ,victoria ,sorbet ,perhaps there are some housekeepers who will think ,i should suggest an entre to follow the goose1 but at this season of the year ,i am trying to live up to the golden rule1 and as at this point ,i should vastly prefer a punch or a sorbet to anything else1 ,i am going to recommend that you be guided by my preference4 ,you may take one quart of lemon water ice to which has been added the whites of three eggs beaten to a froth1 a gill of kirsch and half a pint of champagne1 and send to table in some of the pretty punch cups which formed one of your ,yule-tide gifts4 ,you may also serve cigarettes at the same time1 and1 my word for it1 your guests at table assembled will have a keener appetite for the next course than if you had sandwiched in some rich entre4 ,with about nine out of every ten suburbanites raising pigeons in these days it is very easy to understand why the squabs in the market are of such good quality and are sold at such a reasonable price4 ,and under these circumstances don't you think they will be excellent for the next course if broiled to a turn and accompanied by a salad of chicory or watercress8 ,after the squabs the sweets4 ,few housekeepers will think a ,christmas dinner complete without mince pies and plum-pudding1 but ,i cannot suggest a way in which to make them1 for truth to tell1 ,i never prepared either1 and ,i'm above offering you any recipes which ,i've not tried1 no matter how true they may be4 ,consult your cookery books if you've not a favorite method of your own for preparing these aids to indigestion1 and select those that seem least harmful4 ,of course1 there will be upon the table till dessert is served celery1 olives stuffed or plain1 salted almonds or pecans1 etc4 ,i know that you know this1 but had ,i neglected to mention it more than likely you would have accused me of being ignorant of the necessity of having these side dishes at a dinner4 ,after the sweets the biscuit1 cheese and coffee1 and if the cheese is to be of a particularly rich flavor1 such as ,camembert1 ,roquefort1 or ,brie1 then by all means serve with it some of the little ,bar-le-,duc currants1 both red and white4 ,are you to have wine8 ,then make it sherry with the soup1 champagne with the goose1 and the very best burgundy to be had to accompany the squabs4 ,i fancy there is nothing more that ,i can suggest that will add to your happiness or that of your guests1 who will probably feel very grateful to you for spreading for them a feast delectable to eat and to behold4 ,for yourself1 you will probably feel very grateful that ,christmas comes but once a year4 99 99 99 99 99 ,you shall not be put off with any side issue in these very last pages1 but shall have dished up for your critical examination a list that ,i promise you shall be a hodge-podge1 a mlange1 or1 if it please your sense of the fitness of things better1 a macdoine of the best edibles the market affords4 ,doubtless when you have been in ,western cities you have dined many a time and oft at those sky-high restaurants overlooking one of the ,great ,lakes1 and have had the waiter1 with an air of honesty made perfect by practice1 point out to you the very spot where the whitefish you were at the minute admiring had been pulled in scarcely three hours before4 ,if so1 you know the delicious and unapproachable flavor of the fish in their purest and best estate4 ,and yet they reach eastern markets in a remarkable state of freshness and are inexpensive enough to warrant any one in trying them for a change from the kinds that are more common here4 ,baked ,whitefish ,broiled over a hot fire and served with a simple sauce made of melted butter1 lemon juice and a sprinkling of