,a ,,te*nical ,,hi/ory ,,( ,,co/ume 99 ,,anci5t ,,egyptian1 ,,assyrian1 ,,& ,,p]sian ,,co/umes ,,9 ,,prep>ation ,,anci5t ,,greek1 ,,roman ,,& ,,byzant9e ,,co/ume ,,& ,,decorations4 ,,european ,,co/ume ,,f ,,! ,,?irte5? ,,c5tury ,,to ,,! ,,comm5cem5t ,,( ,,! ,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury----,,) ,,decorations4 ,,types ,,( ,,indian1 ,,p]sian1 ,,*9ese ,,& ,,japanese ,,co/ume ,,& ,,decorations4 ,,) ,,notes ,,on ,,v>i\s ,,additional ,,types ,,( ,,primitive ,,g>m5ts4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,ag5ts ,,am]ica ,,! ,,macmillan ,,company #fd #ff ,,fif? ,,av5ue1 ,,new ,,york ,,au/ralasia ,,ox=d ,,univ]sity ,,press #bje ,,fl9d]s ,,lane1 ,,melb\rne ,,canada ,,! ,,macmillan ,,company ,,( ,,canada4 ,,ltd4 ,,/4 ,,m>t9',s ,,h\se1 #gj ,,bond ,,/reet1 ,,toronto ,,india ,,macmillan ,,company1 ,,ltd4 ,,macmillan ,,build+1 ,,bombay #cji ,,b[ ,,baza> ,,/reet1 ,,calcutta ,,anci5t ,,egyptian ,,assyrian ,,& ,,p]sian ,,co/umes ,,& ,,decorations ,,by ,,m>y ,g4 ,,h\/on ,,& ,,flor5ce ,s4 ,,hornbl[] ,,conta9+ ,,tw5ty-,,five ,,full-,,page ,,illu/rations1 ,,sixte5 ,,( ,,!m ,,9 ,,col\r1 ,,& ,,sixty ,,l9e ,,diagrams ,,9 ,,! ,,text ,a4 ,c4 ,,black1 ,,limit$ #d1 #e #f ,,soho ,,squ>e1 ,,london1 ,w4 #a4 #aibj ,,introduction ,if ?is "w is to be kept )9 its limitations1 x is naturally impossible to give a complete survey ( all ! v>ieties ( ! v>i\s /yles4 ,to get ?is k x w be necess>y to consult ! works ( ref]5ce1 ( :i* li/s are giv5 9 ea* section4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ! special aspect ( ! "w is m fully treat$ ?an 9 any o!r accessible book ^u ! subject4 ,e illu/ration ( co/ume giv5 has be5 actually cut out & made up be=e be+ sket*$1 except 9 a few cases :i* are ( ! nature ( duplicates1 s t by foll[+ ! directions giv5 x w be easy = anyone to reproduce !m 9 mat]ial4 ,:]e decoration is requir$1 ! exact draw+ & col\r+ ( ! v>i\s /yles ( ,hi/oric ,ornam5t1 :i* are ! "w ( ,f4 ,s4 ,hornbl[] 7:o has also col\r$ ! co/umes :]e necess>y71 w enable su* details to be appropriately appli$4 ,?r\gh\t ! book1 ! illu/rations are giv5 by means ( facsimiles ( draw+s by arti/s ( ! v>i\s c5turies1 s t a hi/oric survey ( ! ,hi/ory ( ,figure ,draw+ w be includ$4 ,:]e ! draw+s ( primitive arti/s d n cle>ly express ! ideas int5d$ to be convey$1 a mod]n draw+ ( ! g>m5t on a dress-/& w be us$ = explanation ( ! measur$ draw+s ( ! cut-out g>m5ts4 ,! gr[+ appreciation ( ! beauty & value ( ! e>li] & m primitive sy/ems ( cutt+ %[n 9 mod]n dress design+ = ! la/ decade1 :5 ! s-call$ ,magy> bl\se 7really ! simple tunic common to all primitive folk7 began to be popul>1 w make ! pres5t volume a conv5i5t =m ( inspiration = design]s2 also1 :]e m exact reproduction is ne$$1 z 9 !atrical "w1 pageantry1 & s =?1 ! c>eful work+ out ( ! details ( cut & decoration w exp$ite production & save h\rs ( fruitless se>*+ 9 ref]5ce libr>ies4 ,to ! ,art ,/ud5t1 9 addition to ! always int]e/+ hi/ory ( co/ume1 ! developm5t ( ! ,art ( ,repres5tation1 z %[n 9 ! illu/rations ( ^! volumes1 :i* is s /rangely repeat$ 9 ! p]sonal hi/ory ( e "y p]son le>n+ to draw1 w be attractive & in/ructive4 ,f9ally1 9 connection ) ! hi/ory lesson 9 ! ord9>y s*ool1 tea*]s w f9d ! illu/rations cle> & helpful1 especially if dramatic repres5tations are attempt$4 ,,m>y ,g4 ,,h\/on4 ,,cont5ts ,,page ,,anci5t ,,egyptian ,,co/ume #a ,,anci5t ,,assyrian ,,co/ume #dc ,,anci5t ,,p]sian ,,co/ume #ge ,,li/ ,,( ,,plates ,,9 ,,col\r ,,plate ,,page ,i4 ,,anci5t ,,egyptian ,,goddess #g ,,ii4 ,,anci5t ,,egyptian ,,que5 #i ,,iii4 ,,anci5t ,,egyptian ,,decoration #ac ,,iv4 ,,! ,,god ,,osiris #ae ,v4 ,,ani1 ,a ,,scribe #ag ,,vi4 ,,?u?u1 ,,wife ,,( ,,ani #ba ,,vii4 ,,anci5t ,,egyptian ,,decoration #bc ,,viii4 ,,anci5t ,,egyptian ,,que5 #be ,,ix4 ,,anci5t ,,egyptian ,,decoration #bi ,x4 ,,anci5t ,,egyptian ,,prie/ess #cc ,,xi4 ,,anci5t ,,assyrian ,,p]sonage #ea ,,xii4 ,,anci5t ,,assyrian ,,decoration #fa ,,xiii4 ,,k+ ,,assur-,,nasir-,,pal #fc ,,xiv4 ,,que5 ,,( ,,assur-,,bani-,,pal #ga ,,xv4 ,,anci5t ,,assyrian ,,jewell]y ,,& ,,tassels #gc ,,xvi4 ,,d>ius1 ,,k+ ,,( ,,p]sia #ha ,,li/ ,,( ,,illu/rations ,,9 ,,! ,,text1 ,,o!r ,,?an ,,plans ,,fig4 #b4 ,,tunic ,,) ,,braces #aa ,,fig4 #c4 ,,tunic ,,) ,,%ort ,,sleeves #aa ,,fig4 #d4 ,,sleeveless ,,tunic #aa ,,fig4 #e4 ,,robe1 ,,undrap$ #ad ,,fig4 #f4 ,,robe1 ,,drap$ ,,& ,,gird$ #ah ,,figs4 #g1 #h ,,& #i4 ,,?ree ,,views ,,( ,a ,,drap$ ,,robe #ai ,,fig4 #aj4 ,,robe ,,drap$ ,,on ,a ,,woman #bj ,,figs4 #aa ,,& #ab4 ,,two ,,skirts ,,& ,a ,,cape #bg ,,figs4 #ac1 #ad ,,& #ae4 ,,skirts1 ,,cloaks ,,& ,a ,,cape #ca ,,fig4 #af4 ,,%awl ,,or ,,drap]y #cb ,,figs4 #ag ,,& #ai4 ,,two ,,drap+s ,,( ,,%awls #ce ,,fig4 #ah4 ,a ,,simple ,,%awl ,,drap]y #cg ,,fig4 #bj4 ,,drap+ ,,( ,a ,,cloak #ch ,,fig4 #ba4 ,,milit>y ,,corselet ,,& ,,apron-,,l ,,app5dage #ci ,,fig4 #bb4 ,,robe ,,) ,,corselet ,,& ,,girdle #ci ,,figs4 #bc1 #bd ,,& #be4 ,,an ,,indian ,,s>i #da ,,figs4 #bf1 #bg ,,& #bh4 ,,?ree ,,views ,,( ,a ,,%awl ,,drap]y #di ,,fig4 #cj4 ,,belt$ ,,tunic ,,& ,,small ,,%awl #ec ,,fig4 #ca4 ,,belt$ ,,tunic ,,) ,,fr+e ,,drap+ #ee ,,fig4 #cb4 ,,%ort ,,tunic ,,) ,,small ,,%awl ,,& ,,belt #eg ,,fig4 #cc4 ,,tunic ,,drap$ ,,) ,,%awl #ei ,,figs4 #cd1 #ce ,,& #cf4 ,,fold$ ,,drap]y ,,ov] ,,tunic #fe ,,fig4 #cg4 ,,fold$ ,,drap]y ,,ov] ,,tunic #fg ,,fig4 #ch4 ,,semicircul> ,,& ,,fold$ ,,drap]ies #fg ,,fig4 #ci4 ,,ri*ly ,,decorat$ ,,tunic #fi ,,fig4 #dj4 ,,robe1 ,,belt$ ,,& ,,drap$ #hj ,,figs4 #da ,,& #db4 ,a ,,drap]y ,,9 ,,anci5t ,,& ,,9 ,,mod]n ,,draw+ #hc ,,figs4 #dc ,,& #dd4 ,a ,,drap]y ,,9 ,,anci5t ,,& ,,9 ,,mod]n ,,draw+ #he ,,fig4 #de4 ,,%ort-,,sleev$ ,,coat ,,ov] ,,tunic #hg ,,fig4 #df4 ,,ov]coat1 ,,%ort ,,tunic ,,& ,,tr\s]s #hi ,,li/ ,,( ,,cut ,,out ,,patt]ns ,,or ,,plans ,,( ,,g>m5ts ,,pages ,,tunics1 ,,) ,,braces #h ,,& #aa ,,tunic1 ,,sleeveless #aa ,,tunics1 ,,) ,,sleeves #aa ,,& #fi ,,robes #ad ,,& #hj ,,skirt #bf ,,cape #bf ,,coll> #bf ,,%awls ,,or ,,drap]ies #cd1 #ce1 #cg1 #da1 #di1 #ej1 #fb1 #fg1 #hb1 #hd ,,cloak #ch ,,corselets #ci ,,coats #hf ,,& #hh ,,tr\s]s #hh ,,li/ ,,( ,,dat$ ,,g>m5ts ,,illu/rat$ ,,anci5t ,,egyptian ,,section ,,page #cgjj ,b4,c4 #aj #bejj ,b4,c4 #af #agjj ,b4,c4 #h ,,& #aj #afjj ,b4,c4 #cf #aejj ,b4,c4 #aj #adej ,b4,c4 #af ,,& #bj #acjj ,b4,c4 #cf #abjj ,b4,c4 #ch #gjj ,b4,c4 #f #eej ,b4,c4 #cf ,,f\r? ,,c5tury ,b4,c4 #cj ,,fir/ ,,c5tury ,b4,c4 #h ,a4,d4 #bjj #cj ,a4,d4 #aibj #dj ,,anci5t ,,assyrian ,,section ,,page #bejj ,b4,c4 #dh #ajjj ,b4,c4 #ej ,,n9? ,,c5tury ,b4,c4 #eb1 #ef ,,& #fb ,,eigh? ,,c5tury ,b4,c4 #eh ,,sev5? ,,c5tury ,b4,c4 #fh ,,& #gj ,,anci5t ,,p]sian ,,section ,,eigh? ,,c5tury ,b4,c4 #hd ,,six? ,,to ,,fif? ,,c5turies ,b4,c4 #hj1 #hb1 #hf ,,& #hh ,,decoration ,,anci5t ,,egyptian ,,decoration #ac1 #bc ,,& #bi ,,anci5t ,,assyrian ,,decoration #fa1 #fi ,,& #gc ,,works ,,( ,,ref]5ce #e ,,& #dg ,,anci5t ,,egyptian ,,co/ume ,,g5]al ,,description ,,( ,,anci5t ,,egyptian ,,co/ume ,,cutt+ ,,out ,z f> z ! cutt+ out ( anci5t ,egyptian co/ume is conc]n$1 we may divide x broadly into f\r types--namely3 7#a7 ,! type ( ! tunic4 7#b7 ,! type ( ! robe4 7#c7 ,! type ( ! skirt1 ) or )\t cape4 7#d7 ,! type ( ! %awl or drap]y4 ,! "o or two v>ieties :i* occur 9 addition to ^! may be f\nd 9 milit>y dress & adaptations f ! co/umes ( o!r c\ntries4 ,all ! v>ieties above ref]r$ to are describ$ 9 detail 9 ?is volume4 ,,decoration ,,& ,,col\r+ ,?\gh we f9d ,egyptian co/ume 9 _m in/ances decorat$ all ov] ) wov5 or pr9t$ patt]ns1 decoration 9 ! ma9 0 conf9$ to accessories su* z ! head-dress1 coll>1 & girdle1 ^! be+ (t5 pa9t$1 embroid]$1 bead$1 or jewell$4 ,see v>i\s examples giv54 ,! col\r+ :i* 0 usually1 ?\gh n inv>iably1 conf9$ to ! decorations consi/$ ( simple s*emes1 v>iations ( ! hues ( r$1 blue1 gre51 yell[1 & deep purple describ$ on p4 #ff4 ,,mat]ial ,! mat]ial us$ 9 ! co/umes 0 *iefly l954 ,9 ! mo/ anci5t types x 0 ( a fairly ?ick1 co>se weave2 b 9 ! lat] examples a f9e ?9 l951 loosely wov5 s z to appe> almo/ transp>5t1 0 us$4 ,! l95 has (t5 a /iff5$ appe>ance1 & also gives ! idea ( hav+ be5 g(f]$ or pleat$4 ,,dates ,! e>lie/ types ( co/ume 7 ! tunics2 midway come ! robes & skirts1 & ! drap$ or %awl type ( co/ume appe>s ! late/4 ,h[ev]1 ! old] types ( co/ume did n disappe> z ! new ones 7 introduc$1 b all cont9u$ to be worn contemporane\sly4 ,! dates ( mo/ ( ! co/umes 9 ?is volume are giv5 ) _! description1 & h be5 v]ifi$ at ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,,m5 ,,& ,,wom53 ,,! ,,diff]5ce ,,9 ,,_! ,,dress ,x c easily be ga!r$ f ! illu/rations t ! types ( co/ume worn by bo? sexes 7 v simil>4 ,! high wai/-l9e prevails 9 fem99e dress1 :ile ! male co/ume1 if gird$1 0 g5]ally conf9$ ab\t ! hips4 ,egyptian ,works ( ,ref]5ce4 ,prisse d',av5nes1 8,l',art ,egypti5s02 ,leeman1 8,aegypti*e ,monum5te02 ,rossell9i1 8,monum5ti ,egitto02 ,hott5ro?1 8,le ,co/ume02 ,rac9et1 8,le ,co/ume ,hi/orique02 ,sir ,j4 ,g4 ,wilk9son1 8,anci5t ,egyptians02 ,briti% ,museum ,h&books & ,reproductions4 ,^! reproductions h lately be5 augm5t$ & = ^? :o _c visit ! ,museum w be f\nd mo/ useful4 ,,anci5t ,,egyptian ,,co/ume ,,plate ,i4 ,plate ,i41 :i* dates #gjj ,b4,c41 is an exact copy ( an ,egyptian draw+4 ,x w be notic$ t ! ,egyptian me?od ( repres5t+ ! figure is a peculi> "o4 ,a mod]n repres5tation ( ! same type ( dress is %[n 9 ,fig4 #b1 & ! plan ( cutt+ 9 ,fig4 #b;,a ,x %\ld be not$ t ?is plan--namely1 a tunic ) braces--is 9 "s in/ances %[n ) ! braces button$ on ea* %\ld] at ! n>r[e/ "p4 ,?is illu/ration is giv5 z a type ( ,egyptian dress decoration1 :i* w\ld be ei!r pr9t$1 pa9t$1 or embroid]$ on ! g>m5t4 ,x might be consid]$ t ?is type ( dress m ne>ly approa*es ! skirt ?an ! tunic2 b rea*+1 z x does1 to ! brea/-l9e1 & comp>+ v>i\s examples :i*1 z x 71 gradually m]ge into ! sleeveless tunic :i* aga9 m]ges into ! tunic ) %ort sleeves1 ! pres5t classification w be f\nd to be ! mo/ conv5i5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,i ,m4,g4,h4 del4 ,f4,s4,h4 p9x4 ,a ,,goddess ,,plate ,,ii4 ,plate ,,ii41 :i* dates #agjj ,b4,c4 also fir/ c5tury ,b4,c41 is an exact copy ( an ,egyptian draw+ ( a woman we>+ a species ( tunic ) braces 7plan1 ,fig4 #a74 ,! /rip$ decoration ^u ?is tunic is sugge/$ by ! l9es ( ano!r type ( ,egyptian dress--namely1 ! drawn-up skirt4 ,! orig9 ( ! decoration c be easily und]/ood by a ref]5ce to ! drap]y on ,plate ,,ix4 ,9 ! orig9al ( ?is draw+ ! figure is repres5t$ ) a l(ty head-dress 9 addition to ! fillet ( ribbon & ! gold5 asp "h %[n1 b = ! sake ( gett+ ! figure on a scale l>ge en\gh to %[ cle> details ! head-dress is omitt$4 ,! p]son repres5t$ is said to be ,cleopatra dress$ z a goddess4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,ii ,m4,g4,h4 del4 ,f4,s4,h4 p9x4 ,a ,,que5 ,figs4 #b1 #c1 & #d1 dat+ #agjj1 #aejj1 & #cgjj ,b4,c4 respectively1 are we>+ dresses ( ! fir/ great type ( ,egyptian co/ume--namely1 ! tunic type4 ,!y 7 made ( fairly ?ick l954 ,fig4 #b is put on by /epp+ into x & pull+ x up4 ,figs4 #c & #d are put on ov] ! head2 ! measurem5ts giv5 w fit a slim figure )\t und]clo?