,,india ,,impressions ,illustration3 ,,the ,,manikarnik ,,gh,t ,,benares ,,india ,,impressions ,,with ,,some ,,notes ,,of ,,ceylon ,,during ,a ,,winter ,,tour1 #aijf-g ,,by ,,walter ,,crane1 ,r4,w4,s4 ,,with ,a ,,frontispiece ,,in ,,colour ,,and ,,numerous ,,other ,,illustrations ,,from ,,sketches ,,by ,,the ,,author ,illustration ,,new ,,york ,,the ,,macmillan ,,company #aijg ,,to ,,my ,,wife ,,my ,,travelling ,,companion ,,on ,,this ,,tour1 ,,and ,,to ,,whom ,,the ,,project ,,was ,,due1 ,i ,,now ,,inscribe ,,its ,,record ,illustration ,,preface ,although many books descriptive of ,india and ,indian life have recently appeared1 even a short visit to that wonderful country presents so extraordinary a series of spectacles to the ,european1 especially to one seeing the ,east for the first time1 that it occurred to me that a few notes and fresh impressions from an artist's point of view1 accompanied by sketches made on the spot1 as well as illustrations of the lighter side of travel1 might not be without interest to the public4 ,even apart from the enormous artistic interest and architectural splendours of ,india1 which are so rich and abundant that one feels that hundreds of drawings would be necessary to give any adequate idea of their beauty1 there is the human interest of these vast populations1 among whom so many streams of race1 language and religion are found1 not to speak of the problems of government and administration they present4 ,i cannot claim to have had any special facilities in seeing the country--no more at least than might be at the command of an ordinary ,english tourist1 and have trusted chiefly to what powers of observation ,i may possess in describing the various cities visited1 and the districts traversed1 and ,i offer these notes strictly as personal impressions4 ,owing to ever increasing facilities of travel1 the ,east is1 in a sense1 drawn nearer to the ,west1 or1 rather the ,west to the ,east1 but nothing strikes the traveller so much as the apparently vast gulf dividing the dark-skinned races from the white--a gulf deeper and wider than the oceans4 ,i mean the profound differences in ideas1 in religion1 in sentiment1 in life1 habit and custom4 ,western influence where even it has had any apparent effect--apart from commercial enterprise--seems to be but a thin veneer1 and it is a constant wonder how the ,british should have been able to acquire and maintain their grasp over this vast peninsular1 and to hold the balance between antagonistic races and creeds so long4 ,but it is not a comfortable thought for an ,englishman1 loving freedom1 and accustomed to the principles of popular and representative government at home1 to realise that this vast empire is held under the strictest autocratic system2 and that the national aspirations that are now beginning to make themselves heard and felt should be entirely ignored1 and the voice of native feeling sternly suppressed4 ,one can only hope that the great ,british people will take more trouble to study and understand their great ,dependency1 and not be prevented by official explanations from making independent inquiries and observations for themselves1 and finally to 8be just and fear not40 ,if1 however1 in any way and from any point of view1 these impressions may serve1 in however slight a degree1 to increase the interest of my own countrymen and women in ,india1 ,i shall be very glad4 ,,walter ,,crane ,,kensington1 ,july #aijg ,,contents ,,chapter ,,page ,,preface vii ,i4 ,,the ,,voyage #a ,,ii4 ,,bombay ,,and ,,the ,,caves ,,of ,,ellora #ba ,,iii4 ,,ahmedabad #dh ,,iv4 ,,ahmedabad ,,to ,,ajmir #fb ,v4 ,,chitorgarh ,,and ,,udaipur #gd ,,vi4 ,,jaipur #if ,,vii4 ,,agra #aab ,,viii4 ,,gwalior #abg ,,ix4 ,,delhi #add ,x4 ,,amritzar ,,and ,,lahore #afa ,,xi4 ,,lucknow #ahe ,,xii4 ,,benares #bjj ,,xiii4 ,,calcutta--,,darjeeling #bah ,,xiv4 ,,madras ,,and ,,the ,,south #bci ,,xv4 ,,notes ,,of ,,ceylon #bij ,,index #cai ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations ,,in ,,the ,,text ,,page ,,rough ,,sketch ,,map ,,of ,,india xvi ,,london ,,to ,,port ,,said1 ,a ,,hieroglyphic ,,of ,,our ,,voyage #c ,,coaling ,,at ,,port ,,said--,,and ,,after6 #f ,,spoiling ,,the ,,egyptians8 ,,or ,,being ,,despoiled ,,by ,,them6 #g ,,sensation ,,in ,,solar ,,topis #g ,,the ,,suez ,,canal #i ,,the ,,passage ,,of ,,the ,,red ,,sea 7,,therm3 #hh ,,or ,,so67 #ab ,,in ,,the ,,same ,,boat--,a ,,contrast ,,at ,,aden #ad ,,some ,,types ,,among ,,our ,,fellow ,,passengers #ag ,,landing ,,at ,,bombay #bb ,,awaiting ,,the ,,customs--,,bombay #bc ,,street ,,performers--,,bombay #bd ,,interview ,,with ,,candidates ,,for ,,the ,,post ,,of ,,bearer--,,mostly ,,unbearable6 #ca ,a ,,bed ,,at ,,the ,,dak ,,bungalow6 ,,munmad 7,,keep ,,it ,,da7,r7,k7 #ce ,,we ,,are ,,introduced ,,to ,,the ,,caves ,,of ,,ellora #ci ,,and ,,its ,,wasps #db ,,the ,,feet ,,of ,,pilgrims 7,,at ,,mohammedan ,,mosques7 #ej ,,poor ,,relations #eb ,a ,,family ,,party--,,cranes ,,on ,a ,,mango ,,tree 7,,sarbarmati ,,river7 #ed ,,street ,,scene1 ,,ahmedabad4 ,,english ,,travellers ,,sketching ,,and ,,making ,,purchases #eg ,,the ,,camel',s ,,crinoline 7,,sugar ,,cane7 ,,ajmir #ga ,,first ,,elephant ,,ride4 7,,chitorgarh7 #gh ,,rajputs ,,and ,,their ,,rarities4 7,,udaipur7 #he ,,hotel ,,accommodation 7,,jaipur71 8,,for ,,your ,,ease ,,and ,,comfort0 7,,or ,,rather ,,for ,,the ,,easing ,,of ,,your ,,rupees87 #ih ,,to ,,amber ,,on ,,an ,,elephant #ajf ,,shopping ,,in ,,jaipur #aji ,,aggravating ,,agra #aae ,,the ,,mainstay ,,of ,,india4 ,,aquarius--,,the ,,water-,,bearer #aai ,,to ,,gwalior ,,fort ,,by ,,palanquin #abi ,,callers ,,at ,,the ,,guest ,,house1 ,,gwalior #acg ,a ,,dash ,,for ,,the ,,dining-,,car ,,at ,,agra ,,road #adf ,,delhi ,,driving4 ,,wanted--,a ,,rule ,,of ,,the ,,road #aei ,,she ,,won',t ,,be ,,happy ,,till ,,she ,,gets ,,everything ,,packed ,,up #afb ,,demon ,,hotel ,,touts ,,at ,,amritzar ,,fighting ,,for ,,their ,,prey #afc ,,through ,,amritzar--,,sit ,,tight ,,and ,,hold ,a ,,smelling ,,bottle6 #afe ,,an ,,indian ,,autolycus #afh ,,enjoying ,a ,,log ,,fire ,,at ,,lahore #agb 8,,the ,,woman ,,in ,,white0 ,,at ,,lahore 7,,suggestion ,,for ,a ,,disguise ,,party7 #age ,,the ,,merchants ,,of ,,kashmir #ahb ,,in ,,hospital1 ,,lucknow4 ,,the ,,operating ,,table 7,,patient ,,had ,a ,,bit ,,of ,,grit ,,in ,,her ,,eye ,,after ,a ,,train ,,journey7--,,sixteen ,,rupees ,,were ,,extracted6 #ahf ,,jugglers ,,at ,,lucknow--,,the ,,mango ,,tree ,,trick #ahg ,,better ,,luck ,,at ,,lucknow--,,through ,,the ,,chowk ,,on ,,an ,,elephant #aie ,,the ,,maharajah ,,places ,,his ,,carriage ,,at ,,our ,,disposal #bjb ,,benares3 ,,viewing ,,the ,,ghats ,,from ,,the ,,maharajah',s ,,peacock ,,boat #bjg ,,we ,,see ,,snakes ,,at ,,benares #bji ,,the ,,maharajah',s ,,reception1 ,,decorating ,,the ,,visitors #bad ,,the ,,soothsayer ,,at ,,calcutta--7,,or ,,palmistry ,,under ,,the ,,palms7 #bbj ,,the ,,darjeeling ,,toy-,,railway ,,trying ,,to ,,catch ,,its ,,own ,,tail6 #bbe ,,characters ,,in ,a ,,tibetan ,,masque1 ,,darjeeling #bbh ,,the ,,shy ,,peak ,,of ,,kinchin ,,junga #bcc ,a ,,ride ,,at ,,darjeeling3 8,,up ,,hill ,,spare ,,me0 #bcd ,a ,,hailstone ,,chorus--,,departure ,,from ,,darjeeling #bcf ,,calcutta ,,to ,,madras--,,section ,,of ,,sleeper--,,or ,,something ,,like ,,it #bdj ,,ladies ,,or ,,gentlemen8 7,,fashions ,,in ,,southern ,,india7 #bdc ,,madras--,a ,,jin-,,rickshaw ,,made ,,for ,,two #bej ,,tanjore--,,native ,,theatre--,,house ,,full4 ,,performance ,,from #i ,p4,m4 ,,till #b ,a4,m4--,,but ,,we ,,didn',t ,,stop ,,to ,,see ,,it ,,through #bfe ,,trichinopoly--,,ox ,,tonga--,,vita ,,brevis6 #bga ,,the ,,sacred ,,elephants ,,of ,,seringham--,,securing ,,two-,,anna ,,pieces #bgd ,,the ,,rivals4 ,,our ,,moonsawmy ,,and ,,the ,,madura ,,guide #bgg ,,tuticorin4 ,,departure ,,for ,,colombo4 ,,the ,,last ,,of ,,the ,,kites ,,and ,,crows #bhg ,,landing ,,at ,,colombo #bia ,,common ,,objects ,,of ,,colombo4 7,,jin-,,rickshawus ,,bipedes7 #bic ,a ,,cingalese ,,waiter #bid ,,in ,,ceylon--,,extremes ,,meet--,,the ,,motor ,,and ,,the ,,ox-,,cart #bif ,,tea ,,plantation1 ,,ceylon #cjc ,,tea ,,and ,,rubber ,,in ,,ceylon--,a ,,rising ,,industry #cji ,a ,,few ,,trifles ,,the ,,wife ,,wished ,,to ,,bring ,,home ,,from ,,india #caf ,,list ,,of ,,plates ,,the ,,manikarnik ,,ghat1 ,,benares ,frontispiece ,,to ,,face ,,page ,,the ,,kylas1 ,,caves ,,of ,,ellora #ch ,,arrival ,,of ,,mr ,,dadabhai ,,naoroji ,,at ,,bombay1 ,,december #ad1 #aijf #df ,,tomb ,,of ,,gunj ,,baksh1 ,,sarkhei #eh ,,shrine ,,of ,,the ,,kwaja1 ,,ajmir #ff ,,the ,,maharajah',s ,,palace ,,at ,,udaipur1 ,,from ,,the ,,jagmandir ,,pavilion #hh ,,the ,,maharajah',s ,,state ,,elephant1 ,,jaipur #ajb ,,the ,,taj ,,mahal1 ,,from ,,the ,,gateway #aaf ,,in ,,the ,,bazaar1 ,,gwalior #acd ,,approach ,,to ,,the ,,palace ,,of ,,man ,,mandir1 ,,gwalior #ach ,,the ,,jama ,,musjid ,,mosque1 ,,delhi #aeb ,,lahore--,,the ,,mosque ,,of ,,waza ,,khan #ahb ,,irrigation ,,well1 ,,lucknow #aif ,,kinchin ,,junga ,,from ,,darjeeling #bcb ,,tanjore--,,the ,,great ,,gate ,,of ,,the ,,temple #bed ,,sacred ,,tank ,,of ,,the ,,great ,,temple1 ,,madura #bhb ,,under ,,the ,,palms ,,at ,,the ,,galle ,,face1 ,,ceylon #bib ,illustration3 ,,rough-,,sketch ,,skeleton-,,map ,,of ,,india ,,to ,,show ,,our ,,railway ,,route ,,position ,,of ,,the ,,places ,,visited ,,india ,,impressions ,,chapter ,i ,,the ,,voyage ,a visit to ,india and the ,east had long been a cherished but somewhat vague dream with us4 ,it seemed a far cry1 and to make a break of a few months in the midst of the occupations of a busy life is always a difficult matter4 ,the impossible1 however1 became in course of time possible1 and even practicable4 ,inquiries as to ways and means had the effect of clearing our path2 and having the will1 the way was soon discovered4 8,only sixteen days to ,bombay60 our ,indian friends in ,london told us1 and they were always urging us to go and see their wonderful country for ourselves4 ,mr ,romesh ,dutt and ,dr ,mulich had been visitors at our house4 ,the former had presented his interesting translation of the 8,ramayana10 illustrated by ,miss ,hardy1 to my wife4 ,besides these we had from time to time made the acquaintance of several native gentlemen in ,london who were reading for the ,indian ,bar4 ,they came and went1 but all were earnest in their hope that we should visit ,india1 and ,i think that they had discovered our sympathies were with those of their countrymen in their aspirations to participate in the administration of the affairs of their own country4 ,the decisive step of booking our passage was at last taken in the summer of #aijf1 and the #aith day of ,november following saw us en route for ,marseilles1 where we committed ourselves to the care of the ,messageries ,maritime1 and embarked on the ,s4,s4 8,la ,nera0 in due course1 putting to sea on ,wednesday1 the #bast ,november4 ,it was a lovely bright afternoon as we left the port1 the southern sunshine flooding everything in golden light4 ,it is a wonderful moment when the ship casts off4 ,the great liner1 which had seemed a part of the land itself while the stream of passengers passed up the gangways1 and their baggage after them1 begins to throb with life and movement--to tremble1 as it were1 with expectation of departure4 ,as a swimmer about to take the water casts off all impedimenta1 so the ship casts off her cables and all that links her to the shore1 and glides off into the great blue deep1 breasting the waves of the vast open sea4 ,incredibly fast as the engines beat the solid land fades away4 ,the domes and towers and chimneys silhouetted against the bright sky1 the people on the quays1 the ships riding at anchor1 the tossing harbour buoys1 the small sailing craft flitting about1 all are rolled by as on the canvas of a moving diorama1 as the steamer clears the port1 and all detail becomes merged and lost under the bold main outlines of the rocky coast1 or the dim shapes of the distant mountains4 ,as the long shining wake increases astern and the coast recedes1 those nautical camp-followers the gulls1 which have pursued the ship from the harbour1 begin to diminish their numbers1 though they wing a long way out to sea1 attracted by the crumbs which occasionally fall from the region of the cook's galley4 ,illustration3 ,,london ,,to ,,port ,,said1 ,a ,,hieroglyphic ,,of ,,our ,,voyage ,a glorious sunset inaugurated our first night at sea--of the order of the ,golden ,fleece1 as it might be called--a distinct type1 when in a windless sky a large field of delicate fleecy cirrus cloud spreads in a level field from west to east1 and as the sun sinks its under edges are lighted up by golden light1 changing to orange1 scarlet1 and crimson1 when he disappears beneath the horizon4 ,so our voyage began propitiously1 and with a smooth sea4 ,early the next morning we passed through the ,straits of ,bonifazio1 between ,corsica and ,sardinia1 the coasts of which we had a glimpse of through our port-hole1 and on the morning of the third day1 after a little tossing1 we sighted ,sicily1 passing ,scylla and ,charybdis at the entrance of the straits1 and close to ,messina4 ,etna soon came into view1 its summit covered with a crown of snow 7as we had seen it on our visit to ,taormina in #aijd74 ,the ,calabrian coast1 too1 was very interesting1 the mountains of striking form1 and the lines very varied all along to ,cape ,spartivento--the toe of the boot-shaped continent of ,italy4 ,we could see the little white towns along the coast and among the hills1 and the monasteries perched high upon crags4 ,etna gradually faded away1 like a vision1 beyond the dark blue edge of the sea1 and almost immediately after passing the cape we encountered a strong easterly wind from the ,adriatic1 which met the ,mediterranean here4 ,at sunset there were huge banks of grey clouds of fantastic shapes rising like high wooded islands1 but we had moonlight on the waters every night4 ,those grey banks of cloud1 however1 were ominous1 and by ,november the #bdth the weather grew so rough that the 8fiddle-strings0 became necessary on the tables in the dining-saloon1 where the attendance1 too1 grew distinctly thinner4 ,towards evening we sighted the cliffs of ,crete 7,candia71 the fissured1 mountainous1 and dangerous-looking coast plainly visible in the sunlight1 though a bank of cloud covered the summits of the island4 ,after much tossing and rolling through another day and night the lights of ,port ,said were sighted about four o'clock on the morning of ,november #bf4 ,there was a powerful search-light from the lighthouse4 ,we got into harbour about #e4cj1 and the coaling began4 ,it was a weird scene4 ,six black lighters were hauled alongside our steamer1 three on the port bow and three on the starboard1 and boats crowded to the water's edge with coolies in long ragged garments and turbans1 mostly of a dusky red and blue1 the colours shining through the coal dust which darkened their naturally swarthy visages and forms4 ,as these crowded boats approached with their weird passengers1 one had an irresistible suggestion of ,charon ferrying lost souls across the ,styx--there was generally only one pair of oars1 as the distance to the steamer from the wharf was very short4 ,well1 these were our coal-slaves1 upon whose cheap labour the speed of our steamers depends quite as much as on their own engines1 one felt4 ,from the boats they scrambled into the lighters--some shovelled up the coal into hand baskets of matting which others lifted on to their shoulders and carried across a narrow plank into the ship1 forming a weird line of black figures silhouetted against the shining water4 ,the coolies worked hard and fast in a black mist of coal dust and kept up a continual hubbub of cries in ,arabic and other strange tongues which added to the weirdness of the scene4 ,illustration3 ,,coaling ,,at ,,port ,,said--,,and ,,after6 ,port ,said looked very new and flimsy1 and was hopelessly vulgarised by flaming posters and advertisements of ,western origin both in ,french and ,english4 ,boats swarmed round the ship's side1 and swarthy eager-eyed hotel touts came aboard in ,fez caps1 as well as a motley crowd of traders1 ,egyptian conjurers1 and ,european musicians who played the latest popular waltzes4 ,we were glad to escape the coal dust and go ashore1 where an intelligent but probably not too scrupulous ,egyptian guide undertook to show us everything1 and we went with him round the town1 passing through the market crowded with the picturesque life of the ,east1 which indeed showed itself everywhere through the thin veneer of modern ,european commercialism4 ,a venerable-looking prophet swept the streets1 and1 of course1 there were plenty of street arabs ready to turn 8cart-wheels0 or anything that would turn a more or less honest penny in their direction1 and the cry of 8,backsheesh0 was raised on the slightest provocation4 ,our guide took us into a small ,mohammedan mosque1 modern1 but1 of course1 strictly according to the traditional plan and oriented towards ,mecca4 ,we had to put on loose canvas shoes over our own shoes to enter the sacred precincts1 and our guide gave us a long exposition of the necessary ablutions to be performed by the faithful before and after prayers1 and showed us the water tank fitted with taps1 at one of which a devotee was busy having his wash4 ,illustration3 ,,spoiling ,,the ,,egyptians8 ,,or ,,being ,,despoiled ,,by ,,them6 ,illustration3 ,,sensation ,,in ,,solar ,,topis ,the bazaar bristled with ,european goods1 and topis and cigarettes were much in evidence1 though there were some charming ,egyptian fabrics in the form of scarves brocaded with patterns in gold or silver thread or black on white fine linen4 ,on the whitewashed walls of some of the houses ,i noticed some primitive paintings in distemper1 apparently representing camels1 travellers1 and palm-trees1 done in profile4 ,they were carried horizontally across the front of the houses as a sort of frieze1 and were curiously suggestive in a childlike way of a survival of the ancient ,egyptian method of decorating4 ,our guide said that they indicated that the dweller in the house had visited ,mecca4 ,returning to 8,la ,nera0 we found her indeed blacker than she was painted1 as everything on board was covered with a fine coal dust1 which the energy of the crew with copious hose-pipes eventually got rid of4 ,the harbour of ,port ,said is always busy1 many liners and transports coming and going1 war vessels of various nationalities lying at anchor1 boats plying to and fro1 and young1 lithe1 brown-skinned natives on the quays1 ready to dive for silver pieces1 crouching shivering on the edge of the wharf1 or in a boat1 and crying in an almost continuous monotone1 8 la mer10 8 la mer10 8 la mer10 until the hoped-for small coin is thrown into the water1 when they adroitly dive and intercept it as it falls turning and glittering in the water1 and reappear with it in their mouths1 which soon open for more4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,suez ,,canal ,we started again at #ab4cj for ,suez1 entering the canal4 ,our steamer was stopped at the first village to allow two steamers to pass--the 8,clan ,campbell0 of ,glasgow and the 8,herefordshire0 of ,liverpool4 ,the weather was quite cool and cloudy and it turned out a showery afternoon4 ,flocks of pelicans were seen on the waters of the wide shallow lakes we passed4 ,there was a stormy sunset1 and there was lightning after nightfall1 but later the moon shone brightly1 falling on the wan sand of the banks1 which had quite the effect of snow under its clear cold light4 ,the steamer moved slowly through the canal at about the rate of five knots4 ,a passenger was landed at ,ismailia1 after which we entered the bitter lakes1 and next morning we were within fifteen miles from ,suez1 but our steamer had to stop owing to a transport ship having got aground ahead of us4 ,a ,german steamer was close behind us1 and while waiting many of the passengers landed and roamed about on the desert sand4 ,it was not long1 however1 before the transport was got off1 and she presently passed us1 a huge white steamer named the 8,rena10 crowded with ,english 8,tommies0 homeward bound4 ,the passage of the ,suez ,canal is very interesting and comes as a welcome relief after tossing on the open sea out of sight of land4 ,the long level lines of the sandy desert have a reposeful effect1 but fine ranges of mountains are often seen beyond1 and the desert is frequently varied with the 8strip of herbage strown0 embroidered with palm-trees1 and these elements of ,egyptian landscape steeped in the translucent atmosphere are relieved by striking bronze-coloured figures in blue robes and swarthy ,arabs in white in the foreground on the sand-banks1 or an occasional string of camels4 ,we reached ,suez about midday and anchored off the town4 ,the ,consul's tug paid us a visit1 and our vessel was soon surrounded by a small fleet of picturesque craft with lateen sails1 and gunwales painted with eyes1 and in the semblance of quaint fish in bands of green and white1 manned by swarthy ,arabs and ,egyptians4 ,these brought cargo and provisions to be hoisted on board1 and the process took an hour or two1 but in the afternoon we steamed away again and entered the ,red ,sea4 ,the weather grew perceptibly warmer1 but was still not oppressive1 and there was a cool breeze in the evening4 ,there was a beautiful roseate light at afterglow on the eastern shore1 where ,mount ,sinai was pointed out1 and the well of ,moses1 and the traditional place of the ,israelites' passage of the ,red ,sea4 ,the sun set in gold and purple behind a bold range of craggy mountains on our starboard side1 and a splendid moonlight night succeeded1 the moon nearly at full4 ,on the morning of the #bhth ,november we passed 8,the ,brothers0 lightships to starboard1 and the next day we were out of sight of land1 with a pleasant breeze under the double awnings of the upper deck1 enjoying the best summer weather1 which we should think ourselves lucky to have in ,england4 ,the ,red ,sea was really as blue as the ,mediterranean1 though of course subject to changes according to the sky1 which turned to a wonderful clear greenish gold after sunset1 powdered with small dark clouds which floated across it2 a violet flush above the gold blending it into the deep blue of the upper sky1 the small floating clouds against it showing ashy grey1 while against the gold of the afterglow they looked nearly black1 the sea being of a rather cold metallic blue4 ,the serene weather and the splendour of the moonlit nights continued1 but the temperature rose considerably1 reaching #hh ,fahr4 in our cabin1 which was on the starboard side of the ship4 ,it is as well to remember that port side cabins are cooler for the outward voyage1 and those on the starboard side for the homeward voyage1 as going eastwards the heat of the sun falls on the starboard side necessarily for the greater part of the day1 while going westwards of course the reverse is the case4 ,this applies more particularly to the ,red ,sea4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,passage ,,of ,,the ,,red ,,sea 7,therm3 #hh or so67 ,on ,november #cjth we passed the island of ,jubbelteer1 on which was a lighthouse1 and later1 8,the ,twelve ,apostles10 a series of rocky volcanic-looking islands of bold and angular outline1 and apparently barren4 ,sea-birds1 however1 were seen with black and white bodies and brown wings flying close to the water4 ,on ,december the #ast we passed ,mocha1 of coffee celebrity1 and the island of ,perrim1 where there are lighthouses and signal stations1 but1 like the other islands we had seen1 otherwise desolate in the extreme4 ,later the ,arabian coast came into view and the sea was dotted with the sails of ,arab dhows4 ,the coast as we approached ,aden showed volcanic-looking mountains1 striking in form and bold in outline1 with stretches of sand and rock between4 ,aden was reached about #b ,p4,m41 a school of dolphins playing about the ship as if to welcome our arrival4 ,aden looked a queer uninviting place1 baked dry by the sun--a cluster of temporary and barrack-like buildings huddled together anyhow along the rocky coast1 with never a tree to be seen2 the ragged1 precipitous1 barren edges of extinct volcanoes forming a background to the red-roofed barracks and bungalows4 ,several large white warships lay at anchor in the harbour1 and lent a touch of gay colour by being decked with strings of bunting from stem to stern in honour of our ,queen ,alexandra's birthday4 ,a ,german liner got in just before us and we saw the coal lighters being rowed up to her4 8,la ,nera0 coaled here also1 but it was a less grimy proceeding than at ,port ,said1 as the coal was in sacks4 ,the type of coolies1 too1 was very different1 and there were many ,african negroes 7,soumalis7 among them1 whose skins could hardly be made blacker than they were by nature4 ,in addition to its cluster of coaling lighters1 our vessel1 now at anchor1 was soon surrounded by boats filled with natives who swarmed round the gangways1 and soon invaded the ship--a crowd of ,soumali traders offering ostrich feathers and feather fans 7of a ,european look71 ostrich eggs1 wicker bottle-shaped baskets1 shell necklaces1 and amber beads1 who drove their trade amongst the passengers on deck1 whilst others endeavoured to catch their eyes from the boats4 ,thin1 lithe young natives with fuzzy hair were very numerous1 and some had dyed their hair red1 which had a grotesque effect with the black skin4 ,i noted a strange contrast in the same boat1 too1 which contained two natives1 one of whom wore a sort of large-checked suit of pyjamas with his mop of red-dyed hair1 while his companion had his head clean shaved with 8nodings on06 ,some natives seemed to have used face powder--at any rate had smeared some kind of whitening over their countenances with ghastly effect4 ,illustration3 ,,in ,,the ,,same ,,boat--,a ,,contrast ,,at ,,aden ,the scene was a strange one altogether4 ,the crowd of ,europeans on deck1 in which nearly every nationality was represented1 mostly clad in topis and white garments1 the black traders moving about them2 the swarm of boats at the sides of the vessel full of bright spots of colour--scarlet turbans1 white1 orange1 yellow1 and purple in the costumes--swaying on the turquoise-coloured sea2 brown-backed gulls flapping over the water and kites hovering over the harbour2 and all steeped in the bright sunshine of the ,east4 ,many of the passengers went ashore in the native boats1 but the scene seemed more amusing from the ship and we remained on deck4 ,aden itself looked more interesting at night1 with bright lights here and there on the shore and on the ships1 and the rising moon translated everything into terms of mystery and romance4 ,i watched an ,arab dhow set sail4 ,it is one of the most beautiful of sailing vessels1 and has a high old-fashioned poop--the line of the gunwale making a fine curve from stem to stern--a mainmast with a big lateen sail1 two jibs on a short bowsprit1 and a secondary smaller mast astern4 ,the sun set behind the ,arabian coast1 the jagged peaks of which we had previously passed4 ,the coaling did not finish till nightfall4 ,the coolies seemed to undertake all the mechanical arrangements for the work1 fixing the hauling gear and the necessary ropes and planks1 and often in the process seeming to hang on to the ship with little more than their eyelids4 ,when they pulled a rope together the cry to keep time sounded like 8,leesah60 or 8,leeshah60 with emphasis on the first syllable4 ,the coaling finished1 and the curious swarm of native life that had surrounded us departed1 8,la ,nera0 weighed anchor and pursued her course eastwards1 skirting the rocky coast bathed in the moonlight as she made for the open ,arabian ,sea4 ,the next day in the early morning we had sight of some flying-fish4 ,they have almost the appearance of swallows at a distance1 especially when seen against the light1 but1 glancing1 as they leap out of the water1 to disappear into it again very quickly1 they flash in the sun like silver4 ,the ,arabian coast was still faintly visible towards the north1 but gradually faded from view4 ,the pleasant light breeze continued and it was not nearly so hot as in the ,red ,sea1 in fact quite pleasant either on deck or below--especially with a 8windle0 fixed to the cabin port4 ,we had made an interesting acquaintance on board1 a ,french gentleman who knew ,india well and who was on his way to revisit that country1 intending to join an ,english friend there on a shooting expedition4 ,he was an old sportsman and had shot big game in ,tibet4 ,he united the keenness and experience of a sportsman with literary tastes and a love of history and archology4 ,this gentleman introduced us to 8the green ray10 a phenomenon peculiar to the ,eastern seas1 ,i believe4 ,just at the moment when the sun disappears beneath the horizon there is the appearance of a vivid green spark flashing like a gem which seems to detach itself from the glowing orb and fly upward1 instantly disappearing in the reddening haze4 ,we witnessed this on several occasions1 but in order to see it a clear sunset is absolutely necessary--that is to say that one must be able to see the sun sink below the horizon clear of cloud4 ,the lovely moonlight nights continued1 the moon being now ahead1 and the apparent goal of the vessel's course4 ,one night1 however1 was disturbed by the steamer stopping in mid-ocean4 ,one gets so accustomed to the throb of the engines on board a steamer that its sudden cessation is quite startling4 ,passengers clustered near the engine-room to learn the cause1 which turned out to be something wrong with 8a washer0 which affected the movement of the shaft4 ,after about three hours this was repaired and the 8,nera0 continued her course4 ,she generally made about #cjj miles in the twenty-four hours4 ,incidents in the ,indian ,ocean were few and far between4 ,flying-fish were to be seen1 but only in the early morning as a rule2 a whale was noticed spouting1 and two sharks were sighted4 ,i saw1 too1 a large turtle turn over close to the ship's side1 but such sights very occasionally varied the wide seascape1 and many were glad to turn to deck games or bridge for diversion1 if they could not find it in books1 or in observing their fellow passengers4 ,illustration3 ,,some ,,types ,,among ,,our ,,fellow ,,passengers ,certainly amongst these latter there was no want of interest or variety2 they were quite an international group1 and included ,english and ,anglo-,indians returning after leave of absence in ,europe to take up their official duties1 civil or military1 on new appointments with their wives and families2 a large proportion of ,french 7it being a ,french steamer72 then there were ,portuguese and ,dutch 7going out to ,australia71 ,germans and ,canadians1 ,armenians from ,rangoon1 and ,indians from ,bombay2 several ,armenian priests also1 probably missionaries2 there were negroes and ,arabs in the fo'castle1 and among the second-class passengers a characteristic group of ,english workmen--foremen engineers and navvies4 ,they were bound for ,bombay1 having been engaged to direct coolie labour on new and extensive docks at that port1 their contract being for three years1 and their passage paid4 ,i think they got very tired of doing nothing and did not feel quite happy with the ,french dinners1 although the heaviest man of the party made it a rule to devour everything that was set before him1 taking ,saint ,paul's advice1 and 8asking no questions40 ,i think all the ages of man--and woman--were represented on board1 including more than one infant 8mewling and puling in its nurse's arms40 ,a little sample of the big world chipped off and sent adrift on the ocean--a ship of life1 not without its enigmas1 its little ironies and uncertainties1 tossed upon the very type of uncertainty--the sea4 ,a ship1 however1 is a castle of indolence as far as the passengers are concerned1 though the crew1 ,i suspect1 would tell a very different story1 as1 apart from the severe work of the engineers and stokers1 their work never seems at an end1 and it is only by constant washing1 scrubbing1 and sweeping that a steamer can be kept decently clean and habitable4 ,to break the monotony of the five days' voyage on the ,indian ,ocean a concert was got up by an energetic young lady and her friends4 ,they went round the ship to discover what hidden musical or histrionic talent might be concealed under the more or less disguised personalities of the passengers1 and they succeeded in drawing out enough for an evening's entertainment on the saloon deck1 which was picturesquely draped with bunting for the occasion1 and a piano was wheeled into position4 ,various songs were given1 and a ,french princess1 who was among the passengers1 recited4 ,the young lady who had been the leading spirit in organising the concert herself gave some charming songs which she accompanied on a guitar1 and a pretty song in ,japanese costume and umbrella from 8,the ,geisha10 ,i think1 with much spirit4 ,the proceeds went to the benefit of the orphans of the ,messageries ,maritimes sailors4 ,after this violent excitement the days passed as days do at sea1 the fine weather continuing with delightful monotony4 ,the fresh easterly breeze was strong enough to fleck the blue plain with 8white horses10 yet not cause any trying movement of the vessel1 which ploughed steadily through the waves1 driving the spray from its bows1 and causing dancing rainbows on the foamy crests as they rebounded from the ship's side4 ,the sun rising in clear glory from the sea1 disappeared each evening in tranquil splendour1 showing the green ray1 and the deep red along the horizon in the west afterwards1 over the dark blue sea4 ,the dark blue above and the illuminated sky between1 recalled the favourite effect in ,japanese prints by ,hiroshigi1 and at the same time testified to its truth4 ,but all things have an end1 even ocean voyages1 and about four o'clock on the morning of ,friday1 ,december the #gth1 our steamer slowed down and took on board the pilot1 and we1 cautiously steering past mysterious islands under the dawn1 finally cast anchor in ,bombay harbour4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,bombay ,,and ,,the ,,caves ,,of ,,ellora ,the first impression of ,bombay from the sea is perhaps a little disappointing from the pictorial point of view4 ,the town spreads along the low flat coast1 lined with long quays without any great domes or conspicuous noble buildings4 ,one is aware of wharves and factory chimneys1 and even the palms and gardens of ,malabar ,hill1 and blue mountains inland do not altogether mitigate the commercial and industrial aspects of the place2 but the light and colour of the ,east fuse all sorts of incongruities1 and the feeling of touching a strange land and of setting foot for the first time in ,india is sufficiently exciting to throw a sort of glamour over everything4 ,the steamers cannot disembark their passengers at the quays1 so they have to be landed in boats which cluster about the sides of the big liner4 ,the official tug comes alongside first1 and the official visit is paid4 ,we were due the evening before1 and inquiries as to the why and wherefore of the delay had to be satisfied4 ,busy agents and eager hotel touts come on board1 and all is bustle and preparation for landing4 ,illustration3 ,,landing ,,at ,,bombay ,our ,indian friend had been unexpectedly called away and was unable to meet us1 but he committed us to the care of other friends at ,bombay4 ,we landed1 however1 with our friend the ,french explorer1 with all our baggage1 in a native boat1 and by dint of a ragged lateen sail and oars plied by a swarthy1 wild-looking crew1 soon reached the quay1 where a crowd of coolies waited to spring upon our belongings4 ,illustration3 ,,awaiting ,,the ,,customs--,,bombay ,our ,french friend spoke ,hindustanee fluently1 fortunately for us2 and amid the clamour of tongues which surrounded us1 was able to arrange for an ox-cart to take our united baggage to the ,custom-,house1 where1 after an interview with some languid ,english officials clad in white drill and topis1 having nothing contraband1 we were duly passed1 though our friend1 possessing firearms1 was delayed longer1 and of course had to pay4 ,the ,bombay ox-carts are two-wheeled with high sides of timber1 forming a square open lattice1 and drawn by a pair of oxen4 ,committing our worldly goods to this delightful prehistoric vehicle1 we took a carriage--a little1 one-horse1 open victoria1 which is the street cab of ,bombay1 and similar to those in use in the towns of ,italy--and drove to the ,taj ,mahal ,hotel1 a vast1 new1 modern caravanserai--which1 however1 was quite full1 so we went on to the old-established 8,watson's0 on the ,esplanade1 where we got a good room with a balcony and a view4 ,there was also a pleasant covered terrace1 or verandah1 extending the whole length of the building1 which on the north side1 always in shade1 faced a garden green with well-watered lawns and thickly planted with umbrageous mango and banyan trees1 amid which the ubiquitous crows of ,india 7resembling our hooded crow7 kept up a continual cawing chorus as they flitted about1 now swooping down on some ill-considered trifle in the street1 or perching expectantly about the hotel precincts1 on the lookout for scattered crumbs4 ,great brown kites hovered in the air1 forming a second line of watchful but silent scavengers4 ,the terrace also commanded a view of the street with all its varied types in costume1 race1 and colour and character4 ,the prosperous1 sleek ,parsee merchant in his curious shiny1 sloping high hat1 long black alpaca or white tunic1 and loose white nether garments and umbrella2 ,europeans in white drill and grey or white pith helmets1 which gave a superficial family likeness to all who wore them2 native servants1 ,hindu1 ,portuguese1 and half-caste1 in every variety of turban and costume1 sitting or standing about in groups1 waiting to be hired2 wandering minstrels1 dancing women1 and jugglers and tumblers trying to catch the eye--and the small change--of the traveller2 men with tom-toms and performing monkeys1 water-carriers with their dripping goat-skin slung at their side1 coolies and coolie women constantly passing to and fro from the quays1 bearing their burdens on their heads2 the bearer and the ayah in charge of faired-haired ,english children1 passing in and out of the gardens2 the ,british soldier in khaki1 and the native policeman in blue with a flat yellow cap4 ,these and such as these were the prevailing types in the scene from the hotel balcony1 from whence1 also1 we could see the tram-cars1 drawn by horses in big white topis1 trailing up and down the ,esplanade1 while motors flashed by1 and smart ,european ladies drove in their dog-carts4 ,beyond the trees of the garden rose a modern clock tower which told the burning hours in the familiar ,westminster chimes4 ,illustration3 ,,street ,,performers--,,bombay ,the modern ,british buildings of ,bombay would probably in newspaper language be described as 8handsome40 ,there were many showy and pretentious structures in a sort of ,italian ,gothic style1 but they looked imported1 and were decidedly out of place in a country which possesses such magnificent specimens of architecture of its own growth--as one might say4 ,the many balconied and shuttered fronts1 with projecting stories1 the ridge-tiled roofs and plastered walls that we saw in the older quarters of the town seemed1 as types of dwelling-houses at least1 much more suitable and characteristic1 and such types would surely be capable of adaptation to modern requirements4 ,the ,crawford ,market is one of the sights of ,bombay4 ,outside1 with its steep roofs1 belfry1 and projecting eaves it has a rather ,english ,gothic look1 but inside the scene is entirely oriental1 crowded with natives in all sorts of colours1 moving among fish1 fruit1 grain1 and provisions of all kinds1 buying and selling amid a clamour of tongues--a busy scene of colour and variety1 in a symphony of smells1 dominated by that of the smoke of joss-sticks kept burning at some of the stalls as well as a suspicion of opium1 which pervades all the native quarters in ,indian cities4 ,there is a sort of court or garden enclosed by the buildings1 and here the live stock is kept--all sorts of birds and animals4 ,a drive through the native bazaar of ,bombay is a revelation4 ,the carriage works its way with difficulty through the narrow1 irregular street1 crowded with natives in every variety of costume 7or next to no costume71 forming a wonderful moving pattern of brilliant colour1 punctuated by swarthy faces1 gleaming eyes1 and white teeth4 ,shops of every kind line each side of the way1 and these are rather dark and cavernous openings1 shaded by awnings and divided by posts or carved pillars on the lowest story1 but raised from the level of the streets by low platforms which serve the purposes of counter and working bench to the native merchant or craftsman who squats upon it1 and often unites the two functions in his own person4 ,he generally carries on his work in the presence of his whole family1 apparently4 ,all ages and sexes crowd in and about the shops1 carrying on a perpetual conversazione1 and the bazaar literally swarms with dusky1 turbaned faces1 varied by the deep red sari of the ,hindu women1 with their glittering armlets and anklets1 or the veiled ,mohammedan in her--well1 pyjamas6 ,the older house fronts above the shops were often rich with carving and colour1 the upper stories being generally supported over the open shop by four columns4 ,it reminded one of the arrangement of a medival street1 as also in its general aspect1 the shops being mostly workshops2 and1 as in the old days in ,europe1 could be seen different crafts in full operation1 while the finished products of each were displayed for sale4 ,there were tailors stitching away at garments1 coppersmiths hammering their metal into shape1 leather workers1 jewellers1 cook-shops1 and many more1 the little dark shops in most cases being crowded with other figures besides those of the workers--each like a miniature stage of life with an abundance of drama going on in all4 ,the whole bazaar1 too1 was gay with colour--white1 green1 red1 orange1 yellow1 and purple1 of all sorts of shades and tones1 in turban or robe--a perfect feast for the eye4 ,in the course of our drive through the bazaar we met no less than three wedding processions1 though rather broken and interrupted by the traffic4 ,in one the bridegroom 7who1 with the ,hindus and ,mohammedans1 is considered the most important personage in the ceremony as well as the spectacle7 was in a carriage1 on his way to fetch the bride1 in gorgeous raiment and with a crown upon his head4 ,he was followed by people bearing floral trophies1 perhaps intended for decoration afterwards4 ,these consisted of gilt vases with artificial flowers in them1 arranged in rows close together1 and carried in convenient lengths on a plank or shelf by young men bearers4 ,another of the bridegrooms was mounted on a horse1 crowned and robed like a ,byzantine emperor with glittering caparisons and housings1 a tiny little dusky girl sitting behind him and holding on1 who was said to be his little sister4 ,the third bridegroom we saw was veiled1 in addition to the bravery of his glittering attire4 ,flowers were strewn by boys accompanying him1 and a little bunch fell into our carriage as we waited for the procession to go by1 in which1 of course1 the musicians went before4 ,we afterwards passed the house where the wedding was being celebrated1 the guests assembling in great numbers to the feast1 a tremendous noise going on1 drums beating and trumpets blowing4 ,in one of the processions very antique-looking trumpets or horns were carried of a large size1 much resembling the military horns of ancient ,roman times4 ,these were ,hindu weddings4 ,we also had a glimpse of a ,parsee wedding4 ,this was in the open court of a large house arcaded from the street1 brilliantly illuminated1 where sat a great crowd of guests all attired in white4 ,working right through the native bazaar we reached the ,victoria ,gardens1 a sort of ,kew and ,zoological rolled into one1 being well stocked with fine palms and many varieties of tropical trees1 as well as birds and animals1 and all looking in good condition and well kept4 ,many ,eurasians were here walking about1 looking very weird in ,european dress4 ,in these gardens are situated the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum of ,bombay4 ,sir ,george ,birdwood had given me an introduction to ,h4,h4 the ,aga ,khan and we drove out to his abode1 only to find1 however1 that ,his ,highness had gone to ,calcutta on his way to ,japan4 ,i was not much more fortunate with my other introductions to the eminent ,parsee ,sir ,jamsetji ,jijibhai1 and ,sir ,cowasji ,jehangir ,readymoney4 ,although the son of the latter magnate did call upon us and brought us an invitation from ,lady ,jehangir1 we were unable to accept it owing to the shortness of our stay in ,bombay4 ,i understood that the ,calcutta ,races in ,december attracted a great many of the rich ,bombay residents1 and this accounted for the absence from their homes of many at that time4 ,we had a glimpse of some of the palaces on ,malabar ,hill1 seeing the latter first against a glowing sunset4 ,fringed with palms and plantains1 with its fantastic buildings silhouetted on the sky1 it recalled the banks of storm cloud ,i had seen on the voyage1 with their vaporous trees and aerial hanging gardens4 ,a closer acquaintance did not impress us with any conviction of the healthiness of ,malabar ,hill1 though of the sumptuousness of its houses1 and often their fantastic character1 and the luxuriance of its palms and gardens1 there could be no doubt4 ,we passed the grey wall of the ,tower of ,silence1 the burial 787 place of the ,parsees1 where the crows1 the kites1 and the vultures were gathered together1 but did not linger there4 ,from the hill there is certainly a magnificent view of the city of ,bombay3 especially if seen just before sundown1 when a golden glow seems to transfigure the scene2 and later1 looking down on the vast plain1 the white houses partly hid in trees scattered along the shore1 the quays1 and the ships at anchor in the bay1 all seem to sink like a dream into the roseate atmosphere of sunset4 ,but even that lovely light is darkened by a heavy smoke cloud drifting on the city from the forest of gaunt factory chimneys rising in the ,east like the shadow of poverty which is always cast by the riches of the ,west4 ,one rather wondered that ,bombay was content to allow its best drive to be disfigured by a continuous succession of hideous commercial posters painted along the walls of one of its sides1 the other being lined with palms and open towards the sea4 ,this is1 however1 not worse indifference--in fact not so bad--as ours at home in allowing the posters along the railway lines to disfigure the charming and varied landscape of our own country4 ,illustration3 ,,interview ,,with ,,candidates ,,for ,,the ,,post ,,of ,,bearer--,,mostly ,,unbearable6 ,one of the first necessities to the traveller in ,india1 especially if he be ignorant of ,hindustanee1 is the engaging of a native bearer or servant4 ,there is always a large class of these seeking engagements4 ,they may be seen hanging about ,messrs ,cook's ,tourist ,offices in groups4 ,they usually wear white clothes and turbans1 but the half-caste ,portuguese are dressed in semi-,european fashion with their cloth suits and small1 flat1 round caps of the sort which used to be termed 8pork pie0 in ,england1 only lower4 ,these are embroidered round the rim1 and a similar sort of head covering is also worn by superior caste ,hindus4 ,for the post of bearer the traveller will find plenty of applicants when he makes his requirements known1 in fact their number is rather embarrassing1 and they all produce 8chits0 or letters of recommendation from former employers4 ,these1 indeed1 are the only references to go upon1 unless one happens to come with the personal testimony of a friend4 ,the bearers mostly register their names at ,cook's offices1 but they do not take any responsibility there for them in any way4 ,these native servants expect #ce rupees 7and upwards7 a month1 with an allowance for clothes1 but out of this pay they find their own food4 ,if1 however1 their food is provided1 they take less pay--about #be rupees--but prices generally have an upward tendency4 ,the engagement may probably be for three or four months1 which gives the ordinary ,european tourist time to get round ,india1 visiting the principal places of interest en route4 ,a rupee in ,india is now only worth one shilling and four-pence1 and fifteen rupees are the equivalent of a sovereign1 it should be remembered4 ,of course the bearer's travelling expenses and washing are paid as long as he is with his master1 and his fare home when his engagement comes to an end1 and then1 too1 probably he would get a present if his conduct has been satisfactory4 ,one does not generally expect mirrors of virtue and trustiness on such terms4 ,no doubt native bearers vary considerably in capacity and experience as well as in appearance1 to say nothing of honesty and fidelity1 and some are better as couriers than as body or camp servants1 or vice versa4 ,some claim to be efficient valets des places in addition to ordinary services1 but it should be remembered that the bearer caste are not allowed to enter the sacred precincts of the great temples in ,india4 ,our choice1 influenced mainly by a personal recommendation1 fell on one ,moonsawmy--a not unusual ,hindu name4 ,he had been in the service of ,sir ,samuel ,baker and had had some experience in tiger-shooting1 or at any rate had been out on such expeditions and in camp with the famous traveller and sportsman1 but he had also acted as courier to ,english parties travelling in ,india1 and professed to know the country well4 ,we had planned an excursion to the caves of ,ellora from ,bombay with our friend ,m4 ,dauvergne1 who had never seen them and was anxious to do so4 ,having mapped out our route we started on our expedition on ,december the #ajth4 ,leaving ,victoria ,station1 ,bombay1 at noon1 we travelled by the ,g4 ,i4 ,p4 7,great ,indian ,peninsular ,railway71 making our first train journey in ,india4 ,the line crossed a cultivated plain at first1 getting clear of ,bombay2 groups of date palms here and there were suggestive of ,egypt4 ,we passed native villages of different types1 some with thatched roofs and some with tile--brown ridge tiles not unlike what one sees in ,italy1 and even corrugated iron was visible 7alas67 here and there4 ,the low huts built of sun-dried bricks or mud with flat roofs were the strangest and most eastern-looking4 ,one could get glimpses1 too1 of the inhabitants1 the ,hindu women in saris1 often of red or purple or blue1 bearing on their heads water jars or bright brass or copper vessels1 with much natural grace1 some also carrying little brown babies supported by one arm on their hip4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,bed ,,at ,,the ,,dak ,,bungalow6 ,,munmad 7,,keep ,,it ,,da7,r7,k7 ,leaving the plains we entered a very interesting hill country covered with jungle and forests where we saw many teak trees and banyans1 besides many varieties of acacia4 ,mountains of striking form came into view1 suggestive of castled crags4 ,we soon afterwards passed the ,thull ,ghat1 where the line rises as much as #ajej feet in a distance of about ten miles--which means a steep gradient4 ,we passed rice fields1 also sugar canes1 and a kind of ,indian corn1 but not maize1 and castor-oil plants which are cultivated extensively4 ,there were interesting and picturesque groups of natives at all the stations4 ,finally ,munmad was reached towards six o'clock in the evening4 ,this was our first stage1 and the junction for ,daulatabad our next1 in the territory of the ,nizam of ,hyderabad4 ,we1 however1 decided to stay the night at ,munmad and go on the next morning--in fact1 if ,i remember right1 it was a case of necessity1 as there was no train on that evening4 ,so we were conducted to the ,dak ,bungalow1 some little walk from the station1 through a native village1 with our baggage carried on the heads of women coolies4 ,we found the bungalow a most inhospitable place of incredible bareness1 and nothing to sleep on but narrow wooden framed couches1 having a sort of stringy webbing full of holes4 ,the gaunt draughty rooms were almost destitute of other furniture and had no conveniences of any kind4 ,the native keeper of the place seemed helpless4 ,there was no food to be had1 and he could not have cooked it if there had been1 so we had to make shift as best we could with what we had in our tea baskets4 ,i should not advise any one to travel in ,india1 at least at all off the track of hotels1 without provisions and bedding4 ,there was not much sleep to be had that night4 ,the beds were frightfully uncomfortable and the room was cold4 ,an ,anglo-,indian official on the forest service occupied the best room1 we afterwards discovered1 but he1 as is usual1 travelled with his horses and several servants1 including a cook1 and a supply of necessaries of all sorts4 ,we left the inhospitable bungalow early the next morning1 processing through the village in the same way as that in which we had come1 with our baggage on the heads of the coolie women4 ,we made the acquaintance at ,munmad of the charming1 frisky little palm squirrels which abound everywhere in ,india--delightful little greenish-grey creatures with dark longitudinal stripes extending from their noses to their tails4 ,they play about the dwellings quite familiarly1 but are off like a shot up a tree and out of sight at the smallest alarm4 ,scaling the trunk of a tree spirally1 they have almost the appearance of lizards1 and they are certainly as nimble4 ,the buffalo cow1 too1 is seen in every ,indian village1 a strange1 dusky1 rough-coated beast1 with a weird1 