,,! ,,jacqu>d ,,ma*9e ,analyz$ & ,expla9$3 ,,) ,,an ,,app5dix ,,on ,,! ,,prep>ation ,,( ,,jacqu>d ,,c>ds1 ,,& ,,practical ,,h9ts ,,to ,,le>n]s ,,( ,,jacqu>d ,,design+4 ,,by ,e4 ,a4 ,,posselt1 ,head ,ma/]1 ,textile ,dep>tm5t1 ,p5nsylvania ,museum & ,s*ool ( ,indu/rial ,art1 ,no4 #accf ,spr+ ,g>d5 ,/reet4 ,) #bcj ,illu/rations4 ,,philadelphia1 ,,pa43 ,,publi%$ ,,"u ,,! ,,auspices ,,( ,,! ,,s*ool4 #ahhh4 ,copyright$1 #ahhg1 ,,by ,e4 ,a4 ,,posselt4 ,press ( ,d&o ,pr9t+ & ,publi%+ ,co41 #cd ,s4 ,?ird ,/41 ,philadelphia4 ,photo-,engrav+s by ,! ,levytype ,company1 ,philadelphia4 ,,table ,,( ,,cont5ts4 ,,page4 ,hi/ory ( ! ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e1 #g ,! ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e--,g5]al ,arrangem5t & ,application1 #i ,illu/ration ( ! diff]5t p>ts ( ! ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e--,me?od ( ,op]ation1 etc41 #aa ,! ,jacqu>d ,h>ness--,! ,comb]-bo>ds1 #bj ,ty+-up ( ,jacqu>d ,h>ness1 #bc ,i4--,/raight-?r\gh ,tie-up1 #bc ,,ii4--,/raight-?r\gh ,tie-up = ,repeat$ ,effects1 9 "o ,repeat ( ! ,design1 #bi ,,iii4--,/raight-?r\gh ,tie-up ( ,jacqu>d ,loom1 hav+ ,front ,h>ness atta*$1 #ca ,,iv4--,c5tre ,tie-up1 #cc ,v4--,/raight-?r\gh & ,po9t ,tie-ups ,comb9$1 #ce ,,vi4--,/raight-?r\gh ,tie-up 9 ,two ,sections1 #dh ,,vii4--,ty+-up a ,jacqu>d ,h>ness = ,figur+ ,"p ( ! ,design ) an ,extra ,w>p1 #ea ,,viii4--,/raight-?r\gh ,tie-up 9 ,?ree ,sections1 #ec ,,ix4--,po9t ,tie-up 9 ,?ree ,sections1 #ee ,x4--,comb9ation ,tie-up 9 ,two ,sections1 #ef ,,xi4--,/raight-?r\gh ,tie-up 9 ,f\r ,sections1 #eg ,,xii4--,ty+-up ( ,jacqu>d ,looms ) ,comp\nd ,h>ness atta*$1 #eh ,,xiii4--,ty+-up ,jacqu>d ,looms = ,gauze ,fabrics1 #fd ,modifications ( ! ,s+le ,lift ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e1 #fg ,i4--,d\ble ,lift ,s+le ,cyl9d] ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e1 #fg ,,ii4--,d\ble ,lift ,d\ble ,cyl9d] ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e1 #fi ,,iii4--,sub/itution ( ,tail-cords = ,hooks1 #ga ,ty+-up ( ,jacqu>d ,h>ness = ,two-ply ,+ra9 ,c>pet1 #gb ,g5]al ,description ( ! ,con/ruction ( ! ,fabric1 #gb ,/raight-?r\gh ,tie-up = ,+ra9 ,c>pet1 #gd ,po9t ,tie-up = ,+ra9 ,c>pet1 #gh ,,app5dix4 ,prep>+ & ,/amp+ ( ,jacqu>d ,c>ds1 #he ,dobby ,c>d ,pun*+ ,ma*9es1 #hf ,piano ,c>d ,/amp+ ,ma*9es1 #hf ,/amp+ ( ,c>ds1 #ia ,repeat+ ,jacqu>d ,c>ds by ! ,positive ,action ,repeat]1 #ib ,lac+ ( ,jacqu>d ,c>ds1 #ig ,lac+ ( ,jacqu>d ,c>ds by ,h&1 #ig ,lac+ ( ,jacqu>d ,c>ds by ,ma*9e1 #ih ,,practical ,,h9ts ,,to ,,le>n]s ,,( ,,jacqu>d ,,design+4 ,squ>$ ,design+ ,pap] = ! diff]5t ,textile ,fabrics execut$ on ! ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e1 #ajc ,practical ,use ( ! ,heavy ,squ>e 9 ,design+ ,pap]1 #aje ,selection ( ,design+ ,pap] = ,s+le ,clo?1 #aje ,selection ( ,design+ ,pap] = ,d\ble ,clo?1 #ajf ,selection ( ,design+ ,pap] = ,two-ply ,+ra9 ,c>pet1 #ajf ,selection ( ! ,prop] ,bru% = ! diff]5t ,o ,design+ ,pap]s1 #ajg ,colors us$ = ,pa9t+ ,textile ,designs1 #ajg ,pres]vation ( ,textile ,designs1 #ajg ,sket*+ ( ,designs = ,textile ,fabrics to be execut$ on ! ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e1 #ajh ,me?ods ( ,sett+ ! ,figures1 #ajh ,size ( ,sket* ,requir$1 #aji ,enl>g+ & ,r$uc+ ,figures = ,sket*es1 #aaj ,transf]r+ ( ! ,sket* to ! ,squ>$ ,design+ ,pap]1 #aab ,outl9+ 9 ,squ>es1 #aac ,rules = ,outl9+ 9 ,squ>es ,inside or ,outside ! ,draw+ ,outl9e1 #aad ,illu/ration ( a ,sket*--,outl9+ on ,o ,pap]--,f9i%$ ,design--,fabric ,sample 7,s+le ,clo?71 #aae ,designs = ,damask ,fabrics to be execut$ on a ,jacqu>d ,loom1 ) ,comp\nd ,h>ness atta*$1 #aaf ,designs = ,two-ply ,+ra9 ,c>pet1 #aaf ,designs = ,dressgoods ,figur$ ) ,extra ,w>p1 #aag ,designs = ,figur$ ,pile ,fabrics1 #aah ,! ,%ad+ ( ,textile ,fabrics by ! ,weave1 #aah ,gloss>y1 #aba ,,preface4 ,v little has be5 writt5 ^u ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 & ! fabrics produc$ by x2 & no?+ at all has be5 h]et(ore publi%$ 9 ?is c\ntry ) reg>d to ! ma*9es & sy/ems1 z employ$ "h4 ,greatly assi/$ by ! guidance1 help & advice ( ,mr4 ,t4 ,c4 ,se>*1 ,presid5t ( ! ,philadelphia ,textile ,association1 & ,vice-,presid5t & ,*airman ( ! ,committee ( ,in/ruction ( ! ,p5nsylvania ,museum & ,s*ool ( ,indu/rial ,art1 ! au?or gives "h ! results ( 8 practical exp]i5ce on ?is subject1 ) a v detail$ description ( ! me?ods ( proc$ure ) ! ,jacqu>d & accompany+ ma*9es1 9 ! diff]5t bran*es ( ,textile ,manufacture4 ,e4 ,a4 ,,posselt4 ,philadelphia1 ,pa41 #ahhh4 ,,hi/ory ,,( ,,! ,,jacqu>d ,,ma*9e4 ,! ,jacqu>d ma*9e 0 nam$ aft] ,joseph ,m>ie ,jacqu>d4 ,jacqu>d 0 born 9 ,lyons1 ,france1 on ! #g? ( ,july1 #ageb4 ,8 p>5ts 7 employ$ 9 ! manufacture ( silk fabrics4 ,! fir/ trade ,jacqu>d le>n$ 0 book-b9d+2 type-f\nd+ & cutl]y foll[+ successively4 ,he 0 #bj ye>s ( age :5 8 fa!r di$1 leav+ him a small h\se & h&-loom 9 ! village ( ,cauzon1 ne> ,lyons4 ,he comm5c$ to inv5t diff]5t improvem5ts 9 ! l9e ( weav+1 b )\t o!r success ?an accumulat+ debt1 compell+ him to e>n ! liv+ = himself & family1 fir/ 9 a pla/] qu>ry at ,bugey1 ne> ,lyons1 aft]w>ds by work+ at cutl]y1 type-f\nd+ & weav+ 9 ,lyons4 ,9 #agib he jo9$ ! ,revolutioni/s1 & aft] 8 return 9 ! foll[+ ye> he & 8 son assi/$ 9 ! def5ce ( ,lyons aga9/ ! ,army ( ! ,conv5tion1 b left :5 8 son 0 kill$ ne> him 9 battle4 ,lyons ,c\ncil (f]$ him a room1 = work+ on improvem5ts = weav+ at ! 8,palace ( ! ,f9e ,arts10 ) ! condition t he %\ld in/ruct s*ol>s free ( *>ge4 ,dur+ 8 /ay !re ! ,society ( ,arts1 9 ,london1 (f]$ a rew>d = a ma*9e = mak+ fi%+ nets4 ,jacqu>d succe$$ 9 p]fect+ x1 b _h to travel "u protection to ,p>is1 :]e he _h to %[ & expla9 8 ma*9e be=e ! 8,cons]vatorium ( ,arts & ,trades40 ,on ! #b;d ( ,febru>y1 #ahjd1 ,jacqu>d receiv$ #cjjj francs1 & ! gold m$al f ! ,london ,society1 & also an engagem5t 9 ! ,cons]vatorium ( ,arts1 9 ,p>is4 ,"h he f\nd opportunity = mak+ improvem5ts on 8 weav+ ma*9e1 by ! /udy ( ! old] inv5tions ( ,b\*on1 ,falcon & ,vancanson4 ,m4 ,b\*on1 9 #agbe1 employ$ a b& ( pi]c$ pap] press$ by a h&-b> aga9/ a r[ ( horizontal wires1 s z to pu% =w>d ^? :i* happ5$ to lie opposite ! blank spaces1 & ?us br+ loops at ! l[] extremity ( v]tical wires 9 connection ) a comb-l rack bel[4 ,m4 ,falcon submitt$ 9 #agbh a *a9 ( c>ds1 & a squ>e prism1 kn[n z ! cyl9d]1 9 lieu ( ! b& ( pap] ( ,b\*on4 ,9 #agde1 ,jacques de ,vancanson suppress$ altoge!r ! cumbr\s tail-c>ds ( ! draw-loom1 & made ! loom completely self-act+ by plac+ ! pi]c$ pap] or c>d ^u ! surface ( a l>ge pi]c$ cyl9d]1 :i* travel$ backw>ds & =w>ds at ea* /roke1 & revolv$ ?r\gh a small angle by rat*et "w4 ,he also inv5t$ ! ris+ & fall+ griffe1 & ?us made a ma*9e v ne>ly resembl+ ! actual ,jacqu>d4 ,jacqu>d return$ to ,lyons 9 ! ye> #ahjd to take *>ge ( ! "w-h\se4 ,dur+ 8 /ay at ?is place he f9i%$ 8 ma*9e4 ,he 0 an exp]i5c$ workman1 comb9+ toge!r ! be/ p>ts ( ! ma*9es ( 8 pr$ecessors 9 ! same l9e1 & succe$$ z ! fir/ p]son 9 obta9+ an arrangem5t suffici5tly practical to be g5]ally employ$4 ,9 #ahjf ,napoleon ,buonap>te *ang$ 8 position1 giv+ him an annuity ( #cjjj francs1 b compell+ him to transf] 8 inv5tion to ! city ( ,lyons1 z well z any fur!r inv5tions4 ,until #ahaj ,jacqu>d _h great tr\bles1 z 8 ma*9e 0 n und]/ood by ! weav]s4 ,s viol5t 0 ! opposition made to its introduction t he 0 compell$ to leave ,lyons 9 ord] to save 8 life4 ,! ,conseil des ,prudhommes broke up 8 ma*9es 9 ! public places1 & ,jacqu>d 0 deliv]$ ov] to univ]sal ignom9y4 ,b aft] "s ye>s _h pass$ ! ma*9e prov$ to be ( ! greate/ value1 & on ! spot :]e ! model 0 de/roy$ a /atue to ,jacqu>d n[ /&s4 ,he di$ ,augu/ #g?1 #ahcd1 9 ,quill9s1 ne> ,lyons1 at #hb ye>s ( age4 ,at ! "t ( 8 dea? ov] #cj1jjj ,jacqu>d ma*9es 7 9 op]ation 9 8 native city4 ,illu/ration ,! ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e4--,g5]al ,arrangem5t & ,application4 ,if a fabric conta9s a great numb] ( ends ( w>p b\nd diff]5tly 9 ! fill+1 ! me?od ( guid+ ! w>p by h>ness frames is too cumbr\s & ineffici5t2 9 su* cases x becomes necess>y to use ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e = rais+ ! w>p-?reads sep>ately by means ( hook & lea%4 ,! hooks z us$ = rais+ lea%1 mail1 l+o1 & w>p-?read1 consi/ ( wires #af to #ag in*es long1 ) a crook on ea* end4 ,on ! l[] crook is fa/5$ ! lea% by means ( ! neck-cord4 ,! cords ( ea* lea% are ?read$ ?r\gh ! holes ( ! comb]-bo>d2 ! latt] are sep>at$ f ea* o!r accord+ to ! texture ( ! w>p 9 re$4 ,on ! h>ness-cords are adju/$ ! h$dles1 7ei!r tw9e or wire71 on :i* are fa/5$ ! l+oes z weights4 ,9 ! mails ( ! h$dles are drawn ! w>p-?reads4 ,n[1 f ! =ego+ explanations1 x w be app>5t t by rais+ ! hook 9 ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e we raise ! lea%1 & ! latt] raises e w>p-?read ?r\gh\t ! fabric = int]lac+ ) ! fill+4 ,! next po9t requir$ to be kn[n is1 :i* hooks are to be rais$1 & :i* are to be l[]$8 ,to regulate ?is1 a design 7patt]n7 is prep>$ 9 :i* ! float+ ( ! w>p ov] ! fill+ is indicat$4 ,= ! w>p-?reads requir$ to be rais$ holes are pun*$ 9 ! c>ds4 ,9 ^! holes ! po9ts ( ! ne$les ext5d+ ?r\gh ! ne$le-bo>d are pu%$ by a spr+ fa/5$ on ! re> ( ea* ne$le4 ,! ne$les are adju/$ 9 r[s ( diff]5t heights4 ,! arrangem5ts mo/ us$ are #d1 #h1 & #ab r[s high4 ,ea* r[ z to height 9 ! ma*9e conta9s a b> 7knife7 9 ! griffe4 ,:5 ! griffe is d[n1 or ! ma*9e at re/1 ! upp] crooks ( ! hooks are rais$ ab\t half an in* above ! griffe-b>s4 ,! ne$les :i* control ! position ( ! hooks1 p]mitt+ !m to rise or compell+ !m to rema9 /ation>y1 are press$ by ! spr+s fa/5$ 9 ! re> t[>ds ! c>ds1 :i* are mov$ on a quadrilat]al & p]=at$ cyl9d]4 ,?is cyl9d] p]=ms a movem5t simil> to a p5dulum t[>ds ! po9ts ( ! ne$les4 ,any ne$le = :i* a hole 0 pun*$ 9 ! c>d w p5etrate ! cyl9d]2 consequ5tly1 ! correspond+ hook w rema9 9 its natural position1 on ! crook ov] ! correspond+ griffe-b>1 & ^u lift+ ! griffe ! hook w be rais$4 ,aga91 ne$les = :i* no holes are pun*$ 9 ! c>ds w be ?ru/ back by mov+ ! cyl9d] conta9+ ! c>ds t[>ds ! ne$le-bo>d2 ?is motion =ces back ! correspond+ hooks1 pu%+ !m away f ! griffe-b>s above1 & ^u rais+ ! griffe !y w rema9 /ation>y2 h5ce1 if a blank c>d 7 press$ aga9/ all ! ne$les ( any ma*9e1 ! entire numb] ( ne$les ! ma*9e conta9s w\ld be pu%$ back1 & none ( ! hooks w\ld come 9 contact ) ! griffe-b>s1 &1 consequ5tly1 rais+ ! griffe w\ld produce an empty lift4 ,on ! o!r h&1 us+ a c>d hav+ e hole ( ! cyl9d] pun*$1 7or ! empty cyl9d] us$71 w\ld lift e ne$le 9 ! ma*9e4 ,press+ ! ne$les t[>ds ! re> compresses ! spr+s2 ^! w aga9 exp& z soon z ! cyl9d] leaves ! ne$le-bo>d4 ,! hooks1 :i* 7 left /&+ 9 _! position ov] ! griffe-b>s are caught by ! latt] at ! rais+ ( ! griffe4 ,! elevation ( ^! hooks raises ! lea%es fa/5$ to !m1 ?us caus+ ! lift$ w>p-?reads to =m a %$ ) ^? n lift$4 ,jacqu>d ma*9es are made ( diff]5t sizes & descriptions1 "s hav+ only a few hooks & o!rs a l>ge numb]4 ,! sizes mo/ (t5 us$ are #ajj1 #bjj1 #djj1 #fjj1 #ijj1 #abjj hooks4 ,! numb] or size is always indicat$ by ! numb] ( ne$les & hooks :i* x conta9s1 )\t c\nt+ ! res]ve r[s1 ( :i* !re are g5]ally two4 ,^! res]ve r[s are us$ = v>i\s purposes1 su* z rais+ ! selv$ge2 rais+ ! front h>ness2 rais+ ! %uttle-boxes on h&-looms2 guid+ ! take-up motion on h&-looms2 indicat+ a c]ta9 c>d ?r\gh r++ a bell on h&-looms1 etc4 ,sometimes a few ( ! ne$les & hooks f ! res]ve are add$ to ! ma9 "p ( ! ne$les & hooks4 ,= example3 ,take a design 9 :i* ! gr\nd weave repeats on #ab ends2 work+ a #djj ma*9e1 we f9d3 #djj #ab #cc repeats ( ! weave1 less #d hooks2 ,consequ5tly1 if ?is gr\nd-weave is repeat$ all ov] ! wid? ( ! fabric1 we mu/ use ei!r3 #cif hooks1 leav+ #d hooks m to be add$ to ! two r[s already us$2 or #djh hooks1 requir+ u to call ^u ! res]ve r[s = eight extra hooks4 ,hooks :i* h no lea%es adju/$ mu/ be tak5 out ( ! ma*9e4 ,sometimes two1 ?ree1 or m1 ma*9es are employ$ on "o loom1 & may be work$ 9 diff]5t mann]s4 ,9 ?is c\ntry ,jacqu>d ma*9es1 = p[] z well z h&-looms1 are made ( iron1 :]eas 9 ,europe ! ma*9es = h&-looms 7compris+ ! great] "p ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9es 9 use7 are made ( wood2 us+ ! iron ones only = p[]-looms2 & ev5 yet1 9 mo/ cases1 ! wood5 ma*9es are us$ = ! latt]4 ,illu/rations ( ! ,diff]5t ,p>ts ( ! ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e4--,me?od ( ,op]ation1 etc4 ,e ,jacqu>d ma*9e may be divid$ into ! foll[+ p>ts3 #a4 ,! ,frame & ! ,p]=at$ ,bo>d ?r\gh :i* ! neck-cords are pass$4 #b4 ,! ,griffe & necess>y atta*m5ts = lift+ ! same4 #c4 ,! ,hooks4 #d4 ,! ,ne$les4 #e4 ,! ,spr+s & ,spr+ ,frame4 #f4 ,! ,ne$le-bo>d4 #g4 ,! ,cyl9d]1 ,hamm]1 & ,batt54 #h4 ,! ,cat*es4 #i4 ,! ,c>ds4 #aj4 ,! ,jacqu>d ,h>ness4 ,,! ,,frame4 ,fig4 ,i41,a repres5ts ! side view ( ! 8frame0 ( a common #bjj ,jacqu>d ma*9e by a1 b1 c1 d4 ,! wid? ( ! frame 9 its ma9 "p see #f to #g is #i-a_/b in*es4 #a-a_/h in*es is ! wid? ( ! iron ca/+ at ! places m>k$ #h & #i4 #b in*es is ! height ( ca/+ at ! place indicat$ by #a4 #a-a_/b in*es is ! height ( ca/+ at ! place indicat$ by #c4 #a-c_/d in*es is ! height ( ca/+ at ! place indicat$ by #e4 ,! op5 "p ( ! frame1 m>k$ #b 9 draw+1 is #f in*es high4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,i4 ,a ,= illu/ration ( ! pres5t article a #bjj ,jacqu>d ma*9e is us$1 illu/rat$ on pages #aa-ag by ,figs4 ,i4 to ,,xi41 :i* conta9s ! same pr9ciples ( con/ruction z any o!r size ma*9e4 ,^! illu/rations are drawn "o-f\r? ( ! actual size2 h5ce1 any measures1 etc41 we h omitt$ may readily be f\nd by any /ud5t4 ,! op5 "p ( ! frame1 m>k$ #d 9 draw+1 is #e in*es high4 ,h5ce1 ! ma9 height ( ! frame is z foll[s3 #a #b in*es4 #b #f #c #a-a_/b #d #e #e #a-c_/d ------ #af-a_/d in*es ma9 height4 ,,! ,,p]=at$ ,,bo>d4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,ii4 ,! p]=at$ bottom bo>d1 ?r\gh :i* ! neck-cords are pass$1 conta9s "o hole = e hook 9 ! ma*9e1 & is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 ,,ii4 sep>ately4 ,x %[s ! foll[+ measurem5ts3 ,entire wid? ( bo>d #h in*es4 l5g? #ab ,?ickness #c_/d ,di/ance ( a1 9 l5g? ( bo>d1 #j4bg in*4 7,see l to b47 holes f ea* c5tre1 b1 9 wid? #g_/h 7,see m to w47 fir/ r[ f ! "p ( ! frame illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 ,i41 #b-c_/d in*es4 re> "p ( ! frame1 #b-a_/b in*es4 ,?is bo>d is fa/5$ by screws to ! frame at places indicat$ 9 ,fig4 ,i4 by #aa & #ab4 ,,! ,,plung]4 ,besides ! frame1 ,fig4 ,i4 illu/rates3 ,"u ,i4 ! ,jacqu>d plung]1 #c_/d in* diamet]1 = guid+ ! griffe 7atta*$ to its head7 :5 rais+4 ,to /r5g!n ! /ead9ess ( ?is latt] movem5t %\ld]s are atta*$ to ! frame at ! ?ree places :]e ! plung] slides4 ,height ( frame at k1 #b-c_/d in*es4 l1 #b m1 #b ,screws1 f1 dott$ 9 draw+1 on head ( plung]1 fa/5 ! griffe to x4 ,"p ,,iii4 9 ,fig4 ,i4 illu/rates ! atta*m5t = provid+ ! lift+ ( ! plung] 9 a h&-loom1 likewise ! griffe1 etc4 ,?is consi/s ( a triangul> %ap$ frame #ad-a_/d in*es high1 or less1 accord+ to height ( room4 ,?is "p is fa/5$ to ! front "p ( ! frame by bolts at o & p4 ,9 ! slot at ! top1 betwe5 r & s1 a wood5 cyl9d] ( #c-a_/b in*es diamet] is fa/5$ to an iron %aft re/+ 9 ! frame at t4 ,at #ac a lea!r /rap is fa/5$ to ?is cyl9d] & to ! plung] #ad4 ,x w easily be se5 t by turn+ ! wood5 cyl9d] 9 ! direction ( ! arr[s1 #ae1 ! plung] w be rais$ ) ! griffe fa/5$ to its top4 ,by rev]s+ ! action ( ! cyl9d]1 ! plung] & griffe w return to _! previ\s positions4 ,! action ?us describ$ con/itutes a 8s+le lift10 rais+ & l[]+ ( plung] & griffe = ea* pick4 ,,! ,,cat*es4 ,at ,,iv41 ,fig4 ,i41 ! 8cat*es0 = turn+ ! cyl9d] at ! lant]n are illu/rat$4 ,! di/ance ( ! c5tre ( ! screws :i* hold ! cat*es to ! frame is #d-c_/d in*es4 ,betwe5 ^! two cat*es ! cyl9d] is adju/$ to ! batt51 & ! direction ( its turn+ is regulat$ by ! cat* :i* is br\ght 9 contact ) ! lant]n4 ,if ! cat*1 y1 turns1 ! cyl9d] w turn ! c>d situat$ on its top t[>ds ! ne$le-bo>d1 & if cat*1 z1 is br\ght into contact ) ! lant]n1 ! c>d hang+ bel[ ! ne$le-bo>d w be ! next 9 turn to be pu%$ t[>ds ! ne$les4 ,! entire l5g? ( ! cat*es 9 ! pres5t illu/ration is #h ins41 all[+ #e-a_/d ins4 = ! cat* itself & #b-c_/d ins4 = ! "p to :i* x is fa/5$4 ,mak+ ?is cat* 9 two pieces is pref]able to ! old /yle ( "o piece1 because ! mom5t ( turn+ ! cyl9d] c be m easily regulat$4 ,,! ,,griffe4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,iii4 ,fig4 ,,iii4 illu/rates ! top view ( ! griffe4 ,z m5tion$ be=e1 ! griffe is fa/5$ to ! plung] by means ( screws4 ,9 ! draw+ ! d>k %ad$ places m>k$ f are ! holl[ places 9 ! griffe1 ?r\gh :i* ! screws fa/5 ! latt] to ! plung]4 ,! griffe1 l ! o!r p>ts expla9$1 is made ( ca/ iron1 & ! ma*9e is ( ! foll[+ dim5sions3 ,l5g? ( griffe1 a to b1 #i-c_/d in*es4 ,dep? a to c1 #f-e_/h ,ext5sion on ea* side1 e to f1 #a-a_/b ,di/ance ( griffe-b>s1 s to s1 #g_/h ,l5g? m to n1 #i-a_/d ,height see ,fig4 ,,iv41 sectional cut ( griffe-b>s1 #g_/h in*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,iv4 ,,! ,,hook4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,v4 ,fig4 ,v4 repres5ts a hook z us$ 9 ! pres5t ma*9e1 made ( ,no4 #ac-a_/d bright spr+ wire4 ,height1 a to c1 #af-e_/h in*es4 ,height ( re/]1 b to c1 #f-e_/h in*es4 ,,! ,,ne$le4 ,fig4 ,,vi4 illu/rates a ne$le1 z us$ 9 connection ) ! hook4 ,di/ance f head to loop1 #i-a_/h in*es1 a to c4 ,l5g? ( loop1 #a-e_/h in*es1 c to d4 #aj-c_/d in*es entire l5g?4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,vi4 ,! di/ance f head to eye 7= pass+ ?r\gh ! hook7 is regulat$ accord+ to ! r[ 9 :i* ! ne$le belongs4 ,9 ! pres5t illu/ration ?is is1 ,head to eye1 #g in*es1 a to b4 ,! eye1 #c_/h in*1 b4 ,eight diff]5t positions ( ! di/ance ( ! eye f head w be requir$ by an #h-r[ ma*9e4 ,! ne$les are made ( ,no4 #ae-a_/b bright spr+ wire4 ,! loop on ! end1 c to d1 p]mits a p9 to be ins]t$1 see ,fig4 ,,vii41 o1 & also holds ! ne$le 9 position4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,vii4 ,fig4 ,,vii4 gives a cle> und]/&+ ( ! arrangem5t ( hooks1 ne$les1 griffe-b>s1 spr+s1 frame = hold+ ! latt]1 & ! ne$le-bo>d4 ,?is draw+ is 9 accordance ) ! prec$+ ones1 execut$ "o-f\r? ( ! actual size1 & repres5ts ! sectional cut ( "o cross-r[ 9 ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e conta9+ #h hooks1 7z x is an #h-r[ deep ma*9e :i* we expla973 e to e1 #a/ hook2 f to f1 #b;d hook2 g to g1 #c;d hook2 h to h1 #d? hook2 i to i1 #e? hook2 k to k1 #f? hook2 l to l1 #g? hook2 m to m1 #h? hook4 ,^! hooks are held 9 _! requir$ places by ! eyes ( ! ne$les see place v at hook #a1 ?r\gh :i* ! =m] are pass$4 ,! ne$les re/ ) _! heads 9 ! ne$le-bo>d1 a to b1 ext5d+ outside1 t[>ds ! cyl9d]1 = ab\t #a_/b in*4 ,! re> "p ( ! ne$le--! loop--is pass$ betwe5 two b>s ( ! spr+ frame1 n1 p1 & held by ! latt] firmly1 b ) suffici5t play = a longitud9al motion = press+ t[>ds _! spr+s4 ,! p91 o1 is ins]t$ = hold+ ! spr+s 9 _! places4 ,"o p9 is requir$ = ea* v]tical r[ ( ne$les4 ,! "p ( ! spr+ frame1 r1 n1 p1 s1 un%ad$1 is made ( ca/ iron2 ! %ad$ "p 7ext5sion7 is con/ruct$ ( wood4 ,bel[ ! upp] crook ( ! hooks1 ! black sections repres5t a sectional cut ( ! griffe-b>s2 v to w indicates ! re/] = ! l[] hooks1 :i* keeps ! latt] 9 _! requir$ position4 ,a /udy ( ?is illu/ration w %[ t :5 ! heads ( ! ne$les1 a-b1 are pu%$ backw>ds1 9 ! direction ( arr[s1 ! hooks are also mov$4 ,if ! ne$les are n pu%$1 ! upp] crooks ( ! hooks w rema9 9 position1 z 9 draw+1 ov] ! griffe-b>2 & rais+ ! latt] w consequ5tly raise e "o ( ^! hooks4 ,!re=e1 if a blank c>d is press$ aga9/ ! #bjh ne$les ( ! ma*9e1 all ! ne$les & hooks w be pu%$ back1 out ( ! way ( contact ) ! griffe-b>s1 ?us caus+ an empty lift :5 !y are rais$2 :]eas1 by press+ ) an empty cyl9d]1 or ) a c>d1 conta9+ z _m holes z ! ma*9e has ne$les1 & s plac$ t ! holes are exactly opposite ! ne$les1 none ( !m w\ld be mov$1 & ea* hook w\ld rema9 v]tical ov] its griffe-b>2 & rais+ ! griffe w lift e hook4 ,z m5tion$ be=e1 ! spr+s1 u1 are atta*$ to ! ne$les betwe5 ! ne$le-frame1 n-p1 & ! p91 o4 ,fig4 ,,vi41 ! di/ance e to f indicates ! "p ( ! loop ar\nd :i* ! spr+ is adju/$1 & :]e x re/s aga9/ ! expansion ( ! loop4 f1 9 ,fig4 ,,vi41 repres5ts ! place :]e p91 o1 7z %[n 9 ,fig4 ,,vii47 passes ?r\gh ! loop & is fa/5$ to ! ne$le-frame on top & bottom4 ,press+ ! ne$le at ! head compresses ! spr+1 z ! latt] is securely fa/5$ on "o end by ! wid] "p ( ! loop1 & on ! o!r end by a p9 ins]t$ 9 ! loop & fa/5$ to ! frame4 ,remove ! pressure at ! head ( ! ne$le1 & ! spr+ w return to its natural position1 pu%+ ! ne$le into its old place4 ,^! spr+s are made ( ?9 brass wire4 ,x is necess>y to keep ! ne$le-eyes 9 ! prop] place1 o!rwise x w\ld result 9 b5d+ ! hook out ( its p]p5dicul> position1 & by l[]+ ! griffe its b>s w\ld possibly come 9 contact ) ! head ( ! hook1 cru%+ ! latt]1 or do+ m damage if n detect$ at once4 ,ea* ne$le or hook1 if worn out1 c be replac$ by pull+ out ! p91 o1 ?us loos5+ ! ne$le & giv+ a *ance to "w ! requir$ hook out ( ! ne$le-eye4 ,,! ,,batt5 ,,motion4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,viii4 ,fig4 ,,viii4 repres5ts ! batt5 motion to be atta*$ to ! guid+-rod1 see ,no4 #ad1 9 ,fig4 ,i41 & ! frame1 see ,no4 #af1 9 ,fig4 ,i4 ,! batt51 #b1 is connect$ to a triangul> lev] by means ( lev]1 d4 ,ano!r v]tical lev] connects ! l[] "p ( ?is triangul> lev] to a project+ bolt1 k1 fix$ to ! guid+-rod ( ! griffe4 ,by rais+ ! guid+-rod1 ?us rais+ lev]1 k1 9 ! direction ( ! arr[1 ! batt5 is ?r[n outw>ds1 see direction ( arr[ bel[ c1 return+ aga9 to its =m] position at ! l[]+ ( ! griffe4 f indicates ! place :]e ! triangul> lev] is fa/5$ 7movable7 to ! project+ bolt1 ext5d+ out ( ! frame4 a indicates ! place = ! cyl9d]4 ,"p #a ( ! batt5 is movable at l 9 ! direction ( arr[1 s1 all[+ ! cyl9d] to be ins]t$4 ,"p #a is fa/5$ 7aft] putt+ ! cyl9d] 9 at a71 to #b by means ( ! screw1 n4 ,,! ,,cyl9d]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,ix4 ,fig4 ,,ix4 repres5ts ! cyl9d]1 ) ! lant]n = turn+ ! same by means ( ! cat*es4 ,! dim5sions = ! cyl9d] 9 ! pres5t ma*9e are z foll[s3 ,height ( cyl9d]1 #b-g_/af in*es4 ,wid? #ac lant]n1 #a-a_/b ,av]age l5g? ( sp9dle1 #b ,?is cyl9d] is c>ri$ 9 ! batt51 ! latt] mov+ 9 ! groove provid$ = x "u #aj1 ,fig4 ,i4 ,?is batt5 has suffici5t vibratory motion to enable x to move ! requir$ di/ance away f ! ne$le-bo>d4 ,aft] com+ 9 contact ) ! cat* x /ill moves until ! cyl9d] has p]=m$ a complete turn4 ,! cyl9d] is /eadi$ 9 ! requir$ position by ! hamm] press+ by ! means ( a spr+ t[>ds ! lant]n f bel[4 ,,! ,,hamm]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,x4 ,fig4 ,x4 illu/rates ! hamm] z atta*$ to ! batt52 a to b1 7equals #c in*es 9 wid? 9 our pres5t illu/ration71 repres5ts ! head ( ! hamm]1 =m+ ! f\ndation = /eady+ ! cyl9d] 9 its turn+4 ,! hamm] is press$ = ?is purpose t[>ds ! cyl9d] by means ( ! spr+1 s to r4 ,p>ts h & k guide ! hamm] 9 its up & d[n movem5ts1 & are solid p>ts ( ! batt54 ,by turn+ ! cyl9d] ! hamm] is pu%$ d[n 9 ! direction ( ! arr[1 t1 ?us compress+ ! spr+1 :i* returns to its normal position aft] ! cyl9d] has complet$ its turn1 ready = be+ advanc$ t[>ds ! ne$le-bo>d4 ,! foll[+ are accurate measurem5ts ( ?is "p ( ! ma*9e3 ,height ( head ( hamm] at a & b1 #a_/d in*4 ,?ickness ( hamm]-head1 e to c1 #c_/h ,height ( hamm]-head :5 at re/ above ! top guid+ "p1 c to o1 #a-a_/b ,wid? ( ! guid+-rod1 c to d1 #a_/b ,?ickness ( 8top guide10 f to g1 #c_/d 8l[] guide10 f to r1 #a_/d ,di/ance betwe5 ^! guides1 #i ,total height ( guid+-rod1 #aj-a_/b ,! %ad$ "p ( ! draw+ above ! hamm] repres5ts ! cyl9d]1 i1 :i* has its %aft = turn+ at m4 ,,! ,,ne$le-,,bo>d4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xi4 ,z be=e m5tion$1 ! heads ( ! ne$les are pass$ ?r\gh ! ne$le-bo>d4 ,a draw+ ( ?is bo>d1 repres5t+ ! front view1 is %[n 9 ,fig4 ,,xi4 ,! foll[+ are ! dim5sions3 a to c1 #i-a_/b in*es4 a to b1 #b-c_/h in*es4 ,ea* side ( ! prism1 always te*nically call$ ! cyl9d]1 has a protrud+ peg ab\t #a_/b in* 9 l5g?4 ,:5 9 contact ) ! ne$le-bo>d ^! pegs ent] ! black holes %[n ^u ei!r side 9 draw+4 ,! #bjh ne$les & holes 9 ! pres5t ma*9e are repres5t$ by a small spot = ! =m] ) an outside r+ = ! latt]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xii4 ,! lift+ ( ! griffe1 :i* 9 turn also op]ates ! o!r p>ts ( ! ,jacqu>d head1 z expla9$ be=e1 