,,india ,,impressions ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,manik>nik ,,gh,t ,,b5>es ,,india ,,impressions ,,) ,,"s ,,notes ,,( ,,ceylon ,,dur+ ,a ,,w9t] ,,t\r1 #aijf-g ,,by ,,walt] ,,crane1 ,r4,w4,s4 ,,) ,a ,,frontispiece ,,9 ,,col\r ,,& ,,num]\s ,,o!r ,,illu/rations ,,f ,,sket*es ,,by ,,! ,,au?or ,illu/ration ,,new ,,york ,,! ,,macmillan ,,company #aijg ,,to ,,my ,,wife ,,my ,,travell+ ,,companion ,,on ,,?is ,,t\r1 ,,& ,,to ,,:om ,,! ,,project ,,0 ,,due1 ,i ,,n[ ,,inscribe ,,its ,,record ,illu/ration ,,preface ,al?\gh _m books descriptive ( ,india & ,indian life h rec5tly appe>$1 ev5 a %ort visit to t wond]ful c\ntry pres5ts s extraord9>y a s]ies ( spectacles to ! ,european1 especially to "o see+ ! ,ea/ = ! fir/ "t1 t x occurr$ to me t a few notes & fre% impressions f an arti/'s po9t ( view1 accompani$ by sket*es made on ! spot1 z well z illu/rations ( ! light] side ( travel1 might n be )\t int]e/ to ! public4 ,ev5 ap>t f ! enorm\s arti/ic int]e/ & ar*itectural spl5d\rs ( ,india1 :i* are s ri* & abundant t "o feels t hundr$s ( draw+s w\ld be necess>y to give any adequate idea ( _! beauty1 !re is ! human int]e/ ( ^! va/ populations1 among :om s _m /reams ( race1 language & religion are f\nd1 n to speak ( ! problems ( gov]nm5t & adm9i/ration !y pres5t4 ,i _c claim to h _h any special facilities 9 see+ ! c\ntry--no m at lea/ ?an might be at ! comm& ( an ord9>y ,engli% t\ri/1 & h tru/$ *iefly to :at p[]s ( obs]vation ,i may possess 9 describ+ ! v>i\s cities visit$1 & ! di/ricts trav]s$1 & ,i (f] ^! notes /rictly z p]sonal impressions4 ,ow+ to ev] increas+ facilities ( travel1 ! ,ea/ is1 9 a s5se1 drawn ne>] to ! ,we/1 or1 r ! ,we/ to ! ,ea/1 b no?+ /rikes ! travell] s mu* z ! app>5tly va/ gulf divid+ ! d>k-sk9n$ races f ! :ite--a gulf deep] & wid] ?an ! oceans4 ,i mean ! pr(\nd diff]5ces 9 ideas1 9 religion1 9 s5tim5t1 9 life1 habit & cu/om4 ,we/]n influ5ce :]e ev5 x has _h any app>5t effect--ap>t f comm]cial ent]prise--seems to be b a ?9 v5e]1 & x is a con/ant wond] h[ ! ,briti% %\ld h be5 able to acquire & ma9ta9 _! grasp ov] ?is va/ p59sul>1 & to hold ! balance betwe5 antagoni/ic races & cre$s s long4 ,b x is n a com=table ?\ght = an ,engli%man1 lov+ fre$om1 & accu/om$ to ! pr9ciples ( popul> & repres5tative gov]nm5t at home1 to realise t ?is va/ empire is held "u ! /ricte/ autocratic sy/em2 & t ! national aspirations t are n[ beg9n+ to make !mselves he>d & felt %\ld be entirely ignor$1 & ! voice ( native feel+ /]nly suppress$4 ,"o c only hope t ! great ,briti% p w take m tr\ble to /udy & und]/& _! great ,dep5d5cy1 & n be prev5t$ by (ficial explanations f mak+ indep5d5t inquiries & obs]vations = !mselves1 & f9ally to 8be j & fe> n40 ,if1 h[ev]1 9 any way & f any po9t ( view1 ^! impressions may s]ve1 9 h[ev] slight a degree1 to increase ! int]e/ ( my own c\ntrym5 & wom5 9 ,india1 ,i %all be v glad4 ,,walt] ,,crane ,,k5s+ton1 ,july #aijg ,,cont5ts ,,*apt] ,,page ,,preface vii ,i4 ,,! ,,voyage #a ,,ii4 ,,bombay ,,& ,,! ,,caves ,,( ,,ellora #ba ,,iii4 ,,ahm$abad #dh ,,iv4 ,,ahm$abad ,,to ,,ajmir #fb ,v4 ,,*itorg>h ,,& ,,udaipur #gd ,,vi4 ,,jaipur #if ,,vii4 ,,agra #aab ,,viii4 ,,gwalior #abg ,,ix4 ,,delhi #add ,x4 ,,amritz> ,,& ,,lahore #afa ,,xi4 ,,luckn[ #ahe ,,xii4 ,,b5>es #bjj ,,xiii4 ,,calcutta--,,d>jeel+ #bah ,,xiv4 ,,madras ,,& ,,! ,,s\? #bci ,,xv4 ,,notes ,,( ,,ceylon #bij ,,index #cai ,,li/ ,,( ,,illu/rations ,,9 ,,! ,,text ,,page ,,r\gh ,,sket* ,,map ,,( ,,india xvi ,,london ,,to ,,port ,,said1 ,a ,,hi]oglyphic ,,( ,,our ,,voyage #c ,,coal+ ,,at ,,port ,,said--,,& ,,aft]6 #f ,,spoil+ ,,! ,,egyptians8 ,,or ,,be+ ,,despoil$ ,,by ,,!m6 #g ,,s5sation ,,9 ,,sol> ,,topis #g ,,! ,,suez ,,canal #i ,,! ,,passage ,,( ,,! ,,r$ ,,sea 7,,!rm3 #hh ,,or ,,s67 #ab ,,9 ,,! ,,same ,,boat--,a ,,contra/ ,,at ,,ad5 #ad ,,"s ,,types ,,among ,,our ,,fell[ ,,pass5g]s #ag ,,l&+ ,,at ,,bombay #bb ,,await+ ,,! ,,cu/oms--,,bombay #bc ,,/reet ,,p]=m]s--,,bombay #bd ,,int]view ,,) ,,c&idates ,,= ,,! ,,po/ ,,( ,,be>]--,,mo/ly ,,unbe>able6 #ca ,a ,,b$ ,,at ,,! ,,dak ,,bungal[6 ,,munmad 7,,keep ,,x ,,da7,r7,k7 #ce ,,we ,,are ,,introduc$ ,,to ,,! ,,caves ,,( ,,ellora #ci ,,& ,,its ,,wasps #db ,,! ,,feet ,,( ,,pilgrims 7,,at ,,mohamm$an ,,mosques7 #ej ,,poor ,,relations #eb ,a ,,family ,,p>ty--,,cranes ,,on ,a ,,mango ,,tree 7,,s>b>mati ,,riv]7 #ed ,,/reet ,,sc5e1 ,,ahm$abad4 ,,engli% ,,travell]s ,,sket*+ ,,& ,,mak+ ,,pur*ases #eg ,,! ,,camel',s ,,cr9ol9e 7,,sug> ,,cane7 ,,ajmir #ga ,,fir/ ,,elephant ,,ride4 7,,*itorg>h7 #gh ,,rajputs ,,& ,,_! ,,r>ities4 7,,udaipur7 #he ,,hotel ,,accommodation 7,,jaipur71 8,,= ,,y\r ,,ease ,,& ,,com=t0 7,,or ,,r ,,= ,,! ,,eas+ ,,( ,,y\r ,,rupees87 #ih ,,to ,,amb] ,,on ,,an ,,elephant #ajf ,,%opp+ ,,9 ,,jaipur #aji ,,aggravat+ ,,agra #aae ,,! ,,ma9/ay ,,( ,,india4 ,,aqu>ius--,,! ,,wat]-,,be>] #aai ,,to ,,gwalior ,,=t ,,by ,,palanqu9 #abi ,,call]s ,,at ,,! ,,gue/ ,,h\se1 ,,gwalior #acg ,a ,,da% ,,= ,,! ,,d9+-,,c> ,,at ,,agra ,,road #adf ,,delhi ,,driv+4 ,,want$--,a ,,rule ,,( ,,! ,,road #aei ,,%e ,,won',t ,,be ,,happy ,,till ,,%e ,,gets ,,ev]y?+ ,,pack$ ,,up #afb ,,demon ,,hotel ,,t\ts ,,at ,,amritz> ,,fight+ ,,= ,,_! ,,prey #afc ,,?r\gh ,,amritz>--,,sit ,,tight ,,& ,,hold ,a ,,smell+ ,,bottle6 #afe ,,an ,,indian ,,autolycus #afh ,,enjoy+ ,a ,,log ,,fire ,,at ,,lahore #agb 8,,! ,,woman ,,9 ,,:ite0 ,,at ,,lahore 7,,sugge/ion ,,= ,a ,,disguise ,,p>ty7 #age ,,! ,,m]*ants ,,( ,,ka%mir #ahb ,,9 ,,hospital1 ,,luckn[4 ,,! ,,op]at+ ,,table 7,,pati5t ,,_h ,a ,,bit ,,( ,,grit ,,9 ,,h] ,,eye ,,aft] ,a ,,tra9 ,,j\rney7--,,sixte5 ,,rupees ,,7 ,,extract$6 #ahf ,,juggl]s ,,at ,,luckn[--,,! ,,mango ,,tree ,,trick #ahg ,,bett] ,,luck ,,at ,,luckn[--,,?r\gh ,,! ,,*[k ,,on ,,an ,,elephant #aie ,,! ,,mah>ajah ,,places ,,8 ,,c>riage ,,at ,,our ,,disposal #bjb ,,b5>es3 ,,view+ ,,! ,,ghats ,,f ,,! ,,mah>ajah',s ,,peacock ,,boat #bjg ,,we ,,see ,,snakes ,,at ,,b5>es #bji ,,! ,,mah>ajah',s ,,reception1 ,,decorat+ ,,! ,,visitors #bad ,,! ,,soo?say] ,,at ,,calcutta--7,,or ,,palmi/ry ,,"u ,,! ,,palms7 #bbj ,,! ,,d>jeel+ ,,toy-,,railway ,,try+ ,,to ,,cat* ,,its ,,own ,,tail6 #bbe ,,*>act]s ,,9 ,a ,,tibetan ,,masque1 ,,d>jeel+ #bbh ,,! ,,%y ,,peak ,,( ,,k9*9 ,,junga #bcc ,a ,,ride ,,at ,,d>jeel+3 8,,up ,,hill ,,sp>e ,,me0 #bcd ,a ,,hail/one ,,*orus--,,dep>ture ,,f ,,d>jeel+ #bcf ,,calcutta ,,to ,,madras--,,section ,,( ,,sleep]--,,or ,,some?+ ,,l ,,x #bdj ,,ladies ,,or ,,g5tlem58 7,,fa%ions ,,9 ,,s\!rn ,,india7 #bdc ,,madras--,a ,,j9-,,rick%aw ,,made ,,= ,,two #bej ,,tanjore--,,native ,,!atre--,,h\se ,,full4 ,,p]=mance ,,f #i ,p4,m4 ,,till #b ,a4,m4--,,b ,,we ,,didn',t ,,/op ,,to ,,see ,,x ,,?r\gh #bfe ,,tri*9opoly--,,ox ,,tonga--,,vita ,,brevis6 #bga ,,! ,,sacr$ ,,elephants ,,( ,,s]+ham--,,secur+ ,,two-,,anna ,,pieces #bgd ,,! ,,rivals4 ,,our ,,moonsawmy ,,& ,,! ,,madura ,,guide #bgg ,,tuticor94 ,,dep>ture ,,= ,,colombo4 ,,! ,,la/ ,,( ,,! ,,kites ,,& ,,cr[s #bhg ,,l&+ ,,at ,,colombo #bia ,,common ,,objects ,,( ,,colombo4 7,,j9-,,rick%awus ,,bip$es7 #bic ,a ,,c+alese ,,wait] #bid ,,9 ,,ceylon--,,extremes ,,meet--,,! ,,motor ,,& ,,! ,,ox-,,c>t #bif ,,tea ,,plantation1 ,,ceylon #cjc ,,tea ,,& ,,rubb] ,,9 ,,ceylon--,a ,,ris+ ,,indu/ry #cji ,a ,,few ,,trifles ,,! ,,wife ,,wi%$ ,,to ,,br+ ,,home ,,f ,,india #caf ,,li/ ,,( ,,plates ,,! ,,manik>nik ,,ghat1 ,,b5>es ,frontispiece ,,to ,,face ,,page ,,! ,,kylas1 ,,caves ,,( ,,ellora #ch ,,arrival ,,( ,,mr ,,dadabhai ,,naoroji ,,at ,,bombay1 ,,decemb] #ad1 #aijf #df ,,tomb ,,( ,,gunj ,,bak%1 ,,s>khei #eh ,,%r9e ,,( ,,! ,,kwaja1 ,,ajmir #ff ,,! ,,mah>ajah',s ,,palace ,,at ,,udaipur1 ,,f ,,! ,,jagm&ir ,,pavilion #hh ,,! ,,mah>ajah',s ,,/ate ,,elephant1 ,,jaipur #ajb ,,! ,,taj ,,mahal1 ,,f ,,! ,,gateway #aaf ,,9 ,,! ,,baza>1 ,,gwalior #acd ,,approa* ,,to ,,! ,,palace ,,( ,,man ,,m&ir1 ,,gwalior #ach ,,! ,,jama ,,musjid ,,mosque1 ,,delhi #aeb ,,lahore--,,! ,,mosque ,,( ,,waza ,,khan #ahb ,,irrigation ,,well1 ,,luckn[ #aif ,,k9*9 ,,junga ,,f ,,d>jeel+ #bcb ,,tanjore--,,! ,,great ,,gate ,,( ,,! ,,temple #bed ,,sacr$ ,,tank ,,( ,,! ,,great ,,temple1 ,,madura #bhb ,,"u ,,! ,,palms ,,at ,,! ,,galle ,,face1 ,,ceylon #bib ,illu/ration3 ,,r\gh-,,sket* ,,skeleton-,,map ,,( ,,india ,,to ,,%[ ,,our ,,railway ,,r\te ,,position ,,( ,,! ,,places ,,visit$ ,,india ,,impressions ,,*apt] ,i ,,! ,,voyage ,a visit to ,india & ! ,ea/ _h long be5 a *]i%$ b some:at vague dream ) u4 ,x seem$ a f> cry1 & to make a break ( a few mon?s 9 ! mid/ ( ! occupations ( a busy life is always a difficult matt]4 ,! impossible1 h[ev]1 became 9 c\rse ( "t possible1 & ev5 practicable4 ,inquiries z to ways & means _h ! effect ( cle>+ our pa?2 & hav+ ! w1 ! way 0 soon discov]$4 8,only sixte5 days to ,bombay60 our ,indian fri5ds 9 ,london told u1 & !y 7 always urg+ u to g & see _! wond]ful c\ntry = ourselves4 ,mr ,rome% ,dutt & ,dr ,muli* _h be5 visitors at our h\se4 ,! =m] _h pres5t$ 8 int]e/+ translation ( ! 8,ramayana10 illu/rat$ by ,miss ,h>dy1 to my wife4 ,besides ^! we _h f "t to "t made ! acqua9tance ( sev]al native g5tlem5 9 ,london :o 7 read+ = ! ,indian ,b>4 ,!y came & w5t1 b all 7 e>ne/ 9 _! hope t we %\ld visit ,india1 & ,i ?9k t !y _h discov]$ our sympa?ies 7 ) ^? ( _! c\ntrym5 9 _! aspirations to p>ticipate 9 ! adm9i/ration ( ! affairs ( _! own c\ntry4 ,! decisive /ep ( book+ our passage 0 at la/ tak5 9 ! summ] ( #aijf1 & ! #ai? day ( ,novemb] foll[+ saw u en r\te = ,m>seilles1 :]e we committ$ ourselves to ! c>e ( ! ,messag]ies ,m>itime1 & emb>k$ on ! ,s4,s4 8,la ,n]a0 9 due c\rse1 putt+ to sea on ,w$nesday1 ! #ba/ ,novemb]4 ,x 0 a lovely bright aft]noon z we left ! port1 ! s\!rn sun%9e flood+ ev]y?+ 9 gold5 light4 ,x is a wond]ful mom5t :5 ! %ip ca/s (f4 ,! great l9]1 :i* _h seem$ a "p ( ! l& itself :ile ! /ream ( pass5g]s pass$ up ! gangways1 & _! baggage aft] !m1 beg9s to ?rob ) life & movem5t--to tremble1 z x 71 ) expectation ( dep>ture4 ,z a swimm] ab\t to take ! wat] ca/s (f all imp$im5ta1 s ! %ip ca/s (f h] cables & all t l9ks h] to ! %ore1 & glides (f into ! great blue deep1 brea/+ ! waves ( ! va/ op5 sea4 ,incr$ibly fa/ z ! eng9es beat ! solid l& fades away4 ,! domes & t[]s & *imneys silh\ett$ aga9/ ! bright sky1 ! p on ! quays1 ! %ips rid+ at an*or1 ! toss+ h>b\r buoys1 ! small sail+ craft flitt+ ab\t1 all are roll$ by z on ! canvas ( a mov+ diorama1 z ! /eam] cle>s ! port1 & all detail becomes m]g$ & lo/ "u ! bold ma9 outl9es ( ! rocky coa/1 or ! dim %apes ( ! di/ant m\nta9s4 ,z ! long %9+ wake increases a/]n & ! coa/ rec$es1 ^? nautical camp-foll[]s ! gulls1 :i* h pursu$ ! %ip f ! h>b\r1 beg9 to dim9i% _! numb]s1 ?\gh !y w+ a long way out to sea1 attract$ by ! crumbs :i* occasionally fall f ! region ( ! cook's galley4 ,illu/ration3 ,,london ,,to ,,port ,,said1 ,a ,,hi]oglyphic ,,( ,,our ,,voyage ,a glori\s sunset inaugurat$ our fir/ night at sea--( ! ord] ( ! ,gold5 ,fleece1 z x might be call$--a di/9ct type1 :5 9 a w9dless sky a l>ge field ( delicate fleecy cirrus cl\d spreads 9 a level field f we/ to ea/1 & z ! sun s9ks its "u edges are light$ up by gold5 light1 *ang+ to orange1 sc>let1 & crimson1 :5 he disappe>s b5ea? ! horizon4 ,s our voyage began propiti\sly1 & ) a smoo? sea4 ,e>ly ! next morn+ we pass$ ?r\gh ! ,/raits ( ,bonifazio1 betwe5 ,corsica & ,s>d9ia1 ! coa/s ( :i* we _h a glimpse ( ?r\gh our port-hole1 & on ! morn+ ( ! ?ird day1 aft] a little toss+1 we sight$ ,sicily1 pass+ ,scylla & ,*>ybdis at ! entrance ( ! /raits1 & close to ,mess9a4 ,etna soon came into view1 its summit cov]$ ) a cr[n ( sn[ 7z we _h se5 x on our visit to ,taorm9a 9 #aijd74 ,! ,calabrian coa/1 too1 0 v int]e/+1 ! m\nta9s ( /rik+ =m1 & ! l9es v v>i$ all along to ,cape ,sp>tiv5to--! toe ( ! boot-%ap$ cont95t ( ,italy4 ,we c\ld see ! little :ite t[ns along ! coa/ & among ! hills1 & ! mona/]ies p]*$ high ^u crags4 ,etna gradually fad$ away1 l a vision1 beyond ! d>k blue edge ( ! sea1 & almo/ imm$iately aft] pass+ ! cape we enc\nt]$ a /rong ea/]ly w9d f ! ,adriatic1 :i* met ! ,m$it]ranean "h4 ,at sunset !re 7 huge banks ( grey cl\ds ( fanta/ic %apes ris+ l high wood$ isl&s1 b we _h moonlight on ! wat]s e night4 ,^? grey banks ( cl\d1 h[ev]1 7 om9\s1 & by ,novemb] ! #bd? ! wea!r grew s r\gh t ! 8fiddle-/r+s0 became necess>y on ! tables 9 ! d9+-saloon1 :]e ! att5dance1 too1 grew di/9ctly ?9n]4 ,t[>ds ev5+ we sight$ ! cliffs ( ,crete 7,c&ia71 ! fissur$1 m\nta9\s1 & dang]\s-look+ coa/ pla9ly visible 9 ! sunlight1 ?\gh a bank ( cl\d cov]$ ! summits ( ! isl&4 ,aft] mu* toss+ & roll+ ?r\gh ano!r day & night ! lights ( ,port ,said 7 sight$ ab\t f\r o'clock on ! morn+ ( ,novemb] #bf4 ,!re 0 a p[]ful se>*-light f ! ligh?\se4 ,we got into h>b\r ab\t #e4cj1 & ! coal+ began4 ,x 0 a weird sc5e4 ,six black light]s 7 haul$ alongside our /eam]1 ?ree on ! port b[ & ?ree on ! />bo>d1 & boats cr[d$ to ! wat]'s edge ) coolies 9 long ragg$ g>m5ts & turbans1 mo/ly ( a dusky r$ & blue1 ! col\rs %9+ ?r\gh ! coal du/ :i* d>k5$ _! naturally sw>?y visages & =ms4 ,z ^! cr[d$ boats approa*$ ) _! weird pass5g]s1 "o _h an irresi/ible sugge/ion ( ,*>on f]ry+ lo/ s\ls across ! ,/yx--!re 0 g5]ally only "o pair ( o>s1 z ! di/ance to ! /eam] f ! :>f 0 v %ort4 ,well1 ^! 7 our coal-slaves1 ^u ^: *eap lab\r ! spe$ ( our /eam]s dep5ds q z mu* z on _! own eng9es1 "o felt4 ,f ! boats !y scrambl$ into ! light]s--"s %ovell$ up ! coal into h& baskets ( matt+ :i* o!rs lift$ on to _! %\ld]s & c>ri$ across a n>r[ plank into ! %ip1 =m+ a weird l9e ( black figures silh\ett$ aga9/ ! %9+ wat]4 ,! coolies work$ h>d & fa/ 9 a black mi/ ( coal du/ & kept up a cont9ual hubbub ( cries 9 ,arabic & o!r /range tongues :i* add$ to ! weirdness ( ! sc5e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,coal+ ,,at ,,port ,,said--,,& ,,aft]6 ,port ,said look$ v new & flimsy1 & 0 hopelessly vulg>is$ by flam+ po/]s & adv]tisem5ts ( ,we/]n orig9 bo? 9 ,fr5* & ,engli%4 ,boats sw>m$ r\nd ! %ip's side1 & sw>?y eag]-ey$ hotel t\ts came abo>d 9 ,fez caps1 z well z a motley cr[d ( trad]s1 ,egyptian conjur]s1 & ,european musicians :o play$ ! late/ popul> waltzes4 ,we 7 glad to escape ! coal du/ & g a%ore1 :]e an intellig5t b probably n too scrupul\s ,egyptian guide und]took to %[ u ev]y?+1 & we w5t ) him r\nd ! t[n1 pass+ ?r\gh ! m>ket cr[d$ ) ! picturesque life ( ! ,ea/1 :i* inde$ %[$ itself ev]y:]e ?r\gh ! ?9 v5e] ( mod]n ,european comm]cialism4 ,a v5]able-look+ prophet swept ! /reets1 &1 ( c\rse1 !re 7 pl5ty ( /reet arabs ready to turn 8c>t-:eels0 or any?+ t w\ld turn a m or less hone/ p5ny 9 _! direction1 & ! cry ( 8,back%ee%0 0 rais$ on ! slighte/ provocation4 ,our guide took u into a small ,mohamm$an mosque1 mod]n1 b1 ( c\rse1 /rictly accord+ to ! traditional plan & ori5t$ t[>ds ,mecca4 ,we _h to put on loose canvas %oes ov] our own %oes to ent] ! sacr$ prec9cts1 & our guide gave u a long exposition ( ! necess>y ablutions to be p]=m$ by ! fai?ful be=e & aft] pray]s1 & %[$ u ! wat] tank fitt$ ) taps1 at "o ( :i* a devotee 0 busy hav+ 8 wa%4 ,illu/ration3 ,,spoil+ ,,! ,,egyptians8 ,,or ,,be+ ,,despoil$ ,,by ,,!m6 ,illu/ration3 ,,s5sation ,,9 ,,sol> ,,topis ,! baza> bri/l$ ) ,european goods1 & topis & cig>ettes 7 mu* 9 evid5ce1 ?\gh !re 7 "s *>m+ ,egyptian fabrics 9 ! =m ( sc>ves brocad$ ) patt]ns 9 gold or silv] ?read or black on :ite f9e l954 ,on ! :itewa%$ walls ( "s ( ! h\ses ,i notic$ "s primitive pa9t+s 9 di/emp]1 app>5tly repres5t+ camels1 travell]s1 & palm-trees1 done 9 pr(ile4 ,!y 7 c>ri$ horizontally across ! front ( ! h\ses z a sort ( frieze1 & 7 curi\sly sugge/ive 9 a *ildlike way ( a survival ( ! anci5t ,egyptian me?od ( decorat+4 ,our guide said t !y indicat$ t ! dwell] 9 ! h\se _h visit$ ,mecca4 ,return+ to 8,la ,n]a0 we f\nd h] inde$ black] ?an %e 0 pa9t$1 z ev]y?+ on bo>d 0 cov]$ ) a f9e coal du/1 :i* ! en]gy ( ! crew ) copi\s hose-pipes ev5tually got rid (4 ,! h>b\r ( ,port ,said is always busy1 _m l9]s & transports com+ & go+1 w> vessels ( v>i\s nationalities ly+ at an*or1 boats ply+ to & fro1 & "y1 li!1 br[n-sk9n$ natives on ! quays1 ready to dive = silv] pieces1 cr\*+ %iv]+ on ! edge ( ! :>f1 or 9 a boat1 & cry+ 9 an almo/ cont9u\s monotone1 8 la m]10 8 la m]10 8 la m]10 until ! hop$-= small co9 is ?r[n into ! wat]1 :5 !y adroitly dive & int]cept x z x falls turn+ & glitt]+ 9 ! wat]1 & reappe> ) x 9 _! m\?s1 :i* soon op5 = m4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,suez ,,canal ,we />t$ aga9 at #ab4cj = ,suez1 ent]+ ! canal4 ,our /eam] 0 /opp$ at ! fir/ village to all[ two /eam]s to pass--! 8,clan ,campbell0 ( ,glasg[ & ! 8,h]e=d%ire0 ( ,liv]pool4 ,! wea!r 0 q cool & cl\dy & x turn$ out a %[]y aft]noon4 ,flocks ( pelicans 7 se5 on ! wat]s ( ! wide %all[ lakes we pass$4 ,!re 0 a /ormy sunset1 & !re 0 lightn+ aft] nightfall1 b lat] ! moon %one brightly1 fall+ on ! wan s& ( ! banks1 :i* _h q ! effect ( sn[ "u its cle> cold light4 ,! /eam] mov$ sl[ly ?r\gh ! canal at ab\t ! rate ( five knots4 ,a pass5g] 0 l&$ at ,ismailia1 aft] :i* we ent]$ ! bitt] lakes1 & next morn+ we 7 )9 fifte5 miles f ,suez1 b our /eam] _h to /op ow+ to a transport %ip hav+ got agr\nd ahead ( u4 ,a ,g]man /eam] 0 close beh9d u1 & :ile wait+ _m ( ! pass5g]s l&$ & roam$ ab\t on ! des]t s&4 ,x 0 n long1 h[ev]1 be=e ! transport 0 got (f1 & %e pres5tly pass$ u1 a huge :ite /eam] nam$ ! 8,r5a10 cr[d$ ) ,engli% 8,tommies0 homew>d b\nd4 ,! passage ( ! ,suez ,canal is v int]e/+ & comes z a welcome relief aft] toss+ on ! op5 sea out ( sight ( l&4 ,! long level l9es ( ! s&y des]t h a reposeful effect1 b f9e ranges ( m\nta9s are (t5 se5 beyond1 & ! des]t is frequ5tly v>i$ ) ! 8/rip ( h]bage /r[n0 embroid]$ ) palm-trees1 & ^! elem5ts ( ,egyptian l&scape /eep$ 9 ! transluc5t atmosph]e are reliev$ by /rik+ bronze-col\r$ figures 9 blue robes & sw>?y ,arabs 9 :ite 9 ! =egr\nd on ! s&-banks1 or an occasional /r+ ( camels4 ,we rea*$ ,suez ab\t midday & an*or$ (f ! t[n4 ,! ,consul's tug paid u a visit1 & our vessel 0 soon surr\nd$ by a small fleet ( picturesque craft ) late5 sails1 & gunwales pa9t$ ) eyes1 & 9 ! semblance ( qua9t fi% 9 b&s ( gre5 & :ite1 mann$ by sw>?y ,arabs & ,egyptians4 ,^! br\ght c>go & provisions to be hoi/$ on bo>d1 & ! process took an h\r or two1 b 9 ! aft]noon we /eam$ away aga9 & ent]$ ! ,r$ ,sea4 ,! wea!r grew p]ceptibly w>m]1 b 0 /ill n oppressive1 & !re 0 a cool breeze 9 ! ev5+4 ,!re 0 a beautiful roseate light at aft]gl[ on ! ea/]n %ore1 :]e ,m\nt ,s9ai 0 po9t$ out1 & ! well ( ,moses1 & ! traditional place ( ! ,israelites' passage ( ! ,r$ ,sea4 ,! sun set 9 gold & purple beh9d a bold range ( craggy m\nta9s on our />bo>d side1 & a spl5did moonlight night succe$$1 ! moon ne>ly at full4 ,on ! morn+ ( ! #bh? ,novemb] we pass$ 8,! ,bro!rs0 light%ips to />bo>d1 & ! next day we 7 out ( sight ( l&1 ) a pleasant breeze "u ! d\ble awn+s ( ! upp] deck1 enjoy+ ! be/ summ] wea!r1 :i* we %\ld ?9k ourselves lucky to h 9 ,engl&4 ,! ,r$ ,sea 0 really z blue z ! ,m$it]ranean1 ?\gh ( c\rse subject to *anges accord+ to ! sky1 :i* turn$ to a wond]ful cle> gre5i% gold aft] sunset1 p[d]$ ) small d>k cl\ds :i* float$ across x2 a violet flu% above ! gold bl5d+ x into ! deep blue ( ! upp] sky1 ! small float+ cl\ds aga9/ x %[+ a%y grey1 :ile aga9/ ! gold ( ! aft]gl[ !y look$ ne>ly black1 ! sea be+ ( a r cold metallic blue4 ,! s]5e wea!r & ! spl5d\r ( ! moonlit nights cont9u$1 b ! temp]ature rose consid]ably1 rea*+ #hh ,fahr4 9 our cab91 :i* 0 on ! />bo>d side ( ! %ip4 ,x is z well to rememb] t port side cab9s are cool] = ! outw>d voyage1 & ^? on ! />bo>d side = ! homew>d voyage1 z go+ ea/w>ds ! heat ( ! sun falls on ! />bo>d side necess>ily = ! great] "p ( ! day1 :ile go+ we/w>ds ( c\rse ! rev]se is ! case4 ,?is applies m p>ticul>ly to ! ,r$ ,sea4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,passage ,,( ,,! ,,r$ ,,sea 7,!rm3 #hh or s67 ,on ,novemb] #cj? we pass$ ! isl& ( ,jubbelte]1 on :i* 0 a ligh?\se1 & lat]1 8,! ,twelve ,apo/les10 a s]ies ( rocky volcanic-look+ isl&s ( bold & angul> outl9e1 & app>5tly b>r54 ,sea-birds1 h[ev]1 7 se5 ) black & :ite bodies & br[n w+s fly+ close to ! wat]4 ,on ,decemb] ! #a/ we pass$ ,mo*a1 ( c(fee celebrity1 & ! isl& ( ,p]rim1 :]e !re are ligh?\ses & signal /ations1 b1 l ! o!r isl&s we _h se51 o!rwise desolate 9 ! extreme4 ,lat] ! ,arabian coa/ came into view & ! sea 0 dott$ ) ! sails ( ,arab dh[s4 ,! coa/ z we approa*$ ,ad5 %[$ volcanic-look+ m\nta9s1 /rik+ 9 =m & bold 9 outl9e1 ) /ret*es ( s& & rock betwe54 ,ad5 0 rea*$ ab\t #b ,p4,m41 a s*ool ( dolph9s play+ ab\t ! %ip z if to welcome our arrival4 ,ad5 look$ a que] un9vit+ place1 bak$ dry by ! sun--a clu/] ( tempor>y & b>rack-l build+s huddl$ toge!r anyh[ along ! rocky coa/1 ) nev] a tree to be se52 ! ragg$1 precipit\s1 b>r5 edges ( ext9ct volcanoes =m+ a backgr\nd to ! r$-ro($ b>racks & bungal[s4 ,sev]al l>ge :ite w>%ips lay at an*or 9 ! h>b\r1 & l5t a t\* ( gay col\r by be+ deck$ ) /r+s ( bunt+ f /em to /]n 9 hon\r ( our ,que5 ,alex&ra's bir?day4 ,a ,g]man l9] got 9 j be=e u & we saw ! coal light]s be+ r[$ up to h]4 8,la ,n]a0 coal$ "h also1 b x 0 a less grimy proce$+ ?an at ,port ,said1 z ! coal 0 9 sacks4 ,! type ( coolies1 too1 0 v diff]5t1 & !re 7 _m ,african negroes 7,s\malis7 among !m1 ^: sk9s c\ld h>dly be made black] ?an !y 7 by nature4 ,9 addition to its clu/] ( coal+ light]s1 our vessel1 n[ at an*or1 0 soon surr\nd$ by boats fill$ ) natives :o sw>m$ r\nd ! gangways1 & soon invad$ ! %ip--a cr[d ( ,s\mali trad]s (f]+ o/ri* fea!rs & fea!r fans 7( a ,european look71 o/ri* eggs1 wick] bottle-%ap$ baskets1 %ell necklaces1 & amb] beads1 :o drove _! trade among/ ! pass5g]s on deck1 :il/ o!rs endeav\r$ to cat* _! eyes f ! boats4 ,?91 li! "y natives ) fuzzy hair 7 v num]\s1 & "s _h dy$ _! hair r$1 :i* _h a grotesque effect ) ! black sk94 ,i not$ a /range contra/ 9 ! same boat1 too1 :i* conta9$ two natives1 "o ( :om wore a sort ( l>ge-*eck$ suit ( pyjamas ) 8 mop ( r$-dy$ hair1 :ile 8 companion _h 8 head clean %av$ ) 8nod+s on06 ,"s natives seem$ to h us$ face p[d]--at any rate _h sme>$ "s k9d ( :it5+ ov] _! c\nt5ances ) gha/ly effect4 ,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,! ,,same ,,boat--,a ,,contra/ ,,at ,,ad5 ,! sc5e 0 a /range "o altoge!r4 ,! cr[d ( ,europeans on deck1 9 :i* ne>ly e nationality 0 repres5t$1 mo/ly clad 9 topis & :ite g>m5ts1 ! black trad]s mov+ ab\t !m2 ! sw>m ( boats at ! sides ( ! vessel full ( bright spots ( col\r--sc>let turbans1 :ite1 orange1 yell[1 & purple 9 ! co/umes--sway+ on ! turquoise-col\r$ sea2 br[n-back$ gulls flapp+ ov] ! wat] & kites hov]+ ov] ! h>b\r2 & all /eep$ 9 ! bright sun%9e ( ! ,ea/4 ,_m ( ! pass5g]s w5t a%ore 9 ! native boats1 b ! sc5e seem$ m amus+ f ! %ip & we rema9$ on deck4 ,ad5 itself look$ m int]e/+ at night1 ) bright lights "h & !re on ! %ore & on ! %ips1 & ! ris+ moon translat$ ev]y?+ into t]ms ( my/]y & romance4 ,i wat*$ an ,arab dh[ set sail4 ,x is "o ( ! mo/ beautiful ( sail+ vessels1 & has a high old-fa%ion$ poop--! l9e ( ! gunwale mak+ a f9e curve f /em to /]n--a ma9ma/ ) a big late5 sail1 two jibs on a %ort b[sprit1 & a second>y small] ma/ a/]n4 ,! sun set beh9d ! ,arabian coa/1 ! jagg$ peaks ( :i* we _h previ\sly pass$4 ,! coal+ did n f9i% till nightfall4 ,! coolies seem$ to und]take all ! me*anical arrangem5ts = ! "w1 fix+ ! haul+ ge> & ! necess>y ropes & planks1 & (t5 9 ! process seem+ to hang on to ! %ip ) little m ?an _! eyelids4 ,:5 !y pull$ a rope toge!r ! cry to keep "t s\nd$ l 8,leesah60 or 8,lee%ah60 ) emphasis on ! fir/ syllable4 ,! coal+ f9i%$1 & ! curi\s sw>m ( native life t _h surr\nd$ u dep>t$1 8,la ,n]a0 weigh$ an*or & pursu$ h] c\rse ea/w>ds1 skirt+ ! rocky coa/ ba!d 9 ! moonlight z %e made = ! op5 ,arabian ,sea4 ,! next day 9 ! e>ly morn+ we _h sight ( "s fly+-fi%4 ,!y h almo/ ! appe>ance ( swall[s at a di/ance1 especially :5 se5 aga9/ ! light1 b1 glanc+1 z !y leap out ( ! wat]1 to disappe> into x aga9 v quickly1 !y fla% 9 ! sun l silv]4 ,! ,arabian coa/ 0 /ill fa9tly visible t[>ds ! nor?1 b gradually fad$ f view4 ,! pleasant light breeze cont9u$ & x 0 n ne>ly s hot z 9 ! ,r$ ,sea1 9 fact q pleasant ei!r on deck or bel[--especially ) a 8w9dle0 fix$ to ! cab9 port4 ,we _h made an int]e/+ acqua9tance on bo>d1 a ,fr5* g5tleman :o knew ,india well & :o 0 on 8 way to revisit t c\ntry1 int5d+ to jo9 an ,engli% fri5d !re on a %oot+ exp$ition4 ,he 0 an old sportsman & _h %ot big game 9 ,tibet4 ,he unit$ ! ke5ness & exp]i5ce ( a sportsman ) lit]>y ta/es & a love ( hi/ory & ar*ology4 ,?is g5tleman introduc$ u to 8! gre5 ray10 a ph5om5on peculi> to ! ,ea/]n seas1 ,i believe4 ,j at ! mom5t :5 ! sun disappe>s b5ea? ! horizon !re is ! appe>ance ( a vivid gre5 sp>k fla%+ l a gem :i* seems to deta* itself f ! gl[+ orb & fly upw>d1 in/antly disappe>+ 9 ! r$d5+ haze4 ,we witness$ ?is on sev]al occasions1 b 9 ord] to see x a cle> sunset is absolutely necess>y--t is to say t "o mu/ be able to see ! sun s9k bel[ ! horizon cle> ( cl\d4 ,! lovely moonlight nights cont9u$1 ! moon be+ n[ ahead1 & ! app>5t goal ( ! vessel's c\rse4 ,"o night1 h[ev]1 0 di/urb$ by ! /eam] /opp+ 9 mid-ocean4 ,"o gets s accu/om$ to ! ?rob ( ! eng9es on bo>d a /eam] t its sudd5 cessation is q />tl+4 ,pass5g]s clu/]$ ne> ! eng9e-room to le>n ! cause1 :i* turn$ out to be some?+ wrong ) 8a wa%]0 :i* affect$ ! movem5t ( ! %aft4 ,aft] ab\t ?ree h\rs ?is 0 repair$ & ! 8,n]a0 cont9u$ h] c\rse4 ,%e g5]ally made ab\t #cjj miles 9 ! tw5ty-f\r h\rs4 ,incid5ts 9 ! ,indian ,ocean 7 few & f> betwe54 ,fly+-fi% 7 to be se51 b only 9 ! e>ly morn+ z a rule2 a :ale 0 notic$ sp\t+1 & two %>ks 7 sight$4 ,i saw1 too1 a l>ge turtle turn ov] close to ! %ip's side1 b su* sights v occasionally v>i$ ! wide seascape1 & _m 7 glad to turn to deck games or bridge = div]sion1 if !y c\ld n f9d x 9 books1 or 9 obs]v+ _! fell[ pass5g]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,"s ,,types ,,among ,,our ,,fell[ ,,pass5g]s ,c]ta9ly among/ ^! latt] !re 0 no want ( int]e/ or v>iety2 !y 7 q an int]national gr\p1 & includ$ ,engli% & ,anglo-,indians return+ aft] leave ( abs5ce 9 ,europe to take up _! (ficial duties1 civil or milit>y1 on new appo9tm5ts ) _! wives & families2 a l>ge proportion ( ,fr5* 7x be+ a ,fr5* /eam]72 !n !re 7 ,portuguese & ,dut* 7go+ out to ,au/ralia71 ,g]mans & ,canadians1 ,arm5ians f ,rangoon1 & ,indians f ,bombay2 sev]al ,arm5ian prie/s also1 probably mission>ies2 !re 7 negroes & ,arabs 9 ! fo'ca/le1 & among ! second-class pass5g]s a *>act]i/ic gr\p ( ,engli% workm5--=em5 eng9e]s & navvies4 ,!y 7 b\nd = ,bombay1 hav+ be5 engag$ to direct coolie lab\r on new & ext5sive docks at t port1 _! contract be+ = ?ree ye>s1 & _! passage paid4 ,i ?9k !y got v tir$ ( do+ no?+ & did n feel q happy ) ! ,fr5* d9n]s1 al?\gh ! heavie/ man ( ! p>ty made x a rule to dev\r ev]y?+ t 0 set be=e him1 tak+ ,sa9t ,paul's advice1 & 8ask+ no que/ions40 ,i ?9k all ! ages ( man--& woman--7 repres5t$ on bo>d1 includ+ m ?an "o infant 8mewl+ & pul+ 9 its nurse's arms40 ,a little sample ( ! big _w *ipp$ (f & s5t adrift on ! ocean--a %ip ( life1 n )\t its enigmas1 its little ironies & unc]ta9ties1 toss$ ^u ! v type ( unc]ta9ty--! sea4 ,a %ip1 h[ev]1 is a ca/le ( indol5ce z f> z ! pass5g]s are conc]n$1 ?\gh ! crew1 ,i suspect1 w\ld tell a v diff]5t /ory1 z1 ap>t f ! sev]e "w ( ! eng9e]s & /ok]s1 _! "w nev] seems at an end1 & x is only by con/ant wa%+1 scrubb+1 & sweep+ t a /eam] c be kept dec5tly clean & habitable4 ,to break ! monotony ( ! five days' voyage on ! ,indian ,ocean a conc]t 0 got up by an en]getic "y lady & h] fri5ds4 ,!y w5t r\nd ! %ip to discov] :at hidd5 musical or hi/rionic tal5t might be conceal$ "u ! m or less disguis$ p]sonalities ( ! pass5g]s1 & !y succe$$ 9 draw+ out en\gh = an ev5+'s ent]ta9m5t on ! saloon deck1 :i* 0 picturesquely drap$ ) bunt+ = ! occasion1 & a piano 0 :eel$ into position4 ,v>i\s songs 7 giv51 & a ,fr5* pr9cess1 :o 0 among ! pass5g]s1 recit$4 ,! "y lady :o _h be5 ! lead+ _s 9 organis+ ! conc]t h]self gave "s *>m+ songs :i* %e accompani$ on a guit>1 & a pretty song 9 ,japanese co/ume & umbrella f 8,! ,gei%a10 ,i ?9k1 ) mu* _s4 ,! proce$s w5t to ! b5efit ( ! orphans ( ! ,messag]ies ,m>itimes sailors4 ,aft] ?is viol5t excitem5t ! days pass$ z days d at sea1 ! f9e wea!r cont9u+ ) delightful monotony4 ,! fre% ea/]ly breeze 0 /rong en\gh to fleck ! blue pla9 ) 8:ite horses10 yet n cause any try+ movem5t ( ! vessel1 :i* pl\gh$ /eadily ?r\gh ! waves1 driv+ ! spray f its b[s1 & caus+ danc+ ra9b[s on ! foamy cre/s z !y reb\nd$ f ! %ip's side4 ,! sun ris+ 9 cle> glory f ! sea1 disappe>$ ea* ev5+ 9 tranquil spl5d\r1 %[+ ! gre5 ray1 & ! deep r$ along ! horizon 9 ! we/ aft]w>ds1 ov] ! d>k blue sea4 ,! d>k blue above & ! illum9at$ sky betwe51 recall$ ! fav\rite effect 9 ,japanese pr9ts by ,hiro%igi1 & at ! same "t te/ifi$ to its tru?4 ,b all ?+s h an end1 ev5 ocean voyages1 & ab\t f\r o'clock on ! morn+ ( ,friday1 ,decemb] ! #g?1 our /eam] sl[$ d[n & took on bo>d ! pilot1 & we1 cauti\sly /e]+ pa/ my/]i\s isl&s "u ! dawn1 f9ally ca/ an*or 9 ,bombay h>b\r4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,bombay ,,& ,,! ,,caves ,,( ,,ellora ,! fir/ impression ( ,bombay f ! sea is p]haps a little disappo9t+ f ! pictorial po9t ( view4 ,! t[n spreads along ! l[ flat coa/1 l9$ ) long quays )\t any great domes or conspicu\s noble build+s4 ,"o is aw>e ( :>ves & factory *imneys1 & ev5 ! palms & g>d5s ( ,malab> ,hill1 & blue m\nta9s inl& d n altoge!r mitigate ! comm]cial & indu/rial aspects ( ! place2 b ! light & col\r ( ! ,ea/ fuse all sorts ( incongruities1 & ! feel+ ( t\*+ a /range l& & ( sett+ foot = ! fir/ "t 9 ,india is suffici5tly excit+ to ?r[ a sort ( glam\r ov] ev]y?+4 ,! /eam]s _c disemb>k _! pass5g]s at ! quays1 s !y h to be l&$ 9 boats :i* clu/] ab\t ! sides ( ! big l9]4 ,! (ficial tug comes alongside fir/1 & ! (ficial visit is paid4 ,we 7 due ! ev5+ be=e1 & inquiries z to ! :y & :]e=e ( ! delay _h to be satisfi$4 ,busy ag5ts & eag] hotel t\ts come on bo>d1 & all is bu/le & prep>ation = l&+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,l&+ ,,at ,,bombay ,our ,indian fri5d _h be5 unexpect$ly call$ away & 0 unable to meet u1 b he committ$ u to ! c>e ( o!r fri5ds at ,bombay4 ,we l&$1 h[ev]1 ) our fri5d ! ,fr5* explor]1 ) all our baggage1 9 a native boat1 & by d9t ( a ragg$ late5 sail & o>s pli$ by a sw>?y1 wild-look+ crew1 soon rea*$ ! quay1 :]e a cr[d ( coolies wait$ to spr+ ^u our belong+s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,await+ ,,! ,,cu/oms--,,bombay ,our ,fr5* fri5d spoke ,h9du/anee flu5tly1 =tunately = u2 & amid ! clam\r ( tongues :i* surr\nd$ u1 0 able to arrange = an ox-c>t to take our unit$ baggage to ! ,cu/om-,h\se1 :]e1 aft] an int]view ) "s languid ,engli% (ficials clad 9 :ite drill & topis1 hav+ no?+ contrab&1 we 7 duly pass$1 ?\gh our fri5d1 possess+ fire>ms1 0 delay$ long]1 & ( c\rse _h to pay4 ,! ,bombay ox-c>ts are two-:eel$ ) high sides ( timb]1 =m+ a squ>e op5 lattice1 & drawn by a pair ( ox54 ,committ+ our worldly goods to ?is delightful prehi/oric vehicle1 we took a c>riage--a little1 "o-horse1 op5 victoria1 :i* is ! /reet cab ( ,bombay1 & simil> to ^? 9 use 9 ! t[ns ( ,italy--& drove to ! ,taj ,mahal ,hotel1 a va/1 new1 mod]n c>avans]ai--:i*1 h[ev]1 0 q full1 s we w5t on to ! old-e/abli%$ 8,watson's0 on ! ,esplanade1 :]e we got a good room ) a balcony & a view4 ,!re 0 also a pleasant cov]$ t]race1 or v]&ah1 ext5d+ ! :ole l5g? ( ! build+1 :i* on ! nor? side1 always 9 %ade1 fac$ a g>d5 gre5 ) well-wat]$ lawns & ?ickly plant$ ) umbrage\s mango & banyan trees1 amid :i* ! ubiquit\s cr[s ( ,india 7resembl+ our hood$ cr[7 kept up a cont9ual caw+ *orus z !y flitt$ ab\t1 n[ swoop+ d[n on "s ill-consid]$ trifle 9 ! /reet1 or p]*+ expectantly ab\t ! hotel prec9cts1 on ! look\t = scatt]$ crumbs4 ,great br[n kites hov]$ 9 ! air1 =m+ a second l9e ( wat*ful b sil5t scav5g]s4 ,! t]race also comm&$ a view ( ! /reet ) all its v>i$ types 9 co/ume1 race1 & col\r & "*4 ,! prosp]\s1 sleek ,p>see m]*ant 9 8 curi\s %9y1 slop+ high hat1 long black alpaca or :ite tunic1 & loose :ite ne!r g>m5ts & umbrella2 ,europeans 9 :ite drill & grey or :ite pi? helmets1 :i* gave a sup]ficial family lik5ess to all :o wore !m2 native s]vants1 ,h9du1 ,portuguese1 & half-ca/e1 9 e v>iety ( turban & co/ume1 sitt+ or /&+ ab\t 9 gr\ps1 wait+ to be hir$2 w&]+ m9/rels1 danc+ wom51 & juggl]s & tumbl]s try+ to cat* ! eye--& ! small *ange--( ! travell]2 m5 ) tom-toms & p]=m+ monkeys1 wat]-c>ri]s ) _! dripp+ goat-sk9 slung at _! side1 coolies & coolie wom5 con/antly pass+ to & fro f ! quays1 be>+ _! burd5s on _! heads2 ! be>] & ! ayah 9 *>ge ( fair$-hair$ ,engli% *ildr51 pass+ 9 & out ( ! g>d5s2 ! ,briti% soldi] 9 khaki1 & ! native policeman 9 blue ) a flat yell[ cap4 ,^! & su* z ^! 7 ! prevail+ types 9 ! sc5e f ! hotel balcony1 f :5ce1 also1 we c\ld see ! tram-c>s1 drawn by horses 9 big :ite topis1 trail+ up & d[n ! ,esplanade1 :ile motors fla%$ by1 & sm>t ,european ladies drove 9 _! dog-c>ts4 ,beyond ! trees ( ! g>d5 rose a mod]n clock t[] :i* told ! burn+ h\rs 9 ! famili> ,we/m9/] *imes4 ,illu/ration3 ,,/reet ,,p]=m]s--,,bombay ,! mod]n ,briti% build+s ( ,bombay w\ld probably 9 newspap] language be describ$ z 8h&some40 ,!re 7 _m %[y & pret5ti\s /ructures 9 a sort ( ,italian ,go?ic /yle1 b !y look$ import$1 & 7 decid$ly out ( place 9 a c\ntry :i* possesses su* magnific5t specim5s ( ar*itecture ( its own gr[?--z "o might say4 ,! _m balconi$ & %utt]$ fronts1 ) project+ /ories1 ! ridge-til$ ro(s & pla/]$ walls t we saw 9 ! old] qu>t]s ( ! t[n seem$1 z types ( dwell+-h\ses at lea/1 mu* m suitable & *>act]i/ic1 & su* types w\ld surely be capable ( adaptation to mod]n requirem5ts4 ,! ,craw=d ,m>ket is "o ( ! sights ( ,bombay4 ,outside1 ) its /eep ro(s1 belfry1 & project+ eaves x has a r ,engli% ,go?ic look1 b inside ! sc5e is entirely ori5tal1 cr[d$ ) natives 9 all sorts ( col\rs1 mov+ among fi%1 fruit1 gra91 & provisions ( all k9ds1 buy+ & sell+ amid a clam\r ( tongues--a busy sc5e ( col\r & v>iety1 9 a symphony ( smells1 dom9at$ by t ( ! smoke ( joss-/icks kept burn+ at "s ( ! /alls z well z a suspicion ( opium1 :i* p]vades all ! native qu>t]s 9 ,indian cities4 ,!re is a sort ( c\rt or g>d5 enclos$ by ! build+s1 & "h ! live /ock is kept--all sorts ( birds & animals4 ,a drive ?r\gh ! native baza> ( ,bombay is a revelation4 ,! c>riage works its way ) difficulty ?r\gh ! n>r[1 irregul> /reet1 cr[d$ ) natives 9 e v>iety ( co/ume 7or next to no co/ume71 =m+ a wond]ful mov+ patt]n ( brilliant col\r1 punctuat$ by sw>?y faces1 gleam+ eyes1 & :ite tee?4 ,%ops ( e k9d l9e ea* side ( ! way1 & ^! are r d>k & cav]n\s op5+s1 %ad$ by awn+s & divid$ by po/s or c>v$ pill>s on ! l[e/ /ory1 b rais$ f ! level ( ! /reets by l[ plat=ms :i* s]ve ! purposes ( c\nt] & work+ b5* to ! native m]*ant or craftsman :o squats ^u x1 & (t5 unites ! two functions 9 8 own p]son4 ,he g5]ally c>ries on 8 "w 9 ! pres5ce ( 8 :ole family1 app>5tly4 ,all ages & sexes cr[d 9 & ab\t ! %ops1 c>ry+ on a p]petual conv]sazione1 & ! baza> lit]ally sw>ms ) dusky1 turban$ faces1 v>i$ by ! deep r$ s>i ( ! ,h9du wom51 ) _! glitt]+ armlets & anklets1 or ! veil$ ,mohamm$an 9 h]--well1 pyjamas6 ,! old] h\se fronts above ! %ops 7 (t5 ri* ) c>v+ & col\r1 ! upp] /ories be+ g5]ally support$ ov] ! op5 %op by f\r columns4 ,x rem9d$ "o ( ! arrangem5t ( a m$ival /reet1 z also 9 its g5]al aspect1 ! %ops be+ mo/ly work%ops2 &1 z 9 ! old days 9 ,europe1 c\ld be se5 diff]5t crafts 9 full op]ation1 :ile ! f9i%$ products ( ea* 7 display$ = sale4 ,!re 7 tailors /it*+ away at g>m5ts1 copp]smi?s hamm]+ _! metal into %ape1 lea!r work]s1 jewell]s1 cook-%ops1 & _m m1 ! little d>k %ops 9 mo/ cases be+ cr[d$ ) o!r figures besides ^? ( ! work]s--ea* l a m9iature /age ( life ) an abundance ( drama go+ on 9 all4 ,! :ole baza>1 too1 0 gay ) col\r--:ite1 gre51 r$1 orange1 yell[1 & purple1 ( all sorts ( %ades & tones1 9 turban or robe--a p]fect fea/ = ! eye4 ,9 ! c\rse ( our drive ?r\gh ! baza> we met no less ?an ?ree w$d+ processions1 ?\gh r brok5 & int]rupt$ by ! traffic4 ,9 "o ! bridegroom 7:o1 ) ! ,h9dus & ,mohamm$ans1 is consid]$ ! mo/ important p]sonage 9 ! c]emony z well z ! spectacle7 0 9 a c>riage1 on 8 way to fet* ! bride1 9 gorge\s raim5t & ) a cr[n ^u 8 head4 ,he 0 foll[$ by p be>+ floral trophies1 p]haps int5d$ = decoration aft]w>ds4 ,^! consi/$ ( gilt vases ) artificial fl[]s 9 !m1 arrang$ 9 r[s close toge!r1 & c>ri$ 9 conv5i5t l5g?s on a plank or %elf by "y m5 be>]s4 ,ano!r ( ! bridegrooms 0 m\nt$ on a horse1 cr[n$ & rob$ l a ,byzant9e emp]or ) glitt]+ cap>isons & h\s+s1 a t9y little dusky girl sitt+ beh9d him & hold+ on1 :o 0 said to be 8 little si/]4 ,! ?ird bridegroom we saw 0 veil$1 9 addition to ! brav]y ( 8 glitt]+ attire4 ,fl[]s 7 /rewn by boys accompany+ him1 & a little bun* fell into our c>riage z we wait$ = ! procession to g by1 9 :i*1 ( c\rse1 ! musicians w5t be=e4 ,we aft]w>ds pass$ ! h\se :]e ! w$d+ 0 be+ celebrat$1 ! gue/s assembl+ 9 great numb]s to ! fea/1 a trem5d\s noise go+ on1 drums beat+ & trumpets bl[+4 ,9 "o ( ! processions v antique-look+ trumpets or horns 7 c>ri$ ( a l>ge size1 mu* resembl+ ! milit>y horns ( anci5t ,roman times4 ,^! 7 ,h9du w$d+s4 ,we also _h a glimpse ( a ,p>see w$d+4 ,?is 0 9 ! op5 c\rt ( a l>ge h\se arcad$ f ! /reet1 brilliantly illum9at$1 :]e sat a great cr[d ( gue/s all attir$ 9 :ite4 ,work+ "r ?r\gh ! native baza> we rea*$ ! ,victoria ,g>d5s1 a sort ( ,kew & ,zoological roll$ into "o1 be+ well /ock$ ) f9e palms & _m v>ieties ( tropical trees1 z well z birds & animals1 & all look+ 9 good condition & well kept4 ,_m ,eurasians 7 "h walk+ ab\t1 look+ v weird 9 ,european dress4 ,9 ^! g>d5s are situat$ ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum ( ,bombay4 ,sir ,george ,birdwood _h giv5 me an introduction to ,h4,h4 ! ,aga ,khan & we drove out to 8 abode1 only to f9d1 h[ev]1 t ,8 ,highness _h gone to ,calcutta on 8 way to ,japan4 ,i 0 n mu* m =tunate ) my o!r introductions to ! em95t ,p>see ,sir ,jamsetji ,jijibhai1 & ,sir ,c[asji ,jehangir ,readymoney4 ,al?\gh ! son ( ! latt] magnate did call ^u u & br\ght u an invitation f ,lady ,jehangir1 we 7 unable to accept x ow+ to ! %ortness ( our /ay 9 ,bombay4 ,i und]/ood t ! ,calcutta ,races 9 ,decemb] attract$ a great _m ( ! ri* ,bombay resid5ts1 & ?is acc\nt$ = ! abs5ce f _! homes ( _m at t "t4 ,we _h a glimpse ( "s ( ! palaces on ,malab> ,hill1 see+ ! latt] fir/ aga9/ a gl[+ sunset4 ,fr+$ ) palms & planta9s1 ) its fanta/ic build+s silh\ett$ on ! sky1 x recall$ ! banks ( /orm cl\d ,i _h se5 on ! voyage1 ) _! vapor\s trees & a]ial hang+ g>d5s4 ,a clos] acqua9tance did n impress u ) any conviction ( ! heal?9ess ( ,malab> ,hill1 ?\gh ( ! sumptu\sness ( its h\ses1 & (t5 _! fanta/ic "*1 & ! luxuriance ( its palms & g>d5s1 !re c\ld be no d\bt4 ,we pass$ ! grey wall ( ! ,t[] ( ,sil5ce1 ! burial 787 place ( ! ,p>sees1 :]e ! cr[s1 ! kites1 & ! vultures 7 ga!r$ toge!r1 b did n l+] !re4 ,f ! hill !re is c]ta9ly a magnific5t view ( ! city ( ,bombay3 especially if se5 j be=e sund[n1 :5 a gold5 gl[ seems to transfigure ! sc5e2 & lat]1 look+ d[n on ! va/ pla91 ! :ite h\ses p>tly hid 9 trees scatt]$ along ! %ore1 ! quays1 & ! %ips at an*or 9 ! bay1 all seem to s9k l a dream into ! roseate atmosph]e ( sunset4 ,b ev5 t lovely light is d>k5$ by a heavy smoke cl\d drift+ on ! city f ! =e/ ( gaunt factory *imneys ris+ 9 ! ,ea/ l ! %ad[ ( pov]ty :i* is always ca/ by ! ri*es ( ! ,we/4 ,"o r wond]$ t ,bombay 0 cont5t to all[ its be/ drive to be disfigur$ by a cont9u\s succession ( hide\s comm]cial po/]s pa9t$ along ! walls ( "o ( its sides1 ! o!r be+ l9$ ) palms & op5 t[>ds ! sea4 ,?is is1 h[ev]1 n worse indiff]5ce--9 fact n s bad--z ours at home 9 all[+ ! po/]s along ! railway l9es to disfigure ! *>m+ & v>i$ l&scape ( our own c\ntry4 ,illu/ration3 ,,int]view ,,) ,,c&idates ,,= ,,! ,,po/ ,,( ,,be>]--,,mo/ly ,,unbe>able6 ,"o ( ! fir/ necessities to ! travell] 9 ,india1 especially if he be ignorant ( ,h9du/anee1 is ! engag+ ( a native be>] or s]vant4 ,!re is always a l>ge class ( ^! seek+ engagem5ts4 ,!y may be se5 hang+ ab\t ,messrs ,cook's ,t\ri/ ,(fices 9 gr\ps4 ,!y usually we> :ite clo!s & turbans1 b ! half-ca/e ,portuguese are dress$ 9 semi-,european fa%ion ) _! clo? suits & small1 flat1 r\nd caps ( ! sort :i* us$ to be t]m$ 8pork pie0 9 ,engl&1 only l[]4 ,^! are embroid]$ r\nd ! rim1 & a simil> sort ( head cov]+ is also worn by sup]ior ca/e ,h9dus4 ,= ! po/ ( be>] ! travell] w f9d pl5ty ( applicants :5 he makes 8 requirem5ts kn[n1 9 fact _! numb] is r emb>rass+1 & !y all produce 8*its0 or lett]s ( recomm5dation f =m] employ]s4 ,^!1 inde$1 are ! only ref]5ces to g ^u1 unless "o happ5s to come ) ! p]sonal te/imony ( a fri5d4 ,! be>]s mo/ly regi/] _! names at ,cook's (fices1 b !y d n take any responsibility !re = !m 9 any way4 ,^! native s]vants expect #ce rupees 7& upw>ds7 a mon?1 ) an all[ance = clo!s1 b out ( ?is pay !y f9d _! own food4 ,if1 h[ev]1 _! food is provid$1 !y take less pay--ab\t #be rupees--b prices g5]ally h an upw>d t5d5cy4 ,! engagem5t may probably be = ?ree or f\r mon?s1 :i* gives ! ord9>y ,european t\ri/ "t to get r\nd ,india1 visit+ ! pr9cipal places ( int]e/ en r\te4 ,a rupee 9 ,india is n[ only wor? "o %ill+ & f\r-p5ce1 & fifte5 rupees are ! equival5t ( a sov]eign1 x %\ld be rememb]$4 ,( c\rse ! be>]'s travell+ exp5ses & wa%+ are paid z long z he is ) 8 ma/]1 & 8 f>e home :5 8 engagem5t comes to an end1 & !n1 too1 probably he w\ld get a pres5t if 8 conduct has be5 satisfactory4 ,"o does n g5]ally expect mirrors ( virtue & tru/9ess on su* t]ms4 ,no d\bt native be>]s v>y consid]ably 9 capacity & exp]i5ce z well z 9 appe>ance1 to say no?+ ( hone/y & fidelity1 & "s are bett] z c\ri]s ?an z body or camp s]vants1 or vice v]sa4 ,"s claim to be effici5t valets des places 9 addition to ord9>y s]vices1 b x %\ld be rememb]$ t ! be>] ca/e are n all[$ to ent] ! sacr$ prec9cts ( ! great temples 9 ,india4 ,our *oice1 influ5c$ ma9ly by a p]sonal recomm5dation1 fell on "o ,moonsawmy--a n unusual ,h9du "n4 ,he _h be5 9 ! s]vice ( ,sir ,samuel ,bak] & _h _h "s exp]i5ce 9 tig]-%oot+1 or at any rate _h be5 out on su* exp$itions & 9 camp ) ! fam\s travell] & sportsman1 b he _h also act$ z c\ri] to ,engli% p>ties travell+ 9 ,india1 & pr(ess$ to "k ! c\ntry well4 ,we _h plann$ an excursion to ! caves ( ,ellora f ,bombay ) our fri5d ,m4 ,dauv]gne1 :o _h nev] se5 !m & 0 anxi\s to d s4 ,hav+ mapp$ out our r\te we />t$ on our exp$ition on ,decemb] ! #aj?4 ,leav+ ,victoria ,/ation1 ,bombay1 at noon1 we travell$ by ! ,g4 ,i4 ,p4 7,great ,indian ,p59sul> ,railway71 mak+ our fir/ tra9 j\rney 9 ,india4 ,! l9e cross$ a cultivat$ pla9 at fir/1 gett+ cle> ( ,bombay2 gr\ps ( date palms "h & !re 7 sugge/ive ( ,egypt4 ,we pass$ native villages ( diff]5t types1 "s ) ?at*$ ro(s & "s ) tile--br[n ridge tiles n unlike :at "o sees 9 ,italy1 & ev5 corrugat$ iron 0 visible 7alas67 "h & !re4 ,! l[ huts built ( sun-dri$ bricks or mud ) flat ro(s 7 ! /range/ & mo/ ea/]n-look+4 ,"o c\ld get glimpses1 too1 ( ! inhabitants1 ! ,h9du wom5 9 s>is1 (t5 ( r$ or purple or blue1 be>+ on _! heads wat] j>s or bright brass or copp] vessels1 ) mu* natural grace1 "s also c>ry+ little br[n babies support$ by "o arm on _! hip4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,b$ ,,at ,,! ,,dak ,,bungal[6 ,,munmad 7,,keep ,,x ,,da7,r7,k7 ,leav+ ! pla9s we ent]$ a v int]e/+ hill c\ntry cov]$ ) jungle & =e/s :]e we saw _m teak trees & banyans1 besides _m v>ieties ( acacia4 ,m\nta9s ( /rik+ =m came into view1 sugge/ive ( ca/l$ crags4 ,we soon aft]w>ds pass$ ! ,?ull ,ghat1 :]e ! l9e rises z mu* z #ajej feet 9 a di/ance ( ab\t t5 miles--:i* means a /eep gradi5t4 ,we pass$ rice fields1 also sug> canes1 & a k9d ( ,indian corn1 b n maize1 & ca/or-oil plants :i* are cultivat$ ext5sively4 ,!re 7 int]e/+ & picturesque gr\ps ( natives at all ! /ations4 ,f9ally ,munmad 0 rea*$ t[>ds six o'clock 9 ! ev5+4 ,?is 0 our fir/ /age1 & ! junction = ,daulatabad our next1 9 ! t]ritory ( ! ,nizam ( ,hyd]abad4 ,we1 h[ev]1 decid$ to /ay ! night at ,munmad & g on ! next morn+--9 fact1 if ,i rememb] "r1 x 0 a case ( necessity1 z !re 0 no tra9 on t ev5+4 ,s we 7 conduct$ to ! ,dak ,bungal[1 "s little walk f ! /ation1 ?r\gh a native village1 ) our baggage c>ri$ on ! heads ( wom5 coolies4 ,we f\nd ! bungal[ a mo/ inhospitable place ( incr$ible b>5ess1 & no?+ to sleep on b n>r[ wood5 fram$ c\*es1 hav+ a sort ( /r+y webb+ full ( holes4 ,! gaunt draughty rooms 7 almo/ de/itute ( o!r furniture & _h no conv5i5ces ( any k9d4 ,! native keep] ( ! place seem$ helpless4 ,!re 0 no food to be _h1 & he c\ld n h cook$ x if !re _h be51 s we _h to make %ift z be/ we c\ld ) :at we _h 9 our tea baskets4 ,i %\ld n advise any "o to travel 9 ,india1 at lea/ at all (f ! track ( hotels1 )\t provisions & b$d+4 ,!re 0 n mu* sleep to be _h t night4 ,! b$s 7 frightfully uncom=table & ! room 0 cold4 ,an ,anglo-,indian (ficial on ! =e/ s]vice occupi$ ! be/ room1 we aft]w>ds discov]$1 b he1 z is usual1 travell$ ) 8 horses & sev]al s]vants1 includ+ a cook1 & a supply ( necess>ies ( all sorts4 ,we left ! inhospitable bungal[ e>ly ! next morn+1 process+ ?r\gh ! village 9 ! same way z t 9 :i* we _h come1 ) our baggage on ! heads ( ! coolie wom54 ,we made ! acqua9tance at ,munmad ( ! *>m+1 frisky little palm squirrels :i* ab\nd ev]y:]e 9 ,india--delightful little gre5i%-grey creatures ) d>k longitud9al /ripes ext5d+ f _! noses to _! tails4 ,!y play ab\t ! dwell+s q famili>ly1 b are (f l a %ot up a tree & out ( sight at ! smalle/ al>m4 ,scal+ ! trunk ( a tree spirally1 !y h almo/ ! appe>ance ( liz>ds1 & !y are c]ta9ly z nimble4 ,! buffalo c[1 too1 is se5 9 e ,indian village1 a /range1 dusky1 r\gh-coat$ bea/1 ) a weird1 half-human1 b r s9i/] expression 9 its d>k eyes1 ) long horns turn$ back ^u _! necks4 ,!y walk scornfully along to be milk$1 ) an air :i* seems to say !y ?\ght ! _w b a poor place4 ,we took tra9 to ,daulatabad & ent]$ ! ,nizam's t]ritory4 ,a police (fic] 9 8 s]vice 0 9 ! tra91 & 0 v intellig5t & gave u mu* useful in=mation4 ,we n[ pass$ ?r\gh a m arid-look+ c\ntry ?an be=e1 :]e cactuses & l[ trees grew sp>sely on burnt yell[ slopes & rocky hills1 (t5 ( /range =m1 ! c\ntry %[+ signs ( a great upheaval f ! sea4 ,at ,daulatabad1 a small road /ation1 a tonga 0 wait+ = u1 drawn by two poor brok5-d[n ponies & a r ragg$ r$-turban$ driv]4 ,our de/9ation 0 ! t[n ( ,rozah1 a drive ( "s t5 miles & mo/ly uphill1 on a loose1 r\gh road4 ,a conspicu\s object 9 ! l&scape at ,daulatabad is ! anci5t =tress ^u a /eep hill ris+ abruptly f ! pla94 ,x 0 a fam\s /ronghold1 b 0 conqu]$ by ! ,mohamm$ans 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,!re are ! ru9s ( ! anci5t city :i* x once protect$1 & )9 ! citadel are rema9s ( ,h9du temples1 "o trans=m$ into a mosque by ! ,moslems4 ,our road lay ?r\gh ! %att]$ gates :i* /ill m>k$ ! ext5t ( ! city ) fragm5ts ( ! out] walls1 ! :ole area ov]gr[n ) trees & h]bage1 & clu/]s ( native huts "h & !re4 ,! road to ,rozah is an almo/ cont9u\s asc5t1 & 9 "s places v /eep1 :i* made x v h>d "w = ! wret*$ ponies :i* dragg$ our tonga1 ?