half-human1 but rather sinister expression in its dark eyes1 with long horns turned back upon their necks4 ,they walk scornfully along to be milked1 with an air which seems to say they thought the world but a poor place4 ,we took train to ,daulatabad and entered the ,nizam's territory4 ,a police officer in his service was in the train1 and was very intelligent and gave us much useful information4 ,we now passed through a more arid-looking country than before1 where cactuses and low trees grew sparsely on burnt yellow slopes and rocky hills1 often of strange form1 the country showing signs of a great upheaval from the sea4 ,at ,daulatabad1 a small road station1 a tonga was waiting for us1 drawn by two poor broken-down ponies and a rather ragged red-turbaned driver4 ,our destination was the town of ,rozah1 a drive of some ten miles and mostly uphill1 on a loose1 rough road4 ,a conspicuous object in the landscape at ,daulatabad is the ancient fortress upon a steep hill rising abruptly from the plain4 ,it was a famous stronghold1 but was conquered by the ,mohammedans in the thirteenth century4 ,there are the ruins of the ancient city which it once protected1 and within the citadel are remains of ,hindu temples1 one transformed into a mosque by the ,moslems4 ,our road lay through the shattered gates which still marked the extent of the city with fragments of the outer walls1 the whole area overgrown with trees and herbage1 and clusters of native huts here and there4 ,the road to ,rozah is an almost continuous ascent1 and in some places very steep1 which made it very hard work for the wretched ponies which dragged our tonga1 though1 of course1 we relieved it of our weight by walking up the worst hills4 ,the sun was blazing1 but there was a little shade to be had occasionally under the fine banyan trees which skirted the roadside4 ,towards evening we saw the domes of ,rozah on a high plateau in front of us1 and presently entered the town through a battlemented gate4 ,it was a ,mohammedan town with many important domed tombs1 but it had a neglected and sparsely peopled aspect and a look of departed splendour4 ,we made our way along a straggling street1 and1 passing through another gate1 came out upon the other end of the plateau1 from which we saw1 opening before us as far as the eye could reach towards the west1 the vast1 green1 fruitful plains of the ,deccan4 ,in command of this view we found our quarters for the night--the ,travellers' ,bungalow--but this1 the ,nizam's bungalow1 was a great contrast to the one at ,munmad1 being clean and comfortable1 with good beds and sufficient furniture and rugs1 and a bath-room4 ,the native in charge was able to provide food1 too1 and to cook a dinner1 which1 if not exactly ,parisian1 was1 at all events1 a vast improvement upon our last one4 ,the sun set without a cloud1 the last golden light lingering upon the white and black domes of the tombs around us4 ,then followed the afterglow1 and then the darkness fell like a curtain1 but the stars were intensely bright in the clear sky4 ,the air was very pure and the silence of the place was profound4 ,we were glad to rest after our long1 hot1 dusty journey1 but ,i managed to get a sketch done before the light went4 ,after breakfast the next morning 7,december #ab7 we started to walk to the caves at ,ellora1 which we found were only a short distance down the hill4 ,a winding road led us past another of the ,nizam's bungalows to a sort of terrace in front of the first great cave1 or1 more properly1 rock-cut temple1 the ,kylas1 which1 coming down the hill from above1 one does not see until close upon it1 and it is only on entering the court through the great gateway that one slowly realises the wonder of it4 ,a huge temple of symmetric ground plan cut clean out of the great cliff1 the straight sides of which are seen rising like a vast wall above it4 ,a mass of intricate and richly carved detail1 a veritable incrustation of carving of extraordinary richness rises before one4 ,standing clear in a spacious court1 enclosed on three sides by a deep arcade cut in the sheer sides of the cliff 7which shows the tool marks71 having an outer row of massive detached columns and an inner row of engaged columns1 and deep recessed chambers4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,kylas1 ,,caves ,,of ,,ellora ,on each side of the entrance to the temple in the court stand two isolated columns or pylons1 and near these two great stone elephants4 ,these columns and elephants really flank a big pedestal of stone with steps cut in it which lead up to a huge image of a ,sacred ,bull within a square chamber1 from which a bridge is crossed and the portico of the temple is reached4 ,through this the great central hall1 or nave1 of the temple is entered1 divided into four parts by groups of pillars1 leaving an open passage up the middle and across to a portico on each side4 ,from this chamber a few steps lead to the shrine of the ,lingam1 through a doorway4 ,there are steps and doorways to each side of the shrine which lead on to open platforms1 where are five recesses richly covered with sculptures of the ,hindu mythology1 as indeed is the whole temple1 both within and without4 ,the carved treatment and the whole idea of the scheme suggests that the original prototypes of such temples must have been structures of wood1 and the elaborate treatment and small scale of some of the ornamental work seems reminiscent of wood-carving4 ,illustration3 ,,we ,,are ,,introduced ,,to ,,the ,,caves ,,of ,,ellora ,the carved work may be said to be of two kinds4 ,there was a sort of architectural or formal ornament in low relief resembling in style and treatment ,assyrian work1 in which the lotus frequently appeared treated as a flat rosette and used as pater1 arranged in rows with intervals2 and there was a high relief treatment of figure sculpture4 ,among the horizontal courses of carved decoration ,i noted a treatment of the garland or swag1 the ends being twisted through rings from which they were represented as depending4 ,these might have been of a ,greek or ,roman pattern4 ,the exterior carving of the temple in the parts sheltered under eaves and by doorways showed traces of painting--the colours being red and green on white4 ,the whole of the surfaces appear to have been coated with plaster to receive colour1 in the same way as may be seen at the temple of ,castor and ,pollux at ,girgenti4 ,the stone when exposed to the weather was very much blackened and resembled the gritstone of ,derbyshire in colour and texture4 ,the ,temple was dedicated to ,siva1 but the whole ,hindu pantheon of the ,vedic gods appeared to be sculptured in this marvellous place1 as well as the different avators of ,siva4 ,the ,hindu religion is really a great system of nature worship1 all the powers1 forces1 and influences being personified and symbolised1 nothing being accounted 8common or unclean0--the elephant-headed ,ganesha and the monkey god ,hunuman taking their place as 8eligible deities0--the whole scheme resting on the acknowledgment of the sexual origin of life4 ,the generative organs themselves being revered as sacred1 and symbolised in the mysterious ,lingam which is enshrined in all the ,hindu temples1 and the object of special devotion4 ,the god ,siva and ,parvati his spouse form the principal subject among the sculptures of the ,kylas4 ,a striking design rather ,egyptian in feeling was to be seen in a large carved panel of ,parvati represented as seated on the water1 or rather on a mass of lotus leaves and flowers--the flower of life--with attendant elephants symmetrically arranged on each side1 showering water upon the goddess from their trunks4 ,in all countries religious symbols are taken from familiar and characteristic objects common to each1 although1 as ,count ,goblet d',albiella points out in his most interesting and learned work on the 8,migration of ,symbols10 there is also a process of exchange and adaptation in ideas between different peoples and countries by means of which we get imported types1 which1 however1 become naturalised and reappear in the form or convention peculiar to the country of their adoption4 ,illustration3 ,,and ,,its ,,wasps6 ,as we gazed up at the cliffs from which this wonderful structure had been hewn1 we noticed a number of green parrots fluttering about or clinging to the sheer walls of rock--like vivid green flashes of light upon the cold stone4 ,down in the court a number of extraordinarily large-sized wasps came buzzing about us4 ,they looked formidable enough but did not do any damage1 though their obtrusion did not facilitate the process of a sketching against time4 ,besides the ,kylas1 which is said to date from about #gej-hej ,a4,d41 there were a number of other and smaller temples1 cut in the face of the cliff at intervals extending along the hill on each side of the ,kylas4 ,the most ancient is supposed to date from #bjj ,b4,c4 and the latest from the thirteenth century ,a4,d4 ,a guide on the spot showed us several ,buddhist temples and these were much more cave-like in character4 ,one had very fine massive carved and fluted columns4 ,the second temple we saw suggested in its plan and form an apsidal basilica1 and in detail wooden structure1 the roof being carved in close ribs1 curved to the form of a pointed arch1 supported by a horizontal cornice and columns set very close together4 ,a colossal figure of the seated ,buddha filled the view at the end of the nave1 but there was an ambulatory behind it4 ,the figure was painted a dark red with white drapery and black hair1 the eyes1 with strongly marked white and black pupils1 had a fixed stare which carried the whole length of the ,temple4 ,the next temple visited1 also ,buddhistic1 was much plainer1 and was being supported by new buttresses of masonry to prevent the cliff from falling4 ,the third was larger but also quite plain and square cut1 the structure of the pillars and cornice being again on timber principles2 but none approached the ,kylas in beauty and interest4 ,the village of ,ellora lay on the plain among trees about a mile and a half away from the foot of the cliff4 ,our guide pointed out some ,jain temples there half hidden in masses of foliage and suggested a walk there1 but by this time1 between #aj and #aa o'clock in the morning1 the sun was very powerful and the heat great1 and as there was no shade till the village was reached and we had to get back to our bungalow1 we gave it up and climbed the hill again4 ,as we left the ,kylas a large and most picturesque group of natives were squatted outside the gateway having a sort of picnic1 a day out with their wives and numerous children1 and they were wandering all over the temple chattering and laughing as they examined the sculptures and seemingly enjoying themselves much4 ,they gazed at us curiously as we passed1 as at some strange animals from an unknown country4 ,m4 ,dauvergne took some photographs of the caves1 while ,i managed to get a coloured sketch of the ,kylas1 and a few notes4 ,we found the return journey to ,daulatabad rather easier1 being mostly downhill1 though it was so precipitous in places that it was a marvel our poor ponies kept on their legs4 ,we met many natives on the road1 both ,mohammedans and ,hindus1 as well as herds of goats1 and asses with sacks of grain slung across their backs1 black sheep and zebu carts4 ,we reached ,daulatabad station about the middle of the day1 or early afternoon1 and were fortunate enough 7owing to the language at the command of our friend who explained our wants7 to get quite an excellently cooked and nicely served tiffin in the waiting-room4 ,there were interesting native figures about the station1 and a group of figures at the village well not far off1 where ,i got a sketch of a ,hindu girl in a blue sari with a water jar on her head4 ,she had a little round mark 7,buddhist7 like a red seal on her forehead1 and her name was ,hashuma4 ,we got a train about #e4cj back to ,munmad arriving there soon after #i at night4 ,after dining at the station we bade farewell to our friend ,m4 ,dauvergne1 who was travelling on to ,bareilly1 far up in the north-western provinces to join his shooting companion4 ,our train from ,bombay did not leave until #c ,a4,m41 but sleep was impossible owing to the noise1 although we had a waiting-room to ourselves4 ,it was only the usual conversazione which is carried on at every ,indian station by the natives who throng the platforms1 often waiting all night for a train1 squatting in groups and keeping up a continual stream of talk4 ,we were relieved when a faithful coolie announced the arrival of our train and carried in our bags4 ,we had a compartment to ourselves for the most part until nearing ,bombay1 our only fellow-passengers being at different times a very quiet ,hindu1 and a ,british officer of the ,royal ,scots who did not travel far4 ,but1 before we got in1 the carriage became crowded with every variety of costume1 ,parsee and ,hindu merchants getting in for ,bombay1 until we were quite full up and--oh6 so hot4 ,glad we were to get in at last1 but not till noon--the hottest time of day--feeling rather fagged after our long journey4 ,the heat in ,bombay is very oppressive even in the so-called cool season4 ,we generally lived in a temperature of about #hh1 this in the dining-room being mitigated by electric fans2 but it is always a relief when the sun declines1 and a drive in the cool of the evening is delightful4 ,we planned a rather extensive tour1 and with the assistance of ,messrs ,cook1 worked out a complete itinerary through ,india1 ending at ,ceylon1 from whence we purposed to return in the following ,march4 ,illustration3 ,,arrival ,,of ,,mr4 ,,dadabhai ,,naoroji ,,at ,,bombay1 ,,dec4 #ad1 #aijf ,on ,december #ad ,m4 ,dadabhai ,naoroji arrived by the ,arcadia at ,bombay on his way to the ,national ,congress at ,calcutta of which he had been elected ,president4 ,he had a great welcome4 ,flags and triumphal arches were put up along the esplanade1 and he was brought from the ,taj ,mahal ,hotel in a motor car decorated with flowers4 ,an enormous crowd turned out to welcome him1 chiefly of the ,parsee community1 and ,parsees were conspicuous in the balconies of the houses and hotels along the route of the procession and parsee inscriptions of welcome hung across the streets4 ,it was a striking scene from our balcony altogether4 ,the last golden rays of the sun were slanting across the open esplanade alternating with broad luminous shadows and along the front streamed a vast white clad crowd--so different to the black crowds we are accustomed to in ,europe--a white crowd varied with notes of bright colour and black here and there1 and the red bunting floating around the bronze equestrian statue of ,king ,edward ,,vii4 in the foreground3 while the balconies were gay with ,parsee ladies in their delicate embroidered silks1 canary coloured1 pink1 blue1 green1 violet and scarlet4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,ahmedabad ,we left ,bombay for ,ahmedabad on ,december the #aeth4 ,finding that the best train was a night one1 and as it was a journey of some three hundred miles or more1 and time was an object1 we made up our minds1 though not given to night travelling1 to make an exception to our usual practice1 although we should lose the sight of the country by the way4 ,railway travelling in ,india is quite as comfortable as one might expect4 ,the carriages1 it is true1 vary on different lines and according to age1 but1 as a rule1 the trains have separate carriages for ,europeans and for different classes of natives1 and it is often quite possible to have an entire compartment even for a long distance4 ,on some lines the first-class carriages are scarcely better than the second1 but the fare is double4 ,the best carriages have compartments containing two long leather-covered seats1 each side under the windows1 which can be turned into sleeping couches at night4 ,there is a good space between them and also at the end between the doors1 and a lavatory is always attached4 ,above the seats are slung two upper berths1 so that the compartment could be arranged for four sleepers4 ,any amount of light luggage can be taken into the compartments by passengers1 but the heavy must be registered4 ,the windows are protected from the sun by ,venetian shutters1 which can be let up or down1 as well as glass1 clear or toned1 and sometimes fine wire screens4 ,outside there is a sort of hood1 between which and the tops of the windows is a space for air1 so that the fierce heat of the sun is tempered1 and the carriage shielded to a certain extent from its rays4 ,we found very well-appointed sleeping-cars to ,ahmedabad1 but divided into ladies' and gentlemen's compartments4 ,as it happened1 another couple were the only others travelling by the first-class sleeping-car besides ourselves1 so that we were able to arrange between ourselves that husbands and wives were not divided1 each pair having a compartment to themselves4 ,ahmedabad was reached about half-past seven in the morning4 ,a crowd of coolies usually rush to seize your baggage on the arrival of a train1 and our bearer was useful in keeping them at bay a bit4 ,there was a ,dak bungalow at ,ahmedabad1 but we did not feel any decided leaning towards it1 and1 finding there were quite decent bedrooms to be had at the station and that we could feed in the refreshment-room1 we decided to stay there4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,feet ,,of ,,pilgrims 7,,at ,,mohammedan ,,mosques7 ,carriages were to be had at from six to eight rupees a day1 and we engaged one and had a drive through the town1 stopping to see the mosques for which it is so famed4 ,the ,jama ,musjid had a splendid1 spacious court in front of it1 walled around1 the entrance being through a rather small door1 where it is necessary for the visitors either to put off their shoes or to consent to have enormous loose ones of grass or matting tied on over their own1 which seems to prevent desecration quite as efficiently4 ,the mosque had fifteen domes1 and inside was a forest of white pillars 7#bfj71 and a large gallery for the women1 screened with pierced stone-work in lovely patterns4 ,there were the marble tombs of ,ahmad ,shah--the builder of the mosque--and his son and grandson1 richly carved in delicate relief1 the sides being arcaded1 and under each arch the representation of a hanging lamp1 or censer1 some of the latter showing an ornamental treatment of smoke ascending from them4 ,the marble pavements had a peculiar fine dull polish1 noticeable in mosque pavements throughout ,india1 which is the result of the constant movement of the bare feet of the natives passing over their surface4 ,the tombs of the queens of ,ahmad ,shah were carved with remarkable fineness4 ,one1 inlaid with delicate trees in white marble or black1 was as fine as any ,persian cabinet work in ivory4 ,the ,queen's ,mosque1 with three domes1 contains charming carving and pierced screen-work4 ,the mosque of ,rani ,sipri and her tomb are marvellously rich in fine carving in red sandstone and screen-work1 and suggest in some of their forms and the rich incrustation of their ornament the influence of ,hindu work1 which1 indeed1 is a characteristic of many here4 ,beautiful pierced screens of stone-work1 divided into panels by the supporting columns1 enclose the tomb4 ,illustration3 ,,poor ,,relations ,for the loveliest designs1 however1 in pierced screen-work1 one still turns to those of the windows of the ,sidi ,sayyids' ,mosque1 especially to the two wherein palms and rose-trees are combined in a sort of natural formation to form a lovely mesh of intricate1 yet perfectly coherent and balanced pattern1 which fills the tympanum shape of low-arched windows2 a design in light on dark seen from the outside1 and in dark against light seen from within1 when it fulfils its purpose of breaking up the light of the sun1 and producing that enchanting luminous twilight so characteristic of ,eastern interiors4 ,there are reproductions of two of these windows at our ,indian ,museum at ,south ,kensington1 but ,i had long desired to see the originals1 and ,i was not disappointed4 ,the warm light of the late afternoon sun lingered in their interstices1 and1 seen from below1 the under sides of the marble fret took rich golden reflections1 which gave the designs quite a new aspect1 and filled them with life and colour1 giving the effect almost of sunlit foliage4 ,we drove to see ,shah ,alam's ,mosque1 built about #adbj1 which was reached in about half an hour beyond the city gates1 along a cool avenue of acacias4 ,the mosque has a fine court and minarets1 and a splendid canopied tomb1 with pillars inlaid with mother-o'-pearl2 beautiful metal-work in pierced brass gates and screens4 ,on returning from this drive we stopped near the river ,sarbarmati in a grove of trees1 chiefly banyan1 mango1 and acacia4 ,here a native boy set up a peculiar hooting sort of call1 and presently we saw troops of silver grey monkeys dropping from the trees and gambolling along towards us between the stems--hundreds of them apparently--hurrying up to feed on the dried peas we scattered for them4 ,they came crowding around us1 but were quite friendly1 and many would feed out of our hands4 ,they varied much in size1 but were mostly large1 and carried their tails high in the air and curled over their backs in spirited curves when walking on all-fours4 ,many of the female monkeys carried their young ones with them4 ,all looked beautifully clean and healthy1 and were full of play--in fact as different as possible in their freedom from the poor captives in cages at zoological gardens4 ,it was amusing to watch their pranks and to note the ease with which they would climb up into the trees1 some of which were as full of monkeys almost as branches4 ,as we left the monkeys we had another unusual sight4 ,we saw a large and leafy mango tree leaning over the river1 which seemed to have suddenly burst into white blossoms2 but we soon perceived these supposed flowers begin to flutter1 and winged ones detached themselves from the mass of white1 which we then discovered were white cranes4 ,they would rise in a cloud and settle again ever and anon among the green foliage4 ,they were a small kind1 not larger than a heron1 and are common all over ,india4 ,we often saw them afterwards rising by the side of the pools by the railway track1 or fishing1 or flying over the submerged paddy fields1 but in smaller numbers1 and never so beautifully4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,family ,,party--,,cranes ,,on ,a ,,mango ,,tree 7,,sarbarmati ,,river7 ,on the white and dusty road to ,ahmedabad we met numbers of wagons loaded with cotton bales and drawn by large white oxen4 ,the country carts had wicker bodies1 somewhat like those ,i have seen in ,germany1 and primitive massive wheels with eight spokes in a double cross4 ,camels were occasionally seen ridden by natives4 ,as at ,bombay1 there were extensive cotton factories here1 and cotton was very largely grown in the country around4 ,the bazaars and the street life in ,ahmedabad are most various and interesting1 all sorts of trades and crafts being carried on4 ,there is still a great quantity of silk-weaving done1 and brocades wrought with gold thread4 ,a proverb of the place quoted by ,mr ,w4 ,s4 ,caine has it that the prosperity of ,ahmedabad hangs on three threads--8gold1 silk1 and cotton02 and these three threads still symbolise the main industries of the city4 ,a picturesque incident in the streets is the silk-winder--in some open space in front of the shops you may sometimes see a native woman standing 7like ,mr ,holman ,hunt's 8,lady of ,shalott07 within a low square enclosure formed of bamboo sticks wound with long strands of silk thread4 ,she holds a sort of spindle in her left hand1 and a long tapering wand in her right1 by means of which she divides or regulates the thread as she winds it off on to the bamboo sticks1 rapidly twirling the spindle as she does so4 ,it is an extremely pretty and picturesque sight4 ,the old methods of hand-weaving are practised1 and for weaving the brocades or 8kincobs0 the treadles in the loom are lifted from above by a boy1 who draws up the cords attached to the threads of the warp according to the pattern the weaver is working4 ,it is said that the native trade in the finer brocaded silks has been injured owing to the richer natives following the ,european fashion of dressing plainly1 the rich silk woven with gold thread being only worn on state occasions1 another instance of the depressing influence of ,western ideas and habits upon the ,east4 ,the rich merchants1 and the ,maharajahs and their court officials no doubt believe they are improving their style in adopting fashions from ,europe1 but the effect is practically only to vulgarise the native taste4 ,the native princes and the well-to-do merchants now dash about in imported motor cars in raiment of dingy tints1 instead of proudly prancing upon stately elephants and clothed in splendour and colour4 ,eastern life is made less joyous in its aspects by such changes4 ,the mass of the people do not change1 however1 and seem to have no desire to1 and they are the common people everywhere who give the characteristic life and colour4 ,though they only wear cotton or muslin1 the beauty and variety of the tints are wonderful1 and fill the bazaars with a stream of ever-changing hues in the most unexpected combinations and harmonies4 ,driving through the bazaars at ,ahmedabad1 we came to a sort of open space from which several streets diverged1 and here was being held a sort of open market of cloth--chiefly muslins and cottons of every variety of colour and pattern4 ,these were laid out in piles on the ground1 the merchants squatting by their goods or spreading them out to show their customers4 ,illustration3 ,,street ,,scene1 ,,ahmedabad ,,english ,,travellers ,,sketching ,,and ,,making ,,purchases ,we stopped our carriage1 and got our bearer to bring us some of the stuffs to look at and to inquire the prices1 and we were soon surrounded by an eager crowd of dark faces and turbaned heads1 and were nearly buried in a rainbow-tinted cloud of muslin and cotton cloth1 amid which deliberate selection became difficult4 ,i noted1 however1 many examples of the native method of dyeing cloths in patterns by the tying and dipping methods which often produce most delightful results1 the pattern having a softer and more blended effect than the ordinary block printing4 ,although ,manchester cottons were in evidence1 it was pleasant to see that native methods were not forgotten1 and were still in demand4 ,the native pottery1 too1 at ,ahmedabad is extremely interesting1 the common forms are always good1 as indeed they are throughout ,india4 ,enormous earthen jars are made here to hold grain1 or for carrying water from the river on ox-carts4 ,the ordinary earthen water-jar1 which the ,hindu women carry on their heads1 resembles the ancient ,greek ,hydria in form1 and is so beautiful that it is distressing to see it occasionally substituted by the hideous tin kerosine can--another ,european innovation--much more difficult to balance one would think4 ,in the streets of ,ahmedabad occasional features are small1 richly carved octagonal minarets supported on posts1 and looking like glorified pigeon houses4 ,there is a big ,hindu temple--a ,jain temple of no antiquity1 only about thirty or forty years old4 ,the shrine of ,hathi ,sing4 ,it has the characteristic pagoda domes1 and is elaborately painted and decorated1 though rather coarsely4 ,the finest features were the marble pavements where1 again1 one noticed the peculiar soft polish given by bare feet4 ,a very interesting excursion is that to ,sarkhei1 a drive of about seven miles outside the city gates4 ,the road crosses the wide river ,sarbarmati--or rather its bed1 as the water shrinks into a rather narrow stream1 and is almost lost sometimes among great stretches and banks of sand4 ,at the water's edge1 as we passed1 we saw the people busy washing clothes 7which made a pretty coloured pattern when spread on the sands to dry7 or themselves1 or watering horses and bullocks1 or refreshing their baskets of vegetables they had borne along the dusty ways by dipping them in the stream4 ,illustration3 ,,tomb ,,of ,,gunj ,,baksh1 ,,sarkhei ,our road was deep in dust1 but generally pleasantly shaded by fine old trees1 chiefly banyan1 teak trees1 and acacias4 ,the little striped squirrels were very numerous and active1 frisking up and down and around the tree stems4 ,monkeys were occasionally seen--of the same silver grey sort we had seen on our visit to the ,mosque of ,shah ,alam--in the jungles at the side of the road1 or in the trees4 ,a bird rather like a large bullfinch was common1 and we saw many peacocks wandering about1 and1 of course1 kites and crows everywhere4 ,on the road we passed many a heavy-laden ox-cart1 piled with bales of cotton1 making their way to ,ahmedabad1 as well as droves of white asses1 and many groups of natives4 ,about two miles out we saw at the side of the road a large brick-built ,mohammedan ,tomb1 said to be the tomb of the architect of ,sarkhei1 who was a ,persian4 ,further on our carriage turned out of the main road down a narrow lane to the right and up a steep bit of hill1 flagged with flat stones4 ,presently we arrived in front of a fine gateway of ,moslem architecture1 which formed the entrance to a large quadrangle1 shaded by a very old acacia tree4 ,we had to put on the usual clumsy canvas shoes before entering this court1 which enclosed the splendid mosque and tomb of ,gunj ,baksh 7begun by ,mahmudshah in #adde and finished by ,begara in #adea71 with a low1 flat cupola1 and many pilastered front1 the structures of the caps showing ,hindu influence4 ,there is a finely worked lattice screen of brass surrounding the octagonal shrine within1 containing the tomb4 ,the floor is inlaid with coloured marbles1 and the roof is rich with gilding4 ,an open pavilion stood in the court in front of the shrine1 raised upon a platform1 with steps supported by sixteen carved marble pillars4 ,opposite to this is a charming portico1 through which one can get a glimpse of the great tank1 though it was almost dried up when we saw it1 the water hardly enough to conceal an alligator1 though white cranes were standing in the pool in the forlorn hope of catching fish1 and monkeys gambolled about the steps4 ,on the side of the court near the entrance are the tombs of ,mahmud ,begara and his two sons--of the usual ,mohammedan type1 an arcaded pattern in low relief along the sides2 with censers hanging between the arches of similar type to those at ,ahmedabad4 ,there is a pathetic feeling of departed or half decayed splendour about ,sarkhei1 as well as a sense of romance and mystery1 and one leaves it impressed with the idea of the refinement1 sense of beauty1 and spaciousness of the departed princely builders who lie buried within their own architectural dream4 ,there are always a number of hangers on about ,indian tombs and temples1 self-constituted guides1 and persons of indefinite status and occupation who cluster around the arriving and departing stranger1 who has to smooth his path with backsheesh1 and ,sarkhei is no exception4 ,we had a hot drive along the dusky highway back to ,ahmedabad in the middle of the day1 the sun blazing down very fiercely1 and we were glad of the protection of the carriage hood4 ,in the course of one of our evening drives about the town1 our ,moonsawmy pointed out an acacia tree we passed by the roadside which appeared to be full of what looked like large pendant pear-shaped fruit of black and golden brown colour4 ,these1 however1 were really clusters of fruit-bats hanging in the tree until nightfall4 ,some of them1 as we looked1 were already moving and stretching out their wings in the last rays of the evening sun4 ,we passed through the triple arched ancient gateway which stands at the head of the main street4 ,the bazaars were crowded with buyers and sellers1 chiefly of cotton and other stuffs4 ,the people themselves in every variety of costume formed a wonderful scheme of colour1 varied by the brownskins of babies and little children playing about quite naked1 and the brown backs of the workers bending over their crafts4 ,the whole scene fused in the light of afterglow and rich in tone and chiaroscuro4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,ahmedabad ,,to ,,ajmir ,the railway station at ,ahmedabad has the unusual distinction of two striking minarets of brick-work1 richly cut and moulded in successive circular tiers1 which rise to a considerable height from amid the palms and plantains of a small well-watered ,eastern garden1 with many straight-cut paths between the thickly planted trees4 ,these are the remains of a ,mohammedan mosque which once stood there4 ,it is an unusually interesting and pleasant place to wander in while waiting for a train4 ,our bearer secured a comfortable coup for our journey to ,ajmir1 which was to be our next halting-place4 ,we had originally intended to visit ,mount ,abu to see the wonderful ,jain temples of ,delwara1 but before we reached the ,abu road heavy rain came on1 and as it would have meant a pony ride of sixteen miles from the station to ,mount ,abu1 we decided to go on to ,ajmir without a break4 ,leaving ,ahmedabad at #h4ae we breakfasted in the train1 there being a restaurant car put on4 ,the trains not being corridor trains it is necessary to get out at the stopping stations and find one's way to the car and back to one's carriage again4 ,the country at first was very flat and generally cultivated1 but with occasional belts of jungle1 where monkeys and peacocks were seen4 ,fine banyan and acacia trees here and there4 ,ploughing with oxen was going on1 and the yoke of oxen drawing at the irrigation wells was a frequent sight4 ,about the middle of the day dark clouds rolled up and we had a heavy shower with promise of more to come4 ,mountains came into view at the same time as the change in the weather1 and it was not long before we reached ,abu ,road ,station4 ,the fine mountain range on the left of the line amid which ,mount ,abu was situated was veiled in cloud and rain1 but as we left the mountains the sky cleared again1 and we entered a flat1 desert-like region covered with stunted trees or dry scrub bush1 stretching for miles4 ,a strange-looking country was afterwards traversed1 where huge granite boulders lay on the earth like mounds and partly overgrown1 others might have been imagined to be the shells of gigantic tortoises4 ,at a station called ,mori this characteristic was the most striking4 ,the stations on this line through ,rajpootana were built after the ,moslem fashion and had a superficial resemblance to mosques1 being domed1 the smaller buildings and wayside signal huts being treated in the same manner4 ,after a rainy sunset of orange and grey1 darkness soon fell1 and it was not long before we reached ,ajmir after about twelve hours' travel--a distance of over three hundred miles4 ,we found fairly comfortable quarters at the station refreshment-rooms1 the bedrooms being above and opening on to spacious terraces from which interesting views of the town and country could be had4 ,the only drawbacks were the noises4 ,what with the shrieks of the engines1 and the perpetual conversazione carried on on the platforms1 which were generally thronged with most picturesque crowds of natives1 sleep was very broken4 ,ajmir is very beautifully situated1 with a fine background of hills1 the town itself being on a slope with an old fort crowning a height immediately above it4 ,there is a large military station1 the cantonments with the residency and the ,english bungalows lying on a plain quite away from the native town4 ,we hired a carriage and drove around the town the morning after our arrival1 visiting the old palace and massive fortress built by the ,emperor ,akbar1 who has left so many noble buildings in the north-west of ,india to testify to his power and influence in the past4 ,we entered through a noble gateway into a large quadrangle surrounded by tremendously high1 thick walls and having octagonal bastions at four corners4 ,a pavilion rose in the centre of the court1 raised upon a platform led up to by steps of marble4 ,extensive restorations were being carried on under the ,indian ,government1 so much so that one had fears they were in danger of going too far in the direction of renewal1 and did not draw the line with sufficient decision at the limits of preservation and repair4 ,certainly new work was being put in freely4 ,it was interesting1 however1 to see that most beautiful and characteristic ,indian craft of piercing patterns in marble being carried on4 ,the native carver1 turbaned and grey-bearded1 was squatting on the ground busy with a small marble grill or screen4 ,he was drilling a geometric diaper pattern through a panel of marble which had a worked moulding for frame4 ,the slab was bedded in clay to keep it from under the worker's hands1 and to prevent splitting4 ,when the holes were drilled he finished the work with chisels and mallet1 working out the different bevels and facets of the quatre-foils1 and putting in the work that which gave all the richness and the effect of the pattern4 ,he seemed pleased to have his work noticed1 and anxious that we should see it in its finished state he went to where a group of native women were at work on other similar grills which had left the carver's hands1 cleaning the pierced patterns from the clay1 and showed the completed panels clear cut in the white marble4 ,it was noticeable that the women only did the cleaning and polishing up1 but not the carving4 ,we had a fine view from the ramparts and minarets of the pavilion4 ,from the fort we went on driving through the bazaars of ,ajmir1 which were highly interesting but less busy and crowded1 perhaps1 than at ,ahmedabad4 ,gay coloured cottons and muslins1 embroidered slippers1 pottery1 and grain of all kinds were mostly in evidence1 the latter arranged in heaps on cloths spread on the ground in front of the shops1 and measured out by the traders squatting by their merchandise4 ,the fronts of the native houses here were mostly in white plaster1 often painted with designs in blue and yellow of formal flowers in vases1 or quaint animals and figures in profile4 ,there was much fancy and variety in the design of the little arcaded projecting balconies corbelled out from the wall1 and ogee arched windows1 and moulded plaster and painted ornament4 ,we presently1 at the end of the principal street1 approached the magnificent double gateway of the famous ,dargah--named the ,dilkasha 7or 8heart-expanding07 gate4 ,from the street one really sees three ogee arches of different heights in succession1 one beyond the other1 the highest being flanked by towering minarets crowned with cupolas4 ,the whole gateway in the bright morning sunlight looked a fairy-like aerial structure1 fair and white1 and glittering here and there with gold1 and tile patterns in blue and yellow4 ,the ,dargah of ,ajmir is revered as the burial-place of one ,kwaja ,sahib1 a saint of the thirteenth century4 ,his beautiful white and gold domed shrine enclosing his silver tomb occupies the centre of the inner court1 and is visited by troops of pilgrims4 ,a great festival is held in honour of the saint every year1 when ,ajmir is thronged with pilgrims4 ,two enormous iron pots are shown1 standing each side the entrance to the ,dargah1 in which at the festival are cooked tons of food freely given to the pilgrims4 ,the biggest pot is reputed to hold no less than #aj1jjj lbs4 of food4 ,the food consists of mess of rice1 oil1 sugar1 raisins1 and almonds1 which is rather suggestive of a sort of plum pudding1 and on this scale costs about #ajj4 ,illustration3 ,,shrine ,,of ,,the ,,kwaja1 ,,ajmir ,on first entering the ,dargah through the great gateway one sees a large paved court with several domed tombs and a mosque1 and rising high the old fort of ,tarrgarh1 white-walled on the brown hill1 is seen above4 ,i noted a very fine bronze many-branched candelabra on one of the domed tombs4 ,passing through this court the second court is entered where stands the shrine4 ,it is surrounded by a low marble balustrade1 and is picturesquely overshadowed by a large ancient ilex tree1 through the spreading branches of which with their masses of rich dark foliage glows the colour and gold of the richly decorated shrine4 ,through the open doors gleam the silver of the tomb1 and the ivory-like dome fretted and crested with gold sparkling in the full light of the sun pierces the deep blue sky4 ,curious low tapering pedestals with small cupolas at the top are placed about the courts and around the shrine at intervals4 ,these are pierced with small recesses1 in which1 on festival occasions1 small lamps are placed4 ,beyond the shrine we come out upon a high-walled terrace which extends with a succession of bays along the sides of a deep narrow tank1 flights of steps leading down to the water's edge at different points4 ,it is the custom when visitors leave the ,dargah for the attendants to hang garlands of flowers about their necks1 and in return for this graceful attention an offering to the shrine--or to its hangers on--is expected4 ,the visitor is1 however1 rather carefully watched inside the ,dargah4 ,the shrine itself is not allowed to be entered4 ,shoes must be removed on entering the court1 or the big canvas shoes put on over them4 ,on sketching intent ,i was not allowed to pitch a camp stool near the shrine or in the sacred precincts1 and even open umbrellas1 for shade1 were objected to by these jealous watchful devotees4 ,from the ,dargah we went to see the roofless mosque of 8,arhai-din-ka-,jhonpra10 which being interpreted signifies 8,the house of two and a half days40 ,it is on the hill opposite the fort1 but on the lower slope1 and is approached through narrow streets1 and finally reached by a steep flight of steps which lead to the gateway of the court of the mosque4 ,it is now little more than a beautiful red sandstone carved screen of open pointed arches1 but the detail is exceedingly rich and happy in scale1 and largely consists of bordering inscriptions outlining the arches and their rectangular framings1 the texts being in both ,cufic and ,togra characters1 and both these and the surface decoration generally are delicately but sharply cut in sunk carving1 which preserves a certain unity of ornamental effect4 ,arranged along the side of the court are many carved fragments which are the remains of the ,jain ,temple1 transformed into the ,mussulman ,mosque in the year #abcf by ,altamash1 who conquered the city1 and was said to have effected the transformation in two and a half days4 ,the mosque was not used for worship4 ,in the court a rope or cord maker was at work4 ,the white strands stretched over canes from the man working at one end of the walk to where at the other end his assistant sat at a sort of wheel by means of which the strands were twisted into a cord of the required thickness4 ,after this we drove to the ,daulat ,bagh 7,garden of splendour7--then passing through a beautiful park full of pine-trees we came to the white marble pavilion built by ,shah ,jehan1 standing on a marble balustraded terrace1 and overlooking a lovely lake1 bounded by mountains--a lovely spot4 ,the pavilion has been restored by the ,indian government1 and looks quite new4 ,marble1 however1 does not seem to weather or discolour in the ,indian climate1 and the difference between new and old is not nearly so marked as in ,european countries1 while the imitative faculty of the ,hindu workman and the traditions of craftsmanship under which he still works help to complete the illusion when restoration is done4 ,new or old1 it was an enchanting place1 especially when the evening sun floods the whole scene with golden light1 streaming through the trees1 and filling the marble porticoes with warm colour4 ,the lake still as a mirror1 reflecting the fairy palace and the dreamy distance in its glassy surface4 ,the chief commissioner should be happy to have his residence in the midst of this lovely garden4 ,the lake is as useful too as it is beautiful1 as from it is obtained the water supply of ,ajmir4 ,another of our evening drives was through the cantonments outside the native city4 ,we passed through the ,english military quarters1 and saw the long low barrack-like bungalows of the soldiers1 clean and neat1 but bare and ugly4 ,there were more comfortable bungalows of the officers and other ,english residents in gardens and amid trees1 with entrance gates and drives1 almost suburban1 allowing for little differences in detail4 ,the names of the residents1 for instance1 were painted in white block-letters on ugly black boards placed outside the gates of the gardens4 ,there was the usual club house in a landscape garden1 and here a military band of native infantry was playing1 conducted by a man in a straw hat4 ,english ladies1 and children with their native aejahs and bearers scattered about the lawns4 ,on the road a little distance from the town a large number of natives were busy making up the road over a new bridge across the railway4 ,many of these coolies were very attenuated1 and might have come from the famine districts4 ,passing through the bazaar on my return from sketching in the ,dargah1 ,i noticed among the stalls of a crowded and picturesque native street a craftsman at work putting a border pattern upon the edge of a piece of orange-coloured muslin4 ,he first printed or stamped the border1 a small leaf and flower pattern1 from a wood block with some sort of size of a brown colour1 and when this was sufficiently 8tacky0 he laid on silver leaf over the pattern thus defined by the block in size1 and finished by brushing away the superfluous leaf with a soft brush1 much as our gilders do4 ,a quaint effect was produced by the camels here1 laden with great sheafs of sugar-cane1 which trailed behind1 spreading out over their hind quarters in a way that suggested skirts or a crinoline--viewed from behind4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,camel',s ,,crinoline 7,,sugar ,,cane7 ,,ajmir ,from our terrace over the railway station we could observe the varied groups of natives which continually thronged the platforms and the yards outside4 ,certainly the native in ,india makes constant use of the railways1 although the railways do not take any trouble to make them comfortable4 ,the native carriages seem always in an overcrowded state1 and many of them are rather suggestive of cattle trucks with rough wooden partitions4 ,troups of natives will come to a railway station and camp all night waiting for some train in the morning4 ,on inquiring what classes or manner of people these poor travellers mostly were1 ,i was told that they comprised chiefly pilgrims to various shrines and festivals in different parts of the country1 and small traders4 ,the ,ryot1 or agriculturist1 did not travel much1 as might be supposed4 ,the people usually bore great bundles with them1 bedding presumably1 and other necessaries for long journeys4 ,these the women carried upon their heads4 ,in the evenings groups of natives would be seen gathered round fires made on the ground4 ,these were often mere flares of straw1 and did not last very long1 though they may have served to mitigate the chill of the nightfall1 which is always so sudden in ,india4 ,as evidence of the extraordinary variety of colour arrangements in the costume of the natives in the bazaars1 here are a few notes made of the colours worn by passers-by1 both men and women1 at ,ajmir observed in the course of a few minutes4 #a4 ,citron tunic1 emerald green turban1 white trousers4 #b4 ,buff turban black tunic1 white trousers4 #c4 7,woman47 ,large vermilion cloak1 pink skirt4 #d4 ,pea green turban1 crimson velvet tunic1 white trousers4 #e4 ,orange turban1 black tunic1 white trousers4 #f4 ,white turban1 wound round a red fez1 deep brown orange cloak thrown over brown jacket and white breeches4 #g4 ,orange muslin simply covering head and body1 scarlet trousers4 7,mohammedan woman47 #h4 ,turquoise turban1 golden orange tunic 7long7 lined with pale yellow4 ,the agricultural country folks generally wore white1 though it was rather a dusky white4 ,groups of herdsmen were occasionally seen with long straight wands1 their dark faces and bare limbs emerging from white cotton turbans1 tunics and cloaks4 ,travellers in ,india as well as ,english residents are often greeted with salaams in the native bazaars and passers-by on the road4 ,the word 8salaam0 is pronounced by natives sometimes in a tone almost of command1 but as far as ,i could understand it was intended to suggest a mutual exchange of salutations1 or even the word alone might be taken as a salutation sometimes2 but it is always expected that an answering salute of some kind will be given1 but it is said that one should never salute with the left hand if it is wished to avoid offence4 ,the ordinary mode of salutation in any country should be carefully observed1 as in no way can offence be more easily given1 however inadvertently1 by any apparent neglect of what are considered the ordinary courtesies of life sanctioned by the customs of a country4 ,it is true that the native children seemed sometimes inclined to mock at a stranger1 in a spirit of monkey mischief1 perhaps1 but there are little street gamins in any city1 and the latest product of our civilisation1 the ,london street arab1 would be difficult to beat anywhere1 ,east or ,west4 ,,chapter ,v ,,chitorgarh ,,and ,,udaipur ,from ,ajmir there is a branch line to ,chitorgarh and ,udaipur1 and no traveller in ,india should miss the opportunity of visiting both these highly interesting places4 ,leaving ,ajmir1 the railway runs south through a rather flat country1 passing ,naisirabad1 an important ,british military station4 ,the ,english 8,tommy0 in khaki1 and white helmet and putties1 or the sun-burned1 brown-booted and spurred ,british cavalry officer1 were in evidence at the railway station4 ,among the native crowd here we saw a turbaned man in pink carrying a very thin1 aged woman1 probably his mother1 pick-a-back fashion4 ,a very dry and almost desert tract of country is traversed after this1 though occasionally varied by irrigated fields and green crops4 ,the irrigation wells1 worked by oxen as before1 and the native ploughing1 were the chief incidents in the landscape4 ,the plough is a very primitive-looking implement with a single shaft1 with a cross handle fixed at right angles to the shaft1 which consists of a sharpened piece of wood1 tipped with iron4 ,the plough is drawn by a pair of zebus1 and is light enough for the man to lift up and turn at the end of the furrow1 or even to be carried home on his shoulder at the end of the day4 ,there were thick hedges of spikey sort of cactus1 branching out from a main stem1 something like candelabra1 the fronds growing in a longitudinal1 rigid form4 ,these hedges fenced the railway line from the fields on the desert4 ,another plant of common occurrence1 both here and all over ,india1 was a broad-leaved shrub of symmetric order1 having small1 pale1 lilac flowers1 the stems rather a yellow1 and the leaves a lightish blue green4 ,we noted also a sort of wild laburnam4 ,the prickly pear was common1 and a sort of prickly acacia-like shrub much liked by camels4 ,the trees were mostly various acacias1 the banyan tree 7,ficus71 and the teak4 ,in places we saw both date and cocoa palms4 ,at one station 7,mandal7 the level plains1 with pyramidal hills in the distance and a grove of palms and camels in the foreground1 again recalled ,egypt4 ,the cultivated crops we passed were cotton1 tobacco1 rice1 wheat1 and sugar cane4 ,at every station may be seen the water filter1 a wooden tripod stand1 holding three red earthen water-jars1 one above the other4 ,the natives drink quantities of water1 and always carry a small drinking-vessel of bright brass1 which they take every opportunity of filling4 ,the water-bearer is a characteristic figure everywhere1 and comes up to the train with his cry1 8,panee6 panee60 which 7with an ,italian prepossessed ear7 is more suggestive of another1 and solid1 necessary of life4 ,bread1 however1 in ,hindustanee1 happens to be 8roti40 ,having left ,ajmir by the #i4bj ,a4,m4 train1 we arrived at ,chitorgarh about five in the evening1 and put up at the station rooms for the night4 ,there was a considerable crowd on the long1 open1 gravelled platform1 mainly natives1 with a small contingent of ,english and ,american tourists4 ,european tourists in ,india1 however1 were generally few and far between1 the ,united ,states being much more numerously represented4 ,a picturesque group was formed by a native resident from ,udaipur1 with his retinue1 waiting for their train on4 ,the chief was a venerable and a kindly-looking man1 with white hair and beard1 reminding one rather of the late ,g4 ,f4 ,watts4 ,he was gaily dressed in a pink turban and a lilac silk coat1 and was seated on a chair on the platform1 surrounded by his attendants in scarlet2 among these was his trumpeter1 with a bugle slung around him1 and a quad of four soldiers in khaki and turbans4 ,we found the ,traveller's ,bungalow was about three-quarters of a mile or so away from the station4 ,the bedrooms were all taken by the ,english and ,american parties1 but we could feed there1 so1 retaining our quarters at the station1 we walked to the ,bungalow for our dinner4 ,it was a lovely moonlight night1 with bright stars1 but there was a cold north wind as we were guided by our bearer with a lantern along a rather rough track1 and crossed the railway to the ,bungalow1 a new stone building1 bare and cheerless as they make them1 standing all by itself in a stoney yard without a tree near it4 ,the dinner1 or supper1 was not very rewarding1 and we trudged back again to the station in the cold moonlight4 ,the station we found quieter than usual4 ,the servants of the resident had encamped upon the platform1 and formed