cayenne they are good enough to serve at any meal for anybody4 ,but you can make a more elaborate dish from them by going to work in this way3 ,scale a rather good-sized fish1 split it1 remove the backbone1 and then season the fish well with salt and pepper1 dip it in beaten egg1 then in bread-crumbs1 again in beaten egg1 and lay in a well buttered baking pan4 ,bake in a hot oven till it is colored a good brown4 ,take it up on a hot dish1 set the baking pan having in it the hot butter on the top of the range and cook in it for a minute or two half a pint of drained oysters2 arrange the oysters round the fish and pour a little melted butter over all1 with a garnishing of fried parsley4 ,if you are having this dish for luncheon1 have with it some potato croquettes1 but if it is intended for dinner and a roast or rich entre is to follow1 then have a dainty salad of crisp radishes with a handful of capers shaken over them4 ,boiled ,cods' ,tongues ,and now is the time if ever that fresh cods' tongues should find favor4 ,they are inexpensive and in perfect condition1 and by more than one gourmet are considered an unrivalled delicacy4 ,if this statement persuades you to give them a trial1 just a word as to preparing them3 ,have three pints of water boiling in a saucepan1 add to it two carrots and half a dozen onions very finely chopped1 a few sprigs of parsley and two gills of vinegar4 ,when the vegetables are nearly tender enough put into the saucepan with them two pounds of cods' tongues4 ,let them boil just once1 then move back where they will simmer but not boil for twenty minutes or so4 ,take up the tongues1 drain1 dress them on a hot dish and keep hot while you prepare the sauce4 ,for this drain the vegetables and toss them about in a frying-pan in plenty of butter till they show signs of browning a bit1 then add to them some chopped cucumber pickles and a few capers and pour round the tongues4 ,season the sauce1 of course1 with salt and pepper1 and if you are gifted with rare discretion in the matter of spices use ever so little nutmeg in it2 just one or two turns of the grater will give you all you should have4 ,i intend to be very particular in my choice of readers and hearers when ,i suggest the use of nutmeg in savory sauces1 because there are so many housekeepers as well as cooks who positively are not to be trusted with a nutmeg in one hand and a grater in the other2 they will persist in going on the principle that if a little is good more must be better1 and then grate away for dear life4 ,of course you know that smelts are in their prime1 but is your sense of smell keen enough to detect in that fish the likeness of its fragrance to that of the violet or of the cucumber8 ,well1 the similarity is there if the fish be as fresh as it should1 and if you don't discover it you may add another to your list of misfortunes1 for they do say1 those who know whereof they speak1 that inability to perceive this subtle scent indicates a correspondingly unappreciative palate4 ,and so much for my fish story4 ,fried ,partridge ,breasts ,along with the many things for which we have cause for rejoicing about this time of year there should certainly be reckoned the fact that game of almost all kinds is more plentiful and less expensive than at other seasons4 ,and you know that under such favorable circumstances as these ,i am wont to urge you to make experiments in preparing the viand in question4 ,suppose1 for instance1 that the next time you are to have partridges you pretend to forget that these birds are ever roasted or broiled1 and so set to work to serve them in this way3 ,have four partridges1 cut off the breasts1 divide them in two and lay them aside2 boil