\gh1 ( c\rse1 we reliev$ x ( our weight by walk+ up ! wor/ hills4 ,! sun 0 blaz+1 b !re 0 a little %ade to be _h occasionally "u ! f9e banyan trees :i* skirt$ ! roadside4 ,t[>ds ev5+ we saw ! domes ( ,rozah on a high plateau 9 front ( u1 & pres5tly ent]$ ! t[n ?r\gh a battlem5t$ gate4 ,x 0 a ,mohamm$an t[n ) _m important dom$ tombs1 b x _h a neglect$ & sp>sely peopl$ aspect & a look ( dep>t$ spl5d\r4 ,we made our way along a /raggl+ /reet1 &1 pass+ ?r\gh ano!r gate1 came out ^u ! o!r end ( ! plateau1 f :i* we saw1 op5+ be=e u z f> z ! eye c\ld rea* t[>ds ! we/1 ! va/1 gre51 fruitful pla9s ( ! ,deccan4 ,9 comm& ( ?is view we f\nd our qu>t]s = ! night--! ,travell]s' ,bungal[--b ?is1 ! ,nizam's bungal[1 0 a great contra/ to ! "o at ,munmad1 be+ clean & com=table1 ) good b$s & suffici5t furniture & rugs1 & a ba?-room4 ,! native 9 *>ge 0 able to provide food1 too1 & to cook a d9n]1 :i*1 if n exactly ,p>isian1 01 at all ev5ts1 a va/ improvem5t ^u our la/ "o4 ,! sun set )\t a cl\d1 ! la/ gold5 light l+]+ ^u ! :ite & black domes ( ! tombs ar\nd u4 ,!n foll[$ ! aft]gl[1 & !n ! d>kness fell l a curta91 b ! />s 7 int5sely bright 9 ! cle> sky4 ,! air 0 v pure & ! sil5ce ( ! place 0 pr(\nd4 ,we 7 glad to re/ aft] our long1 hot1 du/y j\rney1 b ,i manag$ to get a sket* done be=e ! light w5t4 ,aft] breakfa/ ! next morn+ 7,decemb] #ab7 we />t$ to walk to ! caves at ,ellora1 :i* we f\nd 7 only a %ort di/ance d[n ! hill4 ,a w9d+ road l$ u pa/ ano!r ( ! ,nizam's bungal[s to a sort ( t]race 9 front ( ! fir/ great cave1 or1 m prop]ly1 rock-cut temple1 ! ,kylas1 :i*1 com+ d[n ! hill f above1 "o does n see until close ^u x1 & x is only on ent]+ ! c\rt ?r\gh ! great gateway t "o sl[ly realises ! wond] ( x4 ,a huge temple ( symmetric gr\nd plan cut clean out ( ! great cliff1 ! /raight sides ( :i* are se5 ris+ l a va/ wall above x4 ,a mass ( intricate & ri*ly c>v$ detail1 a v]itable incru/ation ( c>v+ ( extraord9>y ri*ness rises be=e "o4 ,/&+ cle> 9 a spaci\s c\rt1 enclos$ on ?ree sides by a deep arcade cut 9 ! %e] sides ( ! cliff 7:i* %[s ! tool m>ks71 hav+ an out] r[ ( massive deta*$ columns & an inn] r[ ( engag$ columns1 & deep recess$ *amb]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,kylas1 ,,caves ,,( ,,ellora ,on ea* side ( ! entrance to ! temple 9 ! c\rt /& two isolat$ columns or pylons1 & ne> ^! two great /one elephants4 ,^! columns & elephants really flank a big p$e/al ( /one ) /eps cut 9 x :i* lead up to a huge image ( a ,sacr$ ,bull )9 a squ>e *amb]1 f :i* a bridge is cross$ & ! portico ( ! temple is rea*$4 ,?r\gh ?is ! great c5tral hall1 or nave1 ( ! temple is ent]$1 divid$ into f\r p>ts by gr\ps ( pill>s1 leav+ an op5 passage up ! middle & across to a portico on ea* side4 ,f ?is *amb] a few /eps lead to ! %r9e ( ! ,l+am1 ?r\gh a doorway4 ,!re are /eps & doorways to ea* side ( ! %r9e :i* lead on to op5 plat=ms1 :]e are five recesses ri*ly cov]$ ) sculptures ( ! ,h9du my?ology1 z inde$ is ! :ole temple1 bo? )9 & )\t4 ,! c>v$ treatm5t & ! :ole idea ( ! s*eme sugge/s t ! orig9al prototypes ( su* temples mu/ h be5 /ructures ( wood1 & ! elaborate treatm5t & small scale ( "s ( ! ornam5tal "w seems rem9isc5t ( wood-c>v+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,we ,,are ,,introduc$ ,,to ,,! ,,caves ,,( ,,ellora ,! c>v$ "w may be said to be ( two k9ds4 ,!re 0 a sort ( ar*itectural or =mal ornam5t 9 l[ relief resembl+ 9 /yle & treatm5t ,assyrian "w1 9 :i* ! lotus frequ5tly appe>$ treat$ z a flat rosette & us$ z pat]1 arrang$ 9 r[s ) int]vals2 & !re 0 a high relief treatm5t ( figure sculpture4 ,among ! horizontal c\rses ( c>v$ decoration ,i not$ a treatm5t ( ! g>l& or swag1 ! ends be+ twi/$ ?r\gh r+s f :i* !y 7 repres5t$ z dep5d+4 ,^! might h be5 ( a ,greek or ,roman patt]n4 ,! ext]ior c>v+ ( ! temple 9 ! p>ts %elt]$ "u eaves & by doorways %[$ traces ( pa9t+--! col\rs be+ r$ & gre5 on :ite4 ,! :ole ( ! surfaces appe> to h be5 coat$ ) pla/] to receive col\r1 9 ! same way z may be se5 at ! temple ( ,ca/or & ,pollux at ,girg5ti4 ,! /one :5 expos$ to ! wea!r 0 v mu* black5$ & resembl$ ! grit/one ( ,d]by%ire 9 col\r & texture4 ,! ,temple 0 d$icat$ to ,siva1 b ! :ole ,h9du pan!on ( ! ,v$ic gods appe>$ to be sculptur$ 9 ?is m>vell\s place1 z well z ! diff]5t avators ( ,siva4 ,! ,h9du religion is really a great sy/em ( nature wor%ip1 all ! p[]s1 =ces1 & influ5ces be+ p]sonifi$ & symbolis$1 no?+ be+ acc\nt$ 8common or unclean0--! elephant-head$ ,gane%a & ! monkey god ,hunuman tak+ _! place z 8eligible deities0--! :ole s*eme re/+ on ! ackn[l$gm5t ( ! sexual orig9 ( life4 ,! g5]ative organs !mselves be+ rev]$ z sacr$1 & symbolis$ 9 ! my/]i\s ,l+am :i* is en%r9$ 9 all ! ,h9du temples1 & ! object ( special devotion4 ,! god ,siva & ,p>vati 8 sp\se =m ! pr9cipal subject among ! sculptures ( ! ,kylas4 ,a /rik+ design r ,egyptian 9 feel+ 0 to be se5 9 a l>ge c>v$ panel ( ,p>vati repres5t$ z seat$ on ! wat]1 or r on a mass ( lotus leaves & fl[]s--! fl[] ( life--) att5dant elephants symmetrically arrang$ on ea* side1 %[]+ wat] ^u ! goddess f _! trunks4 ,9 all c\ntries religi\s symbols are tak5 f famili> & *>act]i/ic objects common to ea*1 al?\gh1 z ,c\nt ,goblet d',albiella po9ts out 9 8 mo/ int]e/+ & le>n$ "w on ! 8,migration ( ,symbols10 !re is also a process ( ex*ange & adaptation 9 ideas betwe5 diff]5t peoples & c\ntries by means ( :i* we get import$ types1 :i*1 h[ev]1 become naturalis$ & reappe> 9 ! =m or conv5tion peculi> to ! c\ntry ( _! adoption4 ,illu/ration3 ,,& ,,its ,,wasps6 ,z we gaz$ up at ! cliffs f :i* ?is wond]ful /ructure _h be5 hewn1 we notic$ a numb] ( gre5 p>rots flutt]+ ab\t or cl++ to ! %e] walls ( rock--l vivid gre5 fla%es ( light ^u ! cold /one4 ,d[n 9 ! c\rt a numb] ( extraord9>ily l>ge-siz$ wasps came buzz+ ab\t u4 ,!y look$ =midable en\gh b did n d any damage1 ?\gh _! obtrusion did n facilitate ! process ( a sket*+ aga9/ "t4 ,besides ! ,kylas1 :i* is said to date f ab\t #gej-hej ,a4,d41 !re 7 a numb] ( o!r & small] temples1 cut 9 ! face ( ! cliff at int]vals ext5d+ along ! hill on ea* side ( ! ,kylas4 ,! mo/ anci5t is suppos$ to date f #bjj ,b4,c4 & ! late/ f ! ?irte5? c5tury ,a4,d4 ,a guide on ! spot %[$ u sev]al ,buddhi/ temples & ^! 7 mu* m cave-l 9 "*4 ,"o _h v f9e massive c>v$ & flut$ columns4 ,! second temple we saw sugge/$ 9 its plan & =m an apsidal basilica1 & 9 detail wood5 /ructure1 ! ro( be+ c>v$ 9 close ribs1 curv$ to ! =m ( a po9t$ ar*1 support$ by a horizontal cornice & columns set v close toge!r4 ,a colossal figure ( ! seat$ ,buddha fill$ ! view at ! end ( ! nave1 b !re 0 an ambulatory beh9d x4 ,! figure 0 pa9t$ a d>k r$ ) :ite drap]y & black hair1 ! eyes1 ) /rongly m>k$ :ite & black pupils1 _h a fix$ />e :i* c>ri$ ! :ole l5g? ( ! ,temple4 ,! next temple visit$1 also ,buddhi/ic1 0 mu* pla9]1 & 0 be+ support$ by new buttresses ( masonry to prev5t ! cliff f fall+4 ,! ?ird 0 l>g] b also q pla9 & squ>e cut1 ! /ructure ( ! pill>s & cornice be+ aga9 on timb] pr9ciples2 b none approa*$ ! ,kylas 9 beauty & int]e/4 ,! village ( ,ellora lay on ! pla9 among trees ab\t a mile & a half away f ! foot ( ! cliff4 ,our guide po9t$ out "s ,ja9 temples !re half hidd5 9 masses ( foliage & sugge/$ a walk !re1 b by ?is "t1 betwe5 #aj & #aa o'clock 9 ! morn+1 ! sun 0 v p[]ful & ! heat great1 & z !re 0 no %ade till ! village 0 rea*$ & we _h to get back to our bungal[1 we gave x up & climb$ ! hill aga94 ,z we left ! ,kylas a l>ge & mo/ picturesque gr\p ( natives 7 squatt$ outside ! gateway hav+ a sort ( picnic1 a day out ) _! wives & num]\s *ildr51 & !y 7 w&]+ all ov] ! temple *att]+ & laugh+ z !y exam9$ ! sculptures & seem+ly enjoy+ !mselves mu*4 ,!y gaz$ at u curi\sly z we pass$1 z at "s /range animals f an unkn[n c\ntry4 ,m4 ,dauv]gne took "s photographs ( ! caves1 :ile ,i manag$ to get a col\r$ sket* ( ! ,kylas1 & a few notes4 ,we f\nd ! return j\rney to ,daulatabad r easi]1 be+ mo/ly d[nhill1 ?\gh x 0 s precipit\s 9 places t x 0 a m>vel our poor ponies kept on _! legs4 ,we met _m natives on ! road1 bo? ,mohamm$ans & ,h9dus1 z well z h]ds ( goats1 & asses ) sacks ( gra9 slung across _! backs1 black %eep & zebu c>ts4 ,we rea*$ ,daulatabad /ation ab\t ! middle ( ! day1 or e>ly aft]noon1 & 7 =tunate en\gh 7ow+ to ! language at ! comm& ( our fri5d :o expla9$ our wants7 to get q an excell5tly cook$ & nicely s]v$ tiff9 9 ! wait+-room4 ,!re 7 int]e/+ native figures ab\t ! /ation1 & a gr\p ( figures at ! village well n f> (f1 :]e ,i got a sket* ( a ,h9du girl 9 a blue s>i ) a wat] j> on h] head4 ,%e _h a little r\nd m>k 7,buddhi/7 l a r$ seal on h] =ehead1 & h] "n 0 ,ha%uma4 ,we got a tra9 ab\t #e4cj back to ,munmad arriv+ !re soon aft] #i at night4 ,aft] d9+ at ! /ation we bade f>ewell to our fri5d ,m4 ,dauv]gne1 :o 0 travell+ on to ,b>eilly1 f> up 9 ! nor?-we/]n prov9ces to jo9 8 %oot+ companion4 ,our tra9 f ,bombay did n leave until #c ,a4,m41 b sleep 0 impossible ow+ to ! noise1 al?\gh we _h a wait+-room to ourselves4 ,x 0 only ! usual conv]sazione :i* is c>ri$ on at e ,indian /ation by ! natives :o ?rong ! plat=ms1 (t5 wait+ all night = a tra91 squatt+ 9 gr\ps & keep+ up a cont9ual /ream ( talk4 ,we 7 reliev$ :5 a fai?ful coolie ann\nc$ ! arrival ( our tra9 & c>ri$ 9 our bags4 ,we _h a comp>tm5t to ourselves = ! mo/ "p until ne>+ ,bombay1 our only fell[-pass5g]s be+ at diff]5t times a v quiet ,h9du1 & a ,briti% (fic] ( ! ,royal ,scots :o did n travel f>4 ,b1 be=e we got 91 ! c>riage became cr[d$ ) e v>iety ( co/ume1 ,p>see & ,h9du m]*ants gett+ 9 = ,bombay1 until we 7 q full up &--oh6 s hot4 ,glad we 7 to get 9 at la/1 b n till noon--! hotte/ "t ( day--feel+ r fagg$ aft] our long j\rney4 ,! heat 9 ,bombay is v oppressive ev5 9 ! s-call$ cool season4 ,we g5]ally liv$ 9 a temp]ature ( ab\t #hh1 ?is 9 ! d9+-room be+ mitigat$ by electric fans2 b x is always a relief :5 ! sun decl9es1 & a drive 9 ! cool ( ! ev5+ is delightful4 ,we plann$ a r ext5sive t\r1 & ) ! assi/ance ( ,messrs ,cook1 work$ out a complete it9]>y ?r\gh ,india1 end+ at ,ceylon1 f :5ce we purpos$ to return 9 ! foll[+ ,m>*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,arrival ,,( ,,mr4 ,,dadabhai ,,naoroji ,,at ,,bombay1 ,,dec4 #ad1 #aijf ,on ,decemb] #ad ,m4 ,dadabhai ,naoroji arriv$ by ! ,arcadia at ,bombay on 8 way to ! ,national ,congress at ,calcutta ( :i* he _h be5 elect$ ,presid5t4 ,he _h a great welcome4 ,flags & triumphal ar*es 7 put up along ! esplanade1 & he 0 br\ght f ! ,taj ,mahal ,hotel 9 a motor c> decorat$ ) fl[]s4 ,an enorm\s cr[d turn$ out to welcome him1 *iefly ( ! ,p>see community1 & ,p>sees 7 conspicu\s 9 ! balconies ( ! h\ses & hotels along ! r\te ( ! procession & p>see inscriptions ( welcome hung across ! /reets4 ,x 0 a /rik+ sc5e f our balcony altoge!r4 ,! la/ gold5 rays ( ! sun 7 slant+ across ! op5 esplanade alt]nat+ ) broad lum9\s %ad[s & along ! front /ream$ a va/ :ite clad cr[d--s diff]5t to ! black cr[ds we are accu/om$ to 9 ,europe--a :ite cr[d v>i$ ) notes ( bright col\r & black "h & !re1 & ! r$ bunt+ float+ ar\nd ! bronze eque/rian /atue ( ,k+ ,edw>d ,,vii4 9 ! =egr\nd3 :ile ! balconies 7 gay ) ,p>see ladies 9 _! delicate embroid]$ silks1 can>y col\r$1 p9k1 blue1 gre51 violet & sc>let4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,ahm$abad ,we left ,bombay = ,ahm$abad on ,decemb] ! #ae?4 ,f9d+ t ! be/ tra9 0 a night "o1 & z x 0 a j\rney ( "s ?ree hundr$ miles or m1 & "t 0 an object1 we made up our m9ds1 ?\gh n giv5 to night travell+1 to make an exception to our usual practice1 al?\gh we %\ld lose ! sight ( ! c\ntry by ! way4 ,railway travell+ 9 ,india is q z com=table z "o might expect4 ,! c>riages1 x is true1 v>y on diff]5t l9es & accord+ to age1 b1 z a rule1 ! tra9s h sep>ate c>riages = ,europeans & = diff]5t classes ( natives1 & x is (t5 q possible to h an entire comp>tm5t ev5 = a long di/ance4 ,on "s l9es ! fir/-class c>riages are sc>cely bett] ?an ! second1 b ! f>e is d\ble4 ,! be/ c>riages h comp>tm5ts conta9+ two long lea!r-cov]$ seats1 ea* side "u ! w9d[s1 :i* c be turn$ into sleep+ c\*es at night4 ,!re is a good space betwe5 !m & also at ! end betwe5 ! doors1 & a lavatory is always atta*$4 ,above ! seats are slung two upp] b]?s1 s t ! comp>tm5t c\ld be arrang$ = f\r sleep]s4 ,any am\nt ( light luggage c be tak5 into ! comp>tm5ts by pass5g]s1 b ! heavy mu/ be regi/]$4 ,! w9d[s are protect$ f ! sun by ,v5etian %utt]s1 :i* c be let up or d[n1 z well z glass1 cle> or ton$1 & sometimes f9e wire scre5s4 ,outside !re is a sort ( hood1 betwe5 :i* & ! tops ( ! w9d[s is a space = air1 s t ! fi]ce heat ( ! sun is temp]$1 & ! c>riage %ield$ to a c]ta9 ext5t f its rays4 ,we f\nd v well-appo9t$ sleep+-c>s to ,ahm$abad1 b divid$ into ladies' & g5tlem5's comp>tm5ts4 ,z x happ5$1 ano!r c\ple 7 ! only o!rs travell+ by ! fir/-class sleep+-c> besides ourselves1 s t we 7 able to arrange betwe5 ourselves t husb&s & wives 7 n divid$1 ea* pair hav+ a comp>tm5t to !mselves4 ,ahm$abad 0 rea*$ ab\t half-pa/ sev5 9 ! morn+4 ,a cr[d ( coolies usually ru% to seize y\r baggage on ! arrival ( a tra91 & our be>] 0 useful 9 keep+ !m at bay a bit4 ,!re 0 a ,dak bungal[ at ,ahm$abad1 b we did n feel any decid$ lean+ t[>ds x1 &1 f9d+ !re 7 q dec5t b$rooms to be _h at ! /ation & t we c\ld fe$ 9 ! refre%m5t-room1 we decid$ to /ay !re4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,feet ,,( ,,pilgrims 7,,at ,,mohamm$an ,,mosques7 ,c>riages 7 to be _h at f six to eight rupees a day1 & we engag$ "o & _h a drive ?r\gh ! t[n1 /opp+ to see ! mosques = :i* x is s fam$4 ,! ,jama ,musjid _h a spl5did1 spaci\s c\rt 9 front ( x1 wall$ ar\nd1 ! entrance be+ ?r\gh a r small door1 :]e x is necess>y = ! visitors ei!r to put (f _! %oes or to cons5t to h enorm\s loose ones ( grass or matt+ ti$ on ov] _! own1 :i* seems to prev5t desecration q z effici5tly4 ,! mosque _h fifte5 domes1 & inside 0 a =e/ ( :ite pill>s 7#bfj71 & a l>ge gall]y = ! wom51 scre5$ ) pi]c$ /one-"w 9 lovely patt]ns4 ,!re 7 ! m>ble tombs ( ,ahmad ,%ah--! build] ( ! mosque--& 8 son & gr&son1 ri*ly c>v$ 9 delicate relief1 ! sides be+ arcad$1 & "u ea* ar* ! repres5tation ( a hang+ lamp1 or c5s]1 "s ( ! latt] %[+ an ornam5tal treatm5t ( smoke asc5d+ f !m4 ,! m>ble pavem5ts _h a peculi> f9e dull poli%1 noticeable 9 mosque pavem5ts ?r\gh\t ,india1 :i* is ! result ( ! con/ant movem5t ( ! b>e feet ( ! natives pass+ ov] _! surface4 ,! tombs ( ! que5s ( ,ahmad ,%ah 7 c>v$ ) rem>kable f95ess4 ,"o1 inlaid ) delicate trees 9 :ite m>ble or black1 0 z f9e z any ,p]sian cab9et "w 9 ivory4 ,! ,que5's ,mosque1 ) ?ree domes1 conta9s *>m+ c>v+ & pi]c$ scre5-"w4 ,! mosque ( ,rani ,sipri & h] tomb are m>vell\sly ri* 9 f9e c>v+ 9 r$ s&/one & scre5-"w1 & sugge/ 9 "s ( _! =ms & ! ri* incru/ation ( _! ornam5t ! influ5ce ( ,h9du "w1 :i*1 inde$1 is a *>act]i/ic ( _m "h4 ,beautiful pi]c$ scre5s ( /one-"w1 divid$ into panels by ! support+ columns1 enclose ! tomb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,poor ,,relations ,= ! lovelie/ designs1 h[ev]1 9 pi]c$ scre5-"w1 "o /ill turns to ^? ( ! w9d[s ( ! ,sidi ,sayyids' ,mosque1 especially to ! two :]e9 palms & rose-trees are comb9$ 9 a sort ( natural =mation to =m a lovely me% ( intricate1 yet p]fectly coh]5t & balanc$ patt]n1 :i* fills ! tympanum %ape ( l[-ar*$ w9d[s2 a design 9 light on d>k se5 f ! outside1 & 9 d>k aga9/ light se5 f )91 :5 x fulfils its purpose ( break+ up ! light ( ! sun1 & produc+ t en*ant+ lum9\s twilight s *>act]i/ic ( ,ea/]n int]iors4 ,!re are reproductions ( two ( ^! w9d[s at our ,indian ,museum at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 b ,i _h long desir$ to see ! orig9als1 & ,i 0 n disappo9t$4 ,! w>m light ( ! late aft]noon sun l+]$ 9 _! int]/ices1 &1 se5 f bel[1 ! "u sides ( ! m>ble fret took ri* gold5 reflections1 :i* gave ! designs q a new aspect1 & fill$ !m ) life & col\r1 giv+ ! effect almo/ ( sunlit foliage4 ,we drove to see ,%ah ,alam's ,mosque1 built ab\t #adbj1 :i* 0 rea*$ 9 ab\t half an h\r beyond ! city gates1 along a cool av5ue ( acacias4 ,! mosque has a f9e c\rt & m9>ets1 & a spl5did canopi$ tomb1 ) pill>s inlaid ) "m-o'-pe>l2 beautiful metal-"w 9 pi]c$ brass gates & scre5s4 ,on return+ f ?is drive we /opp$ ne> ! riv] ,s>b>mati 9 a grove ( trees1 *iefly banyan1 mango1 & acacia4 ,"h a native boy set up a peculi> hoot+ sort ( call1 & pres5tly we saw troops ( silv] grey monkeys dropp+ f ! trees & gamboll+ along t[>ds u betwe5 ! /ems--hundr$s ( !m app>5tly--hurry+ up to fe$ on ! dri$ peas we scatt]$ = !m4 ,!y came cr[d+ ar\nd u1 b 7 q fri5dly1 & _m w\ld fe$ out ( our h&s4 ,!y v>i$ mu* 9 size1 b 7 mo/ly l>ge1 & c>ri$ _! tails high 9 ! air & curl$ ov] _! backs 9 spirit$ curves :5 walk+ on all-f\rs4 ,_m ( ! female monkeys c>ri$ _! "y ones ) !m4 ,all look$ beautifully clean & heal?y1 & 7 full ( play--9 fact z diff]5t z possible 9 _! fre$om f ! poor captives 9 cages at zoological g>d5s4 ,x 0 amus+ to wat* _! pranks & to note ! ease ) :i* !y w\ld climb up into ! trees1 "s ( :i* 7 z full ( monkeys almo/ z bran*es4 ,z we left ! monkeys we _h ano!r unusual sight4 ,we saw a l>ge & leafy mango tree lean+ ov] ! riv]1 :i* seem$ to h sudd5ly bur/ into :ite blossoms2 b we soon p]ceiv$ ^! suppos$ fl[]s beg9 to flutt]1 & w+$ ones deta*$ !mselves f ! mass ( :ite1 :i* we !n discov]$ 7 :ite cranes4 ,!y w\ld rise 9 a cl\d & settle aga9 ev] & anon among ! gre5 foliage4 ,!y 7 a small k9d1 n l>g] ?an a h]on1 & are common all ov] ,india4 ,we (t5 saw !m aft]w>ds ris+ by ! side ( ! pools by ! railway track1 or fi%+1 or fly+ ov] ! subm]g$ paddy fields1 b 9 small] numb]s1 & nev] s beautifully4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,family ,,p>ty--,,cranes ,,on ,a ,,mango ,,tree 7,,s>b>mati ,,riv]7 ,on ! :ite & du/y road to ,ahm$abad we met numb]s ( wagons load$ ) cotton bales & drawn by l>ge :ite ox54 ,! c\ntry c>ts _h wick] bodies1 some:at l ^? ,i h se5 9 ,g]many1 & primitive massive :eels ) eight spokes 9 a d\ble cross4 ,camels 7 occasionally se5 ridd5 by natives4 ,z at ,bombay1 !re 7 ext5sive cotton factories "h1 & cotton 0 v l>gely gr[n 9 ! c\ntry ar\nd4 ,! baza>s & ! /reet life 9 ,ahm$abad are mo/ v>i\s & int]e/+1 all sorts ( trades & crafts be+ c>ri$ on4 ,!re is /ill a great quantity ( silk-weav+ done1 & brocades wr\ght ) gold ?read4 ,a prov]b ( ! place quot$ by ,mr ,w4 ,s4 ,ca9e has x t ! prosp]ity ( ,ahm$abad hangs on ?ree ?reads--8gold1 silk1 & cotton02 & ^! ?ree ?reads /ill symbolise ! ma9 indu/ries ( ! city4 ,a picturesque incid5t 9 ! /reets is ! silk-w9d]--9 "s op5 space 9 front ( ! %ops y may sometimes see a native woman /&+ 7l ,mr ,holman ,hunt's 8,lady ( ,%alott07 )9 a l[ squ>e enclosure =m$ ( bamboo /icks w\nd ) long /r&s ( silk ?read4 ,%e holds a sort ( sp9dle 9 h] left h&1 & a long tap]+ w& 9 h] "r1 by means ( :i* %e divides or regulates ! ?read z %e w9ds x (f on to ! bamboo /icks1 rapidly twirl+ ! sp9dle z %e does s4 ,x is an extremely pretty & picturesque sight4 ,! old me?ods ( h&-weav+ are practis$1 & = weav+ ! brocades or 8k9cobs0 ! treadles 9 ! loom are lift$ f above by a boy1 :o draws up ! cords atta*$ to ! ?reads ( ! w>p accord+ to ! patt]n ! weav] is work+4 ,x is said t ! native trade 9 ! f9] brocad$ silks has be5 injur$ ow+ to ! ri*] natives foll[+ ! ,european fa%ion ( dress+ pla9ly1 ! ri* silk wov5 ) gold ?read be+ only worn on /ate occasions1 ano!r in/ance ( ! depress+ influ5ce ( ,we/]n ideas & habits ^u ! ,ea/4 ,! ri* m]*ants1 & ! ,mah>ajahs & _! c\rt (ficials no d\bt believe !y are improv+ _! /yle 9 adopt+ fa%ions f ,europe1 b ! effect is practically only to vulg>ise ! native ta/e4 ,! native pr9ces & ! well-to-d m]*ants n[ da% ab\t 9 import$ motor c>s 9 raim5t ( d+y t9ts1 in/ead ( pr\dly pranc+ ^u /ately elephants & clo!d 9 spl5d\r & col\r4 ,ea/]n life is made less joy\s 9 its aspects by su* *anges4 ,! mass ( ! p d n *ange1 h[ev]1 & seem to h no desire to1 & !y are ! common p ev]y:]e :o give ! *>act]i/ic life & col\r4 ,?\gh !y only we> cotton or musl91 ! beauty & v>iety ( ! t9ts are wond]ful1 & fill ! baza>s ) a /ream ( ev]-*ang+ hues 9 ! mo/ unexpect$ comb9ations & h>monies4 ,driv+ ?r\gh ! baza>s at ,ahm$abad1 we came to a sort ( op5 space f :i* sev]al /reets div]g$1 & "h 0 be+ held a sort ( op5 m>ket ( clo?--*iefly musl9s & cottons ( e v>iety ( col\r & patt]n4 ,^! 7 laid out 9 piles on ! gr\nd1 ! m]*ants squatt+ by _! goods or spread+ !m out to %[ _! cu/om]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,/reet ,,sc5e1 ,,ahm$abad ,,engli% ,,travell]s ,,sket*+ ,,& ,,mak+ ,,pur*ases ,we /opp$ our c>riage1 & got our be>] to br+ u "s ( ! /uffs to look at & to inquire ! prices1 & we 7 soon surr\nd$ by an eag] cr[d ( d>k faces & turban$ heads1 & 7 ne>ly buri$ 9 a ra9b[-t9t$ cl\d ( musl9 & cotton clo?1 amid :i* delib]ate selection became difficult4 ,i not$1 h[ev]1 _m examples ( ! native me?od ( dye+ clo?s 9 patt]ns by ! ty+ & dipp+ me?ods :i* (t5 produce mo/ delightful results1 ! patt]n hav+ a s(t] & m bl5d$ effect ?an ! ord9>y block pr9t+4 ,al?\gh ,man*e/] cottons 7 9 evid5ce1 x 0 pleasant to see t native me?ods 7 n =gott51 & 7 /ill 9 dem&4 ,! native pott]y1 too1 at ,ahm$abad is extremely int]e/+1 ! common =ms are always good1 z inde$ !y are ?r\gh\t ,india4 ,enorm\s e>!n j>s are made "h to hold gra91 or = c>ry+ wat] f ! riv] on ox-c>ts4 ,! ord9>y e>!n wat]-j>1 :i* ! ,h9du wom5 c>ry on _! heads1 resembles ! anci5t ,greek ,hydria 9 =m1 & is s beautiful t x is di/ress+ to see x occasionally sub/itut$ by ! hide\s t9 k]os9e c--ano!r ,european innovation--mu* m difficult to balance "o w\ld ?9k4 ,9 ! /reets ( ,ahm$abad occasional features are small1 ri*ly c>v$ octagonal m9>ets support$ on po/s1 & look+ l glorifi$ pigeon h\ses4 ,!re is a big ,h9du temple--a ,ja9 temple ( no antiquity1 only ab\t ?irty or =ty ye>s old4 ,! %r9e ( ,ha?i ,s+4 ,x has ! *>act]i/ic pagoda domes1 & is elaborately pa9t$ & decorat$1 ?\gh r co>sely4 ,! f9e/ features 7 ! m>ble pavem5ts :]e1 aga91 "o notic$ ! peculi> s(t poli% giv5 by b>e feet4 ,a v int]e/+ excursion is t to ,s>khei1 a drive ( ab\t sev5 miles outside ! city gates4 ,! road crosses ! wide riv] ,s>b>mati--or r its b$1 z ! wat] %r9ks into a r n>r[ /ream1 & is almo/ lo/ sometimes among great /ret*es & banks ( s&4 ,at ! wat]'s edge1 z we pass$1 we saw ! p busy wa%+ clo!s 7:i* made a pretty col\r$ patt]n :5 spread on ! s&s to dry7 or !mselves1 or wat]+ horses & bullocks1 or refre%+ _! baskets ( vegetables !y _h borne along ! du/y ways by dipp+ !m 9 ! /ream4 ,illu/ration3 ,,tomb ,,( ,,gunj ,,bak%1 ,,s>khei ,our road 0 deep 9 du/1 b g5]ally pleasantly %ad$ by f9e old trees1 *iefly banyan1 teak trees1 & acacias4 ,! little /rip$ squirrels 7 v num]\s & active1 frisk+ up & d[n & ar\nd ! tree /ems4 ,monkeys 7 occasionally se5--( ! same silv] grey sort we _h se5 on our visit to ! ,mosque ( ,%ah ,alam--9 ! jungles at ! side ( ! road1 or 9 ! trees4 ,a bird r l a l>ge bullf9* 0 common1 & we saw _m peacocks w&]+ ab\t1 &1 ( c\rse1 kites & cr[s ev]y:]e4 ,on ! road we pass$ _m a heavy-lad5 ox-c>t1 pil$ ) bales ( cotton1 mak+ _! way to ,ahm$abad1 z well z droves ( :ite asses1 & _m gr\ps ( natives4 ,ab\t two miles out we saw at ! side ( ! road a l>ge brick-built ,mohamm$an ,tomb1 said to be ! tomb ( ! ar*itect ( ,s>khei1 :o 0 a ,p]sian4 ,fur!r on our c>riage turn$ out ( ! ma9 road d[n a n>r[ lane to ! "r & up a /eep bit ( hill1 flagg$ ) flat /ones4 ,pres5tly we arriv$ 9 front ( a f9e gateway ( ,moslem ar*itecture1 :i* =m$ ! entrance to a l>ge quadrangle1 %ad$ by a v old acacia tree4 ,we _h to put on ! usual clumsy canvas %oes be=e ent]+ ?is c\rt1 :i* enclos$ ! spl5did mosque & tomb ( ,gunj ,bak% 7begun by ,mahmud%ah 9 #adde & f9i%$ by ,beg>a 9 #adea71 ) a l[1 flat cupola1 & _m pila/]$ front1 ! /ructures ( ! caps %[+ ,h9du influ5ce4 ,!re is a f9ely work$ lattice scre5 ( brass surr\nd+ ! octagonal %r9e )91 conta9+ ! tomb4 ,! floor is inlaid ) col\r$ m>bles1 & ! ro( is ri* ) gild+4 ,an op5 pavilion /ood 9 ! c\rt 9 front ( ! %r9e1 rais$ ^u a plat=m1 ) /eps support$ by sixte5 c>v$ m>ble pill>s4 ,opposite to ?is is a *>m+ portico1 ?r\gh :i* "o c get a glimpse ( ! great tank1 ?\gh x 0 almo/ dri$ up :5 we saw x1 ! wat] h>dly en\gh to conceal an alligator1 ?\gh :ite cranes 7 /&+ 9 ! pool 9 ! =lorn hope ( cat*+ fi%1 & monkeys gamboll$ ab\t ! /eps4 ,on ! side ( ! c\rt ne> ! entrance are ! tombs ( ,mahmud ,beg>a & 8 two sons--( ! usual ,mohamm$an type1 an arcad$ patt]n 9 l[ relief along ! sides2 ) c5s]s hang+ betwe5 ! ar*es ( simil> type to ^? at ,ahm$abad4 ,!re is a pa!tic feel+ ( dep>t$ or half decay$ spl5d\r ab\t ,s>khei1 z well z a s5se ( romance & my/]y1 & "o leaves x impress$ ) ! idea ( ! ref9em5t1 s5se ( beauty1 & spaci\sness ( ! dep>t$ pr9cely build]s :o lie buri$ )9 _! own ar*itectural dream4 ,!re are always a numb] ( hang]s on ab\t ,indian tombs & temples1 self-con/itut$ guides1 & p]sons ( indef9ite /atus & occupation :o clu/] ar\nd ! arriv+ & dep>t+ /rang]1 :o has to smoo? 8 pa? ) back%ee%1 & ,s>khei is no exception4 ,we _h a hot drive along ! dusky highway back to ,ahm$abad 9 ! middle ( ! day1 ! sun blaz+ d[n v fi]cely1 & we 7 glad ( ! protection ( ! c>riage hood4 ,9 ! c\rse ( "o ( our ev5+ drives ab\t ! t[n1 our ,moonsawmy po9t$ out an acacia tree we pass$ by ! roadside :i* appe>$ to be full ( :at look$ l l>ge p5dant pe>-%ap$ fruit ( black & gold5 br[n col\r4 ,^!1 h[ev]1 7 really clu/]s ( fruit-bats hang+ 9 ! tree until nightfall4 ,"s ( !m1 z we look$1 7 already mov+ & /ret*+ out _! w+s 9 ! la/ rays ( ! ev5+ sun4 ,we pass$ ?r\gh ! triple ar*$ anci5t gateway :i* /&s at ! head ( ! ma9 /reet4 ,! baza>s 7 cr[d$ ) buy]s & sell]s1 *iefly ( cotton & o!r /uffs4 ,! p !mselves 9 e v>iety ( co/ume =m$ a wond]ful s*eme ( col\r1 v>i$ by ! br[nsk9s ( babies & little *ildr5 play+ ab\t q nak$1 & ! br[n backs ( ! work]s b5d+ ov] _! crafts4 ,! :ole sc5e fus$ 9 ! light ( aft]gl[ & ri* 9 tone & *i>oscuro4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,ahm$abad ,,to ,,ajmir ,! railway /ation at ,ahm$abad has ! unusual di/9ction ( two /rik+ m9>ets ( brick-"w1 ri*ly cut & m\ld$ 9 successive circul> ti]s1 :i* rise to a consid]able height f amid ! palms & planta9s ( a small well-wat]$ ,ea/]n g>d51 ) _m /raight-cut pa?s betwe5 ! ?ickly plant$ trees4 ,^! are ! rema9s ( a ,mohamm$an mosque :i* once /ood !re4 ,x is an unusually int]e/+ & pleasant place to w&] 9 :ile wait+ = a tra94 ,our be>] secur$ a com=table c\p = our j\rney to ,ajmir1 :i* 0 to be our next halt+-place4 ,we _h orig9ally int5d$ to visit ,m\nt ,abu to see ! wond]ful ,ja9 temples ( ,delw>a1 b be=e we rea*$ ! ,abu road heavy ra9 came on1 & z x w\ld h meant a pony ride ( sixte5 miles f ! /ation to ,m\nt ,abu1 we decid$ to g on to ,ajmir )\t a break4 ,leav+ ,ahm$abad at #h4ae we breakfa/$ 9 ! tra91 !re be+ a re/aurant c> put on4 ,! tra9s n be+ corridor tra9s x is necess>y to get out at ! /opp+ /ations & f9d "o's way to ! c> & back to "o's c>riage aga94 ,! c\ntry at fir/ 0 v flat & g5]ally cultivat$1 b ) occasional belts ( jungle1 :]e monkeys & peacocks 7 se54 ,f9e banyan & acacia trees "h & !re4 ,pl\gh+ ) ox5 0 go+ on1 & ! yoke ( ox5 draw+ at ! irrigation wells 0 a frequ5t sight4 ,ab\t ! middle ( ! day d>k cl\ds roll$ up & we _h a heavy %[] ) promise ( m to come4 ,m\nta9s came into view at ! same "t z ! *ange 9 ! wea!r1 & x 0 n long be=e we rea*$ ,abu ,road ,/ation4 ,! f9e m\nta9 range on ! left ( ! l9e amid :i* ,m\nt ,abu 0 situat$ 0 veil$ 9 cl\d & ra91 b z we left ! m\nta9s ! sky cle>$ aga91 & we ent]$ a flat1 des]t-l region cov]$ ) /unt$ trees or dry scrub bu%1 /ret*+ = miles4 ,a /range-look+ c\ntry 0 aft]w>ds trav]s$1 :]e huge granite b\ld]s lay on ! e>? l m\nds & p>tly ov]gr[n1 o!rs might h be5 imag9$ to be ! %ells ( gigantic tortoises4 ,at a /ation call$ ,mori ?is *>act]i/ic 0 ! mo/ /rik+4 ,! /ations on ?is l9e ?r\gh ,rajpootana 7 built aft] ! ,moslem fa%ion & _h a sup]ficial resemblance to mosques1 be+ dom$1 ! small] build+s & wayside signal huts be+ treat$ 9 ! same mann]4 ,aft] a ra9y sunset ( orange & grey1 d>kness soon fell1 & x 0 n long be=e we rea*$ ,ajmir aft] ab\t twelve h\rs' travel--a di/ance ( ov] ?ree hundr$ miles4 ,we f\nd fairly com=table qu>t]s at ! /ation refre%m5t-rooms1 ! b$rooms be+ above & op5+ on to spaci\s t]races f :i* int]e/+ views ( ! t[n & c\ntry c\ld be _h4 ,! only drawbacks 7 ! noises4 ,:at ) ! %rieks ( ! eng9es1 & ! p]petual conv]sazione c>ri$ on on ! plat=ms1 :i* 7 g5]ally ?rong$ ) mo/ picturesque cr[ds ( natives1 sleep 0 v brok54 ,ajmir is v beautifully situat$1 ) a f9e backgr\nd ( hills1 ! t[n itself be+ on a slope ) an old =t cr[n+ a height imm$iately above x4 ,!re is a l>ge milit>y /ation1 ! cantonm5ts ) ! resid5cy & ! ,engli% bungal[s ly+ on a pla9 q away f ! native t[n4 ,we hir$ a c>riage & drove ar\nd ! t[n ! morn+ aft] our arrival1 visit+ ! old palace & massive =tress built by ! ,emp]or ,akb>1 :o has left s _m noble build+s 9 ! nor?-we/ ( ,india to te/ify to 8 p[] & influ5ce 9 ! pa/4 ,we ent]$ ?r\gh a noble gateway into a l>ge quadrangle surr\nd$ by trem5d\sly high1 ?ick walls & hav+ octagonal ba/ions at f\r corn]s4 ,a pavilion rose 9 ! c5tre ( ! c\rt1 rais$ ^u a plat=m l$ up to by /eps ( m>ble4 ,ext5sive re/orations 7 be+ c>ri$ on "u ! ,indian ,gov]nm5t1 s mu* s t "o _h fe>s !y 7 9 dang] ( go+ too f> 9 ! direction ( r5ewal1 & did n draw ! l9e ) suffici5t decision at ! limits ( pres]vation & repair4 ,c]ta9ly new "w 0 be+ put 9 freely4 ,x 0 int]e/+1 h[ev]1 to see t mo/ beautiful & *>act]i/ic ,indian craft ( pi]c+ patt]ns 9 m>ble be+ c>ri$ on4 ,! native c>v]1 turban$ & grey-be>d$1 0 squatt+ on ! gr\nd busy ) a small m>ble grill or scre54 ,he 0 drill+ a geometric diap] patt]n ?r\gh a panel ( m>ble :i* _h a work$ m\ld+ = frame4 ,! slab 0 b$d$ 9 clay to keep x f "u ! work]'s h&s1 & to prev5t splitt+4 ,:5 ! holes 7 drill$ he f9i%$ ! "w ) *isels & mallet1 work+ out ! diff]5t bevels & facets ( ! quatre-foils1 & putt+ 9 ! "w t :i* gave all ! ri*ness & ! effect ( ! patt]n4 ,he seem$ pleas$ to h 8 "w notic$1 & anxi\s t we %\ld see x 9 its f9i%$ /ate he w5t to :]e a gr\p ( native wom5 7 at "w on o!r simil> grills :i* _h left ! c>v]'s h&s1 clean+ ! pi]c$ patt]ns f ! clay1 & %[$ ! complet$ panels cle> cut 9 ! :ite m>ble4 ,x 0 noticeable t ! wom5 only did ! clean+ & poli%+ up1 b n ! c>v+4 ,we _h a f9e view f ! ramp>ts & m9>ets ( ! pavilion4 ,f ! =t we w5t on driv+ ?r\gh ! baza>s ( ,ajmir1 :i* 7 highly int]e/+ b less busy & cr[d$1 p]haps1 ?an at ,ahm$abad4 ,gay col\r$ cottons & musl9s1 embroid]$ slipp]s1 pott]y1 & gra9 ( all k9ds 7 mo/ly 9 evid5ce1 ! latt] arrang$ 9 heaps on clo?s spread on ! gr\nd 9 front ( ! %ops1 & measur$ out by ! trad]s squatt+ by _! m]*&ise4 ,! fronts ( ! native h\ses "h 7 mo/ly 9 :ite pla/]1 (t5 pa9t$ ) designs 9 blue & yell[ ( =mal fl[]s 9 vases1 or qua9t animals & figures 9 pr(ile4 ,!re 0 mu* fancy & v>iety 9 ! design ( ! little arcad$ project+ balconies corbell$ out f ! wall1 & ogee ar*$ w9d[s1 & m\ld$ pla/] & pa9t$ ornam5t4 ,we pres5tly1 at ! end ( ! pr9cipal /reet1 approa*$ ! magnific5t d\ble gateway ( ! fam\s ,d>gah--nam$ ! ,dilka%a 7or 8he>t-exp&+07 gate4 ,f ! /reet "o really sees ?ree ogee ar*es ( diff]5t heights 9 succession1 "o beyond ! o!r1 ! highe/ be+ flank$ by t[]+ m9>ets cr[n$ ) cupolas4 ,! :ole gateway 9 ! bright morn+ sunlight look$ a fairy-l a]ial /ructure1 fair & :ite1 & glitt]+ "h & !re ) gold1 & tile patt]ns 9 blue & yell[4 ,! ,d>gah ( ,ajmir is rev]$ z ! burial-place ( "o ,kwaja ,sahib1 a sa9t ( ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,8 beautiful :ite & gold dom$ %r9e enclos+ 8 silv] tomb occupies ! c5tre ( ! inn] c\rt1 & is visit$ by troops ( pilgrims4 ,a great fe/ival is held 9 hon\r ( ! sa9t e ye>1 :5 ,ajmir is ?rong$ ) pilgrims4 ,two enorm\s iron pots are %[n1 /&+ ea* side ! entrance to ! ,d>gah1 9 :i* at ! fe/ival are cook$ tons ( food freely giv5 to ! pilgrims4 ,! bigge/ pot is reput$ to hold no less ?an #aj1jjj lbs4 ( food4 ,! food consi/s ( mess ( rice1 oil1 sug>1 rais9s1 & almonds1 :i* is r sugge/ive ( a sort ( plum pudd+1 & on ?is scale co/s ab\t #ajj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,%r9e ,,( ,,! ,,kwaja1 ,,ajmir ,on fir/ ent]+ ! ,d>gah ?r\gh ! great gateway "o sees a l>ge pav$ c\rt ) sev]al dom$ tombs & a mosque1 & ris+ high ! old =t ( ,t>rg>h1 :ite-wall$ on ! br[n hill1 is se5 above4 ,i not$ a v f9e bronze _m-bran*$ c&elabra on "o ( ! dom$ tombs4 ,pass+ ?r\gh ?is c\rt ! second c\rt is ent]$ :]e /&s ! %r9e4 ,x is surr\nd$ by a l[ m>ble balu/rade1 & is picturesquely ov]%ad[$ by a l>ge anci5t ilex tree1 ?r\gh ! spread+ bran*es ( :i* ) _! masses ( ri* d>k foliage gl[s ! col\r & gold ( ! ri*ly decorat$ %r9e4 ,?r\gh ! op5 doors gleam ! silv] ( ! tomb1 & ! ivory-l dome frett$ & cre/$ ) gold sp>kl+ 9 ! full light ( ! sun pi]ces ! deep blue sky4 ,curi\s l[ tap]+ p$e/als ) small cupolas at ! top are plac$ ab\t ! c\rts & ar\nd ! %r9e at int]vals4 ,^! are pi]c$ ) small recesses1 9 :i*1 on fe/ival occasions1 small lamps are plac$4 ,beyond ! %r9e we come out ^u a high-wall$ t]race :i* ext5ds ) a succession ( bays along ! sides ( a deep n>r[ tank1 flights ( /eps lead+ d[n to ! wat]'s edge at diff]5t po9ts4 ,x is ! cu/om :5 visitors leave ! ,d>gah = ! att5dants to hang g>l&s ( fl[]s ab\t _! necks1 & 9 return = ?is graceful att5tion an (f]+ to ! %r9e--or to its hang]s on--is expect$4 ,! visitor is1 h[ev]1 r c>efully wat*$ inside ! ,d>gah4 ,! %r9e itself is n all[$ to be ent]$4 ,%oes mu/ be remov$ on ent]+ ! c\rt1 or ! big canvas %oes put on ov] !m4 ,on sket*+ int5t ,i 0 n all[$ to pit* a camp /ool ne> ! %r9e or 9 ! sacr$ prec9cts1 & ev5 op5 umbrellas1 = %ade1 7 object$ to by ^! jeal\s wat*ful devotees4 ,f ! ,d>gah we w5t to see ! ro(less mosque ( 8,arhai-d9-ka-,jhonpra10 :i* be+ int]pret$ signifies 8,! h\se ( two & a half days40 ,x is on ! hill opposite ! =t1 b on ! l[] slope1 & is approa*$ ?r\gh n>r[ /reets1 & f9ally rea*$ by a /eep flight ( /eps :i* lead to ! gateway ( ! c\rt ( ! mosque4 ,x is n[ little m ?an a beautiful r$ s&/one c>v$ scre5 ( op5 po9t$ ar*es1 b ! detail is exce$+ly ri* & happy 9 scale1 & l>gely consi/s ( bord]+ inscriptions outl9+ ! ar*es & _! rectangul> fram+s1 ! texts be+ 9 bo? ,cufic & ,togra *>act]s1 & bo? ^! & ! surface decoration g5]ally are delicately b %>ply cut 9 sunk c>v+1 :i* pres]ves a c]ta9 unity ( ornam5tal effect4 ,arrang$ along ! side ( ! c\rt are _m c>v$ fragm5ts :i* are ! rema9s ( ! ,ja9 ,temple1 trans=m$ into ! ,mussulman ,mosque 9 ! ye> #abcf by ,altama%1 :o conqu]$ ! city1 & 0 said to h effect$ ! trans=mation 9 two & a half days4 ,! mosque 0 n us$ = wor%ip4 ,9 ! c\rt a rope or cord mak] 0 at "w4 ,! :ite /r&s /ret*$ ov] canes f ! man work+ at "o end ( ! walk to :]e at ! o!r end 8 assi/ant sat at a sort ( :eel by means ( :i* ! /r&s 7 twi/$ into a cord ( ! requir$ ?ickness4 ,aft] ?is we drove to ! ,daulat ,bagh 7,g>d5 ( spl5d\r7--!n pass+ ?r\gh a beautiful p>k full ( p9e-trees we came to ! :ite m>ble pavilion built by ,%ah ,jehan1 /&+ on a m>ble balu/rad$ t]race1 & ov]look+ a lovely lake1 b\nd$ by m\nta9s--a lovely spot4 ,! pavilion has be5 re/or$ by ! ,indian gov]nm5t1 & looks q new4 ,m>ble1 h[ev]1 does n seem to wea!r or discol\r 9 ! ,indian climate1 & ! diff]5ce betwe5 new & old is n ne>ly s m>k$ z 9 ,european c\ntries1 :ile ! imitative faculty ( ! ,h9du workman & ! traditions ( craftsman%ip "u :i* he /ill works help to complete ! illusion :5 re/oration is done4 ,new or old1 x 0 an en*ant+ place1 especially :5 ! ev5+ sun floods ! :ole sc5e ) gold5 light1 /ream+ ?r\gh ! trees1 & fill+ ! m>ble porticoes ) w>m col\r4 ,! lake /ill z a mirror1 reflect+ ! fairy palace & ! dreamy di/ance 9 its glassy surface4 ,! *ief commission] %\ld be happy to h 8 resid5ce 9 ! mid/ ( ?is lovely g>d54 ,! lake is z useful too z x is beautiful1 z f x is obta9$ ! wat] supply ( ,ajmir4 ,ano!r ( our ev5+ drives 0 ?r\gh ! cantonm5ts outside ! native city4 ,we pass$ ?r\gh ! ,engli% milit>y qu>t]s1 & saw ! long l[ b>rack-l bungal[s ( ! soldi]s1 clean & neat1 b b>e & ugly4 ,!re 7 m com=table bungal[s ( ! (fic]s & o!r ,engli% resid5ts 9 g>d5s & amid trees1 ) entrance gates & drives1 almo/ suburban1 all[+ = little diff]5ces 9 detail4 ,! names ( ! resid5ts1 = in/ance1 7 pa9t$ 9 :ite block-lett]s on ugly black bo>ds plac$ outside ! gates ( ! g>d5s4 ,!re 0 ! usual club h\se 9 a l&scape g>d51 & "h a milit>y b& ( native infantry 0 play+1 conduct$ by a man 9 a /raw hat4 ,engli% ladies1 & *ildr5 ) _! native aejahs & be>]s scatt]$ ab\t ! lawns4 ,on ! road a little di/ance f ! t[n a l>ge numb] ( natives 7 busy mak+ up ! road ov] a new bridge across ! railway4 ,_m ( ^! coolies 7 v att5uat$1 & might h come f ! fam9e di/ricts4 ,pass+ ?r\gh ! baza> on my return f sket*+ 9 ! ,d>gah1 ,i notic$ among ! /alls ( a cr[d$ & picturesque native /reet a craftsman at "w putt+ a bord] patt]n ^u ! edge ( a piece ( orange-col\r$ musl94 ,he fir/ pr9t$ or /amp$ ! bord]1 a small leaf & fl[] patt]n1 f a wood block ) "s sort ( size ( a br[n col\r1 & :5 ?is 0 suffici5tly 8tacky0 he laid on silv] leaf ov] ! patt]n ?us def9$ by ! block 9 size1 & f9i%$ by bru%+ away ! sup]flu\s leaf ) a s(t bru%1 mu* z our gild]s d4 ,a qua9t effect 0 produc$ by ! camels "h1 lad5 ) great %eafs ( sug>-cane1 :i* trail$ beh9d1 spread+ out ov] _! h9d qu>t]s 9 a way t sugge/$ skirts or a cr9ol9e--view$ f beh9d4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,camel',s ,,cr9ol9e 7,,sug> ,,cane7 ,,ajmir ,f our t]race ov] ! railway /ation we c\ld obs]ve ! v>i$ gr\ps ( natives :i* cont9ually ?rong$ ! plat=ms & ! y>ds outside4 ,c]ta9ly ! native 9 ,india makes con/ant use ( ! railways1 al?\gh ! railways d n take any tr\ble to make !m com=table4 ,! native c>riages seem always 9 an ov]cr[d$ /ate1 & _m ( !m are r sugge/ive ( cattle trucks ) r\gh wood5 p>titions4 ,tr\ps ( natives w come to a railway /ation & camp all night wait+ = "s tra9 9 ! morn+4 ,on inquir+ :at classes or mann] ( p ^! poor travell]s mo/ly 71 ,i 0 told t !y compris$ *iefly pilgrims to v>i\s %r9es & fe/ivals 9 diff]5t p>ts ( ! c\ntry1 & small trad]s4 ,! ,ryot1 or agriculturi/1 did n travel mu*1 z might be suppos$4 ,! p usually bore great bundles ) !m1 b$d+ presumably1 & o!r necess>ies = long j\rneys4 ,^! ! wom5 c>ri$ ^u _! heads4 ,9 ! ev5+s gr\ps ( natives w\ld be se5 ga!r$ r\nd fires made on ! gr\nd4 ,^! 7 (t5 m]e fl>es ( /raw1 & did n la/ v long1 ?\gh !y may h s]v$ to mitigate ! *ill ( ! nightfall1 :i* is always s sudd5 9 ,india4 ,z evid5ce ( ! extraord9>y v>iety ( col\r arrangem5ts 9 ! co/ume ( ! natives 9 ! baza>s1 "h are a few notes made ( ! col\rs worn by pass]s-by1 bo? m5 & wom51 at ,ajmir obs]v$ 9 ! c\rse ( a few m9utes4 #a4 ,citron tunic1 em]ald gre5 turban1 :ite tr\s]s4 #b4 ,buff turban black tunic1 :ite tr\s]s4 #c4 7,woman47 ,l>ge v]milion cloak1 p9k skirt4 #d4 ,pea gre5 turban1 crimson velvet tunic1 :ite tr\s]s4 #e4 ,orange turban1 black tunic1 :ite tr\s]s4 #f4 ,:ite turban1 w\nd r\nd a r$ fez1 deep br[n orange cloak ?r[n ov] br[n jacket & :ite bree*es4 #g4 ,orange musl9 simply cov]+ head & body1 sc>let tr\s]s4 7,mohamm$an woman47 #h4 ,turquoise turban1 gold5 orange tunic 7long7 l9$ ) pale yell[4 ,! agricultural c\ntry folks g5]ally wore :ite1 ?\gh x 0 r a dusky :ite4 ,gr\ps ( h]dsm5 7 occasionally se5 ) long /raight w&s1 _! d>k faces & b>e limbs em]g+ f :ite cotton turbans1 tunics & cloaks4 ,travell]s 9 ,india z well z ,engli% resid5ts are (t5 greet$ ) salaams 9 ! native baza>s & pass]s-by on ! road4 ,! ^w 8salaam0 is pron\nc$ by natives sometimes 9 a tone almo/ ( comm&1 b z f> z ,i c\ld und]/& x 0 int5d$ to sugge/ a mutual ex*ange ( salutations1 or ev5 ! ^w alone might be tak5 z a salutation sometimes2 b x is always expect$ t an answ]+ salute ( "s k9d w be giv51 b x is said t "o %\ld nev] salute ) ! left h& if x is wi%$ to avoid (f5ce4 ,! ord9>y mode ( salutation 9 any c\ntry %\ld be c>efully obs]v$1 z 9 no way c (f5ce be m easily giv51 h[ev] inadv]t5tly1 by any app>5t neglect ( :at are consid]$ ! ord9>y c\rtesies ( life sanction$ by ! cu/oms ( a c\ntry4 ,x is true t ! native *ildr5 seem$ sometimes incl9$ to mock at a /rang]1 9 a _s ( monkey mis*ief1 p]haps1 b !re are little /reet gam9s 9 any city1 & ! late/ product ( our civilisation1 ! ,london /reet arab1 w\ld be difficult to beat any:]e1 ,ea/ or ,we/4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,*itorg>h ,,& ,,udaipur ,f ,ajmir !re is a bran* l9e to ,*itorg>h & ,udaipur1 & no travell] 9 ,india %\ld miss ! opportunity ( visit+ bo? ^! highly int]e/+ places4 ,leav+ ,ajmir1 ! railway runs s\? ?r\gh a r flat c\ntry1 pass+ ,naisirabad1 an important ,briti% milit>y /ation4 ,! ,engli% 8,tommy0 9 khaki1 & :ite helmet & putties1 or ! sun-burn$1 br[n-boot$ & spurr$ ,briti% cavalry (fic]1 7 9 evid5ce at ! railway /ation4 ,among ! native cr[d "h we saw a turban$ man 9 p9k c>ry+ a v ?91 ag$ woman1 probably 8 "m1 pick-a-back fa%ion4 ,a v dry & almo/ des]t tract ( c\ntry is trav]s$ aft] ?is1 ?\gh occasionally v>i$ by irrigat$ fields & gre5 crops4 ,! irrigation wells1 work$ by ox5 z be=e1 & ! native pl\gh+1 7 ! *ief incid5ts 9 ! l&scape4 ,! pl\gh is a v primitive-look+ implem5t ) a s+le %aft1 ) a cross h&le fix$ at "r angles to ! %aft1 :i* consi/s ( a %>p5$ piece ( wood1 tipp$ ) iron4 ,! pl\gh is drawn by a pair ( zebus1 & is light en\gh = ! man to lift up & turn at ! end ( ! furr[1 or ev5 to be c>ri$ home on 8 %\ld] at ! end ( ! day4 ,!re 7 ?ick h$ges ( spikey sort ( cactus1 bran*+ out f a ma9 /em1 some?+ l c&elabra1 ! fronds gr[+ 9 a longitud9al1 rigid =m4 ,^! h$ges f5c$ ! railway l9e f ! fields on ! des]t4 ,ano!r plant ( common occurr5ce1 bo? "h & all ov] ,india1 0 a broad-leav$ %rub ( symmetric ord]1 hav+ small1 pale1 lilac fl[]s1 ! /ems r a yell[1 & ! leaves a lighti% blue gre54 ,we not$ also a sort ( wild laburnam4 ,! prickly pe> 0 common1 & a sort ( prickly acacia-l %rub mu* lik$ by camels4 ,! trees 7 mo/ly v>i\s acacias1 ! banyan tree 7,ficus71 & ! teak4 ,9 places we saw bo? date & cocoa palms4 ,at "o /ation 7,m&al7 ! level pla9s1 ) pyramidal hills 9 ! di/ance & a grove ( palms & camels 9 ! =egr\nd1 aga9 recall$ ,egypt4 ,! cultivat$ crops we pass$ 7 cotton1 tobacco1 rice1 :eat1 & sug> cane4 ,at e /ation may be se5 ! wat] filt]1 a wood5 tripod /&1 hold+ ?ree r$ e>!n wat]-j>s1 "o above ! o!r4 ,! natives dr9k quantities ( wat]1 & always c>ry a small dr9k+-vessel ( bright brass1 :i* !y take e opportunity ( fill+4 ,! wat]-be>] is a *>act]i/ic figure ev]y:]e1 & comes up to ! tra9 ) 8 cry1 8,panee6 panee60 :i* 7) an ,italian prepossess$ e>7 is m sugge/ive ( ano!r1 & solid1 necess>y ( life4 ,bread1 h[ev]1 9 ,h9du/anee1 happ5s to be 8roti40 ,hav+ left ,ajmir by ! #i4bj ,a4,m4 tra91 we arriv$ at ,*itorg>h ab\t five 9 ! ev5+1 & put up at ! /ation rooms = ! night4 ,!re 0 a consid]able cr[d on ! long1 op51 gravell$ plat=m1 ma9ly natives1 ) a small cont+5t ( ,engli% & ,am]ican t\ri/s4 ,european t\ri/s 9 ,india1 h[ev]1 7 g5]ally few & f> betwe51 ! ,unit$ ,/ates be+ mu* m num]\sly repres5t$4 ,a picturesque gr\p 0 =m$ by a native resid5t f ,udaipur1 ) 8 ret9ue1 wait+ = _! tra9 on4 ,! *ief 0 a v5]able & a k9dly-look+ man1 ) :ite hair & be>d1 rem9d+ "o r ( ! late ,g4 ,f4 ,watts4 ,he 0 gaily dress$ 9 a p9k turban & a lilac silk coat1 & 0 seat$ on a *air on ! plat=m1 surr\nd$ by 8 att5dants 9 sc>let2 among ^! 0 8 trumpet]1 ) a bugle slung ar\nd him1 & a quad ( f\r soldi]s 9 khaki & turbans4 ,we f\nd ! ,travell]'s ,bungal[ 0 ab\t ?ree-qu>t]s ( a mile or s away f ! /ation4 ,! b$rooms 7 all tak5 by ! ,engli% & ,am]ican p>ties1 b we c\ld fe$ !re1 s1 reta9+ our qu>t]s at ! /ation1 we walk$ to ! ,bungal[ = our d9n]4 ,x 0 a lovely moonlight night1 ) bright />s1 b !re 0 a cold nor? w9d z we 7 guid$ by our be>] ) a lant]n along a r r\gh track1 & cross$ ! railway to ! ,bungal[1 a new /one build+1 b>e & *e]less z !y make !m1 /&+ all by itself 9 a /oney y>d )\t a tree ne> x4 ,! d9n]1 or supp]1 0 n v rew>d+1 & we trudg$ back aga9 to ! /ation 9 ! cold moonlight4 ,! /ation we f\nd quiet] ?an usual4 ,! s]vants ( ! resid5t _h encamp$ ^u ! plat=m1 & =m$ picturesque gr\ps ar\nd fires1 cook+ & gossip+2 _! ma/] sleep+ 9 ! tra91 :i* 0 drawn up ready to />t = ,udaipur e>ly ! next morn+4 ,x seems highly necess>y = travell]s 9 ,india any:]e (f ! track ( hotels to provide !mselves ) b$d+ ( "s sort1 at lea/ quilts1 rugs1 %eets1 & pill[s4 ,! nights at ?is "t ( ye> 9 ,rajpootana are q cold1 & w>m wraps are welcome4 ,! next morn+ we engag$ a l>ge elephant--:i* wait$ at ! /ation to take travell]s to ,*itorg>h--to c>ry u to ! =t & des]t$ city on ! height we c\ld see f ! /ation4 ,?is 0 a di/ance ( "s sev5 miles !re & back1 x 0 said4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fir/ ,,elephant ,,ride4 7,,*itorg>h7 ,! elephant 0 made by ! driv] to kneel :ile we m\nt$1 by means ( a ladd] ( bamboo1 & seat$ ourselves on ! flat1 cu%ion$ seat1 hav+ a l[ h&-rail & a foot bo>d1 slung by ropes4 ,! elephant mov$ ) a peculi> sway+1 sw++ movem5t1 n unlike t ( a %ip1 ?\gh regul>4 ,we />t$ ov] a /ret* ( r\gh1 common-l gr\nd1 brok5 into hillocks & holl[s1 ov]gr[n ) scrub bu%1 ! track n be+ v def9ite4 ,! elephant pick$ its way mo/ c>efully ov] ! r\gh p>ts1 especially :5 desc5d+ a holl[4 ,we rea*$ a roadway :i* l$ ov] a bridge across a riv]1 & br\ght u up to ! city ( ,*itor at ! foot ( ! hill1 & ext5d+ ^u its l[] slopes4 ,we ent]$ ! city ?r\gh a ,moslem ar*$ gateway1 & ?read$ our way ?r\gh ! n>r[ /reets1 our elephant fill+ ! :ole ( ! roadway4 ,pott]y1 beads1 glass bracelets1 *eap lacqu]$ ornam5ts1 & small m]*&ise ( v>i\s k9ds 7 spread out on ! gr\nd1 _! proprietors squatt+ by _! /ock 9 trade4 ,! native h\ses 7 small & l[1 = ! mo/ "p h>dly m ?an huts ( mud1 ro($ ) sun-bak$ tiles1 laid scalewise ov] a trellis ( bamboo1 (t5 v dilapidat$4 ,!re 7 rema9s ( bett] h\ses & old]1 ) arcad$ balconies1 & "h & !re we pass$ a small :ite-wa%$ temple1 ) qua9t elephants ) gay h\s+s pa9t$ 9 pr(ile on ! :ite walls ea* side ! entrance4 ,^! elephants are drawn 9 a v spirit$ mann]1 & are g5]ally repres5t$ go+ at a trot1 & full ( action ) trunk & tail 9 ! air1 decorat$ ) bells on 8 feet & gorge\s r$ & yell[ h\s+s & dom$ h[dah1 set (f by ! solid black ( ! elephant & 8 ivory tusks1 ! turban$ driv] fl\ri%+ 8 goad4 ,f our comm&+ em95ce1 ! elephant's back1 we c\ld take a compreh5sive survey ( ! life ( ! city1 & see ! p at "w at v>i\s trades4 ,! inhabitants did n take mu* notice ( u2 "s w\ld />e & o!rs w\ld salaam z we pass$4 ,i imag9e ! elephant ) ,european travell]s on its back n infrequ5tly pass$ ?r\gh ,*itor1 al?