picturesque groups around fires1 cooking and gossiping2 their master sleeping in the train1 which was drawn up ready to start for ,udaipur early the next morning4 ,it seems highly necessary for travellers in ,india anywhere off the track of hotels to provide themselves with bedding of some sort1 at least quilts1 rugs1 sheets1 and pillows4 ,the nights at this time of year in ,rajpootana are quite cold1 and warm wraps are welcome4 ,the next morning we engaged a large elephant--which waited at the station to take travellers to ,chitorgarh--to carry us to the fort and deserted city on the height we could see from the station4 ,this was a distance of some seven miles there and back1 it was said4 ,illustration3 ,,first ,,elephant ,,ride4 7,,chitorgarh7 ,the elephant was made by the driver to kneel while we mounted1 by means of a ladder of bamboo1 and seated ourselves on the flat1 cushioned seat1 having a low hand-rail and a foot board1 slung by ropes4 ,the elephant moved with a peculiar swaying1 swinging movement1 not unlike that of a ship1 though regular4 ,we started over a stretch of rough1 common-like ground1 broken into hillocks and hollows1 overgrown with scrub bush1 the track not being very definite4 ,the elephant picked its way most carefully over the rough parts1 especially when descending a hollow4 ,we reached a roadway which led over a bridge across a river1 and brought us up to the city of ,chitor at the foot of the hill1 and extending upon its lower slopes4 ,we entered the city through a ,moslem arched gateway1 and threaded our way through the narrow streets1 our elephant filling the whole of the roadway4 ,pottery1 beads1 glass bracelets1 cheap lacquered ornaments1 and small merchandise of various kinds were spread out on the ground1 their proprietors squatting by their stock in trade4 ,the native houses were small and low1 for the most part hardly more than huts of mud1 roofed with sun-baked tiles1 laid scalewise over a trellis of bamboo1 often very dilapidated4 ,there were remains of better houses and older1 with arcaded balconies1 and here and there we passed a small white-washed temple1 with quaint elephants with gay housings painted in profile on the white walls each side the entrance4 ,these elephants are drawn in a very spirited manner1 and are generally represented going at a trot1 and full of action with trunk and tail in the air1 decorated with bells on his feet and gorgeous red and yellow housings and domed howdah1 set off by the solid black of the elephant and his ivory tusks1 the turbaned driver flourishing his goad4 ,from our commanding eminence1 the elephant's back1 we could take a comprehensive survey of the life of the city1 and see the people at work at various trades4 ,the inhabitants did not take much notice of us2 some would stare and others would salaam as we passed4 ,i imagine the elephant with ,european travellers on its back not infrequently passed through ,chitor1 although we managed to startle a tethered camel in one of the streets considerably1 and the animal tugged at its rope and plunged alarmingly at the sight of our elephant4 ,leaving the city of ,chitor1 which seemed very poverty-stricken1 we reached the first gate of the fortress1 and began the ascent of some #bjj or #cjj feet4 ,the road zigzags up the side of the rocky plateau1 upon the summit of which the fort and ancient city were built1 the ancient capital of ,rajpootana4 ,massive walls protect this road on the outer side1 and a continuous warder's walk runs along it1 with flights of stone steps to the roadway at intervals4 ,we passed through five gateways on the way up1 generally enriched with sculptured ornament--the last one1 ,ram ,pol1 being the richest1 and this was finely carved with ,hindu detail and symbols1 having friezes of elephants4 ,there have been extensive restorations at ,chitorgarh4 ,the whole length of the wall seems to have been gone over1 and replastered1 and in many places rebuilt with new stone4 ,the tops of the gates were crenellated in a fashion which suggested a perpetuation in stone of an earlier type of wooden palisading1 a horizontal band connecting the rounded or pointed stone heads1 the divisions between each being continued below it4 ,in many cases the old massive wooden gates were left under the archways1 bound with old iron bands4 ,by the way1 at ,ajmir we noted that the wooden doors of the gateways to the courts were covered with old horse-shoes nailed on1 close together1 in some instances actually over the old rich carved work1 and apparently with the same idea of good omen as is associated with the same emblem in our country4 ,arrived at the summit there were wonderful ruins to be seen4 ,scattered over the plateau1 half overgrown1 amid heaps of shattered stones and carved fragments1 there were the remains of ,mohammedan palaces and ,hindu or ,jain ,temples1 rich within and without with intricate carving4 ,the guides showed us where the ,hindu ,queen and the women of the city1 all suffocated themselves in a subterranean chamber to escape their fate had they fallen into the hands of the ,mohammedan conquerors1 when ,ala-ud-din took ,chitor by storm in #abij4 ,the hand of the restorer was seen here again and had been in some parts rather too thorough4 ,i noticed an arcade over the gateway of the ,moslem ,palace1 which seemed to have been entirely rebuilt in a kind of pale green marble1 almost the colour of jade1 quite sharply cut and new1 and out of keeping with the old work more or less battered and ruined around it4 ,the famous ,tower of ,victory had been extensively restored1 even the carving in parts recut4 ,this is going too far1 as it is impossible to unite modern workmanship with old1 even in ,india4 ,watchful and careful1 timely repair is the only way to preserve ancient buildings1 but there should be no attempt made to replace lost carving and decoration by modern imitation4 ,we entered over broken steps a wonderful ,jain temple1 very richly carved1 with a remarkable domed ceiling over the central chamber1 arranged in a series of concentric circles1 intersected by figures of dancing girls1 with emblems radiating from the centre4 ,another ,jain temple formed a most picturesque pile1 and a delightful mass of light and shade filled in with intricate detail1 in the full sunlight4 ,in these temples a favourite deity is ,ganesha1 the elephant-headed god1 whose carved image constantly appears4 ,in one part of the ancient city we came upon some natives preparing cotton yarn for hand-weaving4 ,the yarn was stretched in long lengths across horizontal canes supported by vertical ones4 ,they seemed to be cleaning the threads with combs and brushes4 ,the little black-bristled hand-brushes placed on the top of the turbaned heads when not in use had a very quaint effect4 ,having explored the ruins of ,chitorgarh1 we remounted our good elephant1 which waited for us1 and descended1 moving rather joltingly down the long hill1 and frightening a pony and a camel tethered in the main street of ,chitor4 ,the sun was now blazing1 it being noontide1 though tempered by the still cool wind from the north1 which we had found really cold in the morning4 ,returning the way we had come to our quarters at the station1 after taking tiffin at the bungalow we arranged to go on to ,udaipur in the morning1 and were advised to sleep in the train1 which waited in the station all night1 and left at #f4bj ,a4,m4 for ,udaipur4 ,so we packed up and went on board and took our berths1 which were on the whole more comfortable than the station beds4 ,in the morning our compartment was invaded by a young ,indian who wanted a seat1 but we had kept it to ourselves during the night1 which was cold enough1 and we were glad of all our wraps4 ,the young ,indian was a pleasant1 bright1 and intelligent young fellow who spoke ,english well1 well clad in the style of a native gentleman1 with plenty of wraps and overcoats4 ,he was obviously curious about us1 and wanted to know all we would tell him4 ,he seemed to have a great wish to see ,london1 and asked us about the cost of living there1 and whether a ,hindu could live there according to his religion without meat4 ,he described ,india as 8a poor country10 and wondered that we should journey so far to see it4 ,he was bound for some town where his father lived1 sixty miles by tonga from ,udaipur1 being under orders not to stop at the latter place1 as his father had told him there was plague there1 and wished him to come on4 ,the train passed through a very flat and rather cheerless country1 exceedingly dry1 and for the most part covered with long jungle grass1 but varied here and there by green crops under irrigation4 ,camels were occasionally seen1 generally ridden by two men2 also there were many herds of oxen and buffaloes4 ,as usual1 there were many interesting types and groups to be observed at the stations4 ,approaching ,udaipur1 the country broke into hills and became more interesting4 ,we reached ,udaipur ,station about #aa4cj1 and bidding good-bye and exchanging cards with the young ,hindu1 we parted with our baggage into a little open cart called a 8tum-tum10 and were driven some distance1 along a dusty road1 to the ,udaipur ,hotel1 which looked like an expanded bungalow with a second storey added on4 ,here we found pleasant quarters and decent beds4 ,at the table-d'hte there was a rather frigid ,anglo-,indian family1 a colonel on a tour of official inspection and his secretary and their ladies2 also a voluble ,american lady1 whom we had seen at ,ajmir1 and a rather lofty and superior ,english military man and his wife1 who1 we were afterwards informed1 were the guests of the ,maharajah4 ,in meeting one's compatriots aboard or indeed anywhere without an introduction one is reminded by their manner strongly of the ,oxford ,don who could not do anything to save an unfortunate undergraduate from drowning because 8he had not been introduced40 ,here1 in a remote part of ,india1 chance had thrown half-a-dozen ,english people together at the same table1 and yet they would hardly speak to each other1 that is to say to any new-comer outside their own party4 ,nothing1 however1 daunts the ,american traveller1 especially the ,american lady4 ,she ignores the social ice1 or if she perceives it she boldly breaks it with a hatchet1 as it were1 rushing in under the guns of the most frigid and unapproachable personalities with a cheerful and persistent fire of conversation1 popping in leading questions with the most artless and childlike confidence4 ,this mode of attack generally succeeds1 too1 apparently4 ,i have seen severe ,english official and military-looking men1 after some show of resistance1 unconditionally surrender1 and presently empty their intellectual pockets on the demand of these light-hearted1 table-d'hte1 globe-trotting inquisitors4 ,a picturesque feature of hotel life in ,india is the impromptu bazaar formed under the arcade1 which always shades the rooms on the ground floor1 by the travelling merchants1 who spread out their wares to tempt the traveller4 ,in ,rajpootana1 the land of warriors1 collections of arms1 swords1 sword-sticks1 knives and daggers1 and fearsome and wonderful blades of all sorts form a conspicuous part of the stock-in-trade of these native merchants1 the glittering steel making a brave show with the bright-coloured stuffs1 jewellery1 and embroideries4 ,at ,udaipur they offered also native pictures1 painted in tempera1 somewhat crude but distinctly decorative1 and complete with painted borders or frames4 ,they represented elephants1 tigers1 maharajahs sabring wild swine1 and such-like1 painted in profile in frank flat colours1 the animals singularly faithful in silhouette to nature4 ,in dealing with these travelling traders1 bargaining is1 of course1 expected1 and usually they are willing to accept about half the price originally asked4 ,illustration3 ,,rajputs ,,and ,,their ,,rarities4 7,,udaipur7 ,an impressive sight at ,udaipur is the place of tombs1 or the burning-place1 which is a beautiful garden surrounded by a high wall1 full of magnificent domed tombs and cenotaphs4 ,this is the place where the ,kings of ,udaipur1 since it became the capital of ,rajpootana1 have been buried1 or rather cremated1 with their wives4 ,the city of ,udaipur--a glimpse of which1 with its crenellated walls and the huge pile of the ,maharajah's palace rising above the trees1 is seen from the hotel--is entered1 after a short drive through a fine double gateway4 ,a huge old mango tree grows over the street just inside4 ,udaipur is a white town2 the streets are very picturesque1 having arcaded bazaars and pretty fantastic balconies here and there1 and the native life is of course very varied and full of colour4 ,the main street rises up to the eminence on which the palace stands4 ,at an angle before this is reached1 a steep flight of white steps leads up to the gate of the court of the great temple of ,juggernath--a ,jain temple dedicated to ,vishnu--the second person in the ,hindu ,trinity4 ,it was the finest of its kind we have yet seen4 ,we were allowed to walk around the court and examine the carvings1 but not inside the temple4 ,two great stone elephants stand facing one another at the entrance to the court--a similar arrangement to that noted at ,ellora4 ,there is an elaborate shrine over the gateway in which is a seated bronze or brass figure of ,vishnu with his lotus flower1 snakes1 and other emblems4 ,the exterior of the temple is a wonderful mass of carving4 ,on the plinth was a continuous narrow frieze of elephants on a small scale1 having the effect of a richly carved moulding2 above this was a line of horses1 all saddled and bridled but without riders2 above this again was a band of human figures4 ,over these were carved on a larger scale a series of figures of dancing-girls in different attitudes4 ,these dancers always form an important element in the carved decoration of ,jain temples4 ,we next visited the palace of the ,maharajah1 which occupies the highest ground in the city of ,udaipur4 ,it is a vast1 romantic-looking pile4 ,the steep street leads the traveller up to a great arched gateway1 and through this is entered a large oblong court4 ,on the right1 the vast white palace walls rise to a great height1 with hardly any windows1 but high up are seen fairy-like arcades1 balconies1 and domed minarets1 glittering with blue tile-work and gold4 ,a native custodian conducted us over the ,palace4 ,entering an inner court1 we ascended a steep stone staircase at an angle1 the treads rising about nine or twelve inches high4 ,there were native paintings on the walls of richly caparisoned state elephants bearing maharajahs1 tigers1 and other figures4 ,we passed through a succession of rooms and courts at different levels1 the walls of white marble inlaid with a very fine sort of glass mosaic1 not tessellated but let in in pieces cut large or small according to the forms to be expressed4 ,these were generally figures always in severe profile1 in elaborate costume1 and jewels the details of which were carefully and richly rendered4 ,flowers and delicate palm trees varied the designs1 done in the same way1 the leaves and small component parts being cut complete in the glass4 ,there were also formal floral borders outlining the arches of the arcades1 and forming ceiling patterns in some of the rooms1 and on the walls were hung in frames delicate paintings on vellum1 heightened with gold1 such as one sees in old ,indian illuminated ,,mss4 ,in some of the corridors it was rather a shock to see inserted in the windows pieces of crudely stained ,european glass1 such as were in vogue in conservatories here in the 8forties40 ,one room was entirely decorated with coloured glass1 the walls being veneered with a zigzag pattern in red and white glass4 ,other and smaller rooms in the ,zenana quarters1 which we had now reached1 and all at the top storey of the ,palace1 were lined with old ,dutch tiles1 others again with ,chinese blue and white tiles4 ,these rooms had graceful1 arcaded balconies which commanded extensive views4 ,we had a bird's-eye view of the palace courts and the stable yards1 where elephants were tethered in long rows1 the busy natives moving about with horses and oxen4 ,beyond were seen the clustering1 small white houses with flat roofs1 broken by domes here and there1 the green wooded country and the hills far away1 while on the other side of the palace the lake with its pavilioned islands mirrored the sunset framed in the blue mountains4 ,at night we frequently heard the weird cries of the jackals which prowl around most places in ,india after dark1 and when all is quiet in human habitations4 ,it is a very wild1 shrill sound1 rising almost to a shriek at times4 ,we also thought we caught another note--the laughter of the hyena4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,maharajah',s ,,palace ,,at ,,udaipur4 ,,from ,,the ,,jagmandir ,,pavilion ,a charming excursion by boat may be made to the palace of ,jagmandir1 which occupies the whole of an island on the lake1 a fairy-like pavilion enclosing luxuriant palms and fruit trees within its courts and gardens in which one realised the architecture and scenery of the ,arabian ,nights4 ,we reached the lakeside through a fine triple-arched gate which led to a flight of steps descending into the water4 ,here a striking scene burst upon us4 ,a crowd of dark ,hindu women thronged the steps1 clad for the most part in rich red saris of different tones1 varied by orange and purple drapery and the glitter of their silver bangles and anklets4 ,they were busy cleaning their brass water jars1 scrubbing and polishing them on the steps at different levels2 some standing in the water1 whilst others1 filling their vessels and poising them on their heads1 would move away stately and erect1 like walking caryatids4 ,presently a rather heavy boat with two native oarsmen1 which had been summoned by our guide moved from the palace to the steps and we1 with our bearer1 embarked1 and were rowed over to the enchanting island and the fairy-like palace of ,jagmandir where ,shah ,jehan lived when in revolt against his father1 ,jahangir4 ,on the way we rowed around another island showing white arcades and domes emerging from green bowery foliage of mangoes and palms4 ,landing at the steps we found the ,jagmandir a most lovely place1 full of arcaded courts1 and marble pavements1 pointed windows and balconies and marble walls enclosing green gardens full of roses1 and palms1 and plantains1 a kingly pavilion1 displaying all the invention and refinement of ,mogul art4 ,inside1 too1 the palace was full of interest4 ,there was a charming little painted chamber1 the walls treated in a sort of tapestry manner with ,indian scenes and decorative landscapes rich with trees and varied with all the characteristic birds and animals 7the white cranes on the mango tree which we had seen in reality at ,ahmedabad were there7 kites and crows1 and antelopes1 and the ,maharajah and his horsemen hunting the tiger amid these painted forests and jungles4 ,on one wall the ,maharajah himself was painted at full length in profile in a white turban and dress also white embroidered with gold1 with a gold nimbus about his head as he is supposed to be descended from ,rama1 and is considered a sacred person connected with the sun--a large sun face modelled and gilded appears on the palace wall4 ,another room was said to have been painted by a ,french artist4 ,he had taken the lotus as a motive and had tuned it into a formal scroll pattern in the frieze1 but it was not a success1 and had not the interest or the spirit or decorative instinct of the native artist4 ,the chief salon had ,parisian carpets on the floor1 and a dreadful blue glass chandelier1 and other horrors in glass and furniture of ,western origin4 ,opening out of this salon was a bedroom raised a step or two on a higher level and the principal feature here was a large bedstead in glass and silver6 ,on the walls of one of the courts was a decoration in gesso inlaid with glass1 which was both delicate and effective4 ,there were figures decoratively treated in severe profile1 combined with trees and flowers somewhat ,persian in feeling and similar in style to some we had seen in the ,maharajah's palace4 ,from the landing-place ,i made a sketch of that palace in the sunlight reflected in the calm waters of the lake4 ,then1 at noon we rowed back to the town and returned in our tonga to the hotel4 ,another of the sights of ,udaipur is to see the ,maharajah's wild pigs fed4 ,he has an arena near the town for the cruel sport of pig-sticking1 but keeps vast herds of pigs upon the mountain sides at the head of the lake4 ,it is a beautiful drive to the spot through the city and out at a further gate1 and through groves and along a terrace-like road by the lakeside1 to a white building on a high ground overlooking the wooded and rocky mountain side1 partially covered with low forest2 there from a terrace we could see many swine feeding4 ,they are like a small kind of wild boar1 but differing in size1 and very fierce1 bristling their backs and charging one another over the food1 which was ,indian corn1 scattered broadcast among them by two natives1 one carrying the sack of grain and the other distributing it from a sort trencher4 ,there was a sort of ,brobdingnagian mouse-trap on the ground1 presumably to catch the boars in1 when wanted for the arena4 ,there were but few boars at first to be seen1 but they seemed to know the feeding time1 and gradually gathered in large numbers1 and when the grain was scattered1 by their constant rushes after it and violent charges with each others soon raised such a thick cloud of dust that they became lost to view as in a thick mist1 and could only hear their hoofs scraping over the rocky ground1 and their savage grunts and squeaks4 ,a number of peacocks hovered on the outskirts on the look out for stray grain as well as blue rocks and crows which often perched on the hogs' backs6 ,the terrace from which we surveyed this strange scene was really the parapeted flat roof of the keeper's dwelling4 ,a flight of steps led up to a higher terrace which surrounded a deep sort of bear-pit1 where a select family of hogs seemed to be treated with peculiar distinction4 ,not for these the fierce struggle for grain upon the mountain side1 when the battle was to the strong2 no1 these were fed upon a special food--a sort of large brown rissole composed of buttermilk and sugar-cane2 but the hogs were fat and did not devour these attractive morsels1 even with half the zest which their less favoured relatives outside ate up the scattered maize4 ,the reason of the comparative luxury in which these selected hogs lived1 we learned1 was that they had fought with tigers1 and thus were treated as superior beings1 by order of the ,maharajah4 ,the wooded shores of the lake and the mountains beyond were very beautiful in the still evening atmosphere1 as we drove back to ,udaipur1 the road by the lake being so narrow that two carriages could not pass1 and1 meeting the ,resident1 we had to pull in to one side to let his carriage get by4 ,there was a charming view of ,udaipur from our hotel seen through the trees1 the massive ,maharajah's palace dominating the city1 and bathed in the roseate early morning sunlight it looked particularly lovely4 ,i worked at a sketch of this on ,christmas morning2 ,i remember1 having to be up at seven o'clock in order to catch the effect1 which soon changed4 ,we had the most brilliant moonlight nights here1 too4 ,we visited the ,maharajah's gardens where was a sort of ,zoo4 ,there were some handsome tigers in rather small cages1 hogs1 leopards1 one lion1 deer1 guinea-pigs1 geese1 cockatoos1 and other birds and beasts1 including some melancholy dogs of various breeds1 chained at intervals around a courtyard4 ,these were supposed to be in hospital4 ,from the ,zoo we drove through a fine wooded park to the ,museum called the ,victoria ,institute1 where a native curator showed us round4 ,it was a white building in the ,moslem style but quite new4 ,it included a library in which was placed a bad statue of our late ,queen4 ,there were modelled heads in coloured plaster1 ranged in cases numbered and ticketed1 of all the ,hindu castes1 each with their proper caste mark upon their foreheads4 ,there was a miscellaneous collection otherwise1 native arts and industries and antiquities1 as well as ,european1 being represented very sparsely4 ,the whole thing had a sort of forced and artificial character in such surroundings and was quite empty of visitors4 ,we were1 however1 early there4 ,in driving through the gate of the city1 a funeral passed us--a band of young men bearing on a stretcher the corpse which was swathed in red cotton and tightly bound up like a mummy4 ,the bearers moved at a quick1 almost jaunty pace1 approaching a trot1 and with them were other natives who chanted a sort of song4 ,if it was an equivalent for a dirge it was quite a cheerful one--but then the ,hindus1 as well as the ,mohammedans and ,indians1 look upon death as a happy translation to another existence1 and the accompaniments of gloom to which we are accustomed in ,christian countries have no existence here4 ,we departed1 on ,christmas ,day in the morning1 from ,chitor and ,ajmir again1 returning by the way we came4 ,udaipur is at the end of the branch line from ,ajmir which has not ,i believe been in existence many years4 ,on the way to the station ,i noticed some very primitive huts clustered in a group on a rising ground above the road4 ,they almost exactly resembled the huts of the early ,britons and ,gauls as they appear on ,trajan's column1 being circular in form1 built of mud or sun-baked bricks and roofed with a sort of rude thatch laid over a bamboo trellis4 ,in this land of wonders and contrasts truly1 one sees everything both in customs and dwellings from the most primitive to the most elaborate and luxurious1 from the most ancient to the most modern forms of life4 ,it is sad to note1 however1 that at least as far as the outward aspects of life are concerned1 all that ,western contact seems to have done for the people of ,india is to introduce corrugated iron1 ,manchester cotton1 and the kerosene can--with petrol and its smell6 ,at ,udaipur station there was a great native crowd of every variety of type1 wonderful in colour and costume4 ,many of the men carried sabres as well as walking-sticks which seem to be the marks of superior caste in ,rajputana4 ,there were1 too1 the usual crowd of poorer travellers with their extraordinary bundles and brown babies4 ,a native woman stood on the platform with a huge sheaf of sugar-cane which she sold in pieces to the travellers1 and1 of course1 there were the sweet stuff sellers1 and the inevitable betel-nut4 ,reaching ,chitorgarh in the late afternoon the old fort with its zigzag walled road looked quite familiar1 and at the station our elephant was in waiting again4 ,we could not get on to ,ajmir until night1 and so did not arrive there until about #e4cj in the morning4 ,coming from a plague-stricken district passengers were not allowed to leave the train until a medical inspection had taken place4 ,an ,english doctor with a native attendant bearing a lantern came round and went through the farce of feeling everybody's pulse before anybody was allowed to leave the station4 ,we only stopped1 however1 to get some tea and await a train for ,jaipur1 our next destination4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,jaipur ,in our travels through ,india we met comparatively few of our own countrymen and women4 ,the ,english 7or the ,british7 have not as yet taken much to touring in the ,empire of which such a proud boast is constantly made4 ,the ,english in ,india are usually residents connected with civil or military posts4 ,they go out to take up their official duties1 and directly they get leave they rush 8home0--,england is always spoken of as 8home10 even by residents in ,india of long standing4 ,it generally happens that the officials and their families are quartered at some particular station in a particular district1 and may remain there all their time1 so that the ,english resident in ,india generally does not see any other parts of the great peninsular1 and is not acquainted with the country beyond his own district4 ,a tourist1 therefore1 in a few months may have a more complete general or even particular acquaintance with ,india at large1 as regards its great cities and famous monuments1 than many a resident who has spent the best part of his life in one station1 and who always takes his leave at 8home40 ,french tourists are occasionally met with1 but ,americans are the most numerous1 and they are met with everywhere4 ,the early morning train we had taken from ,ajmir to ,jaipur was invaded by a party of no less than forty of our ,transatlantic cousins1 who overflowed it and filled our compartment with an incredible amount of hand baggage4 ,they seemed to be1 as far as one could make out1 connected with some mission4 ,they reminded me rather of a gathering in one of the cities of the ,united ,states at which ,i was present 7,philadelphia1 ,i think71 where one of my ,american friends remarked1 8,now1 all these you see here are types1 but none of them are worth studying06 ,the country traversed between ,ajmir and ,jaipur is mostly plain1 and very desert-like in places1 with distant mountain ranges beyond1 not unlike ,arizona in general character4 ,green crops under irrigation are1 however1 occasionally seen1 and among them not unfrequently may be noticed a pair of large1 grey-plumaged cranes1 feeding in the young corn1 which do not take to flight at the approach of the train4 ,we reached ,jaipur about noon and put up at ,rustom's ,hotel1 a comparatively short drive from the station4 ,the hotel stands in the middle of a large enclosure divided by a low wall from the high road4 ,tents are pitched along one side of the building to afford extra sleeping accommodation1 and a sort of bungalow annexe is prepared to take overflow guests4 ,from pleasant rooms on the terrace we had a view of the ,tiger ,fort and the road with its constant procession of natives1 ox-carts1 and camels and horsemen trooping into the city about a mile off4 ,a row of tall acacia trees screened the late afternoon sun1 and barred-like fretwork the golden light of afterglow1 and we often watched the peacocks flying up to roost among the branches1 their beautiful forms silhouetted against the orange sky between the interstices of the leaves4 ,illustration3 ,,hotel ,,accommodation 7,,jaipur71 8,,for ,,your ,,ease ,,and ,,comfort0 7,,or ,,rather ,,for ,,the ,,easing ,,of ,,your ,,rupees87 ,the native proprietor1 or manager1 during the preliminary ceremony of taking our names1 and in getting a form of application to the ,resident filled up for permission to visit the ,maharajah's palace and the palace at ,amber1 made polite speeches1 expressing himself only anxious for 8our ease and comfort0--of course without any thought of prospective rupees4 ,clusters of native huts built of mud with thatched roofs occur at frequent intervals around ,jaipur outside the city walls2 from our terrace at the hotel we could see several4 ,there was apparently a small village within a stone's-throw4 ,one evening the strains of what sounded like a native chant or song in chorus were wafted to us from this village1 and we heard that a native wedding was going on there2 but the illusion was somewhat destroyed when we learned that the supposed native music proceeded from the mouth of a gramophone6 ,it is said that special ones are now prepared for the ,indian market with popular native songs and music--another boon from the ,west4 ,jaipur is a city within high crenellated walls1 built of rubble and plastered with cement4 ,the same form of palisade-like battlement crested the walls here as at ,chitorgarh1 and is the common form in ,mogul defensive buildings4 ,among the native huts which cluster outside the walls1 ,i noticed some of wicker2 many of the huts1 too1 had wicker screens--a sort of lattice-work made of bamboo--covering the otherwise open fronts4 ,jaipur is known as the rose-coloured city4 ,the ,maharajah must be very fond of pink1 in fact he may be said to have 8painted the town red40 ,the whole of the main fronts of the houses facing the streets are distempered in a kind of darkish rose pink--really red--the rosy hue being largely due to the luminous atmosphere in the full sunlight1 and it becomes still rosier in the flush of evening4 ,it is dark enough at anyrate to show a decoration of lines of floral devices and patterns painted in white upon the red walls4 ,the whole scheme1 no doubt1 was suggested by the red sandstone buildings inlaid with white marble which are the glory of ,delhi and ,agra4 ,it is not a sort of imitation calculated to deceive any one1 however1 but clearly a scheme of painted decoration emulating the effect of the solid materials mentioned4 ,the city has1 owing to this treatment1 a very distinctive scenic aspect of its own1 and is very striking1 the brilliant and varied pattern of vivid colour in the costume of the natives in the bazaars1 with this roseate background1 producing quite a unique effect4 ,one has1 however1 after a time an impression of unreality and unsubstantiality1 as of stage scenery which will presently be shifted4 ,the ,maharajah of ,jaipur has the reputation of being very advanced and modern in his ideas4 ,he has at anyrate set up gasworks in his city1 which also possesses a large public garden laid out in the ,european manner1 and is both horticultural and zoological1 and contains a museum and a bronze statue of ,lord ,mayo4 ,it seems rather a mistake1 in a climate like that of ,india1 to lay out grounds with broad serpentine paths and drives unshaded by trees1 and vast lawns which can only be kept up with a pretence of greenness by constant and laborious watering4 ,it is another of the mistaken foreign importations4 ,the ,eastern type of garden1 on the other hand1 is quite appropriate and adapted to the necessities of the climate4 ,its characteristics are narrow1 straight paths between closely planted groves of trees1 acacias1 plantains1 palms1 and fruit trees1 and varied with tanks and fountains1 and cool marble pavilions1 the whole enclosed in a protecting wall like an earthly paradise4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,maharajah',s ,,state ,,elephant1 ,,jaipur ,it does not cheer the ,english traveller in the ,east--at least ,i never heard that it did--to see a low wall surmounted by a cast-iron railing and common-place but pretentious gates1 enclosing a joyless 8public garden0 of a ,british vestry type4 ,the proprietors of the art depots in the bazaars of ,jaipur are very enterprising1 and resort to all kinds of allurements to induce the traveller to enter and purchase4 ,to begin with1 the tourist in his carriage is peppered with a perfect hail of white business cards flung at him by active touts1 who are always on the alert for the passing stranger in the bazaars1 who receives such seductive invitations as 8,see my shop80--8,very nice things0--8,don't want you to buy--only to look60 ,we visited a large art-dealer's store4 ,it was prettily arranged around a small covered court1 lighted from the top4 ,an arcade divided a series of rooms along each side1 both on the ground and on a second floor4 ,this court was richly carpeted and furnished with seats1 coffee tables1 and divans4 ,one device of the proprietor or manager was to invite prospective customers to witness a dance of nautch girls in this court1 presumably to conduce to a favourable mood for extensive purchases4 ,at this place was a great display of ,jaipur enamels1 applied in a variety of ways from small jewellery to large1 chased1 brass dishes and trays4 ,i saw a large dish prepared by the native craftsman 7who was sitting at work at the entrance7 for champlv enamel1 very deftly chased1 though the modern reproductions of the traditional ,indian patterns strike one as rather mechanical4 ,the skill of the craftsman is there1 but the feeling and initiative of the artist is too often wanting4 ,rajput arms and armour hung on the white walls of the court1 and there was an immense stock of all sorts of metal-work and jewellery1 mostly modern1 and numbers of small portable articles in brass1 evidently meant for the eye and the pocket of the tourist2 amongst these were quantities of small pierced brass boxes in the form of cushions4 ,i saw some interesting old ,indian miniature pictures from ,,mss4--one of a rajah shooting a bow3 he was standing upon a globe which rested on the back of an ox1 which again stood upon the back of a fish4 ,there were some suits of chain mail of extraordinary fineness1 and wonderful engraved blades of many kinds4 ,besides the well-known ,jaipur enamelled jewellery there was a quantity of precious stones--garnets1 amethysts1 sardonyx1 onyx1 and jade4 ,another speciality of ,jaipur work are the charming spherical rolling lamps4 ,these are spheres of brass chased and pierced all over with floral pattern1 and made to open4 ,inside1 by a very ingenious bit of mechanism1 a small lamp is so suspended that it always maintains a horizontal position1 and though the sphere may be rolled along the ground it never upsets the lamp within4 ,they are used in the temples at festival times4 ,these lamps are made at the ,art ,school at ,jaipur1 where many native handicrafts are practised4 ,continuing our drive about the city we were introduced to the ,maharajah's state elephant4 ,he was a fine beast1 and occupied a low walled court1 all to himself and his keeper4 ,his forehead1 trunk1 and ears were decorated with an elaborate painted arabesque--a pattern in which vermilion1 yellow1 and turquoise predominated4 ,his enormous tusks had had their points truncated1 and these were tipped and bound with moulded bands of brass4 ,the animal was tethered by one of his hind feet to a post1 and stood in the shade of the high palace wall1 tranquilly munching stalks of some kind of corn4 ,i reproduce the sketch ,i made at the time of the elephant and the old man1 his keeper4 ,after tiffin we visited the palace4 ,one could not say much for the taste of some of the decorations4 ,we were shown several large durbar halls with open colonnades1 which1 however1 were closed by hangings1 which our guide--a tall1 grey-whiskered ,rajput--lifted up to show the interiors4 ,the vaulted ceilings were painted with patterns on rather a large scale and in crude reds and blues1 rather open and spread out over the white plaster1 and somewhat coarse in form4 ,we were then led through the gardens1 which were laid out with long tanks with flagged walks each side1 lined with gas lamps1 but there was no water in the tanks4 ,farther on we passed through a gateway at the top of a flight of steps to the alligator tank4 ,here a native attendant having tied a piece of meat to the end of a string1 another set up a curious weird call1 while yet another ran on to the shore of the lake or tank1 and did his best to wake up one or two very torpid alligators which lay in the sunshine by seizing hold of their tails and making them take to the water4 ,finally1 after much persuasion1 two alligators were induced to come up for the food4 ,one of these--an old one with no teeth 7none of them have tongues7--opened its horrid white mouth and snapped at the piece of meat which the man dangled at the end of the string4 ,meanwhile big yellow turtles swam up to join in the game1 at which they were much quicker than the alligators4 ,large brown kites1 too1 seeing what was going on1 hovered about expectantly1 and dexterously caught fragments thrown to them in mid air4 ,the ubiquitous crow was there also1 ready for any unconsidered trifles4 ,the life of the bazaars at ,jaipur is singularly varied and interesting4 ,the streets are unusually wide as native streets go in ,india4 ,they find room to shake out long strips of newly dyed cotton to dry--a man holding the cloth at each end and waving it wildly about to dry1 so that great plashes of yellow or orange and pink are apt to illuminate the streets here and there1 as this process is a frequent incident4 ,the brightest red1 yellow1 green1 and blue and pink are also seen in the costumes or rather draperies of the people--the ,hindu women in their graceful saris1 generally in different shades of red2 the ,mohammedan women veiling their heads and shoulders in some vivid-coloured muslin--so that one had a general impression of people walking about attired in rainbows4 ,quaint1 two-wheeled vehicles were numerous1 often elaborately painted and decorated1 called recklas1 having awnings over them1 and were driven by a superior caste of natives--possibly they might be a sort of equivalent for the gig of respectability which ,carlyle writes of4 ,then there were the heavier ox-carts of the peasant1 some of them with a domed cover draped in red within which hidden from view sat the women and children4 ,another kind of cart was built of bamboo1 a curious lattice of the same forming the pole and yoke for a pair of oxen4 ,shaving1 massage1 cleaning teeth1 washing1 and all the necessary operations1 which in the west are generally performed in private1 are in ,indian native quarters carried on in the open4 ,the natives do not seem to know what privacy is or to feel the need of it4 ,the little naked brown babies everywhere playing freely about are delightful4 ,great flocks of pigeons 7blue rocks7 are always flying about or swooping down to be fed with grain in the open spaces by women2 but they are driven away from the heaps of grain for sale in the bazaars4 ,the women carry everything upon their heads1 and seem to do most of the porterage--bearing endless baskets of brown fuel made in rough flat cakes1 bundles of wood1 straw1 sugar-cane1 green stuff1 bedding1 and water jars4 ,in ,rajputana the women wear a rather full skirt under the sari1 in many pleats rather after the style of an ,albanian fustanelle4 ,masses of bracelets1 sometimes completely covering their brown arms1 are worn1 either of coloured glass1 or lacquered metal1 or silver1 and silver anklets as a rule with little bells attached4 ,armed horsemen are frequently seen riding in from or out into the country4 ,elephants1 camels1 and flocks of goats vary the street scenes1 and residents' carriages with outriders2 camels are also sometimes used to draw vehicles1 driven in pairs4 ,illustration3 ,,to ,,amber ,,on ,,an ,,elephant ,musicians1 with the peculiar long handled ,indian guitar1 jugglers1 conjurers1 snake charmers1 vendors of stuffs and embroideries1 and photograph sellers haunt the open arcades of the hotels and use every device to attract the attention of travellers4 ,a visit to the deserted city of ,amber and its palace is one of the principal excursions outside ,jaipur4 ,it is best to start early in the morning1 as there is a four to six miles drive by carriage to reach the place whence the ascent to ,amber on elephants' backs is made4 ,the road thither takes the visitor through a section of the city of ,jaipur1 and passes out on the other side into a road skirted with trees and gardens1 from amidst which rise the domes of the pavilions of wealthy ,rajputs4 ,the ,alligator lake is again passed1 and some distance beyond this the foot of the hill is reached1 when the traveller is expected to leave his carriage and mount one of the elephants in waiting there to take him up to ,amber--another two miles4 ,it is necessary to be furnished with a formal permission from the ,resident to visit ,amber4 ,formerly elephants were placed at the disposal of visitors by the ,maharajah1 but since tourists became numerous elephants must be hired by them4 ,they are by no means richly caparisoned elephants4 ,the housings leave much to be desired1 and the seats are much out of repair1 and one is lucky to find the foot-board slung at a usable level and fairly horizontal1 and if the protecting rail of the seat does not slip out4 ,for those who are willing to sacrifice processional dignity and spectacular effect1 however1 as well as a slow shaking1 it is quite possible to walk--for the able bodied1 and before the sun is high4 ,after a steepish hill at first the road descends again1 and passing along the border of a small lake1 turns round at its head and again ascends to the palace on a considerable height1 of which a distant view is obtained1 as one approaches it1 from the road4 ,it is a striking pile of ,mohammedan architecture4 ,three great gateways are passed on the steep approach up the rocky sides of the hill1 and the road is protected by a wall1 as at ,chitorgarh4 ,finally the great gateway leading into the courtyard of the palace is reached1 and we dismount from the elephant and are surrounded by a number of hangers-on1 one of which comes forward to act as guide over the palace1 which showed traces of considerable restoration4 ,the great doors of solid brass were exceedingly fine 7both here and at the ,maharajah's palace in ,jaipur--really the best things there74 ,there were also doors beautifully inlaid with ivory and ebony to some of the zenana rooms1 all the doors being interesting for their woods and joinery4 ,there were some delicate pierced marble screens over the gateway of the inner court which had a most lovely effect seen against the sky4 ,the rooms were very elaborately decorated with a sort of veneer of small pieces of looking-glass arranged in arabesque1 and united by cloisonn of gesso forming the lines of divisions of the pattern1 similar to that we had seen at ,udaipur4 ,this decoration1 carried all over a vaulted ceiling1 in the sunlight reflected from the floor1 glittered like beaten silver4 ,on the lower halls were delicate marble panels of floral designs in relief4 ,the palace as a whole did not strike us as so beautiful as that at ,udaipur1 although vastly more so than the ,maharajah's at ,jaipur4 ,illustration3 ,,shopping ,,in ,,jaipur ,from the roof and terraces we looked down on gardens and pavilions and on the lake below1 then partially dry1 and wondered how this vast palace with all its luxurious decoration came to be deserted4 ,a temple at the main entrance1 however1 is still maintained for worship1 which is that of ,kali--one of the aspects or secondary characters of ,parvati1 the wife of ,siva--a savage1 blood-thirsty goddess only propitiated by animal sacrifices4 ,a goat or a kid is still sacrificed daily here4 ,it was pathetic enough to see the innocent1 unconscious intended victim--a poor little kid tied at the corner of the platform of the temple by a little heap of sand4 ,mr ,w4 ,s4 ,caine gives a graphic account of how the head of the victim is instantaneously cut off by the officiating priest1 an act he witnessed1 but we felt no desire to see this execution4 ,on our way back ,i saw a curious instance of the boldness of a kite and the unerring way in which they swoop at their prey4 ,a native was walking down the hill in front of us carrying a piece of bread in his hand1 from which he ate1 swinging it at his side between whiles4 ,a kite hovering above made a sudden swoop at the bread1 which he struck with his beak1 scattering the crumbs1 though he did not succeed in knocking it quite out of the man's hand4 ,driving in the evening through the bazaars at ,jaipur we stopped the carriage to purchase some native cottons and muslins1 and were immediately surrounded by a noisy1 struggling crowd of rival traders who filled the carriage with their gay coloured stuffs1 and literally covered us up with them4 ,our bearer negotiated the bargains1 and in the end we carried off some characteristic textile souvenirs4 ,on the way back to our hotel we stopped to see the ,maharajah's horses1 passing through a gateway into a large exercise ground1 down the sides of which ran a long open shed1 with horses tethered in a line1 each horse being secured by long ropes from each hind fetlock fastened to pegs on iron rings fixed in the ground1 which sloped down to the open court4 ,in addition to these each horse was tied by a halter1 with a rope each side to rings in the manger1 and all1 of course1 had cloths on4 ,there were no partitions between the animals1 which ,i suppose was the reason of their being so carefully secured4 ,there were some very fine animals among them1 and the native grooms were very willing to show them off--for a little backsheesh4 ,there were white ,arabs1 ,walers1 ,english hunters1 and a tiny ,burmese pony4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,agra ,we left ,jaipur for ,agra on the #bith of ,december1 finding the usual excited crowd at the station4 ,the train passed through a rather dry1 plain country1 though varied by crops under irrigation4 ,we changed at a junction named ,bandakni1 the train we were in going on to ,delhi4 ,it was a refreshment station4 ,here a good tiffin was procurable4 ,going on about #d4cj in the afternoon1 we entered a more fertile and interesting country1 the crops being more abundant1 and the wells also4 ,there were some fine groves of trees1 and distant ranges of hills to be seen4 ,curious mounds and tumbled boulders varied the plains here and there in places4 ,peacocks were plentiful1 and they even occasionally strayed on to the railway metals at the stations4 ,antelopes were also to be seen1 and once an animal resembling a wolf was seen in the jungle4 ,a jungle1 by the way1 is not necessarily a slice of tropical forest1 full of long grass1 tangled creepers1 and tigers1 but may be any bit of uncultivated country4 ,we reached ,agra about #i ,p4,m4 after a comfortable journey4 ,we put up at the ,metropole ,hotel--a kind of extended bungalow1 with a two-storied centre and two long1 low wings of rooms under the usual arcaded arrangement1 with a garden in the middle4 ,the rooms were spacious and lofty1 but bare1 cheerless and cold4 ,the traveller of course must not expect any old-fashioned welcome or personal interest in his comfort or welfare in any country at any modern hostelry in these days4 ,he writes or wires for his room1 and he may be thankful if it is ready for him when he arrives4 ,he must be content to be merely ,no4 ,so-and-so1 and may not even see the host or manager at all4 ,there was1 naturally1 more or less of a rush on ,agra about this time1 as the preparations for the reception of the ,amir of ,afghanistan were far advanced1 and distinguished visitors were beginning to arrive4 ,the ,english tourist who had not furnished himself with introductions in such a place was apparently regarded as a mere worm by the superior military and official ,british circles4 ,driving to the fort next morning we were stopped by an ,english sentry1 who produced a written card of ,regulations forbidding the entrance of carriages1 so we got out and walked through the ,emperor ,akbar's great ,delhi gate 7#aeff71 which is on a fine scale1 and passed on to the ,pearl ,mosque1 the ,moti ,musjid1 built by ,shah ,jehan in #afed--the private chapel of the court of the ,mogul ,emperors--a beautiful white marble building in a fair court4 ,an ,arabic inscription records when it was built and why4 ,we passed on to the great square of the fort which was busily preparing for the reception of the ,amir1 who was expected to arrive on the #ith of ,january4 ,they were actually building out an extra portico in solid masonry adding it on to the existing ,durbas ,hall 7,diwan-i-,khas71 which was so blocked with workmen and materials it was not possible to see much inside1 and our bearer1 who was by way of acting as guide when he could1 was roughly turned back by an ,english official4 ,we made the round of the great ,akbar's ,fort1 which is certainly on a noble scale1 and returning to the ,delhi gate by ugly and mean ,british barrack buildings1 which have been put up within its massive walls1 we could not but be struck with the contrast between the work of one ,empire and that of another4 ,over ,akbar's great gate1 however1 floated our ,union ,flag4 ,illustration3 ,,aggravating ,,agra ,our next expedition was to the renowned ,taj ,mahal1 the beautiful marble tomb erected by ,shah ,jehan in memory of his favourite wife1 and which was to be his own monument also4 ,the way thither lies through the cantonments and the government gardens4 ,we passed through great encampments1 then in a state of busy preparation4 ,on the road was being erected a large triumphal arch in the ,moslem style1 upon which native workmen were engaged painting and decorating4 ,native police in khaki and red turbans lined the route at intervals1 and saluted as we drove past4 ,the ,viceroy's camp was beautifully laid out and arranged with turf1 walks1 and flowers4 ,we saw a procession of native women carrying palms and plants in pots on their heads1 from ox-carts unloading them1 for the camp4 ,camping in ,india1 indeed1 seems to be a fine art1 and is carried out in every detail with the utmost completeness4 ,in the government gardens the ideas of the ,english landscape gardener were in evidence4 ,they were laid out with serpentine walks and drives in the modern public parks style1 the large shadeless stretches of would-be turf struggling to show a little green under repeated waterings1 with groups of young trees here and there4 ,a big statue of ,queen ,victoria was placed conspicuously on the high ground in the centre of one of these desert-like lawns4 ,a little beyond we came to the magnificent gate of the ,taj1 a noble structure of red sandstone and white marble1 approached by steps4 ,passing through its deep shadow under the great arch the wonderful tomb in all its pearly whiteness1 with its graceful dome and slender minarets1 rising sparkling in the full sunlight above a green bower of trees against the deep blue of the sky1 and reflected in the still water of the long tank1 breaks upon the sight like a fairy vision4 ,the tank with terraced walks1 flagged with stone1 extends from the steps of the entrance gateway to the front of the ,taj itself1 its long line only broken by a raised marble terrace with seats about half way4 ,rows of slender cypresses enforce the long perspective which leads the eye up to the shrine4 ,the ,moslems certainly felt the importance