,a ,,manual ,,( ,,%oemak+ ,illu/ration3 ,an ,old-,fa%ion$ ,%oemak]4 ,frontispiece4 ,a ,,manual ,,( ,,%oemak+ ,,& ,,lea!r ,,& ,,rubb] ,,products ,,by ,,william ,h4 ,,dooley ,,pr9cipal ,,( ,,! ,,l[ell ,,indu/rial ,,s*ool ,,illu/rat$ ,,bo/on ,,little1 ,,br[n1 ,,& ,,company #aiab ,copyright1 #aiab1 ,,by ,,little1 ,,br[n1 ,,& ,,company4 ,all rights res]v$4 ,publi%$1 ,septemb]1 #aiab4 ,,preface ,! au?or 0 ask$ 9 #aijh by ! ,lynn ,commission on ,indu/rial ,education to make an inve/igation ( ,european %oe s*ools & to assi/ ! ,commission 9 prep>+ a c\rse ( /udy = ! propos$ %oe s*ool 9 ! city ( ,lynn4 ,a close inve/igation %[$ t !re 7 sev]al textbooks on %oemak+ publi%$ 9 ,europe1 b t no g5]al textbook on %oemak+ _h be5 issu$ 9 ?is c\ntry adapt$ to meet ! ne$s ( indu/rial1 trade1 & comm]cial s*ools or ^? :o h j ent]$ ! rubb]1 %oe1 & lea!r trades4 ,?is book is writt5 to meet ?is ne$4 ,o!rs may f9d x ( int]e/4 ,! au?or is "u obligations to ! foll[+ p]sons & firms = in=mation & assi/ance 9 prep>+ ! book1 & = p]mission to reproduce photographs & in=mation f _! publications3 ,mr4 ,j4 ,h4 ,f9n1 ,mr4 ,frank ,l4 ,we/1 ,head ( ,%oemak+ ,dep>tm5t1 ,tuskegee1 ,ala41 ,mr4 ,l\is ,flem+1 ,mr4 ,f4 ,g>rison1 ,presid5t ( ,%oe & ,lea!r ,gazette1 ,mr4 ,ar?ur ,l4 ,evans1 ,! ,%oeman1 ,mr4 ,*>les ,f4 ,cahill1 ,unit$ ,%oe ,ma*9]y ,company1 ,hood ,rubb] ,company1 ,bliss ,%oe ,company1 ,am]ican ,hide & ,lea!r ,company1 ,regal ,%oe ,company1 ! publi%]s ( ,hide & ,lea!r1 ,am]ican ,%oemak+1 ,%oe ,repair+1 ,boot & ,%oe ,record]1 ,! ,weekly ,bullet91 & ! ,new ,york ,lea!r ,belt+ ,company4 ,9 addition1 ! au?or desires to ackn[l$ge 8 indebt$ness to ! great body ( =eign lit]ature on ! diff]5t subjects f :i* in=mation has be5 obta9$4 ,,cont5ts ,,page ,,preface v ,,*apt] ,i4 ,,fundam5tal ,,%oe ,,t]ms #a ,,ii4 ,,hides ,,& ,,_! ,,treatm5t #d ,,iii4 ,,processes ,,( ,,tann+ #ba ,,iv4 ,,! ,,anatomy ,,( ,,! ,,foot #gg ,v4 ,,h[ ,,%oe ,,/yles ,,are ,,made #ic ,,vi4 ,,dep>tm5ts ,,( ,a ,,%oe ,,factory #ajc ,,vii4 ,,mckay ,,& ,,turn$ ,,%oes #add ,,viii4 ,,old-,,fa%ion$ ,,%oemak+ ,,& ,,repair+ #afb ,,ix4 ,,lea!r ,,& ,,%oemak+ ,,t]ms #agg ,x4 ,,lea!r ,,products ,,manufacture #bah ,,xi4 ,,rubb] ,,%oe ,,manufacture ,,& ,,t]ms #bbh ,,xii4 ,,hi/ory ,,( ,,footwe> #bej ,,index #bha ,,li/ ,,( ,,illu/rations ,an ,old-fa%ion$ ,%oemak] ,frontispiece ,,fac+ ,,page ,names ( ! ,diff]5t ,p>ts ( ,foot ,we> #b ,gre5-salt$ ,calfsk9 #ab ,tann+ ,process #bd ,tann+ ,process1 %[+ ,rotat+ ,drums #bh ,sole ,lea!r ,(fal #cd ,bones & ,jo9ts ( ! ,human ,foot #gh ,! ,diff]5t ,p>ts ( ! ,foot & ,ankle #gh ,a ,la/ 9 ,?ree ,/ages ( ,manufacture #ih ,a ,mod]n ,%oe ,factory #ajd ,a ,sk9 ,divid$ be=e ,cutt+ #aab ,cutt+ ,lea!r #aaf ,goodye> ,/it*+ #aaf ,/ock ,fitt+ ,room #abj ,la/+ #abd ,welt+ #abd ,r\gh ,r\nd+ #abh ,edge ,trimm+ #abh ,level+ #acb ,heel+ #acb ,sole ,sc\r+ #acf ,heel ,%ap+ #acf ,iron+ #adj ,pack+ #adj ,cross ,sections ( ,welt ,%oe & ,mc,kay ,sew$ ,%oe #add ,/it*+ #adh ,tack+ #adh ,cross ,section ( ,/&>d ,screw$ ,%oe #afj ,side ( ,lea!r divid$ z to ,quality #afh ,cross ,section ( ,mc,kay ,sew$ ,%oe #bjj ,cross ,section ( ,goodye> ,welt ,%oe #bjj ,crude ,rubb] #bbh ,wa%+ & ,dry+ #bcb ,cal5d] ,room #bcd ,cutt+ ,room #bcf ,putt+ toge!r ! ,p>ts ( a ,rubb] ,%oe #bdj ,heel-mak+ ,dep>tm5t #bdb ,p>ts ( a ,rubb] ,boot #bdh ,insole = ,h&-sew$ ,%oe #bfd ,h&-sew$ ,%oe #bfd ,/it*+ ,room ( a ,g]man ,%oe ,factory #bgf ,,%oemak+ ,,*apt] ,,"o ,,fundam5tal ,,%oe ,,t]ms ,be=e expla9+ ! manufacture ( %oes1 x is necess>y to fix def9itely 9 our m9ds ! names ( _! diff]5t p>ts4 ,exam9e y\r %oes & note ! p>ts t are "h describ$4 ,! bottom ( ! %oe is call$ ! sole4 ,! "p above ! sole is call$ ! upp]4 ,! top ( ! %oe is t "p measur$ by ! lac+ :i* cov]s ! ankle & ! in/ep4 ,! vamp is t section :i* cov]s ! sides ( ! foot & ! toes4 ,! %ank is t "p ( ! sole ( ! %oe betwe5 ! heel & ! ball4 ,?is "n is (t5 appli$ to a piece ( metal or o!r sub/ance 9 t "p ( ! sole1 int5d$ to give support to ! ar* ( ! foot4 ,! ?roat ( ! vamp is t "p :i* curves ar\nd ! l[] edge ( ! top1 :]e ! lac+ />ts4 ,back/ay is a t]m us$ to d5ote a /rip ( lea!r cov]+ & /r5g!n+ ! back seam ( ! %oe4 ,qu>t] is a t]m us$ mo/ly 9 l[ %oes to d5ote ! re> "p ( ! upp] :5 a full vamp is n us$4 ,button fly is ! portion ( ! upp] conta9+ ! buttonholes ( a button %oe4 ,tip is ! toe piece ( a %oe1 /it*$ to ! vamp & outside ( x4 ,! lace /ay is a t]m us$ to d5ote a /rip ( lea!r ren=c+ ! eyelet holes4 ,tongue d5otes a n>r[ /rip ( lea!r us$ on all lace %oes to protect ! in/ep f ! lac+ & wea!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,names ( ! ,diff]5t ,p>ts ( ,foot ,we>4 ,page #b4 ,fox+ is ! "n appli$ to lea!r ( ! upp] t ext5ds f ! sole to ! laces 9 front1 & to ab\t ! height ( ! c\nt] 9 ! back1 be+ ! l5g? ( ! upp]4 ,x may be 9 "o or m pieces1 & is (t5 cut d[n to ! %ank 9 circul> =m4 ,if 9 two pieces1 t "p cov]+ ! c\nt] is call$ a heel fox4 ,ov]lay is a t]m appli$ to lea!r atta*$ to ! upp] "p ( ! vamp ( a slipp]4 ,! brea/ ( ! heel is ! inn] "p ( ! heel1 t is1 ! section ne>e/ ! %ank4 ,,*apt] ,,two ,,hides ,,& ,,_! ,,treatm5t ,if we exam9e our %oes1 we w f9d t ! diff]5t p>ts are compos$ ( mat]ial call$ lea!r4 ,! bottom ( ! %oe is ( h>d lea!r1 :ile ! "p above ! sole is ( a s(t]1 m pliable lea!r4 ,?is lea!r is no?+ m ?an ! hides ( diff]5t animals treat$ 9 su* a way z to remove ! fat & ! hair4 ,aft] ! hides h be5 tak5 f ! dead body ( ! animal1 !y are q heavily salt$ to pres]ve !m f spoil+4 ,9 ?is salt$ condition !y are %ipp$ to ! tann]ies4 ,! process or s]ies ( processes by :i* ! hides & sk9s ( animals are conv]t$ into lea!r is call$ tann+4 ,! process may be divid$ into ?ree gr\ps ( subprocesses z foll[s3-- ,beamh\se process1 :i* removes ! hair f ! hides & prep>es !m = ! actual process ( ! tann+ or conv]sion into lea!r2 tann+1 :i* conv]ts ! raw hide into lea!r2 & f9i%+1 :i* involves a numb] ( op]ations1 ! objects ( :i* are to give ! lea!r ! color t may be desir$ & also to make x ( uni=m ?ickness1 & imp>t to x ! s(tness & ! f9i% t is requir$ = a p>ticul> purpose4 ,hides are divid$ r\ghly 9 ! tann]y1 accord+ to ! size1 into ?ree g5]al classes3-- 7#a7 ,hides1 sk9s f fully gr[n animals1 z c[s1 ox51 horses1 buffaloes1 walrus1 etc4 ,^! are ?ick1 heavy lea!r1 us$ = %oe soles1 l>ge ma*9]y belt+1 trunks1 etc41 :]e /iffness1 /r5g?1 & we>+ qualities are desir$4 ,! untann$ hides weigh f tw5ty-five to sixty p\nds4 7#b7 ,kips1 sk9s ( ! und]siz$ animals ( ! above gr\p1 weigh+ betwe5 fifte5 & tw5ty-five p\nds4 7#c7 ,sk9s f small animals1 su* z calves1 %eep1 goats1 dogs1 etc4 ,?is la/ gr\p gives a light1 b /rong & pliable lea!r1 :i* may be us$ = a great _m purposes1 su* z m5's %oes & ! heavi] grades ( wom5's %oes4 ,! hides1 kips1 & sk9s are divid$ into v>i\s grades1 accord+ to _! weight1 size1 condition1 & quality4 ,! quality ( ! hides n only dep5ds ^u ! k9d ( animal1 b also ^u its fodd] & mode ( liv+4 ,! hides ( wild cattle yield a m compact & /rong] lea!r ?an ^? ( our dome/icat$ bea/s4 ,among ^! latt] ! /all-f$ h bett] hides ?an ! mead[-f$1 or graz+ cattle4 ,! ?ickness ( ! hide v>ies consid]ably on diff]5t animals & on ! p>ts ( ! body1 ! ?icke/ "p ( ! bull be+ ne> ! head & ! middle ( ! back1 :ile at ! belly ! hide is ?9ne/4 ,^! diff]5ces are less conspicu\s 9 %eep1 goats1 & calves4 ,z reg>ds %eep1 x w\ld appe> t _! sk9 is g5]ally ?9ne/ :]e _! wool is longe/4 ,9 ! raw1 untann$ /ate1 & ) ! hair /ill on1 ! hides are t]m$ 8gre50 or 8fre%40 ,fre%1 or gre5 hides are suppli$ to ! tann]s by ! pack]s or ! but*]s1 or are import$1 ei!r dry or salt$4 ,hides are obta9$ ei!r f ! regul> pack+ h\ses or f f>m]s :o kill _! own /ock1 & d n sk9 ! animal z sci5tifically z ! regul> pack+ h\ses1 9 :i* case !y are call$ c\ntry hides4 ,!re are diff]5t grades ( hides & lea!r1 & ^! diff]5t grades are divid$ 9 ! comm]cial _w into ! five foll[+ grades3-- ,i4 ,,native ,,hides ,native ,/e]s ,native ,c[s1 heavy ,native ,c[s1 light ,br&$ ,c[s ,butts ,colorado ,/e]s ,texas ,/e]s1 heavy ,texas ,/e]s1 light ,texas ,/e]s1 ex-light ,native ,bulls ,br&$ ,bulls ,,ii4 ,,c\ntry ,,hides ,ohio ,buffs ,ohio ,ex4 ,s\!rns ,,iii4 ,,dry ,,hides 7,rais$ on pla94 ,r\gh side suitable = soles47 ,bu5os ,ayres ,,iv4 ,,calfsk9s 7,gre5 salt$7 ,*icago ,city ,v4 ,,p>is ,,city ,,calfsk9s ,light ,m$ium ,heavy ,hides obta9$ f /e]s rais$ on ,we/]n f>ms are kn[n z native /e] hides4 ,native c[hide 7heavy7 is hide weigh+ f fifty-five to sixty-five p\nds1 obta9$ f c[s4 ,native c[hide 7light7 is c[hide weigh+ "u fifty-five p\nds4 ,br&$ c[hide is hide obta9$ f c[s t are br&$ on ! face ( ! hide4 ,butts is a t]m appli$ to ! "p ( ! hide rema9+ aft] cutt+ (f ! head1 %\ld]s1 & /rip ( ! belly4 ,colorado /e] hide is f ,colorado /e]s1 :i* are v light4 ,texas /e] hide comes 9 ?ree grades1 heavy1 light1 & extra light4 ,! heavy grade is v heavy because ! animal is all[$ to graze on ! pla9s4 ,t is ! reason :y x is heavi] ?an ! ,colorado /e] hide1 :i* is rais$ on ! f>m4 ,bull hide is divid$ into two classes1 ! regul> hide & ! br&$ grade4 ,! br&$ grade usually is "o c5t a p\nd less ?an ! regul>4 ,c\ntry hides are ( ?ree grades1 ,ohio ,buffs1 ,ohio ,ex41 & ,s\!rn4 ,! ,ohio ,buffs weigh f =ty to sixty p\nds4 ,! ,ohio ,ex4 weighs f tw5ty to =ty p\nds4 ,s\!rn hides h spots )\t hair & o!r blemi%es on !m1 due to ! /+ ( insects4 ,?is makes ! ,s\!rn hide inf]ior to ! ,ohio1 ,indiana1 ,mi*igan1 & ,*icago hides t h no su* blemi%es4 ,ohio ,butt hides are ! be/1 because 9 ,ohio !y kill a great _m "y calves1 :ile 9 ,*icago "y c[s 7t h calv$7 are kill$1 caus+ ! hide to be flanky4 ,! season ( ! ye> 9 :i* cattle are slaught]$ has consid]able influ5ce ^u bo? ! weight & condition ( ! hide4 ,dur+ ! w9t] mon?s1 by reason ( ! hair be+ long] & ?ick]1 ! hide is heavi]1 rang+ f sev5ty-five to eighty p\nds1 & gradually decreas+ 9 weight z ! season becomes w>m] & ! coat is %$1 until 9 ,june & ,july x weighs f sev5ty d[n to fifty-five p\nds1 ! hair !n be+ ?9 & %ort4 ,! be/ hides ( ! ye> are ,octob] hides1 & %ort-hair$ hides are bett] = lea!r purposes ?an long-hair$ ones4 ,a ?ick hide :i* is to be us$ = upp] lea!r is cut into sides be=e ! tann+ process is complet$4 ,?is is p]=m$ by pass+ x betwe5 roll]s :]e x comes 9 contact ) a %>p knife-edge1 :i* splits x into two or m %eets4 ,great c>e mu/ be ex]cis$ 9 cutt+ ! lea!r 9 ord] to h good 8splits0 7%eets ( lea!r74 ,a split f a heavy hide is n z good z a :ole ( a light] lea!r4 ,butts & backs are select$ f ! /\te/ & heavie/ oxhides4 ,! butt is =m$ by cutt+ (f ! head1 ! %\ld]1 & ! /rip ( ! belly4 ,! butt or back ( oxhide =ms ! /\te/ & heavie/ lea!r1 su* z is us$ = soles ( boots1 h>ness1 etc4 ,illu/ration3 ,gre5-,salt$ ,calfsk94 ,page #ab4 ,hides & sk9s are receiv$ at ! tann]y 9 "o ( ?ree conditions1 viz4 gre5-salt$1 dry1 or dry-salt$4 ,v few hides are receiv$ by tann]s 9 fre% or unsalt$ condition1 salt be+ necess>y to pres]ve !m f decay4 ,gre5-salt$ hides are ^? t h be5 salt$ 9 fre% condition1 ti$ up 9 bundles1 & %ipp$ to ! tann]4 ,dry hides are ^? t 7 tak5 f ! c>cass & dri$ )\t be+ salt$2 ^! are usually /iff & h>d4 ,dry-salt$ hides are hides t 7 heavily salt$ :ile !y 7 fre%1 & !n dri$4 ,! hides & sk9s t are receiv$ f ! slaught]h\ses ( ?is c\ntry are almo/ inv>iably gre5-salt$2 ^? f =eign c\ntries are gre5-salt$1 dry1 & dry-salt$4 ,x does n matt] 9 :at condition ! hides are receiv$ or ! k9d ( lea!r into :i* !y are to be tann$2 !y all require soak+ 9 wat] be=e any attempt is made to remove ! hair or to tan !m4 ,! object ( ! soak+ process1 z x is call$1 is to ?or\ghly s(t5 ! hides & to remove f !m all salt1 dirt1 blood1 etc4 ,ord9>y hides are usually soak$ f tw5ty-f\r to =ty-eight h\rs4 ,dry hides require mu* long]4 ,! wat] %\ld be *ang$ once or twice dur+ ! process1 s9ce dirty wat] may injure ! hides4 ,s(t wat] is bett] ?an h>d = ?is process4 ,:]e ! wat] is h>d1 x is cu/om>y = ! tann] to add a quantity ( borax to x to increase its cleans+ p[] & to ha/5 ! s(t5+ ( ! hides4 ,:5 dry hides h become s(t en\gh to b5d )\t crack+1 !y are put into a ma*9e & beat5 & roll$1 !n soak$ aga9 until !y are s(t & pliable4 ,x is v important t all ! salt & dirt are remov$ dur+ ! process ( soak+1 z !y injure ! quality ( ! lea!r if !y are n remov$ be=e ! hides are unhair$4 ,:5 ! soak+ process is complet$1 ! lumps ( fat & fle% t may h be5 left on by ! but*] are remov$ by h& or by a ma*9e1 & ! hides are !n 9 condition to be pass$ along into ! next process4 ,! p>ts t _c be made into lea!r1 su* z tails1 teats1 etc41 are trimm$ (f be=e ! hides are soak$4 ,l>ge hides are cut into two pieces or halves1 call$ 8sides10 aft] !y h be5 soak$4 ,= ! purpose ( tak+ ! hair f ! hides & sk9s1 lime1 sulphide ( sodium1 & r$ ars5ic are us$4 ,lime is sometimes us$ alone1 b usually "o ( ! o!r two *emicals is mix$ ) x4 ,! lime is dissolv$ 9 hot wat]1 a quantity ( ei!r sulphide ( sodium or r$ ars5ic is add$ to x1 & ! solution is !n mix$ ) wat] 9 a vat1 ! hides be+ imm]s$ 9 ?is liquor until ! hair c be easily remov$4 ,! action ( ! unhair+ liquor is to swell ! hides1 !n to dissolve ! p]i%able animal portion & loos5 ! hair s t x c be rubb$ or pull$ (f4 ,!re are sev]al diff]5t processes ( unhair+ ! hides4 ,ea* tann] uses ! process t w help to give ! lea!r ! qualities t x %\ld h1 su* z s(tness & pliability = %oe & glove lea!r1 or firmness & solidity = sole & belt+ lea!r4 ,?is is "o ( ! mo/ important 9 ! s]ies ( tann]y processes1 & if ! hides are n unhair$ prop]ly & n prep>$ = tann+ z !y %\ld be1 ! lea!r w n be "r :5 x is tann$ & f9i%$4 ,!re is also a process ( unhair+1 call$ 8sweat+10 :i* s(t5s ! hide & loos5s ! hair s t x c be scrap$ (f4 ,9 ?is process ! hides beg9 to decay be=e ! hair is loose2 x is !re=e a dang]\s process to use & mu/ be c>efully wat*$ or ! hides w be entirely spoil$4 ,sweat+ is nev] us$ = ! f9]1 s(t] k9ds ( lea!r4 ,x is appli$ *iefly to dry hides = sole1 lace1 & belt lea!r4 ,x is an old-fa%ion$ process & is n us$ z mu* n[adays z "s ye>s ago4 ,! pelts ( %eep are salt$ at ! slaught]h\ses & !n %ipp$ to ! tann]y4 ,"h !y are ?r[n into wat] & left to soak tw5ty-f\r h\rs to loos5 ! dirt & dissolve ! salt4 ,! pelts are next pass$ ?r\gh ma*9es t clean ! wool1 & any p>ticles ( fle% rema9+ on ! inn] or fle% side are remov$4 ,! pelts are !n 9 condition to h ! wool remov$4 ,z long z a %eepsk9 has ! wool ^u x1 x is call$ a pelt2 z soon z ! wool has be5 tak5 (f1 x is call$ a sk9 or a 8slat40 ,ea* pelt is spread out smoo?ly on a table ) ! wool d[n & ! inn] or fle% side up4 ,a mixture ( lime & sulphide ( sodium is next appli$ uni=mly ov] ! sk9 ) a bru%4 ,! pelt is !n fold$ up & plac$ 9 a pile ) o!rs4 ,! solution t 0 appli$ p5etrates ! sk9 & loos5s ! wool1 :i*1 at ! end ( tw5ty-f\r h\rs1 m or less1 c be easily pull$ (f ) ! h&s or rubb$ (f ) a dull in/rum5t or /ick4 ,! workman mu/ be c>eful n to get any ( ! solution on to ! wool1 z x dissolves x & makes x wor?less4 ,s9ce ! wool is valuable1 ! solution mu/ be appli$ to ! fle% side v c>efully s t x does no injury4 ,! wool t is remov$ f ! sk9s is call$ 8pull$ wool40 ,! slat is n[ ready to be lim$1 wa%$1 pickl$1 & tann$4 ,heavy sk9s are (t5 split into two %eets aft] !y h be5 lim$4 ,! "p f ! wool side is call$ a skiv]1 & t f ! fle% side is call$ a fle%]4 ,aft] ! sk9s h be5 lim$1 !y are bat$ & wa%$1 :i* makes !m s(t1 clean1 & :ite2 !y are !n put into a solution ( salt1 sulphuric acid1 & wat]1 call$ 8pickle10 & aft] a few h\rs !y are tak5 out1 dra9$1 & tann$4 ,l>ge quantities ( %eepsk9s are sold to tann]s 9 ! pickl$ condition by ^? :o make a bus9ess ( prep>+ su* sk9s & sell+ ! wool4 ,pickl$ sk9s c be kept an indef9ite l5g? ( "t )\t spoil+2 !y c also be dri$ & work$ out into a *eap :ite lea!r )\t any fur!r tann+ :atev]4 ,mo/ ( su* sk9s1 h[ev]1 are sold to tann]s1 :o tan !m into lea!r4 ,%eepsk9s conta9 consid]able grease1 :i* mu/ be remov$ be=e ! lea!r c be sold4 ,= "s processes ( tann+1 calfsk9s1 goatsk9s1 & cattle hides are also pickl$ ! same z %eepsk9s2 = o!r processes !y are n pickl$1 b are ?or\ghly bat$ or delim$1 wa%$1 & cleans$4 ,heavy hides are sometimes split out ( ! lime2 m frequ5tly1 h[ev]1 !y are n split until aft] !y h be5 tann$4 ,to capitulate1 ! prep>atory processes may be briefly describ$ z foll[s3-- ,soak+1 :i* dissolves ! salt1 removes ! dirt & makes ! hides s(t & comp>atively clean4 ,lim+ & unhair+1 :i* swell ! hides & dissolve ! p]i%able animal portion1 loos5 ! hair1 & put ! hides into prop] condition = tann+4 ,hides tann$ )\t lim+1 ev5 if ! hair is remov$ by "s *emical1 d n make pliable lea!r1 b are /iff & h>d4 ,bat+1 :i* removes ! lime f ! hides4 ,pickl+1 :i* helps 9 ! tann+ lat]1 & keeps ! hides & sk9s f spoil+ if !y are n tann$ at once4 ,! lumps ( fat & fle% t may be on ! hides are remov$ by ma*9]y or by plac+ ! hide ov] a beam & scrap+ x ) a knife4 ,! hair1 :5 x is loos5$ by ! lime1 is remov$ by a ma*9e or by h&4 ,,*apt] ,,?ree ,,processes ,,( ,,tann+ ,! v>i\s processes ( tann+ may be r\ghly divid$ into two classes1 vegetable *emical & m9]al *emical4 ,! fir/ class is (t5 spok5 ( 9 tann]ies simply z ! 8vegetable0 :ile ! second is call$ 8*emical0 process4 ,9 ! vegetable processes ! tann+ is accompli%$ by tann91 :i* is f\nd 9 v>i\s b>ks & woods ( trees & leaves ( plants4 ,9 ! s-call$ *emical processes ! tann+ is done ) m9]al salts & acids :i* produce an entirely diff]5t k9d ( lea!r f t procur$ by vegetable tann+4 ,!re is also a me?od ( tann+1 or1 m prop]ly speak+1 taw+1 9 :i* alum & salt are us$4 ,?is process makes :ite lea!r t is us$ = _m purposes2 x is also color$ & us$ 9 ! manufacture ( f9e gloves4 ,lea!r is also made by tann+ sk9s ) oil4 ,*amois sk9s are made 9 ?is way4 ,! mat]ials t are us$ to tan hides & sk9s act ^u ! hide fib]s 9 su* a way t ! hides are r5d]$ pro( aga9/ decay & become pliable & /rong4 ,!re are _m vegetable tans2 !y are us$ = sole lea!r1 upp] lea!r1 & color$ lea!r = num]\s purposes4 ,! b>k ( hemlock trees is "o ( ! pr9cipal tans4 ,! woods & b>ks ( oak1 *e/nut1 & quebra*o trees are (t5 us$4 ,palmetto roots yield a good tan4 ,l>ge quantities ( lea!r are treat$ ) gambi] & v>i\s o!r tann+ mat]ials t come f =eign c\ntries4 ,sumac leaves1 :i* are import$ f ,sicily1 conta9 tann9 t makes s(t lea!r suitable = hat sweatb&s1 susp5d] trimm+s1 etc4 ,sumac is also obta9$ f ! ,/ate ( ,virg9ia1 b ! =eign leaves conta9 m tann9 & make bett] lea!r ?an ! ,am]ican4 ,to a l>ge ext5t ! s-call$ *emical processes h supplant$ ! vegetable processes1 t is1 old tan b>k & sumac processes2 b 9 "s tann]ies bo? me?ods are us$ on diff]5t k9ds ( sk9s4 ,9 ! old b>k process ! tan b>k is gr\nd co>se & is !n treat$ 9 lea*es ) hot wat] until ! tann+ quality is drawn out4 ,! liquor s obta9$ is us$ at v>i\s /r5g?s z ne$$4 ,9 ! new] me?od ! tan liquor is displac$ by a solution ( potassium bi*romate1 :i* produces its results ) mu* less exp5diture ( "t4 ,:5 ! hides or sk9s are ready = ! tann+ process1 !y are put into a revolv+ drum1 kn[n z a 8p9:eel10 or into a pit 9 :i* are revolv+ paddles1 ) a dilute solution ( potassium di*romate or sodium di*romate1 acidifi$ ) hydro*loric or sulphuric acid4 ,if ! p9:eel is employ$1 x is revolv$ = sev5 h\rs or long]2 aft] :i* "t ! liquor is drawn (f & replac$ by an acidifi$ solution ( sodium ?iosulphate or bisulphite1 & !n ! revolution is cont9u$ sev]al h\rs long]4 ,if ! pit is us$1 ! sk9s are remov$ to ano!r drum conta9+ ! second solution1 & kept at re/ or ov]turn$ = a l p]iod4 ,9 remov+ ! sk9s f ! p9:eel or vat1 & 9 h&l+ !m aft] treatm5t ) lime = ! loos5+ ( ! hair1 ! h&s & arms ( ! workm5 are s]i\sly injur$1 becom+ raw if n protect$ by rubb] gloves2 ev5 ) gloves x is difficult to prev5t injury1 & 9 "s e/abli%m5ts ! workm5 are reliev$ by ! sub/itution ( a s+le-ba? process1 9 :i* ! liquor is less h>mful to ! sk94 ,illu/ration3 ,tann+ ,process ,%[+ ! vats1 ! unhair+ & lim+ processes4 ,page #bd4 ,! hides are !n remov$ f ! pits1 wa%$ & bru%$1 foll[$ by sl[ dry+ 9 ! air4 ,:5 p>tly dri$1 !y are plac$ 9 a pile & cov]$ until heat+ is induc$4 ,!y are !n damp5$ & roll$ ) brass roll]s to give ! lea!r solidity4 ,sole lea!r is oil$ b little4 ,weight is increas$ by add+ glucose & salt4 ,v>i\s rapid processes ( tann+ h be5 devis$ 9 :i* ! hides are susp5d$ 9 /rong liquors or are tann$ 9 l>ge revolv+ drums4 ,x is claim$ t ?is ha/5s ! process1 b ! product has be5 criticiz$ z lack+ sub/ance or be+ brittle4 ,*rome tannage has be5 *iefly develop$ 9 ?is c\ntry dur+ ! la/ tw5ty ye>s & is n[ 9 g5]al use4 ,x consi/s 9 ?r[+ an insoluble *romium hydroxide or oxide on ! fib]s ( a sk9 :i* has be5 impregnat$ ) a soluble *romium salt--potassium bi*romate4 ,o!r salts l basic *romium *loride1 *romium *romate1 & *romic alum are also us$4 ,! hydro*loric or sulphuric acid acts by sett+ free *romic acid4 ,aft] sev]al h\rs1 ! sk9 %[s a uni=m yell[ :5 cut ?r\gh its ?icke/ "p4 ,x is !n dra9$ & ! sk9 work$ 9 a solution ( sodium bisulphite & m9]al acid 7to free sulphur dioxide74 ,! *romic acid is absorb$ by ! fib] & lat] r$uc$ by sulphur dioxide4 ,9 ! mak+ ( *rome black lea!r ea* tann] has 8 own me?od4 ,contr>y to ! g5]al belief1 !re are _m diff]5t me?ods ( *rome tannage4 ,no two tann]ies employ j ! same process4 ,tann]s ( *rome lea!r seek to produce lea!r suitable = ! p>ticul> dem&s made ^u x by ! peculi>ities or *>act]i/ics ( ! v>y+ seasons4 ,summ] %oes require a cool1 light lea!r2 at o!r times a heavi] tannage is ess5tial1 ) "s call = a practically wat]pro( product4 ,all lea!rs1 :e!r vegetable-or *rome-tann$1 mu/ be 8fat liquor$40 ,t is to say1 a c]ta9 am\nt ( fatty mat]ial mu/ be put into ! sk9 9 ord] t x may be mell[1 workable1 & s]viceable4 ,?is is v ess5tial 9 produc+ calf lea!r4 ,fat liquors usually conta9 oil & soap1 :i* h be5 boil$ 9 wat] & made into a ?9 liquor4 ,! lea!r is put into a drum ) ! hot fat liquor2 ! drum is set 9 motion1 & z x revolves ! lea!r tumbles ab\t 9 ! drum & absorbs ! oil & soap f ! wat]4 ,x is ! fat liquor t makes ! lea!r s(t & /rong4 ,lea!r us$ 9 %oes is divid$ into two classes3 sole lea!r & upp] lea!r4 ,sole lea!r is a heavy1 solid1 /iff lea!r & may be b5t )\t crack+4 ,x is ! f\ndation ( ! %oe1 & !re=e %\ld be ( ! be/ mat]ial4 ,! hides ( bulls & ox5 yield ! be/ lea!r = ?is purpose4 ,! hide t is tann$ = sole lea!r is soak$ = sev]al days 9 a weak solution 7:i* is gradually made /rong]7 ( oak or hemlock tan made f ! b>k4 ,oak-tann$ hide is pref]r$ & may be kn[n by its light color4 ,a *emical *ange takes place 9 ! fib] ( ! hide4 ,?is is a high-grade tannage1 & is di/+ui%$ pr9cipally by its f9e fib]s & close1 compact texture4 ,oak sole lea!r1 by reason ( its t\gh "*1 & its close1 fibr\s texture1 resi/s wat] & w we> well d[n be=e crack+4 ,x is by _m consid]$ bett] ?an o!r lea!r = flexible-sole %oes1 requir+ wat]pro( qualities4 ,sole lea!r is divid$ into ?ree classes accord+ to ! tann+--oak1 hemlock1 & union4 ,illu/ration3 ,tann+ ,process ,%[+ ! rotat+ drums4 ,see page #bd4 ,oak tann+ is z foll[s3 ! hides are hung 9 pits conta9+ weak or ne>ly sp5t liquors f a previ\s tann+1 & agitat$ s z to take up tann9 ev5ly4 ,/rong liquor w\ld h>d5 ! surface s z to prev5t ?or\gh p5etration into ! int]ior ( ! hides4 ,aft] t5 or twelve days1 ! hides are tak5 out & laid away 9 fre% tan & /rong] liquor4 ,?is process is repeat$ z (t5 z necess>y = eight to t5 mon?s4 ,at ! end ( ?is "t ! hide has absorb$ all ( ! tann9 :i* x w take up4 ,hemlock tann+ is simil> to ! oak tann+ 9 process4 ,! hemlock tan is a r$ %ade4 ,hemlock produces a v h>d & inflexible lea!r4 ,x is modifi$ by use ( blea*+ mat]ials :i* are appli$ to ! lea!r aft] be+ tann$4 ,x is sold 9 sides )\t be+ trimm$1 :ile ! oak is sold 9 backs1 ) belly & head trimm$ (f4 ,hemlock lea!r is us$ ext5sively & almo/ pr9cipally = m5's & boys' /iff-sol$1 heavy %oes1 :]e no flexibility is requir$ or expect$4 ,its pr9cipal desirable quality is its resi/ance to trituration1 or be+ gr\nd to a p[d]1 & its use 9 m5's & boys' pegg$1 nail$1 or /&>d screw %oes is n 9 any way objectionable to ! we>]4 ,9 fact1 = ?is class ( %oes1 x is probably ! be/ lea!r t c be us$4 ,b :5 hemlock is us$ 9 m5's & boys' ,goodye> welt %oes1 :]e a flexible bottom is expect$ & requir$1 x g5]ally does n give good results4 ,x _c satisfactorily resi/ ! con/ant flex+ to :i* x is subject$1 & aft] ! sole is worn half ?r\gh1 ! con/ant b5d+ causes x to crack crosswise4 ,on ?is acc\nt x becomes l a sieve1 & has no p[] ( resi/ance 9 wat]1 & !re=e x is n at all suit$ to flexible-bottom$ %oes4 ,9 8union-tann$0 hides1 bo? oak & hemlock are us$ & ! result is a compromise 9 bo? color & quality4 ,?is tan 0 fir/ us$ ab\t fifty ye>s ago4 ,tw5ty-five ye>s ago ! union lea!r tann]s began to exp]im5t ) blea*+ mat]ials to avoid ! use ( oak b>k1 :i* 0 becom+ sc>ce & high pric$1 & ev5tually develop$ a sy/em ( tann+ union lea!r ) hemlock or k9dr$ tann+ ag5ts1 exclud+ oak4 ,! r$ color & ! h>d texture 7 modifi$ by blea*+ ! lea!r to ! desir$ color & texture4 ,?is produces lea!r :i* has n ! f9e1 close tannage ( g5u9e oak lea!r & at ! same "t lacks ! compact1 h>d "* ( hemlock lea!r4 ,union lea!r produc$ 9 ?is mann] is a sort ( mongrel or hybrid lea!r1 be+ nei!r oak nor hemlock4 ,on acc\nt ( its economy 9 cutt+ qualities1 h[ev]1 x is l>gely us$ 9 ! manufacture ( m$ium-pric$ %oes :]e a c]ta9 degree ( flexibility is requir$ 9 ! sole4 ,?is is p>ticul>ly true ( wom5's %oes4 ,union lea!r is sold l>gely 9 backs & trimm$ ! same z oak1 ?\gh n s closely4 ,sole lea!r is also made n[adays by tann+ ! hides by ! *rome or *emical process4 ,?is lea!r is v durable & pliable & is us$ on a?letic & sport+ %oes4 ,x has a light gre5 color & is mu* light] 9 weight ?an ! oak or hemlock lea!r4 ,_m k9ds ( hide are us$ = sole lea!r4 ,?is c\ntry does n produce ne>ly en\gh hides = ! dem&1 & great quantities are import$ f abroad1 al?\gh mo/ ( ! import$ hides come f ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,import$ hides are divid$ into two g5]al classes1 dry hides & gre5-salt$ hides4 ,dry hides are ( two k9ds1 ! dry 8fl9t10 :i* are dri$ c>efully aft] be+ tak5 f ! animal & cur$ )\t salt4 ,^! g5]ally make good lea!r1 al?\gh if sunburnt1 ! lea!r is n /rong4 8,dry-salt$ hides0 are salt$ & cur$ to a dry /ate4 ,dry hides ( bo? k9ds are us$ = hemlock lea!r only1 al?