\gh we manag$ to />tle a te!r$ camel 9 "o ( ! /reets consid]ably1 & ! animal tugg$ at its rope & plung$ al>m+ly at ! sight ( our elephant4 ,leav+ ! city ( ,*itor1 :i* seem$ v pov]ty-/rick51 we rea*$ ! fir/ gate ( ! =tress1 & began ! asc5t ( "s #bjj or #cjj feet4 ,! road zigzags up ! side ( ! rocky plateau1 ^u ! summit ( :i* ! =t & anci5t city 7 built1 ! anci5t capital ( ,rajpootana4 ,massive walls protect ?is road on ! out] side1 & a cont9u\s w>d]'s walk runs along x1 ) flights ( /one /eps to ! roadway at int]vals4 ,we pass$ ?r\gh five gateways on ! way up1 g5]ally enri*$ ) sculptur$ ornam5t--! la/ "o1 ,ram ,pol1 be+ ! ri*e/1 & ?is 0 f9ely c>v$ ) ,h9du detail & symbols1 hav+ friezes ( elephants4 ,!re h be5 ext5sive re/orations at ,*itorg>h4 ,! :ole l5g? ( ! wall seems to h be5 gone ov]1 & repla/]$1 & 9 _m places rebuilt ) new /one4 ,! tops ( ! gates 7 cr5ellat$ 9 a fa%ion :i* sugge/$ a p]petuation 9 /one ( an e>li] type ( wood5 palisad+1 a horizontal b& connect+ ! r\nd$ or po9t$ /one heads1 ! divisions betwe5 ea* be+ cont9u$ bel[ x4 ,9 _m cases ! old massive wood5 gates 7 left "u ! ar*ways1 b\nd ) old iron b&s4 ,by ! way1 at ,ajmir we not$ t ! wood5 doors ( ! gateways to ! c\rts 7 cov]$ ) old horse-%oes nail$ on1 close toge!r1 9 "s in/ances actually ov] ! old ri* c>v$ "w1 & app>5tly ) ! same idea ( good om5 z is associat$ ) ! same emblem 9 our c\ntry4 ,arriv$ at ! summit !re 7 wond]ful ru9s to be se54 ,scatt]$ ov] ! plateau1 half ov]gr[n1 amid heaps ( %att]$ /ones & c>v$ fragm5ts1 !re 7 ! rema9s ( ,mohamm$an palaces & ,h9du or ,ja9 ,temples1 ri* )9 & )\t ) intricate c>v+4 ,! guides %[$ u :]e ! ,h9du ,que5 & ! wom5 ( ! city1 all suffocat$ !mselves 9 a subt]ranean *amb] to escape _! fate _h !y fall5 into ! h&s ( ! ,mohamm$an conqu]ors1 :5 ,ala-ud-d9 took ,*itor by /orm 9 #abij4 ,! h& ( ! re/or] 0 se5 "h aga9 & _h be5 9 "s p>ts r too ?or\gh4 ,i notic$ an arcade ov] ! gateway ( ! ,moslem ,palace1 :i* seem$ to h be5 entirely rebuilt 9 a k9d ( pale gre5 m>ble1 almo/ ! col\r ( jade1 q %>ply cut & new1 & out ( keep+ ) ! old "w m or less batt]$ & ru9$ ar\nd x4 ,! fam\s ,t[] ( ,victory _h be5 ext5sively re/or$1 ev5 ! c>v+ 9 p>ts recut4 ,?is is go+ too f>1 z x is impossible to unite mod]n workman%ip ) old1 ev5 9 ,india4 ,wat*ful & c>eful1 timely repair is ! only way to pres]ve anci5t build+s1 b !re %\ld be no attempt made to replace lo/ c>v+ & decoration by mod]n imitation4 ,we ent]$ ov] brok5 /eps a wond]ful ,ja9 temple1 v ri*ly c>v$1 ) a rem>kable dom$ ceil+ ov] ! c5tral *amb]1 arrang$ 9 a s]ies ( conc5tric circles1 int]sect$ by figures ( danc+ girls1 ) emblems radiat+ f ! c5tre4 ,ano!r ,ja9 temple =m$ a mo/ picturesque pile1 & a delightful mass ( light & %ade fill$ 9 ) intricate detail1 9 ! full sunlight4 ,9 ^! temples a fav\rite deity is ,gane%a1 ! elephant-head$ god1 ^: c>v$ image con/antly appe>s4 ,9 "o "p ( ! anci5t city we came ^u "s natives prep>+ cotton y>n = h&-weav+4 ,! y>n 0 /ret*$ 9 long l5g?s across horizontal canes support$ by v]tical ones4 ,!y seem$ to be clean+ ! ?reads ) combs & bru%es4 ,! little black-bri/l$ h&-bru%es plac$ on ! top ( ! turban$ heads :5 n 9 use _h a v qua9t effect4 ,hav+ explor$ ! ru9s ( ,*itorg>h1 we rem\nt$ our good elephant1 :i* wait$ = u1 & desc5d$1 mov+ r jolt+ly d[n ! long hill1 & fright5+ a pony & a camel te!r$ 9 ! ma9 /reet ( ,*itor4 ,! sun 0 n[ blaz+1 x be+ noontide1 ?\gh temp]$ by ! /ill cool w9d f ! nor?1 :i* we _h f\nd really cold 9 ! morn+4 ,return+ ! way we _h come to our qu>t]s at ! /ation1 aft] tak+ tiff9 at ! bungal[ we arrang$ to g on to ,udaipur 9 ! morn+1 & 7 advis$ to sleep 9 ! tra91 :i* wait$ 9 ! /ation all night1 & left at #f4bj ,a4,m4 = ,udaipur4 ,s we pack$ up & w5t on bo>d & took our b]?s1 :i* 7 on ! :ole m com=table ?an ! /ation b$s4 ,9 ! morn+ our comp>tm5t 0 invad$ by a "y ,indian :o want$ a seat1 b we _h kept x to ourselves dur+ ! night1 :i* 0 cold en\gh1 & we 7 glad ( all our wraps4 ,! "y ,indian 0 a pleasant1 bright1 & intellig5t "y fell[ :o spoke ,engli% well1 well clad 9 ! /yle ( a native g5tleman1 ) pl5ty ( wraps & ov]coats4 ,he 0 obvi\sly curi\s ab\t u1 & want$ to "k all we w\ld tell him4 ,he seem$ to h a great wi% to see ,london1 & ask$ u ab\t ! co/ ( liv+ !re1 & :e!r a ,h9du c\ld live !re accord+ to 8 religion )\t meat4 ,he describ$ ,india z 8a poor c\ntry10 & wond]$ t we %\ld j\rney s f> to see x4 ,he 0 b\nd = "s t[n :]e 8 fa!r liv$1 sixty miles by tonga f ,udaipur1 be+ "u ord]s n to /op at ! latt] place1 z 8 fa!r _h told him !re 0 plague !re1 & wi%$ him to come on4 ,! tra9 pass$ ?r\gh a v flat & r *e]less c\ntry1 exce$+ly dry1 & = ! mo/ "p cov]$ ) long jungle grass1 b v>i$ "h & !re by gre5 crops "u irrigation4 ,camels 7 occasionally se51 g5]ally ridd5 by two m52 also !re 7 _m h]ds ( ox5 & buffaloes4 ,z usual1 !re 7 _m int]e/+ types & gr\ps to be obs]v$ at ! /ations4 ,approa*+ ,udaipur1 ! c\ntry broke into hills & became m int]e/+4 ,we rea*$ ,udaipur ,/ation ab\t #aa4cj1 & bidd+ good-bye & ex*ang+ c>ds ) ! "y ,h9du1 we p>t$ ) our baggage into a little op5 c>t call$ a 8tum-tum10 & 7 driv5 "s di/ance1 along a du/y road1 to ! ,udaipur ,hotel1 :i* look$ l an exp&$ bungal[ ) a second /orey add$ on4 ,"h we f\nd pleasant qu>t]s & dec5t b$s4 ,at ! table-d'hte !re 0 a r frigid ,anglo-,indian family1 a colonel on a t\r ( (ficial inspection & 8 secret>y & _! ladies2 also a voluble ,am]ican lady1 :om we _h se5 at ,ajmir1 & a r l(ty & sup]ior ,engli% milit>y man & 8 wife1 :o1 we 7 aft]w>ds in=m$1 7 ! gue/s ( ! ,mah>ajah4 ,9 meet+ "o's compatriots abo>d or inde$ any:]e )\t an introduction "o is rem9d$ by _! mann] /rongly ( ! ,ox=d ,don :o c\ld n d any?+ to save an un=tunate und]graduate f dr[n+ because 8he _h n be5 introduc$40 ,"h1 9 a remote "p ( ,india1 *ance _h ?r[n half-a-doz5 ,engli% p toge!r at ! same table1 & yet !y w\ld h>dly speak to ea* o!r1 t is to say to any new-com] outside _! own p>ty4 ,no?+1 h[ev]1 daunts ! ,am]ican travell]1 especially ! ,am]ican lady4 ,%e ignores ! social ice1 or if %e p]ceives x %e boldly breaks x ) a hat*et1 z x 71 ru%+ 9 "u ! guns ( ! mo/ frigid & unapproa*able p]sonalities ) a *e]ful & p]si/5t fire ( conv]sation1 popp+ 9 lead+ que/ions ) ! mo/ artless & *ildlike confid5ce4 ,?is mode ( attack g5]ally succe$s1 too1 app>5tly4 ,i h se5 sev]e ,engli% (ficial & milit>y-look+ m51 aft] "s %[ ( resi/ance1 unconditionally surr5d]1 & pres5tly empty _! intellectual pockets on ! dem& ( ^! light-he>t$1 table-d'hte1 globe-trott+ inquisitors4 ,a picturesque feature ( hotel life 9 ,india is ! impromptu baza> =m$ "u ! arcade1 :i* always %ades ! rooms on ! gr\nd floor1 by ! travell+ m]*ants1 :o spread out _! w>es to tempt ! travell]4 ,9 ,rajpootana1 ! l& ( w>riors1 collections ( arms1 swords1 sword-/icks1 knives & dagg]s1 & fe>some & wond]ful blades ( all sorts =m a conspicu\s "p ( ! /ock-9-trade ( ^! native m]*ants1 ! glitt]+ /eel mak+ a brave %[ ) ! bright-col\r$ /uffs1 jewell]y1 & embroid]ies4 ,at ,udaipur !y (f]$ also native pictures1 pa9t$ 9 temp]a1 some:at crude b di/9ctly decorative1 & complete ) pa9t$ bord]s or frames4 ,!y repres5t$ elephants1 tig]s1 mah>ajahs sabr+ wild sw9e1 & su*-l1 pa9t$ 9 pr(ile 9 frank flat col\rs1 ! animals s+ul>ly fai?ful 9 silh\ette to nature4 ,9 deal+ ) ^! travell+ trad]s1 b>ga9+ is1 ( c\rse1 expect$1 & usually !y are will+ to accept ab\t half ! price orig9ally ask$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,rajputs ,,& ,,_! ,,r>ities4 7,,udaipur7 ,an impressive sight at ,udaipur is ! place ( tombs1 or ! burn+-place1 :i* is a beautiful g>d5 surr\nd$ by a high wall1 full ( magnific5t dom$ tombs & c5otaphs4 ,?is is ! place :]e ! ,k+s ( ,udaipur1 s9ce x became ! capital ( ,rajpootana1 h be5 buri$1 or r cremat$1 ) _! wives4 ,! city ( ,udaipur--a glimpse ( :i*1 ) its cr5ellat$ walls & ! huge pile ( ! ,mah>ajah's palace ris+ above ! trees1 is se5 f ! hotel--is ent]$1 aft] a %ort drive ?r\gh a f9e d\ble gateway4 ,a huge old mango tree gr[s ov] ! /reet j inside4 ,udaipur is a :ite t[n2 ! /reets are v picturesque1 hav+ arcad$ baza>s & pretty fanta/ic balconies "h & !re1 & ! native life is ( c\rse v v>i$ & full ( col\r4 ,! ma9 /reet rises up to ! em95ce on :i* ! palace /&s4 ,at an angle be=e ?is is rea*$1 a /eep flight ( :ite /eps leads up to ! gate ( ! c\rt ( ! great temple ( ,jugg]na?--a ,ja9 temple d$icat$ to ,vi%nu--! second p]son 9 ! ,h9du ,tr9ity4 ,x 0 ! f9e/ ( its k9d we h yet se54 ,we 7 all[$ to walk ar\nd ! c\rt & exam9e ! c>v+s1 b n inside ! temple4 ,two great /one elephants /& fac+ "o ano!r at ! entrance to ! c\rt--a simil> arrangem5t to t not$ at ,ellora4 ,!re is an elaborate %r9e ov] ! gateway 9 :i* is a seat$ bronze or brass figure ( ,vi%nu ) 8 lotus fl[]1 snakes1 & o!r emblems4 ,! ext]ior ( ! temple is a wond]ful mass ( c>v+4 ,on ! pl9? 0 a cont9u\s n>r[ frieze ( elephants on a small scale1 hav+ ! effect ( a ri*ly c>v$ m\ld+2 above ?is 0 a l9e ( horses1 all saddl$ & bridl$ b )\t rid]s2 above ?is aga9 0 a b& ( human figures4 ,ov] ^! 7 c>v$ on a l>g] scale a s]ies ( figures ( danc+-girls 9 diff]5t attitudes4 ,^! danc]s always =m an important elem5t 9 ! c>v$ decoration ( ,ja9 temples4 ,we next visit$ ! palace ( ! ,mah>ajah1 :i* occupies ! highe/ gr\nd 9 ! city ( ,udaipur4 ,x is a va/1 romantic-look+ pile4 ,! /eep /reet leads ! travell] up to a great ar*$ gateway1 & ?r\gh ?is is ent]$ a l>ge oblong c\rt4 ,on ! "r1 ! va/ :ite palace walls rise to a great height1 ) h>dly any w9d[s1 b high up are se5 fairy-l arcades1 balconies1 & dom$ m9>ets1 glitt]+ ) blue tile-"w & gold4 ,a native cu/odian conduct$ u ov] ! ,palace4 ,ent]+ an inn] c\rt1 we asc5d$ a /eep /one /aircase at an angle1 ! treads ris+ ab\t n9e or twelve in*es high4 ,!re 7 native pa9t+s on ! walls ( ri*ly cap>ison$ /ate elephants be>+ mah>ajahs1 tig]s1 & o!r figures4 ,we pass$ ?r\gh a succession ( rooms & c\rts at diff]5t levels1 ! walls ( :ite m>ble inlaid ) a v f9e sort ( glass mosaic1 n tessellat$ b let 9 9 pieces cut l>ge or small accord+ to ! =ms to be express$4 ,^! 7 g5]ally figures always 9 sev]e pr(ile1 9 elaborate co/ume1 & jewels ! details ( :i* 7 c>efully & ri*ly r5d]$4 ,fl[]s & delicate palm trees v>i$ ! designs1 done 9 ! same way1 ! leaves & small compon5t p>ts be+ cut complete 9 ! glass4 ,!re 7 also =mal floral bord]s outl9+ ! ar*es ( ! arcades1 & =m+ ceil+ patt]ns 9 "s ( ! rooms1 & on ! walls 7 hung 9 frames delicate pa9t+s on vellum1 height5$ ) gold1 su* z "o sees 9 old ,indian illum9at$ ,,mss4 ,9 "s ( ! corridors x 0 r a %ock to see ins]t$ 9 ! w9d[s pieces ( crudely /a9$ ,european glass1 su* z 7 9 vogue 9 cons]vatories "h 9 ! 8=ties40 ,"o room 0 entirely decorat$ ) col\r$ glass1 ! walls be+ v5e]$ ) a zigzag patt]n 9 r$ & :ite glass4 ,o!r & small] rooms 9 ! ,z5ana qu>t]s1 :i* we _h n[ rea*$1 & all at ! top /orey ( ! ,palace1 7 l9$ ) old ,dut* tiles1 o!rs aga9 ) ,*9ese blue & :ite tiles4 ,^! rooms _h graceful1 arcad$ balconies :i* comm&$ ext5sive views4 ,we _h a bird's-eye view ( ! palace c\rts & ! /able y>ds1 :]e elephants 7 te!r$ 9 long r[s1 ! busy natives mov+ ab\t ) horses & ox54 ,beyond 7 se5 ! clu/]+1 small :ite h\ses ) flat ro(s1 brok5 by domes "h & !re1 ! gre5 wood$ c\ntry & ! hills f> away1 :ile on ! o!r side ( ! palace ! lake ) its pavilion$ isl&s mirror$ ! sunset fram$ 9 ! blue m\nta9s4 ,at night we frequ5tly he>d ! weird cries ( ! jackals :i* pr[l ar\nd mo/ places 9 ,india aft] d>k1 & :5 all is quiet 9 human habitations4 ,x is a v wild1 %rill s\nd1 ris+ almo/ to a %riek at times4 ,we also ?\ght we caught ano!r note--! laught] ( ! hy5a4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,mah>ajah',s ,,palace ,,at ,,udaipur4 ,,f ,,! ,,jagm&ir ,,pavilion ,a *>m+ excursion by boat may be made to ! palace ( ,jagm&ir1 :i* occupies ! :ole ( an isl& on ! lake1 a fairy-l pavilion enclos+ luxuriant palms & fruit trees )9 its c\rts & g>d5s 9 :i* "o realis$ ! ar*itecture & sc5]y ( ! ,arabian ,nights4 ,we rea*$ ! lakeside ?r\gh a f9e triple-ar*$ gate :i* l$ to a flight ( /eps desc5d+ into ! wat]4 ,"h a /rik+ sc5e bur/ ^u u4 ,a cr[d ( d>k ,h9du wom5 ?rong$ ! /eps1 clad = ! mo/ "p 9 ri* r$ s>is ( diff]5t tones1 v>i$ by orange & purple drap]y & ! glitt] ( _! silv] bangles & anklets4 ,!y 7 busy clean+ _! brass wat] j>s1 scrubb+ & poli%+ !m on ! /eps at diff]5t levels2 "s /&+ 9 ! wat]1 :il/ o!rs1 fill+ _! vessels & pois+ !m on _! heads1 w\ld move away /ately & erect1 l walk+ c>yatids4 ,pres5tly a r heavy boat ) two native o>sm51 :i* _h be5 summon$ by our guide mov$ f ! palace to ! /eps & we1 ) our be>]1 emb>k$1 & 7 r[$ ov] to ! en*ant+ isl& & ! fairy-l palace ( ,jagm&ir :]e ,%ah ,jehan liv$ :5 9 revolt aga9/ 8 fa!r1 ,jahangir4 ,on ! way we r[$ ar\nd ano!r isl& %[+ :ite arcades & domes em]g+ f gre5 b[]y foliage ( mangoes & palms4 ,l&+ at ! /eps we f\nd ! ,jagm&ir a mo/ lovely place1 full ( arcad$ c\rts1 & m>ble pavem5ts1 po9t$ w9d[s & balconies & m>ble walls enclos+ gre5 g>d5s full ( roses1 & palms1 & planta9s1 a k+ly pavilion1 display+ all ! inv5tion & ref9em5t ( ,mogul art4 ,inside1 too1 ! palace 0 full ( int]e/4 ,!re 0 a *>m+ little pa9t$ *amb]1 ! walls treat$ 9 a sort ( tape/ry mann] ) ,indian sc5es & decorative l&scapes ri* ) trees & v>i$ ) all ! *>act]i/ic birds & animals 7! :ite cranes on ! mango tree :i* we _h se5 9 reality at ,ahm$abad 7 !re7 kites & cr[s1 & antelopes1 & ! ,mah>ajah & 8 horsem5 hunt+ ! tig] amid ^! pa9t$ =e/s & jungles4 ,on "o wall ! ,mah>ajah himself 0 pa9t$ at full l5g? 9 pr(ile 9 a :ite turban & dress also :ite embroid]$ ) gold1 ) a gold nimbus ab\t 8 head z he is suppos$ to be desc5d$ f ,rama1 & is consid]$ a sacr$ p]son connect$ ) ! sun--a l>ge sun face modell$ & gild$ appe>s on ! palace wall4 ,ano!r room 0 said to h be5 pa9t$ by a ,fr5* arti/4 ,he _h tak5 ! lotus z a motive & _h tun$ x into a =mal scroll patt]n 9 ! frieze1 b x 0 n a success1 & _h n ! int]e/ or ! _s or decorative in/9ct ( ! native arti/4 ,! *ief salon _h ,p>isian c>pets on ! floor1 & a dreadful blue glass *&eli]1 & o!r horrors 9 glass & furniture ( ,we/]n orig94 ,op5+ out ( ?is salon 0 a b$room rais$ a /ep or two on a high] level & ! pr9cipal feature "h 0 a l>ge b$/ead 9 glass & silv]6 ,on ! walls ( "o ( ! c\rts 0 a decoration 9 gesso inlaid ) glass1 :i* 0 bo? delicate & effective4 ,!re 7 figures decoratively treat$ 9 sev]e pr(ile1 comb9$ ) trees & fl[]s some:at ,p]sian 9 feel+ & simil> 9 /yle to "s we _h se5 9 ! ,mah>ajah's palace4 ,f ! l&+-place ,i made a sket* ( t palace 9 ! sunlight reflect$ 9 ! calm wat]s ( ! lake4 ,!n1 at noon we r[$ back to ! t[n & return$ 9 our tonga to ! hotel4 ,ano!r ( ! sights ( ,udaipur is to see ! ,mah>ajah's wild pigs f$4 ,he has an ar5a ne> ! t[n = ! cruel sport ( pig-/ick+1 b keeps va/ h]ds ( pigs ^u ! m\nta9 sides at ! head ( ! lake4 ,x is a beautiful drive to ! spot ?r\gh ! city & out at a fur!r gate1 & ?r\gh groves & along a t]race-l road by ! lakeside1 to a :ite build+ on a high gr\nd ov]look+ ! wood$ & rocky m\nta9 side1 p>tially cov]$ ) l[ =e/2 !re f a t]race we c\ld see _m sw9e fe$+4 ,!y are l a small k9d ( wild bo>1 b diff]+ 9 size1 & v fi]ce1 bri/l+ _! backs & *>g+ "o ano!r ov] ! food1 :i* 0 ,indian corn1 scatt]$ broadca/ among !m by two natives1 "o c>ry+ ! sack ( gra9 & ! o!r di/ribut+ x f a sort tr5*]4 ,!re 0 a sort ( ,brobd+nagian m\se-trap on ! gr\nd1 presumably to cat* ! bo>s 91 :5 want$ = ! ar5a4 ,!re 7 b few bo>s at fir/ to be se51 b !y seem$ to "k ! fe$+ "t1 & gradually ga!r$ 9 l>ge numb]s1 & :5 ! gra9 0 scatt]$1 by _! con/ant ru%es aft] x & viol5t *>ges ) ea* o!rs soon rais$ su* a ?ick cl\d ( du/ t !y became lo/ to view z 9 a ?ick mi/1 & c\ld only he> _! ho(s scrap+ ov] ! rocky gr\nd1 & _! savage grunts & squeaks4 ,a numb] ( peacocks hov]$ on ! outskirts on ! look out = /ray gra9 z well z blue rocks & cr[s :i* (t5 p]*$ on ! hogs' backs6 ,! t]race f :i* we survey$ ?is /range sc5e 0 really ! p>apet$ flat ro( ( ! keep]'s dwell+4 ,a flight ( /eps l$ up to a high] t]race :i* surr\nd$ a deep sort ( be>-pit1 :]e a select family ( hogs seem$ to be treat$ ) peculi> di/9ction4 ,n = ^! ! fi]ce /ruggle = gra9 ^u ! m\nta9 side1 :5 ! battle 0 to ! /rong2 no1 ^! 7 f$ ^u a special food--a sort ( l>ge br[n rissole compos$ ( butt]milk & sug>-cane2 b ! hogs 7 fat & did n dev\r ^! attractive morsels1 ev5 ) half ! ze/ :i* _! less fav\r$ relatives outside ate up ! scatt]$ maize4 ,! reason ( ! comp>ative luxury 9 :i* ^! select$ hogs liv$1 we le>n$1 0 t !y _h f\ght ) tig]s1 & ?us 7 treat$ z sup]ior be+s1 by ord] ( ! ,mah>ajah4 ,! wood$ %ores ( ! lake & ! m\nta9s beyond 7 v beautiful 9 ! /ill ev5+ atmosph]e1 z we drove back to ,udaipur1 ! road by ! lake be+ s n>r[ t two c>riages c\ld n pass1 &1 meet+ ! ,resid5t1 we _h to pull 9 to "o side to let 8 c>riage get by4 ,!re 0 a *>m+ view ( ,udaipur f our hotel se5 ?r\gh ! trees1 ! massive ,mah>ajah's palace dom9at+ ! city1 & ba!d 9 ! roseate e>ly morn+ sunlight x look$ p>ticul>ly lovely4 ,i work$ at a sket* ( ?is on ,*ri/mas morn+2 ,i rememb]1 hav+ to be up at sev5 o'clock 9 ord] to cat* ! effect1 :i* soon *ang$4 ,we _h ! mo/ brilliant moonlight nights "h1 too4 ,we visit$ ! ,mah>ajah's g>d5s :]e 0 a sort ( ,zoo4 ,!re 7 "s h&some tig]s 9 r small cages1 hogs1 leop>ds1 "o lion1 de]1 gu9ea-pigs1 geese1 cockatoos1 & o!r birds & bea/s1 includ+ "s melan*oly dogs ( v>i\s bre$s1 *a9$ at int]vals ar\nd a c\rty>d4 ,^! 7 suppos$ to be 9 hospital4 ,f ! ,zoo we drove ?r\gh a f9e wood$ p>k to ! ,museum call$ ! ,victoria ,in/itute1 :]e a native curator %[$ u r\nd4 ,x 0 a :ite build+ 9 ! ,moslem /yle b q new4 ,x includ$ a libr>y 9 :i* 0 plac$ a bad /atue ( our late ,que54 ,!re 7 modell$ heads 9 col\r$ pla/]1 rang$ 9 cases numb]$ & ticket$1 ( all ! ,h9du ca/es1 ea* ) _! prop] ca/e m>k ^u _! =eheads4 ,!re 0 a miscellane\s collection o!rwise1 native arts & indu/ries & antiquities1 z well z ,european1 be+ repres5t$ v sp>sely4 ,! :ole ?+ _h a sort ( =c$ & artificial "* 9 su* surr\nd+s & 0 q empty ( visitors4 ,we 71 h[ev]1 e>ly !re4 ,9 driv+ ?r\gh ! gate ( ! city1 a fun]al pass$ u--a b& ( "y m5 be>+ on a /ret*] ! corpse :i* 0 swa!d 9 r$ cotton & tightly b\nd up l a mummy4 ,! be>]s mov$ at a quick1 almo/ jaunty pace1 approa*+ a trot1 & ) !m 7 o!r natives :o *ant$ a sort ( song4 ,if x 0 an equival5t = a dirge x 0 q a *e]ful "o--b !n ! ,h9dus1 z well z ! ,mohamm$ans & ,indians1 look ^u dea? z a happy translation to ano!r exi/5ce1 & ! accompanim5ts ( gloom to :i* we are accu/om$ 9 ,*ri/ian c\ntries h no exi/5ce "h4 ,we dep>t$1 on ,*ri/mas ,day 9 ! morn+1 f ,*itor & ,ajmir aga91 return+ by ! way we came4 ,udaipur is at ! end ( ! bran* l9e f ,ajmir :i* has n ,i believe be5 9 exi/5ce _m ye>s4 ,on ! way to ! /ation ,i notic$ "s v primitive huts clu/]$ 9 a gr\p on a ris+ gr\nd above ! road4 ,!y almo/ exactly resembl$ ! huts ( ! e>ly ,britons & ,gauls z !y appe> on ,trajan's column1 be+ circul> 9 =m1 built ( mud or sun-bak$ bricks & ro($ ) a sort ( rude ?at* laid ov] a bamboo trellis4 ,9 ?is l& ( wond]s & contra/s truly1 "o sees ev]y?+ bo? 9 cu/oms & dwell+s f ! mo/ primitive to ! mo/ elaborate & luxuri\s1 f ! mo/ anci5t to ! mo/ mod]n =ms ( life4 ,x is sad to note1 h[ev]1 t at lea/ z f> z ! outw>d aspects ( life are conc]n$1 all t ,we/]n contact seems to h done = ! p ( ,india is to introduce corrugat$ iron1 ,man*e/] cotton1 & ! k]os5e c--) petrol & its smell6 ,at ,udaipur /ation !re 0 a great native cr[d ( e v>iety ( type1 wond]ful 9 col\r & co/ume4 ,_m ( ! m5 c>ri$ sabres z well z walk+-/icks :i* seem to be ! m>ks ( sup]ior ca/e 9 ,rajputana4 ,!re 71 too1 ! usual cr[d ( poor] travell]s ) _! extraord9>y bundles & br[n babies4 ,a native woman /ood on ! plat=m ) a huge %eaf ( sug>-cane :i* %e sold 9 pieces to ! travell]s1 &1 ( c\rse1 !re 7 ! sweet /uff sell]s1 & ! inevitable betel-nut4 ,rea*+ ,*itorg>h 9 ! late aft]noon ! old =t ) its zigzag wall$ road look$ q famili>1 & at ! /ation our elephant 0 9 wait+ aga94 ,we c\ld n get on to ,ajmir until night1 & s did n arrive !re until ab\t #e4cj 9 ! morn+4 ,com+ f a plague-/rick5 di/rict pass5g]s 7 n all[$ to leave ! tra9 until a m$ical inspection _h tak5 place4 ,an ,engli% doctor ) a native att5dant be>+ a lant]n came r\nd & w5t ?r\gh ! f>ce ( feel+ ev]ybody's pulse be=e anybody 0 all[$ to leave ! /ation4 ,we only /opp$1 h[ev]1 to get "s tea & await a tra9 = ,jaipur1 our next de/9ation4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,jaipur ,9 our travels ?r\gh ,india we met comp>atively few ( our own c\ntrym5 & wom54 ,! ,engli% 7or ! ,briti%7 h n z yet tak5 mu* to t\r+ 9 ! ,empire ( :i* su* a pr\d boa/ is con/antly made4 ,! ,engli% 9 ,india are usually resid5ts connect$ ) civil or milit>y po/s4 ,!y g out to take up _! (ficial duties1 & directly !y get leave !y ru% 8home0--,engl& is always spok5 ( z 8home10 ev5 by resid5ts 9 ,india ( long /&+4 ,x g5]ally happ5s t ! (ficials & _! families are qu>t]$ at "s p>ticul> /ation 9 a p>ticul> di/rict1 & may rema9 !re all _! "t1 s t ! ,engli% resid5t 9 ,india g5]ally does n see any o!r p>ts ( ! great p59sul>1 & is n acqua9t$ ) ! c\ntry beyond 8 own di/rict4 ,a t\ri/1 !re=e1 9 a few mon?s may h a m complete g5]al or ev5 p>ticul> acqua9tance ) ,india at l>ge1 z reg>ds its great cities & fam\s monum5ts1 ?an _m a resid5t :o has sp5t ! be/ "p ( 8 life 9 "o /ation1 & :o always takes 8 leave at 8home40 ,fr5* t\ri/s are occasionally met )1 b ,am]icans are ! mo/ num]\s1 & !y are met ) ev]y:]e4 ,! e>ly morn+ tra9 we _h tak5 f ,ajmir to ,jaipur 0 invad$ by a p>ty ( no less ?an =ty ( our ,transatlantic c\s9s1 :o ov]fl[$ x & fill$ our comp>tm5t ) an incr$ible am\nt ( h& baggage4 ,!y seem$ to be1 z f> z "o c\ld make out1 connect$ ) "s mission4 ,!y rem9d$ me r ( a ga!r+ 9 "o ( ! cities ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates at :i* ,i 0 pres5t 7,philadelphia1 ,i ?9k71 :]e "o ( my ,am]ican fri5ds rem>k$1 8,n[1 all ^! y see "h are types1 b none ( !m are wor? /udy+06 ,! c\ntry trav]s$ betwe5 ,ajmir & ,jaipur is mo/ly pla91 & v des]t-l 9 places1 ) di/ant m\nta9 ranges beyond1 n unlike ,arizona 9 g5]al "*4 ,gre5 crops "u irrigation are1 h[ev]1 occasionally se51 & among !m n unfrequ5tly may be notic$ a pair ( l>ge1 grey-plumag$ cranes1 fe$+ 9 ! "y corn1 :i* d n take to flight at ! approa* ( ! tra94 ,we rea*$ ,jaipur ab\t noon & put up at ,ru/om's ,hotel1 a comp>atively %ort drive f ! /ation4 ,! hotel /&s 9 ! middle ( a l>ge enclosure divid$ by a l[ wall f ! high road4 ,t5ts are pit*$ along "o side ( ! build+ to af=d extra sleep+ accommodation1 & a sort ( bungal[ annexe is prep>$ to take ov]fl[ gue/s4 ,f pleasant rooms on ! t]race we _h a view ( ! ,tig] ,=t & ! road ) its con/ant procession ( natives1 ox-c>ts1 & camels & horsem5 troop+ into ! city ab\t a mile (f4 ,a r[ ( tall acacia trees scre5$ ! late aft]noon sun1 & b>r$-l fretwork ! gold5 light ( aft]gl[1 & we (t5 wat*$ ! peacocks fly+ up to roo/ among ! bran*es1 _! beautiful =ms silh\ett$ aga9/ ! orange sky betwe5 ! int]/ices ( ! leaves4 ,illu/ration3 ,,hotel ,,accommodation 7,,jaipur71 8,,= ,,y\r ,,ease ,,& ,,com=t0 7,,or ,,r ,,= ,,! ,,eas+ ,,( ,,y\r ,,rupees87 ,! native proprietor1 or manag]1 dur+ ! prelim9>y c]emony ( tak+ our names1 & 9 gett+ a =m ( application to ! ,resid5t fill$ up = p]mission to visit ! ,mah>ajah's palace & ! palace at ,amb]1 made polite spee*es1 express+ himself only anxi\s = 8our ease & com=t0--( c\rse )\t any ?\ght ( prospective rupees4 ,clu/]s ( native huts built ( mud ) ?at*$ ro(s occur at frequ5t int]vals ar\nd ,jaipur outside ! city walls2 f our t]race at ! hotel we c\ld see sev]al4 ,!re 0 app>5tly a small village )9 a /one's-?r[4 ,"o ev5+ ! /ra9s ( :at s\nd$ l a native *ant or song 9 *orus 7 waft$ to u f ?is village1 & we he>d t a native w$d+ 0 go+ on !re2 b ! illusion 0 some:at de/roy$ :5 we le>n$ t ! suppos$ native music proce$$ f ! m\? ( a gramophone6 ,x is said t special ones are n[ prep>$ = ! ,indian m>ket ) popul> native songs & music--ano!r boon f ! ,we/4 ,jaipur is a city )9 high cr5ellat$ walls1 built ( rubble & pla/]$ ) cem5t4 ,! same =m ( palisade-l battlem5t cre/$ ! walls "h z at ,*itorg>h1 & is ! common =m 9 ,mogul def5sive build+s4 ,among ! native huts :i* clu/] outside ! walls1 ,i notic$ "s ( wick]2 _m ( ! huts1 too1 _h wick] scre5s--a sort ( lattice-"w made ( bamboo--cov]+ ! o!rwise op5 fronts4 ,jaipur is kn[n z ! rose-col\r$ city4 ,! ,mah>ajah mu/ be v fond ( p9k1 9 fact he may be said to h 8pa9t$ ! t[n r$40 ,! :ole ( ! ma9 fronts ( ! h\ses fac+ ! /reets are di/emp]$ 9 a k9d ( d>ki% rose p9k--really r$--! rosy hue be+ l>gely due to ! lum9\s atmosph]e 9 ! full sunlight1 & x becomes /ill rosi] 9 ! flu% ( ev5+4 ,x is d>k en\gh at anyrate to %[ a decoration ( l9es ( floral devices & patt]ns pa9t$ 9 :ite ^u ! r$ walls4 ,! :ole s*eme1 no d\bt1 0 sugge/$ by ! r$ s&/one build+s inlaid ) :ite m>ble :i* are ! glory ( ,delhi & ,agra4 ,x is n a sort ( imitation calculat$ to deceive any "o1 h[ev]1 b cle>ly a s*eme ( pa9t$ decoration emulat+ ! effect ( ! solid mat]ials m5tion$4 ,! city has1 ow+ to ?is treatm5t1 a v di/9ctive sc5ic aspect ( its own1 & is v /rik+1 ! brilliant & v>i$ patt]n ( vivid col\r 9 ! co/ume ( ! natives 9 ! baza>s1 ) ?is roseate backgr\nd1 produc+ q a unique effect4 ,"o has1 h[ev]1 aft] a "t an impression ( unreality & unsub/antiality1 z ( /age sc5]y :i* w pres5tly be %ift$4 ,! ,mah>ajah ( ,jaipur has ! reputation ( be+ v advanc$ & mod]n 9 8 ideas4 ,he has at anyrate set up gasworks 9 8 city1 :i* also possesses a l>ge public g>d5 laid out 9 ! ,european mann]1 & is bo? horticultural & zoological1 & conta9s a museum & a bronze /atue ( ,"l ,mayo4 ,x seems r a mi/ake1 9 a climate l t ( ,india1 to lay out gr\nds ) broad s]p5t9e pa?s & drives un%ad$ by trees1 & va/ lawns :i* c only be kept up ) a pret5ce ( gre5ness by con/ant & labori\s wat]+4 ,x is ano!r ( ! mi/ak5 =eign importations4 ,! ,ea/]n type ( g>d51 on ! o!r h&1 is q appropriate & adapt$ to ! necessities ( ! climate4 ,its *>act]i/ics are n>r[1 /raight pa?s betwe5 closely plant$ groves ( trees1 acacias1 planta9s1 palms1 & fruit trees1 & v>i$ ) tanks & f\nta9s1 & cool m>ble pavilions1 ! :ole enclos$ 9 a protect+ wall l an e>?ly p>adise4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,mah>ajah',s ,,/ate ,,elephant1 ,,jaipur ,x does n *e] ! ,engli% travell] 9 ! ,ea/--at lea/ ,i nev] he>d t x did--to see a l[ wall surm\nt$ by a ca/-iron rail+ & common-place b pret5ti\s gates1 enclos+ a joyless 8public g>d50 ( a ,briti% ve/ry type4 ,! proprietors ( ! art depots 9 ! baza>s ( ,jaipur are v ent]pris+1 & resort to all k9ds ( allurem5ts to induce ! travell] to ent] & pur*ase4 ,to beg9 )1 ! t\ri/ 9 8 c>riage is pepp]$ ) a p]fect hail ( :ite bus9ess c>ds flung at him by active t\ts1 :o are always on ! al]t = ! pass+ /rang] 9 ! baza>s1 :o receives su* s$uctive invitations z 8,see my %op80--8,v nice ?+s0--8,don't want y to buy--only to look60 ,we visit$ a l>ge art-deal]'s /ore4 ,x 0 prettily arrang$ ar\nd a small cov]$ c\rt1 light$ f ! top4 ,an arcade divid$ a s]ies ( rooms along ea* side1 bo? on ! gr\nd & on a second floor4 ,?is c\rt 0 ri*ly c>pet$ & furni%$ ) seats1 c(fee tables1 & divans4 ,"o device ( ! proprietor or manag] 0 to invite prospective cu/om]s to witness a dance ( naut* girls 9 ?is c\rt1 presumably to conduce to a fav\rable mood = ext5sive pur*ases4 ,at ?is place 0 a great display ( ,jaipur enamels1 appli$ 9 a v>iety ( ways f small jewell]y to l>ge1 *as$1 brass di%es & trays4 ,i saw a l>ge di% prep>$ by ! native craftsman 7:o 0 sitt+ at "w at ! entrance7 = *amplv enamel1 v deftly *as$1 ?\gh ! mod]n reproductions ( ! traditional ,indian patt]ns /rike "o z r me*anical4 ,! skill ( ! craftsman is !re1 b ! feel+ & initiative ( ! arti/ is too (t5 want+4 ,rajput arms & arm\r hung on ! :ite walls ( ! c\rt1 & !re 0 an imm5se /ock ( all sorts ( metal-"w & jewell]y1 mo/ly mod]n1 & numb]s ( small portable articles 9 brass1 evid5tly meant = ! eye & ! pocket ( ! t\ri/2 among/ ^! 7 quantities ( small pi]c$ brass boxes 9 ! =m ( cu%ions4 ,i saw "s int]e/+ old ,indian m9iature pictures f ,,mss4--"o ( a rajah %oot+ a b[3 he 0 /&+ ^u a globe :i* re/$ on ! back ( an ox1 :i* aga9 /ood ^u ! back ( a fi%4 ,!re 7 "s suits ( *a9 mail ( extraord9>y f95ess1 & wond]ful engrav$ blades ( _m k9ds4 ,besides ! well-kn[n ,jaipur enamell$ jewell]y !re 0 a quantity ( preci\s /ones--g>nets1 ame?y/s1 s>donyx1 onyx1 & jade4 ,ano!r speciality ( ,jaipur "w are ! *>m+ sph]ical roll+ lamps4 ,^! are sph]es ( brass *as$ & pi]c$ all ov] ) floral patt]n1 & made to op54 ,inside1 by a v +5i\s bit ( me*anism1 a small lamp is s susp5d$ t x always ma9ta9s a horizontal position1 & ?\gh ! sph]e may be roll$ along ! gr\nd x nev] upsets ! lamp )94 ,!y are us$ 9 ! temples at fe/ival times4 ,^! lamps are made at ! ,art ,s*ool at ,jaipur1 :]e _m native h&icrafts are practis$4 ,cont9u+ our drive ab\t ! city we 7 introduc$ to ! ,mah>ajah's /ate elephant4 ,he 0 a f9e bea/1 & occupi$ a l[ wall$ c\rt1 all to himself & 8 keep]4 ,8 =ehead1 trunk1 & e>s 7 decorat$ ) an elaborate pa9t$ arabesque--a patt]n 9 :i* v]milion1 yell[1 & turquoise pr$om9at$4 ,8 enorm\s tusks _h _h _! po9ts truncat$1 & ^! 7 tipp$ & b\nd ) m\ld$ b&s ( brass4 ,! animal 0 te!r$ by "o ( 8 h9d feet to a po/1 & /ood 9 ! %ade ( ! high palace wall1 tranquilly mun*+ /alks ( "s k9d ( corn4 ,i reproduce ! sket* ,i made at ! "t ( ! elephant & ! old man1 8 keep]4 ,aft] tiff9 we visit$ ! palace4 ,"o c\ld n say mu* = ! ta/e ( "s ( ! decorations4 ,we 7 %[n sev]al l>ge durb> halls ) op5 colonnades1 :i*1 h[ev]1 7 clos$ by hang+s1 :i* our guide--a tall1 grey-:isk]$ ,rajput--lift$ up to %[ ! int]iors4 ,! vault$ ceil+s 7 pa9t$ ) patt]ns on r a l>ge scale & 9 crude r$s & blues1 r op5 & spread out ov] ! :ite pla/]1 & some:at co>se 9 =m4 ,we 7 !n l$ ?r\gh ! g>d5s1 :i* 7 laid out ) long tanks ) flagg$ walks ea* side1 l9$ ) gas lamps1 b !re 0 no wat] 9 ! tanks4 ,f>!r on we pass$ ?r\gh a gateway at ! top ( a flight ( /eps to ! alligator tank4 ,"h a native att5dant hav+ ti$ a piece ( meat to ! end ( a /r+1 ano!r set up a curi\s weird call1 :ile yet ano!r ran on to ! %ore ( ! lake or tank1 & did 8 be/ to wake up "o or two v torpid alligators :i* lay 9 ! sun%9e by seiz+ hold ( _! tails & mak+ !m take to ! wat]4 ,f9ally1 aft] mu* p]suasion1 two alligators 7 induc$ to come up = ! food4 ,"o ( ^!--an old "o ) no tee? 7none ( !m h tongues7--op5$ its horrid :ite m\? & snapp$ at ! piece ( meat :i* ! man dangl$ at ! end ( ! /r+4 ,mean:ile big yell[ turtles swam up to jo9 9 ! game1 at :i* !y 7 mu* quick] ?an ! alligators4 ,l>ge br[n kites1 too1 see+ :at 0 go+ on1 hov]$ ab\t expectantly1 & dext]\sly caught fragm5ts ?r[n to !m 9 mid air4 ,! ubiquit\s cr[ 0 !re also1 ready = any unconsid]$ trifles4 ,! life ( ! baza>s at ,jaipur is s+ul>ly v>i$ & int]e/+4 ,! /reets are unusually wide z native /reets g 9 ,india4 ,!y f9d room to %ake out long /rips ( newly dy$ cotton to dry--a man hold+ ! clo? at ea* end & wav+ x wildly ab\t to dry1 s t great pla%es ( yell[ or orange & p9k are apt to illum9ate ! /reets "h & !re1 z ?is process is a frequ5t incid5t4 ,! brighte/ r$1 yell[1 gre51 & blue & p9k are also se5 9 ! co/umes or r drap]ies ( ! p--! ,h9du wom5 9 _! graceful s>is1 g5]ally 9 diff]5t %ades ( r$2 ! ,mohamm$an wom5 veil+ _! heads & %\ld]s 9 "s vivid-col\r$ musl9--s t "o _h a g5]al impression ( p walk+ ab\t attir$ 9 ra9b[s4 ,qua9t1 two-:eel$ vehicles 7 num]\s1 (t5 elaborately pa9t$ & decorat$1 call$ recklas1 hav+ awn+s ov] !m1 & 7 driv5 by a sup]ior ca/e ( natives--possibly !y might be a sort ( equival5t = ! gig ( respectability :i* ,c>lyle writes (4 ,!n !re 7 ! heavi] ox-c>ts ( ! peasant1 "s ( !m ) a dom$ cov] drap$ 9 r$ )9 :i* hidd5 f view sat ! wom5 & *ildr54 ,ano!r k9d ( c>t 0 built ( bamboo1 a curi\s lattice ( ! same =m+ ! pole & yoke = a pair ( ox54 ,%av+1 massage1 clean+ tee?1 wa%+1 & all ! necess>y op]ations1 :i* 9 ! we/ are g5]ally p]=m$ 9 private1 are 9 ,indian native qu>t]s c>ri$ on 9 ! op54 ,! natives d n seem to "k :at privacy is or to feel ! ne$ ( x4 ,! little nak$ br[n babies ev]y:]e play+ freely ab\t are delightful4 ,great flocks ( pigeons 7blue rocks7 are always fly+ ab\t or swoop+ d[n to be f$ ) gra9 9 ! op5 spaces by wom52 b !y are driv5 away f ! heaps ( gra9 = sale 9 ! baza>s4 ,! wom5 c>ry ev]y?+ ^u _! heads1 & seem to d mo/ ( ! port]age--be>+ endless baskets ( br[n fuel made 9 r\gh flat cakes1 bundles ( wood1 /raw1 sug>-cane1 gre5 /uff1 b$d+1 & wat] j>s4 ,9 ,rajputana ! wom5 we> a r full skirt "u ! s>i1 9 _m pleats r aft] ! /yle ( an ,albanian fu/anelle4 ,masses ( bracelets1 sometimes completely cov]+ _! br[n arms1 are worn1 ei!r ( col\r$ glass1 or lacqu]$ metal1 or silv]1 & silv] anklets z a rule ) little bells atta*$4 ,arm$ horsem5 are frequ5tly se5 rid+ 9 f or out into ! c\ntry4 ,elephants1 camels1 & flocks ( goats v>y ! /reet sc5es1 & resid5ts' c>riages ) outrid]s2 camels are also sometimes us$ to draw vehicles1 driv5 9 pairs4 ,illu/ration3 ,,to ,,amb] ,,on ,,an ,,elephant ,musicians1 ) ! peculi> long h&l$ ,indian guit>1 juggl]s1 conjur]s1 snake *>m]s1 v5dors ( /uffs & embroid]ies1 & photograph sell]s haunt ! op5 arcades ( ! hotels & use e device to attract ! att5tion ( travell]s4 ,a visit to ! des]t$ city ( ,amb] & its palace is "o ( ! pr9cipal excursions outside ,jaipur4 ,x is be/ to />t e>ly 9 ! morn+1 z !re is a f\r to six miles drive by c>riage to rea* ! place :5ce ! asc5t to ,amb] on elephants' backs is made4 ,! road ?i!r takes ! visitor ?r\gh a section ( ! city ( ,jaipur1 & passes out on ! o!r side into a road skirt$ ) trees & g>d5s1 f amid/ :i* rise ! domes ( ! pavilions ( weal?y ,rajputs4 ,! ,alligator lake is aga9 pass$1 & "s di/ance beyond ?is ! foot ( ! hill is rea*$1 :5 ! travell] is expect$ to leave 8 c>riage & m\nt "o ( ! elephants 9 wait+ !re to take him up to ,amb]--ano!r two miles4 ,x is necess>y to be furni%$ ) a =mal p]mission f ! ,resid5t to visit ,amb]4 ,=m]ly elephants 7 plac$ at ! disposal ( visitors by ! ,mah>ajah1 b s9ce t\ri/s became num]\s elephants mu/ be hir$ by !m4 ,!y are by no means ri*ly cap>ison$ elephants4 ,! h\s+s leave mu* to be desir$1 & ! seats are mu* out ( repair1 & "o is lucky to f9d ! foot-bo>d slung at a usable level & fairly horizontal1 & if ! protect+ rail ( ! seat does n slip out4 ,= ^? :o are will+ to sacrifice processional dignity & spectacul> effect1 h[ev]1 z well z a sl[ %ak+1 x is q possible to walk--= ! able bodi$1 & be=e ! sun is high4 ,aft] a /eepi% hill at fir/ ! road desc5ds aga91 & pass+ along ! bord] ( a small lake1 turns r\nd at its head & aga9 asc5ds to ! palace on a consid]able height1 ( :i* a di/ant view is obta9$1 z "o approa*es x1 f ! road4 ,x is a /rik+ pile ( ,mohamm$an ar*itecture4 ,?ree great gateways are pass$ on ! /eep approa* up ! rocky sides ( ! hill1 & ! road is protect$ by a wall1 z at ,*itorg>h4 ,f9ally ! great gateway lead+ into ! c\rty>d ( ! palace is rea*$1 & we dism\nt f ! elephant & are surr\nd$ by a numb] ( hang]s-on1 "o ( :i* comes =w>d to act z guide ov] ! palace1 :i* %[$ traces ( consid]able re/oration4 ,! great doors ( solid brass 7 exce$+ly f9e 7bo? "h & at ! ,mah>ajah's palace 9 ,jaipur--really ! be/ ?+s !re74 ,!re 7 also doors beautifully inlaid ) ivory & ebony to "s ( ! z5ana rooms1 all ! doors be+ int]e/+ = _! woods & jo9]y4 ,!re 7 "s delicate pi]c$ m>ble scre5s ov] ! gateway ( ! inn] c\rt :i* _h a mo/ lovely effect se5 aga9/ ! sky4 ,! rooms 7 v elaborately decorat$ ) a sort ( v5e] ( small pieces ( look+-glass arrang$ 9 arabesque1 & unit$ by cloisonn ( gesso =m+ ! l9es ( divisions ( ! patt]n1 simil> to t we _h se5 at ,udaipur4 ,?is decoration1 c>ri$ all ov] a vault$ ceil+1 9 ! sunlight reflect$ f ! floor1 glitt]$ l beat5 silv]4 ,on ! l[] halls 7 delicate m>ble panels ( floral designs 9 relief4 ,! palace z a :ole did n /rike u z s beautiful z t at ,udaipur1 al?\gh va/ly m s ?an ! ,mah>ajah's at ,jaipur4 ,illu/ration3 ,,%opp+ ,,9 ,,jaipur ,f ! ro( & t]races we look$ d[n on g>d5s & pavilions & on ! lake bel[1 !n p>tially dry1 & wond]$ h[ ?is va/ palace ) all its luxuri\s decoration came to be des]t$4 ,a temple at ! ma9 entrance1 h[ev]1 is /ill ma9ta9$ = wor%ip1 :i* is t ( ,kali--"o ( ! aspects or second>y *>act]s ( ,p>vati1 ! wife ( ,siva--a savage1 blood-?ir/y goddess only propitiat$ by animal sacrifices4 ,a goat or a kid is /ill sacrific$ daily "h4 ,x 0 pa!tic en\gh to see ! innoc5t1 unconsci\s int5d$ victim--a poor little kid ti$ at ! corn] ( ! plat=m ( ! temple by a little heap ( s&4 ,mr ,w4 ,s4 ,ca9e gives a graphic acc\nt ( h[ ! head ( ! victim is in/antane\sly cut (f by ! (ficiat+ prie/1 an act he witness$1 b we felt no desire to see ?is execution4 ,on our way back ,i saw a curi\s in/ance ( ! boldness ( a kite & ! un]r+ way 9 :i* !y swoop at _! prey4 ,a native 0 walk+ d[n ! hill 9 front ( u c>ry+ a piece ( bread 9 8 h&1 f :i* he ate1 sw++ x at 8 side betwe5 :iles4 ,a kite hov]+ above made a sudd5 swoop at ! bread1 :i* he /ruck ) 8 beak1 scatt]+ ! crumbs1 ?\gh he did n succe$ 9 knock+ x q out ( ! man's h&4 ,driv+ 9 ! ev5+ ?r\gh ! baza>s at ,jaipur we /opp$ ! c>riage to pur*ase "s native cottons & musl9s1 & 7 imm$iately surr\nd$ by a noisy1 /ruggl+ cr[d ( rival trad]s :o fill$ ! c>riage ) _! gay col\r$ /uffs1 & lit]ally cov]$ u up ) !m4 ,our be>] negotiat$ ! b>ga9s1 & 9 ! end we c>ri$ (f "s *>act]i/ic textile s\v5irs4 ,on ! way back to our hotel we /opp$ to see ! ,mah>ajah's horses1 pass+ ?r\gh a gateway into a l>ge ex]cise gr\nd1 d[n ! sides ( :i* ran a long op5 %$1 ) horses te!r$ 9 a l9e1 ea* horse be+ secur$ by long ropes f ea* h9d fetlock fa/5$ to pegs on iron r+s fix$ 9 ! gr\nd1 :i* slop$ d[n to ! op5 c\rt4 ,9 addition to ^! ea* horse 0 ti$ by a halt]1 ) a rope ea* side to r+s 9 ! mang]1 & all1 ( c\rse1 _h clo?s on4 ,!re 7 no p>titions betwe5 ! animals1 :i* ,i suppose 0 ! reason ( _! be+ s c>efully secur$4 ,!re 7 "s v f9e animals among !m1 & ! native grooms 7 v will+ to %[ !m (f--= a little back%ee%4 ,!re 7 :ite ,arabs1 ,wal]s1 ,engli% hunt]s1 & a t9y ,burmese pony4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,agra ,we left ,jaipur = ,agra on ! #bi? ( ,decemb]1 f9d+ ! usual excit$ cr[d at ! /ation4 ,! tra9 pass$ ?r\gh a r dry1 pla9 c\ntry1 ?\gh v>i$ by crops "u irrigation4 ,we *ang$ at a junction nam$ ,b&akni1 ! tra9 we 7 9 go+ on to ,delhi4 ,x 0 a refre%m5t /ation4 ,"h a good tiff9 0 procurable4 ,go+ on ab\t #d4cj 9 ! aft]noon1 we ent]$ a m f]tile & int]e/+ c\ntry1 ! crops be+ m abundant1 & ! wells also4 ,!re 7 "s f9e groves ( trees1 & di/ant ranges ( hills to be se54 ,curi\s m\nds & tumbl$ b\ld]s v>i$ ! pla9s "h & !re 9 places4 ,peacocks 7 pl5tiful1 & !y ev5 occasionally /ray$ on to ! railway metals at ! /ations4 ,antelopes 7 also to be se51 & once an animal resembl+ a wolf 0 se5 9 ! jungle4 ,a jungle1 by ! way1 is n necess>ily a slice ( tropical =e/1 full ( long grass1 tangl$ creep]s1 & tig]s1 b may be any bit ( uncultivat$ c\ntry4 ,we rea*$ ,agra ab\t #i ,p4,m4 aft] a com=table j\rney4 ,we put up at ! ,metropole ,hotel--a k9d ( ext5d$ bungal[1 ) a two-/ori$ c5tre & two long1 l[ w+s ( rooms "u ! usual arcad$ arrangem5t1 ) a g>d5 9 ! middle4 ,! rooms 7 spaci\s & l(ty1 b b>e1 *e]less & cold4 ,! travell] ( c\rse mu/ n expect any old-fa%ion$ welcome or p]sonal int]e/ 9 8 com=t or welf>e 9 any c\ntry at any mod]n ho/elry 9 ^! days4 ,he writes or wires = 8 room1 & he may be ?ankful if x is ready = him :5 he arrives4 ,he mu/ be cont5t to be m]ely ,no4 ,s-&-s1 & may n ev5 see ! ho/ or manag] at all4 ,!re 01 naturally1 m or less ( a ru% on ,agra ab\t ?is "t1 z ! prep>ations = ! reception ( ! ,amir ( ,afghani/an 7 f> advanc$1 & di/+ui%$ visitors 7 beg9n+ to arrive4 ,! ,engli% t\ri/ :o _h n furni%$ himself ) introductions 9 su* a place 0 app>5tly reg>d$ z a m]e worm by ! sup]ior milit>y & (ficial ,briti% circles4 ,driv+ to ! =t next morn+ we 7 /opp$ by an ,engli% s5try1 :o produc$ a writt5 c>d ( ,regulations =bidd+ ! entrance ( c>riages1 s we got out & walk$ ?r\gh ! ,emp]or ,akb>'s great ,delhi gate 7#aeff71 :i* is on a f9e scale1 & pass$ on to ! ,pe>l ,mosque1 ! ,moti ,musjid1 built by ,%ah ,jehan 9 #afed--! private *apel ( ! c\rt ( ! ,mogul ,emp]ors--a beautiful :ite m>ble build+ 9 a fair c\rt4 ,an ,arabic inscription records :5 x 0 built & :y4 ,we pass$ on to ! great squ>e ( ! =t :i* 0 busily prep>+ = ! reception ( ! ,amir1 :o 0 expect$ to arrive on ! #i? ( ,janu>y4 ,!y 7 actually build+ out an extra portico 9 solid masonry add+ x on to ! exi/+ ,durbas ,hall 7,diwan-i-,khas71 :i* 0 s block$ ) workm5 & mat]ials x 0 n possible to see mu* inside1 & our be>]1 :o 0 by way ( act+ z guide :5 he c\ld1 0 r\ghly turn$ back by an ,engli% (ficial4 ,we made ! r\nd ( ! great ,akb>'s ,=t1 :i* is c]ta9ly on a noble scale1 & return+ to ! ,delhi gate by ugly & mean ,briti% b>rack build+s1 :i* h be5 put up )9 its massive walls1 we c\ld n b be /ruck ) ! contra/ betwe5 ! "w ( "o ,empire & t ( ano!r4 ,ov] ,akb>'s great gate1 h[ev]1 float$ our ,union ,flag4 ,illu/ration3 ,,aggravat+ ,,agra ,our next exp$ition 0 to ! r5[n$ ,taj ,mahal1 ! beautiful m>ble tomb erect$ by ,%ah ,jehan 9 memory ( 8 fav\rite wife1 & :i* 0 to be 8 own monum5t also4 ,! way ?i!r lies ?r\gh ! cantonm5ts & ! gov]nm5t g>d5s4 ,we pass$ ?r\gh great encampm5ts1 !n 9 a /ate ( busy prep>ation4 ,on ! road 0 be+ erect$ a l>ge triumphal ar* 9 ! ,moslem /yle1 ^u :i* native workm5 7 engag$ pa9t+ & decorat+4 ,native police 9 khaki & r$ turbans l9$ ! r\te at int]vals1 & salut$ z we drove pa/4 ,! ,vic]oy's camp 0 beautifully laid out & arrang$ ) turf1 walks1 & fl[]s4 ,we saw a procession ( native wom5 c>ry+ palms & plants 9 pots on _! heads1 f ox-c>ts unload+ !m1 = ! camp4 ,camp+ 9 ,india1 inde$1 seems to be a f9e art1 & is c>ri$ out 9 e detail ) ! utmo/ complet5ess4 ,9 ! gov]nm5t g>d5s ! ideas ( ! ,engli% l&scape g>d5] 7 9 evid5ce4 ,!y 7 laid out ) s]p5t9e walks & drives 9 ! mod]n public p>ks /yle1 ! l>ge %adeless /ret*es ( w\ld-be turf /ruggl+ to %[ a little gre5 "u repeat$ wat]+s1 ) gr\ps ( "y trees "h & !re4 ,a big /atue ( ,que5 ,victoria 0 plac$ conspicu\sly on ! high gr\nd 9 ! c5tre ( "o ( ^! des]t-l lawns4 ,a little beyond we came to ! magnific5t gate ( ! ,taj1 a noble /ructure ( r$ s&/one & :ite m>ble1 approa*$ by /eps4 ,pass+ ?r\gh its deep %ad[ "u ! great ar* ! wond]ful tomb 9 all its pe>ly :it5ess1 ) its graceful dome & sl5d] m9>ets1 ris+ sp>kl+ 9 ! full sunlight above a gre5 b[] ( trees aga9/ ! deep blue ( ! sky1 & reflect$ 9 ! /ill wat] ( ! long tank1 breaks ^u ! sight l a fairy vision4 ,! tank ) t]rac$ walks1 flagg$ ) /one1 ext5ds f ! /eps ( ! entrance gateway to ! front ( ! ,taj itself1 its long l9e only brok5 by a rais$ m>ble t]race ) seats ab\t half way4 ,r[s ( sl5d] cypresses en=ce ! long p]spective :i* leads ! eye up to ! %r9e4 ,! ,moslems c]ta9ly felt ! importance ( spac+ & proportion1 & ! art ( lead+ ! eye & prep>+ ! m9d = ! appreciation ( beautiful art & ar*itecture by c>eful plann+ ( ! sett+ & surr\nd+s ( _! great temples & tombs4 ,space is z important an elem5t 9 _! design z ! exquisite h&icraft :i* produc$ _! unrivall$ detail4 ,! ,taj itself is on a rais$ plat=m ( /one1 & is flank$ on ea* side by two noble mosques ( r$ s&/one spl5didly inlaid ) :ite m>ble4 ,x 0 ! ri* decorative effect ( su* mat]ials no d\bt :i* sugge/$ to ! ,mah>ajah ( ,jaipur ! pa9t+ ( 8 t[n r$1 :i* ,i ref] to 9 a previ\s *apt]1 b ! reality comp>$ ) ! imitation is z w9e to wat]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,taj ,,mahal1 ,,f ,,! ,,gateway ,! ,taj fir/ impresses "o by its beautiful proportion1 & ! complet5ess ( its ensemble4 ,x is l a fair woman ^: g5]al c>riage & aspect *>ms ! eye be=e we are ne> en\gh to appreciate ! full beauty ( h] face & =m1 or to note ! exquisite ta/e ( h] delicate attire4 ,z "o approa*es ?is wond]ful %r9e :i*1 al?\gh s ornate1 possesses a f9e bread? 9 g5]al effect1 ! beauty & f9i% ( its decorative detail excites a new admiration4 ,!re are delicate designs ( lilies & tulips & cr[n imp]ials cut 9 m>ble 9 l[ relief1 =m+ ! panell+ ( ! l[] walls4 ,^! are fram$ 9 small-scale1 =mal floral designs1 inlaid ) preci\s /ones1 su* z jasp]1 coral1 blood/one1 s>donyx1 lapis-lazuli1 onyx1 turquoise1 & o!r k9ds done 9 a mann] associat$ ) ,flor5t9e "w1 & x is said ,italian workm5 7 employ$ "h4 ,!n we h ! cr[n+ beauty ( ! pi]c$ "w 9 ! m>ble scre5s :i* enclose ! tombs1 & break ! brilliant light at ! ap]tures "u ! dome4 ,^! are ! jewell]y & lace ( ?is ar*itectural p]sonality4 ,!re is some?+ ( ! f9e lady ab\t h]--if "o may use ! p]sonal pron\n1 b "o _c =get ! tw5ty ?