of spacing and proportion1 and the art of leading the eye and preparing the mind for the appreciation of beautiful art and architecture by careful planning of the setting and surroundings of their great temples and tombs4 ,space is as important an element in their design as the exquisite handicraft which produced their unrivalled detail4 ,the ,taj itself is on a raised platform of stone1 and is flanked on each side by two noble mosques of red sandstone splendidly inlaid with white marble4 ,it was the rich decorative effect of such materials no doubt which suggested to the ,maharajah of ,jaipur the painting of his town red1 which ,i refer to in a previous chapter1 but the reality compared with the imitation is as wine to water4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,taj ,,mahal1 ,,from ,,the ,,gateway ,the ,taj first impresses one by its beautiful proportion1 and the completeness of its ensemble4 ,it is like a fair woman whose general carriage and aspect charms the eye before we are near enough to appreciate the full beauty of her face and form1 or to note the exquisite taste of her delicate attire4 ,as one approaches this wonderful shrine which1 although so ornate1 possesses a fine breadth in general effect1 the beauty and finish of its decorative detail excites a new admiration4 ,there are delicate designs of lilies and tulips and crown imperials cut in marble in low relief1 forming the panelling of the lower walls4 ,these are framed in small-scale1 formal floral designs1 inlaid with precious stones1 such as jasper1 coral1 bloodstone1 sardonyx1 lapis-lazuli1 onyx1 turquoise1 and other kinds done in a manner associated with ,florentine work1 and it is said ,italian workmen were employed here4 ,then we have the crowning beauty of the pierced work in the marble screens which enclose the tombs1 and break the brilliant light at the apertures under the dome4 ,these are the jewellery and lace of this architectural personality4 ,there is something of the fine lady about her--if one may use the personal pronoun1 but one cannot forget the twenty thousand workmen whose twenty-two years' toil contributed to her splendour2 and it is recorded1 too1 that their work was done under conditions of semi-starvation1 and at the price of many lives1 over and above the four millions of money at which the cost is usually estimated4 ,well1 it remains their monument as well as that of ,shah ,jehan and his wife ,arjamand ,banu3 #afdh is the date of the completion of the ,taj4 ,i was somewhat disappointed not to find the eastern garden described by ,edwin ,arnold1 and which was seen here by ,mr ,w4 ,s4 ,caine--a bowery1 romantic garden full of fruit trees--8orange and lemon1 pomeloes1 pomegranates1 palms1 flowering shrubs and trees1 with marble fish-ponds and fountains1 speaking of the ,east in every whisper of their leaves and plash of their waters40 ,there is still a charming garden1 but an ,anglicised one1 with open lawns1 broken by masses of beautiful and varied but rather consciously and professionally arranged trees and shrubs and palms4 ,the hand and taste of the modern gardener is a little too evident4 ,it looks as if the original somewhat wild and characteristic ,eastern garden had been taken in hand by an expert from ,kew1 and it had been tamed1 its wild locks cut off1 and the remainder combed and brushed4 ,there is an ,english country-seat or even suburban suggestion about it in parts4 ,i cannot but think that it was a pity not to maintain the garden in its ,eastern character1 considering the monument it encloses4 ,however1 it would take even more professional treatment to prevent beautiful trees and flowers from being delightful4 ,the garden is still a pleasant place to wander in1 and interesting views of the white domes and minarets1 rising above masses of foliage1 can be had everywhere in it4 ,here1 at the end of ,december1 one enjoyed the temperature1 and the sunshine1 tempered by the shade of trees1 of a normal ,june day in ,england4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,mainstay ,,of ,,india4 ,,aquarius--,,the ,,water-,,bearer ,as regards the garden1 ,i was told that when it was in its original state as a fruit garden a certain amount of revenue was realised by the sale of the produce4 ,when ,lord ,curzon heard of this he considered it not fitting1 and ,i understood that he was responsible for the alteration in the character of the garden1 which requires the constant attention of the water-bearer with his goatskin4 ,agra possesses a fine mosque in the ,jama ,musjid1 built by ,shah ,jehan in #afdd4 ,it is a building of red sandstone and white marble4 ,the big dome is inlaid in zigzags of white marble and red sandstone alternately1 the whole surface being covered in this way with striking effect4 ,it is an interesting drive through the bazaars and over the bridge of boats across the river ,jumna1 and through a native village1 to the mausoleum of ,itmad-ud-,daulat4 ,in this beautiful building1 which is approached through a massive arched gateway of red sandstone and across a walled garden1 one sees a prototype of the ,taj ,mahal4 ,in this case there is a central dome and four minarets1 only the cupola is lower and of a flatter curve1 and the minarets are not detached from the body of the building which is much lower than the ,taj4 ,in the design and execution of its decorative detail1 however1 it surpasses the ,taj in inventiveness1 and variety and richness1 both in pierced and carved work and its pietra dura4 ,the detail of the ,taj1 beautiful and finely finished as it is1 has in comparison1 perhaps1 rather the look of having been done to order1 whereas in buildings of earlier date like this one we seem to see the more spontaneous invention of the craftsman4 ,the restoring hand of ,lord ,curzon1 however1 has touched this monument also1 and a new marble balustrade around the flat roof has been added under his orders4 ,there are lovely views from the minarets4 ,we visited the ,taj ,mahal again by moonlight4 ,it was the #cjth of ,december and the moon was full1 but it was chilly driving out after dinner and wraps were necessary4 ,there was a light mist from the river which hung over the garden1 and slightly veiled the lower part of the building as we approached it down one of the long paths chequered by the shadows of the trees4 ,the front was in shadow and looked mysterious in the mist1 but the dome seemed made of pearl rounded in the full moonlight in splendid relief against the dark deep blue of the night powdered with brilliant stars1 while the four minarets were like helmeted sentinels in shining armour1 guarding the sacred shrine4 ,the moonlight was bright enough for me to make a sketch by4 ,i also made two coloured drawings of the ,taj by daylight1 one of which--8the ,taj ,mahal from the rose garden0 was afterwards purchased by ,h4,m4 ,the ,queen1 and the other1 from the gate1 is reproduced here4 ,agra was full of ,british and native soldiers1 and more were continually arriving4 ,we passed trains of field artillery marching through the government gardens1 and bell tents covered the ground like mushrooms4 ,in many places earth banks had been cut in tiers for seats1 and strings of small flags fluttered across many of the streets1 and there were also seats and stands of timber being erected4 ,agra could think of nothing but the ,amir4 ,the ,english and other churches are not admirable examples of modern architecture1 and never seem to look at home in ,india4 ,there was a ,roman ,catholic ,church here after the manner of an eighteenth century one1 but any merit it might have had was obscured by its colour4 ,it had been1 so to speak1 put into a grey uniform with buff facings4 ,the ,english ,church was treated in the same way4 ,this must be military influence4 ,my impression certainly was that civilians did not count for much at ,agra4 ,in the bazaars we found we were able to make purchases with rather less accompaniment of drama than at ,jaipur4 ,european goods were much in evidence1 of the cheap and nasty sort as a rule1 ugly socks and scarves and cottons1 and tin ware4 ,i saw a crowd of natives clustering round the trumpet mouth of a gramophone--an instrument which seems to have considerable charms for them4 ,it was chilly enough in the early mornings and in the evenings at ,agra1 and our ground-floor rooms were none of the warmest1 although1 of course1 the sun was very powerful in the middle of the day4 ,the ,hotel proprietors were looking forward to full houses and high prices during the ,amir's visit1 and enormous sums were mentioned as probable charges for rooms1 but we had no intention of staying through the festivities4 ,our last excursion from ,agra was to ,sikandra--five miles away to the ,north ,west--where we drove to see the tomb of ,akbar4 ,the road was a dusty one1 but through pleasant acacia avenues4 ,we passed through several mud-built villages1 and presently saw white minarets rising above a belt of trees in the distance4 ,at one part of the road where the square tower of an ,english ,mission ,church was seen among trees we were reminded for a moment of a bit of ,norfolk1 but only for a moment4 ,soon we reached the great red-stone gateway which was on a splendid scale1 and elaborately inlaid with marble1 exceedingly fine in style1 parts had been restored1 and all the four white marble minarets were said to be new and placed there by ,lord ,curzon1 not ,i presume without good evidence of the former existence of such minarets1 but such renewals cannot possess any historic interest and are in doubtful taste4 ,the gate was adorned with ,togra and ,arabic inscriptions1 which1 cut in sunk relief in white marble1 formed a frame work enclosing panels of larger pattern in marble inlay4 ,pilasters of red sandstone on the front were in zigzag courses1 alternately white and red1 like the work on the dome of the ,jama ,musjid at ,agra4 ,from the gateway a long and broad flagged way1 intersected by tanks1 led us up to the tomb1 across a wide park full of fine trees1 tamarinds and mangoes chiefly4 ,arrived at the great tomb1 the cupolas of which we had seen in front of us as we walked1 we first entered a sort of hall or atrium with richly decorated roof and walls in coloured plaster1 heightened with gold1 and with an ,arabic text in gold running round the frieze4 ,there were beautiful designs of trees and vines in panels4 ,parts had been picked out in new gold and colour1 at somebody's expense1 to bring out the pattern1 but the new work looked hard and mechanical though on good lines1 and the new gold was staring2 the effect of this partial restoration being of course patchy4 ,still1 if such restorations are allowable at all1 it is better that they should be frank and make no pretence at being really a part of the original work4 ,it would1 however1 in this case have been far better to have left it alone1 as the old gold and colour still remaining on the walls and vault was rich and deep in tone4 ,from this hall we entered a small corridor1 two native attendants going before us with lanterns to guide our steps4 ,this passage led into a vast dark domed chamber1 in the midst of which was the plain marble tomb of the great ,akbar4 ,it was impressive in its simplicity1 without any inscription or ornament1 the usual narrow parallelogram with a moulded base4 ,one of the men uttered a deep prolonged note like the exclamation ,ah6 but sustained and dwelling on the ,a4 ,this was answered by a profound and long-continued echo or reverberation1 dying gradually away1 caused ,i suppose by the height and shape of the dome4 ,one might imagine it was the voice of the dead ,emperor4 ,after seeing three more tombs1 one of which was richly and delicately carved 7a lady's71 we ascended to the terraced roof1 and from there to a second arcaded terrace1 from which still a third was reached up steps of ever increasing height in the treads1 and finally to a top story1 emerging upon a beautiful spacious arcaded court of white marble1 but with warm tints in it which made it very much the tone of ivory4 ,there were delicate1 pierced1 marble screens on each side1 through which the evening sun sparkled like gold4 ,in the centre of the court on a raised dais was the second tomb of ,akbar1 according to the usual ,mohammedan custom of placing an upper tombstone to indicate the position of the actual tomb in the vault below4 ,this tomb was most elaborately and delicately carved in white marble1 with beautifully designed floral patterns and ,arabic texts and borders of scroll work1 which were like reproductions in marble relief of the designs in the best type of ,persian carpets4 ,the aged native custodians told us that the famous koh-i-noor diamond was once here on ,akbar's tomb4 ,it might be interesting to trace its history to its present position4 ,the foliated cresting of the parapet of this marble court was also delicately carved4 ,altogether the building was one of the finest things of its type we had yet seen in ,india4 ,the blend of ,hindu construction with ,mogul work in the corbelled supports of the minarets was noticeable4 ,these corbels were trebled at the angles1 and like most of the building were of red sandstone4 ,there was a fine view of the country from this highest story of the tomb1 and we could even see the white dome of the ,taj ,mahal five or six miles away4 ,the drive from ,agra took about an hour1 and the sun had set before we returned4 ,this being ,new ,year's day ,moonsawmy our bearer smilingly came up with an offering--a plum cake with a pink sugared top and 8,a ,happy ,new ,year0 on it1 as if it had come out of an ,english confectioner's--and this1 too1 was accompanied by a garland of yellow and white flowers after the native manner--one for each of us4 ,he said this was customary1 and with his good wishes he managed to convey a gentle hint that his 8jentilmens0 usually made him a little present in return4 ,this rather rubbed a little of the sugar off1 but1 of course1 we did not forget him4 ,he was not a bad servant on the whole1 though rather too old and cunning a bird in some ways4 ,he had rather extravagant ideas in ordering carriages1 which we afterwards discovered were not totally unconnected with certain commissions extracted from the carriage proprietors4 ,no doubt1 however1 native bearers regard the ,european tourist as fair game--it is not unheard of in ,europe--and they1 like other classes after their manner1 lose no opportunity of making the most of the chances of their rather uncertain profession4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,gwalior ,we left ,agra for ,gwalior on the #bnd of ,january4 ,departing from ,agra ,road about #aa in the morning we arrived at ,gwalior between #c and #d o'clock in the afternoon4 ,we hoped to meet an ,indian friend here1 who was a doctor in the suite of the ,maharajah1 and whom we had known in ,london when he was studying for his degree4 ,he was1 however1 absent at ,calcutta1 so we had to shift for ourselves4 ,there was1 however1 an excellent guest-house built by the ,maharajah for the use of visitors to ,gwalior1 not far from the station1 where we found comfortable quarters1 very superior to most of the hotels we had had experience of4 ,the building itself was a charming pavilion in the ,mogul style1 with domes1 arcades1 and pierced stone work balconies1 and elaborately carved doorways1 the material of which it was built being a sort of yellow sandstone4 ,we were allotted a spacious room opening on to a pleasant terrace and connected with balconies which extended entirely around the house1 and from here we could see the famous ,rock of ,gwalior with its fort and ,temples and the old palace of ,man ,mandir conspicuous at its further end4 ,there was a large central hall or living room1 and in this was a blazing fire which shed its cheery light and welcome warmth4 ,there was a good piano and ,english furniture4 ,there was a sort of clerestory high in the lofty wall1 but no direct light1 so that in the daytime this room was in comparative gloom1 by no means ungrateful after the glare of the sun4 ,the dining-room was fully lighted and opened on to a portico4 ,in front of the building was a garden with a rather burnt up piece of lawn encircled by a carriage drive4 ,we found a singular silent and reserved company of ,anglo-,indians at dinner--a lady and three gentleman--only one of the latter manifesting the slightest interest in us4 ,no one appeared at breakfast the following morning but an ,english governess and a child she was in charge of4 ,illustration3 ,,to ,,gwalior ,,fort ,,by ,,palanquin ,we started in a carriage to drive to the fort1 stopping on the way to see the tomb of ,mohammed ,ghaus1 the dome of which is visible from the guest-house4 ,it is a noble tomb of yellow sandstone1 with fine screen-work4 ,it dates from the early part of ,akbar's reign4 ,we crossed a river by a bridge and entered a decayed-looking native town1 passing up a straggling street of low houses to the first gate of the fortress4 ,there we might have hired an elephant to take us up the steep road to the fort1 but the elephant had been already bespoke by a party of ,british officers4 ,a palanquin 7or jhampan7 was produced1 however1 in which my wife seated herself and was carried up the hill by four bearers1 four more accompanying them as relays4 ,as for me ,i preferred to walk up1 and our ,moonsawmy went with us4 ,we passed through several gateways4 ,the ,hindu carvings of one called the ,ganesha ,gate had been defaced by the ,mohammedans4 ,soon the towers of the old palace of ,man ,mandir rose in view near the summit1 each crowned with a circular cupola4 ,it is a striking building of remarkable character in reddish-yellow sandstone1 faced in parts by turquoise blue and yellow tiles1 courses of these tiles running across the faade4 ,the angle tower and some of the tile-work at the top had been restored4 ,there was a frieze of geese in yellow on a turquoise-blue ground1 the birds in profile1 each showing an expanded wing and set close together4 ,the design resembled the carved figures of birds often seen on the ,jain temples4 ,the architecture here being ,hindu1 was much more massive than the ,mogul work hitherto seen1 and showed much variety and invention in the carved corbels and brackets in the interior4 ,i made a note of a peacock bracket in which the tail is effectively treated1 the bird being considerably formalised in adapting it to its architectural purpose4 ,there was another of a fantastic elephant4 ,elephant heads with their uplifted trunks1 by the way1 were carved as brackets to support the balconies at the ,guest ,house1 where also ,i noted that the detail of some of the carved work of the door heads at the old palace had been reproduced4 ,the doorways were rather low and small1 and the whole building had more the character of a castle than a palace4 ,on the flat table land on the summit of the rock there were several ,jain temples1 masses of carving within and without4 ,the ,sas ,bahu is the principal ,jain temple1 and there is also a ,hindu temple on the rock--near the farther end from ,man ,mandir--the ,teli-ka ,mandir4 ,this stands in a graveyard1 full of carved fragments and upright stones4 ,the elephant bearing the party of ,british officers passed us as we were exploring the temples4 ,there are some ugly barracks1 which are very much out of keeping with the historic architecture of the ,rock4 ,the old fort has stood many a siege4 ,caine calls it 8the cockpit of ,central ,india10 and 8it has been stormed or starved into submission a dozen times at least40 ,it seems to have been originally fortified in #ggc ,a4,d41 and at various periods since to have alternately fallen into the hands of ,hindu or ,mussulman1 as now one and now the other prevailed4 ,akbar the ,great took it in #aeef1 and we find the ,east ,india ,company in possession in #aghj1 who took it from ,sindhia and gave it to the ,rana of ,gohad4 ,then ,sindhia retook it1 and so it has remained with the ,sindhias 7to which family the present ,maharajah belongs7 practically ever since4 ,the ,rock has always been well supplied with water and has many tanks4 ,we had a commanding prospect of the country1 stretching in a vast plain for miles around4 ,we could see the ,maharajah's palace amidst its parks and gardens--a white building among the green foliage1 and nearer the foot of the ,rock the new town of ,gwalior1 called ,lashkar4 ,we descended on the farther 7northern7 side of the rock by a winding road1 and from here we saw some huge carved figures cut in the face of the sandstone cliffs in bold relief4 ,most of these are said to represent ,adinath1 the first ,jain pontiff1 but there is a seated figure of ,nemnath1 the twenty-second pontiff4 ,each bear their symbols1 that of the first being a bull and of the second a shell4 ,there are life-size as well as small figures cut on the lower parts of the cliff4 ,the effect of these strange carvings is very weird4 ,they have an impersonal and unrelated look1 and give one the impression of being more ancient than they really are2 but they only date from ,a4,d4 #adda to #adgd4 ,we found our carriage waiting for us at the foot of the hill1 having driven round the ,rock from the old town1 and we got back to the ,guest ,house about noon4 ,in the late afternoon we drove to the ,maharajah's palace1 and presenting our cards1 were shown over the rooms by a very polite ,english officer4 ,the building is in a sort of late ,italian ,renaissance style1 all white outside1 with a great display of pilasters and columned porticoes4 ,we entered a vast durbar hall in white and gold1 with modern ,french-looking furniture with curly legs upholstered in green4 ,there were many photographs of recent ,english ,governor-,generals on the walls1 as well as indifferent full-length1 life-sized portraits in oil of the late ,maharajah4 ,the best of these was said to have been painted by one ,scott--a landscape painter 7674 ,in one of the smaller rooms there was an ,english water-colour drawing of ,sussex ,downs by ,a4 ,f4 ,grace 7whom ,i remember at ,heatherly's in student days71 and several photographic official groups of the usual type1 in which the ,maharajah is seated by the ,prince of ,wales1 surrounded by rows of officials and notabilities1 all with 8eyes front40 ,we wrote our names in the visitors' book1 and then drove through the grounds1 which are very extensive4 ,in one part lions are kept--apparently in a most insecure way1 as they not unfrequently escape and ravage the country round4 ,in fact1 this had quite recently happened1 and natives had been killed by them4 ,a very taciturn gentleman at the ,guest ,house had been pointed out to us by the more genial of our fellow-countrymen there as the official who had been sent by the ,maharajah to fetch the wandering lions back1 and he had been over a distance of about three hundred miles before he succeeded in 8rounding them up40 ,he did not tell us1 however1 how it was done1 though he had a look as of one who 8could a tale unfold0--not to speak of a lion's tail6 ,when we saw the place where these lions were kept we were not surprised that they should have been able to escape if they had a mind to4 ,we looked down on them as they were gnawing some bones4 ,they were loose in a sort of open court1 overgrown with grass1 and enclosed within four plastered walls which any cat could have scaled1 no palisading or iron railing at the top4 ,there were five lions and one lioness visible4 ,the remains of their repast of meat was pounced on by kites and crows with much clamour4 ,we next saw the ,maharajah's elephants1 and passed down a long line of them1 chained by the fore-legs1 down one side of an open courtyard1 all eating what looked like the stalks of ,indian corn4 ,there were about thirty elephants here4 ,one of them was handsomely painted on the forehead in a similar way to the state elephant we saw at ,jaipur1 but none of them had quite such big tusks4 ,returning through the gardens1 we passed the older palace2 also a white building1 but in the ,mogul style1 with many domes and minarets1 and facing a large tank with marble steps4 ,our party at the ,guest ,house was increased at dinner by two very pleasant ,american ladies1 who1 owing to their powers of conversation1 caused the very reserved ,anglo-,indians to melt a little and show some signs of human interest1 especially when one of the ladies related her thrilling experiences during the ,san ,francisco earthquake4 ,the next morning we visited the newer city of ,gwalior1 which we had seen from the fort4 ,the streets were fairly wide1 and some had varied and picturesque fronts in plaster-work4 ,we were driven to the gate of a big and rather new ,hindu temple1 spoiled by the insertion of crude pieces of coloured glass1 of the commonest ,european make1 in the fan-lights of the doors on each side4 ,a sacred bull of black marble and a snake fetish were the most interesting things there4 ,in the same court was an older temple raised on a flight of steps4 ,to approach this1 one's shoes had to be taken off1 and from the door only a peep was allowed into the dark interior1 which1 as far as ,i could see was painted all over with figures of deities and emblems in a barbaric way in coarse and crude colours4 ,the thing to look at1 it appeared1 was a portrait of the late ,maharajah in his jewels1 on what we should call the high altar1 which was suddenly illuminated by artificial light by one of the native attendants4 ,zebu cows were wandering freely about in the court of the temple1 and here for a wonder no fees were taken4 ,illustration3 ,,in ,,the ,,bazaar1 ,,gwalior ,we went into the new market1 which had been opened by the ,prince of ,wales on his visit the previous year4 ,it was not1 however1 very busy1 and many of the stalls were empty4 ,it seemed of doubtful advantage to the natives1 who preferred to do business in the bazaars4 ,there appeared to be a good supply of fresh vegetables1 but very few buyers4 ,the most interesting stalls were those of the bead sellers4 ,there were beads of every variety of colour and size4 ,the stalls were about the height of ordinary shop-counters1 and on these platforms1 which extended without divisions along the centre and sides of the market hall1 the native traders squatted with their wares in front of them1 women as well as men4 ,some of them were engaged in stringing the beads1 and one man was plaiting a cord1 the strands of which were fixed to a hook fixed on an upright stick supported on a stand4 ,he used his toes like fingers to hold out and divide the strands as he worked4 ,with the assistance of our bearer we made some purchases1 and again later in the bazaar1 when1 as the carriage was stopped1 ,i made a sketch of the scene in front of us1 but under difficulties1 as we were immediately surrounded on all sides by an eager concourse of swarthy1 interested spectators1 who refused to budge in spite of the rather mild remonstrances or commands of a native policeman1 who1 ,i imagine1 used the ,hindu equivalent for 8,pass along0 or 8,move on10 but they didn't4 ,under this 8crowd of witnesses0 ,i endeavoured to complete my sketch1 and then we moved on4 ,extending our drive on the ,morar ,road1 we passed the camp of the ,maharajah's soldiers in waiting for the ,amir's coming1 as after the ,agra reception was over he was to pay a visit to the palace at ,gwalior for tiger-shooting4 ,we enjoyed a quiet life at ,gwalior1 and ,i was able to make several drawings unhindered by too curious crowds4 ,the ,guest ,house was one of the quietest places imaginable1 although visitors came and went and even motor-cars were seen4 ,there was something almost mysterious in the way guests would appear and disappear--at table one day and vanished the next2 covers would be laid too for guests who never appeared4 ,tents which were pitched on the ground outside the ,guest ,house for other unseen visitors would be clean gone as we looked out in the morning4 ,everything seemed so transitory2 even a native boy1 when ,i wanted to make a drawing of him1 was nowhere to be found1 and ,i had to make the best of it with an unwilling and quite inferior substitute1 who had no idea of keeping still1 and even ended the seance by squatting on the ground with his back to one6 ,it struck me that the natives do not like being drawn or painted1 as a rule1 to judge by the various attempts one made to secure models4 ,the one wanted always disappeared when the time came1 and another1 but not a better and without the same characteristics1 offered4 ,the little palm squirrels were very numerous here1 and would scamper about the terraces and balconies of the ,guest ,house1 and even chase each other into our rooms1 or come up for the crumbs we scattered1 sitting up on their haunches to nibble at them1 held in their fore-paws in true squirrel fashion4 ,equally familiar were the sparrows which flew in and out1 unmolested and fearless1 even perching sometimes on the breakfast table4 ,the crows too would congregate on the balcony rails if any feeding was going on1 frequently joining us at afternoon tea1 at a respectful distance1 though within short range of the scattered crumbs4 ,illustration3 ,,callers ,,at ,,the ,,guest ,,house1 ,,gwalior ,we witnessed several very lovely sunsets over the ,rock of ,gwalior1 a type of frequent occurrence being an arrangement of long1 low stratus clouds1 brilliantly illuminated on their under edges as the sun sank below the horizon1 the light deepening from orange into crimson4 ,another type consisted of golden fleeces of high cirrus clouds1 rippling out over spaces of turquoise4 ,we paid another visit to the old town of ,gwalior and climbed the hill as far as the third gate1 where ,i made a sketch showing the towers of the ,man ,mandir ,palace through the arch4 ,from a terrace extending along the hill near this gate there is a fine panoramic view1 the old town lying below1 partly ruined and deserted1 a mass of crumbling walls and complicated roof plans mingled with trees and gardens4 ,the first gate at the foot of the hill1 where is the guard-house1 is interesting as showing the inlaid enamelled tile-work which decorates it partially4 ,deep turquoise is the prevailing colour1 and it is used for the field or background of the designs1 and is inlaid in pieces cut to fit the interstices of the pattern in the yellow sandstone4 ,in a frieze of geese in close formal procession1 the birds were cut in sunk relief1 and the spaces between were filled with turquoise pieces4 ,the tile decoration on the ,man ,mandir ,palace has been done in the same way1 yellow and green tiles being also used4 ,we drove through the bazaar of the old town1 a queer1 half-ruined1 and ragged place1 but exceedingly picturesque1 the natives squatting on their stalls1 presiding over curious preparations of food and other wares1 with chatting1 many-coloured groups crowding around4 ,some of the people would look curiously at us1 some would salaam1 some were indifferent1 others were derisive or sullen4 ,illustration3 ,,approach ,,to ,,the ,,palace ,,of ,,man ,,mandir1 ,,gwalior ,there was rather an important-looking mosque with minarets in the town1 but many of the houses were roofless and deserted4 ,in crossing the bridge over the river we noted the people washing clothes1 and a pretty pattern of colour was formed when the stuffs were spread out over the sandbanks to dry4 ,here1 in central ,india1 we were able to see more of the everyday life of the people1 and had more opportunities of quiet observation of country life than usual4 ,the peasants did not seem to have the curiosity of the natives in the towns1 when one sat down to make a drawing1 but they went on their way1 bearing their burdens1 or driving ox-carts1 or herds of goats1 or buffalo cows1 or asses4 ,it was quite a change to get a grey cloudy effect which occurred one morning when ,i had found an interesting subject by the river side4 ,on the way thither we passed a village burning-place1 strewn with heaps of ashes where the dead had been burned4 ,the river had shrunk to a small1 shallow stream1 and at the spot where ,i sat was crossed by stepping-stones1 over which groups of natives constantly passed to and fro4 ,cattle and ox-carts splashed through a shallow ford at intervals1 and higher up natives bathed their brown bodies in the water4 ,we were on the outskirts of the old town of ,gwalior1 and could see above on the rock the dark shapes of the ,jain temples looming up against the sky1 while around us were domes of cenotaphs1 fragments of tombs1 and broken walls1 overshadowed by groups of fine banyan trees and mangoes4 ,at an old draw-well near by groups of native women were continually coming and going1 bearing their water-jars on their heads1 their draperies forming delightful schemes of colour4 ,a dark thin ,hindu in a white turban and waist-cloth was ploughing up his small patch of land near the river for potatoes1 which members of his family working with him were preparing to sow4 ,there were several sons--youths--two women1 and some small children1 all working on the land4 ,i made a note of the plough1 a very primitive implement1 having a single shaft fixed at a right angle to the share1 with a cross-handle at the top4 ,this the ploughman held with one hand--his left--guiding the plough1 while with his right he drove a small pair of zebus under a yoke1 who dragged it along4 ,the share was a wedge-shaped piece of wood1 tipped with iron at the point and along its edge4 ,moonsawmy talked to the man while ,i made my notes1 and he told me afterwards that the ploughman never managed to earn as much as #bjj rupees in the year1 though he and his family--,i suppose about ten or a dozen all told--were constantly at work4 ,his patch of land being near the river1 one would have thought favourable for raising crops2 but it appeared the river not infrequently was completely dry1 and they were hard put to it for water for the soil4 ,the income of the whole family worked out at about thirteen pounds a year at the most1 which1 taking into consideration that it had to be the support of about a dozen people1 seemed narrow enough1 and one could easily understand that the slightest failure of the crops would mean something like famine4 ,this state of things bears out the estimates of the average income of the ,indian ryot1 calculated by the late ,william ,digby1 ,c4,i4,e41 after long residence and experience in ,india1 the results of whose study of the question are given in detail1 from undisputed authorities1 in his striking work1 8,prosperous ,british ,india10 in which is accumulated an appalling mass of evidence1 all pointing to the conclusion that for famine should very largely be read poverty1 which is also the root cause of bubonic plague4 ,the railways1 of course1 might convey corn to the starving districts1 but where the people have no money to pay for it they must starve all the same1 ,government relief-works being the only alternative2 but this sort of relief must often be too late for poor creatures reduced by hunger and too weak to work4 ,the ordinary unprejudiced observer is naturally inclined to ask1 ,why this desperate poverty in an industrious population1 supposed to be under beneficent ,british rule and administration8 ,the answer must be sought in the fact that thirty millions and upwards are annually extracted from the country without any equivalent return1 and this must necessarily mean a heavy burden of taxation on the chief sources of wealth1 land and labour4 ,one of the greatest principles of our ,constitution of which our public men are never tired of boasting is1 8,no taxation without representation10 or1 8,taxation and representation must go hand in hand40 ,this principle is1 however1 entirely ignored in ,india1 where ,british rule is as autocratic as that of ,russia4 ,is it surprising in these circumstances that there should be 8unrest08 ,the educated ,hindu or ,mohammedan--the many who come to ,england and are trained in ,english ,universities1 or read for the ,bar1 or study for their degrees in medicine1 feel that there is no part or lot for them in the administration of the affairs of their own country except in a very subordinate way4 ,i understand that the highest ,government post a native can attain to is the office of assistant-commissioner4 ,time was when1 after the great upheaval of the ,mutiny--which was really an attempt to regain possession of the reins of government by the native princes of ,oude1 the principle of native representation under ,british administration was advocated by leading ,english politicians4 ,nothing1 however1 came of it1 and the policy of the ,india ,office has remained unchanged through all the changes of party government1 there being no difference in this matter between ,liberals and ,conservatives4 ,a ,liberal like ,mr ,john ,morley1 when in office as ,indian ,secretary1 promptly orders the arrest and deportation without trial of ,indian agitators under an old law of the ,east ,india ,company which has never been ratified by the ,english ,parliament4 ,mr ,laipat ,rai1 however1 appears to be a self-sacrificing and devoted advocate of the cause of his people1 and as editor certainly cannot have written so strongly against the ,english ,government as ,mr ,h4 ,m4 ,hyndman1 who has for years past denounced the conduct of the ,india ,office1 while challenging attention to and redress of the system under which the people of ,india are impoverished4 ,the attenuated ploughman who has been the occasion of these remarks was a typical figure4 ,looking on such figures1 able only to secure a bare subsistence1 so common throughout ,india1 one cannot but feel that all the magnificence and luxury of the ,maharajahs1 as well as the heavy burden of the cost of the ,british ,government1 is maintained by the sweat of the brows and the ceaseless toil of such as these4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,delhi ,after a stay of about a week at the ,guest ,house at ,gwalior we took the road again1 or rather the railroad1 ,delhi being the next place on our itinerary4 ,we thought1 however1 to break the journey for a few hours at ,agra1 and get a view of the entry of the ,amir1 which was fixed for the #ith of ,january4 ,it was a lowering1 cloudy morning when we left our quarters and made for the railway station1 where we had a long wait in the darkness4 ,an enormous throng of natives filled the platform1 squatting on the ground or standing about in groups1 talking or sleeping under covers which hid them from head to foot4 ,most were closely wrapped up about the shoulders1 cloths being wound over the turban1 even so that they had generally a top-heavy look with bare legs4 ,their wraps were only of cotton though1 as a rule1 and did not seem adequate against the chill of the morning4 ,one little swarthy man was busy writing1 making entries on sheets of paper or perhaps bills of lading4 ,he squatted on the platform against one of the piers of the arcade1 writing by the aid of a lantern's light4 ,i noticed only one ,european besides ourselves in the throng1 and he appeared to be an ,english official and wore a pith helmet4 ,at last up came the train from ,jhansi1 and we got in1 a slumbering ,english officer occupying one of the berths4 ,the sky1 which was the only gloomy and threatening one we had experienced in ,india1 and certainly looked leaden and hopeless enough1 soon turned to rain1 and under such an aspect the country looked desolate in the extreme4 ,the tawny earth and fuzzy1 dry grass1 sparse trees of prickly acacia and scrub bushes1 the broken hillocks and mounds of clay1 looked more fruitless and forlorn under the steady1 soaking rain2 groups of poor country folk in their thin cotton clothing huddled together1 waiting at the stations we passed1 or could be seen splashing through the muddy pools to catch the train4 ,nearing ,agra1 we saw heavy artillery trains with field guns trailing along the wet roads4 ,troops had been pouring into ,agra for some time1 and while at ,gwalior a native regiment of cavalry 7lancers7 rode by the ,guest ,house1 preceded by their baggage on mules and camels4 ,at ,agra ,road ,station the rain was pouring in torrents4 ,there is an immense1 long1 exposed platform1 along which we made our way to cover under the station shed1 which was already crammed with people1 mostly ,english and ,american visitors1 army officers1 and officials4 ,the weather being quite hopeless1 we gave up the idea of seeing anything of the procession1 which of course was a military one1 and then finding there was a dining-car in waiting1 we had a scamper through the rain again down the platform to reach it4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,dash ,,for ,,the ,,dining-,,car ,,at ,,agra ,,road ,after tiffin we were just in time to catch a train on to ,delhi--in fact it had actually started1 but the courteous station-master sent an official to stop it for us1 and to see us safely in with our baggage4 ,it was now nearly noon1 but our train1 a slow passenger one1 was not due at ,delhi until #e4cj4 ,the rain continued steadily1 and damp groups of natives were gathered at the different stopping stations in various stages of discomfort4 ,they did not1 however1 appear to mind the wet so much as one would have expected1 but swathed themselves in all sorts of curious wraps up to the eyes1 leaving the legs and feet bare1 and some even squatted on the wet ground4 ,the country was again a plain for the most part1 and extensively cultivated under irrigation1 several irrigation canals being crossed by the railway4 ,green crops of young corn seemed almost hidden by charlock1 the yellow fields having almost the effect of our buttercup meadows in ,may4 ,flocks of black and white cranes were seen1 as well as a large1 blue1 grey-plumaged kind1 which are usually seen in pairs in the green corn4 ,three superior-caste ,hindus got into our compartment and occupied the cross-bench at one end4 ,one had a bad cough1 but they kept their windows open and did not seem to mind draughts4 ,coughs and throat troubles seemed1 indeed1 too common in ,india1 and we often heard distressing coughs in the hotels at night4 ,the sky towards evening began to clear in the west1 the whole solid field of rain cloud gradually lifting like a curtain1 and the sun shining out while the rain continued1 a brilliant rainbow appeared as if painted on the black wall of cloud to the eastward4 ,the line passes through a part of old ,delhi1 a vast region of broken tombs and ruined walls lying outside the walls of the present city1 and afar off we could see the domes and minarets of the ,great ,jama ,musjid ,mosque4 ,we got in in good time1 and collecting our heavy baggage sent on from ,gwalior1 drove to ,maiden's ,hotel1 through streets dark with rain and standing in pools of water1 a stormy orange sunset casting a warm glow over everything4 ,the hotel was on the usual ,indian plan1 with a centre and two arcaded wings enclosing a court1 along which a series of ground-floor1 bungalow-like bed- and bath-rooms extended1 chilly enough at this time of year in the mornings and evenings1 especially in wet weather4 ,the hotel itself was under ,english management1 and there were large open fires in the dining-room and salon1 which looked comfortable1 and the cookery was superior to most of the others we had experienced4 ,letters from ,england awaited us1 and added to our satisfaction4 ,no doubt the mails are delivered with wonderful regularity1 and so long as the traveller can arrange his tour in order that his letters shall meet him at certain places1 and does not leave before the mail arrives1 no complications occur4 ,it is only when letters follow one about instead of preceding one that delay and difficulties occur4 ,the next morning 7,january #aj7 was grey1 chill1 and damp1 when we started after breakfast to see ,delhi4 ,the hotels and the ,british residential quarter lie quite outside the native town1 as is usually the case1 amid spacious1 park-like grounds1 here pleasantly undulating1 and varied with gardens and fine groups of trees4 ,the town is walled1 and has a broad dry ditch as a farther defence4 ,we drove through the famous ,kashmir ,gate1 renowned for the ,british assault at the time of the ,mutiny1 which remains in the battered condition in which it was left after the siege1 with great shot-holes in its masonry1 as well as in the walls each side4 ,a tablet records the circumstances of the siege1 and the names of the officers and soldiers who distinguished themselves at that terrific time4 ,the gate has two ogee-pointed arches1 enclosed in rectangular mouldings in the usual ,mogul fashion4 ,as one enters the city1 inscribed tablets recording incidents of the siege are numerous1 and the ,british authorities have certainly been most careful to preserve the memory of their side of the fight along with the names of their military heroes1 and every noteworthy spot in the struggle is commemorated in this way4 ,in addition to such incidental monuments there is the ,mutiny ,memorial1 an important red-sandstone erection 7#aaj feet high7 outside the gates1 upon a rising ground1 and so placed that a complete view can be obtained from its summit of the lines of the siege4 ,at the fort1 which was formerly the ,imperial ,palace of the ,moguls 7built in ,a4,d4 #afbh-eh by ,shah ,jehan71 it is distressing to see the ruthless destruction of superb buildings for which the ,british have been responsible1 and the barbarous way in which hideous barrack structures have been substituted4 ,the fort1 or palace1 is entered through a noble1 deep-red sandstone gate4 ,the ,lahore1 or1 as it is now called1 the ,victoria ,gate1 and the fine court1 is marred by these ugly modern military barracks for which so much beauty was sacrificed4 ,we were shown two splendid halls1 the ,diwan-i-am1 or public hall of audience1 and the ,diwan-i-khas1 or private hall of audience4 ,this is of white marble with beautiful inlays of precious stones1 with a richly decorated ceiling in colour and gold4 ,a marble pedestal is pointed out as the place whereon the wonderful peacock throne stood4 ,this must indeed have been gorgeous1 the seat between two peacocks with spread tails1 and these encrusted with sapphires1 diamonds1 rubies1 and emeralds1 representing the natural colours of the plumage1 a true emblem of oriental magnificence4 ,over the arches of the arcade in this hall is a ,persian inscription in raised and gilt characters1 which reads1 8,if there is a paradise on earth1 it is this1 it is this1 it is this40 ,this costly 8paradise10 again1 was built by the builder of the ,taj ,mahal1 ,shah ,jehan1 who seems to have outshone all the ,mogul emperors by the splendour of his buildings4 ,of course there are no diamonds1 or rubies1 or emeralds left1 and even the small stones used in the decorative floral inlays have in many cases been picked out4 ,it is said that ,lord ,curzon employed ,florentine workmen to replace some of this work at his own expense4 ,the decoration of the walls and ceilings in the zenana rooms1 consisting of painted and gilded arabesques1 was very lovely1 and the marble ,akab ,baths exquisite4 ,the river 7,jumna7 formerly flowed up to the walls of the palace on that side1 and from a beautiful minaret we could see the river beyond a belt of green foliage1 and get a fine perspective view up and down of the palace wall and buildings4 ,near by1 on the other side of the court1 is the ,rung ,mahal1 which is distinguished by particularly fine pierced screen-work4 ,the vaulted rooms connected with this building were till recently used as officers' mess-rooms1 when all their beautiful decoration were obliterated with whitewash4 ,opposite to the ,akab ,baths is the ,moti ,musjid1 called the ,pearl ,mosque1 a most exquisite little building of white marble1 a cluster of three domes and many slender pinnacles terminated by lotus flowers4 ,it has many-cusped arches of ,saracenic character1 and a fine bronze door4 ,it is sad to think that these lovely buildings are after all only remnants of what were once on this spot when this ,imperial ,palace was complete in all its splendour4 ,the ,burj-i-,shameli1 the great marble bath-room2 the ,metiaz-,mehal1 a huge quadrangle of palaces enclosing a garden #cjj feet square2 the ,nobatkhama or music gate1 the ,golden ,mosque1 the hareem courts1 and fifty other lovely pavilions1 fountains1 and gardens--think of it6 ,the late ,w4 ,s4 ,caine1 writing in his 8,picturesque ,india10 adds the following passage3 8,these and other glories of the palace have all been swept away by successive barbarians4 ,nadir ,shah1 ,ahmed ,khan1 and the ,maratha chiefs were content to strip the buildings of their precious metals and jewelled thrones3 to the government of the ,empress of ,india was left the last dregs of vandalism1 which1 after the ,mutiny1 pulled down these perfect monuments of ,mughal art1 to make room for the ugliest brick buildings from ,simla to ,ceylon40 ,the ,jama ,musjid at ,delhi is on a splendid scale1 a mosque of red sandstone inlaid with white marble4 ,there are four great gateways1 approached by long flights of steps1 through which the great arcaded square court1 in which the mosque stands1 is entered4 ,reputed relics of ,buddha are shown to visitors at a shrine at one corner of the court4 ,on the eastern side the mosque faces an open plain from which a large slice of the native city1 which once surrounded the mosque1 had been cleared by the ,government4 ,this gives a clear view of the noble building on this side1 but must have been rather distinctive of the character of the place1 and one would have thought the mosque1 standing so high as it does1 would have easily dominated the native houses4 ,in fact1 if it had been designed for a site on an open plain1 there would have been no necessity to raise it on such a lofty platform4 ,modern improvers are apt to forget the logic of art4 ,we went up a side street in the native town on the other side of the mosque to see the ,jain temple1 which is an interesting and richly decorated small building in the ,mogul style of architecture1 approached by a doorway in the street and reached by a flight of steps4 ,it is extremely beautiful in detail4 ,in the curious street there were many interesting ,mogul doorways4 ,we stopped at a stall to buy some specimens of the glass and lacquered bracelets commonly worn by the native women which only cost a few annas4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,jama ,,musjid ,,mosque1 ,,delhi ,the ,chandni ,chowk 7or silver street7 is the main business street or bazaar of ,delhi4 ,it is very wide1 and has a sort of long island down the middle planted with trees4 ,this was said to have been originally an aqueduct4 ,it runs east and west1 and we saw a striking effect one evening--the glowing sunset behind the dark masses of the trees1 the end of the vista lost in mysterious gloom2 twinkling lights1 here and there1 about the white awnings of the stalls under the trees2 white turbaned figures of natives moving noiselessly up and down1 ox-carts and pony tongas1 wandering sacred zebus1 and all the mixed and varied character of an ,indian bazaar form a wonderful and picturesque ensemble4 ,individualistic commercial competition is well illustrated in the ,chandni ,chowk4 ,the traveller is besieged by touts thrusting their cards into his hand1 or throwing them into his carriage1 or surrounding it with the most importunate solicitations to see their shops4 ,we visited an ivory carver's workshop in a street leading out of the ,chowk4 ,my impression was about this1 as in regard to other native handicrafts1 that it was now a craft as distinct from an art4 ,we saw the carvers at work1 quite a number4 ,it was a species of factory4 ,there were draughtsmen and designers1 and miniature painters and inlayers1 quite distinct from the carvers4 ,the former draw the patterns on the ivory with a pencil4 ,there were some young boys learning to draw from the craft2 one was drawing a bird on a slate4 ,the skill of the ivory-carvers was very wonderful3 they could carve a figure inside an open scroll-work and leave it distinct1 and there were feats of this kind of which they seemed to be most proud2 but these craftsmen seemed to work almost mechanically1 no doubt entirely to order1 and without any initiative of their own in the way of design4 ,they sat cross-legged on the floor1 and more in one room than our factory inspectors would probably approve4 ,the works here were mostly produced for ready sale to the tourist4 ,elephants and paper knives were--,i was going to say1 walking hand in hand--all over the shop1 and small models of the ,taj ,mahal ran them close1 models of native ox-carts1 tongas1 and palkis1 the native ploughman and his yoke of oxen1 and such-like images of familiar things of ,indian life2 elaborate chess-men1 and inlaid caskets with little miniatures of the ,taj ,mahal and the ,jama ,musjid inserted1 in fact all sorts of ivory toys were there1 consciously prepared for the ,western eye1 and too often the ,western want of taste4 ,a loquacious ,parsee-looking proprietor or manager showed us over this establishment4 ,he had the air of a general director of the works1 etc4 ,while not at all pressing1 he took care to show all his attractive things1 beginning at the most elaborate and costly articles1 and skilfully grading downwards1 until in price they were within measurable distance of the visitor's purse4 ,my wife found that native home-spun linen and silks for embroidery were difficult to find in the ,chandni ,chowk1 where there were plenty of ,european goods4 ,on ,january #aath there was a slight frost4 ,the early morning was quite misty1 too1 but the sun came out later1 and there was a strong cold wind from the east in spite of the clear1 bright1 blue sky and the brilliant sunshine4 ,it suited ,delhi far better than the grey sky under which we had seen it the first morning of our visit1 and was favourable for our excursion to the ,kutab ,minar1 eleven miles out4 ,driving through the ,delhi and ,kashmir ,gates again1 and along the road past the ,jama ,musjid1 and out again at a farther gate to the south-east1 we traversed the region known as ,old ,delhi1 a wonderful tract of ruined