+4 ,! orig9 ( ,fig4 #b 0 mo/ probably a piece ( l95 ( ! same l5g? z ?is g>m5t b wide en\gh to lap ab\t half r\nd ! figure & h a piece tuck$ 9 at ! top to keep x clos$4 ,?is sort ( tight drap]y is q commonly worn by negresses 9 ,africa to-day4 ,we also f9d x on "s anci5t ,egyptian wood5 /atuettes1 ! drap]y be+ ( l95 :ile ! figure only is 9 wood4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b;,a ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c;,a ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d;,a ,,plate ,,iii4 ,x w be notic$ t ! ,egyptian dress decoration is *iefly conf9$ to ! coll>1 :i* w be se5 9 we> on ,plates ,v41 ,,vi41 ,,viii41 & ,x4 ,! patt]ns 7 ei!r embroid]$1 pa9t$1 bead$1 or jewell$2 ! fav\rite lotus fl[] is almo/ always 9 evid5ce 9 ! designs 7see a1 b1 c1 & d on ,plate ,,iii474 ,on ?is plate also w be se5 sev]al o!r *>act]i/ic bord]s 7f1 g1 h1 i71 & two all-ov] patt]ns 7k1 e71 :i* 7 probably ei!r /amp$ or tape/ry-wov5 on ! dress fabric4 ,! col\r+ ( ^! patt]ns is *iefly tak5 f pa9t$ repres5tations ( p]sons & ornam5ts4 ,to arrive at ! exact col\r+ us$ if ! g>m5ts 7 decorat$ ) dy$ mat]ials ! description ( ! types ( col\rs us$ 9 dye+ anci5t ,assyrian & ,p]sian co/umes1 see p4 #ff1 w give a m exact notion ( :at 0 worn4 ,we h1 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 actual examples ( dy$ wools & col\r$ beads us$ 9 dress decoration4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,iii ,f4,s4,h4 fec4 ,,details ,,( ,,decoration ,,plate ,,iv4 ,plate ,,iv4 belongs to ! next great division ( ,egyptian co/ume1 :i* may be call$ ! 8,type ( ! ,robe40 ,?is illu/ration %[s x 9 its simple/ =m--namely1 ungird$4 ,to und]/& ! qua9t ,egyptian draw+ ( ,plate ,,iv4 a ref]5ce to ,fig4 #e is necess>y1 :i* is a mod]n draw+ ( ! same co/ume4 ,z w be se5 f ! plan1 ,fig4 #e;,a1 ?is g>m5t consi/s ( a piece ( mat]ial twice ! height ( ! figure & fold$ ov] 9 ! middle2 a hole is "h cut = ! neck &1 9 addition1 a %ort slit d[n ! front to all[ ( ! g>m5t be+ pull$ ov] ! head4 ,! mat]ial is sewn up ! sides f ! bottom1 leav+ a space at ! top = ! passage ( ! arms4 ,a g>m5t simil> 9 type to ?is is worn at ! pres5t day 9 ,egypt & ,syria1 & also1 /range to say1 by ! natives ( ,brazil4 ,?is robe %\ld be comp>$ ) t worn by ,d>ius1 ,k+ ( ,p]sia1 lat] 9 ?is volume4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e ,musicians are (t5 repres5t$ we>+ ?is robe1 sometimes r\nd$ (f at ea* side ( ! hem s t x does n trail z x does on ,fig4 #e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e;,a ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,iv ,m4,g4,h4 del4 ,f4,s4,h4 p9x4 ,,! ,,god ,,osiris ,,plate ,v4 ,plate ,v41 dat+ #adej ,b4,c41 %[s ! same robe z ,plate ,,iv4 worn 9 a diff]5t mann]4 ,9 ?is case ! g>m5t is left op5 d[n ! sides1 ! front half is tak5 & p9n$ at ! back ( ! wai/1 & ! back half is drawn t[>ds ! front & gird$ ) a wide sa% measur+ #cb0 #abj01 z %[n 9 ,plate ,v4 & ,figs4 #f1 #g1 #h1 & #i4 ,x %\ld be not$ t ,fig4 #f is a mod]n draw+ ( ,plate ,v42 also ! co/ume ^u p4 #ai1 :i* dates #bejj ,b4,c41 gives ?ree diff]5t views ( ! same dress1 a co/ume :i* emphasizes ! love ( ! ,egyptians = draw+ up ! dress tightly s z to def9e ! limbs at ! back & all[+ great masses ( drap]y to fall 9 front to ! feet4 ,to adju/ ! sa% or girdle on ,plate ,v41 comm5ce at ! "r side ( wai/ draw+ ! sa% d[nw>ds to ! left & r\nd ! hips at back1 next draw upw>ds across ! front f "r to left & r\nd wai/ at back & tuck ! rema9+ l5g? ( sa% 9 front z %[n 9 ,fig4 #f4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,v ,m4,g4,h4 del4 ,f4,s4,h4 p9x4 ,,ani1 ,a ,,scribe ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #g ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #h ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #i ,plate ,,vi4 is an illu/ration ( a robe worn by a woman #adej ,b4,c41 & ,fig4 #aj is a mod]n repres5tation ( ! same robe4 ,x w be not$ 9 ?is case t ! front half is n p9n$ beh9d ! back1 b is kept q full 9 front1 & t ! back half1 in/ead ( be+ gird$ by a sa%1 is drawn r\nd & ti$ 9 a knot j "u ! brea/4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aj ,?is robe on wom5 is also sometimes ti$ ) a n>r[ girdle "u ! brea/ in/ead ( ! edges be+ knott$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,vi ,m4,g4,h4 del4 ,f4,s4,h4 p9x4 ,,?u?u1 ,,wife ,,( ,,ani ,,plate ,,vii4 ,! decoration on ?is plate %[s ! detail ( ! *>act]i/ic ,egyptian w+$ globe 7a71 hawk 7b71 & beetle 7sc>abu7 7c74 ,plates ,i4 & ,,viii4 are examples ( ! application ( w+$ decoration ^u ,egyptian co/ume4 ,?ree o!r geometrical bord]s 7d1 e1 & f7 & two all-ov] patt]ns 7g & h7 are giv52 g %[s an example ( ! well-kn[n fea!r or scale patt]n2 h 7:i* is simil> to e1 ,plate ,,iii47 is a fav\rite geometric motif1 & 0 (t5 pr9t$ or pa9t$ on g>m5ts4 ,a v *>m+ effect also ( ?is patt]n 0 a tunic entirely compos$ ( beads1 or beads & re$s1 & worn ov] ! g>m5t %[n on ,fig4 #b1 p4 #aa4 ,sev]al bead$ networks ( ?is type may be se5 on ! mummies 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,vii ,f4,s4,h4 fec4 ,,details ,,( ,,decoration ,,plate ,,viii4 ,! ?ird out/&+ type ( ,egyptian co/ume may be describ$ z ! 8,type ( ! ,petticoat & ,cape0 7! petticoat 0 sometimes worn )\t ! cape74 ,n[ ?is petticoat or skirt1 z %[n 9 ,plate ,,viii4 & ,fig4 #aa1 consi/s ( a /raight cut piece ( mat]ial ?read$ ?r\gh at ! wai/ ) a n>r[ /rip :i* is knott$ r\nd ! figure to keep ! g>m5t 9 position2 ! cape-l %\ld] drap]y is an oblong piece ( /uff1 to drape :i* take ! corn]s d & e ( ,fig4 #aa;,a 9 y\r h&s & twi/ !m till ! triangles a1 b1 c1 & d1 e1 f1 h become cords1 & !n knot z %[n 9 ! diagram4 ,9 ! skirt piece1 ,fig4 #aa;,b1 sew toge!r ! two %ort sides4 ,z w be se5 9 ! illu/ration1 a long knott$ girdle ab\t #ajj in*es 9 l5g? is worn ov] ! skirt4 ,x passes twice r\nd ! wai/1 & is knott$ at ! back z well z ! front4 ,9 ,plate ,,viii4 ! deep ornam5tal coll> is worn ov] ! cape4 ,! coll>1 :i* 0 fa/5$ d[n ! back1 is %[n 9 plan 7,fig4 #aa;,c74 ,fig4 #ab %[s ano!r me?od ( we>+ a simil>ly cut b r long] skirt2 9 ?is case !re is no wai/ cord2 two pieces ( ! upp] edge ab\t half a y>d ap>t are tak5 9 ! h&s & twi/$1 "o is cross$ ov] ! o!r & tuck$ inside1 ! o!r is pull$ up & ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,viii ,m4,g4,h4 del4 ,f4,s4,h4 p9x4 ,a ,,que5 =ms an e>1 z %[n 9 sket*4 ,?is p>ticul> drap+ is ! inspiration ( ! decoration on ,plate ,,ii4 ,simil> drap+s )\t ! twi/+ 7 worn bo? by m5 & wom54 ,x is int]e/+ to note t a practically simil> g>m5t is worn 9 ,burma at ! pres5t day by bo? m5 & wom54 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aa;,a ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aa;,b ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aa;,c ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aa ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ab ,comp>e ,fig4 #ab ) ,plate ,,ii4 :]e ! drap]y "h giv5 has sugge/$ 9 its l9es a decoration ( /ripes4 ,,plate ,,ix4 ,! notewor?y details ( ! decorations on ?is plate are ^? illu/rat$ at a & b4 ,^! are app5dages f girdles su* z worn by male figures2 an example is ,fig4 #ba4 ,! mat]ial ( ?is app5dage may be possibly ( pa9t$ lea!r1 wool embroid]$ l951 or l95 ) metal m\nts4 ,_m beautiful pa9t$ illu/rations ( ?is girdle app5dage are to be f\nd 9 ! ,briti% ,museum2 e is f a fea!r fan4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,ix ,f4,s4,h4 fec4 ,,details ,,( ,,decoration ,fig4 #ac is an ,egyptian woman's co/ume dat+ #adej ,b4,c42 %e is we>+ two g>m5ts--namely1 a skirt & cloak4 ,?is skirt1 :i* is frequ5tly worn alone )\t ! cloak1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ab1 is cut to exactly ! same wid? top & bottom4 ,x is wide = ! figure1 & ! sup]flu\s fullness is caught up 9 ea* h& 9 ! act ( putt+ on4 ,! upp] edge ( g>m5t is drawn tightly r\nd ! figure j "u ! brea/s2 ! portions held 9 ea* h& are !n ti$ toge!r 9 a knot4 ,9 ,fig4 #ac ! cloak is knott$ 9 ) ! skirt2 ?is cloak is simply a rectangul> piece ( mat]ial4 ,x w be not$ t ,figs4 #ac1 #ad1 & #ae all %[ ! popul> ,egyptian effect ( drap]y drawn tightly r\nd ! back ( ! limbs & fall+ full 9 front4 ,fig4 #ad1 :i* dates ,a4,d4 #bjj1 %[s a ,roman adaptation ( ! same co/ume4 ,! figure we>s und]nea? a long tunic1 & ov] ?is1 tight5+ x 9 at ! wai/1 an ,egyptian skirt2 a small ,egyptian sc>f is knott$ to ! skirt 9 simil> fa%ion to ! co/ume 9 ,fig4 #ae4 ,all ! g>m5ts worn by ,fig4 #ad are rectangul> pieces ( mat]ial2 ! tunic is two /raight pieces ( /uff sewn up ! sides2 ! top edge is divid$ into ?ree p>ts by p9n+2 ^! op5+s =m ! neck & arm-holes4 ,fig4 #ae is a ,greek co/ume ( ! f\r? c5tury ,b4,c4 9 :i* ! ,egyptian influ5ce is equally /rongly m>k$2 9 ?is case1 aga91 ! g>m5ts are all rectangul> pieces ( mat]ial1 ! sleeves 9 "o ) ! tunic4 ,to knot ! cloak to ! ov]-skirt1 z %[n 9 ?is figure1 ! fullness ( ! ov]-skirt %\ld be bun*$ up 9 "o h&2 ! two corn]s ( ! cloak are tak5 9 ! o!r h& & twi/$ toge!r r\nd ! skirt 9 a knot4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ac ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ad ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ae ,,plate ,x4 ,plate ,x4 %[s ! f\r? division ( ,egyptian co/ume--namely1 ! 8,type ( ! ,%awl or ,drap]y40 ,sev]al v>ieties ( ?is type are illu/rat$ & describ$ on pp4 #cc1 #cd1 & #ce4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #af ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,x ,m4,g4,h4 del4 ,f4,s4,h4 p9x4 ,a ,,prie/ess ,illu/ration3 ,figs4 #af;,a & #ag;,a ,! f\r? division ( ,egyptian co/ume is %[n 9 ! examples on ,plate ,x4 & pp4 #cc1 #cd1 & #ce4 ,^! are ! drap$ or %awl type ( co/ume4 ,!y h _m resemblances to ! drap+ ( ! well-kn[n ,indian s>i ( mod]n times4 ,comp>e ^! ) illu/ration ( s>i 7p4 #ci74 ,! +5uity display$ 9 ! drap+ ( ^! co/umes c only be realiz$ :5 !y are actually done ^u a model4 ,x %\ld be not$ ) reg>d to all ,egyptian co/umes ( ! m fully drap$ type t ! entire drap]ies seem to radiate f "o po9t1 usually a knot at ! wai/1 ) v beautiful effect4 ,to drape ,fig4 #af1 :i* is a mod]n draw+ ( ,plate ,x41 tie a cord r\nd ! wai/1 tuck 9 corn] b 7see plan1 ,fig4 #af;,a7 at left side ( wai/1 pass r\nd ! back & r\nd ! "r side to front aga92 make "s pleats & tuck !m 9 9 c5tre front ( wai/1 !n pass r\nd back aga9 to "r side2 cat* up ! :ole drap]y & ?r[ x upw>ds f "r-h& side ( wai/ "u left arm-pit1 pass on r\nd ! back ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ag ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ai ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ai;,a ,! wid? #de0 w drape a tall figure1 say #e' #f0 9 height4 ,! drap]y %\ld be n>r[] = a less] height4 & ov] ! "r %\ld] t[>ds front1 !n ?r[ ! rema9+ portion ( g>m5t across ! *e/ & backw>ds ov] ! left %\ld]2 take corn] a & br+ x r\nd "u "r arm-pit1 release corn] b :i* y fir/ tuck$ 91 & tie x to corn] a4 ,! corn] c w hang d[n 9 a po9t at ! back4 ,to drape ! co/ume on ,fig4 #ag1 :i* dates #acjj ,b4,c41 take ! corn] a ( ,fig4 #ag;,a & hold x at "r side ( wai/ 9 front1 pass r\nd ! back & r\nd ! left side to front aga91 tuck 9 "s pleats 9 c5tre front1 & pass on r\nd ! back to left side ( wai/ "u left arm t[>ds ! front2 cat* up ! entire g>m5t & ?r[ ov] ! "r %\ld]1 pass ! upp] edge ( ! g>m5t r\nd ! back ( ! neck & ov] ! left %\ld] & d[nw>ds across ! brea/ to "r1 :]e ! corn] b %\ld be ti$ to corn] a4 ,corn] d hangs d[n 9 a po9t at ! back4 ,= ,fig4 #ah1 :i* dates #afjj ,b4,c41 take ! corn] a ( ,fig4 #ah;,a & hold x at "r side ( wai/ 9 front1 pass ! edge a-b r\nd back ( wai/ to ! left side & across ! front ( wai/1 pass x r\nd ! "r side aga9 "u ! "r arm t[>ds ! back & upw>ds ov] ! left %\ld]2 tie ! corn] a to corn] b 9 front4 ,= ,fig4 #ai1 :i* dates #eej ,b4,c41 tie a wai/ cord1 hold corn] a ( ,fig4 #ai;,a at left side ( wai/ 9 front1 & ?r[ ! :ole g>m5t upw>ds ov] ! "r %\ld] to ! back2 take ! corn] c1 br+ x r\nd "u ! "r arm1 & hold x along ) ! corn] a2 draw ! edge a-b1 :i* /ill hangs ov] ! "r %\ld]1 d[nw>ds across ! back to left side ( wai/4 ,br+ x r\nd to front ( wai/ & p9 x to ! corn]s a & c at ! left side ( wai/ 9 front1 pass+ ! g>m5t on r\nd ! front2 tuck 9 a few pleats 9 c5tre front into ! wai/ cord1 !n pass x r\nd "r side ( wai/ & upw>ds across ! back ov] ! left %\ld]1 d[nw>ds across ! brea/ to "r side ( wai/2 "h pass a loop ( mat]ial ov] ! left wri/ z %[n 9 diagram2 n[ pass a girdle r\nd ! wai/ ov] ! entire drap]y1 knot x at "r side ( wai/1 conf9+ ! drap]y z illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #ai4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ah ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ah;,a ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bj ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bj;,a ,"h are ?ree o!r v>ieties ( ,egyptian co/ume4 ,fig4 #bj1 :i* dates six? c5tury ,b4,c41 is an arrangem5t ( a cloak worn by a man 7,plan #bj;,a74 ,fig4 #ba %[s an int]e/+ cross-ov] g>m5t %ea?