\gh all hemlock lea!r is n made f dry hides4 ,gre5-salt$ hides are us$ 9 mak+ oak-tann$ lea!r z well z hemlock1 & ^? us$ by ,unit$ ,/ates tann]s come l>gely f dome/ic po9ts2 b !re is a v>iable am\nt import$ ea* ye> f abroad1 pr9cipally f ,europe & ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,gre5-salt$ hides are ( two g5]al classes1 ^? br&$ & ^? free ( br&s4 ,c[ & /e] hides ( ! br&$ type are us$ by tann]s ( oak & union lea!r4 ,^? n br&$ are us$ m l>gely = belt+ & uphol/]+ lea!rs1 a small "p f9d+ _! way into hemlock lea!r4 ,sole lea!r remnants1 /rictly speak+1 include su* a wide v>iety ( items t x is difficult to cov] !m all4 ,few p1 h[ev]1 realize ! big range ( usefulness ( ?is class ( /ock4 ,:ile n exactly a by-product1 remnants are (t5 class$ z su*4 ,"u ! class ( sole lea!r remnants are includ$ sole lea!r (fal1 su* z heads1 bellies1 %\ld]s1 %anks1 %9s1 m5's heel+1 m5's half heel+1 m5's & wom5's ?ree-& f\r-piece heel+1 etc4 ,/ock t _c be us$ 9 ! %oe bus9ess goes into ! *emical & f]tiliz] trade1 among o!r outlets4 ,by a special acid process ( burn+ ?is /ock1 ammonia is d]iv$ f x1 :i* goes into f]tiliz]2 & ano!r by-product is sulphuric acid = ! *emical trade4 ,! am\nt ( ammonia obta9$ is small1 be+ ab\t sev5 p] c5t ( ammonia to a ton ( sole lea!r scrap4 ,?is is mix$ ) f]tiliz] & sold mo/ly 9 ! ,s\!rn ,/ates1 & to a small ext5t 9 ! ,we/1 !re be+ a law 9 _m ( ! ,we/]n ,/ates aga9/ ! use ( f]tiliz] made f lea!r products1 on acc\nt ( its l[ grade4 ,illu/ration3 ,sole ,lea!r ,(fal ,%[+ bellies1 %\ld]s1 etc4 ,page #ce4 ,9 ! disposition ( (fal1 heads are us$ = taps1 top lifts1 & "u lifts4 ,%\ld]s are us$ = outsoles & inn] soles1 :ile bellies are us$ = m$ium to heavy taps & c\nt]s4 ,lightweight bellies & %anks are utiliz$ = mak+ box toes & c\nt]s4 ,%anks are also us$ = taps & "u lifts4 ,?is /ock is solid & sub/antial & well suit$ = ^! purposes4 ,! bellies1 be+ flexible1 are ! be/ "p ( ! hide obta9able = inn] soles4 ,9 cutt+ out soles1 ! manufactur] accumulates a consid]able quantity ( solid or c5t] pieces1 :i* are us$ = small top lifts1 also = 8,cuban0 tops1 !reby us+ up ! bulk ( ! small heavy scrap t ord9>ily w\ld be sold = piec$ heel+4 ,!re is also a dem& = simil> /ock f ! h>dw>e trade1 :]e x is us$ = mak+ mallet & tool h&les1 also = wagon & c>riage wa%]s4 ,l>ge quantities ( m5's & wom5's heel+ & half heel+ g to ,engl&1 :]e x is cut up by heel manufactur]s into lifts & sectional lifts = ! ,engli% trade2 !re be+ a %ortage ( ?is class ( (fal !re4 ,! %oe manufactur]1 aft] cutt+ 8 soles & taps1 is oblig$ to skive !m to get ! p>ticul> iron he ne$s4 ,?is leaves :at is kn[n z a 8fle% sole %ape10 also a 8tap %ape40 ,^! skiv+s are pa/$ toge!r by ano!r class ( trade & aga9 us$ = inn] sol+ & taps 9 ! *eap] grades ( %oes4 ,small] skiv+s1 or wa/e1 aft] sort+ out ! sole & tap %apes1 are sold to ! lea!r bo>d trade4 ,?is ev5tually comes back to ! %oe trade 9 ! %ape ( lea!r bo>d & is cut into heel lifts4 ,! wa/e aft] cutt+ heel lifts is aga9 resold to ! lea!r bo>d trade & makes ano!r r\nd trip to ! %oe manufactur]4 ,?is illu/ration1 z well z _m o!rs 9 ! lea!r remnant bus9ess1 demon/rates ! sci5tific pr9ciple t no?+ is ev] entirely lo/4 ,9 reg>d to piec$ heel lifts1 ^! are made 9 ei!r two1 ?ree1 or f\r sections4 ,?is ref]s to :at are kn[n z sectional heel lifts4 ,scrap lea!r is also us$ = %ank+ = ! ,european trade4 ,soles & taps1 kn[n z rejects1 t is1 ^? ?r[n out by ! high-grade trade1 are sold to manufactur]s ( *eap] l9es4 ,a %oe manufactur] cutt+ 8 own soles & buy+ sole lea!r 9 sides1 aft] sort+ out ! soles suit$ to 8 own requirem5ts1 w sell :at he _c use to remnant deal]s1 :o 9 turn re-sell !m to %oe manufactur]s requir+ t p>ticul> class ( /ock4 ,! scrap lea!r1 or remnant deal]1 ?us =ms a useful l9k 9 ! *a9 ( di/ribution1 furni%+ a m>ket :]e %oe & lea!r manufactur]s may dispose ( _! surplus products to be/ advantage1 & provid+ a s\rce ( supply = buy]s :o wi% any p>ticul> article to suit _! individual ne$s4 ,upp] or dress$ lea!r is made f kips or l>ge calfsk9s4 ,x is tann$ & f9i%$ l all o!r =ms ( lea!r by v>iations ( ! =ego+ process4 ,?ick hides are (t5 split ?9 by ma*9]y1 & ! p>ts reta9$ & f9i%$ sep>ately4 ,! p>ts ( ! lea!r f ! hair side are mo/ valuable & are call$ 8gra90 lea!r2 ! inn] p>ts or 8fle% splits0 are made into a v>iety ( diff]5t k9ds ( lea!r by wax+1 oil+1 & poli%+4 ,x is f9i%$ by sc\r+ ) bru%es & !n rubb$ ) a piece ( glass1 :i* removes creases & wr9kles & /ret*es ! lea!r4 ,!n x is /uff$ ) a mixture ( oil1 soap1 & tall[1 :i* is work$ into x by roll+4 ,v>i\s f9i%es are giv5 to lea!r1 su* z seal gra91 buff1 glove gra91 oil gra91 sat9 calf1 russet1 pla9 %oe1 etc4 ,upp] lea!rs are black$ by rubb+ ) a mixture ( lampblack & oil or tall[1 or ) a solution ( copp]as & logwood4 ,no tann+ process1 no matt] h[ good or ?or\gh1 c make firm1 s]viceable1 we>-resi/+ lea!r out ( all portions ( any hide1 because nature made "s p>ts ( e hide por\s1 spongy1 & lack+ 9 fibr\s /r5g?4 ,calfsk9s us$ by tann]s are ( sev]al classes4 ,am]ican calfsk9s1 tak5 (f 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates & ,canada1 are usually sold gre5 pelt$4 ,f>m]s raise only a small fraction ( ! calves born4 ,ea* c[ mu/ produce a calf 9 ord] to insure a maximum fl[ ( milk4 ,mo/ ( ! f>m]s keep c[s to produce milk1 h5ce !y sell ! "y calves = veal & use _! sk9s = high-grade calf lea!r4 ,9 ,european c\ntries f>m]s fatt5 _! calves be=e sell+ !m 9 ord] to get a high] price = ! veal4 ,! sk9 is n s valuable = lea!r z ! sk9 f y\ng] calves1 & x is us$ = l[]-value lea!rs4 ,calfsk9 is n split4 ,a heavi] weight sk9 might be4 ,x is %av$ to a uni=m ?ickness4 ,calf lea!r is divid$ into ! foll[+ classes1 dep5d+ ^u ! f9i% ( ! lea!r3-- ,bo>d$ calf 7made 9 bo? *rome & b>k tannage74 ,wax calf1 f9i%$ on ! fle% side ) a waxy1 h>d surface4 ,box calf is a propriet>y "n4 ,x is bo>d$--rubb$ ) a bo>d to raise ! gra94 ,x is kn[n by m9ute1 squ>elike l9es4 ,mat calf is a dull-f9i%$ calfsk91 us$ m 9 topp+4 ,su$e calf is f9i%$ on fle% side4 ,mo/ makes ( su$e calf are *rom$1 al?\gh !re are "s vegetable4 ,/orm calf is a heavy sk91 f9i%$ = w9t] we>4 ,consid]able oil is us$ 9 f9i%+4 ,fr5* calf is f9i%$ on fle% side4 ,dry hides are obta9$ f ,bu5os ,ayres1 :]e ! cattle are rais$ on ! pla9s4 ,?is city exports a l>ge quantity ( hides1 dry1 salt$1 & cur$ by smok+4 ,! hides ( c[s g5]ally yield inf]ior gra9 lea!r2 b ,s\? ,am]ican c[hides may be work$ = light sole lea!r4 ,calves' hides are ?9n]1 b :5 well tann$1 curri$1 & dress$1 !y yield a v s(t & supple lea!r = boots & %oes4 ,!y are f9i%$ ) wax & oil on ! fle% side1 & c also be f9i%$ on ! hair 7gra9 ( sk974 ,calves' sk9 7gre5 salt$74 ,p>is ,city calfsk9s4 ,^! are obta9$ 9 ?ree grades--light1 m$ium1 & heavy4 ,light grades run f f\r to five1 or sev5 to eight p\nds2 m$ium grades run f sev5 to n9e p\nds2 heavy grades run f n9e to twelve p\nds4 ,pat5t lea!r may be made f colt1 calf1 or kid sk94 ,coltsk9 is ! sk9 ( "y horses1 or split sk9s ( mature horses4 ,pat5t colt & kid are us$ = ! mo/ "p 9 ! m$ium f9e grades1 & pat5t side 7c[hide7 is us$ 9 ! m$ium & *eap] grades4 ,*rome tann$ are us$ entirely 9 ! manufacture ( pat5t lea!r4 ,pat5t lea!r1 z x appe>s 9 %oes1 may be describ$ ei!r z v>ni%$ lea!r1 coltsk91 or kid1 & sometimes ! ,fr5* use calfsk94 ,! process is l>gely a secret "o1 al?\gh !re is no long] any pat5t on ! pr9ciple ( ! same4 ,x is made by %av+ ! sk9s on ! fle% side or hair side to a uni=m ?ickness4 ,!n x is de-greas$ to put ! sk9 9 condition to receive ! f9i% & protect ! same f peel+ (f4 ,successive coats ( liquid black v>ni% are appli$1 ! fir/ coats be+ dri$ & rubb$ d[n1 s z to "w ! liquid ?or\ghly into ! fib]s ( ! lea!r4 ,! la/ coat is appli$ ) a bru%1 & bak$ to f "o hundr$ & tw5ty to "o hundr$ & =ty degrees ,fahr5heit = ?irty-six h\rs & !n all[$ to dry 9 direct sunlight = f six to t5 h\rs1 :i* seems to be ess5tial to remove ! /icky feel+4 ,v>i\s +r$i5ts are us$ 9 mak+ ! diff]5t v>ni%es1 ! fir/ coat+ consi/+ ( naph?a1 wood alcohol1 amyl acetate1 etc4 ,! black v>ni%es consi/ ( l9se$ oil & v>i\s o!r mixtures1 heat$ 9 iron kettles4 ,! f9al coat+ is a naph?a prep>ation resembl+ japann+ mat]ial4 ,! hide is /ret*$ on a frame dur+ ! v>ni%+ op]ations4 ,x is almo/ impossible to tell ! diff]5ce 9 quality ( %9y lea!r by appe>ance1 al?\gh 9 g5]al ! lea!r on :i* ! gra9 %[s ?r\gh ! v>ni% w prove m s]viceable ?an t on :i* ! f9i% is s ?ick z to hide ! gra94 ,great c>e mu/ be ex]cis$ 9 resew+ pat5t lea!r %oes t h be5 expos$ dur+ ! cold wea!r1 z ! cold has a t5d5cy to freeze ! f9i%4 ,pat5t lea!r1 l all v>ni%$ coat+s1 is liable to crack4 ,no "o c gu>antee x n to d s4 ,! kid pat5t lea!r is m ela/ic & por\s ?an o!r k9ds4 ,! s]i\s objection to ! use ( pat5t lea!r = a %oe is its air-tightness4 ,?is makes x bo? unhygi5ic & uncom=table4 ,! kid pat5t lea!r is ! only pat5t lea!r t has n ?is objection4 ,kid is a t]m appli$ to %oe lea!r made f ! sk9s ( mature goats4 ,! sk9 ( ! "y goat or kid is made into ! ?91 flexible lea!r us$ = kid gloves1 :i* is too delicate = g5]al use 9 %oes4 ,! goats f :i* come ! supply ( lea!r us$ 9 ?is c\ntry = wom5's & *ildr5's f9e %oes are n ! common1 dome/icat$ k9d kn[n 9 ?is c\ntry1 b are wild goats or alli$ species p>tially dome/icat$1 & are f\nd 9 ! hill regions ( ,india1 ! m\nta9s ( ,europe1 portions ( ,s\? ,am]ica1 etc4 ,!re are ab\t sixty-eight recogniz$ k9ds ( goatsk9s t are import$ f all ov] ! _w4 ,! ,brazilian1 ,bu5os ,ayres1 ,&ean1 ,mexican1 ,fr5*1 ,russian1 ,indian1 & ,*9ese are a few ( ! _m k9ds t are kn[n z su*4 ,ea* p>ticul> species ( goat hide possesses its own peculi>ities ( texture4 ,! ?ickness & gra9 diff] accord+ to ! environm5t 9 :i* ! animal has be5 rais$4 ,x is peculi> t ^? rais$ 9 cold climates d n h z ?ick sk9s z ^? rais$ 9 w>m] climates1 = ! long1 ?ick hair app>5tly takes ! /r5g?4 ,we may wond] :]e all ! sk9s come f t are made up into glaz$ kid1 mat kid1 & su$e1 at ! rate ( sev]al ?\s& doz5 e day4 ,! great proportion ( ! sk9s are goatsk9s4 ,^! are almo/ all import$ f abroad1 :]e ! animals are slaught]$ & dispos$ ( mu* ! same z we dispose ( beef & veal "h4 ,%eepsk9s & c>b>ettas1 ! hides ( animals t are a cross betwe5 %eep & goats1 are also us$4 ,! f9] grades ( kid & goatsk9s :i* are tann$ 9 l>ge quantities 9 ,new ,engl&1 come f ! ,f> ,ea/4 ,9 ,*9a !re are two great ports f :i* sk9s are %ipp$1 ,ti5ts9 & ,%anghai4 ,back 9 ! int]ior1 />t+ f a po9t ab\t twelve hundr$ miles f ! sea1 collectors make _! r\nds twice a ye>4 ,! bre$] ( goats kills 8 flock j be=e ! collector is due1 sk9s ! animals on ! hillside1 pres]ves ! meat = food1 & ) ! kidsk9s1 :i* h be5 p>tly dri$1 wrapp$ 9 a bundle c>ri$ ^u ! back1 or ^u a pack animal1 ! bre$] makes 8 way to ! /ation4 ,x may be t !re are a half hundr$ bre$]s await+ ! com+ ( ! collector & he pays !m ! m>ket price = ! sk9s4 ,:5ev] ! collector has a suffici5t supply to make x pr(itable to %ip1 he bales ! sk9s & !n s5ds !m ov] ! ?\s& mile j\rney along ! riv] to ! seaport4 ,f ,ti5ts9 or ,%anghai !y are tak5 by tramp /eam]s1 :i* rea* ,ea/]n ports by way ( ! ,suez ,canal1 & on ! trip ! /eam]s make sev]al ports1 s t x is f six to t5 weeks be=e ! sk9s rea* ,am]ica4 ,ano!r me?od ( import+ is to h ! raw mat]ial %ipp$ across ! ,pacific & !n transf]r$ to a railroad1 b ! diff]5ce 9 co/ to ! manufactur] is s great t x is unpr(itable4 ,! ,*9a goatsk9s are rat$ z among ! f9e/ 9 ! _w & :5 tann$ !y make ! highe/-grade %oe4 ,!n !re are mo*a sk9s1 :i* come f ,tripoli1 ,arabia1 & ,nor!rn ,africa4 ,9 ^? places ! me?od ( collection is practically ! same z 9 ,*9a4 ,! two be/-kn[n grades are ! ,hodi$a & ! ,b5ghazi4 ,!y d]ive _! designations f ! export+ cities4 ,hodi$a is locat$ 9 ! s\?we/]n "p ( ,arabia on ! ,r$ ,sea1 :ile ,b5ghazi is 9 ,b>ca1 "o ( ! prov9ces ( ,tripoli4 ,o!r goatsk9s are produc$ 9 ,india & ,russia1 & millions ( sk9s are export$ annually f ,bombay1 ,madras1 & ,calcutta4 ,^! sk9s are n br\ght direct to ,am]ica1 b are trans%ipp$ at ,m>seilles or ,london4 ,! jobb]s 9 ,europe or ,india occupy r a unique position1 = accord+ to _! practice x is almo/ impossible = !m to suff] f9ancial losses 9 deal+ ) an ,am]ican tann]4 ,! latt]1 :5 he wi%es to arrange = 8 ye>'s supply ( raw mat]ial1 negotiates ) an ag5t 9 ,bo/on1 ) :om he signs a contract = s _m sk9s4 ,!n x is necess>y = ! tann] to ei!r pur*ase ) money equal to ! face value or secure by loans lett]s ( cr$it f ,bo/on bank+ h\ses :i* h ,european connections4 ,be=e ! sk9s are export$1 ! jobb] has 8 money f ! ,european bank+ conc]ns & ! bills ( lad+ are =w>d$ to ! ,bo/on bank]s1 :o turn !m ov] to ! tann]s1 &1 :5 ! occasion requires1 obta9 f ! tann]s :at is kn[n z a de$ ( tru/4 ,all goatsk9s are tann$ by ! same *rome tann+ process1 :e!r ! f9i% is to be glaz$ or mat4 ,! proportions ( *emicals v>y accord+ to ! texture ( ! sk91 & accord+ to ! gra94 ,! process ( tann+ is quick] ?an ! tann+ ( heavi] hides1 & all v>ieties ( tannage are us$1 ! *rome me?ods hav+ come into v g5]al use4 ,!re are _m k9ds ( f9i% giv51 su* z glaz$1 dull1 mat1 pat5t1 etc4 ,"o quality t di/+ui%es goat lea!r1 ! 8kid0 ( %oemak+1 is ! fact t ! fib]s ( ! sk9 are int]lac$ & int]lock$ 9 all directions4 ,! f9i%$ sk9s z !y come f ! tann]y1 by :atev] process !y may be put ?r\gh1 are sort$ = size & quality1 a numb] ( grades be+ made4 ,in/ead ( ripp+ /raight ?r\gh1 l a piece ( clo?1 or splitt+ ap>t 9 lay]s1 z %eepsk9 w d :5 made into lea!r1 ! kid holds toge!r firmly 9 all directions4 ,glaz$ kid is color$ aft] x is tann$ by subm]g+ x 9 ! color1 a v important process4 ,! glossy surface is obta9$ by 8/rik+0 or burni%+ on ! gra9 side4 ,x is made 9 black & colors1 p>ticul>ly tan1 & is kn[n by ab\t z _m names z !re are manufactur]s ( x4 ,glaz$ kid is us$ 9 ! upp]s ( %oes1 mak+ a f9e1 s(t %oe t is p>ticul>ly com=table 9 w>m wea!r1 & is said to prev5t cold feet 9 w9t]1 ow+ to unre/rict$ circulation4 ,mat kid is a s(t1 dull black kid1 ! s(tness be+ ! result ( treatm5t ) beeswax or olive oil4 ,x is f9i%$ on ! gra9 side ! same z glaz$ kid1 & is us$ pr9cipally = %oe topp+s4 ,x is v simil> 9 appe>ance to mat calf & is (t5 us$ 9 pref]5ce to x1 z x is ( mu* light] weight1 & ab\t z /rong4 ,su$e kid is n tann$1 b is subject$ to a fe$+ process 9 an egg solution1 call$ 8taw+10 to make x s(t & pliable4 ,! sk9 is /ret*$ & ! color is appli$ by 8bru%+0 7) a bru%74 ,! color does n p]meate ! sk91 b is m]ely on ! surface4 ,su$es are made f c>b>ettas & split %eepsk9s4 ,su$es are us$ v ext5sively 9 mak+ slipp]s1 & come 9 a great v>iety ( colors4 ,a ca/or kid is a ,p]sian lambsk9 f9i%$ ! same z a su$e1 & is us$ 9 mak+ v s(t1 f9e-appe>+ lea!r--l glove lea!r4 ,! sk9 is ( su* a v light weight t x has to be 8back$ up0 be=e be+ made into %oes4 ,fancy lea!rs are us$ ext5sively = topp+s ( %oes hav+ pat5t lea!r vamps4 ,fac+s are select$ f fancy lea!rs to make ! inside ( a %oe attractive & to increase its we>+ quality4 ,lea!rs ( dull or glaz$ f9i% are us$ 9 typical %oe colors4 ,miscellane\s k9ds ( kids are z foll[s3-- ,a4 ,kang>oo ,b4 ,bucksk9 ,c4 ,%eepsk9 ,d4 ,*amois ,e4 ,cordovan ,f4 ,splits a4 ,seal ,gra9 b4 ,buff c4 ,oil ,gra9 d4 ,sat9 ,calf ,g4 ,enamel ,h4 ,sides ,kang>oo is ! sk9 ( ! animal ( t "n4 ,bucksk9 is ! sk9 ( c]ta9 de]4 ,%eepsk9 is ! sk9 ( ! famili> dome/ic %eep4 ,*amois is ! sk9 ( ! animal ( t "n & by c\rtesy ! specially treat$ sk9s ( c]ta9 dome/ic animals4 ,x is a simple matt] to recognize a kid-sk9 among ! v>i\s k9ds ( upp] lea!r1 because ( its v light weight & pliability4 ,dur+ ! w9t]1 lea!r1 9 dry+1 is apt to become froz51 especially :]e no well-equipp$ dry+ l(t is provid$4 ,su* lea!r becomes weak & limp if ?aw$ out too rapidly4 ,9 freez+1 ! wat] 9 ! hides :i* h be5 hung up to dry is =c$ out & /ret*es ap>t ! hide fib]4 ,! wett] ! hides1 !re=e1 ! m demoraliz$ !y w be by ! fro/4 ,! treatm5t ( ru%+ ! froz5 lea!r into a w>m room is inadvisable2 ! be/ me?od is to all[ ! hides to hang z !y 7 & to tightly close all op5+s to ! outside air4 ,9 case ?is is impossible1 x is be/ to place ! lea!r 9 a heap1 9 a room :]e ! temp]ature w n fall bel[ ! freez+ po9t1 & to cov] x ) a clo?4 ,9 case ! lea!r rolls up1 x %\ld be moi/5$ be=e ! roll becomes great] ?an is cu/om>y2 x w ?us become firm] ?r\gh\t4 ,"s upp] lea!r & especially %eepsk9s = l9+ purposes are aid$ by freez+1 s9ce ! lea!r becomes :ite & plump & also is ( a bright color1 ?\gh ! durability is some:at less5$4 ,! popul>ity ( :ite lea!r = %oes is increas+ wond]fully4 ,!re is good reason = ?is4 ,! mod]n :ite %oes h a /yli% & fa%ionable appe>ance :i* has won ! he>ts ( wom5 ( all ages & conditions1 & :5 !y want a ?+1 !re is always al]tness 9 supply+ x4 ,! new love = :ite %oes is int]e/+ to trace4 ,ye>s ago :ite lea!r = %oes 0 made pr9cipally f de]sk9s4 ,b ?is lea!r1 :ile attractive :5 new1 w\ld /ret* soon aft] be+ worn1 & take on a yell[i% t+e4 ,besides1 ! price ( su* %oes 0 v high1 & x is n surpris+ t !y became supplant$ by ! *eap]1 b attractive & useful1 :ite canvas %oes1 :i* became quick sell]s dur+ ! season4 ,x is greatly to ! cr$it ( our tann]s t !y h be5 able to p]fect & put on ! m>ket a :ite lea!r = %oes :i* answ]s all requirem5ts satisfactorily4 ,?is lea!r is made f c[hides2 ! :ite color w n fade nor turn yell[1 & be/ ( all1 ! lea!r c be easily clean$ & made to look good z new4 ,ano!r advantage is t su* lea!rs c be us$ 9 %oes t sell at popul> prices4 ,!re are _m common1 comm]cial grades ( upp] lea!r4 ,will[ calf is a f9e1 s(t1 *rome tannage ( calfsk94 ,x is sold 9 ?ree colors1 light tan1 ox blood1 & olive-br[n4 ,! di/+ui%+ features ( ?is lea!r are its durability & ! fact t x always keeps s(t & pliable4 ,x is adapt$ to ! highe/ quality ( m5's & wom5's %oes4 ,box calf is a /orm-calf lea!r ( highe/ quality4 ,x is a wat]pro(1 *rome tannage 9 a m$ium tan color1 ) a dull f9i%4 ,?is is ! be/ lea!r obta9able = r\gh1 outdoor we>1 walk+ %oes1 hunt+ boots1 etc4 ,x is also adapt$ to m5's & wom5's v f9e footwe>4 ,!re is a gr[+ dem& = ?is k9d ( %oe4 ,9 ! upp]s ( ! be/ /orm %oes y w always f9d box calf4 ,royal kid is a black *rome calfsk91 dull f9i%$ ) a smoo?1 natural gra9 ( f9e texture1 s(t & pliable4 ,x is us$ = vamps & :ole %oes ( ! highe/ grades = m5 & wom51 & is a v popul> mat]ial = ! fall & w9t] %oe4 ,! desirable qualities ( f9e calf lea!r are mak+ ! dem& = x gr[ fa/] ?an ! supply ( raw mat]ial increases4 ,tan royal is a tan color1 *rome calf lea!r1 smoo? f9i%1 f9e gra91 excell5t cutt+ qualities1 uni=m1 ( m$ium ri* tan %ades4 ,tan calf lea!r is v attractive & ! tan %oe is n[ a /aple product4 ,cadet kid is a bright black1 smoo?-f9i%$1 *rome calfsk9 = m5's & wom5's f9e %oes4 ,?is tannage & f9i% give a rem>kable cutt+ value4 ,! /ability ( ?is /ock is entirely unique & makes ! f9i%$ %oe /& up1 keep+ its mu* desir$ %ape ?r\gh ! diff]5t te/s ( manufactur+4 ,x is said to be ! be/ calfsk91 by ! be/ judges1 ! %oe manufactur]s4 ,bronko pat5t is di/+ui%$ = its f9e1 coltsk9-effect gra94 ,x has a ri* & lu/r\s black pat5t f9i%4 ,! results obta9$ f bronko pat5t 9 its work+s ?r\gh ! %oe factory & its we>+ qualities aft]w>d h nev] be5 equal$4 ,bronko is "o ( ! f9e/ results ( ! developm5t ( *rome pat5t lea!r4 ,cadet kid side is a *rome side lea!r t closely imitates ! calfsk91 call$ cadet kid4 ,x has a bright1 lu/r\s f9i%1 & a rem>kably f9e gra94 ,x is surpris+ly l f9e calf lea!r 9 appe>ance4 ,cadet calf sides are simil> to cadet kid sides ) ! exception ( a bo>d$ f9i%4 ,?is is ano!r black *rome1 side lea!r :i* comes v ne> to a calfsk94 ,mat royal *rome side is a special f9i%1 closely resembl+ calf1 us$ = ! tops ( m5's & wom5's m$ium f9e %oes4 ,black hawk pat5t is a well-tann$1 well-f9i%$ pat5t lea!r = m$ium-pric$ wom5's %oes & = tipp+4 ,color$ box *rome side1 bo>d$1 is a sub/itute = will[ calf4 ,black box *rome side1 bo>d$1 is a sub/itute = box calf 9 m$ium f9e %oes4 ,kang>oo kid side is a back-tann$1 dull1 smoo?1 black lea!r ne>ly l calf1 us$ 9 ! tops ( m5's %oes1 & m5's & wom5's :ole %oes4 ,wat]pro( black is a high quality lea!r ( great durability = m5's & boys' heavy %oes4 ,wat]pro( br[n is simil> to wat]pro( black1 except 9 color1 & is a lea!r made = h>d s]vice4 ,amhide black is a s(t1 dry1 high-grade tannage = lightweight1 com=table1 sport+1 "w1 & h>d-we> %oes4 ,amhide russet is l black amhide 9 ev]y?+ b color4 ,h]cules /orm *rome is a lea!r di/+ui%$ = its f9e gra9 & good appe>ance ( m$ium heavy weight4 ,boris is a heavy-weight1 s(t1 wat]pro( lea!r = m5's m$ium quality %oes4 ,x is f9i%$ 9 ?ree colors & black4 ,zulu is a m$ium-pric$ lea!r1 :i* makes a v f9e we>+ heavy %oe4 ,x is made 9 two colors & black4 ,bison is a color$ or black-f9i%$ lea!r1 ( a high grade1 v com=table & durable4 ,ottawa is ( two colors & black f9i%$1 & is suitable = high quality1 heavy1 r\gh %oes4 ,%eboygan calf is a heavily /uff$1 s(t1 wat]pro( lea!r4 ,x is ( two colors & black4 ,dongola calf is a black lea!r us$ = durable1 m$ium-pric$1 heavy1 outdoor %oes4 ,belt knife splits are sold 9 sev]al tannages & f9i%es ( ! mo/ improv$ manufacture4 ,^! splits are sort$ 9 all weights4 ,uni=m selection is ma9ta9$1 & ! quality 9 e way is ( ! highe/ ord]4 ,ox=d calf union splits is "o ( ! highe/ grades ( gra9-f9i%$1 union splits4 ,x has an extremely s(t & f9e appe>ance4 ,cambridge calf union splits h a mo/ c>eful & high-grade f9i%1 b some:at firm] ?an ,ox=d calf4 ,fle% splits are sold 9 two tannages4 ,^! are ! highe/-grade fle% splits t x is possible to make1 & !y are a long di/ance ahead ( ! ord9>y fle% splits1 _! improv$ f9i% mak+ !m a mod]n & l>gely us$ sub/itute = sat94 ,ottawa black & russet splits include a v>iety ( pr9t$ splits1 us$ = %oes 9 comb9ation ) gra9 lea!r & = :ole %oes4 ,!y are select$ 9 _m weights4 ,flexible splits = ,goodye>1 gem1 ,mc,kay inn] soles1 is lea!r t (f]s ! greate/ advantages to l>ge & small buy]s4 ,x is ! product ( six diff]5t tann]ies1 assort$ 9 all ! usual weights4 ,great c>e is tak5 9 ! manufacture ( ^! splits to adapt !m p]fectly to ! %oe manufactur]'s ne$s4 ,flexible b5ds are us$ by manufactur]s ( ,goodye> welt %oes requir+ a /raight ,goodye> or gem inn] sole4 ,!y f9d ^! b5ds ( great advantage on acc\nt ( ! small am\nt ( wa/e1 ! /r5g? & desirability ( /ock4 ,!y are made 9 six tannages4 ,*rome flexible splits = inn] soles furni% a v /rong & durable lea!r = inn] soles1 taps1 & out] soles4 ,ooze gusset splits1 color$1 give a v l[-pric$ lea!r suitable = gussets1 bell[s tongues = high-cut boots1 also = ! qu>t]-l9+s ( ,ox=ds4 ,ooze vamp splits1 black & color$1 are /rong1 durable1 l[-pric$ lea!rs suitable = *eap "w %oes :]e wat]pro( qualities are n requir$4 ,*rome-tann$ emboss$ splits1 color$1 are made 9 a great v>iety ( patt]ns = *eap %oes & o!r "w :]e lea!r is requir$4 ,!y are durable & l[ pric$4 ,,lea!r ,,= ,,belt+ ,a native /e] ab\t f\r ye>s old1 kill$ 9 ! mon? ( ,octob]1 af=ds ! be/ example ( a good hide = belt+ manufacture1 t is1 = ! transmission ( p[] f pulley to pulley4 ,at ?is age & at ?is season ! /e] is 9 prime condition4 ,on acc\nt ( ! great & enorm\s /ra9 put ^u belt+1 & ! necessity = its runn+ true ^u ! pulley1 x %\ld be ( ! highe/ grade possible1 comb9+ great /r5g? to prev5t /ret*+1 & ev5ness ( gra9 to insure long we>2 !re=e only hides ( select$ /e]s are s]viceable1 & ^! 9 turn are reject$ :5 !y conta9 any blemi%es or cuts or o!r imp]fections4 ,aft] a hide is accept$ = belt+ purposes1 x is subject$ to a g5]\s trimm+1 ! head1 neck1 legs1 & belly be+ cut away1 leav+ only a small & compact section embrac+ f two to two & a qu>t] feet on ea* side ( ! backbone & ext5d+ ab\t six feet along ! same f ! tail =w>d4 ,?is is ! portion ( ! hide :]e ! fib]s are closely & firmly knit toge!r1 & :]e ! vitality is ! greate/1 due to ! close proximity ( ! network ( n]ves radiat+ f ea* side ( ! sp9e to all p>ts ( ! hide4 ,! hides ( ! bull & c[ ( e bre$ are inf]ior = belt+ purposes to t ( ! /e]4 ,! hide ( ! bull is co>se & h>d1 ) ! neck v heavy & full ( wr9kles1 caus+ a v>iation 9 ! ?ickness & run ( ! gra9 ( ! lea!r4 ,! hide ( ! c[ is ?91 does n run uni=m 9 ?ickness1 be+ heavi] on ! hips ?an at ! %\ld]1 & is lack+ 9 ! firmness necess>y 9 good belt+4 ,! %>p angles ( ! hip bones ( a c[ also t5d to =m pockets 9 ! hide4 ,aft] ! hide has be5 trimm$1 x is subject to ! process ( 8curry+40 ,all membranes or p>ticles ( fle% adh]+ to ! hide are remov$ by a ma*9e :i* %aves ! membrane1 etc41 (f1 ) lightn+ rapidity4 ,! lea!r is !n wa%$ & sc\r$ by ma*9e1 :i* removes all dirt /ill adh]+ to ! hide4 ,aft] ! lea!r is ?or\ghly clean$ & :ile 9 a damp /ate1 x is plac$ ^u ! table1 & greases1 compos$ ( pure animal oil1 are work$ into ! lea!r on bo? ! gra9 & ! fle% side ) bru%es4 ,?is is c>ri$ on 9 ! cold /ate4 ,x is !n put into a l>ge revolv+ :eel conta9+ wat] heat$ to a high degree1 :i* causes ! lea!r to swell & pores to op54 ,! lea!r is !n tak5 out & put into ano!r :eel conta9+ heavy m9]al oil & heat$ sev]al degrees great] ?an ! wat]1 & tumbl$ ab\t 9 ! :eel until ! heavy oil fills ! di/5d$ pores & fib]s4 ,aft] ?is1 ! lea!r is all[$ to dry4 ,! hides are all[$ to rema9 = sev]al mon?s 9 ! tan liquor until ! gre5 hide is *ang$ into lea!r4 ,aft] ! hide has be5 *ang$ into lea!r1 x is /ret*$4 ,to prop]ly /ret* ! lea!r = belt+ purposes1 x mu/ fir/ be cut s z to remove t "p :i* %[s ! m>k+s ( ! backbone ( ! /e]4 ,lea!r is /ret*$ by plac+ x 9 clamps1 e "p ( ! piece gett+ ! same pull4 7,! lea!r is put into ! clamps :ile damp1 z damp lea!r w give ! greate/ am\nt ( /ret*+47 ,:5 ! /ret*+ process is complet$ & ! lea!r has ?or\ghly dri$ 9 /ret*+ clamps1 x is releas$4 ,^! pieces ( lea!r are q dry1 v firm1 & n v pliable4 ,! lea!r is n[ moi/5$ 9 ord] t x %all be m pliable z x passes ?r\gh ! f9i%+ processes4 ,aft] ! wat] has soak$ into ! lea!r 7call$ sammi$71 x becomes v s(t4 ,x is !n subject$ to a roll] "u heavy pressure to take all ! unev5ness out ( ! hide4 ,x is next ?or\ghly dri$1 caus+ ! fib]s to %r9k2 !n aga9 moi/5$ & put ?r\gh a poli%+ ma*9e1 :i* acts on ! same pr9ciple z ! roll+ jack4 ,! sides & c5t]s are n[ put ?r\gh a cutt+ ma*9e1 :i* r$uces ! lea!r to /rips ( diff]5t sizes4 ,belts are put toge!r by cem5t+ ! p>ts4 ,belt cem5t is a mo/ p[]ful adhesive4 ,x actually gov]ns ! /r5g? ( ! belt1 z ! belt is z /rong z ! weake/ "p ( ! jo9t4 ,,ra:ide ,,products ,ra:ide is us$ = a great _m purposes4 ,aft] ! side ( lea!r has be5 trimm$ ( ! portions t _c be us$1 x is sold to ! lace mak]4 ,he measures ! same 9 a ma*9e4 ,! trimm+s f ! side ( ! hide may be us$ = a mallet head or o!r tools made ( lea!r4 ,! mo/ common products ( ! /rong section ( ra:ide /r+s are %oe /r+s1 belt+ laces1 & p>ts ( h>nesses4 ,x is also made into lea!r %oe /r+s t are us$ 9 ! logg+ camps4 ,:5 ! hide is select$ = ! ra:ide purposes1 x is fir/ pass$ to a de-hair+ ma*9e1 :]e all ! hair is remov$4 ,x is !n fle%$2 t is1 all loose membrane & any fle% t may h adh]$ to ! hide are remov$ f ! fle% side4 ,! ra:ide is !n plac$ 9 a special ba? = ! purpose ( op5+ ! pores1 be=e ! oils & greases are add$ to x4 ,aft] ?is ba?1 x is dri$ ?or\ghly 9 a hot box & !n put into :eels :i* mill ! greases into ! hide4 ,! hide1 :i* is made h>d by ?is dry+ process1 is put ?r\gh break]s1 :]e x is ?or\ghly work$ into s(t & pliable =m4 ,! hide is next pass$ to ! sett+-out ma*9e1 :i* f9i%es all =ms ( lea!r--by cond5s+ & /r5g!n+ ! fib]s4 ,special oils are appli$ to bo? ! gra9 & fle% side ( ! hide4 ,x is f9i%$ by h& & cut into laces4 ,?is h& f9i%+ is usually done 9 ord] to reject all p>ts t are n p]fect4 ,hair$ lea!r is tann$ by acid--a quick] me?od4 ,! hide is split into sides & tann$ ) ! belly /ock on !m1 :i* is us$ = c> /raps1 c[bell /raps1 trunk /raps1 & rid+ bridles4 ,,! ,,by-,,products ,,( ,a ,,lea!r ,,belt+ ,,factory ,!re are a great _m by-products 9 a lea!r belt+ factory1 all ( :i* are us$4 ,! f9e/ /rips are us$ = :ip la%es1 small pieces are us$ = ! ,fr5* heel1 & ! extremely small pieces are us$ 9 lea!r mats4 ,! by-product f ! belt+ bull1 :i* is ab\t fifty p] c5t1 is us$ = %oe lea!r & lea!r /raps4 ,!re is consid]able lea!r tak5 f ! belt+ bull = c]ta9 h>ness "w4 ,! belly is ?ick & por\s ?