cities1 shattered buildings1 mingled with noble tombs1 mosques1 and minarets1 extending for many miles outside the present city4 ,domes of tombs were seen on all sides1 and broken walls1 and the ground was strewn with bricks and stones4 ,trees 7acacias and tamarinds mostly7 bordered the road4 ,our native coachman 7a good guide7 spoke of ,no4 #h city1 and pointed out its ruined gate1 under which we passed4 ,farther on we took a branch road and stopped before the noble gate of the ancient city of ,indrapat with its strong walls and bastions4 ,leaving our carriage1 we passed through the gate and on past a squalid group of wretched huts1 where poverty-stricken natives huddled together about their tumble-down dwellings1 and where native children were inclined to be rude4 ,farther along the broken path we reached a spacious octagonal mosque of red sandstone on a marble platform4 ,this was the mosque of ,shir ,shah 7,a4,d4 #aeda74 ,the contrast between the dignity of this building and the squalor of the village was striking and saddening4 ,resuming our road1 we next reached the splendid tomb of ,humayun 7built by ,akbar the ,great about #aefj ,a4,d41 in memory of his father the ,emperor ,humayun74 ,an important gateway led into a garden with long tanks and flagged pathways1 bordered by formal green hedges1 which led up to a spacious platform upon which the noble tomb was built4 ,in the central chamber under the tomb the actual tombstone was screened by pierced marble4 ,there was also a smaller chamber of tombs1 each side the central one4 ,the building was of red sandstone1 inlaid with white marble with a central dome and four minarets4 ,it seemed to be a prototype of the great ,akbar's own tomb we had seen at ,sikandra4 ,then on again we went1 making another short detour from the main road to the cemetery of ,nizam-ud-din4 ,entering through the gateway1 we came upon a deep tank1 surrounded with buildings4 ,on the flattened dome of one--the ,nizam's well-house--sat a group of brown-skinned youths1 ready to dive into the water1 a dive of about seventy feet1 for backsheesh1 and the entertainment of the visitor4 ,a passage from this led into a marble court1 in the centre of which was the white1 marble-domed tomb of the ,nizam1 brilliantly decorated with arabesques in colour4 ,it reminded one of the shrine of the ,kwaja in the ,dargarh at ,ajmir4 ,there were also other tombs in the court1 one to the poet ,khusru1 whose songs are said to be still popular in ,india4 ,an interesting one is that of ,jahanara ,begum1 daughter of the ,emperor ,shah ,jehan1 on which is an inscription to the effect that she begs that nothing but grass may cover her4 ,certainly her wishes are fulfilled1 as the grass grows freely in the marble-sided tomb which has no cover4 ,up some steps was the modern tomb of ,mirza ,jahangir1 but a beautiful marble one4 ,the carving in marble and ornaments of all these tombs were exceedingly delicate and beautiful1 and would compare well with the work on the ,taj ,mahal4 ,the visitor on leaving is embarrassed by the number of claimants of fees4 ,there seemed to be a different custode for every tomb in the place1 and the crowd of hangers-on1 hungry for backsheesh1 rather spoils the pleasure which the sight of so much beautiful work gives4 ,returning to the road again and continuing our drive1 it was not long before we descried the great ,kutab ,minar rising up above the trees in front of us4 ,we had indeed caught a glimpse of it miles away1 when the tower was almost lost in the haze4 ,there is a good little bungalow close by where the traveller can get tiffin1 or put up for the night if so minded4 ,the ,minar1 tapering upwards to an astonishing height 7#bch feet71 piercing the clear blue sky1 is of red sandstone with a white marble top story4 ,there are five stories1 and the summit was formerly crowned by a small cupola and open arcade1 which was destroyed by a storm1 and a model of it has been placed near by4 ,successive bands of small carving are carried across the deep flutings1 both semicircular and rectangular alternately on the lower storey1 semicircular in the second1 rectangular in the third1 a plain cylinder forming the fourth1 while the fifth and last is partly fluted and partly plain4 ,these bands are composed of texts from the ,koran1 the ,arabic characters having a rich ornamental effect1 the carving being wonderfully sharp and unimpaired1 although it dates from the twelfth and the latter part of the thirteenth century 7,a4,d4 #abaj-bj71 having been built as a tower of ,victory1 commenced by ,kutab-ud-din1 and completed by his successor1 ,altamsh4 ,the tower was built in the centre of the old ,hindu fortress of ,lalkot 7,a4,d4 #ajfj74 ,at its foot are various ruins1 the most extensive being those of a fine ,mohammedan mosque1 constructed out of the materials of1 and incorporated with an ancient ,hindu temple1 the original columns of the latter remaining to form the colonnade of the court4 ,the images of the ,hindu gods have been mostly defaced when they occurred in the carving4 ,there is a fine ,mogul arch of red sandstone1 similar in treatment and style to 8the mosque of two and a half days0 at ,ajmir4 ,in front of this1 in the centre of the court1 stands a remarkable pillar of solid wrought iron1 supposed to date from ,a4,d4 #cjj to #djj4 ,it is dedicated to ,vishnu1 and there are lines in ,sanscrit inscribed around it4 ,the wonder is that such a massive thing in iron could have been forged at that early period4 ,returning to ,delhi by a different road we passed another important-looking tomb1 also near the outskirts of the present city1 the ruins of the ,observatories built by different rajahs in the eighteenth century1 which impress one as weighty evidences of the philosophical knowledge and culture of these native princes4 ,a moon observatory was pointed out to us1 and a vast circular building4 ,the groups of ruined buildings hereabout recalled to us the ,roman ,campagna and its fragments4 ,our coachman 7who was perhaps more careful as a guide than as a ,jehu7 collided rather violently with a tonga just outside the city1 and the consequences might have been serious1 but the wheels were the chief sufferers1 and the tonga must have got the worst of the jolt1 one of the native passengers being thrown out4 ,no bones were broken1 and the incident did not seem to be regarded as at all an unusual occurrence4 ,there seems no rule of the road in ,india1 and so risks are constantly run4 ,in the crowded streets the drivers rely on the power of their lungs to shout out warnings of their approach1 and it is a marvel people escape being run over1 and that collisions are not more frequent and worse than they are4 ,illustration3 ,,delhi ,,driving4 ,,wanted--,a ,,rule ,,of ,,the ,,road ,at the hotel1 where the custom of small1 separate1 circular dining-tables obtained1 we happened to meet a very agreeable ,anglo-,american family from ,ceylon1 who were travelling in ,india1 and were returning to their home at ,colombo1 before visiting ,japan and ,europe4 ,we discovered we had several friends in common1 and promised to visit them when we came to ,ceylon4 ,i got a coloured drawing of the ,jama ,musjid from the plain before mentioned1 where a few trees afforded a little shade1 the sun being very strong1 although a cool wind was still blowing from the east4 ,the light was particularly clear and the shadows sharp1 so that the architecture looked remarkably distinct1 the effect being almost hard4 ,we had a stroll in the park-like grounds near the ,club4 ,there was an old and much overgrown ,mogul archway here1 which had been considerably battered in the siege4 ,there were fine cypresses and other trees1 and among them little flights of green parroquets flew with their shrill scream--their flight and their notes reminding one of our swifts4 ,toucans were also to be seen1 and of course the palm squirrels4 ,we watched a whole colony of them sleeping in the hollow of a fine old banyan tree4 ,,chapter ,x ,,amritzar ,,and ,,lahore ,we left ,delhi by a night train--the ,punjab ,mail--for ,amritzar1 but we had a long wait at the station1 as the train was two hours late4 ,the station was thronged with natives bound for some religious festival connected with the approaching eclipse of the sun4 ,there was a seething mass of dark humanity at the entrance1 through which we had almost to fight our way to the platform4 ,our route was by way of ,umballa1 which we reached in the early morning4 ,the country was wrapped in a thick white mist before the sun rose1 when it gradually cleared4 ,beyond ,umballa the country was very flat1 the dry lands varied with green crops and yellow with charlock1 as before1 and dotted with acacia trees4 ,occasionally we crossed wide rivers1 or river beds1 and the usual flocks of white cranes and brown kites were seen4 ,jullumpore was another junction where our train stopped4 ,it looked an interesting place from the railway1 a walled town with towers and ancient mosques4 ,after leaving ,pillour 7the refreshment station7 a very broad river was crossed1 and on the wide sands of the dry part of its bed1 almost like a desert1 we saw a train of thirty camels moving slowly in single file4 ,we did not reach ,amritzar until about #a ,p4,m41 more than three hours after time6 ,on emerging from the station1 despite our bearer1 we were nearly torn to pieces by hotel touts4 ,illustration3 ,,she ,,won',t ,,be ,,happy ,,till ,,she ,,gets ,,everything ,,packed ,,up ,the ,alexandra hotel had been named to us and we asked for its representative1 but it appeared there was no such hotel at ,amritzar4 ,each rival tout clamoured for our custom1 declaring that the hotel he represented was the true and only successor to the mythical ,alexandra4,a ,one went so far as to say he had received a post-card from us1 but when asked to produce it only showed a letter from some one else6 ,finally we got into a carriage1 which was immediately stormed by the irrepressible touts1 one seating himself on the box1 one on the step each side1 and ,i don't know how many hanging on behind4 ,not liking the look of the first hotel they took us to1 we tried a second and decided to put up there1 and so gradually shook off the touts4 ,there was more of an ,eastern character about our quarters here than we had hitherto experienced4 ,the hotel was quite an ,oriental serai in an ,eastern garden1 our rooms being in a sort of ,indian villa1 opening on to a terrace with steps down into the garden1 with its narrow straight paths between fruit trees1 and our room was rather like a small temple or chapel with recessed walls and ogee arched doorways1 a raftered ceiling1 and clerestory windows4 ,built for coolness1 no doubt1 we now found it positively cold in the mornings and evenings1 and although there was a fireplace the lighting of a wood fire made matters worse1 for we were nearly smoked out4 ,a ,we learned afterwards that it was the custom to change the names of hotels every six months or so4 ,illustration3 ,,demon ,,hotel ,,touts ,,at ,,amritzar ,,fighting ,,for ,,their ,,prey ,there were several ,english or ,anglo-,english at table preserving their characteristic frigidity in the presence of strangers4 ,a gentleman from ,manchester was the only one who showed a friendly disposition and who had any conversation4 ,driving through the city we had recourse to smelling-bottles1 as owing to the open drains each side the streets the odours which saluted our nostrils were rather trying4 ,i had noticed these open gulleys at ,delhi and in the native quarters in other towns4 ,they run close in front of the houses and open shops of the bazaars1 and are crossed by slabs of stone placed across them at intervals to give access to the houses1 and as all sorts of refuse finds its way into them it is not surprising they should be offensive sometimes1 though it had not been nearly so noticeable elsewhere4 ,amritzar is said to have the benefit of the advice of an ,english sanitary engineer4 ,the street did not strike us as so varied and interesting as other cities we had seen1 and the house fronts seemed plainer and more modern1 as a rule1 though the streets were narrow enough4 ,illustration3 ,,through ,,amritzar--,,sit ,,tight ,,and ,,hold ,a ,,smelling ,,bottle6 ,from a sort of terrace we got our first view of the ,golden ,temple1 which is built in the centre of the large tank or lake in the centre of the city4 ,a broad paved causeway connects with the paved walk along two sides of the lake4 ,after the magnificent and beautifully proportioned ,mogul architecture of ,agra and ,delhi1 the ,golden ,temple1 built at the beginning of the nineteenth century is rather disappointing1 despite its gilded domes1 the building looking rather squat1 though the gold reflected in the rippling water has a charming effect4 ,the gilded dome of the ,atal tower also shows over the buildings behind the temple seen from the terrace4 ,leaving our carriage at this spot we were surrounded and eyed by a curious crowd4 ,rival guides apparently contended for us1 and there was a sudden quarrel1 ending in a free fight1 between two of them1 the end of which we did not remain to see4 ,the temple and its precincts is held most sacred by the ,sikhs1 ,amritzar being their religious centre1 the place is most jealously watched4 ,it seemed impossible to get away from the crowd1 who appeared to be none too friendly to strangers1 and sketching was out of the question without a bodyguard4 ,we had a very courteous and kind reception from ,dr ,dinghra1 three of whose sons we had known in ,london4 ,one son and his wife were staying with him1 and we spent a pleasant hour under his hospitable roof1 and he presented us with handsome saddle bags1 made of the local carpet1 on leaving4 ,he also introduced us to one of the leading citizens1 a magistrate1 who had an extensive pile carpet manufactory1 and he showed us over the works4 ,these were long sheds1 having round arched arcades opening on to a court1 and in these were a series of high-warp hand-looms with rows of shuttles filled with the different coloured wools hanging from the top4 ,the weavers sat1 or rather squatted1 in a row on the ground in front of the warp and worked in the pattern4 ,they were young boys and youths trained to the work early4 ,they used a small curved knife like a small sickle to shear off the ends of their threads and press them home when a particular bit of coloured pattern was finished4 ,little oblong labels written in ,arabic were placed on the warp in front of each weaver1 which gave the written directions for the colours to be used in the work4 ,no individual judgment or choice appeared to be exercised by the weavers4 ,there was a design room also open to the court under an arcade1 here some quite aged natives were preparing designs1 sketching them out in pencil or charcoal on squared paper1 quite in the ,european method1 and in some cases working from photographs of special carpets4 ,i learned from the manager that the working hours in this factory were from #h ,a4,m4 till dark4 ,the boy weavers only got one and a half annas a day6 ,we finally were shown the finished product--a whole series of large handsome carpets being rolled out for us to see4 ,one of these1 of a ,persian kind of design1 would be priced at #bjj rupees1 the manager said4 ,before leaving we were requested to write our names1 and any remarks on our visit1 in a visitor's book1 where the list had been headed by the ,prince and ,princess of ,wales1 who visited these works on their tour in ,india in #aije4 ,in the forenoon of ,january #adth we saw the eclipse of the sun from our terrace4 ,it rather took us by surprise--the light quickly becoming curiously pale like moonlight and the air unusually chilly4 ,we could see the sun turned into a crescent quite distinctly1 and pass through various phases like a moon1 till it gradually regained its normal shape and power shortly after noon4 ,illustration3 ,,an ,,indian ,,autolycus ,as we sat on the terrace a native pedlar approached with two portentous bundles4 ,he salaamed1 and proceeded to unload his wares in front of us4 ,his stock1 however1 consisted entirely of ,european goods--small wares such as tapes and buttons1 studs1 soaps and perfumes1 patent medicines1 and such articles as are supposed to meet the wants of travellers4 ,this ,indian ,autolycus addressed us as 8,father0 and 8,mother10 and like the 8,mad ,hatter0 commenced his speeches by saying 8me very poor man10 following this announcement by urgent appeals to us to buy1 after each purchase1 beginning all over again afresh4 ,probably he felt he had to make the most of his ,english1 as well as of his stock and his opportunities4 ,after another look at the ,golden ,temple1 which it was impossible to approach without a crowd and without clumsy canvas shoes over our own1 we made our way round to the ,atal tower4 ,here1 again1 before entering the anything but clean marble court shoes had to be put off4 ,it is an octagonal shrine1 or tomb1 having curious beaten metal plates1 gilded figure designs in repouss over the doors1 but the decorative art here was much inferior in design and detail to what we had seen further south4 ,we then drove to the public gardens in which stands the pavilion of ,ranji ,singh4 ,the gardens are full of beautiful palms and trees of many different kinds1 including fine cypresses and splendid clumps of bamboos4 ,the roads around ,amritzar are lined with trees1 and one sees enormous banyans spreading their great branches and masses of dark green foliage and casting deep shadows on the long avenues4 ,large plantations and fruit gardens1 too1 surround the city1 so that it has a very attractive look although on a dead level4 ,oranges of a large rough-skinned kind are grown here4 ,they are deep-coloured1 and more like lemons in shape4 ,there was also a very small circular orange about the size of a large cherry in the hotel garden1 where roses1 pansies1 and violets were blooming freely4 ,the native gardener was generally to the fore in offering us small posies or buttonholes whenever he had an opportunity and for a consideration4 ,we left ,amritzar for ,lahore on ,january the #aeth1 having another long wait for the ,punjab mail1 this time three hours behind time4 ,however1 about noon another train came up and we were advised by the stationmaster to go on by that in preference to waiting longer for the mail4 ,this train1 he said1 would take us to ,lahore more quickly than the quick train1 which sounds like a contradiction in terms4 ,it is only about an hour's journey4 ,the country between ,amritzar and ,lahore is1 again1 flat and has no striking features4 ,fields under irrigation green with young crops of corn1 often smothered in charlock1 alternated with dry fields or the standing canes of ripe crops1 and stubbles of some newly reaped4 ,the wells were plentiful4 ,some of the irrigation wells in this district are of a different pattern and mechanism to the simple draw-well seen generally4 ,a pair of oxen turn a horizontal heavy wooden wheel which has slots at regular intervals around the outside of its rim4 ,these slots catch the projecting spokes or straight cogs of another wheel1 also horizontally placed and smaller in size1 and this in turn by means of the cogs moves a large water wheel arranged in a vertical position1 the projecting cogs catching the spokes of this wheel1 which has a series of leather buckets or water pots attached to its broad rim1 on the same principle as we see in dredging machines4 ,as the wheel turns the buckets are dipped one after the other into the well1 and as they rise again full empty their contents into a trough immediately in front of the wheel1 which communicates with another trough connected with the irrigating trenches1 which are thus supplied with water4 ,the station at ,lahore was comparatively quiet and was a pleasing contrast to the turbulent crowd at ,amritzar4 ,the ,charing ,cross hotel received us1 but anything less suggestive of the associations its name recalled it would be difficult to imagine4 ,it was of the usual extended bungalow type1 with long arcades in front of ranges of ground floor rooms1 spacious and lofty and reminding rather of the vast rooms one sees on the stage with raftered ceilings and whitewashed walls4 ,the lower wall of our sitting-room1 however1 was hung with very interesting ,indian hand-painted cotton hangings1 which gave it rather a distinguished appearance4 ,there was a bedroom1 something between a prison and a chapel1 and dressing and the usual bath rooms1 with zinc tubs1 opening out beyond4 ,there were large sitting and dining rooms1 the latter an enormous one1 like the nave of a church1 lighted by a clerestory only1 and cold enough1 where people dined rather frigidly1 each group at a safe distance at separate little round tables4 ,we were glad of a log-fire in the evenings1 though the sun was powerful enough during the day4 8,the ,charing ,cross post office0 was close by1 which had one pigeon hole1 and where the stamps were sold outside under the verandah1 by a native squatting on the ground4 ,illustration3 ,,enjoying ,a ,,log ,,fire ,,at ,,lahore ,a fine broad avenue through the ,english quarter is called 8,the ,mall10 and here the principal government buildings are situated1 the ,law courts and the ,museum1 and the principal stores and bungalows4 ,this ,british residential and business quarter is quite distinct and lies quite clear outside the walls of the native city of ,lahore4 ,it is laid out in broad drives with tan rides at the side1 and bordered with trees4 ,bungalows and shops and stores in the shape of bungalows standing detached in gardens are arranged pleasantly from the modern residential point of view1 and forms quite a 8garden city10 only marred by the atrocious way in which the traders announce their names and business in staring white block-letters on black boards4 ,one piano warehouse1 ,i noticed1 had even a sky sign4 ,even the private residences are often disfigured in the same way by black boards with the name of the occupier in the ugliest block-letters4 ,the gardens and hedges1 often of roses trained on trellises of bamboo1 are kept very trim up and down the ,mall4 ,smart ,english ladies and officers ride or drive about in their dog-carts with native tigers behind4 ,we met a very imposing and original turn out--a fine pair of brown camels1 well matched1 were harnessed to a sort of barouche1 each ridden1 postilion-wise1 by native servants in scarlet1 one in the same colour behind the carriage1 which contained two ,english ladies4 ,this was probably the ,lieutenant-,governor's carriage4 ,bicycles were much in use both by ,europeans' 7men and women7 and natives--the turban and loose pyjama-like clothes of the latter looking strange on the machine4 ,the natives1 however1 everywhere in the towns where the ,europeans' influence comes in seem to take to machines4 ,the sewing machine is constantly seen in the bazaars1 always1 however1 worked by a man4 ,a certain firm's poster of the eternal woman enclosed in a hideous ,s 7like a modern ,eve and the industrial serpent7 looks particularly incongruous and out of place in ,india1 where there seems to be no women working at crafts4 ,the men do the washing too1 the ,dhobee in white with his bundle of linen being a frequent and characteristic figure4 ,no greater contrast could be imagined than that between the ,english quarter and the native city lying within its old walls and great gates1 with its narrow picturesque streets and--stinks6 ,open drains as at ,amritzar run along each side of the streets1 close in front of the bazaar1 where the people sit4 ,the fronts of the houses above the open shops are mostly of wood of a dark rich tone1 corbelled arcaded balconies and windows jutting out over the street at all sorts of angles1 rich with delicate and varied carvings1 as if the builders had vied with each other which should make the most interesting front4 ,there are charming little covered verandahs and balconies with slender columns and ogee arches1 and pierced screen-work painted here and there1 but mostly the deep dusky brown tone of the natural wood1 dark with age1 which forms an effective background to the vivid colours and glitter of costumes and draperies of the bazaars4 ,the newly dyed long strips of cotton or muslin in orange or pink1 green or lemon yellow which are hung out to dry1 wave like long banners over the busy life of the narrow streets1 where the turbaned and many coloured1 swarthy faced crowd1 jostle along1 or stand in chattering groups about the shops1 buying and selling4 ,the types1 too1 are very varied--the ,hindu1 the ,mohammedan1 the ,afghan1 the country folk2 the ,mohammedan woman in trousers1 the ,hindu woman in her graceful ,sari1 with her glittering silver anklets1 and bracelets1 toe-rings and nose-rings2 dark eyes and shining whites momentarily seen1 and gleaming teeth1 the mysterious-looking figures covered from head to foot in flowing white drapery1 pleated into a close fitting cap1 with little perforations for the eyes1 in front1 the effect of the whole being ghostly1 or even ghoulish4 ,the white mystery being only betrayed by a brown foot beneath and the gleam of a silver anklet which tells one it is only the disguise of a ,mohammedan woman4 ,illustration3 8,,the ,,woman ,,in ,,white0 ,,at ,,lahore 7,,suggestion ,,for ,a ,,disguise ,,party7 ,here again it was rather disappointing to see the native bazaars full of ,european goods1 and a trivial cheap kind at that4 ,european commerce has evidently got its foot in4 ,blue enamelled basins and cups1 tin ware1 tapes and buttons1 braces1 socks and ugly woollen scarfs in aniline colours are seen everywhere4 ,it is true that one occasionally may see a native handicraftsman at work1 such as the man who prints the ornamental borders on the edges of the muslin veils of the women1 and picks them out in silver leaf1 silver or orange being a favourite arrangement4 ,the metal-worker is also frequent1 though he often only makes zinc stoves4 ,the food shops are the most numerous1 set out with piles of curious yellow cakes and sweets of all sorts and sizes1 the cooking stove being often in front of the shop1 made of clay or mud with a tiny hole in which they produce hot little fires4 ,through the bazaars our carriage worked its way as through a labyrinth4 ,the mixed throng of buyers and sellers1 beggars and brown babies1 and cheeky little street ,arabs1 who are inclined to be rude to the stranger generally1 tongas1 buffaloes1 herds of goats1 stray zebu bulls1 and fat-tailed sheep4 ,these latter we first saw at ,delhi4 ,they are originally from ,tibet4 ,the enormous development of the tail1 or fleece of the tail1 has a very extraordinary effect1 as if the animal carried a bag of wool behind it1 both broad and long and nearly touching the ground4 ,occasionally we saw one of these animals 7rams7 dyed with orange colour1 and marked with curious patterns all over its fleece4 ,passing through the bazaars we arrived at a large open space1 and soon reached the 7,roshanai7 gate of the ,fort on the other side of it4 ,there the ,english sentry1 after saying an order was necessary1 called an orderly to take us round4 ,just inside the gate we got a view of the old wall of the palace decorated by tiles1 the colours being similar to those used at ,gwalior1 at the ,man ,mandir palace1 principally turquoise1 green1 and lemon yellow1 the tile-work being arranged in bands or friezes of elephants and birds in profile1 let into the red sandstone4 ,the very stolid ,british 8,tommy0 in khaki conducted us1 in slow marching order and in solemn silence1 up the long sloping road to the square of the ,fort where he pointed out1 without emotion1 a colonnaded ,hall of audience1 and then took us through a gateway into the rather spacious court of the old palace of ,akbar1 who also built the ,fort4 ,on one side of the court was an interesting armoury of ,sikh weapons1 beginning with suits of fine chain mail and ,persian-looking steel topis1 damasceened and bossed circular targes up to flint-locks1 and match-locks1 and blunderbusses4 ,there was quite a medival-looking heavy steel mace1 and many sabres1 and sword sticks1 some made with crutch handles terminating in horses' heads4 ,there were also a number of steel cuirasses4 ,i believe this armoury was arranged by ,mr ,kipling1 the father of ,mr ,rudyard ,kipling1 who was head of the art school of ,lahore for many years1 and to whom is due the extremely interesting museum4 ,there were relics of elaborate decoration on the walls and vaults of what remained of the palace1 and some of the glass 7convex-mirror-mosaic7 work united with gesso-relief ornament1 which we saw at ,udaipur1 ,amber1 ,delhi1 and other places3 but the ,british occupation had tried its best1 by introducing hideous chunks of barrack buildings1 to take the romance and beauty out of the place4 ,close to the ,fort outside its gate is the ,samadh1 or burning-place of ,ranjit ,singh4 ,a carved lotus flower1 surrounded by eleven smaller ones1 on a raised platform inside the pavilion-like building1 mark the place where his body was burned with eleven ladies of his ,zenana4 ,not far off rises the dome of the ,jama ,musjid and its noble minarets of red sandstone4 ,there is a fine park-like country beyond the walls on this side of the city with groups of old trees4 ,the minarets and domes of ,lahore have a striking effect seen from outside the gate4 ,we returned through the bazaars a different way1 passing the golden domed mosque and also the ,wazar ,khan mosque1 the latter a very fine one fronting a small square in the middle of the city1 and having two large minarets faced with enamelled tiles in blue and green and other colours1 cobalt predominating4 ,the spandrils of the main entrance1 and in fact the whole of the front1 being decorated with tiles in large arabesques and borderings1 a large ,arabic text in blue written boldly over the arch1 and panels down each flank of smaller scale work4 ,it was the first tiled mosque we had seen1 and quite characteristic of the art of a district which culminates in the renowned tombs at ,multan4 ,at the ,english club house on the ,mall1 the pipers of a ,highland regiment were playing on the lawn in front4 ,the club had well laid out and ample lawn tennis courts1 large blue durries being hung at each end of the courts to stop the balls1 and the players had native caddies to pick them up4 ,there were zoological gardens near by where we saw nylghaus and antelopes and birds of various sorts4 ,a ,victoria memorial on a large scale was in progress at a place where branching roads met4 ,the work of the ,british sculptor in ,india cannot be said to be much more exhilarating than the work of the ,british architect1 as a rule1 to judge from the specimens we saw1 chiefly of statues of the late ,queen ,victoria4 ,the courts of ,justice at ,lahore are more successful than most of the modern examples in ,india1 perhaps because designed in what might be called the local style--the ,mogul4 ,near by in a little garden enclosed by clipped hedges was a bronze statue of ,lord ,laurence offering the choice of government by pen or sword to the passer by4 ,it had some dramatic expression1 though the choice of a momentary attitude in a portrait statue is perhaps open to criticism4 ,we visited the museum1 where ,mr ,percy ,brown has succeeded ,mr ,kipling as director4 ,here is a most interesting collection of typical native textiles1 including the raised wax designs gilded1 silvered1 and lacquered on grounds of different coloured cloths1 an art which is still practised in the district with success1 traditional designs of flowers and birds being repeated in a very skilful and effective way1 and applied to the adornment of portires1 covers1 etc4 ,there were also good collections of native jewellery and enamels4 ,champlv enamel1 such as is done at ,lucknow1 was illustrated by specimens in different stages from the commencement to the finish1 side by side with cloisson 7,japanese7 illustrated in the same complete way1 as well as complete models showing native industries and handicrafts in operation2 interesting old ,hindu herbals and manuscripts on vellum with characteristic miniatures2 drawings of local palaces and gardens in plan1 elevation and bird's-eye perspective4 ,there was a very notable collection of ,greco-,buddhist sculptures1 which were extremely interesting and unusual4 ,very little wood-carving1 curiously enough1 except modern examples in screens and furniture1 the work of the ,art ,school1 exhibited in a separate room4 ,the city of ,lahore being so rich in carved wood-work it was less necessary to have it in the museum1 and1 of course1 much better to see it in situ4 ,the modern way of selling the spoils of old buildings to private collections or to museums is carried on in ,europe to an alarming extent1 so that one begins to fear1 in view of the rapid destruction of ancient houses now going on1 whether there will soon be left any genuine bits of antiquity in this commercial world4 ,it is better of course that relics of ancient art should find a haven in a public museum than that it should perish altogether1 but any destruction or removal for the express purpose of transportation to a museum should be deprecated4 ,on the whole the ,lahore museum was a well-chosen and arranged museum1 judiciously limited to ,indian art1 and it was interesting to see the groups of natives--men1 women1 and children--apparently scanning the different objects with the greatest interest and with much animated conversation among themselves4 ,one afternoon we drove to the ,waza ,khan ,mosque1 and ,i made the sketch reproduced here of the entrance to the mosque from the carriage4 ,the crowd was curious1 but not nearly so troublesome as elsewhere1 and our conductor1 or running footman1 kept them off pretty well4 ,the square had large pools of mud in it here and there after recent rains4 ,zebus were straying about1 or lying down4 ,fruit and good stalls occupied other parts of the ground1 and ox-carts deposited loads of wood4 ,men sat in groups in the porch of the mosque1 or on the steps1 from which boys flew their little diamond-shaped paper kites4 ,the mysterious-looking white figures of the ,mohammedan women wandered about like substantial ghosts4 ,we saw a pretty little gazelle at one of the stalls1 perfectly tame1 and a great pet of the native who owned it4 ,the ,cashmere travelling merchants1 who display their tempting wares at all the hotels1 spread out their stuffs in profusion--,bokhara embroideries1 ,persian covers1 kincobs1 turbans1 and portires of black1 red1 or green grounds1 effectively decorated with designs in the raised wax1 such as we saw in the museum--and used all their persuasive arts to effect sales4 ,we did not stay long enough in ,lahore to see much of the ,society there1 but before leaving we had a visit from the ,princess ,duleep ,singh and her sister1 who1 hearing from friends at ,amritzar that we were there1 came to see us at the hotel4 ,the princess was dressed as a ,parsee lady in beautiful classical draperies1 white with embroidered borders1 and she drove herself in a dog-cart1 but the sister was in ,european dress4 ,the princess recalled the circumstance of my having made a little sketch in her brother the prince's cottage on the ,norfolk coast1 which had been designed for him by ,mr ,detmar ,blow1 which we visited when staying in the neighbourhood4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,merchants ,,of ,,kashmir ,we left ,lahore the mid-day ,lucknow ,mail1 after a long wait1 the platform covered with picturesque groups of squatting natives4 ,we eventually shared a compartment1 as far as ,umballa1 with an ,english official1 his ,german wife and a little girl4 ,as far as ,umballa on this line1 coming north1 we had already journeyed4 ,the chief incident after leaving ,lahore was the catching fire of one of the boxes of one of the carriages of our train1 which caused the passengers hastily to leave it1 and crowd into other parts of the train1 when it was stopped and the burning carriage taken off at a small station just before ,amritzar4 ,illustration3 ,,lahore--,,the ,,mosque ,,of ,,waza ,,khan ,at ,umballa1 the dining station1 which we reached when it was dark1 some said we had to change1 others said not4 ,this was puzzling4 ,one official with more authority than the others said emphatically 8no10 at last4 ,so1 having just time1 we scurried across the bridge to the refreshment room with light hearts and sharp appetites1 snatched a hasty meal and hurried back to find ,moonsawmy1 who acted as courier and took charge of the tickets1 in some difficulty with the officials about the tickets4 ,one official 7the stationmaster7 came up1 and then said we ought to have changed into the train which was just at that moment steaming out of the station1 excusing his mistake by saying that he had not till then seen our tickets1 fussily ordering a humble ,hindu clerk to take the numbers4 ,after this we got into our compartment again and settled ourselves for a sleep1 as we were not due at ,lucknow until next morning4 ,during the night we were constantly disturbed by people opening the carriage door and peering in--no doubt in search of lower berths1 which we occupied4 ,at one place a ,eurasian got in with a quantity of baggage1 and got out again only a few stations off4 ,on leaving1 perceiving he had disturbed us he said he was 8sorry for the trouble40 ,at ,barielly another man 7,english7 got in with his traps and rugs and settled himself to sleep on the middle berth--which in some carriages economises space between the two side ones--though he was at first a little taken aback at seeing that one of us was a lady4 ,however1 he turned out to be a very agreeable companion afterwards1 and we got quite friendly as the train the next morning approached ,lucknow1 we having previously decided not to stop at ,cawnpore4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,lucknow ,arriving at ,lucknow in due course we parted with our fellow traveller1 who was met by the military chaplain1 and we did not see him again4 ,the chaplain kindly gave us some information1 and said that the hotel we were bound for was reputed to be 8the best in ,india40 ,this was good hearing1 and we found it quite borne out by our experience of ,wurtzler's1 where we presently found ourselves in comfortable rooms1 bungalow-like1 opening on to a verandah4 ,the hotel had formerly been a palace1 and was rather a handsome building in its way1 with a round-arched arcaded front1 long and low1 with a pleasant enclosure of trees and flower garden4 ,illustration3 ,,in ,,hospital1 ,,lucknow4 ,,the ,,operating ,,table 7,,patient ,,had ,a ,,bit ,,of ,,grit ,,in ,,her ,,eye ,,after ,a ,,train ,,journey7--,,sixteen ,,rupees ,,were ,,extracted6 ,there was 8a little rift within the lute10 however1 which rather marred the first moments of our arrival at ,lucknow1 my wife having unfortunately got a little bit of grit in her eye from the engine while in the train4 ,there was nothing for it but to drive to the hospital the first thing after breakfast4 ,luckily we caught the chief surgeon 7,col4 ,anderson7 just as he was attending to some native cases in waiting4 ,he at once took us to the 8operating room10 which sounded rather fearsome1 and was indeed a severe place with a polished marble floor1 a case of surgical instruments and an operating table being the only furniture visible4 ,the poor eye-patient had to extend herself on the table1 while the ,colonel very deftly found and quickly removed a tiny black speck which had caused all the trouble--working up right under the upper lid of the eye4 ,he put some cocaine into the eye first of all1 and afterwards applied a little lint and lotion4 ,the relief must have been worth anything--it might have been described as a lesser ,relief of ,lucknow6 ,illustration3 ,,jugglers ,,at ,,lucknow--,,the ,,mango ,,tree ,,trick ,the next example of human skill or sleight of hand we witnessed was in the juggling1 not the surgical1 profession4 ,it was a native conjurer who1 under the arcade of the hotel1 showed us the famous mango tree trick4 ,as additional attractions1 or a sort of side-show1 he had a large cobra in a round box1 which1 when the lid was off1 reared its head all alive and hissing1 and ready for a performance with a well-to-do mongoose1 which was held in readiness by a cord tied tightly round its neck1 which is apparently the only way in which to secure a mongoose4 ,the man commenced his performance by placing a monkey's skull on the pavement1 and sticking a little china doll up in front of it4 ,then he produced a very dry-looking mango seed about the size of a small potato1 and this he planted carefully in an ordinary earthen flower-pot1 covering the seed with soil1 and then watering it1 muttering some unknown words over it4 ,he then put it under a cloth raised tentwise by a stick1 to let it grow1 as he said1 while he went on with a number of small but very skilful conjuring tricks with cards1 coins1 marbles1 ring and handkerchief1 etc41 any of which he offered to teach4 ,presently he lifted the cloth and showed the mango tree sending up a shoot of fresh green1 and apparently growing vigorously4 ,then he covered it up again and performed some more tricks1 after which he again uncovered the mango1 which now showed a stem and bunch of leaves at the top like a miniature tree4 ,finally1 after another interval of a few minutes juggling and conjuring1 he lifted the cloth again1 and1 holding the pot in one hand1 he pulled up the little mango tree with the other1 showing it had stem1 roots1 and all4 ,the man had an assistant1 but he only played a very subordinate part1 handing the conjurer the various things he wanted from time to time1 holding the mongoose1 but not performing in any way4 ,these wonders were to be seen for the fee of three rupees4 ,the conjurer was very proud of his 8chits0 which he showed1 and among the signatures were those of 8,castlereagh0 and 8,wenlock02 and he asked for a written testimonial in his book4 ,at ,lucknow we had an introduction to the ,chief ,commissioner1 ,mr ,ross ,scott1 who received us very cordially at his charming house1 and offered to do anything for us4 ,among other kindnesses he sent my wife 7whose health had suffered from the climate everywhere in ,india7 a supply of excellent milk from his own cows during her stay1 which proved of immense benefit4 ,at his house we met ,mrs ,dowden and her daughter1 who kindly undertook to show us over the ruins of the ,residency which were quite close by4 ,the building stands1 or what remains of it after the bombardment it sustained during the terrible days of 8the ,mutiny10 amid pleasant lawns and fine trees1 and creepers cover the ruins4 ,in one of the rooms is a good model of the ,residency as it was in #aheg in the midst of the native city on a rising ground1 but thickly surrounded by the houses and mosques1 from which guns and mortars were trained on to it4 ,these were shown planted on flat roofs or in courtyards1 wherever there was vantage ground4 ,nothing but a few shapeless ruins remain hereabouts now of the old native city1 which has since been curtailed and cut in two by a broad road for the rapid movement of troops4 ,however savage and cruel the sepoys may have been1 the ,british reprisals were certainly severe4 ,they seemed to have practically 8wiped out0 old ,lucknow afterwards4 ,we were shown a building--the ,sikander ,bagh--a high-walled enclosure1 once a fair rose garden1 which was taken by ,colin ,campbell1 and where #bjjj rebels were bayoneted without mercy by the ,british troops4 ,a young ,english officer1 speaking professionally1 perhaps1 we met at a friend's house1 said that ,sikander ,bagh gave him more satisfaction than any other memorial of the mutiny4 ,he positively 8gloated over it10 and intended to go there again and 8gloat40 ,it is said even that ,british soldiers bayoneted even the sick and wounded ,hindu soldiers in the hospitals who begged to be shot instead6 ,the whole place is overshadowed by memories of that awful period4 ,nothing can impair the courage and endurance of the heroic defenders of the ,residency2 but it is now1 ,i believe1 generally admitted that the outbreak was not without its causes1 and that the government of the day did not act judiciously1 to say the least4 ,it is commonly called 8,the ,mutiny10 but it was really an insurrection1 which must from various causes have been smouldering for some time before it burst into flame4 ,the 8greased cartridges0 were only the last straw4 ,there seems to have been much discontent4 ,many sepoys1 too1 had been disbanded4 ,the ,british annexation1 the deposition and deportation of the reigning ,king of ,oudh and the confiscation of his revenues1 must all be considered as provocative causes2 and it is a question whether at any time ,british rule has made itself loved in ,india1 or the ,british residents have ever really understood the ,indian people4 ,native feeling must have been generally ignored4 ,it was a formidable revolt1 accompanied1 no doubt1 by explosions of race hatred and by terrible cruelties1 but there was savagery on both sides--a desperate attempt to regain possession of their own country and its government on the part of the princes and people4 ,the question remains1 with all the official solicitude of the ,british government for the welfare of the natives1 all the railways1 engineering1 and irrigation works1 are they really better off than they were under native rule8 ,are they not1 though under ,british administration1 more heavily taxed than they were under the native kings8 ,mr ,william ,digby1 ,c4,i4,e41 who had long personal and official experience in ,india1 brings a formidable array of facts and statistics 7from official sources1 too71 in his 8,prosperous ,british ,india10 in support of the view that they are1 and1 moreover1 that the ryot--the tiller of the soil--is gradually becoming poorer under our rule4 ,to a passing observer1 the ,hindus--nay1 the people of ,india1 either ,hindus or ,mohammedans--can never be ,europeanised4 ,there is a great gulf between the ,east and the ,west4 ,after all these years of ,british occupation and administration1 the two races live entirely apart and separate4 ,in religion1 manners1 and customs1 and sentiment1 they are fundamentally different1 opposed1 one might say4 ,the ,british remain a transitory garrison of military and civil administrative aliens1 in the midst of vast populations1 rooted in the traditions1 religious beliefs and observances of untold centuries1 during which they have carried on the same mode of life1 and who seem neither to seek or to desire change4 ,the mere struggle to live must occupy the energies of the vast majority1 but among the more educated and leisured classes of natives there is a growing feeling of what we should call nationalism in ,europe1 though it may be more strictly racial than national4 ,it is difficult1 however1 to see how anything like a universal movement over the whole peninsula could arise1 considering the differences of caste1 race and religion1 or the wide differences which separate ,hindus and ,mohammedans4 ,some1 however1 rather think that political change may be forced by bankruptcy1 considering the poverty of the people and the limits of taxation being reached4 ,we were shown1 at the ,residency1 the room where ,sir ,henry ,laurence was struck with the shell1 the holes its explosion made in the wall1 his grave also1 and many other memorials which have a profound interest for the ,english visitors4 ,old rust-eaten1 muzzle-loading muskets1 sabres1 and shot and shell1 with which the ,residency was peppered1 were collected in a group in one of the rooms1 and the place1 as far as possible1 has been made an historical museum of the period of the siege4 ,our friends introduced us at the ,chatter ,manzel1 formerly a palace of the kings of ,oudh1 but now used as an ,english club4 ,the rooms were of spacious and good proportions--long in comparison with their width4 ,proportion1 in fact1 is the principal notable quality of the local architecture at ,lucknow1 the details being comparatively common-place after the beautiful inventive detail and decoration of the ,mogul architects at ,delhi and ,agra1 the ornamentation being mostly mere repetitions4 ,after the marble inlay of the ,taj ,mahal and the ,diwan-ud-,daulat1 and ,sikandra1 or the rich arabesques of the ,zenana rooms at ,amber1 the white and yellow wash and the rather coarse plaster work of the palaces and pavilions of ,lucknow look1 comparatively speaking1 cheap4 ,the stuccoed domes of the mosques miss the splendour of the gold and ivory-like marble seen elsewhere4 ,even the ,jama ,musjid1 fine in scale as it is1 lacks the charm of colour4 ,there was a smaller mosque near the old stone bridge1 however1 which stood out against the deep-blue sky in dazzling whiteness1 but this only showed how beautiful plain whitewash appears illuminated by the ,indian sun--pearly with delicate reflections and warm shadows4 ,the ,iambara had a beautifully-proportioned court1 with steps up to the pavilion1 the symmetry of the spacing being rather pleasantly broken by the mosque on one side being placed at a different angle in order to point to the direction of ,mecca1 as all ,mohammedan mosques must do4 ,inside the pavilion1 under canopies of heavy embroidery in gold and silver1 supported by chased silver poles1 were the tombs of one of the kings and his zenana4 ,on the walls were mirrors which reminded us of our ,english empire-period framed mantle-glasses4 ,some of these had curious tempera paintings inserted in their frames of native birds and trees1 and there were other ,indian paintings1 one showing ,general or ,captain ,martin--the ,french adventurer who founded the ,martinire at ,lucknow in the early nineteenth century--in a blue coat and gold lace and white nankeen trousers1 like a naval officer of that period1 conferring with the ,king of ,oudh and his court4 ,an image of a winged horse 7a ,buddhist symbol7 strikingly resembled the ,assyrian type of winged man-headed creatures1 the treatment being remarkably similar4 ,the crowned head1 with long1 black1 curled locks1 and formal1 rather small1 wings1 with each feather expressed4 ,there was an umbrella attached1 which moved to and fro over the head of the figure by clock-work4 ,we were interested to see in the ,daulat ,khan--a sort of gallery up a steep flight of steps--a series of full-length portraits of the kings of ,oudh in their robes1 painted by ,english artists4 ,most of these were signed by my friend ,t4 ,erat ,harrison1 #ahhb-d1 and ,i recalled the fact of having seen him at work on one of them about that time4 ,an ,english lady1 ,mrs ,dowden 7wife of ,colonel ,dowden71 was kind enough to conduct us through ,lucknow and its wonders1 and she proved an excellent cicerone1 and waved off all unnecessary attentions from caretakers and their hangers-on with the decisive air of a resident4 ,we passed a hideous clock tower--one of many in ,india--put up by some modern architect 7as a ,jubilee memorial1 ,i think74 ,it is astonishing what monstrosities in clock towers have been perpetrated by modern architects in ,india4 ,finally1 we got to the gate of the old city of ,lucknow1 by which we entered the principal street of the bazaar4 ,there were many interesting native shops4 ,at one ,i noticed some blocks of patterns for printing by hand on cotton4 ,they were cut in some hard wood4 ,the handicraft1 too1 was still carried on here4 ,there were many pretty bead necklaces1 tassels1 and quaint toys4 ,we visited1 up a steep narrow staircase1 a muslin and jewel merchant's store4 ,he showed some charming ,indian muslins spangled with silver spots and patterns4 ,he also had one or two pieces of old ,lucknow enamel not ordinarily seen in the bazaars now4 ,illustration3 ,,better ,,luck ,,at ,,lucknow--,,through ,,the ,,chowk ,,on ,,an ,,elephant ,we visited another friend who had been spending the winter at ,lucknow--,mrs ,jopling-,rowe1 the well-known artist1 whose son is a ,magistrate here1 dining with them at their charming bungalow one evening4 ,mr ,commissioner ,jopling very courteously placed elephants at our disposal on which to ride through the chowk4 ,an irrigation well near the hotel interested me1 and ,i made a sketch of it in a chequered shade4 ,the yoke of oxen and two natives at work hauling up the water for the garden in a leather bucket4 ,while thus engaged another friend travelling in the ,east came up1 so that as regards friends we were quite in luck's way at ,lucknow4 ,after this it was time to go and meet the elephants our friends had ordered at the chowk4 ,mrs ,jopling-,rowe took us in her carriage through ,wentworth ,park1 and past the palaces to the gate of the city1 where we found two fine elephants in waiting4 ,my wife and ,i mounted one of them by the usual ladder1 the animal kneeling4 ,a young officer who was of the party1 however1 showed us another way4 ,he got a leg up by means of the trunk1 and so over the elephant's head on to his back4 ,we then processed through the bazaar 7the chowk71 preceded by a native policeman1 in khaki with a scarlet turban1 to clear the way1 and two more behind4 ,the elephants seemed to quite fill up the narrow street1 so that there was danger of a block when we met an ox-cart4 ,a very comprehensive view is to be had from an elephant's back1 as one can see not only a long way ahead1 but well into the shops where the people are at work1 and also command the balconies and roofs1 where there were often interesting groups4 ,illustration3 ,,irrigation ,,well1 ,,lucknow ,we threaded our way through the chowk1 passing at its end under one of the old arched gateways and along a narrower street1 which led us out into the broad military road1 which the ,british1 after the revolt1 ruthlessly cut right through the old city1 uglifying it1 of course4 ,there is a wonderful variety and richness1 again1 here1 in the old house fronts with arcaded balconies and doorways of carved wood4 ,the patterns1 chiefly running borders1 treated very fancifully and delicately4 ,the native houses were not so high as in ,lahore1 