is n always produc$ f above3 v (t5 ?is lift+ is arrang$ to be done by means ( a lev] arrangem5t f bel[ ! griffe4 ,?is me?od ( work+ ! me*anism 9 ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e is illu/rat$ by ,fig4 ,,xii41 repres5t+ ! p]spective view ( a #djj ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 7,w4 ,p4 ,uhl+]1 build]74 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xiii4 ,fig4 ,,xiii4 repres5ts ! same ma*9e adju/$ to ! loom4 ,on ! long] arm ( ! lev] a s]ies ( holes are f\nd4 ,^! regulate ! height ( ! lift by ! v]tical rod :i* provides ! requir$ movem5t4 ,! ne>] ?is rod is adju/$ to ! ,jacqu>d head ! high] ! lift ( ! ,jacqu>d h>ness1 ?us =m+ ! %$4 ,,! ,,jacqu>d ,,c>ds4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xiv4 ,fig4 ,,xiv4 repres5ts a s+le ,jacqu>d c>d1 z requir$ = ! #bjj ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 #a_/d ( its actual size4 ,?is %[s #bf r[s ( holes 9 its wid? & #h r[s 9 its dep?1 #bjh holes4 ,^! holes are %[n 9 black1 "o = ea* hook 9 ! ma*9e4 ,besides ^! a l>ge hole on ea* side p]mit ! pegs ( ! cyl9d] to ent] into ! ne$le-bo>d4 ,! c>ds are int]lac$ 9 an endless arrangem5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xv4 ,fig4 ,,xv4 illu/rates f\r c>ds lac$ toge!r4 ,! l>ge holes 7m>k$ d 9 draw+7 are peg holes to receive ! pegs1 h1 h1 h1 h1 etc41 ( ! cyl9d]1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 ,,ix4 ,^! pegs are movable s t any small v>iations at cutt+ ) diff]5t c>d-/amp+ ma*9es c be rectifi$4 ,! pap] us$ = ! c>ds mu/ be ( suffici5t ?ickness to resi/ ! we> caus$ by ! ne$les1 z well z to give /ead9ess to ! c>ds :5 re/+ 9 ! pegs ( ! cyl9d]4 ,! c>ds are int]lac$ 9 an endless arrangem5t2 h5ce1 "o c>d is br\ght aft] ! o!r 9 rotation t[>ds ! ne$les4 ,! c>ds only refuse s]vice by n fitt+ prop]ly on ! cyl9d]1 i4 e41 if ! peg holes are too ne> toge!r or too f> ap>t2 or if ! c>ds are w>p$1 :i* is liable to happ5 9 a damp work%op4 ,a c>eful exam9ation ( ! c>ds fitt+ on ! cyl9d] is absolutely necess>y1 o!rwise a wrong lift+ ( ! hooks de/roy+ ! c>ds by ! pegs pun*+ new holes w\ld result4 ,! cyl9d] ) c>ds p]fectly cut mu/ be set s z to all[ ! ne$les to p5etrate into ! c5tre ( ! holes /amp$ = !m 9 ! c>d4 ,sometimes ! cyl9d] is set too high or too l[--too f> 9 front or too f> 9 re>4 ,to asc]ta9 ! prop] position1 lift ! ma*9e & place "s pa9t1 or grease f ! ma*9e1 on ! heads ( ! ne$les4 ,aft]w>ds let ! ma*9e 8fall 910 :i* w br+ ! c>ds aga9/ ! heads ( ! ne$les1 produc+ an impression & indicat+ ! exact position ( ! ne$le-heads4 ,! cyl9d] is always set 9 its prop] position :5 no m>ks are made by ! ent]+ ne$les on ! m>g9s ( ! /amp$ holes & :]e !re are no holes ! impression left by ! ne$le head mu/ be equally di/ant f ! surr\nd+ holes4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xvi4 ,to get a cle> und]/&+ ( ?is exam9e ,fig4 ,,xvi4 illu/rat+ six diff]5t impressions ( ! ne$les4 ,! circle %[n ) full l9es 9 ea* ( ^! six illu/rations repres5ts ! correct position ( ! circumf]5ce ( ! hole1 & ! dott$ circles ! v>i\s errors t may exi/4 ,fig4 ,a %[s ! cyl9d] set 9 its prop] place1 :i* is indicat$ by ! impression ( ! ne$le 9 ! c5tre4 ,fig4 ,b %[s ! cyl9d] is set too high1 z indicat$ by ! impression ( ! ne$le4 ,see arr[4 ,9 ,fig4 ,c ! cyl9d] is set too l[4 ,9 ,fig4 ,d ! cyl9d] is set too f> to ! left4 ,9 ,fig4 ,e ! cyl9d] is set too f> to ! "r4 ,9 ,fig4 ,f ! cyl9d] is set too l[ & too f> to ! "r4 ,9 ,fig4 ,g ! cyl9d] is set too l[ & too f> to ! left4 ,9 ,fig4 ,h ! cyl9d] is set too high & too f> to ! left4 ,9 ,fig4 ,k ! cyl9d] is set too high & too f> to ! "r4 ,if ! ma*9e produces wrong lifts ( ! hooks & ! tr\ble is n f\nd 9 ! sett+ ( ! cyl9d]1 nor 9 ! hooks or ne$les1 !n asc]ta9 if ! cyl9d] is adju/$ by means ( ! lev] arrangem5t1 close en\gh to ! ne$le-bo>d2 = if x is n1 ! hooks w n be pu%$ f> en\gh f ! griffe-b>s1 & by rais+ ! latt] a wrong %$ w be produc$4 ,:5 us+ a great numb] ( c>ds 9 a set !y are made to fold into a 8rack40 ,?is is done by atta*+ a wire #a to #a-a_/b in*es long] ?an ! c>ds at ! junction (1 say e #ab?1 #ae?1 or #bj? c>ds4 ,see c at ,fig4 ,,xv4 ,! c>ds fall ?r\gh a wood5 frame1 ,fig4 ,,xvii41 b ! wires atta*$ to ! c>ds1 be+ long]1 c n pass ?r\gh1 & ! c>ds w rema9 susp5d$1 & subsequ5tly fold toge!r 9 a v compact mann]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xvii4 ,9 ,fig4 ,,xvii4 we illu/rate #aef c>ds arrang$ ) wires atta*$ to e twelf? c>d1 z foll[s3 betwe5 c>ds #aef & #a1 #ab & #ac1 #bd & #be1 #cf & #cg1 #dh & #di1 #fj & #fa1 #gb & #gc1 #hd & #he1 #if & #ig1 #ajh & #aji1 #abj & #aba1 #acb & #acc1 #add & #ade4 ,at e1 f1 g1 are %[n prisms ( ! size ( ! cyl9d]1 by :i* ! c>ds are guid$ & regulat$ 9 _! run t[>ds ! cyl9d]1 7direction ( arr[72 i & h repres5t r\nd roll]s1 also plac$ 9 rack = guid+ c>ds aft] leav+ ! cyl9d]1 c2 a & b1 ! ne$le-bo>d2 c & d1 ! ne$les ( ! ma*9e4 ,s repres5ts ! wires z ins]t$ 9 c>ds = hold+ !m 9 ! frame4 ,,! ,,jacqu>d ,,h>ness4 ,to ! l[] end ( ! hooks 7c4 9 ,fig4 ,v47 ! neck-cords are adju/$4 ,! latt] are pass$ sep>ately ?r\gh "o ( ! correspond+ holes ( ! p]=at$ bottom bo>d 7,fig4 ,,ii47 ,to ^! neck-cords are fa/5$ ! lea%es ( ! ,jacqu>d h>ness ab\t #a_/b to #a in* above ! frame conta9+ ! rods :i* guide ! neck-cords v]tically z ! hooks are rais$ & l[]$4 ,! diff]5t h>ness-cords are ?read$ ?r\gh ! comb]-bo>d 9 v>i\s ways call$ 8,tie-ups10 :i* w be expla9$ lat]4 ,! ,comb]-bo>d & ,me?ods ( ,figur+ = x4 ,!re are two k9ds ( comb]-bo>ds us$ ^u ,jacqu>d looms3 #a/4 ,comb]-bo>ds made ( a solid piece ( mat]ial1 ei!r wood or porcela94 #b;d4 ,comb]-bo>ds made 9 /rips ( ei!r ( ! mat]ials above nam$1 & adju/$ aft]w>ds 9 a wood5 frame4 ,comb]-bo>ds ,made ( a ,solid ,piece ( ,mat]ial4 ,be=e ord]+ a comb]-bo>d1 x is necess>y to "k ! texture ( ! fabric 9 ! loom1 & also ! numb] or size ( ! ma*9e to be us$2 = ! numb] ( holes p] in* 9 ! comb]-bo>d is regulat$ by ?is4 ,aft]w>ds1 we may1 if we *oose1 arrange ! numb] ( holes 9 dep? ( ! comb]-bo>d1 accord+ to ! numb] ( griffe-b>s 9 ! ma*9e1 7guid$ by ! fabric to be made74 ,we may h eight griffe-b>s 9 ! ma*9e1 & arrange ! comb]-bo>d #d1 #f1 #h1 #aj1 #ab r[s deep2 or we may h #ab griffe-b>s 9 ! ma*9e1 & arrange ! comb]-bo>d #ab1 #aj1 #h1 #f1 #d r[s deep4 ,,rule3 ,! numb] ( holes to "o in* 9 ! comb]-bo>d mu/ equal ! texture ( ! fabric to "o in* 9 loom4 ,,example3 ,suppose a fabric ) a texture 9 ! loom ( #ajj ?reads1 & we are to use a #fjj ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 ) #ab r[s4 ,! wid? ( ! fabric 9 ! loom is to be #cf in*es4 ,requir$3 ,! numb] ( holes 9 ! wid? ( ! comb]-bo>d4 ,answ]3 #ajj #cf #cfjj holes 9 ! comb]-bo>d4 #cfjj #ab #cjj1 ! numb] ( holes 9 wid?4 ,! wid? & dep? ( ! comb]-bo>d are regulat$ by ! wid? ( ! clo? requir$ & by ! design to be us$4 ,! great] ! numb] ( r[s 9 dep? ! clos] !y mu/ be2 ! same is true ( ! wid?4 ,x is necess>y to take c>e n to h ! comb]-bo>d too deep1 z ! consequ5ce w\ld be a bad %$2 fur!rmore1 we mu/ n h ! holes too close toge!r1 z 9 a high texture ?is w\ld make tr\ble 9 ! weav+ ?r\gh ! cat*+ ( ! h$dles ) ! w>p1 & also cause useless *af+ ( ! w>p-?reads & ! h$dles4 ,! ,*ang+ ( ,solid ,comb]-bo>ds = ,diff]5t ,textures4 ,9 ,jacqu>d "w we g5]ally use ! same texture1 or z ne> z possible1 z ! loom is ti$ up =2 b *anges are sometimes unavoidable4 ,if we r$uce ! texture ( ! fabric 9 a ,jacqu>d loom ti$-up = a solid comb]-bo>d1 we mu/ r$uce proportionally ! numb] ( hooks & ne$les us$ 9 design+1 & h5ce ! numb] ( h$dles us$ p] in*4 ,^! h$dles w ?us be left empty :5 draw+ 9 ! w>p4 ,to accompli% ?is lift ! full ma*9e & ?r[ ! hooks n to be us$ f ! knives1 l[]+ 9 ?is way e mail :i* is n to be us$4 ,sometimes !re may be only "o1 two1 ?ree1 or f\r hooks to be ?r[n (f1 on acc\nt ( ! design4 ,at o!r times x may be necess>y t "o-eigh?1 or "o-f\r?1 or ev5 "o-half ( ! :ole numb] %all be dropp$ = ?is purpose4 ,= in/ance1 suppose we h a dressgoods design ( #eif ?reads & a #fjj ma*9e4 ,^! f\r ends left (f ! #fjj1 if 9 #f1 #g1 #h1 or m in*es 9 wid?1 w\ld n affect ! fabric nor ! co/ to any great ext5t2 h5ce we may leave out ! fir/ or la/ f\r ne$les ( ! #fjj4 ,suppose we h a texture ( #ajj 9 ! comb]-bo>d1 to l[] to #ff ends p] in*4 #ff ends1 or ! ne>e/ ev5 "p ( #ajj 7#ff-b_/c7 is #b_/c ( #ajj2 h5ce1 we only ne$ two-?irds ( our ma*9e2 & z ! same is suppos$ to be arrang$ #ab r[s deep1 we ne$ #b_/c ( #ab r[s1 or #h r[s4 ,! f\r r[s ?us f\nd necess>y to drop may be dropp$ f ! ends1 or alt]nately1 z foll[s3 ,e alt]nate #b r[s tak51 #a r[ miss$1 #d times ov]1 #ab r[s4 ,or1 #b r[s miss$1 #h r[s tak51 #b r[s miss$1 #ab r[s4 ,comb]-bo>ds made 9 ,/rips & ,adju/$ aft]w>ds 9 a ,frame4 ,by ^! comb]-bo>ds :i* are us$ to a great advantage on n>r[ loom "w up to #cf in* fabrics1 we c *ange ! texture = ! fabric2 = ! /rips compos+ ! comb]-bo>d may be drawn ap>t1 ?us *ang+ ! high] texture to l[]2 :]eas 9 a solid comb]-bo>d ?is c\ld only be done by re-ty+ ! h>ness or *ang+ ! numb] ( ne$les us$ 9 ! ma*9e4 ,to give a cle> und]/&+ ,figs4 ,,xviii41 ,,xix41 ,,xx4 are ne$$4 ,fig4 ,,xviii4 repres5ts an #h-r[ deep comb]-bo>d1 a1 b1 c1 d1 compos$ ( #aj /rips :i* are set close toge!r4 ,by exam9+ ea* /rip #e cross-r[s ( holes w be f\nd1 mak+ ! :ole numb] ( holes #djj4 ,suppose ! comb]-bo>d z repres5t$ 9 ,fig4 ,,xviii4 is int5d$ = a texture ( #ajj ends p] in*2 ?is w give = ! wid? ( ! fabric 7i1 k1 to l1 m17 #d in*es4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xix4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xviii4 ,9 ,fig4 ,,xix4 ! comb]-bo>d is arrang$ = a texture ( half z _m ends1 or #ej holes p] in*1 & ! #aj /rips are arrang$ accord+ly2 ! empty places betwe5 ! /rips are ( same size z ! /rips !mselves1 & ! fabric design bel[ ! comb]-bo>d is arrang$ to correspond4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xx4 ,fig4 ,,xx4 illu/rates ! sectional cut ( ! comb]-bo>d us$ 9 draw+s1 ,figs4 ,,xviii4 & ,,xix41 & ! lett]s indicat+ ! diff]5t p>ts ( ^! figures :i* correspond4 ,divisions ( ! ,comb]-bo>d4 ,"u ?is head+ we classify "o repeat ( ! arrangem5t ( ?read+ h>ness-cords 9 ! comb]-bo>d1 & !re=e "o repeat ( ! design ( ! fabric4 ,we f9d fabrics 9 :i* are us$ "o or m divisions ( "o sy/em ( ?read+ h>ness-cords 9 ! comb]-bo>d2 aga91 !re are o!rs 9 :i* "o or m divisions ( "o sy/em are comb9$ ) "o or m divisions ( ano!r1 or ev5 ( two or ?ree o!r sy/ems4 ,h$dles = ! ,jacqu>d ,h>ness4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxi4 ,aft] ! h>ness-cords are ?read$ ?r\gh ! comb]-bo>d ! h$dles are adju/$4 ,( ^! !re are two k9ds3 ,a4 ,! tw9e h$dle1 conta9+ ! mail = hold+ ! w>p-?read4 ,b4 ,! wire h$dle1 simil> 9 its con/ruction to ! regul> h$dle1 us$ 9 ! common h>ness-loom4 ,^! are v little us$1 & only 9 fabrics ( a l[ texture4 ,fig4 ,,xxi4 illu/rates a regul> tw9e h$dle "o-f\r? ( its actual size4 b repres5ts ! mail1 ?r\gh ! eye ( :i* ! w>p-?reads are pass$4 a1 ! adju/m5t ( ! h$dle to ! h>ness-cord4 c indicates "p ( ! l+o = weight+ ! h$dle4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxii4 ,fig4 ,,xxii4 illu/rates ! me?od obs]v$ = comb9+ h$dle & h>ness-cords4 a1 ! guide-bo>d1 to get ! mails regul> 9 height2 b1 ! knot comb9+ h$dle & h>ness-cord4 ,see a 9 ,fig4 ,,xxi4 c1 ! mail4 d1 ! l+o4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxiii4 ,fig4 ,,xxiii4 illu/rates ! av]age position ( ! mail 9 a loom4 a1 brea/-beam ( ! loom4 c1 ! w>p-beam or guide-beam ov] :i* ! w>p runs on its way t[>ds ! h>ness4 b1 ! position ( ! h$dle4 d1 ! l+o4 ,! 