the legs and livers of the birds in salted water till they are quite tender--so tender1 in fact1 that they can be pressed through a rather coarse sieve4 ,put this pulp into a saucepan with a gill of the water used for boiling it1 half a gill of sherry wine1 a bit of cayenne1 an ounce of butter1 and salt if it is needed4 ,let this get hot1 very hot1 without boiling1 and keep it hot while you cook the breasts4 ,these fry in butter and range in a circle on a dish with alternate slices of bread also fried in butter1 and in the centre pour the sauce made from the legs and livers4 ,to be sure1 you can make the sauce somewhat richer by adding to it chopped mushrooms or chopped truffles or both4 ,roasted ,quails ,forget1 also1 for a time1 your favorite ways of cooking quails in order that you may pronounce judgment on this manner of preparing them3 ,have half a dozen of them drawn and singed for roasting4 ,chop up the livers1 double the quantity of chicken liver and as much minced fat salt pork as liver2 add chopped parsley1 salt1 cayenne1 three or four drops of onion juice1 a tablespoonful of very fine bread-crumbs1 and one beaten egg4 ,mix these ingredients all well together and fill the quails with it2 roast them in a rather moderate oven for twenty minutes1 basting occasionally with melted butter4 ,dress the quails on a hot dish1 squeeze a few drops of lemon juice into the pan in which they were roasted1 adding a little melted butter1 and pour this sauce over the birds4 ,roasted ,duck ,stuffed with ,celery ,or it may be that for yourself you prefer a roasted black duck1 but cannot gratify your preference because some members of the family will insist upon calling such a bird strong1 when you know and speak of the flavor only as being gamey4 ,now1 there's a way out of the difficulty for all of you4 ,just stuff the birds as full as you can with celery tops1 tie thin slices of fat salt pork over their breasts and roast them till they are quite tender and brown4 ,you will find the strong flavor entirely gone1 while the gamey taste will be so aided and abetted by the celery that your palate will receive a new and altogether delightful sensation4 ,surround the ducks when serving with a border prepared as follows3 ,brown some slices of bread in the oven1 and when of a good color and very dry1 roll and pass through a fine sieve1 mix these crumbs with a little butter1 season them with salt and pepper and heat well in the oven before using4 ,serve with the ducks also a hot apple sauce2 make it as you always do and add to one pint of sauce an ounce of butter4 ,with either of the ways suggested for cooking game you will want to serve a salad1 probably1 and you can't do better than decide to have one of escarole or of romaine with a simple ,french dressing4 ,but there is chicory1 of course1 and there is lettuce1 and both of them in fine condition1 if you don't feel inclined to take my advice4 ,and there are cucumbers1 from hothouses1 and there are hothouse tomatoes1 that are expensive or the reverse1 according to one's position on the financial question4 ,in fact1 you can get almost any kind of vegetable or fruit in the large markets to-day1 and at all times2 and if the particular thing that you desire happens to be absent1 just wait a few minutes and your order will be filled by lightning express from some part of the world4 ,index ,,soups ,,page ,asparagus #ib ,bisque of clams #hi ,chicken consomm #bbj ,consomm with asparagus #aig ,pure of peas and spinach #gi ,savory tomato #hg ,soup1 velvet #agg ,,fish ,bluefish1 ,newport style #afi ,cods' tongues1 boiled #bbg ,fresh cod1 baked #i ,fresh cod1 broiled #i ,fresh cod1 ,delmonico style #h ,fresh cod1 flaked1 in tomato