\gh n t\gh1 & is us$ = halt]s1 c[ bridles1 & o!r p>ts ( h>ness :]e ! /ra9 is n great4 ,,r\nd ,,belt ,,mak+ ,r\nd belt is made f ! be/ belt+1 b :ile ! /ra9 on r\nd belt+ is n sev]e1 ! lea!r mu/ be s(t & pliable4 ,x is select$ f regul> /ock ( native /e] hide4 ,,prop]ties ,,( ,,tann$ ,,lea!r ,lea!r t has be5 tann$ is made up ( a great _m little bundles ( fib]s4 ,! co>s] & /rong] fib]s are on ! inside1 & ! v f9e & smoo?ly laid fib]s are on ! outside4 ,^! fib]s are s int]tw9$ & s ela/ic t :5 ! lea!r b5ds ^! bundles play on "o ano!r4 ,on acc\nt ( ! smoo?ness ( ! surface x may be poli%$1 & beautiful f9i%es & effects obta9$ on ! lea!r4 ,! ela/icity ( lea!r 7:i* is due to ! ela/icity ( its fib]s7 all[s x to /ret* to a great ext5t4 ,! t5d5cy to return to its orig9al position is v /rong at ! beg9n+1 b gr[s weak] if ! /ra9 is cont9u$ at any "o po9t4 ,( c\rse1 9 /ret*+ ! lea!r1 !re is always a correspond+ draw+ 9 ano!r "p ( ! %oe1 :i* gives x a worn & baggy appe>ance4 ,:5 %oes are remov$ f ! feet1 !y are (t5times damp1 due to p]spiration4 ,! /ret*$ or /ra9$ fib]s are apt to %r9k & return to _! orig9al position4 ,9 ord] to avoid ?is1 x is necess>y to place %oe-trees 9 !m4 ,:5 ! l9+s ( %oes are expos$ to friction & excretion ( p]spiration f ! feet ( "s p1 !y det]iorate4 ,?is is due to ! fact t ! acids ( p]spiration 7acetic1 =mic & butyric acids7 h become s conc5trat$ t !y act on ! fib]s ( ! lea!r4 ,^! acids ex]t a burn+ effect1 caus+ ! fib]s to lose _! ela/icity s t !y no long] play on "o ano!r1 b become fa/5$ to ea* o!r4 ,! result is t !y become h>d1 & any attempt to b5d ! lea!r te>s !m ap>t2 & once ! union ( fib]s is de/roy$ x _c be repair$4 ,9 ord] to keep ! fib]s 9 su* a condition 7s(t & flexible71 !y %\ld be lubricat$ (t5 7twice a week7 ) a liquid foll[$ by a wax pa/e1 usually call$ %oe dress+4 ,:5 a bru% or a piece ( clo? is rubb$ ov] ! surface ( lea!r conta9+ ! %oe lubricants 7%oe poli%71 x produces a smoo? surface call$ a 8%9e40 ,comp\nds :i* %9e )\t friction produc$ by bru% or clo? %\ld n be us$1 z !y are simply v>ni%es & "o coat on top ( ! o!r de/roys ! lea!r4 ,,sub/itutes ,,= ,,lea!r ,9 old5 times our fa!rs & mo!rs us$ h&made %oes1 & wore !m till !y _h pass$ _! p]iod ( usefulness4 ,at t "t ! consumption did n equal ! production ( lea!r4 ,k ( conditions 9 ! great we/]n c\ntries to-day w %[ t _m ( ! big cattle-rais+ sections1 once fam$ = _! cattle1 h be5 tak5 up by home/ead]s & are n[ produc+ gra9 in/ead ( cattle4 ,b s9ce ! appe>ance ( ! ma*9e-made %oe1 diff]5t /yles ( %oes are plac$ on ! m>ket at diff]5t seasons1 to correspond to ! *ange ( /yle ( clo?+1 & %oes are (t5 disc>d$ be=e !y are worn out4 ,we h n be5 able ?us f> to utilize ca/-(f lea!r z ! %oddy mill uses wool & silk1 etc4 ,! result is t ! consumption ( lea!r is above ! production1 !re=e sub/itutes mu/ be us$4 ,9 %oe mat]ials !re is at pres5t an a/oni%+ div]sity & v>iety4 ,e kn[n lea!r is us$ f kid to c[hide1 & textile fabrics h develop$ rapidly1 especially 9 ! mak+ ( wom5's & *ildr5's %oes4 ,! sat9s1 velvets1 s]ges1 & o!r fabrics t are us$ 9 ! manufacture ( %oes mu/ be firm & well wov51 & are usually suppli$ ) a back+ ( firm1 canvas-l fabric1 to give /r5g?4 ,z to we>+ quality ! old say+1 8,!re is no?+ l lea!r10 /ill holds good2 b p d n buy %oes = _! we>+ qualities alone 9 ^! days4 ,/yle & intr9sic beauty are consid]$1 & h a ca% value j z 9 any o!r article ( app>el4 ,ea* fabric is made ( two sets ( ?readlike y>n wov5 at "r angles to ea* o!r4 ,!y are call$ ! w>p & fill+ 7weft74 ,! w>p is compos$ ( y>n runn+ ! longe/ way ( ! fabric1 & fill+ runs ! %ort way ( ! fabric4 ,s9ce ! w>p is ! body ( ! clo?1 x is its /ronge/ "p & all fabric 9 %oes %\ld be plac$ w>pwise across ! foot ( ! we>]1 s z to be able to resi/ ! great /ra94 ,v>i\s attempts h be5 made = legislation to prohibit ! treat+ ( lea!r by *emicals or ! use ( sub/ances to increase its weight4 ,compla9ts h be5 made by a numb] ( %oe manufactur]s t ! excessive use ( glucose 7a =m ( sug>7 9 sole lea!r has result$ 9 injur+ ! lea!r & fabrics compos+ ! upp]s ( %oes4 ,repres5tatives ( l>ge lea!r firms claim t ! me?ods ( tann+ sole lea!r h radically *ang$ dur+ ! la/ few ye>s1 & t ! small quantity ( glucose & epsom salts t is us$ to-day 9 f9i%+ sole lea!r is absolutely necess>y to its value1 & is 9 no s5se an adult]ant or weight+ mat]ial4 ,%oe manufactur]s1 on ! o!r h&1 claim t 9 "s cases l>g] am\nts ( glucose1 salt1 etc41 h be5 add$ to ! s(t lea!r f ! belly ( ! animal1 9 ord] to give x ! desir$ /iffness4 ,on acc\nt ( ! high price ( lea!r1 v>i\s attempts h be5 made to f9d a sub/itute = x4 ,mo/ ( ^! sub/itutes consi/ ( /rong clo? treat$ ) "s dry+ oil l l9se$1 ! oil hav+ previ\sly be5 mix$ ) o!r solid sub/ances4 ,a prize ( five ?\s& francs has be5 aw>d$ to a ,belgian inv5tor1 ,l\is ,geva]t1 = 8 unusually sup]ior artificial lea!r4 ,! process consi/s 9 ! m or less intimate impregnation ( /\t clo? ) tannic album9oid sub/ances4 ,%oes made ( ?is are said to possess n only ! resi/ance & ela/icity ( natural lea!r1 b its durability ( we>4 ,moreov]1 !y are mu* *eap]1 co/+1 includ+ manufacture1 only f\r francs 7ab\t eighty c5ts7 & be+ sold at ab\t six francs p] pair4 ,,*apt] ,,f\r ,,! ,,anatomy ,,( ,,! ,,foot ,v few p1 ev5 among ^? engag$ 9 ! %oe indu/ry1 "k mu* ( ! anatomy ( ! foot4 ,yet x is evid5t t !y ought to "k some?+ ab\t x 9 ord] to furni% ! foot ) a prop] cov]+4 ,! fir/ ?+ t /rikes a p]son on look+ at ! human foot is its l>ge proportion ( bone4 ,on press+ its top surface & t ( its inn] side1 ! am\nt ( fle% w be f\nd to be v small1 inde$4 ,! same is true ( ! inn] & out] ankle4 ,! extreme back ( ! ankle has sc>cely any fle% cov]+4 ,! mo/ fle%y portions ( ! foot are its out] side1 ! base ( ! heel & ! ball ( ! big toe4 ,! reason = ?is disposition ( fle% is to protect or cov] ^? p>ts ( ! foot t support ! body by com+ 9 contact ) ! gr\nd4 ,!y act z pads & less5 ! concussion4 ,! abundance ( fle% on ! out] side ( ! foot is to protect or act z a %ield aga9/ dang]4 ,! inside ( ! foot is n expos$ z mu* z ! outside4 ,! foot is divid$ into ?ree p>ts1 ! toes1 ! wai/ & in/ep1 & ! heel & ankle4 ,! l>ge/ bone ( ! foot is ! heel bone 7call$ calcaneum74 ,x is ! bone t projects backw>d f ! pr9cipal jo9t & =ms ! ma9 portion ( ! heel4 ,:5 a p]son is flat-foot$1 ?is bone is ?ru/ f>!r backw>d ?an nature int5d$ to h x4 ,! connection betwe5 x & ! t>sal bones is lo/4 ,illu/ration3 ,! ,bones & ,jo9ts ( ! ,human ,foot4 ,illu/ration3 ,! ,diff]5t ,p>ts ( ! ,foot & ,ankle4 ,see page #hf4 ,! top bone ( ! foot is ! a/ragalus1 & x =ms ! ma9 jo9t ^u :i* ! process ( walk+ dep5ds4 ,?is bone has a smoo?1 circul>1 upp] surface t connects x ) ! ma9 bone ( ! l[] leg4 ,x is absolutely necess>y t ?is bone %\ld be 9 p]fect h>mony 7relation7 ) ! o!rs 9 ord] to insure com=t & heal?4 ,if ! ar*es ( ! foot are =c$ out ( position1 up or d[n or sidewise1 ?is jo9t is n p]mitt$ to d its "w normally4 ,rheumatism is a frequ5t evil ( an injur$ jo9t4 ,h5ce ! necessity ( absolutely normal action1 unhamp]$ by ill-fitt+ %oes4 ,! pr9cipal ar* ( ! in/ep is call$ ! cunei=m or t>sal bone4 ,p]sons are tr\bl$ ) defective in/eps to q an ext5t4 ,mis%ap5 jo9ts at ?is po9t due to %oes t d n fit & consequ5tly dis>range & ?r[ out ( position ! delicate1 natural /ructure1 "w great havoc ) ! com=t ( ! foot4 ,n9e jo9ts clu/] at ?is po9t4 ,! bones ( ! toes are call$ ! metat>sal bones & phalanges4 ,!re c be no d\bt t nature int5d$ mank9d to walk 9 8 b>e feet1 & 9 t ev5t ! phalanges ( ! foot w\ld occupy a mu* m important "p ?an is n[ ! case z a result ( mod]n civilization4 ,!re are n9ete5 bones 9 ! foot1 & ! di/urbance ( "o or m ( ^! w s]ve to upset ! entire foot by ?r[+ out ( relation%ip ! g5]al unit ( "w devolv+ ^u ! :ole numb] ( jo9ts & bones4 ,ea* jo9t has its accompanim5t ( muscles1 & ea* lack ( alignm5t ( bones & jo9ts provokes discord & lack ( h>mony 9 ! muscul> action4 ,muscles are atta*$ to bones1 & by _! contraction or ext5sion ! bones are mov$4 ,v few movem5ts are effect$ by means ( a s+le muscle4 ,! muscles ( ! foot 9 ne>ly all cases are 9 comb9ation1 & are s complex 9 _! action t ! be/ surgeons f9d x difficult to describe !m satisfactorily4 ,! *ief *>act]i/ics ( ! foot are its spr+ & ela/icity4 ,:ile ! foot has wond]ful p[]s ( resi/ance & adaptability1 x is ! %oemak]'s duty n to /ra9 ! same1 b to provide = ea* action4 ,! mo/ s5sitive "p or ! "o "p t is mo/ susceptible ( injury is ! big toe4 ,?is is due to ! fact t ! t5d5cy ( ! foot 9 walk+ is to travel t[>d ! toe ( ! boot1 & 9 a ^w to press into r ?an %un dang]4 ,! %oemak] provides = ?is1 fir/1 by all[+ suffici5t l5g? ( sole to ext5d beyond ! t]m9ation ( ! toe1 & second1 by ! fit ( ! upp] & ! prep>ation ( ! sole4 ,9 ?is way1 if ! toe ( ! %oe /rikes aga9/ a h>d sub/ance1 ! big toe ( ! foot w rema9 unt\*$4 ,sev5ty-five p] c5t ( ! p h m or less tr\ble ) _! feet4 ,"s ( ^! tr\bles are caus$ by ! manufactur] putt+ on ! m>ket %oes ^: l9es look h&some & attractive to ! eye1 b are lack+ 9 any o!r good features4 ,%oes t fit prop]ly %\ld h pl5ty ( room f ! l>ge toe jo9t to ! end ( ! toes1 & also %\ld h pl5ty ( tread1 especially at ?is po9t4 ,a m]e glance at our b>e foot w %[ conclusively t po9t$-toe boots are false 9 ! !ory ( design4 ,! toes ( a foot :5 (f duty t\* ea* o!r g5tly4 ,:5 !y are call$ on to assi/ u 9 walk+ or 9 support+ our body1 !y spread out--al?\gh n to any great ext5t4 ,?is1 !n1 be+ ! action1 no s5sible mak] ( boots & %oes w\ld attempt to re/ra9 !m4 ,box or puff-toe %oes all[ ! greate/ fre$om4 ,! po9t$-toe %oes1 :i* jo9 ! vamp to ! upp] imm$iately ov] ! big toe jo9t1 exce$+ly high heels1 & ?ick wai/ %oes are n = ! be/ int]e/s ( ! foot4 ,! evils ( ill-fitt+ %oes are corns1 bunions1 & calluses4 ,corns are ma9ly due to pressure & friction4 ,:5 ! lay]s ( sk9 become h>d5$1 !y =m a corn1 :i* is m]ely a gr[? ( dead sk9 t has become h>d 9 ! c5t]4 ,?is h>d5$ spot acts l a =eign body to ! inflam$ p>ts4 ,a h>d corn is =m$ m by friction ?an pressure4 ,x is produc$ by ! con/ant rubb+ ( a tight or small %oe aga9/ ! project+ p>ts ( "s prom95t bony "p1 z ! la/ jo9ts on ! ?ird1 f\r?1 & little toe4 ,:5 ?is action cont9ues1 x produces inflammation4 ,re/--z reliev+ ! feet ( ! friction--decreases ?is inflammation1 leav+ a lay] ( h>d5$ fle%4 ,r5ew$ action reproduces ! same effects1 leav+ beh9d a second lay] ( h>d5$ fle%4 ,?is cont9u$ action & reaction br+s on a callus1 ris+ above ! surface ( ! sk94 ,?is increases f its base4 ,an ord9>y h>d corn may be remov$ by scrap+ up ! call\s sk9 ar\nd its bord]1 & pry+ out c>efully ) a knife4 ,s(t corns are *iefly ! result ( pressure or friction4 ,^! corns are s(t & spongy elevations on ! p>ts ( ! sk9 subject$ to pressure4 ,s(t corns are mo/ly f\nd on ! inn] side ( ! small] toes4 ,^? on ! surface ( jo9ts by me*anical action w become h>d4 ,! blood corn is excessively pa9ful4 ,x is ! result ( an ord9>y corn =cibly displac+ ! blood vessels surr\nd+ x1 & caus+ !m to re/ ^u its surface4 ,! bunion is an inflammatory swell+ g5]ally to be f\nd on ! big toe jo9t4 ,! *ief cause ( bunions is kn[n to be ! we>+ ( boots or %oes ( insuffici5t l5g?4 ,! foot1 meet+ ) resi/ance 9 front & beh9d1 is robb$ ( its natural actions1 ! result be+ t ! big toe is =c$ upw>d1 & subject$ to cont9u\s friction & pressure4 ,! we>+ ( n>r[-toe boots t prev5t ! outw>d expansion ( ! toe is ano!r cause4 ,! comp>isons ( quantities are (t5 call$ ratios4 ,! ratios ( ! diff]5t p>ts ( ! foot to ! height are diff]5t 9 ! infant f t ( ! adult p]iod4 ,betwe5 ^! two p]iods ! ratios are con/antly *ang+4 ,!re are two s]ies ( %oe sizes on ! m>ket2 ! smalle/ size ( %oe = infants 7size ,no4 #a7 is1 or 0 orig9ally1 f\r in*es long2 ea* add$ full size indicates an increase 9 l5g? ( "o ?ird ( an in* 7sizes #a to #e74 ,*ildr5's sizes run 9 two s]ies1 #e to #h1 & #h to #aa2 !n !y bran* out into y\?s' & misses'2 bo? runn+ #aa1 #ab1 #ab1 #ac1 #ac & back aga9 to #a1 #a1 #b1 etc41 9 a s]ies ( sizes t run up into m5's & wom5's4 ,boys' %oes run f #b to #e2 m5's f #f to #aa 9 regul> runs4 ,l>g] sizes usually are made ^u special ord]s4 ,"s few manufactur]s g to #ab4 ,wom5's sizes run f #b to #i4 ,"s manufactur]s d n g above size #h4 ,! rate ( sizes is sometimes v>i$ f by manufactur]s ( special l9es ( %oes4 ,a man's ,no4 #h %oe w\ld be ne>ly elev5 in*es long4 ,^! measurem5ts orig9at$ 9 ,engl& & are n n[ absolute4 ,a sy/em ( ,fr5* sizes is us$ :i* consi/s ( a ciph] sy/em ( m>k+s to indicate ! sizes z well z wid?s s t ! real size may n be kn[n to ! cu/om]4 ,all feet are n alike 9 /ructure & %ape4 ,9 infancy ! foot is broad at ! toes1 :i* press =w>d 9 ! direction ( _! l5g?4 ,! heel is small 9 comp>ison to ! wid? ( ! toes1 & also %ort 9 l5g?1 due to ! undevelop$ bones4 ,b dur+ gr[?1 ! ?ickness above ! heel bones disappe>s1 & ! heel itself becomes ?ick] & assumes ! beauty ( p]fection at maturity4 ,?is developm5t is due to ! gr[? ( bones :i* mu/ be well ex]cis$ & prop]ly c>$ = dur+ ?is p]iod4 ,! v>i\s p>ts ( ! feet & legs d n mature at ! same rate--^? at ! upp] "p ( ! body increase at a great] rate ?an ! l[] p>ts4 ,?ighs develop fir/1 next ! upp] "p ( ! legs1 & la/ly ! feet4 ,! adult foot1 :5 prop]ly =m$1 is /raight f heel to toe on ! inn] side1 & is wid] across ! jo9ts ?an "o in* or s f>!r back4 ,! mann] ( walk+ has a consid]able be>+ on ! "* & developm5t ( ! foot4 ,!re are _m sorts ( feet1 :i* are due to a numb] ( causes1 su* z habits1 climate1 occupation1 locality1 etc4 ,z a g5]al rule we may divide ! feet into f\r classes3 ,bony feet--^? ) v little fle% ^u !m2 h>d feet--^? t h pl5ty ( fle%1 b :i* are almo/ z h>d z a /one2 fat feet--plump1 ) pl5ty ( fle%1 b hav+ little %ape2 spongy feet--^? t seem to h no bones 9 !m1 usually f\nd 9 ! female sex4 ,! *>act]i/ics ( a foot are common ) ! body to :i* x is connect$4 ,"s p h a /rong1 bony frame1 ) /rong1 firm muscles1 prom95t bones & muscles1 & a fle% t is h>d4 ,! feet ( ?is type ( p]son are usually long1 bony1 & ar*$1 ) a well-develop$ big toe jo9t4 ,! heel measurem5ts are l>ge 9 proportion4 ,a s(t foot is preval5t among ! ,scot*4 ,! feet ( a p]son :o is delicately %ap$1 ) a small frame & ?91 small1 tap]+ muscles1 are usually ?9 & f9ely =m$1 giv+ evid5ce ( quickness4 ,?is k9d ( a foot 9 a man has a t5d5cy to develop a flat foot4 ,a p]son ) a =m incl9$ to plumpness1 full ( ex]cise & activity1 & a good circulation1 has a well-develop$ foot4 ,! heel is r\nd & fairly prom95t1 al?\gh !re are no special bony prom95ces4 ,on ! o!r h& a p]son ) a body ( g5]al r\ndness1 b ) tissues & muscles flabby1 & a languid blood circulation1 has feet t are %ort1 s(t1 & flabby4 ,we w all[ t ^! f\r diff]5t k9ds ( feet all measure a #d size & ,d 9 wid?4 ,"o w\ld naturally ?9k t ! same size %oe w\ld fit !m all1 b ?is is n s4 ,?is size %oe w only fit "o & t is ! bony foot4 ,! h>d feet require a ,c wid?2 ! fat feet require a ,c wid?1 & ! sponge feet require a ,b wid?4 ,! same la/ may1 & (t5 w possess a slight v>iation 9 "s mann] or o!r4 ,! fitt] ( feet mu/ "k ! /ock1 ea* pair1 & be on intimate t]ms ) ! peculi>ities ( ea* la/ & ! inside l9es ( ea* pair ( %oes be=e attempt+ to try !m ^u ! feet ( ! cu/om]4 ,diff]5t makes ( footwe> are apt to be manufactur$ ov] a slightly v>y+ sy/em ( measurem5ts4 ,"o l9e ( %oes made ov] a small measure may be long] or %ort] or n>r[] or wid] ?an "s o!r l9e4 ,! heel measurem5ts require c>eful /udy = ea* l9e introduc$4 ,! peculi>ities ( ea* l9e mu/ be te/$ by tape & measure1 & ! foot fitt] mu/ h a /rong k along ^! l9es4 ,we %\ld measure ! foot by ! /ick if necess>y1 & make a note ( ! size & wid? t w be likely to prove a fit4 ,! height ( ! ar* mu/ be consid]$1 & ! %ape ( ar* curve1 ! %ape ( ! in/ep1 & ! g5]al cont\r ( ! foot4 ,a normal foot w %[ ab\t a half-in* ar*4 ,! av]age foot w c>ry f an in* to an in* & a qu>t] heel1 )\t putt+ a /ra9 on any ( ! jo9ts ( ! foot4 ,"s feet v>y f ?is by a wide m>g94 ,a foot is a trifle long] 9 walk+ ?an 9 repose4 ,all[ance %\ld be made1 9 us+ ! measur+ /ick1 ov] :at ! foot actually draws on ! /ick4 ,9 m5's %oes ! all[ance1 %\ld be f two to two & "o half sizes4 ,:5 a "o-legg$ man buys a %oe1 ! deal] s5ds to ! factory a %oe to mat* ! "o left rema9+4 ,9 ^! days ( ! use ( ma*9]y 9 e process ( _! manufacture1 %oes are made ) ! utmo/ exactness & precision1 & x is easily possible to mate t rema9+ %oe ) ! greate/ nicety 9 size1 /yle1 mat]ial1 & f9i%4 ,few p h feet exactly alike2 commonly ! left foot is l>g] ?an ! "r1 s t "o %oe may fit a little m snugly ?an ! o!r4 ,commonly1 h[ev]1 p buy %oes 9 regul>ly mat*$ pairs1 ! diff]5ce 9 _! feet1 if x is noticeable to !m at all1 n be+ en\gh to make any o!r c\rse desirable4 ,b !re are p :o buy %oes ( diff]5t sizes or wid?s1 9 :i* case ! deal] breaks two pairs = !m1 giv+ !m1 to fit _! feet1 "o %oe f ea*4 ,9 su* cases ! deal] mat*es up ! two rema9+ %oes1 "o f ea* ( two pairs j z he w\ld :]e he _h brok5 "o pair to sell "o %oe to a "o-legg$ man4 ,b a man does n h to be "o-legg$ nor to h feet ( unev5 sizes or %apes to make him ask ! deal] to break a pair ( %oes = him4 ,a man ) two p]fectly good feet came into ! /ore :]e he 0 accu/om$ to buy & want$ "o %oe4 ,:ile travel+ 9 a sleep+ c>1 8 %oes _h be5 mix$ up ) o!rs & he _h receiv$ back "o ( 8 own & "o ( "s o!r man's2 a fact :i* he _h n discov]$ until he 0 too f> away f tra9 & /ation to set ?+s "r4 ,s he came 9 to buy "o %oe to mat* 8 own4 ,,*apt] ,,five ,,h[ ,,%oe ,,/yles ,,are ,,made ,if y exam9e ! %oes worn by p 9 a l>ge city1 y w notice diff]5t /yles4 ,%oe /yles t 7 call$ grotesque a few seasons ago are comp>atively usual to-day1 = ! new designs 9 wom5's footwe>1 :i* manufactur]s are n[ mak+1 are ! mo/ v>i$ t ev] h be5 put on ! m>ket4 ,p9k & gre5 & blue are among ! new colors 9 mat]ials = footwe>4 ,"s ( ! /yles = ! com+ seasons are m lavi% ?an h hi!rto be5 se5 9 ! wom5's %oe trade ( ,am]ica4 ,coronation purple velvet boots look l an extravagant color = footwe>1 b !y are n[ sell+4 ,samples ( p9k1 gre51 & blue %oes1 bo? boots & pumps1 are be+ made up1 & !y w soon be (f]$ to buy]s4 ,! /yle ( ! %oe is dom9at$ by fa%ion4 ,all /yles are relat$1 t is1 e "p ( our dress is influ5c$ by ! prevail+ fa%ion1 ideas ( color1 fabric1 or g>m5t outl9e4 ,to illu/rate3 :5 %ort skirts are /yli%1 wom5 we> manni% %oes to h>monize ) !m2 on ! o!r h&1 ) long skirts !y mu/ h a %oe t is neat & small1 h5ce1 ! %ort vamp4 ,:5 wom5 we> :ite 9 ! summ]1 cool canvas %oes spr+ into favor2 :5 gray & blue dress mat]ials are to be us$1 a v>iety ( tan %oes are worn to h>monize1 etc4 ,aft] ! /yle has be5 decid$ ^u1 x is necess>y to "w out an exact reproduction4 ,an exp]t model mak]1 call$ a la/ mak]1 produces a la/1 a wood5 model ( ! %oe4 ,9 ord] to d ?is1 x is necess>y to lay out c]ta9 plans or specifications = ! details ( ! manufactur] ( ! %oe4 ,!re are c]ta9 p>ts ( all feet t h fix$ measurem5ts4 ,to illu/rate3 ! l5g? ( ! %ank1 t "p ( ! sole ( ! foot betwe5 ! heel & ball1 9 e p]son's foot is always ! same4 ,! "p ( ! foot back ( ! ball or l>ge toe jo9t con=ms to c]ta9 fix$ measurem5ts4 ,^! def9ite measurem5ts =m a basis by :i* ! la/ mak] orig9ates new /yles by %ort5+1 l5g!n+1 wid5+1 or n>r[+ ! space 9 front ( ! toes1 b always reta9+ ! true & fix$ measurem5ts ( ! back "p ( ! la/4 ,:5 ! la/ mak] desires to produce a new /yle1 he takes an old la/ & tack+ pieces ( lea!r on "s p>ts ( x 7front ( ! toes71 he builds x up & cuts (f o!r p>ts4 ,?is pat*$-up la/ is tak5 to a special ma*9e 7la!71 :]e a numb] ( duplicates are turn$ f a block ( wood4 ,! 8patt]n mak]0 is ! man 9 ! factory :o makes patt]ns1 consi/+ ( heavy pieces ( c>dbo>d b\nd ) brass1 9 ! %apes ( ! v>i\s pieces ( lea!r requir$ to make up ! upp] "p ( ! %oe4 ,! patt]n mak] has f\nd by exp]i5ce t ! top "p ( ! %oe also con=ms to c]ta9 fix$ measurem5ts1 & by work+ 9 sympa?y ) ! la/ mak] he ne$ only to *ange ! front "p ( ! vamp to br+ out ! latt]'s ideas4 ,) ^! measurem5ts z a f\ndation1 he puts =? f "t to "t diff]5t /yle upp]s1 z buttons1 lace1 blu*]1 fix+s1 scrolls1 /raps1 ties1 pumps1 etc4 ,?is is ! way new /yle tops orig9ate4 ,aft] ! manufactur] has approv$ ( sample patt]ns1 ! patt]n mak] receives an ord] = a c]ta9 quantity ( patt]ns to be made ov] a c]ta9 la/ :i* is submitt$ to him4 ,work+ on ! fix$ top measurem5ts & ! la/ submitt$ z a basis1 ! patt]n mak] draws plans = a model patt]n4 ,! /&>d size ( a model patt]n is size #g 9 m5's %oes & size #d 9 wom5's4 ,he is also giv5 an ord] = a c]ta9 numb] ( wid?s2 = in/ance1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d1 & ,e1 & he draws out on pap] a complete set = ea* wid? 9 ! size #g4 ,^! f\r sets ( model patt]ns are reproduc$ & cut out 9 %eet iron by h&4 ,b f ^! %eets any numb] ( iron models1 & any size regul> c>dbo>d patt]n c be reproduc$ by a ma*9e4 ,wood to be made into la/s comes to ! %oe manufactur]s 9 a r\gh1 un*isel$ =m4 ,! la/s are made ( maple wood2 holl[ =ms us$ by travel+ salesm5 & w9d[ trimm]s are made ( bass wood4 ,! mak+ ( ! model ( ! la/ is ! mo/ exact+ op]ation 9 ! factory4 ,x is produc$ by a ma*9e mo/ important4 ,! pr9ciple ( ?is ma*9e has be5 br\ght ab\t by ! pantograph2 t is1 x w turn f a r\gh block ( wood an exact copy ( ! model la/2 or x w enl>ge or r$uce a duplicate ( any o!r size or wid?1 s1 f a s+le model la/1 su* z ! manufactur] has decid$ on1 any numb] ( la/s c be made1 & ( any size or wid?4 ,! ma*9e itself consi/s ( two la!s4 ,on "o is plac$ ! model & on ! o!r ! block ( wood4 ,! model is held aga9/ a :eel by a spr+4 ,by adju/+ ?is :eel1 any desir$ wid? la/ c be obta9$1 & by adju/+ a b> 9 front ( ! ma*9e any l5g? la/ c be produc$ f ! block ( wood4 ,illu/ration3 ,r\gh ,un*isel$ ,block ( ,maple4 ,a ,la/ aft] leav+ ,turn+ ,la!4 ,a ,f9i%$ ,la/4 ,! la!1 :5 9 motion1 revolves bo? ! la/ & ! model1 ! model be+ press$ aga9/ ! :eel1 :i* is really a guide = ! revolv+ knife t digs into ! block ( wood1 & regulates ! dep? t ! knife is all[$ to cut4 ,9 ?is mann] ! model is reproduc$ f ! block :i* is also regulat$ z to size & wid? by ! :eel & by ! b>4 ,?is ma*9e is s accurate t a tack driv5 into ! model to locate ! c5t] ( ! la/ is reproduc$ by a sort ( a wood5 pimple 9 ! block ( wood :5 f9i%$4 ,! model sole patt]n is n[ tri$ on ! half-f9i%$ la/ to insure accuracy4 ,notice 9 ! figures ( la/s t ! turn+ la! has left /ubs ( wood on ! toes & heels4 ,^! mu/ be f9i%$ to a 8templet40 ,! templet is a measure or guide us$ to indicate ! %ape any piece ( "w is to assume :5 f9i%$4 ,f ! heel & toe ( ! model1 a piece ( iron is %ap$ on an exact arc ( t model1 & is us$ on ! heel] ma*9e z a guide to =m an exact copy ( ! heels & toes ( ! model4 ,?is ma*9e works v rapidly1 & by ! aid ( an irregul> %ap$1 revolv+ knife x quickly trans=ms ! toes & heels to ! desir$ %ape4 ,! bottoms are aga9 tri$ out on a sole patt]n & ! la/ numb]1 ! size & ! wid? are /amp$ on4 ,we n[ h ! la/ z a solid piece ( maple wood & turn$ to ! desir$ %ape1 size & wid?4 ,7 x possible to ins]t & extract ! la/ 9 ?is =m f ! half-f9i%$ %oe1 no o!r /eps w\ld be necess>y 9 la/ manufacture1 b inasmu* z ! lea!r is /ret*$ v tightly ov] ?is la/ a little lat]1 x necessitates ! introduction ( "s me?od t w facilitate a quick removal ( ! la/ f ! %oe4 ,?is is accompli%$ by cutt+ x 9 two p>ts & mak+ a h+$ heel4 ,! fact t ! slighte/ measurem5t *anges ! size ( ! %oe1 necessitates great c>e 9 ! introduction ( ! h+e z a "p ( ! la/1 & 9 ord] to insure accuracy & uni=mity 9 all ! la/s1 !y are m>k$ ) templets & gigs4 ,! h+e mu/ be plac$ inside ( ! la/4 ,! f9i%$ la/ is s con/ruct$ t x c be readily ins]t$ or )drawn f ! %oe1 & ! /rong h+e provides ! la/1 :5 ins]t$1 ) ! same rigid qualities z ?\gh x 7 "o piece4 ,! c5t] ( ! la/ is indicat$1 z be=e /at$1 by a reproduction 9 ! side ( ! la/ ( ! tack t 0 plac$ 9 ! model4 ,?is is ! m>k t locates ! position ( all ! holes1 & x is done by a 8gig0 9 ! foll[+ mann]3-- ,a gig is a piece ( /eel hav+ cyl9d]s t guide ! bit ( ! bor+ ma*9e 9 an exact p]p5dicul> l9e4 ,?is gig1 be+ plac$ on ! la/ 9 ! position m>k$ by ! turn+ ma*9e1 =ms ! accurate location ( ! bolt holes t hold ! h+e4 ,aft] ! h+e is plac$ 9 ! la/1 x goes to ! iron]s to h ! bottom put on x1 if x is a ,mc,kay la/1 & a heel plate if x is a welt4 ,! bottom is aga9 tri$ & ! plate fill$ up to ! same4 ,! la/ is !n ready to g to ! sc\r+ room4 ,9 ?is room ! la/ goes ?r\gh ?ree op]ations1 fir/ ( :i* is ruff+4 ,?is consi/s ( sc\r+ ) a co>se grade ( qu>tz4 ,?is op]ation mu/ be c>ri$ on s t ! sole l9es & in/eps are n br\ght into contact ) ! qu>tz4 ,! second op]ation1 m$ium gr9d+1 is done ) a f9e grade ( qu>tz1 & 9 ?is op]ation1 also1 ! work] keeps away f ! toe4 ,! ?ird op]ation is done ) a mu* f9]-grade qu>tz1 ! op]ator go+ ov] ! entire la/4 ,! la/ is n[ ready = poli%+1 & aft] t1 = a heavy coat ( %ellac4 ,x is poli%$ & wax$ on a lea!r :eel4 ,!n x goes into ! %ipp+ room ready = %ipm5t to ! manufactur]4 ,,*apt] ,,six ,,dep>tm5ts ,,( ,a ,,%oe ,,factory--,,goodye> ,,welt ,,%oes ,! pr9cipal me?ods ( manufactur+ %oes are ! foll[+3-- ,goodye> welt2 ,mc,kay2 turn$2 /&>d screw2 pegg$2 nail$4 ,! simple/ & ! cle>e/ way ( %[+ h[ ! v>i\s k9ds ( %oes are made is to expla9 ! manufacture ( a ,goodye> welt & aft]w>ds br+ out ! po9ts 9 :i* ?is me?od ( %oemak+ diff]s f ! o!rs4 ,%oes are manufactur$ 9 up-to-date factories1 employ+ hundr$s ( op]atives4 ,! mod]n %oe factory ( to-day is divid$ into six g5]al dep>tm5ts3 ! sole lea!r dep>tm5t1 upp] lea!r dep>tm5t1 /it*+ dep>tm5t1 mak+ dep>tm5t1 f9i%+ dep>tm5t1 & ! tree+1 pack+1 & %ipp+ dep>tm5ts4 ,9 "s sections ( ! c\ntry1 sev]al ( ^! dep>tm5ts are (t5 designat$ by o!r names4 ,! /it*+ dep>tm5t is (t5 call$ ! fitt+ dep>tm5t2 ! mak+ dep>tm5t1 ! bottom+ dep>tm5t2 & ! sole lea!r dep>tm5t1 ! /ock-fitt+ dep>tm5t4 ,! dep>tm5ts are popul>ly t]m$ rooms = brevity4 ,a %oe factory is design$ s z to h a wid? ( ab\t fifty feet = ea* room1 :ile ! l5g? is accord+ to ! numb] ( %oes to be produc$4 ,a wid? ( ab\t fifty feet gives pl5ty ( daylight & ample room 9 ! c5t] ( ea* dep>tm5t1 :i* is v ess5tial 9 %oemak+4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,mod]n ,%oe ,factory4 ,%oe factories are usually ab\t two hundr$ feet long1 :ile _m are ne>ly f\r hundr$ feet4 ,a few exce$ f\r hundr$ feet1 runn+ z long z eight hundr$ feet4 ,"s are built 9 ! %ape ( holl[ squ>es1 :ile o!rs h w+s add$1 :i* give almo/ z mu* floor space z ! orig9al build+4 ,! av]age factory has usually f\r floors4 ,! fir/ floor1 or basem5t1 is occupi$ by ! sole lea!r dep>tm5t4 ,! next floor above includes ! tree+1 f9i%+1 pack+1 & %ipp+ dep>tm5ts1 & also ! (fice4 ,! ?ird floor is devot$ entirely to ! mak+ or bottom+ dep>tm5t4 ,! top floor is divid$ s t ! cutt+ & /it*+ dep>tm5ts h ea* half a floor4 ,!re are sev]al exce$+ly l>ge factories 9 ?is c\ntry t f9d x advantage\s to divide ! factory into m dep>tm5ts1 z1 = example1 ! cutt+ room is divid$ s t ! l9+s & trimm+s are cut 9 a sep>ate dep>tm5t4 ,! skiv+ may also be done 9 a sep>ate room4 ,! mak+ room w be divid$ s t ! la/+ is set (f z a sep>ate dep>tm5t on acc\nt ( ! _m workm5 & ma*9es employ$4 ,9 ! same way !re w be a division ( "w s t ! pack+ & %ipp+ w be set ap>t f ! tree+4 ,!n1 aga91 9 ! sole lea!r room1 ! mak+ ( heels z well z ! fitt+ ( ! bottom /ock may become indep5d5t dep>tm5ts4 ,! sy/em ( mak+ wom5's %oes is practically ! same z t ( m5's except t 9 a great _m factories ! me?od ( prep>+ ! bottom /ock is some:at diff]5t4 ,mo/ manufactur]s ( wom5's %oes d n cut sole lea!r1 b buy outsoles1 insoles1 c\nt]s1 & heels1 all cut or prep>$4 ,^! soles are 9 block$ =m & l>ge en\gh s t !y c be cut or r\nd$ by ! manufactur]s to fit _! la/s4 ,! c\nt]s1 :5 b\ght1 are all ready to put 9 ! upp]s1 :ile ! heels are ready to put on ! %oes4 ,:5ev] a manufactur] ( wom5's %oes cuts 8 sole lea!r1 he has ! same sy/em z t 9 ! m5's factories4 ,9 wom5's factories :]e sole lea!r is n cut1 !y d n h a complete sole lea!r dep>tm5t4 ,in/ead1 !y h :at is call$ a /ock-fitt+ dep>tm5t4 ,!re are indep5d5t cut sole h\ses1 etc41 9 ! trade1 :i* supply ! soles to manufactur]s4 ,! same sy/em ( buy+ supplies also applies to _m o!r p>ts ( ! %oe1 z 9 ! top lift1 half sole1 welt1 r&1 etc4 ,9 ! upp] lea!r dep>tm5t1 manufactur]s ( bo? m5's & wom5's %oes (t5 buy trimm+s & o!r p>ts ( ! upp] all prep>$4 ,a l>ge proportion ( ! m5's %oe manufactur]s are n[ buy+ heels all built1 :ile fully n9e t5?s buy c\nt]s all mold$4 ,! soles & o!r p>ts t are ne$$ = a %oe are put up 9 diff]5t qualities & grades1 & a manufactur] c buy any grade ( sole he wants1 s t x is consid]$ an advantage to buy "s p>ts1 in/ead ( cutt+ !m4 ,9 a side ( sole lea!r !re are tw5ty-five or m diff]5t qualities & grades ( soles1 & v few manufactur]s1 especially 9 ! wom5's trade1 c use all ( ^!4 ,! great] v>iety ( %oes a manufactur] turns out1 ! m advantage\s x is = him to cut 8 own sole lea!r1 & prep>e all p>ts 9 8 own factory4 ,9 ?is c\ntry ! numb] ( factories 9 ! %oe trade appe>s to be gr[+ less & ! av]age factory l>g] ea* ye>4 ,x is e/imat$ t !re are at pres5t some?