8,leas+0 ( ! ,h>ness4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxiv4 ,?is requires a cle> conception ( ! rotation 9 :i* ! diff]5t h$dles are ?read$1 accord+ to ! tie-up employ$4 ,two me?ods are 9 use3 #a/4 ,! h$dle ne>e/ ! weav] is ! fir/ to be ?read$1 & ! h$dle ( ! same r[ 9 re> ( ! comb]-bo>d is ! la/4 #b;d4 ,?is pr9ciple rev]s$1 ?us arrang+ ! leas+ f re> to front4 ,! latt] me?od is ! "o mo/ g5]ally obs]v$4 ,e r[ 9 dep? ( comb]-bo>d is leas$ sep>ately1 & 9 rotation secur$ to ! lease-tw9es1 a & b1 9 ,fig4 ,,xxiv41 ?us =m+ an un9t]rupt$ l9e ( h$dles ?r\gh ! entire ,jacqu>d h>ness4 ,?r\gh ^! h$dles ! w>p is aft]w>ds drawn 9 rotation4 ,,ty+-,,up ,,( ,,jacqu>d ,,h>ness4 #a4 ,! ,/raight-,?r\gh ,tie-up4 ,?is tie-up conta9s 9 its pr9ciple ! f\ndation ( all ! o!rs4 ,?ree me?ods are 9 common use1 :i* we w n[ expla94 #a/4 ,! ,jacqu>d ,h>ness ?read$ on ! ma*9e 9 ! direction f ,front to ,re>4 ,?is tie-up is repres5t$ 9 ,fig4 ,,xxv4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxv4 ,z m5tion$ 9 ! head+ ( ?is article1 ! ,jacqu>d h>ness1 or ! lea%es1 are fa/5$ to ! ma*9e 9 rotation f front to re>1 ! ?read+ ( ! comb]-bo>d be+ done f re> to front4 ,! comb]-bo>d is 9 ?ree divisions4 ,! ma*9e us$ = illu/rat+ is a #djj ,jacqu>d #h-r[ ma*9e1 & ! comb]-bo>d us$ is also #h r[s deep4 ,?is me?od ( ty+-up ( ! lea%es =ms :at is te*nically kn[n z 8op5 h>ness40 ,z ! draw+ is design$ to expla9 a #djj ma*9e1 #h r[s drawn 9 ! comb]-bo>d1 also #h r[s deep1 "o r[ 9 height ( ! cyl9d] w equal "o r[ 9 dep? on ! comb]-bo>d4 ,9 exam9+ ! illu/ration ! eye mu/ foll[ ! l9e connect+ ! numb]s on ! neck-cords to ! correspond+ numb]s ne> ! holes on ! comb]-bo>d4 ,if ?is be done1 ! tie-up w readily expla9 itself4 ,x w also expla9 ! me?od ( proc$ure if a ma*9e is us$ conta9+ a diff]5t numb] ( ne$les & hooks1 & a comb]-bo>d hav+ z _m r[s 9 dep? z !re are griffe-b>s 9 ! ma*9e4 ,= example1 a #fjj ma*9e1 ) #ab griffe-b>s1 ne$s = ?is tie-up a comb]-bo>d #ab r[s deep2 & a #bjj ma*9e1 ) #h griffe-b>s1 requires a comb]-bo>d #h r[s deep1 etc41 etc4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxvi4 ,! draw+ %[s a comb]-bo>d ) #c divisions1 ea* division furni%+ "o h>ness-cord to ea* neck-cord1 mak+ 9 all ?ree h>ness-cords to e neck-cord4 ,! same tie-up w apply %\ld ! draw+ conta9 a diff]5t numb] ( divisions4 ,! illu/ration %[s only ! fir/ & la/ r[s ( ea* division 9 ! comb]-bo>d1 & also ! fir/ & la/ r[s ( neck-cords4 ,! design bel[ ! draw+ repres5ts a damask fabric to be execut$ on ?is tie-up1 requir+ ! :ole numb] ( ne$les = "o repeat ( ! patt]n ( #djj ?reads4 ,9 design+ = ^! tie-ups x is necess>y to arrange ! design to repeat itself 9 ! numb] ( ne$les t w be us$ 9 produc+ ! fabric4 ,! fir/ & la/ ?reads mu/ connect ) ea* o!r1 )\t int]ruption1 =m+ a cont9u\s design ov] all ! divisions4 ,?us we f9d1 9 fabric design ( a damask t[el1 ,fig4 ,,xxvi41 ! repeat 7division7 f ,a to ,b4 ,9 ! c5tre ( ! design m>k$ a1 & ! ma9 "p ( ! bord] m>k$ c1 we f9d "o repeat2 :]eas bord]s b & b repeat #h times4 ,9 ! fabric illu/rat$ by design1 ,fig4 ,,xxvii41 aga9 a damask t[el1 ! repeat1 or "o division1 is also indicat$ by ,a to ,b4 ,! c5tre ( ! fabric1 a1 repeats twice 9 "o division2 bord]s b & b repeat f\r times 9 ! same di/ance2 :]eas ! ma9 design ( ! bord] indicat$ by c requires "o complete division4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxvii4 #b;d4 ,! ,jacqu>d ,h>ness ?read$ on ! ma*9e f ,re> to ,front4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxviii4 ,?is is ! second me?od = ! /raight-?r\gh tie-up1 & is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 ,,xxviii4 ,! ,jacqu>d h>ness is fa/5$ to ! ma*9e1 at ! neck-cords1 f re> to front4 ,! ?read+ ( ! comb]-bo>d is also f re> to front4 ,9 ?is me?od ! "w ( atta*+ ! lea%es to ! neck-cords is comm5c$ 9 ! re> in/ead ( ! front ( ! ma*9e1 ?us giv+ a diff]5t view & arrangem5t ( ! tie-up4 ,?is disposition ( ! ?reads is call$ a 8sectional h>ness arrangem5t40 ,! illu/ration %[s a #djj ,jacqu>d or #h-r[ ma*9e1 9 connection ) an #h-r[ deep comb]-bo>d1 ) "o r[ 9 ! comb]-bo>d requir+ a correspond+ r[ on ! face ( ! cyl9d]4 ,x w also expla9 ! me?od ( proc$ure ) ?is tie-up 9 ,jacqu>d ma*9es ) comb]-bo>ds ( diff]5t sizes4 ,fig4 ,,xxix4 repres5ts ! p]=at$ bo>d at ! bottom ( ! ma*9e ?r\gh :i* ! neck-cords pass1 atta*+ ! lea% to ! neck-cords4 ,! fir/ r[1 conta9+ neck-cords numb]$ #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1 #f1 #g1 & #h1 & ! #ej? r[1 conta9+ ^? numb]$ #cic1 #cid1 #cie1 #cif1 #cig1 #cih1 #cii1 & #djj1 are ! only ones %[n 9 ,fig4 ,,xxviii4 illu/rat+ ! tie-up4 ,! comb]-bo>d is divid$ into f\r sections2 h5ce1 ! draw+1 z repres5t$ 9 ,fig4 ,,xxviii41 calls = a fabric ) #afjj ends 9 wid?4 #djj ends1 or any numb] divid+ into #djj1 c be us$ = ! repeat ( ! patt]n4 ,! me?od foll[$ 9 ! illu/ration may be appli$ to any size ( ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 & also to any requir$ numb] ( divisions 9 ! comb]-bo>d4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxix4 ,9 asc]ta9+ ! numb] ( hooks or ne$les = "o repeat ( ! design1 det]m9e accurately if ! repeat ( ! weave employ$ = b9d+ ! gr\nd or ! figure divides ev5ly into ?is numb]4 ,= example1 take bottom bo>d1 ,fig4 ,,xxix41 call+ = #djj hooks & #djj ne$les4 ,suppose ! gr\nd weave to be an #h-leaf sat91 & ! design to repeat once 9 ! #djj hooks4 #djj #h #ej repeats1 %[+ an equal division ,b suppose a #ab-leaf sat9 is us$2 x is obvi\s t #ab is n an ev5 factor ( #djj1 z ! division %[s a rema9d] ( #d4 ,to dispose ( ?is rema9d] two me?ods are op53 ,fir/4 ,omit la/ #d ends & use only #cif hooks1 a multiple ( #ab1 giv+ #cc repeats2 or1 ,second4 ,add #h hooks f ! res]ve r[s1 else:]e previ\sly allud$ to1 ?us increas+ ! numb] to #djh1 :i* is also a multiple ( #ab1 giv+ #cd repeats4 #c;d4 ,! ,/raight-,?r\gh ,tie-up on ! ,engli% ,sy/em4 ,! ,engli% sy/em1 :i* is widely us$1 has ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e s adju/$ ^u ! loom z to h ! cyl9d] l5g?ways1 runn+ 9 ! same direction z ! comb]-bo>d2 or1 :at is ! same ?+1 runn+ 9 ! direction ( ! wid? ( ! fabric4 ,see ,fig4 ,,xxx4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxx4 ,! #h hooks ( "o cross-r[ 7"o hook f ea* ( ! #h griffe-b>s7 run 9 ! direction f ! clo? beam t[>ds ! w>p beam4 ,hav+ ! same numb] ( r[s 9 dep?1 9 comb]-bo>d z !re are griffe-b>s1 "o may readily see ! advantages ( ?is tie-up4 ,! fir/ r[ 9 dep? ( ! comb]-bo>d conta9s h>ness-cords f neck-cords #a to #h4 ,! second r[ deep ( comb]-bo>d conta9s h>ness-cords f neck-cords #i to #af1 f9i%+ ea* division on ! la/ 7#be?7 r[1 ) h>ness-cords f neck-cords #aic to #bjj4 ,%\ld we h a #fjj ma*9e1 ) #ab r[s1 ! comb]-bo>d w\ld also h #ab r[s1 z ! #fjj ma*9e conta9s #ab griffe-b>s4 ,! fir/ r[ ( ! comb]-bo>d receives ! h>ness-cords f ,nos4 #a to #ab2 ! second r[ f ,nos4 #ac to #bd1 & s on1 f9i%+ on ! la/ 7#ej?7 r[ ( comb]-bo>d ) #ehi to #fjj4 ,,ii4 ,/raight-,?r\gh ,tie-up = ,repeat$ ,effects1 9 "o ,repeat ( ! ,design4 ,?is me?od ( arrang+ ! ty+-up ( ! ,jacqu>d h>ness is bas$ ^u ! necessity = produc+ patt]ns hav+ a l>g] numb] ( w>p-?reads ?an ! ,jacqu>d us$ has ne$les4 ,! pr9ciple to be obs]v$ is f\nd 9 produc+ small effects :i* repeat !mselves 9 ! g5]al design4 ,! numb] ( cords = ! lea%es dep5ds ^u ! frequ5cy ) :i* ^! repeats occur4 ,fabrics ) /ripe effects (f] great] opportunities = r$uc+ ! numb] ( hooks & ne$les ?an o!r designs4 ,fig4 ,,xxxi4 illu/rates su* a design ) its tie-up1 us+ a #djj ,jacqu>d ma*9e ) #h r[s4 ,! patt]n %[s f\r di/9ct effects1 z foll[s3 ,a1 requir+ r[s #a to #af1 inclusive2 or h>ness-cords #a to #abh1 inclusive4 ,b1 requir+ r[s #ag to #ba1 inclusive2 or h>ness-cords #abi to #afh1 inclusive4 ,c1 requir+ r[s #bb to #cd2 or h>ness-cords #afi to #bgb1 inclusive4 ,d1 requir+ r[s #ce to #ej2 or h>ness-cords #bgc to #djj1 inclusive4 ,9 ?is fabric we f9d #b full repeats ( ! design3 fir/1 ,e to ,f2 second1 ,e to ,f1 ?us requir+ two divisions 9 ! comb]-bo>d1 z indicat$ by ! v]tical l9e betwe5 ,f & ,e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxi4 ,! next subject to consid] is ! diff]5t arrangem5t ( repeat$ effects 9 "o division4 ,comm5ce at ! left-h& side ( ! fabric sket* ) effect ,a1 :i* repeats only once 9 "o patt]n or "o division4 ,! illu/ration %[s two divisions1 & also t ea* hook ( r[s #a to #af1 inclusive1 9 ! fir/ division c be connect$ ) ea* hook ( r[s #a to #af1 inclusive1 9 ! second division1 because ^! r[s produce ! same effect 9 ! design1 :i* repeats itself 9 ^! two places4 ,?is connection =ms :at is te*nically call$ a lea%1 & x w always be f\nd t = e h>ness-cord a lea% conta9s1 !re w be f\nd a repeat 9 ! design to correspond4 ,effect ,b is repeat$ f\r times 9 ! design1 or 9 ea* division4 ,by hav+ two divisions = ! illu/ration we f9d t to produce ! necess>y repeats 9 ! design ea* hook ( r[s #ag to #ba1 inclusive1 requires #h h>ness-cords to ea* lea%4 ,effect ,c repeats twice 9 "o patt]n or "o division4 ,hav+ two divisions = ! illu/ration1 ea* hook ( r[ #bb1 includ+ r[ #cd1 requires #d h>ness-cords to ea* lea%4 ,effect ,d repeats once 9 patt]n1 once 9 division4 ,?is w give a result simil> to ,a1 two divisions1 r[ #ce1 includ+ r[ #ej1 ) two h>ness-cords to ea* lea%4 ,?is tie-up illu/rates ! fir/ r[ ( e effect1 & also ! la/ lea%1 #djj4 ,add+ ! numb] ( w>p-?reads 9 ! full repeat ( ! patt]n1 we h3 ,effect ,a #abh ?reads4 ,b #dj ,c #ajd ,b #dj ,d #abh ,b #dj ,c #ajd ,b #dj ---- #fbd ?reads4 ,or1 9 o!r words1 we are produc+ ) a 8/raight-?r\gh tie-up = repeat$ effects0 on a #djj ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 a design1 :i* w\ld require a #fjj ma*9e on a common /raight-?r\gh tie-up1 includ+ ! two res]ve r[s1 or #fbd ne$les2 9 o!r words1 a sav+ is made ( #bbd ne$les 9 "o full repeat ( ! patt]n4 ,9 design+ = looms ti$ up = simil> /yles1 ! repeats ( effects mu/ be kept 9 m9d4 ,! g5]al /yle ( e design may be *ang$1 b ! arrangem5t ( ! repeat$ effects _c be alt]$ )\t *ang+ ! entire ,jacqu>d h>ness4 ,,iii4 ,/raight-,?r\gh ,tie-up ( a ,jacqu>d ,loom hav+ ,front ,h>ness ,atta*$4 ,z m5tion$ 9 ! beg9n+ ( ?is "w1 e ,jacqu>d ma*9e conta9s two res]ve r[s1 :i* may be us$ = v>i\s purposes4 ,"o ( ! purposes to :i* ^! r[s are frequ5tly put is ! enl>gem5t ( ! design ( ! fabric by us+ h>ness on ! front ( ! comb]-bo>d1 te*nically kn[n z 8front h>ness40 ,= example1 9 damask table-clo?s1 we may use ! ,jacqu>d h>ness = produc+ ! bord] ( ! fabric4 ,! c5tre "p may be produc$ ) front h>ness1 =m+ a *eck]bo>d1 or "s simil> effect4 ,?is process may be rev]s$ by design+ ! c5tre ( ! table-clo? = ! ,jacqu>d h>ness1 & ! bord] = ! front h>ness4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxii4 ,a ?ird me?od is to design "p ( ! c5tre & "p ( ! bord] = ! ,jacqu>d h>ness1 ! o!r p>ts be+ design$ = ! front h>ness4 ,?is tie-up is also us$ to a great ext5t 9 ! manufacture ( dressgoods1 etc41 :]e /ripe effects produc$ by ! front h>ness1 alt]nate ) floral or geometrical designs produc$ by ! ,jacqu>d h>ness4 ,9 ,fig4 ,,xxxiii4 ! c5tre ( a table-clo? cov] is %[n to fur!r illu/rate ?is me?od ( ty+-up4 ,"o-half ( ! wid? ( ! design is = ! ,jacqu>d h>ness2 ! o!r half is = ! front h>ness4 ,to produce ! requir$ *eck]bo>d effect ^! front h>ness are us$ "h 9 two di/9ct sets4 ,! #a/ set #e h>ness1 work+ on ! #e-leaf sat9 w>p = face1 alt]nat+ ) ! #b;d set #e h>ness1 work+ on ! #e-leaf sat9 fill+ = face4 ,if only #h front h>ness %\ld be us$ = ! design1 we %\ld h ! #a/ set #d h>ness1 work+ on ! #d h>ness brok5 twill w>p = face4 #b;d set #d h>ness1 work+ on ! #d h>ness brok5 twill fill+ = face4 ,set #a to alt]nate ) set #b to =m ! *eck4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 t ! numb] ( *ecks =m$ by ! front h>ness are ev5ly arrang$ to ! figur$ "p ( ! fabric4 ,= example1 ,fig4 ,,xxxiii41 9 ! front h>ness "p ( ! design %[s #e w>p *ecks & #e fill+ *ecks 9 "o r[1 #aj *ecks4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxiii4 ,suppose #aj front h>ness are us$ & #bj w>p-?reads all[$ = ea* *eck2 !n #bj #aj #bjj w>p-?reads1 all us$ = effects by ! front h>ness4 ,?is requires #bjj w>p-?reads = figure effects to be us$ by ! ,jacqu>d h>ness4 ,! repeat ( ! patt]n is !re=e #djj w>p-?reads1 :i* is produc$ by /raight-?r\gh tie-up1 front h>ness atta*$1 ) #bjj hooks & ne$les = ,,figure ,,"p ( ! design1 plus #aj hooks & ne$les = ,,*eck]bo>d ,,"p ( ! fabric tak5 f ! #af hooks & ne$les ( #b res]ve r[s1 leaves #f hooks & ne$les = selv$ge1 etc4 ,z previ\sly /at$1 ! front h>ness may be us$ = dressgoods fabrics4 ,9 ?is way ! design may be enl>g$ to any requir$ ext5t4 ,fig4 ,,xxxii4 illu/rates ?is me?od1 us+ an #h-r[ ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 ) #d front h>ness adju/$1 9 common use = ! manufacture ( dressgoods fabrics1 damasks1 