\s& workm5 ^: tw5ty-two ye>s' toil contribut$ to h] spl5d\r2 & x is record$1 too1 t _! "w 0 done "u conditions ( semi-/>vation1 & at ! price ( _m lives1 ov] & above ! f\r millions ( money at :i* ! co/ is usually e/imat$4 ,well1 x rema9s _! monum5t z well z t ( ,%ah ,jehan & 8 wife ,arjam& ,banu3 #afdh is ! date ( ! completion ( ! ,taj4 ,i 0 some:at disappo9t$ n to f9d ! ea/]n g>d5 describ$ by ,edw9 ,arnold1 & :i* 0 se5 "h by ,mr ,w4 ,s4 ,ca9e--a b[]y1 romantic g>d5 full ( fruit trees--8orange & lemon1 pomeloes1 pomegranates1 palms1 fl[]+ %rubs & trees1 ) m>ble fi%-ponds & f\nta9s1 speak+ ( ! ,ea/ 9 e :isp] ( _! leaves & pla% ( _! wat]s40 ,!re is /ill a *>m+ g>d51 b an ,anglicis$ "o1 ) op5 lawns1 brok5 by masses ( beautiful & v>i$ b r consci\sly & pr(essionally arrang$ trees & %rubs & palms4 ,! h& & ta/e ( ! mod]n g>d5] is a little too evid5t4 ,x looks z if ! orig9al some:at wild & *>act]i/ic ,ea/]n g>d5 _h be5 tak5 9 h& by an exp]t f ,kew1 & x _h be5 tam$1 its wild locks cut (f1 & ! rema9d] comb$ & bru%$4 ,!re is an ,engli% c\ntry-seat or ev5 suburban sugge/ion ab\t x 9 p>ts4 ,i _c b ?9k t x 0 a pity n to ma9ta9 ! g>d5 9 its ,ea/]n "*1 consid]+ ! monum5t x encloses4 ,h[ev]1 x w\ld take ev5 m pr(essional treatm5t to prev5t beautiful trees & fl[]s f be+ delightful4 ,! g>d5 is /ill a pleasant place to w&] 91 & int]e/+ views ( ! :ite domes & m9>ets1 ris+ above masses ( foliage1 c be _h ev]y:]e 9 x4 ,"h1 at ! end ( ,decemb]1 "o enjoy$ ! temp]ature1 & ! sun%9e1 temp]$ by ! %ade ( trees1 ( a normal ,june day 9 ,engl&4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,ma9/ay ,,( ,,india4 ,,aqu>ius--,,! ,,wat]-,,be>] ,z reg>ds ! g>d51 ,i 0 told t :5 x 0 9 its orig9al /ate z a fruit g>d5 a c]ta9 am\nt ( rev5ue 0 realis$ by ! sale ( ! produce4 ,:5 ,"l ,curzon he>d ( ?is he consid]$ x n fitt+1 & ,i und]/ood t he 0 responsible = ! alt]ation 9 ! "* ( ! g>d51 :i* requires ! con/ant att5tion ( ! wat]-be>] ) 8 goatsk94 ,agra possesses a f9e mosque 9 ! ,jama ,musjid1 built by ,%ah ,jehan 9 #afdd4 ,x is a build+ ( r$ s&/one & :ite m>ble4 ,! big dome is inlaid 9 zigzags ( :ite m>ble & r$ s&/one alt]nately1 ! :ole surface be+ cov]$ 9 ?is way ) /rik+ effect4 ,x is an int]e/+ drive ?r\gh ! baza>s & ov] ! bridge ( boats across ! riv] ,jumna1 & ?r\gh a native village1 to ! mausoleum ( ,itmad-ud-,daulat4 ,9 ?is beautiful build+1 :i* is approa*$ ?r\gh a massive ar*$ gateway ( r$ s&/one & across a wall$ g>d51 "o sees a prototype ( ! ,taj ,mahal4 ,9 ?is case !re is a c5tral dome & f\r m9>ets1 only ! cupola is l[] & ( a flatt] curve1 & ! m9>ets are n deta*$ f ! body ( ! build+ :i* is mu* l[] ?an ! ,taj4 ,9 ! design & execution ( its decorative detail1 h[ev]1 x surpasses ! ,taj 9 inv5tiv5ess1 & v>iety & ri*ness1 bo? 9 pi]c$ & c>v$ "w & its pietra dura4 ,! detail ( ! ,taj1 beautiful & f9ely f9i%$ z x is1 has 9 comp>ison1 p]haps1 r ! look ( hav+ be5 done to ord]1 :]eas 9 build+s ( e>li] date l ?is "o we seem to see ! m spontane\s inv5tion ( ! craftsman4 ,! re/or+ h& ( ,"l ,curzon1 h[ev]1 has t\*$ ?is monum5t also1 & a new m>ble balu/rade ar\nd ! flat ro( has be5 add$ "u 8 ord]s4 ,!re are lovely views f ! m9>ets4 ,we visit$ ! ,taj ,mahal aga9 by moonlight4 ,x 0 ! #cj? ( ,decemb] & ! moon 0 full1 b x 0 *illy driv+ out aft] d9n] & wraps 7 necess>y4 ,!re 0 a light mi/ f ! riv] :i* hung ov] ! g>d51 & slightly veil$ ! l[] "p ( ! build+ z we approa*$ x d[n "o ( ! long pa?s *equ]$ by ! %ad[s ( ! trees4 ,! front 0 9 %ad[ & look$ my/]i\s 9 ! mi/1 b ! dome seem$ made ( pe>l r\nd$ 9 ! full moonlight 9 spl5did relief aga9/ ! d>k deep blue ( ! night p[d]$ ) brilliant />s1 :ile ! f\r m9>ets 7 l helmet$ s5t9els 9 %9+ arm\r1 gu>d+ ! sacr$ %r9e4 ,! moonlight 0 bright en\gh = me to make a sket* by4 ,i also made two col\r$ draw+s ( ! ,taj by daylight1 "o ( :i*--8! ,taj ,mahal f ! rose g>d50 0 aft]w>ds pur*as$ by ,h4,m4 ,! ,que51 & ! o!r1 f ! gate1 is reproduc$ "h4 ,agra 0 full ( ,briti% & native soldi]s1 & m 7 cont9ually arriv+4 ,we pass$ tra9s ( field artill]y m>*+ ?r\gh ! gov]nm5t g>d5s1 & bell t5ts cov]$ ! gr\nd l mu%rooms4 ,9 _m places e>? banks _h be5 cut 9 ti]s = seats1 & /r+s ( small flags flutt]$ across _m ( ! /reets1 & !re 7 also seats & /&s ( timb] be+ erect$4 ,agra c\ld ?9k ( no?+ b ! ,amir4 ,! ,engli% & o!r *ur*es are n admirable examples ( mod]n ar*itecture1 & nev] seem to look at home 9 ,india4 ,!re 0 a ,roman ,ca?olic ,*ur* "h aft] ! mann] ( an eighte5? c5tury "o1 b any m]it x might h _h 0 obscur$ by its col\r4 ,x _h be51 s to speak1 put into a grey uni=m ) buff fac+s4 ,! ,engli% ,*ur* 0 treat$ 9 ! same way4 ,?is mu/ be milit>y influ5ce4 ,my impression c]ta9ly 0 t civilians did n c\nt = mu* at ,agra4 ,9 ! baza>s we f\nd we 7 able to make pur*ases ) r less accompanim5t ( drama ?an at ,jaipur4 ,european goods 7 mu* 9 evid5ce1 ( ! *eap & na/y sort z a rule1 ugly socks & sc>ves & cottons1 & t9 w>e4 ,i saw a cr[d ( natives clu/]+ r\nd ! trumpet m\? ( a gramophone--an in/rum5t :i* seems to h consid]able *>ms = !m4 ,x 0 *illy en\gh 9 ! e>ly morn+s & 9 ! ev5+s at ,agra1 & our gr\nd-floor rooms 7 none ( ! w>me/1 al?\gh1 ( c\rse1 ! sun 0 v p[]ful 9 ! middle ( ! day4 ,! ,hotel proprietors 7 look+ =w>d to full h\ses & high prices dur+ ! ,amir's visit1 & enorm\s sums 7 m5tion$ z probable *>ges = rooms1 b we _h no int5tion ( /ay+ ?r\gh ! fe/ivities4 ,our la/ excursion f ,agra 0 to ,sik&ra--five miles away to ! ,nor? ,we/--:]e we drove to see ! tomb ( ,akb>4 ,! road 0 a du/y "o1 b ?r\gh pleasant acacia av5ues4 ,we pass$ ?r\gh sev]al mud-built villages1 & pres5tly saw :ite m9>ets ris+ above a belt ( trees 9 ! di/ance4 ,at "o "p ( ! road :]e ! squ>e t[] ( an ,engli% ,mission ,*ur* 0 se5 among trees we 7 rem9d$ = a mom5t ( a bit ( ,norfolk1 b only = a mom5t4 ,soon we rea*$ ! great r$-/one gateway :i* 0 on a spl5did scale1 & elaborately inlaid ) m>ble1 exce$+ly f9e 9 /yle1 p>ts _h be5 re/or$1 & all ! f\r :ite m>ble m9>ets 7 said to be new & plac$ !re by ,"l ,curzon1 n ,i presume )\t good evid5ce ( ! =m] exi/5ce ( su* m9>ets1 b su* r5ewals _c possess any hi/oric int]e/ & are 9 d\btful ta/e4 ,! gate 0 adorn$ ) ,togra & ,arabic inscriptions1 :i*1 cut 9 sunk relief 9 :ite m>ble1 =m$ a frame "w enclos+ panels ( l>g] patt]n 9 m>ble inlay4 ,pila/]s ( r$ s&/one on ! front 7 9 zigzag c\rses1 alt]nately :ite & r$1 l ! "w on ! dome ( ! ,jama ,musjid at ,agra4 ,f ! gateway a long & broad flagg$ way1 int]sect$ by tanks1 l$ u up to ! tomb1 across a wide p>k full ( f9e trees1 tam>9ds & mangoes *iefly4 ,arriv$ at ! great tomb1 ! cupolas ( :i* we _h se5 9 front ( u z we walk$1 we fir/ ent]$ a sort ( hall or atrium ) ri*ly decorat$ ro( & walls 9 col\r$ pla/]1 height5$ ) gold1 & ) an ,arabic text 9 gold runn+ r\nd ! frieze4 ,!re 7 beautiful designs ( trees & v9es 9 panels4 ,p>ts _h be5 pick$ out 9 new gold & col\r1 at somebody's exp5se1 to br+ out ! patt]n1 b ! new "w look$ h>d & me*anical ?\gh on good l9es1 & ! new gold 0 />+2 ! effect ( ?is p>tial re/oration be+ ( c\rse pat*y4 ,/ill1 if su* re/orations are all[able at all1 x is bett] t !y %\ld be frank & make no pret5ce at be+ really a "p ( ! orig9al "w4 ,x w\ld1 h[ev]1 9 ?is case h be5 f> bett] to h left x alone1 z ! old gold & col\r /ill rema9+ on ! walls & vault 0 ri* & deep 9 tone4 ,f ?is hall we ent]$ a small corridor1 two native att5dants go+ be=e u ) lant]ns to guide our /eps4 ,?is passage l$ into a va/ d>k dom$ *amb]1 9 ! mid/ ( :i* 0 ! pla9 m>ble tomb ( ! great ,akb>4 ,x 0 impressive 9 its simplicity1 )\t any inscription or ornam5t1 ! usual n>r[ p>allelogram ) a m\ld$ base4 ,"o ( ! m5 utt]$ a deep prolong$ note l ! exclamation ,ah6 b su/a9$ & dwell+ on ! ,a4 ,?is 0 answ]$ by a pr(\nd & long-cont9u$ e*o or rev]b]ation1 dy+ gradually away1 caus$ ,i suppose by ! height & %ape ( ! dome4 ,"o might imag9e x 0 ! voice ( ! dead ,emp]or4 ,aft] see+ ?ree m tombs1 "o ( :i* 0 ri*ly & delicately c>v$ 7a lady's71 we asc5d$ to ! t]rac$ ro(1 & f !re to a second arcad$ t]race1 f :i* /ill a ?ird 0 rea*$ up /eps ( ev] increas+ height 9 ! treads1 & f9ally to a top /ory1 em]g+ ^u a beautiful spaci\s arcad$ c\rt ( :ite m>ble1 b ) w>m t9ts 9 x :i* made x v mu* ! tone ( ivory4 ,!re 7 delicate1 pi]c$1 m>ble scre5s on ea* side1 ?r\gh :i* ! ev5+ sun sp>kl$ l gold4 ,9 ! c5tre ( ! c\rt on a rais$ dais 0 ! second tomb ( ,akb>1 accord+ to ! usual ,mohamm$an cu/om ( plac+ an upp] tomb/one to indicate ! position ( ! actual tomb 9 ! vault bel[4 ,?is tomb 0 mo/ elaborately & delicately c>v$ 9 :ite m>ble1 ) beautifully design$ floral patt]ns & ,arabic texts & bord]s ( scroll "w1 :i* 7 l reproductions 9 m>ble relief ( ! designs 9 ! be/ type ( ,p]sian c>pets4 ,! ag$ native cu/odians told u t ! fam\s koh-i-noor diamond 0 once "h on ,akb>'s tomb4 ,x might be int]e/+ to trace its hi/ory to its pres5t position4 ,! foliat$ cre/+ ( ! p>apet ( ?is m>ble c\rt 0 also delicately c>v$4 ,altoge!r ! build+ 0 "o ( ! f9e/ ?+s ( its type we _h yet se5 9 ,india4 ,! bl5d ( ,h9du con/ruction ) ,mogul "w 9 ! corbell$ supports ( ! m9>ets 0 noticeable4 ,^! corbels 7 trebl$ at ! angles1 & l mo/ ( ! build+ 7 ( r$ s&/one4 ,!re 0 a f9e view ( ! c\ntry f ?is highe/ /ory ( ! tomb1 & we c\ld ev5 see ! :ite dome ( ! ,taj ,mahal five or six miles away4 ,! drive f ,agra took ab\t an h\r1 & ! sun _h set be=e we return$4 ,?is be+ ,new ,ye>'s day ,moonsawmy our be>] smil+ly came up ) an (f]+--a plum cake ) a p9k sug>$ top & 8,a ,happy ,new ,ye>0 on x1 z if x _h come out ( an ,engli% confection]'s--& ?is1 too1 0 accompani$ by a g>l& ( yell[ & :ite fl[]s aft] ! native mann]--"o = ea* ( u4 ,he said ?is 0 cu/om>y1 & ) 8 good wi%es he manag$ to convey a g5tle h9t t 8 8j5tilm5s0 usually made him a little pres5t 9 return4 ,?is r rubb$ a little ( ! sug> (f1 b1 ( c\rse1 we did n =get him4 ,he 0 n a bad s]vant on ! :ole1 ?\gh r too old & cunn+ a bird 9 "s ways4 ,he _h r extravagant ideas 9 ord]+ c>riages1 :i* we aft]w>ds discov]$ 7 n totally unconnect$ ) c]ta9 commissions extract$ f ! c>riage proprietors4 ,no d\bt1 h[ev]1 native be>]s reg>d ! ,european t\ri/ z fair game--x is n unhe>d ( 9 ,europe--& !y1 l o!r classes aft] _! mann]1 lose no opportunity ( mak+ ! mo/ ( ! *ances ( _! r unc]ta9 pr(ession4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,gwalior ,we left ,agra = ,gwalior on ! #bnd ( ,janu>y4 ,dep>t+ f ,agra ,road ab\t #aa 9 ! morn+ we arriv$ at ,gwalior betwe5 #c & #d o'clock 9 ! aft]noon4 ,we hop$ to meet an ,indian fri5d "h1 :o 0 a doctor 9 ! suite ( ! ,mah>ajah1 & :om we _h kn[n 9 ,london :5 he 0 /udy+ = 8 degree4 ,he 01 h[ev]1 abs5t at ,calcutta1 s we _h to %ift = ourselves4 ,!re 01 h[ev]1 an excell5t gue/-h\se built by ! ,mah>ajah = ! use ( visitors to ,gwalior1 n f> f ! /ation1 :]e we f\nd com=table qu>t]s1 v sup]ior to mo/ ( ! hotels we _h _h exp]i5ce (4 ,! build+ itself 0 a *>m+ pavilion 9 ! ,mogul /yle1 ) domes1 arcades1 & pi]c$ /one "w balconies1 & elaborately c>v$ doorways1 ! mat]ial ( :i* x 0 built be+ a sort ( yell[ s&/one4 ,we 7 allott$ a spaci\s room op5+ on to a pleasant t]race & connect$ ) balconies :i* ext5d$ entirely ar\nd ! h\se1 & f "h we c\ld see ! fam\s ,rock ( ,gwalior ) its =t & ,temples & ! old palace ( ,man ,m&ir conspicu\s at its fur!r end4 ,!re 0 a l>ge c5tral hall or liv+ room1 & 9 ?is 0 a blaz+ fire :i* %$ its *e]y light & welcome w>m?4 ,!re 0 a good piano & ,engli% furniture4 ,!re 0 a sort ( cl]e/ory high 9 ! l(ty wall1 b no direct light1 s t 9 ! daytime ?is room 0 9 comp>ative gloom1 by no means ungrateful aft] ! gl>e ( ! sun4 ,! d9+-room 0 fully light$ & op5$ on to a portico4 ,9 front ( ! build+ 0 a g>d5 ) a r burnt up piece ( lawn encircl$ by a c>riage drive4 ,we f\nd a s+ul> sil5t & res]v$ company ( ,anglo-,indians at d9n]--a lady & ?ree g5tleman--only "o ( ! latt] manife/+ ! slighte/ int]e/ 9 u4 ,no "o appe>$ at breakfa/ ! foll[+ morn+ b an ,engli% gov]ness & a *ild %e 0 9 *>ge (4 ,illu/ration3 ,,to ,,gwalior ,,=t ,,by ,,palanqu9 ,we />t$ 9 a c>riage to drive to ! =t1 /opp+ on ! way to see ! tomb ( ,mohamm$ ,ghaus1 ! dome ( :i* is visible f ! gue/-h\se4 ,x is a noble tomb ( yell[ s&/one1 ) f9e scre5-"w4 ,x dates f ! e>ly "p ( ,akb>'s reign4 ,we cross$ a riv] by a bridge & ent]$ a decay$-look+ native t[n1 pass+ up a /raggl+ /reet ( l[ h\ses to ! fir/ gate ( ! =tress4 ,!re we might h hir$ an elephant to take u up ! /eep road to ! =t1 b ! elephant _h be5 already bespoke by a p>ty ( ,briti% (fic]s4 ,a palanqu9 7or jhampan7 0 produc$1 h[ev]1 9 :i* my wife seat$ h]self & 0 c>ri$ up ! hill by f\r be>]s1 f\r m accompany+ !m z relays4 ,z = me ,i pref]r$ to walk up1 & our ,moonsawmy w5t ) u4 ,we pass$ ?r\gh sev]al gateways4 ,! ,h9du c>v+s ( "o call$ ! ,gane%a ,gate _h be5 defac$ by ! ,mohamm$ans4 ,soon ! t[]s ( ! old palace ( ,man ,m&ir rose 9 view ne> ! summit1 ea* cr[n$ ) a circul> cupola4 ,x is a /rik+ build+ ( rem>kable "* 9 r$di%-yell[ s&/one1 fac$ 9 p>ts by turquoise blue & yell[ tiles1 c\rses ( ^! tiles runn+ across ! faade4 ,! angle t[] & "s ( ! tile-"w at ! top _h be5 re/or$4 ,!re 0 a frieze ( geese 9 yell[ on a turquoise-blue gr\nd1 ! birds 9 pr(ile1 ea* %[+ an exp&$ w+ & set close toge!r4 ,! design resembl$ ! c>v$ figures ( birds (t5 se5 on ! ,ja9 temples4 ,! ar*itecture "h be+ ,h9du1 0 mu* m massive ?an ! ,mogul "w hi!rto se51 & %[$ mu* v>iety & inv5tion 9 ! c>v$ corbels & brackets 9 ! int]ior4 ,i made a note ( a peacock bracket 9 :i* ! tail is effectively treat$1 ! bird be+ consid]ably =malis$ 9 adapt+ x to its ar*itectural purpose4 ,!re 0 ano!r ( a fanta/ic elephant4 ,elephant heads ) _! uplift$ trunks1 by ! way1 7 c>v$ z brackets to support ! balconies at ! ,gue/ ,h\se1 :]e also ,i not$ t ! detail ( "s ( ! c>v$ "w ( ! door heads at ! old palace _h be5 reproduc$4 ,! doorways 7 r l[ & small1 & ! :ole build+ _h m ! "* ( a ca/le ?an a palace4 ,on ! flat table l& on ! summit ( ! rock !re 7 sev]al ,ja9 temples1 masses ( c>v+ )9 & )\t4 ,! ,sas ,bahu is ! pr9cipal ,ja9 temple1 & !re is also a ,h9du temple on ! rock--ne> ! f>!r end f ,man ,m&ir--! ,teli-ka ,m&ir4 ,?is /&s 9 a gravey>d1 full ( c>v$ fragm5ts & upright /ones4 ,! elephant be>+ ! p>ty ( ,briti% (fic]s pass$ u z we 7 explor+ ! temples4 ,!re are "s ugly b>racks1 :i* are v mu* out ( keep+ ) ! hi/oric ar*itecture ( ! ,rock4 ,! old =t has /ood _m a siege4 ,ca9e calls x 8! cockpit ( ,c5tral ,india10 & 8x has be5 /orm$ or />v$ into submission a doz5 times at lea/40 ,x seems to h be5 orig9ally =tifi$ 9 #ggc ,a4,d41 & at v>i\s p]iods s9ce to h alt]nately fall5 into ! h&s ( ,h9du or ,mussulman1 z n[ "o & n[ ! o!r prevail$4 ,akb> ! ,great took x 9 #aeef1 & we f9d ! ,ea/ ,india ,company 9 possession 9 #aghj1 :o took x f ,s9dhia & gave x to ! ,rana ( ,gohad4 ,!n ,s9dhia retook x1 & s x has rema9$ ) ! ,s9dhias 7to :i* family ! pres5t ,mah>ajah belongs7 practically ev] s9ce4 ,! ,rock has always be5 well suppli$ ) wat] & has _m tanks4 ,we _h a comm&+ prospect ( ! c\ntry1 /ret*+ 9 a va/ pla9 = miles ar\nd4 ,we c\ld see ! ,mah>ajah's palace amid/ its p>ks & g>d5s--a :ite build+ among ! gre5 foliage1 & ne>] ! foot ( ! ,rock ! new t[n ( ,gwalior1 call$ ,la%k>4 ,we desc5d$ on ! f>!r 7nor!rn7 side ( ! rock by a w9d+ road1 & f "h we saw "s huge c>v$ figures cut 9 ! face ( ! s&/one cliffs 9 bold relief4 ,mo/ ( ^! are said to repres5t ,ad9a?1 ! fir/ ,ja9 pontiff1 b !re is a seat$ figure ( ,nemna?1 ! tw5ty-second pontiff4 ,ea* be> _! symbols1 t ( ! fir/ be+ a bull & ( ! second a %ell4 ,!re are life-size z well z small figures cut on ! l[] p>ts ( ! cliff4 ,! effect ( ^! /range c>v+s is v weird4 ,!y h an imp]sonal & unrelat$ look1 & give "o ! impression ( be+ m anci5t ?an !y really are2 b !y only date f ,a4,d4 #adda to #adgd4 ,we f\nd our c>riage wait+ = u at ! foot ( ! hill1 hav+ driv5 r\nd ! ,rock f ! old t[n1 & we got back to ! ,gue/ ,h\se ab\t noon4 ,9 ! late aft]noon we drove to ! ,mah>ajah's palace1 & pres5t+ our c>ds1 7 %[n ov] ! rooms by a v polite ,engli% (fic]4 ,! build+ is 9 a sort ( late ,italian ,r5aissance /yle1 all :ite outside1 ) a great display ( pila/]s & column$ porticoes4 ,we ent]$ a va/ durb> hall 9 :ite & gold1 ) mod]n ,fr5*-look+ furniture ) curly legs uphol/]$ 9 gre54 ,!re 7 _m photographs ( rec5t ,engli% ,gov]nor-,g5]als on ! walls1 z well z indiff]5t full-l5g?1 life-siz$ portraits 9 oil ( ! late ,mah>ajah4 ,! be/ ( ^! 0 said to h be5 pa9t$ by "o ,scott--a l&scape pa9t] 7674 ,9 "o ( ! small] rooms !re 0 an ,engli% wat]-col\r draw+ ( ,sussex ,d[ns by ,a4 ,f4 ,grace 7:om ,i rememb] at ,hea!rly's 9 /ud5t days71 & sev]al photographic (ficial gr\ps ( ! usual type1 9 :i* ! ,mah>ajah is seat$ by ! ,pr9ce ( ,wales1 surr\nd$ by r[s ( (ficials & notabilities1 all ) 8eyes front40 ,we wrote our names 9 ! visitors' book1 & !n drove ?r\gh ! gr\nds1 :i* are v ext5sive4 ,9 "o "p lions are kept--app>5tly 9 a mo/ insecure way1 z !y n unfrequ5tly escape & ravage ! c\ntry r\nd4 ,9 fact1 ?is _h q rec5tly happ5$1 & natives _h be5 kill$ by !m4 ,a v taciturn g5tleman at ! ,gue/ ,h\se _h be5 po9t$ out to u by ! m g5ial ( our fell[-c\ntrym5 !re z ! (ficial :o _h be5 s5t by ! ,mah>ajah to fet* ! w&]+ lions back1 & he _h be5 ov] a di/ance ( ab\t ?ree hundr$ miles be=e he succe$$ 9 8r\nd+ !m up40 ,he did n tell u1 h[ev]1 h[ x 0 done1 ?\gh he _h a look z ( "o :o 8c\ld a tale unfold0--n to speak ( a lion's tail6 ,:5 we saw ! place :]e ^! lions 7 kept we 7 n surpris$ t !y %\ld h be5 able to escape if !y _h a m9d to4 ,we look$ d[n on !m z !y 7 gnaw+ "s bones4 ,!y 7 loose 9 a sort ( op5 c\rt1 ov]gr[n ) grass1 & enclos$ )9 f\r pla/]$ walls :i* any cat c\ld h scal$1 no palisad+ or iron rail+ at ! top4 ,!re 7 five lions & "o lioness visible4 ,! rema9s ( _! repa/ ( meat 0 p\nc$ on by kites & cr[s ) mu* clam\r4 ,we next saw ! ,mah>ajah's elephants1 & pass$ d[n a long l9e ( !m1 *a9$ by ! =e-legs1 d[n "o side ( an op5 c\rty>d1 all eat+ :at look$ l ! /alks ( ,indian corn4 ,!re 7 ab\t ?irty elephants "h4 ,"o ( !m 0 h&somely pa9t$ on ! =ehead 9 a simil> way to ! /ate elephant we saw at ,jaipur1 b none ( !m _h q su* big tusks4 ,return+ ?r\gh ! g>d5s1 we pass$ ! old] palace2 also a :ite build+1 b 9 ! ,mogul /yle1 ) _m domes & m9>ets1 & fac+ a l>ge tank ) m>ble /eps4 ,our p>ty at ! ,gue/ ,h\se 0 increas$ at d9n] by two v pleasant ,am]ican ladies1 :o1 ow+ to _! p[]s ( conv]sation1 caus$ ! v res]v$ ,anglo-,indians to melt a little & %[ "s signs ( human int]e/1 especially :5 "o ( ! ladies relat$ h] ?rill+ exp]i5ces dur+ ! ,san ,francisco e>?quake4 ,! next morn+ we visit$ ! new] city ( ,gwalior1 :i* we _h se5 f ! =t4 ,! /reets 7 fairly wide1 & "s _h v>i$ & picturesque fronts 9 pla/]-"w4 ,we 7 driv5 to ! gate ( a big & r new ,h9du temple1 spoil$ by ! ins]tion ( crude pieces ( col\r$ glass1 ( ! commone/ ,european make1 9 ! fan-lights ( ! doors on ea* side4 ,a sacr$ bull ( black m>ble & a snake feti% 7 ! mo/ int]e/+ ?+s !re4 ,9 ! same c\rt 0 an old] temple rais$ on a flight ( /eps4 ,to approa* ?is1 "o's %oes _h to be tak5 (f1 & f ! door only a peep 0 all[$ into ! d>k int]ior1 :i*1 z f> z ,i c\ld see 0 pa9t$ all ov] ) figures ( deities & emblems 9 a b>b>ic way 9 co>se & crude col\rs4 ,! ?+ to look at1 x appe>$1 0 a portrait ( ! late ,mah>ajah 9 8 jewels1 on :at we %\ld call ! high alt>1 :i* 0 sudd5ly illum9at$ by artificial light by "o ( ! native att5dants4 ,zebu c[s 7 w&]+ freely ab\t 9 ! c\rt ( ! temple1 & "h = a wond] no fees 7 tak54 ,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,! ,,baza>1 ,,gwalior ,we w5t into ! new m>ket1 :i* _h be5 op5$ by ! ,pr9ce ( ,wales on 8 visit ! previ\s ye>4 ,x 0 n1 h[ev]1 v busy1 & _m ( ! /alls 7 empty4 ,x seem$ ( d\btful advantage to ! natives1 :o pref]r$ to d bus9ess 9 ! baza>s4 ,!re appe>$ to be a good supply ( fre% vegetables1 b v few buy]s4 ,! mo/ int]e/+ /alls 7 ^? ( ! bead sell]s4 ,!re 7 beads ( e v>iety ( col\r & size4 ,! /alls 7 ab\t ! height ( ord9>y %op-c\nt]s1 & on ^! plat=ms1 :i* ext5d$ )\t divisions along ! c5tre & sides ( ! m>ket hall1 ! native trad]s squatt$ ) _! w>es 9 front ( !m1 wom5 z well z m54 ,"s ( !m 7 engag$ 9 /r++ ! beads1 & "o man 0 plait+ a cord1 ! /r&s ( :i* 7 fix$ to a hook fix$ on an upright /ick support$ on a /&4 ,he us$ 8 toes l f+]s to hold out & divide ! /r&s z he work$4 ,) ! assi/ance ( our be>] we made "s pur*ases1 & aga9 lat] 9 ! baza>1 :51 z ! c>riage 0 /opp$1 ,i made a sket* ( ! sc5e 9 front ( u1 b "u difficulties1 z we 7 imm$iately surr\nd$ on all sides by an eag] conc\rse ( sw>?y1 int]e/$ spectators1 :o refus$ to budge 9 spite ( ! r mild remon/rances or comm&s ( a native policeman1 :o1 ,i imag9e1 us$ ! ,h9du equival5t = 8,pass along0 or 8,move on10 b !y didn't4 ,"u ?is 8cr[d ( witnesses0 ,i endeav\r$ to complete my sket*1 & !n we mov$ on4 ,ext5d+ our drive on ! ,mor> ,road1 we pass$ ! camp ( ! ,mah>ajah's soldi]s 9 wait+ = ! ,amir's com+1 z aft] ! ,agra reception 0 ov] he 0 to pay a visit to ! palace at ,gwalior = tig]-%oot+4 ,we enjoy$ a quiet life at ,gwalior1 & ,i 0 able to make sev]al draw+s unh9d]$ by too curi\s cr[ds4 ,! ,gue/ ,h\se 0 "o ( ! quiete/ places imag9able1 al?\gh visitors came & w5t & ev5 motor-c>s 7 se54 ,!re 0 some?+ almo/ my/]i\s 9 ! way gue/s w\ld appe> & disappe>--at table "o day & vani%$ ! next2 cov]s w\ld be laid too = gue/s :o nev] appe>$4 ,t5ts :i* 7 pit*$ on ! gr\nd outside ! ,gue/ ,h\se = o!r unse5 visitors w\ld be clean gone z we look$ out 9 ! morn+4 ,ev]y?+ seem$ s transitory2 ev5 a native boy1 :5 ,i want$ to make a draw+ ( him1 0 n[h]e to be f\nd1 & ,i _h to make ! be/ ( x ) an unwill+ & q inf]ior sub/itute1 :o _h no idea ( keep+ /ill1 & ev5 end$ ! seance by squatt+ on ! gr\nd ) 8 back to "o6 ,x /ruck me t ! natives d n l be+ drawn or pa9t$1 z a rule1 to judge by ! v>i\s attempts "o made to secure models4 ,! "o want$ always disappe>$ :5 ! "t came1 & ano!r1 b n a bett] & )\t ! same *>act]i/ics1 (f]$4 ,! little palm squirrels 7 v num]\s "h1 & w\ld scamp] ab\t ! t]races & balconies ( ! ,gue/ ,h\se1 & ev5 *ase ea* o!r into our rooms1 or come up = ! crumbs we scatt]$1 sitt+ up on _! haun*es to nibble at !m1 held 9 _! =e-paws 9 true squirrel fa%ion4 ,equally famili> 7 ! sp>r[s :i* flew 9 & out1 unmole/$ & fe>less1 ev5 p]*+ sometimes on ! breakfa/ table4 ,! cr[s too w\ld congregate on ! balcony rails if any fe$+ 0 go+ on1 frequ5tly jo9+ u at aft]noon tea1 at a respectful di/ance1 ?\gh )9 %ort range ( ! scatt]$ crumbs4 ,illu/ration3 ,,call]s ,,at ,,! ,,gue/ ,,h\se1 ,,gwalior ,we witness$ sev]al v lovely sunsets ov] ! ,rock ( ,gwalior1 a type ( frequ5t occurr5ce be+ an arrangem5t ( long1 l[ /ratus cl\ds1 brilliantly illum9at$ on _! "u edges z ! sun sank bel[ ! horizon1 ! light deep5+ f orange into crimson4 ,ano!r type consi/$ ( gold5 fleeces ( high cirrus cl\ds1 rippl+ out ov] spaces ( turquoise4 ,we paid ano!r visit to ! old t[n ( ,gwalior & climb$ ! hill z f> z ! ?ird gate1 :]e ,i made a sket* %[+ ! t[]s ( ! ,man ,m&ir ,palace ?r\gh ! ar*4 ,f a t]race ext5d+ along ! hill ne> ?is gate !re is a f9e panoramic view1 ! old t[n ly+ bel[1 p>tly ru9$ & des]t$1 a mass ( crumbl+ walls & complicat$ ro( plans m+l$ ) trees & g>d5s4 ,! fir/ gate at ! foot ( ! hill1 :]e is ! gu>d-h\se1 is int]e/+ z %[+ ! inlaid enamell$ tile-"w :i* decorates x p>tially4 ,deep turquoise is ! prevail+ col\r1 & x is us$ = ! field or backgr\nd ( ! designs1 & is inlaid 9 pieces cut to fit ! int]/ices ( ! patt]n 9 ! yell[ s&/one4 ,9 a frieze ( geese 9 close =mal procession1 ! birds 7 cut 9 sunk relief1 & ! spaces betwe5 7 fill$ ) turquoise pieces4 ,! tile decoration on ! ,man ,m&ir ,palace has be5 done 9 ! same way1 yell[ & gre5 tiles be+ also us$4 ,we drove ?r\gh ! baza> ( ! old t[n1 a que]1 half-ru9$1 & ragg$ place1 b exce$+ly picturesque1 ! natives squatt+ on _! /alls1 presid+ ov] curi\s prep>ations ( food & o!r w>es1 ) *att+1 _m-col\r$ gr\ps cr[d+ ar\nd4 ,"s ( ! p w\ld look curi\sly at u1 "s w\ld salaam1 "s 7 indiff]5t1 o!rs 7 d]isive or sull54 ,illu/ration3 ,,approa* ,,to ,,! ,,palace ,,( ,,man ,,m&ir1 ,,gwalior ,!re 0 r an important-look+ mosque ) m9>ets 9 ! t[n1 b _m ( ! h\ses 7 ro(less & des]t$4 ,9 cross+ ! bridge ov] ! riv] we not$ ! p wa%+ clo!s1 & a pretty patt]n ( col\r 0 =m$ :5 ! /uffs 7 spread out ov] ! s&banks to dry4 ,"h1 9 c5tral ,india1 we 7 able to see m ( ! ev]yday life ( ! p1 & _h m opportunities ( quiet obs]vation ( c\ntry life ?an usual4 ,! peasants did n seem to h ! curiosity ( ! natives 9 ! t[ns1 :5 "o sat d[n to make a draw+1 b !y w5t on _! way1 be>+ _! burd5s1 or driv+ ox-c>ts1 or h]ds ( goats1 or buffalo c[s1 or asses4 ,x 0 q a *ange to get a grey cl\dy effect :i* occurr$ "o morn+ :5 ,i _h f\nd an int]e/+ subject by ! riv] side4 ,on ! way ?i!r we pass$ a village burn+-place1 /rewn ) heaps ( a%es :]e ! dead _h be5 burn$4 ,! riv] _h %runk to a small1 %all[ /ream1 & at ! spot :]e ,i sat 0 cross$ by /epp+-/ones1 ov] :i* gr\ps ( natives con/antly pass$ to & fro4 ,cattle & ox-c>ts spla%$ ?r\gh a %all[ =d at int]vals1 & high] up natives ba!d _! br[n bodies 9 ! wat]4 ,we 7 on ! outskirts ( ! old t[n ( ,gwalior1 & c\ld see above on ! rock ! d>k %apes ( ! ,ja9 temples loom+ up aga9/ ! sky1 :ile ar\nd u 7 domes ( c5otaphs1 fragm5ts ( tombs1 & brok5 walls1 ov]%ad[$ by gr\ps ( f9e banyan trees & mangoes4 ,at an old draw-well ne> by gr\ps ( native wom5 7 cont9ually com+ & go+1 be>+ _! wat]-j>s on _! heads1 _! drap]ies =m+ delightful s*emes ( col\r4 ,a d>k ?9 ,h9du 9 a :ite turban & wai/-clo? 0 pl\gh+ up 8 small pat* ( l& ne> ! riv] = potatoes1 :i* memb]s ( 8 family work+ ) him 7 prep>+ to s[4 ,!re 7 sev]al sons--y\?s--two wom51 & "s small *ildr51 all work+ on ! l&4 ,i made a note ( ! pl\gh1 a v primitive implem5t1 hav+ a s+le %aft fix$ at a "r angle to ! %>e1 ) a cross-h&le at ! top4 ,?is ! pl\ghman held ) "o h&--8 left--guid+ ! pl\gh1 :ile ) 8 "r he drove a small pair ( zebus "u a yoke1 :o dragg$ x along4 ,! %>e 0 a w$ge-%ap$ piece ( wood1 tipp$ ) iron at ! po9t & along its edge4 ,moonsawmy talk$ to ! man :ile ,i made my notes1 & he told me aft]w>ds t ! pl\ghman nev] manag$ to e>n z mu* z #bjj rupees 9 ! ye>1 ?\gh he & 8 family--,i suppose ab\t t5 or a doz5 all told--7 con/antly at "w4 ,8 pat* ( l& be+ ne> ! riv]1 "o w\ld h ?\ght fav\rable = rais+ crops2 b x appe>$ ! riv] n infrequ5tly 0 completely dry1 & !y 7 h>d put to x = wat] = ! soil4 ,! income ( ! :ole family work$ out at ab\t ?irte5 p\nds a ye> at ! mo/1 :i*1 tak+ into consid]ation t x _h to be ! support ( ab\t a doz5 p1 seem$ n>r[ en\gh1 & "o c\ld easily und]/& t ! slighte/ failure ( ! crops w\ld mean some?+ l fam9e4 ,?is /ate ( ?+s be>s out ! e/imates ( ! av]age income ( ! ,indian ryot1 calculat$ by ! late ,william ,digby1 ,c4,i4,e41 aft] long resid5ce & exp]i5ce 9 ,india1 ! results ( ^: /udy ( ! "q are giv5 9 detail1 f undisput$ au?orities1 9 8 /rik+ "w1 8,prosp]\s ,briti% ,india10 9 :i* is accumulat$ an appall+ mass ( evid5ce1 all po9t+ to ! conclusion t = fam9e %\ld v l>gely be read pov]ty1 :i* is also ! root cause ( bubonic plague4 ,! railways1 ( c\rse1 might convey corn to ! />v+ di/ricts1 b :]e ! p h no money to pay = x !y mu/ />ve all ! same1 ,gov]nm5t relief-works be+ ! only alt]native2 b ?is sort ( relief mu/ (t5 be too late = poor creatures r$uc$ by hung] & too weak to "w4 ,! ord9>y unprejudic$ obs]v] is naturally incl9$ to ask1 ,:y ?is desp]ate pov]ty 9 an indu/ri\s population1 suppos$ to be "u b5efic5t ,briti% rule & adm9i/ration8 ,! answ] mu/ be s\ght 9 ! fact t ?irty millions & upw>ds are annually extract$ f ! c\ntry )\t any equival5t return1 & ?is mu/ necess>ily mean a heavy burd5 ( taxation on ! *ief s\rces ( weal?1 l& & lab\r4 ,"o ( ! greate/ pr9ciples ( our ,con/itution ( :i* our public m5 are nev] tir$ ( boa/+ is1 8,no taxation )\t repres5tation10 or1 8,taxation & repres5tation mu/ g h& 9 h&40 ,?is pr9ciple is1 h[ev]1 entirely ignor$ 9 ,india1 :]e ,briti% rule is z autocratic z t ( ,russia4 ,is x surpris+ 9 ^! circum/ances t !re %\ld be 8unre/08 ,! educat$ ,h9du or ,mohamm$an--! _m :o come to ,engl& & are tra9$ 9 ,engli% ,univ]sities1 or read = ! ,b>1 or /udy = _! degrees 9 m$ic9e1 feel t !re is no "p or lot = !m 9 ! adm9i/ration ( ! affairs ( _! own c\ntry except 9 a v subord9ate way4 ,i und]/& t ! highe/ ,gov]nm5t po/ a native c atta9 to is ! (fice ( assi/ant-commission]4 ,"t 0 :51 aft] ! great upheaval ( ! ,mut9y--:i* 0 really an attempt to rega9 possession ( ! re9s ( gov]nm5t by ! native pr9ces ( ,oude1 ! pr9ciple ( native repres5tation "u ,briti% adm9i/ration 0 advocat$ by lead+ ,engli% politicians4 ,no?+1 h[ev]1 came ( x1 & ! policy ( ! ,india ,(fice has rema9$ un*ang$ ?r\gh all ! *anges ( p>ty gov]nm5t1 !re be+ no diff]5ce 9 ?is matt] betwe5 ,lib]als & ,cons]vatives4 ,a ,lib]al l ,mr ,john ,morley1 :5 9 (fice z ,indian ,secret>y1 promptly ord]s ! arre/ & deportation )\t trial ( ,indian agitators "u an old law ( ! ,ea/ ,india ,company :i* has nev] be5 ratifi$ by ! ,engli% ,p>liam5t4 ,mr ,laipat ,rai1 h[ev]1 appe>s to be a self-sacrific+ & devot$ advocate ( ! cause ( 8 p1 & z editor c]ta9ly _c h writt5 s /rongly aga9/ ! ,engli% ,gov]nm5t z ,mr ,h4 ,m4 ,hyndman1 :o has = ye>s pa/ d5\nc$ ! conduct ( ! ,india ,(fice1 :ile *all5g+ att5tion to & r$ress ( ! sy/em "u :i* ! p ( ,india are impov]i%$4 ,! att5uat$ pl\ghman :o has be5 ! occasion ( ^! rem>ks 0 a typical figure4 ,look+ on su* figures1 able only to secure a b>e subsi/5ce1 s common ?r\gh\t ,india1 "o _c b feel t all ! magnific5ce & luxury ( ! ,mah>ajahs1 z well z ! heavy burd5 ( ! co/ ( ! ,briti% ,gov]nm5t1 is ma9ta9$ by ! sweat ( ! br[s & ! ceaseless toil ( su* z ^!4 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,delhi ,aft] a /ay ( ab\t a week at ! ,gue/ ,h\se at ,gwalior we took ! road aga91 or r ! railroad1 ,delhi be+ ! next place on our it9]>y4 ,we ?\ght1 h[ev]1 to break ! j\rney = a few h\rs at ,agra1 & get a view ( ! entry ( ! ,amir1 :i* 0 fix$ = ! #i? ( ,janu>y4 ,x 0 a l[]+1 cl\dy morn+ :5 we left our qu>t]s & made = ! railway /ation1 :]e we _h a long wait 9 ! d>kness4 ,an enorm\s ?rong ( natives fill$ ! plat=m1 squatt+ on ! gr\nd or /&+ ab\t 9 gr\ps1 talk+ or sleep+ "u cov]s :i* hid !m f head to foot4 ,mo/ 7 closely wrapp$ up ab\t ! %\ld]s1 clo?s be+ w\nd ov] ! turban1 ev5 s t !y _h g5]ally a top-heavy look ) b>e legs4 ,_! wraps 7 only ( cotton ?\gh1 z a rule1 & did n seem adequate aga9/ ! *ill ( ! morn+4 ,"o little sw>?y man 0 busy writ+1 mak+ entries on %eets ( pap] or p]haps bills ( lad+4 ,he squatt$ on ! plat=m aga9/ "o ( ! pi]s ( ! arcade1 writ+ by ! aid ( a lant]n's light4 ,i notic$ only "o ,european besides ourselves 9 ! ?rong1 & he appe>$ to be an ,engli% (ficial & wore a pi? helmet4 ,at la/ up came ! tra9 f ,jhansi1 & we got 91 a slumb]+ ,engli% (fic] occupy+ "o ( ! b]?s4 ,! sky1 :i* 0 ! only gloomy & ?reat5+ "o we _h exp]i5c$ 9 ,india1 & c]ta9ly look$ lead5 & hopeless en\gh1 soon turn$ to ra91 & "u su* an aspect ! c\ntry look$ desolate 9 ! extreme4 ,! tawny e>? & fuzzy1 dry grass1 sp>se trees ( prickly acacia & scrub bu%es1 ! brok5 hillocks & m\nds ( clay1 look$ m fruitless & =lorn "u ! /eady1 soak+ ra92 gr\ps ( poor c\ntry folk 9 _! ?9 cotton clo?+ huddl$ toge!r1 wait+ at ! /ations we pass$1 or c\ld be se5 spla%+ ?r\gh ! muddy pools to cat* ! tra94 ,ne>+ ,agra1 we saw heavy artill]y tra9s ) field guns trail+ along ! wet roads4 ,troops _h be5 p\r+ into ,agra = "s "t1 & :ile at ,gwalior a native regim5t ( cavalry 7lanc]s7 rode by ! ,gue/ ,h\se1 prec$$ by _! baggage on mules & camels4 ,at ,agra ,road ,/ation ! ra9 0 p\r+ 9 torr5ts4 ,!re is an imm5se1 long1 expos$ plat=m1 along :i* we made our way to cov] "u ! /ation %$1 :i* 0 already cramm$ ) p1 mo/ly ,engli% & ,am]ican visitors1 army (fic]s1 & (ficials4 ,! wea!r be+ q hopeless1 we gave up ! idea ( see+ any?+ ( ! procession1 :i* ( c\rse 0 a milit>y "o1 & !n f9d+ !re 0 a d9+-c> 9 wait+1 we _h a scamp] ?r\gh ! ra9 aga9 d[n ! plat=m to rea* x4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,da% ,,= ,,! ,,d9+-,,c> ,,at ,,agra ,,road ,aft] tiff9 we 7 j 9 "t to cat* a tra9 on to ,delhi--9 fact x _h actually />t$1 b ! c\rte\s /ation-ma/] s5t an (ficial to /op x = u1 & to see u safely 9 ) our baggage4 ,x 0 n[ ne>ly noon1 b our tra91 a sl[ pass5g] "o1 0 n due at ,delhi until #e4cj4 ,! ra9 cont9u$ /eadily1 & damp gr\ps ( natives 7 ga!r$ at ! diff]5t /opp+ /ations 9 v>i\s /ages ( discom=t4 ,!y did n1 h[ev]1 appe> to m9d ! wet s mu* z "o w\ld h expect$1 b swa!d !mselves 9 all sorts ( curi\s wraps up to ! eyes1 leav+ ! legs & feet b>e1 & "s ev5 squatt$ on ! wet gr\nd4 ,! c\ntry 0 aga9 a pla9 = ! mo/ "p1 & ext5sively cultivat$ "u irrigation1 sev]al irrigation canals be+ cross$ by ! railway4 ,gre5 crops ( "y corn seem$ almo/ hidd5 by *>lock1 ! yell[ fields hav+ almo/ ! effect ( our butt]cup mead[s 9 ,may4 ,flocks ( black & :ite cranes 7 se51 z well z a l>ge1 blue1 grey-plumag$ k9d1 :i* are usually se5 9 pairs 9 ! gre5 corn4 ,?ree sup]ior-ca/e ,h9dus got into our comp>tm5t & occupi$ ! cross-b5* at "o end4 ,"o _h a bad c\gh1 b !y kept _! w9d[s op5 & did n seem to m9d draughts4 ,c\ghs & ?roat tr\bles seem$1 inde$1 too common 9 ,india1 & we (t5 he>d di/ress+ c\ghs 9 ! hotels at night4 ,! sky t[>ds ev5+ began to cle> 9 ! we/1 ! :ole solid field ( ra9 cl\d gradually lift+ l a curta91 & ! sun %9+ out :ile ! ra9 cont9u$1 a brilliant ra9b[ appe>$ z if pa9t$ on ! black wall ( cl\d to ! ea/w>d4 ,! l9e passes ?r\gh a "p ( old ,delhi1 a va/ region ( brok5 tombs & ru9$ walls ly+ outside ! walls ( ! pres5t city1 & af> (f we c\ld see ! domes & m9>ets ( ! ,great ,jama ,musjid ,mosque4 ,we got 9 9 good "t1 & collect+ our heavy baggage s5t on f ,gwalior1 drove to ,maid5's ,hotel1 ?r\gh /reets d>k ) ra9 & /&+ 9 pools ( wat]1 a /ormy orange sunset ca/+ a w>m gl[ ov] ev]y?+4 ,! hotel 0 on ! usual ,indian plan1 ) a c5tre & two arcad$ w+s enclos+ a c\rt1 along :i* a s]ies ( gr\nd-floor1 bungal[-l b$- & ba?-rooms ext5d$1 *illy en\gh at ?is "t ( ye> 9 ! morn+s & ev5+s1 especially 9 wet wea!r4 ,! hotel itself 0 "u ,engli% managem5t1 & !re 7 l>ge op5 fires 9 ! d9+-room & salon1 :i* look$ com=table1 & ! cook]y 0 sup]ior to mo/ ( ! o!rs we _h exp]i5c$4 ,lett]s f ,engl& await$ u1 & add$ to our satisfaction4 ,no d\bt ! mails are deliv]$ ) wond]ful regul>ity1 & s long z ! travell] c arrange 8 t\r 9 ord] t 8 lett]s %all meet him at c]ta9 places1 & does n leave be=e ! mail arrives1 no complications occur4 ,x is only :5 lett]s foll[ "o ab\t in/ead ( prec$+ "o t delay & difficulties occur4 ,! next morn+ 7,janu>y #aj7 0 grey1 *ill1 & damp1 :5 we />t$ aft] breakfa/ to see ,delhi4 ,! hotels & ! ,briti% resid5tial qu>t] lie q outside ! native t[n1 z is usually ! case1 amid spaci\s1 p>k-l gr\nds1 "h pleasantly undulat+1 & v>i$ ) g>d5s & f9e gr\ps ( trees4 ,! t[n is wall$1 & has a broad dry dit* z a f>!r def5ce4 ,we drove ?r\gh ! fam\s ,ka%mir ,gate1 r5[n$ = ! ,briti% assault at ! "t ( ! ,mut9y1 :i* rema9s 9 ! batt]$ condition 9 :i* x 0 left aft] ! siege1 ) great %ot-holes 9 its masonry1 z well z 9 ! walls ea* side4 ,a tablet records ! circum/ances ( ! siege1 & ! names ( ! (fic]s & soldi]s :o di/+ui%$ !mselves at t t]rific "t4 ,! gate has two ogee-po9t$ ar*es1 enclos$ 9 rectangul> m\ld+s 9 ! usual ,mogul fa%ion4 ,z "o ent]s ! city1 inscrib$ tablets record+ incid5ts ( ! siege are num]\s1 & ! ,briti% au?orities h c]ta9ly be5 mo/ c>eful to pres]ve ! memory ( _! side ( ! fight along ) ! names ( _! milit>y h]oes1 & e notewor?y spot 9 ! /ruggle is commemorat$ 9 ?is way4 ,9 addition to su* incid5tal monum5ts !re is ! ,mut9y ,memorial1 an important r$-s&/one erection 7#aaj feet high7 outside ! gates1 ^u a ris+ gr\nd1 & s plac$ t a complete view c be obta9$ f its summit ( ! l9es ( ! siege4 ,at ! =t1 :i* 0 =m]ly ! ,imp]ial ,palace ( ! ,moguls 7built 9 ,a4,d4 #afbh-eh by ,%ah ,jehan71 x is di/ress+ to see ! ru?less de/ruction ( sup]b build+s = :i* ! ,briti% h be5 responsible1 & ! b>b>\s way 9 :i* hide\s b>rack /ructures h be5 sub/itut$4 ,! =t1 or palace1 is ent]$ ?r\gh a noble1 deep-r$ s&/one gate4 ,! ,lahore1 or1 z x is n[ call$1 ! ,victoria ,gate1 & ! f9e c\rt1 is m>r$ by ^! ugly mod]n milit>y b>racks = :i* s mu* beauty 0 sacrific$4 ,we 7 %[n two spl5did halls1 ! ,diwan-i-am1 or public hall ( audi5ce1 & ! ,diwan-i-khas1 or private hall ( audi5ce4 ,?is is ( :ite m>ble ) beautiful inlays ( preci\s /ones1 ) a ri*ly decorat$ ceil+ 9 col\r & gold4 ,a m>ble p$e/al is po9t$ out z ! place :]eon ! wond]ful peacock ?rone /ood4 ,?is mu/ inde$ h be5 gorge\s1 ! seat betwe5 two peacocks ) spread tails1 & ^! encru/$ ) sapphires1 diamonds1 rubies1 & em]alds1 repres5t+ ! natural col\rs ( ! plumage1 a true emblem ( ori5tal magnific5ce4 ,ov] ! ar*es ( ! arcade 9 ?is hall is a ,p]sian inscription 9 rais$ & gilt *>act]s1 :i* reads1 8,if !re is a p>adise on e>?1 x is ?is1 x is ?is1 x is ?is40 ,?is co/ly 8p>adise10 aga91 0 built by ! build] ( ! ,taj ,mahal1 ,%ah ,jehan1 :o seems to h out%one all ! ,mogul emp]ors by ! spl5d\r ( 8 build+s4 ,( c\rse !re are no diamonds1 or rubies1 or em]alds left1 & ev5 ! small /ones us$ 9 ! decorative floral inlays h 9 _m cases be5 pick$ out4 ,x is said t ,"l ,curzon employ$ ,flor5t9e workm5 to replace "s ( ?is "w at 8 own exp5se4 ,! decoration ( ! walls & ceil+s 9 ! z5ana rooms1 consi/+ ( pa9t$ & gild$ arabesques1 0 v lovely1 & ! m>ble ,akab ,ba?s exquisite4 ,! riv] 7,jumna7 =m]ly fl[$ up to ! walls ( ! palace on t side1 & f a beautiful m9>et we c\ld see ! riv] beyond a belt ( gre5 foliage1 & get a f9e p]spective view up & d[n ( ! palace wall & build+s4 ,ne> by1 on ! o!r side ( ! c\rt1 is ! ,rung ,mahal1 :i* is di/+ui%$ by p>ticul>ly f9e pi]c$ scre5-"w4 ,! vault$ rooms connect$ ) ?is build+ 7 till rec5tly us$ z (fic]s' mess-rooms1 :5 all _! beautiful decoration 7 oblit]at$ ) :itewa%4 ,opposite to ! ,akab ,ba?s is ! ,moti ,musjid1 call$ ! ,pe>l ,mosque1 a mo/ exquisite little build+ ( :ite m>ble1 a clu/] ( ?ree domes & _m sl5d] p9nacles t]m9at$ by lotus fl[]s4 ,x has _m-cusp$ ar*es ( ,s>ac5ic "*1 & a f9e bronze door4 ,x is sad to ?9k t ^! lovely build+s are aft] all only remnants ( :at 7 once on ?is spot :5 ?is ,imp]ial ,palace 0 complete 9 all its spl5d\r4 ,! ,burj-i-,%ameli1 ! great m>ble ba?-room2 ! ,metiaz-,mehal1 a huge quadrangle ( palaces enclos+ a g>d5 #cjj feet squ>e2 ! ,nobatkhama or music gate1 ! ,gold5 ,mosque1 ! h>eem c\rts1 & fifty o!r lovely pavilions1 f\nta9s1 & g>d5s--?9k ( x6 ,! late ,w4 ,s4 ,ca9e1 writ+ 9 8 8,picturesque ,india10 adds ! foll[+ passage3 8,^! & o!r glories ( ! palace h all be5 swept away by successive b>b>ians4 ,nadir ,%ah1 ,ahm$ ,khan1 & ! ,m>a?a *iefs 7 cont5t to /rip ! build+s ( _! preci\s metals & jewell$ ?rones3 to ! gov]nm5t ( ! ,empress ( ,india 0 left ! la/ dregs ( v&alism1 :i*1 aft] ! ,mut9y1 pull$ d[n ^! p]fect monum5ts ( ,mughal art1 to make room = ! uglie/ brick build+s f ,simla to ,ceylon40 ,! ,jama ,musjid at ,delhi is on a spl5did scale1 a mosque ( r$ s&/one inlaid ) :ite m>ble4 ,!re are f\r great gateways1 approa*$ by long flights ( /eps1 ?r\gh :i* ! great arcad$ squ>e c\rt1 9 :i* ! mosque /&s1 is ent]$4 ,reput$ relics ( ,buddha are %[n to visitors at a %r9e at "o corn] ( ! c\rt4 ,on ! ea/]n side ! mosque faces an op5 pla9 f :i* a l>ge slice ( ! native city1 :i* once surr\nd$ ! mosque1 _h be5 cle>$ by ! ,gov]nm5t4 ,?is gives a cle> view ( ! noble build+ on ?is side1 b mu/ h be5 r di/9ctive ( ! "* ( ! place1 & "o w\ld h ?\ght ! mosque1 /&+ s high z x does1 w\ld h easily dom9at$ ! native h\ses4 ,9 fact1 if x _h be5 design$ = a site on an op5 pla91 !re w\ld h be5 no necessity to raise x on su* a l(ty plat=m4 ,mod]n improv]s are apt to =get ! logic ( art4 ,we w5t up a side /reet 9 ! native t[n on ! o!r side ( ! mosque to see ! ,ja9 temple1 :i* is an int]e/+ & ri*ly decorat$ small build+ 9 ! ,mogul /yle ( ar*itecture1 approa*$ by a doorway 9 ! /reet & rea*$ by a flight ( /eps4 ,x is extremely beautiful 9 detail4 ,9 ! curi\s /reet !re 7 _m int]e/+ ,mogul doorways4 ,we /opp$ at a /all to buy "s specim5s ( ! glass & lacqu]$ bracelets commonly worn by ! native wom5 :i* only co/ a few annas4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,jama ,,musjid ,,mosque1 ,,delhi ,! ,*&ni ,*[k 7or silv] /reet7 is ! ma9 bus9ess /reet or baza> ( ,delhi4 ,x is v wide1 & has a sort ( long isl& d[n ! middle plant$ ) trees4 ,?is 0 said to h be5 orig9ally an aqu$uct4 ,x runs ea/ & we/1 & we saw a /rik+ effect "o ev5+--! gl[+ sunset beh9d ! d>k masses ( ! trees1 ! end ( ! vi/a lo/ 9 my/]i\s gloom2 tw9kl+ lights1 "h & !re1 ab\t ! :ite awn+s ( ! /alls "u ! trees2 :ite turban$ figures ( natives mov+ noiselessly up & d[n1 ox-c>ts & pony tongas1 w&]+ sacr$ zebus1 & all ! mix$ & v>i$ "* ( an ,indian baza> =m a wond]ful & picturesque ensemble4 ,individuali/ic comm]cial competition is well illu/rat$ 9 ! ,*&ni ,*[k4 ,! travell] is besieg$ by t\ts ?ru/+ _! c>ds into 8 h&1 or ?r[+ !m into 8 c>riage1 or surr\nd+ x ) ! mo/ importunate solicitations to see _! %ops4 ,we visit$ an ivory c>v]'s work%op 9 a /reet lead+ out ( ! ,*[k4 ,my impression 0 ab\t ?is1 z 9 reg>d to o!r native h&icrafts1 t x 0 n[ a craft z di/9ct f an art4 ,we saw ! c>v]s at "w1 q a numb]4 ,x 0 a species ( factory4 ,!re 7 draughtsm5 & design]s1 & m9iature pa9t]s & inlay]s1 q di/9ct f ! c>v]s4 ,! =m] draw ! patt]ns on ! ivory ) a p5cil4 ,!re 7 "s "y boys le>n+ to draw f ! craft2 "o 0 draw+ a bird on a slate4 ,! skill ( ! ivory-c>v]s 0 v wond]ful3 !y c\ld c>ve a figure inside an op5 scroll-"w & leave x di/9ct1 & !re 7 feats ( ?is k9d ( :i* !y seem$ to be mo/ pr\d2 b ^! craftsm5 seem$ to "w almo/ me*anically1 no d\bt entirely to ord]1 & )\t any initiative ( _! own 9 ! way ( design4 ,!y sat cross-legg$ on ! floor1 & m 9 "o room ?an our factory inspectors w\ld probably approve4 ,! works "h 7 mo/ly produc$ = ready sale to ! t\ri/4 ,elephants & pap] knives 7--,i 0 go+ to say1 walk+ h& 9 h&--all ov] ! %op1 & small models ( ! ,taj ,mahal ran !m close1 models ( native ox-c>ts1 tongas1 & palkis1 ! native pl\ghman & 8 yoke ( ox51 & su*-l images ( famili> ?+s ( ,indian life2 elaborate *ess-m51 & inlaid caskets ) little m9iatures ( ! ,taj ,mahal & ! ,jama ,musjid ins]t$1 9 fact all sorts ( ivory toys 7 !re1 consci\sly prep>$ = ! ,we/]n eye1 & too (t5 ! ,we/]n want ( ta/e4 ,a loquaci\s ,p>see-look+ proprietor or manag] %[$ u ov] ?is e/abli%m5t4 ,he _h ! air ( a g5]al director ( ! works1 etc4 ,:ile n at all press+1 he took c>e to %[ all 8 attractive ?+s1 beg9n+ at ! mo/ elaborate & co/ly articles1 & skilfully grad+ d[nw>ds1 until 9 price !y 7 )9 measurable di/ance ( ! visitor's purse4 ,my wife f\nd t native home-spun l95 & silks = embroid]y 7 difficult to f9d 9 ! ,*&ni ,*[k1 :]e !re 7 pl5ty ( ,european goods4 ,on ,janu>y #aa? !re 0 a slight fro/4 ,! e>ly morn+ 0 q mi/y1 too1 b ! sun came out lat]1 & !re 0 a /rong cold w9d f ! ea/ 9 spite ( ! cle>1 bright1 blue sky & ! brilliant sun%9e4 ,x suit$ ,delhi f> bett] ?an ! grey sky "u :i* we _h se5 x ! fir/ morn+ ( our visit1 & 0 fav\rable = our excursion to ! ,kutab ,m9>1 elev5 miles out4 ,driv+ ?r\gh ! ,delhi & ,ka%mir ,gates aga91 & along ! road pa/ ! ,jama ,musjid1 & out aga9 at a f>!r gate to ! s\?-ea/1 we trav]s$ ! region kn[n z ,old ,delhi1 a wond]ful tract ( ru9$ cities1 %att]$ build+s1 m+l$ ) noble tombs1 mosques1 & m9>ets1 ext5d+ = _m miles outside ! pres5t city4 ,domes ( tombs 7 se5 on all sides1 & brok5 walls1 & ! gr\nd 0 /rewn ) bricks & /ones4 ,trees 7acacias & tam>9ds mo/ly7 bord]$ ! road4 ,our native coa*man 7a good guide7 spoke ( ,no4 #h city1 & po9t$ out its ru9$ gate1 "u :i* we pass$4 ,f>!r on we took a bran* road & /opp$ be=e ! noble gate ( ! anci5t city ( ,indrapat ) its /rong walls & ba/ions4 ,leav+ our c>riage1 we pass$ ?r\gh ! gate & on pa/ a squalid gr\p ( wret*$ huts1 :]e pov]ty-/rick5 natives huddl$ toge!r ab\t _! tumble-d[n dwell+s1 & :]e native *ildr5 7 incl9$ to be rude4 ,f>!r along ! brok5 pa? we rea*$ a spaci\s octagonal mosque ( r$ s&/one on a m>ble plat=m4 ,?is 0 ! mosque ( ,%ir ,%ah 7,a4,d4 #aeda74 ,! contra/ betwe5 ! dignity ( ?is build+ & ! squalor ( ! village 0 /rik+ & sadd5+4 ,resum+ our road1 we next rea*$ ! spl5did tomb ( ,humayun 7built by ,akb> ! ,great ab\t #aefj ,a4,d41 9 memory ( 8 fa!r ! ,emp]or ,humayun74 ,an important gateway l$ into a g>d5 ) long tanks & flagg$ pa?ways1 bord]$ by =mal gre5 h$ges1 :i* l$ up to a spaci\s plat=m ^u :i* ! noble tomb 0 built4 ,9 ! c5tral *amb] "u ! tomb ! actual tomb/one 0 scre5$ by pi]c$ m>ble4 ,!re 0 also a small] *amb] ( tombs1 ea* side ! c5tral "o4 ,! build+ 0 ( r$ s&/one1 inlaid ) :ite m>ble ) a c5tral dome & f\r m9>ets4 ,x seem$ to be a prototype ( ! great ,akb>'s own tomb we _h se5 at ,sik&ra4 ,!n on aga9 we w5t1 mak+ ano!r %ort det\r f ! ma9 road to ! cemet]y ( ,nizam-ud-d94 ,ent]+ ?r\gh ! gateway1 we came ^u a deep tank1 surr\nd$ ) build+s4 ,on ! flatt5$ dome ( "o--! ,nizam's well-h\se--sat a gr\p ( br[n-sk9n$ y\?s1 ready to dive into ! wat]1 a dive ( ab\t sev5ty feet1 = back%ee%1 & ! ent]ta9m5t ( ! visitor4 ,a passage f ?is l$ into a m>ble c\rt1 9 ! c5tre ( :i* 0 ! :ite1 m>ble-dom$ tomb ( ! ,nizam1 brilliantly decorat$ ) arabesques 9 col\r4 ,x rem9d$ "o ( ! %r9e ( ! ,kwaja 9 ! ,d>g>h at ,ajmir4 ,!re 7 also o!r tombs 9 ! c\rt1 "o to ! poet ,khusru1 ^: songs are said to be /ill popul> 9 ,india4 ,an int]e/+ "o is t ( ,jahan>a ,begum1 daught] ( ! ,emp]or ,%ah ,jehan1 on :i* is an inscription to ! effect t %e begs t no?+ b grass may cov] h]4 ,c]ta9ly h] wi%es are fulfill$1 z ! grass gr[s freely 9 ! m>ble-sid$ tomb :i* has no cov]4 ,up "s /eps 0 ! mod]n tomb ( ,mirza ,jahangir1 b a beautiful m>ble "o4 ,! c>v+ 9 m>ble & ornam5ts ( all ^! tombs 7 exce$+ly delicate & beautiful1 & w\ld comp>e well ) ! "w on ! ,taj ,mahal4 ,! visitor on leav+ is emb>rass$ by ! numb] ( claimants ( fees4 ,!re seem$ to be a diff]5t cu/ode = e tomb 9 ! place1 & ! cr[d ( hang]s-on1 hungry = back%ee%1 r spoils ! pleasure :i* ! sight ( s mu* beautiful "w gives4 ,return+ to ! road aga9 & cont9u+ our drive1 x 0 n long be=e we descri$ ! great ,kutab ,m9> ris+ up above ! trees 9 front ( u4 ,we _h inde$ caught a glimpse ( x miles away1 :5 ! t[] 0 almo/ lo/ 9 ! haze4 ,!re is a good little bungal[ close by :]e ! travell] c get tiff91 or put up = ! night if s m9d$4 ,! ,m9>1 tap]+ upw>ds to an a/oni%+ height 7#bch feet71 pi]c+ ! cle> blue sky1 is ( r$ s&/one ) a :ite m>ble top /ory4 ,!re are five /ories1 & ! summit 0 =m]ly cr[n$ by a small cupola & op5 arcade1 :i* 0 de/roy$ by a /orm1 & a model ( x has be5 plac$ ne> by4 ,successive b&s ( small c>v+ are c>ri$ across ! deep flut+s1 bo? semicircul> & rectangul> alt]nately on ! l[] /orey1 semicircul> 9 ! second1 rectangul> 9 ! ?ird1 a pla9 cyl9d] =m+ ! f\r?1 :ile ! fif? & la/ is p>tly flut$ & p>tly pla94 ,^! b&s are compos$ ( texts f ! ,koran1 ! ,arabic *>act]s hav+ a ri* ornam5tal effect1 ! c>v+ be+ wond]fully %>p & unimpair$1 al?\gh x dates f ! twelf? & ! latt] "p ( ! ?irte5? c5tury 7,a4,d4 #abaj-bj71 hav+ be5 built z a t[] ( ,victory1 comm5c$ by ,kutab-ud-d91 & complet$ by 8 successor1 ,altam%4 ,! t[] 0 built 9 ! c5tre ( ! old ,h9du =tress ( ,lalkot 7,a4,d4 #ajfj74 ,at its foot are v>i\s ru9s1 ! mo/ ext5sive be+ ^? ( a f9e ,mohamm$an mosque1 con/ruct$ out ( ! mat]ials (1 & incorporat$ ) an anci5t ,h9du temple1 ! orig9al columns ( ! latt] rema9+ to =m ! colonnade ( ! c\rt4 ,! images ( ! ,h9du gods h be5 mo/ly defac$ :5 !y occurr$ 9 ! c>v+4 ,!re is a f9e ,mogul ar* ( r$ s&/one1 simil> 9 treatm5t & /yle to 8! mosque ( two & a half days0 at ,ajmir4 ,9 front ( ?is1 9 ! c5tre ( ! c\rt1 /&s a rem>kable pill> ( solid wr\ght iron1 suppos$ to date f ,a4,d4 #cjj to #djj4 ,x is d$icat$ to ,vi%nu1 & !re are l9es 9 ,sanscrit inscrib$ ar\nd x4 ,! wond] is t su* a massive ?