+ l fifte5 hundr$ factories 9 all4 ,^! range f ! smalle/ product up to ! l>ge/4 ,! av]age factory may be said to produce ab\t twelve hundr$ pairs ( %oes p] day4 ,_m turn out five ?\s& pairs daily1 :ile a few manufactur]s turn out t5 ?\s& or m pairs4 ,sev]al manufactur]s & firms h half a doz5 or m factories & h a total output ( betwe5 tw5ty ?\s& & ?irty ?\s& pairs ( %oes a day4 ,!re is no su* ?+ z a tru/ or monopoly ( any k9d 9 ?is trade1 & !re nev] has be5 up to ! pres5t "t4 ,9 all factories & all classes ( "w1 ! 8case0 has always be5 ( su* a numb] ( pairs t x c be divid$ by twelve 9 e in/ance4 ,a case c be twelve1 tw5ty-f\r1 ?irty-six1 =ty-eight1 sixty1 or sev5ty-two pairs1 & 9 *ildr5's "w x is (t5 sixty & sev5ty-two pairs4 ,all cases ( ^! numb]s are regul> cases1 :]eas any o!r numb] w\ld be out ( ! ord9>y4 ,( c\rse1 a case ( %oes may conta9 any numb] ( pairs1 b ! numb]s giv5 above h always be5 us$ 9 regul> "w4 ,cases ( %oes may diff]1 b e pair ( %oes 9 any "o case mu/ be made exactly alike4 ,all %oes are made 9 cases1 except 9 ! matt] ( cu/om "w or s+le-pair ord]s or samples4 ,9 mak+ m5's heavy %oes1 or work+ %oes1 ! regul> case 0 =m]ly sixty pairs or ?irty-six pairs1 b ! t5d5cy has be5 ( late to h a /&>d case ( tw5ty-f\r pairs4 ,9 ! m5's f9e trade ! regul> case is tw5ty-f\r pairs1 :ile 9 ! wom5's x is ?irty-six pairs4 ,long boots = m5 h always be5 made 9 twelve-pair cases4 ,goods are sold by ! samples1 s5t out ) ! travel+ salesman4 ,z fa/ z he receives an ord]1 he s5ds x to ! ma9 (fice4 ,"h ! ord]s are subdivid$ & s5t to ! factories mak+ ! goods4 ,= example1 an ord] = sev5ty-five doz5 m5's %oes ( a c]ta9 /yle receiv$ by ! ma9 (fice f ! travel+ salesman w\ld be s5t to ! factory 9 ! =m ( a typewritt5 ord]1 cov]+ ! g5]al description & sizes writt5 out 9 ! prop] =m1 = ea* case is made accord+ to ! specifications on ! tags t are made out 9 ! (fice4 ,^! tags specify ! sole1 heel1 upp]1 k9d & quality1 h[ /it*$1 ! la/ to be us$1 h[ bottom$ f9i%$1 tre$1 & pack$4 ,ev]y?+ is m>k$ pla9ly on ! tags s t a buy] c h any %oe made j z he wants x4 ,?is ord] w\ld be s5t f ! factory (fice to ! cutt+ room1 :]e a cl]k w\ld make out tw5ty-five long tickets4 ,tw5ty-five are made because ! %oes g ?r\gh ! factory 9 lots ( tw5ty-f\r pairs1 ea* lot be+ call$ a job & :5 f9i%$ mak+ a case ( %oes4 ,! long ticket is made 9 duplicate =m1 & is p]=at$ s x may be ti$ to a lot ( %oes4 ,bo? p>ts ( ! tickets are made out to conta9 ! v>i\s op]ations ) ! specifications z to detail4 ,! l[] "p is s5t to ! /ock or sole lea!r room1 :ile ! top "p rema9s ) ! upp]s :i* are cut 9 ! cutt+ room4 ,:ile ea* "p ( ! ticket is s5t by a diff]5t r\te ?r\gh ! factory1 !y f9ally meet 9 ! =m ( f9i%$ %oes4 ,9 addition to ! long ticket already describ$1 two o!r tickets are made out1 ! top ticket & ! trimm+ ticket4 ,! top ticket is s5t to ! lea!r b9s ( ! factory1 :]e ! sort] kn[s by exp]i5ce exactly ! am\nt ( lea!r requir$ to cut ! ord]1 be+ c>eful to see t x is all ( uni=m quality & free f blemi%es4 ,he rolls ! lea!r 9 a bundle1 atta*es ! ticket & s5ds x to ! cutt]4 ,9 ! cutt+ room !re are ?ree classes ( cutt]s2 cutt] ( trimm+s1 :o cuts lace /ays1 top fac+s1 back /ays1 tongues1 etc42 outside cutt]1 :o cuts qu>t]s1 vamps1 tops1 tips1 etc42 & ! l9+ cutt]1 :o cuts clo? l9+s4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,n9e & ,"o-,half ,foot ,sk9 divid$ to be/ advantage be=e ,cutt+4 ,sk9s ( lea!r are receiv$ 9 ! %oe factory 9 diff]5t %apes4 ,"s are p]fect1 o!rs h blemi%es or imp]fect spots4 ,! sk9s t are to be us$ = upp] /ock are c>efully grad$ by two or ?ree m51 z to quality ( lea!r & weight4 ,?is is necess>y 9 ord] to be sure t a lot ( %oes made = a c]ta9 deal] w be uni=m4 ,on acc\nt ( ! lea!r com+ 9 diff]5t %apes1 "s sk9s p]fect1 o!rs hav+ imp]fect spots1 ! cutt] mu/ place 8 patt]ns 9 su* a way t c]ta9 p>ts ( ! %oe w use up all ! p]fect p>ts1 & o!rs1 less important1 w be compos$ ( ! weak] p>ts ( ! sk94 ,?is expla9s :y y sometimes f9d ! inside top "p ( a %oe made ( flanky lea!r1 :ile ! vamp is made ( a bett] grade4 ,!re is a patt]n = ea* & e size %oe1 & ea* piece ( lea!r is cut out sep>ately on a block ( wood4 ,no?+ is wa/$4 ,9 ord] to make ea* cutt] z effici5t z possible1 ! cutt]s are divid$1 s z to h a diff]5t cutt] = ea* grade ( lea!r4 ,9 ?is way !y become bett] judges ( lea!r4 ,! l9+ cutt]s use patt]ns & knives on drill+4 ,! fac+ is cut out ) a knife & patt]n4 ,! side /ays & ! tongue are cut out by dies4 ,aft] ! lea!r has be5 cut into ! desir$ %ape1 upp]s1 vamps1 toe pieces1 back /ays1 lace /ays1 etc41 cutt+ at times t5 pieces1 & = "s /yles ( %oes z _m z f\rte5 pieces1 ! cutt]s take c>e to keep ! p>ts = ! same %oe toge!r1 mat*+ & m>k+ !m s t ev5tually all w meet aga9 9 ! %oe4 ,ma*9es are us$ n[ on almo/ e op]ation1 & annually sev]al new ma*9es make _! appe>ance4 ,! cutt+ ( upp]s up to f\r or five ye>s ago 0 p]=m$ by an op]ator cutt+ ! lea!r by runn+ ! knife along ! side ( ! patt]n4 ,n[ !y are us+ a cutt+ ma*9e & dies to cut upp]s 9 ne>ly all factories4 ,?is cutt+ ma*9e is call$ ! 8click+ ma*9e10 & x is consid]$ q a labor sav] 9 a dep>tm5t :]e x 0 ! univ]sal op9ion t ma*9es nev] c\ld be us$4 ,x is impossible to give a li/ ( all ! op]ations p]=m$ & h x complete4 ,b a good g5]al idea ( ! sy/em c be giv5 & ! "n & mean+ ( ! ma9 op]ations 9 ! sev]al dep>tm5ts4 ,x %\ld be kept 9 m9d t ! me?ods 9 rooms diff]1 & t h>dly any two factories put a %oe ?r\gh 9 exactly ! same mann]4 ,! g5]al sy/em & plan is ! same ev]y:]e & ! ma*9es are ! same 9 all factories1 b ! details & m9or op]ations are s num]\s t !re is pl5ty ( scope = !m to v>y4 ,! function ( ! click+ ma*9e is to cut ! upp] lea!r into ! desir$ %apes requir$4 ,x consi/s ( an iron frame1 ) a cutt+ bo>d on ! top ( x4 ,above ?is is a l>ge beam :i* c be swung to ! "r or left ( any portion ( ! bo>d4 ,! sk9 to be cut1 :i* may be ( any k9d1 is plac$ on ! bo>d & a die ( ! design or %ape ( ! lea!r desir$ is plac$ on x4 ,! h&le ( ! sw++ beam is tak5 by ! op]ator & mov$ ov] ! die2 !n by pressure ( ! h&le ! beam is br\ght d[nw>d1 press+ ! die ?r\gh ! lea!r4 ,z soon z ?is is done1 ! beam automatically returns to its full height4 ,^! dies are made 9 diff]5t designs & sizes to meet ! diff]5t sizes & designs 9 ! upp] ( ! %oe4 ,"o die = ea* design & size4 ,!y m>k ! vamps = ! location ( ! toe cap & blu*] fox+s z well z ! size by means ( nicks 9 ! edge ( ! piece cut4 ,! dies are ab\t ?ree-qu>t]s ( an in* 9 height & s light t !y d n m> ! mo/ delicate lea!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,cutt+ ! ,lea!r by ,means ( ,patt]n & ,knife4 ,page #aah4 ,illu/ration3 ,goodye> ,/it*+4 ,a ma*9e t sews ar\nd ! edge ( ! welt & jo9s x to ! sole exactly at ! heel4 ,page #aai4 ,aft] ! outside cutt] has cut ! sk9 into pieces to make up ! %oe1 ^! are ti$ up 9 sep>ate bundles1 t is1 ! tw5ty-f\r ( tips 9 "o bundle1 tw5ty-f\r pairs ( vamps 9 ano!r4 ,^! are turn$ ov] to girls :o /5cil ! sizes on ! edge & mat* !m1 t is1 see t ea* upp] is exactly l ! mate4 ,aft] ! diff]5t p>ts h be5 cut by ! op]ator ( ! click+ ma*9e or by h&1 ! edges ( ! upp] lea!r1 :i* %[s 9 ! f9i%$ %oe1 mu/ be ?9n$ d[n 7skiv$7 by a 8skiv+ ma*9e0 to a bevel$ edge4 ,?is is done 9 ord] t ! edges ( ! lea!r t are to %[ 9 ! complet$ %oe may be fold$ to give a m f9i%$ appe>ance4 ,! ma*9es are op]at$ by girls2 ea* "o an exp]t on "o p>ticul> piece4 ,! ord] numb] & size ( %oe are /amp$ on ! top l9+ ( ea* %oe4 ,aft] all l9+s h be5 prep>$1 accord+ to ! data giv5 on ! in/ruction c>d atta*$ to p>ts ( ! %oe1 ! p>ts are s5t to ! /it*+ dep>tm5t1 :]e ! /it*]s on a multitude ( ma*9es /it* all ! diff]5t p>ts toge!r v rapidly & accurately4 ,! toe caps are !n giv5 a s]ies ( ornam5tal p]=ations along ! edge4 ,?is is done by ei!r 8p[] tip press10 or a 8p]=at+ ma*9e40 ,! fir/ consi/s ( a s]ies ( dies plac$ 9 a ma*9e by :i* ! lea!r is p]=at$ accord+ to ! designs desir$4 ,ea* s]ies ( dies repres5ts a diff]5t design4 ,! p]=at+ ma*9e resembles a sew+ ma*9e1 b in/ead ( a s]ies ( dies1 ! "o 9 ?is ma*9e is made ( s+le or comb9ation dies :i* make "o or m holes on ea* d[nw>d movem5t4 ,! ma*9e fe$s automatically & does ! "w v accurately4 ,! cutt+ tool is kept f becom+ dull by press+ aga9/ a b& ( pap]4 ,ornam5tation on o!r p>ts ( ! %oes1 su* z ! edges ( vamps1 etc41 is made by ?is ma*9e4 ,be=e go+ to ! /it*+ room1 e bundle is exam9$ by sort]s4 ,! sort]s are divid$ & subdivid$2 t is1 "o man always sorts tips1 ano!r vamps1 etc4 ,!y exam9e ea* piece = imp]fection1 & if any is f\nd1 ! piece is ?r[n out & a new "o put 94 ,! la/ op]ation is ! assembl+ ( pieces4 ,"h ea* job ( tw5ty-f\r pairs is br\ght toge!r & securely ti$ & numb]$4 ,?is /it*+ dep>tm5t is "o 9 :i* female labor is g5]ally employ$1 al?\gh 9 late ye>s m m5 are be+ us$ to op]ate ma*9es1 especially on vamp+ or o!r heavy p>ts4 ,9 "s p>ts ( ! c\ntry x is call$ ! fitt+ room4 ,! "w ( ! dep>tm5t consi/s ( /it*+ ! diff]5t p>ts ( ! upp] toge!r1 s t x is ready to put on ! la/4 ,! t]ms us$ mean 9 mo/ cases /it*+ ! "p nam$ to ! re/ ( ! upp]4 ,!re are v _m op]ations 9 ! dep>tm5t1 sev]al ( :i* are nam$ bel[1 toge!r ) _! mean+4 ,! bundles ( pieces :i* h come f ! cutt+ room are plac$ on ! table1 :]e !y are subdivid$ into ?ree p>ts1 ! l9+s1 ! tops1 ! vamps & ! tips4 ,! l9+s = ! tops ( ! %oes are pa/$ toge!r 7) ! back /rap & top b&s71 c>e be+ tak5 to jo9 !m at ! m>ks made = t purpose4 ,aft] be+ dri$1 !y g into ! h&s ( ! ma*9e op]ators1 :]e !y are jo9$ toge!r by a /it*+ ma*9e1 & ! edges1 etc41 trimm$4 ,! sew+ ma*9es us$ are v simil> to an ord9>y home sew+ ma*9e1 ) ! exception t !y are mu* l>g] & /rong]4 ,illu/ration3 ,/ock ,fitt+ ,room4 ,:]e all bottom /ock is prep>$ aft] be+ cut4 ,see page #abj4 ,! l9+ is f9i%$4 ,! next /ep is to jo9 ! l9+ to ! piece ( lea!r mak+ up ! outside ( ! same %ape1 call$ ! top4 ,! top receives ! eyelets by a ma*9e plac$ 9 prop] position4 ,! top & l9+ c be put toge!r by sew+ !m face to face4 ,! top is inspect$ & all ?reads clipp$ (f4 ,aft] ! %oe upp]s h be5 prop]ly /it*$ toge!r1 ! eyelets are plac$ on by a 8duplex eyelett+ ma*9e10 :i* eyelets bo? sides ( ! %oe at "o "t4 ,! top ( ! eyelets are solid black knobs1 s z n to we> brassy1 :ile ! bottom 7:i* cl9*es inside ! %oe7 call$ ! b>rel1 is ( nickel4 ,?is f9i%es ! %oe upp]4 ,! vamp1 tongues1 & tip are !n put toge!r4 ,! edges ( ! vamps1 qu>t]s1 tips1 etc41 are cov]$ ) a cem5t made ( rubb] & naph?a1 :i* is kept 9 small b[ls on ! b5*es 9 front ( employees4 ,sev]al grades ( cem5ts are us$4 ,! cem5t$ p>ts are all[$ to dry1 & ! edges are !n turn$ ov] by 8press+ ma*9es10 :i* gives a f9i%$ appe>ance4 ,! %oe is put toge!r by /it*+ ! vamp to ! qu>t]s4 ,?is "w is done by bo? m5 & wom51 & is "w :i* dem&s mu* c>e4 ,9 /it*+ m5's upp]s1 ! sy/em v>ies 9 v>i\s factories z mu* z x does on wom5's4 ,"h are "s ( ! op]ations1 :i* w give an idea h[ m5's upp]s g ?r\gh4 ,ext5sion or toe piece sew$ to vamp4 ,lea!r box /it*$ on4 ,tip /it*$ to vamp4 ,vamp seam$ up back4 ,top fold$ ar\nd edge4 ,top seam$ up4 ,eyelet r[ /it*$ up & d[n4 ,l9+ seam$ up4 ,side fac+ put on l9+4 ,top fac+ put on l9+4 ,l9+ & outside pa/$ toge!r4 ,"u trimm+4 ,eyelett+4 ,hook+4 ,vamp+4 ,! upp] is complete :5 x leaves ! /it*+ room & is all ready to be put on ! la/4 ,:ile ! upp] is be+ prep>$1 ! soles1 insoles1 c\nt]s1 & heels are made 9 o!r dep>tm5ts4 ,:5 ! =eman ( ?is dep>tm5t has receiv$ ! tags ) ! data necess>y = ! prep>ation ( outsoles1 insoles1 c\nt]s1 toe boxes1 & heels1 !y are s5t to ! /ock room1 :]e ^! p>ts are kept4 ,! soles are r\ghly cut out by means ( dies1 press+ d[n ?r\gh ! lea!r1 9 8die+ out ma*9es40 ,be=e ! soles are cut1 ! lea!r is dipp$ 9 wat] & suffici5tly damp5$4 ,aft] !y are cut out1 !y are made to con=m to ! exact %ape by r\nd+ !m 9 a ma*9e call$ ! 8r\nd+ ma*9e40 ,! r\ghly di$ out piece ( lea!r is held betwe5 clamps1 "o ( :i* is ! exact patt]n ( ! sole4 ,! ma*9e works a little knife t d>ts ar\nd ?is patt]n1 cutt+ ! sole exactly to con=m4 ,! outsole is n[ pass$ to a heavy roll+ ma*9e1 :]e x is press$ by tons ( pressure betwe5 heavy rolls4 ,?is takes ! place ( ! hamm]+ :i* ! old-"t %oemak] gave 8 lea!r to br+ ! fib]s v closely toge!r1 s z to increase its we>4 ,c\nt]s & toe boxes 7/iff5+ :i* is plac$ betwe5 ! heel & toe cap & ! vamp ( %oe7 are prep>$ 9 ! same room ) ! heels4 ,aft] !y are made1 !y are s5t to ! mak+ or bottom+ room1 :]e ! %oe upp] is await+ !m4 ,z ! c\nt] is an important feature 9 ! life ( a %oe1 mu* dep5ds ^u ! quality ( lea!r t goes into x4 ,! sole is next f$ to a 8splitt+ ma*9e10 :i* r$uces x to an absolutely ev5 ?ickness4 ,! insole is made ( light] lea!r ?an ! outsole1 b has ! same ?ickness & is cut out 9 ! same way "o at a "t4 ,! sizes are /amp$ on !m & !y are sort$4 ,illu/ration3 ,la/+4 ,page #abg4 ,illu/ration3 ,welt+4 ,if y exam9e a ,goodye> welt %oe1 y w notice no /it*es 9 sight1 ! seam be+ fa/5$ to an "u portion ( ! insole4 ,! durability ( ! %oe relies1 to a great ext5t1 on ! quality & /r5g? ( ! insole4 ,! smoo?-appe>+ insole ( a welt %oe mu/ be ei!r pa/$ 9 or fa/5$ und]nea? 9 "s mann]4 ,?is fa/5+ is accompli%$ by pass+ ! insole ?r\gh a v small ma*9e call$ a ,goodye> *annel]1 :i* makes two incisions at "o op]ation4 ,x cuts a little slit along ! edge ( ! insole1 ext5d+ ab\t "o-half in* t[>d its c5t]4 ,! upp] "p ( insole made by ! slit on ! edge is turn$ up on a lip turn+ ma*9e s t x ext5ds out at "r angles f ! insole4 ,9 o!r words1 ! *annel is op5$ up & laid back1 =m+ a ridge ar\nd ! out] edge ( ! sole4 ,?is =ms a lip or %\ld]1 aga9/ :i* ! welt is sew$4 ,9 ?is way ! ?read us$ 9 sew+ _c be se5 9 ! f9i%$ %oe4 ,! cut made on ! surface s]ves z guide = ! op]ator ( ! welt sew+ ma*9e :5 ! %oe rea*es him4 ,! inn] & out] soles z well z ! upp]s are n[ br\ght into ! la/+ or gang room4 ,! fir/ "p ( la/+ is call$ 8assembl+10 :i* means t _m p>ts are br\ght toge!r1 su* z upp]1 c\nt]1 insole1 box toe1 & la/4 ,! c\nt] is plac$ 9 ! upp]1 betwe5 l9+ & vamp1 :ile ! box toe is %ellack$ & put 9 ! toe ( ! upp] 7provid$ x has n be5 /it*$ 9 ! /it*+ room74 ,! op]ator fir/ tacks ! inn] sole on to a wood5 la/4 ,!re are v _m diff]5t /yles ( la/s1 & 9 cutt+ upp]s a diff]5t patt]n mu/ be us$ = ea* /yle4 ,!n ! upp] is plac$ 9 position on ! la/1 & x is ready to be pull$ & /ret*$ to ! wood & take its requir$ %ape4 ,?is is accompli%$ by plac+ ! %oes on ! 8pull+ ov] ma*9e10 :]e ! %oe upp]s are correctly plac$ on ! la/ by ! p9c]s ( a ma*9e hold+ ! lea!r at diff]5t po9ts securely aga9/ ! wood ( ! la/4 ,by ! movem5ts ( lev]s ! %oe upp]s are adju/$ correctly4 ,!n ! p9c]s draw ! lea!r securely ar\nd ! la/ & at ! same "t two tacks on ea* side & at ! toe are driv5 9 "p way1 to hold ! upp]s securely4 ,x is n[ plac$ on ! 8h& me?od la/+ ma*9e10 :]e ! lea!r is drawn tightly ar\nd ! la/4 ,be=e ?is op]ation1 x is dipp$ 9 wat] to pres]ve its %ape :5 =m$ & t x may be m easily =m$ by ! ma*9e4 ,at ea* pull ( ! p9c]s a small tack1 driv5 automatically "p way 91 holds ! edge ( ! upp] exactly 9 place1 s t e "p ( ! upp] has be5 /ret*$ 9 all directions equally4 ,a special ma*9e by means ( a s]ies ( 8wip]s0 is us$ to la/ ! toe & heel4 ,aft] ! lea!r has be5 br\ght smoo?ly ar\nd ! toe1 x is held !re by a little tape fa/5$ on ea* side ( ! toe1 :i* is held securely 9 place by ! surplus lea!r1 crimpl$ 9 at ?is po9t4 ,! surplus lea!r crimpl$ 9 at ! heel is =c$ smoo?ly d[n aga9/ ! insole & held !re by tacks driv5 by an +5i\s h& tool4 ,9 all ^! la/+ op]ations ! tacks are only driv5 9 "p way1 s !y may aft]w>ds be )drawn & leave ! inside p]fectly smoo?1 except at ! heel ( ! %oe1 :]e !y are driv5 into ! iron heel ( ! la/ & cl9*$4 ,illu/ration3 ,r\gh ,r\nd+4 ,see page #aca4 ,illu/ration3 ,edge ,trimm+4 ,see page #acj4 ,aft] ^! op]ations1 ! surplus lea!r at ! toe & sides ( ! %oe is remov$ by ! 8upp] trimm+ ma*9e10 :i* cuts x away by means ( a little knife & leaves x v smoo? & ev54 ,a small hamm] op]at+ 9 connection ) ! knife p\nds ! lea!r on ! same p>ts4 ,a p\nd+ ma*9e hamm]s ! lea!r & c\nt] ar\nd ! heel s t ! /iff position con=ms exactly to ! la/4 ,aft] ! 8la/$0 %oe has be5 trimm$ & p\nd$ d[n to ! %ape ( ! la/1 x is turn$ ov] to ! tack sett]1 :o pulls out all ! tacks except a few1 call$ draft tacks4 ,! insole is !n wet to make x pliable1 & is turn$ ov] to a v exp]i5c$ op]ator1 call$ ! 8inseam]10 :o is to sew ! welt on4 ,! %oe is n[ ready to receive a n>r[ /rip ( prep>$ lea!r1 t is sew$ aft] x is wet to make x pliable1 along ! edge ( ! %oe1 beg9n+ :]e ! heel is plac$ & end+ at ! same spot on ! opposite edge4 ,?is is call$ ! welt1 & is sew$ f ! inside lip ( ! insole1 s t ! curv$ ne$le passes ?r\gh ! lip1 ! upp]1 & ! welt1 unit+ all ?ree securely & all[+ ! welt to protrude beyond ! edge ( ! %oe4 ,! ?read is v /\t l951 & is pass$ ?r\gh a pan ( hot wax be=e be+ loop$ into *a9 /it* t holds ! %oe toge!r4 ,! nature ( ! /it* is a *a9--two r[s ( ?reads on ! outside t loop ) ! s+le ?read 9 ! inside lip ( ! insole4 ,:5 ! welt is f9ally sew$ on1 & ! %oe put d[n on ! b5*1 x looks l an ord9>y %oe re/+ on a wide flange ( lea!r4 ,?is flange is ! welt1 & to x ! heavy out] sole is to be sew$ fa/4 ,%\ld a s+le /it* break 9 ?is op]ation1 x is pass$ to a cobbl]1 :o repairs x by h&4 ,be=e ! out] sole is put on1 ! edges ( ! upp]s mu/ be trimm$ along ! seam t holds ! welt4 ,a slip ( /eel call$ /eel %ank is laid along ! insole :]e ! holl[ ( ! foot is1 & a piece ( lea!r bo>d laid ov] ?is to give ! necess>y /iffness & prev5t ! %oe f d\bl+ up4 ,z ! welt has left a holl[ space along ! ball ( ! foot1 x is necess>y to fill ?is up1 ei!r ) a piece ( lea!r1 tann$ felt1 or o!r fill]4 ,felt is n wat]pro(1 & lea!r squeaks1 h5ce a mixture ( gr\nd cork & rubb] cem5t is us$4 ,?is is heat$ & spread on ! sole1 & run ov] a hot roll] until ! bottom ( ! %oe is p]fectly smoo? & ev54 ,! %oes are plac$ on a rack & are ready = ! outsole4 ,sole fa/5+ is p]=m$ by a numb] ( op]ations1 9 :i* a score or m ( sep>ate ma*9es are us$4 ,! sole lay]s sme> a rubb] cem5t ov] ?is welt ) a 8cem5t+ ma*9e10 aft] ! outsole has be5 soak$ 9 wat] to make x pliable1 & !n place x on ! %oe & tack a s+le nail 9 ! heel4 ,! 8sole lay+ ma*9e10 ?r\gh great pressure1 cem5ts ! sole on & fits x to e curve ( ! la/4 ,!n ! sole is trimm$ by a 8r\gh r\nd+ ma*9e10 :i* trims ! soles to ! %ape ( ! la/4 ,?is ma*9e also *annels ! out] sole at ! same "t1 :i* is necess>y = ! next op]ation4 ,! 8*annel op5+ ma*9e0 n[ turns up ! lips ( ! *annel & ! sole is ready to be /it*$ to ! welt4 ,! outsole is n[ sew$ by a wax$ ?read to ! welt1 by an 8outsole lock /it* ma*9e10 :i* is simil> to a welt sew+ ma*9e4 ,! /it* is f9] & ext5ds f ! slit 7*annel7 to ! upp] side ( ! welt1 :]e x %[s aft] ! %oe has be5 f9i%$4 ,x unites ! sole & welt ) a tightly drawn lock /it* ( rem>kable /r5g?4 ,x sews ?r\gh an in* ( lea!r z easily z a woman w\ld sew ?r\gh a piece ( clo?4 ,! /it*es are made ?r\gh ! welt & out] sole1 ! seam runn+ 9 ! *annel ( ! outsole4 ,illu/ration3 ,level+4 ,see page #ace4 ,illu/ration3 ,heel+4 ,see page #acf4 ,! inside ( ! slit 9 :i* ?is /it* has j be5 made is n[ coat$ ) cem5t by means ( a bru%4 ,! *annel lip is =c$ back to its orig9al position aft] ! cem5t has dri$1 by a rapidly revolv+ :eel ( a 8*annel lay+ ma*9e40 ,9 ?is way ! /it*es are hidd54 ,welt %oes are /it*$ on 9 ?ree diff]5t ways3 8*annel$10 :i*1 :5 f9i%$1 leaves an invisible /it* on ! bottom ( ! sole2 8regul> /it*$ al(t10 %[+ ! /it*es on bo? sides2 & 8fudge /it*$10 9 :i* ! seam is sunk d[n 9 a groove1 be+ almo/ invisible f ! welt side4 ,e /it* mu/ be ( su* a nature t x is indep5d5t ( ! "o next to x1 s t %\ld "o /it* break1 ! o!rs w n "w loose4 ,?is is accompli%$ by runn+ ! ?reads ?r\gh a pan ( hot wax j be=e ent]+ ! lea!r1 :i* causes ! wax$ ?read to solidify1 becom+1 z x 71 a "p ( ! lea!r4 ,notice %\ld be tak5 ( ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! way ! outsole is /it*$ & ! inn] sole is /it*$ to ! upp]4 ,9 place ( ?ree ?reads 9 ! *a9 /it* 8t holds ! welt to ! upp] & insole0 !re are b two "h--an upp] & a l[] "o4 ,! upp] ?read ext5ds only "p way d[n1 :]e x loops1 twi/s1 & locks into ! l[] ?read4 ,?is is ! reason :y y c we> a welt sole cle> ?r\gh )\t its pull+ loose4 ,%oes t are /it*$ al(t g ?r\gh ! same op]ations z ! *annel-/it*$ %oes1 ) ! exception t ! r\nd+ ma*9e contrivance ( cutt+ is elim9at$4 ,%oes t are to be fudge /it*$ are s5t ?r\gh ! same ma*9e z ! regul> /it*$ al(t1 b an additional little knife po9t on ! arm ( ! ,goodye> /it*] digs a *annel 9 ! welt s t ! /it*es on t side are sunk into ! lea!r4 ,! outsole is nail$ at ! heel aft] ! /it*+ on ! 8loose nail+ ma*9e10 :i* drives ! nails ?r\gh ! outsole & insole & cl9*es aga9/ ! /eel plate ( ! la/4 ,! ma*9e drives sep>ate nails f$ f ! hopp] ( any desir$ size or l5g?1 at ! rate ( ?ree hundr$ & fifty p] m9ute4 ,! edge ( ! outsole ar\nd ! heel is n[ trimm$ to con=m exactly to ! %ape ( ! heel on ! 8heel seat p\nd+ ma*9e40 ,! /it*es ( ! regul> /it*$ %oes are sep>at$ by a s]ies ( ind5tations1 giv+ ! %oe t corrugat$ effect :i* adds s mu* to ! appe>ance ( ! %oe4 ,9 ! fudge-/it*$ "w ! /it*es are entirely cov]$ up by ! ind5tations4 ,!n a level+ ma*9e1 call$ ! 8automatic sole level+ ma*9e10 ) a pressure ( ab\t two & a half tons to ea* ( ! concave roll]s1 comes into play4 ,! rolls move automatically back & =? & f side to side1 do+ ! "w t ! %oemak] us$ to d on 8 lap ) a hamm] & /one1 b do+ x bett] & m quickly4 ,x practically levels (f ! bottom ( ! soles4 ,an automatic guage regulates exactly ! di/ance f ! edge ( ! la/1 & by ! use ( ?is ma*9e ! op]ator is enabl$ to make a sole con=m to t ( all o!rs ( a simil> design & size4 ,heels are =m$ by cem5t+ diff]5t lifts ( lea!r4 ,a ma*9e call$ a 8heel cutt]0 %apes out ! lifts4 ,! heel is !n plac$ "u pressure1 giv+ x exact =m & greatly increas+ its we>4 ,illu/ration3 ,sole ,sc\r+4 ,see page #ach4 ,illu/ration3 ,heel ,%ap+4 ,see page #ach4 ,9 speak+ ( ! ends & sides ( a heel1 ! "p t re/s on ! gr\nd is spok5 ( z ! top1 & ! fir/ piece is call$ ! top lift4 ,! "p t is fa/5$ to ! %oe is spok5 ( z ! bottom1 :ile ! side ne>e/ ! toes is call$ ! brea/4 ,! w$ge is a flat1 heel-%ap$ piece or lift ( lea!r t is skiv$ to a ?9 edge at ! brea/4 ,be+ ?ick] at ! back1 x tips ! heel =w>d4 ,w$ges are made f ?9 /rips ( wa/e lea!r1 or f %eets ( lea!r bo>d1 & are cut out ) a holl[ die4 ,! g\ges are cut 9 ! sole lea!r room f scraps1 & are a regul> heel lift1 hav+ a horse%oe-%ap$ piece ( lea!r ) an op5+ at ! brea/4 ,! sole lea!r1 insoles1 c\nt]s1 & heels1 9 ! /ock fitt+ dep>tm5t are 8got out0 by be+ cut into %ape by a ma*9e die4 ,! heel is n[ trimm$ ( all r\gh & surplus portions ( lea!rs to ! exact size ( top lift4 ,a bl[] atta*$ to ! ma*9e removes all scraps1 etc4 ,! brea/ ( ! heel1 :i* faces ! =ep>t ( ! %oe1 is trimm$ ev5ly across & ) ! desir$ slant by means ( a peculi>-%ap$ knife :i* ext5ds ov] ! sole at %ank4 ,! edges ( ! heel are n[ sc\r$ by revolv+ rolls ) mold$ s&pap] to make p]fectly smoo?4 ,bl[]s atta*$ to ! ma*9e remove all du/4 ,!re are sev]al types ( ma*9es = fa/5+ ! heel to ! %oe1 all v rapid 9 op]ation4 ,"o ( ! late/ is t :i* fe$s ! nails1 & :i* is op]at$ by a man & boy1 :o toge!r turn (f a great quantity ( "w4 ,! nails are left protrud+ slightly above ! heel s z to reta9 ! top lift1 :i* is n[ plac$ 9 position by ! same op]ator on ! same ma*9e4 ,x is press$ d[n ov] ! heads ( ! nails secur+ x 9 position4 ,! small brass or /eel nails :i* protect & ornam5t ! heel are n[ driv5 9 by ! 8univ]sal slugg+ ma*9e40 ,?is ma*9e cuts ! slugs f a coil ( wire & drives !m 9 ) great rapidity4 ,we h practically n[ a r\ghly =m$ %oe ready = ! f9i%+ room4 ,"h ! heel slugs are gr\nd d[n1 heel & sole buff$ by s&pap] rolls on a sc\r+ ma*9e1 wet d[n1 /a9$1 or black$1 z case may be1 f9i%$ on bri/le bru%es1 plac$ to dry1 poli%$ by a poli%+ ma*9e1 bottom /amp$ ) ! tradem>k1 & pass$ to an op]ator ^: duty x is to see t no tacks are left inside ! %oes4 ,g5]ally girls are hir$ to d ?is1 z _! h&s are small] & x is v important t no tacks are left1 :i* might cause a great deal ( tr\ble4 ,if any are f\nd1 !y are cut out ) nipp]s or o!rwise remov$4 ,a l9+ is also g5]ally put inside ! %oe1 cov]+ ! :ole ( ! insole 9 a ,mc,kay %oe1 & ! heel only 9 a ,goodye> %oe4 ,%oes mu/ also be inspect$ "h be=e !y are pack$1 to see if !y are p]fect 9 e way & t ea* %oe is a p]fect mate 9 ! pair4 ,! %oes are n[ s5t to ! la/ dep>tm5t1 call$ tree+1 dress+1 & pack+ dep>tm5t4 ,?is dep>tm5t has to d ) ! f9i%+ ( ! upp]s4 ,! bottoms & edges are all f9i%$ :5 %oes get to ?is dep>tm5t1 & no?