but the carving might compare with the same sort of work there in detail4 ,we lunched at the charming abode of another ,english official and his wife 7,mr and ,mrs ,saunders71 who were very pleasant and hospitable4 ,the lady had considerable taste in furniture and decoration1 and her rooms showed the influence of white and green1 and looked cool and agreeable in a light key4 ,afterwards we drove to see the celebrated ,martinire1 the young officer accompanying us4 ,the ,martinire is the fantastic palace built by the ,french ,general or ,captain ,martin1 before mentioned1 and is a curious conglomerate sort of scenic design of late ,italo-,french ,renaissance character1 reminding one rather of ,isola ,bella1 semi-classical figures being perched on every pinnacle and balustrade1 and there were two grotesque lions1 doing duty as supporters or consoles1 with mouths so open that the sky could be seen through them4 ,the building towered high in several stories in the centre1 and spread out wide into two curved long and low wings of one story1 opening on to broad terraces and steps leading to a small lake1 from the middle of which rose a fluted column4 ,the general's heart is said to be buried beneath this4 ,the ,martinire was intended by him to be a college for boys4 ,he founded another at ,calcutta1 and another in his native town--,lyons--in ,france4 ,martin seems to have had a curious1 eventful history1 beginning as a ,french prisoner1 under the ,british1 afterwards entering the ,british army and becoming a captain1 when he took service under the ,nawab of ,oudh and became general of his army1 finally accumulating by some means a large fortune1 which he spent on this building and in founding the schools which bear his name4 ,we passed another house ruined at the time of 8the ,mutiny10 whence the women and children were removed to from the ,residency1 and where ,lieutenant ,paul is buried4 ,mr ,ross ,scott entertained us with a distinguished company to dinner at his hospitable house before we left ,lucknow4 ,one ,english colonel of the party with whom ,i had a conversation had recently returned from ,burmah1 and had brought back some fine silk embroidered robes1 some china bowls1 and caps4 ,the latter were of soft felt1 and could be worn either with the edge turned down or up1 forming a brim4 ,the colonel had lived some time in ,burmah and had seen service there1 having been through the ,british campaign against the 8,dacoits40 ,he said that the ,dacoits were largely composed of men of the disbanded native army 7for which ,i suppose our ,government were responsible71 and they roamed about the country preying on the people1 plundering and sometimes murdering them4 ,the ,burmese people1 he said1 only wanted to be left alone in peace 7like most people74 ,he had made many friends among them1 as he knew the language and had lived amongst them at that time4 ,on revisiting the country and finding things under ,british control and administration1 he found most of his ,burmese native friends in prison4 ,they were there1 he said1 merely for breaking some official regulation which probably they did not in the least understand4 ,the natives complained to him that the ,english officials lived aloof from them1 and were not friendly and sympathetic as he 7the ,colonel7 had been1 and they never got any forwarder4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,,benares ,our next destination was ,benares4 ,i had for long had the feeling1 from the descriptions one had read and the photographs one had seen of this wonderful place1 that it would sum up and centralise1 as it were1 to the eye the whole life of the ,indian people1 while it would also be a symbol of their faith to the mind4 ,it was1 therefore1 with unusual anticipations that we turned our faces thither1 and on the #bast of ,january took the early morning train from ,lucknow to the great focus of ,hindu worship on the sacred ,ganges4 ,the kind commissioner's native servant1 in scarlet1 awaited us at the station with a parting gift and a note of introduction to the ,maharajah of ,benares4 ,the train passed through a richer and more fruitful country than usual1 but level1 plain all the way1 reaching ,benares ,cantonment about two o'clock4 ,we drove to ,clark's hotel1 which has a pretty portico full of palms1 and a splendid orange creeper1 then in full flower1 hung over the usual bungalow annexe4 ,the house was quiet1 and had a semi-private aspect1 more like a country bungalow4 ,finding the ,maharajah's palace was some five or six miles off and on the other side of the river1 we were advised to leave our letter at the ,guest ,house with our cards4 ,the ,guest ,house was quite near by4 ,continuing our drive through the bazaar we thought the main street wider than most of the native cities1 but the bazaars did not look so busy1 and many shops were vacant4 ,balconies1 the roofs of which were supported on arcades of slender columns with ,hindu caps1 were of a different type to those hitherto seen4 ,in the ,european quarter there were poorly-designed1 would-be ,gothic ,british buildings1 and mission churches of the usual bald type4 ,there was a ,queen's ,park with the commonplace iron railing and low stone parapet enclosing it1 these innovations1 as usual1 quite spoiling the surroundings of a native city4 ,the next morning we had a visit from the ,maharajah's private secretary1 who invited us to drive in the afternoon to visit the ,buddhist topes and sculptures at ,sarnath about five miles from ,benares4 ,an ,american lady we had previously met was to be of the party1 and she was staying at the ,guest ,house1 and at the appointed hour the ,maharajah's carriage1 with a coachman in a green and gold turban and scarlet tunic1 and two active young ,hindus1 similarly dressed1 acted as running footmen to clear the way1 when not at their posts standing at the back of the carriage4 ,we called at the ,guest ,house for our ,american friend4 ,it was a more palatial building than the one at ,gwalior1 standing in a small park with outer gates and a drive4 ,the house was in the classic style--a white building with flat roof and columned portico4 ,in the large hall on the ground floor there was a small coloured statuette of the ,maharajah on horseback1 photographs and portraits upon the walls1 including ,english miniatures of an ,english officer and his ladies of the early nineteenth century1 and some engravings of portraits of ,queen ,caroline4 ,a stuffed lioness was lying on a side-board4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,maharajah ,,places ,,his ,,carriage ,,at ,,our ,,disposal ,the road to ,sarnath lay through avenues of fine trees a great part of the way1 chiefly mangoes1 banyans1 acacias1 and tamarinds4 ,the young trees planted to fill the gaps were protected by circular fences1 sometimes topped by prickly pears4 ,sometimes the circular fence was made of bricks1 an aperture being left between every alternate brick4 ,at ,sarnath we saw the results of recent excavations4 ,there was a wonderful pillar made out of a single piece of marble1 but fractured in digging it out4 ,one part stood upright in the earth1 the other lay horizontally4 ,the top or cap was placed under an awning near by4 ,it was formed of four lions facing outwards1 their heads1 chests1 and fore limbs being alone visible1 their claws resting on the rim of a circular fillet1 on which was sculptured in low relief a horse1 an elephant1 a lion1 and a bull1 each animal being placed between a wheel of a solar character1 each wheel having twenty-four spokes4 ,below this fillet was a curved drooping fringe of leaves such as are characteristic in ,persian columns as well as ,hindu4 ,the marble of which the column and the sculptures were made was of a peculiar greyish almost of a flesh colour1 with small spots4 ,both the column and the sculptures were very highly polished1 and the treatment of the lions was remarkably ,greek in character with perhaps a touch of ,persian or even ,assyrian formalism in the treatment of the heads and manes of the lions4 ,the animals in relief1 between the wheels1 too1 were remarkably free1 spirited1 and well modelled4 ,there were the remains of an ancient ,buddhist temple near4 ,in what was probably the inner shrine was a sculptured standing figure of ,buddha1 about two-thirds life size1 in alto relievo4 ,the figure was represented in a long robe1 the limbs being boldly expressed through the drapery1 which hung broadly and smoothly over them1 without folds1 except at the sides1 which were treated in the rather formal spiral manner of early ,greek work4 ,the ,american lady remarked on seeing this figure that 8,the gentleman seems to have put his legs through his clothes40 ,the figure was framed in a border of astralagus1 cut in low relief1 having a running escalloped border outside it and stepped mouldings4 ,the doorway to this shrine1 too1 had a richly carved bordering4 ,there were many most interesting fragments collected together in and around a building near4 ,in the court was a large circular carved stone4 ,this was called ,buddha's umbrella1 and its original position was over the head of a large figure of the saint1 sculptured in the round1 close by4 ,the design of the umbrella1 a lotus flower1 the flower of life1 the petals radiating from the centre1 and enclosing this were a series of concentric rings of pattern2 the first consisted of rosettes1 or smaller lotus flowers1 alternating with grotesque lions1 winged horses1 elephants1 camels1 and bulls2 the next showed the anthemion1 doubled or reversed1 alternating with the fylfot or gammadion 1 and another form frequent in early ,greek pattern 7as well as ,chinese7 the geometric four-petalled flower4 ,there were numerous small figures of ,buddha here1 treated in a similar way to the one first mentioned1 as well as other sculptures of a ,hindu type1 resembling those at ,ellora4 ,there we saw the great ,tope 7called the ,dhamek74 ,this stood on rather higher ground1 and was apparently built of rubble1 which was exposed at the top1 but the sides were covered with fine bands of carved ornament in stone1 carried to a considerable height1 and consisting of a frieze of bold scroll work of a ,greek character1 alternating with bands of a kind of ,chinese-like diagonal diaper1 divided by plain belts of stone4 ,at intervals these bands were intersected by flat dome-shaped forms slightly projecting beyond the bands1 and in these were recesses intended1 no doubt1 originally to contain seated figures of ,buddha4 ,these flat dome-shaped forms1 connected by bands1 suggested a palisade1 which may have been the original way of enclosing and protecting these topes or tombs2 and they may also have been the early form or prototype of the curious clustered dome-shaped pinnacles which are multiplied to form the spires of ,jain temples so often seen in ,india4 ,sarnath is the place where ,buddha began to preach1 and the great tope is supposed to mark the spot where his first sermon was delivered4 ,the excavations of ,general ,cunningham here disclose the fragments of a great city which probably stood here about #bjjj years ago4 ,returning to ,benares from this intensely interesting spot1 we dined at the ,guest ,house with our ,american friend4 ,the rooms were luxuriously upholstered and furnished from ,europe1 and were occupied by the ,prince and ,princess of ,wales when they were here in #aije4 ,the dinner was excellently cooked and served by native attendants1 with the choicest wines and liquors4 ,there were some lovely old ,indian miniatures on vellum framed and hanging on the wall of one of the salons1 representing various scenes in the life of a ,maharajah--a cock-fight1 polo1 reception of a foreign embassy 7in ,dutch seventeenth century costume71 and other subjects1 each full of charming details of architecture1 dress and decoration4 ,besides these there were the usual official photographic groups1 showing ,english officers1 princes1 and governor-generals grouped around the ,maharajah--in one the ,czar of ,russia appeared4 ,indian carpets were on the floor1 and ,english sporting prints on the walls of the dining-room4 ,the next day1 ,january #bcrd1 ,his ,highness's secretary had arranged to send a carriage for us quite early 7about #g ,a4,m471 to take us to see the ghats4 ,when we reached the river side1 which is a considerable drive from the ,guest ,house1 we found a beautiful state barge awaiting us4 ,it was shaped and painted like a peacock1 and had a little pavilion in the centre4 ,in this lovely vessel we embarked1 and glided slowly down the river with the stream1 guided by the scarlet-jacketed oarsmen1 with their long bamboo handled oars1 and a broad steering paddle at the stern4 ,illustration3 ,,benares3 ,,viewing ,,the ,,ghats ,,from ,,the ,,maharajah',s ,,peacock ,,boat ,the spectacle of ,benares from a boat on the ,ganges is perhaps the most extraordinary sight in all ,india4 ,at every ghat or opening to the river1 down the great flights of steps1 a throng of natives in all the colours of the rainbow press to the water's edge4 ,some plunge in1 some approach timidly1 and very gradually submerge themselves4 ,their brown skins shining in the water4 ,the men always have some sort of waist cloth on1 but the women go in in their garments1 or1 at least1 clad to their waists4 ,all ages are there--it recalled the medival allegories of the ,fountain of ,youth4 ,one does not often see infants dipped1 though they are1 occasionally1 by their parents1 and object to the water in the same natural and vigorous manner as ,european babies are apt to do at their baptism4 ,old tottering women and men may be seen1 as well as the young1 strong and vigorous1 all earnestly washing1 or performing strange genuflexions with the most determined devotion4 ,characteristic features of this wonderful scene are the large matting umbrellas of the priests1 who sit on small platforms of bamboo raised on the steps4 ,these expect fees to be paid them by those who come to bathe at the ghats4 ,rows of snake charmers greet the traveller on landing at the ghats1 who turn hissing cobras out of circular boxes and hold them aloft or twine them round their necks1 or perhaps1 as an extra attraction1 empty out a swarm of scorpions to catch the eye of the stranger1 all eager to perform the marvels of their art on the slightest encouragement--and a few rupees4 ,sacred zebu bulls wander about and often lie on the steps4 ,it seems strange that people should lave and drink of the water1 which is fouled one would suppose by all sorts of impurities at the margin4 ,washing of clothes goes on everywhere1 decayed flowers float along1 even bodies of drowned dogs are seen occasionally4 ,it must have been at ,benares that sop's fable of the two pots was born1 for there the earthen and brazen vessels might quite possibly float down the stream together4 ,pots are scoured on the steps1 and at the ,burning ,ghat they pour the ashes of the dead into the river4 ,illustration3 ,,we ,,see ,,snakes ,,at ,,benares ,at the ,burning ,ghat they pile up logs of wood to form the pyre1 and the white turbaned dark figures1 with nothing on but waist cloths1 are kept busy at their ghastly work4 ,some of the bodies are brought down with flowers and chanting3 others lie there with no following or ceremony3 some are swathed in red or white cloth like mummies1 others as they were born are lifted on to the piles of logs1 which being set alight1 soon reduce all to the same condition4 ,some of the bodies are carefully dipped in the ,ganges before being burned1 and are often left at the water's edge while the pyre is being prepared4 ,wood was placed over as well as under the bodies1 and a torch was put to the mouth4 ,other bodies1 again1 are taken out in boats unburned and apparently dressed and seated in chairs1 and suddenly in mid-stream are toppled over into the water4 ,we saw an old man disposed of in this way4 ,our boatman pointed him out as a specially holy person1 and we did not realise he was a corpse4 ,the bodies of infants1 swathed in white1 are also treated in this way4 ,the ,maharajah's secretary explained that the ,ganges water had been analysed by ,european experts and pronounced to be the best water in the world1 having a peculiar property of destroying the germs of disease4 ,it was difficult1 however1 to see how even 8the best water0 could avoid getting fouled with such operations constantly going on2 but of course there is a strong stream all the time1 so that everything must eventually be carried down to the sea4 ,a continuous many-coloured stream of pilgrims1 bearing huge bundles of bedding1 were constantly moving along behind this busy life of the bathing ghats1 ascending or descending the great flights of steps leading up through the various gates to the city4 ,it seemed to be part of that universal exodus we had witnessed at every railway station in ,india4 ,it is said that representatives from every village in the peninsula may be found at ,benares4 ,then1 as a no less striking background to these extraordinary human groups1 rise the domes of temples and minarets of palaces1 their golden vanes and finials glittering against the deep blue sky4 ,windows1 balconies and terraces placed high up1 with vast walls below them4 ,these great walls1 which give so much distinction and breadth to the river front of ,benares1 have a practical reason1 inasmuch as it is a necessity thus to raise the temple and palace floors1 owing to the sudden rising of the ,ganges in the rainy season1 when these walls are sometimes hidden in the waters4 ,the musical accompaniments of the spectacle consist in the weird and wandering notes which issue from the temples1 produced by a sort of hautboy1 and the subdued thud of the tom-toms4 ,i saw a dusky long-haired fakir stand on the steps at the ,mahikarunika ghat and sound a long straight brass trumpet4 ,after voyaging in the peacock boat the whole length of the ghats1 we returned to our carriage-in-waiting at a convenient point from which to approach the ,golden ,temple4 ,from the main street of the ,bazaar we were conducted by the secretary down a very narrow passage crowded with worshippers1 and then up a dark staircase to a terrace from which we could see the cluster of gilded copper domes4 ,afterwards in the sacred precincts we saw the 8well of knowledge10 but did not drink of it1 having too much foreknowledge of the condition of its water4 ,our next excursion was to pay a visit to the ,maharajah at his palace4 ,we were conducted by his secretary in the carriage as before1 driving to the river side opposite the palace some six miles off4 ,on the road we stopped to see the famous ,monkey ,temple--a ,hindu ,temple in an arcaded court of the usual type4 ,this court was full of monkeys--a sandy-brown coloured sort with pink faces1 probably ,macaques--not so handsome as the wild silver grey ones we had seen at ,ahmedabad4 ,they accepted offerings1 but not so greedily1 as they were evidently well fed1 and dried peas lay about untouched4 ,they gambolled about the temple at their sweet will4 ,these monkeys are sacred to ,vishnu1 and represent ,hunuman the monkey god4 ,there was a fine tank with steps to the water's edge1 close by the temple4 ,just before this we passed the ,hindu ,college which ,mrs ,annie ,besant has established for the higher education of native children of both sexes--but not a mixed school4 ,this work has been liberally endowed by the ,maharajah of ,benares1 who also granted the site4 ,mrs ,besant is the principal1 but owing to the illness of ,colonel ,alcott1 she was not then there1 being at ,madras nursing the ,colonel in what proved to be his last illness4 ,reaching the river side1 a boat was in waiting to take us across to the palace1 rowed by two ,hindu boys--at least they started rowing1 but soon we got into shallows1 where they took to poling1 and finally had to get out and push the boat along1 until getting into deeper water again they rowed us to the palace steps4 ,it was quite a high steep flight1 no doubt existing for the same river reason as the high walls of ,benares--to be out of the reach of the floods4 ,there were numbers of natives ascending and descending or grouped on the steps4 ,we climbed up1 and entered the palace up more stairs1 and were shown into a large reception salon1 where much of the furniture was 8under canvas10 but there was one handsome couch displayed1 inlaid with ivory4 ,presently ,h4,h4 the ,maharajah entered1 accompanied by his two chief officers1 who spoke ,english well1 his painter in ordinary1 and several attendants4 ,chairs were placed in the centre of the room1 around a small marble table4 ,the ,maharajah seated himself1 and we with the private secretary grouped ourselves about him4 ,the ,maharajah was dressed in a small-patterned long tunic of pink brocaded with gold1 a small round cap on his head1 close fitting white trousers and patent leather shoes4 ,he seemed quite merry and pleased to see us4 ,i showed him my book of sketches1 which interested him1 as he said he had never seen drawings of the kind before4 ,his painter in ordinary1 to whom ,i was introduced1 was also interested1 and asked some questions through the secretary1 not himself speaking ,english4 ,he had painted the full length portraits of the ,maharajahs which hung aloft in this salon4 ,the ,prince presently rose and invited us to the terrace1 to which we passed after him1 through an arcade1 an attendant holding a large silk umbrella over him4 ,there was a very fine view from this terrace up and down the river4 ,the city of ,benares1 with its domes and minarets1 seen far down on the left1 and the open plain country opposite4 ,the secretary said that when the ,ganges rose the city looked as if it was floating on the surface of the water4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,maharajah',s ,,reception1 ,,decorating ,,the ,,visitors ,we then all returned to the salon 7or ,durbar ,hall1 as ,i ought to have called it7 and took our leave1 ,h4,h4 presenting us with a book of photographs of the ghats1 with his own portrait1 both of which he inscribed4 ,finally he placed necklaces of some kind of gold or gilt tissue around the necks of the ladies1 and one of silver-tissue around mine1 and concluded by putting scent on our handkerchiefs from a handsome silver bottle4 ,before we left the palace the ,maharajah's jewels were shown to us--wonderful strings of rubies and emeralds almost as big as hen's eggs4 ,these were in rather worn and faded cases of velvet1 and offered up on rusty old tea trays--a strange mixture of splendour and squalor4 ,the secretary then took us by carriage to see a ,hindu ,temple1 covered with sculpture1 standing clear on a raised platform ascended by a flight of steps1 and surrounded by the usual open court4 ,we saw several fine elephants waiting at a gateway1 and afterwards visited the ,maharajah's pleasant flower garden1 prettily laid out with long centre tanks1 and rose trellises1 terraces1 and pavilions4 ,from here we soon reached the river side1 and embarking in the boat again1 returned in the same manner we had come1 returning to our quarters in the dusk of the evening1 the secretary leaving us at his dwelling at ,benares4 ,the ,maharajah having placed a boat and a carriage at our disposal1 we arranged to visit the ghats again the next day1 especially as ,i was anxious to obtain a sketch or two of the wonderful scenes by the river4 ,so driving to the steps again we embarked1 taking ,moonsawmy with us to interpret4 ,i got the boatmen to stop the boat off the ,manikaranika ,ghat1,b which is perhaps the most striking of all1 with its red sandstone pinnacles1 immense flights of steps and terraces4 ,here ,i worked till noon1 when one had rather the sensation of everything curling up with the heat of the sun1 including one's own frame6 ,the next morning we again returned to the river1 using the ,maharajah's carriage and boat1 which latter was not1 however1 the beautiful peacock barge of our first morning1 but a very substantial sort of house-boat1 with plenty of space on the upper deck or flat roof of the house1 and solid chairs to sit on4 ,this time ,i chose the ,nepal ,temple for my subject4 ,this temple1 with its pagoda-like roof and shining golden finial1 had a ,chinese aspect4 ,the temple itself was of a deep rich ,indian red1 and had a terrace in front on the top of a high wall close to the river1 on one side being the entrance to the palace with two minarets4 ,a mass of dark green foliage partly shaded the ,temple on the left hand and added to the charm and richness of the subject--the throng of figures on the steps1 and the boats rocking on the clear green water1 completing the picture at the river's edge1 alive with colour and movement4 ,the procession of pilgrims in an endless line1 and the whole human drama going on just as before1 and as it has been every day for ages4 ,b ,see frontispiece4 ,the moon was now again bright at nights and it was much warmer4 ,we heard the jackals again as at ,udaipur4 ,we met two ,london friends at the hotel1 and made some pleasant acquaintances--a young ,american who had been travelling in ,china and ,japan and ,java and was going on to ,europe2 also three young ,oxford men1 connected with the ,oxford ,mission1 ,i understood--one of them on his way to take up some official post in ,japan4 ,the roses at ,clark's ,hotel were very profuse1 a beautiful silver bowl of ,benares work full of them each day decorated our table4 ,it was extremely quiet except for the almost continual cry of a bird ,i could not name1 but which at first we thought was a pea-fowl4 ,the note1 however1 was not hoarse or grating but full and bell-like1 though very monotonous1 consisting of two notes4 ,we heard this bird everywhere south after ,benares4 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,calcutta--,,darjeeling ,with parting compliments to the ,maharajah1 whom ,i ventured to present1 and his officers1 with photographs of some of my pictures1 we left ,benares for ,calcutta on ,january #bfth1 departing by a mid-day train1 belated as usual4 ,this took us to ,mogul ,serai1 where we changed into the ,calcutta mail4 ,at the station it was difficult to find a place for the soles of our feet1 as the whole of the platform was occupied by native infantry1 in khaki1 who were camping down with their arms piled and their baggage around them4 ,the ,calcutta mail was preceded by the limited mail1 consisting chiefly of post-office vans1 but having room for a few passengers4 ,one of our friends of the ,oxford party who were going on by it very kindly tried to get us places also1 but there was no room left4 ,however1 the other mail followed very quickly1 in which we found plenty of room1 our only fellow-traveller being an ,american4 ,we had1 before reaching ,mogul ,serai1 obtained a farewell glimpse of ,benares as we crossed the iron bridge over the ,ganges1 below the city1 and saw the slender minarets of the ,aurangzer ,mosque1 and the smoke of the ,burning ,ghat4 ,the country for some distance was richer and more fruitful than usual1 and well clad with trees1 among which were many fine cocoa palms1 their smooth1 slender stems having a steely blue effect against the deep green foliage of mangoes and acacias4 ,the scenery grew tamer afterwards1 and generally flat1 with occasional mud-walled and thatch-roofed villages huddled together4 ,after passing as bad a night as might be expected in the train1 we got into ,calcutta about six in the morning at the ,howrah station4 ,after some difficulty in getting a tickorgary--the ,indian equivalent for a 8four-wheeler0--we had rather a long drive to the ,grand ,hotel1 crossing the river by a bridge just outside the station1 where there was a bathing ghat1 gaily populous at that hour1 the bathing operations being followed by breakfast on the steps or in the pavilions on the terrace behind4 ,the streets of ,calcutta looked rather dingy and neglected4 ,the hotel was vast but gloomy1 and the prices high2 but a bath and a rest after the long railway journey were very welcome1 and we were glad to get our letters4 ,we found the temperature much warmer1 however1 and more like ,bombay4 ,the ,minto ,fte--a sort of bazaar and military tournament combined--absorbed a great deal of attention among the residents4 ,this occupied a large enclosure on the ,esplanade1 under canvas4 ,the familiar posters used for the ,military ,tournament in ,london met the eye on all sides1 with gay fluttering bunting strung across the streets as it appeared the ,amir was expected here too1 though his visit was to be considered 8private40 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,soothsayer ,,at ,,calcutta--7,,or ,,palmistry ,,under ,,the ,,palms7 ,one of our introductions here was to ,miss ,sorabji1 a ,parsee lady of much influence1 and a most interesting personality1 well known and beloved by a large circle of ,english friends4 ,she had a charming house1 in a garden of palms1 in ,carnac ,street4 ,we found her entertaining a party of fashionable ladies at afternoon tea1 on a shady lawn in front of her house4 ,in the midst of the group1 squatting on the grass1 was a soothsayer and palmist--a ,hindu 8wise man10 robed in white1 but without any turban4 ,he had some oblong-shaped pages out of an ancient book of palmistry1 and some curious phrenological-looking diagrams lying on the grass in front of him1 and these he appeared to be consulting from time to time1 while with great deliberation he examined the hands of the ladies1 who gazed at him quite anxiously1 as if he were really an inspired diviner of their lives4 ,this man was supposed to be gifted with very special powers1 and seemed to be taken quite seriously1 but as far as we could gather1 he was only mentioning the usual range of probable or not impossible events which might happen in the course of any life1 though1 no doubt1 more or less adapted to the circumstances and character of the lady before him1 as far as he could guess it1 and calculated to fit individual cases4 ,he certainly looked wily and cunning enough for anything1 as he moved his finger mysteriously over the charts1 or pretended to count or reckon something while keeping the lady's left hand open before him4 ,a curious scene altogether1 with the afternoon tea-table1 and the ordinary chatter going on4 ,there was an ,industrial ,exhibition open on some open ground near a large1 yellow-washed1 eighteenth century style of church4 ,it combined a switchback railway1 and some of the popular attractions of ,earl's ,court1 with an interesting show of hand-weaving in linens1 silks1 and carpets1 with dyeing1 printing1 and other industries1 the exhibits being those of societies or firms4 ,in some cases the work of various schools of ,art were shown1 as that of the ,maharajah's1 at ,jaipur1 chiefly metal work and enamelling4 ,among the brass work were to be seen the spherical brass rolling lamps1 pierced with an all-over intricate floral design1 that left fairly evenly distributed apertures through which the rays of light would strike when the lamp was lighted within4 ,this1 by an ingenious piece of mechanism1 always maintained its level position1 though the sphere might be rolled along the ground like a ball4 ,it could be opened by hinges in two equal hemispherical halves4 ,these lamps are used at festivals in the temples1 and have a beautiful effect4 ,calcutta is not impressive architecturally1 certainly4 ,the modern buildings are of the usual commercial type as a rule4 ,government ,house has a certain stateliness with its white columned porticoes among the palms and greenery of other trees2 and ,carnac ,street is a long wide street of large detached residences standing in ample gardens4 ,the ,esplanade is a wide open plain in the midst of the town1 with some groups of trees upon it1 but rather brown and desolate1 the turf being burned by the sun4 ,the native quarters are very squalid4 ,the bazaars and shops were often tumble-down temporary-looking sheds and structures of bamboo sticks and straw1 old tins being often seen thrown on to weight the rotten matting or thatch which formed the roofs1 which were often1 too1 patched with corrugated iron4 ,occasionally there was a house-front which had seen better days--a former villa or mansion1 with a columned portico1 but now become a squalid tenement house4 ,these were at least one's impressions on a very short visit2 but it was so oppressive that we were anxious to get away to ,darjeeling1 and so took our departure on ,january #bhth by an afternoon train from the ,iscaldah station4 ,for about an hour or so after leaving ,calcutta1 the train runs through beautiful groves of palms and mangoes1 plantains and bamboos1 intersected by tanks of water1 vegetable gardens1 and thatched villages among the trees4 ,later we crossed the great open plains of ,bengal1 cultivated and fertile under irrigation1 with but few trees1 stretching as far as the eye could see under the full moon4 ,at ,sara we changed1 having to leave the train to cross the river ,ganges4 ,the scene was a strange one4 ,the waiting steamer lying ready1 had to be approached over the wide shallows by two long narrow gangways1 constructed out of a few planks1 suspended from bamboo sticks stuck upright in the shallow water1 with lights at intervals4 ,a troop of ,european and ,american travellers wending their way from the train along one of the gangways to the white steamer1 and a procession of natives with their bundles crowding along the other to the same vessel4 ,arrived on board we found a table spread ready on the quarter-deck and we had an excellent dinner--very superior to those provided by most of the hotels4 ,after this meal was over the steamer started on its voyage across the wide river1 having a strong electric search-light at the bows which threw a great shaft of white light to the opposite shore1 along which it seemed to travel as if finding its way4 ,moths and flying insects fluttering into the beam of light flashed like sparks or fire-flies4 ,we found another train waiting for us at a station on the other bank4 ,here we got into sleeping compartments4 ,i had an ,american bishop and his friend1 a young man1 as travelling companions4 ,about #f ,a4,m4 the next morning we reached the foot of the hills1 where another change was necessary and where breakfast was to be had at the station1 after which we packed ourselves and our belongings into the tiny carriages of the little narrow gauge1 toy-like train which makes the ascent of #gjjj feet to ,darjeeling4 ,starting about level1 the ascent was quite gradual at first1 the line winding through bamboo groves and tea plantations1 and as it grows steeper the track twists up in ,s curves and loops1 threading1 like a steel snake1 through umbrageous woodlands1 sometimes following the road1 sometimes crossing it4 ,among the many beautiful trees there was one of frequent occurrence which was new to us4 ,it had something the manner of growth of an ash1 but having a silvery bark like a birch1 and clusters of large scarlet buds and flowers1 without leaves4 ,some called it the 8,forest ,flame40 ,many of the trees were hung with climbing plants1 forming lovely tangles and festoons1 and through the openings in the woods1 here and there1 we had glimpses of the plains veiled in the morning haze4 ,higher and higher the little train carried us1 curving so sharply1 sometimes1 that one could see the little puffing engine in front1 which had almost the effect1 when rounding the sudden curves and loops1 of some grotesque creature trying to catch its own tail1 like a playful kitten or puppy6 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,darjeeling ,,toy-,,railway ,,trying ,,to ,,catch ,,its ,,own ,,tail6 ,at intervals the various attitudes attained were painted on tablets at the side of the rail1 or at the little stations4 ,at ,siliguri a halt was made for tiffin4 ,here the ,mongolian and ,bhutian peasants came up to the railway carriages and offered us interesting things in the way of silver rings1 and silver ornaments set with turquoise1 and large turquoise earrings of a fine bold design4 ,the women all wore relic or charm-boxes with lids worked in delicate filigree and set with turquoise1 and these were suspended by bead necklaces4 ,silver chatelaines and other charming ornaments were shown us1 the women carrying the stock-in-trade of jewellery upon their persons4 ,the high cheekbones and narrow eyes1 black hair and long pig-tails of the ,mongolian were very marked1 the men having quite a ,chinese look1 with their soft felt1 turned-up inverted cup-and-saucer-shaped hats and pig-tails4 ,the women had broad1 smiling faces1 the effect of which was heightened by a kind of bright brown varnish which made their faces look as if they had been ,french polished--perhaps to suit somebody's furniture8--their hair was intensely black1 and they wore two long plaits or pig-tails4 ,the huts of the villages were of wood1 and the original native roofing was of thin wooden shingles1 which harmonised perfectly with the scenery2 but unfortunately corrugated iron was being extensively substituted for roofing purposes1 and the old thatch or wooden shingles were frequently patched with it4 ,at ,darjeeling it was almost universal1 and in consequence the buildings might be described as tin and temporary4 ,here and there was a fantastic1 but generally not tasteful1 touch of ,germany1 or the ,swiss border1 in the modern villa4 ,little toy-like dwellings are scattered along the mountain-sides in an accidental sort of way1 as if they had been upset out of a box1 and had stuck here and there among the trees in their fall4 ,english suburban names catch the eye--at ,darjeeling--such as 8,daisy ,bank0 and 8,rose ,cottage40 ,the ,europeans come out from ,calcutta in the hot season to dwell here4 ,the huts of the native people look very frail1 almost like card-houses1 leaning up against each other on the edges of cliffs1 their roofs of ragged matting1 straw thatch1 or thin wooden shingles1 or the corrugated iron aforesaid4 ,tall1 tapering bamboo canes are frequently stuck up outside1 bearing vertical strips of white cotton or linen cloth1 like standards1 with light tags of the same fluttering at intervals from their outer edges4 ,these are said to represent prayers1 and are supposed to ward off evil influences4 ,we put up at 8,woodlands0 hotel1 which has a pretty walk up from the station1 lined with fine old trees of the pine kind1 very thick and dark1 and having a slender cone-like form1 reminding one of cypresses4 ,these abound all down the mountain-sides1 but are now in danger of being thinned too freely4 ,the mountain-sides are intersected with paths1 and terraced bridle roads1 along which are perched the dwellings1 above or below the road4 ,as one rides up one can look almost perpendicularly down upon the tin roofs and into the little gardens1 as these paths almost double back on themselves at different heights1 as they wind up the hills4 ,the manager and proprietor of 8,woodlands0 was an ,italian by birth1 but he spoke ,english like a native4 ,he was one of an expedition which attempted to climb the ,kinchin ,junga 7#ah1jjj feet71 a great snow peak of the ,himalayas1 which is conspicuous from ,darjeeling when the clouds disclose the view of the wonderful snow-clad range4 ,illustration3 ,,characters ,,in ,a ,,tibetan ,,masque1 ,,darjeeling ,he occasionally entertained his guests by a lecture in the evenings1 illustrated by photographic slides taken on the expedition 7in #aije7 in which1 however1 four of the party lost their lives by losing their footing on a snow precipice4 ,climbing in the ,himalayas seems to be handicapped by the necessity of taking coolies to carry provisions and camp furniture1 as the explorer leaves the human world entirely behind him in entering these trackless snow-bound solitudes4 ,one evening1 just before daylight had quite faded1 we witnessed a very curious and remarkable performance in the courtyard of the hotel1 lighted by a few lanterns1 which1 however1 rather increased the mystery of the half-light than really added to the illumination of the scene4 ,it was a ,tibetan dance or masque4 ,to the sound of tom-toms1 which marked the time1 a dancer in loose white garments appeared--a man2 he wore a white tunic with a full skirt1 and held a sort of white veil up over his head as he moved1 and he appeared to have on ,mongolian leggings and boots4 ,he danced like a dervish1 whirling rapidly round and round1 his skirts forming a sort of spiral wheel of drapery about him as he moved4 ,this dancer having finished his pas de seul1 as a kind of prelude1 retired1 and was immediately succeeded by another--a fantastic-looking figure also in white1 with the ,tibetan conical turban1 the details of whose costume ,i could not quite make out1 owing to the fitful light1 but he appeared in the characteristic loose tunic and leggings and the ,chinese-like shoes4 ,his style of dancing was quite different to the dervish1 and might be described as a combination of the jig and the reel4 ,while he was dancing there entered two very grotesque ,chinese-looking lions1 queer monsters1 made up of two people who furnished the four legs--probably a man for the fore-quarters and a boy for the hindmost4 ,their heads or masks seemed to be each formed of half a tortoise shell1 ingeniously enough the openings at the side of the shell being utilised as the sockets of large fierce staring eyes1 a large open red mouth1 and gleaming rows of pointed white teeth1 completing a terrific countenance4 ,yellow drapery concealed all but the feet1 which were clad in some kind of tawny soft leather4 ,these lions were extremely lively1 and frisked about1 and lashed their tails in a most spirited way1 keeping time with the tom-toms through all their wild movements2 as1 together with the second dancer1 who was1 it appeared1 the lion-tamer1 they went through a very active and energetic dance4 ,this over1 each lion lay down1 one on one side of the ground 7there being no stage71 and one on the other1 facing the audience as they couched4 ,then entered a sort of knight1 or warrior1 on a red hobby-horse1 and the dance was continued by his chasing the lion-tamer round and round1 the latter always eluding his pursuer1 and always emphatically repeating by the action of his arms the beat of the tom-toms in a defiant sort of way4 ,six more hobby-horsed riders in different costumes and colours next came in1 one after the other1 and joined in the pursuit of the lion-tamer4 ,presently1 however1 they changed the figure1 the red hobby-horse remaining stationary1 while the other six formed a sort of quadrille1 advancing and retiring1 and crossing over1 as in the opening figure of 8the ,lancers40 ,i forget exactly how the lion-tamer employed himself while this proceeded1 but ,i think he must have temporarily subsided1 while the hobby-horses kept the attention of the audience4 ,finally they all joined hands and danced in a ring1 raising a curious kind of chant the while1 after which the hobby-horses all marched out in single file1 still chanting4 ,then a peacock 7with a skirt7 came in1 moving in a slow1 measured and stately fashion1 dancing and bowing in a quaint manner1 flapping its wings occasionally2 next it approached one of the couchant lions1 who all this while had remained passive1 and apparently sleeping1 and gave it a sudden and decisive peck1 the action being instantly emphasised by the tom-toms4 ,after more genuflexions the peacock finished his dance by giving a similar peck to the other lion1 each lion at the touch starting violently and lashing their tails4 ,then exit the peacock4 ,next appeared1 crawling in with a sort of wobble1 a turtle1 also wearing a skirt which concealed its feet4 ,at its entry the lion-tamer exhibited all the symptoms of comic fear1 trying to hide himself from the turtle1 and finally as it approached nearer1 he threw himself on the ground and wriggled and writhed about in an access of ridiculous terror4 ,presently1 however1 whatever had animated the interior of the turtle it vanished unperceived1 and the shell lay motionless on the ground4 ,the lion-tamer approaching it apprehensively1 but eventually taking up the shell1 he danced up to the lions1 who sprang to their feet1 and then all these whirled about in a wild tempestuous dance to double quick time1 until the lions1 apparently exhausted1 both lay down again in the same order as before4 ,again the troops of hobby-horses entered1 and after another spin with the lion-tamer1 all marched out1 chanting1 the beat of the tom-toms gradually growing fainter till they ceased as the company disappeared4 ,we had not yet been favoured with a glimpse of the great snow peaks4 ,kinchin ,junga seemed extremely shy1 and remained wrapped in impenetrable folds of cloud which rolled over the edges of the narrow hills1 or steamed up from the deep valleys1 enacting the constant-inconstant drama of cloud and mountain1 always a most fascinating spectacle4 ,on ,january #cjth1 however1 in the morning1 between seven and eight1 we were at last rewarded by a beautiful glimpse of the snow peaks of the ,himalayas1 dominated by that of ,kinchin ,junga1 clear in the golden light of early morning1 piercing the turquoise sky1 like the vision of some celestial city floating on a sea of roseate cloud4 ,the unusual height of the peaks in the sky surprised the eye1 accustomed to see clouds where now were these vast mountains4 ,the delicate modelling of the snow summits clear and sharp in the sunlight had the effect of making them look much nearer than the intervening valleys and dark pine covered slopes lost in mist and deep shadow1 and it was strange to think that one gazed at these snow peaks across a distance of about #de miles4 ,illustration3 ,,kinchin ,,junga ,,from ,,darjeeling ,human dwellings and structures looked flimsy and trifling1 no more than the work of ants or spiders1 comparatively speaking1 but indeed ,darjeeling has no architecture to boast of4 ,for a region subject to earthquakes great allowances must necessarily be made1 but the corrugated iron style certainly failed to assert the dignity of man in such a landscape1 and the native hut did not look more permanent or substantial than a bird's nest4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,shy ,,peak ,,of ,,kinchin ,,junga ,the little town has a central square where there is a native market4 ,little low bazaars line the sides1 and the streets1 but in the centre the vendors spread out their stock-in-trade on the bare ground4 ,there may be seen turquoises in great quantity1 and unset stones of many kinds1 and an infinitude of silver rings and ornaments4 ,the best1 however1 were always offered by the country people and the coolies1 and the ,bhutian women1 who always seemed able to produce any number1 and we were followed by quite a little crowd holding out rings and silver ornaments to tempt us1 when we went through the market4 ,my wife discovered a pair of green pigeons in a characteristic ,indian domed-cage made of canes1 hanging outside one of the native huts1 and sent our bearer to negotiate the purchase1 and for six rupees they changed hands4 ,the birds travelled with us to ,ceylon1 and on the steamer homewards till we met the cold weather in the ,mediterranean1 when the hen bird died1 the cock surviving until we reached ,italy4 ,they had to be fed upon a sort of meal made from a kind of powdered dried peas1 not always easily obtainable4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,ride ,,at ,,darjeeling3 8,,up ,,hill ,,spare ,,me0 ,there were many interesting walks and rides at ,darjeeling4 ,a favourite excursion was to ,tiger ,hill1 a distance of six miles1 from where ,mount ,everest1 the highest mountain of the world1 can be seen--in fine clear weather1 and sunrise is the usual time for it4 ,the modes of progression are by jin-rickshaws or ponies4 ,there are excellent ponies to be had at ,woodlands1 and we enjoyed the steepest ride we had ever experienced4 ,the pig-tailed ,mongolian coolies are always on hand in the courtyard of the hotel1 waiting for custom in either mode of transport4 ,palanquins are also used4 ,we met here some ,english friends and fellow-travellers4 ,it was pleasant to fall in with my old ,bostonian friend1 ,mr ,louis ,prang1 who1 with ,mrs ,prang1 were travelling with a party of some twelve ,bostonians4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,hailstone ,,chorus--,,departure ,,from ,,darjeeling ,the alarming accounts of the prevalence of smallpox at ,bhutia deterred us from going to see the ,buddhist temple at ,bhutia ,busti1 though the immediate cause was a thunder-storm1 which came on just as the rickshaws had been ordered1 and stopped our excursion2 and being advised to abandon the project for the reason above given we made no second attempt4 ,before leaving ,darjeeling we were favoured by another clear vision of the snow peaks and ,kinchin ,junga in all his glory1 before breakfast1 and ,i was glad to have been able to secure two drawings as a record of that wonderful view4 ,we departed on the first of ,february in a hail-storm1 walking down to the station in a pelting shower of enormous stones1 which rattled around us with a thunder and lightning accompaniment4 ,the hail-stones are so large sometimes in that district1 and the storms so violent1 that much damage is done4 ,at ,woodlands all the glass windows here on one occasion were broken1 we heard2 and also that the stones were known to have been occasionally large enough to kill deer6 ,we were soon on our way1 joggling down to the plains again in the squeezy little train1 the hail turning to rain lower down1 and we were sometimes wrapped in cloud4 ,as we got still lower1 however1 the sky towards the north-west began to clear1 and there was a striking effect as of a great curtain being lifted up1 showing the bright sky beyond and the sun shining on the plains4 ,soon we passed into his light again1 and enjoyed clear weather to his setting4 ,reversing in the course of our journey the changes1 we proceeded to ,sara again1 recrossing the ,ganges1 the search-light producing striking effects as it wandered over the shore and the vessels1 picking out its twin white steamer with startling distinctness4 ,we had the morning light over the fruitful plains of ,bengal1 in which the scarlet flowering trees or 8forest flame0 before spoken of looked more wonderful than ever4 ,the thatched huts of the native villages were interesting in shape1 and differed from any other local variety we had seen4 ,they were built of bamboo1 with curving roof ridges4 ,groups of these huts were of frequent occurrence2 they stood on raised platforms1 interspersed with plantains1 or date or cocoa palms1 the window openings on the inward side only1 and under the deep overhanging eaves4 ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,madras ,,and ,,the ,,south ,availing ourselves of the kind hospitality of our friend in ,carnac ,street1 we reposed during the day intending to leave ,calcutta again by the night train 7,madras ,mail7 for ,madras1 our next destination4 ,this was a considerable journey as a glance at the map will show2 in fact it was our longest in ,india1 occupying two nights and two days4 ,after some anxious moments in ,carnac ,street1 through our tickorgary not turning up for us at the time ordered1 or through some muddling on the part of our bearer1 we eventually got conveyed to ,howrah ,station4 ,luckily the train did not start so soon as stated--it never does in ,india--and we were saved4 ,illustration3 ,,calcutta ,,to ,,madras--,,section ,,of ,,sleeper--,,or ,,something ,,like ,,it ,the train proved1 however1 to be very crowded1 and we could only secure a berth each in separate compartments1 though there was a small sliding door between the ladies' and the gentlemen's sleeping compartment1 through which communication could be made4 ,four ladies1 a baby1 and a parrot1 and the green pigeons made up the complement in the ladies' part4 ,i had two travelling companions only1 a river-steamer captain or engineer on sick leave1 going south with his family1 and an ,english officer of the ,army ,medical ,service going to some hill station beyond ,madras4 ,the former kept himself going with whiskey and soda1 of which he freely invited his fellow travellers to partake4 ,the latter proved to be ,capt4 ,j4 ,b4 ,dalzell ,hunter of the #fdth pioneers4 ,he was studying ,persian1 and introduced me to a most interesting book1 the 8,,iqd-,i-,,gul10 or 8,the ,rose ,necklace10 being selections from the ,gulistan and auwr-i-suhaite translated into literal ,english with notes by ,adlat ,khan4 ,this was full of delightful stories1 and rich with oriental imagery and wisdom4 ,leaving ,calcutta in the darkness of night1 of course nothing could be seen of the country till next morning when we were approaching ,cuttack1 when we took 8,chota ,hazri0--or early light breakfast4 ,a little south of this hills appeared inland reminding one in character and apparent height of our lake country4 ,we passed ,poori1 the junction for ,juggernath1 where crowds of pilgrims go1 especially at the time of the great festival of ,krishna in ,march1 when the image of the god is borne through the town on the famous car1 out to a temple in the country4 ,the old story we were told in childhood of the dreadful heathen custom of the natives on such occasions throwing themselves under the wheels of the car of ,juggernath has been discredited4 ,krishna1 being a god of love and life1 not a destroyer1 would not be pleased with human sacrifices1 and they would be quite inappropriate4 ,it might be possible1 however1 that the car1 drawn as it is by men with great cables1 through the press of pilgrims1 might accidentally crush some one fallen in the crowd1 and ,european missionaries may have misunderstood what had really happened1 and had misrepresented and exaggerated it4 ,there were many new and different types of natives at the stations4 ,we were now on the ,bengal-,nagpur ,railway1 and the native crowds1 and groups entering or leaving the train all down the line1 were most interesting in character and colour4 ,pilgrims from ,juggernaut bearing small canes back with them as signs of