+ 9 iron c\ld h be5 =g$ at t e>ly p]iod4 ,return+ to ,delhi by a diff]5t road we pass$ ano!r important-look+ tomb1 also ne> ! outskirts ( ! pres5t city1 ! ru9s ( ! ,obs]vatories built by diff]5t rajahs 9 ! eighte5? c5tury1 :i* impress "o z weighty evid5ces ( ! philosophical k & culture ( ^! native pr9ces4 ,a moon obs]vatory 0 po9t$ out to u1 & a va/ circul> build+4 ,! gr\ps ( ru9$ build+s h]eab\t recall$ to u ! ,roman ,campagna & its fragm5ts4 ,our coa*man 7:o 0 p]haps m c>eful z a guide ?an z a ,jehu7 collid$ r viol5tly ) a tonga j outside ! city1 & ! consequ5ces might h be5 s]i\s1 b ! :eels 7 ! *ief suff]]s1 & ! tonga mu/ h got ! wor/ ( ! jolt1 "o ( ! native pass5g]s be+ ?r[n out4 ,no bones 7 brok51 & ! incid5t did n seem to be reg>d$ z at all an unusual occurr5ce4 ,!re seems no rule ( ! road 9 ,india1 & s risks are con/antly run4 ,9 ! cr[d$ /reets ! driv]s rely on ! p[] ( _! lungs to %\t out w>n+s ( _! approa*1 & x is a m>vel p escape be+ run ov]1 & t collisions are n m frequ5t & worse ?an !y are4 ,illu/ration3 ,,delhi ,,driv+4 ,,want$--,a ,,rule ,,( ,,! ,,road ,at ! hotel1 :]e ! cu/om ( small1 sep>ate1 circul> d9+-tables obta9$1 we happ5$ to meet a v agreeable ,anglo-,am]ican family f ,ceylon1 :o 7 travell+ 9 ,india1 & 7 return+ to _! home at ,colombo1 be=e visit+ ,japan & ,europe4 ,we discov]$ we _h sev]al fri5ds 9 common1 & promis$ to visit !m :5 we came to ,ceylon4 ,i got a col\r$ draw+ ( ! ,jama ,musjid f ! pla9 be=e m5tion$1 :]e a few trees af=d$ a little %ade1 ! sun be+ v /rong1 al?\gh a cool w9d 0 /ill bl[+ f ! ea/4 ,! light 0 p>ticul>ly cle> & ! %ad[s %>p1 s t ! ar*itecture look$ rem>kably di/9ct1 ! effect be+ almo/ h>d4 ,we _h a /roll 9 ! p>k-l gr\nds ne> ! ,club4 ,!re 0 an old & mu* ov]gr[n ,mogul ar*way "h1 :i* _h be5 consid]ably batt]$ 9 ! siege4 ,!re 7 f9e cypresses & o!r trees1 & among !m little flights ( gre5 p>roquets flew ) _! %rill scream--_! flight & _! notes rem9d+ "o ( our swifts4 ,t\cans 7 also to be se51 & ( c\rse ! palm squirrels4 ,we wat*$ a :ole colony ( !m sleep+ 9 ! holl[ ( a f9e old banyan tree4 ,,*apt] ,x ,,amritz> ,,& ,,lahore ,we left ,delhi by a night tra9--! ,punjab ,mail--= ,amritz>1 b we _h a long wait at ! /ation1 z ! tra9 0 two h\rs late4 ,! /ation 0 ?rong$ ) natives b\nd = "s religi\s fe/ival connect$ ) ! approa*+ eclipse ( ! sun4 ,!re 0 a see?+ mass ( d>k humanity at ! entrance1 ?r\gh :i* we _h almo/ to fight our way to ! plat=m4 ,our r\te 0 by way ( ,umballa1 :i* we rea*$ 9 ! e>ly morn+4 ,! c\ntry 0 wrapp$ 9 a ?ick :ite mi/ be=e ! sun rose1 :5 x gradually cle>$4 ,beyond ,umballa ! c\ntry 0 v flat1 ! dry l&s v>i$ ) gre5 crops & yell[ ) *>lock1 z be=e1 & dott$ ) acacia trees4 ,occasionally we cross$ wide riv]s1 or riv] b$s1 & ! usual flocks ( :ite cranes & br[n kites 7 se54 ,jullumpore 0 ano!r junction :]e our tra9 /opp$4 ,x look$ an int]e/+ place f ! railway1 a wall$ t[n ) t[]s & anci5t mosques4 ,aft] leav+ ,pill\r 7! refre%m5t /ation7 a v broad riv] 0 cross$1 & on ! wide s&s ( ! dry "p ( its b$1 almo/ l a des]t1 we saw a tra9 ( ?irty camels mov+ sl[ly 9 s+le file4 ,we did n rea* ,amritz> until ab\t #a ,p4,m41 m ?an ?ree h\rs aft] "t6 ,on em]g+ f ! /ation1 despite our be>]1 we 7 ne>ly torn to pieces by hotel t\ts4 ,illu/ration3 ,,%e ,,won',t ,,be ,,happy ,,till ,,%e ,,gets ,,ev]y?+ ,,pack$ ,,up ,! ,alex&ra hotel _h be5 nam$ to u & we ask$ = its repres5tative1 b x appe>$ !re 0 no su* hotel at ,amritz>4 ,ea* rival t\t clam\r$ = our cu/om1 decl>+ t ! hotel he repres5t$ 0 ! true & only successor to ! my?ical ,alex&ra4,a ,"o w5t s f> z to say he _h receiv$ a po/-c>d f u1 b :5 ask$ to produce x only %[$ a lett] f "s "o else6 ,f9ally we got into a c>riage1 :i* 0 imm$iately /orm$ by ! irrepressible t\ts1 "o seat+ himself on ! box1 "o on ! /ep ea* side1 & ,i don't "k h[ _m hang+ on beh9d4 ,n lik+ ! look ( ! fir/ hotel !y took u to1 we tri$ a second & decid$ to put up !re1 & s gradually %ook (f ! t\ts4 ,!re 0 m ( an ,ea/]n "* ab\t our qu>t]s "h ?an we _h hi!rto exp]i5c$4 ,! hotel 0 q an ,ori5tal s]ai 9 an ,ea/]n g>d51 our rooms be+ 9 a sort ( ,indian villa1 op5+ on to a t]race ) /eps d[n into ! g>d51 ) its n>r[ /raight pa?s betwe5 fruit trees1 & our room 0 r l a small temple or *apel ) recess$ walls & ogee ar*$ doorways1 a raft]$ ceil+1 & cl]e/ory w9d[s4 ,built = coolness1 no d\bt1 we n[ f\nd x positively cold 9 ! morn+s & ev5+s1 & al?\gh !re 0 a fireplace ! light+ ( a wood fire made matt]s worse1 = we 7 ne>ly smok$ out4 ,a ,we le>n$ aft]w>ds t x 0 ! cu/om to *ange ! names ( hotels e six mon?s or s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,demon ,,hotel ,,t\ts ,,at ,,amritz> ,,fight+ ,,= ,,_! ,,prey ,!re 7 sev]al ,engli% or ,anglo-,engli% at table pres]v+ _! *>act]i/ic frigidity 9 ! pres5ce ( /rang]s4 ,a g5tleman f ,man*e/] 0 ! only "o :o %[$ a fri5dly disposition & :o _h any conv]sation4 ,driv+ ?r\gh ! city we _h rec\rse to smell+-bottles1 z ow+ to ! op5 dra9s ea* side ! /reets ! od\rs :i* salut$ our no/rils 7 r try+4 ,i _h notic$ ^! op5 gulleys at ,delhi & 9 ! native qu>t]s 9 o!r t[ns4 ,!y run close 9 front ( ! h\ses & op5 %ops ( ! baza>s1 & are cross$ by slabs ( /one plac$ across !m at int]vals to give access to ! h\ses1 & z all sorts ( refuse f9ds its way into !m x is n surpris+ !y %\ld be (f5sive sometimes1 ?\gh x _h n be5 ne>ly s noticeable else:]e4 ,amritz> is said to h ! b5efit ( ! advice ( an ,engli% sanit>y eng9e]4 ,! /reet did n /rike u z s v>i$ & int]e/+ z o!r cities we _h se51 & ! h\se fronts seem$ pla9] & m mod]n1 z a rule1 ?\gh ! /reets 7 n>r[ en\gh4 ,illu/ration3 ,,?r\gh ,,amritz>--,,sit ,,tight ,,& ,,hold ,a ,,smell+ ,,bottle6 ,f a sort ( t]race we got our fir/ view ( ! ,gold5 ,temple1 :i* is built 9 ! c5tre ( ! l>ge tank or lake 9 ! c5tre ( ! city4 ,a broad pav$ causeway connects ) ! pav$ walk along two sides ( ! lake4 ,aft] ! magnific5t & beautifully proportion$ ,mogul ar*itecture ( ,agra & ,delhi1 ! ,gold5 ,temple1 built at ! beg9n+ ( ! n9ete5? c5tury is r disappo9t+1 despite its gild$ domes1 ! build+ look+ r squat1 ?\gh ! gold reflect$ 9 ! rippl+ wat] has a *>m+ effect4 ,! gild$ dome ( ! ,atal t[] also %[s ov] ! build+s beh9d ! temple se5 f ! t]race4 ,leav+ our c>riage at ?is spot we 7 surr\nd$ & ey$ by a curi\s cr[d4 ,rival guides app>5tly cont5d$ = u1 & !re 0 a sudd5 qu>rel1 end+ 9 a free fight1 betwe5 two ( !m1 ! end ( :i* we did n rema9 to see4 ,! temple & its prec9cts is held mo/ sacr$ by ! ,sikhs1 ,amritz> be+ _! religi\s c5tre1 ! place is mo/ jeal\sly wat*$4 ,x seem$ impossible to get away f ! cr[d1 :o appe>$ to be none too fri5dly to /rang]s1 & sket*+ 0 out ( ! "q )\t a bodygu>d4 ,we _h a v c\rte\s & k9d reception f ,dr ,d+hra1 ?ree ( ^: sons we _h kn[n 9 ,london4 ,"o son & 8 wife 7 /ay+ ) him1 & we sp5t a pleasant h\r "u 8 hospitable ro(1 & he pres5t$ u ) h&some saddle bags1 made ( ! local c>pet1 on leav+4 ,he also introduc$ u to "o ( ! lead+ citiz5s1 a magi/rate1 :o _h an ext5sive pile c>pet manufactory1 & he %[$ u ov] ! works4 ,^! 7 long %$s1 hav+ r\nd ar*$ arcades op5+ on to a c\rt1 & 9 ^! 7 a s]ies ( high-w>p h&-looms ) r[s ( %uttles fill$ ) ! diff]5t col\r$ wools hang+ f ! top4 ,! weav]s sat1 or r squatt$1 9 a r[ on ! gr\nd 9 front ( ! w>p & work$ 9 ! patt]n4 ,!y 7 "y boys & y\?s tra9$ to ! "w e>ly4 ,!y us$ a small curv$ knife l a small sickle to %e> (f ! ends ( _! ?reads & press !m home :5 a p>ticul> bit ( col\r$ patt]n 0 f9i%$4 ,little oblong labels writt5 9 ,arabic 7 plac$ on ! w>p 9 front ( ea* weav]1 :i* gave ! writt5 directions = ! col\rs to be us$ 9 ! "w4 ,no individual judgm5t or *oice appe>$ to be ex]cis$ by ! weav]s4 ,!re 0 a design room also op5 to ! c\rt "u an arcade1 "h "s q ag$ natives 7 prep>+ designs1 sket*+ !m out 9 p5cil or *>coal on squ>$ pap]1 q 9 ! ,european me?od1 & 9 "s cases work+ f photographs ( special c>pets4 ,i le>n$ f ! manag] t ! work+ h\rs 9 ?is factory 7 f #h ,a4,m4 till d>k4 ,! boy weav]s only got "o & a half annas a day6 ,we f9ally 7 %[n ! f9i%$ product--a :ole s]ies ( l>ge h&some c>pets be+ roll$ out = u to see4 ,"o ( ^!1 ( a ,p]sian k9d ( design1 w\ld be pric$ at #bjj rupees1 ! manag] said4 ,be=e leav+ we 7 reque/$ to write our names1 & any rem>ks on our visit1 9 a visitor's book1 :]e ! li/ _h be5 head$ by ! ,pr9ce & ,pr9cess ( ,wales1 :o visit$ ^! works on _! t\r 9 ,india 9 #aije4 ,9 ! =5oon ( ,janu>y #ad? we saw ! eclipse ( ! sun f our t]race4 ,x r took u by surprise--! light quickly becom+ curi\sly pale l moonlight & ! air unusually *illy4 ,we c\ld see ! sun turn$ into a cresc5t q di/9ctly1 & pass ?r\gh v>i\s phases l a moon1 till x gradually rega9$ its normal %ape & p[] %ortly aft] noon4 ,illu/ration3 ,,an ,,indian ,,autolycus ,z we sat on ! t]race a native p$l> approa*$ ) two port5t\s bundles4 ,he salaam$1 & proce$$ to unload 8 w>es 9 front ( u4 ,8 /ock1 h[ev]1 consi/$ entirely ( ,european goods--small w>es su* z tapes & buttons1 /uds1 soaps & p]fumes1 pat5t m$ic9es1 & su* articles z are suppos$ to meet ! wants ( travell]s4 ,?is ,indian ,autolycus address$ u z 8,fa!r0 & 8,"m10 & l ! 8,mad ,hatt]0 comm5c$ 8 spee*es by say+ 8me v poor man10 foll[+ ?is ann\ncem5t by urg5t appeals to u to buy1 aft] ea* pur*ase1 beg9n+ all ov] aga9 afre%4 ,probably he felt he _h to make ! mo/ ( 8 ,engli%1 z well z ( 8 /ock & 8 opportunities4 ,aft] ano!r look at ! ,gold5 ,temple1 :i* x 0 impossible to approa* )\t a cr[d & )\t clumsy canvas %oes ov] our own1 we made our way r\nd to ! ,atal t[]4 ,"h1 aga91 be=e ent]+ ! any?+ b clean m>ble c\rt %oes _h to be put (f4 ,x is an octagonal %r9e1 or tomb1 hav+ curi\s beat5 metal plates1 gild$ figure designs 9 rep\ss ov] ! doors1 b ! decorative art "h 0 mu* inf]ior 9 design & detail to :at we _h se5 fur!r s\?4 ,we !n drove to ! public g>d5s 9 :i* /&s ! pavilion ( ,ranji ,s+h4 ,! g>d5s are full ( beautiful palms & trees ( _m diff]5t k9ds1 includ+ f9e cypresses & spl5did clumps ( bamboos4 ,! roads ar\nd ,amritz> are l9$ ) trees1 & "o sees enorm\s banyans spread+ _! great bran*es & masses ( d>k gre5 foliage & ca/+ deep %ad[s on ! long av5ues4 ,l>ge plantations & fruit g>d5s1 too1 surr\nd ! city1 s t x has a v attractive look al?\gh on a dead level4 ,oranges ( a l>ge r\gh-sk9n$ k9d are gr[n "h4 ,!y are deep-col\r$1 & m l lemons 9 %ape4 ,!re 0 also a v small circul> orange ab\t ! size ( a l>ge *]ry 9 ! hotel g>d51 :]e roses1 pansies1 & violets 7 bloom+ freely4 ,! native g>d5] 0 g5]ally to ! =e 9 (f]+ u small posies or buttonholes :5ev] he _h an opportunity & = a consid]ation4 ,we left ,amritz> = ,lahore on ,janu>y ! #ae?1 hav+ ano!r long wait = ! ,punjab mail1 ?is "t ?ree h\rs beh9d "t4 ,h[ev]1 ab\t noon ano!r tra9 came up & we 7 advis$ by ! /ationma/] to g on by t 9 pref]5ce to wait+ long] = ! mail4 ,?is tra91 he said1 w\ld take u to ,lahore m quickly ?an ! quick tra91 :i* s\nds l a contradiction 9 t]ms4 ,x is only ab\t an h\r's j\rney4 ,! c\ntry betwe5 ,amritz> & ,lahore is1 aga91 flat & has no /rik+ features4 ,fields "u irrigation gre5 ) "y crops ( corn1 (t5 smo!r$ 9 *>lock1 alt]nat$ ) dry fields or ! /&+ canes ( ripe crops1 & /ubbles ( "s newly reap$4 ,! wells 7 pl5tiful4 ,"s ( ! irrigation wells 9 ?is di/rict are ( a diff]5t patt]n & me*anism to ! simple draw-well se5 g5]ally4 ,a pair ( ox5 turn a horizontal heavy wood5 :eel :i* has slots at regul> int]vals ar\nd ! outside ( its rim4 ,^! slots cat* ! project+ spokes or /raight cogs ( ano!r :eel1 also horizontally plac$ & small] 9 size1 & ?is 9 turn by means ( ! cogs moves a l>ge wat] :eel arrang$ 9 a v]tical position1 ! project+ cogs cat*+ ! spokes ( ?is :eel1 :i* has a s]ies ( lea!r buckets or wat] pots atta*$ to its broad rim1 on ! same pr9ciple z we see 9 dr$g+ ma*9es4 ,z ! :eel turns ! buckets are dipp$ "o aft] ! o!r into ! well1 & z !y rise aga9 full empty _! cont5ts into a tr\gh imm$iately 9 front ( ! :eel1 :i* communicates ) ano!r tr\gh connect$ ) ! irrigat+ tr5*es1 :i* are ?us suppli$ ) wat]4 ,! /ation at ,lahore 0 comp>atively quiet & 0 a pleas+ contra/ to ! turbul5t cr[d at ,amritz>4 ,! ,*>+ ,cross hotel receiv$ u1 b any?+ less sugge/ive ( ! associations its "n recall$ x w\ld be difficult to imag9e4 ,x 0 ( ! usual ext5d$ bungal[ type1 ) long arcades 9 front ( ranges ( gr\nd floor rooms1 spaci\s & l(ty & rem9d+ r ( ! va/ rooms "o sees on ! /age ) raft]$ ceil+s & :itewa%$ walls4 ,! l[] wall ( our sitt+-room1 h[ev]1 0 hung ) v int]e/+ ,indian h&-pa9t$ cotton hang+s1 :i* gave x r a di/+ui%$ appe>ance4 ,!re 0 a b$room1 some?+ betwe5 a prison & a *apel1 & dress+ & ! usual ba? rooms1 ) z9c tubs1 op5+ out beyond4 ,!re 7 l>ge sitt+ & d9+ rooms1 ! latt] an enorm\s "o1 l ! nave ( a *ur*1 light$ by a cl]e/ory only1 & cold en\gh1 :]e p d9$ r frigidly1 ea* gr\p at a safe di/ance at sep>ate little r\nd tables4 ,we 7 glad ( a log-fire 9 ! ev5+s1 ?\gh ! sun 0 p[]ful en\gh dur+ ! day4 8,! ,*>+ ,cross po/ (fice0 0 close by1 :i* _h "o pigeon hole1 & :]e ! /amps 7 sold outside "u ! v]&ah1 by a native squatt+ on ! gr\nd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,enjoy+ ,a ,,log ,,fire ,,at ,,lahore ,a f9e broad av5ue ?r\gh ! ,engli% qu>t] is call$ 8,! ,mall10 & "h ! pr9cipal gov]nm5t build+s are situat$1 ! ,law c\rts & ! ,museum1 & ! pr9cipal /ores & bungal[s4 ,?is ,briti% resid5tial & bus9ess qu>t] is q di/9ct & lies q cle> outside ! walls ( ! native city ( ,lahore4 ,x is laid out 9 broad drives ) tan rides at ! side1 & bord]$ ) trees4 ,bungal[s & %ops & /ores 9 ! %ape ( bungal[s /&+ deta*$ 9 g>d5s are arrang$ pleasantly f ! mod]n resid5tial po9t ( view1 & =ms q a 8g>d5 city10 only m>r$ by ! atroci\s way 9 :i* ! trad]s ann\nce _! names & bus9ess 9 />+ :ite block-lett]s on black bo>ds4 ,"o piano w>eh\se1 ,i notic$1 _h ev5 a sky sign4 ,ev5 ! private resid5ces are (t5 disfigur$ 9 ! same way by black bo>ds ) ! "n ( ! occupi] 9 ! uglie/ block-lett]s4 ,! g>d5s & h$ges1 (t5 ( roses tra9$ on trellises ( bamboo1 are kept v trim up & d[n ! ,mall4 ,sm>t ,engli% ladies & (fic]s ride or drive ab\t 9 _! dog-c>ts ) native tig]s beh9d4 ,we met a v impos+ & orig9al turn out--a f9e pair ( br[n camels1 well mat*$1 7 h>ness$ to a sort ( b>\*e1 ea* ridd51 po/ilion-wise1 by native s]vants 9 sc>let1 "o 9 ! same col\r beh9d ! c>riage1 :i* conta9$ two ,engli% ladies4 ,?is 0 probably ! ,lieut5ant-,gov]nor's c>riage4 ,bicycles 7 mu* 9 use bo? by ,europeans' 7m5 & wom57 & natives--! turban & loose pyjama-l clo!s ( ! latt] look+ /range on ! ma*9e4 ,! natives1 h[ev]1 ev]y:]e 9 ! t[ns :]e ! ,europeans' influ5ce comes 9 seem to take to ma*9es4 ,! sew+ ma*9e is con/antly se5 9 ! baza>s1 always1 h[ev]1 work$ by a man4 ,a c]ta9 firm's po/] ( ! et]nal woman enclos$ 9 a hide\s ,s 7l a mod]n ,eve & ! indu/rial s]p5t7 looks p>ticul>ly incongru\s & out ( place 9 ,india1 :]e !re seems to be no wom5 work+ at crafts4 ,! m5 d ! wa%+ too1 ! ,dhobee 9 :ite ) 8 bundle ( l95 be+ a frequ5t & *>act]i/ic figure4 ,no great] contra/ c\ld be imag9$ ?an t betwe5 ! ,engli% qu>t] & ! native city ly+ )9 its old walls & great gates1 ) its n>r[ picturesque /reets &--/9ks6 ,op5 dra9s z at ,amritz> run along ea* side ( ! /reets1 close 9 front ( ! baza>1 :]e ! p sit4 ,! fronts ( ! h\ses above ! op5 %ops are mo/ly ( wood ( a d>k ri* tone1 corbell$ arcad$ balconies & w9d[s jutt+ out ov] ! /reet at all sorts ( angles1 ri* ) delicate & v>i$ c>v+s1 z if ! build]s _h vi$ ) ea* o!r :i* %\ld make ! mo/ int]e/+ front4 ,!re are *>m+ little cov]$ v]&ahs & balconies ) sl5d] columns & ogee ar*es1 & pi]c$ scre5-"w pa9t$ "h & !re1 b mo/ly ! deep dusky br[n tone ( ! natural wood1 d>k ) age1 :i* =ms an effective backgr\nd to ! vivid col\rs & glitt] ( co/umes & drap]ies ( ! baza>s4 ,! newly dy$ long /rips ( cotton or musl9 9 orange or p9k1 gre5 or lemon yell[ :i* are hung out to dry1 wave l long bann]s ov] ! busy life ( ! n>r[ /reets1 :]e ! turban$ & _m col\r$1 sw>?y fac$ cr[d1 jo/le along1 or /& 9 *att]+ gr\ps ab\t ! %ops1 buy+ & sell+4 ,! types1 too1 are v v>i$--! ,h9du1 ! ,mohamm$an1 ! ,afghan1 ! c\ntry folk2 ! ,mohamm$an woman 9 tr\s]s1 ! ,h9du woman 9 h] graceful ,s>i1 ) h] glitt]+ silv] anklets1 & bracelets1 toe-r+s & nose-r+s2 d>k eyes & %9+ :ites mom5t>ily se51 & gleam+ tee?1 ! my/]i\s-look+ figures cov]$ f head to foot 9 fl[+ :ite drap]y1 pleat$ into a close fitt+ cap1 ) little p]=ations = ! eyes1 9 front1 ! effect ( ! :ole be+ gho/ly1 or ev5 gh\li%4 ,! :ite my/]y be+ only betray$ by a br[n foot b5ea? & ! gleam ( a silv] anklet :i* tells "o x is only ! disguise ( a ,mohamm$an woman4 ,illu/ration3 8,,! ,,woman ,,9 ,,:ite0 ,,at ,,lahore 7,,sugge/ion ,,= ,a ,,disguise ,,p>ty7 ,"h aga9 x 0 r disappo9t+ to see ! native baza>s full ( ,european goods1 & a trivial *eap k9d at t4 ,european comm]ce has evid5tly got its foot 94 ,blue enamell$ bas9s & cups1 t9 w>e1 tapes & buttons1 braces1 socks & ugly wooll5 sc>fs 9 anil9e col\rs are se5 ev]y:]e4 ,x is true t "o occasionally may see a native h&icraftsman at "w1 su* z ! man :o pr9ts ! ornam5tal bord]s on ! edges ( ! musl9 veils ( ! wom51 & picks !m out 9 silv] leaf1 silv] or orange be+ a fav\rite arrangem5t4 ,! metal-work] is also frequ5t1 ?\gh he (t5 only makes z9c /oves4 ,! food %ops are ! mo/ num]\s1 set out ) piles ( curi\s yell[ cakes & sweets ( all sorts & sizes1 ! cook+ /ove be+ (t5 9 front ( ! %op1 made ( clay or mud ) a t9y hole 9 :i* !y produce hot little fires4 ,?r\gh ! baza>s our c>riage work$ its way z ?r\gh a labyr9?4 ,! mix$ ?rong ( buy]s & sell]s1 begg>s & br[n babies1 & *eeky little /reet ,arabs1 :o are incl9$ to be rude to ! /rang] g5]ally1 tongas1 buffaloes1 h]ds ( goats1 /ray zebu bulls1 & fat-tail$ %eep4 ,^! latt] we fir/ saw at ,delhi4 ,!y are orig9ally f ,tibet4 ,! enorm\s developm5t ( ! tail1 or fleece ( ! tail1 has a v extraord9>y effect1 z if ! animal c>ri$ a bag ( wool beh9d x1 bo? broad & long & ne>ly t\*+ ! gr\nd4 ,occasionally we saw "o ( ^! animals 7rams7 dy$ ) orange col\r1 & m>k$ ) curi\s patt]ns all ov] its fleece4 ,pass+ ?r\gh ! baza>s we arriv$ at a l>ge op5 space1 & soon rea*$ ! 7,ro%anai7 gate ( ! ,=t on ! o!r side ( x4 ,!re ! ,engli% s5try1 aft] say+ an ord] 0 necess>y1 call$ an ord]ly to take u r\nd4 ,j inside ! gate we got a view ( ! old wall ( ! palace decorat$ by tiles1 ! col\rs be+ simil> to ^? us$ at ,gwalior1 at ! ,man ,m&ir palace1 pr9cipally turquoise1 gre51 & lemon yell[1 ! tile-"w be+ arrang$ 9 b&s or friezes ( elephants & birds 9 pr(ile1 let into ! r$ s&/one4 ,! v /olid ,briti% 8,tommy0 9 khaki conduct$ u1 9 sl[ m>*+ ord] & 9 solemn sil5ce1 up ! long slop+ road to ! squ>e ( ! ,=t :]e he po9t$ out1 )\t emotion1 a colonnad$ ,hall ( audi5ce1 & !n took u ?r\gh a gateway into ! r spaci\s c\rt ( ! old palace ( ,akb>1 :o also built ! ,=t4 ,on "o side ( ! c\rt 0 an int]e/+ arm\ry ( ,sikh weapons1 beg9n+ ) suits ( f9e *a9 mail & ,p]sian-look+ /eel topis1 damasce5$ & boss$ circul> t>ges up to fl9t-locks1 & mat*-locks1 & blund]busses4 ,!re 0 q a m$ival-look+ heavy /eel mace1 & _m sabres1 & sword /icks1 "s made ) crut* h&les t]m9at+ 9 horses' heads4 ,!re 7 also a numb] ( /eel cuirasses4 ,i believe ?is arm\ry 0 arrang$ by ,mr ,kipl+1 ! fa!r ( ,mr ,rudy>d ,kipl+1 :o 0 head ( ! art s*ool ( ,lahore = _m ye>s1 & to :om is due ! extremely int]e/+ museum4 ,!re 7 relics ( elaborate decoration on ! walls & vaults ( :at rema9$ ( ! palace1 & "s ( ! glass 7convex-mirror-mosaic7 "w unit$ ) gesso-relief ornam5t1 :i* we saw at ,udaipur1 ,amb]1 ,delhi1 & o!r places3 b ! ,briti% occupation _h tri$ its be/1 by introduc+ hide\s *unks ( b>rack build+s1 to take ! romance & beauty out ( ! place4 ,close to ! ,=t outside its gate is ! ,samadh1 or burn+-place ( ,ranjit ,s+h4 ,a c>v$ lotus fl[]1 surr\nd$ by elev5 small] ones1 on a rais$ plat=m inside ! pavilion-l build+1 m>k ! place :]e 8 body 0 burn$ ) elev5 ladies ( 8 ,z5ana4 ,n f> (f rises ! dome ( ! ,jama ,musjid & its noble m9>ets ( r$ s&/one4 ,!re is a f9e p>k-l c\ntry beyond ! walls on ?is side ( ! city ) gr\ps ( old trees4 ,! m9>ets & domes ( ,lahore h a /rik+ effect se5 f outside ! gate4 ,we return$ ?r\gh ! baza>s a diff]5t way1 pass+ ! gold5 dom$ mosque & also ! ,waz> ,khan mosque1 ! latt] a v f9e "o front+ a small squ>e 9 ! middle ( ! city1 & hav+ two l>ge m9>ets fac$ ) enamell$ tiles 9 blue & gre5 & o!r col\rs1 cobalt pr$om9at+4 ,! sp&rils ( ! ma9 entrance1 & 9 fact ! :ole ( ! front1 be+ decorat$ ) tiles 9 l>ge arabesques & bord]+s1 a l>ge ,arabic text 9 blue writt5 boldly ov] ! ar*1 & panels d[n ea* flank ( small] scale "w4 ,x 0 ! fir/ til$ mosque we _h se51 & q *>act]i/ic ( ! art ( a di/rict :i* culm9ates 9 ! r5[n$ tombs at ,multan4 ,at ! ,engli% club h\se on ! ,mall1 ! pip]s ( a ,highl& regim5t 7 play+ on ! lawn 9 front4 ,! club _h well laid out & ample lawn t5nis c\rts1 l>ge blue durries be+ hung at ea* end ( ! c\rts to /op ! balls1 & ! play]s _h native caddies to pick !m up4 ,!re 7 zoological g>d5s ne> by :]e we saw nylghaus & antelopes & birds ( v>i\s sorts4 ,a ,victoria memorial on a l>ge scale 0 9 progress at a place :]e bran*+ roads met4 ,! "w ( ! ,briti% sculptor 9 ,india _c be said to be mu* m exhil>at+ ?an ! "w ( ! ,briti% ar*itect1 z a rule1 to judge f ! specim5s we saw1 *iefly ( /atues ( ! late ,que5 ,victoria4 ,! c\rts ( ,ju/ice at ,lahore are m successful ?an mo/ ( ! mod]n examples 9 ,india1 p]haps because design$ 9 :at might be call$ ! local /yle--! ,mogul4 ,ne> by 9 a little g>d5 enclos$ by clipp$ h$ges 0 a bronze /atue ( ,"l ,laur5ce (f]+ ! *oice ( gov]nm5t by p5 or sword to ! pass] by4 ,x _h "s dramatic expression1 ?\gh ! *oice ( a mom5t>y attitude 9 a portrait /atue is p]haps op5 to criticism4 ,we visit$ ! museum1 :]e ,mr ,p]cy ,br[n has succe$$ ,mr ,kipl+ z director4 ,"h is a mo/ int]e/+ collection ( typical native textiles1 includ+ ! rais$ wax designs gild$1 silv]$1 & lacqu]$ on gr\nds ( diff]5t col\r$ clo?s1 an art :i* is /ill practis$ 9 ! di/rict ) success1 traditional designs ( fl[]s & birds be+ repeat$ 9 a v skilful & effective way1 & appli$ to ! adornm5t ( portires1 cov]s1 etc4 ,!re 7 also good collections ( native jewell]y & enamels4 ,*amplv enamel1 su* z is done at ,luckn[1 0 illu/rat$ by specim5s 9 diff]5t /ages f ! comm5cem5t to ! f9i%1 side by side ) cloisson 7,japanese7 illu/rat$ 9 ! same complete way1 z well z complete models %[+ native indu/ries & h&icrafts 9 op]ation2 int]e/+ old ,h9du h]bals & manuscripts on vellum ) *>act]i/ic m9iatures2 draw+s ( local palaces & g>d5s 9 plan1 elevation & bird's-eye p]spective4 ,!re 0 a v notable collection ( ,greco-,buddhi/ sculptures1 :i* 7 extremely int]e/+ & unusual4 ,v little wood-c>v+1 curi\sly en\gh1 except mod]n examples 9 scre5s & furniture1 ! "w ( ! ,art ,s*ool1 exhibit$ 9 a sep>ate room4 ,! city ( ,lahore be+ s ri* 9 c>v$ wood-"w x 0 less necess>y to h x 9 ! museum1 &1 ( c\rse1 mu* bett] to see x 9 situ4 ,! mod]n way ( sell+ ! spoils ( old build+s to private collections or to museums is c>ri$ on 9 ,europe to an al>m+ ext5t1 s t "o beg9s to fe>1 9 view ( ! rapid de/ruction ( anci5t h\ses n[ go+ on1 :e!r !re w soon be left any g5u9e bits ( antiquity 9 ?is comm]cial _w4 ,x is bett] ( c\rse t relics ( anci5t art %\ld f9d a hav5 9 a public museum ?an t x %\ld p]i% altoge!r1 b any de/ruction or removal = ! express purpose ( transportation to a museum %\ld be deprecat$4 ,on ! :ole ! ,lahore museum 0 a well-*os5 & arrang$ museum1 judici\sly limit$ to ,indian art1 & x 0 int]e/+ to see ! gr\ps ( natives--m51 wom51 & *ildr5--app>5tly scann+ ! diff]5t objects ) ! greate/ int]e/ & ) mu* animat$ conv]sation among !mselves4 ,"o aft]noon we drove to ! ,waza ,khan ,mosque1 & ,i made ! sket* reproduc$ "h ( ! entrance to ! mosque f ! c>riage4 ,! cr[d 0 curi\s1 b n ne>ly s tr\blesome z else:]e1 & our conductor1 or runn+ footman1 kept !m (f pretty well4 ,! squ>e _h l>ge pools ( mud 9 x "h & !re aft] rec5t ra9s4 ,zebus 7 /ray+ ab\t1 or ly+ d[n4 ,fruit & good /alls occupi$ o!r p>ts ( ! gr\nd1 & ox-c>ts deposit$ loads ( wood4 ,m5 sat 9 gr\ps 9 ! por* ( ! mosque1 or on ! /eps1 f :i* boys flew _! little diamond-%ap$ pap] kites4 ,! my/]i\s-look+ :ite figures ( ! ,mohamm$an wom5 w&]$ ab\t l sub/antial gho/s4 ,we saw a pretty little gazelle at "o ( ! /alls1 p]fectly tame1 & a great pet ( ! native :o own$ x4 ,! ,ca%m]e travell+ m]*ants1 :o display _! tempt+ w>es at all ! hotels1 spread out _! /uffs 9 pr(usion--,bokh>a embroid]ies1 ,p]sian cov]s1 k9cobs1 turbans1 & portires ( black1 r$1 or gre5 gr\nds1 effectively decorat$ ) designs 9 ! rais$ wax1 su* z we saw 9 ! museum--& us$ all _! p]suasive arts to effect sales4 ,we did n /ay long en\gh 9 ,lahore to see mu* ( ! ,society !re1 b be=e leav+ we _h a visit f ! ,pr9cess ,duleep ,s+h & h] si/]1 :o1 he>+ f fri5ds at ,amritz> t we 7 !re1 came to see u at ! hotel4 ,! pr9cess 0 dress$ z a ,p>see lady 9 beautiful classical drap]ies1 :ite ) embroid]$ bord]s1 & %e drove h]self 9 a dog-c>t1 b ! si/] 0 9 ,european dress4 ,! pr9cess recall$ ! circum/ance ( my hav+ made a little sket* 9 h] bro!r ! pr9ce's cottage on ! ,norfolk coa/1 :i* _h be5 design$ = him by ,mr ,detm> ,bl[1 :i* we visit$ :5 /ay+ 9 ! neighb\rhood4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,m]*ants ,,( ,,ka%mir ,we left ,lahore ! mid-day ,luckn[ ,mail1 aft] a long wait1 ! plat=m cov]$ ) picturesque gr\ps ( squatt+ natives4 ,we ev5tually %>$ a comp>tm5t1 z f> z ,umballa1 ) an ,engli% (ficial1 8 ,g]man wife & a little girl4 ,z f> z ,umballa on ?is l9e1 com+ nor?1 we _h already j\rney$4 ,! *ief incid5t aft] leav+ ,lahore 0 ! cat*+ fire ( "o ( ! boxes ( "o ( ! c>riages ( our tra91 :i* caus$ ! pass5g]s ha/ily to leave x1 & cr[d into o!r p>ts ( ! tra91 :5 x 0 /opp$ & ! burn+ c>riage tak5 (f at a small /ation j be=e ,amritz>4 ,illu/ration3 ,,lahore--,,! ,,mosque ,,( ,,waza ,,khan ,at ,umballa1 ! d9+ /ation1 :i* we rea*$ :5 x 0 d>k1 "s said we _h to *ange1 o!rs said n4 ,?is 0 puzzl+4 ,"o (ficial ) m au?ority ?an ! o!rs said emphatically 8no10 at la/4 ,s1 hav+ j "t1 we scurri$ across ! bridge to ! refre%m5t room ) light he>ts & %>p appetites1 snat*$ a ha/y meal & hurri$ back to f9d ,moonsawmy1 :o act$ z c\ri] & took *>ge ( ! tickets1 9 "s difficulty ) ! (ficials ab\t ! tickets4 ,"o (ficial 7! /ationma/]7 came up1 & !n said we ought to h *ang$ into ! tra9 :i* 0 j at t mom5t /eam+ out ( ! /ation1 excus+ 8 mi/ake by say+ t he _h n till !n se5 our tickets1 fussily ord]+ a humble ,h9du cl]k to take ! numb]s4 ,aft] ?is we got into our comp>tm5t aga9 & settl$ ourselves = a sleep1 z we 7 n due at ,luckn[ until next morn+4 ,dur+ ! night we 7 con/antly di/urb$ by p op5+ ! c>riage door & pe]+ 9--no d\bt 9 se>* ( l[] b]?s1 :i* we occupi$4 ,at "o place a ,eurasian got 9 ) a quantity ( baggage1 & got out aga9 only a few /ations (f4 ,on leav+1 p]ceiv+ he _h di/urb$ u he said he 0 8sorry = ! tr\ble40 ,at ,b>ielly ano!r man 7,engli%7 got 9 ) 8 traps & rugs & settl$ himself to sleep on ! middle b]?--:i* 9 "s c>riages economises space betwe5 ! two side ones--?\gh he 0 at fir/ a little tak5 aback at see+ t "o ( u 0 a lady4 ,h[ev]1 he turn$ out to be a v agreeable companion aft]w>ds1 & we got q fri5dly z ! tra9 ! next morn+ approa*$ ,luckn[1 we hav+ previ\sly decid$ n to /op at ,cawnpore4 ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,luckn[ ,arriv+ at ,luckn[ 9 due c\rse we p>t$ ) our fell[ travell]1 :o 0 met by ! milit>y *apla91 & we did n see him aga94 ,! *apla9 k9dly gave u "s in=mation1 & said t ! hotel we 7 b\nd = 0 reput$ to be 8! be/ 9 ,india40 ,?is 0 good he>+1 & we f\nd x q borne out by our exp]i5ce ( ,wurtzl]'s1 :]e we pres5tly f\nd ourselves 9 com=table rooms1 bungal[-l1 op5+ on to a v]&ah4 ,! hotel _h =m]ly be5 a palace1 & 0 r a h&some build+ 9 its way1 ) a r\nd-ar*$ arcad$ front1 long & l[1 ) a pleasant enclosure ( trees & fl[] g>d54 ,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,hospital1 ,,luckn[4 ,,! ,,op]at+ ,,table 7,,pati5t ,,_h ,a ,,bit ,,( ,,grit ,,9 ,,h] ,,eye ,,aft] ,a ,,tra9 ,,j\rney7--,,sixte5 ,,rupees ,,7 ,,extract$6 ,!re 0 8a little rift )9 ! lute10 h[ev]1 :i* r m>r$ ! fir/ mom5ts ( our arrival at ,luckn[1 my wife hav+ un=tunately got a little bit ( grit 9 h] eye f ! eng9e :ile 9 ! tra94 ,!re 0 no?+ = x b to drive to ! hospital ! fir/ ?+ aft] breakfa/4 ,luckily we caught ! *ief surgeon 7,col4 ,&]son7 j z he 0 att5d+ to "s native cases 9 wait+4 ,he at once took u to ! 8op]at+ room10 :i* s\nd$ r fe>some1 & 0 inde$ a sev]e place ) a poli%$ m>ble floor1 a case ( surgical in/rum5ts & an op]at+ table be+ ! only furniture visible4 ,! poor eye-pati5t _h to ext5d h]self on ! table1 :ile ! ,colonel v deftly f\nd & quickly remov$ a t9y black speck :i* _h caus$ all ! tr\ble--work+ up "r "u ! upp] lid ( ! eye4 ,he put "s coca9e into ! eye fir/ ( all1 & aft]w>ds appli$ a little l9t & lotion4 ,! relief mu/ h be5 wor? any?+--x might h be5 describ$ z a less] ,relief ( ,luckn[6 ,illu/ration3 ,,juggl]s ,,at ,,luckn[--,,! ,,mango ,,tree ,,trick ,! next example ( human skill or sleight ( h& we witness$ 0 9 ! juggl+1 n ! surgical1 pr(ession4 ,x 0 a native conjur] :o1 "u ! arcade ( ! hotel1 %[$ u ! fam\s mango tree trick4 ,z additional attractions1 or a sort ( side-%[1 he _h a l>ge cobra 9 a r\nd box1 :i*1 :5 ! lid 0 (f1 re>$ its head all alive & hiss+1 & ready = a p]=mance ) a well-to-d mongoose1 :i* 0 held 9 read9ess by a cord ti$ tightly r\nd its neck1 :i* is app>5tly ! only way 9 :i* to secure a mongoose4 ,! man comm5c$ 8 p]=mance by plac+ a monkey's skull on ! pavem5t1 & /ick+ a little *9a doll up 9 front ( x4 ,!n he produc$ a v dry-look+ mango se$ ab\t ! size ( a small potato1 & ?is he plant$ c>efully 9 an ord9>y e>!n fl[]-pot1 cov]+ ! se$ ) soil1 & !n wat]+ x1 mutt]+ "s unkn[n words ov] x4 ,he !n put x "u a clo? rais$ t5twise by a /ick1 to let x gr[1 z he said1 :ile he w5t on ) a numb] ( small b v skilful conjur+ tricks ) c>ds1 co9s1 m>bles1 r+ & h&k]*ief1 etc41 any ( :i* he (f]$ to tea*4 ,pres5tly he lift$ ! clo? & %[$ ! mango tree s5d+ up a %oot ( fre% gre51 & app>5tly gr[+ vigor\sly4 ,!n he cov]$ x up aga9 & p]=m$ "s m tricks1 aft] :i* he aga9 uncov]$ ! mango1 :i* n[ %[$ a /em & bun* ( leaves at ! top l a m9iature tree4 ,f9ally1 aft] ano!r int]val ( a few m9utes juggl+ & conjur+1 he lift$ ! clo? aga91 &1 hold+ ! pot 9 "o h&1 he pull$ up ! little mango tree ) ! o!r1 %[+ x _h /em1 roots1 & all4 ,! man _h an assi/ant1 b he only play$ a v subord9ate "p1 h&+ ! conjur] ! v>i\s ?+s he want$ f "t to "t1 hold+ ! mongoose1 b n p]=m+ 9 any way4 ,^! wond]s 7 to be se5 = ! fee ( ?ree rupees4 ,! conjur] 0 v pr\d ( 8 8*its0 :i* he %[$1 & among ! signatures 7 ^? ( 8,ca/l]eagh0 & 8,w5lock02 & he ask$ = a writt5 te/imonial 9 8 book4 ,at ,luckn[ we _h an introduction to ! ,*ief ,commission]1 ,mr ,ross ,scott1 :o receiv$ u v cordially at 8 *>m+ h\se1 & (f]$ to d any?+ = u4 ,among o!r k9dnesses he s5t my wife 7^: heal? _h suff]$ f ! climate ev]y:]e 9 ,india7 a supply ( excell5t milk f 8 own c[s dur+ h] /ay1 :i* prov$ ( imm5se b5efit4 ,at 8 h\se we met ,mrs ,d[d5 & h] daught]1 :o k9dly und]took to %[ u ov] ! ru9s ( ! ,resid5cy :i* 7 q close by4 ,! build+ /&s1 or :at rema9s ( x aft] ! bomb>dm5t x su/a9$ dur+ ! t]rible days ( 8! ,mut9y10 amid pleasant lawns & f9e trees1 & creep]s cov] ! ru9s4 ,9 "o ( ! rooms is a good model ( ! ,resid5cy z x 0 9 #aheg 9 ! mid/ ( ! native city on a ris+ gr\nd1 b ?ickly surr\nd$ by ! h\ses & mosques1 f :i* guns & mort>s 7 tra9$ on to x4 ,^! 7 %[n plant$ on flat ro(s or 9 c\rty>ds1 :]ev] !re 0 vantage gr\nd4 ,no?+ b a few %apeless ru9s rema9 h]eab\ts n[ ( ! old native city1 :i* has s9ce be5 curtail$ & cut 9 two by a broad road = ! rapid movem5t ( troops4 ,h[ev] savage & cruel ! sepoys may h be51 ! ,briti% reprisals 7 c]ta9ly sev]e4 ,!y seem$ to h practically 8wip$ out0 old ,luckn[ aft]w>ds4 ,we 7 %[n a build+--! ,sik&] ,bagh--a high-wall$ enclosure1 once a fair rose g>d51 :i* 0 tak5 by ,col9 ,campbell1 & :]e #bjjj rebels 7 bayonet$ )\t m]cy by ! ,briti% troops4 ,a "y ,engli% (fic]1 speak+ pr(essionally1 p]haps1 we met at a fri5d's h\se1 said t ,sik&] ,bagh gave him m satisfaction ?an any o!r memorial ( ! mut9y4 ,he positively 8gloat$ ov] x10 & int5d$ to g !re aga9 & 8gloat40 ,x is said ev5 t ,briti% soldi]s bayonet$ ev5 ! sick & w\nd$ ,h9du soldi]s 9 ! hospitals :o begg$ to be %ot in/ead6 ,! :ole place is ov]%ad[$ by memories ( t awful p]iod4 ,no?+ c impair ! c\rage & endurance ( ! h]oic def5d]s ( ! ,resid5cy2 b x is n[1 ,i believe1 g5]ally admitt$ t ! outbreak 0 n )\t its causes1 & t ! gov]nm5t ( ! day did n act judici\sly1 to say ! lea/4 ,x is commonly call$ 8,! ,mut9y10 b x 0 really an insurrection1 :i* mu/ f v>i\s causes h be5 sm\ld]+ = "s "t be=e x bur/ into flame4 ,! 8greas$ c>tridges0 7 only ! la/ /raw4 ,!re seems to h be5 mu* discont5t4 ,_m sepoys1 too1 _h be5 disb&$4 ,! ,briti% annexation1 ! deposition & deportation ( ! reign+ ,k+ ( ,oudh & ! confiscation ( 8 rev5ues1 mu/ all be consid]$ z provocative causes2 & x is a "q :e!r at any "t ,briti% rule has made itself lov$ 9 ,india1 or ! ,briti% resid5ts h ev] really und]/ood ! ,indian p4 ,native feel+ mu/ h be5 g5]ally ignor$4 ,x 0 a =midable revolt1 accompani$1 no d\bt1 by explosions ( race hatr$ & by t]rible cruelties1 b !re 0 savag]y on bo? sides--a desp]ate attempt to rega9 possession ( _! own c\ntry & its gov]nm5t on ! "p ( ! pr9ces & p4 ,! "q rema9s1 ) all ! (ficial solicitude ( ! ,briti% gov]nm5t = ! welf>e ( ! natives1 all ! railways1 eng9e]+1 & irrigation works1 are !y really bett] (f ?an !y 7 "u native rule8 ,are !y n1 ?\gh "u ,briti% adm9i/ration1 m heavily tax$ ?an !y 7 "u ! native k+s8 ,mr ,william ,digby1 ,c4,i4,e41 :o _h long p]sonal & (ficial exp]i5ce 9 ,india1 br+s a =midable array ( facts & /ati/ics 7f (ficial s\rces1 too71 9 8 8,prosp]\s ,briti% ,india10 9 support ( ! view t !y are1 &1 moreov]1 t ! ryot--! till] ( ! soil--is gradually becom+ poor] "u our rule4 ,to a pass+ obs]v]1 ! ,h9dus--nay1 ! p ( ,india1 ei!r ,h9dus or ,mohamm$ans--c nev] be ,europeanis$4 ,!re is a great gulf betwe5 ! ,ea/ & ! ,we/4 ,aft] all ^! ye>s ( ,briti% occupation & adm9i/ration1 ! two races live entirely ap>t & sep>ate4 ,9 religion1 mann]s1 & cu/oms1 & s5tim5t1 !y are fundam5tally diff]5t1 oppos$1 "o might say4 ,! ,briti% rema9 a transitory g>rison ( milit>y & civil adm9i/rative ali5s1 9 ! mid/ ( va/ populations1 root$ 9 ! traditions1 religi\s beliefs & obs]vances ( untold c5turies1 dur+ :i* !y h c>ri$ on ! same mode ( life1 & :o seem nei!r to seek or to desire *ange4 ,! m]e /ruggle to live mu/ occupy ! en]gies ( ! va/ majority1 b among ! m educat$ & leisur$ classes ( natives !re is a gr[+ feel+ ( :at we %\ld call nationalism 9 ,europe1 ?\gh x may be m /rictly racial ?an national4 ,x is difficult1 h[ev]1 to see h[ any?+ l a univ]sal movem5t ov] ! :ole p59sula c\ld arise1 consid]+ ! diff]5ces ( ca/e1 race & religion1 or ! wide diff]5ces :i* sep>ate ,h9dus & ,mohamm$ans4 ,"s1 h[ev]1 r ?9k t political *ange may be =c$ by bankruptcy1 consid]+ ! pov]ty ( ! p & ! limits ( taxation be+ rea*$4 ,we 7 %[n1 at ! ,resid5cy1 ! room :]e ,sir ,h5ry ,laur5ce 0 /ruck ) ! %ell1 ! holes its explosion made 9 ! wall1 8 grave also1 & _m o!r memorials :i* h a pr(\nd int]e/ = ! ,engli% visitors4 ,old ru/-eat51 muzzle-load+ muskets1 sabres1 & %ot & %ell1 ) :i* ! ,resid5cy 0 pepp]$1 7 collect$ 9 a gr\p 9 "o ( ! rooms1 & ! place1 z f> z possible1 has be5 made an hi/orical museum ( ! p]iod ( ! siege4 ,our fri5ds introduc$ u at ! ,*att] ,manzel1 =m]ly a palace ( ! k+s ( ,oudh1 b n[ us$ z an ,engli% club4 ,! rooms 7 ( spaci\s & good proportions--long 9 comp>ison ) _! wid?4 ,proportion1 9 fact1 is ! pr9cipal notable quality ( ! local ar*itecture at ,luckn[1 ! details be+ comp>atively common-place aft] ! beautiful inv5tive detail & decoration ( ! ,mogul ar*itects at ,delhi & ,agra1 ! ornam5tation be+ mo/ly m]e repetitions4 ,aft] ! m>ble inlay ( ! ,taj ,mahal & ! ,diwan-ud-,daulat1 & ,sik&ra1 or ! ri* arabesques ( ! ,z5ana rooms at ,amb]1 ! :ite & yell[ wa% & ! r co>se pla/] "w ( ! palaces & pavilions ( ,luckn[ look1 comp>atively speak+1 *eap4 ,! /ucco$ domes ( ! mosques miss ! spl5d\r ( ! gold & ivory-l m>ble se5 else:]e4 ,ev5 ! ,jama ,musjid1 f9e 9 scale z x is1 lacks ! *>m ( col\r4 ,!re 0 a small] mosque ne> ! old /one bridge1 h[ev]1 :i* /ood out aga9/ ! deep-blue sky 9 dazzl+ :it5ess1 b ?is only %[$ h[ beautiful pla9 :itewa% appe>s illum9at$ by ! ,indian sun--pe>ly ) delicate reflections & w>m %ad[s4 ,! ,iamb>a _h a beautifully-proportion$ c\rt1 ) /eps up to ! pavilion1 ! symmetry ( ! spac+ be+ r pleasantly brok5 by ! mosque on "o side be+ plac$ at a diff]5t angle 9 ord] to po9t to ! direction ( ,mecca1 z all ,mohamm$an mosques mu/ d4 ,inside ! pavilion1 "u canopies ( heavy embroid]y 9 gold & silv]1 support$ by *as$ silv] poles1 7 ! tombs ( "o ( ! k+s & 8 z5ana4 ,on ! walls 7 mirrors :i* rem9d$ u ( our ,engli% empire-p]iod fram$ mantle-glasses4 ,"s ( ^! _h curi\s temp]a pa9t+s ins]t$ 9 _! frames ( native birds & trees1 & !re 7 o!r ,indian pa9t+s1 "o %[+ ,g5]al or ,capta9 ,m>t9--! ,fr5* adv5tur] :o f\nd$ ! ,m>t9ire at ,luckn[ 9 ! e>ly n9ete5? c5tury--9 a blue coat & gold lace & :ite nanke5 tr\s]s1 l a naval (fic] ( t p]iod1 conf]r+ ) ! ,k+ ( ,oudh & 8 c\rt4 ,an image ( a w+$ horse 7a ,buddhi/ symbol7 /rik+ly resembl$ ! ,assyrian type ( w+$ man-head$ creatures1 ! treatm5t be+ rem>kably simil>4 ,! cr[n$ head1 ) long1 black1 curl$ locks1 & =mal1 r small1 w+s1 ) ea* fea!r express$4 ,!re 0 an umbrella atta*$1 :i* mov$ to & fro ov] ! head ( ! figure by clock-"w4 ,we 7 int]e/$ to see 9 ! ,daulat ,khan--a sort ( gall]y up a /eep flight ( /eps--a s]ies ( full-l5g? portraits ( ! k+s ( ,oudh 9 _! robes1 pa9t$ by ,engli% arti/s4 ,mo/ ( ^! 7 sign$ by my fri5d ,t4 ,erat ,h>rison1 #ahhb-d1 & ,i recall$ ! fact ( hav+ se5 him at "w on "o ( !m ab\t t "t4 ,an ,engli% lady1 ,mrs ,d[d5 7wife ( ,colonel ,d[d571 0 k9d en\gh to conduct u ?r\gh ,luckn[ & its wond]s1 & %e prov$ an excell5t cic]one1 & wav$ (f all unnecess>y att5tions f c>etak]s & _! hang]s-on ) ! decisive air ( a resid5t4 ,we pass$ a hide\s clock t[]--"o ( _m 9 ,india--put up by "s mod]n ar*itect 7z a ,jubilee memorial1 ,i ?9k74 ,x is a/oni%+ :at mon/rosities 9 clock t[]s h be5 p]petrat$ by mod]n ar*itects 9 ,india4 ,f9ally1 we got to ! gate ( ! old city ( ,luckn[1 by :i* we ent]$ ! pr9cipal /reet ( ! baza>4 ,!re 7 _m int]e/+ native %ops4 ,at "o ,i notic$ "s blocks ( patt]ns = pr9t+ by h& on cotton4 ,!y 7 cut 9 "s h>d wood4 ,! h&icraft1 too1 0 /ill c>ri$ on "h4 ,!re 7 _m pretty bead necklaces1 tassels1 & qua9t toys4 ,we visit$1 up a /eep n>r[ /aircase1 a musl9 & jewel m]*ant's /ore4 ,he %[$ "s *>m+ ,indian musl9s spangl$ ) silv] spots & patt]ns4 ,he also _h "o or two pieces ( old ,luckn[ enamel n ord9>ily se5 9 ! baza>s n[4 ,illu/ration3 ,,bett] ,,luck ,,at ,,luckn[--,,?r\gh ,,! ,,*[k ,,on ,,an ,,elephant ,we visit$ ano!r fri5d :o _h be5 sp5d+ ! w9t] at ,luckn[--,mrs ,jopl+-,r[e1 ! well-kn[n arti/1 ^: son is a ,magi/rate "h1 d9+ ) !m at _! *>m+ bungal[ "o ev5+4 ,mr ,commission] ,jopl+ v c\rte\sly plac$ elephants at our disposal on :i* to ride ?r\gh ! *[k4 ,an irrigation well ne> ! hotel int]e/$ me1 & ,i made a sket* ( x 9 a *equ]$ %ade4 ,! yoke ( ox5 & two natives at "w haul+ up ! wat] = ! g>d5 9 a lea!r bucket4 ,:ile ?us engag$ ano!r fri5d travell+ 9 ! ,ea/ came up1 s t z reg>ds fri5ds we 7 q 9 luck's way at ,luckn[4 ,aft] ?is x 0 "t to g & meet ! elephants our fri5ds _h ord]$ at ! *[k4 ,mrs ,jopl+-,r[e took u 9 h] c>riage ?r\gh ,w5twor? ,p>k1 & pa/ ! palaces to ! gate ( ! city1 :]e we f\nd two f9e elephants 9 wait+4 ,my wife & ,i m\nt$ "o ( !m by ! usual ladd]1 ! animal kneel+4 ,a "y (fic] :o 0 ( ! p>ty1 h[ev]1 %[$ u ano!r way4 ,he got a leg up by means ( ! trunk1 & s ov] ! elephant's head on to 8 back4 ,we !n process$ ?r\gh ! baza> 7! *[k71 prec$$ by a native policeman1 9 khaki ) a sc>let turban1 to cle> ! way1 & two m beh9d4 ,! elephants seem$ to q fill up ! n>r[ /reet1 s t !re 0 dang] ( a block :5 we met an ox-c>t4 ,a v compreh5sive view is to be _h f an elephant's back1 z "o c see n only a long way ahead1 b well into ! %ops :]e ! p are at "w1 & also comm& ! balconies & ro(s1 :]e !re 7 (t5 int]e/+ gr\ps4 ,illu/ration3 ,,irrigation ,,well1 ,,luckn[ ,we ?read$ our way ?r\gh ! *[k1 pass+ at its end "u "o ( ! old ar*$ gateways & along a n>r[] /reet1 :i* l$ u out into ! broad milit>y road1 :i* ! ,briti%1 aft] ! revolt1 ru?lessly cut "r ?r\gh ! old city1 uglify+ x1 ( c\rse4 ,!re is a wond]ful v>iety & ri*ness1 aga91 "h1 9 ! old h\se fronts ) arcad$ balconies & doorways ( c>v$ wood4 ,! patt]ns1 *iefly runn+ bord]s1 treat$ v fancifully & delicately4 ,! native h\ses 7 n s high z 9 ,lahore1 b ! c>v+ might comp>e ) ! same sort ( "w !re 9 detail4 ,we lun*$ at ! *>m+ abode ( ano!r ,engli% (ficial & 8 wife 7,mr & ,mrs ,saund]s71 :o 7 v pleasant & hospitable4 ,! lady _h consid]able ta/e 9 furniture & decoration1 & h] rooms %[$ ! influ5ce ( :ite & gre51 & look$ cool & agreeable 9 a light key4 ,aft]w>ds we drove to see ! celebrat$ ,m>t9ire1 ! "y (fic] accompany+ u4 ,! ,m>t9ire is ! fanta/ic palace built by ! ,fr5* ,g5]al or ,capta9 ,m>t91 be=e m5tion$1 & is a curi\s conglom]ate sort ( sc5ic design ( late ,italo-,fr5* ,r5aissance "*1 rem9d+ "o r ( ,isola ,bella1 semi-classical figures be+ p]*$ on e p9nacle & balu/rade1 & !re 7 two grotesque lions1 do+ duty z support]s or consoles1 ) m\?s s op5 t ! sky c\ld be se5 ?r\gh !m4 ,! build+ t[]$ high 9 sev]al /ories 9 ! c5tre1 & spread out wide into two curv$ long & l[ w+s ( "o /ory1 op5+ on to broad t]races & /eps lead+ to a small lake1 f ! middle ( :i* rose a flut$ column4 ,! g5]al's he>t is said to be buri$ b5ea? ?is4 ,! ,m>t9ire 0 int5d$ by him to be a college = boys4 ,he f\nd$ ano!r at ,calcutta1 & ano!r 9 8 native t[n--,lyons--9 ,france4 ,m>t9 seems to h _h a curi\s1 ev5tful hi/ory1 beg9n+ z a ,fr5* prison]1 "u ! ,briti%1 aft]w>ds ent]+ ! ,briti% army & becom+ a capta91 :5 he took s]vice "u ! ,nawab ( ,oudh & became g5]al ( 8 army1 f9ally accumulat+ by "s means a l>ge =tune1 :i* he sp5t on ?is build+ & 9 f\nd+ ! s*ools :i* be> 8 "n4 ,we pass$ ano!r h\se ru9$ at ! "t ( 8! ,mut9y10 :5ce ! wom5 & *ildr5 7 remov$ to f ! ,resid5cy1 & :]e ,lieut5ant ,paul is buri$4 ,mr ,ross ,scott ent]ta9$ u ) a di/+ui%$ company to d9n] at 8 hospitable h\se be=e we left ,luckn[4 ,"o ,engli% colonel ( ! p>ty ) :om ,i _h a conv]sation _h rec5tly return$ f ,burmah1 & _h br\ght back "s f9e silk embroid]$ robes1 "s *9a b[ls1 & caps4 ,! latt] 7 ( s(t felt1 & c\ld be worn ei!r ) ! edge turn$ d[n or up1 =m+ a brim4 ,! colonel _h liv$ "s "t 9 ,burmah & _h se5 s]vice !re1 hav+ be5 ?r\gh ! ,briti% campaign aga9/ ! 8,dacoits40 ,he said t ! ,dacoits 7 l>gely compos$ ( m5 ( ! disb&$ native army 7= :i* ,i suppose our ,gov]nm5t 7 responsible71 & !y roam$ ab\t ! c\ntry prey+ on ! p1 plund]+ & sometimes murd]+ !m4 ,! ,burmese p1 he said1 only want$ to be left alone 9 peace 7l mo/ p74 ,he _h made _m fri5ds among !m1 z he knew ! language & _h liv$ among/ !m at t "t4 ,on revisit+ ! c\ntry & f9d+ ?+s "u ,briti% control & adm9i/ration1 he f\nd mo/ ( 8 ,burmese native fri5ds 9 prison4 ,!y 7 !re1 he said1 m]ely = break+ "s (ficial regulation :i* probably !y did n 9 ! lea/ und]/&4 ,! natives compla9$ to him t ! ,engli% (ficials liv$ alo( f !m1 & 7 n fri5dly & sympa!tic z he 7! ,colonel7 _h be51 & !y nev] got any =w>d]4 ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,b5>es ,our next de/9ation 0 ,b5>es4 ,i _h = long _h ! feel+1 f ! descriptions "o _h read & ! photographs "o _h se5 ( ?is wond]ful place1 t x w\ld sum up & c5tralise1 z x 71 to ! eye ! :ole life ( ! ,indian p1 :ile x w\ld also be a symbol ( _! fai? to ! m9d4 ,x 01 !re=e1 ) unusual anticipations t we turn$ our faces ?i!r1 & on ! #ba/ ( ,janu>y took ! e>ly morn+ tra9 f ,luckn[ to ! great focus ( ,h9du wor%ip on ! sacr$ ,ganges4 ,! k9d commission]'s native s]vant1 9 sc>let1 await$ u at ! /ation ) a p>t+ gift & a note ( introduction to ! ,mah>ajah ( ,b5>es4 ,! tra9 pass$ ?r\gh a ri*] & m fruitful c\ntry ?an usual1 b level1 pla9 all ! way1 rea*+ ,b5>es ,cantonm5t ab\t two o'clock4 ,we drove to ,cl>k's hotel1 :i* has a pretty portico full ( palms1 & a spl5did orange creep]1 !n 9 full fl[]1 hung ov] ! usual bungal[ annexe4 ,! h\se 0 quiet1 & _h a semi-private aspect1 m l a c\ntry bungal[4 ,f9d+ ! ,mah>ajah's palace 0 "s five or six miles (f & on ! o!r side ( ! riv]1 we 7 advis$ to leave our lett] at ! ,gue/ ,h\se ) our c>ds4 ,! ,gue/ ,h\se 0 q ne> by4 ,cont9u+ our drive ?r\gh ! baza> we ?\ght ! ma9 /reet wid] ?an mo/ ( ! native cities1 b ! baza>s did n look s busy1 & _m %ops 7 vacant4 ,balconies1 ! ro(s ( :i* 7 support$ on arcades ( sl5d] columns ) ,h9du caps1 7 ( a diff]5t type to ^? hi!rto se54 ,9 ! ,european qu>t] !re 7 poorly-design$1 w\ld-be ,go?ic ,briti% build+s1 & mission *ur*es ( ! usual bald type4 ,!re 0 a ,que5's ,p>k ) ! commonplace iron rail+ & l[ /one p>apet enclos+ x1 ^! innovations1 z usual1 q spoil+ ! surr\nd+s ( a native city4 ,! next morn+ we _h a visit f ! ,mah>ajah's private secret>y1 :o invit$ u to drive 9 ! aft]noon to visit ! ,buddhi/ topes & sculptures at ,s>na? ab\t five miles f ,b5>es4 ,an ,am]ican lady we _h previ\sly met 0 to be ( ! p>ty1 & %e 0 /ay+ at ! ,gue/ ,h\se1 & at ! appo9t$ h\r ! ,mah>ajah's c>riage1 ) a coa*man 9 a gre5 & gold turban & sc>let tunic1 & two active "y ,h9dus1 simil>ly dress$1 act$ z runn+ footm5 to cle> ! way1 :5 n at _! po/s /&+ at ! back ( ! c>riage4 ,we call$ at ! ,gue/ ,h\se = our ,am]ican fri5d4 ,x 0 a m palatial build+ ?an ! "o at ,gwalior1 /&+ 9 a small p>k ) out] gates & a drive4 ,! h\se 0 9 ! classic /yle--a :ite build+ ) flat ro( & column$ portico4 ,9 ! l>ge hall on ! gr\nd floor !re 0 a small col\r$ /atuette ( ! ,mah>ajah on horseback1 photographs & portraits ^u ! walls1 includ+ ,engli% m9iatures ( an ,engli% (fic] & 8 ladies ( ! e>ly n9ete5? c5tury1 & "s engrav+s ( portraits ( ,que5 ,c>ol9e4 ,a /uff$ lioness 0 ly+ on a side-bo>d4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,mah>ajah ,,places ,,8 ,,c>riage ,,at ,,our ,,disposal ,! road to ,s>na? lay ?r\gh av5ues ( f9e trees a great "p ( ! way1 *iefly mangoes1 banyans1 acacias1 & tam>9ds4 ,! "y trees plant$ to fill ! gaps 7 protect$ by circul> f5ces1 sometimes topp$ by prickly pe>s4 ,sometimes ! circul> f5ce 0 made ( bricks1 an ap]ture be+ left betwe5 e alt]nate brick4 ,at ,s>na? we saw ! results ( rec5t excavations4 ,!re 0 a wond]ful pill> made out ( a s+le piece ( m>ble1 b fractur$ 9 digg+ x out4 ,"o "p /ood upright 9 ! e>?1 ! o!r lay horizontally4 ,! top or cap 0 plac$ "u an awn+ ne> by4 ,x 0 =m$ ( f\r lions fac+ outw>ds1 _! heads1 *e/s1 & =e limbs be+ alone visible1 _! claws re/+ on ! rim ( a circul> fillet1 on :i* 0 sculptur$ 9 l[ relief a horse1 an elephant1 a lion1 & a bull1 ea* animal be+ plac$ betwe5 a :eel ( a sol> "*1 ea* :eel hav+ tw5ty-f\r spokes4 ,bel[ ?is fillet 0 a curv$ droop+ fr+e ( leaves su* z are *>act]i/ic 9 ,p]sian columns z well z ,h9du4 ,! m>ble ( :i* ! column & ! sculptures 7 made 0 ( a peculi> greyi% almo/ ( a fle% col\r1 ) small spots4 ,bo? ! column & ! sculptures 7 v highly poli%$1 & ! treatm5t ( ! lions 0 rem>kably ,greek 9 "* ) p]haps a t\* ( ,p]sian or ev5 ,assyrian =malism 9 ! treatm5t ( ! heads & manes ( ! lions4 ,! animals 9 relief1 betwe5 ! :eels1 too1 7 rem>kably free1 spirit$1 & well modell$4 ,!re 7 ! rema9s ( an anci5t ,buddhi/ temple ne>4 ,9 :at 0 probably ! inn] %r9e 0 a sculptur$ /&+ figure ( ,buddha1 ab\t two-?irds life size1 9 alto relievo4 ,! figure 0 repres5t$ 9 a long robe1 ! limbs be+ boldly express$ ?r\gh ! drap]y1 :i* hung broadly & smoo?ly ov] !m1 )\t folds1 except at ! sides1 :i* 7 treat$ 9 ! r =mal spiral mann] ( e>ly ,greek "w4 ,! ,am]ican lady rem>k$ on see+ ?is figure t 8,! g5tleman seems to h put 8 legs ?r\gh 8 clo!s40 ,! figure 0 fram$ 9 a bord] ( a/ralagus1 cut 9 l[ relief1 hav+ a runn+ escallop$ bord] outside x & /epp$ m\ld+s4 ,! doorway to ?is %r9e1 too1 _h a ri*ly c>v$ bord]+4 ,!re 7 _m mo/ int]e/+ fragm5ts collect$ toge!r 9 & ar\nd a build+ ne>4 ,9 ! c\rt 0 a l>ge circul> c>v$ /one4 ,?is 0 call$ ,buddha's umbrella1 & its orig9al position 0 ov] ! head ( a l>ge figure ( ! sa9t1 sculptur$ 9 ! r\nd1 close by4 ,! design ( ! umbrella1 a lotus fl[]1 ! fl[] ( life1 ! petals radiat+ f ! c5tre1 & enclos+ ?is 7 a s]ies ( conc5tric r+s ( patt]n2 ! fir/ consi/$ ( rosettes1 or small] lotus fl[]s1 alt]nat+ ) grotesque lions1 w+$ horses1 elephants1 camels1 & bulls2 ! next %[$ ! an!mion1 d\bl$ or rev]s$1 alt]nat+ ) ! fylfot or gammadion 1 & ano!r =m frequ5t 9 e>ly ,greek patt]n 7z well z ,*9ese7 ! geometric f\r-petall$ fl[]4 ,!re 7 num]\s small figures ( ,buddha "h1 treat$ 9 a simil> way to ! "o fir/ m5tion$1 z well z o!r sculptures ( a ,h9du type1 resembl+ ^? at ,ellora4 ,!re we saw ! great ,tope 7call$ ! ,dhamek74 ,?is /ood on r high] gr\nd1 & 0 app>5tly built ( rubble1 :i* 0 expos$ at ! top1 b ! sides 7 cov]$ ) f9e b&s ( c>v$ ornam5t 9 /one1 c>ri$ to a consid]able height1 & consi/+ ( a frieze ( bold scroll "w ( a ,greek "*1 alt]nat+ ) b&s ( a k9d ( ,*9ese-l diagonal diap]1 divid$ by pla9 belts ( /one4 ,at int]vals ^! b&s 7 int]sect$ by flat dome-%ap$ =ms slightly project+ beyond ! b&s1 & 9 ^! 