+ rema9s b to f9i% ! upp]s & pack ! %oes 9 s+le-pair c>tons & !n 9 wood5 boxes or cases4 ,! diff]5t upp]s are all f9i%$ by a diff]5t process1 "s be+ iron$ ) a hot iron1 :i* is done to take out ! wr9kles & smoo? ! upp]s4 ,iron+ 0 fir/ introduc$ on kid %oes1 b 9 rec5t ye>s ! hot iron has be5 put on ne>ly all k9ds ( /ock4 ,a %oe mu/ be on a =m or tree :5 iron$1 ! =m or tree be+ ! same %ape z ! la/4 ,! :ole idea 9 iron+ is ! same z t foll[$ by ! tailor1 :o uses a hot iron to press & smoo? out clo!s4 ,! op]ations 9 detail are z foll[s3-- ,illu/ration3 ,iron+4 ,illu/ration3 ,pack+4 ,ea* %oe is tre$1 aft] hav+ be5 drawn ov] a foot =m simil> to t on :i* ! %oe 0 la/$1 & any /a9 or dirt :i* may h be5 c>elessly put on 9 =m] op]ations is clean$ (f2 ! %oe is spong$ ) a gum prep>$ = ei!r black or tan goods1 rubb$ d[n dull1 & !n rubb$ to a poli%4 ,9 _m pat5t lea!r %oes ! tree+ is to clean (f ! surface1 z we said be=e1 & !n to iron x ) a hot iron1 :i* takes out all /a9s1 & leaves ! lea!r %9y & black4 ,! %oes f9ally g to h& op]ators1 :o rag ! edges & heels1 leav+ !m ready to be lac$ & put into ! boxes4 ,aft] lac+1 ! %oes are pass$ to inspectors1 ^: duty x is to see t !y are p]fect1 to ?r[ out all :i* are n1 make a record ( !m1 & pass ! p]fect %oes to ! pack]s1 :o see t ! sizes are "r1 t ea* pair is mat$1 & plac$ 9 pap] c>tons1 ready to be pack$ 9 wood5 cases = %ipm5t4 ,! pack+ ( c>tons into wood5 cases is done by m5 :o nail on ! lid :5 ea* case is full1 m>k :]e goods are to be s5t1 make a record ( same & load ! cases into freight c>s4 ,!re are o!r upp]s t are tre$1 su* z wax calf1 = in/ance1 & split upp]s1 :i* are us$ 9 heavy %oes4 ,! ma9 idea ( tree+ a %oe is to give x a smoo? & f9i%$ appe>ance & a good 8feel40 ,9 ! regul> tree+ op]ation !y use liquid prep>ations1 (t5 call$ composition1 & ^! are work$ into ! upp]1 fill+ x to "s ext5t4 ,fr5* *alk is us$ a great deal 9 "s upp]s1 & oil or "s =m ( grease or gum is also us$1 all ( :i* make ! upp] z x 0 :5 fir/ put on ! cutt+ bo>d ( ! %oe factory4 ,all "w done 9 ?is room is int5d$ to give lea!r its orig9al lu/]1 :i* has be5 lo/ to a c]ta9 ext5t 9 go+ ?r\gh ! diff]5t rooms & 9 be+ h&l$ s mu*4 ,!re are /ill o!r upp]s t may n be tre$ or iron$ b m]ely clean$ & poli%$ to give lu/]4 ,"s ( ^! may be dress$4 ,to dress a %oe means to put on a liquid dress+4 ,9 "s cases two coats ( dress+ are put on & 9 o!r cases "o coat4 ,a %oe c h a dull dress+ or a bright dress+1 accord+ to h[ ! buy] pref]s to h 8 %oes look4 ,,*apt] ,,sev5 ,mc,k,a,y ,,& ,,turn$ ,,%oes ,! ,mc,kay process is us$ v ext5sively 9 ! manufacture ( *eap %oes4 ,its introduction 0 a great improvem5t ov] ! nail+ & pegg+ ( ! soles to ! upp]s4 ,x all[s ! two to be /it*$ toge!r by means ( a /raight ne$le runn+ ?r\gh ! entire ?ickness ( upp]1 sole1 & insole4 ,9 foll[+ ! ,mc,kay process ?r\gh ! factory1 we f9d x v simil> to ! ,goodye> welt process1 :i* has be5 expla9$1 ! ma9 diff]5ce be+ 9 ! me?ods ( fa/5+ ! sole to ! upp]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,cross ,sections ( ,welt ,%oe & ,mc,kay ,sew$ ,%oe4 ,! la/s & patt]ns are obta9$ 9 ! same mann] z describ$ 9 ! previ\s *apt]4 ,! ord] is made out 9 ! factory (fice1 & ! ticket is giv5 to ! sort]1 :o selects ! requir$ numb] ( sk9s1 :i* he rolls 9 a bundle & turns ov] to ! cutt]4 ,! cutt]s =m ! v>i\s pieces ( lea!r & l9+s1 :i* are ti$ up 9 bundles & s5t to ! /it*+ room4 ,"h !y pass ?r\gh ! v>i\s sew+ ma*9es1 f9ally com+ out 9 ! =m ( a complete upp] ready to be atta*$ to ! bottoms4 ,! soles1 insoles1 c\nt]s1 & heels = ,mc,kay %oes are all =m$ 9 ! same room1 z describ$ 9 ! ,goodye> process4 ,!re is a diff]5ce 9 mak+ ready ! outsoles & insoles4 ,x w be recall$ t ! outsole = ! ,goodye> welt %oe 0 simply a block ( lea!r cut to fit ! %oe & 0 n *annel$4 ,! outsole = ! ,mc,kay %oe is run ?r\gh a *annel+ ma*9e1 :i* cuts a slit ar\nd ! edge ( ! sole1 folds ! lea!r back1 & digs a little tr5* along ! inside ( ! slit4 ,x w also be rememb]$ t ! insole ( ! ,goodye> welt %oe 0 *annel$ ) two slits1 "o ( :i* 0 turn$ back to =m ! brea/ = sew+ on ! welt /rip4 ,! insole ( a ,mc,kay %oe is n *annel$ 9 any way1 b is left pla91 l ! outsole ( ! ,goodye> welt4 ,! upp]s1 ! soles1 insoles1 c\nt]s1 & heels all hav+ be5 made ready1 ! pieces are tak5 to ! la/+ room4 ,! fir/ process is call$ 8assembl+40 ,! op]ator takes up "o ( ! upp]s1 ins]ts ! la/1 /icks 9 a c\nt] betwe5 ! l9+ & ! outside1 puts 9 a 8box0 7a /\t piece ( canvas to give /ability to ! toe7 at ! toe1 b5ea? ! tip1 puts 9 ! insole1 & !n may pull ! %oe tight on ! la/ or give x to ! op]ator on ! pull+ ov] ma*9e to h x done4 ,! pull+ ov] ma*9e is n[ us$ 9 ne>ly all factories1 hav+ displac$ h& pull+ ! same z ! la/+ ma*9es h displac$ h& la/+4 ,! assembl+1 pull+1 & la/+ on ! ma*9e are all p>ts ( ! regul> op]ation ( la/+4 ,! h& la/] _h to d all ?ree p>ts 9 =m] times1 b n[ !re are ma*9es to d ne>ly ev]y?+1 & at ! pres5t "t ! op]ation ( la/+ is divid$ into assembl+1 pull+ ov]1 & la/+ on ! ma*9e4 ,b ev5 ^! ma*9es d n d x all1 z !re is surplus upp] to be cut away1 toes to be p\nd$ d[n1 & fill+ to be put 9 ! bottom1 all ( :i* are done on a ,mc,kay %oe be=e ! sole c be laid4 ,!re are ma*9es to d ^! p>ts1 too4 ,a trimm] 7?is is done by h&7 n[ takes ! %oe1 trims (f all ! surplus lea!r1 tacks 9 ! %ank 7a little piece ( /eel to give rigidity to ! %ank ( ! sole71 fills all up smoo?ly & !n passes x to ! sole lay]1 :o puts on ! out] sole & tacks x 9 place4 ,! la/ is n[ pull$ out ( ! %oe & x is ready = ! ,mc,kay sew+ ma*9e4 ,?is ma*9e sews "r ?r\gh ! inn] & out] sole1 & at ! same "t cat*es ! edges ( ! upp] lea!r & ! l9+ 9 betwe5 ! two & draws !m all snugly & firmly toge!r4 ,! /it*es are made "r along 9 ! *annel ( ! out] sole1 :i* is deep en\gh to admit ! r[ ( /it*es )\t rais+ a ridge on ! outside ( ! sole1 aft] ! *annel is clos$ up & level$4 ,! *annel is next fill$ ) cem5t & pass$ on to ! level]1 :i* turns d[n ! loos5$ flap ( lea!r1 presses x all out smoo?1 & cov]s ! seam up s completely t no trace ( ! sew+ is to be se54 ,?is little fold$-ov] flap ( lea!r s]ves ! d\ble purpose ( hid+ ! /it*es 9 ! sole1 & at ! same "t protect+ !m f we> aga9/ ! gr\nd4 ,illu/ration3 ,/it*+4 ,illu/ration3 ,tack+4 ,! %oe is !n ready to be heel$1 & f "h to ! %ipp+ door ! ,mc,kay g5]ally goes ?r\gh ! same process z a welt4 ,aft] heel+1 ! ,mc,kay %oes are rela/$ or h foll[]s put 9 to keep !m 9 %ape :ile go+ ?r\gh4 ,! sock l9+ may be put 9 "h1 too1 be=e rela/+1 or x may n be put 9 till ! %oes get to ano!r room4 ,! ,mc,kay la/+ la/ mu/ be pull$ f ! %oe to h ! bottoms & heels put on & ?is also applies to a pegg$ or nail$ %oe4 ,b 9 ! case ( a welt %oe or a turn %oe1 bo? /ay on ! orig9al la/ until ! bottoms & heels h be5 fa/5$ on4 ,! turn %oe be+ la/$ inside out1 mu/ come (f ! la/ to be turn$ "r side out1 & x goes "r on ! la/ z soon z x c be turn$4 ,! diff]5t me?ods ( fa/5+ ! bottoms con/itute ! ma9 diff]5ce betwe5 ,goodye> & turn %oes on ! "o h&1 & ,mc,kay1 pegg$1 & nail$ on ! o!r4 ,! bottom /ock mu/ be prep>$ diff]5tly 9 ord] to fit ! me?ods4 ,?us x is se5 t only two dep>tm5ts are affect$1 namely1 ! sole lea!r & ! mak+ dep>tm5ts4 ,9 ! cutt+1 /it*+1 f9i%+1 tree+1 & pack+1 all op]ations are practically ! same on e %oe1 no matt] h[ x is bottom$4 ,! patt]ns1 h[ev]1 by :i* %oes are cut may be diff]5t4 ,9 ! f9i%+ room all ( ! f9i%+ ( ! bottoms & heel edges is done4 ,! heels are s&pap]$ or sc\r$1 & are !n black$ & poli%$ "u hot-iron pressure4 ,consid]able wax is us$ on ! edge & is melt$ by ! hot iron4 ,heel edges may also be f9i%$ on a :eel or roll4 ,!re are sev]al diff]5t ways1 b ! object ( ea* me?od is to give a h>d1 black1 & highly poli%$ surface to ! edge4 ,9 f9i%+ ! bottom ! top lift is sc\r$ or buff$1 & all ( ! sole & ! brea/ ( ! heel also4 ,ea* is a diff]5t process1 a diff]5t op]ator att5d+ to ea* "p4 ,! object ( sc\r+ or buff+ ) s&pap] is to get a smoo? f\ndation = ! f9i%1 :i* is put on next1 & :i* may be all ! same color 9 all p>ts ( ! bottom or may h "o color 9 ! %ank & ano!r 9 ! =ep>t4 ,! /a9s & black+s are us$ on bottoms1 & ^! are br\ght to a high1 h>d gloss by means ( rolls & bru%es4 ,hot irons are (t5 us$ on black %anks & bottoms to give add$ h>dness & lu/] to ! f9i%4 ,! turn$ or turn %oe is a woman's f9e %oe t is made wrong side out1 !n turn$ "r side out4 ,! sole is fa/5$ to ! la/1 & ! upp] is twi/$ ov]1 ! wrong side out4 ,!n ! two are sew$ toge!r1 ! ?read cat*+ ?r\gh a *annel or %\ld] cut 9 ! edge ( ! sole4 ,! seam does n come ?r\gh to ! bottom ( ! sole1 nor to any "p inside :]e x w\ld *afe ! foot4 ,! prep>ation ( ! upp] = a turn %oe is id5tical ) t ( a welt or ,mc,kay1 ) ! exception t ! back is cut a little long] & a little l>g]1 9 ord] to la/ x ov] ! sole4 ,! important diff]5ce 9 ! make-up ( a turn %oe z comp>$ ) t ( a ,mc,kay or welt is t x has no insole1 ! upp] be+ sew$ directly to a portion ( ! sole itself4 ,z ! cutt+ ( ! upp]s & ! /it*+ op]ations ( a turn %oe are ! same z ! ,goodye> & ,mc,kay1 & h be5 expla9$1 we w take up ! =m+ ( ! sole1 :i* is entirely diff]5t f ei!r ( ! o!r two me?ods4 ,a turn %oe is put toge!r wrong side out1 & x is necess>y1 dur+ ! c\rse ( mak+1 to turn x by roll+ ! sole up l a roll ( c>pet4 ,x is evid5t1 !n1 t no?+ b good quality1 pliable lea!r c be us$ satisfactorily1 & great c>e is tak5 to include no?+ b ! be/4 ,! soles are cut out on ! beam ma*9es1 also previ\sly describ$4 ,!y are !n *annel$ on ! side t is next to ! foot4 ,?is *annel+ is simil> to t done on ! welt insole4 ,two incisions are made1 ! inside "o be+ ! same z 9 ! welt insoles4 ,! outside "o1 h[ev]1 is diff]5t1 z ! flange is cut (f squ>e in/ead ( be+ roll$ up4 ,?is leaves a *annel :i* beg9s at ! edge & surface ( ! sole & ext5ds 9 semicircul> =m to ! abrupt wall ( ! cut 9 ! sole1 :i* =ms ! brea/ aga9/ :i* ! upp] is to be sew$4 ,aft] ! soles are *annel$1 !y are soak$ until !y become s(t en\gh to roll up easily4 ,!y are !n plac$ on racks & kept 9 a damp room until ne$$4 ,a turn %oe is h& la/$ wrong side out4 ,fir/ ! upp]s are turn$ ) ! l9+ outside1 !n ! la/ is ins]t$ & also ! toe box+4 ,! sole is set /raight on ! la/ & is tack$ firmly to x4 ,! op]ator1 by aid ( h& pull]s1 draws ! upp] ov] ! sole & tacks x securely f a po9t :]e ! brea/ ( ! heel w re/ to :]e ! l>ge toe w ext5d1 & !n along ! same di/ance on ! o!r side4 ,! toe "p is next la/$ by ma*9]y1 a wire be+ fa/5$ at "o side & run ar\nd ! edge hold+ ! pull$-up p>ts ( ! upp] :i* has be5 /ret*$ tightly ov] ! la/4 ,! %oe is next pass$ ov] to ! ,goodye> inseam] op]ator1 :o sews ! upp] to ! sole1 ! ne$le pass+ d[n ?r\gh ! inside *annel1 ?r\gh ! sole lea!r1 out ?r\gh ! squ>e-cut *annel & !n ?r\gh ! upp]1 unit+ ! upp] to ! sole ) ! *a9 /it*4 ,9 fact1 ! bottom ( a turn %oe at ?is "t looks exactly l ! bottom ( a welt1 ) ! exception t ! turn %oe is /ill turn$ wrong side out4 ,! nature ( ! /it* is ! same--a wax$1 ?read$ *a91 ) two r[s ( ?read on ! outside t loop ) ! s+le ?read 9 ! inside lip ( ! insole4 ,! %oe is sew$ only f ! back ( ! %ank to ! toe1 ! heel "p /ill be+ loose4 ,! seam is n[ trimm$ ) an inseam trimm]1 a ma*9e ) a revolv+1 jagg$-edg$ knife t saws (f ! surplus portions ( ! upp]1 leav+ x smoo? & ev5 ) ! sole4 ,! tacks are all pull$ out ) a sort ( a nail pull]1 :i* works rapidly & automatically4 ,! la/s are !n tak5 out & ! %oe is turn$ "r side out4 ,?is turn+ process is n a difficult "o1 b x is p]haps ! mo/ int]e/+ op]ation t ! layman w see 9 ! entire factory4 ,! op]ation is accompli%$ by means ( a rigid iron b> set slantwise 9 a table4 ,! upp] is turn$ "r side out by h& & ! sole is roll$ "r side out by means ( pressure on ?is b>4 ,aft] ?is turn+ process1 :i* twi/s & rolls ! %oe out ( %ape1 x has no semblance ( its f9al =m4 ,! back "p ( ! sole & upp] are /ill loose1 ! upp] be+ fa/5$ f ! %ank to ! toe4 ,! turn %oe mu/ be 8second0 la/$1 & ! ins]t+ ( ! la/ is no easy matt]4 ,a contrivance call$ a pu% jack assi/s ! op]ator greatly4 ,he uses a flat1 n>r[ rod to smoo? out ! l9+1 & aft] squeez+1 pu%+1 & smoo?+1 ! la/ is f9ally made to fit 9 ! %oe4 ,! c\nt] is plac$ 9 at ?is "t1 ! %ank piece is set 9 place1 & ! %oe & la/ are plac$ on a jack = nail+4 ,! back "p upp] is n[ /ret*$ tightly ov] ! heel "p ( ! la/ by means ( la/+ pull]s1 & is tack$ d[n1 ! nails go+ ?r\gh ! %ank piece & cl9*+ aga9/ ! anvil heel seat ( ! la/4 ,?is op]ation completes ! la/+1 ! %oe n[ hav+ a =m exactly l ! la/ ov] :i* x is made4 ,workm5 n[ level ! bottoms & =m ! %ank by a h& me?od1 prep>atory to ! ma*9e level+ process4 ,! %oe is /ill wet & is left to dry on ! la/ tw5ty-f\r h\rs4 ,!n x is run ?r\gh ! ma*9e call$ ! 8level]10 :i*1 ) its enorm\s pressure1 =ms ! sole to t ( ! la/4 ,! %oes are n[ left f\r days on ! la/s1 to dry ?or\ghly1 s t !y may reta9 _! %ape p]man5tly4 ,! putt+ on ( ! heel1 & ! v>i\s f9i%+ processes are practically ! same z t ( ! welt1 ) ! exception t a turn sole mu/ h a sock l9+4 ,"s factories use a gra9 lea!r sock l9+1 :i* is pa/$ 91 cov]+ up ! *annels ( ! sole :i* hold ! /it*es & =m+ a smoo? surface = ! foot to re/ ^u4 ,! diff]5ce betwe5 a ,mc,kay & a turn %oe may be told by ! fact t ! /it*+ on ! inside ( ! sole is mu* clos] to ! edge 9 a turn4 ,ano!r ?+1 9 a turn %oe1 ! seam connect+ ! upp] & ! outsole c be se54 ,no?+ is likely to excel ! turn %oe = lightness & flexibility1 s9ce ! me?od ( mak+1 :]eby ! sole is /it*$ directly to ! upp]1 int]poses no ?ick or cumb]some mat]ial4 ,sole lea!r ( good quality is us$4 ,9 fact1 ! sole w\ld h to be n only /rong1 b ?9 & light1 or ! %oe c\ld n be turn$ 9 ! process ( manufacture )\t /ra9+ x & gett+ x out ( %ape4 ,,hi/ory ,,( ,,! ,,turn ,,%oe ,hi/ory /ates t prior to #ahde1 :i* m>k$ ! date ( ! introduction ( %oe ma*9]y1 mo/ ( ! %oes 7 sew$ by h&1 ! light] ones turn$ & ! heavi] ones welt$4 ,9 fact1 ! e>ly factories t began to spr+ up 9 ,new ,engl& ab\t ! beg9n+ ( ! c5tury1 7 m]ely cutt+ rooms & places = /or+ ! la/s & /ock4 ,"h ! upp]s1 soles1 & l9+s 7 cut by h& & !n giv5 out to p 9 ! vic9ity1 mo/ly f>m]s & fi%]m51 to be /it*$ toge!r & paid = at s mu* a doz54 ,su* 0 ! beg9n+ ( ! %oe indu/ry 9 ,new ,engl&4 ,hundr$s ( families add$ to _! res\rces 9 ?is way1 ! wom5 do+ ! light] "w & ! m5 ! heavi]4 ,9 fi%+ communities1 :]e m5 7 away mo/ ( ! "t 9 _! boats1 _! wives & daught]s1 :o /ay$ at home1 und]took ! light] grades ( %oemak+--! turn process4 ,?is 0 ! case 9 ! 8,nor? ,%ore0 t[ns l ,lynn1 ,hav]hill1 & ,m>blehead1 & ^! to-day1 keep+ to ! old traditions1 are ! great c5t]s = ! f9] turn-grades ( %oemak+1 :]eas ! 8,s\? ,%ore0 t[ns1 l ,brockton1 ,:itman1 ,ab+ton1 ,rockl&1 & ! ,weym\?s1 ) ! m5 at home all ! ye>1 came to make a specialty ( %oes = m51 & absorb$ ! heavi] "p ( ! gr[+ indu/ry4 ,) ! introduction ( ! ,goodye> turn ma*9e1 h[ev]1 ! h&work 0 gradually done away )1 al?\gh m h&work is done 9 ! turn process ?an 9 ei!r ! ,mc,kay or welt process4 ,,/&>d ,,screw ,,%oemak+ ,_m good qualities ( heavy %oes are made by ! /&>d screw me?od1 :i* diff]s f ! ,mc,kay me?od by hav+ ! outsole & insole fa/5$ toge!r ) a d\ble-?read$ wire1 :i* is screw$ ?r\gh & cut (f by ! ma*9e ! in/ant x rea*es ! inside ( ! %oe4 ,illu/ration3 ,cross ,section ( ,/&>d ,screw$ ,%oe4 ,a pegg$ %oe is made 9 mu* ! same way z ! /&>d screw1 except t wood5 pegs are us$ in/ead ( wire to fa/5 ! sole toge!r4 ,! nail$ me?od ( %oemak+ consi/s 9 nail+ ! soles toge!r ar\nd ! edge4 ,x is us$ pr9cipally = heavy1 *eap %oes4 ,,*apt] ,,eight ,,old-,,fa%ion$ ,,%oemak+ ,,& ,,repair+ ,! old-fa%ion$ %oemak] =m]ly made %oes by h& z foll[s3--,a la/1 :i* is a wood5 model ( a foot1 0 us$1 & pieces ( lea!r 7 pa/$ "h & !re on x s z to build up a model con=m+ to ! measurem5ts ( ! foot4 ,!n pap] patt]ns ( ! upp] lea!r 7 made f ! la/1 & f ^! ! upp] lea!rs 7 cut out ( tann$ calfsk9s & sew$ toge!r4 ,! lea!r = ! soles 0 cut out ( tann$ ox or /e] hide1 ! pieces be+ ! insole1 ! outsole1 & ! lifts ( ! heel4 ,! inn] soles 7 made ( s(t] lea!r4 ,sometimes split sole lea!rs 7 us$ = upp]s4 ,! %oemak] !n s(t5$ ! lea!r by /eep+ x 9 wat]1 until x 0 pliable & at ! same "t firm1 & w\ld cut l *eese4 ,! insoles 7 atta*$ to ! bottom ( a pair ( wood5 la/s1 & ! wet lea!r fa/5$ on ) la/+ tacks s z to mold x to ! la/4 ,:5 x 0 dry1 ! %oemak] ) p9c]s drew ! lea!r out until x _h tak5 ! exact =m ( ! bottom ( ! la/4 ,!n he r\nd$ ! soles by p>+ d[n ! edges close to ! la/1 & =m$ ar\nd ^! edges a small *annel or fea!r cut or slit ab\t an eigh? ( an in* 9 ! lea!r4 ,next he pi]c$ ! insoles all ar\nd ) a b5t awl1 :i* 8bit0 into1 b n ?r\gh1 ! lea!r1 & came out at ! *annel or fea!r edge4 ,! boots 7 !n la/$ by plac+ ! upp]s on ! la/s1 draw+ ! edges by means ( p9c]s tightly r\nd ! edge ( ! insoles4 ,!n !y 7 fa/5$ 9 portions ) la/+ tacks4 ,la/+ 0 consid]$ a v important op]ation1 = unless ! upp] 0 drawn smoo?ly & equally ov] ! la/1 leav+ nei!r a crease nor wr9kle1 ! =m w\ld be a failure4 ,a b& ( flexible lea!r ab\t an in* wide1 ) "o edge p>$1 0 !n plac$ 9 position ar\nd ! sides ( ! %oes1 up to ! heel or seat1 & ! mak] proce$$ to 8inseam10 by pass+ 8 awl ?r\gh ! holes1 already made 9 ! insole1 cat*+ ) x ! edge ( ! upp] & ! ?9 edge ( ! welt1 & sew+ all ?ree toge!r 9 "o flat seam1 ) a wax$ ?read4 ,! ?reads :i* %oemak]s use are call$ 8ends10 & are made ( two or m /r&s ( small flax5 ?reads4 ,! %oemak] makes 8 own wax$ ?read z foll[s3-- ,he holds ! ma9 "p ( ! ?read f ! spool1 9 8 left h&1 hold+ x firmly--:]e he wants to break x--betwe5 ! fir/ f+] & ?umb1 s t x w n turn beyond t po9t4 ,!n ) ! left h&1 he lays ! end ( ! flax on ! knee & rolls x f him4 ,?is w cause ! small fib]s t compose ! ?read to sep>ate--?us enabl+ him to break x easily4 ,:5 ! fib]s sep>ate1 he gives ! ?read a light1 quick turn1 :i* causes x to break4 ,z ! ?read breaks he pulls x ap>t gradually1 s t ! fib]s w tap]4 ,!n he places ! ?reads toge!r1 "o j beh9d ! o!r1 s t ! end w h a v f9e po9t4 ,he rolls ! end & all[s x to turn betwe5 ! f+]s ( ! left h&4 ,aft] x has be5 roll$ & twi/$1 x is wax$ by draw+ ! ?read ?r\gh a piece ( wax4 ,! f9e ends are wax$ to a po9t4 ,a bri/le is fa/5$ on 9 ! foll[+ mann]3 ! head ( ! bri/le is held 9 ! left h&1 & ! portion to :i* ! ?read is to be fa/5$ is wax$2 !n ! ?read & bri/le are twi/$ toge!r4 ,a hole is made 9 ! ?read & ! bri/le pull$ ?r\gh & fa/5$4 ,aft] ! ?reads are fa/5$1 ! heads ( ! bri/le are cut (f1 & ! ends s&pap]$4 ,! wax ?read or 8end10 z x is call$1 %\ld nev] be made long] ?an is necess>y to sew a %oe4 ,exp]i5ce %[s t if a portion ( an end left aft] sew+ "o %oe is us$ on ! second %oe1 x is nev] z /rong z a new end4 ,! ?read gr[s weak] & weak] z x is us$4 ,:5 ! ?read is well wax$1 x is cem5t$ to ! %oe4 ,aft] ! %oe is sew$1 ! %oemak] p>es (f inequalities & levels ! bottoms1 by fill+ up ! depress$ "p 9 ! c5t] ) pieces ( t>r$ felt4 ,! %oes are n[ ready = ! outsoles4 ,! fib]s ( ! lea!r to be us$ = ! soles are ?or\ghly cond5s$ by hamm]+ on ! lap/one4 ,!n !y are fa/5$ ?r\gh ! insole ) /eel tacks1 _! sides are p>$1 & a n>r[ *annel is cut r\nd _! edges4 ,?r\gh ?is *annel !y are /it*$ to ! welt1 ab\t twelve /it*es ( /rong1 wax$ ?read be+ made to ! in*4 ,! soles are next hamm]$ into %ape2 ! heel lifts are put on & atta*$ ) wood5 pegs4 ,!n !y are sew$ ?r\gh ! /it*es ( ! insoles2 & ! top pieces1 simil> to ! outsoles1 are put on & nail$ d[n to ! lifts4 ,! f9i%+ op]ations ( ! %oe include smoo?+ ! edges ( ! heel1 p>+1 rasp+1 scrap+1 smoo?+1 black+1 & burni%+ ! edges ( ! soles1 )draw+ ! la/s1 & clean+ out any pegs :i* may h pi]c$ ?r\gh ! inn] sole4 ,!re are num]\s m9or op]ations connect$ ) =w>d+ & f9i%+ 9 v>i\s mat]ials1 su* z pun*+ holes1 ins]t+ eyelets1 etc4 ,,h[ ,,%oes ,,are ,,repair$ ,be=e "o c und]/& h[ %oes are repair$1 x is necess>y to "k ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! inside & outside ( a %oe4 ,! la/ is divid$ into f\r p>ts1 viz4 toe1 ball1 %ank1 & heel4 ,diagram ,no4 #a %[s ^! p>ts & _! %apes4 ,diagram ,no4 #b %[s ! l5g? ( ! inside ( ! divisions z comp>$ ) ^? ( ! outside4 ,notice ! long %ank & %ort ball4 ,diagram ,no4 #c %[s ! outside ( ! divisions & ! effect !y h ^u ! %ape ( ! %oe4 ,see %ort %ank & long ball4 ,always rememb] t ! ball ( a %oe is long] on ! outside1 hav+ a %ort %ank4 ,! ball is %ort] on ! inside1 hav+ a long %ank4 ,comp>e outside & inside diagrams ,nos4 #b & #c4 ,illu/ration3 ,h[ a ,side ( ,lea!r is %ap$ & divid$ z to ,quality4 ,see page #e4 ,dia4 #a4 ,dia4 #b4 ,dia4 #c4 ,,%oe ,,repair+ ,! fir/ op]ation 9 half sol+ a %oe is to cut (f ! old portion f 8a0 to 8c0 z %[n on diagram ,no4 #a4 ,! %oe is plac$ 9 diff]5t positions & correct$ 9 e way be=e putt+ on ! new sole4 ,x is g5]ally bett] to wet ! %oe 9 ord] to put x 9 %ape4 ,! lea!r is skiv$ ?9 & accurate en\gh to make a neat1 com=table jo9t1 & yet ?ick en\gh = ! nails to hold4 ,!n ! fill+ is add$ be=e plac+ on ! sole4 ,! sole is trimm$ & a guide l9e drawn ar\nd ! edge1 s t ! nails may be prop]ly arrang$4 ,f9i%+ ! sole is an important "p4 ,if ev]y?+ else is prop]ly done1 ?is "p becomes comp>atively easy4 ,see t all nails are cl9*$4 ,) a level bottom1 smoo? jo9ts & edges1 ! %oe c be made to look l a new %oe & yet feel l an old "o4 ,on acc\nt ( ! heel be+ m directly "u ! body & ! fir/ "p to /rike ! gr\nd1 x g5]ally we>s out fir/4 ,= ?is reason 9 repair+ a heel great c>e mu/ be tak5 to see t good lea!r & solid "w are put into x4 ,pull (f ! worn top piece & see t :at is left is hamm]$ d[n solidly4 ,next split a piece ( solid1 easy-cutt+1 scrap sole lea!r1 s t two pieces c be made out ( "o4 ,put !m on ! %oe & fa/5 !m on well1 piece by piece1 ) tacks4 ,see t ! heel is level be=e putt+ on ! top piece4 7,if necess>y1 a small piece may be put "u ! top piece47 ,aft] x is level1 put on top piece1 trim 9 %ape1 !n draw guide l9e & nail d[n4 ,! nails are plac$ ?ick] on ! side t is worn d[n mo/1 to protect ! heel4 ,! heel is next rasp$1 & smoo!d ) a buff] & s&pap]4 ,:5 f9i%$1 x %\ld set level4 ,,mod]n ,,me?od ,,( ,,repair+ ,,%oes ,z ! %oemak+ indu/ry has become m & m p]fect1 !re has be5 an increas+ int]e/ tak5 9 %oe repair+4 ,a m$ium-pric$ %oe z x is made to-day may (t5 be 9 good en\gh condition to be heel$ & sol$ a c\ple ( times4 ,h5ce1 al?\gh 9 ! pa/ _m %oe /ores & dep>tm5ts h _h _! %oe repair+ done by outside %ops1 ! t5d5cy to-day is = e %oe /ore to h its own repair dep>tm5t4 ,?is me?od has result$ l>gely f ! developm5t ( ma*9]y = %oe repair+1 :i* is revolutioniz+ ! bus9ess to su* an ext5t t 9 a few ye>s repair+ by h& w be among ! lo/ arts4 ,) ! new inv5tions = re/or+ upp] lea!r1 & ! improvem5t ( ma*9]y = %oe repair+1 repair dep>tm5ts w v soon be b little %ort ( m9iature factories4 ,! ma*9]y ord9>ily us$ consi/s ( ! ,goodye> /it*]1 us$ = atta*+ soles to ,goodye> welts by ! lock-/it* me?od1 j z 9 %oe factories mak+ ,goodye> welt %oes4 ,!n !re is a heel trimm]1 a bottom f9i%]1 consi/+ ( a rapidly revolv+ roll cov]$ ) co>se & f9e s&pap]1 & an op]a heel build] = =m+ concave heels4 ,!re are two :eels us$ = tan & :ite heel "w1 "o heel be+ cov]$ ) a :ite clo?1 & ! o!r ) a co>se bru%4 ,adjo9+ ^! are usually ! %ank & heel f9i%]1--capable ( smoo?+ & highly poli%+ a %ank or heel 9 ab\t a doz5 seconds1--! bottom f9i%]1 t gr9ds & smoo?s d[n ! new sole1 & a ma*9e us$ = rubb+ (f dirt be=e ! %oe is f9i%$1 consi/+ ( a heavy horsehair bru%4 ,ano!r useful "p ( ! equipm5t is an edge sett]1 :i* is also id5tical ) ! "o us$ 9 factories4 ,! %oe /it*+ ma*9es & ! p>ts us$ 9 f9i%+ are all op]at$ on "o long %aft1 rapidly revolv$ by ! aid ( a motor4 ,x is a fact t a %oe may be actually sol$ & heel$ 9 less ?an six m9utes4 ,five or six m5 are usually employ$ 9 ! repair dep>tm5t ( a l>ge e/abli%m5t4 ,:5 ! cu/om]'s %oes are br\ght 91 "o ( ^! m5 cuts (f ! old sole & traces an outl9e ( ! new sole on a block ( ! v be/ oak lea!r4 ,aft] ^! are cut out by h& 9 r\gh =m1 !y are soak$ 9 wat] & *annel$2 t is to say1 a "p ( ! sole is turn$ up 9 :i* ! /it*es are to be run4 ,a second man1 by ! use ( ! ,goodye> /it*]1 jo9s ! sole & welt toge!r ) a v /rong & tightly drawn lock /it*4 ,?is is a l>ge ma*9e ) a curv$1 b>b$ ne$le & awl1 & a %uttle :i* sews ?r\gh an in* ( lea!r ) ! greate/ ease & spe$4 ,!re are f "o hundr$ & fifty to two hundr$ /it*es 9 ea* %oe2 moreov]1 e "o ( !m is lock$ ) heavy wax ?read1 s t !re is no *ance ( _! ev] giv+ away4 ,if "o /it* %\ld break1 ! o!r /it*es w\ld rema9 intact1 z !y are all indep5d5t ( ea* o!r4 ,bo? soles are /it*$ on 9 a little ov] half a m9ute )\t break+ a ?read or /opp+ ! ma*9e4 ,a coat+ ( rubb] cem5t is n[ plac$ 9 ! edges ( ! outsole1 & ! lip ( ! *annel is smoo!d d[n s t ! /it*es are entirely hidd5 :5 look+ at ! bottom ( ! %oe4 ,! edge trimm+ is done next ) ! aid ( a rapidly revolv+ :eel1 :i* trims ! edges squ>e & true 9 ab\t =ty seconds4 ,aft] ?is1 ! %ank is f9i%$ on a rapidly revolv+ :eel cov]$ ) em]y clo?4 ,bottom f9i%+ is ! next /ep4 ,?is is done on a ma*9e hav+ two long cyl9d]s1 "o cov]$ ) f9e & ! o!r ) co>se s&pap]4 ,^! cyl9d]s revolve rapidly1 & ! op]ator uses ! co>se s&pap] = sc\r+ ! dirt & old f9i% (f ! lea!r1 & ! f9e s&pap] = f9i%+ ! sole z smoo? z t ( any new %oe4 ,! bru%+ 9 or smoo?+ is next done by ! horsehair bru% we h m5tion$ be=e4 ,a prep>ation call$ ,lewis's rival bottom poli%--a sort ( :ite wax--is plac$ on ! bru% ma*9e4 ,! bru% n[ smoo?s ! surface ( ! sole1 fill+ 9 all small holes ) wax & leav+ ! sole absolutely p]fect4 ,f9ally1 ! %oe is plac$ aga9/ a rapidly revolv+ bru% :i* f9i%es ! upp]s ) a lu/] t w\ld make any ord9>y boot-black gre5 ) envy4 ,ano!r op]ation t fully completes ! process is ! h>d5+ ( ! edges ) hot /eel1 :i* ends 9 produc+ an edge t is z h>d z iron4 ,:5 x is poli%$ ) a black dye1 x looks exactly l a new sole4 ,a few words are necess>y ) reg>d to ! heel4 ,! old heel hav+ be5 remov$1 sev]al lifts ( new lea!r 9 r\gh =m are tack$ on4 ,! %oe is !n tak5 to ! heel trimm] & is =m$ correctly & !n smoo!d d[n to a brilliant surface on ! f9ely cov]$ revolv+ :eel4 ,9 a few seconds x is /a9$1 smoo!d1 & poli%$4 ,9 less ?an six m9utes ! %oe is ready = ! cu/om]4 ,,*apt] ,,n9e ,,lea!r ,,& ,,%oemak+ ,,t]ms ,,assembl+4 ,includes ! foll[+ op]ations3 tack+ ! insole to ! la/1 putt+ 9 ! box & c\nt] ( ! %oe1 & putt+ ! upp] ( ! %oe on ! la/4 ,,back/ay4 ,a t]m us$ to d5ote a /rip ( lea!r cov]+ & /r5g!n+ ! back seam ( a %oe4 ,engli% back/ay means ! /rip ( lea!r t meets ! qu>t]s on ea* side & is sew$ to !m1 =m+ ! l[] "p ( ! %oe4 ,cali=nia back/ay is a t]m appli$ to pip+ caught 9 ! back seam4 ,,back ,,/rap4 ,! /rap by :i* ! %oe is pull$ on ! foot4 ,,bal4 ,an abbreviation ( ! ^w 8,balmoral0 & means ei!r m5's1 wom5's1 or *ildr5's front lace %oe ( m$ium height1 z di/+ui%$ f "o t is adju/$ to ! ankle by buttons1 buckles1 rubb] gor+1 etc4 ,,ball4 ,ref]s to ! ball ( ! foot--! fle%y "p ( ! bottom ( ! foot1 back ( ! toes4 ,,bead+4 ,means fold+ 9 ! edges ( ! upp] lea!r in/ead ( leav+ !m raw1 or :eel+ any impression ar\nd ! sole to ! heel4 ,x is call$ seat :eel+ 9 _m %oe factory rooms4 ,,beat+ ,,out4 ,! same z level+4 ,x is ! t]m us$ 9 turn-%oe "w4 ,,bell[s ,,tongue4 ,a broad tongue sew$ to ! sides ( ! top1 se5 9 wat]pro( & "s work+ %oes4 ,,belt+4 ,! t]m appli$ to ! usual back tann$ c[hide1 us$ 9 v>i\s ?icknesses = ma*9]y belts4 ,,betwe5 ,,sub/ance4 ,t "p ( ! sole t holds ! /it*4 ,,blackball4 ,a mass ( grease & lampblack1 =m]ly us$ by %oemak]s on edges ( heels & soles2 sometimes call$ 8cobbl]'s bot*40 ,,black+ ,,! ,,edge4 ,black+ or dye+ edge ( sole1 welt1 or t "p ( ! edge :i* _c be black$ s well 9 ! mak+ room4 ,,block+4 ,! cutt+ or *opp+ ( a sole 9 su* a =m or %ape t x c be r\nd$4 ,,bloom4 ,a t]m (t5 appli$ to ! grayi% :ite deposit t ga!rs on %oes 9 /ock4 ,x c be wip$ (f readily4 ,,blu*]4 ,! "n ( a %oe or half boot1 orig9at$ by ,field ,m>%al ,bl*] ( ! ,prussian ,army1 9 ! "t ( ,napoleon ,i4 ,x became v popul> & has s9ce receiv$ occasional favor1 be+ us$ ) high tops z a sport+ or hunt+ boot4 ,its di/+ui%+ feature is ! ext5sion =w>d ( ! qu>t]s to lace across ! tongue1 :i* may be an ext5sion upw>d ( ! vamp4 ,,boot4 ,a t]m us$ 7especially abroad7 to designate wom5's high-cut %oes4 ,9 ?is c\ntry x applies only to high or topp$ footwe>1 usually made ) ! tops /iff & solid4 ,x is sometimes lac$1 z 9 hunt+ boots4 ,,bootee4 ,lea!r legg+ ext5d+ betwe5 knee & ankle1 usually ( ,russian calf1--a rid+ boot orig9at+ ) ! ,engli%4 ,,bottom ,,fill+4 ,! fill+ t goes 9 ! l[ space on ! bottom 9 ! =ep>t ( ! %oe4 ,x is ei!r gr\nd cork1 t>r$ felt1 or o!r fill]4 ,,bottom ,,sc\r+4 ,s&pap]+ ! p>ts ( ! sole1 except ! heel4 ,,box+4 ,a t]m us$ to designate ! /iff5+ mat]ial plac$ 9 ! toe ( a %oe to support x & reta9 ! %ape2 su* z lea!r1 composition ( lea!r & pap]1 wire net1 drill+ 7a cotton fabric7 /iff5$ ) %ellac1 etc4 ,,box ,,calf4 ,a well-kn[n propriet>y lea!r hav+ a gra9 ( rectangul>ly cross$ l9es4 ,,box ,,toe4 ,us$ to hold up ! toe ( ! %oe s z to reta9 ! %ape4 ,x is g5]ally ( sole lea!r1 b (t5 made ( canvas or o!r mat]ial & /iff5$ ) %ellac or gum4 ,,break+ ,,! ,,sole4 ,mold+ ! sole s z to fit ! spr+ bett]4 ,,brogan4 ,a heavy pegg$ or nail$ "w %oe1 m$ium cut 9 height4 ,,bru%+4 ,! f9al f9i% ( ! top edge1 heel1 & bottom1 by means ( a bru%4 ,,bucksk94 ,a s(t lea!r1 g5]ally yell[ or grayi% 9 color4 ,"o way ( prep>+ x is by treat+ de]sk9s 9 oil4 ,,buff4 ,a split side lea!r1 co>s] ?an glove gra91 b o!rwise simil>4 ,x is us$ = *eap] grades ( %oes1 pr9cipally = m54 ,,buff+4 ,! same z bottom sc\r+4 ,,cab>etta4 ,a tann$ %eepsk9 ( sup]ior f9i% us$ = %oe /ock4 ,!re are %eep ) wool n f> remov$ f hair 9 texture1 :i* produce a sk9 ( great] t5acity & f9i% ?an ! ord9>y %eep4 ,,cack4 ,a sole lea!r bottom )\t a heel4 ,an infant's %oe is call$ a cack4 ,,calfsk9s4 ,sk9s ( meat cattle ( all k9ds1 weigh+ up to fifte5 p\nds1 are usually includ$ 9 ?is t]m4 ,!y make a /rong & pliable lea!r4 ,calfsk9s 7 =m]ly f9i%$ ) wax & oil on ! fle% side1 b c n[ be made s z to be f9i%$ on ! 