sauce #cg ,halibut1 baked1 with ,parmesan #agh ,smelts1 baked #afg ,smelts1 broiled1 ,barnaise sauce #afg ,smelts1 fried1 with parsley #afh ,trout1 lake1 boiled #ej ,whitefish1 baked #bbf ,,smoked ,,or ,,salt ,,fish ,codfish with brown butter #dd ,codfish with cream #dc ,cods' tongues1 fried #de ,fillets of sole1 casserole of #ea ,finnan haddies with cream #dh ,herring1 fried #dg ,mackerel1 boiled1 horse-radish sauce #df ,salmon1 broiled #df ,,shell ,,fish ,clam cocktails #fe ,clams1 ,west ,island style #id ,clams and lobsters in shells #ie ,lobster la ,newberg #ch1 #acj ,lobster croquettes #aca ,lobster1 devilled #abi ,lobster patties #acd ,lobster tartlets #acj ,lobster toast #abi ,lobster tails stuffed #aca ,oysters1 baked #adc ,oysters1 baked with cheese #bbj ,oyster cocktails #adb ,oysters1 creamed #cg ,oysters1 celery roast #adf ,oysters1 devilled and fried #ade ,oysters1 pickled #adg ,oyster pie #adf ,oyster salad #ag ,oyster sandwiches #aij ,oyster souffle #eb ,oysters1 stewed1 with cream #add ,oysters1 stuffed and fried #ade ,scallops in shells #baj ,,beef1 ,,mutton1 ,,lamb1 ,,pork1 ,,etc4 ,beef tongue #aab ,cutlets1 jellied #adj ,ham1 roasted #e ,ham toast #ajb ,kidneys1 en brochette #be ,kidneys1 fried1 with mushrooms #bf ,kidneys1 minced #bg ,lamb croquettes #bc ,lamb cutlets with mushrooms #ace ,lamb1 roasted1 with caper sauce #bj ,lamb1 roasted1 with macaroni #ba ,lamb1 roasted1 with onion pure #ba ,lamb steak #ff ,lamb steak1 with ,barnaise sauce #fg ,lamb slices1 broiled #bb ,lamb slices1 fried with chutney #bb ,lamb slices1 stewed with onions and mushrooms #bb ,lamb slices in chafing dish #bc ,liver1 calf's1 fried #bh ,pigs' feet1 broiled #f ,pork chops1 broiled1 sauce piquante #c ,pork1 roasted1 onion sauce #d ,sausages #b ,veal cutlets1 broiled #hc ,,poultry1 ,,game1 ,,etc4 ,chicken cream 7cold7 #db1 #ach ,chicken cream with tomato 7cold7 #aci ,chicken1 fried1 ,italian style #aei ,chicken1 fried with tomatoes #afj ,chicken1 fried1 cream sauce #ajj ,chicken hash1 baked #hd ,chicken livers1 olive sauce #ci ,chicken liver patties #baa ,doe birds1 roasted #aaa ,duck1 broiled canvas-back #bad ,duck1 canvas-back1 roasted1 port wine sauce #bae ,duck1 fillets1 with orange sauce #bjg ,ducks1 roasted1 with orange sauce #afj ,ducks1 roasted1 with olives #agi ,duck1 stuffed with celery tops1 roasted #bcj ,duck1 mallard1 roasted1 with fried celery #baf ,game tarts #aaa ,goose pie #bje ,goose1 roasted1 potato stuffing #bba ,goose1 stewed #bjf ,grouse pie #aai ,grouse1 roasted #agf ,partridge breasts1 fried #bbi ,partridge salmi 7cold7 #baj ,plover1 roasted #abj ,quail1 roasted #agf1 #bcj ,teal 7ducks71 roasted #baa ,turkey in aspic #aaa ,turkey legs1 broiled #bjc ,turkey legs1 devilled and broiled #bjc ,turkey1 minced #bje ,turkey1 minced with mushrooms #bjd ,,vegetables ,asparagus1 baked #gg ,asparagus tops with cheese #ij ,asparagus tops with cream #gf ,asparagus with savory sauce #gg ,cucumbers1 fried #if ,cucumbers1 stuffed and baked #ie ,mushroom cannelons #aih ,oyster plant with cream #aah ,peas with mint #ib ,potato souffle #fg ,potato omelet #bjd ,squash1 baked #bjf ,string beans with butter #aii ,tomatoes1 broiled1 devilled #afa ,tomatoes1 broiled1 on toast #afb ,tomatoes with celery and mayonnaise #bab ,turnips with butter sauce #bbb ,,salads ,apple and celery #afb ,asparagus #gg1 #hh ,brussels sprouts #af ,cheese #aic ,duck #bjg ,fish #bjh ,herring #hd ,lamb #bd ,lettuce with chives #ia ,nut #ah ,oyster #ag ,red cabbage #ad ,sardine #af ,spanish onion #ae ,,sweet ,,salads ,fruit--general #ajg ,fruit--summer #bja ,fruit--winter #ah ,pear #ajf ,pear salad1 ,no4 #b #afd ,pineapple #ajf ,strawberry #aje ,,egg ,,dishes ,baked #eg ,curdled