7 recesses int5d$1 no d\bt1 orig9ally to conta9 seat$ figures ( ,buddha4 ,^! flat dome-%ap$ =ms1 connect$ by b&s1 sugge/$ a palisade1 :i* may h be5 ! orig9al way ( enclos+ & protect+ ^! topes or tombs2 & !y may also h be5 ! e>ly =m or prototype ( ! curi\s clu/]$ dome-%ap$ p9nacles :i* are multipli$ to =m ! spires ( ,ja9 temples s (t5 se5 9 ,india4 ,s>na? is ! place :]e ,buddha began to prea*1 & ! great tope is suppos$ to m>k ! spot :]e 8 fir/ s]mon 0 deliv]$4 ,! excavations ( ,g5]al ,cunn+ham "h disclose ! fragm5ts ( a great city :i* probably /ood "h ab\t #bjjj ye>s ago4 ,return+ to ,b5>es f ?is int5sely int]e/+ spot1 we d9$ at ! ,gue/ ,h\se ) our ,am]ican fri5d4 ,! rooms 7 luxuri\sly uphol/]$ & furni%$ f ,europe1 & 7 occupi$ by ! ,pr9ce & ,pr9cess ( ,wales :5 !y 7 "h 9 #aije4 ,! d9n] 0 excell5tly cook$ & s]v$ by native att5dants1 ) ! *oice/ w9es & liquors4 ,!re 7 "s lovely old ,indian m9iatures on vellum fram$ & hang+ on ! wall ( "o ( ! salons1 repres5t+ v>i\s sc5es 9 ! life ( a ,mah>ajah--a cock-fight1 polo1 reception ( a =eign embassy 79 ,dut* sev5te5? c5tury co/ume71 & o!r subjects1 ea* full ( *>m+ details ( ar*itecture1 dress & decoration4 ,besides ^! !re 7 ! usual (ficial photographic gr\ps1 %[+ ,engli% (fic]s1 pr9ces1 & gov]nor-g5]als gr\p$ ar\nd ! ,mah>ajah--9 "o ! ,cz> ( ,russia appe>$4 ,indian c>pets 7 on ! floor1 & ,engli% sport+ pr9ts on ! walls ( ! d9+-room4 ,! next day1 ,janu>y #bcrd1 ,8 ,highness's secret>y _h arrang$ to s5d a c>riage = u q e>ly 7ab\t #g ,a4,m471 to take u to see ! ghats4 ,:5 we rea*$ ! riv] side1 :i* is a consid]able drive f ! ,gue/ ,h\se1 we f\nd a beautiful /ate b>ge await+ u4 ,x 0 %ap$ & pa9t$ l a peacock1 & _h a little pavilion 9 ! c5tre4 ,9 ?is lovely vessel we emb>k$1 & glid$ sl[ly d[n ! riv] ) ! /ream1 guid$ by ! sc>let-jacket$ o>sm51 ) _! long bamboo h&l$ o>s1 & a broad /e]+ paddle at ! /]n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,b5>es3 ,,view+ ,,! ,,ghats ,,f ,,! ,,mah>ajah',s ,,peacock ,,boat ,! spectacle ( ,b5>es f a boat on ! ,ganges is p]haps ! mo/ extraord9>y sight 9 all ,india4 ,at e ghat or op5+ to ! riv]1 d[n ! great flights ( /eps1 a ?rong ( natives 9 all ! col\rs ( ! ra9b[ press to ! wat]'s edge4 ,"s plunge 91 "s approa* timidly1 & v gradually subm]ge !mselves4 ,_! br[n sk9s %9+ 9 ! wat]4 ,! m5 always h "s sort ( wai/ clo? on1 b ! wom5 g 9 9 _! g>m5ts1 or1 at lea/1 clad to _! wai/s4 ,all ages are !re--x recall$ ! m$ival allegories ( ! ,f\nta9 ( ,y\?4 ,"o does n (t5 see infants dipp$1 ?\gh !y are1 occasionally1 by _! p>5ts1 & object to ! wat] 9 ! same natural & vigor\s mann] z ,european babies are apt to d at _! baptism4 ,old tott]+ wom5 & m5 may be se51 z well z ! "y1 /rong & vigor\s1 all e>ne/ly wa%+1 or p]=m+ /range g5uflexions ) ! mo/ det]m9$ devotion4 ,*>act]i/ic features ( ?is wond]ful sc5e are ! l>ge matt+ umbrellas ( ! prie/s1 :o sit on small plat=ms ( bamboo rais$ on ! /eps4 ,^! expect fees to be paid !m by ^? :o come to ba! at ! ghats4 ,r[s ( snake *>m]s greet ! travell] on l&+ at ! ghats1 :o turn hiss+ cobras out ( circul> boxes & hold !m al(t or tw9e !m r\nd _! necks1 or p]haps1 z an extra attraction1 empty out a sw>m ( scorpions to cat* ! eye ( ! /rang]1 all eag] to p]=m ! m>vels ( _! art on ! slighte/ enc\ragem5t--& a few rupees4 ,sacr$ zebu bulls w&] ab\t & (t5 lie on ! /eps4 ,x seems /range t p %\ld lave & dr9k ( ! wat]1 :i* is f\l$ "o w\ld suppose by all sorts ( impurities at ! m>g94 ,wa%+ ( clo!s goes on ev]y:]e1 decay$ fl[]s float along1 ev5 bodies ( dr[n$ dogs are se5 occasionally4 ,x mu/ h be5 at ,b5>es t sop's fable ( ! two pots 0 born1 = !re ! e>!n & braz5 vessels might q possibly float d[n ! /ream toge!r4 ,pots are sc\r$ on ! /eps1 & at ! ,burn+ ,ghat !y p\r ! a%es ( ! dead into ! riv]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,we ,,see ,,snakes ,,at ,,b5>es ,at ! ,burn+ ,ghat !y pile up logs ( wood to =m ! pyre1 & ! :ite turban$ d>k figures1 ) no?+ on b wai/ clo?s1 are kept busy at _! gha/ly "w4 ,"s ( ! bodies are br\ght d[n ) fl[]s & *ant+3 o!rs lie !re ) no foll[+ or c]emony3 "s are swa!d 9 r$ or :ite clo? l mummies1 o!rs z !y 7 born are lift$ on to ! piles ( logs1 :i* be+ set alight1 soon r$uce all to ! same condition4 ,"s ( ! bodies are c>efully dipp$ 9 ! ,ganges be=e be+ burn$1 & are (t5 left at ! wat]'s edge :ile ! pyre is be+ prep>$4 ,wood 0 plac$ ov] z well z "u ! bodies1 & a tor* 0 put to ! m\?4 ,o!r bodies1 aga91 are tak5 out 9 boats unburn$ & app>5tly dress$ & seat$ 9 *airs1 & sudd5ly 9 mid-/ream are toppl$ ov] into ! wat]4 ,we saw an old man dispos$ ( 9 ?is way4 ,our boatman po9t$ him out z a specially holy p]son1 & we did n realise he 0 a corpse4 ,! bodies ( infants1 swa!d 9 :ite1 are also treat$ 9 ?is way4 ,! ,mah>ajah's secret>y expla9$ t ! ,ganges wat] _h be5 analys$ by ,european exp]ts & pron\nc$ to be ! be/ wat] 9 ! _w1 hav+ a peculi> prop]ty ( de/roy+ ! g]ms ( disease4 ,x 0 difficult1 h[ev]1 to see h[ ev5 8! be/ wat]0 c\ld avoid gett+ f\l$ ) su* op]ations con/antly go+ on2 b ( c\rse !re is a /rong /ream all ! "t1 s t ev]y?+ mu/ ev5tually be c>ri$ d[n to ! sea4 ,a cont9u\s _m-col\r$ /ream ( pilgrims1 be>+ huge bundles ( b$d+1 7 con/antly mov+ along beh9d ?is busy life ( ! ba?+ ghats1 asc5d+ or desc5d+ ! great flights ( /eps lead+ up ?r\gh ! v>i\s gates to ! city4 ,x seem$ to be "p ( t univ]sal exodus we _h witness$ at e railway /ation 9 ,india4 ,x is said t repres5tatives f e village 9 ! p59sula may be f\nd at ,b5>es4 ,!n1 z a no less /rik+ backgr\nd to ^! extraord9>y human gr\ps1 rise ! domes ( temples & m9>ets ( palaces1 _! gold5 vanes & f9ials glitt]+ aga9/ ! deep blue sky4 ,w9d[s1 balconies & t]races plac$ high up1 ) va/ walls bel[ !m4 ,^! great walls1 :i* give s mu* di/9ction & bread? to ! riv] front ( ,b5>es1 h a practical reason1 inasmu* z x is a necessity ?us to raise ! temple & palace floors1 ow+ to ! sudd5 ris+ ( ! ,ganges 9 ! ra9y season1 :5 ^! walls are sometimes hidd5 9 ! wat]s4 ,! musical accompanim5ts ( ! spectacle consi/ 9 ! weird & w&]+ notes :i* issue f ! temples1 produc$ by a sort ( hautboy1 & ! subdu$ ?ud ( ! tom-toms4 ,i saw a dusky long-hair$ fakir /& on ! /eps at ! ,mahik>unika ghat & s\nd a long /raight brass trumpet4 ,aft] voyag+ 9 ! peacock boat ! :ole l5g? ( ! ghats1 we return$ to our c>riage-9-wait+ at a conv5i5t po9t f :i* to approa* ! ,gold5 ,temple4 ,f ! ma9 /reet ( ! ,baza> we 7 conduct$ by ! secret>y d[n a v n>r[ passage cr[d$ ) wor%ipp]s1 & !n up a d>k /aircase to a t]race f :i* we c\ld see ! clu/] ( gild$ copp] domes4 ,aft]w>ds 9 ! sacr$ prec9cts we saw ! 8well ( k10 b did n dr9k ( x1 hav+ too mu* =ekn[l$ge ( ! condition ( its wat]4 ,our next excursion 0 to pay a visit to ! ,mah>ajah at 8 palace4 ,we 7 conduct$ by 8 secret>y 9 ! c>riage z be=e1 driv+ to ! riv] side opposite ! palace "s six miles (f4 ,on ! road we /opp$ to see ! fam\s ,monkey ,temple--a ,h9du ,temple 9 an arcad$ c\rt ( ! usual type4 ,?is c\rt 0 full ( monkeys--a s&y-br[n col\r$ sort ) p9k faces1 probably ,macaques--n s h&some z ! wild silv] grey ones we _h se5 at ,ahm$abad4 ,!y accept$ (f]+s1 b n s gre$ily1 z !y 7 evid5tly well f$1 & dri$ peas lay ab\t unt\*$4 ,!y gamboll$ ab\t ! temple at _! sweet w4 ,^! monkeys are sacr$ to ,vi%nu1 & repres5t ,hunuman ! monkey god4 ,!re 0 a f9e tank ) /eps to ! wat]'s edge1 close by ! temple4 ,j be=e ?is we pass$ ! ,h9du ,college :i* ,mrs ,annie ,besant has e/abli%$ = ! high] education ( native *ildr5 ( bo? sexes--b n a mix$ s*ool4 ,?is "w has be5 lib]ally end[$ by ! ,mah>ajah ( ,b5>es1 :o also grant$ ! site4 ,mrs ,besant is ! pr9cipal1 b ow+ to ! illness ( ,colonel ,alcott1 %e 0 n !n !re1 be+ at ,madras nurs+ ! ,colonel 9 :at prov$ to be 8 la/ illness4 ,rea*+ ! riv] side1 a boat 0 9 wait+ to take u across to ! palace1 r[$ by two ,h9du boys--at lea/ !y />t$ r[+1 b soon we got into %all[s1 :]e !y took to pol+1 & f9ally _h to get out & pu% ! boat along1 until gett+ into deep] wat] aga9 !y r[$ u to ! palace /eps4 ,x 0 q a high /eep flight1 no d\bt exi/+ = ! same riv] reason z ! high walls ( ,b5>es--to be out ( ! rea* ( ! floods4 ,!re 7 numb]s ( natives asc5d+ & desc5d+ or gr\p$ on ! /eps4 ,we climb$ up1 & ent]$ ! palace up m /airs1 & 7 %[n into a l>ge reception salon1 :]e mu* ( ! furniture 0 8"u canvas10 b !re 0 "o h&some c\* display$1 inlaid ) ivory4 ,pres5tly ,h4,h4 ! ,mah>ajah ent]$1 accompani$ by 8 two *ief (fic]s1 :o spoke ,engli% well1 8 pa9t] 9 ord9>y1 & sev]al att5dants4 ,*airs 7 plac$ 9 ! c5tre ( ! room1 ar\nd a small m>ble table4 ,! ,mah>ajah seat$ himself1 & we ) ! private secret>y gr\p$ ourselves ab\t him4 ,! ,mah>ajah 0 dress$ 9 a small-patt]n$ long tunic ( p9k brocad$ ) gold1 a small r\nd cap on 8 head1 close fitt+ :ite tr\s]s & pat5t lea!r %oes4 ,he seem$ q m]ry & pleas$ to see u4 ,i %[$ him my book ( sket*es1 :i* int]e/$ him1 z he said he _h nev] se5 draw+s ( ! k9d be=e4 ,8 pa9t] 9 ord9>y1 to :om ,i 0 introduc$1 0 also int]e/$1 & ask$ "s que/ions ?r\gh ! secret>y1 n himself speak+ ,engli%4 ,he _h pa9t$ ! full l5g? portraits ( ! ,mah>ajahs :i* hung al(t 9 ?is salon4 ,! ,pr9ce pres5tly rose & invit$ u to ! t]race1 to :i* we pass$ aft] him1 ?r\gh an arcade1 an att5dant hold+ a l>ge silk umbrella ov] him4 ,!re 0 a v f9e view f ?is t]race up & d[n ! riv]4 ,! city ( ,b5>es1 ) its domes & m9>ets1 se5 f> d[n on ! left1 & ! op5 pla9 c\ntry opposite4 ,! secret>y said t :5 ! ,ganges rose ! city look$ z if x 0 float+ on ! surface ( ! wat]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,mah>ajah',s ,,reception1 ,,decorat+ ,,! ,,visitors ,we !n all return$ to ! salon 7or ,durb> ,hall1 z ,i ought to h call$ x7 & took our leave1 ,h4,h4 pres5t+ u ) a book ( photographs ( ! ghats1 ) 8 own portrait1 bo? ( :i* he inscrib$4 ,f9ally he plac$ necklaces ( "s k9d ( gold or gilt tissue ar\nd ! necks ( ! ladies1 & "o ( silv]-tissue ar\nd m9e1 & conclud$ by putt+ sc5t on our h&k]*iefs f a h&some silv] bottle4 ,be=e we left ! palace ! ,mah>ajah's jewels 7 %[n to u--wond]ful /r+s ( rubies & em]alds almo/ z big z h5's eggs4 ,^! 7 9 r worn & fad$ cases ( velvet1 & (f]$ up on ru/y old tea trays--a /range mixture ( spl5d\r & squalor4 ,! secret>y !n took u by c>riage to see a ,h9du ,temple1 cov]$ ) sculpture1 /&+ cle> on a rais$ plat=m asc5d$ by a flight ( /eps1 & surr\nd$ by ! usual op5 c\rt4 ,we saw sev]al f9e elephants wait+ at a gateway1 & aft]w>ds visit$ ! ,mah>ajah's pleasant fl[] g>d51 prettily laid out ) long c5tre tanks1 & rose trellises1 t]races1 & pavilions4 ,f "h we soon rea*$ ! riv] side1 & emb>k+ 9 ! boat aga91 return$ 9 ! same mann] we _h come1 return+ to our qu>t]s 9 ! dusk ( ! ev5+1 ! secret>y leav+ u at 8 dwell+ at ,b5>es4 ,! ,mah>ajah hav+ plac$ a boat & a c>riage at our disposal1 we arrang$ to visit ! ghats aga9 ! next day1 especially z ,i 0 anxi\s to obta9 a sket* or two ( ! wond]ful sc5es by ! riv]4 ,s driv+ to ! /eps aga9 we emb>k$1 tak+ ,moonsawmy ) u to int]pret4 ,i got ! boatm5 to /op ! boat (f ! ,manik>anika ,ghat1,b :i* is p]haps ! mo/ /rik+ ( all1 ) its r$ s&/one p9nacles1 imm5se flights ( /eps & t]races4 ,"h ,i work$ till noon1 :5 "o _h r ! s5sation ( ev]y?+ curl+ up ) ! heat ( ! sun1 includ+ "o's own frame6 ,! next morn+ we aga9 return$ to ! riv]1 us+ ! ,mah>ajah's c>riage & boat1 :i* latt] 0 n1 h[ev]1 ! beautiful peacock b>ge ( our fir/ morn+1 b a v sub/antial sort ( h\se-boat1 ) pl5ty ( space on ! upp] deck or flat ro( ( ! h\se1 & solid *airs to sit on4 ,?is "t ,i *ose ! ,nepal ,temple = my subject4 ,?is temple1 ) its pagoda-l ro( & %9+ gold5 f9ial1 _h a ,*9ese aspect4 ,! temple itself 0 ( a deep ri* ,indian r$1 & _h a t]race 9 front on ! top ( a high wall close to ! riv]1 on "o side be+ ! entrance to ! palace ) two m9>ets4 ,a mass ( d>k gre5 foliage p>tly %ad$ ! ,temple on ! left h& & add$ to ! *>m & ri*ness ( ! subject--! ?rong ( figures on ! /eps1 & ! boats rock+ on ! cle> gre5 wat]1 complet+ ! picture at ! riv]'s edge1 alive ) col\r & movem5t4 ,! procession ( pilgrims 9 an endless l9e1 & ! :ole human drama go+ on j z be=e1 & z x has be5 e day = ages4 ,b ,see frontispiece4 ,! moon 0 n[ aga9 bright at nights & x 0 mu* w>m]4 ,we he>d ! jackals aga9 z at ,udaipur4 ,we met two ,london fri5ds at ! hotel1 & made "s pleasant acqua9tances--a "y ,am]ican :o _h be5 travell+ 9 ,*9a & ,japan & ,java & 0 go+ on to ,europe2 also ?ree "y ,ox=d m51 connect$ ) ! ,ox=d ,mission1 ,i und]/ood--"o ( !m on 8 way to take up "s (ficial po/ 9 ,japan4 ,! roses at ,cl>k's ,hotel 7 v pr(use1 a beautiful silv] b[l ( ,b5>es "w full ( !m ea* day decorat$ our table4 ,x 0 extremely quiet except = ! almo/ cont9ual cry ( a bird ,i c\ld n "n1 b :i* at fir/ we ?\ght 0 a pea-f[l4 ,! note1 h[ev]1 0 n ho>se or grat+ b full & bell-l1 ?\gh v monoton\s1 consi/+ ( two notes4 ,we he>d ?is bird ev]y:]e s\? aft] ,b5>es4 ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,,calcutta--,,d>jeel+ ,) p>t+ complim5ts to ! ,mah>ajah1 :om ,i v5tur$ to pres5t1 & 8 (fic]s1 ) photographs ( "s ( my pictures1 we left ,b5>es = ,calcutta on ,janu>y #bf?1 dep>t+ by a mid-day tra91 belat$ z usual4 ,?is took u to ,mogul ,s]ai1 :]e we *ang$ into ! ,calcutta mail4 ,at ! /ation x 0 difficult to f9d a place = ! soles ( our feet1 z ! :ole ( ! plat=m 0 occupi$ by native infantry1 9 khaki1 :o 7 camp+ d[n ) _! arms pil$ & _! baggage ar\nd !m4 ,! ,calcutta mail 0 prec$$ by ! limit$ mail1 consi/+ *iefly ( po/-(fice vans1 b hav+ room = a few pass5g]s4 ,"o ( our fri5ds ( ! ,ox=d p>ty :o 7 go+ on by x v k9dly tri$ to get u places also1 b !re 0 no room left4 ,h[ev]1 ! o!r mail foll[$ v quickly1 9 :i* we f\nd pl5ty ( room1 our only fell[-travell] be+ an ,am]ican4 ,we _h1 be=e rea*+ ,mogul ,s]ai1 obta9$ a f>ewell glimpse ( ,b5>es z we cross$ ! iron bridge ov] ! ,ganges1 bel[ ! city1 & saw ! sl5d] m9>ets ( ! ,aurangz] ,mosque1 & ! smoke ( ! ,burn+ ,ghat4 ,! c\ntry = "s di/ance 0 ri*] & m fruitful ?an usual1 & well clad ) trees1 among :i* 7 _m f9e cocoa palms1 _! smoo?1 sl5d] /ems hav+ a /eely blue effect aga9/ ! deep gre5 foliage ( mangoes & acacias4 ,! sc5]y grew tam] aft]w>ds1 & g5]ally flat1 ) occasional mud-wall$ & ?at*-ro($ villages huddl$ toge!r4 ,aft] pass+ z bad a night z might be expect$ 9 ! tra91 we got into ,calcutta ab\t six 9 ! morn+ at ! ,h[rah /ation4 ,aft] "s difficulty 9 gett+ a tickorg>y--! ,indian equival5t = a 8f\r-:eel]0--we _h r a long drive to ! ,gr& ,hotel1 cross+ ! riv] by a bridge j outside ! /ation1 :]e !re 0 a ba?+ ghat1 gaily popul\s at t h\r1 ! ba?+ op]ations be+ foll[$ by breakfa/ on ! /eps or 9 ! pavilions on ! t]race beh9d4 ,! /reets ( ,calcutta look$ r d+y & neglect$4 ,! hotel 0 va/ b gloomy1 & ! prices high2 b a ba? & a re/ aft] ! long railway j\rney 7 v welcome1 & we 7 glad to get our lett]s4 ,we f\nd ! temp]ature mu* w>m]1 h[ev]1 & m l ,bombay4 ,! ,m9to ,fte--a sort ( baza> & milit>y t\rnam5t comb9$--absorb$ a great deal ( att5tion among ! resid5ts4 ,?is occupi$ a l>ge enclosure on ! ,esplanade1 "u canvas4 ,! famili> po/]s us$ = ! ,milit>y ,t\rnam5t 9 ,london met ! eye on all sides1 ) gay flutt]+ bunt+ /rung across ! /reets z x appe>$ ! ,amir 0 expect$ "h too1 ?\gh 8 visit 0 to be consid]$ 8private40 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,soo?say] ,,at ,,calcutta--7,,or ,,palmi/ry ,,"u ,,! ,,palms7 ,"o ( our introductions "h 0 to ,miss ,sorabji1 a ,p>see lady ( mu* influ5ce1 & a mo/ int]e/+ p]sonality1 well kn[n & belov$ by a l>ge circle ( ,engli% fri5ds4 ,%e _h a *>m+ h\se1 9 a g>d5 ( palms1 9 ,c>nac ,/reet4 ,we f\nd h] ent]ta9+ a p>ty ( fa%ionable ladies at aft]noon tea1 on a %ady lawn 9 front ( h] h\se4 ,9 ! mid/ ( ! gr\p1 squatt+ on ! grass1 0 a soo?say] & palmi/--a ,h9du 8wise man10 rob$ 9 :ite1 b )\t any turban4 ,he _h "s oblong-%ap$ pages out ( an anci5t book ( palmi/ry1 & "s curi\s phr5ological-look+ diagrams ly+ on ! grass 9 front ( him1 & ^! he appe>$ to be consult+ f "t to "t1 :ile ) great delib]ation he exam9$ ! h&s ( ! ladies1 :o gaz$ at him q anxi\sly1 z if he 7 really an inspir$ div9] ( _! lives4 ,?is man 0 suppos$ to be gift$ ) v special p[]s1 & seem$ to be tak5 q s]i\sly1 b z f> z we c\ld ga!r1 he 0 only m5tion+ ! usual range ( probable or n impossible ev5ts :i* might happ5 9 ! c\rse ( any life1 ?\gh1 no d\bt1 m or less adapt$ to ! circum/ances & "* ( ! lady be=e him1 z f> z he c\ld guess x1 & calculat$ to fit individual cases4 ,he c]ta9ly look$ wily & cunn+ en\gh = any?+1 z he mov$ 8 f+] my/]i\sly ov] ! *>ts1 or pret5d$ to c\nt or reckon some?+ :ile keep+ ! lady's left h& op5 be=e him4 ,a curi\s sc5e altoge!r1 ) ! aft]noon tea-table1 & ! ord9>y *att] go+ on4 ,!re 0 an ,indu/rial ,exhibition op5 on "s op5 gr\nd ne> a l>ge1 yell[-wa%$1 eighte5? c5tury /yle ( *ur*4 ,x comb9$ a swit*back railway1 & "s ( ! popul> attractions ( ,e>l's ,c\rt1 ) an int]e/+ %[ ( h&-weav+ 9 l95s1 silks1 & c>pets1 ) dye+1 pr9t+1 & o!r indu/ries1 ! exhibits be+ ^? ( societies or firms4 ,9 "s cases ! "w ( v>i\s s*ools ( ,art 7 %[n1 z t ( ! ,mah>ajah's1 at ,jaipur1 *iefly metal "w & enamell+4 ,among ! brass "w 7 to be se5 ! sph]ical brass roll+ lamps1 pi]c$ ) an all-ov] intricate floral design1 t left fairly ev5ly di/ribut$ ap]tures ?r\gh :i* ! rays ( light w\ld /rike :5 ! lamp 0 light$ )94 ,?is1 by an +5i\s piece ( me*anism1 always ma9ta9$ its level position1 ?\gh ! sph]e might be roll$ along ! gr\nd l a ball4 ,x c\ld be op5$ by h+es 9 two equal hemisph]ical halves4 ,^! lamps are us$ at fe/ivals 9 ! temples1 & h a beautiful effect4 ,calcutta is n impressive ar*itecturally1 c]ta9ly4 ,! mod]n build+s are ( ! usual comm]cial type z a rule4 ,gov]nm5t ,h\se has a c]ta9 /atel9ess ) its :ite column$ porticoes among ! palms & gre5]y ( o!r trees2 & ,c>nac ,/reet is a long wide /reet ( l>ge deta*$ resid5ces /&+ 9 ample g>d5s4 ,! ,esplanade is a wide op5 pla9 9 ! mid/ ( ! t[n1 ) "s gr\ps ( trees ^u x1 b r br[n & desolate1 ! turf be+ burn$ by ! sun4 ,! native qu>t]s are v squalid4 ,! baza>s & %ops 7 (t5 tumble-d[n tempor>y-look+ %$s & /ructures ( bamboo /icks & /raw1 old t9s be+ (t5 se5 ?r[n on to weight ! rott5 matt+ or ?at* :i* =m$ ! ro(s1 :i* 7 (t51 too1 pat*$ ) corrugat$ iron4 ,occasionally !re 0 a h\se-front :i* _h se5 bett] days--a =m] villa or mansion1 ) a column$ portico1 b n[ become a squalid t5em5t h\se4 ,^! 7 at lea/ "o's impressions on a v %ort visit2 b x 0 s oppressive t we 7 anxi\s to get away to ,d>jeel+1 & s took our dep>ture on ,janu>y #bh? by an aft]noon tra9 f ! ,iscaldah /ation4 ,= ab\t an h\r or s aft] leav+ ,calcutta1 ! tra9 runs ?r\gh beautiful groves ( palms & mangoes1 planta9s & bamboos1 int]sect$ by tanks ( wat]1 vegetable g>d5s1 & ?at*$ villages among ! trees4 ,lat] we cross$ ! great op5 pla9s ( ,b5gal1 cultivat$ & f]tile "u irrigation1 ) b few trees1 /ret*+ z f> z ! eye c\ld see "u ! full moon4 ,at ,s>a we *ang$1 hav+ to leave ! tra9 to cross ! riv] ,ganges4 ,! sc5e 0 a /range "o4 ,! wait+ /eam] ly+ ready1 _h to be approa*$ ov] ! wide %all[s by two long n>r[ gangways1 con/ruct$ out ( a few planks1 susp5d$ f bamboo /icks /uck upright 9 ! %all[ wat]1 ) lights at int]vals4 ,a troop ( ,european & ,am]ican travell]s w5d+ _! way f ! tra9 along "o ( ! gangways to ! :ite /eam]1 & a procession ( natives ) _! bundles cr[d+ along ! o!r to ! same vessel4 ,arriv$ on bo>d we f\nd a table spread ready on ! qu>t]-deck & we _h an excell5t d9n]--v sup]ior to ^? provid$ by mo/ ( ! hotels4 ,aft] ?is meal 0 ov] ! /eam] />t$ on its voyage across ! wide riv]1 hav+ a /rong electric se>*-light at ! b[s :i* ?rew a great %aft ( :ite light to ! opposite %ore1 along :i* x seem$ to travel z if f9d+ its way4 ,mo?s & fly+ insects flutt]+ into ! beam ( light fla%$ l sp>ks or fire-flies4 ,we f\nd ano!r tra9 wait+ = u at a /ation on ! o!r bank4 ,"h we got into sleep+ comp>tm5ts4 ,i _h an ,am]ican bi%op & 8 fri5d1 a "y man1 z travell+ companions4 ,ab\t #f ,a4,m4 ! next morn+ we rea*$ ! foot ( ! hills1 :]e ano!r *ange 0 necess>y & :]e breakfa/ 0 to be _h at ! /ation1 aft] :i* we pack$ ourselves & our belong+s into ! t9y c>riages ( ! little n>r[ gauge1 toy-l tra9 :i* makes ! asc5t ( #gjjj feet to ,d>jeel+4 ,/>t+ ab\t level1 ! asc5t 0 q gradual at fir/1 ! l9e w9d+ ?r\gh bamboo groves & tea plantations1 & z x gr[s /eep] ! track twi/s up 9 ,s curves & loops1 ?read+1 l a /eel snake1 ?r\gh umbrage\s woodl&s1 sometimes foll[+ ! road1 sometimes cross+ x4 ,among ! _m beautiful trees !re 0 "o ( frequ5t occurr5ce :i* 0 new to u4 ,x _h some?+ ! mann] ( gr[? ( an a%1 b hav+ a silv]y b>k l a bir*1 & clu/]s ( l>ge sc>let buds & fl[]s1 )\t leaves4 ,"s call$ x ! 8,=e/ ,flame40 ,_m ( ! trees 7 hung ) climb+ plants1 =m+ lovely tangles & fe/oons1 & ?r\gh ! op5+s 9 ! woods1 "h & !re1 we _h glimpses ( ! pla9s veil$ 9 ! morn+ haze4 ,high] & high] ! little tra9 c>ri$ u1 curv+ s %>ply1 sometimes1 t "o c\ld see ! little puff+ eng9e 9 front1 :i* _h almo/ ! effect1 :5 r\nd+ ! sudd5 curves & loops1 ( "s grotesque creature try+ to cat* its own tail1 l a playful kitt5 or puppy6 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,d>jeel+ ,,toy-,,railway ,,try+ ,,to ,,cat* ,,its ,,own ,,tail6 ,at int]vals ! v>i\s attitudes atta9$ 7 pa9t$ on tablets at ! side ( ! rail1 or at ! little /ations4 ,at ,siliguri a halt 0 made = tiff94 ,"h ! ,mongolian & ,bhutian peasants came up to ! railway c>riages & (f]$ u int]e/+ ?+s 9 ! way ( silv] r+s1 & silv] ornam5ts set ) turquoise1 & l>ge turquoise e>r+s ( a f9e bold design4 ,! wom5 all wore relic or *>m-boxes ) lids work$ 9 delicate filigree & set ) turquoise1 & ^! 7 susp5d$ by bead necklaces4 ,silv] *atela9es & o!r *>m+ ornam5ts 7 %[n u1 ! wom5 c>ry+ ! /ock-9-trade ( jewell]y ^u _! p]sons4 ,! high *eekbones & n>r[ eyes1 black hair & long pig-tails ( ! ,mongolian 7 v m>k$1 ! m5 hav+ q a ,*9ese look1 ) _! s(t felt1 turn$-up inv]t$ cup-&-sauc]-%ap$ hats & pig-tails4 ,! wom5 _h broad1 smil+ faces1 ! effect ( :i* 0 height5$ by a k9d ( bright br[n v>ni% :i* made _! faces look z if !y _h be5 ,fr5* poli%$--p]haps to suit somebody's furniture8--_! hair 0 int5sely black1 & !y wore two long plaits or pig-tails4 ,! huts ( ! villages 7 ( wood1 & ! orig9al native ro(+ 0 ( ?9 wood5 %+les1 :i* h>monis$ p]fectly ) ! sc5]y2 b un=tunately corrugat$ iron 0 be+ ext5sively sub/itut$ = ro(+ purposes1 & ! old ?at* or wood5 %+les 7 frequ5tly pat*$ ) x4 ,at ,d>jeel+ x 0 almo/ univ]sal1 & 9 consequ5ce ! build+s might be describ$ z t9 & tempor>y4 ,"h & !re 0 a fanta/ic1 b g5]ally n ta/eful1 t\* ( ,g]many1 or ! ,swiss bord]1 9 ! mod]n villa4 ,little toy-l dwell+s are scatt]$ along ! m\nta9-sides 9 an accid5tal sort ( way1 z if !y _h be5 upset out ( a box1 & _h /uck "h & !re among ! trees 9 _! fall4 ,engli% suburban names cat* ! eye--at ,d>jeel+--su* z 8,daisy ,bank0 & 8,rose ,cottage40 ,! ,europeans come out f ,calcutta 9 ! hot season to dwell "h4 ,! huts ( ! native p look v frail1 almo/ l c>d-h\ses1 lean+ up aga9/ ea* o!r on ! edges ( cliffs1 _! ro(s ( ragg$ matt+1 /raw ?at*1 or ?9 wood5 %+les1 or ! corrugat$ iron a=esaid4 ,tall1 tap]+ bamboo canes are frequ5tly /uck up outside1 be>+ v]tical /rips ( :ite cotton or l95 clo?1 l /&>ds1 ) light tags ( ! same flutt]+ at int]vals f _! out] edges4 ,^! are said to repres5t pray]s1 & are suppos$ to w>d (f evil influ5ces4 ,we put up at 8,woodl&s0 hotel1 :i* has a pretty walk up f ! /ation1 l9$ ) f9e old trees ( ! p9e k9d1 v ?ick & d>k1 & hav+ a sl5d] cone-l =m1 rem9d+ "o ( cypresses4 ,^! ab\nd all d[n ! m\nta9-sides1 b are n[ 9 dang] ( be+ ?9n$ too freely4 ,! m\nta9-sides are int]sect$ ) pa?s1 & t]rac$ bridle roads1 along :i* are p]*$ ! dwell+s1 above or bel[ ! road4 ,z "o rides up "o c look almo/ p]p5dicul>ly d[n ^u ! t9 ro(s & into ! little g>d5s1 z ^! pa?s almo/ d\ble back on !mselves at diff]5t heights1 z !y w9d up ! hills4 ,! manag] & proprietor ( 8,woodl&s0 0 an ,italian by bir?1 b he spoke ,engli% l a native4 ,he 0 "o ( an exp$ition :i* attempt$ to climb ! ,k9*9 ,junga 7#ah1jjj feet71 a great sn[ peak ( ! ,himalayas1 :i* is conspicu\s f ,d>jeel+ :5 ! cl\ds disclose ! view ( ! wond]ful sn[-clad range4 ,illu/ration3 ,,*>act]s ,,9 ,a ,,tibetan ,,masque1 ,,d>jeel+ ,he occasionally ent]ta9$ 8 gue/s by a lecture 9 ! ev5+s1 illu/rat$ by photographic slides tak5 on ! exp$ition 79 #aije7 9 :i*1 h[ev]1 f\r ( ! p>ty lo/ _! lives by los+ _! foot+ on a sn[ precipice4 ,climb+ 9 ! ,himalayas seems to be h&icapp$ by ! necessity ( tak+ coolies to c>ry provisions & camp furniture1 z ! explor] leaves ! human _w entirely beh9d him 9 ent]+ ^! trackless sn[-b\nd solitudes4 ,"o ev5+1 j be=e daylight _h q fad$1 we witness$ a v curi\s & rem>kable p]=mance 9 ! c\rty>d ( ! hotel1 light$ by a few lant]ns1 :i*1 h[ev]1 r increas$ ! my/]y ( ! half-light ?an really add$ to ! illum9ation ( ! sc5e4 ,x 0 a ,tibetan dance or masque4 ,to ! s\nd ( tom-toms1 :i* m>k$ ! "t1 a danc] 9 loose :ite g>m5ts appe>$--a man2 he wore a :ite tunic ) a full skirt1 & held a sort ( :ite veil up ov] 8 head z he mov$1 & he appe>$ to h on ,mongolian legg+s & boots4 ,he danc$ l a d]vi%1 :irl+ rapidly r\nd & r\nd1 8 skirts =m+ a sort ( spiral :eel ( drap]y ab\t him z he mov$4 ,?is danc] hav+ f9i%$ 8 pas de seul1 z a k9d ( prelude1 retir$1 & 0 imm$iately succe$$ by ano!r--a fanta/ic-look+ figure also 9 :ite1 ) ! ,tibetan conical turban1 ! details ( ^: co/ume ,i c\ld n q make out1 ow+ to ! fitful light1 b he appe>$ 9 ! *>act]i/ic loose tunic & legg+s & ! ,*9ese-l %oes4 ,8 /yle ( danc+ 0 q diff]5t to ! d]vi%1 & might be describ$ z a comb9ation ( ! jig & ! reel4 ,:ile he 0 danc+ !re ent]$ two v grotesque ,*9ese-look+ lions1 que] mon/]s1 made up ( two p :o furni%$ ! f\r legs--probably a man = ! =e-qu>t]s & a boy = ! h9dmo/4 ,_! heads or masks seem$ to be ea* =m$ ( half a tortoise %ell1 +5i\sly en\gh ! op5+s at ! side ( ! %ell be+ utilis$ z ! sockets ( l>ge fi]ce />+ eyes1 a l>ge op5 r$ m\?1 & gleam+ r[s ( po9t$ :ite tee?1 complet+ a t]rific c\nt5ance4 ,yell[ drap]y conceal$ all b ! feet1 :i* 7 clad 9 "s k9d ( tawny s(t lea!r4 ,^! lions 7 extremely lively1 & frisk$ ab\t1 & la%$ _! tails 9 a mo/ spirit$ way1 keep+ "t ) ! tom-toms ?r\gh all _! wild movem5ts2 z1 toge!r ) ! second danc]1 :o 01 x appe>$1 ! lion-tam]1 !y w5t ?r\gh a v active & en]getic dance4 ,?is ov]1 ea* lion lay d[n1 "o on "o side ( ! gr\nd 7!re be+ no /age71 & "o on ! o!r1 fac+ ! audi5ce z !y c\*$4 ,!n ent]$ a sort ( knight1 or w>rior1 on a r$ hobby-horse1 & ! dance 0 cont9u$ by 8 *as+ ! lion-tam] r\nd & r\nd1 ! latt] always elud+ 8 pursu]1 & always emphatically repeat+ by ! action ( 8 arms ! beat ( ! tom-toms 9 a defiant sort ( way4 ,six m hobby-hors$ rid]s 9 diff]5t co/umes & col\rs next came 91 "o aft] ! o!r1 & jo9$ 9 ! pursuit ( ! lion-tam]4 ,pres5tly1 h[ev]1 !y *ang$ ! figure1 ! r$ hobby-horse rema9+ /ation>y1 :ile ! o!r six =m$ a sort ( quadrille1 advanc+ & retir+1 & cross+ ov]1 z 9 ! op5+ figure ( 8! ,lanc]s40 ,i =get exactly h[ ! lion-tam] employ$ himself :ile ?is proce$$1 b ,i ?9k he mu/ h tempor>ily subsid$1 :ile ! hobby-horses kept ! att5tion ( ! audi5ce4 ,f9ally !y all jo9$ h&s & danc$ 9 a r+1 rais+ a curi\s k9d ( *ant ! :ile1 aft] :i* ! hobby-horses all m>*$ out 9 s+le file1 /ill *ant+4 ,!n a peacock 7) a skirt7 came 91 mov+ 9 a sl[1 measur$ & /ately fa%ion1 danc+ & b[+ 9 a qua9t mann]1 flapp+ its w+s occasionally2 next x approa*$ "o ( ! c\*ant lions1 :o all ?is :ile _h rema9$ passive1 & app>5tly sleep+1 & gave x a sudd5 & decisive peck1 ! action be+ in/antly emphasis$ by ! tom-toms4 ,aft] m g5uflexions ! peacock f9i%$ 8 dance by giv+ a simil> peck to ! o!r lion1 ea* lion at ! t\* />t+ viol5tly & la%+ _! tails4 ,!n exit ! peacock4 ,next appe>$1 crawl+ 9 ) a sort ( wobble1 a turtle1 also we>+ a skirt :i* conceal$ its feet4 ,at its entry ! lion-tam] exhibit$ all ! symptoms ( comic fe>1 try+ to hide himself f ! turtle1 & f9ally z x approa*$ ne>]1 he ?rew himself on ! gr\nd & wriggl$ & wri!d ab\t 9 an access ( ridicul\s t]ror4 ,pres5tly1 h[ev]1 :atev] _h animat$ ! int]ior ( ! turtle x vani%$ unp]ceiv$1 & ! %ell lay motionless on ! gr\nd4 ,! lion-tam] approa*+ x appreh5sively1 b ev5tually tak+ up ! %ell1 he danc$ up to ! lions1 :o sprang to _! feet1 & !n all ^! :irl$ ab\t 9 a wild tempe/u\s dance to d\ble quick "t1 until ! lions1 app>5tly exhau/$1 bo? lay d[n aga9 9 ! same ord] z be=e4 ,aga9 ! troops ( hobby-horses ent]$1 & aft] ano!r sp9 ) ! lion-tam]1 all m>*$ out1 *ant+1 ! beat ( ! tom-toms gradually gr[+ fa9t] till !y ceas$ z ! company disappe>$4 ,we _h n yet be5 fav\r$ ) a glimpse ( ! great sn[ peaks4 ,k9*9 ,junga seem$ extremely %y1 & rema9$ wrapp$ 9 imp5etrable folds ( cl\d :i* roll$ ov] ! edges ( ! n>r[ hills1 or /eam$ up f ! deep valleys1 enact+ ! con/ant-incon/ant drama ( cl\d & m\nta91 always a mo/ fasc9at+ spectacle4 ,on ,janu>y #cj?1 h[ev]1 9 ! morn+1 betwe5 sev5 & eight1 we 7 at la/ rew>d$ by a beautiful glimpse ( ! sn[ peaks ( ! ,himalayas1 dom9at$ by t ( ,k9*9 ,junga1 cle> 9 ! gold5 light ( e>ly morn+1 pi]c+ ! turquoise sky1 l ! vision ( "s cele/ial city float+ on a sea ( roseate cl\d4 ,! unusual height ( ! peaks 9 ! sky surpris$ ! eye1 accu/om$ to see cl\ds :]e n[ 7 ^! va/ m\nta9s4 ,! delicate modell+ ( ! sn[ summits cle> & %>p 9 ! sunlight _h ! effect ( mak+ !m look mu* ne>] ?an ! int]v5+ valleys & d>k p9e cov]$ slopes lo/ 9 mi/ & deep %ad[1 & x 0 /range to ?9k t "o gaz$ at ^! sn[ peaks across a di/ance ( ab\t #de miles4 ,illu/ration3 ,,k9*9 ,,junga ,,f ,,d>jeel+ ,human dwell+s & /ructures look$ flimsy & trifl+1 no m ?an ! "w ( ants or spid]s1 comp>atively speak+1 b inde$ ,d>jeel+ has no ar*itecture to boa/ (4 ,= a region subject to e>?quakes great all[ances mu/ necess>ily be made1 b ! corrugat$ iron /yle c]ta9ly fail$ to ass]t ! dignity ( man 9 su* a l&scape1 & ! native hut did n look m p]man5t or sub/antial ?an a bird's ne/4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,%y ,,peak ,,( ,,k9*9 ,,junga ,! little t[n has a c5tral squ>e :]e !re is a native m>ket4 ,little l[ baza>s l9e ! sides1 & ! /reets1 b 9 ! c5tre ! v5dors spread out _! /ock-9-trade on ! b>e gr\nd4 ,!re may be se5 turquoises 9 great quantity1 & unset /ones ( _m k9ds1 & an inf9itude ( silv] r+s & ornam5ts4 ,! be/1 h[ev]1 7 always (f]$ by ! c\ntry p & ! coolies1 & ! ,bhutian wom51 :o always seem$ able to produce any numb]1 & we 7 foll[$ by q a little cr[d hold+ out r+s & silv] ornam5ts to tempt u1 :5 we w5t ?r\gh ! m>ket4 ,my wife discov]$ a pair ( gre5 pigeons 9 a *>act]i/ic ,indian dom$-cage made ( canes1 hang+ outside "o ( ! native huts1 & s5t our be>] to negotiate ! pur*ase1 & = six rupees !y *ang$ h&s4 ,! birds travell$ ) u to ,ceylon1 & on ! /eam] homew>ds till we met ! cold wea!r 9 ! ,m$it]ranean1 :5 ! h5 bird di$1 ! cock surviv+ until we rea*$ ,italy4 ,!y _h to be f$ ^u a sort ( meal made f a k9d ( p[d]$ dri$ peas1 n always easily obta9able4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,ride ,,at ,,d>jeel+3 8,,up ,,hill ,,sp>e ,,me0 ,!re 7 _m int]e/+ walks & rides at ,d>jeel+4 ,a fav\rite excursion 0 to ,tig] ,hill1 a di/ance ( six miles1 f :]e ,m\nt ,ev]e/1 ! highe/ m\nta9 ( ! _w1 c be se5--9 f9e cle> wea!r1 & sunrise is ! usual "t = x4 ,! modes ( progression are by j9-rick%aws or ponies4 ,!re are excell5t ponies to be _h at ,woodl&s1 & we enjoy$ ! /eepe/ ride we _h ev] exp]i5c$4 ,! pig-tail$ ,mongolian coolies are always on h& 9 ! c\rty>d ( ! hotel1 wait+ = cu/om 9 ei!r mode ( transport4 ,palanqu9s are also us$4 ,we met "h "s ,engli% fri5ds & fell[-travell]s4 ,x 0 pleasant to fall 9 ) my old ,bo/onian fri5d1 ,mr ,l\is ,prang1 :o1 ) ,mrs ,prang1 7 travell+ ) a p>ty ( "s twelve ,bo/onians4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,hail/one ,,*orus--,,dep>ture ,,f ,,d>jeel+ ,! al>m+ acc\nts ( ! preval5ce ( smallpox at ,bhutia det]r$ u f go+ to see ! ,buddhi/ temple at ,bhutia ,bu/i1 ?\gh ! imm$iate cause 0 a ?und]-/orm1 :i* came on j z ! rick%aws _h be5 ord]$1 & /opp$ our excursion2 & be+ advis$ to ab&on ! project = ! reason above giv5 we made no second attempt4 ,be=e leav+ ,d>jeel+ we 7 fav\r$ by ano!r cle> vision ( ! sn[ peaks & ,k9*9 ,junga 9 all 8 glory1 be=e breakfa/1 & ,i 0 glad to h be5 able to secure two draw+s z a record ( t wond]ful view4 ,we dep>t$ on ! fir/ ( ,febru>y 9 a hail-/orm1 walk+ d[n to ! /ation 9 a pelt+ %[] ( enorm\s /ones1 :i* rattl$ ar\nd u ) a ?und] & lightn+ accompanim5t4 ,! hail-/ones are s l>ge sometimes 9 t di/rict1 & ! /orms s viol5t1 t mu* damage is done4 ,at ,woodl&s all ! glass w9d[s "h on "o occasion 7 brok51 we he>d2 & also t ! /ones 7 kn[n to h be5 occasionally l>ge en\gh to kill de]6 ,we 7 soon on our way1 joggl+ d[n to ! pla9s aga9 9 ! squeezy little tra91 ! hail turn+ to ra9 l[] d[n1 & we 7 sometimes wrapp$ 9 cl\d4 ,z we got /ill l[]1 h[ev]1 ! sky t[>ds ! nor?-we/ began to cle>1 & !re 0 a /rik+ effect z ( a great curta9 be+ lift$ up1 %[+ ! bright sky beyond & ! sun %9+ on ! pla9s4 ,soon we pass$ into 8 light aga91 & enjoy$ cle> wea!r to 8 sett+4 ,rev]s+ 9 ! c\rse ( our j\rney ! *anges1 we proce$$ to ,s>a aga91 recross+ ! ,ganges1 ! se>*-light produc+ /rik+ effects z x w&]$ ov] ! %ore & ! vessels1 pick+ out its tw9 :ite /eam] ) />tl+ di/9ctness4 ,we _h ! morn+ light ov] ! fruitful pla9s ( ,b5gal1 9 :i* ! sc>let fl[]+ trees or 8=e/ flame0 be=e spok5 ( look$ m wond]ful ?an ev]4 ,! ?at*$ huts ( ! native villages 7 int]e/+ 9 %ape1 & diff]$ f any o!r local v>iety we _h se54 ,!y 7 built ( bamboo1 ) curv+ ro( ridges4 ,gr\ps ( ^! huts 7 ( frequ5t occurr5ce2 !y /ood on rais$ plat=ms1 int]sp]s$ ) planta9s1 or date or cocoa palms1 ! w9d[ op5+s on ! inw>d side only1 & "u ! deep ov]hang+ eaves4 ,,*apt] ,,xiv ,,madras ,,& ,,! ,,s\? ,avail+ ourselves ( ! k9d hospitality ( our fri5d 9 ,c>nac ,/reet1 we repos$ dur+ ! day int5d+ to leave ,calcutta aga9 by ! night tra9 7,madras ,mail7 = ,madras1 our next de/9ation4 ,?is 0 a consid]able j\rney z a glance at ! map w %[2 9 fact x 0 our longe/ 9 ,india1 occupy+ two nights & two days4 ,aft] "s anxi\s mom5ts 9 ,c>nac ,/reet1 ?r\gh our tickorg>y n turn+ up = u at ! "t ord]$1 or ?r\gh "s muddl+ on ! "p ( our be>]1 we ev5tually got convey$ to ,h[rah ,/ation4 ,luckily ! tra9 did n />t s soon z /at$--x nev] does 9 ,india--& we 7 sav$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,calcutta ,,to ,,madras--,,section ,,( ,,sleep]--,,or ,,some?+ ,,l ,,x ,! tra9 prov$1 h[ev]1 to be v cr[d$1 & we c\ld only secure a b]? ea* 9 sep>ate comp>tm5ts1 ?\gh !re 0 a small slid+ door betwe5 ! ladies' & ! g5tlem5's sleep+ comp>tm5t1 ?r\gh :i* communication c\ld be made4 ,f\r ladies1 a baby1 & a p>rot1 & ! gre5 pigeons made up ! complem5t 9 ! ladies' "p4 ,i _h two travell+ companions only1 a riv]-/eam] capta9 or eng9e] on sick leave1 go+ s\? ) 8 family1 & an ,engli% (fic] ( ! ,army ,m$ical ,s]vice go+ to "s hill /ation beyond ,madras4 ,! =m] kept himself go+ ) :iskey & soda1 ( :i* he freely invit$ 8 fell[ travell]s to p>take4 ,! latt] prov$ to be ,capt4 ,j4 ,b4 ,dalzell ,hunt] ( ! #fd? pione]s4 ,he 0 /udy+ ,p]sian1 & introduc$ me to a mo/ int]e/+ book1 ! 8,,iqd-,i-,,gul10 or 8,! ,rose ,necklace10 be+ selections f ! ,guli/an & auwr-i-suhaite translat$ into lit]al ,engli% ) notes by ,adlat ,khan4 ,?is 0 full ( delightful /ories1 & ri* ) ori5tal imag]y & wisdom4 ,leav+ ,calcutta 9 ! d>kness ( night1 ( c\rse no?+ c\ld be se5 ( ! c\ntry till next morn+ :5 we 7 approa*+ ,cuttack1 :5 we took 8,*ota ,hazri0--or e>ly light breakfa/4 ,a little s\? ( ?is hills appe>$ inl& rem9d+ "o 9 "* & app>5t height ( our lake c\ntry4 ,we pass$ ,poori1 ! junction = ,jugg]na?1 :]e cr[ds ( pilgrims g1 especially at ! "t ( ! great fe/ival ( ,kri%na 9 ,m>*1 :5 ! image ( ! god is borne ?r\gh ! t[n on ! fam\s c>1 out to a temple 9 ! c\ntry4 ,! old /ory we 7 told 9 *ildhood ( ! dreadful hea!n cu/om ( ! natives on su* occasions ?r[+ !mselves "u ! :eels ( ! c> ( ,jugg]na? has be5 discr$it$4 ,kri%na1 be+ a god ( love & life1 n a de/roy]1 w\ld n be pleas$ ) human sacrifices1 & !y w\ld be q inappropriate4 ,x might be possible1 h[ev]1 t ! c>1 drawn z x is by m5 ) great cables1 ?r\gh ! press ( pilgrims1 might accid5tally cru% "s "o fall5 9 ! cr[d1 & ,european mission>ies may h misund]/ood :at _h really happ5$1 & _h misrepres5t$ & exagg]at$ x4 ,!re 7 _m new & diff]5t types ( natives at ! /ations4 ,we 7 n[ on ! ,b5gal-,nagpur ,railway1 & ! native cr[ds1 & gr\ps ent]+ or leav+ ! tra9 all d[n ! l9e1 7 mo/ int]e/+ 9 "* & col\r4 ,pilgrims f ,jugg]naut be>+ small canes back ) !m z signs ( _! pilgrimage1 ,brahmans ) r$ m>ks l seals on _! =eheads1 & o!rs ) ! triple prong$ =k-l m>k ( ,siva 9 :ite & r$4 ,! m5 wore _! hair long l wom51 sometimes done up 9 ample knots at ! back ( ! head1 & sometimes hang+ d[n ! back4 ,all wore a sort ( tight cotton skirt or piece ( drap]y *equ]$ or patt]n$ 9 col\r wrapp$ r\nd ! lo9s1 & dep5d+ f ! wai/ to ! feet2 a :ite loose jacket frequ5tly surm\nt$ ?is1 s t judg+ only f ! back view1 ! /rang] ) ,european prepossessions z to dress di/9ctions betwe5 ! sexes1 might h "s difficulty 9 say+ :i* 0 :i*1 or :o 0 :o1 especially z ! native wom5 frequ5tly wore simil> skirts1 :ite bodices1 & _! hair 9 knots4 ,x 0 *iefly ! be>ds t betray$ ! g5tlem52 o!rwise ! equality ( ! sexes 0 fairly well e/abli%$1 z to outw>d appe>ance at lea/1 9 ! way t might a/oni% "s ( our ,we/]n re=m]s4 ,x is true "s ( ! m51 l ! anci5t ,egyptians1 wore no?+ above ! skirt1 except p]haps a :ite sc>f on ! %\ld]s1 & ! field-work]s & coolies all d[n ! ,corom&el coa/ wore no?+ b :ite turbans & wai/ clo?s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,ladies ,,or ,,g5tlem58 7,,fa%ions ,,9 ,,s\!rn ,,india7 ,we pass$ ! ,silv] ,lake1 really an inlet ( ! sea ne>ly surr\nd$ by hills1 ! tra9 />tl+ l>ge flocks ( br[n geese f ! m>g9 z x pass$4 ,our old fri5ds ! :ite cranes we saw aga9 l[] d[n ! l9e among ! m>%y pools4 ,paddy fields 9 v>i\s /ages1 (t5 "u wat]1 irrigation wells drawn by ox51 z well z ano!r patt]n--l ! ,hung>ian or ,egyptian1 a walk+ beam weight$ at "o end1 ! o!r hav+ a rope atta*$ to ! bucket4 ,! ,s\!rn ,indian ones are1 h[ev]1 work$ by ! natives1 g5]ally two1 work+ up & d[n f ! c5tre1 f :i* ! beam sw+s1 mak+ x dip & rise aga9 ) bucket1 ! m5 /eady+ !mselves by upright bamboos fix$ ea* side1 sometimes *ant+ a song to m>k ! "t & enable !m to move toge!r4 ,groves ( palms 7 pass$ & pyramidal hills1 br++ ! same sugge/ion ( ,egypt we _h _h be=e1 on ! way to ,*itorg>h4 ,!re 0 no d\bt ab\t gett+ fur!r s\? z ! temp]ature 0 mu* high]1 ! !rmomet] regi/]+ #ge to #hj & ?is 0 ,febru>y #d1 :]eas only two days be=e we _h be5 %iv]+ ov] a fire at ,d>jeel+6 ,9 ! burn+ sun we c\ld see ! d>k figures 9 :ite turbans & wai/ clo?s1 coolies on ! railway l9e1 & pl\ghm5 9 ! fields toil+ 9 ! heat4 ,we /opp$ = breakfa/ at ,b]hampore4 ,9 ! di/rict f "h to ,vizianagram !re 0 =m]ly a fl\ri%+ silk weav+ indu/ry among ! natives4 8,all gone n[10 said a bright-look+ ,european (ficial 9 :ite drill & topi :o ent]$ our comp>tm5t4 ,f :at he told u fur!r1 x seems t ?is indu/ry decl9$ = v obvi\s causes--because ! raw silk1 ! v mat]ial ^u :i* x subsi/$1 0 export$ & consequ5tly ! occupation ( ! native h&-loom weav]s 0 gone4 ,at ,waltair1 "o pass5g] left1 b our comp>tm5t 0 kept full z ano!r imm$iately succe$$ him & all f\r b]?s 7 occupi$ on ! second night4 ,"o got m or less brok5 sleep1 b p]haps m ?an might be expect$4 ,at ,bapatia next morn+ !re 0 *ota hazri1 or e>ly tea1 ready1 & x 0 v welcome4 ,at ,bitragunta !re 0 a halt = breakfa/4 ,z we approa*$ ,madras1 late 9 ! aft]noon1 we came by lovely groves ( palms1 q d>k ?ick =e/s ( !m1 ) pools ( wat] among !m 9 :i* wat] lilies bloom$4 ,gre5 p>roquets decorat$ ! telegraph wires1 sitt+ 9 r[s mu* z ! swall[s d 9 ,engl& 9 ! autumn4 ,! telegraph wires all ov] ,india are h[ev] a fav\rite re/+ p]* ) a v>iety ( birds1 & quick an obs]v] may get a good notion ( ! v>iety ( species 9 ,indian ,orni?ology by notic+ ! _m k9ds ( birds :i* may be se5 9 su* positions1 cle>ly silh\ett$ aga9/ ! sky4 ,we arriv$ at ! ,bea* ,/ation1 ,madras1 ab\t five o'clock on ,febru>y #d1 reliev$ to h rea*$ ! end ( our long j\rney4 ,hotel t\ts "h may be describ$ z active & /rong on ! w+4 ,we ev5tually squeez$ ourselves into a tickag>y ) our light baggage1 & 9 spite ( ! pres5ce ( ,moonsawmy--or p]haps 9 colusion ) him--an (fici\s native guide m\nt$ ! box & (f]$ u in=mation z to ! public build+s we pass$ on ! way to ! hotel4 ,! ,pr9ce ( ,wales's 0 full1 b ! proprietor advis$ u ( ano!r n f> (f1 kn[n z ! ,ca/le1 :i* _h =m]ly be5 ! pavilion or palace ( a native pr9ce1 & 0 a l>ge two-/ori$ yell[ wa%$ build+ ) colonnades on ! gr\nd floor1 & ext5sive t]races on to :i* ! rooms op5$ out1 on ! fir/ floor4 ,^! t]races 7 protect$ by a p>apet :i* took ! =m ( l[ battlem5ts1 :5ce possibly ! hotel d]iv$ its "n4 ,!re 0 a pleasant g>d5 %ad$ by trees ar\nd ! build+1 wall$ 9 f ! road1 & hav+ entrance gates4 ,"h we f\nd agreeable rooms & pl5ty ( space1 )\t oppressive luxury or com=t1 & z cool z might be expect$1 if x is ev] cool any:]e 9 ,madras8 ,! hotel 0 "u ,engli% managem5t1 & photographs ( famili> places at ,torquay & on ! ,corni% coa/ hung 9 our salon4 ,mosquito curta9s told _! usual tale1 be+ g5]ally a necessity 9 ,india1 b are m p>ticul>ly s at ,madras4 ,on ! drive f ! /ation we pass$ ,=t ,/ ,george :i* dates f #afhj1 & is ! only build+ ( any hi/oric int]e/4 ,!re 7 big ,law ,c\rts 9 a pret5ti\s ,italian ,go?ic /yle aft] ! mann] ( mod]n ,bombay ar*itecture4 ,! ,briti% trad]s & _! /ores & po/]s 7 9 evid5ce1 & 8summ] sales0 go+ /rong at ! drap]s1 attract+ sm>tly dress$ ,engli% ladies 9 _! motors & dog-c>ts4 ,! /reets 7 broad1 & !re 0 pl5ty ( space ev]y:]e4 ,! hotels & bungal[s 7 surr\nd$ by l>ge g>d5s1 & abundant trees--palms be+ v pl5tiful4 ,x 0 pleasant to he> ! cle> notes ( birds 9 ! e>ly morn+1 & ( c\rse we _h ! usual kite & cr[ *orus4 ,9 ! ev5+ !re 0 a *ildr5's p>ty go+ on at a pavilion 9 ! g>d51 & popul> ,european waltz tunes came f a piano4 ,! temp]ature 9 our rooms rang$ f #ge to #hj & we felt any?+ b en]getic4 ,we _h1 moreov]1 9 ! aft]noon an int]e/+ drive out to ! ,ady> ,libr>y1 ! headqu>t]s ( ! ,!osophical ,society built by ,colonel ,alcott :o 0 n[ ly+ ill !re4 ,hav+ _h a telegram f ,mrs ,annie ,besant 9 ! morn+1 a visit 0 arrang$4 ,%e c\ld n leave ! ,colonel1 z he 0 !n 9 a dy+ /ate4 ,our road lay betwe5 beautiful groves ( palms ( v>i\s k9ds1 mo/ly cocoa palms1 & native villages1 ! huts ( "o /ory1 long & l[1 & ro($ ) ridge tiles ( a delightful bronze col\r1 ! tiles1 probably sun-bak$1 be+ d\bl$ & trebl$ ov] & "u alt]nately4 ,! roads 7 cov]$ ) a f9e du/ ( a ri* r$di%-br[n t9t1 almo/ c(fee col\r1 & ?is t9t v>i$ ) ! full r$ & bright :ite ( ! dresses ( ! natives1 & _! d>k sk9s1 & reliev$ by ! cle> light gre5 ( ! paddy fields1 & ! gold & gre5 ( ! palms1 9 ! w>m ev5+ sunlight1 made a f9e h>mony4 ,we pass$ a ,h9du temple & a tank1 & cross$ a bridge ov] ! broad riv] 7,ady>7 & on ! o!r side pres5tly drove "u an anci5t fragm5t ( a /one c>v$ gateway1 & s ?r\gh ! wood$ gr\nds to ! ,ady> ,libr>y1 a new build+ ( r$ brick & r$ s&/one ( semi-,h9du type4 ,a lady clad 9 :ite conduct$ me to a l>ge upp] *amb] v l(ty & long 9 proportion to its wid?1 furni%$ m or less l a ,european draw+-room1 ) *airs & c\*es1 b high on ! wall at int]vals 7 v>i\s religi\s symbols1 9 :ite pla/] relief1 among :i* ,i notic$ ! ,gammadion & ! ,s]p5t & ! ,tree4 ,!re 0 a pretty view ov] ! riv] f ! w9d[s1 on ! side4 ,pres5tly ,mrs ,besant ent]$4 ,%e 0 rob$ 9 :ite4 ,x 0 ! s>i dress ( ! native wom5 9 "s f9e s(t mat]ial1 ) embroid]$ bord]s also :ite4 ,h] hair too _h :it5$ s9ce ,i knew h] 9 ,london _m ye>s be=e4 ,we spoke ( ! old days--( ,cunn+hame ,graham1 ,g4 ,b]n>d ,%aw1 & ,sidney ,webb4 ,mrs ,besant1 once an active & ard5t sociali/1 seem$ to h q remov$ h]self into ano!r _w1 /rik+ly diff]5t f ! "o ( /rife & prote/ 9 :i* %e ) h] wond]ful eloqu5ce _h be5 a pot5t influ5ce1 & 0 n[ devot+ h] life to inculcat+ ! pr9ciples ( ,!osophy & educational "w among ! "y ,h9dus4 ,h] idea 0 to ga!r ! be/ elem5ts out ( all religions1 & to unite !m 9 "o compreh5sive cre$1 ! keynote ( :i*1 z ,i und]/ood1 is univ]sal bro!rhood4 ,9 h] s*ools %e desir$ to cultivate ! high] side ( ! native ,h9du religion1 ref9+ & spiritualis+1 ?\gh by no means ,europeaniz+1 b pres]v+ all native *>act]i/ics 9 dress & c\rte\s mann]s1 & z f> z possible prev5t+ any ,we/]n contam9ation4 ,9 ! great hall on ! gr\nd floor ! fir/ ?