8gra910 :i* is ! hair side ( ! sk94 ,,cap4 ,a t]m mean+ ! same z tip4 ,,c>ton4 ,a c>dbo>d box int5d$ = "o pair ( %oes4 ,,cem5t+4 ,?is is ! op]ation ( plac+ cem5t on ! outsole & ! bottom ( ! welt %oe s t ! outsole is held to ! %oe by ! cem5t4 ,,*amois4 ,a lea!r made f ! sk9s ( *amois1 calves1 de]1 goats1 %eep1 & split hides ( o!r animals4 ,,*annel+4 ,cutt+ into ! sole 9 su* a way t ! ?read or /it*+ is away f ! surface4 ,9 ! outsole dep>tm5t x means prep>+ a place = ! /it*4 ,9 insoles & turn soles1 *annel+ is done s t soles are prep>$ to hold ! /it*+4 ,,*annel ,,screw$4 ,a process by :i* ! sole is fa/5$ to ! upp]s4 ,aft] a *annel is cut & laid ov] on ! outside ( ! outsole1 ! outsole & insole are fa/5$ toge!r1 hold+ ! upp] & l9+ betwe5 !m by means ( wire screws1 :i* are fa/5$ 9 ?is *annel4 ,! skiv$ "p is !n smoo!d d[n ov] ! heads ( ! screws1 entirely cov]+ !m f sight1 & prev5t+ ! screws f easily work+ up into ! foot4 ,,*annel ,,/it*$4 ,a me?od ( fa/5+ soles to ! upp]s1 ei!r by ,mc,kay or welt process1 9 :i* a portion ( ! sole's out] side is *annel$ into1 & ! /it*es aft]w>ds cov]$ on ! l[] side by ! lip ( ?is *annel4 ,,*annel ,,turn+4 ,turn+ a lip or flap ( sole lea!r 7call$ *annel71 s t ! /it*+ c be done 9 ! prop] place2 or x may mean turn+ up ! flap or lip ( ! *annel1 t is1 ! "p t is to cov] ! /it*4 ,,*eck+4 ,a t]m appli$ to ! edges ( heels or soles t h crack$1 or h be5 injur$ 9 process ( con/ruction4 ,,clean+ ,,inside4 ,clean+ ! l9+4 ,,clean+ ,,nails4 ,scrap+ ! black+ (f ! tops ( ! heel slugs4 ,,clean+ ,,%oes4 ,remov+ dirt1 wax1 cem5t1 etc41 f !m4 ,,click+4 ,cutt+ ! upp]s ( %oes4 ,,clos+4 ,putt+ two or m pieces toge!r4 ,,clos+ ,,on4 ,/it*+ ! l9+ & outside toge!r4 ,,colonial4 ,a "n giv5 to a woman's l[ %oe1 ) vamp ext5d$ into a fl>+ tongue1 ) a l>ge1 ornam5tal buckle across ! in/ep4 ,! buckle & tongue are ! di/9ctive features ( ! %oe1 :e!r ! %oe fa/5s ) a lace or /rap4 ,,coltsk94 ,coltsk9 has be5 br\ght into g5]al use 9 %oemak+ )9 ! pa/ few ye>s4 ,! sk9 ( a colt is ?9 en\gh to use l calfsk9 9 its entirety1 ) su* %av+ z is giv5 all hides 9 tann+4 ,coltsk9 makes a firm basis ne$$ = pat5t lea!r1 & has be5 mu* us$ 9 rec5t ye>s = ?is purpose4 ,russia is ! *ief s\rce ( supply4 ,,comb9ation ,,la/4 ,"o ) a diff]5t wid? in/ep f ! ball4 ,x may be "o or two wid?s' diff]5ce1 su* z ! ,d ball ) a ,b in/ep4 ,comb9ation la/s are g5]ally us$ 9 fitt+ l[ in/eps4 ,,composition4 ,a t]m us$ to d5ote ! small scraps t accumulate ab\t tann]ies & factories1 :i* are gr\nd up & mix$ ) a pa/e or a k9d ( cem5t1 & flatt5$ into %eets :i* are us$ z insoles1 & 9 o!r p>ts1 9 v>i\s grades ( %oes1 :]e we> is n excessive4 ,,congress ,,gait]4 ,a %oe design$ especially = com=t1 ) rubb] gor+ 9 ! sides :i* adju/s x to ! ankle1 in/ead ( laces1 & sometimes made ) lace front to imitate a regul> %oe4 ,,cordovan4 ,orig9ally a ,spani% lea!r made f horsehide4 ,! ,spani>ds 71 = a great _m c5turies1 ! be/ lea!r mak]s4 ,! t]m is appli$ to a gra9 lea!r f ! be/ & /ronge/ "p ( a horsehide4 ,,c\nt]4 ,! /iff5+ 9 ! back "p ( a %oe1 (t5 call$ /iff5+1 to support ! out] lea!r & prev5t ! %oe f 8runn+ ov]0 at ! heel4 ,x is made ei!r ( sole lea!r1 %av$ ?9 on ! edge & %ap$ by ma*9]y1 z 9 ! be/ %oes1 or composition or pap]1 9 *eap %oes4 ,metal is occasionally us$ on ! outside ( ! %oes 9 heavy goods = m9]s & furnacem54 ,,c\pon ,,tag4 ,a tag f :i* a c\pon is cut = e op]ation4 ,op]atives hold "p ( ! c\pon & ! hold]s ( ! c\pons are paid = ! "p nam$4 ,,c[hide4 ,ref]s to hides ( cattle1 heavi] ?an kips1 :i* run up to tw5ty-five p\nds ea*4 ,,creas+ ,,vamp4 ,mak+ holl[ grooves across ! front ( ! vamp to add to its looks4 ,,cre$more4 ,a man's heavy lace %oe1 ) gusset1 blu*] cut4 ,,creole4 ,a heavy congress "w %oe4 ,?is %oe1 ! cre$more1 & brogans are usually made ( oil gra9s1 kip1 or split lea!r1 sometimes pegg$1 sometimes 8/it*$ d[n40 ,,crimp+4 ,%ap+ any "p ( ! upp] s t x w con=m to ! la/ bett]4 ,,cu%ion ,,sole4 ,an ela/ic inn] sole4 ,,cut-,,(f ,,vamp4 ,"o cut (f at tip = economy :5 tip is to be cov]$ by a cap4 ,,die+4 ,cutt+ soles to fit ! la/1 outsoles1 insoles1 heel lifts1 c\nt]s1 or half soles1 ) a ma*9e & a die4 ,,dom ,,p$ro4 ,a heavy1 "o-buckle %oe1 ) gusset or bell[s tongue4 ,orig9ally x 0 a pat5t "n = c]ta9 %oes made ( f9e mat]ial1 b is n[ appli$ to *eap grades4 ,,dongola4 ,a heavy1 plump goatsk91 tann$ ) a semibright f9i%4 ,,dress+4 ,a process = giv+ ! upp] its orig9al f9i% by means ( liquid put on ) sponge4 ,,edge ,,sett+4 ,! f9i%+ edge ( ! sole1--poli%+ x4 ,,edge ,,trimm+4 ,trimm+ ! edge ( a sole smoo?ly to con=m to la/4 ,,enamel4 ,lea!r t is giv5 a %9y f9i% on ! gra9 side4 ,! process is simil> to t ( pat5t lea!r1 only t pat5t lea!r is f9i%$ on ! fle% side1 or ! surface ( ! split4 ,,eyelet4 ,a small r+ ( metal1 etc41 plac$ 9 ! holes = lac+2 ! eyelet holes are sometimes work$ ) ?read l a buttonhole4 ,,eyelett+4 ,putt+ on eyelets4 ,,fac+4 ,! blea*$ calf or %eepsk9 us$ ar\nd ! top ( ! %oe1 & d[n ! eyelet r[ & inside ( ! upp]4 ,,fair ,,/it*4 ,t]m appli$ to ! /it*+ t %[s ar\nd ! out] edge ( ! sole1 to give ! ,mc,kay %oe ! appe>ance ( a welt %oe4 ,,fak+4 ,putt+ a gloss on any "p ( ! bottom ( ! %oe4 ,,f9d+s4 ,! small p>ts ( a %oe1 su* z black+1 cem5t1 nails1 wax1 tacks1 ?read1 etc4 ,,flap1 ,,lip1 ,,& ,,%\ld]4 ,t]ms us$ 9 connection ) ! *annel or ) ! op]ation ( sew+4 ,,foll[]4 ,any la/ or =m put 9 a %oe f :i* ! orig9al la/ has be5 pull$4 ,,=ep>t ,,f9i%+4 ,! /a9+ & poli%+ ( ! =ep>t ( ! %oe4 ,,=m4 ,a t]m appli$ to a fill] la/4 ,x may be ( wood1 papi]-m*1 lea!r bo>d1 or any simil> mat]ial1 & is us$ to enhance ! appe>ance ( sample %oes1 9 salesm5's l9es or 9 w9d[ displays4 ,,fox$4 ,hav+ ! l[] "p ( ! qu>t] a sep>ate piece ( lea!r or cov]$ by an extra piece2 8slipp] fox$0 is a t]m sometimes appli$ to wom5's full vamp %oes4 ,,fox+4 ,! "n appli$ to t "p ( ! upp] t ext5ds f ! sole to ! laces 9 front1 & to ab\t ! height ( ! c\nt] 9 ! back2 be+ ! l5g? ( ! upp]4 ,x may be 9 "o or m pieces & is (t5 cut d[n to ! %ank 9 circul> =m4 ,,frizz+4 ,a process to :i* *amois & wa% lea!r are subject$1 aft] ! sk9s are unhair$1 scrap$1 8fle%$10 & rais$4 ,x consi/s 9 rubb+ ! sk9s ) pumice /one or a blunt knife till ! appe>ance ( ! gra9 is entirely remov$4 ,,front4 ,a t]m us$ = "p ( a congress toe4 ,,gait]4 ,a t]m usually appli$ to a sep>ate ankle cov]+ or to a congress %oe4 ,,gemm+4 ,! op]ation ( mak+ gem insoles4 ,,gem ,,insoles4 ,an insole = welt %oes ( lea!r4 ,,glaz$ ,,kid4 ,see ,kid4 ,,glove ,,gra94 ,a light1 s(t-f9i%$1 split lea!r1 = wom5's or *ildr5's %oes or topp+4 ,,goatsk94 ,see ,kid4 ,,goodye> ,,welt4 ,a t]m us$ to d5ote ! process ( atta*+ ! sole to ! upp] ( a %oe by means ( a n>r[ /rip ( lea!r call$ a welt4 ,,gore4 ,a rubb] ela/ic us$ 9 a congress %oe4 ,x is also appli$ to ! long1 w$ge-%ap$ piece ( lea!r set 9 an upp] to wid5 x4 ,,grad+4 ,! sort+ ( outsoles & half soles to get uni=m weight 9 edges ( f9i%$ %oes4 ,,half ,,sole4 ,half ( a complete sole us$ 9 =ep>t ( bottom "u outsole4 ,,h>ness ,,lea!r4 ,simil> to belt+1 & is made f hides heavi] ?an kips4 ,,heel4 ,made ( lay]s ( lea!r or wood call$ lift+s1 & atta*$ to re> "p ( %oe 7heel seat74 ,!re are diff]5t v>ieties ( heels4 ,! ,fr5* heel is an extremely high heel ) a curv$ outl9e 9 back & front 7brea/74 ,x is sometimes made ( wood cov]$ ) lea!r1 ) ?icknesses ( sole lea!r1 or all sole lea!r4 ,! ,cuban heel is a high1 /raight heel1 )\t ! curve ( ! ,fr5* or 8,l\is ,,xv0 heel4 ,milit>y heel is a /raight heel n z high z ! ,cuban4 ,a spr+ heel is a l[ heel =m$ by ext5d+ back ! outside ( ! %oe to ! heel1 ) a slip ins]t$ betwe5 ! outsole & heel slat4 ,w$ge heel is some:at simil> to a spr+ heel1 except t a w$ge-%ap$ lift is tack$ on ! outside in/ead ( a slit4 ,slugg+ heels is ! process ( affix+ ! made-up heel by "o op]ation ( ! ma*9e4 ,,heel ,,f9i%+4 ,black+ & poli%+ ! heel edge4 ,,heel ,,l9+4 ,! l9+ to cov] heel nails inside ! %oe2 x is (t5 kn[n by o!r names4 ,,heel ,,pad4 ,9 ! manufacture ( %oes1 is a small piece ( felt1 lea!r1 or o!r sub/ance fa/5$ to & cov]+ ! full wid? ( ! insole at ! po9t ^u :i* ! heel re/s4 ,a heel cu%ion is sometimes call$ a heel pad4 ,,heel ,,sc\r+4 ,s&pap]+ ! edge ( ! heel1 except ! front or brea/ portion4 ,,heel ,,seat4 ,t "p ( sole on :i* heel is fa/5$4 ,,heel ,,seat ,,nail+4 ,nail+ ! heel "p ( sole4 ,,heel ,,seat ,,trimm+4 ,trimm+ ! re> or heel "p ( sole4 ,,heel ,,%av+4 ,%av+ ! heel1 %ap+ x4 ,,hemlock ,,tann$4 ,a process ( tann+ lea!r by hemlock b>k4 ,,hides4 ,di/+ui%$ f sk9s1 9 ! trade4 ,hides ref] to sk9s ( animals :i* are ov] tw5ty-five p\nds 9 weight4 ,sk9s ref] to small] animals2 z sk9s ( goats1 calves1 %eep4 ,,inlay4 ,a trimm+ ( ! upp] by an ins]tion ( ! same or diff]5t k9d ( mat]ial ?an t ( ! body 9 :i* x is inlaid4 ,x is us$ = decorative purpose on a %oe4 ,,inseam+4 ,sew+ sole on turn %oe4 ,welt+ & inseam+ are practically ! same op]ation4 ,,inseam ,,trimm+4 ,cutt+ (f ! surplus lea!r2 t]m is also appli$ to pull+ sole tacks4 ,,insole4 ,! fir/ sole laid on ! la/1 & is ! f\ndation ( all %oes ) insoles4 ,x is an important ?\gh invisible portion ( a %oe4 ,?is inn] sole is ! "p to :i* ! upp] & outsole are sew$ or nail$ 9 ! ,mc,kay & welt %oes4 ,,inspect+4 ,! exam9ation ( %oes to see t ! "w is p]fect2 x is sometimes call$ cr[n+4 ,,inspect+ ,,insole4 ,! op]ation ( look+ inside ( ! %oe = tacks4 ,,in/ep4 ,! top ( ! ar* ( ! foot4 ,,iron4 ,a t]m indicat+ ! ?ickness ( sole lea!r2 ea* unit is approximately "o ?irty-second ( an in* 9 ?ickness4 ,,iron+ ,,upp]s4 ,tak+ wr9kles out ( ! upp]s & smoo?+ ! same ) a hot iron4 ,,juliette4 ,a woman's h\se slipp] :i* is cut a little above ! ankle 9 front & back1 & cut d[n on ! sides is call$ a ,juliette4 ,,kang>oo4 ,! sk9 ( ! animal ( t "n1 :i* makes a spl5did lea!r1 ( firm texture4 ,x is q exp5sive1 h5ce sub/itutes are on ! m>ket "u ! same "n4 ,,kid4 ,a t]m appli$ to ! %oe lea!r made f ! sk9s ( mature goats4 ,,kip4 ,a t]m appli$ to lea!r made f hides weigh+ betwe5 fifte5 & tw5ty-five p\nds4 ,,lace ,,/ay4 ,a /rip ( lea!r ren=c+ ! eyelet holes4 ,,lace ,,hook4 ,an eyelet ext5d$ into a recurv$ hook1 ar\nd :i* ! lace is loop$4 ,x is mo/ commonly us$ 9 m5's & boys' %oes1 al?\gh rec5tly "s h be5 inv5t$ = use 9 wom5's %oes ) curv$ ends1 to avoid cat*+ ! dress4 ,,lac+4 ,! op]ation ( putt+ laces 9 %oes4 ,,la/4 ,a wood5 =m ov] :i* ! %oe is con/ruct$1 giv+ ! %oe its di/9ctive %ape4 ,,la/+4 ,! process ( mak+ ! upp]s con=m to ! la/ 9 all respects4 ,! op]ations ( assembl+ & pull+ ov] are p>ts ( la/+4 ,,lay+ ,,*annel4 ,turn+ d[n ! lip or flap to cov] ! /it*+4 ,,level+4 ,%ap+ ! sole to ! bottom ( ! la/4 ,,lift4 ,! "n giv5 to "o ?ickness ( sole lea!r us$ 9 ! heel4 ,top lift is ! bottom lift1 :5 ! %oe is "r side up1 & is ! la/ piece put on 9 manufacture4 ,,l9+4 ,! inside "p ( %oe1 g5]ally ( clo? 7dull7 or %eepsk94 ,,l9+ ,,cutt+4 ,! op]ation ( cutt+ ! clo? l9+s4 ,,l9+-,,94 ,! op]ation ( putt+ l9+ inside ( ! %oe to cov] insole or "p ( insole4 ,,load+ ,,lea!r4 ,fill+ ! pores ( ! lea!r ) glucose to increase its weight4 ,,mak+ ,,l9+s4 ,consi/s ( clos+ up heel ( l9+2 putt+ on top & side or eyelet /ay4 ,,mat* ,,m>k+4 ,an op]ation p]=m$ on color$ upp]s1 except black1 to get diff]5t p>ts ( ! upp] ! same %ade & color1 & bo? %oes 9 ! pair alike4 ,,mat4 ,a t]m appli$ to a dull f9i% kid z di/+ui%$ f glaz$4 ,,mckay ,,sew$ ,,or ,,mckay4 ,a %oe 9 :i* ! outsole is atta*$ to ! insole & upp] by a me?od nam$ = ! inv5tor4 ,,mckay ,,sew+4 ,sew+ ?r\gh & ?r\gh s t ?read is se5 inside ( %oe4 ,,middle ,,sole4 ,any sole betwe5 outsole & insole4 ,,mock ,,welt4 ,mc,kay-sew$ %oe ) a d\ble sole & hav+ a lea!r sock l9+4 ,x is fair /it*$ to imitate a welt4 ,,monkey ,,sk94 ,a peculi> gra9$ sk91 & is consid]$ 9 ! trade z a fancy lea!r4 ,x is (t5 imitat$4 ,,morocco4 ,a "n appli$ to lea!r orig9ally made 9 ,morocco4 ,x is a sumac-tann$ goatsk91 r$ 9 color1 & is us$ 9 book b9d+4 ,! "n is also appli$ to a lea!r made 9 imitation ( ?is1 & to heavy1 plump goatsk9s us$ = %oes4 ,,mold+4 ,%ap+ ! sole to fit ! bottom ( la/4 ,,mules4 ,! "n appli$ to slipp]s ) no c\nt]s or qu>t]s4 ,,nap4 ,! woolly side ( hide1 clo?1 or felt4 ,,naumkeag+4 ,smoo?+ up ! bottom ) f9e s&pap]4 ,sometimes ! buff+ gra94 ,,nullifi]4 ,a %oe ) high vamp & qu>t]1 dropp+ l[ at ! sides1 made ) a %ort rubb] gor+ = summ] or h\se we>4 ,,oak ,,tann$4 ,a process ( tann+ by means ( a sub/ance obta9$ f oak b>k4 ,,oil ,,lea!r4 ,lea!r prep>$ by curry+ hides 9 oil4 ,! hides are moi/1 t ! oily matt] may be gradually & ?or\ghly absorb$4 ,,ooze4 ,a *rome tan calfsk9 treat$ on ! fle% side 9 su* a mann] t ! long fib]s are loos5$ & =m a nap surface2 made 9 _m colors4 ,,outside ,,cutt+4 ,cutt+ ! lea!r p>ts ( ! %oe1 z vamp1 tip1 top1 etc4 ,,outside ,,tap4 ,! tap us$ outside ( m5's or boys' heavy %oes4 ,,outsole4 ,! sole next ! gr\nd1 on :i* all we> comes4 ,illu/ration3 ,cross ,section ( ,mc,kay ,sew$ ,%oe4 ,illu/ration3 ,cross ,section ( ,goodye> ,welt ,%oe4 ,,ox=d4 ,a l[-cut %oe no high] ?an ! in/ep lace1 button1 or gor+1 made 9 m5's1 wom5's1 & *ildr5's sizes4 ,,pack] ,,hides4 ,hides tak5 (f 9 ! l>ge slaught]h\ses4 ,!y are rat$ slightly high] 9 price1 because great c>e & skill are us$ 9 tak+ !m (f4 ,,pack+4 ,plac+ a pair ( %oes 9 a c>ton4 ,,pacs4 ,cov]+s = ! feet made ( good quality calfsk91 simil> 9 =m & appe>ance to ! ,indian moccas94 ,!y d n h sole lea!r bottoms4 ,if prop]ly made1 !y are wat]pro(4 ,,pancake4 ,a t]m appli$ to "o ( ! _m artificial lea!rs =m$ f lea!r scraps1 %av$ ?91 & cem5t$ toge!r "u heavy pressure4 ,,pa/$ ,,c\nt]4 ,"o t is cut f two pieces ( sole lea!r pa/$ toge!r4 ,x is sometimes call$ a two-piece c\nt]4 ,,pat5t ,,lea!r4 ,v>ni%$ lea!r4 ,,patt]n4 ,! model by :i* ! pieces compris+ ! upp] ( a %oe are cut1 appli$ collectively to upp] z modifi$ by ! diff]+ %ape ( ^! pieces4 ,,pebble4 ,a t]m us$ 9 ! process to br+ out ! gra9 ( lea!r & give x a r\gh5$ or rubb$ appe>ance4 ,,pegg+4 ,la/+ out soles ) pegs4 ,,p]=at+4 ,mak+ v small holes ar\nd p>ts ( upp]4 ,x is p]=m$ mo/ly = decoration4 ,,poli%4 ,! "n ( ladies' or misses' front-lace %oe ( high] cut ?an 8bal10 & nam$ f ,pol&1 :]e x orig9at$4 ,,press+4 ,consi/s ( a flat-press pressure = heels & soles1 to prev5t crack+ ( edges & to make p>ts adh]e4 ,,porpoise4 ,?is sk9 is sometimes us$ = lea!r & boot laces1 b porpoise hides are ord9>ily obta9$ f ! :ite :ale4 ,,pull+ ,,la/s4 ,remov+ ! la/s f %oes4 ,,pull+ ,,ov]4 ,pull+ upp] on ! la/ & tack+ x 9 position4 ,,pump4 ,a l[-cut %oe orig9ally hav+ no fa/5+s1 su* z laces or buttons4 ,a pump is cut l[] ?an ! in/ep4 ,,pump ,,sole4 ,an extra-light s+le sole1 runn+ cle> ?r\gh to ! back ( ! heel4 ,a pump sole 9 =m] ye>s 0 di/+ui%$ by its flexibility & 0 h& turn$4 ,,putt+ ,,on ,,tap4 ,/ick+ half sole to ! outsole4 ,,qu>t]4 ,! re> "p ( upp] :5 a full vamp is n us$4 ,t]m is us$ mo/ly 9 wom5's1 & ,ox=ds or l[ %oes4 ,,r&4 ,made ( sole lea!r ab\t z wide z a welt1 b ?9 at "o edge4 ,x is tack$ to ! heel s z to balance ! heel ev5ly on ! sole & fill any op5 space ar\nd ! edge betwe5 sole & heel4 ,,rapid ,,/it*+4 ,sew+ ! sole to welt4 ,,rela/+4 ,consi/s 9 putt+ la/s 9 %oes f :i* ! orig9al la/s h be5 remov$4 ,,repair+4 ,a t]m appli$ to fill+ slight cracks 9 pat5t tips or pat5t lea!r4 ,,roan4 ,%eepsk9 tann$ ) sumac4 ,! process is simil> 9 its details to t employ$ = morocco lea!r1 b lacks ! gra9+ giv5 to ! morocco by ! groov$ roll]s 9 ! f9i%+4 ,x imitates ungra9$ morocco4 ,,roll+4 ,! process ( pass+ lea!r betwe5 rolls to make x firm & h>d4 ,roll+ consi/s 9 poli%+ ! bottom on roll & bru%4 ,,r\gh ,,r\nd+4 ,r\nd+ outsole to ! %ape ( la/1 & cutt+ *annel 9 ! welt-*annel$ %oes4 ,,royalties4 ,sums paid = ! use ( ma*9es to ma*9e companies4 ,,russet ,,calf4 ,russet-color$ calf is made f calfsk9s4 ,,russet ,,gra94 ,russet-color$ gra9 is made f a split c[hide4 ,,sabot4 ,! "n ( a "o-piece wood5 %oe1 c>v$ f a block ( basswood4 ,a novelty to ,am]icans1 b worn by p 9 ! rural & manufactur+ sections ( ,holl&1 ,g]many1 & ,france4 ,,sack ,,l9+4 ,! l9+ inside ! %oe & insole4 ,,s&al4 ,! "n ( a woman's /rap slipp]1 or a sole worn by *ildr54 ,orig9ally fa/5$ on ! foot by /raps4 ,,sat9 ,,calf4 ,a gra9 split1 /uff$ ) oil1 & smoo? f9i%$4 ,,sc\r+ ,,brea/4 ,s&pap]+ ! front "p ( ! heel4 ,,screw-,,fa/5$4 ,a %oe hav+ ! sole atta*$ ) screws1 z 9 *eap or work+ %oes4 ,,seal ,,gra94 ,usually a fle% split1 ) an artificial gra9 :i* is /amp$ or pr9t$ on ! f9i%$ lea!r4 ,,second ,,la/+4 ,! same z rela/+4 ,t]m us$ mo/ 9 turn "w4 ,,%ank4 ,! middle position ( ! bottom ( ! foot4 ,%ank supports are plac$ 9 %oes to /iff5 t "p ( ! bottom4 ,!y are ( /eel1 ( wood1 or ( a comb9ation ( lea!r bo>d & /eel1 & c be plac$ 9 ! %oe any "t be=e ! outsole is laid4 ,,%ank ,,burni%+4 ,poli%+ a black %ank ) hot iron4 ,,%ank ,,f9i%+4 ,f9i%+ ! %ank ) black+ or 9 colors4 ,! top lift is g5]ally f9i%$ at ! same "t4 ,,%ank+ ,,out4 ,means mak+ ! edge ( ! %ank ?9n] ?an ! o!r "p ( ! sole1 & mak+ x smoo?4 ,,%eepsk9s4 ,us$ l>gely = l9+s & = *eap %oes = wom5 & *ildr54 ,x is too s(t & weak 9 texture = heavy we>1 & liable to split & te>4 ,,%ort ,,vamp4 ,a =e%ort5$ vamp4 ,! di/ance betwe5 ! extreme tip & ! ?roat ( ! vamp %ort5$ = appe>ances4 ,,sides4 ,lea!r made f hides :i* are split into two sides d[n ! back4 ,,side ,,la/+4 ,la/+ ! side ( ! %oe only4 ,,size4 ,%oes are measur$ by ! l5g? & wid?4 ,! l5g? is express$ by numb]s & ! wid?s by lett]s4 ,,sk9s4 ,a t]m us$ to repres5t ! sk9 cov]+ ( small animals1 su* z goats4 ,,skirt+4 ,! out] p>ts ( lea!r 7hide71 su* z %anks1 bellies1 necks1 etc4 ,,skiv+4 ,mak+ ! sole ! same ?ickness 9 all p>ts4 ,skiv+ means cutt+ or %av+ d[n to a ?9 edge4 ,?is op]ation may be done 9 ! cutt+ dep>tm5t or /it*+ dep>tm5t4 ,,slip4 ,! "n appli$ to spr+ heels or to soles4 ,slip is a ?9 piece ( sole lea!r ins]t$ above ! out] sole4 ,,slugg+4 ,driv+ slugs 9 heels1 on "p or all ( ! heel4 ,,sock ,,l9+4 ,! l9+ = insole1 inside ( %oe4 ,,s(t ,,tip4 ,a t]m appli$ to a %oe on :i* no box+ is us$ "u ! tip4 ,,soles ,,& ,,sole ,,lea!r4 ,"n appli$ to pieces ( lea!r ( v>i\s ?ickness on ! bottom ( a %oe1 usually made f heavy hides ( lea!r4 ,!re are _m v>ieties ( soles3 a 8full-d\ble0 sole has two ?icknesses ( lea!r ext5d+ cle> back to ! heel2 8half-d\ble0 sole is a full out] sole1 ) slip ext5d+ back to %ank2 s+le sole is self-def9+2 8tap0 is a half sole4 ,,sole ,,lay+4 ,sole lay+ is ! op]ation ( lay+ ! outsole4 ,,sort+4 ,! process ( select+ & sort+ soles1 s t !y may be put up 9 diff]5t qualities4 ,,spew+4 ,%oes 9 /ock sometimes become coat$ ) a grayi% :ite1 p[d]y sub/ance1 t looks l mildew4 ,?is =mation on lea!r t is n fully season$ is call$ spew+1 & ! deposit is call$ bloom4 ,x c readily be wip$ (f1 & does n indicate any s]i\s defect or tr\ble ) ! lea!r4 ,x is n a mildew or gr[?1 b app>5tly an exudation ( mat]ials us$ 9 tann+4 ,,splits4 ,a "n appli$ to split lea!r1 t is1 two or m p>ts ( ! hide4 ,,spr+ ,,heel4 ,consi/s ( "o or m lifts us$ betwe5 ! outsole & upp]4 ,x is se5 mo/ly 9 *ildr5's %oes & is (t5 call$ w$ge heel4 ,x c also be put on outside in/ead ( "u ! outsole4 ,,/amp+4 ,! op]ation ( putt+ size & wid? on ! inside ( ! %oe4 ,p>ts ( ! upp]s are (t5 /amp$ or m>k$ s t ! :ole are put toge!r prop]ly 9 ! /it*+ room4 ,,/ay4 ,! "n giv5 to any piece ( lea!r put 9 ! upp] to /r5g!n x or to /r5g!n a seam4 ,,/amp+ ,,bottoms4 ,! op]ation ( /amp+ "n on bottom4 ,x is (t5 p]=m$ 9 f9i%+ rooms4 ,,/amp+ ,,c>ton4 ,putt+ ! size1 wid?1 & o!r m>ks on c>ton4 ,,/amp+ ,,sizes4 ,/amp+ sizes on heel "p ( ! sole4 ,,/&>d-,,fa/5$4 ,nail+ bottom on /&>d screw ma*9e4 ,,/ay+4 ,putt+ on a /ay1 g5]ally heel /ay4 ,,/it* ,,sep>at+4 ,m>k+ betwe5 /it*es s z to make !m %[ to good advantage4 ,,/it* ,,d[n4 ,a t]m appli$ to a flexible %oe us$ 9 ! army1 9 :i* ! top is turn$ out in/ead ( "u & /it*$ ?r\gh ! sole4 ,,/it*$ ,,al(t4 ,a t]m us$ to indicate t ! sew+ /it*es %[ on ! bottom4 ,no *annel is necess>y 9 ?is sole4 ,x may be a slight groove4 ,9 /it*+1 ! %oe is held bottom up1 !re=e ! "n 8/it*$ al(t40 ,,/raight ,,la/4 ,"o t is nei!r "r nor left1 & a %oe made ov] su* a la/ c be worn on ei!r foot4 ,?is t]m is sometimes appli$ to "r & left %oes t h a b>ely p]ceptible outside sw+4 ,,/ripp+4 ,consi/s ( cutt+ 9 /rips wide en\gh to cut soles all ( equal size 9 l5g?4 ,,su$e4 ,a trade t]m appli$ to kid sk9s1 f9i%$ on ! fle% side4 ,,sw+4 ,a t]m appli$ to ! curve ( ! out] edge ( a sole4 ,,tack+ ,,on4 ,consi/s 9 lay+ ! outsole on ,mc,kay's la/$ %oes4 ,,tack ,,pull+ ,,& ,,trimm+ ,,out4 ,consi/ ( prep>+ bottom = welt+4 ,x also makes x bett] = ! op]ation4 ,,tampico4 ,a v>iety ( goat sk9s com+ f ! prov9ce ( ,tampico1 ,c5tral ,am]ica4 ,,tap4 ,half ( a complete sole1 (t5 call$ half sole :5 us$ "u outsole4 ,,tan4 ,tan is a sort ( br[ni% lea!r4 ,,tann+4 ,tann+ is ! process ( conv]t+ hides or sk9s into lea!r4 ,,tap ,,trimm+4 ,%ap+ ! tap to con=m to ! sole4 ,,taw+4 ,! process ( mak+ lea!r by soak+ hides 9 a solution ( salt & alum1 or by pack+ !m d[n ) dry salt & p[d]$ alum4 ,us$ to prep>e sk9 rugs & furs4 ,,temp]+4 ,! op]ation ( wett+ ! lea!r 9 wat] to take h>dness out & make lea!r 8mull10 s t x may be work$ easi]4 ,,tip4 ,! toe piece :i* is /it*$ to ! vamp & outside ( x4 ,/ock tip is a tip ( ! same mat]ial z ! vamp4 ,pat5t tip is a pat5t lea!r tip4 ,diamond tip ref]s to ! %ape ext5d+ back to a po9t4 ,imitation tip-/it*+ across ! vamp is imitation ( a tip4 ,,tip ,,cutt+4 ,cutt+ ! tip :i* goes on ! toe ( ! vamp4 ,,toe ,,& ,,heel ,,la/+4 ,la/+ heel & toe4 ,,toe ,,piece4 ,a piece atta*$ to cut-(f vamp to l5g!n x4 ,,tongue4 ,a n>r[ /rip ( lea!r necess>y on all lac$ %oes4 ,,top4 ,! "p ( ! upp] above ! vamp2 tip ( %oe4 ,,top ,,cutt+4 ,cutt+ ! top only4 ,,top ,,fac+4 ,! /rip ( lea!r or b& ( clo? ar\nd ! top ( ! %oe on ! inside is call$ ! top fac+4 ,x adds to ! f9i% ( ! l9+1 & is sometimes us$ to adv]tise ! "n ( manufactur]s by a design ( lett]s wov5 or sew$ on x4 ,,top ,,lift4 ,! lift :i* is next to ! gr\nd4 ,,top ,,lift ,,sc\r+4 ,s&pap]+ top lift ( heel to make x smoo?4 ,,top ,,/it*+4 ,consi/s ( /it*+ across ! top & d[n ! side4 ,,tree+4 ,%ap+ ! %oe1 mak+ x smoo?4 ,produces ! same effect z iron+1 al?\gh no hot iron is us$4 ,x makes ! upp] plump & gives x a good f9i% & 8feel40 ,,trimm+ ,,cutt+4 ,cutt+ /ays1 fac+s1 & o!r small p>ts ( ! upp]4 ,,trimm+ ,,vamp4 ,cutt+ (f hang+ or surplus ?read4 ,,turn+4 ,to turn %oe "r side out4 ,also turn+ upp] "r side out4 ,,turn$ ,,%oe4 ,a lady's f9e %oe t is made wrong side out1 !n turn$ "r side out1 :i* op]ation necessitates ! use ( a ?91 flexible sole ( good quality4 ,! sole is fa/5$ to ! la/1 ! upp] is la/$ ov] x wrong side out1 !n ! two are sew$ toge!r1 ! ?read cat*+ ?r\gh a *annel cut 9 ! edge ( ! sole4 ,! seam does n come ?r\gh to ! bottom ( ! sole :]e x w\ld *afe ! foot on inside4 ,,upp]4 ,a t]m appli$ collectively to ! upp] p>ts ( a %oe4 ,,ungra9$4 ,smoo? surface4 ,,vamp4 ,! l[] or front "p ( ! upp] ( a %oe4 ,x is ! mo/ important piece ( ! upp] & %\ld be cut f ! /ronge/ & cleane/ "p ( ! sk94 8,cut-(f0 vamp is "o t ext5ds only to ! tip1 in/ead ( be+ cont9u$ to ! toe & la/$ "u ) ! tip4 ,:ole vamp is "o t ext5ds to ! heel )\t a seam4 ,,vamp+4 ,/it*+ ! vamp to ! top4 ,,vamp ,,cutt+4 ,cutt+ vamp ) or )\t ! tip4 ,,vel\r4 ,a f9i% = calf lea!r4 ,x is ! ,fr5* "n = velvet & is us$ 9 ! %oe trade = a pat5t *rome-tann$ calf lea!r4 ,x is an excell5t lea!r & has a smoo? & velvety f9i%4 ,,vellum4 ,a "n = sk9s t are made into a v>iety ( p>*m5t4 ,,v5e]+4 ,consi/s 9 mak+ soles1 :ole or "p1 heavi]1 by means ( lea!r-bo>d or o!r mat]ial fa/5$ to ! sole by an adhesive4 ,,ve/+4 ,a mat]ial orig9ally design$ = mak+ ve/s4 ,z us$ 9 %oes1 x is made ) fancy-figur$ weave1 hav+ a back+ ( /iff buckram or rubb]-treat$ tissue to /r5g!n x4 ,,viscoliz+4 ,a pat5t me?od ( wat]pro(+ sole lea!r by ! use ( p>tly emulsifi$ oils ) a wat]-resi/+ t5d5cy4 ,viscoliz$ soles are us$ 9 hunt+ & sport+ boots4 ,,vici4 ,a pat5t trade "n = a br& ( *rome-tann$ kid4 ,,wa% ,,lea!r4 ,an inf]ior quality ( *amois4 ,,welt4 ,a n>r[ /rip ( lea!r t is sew$ to ! upp] ( a %oe ) an insole leav+ ! edge ( ! welt ext5d+ outw>d1 s t ! outsole c be atta*$ by sew+ ?r\gh bo? welt & outsole1 ar\nd ! outside ( ! %oe4 ,! atta*+ ( ! sole & upp] ?us involves two sew+s1 fir/ ! insole1 welt & upp]1 !n ! outsole to ! welt4 ,! "n is appli$ to ! %oe itself :5 made 9 ?is way to di/+ui% x f a turn$1 or ,mc,kay sew$ %oe4 ,?is is ! me?od us$ by cobbl]s 9 ! production ( h&-sew$ %oes to fa/5 ! sole & upp] toge!r4 ,goodye> welt is a welt 9 :i* ! sew+ is done by a ma*9e nam$ = ! inv5tor4 ,!re are v few h&-welt$ %oes made4 ,,welt ,,beat+4 ,! flatt5+ out ( ! welt1 mak+ x smoo?4 ,,welt+4 ,sew+ ! welt to %oe4 ,,:ite ,,alum4 ,blea*$ lea!r taw$ ) :ite alum4 ,,wood5 ,,case4 ,l>ge box = twelve or m pairs4 ,,*apt] ,,t5 ,,lea!r ,,products ,,manufacture ,! use ( gloves is s old t relics ( !m h be5 f\nd 9 ! habitations ( ! cave dwell]s4 ,! ,romans us$ !m z decorative articles ( dress & ! ,greeks to protect ! h&s :5 do+ heavy "w4 ,! gloves ( ladies & g5tlem5 9 ! days ( ,que5 ,elizabe?1 & be=e & aft]1 7 mo/ beautiful 9 h& workman%ip & embelli%m5ts1 b !y 7 usually %apeless ?