etc4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxiv4 ,fig4 ,,xxxiv4 %[s a fabric design$ = dressgoods =m+ an all-ov]-set patt]n4 ,9 ?is design p>ts ,f & ,f mu/ be execut$ ) ! ,jacqu>d lea%es2 p>ts ,g & ,g c be execut$ ) front h>ness4 ,= example3 p>ts ,f & ,f require ea* #ajj hooks1 ! gr\nd "p to be wov5 9 #d h>ness brok5 twill4 ,we f9d ! answ] z to numb] ( w>p-?reads 9 ! repeat & numb] ( hooks requir$ = weav+ z foll[s3 ,f #ajj ?reads4 ,g #ajj 7because cov]+ ! same di/ance z ,f 9 "p ( ! fabric47 ,f #ajj ,g #ajj --- #djj w>p ?reads 9 repeat4 ,f #ajj hooks4 ,f #ajj --- #bjj hooks = figure4 #d hooks = weav+ ! gr\nd1 front h>ness4 --- #bjd hooks requir$ to weave design1 ,fig4 ,,xxxiv41 repeat+ ) #djj w>p-?reads4 ,,iv4 ,! ,c5tre ,tie-up4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxv4 ,! c5tre tie-up1 also call$ ! po9t tie-up1 has = its purpose ! enl>gem5t ( ! design 9 fabrics su* z table-cov]s1 dressgoods1 etc4 ,?is tie-up resembles 9 its pr9ciple t ( a common po9t-draw on ! h>ness-loom4 ,aft] draw+ f front to re> once /raight ?r\gh ! entire set ( h>ness1 draw f re> to front & repeat4 ,! only diff]5ce betwe5 h>ness-"w & ,jacqu>d "w is 9 ! fact1 t ) h>ness we comm5ce to draw 9 f ! fir/ h>ness /raight ?r\gh to ! la/1 ,a to ,b1 & back aga91 ,b to ,c2 b ) ! ,jacqu>d tie-up on ?is me?od ?is is arrang$ ?r\gh ! ?read+ ( ! comb]-bo>d1 hav+ a /raight-?r\gh leas+ ( ! h$dles & draw+ 9 ( ! w>p4 ,9 ,fig4 ,,xxxv4 !re is a cle> illu/ration giv5 ( ! pr9ciple ( ! c5tre tie-up on an #h-r[ comb]-bo>d ,a1 ,a1 ,b1 ,b4 ,9 lay+ out ! comb] bo>d1 x mu/ be divid$ by ! l9e ,c1 ,c1 into two equal p>ts1 ,d1 ,c1 & ,c1 ,d4 ,9 ! "p ,a1 ,a1 ,c1 ,c1 ( ! comb]-bo>d1 we comm5ce ?read+ ) lea% #a at ! left-h& re> corn]1 runn+ 9 succession t[>ds ! c5tre1 z indicat$ by ! arr[ on ?is "p ( ! comb]-bo>d4 ,9 "p ,b1 ,b1 ,c1 ,c1 ! ?read+ beg9s 9 ! opposite corn]1 to ! "r-h& 9 front1 ) numb] #a lea%1 ?read+ 9 rotation ! numb] ( lea%es f ! front t[>ds ! re>1 z aga9 indicat$ on ! figure by an arr[4 ,aft] leas+ & ?read+ ! h>ness1 ,no4 #a lea% w conta9 9 its two mails ! fir/ & ! la/ ( ! w>p-?reads1 z indicat$ 9 ,fig4 ,,xxxv4 by ! numb]s1 & ! rotation by ! arr[s1 ,s & ,s4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxvi4 ,fig4 ,,xxxvi4 repres5ts ?is c5tre or po9t tie-up appli$ to a #bjj ,jacqu>d ma*9e2 comb]-bo>d1 #h r[s deep2 two full divisions2 ,a1 ,b1 ! fir/ division2 ,b1 ,d1 ! second division2 ,c & ,c =m+ ! c5tre 9 ea* division4 ,?is ma*9e w1 if ti$-up 9 ?is mann]1 produce a design requir+ #djj w>p-?reads4 ,we mu/ arrange ! design = ?is tie-up s z to repeat =w>ds & backw>ds respectively 9 ! c5tre4 ,su* a design w run upw>ds at a giv5 angle to a def9ite po9t1 !n x w return by ! same angle 9 an opposite direction until x rea*es ! base f :i* x orig9ally />t$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxvii4 ,9 ?is mann] design1 ,fig4 ,,xxxvii41 is con/ruct$4 ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,c1 ,d1 correspond ) ! same lett]s us$ 9 ,fig4 ,,xxxvi42 h5ce1 x w readily expla9 itself1 z well z ! me?od to be obs]v$ 9 design+ = ?is k9d ( tie-up4 ,! design runs /raight ?r\gh f ,a to ,c1 & repeats itself backw>ds f ,c to ,b1 f9i%+ at ,b ! fir/ full division4 ,b-,c equal ,a-,c1 ,c-,d ,c-,b1 =m+ ! second division4 ,any *anges z to diff]5t sizes ( ma*9es1 r[s deep ( comb]-bo>d1 or numb] ( divisions1 mu/ be execut$ ^u ! pr9ciple expla9$ 9 ?is article4 ,v4 8,/raight-,?r\gh0 & 8,po9t0 ,tie-ups ,comb9$4 ,a4--,= fabrics requir+ = _! c5tres a /raight-?r\gh tie-up & = _! bord]s a po9t tie-up1 "o-half division ( x = ea* bord]4 ,^! tie-ups are us$ to a great ext5t = napk9s1 h&k]*iefs1 sc>fs1 & simil> damask fabrics1 9 :i* ! c5tre "p ( ! fabric is work$ on ! /raight-?r\gh me?od2 ! bord]s on ea* side on ! po9t tie-up1 repeat+ equally f c5tre t[>ds ! selv$ge4 ,9 ! o!r two bord]s to be wov5 at ! beg9n+ & ! end ( ! fabric1 ! same pr9ciple is obs]v$1 ?us produc+ f\r corn] squ>es1 only two ( :i* ne$ be design$1 z ! o!r two repeat ?r\gh ! arrangem5t ( ! tie-up1 :i* mu/ repeat equally t[>ds bo? sides ( ! bord] at ! connect+ places4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxviii4 ,fig4 ,,xxxviii4 illu/rates ?is me?od ( ty+-up a #bjj ma*9e1 us+ #aib hooks & ne$les1 equal to #bd long r[s ( a regul> #h-r[ deep ma*9e4 ,! ma*9e is divid$ into two sections1 z foll[s3 ,ne$les #a to #if = ! #a/ section or c5tre4 #ig #aib #b;d ! bord]4 #d repeats ( c5tre1 #d x #if #chd ends4 #b repeats ( bord]1 "o = ea* side1 #b x #if #aib ---- #egf ends 9 fabric1 n includ+ selv$ge4 ,illu/ration ,! draw+ repres5ts f\r divisions = ! c5tre1 h5ce f\r h>ness-cords = ea* lea%4 ,! bord]1 hav+ only two repeats 9 ! fabric1 w conta9 only two h>ness-cords to "o lea%4 ,9 ! draw+ ! fir/ full r[ ( ! ma*9e is indicat$1 :i* is equal to ! fir/ r[ deep ( e c5tre division2 conta9+ h>ness-cords #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1 #f1 #g1 & #h4 ,we also %[ 7heavy l9e7 ! la/ c5tre lea%1 ,no4 #if be+ ! la/ hook ( r[ #ab ( ! ma*9e4 ,! bord]s ,a & ,a are f ! same design1 b ! figure runs 9 an opposite direction 9 ea* "o1 z indicat$ by ! arr[s 9 ! comb]-bo>d above4 ,bord] ,a comm5ces ) h>ness-cord f lea% #aib1 end+ ) h>ness-cord f lea% #ig1 ne> ! c5tre design4 ,bord] ,a comm5ces ) h>ness-cord f lea% #ig1 ne> ! c5tre design1 end+ ) h>ness-cord f lea% #aib ne> ! selv$ge4 ,! great difficulty to be ov]come 9 arrang+ ^! patt]ns = ! loom is 9 ! union ( ! two tie-ups1 ! /raight-?r\gh & ! po9t4 ,z previ\sly /at$1 ! bord]s ,a & ,a are made ) ! po9t tie-up1 :ile ! rema9d] ( ! bord]s are made ) ! /raight-?r\gh tie-up4 ,! comb9ation ( ^! two tie-ups occurs 9 ! corn] squ>es ( ! bord]1 & ! arrangem5t mu/ be su* z w p]mit ! two sides ( ! corn] patt]ns to prop]ly unite ) ! design = ! balance ( ! bord]4 ,gr\nd plan = above fabric3 ,lett]s ,a1 ,c1 ,d1 ,b1 ,f1 correspond to same lett]s z us$ on ! outside ( fabric design4 ,s1 ,s1 ,s1 ,s1 ,s1 also correspond = c5tre division4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxix4 ,= ! purpose ( giv+ a correct compreh5sion ( ! =ego+ explanation ( ty+-up1 b "u a diff]5t arrangem5t1 ,fig4 ,,xxxix4 0 design$ = a #fjj ma*9e1 hav+ ! same arrangem5t ( ! bord]s1 viz43 po9t tie-up1 us+ "o-half division = ea* side2 ! c5tre a /raight tie-up1 b employ+ only "o repeat4 ,! foll[+ p>ticul>s w expla9 ! entire proc$ure3 #bjj ne$les & hooks are us$ = bord]s1 po9t tie-up1 once ?r\gh1 equals #a_/b division = ea* bord]4 ,see lett]s ,b & ,b on comb]-bo>d4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xl4 #djj ne$les & hooks are us$ = c5tre1 /raight tie-up1 "o repeat4 ,see lett] ,c on comb]-bo>d4 #bjj ends = ea* bord]1 #djj w>p-?reads4 c5tre1 #djj ---- #hjj w>p-?reads4 ,9 ! gr\nd plan ( ! fabric ,a is ! c5tre2 ,b1 ,b1 ,b1 ,b1 bord]s2 ,c1 ,c1 ,c1 ,c1 corn]s4 ,fig4 ,,xl4 is a fabric design execut$ on ?is pr9ciple3 a to b1 bord]2 c to d1 c5tre2 b to a1 repeat ( ! fir/ bord]4 ,/raight-,?r\gh & ,po9t ,tie-ups ,comb9$4 ,b4--,= fabrics requir+ = _! c5tres a /raight-?r\gh tie-up1 & = _! bord] on po9t tie-up "o full division = ea* bord]4 ,?is arrangem5t ( bo? f\ndation tie-ups resembles ! prec$+4 ,! only diff]5ce is f\nd 9 employ+ ! full division ( ! c5tre or po9t tie-up = ea* bord] in/ead ( ! half division4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xli4 ,fig4 ,,xli4 illu/rates ?is me?od ( ty+-up adju/$ to a #fjj ,jacqu>d ma*9e4 ,! c5tre ( ! fabric requires #djj ne$les & hooks 9 #f repeats or divisions1 or #djj #f #bdjj w>p-?reads4 ,! bord] calls = #bjd ne$les & hooks1 po9t tie-up1 "o full division = ea* side1 or #bjd #b x #b #haf w>p-?reads4 ,! arrangem5t ( m>g9 & selv$ge1 z appli$ on ea* side1 is expla9$ sep>ately ?r\gh gr\nd plan ( comb]-bo>d by fig4 ,,xlii4 ,! m>g9 calls = #h ne$les & #h hooks 9 ma*9e1 #f repeats ( same = ea* side1 or #if w>p-?reads4 ,! selv$ge is =m$ by #b1 #d or #h ne$les1 7work+ pla971 & has #bd h$dles = ea* side or #dh selv$ge-?reads 9 w>p4 ,^! selv$ge ends may1 if pref]r$1 be drawn two ends 9 "o h$dle4 ,by add+ ^! diff]5t sy/ems ( ?reads we f9d3 ,c5tre #bdjj w>p-?reads4 ,bord]s #haf 7#had if po9t drawn only once47 ,m>g9 #if ,selv$ge #dh ----- #ccfj ?reads 9 w>p4 ,= ! c5tre "p ( ! fabric1 ne$le & hook #a to #djj are us$4 bord] #dja #fjd m>g9 #fje #fab ,leav+ "o complete r[ ( ! res]ve to use = selv$ge1 etc41 if requir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xlii4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xliii4 ,9 draw+1 ,fig4 ,,xli41 we only illu/rate c5tre & bord] ( ! tie-up1 s z n to confuse ! eye by too _m l9es1 &1 z m5tion$ at ! beg9n+1 employ$ ,fig4 ,,xlii4 = illu/rat+ ! gr\nd plan = selv$ge & m>g94 ,9 selv$ge & m>g9 ! h>ness-cords are indicat$ by consecutive numb]s1 ?us3 ,m>g91 #a to #dh4 ,selv$ge1 #a #bd4 ,:5 ?read+ m>g9 9 comb]-bo>d3 #a1 #i1 #ag1 #be1 #cc1 #da1 call = ! same lea%4 #b1 #aj1 #ah1 #bf1 #cd1 #db1 #c1 #aa1 #ai1 #bg1 #ce1 #dc1 #d1 #ab1 #bj1 #bh1 #cf1 #dd1 #e1 #ac1 #ba1 #bi1 #cg1 #de1 #f1 #ad1 #bb1 #cj1 #ch1 #df1 #g1 #ae1 #bc1 #ca1 #ci1 #dg1 #h1 #af1 #bd1 #cb1 #dj1 #dh1 ,lea%es 9 c5tre "p ( fabric1 #a to #djj call = #f h>ness-cords4 bord] #dja #fjd #d m>g9 #fje #fab #ab = selv$ge if us+ #d hooks1 #fac #faf #ab ,?is tie-up is ! "o mo/ frequ5tly employ$ 9 ! manufacture ( damask table-cov]s4 ,n only w draw+s & explanations lead to a ?or\gh und]/&+ ( ! proc$ure1 b !y w also readily %[ ! great v>iety ( textile fabrics to :i* ! pr9ciple ( ?is tie-up may be appli$4 ,fig4 ,,xliii4 illu/rates ! m>g9 arrang$ #h ?reads = ea* r[1 & #e r[s or #dj ?reads = ea* side4 ,! selv$ge 9 ?is draw+ is illu/rat$ by "o complete r[ ( #ab d\ble ?reads = ea* side4 ,! selv$ge & m>g9 holes are all repres5t$ %ad$4 ,! selv$ge is m>k$ ,s 9 addition to ! numb]4 ,! five m>g9 r[s are indicat$ ea* by figures #a to #h4 ,! ne>e/ r[ ( bord] is also repres5t$1 be+ numb]$ #dja to #dab1 correspond+ to ,fig4 ,,xli4 ,?is me?od ( us+ only #h r[s ( ! #ab-r[ deep comb]-bo>d is ext5sively us$ 9 fabrics ( a common texture1 employ+ an #h h>ness sat9 = ! m>g9 z weave1 :i* repeats once = ea* r[ 9 comb]-bo>d4 ,besides1 a great advantage results f be+ able to tie-up #h lea%es ?read$ #h r[s deep 9 comb]-bo>d to ! #h hooks 9 #a r[ ( ! ma*9e1 :i* ! weave calls =4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xliv4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xlv4 ,fig4 ,,xliv4 & ,fig4 ,,xlv4 repres5t designs = fabrics execut$ on ?is me?od ( ty+-up4 ,fig4 ,,xliv4--,a to ,b bord]1 ,c ! c5tre4 ,b ,d m>g91 betwe5 c5tre & bord]4 ,d ,e #a repeat ( ! c5tre1 #f times ov] 9 wid? ( fabric4 ,fig4 ,,xlv4--,a to ,b bord]1 ,c its c5tre4 ,b ,d c5tre1 #f times ov] 9 wid? ( fabric4 ,/raight-,?r\gh & ,po9t ,tie-ups ,comb9$4 ,c4--,= fabrics hav+ ! c5tre = /raight-?r\gh1 ) ! bord] = /raight-?r\gh & po9t tie-ups1 7half divisions71 comb9$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xlvi4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xlvii4 ,?is me?od ( ty+-up is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 ,,xlvi41 & ! fabric produc$ 9 ,fig4 ,,xlvii4 ,) ?is me?od ( ty+-up is usually introduc$ an extra m>g9 = ! purpose ( sep>at+ ! ornam5tation ( ! design1 s z to p]mit ( a cle>] def9ition4 ,?is is ti$-up on #h ne$les & hooks1 situat$ betwe5 bord] & c5tre1 7#bd ends7 %[n at m>g9 ,b 9 ! design4 ,! c5tre ( ! fabric1 7two divisions only illu/rat$ out ( t5 actually us$71 is ti$-up on ! /raight-?r\gh me?od1 requir+ = its work+1 h>ness-cords #a to #bdj4 ,! bord] has ! po9t tie-up 9 half sections2 ^! half sections h a /raight-?r\gh tie-up design 9 its c5tre4 ,h>ness-cords #bda to #def are us$ = ! /raight-?r\gh section1 & #deg to #fjj = ! po9t tie-up section4 ,! m>g9 is produc$ by h>ness-cords #fja to #fjh1 leav+ #af ne$les & hooks ( ! ma*9e unemploy$1 :i* may be us$ = selv$ge or o!r purposes4 ,! draw+ ( ?is tie-up & fabric illu/rates only ! "r-h& side4 ,! complete design requires1 9 addition to ! bord]s & m>g9s1 #aj divisions or repeats 9 ! c5tre4 ,! figure %[s only two ( ^! repeats & bord] & m>g9s ( "o side4 ,! numb] ( ends 9 ! fabric is f\nd z foll[s3 ,c5tre1 #aj #bdj #bdjj ends4 ,bord]1 po9t1 #d #add #egf #ajjh /raight1 #b #baf #dcb ,m>g91 betwe5 