their pilgrimage1 ,brahmans with red marks like seals on their foreheads1 and others with the triple pronged fork-like mark of ,siva in white and red4 ,the men wore their hair long like women1 sometimes done up in ample knots at the back of the head1 and sometimes hanging down the back4 ,all wore a sort of tight cotton skirt or piece of drapery chequered or patterned in colour wrapped round the loins1 and depending from the waist to the feet2 a white loose jacket frequently surmounted this1 so that judging only from the back view1 the stranger with ,european prepossessions as to dress distinctions between the sexes1 might have some difficulty in saying which was which1 or who was who1 especially as the native women frequently wore similar skirts1 white bodices1 and their hair in knots4 ,it was chiefly the beards that betrayed the gentlemen2 otherwise the equality of the sexes was fairly well established1 as to outward appearance at least1 in the way that might astonish some of our ,western reformers4 ,it is true some of the men1 like the ancient ,egyptians1 wore nothing above the skirt1 except perhaps a white scarf on the shoulders1 and the field-workers and coolies all down the ,coromandel coast wore nothing but white turbans and waist cloths4 ,illustration3 ,,ladies ,,or ,,gentlemen8 7,,fashions ,,in ,,southern ,,india7 ,we passed the ,silver ,lake1 really an inlet of the sea nearly surrounded by hills1 the train startling large flocks of brown geese from the margin as it passed4 ,our old friends the white cranes we saw again lower down the line among the marshy pools4 ,paddy fields in various stages1 often under water1 irrigation wells drawn by oxen1 as well as another pattern--like the ,hungarian or ,egyptian1 a walking beam weighted at one end1 the other having a rope attached to the bucket4 ,the ,southern ,indian ones are1 however1 worked by the natives1 generally two1 working up and down from the centre1 from which the beam swings1 making it dip and rise again with bucket1 the men steadying themselves by upright bamboos fixed each side1 sometimes chanting a song to mark the time and enable them to move together4 ,groves of palms were passed and pyramidal hills1 bringing the same suggestion of ,egypt we had had before1 on the way to ,chitorgarh4 ,there was no doubt about getting further south as the temperature was much higher1 the thermometer registering #ge to #hj and this was ,february #d1 whereas only two days before we had been shivering over a fire at ,darjeeling6 ,in the burning sun we could see the dark figures in white turbans and waist cloths1 coolies on the railway line1 and ploughmen in the fields toiling in the heat4 ,we stopped for breakfast at ,berhampore4 ,in the district from here to ,vizianagram there was formerly a flourishing silk weaving industry among the natives4 8,all gone now10 said a bright-looking ,european official in white drill and topi who entered our compartment4 ,from what he told us further1 it seems that this industry declined for very obvious causes--because the raw silk1 the very material upon which it subsisted1 was exported and consequently the occupation of the native hand-loom weavers was gone4 ,at ,waltair1 one passenger left1 but our compartment was kept full as another immediately succeeded him and all four berths were occupied on the second night4 ,one got more or less broken sleep1 but perhaps more than might be expected4 ,at ,bapatia next morning there was chota hazri1 or early tea1 ready1 and it was very welcome4 ,at ,bitragunta there was a halt for breakfast4 ,as we approached ,madras1 late in the afternoon1 we came by lovely groves of palms1 quite dark thick forests of them1 with pools of water among them in which water lilies bloomed4 ,green parroquets decorated the telegraph wires1 sitting in rows much as the swallows do in ,england in the autumn4 ,the telegraph wires all over ,india are however a favourite resting perch with a variety of birds1 and quick an observer may get a good notion of the variety of species in ,indian ,ornithology by noticing the many kinds of birds which may be seen in such positions1 clearly silhouetted against the sky4 ,we arrived at the ,beach ,station1 ,madras1 about five o'clock on ,february #d1 relieved to have reached the end of our long journey4 ,hotel touts here may be described as active and strong on the wing4 ,we eventually squeezed ourselves into a tickagary with our light baggage1 and in spite of the presence of ,moonsawmy--or perhaps in colusion with him--an officious native guide mounted the box and offered us information as to the public buildings we passed on the way to the hotel4 ,the ,prince of ,wales's was full1 but the proprietor advised us of another not far off1 known as the ,castle1 which had formerly been the pavilion or palace of a native prince1 and was a large two-storied yellow washed building with colonnades on the ground floor1 and extensive terraces on to which the rooms opened out1 on the first floor4 ,these terraces were protected by a parapet which took the form of low battlements1 whence possibly the hotel derived its name4 ,there was a pleasant garden shaded by trees around the building1 walled in from the road1 and having entrance gates4 ,here we found agreeable rooms and plenty of space1 without oppressive luxury or comfort1 and as cool as might be expected1 if it is ever cool anywhere in ,madras8 ,the hotel was under ,english management1 and photographs of familiar places at ,torquay and on the ,cornish coast hung in our salon4 ,mosquito curtains told their usual tale1 being generally a necessity in ,india1 but are more particularly so at ,madras4 ,on the drive from the station we passed ,fort ,st ,george which dates from #afhj1 and is the only building of any historic interest4 ,there were big ,law ,courts in a pretentious ,italian ,gothic style after the manner of modern ,bombay architecture4 ,the ,british traders and their stores and posters were in evidence1 and 8summer sales0 going strong at the drapers1 attracting smartly dressed ,english ladies in their motors and dog-carts4 ,the streets were broad1 and there was plenty of space everywhere4 ,the hotels and bungalows were surrounded by large gardens1 and abundant trees--palms being very plentiful4 ,it was pleasant to hear the clear notes of birds in the early morning1 and of course we had the usual kite and crow chorus4 ,in the evening there was a children's party going on at a pavilion in the garden1 and popular ,european waltz tunes came from a piano4 ,the temperature in our rooms ranged from #ge to #hj and we felt anything but energetic4 ,we had1 moreover1 in the afternoon an interesting drive out to the ,adyar ,library1 the headquarters of the ,theosophical ,society built by ,colonel ,alcott who was now lying ill there4 ,having had a telegram from ,mrs ,annie ,besant in the morning1 a visit was arranged4 ,she could not leave the ,colonel1 as he was then in a dying state4 ,our road lay between beautiful groves of palms of various kinds1 mostly cocoa palms1 and native villages1 the huts of one story1 long and low1 and roofed with ridge tiles of a delightful bronze colour1 the tiles1 probably sun-baked1 being doubled and trebled over and under alternately4 ,the roads were covered with a fine dust of a rich reddish-brown tint1 almost coffee colour1 and this tint varied with the full red and bright white of the dresses of the natives1 and their dark skins1 and relieved by the clear light green of the paddy fields1 and the gold and green of the palms1 in the warm evening sunlight1 made a fine harmony4 ,we passed a ,hindu temple and a tank1 and crossed a bridge over the broad river 7,adyar7 and on the other side presently drove under an ancient fragment of a stone carved gateway1 and so through the wooded grounds to the ,adyar ,library1 a new building of red brick and red sandstone of semi-,hindu type4 ,a lady clad in white conducted me to a large upper chamber very lofty and long in proportion to its width1 furnished more or less like a ,european drawing-room1 with chairs and couches1 but high on the wall at intervals were various religious symbols1 in white plaster relief1 among which ,i noticed the ,gammadion and the ,serpent and the ,tree4 ,there was a pretty view over the river from the windows1 on the side4 ,presently ,mrs ,besant entered4 ,she was robed in white4 ,it was the sari dress of the native women in some fine soft material1 with embroidered borders also white4 ,her hair too had whitened since ,i knew her in ,london many years before4 ,we spoke of the old days--of ,cunninghame ,graham1 ,g4 ,bernard ,shaw1 and ,sidney ,webb4 ,mrs ,besant1 once an active and ardent socialist1 seemed to have quite removed herself into another world1 strikingly different from the one of strife and protest in which she with her wonderful eloquence had been a potent influence1 and was now devoting her life to inculcating the principles of ,theosophy and educational work among the young ,hindus4 ,her idea was to gather the best elements out of all religions1 and to unite them in one comprehensive creed1 the keynote of which1 as ,i understood1 is universal brotherhood4 ,in her schools she desired to cultivate the higher side of the native ,hindu religion1 refining and spiritualising1 though by no means ,europeanizing1 but preserving all native characteristics in dress and courteous manners1 and as far as possible preventing any ,western contamination4 ,in the great hall on the ground floor the first thing that catches the visitor's eye is the text inscribed aloft on the entablature in large carved characters--8,there is no religion higher than truth40 ,on the walls of this hall1 also1 are carved in stone another series of symbols1 treated as a series of panels in relief1 and among these it was interesting to find ,mr ,holman ,hunt's well-known picture 8,the ,light of the ,world10 reproduced in relief by a native sculptor4 ,in a recess in the opposite wall was a life-size seated portrait of ,madame ,blavatsky in marble4 ,it was intended to place a statue of ,colonel ,alcott standing beside her1 ,mr ,besant told me4 ,his loss will be a severe one for the ,society4 ,we drove back by way of the ,triplicane or ,mohammedan quarter--the native bazaar1 a brilliant scene of colour and movement4 ,on the way we passed several 8,toddy ,tappers10 as they are called1 at work on the palm and stems4 ,these are natives who extract a sort of spirit from the palm1 and who1 clad only in white turbans and waist-cloths1 climb the tall1 smooth columnar stems of the cocoa palm1 by a curious method--a sort of loop of cane which encircles the upper part of the body1 and hooks round the tree stem4 ,this they shift in jerks as they climb1 using their legs and feet in the usual way as a grip on the stem4 ,we noticed the small1 gourd-like bottles attached to some of the trees1 which are placed so as to catch the juice from incisions made in the bark4 ,the spirit made from this juice is sold in the bazaars4 ,illustration3 ,,madras--,a ,,jin-,,rickshaw ,,made ,,for ,,two ,the jin-rickshaw is much in use in ,madras as a means of locomotion1 and some of them will even carry two people at once1 though this seems heavy for one boy4 ,the native boys who draw them are1 however1 active enough and but little encumbered with clothes1 and are always eager for custom4 ,mount ,road is the main thoroughfare in the ,european quarter1 and here all the principal shops and stores are situated4 ,these as buildings were mostly pretentious and tasteless4 ,st ,george's cathedral was a semi-classic church with a pointed spire4 ,the ,post ,office had red-tiled gabled spires of a more or less ,swiss type1 with iron crestings1 and arcaded balconies on each story4 ,one sees relics of eighteenth century semi-classic taste in some of the older houses with plastered walls yellow and white-washed4 ,the vast gardens which broke the continuity of the buildings1 and often isolated them1 and the pleasant avenue-like character of the main roads1 always lined with shady trees1 made up for many architectural short-comings1 and again suggested spacious ideas for a garden city4 ,at the head of ,mount ,road was the ,munro statue where other roads diverged--a bronze statue by ,chantry of a gentleman in a cloak pointing--probably to indicate his line of policy1 though1 more literally1 he might be taken to be showing the stranger what a long way he was from ,madras4 ,the electric trams are no doubt useful as the distances are enormous and dusty1 walking being impossible for ,europeans1 as they would soon be covered with a powdering of fine red dust4 ,we paid a visit one evening to the ,botanic ,gardens where we saw the ,victoria ,regia 7which is usually associated with the inside of a hothouse at ,kew7 growing in the open on a lake4 ,there were beautiful palms here and many varieties of trees4 ,one we noted was covered with white blossoms which looked and smelled like orange or lemon flowers1 and had green fruit of an egg shape1 hanging from its branches4 ,madras we found too oppressive and inervating to stay long1 and so on ,february #hth we departed for ,tanjore1 rising at #d4cj ,a4,m4 to catch an early train1 and were only able to snatch a hasty hazri1 and get into a belated carriage and drive through the gloom of the early morning--or rather by the dim light of the waning moon to the station for the #e4de train ,south4 ,our compartment was shared at different stages of the journey by ,british officers4 ,a ,babu with a quantity of baggage1 and three ,german ,mission people--a gentleman and two ladies with still more baggage1 who filled it pretty well up to ,tanjore4 ,the country seemed very productive1 and on each side of the line most of the way were large crops of paddy1 much of it under water4 ,in many places1 too1 the natives were ploughing in the water4 ,the crops in some of the fields 7or rather pastures separated by low banks of earth7 were a brilliant light green1 in others the grain was ripe1 and was being reaped with hooks by the natives1 while further on they would be threshing and stacking the straw4 ,the method of threshing out the grain was primitive4 ,a man would hold a loose sheaf in his hand and beat it hard1 several times in succession1 on the ground2 this shook out the grain1 and then he would cast the straw that remained to the men who were stacking it near by4 ,they made low wide stacks straight on to the bare earth4 ,the women gathered up the paddy as it was reaped4 ,we passed more fine groves of cocoa palms1 distant hills were visible inland here and there1 and there were generally large sheets of water each side of the line1 but the rivers which we frequently crossed were almost dry4 ,the crowds of natives at all the stations were again very interesting4 ,the men generally wearing their hair long and done up in knots4 ,in fact the men had finer and more luxuriant heads of hair than the women1 whose hair was usually short and fuzzy4 ,sometimes the men had their foreheads and temples shaved1 and let their hair grow freely at the back4 ,caste marks were painted very boldly and distinctly on the dark foreheads4 ,the sacred mark of ,siva occurring most frequently--a red vertical stroke in the centre between two white lines radiating from the nose4 ,the men also wore the coloured skirt tightly wrapped about their middle and falling to their feet1 the upper parts of their bodies being left bare1 except for a loose white scarf1 like a towel1 thrown over their shoulders4 ,the coolies and agriculturists wore nothing but turbans and waist-cloths4 ,the women invariably wore silver nose rings1 earings and anklets1 and the ,sari dress4 ,mahomedans seemed to be very scarce in these parts4 ,as to colour1 reds and whites prevailed in the dresses4 ,sometimes the vivid crude 7magenta7 aniline pink which has become unfortunately too common in ,india was to be seen4 ,a favourite blend was red and yellow in the women's ,sari dresses1 in stripes1 or crossed tartan-wise4 ,light cakes1 bananas1 and painted toys and other trifles were hawked about at the stations1 the sellers uttering curious cries and chants4 ,every station had its tap of water1 and always a thirsty throng of natives from their crowded compartments would be seen clustering around it filling their bright brass drinking cups1 which they invariably carry1 quenching their thirst and washing themselves4 ,apropos of the refreshment stations1 ,i find a note in my journal as to what appears to have been a particularly unsatisfactory ,tiffin at ,villuparam1 for which we were induced to pay #a rupee #h annas in advance1 but of which 8only a little currie was really eatable40 ,how much more sensible 7perchance not so profitable7 it would be to give travellers the chance of ordering from the carte1 and paying according to a fixed tariff4 ,travellers are by no means always able to eat the provided meal1 and need milk and easily digestible foods1 and simple cookery4 ,the hard meat1 stringy fowl1 and messed up dishes usually offered are very inappropriate1 if not positively injurious food4 ,simply cooked sound fresh food is a great want at hotels and railway stations all over ,india4 ,we arrived at ,tanjore between #f and #g in the evening4 ,there were sleeping and refreshment rooms at the station4 ,the station-master met us and said that a room would be vacant at #i o'clock1 as ,lord and ,lady ----8 who then occupied them were leaving by the #i ,p4,m4 mail4 ,in the meantime we had a ladies' waiting-room to ourselves and could dine during the interval4 ,the sleeping-rooms were across a bridge on the other side of the line in a new terraced building1 with an ,english housekeeper sort of woman to receive us and our rupees4 ,there was quite an up-to-date porcelain bath1 but1 on examination1 one tap was cut off1 and there was no water in the other6 ,there were spring beds and mosquito curtains1 and it was a fairly cool room4 ,the system here was to charge #a rupee #h annas for a room for the first twelve hours1 and if occupied for longer then the rate was higher4 ,illustration3 ,,tanjore--,,the ,,great ,,gate ,,of ,,the ,,temple ,hearing there was a good ,dak bungalow near by1 we decided to take up our quarters there the next morning and found it quite nice1 cool1 quiet1 old-fashioned and unpretentious1 and there being no other travellers we had it all to ourselves4 ,from what the native in charge said it appeared that the new station rooms rather injured his custom1 as travellers now mostly stayed there4 ,our exploration of ,tanjore commenced by driving to the ,old ,fort within which stands the great ,hindu ,temple dedicated to ,siva4 ,the great gateway is approached by a bridge over a moat1 then dry1 which surrounds the ,fort4 ,the outer gate is plastered and is crowned by a row of figures of deities in niches which are brightly coloured4 ,the great gateway is of yellow sandstone and is richly carved--a mass of figures and detail4 ,the image of the god ,siva and his various incarnations constantly appears4 ,various legends connected with these are painted on the walls of the court at the back of an arcade1 and are exceedingly curious4 ,the great ,nandi1 or sacred ,bull of ,siva1 a colossal image of a recumbent ,bull1 richly ornamented with chains and bells around his neck1 is seen on a pedestal approached by steps in the centre of the court1 under a pillared and decorated canopy4 ,when we saw it first a magnificent peacock had perched himself upon the head of the bull1 his tail drooping over its neck4 ,the bull was carved out of a fine black stone1 really syenite1 but much darkened by libations of oil with which the image is constantly anointed4 ,it has all the character of the type of zebu in this district4 ,we saw its living prototype in a street of ,tanjore--a splendid black bull 7short-horned7 lying down with its yoke companion1 a white one1 equally noble looking4 ,the pillared front of the small temple close by was richly coloured1 and on a sort of frieze was a series of portraits of the reigning family of ,maharajahs4 ,the ,temple guide spoke a little ,english1 but occasionally would stop for want of words1 but we generally gathered his meaning1 and he seemed unusually intelligent4 ,ganesha1 the elephant god 7of generation7 frequently appeared among the others1 ,siva and ,parvati being the chief4 ,one of the scenes painted on the wall of the arcade1 already spoken of1 represented the wedding of ,siva and ,parvati1 who stood1 hand in hand1 with a tree in the middle--like ,adam and ,eve4 ,among the guests at this wedding were represented two giants1 one whose appetite seemed to know no limit1 while the thirst of the other was unquenchable4 ,the first was shown devouring all kinds of food1 and to express the drinking capacity of the other a stream of water full of fish was flowing into the mouth of the other4 ,these were very primitive paintings1 but expressive4 ,the figures were drawn in black outline and filled in with flat tints4 ,at the gate of the ,temple there were drawings on the white-washed wall in thick outline in ,indian red1 in quite a different style and no doubt of a much later date4 ,a large number of ,lingams were shown in rows placed together in one corner of the court1 and there were many ,lingam shrines in the arcade besides4 ,here and there was colouring on the carved figures1 but1 as a rule1 the elaborately carved pagodas were left in yellow sandstone1 which had blackened where exposed to the weather1 and it may have been that colour had been worn off4 ,the later temple 7dating from about the fifteenth century7 had remarkably delicate carving on its lower courses1 the edges being frequently pierced4 ,at the steps of the entrance an elephant1 carved on each side1 formed the balustrade1 each having two trunks1 one curling inwards and holding a man in its coil1 and the second extended and terminating in a volute at the end of the steps on each side4 ,there was a noticeable point1 as giving further evidence of primitive wooden construction1 in the carved detail under the eaves of the great temple where there was a sort of intersected lattice work faithfully rendered in stone4 ,it recalled the screens of bamboo and matting1 commonly used in this district1 added on to the edges of the tiled roofs in front of the huts and bungalows as extra shields from the sun1 and this carved stone lattice work may have been derived from the wood work and the cane and wicker structure of the primitive buildings which preceded the use of stone4 ,in the court of the great temple1 in a shed 7roofed with corrugated iron ,i regret to say71 we saw the cars used for the procession through the city1 on the occasion of the great annual festival in ,march1 which appears to be similar to the ,juggernaut4 ,the high pyramidal canopied roof1 supported on columns1 was carved like the pagoda of a temple1 which1 in fact1 it represented4 ,the image of the god being placed within4 ,the car would be drawn by a pair of oxen4 ,we saw afterwards a religious procession of the kind passing down the principal street4 ,two men carried a banner in front1 a piece of red cloth suspended between two poles4 ,after them came a band playing tom-toms and hautboys1 such as we heard at ,benares4 ,then came the car drawn by two zebus1 with its high pagoda1 accompanied by priests in white robes1 with long hair and marks on their foreheads4 ,it struck me as remarkable how closely the dress of the native men here resembles that of the people of ancient ,egypt as pictured on the monuments4 ,indeed1 the ,hindu pantheon itself suggests a certain kinship to the symbolic ,egyptian religion1 embracing1 as it appears to do1 the deification of all natural forces and types of animals and birds4 ,the ,hindus have their elephant god1 their monkey god1 and their parrot god1 for instance1 each figured with the animal's head but otherwise human1 just as the ,egyptians imaged their hawk-headed1 cat-headed1 and other deities4 ,the ox of ,osiris1 too1 seems to present a parallel to the sacred bull of ,siva4 ,we next visited the tank in the citadel1 noted for the purity of its water1 but it looked muddy enough we thought1 and felt no inclination to test the sample offered us by a native in a cup4 ,near the tank was a very plain ,christian church1 dating from about the end of the #ahth century or the beginning of the #aith1 absolutely bare of ornament or symbol1 with the exception of a small mural monument at the west end--a bas-relief in marble by ,flaxman1 in memory of one ,schwartz1 a ,british missionary4 ,not1 however1 a very good specimen of the sculptor's work1 and looking as if it had been rather done to order1 and though it had ,flaxman's characteristic broad simple treatment1 was rather over smooth and 8goody-goody0 in expression--a missionary looking benevolent on his death-bed1 clerical attendant and probable successor at his side1 group of good boys in front1 and row of turbaned ,indians1 presumably converts1 on the other side of the bed4 ,it was curious to see this bare1 gaunt1 puritanical-looking church1 planted almost in the shadow of the great ,hindu temple with its frank nature worship1 pantheism1 and riot of symbolism and imagery4 ,from the citadel and the temples we drove over the bridge across the river into the city to see the palace of the ,maharajah4 ,not a very beautiful building--a big1 rambling1 yellow-washed pile1 looking rather untidy and neglected4 ,in the guardroom at the entrance gate1 there was a portrait of the father of the present prince4 ,through a corridor1 the walls of which were painted with quaint figures1 we reached a small chamber1 open on one side1 but painted on the three other walls with large equestrian portraits of three ,maharajahs--grandfather1 father1 and son4 ,they were in profile1 very richly dressed1 and on finely caparisoned horses1 with hunting dogs--the dogs running underneath the horses4 ,these mural portraits were painted in tempera1 apparently1 on the white-washed wall1 and had flaked off in places1 but they were good characteristic ,indian work1 and reminded one a little in treatment of ,european medival design1 such as may be seen in ,burgundian tapestries of the end of the fifteenth century4 ,we next came to a small court where we saw the ,durbar ,hall1 divided from the court by an open colonnade4 ,inside was a miscellaneous collection of objects--portraits1 rather dreary ones of the ,maharajahs and favourite hounds1 some on very dilapidated canvasses with holes through them--old-fashioned ,french lithographs of the early 8fifties10 much fly-blown2 a handsome palanquin1 with dragons' heads on the ends of the poles2 another one was carved1 and plated with ivory4 ,there was also a beautiful ivory fan1 of a large size and peculiar shape1 probably to be used as a punka4 ,then1 too1 there was a bronze bust of ,lord ,nelson1 presented by some ,english lady to a former ,maharajah1 and her own work4 ,then we saw the library1 which contained quite a large collection of old-fashioned ,english books--in eighteenth and early nineteenth century bindings--such as a set of ,the ,spectator1 ,hayley's ,poems1 ,burns1 ,scott1 etc41 and also an extensive library of ,hindu and ,tamil manuscripts4 ,these were peculiar in form1 and consisted of long oblong sheets of a roughish sort of paper1 rather resembling papyrus in quality1 protected by thin boards on loose covers of thin wood1 secured round the middle by ties4 ,these covers were sometimes lacquered on their outsides in various designs4 ,on one ,i noticed the typical design representing ,vishnu1 with the lotus flower springing from his navel which contains the figure of ,buddha1 ,laksmi looking on in wonder4 ,these figures were drawn in black outline on gold1 the gold high-toned with coloured lacquers4 ,a smell of naphtha or some such moth antidote pervaded the place4 ,we were then shown the armoury1 where there were some rather showy sporting guns of ,english make1 bearing the name of ,mortimer ,co41 and elaborately chased4 ,there were very vile portraits of ,king ,edward ,,vii4 and ,queen ,alexandra4 ,after this we saw another ,durbar ,hall--the ,maharana's--adorned with more dreary portraits of the family and a few stuffed birds4 ,the most curious thing was a real skeleton in a real cupboard1 side by side with a skeleton beautifully imitated in ivory4 ,there they hung inside a plain upright cupboard1 looking like a hanging wardrobe--but what a wardrobe6 ,what hung there needed no robes6 ,down the main street of ,tanjore there were placed at intervals very curious and richly carved wooden pagodas1 apparently very old1 upon cars with massive wheels of wood1 somewhat like rude ox-cart wheels1 some of them being discs4 ,these were probably used in processions at the festivals4 ,the houses were generally low1 and of only one story1 with the low-pitched ridge-tiled roofs as at ,madras1 the porches and raised terraces on platforms in front forming the shops1 being further protected from the sun by lean-to extra roofs or screens of matting and bamboo1 sometimes supported on uprights of cocoa palm stems4 ,occasionally these screens are supported by growing trees which spread their foliage above4 ,pumpkins and gourds are often grown upon the tiled roofs1 and have a charming effect with their wandering stems1 green leaves1 and golden spheres of fruit scattered over the rich brown tiles4 ,the roads are deep in red-brown dust as at ,madras1 and there is a continual traffic of little covered tongas drawn by little trotting zebus in single harness4 ,we had a broken-down victoria to drive in1 and a fearful old crock of a horse1 given to jibbing and really not fit to drive4 ,the carriage seats were sliding ones1 too6 ,tanjore spreads itself over a large area of open spaces1 interspersed with trees1 gardens1 and tanks4 ,the water is abundant1 and washing operations frequent4 ,there is no coherent plan about the town1 the streets wandering about into open space1 and leaving off in a casual sort of way4 ,there was a considerable market going on in provisions1 and there was a silk-weaving quarter where may be seen the native weavers stretching long threads of silk on bamboo frames the whole length of the street1 and winding it off on to wheels--our carriage nearly collided with one in a narrow street4 ,the raw silk is often wound round short staves4 ,we visited a weaver's shop1 and were shown some hand-woven silk saris1 brocaded with silver thread1 the silver being turned into gold by some colouring process4 ,a dress of ten yards can be bought of this beautiful material for #bd rupees4 ,red and purple are the principal colours1 and these1 with the gold thread woven in border designs of elephants1 horses and peacocks1 have a very gorgeous effect4 ,european influence seems to have declined in ,tanjore1 although there are numerous ,christian missions about4 ,what strikes the unprejudiced spectator is the extreme unsuitability of any modern western type of ,protestant ,christianity1 with all that it involves to the native mind1 to say nothing of climate and habit4 ,western influence1 it is true1 asserts itself to the eye1 at least1 in the form of an ugly clock tower1 and we passed 8,the ,tanjore ,union ,club10 where we saw native gentlemen in their cool1 white1 loose clothing playing lawn tennis in a well laid-out court4 ,but the life of the mass of the people goes on unchanged as it has done for ages4 ,in driving through the town we saw many little white-washed temples among the native houses1 their richly carved pagodas rising above the low brown tiled roofs4 ,at the doors are quaint paintings of elephants or tigers1 and the white walls of the shops and dwellings are frequently ornamented in the same way with curious figures1 among which occurs not unfrequently the ,english soldier with a dragoon's helmet and jack-boots4 ,outside a liquor shop ,i saw1 painted rather boldly in red outline1 a ,european lady and gentleman refreshing themselves with wine-glasses in their hands4 ,the lady's costume reproduced the rather fussy fashion of twenty-five or thirty years ago1 the frills and furbelows quite carefully worked out with the ,indian love of detail1 but somehow the general effect was rather ,elizabethan than ,victorian4 ,in passing along one of the streets we heard a sound of tom-toms1 and presently saw approaching on a zebu cart a large theatrical poster painted on the outer sides of two large boards leaning together1 tent-wise1 on the cart4 ,these bore announcements in ,hindustani and ,arabic1 with pictures of exciting scenes--,rajahs flourishing scimitars over people1 and so forth4 ,natives walked alongside the cart distributing pink bills of the performances printed in ,arabic1 while the tom-toms attracted attention to the forthcoming show4 ,in the evening we drove to the theatre1 accompanied by our bearer4 ,we reached an open ground outside the town2 it was rather dark1 but we saw a row of lights in front of us1 and heard the sound of tom-toms4 ,the old horse jibbed and would not go further1 so we left the carriage1 and ,moonsawmy conducted us to some temporary structures of matting and bamboo1 where tickets were sold4 ,one rupee secured a chair in the front row4 ,the theatre was a large1 tent-like structure1 with plastered piers supporting a roof of matting4 ,the floor was of earth1 the common ground1 in fact1 upon which the back rows squatted4 ,the stage was also of earth1 raised about three or four feet1 the front being painted in broad red and white vertical stripes4 ,the footlights were ordinary oil lamps1 clustered in groups4 ,the audience was entirely native 7besides ourselves1 who were the only ,europeans present74 ,some sat close up alongside the stage on raised steps of earth4 ,dark draperies hung at the sides of the proscenium1 and there was a coarsely-painted drop scene1 of the kind familiar in third-rate provincial theatres and music-halls at home4 ,illustration3 ,,tanjore--,,native ,,theatre--,,house ,,full4 ,,performance ,,from #i ,p4,m4 ,,till #b ,a4,m4--,,but ,,we ,,didn',t ,,stop ,,to ,,see ,,it ,,through ,the first scene apparently represented a suburban street in the ,european quarter of an ,indian town2 at least there was a square towered church in it1 ugly enough1 although some high-pitched gables rather suggested suburban ,england4 ,a road in very acute perspective ran through the centre of the scene1 which might1 after all1 have been bought from some ,european travelling theatre4 ,the curtain raiser was of a sort of operatic1 conventional courtship motive1 and consisted of a musical dialogue between a young lady and gentleman of uncertain country1 costume1 and period4 ,the girl was badly dressed in a white muslin frock1 with a little red silk waistband1 and a tinsel coronet or tiara on her head4 ,she kept her eyes on the ground the whole time1 and moved stiffly and shyly2 her action1 as well as that of the gentleman1 being rather suggestive of marionettes4 ,the lady began by singing1 each strophe or couplet being repeated or answered by an antistrophe from a chorus concealed behind the scenes1 to the accompaniment of tom-toms4 ,the little wooer presently appeared 7also a girl71 dressed in a cap of tinsel1 a tunic of black velvet trimmed with silver tinsel1 and breeches of the same1 with brown hose or boots4 ,he also began singing strophes1 which were responded to or repeated by the chorus1 and the lady replied in the same way4 ,whenever the lover made any advances the lady repelled them1 and1 after each of her sung speeches1 crossed over to the opposite side of the stage1 the lover doing the same4 ,after a long course of this monotonous question and answer1 sing-song business1 they finally came to terms1 and stood singing together1 the lover with his arm round the lady's shoulders4 ,a harmonium1 playing at the wings1 assisted the tom-toms4 ,the pice de resistance next began4 ,the first scene was a room of state in a ,rajah's palace4 ,the ,rajah and his grand vizier1 and an old priest or soothsayer in a turban and ,indian dress1 were the characters4 ,the ,rajah was a white man1 of a rather ,irish cast of countenance4 ,he was dressed in black and silver1 having wonderful silver spangles in circular patches as big as dinner plates down the front of his trousers4 ,he wore a sabre at his side1 and he was seated on a throne mounted on several steps1 and each step was decorated by a large globe of silvered ,bohemian glass4 ,the vizier was attired in a similar way1 but not quite so gorgeous as the king4 ,from our bearer's interpretation it appeared that the ,rajah1 or king1 who commenced chanting in a most doleful and monotonous way1 was in trouble for want of an heir to the throne1 and consulted the turbaned old gentleman about it1 who gave his advice at considerable length4 ,the next scene showed the interior of a temple2 an image of the sacred bull was there1 and a black man1 clad only in a waist cloth1 was officiating1 apparently as priest4 ,he was also evidently regarded as a comic actor by the audience1 and it was rather curious to observe that his obvious burlesque of some native religious observances were received with laughter4 ,he seemed to put the ,rajah1 the vizier1 and the soothsayer1 who now entered1 through their religious paces1 waving a brush over them and putting garlands round their necks1 uttering curious gibberish the while1 with extravagant action1 which seemed vastly to amuse the audience4 ,the next scene showed the ,rajah seated again in his palace1 and to him entered a troop of zenanas to announce the joyful news of the birth of an heir2 but after they had departed with many salaams1 something seemed to go wrong1 and the ,rajah began his doleful plaint again4 ,the soothsayer and the vizier were again consulted1 and both had a good deal to say1 but matters did not seem to mend much1 and the scene promising to be interminably long1 we felt we had had about as much of the drama as we could do with1 and hearing1 moreover1 that the performance would continue until #b ,a4,m41 having commenced at nine1 we left ,moonsawmy to sit it out1 after he had found us our carriage4 ,the next day we had another drive through the city and its surroundings1 reaching a pleasant region of palm-groves1 and lakes where buffaloes were enjoying a bath4 ,they lie in the water quite deeply1 with often only their heads out or the ridges of their backs showing4 ,at the bungalow various native pedlars and travelling merchants came up with their bundles1 and1 as we sat under the verandah1 they would untie these and spread out their wares before us4 ,these were generally new silver and copper repouss dishes and bowls1 samples of the craft of the ,tanjore district1 but not good1 being vulgar and mechanical in workmanship1 although repeating traditional patterns and representations of the chief deities of the ,hindu pantheon4 ,some of these were embossed in silver1 or rather were partly silvered over the copper1 leaving bright copper in parts1 but they had rather a flashy and tasteless appearance4 ,the best things were the small antique bronzes and brass objects--bulls1 horses1 birds1 peacocks1 lamps1 and curious shaped vessels1 and many of these were highly interesting4 ,a pair of bronze stirrups ,i acquired were charmingly designed1 and showed delicate design and workmanship4 ,in the town they make a kind of brass standard lamp1 in various sizes1 having a moulded stem supporting a shallow vessel for the oil1 with niches from four inches1 the brass image of a cock is usually placed at the top as a sort of finial4 ,the parts are made to unscrew like the well-known antique ,roman lamp which1 in general design and structure1 this ,tanjore lamp strongly recalled4 ,some1 indeed1 were terminated by ring handles just like the ,roman ones4 ,we had been fairly comfortable at the ,dak bungalow1 and the two brothers who kept it were most anxious to please4 ,the cooking was unusually good1 and the place was certainly very quiet4 ,the windows had no glass1 but were closed with ,venetian shutters 7which did not always act1 however1 satisfactorily74 ,the floors were covered with ,india matting1 and the beds were furnished with mosquito nets4 ,the meals were nicely served1 and the table always decked with flowers4 ,the thermometer in our rooms registered usually about #ge degrees1 whereas at ,madras it went up to #hj degrees4 ,water was not carried here in goat-skins as in ,bombay and the ,north-,west and ,central ,provinces1 but in large earthen jars4 ,a man would carry one in each hand1 or slung by strings from a stick over the shoulder4 ,there was a fine young native who watered the garden in front of our bungalow--he had a splendid figure1 and was almost the colour of ebony4 ,i tried to get hold of him to get a study from him1 but somehow he was not to be found when the time came1 and another very inferior specimen was offered in his stead4 ,we left ,tanjore on the evening of ,february #aa for ,trichinopoly4 ,it is only a two hours' journey by the railway1 and we arrived quite punctually about #h4cj4 ,it was too dark to see much of the country1 or get anything but a vague idea of the place1 especially when under the cover of an ox tonga1 two of which vehicles conveyed us and our baggage to the travellers' bungalow about a mile off1 the little zebus trotting along at a brisk pace as fast as ponies1 and much better conditioned than any tonga ponies we saw in ,india4 ,at the bungalow we found an ,english lady and gentleman1 a newly arrived official and his wife1 who had not yet got a house--who were then dining by candle light on the verandah--in possession of the best room1 and had to make the best of it in a small side room1 poorly furnished1 and with no mosquito nets4 ,we got some soda and milk and turned in1 but1 alas1 the beds were hard as nails and the mosquitoes troublesome and strong on the wing1 while the temperature went up to #hj degrees again6 ,illustration3 ,,trichinopoly--,,ox ,,tonga--,,vita ,,brevis6 ,after breakfast the next morning we got a carriage 7which was a considerable improvement both as to vehicle and horse to the one at ,tanjore71 and drove towards the fort1 which stands conspicuously on a bold rock rising abruptly from the plain4 ,passing through the native bazaar we crossed over a long bridge1 which spanned a very broad river thronged with bathers1 and people washing clothes1 and watering cattle1 all busy in the stream which was quite shallow1 not more than waist high4 ,this bridge had been designed and built by an ,english engineer1 somewhere in the forties4 ,it was of red sandstone1 and our driver pointed out a stone in the coping inscribed to certain ,english officers who served under ,clive1 and helped to lay 8the foundations of the ,british ,empire in ,india0 in #agej-d4 ,at about two miles from ,trichinopoly we came to the great ,temple of ,seringham4 ,thatched native huts1 forming a sort of bazaar1 led up to and were clustered about the great gates1 which resembled the entrance to the ,temple of ,tanjore4 ,the height of the gateways were very great in proportion to their width4 ,the great pagodas piled over them were carved with the greatest richness and intricacy of detail1 and covered with the figures of gods and imagery of all kinds1 surmounted by the curious rounded long barrel-like cresting1 which is so characteristic of ,hindu temple-architecture4 ,the sculptured or modelled work here was all coloured1 but many of the figures were said to be in stucco4 ,i think we passed through three of these gateways before we reached the final one leading into the court1 with a many columned pavilion in the centre1 having a painted ceiling in which the ,hindu gods figured4 ,the great ,temple of ,seringham is sacred to ,vishnu1 whose image appears very frequently4 ,opposite to this central pavilion is a colonnade having a frieze of carved and coloured figures under a cresting1 ,vishnu being in the centre4 ,this seemed to be the ,hindu equivalent for a sculptured pediment4 ,the effect of the thickly clustered columns of white-washed stone supporting this band of rich carving and colour was very striking1 the sharp light and shade of noontide throwing the front into strong relief1 and through the aisles formed by the columns we could see another lighted court beyond4 ,the main passage through was lined by the little stalls of a bazaar1 grouped at the bases of the columns1 where mementoes in the shape of small tin pictures heightened with coloured lacquer were stamped in relief with representations of ,vishnu and his goddess1 bead rosaries and necklaces1 and jewellery were also sold1 and little silk bags embroidered with portraits of the same deities4 ,as we stood facing the second court1 the sacred elephant of the temple came up1 his forehead bearing the mark of ,vishnu1 painted large in red and white4 ,it was amusing to see the animal pick up a two-anna piece from the ground1 and pass it over its head to its keeper and driver seated on its neck4 ,another younger and smaller elephant soon joined the other1 and this one had beautiful tusks which his larger companion was without4 ,this one1 too1 skilfully picked up the small coins in the same way1 fumbling with the sensitive finger-like point of his trunk to get hold of them in the crannies of the pavement4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,sacred ,,elephants ,,of ,,seringham--,,securing ,,two-,,anna ,,pieces6 ,we then1 passing across this second court1 entered the ,hall of a ,thousand ,columns--a sort of architectural forest4 ,before this is reached1 however1 there is a smaller hall which has a very remarkable range of carved columns--the most extraordinary carved stone work in ,southern ,india4 ,they are strictly speaking rather columnar brackets1 bracketed columns or corbels resting on bases1 and they represent warriors on horses spearing lions and tigers4 ,the chief feature in each is the rearing horse1 which with its rider and lance1 and smaller figures below1 and the attacking tiger1 or1 sometimes1 elephant1 form a connected group cut out of a single block of stone4 ,these sculptures have so barbaric and antique an appearance that it seems surprising they should only date from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries together with the whole of the temple buildings4 ,a curious effect is given to the interior of some of the temples here by the practice of whitewashing the pillars and walls1 and leaving the carved figures untouched in the stone1 which gives them by contrast an unusually swarthy appearance4 ,returning1 we had a view of the ,rock of ,trichinopoly with the old fort and temple on the summit4 ,this syenite rock crops out in various places in this district1 but not often rising much above the ground1 but only emerging here and there from the earth in a manner rather suggestive of the backs of tortoises4 ,saw a mongoose at the roadside which soon crept out of sight and hid in the low brushwood at our approach4 ,trichinopoly is well wooded1 but is not particularly picturesque1 though the scattered tiled or thatched bungalows look pretty enough in their gardens1 but on the whole it gives one the impression of rather a straggling place4 ,there was a deserted looking mission church with a few tombstones about it quite near our bungalow1 trying to look like an ,english village church1 but not succeeding4 ,leipzig ,lutherans and ,wesleyan ,methodists are said to have 8missions0 here1 as well as the ,church of ,england4 ,these missionaries seem to plant their stations wherever there are important ,hindu temples4 ,the wonder is that the natives are so tolerant4 ,madura was our next destination1 and we were not sorry to get away from our stifling little barn of a room at the bungalow1 leaving in the early morning about daybreak for the #e4de ,madras mail4 ,the country was flat at first1 with1 again1 large sheets of water along the sides of the line1 but as we passed from the ,trichinopoly district to the ,madura district we entered a mountainous region1 thickly wooded4 ,i noted many cedar trees1 and a kind of cactus growing high with tall tree-like stem4 ,it was an interesting and varied country the rest of the way4 ,the crops were chiefly paddy and castor oil plant4 ,one station had the extraordinary name of ,ammayanayakanur1 and we were soon in the tobacco-growing district1 passing ,dindigul with a rock and an old fort upon it1 not unlike ,trichinopoly in character4 ,cigars of the district were offered at the station1 but we saw no tobacco crops near the line4 ,we reached ,madura about noon1 in time for tiffin1 and engaged a room at the station1 which was a great improvement as to beds and general appointments on our recent bungalow experiences4 ,the sleeping-rooms were built out on a separate wing which appeared to be new4 ,they opened on to a corridor which led to a large open terrace1 and were in charge of a ,eurasian woman4 ,there was also a good dining-room at the station4 ,it was tremendously hot1 however1 and we could not very well move out until after #d o'clock1 when having engaged a guide we drove out to see the great temple4 ,our bearer objected strongly to the guide and there was some friction between them1 but as native servants were prohibited from entering the temples1 and were always stopped at the gates1 ,moonsawmy could not show cause why the guide was not necessary1 and we found him very intelligent1 speaking ,english well1 and having the history of the place at his fingers' ends4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,rivals4 ,,our ,,moonsawmy ,,and ,,the ,,madura ,,guide ,the ,madura temple is so remarkable and is on such a scale that ,i was anxious to get all the information about it ,i could4 ,mr ,pillai 7the guide7 was very useful and well-informed1 and he gave us many interesting stories and details about the sculptured figures and paintings4 ,there are four great pagoda-gates1 richly carved and painted1 of the same type but larger than those at ,tanjore and ,trichinopoly4 ,evidently the ,hindus had no scruples about colouring their sculpture1 and the colouring has been renewed from time to time4 ,the prevailing tints used are turquoise blue1 vermilion1 yellow1 white1 and green4 ,one of the gates the guide pointed out was granite up to the first story1 and the figures were in stucco above4 ,the four gates mentioned are connected by a high wall1 on the crest of which occur at intervals the image of ,siva 7to whom the temple is dedicated7 seated between two bulls1 the bulls being placed upon the top of the wall1 and the image of the ,god in a sort of arched recess1 sunk into it a little below4 ,the upper part of the wall is uncoloured1 but a sort of high dado is carried along it below1 painted in broad vertical stripes of red and white which seems a favourite scheme of decoration in ,southern ,india4 ,the wall encloses a broad paved court1 and inside this is another wall with gates1 through which the various temples and columned halls are entered4 ,in the centre of all is the sacred tank1 a large pool of water surrounded by steps1 and an arcade of white columns4 ,as we approached this1 we saw a crowd of natives1 men and women1 seated on the paved margin of the tank along one side and between the columns listening to a priest who was preaching with much earnestness4 ,our guide said he was translating or expounding 7one did not know with what gloss7 passages from the sanskrit text of the sacred books which another priest previously read in the original4 ,the scene was a picturesque one4 ,the various colours of the people's dresses1 in which dark red prevailed1 showed against the white wall and columns1 and the brown faces made a harmonious scheme of colour4 ,the wall along the upper part was painted with a series of histories of ,siva and his incarnations4 ,these picture-stories were arranged in tiers or friezes1 about four or five deep1 one above the other1 and running the entire length of the wall behind the colonade1 each side the tank4 ,these paintings were highly interesting1 painted probably with the main object of making the stories intelligible to the people1 they were quite decorative1 full of detail1 and forming a rather closely filled and dark pattern of colour1 having the effect of a woven hanging4 ,one of the painted legends treated of a certain ,maharajah who appears to have persecuted the early ,jain seceders1 much as the ,roman emperor treated the early ,christians1 with great ferocity1 finally impaling them on stakes1 and thus they were painted all of a row6 ,the ,jain sect was at first apparently regarded as a schism1 and the ,jains as heretics or apostates falling away from the pure ,hindu worship of ,siva4 ,one seems here1 in this great ,temple of ,madura1 to get back to the most ancient type of religion1 and one which1 after all1 allowing for evolution in our ideas1 seems the most lasting--,nature worship4 ,the ,hindus in their pantheon include and embrace everything1 at least in their own universe1 which is their own country1 and to them1 truly1 8nothing is common or unclean40 ,their deities incarnate themselves in all sorts of forms4 ,siva1 according to one legend1 for instance1 even taking the form of a wild sow1 and suckling the young of the mother which had been slain by the hunters4 ,the second son of ,siva rides upon a peacock1 the representative bird of ,india4 ,the ,zebu bull is sacred to ,siva1 and in the ,lingam is symbolised and revered the male and female principle of generation1 the root and source of all life on the earth4 ,in one place in the temple1 between two of the columns1 was a group of the nine planets personified and placed around the sun--a golden sphere in the centre4 ,for each of these embodied planets might be found a corresponding personality among the deities of the classical world4 ,another striking thing about the ,madura temple is the force of realization and expression in the figure sculpture4 ,life-sized figures of different gods and demons are carved in stone in front of the columns in many of the halls of the temple1 the columns themselves frequently white-washed1 while the figures are left in the untouched stone and look in contrast like bronze figures1 their elaborate detail and undercutting emphasizing this suggestion4 ,indeed1 the variety of character1 