+s1 & 9 ^! days no "o w\ld we> !m2 !y are n to be comp>$ ) ! elegant /yle & arti/ic f9i% ( ! mod]n product4 ,:5 ! social _w 0 re/rict$1 s to speak1 9 ! numb]s ( its memb]s :o c\ld af=d "s ( life's luxuries1 ! use ( ! glove 0 conf9$ l>gely to royalty1 nobility1 & ! well-to-d4 ,& ! trade n be+ ext5sive1 prices 7 high--be+ add$ to by decorative elaboration 9 ne$lework 9 ord] t ! manufactur] & 8 employees might extract z mu* money z possible f ! ultimate buy]4 ,:ile glove mak+ is n[ "o ( ! /abilities ( mod]n manufacture1 x is1 nev]!less1 con/antly *ang+ 9 /yles1 due to eag]ness = novelties & new fa%ions4 ,glove mak+ ( lea!r1 9 a r\gh1 crude =m1 0 c>ri$ on 9 ?is c\ntry to a v limit$ ext5t 9 ,new ,york ,/ate z e>ly z #agfj1 by glove mak]s br\ght f ,scotl& to settle on ! grants ( ,sir ,william ,johnson1 9 ,fulton c\nty4 ,b !re 0 no g5]al m>ket = ! home product until "o 0 f\nd 9 ,albany 9 #ahbe4 ,^! e>ly gloves1 crude & clumsy1 7 cut ) %e>s f lea!r by means ( pa/ebo>d patt]ns1 & m5 did ! cutt+ & wom5 ! sew+4 ,dies 7 lat] introduc$1 & ?is l$ to a great improvem5t 9 ! "* ( ! output4 ,b a /ill great] /ep =w>d 0 tak5 :5 ! sew+ ma*9e 0 introduc$ 9 #aheb4 ,?is aboli%$ h&work entirely1 b /ill ! indu/ry rema9$ l>gely ( a dome/ic nature1 s9ce x c\ld be c>ri$ on at home ) a ma*9e z well z 9 a factory4 ,lat] /eam p[] 0 in/all$ 9 factories ) :i* to run ! ma*9es4 ,! cutt+ ( gloves1 & ! /it*+ on ! backs1 0 done be=e ! gloves 7 s5t out to be complet$ 9 work]s' homes4 ,z 9 ev]y?+ :]e9 p[] c be sub/itut$ = h& labor 9 ^! days1 ! me?ods ( glove manufacture h und]gone a great trans=mation4 ,! treat+ ( sk9s 9 a great tub1 ?ree feet deep1 :ole dye+ & sc\r+1 9 rooms ( high temp]ature1 has be5 displac$ by putt+ sk9s & colors into a cube-%ap$ box1 :i*1 revolv+ ) an irregul> motion1 produces ! same results m quickly ?an by ! primitive way4 ,b :5 color is to be appli$ to b "o side ! process is ! same z ( old1--h& use ( a bru% :ile ! sk9 is /ret*$ out on a slab4 ,:5 tak5 f ! /ock on h& to be made into gloves1 ! fir/ ?+ done to sk9s by "s glove mak]s is to 8fe$0 !m ) eggs--n eggs ( suspici\s m]its1 b good en\gh = table use4 ,& ( ^! no?+ is us$ b ! yolk4 ,"o glove mak] imports f ,*9a l>ge quantities ( ! yolks ( duck eggs = 8 "w1 & 8 ye>ly consumption ( yolks am\nts to sev5te5 ?\s&4 ,:5 ! sk9s leave ! dyeh\se1 !y are rapidly dri$ 9 /eam-heat$ l(ts2 & :ile /iff & r\gh !y are1 or 71 work$ into s(tness & smoo?ness ov] a wood5 upright /&>d1 call$ a /ake1 at ! top ( :i* is fitt$ a blunt semicircul> knife4 ,ov] ?is ! sk9 is drawn by h&1 back & =?1 until x becomes z pliable & delicate z silk4 ,:5 ?is "w 0 done manually x 0 mo/ labori\s4 ,b n[ x has be5 mo/ly tak5 ov] by v +5i\s ma*9]y1 :i* looks1 9 op]ation1 z if x w\ld te> a sk9 into fragm5ts by ! way x snaps & pulls at x1 b :i* is adju/able to su* nicety ( action & p[] t ! "w is done exactly z x is want$4 ,! next op]ation is to p>e ! sk9s to uni=mity ( ?ickness4 ,?is also 0 h&work = a long "t1 done ) a peculi>ly %ap$ knife1 b n[ em]y-coat$ :eels1 ) r\nd$ edges1 are us$ by ! work]s1 :o1 ) _! aid1 d j z good & mu* fa/] "w 9 draw+ & ?9n+ ! sk9s ) absolute precision4 ,?is completes ! treatm5t ( ! sk94 ,n[ ! function ( ! cutt] beg9s1 & he mu/ be a workman ( exp]i5ce & good judgm5t1 9 t he mu/ cont5d ) ! incon/ant inela/icity ( ! sk91 r$uc+ x to uni=m resi/ance4 ,he mu/ get s _m pieces ( glove size f ea* sk91 & suit ! pieces to p>ticul> features ( ! sk94 ,:5 done ) a sk9 he mu/ h left1 z useless1 only trifl+ /rips & %r$s4 ,! %apel9ess ( ! glove :i* a woman draws ov] h] h&1 dep5ds altoge!r ^u ! intellig5ce & skill ( ! cutt]4 ,9 ,am]ican factories ! cutt] is usually f "s glove-mak+ c5t] 9 ,europe & f a family ^: occupation has be5 glove mak+ = c5turies4 ,a pun* next cuts ^! glove pieces into %ape1 =m+ & divid+ ! f+]s1 slitt+ ! buttonholes1 provid+ side pieces = f+]s & ?umbs1 & also ! fragm5ts us$ = /r5g!n+ ! buttonholes4 ,! sew+1 =m]ly ! h&iwork ( wom51 is n[ done on ma*9es ( capacity = exceptionally f9e quality ( intricate /it*+4 ,! numb] ( glove sizes made is suffici5t to meet e likely dem&4 ,:5 sewn1 & ! buttons or fa/5+s put on1 !y pass b5ea? ! critical eye ( an inspector = scrut9y z to faults4 ,!n !y are f9ally %ap$ on a hot metal h&1 smoo!d1 b&$1 box$1 & s5t to ! salesroom = %ipm5t4 ,! fir/ & f\r? f+]s ( a glove are complet$ by gussets1 or /rips1 sew$ only on ! inn] side2 b ! second & ?ird f+]s require gussets on bo? sides to complete ! f+]s4 ,9 addition to ^!1 small1 diamond-%ap$ pieces are sew$ 9 at ! roots ( ! f+]s4 ,special c>e is necess>y 9 sew+ 9 ! ?umb pieces1 z poorly made gloves usually give way at ?is po9t4 ,natural l9$ gloves are n[ common en\gh1 al?\gh x is n _m ye>s s9ce !y 7 reg>d$ z impracticable4 ,^! are made f pelts ( v>i\s animals ) ! hair left on ! sk9 to =m ! l9+4 ,,automobile ,,& ,,furniture ,,lea!r ,= automobile & furniture lea!r only *oice hides %\ld be us$4 ,! k9d ( hides g5]ally employ$ = ?is class ( lea!r are ,fr5* & ,swiss1 z ^! run full & plump on ! bellies1 are free f cuts on ! fle% & are ( cle> gra94 ,! hides are trimm$ be=e plac+ !m 9 ! soak+ pits1 all useless p>ts1 su* z nose1 %anks1 etc41 be+ cut away4 ,aft] rema9+ 9 soak = a day or two1 ! hides are haul$ out1 fle%$1 & return$ to ! soaks = ?or\gh s(t5+4 ,:5 ?or\ghly soak$1 !y are toggl$ & reel$ into ! fir/ lime4 ,! fir/ lime mu/ be a weak1 mell[ lime1 or a h>% gra9 w %[ aft] ! lea!r is tann$4 ,! hides are reel$ ov] into /rong] limes e day = sev5 days1 :5 !y are ready = unhair+4 ,aft] com+ f ! limes1 ! hides %\ld g into a pit ( s(t wat] heat$ to ab\t n9ety degrees ,fahr5heit & left ov] night be=e />t+ 9 to unhair4 ,aft] unhair+1 !y are ?r[n into a vat ( clean wat] & ?or\ghly work$ out on ! gra9 to remove %ort hairs & scud & are !n ready = bat+4 ,"o t has a little bact]ial action is pref]r$ to an acid bate4 ,aft] bat+1 ! hides are giv5 a good scudd+ on ! gra9 & are !n ready = ! tann+ liquors4 ,! liquors are made ( hemlock & oak & are us$ v weak on ! />t4 ,! hides are susp5d$ = a day 9 a liquor n ov] six degrees specific gravity read+ 9 /r5g?1 & ! foll[+ day %ift$ ov] into a /rong] liquor4 ,! /ock is giv5 /rong] liquors e day until tann$ en\gh = splitt+4 ,! /ock is /ruck out smoo?ly & br\ght to ! ma*9e = splitt+4 ,! buff+ is fir/ tak5 away & sold = hat b&s1 pocket-books1 etc4 ,! gra9s are f9i%$ & ! splits are return$ to ! tann+ liquors to be ?or\ghly tann$4 ,z soon z ! splits are tann$1 !y are wa%$ up1 dra9$1 & !n drumm$ 9 ! drum 9 a sumac liquor4 ,!y are n[ sc\r$1 &1 aft] be+ well set out1 are giv5 a good oil+ ) cod oil4 ,!y are n[ tack$ out on ! frames & dri$ out4 ,!y are next tak5 f ! frames & bo>d$ by h& ov] ! table4 ,! splits are tak5 to ! japan %op & are tack$ out aga9 & are ready = ! fir/ coat ( daub4 ,two coats are appli$4 ,aft] ea* coat1 ! splits are well rubb$ d[n1 :5 !y receive ! slick] coat4 ,! color coats are n[ appli$1 & aft] dry+ out1 ! lea!r is gra9$ up & f9i%$4 ,,*apt] ,,elev5 ,,rubb] ,,%oe ,,manufacture ,exam9e ! rubb]s we we> dur+ ! w9t] & /ormy wea!r4 ,rubb] %oe cov]+s are made to protect ! %oe f wat] & sn[ & may be 9 ! =m ( ei!r slipp]s or arctics4 ,! cov]+ is r5d]$ wat]pro( by means ( a comp\nd rubb]4 ,rubb] is ! "n giv5 to a coagulat$ milky juice obta9$ f _m diff]5t trees1 v9es1 & %rubs t gr[ on t "p ( ! e>?'s surface :i* =ms a b& "s ?ree or f\r hundr$ miles on ei!r side ( ! equator4 ,illu/ration3 ,crude ,rubb]4 ,rubb] is grad$ comm]cially1 accord+ to ! di/rict :]e x is f\nd4 ,9 ! ord] ( importance x may be divid$ into ?ree g5]al sorts1 viz41 ,am]ican1 ,african1 & ,asiatic4 ,! be/ & l>ge/ quantities ( rubb] come f ,brazil1 along ! banks ( ! ,amazon ,riv]4 ,! c\ntries 9 ! nor!rn & we/]n "p ( ,s\? ,am]ica1 & ! ,c5tral ,am]ican ,/ates & ,mexico furni% consid]able rubb]4 ,ea/]n & we/]n ,africa also produce _m k9ds ( rubb] 9 l>ge quantities1 ?\gh some:at inf]ior to ! ,brazilian product4 ,! ,asiatic rubb]s are unimportant 9 quantity1 &1 except+ ! rubb] obta9$ f cultivat$ trees 9 ,ceylon1 are decid$ly inf]ior 9 quality4 ,! fluid rubb] obta9$ f ,brazil is call$ ,p>a & is us$ pr9cipally 9 ! manufacture ( rubb] footwe>4 ,! me?od ( ga!r+ & coagulat+ ! rubb] juice 7call$ latex7 v>ies 9 ! diff]5t c\ntries4 ,! native fir/ cle>s a space "u a numb] ( trees & proce$s to tap ! trees ) a %ort-h&l$ ax1 hav+ a small blade1 by cutt+ ga%es 9 ! b>k4 ,a cup is fix$ "u ea* cut to cat* ! fluid z x fl[s out4 ,z fa/ z ! cups are fill$1 !y are empti$ into a l>ge vessel & c>ri$ to ! camp to be coagulat$4 ,a fire is />t$ 9 a %all[ hole 9 ! gr\nd1 & palm nuts1 :i* make a d5se smoke1 are ?r[n on4 ,an e>!n cov] :i* has a small op5+ on top is plac$ ov] ! fire1 all[+ ! smoke to escape ?r\gh ! op5+4 ,a wood5 paddle is fir/ dipp$ 9 clay wat] & !n into ! latex & !n held ov] ! smoke4 ,! heat coagulates a ?9 lay] ( rubb] on ! paddle4 ,x is dipp$ aga9 & aga9 9 ! latex & smok$ ea* "t4 ,aft] be+ dipp$ _m times1 a lump 7call$ biscuit7 ( rubb] is =m$4 ,a cut is made 9 ! biscuit & ! paddle remov$4 ,!n ! rubb] is ready = m>ket4 ,! _w's crop ( rubb] 9 #aiaa 0 ab\t n9ety ?\s& tons4 ,few p realize ! numb] ( op]ations necess>y to produce f ! crude biscuit ( ,india rubb] ! highly f9i%$ rubb] %oe ( to-day4 ,briefly /at$1 ! v>i\s /eps are wa%+1 dry+1 comp\nd+1 cal5d]+1 cutt+ ! v>i\s p>ts1 mak+ or putt+ ^! p>ts toge!r1 v>ni%+1 vulcaniz+1 & pack+4 ,ea* ( ^! processes requires a di/9ct & sep>ate dep>tm5t1 & _m ( ^! processes are subdivid$ into m9or op]ations4 ,! huge /ock ( ,p>a rubb]1 t is rubb] obta9$ f ! ,amazon section1 to be f\nd 9 any ( ! lead+ rubb] factories c\nts well up into ! ?\s&s ( doll>s4 ,) rubb] at or ne> #a4ej p] p\nd1 a /ock ( t5 to fifty tons runs up into ! five or six figures4 ,?is crude rubb]1 z x comes f ! ,amazon1 conta9s m or less dirt1 pebbles1 & o!r =eign sub/ances1 :i* mu/ be remov$4 ,! l>ge cakes ( crude rubb] are fir/ brok5 up by a crack] ma*9e1 consi/+ ( two l>ge1 revolv+ /eel cyl9d]s1 f :i* ! product falls into pans or trays4 ,x goes !n to a ma*9e kn[n z a 8wa%]0 or 8%eet]10 :]e x is run betwe5 revolv+ cyl9d]s1 ^u :i* a cont9u\s spray ( clean wat] is ma9ta9$4 ,aft] be+ roll$ into r\gh %eets1 x is put into a tank1 f :i* x is tak5 to ! 8beat]0 ma*9e1 9 :i* wat] runs cont9u\sly1 & !n x is wa%$ aga9 & 8%eet$ out40 ,x is !n dri$ 9 "o ( two ways4 7#a7 ,! old] way4 ,! %eets are hung ov] rods 9 a l>ge room1 & all[$ to dry 9 ! air4 ,to facilitate ! same1 a fan or bl[] is (t5 us$ to cause a circulation & removal ( ! moi/ure-lad5 air4 ,?is requires a p]iod ( f "o to two or ?ree mon?s4 ,illu/ration3 ,wa%+ & ,dry+4 7#b7 ,! second me?od is call$ vacuum dry+4 ,?is process is gradually be+ introduc$1 s t n[ probably m rubb] is dri$ 9 vacuum ?an by air4 ,! vacuum dri] consi/s ( a l>ge iron cyl9d] fill$ ) plates1 ?r\gh :i* /eam is all[$ to circulate4 ,! rubb] is plac$ on ! plates & ! air is exhau/$ f ! cyl9d] by means ( an air pump until v ne>ly tw5ty-six degrees ( vacuum are obta9$4 ,by ?is process only f two to ?ree h\rs are requir$ to produce p]fectly dry rubb]4 ,! mak+ ( a rubb] %oe is n ! simple matt] :i* might at fir/ be suppos$4 ,an ord9>y rubb] %oe consi/s ( at lea/ sev5 or eight diff]5t p>ts1 sometimes tw5ty-"o p>ts to a pair1 :ile a high-button gait] has sev5te5 di/9ct p>ts1 & a rubb] boot has tw5ty-?ree diff]5t pieces4 ,!re are insoles1 outsoles1 /ays1 pip+1 fox+1 & a doz5 o!r diff]5t pieces1 ea* "o ( :i* is necess>y to ! prop] con/ruction ( a rubb] %oe or boot4 ,! ?9n] %eets = ! upp]s are cut by h&1 ! deft "w ( ! cutt]s 9 foll[+ ! patt]ns outl9$ on ! %eets be+ ! result ( ye>s ( practice4 ,! %eets ( rubb] f :i* ! upp]s & soles are cut are at ?is /age ( ! "w pla/ic & v /icky4 ,x is necess>y on ?is acc\nt to cut ! v>i\s pieces "o by "o1 & keep !m sep>ate4 ,! soles & "s ( ! heavi] pieces are dri$ out by ! ma*9e1 & ! heels are made by a special ma*9e1 b by f> ! great] "p is done by wond]fully skill$ h&s4 ,all ( ^! p>ts :i* g to make a %oe1 or ! tw5ty-?ree p>ts :i* g into a boot1 are collect$ & s5t to ! mak+ dep>tm5t1 :i*1 9 mo/ factories1 is a l>ge room conta9+ sev]al hundr$ op]atives1 ea* work+ by h]self1 & br++ ! _m sep>ate p>ts into ! fully f9i%$ footwe>4 ,illu/ration3 ,cal5d] ,room4 ,! %eets ( rubb]1 aft] be+ dri$1 are tak5 to ! 8comp\nd0 room1 :]e !y are spr9kl$ ) :it+1 to prev5t /ick+1 & weigh$4 ,next !y are tak5 into ! cal5d] room to a 8mix]10 by means ( :i* ! rubb] is comb9$ ) o!r sub/ances1 :i* include sulphur1 li?>ge1 :it+1 lampblack1 t>1 res91 lime1 palm oil1 & l9se$ oil4 ,!re are diff]5t cal5d]+ ma*9es4 ,! ones call$ ! upp] cal5d]s =m %eets ( rubb] /ock = ! upp] "p ( ! %oe4 ,! sol+ cal5d]s =m ! /ock = ! sole or bottom "p ( ! %oe2 o!r cal5d] ma*9es are us$ to coat a lay] ( gum on "o side ( ! fabrics us$ = l9+ & v>i\s /rips1 fill]s1 toe1 & heel pieces4 ,! gum %eets are s5t to ! cutt+ room4 ,g5]ally1 l9+s = n9e pairs ( %oes are cut at once4 ,! l9+s are cut bo? by h& & by ma*9e4 ,m5 :o cut ) dies1 by h&1 /& at ! b5* & use iron mallets1 l ^? us$ 9 cutt+ heels4 ,inn] soles1 heel pieces1 & l9+s are all cut by means ( dies 9 ! same mann]4 ,! edges ( ! sev]al p>ts are spread ) cem5t1 & !n ! p>ts are tak5 to ! mak+ room & di/ribut$4 ,9 ! mak+ dep>tm5t ! boots & %oes are put toge!r4 ,wom5 make ! light ov]%oes2 m5 make ! heavy ones4 ,rubb]s are made by wom51 b m5 put on ! out] soles4 ,l9+s are fir/ appli$ smoo?ly to a wood5 la/ & cem5t$ toge!r1 ! cem5t side out4 ,! rubb] p>ts are !n /uck on & roll$ firmly ) a small h& roll]4 ,"y wom5 become v skill$ 9 ?is "w1 tak+ up ! sev]al p>ts 9 rapid succession1 plac+ !m accurately ^u ! la/1 & roll+ & p\nd+ !m firmly toge!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,cutt+ ,room4 ,p]haps ! mo/ int]e/+ s+le process is t ( putt+ ! rubb] boot toge!r4 ,?is "w is done by m51 & requires1 9 addition to accurate eyesight1 rapid & v deft movem5ts ( ! h& & consid]able /r5g?4 ,no nails1 tacks1 or /it*+ are requir$4 ,! natural adhesiv5ess ( ! rubb]1 assi/$ by ! use ( rubb] cem5t1 holds ! p>ts solidly toge!r4 ,9 ! mak+ ( ! %oe ! la/ is cov]$ ) ! v>i\s pieces :i* are s made z to adh]e :]e !y are plac$4 ,x is exact & nice "w fitt+ all ^! pieces p]fectly1 ea* edge ov]lapp+ j s f> & no f>!r4 ,! light] %oes are made by wom51 b ! heavy lumb]m5's %oes1 arctics1 & especially ! boots1 are made by m51 = ?is "w ne$s /r5g? z well z dext]ity4 ,! goods :i* require v>ni%+ are put on racks & treat$ ) a mixture ( boil$ l9se$ oil1 naph?a1 & o!r mat]ials1 :i* are appli$ ) bru%es1 & imp>t a gloss to ! surface4 ,on vulcaniz+ boots & %oes1 ! %oes are plac$ on racks support$ by iron c>s1 :i* are run ov] tracks into ! vulcaniz+ *amb]4 ,?is consi/s pr9cipally ( a l>ge room provid$ ) a /eam coil on ! floor4 ,! temp]ature r>ely exce$s two hundr$ & sixty degrees ,fahr5heit4 ,9 vulcaniz+ %oes1 ! heat is increas$ gradually f ! beg9n+1 ab\t "o hundr$ & eighty degrees ,fahr5heit1 o!rwise ! goods w\ld be bli/]$1 due to ! rapid evaporation ( moi/ure & o!r volatile con/itu5ts4 ,!y are kept 9 ^! heat]s f six to sev5 h\rs4 ,?is causes a union ( sulphur & rubb]1 :i* is n affect$ by heat or cold4 ,!y are :eel$ on ano!r truck to ! pack+ room1 :]e !y are inspect$1 tak5 f ! la/s1 ti$ toge!r 9 pairs1 or plac$ 9 c>tons1 z ! case may be4 ,!y are !n s5t to ! %ipp+ room to be pack$ 9 cases ready to be deliv]$ to ! c>s wait+ at a side track ( ! railroad1 or s5t to ! /oreh\se until !y %all be call$ = by ! jobb]s or retail deal]s4 ,an important bran* ( ! rubb] bus9ess is ! manufacture ( t5nis %oes4 ,?is is a g5]ic t]m1 :i* is appli$ to all k9ds ( footwe> hav+ clo? tops & rubb] soles4 ,z ! "n indicates1 !y 7 fir/ us$ 9 play+ ! game ( t5nis1 b !y h come into v g5]al use z w>m wea!r & vacation %oes1 & e ye> %[s an increas$ popul>ity4 ,^! %oes are made 9 a simil> mann] to ! rubb] %oes1 ! rubb] soles be+ cem5t$ to ! clo? upp]s & vulcaniz$ ! same z ! rubb] ov]%oes4 ,_m diff]5t /yles are made1 & ea* ye> %[s "s improvem5ts 9 ! %apes1 9 ! textiles :i* are us$1 9 ! colors & comb9ations ( soles & upp]s4 ,rubb] %oes %\ld n be expect$ to give satisfactory s]vice unless prop]ly fitt$4 ,if too %ort1 too n>r[1 or if worn ov] lea!rs ) extra heavy taps1 or unusually ?ick1 wide soles1 /ra9s w be br\ght ^u p>ts n design$ to /& !m & ! rubb] w give way4 ,rubb] goods1 p>ticul>ly boots1 if too l>ge w wr9kle & a cont9u$ wr9kl+ & b5d+ is liable to cause crack+4 ,extreme heat or cold %\ld be avoid$4 ,rubb] boots or %oes %\ld nev] be dri$ by plac+ !m ne> a heat] ( any k9d4 ,if left ne> a /ove1 regi/]1 or radiator1 ! rubb] is liable to dry & crack4 ,if left out ( doors 9 w9t]1 or 9 an extremely cold place1 !y w freeze4 ,!n :5 ! w>m foot is put into !m & ! rubb]s are worn1 ! rubb] w crack4 ,oil1 grease1 milk1 or blood w cause rubb] to decay 9 a v %ort "t4 ,if spatt]$ ) any ( ^!1 ! rubb] %\ld be promptly & ?or\ghly clean$ ) w>m wat] & soap4 ,! oil 9 lea!r tops w rot rubb]1 s t c>e %\ld be tak5 9 /or+ & pack+ to prev5t ! lea!r & rubb] f com+ 9 contact4 ,illu/ration3 ,putt+ toge!r ! ,p>ts ( a ,rubb] ,%oe4 ,v>i\s heavy goods are adv]tis$ z pro( aga9/ snagg+4 ,x %\ld be rememb]$1 h[ev]1 t no rubb] c be made /rong en\gh to be absolutely pro( aga9/ te>+ or punctur+ by extremely %>p edges1 su* z /iff /ubble1 %>p-edg$ rocks1 brok5 glass1 etc4 ,mud1 b>ny>d dirt1 or fil? ( any k9d %\ld nev] be all[$ to dry on rubb]s4 ,!y %\ld be clean$ z c>efully z lea!r boots or %oes4 ,exposure to /rong sunlight = any l5g? ( "t produces an effect on rubb]s simil> to t ( putt+ !m ne> a /ove or radiator4 ,rubb]s %\ld n be left 9 ! sun to dry4 ,:5 n 9 use !y %\ld be kept 9 a cool1 d>k place4 ,,rubb] ,,heels ,rubb] heels are g5]ally made = boots & %oes z foll[s4 ,! comp\nd$ rubb] is %eet$ on a cal5d] roll1 on a drum1 until sev]al lay]s are obta9$1 ?us mak+ a %eet ( ab\t "o in* 9 ?ickness4 ,! heel is cut out f ?is %eet by means ( a die & plac$ 9 a mold4 ,x is !re subject$ to an extremely high pressure1 g5]ally obta9$ by hydraulic p[]4 ,! plates ( ! press are heat$ ) live /eam4 ,! heels are remov$ at ! end ( n9e or t5 m9utes & ! %eet :i* 0 =m]ly ne>ly an in* 9 ?ickness is n[ only ab\t half an in* & has by pressure be5 mold$ into ! %ape ( ! heel desir$1 is semi or p>tially vulcaniz$1 & also is impr9t$ ^u ! bottom ) ! "n or o!r br& ( ! company4 ,! cup-%ap$ portion ( ! heel is n[ coat$ ) a lay] ( rubb] cem5t1 & firmly plac$ on ! boot ready to g to ! vulcaniz]1 :]e vulcaniz+ ( ! heel is !n complet$4 ,illu/ration3 ,heel-mak+ ,dep>tm5t4 ,_m articles ( rubb] are vulcaniz$ by ! use ( *loride ( sulphur1 :i* process is sometimes kn[n z 8cold cure40 ,! action ( sulphur *loride itself is s viol5t t x mu/ be dilut$1 & = ?is purpose c>bon bisulfide is (t5 us$4 ,9 "s cases1 z1 = example1 ! manufacture ( tobacco p\*es1 ! articles are subm]g$ = f "o to two m9utes 9 ! liquid1 !n remov$ & wa%$ ?or\ghly4 ,9 ano!r case1 z 9 ! manufacture ( "s k9ds ( rubb] clo?1 su* z hospital %eet+1 ! coat$ clo? is susp5d$ 9 a suitable room & ! *loride ( sulphur & c>bon bisulfide mix$ & evaporat$ by action ( heat s t ! clo? is subject$ to ! action ( vapor alone4 ,only articles ) comp>atively ?9 walls c be successfully vulcaniz$ by ! cold cure1 z at be/ ! vulcaniz+ action ( ! *loride is only sup]ficial4 ,no acc\nt ( vulcanization processes z employ$ 9 ! manufacture ( rubb] goods is complete )\t ! m5tion ( 8/eam cure40 ,a great v>iety ( rubb] goods "u ! g5]al t]m ( me*anical sundries are cur$ by ?is me?od4 ,?is includes rubb] matt+1 door mats1 wat] bottles1 druggi/s' sundries1 etc4 ,?is process consi/s 9 brief ( submitt+ ! articles to be vulcaniz$ to ! action ( live /eam = f half an h\r to an h\r1 or until ! goods are ?or\ghly vulcaniz$4 ,! temp]ature & duration ( "t requir$ dep5d to a consid]able ext5t ^u ! ?ickness ( ! walls ( ! article4 ,9 ord] to prev5t ! goods f be+ pitt$ & damag$ by ! action ( /eam1 !y are wrapp$ ) clo? or imb$d$ 9 pans ( soap/one4 ,a great v>iety ( rubb] tub+ is cur$ by ?is me?od4 ,9 rubb] clo? mak+1 ! crude rubb] is put ?r\gh ! wa%+ process1 dri$ & mix$ ) sulphur1 li?>ge1 color+ matt]1 etc41 & !n is tak5 to ! cem5t room1 :]e x is 8cut0 ) naph?a1 =m+ a ?ick pa/e or d\gh4 ,?is is tak5 to ! spread+ room 9 l>ge tubs & f$ into ! roll] ma*9e1 :i* is l a long table made ( /eam pipes plac$ horizontally 9 a s+le lay]4 ,bel[ "o end is a roll ( clo?1 :i* is pass$ betwe5 two iron roll]s on ! end4 ,! d\gh is f$ 9 betwe5 ^! roll]s & is spread smoo?ly ov] ! clo?1 :i* is roll$ up & remov$ to a heat+ room1 :]e x is unroll$ & hung on racks1 & !n subject$ to suffici5t heat to cause ! comb9ation ( ! sulphur & rubb]4 ,,*emi/ry ,,9 ,,! ,,manufacture ,,( ,,rubb] ,,goods ,too mu* /ress _c be laid ^u ! importance 9 all rubb] factories ( ! *emical dep>tm5t4 ,dur+ ! la/ two or ?ree ye>s !re has be5 an unusual developm5t along ^! l9es1 & to-day no factory = ! manufacture ( rubb] goods is complete t does n possess a well-equipp$ laboratory4 ,n only does ?is dep>tm5t enable ! manufactur] to control ! purity & uni=mity ( 8 comp\nd+ +r$i5ts & ! innum]able grades ( crude rubb]1 b1 :at is ( ev5 great] importance1 x enables him to inaugurate rese>* "w z appli$ to 8 p>ticul> l9e ( manufacture4 ,?is "p ( laboratory "w is already produc+ results n only ( sci5tific int]e/1 b ( v great practical & economic value4 ,/ill ano!r rle ( ! mod]n *emical laboratory is to ex]cise a control ov] ! f9i%$ mat]ial1 s t ! manag] ( ! works may be 9 possession daily ( reasons = any v>iation detrim5tal to ! /&>d ( 8 products4 ,,rubb] ,,t]ms ,,ankle ,,piece4 ,a l>ge piece ( light %eet$ gum1 :i* goes ar\nd ! ankle & ext5ds ab\t halfway up ! leg4 ,,back ,,/ay4 ,a piece ( friction$ %eet+ simil> to ! side /ay 9 %ape & plac$ at ! back ( ! heel & ankle4 ,,gum ,,c\nt]4 ,a piece cut out ( %eet$ gum1 on ! "u side ( :i* is plac$ a c\nt] =m or a piece ( friction$ %eet+4 ,,out] ,,fill]4 ,a fill+ sole cut f rag-coat$ or friction$ %eet+1 & design$ to fill up ! holl[ on ! bottom caus$ by br++ ! edges ( ! gum vamp & c\nt] und]nea?4 ,,inn] ,,sole4 ,usually made ( felt or %eet+ coat$ on "o side ) rag /ock4 ,9 la/+ up1 ! bottom edges ( ! l9+ 7:i* h previ\sly be5 cem5t$7 are pull$ "u & adh]e to ! inn] sole4 ,,leg ,,cov]4 ,a piece ( %eet$ gum roll$ ^u a piece ( friction$ %eet+ call$ ! leg =m4 ,,leg ,,l9+4 ,! l9+1 usually ( felt or wool nett+1 = ! leg4 ,,p>a4 ,a "n giv5 to rubb] f ,brazil4 ,,pip+4 ,/rips ( friction$ %eet+ us$ to jo9 ! l9+ toge!r ov] ! in/ep & up ! back1 & also to hold ! l9+ up on ! tree by pass+ a /rip ov] ! top4 ,,rag ,,c\nt]4 ,qu>t] /iff is a c\nt] piece cut out ( rag-coat$ or friction$ %eet+1 :i* gives /iffness to ! c\nt]4 ,,side ,,/ay4 ,a spike-%ap$ piece ( friction$ %eet+1 plac$ on ea* side ( ! ankle4 ,,rag ,,sole4 ,a sole /iff5+ cut out ( a %eet ( rag /ock1 :i* cov]s ! :ole bottom4 ,! edges are skiv$ to make a p]fect edge4 ,,toe ,,fill]4 ,a rag-/ock fill+ sole to fill up ! holl[ on ! bottom caus$ by atta*+ ! l9+ to ! inn] sole4 ,illu/ration3 ,p>ts ( a ,rubb] ,boot4 ,,toe ,,l9+4 ,! l9+ = ! vamp1 ( ! same mat]ial z ! leg l9+4 ,,vamp4 ,a piece cut out ( %eet$ gum4 ,,vamp ,,=m4 ,a piece ( friction$ %eet+ cut to ! %ape ( ! vamp1 & put on ov] ! toe l9+4 ,,web ,,/raps4 ,/raps put on ) ! jo9$ ends betwe5 ! leg l9+ & ! leg cov]1 & =m+ a loop on ! inside ( ! boot to pull x on )4 ,,*apt] ,,twelve ,,hi/ory ,,( ,,footwe> ,we f9d t primitive footwe>1 9 common ) all o!r beg9n+s1 0 ( ! crude/ nature & took ! =m ( ! simple s&al4 ,x is probable t man fir/ protect$ 8 foot f ! r\gh way by simple pieces ( hide1 :i* 7 b\nd to ! bottom ( ! foot4 ,! s&al1 among ! mo/ primitive1 is ! type ( footwe> worn to-day4 ,! s&al 0 simply b\nd to ! foot by ?ongs ( hides1 :i* 7 br\ght betwe5 ! toes & ti$ ar\nd ! ankle4 ,at ab\t ! ,elizabe?an p]iod1 %oemak+ _h really become a v f9e art4 ,"s foot creations 7 made by ! ,c\rt %oemak]s t reflect$ ! individual ta/e ( ! mon>*1 & s great 0 ! competition to produce some?+ novel t v (t5 ! /yles assum$ a grotesque aspect4 ,! toes 7 elongat$ s t sometimes !y 7 c>ri$ up & fa/5$ by cords & tassels to ! tops ( ! %oes1 & x f9ally became necess>y to enact a law to prev5t su* outrage\s types ( footwe>4 ,! slipp]s ( ?is p]iod 7 ( ! extremely high-heel$ v>iety1 & small =tunes 7 (t5 sp5t on _! ornam5tation4 ,!y 7 mo/ly ( ! turn-%oe type1 & samples :i* are pres]v$ %[ ! excell5t workman%ip t 0 9 vogue at t "t4 ,we n[ come to ! fir/ %oemak] 9 ,am]ica4 ,:5 ! ,mayfl[] made ! second trip to ,am]ica1 %e c>ri$ among o!rs a %oemak] nam$ ,?omas ,be>d1 :o br\ght ) him a supply ( hides4 ,sev5 ye>s aft]w>ds !re arriv$ "o ,phillip ,k]tl&1 a native ( ,buck+ham%ire1 :o settl$ 9 ,lynn 9 #afcf4 ,k]tl& 0 ! pione] %oemak] ( ,lynn & = ye>s he successfully work$ at 8 craft1 tea*+ o!rs 8 me?ods & ways1 s t fifte5 ye>s aft] 8 arrival1 ,lynn 0 n only supply+ ! requirem5ts ( its inhabitants1 b 0 also s5d+ a "p ( its products to ! port ( ,bo/on4 ,z e>ly z #afdh we f9d tann+ & %oemak+ m5tion$ z an indu/ry ( ! colony ( ,virg9ia1 special m5tion be+ made ( ! fact t a plant] nam$ ,mat!ws employ$ eight %oemak]s on 8 premises4 ,legal re/ra9t 0 plac$ on ! cordwa9] 9 ,connecticut 9 #afef1 & 9 ,rhode ,isl& 9 #agjf1 :ile 9 ,new ,york ! bus9ess ( tann+ & %oemak+ is kn[n to h be5 firmly e/abli%$ previ\s to ! capitulation ( ! ,prov9ce to ,engl& 9 #affd4 ,9 #afih ! indu/ry 0 c>ri$ on pr(itably 9 ,philadelphia1 & 9 #agba ! ,colonial ,legislature ( ,p5nsylvania pass$ an act regulat+ ! mat]ial & ! prices ( ! boot & %oe indu/ry4 ,prior to #ahae mo/ ( ! %oes 7 h& sew$1 a few hav+ be5 copp] nail$4 ,! heavi] %oes 7 welt$ & ! light] ones turn$4 ,?is me?od ( manufacture 0 *ang$1 ab\t ! ye> #ahae1 by ! adoption ( ! wood5 %oe peg1 :i* 0 inv5t$ 9 #ahaa & soon came into g5]al use4 ,up to ?is "t little or no progress _h be5 made 9 ! me?ods ( manufacture4 ,! %oemak] sat on 8 b5*1 & ) sc>cely any o!r in/rum5t ?an a hamm]1 knife1 & wood5 %\ld] /ick1 cut1 /it*$1 hamm]$1 & sew$ until ! %oe 0 complet$4 ,previ\s to ! ye> #ahde1 :i* m>k$ ! fir/ successful application ( ma*9]y to ,am]ican %oemak+1 ?is indu/ry 0 9 ! /ricte/ s5se a h& process1 & ! "y man :o *ose x = 8 vocation 0 appr5tic$ = sev5 ye>s1 dur+ :i* "t he 0 taught e detail ( ! art4 ,he 0 in/ruct$ 9 ! prep>ation ( ! insole & outsole1 dep5d+ almo/ entirely ^u 8 eye = ! prop] proportions2 taught to prep>e pegs & drive !m1 = ! pegg$ %oe 0 ! common type ( footwe> 9 ! fir/ half ( ! la/ c5tury2 & famili>iz$ himself ) ! mak+ ( turn$ & welt %oes1 :i* h always be5 consid]$ ! highe/ types ( %oemak+1 z !y require exceptional skill ( ! artisan 9 *annel+ ! insole & outsole by h&1 r\nd+ ! sole1 sew+ ! welt1 & /it*+ ! outsole4 ,aft] hav+ s]v$ 8 appr5tice%ip1 x 0 ! cu/om = ! full-fl$g$ %oemak] to />t on :at 0 kn[n z 8:ipp+ ! cat10 :i* meant travel+ f t[n to t[n1 liv+ ) a family :ile mak+ a ye>'s supply ( %oes = ea* memb]1 !n mov+ on to fill engagem5ts previ\sly made4 ,! *ange f :i* has be5 evolv$ our pres5t factory sy/em began 9 ! latt] "p ( ! #ah? c5tury1 :5 a sy/em ( sizes _h be5 draft$1 & %oemak]s m ent]pris+ ?an _! fell[s ga!r$ ab\t !m gr\ps ( workm51 & took ^u !mselves ! dignity ( manufactur]s4 ,x 0 soon f\nd t ! ma/] workman c\ld l>gely increase 8 income by employ+ o!r m5 to d ! "w :ile he direct$ _! ef=ts1 & ?is gradually l$ to a division ( ! labor3 ! %oe upp]s1 :i* _h prior to ?is "t be5 sew$ by m5 us+ wax$ ?read ) bri/les1 n[ 7 done by wom51 :o (t5 took ! "w home4 ,"o workman cut ! lea!r1 o!rs sew$ ! upp]s1 & /ill o!rs fa/5$ upp]s to soles1 ea* workman h&l+ only "o "p 9 ! process ( manufacture4 ,we f9d t 9 ! ye> #agie ! evolution ( ! factory sy/em _h rea*$ a /age :]e 9 ,lynn alone !re 7 two hundr$ ma/] workm51 employ+ six hundr$ j\rneym5 & turn+ out ?ree hundr$ ?