bord] & c5tre1 #bd #b #dh #add betwe5 bord] & selv$ge1 #dh #b #if ,selv$ge1 n indicat$ 9 draw+ ( tie-up1 #dh ---- #cfbj ends 9 w>p4 ,numb] ( h>ness-cords requir$ = ea* lea%3 ,lea%es #a to #bdj #aj cords to #a lea%4 #bda #def #b #a #deg #fjj #d #a #fja #fjh #ah #a ,selv$ge lea%es1 if work$ by #d ne$les & hooks1 #ab cords to #a lea%4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xlviii4 ,fig4 ,,xlviii41 on page #db1 illu/rates ano!r fabric design to be execut$ on ?is me?od ( tie-up4 ,a to ,d ,bord] ,a to ,b po9t tie-up ) ,c to ,d4 ,b to ,c /raight-?r\gh "p4 ,d to ,e ,c5tre1 fir/ repeat1 division1 = /raight-?r\gh4 ,/raight-,?r\gh & ,po9t ,tie-ups ,comb9$4 ,d4--,= fabrics compos$ ( ! /raight-?r\gh tie-up = c5tre2 ! po9t tie-up1 half divisions1 & ! po9t tie-up1 full divisions1 = bord]s4 ,?is me?od ( tie-up is us$ to a great ext5t 9 ! manufacture ( damask napk9s1 conta9+ 9 its c5tre ! monogram ( hotels1 re/aurants1 or private names4 ,?is effect is produc$ by float+ ! fill+4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xlix4 ,9 ?is mann]1 we f9d tie-up1 ,fig4 ,,xlix41 & fabric sample1 ,fig4 ,l41 execut$1 us+ = explanation a #djj ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 c]ta9ly v l[ texture = ^! fabrics4 ,9 case ( a high] texture be+ necess>y1 ea* effect mu/ be proportionally increas$4 ,! ma*9es mo/ g5]ally us$ = ?is class ( fabrics are ( ! #ijj-abjj d5om9ation4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,l4 ,tak+ ! pres5t tie-up into consid]ation1 we f9d ! c5tre = =m+ ! monogram1 conta9+ #bjj h>ness-cords ti$-up /raight-?r\gh ! bord]s on ea* side ( ! monogram1 is execut$ on ! po9t tie-up1 "o-half section = ea* side1 tak+ #ajj ne$les & hooks1 or h>ness-cords4 ,! outside bord] on ea* side is execut$ on ! po9t tie-up1 us+ "o complete division ( x = ea* side2 & 9 addition1 #ajj h>ness-cords = ! work+4 ,add+ ^! v>i\s divisions ( ! h>ness-cords gives ! numb] ( w>p-?reads z foll[s1 viz43 ,bord]1 ,n1 #ajj ne$les on po9t #bjj ?reads1 7#aii if omitt+ ! po9t ! second "t74 ,m1 #ajj ne$les on /raight #ajj ,c5tre1 ,l1 #bjj /raight #bjj ,bord]1 ,m1 #ajj return #ajj ,n1 #ajj po9t #bjj 7#aii if omitt+ ! ----- d\ble po9t47 #hjj ?reads4 ,= numb] ( h>ness cords to ea* lea% we f9d3 ,ne$les & hooks1 #a to #ajj #d cords to ea* lea%4 #aja #bjj #b #bja #djj #a cord ,fig4 ,,li4 illu/rates a fabric1 damask table-cov]1 to be execut$ on ! same pr9ciple4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,li4 ,m>g9 a to b & h to i4 small b to c & return c to d ,po9t4 ,bord] f g g h ma9 d e e f ,c5tre #a/ division i to k1 /raight-?r\gh4 ,?is fabric c also be execut$ on ! tie-up expla9$ ?r\gh ,fig4 ,,xli41 z foll[s3 ,bord] a to i on po9t tie-up1 e = c5tre or po9t4 ,c5tre #a/ division i to k1 /raight-?r\gh4 ,/raight-,?r\gh & ,po9t ,tie-ups ,comb9$4 ,e4--,mix$ ,tie-up4 ,conta9+ 9 "o repeat ( ! design ! /raight-?r\gh tie-up & ! po9t tie-up1 "o full division1 = ! c5tre2 ! po9t tie-up1 9 half divisions1 repeat+ once ?r\gh on ea* side ( ! fabric1 to make ! bord]4 ,^! arrangem5ts ( tie-ups are us$ to a great ext5t 9 ! manufacture ( damask fabrics ( e d5om9ation4 ,! pr9ciple ( us+ mix$ tie-ups1 ,fig4 ,,lii41 is f\nd 9 ! necessity ( produc+ l>ge designs1 conta9+ v>i$ effects1 ) a proportionally small] ,jacqu>d ma*9e4 ,"u :atev] managem5t ! /raight-?r\gh & ! po9t tie-ups are comb9$1 _! pr9ciple rema9s undi/urb$4 ,e "t we arrange a ,jacqu>d loom on a mix$ tie-up1 we mu/ consid] t any subsequ5t design mu/ be arrang$ ) ref]5ce to ! same pr9ciple z ! "o 9 use1 o!rwise ! "w mu/ all be re>rang$1 :i* w\ld h to be done ev5 = ! smalle/ *ange 9 ! numb] ( ends = ea* effect4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lii4 ,fig4 ,,liii4 ,take = illu/ration a damask fabric1 ,fig4 ,,liii41 h&k]*ief1 bureau sc>f1 art squ>e1 etc4 ,! details giv5 w make ! "w q pla93 ,"p ( comb]-bo>d f ,a to ,b1 or ,d to ,c1 illu/rates "o-half ( ! bo>d & proc$ure ( ty+-up4 ,! design bel[ also %[s only "o-half ( ! fabric4 ,arr[1 ,g1 ne> comb]-bo>d1 & arr[1 ,m1 ne> fabric1 are plac$ to indicate ! direction 9 :i* a repeat is obta9$4 ,! fabric w =m its c5tre at ,d1 repeat+ t[>ds ea* bord] & selv$ge4 ,?is is illu/rat$ 9 ! comb]-bo>d by ! #a-r[ deep1 outside ( l9e ,a1 ,d4 ,h>ness-cords indicat$ by dott$ l9es4 ,! ?read+ ( ?is la/ m5tion$ r[1 z well z ! ?read+ ( ! half division ( ! po9t tie-up1 is indicat$ by arr[s ,h & ,k1 =m+ ! c5tre by means ( h>ness-cords #aic & #aic4 ,! /raight-?r\gh tie-up "p ( ! fabric is f\nd betwe5 ,e & ,f1 conta9+ #ab repeats 9 ! c5tre1 & also ! same numb] 9 ! l[] bord]4 ,9 ! comb]-bo>d is illu/rat$ ?is arrangem5t1 repeat+ ! fir/ r[1 conta9+ h>ness-cords #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1 #f1 #g1 #h1 twelve times1 & ! la/ hole ( ! ?ird r[ conta9+ h>ness-cord ,no4 #bd1 twelve times4 ,on ! bottom ( ! comb]-bo>d ^! #ab repeats are indicat$ by #ab small arr[s betwe5 p>ts ,e to ,f4 ,! fir/ r[ 9 ! fir/ division ( ! /raight-?r\gh tie-up is completely ?read$2 ! o!r elev5 h only ! h>ness-cord f lea% #a1 z indicat$2 ?is is done s z n to confuse ! eye ) too _m l9es4 ,! bord] ( ! fabric is arrang$ = h>ness-cords #be to #aib on ! po9t tie-up1 hav+ "o-half division on ea* side4 ,arr[ ,l indicates ! "r-h& bord]4 ,! bord] on ! left requires ! same h>ness-cords :i* are ?read$ 9 comb]-bo>d f "r to left2 h5ce ! bord]s ( ! fabric conta9 ! same design repeat+ f ! c5tre t[>ds ! selv$ge4 ,at ! beg9n+ we /at$ t ! use ( mix$ tie-ups made x possible to employ a small] size ,jacqu>d ma*9e = l>ge designs conta9+ v>i\s effects4 ,! foll[+ analysis ( ,fig4 ,,lii4 %[s v cle>ly h[ ?is is done4 ,numb] ( w>p-ends 9 "o complete repeat 9 wid? ( ! fabric3 ,bord]1 "r-h&1 #afh ?reads4 ,c5tre1 /raight-tie1 #bhh po9t-tie1 #afh #afh /raight-tie1 #bhh ,bord]1 left-h&1 #afh ---- #abdh ends w>p 9 fabric4 ,numb] ( ne$les requir$ to produce ! design3 ,bord]1 #afh ne$les4 ,c5tre on /raight-tie1 #bd ne$les4 ,c5tre on po9t-tie1 #afh ne$les4 #cfj ne$les requir$ = produc+ ! complete design1 ?us sav+ ! diff]5ce betwe5 #abdh & #cfj1 or #hhh ne$les2 all ( :i* is accompli%$ ?r\gh ! use ( ! mix$ tie-up4 ,numb] ( h>ness-cords requir$ = ea* lea%3 ,lea%es #a to #bd conta9 #bd cords = "o repeat ( ! entire design4 ,lea%es #be to #cfj conta9 #b cords = "o repeat ( ! entire design4 ,x is n always practicable to r$uce ! effects 9 a design to ! l[e/ possible numb] ( ne$les4 ,on acc\nt ( ! *anges 9 /yles1 x is be/ to arrange ^! tie-ups ) a view to giv+ z mu* opportunity z possible to ! design]4 ,9 ! pres5t tie-up exp]i5ce tea*es t x w be m advantage\s to arrange ! /raight-?r\gh tie-up ei!r = #f divisions to #dh ends ea*1 or #d divisions to #gb ends ea*4 #cfj ne$les1 z figur$ at ! beg9n+1 require a #djj ma*9e1 or1 c\nt+ res]ve r[s1 #daf ne$les2 h5ce we c1 )\t disadvantage1 increase #cfj ne$les to #chd or #djh1 :i* w give a great] scope1 if requir$1 to make a new design4 ,,vi4 ,! ,/raight-,?r\gh ,tie-up 9 ,two ,sections4 ,a4--,us+ ma*9e & comb]-bo>d 9 two equal sections4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,liv4 ,?is tie-up1 ,fig4 ,,liv41 is us$ on fabrics hav+ two diff]5t k9ds ( w>p1 :i*1 z a rule1 are ( diff]5t colors4 ,"o ( ^! w>ps is %[n work+ at ,b 9 ! comb]-bo>d1 & also at ! bottom-bo>d4 ,! o!r w>p employ$ = ! figure effect is %[n work+ at ,a4 ,fabrics t are made on ?is tie-up c also be made on ! common /raight-?r\gh2 b ! "w ( design+ & c>d /amp+ w be l>gely increas$4 ,9 ! illu/ration all ! figure-?reads1 & also all ! ?reads us$ = ! weave 7b9d]-?reads7 c be design$ )\t int]ruption to ea* o!r4 ,! break+ (f ( ! figures is ?us avoid$1 a ?+ q impossible :]e ! regul> /raight-?r\gh tie-up is us$4 ,! draw+ giv5 h]e) repres5ts ?is /raight-?r\gh tie-up 9 sections appli$ to a #bjj ,jacqu>d ma*9e4 ,! res]ve r[s are omitt$4 ,! ma*9e & ! comb]-bo>d1 x w be obs]v$1 are divid$ into two ev5 p>ts4 ,9 "o "p1 ! re> ( ,a1 ( ! comb]-bo>d we ?read only 9 ! lea%es f ne$les #a to #ajj1 & 9 ! o!r "p1 front ( ,b1 f ne$les #aja to #bjj4 ,h5ce1 ! fir/ r[ ( ! comb]-bo>d conta9s lea%es #a to #d & #aja to #ajd2 ! second r[ w conta9 lea%es #e to #h & #aje to #ajh2 ! ?ird r[ w conta9 lea%es #i to #ab & #aji to #aab1 & s on1 ea* division f9i%+ on ! la/ r[ 7#be?7 ) lea%es #ig to #ajj & #aig to #bjj4 ,! leas+ ( ! ?reads is always done by alt]nately ?read+ ! h>ness-cords ( section ,a ) section ,b4 ,h5ce1 fir/ ?read ( ! w>p draws 9 fir/ mail ( lea% ,no4 #a2 second ?read ( ! w>p draws 9 fir/ mail ( lea% ,no4 #aja2 ?ird ?read ( ! w>p draws 9 fir/ mail ( lea% ,no4 #b2 f\r? ?read ( ! w>p draws 9 fir/ mail ( lea% ,no4 #ajb4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lv4 ,fig4 ,,lv41 a fabric design = cloak+ = /raight-?r\gh tie-up 9 two sections4 ,a1 face w>p1 black silk2 ,b1 back w>p1 black cotton4 ,b4 ,us+ two ma*9es & a comb]-bo>d hav+ equal sections4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lvi4 ,sometimes two or m ma*9es are employ$ 9 produc+ fabrics hav+ two sy/ems ( w>ps2 ea* ma*9e work+ on its own sy/em4 ,9 ?is mann] ,fig4 ,,lvi4 is execut$1 repres5t+ a /raight-?r\gh tie-up arrang$ = two ,jacqu>d ma*9es1 ,s & ,h1 9 :i* ! w>p is drawn 9 ! ,jacqu>d h>ness z foll[s3 "o end f ma*9e ,s1 "o end f ma*9e ,h4 ,= explanation two #ajj ,jacqu>d ma*9es are us$ = ! purpose ( simplify+ ! arrangem5ts ( lay+ out & ?read+ ! comb]-bo>d4 ,a l>g] ,jacqu>d ma*9e = ! illu/rations w\ld require m lea%es1 & ! explanation w\ld be m difficult4 ,! comb]-bo>d1 a1 b1 c1 d1 is divid$ into two equal p>ts1 ,s & ,h4 ,ea* "p conta9+ ! h>ness-cord = "o ma*9e only4 ,! draw+ ( ! tie-up is arrang$ = two divisions1 & also readily expla9s any tie-up = m divisions4 ,! leas+ ( ! ,jacqu>d h>ness1 ,k1 is arrang$ 7z illu/rat$ 9 ! draw+ by lea%-rods p & r7 to comm5ce z foll[s3 #a/ end3 h>ness-cord fa/5$ to ,no4 #a ne$le ( ma*9e1 ,s2 #b;d end to ,no4 #a ne$le ( ma*9e1 ,h2 #c;d end to ,no4 #b ne$le ( ma*9e1 ,s2 #d? end to ,no4 #b ne$le ( ma*9e1 ,h2 #e? end to ,no4 #c ne$le ( ma*9e1 ,s2 #f? end to ,no4 #c ne$le ( ma*9e1 ,h2 #g? end to ,no4 #d ne$le ( ma*9e1 ,s2 #h? end to ,no4 #d ne$le ( ma*9e1 ,h4 ,^! eight ends1 =m+ ! fir/ complete r[ ( ! comb]-bo>d1 w use ! fir/ r[ ( bo? ma*9es2 ! second r[ ( ! comb]-bo>d w use ! second r[ ( bo? ma*9es2 & s on1 until e r[ ( ! comb]-bo>d1 ) correspond+ r[ ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 is tak5 up4 ,9 ! draw+ we h indicat$1 z usual1 besides ! fir/ r[1 ! la/ r[ ( ! ma*9e & ! comb]-bo>d2 or1 9 o!r words1 we %[ ! ?read+ ( ,w>p end #aic3 h>ness-cord fa/5$ to ,no4 #ig ne$le ( h>ness ,s4 #aid3 #ig ,h4 #aie3 #ih ,s4 #aif3 #ih ,h4 #aig3 #ii ,s4 #aih3 #ii ,h4 #aii3 #ajj ,s4 #bjj3 #ajj ,h4 ,?is me?od ( us+ two ,jacqu>d ma*9es1 on ! pr9ciple expla9$1 is employ$ on ,jacqu>d looms = dressgoods figur$ ) an extra w>p1 on uphol/]y goods1 & simil> textile fabrics4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lvii4 ,fig4 ,,lvii4 %[s a fabric design = a curta91 to be execut$ on ! /raight-?r\gh tie-up 9 two sections4 ,c4--,us+ "o ma*9e & "o comb]-bo>d3 ! ma*9e unequally divid$ & ! comb]-bo>d equally divid$4 ,to expla91 take ! regul> uphol/]y fabric tie-up kn[n z 8petty po9t10 on a #fjj ma*9e #ab r[s 9 dep?4 #fjj #ab #ej #b r[s res]ve #eb r[s 9 wid?4 ,we f9d us$-- #a r[ = selv$ge4 #aj r[s = b9d]s 7,b74 #da r[s = figure 7,a74 -- #eb r[s4 #da 7r[s figure7 #ab 7ne$les = "o r[7 #dib ne$les to be us$ = figure4 #aj 7r[s b9d]7 #ab 7ne$les = "o r[7 #abj ne$les to be us$ = b9d]4 ,suppose we h f\r divisions 9 loom1 h5ce1 f\r h>ness-cords to "o lea%1 = ! figure section1 or #dib #d #aifh ends ( w>p us$ = figure4 #aifh ?reads ( figure w>p require ! same numb] ( ?reads ( gr\nd w>p1 :i* mu/ be divid$ by #abj1 ! numb] ( ne$les & hooks set ap>t = x 9 ! ma*9e1 or--z ea* ne$le & hook c>ries "o lea%--#abj lea%es4 #aifh #abj #af repeats2 & #dh lea%es1 or f\r r[s 9 ! ma*9e1 mu/ ea* h #ag h>ness-cords c>ry+ #haf ?reads2 & #gb lea%es1 or six r[s 9 ! ma*9e1 mu/ ea* h #af h>ness-cords c>ry+ #aaeb ?reads1 #aifh4 ,,vii4 ,ty+-up a ,jacqu>d ,h>ness = ,figur+ ,"p ( ! ,design ) an ,extra ,w>p1 7"p = ,two ,sections1 "p = ,s+le74 ,?is tie-up 7! "* ( :i* is indicat$ 9 ,fig4 ,,lviii47 is us$ = textile fabrics hav+ two