+ ! upp] "p ( ! body1 worn by a ,w>rior ,k+1 #abjj ,b4,c4 ,x 0 probably made ( lea!r or quilt$ l95 7plan1 ,fig4 #ba;,a74 ,?is figure is also we>+ "o ( ! *>act]i/ic belts ) app5dages 7= detail see ,plate ,,ix41 a & b74 ,fig4 #bb1 :i* dates #acjj ,b4,c41 is we>+ a robe1 z previ\sly describ$ on ,fig4 #f1 b 9 addition has a /iff corselet 7,plan #bb;,a7 ( lea!r or quilt$ l95 :i* is fa/5$ at ! side2 ! date ( ?is figure is #acjj ,b4,c4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ba ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bb ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ba;,a ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bb;,a ,a ,,comp>ison ,,! ,,indian 8,,s>i0 ,be=e pass+ f ,egyptian co/ume1 x seems int]e/+ to comp>e ! accompany+ illu/rations ( an ord9>y pres5t-day drap+ worn by wom5 9 ,india4 ,?is long %awl drap]y 7! 8s>i07 pres5ts extraord9>y simil>ities to "s ( ! anci5t ,egyptian %awls or drap]ies already illu/rat$4 ,! me?od ( drap+ is z foll[s3 ,tie a wai/ cord2 take ! corn] b & fix x to ! "r-h& side ( wai/1 !n pass ! edge b-a across ! front ( wai/1 r\nd ! left side t[>ds ! back1 & r\nd ! back ( wai/ aga9 to ! "r side2 n[ take up "s pleats 9 ! drap]y & pu% !m inside ! wai/ cord 9 c5tre front ( wai/1 !n pass on ! drap]y r\nd ! wai/ to back & r\nd to ! "r side aga94 ,n[ cat* up all ! rema9+ drap]y & ?r[ x upw>ds across ! *e/ ov] ! left %\ld]4 ,let ! corn] c hang d[n ! back1 & br+ ! corn] ar\nd t[>ds ! front ( wai/ & tuck x 9 at ! left side ( wai/1 s t x w h ! ?r[n-ov] portion to ! "r ( x4 ,?is completes ?is drap+ ( an ,indian s>i4 ,! wid? ( ?is s>i w drape a figure ( #e' #d01 mo/ ( ^? worn by ,indian wom5 are n>r[]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bc ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bd ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #be ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bc;,a ,l5g? #d ,yds1 wid? #ci 94 ,,anci5t ,,assyrian ,,co/ume ,,g5]al ,,description ,,( ,,anci5t ,,assyrian ,,co/ume ,,cutt+ ,,out ,!re are practically only two types ( g>m5t g5]ally f\nd 9 ! repres5tations ( anci5t ,assyrian co/ume3 7#a7 ! %awl1 & 7#b7 ! tunic4 ,^! v>y 9 size & proportion1 & are worn ei!r alone1 b m g5]ally 9 comb9ation4 ,,decoration ,except 9 ! e>lie/ examples1 decoration is lavi% 9 ,assyrian co/ume2 9 fact1 ! co/ume ( a ,k+ :5 at its ri*e/ may be said to be absolutely cov]$ ) ornam5t4 ,jewell]y1 wov5 & embroid]$ patt]ns1 & fr+es are us$ 9 ! utmo/ pr(usion4 ,see ! illu/rations ( ! mo/ *>act]i/ic ornam5tal details ( ?is /yle4 ,,mat]ial ,! mat]ials us$ seem to h be5 ( l95 & wool4 ,! sk9s & furs ( animals & metal 7 also 9 use1 b *iefly = milit>y & hunt+ co/ume4 ,,dates ,! e>lie/ type ( co/ume "h %[n is a r elaborate %awl drap]y worn )\t any tunic und]nea?4 ,lat] comes ! tunic ) v>i\s fr+$ %awl drap]ies worn 9 addition1 & "s ( ! late/ types h ! tunic worn alone )\t ! %awl drap]ies4 ,! dates giv5 = ! co/umes illu/rat$ 9 ?is /yle h be5 v]ifi$ at ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,x %\ld be rememb]$1 z 9 ! case ( anci5t ,egyptian co/ume1 t ! dresses *ang$ v sl[ly inde$1 & mo/ /yles ( ?is era 7 worn lit]ally = hundr$s ( ye>s4 ,,m5 ,,& ,,wom53 ,,! ,,diff]5ce ,,9 ,,_! ,,dress ,! repres5tations ( co/ume :i* ,assyrian art has left u are almo/ entirely ^? ( m5's dress4 ,two examples ( wom5's dresses are %[n 9 ?is volume4 ,! fir/ we>s a pla9 ungird$ tunic & a simply drap$ %awl cov]+ ! figure p>tially4 ,! second is ! dress ( a ,que51 & has ! tunic almo/ entirely cov]$ ) a volum9\s %awl4 ,! wide belt ) n>r[ belt ov] x seems to be conf9$ to ! m5's co/ume1 z also ! tight] & scanti] %awl drap]ies :i* exi/ 9 s+ul> v>iety4 ,= ,assyrian & ,anci5t ,p]sian ,/yles consult3 ,lay>d's 8,monum5ts ( ,n9eveh02 ,fl&9 & ,co/e1 8,voyage en ,p]se02 ,botta1 8,monum5ts de ,n9ve02 ,victor ,place1 8,n9ve et ,assyrie02 ,p]rot & ,*ipiez1 8,hi/ory ( ,art 9 ,p]sia02 ,rac9et1 8,le ,co/ume ,hi/orique02 ,hott5ro? 8,le ,co/ume04 ,also reproductions & h&books ( ! collections 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,figs4 #bf1 #bg1 & #bh3 ,?is drap]y is f ! figure ( ! ,k+ ,gudea1 #bejj ,b4,c4 7see ,briti% ,museum74 ,to drape1 place ! corn] b ( ,fig4 #bf;,a "u left arm-pit1 & draw ! edge b-a r\nd ! back ( %\ld]s "u ! "r arm-pit1 across ! front ( *e/1 & r\nd ! back aga91 & "u ! "r arm-pit once m2 !n ?r[ ! edge b-a upw>ds across ! *e/ & ov] ! left %\ld]2 ! corn] a w !n hang d[n ! back4 ,take ?is corn] a & tuck x 9 at ! "r side ( brea/1 z %[n 9 illu/ration 7,fig4 #bf74 ,x %\ld be not$ t1 unless ! left h& is rais$1 ! left arm & h& are entirely cov]$ by ?is drap]y1 ! "r arm only be+ left free = movem5t4 ,?is dignifi$ drap]y pres5ts po9ts ( simil>ity to ! ,roman 8toga0 ( a mu* lat] p]iod4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bf ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bg ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bh ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bf;,a ,,plate ,,xi4--,?is type ( dress1 :i* 9 ! ,briti% ,museum is describ$ z worn by 8a ,my?ological ,figure 9 att5dance ^u ,k+ ,assur-nasir-pal01 n9? c5tury ,b4,c41 might be dat$ ab\t #ajjj ,b4,c41 z foll[+ ! usual cu/om ( ! anci5ts :o dress$ _! sacr$ figures 9 ! co/ume ( "s previ\s g5]ation z a rule1 consi/s ( a simple tunic ) %ort sleeves1 & rea*+ to ! knee1 cut 9 simil> fa%ion to ! ,egyptian2 !n a small %awl 7,fig4 #bi;,b7 is wrapp$ r\nd ! hips1 beg9n+ ) ! corn] a on "r hip1 & pass+ ! edge a-b across ! front t[>ds ! left & r\nd ! wai/4 ,! triangle b-e-f c be tuck$ 9 at wai/-l9e2 !n ! wide belt1 probably lea!r1 :i* is col\r$ buff 9 ! illu/ration1 is put on & kept 9 position by ! n>r[ belt1 :i* is col\r$ r$2 ?is belt is mu* bett] se5 9 ,fig4 #cj4 ,la/ly1 ! l>ge %awl 7,fig4 #bi;,a7 has ! corn] b tuck$ 9 to n>r[ belt at left side ( wai/1 & ! edge a-b pass$ r\nd ! back t[>ds ! "r side ( wai/ upw>ds across ! *e/1 & hangs d[n ! back ov] ! left %\ld]4 ,! orig9al ( ?is figure is w+$1 ! w+s be+ omitt$ "h4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bi;,a ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bi;,b ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xi ,m4,g4,h4 del4 ,f4,s4,h4 p9x4 ,,my?ological ,,p]sonage ,fig4 #cj repres5ts ,k+ ,assur-nasir-pal 7n9? c5tury ,b4,c47 we>+ a tunic ( simil> type to ,plate ,,xi41 b long4 ,ti$ at 8 wai/ & cov]+ ! back half ( 8 figure is a small ri*ly decorat$ %awl ab\t #bj in*es squ>e4 ,note ! tassels hang+ f "r-h& bottom corn]2 ^! w\ld be ! same on ! left-h& bottom corn]4 ,he also we>s ! belt m5tion$ 9 connection ) ,plate ,,xi4 ,! wavy tassels :i* look l horsehair hang f 8 sword belt2 a tassel also hangs f ! back ( 8 necklace1 & two ribbons f 8 cap-b&4 ,note ! simil>ity ( ?is cap to ! s-call$ fez or t>bu% worn 9 ,assyria at ! pres5t day4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cj ,fig4 #ca3 ,! po9t to be not$ 9 ?is figure is ! arrangem5t ( a fr+e drap]y :i* goes once r\nd ! wai/1 is ?r[n ov] "o %\ld]1 & hangs d[n ! back4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ca ,fig4 #cb3 ,?is man1 9 hunt+ dress1 n9? c5tury ,b4,c41 has a small sc>f1 fr+$ only at ! ends1 wrapp$ tightly r\nd ! limbs1 rea*+ to ! knee4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cb ,fig4 #cc3 ,?is woman1 a captive ( ,s5na*]ib :o reign$ 9 eigh? & sev5? c5turies ,b4,c41 we>s a long tunic1 & ov] x a long %awl fr+$ at ! two ends & measur+ #ej0 #hj04 ,to drape ?is %awl1 place "o corn] "u ! left arm-pit & draw x across ! back "u ! "r arm-pit1 wrapp+ x once r\nd ! body2 draw x across ! back & up ov] "r %\ld]4 ,a corn] ( ! fr+$ end w hang d[n 9 front ( ! "r %\ld]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cc ,,plate ,,xii4 ,plate ,,xii4 %[s a numb] ( *>act]i/ic ,assyrian ornam5ts4 a1 ,! sacr$ tree4 b1 c1 d1 e1 f1 ,repeat+ patt]ns on co/umes4 g1 h1 i1 j1 k1 l1 ,bord]s on co/umes4 m1 ,"o ( ! _m rosettes mu* us$ 9 ,assyrian decorations4 ,^! %\ld be comp>$ ) ! decorat$ co/umes %[n 9 ! plates2 !y w\ld be ei!r wov5 or embroid]$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xii ,f4,s4,h4 fec4 ,,details ,,( ,,decoration ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cd;,a ,,plate ,,xiii4--,a facsimile draw+1 f an enamel tile1 is "o ( ! _m repres5tations ( ! ,k+ ,assur-nasir-pal1 n9? c5tury ,b4,c4 ,! description ( 8 dress w be bett] und]/ood by ref]r+ to ,figs4 #cd1 #ce1 & #cf4 ,! ,k+ we>s ov] 8 long tunic a v beautiful & dignifi$ %awl drap]y1 :i* is fr+$1 recall+ c]ta9 ,egyptian types already illu/rat$1 &1 inde$1 has po9ts ( simil>ity ) c]ta9 ,greek & ,roman drap]ies4 ,to drape ?is %awl 7see ,fig4 #cd;,a7 fold ov] on ! l9e e-f s t e-f1 a-b1 hangs d[n outside2 !n atta* ! cord e-g z illu/rat$1 & hold g at "r side ( wai/ 9 front1 ?r[+ ! re/ ( ! %awl backw>ds ov] ! "r %\ld]4 ,draw ! edge e-f r\nd ! back ( neck1 & =m a ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xiii ,m4,g4,h4 del4 ,f4,s4,h4 p9x4 ,,k+ ,,assur-,,nasir-,,pal sl+ ov] ! left arm1 z %[n4 ,to complete ! drap+1 cont9ue to pass ! edge e-f r\nd ! wai/ t[>ds ! "r1 pass+ "u ! "r elb[1 !n on r\nd ! back & left side until x rea*es ab\t #f in*es 9 front ( left side ( wai/2 n[ fold ! rema9d] ( drap]y und]nea?1 z %[n 9 ! draw+s1 & tie a cord r\nd wai/ to keep all firmly 9 position2 knot ! end ( ! cord e-g to ?is wai/ cord4 ,fig4 #ce %[s ! back view1 & ,fig4 #cf %[s ! drap]y ?r[n (f ! left %\ld] to give fre$om to bo? arms1 ,figs4 #cd & #ce only giv+ fre$om to ! "r arm4 ,if ! cord e-g is pull$ d[n s t e t\*es ! wai/1 !n bo? %\ld]s w be cov]$ by ! drap]y4 ,fig4 #cd is ! mo/ usual arrangem5t ( ?is type ( drap]y1 b 9 look+ at ,plate ,,xiii4 closely x w be se5 t ! mod]n draw+ 7,fig4 #cg7 is a m exact r5d]+4 ,?is draw+ is f a drap+ ( ! same %awl z ,fig4 #cd is we>+1 b ! fold-ov] is some:at deep]1 ! po9t e is ti$ closely to wai/ belt1 & ! drap]y is roll$ at wai/ :ile x is be+ adju/$4 ,:5 worn ?us1 ) a roll1 ! drap]y w rema9 9 position )\t ! wai/ cord be+ ti$ ov] x1 b x is m secure :5 x has be5 ?us conf9$4 ,fig4 #ch is /ill ano!r v>iety ( ?is type ( drap+1 & is tak5 f a small /atue ( ,assur-nasir-pal 9 ! ,briti% ,museum2 !re we h two %awls1 "o squ>e & "o semicircul> 7see ,figs4 #ch;,a & #ch;,b74 ,to arrange ?is drap]y1 take ! squ>e %awl & fold outw>ds ab\t #bj in*es1 z at e-f4 ,tie a wai/ cord on ! tunic1 & tuck ! corn] ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cd ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ce ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cf f deeply into x at left side ( wai/ cord2 !n draw tightly r\nd ! figure 9 front & r\nd aga9 across ! back ( wai/ till ! left side is rea*$ aga94 ,n[ d\ble ab\t #f in*es ( ! %awl inw>ds1 & tuck aga9 into wai/ cord4 ,take ! semicircul> %awl g-h1 & atta* ! cord to ano!r wai/ cord1 ?r[ backw>ds ov] ! "r %\ld]1 & arrange a sl+ ov] ! left arm z be=e 9 ,figs4 #cd & #cg4 ,! corn] h ( ! %awl %[s 9 front ab\t #h in*es bel[ ! wai/ t[>ds ! left4 ,tie ! second wai/ cord tightly ov] ?is %awl to keep 9 position4 ,,note ,,on ,,! ,,col\r+ ,,( ,,anci5t ,,assyrian ,,& ,,p]sian ,,co/umes ,?