invention1 as well as the vigour and freedom1 governed by a certain formalism1 of some of this sculpture at its best reminds one of ,european gothic sculpture in the ,middle ,ages1 not only in its symbolical and legendary aspect1 but also its all embracing character and sympathy with the life of the people4 ,the type of the ,hindu mother appears1 for instance1 in one of the best of the figures carrying her child on her hip1 just as the native women do to this day1 while a suckling infant is suspended at her breast4 ,mockery1 if not humour1 too1 seems to come out here and there sometimes1 as in the dancing figure of a mocking musician playing on his pipes4 ,a frequent subject is ,siva presenting his sister in marriage to ,vishnu1 and there are besides a number of curious legends connected with the sculptures here1 which are very various1 and1 of course1 not unfrequently become grotesque or monstrous under the influence of the ,hindu religious symbolic ideas and the ,hindu inventiveness2 but one feels that here is a genuine piece of ancient life1 expressed in the forms of ,hindu art--frank nature worship in full vigour of life1 and a dominant influence in the lives of millions of people4 ,in the sacred tank the people were constantly bathing and washing their clothes4 ,the water never seems to be changed and is perfectly green in colour4 ,our guide said it remained pure and ordered a man to show its quality by dipping his hands in and holding a small quantity in them1 cupwise4 ,the water1 however1 was1 even in this small quantity1 quite green1 although a clear green4 ,it must have been full of vegetable matter1 one would think4 ,it reminded us of what the ,maharajah's secretary had said of the ,ganges water at ,benares4 ,the colouring of the interior of the ,temple in parts recalled the mural decoration of ancient ,egypt in its use of simple primary colours--red1 green1 white1 and yellow prevailing4 ,the lotus flower1 too1 was constantly introduced1 treated as a rosette upon the ceilings4 ,some of the pillared halls were1 however1 left in plain stonework1 or simply whitewashed4 ,one long hall we entered looked very impressive in the dim light1 a single ray from the sun penetrating1 and making a spot of intense light upon the floor4 ,we saw a gilded copper dome1 and a golden flag staff1 and our guide pointed out the great doors behind which the festival cars were kept1 and we saw1 too1 wonderfully decorated life-sized images of elephants and horses which formed part of the show on great occasions4 ,there were two black and two white elephants1 standing between the columns1 under rather tawdry and tinselly canopies1 and other furniture of the festivals2 one large hanging bearing the words of welcome to the ,prince and ,princess of ,wales1 which must have been used for the occasion of their visit4 ,various donors of parts of the temple were pointed out1 in effigy4 ,the ,czar of ,russia appeared 7not however in person7 as the donor of certain shrines and a brass canopy or arch which held many lamps4 ,illustration3 ,,sacred ,,tank ,,of ,,the ,,great ,,temple1 ,,madura ,the practice of drawing the image of the god on festival days through the streets on great cars seems general at all the chief temples in ,southern ,india1 and not confined to ,juggernath4 ,at ,seringham we saw the great car on which the image of ,siva was drawn on such occasions1 and also the thick cables--like ship's cables--which were used for the purpose--multitudes of men hauling the car out of the temple and along the streets by these means4 ,here1 too1 at ,madura the god ,siva is represented seated upon his car which is treated as a kind of throne1 the wheels and the horses sculptured at the sides in a symbolic sort of way4 ,in some of the painted histories on the walls1 ,siva is shown in a winged car 7suggesting his rapid flight and omnipresence1 perhaps7 and1 presumably1 his image is drawn out on a car at festivals to keep his presence and moving influence vividly in the minds of his worshippers4 ,it was curious to see the bazaars in the corridors and outer courts of the temple4 ,rows of stalls1 where all sorts of miscellaneous things were sold--brass ware1 pottery1 woven stuffs1 beads1 and all kinds of knick-knacks and toys4 ,some of the sellers squat on the pavement and spread out their goods before them4 ,the temple and its courts is a great resort of the people1 in fact4 ,pilgrims lie down and sleep near its shrines1 and the children play freely between its pillars4 ,bats flutter in and out of the crevices of the ceilings1 or hang in little black clusters up aloft in their recesses4 ,in sketching at the sacred tank a very large crowd of natives gradually collected behind me1 and on each side1 and it was as much as the guide could do to keep them from closing in1 and completely surrounding me4 ,some ,american visitors to the temple whom we met afterwards in ,ceylon said that1 seeing this vast concourse pressing round the tank1 they thought it was a suicide6 ,travellers usually take snap-shots with hand cameras1 and ,i imagine that a sketcher in colours is comparatively rare4 ,the crowd1 however1 were quite quiet4 ,the guide was encouraging1 and remarked when ,i had finished that it was 8better than a photograph40 ,another afternoon we drove out through the city and some three miles beyond to see the 8,teppa ,tank0--a large sheet of water1 enclosed by a low wall painted in red and white stripes1 with steps to the water and carved bulls decorating the balustrades4 ,on an island in the centre of the tank rose the pagoda of a temple1 in stucco1 and four small pagodas at the four corners of the garden-island--a mass of foliage amid which the pagodas shone1 ivory-white in the sunshine4 ,near this tank on the roadside was another temple sacred to a goddess who was the object of solicitude in the case of people desiring offspring1 and to whom votive offerings of cradles were made by the devotees1 as well as doll-like images of children made of baked clay and painted4 ,the flat roof of this temple was peopled with a crowd of these grotesque images1 and the carriage boy was sent to fetch one for our inspection4 ,then we drove on to where grew a gigantic ,banyan tree--eighty feet in girth1 and having quite a small forest around its central vast trunk of offshoots--new trees which had rooted themselves in the earth from the parent branches4 ,it was rather suggestive of a many pillared sylvan temple4 ,after this we reached the ,palace of ,tiramala1 which stood at the head of a large village--an imposing structure in stucco1 mostly yellow washed4 ,the enormous columns of the court looked out of proportion to the arches they supported1 which were of a rather debased ,mogul type1 heavy with very elaborate grotesque ornamentation in stucco in the spandrils and on the ceilings1 many of which had as a central device a large lotus flower formally treated as a rosette1 and in some instances elaborately painted4 ,the effect of the whole building was rather weird1 and suggested a rather queer architectural nightmare1 in which massive ,norman cathedral piers had swallowed ,roman ,doric ones1 or vice versa1 and a ,hindu modeller had broken up some ,mogul arches1 and fastened them together again with grotesque elephants and dragons' teeth4 ,the palace was now used as law courts1 and it was curious to see two modern oil portraits of two neat ,english lawyers hanging on the walls of these vast columned halls4 ,we next visited a native shop in the village bazaar where the fine muslins and silks of the district were made and sold4 ,we were duly seated in chairs and fanned by boys1 while an active brown member of the firm unfolded tempting saris1 pugarees1 and silk stuffs1 some beautifully brocaded with gold thread1 and of course we possessed ourselves of a few specimens4 ,in this district there is a thriving native silk industry1 hand-weaving1 also dyeing1 and the ingenious native craft of making patterns on cottons and muslins by tying and dipping4 ,hanks of cotton and silk may be seen hung out over bamboo poles placed horizontally1 and ox-carts roll by filled with the dyed skeins4 ,there is a fine dark rich red1 frequently seen in the sari dress of the women1 also a dark purple4 ,the women here generally wear the dark red sari with a narrow border of black2 in some cases the sari is black with a red border4 ,in the village street we saw a little native bride drawn in a carriage4 ,returning to the city in the cool of the evening we stopped at the temple bazaar and bought some zebu bells--curious little pear-shaped brass bells1 each with a different tone1 which are hung round the animals' necks4 ,their foreheads1 too1 are frequently bound with strings of beads1 or shells fixed on leather bands1 and their horns are painted green or red4 ,there is a method of decorating the centres of the dining tables in ,southern ,india which1 ,i think1 we first noticed at the hotel at ,madras1 or at one of the refreshment stations on the ,coromandel coast4 ,it consists in arranging dyed sago seeds in patterns forming a table centre on the white cloth4 ,at the station refreshment room at ,madura there was a more elaborate example done by means of stencils--a border of yellow enclosed a lightly powdered filling1 and an effective outer border was produced by a repeated sprig of a red rose with green leaves4 ,the general effect was that of an embroidered pattern1 but of course it was liable to slight displacements1 and was constantly done afresh1 one of the waiters being the special artist4 ,we left ,madura on the #aeth of ,february for ,tuticorin4 ,illustration3 ,,tuticorin4 ,,departure ,,for ,,colombo4 ,,the ,,last ,,of ,,the ,,kites ,,and ,,crows4 ,the country traversed was flat and plain for the most part1 with cultivated crops of castor oil plants1 paddy1 and corn1 alternating with jungle of brushwood1 but no fine trees4 ,hills were seen in the distance on the right1 and we made several stoppages at short places with very long names4 ,arriving at ,tuticorin about four in the afternoon1 we went on to the beach station1 and got on board a small steam launch or tug in waiting at the jetty1 then we saw the last quarter1 as it were1 of our ,moonsawmy1 and took our leave of him1 after he had had his usual fierce dispute with the coolies1 who certainly never received trade union wages from him4 ,on the whole we were not sorry to get away from the rupee-hunting throng which usually hang about stations and wharves--the kites and crows in pursuit of the traveller1 their prey1 who for the time being1 at least1 now escaped their clutches4 ,tuticorin presented no obvious attractions except the sea1 which we were quite glad to meet again4 ,the launch seemed just large enough to hold the train-load of passengers--,americans1 ,germans1 and ,english with their baggage1 and after about half-an-hour's steam across the harbour we reached the steamer 7the 8,pandua0 of ,glasgow7 and climbed up the gangway to the saloon deck4 ,we secured a rather small but well-appointed berth opening off the saloon1 and were able to enjoy a well-served dinner--food seems generally better on ship-board than on land--at least ,indian land4 ,cargo boats were clinging to the steamer's side1 and1 at sunset1 one by one cast off and hoisted their lateen sails 7like those of an ,arab dhow7 each boat having one about the length of the vessel4 ,the sailors in hoisting up the sail climbed and clung to the rope1 to bring it up with their weight4 ,chanting a curious sort of song the while1 our steamer weighed anchor and started1 and we looked astern and saw the last of ,india fading from view behind the shining wake of the steamer1 and lost in the glow of an orange sunset4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,,notes ,,of ,,ceylon ,the voyage across the straits to ,colombo proved to be wonderfully calm1 which was rather unusual as we understood it was as a rule tempestuous1 and we did not find our cabin nearly so hot as our room at ,madura4 ,we sighted the coast of ,ceylon early in the morning of ,february #af1 and got into harbour at ,colombo about #h ,a4,m4 ,a fleet of fishing boats had previously passed us1 of the curious native rig--a square sail apparently arranged to sail before the wind only4 ,our steamer was soon surrounded by a little fleet of odd shaped outrigger canoes1 some of them mere planks1 paddled by active little darkie boys1 who dived for small silver coins if they could induce the passengers to throw them4 ,these little amphibians seemed as much at home in the water as in their canoes1 and they swam like fishes4 ,our good friend ,mr ,bois sent a messenger on board to meet us and help us through the customs1 having secured us rooms at the ,galle ,face4 ,most things are chargeable under the tariff1 but the traveller pays duty on his own valuation4 ,the steamer did not land its passengers at the quay1 but anchored in the harbour1 and everyone landed in boats4 ,the ,hotel boats1 manned by native oarsmen1 row swiftly to the ,custom ,house1 and often race each other4 ,after passing the customs we got into a little ,victoria and drove straight to the ,galle ,face4 ,illustration3 ,,landing ,,at ,,colombo ,not much can be said for the architectural beauty of ,colombo1 the buildings being1 generally speaking1 of ordinary commercial type4 ,the ,grand ,oriental ,hotel1 or ,g4,o4,h4 as it is commonly called1 is a big pile near the harbour1 and has an arcade surrounding the ground story1 like most of the stores1 and continuous balconies above1 partitioned off according to the rooms which open on to them4 ,here and there there is a relic of the ,dutch occupation in some of the frontages with round recessed arches and pilasters4 ,the ,governor's house1 as usual1 is the most attractive looking building1 half hidden amidst masses of palms and other trees4 ,a rather bold clock tower faces a long esplanade1 which extends for nearly half a mile along the sea front1 at the end of which is situated the ,galle ,face ,hotel1 with its cluster of slender-stemmed cocoa palms leaning over the sea4 ,here1 the long ocean breakers rolling in1 the turquoise waves melting into dazzling foam1 seen through the palm trees has an enchanting effect1 both in the sunlight and the moonlight4 ,there was a young crescent at night--seen1 as only seen in the ,east1 on its back--floating like a fairy boat1 and casting a mysterious light over the dark ocean1 the waving palms overhead and the sound of the breaking waves adding to the wonderful charm of the scene4 ,jin-rickshaws were in great request1 but the supply seemed fully equal to the demand1 and the esplanade was always full of the trotting boys drawing white clad ,europeans in topis up and down the terra-cotta coloured road4 ,there was a wide1 green strip extending along the drive1 and on the other side of the suburbs of ,colombo extended northwards1 chiefly native houses1 and bungalows of ,european residents often enclosed in gardens and hidden in ample foliage of trees4 ,illustration3 ,,under ,,the ,,palms ,,at ,,the ,,galle ,,face1 ,,ceylon ,the hotel was served by an army of ,cingalese waiters who wore their hair much like the southern ,indians--long1 like a woman's1 and done up in a knot at the back1 their peculiar distinction1 however1 being a semicircular comb of tortoise-shell worn like a coronet on the top of the head1 but with the open points in front4 ,otherwise their costume consisted of a close white skirt1 and a neat white jacket with green facings4 ,their feet were always bare1 like the ,indian boys4 ,illustration3 ,,common ,,objects ,,of ,,colombo4 7,,jin-,,rickshawus ,,bipedes7 ,there was a band at dinner1 served in a vast white hall1 and after1 on the terrace1 when the guests would sit out among the palms lighted up by jewels of electric light4 ,the white breakers foaming under the moon1 the shadowy waving palms1 the sky flashing with sheet lightning1 the brilliantly lighted hotel1 and the white figures flitting about 8among the guests star-scattered on the grass10 all contributed to a striking stage effect4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,cingalese ,,waiter ,the hotel was certainly spacious and well appointed1 having large cool corridors and rooms to sit in--comparatively cool that is to say1 and without the gloom of so many of the ,indian hotels4 ,in the matter of food1 cookery1 and the service too1 it was a great improvement on the ,peninsula4 ,there were electric fans everywhere in motion1 and we could always turn one on in our room--which was normally an oven4 ,the draft from these fans1 however1 are said to be apt to give people chills1 and some caution in their use in bedrooms is necessary4 ,we visited our friends in their charming house--one of the older style of ,colombo dwellings1 in a delightful garden where afternoon tea was served on a pleasant lawn shaded by fine trees1 among which we recognised the forest flame1 which with its wonderful scarlet blossoms had struck us on the way to ,darjeeling1 though not then in flower here4 ,another day ,mr ,bois took us out for a drive in his motor all around ,colombo and its neighbourhood4 ,we went through the town and along by the dry dock1 and through the native quarter 7,zeppa or ,teppa7 and away through narrow lanes shaded by cocoa palms1 plantains1 banyans1 mangoes and other trees growing with tropical luxuriance each side the way1 in plantations1 and around the bungalows4 ,the motor seemed a strange vehicle in the midst of the primitive life of the ,cingalese2 and it is said that extremes meet1 and certainly a motor and a primitive ox-wagon represent about the greatest contrast in means of locomotion and transport that one can well imagine4 ,it was rather wonderful that we escaped a collision sometimes meeting such vehicles in the narrow lanes1 or that we avoided running over stray chickens or dogs--the latter kind always resenting the motor and imperilling their lives by running and barking in close proximity with the enemy4 ,the natives we met walking1 too1 were by no means alert in getting out of the way1 and did not seem to realise the danger4 ,illustration3 ,,in ,,ceylon--,,extremes ,,meet--,,the ,,motor ,,and ,,the ,,ox-,,cart ,we passed mission houses and churches of all sorts1 and of every shade of theological colour--,wesleyans1 ,roman ,catholics1 and ,salvation ,army--all the plagues of sectarian ,christianity which afflict humanity in ,europe1 alas6 ,our friend said1 propos of some remarks of mine about the ignorance and indifference of missionaries as to native religions and their natural suitability to the races1 and their habits of life and the climates where they are found1 that he had cautioned missionaries against running down the native religion4 ,this in ,ceylon1 is mainly ,buddhist 7and ,buddha surely discovered something analogous to ,christian ethics1 if not superior1 long before ,christ74 ,the ,tamils are ,buddhists1 but there are some ,hindus and ,mohammedans in ,ceylon1 and even pure ,buddhism is mingled in some curious way with a primitive devil-worship4 ,we saw the golf links and a golf club house--quite la ,anglaise--on a rising ground and bare of trees1 for a wonder in ,ceylon4 ,it appeared that these links occupied the site of a farm which did not succeed4 ,then we saw the river1 where an engineer's iron bridge had taken the place of a former bridge of boats4 ,colombo must have largely lost its primitive and ,dutch character when the old ,fort was destroyed4 ,this has been replaced by terribly ugly ,barrack buildings1 and the town is rapidly becoming a modern commercial centre1 big warehouses and universal provider's stores are rising up after the ,european or ,american type4 ,the native character1 however1 manifests itself still1 peeping out here and there1 especially in the older shops1 and there is more native costume to be seen than one had imagined4 ,the country ox-cart is a striking object with its huge tilt of matting projecting forward and backward like a hood1 the single zebu by which it is usually drawn appearing small for the size of the vehicle4 ,we did not see many native women about1 but those we did see wore the native dress1 consisting of a white bodice1 cut round and rather low in the neck1 with a lace edging2 a necklace and earrings1 and the narrow skirt wrapped about the lower half of the figure to the feet generally printed with a pattern1 or chequered1 similar to that worn by the men4 ,we drove round by the ,cinnamon gardens1 and rested at a club house--a mixed ,european ,club--a pleasant house with a large and well-kept croquet lawn in front where ladies were playing4 ,we sat a while1 after being refreshed and making some new acquaintances1 we returned in the motor to our hotel4 ,we had thunder and lightning at night4 ,the lightning flashing almost incessantly all over the heavens1 but mostly from great clouds rolling up from the north and east4 ,while sitting at tea in the hall of the ,galle ,face one afternoon we met an old friend in the person of ,mr ,cyril ,holman ,hunt1 the son of the famous pre-,raphaelite painter1 who had been a planter for some years1 first in ,ceylon and afterwards in the ,straits1 from which he had just arrived4 ,so that it was quite a chance our meeting1 as he was not even staying at the same hotel4 ,the same evening the officers of the ,italian warship ,marco ,polo were entertained at dinner at the ,galle ,face1 and their band played selections afterwards4 ,the scene in the hall of a ,colombo hotel is always busy1 but in a different way to a ,european hostelry--one might almost say it was feverish haste in the midst of languid indolence--a ballet of energetic action before a crowd of unconcerned spectators4 ,while some are in the fuss of departure or arrival1 rows of enervated travellers lounge in wicker chairs1 reading1 chatting1 smoking1 or engaged with tea or cooling drinks1 mostly attired in white2 many of the ladies in delicate summer dresses1 the men in white drill or tussore suits4 ,all nationalities are represented1 the majority ,american1 and mostly people waiting for their steamers outward or homeward4 ,most visitors to ,ceylon make a trip to ,kandy1 and one morning early saw us on our way thither4 ,the railway carriages are good and comfortable1 but they do not allow the stacking of hand luggage in them as they do to such an extent on the ,indian railways4 ,the train passed through a very rich and fruitful-looking country1 where the paddy crops in different stages--under water1 green and ripe or being reaped and thrashed--reminded us of ,india4 ,the fields were generally surrounded by groves of plantains and palms4 ,the vegetation being most luxuriant everywhere3 banyans1 mangoes1 and flowering trees of different kinds including spireas and the 8forest flame0 we saw at ,darjeeling2 tangled masses of creepers hanging from the boughs1 and often covering the whole tree4 ,several rivers were crossed the red earth showing on their banks1 and the water generally tinged with the same4 ,we reached ,kandy about #aa4ae1 the train ascending to this place about #ddjj feet4 ,the line curving up the slopes so that we could frequently see the engine and forepart of the train rounding the loop in front of us4 ,we could only secure a room for one night at the hotel 7the ,queen's71 so that we had to make the most of our time4 ,accordingly1 after tiffin1 we started in a carriage for what the hotel people prosaically called 8,no4 #b4 drive0 7674 ,skirting the large tank or lake in front of the hotel1 which has a solid stone palisading around it cut into points and pierced1 we ascended a steep road1 winding up the hills through lovely woodlands1 at every turn presenting fine mountainous and panoramic views of the country4 ,beautiful clusters of bamboo of enormous size occurred frequently1 the stems very thick and of an oxidized bronze colour1 varying from dark to light4 ,another kind had bright golden coloured stems1 and a lighter1 more feathery foliage4 ,cocoa palms1 plantains1 and mangoes were abundant1 also cinnamon plants4 ,a native boy offered us a cocoa bean pod1 and a spray of cinnamon--a pretty tree with a tassel-like flower4 ,there were also large trees bearing massive pendulous fruits1 which grow directly out of the trunk suspended on very short stalks in clusters of two and three4 ,this fruit was called 8,jack fruit40 ,it looked like a sort of gigantic walnut1 and was covered with a soft green velvety kind of rind4 ,the leaves of this tree was small and poplar-like in shape4 ,the brilliant scarlet lily-like bloom of a dark leaved shrub was often seen1 the flower having long stamens hanging out like a tassel4 ,the various drives which had been made over the hills and through these great woods were apparently named after different governors' wives4 ,there was ,lady ,longden's drive1 ,lady ,macarthy's1 ,lady ,horton's1 and so on4 ,we sometimes had the impression1 as the carriage followed the gravelled curves of these drives1 that we were approaching some country seat among the hills4 ,the drives1 though well planned for points of view1 and well kept1 were1 perhaps1 a little too suggestive of the landscape gardener1 a little too conscious and laid out to order1 to be thoroughly enjoyable4 ,we should have preferred to see the untouched work of the original designer of ,ceylon scenery4 ,the natural wild country unanglicised--though ,i know ,i should be told that without such roads and clearings one would not be able to see the country at all4 ,we ,british1 somehow1 always seem to carry suburban ideas with us everywhere1 and ,english trimness and neatness even out into the tropical wilderness4 ,we passed neat homes surrounded by smooth tennis and croquet lawns1 as if bits of ,chiselhurst or ,surbiton had been suddenly dumped down in the midst of all this wonderful world of luxuriant growth and unfamiliar trees1 and close to native huts of the most primitive kind4 ,the native roof here1 as at ,darjeeling1 appeared to be either thatch or wooden shingles1 and here1 again1 we were sorry to see corrugated iron creep into use everywhere4 ,the most primval sight we had was perhaps that of the elephants bathing in the river4 ,this was at a spot close to a native village1 where we left our carriage and1 walking through a grove1 came out on the river shore where five or six black elephants--one a large one with fine tusks--were disporting themselves in the water1 in charge of native attendants1 rolling over on their sides and squirting the water over themselves by means of their trunks with the greatest enjoyment4 ,the water was rather thick and reddish in colour from the clay of the banks4 ,on the way back to the hotel we passed the famous ,buddhist ,temple of the ,tooth with its pagoda-like roof1 but it looks but an insignificant building to be the centre of ,buddhistic reverence and tribute4 ,this was a lovely moonlight night1 and the walk by the lake would have been perfect but for the touts and vendors of all sorts of things that you do not want4 ,we left ,kandy the next morning for ,nuwara-,eliya2 our travelling companions were two ,germans from ,berlin1 father and son4 ,the train continued to climb1 the line curving more sharply than before4 ,we saw some fine mountain distances and ,adam's ,peak rising up afar1 and soon entered a vast tea-planted district1 the tea plants often bordering the railway line1 and covering the slopes of the hills which seemed covered with a more or less regular green pattern1 the dark velvety green of the tea plants intersected by the light feathery foliage of young rubber-trees1 planted in regular rows at intervals in some places4 ,the landscape was very clear and every detail sharply defined in the bright sunlight1 with very little suggestion of atmosphere1 except for the mountain distances which were deep blue4 ,illustration3 ,,tea ,,plantation1 ,,ceylon 8,she liked coffee1 and ,i liked tea1 ,and that is the reason we always agree60 ,in the afternoon about four or five o'clock we reached ,nunnoya station1 where we had to change into a narrow-gauge train to finish the last part of the journey to ,nuwara-,eliya4 ,we continued to climb in shorter and more loop-like curves1 being able often to gaze down on the line we had just traversed winding below like a glittering serpent among the wooded hills and tea plantations4 ,tea everywhere1 and not a drop to drink--yet suggesting potentially more than the whole world could consume4 ,something after five found us at ,nuwara-,eliya where we got into a wagonette1 and a good pair of greys brought us through the village to the ,st ,andrews ,hotel1 a very pleasant homelike place in a nice garden and backed by beautiful woods4 ,the original house looked as if it might have been a private residence1 and there was just a touch of ,rydal ,mount about it and its situation1 at the first glance1 but a new wing had been added with a tin-roof1 and there was a golf course in the valley just below4 ,the valley is very beautiful1 with its richly wooded hills and a lake with blue mountainous distance4 ,delicate feathery1 aspen-like trees wave in the soft air1 and there are numbers of firs and cypresses which give an ,italian touch to the landscape1 but no palms4 ,in fact1 the whole character of the country is totally different from ,colombo and ,kandy4 ,the climate1 too1 is much cooler1 the thermometer falling to #dj degrees at night1 or even to frost1 though the sun is hot enough in the middle of the day4 ,there is a native bazaar1 and an ,english quarter with a red club house1 tennis courts1 and a race-course--of course4 ,st ,andrews1 however1 where we were quartered1 was quite away by itself1 and was altogether perhaps the pleasantest place we had stayed at either in ,india or ,ceylon4 ,it was possible1 for one thing1 to walk out without being worried by guides and touts1 or to buy things4 ,the climate was delightful after the enervating heat of ,colombo1 and there being hardly any other guests the quiet of the place was a great relief and very restful4 ,one afternoon we had a walk up the opposite hills1 the track being mostly through tea-plantations1 with forest bits occasionally4 ,the tea tree left to itself apparently grows high on a stem1 having a very striking character and shape1 suggesting almost the stone-pine4 ,the small1 thick-stemmed1 closely-trimmed1 flat-headed dwarf bushes which are its characteristic forms in the tea plantations also have an interesting effect in some situations on the hill-sides1 intersected by wandering paths whereon the dark natives move up and down4 ,the tea-plant has a leaf somewhat of the character of a laurel or orange tree1 and its flower recalls that of the orange4 ,ceylon tea when made is of a beautiful clear orange colour--,i mean when poured from the pot4 ,the ,hagdalla gardens1 founded by the government in #ahfa1 well repay a visit1 and are deeply interesting to anyone interested in the flora of ,ceylon4 ,it is a drive of about six miles2 passing through the native village1 and by the ,english ,club and race-course1 the lake is skirted1 and after that the road takes the character rather of a mountain pass1 and runs along the edge of a deep wooded ravine down which a rocky stream tumbles into falls over boulders4 ,there was just a touch of a sort of ,borrowdale1 translated into ,cingalee1 about this part of the drive4 ,the wild forest which clad the hills each side of the valley was very different in character and colour to anything seen in ,europe1 the trees showed the most lovely tints of varied bronze1 from pale green to copper red4 ,the tea tree was abundant1 and the rhododendron1 which here is totally different in character and general shape to the cultivated shrub-like bushes in ,english gardens4 ,here it is a thick-stemmed tree1 with a rugged bark1 and a bold irregular outline with rather sparse leavage and deep crimson flowers which glow splendidly among the dark metallic green of the leaves4 ,there is a sort of formal grotesqueness about the tree1 too1 which is rather ,chinese4 ,on the way through the ravine1 at a solitary spot below the road1 we saw a ,buddhist shrine4 ,on a little platform surrounded by a rough fence of loose stones1 and facing the road1 was a row of carved images1 in some dark wood1 standing figures of ,buddha4 ,in front of this rude structure we saw a native worshipper prostrating himself on the edge of the road1 and bowing and bending towards the shrine4 ,the ,magdalla gardens are botanic and horticultural gardens laid out with great care and skill on the slope of a mountain4 ,they apparently contain all the varieties of trees and plants indigenous to ,ceylon4 ,tree ferns are there in abundance1 flowering trees of many kinds1 and parasitic plants1 and orchids in great variety1 growing in their natural manner4 ,as one threads the narrow wandering paths it is as if one passed through a thick jungle or tropical forest1 only that the walking is made easy1 and botanical labels here and there1 and signs of gardener's care and labour1 remind one it is a garden4 ,there is a keeper's lodge1 in this ,cingalese paradise1 covered with creepers1 and a formal level parterre in front1 one mass of brilliant floral colour--,african marigolds1 fuchsias1 poppies1 blue centred daisies1 sunflowers1 blue convolvulus1 ,amaryllis1 and white eucharis lilies1 canaryensis1 polyanthus and many more2 some that might be found in ,english gardens and hot-houses1 with other tropical wonders only seen at ,kew4 ,after a ramble here we returned to the carriage1 and drove back through the now burning sun4 ,gorse grows about the links and open common-like ground in the valley at ,nuwara-,eliya1 though the bushes seem to grow rather taller and straighter than they do in ,england4 ,instead of our lords and ladies1 arum lilies grow wild4 ,great clusters of them may be seen by the sides of streams or in marshy places4 ,the woods were delightful to wander in1 and altogether ,nuwara-,eliya might make good claims to be an earthly paradise1 other things being equal4 ,we had taken our passage1 however1 from ,colombo1 and were due to sail for home on the #bnd of ,march4 ,it was now the #bhth of ,february1 and we had to make our way back again1 descending from ,il ,paradiso to a certainly hotter region4 ,the descent by the narrow gauge railway was even more striking than the ascent1 the train passing through luxuriant growths of forest in which tree-ferns1 rhododendrons1 the tea tree1 and what looked like a sort of box tree were abundant4 ,the rubber-trade in ,ceylon is now being added to the tree-trade1 which1 according to our competitive wasteful individualistic system1 has somewhat outgrown its profitable market4 ,one effect of this new development upon the landscape is devastation1 as large tracts of wild forest on the mountain sides are being cleared by burning the natural growth in the first place1 and then removing the stones and boulders which cumber the ground4 ,this process does not add to the beauty of the scenery1 nor can we expect that monotonous plantations will be good substitutes to the eye for the wild beauty and varied and luxuriant vegetation they displace4 ,the ,englishman in ,ceylon seems to think of nothing but profit-making1 however1 like many of his race elsewhere2 and is probably often even unaware of the beauty he destroys for commercial reasons1 and he is always able to import cheap coolie labour from ,india to carry out his schemes4 ,the ,cingalese native it seems is unwilling to work1 or probably has not the physique for heavy field labour1 so he prefers to live the natural life of his country so far as he is allowed by his new masters1 and of course is denounced as a lazy dog4 ,ceylon1 indeed1 one cannot help reflecting must have been a delightful paradise1 if somewhat warm in parts1 for its own people1 before they were interfered with by western civilisation1 with its pushful commerce1 and missions1 bringing in their train poverty and disease1 and the struggle for existence1 in a land naturally fruitful and bountiful1 and able to support its inhabitants without any special efforts on their part4 ,illustration3 ,,tea ,,and ,,rubber ,,in ,,ceylon--,a ,,rising ,,industry ,the planters are now clamouring for railway extension4 ,in an interview which the ,editor of ,the ,ceylon ,times sought with me ,i gathered that there was considerable discontent with the ,home ,government1 who1 he asserted1 had derived greatly increased revenues from the extension of rubber planting and the new development of the industry1 but who would not grant money for the desired extensions1 the advice given by the present secretary for the colonies being to the effect that the ,ceylon people should save their money1 or 8put by for a rainy day40 ,of course the ,editor's point of view was that of the capitalist1 and that the more the country was opened up the better1 and he did not care to consider the effects of the ultimate outcome of the monopoly which absorbs the results of and succeeds commercial competition4 ,he spoke1 however1 incidentally of the increase of poverty--poverty in such a land6--and that there was no poor law yet4 ,he said the ,cingalese would not work1 and had even neglected the irrigation machinery which had been set up by the planters for their benefit1 in obedience to the requirements of the home government4 ,this would seem to show the difficulty of introducing ostensible benefits in a primitive country which has not reached the necessary stage of development to be able to take advantage of1 or really to utilise1 modern methods4 ,from the point of view of the simple native no doubt there does not appear to be any reason why he should change the habits and customs of his race simply for the benefit of foreign settlers whose chief object is to exploit him4 ,changing trains at ,nunnoya we were again greatly impressed by the splendour of the scenery traversed4 ,for a great part of the distance towards ,kandy and ,colombo1 the line passes through a mountainous district1 at a high altitude1 gradually descending1 the line following the contours of the hill-sides for the most part1 though tunnelled occasionally4 ,one looks across a wide valley with distant mountain ranges1 ridge beyond ridge1 in marked and emphatic outlines1 and occasionally abrupt precipices--the sharp conical summit of ,adam's ,peak conspicuous among them4 ,the hill-sides are largely covered with tea-plantations1 but the railway also passes through wild bush and forest1 and high above one may see great towering crags of limestone and gritstone4 ,mountain streams are frequently crossed1 and these break into cascades and falls among tumbled black rocks2 great boulders frequently strew the mountain slopes as if tumbled by ,titans among the foliage4 ,there is occasionally a suggestion of ,derbyshire scenery here and there1 but on a grander scale4 ,after ,kandy the line descends still more till we reach the palm groves again1 the river1 and the lakes1 and the heat of ,colombo again4 ,this time on returning we put up at the ,g4,o4,h41 which is conveniently near the pier or departure stage for the steamers4 ,here we met ,mr ,cyril ,holman ,hunt again1 and were introduced to several of his planter friends1 who were very agreeable4 ,there is a delightful garden of palms and tropical plants here1 which is a pleasant resort in the cool of the evenings4 ,with ,mr ,hunt we visited the ,colombo ,museum1 which was courteously opened specially for us1 it not being a public day4 ,here in a glass case and alive some extraordinary leaf-insects arrested our attention4 ,they were feeding on green leaves1 which they exactly resembled in colour1 form1 and texture1 so that it would be most difficult to tell which was leaf and which was insect without closely watching them4 ,the young ones were like the red shoots of a plant1 but the mature insects were quite green and quite flat like a leaf while showing the ribs and veinings4 ,one could hardly have believed that nature1 deceptive and imitative as she is1 could have been capable of such a trick4 ,i remember that a native at ,kandy had shown me one of the green leaf insects in a box1 but ,i thought it was an artificial thing1 which indeed it looks4 ,on the staircase were some copies of exceedingly interesting ancient ,cingalese fresco-paintings from caves1 resembling ancient ,indian work in style1 but in some instances showing a certain freedom in handling1 the brush outline recalling later ,greek vase-painting4 ,there were excellent collections of native ,cingalese decorative art in jewellery1 silver work1 and ivory-carving1 of which latter craft some combs were the most delicate and interesting4 ,there were also block-printed stuffs similar to the ,indian hand-printed cottons4 ,among the jewellery1 the necklaces of garnets and other stones set in filagree gold were characteristic4 ,there were models of native boats of which there are several interesting varieties1 and these were exceptionally good life-sized models of types of the aboriginal inhabitants 7the ,veddas7--the wild bush-tribes of ,ceylon4 ,the natural history department was very complete1 and the whole museum judiciously comprehended the history1 natural and archological1 of the island1 and included some highly interesting ,greco-,buddhistic sculptured remains1 not so fine in style as those we had seen at ,sarnath1 but there was the same type of standing figure in drapery expressing the lines of the figure1 and also portions of an 8umbrella10 showing a similar arrangement to the one at ,sarnath1 with the lotus flower centre1 and the series of concentric rings of ornament containing the images of the lion1 the horse1 the ox1 and the elephant in sunk relief4 ,there was also a zoological collection attached to the museum in sheds and aviaries outside the main building--live animals and birds1 including leopards1 jackals1 monkeys1 flamingoes1 pelicans1 and a collection of small birds1 minas1 doves1 etc4 ,the time1 however1 for our departure from ,colombo drew near4 ,our steamer the ,tourane of the ,messageries ,maritime line arrived punctually on ,march the #bnd1 calling at ,colombo on her homeward voyage from ,china1 and the same evening saw us aboard4 ,we made our adieus1 and our steamer cast off1 or rather weighed anchor1 about sunset1 and we were soon under way4 ,the dinner-bell rang at #f4cj1 and going on deck afterwards we saw the last of ,colombo--a mere thread of glittering beads of light on the horizon1 and soon lost in the darkness of night4 ,there was a large proportion of ,french people among the passengers1 and they were chiefly officials and their families returning on leave from ,chinese stations4 ,they were exceedingly gay and lively1 and always had plenty of conversation4 ,it was like a continual comedy going on with much variety of character4 ,on the #gth day1 after a voyage of undisturbed serenity over the ,indian ocean1 the blueness of the sea varied only by the steamer's track1 and the foam dancing into rainbows1 with flying fish1 or an occasional turtle1 or an albatross or two1 which flapped heavily after us1 we sighted ,aden1 and rounded the striking rocky coast to cast anchor off the port4 ,here the tugs brought up the coal lighters1 and the cargo boats1 and the swarm of ,soumalis1 as before1 and the usual bazaar on deck took place1 and the hauling of the coal and cargo went on all through the night--the clamours of the coolies being occasionally fiendish1 and the din was often punctuated by bangs on an iron bar1 which sent a shiver through the ship4 ,this was the method of giving warning to the man engaged in the loading operations in the hold4 ,we afterwards learned that two poor coolies had lost their lives by venturing into the hold before it had been ventilated1 and the air was so foul as to suffocate them1 and a ship's officer who went to their rescue also became insensible for a time4 ,it seemed much hotter1 too1 now the ship was stationary4 ,artillery practice was going on from the fort the next morning1 and we could see the shots strike the water4 ,we did not get clear of ,aden till about #aj ,a4,m41 but at last the swarm of boats and swarthy ,soumalis left us1 and the ,tourane entered on her course through the ,red ,sea1 and in due time passed ,mocha 7to starboard7 and ,perim 7to port7 and the ,arabian coast1 the sea churned into foam by the steamer flashed with phosphorescence at night1--the effect in the wake of the vessel being very beautiful1 green sparks appearing and floating on the surface1 and globes of subdued light glowed under the fleeting foam1 rapidly swept along and lost in the darkness of the night lit only by stars--among which the ,great ,bear showed how much we had altered our latitude4 ,the heat continued very great for three days after leaving ,aden1 when it rather suddenly grew cooler1 and by the time we passed 8the ,brothers0 towards evening on the #abth of ,march1 the weather grew quite grey and cloudy with a cold wind4 ,we reached ,suez early on the morning of the #acth1 and here it was fine and bright again1 though the air felt thin and cool4 ,the colour of the water had changed1 too1 and was now a fine clear turquoise--precisely the colour of the ,egyptian glass bracelets1 but dark blue on the horizon and against the land1 which looked pink4 ,the drama of the official tug and the cargo boats was again performed1 and there was much hoisting of coffee-bags1 in and out1 and a taking of fresh provisions on board4 ,the ,traders came aboard1 too1 with ,fez caps1 bead and shell necklaces1 post-cards1 and other trifles4 ,it was amusing to see our ,french friends buying the ,fez freely1 and not only wearing them themselves but putting them on the heads of their children4 ,there had already been some astonishing transformations in costume on board since the cooler weather set in1 topis and white drill being exchanged for tweed suits and caps or felt hats1 and1 in some cases1 smart official uniforms with shakos4 ,we left ,suez about the middle of the day and entered the canal1 the water still such a brilliant turquoise colour that the reflection in the strong sunlight caused the white breasts of the sea-gulls1 which now followed our ship1 to appear green4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,few ,,trifles ,,the ,,wife ,,wished ,,to ,,bring ,,home ,,from ,,india ,we made some very agreeable acquaintances on board1 which made the time pass more quickly1 and we arrived at ,port ,said early on ,friday the #adth of ,march4 ,the coaling this time was a comparatively clean process1 the wind not being ahead as before4 ,some few of the passengers got off for ,egypt here1 but we were soon under way again2 and ,m4 de ,lsseps' large effigy1 the green dome of the ,custom ,house1 the steamers1 the wharves1 and the posters of ,port ,said soon all faded from view as we bade farewell to the ,east and entered the ,mediterranean on our way to ,marseilles1 the last stage of our long voyage1 where after some tossing we had a passing vision of snow-capped ,sicily1 and the ,lipari ,islands1 with ,stromboli still smoking away2 and so1 in due course1 through the straits of ,bonifazio1 with no further sea troubles1 landed at ,marseilles on ,march #ai1 safe and sound4 ,,index ,abu1 ,mount1 #fb ,adam's ,peak1 #cjb1 #caa ,aden1 outward and homeward call at1 #ab-ae1 #cad ,adinath1 ,jain1 pontiff1 #aca ,adyar ,library1 #bdg ,afghanistan1 ,amir of1 preparations for reception of-- ,at ,agra1 #aac-aad1 #abb2 at ,gwalior1 #ace-acf ,aga ,khan1 #bi ,agra-- ,journey to1 from ,jaipur1 #aab2 arrival--the hotel1 #aab-aac2 ,pearl mosque1 #aac2 drive to the ,fort--,akbar's great gate1 #aac-aad2 the ,taj ,mahal1 #aad-aah-- its garden1 #aah-aai2 the ,jama ,musjid mosque1 #aai-abj1 #abc2 drive to the mausoleum of ,itmad-ud-,daulat1 #abj2 churches1 #aba2 bazaars1 #abb2 excursion to ,sikandra--tomb of ,akbar1 #abb-abe2 otherwise mentioned1 #ig1 #add1 #ade ,ahmed ,khan1 #ej1 #ea1 #aea ,ahmedabad-- ,journey to1 from ,bombay1 #dh-di2 drive through the city1 #di et seq42 mosques1 #di-ec2 cotton factories1 #ee2 bazaar and street life1 #ee-eh2 native pottery1 #eh2 railway station1 #fb ,ajmir-- ,journey to1 from ,ahmedabad1 #fb-fc2 ,akbar ,fort1 #fd-fe2 bazaars1 #fe-ff1 #gj2 the ,dargah1 #ff-fh2 fort of ,targarh1 #fg2 mosque of ,arhai-din-ka-,jhonpra1 #fh2 ,daulat ,bagh1 #fh-fi2 cantonments outside the native city1 #fi-gj2 custom of nailing horse-shoes on the doors1 #hj ,akbar1 ,emperor1 #fd1 #aca1 #aee1 #agg2 tomb of1 at ,sikandra1 #aef ,alviella1 ,count ,goblet d'1 #da ,alcott1 ,colonel1 #bab1 #bdg1 #bdi ,alexandra1 ,queen1 #ac1 #bfa ,altamash1 #fh ,altamsh1 #aeg ,alu-ud-din1 #hj ,amber1 deserted city and palace1 #ajf-g ,american tourists1 #gf1 #hd1 #if-ig1 #acd ,ammayanayakanur1 #bgf ,amritzar-- ,journey to1 from ,delhi1 #afa-afb2 hotel touts1 #afb-afc2 the hotel1 #afc-afd2 drive through the--its open drains1 #afd2 the ,golden ,temple1 #afe-aff2 carpet manufactory1 #aff-afg2 interview with a native pedlar1 #afg-afi2 the ,atal tower1 #afi2 public gardens1 #afi2 departure for ,lahore1 #agj ,anderson1 ,colonel1 #ahe ,arab dhow1 #ae ,arabian coast1 #ab1 #cad ,arhai-din-ka-,jhonpra1 mosque of1 #fh ,arjamand ,bann1 #aag ,arnold1 ,sir ,edwin1 #aah ,baker1 ,sir ,samuel1 #cc ,bandakin1 #aab ,bapatia1 #bde ,bareilly1 #de ,barielly1 #ahd ,bearer1 native1 engagement of1 #cj-cc ,bedding1 need for travellers to supply their own1 #ce1 #gg ,begara1 #ei1 #fj ,benares-- ,arrival at--,clark's ,hotel1 #bjj1 #baf-bag2 first impressions1 #bja2 the ,guest house1 #bja-bjb1 #bje-bjf2 expedition to see the ,buddhist remains at ,sarnath1 #bja-bje2 viewing the ,ghats from the ,maharajah's peacock boat1 #bjf-baa2 the ,burning ,ghat1 #bji-baj2 the ,manikaranika ,ghat and the ,nepal ,temple1 #bae-baf2 pilgrims1 #baj2 the ,golden ,temple1 #baa2 ,hindu ,college1 #bab2 the ,monkey ,temple1 #bab2 visit to the ,maharajah in his palace1 #bac-bae2 farewell glimpse of1 #bah ,bengal-,nagpur ,railway1 #bda ,berhampore1 #bdd ,besant1 ,mrs ,annie1 #bab2 visit to1 at ,madras1 #bdg-bdi ,bhutian peasants1 #bbe-bbf1 #bce ,birdwood1 ,sir ,george1 #bi ,bitragunta1 #bde ,blavatsky1 ,madame1 #bdi ,blow1 ,mr ,detmar1 #ahb ,bois1 ,mr1 #bij1 #bie ,bombay-- ,impressions of1 from the sea1 #ba2 the landing at1 #ba-bc2 ,malabar ,hill1 #ba1 #bi-cj2 street scenes1 #bd-be2 modern ,british buildings1 #be-bf2 ,crawford market1 #bf2 bazaar1 #bf-bh2 native wedding processions1 #bg-bh2 ,victoria ,gardens1 #bh-bi2 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum1 #bi2 engagement of a native servant1 #cj-cc2 oppressive heat1 #df2 welcome of ,m4 ,dadabhai ,naoroji to1 #df-dg2 cotton factories1 #ee ,bonifazio1 straits of1 #d1 #cag ,brahmans1 #bdb ,british administration1 benefits of1 discussed--causes of unrest1 #ada-adc1 #aij-aib1 #aii1 #cji-caj 8,brothers1 ,the10 lightship1 #aa1 #cae ,brown1 ,mr ,percy1 #agi ,buddhism-- ,in ,ceylon1 #big2 remains of1 at ,sarnath1 #bja1 #bjc-bje-- the ,great ,tope1 #bje2 ,temple of the ,tooth1 #cjb ,buffalo cow1 #cf ,burmese people1 discontent of1 under ,british rule1 #aii ,cactus plant1 #ge ,caine1 ,mr ,w4 ,s41 cited1 #ee1 #aji1 #aah1 #aca1 #aea 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decorations of ,southern ,india1 #bhf ,taj ,mahal-- ,visit to1 and account of1 #aad-aah2 gardens of1 #aah-aai2 compared with the ,itmad-ud-,daulat1 #abj2 moonlight visit to1 #abj-aba2 sketches of1 #aba ,tamils1 #big ,tanjore-- ,journey to1 from ,madras1 #bea-bed2 accommodation at1 #bed-bee1 #bfi2 the old fort and ,hindu ,temple1 #bee-beh2 religious procession at1 #beh2 ,christian church at1 #beh-bei2 palace of the ,maharajah1 #bei-bfa2 description of--street scenes1 etc41 #bfa-bfd2 decline of ,western influence at1 #bfc2 native theatre1 #bfd-bfh2 native pedlars--,tanjore craftsmanship1 #bfh-bfi2 water carrying1 #bgj ,taormina1 #d ,taragarh1 ,fort of1 #fg ,tea1 ,ceylon1 colour of beverage1 #cje ,tea plantations of ,ceylon1 #cjb-cje ,theatre1 native1 at ,tanjore1 #bfd-bfh ,theosophical ,society1 headquarters1 #bdg ,threshing of grain1 native methods1 #beb ,thull ,ghat1 #cd ,tibetan fat-tailed sheep1 #agf ,tibetan masque at ,darjeeling1 #bbi-bcb ,tiled mosques1 #agh ,tourane1 s4s41 #cac ,trinchinopoly-- ,arrival at--general impressions1 #bgj-bgb1 #bge2 visit to the temple of ,seringham1 #bgb-bge2 the ,rock of ,trinchinopoly1 #bge ,tuticorin1 #bhg-bhi 8,twelve ,apostles1 ,the10 #ab ,udaipur-- ,native group from1 #gf2 journey to1 from ,chitorgarh1 #hb-hc2 hotel experiences1 #hc-hd2 place of tombs1 #he-hf2 palace of the ,maharajah1 #hg-hh2 excursion to the palace of ,jagmandin1 #hh-ia2 feeding of the ,maharajah's wild pigs1 #ia-ib2 the ,maharajah's gardens1 #ic2 ,victoria ,institute1 #ic2 departure from--the station1 #id-ie ,umballa1 #afa1 #ahc ,villuparam1 #bed ,vishnu1 #hf1 #bgb1 #bgc ,vizianagram1 #bdd ,voyages out and home1 descriptions of1 #a-bj1 #cac-cag ,wales1 ,prince and ,princess1 #afg1 #bjf1 #bhb ,waltair1 #bdd ,water filter and water bearers at railway stations1 #ge ,watts1 ,g4 ,f41 #gf ,wax1 raised designs of1 on textiles1 #agi ,webb1 ,sidney1 #bdh ,wedding processions in ,bombay1 #bg-bh ,western civilisation1 questionable value of1 #id1 #cjh-caj ,women1 native1 costumes of1 #aje1 #agd-age ,zebu bulls1 #bef1 #bhj ,,printed ,,by ,,turnbull ,,and ,,spears1 ,,edinburgh ,transcriber's ,notes ,punctuation and spelling were made consistent when a predominant preference was found in this book2 otherwise they were not changed4 ,an attempt was made to regularize inconsistent hyphenation1 but many inconsistencies remain4 ,simple typographical errors were corrected2 occasional unbalanced quotation marks retained4 ,ambiguous hyphens at the ends of lines were retained4 ,the illustrations on the title and dedication pages are decorative4 ,illustrations originally printed mid-paragraph have been moved to nearby paragraph breaks1 so the page numbers in the ,list of ,illustrations do not always match the positions in this e,book4 ,however1 links1 in versions of this e,book that support them1 do lead to the matching illustrations4 ,index not checked for proper alphabetization or correct page references4 ,page #hc3 8,in meeting one's compatriots aboard0 probably should be 8abroad04 ,page #bah3 8,aurangzer ,mosque0 should be 8,aurangzeb ,mosque04 ,page #bca3 8in an access of ridiculous0 probably should be 8excess04