+ t cat*es ! visitor's eye is ! text inscrib$ al(t on ! entablature 9 l>ge c>v$ *>act]s--8,!re is no religion high] ?an tru?40 ,on ! walls ( ?is hall1 also1 are c>v$ 9 /one ano!r s]ies ( symbols1 treat$ z a s]ies ( panels 9 relief1 & among ^! x 0 int]e/+ to f9d ,mr ,holman ,hunt's well-kn[n picture 8,! ,light ( ! ,_w10 reproduc$ 9 relief by a native sculptor4 ,9 a recess 9 ! opposite wall 0 a life-size seat$ portrait ( ,madame ,blavatsky 9 m>ble4 ,x 0 int5d$ to place a /atue ( ,colonel ,alcott /&+ beside h]1 ,mr ,besant told me4 ,8 loss w be a sev]e "o = ! ,society4 ,we drove back by way ( ! ,triplicane or ,mohamm$an qu>t]--! native baza>1 a brilliant sc5e ( col\r & movem5t4 ,on ! way we pass$ sev]al 8,toddy ,tapp]s10 z !y are call$1 at "w on ! palm & /ems4 ,^! are natives :o extract a sort ( _s f ! palm1 & :o1 clad only 9 :ite turbans & wai/-clo?s1 climb ! tall1 smoo? column> /ems ( ! cocoa palm1 by a curi\s me?od--a sort ( loop ( cane :i* encircles ! upp] "p ( ! body1 & hooks r\nd ! tree /em4 ,?is !y %ift 9 j]ks z !y climb1 us+ _! legs & feet 9 ! usual way z a grip on ! /em4 ,we notic$ ! small1 g\rd-l bottles atta*$ to "s ( ! trees1 :i* are plac$ s z to cat* ! juice f incisions made 9 ! b>k4 ,! _s made f ?is juice is sold 9 ! baza>s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,madras--,a ,,j9-,,rick%aw ,,made ,,= ,,two ,! j9-rick%aw is mu* 9 use 9 ,madras z a means ( locomotion1 & "s ( !m w ev5 c>ry two p at once1 ?\gh ?is seems heavy = "o boy4 ,! native boys :o draw !m are1 h[ev]1 active en\gh & b little encumb]$ ) clo!s1 & are always eag] = cu/om4 ,m\nt ,road is ! ma9 ?or\ghf>e 9 ! ,european qu>t]1 & "h all ! pr9cipal %ops & /ores are situat$4 ,^! z build+s 7 mo/ly pret5ti\s & ta/eless4 ,/ ,george's ca!dral 0 a semi-classic *ur* ) a po9t$ spire4 ,! ,po/ ,(fice _h r$-til$ gabl$ spires ( a m or less ,swiss type1 ) iron cre/+s1 & arcad$ balconies on ea* /ory4 ,"o sees relics ( eighte5? c5tury semi-classic ta/e 9 "s ( ! old] h\ses ) pla/]$ walls yell[ & :ite-wa%$4 ,! va/ g>d5s :i* broke ! cont9uity ( ! build+s1 & (t5 isolat$ !m1 & ! pleasant av5ue-l "* ( ! ma9 roads1 always l9$ ) %ady trees1 made up = _m ar*itectural %ort-com+s1 & aga9 sugge/$ spaci\s ideas = a g>d5 city4 ,at ! head ( ,m\nt ,road 0 ! ,munro /atue :]e o!r roads div]g$--a bronze /atue by ,*antry ( a g5tleman 9 a cloak po9t+--probably to indicate 8 l9e ( policy1 ?\gh1 m lit]ally1 he might be tak5 to be %[+ ! /rang] :at a long way he 0 f ,madras4 ,! electric trams are no d\bt useful z ! di/ances are enorm\s & du/y1 walk+ be+ impossible = ,europeans1 z !y w\ld soon be cov]$ ) a p[d]+ ( f9e r$ du/4 ,we paid a visit "o ev5+ to ! ,botanic ,g>d5s :]e we saw ! ,victoria ,regia 7:i* is usually associat$ ) ! inside ( a ho?\se at ,kew7 gr[+ 9 ! op5 on a lake4 ,!re 7 beautiful palms "h & _m v>ieties ( trees4 ,"o we not$ 0 cov]$ ) :ite blossoms :i* look$ & smell$ l orange or lemon fl[]s1 & _h gre5 fruit ( an egg %ape1 hang+ f its bran*es4 ,madras we f\nd too oppressive & in]vat+ to /ay long1 & s on ,febru>y #h? we dep>t$ = ,tanjore1 ris+ at #d4cj ,a4,m4 to cat* an e>ly tra91 & 7 only able to snat* a ha/y hazri1 & get into a belat$ c>riage & drive ?r\gh ! gloom ( ! e>ly morn+--or r by ! dim light ( ! wan+ moon to ! /ation = ! #e4de tra9 ,s\?4 ,our comp>tm5t 0 %>$ at diff]5t /ages ( ! j\rney by ,briti% (fic]s4 ,a ,babu ) a quantity ( baggage1 & ?ree ,g]man ,mission p--a g5tleman & two ladies ) /ill m baggage1 :o fill$ x pretty well up to ,tanjore4 ,! c\ntry seem$ v productive1 & on ea* side ( ! l9e mo/ ( ! way 7 l>ge crops ( paddy1 mu* ( x "u wat]4 ,9 _m places1 too1 ! natives 7 pl\gh+ 9 ! wat]4 ,! crops 9 "s ( ! fields 7or r pa/ures sep>at$ by l[ banks ( e>?7 7 a brilliant light gre51 9 o!rs ! gra9 0 ripe1 & 0 be+ reap$ ) hooks by ! natives1 :ile fur!r on !y w\ld be ?re%+ & /ack+ ! /raw4 ,! me?od ( ?re%+ out ! gra9 0 primitive4 ,a man w\ld hold a loose %eaf 9 8 h& & beat x h>d1 sev]al times 9 succession1 on ! gr\nd2 ?is %ook out ! gra91 & !n he w\ld ca/ ! /raw t rema9$ to ! m5 :o 7 /ack+ x ne> by4 ,!y made l[ wide /acks /raight on to ! b>e e>?4 ,! wom5 ga!r$ up ! paddy z x 0 reap$4 ,we pass$ m f9e groves ( cocoa palms1 di/ant hills 7 visible inl& "h & !re1 & !re 7 g5]ally l>ge %eets ( wat] ea* side ( ! l9e1 b ! riv]s :i* we frequ5tly cross$ 7 almo/ dry4 ,! cr[ds ( natives at all ! /ations 7 aga9 v int]e/+4 ,! m5 g5]ally we>+ _! hair long & done up 9 knots4 ,9 fact ! m5 _h f9] & m luxuriant heads ( hair ?an ! wom51 ^: hair 0 usually %ort & fuzzy4 ,sometimes ! m5 _h _! =eheads & temples %av$1 & let _! hair gr[ freely at ! back4 ,ca/e m>ks 7 pa9t$ v boldly & di/9ctly on ! d>k =eheads4 ,! sacr$ m>k ( ,siva occurr+ mo/ frequ5tly--a r$ v]tical /roke 9 ! c5tre betwe5 two :ite l9es radiat+ f ! nose4 ,! m5 also wore ! col\r$ skirt tightly wrapp$ ab\t _! middle & fall+ to _! feet1 ! upp] p>ts ( _! bodies be+ left b>e1 except = a loose :ite sc>f1 l a t[el1 ?r[n ov] _! %\ld]s4 ,! coolies & agriculturi/s wore no?+ b turbans & wai/-clo?s4 ,! wom5 inv>iably wore silv] nose r+s1 e>+s & anklets1 & ! ,s>i dress4 ,mahom$ans seem$ to be v sc>ce 9 ^! p>ts4 ,z to col\r1 r$s & :ites prevail$ 9 ! dresses4 ,sometimes ! vivid crude 7mag5ta7 anil9e p9k :i* has become un=tunately too common 9 ,india 0 to be se54 ,a fav\rite bl5d 0 r$ & yell[ 9 ! wom5's ,s>i dresses1 9 /ripes1 or cross$ t>tan-wise4 ,light cakes1 bananas1 & pa9t$ toys & o!r trifles 7 hawk$ ab\t at ! /ations1 ! sell]s utt]+ curi\s cries & *ants4 ,e /ation _h its tap ( wat]1 & always a ?ir/y ?rong ( natives f _! cr[d$ comp>tm5ts w\ld be se5 clu/]+ ar\nd x fill+ _! bright brass dr9k+ cups1 :i* !y inv>iably c>ry1 qu5*+ _! ?ir/ & wa%+ !mselves4 ,apropos ( ! refre%m5t /ations1 ,i f9d a note 9 my j\rnal z to :at appe>s to h be5 a p>ticul>ly unsatisfactory ,tiff9 at ,villup>am1 = :i* we 7 induc$ to pay #a rupee #h annas 9 advance1 b ( :i* 8only a little currie 0 really eatable40 ,h[ mu* m s5sible 7p]*ance n s pr(itable7 x w\ld be to give travell]s ! *ance ( ord]+ f ! c>te1 & pay+ accord+ to a fix$ t>iff4 ,travell]s are by no means always able to eat ! provid$ meal1 & ne$ milk & easily dige/ible foods1 & simple cook]y4 ,! h>d meat1 /r+y f[l1 & mess$ up di%es usually (f]$ are v inappropriate1 if n positively injuri\s food4 ,simply cook$ s\nd fre% food is a great want at hotels & railway /ations all ov] ,india4 ,we arriv$ at ,tanjore betwe5 #f & #g 9 ! ev5+4 ,!re 7 sleep+ & refre%m5t rooms at ! /ation4 ,! /ation-ma/] met u & said t a room w\ld be vacant at #i o'clock1 z ,"l & ,lady ----8 :o !n occupi$ !m 7 leav+ by ! #i ,p4,m4 mail4 ,9 ! meantime we _h a ladies' wait+-room to ourselves & c\ld d9e dur+ ! int]val4 ,! sleep+-rooms 7 across a bridge on ! o!r side ( ! l9e 9 a new t]rac$ build+1 ) an ,engli% h\sekeep] sort ( woman to receive u & our rupees4 ,!re 0 q an up-to-date porcela9 ba?1 b1 on exam9ation1 "o tap 0 cut (f1 & !re 0 no wat] 9 ! o!r6 ,!re 7 spr+ b$s & mosquito curta9s1 & x 0 a fairly cool room4 ,! sy/em "h 0 to *>ge #a rupee #h annas = a room = ! fir/ twelve h\rs1 & if occupi$ = long] !n ! rate 0 high]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,tanjore--,,! ,,great ,,gate ,,( ,,! ,,temple ,he>+ !re 0 a good ,dak bungal[ ne> by1 we decid$ to take up our qu>t]s !re ! next morn+ & f\nd x q nice1 cool1 quiet1 old-fa%ion$ & unpret5ti\s1 & !re be+ no o!r travell]s we _h x all to ourselves4 ,f :at ! native 9 *>ge said x appe>$ t ! new /ation rooms r injur$ 8 cu/om1 z travell]s n[ mo/ly /ay$ !re4 ,our exploration ( ,tanjore comm5c$ by driv+ to ! ,old ,=t )9 :i* /&s ! great ,h9du ,temple d$icat$ to ,siva4 ,! great gateway is approa*$ by a bridge ov] a moat1 !n dry1 :i* surr\nds ! ,=t4 ,! out] gate is pla/]$ & is cr[n$ by a r[ ( figures ( deities 9 ni*es :i* are brightly col\r$4 ,! great gateway is ( yell[ s&/one & is ri*ly c>v$--a mass ( figures & detail4 ,! image ( ! god ,siva & 8 v>i\s inc>nations con/antly appe>s4 ,v>i\s leg5ds connect$ ) ^! are pa9t$ on ! walls ( ! c\rt at ! back ( an arcade1 & are exce$+ly curi\s4 ,! great ,n&i1 or sacr$ ,bull ( ,siva1 a colossal image ( a recumb5t ,bull1 ri*ly ornam5t$ ) *a9s & bells ar\nd 8 neck1 is se5 on a p$e/al approa*$ by /eps 9 ! c5tre ( ! c\rt1 "u a pill>$ & decorat$ canopy4 ,:5 we saw x fir/ a magnific5t peacock _h p]*$ himself ^u ! head ( ! bull1 8 tail droop+ ov] its neck4 ,! bull 0 c>v$ out ( a f9e black /one1 really sy5ite1 b mu* d>k5$ by libations ( oil ) :i* ! image is con/antly ano9t$4 ,x has all ! "* ( ! type ( zebu 9 ?is di/rict4 ,we saw its liv+ prototype 9 a /reet ( ,tanjore--a spl5did black bull 7%ort-horn$7 ly+ d[n ) its yoke companion1 a :ite "o1 equally noble look+4 ,! pill>$ front ( ! small temple close by 0 ri*ly col\r$1 & on a sort ( frieze 0 a s]ies ( portraits ( ! reign+ family ( ,mah>ajahs4 ,! ,temple guide spoke a little ,engli%1 b occasionally w\ld /op = want ( words1 b we g5]ally ga!r$ 8 mean+1 & he seem$ unusually intellig5t4 ,gane%a1 ! elephant god 7( g5]ation7 frequ5tly appe>$ among ! o!rs1 ,siva & ,p>vati be+ ! *ief4 ,"o ( ! sc5es pa9t$ on ! wall ( ! arcade1 already spok5 (1 repres5t$ ! w$d+ ( ,siva & ,p>vati1 :o /ood1 h& 9 h&1 ) a tree 9 ! middle--l ,adam & ,eve4 ,among ! gue/s at ?is w$d+ 7 repres5t$ two giants1 "o ^: appetite seem$ to "k no limit1 :ile ! ?ir/ ( ! o!r 0 unqu5*able4 ,! fir/ 0 %[n dev\r+ all k9ds ( food1 & to express ! dr9k+ capacity ( ! o!r a /ream ( wat] full ( fi% 0 fl[+ into ! m\? ( ! o!r4 ,^! 7 v primitive pa9t+s1 b expressive4 ,! figures 7 drawn 9 black outl9e & fill$ 9 ) flat t9ts4 ,at ! gate ( ! ,temple !re 7 draw+s on ! :ite-wa%$ wall 9 ?ick outl9e 9 ,indian r$1 9 q a diff]5t /yle & no d\bt ( a mu* lat] date4 ,a l>ge numb] ( ,l+ams 7 %[n 9 r[s plac$ toge!r 9 "o corn] ( ! c\rt1 & !re 7 _m ,l+am %r9es 9 ! arcade besides4 ,"h & !re 0 col\r+ on ! c>v$ figures1 b1 z a rule1 ! elaborately c>v$ pagodas 7 left 9 yell[ s&/one1 :i* _h black5$ :]e expos$ to ! wea!r1 & x may h be5 t col\r _h be5 worn (f4 ,! lat] temple 7dat+ f ab\t ! fifte5? c5tury7 _h rem>kably delicate c>v+ on its l[] c\rses1 ! edges be+ frequ5tly pi]c$4 ,at ! /eps ( ! entrance an elephant1 c>v$ on ea* side1 =m$ ! balu/rade1 ea* hav+ two trunks1 "o curl+ inw>ds & hold+ a man 9 its coil1 & ! second ext5d$ & t]m9at+ 9 a volute at ! end ( ! /eps on ea* side4 ,!re 0 a noticeable po9t1 z giv+ fur!r evid5ce ( primitive wood5 con/ruction1 9 ! c>v$ detail "u ! eaves ( ! great temple :]e !re 0 a sort ( int]sect$ lattice "w fai?fully r5d]$ 9 /one4 ,x recall$ ! scre5s ( bamboo & matt+1 commonly us$ 9 ?is di/rict1 add$ on to ! edges ( ! til$ ro(s 9 front ( ! huts & bungal[s z extra %ields f ! sun1 & ?is c>v$ /one lattice "w may h be5 d]iv$ f ! wood "w & ! cane & wick] /ructure ( ! primitive build+s :i* prec$$ ! use ( /one4 ,9 ! c\rt ( ! great temple1 9 a %$ 7ro($ ) corrugat$ iron ,i regret to say71 we saw ! c>s us$ = ! procession ?r\gh ! city1 on ! occasion ( ! great annual fe/ival 9 ,m>*1 :i* appe>s to be simil> to ! ,jugg]naut4 ,! high pyramidal canopi$ ro(1 support$ on columns1 0 c>v$ l ! pagoda ( a temple1 :i*1 9 fact1 x repres5t$4 ,! image ( ! god be+ plac$ )94 ,! c> w\ld be drawn by a pair ( ox54 ,we saw aft]w>ds a religi\s procession ( ! k9d pass+ d[n ! pr9cipal /reet4 ,two m5 c>ri$ a bann] 9 front1 a piece ( r$ clo? susp5d$ betwe5 two poles4 ,aft] !m came a b& play+ tom-toms & hautboys1 su* z we he>d at ,b5>es4 ,!n came ! c> drawn by two zebus1 ) its high pagoda1 accompani$ by prie/s 9 :ite robes1 ) long hair & m>ks on _! =eheads4 ,x /ruck me z rem>kable h[ closely ! dress ( ! native m5 "h resembles t ( ! p ( anci5t ,egypt z pictur$ on ! monum5ts4 ,inde$1 ! ,h9du pan!on itself sugge/s a c]ta9 k9%ip to ! symbolic ,egyptian religion1 embrac+1 z x appe>s to d1 ! deification ( all natural =ces & types ( animals & birds4 ,! ,h9dus h _! elephant god1 _! monkey god1 & _! p>rot god1 = in/ance1 ea* figur$ ) ! animal's head b o!rwise human1 j z ! ,egyptians imag$ _! hawk-head$1 cat-head$1 & o!r deities4 ,! ox ( ,osiris1 too1 seems to pres5t a p>allel to ! sacr$ bull ( ,siva4 ,we next visit$ ! tank 9 ! citadel1 not$ = ! purity ( its wat]1 b x look$ muddy en\gh we ?\ght1 & felt no incl9ation to te/ ! sample (f]$ u by a native 9 a cup4 ,ne> ! tank 0 a v pla9 ,*ri/ian *ur*1 dat+ f ab\t ! end ( ! #ah? c5tury or ! beg9n+ ( ! #ai?1 absolutely b>e ( ornam5t or symbol1 ) ! exception ( a small mural monum5t at ! we/ end--a bas-relief 9 m>ble by ,flaxman1 9 memory ( "o ,s*w>tz1 a ,briti% mission>y4 ,n1 h[ev]1 a v good specim5 ( ! sculptor's "w1 & look+ z if x _h be5 r done to ord]1 & ?\gh x _h ,flaxman's *>act]i/ic broad simple treatm5t1 0 r ov] smoo? & 8goody-goody0 9 expression--a mission>y look+ b5evol5t on 8 dea?-b$1 cl]ical att5dant & probable successor at 8 side1 gr\p ( good boys 9 front1 & r[ ( turban$ ,indians1 presumably conv]ts1 on ! o!r side ( ! b$4 ,x 0 curi\s to see ?is b>e1 gaunt1 puritanical-look+ *ur*1 plant$ almo/ 9 ! %ad[ ( ! great ,h9du temple ) its frank nature wor%ip1 pan!ism1 & riot ( symbolism & imag]y4 ,f ! citadel & ! temples we drove ov] ! bridge across ! riv] into ! city to see ! palace ( ! ,mah>ajah4 ,n a v beautiful build+--a big1 rambl+1 yell[-wa%$ pile1 look+ r untidy & neglect$4 ,9 ! gu>droom at ! entrance gate1 !re 0 a portrait ( ! fa!r ( ! pres5t pr9ce4 ,?r\gh a corridor1 ! walls ( :i* 7 pa9t$ ) qua9t figures1 we rea*$ a small *amb]1 op5 on "o side1 b pa9t$ on ! ?ree o!r walls ) l>ge eque/rian portraits ( ?ree ,mah>ajahs--gr&fa!r1 fa!r1 & son4 ,!y 7 9 pr(ile1 v ri*ly dress$1 & on f9ely cap>ison$ horses1 ) hunt+ dogs--! dogs runn+ und]nea? ! horses4 ,^! mural portraits 7 pa9t$ 9 temp]a1 app>5tly1 on ! :ite-wa%$ wall1 & _h flak$ (f 9 places1 b !y 7 good *>act]i/ic ,indian "w1 & rem9d$ "o a little 9 treatm5t ( ,european m$ival design1 su* z may be se5 9 ,burgundian tape/ries ( ! end ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,we next came to a small c\rt :]e we saw ! ,durb> ,hall1 divid$ f ! c\rt by an op5 colonnade4 ,inside 0 a miscellane\s collection ( objects--portraits1 r dre>y ones ( ! ,mah>ajahs & fav\rite h\nds1 "s on v dilapidat$ canvasses ) holes ?r\gh !m--old-fa%ion$ ,fr5* li?ographs ( ! e>ly 8fifties10 mu* fly-bl[n2 a h&some palanqu91 ) dragons' heads on ! ends ( ! poles2 ano!r "o 0 c>v$1 & plat$ ) ivory4 ,!re 0 also a beautiful ivory fan1 ( a l>ge size & peculi> %ape1 probably to be us$ z a punka4 ,!n1 too1 !re 0 a bronze bu/ ( ,"l ,nelson1 pres5t$ by "s ,engli% lady to a =m] ,mah>ajah1 & h] own "w4 ,!n we saw ! libr>y1 :i* conta9$ q a l>ge collection ( old-fa%ion$ ,engli% books--9 eighte5? & e>ly n9ete5? c5tury b9d+s--su* z a set ( ,! ,spectator1 ,hayley's ,poems1 ,burns1 ,scott1 etc41 & also an ext5sive libr>y ( ,h9du & ,tamil manuscripts4 ,^! 7 peculi> 9 =m1 & consi/$ ( long oblong %eets ( a r\ghi% sort ( pap]1 r resembl+ papyrus 9 quality1 protect$ by ?9 bo>ds on loose cov]s ( ?9 wood1 secur$ r\nd ! middle by ties4 ,^! cov]s 7 sometimes lacqu]$ on _! outsides 9 v>i\s designs4 ,on "o ,i notic$ ! typical design repres5t+ ,vi%nu1 ) ! lotus fl[] spr++ f 8 navel :i* conta9s ! figure ( ,buddha1 ,laksmi look+ on 9 wond]4 ,^! figures 7 drawn 9 black outl9e on gold1 ! gold high-ton$ ) col\r$ lacqu]s4 ,a smell ( naph?a or "s su* mo? antidote p]vad$ ! place4 ,we 7 !n %[n ! arm\ry1 :]e !re 7 "s r %[y sport+ guns ( ,engli% make1 be>+ ! "n ( ,mortim] ,co41 & elaborately *as$4 ,!re 7 v vile portraits ( ,k+ ,edw>d ,,vii4 & ,que5 ,alex&ra4 ,aft] ?is we saw ano!r ,durb> ,hall--! ,mah>ana's--adorn$ ) m dre>y portraits ( ! family & a few /uff$ birds4 ,! mo/ curi\s ?+ 0 a real skeleton 9 a real cupbo>d1 side by side ) a skeleton beautifully imitat$ 9 ivory4 ,!re !y hung inside a pla9 upright cupbo>d1 look+ l a hang+ w>drobe--b :at a w>drobe6 ,:at hung !re ne$$ no robes6 ,d[n ! ma9 /reet ( ,tanjore !re 7 plac$ at int]vals v curi\s & ri*ly c>v$ wood5 pagodas1 app>5tly v old1 ^u c>s ) massive :eels ( wood1 some:at l rude ox-c>t :eels1 "s ( !m be+ discs4 ,^! 7 probably us$ 9 processions at ! fe/ivals4 ,! h\ses 7 g5]ally l[1 & ( only "o /ory1 ) ! l[-pit*$ ridge-til$ ro(s z at ,madras1 ! por*es & rais$ t]races on plat=ms 9 front =m+ ! %ops1 be+ fur!r protect$ f ! sun by lean-to extra ro(s or scre5s ( matt+ & bamboo1 sometimes support$ on uprights ( cocoa palm /ems4 ,occasionally ^! scre5s are support$ by gr[+ trees :i* spread _! foliage above4 ,pumpk9s & g\rds are (t5 gr[n ^u ! til$ ro(s1 & h a *>m+ effect ) _! w&]+ /ems1 gre5 leaves1 & gold5 sph]es ( fruit scatt]$ ov] ! ri* br[n tiles4 ,! roads are deep 9 r$-br[n du/ z at ,madras1 & !re is a cont9ual traffic ( little cov]$ tongas drawn by little trott+ zebus 9 s+le h>ness4 ,we _h a brok5-d[n victoria to drive 91 & a fe>ful old crock ( a horse1 giv5 to jibb+ & really n fit to drive4 ,! c>riage seats 7 slid+ ones1 too6 ,tanjore spreads itself ov] a l>ge area ( op5 spaces1 int]sp]s$ ) trees1 g>d5s1 & tanks4 ,! wat] is abundant1 & wa%+ op]ations frequ5t4 ,!re is no coh]5t plan ab\t ! t[n1 ! /reets w&]+ ab\t into op5 space1 & leav+ (f 9 a casual sort ( way4 ,!re 0 a consid]able m>ket go+ on 9 provisions1 & !re 0 a silk-weav+ qu>t] :]e may be se5 ! native weav]s /ret*+ long ?reads ( silk on bamboo frames ! :ole l5g? ( ! /reet1 & w9d+ x (f on to :eels--our c>riage ne>ly collid$ ) "o 9 a n>r[ /reet4 ,! raw silk is (t5 w\nd r\nd %ort /aves4 ,we visit$ a weav]'s %op1 & 7 %[n "s h&-wov5 silk s>is1 brocad$ ) silv] ?read1 ! silv] be+ turn$ into gold by "s col\r+ process4 ,a dress ( t5 y>ds c be b\ght ( ?is beautiful mat]ial = #bd rupees4 ,r$ & purple are ! pr9cipal col\rs1 & ^!1 ) ! gold ?read wov5 9 bord] designs ( elephants1 horses & peacocks1 h a v gorge\s effect4 ,european influ5ce seems to h decl9$ 9 ,tanjore1 al?\gh !re are num]\s ,*ri/ian missions ab\t4 ,:at /rikes ! unprejudic$ spectator is ! extreme unsuitability ( any mod]n we/]n type ( ,prote/ant ,*ri/ianity1 ) all t x involves to ! native m9d1 to say no?+ ( climate & habit4 ,we/]n influ5ce1 x is true1 ass]ts itself to ! eye1 at lea/1 9 ! =m ( an ugly clock t[]1 & we pass$ 8,! ,tanjore ,union ,club10 :]e we saw native g5tlem5 9 _! cool1 :ite1 loose clo?+ play+ lawn t5nis 9 a well laid-out c\rt4 ,b ! life ( ! mass ( ! p goes on un*ang$ z x has done = ages4 ,9 driv+ ?r\gh ! t[n we saw _m little :ite-wa%$ temples among ! native h\ses1 _! ri*ly c>v$ pagodas ris+ above ! l[ br[n til$ ro(s4 ,at ! doors are qua9t pa9t+s ( elephants or tig]s1 & ! :ite walls ( ! %ops & dwell+s are frequ5tly ornam5t$ 9 ! same way ) curi\s figures1 among :i* occurs n unfrequ5tly ! ,engli% soldi] ) a dragoon's helmet & jack-boots4 ,outside a liquor %op ,i saw1 pa9t$ r boldly 9 r$ outl9e1 a ,european lady & g5tleman refre%+ !mselves ) w9e-glasses 9 _! h&s4 ,! lady's co/ume reproduc$ ! r fussy fa%ion ( tw5ty-five or ?irty ye>s ago1 ! frills & furbel[s q c>efully work$ out ) ! ,indian love ( detail1 b someh[ ! g5]al effect 0 r ,elizabe?an ?an ,victorian4 ,9 pass+ along "o ( ! /reets we he>d a s\nd ( tom-toms1 & pres5tly saw approa*+ on a zebu c>t a l>ge !atrical po/] pa9t$ on ! out] sides ( two l>ge bo>ds lean+ toge!r1 t5t-wise1 on ! c>t4 ,^! bore ann\ncem5ts 9 ,h9du/ani & ,arabic1 ) pictures ( excit+ sc5es--,rajahs fl\ri%+ scimit>s ov] p1 & s =?4 ,natives walk$ alongside ! c>t di/ribut+ p9k bills ( ! p]=mances pr9t$ 9 ,arabic1 :ile ! tom-toms attract$ att5tion to ! =?com+ %[4 ,9 ! ev5+ we drove to ! !atre1 accompani$ by our be>]4 ,we rea*$ an op5 gr\nd outside ! t[n2 x 0 r d>k1 b we saw a r[ ( lights 9 front ( u1 & he>d ! s\nd ( tom-toms4 ,! old horse jibb$ & w\ld n g fur!r1 s we left ! c>riage1 & ,moonsawmy conduct$ u to "s tempor>y /ructures ( matt+ & bamboo1 :]e tickets 7 sold4 ,"o rupee secur$ a *air 9 ! front r[4 ,! !atre 0 a l>ge1 t5t-l /ructure1 ) pla/]$ pi]s support+ a ro( ( matt+4 ,! floor 0 ( e>?1 ! common gr\nd1 9 fact1 ^u :i* ! back r[s squatt$4 ,! /age 0 also ( e>?1 rais$ ab\t ?ree or f\r feet1 ! front be+ pa9t$ 9 broad r$ & :ite v]tical /ripes4 ,! footlights 7 ord9>y oil lamps1 clu/]$ 9 gr\ps4 ,! audi5ce 0 entirely native 7besides ourselves1 :o 7 ! only ,europeans pres5t74 ,"s sat close up alongside ! /age on rais$ /eps ( e>?4 ,d>k drap]ies hung at ! sides ( ! prosc5ium1 & !re 0 a co>sely-pa9t$ drop sc5e1 ( ! k9d famili> 9 ?ird-rate prov9cial !atres & music-halls at home4 ,illu/ration3 ,,tanjore--,,native ,,!atre--,,h\se ,,full4 ,,p]=mance ,,f #i ,p4,m4 ,,till #b ,a4,m4--,,b ,,we ,,didn',t ,,/op ,,to ,,see ,,x ,,?r\gh ,! fir/ sc5e app>5tly repres5t$ a suburban /reet 9 ! ,european qu>t] ( an ,indian t[n2 at lea/ !re 0 a squ>e t[]$ *ur* 9 x1 ugly en\gh1 al?\gh "s high-pit*$ gables r sugge/$ suburban ,engl&4 ,a road 9 v acute p]spective ran ?r\gh ! c5tre ( ! sc5e1 :i* might1 aft] all1 h be5 b\ght f "s ,european travell+ !atre4 ,! curta9 rais] 0 ( a sort ( op]atic1 conv5tional c\rt%ip motive1 & consi/$ ( a musical dialogue betwe5 a "y lady & g5tleman ( unc]ta9 c\ntry1 co/ume1 & p]iod4 ,! girl 0 badly dress$ 9 a :ite musl9 frock1 ) a little r$ silk wai/b&1 & a t9sel coronet or ti>a on h] head4 ,%e kept h] eyes on ! gr\nd ! :ole "t1 & mov$ /iffly & %yly2 h] action1 z well z t ( ! g5tleman1 be+ r sugge/ive ( m>ionettes4 ,! lady began by s++1 ea* /rophe or c\plet be+ repeat$ or answ]$ by an anti/rophe f a *orus conceal$ beh9d ! sc5es1 to ! accompanim5t ( tom-toms4 ,! little woo] pres5tly appe>$ 7also a girl71 dress$ 9 a cap ( t9sel1 a tunic ( black velvet trimm$ ) silv] t9sel1 & bree*es ( ! same1 ) br[n hose or boots4 ,he also began s++ /rophes1 :i* 7 respond$ to or repeat$ by ! *orus1 & ! lady repli$ 9 ! same way4 ,:5ev] ! lov] made any advances ! lady repell$ !m1 &1 aft] ea* ( h] sung spee*es1 cross$ ov] to ! opposite side ( ! /age1 ! lov] do+ ! same4 ,aft] a long c\rse ( ?is monoton\s "q & answ]1 s+-song bus9ess1 !y f9ally came to t]ms1 & /ood s++ toge!r1 ! lov] ) 8 arm r\nd ! lady's %\ld]s4 ,a h>monium1 play+ at ! w+s1 assi/$ ! tom-toms4 ,! pice de resi/ance next began4 ,! fir/ sc5e 0 a room ( /ate 9 a ,rajah's palace4 ,! ,rajah & 8 gr& vizi]1 & an old prie/ or soo?say] 9 a turban & ,indian dress1 7 ! *>act]s4 ,! ,rajah 0 a :ite man1 ( a r ,iri% ca/ ( c\nt5ance4 ,he 0 dress$ 9 black & silv]1 hav+ wond]ful silv] spangles 9 circul> pat*es z big z d9n] plates d[n ! front ( 8 tr\s]s4 ,he wore a sabre at 8 side1 & he 0 seat$ on a ?rone m\nt$ on sev]al /eps1 & ea* /ep 0 decorat$ by a l>ge globe ( silv]$ ,bohemian glass4 ,! vizi] 0 attir$ 9 a simil> way1 b n q s gorge\s z ! k+4 ,f our be>]'s int]pretation x appe>$ t ! ,rajah1 or k+1 :o comm5c$ *ant+ 9 a mo/ doleful & monoton\s way1 0 9 tr\ble = want ( an heir to ! ?rone1 & consult$ ! turban$ old g5tleman ab\t x1 :o gave 8 advice at consid]able l5g?4 ,! next sc5e %[$ ! int]ior ( a temple2 an image ( ! sacr$ bull 0 !re1 & a black man1 clad only 9 a wai/ clo?1 0 (ficiat+1 app>5tly z prie/4 ,he 0 also evid5tly reg>d$ z a comic actor by ! audi5ce1 & x 0 r curi\s to obs]ve t 8 obvi\s burlesque ( "s native religi\s obs]vances 7 receiv$ ) laught]4 ,he seem$ to put ! ,rajah1 ! vizi]1 & ! soo?say]1 :o n[ ent]$1 ?r\gh _! religi\s paces1 wav+ a bru% ov] !m & putt+ g>l&s r\nd _! necks1 utt]+ curi\s gibb]i% ! :ile1 ) extravagant action1 :i* seem$ va/ly to amuse ! audi5ce4 ,! next sc5e %[$ ! ,rajah seat$ aga9 9 8 palace1 & to him ent]$ a troop ( z5anas to ann\nce ! joyful news ( ! bir? ( an heir2 b aft] !y _h dep>t$ ) _m salaams1 some?+ seem$ to g wrong1 & ! ,rajah began 8 doleful pla9t aga94 ,! soo?say] & ! vizi] 7 aga9 consult$1 & bo? _h a good deal to say1 b matt]s did n seem to m5d mu*1 & ! sc5e promis+ to be int]m9ably long1 we felt we _h _h ab\t z mu* ( ! drama z we c\ld d )1 & he>+1 moreov]1 t ! p]=mance w\ld cont9ue until #b ,a4,m41 hav+ comm5c$ at n9e1 we left ,moonsawmy to sit x out1 aft] he _h f\nd u our c>riage4 ,! next day we _h ano!r drive ?r\gh ! city & its surr\nd+s1 rea*+ a pleasant region ( palm-groves1 & lakes :]e buffaloes 7 enjoy+ a ba?4 ,!y lie 9 ! wat] q deeply1 ) (t5 only _! heads out or ! ridges ( _! backs %[+4 ,at ! bungal[ v>i\s native p$l>s & travell+ m]*ants came up ) _! bundles1 &1 z we sat "u ! v]&ah1 !y w\ld untie ^! & spread out _! w>es be=e u4 ,^! 7 g5]ally new silv] & copp] rep\ss di%es & b[ls1 samples ( ! craft ( ! ,tanjore di/rict1 b n good1 be+ vulg> & me*anical 9 workman%ip1 al?\gh repeat+ traditional patt]ns & repres5tations ( ! *ief deities ( ! ,h9du pan!on4 ,"s ( ^! 7 emboss$ 9 silv]1 or r 7 p>tly silv]$ ov] ! copp]1 leav+ bright copp] 9 p>ts1 b !y _h r a fla%y & ta/eless appe>ance4 ,! be/ ?+s 7 ! small antique bronzes & brass objects--bulls1 horses1 birds1 peacocks1 lamps1 & curi\s %ap$ vessels1 & _m ( ^! 7 highly int]e/+4 ,a pair ( bronze /irrups ,i acquir$ 7 *>m+ly design$1 & %[$ delicate design & workman%ip4 ,9 ! t[n !y make a k9d ( brass /&>d lamp1 9 v>i\s sizes1 hav+ a m\ld$ /em support+ a %all[ vessel = ! oil1 ) ni*es f f\r in*es1 ! brass image ( a cock is usually plac$ at ! top z a sort ( f9ial4 ,! p>ts are made to unscrew l ! well-kn[n antique ,roman lamp :i*1 9 g5]al design & /ructure1 ?is ,tanjore lamp /rongly recall$4 ,"s1 inde$1 7 t]m9at$ by r+ h&les j l ! ,roman ones4 ,we _h be5 fairly com=table at ! ,dak bungal[1 & ! two bro!rs :o kept x 7 mo/ anxi\s to please4 ,! cook+ 0 unusually good1 & ! place 0 c]ta9ly v quiet4 ,! w9d[s _h no glass1 b 7 clos$ ) ,v5etian %utt]s 7:i* did n always act1 h[ev]1 satisfactorily74 ,! floors 7 cov]$ ) ,india matt+1 & ! b$s 7 furni%$ ) mosquito nets4 ,! meals 7 nicely s]v$1 & ! table always deck$ ) fl[]s4 ,! !rmomet] 9 our rooms regi/]$ usually ab\t #ge degrees1 :]eas at ,madras x w5t up to #hj degrees4 ,wat] 0 n c>ri$ "h 9 goat-sk9s z 9 ,bombay & ! ,nor?-,we/ & ,c5tral ,prov9ces1 b 9 l>ge e>!n j>s4 ,a man w\ld c>ry "o 9 ea* h&1 or slung by /r+s f a /ick ov] ! %\ld]4 ,!re 0 a f9e "y native :o wat]$ ! g>d5 9 front ( our bungal[--he _h a spl5did figure1 & 0 almo/ ! col\r ( ebony4 ,i tri$ to get hold ( him to get a /udy f him1 b someh[ he 0 n to be f\nd :5 ! "t came1 & ano!r v inf]ior specim5 0 (f]$ 9 8 /ead4 ,we left ,tanjore on ! ev5+ ( ,febru>y #aa = ,tri*9opoly4 ,x is only a two h\rs' j\rney by ! railway1 & we arriv$ q punctually ab\t #h4cj4 ,x 0 too d>k to see mu* ( ! c\ntry1 or get any?+ b a vague idea ( ! place1 especially :5 "u ! cov] ( an ox tonga1 two ( :i* vehicles convey$ u & our baggage to ! travell]s' bungal[ ab\t a mile (f1 ! little zebus trott+ along at a brisk pace z fa/ z ponies1 & mu* bett] condition$ ?an any tonga ponies we saw 9 ,india4 ,at ! bungal[ we f\nd an ,engli% lady & g5tleman1 a newly arriv$ (ficial & 8 wife1 :o _h n yet got a h\se--:o 7 !n d9+ by c&le light on ! v]&ah--9 possession ( ! be/ room1 & _h to make ! be/ ( x 9 a small side room1 poorly furni%$1 & ) no mosquito nets4 ,we got "s soda & milk & turn$ 91 b1 alas1 ! b$s 7 h>d z nails & ! mosquitoes tr\blesome & /rong on ! w+1 :ile ! temp]ature w5t up to #hj degrees aga96 ,illu/ration3 ,,tri*9opoly--,,ox ,,tonga--,,vita ,,brevis6 ,aft] breakfa/ ! next morn+ we got a c>riage 7:i* 0 a consid]able improvem5t bo? z to vehicle & horse to ! "o at ,tanjore71 & drove t[>ds ! =t1 :i* /&s conspicu\sly on a bold rock ris+ abruptly f ! pla94 ,pass+ ?r\gh ! native baza> we cross$ ov] a long bridge1 :i* spann$ a v broad riv] ?rong$ ) ba!rs1 & p wa%+ clo!s1 & wat]+ cattle1 all busy 9 ! /ream :i* 0 q %all[1 n m ?an wai/ high4 ,?is bridge _h be5 design$ & built by an ,engli% eng9e]1 some:]e 9 ! =ties4 ,x 0 ( r$ s&/one1 & our driv] po9t$ out a /one 9 ! cop+ inscrib$ to c]ta9 ,engli% (fic]s :o s]v$ "u ,clive1 & help$ to lay 8! f\ndations ( ! ,briti% ,empire 9 ,india0 9 #agej-d4 ,at ab\t two miles f ,tri*9opoly we came to ! great ,temple ( ,s]+ham4 ,?at*$ native huts1 =m+ a sort ( baza>1 l$ up to & 7 clu/]$ ab\t ! great gates1 :i* resembl$ ! entrance to ! ,temple ( ,tanjore4 ,! height ( ! gateways 7 v great 9 proportion to _! wid?4 ,! great pagodas pil$ ov] !m 7 c>v$ ) ! greate/ ri*ness & intricacy ( detail1 & cov]$ ) ! figures ( gods & imag]y ( all k9ds1 surm\nt$ by ! curi\s r\nd$ long b>rel-l cre/+1 :i* is s *>act]i/ic ( ,h9du temple-ar*itecture4 ,! sculptur$ or modell$ "w "h 0 all col\r$1 b _m ( ! figures 7 said to be 9 /ucco4 ,i ?9k we pass$ ?r\gh ?ree ( ^! gateways be=e we rea*$ ! f9al "o lead+ into ! c\rt1 ) a _m column$ pavilion 9 ! c5tre1 hav+ a pa9t$ ceil+ 9 :i* ! ,h9du gods figur$4 ,! great ,temple ( ,s]+ham is sacr$ to ,vi%nu1 ^: image appe>s v frequ5tly4 ,opposite to ?is c5tral pavilion is a colonnade hav+ a frieze ( c>v$ & col\r$ figures "u a cre/+1 ,vi%nu be+ 9 ! c5tre4 ,?is seem$ to be ! ,h9du equival5t = a sculptur$ p$im5t4 ,! effect ( ! ?ickly clu/]$ columns ( :ite-wa%$ /one support+ ?is b& ( ri* c>v+ & col\r 0 v /rik+1 ! %>p light & %ade ( noontide ?r[+ ! front into /rong relief1 & ?r\gh ! aisles =m$ by ! columns we c\ld see ano!r light$ c\rt beyond4 ,! ma9 passage ?r\gh 0 l9$ by ! little /alls ( a baza>1 gr\p$ at ! bases ( ! columns1 :]e mem5toes 9 ! %ape ( small t9 pictures height5$ ) col\r$ lacqu] 7 /amp$ 9 relief ) repres5tations ( ,vi%nu & 8 goddess1 bead ros>ies & necklaces1 & jewell]y 7 also sold1 & little silk bags embroid]$ ) portraits ( ! same deities4 ,z we /ood fac+ ! second c\rt1 ! sacr$ elephant ( ! temple came up1 8 =ehead be>+ ! m>k ( ,vi%nu1 pa9t$ l>ge 9 r$ & :ite4 ,x 0 amus+ to see ! animal pick up a two-anna piece f ! gr\nd1 & pass x ov] its head to its keep] & driv] seat$ on its neck4 ,ano!r y\ng] & small] elephant soon jo9$ ! o!r1 & ?is "o _h beautiful tusks :i* 8 l>g] companion 0 )\t4 ,?is "o1 too1 skilfully pick$ up ! small co9s 9 ! same way1 fumbl+ ) ! s5sitive f+]-l po9t ( 8 trunk to get hold ( !m 9 ! crannies ( ! pavem5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,sacr$ ,,elephants ,,( ,,s]+ham--,,secur+ ,,two-,,anna ,,pieces6 ,we !n1 pass+ across ?is second c\rt1 ent]$ ! ,hall ( a ,?\s& ,columns--a sort ( ar*itectural =e/4 ,be=e ?is is rea*$1 h[ev]1 !re is a small] hall :i* has a v rem>kable range ( c>v$ columns--! mo/ extraord9>y c>v$ /one "w 9 ,s\!rn ,india4 ,!y are /rictly speak+ r column> brackets1 bracket$ columns or corbels re/+ on bases1 & !y repres5t w>riors on horses spe>+ lions & tig]s4 ,! *ief feature 9 ea* is ! re>+ horse1 :i* ) its rid] & lance1 & small] figures bel[1 & ! attack+ tig]1 or1 sometimes1 elephant1 =m a connect$ gr\p cut out ( a s+le block ( /one4 ,^! sculptures h s b>b>ic & antique an appe>ance t x seems surpris+ !y %\ld only date f ! sev5te5? & eighte5? c5turies toge!r ) ! :ole ( ! temple build+s4 ,a curi\s effect is giv5 to ! int]ior ( "s ( ! temples "h by ! practice ( :itewa%+ ! pill>s & walls1 & leav+ ! c>v$ figures unt\*$ 9 ! /one1 :i* gives !m by contra/ an unusually sw>?y appe>ance4 ,return+1 we _h a view ( ! ,rock ( ,tri*9opoly ) ! old =t & temple on ! summit4 ,?is sy5ite rock crops out 9 v>i\s places 9 ?is di/rict1 b n (t5 ris+ mu* above ! gr\nd1 b only em]g+ "h & !re f ! e>? 9 a mann] r sugge/ive ( ! backs ( tortoises4 ,saw a mongoose at ! roadside :i* soon crept out ( sight & hid 9 ! l[ bru%wood at our approa*4 ,tri*9opoly is well wood$1 b is n p>ticul>ly picturesque1 ?\gh ! scatt]$ til$ or ?at*$ bungal[s look pretty en\gh 9 _! g>d5s1 b on ! :ole x gives "o ! impression ( r a /raggl+ place4 ,!re 0 a des]t$ look+ mission *ur* ) a few tomb/ones ab\t x q ne> our bungal[1 try+ to look l an ,engli% village *ur*1 b n succe$+4 ,leipzig ,lu!rans & ,wesleyan ,me?odi/s are said to h 8missions0 "h1 z well z ! ,*ur* ( ,engl&4 ,^! mission>ies seem to plant _! /ations :]ev] !re are important ,h9du temples4 ,! wond] is t ! natives are s tol]ant4 ,madura 0 our next de/9ation1 & we 7 n sorry to get away f our /ifl+ little b>n ( a room at ! bungal[1 leav+ 9 ! e>ly morn+ ab\t daybreak = ! #e4de ,madras mail4 ,! c\ntry 0 flat at fir/1 )1 aga91 l>ge %eets ( wat] along ! sides ( ! l9e1 b z we pass$ f ! ,tri*9opoly di/rict to ! ,madura di/rict we ent]$ a m\nta9\s region1 ?ickly wood$4 ,i not$ _m c$> trees1 & a k9d ( cactus gr[+ high ) tall tree-l /em4 ,x 0 an int]e/+ & v>i$ c\ntry ! re/ ( ! way4 ,! crops 7 *iefly paddy & ca/or oil plant4 ,"o /ation _h ! extraord9>y "n ( ,ammayanayakanur1 & we 7 soon 9 ! tobacco-gr[+ di/rict1 pass+ ,d9digul ) a rock & an old =t ^u x1 n unlike ,tri*9opoly 9 "*4 ,cig>s ( ! di/rict 7 (f]$ at ! /ation1 b we saw no tobacco crops ne> ! l9e4 ,we rea*$ ,madura ab\t noon1 9 "t = tiff91 & engag$ a room at ! /ation1 :i* 0 a great improvem5t z to b$s & g5]al appo9tm5ts on our rec5t bungal[ exp]i5ces4 ,! sleep+-rooms 7 built out on a sep>ate w+ :i* appe>$ to be new4 ,!y op5$ on to a corridor :i* l$ to a l>ge op5 t]race1 & 7 9 *>ge ( a ,eurasian woman4 ,!re 0 also a good d9+-room at ! /ation4 ,x 0 trem5d\sly hot1 h[ev]1 & we c\ld n v well move out until aft] #d o'clock1 :5 hav+ engag$ a guide we drove out to see ! great temple4 ,our be>] object$ /rongly to ! guide & !re 0 "s friction betwe5 !m1 b z native s]vants 7 prohibit$ f ent]+ ! temples1 & 7 always /opp$ at ! gates1 ,moonsawmy c\ld n %[ cause :y ! guide 0 n necess>y1 & we f\nd him v intellig5t1 speak+ ,engli% well1 & hav+ ! hi/ory ( ! place at 8 f+]s' ends4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,rivals4 ,,our ,,moonsawmy ,,& ,,! ,,madura ,,guide ,! ,madura temple is s rem>kable & is on su* a scale t ,i 0 anxi\s to get all ! in=mation ab\t x ,i c\ld4 ,mr ,pillai 7! guide7 0 v useful & well-in=m$1 & he gave u _m int]e/+ /ories & details ab\t ! sculptur$ figures & pa9t+s4 ,!re are f\r great pagoda-gates1 ri*ly c>v$ & pa9t$1 ( ! same type b l>g] ?an ^? at ,tanjore & ,tri*9opoly4 ,evid5tly ! ,h9dus _h no scruples ab\t col\r+ _! sculpture1 & ! col\r+ has be5 r5ew$ f "t to "t4 ,! prevail+ t9ts us$ are turquoise blue1 v]milion1 yell[1 :ite1 & gre54 ,"o ( ! gates ! guide po9t$ out 0 granite up to ! fir/ /ory1 & ! figures 7 9 /ucco above4 ,! f\r gates m5tion$ are connect$ by a high wall1 on ! cre/ ( :i* occur at int]vals ! image ( ,siva 7to :om ! temple is d$icat$7 seat$ betwe5 two bulls1 ! bulls be+ plac$ ^u ! top ( ! wall1 & ! image ( ! ,god 9 a sort ( ar*$ recess1 sunk into x a little bel[4 ,! upp] "p ( ! wall is uncol\r$1 b a sort ( high dado is c>ri$ along x bel[1 pa9t$ 9 broad v]tical /ripes ( r$ & :ite :i* seems a fav\rite s*eme ( decoration 9 ,s\!rn ,india4 ,! wall encloses a broad pav$ c\rt1 & inside ?is is ano!r wall ) gates1 ?r\gh :i* ! v>i\s temples & column$ halls are ent]$4 ,9 ! c5tre ( all is ! sacr$ tank1 a l>ge pool ( wat] surr\nd$ by /eps1 & an arcade ( :ite columns4 ,z we approa*$ ?is1 we saw a cr[d ( natives1 m5 & wom51 seat$ on ! pav$ m>g9 ( ! tank along "o side & betwe5 ! columns li/5+ to a prie/ :o 0 prea*+ ) mu* e>ne/ness4 ,our guide said he 0 translat+ or exp\nd+ 7"o did n "k ) :at gloss7 passages f ! sanskrit text ( ! sacr$ books :i* ano!r prie/ previ\sly read 9 ! orig9al4 ,! sc5e 0 a picturesque "o4 ,! v>i\s col\rs ( ! p's dresses1 9 :i* d>k r$ prevail$1 %[$ aga9/ ! :ite wall & columns1 & ! br[n faces made a h>moni\s s*eme ( col\r4 ,! wall along ! upp] "p 0 pa9t$ ) a s]ies ( hi/ories ( ,siva & 8 inc>nations4 ,^! picture-/ories 7 arrang$ 9 ti]s or friezes1 ab\t f\r or five deep1 "o above ! o!r1 & runn+ ! entire l5g? ( ! wall beh9d ! colonade1 ea* side ! tank4 ,^! pa9t+s 7 highly int]e/+1 pa9t$ probably ) ! ma9 object ( mak+ ! /ories intelligible to ! p1 !y 7 q decorative1 full ( detail1 & =m+ a r closely fill$ & d>k patt]n ( col\r1 hav+ ! effect ( a wov5 hang+4 ,"o ( ! pa9t$ leg5ds treat$ ( a c]ta9 ,mah>ajah :o appe>s to h p]secut$ ! e>ly ,ja9 sec$]s1 mu* z ! ,roman emp]or treat$ ! e>ly ,*ri/ians1 ) great f]ocity1 f9ally impal+ !m on /akes1 & ?us !y 7 pa9t$ all ( a r[6 ,! ,ja9 sect 0 at fir/ app>5tly reg>d$ z a s*ism1 & ! ,ja9s z h]etics or apo/ates fall+ away f ! pure ,h9du wor%ip ( ,siva4 ,"o seems "h1 9 ?is great ,temple ( ,madura1 to get back to ! mo/ anci5t type ( religion1 & "o :i*1 aft] all1 all[+ = evolution 9 our ideas1 seems ! mo/ la/+--,nature wor%ip4 ,! ,h9dus 9 _! pan!on include & embrace ev]y?+1 at lea/ 9 _! own univ]se1 :i* is _! own c\ntry1 & to !m1 truly1 8no?+ is common or unclean40 ,_! deities inc>nate !mselves 9 all sorts ( =ms4 ,siva1 accord+ to "o leg5d1 = in/ance1 ev5 tak+ ! =m ( a wild s[1 & suckl+ ! "y ( ! "m :i* _h be5 sla9 by ! hunt]s4 ,! second son ( ,siva rides ^u a peacock1 ! repres5tative bird ( ,india4 ,! ,zebu bull is sacr$ to ,siva1 & 9 ! ,l+am is symbolis$ & rev]$ ! male & female pr9ciple ( g5]ation1 ! root & s\rce ( all life on ! e>?4 ,9 "o place 9 ! temple1 betwe5 two ( ! columns1 0 a gr\p ( ! n9e planets p]sonifi$ & plac$ ar\nd ! sun--a gold5 sph]e 9 ! c5tre4 ,= ea* ( ^! embodi$ planets might be f\nd a correspond+ p]sonality among ! deities ( ! classical _w4 ,ano!r /rik+ ?+ ab\t ! ,madura temple is ! =ce ( realization & expression 9 ! figure sculpture4 ,life-siz$ figures ( diff]5t gods & demons are c>v$ 9 /one 9 front ( ! columns 9 _m ( ! halls ( ! temple1 ! columns !mselves frequ5tly :ite-wa%$1 :ile ! figures are left 9 ! unt\*$ /one & look 9 contra/ l bronze figures1 _! elaborate detail & und]cutt+ emphasiz+ ?is sugge/ion4 ,inde$1 ! v>iety ( "*1 inv5tion1 z well z ! vig\r & fre$om1 gov]n$ by a c]ta9 =malism1 ( "s ( ?is sculpture at its be/ rem9ds "o ( ,european go?ic sculpture 9 ! ,middle ,ages1 n only 9 its symbolical & leg5d>y aspect1 b also its all embrac+ "* & sympa?y ) ! life ( ! p4 ,! type ( ! ,h9du "m appe>s1 = in/ance1 9 "o ( ! be/ ( ! figures c>ry+ h] *ild on h] hip1 j z ! native wom5 d to ?is day1 :ile a suckl+ infant is susp5d$ at h] brea/4 ,mock]y1 if n hum\r1 too1 seems to come out "h & !re sometimes1 z 9 ! danc+ figure ( a mock+ musician play+ on 8 pipes4 ,a frequ5t subject is ,siva pres5t+ 8 si/] 9 m>riage to ,vi%nu1 & !re are besides a numb] ( curi\s leg5ds connect$ ) ! sculptures "h1 :i* are v v>i\s1 &1 ( c\rse1 n unfrequ5tly become grotesque or mon/r\s "u ! influ5ce ( ! ,h9du religi\s symbolic ideas & ! ,h9du inv5tiv5ess2 b "o feels t "h is a g5u9e piece ( anci5t life1 express$ 9 ! =ms ( ,h9du art--frank nature wor%ip 9 full vig\r ( life1 & a dom9ant influ5ce 9 ! lives ( millions ( p4 ,9 ! sacr$ tank ! p 7 con/antly ba?+ & wa%+ _! clo!s4 ,! wat] nev] seems to be *ang$ & is p]fectly gre5 9 col\r4 ,our guide said x rema9$ pure & ord]$ a man to %[ its quality by dipp+ 8 h&s 9 & hold+ a small quantity 9 !m1 cupwise4 ,! wat]1 h[ev]1 01 ev5 9 ?is small quantity1 q gre51 al?\gh a cle> gre54 ,x mu/ h be5 full ( vegetable matt]1 "o w\ld ?9k4 ,x rem9d$ u ( :at ! ,mah>ajah's secret>y _h said ( ! ,ganges wat] at ,b5>es4 ,! col\r+ ( ! int]ior ( ! ,temple 9 p>ts recall$ ! mural decoration ( anci5t ,egypt 9 its use ( simple prim>y col\rs--r$1 gre51 :ite1 & yell[ prevail+4 ,! lotus fl[]1 too1 0 con/antly introduc$1 treat$ z a rosette ^u ! ceil+s4 ,"s ( ! pill>$ halls 71 h[ev]1 left 9 pla9 /onework1 or simply :itewa%$4 ,"o long hall we ent]$ look$ v impressive 9 ! dim light1 a s+le ray f ! sun p5etrat+1 & mak+ a spot ( int5se light ^u ! floor4 ,we saw a gild$ copp] dome1 & a gold5 flag /aff1 & our guide po9t$ out ! great doors beh9d :i* ! fe/ival c>s 7 kept1 & we saw1 too1 wond]fully decorat$ life-siz$ images ( elephants & horses :i* =m$ "p ( ! %[ on great occasions4 ,!re 7 two black & two :ite elephants1 /&+ betwe5 ! columns1 "u r tawdry & t9selly canopies1 & o!r furniture ( ! fe/ivals2 "o l>ge hang+ be>+ ! words ( welcome to ! ,pr9ce & ,pr9cess ( ,wales1 :i* mu/ h be5 us$ = ! occasion ( _! visit4 ,v>i\s donors ( p>ts ( ! temple 7 po9t$ out1 9 effigy4 ,! ,cz> ( ,russia appe>$ 7n h[ev] 9 p]son7 z ! donor ( c]ta9 %r9es & a brass canopy or ar* :i* held _m lamps4 ,illu/ration3 ,,sacr$ ,,tank ,,( ,,! ,,great ,,temple1 ,,madura ,! practice ( draw+ ! image ( ! god on fe/ival days ?r\gh ! /reets on great c>s seems g5]al at all ! *ief temples 9 ,s\!rn ,india1 & n conf9$ to ,jugg]na?4 ,at ,s]+ham we saw ! great c> on :i* ! image ( ,siva 0 drawn on su* occasions1 & also ! ?ick cables--l %ip's cables--:i* 7 us$ = ! purpose--multitudes ( m5 haul+ ! c> out ( ! temple & along ! /reets by ^! means4 ,"h1 too1 at ,madura ! god ,siva is repres5t$ seat$ ^u 8 c> :i* is treat$ z a k9d ( ?rone1 ! :eels & ! horses sculptur$ at ! sides 9 a symbolic sort ( way4 ,9 "s ( ! pa9t$ hi/ories on ! walls1 ,siva is %[n 9 a w+$ c> 7sugge/+ 8 rapid flight & omnipres5ce1 p]haps7 &1 presumably1 8 image is drawn out on a c> at fe/ivals to keep 8 pres5ce & mov+ influ5ce vividly 9 ! m9ds ( 8 wor%ipp]s4 ,x 0 curi\s to see ! baza>s 9 ! corridors & out] c\rts ( ! temple4 ,r[s ( /alls1 :]e all sorts ( miscellane\s ?+s 7 sold--brass w>e1 pott]y1 wov5 /uffs1 beads1 & all k9ds ( knick-knacks & toys4 ,"s ( ! sell]s squat on ! pavem5t & spread out _! goods be=e !m4 ,! temple & its c\rts is a great resort ( ! p1 9 fact4 ,pilgrims lie d[n & sleep ne> its %r9es1 & ! *ildr5 play freely betwe5 its pill>s4 ,bats flutt] 9 & out ( ! crevices ( ! ceil+s1 or hang 9 little black clu/]s up al(t 9 _! recesses4 ,9 sket*+ at ! sacr$ tank a v l>ge cr[d ( natives gradually collect$ beh9d me1 & on ea* side1 & x 0 z mu* z ! guide c\ld d to keep !m f clos+ 91 & completely surr\nd+ me4 ,"s ,am]ican visitors to ! temple :om we met aft]w>ds 9 ,ceylon said t1 see+ ?is va/ conc\rse press+ r\nd ! tank1 !y ?\ght x 0 a suicide6 ,travell]s usually take snap-%ots ) h& cam]as1 & ,i imag9e t a sket*] 9 col\rs is comp>atively r>e4 ,! cr[d1 h[ev]1 7 q quiet4 ,! guide 0 enc\rag+1 & rem>k$ :5 ,i _h f9i%$ t x 0 8bett] ?an a photograph40 ,ano!r aft]noon we drove out ?r\gh ! city & "s ?ree miles beyond to see ! 8,teppa ,tank0--a l>ge %eet ( wat]1 enclos$ by a l[ wall pa9t$ 9 r$ & :ite /ripes1 ) /eps to ! wat] & c>v$ bulls decorat+ ! balu/rades4 ,on an isl& 9 ! c5tre ( ! tank rose ! pagoda ( a temple1 9 /ucco1 & f\r small pagodas at ! f\r corn]s ( ! g>d5-isl&--a mass ( foliage amid :i* ! pagodas %one1 ivory-:ite 9 ! sun%9e4 ,ne> ?is tank on ! roadside 0 ano!r temple sacr$ to a goddess :o 0 ! object ( solicitude 9 ! case ( p desir+ (fspr+1 & to :om votive (f]+s ( cradles 7 made by ! devotees1 z well z doll-l images ( *ildr5 made ( bak$ clay & pa9t$4 ,! flat ro( ( ?is temple 0 peopl$ ) a cr[d ( ^! grotesque images1 & ! c>riage boy 0 s5t to fet* "o = our inspection4 ,!n we drove on to :]e grew a gigantic ,banyan tree--eighty feet 9 gir?1 & hav+ q a small =e/ ar\nd its c5tral va/ trunk ( (f%oots--new trees :i* _h root$ !mselves 9 ! e>? f ! p>5t bran*es4 ,x 0 r sugge/ive ( a _m pill>$ sylvan temple4 ,aft] ?is we rea*$ ! ,palace ( ,tiramala1 :i* /ood at ! head ( a l>ge village--an impos+ /ructure 9 /ucco1 mo/ly yell[ wa%$4 ,! enorm\s columns ( ! c\rt look$ out ( proportion to ! ar*es !y support$1 :i* 7 ( a r debas$ ,mogul type1 heavy ) v elaborate grotesque ornam5tation 9 /ucco 9 ! sp&rils & on ! ceil+s1 _m ( :i* _h z a c5tral device a l>ge lotus fl[] =mally treat$ z a rosette1 & 9 "s in/ances elaborately pa9t$4 ,! effect ( ! :ole build+ 0 r weird1 & sugge/$ a r que] ar*itectural nightm>e1 9 :i* massive ,norman ca!dral pi]s _h swall[$ ,roman ,doric ones1 or vice v]sa1 & a ,h9du modell] _h brok5 up "s ,mogul ar*es1 & fa/5$ !m toge!r aga9 ) grotesque elephants & dragons' tee?4 ,! palace 0 n[ us$ z law c\rts1 & x 0 curi\s to see two mod]n oil portraits ( two neat ,engli% lawy]s hang+ on ! walls ( ^! va/ column$ halls4 ,we next visit$ a native %op 9 ! village baza> :]e ! f9e musl9s & silks ( ! di/rict 7 made & sold4 ,we 7 duly seat$ 9 *airs & fann$ by boys1 :ile an active br[n memb] ( ! firm unfold$ tempt+ s>is1 pug>ees1 & silk /uffs1 "s beautifully brocad$ ) gold ?read1 & ( c\rse we possess$ ourselves ( a few specim5s4 ,9 ?is di/rict !re is a ?riv+ native silk indu/ry1 h&-weav+1 also dye+1 & ! +5i\s native craft ( mak+ patt]ns on cottons & musl9s by ty+ & dipp+4 ,hanks ( cotton & silk may be se5 hung out ov] bamboo poles plac$ horizontally1 & ox-c>ts roll by fill$ ) ! dy$ ske9s4 ,!re is a f9e d>k ri* r$1 frequ5tly se5 9 ! s>i dress ( ! wom51 also a d>k purple4 ,! wom5 "h g5]ally we> ! d>k r$ s>i ) a n>r[ bord] ( black2 9 "s cases ! s>i is black ) a r$ bord]4 ,9 ! village /reet we saw a little native bride drawn 9 a c>riage4 ,return+ to ! city 9 ! cool ( ! ev5+ we /opp$ at ! temple baza> & b\ght "s zebu bells--curi\s little pe>-%ap$ brass bells1 ea* ) a diff]5t tone1 :i* are hung r\nd ! animals' necks4 ,_! =eheads1 too1 are frequ5tly b\nd ) /r+s ( beads1 or %ells fix$ on lea!r b&s1 & _! horns are pa9t$ gre5 or r$4 ,!re is a me?od ( decorat+ ! c5tres ( ! d9+ tables 9 ,s\!rn ,india :i*1 ,i ?9k1 we fir/ notic$ at ! hotel at ,madras1 or at "o ( ! refre%m5t /ations on ! ,corom&el coa/4 ,x consi/s 9 arrang+ dy$ sago se$s 9 patt]ns =m+ a table c5tre on ! :ite clo?4 ,at ! /ation refre%m5t room at ,madura !re 0 a m elaborate example done by means ( /5cils--a bord] ( yell[ enclos$ a lightly p[d]$ fill+1 & an effective out] bord] 0 produc$ by a repeat$ sprig ( a r$ rose ) gre5 leaves4 ,! g5]al effect 0 t ( an embroid]$ patt]n1 b ( c\rse x 0 liable to slight displacem5ts1 & 0 con/antly done afre%1 "o ( ! wait]s be+ ! special arti/4 ,we left ,madura on ! #ae? ( ,febru>y = ,tuticor94 ,illu/ration3 ,,tuticor94 ,,dep>ture ,,= ,,colombo4 ,,! ,,la/ ,,( ,,! ,,kites ,,& ,,cr[s4 ,! c\ntry trav]s$ 0 flat & pla9 = ! mo/ "p1 ) cultivat$ crops ( ca/or oil plants1 paddy1 & corn1 alt]nat+ ) jungle ( bru%wood1 b no f9e trees4 ,hills 7 se5 9 ! di/ance on ! "r1 & we made sev]al /oppages at %ort places ) v long names4 ,arriv+ at ,tuticor9 ab\t f\r 9 ! aft]noon1 we w5t on to ! bea* /ation1 & got on bo>d a small /eam laun* or tug 9 wait+ at ! jetty1 !n we saw ! la/ qu>t]1 z x 71 ( our ,moonsawmy1 & took our leave ( him1 aft] he _h _h 8 usual fi]ce dispute ) ! coolies1 :o c]ta9ly nev] receiv$ trade union wages f him4 ,on ! :ole we 7 n sorry to get away f ! rupee-hunt+ ?rong :i* usually hang ab\t /ations & :>ves--! kites & cr[s 9 pursuit ( ! travell]1 _! prey1 :o = ! "t be+1 at lea/1 n[ escap$ _! clut*es4 ,tuticor9 pres5t$ no obvi\s attractions except ! sea1 :i* we 7 q glad to meet aga94 ,! laun* seem$ j l>ge en\gh to hold ! tra9-load ( pass5g]s--,am]icans1 ,g]mans1 & ,engli% ) _! baggage1 & aft] ab\t half-an-h\r's /eam across ! h>b\r we rea*$ ! /eam] 7! 8,p&ua0 ( ,glasg[7 & climb$ up ! gangway to ! saloon deck4 ,we secur$ a r small b well-appo9t$ b]? op5+ (f ! saloon1 & 7 able to enjoy a well-s]v$ d9n]--food seems g5]ally bett] on %ip-bo>d ?an on l&--at lea/ ,indian l&4 ,c>go boats 7 cl++ to ! /eam]'s side1 &1 at sunset1 "o by "o ca/ (f & hoi/$ _! late5 sails 7l ^? ( an ,arab dh[7 ea* boat hav+ "o ab\t ! l5g? ( ! vessel4 ,! sailors 9 hoi/+ up ! sail climb$ & clung to ! rope1 to br+ x up ) _! weight4 ,*ant+ a curi\s sort ( song ! :ile1 our /eam] weigh$ an*or & />t$1 & we look$ a/]n & saw ! la/ ( ,india fad+ f view beh9d ! %9+ wake ( ! /eam]1 & lo/ 9 ! gl[ ( an orange sunset4 ,,*apt] ,,xv ,,notes ,,( ,,ceylon ,! voyage across ! /raits to ,colombo prov$ to be wond]fully calm1 :i* 0 r unusual z we und]/ood x 0 z a rule tempe/u\s1 & we did n f9d our cab9 ne>ly s hot z our room at ,madura4 ,we sight$ ! coa/ ( ,ceylon e>ly 9 ! morn+ ( ,febru>y #af1 & got into h>b\r at ,colombo ab\t #h ,a4,m4 ,a fleet ( fi%+ boats _h previ\sly pass$ u1 ( ! curi\s native rig--a squ>e sail app>5tly arrang$ to sail be=e ! w9d only4 ,our /eam] 0 soon surr\nd$ by a little fleet ( odd %ap$ outrigg] canoes1 "s ( !m m]e planks1 paddl$ by active little d>kie boys1 :o div$ = small silv] co9s if !y c\ld induce ! pass5g]s to ?r[ !m4 ,^! little amphibians seem$ z mu* at home 9 ! wat] z 9 _! canoes1 & !y swam l fi%es4 ,our good fri5d ,mr ,bois s5t a mess5g] on bo>d to meet u & help u ?r\gh ! cu/oms1 hav+ secur$ u rooms at ! ,galle ,face4 ,mo/ ?