in cream #ee ,eggs1 curried #da ,eggs1 snow #fb ,epicurean style #ef ,in tomato pure #eh ,omelet ,clestine #fa ,omelet jelly #fj ,omelet1 ,spanish #ei ,omelet strawberries #fj ,omelet with caviare #eh ,omelet with chicken liver #ei ,omelette souffle #fb ,scrambled with truffles #eh ,toast with ,parmesan #eg ,,desserts ,almond pudding #ec ,charlotte1 apricot #ha ,charlotte1 macaroon #ahj ,cream1 banana #ajh ,cream1 coffee glace #ec ,cream1 gooseberry #ajb ,cream1 peach #ajh ,cream1 raspberry #ajh ,macaroon custard #bab ,milk sherbet #abc ,musk melon jelly #aad ,omelet ,clestine #fa ,omelet with jelly #fj ,omelet with strawberries #fj ,omelette souffle #fb ,raspberries1 crystallized #ajg ,strawberries1 frozen #ia ,strawberry fritters #ajc ,strawberry jelly #aje ,strawberry pudding #ajd ,strawberry sherbet #abd ,watermelon1 iced #ii ,,ice ,,creams ,,and ,,ices ,champagne sherbet #abe ,champagne sherbet with strawberries #abf ,claret sherbet #abf ,coffee ice cream #abc ,currant sherbet #abd ,grape fruit sherbet #bja ,kirsch sherbet #abg ,peach sherbet #abd ,pineapple sherbet #abd ,rhubarb sherbet #ha ,victoria sorbet #bbc ,wine ice cream #acg ,,fruits1 ,,cooked ,apple croquettes #c ,apple salad #aef ,apple sauce with orange #afc ,apple sauce with whipped cream #afc ,apples1 fried #aee ,apples in vanilla syrup #aee ,grape jam #adi ,peach cream #afe ,pears in vanilla syrup #aeg ,pears stewed in claret #aeh ,pears1 stuffed #afd ,pears1 stuffed stewed #aeh ,peaches1 brandied #aed ,peaches1 stuffed #afe ,plums1 brandied #aec ,plum jam #aeb ,quince jelly #aea ,quince marmalade #aej ,,drinks ,claret1 hot1 egg-nog #ahb ,claret1 hot1 spiced #ahb ,claret tipple #ahb ,cider cup #ahf ,cider egg-nog #ahe ,cider punch #ahd ,ginger lemonade #ahf ,moss rose #aae ,orange punch #ahd ,quince liqueur #ahe ,rhine wine cup #ahf ,rhine wine seltzer #ahf ,soda cocktail #ahg ,sherry egg-nog1 hot #ahc ,various cups #ahf ,,miscellaneous ,butters1 savory #aia ,cider sauce #e ,croquettes1 macaroni #bg ,croquettes1 sweet corn 7canned7 #aa ,golden buck #da ,grape fruit with rum #bja ,hash1 sublimated #ab ,jelly1 savory #aic ,johnny cake1 ,rhode ,island style #ac ,macaroni1 timbales #ea ,macaroni with cheese #aii ,mayonnaise1 with horse-radish #gi ,olives with caviare #gh ,partridge1 sauce for #age ,rice muffins #ab ,sandwiches1 caviare #aij ,sandwiches1 crust #aia ,sandwiches1 fish #aia ,sandwiches1 ,french #aac ,sandwiches1 game #aia ,sandwiches1 sweet #aib ,sardine canap #bai ,sauce duchesse #hj ,sauce for calf's liver #bi ,sauce1 onion #hj ,toast1 anchovy #fi ,toast for game #agd ,toast1 sardine #fi ,tunny fish #gj ,welsh rabbit #dj ,,invalid ,,cookery ,barley1 pure of #ca ,beef tea #cb ,chicken broth with oatmeal #ca ,chicken custard #cc ,chicken1 sabayon of #cb ,cream soup #cb ,invalid's chop #ce ,rice1 steamed #ce ,tapioca jelly #cc ,violet jelly #cd ,works on ,cookery ,,mrs4 ,,lincoln',s ,,cook ,,book ,new ,edition4 ,the ,boston ,cook ,book4 ,what to ,do and ,what ,not to ,do in ,cooking4 ,by ,,mary ,j4 ,,lincoln4 ,with #ea illustrations4 ,revised edition1 including #bej additional recipes1 #abmo4 #b4jj4 ,it is the trimmest1 best arranged1 best illustrated1 most intelligible manual of cookery as a high art1 and as an economic art1 that has appeared4--,independent4 ,it tells in the most ample and practical and exact way those little things which women ought to know1 but have generally to learn by sad experience4 ,it ought to be in every household4--,philadelphia ,press4 ,,carving ,,and ,,serving ,square #abmo4 ,illuminated board covers4 #fj cents4 ,what an advantage it must be to be able to place with the left hand a fork in the breast of a turkey1 and1 without once removing it1 