\s& pairs ( %oes p] ye>4 ,! entire %oe 0 !n made "u "o ro(1 & g5]ally f lea!r t 0 tann$ on ! premises4 ,factory build+s 7 n at ?is "t ( a v pret5ti\s nature & did n by any means repres5t ! am\nt ( "w und]tak5 by ! proprietor2 = ! small t5 by t5 factories1 :i* are ev5 to-day 9 exi/5ce 9 "s ( ! backy>ds ( ,lynn homes1 came into exi/5ce at ?is "t4 ,_m f>m]s f\nd t %oemak+ 0 a remun]ative occupation 9 ! w9t]1 & !y1 & p]haps _! neighbors1 ga!r$ 9 ^! %ops & took f ! diff]5t factories %oes on :i* to fa/5 ! soles1 or upp]s to b9d1 :i*1 aft] completion ( ! "w1 7 return$ to ! factory1 :]e !y 7 f9i%$ & s5t to m>ket pack$ 9 wood5 boxes4 ,x 0 9 ?is way t ! indu/ry prosp]$ & develop$ up to ! p]iod ( ! introduction ( ma*9es1 :i* happ5$ b a little ov] half a c5tury ago4 ,up to ! ye> #ahaa absolutely no ma*9]y 0 us$ 9 ! mak+ ( %oes4 ,?is ye> %oe pegs 7 inv5t$ & a ma*9e = mak+ !m4 ,! pegg$ %oe became v widely worn1 b x 0 n until #ahce t any ma*9e = driv+ pegs 0 made1 & ev5 at ?is "t ! ma*9e 0 b an indiff]5t success4 ,x 0 a h& ma*9e & its "w 0 by no means ( a reliable nature4 ,! fir/ ma*9e to be widely accept$ by ! trade 0 ! 8roll+ ma*9e40 ,?is 0 us$ = roll+ ! sole lea!r "u pressure1 & x is said t a man c\ld p]=m 9 a m9ute ) ?is ma*9e ! same (fice t he w\ld h requir$ half an h\r to h p]=m$ ) ! old-fa%ion$ lap/one & hamm]4 ,?is 0 foll[$ 9 #ahdh by ! mo/ important inv5tion1 ! 8sew+ ma*9e10 :i* 0 p]fect$ by ,elias ,h[e1 & 0 soon foll[$ by a ma*9e :i* sew$ ) wax$ ?read & made x possible to sew ! upp]s ( %oes 9 a mu* m rapid1 reliable1 & satisfactory mann] ?an _h ev] be5 done by h&4 ,?is1 too1 0 soon foll[$ by a ma*9e :i* split ! sole lea!r & by ano!r = buff+ or remov+ ! gra94 ,9 #ahee ,william ,f4 ,tr[bridge1 :o 0 a p>tn] 9 ! firm ( ,f4 ,brigham ,company1 ( ,feltonville1 ,massa*usetts1 !n a "p ( ,m>lboro1 conceiv$ ! idea ( driv+ by horse p[] ! ma*9es !n 9 use4 ,! introduction ( p[] became v g5]al1 s t 9 ! ye> #ahfj !re 7 sc>cely any factories :i* 7 n driv5 by ei!r /eam or wat] p[]4 ,! ye> #aheh 0 m>k$ by ! inv5tion by ,lyman ,r4 ,blake ( ! ,mc,kay sew+ ma*9e1 :i* probably m ?an any o!r has ex]t$ a revolution>y effect on ! indu/ry4 ,! ,mc,kay ma*9e did n at ?is "t sew ! toe or heel2 ! sew+ 0 />t$ at ! %ank & c>ri$ =w>d to a po9t ne> ! toe on "o side1 & ! same op]ation repeat$ on ! o!r side2 b x seem$ to possess great possibilities & creat$ a great deal ( int]e/ ?r\gh\t ! trade4 ,x 01 ( c\rse1 a v crude ma*9e & v diff]5t f ! ,mc,kay ma*9e ( to-day4 ,x 0 set on a b5* & ! %oe to be sew$ 0 plac$ ov] a horn1 & ! sew+ 0 done f ! *annel 9 ! outsole ?r\gh ! sole & insole4 ,colonel ,mc,kay imm$iately />t$ to improve ! ma*9e4 ,he employ$ skill$ me*anics to "w on x & attempt$ to introduce x 9 diff]5t factories1 b enc\nt]$ a great deal ( opposition & criticism 9 reg>d to its future4 ,x is said t he (f]$ to dispose ( ! ma*9e to ! %oemak]s ( ,lynn & all[ !m its exclusive use if !y w\ld pay him ?ree hundr$ ?\s& doll>s1 an (f] :i* 0 n accept$4 ,! ma*9e left a loop /it* & a ridge ( ?read on ! inside ( ! %oe1 b x fill$ ! great dem& t exi/$ = sew$ %oes1 & _m hundr$s ( millions ( pairs h be5 made by its use4 ,:ile ,colonel ,mc,kay _h met rebuff & disc\ragem5t 9 attempt+ to introduce 8 ma*9e1 ! public necessity 0 su* t manufactur]s 7 oblig$ to take x up imm$iately2 b ,colonel ,mc,kay 0 /ill emb>rass$ by lack ( capital to c>ry on 8 rapidly increas+ bus9ess4 ,x 0 at ?is "t t a sy/em ( plac+ ma*9es 9 factories1 :i* sy/em has prov5 to be ! mo/ pot5t factor 9 ! upbuild+ ( ! %oe indu/ry1 0 />t$4 ,?is 0 a royalty sy/em1 :]eby ! ma*9e or ma*9e own] p>ticipat$ 9 ! pr(its accru+ f ! use ( ! ma*9e4 ,x h>dly seems t !re c be any "q z to ! pr9ciple ( royalty be+ "o ( ! greate/ =ces 9 build+ up ! successful indu/ry :i* we h to-day2 x af=d$ an easy means :]eby ma*9es c\ld be introduc$ )\t entail+ h>d%ips on ! manufactur]s1 :o1 _h !y be5 oblig$ to pay ! actual wor? ( ! ma*9es1 w\ld h be5 entirely unable to adopt !m4 ,in/ances are kn[n :]e hundr$s ( ?\s&s ( doll>s 7 sp5t on ma*9es1 :i* ma*9es 7 ab&on$ )\t hav+ made a s+le %oe4 ,at ! "t ( ! introduction ( ! ,mc,kay ma*9e1 inv5tors 7 busy 9 o!r directions1 & z a result1 came ! introduction ( ! 8cable nail+ ma*9e40 ,?is 0 provid$ ) a cable ( nails1 ! head ( "o be+ jo9$ to ! po9t ( ano!r2 ^! ! ma*9es cut into sep>ate nails & drove automatically4 ,at ab\t ?is "t also 0 introduc$ ! 8screw ma*9e10 :i* =m$ a screw f brass wire1 =c+ x into ! lea!r & cutt+ x (f automatically4 ,?is 0 ! prototype ( ! 8rapid /&>d screw ma*9e10 :i* is a comp>atively rec5t inv5tion1 & is v widely us$ at ! pres5t "t z a sole fa/5] on ! heavi] class ( boots & %oes4 ,v soon !reaft] ! att5tion ( ! trade 0 attract$ to ! inv5tion ( a ,new ,york me*anic = ! sew+ ( soles4 ,! device 0 p>ticul>ly int5d$ = ! mak+ ( turn %oes & aft]w>ds became fam\s z ! 8,goodye> turn %oe ma*9e40 ,closely foll[+ ! ,goodye> inv5tion came ! introduction ( ! fir/ ma*9e us$ 9 connection ) heel+1--a ma*9e :i* compress$ ! heel & prick$ holes = ! nails2 ?is 0 soon foll[$ by a ma*9e :i* automatically drove ! nails1 ! heel hav+ previ\sly be5 put 9 place & held by ! guides on ! ma*9e4 ,o!r improvem5ts 9 heel+ ma*9es foll[$ ) consid]able rapidity1 & a ma*9e came into use %ortly aft]w>ds :i* n only nail$ ! heel1 b :i* 0 also provid$ ) a h& trimm]1 :i* ! op]ator swung r\nd ! heel1 aft] nail+4 ,f ^! h be5 evolv$ ! heel+ ma*9es 9 use at ! pres5t "t4 ,"o ( ! e>ly uses to :i* ! sew+ ma*9e 0 put 0 ! sew+ toge!r ( ! pieces ( s(t & pliable lea!r :i* make ! upp] ( a %oe--a simple ?+1 involv+ only a slight adju/m5t ( ! orig9al ma*9e4 ,x is a f> m complicat$ op]ation to sew ! upp] to ! ?ick & heavy sole1 & ye>s pass$ by be=e ! secret 0 discov]$1 & ! ,mc,kay ma*9e appe>$4 ,9 ! %oe sew$ on ! ,mc,kay ma*9e1 ! ?read ran ?r\gh into ! inside ( ! inn] sole1 leav+ a rasp+ ridge on :i* ! /ock+ ( ! we>] rubb$4 ,! ,mc,kay %oe displac$ only ! co>s] grades4 ,! h&-sew$ %oe rema9$ ! favorite ( weal? & fa%ion1 & 0 worn exclusively by ^? :o c>$ = com=t & c\ld af=d ! price4 ,9 sew+ a %oe by h&1 a ?9 & n>r[ /rip ( lea!r1 call$ a welt1 is fir/ sew$ to ! insole & upp]1 & ! heavy outsole is sew$ to ?is welt1 s t ! /it*es come outside & d n t\* ! foot1 ! insole be+ left entirely smoo?4 ,x is a delicate op]ation by h&1 & _m ye>s elaps$ be=e a ma*9e 0 contriv$ by :i* x c\ld be done4 ,at la/ ! problem 0 solv$4 ,! 8,goodye> welt+ & /it*+ ma*9es0 appe>$--s nam$ = ,*>les ,goodye>1 :o f9anc$ & p]fect$ !m1 a son ( ! man :o taught ! _w ! use ( rubb]4 ,^! two ma*9es are ! nucleus ( ! ,goodye> welt sy/em1 to :i* mu/ be attribut$ ! revolution ( an indu/ry4 ,al?\gh !y are entirely di/9ct ma*9es1 !y are insep>able1 = nei!r c be us$ effectively )\t ! o!r 9 mak+ ! mod]n ,goodye> welt %oe4 ,illu/ration3 ,insole = ,h& ,sew$ ,%oe4 ,illu/ration3 ,h& ,sew$ ,%oe4 ,mu* ( ! /yle ( a %oe dep5ds ^u ! wood5 la/ ov] :i* ! upp] is %ap$ be=e be+ atta*$ to ! sole4 ,to f9d a sub/itute = ! human h& 9 fitt+ ! %oe to ! la/ & pull+ ! lea!r ov] its delicate l9es & curves seem$ = a long "t impossible4 ,?is took place 9 ! e>ly sev5ties1 :5 a ma*9e 0 inv5t$ = do+ ?is "w4 ,x creat$ a great *ange 9 a dep>tm5t ( %oemak+ :i*1 prior to ?is "t1 _h be5 reg>d$ z a confirm$ h& process4 ,?is ma*9e1 z well z ^? :i* foll[$ aft]w>ds = a p]iod ( tw5ty ye>s1 0 kn[n z ! be/ type ( ma*9e1 by :i* ! %oe upp] 0 drawn ov] ! la/ by ei!r friction or p9c]s1 & !n tack$ by use ( a h& tool4 ,at a comp>atively rec5t p]iod ano!r ma*9e :i* revolutioniz$ all previ\s ideas 9 la/+ 0 introduc$4 ,?is ma*9e is g5]ally 9 use at ! pres5t "t1 & is kn[n z ! 8consolidat$ h& me?od la/+ ma*9e40 ,x 0 fitt$ ) p9c]s1 :i* automatically drew ! lea!r r\nd ! la/1 at ! same "t driv+ a tack :i* held x 9 place4 ,?is ma*9e has be5 s develop$ t x is n[ us$ = ! la/+ ( %oes ( e type1 f ! l[e/ & *eape/ to ! highe/ grade1 & x is a ma*9e t %[s wond]ful me*anical +5uity4 ,! p]fection ( ! la/+ ma*9e has be5 foll[$ rec5tly by ! introduction ( a ma*9e :i* p]=ms 9 a satisfactory way ! difficult process kn[n z 8pull+ ov]10 :i* consi/s ( accurately c5t]+ ! %oe upp] on ! la/ & secur+ x tempor>ily 9 position = ! "w ( la/+4 ,! new ma*9e1 :i* is kn[n z ! 8h&-me?od pull+ ov] ma*9e10 is provid$ ) p9c]s1 :i* close automatically1 gripp+ ! %oe upp] at sides & toe4 ,x is fitt$ ) adju/m5ts by :i* ! op]ator is enabl$ to quickly c5t] ! %oe upp] on ! la/1 &1 on pressure ( a foot lev]1 ! ma*9e automatically draws ! upp] closely to ! la/ & secures x 9 position by tacks1 :i* are also driv5 by ! ma*9e4 ,! introduction ( ?is ma*9e m>k$ a radical *ange 9 ! "o important %oemak+ process t _h up to ?is "t successfully )/ood all attempts at me*anical improvem5t4 ,at ab\t ! "t t la/+ 0 fir/ introduc$1 came ! ma*9es :i* 7 us$ = f9i%+ heel & =e "p4 ,^! ma*9es 7 fitt$ ) a tool1 :i* 0 heat$ by gas & :i* practically duplicat$ ! h& workman 9 rubb+ ! edges ) a hot tool = ! purpose ( f9i%+ !m4 ,f ^! e>ly ma*9es h be5 evolv$ ! 8edge-sett+ ma*9es0 :i* are 9 use at pres5t4 ,?us1 "o aft] ano!r1 e op]ation has yield$ to inv5tion1 until v rec5tly ! only rema9+ process 0 subdu$ :5 a ma*9e = cutt+ upp]s 0 devis$4 ,!re are ma*9es = %ap+1 compress+1 & nail+ heels2 = atta*+ soles to upp]s 9 heavy %oes by wood5 pegs or copp] screws & wires2 = r\nd+1 buff+1 & poli%+ ! soles2 = trimm+ & sett+ ! edges ( ! sole2 = p]=m+ innum]able op]ations1 "s seem+ly trivial1 b all ess5tial to p]fection 9 com=t1 durability or /yle2 s t 9 %oe factories to-day a great] v>iety ( intricate & exp5sive ma*9es is us$ ?an 9 factories ( any o!r k9d4 ,at ! pres5t "t ! g5ius ( ! ,am]ican inv5tor has provid$ = e detail ( %oemak+1 ev5 ! smalle/ processes be+ p]=m$ by me*anical devices ( "s k9d4 ,?is has naturally made ! %oemak] ( to-day a speciali/1 :o v seldom kn[s any?+ ( %oemak+ ap>t f ! p>ticul> process 9 ! p]=mance ( %oemak+ ( :i* he is an adept1 & f :i* he e>ns a livelihood4 ,! ,am]ican %oe ( to-day is ! /&>d production ( ! _w4 ,x is 9 dem& :]ev] %oes are worn4 ,9 ! ye> #ahgd !re _h be5 p]fect$ n only ! ma*9es :i* ,colonel ,mc,kay & ,mr4 ,goodye> _h be5 in/rum5tal 9 build+1 b o!r inv5tors _h introduc$ simil> ma*9es = do+ simil> "w4 ,?is br\ght ab\t ! mo/ acute bus9ess competition1 & f9ally result$ 9 _m cases :]e "o ma*9e manufactur] alleg$ t ! o!r ma*9e infr+$ 8 rights ( pat5t1 & 9 _m o!r cases ! fi]ce/ k9d ( litigation 0 e/abli%$4 ,?is _h a mo/ disa/r\s effect ^u %oe manufactur]s1 = 9 _m cases ! manufactur] 0 made to be> ! brunt ( ! bl[s :i* cont5d+ %oe ma*9]y manufactur]s aim$ at ea* o!r4 ,ma*9es 9 use 9 factories 7 /opp$ by means ( injunctions2 damage suits 7 ent]$1 & litigation 0 v g5]al4 ,dur+ ! ye> #ahii1 !re 0 u%]$ 9 "o ( ! mo/ important ev5ts t ev] transpir$ 9 ! hi/ory ( %oemak+4 ,! mo/ important ( ! conc]ns :i* _h be5 mak+ w> ^u ea* o!r 7 pur*as$ by "o l>ge company & br\ght "u "o h>moni\s managem5t4 ,! ,unit$ ,%oe ,ma*9]y ,company owes its orig9 to a call = a *ange 9 conditions m5ac+ ! indu/ry ( mak+ %oes :i* c\ld n be ignor$4 ,x 0 creat$ by comb9+ into "o ! ?ree companies exi/+ 9 #ahii3 ! ,goodye> ,sew+ ,ma*9e ,company1 ! ,consolidat$ ,mc,kay ,la/+ ,ma*9e ,company1 & ! ,mc,kay ,%oe ,ma*9]y ,company1 ea* ( :i* respectively made & leas$ ma*9es adapt$ to a p>ticul> class ( op]ations4 ,! pr9cipal ma*9es :i* ea* made did n int]f]e ) ! pr9cipal ma*9es ( any o!r4 ,!y 7 dep5d5t l9ks 9 an indu/rial *a94 ,! ,goodye> ,sew+ ,ma*9e ,company *iefly made ma*9es = sew+ ! sole to ! upp] 9 welt %oes & v>i\s auxili>y ma*9es :i* help$ to complete ! %oe2 ,! ,consolidat$ ,mc,kay ,la/+ ,ma*9e ,company made ma*9es = la/+ a %oe2 ,! ,mc,kay ,%oe ,ma*9]y ,company made v>i\s ma*9es = atta*+ soles & heels by metallic fa/5+s1 & furni%$ mat]ial = t purpose4 ,a s+le manufactur]1 9 ord] to make ,goodye> welt %oes1 w\ld be compell$ to patronize all ! companies1 go+ to ea* ( !m = t "p ( 8 equipm5t :i* x exclusively suppli$4 ,ea* company _h its ag5ts 9 factories look+ aft] its ma*9es4 ,! ga!r+ ( ^! ?ree companies into a s+le organization wr\ght an in/ant *ange4 ,x result$ imm$iately 9 great] economy ( adm9i/ration2 9 reliev+ ! manufactur] ( ! vexation ( sometimes see+ 8 factory crippl$ :ile ord]s 7 pil+ up2 9 free+ him f ! annoyance & exp5se ( deal+ ) sev]al diff]5t conc]ns 9 ord] to get 8 mo/ important ma*9es & keep !m 9 repair4 ,! att5tion :i* _h be5 paid to royalty ma*9es & :i* _h be5 su* an important factor 9 build+ up ! indu/ry 9 ,am]ica1 0 magnifi$ by ! managem5t ( ! new company4 ,l>ge =ces ( m5 & exp]t ma*9i/s1 z well z exp]t %oemak]s1 7 ma9ta9$ 9 ! diff]5t di/ricts :]e %oes 7 made1 & e ef=t ex]t$ to promote ! gr[? ( ! indu/ry4 ,:ile ! royalty sy/em prov$ to be ( great advantage to small %oe manufactur]s1 ! l>ge/ manufactur]s object$ to pay+ royalty on ma*9es & desir$ to pur*ase !m outright4 ,be+ unable to d s1 !y plac$ exp]ts at "w to inv5t simil> ma*9es4 ,?is has result$ 9 ! ,unit$ ,%oe ,ma*9]y ,company claim+ t ^! ma*9es are infr+em5ts & caus+ consid]able litigation4 ,if "o reviews ! hi/ory ( ! trade dur+ ! pa/ t5 ye>s1 !re w be little "q b t "o w f9d x has be5 a p]iod ( ! greate/ advancem5t t ! trade has ev] kn[n4 ,)9 ! "t ( ^? :o read ^! words1 ! way to make a %oe has be5 completely *ang$4 ,me?ods :i* held _! own = c5turies h disappe>$1 to be replac$ by processes :i* only rec5tly w\ld h be5 ?\ght impossible1 & :i* h br\ght )9 ! rea* ( m5 ( mode/ means a luxury once enjoy$ exclusively by ! well-to-d4 ,! feet ( ! million are clad to-day z f9ely z ! feet ( ye/]day's millionaire4 ,%oes m>k$ by com=t1 durability1 & /yle h driv5 to hi/orical museums ! /iff & clumsy boots & brogans :i* n s _m ye>s ago 7 worn by ^? :o c\ld n pay to h %oes sew$ by h&4 ,! ,am]ican p sp5d m ?an ?ree hundr$ million doll>s e ye> 9 buy+ %oes1 & av]age ?ree pairs apiece1 & yet few ev] ?9k ab\t _! %oes s long z !y d n look clumsy1 or we> out too quickly1 or hurt ! foot4 ,e "o likes to buy good %oes z *eaply z he c1 & e "o likes to feel t %oe manufactur]s are indep5d5t & successful1 & t workm5 get good wages1 because ^! ?+s help along prosp]ity2 b t is all4 ,yet "h is an indu/ry 9 :i* ! ,unit$ ,/ates )9 a decade has come to lead ! _w1 & !re are _m ?+s ab\t x :i* x w\ld be wor? :ile = e "o to und]/&4 ,x is wor? :ile1 = in/ance1 to "k t !re is no important op]ation on a %oe :i* ne$ be done by h&2 t 9 ! mak+ ( e good %oe no less ?an fifty-eight diff]5t ma*9es1 & sometimes twice t numb]1 are br\ght into play2 t ne>ly all ^! ma*9es are ( ,am]ican inv5tion2 & t !y h be5 s p]fectly adju/$ "o to ano!r t !y "w toge!r almo/ ) ! precision ( a wat*2 x is wor? :ile to "k some?+ ab\t ! m>vel\s sy/em "u ! enc\ragem5t ( :i* ?is typical ,am]ican indu/ry has blossom$ & borne fruit until x employs two hundr$ million doll>s ( capital & ne>ly two hundr$ ?\s& p1 & turns out two hundr$ & fifty million pairs ( %oes a ye>2 & :y x is t ! av]age man y meet to-day has a bett] fitt+1 bett] we>+1 & bett] look+ %oe ?an ! money$ man ( ye/]day--at a fraction ( ! exp5se4 ,?is rem>kable gr[? is di/9ctly ,am]ican4 ,9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates ! t5d5cy among ! artisan class has be5 to ab&on ! sl[ h& process4 ,?is t5d5cy has be5 z /rong z ! t5d5cy 9 ,europe to adh]e to x4 ,moreov]1 !re has develop$ among ! labor+ classes 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates a mobility su* z is unkn[n else:]e 9 ! _w4 ,ano!r advantage :i* has contribut$ to ! rapid developm5t ( ! manufacture ( %oes 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates is ! comp>ative fre$om f inh]it$ & ov]cons]vative ideas4 ,?is c\ntry has ent]$ ^u its indu/rial developm5t unfett]$ by ! old ord] ( ?+s1 & ) a t5d5cy on ! "p ( ! p to seek ! be/ & quicke/ way to accompli% e object4 ,illu/ration3 ,/it*+ ,room ( a ,g]man ,%oe ,factory4 ,9 all ( ! ,european c\ntries 9 :i* ! manufactur+ ( %oes is an important indu/ry1 ! transition f ! h\sehold to ! factory sy/em 0 hamp]$ by guilds1 elaborate national & local re/rictions1 & by ! national reluctance ) :i* a p accu/om$ = g5]ations to fix$ me?ods ( "w1 9 :i* !y h acquir$ a l>ge degree ( skill1 ab&on ^? me?ods = new ones4 ,x 0 natural1 also1 t 9 spite ( ! sup]ior advantages ( ma*9e me?ods1 h& process ( manufacture %\ld /ill cont9ue side by side ) !m1 9 ! ,european c\ntries1 ?\gh ma*9e "w _h long s9ce usurp$ ! :ole field ( ! %oe indu/ry 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,z an ,am]ican goes ab\t among ! ,european %oe factories he is greatly surpris$ at ! /ate ( affairs4 ,he is /ruck by ?ree ?+s :i* are v conspicu\s4 ,!y are3 7#a7 ,lack ( use ( ma*9]y1 lack ( all sorts ( devices 9 ord] to save h& labor1 :i* is c>ri$ out s ext5sively 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 7#b7 ,lack ( ! division ( labor1 "o factory attempt+ to make f\r or five k9ds ( %oes4 7#c7 ,lack ( me?ods employ$ = h&l+ l>ge quantities ( mat]ials4 ,"o po9t t is ov]look$ 9 consid]+ ! %oe indu/ries ( ! two c\ntries is ! great diff]5ce 9 organization4 ,9 mo/ ,european factories1 ! manufactur] gets all ! ord]s ( diff]5t k9ds1 & !n attempts to make "o or two l9es ) "o or two qualities 9 ! same factory4 ,9 ,switz]l& "o may f9d %oes & slipp]s = m51 wom51 & *ildr5 made "u ! same ro(4 ,9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates ! manufactur] makes a c]ta9 l9e ( %oes 9 "o factory1 & no o!r k9d4 ,if he has m ?an "o l9e1 he has m ?an "o factory1 & ea* factory turns out a di/9ct %oe = a di/9ct purpose4 ,! manufactur] has 8 salesm5 to sell ^! %oes4 ,! advantages ( ! ,am]ican sy/em are3 7#a7 ,! manag]s & work]s ( a factory turn+ out a c]ta9 l9e ( goods become highly specializ$ 9 t l9e1 & c produce bett] results ?an ! work]s 9 a factory attempt+ to make two or ?ree l9es ( goods4 7#b7 ,a l>ge %oe factory is laid out z a rule to d a c]ta9 k9d ( "w1 & x seldom *anges4 ,?is practice makes possible a great] production4 ,on ! o!r h& we h some?+ to le>n f ! ,european organization4 ,am]ican manufactur]s mu/ meet ! =eign trade4 ,9 ord] to d ?is1 ! manufactur] mu/ cat] to ! habits1 cu/oms1 & climatic conditions4 ,! ,european manufactur] does ?is4 ,,index ,amhide1 black1 #eh4 russet1 #ei4 ,anatomy ( ! foot1 #gg1 #hj4 ,ankle piece1 #bdf4 ,assembl+1 #abf1 #agg4 ,automobile lea!r1 #bbe4 tann+ (1 #bbf4 ,backs1 #ab4 ,back/ay1 #b1 #agg1 #bdg4 ,back /rap1 #agg4 ,bal41 #agg4 ,ball1 #agh4 ,bat+1 #ai4 ,bead+1 #agh4 ,beamh\se process1 #e4 ,beat+ out1 #agh4 ,bell[s tongue1 #agh4 ,belt+1 #fb1 #fc1 #agh4 by-products1 #fi4 r\nd1 #fi4 ,belt-knife splits1 #fj4 ,betwe5 sub/ance1 #agh4 ,bison1 #ei4 ,blackball1 #agh4 ,black box *rome side1 #eh4 ,black hawk pat5t1 #eh4 ,black+ ! edge1 #agi4 ,block+1 #agi4 ,bloom1 #agi4 ,blu*]1 #agi4 ,boot1 #ahj4 ,bootee1 #ahj4 ,boris1 #ei4 ,bottom1 #a4 fill+1 #ahj4 sc\r+1 #ahj4 ,box calf1 #ee1 #ahj4 toe1 #aha4 ,box+1 #ahj4 ,br&$ c[hide1 #i4 ,break+ ! sole1 #aha4 ,brea/ ( ! heel1 #c4 ,brogan1 #aha4 ,bronko pat5t1 #eg4 ,bru%+1 #aha4 ,bucksk91 #aha4 ,buff1 #aha4 ,buff+1 #aha4 ,bull hides1 #af4 ,bunions1 #hd4 ,button fly1 #b4 ,butts1 #i4 ,cable-nail+ ma*9e1 inv5tion (1 #bfa4 ,cack1 #ahb4 ,cadet kid1 #ef4 side1 #eg4 ,calf lea!r1 bo>d$1 #dj4 box1 #dj4 classes (1 #dj1 #da4 cadet calf side1 #eg4 ,dongola1 #ei4 dry hides1 #dj4 ,fr5*1 #dj4 mat1 #dj4 ,%eboygan1 #ei4 /orm1 #dj4 su$e1 #dj4 wax1 #dj4 ,calf side lea!r1 #eg4 sk9s1 #ci1 #ahb4 ,calluses1 #hc4 ,cambridge calf union splits1 #fj4 ,cap1 #ahb4 ,c>b>ettas1 #ea1 #aha4 ,c>ton1 #ahb4 ,cem5t+1 #ahb4 ,*amois1 #ahb4 ,*annel+1 #ahc4 ,*annel screw$1 #ahc4 /it*$1 #ahc4 turn+1 #ahd4 ,*eck+1 #ahd4 ,*emical tann+1 #bc1 #bd1 #be4 ,*rome flexible splits1 #fa4 tannage1 #be1 #bf4 tann$ emboss$ splits1 #fb4 ,clean+1 inside1 #ahd4 nails1 #ahd4 %oes1 #ahd4 ,click+1 #ahd4 ,clos+1 #ahd4 on1 #ahd4 ,colonial1 #ahe4 ,colorado /e] hides1 #i4 ,color$ box *rome side1 #eh4 ,coltsk91 #da1 #ahe4 ,comb9ation la/1 #ahe4 ,composition1 #ahe4 ,congress gait]1 #ahf4 ,cordovan1 #ahf4 ,corns1 #hc1 #hd4 ,c\nt]1 #abd1 #ahf4 pa/$1 #bja4 ,c\pon tag1 #ahg4 ,c[hide1 #ahg4 native1 heavy & light1 #g-i4 br&$1 #i4 ,creas+ vamp1 #ahg4 ,cre$more1 #ahg4 ,creole1 #ahg4 ,crimp+1 #ahh4 ,cu%ion sole1 #ahh4 ,cut-(f vamp1 #ahh4 ,dye+1 #ahh4 ,dom ,p$ro1 #ahh4 ,dongola1 #ahh4 calf1 #ei4 ,dress+1 #ahh4 ,dry importation1 #dj1 #da4 salt$ hides1 #ab1 #cb4 ,edge sett+1 #ahh4 trimm+1 #ahh4 ,enamel1 #ahi4 ,eyelet1 #ahi4 ,eyelett+1 #ahi4 ,fac+1 #ahi4 ,factory sy/em1 fir/1 #bed4 ,fair /it*1 #ahi4 ,fak+1 #ahi4 ,fat liquor$1 #bg4 ,f9d+s1 #ahi4 ,f9i%es ( upp] lea!r1 #ch4 ,f9i%+ ( upp] lea!r1 #e4 ,flap1 #aij4 ,fle%]1 #ah4 ,fle% splits lea!r1 #ch1 #fj4 ,flexible b5ds1 #fa4 splits1 #fa4 ,foll[]1 #aij4 ,foot1 #gg4 adult1 #hg4 anatomy (1 #gg1 #gh4 a/ragalus1 #gh4 calcaneum1 #gh4 *>act]i/ics (1 #ha4 cunei=m1 #gi4 flatfoot1 #gh4 measurem5ts (1 #ie4 metat>sal1 #gi4 phalanges1 #gi4 rheumatism1 #gi4 /ructure (1 #hf4 ,footwe>1 hi/ory (1 #bej4 ,=ep>t f9i%+1 #aij4 ,=m1 #aij4 ,fox$1 #aij4 ,fox+1 #b1 #aij4 ,fre% hides1 #g4 ,frizz+1 #aia4 ,front1 #aia4 ,fudge-/it*$1 #acc4 ,fundam5tal %oe t]ms1 #a4 ,furniture lea!r1 #bbe4 tann+ (1 #bbf4 ,gait]1 #aia4 congress1 #ahf4 ,gem insoles1 #aia4 ,gemm+1 #aia4 ,glaz$ kid1 #aia4 ,gloves1 #bah4 gra91 #aia4 tann+1 #bba4 ,goatsk91 #aia4 ,goodye> welt1 #aib4 diff]5ce betwe5 ,mc,kay &1 #ade4 ,gore1 #aib4 ,grades ( lea!r1 #g4 ,grad+1 #aib4 ,gra9 lea!r1 #ch4 ,gre5 hides1 #g4 ,gre5 salt$1 #ab4 ,gum c\nt]1 #bdg4 ,half sole1 #aib4 ,h>ness lea!r1 #aib4 ,heel1 #aib4 brea/ (1 #c4 f9i%+1 #aic4 l9+1 #aic4 nail+1 #aid4 nail+ ma*9e1 inv5tion (1 #bfb4 pad1 #aic4 sc\r+1 #aid4 seat1 #aid4 %av+1 #aid4 trimm+1 #aid4 ,hemlock lea!r1 #bi4 tann+1 #bi1 #cj1 #aid4 ,h]cules /orm *rome1 #ei4 ,hides1 #d1 #aid4 bull1 #aj1 #fc4 classes (1 #e1 #f4 c\ntry1 #aj4 dry1 #ab1 #cb4 dry importation1 #dj1 #da4 dry salt$1 #ab1 #cb4 fre%1 #g4 grades (1 #g1 #h1 #i4 gre51 #g4 gre5 salt$1 #ab1 #cb4 import$1 #cb4 quality (1 #f4 ,inlay1 #aid4 ,inn] sole1 #bdg4 ,inseam+1 #aie4 ,inseam trimm+1 #aie4 ,in/ep1 #aie4 ,iron1 #aie4 ,iron+ upp]s1 #aif4 ,juliette1 #aif4 ,kid1 bucksk91 #eb4 buff1 #eb4 ca/]1 #ea4 *amois1 #eb4 *>act]i/ics (1 #di4 ,cordovan1 #eb4 dull1 #di4 glaz$1 #di1 #ej4 importation (1 #de4 kang>oo1 #eb1 #aif4 kang>oo kid side1 #eh4 k9ds ( f9i%1 #di4 mat1 #di1 #ej4 me?od ( collect+1 #df-dh4 pat5t1 #di4 process ( tann+1 #di4 seal gra91 #eb4 splits1 #eb4 su$e1 #ea4 ,kids1 #da1 #dd1 #aif4 ,kips1 #e1 #aif4 ,lace hook1 #aif4 /ay1 #b1 #aif4 ,lac+1 #aig4 ,la/+1 #aig4 ,la/s1 #ig1 #aig4 comb9ation1 #ahe4 h[ made1 #ig4 ,lay+ *annel1 #aig4 ,lea!r1 #d4 automobile & furniture1 #bbf4 belt+1 #fb4 effect ( cold1 #ec4 gloves1 #bah4 glove tann+1 #bba4 h>ness1 #aib4 hemlock1 #bi4 products1 manufacture (1 #bah4 :ite1 #ed4 ,leg cov]1 #aih4 l9+1 #aih4 ,level+1 #aig4 ,lift1 #aig4 ,l9+1 #aig4 ,l9+-91 #aih4 ,lip1 #aij4 ,load+ lea!r1 #aih4 ,mat royal *rome side1 #eh4 ,mc,kay %oe1 #add1 #aih1 #aii4 diff]5ce betwe5 ,goodye> welt &1 #ade4 diff]5ce betwe5 turn$ &1 #aeb4 ,middle sole1 #aii4 ,mock welt1 #aii4 ,mold+1 #aii4 ,monkey sk91 #aii4 ,morocco1 #aii4 ,mules1 #aii4 ,nap1 #aii4 ,native c[hides1 #i4 /e] hides1 #i4 ,naumkeag+1 #aii4 ,nullifi]1 #bjj4 ,oak-tann$ lea!r1 #bh1 #bjj4 ,oak tann+1 #bh1 #bi4 ,ohio buffs1 #aj4 ,ooze gusset splits1 #fa4 lea!r1 #bjj4 vamp splits1 #fb4 ,ottawa1 #ei4 black & russet splits1 #fj4 ,out] fill]1 #bdg4 ,outside cutt+1 #bjj4 tap1 #bjj4 ,ox=d1 #bjj4 calf union splits1 #fj4 ,pack] hides1 #bja4 ,pack+1 #bja4 ,pacs1 #bja4 ,pancake1 #bja4 ,p>a1 #bdh4 ,pa/$ lea!r1 #bja4 ,pat5t lea!r1 #da-dc1 #bja4 black hawk1 #eh4 effect ( cold on1 #dc4 objections to1 #dd4 ,patt]n1 #bja4 ,pebble1 #bjb4 ,pegg$ %oemak+1 #afj4 ,pegg+1 #bjb4 ,p]=at+1 #aah4 ,p]=ation1 #bjb4 ,pickl$ sk9s1 #ah4 ,pip+1 #bdh4 ,poli%1 #bjb4 ,porpoise1 #bjb4 ,press+1 #bjb4 ,pull+ la/s1 #bjb4 ,pull+ ov]1 #bjb4 ma*9e1 #abg4 ,pump1 #bjb4 sole1 #bjb4 ,qu>t]1 #b1 #bjc4 ,rag c\nt]1 #bdh4 ,r&1 #bjc4 ,ra:ide products1 #fg4 ,rela/+1 #bjc4 ,remnants1 #cc4 sole lea!r1 #cc-cg4 ,repair+1 #bjd4 ,roan1 #bjd4 ,roll+1 #bjd4 ma*9e1 inv5tion (1 #beg4 ,r\gh r\nd+1 #bjd4 ,royal kid1 #ef4 ,royalties1 #bjd4 ,royalty sy/em1 inv5tion (1 #bfj4 ,rubb]1 #bbh4 clo? manufacture1 #bdd4 comm]cial grades (1 #bbh4 dry+1 #bcb4 heels1 #bda4 %oe manufacture1 #bbh4 cal5d]+1 #bce4 cutt+1 #bce4 v>ni%+1 #bcg4 vulcaniz+1 #bcg4 wa%+1 #bca4 ,russet calf1 #bjd4 gra91 #bjd4 ,sabot1 #bjd4 ,sack l9+1 #bjd1 #bjg4 ,s&al1 #bje1 #bej4 ,sat9 calf1 #bje4 ,sc\r+ brea/1 #bje4 ,screw fa/5$1 #bje4 ,seal gra91 #bje4 ,second la/+1 #bje4 ,sew+ ma*9e1 inv5tion (1 #beg4 ,%ank1 #a1 #bje4 burni%+1 #bjf4 f9i%+1 #bjf4 ,%ank+ out1 #bjf4 ,%eboygan calf1 #ei4 ,%eepsk91 #bjf4 ,%eep tann+1 #af1 #ag4 ,%oe1 #ajc4 appr5tice1 #bec4 case (1 #aji4 cutt+ room1 #aab4 dep>tm5ts (1 #ajc4 dress+1 #adb4 factories1 #ajc4 f9i%+1 #ach4 heel+1 #adj4 me?ods ( manufacture1 #ajc4 p>ts (1 #a4 repair+1 #afg1 #agj4 sizes1 #he1 #bjg4 /it*+1 #aai1 #aca4 tree+1 #adj4 ,%oe ,ma*9]y ,company1 organization (1 #bgj4 ,%oemak]1 fir/1 9 ,am]ica1 #bea4 ,%oemak+1 #afb4 old-fa%ion$1 #afb4 nail me?od1 #afa4 t]ms (1 #agg4 ,%oe pegs1 inv5tion (1 #beg4 ,%\ld]1 #aif4 ,sides1 #bjf4 ,side /ay1 #bdh4 ,sk9s1 #f1 #bjg4 ,skirt+1 #bjg4 ,skiv]1 #ah1 #bjg4 ,skiv+ ma*9e1 #aag4 ,slip1 #bjg4 ,slugg+1 #bjg4 ,soak+ process1 #ac1 #ai4 ,s(t tip1 #bjg4 ,sole1 #aa1 #abc1 #bjh4 lea!r1 #bg1 #bh1 #bjh4 lay+1 #bjh4 break+ (1 #aha4 ,sort+1 #bjh4 ,spew+1 #bjh4 ,splits1 #aa1 #fj-fb1 #bji4 ,spr+ heel1 #bji4 ,/amp+1 #bji1 #baj4 ,/&>d fa/5$1 #baj4 screw %oemak+1 #afj4 ,/ay1 #bji4 ,/ay+1 #baj4 ,/e] hides1 native1 #i4 ,/it* al(t1 #baj4 ,/it* d[n1 #baj4 fair1 #ahi4 sep>at+1 #baj4 ,/it*+1 rapid1 #bjc4 ,/raight la/1 #baj4 ,/ripp+1 #baa4 ,/yles1 h[ made1 #ic4 ,su$e1 #baa4 ,tack+ on1 #baa4 ,tack pull+1 #baa4 ,tampico1 #baa4 ,tan1 #baa4 royal1 #ef4 ,tann$ lea!r adult]ants1 #ge4 effects ( p]spiration1 #ga4 lubrication1 #gb4 prop]ties1 #gj4 sub/itutes1 #gc1 #gd1 #gf4 weigh+1 #ge4 ,tann91 #ba4 ,tann+1 #d1 #ba1 #baa4 *emical1 #ba4 hemlock1 #bi1 #cj4 lea!r = belt+1 #fd1 #fe1 #ff4 oak1 #bh1 #bi4 processes (1 #ba4 rapid processes (1 #be4 taw+1 #ba1 #bab4 ,union1 #cj1 #ca4 vegetable1 #ba4 ,tap1 #baa4 putt+ on1 #bjb4 trimm+1 #bab4 ,taw+1 #bab4 ,temp]+1 #bab4 ,t5nis %oe manufacture1 #bci4 ,texas /e] hide1 #i4 ,tip1 #b1 #bab4 cutt+1 #bab4 ,toe1 & heel la/+1 #bab4 box1 #aha4 fill]1 #bdh4 l9+1 #bdh4 piece1 #bac4 ,tongue1 #b1 #bac4 ,top1 #a1 #bac4 cutt+1 #bac4 fac+1 #bac4 left1 #bac4 left sc\r+1 #bac4 left /it*+1 #bac4 ,tree+1 #bac4 ,trimm+ c\nt]1 #bac4 vamp1 #bac4 ,turn$ %oe1 *>act]i/ics (1 #aef4 diff]5ce betwe5 ,mc,kay &1 #aeb4 hi/ory (1 #aeh4 ,turn+1 #bad4 %oe1 #aea1 #bad4 ,ungra9$1 #bad4 ,unhair+ ( hides1 #ae1 #ai4 ,union-tann$ lea!r1 #cj1 #ca4 ,union tann+1 #cj1 #ca4 ,upp]1 #a1 #bad4 ,upp] or dress lea!r1 #cg1 #ch1 #ee-eg4 ,vamp1 #a1 #bad1 #bdi4 creas+1 #ahg4 cutt+1 #bae4 =m1 #bdi4 %ort1 #bjf4 ,vamp+1 #bae4 ,vegetable tann+1 #bb4 tans1 #bb4 ,vellum1 #bae4 ,vel\r1 #bae4 ,v5e]+1 #bae4 ,ve/+1 #bae4 ,vici1 #baf4 ,viscoliz+1 #baf4 ,vulcaniz+1 #bdc4 cold cure1 #bdc4 /eam cure1 #bdc4 ,wa% lea!r1 #baf4 ,wat]pro( black1 #eh4 ,wax$ ?reads1 #afd4 ,web /raps1 #bdi4 ,welts1 #abi1 #baf4 beat+1 #bag4 ,goodye>1 #aib4 ,welt+1 #bag4 ,:ite alum1 #bag4 ,will[ calf lea!r1 #ee4 ,wood5 case1 #bag4 ,zulu1 #ei4