\gh we d n possess ! actual specim5s ( ^! co/umes1 /ill we c inf] f ! lavi% ornam5t1 &1 f ref]5ces 9 ! ,hebrew ,old ,te/am5t writ+s1 t ri* col\r+ prevail$4 ,! dyes 7 probably simil> to ^? ( anci5t ,egypt1 & ?is table w sugge/ ! p>ticul> hue ( ea* col\r3 ,,anci5t ,,egyptian ,,& ,,assyrian ,,dye ,,col\rs ,blue3 ,usually r a d>k indigo1 sometimes pal]4 ,r$3 ,mu* l ! col\r kn[n z ,indian r$4 ,yell[3 ,simil> to yell[ o*re4 ,gre53 ,mu* l ! pa9t kn[n z gre5 bice1 b r m dull4 ,purple3 ,d>k1 & q a br[ni% hue ( purple4 ,all ^! col\rs c\ld be us$ z embroid]ies on a :ite or natural col\r$ gr\nd ( l951 ! embroid]ies be+ ( wool4 ,9 o!r cases ! :ole g>m5t might be col\r$ ?r\gh\t4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cg ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ch ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ch;,a ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ch;,b ,fig4 #ci is ! tunic ( ,k+ ,assur-bani-pal1 sev5? c5tury ,b4,c4 ,x w be notic$ t x is cut v mu* 9 ! same mann] z ! ,egyptian tunic2 ! neck op5+1 :i* is a slit l>ge en\gh to admit ! head1 does n %[ 9 ! draw+1 b ?ree buttons on ei!r side ( neck w be se54 ,a r[ ( fr+e decorates ! bottom1 & ! :ole is ri*ly embroid]$2 ov] ?is tunic 7 worn ! wide & n>r[ belts4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ci ,,plate ,,xiv4 ,plate ,,xiv4 is ! ,que5 ( ,assur-bani-pal1 sev5? c5tury ,b4,c4 ,%e we>s a simil> tunic to ! ,k+1 b ! sleeves rea* half-way d[n ! l[] arm2 h] %awl1 :i* is fr+$ all r\nd1 w\ld measure #ej0 #acj04 ,x is wrapp$ once r\nd ! l[] limbs1 & s cov]s ! bottom ( h] tunic2 x is !n w\nd r\nd ! upp] "p ( h] body 9 simil> fa%ion to t ( ! woman on p4 #ei1 save t x goes 9 ! opposite direction4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xiv ,m4,g4,h4 del4 ,f4,s4,h4 p9x4 ,,que5 ,,( ,,assur-,,bani-,,pal ,,plate ,,xv4 ,plate ,,xv4 %[s fur!r details ( ,assyrian decoration2 att5tion may be p>ticul>ly drawn to ! v>i$ =ms ( ! tassels4 a1 b1 c1 ,bracelets4 d1 e1 f1 ,e>-r+s4 g1 h1 i1 j1 ,tassels f co/umes & h>ness on horses4 k1 ,w+$ globe4 l1 ,palm tree4 m1 ,lappet ( a ,k+'s ti>a4 n1 ,bronze vessel4 o1 ,sword h&le4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xv ,f4,s4,h4 fec4 ,,details ,,( ,,decoration ,,anci5t ,,p]sian ,,co/ume ,,g5]al ,,description ,,( ,,anci5t ,,p]sian ,,co/ume ,,also ,,includ+ ,,two ,,examples ,,f ,,captive ,,nations ,,cutt+ ,,out ,! g>m5ts illu/rat$ 9 ?is /yle are ( f\r types2 ( ^!1 ?ree h already appe>$ 9 ! two previ\s /yles--namely1 ! type ( ! tunic1 ! type ( ! robe1 & ! type ( ! %awl or drap]y4 ,9 anci5t ,p]sian co/ume we come = ! fir/ "t to type five3 ! coat4 ,we may ref] "h also = ! fir/ "t to ! we>+ ( tr\s]s1 = ^! are usually %[n worn ) ! coats 9 anci5t ,p]sian co/ume1 & a diagram is giv5 on p4 #hf %[+ "o ( ! e>lie/ kn[n me?ods ( cutt+ ^! g>m5ts4 ,,decoration ,anci5t ,p]sian decoration 0 s exce$+ly simil> to anci5t ,assyrian t x does n seem necess>y to illu/rate x4 ,we d n f9d1 h[ev]1 t anci5t ,p]sian g>m5ts 7 ornam5t$ to any?+ l ! same ext5t z anci5t ,assyrian2 ! frequ5t fr+es ( ! anci5t ,assyrian co/umes 7 n ne>ly s lavi%ly employ$ 9 ! anci5t ,p]sian /yle4 ,,mat]ial ,l95 & wool 7 mo/ probably ! *ief mat]ials us$ 9 anci5t ,p]sian co/ume1 b !re are indications t lea!r may h be5 r ext5sively employ$ 9 ! m tight-fitt+ g>m5ts4 ,x mu/ n be tak5 t ei!r 9 ,assyrian or anci5t ,p]sian dress ! g>m5ts fitt$ z smoo?ly & tightly z might be imag9$ f ! sculptur$ & pa9t$ repres5tations2 x is true folds are sometimes indicat$1 b ! *ief conc]n ( ! arti/s ( bo? /yles 0 to %[ ! human figure & ri*ly decorative ornam5t4 ,,dates ,! illu/rations "h giv5 ( anci5t ,p]sian co/umes date ab\t ! six? & fif? c5turies ,b4,c4 ) two ( neighb\r+ nations dat+ eigh? c5tury ,b4,c4 & six? & fif? c5turies ,b4,c4 respectively4 ,,m5 ,,& ,,wom53 ,,! ,,diff]5ce ,,9 ,,_! ,,dress ,!re is n suffici5t in=mation to =m a def9ite picture ( ! wom5's dress ( ?is p]iod & /yle2 mo/ probably x 0 a simple tunic & %awl l t worn 9 ,assyria1 b an int]e/+ fact is t we h a repres5tation ( ! ,que5 ( a ,p]sian ,k+ :o reign$ 9 ! fif? c5tury ,a4,d4 :o is we>+ tr\s]s1 :i*1 x w be rememb]$1 are worn by ,p]sian wom5 ( ! pres5t day4 ,9 ?is connection x may be not$ t ! hi/ory ( co/ume1 z develop$ ?r\gh ! use ( wov5 mat]ials1 pres5ts a mu* m simple aspect ?an ! hi/ory ( ^? /yles be>+ evid5ces ( hav+ be5 fir/ cut f lea!r4 ,a mom5t's reflection w make x cle> t 9 ! case ( wov5 /uffs ! mo/ economical sy/em ( cutt+1 & inde$ ! mo/ obvi\s1 = ! primitive dress fa%ion]1 0 bas$ on ! rectangle4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ! fa%ion] ( lea!r g>m5ts w\ld naturally try to fit ! human body )1 z x 71 a second sk91 h5ce tr\s]s & tight-fitt+ jackets may appe> 9 v e>ly civilizations4 ,= li/ ( au?orities see ,anci5t ,assyrian ,co/ume4 ,,plate ,,xvi4 is a repres5tation ( ,d>ius1 ,k+ ( ,p]sia1 six? & fif? c5turies ,b4,c42 he is we>+ ! ,m$ian 8,robe ( ,hon\r40 ,x w be se5 f ! plan 7,fig4 #dj;,a7 t ?is robe is sewn up ea* side1 leav+ a space ( #bj in*es on ei!r side = ! h&s4 ,l ! ,egyptian robe1 ! mat]ial requir$ is twice ! height ( ! figure1 ! mat]ial is d\bl$1 a neck-hole cut1 & ! g>m5t is pull$ on ov] ! head4 ,! ,p]sian or ,m$ian me?od ( we>+ ! g>m5t is unique3 a girdle is tightly b\nd r\nd ! wai/1 & !n ! robe is pull$ up at ei!r side ov] ! girdle s z to produce ! v elegant effect %[n 9 ,plate ,,xvi4 & ,fig4 #dj1 :i* is a mod]n draw+ ( ! front view ( ,plate ,,xvi41 ! result giv+ great fre$om to ! arms4 ,! ,k+ seems to h two robes ( ! same cut1 "o "u ! o!