with the right hand to carve and dissect1 or disjoint1 the entire fowl1 ready to be helped to admiring guests6 ,this is done by skilful carvers4 ,the book contains directions for serving1 with a list of utensils for carving and serving4 ,,boston ,,school ,,kitchen ,,text-,,book ,lessons in ,cooking for the use in ,classes in ,public and ,industrial ,schools4 #abmo4 #a4jj4 ,,twenty ,,lessons ,,in ,,cookery ,compiled from the ,boston ,school ,kitchen ,text-,book4 ,with ,index4 ,cards in envelope4 #dj cents per set net4 ,,the ,,peerless ,,cook-,,book ,one hundred pages of ,valuable ,receipts for ,cooking1 ,compact and ,practical4 #afmo4 ,paper covers4 #ae cents4 ,,miss ,,farmer',s ,,cook ,,book4 ,new ,edition ,the ,boston ,cooking-,school ,cook ,book4 ,by ,,fannie ,,merritt ,,farmer1 ,principal of the ,boston ,cooking-,school1 author of ,chafing ,dish ,possibilities4 ,new edition1 with one hundred additional receipts4 ,illustrated4 #abmo4 #b4jj4 ,miss ,farmer's ,cook ,book has constantly been growing in favor and is now in the front rank4 ,the ,congregationalist pronounces it thoroughly practical and serviceable1 and numerous authorities award it the highest praise4 ,it should be in every household4 ,if one were asked off-hand to name the best cook book on the market it would not be strange if ,the ,boston ,cooking-,school ,cook ,book were named4--,the ,new ,york ,woman's ,world4 ,the recipes are compounded with a knowledge of the science of cooking1 and with due regard to the conservative public1 which must be wooed into a knowledge and appreciation of foods1 not merely as palate-ticklers1 but as the builders and sustainers of the human body4--,the ,outlook4 ,,chafing ,,dish ,,possibilities ,by ,,fannie ,,merritt ,,farmer4 #afmo4 #a4jj4 ,contents3 ,i4 ,glimpses of ,chafing ,dishes in the ,past2 ,,ii4 ,chafing ,dish ,suggestions2 ,,iii4 ,toast1 ,griddle ,cakes1 and ,fritters2 ,,iv4 ,eggs2 ,v4 ,oysters2 ,,vi4 ,lobsters2 ,,vii4 ,some ,other ,shell ,fish2 ,,viii4 ,fish ,rchauffs2 ,,ix4 ,beef2 ,x4 ,lamb and ,mutton2 ,,xi4 ,chicken2 ,,xii4 ,sweetbreads2 ,,xiii4 ,with the ,epicure2 ,,xiv4 ,vegetables2 ,,xv4 ,cheese ,dishes2 ,,xvi4 ,relishes and ,sweets2 ,,xvii4 ,candies4 ,it is a book that no one who entertains with the chafing dish will be without4--,st4 ,paul ,globe4 ,her recipes have the merit of simplicity and newness4--,los ,angeles ,evening ,express4 ,there have been many volumes of chafing dish recipes1 but none which is more appropriately adapted for the breakfast or lunch table1 or for small congenial parties4 ,every feature is distinctly new4--,boston ,herald4 ,nearly #bej recipes1 all simply and clearly written4--,san ,francisco ,chronicle4 ,,salads1 ,,sandwiches1 ,,and ,,chafing-,,dish ,,dainties ,by ,,janet ,,mckenzie ,,hill1 editor of ,the ,boston ,cooking-,school ,magazine4 ,with #cc half-tone illustrations from photographs of original dishes4 #ab mo4 ,cloth1 extra4 #a4ej4 ,to the housewife who likes new and dainty ways of serving food1 this book will simply be a godsend4 ,there must be more than a hundred different varieties of salad among the recipes--salads made of fruit1 of fish1 of meat1 of vegetables1 and made to look pretty in scores of different ways4 ,there are also instructions for making different kinds of lemonades and other soft drinks1 and for making breads and rolls in the truly artistic cooking-school style4--,washington ,times4 ,sensible and practical4--,chicago ,evening ,post4 ,many of the dishes are new to the average housewife4--,philadelphia ,times4 ,a most attractive volume4 ,the subjects are presented in a clear and pleasing form1 and are beautifully illustrated from photographs of original dishes4--,advance4 ,her recipes are