+s are *>geable "u ! t>iff1 b ! travell] pays duty on 8 own valuation4 ,! /eam] did n l& its pass5g]s at ! quay1 b an*or$ 9 ! h>b\r1 & ev]yone l&$ 9 boats4 ,! ,hotel boats1 mann$ by native o>sm51 r[ swiftly to ! ,cu/om ,h\se1 & (t5 race ea* o!r4 ,aft] pass+ ! cu/oms we got into a little ,victoria & drove /raight to ! ,galle ,face4 ,illu/ration3 ,,l&+ ,,at ,,colombo ,n mu* c be said = ! ar*itectural beauty ( ,colombo1 ! build+s be+1 g5]ally speak+1 ( ord9>y comm]cial type4 ,! ,gr& ,ori5tal ,hotel1 or ,g4,o4,h4 z x is commonly call$1 is a big pile ne> ! h>b\r1 & has an arcade surr\nd+ ! gr\nd /ory1 l mo/ ( ! /ores1 & cont9u\s balconies above1 p>tition$ (f accord+ to ! rooms :i* op5 on to !m4 ,"h & !re !re is a relic ( ! ,dut* occupation 9 "s ( ! frontages ) r\nd recess$ ar*es & pila/]s4 ,! ,gov]nor's h\se1 z usual1 is ! mo/ attractive look+ build+1 half hidd5 amid/ masses ( palms & o!r trees4 ,a r bold clock t[] faces a long esplanade1 :i* ext5ds = ne>ly half a mile along ! sea front1 at ! end ( :i* is situat$ ! ,galle ,face ,hotel1 ) its clu/] ( sl5d]-/emm$ cocoa palms lean+ ov] ! sea4 ,"h1 ! long ocean break]s roll+ 91 ! turquoise waves melt+ into dazzl+ foam1 se5 ?r\gh ! palm trees has an en*ant+ effect1 bo? 9 ! sunlight & ! moonlight4 ,!re 0 a "y cresc5t at night--se51 z only se5 9 ! ,ea/1 on its back--float+ l a fairy boat1 & ca/+ a my/]i\s light ov] ! d>k ocean1 ! wav+ palms ov]head & ! s\nd ( ! break+ waves add+ to ! wond]ful *>m ( ! sc5e4 ,j9-rick%aws 7 9 great reque/1 b ! supply seem$ fully equal to ! dem&1 & ! esplanade 0 always full ( ! trott+ boys draw+ :ite clad ,europeans 9 topis up & d[n ! t]ra-cotta col\r$ road4 ,!re 0 a wide1 gre5 /rip ext5d+ along ! drive1 & on ! o!r side ( ! suburbs ( ,colombo ext5d$ nor?w>ds1 *iefly native h\ses1 & bungal[s ( ,european resid5ts (t5 enclos$ 9 g>d5s & hidd5 9 ample foliage ( trees4 ,illu/ration3 ,,"u ,,! ,,palms ,,at ,,! ,,galle ,,face1 ,,ceylon ,! hotel 0 s]v$ by an army ( ,c+alese wait]s :o wore _! hair mu* l ! s\!rn ,indians--long1 l a woman's1 & done up 9 a knot at ! back1 _! peculi> di/9ction1 h[ev]1 be+ a semicircul> comb ( tortoise-%ell worn l a coronet on ! top ( ! head1 b ) ! op5 po9ts 9 front4 ,o!rwise _! co/ume consi/$ ( a close :ite skirt1 & a neat :ite jacket ) gre5 fac+s4 ,_! feet 7 always b>e1 l ! ,indian boys4 ,illu/ration3 ,,common ,,objects ,,( ,,colombo4 7,,j9-,,rick%awus ,,bip$es7 ,!re 0 a b& at d9n]1 s]v$ 9 a va/ :ite hall1 & aft]1 on ! t]race1 :5 ! gue/s w\ld sit out among ! palms light$ up by jewels ( electric light4 ,! :ite break]s foam+ "u ! moon1 ! %ad[y wav+ palms1 ! sky fla%+ ) %eet lightn+1 ! brilliantly light$ hotel1 & ! :ite figures flitt+ ab\t 8among ! gue/s />-scatt]$ on ! grass10 all contribut$ to a /rik+ /age effect4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,c+alese ,,wait] ,! hotel 0 c]ta9ly spaci\s & well appo9t$1 hav+ l>ge cool corridors & rooms to sit 9--comp>atively cool t is to say1 & )\t ! gloom ( s _m ( ! ,indian hotels4 ,9 ! matt] ( food1 cook]y1 & ! s]vice too1 x 0 a great improvem5t on ! ,p59sula4 ,!re 7 electric fans ev]y:]e 9 motion1 & we c\ld always turn "o on 9 our room--:i* 0 normally an ov54 ,! draft f ^! fans1 h[ev]1 are said to be apt to give p *ills1 & "s caution 9 _! use 9 b$rooms is necess>y4 ,we visit$ our fri5ds 9 _! *>m+ h\se--"o ( ! old] /yle ( ,colombo dwell+s1 9 a delightful g>d5 :]e aft]noon tea 0 s]v$ on a pleasant lawn %ad$ by f9e trees1 among :i* we recognis$ ! =e/ flame1 :i* ) its wond]ful sc>let blossoms _h /ruck u on ! way to ,d>jeel+1 ?\gh n !n 9 fl[] "h4 ,ano!r day ,mr ,bois took u out = a drive 9 8 motor all ar\nd ,colombo & its neighb\rhood4 ,we w5t ?r\gh ! t[n & along by ! dry dock1 & ?r\gh ! native qu>t] 7,zeppa or ,teppa7 & away ?r\gh n>r[ lanes %ad$ by cocoa palms1 planta9s1 banyans1 mangoes & o!r trees gr[+ ) tropical luxuriance ea* side ! way1 9 plantations1 & ar\nd ! bungal[s4 ,! motor seem$ a /range vehicle 9 ! mid/ ( ! primitive life ( ! ,c+alese2 & x is said t extremes meet1 & c]ta9ly a motor & a primitive ox-wagon repres5t ab\t ! greate/ contra/ 9 means ( locomotion & transport t "o c well imag9e4 ,x 0 r wond]ful t we escap$ a collision sometimes meet+ su* vehicles 9 ! n>r[ lanes1 or t we avoid$ runn+ ov] /ray *ick5s or dogs--! latt] k9d always res5t+ ! motor & imp]ill+ _! lives by runn+ & b>k+ 9 close proximity ) ! enemy4 ,! natives we met walk+1 too1 7 by no means al]t 9 gett+ out ( ! way1 & did n seem to realise ! dang]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,ceylon--,,extremes ,,meet--,,! ,,motor ,,& ,,! ,,ox-,,c>t ,we pass$ mission h\ses & *ur*es ( all sorts1 & ( e %ade ( !ological col\r--,wesleyans1 ,roman ,ca?olics1 & ,salvation ,army--all ! plagues ( sect>ian ,*ri/ianity :i* afflict humanity 9 ,europe1 alas6 ,our fri5d said1 propos ( "s rem>ks ( m9e ab\t ! ignorance & indiff]5ce ( mission>ies z to native religions & _! natural suitability to ! races1 & _! habits ( life & ! climates :]e !y are f\nd1 t he _h caution$ mission>ies aga9/ runn+ d[n ! native religion4 ,?is 9 ,ceylon1 is ma9ly ,buddhi/ 7& ,buddha surely discov]$ some?+ analog\s to ,*ri/ian e?ics1 if n sup]ior1 long be=e ,*ri/74 ,! ,tamils are ,buddhi/s1 b !re are "s ,h9dus & ,mohamm$ans 9 ,ceylon1 & ev5 pure ,buddhism is m+l$ 9 "s curi\s way ) a primitive devil-wor%ip4 ,we saw ! golf l9ks & a golf club h\se--q la ,anglaise--on a ris+ gr\nd & b>e ( trees1 = a wond] 9 ,ceylon4 ,x appe>$ t ^! l9ks occupi$ ! site ( a f>m :i* did n succe$4 ,!n we saw ! riv]1 :]e an eng9e]'s iron bridge _h tak5 ! place ( a =m] bridge ( boats4 ,colombo mu/ h l>gely lo/ its primitive & ,dut* "* :5 ! old ,=t 0 de/roy$4 ,?is has be5 replac$ by t]ribly ugly ,b>rack build+s1 & ! t[n is rapidly becom+ a mod]n comm]cial c5tre1 big w>eh\ses & univ]sal provid]'s /ores are ris+ up aft] ! ,european or ,am]ican type4 ,! native "*1 h[ev]1 manife/s itself /ill1 peep+ out "h & !re1 especially 9 ! old] %ops1 & !re is m native co/ume to be se5 ?an "o _h imag9$4 ,! c\ntry ox-c>t is a /rik+ object ) its huge tilt ( matt+ project+ =w>d & backw>d l a hood1 ! s+le zebu by :i* x is usually drawn appe>+ small = ! size ( ! vehicle4 ,we did n see _m native wom5 ab\t1 b ^? we did see wore ! native dress1 consi/+ ( a :ite bodice1 cut r\nd & r l[ 9 ! neck1 ) a lace edg+2 a necklace & e>r+s1 & ! n>r[ skirt wrapp$ ab\t ! l[] half ( ! figure to ! feet g5]ally pr9t$ ) a patt]n1 or *equ]$1 simil> to t worn by ! m54 ,we drove r\nd by ! ,c9namon g>d5s1 & re/$ at a club h\se--a mix$ ,european ,club--a pleasant h\se ) a l>ge & well-kept croquet lawn 9 front :]e ladies 7 play+4 ,we sat a :ile1 aft] be+ refre%$ & mak+ "s new acqua9tances1 we return$ 9 ! motor to our hotel4 ,we _h ?und] & lightn+ at night4 ,! lightn+ fla%+ almo/ incessantly all ov] ! heav5s1 b mo/ly f great cl\ds roll+ up f ! nor? & ea/4 ,:ile sitt+ at tea 9 ! hall ( ! ,galle ,face "o aft]noon we met an old fri5d 9 ! p]son ( ,mr ,cyril ,holman ,hunt1 ! son ( ! fam\s pre-,raphaelite pa9t]1 :o _h be5 a plant] = "s ye>s1 fir/ 9 ,ceylon & aft]w>ds 9 ! ,/raits1 f :i* he _h j arriv$4 ,s t x 0 q a *ance our meet+1 z he 0 n ev5 /ay+ at ! same hotel4 ,! same ev5+ ! (fic]s ( ! ,italian w>%ip ,m>co ,polo 7 ent]ta9$ at d9n] at ! ,galle ,face1 & _! b& play$ selections aft]w>ds4 ,! sc5e 9 ! hall ( a ,colombo hotel is always busy1 b 9 a diff]5t way to a ,european ho/elry--"o might almo/ say x 0 fev]i% ha/e 9 ! mid/ ( languid indol5ce--a ballet ( en]getic action be=e a cr[d ( unconc]n$ spectators4 ,:ile "s are 9 ! fuss ( dep>ture or arrival1 r[s ( en]vat$ travell]s l\nge 9 wick] *airs1 read+1 *att+1 smok+1 or engag$ ) tea or cool+ dr9ks1 mo/ly attir$ 9 :ite2 _m ( ! ladies 9 delicate summ] dresses1 ! m5 9 :ite drill or tussore suits4 ,all nationalities are repres5t$1 ! majority ,am]ican1 & mo/ly p wait+ = _! /eam]s outw>d or homew>d4 ,mo/ visitors to ,ceylon make a trip to ,k&y1 & "o morn+ e>ly saw u on our way ?i!r4 ,! railway c>riages are good & com=table1 b !y d n all[ ! /ack+ ( h& luggage 9 !m z !y d to su* an ext5t on ! ,indian railways4 ,! tra9 pass$ ?r\gh a v ri* & fruitful-look+ c\ntry1 :]e ! paddy crops 9 diff]5t /ages--"u wat]1 gre5 & ripe or be+ reap$ & ?ra%$--rem9d$ u ( ,india4 ,! fields 7 g5]ally surr\nd$ by groves ( planta9s & palms4 ,! vegetation be+ mo/ luxuriant ev]y:]e3 banyans1 mangoes1 & fl[]+ trees ( diff]5t k9ds includ+ spireas & ! 8=e/ flame0 we saw at ,d>jeel+2 tangl$ masses ( creep]s hang+ f ! b\ghs1 & (t5 cov]+ ! :ole tree4 ,sev]al riv]s 7 cross$ ! r$ e>? %[+ on _! banks1 & ! wat] g5]ally t+$ ) ! same4 ,we rea*$ ,k&y ab\t #aa4ae1 ! tra9 asc5d+ to ?is place ab\t #ddjj feet4 ,! l9e curv+ up ! slopes s t we c\ld frequ5tly see ! eng9e & =ep>t ( ! tra9 r\nd+ ! loop 9 front ( u4 ,we c\ld only secure a room = "o night at ! hotel 7! ,que5's71 s t we _h to make ! mo/ ( our "t4 ,accord+ly1 aft] tiff91 we />t$ 9 a c>riage = :at ! hotel p prosaically call$ 8,no4 #b4 drive0 7674 ,skirt+ ! l>ge tank or lake 9 front ( ! hotel1 :i* has a solid /one palisad+ ar\nd x cut into po9ts & pi]c$1 we asc5d$ a /eep road1 w9d+ up ! hills ?r\gh lovely woodl&s1 at e turn pres5t+ f9e m\nta9\s & panoramic views ( ! c\ntry4 ,beautiful clu/]s ( bamboo ( enorm\s size occurr$ frequ5tly1 ! /ems v ?ick & ( an oxidiz$ bronze col\r1 v>y+ f d>k to light4 ,ano!r k9d _h bright gold5 col\r$ /ems1 & a light]1 m fea!ry foliage4 ,cocoa palms1 planta9s1 & mangoes 7 abundant1 also c9namon plants4 ,a native boy (f]$ u a cocoa bean pod1 & a spray ( c9namon--a pretty tree ) a tassel-l fl[]4 ,!re 7 also l>ge trees be>+ massive p5dul\s fruits1 :i* gr[ directly out ( ! trunk susp5d$ on v %ort /alks 9 clu/]s ( two & ?ree4 ,?is fruit 0 call$ 8,jack fruit40 ,x look$ l a sort ( gigantic walnut1 & 0 cov]$ ) a s(t gre5 velvety k9d ( r9d4 ,! leaves ( ?is tree 0 small & popl>-l 9 %ape4 ,! brilliant sc>let lily-l bloom ( a d>k leav$ %rub 0 (t5 se51 ! fl[] hav+ long /am5s hang+ out l a tassel4 ,! v>i\s drives :i* _h be5 made ov] ! hills & ?r\gh ^! great woods 7 app>5tly nam$ aft] diff]5t gov]nors' wives4 ,!re 0 ,lady ,longd5's drive1 ,lady ,mac>?y's1 ,lady ,horton's1 & s on4 ,we sometimes _h ! impression1 z ! c>riage foll[$ ! gravell$ curves ( ^! drives1 t we 7 approa*+ "s c\ntry seat among ! hills4 ,! drives1 ?\gh well plann$ = po9ts ( view1 & well kept1 71 p]haps1 a little too sugge/ive ( ! l&scape g>d5]1 a little too consci\s & laid out to ord]1 to be ?or\ghly enjoyable4 ,we %\ld h pref]r$ to see ! unt\*$ "w ( ! orig9al design] ( ,ceylon sc5]y4 ,! natural wild c\ntry unanglicis$--?\gh ,i "k ,i %\ld be told t )\t su* roads & cle>+s "o w\ld n be able to see ! c\ntry at all4 ,we ,briti%1 someh[1 always seem to c>ry suburban ideas ) u ev]y:]e1 & ,engli% trimness & neatness ev5 out into ! tropical wild]ness4 ,we pass$ neat homes surr\nd$ by smoo? t5nis & croquet lawns1 z if bits ( ,*iselhur/ or ,surbiton _h be5 sudd5ly dump$ d[n 9 ! mid/ ( all ?is wond]ful _w ( luxuriant gr[? & unfamili> trees1 & close to native huts ( ! mo/ primitive k9d4 ,! native ro( "h1 z at ,d>jeel+1 appe>$ to be ei!r ?at* or wood5 %+les1 & "h1 aga91 we 7 sorry to see corrugat$ iron creep into use ev]y:]e4 ,! mo/ primval sight we _h 0 p]haps t ( ! elephants ba?+ 9 ! riv]4 ,?is 0 at a spot close to a native village1 :]e we left our c>riage &1 walk+ ?r\gh a grove1 came out on ! riv] %ore :]e five or six black elephants--"o a l>ge "o ) f9e tusks--7 disport+ !mselves 9 ! wat]1 9 *>ge ( native att5dants1 roll+ ov] on _! sides & squirt+ ! wat] ov] !mselves by means ( _! trunks ) ! greate/ enjoym5t4 ,! wat] 0 r ?ick & r$di% 9 col\r f ! clay ( ! banks4 ,on ! way back to ! hotel we pass$ ! fam\s ,buddhi/ ,temple ( ! ,too? ) its pagoda-l ro(1 b x looks b an insignificant build+ to be ! c5tre ( ,buddhi/ic rev]5ce & tribute4 ,?is 0 a lovely moonlight night1 & ! walk by ! lake w\ld h be5 p]fect b = ! t\ts & v5dors ( all sorts ( ?+s t y d n want4 ,we left ,k&y ! next morn+ = ,nuw>a-,eliya2 our travell+ companions 7 two ,g]mans f ,b]l91 fa!r & son4 ,! tra9 cont9u$ to climb1 ! l9e curv+ m %>ply ?an be=e4 ,we saw "s f9e m\nta9 di/ances & ,adam's ,peak ris+ up af>1 & soon ent]$ a va/ tea-plant$ di/rict1 ! tea plants (t5 bord]+ ! railway l9e1 & cov]+ ! slopes ( ! hills :i* seem$ cov]$ ) a m or less regul> gre5 patt]n1 ! d>k velvety gre5 ( ! tea plants int]sect$ by ! light fea!ry foliage ( "y rubb]-trees1 plant$ 9 regul> r[s at int]vals 9 "s places4 ,! l&scape 0 v cle> & e detail %>ply def9$ 9 ! bright sunlight1 ) v little sugge/ion ( atmosph]e1 except = ! m\nta9 di/ances :i* 7 deep blue4 ,illu/ration3 ,,tea ,,plantation1 ,,ceylon 8,%e lik$ c(fee1 & ,i lik$ tea1 ,& t is ! reason we always agree60 ,9 ! aft]noon ab\t f\r or five o'clock we rea*$ ,nunnoya /ation1 :]e we _h to *ange into a n>r[-gauge tra9 to f9i% ! la/ "p ( ! j\rney to ,nuw>a-,eliya4 ,we cont9u$ to climb 9 %ort] & m loop-l curves1 be+ able (t5 to gaze d[n on ! l9e we _h j trav]s$ w9d+ bel[ l a glitt]+ s]p5t among ! wood$ hills & tea plantations4 ,tea ev]y:]e1 & n a drop to dr9k--yet sugge/+ pot5tially m ?an ! :ole _w c\ld consume4 ,some?+ aft] five f\nd u at ,nuw>a-,eliya :]e we got into a wagonette1 & a good pair ( greys br\ght u ?r\gh ! village to ! ,/ ,&rews ,hotel1 a v pleasant homelike place 9 a nice g>d5 & back$ by beautiful woods4 ,! orig9al h\se look$ z if x might h be5 a private resid5ce1 & !re 0 j a t\* ( ,rydal ,m\nt ab\t x & its situation1 at ! fir/ glance1 b a new w+ _h be5 add$ ) a t9-ro(1 & !re 0 a golf c\rse 9 ! valley j bel[4 ,! valley is v beautiful1 ) its ri*ly wood$ hills & a lake ) blue m\nta9\s di/ance4 ,delicate fea!ry1 asp5-l trees wave 9 ! s(t air1 & !re are numb]s ( firs & cypresses :i* give an ,italian t\* to ! l&scape1 b no palms4 ,9 fact1 ! :ole "* ( ! c\ntry is totally diff]5t f ,colombo & ,k&y4 ,! climate1 too1 is mu* cool]1 ! !rmomet] fall+ to #dj degrees at night1 or ev5 to fro/1 ?\gh ! sun is hot en\gh 9 ! middle ( ! day4 ,!re is a native baza>1 & an ,engli% qu>t] ) a r$ club h\se1 t5nis c\rts1 & a race-c\rse--( c\rse4 ,/ ,&rews1 h[ev]1 :]e we 7 qu>t]$1 0 q away by itself1 & 0 altoge!r p]haps ! pleasante/ place we _h /ay$ at ei!r 9 ,india or ,ceylon4 ,x 0 possible1 = "o ?+1 to walk out )\t be+ worri$ by guides & t\ts1 or to buy ?+s4 ,! climate 0 delightful aft] ! en]vat+ heat ( ,colombo1 & !re be+ h>dly any o!r gue/s ! quiet ( ! place 0 a great relief & v re/ful4 ,"o aft]noon we _h a walk up ! opposite hills1 ! track be+ mo/ly ?r\gh tea-plantations1 ) =e/ bits occasionally4 ,! tea tree left to itself app>5tly gr[s high on a /em1 hav+ a v /rik+ "* & %ape1 sugge/+ almo/ ! /one-p9e4 ,! small1 ?ick-/emm$1 closely-trimm$1 flat-head$ dw>f bu%es :i* are its *>act]i/ic =ms 9 ! tea plantations also h an int]e/+ effect 9 "s situations on ! hill-sides1 int]sect$ by w&]+ pa?s :]eon ! d>k natives move up & d[n4 ,! tea-plant has a leaf some:at ( ! "* ( a laurel or orange tree1 & its fl[] recalls t ( ! orange4 ,ceylon tea :5 made is ( a beautiful cle> orange col\r--,i mean :5 p\r$ f ! pot4 ,! ,hagdalla g>d5s1 f\nd$ by ! gov]nm5t 9 #ahfa1 well repay a visit1 & are deeply int]e/+ to anyone int]e/$ 9 ! flora ( ,ceylon4 ,x is a drive ( ab\t six miles2 pass+ ?r\gh ! native village1 & by ! ,engli% ,club & race-c\rse1 ! lake is skirt$1 & aft] t ! road takes ! "* r ( a m\nta9 pass1 & runs along ! edge ( a deep wood$ rav9e d[n :i* a rocky /ream tumbles into falls ov] b\ld]s4 ,!re 0 j a t\* ( a sort ( ,borr[dale1 translat$ into ,c+alee1 ab\t ?is "p ( ! drive4 ,! wild =e/ :i* clad ! hills ea* side ( ! valley 0 v diff]5t 9 "* & col\r to any?+ se5 9 ,europe1 ! trees %[$ ! mo/ lovely t9ts ( v>i$ bronze1 f pale gre5 to copp] r$4 ,! tea tree 0 abundant1 & ! rhodod5dron1 :i* "h is totally diff]5t 9 "* & g5]al %ape to ! cultivat$ %rub-l bu%es 9 ,engli% g>d5s4 ,"h x is a ?ick-/emm$ tree1 ) a rugg$ b>k1 & a bold irregul> outl9e ) r sp>se leavage & deep crimson fl[]s :i* gl[ spl5didly among ! d>k metallic gre5 ( ! leaves4 ,!re is a sort ( =mal grotesqu5ess ab\t ! tree1 too1 :i* is r ,*9ese4 ,on ! way ?r\gh ! rav9e1 at a solit>y spot bel[ ! road1 we saw a ,buddhi/ %r9e4 ,on a little plat=m surr\nd$ by a r\gh f5ce ( loose /ones1 & fac+ ! road1 0 a r[ ( c>v$ images1 9 "s d>k wood1 /&+ figures ( ,buddha4 ,9 front ( ?is rude /ructure we saw a native wor%ipp] pro/rat+ himself on ! edge ( ! road1 & b[+ & b5d+ t[>ds ! %r9e4 ,! ,magdalla g>d5s are botanic & horticultural g>d5s laid out ) great c>e & skill on ! slope ( a m\nta94 ,!y app>5tly conta9 all ! v>ieties ( trees & plants indig5\s to ,ceylon4 ,tree f]ns are !re 9 abundance1 fl[]+ trees ( _m k9ds1 & p>asitic plants1 & or*ids 9 great v>iety1 gr[+ 9 _! natural mann]4 ,z "o ?reads ! n>r[ w&]+ pa?s x is z if "o pass$ ?r\gh a ?ick jungle or tropical =e/1 only t ! walk+ is made easy1 & botanical labels "h & !re1 & signs ( g>d5]'s c>e & lab\r1 rem9d "o x is a g>d54 ,!re is a keep]'s lodge1 9 ?is ,c+alese p>adise1 cov]$ ) creep]s1 & a =mal level p>t]re 9 front1 "o mass ( brilliant floral col\r--,african m>igolds1 fu*sias1 poppies1 blue c5tr$ daisies1 sunfl[]s1 blue convolvulus1 ,am>yllis1 & :ite eu*>is lilies1 can>y5sis1 polyan?us & _m m2 "s t might be f\nd 9 ,engli% g>d5s & hot-h\ses1 ) o!r tropical wond]s only se5 at ,kew4 ,aft] a ramble "h we return$ to ! c>riage1 & drove back ?r\gh ! n[ burn+ sun4 ,gorse gr[s ab\t ! l9ks & op5 common-l gr\nd 9 ! valley at ,nuw>a-,eliya1 ?\gh ! bu%es seem to gr[ r tall] & /raight] ?an !y d 9 ,engl&4 ,in/ead ( our lords & ladies1 arum lilies gr[ wild4 ,great clu/]s ( !m may be se5 by ! sides ( /reams or 9 m>%y places4 ,! woods 7 delightful to w&] 91 & altoge!r ,nuw>a-,eliya might make good claims to be an e>?ly p>adise1 o!r ?+s be+ equal4 ,we _h tak5 our passage1 h[ev]1 f ,colombo1 & 7 due to sail = home on ! #bnd ( ,m>*4 ,x 0 n[ ! #bh? ( ,febru>y1 & we _h to make our way back aga91 desc5d+ f ,il ,p>adiso to a c]ta9ly hott] region4 ,! desc5t by ! n>r[ gauge railway 0 ev5 m /rik+ ?an ! asc5t1 ! tra9 pass+ ?r\gh luxuriant gr[?s ( =e/ 9 :i* tree-f]ns1 rhodod5drons1 ! tea tree1 & :at look$ l a sort ( box tree 7 abundant4 ,! rubb]-trade 9 ,ceylon is n[ be+ add$ to ! tree-trade1 :i*1 accord+ to our competitive wa/eful individuali/ic sy/em1 has some:at outgr[n its pr(itable m>ket4 ,"o effect ( ?is new developm5t ^u ! l&scape is deva/ation1 z l>ge tracts ( wild =e/ on ! m\nta9 sides are be+ cle>$ by burn+ ! natural gr[? 9 ! fir/ place1 & !n remov+ ! /ones & b\ld]s :i* cumb] ! gr\nd4 ,?is process does n add to ! beauty ( ! sc5]y1 nor c we expect t monoton\s plantations w be good sub/itutes to ! eye = ! wild beauty & v>i$ & luxuriant vegetation !y displace4 ,! ,engli%man 9 ,ceylon seems to ?9k ( no?+ b pr(it-mak+1 h[ev]1 l _m ( 8 race else:]e2 & is probably (t5 ev5 unaw>e ( ! beauty he de/roys = comm]cial reasons1 & he is always able to import *eap coolie lab\r f ,india to c>ry out 8 s*emes4 ,! ,c+alese native x seems is unwill+ to "w1 or probably has n ! physique = heavy field lab\r1 s he pref]s to live ! natural life ( 8 c\ntry s f> z he is all[$ by 8 new ma/]s1 & ( c\rse is d5\nc$ z a lazy dog4 ,ceylon1 inde$1 "o _c help reflect+ mu/ h be5 a delightful p>adise1 if some:at w>m 9 p>ts1 = its own p1 be=e !y 7 int]f]$ ) by we/]n civilisation1 ) its pu%ful comm]ce1 & missions1 br++ 9 _! tra9 pov]ty & disease1 & ! /ruggle = exi/5ce1 9 a l& naturally fruitful & b\ntiful1 & able to support its inhabitants )\t any special ef=ts on _! "p4 ,illu/ration3 ,,tea ,,& ,,rubb] ,,9 ,,ceylon--,a ,,ris+ ,,indu/ry ,! plant]s are n[ clam\r+ = railway ext5sion4 ,9 an int]view :i* ! ,editor ( ,! ,ceylon ,times s\ght ) me ,i ga!r$ t !re 0 consid]able discont5t ) ! ,home ,gov]nm5t1 :o1 he ass]t$1 _h d]iv$ greatly increas$ rev5ues f ! ext5sion ( rubb] plant+ & ! new developm5t ( ! indu/ry1 b :o w\ld n grant money = ! desir$ ext5sions1 ! advice giv5 by ! pres5t secret>y = ! colonies be+ to ! effect t ! ,ceylon p %\ld save _! money1 or 8put by = a ra9y day40 ,( c\rse ! ,editor's po9t ( view 0 t ( ! capitali/1 & t ! m ! c\ntry 0 op5$ up ! bett]1 & he did n c>e to consid] ! effects ( ! ultimate outcome ( ! monopoly :i* absorbs ! results ( & succe$s comm]cial competition4 ,he spoke1 h[ev]1 incid5tally ( ! increase ( pov]ty--pov]ty 9 su* a l&6--& t !re 0 no poor law yet4 ,he said ! ,c+alese w\ld n "w1 & _h ev5 neglect$ ! irrigation ma*9]y :i* _h be5 set up by ! plant]s = _! b5efit1 9 ob$i5ce to ! requirem5ts ( ! home gov]nm5t4 ,?is w\ld seem to %[ ! difficulty ( introduc+ o/5sible b5efits 9 a primitive c\ntry :i* has n rea*$ ! necess>y /age ( developm5t to be able to take advantage (1 or really to utilise1 mod]n me?ods4 ,f ! po9t ( view ( ! simple native no d\bt !re does n appe> to be any reason :y he %\ld *ange ! habits & cu/oms ( 8 race simply = ! b5efit ( =eign settl]s ^: *ief object is to exploit him4 ,*ang+ tra9s at ,nunnoya we 7 aga9 greatly impress$ by ! spl5d\r ( ! sc5]y trav]s$4 ,= a great "p ( ! di/ance t[>ds ,k&y & ,colombo1 ! l9e passes ?r\gh a m\nta9\s di/rict1 at a high altitude1 gradually desc5d+1 ! l9e foll[+ ! cont\rs ( ! hill-sides = ! mo/ "p1 ?\gh tunnell$ occasionally4 ,"o looks across a wide valley ) di/ant m\nta9 ranges1 ridge beyond ridge1 9 m>k$ & emphatic outl9es1 & occasionally abrupt precipices--! %>p conical summit ( ,adam's ,peak conspicu\s among !m4 ,! hill-sides are l>gely cov]$ ) tea-plantations1 b ! railway also passes ?r\gh wild bu% & =e/1 & high above "o may see great t[]+ crags ( lime/one & grit/one4 ,m\nta9 /reams are frequ5tly cross$1 & ^! break into cascades & falls among tumbl$ black rocks2 great b\ld]s frequ5tly /rew ! m\nta9 slopes z if tumbl$ by ,titans among ! foliage4 ,!re is occasionally a sugge/ion ( ,d]by%ire sc5]y "h & !re1 b on a gr&] scale4 ,aft] ,k&y ! l9e desc5ds /ill m till we rea* ! palm groves aga91 ! riv]1 & ! lakes1 & ! heat ( ,colombo aga94 ,?is "t on return+ we put up at ! ,g4,o4,h41 :i* is conv5i5tly ne> ! pi] or dep>ture /age = ! /eam]s4 ,"h we met ,mr ,cyril ,holman ,hunt aga91 & 7 introduc$ to sev]al ( 8 plant] fri5ds1 :o 7 v agreeable4 ,!re is a delightful g>d5 ( palms & tropical plants "h1 :i* is a pleasant resort 9 ! cool ( ! ev5+s4 ,) ,mr ,hunt we visit$ ! ,colombo ,museum1 :i* 0 c\rte\sly op5$ specially = u1 x n be+ a public day4 ,"h 9 a glass case & alive "s extraord9>y leaf-insects arre/$ our att5tion4 ,!y 7 fe$+ on gre5 leaves1 :i* !y exactly resembl$ 9 col\r1 =m1 & texture1 s t x w\ld be mo/ difficult to tell :i* 0 leaf & :i* 0 insect )\t closely wat*+ !m4 ,! "y ones 7 l ! r$ %oots ( a plant1 b ! mature insects 7 q gre5 & q flat l a leaf :ile %[+ ! ribs & ve9+s4 ,"o c\ld h>dly h believ$ t nature1 deceptive & imitative z %e is1 c\ld h be5 capable ( su* a trick4 ,i rememb] t a native at ,k&y _h %[n me "o ( ! gre5 leaf insects 9 a box1 b ,i ?\ght x 0 an artificial ?+1 :i* inde$ x looks4 ,on ! /aircase 7 "s copies ( exce$+ly int]e/+ anci5t ,c+alese fresco-pa9t+s f caves1 resembl+ anci5t ,indian "w 9 /yle1 b 9 "s in/ances %[+ a c]ta9 fre$om 9 h&l+1 ! bru% outl9e recall+ lat] ,greek vase-pa9t+4 ,!re 7 excell5t collections ( native ,c+alese decorative art 9 jewell]y1 silv] "w1 & ivory-c>v+1 ( :i* latt] craft "s combs 7 ! mo/ delicate & int]e/+4 ,!re 7 also block-pr9t$ /uffs simil> to ! ,indian h&-pr9t$ cottons4 ,among ! jewell]y1 ! necklaces ( g>nets & o!r /ones set 9 filagree gold 7 *>act]i/ic4 ,!re 7 models ( native boats ( :i* !re are sev]al int]e/+ v>ieties1 & ^! 7 exceptionally good life-siz$ models ( types ( ! aborig9al inhabitants 7! ,v$das7--! wild bu%-tribes ( ,ceylon4 ,! natural hi/ory dep>tm5t 0 v complete1 & ! :ole museum judici\sly compreh5d$ ! hi/ory1 natural & ar*ological1 ( ! isl&1 & includ$ "s highly int]e/+ ,greco-,buddhi/ic sculptur$ rema9s1 n s f9e 9 /yle z ^? we _h se5 at ,s>na?1 b !re 0 ! same type ( /&+ figure 9 drap]y express+ ! l9es ( ! figure1 & also portions ( an 8umbrella10 %[+ a simil> arrangem5t to ! "o at ,s>na?1 ) ! lotus fl[] c5tre1 & ! s]ies ( conc5tric r+s ( ornam5t conta9+ ! images ( ! lion1 ! horse1 ! ox1 & ! elephant 9 sunk relief4 ,!re 0 also a zoological collection atta*$ to ! museum 9 %$s & avi>ies outside ! ma9 build+--live animals & birds1 includ+ leop>ds1 jackals1 monkeys1 flam+oes1 pelicans1 & a collection ( small birds1 m9as1 doves1 etc4 ,! "t1 h[ev]1 = our dep>ture f ,colombo drew ne>4 ,our /eam] ! ,t\rane ( ! ,messag]ies ,m>itime l9e arriv$ punctually on ,m>* ! #bnd1 call+ at ,colombo on h] homew>d voyage f ,*9a1 & ! same ev5+ saw u abo>d4 ,we made our adieus1 & our /eam] ca/ (f1 or r weigh$ an*or1 ab\t sunset1 & we 7 soon "u way4 ,! d9n]-bell rang at #f4cj1 & go+ on deck aft]w>ds we saw ! la/ ( ,colombo--a m]e ?read ( glitt]+ beads ( light on ! horizon1 & soon lo/ 9 ! d>kness ( night4 ,!re 0 a l>ge proportion ( ,fr5* p among ! pass5g]s1 & !y 7 *iefly (ficials & _! families return+ on leave f ,*9ese /ations4 ,!y 7 exce$+ly gay & lively1 & always _h pl5ty ( conv]sation4 ,x 0 l a cont9ual com$y go+ on ) mu* v>iety ( "*4 ,on ! #g? day1 aft] a voyage ( undi/urb$ s]5ity ov] ! ,indian ocean1 ! blu5ess ( ! sea v>i$ only by ! /eam]'s track1 & ! foam danc+ into ra9b[s1 ) fly+ fi%1 or an occasional turtle1 or an albatross or two1 :i* flapp$ heavily aft] u1 we sight$ ,ad51 & r\nd$ ! /rik+ rocky coa/ to ca/ an*or (f ! port4 ,"h ! tugs br\ght up ! coal light]s1 & ! c>go boats1 & ! sw>m ( ,s\malis1 z be=e1 & ! usual baza> on deck took place1 & ! haul+ ( ! coal & c>go w5t on all ?r\gh ! night--! clam\rs ( ! coolies be+ occasionally fi5di%1 & ! d9 0 (t5 punctuat$ by bangs on an iron b>1 :i* s5t a %iv] ?r\gh ! %ip4 ,?is 0 ! me?od ( giv+ w>n+ to ! man engag$ 9 ! load+ op]ations 9 ! hold4 ,we aft]w>ds le>n$ t two poor coolies _h lo/ _! lives by v5tur+ into ! hold be=e x _h be5 v5tilat$1 & ! air 0 s f\l z to suffocate !m1 & a %ip's (fic] :o w5t to _! rescue also became ins5sible = a "t4 ,x seem$ mu* hott]1 too1 n[ ! %ip 0 /ation>y4 ,artill]y practice 0 go+ on f ! =t ! next morn+1 & we c\ld see ! %ots /rike ! wat]4 ,we did n get cle> ( ,ad5 till ab\t #aj ,a4,m41 b at la/ ! sw>m ( boats & sw>?y ,s\malis left u1 & ! ,t\rane ent]$ on h] c\rse ?r\gh ! ,r$ ,sea1 & 9 due "t pass$ ,mo*a 7to />bo>d7 & ,p]im 7to port7 & ! ,arabian coa/1 ! sea *urn$ into foam by ! /eam] fla%$ ) phosphoresc5ce at night1--! effect 9 ! wake ( ! vessel be+ v beautiful1 gre5 sp>ks appe>+ & float+ on ! surface1 & globes ( subdu$ light gl[$ "u ! fleet+ foam1 rapidly swept along & lo/ 9 ! d>kness ( ! night lit only by />s--among :i* ! ,great ,be> %[$ h[ mu* we _h alt]$ our latitude4 ,! heat cont9u$ v great = ?ree days aft] leav+ ,ad51 :5 x r sudd5ly grew cool]1 & by ! "t we pass$ 8! ,bro!rs0 t[>ds ev5+ on ! #ab? ( ,m>*1 ! wea!r grew q grey & cl\dy ) a cold w9d4 ,we rea*$ ,suez e>ly on ! morn+ ( ! #ac?1 & "h x 0 f9e & bright aga91 ?\gh ! air felt ?9 & cool4 ,! col\r ( ! wat] _h *ang$1 too1 & 0 n[ a f9e cle> turquoise--precisely ! col\r ( ! ,egyptian glass bracelets1 b d>k blue on ! horizon & aga9/ ! l&1 :i* look$ p9k4 ,! drama ( ! (ficial tug & ! c>go boats 0 aga9 p]=m$1 & !re 0 mu* hoi/+ ( c(fee-bags1 9 & out1 & a tak+ ( fre% provisions on bo>d4 ,! ,trad]s came abo>d1 too1 ) ,fez caps1 bead & %ell necklaces1 po/-c>ds1 & o!r trifles4 ,x 0 amus+ to see our ,fr5* fri5ds buy+ ! ,fez freely1 & n only we>+ !m !mselves b putt+ !m on ! heads ( _! *ildr54 ,!re _h already be5 "s a/oni%+ trans=mations 9 co/ume on bo>d s9ce ! cool] wea!r set 91 topis & :ite drill be+ ex*ang$ = twe$ suits & caps or felt hats1 &1 9 "s cases1 sm>t (ficial uni=ms ) %akos4 ,we left ,suez ab\t ! middle ( ! day & ent]$ ! canal1 ! wat] /ill su* a brilliant turquoise col\r t ! reflection 9 ! /rong sunlight caus$ ! :ite brea/s ( ! sea-gulls1 :i* n[ foll[$ our %ip1 to appe> gre54 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,few ,,trifles ,,! ,,wife ,,wi%$ ,,to ,,br+ ,,home ,,f ,,india ,we made "s v agreeable acqua9tances on bo>d1 :i* made ! "t pass m quickly1 & we arriv$ at ,port ,said e>ly on ,friday ! #ad? ( ,m>*4 ,! coal+ ?is "t 0 a comp>atively clean process1 ! w9d n be+ ahead z be=e4 ,"s few ( ! pass5g]s got (f = ,egypt "h1 b we 7 soon "u way aga92 & ,m4 de ,lsseps' l>ge effigy1 ! gre5 dome ( ! ,cu/om ,h\se1 ! /eam]s1 ! :>ves1 & ! po/]s ( ,port ,said soon all fad$ f view z we bade f>ewell to ! ,ea/ & ent]$ ! ,m$it]ranean on our way to ,m>seilles1 ! la/ /age ( our long voyage1 :]e aft] "s toss+ we _h a pass+ vision ( sn[-capp$ ,sicily1 & ! ,lip>i ,isl&s1 ) ,/romboli /ill smok+ away2 & s1 9 due c\rse1 ?r\gh ! /raits ( ,bonifazio1 ) no fur!r sea tr\bles1 l&$ at ,m>seilles on ,m>* #ai1 safe & s\nd4 ,,index ,abu1 ,m\nt1 #fb ,adam's ,peak1 #cjb1 #caa ,ad51 outw>d & homew>d call at1 #ab-ae1 #cad ,ad9a?1 ,ja91 pontiff1 #aca ,ady> ,libr>y1 #bdg ,afghani/an1 ,amir (1 prep>ations = reception (-- ,at ,agra1 #aac-aad1 #abb2 at ,gwalior1 #ace-acf ,aga ,khan1 #bi ,agra-- ,j\rney to1 f ,jaipur1 #aab2 arrival--! hotel1 #aab-aac2 ,pe>l mosque1 #aac2 drive to ! ,=t--,akb>'s great gate1 #aac-aad2 ! ,taj ,mahal1 #aad-aah-- its g>d51 #aah-aai2 ! ,jama ,musjid mosque1 #aai-abj1 #abc2 drive to ! mausoleum ( ,itmad-ud-,daulat1 #abj2 *ur*es1 #aba2 baza>s1 #abb2 excursion to ,sik&ra--tomb ( ,akb>1 #abb-abe2 o!rwise m5tion$1 #ig1 #add1 #ade ,ahm$ ,khan1 #ej1 #ea1 #aea ,ahm$abad-- ,j\rney to1 f ,bombay1 #dh-di2 drive ?r\gh ! city1 #di et seq42 mosques1 #di-ec2 cotton factories1 #ee2 baza> & /reet life1 #ee-eh2 native pott]y1 #eh2 railway /ation1 #fb ,ajmir-- ,j\rney to1 f ,ahm$abad1 #fb-fc2 ,akb> ,=t1 #fd-fe2 baza>s1 #fe-ff1 #gj2 ! ,d>gah1 #ff-fh2 =t ( ,t>g>h1 #fg2 mosque ( ,arhai-d9-ka-,jhonpra1 #fh2 ,daulat ,bagh1 #fh-fi2 cantonm5ts outside ! native city1 #fi-gj2 cu/om ( nail+ horse-%oes on ! doors1 #hj ,akb>1 ,emp]or1 #fd1 #aca1 #aee1 #agg2 tomb (1 at ,sik&ra1 #aef ,alviella1 ,c\nt ,goblet d'1 #da ,alcott1 ,colonel1 #bab1 #bdg1 #bdi ,alex&ra1 ,que51 #ac1 #bfa ,altama%1 #fh ,altam%1 #aeg ,alu-ud-d91 #hj ,amb]1 des]t$ city & palace1 #ajf-g ,am]ican t\ri/s1 #gf1 #hd1 #if-ig1 #acd ,ammayanayakanur1 #bgf ,amritz>-- ,j\rney to1 f ,delhi1 #afa-afb2 hotel t\ts1 #afb-afc2 ! hotel1 #afc-afd2 drive ?r\gh !--its op5 dra9s1 #afd2 ! ,gold5 ,temple1 #afe-aff2 c>pet manufactory1 #aff-afg2 int]view ) a native p$l>1 #afg-afi2 ! ,atal t[]1 #afi2 public g>d5s1 #afi2 dep>ture = ,lahore1 #agj ,&]son1 ,colonel1 #ahe ,arab dh[1 #ae ,arabian coa/1 #ab1 #cad ,arhai-d9-ka-,jhonpra1 mosque (1 #fh ,arjam& ,bann1 #aag ,arnold1 ,sir ,edw91 #aah ,bak]1 ,sir ,samuel1 #cc ,b&ak91 #aab ,bapatia1 #bde ,b>eilly1 #de ,b>ielly1 #ahd ,be>]1 native1 engagem5t (1 #cj-cc ,b$d+1 ne$ = travell]s to supply _! own1 #ce1 #gg ,beg>a1 #ei1 #fj ,b5>es-- ,arrival at--,cl>k's ,hotel1 #bjj1 #baf-bag2 fir/ impressions1 #bja2 ! ,gue/ h\se1 #bja-bjb1 #bje-bjf2 exp$ition to see ! ,buddhi/ rema9s at ,s>na?1 #bja-bje2 view+ ! ,ghats f ! ,mah>ajah's peacock boat1 #bjf-baa2 ! ,burn+ ,ghat1 #bji-baj2 ! ,manik>anika ,ghat & ! ,nepal ,temple1 #bae-baf2 pilgrims1 #baj2 ! ,gold5 ,temple1 #baa2 ,h9du ,college1 #bab2 ! ,monkey ,temple1 #bab2 visit to ! ,mah>ajah 9 8 palace1 #bac-bae2 f>ewell glimpse (1 #bah ,b5gal-,nagpur ,railway1 #bda ,b]hampore1 #bdd ,besant1 ,mrs ,annie1 #bab2 visit to1 at ,madras1 #bdg-bdi ,bhutian peasants1 #bbe-bbf1 #bce ,birdwood1 ,sir ,george1 #bi ,bitragunta1 #bde ,blavatsky1 ,madame1 #bdi ,bl[1 ,mr ,detm>1 #ahb ,bois1 ,mr1 #bij1 #bie ,bombay-- ,impressions (1 f ! sea1 #ba2 ! l&+ at1 #ba-bc2 ,malab> ,hill1 #ba1 #bi-cj2 /reet sc5es1 #bd-be2 mod]n ,briti% build+s1 #be-bf2 ,craw=d m>ket1 #bf2 baza>1 #bf-bh2 native w$d+ processions1 #bg-bh2 ,victoria ,g>d5s1 #bh-bi2 ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum1 #bi2 engagem5t ( a native s]vant1 #cj-cc2 oppressive heat1 #df2 welcome ( ,m4 ,dadabhai ,naoroji to1 #df-dg2 cotton factories1 #ee ,bonifazio1 /raits (1 #d1 #cag ,brahmans1 #bdb ,briti% adm9i/ration1 b5efits (1 discuss$--causes ( unre/1 #ada-adc1 #aij-aib1 #aii1 #cji-caj 8,bro!rs1 ,!10 light%ip1 #aa1 #cae ,br[n1 ,mr ,p]cy1 #agi ,buddhism-- ,9 ,ceylon1 #big2 rema9s (1 at ,s>na?1 #bja1 #bjc-bje-- ! ,great ,tope1 #bje2 ,temple ( ! ,too?1 #cjb ,buffalo c[1 #cf ,burmese p1 discont5t (1 "u ,briti% rule1 #aii ,cactus plant1 #ge ,ca9e1 ,mr ,w4 ,s41 cit$1 #ee1 #aji1 #aah1 #aca1 #aea ,calabrian coa/1 #d ,calcutta-- ,races at1 #bi2 ,national ,congress at1 #df2 j\rney to1 f ,b5>es1 #bah-bai2 impressions1 #bai2 ! ,m9to ,fte1 #bai-bbj2 a ,h9du soo?say] at1 #bbj-bba2 indu/rial exhibition1 #bba-bbb2 g5]al impressions1 #bbb2 o!rwise m5tion$1 #aih ,campbell1 ,col91 #ahi ,c&ia1 #e ,c>ol9e1 ,que51 #bjb ,c>pet manufactory at ,amritz>1 #aff-afg ,c>ts1 native1 #bb-bc1 #ee1 #ajd-aje ,ca%m]e travell+ m]*ants1 #aha ,ceylon-- ,notes (1 #bij et seq42 decorative art (1 #cab2 native co/umes 91 #bib-bic1 #bih2 religion (1 #big2 rubb] trade 91 #cjh-caj2 tea-plantations (1 #cjb-cjc1 #cje2 vegetation1 luxuriant1 & sc5]y1 #bii-cja1 #cjd-cjg1 #caj-caa2 ,we/]n civilisation--its que/ionable b5efits1 #big1 #cja1 #cjh-caj ,ceylon ,times1 ,!1 int]view ) editor (1 #cji-caj ,*>ybdis1 #d ,*itor1 city (1 #gg-gi ,*itorg>h-- ,j\rney to1 f ,ajmir1 #gd-ge2 night sp5t at1 #ge-gg2 visit to ! ru9$ =tress1 #gg1 #gi-ha2 ,t[] ( ,victory1 #ha2 o!rwise m5tion$1 #ie1 #ajh ,c9namon tree1 #cjj ,clan ,campbell1 s4s41 #i ,clock t[]s1 mod]n1 9 ,india1 #aid ,colombo-- ,arrival at1 #bij-bia2 g5]al description (1 #bia-bii2 g>d5 ( palms1 #caa2 museum1 #caa-cac ,corom&el ,coa/1 native co/umes on1 #bdb ,corsica1 #d ,co/umes1 native1 #ef1 #gb2 9 ,s\!rn ,india1 #bda-bdb1 #beb-bec ,cotton factories1 #ee ,cotton y>n1 prep>ation (1 = h& weav+1 #ha ,cranes1 :ite1 #ed ,crete1 #e ,cr[s1 ,indian1 #bc ,cultivat$ ,crops1 #ge ,cunn+ham1 ,g5]al1 #bje ,curzon1 ,"l1 #aai1 #abj1 #abb1 #aej ,cuttack1 #bda ,dacoits1 #aih-aii ,daulatabad1 #cd1 #cf-cg1 #dd-de ,d>gah ( ,ajmir1 #ff-fh ,d>jeel+-- ,j\rney to1 f ,calcutta1 #bbc-bbf2 toy railway1 #bbd-bbe2 g5]al description1 #bbf-bbg2 ,woodl&s' hotel & its ent]ta9m5ts--! ,tibetan masque1 #bbg-bcb2 ! t[n1 #bcc-bcd2 walks & rides r\nd1 #bce ,dauv]gne1 ,m41 #cc1 #dd1 #de ,delhi-- ,j\rney to1 f ,agra1 #adf-adg2 arrival--,briti% resid5tial qu>t]--,ka%mir ,gate1 #adh-adi2 ,mut9y memorial1 #adi2 ! palace--peacock ?rone1 etc41 #adi-aea2 ,moti ,musjid 7,pe>l mosque71 #aea2 ,jama ,musjid mosque1 #aea-aeb2 ,ja9 temple1 #aeb2 ! ,*&ni ,*\k1 #aeb-aed2 excursion to ! ,kutab ,m9>1 #aed-aeh2 mosque ( ,%9 ,%ah1 #aee2 ,old ,delhi1 #aee2 anci5t city ( ,indrapat1 #aee2 tomb ( ,humayun1 #aee-aef2 cemet]y ( ,nizam-ud-d91 #aef-aeg2 driv+ exp]i5ces1 #aei-afj2 dep>ture1 #afa2 o!rwise m5tion$1 #ii ,delw>a1 #fb ,digby1 ,mr ,william1 #ada1 #aia ,d9digul1 #bgf ,d+hra1 ,dr1 #aff ,d[d51 ,mrs1 #ahi1 #aid ,driv+ 9 ,india1 risks (1 #aei ,dutt1 ,mr ,rome%1 #a ,dye+1 native me?ods (1 #eg1 #ajd ,ea/ ,india ,company1 #aca ,ea/]n life1 influ5ce ( ,we/]n ideas on1 #ef1 #id1 #ada-adc1 #aij-aib1 #aii1 #cji-caj ,edw>d ,,vii41 #dg1 #bfa ,egyptian religion1 p>allelism betwe5 ! ,h9du religion &1 #beh ,elephants-- ,excursions on1 #gg-gh1 #hb1 #ajg2 ba?+ (1 at ,k&y1 #cjb ,ellora1 caves (-- ,j\rney to1 f ,bombay1 #cc-ch--;& back aga91 #dd-df2 temple ( ,kylas1 #ch-dc2 ,buddhi/ temples1 #dc2 village ( ,ellora1 #dd ,enamel1 ,*amplv1 #agi-ahj ,etna1 ,m\nt1 #d ,ev]e/1 ,m\nt1 #bce ,fam9es1 native1 #ada ,flaxman1 #bei ,fly+ fi%1 #ae-af ,food at refre%m5t /ations1 unsatisfactor9ess (1 #bed 8,=e/ flame10 #bbd ,fr5* t\ri/s1 #if ,fruit-bats1 #fa ,fun]al1 native1 #ic-id ,gane%a1 ! elephant god1 #da1 #ha1 #bef ,ganges1 sc5es at ! ,ghats at ,b5>es1 #bjf-baa2 ! ,burn+ ,ghat1 #bji-baj ,g>d5s1 ,ea/]n type (1 #ajj-aja ,girg5ti1 #dj ,glass1 convex-mirror-mosaic "w1 #hg1 #agg ,gohad1 ,rana (1 #aca ,grace1 ,a4 ,f41 #acb ,graham1 ,cunn+hame1 #bdh ,gramophones 9 ,india1 #ii ,gre5 ray1 ph5om5on (1 #af ,gunj ,bak%1 mosque & tomb (1 #ei-fj ,gwalior-- ,arrival at--! ,gue/ h\se1 #abg-abh1 #acd1 #acf-acg2 tomb ( ,mohamm$ ,ghaus1 #abh2 drive to ! ,=t1 #abh-acb2 palace ( ! ,man ,m&ir1 #abi1 #ach2 ,ja9 ,temples1 #acj2 new t[n 7,la%k>71 #aca1 #acd-ace2 visit to ,mah>ajah's palace1 #acb-acc2 sunsets ov] ! ,rock1 #acg-ach2 description ( ! old t[n1 #ach-adj2 dep>ture--sc5e at ! railway /ation1 #add ,hail & ?und] /orms comb9$1 #bcg ,h>dy1 ,miss1 #a ,h>rison1 ,t4 ,erat1 #aid ,ha?i ,s+1 %r9e (1 #eh ,h]e=d%ire1 s4s41 #i ,himalayas-- ,climb+ 9 !1 #bbg-bbi2 sn[ peaks (1 #bcb-bcc1 #bcg ,h9du & ,tamil ,,mss41 libr>y (1 #bfj ,h9dus-- ,educat$1 deb>r$ f high adm9i/rative po/s1 #adb ,religion (--nature wor%ip 91 #da1 #bgi-bhj2 p>allelism betwe5 ! ,egyptian religion &1 #beh ,temples (--at ,madura1 #bgg-bhc2 at ,s]+ham1 #bgb-bge2 at ,tanjore1 #bee ,w$d+s (1 #bg-bh ,wom51 #cc1 #de1 #ajd1 #agd ,hiro%igi1 #bj ,horton1 ,lady1 #cja ,hotel life1 picturesque feature (1 #hd-he ,humayun1 ,tomb (1 #aee ,hunt1 ,holman1 #bdi ,hunt1 ,mr ,cyril ,holman1 #bih1 #caa ,hunt]1 ,capt4 ,j4 ,b4 ,dalzell1 #bdj ,hunuman1 ,h9du god1 #da ,hunuman1 ! monkey god1 temple (1 at ,b5>es1 #bab ,hyndman1 ,mr ,h4 ,m41 #adb ,india ,(fice1 policy (1 #ada-adc1 #aij-aib1 #aii1 #cji-caj ,indian ,ocean1 incid5ts on voyage 91 #ag ,iqd-i-gul1 or ,! ,rose ,necklace1 #bdj-bda ,irrigation wells1 #agj-aga1 #aif2 ( ,s\!rn ,india1 #bdc-bdd ,ismailia1 #i ,israelites1 passage (1 ?r\gh ! ,r$ ,sea1 #aa ,ivory c>v]'s work%op at ,delhi1 #aec-aed ,jack fruit1 #cjj-cja ,jagm&ir1 palace (1 #hh-ia ,jahan>a ,begum1 #aef ,jahangir1 #hi ,ja9 pontiffs1 s&/one c>v+s (1 #aca ,ja9 sect1 p]secution (1 #bgi ,ja9 temples at--,ajmir1 #fh2 ,*itorg>h1 #ha2 ,delhi1 #aeb2 ,gwalior1 #acj2 ,udaipur1 #hf-hg ,jaipur-- ,j\rney to1 f ,ajmir1 #ig2 fir/ impressions1 #ig-ii2 ! city1 8! rose-col\r$ city10 #ii-ajj1 #aaf2 baza>s1 #aja-ajb1 #ajd-aje1 #aaj2 enamell$ jewell]y (1 #aja1 #ajb2 sph]ical roll+ lamps (1 #ajb2 ! ,mah>ajah's /ate elephant1 #ajb-ajc2 ! ,mah>ajah's palace1 #ajc-ajd1 #aah2 /reet sc5es1 #aje-ajf2 ! ,mah>ajah's horses1 #aaj-aaa ,jehan1 ,%ah1 #fi1 #hi1 #aac1 #aad1 #aai1 #aej ,jhansi1 #ade ,jijibhai1 ,sir ,jamsetji1 #bi ,jopl+-,r[e1 ,mrs1 #aif ,jubbelte]1 ,isl& (1 #ab ,juggl]s1 native--! mango-tree trick1 #ahg-ahh ,jugg]na?-- ,temple (1 #hf-hg2 fe/ival ( ! ,kri%na at1 #bda ,jugg]naut1 pilgrims f1 #bdb ,jullumpore1 #afa ,kali1 goddess1 #aji ,k&y1 visit to--its sc5]y & foliage1 #bii-cjb ,khusru1 #aef ,k9*9 ,junga1 view (1 #bbg1 #bcb-bcc1 #bcg ,kipl+1 ,mr1 #agg1 #agi ,kites1 ,indian1 #bc-bd1 #aaj ,koh-i-noor diamond1 !1 #abe ,kri%na1 fe/ival (1 #bda ,kunja ,sahib1 %r9e (1 #ff ,kutab ,m9>1 #aeg-aeh ,kutab-ud-d91 #aeg ,la ,n]a1 s4s41 #b ,lahore-- ,j\rney to1 f ,amritz>1 #agj-aga2 ! ,*>+ ,cross hotel1 #aga2 ,briti% resid5tial & bus9ess qu>t]1 #aga-agc1 #agh-agi2 native qu>t]1 #agc-age2 baza>s1 #age-agf2 ! ,=t1 #agf-agg2 ! ,samadh1 #agh2 ,jama ,musjid1 #agh2 ,waz> ,khan til$ mosque1 #agh1 #aha2 ,c\rts ( ,ju/ice1 #agi2 ,museum1 #agi-ahj2 /reet sc5es 91 #aha2 visit f ! ,pr9cess ,duleep ,s+h1 #ahb2 dep>ture = ,luckn[1 #ahb-ahc ,lamps1 sph]ical roll+1 #ajb1 #bbb ,la%k>1 #aca1 #acd-ace ,laur5ce1 ,"l1 /atue (1 #agi ,laur5ce1 ,sir ,h5ry1 #aib ,leaf insects1 #caa-cab ,lsseps1 ,m4 de1 #cag 8,light ( ! ,_w1 ,!10 #bdi ,lip>i ,isl&s1 #cag ,longd51 ,lady1 #cja ,luckn[-- ,j\rney to1 f ,lahore1 #ahc-ahd2 ,wurtzl]'s hotel1 #ahe2 9 hospital1 #ahe-ahf2 native juggl]s--! mango-tree trick1 #ahg-ahh2 ru9s ( ! ,resid5cy1 #ahi-aij1 #aib2 ! ,sik&] ,bagh1 #ahi-aij2 ,*att] ,manzel1 #aib2 ar*itecture (1 #aib-aic2 ,jama ,musjid1 #aic2 ! ,iamb>a1 #aic-aie2 baza> ( ! old city1 #aid-aie2 ?r\gh ! baza> on elephants1 #aif-aig2 ! ,m>t9ire1 #aig-aih ,lyons1 #aih ,mac>?y1 ,lady1 #cja ,madura-- ,sc5]y ne>1 #bgf2 visit to ! ,great ,temple1 #bgf-bhc2 ! ,temple ,c\rts1 #bhc2 ,teppa ,tank1 #bhd2 gigantic ,banyan tree1 #bhd2 palace ( ,tiramala1 #bhd-bhe2 silk indu/ry1 #bhe-bhf2 table decorations at1 #bhf ,madras-- ,j\rney to1 f ,calcutta1 #bci-bde2 arrival--! ,ca/le ,hotel1 #bde-bdf2 public build+s & /reet sc5es1 #bdf-bdg1 #bdi-bea2 temp]ature at1 #bdg2 visit to ! ,ady> libr>y1 #bdg-bdi2 ,toddy ,tappus1 #bdi2 j9-rick%aws1 #bdi-bej2 ,botanic ,g>d5s1 #bea ,mahmud%ah1 #ei ,malab> ,hill1 #ba1 #bi-cj ,m&al1 #ge ,m>a?a *iefs1 #aea ,m>ble-- ,pi]c+ patt]ns 91 #fd-fe2 suitability ( ,indian climate = pres]v+1 #fi ,m>seilles1 #b1 #cag ,m>t91 ,g5]al or ,capta9-- ,pa9t+ (1 #aic2 s*ools f\nd$ by1 #aig-aih ,mayo1 ,"l1 #ajj ,mecca1 sign ( hav+ visit$1 on h\se walls1 #h ,mess9a1 #d ,migration ( ,symbols 7d',alviella71 cit$1 #da-db ,mirza ,jahangir1 tomb (1 #aef ,mission>ies1 indiff]5ce (1 to native religions1 #bge1 #big ,mo*a1 #ab1 #cad ,mogul ,emp]ors1 private *apel (1 #aac ,mogul ,s]ai1 #bah ,mohamm$ans-- ,educat$1 deb>r$ f high adm9i/rative po/s1 #adb2 ,tombs (1 #h1 #ei-fj2 ,w$d+s among !1 #bg2 ,wom51 #ajd1 #agd-age ,mongolian peasants1 #bbe-bbf ,monkeys1 silv] grey1 #ec1 #ei ,moonsawmy1 #cc1 #abe-abf1 #ahc ,mori1 #fc ,morley1 ,mr ,john1 #adb ,moses1 well (1 #aa ,moti ,musjid1 #aac ,muli*1 ,dr1 #a ,munmad1 a night at1 #cd-cf1 #de ,musl91 native me?od ( pr9t+ on1 #gj ,mussulman mosque ( ,arhai-d9-ka-,jhonpra1 #fh ,mut9y1 memorials (1 #ahi-aij2 provocative causes (1 #aij ,nadir ,%ah1 #aea ,naoroji1 ,m4 ,dadabhi1 welcome (1 to ,bombay1 #df-dg ,naisirabad1 #gd ,nelson1 ,"l1 bu/ (1 #bfj ,nemna?1 ,ja9 pontiff1 #aca ,nizam ( ,hyd]abad1 #cf1 #ch ,nizam-ud-d91 cemet]y (1 #aef-aeg ,nunnoya1 #cjc1 #caj ,nuw>a-,eliya1 #cjb2 sc5]y at1 #cjd-cje2 ! ,magdala ,g>d5s1 #cje-cjg ,p>sees-- ,burial place (1 #cj2 ,m]*ant1 description (1 #bd2 ,w$d+s among1 #bh ,p>vati1 goddess1 #da1 #aji1 #bef ,paul1 ,lieut5ant1 #aih ,p]rim1 #ab1 #cad ,picturesque ,india 7,w4 ,s4 ,ca9e71 quot$1 #aea ,pillai1 ,mr1 #bgg-bgh ,pill\r1 #afa ,plague1 bubonic1 #ada ,pl\ghs1 native1 #gd-ge1 #adj ,pl\ghman1 native1 e>n+s (1 #adj ,poori1 #bda ,port ,said1 #caf ,pov]ty ( natives1 #adj-ada1 #adc ,prang1 ,mr ,l\is1 & ,mrs ,prang1 #bce-bcf ,prosp]\s ,briti% ,india 7,digby71 cit$1 #ada1 #aia ,rai1 ,mr ,laipat1 #adb ,railway travell+ 9 ,india-- ,facilities =1 #dh-di2 native travell]s1 #gj-gb ,rajpootana1 #fc1 #gg1 #gi ,ramayana1 #a ,rani ,sipri1 mosque (1 #ea ,readymoney1 ,sir ,c[asji ,jehangir1 #bi ,r$ ,sea1 passage (1 #aa-ab1 #cad ,r5a1 s4s41 #aj ,rhodod5dron1 ,c+alese1 #cjf ,rozah-- ,drive to1 f ,daulatabad1 #cf-cg2 description ( a night at1 #cg-ch ,rubb] trade ( ,ceylon1 #cjh-caj ,russia1 ,cz> (1 #bjf1 #bhb ,ryot1 ,indian1 av]age e>n+s (1 #ada ,said1 ,port1 visit to1 #e-i ,salaams1 cu/om z to1 #gc ,s>a1 cross+ ! ,ganges at1 #bbc-bbd1 #bcg ,s>b>mati ,riv]1 sc5es on1 #ec-ed1 #eh-ei ,s>d9ia1 #d ,s>khai1 excursion to1 #eh-fa ,saund]s1 ,mr & ,mrs1 #aig ,scott1 ,mr ,ross1 #ahh1 #aih ,s*w>tz1 #bei ,scylla1 #d ,s]+ham-- ,religi\s procession at1 #bhb2 ,temple (1 #bgb-bge ,%aw1 ,g4 ,b]n>d1 #bdh ,%eep1 fat-tail$1 #agf ,sicily1 #d1 #cag ,sidi ,sayyids' ,mosque1 #ea-eb ,sik&ra1 excursion to--tomb ( ,akb>1 #abb-abe ,sikhs1 religi\s c5tre (1 #aff ,silignis1 #bbe-bbf ,silk-weav+ at-- ,ahm$abad1 #ee1 #ef2 ,vizianagram1 #bdd2 ,tanjore1 #bfb2 ,madura1 #bhe-bhf ,silv] ,lake1 #bdb ,s9ai1 ,m\nt1 #aa ,s9dhia1 #aca ,s+h1 ,pr9cess ,duleep1 #aha-ahb ,siva1 god-- ,repres5tations (1 at ,madura1 #bgh1 #bgi1 #bhj1 #bha1 #bhc2 sacr$ bull (1 #bee-bef2 sacr$ m>k (1 #bdb1 #bec2 o!rwise m5tion$1 #da1 #aji1 #bef ,sket*+1 native int]e/ 91 #bhc-bhd ,sorabji1 ,miss1 #bbj ,s\malis at ,ad51 #ac-ae ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 ,indian museum at1 #eb ,sp>tiv5to1 ,cape1 #d ,squirrels1 palm1 #cf1 #ei1 #acf ,/romboli1 #cag ,suez1 call at1 #aj1 #cae ,suez ,canal1 passage ?r\gh #i-aj1 #cae-caf ,sun1 eclipse (1 #afg ,table decorations ( ,s\!rn ,india1 #bhf ,taj ,mahal-- ,visit to1 & acc\nt (1 #aad-aah2 g>d5s (1 #aah-aai2 comp>$ ) ! ,itmad-ud-,daulat1 #abj2 moonlight visit to1 #abj-aba2 sket*es (1 #aba ,tamils1 #big ,tanjore-- ,j\rney to1 f ,madras1 #bea-bed2 accommodation at1 #bed-bee1 #bfi2 ! old =t & ,h9du ,temple1 #bee-beh2 religi\s procession at1 #beh2 ,*ri/ian *ur* at1 #beh-bei2 palace ( ! ,mah>ajah1 #bei-bfa2 description (--/reet sc5es1 etc41 #bfa-bfd2 decl9e ( ,we/]n influ5ce at1 #bfc2 native !atre1 #bfd-bfh2 native p$l>s--,tanjore craftsman%ip1 #bfh-bfi2 wat] c>ry+1 #bgj ,taorm9a1 #d ,t>ag>h1 ,=t (1 #fg ,tea1 ,ceylon1 col\r ( bev]age1 #cje ,tea plantations ( ,ceylon1 #cjb-cje ,!atre1 native1 at ,tanjore1 #bfd-bfh ,!osophical ,society1 headqu>t]s1 #bdg ,?re%+ ( gra91 native me?ods1 #beb ,?ull ,ghat1 #cd ,tibetan fat-tail$ %eep1 #agf ,tibetan masque at ,d>jeel+1 #bbi-bcb ,til$ mosques1 #agh ,t\rane1 s4s41 #cac ,tr9*9opoly-- ,arrival at--g5]al impressions1 #bgj-bgb1 #bge2 visit to ! temple ( ,s]+ham1 #bgb-bge2 ! ,rock ( ,tr9*9opoly1 #bge ,tuticor91 #bhg-bhi 8,twelve ,apo/les1 ,!10 #ab ,udaipur-- ,native gr\p f1 #gf2 j\rney to1 f ,*itorg>h1 #hb-hc2 hotel exp]i5ces1 #hc-hd2 place ( tombs1 #he-hf2 palace ( ! ,mah>ajah1 #hg-hh2 excursion to ! palace ( ,jagm&91 #hh-ia2 fe$+ ( ! ,mah>ajah's wild pigs1 #ia-ib2 ! ,mah>ajah's g>d5s1 #ic2 ,victoria ,in/itute1 #ic2 dep>ture f--! /ation1 #id-ie ,umballa1 #afa1 #ahc ,villup>am1 #bed ,vi%nu1 #hf1 #bgb1 #bgc ,vizianagram1 #bdd ,voyages out & home1 descriptions (1 #a-bj1 #cac-cag ,wales1 ,pr9ce & ,pr9cess1 #afg1 #bjf1 #bhb ,waltair1 #bdd ,wat] filt] & wat] be>]s at railway /ations1 #ge ,watts1 ,g4 ,f41 #gf ,wax1 rais$ designs (1 on textiles1 #agi ,webb1 ,sidney1 #bdh ,w$d+ processions 9 ,bombay1 #bg-bh ,we/]n civilisation1 que/ionable value (1 #id1 #cjh-caj ,wom51 native1 co/umes (1 #aje1 #agd-age ,zebu bulls1 #bef1 #bhj ,,pr9t$ ,,by ,,turnbull ,,& ,,spe>s1 ,,ed9burgh ,transcrib]'s ,notes ,punctuation & spell+ 7 made consi/5t :5 a pr$om9ant pref]5ce 0 f\nd 9 ?is book2 o!rwise !y 7 n *ang$4 ,an attempt 0 made to regul>ize inconsi/5t hyph5ation1 b _m inconsi/5cies rema94 ,simple typographical errors 7 correct$2 occasional unbalanc$ quotation m>ks reta9$4 ,ambigu\s hyph5s at ! ends ( l9es 7 reta9$4 ,! illu/rations on ! title & d$ication pages are decorative4 ,illu/rations orig9ally pr9t$ mid-p>agraph h be5 mov$ to ne>by p>agraph breaks1 s ! page numb]s 9 ! ,li/ ( ,illu/rations d n always mat* ! positions 9 ?is e,book4 ,h[ev]1 l9ks1 9 v]sions ( ?is e,book t support !m1 d lead to ! mat*+ illu/rations4 ,index n *eck$ = prop] alphabetization or correct page ref]5ces4 ,page #hc3 8,9 meet+ "o's compatriots abo>d0 probably %\ld be 8abroad04 ,page #bah3 8,aurangz] ,mosque0 %\ld be 8,aurangzeb ,mosque04 ,page #bca3 89 an access ( ridicul\s0 probably %\ld be 8excess04