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dj;,a ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dj ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xvi ,m4,g4,h4 del4 ,f4,s4,h4 p9x4 ,,d>ius1 ,,k+ ,,( ,,p]sia ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #da;,a ,to arrange ! drap]y1 dat+ six? to fif? c5turies ,b4,c41 on ,fig4 #da1 take ! corn] b ( ,fig4 #da;,a 9 ! left h&1 lett+ ! re/ ( ! drap]y fall d[n ! back1 draw ! edge b-a across ! back1 !n "u ! "r arm-pit across ! *e/1 & ?r[ ! corn] a upw>ds & ov] ! left %\ld]2 a w hang d[n ! back4 ,x w be not$ t ?is g>m5t is weight$ at ! corn]s2 ?is keeps x 9 position4 ,fig4 #db is a mod]n draw+ %[+ ! g>m5t 9 front view4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #db ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #da ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dc;,a ,fig4 #dc1 dat+ eigh? c5tury ,b4,c41 is we>+ cloak 7see ,fig4 #dc;,a7 p>tly fr+$4 ,x is worn mu* 9 ! same mann] z ,fig4 #da1 b 9 ,fig4 #dc ! corn] a is ?r[n backw>ds ov] ! left %\ld]1 & ! edge a-b is pass$ across ! *e/ & "u ! "r arm-pit1 !n drawn across ! back1 & ! corn] b falls d[n 9 front ( ! left %\ld]4 ,?is co/ume is n ,p]sian1 b t ( "s nation to ! ea/ ( ,p]sia 9 nor!rn ,asia ,m9or4 ,! we>+ ( boots ) upturn$ toes z "h %[n seems to h ext5d$ f ,p]sia across nor!rn ,asia ,m9or to ! ,m$it]ranean ev5 z f> we/ z ,italy4 ,fig4 #dd is a mod]n draw+ %[+ ! g>m5t 9 front view4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dd ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dc ,fig4 #de is we>+ a %ort-sleev$ coat ov] a tunic4 ,! edg+ %[n is probably uncut fr+e2 9 reality x w\ld n fit ! figure neatly1 z ! anci5t arti/ has indicat$1 b w\ld hang r loosely4 ,fig4 #de;,a %[s ! me?od ( cutt+4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #de;,a ,! co/ume is consid]$ to be t ( a ,jewi% captive ( ! ,p]sian conqu]or & dates six? to fif? c5turies ,b4,c4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #de ,fig4 #df1 :i* dates six? to fif? c5turies ,b4,c41 is we>+ ov] a tunic & tr\s]s 7see ,fig4 #df;,b7 an ov]coat ) a set-9 sleeve 7see ,fig4 #df;,b71 turn$-ov] coll> & cuffs1 & ti$ 9 front ) ribbons4 ,! plan 7,fig4 #df;,a7 %[s "o ( ! e>lie/ kn[n me?ods ( sett+ 9 ! sleeve2 ! coll> 9 ?is plan is repres5t$ turn$ =w>d & ly+ flat4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #df;,a ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #df;,b ,! tunic worn by ?is figure1 "u 8 long ov]coat1 & also ! tr\s]s w\ld mo/ probably be ( lea!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #df 99 99 99 99 99 ,,peeps ,,at ,,anci5t ,,civilizations ,,new ,,volumes ,,9 ,,! 8,,peeps ,,at ,,_m ,,l&s0 ,,s]ies ,,anci5t ,,assyria ,,anci5t ,,egypt ,,anci5t ,,greece ,,anci5t ,,rome ,by ,,rev4 ,,james ,,baikie1 ,f4,r4,a4,s4 ,ea* conta9+ ,sixte5 ,full-page ,illu/rations1 ,eight ( !m 9 ,col\r ,,l>ge ,,cr[n #hvo4 ,,) ,,picture ,,cov]4 ,,price #b_/f ,,net ,,p] ,,volume 99 99 99 99 99 ,! 8,peeps0 ,s]ies1 writt5 prim>ily = "y p1 giv+ glimpses ( ! sc5]y ( v>i\s c\ntries ) ! life & mann]s ( ! p1 n[ includes sixty volumes1 all ( :i* h prov$ exce$+ly popul>4 ,?is new gr\p deals ) ! l&s ( ! old] civilizations1 & ! aim ( ! writ] has be5 9 ea* case to put be=e 8 read]s a s]ies ( pictures ( ! v>i\s aspects ( life 9 ! great days ( ea* c\ntry4 ,= example1 ! c\ntry1 developm5t1 & _s ( ! p ( ,anci5t ,assyria are %[n :5 t nation 0 ! greate/ 9 ! ,anci5t ,_w1 & x is po9t$ out t _! l& 0 ! cradle ( civilization4 ,! spl5d\r ( ! ,c\rt ( ,anci5t ,egypt1 ! a*ievem5ts ( ! ,egyptians 9 exploration1 conque/1 art1 ar*itecture1 & sci5ce are indicat$1 & special /ress has be5 laid ^u ! depiction ( *ild life & its surr\nd+s4 ,anci5t ,greece is depict$ :5 ! nation 0 at ! summit ( its glory & a*ievem5t1 :ile its mat*less art & ! effect ( ! univ]sal preval5ce ( a?letic tra9+ 9 ! physical developm5t ( ! race are giv5 special prom95ce4 ,deal+ ) ,anci5t ,rome ! writ] recon/ructs ! e>ly ,empire & ! ,imp]ial ,city at ! "t ( its greate/ spl5d\r1 & we are conduct$ 9 _s to ! ,*>iot ,races at ! ,circus ,maximus & ! ,gladiatorial ,sports at ! ,colosseum4 ,! illu/rations 9 ! volumes fai?fully depict ! life & co/ume ( ! p]iod & include examples ( ! pictorial & sculptur$ art1 ! ar*itecture1 & "s imag9ative sc5es f ! leg5ds ( ^? old days4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,publi%$ ,,by ,a4 ,c4 ,,black1 ,,ltd41 #d1 #e #f ,,soho ,,squ>e1 ,,london1 ,w4 #a 99 99 99 99 99 ,,o!r ,,volumes ,,by ,,rev4 ,,james ,,baikie1 ,f4,r4,a4,s4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,l&s ,,& ,,peoples ,,( ,,! ,,bible ,a ,,h&book ,,= ,,bible ,,/ud5ts ,cr[n #hvo41 clo? b\nd4 ,conta9+ #dh ,full-,page ,illu/rations f ,photographs4 ,daily ,news4--8,?is is a book ( great int]e/40 ,ed9burgh ,ev5+ ,news4--8,mr4 ,baikie has a cle> & graphic /yle1 & altoge!r ?is book is a well-writt5 & up-to-date summ>y cov]+ a wide field40 ,liv]pool ,c\ri]4--8,a volume he>tily to be comm5d$40 99 99 99 99 99 ,,! ,,/ory ,,( ,,! ,,ph>aohs ,a ,,%ort ,,hi/ory ,,( ,,anci5t ,,egypt ,l>ge ,cr[n #hvo41 clo? b\nd4 ,conta9+ #cb ,full-,page ,illu/rations f ,photographs1 & #di ,illu/rations 9 ! ,text4 ,ox=d ,magaz9e4--8,:ile ! late/ conclusions ( ar*ological inve/igation are embodi$ 9 ! n>rative1 all unnecess>y details are omitt$1 & ! /ory fl[s on ) ease & rapidity40 ,ab]de5 ,free ,press4--8,at once popul> & s*ol>ly1 & ( great s]vice4 ,! ma9 facts h be5 wov5 into a n>rative ( m>vell\s vividness 9 :i* accuracy has n 9 ! lea/ be5 sacrific$ to effect40 99 99 99 99 99 ,,! ,,sea-,,k+s ,,( ,,crete ,,& ,,! ,,prehi/oric ,,civilization ,,( ,,greece ,l>ge ,cr[n #hvo41 clo?4 ,conta9+ #cb ,full-,page ,illu/rations f ,photographs4 ,! writ]'s aim 9 ?is volume has be5 to pres5t to ! g5]al read]1 9 an unte*nical & readable =m1 ! results ( ! v>i\s explorations :i* h rec5tly done s mu* to enl>ge our k ( ! great prehi/oric civilization :i* prec$$ t ( classic ,greece1 & on ^: ru9s ,greek culture1 z we "k x1 arose4 ,! anci5t leg5ds po9t+ to ! exi/5ce ( a great sea-p[] 9 prehi/oric ,crete are n>rat$1 & a %ort acc\nt is giv5 ( ! civilization assum$ 9 ! ,hom]ic poems4 ,!reaft]1 ! "w ( ,s*liemann1 lead+ to ! discov]y ( ! ,myc5an culture1 is briefly describ$1 &1 turn+ to ,crete itself1 an acc\nt is giv5 ( ! rem>kable discov]ies at ,knossos1 ,ph/os1 & else:]e1 :i* h reveal$ ! relics ( ! wond]ful empire ( ! ,m9oan sea-k+s ) its advanc$ civilization4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,publi%$ ,,by ,a4 ,c4 ,,black1 ,,ltd41 #d1 #e #f ,,soho ,,squ>e1 ,,london1 ,w4 #a