founded upon scientific principles1 her directions are clear and uncomplicated1 and are reliable4--,brooklyn ,times4 ,the very attractive form of the book fits it to go along with the pretty adjuncts of the chafing dish supper4--,the ,dial4 ,it is a thoroughly practical work and will be cordially welcomed in every household where new and dainty ways of preparing food are appreciated4--,boston ,globe4 ,wholesome dishes that will please capricious appetites4 ,some of these recipes will also appeal to the taste of invalids4--,vogue4 ,i ,,go ,a-,,marketing ,by ,,henrietta ,,sowle 7,henriette74 #abmo4 ,cloth4 #a4ej4 ,miss ,sowle has for some time been a valued writer for the ,boston ,transcript1 and her articles published under the title of ,i ,go ,a-,marketing have been found helpful and suggestive to those who are interested in dainty and palatable dishes4 ,her book is not a cook-book in the ordinary sense but aims to give novel and delicious ways of serving the many good things which may be found each month in the year by those who go a-marketing4 ,,helen ,,campbell',s ,,writings ,,the ,,easiest ,,way ,,in ,,housekeeping ,,and ,,cooking ,adapted to ,domestic ,use or ,study in ,classes4 ,new revised edition4 #afmo4 #a4jj4 ,,in ,,foreign ,,kitchens ,with choice recipes from ,england1 ,france1 ,germany1 ,italy1 and the ,north4 #afmo4 #ej cents4 ,,the ,,what-,,to-,,do ,,club ,a ,story for ,girls4 #afmo4 #a4ej4 ,,mrs4 ,,herndon',s ,,income ,a ,novel4 #afmo4 #a4ej4 ,,miss ,,melinda',s ,,opportunity ,a ,story for ,girls4 #afmo4 #a4jj2 paper1 #ej cents4 ,,prisoners ,,of ,,poverty ,women ,wage-,workers1 their ,trades1 and their ,lives4 #abmo4 #a4jj4 ,,prisoners ,,of ,,poverty ,,abroad #afmo4 #a4jj2 paper1 #ej cents4 ,she went among the workers and the employers1 and her statements are based upon personal knowledge of the facts4444--,boston ,post4 ,,roger ,,berkeley',s ,,probation ,a ,story4 #abmo4 #a4jj2 paper1 #ej cents4 ,,some ,,passages ,,in ,,the ,,practice ,,of ,,dr4 ,,martha ,,scarborough #afmo4 #a4jj4 ,this work directs attention to the physical and spiritual value of foods4 ,,women ,,wage-,,earners ,their ,past1 their ,present1 and their ,future4 #afmo4 #a4jj4 ,,little1 ,,brown1 ,,and ,,company ,publishers #bed ,washington ,street1 ,boston ,transcriber's ,note ,the original book used sidenotes to indicate recipe names4 ,in this version of the e-book1 the transcriber has rendered the recipe names as sub-headings for ease of reading4 ,the table of contents has been added by the transcriber for the convenience of the reader4 ,minor punctuation errors have been repaired4 ,several terms appear variously with a hyphen or a space--bread-crumbs and bread crumbs1 chafing-dish and chafing dish1 egg-plant and egg plant1 horse-radish and horse radish1 etc4 ,these are preserved as printed4 ,hyphenation has otherwise been made consistent4 ,the author uses some variant spelling1 for example1 curaoa or bran new4 ,there are also some inconsistencies--omelet and omelette1 souffl and souffle1 piquant and piquante4 ,these are all preserved as printed4 ,there are some small inconsistencies between recipe names in the main body of the book and those in the index4 ,these are all preserved as printed4 ,on page #bi1 the word chevril 7a type of horse tea7 occurred4 ,as it appeared in a paragraph referencing several herbs as seasoning1 it has been amended to chervil1 on the assumption that that was actually the intended word4 ,on page #baf is the phrase tender1 smallest stocks of celery4 ,this may be an error for stalks of celery1 or it could be that the intention was to refer to a store of celery or the availability of it4 ,as there is no way to sure1 it is preserved as printed4