di/9ct w>ps 9 "p ( ! fabric1 & a s+le w>p 9 ! rema9d]1 = gr\nd only4 ,x w readily be se5 9 ! draw+ :i* expla9s ?is tie-up t "o "p ( ! fabric w h to conta9 m ends ( w>p p] in* ?an ! o!r1 z ! figur+ is done ) an extra w>p ^u ! regul> gr\nd clo?4 ,! numb] ( ends ( gr\nd w>p p] in* w1 z a g5]al rule1 be ! same ?r\gh\t ! fabric4 ,9 ,fig4 ,,lviii41 expla9+ ?is me?od ( ty+-up1 ! texture is twice z high 9 ! figure /ripe z 9 ! gr\nd "p ( ! fabric4 ,if #dj ends ( w>p p] in* are us$ = ! gr\nd1 #hj ends p] in* mu/ be us$ 9 ! figur$ "p1 ,b to ,c1 ,b to ,c4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lviii4 ,a #bjj ma*9e is us$ 9 ! illu/ration1 divid$ z foll[s3 #aej ne$les = ! gr\nd ov] ! entire fabric1 ,a to ,b4 #ej ne$les = ! figure effects1 ,b to ,c1 & ,b to ,c4 ,! comb]-bo>d1 !re=e1 mu/ be arrang$ accord+ly1 7#b-b_/c divisions 9 draw+ execut$74 ,! dep? ( ! comb]-bo>d is divid$ into two p>ts3 ,h1 ,m1 ,n1 ,k1 ! fir/2 ,m1 ,n1 ,o1 ,p1 ! second4 ,! fir/ conta9s lea%es fa/5$ to neck-cords atta*$ to ne$les #aea to #bjj1 or ! figure "p1 ,f & ,f2 ! second conta9s lea%es fa/5$ to neck-cords atta*$ to ! ne$les #a to #aej1 or ! gr\nd "p = ! entire fabric4 ,9 ! draw+ ( l9es %[+ ! h>ness-cords ( ! ,jacqu>d h>ness we h only indicat$3 ,a4 ,! gr\nd "p1 lea%es ,nos4 #a1 #b1 #c & #d 9 rotation1 & ,no4 #aej4 ,?is la/ lea% ( ! gr\nd w>p we h indicat$ by a heavy l9e4 ,b4 ,= ! figure "p1 ne$les #aea to #bjj are us$4 ,lea%es #aea1 #aeb1 #aec1 #aed1 are indicat$ 9 rotation1 also ! lea% op]at$ by hook #bjj2 ?is latt] "o be+ also l9$ m di/9ctly ?an ! o!rs4 ,^! explanations readily %[ h[ to adapt ! ty+-up = any textile fabric made ^u ?is pr9ciple to any numb] ,jacqu>d ma*9e4 ,,viii4 ,! ,/raight-,?r\gh ,tie-up 9 ,?ree ,sections4 ,! /raight-?r\gh tie-up 9 ?ree sections1 :i* is illu/rat$ by draw+s1 ,figs4 ,,lix4 & ,,lx41 is l>gely us$ 9 ! manufacture ( fancy plu%es & velvets1 & also 9 ! con/ruction ( any o!r k9ds ( fabrics 9 :i* ! face is figur$ 9 ?ree sy/ems ( w>ps1 or 9 two sy/ems ( w>ps = ! face & "o sy/em = ! b9d]4 ,if x 7 requir$1 ^! fabrics c\ld be made on ! /raight tie-up1 7,figs4 ,,xxv41 ,,xxviii4 & ,,xxx471 b1 z w readily be se51 !y may be work$ to mu* bett] advantage1 bo? = design+ & c>d-/amp+1 ^u ! me?od %[n "h4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lix4 ,fig4 ,,lix4 illu/rates ! me?od ( adju/+ ! lea%es to ! neck-cords & ?read+ ! comb]-bo>d4 ,9 ! example1 we use = describ+ ! me?od a #ijj ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 & foll[ ! ,engli% sy/em = plac+ x on ! loom4 ,! ma*9e is divid$ into ?ree sections3 ,section #a1 us+ hooks & ne$les #a to #cjj2 ,section #b1 us+ hooks & ne$les #cja to #fjj2 ,section #c1 us+ hooks & ne$les #fja to #ijj1 leav+ ! two res]ve r[s 7g5]ally f\nd 9 e ma*9e7 out ( ! illu/ration4 ,! comb]-bo>d is divid$ into two divisions l5g?ways1 7b ! same me?od mu/ be obs]v$ if m ?an two divisions are us$71 & also into ?ree sections 9 its dep?4 ,! numb] ( sections 9 ! comb]-bo>d mu/ correspond to ! numb] ( sections 9 ! ma*9e4 ,! ?read+ ( ! ma*9e is done f ! re> t[>ds ! front1 & f ! left t[>ds ! "r4 ,! ?read+ ( ! comb]-bo>d is done 9 a correspond+ mann]4 #cjj ends = ea* section 9 "o division1 divid$ by #d r[s deep ea* section1 mak+ #ge cross-r[s4 ,?read+ ( ! ,jacqu>d h>ness is z foll[s3 ,no4 #a f ,section #a1 :ite4 #cja #b1 %ad$4 #fja #c1 black4 #b #a1 :ite4 #cjb #b1 %ad$4 #fjb #c1 black4 #c #a1 :ite4 #cjc #b1 %ad$4 #fjc #c1 black4 #d #a1 :ite4 #cjd #b1 %ad$4 #fjd #c4 black4 #e #a1 :ite4 #cje #b1 %ad$4 #fje #c1 black4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lx4 ,& s on2 all ( :i* are %[n sep>ately 9 ,fig4 ,,lx4 ,r & ,r are = ! two-lease /r+s2 ,s1 ! successive ord] ( ?reads2 ,s1 ! numb] ( lea%es4 ,hooks & ne$les correspond ) draw+ ,a4 ,:ite w>p-?reads indicate section #a2 %ad$ w>p-?reads1 section #b2 black w>p-?reads1 section #c4 ,! f9e l9es 9 ,fig4 ,,lix4 indicate ! lea%es = ! fir/ r[ deep ( ! comb]-bo>d2 ! heavy l9es indicate ! la/ lea% = ea* section4 ,fig4 ,,lxi4 illu/rates a fabric design$ = ?is tie-up4 ,! v>i\s small /> effects are arrang$ on ! pr9ciple ( ! #e-leaf sat94 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxi4 ,,ix4 ,! ,po9t ,tie-up 9 ,?ree ,sections4 ,?is me?od ( ty+-up ,jacqu>d looms %[s ! po9t tie-up appli$ to ! ?ree-section arrangem5t1 on ! same pr9ciple z ! /raight-?r\gh 9 p>agraph ,,viii4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxii4 ,fig4 ,,lxii4 %[s ! comb]-bo>d divid$ into ?ree di/9ct sections1 m>k$ ,i41 ,,ii4 & ,,iii4 ,= explanation1 take a #cjj ma*9e2 all[ #ajj ne$les & hooks = ea* section1 di/ribut$ z foll[s3 ,section ,i41 #a to #ajj2 ,section ,,ii41 #aja to #bjj2 ,section ,,iii41 #bja to #cjj4 ,ea* section conta9s #bjj w>p-?reads2 & ! complete division ( ?ree sections1 #fjj ?reads4 ,! ?read+ ( ?ree sections1 illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 ,,lx41 is appli$ to ! pres5t tie-up1 z foll[s3 #a/ end1 f section ,i41 atta*$ to ,no4 #a h>ness-cord4 #b;d ,,ii41 #aja #c;d ,,iii41 #bja #d? ,i41 #b #e? ,,ii41 #ajb #f? ,,iii41 #bjb #g? ,i41 #c #h? ,,ii41 #ajc #i? ,,iii41 #bjc ,& s on4 ,x4 ,comb9ation ,tie-up 9 ,two ,sections4 78,tie-up ,amalgamate407 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxiii4 ,?is tie-up illu/rates ! po9t tie-up & ! /raight-?r\gh comb9$ on ! two-section sy/em4 ,9 ,fig4 ,,lxiii41 a #fjj ma*9e is us$ = illu/ration2 ! comb]-bo>d be+ divid$ into two p>ts3 a1 b1 c1 d1 = ,no4 #a section2 e1 f1 g1 h1 = ,no4 #b section4 ,no4 #a section requires ! use ( ne$les & hooks #a to #bjj on ! /raight-?r\gh pr9ciple1 f\r divisions1 tak+ #hjj w>p-?reads4 ,no4 #b section requires ! use ( ne$les & hooks #bja to #fjj on ! po9t pr9ciple1 "o division1 tak+ #hjj w>p-?reads4 ,! two sections ?us use #afjj w>p-?reads 9 "o repeat4 ,! ?read+ ( ! h>ness is z foll[s3 #a-bja1 #b-bjb1 #c-bjc1 etc41 end+ ) #bjj-bja4 ,?is tie-up1 z well z any *anges 9 ! arrangem5t & ! numb] ( ne$les1 7b n *ang$ 9 its pr9ciple71 is us$ = d\ble color figures ( w>ps ( l>ge design1 ) a small all-ov] figure effect 7,no4 #a section7 = ! gr\nd4 ,fig4 ,,lxiv4 is execut$ on ?is tie-up4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxiv4 ,,xi4 ,! ,/raight-,?r\gh ,tie-up 9 ,f\r ,sections4 ,fig4 ,,lxv4 %[s #chd ne$les & hooks ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 ?read$ 9 f\r sections 9 comb]-bo>d1 ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d4 ,! ?read+ ( comb]-bo>d is z foll[s3 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxv4 #a/1 ,no4 #a lea% 9 section #a4 #b;d1 #b #b4 #c;d1 #c #c4 #d?1 #d #d4 #e?1 #e #a4 #f?1 #f #b4 #g?1 #g #c4 #h?1 #h #d4 #i?1 #i #a4 ,& s on4 ,! ?read+ ( ! h>ness is expla9$ bel[ ! comb]-bo>d1 l & m indicat+ ! lea%-/r+s2 & w>p-?reads #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 f lea%es #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 are indicat$ z ?read$4 #chd times #d divisions make #aecf w>p-?reads4 ,,xii4 ,ty+-up ( ,jacqu>d ,looms ) ,comp\nd ,h>ness atta*$4 ,ty+-up ( ,jacqu>d looms ) extra comp\nd h>ness1 consi/s 9 apply+ two sep>ate sy/ems ( h>ness 9 ! loom4 ,! w>p-?reads1 aft] hav+ pass$ ?r\gh ! ,jacqu>d h>ness1 are pass$ ?r\gh h>ness 9 front4 ,ea* sy/em ( h>ness p]=ms special duty1 al?\gh !y are bo? work+ ! same w>p4 ,! ,jacqu>d h>ness is us$ = =m+ ! g5]al design on a l>ge scale2 ! second h>ness divides ?is patt]n into detail1 7twills1 sat9s1 or any o!r desir$ weave74 ,! above tie-up is necess>y 9 ! manufacture ( ri* damasks & simil> fabrics1 :]e a l>ge numb] ( w>p-ends is requir$1 ) a correspond+ly small numb] ( picks p] in*4 ,suppose a damask fabric to conta9 #cjj ends w>p p] in*1 ) only #ge picks p] in*2 or 9 ! proportion ( #d to #a4 ,n[1 to employ ?is pr9ciple ( mak+ f\r ends w>p equal to "o fill+1 ! size ( ! design w\ld be produc$ 9 ! fabric1 b ! ri*ness1 & also ! f95ess1 ( ! face ( ! fabric w\ld be entirely lo/4 ,to prev5t ?is x %\ld be ! object ( ! design] to keep ! f9e w>p-?reads entirely on ! surface1 to int]weave ! proportion ( ends v>y+ betwe5 w>p & fill+ 7z 9 example above1 f\r w>p-?reads7 sep>ately4 ,?is pr9ciple ( textures requires ! comp\nd h>ness to be atta*$2 or1 9 o!r words1 a ma*9e mu/ be us$ :i* is capable ( rais+ n only e alt]nate ?read1 b e ?ird1 f\r?1 or eigh? ?read1 if requir$1 = ! =mation ( ! body ( ! clo?4 ,fig4 ,,lxvi4 illu/rates z pla9ly z possible ! pr9ciple ( ty+-up to d ?is "w1 us+ a #ajj ,jacqu>d ma*9e = figur+1 comb]-bo>d ?read$ 9 ?ree divisions1 f\r h$dles to ea* lea%1 eight comp\nd h>nesses4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxvi4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxvii4 ,9 ! ty+-up ( ,jacqu>d h>ness f\r h$dles to "o lea% are g5]ally us$1 z illu/rat$ at c1 9 ,fig4 ,,lxvi42 ea* h$dle conta9+ "o w>p-?read4 ,fig4 ,,lxvii4 %[s ! arrangem5t ( ^! f\r w>p-?reads1 :5 us+ only "o h$dle to ea* lea%1 b 9 :i* ! mail conta9s f\r eyes4 ,?is me?od is less frequ5tly employ$4 ,in/ead ( us+ a #ajj ma*9e1 z 9 ,fig4 ,,lxvi41 ,a #bjj ma*9e 7/raight-?r\gh7 w require #hjj w>p-?reads = ea* division4 #cjj #abjj #djj #afjj #fjj #bdjj #ijj #cfjj #abjj #dhjj ,to *ange ! tie-up pr9ciple f ! /raight-?r\gh me?od to ! po9t me?od1 tak+ a #abjj ma*9e us+ f\r h$dles p] h>ness-cord1 #ifjj w>p-?reads w be requir$ = ea* division = repeat ( patt]n4 ,?is little example pla9ly %[s ! great advantage ( ?is me?od ( ty+-up looms = mak+ ! f9e/ damasks1 etc4 ,to expla9 ! g5]al me?od ( ?is tie-up1 comm5ce ) ,fig4 ,,lxvi41 :i* repres5ts a #ajj ma*9e1 ?ree divisions1 f\r h$dles to "o lea%1 eight comp\nd h>nesses4 ,x w n be necess>y to expla9 ! ?read+ ( ! comb]-bo>d1 z ?is is always done on ! same pla9 pr9ciples4 ,! f\r h$dles ( ! fir/ r[ deep ( comb]-bo>d em]ge bel[ ! bo>d at ! beg9n+ ( ! fir/ division1 m>k$ a1 a1 a1 a4 ,! fir/ r[ deep 9 comb]-bo>d 9 ! fir/ division1 & ! la/ r[ deep 9 comb]-bo>d 9 ! ?ird division only are %[n2 b z ^! two r[s also indicate ! fir/ & la/ r[s 9 ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 & z ! pr9ciple ( a1 a1 a1 a1 & b1 b1 b1 b1 has to be obs]v$ 9 e "o ( ^! #ge r[s deep 9 wid? ( comb]-bo>d ,e to ,e tak51 x w expla9 ! tie-up = ! entire numb]4 ,at c1 9 lea% a1 f\r di/9ct h$dles are adju/$2 ! same ?+ is repeat$ 9 e "o ( ! eight lea%es ext5d$ 9 draw+ bel[ ! comb]-bo>d1 giv+ 9 return1 ?us3 f\r h$dles & ?ree divisions 9 a #ajj ma*9e #d #c #ajj1 or #abjj w>p-?reads = ! entire fabric4 ,n[1 foll[+ ! fir/ h$dle d[nw>ds on lea% #a1 a1 c1 m>k$ on draw+1 d1 7indicat$ by dott$ l9es71 ,no4 #a h>ness ( ! comp\nd h>ness1 ,h1 is rea*$4 ,! cross ,x on ?is h>ness indicates t ! w>p-?read drawn ?r\gh mail fa/5$ on h$dle1 d1 mu/ also be drawn ?r\gh ,no4 #a h>ness2 ! next h$dle f ! same lea% w rea* ,no4 #b h>ness2 & s on until ,no4 #d h>ness is tak5 up1 :i* w f9i% ,no4 #a h>ness-cord ( ,no4 #a lea% 9 ! fir/ division4 ,! second h>ness-cord1 a1 w use h>ness #e1 #f1 #g1 #h2 ! ?ird h>ness-cord1 a1 w use h>ness #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 ov] aga91 z us$ by a2 ! f\r? h>ness-cord1 a1 w use h>ness #e1 #f1 #g1 #h1 ov] aga91 z us$ by a4 ,cont9ue 9 ?is mann] until lea% #ajj 9 ! fir/ division on h>ness #e1 #f1 #g1 #h1 is f9i%$4 ,! second & ?ird divisions /rictly repeat ! fir/4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxviii4 ,fig4 ,,lxix4 repres5ts ! side elevation = ,fig4 ,,lxvi4 ,9 bo? ( ^! draw+s "s ( ! lett]s & figures correspond1 z foll[s3 h>ness-cords a1 a1 a1 a1 9 fir/ r[ deep ( comb]-bo>d1 ,e1 ,e4 ,h %[s comp\nd h>ness set #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1 #f1 #g1 #h2 figures #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 on top ( comb]-bo>d repres5t ! fir/ r[ deep f ! front elevation 9 draw+4 ,new lett]s3 ,b1 ! w>p-beam2 ,z1 ! lease ( ! w>p =m$ by rods1 ,z & ,z2 ,o1 ! di/ance betwe5 ! ,jacqu>d h>ness & comp\nd h>ness set1 ,h4 ,d1 ! %$1 z =m$ 9 loom :5 weav+4 ,= illu/ration ( ?is %$ pick ,no4 #g 9 ,fig4 ,,lxviii41 %[s t lea%es #b & #c1 or a & a1 are rais$ at ! same "t4 ,lea%es #a & #d1 or a & a1 are n rais$4 ,! pr9ciple ( =m+ ! %$ = pick+ ! %uttle w be m p>ticul>ly expla9$ lat] on by ,figs4 ,,lxx4 to ,,lxxv4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxix4 ,at c1 9 ,fig4 ,,lxix41 ! beg9n+ ( ! %$ is %[n2 also ! la/ wov5 "p ( ! fabric1 c1 c1 c1 :i* is indicat$ z pass+ ar\nd ! brea/-beam1 ,f4 ,l1 ,l1 ,l1 ,l1 indicate lea%es #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 ext5d+ to ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e t[>ds neck-cords #a1 #b1 #c1 #d4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxx4 ,fig4 ,,lxx4 repres5ts a w>p-?read =m+ ! bottom "p ( a %$4 ,mail1 ,l1 & h>ness1 ,h1 occupy a position simil> to t ( mail & h>ness = w>p-?read pass+ ?r\gh ,no4 #a h$dle ( lea% a1 & h>ness #a 9 ,fig4 ,,lxix4 ,w>p-?read pass+ ?r\gh lea% ,no4 #b1 a1 & h>ness #b1 9 ,fig4 ,,lxix4 is ! same4 #d1 a1 #d1 #ac1 a1 #e1 #ae1 a1 #g1 #af1 a1 #h1 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxi4 ,fig4 ,,lxxi4 %[s a w>p-?read =m+ "p ( ! top %$ by rais+ ! lea%2 h5ce mail1 ,l1 is %[n rais$4 ,! comp\nd h>ness is suppos$ to be re/+1 :i* all[s ! w>p-?read to slide up to ! height ( ! requir$ size ( %$4 ,?is figure illu/rates pla9ly ! foll[+ w>p-?reads 9 ,fig4 ,,lxix4 ,w>p-?read pass+ ?r\gh lea% ,no4 #e1 a1 & h>ness #e1 9 ,fig4 ,,lxix4 is ! same4 #g1 a1 #g1 #h1 a1 #h1 #i1 a1 #a1 #aj1 a1 #b1 #ab1 a1 #d1 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxii4 ,fig4 ,,lxxii4 illu/rates ! side view ( a w>p-?read :]e ! hook ( ! ,jacqu>d is n rais$2 h5ce1 ! mail rema9s 9 its re/+ place4 ,foll[+ ! w>p-?read t[>ds c1 ! comp\nd h>ness is %[n rais$1 ?us =m+ "p ( ! top ( a %$4 ,?is figure is design$ to %[ ! passage ( ! w>p-?read ?r\gh mail ,no4 #c ( lea% a1 & h>ness ,no4 #c1 9 ,fig4 ,,lxix4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxiii4 ,fig4 ,,lxxiii4 illu/rates a ?read =m+ "p ( a l[] %$4 ,9 ! draw+ ! mail is rais$1 b at ! same "t ! h$dle ( h>ness is l[]$1 compell+ ! ?read to re/ on ! bottom ( ! lay4 ,?is figure is design$ to %[ w>p-?read pass+ ?r\gh mail ,no4 #f1 ( lea% a1 & h>ness ,no4 #f1 9 ,fig4 ,,lxix4 ,fig4 ,,lxxiv4 is a side view ( a ?read =m+ ! upp] "p ( a %$ :]e mail & h>ness h be5 rais$ ! same z 9 ,fig4 ,,lxix41 ! w>p-?read pass+ ?r\gh mail ,no4 #aa ( lea%1 a1 & h>ness ,no4 #c4 ,fig4 ,,lxxv4 illu/rates mail n rais$ & h>ness d[n4 ,?is *ange is n necess>y 9 ,fig4 ,,iv42 ! w>p-?read =m+ ! l[] "p ( ! %$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxiv4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxv4 ,9 ,figs4 ,,lxx4 to ,,lxxv4 ! foll[+ lett]s correspond ) ! same lett]s 9 ,fig4 ,,lxix43 ,z1 ne>e/ lease-rod to ,jacqu>d h>ness2 ,d1 %$ = pick+ %uttle2 ,c1 />t+ po9t ( %$ or la/ wov5 place ( fabric4 ,! ,k9d ( ,h$dles ,requir$ = ,comp\nd ,h>ness4 ,! eyes ( ^! h$dles are mu* long] ?an ^? ( common h$dles4 ,!y mu/ be suffici5tly long to all[ ! six movem5ts illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 ,,lxx4 to ,,lxxv41 h5ce ! height ( ^! h$dle eyes w influ5ce ! height ( ! %$4 ,work+ ! ,comp\nd ,h>ness by a ,sep>ate ,ma*9e4 ,= work+ comp\nd h>ness a sep>ate small wit*-loom is g5]ally us$1 ?us sav+1 to a great ext5t1 ! ,jacqu>d c>ds4 ,9 ?is mann] ! gr\nd may be easily alt]$ )\t *ang+ any c>ds1 x be+ only necess>y to *ange ! small set ( c>ds on ! wit*-loom controll+ "o repeat ( ! body weave = ! h>ness4 ,! numb] ( picks = ! h>ness c also be readily adju/$ to "o *ange 9 ! ,jacqu>d figure )\t di/urb+ ! c>ds ( any consequ5ce4 ,= example3 9 manufactur+ a damask fabric1 suppose f\r h>ness picks make "o *ange ( figure 9 ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 & x is necess>y to r$uce ^! f\r picks to "o *ange ( figure1 on acc\nt ( hav+ to use "s heavi] fill+1 or o!r simil> reason2 ?is alt]ation c be easily made :5 us+ two sep>ate ma*9es4 ,numb] ( ,comp\nd ,h>ness to ,use4 ,! numb] ( h>ness us$ is regulat$ by ! weave requir$ = rais+1 & ! weave requir$ = l[]+4 ,! numb] ( h>ness may v>y to a l>ge degree1 z we may use any suitable weave f ! #d-leaf twill up to ! #af-leaf sat94 ,z a g5]al rule1 = f9e damasks we use ! #h-leaf sat91 requir+ #h h>ness4 ,positions ( ,comp\nd ,h>ness ,dur+ ,weav+4 ,!re are ?ree di/9ct positions = ! h>ness3 #a/1 c5tre2 #b;d1 up2 #c;d1 d[n4 ,fig4 ,,lxviii41 p4 #fj1 illu/rates ! #h-leaf sat9 comb9+ fill+ & w>p up 9 "o design4 ,a few ,diff]5t ,weaves = ,work+ ,comp\nd ,h>ness4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxvi4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxvii4 ,fill+ ,weave z rais$ 9 ! upp] %$ by h>ness4 ,x ,ris]s4 ,o ,s9k]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxviii4 ,w>p ,weave to int]weave 9 l[] %$ ?r\gh h>ness4 ,o ,w>p on face4 ,x ,w>p d[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxix4 ,a4 ,fill+ up4 ,b4 ,w>p up4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxx4 #e-,leaf ,sat94 ,fill+4 ,w>p4 ,a great v>iety ( comb9ations ( diff]5t weaves = ?is class ( textile fabrics exi/4 ,x is only necess>y to illu/rate a few m examples to guide u 9 f9d+ ! pr9ciples und]ly+ ^! *anges4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxi4 #g-,leaf ,sat94 ,fill+4 ,w>p4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxii4 #h-,leaf ,sat94 #h-;,h>ness ,brok5 ,twill4 ,fill+4 ,w>p4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxiii4 #h-,leaf ,sat94 #h-;,h>ness ,fancy ,twill4 ,fill+4 ,w>p4 ,fig4 ,,lxxix4 is an example ( w>p & fill+1 b9d+ 9 a #d-leaf twill4 ,bo? sy/ems are illu/rat$ = a cle> und]/&+3 ,x ,fig4 ,a1 indicates ! rais+ ( ! h>ness = =m+ ! upp] "p ( ! %$2 ,o ,fig4 ,b1 indicates ! rotation ( draw+ w>p-?reads f ! upp] %$ into ! l[] %$4 ,draw+-9 draft is = #d-;h>ness 7/raight74 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxiv4 #aj-,leaf ,sat94 #aj-,leaf ,sat94 ,fill+4 ,w>p4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxv4 #aj-,leaf ,sat94 #e-;,h>ness ,sat94 ,fill+4 ,w>p4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxvi4 #ab-;,h>ness ,sat94 ,fill+4 ,w>p4 ,,xiii4--,ty+-up ,jacqu>d ,looms = ,gauze ,fabrics4 ,gauze fabrics are produc$ by a sep>ate sy/em ( weaves1 :i* h ! peculi> *>act]i/ic ( w>p-?reads n ly+ p>allel to ea* o!r4 ,"o k9d ( ?is w>p is call$ ! 8d\p+ w>p0 or 8:ip-?reads20 ^! are twi/$ ar\nd ! gr\nd-w>p4 ,! gr\nd-?reads1 z well z ! :ip-?reads1 :i* "w toge!r1 mu/ be drawn into "o d5t4 ,jacqu>d gauze c be work$ 9 v>i\s ways2 = example3 ,"o :ip-?read aga9/ "o or m gr\nd-?reads4 ,m ?an "o :ip-?read aga9/ "o or m gr\nd-?reads4 ,!re are two me?ods ( ty+-up = gauze fabrics3 #a/4 ,a tie-up 9 :i* ! d\ps are work$ by "o1 two1 ?ree or f\r %afts 9 front ( ! ,jacqu>d h>ness4 #b;d4 ,a tie-up 9 :i* ! gauze figur+ is done all ov] ! fabric1 requir+ ea* d\p to be arrang$ = work+ sep>ately4 ,if ! gr\nd-?reads & :ip-?reads are work$ f ! same ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 ! latt] mu/ be divid$ into two sections3 #a/ section = ! gr\nd-?reads ) gr\nd h$dles2 #b;d section = ! :ip-?reads ) /&>d h$dles4 ,if a fabric conta9s ! gauze 9 ! =m ( a /ripe1 arrang$ "o end gr\nd & "o end :ip1 ! same numb] ( hooks are requir$ = ! gr\nd & :ip-?reads ( ea* section1 & an extra dead h>ness mu/ be employ$2 b if ?is arrangem5t ( "o end gr\nd & "o end :ip mu/ =m figures1 !n ! gr\nd & :ip-?reads mu/ =m ! fir/ section1 & ! :ip-?reads alone ! second section4 ,9 ?is case ! second section requires only half z _m hooks z ! fir/2 & = ! same reason1 if we are =m+ figures ) two gr\nd-?reads & "o :ip-?read1 ! fir/ section w conta9 ?ree times z _m hooks z ! second1 etc4 ,v (t5 two :ip-?reads are us$ = twi/+1 9 :i* case !y mu/ be drawn toge!r 9 ! d\p4 ,if sev]al :ip & gr\nd-?reads are drawn into "o re$ !y usually "w indep5d5tly at fir/ on a regul> weave2 foll[+ ?is is ! gauze weave =m$ by a c]ta9 numb] ( :ip-?reads rais$ ei!r on ! left or "r ( ! gr\nd-?reads conta9$ 9 ! same d5t4 ,?is movem5t br+s into op]ation ! second section ( ! ma*9e conta9+ ! h>ness-cords = ! /&>d h$dles4 ,! te*nical t]ms = ^! v>i\s comb9ations are3 s+le-?read gauze1 d\ble-?read gauze1 triple-?read gauze1 etc4 ,! tie-up mo/ g5]ally us$ requires two-?irds ( ! ne$les = gr\nd h$dles & "o-?ird ( ! ne$les = /&>d h$dles2 h5ce1 if us+ a #bjj ma*9e we f9d3 #abh ne$les & hooks = ! gr\nd h$dles1 & #fd ne$les & hooks = ! /&>d h$dles4 ,see ,fig4 ,,lxxxvii41 p4 #fe4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxvii4 ,! comb]-bo>d is divid$ into two sections4 ,! re> "p 7#b_/c7 is us$ = ! gr\nd1 ! front "p 7#a_/c7 is us$ = ! /&>d4 ,?read+ ( ! ,h>ness4 ,?read ! w>p into ! gr\nd h$dles 9 ! same mann] z a common /raight-?r\gh tie-up4 ,!n take ! fir/ left-h& ?read ( ! w>p & draw x ?r\gh ! d\p4 ,! next two w>p-?reads draw above ! fir/ "o on ! left-h& side ( ! same d\p4 ,^! ?ree w>p-?reads mu/ be drawn toge!r 9 "o d5t4 ,aft] draw+ ! fir/ pair 9 "o d5t1 leave "o1 two1 or m d5ts empty1 accord+ to ! fabric4 ,! #d?1 #e? & #f? w>p-?reads1 also ea* subsequ5t pair1 are ?read$ ! same z ! fir/4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxviii4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxix4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xc4 ,figs4 ,,lxxxviii4 & ,,lxxxix4 are design$ = illu/rat+ ?is po9t4 ,! l+oes = ! d\ps are ab\t "o-half ! weight ( ^? us$ = ! gr\nd h$dles4 ,fig4 ,,xc4 repres5ts a fancy gauze to be execut$ 9 ?is mann]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xci4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xcii4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xciii4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xciv4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xcv4 ,fig4 ,,xci4 repres5ts ! ?read+ ( ! h>ness = a gauze fabric3 f1 g1 fir/ & second w>p-?read1 ov] ! d\p2 h1 i1 ?ird & f\r?1 ?r\gh ! d\p4 ,figs4 ,,xcii4 & ,,xciii4 illu/rate ! two movem5ts ( ! h>ness 9 ! gauze weave4 ,figs4 ,,xciv4 & ,,xcv4 illu/rate ! movem5ts ( ! h>ness 9 ! regul> weave3 a1 b1 repres5ts ! comb]-bo>d2 c1 ! place :]e ! d\p is fa/5$ to ! dead h>ness2 d1 e1 ! /&>d h$dle2 f1 g1 h1 i1 ! mails ( ! common h$dles4 ,! foll[+ are ! f\rte5 diff]5t movem5ts t might be requir$ 9 regul> weav+4 ,! figures %[ ! numb] ( ?reads up & ! numb] d[n1 ?us3 #a_/c equal fir/ w>p-?read up2 second1 ?ird1 & f\r? d[n4 #a4 #a_/c f up4 #b4 #a_/ab g up4 #c4 #a_/ba h up1 d\p rais$4 #d4 #a_/c i up1 d\p rais$4 #e4 #b_/b f & g up4 #f4 #b_/aa g & h up1 d\p rais$4 #g4 #b_/b h & i up1 d\p rais$4 ,illu/rat$ by ,fig4 ,,xciii4 #h4 #aa_/aa f & h up1 d\p rais$4 ,see ,fig4 ,,xcv4 #i4 #aa_/b f & i up1 d\p rais$4 #aj4 #aa_/aa g & i up1 d\p rais$4 ,see ,fig4 ,,xciv4 #aa4 #c_/a f1 g1 & h up1 d\p rais$4 #ab4 #c_/a g1 h1 & i up1 d\p rais$4 #ac4 #ba_/a f1 g1 & i up1 d\p rais$4 #ad4 #ab_/a f1 h1 & i up1 d\p rais$4 ,^! f\rte5 diff]5t movem5ts cov] all ! possible *anges 9 regul> weav+4 ,! movem5t 7#g7 illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #h1 9 addition to =m+ ! regul> weave1 is also necess>y to ! =mation ( ! gauze weave4 ,^! few explanations cle>ly %[ ! great v>iety ( effects possible = ! design]2 = he c figure ) ! regul> me?od ( weav+1 & c also figure gauze weav+ to ex*ange ) regul> weav+1 =m+ a sep>ate design on ! fabric4 ,modifications ( ! ,s+le ,lift ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e4 ,hav+ ?or\ghly describ$ ! con/ruction & action ( ! regul> ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 x n[ rema9s to illu/rate & expla9 its modifications4 ,among ! mo/ prom95t are3 #a/4 ,! ,d\ble ,lift ,s+le ,cyl9d] ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e4 #b;d4 ,! ,d\ble ,lift ,d\ble ,cyl9d] ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e4 #c;d4 ,! ,arrangem5t ( ,sub/itut+ 8,tail-cords0 9 place ( ! ,hooks1 etc4 ,i4 ,d\ble ,lift ,s+le ,cyl9d] ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e4 ,! pr9ciple ( ?is ma*9e consi/s 9 rais+ ! w>p-?reads any numb] ( times 9 succession )\t all[+ ! %$ to close1 ?us p]=m+ ! "w 9 ne>ly half ! "t1 & ) less we> & te> on ! w>p4 ,fig4 ,,xcvi4 repres5ts ! sectional cut ( "o r[ across all ! griffe-b>s4 ,! ma*9e select$ = ! illu/ration is ( ! #ab-r[ type4 ,jacqu>d ma*9es ( ?is description h two hooks to "o ne$le2 !re=e 9 ! draw+ tw5ty-f\r hooks are repres5t$4 ,two griffes are provid$1 ea* work+ e alt]nate hook4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xcvi4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xcvii4 ,9 ,fig4 ,,xcvi4 ! sectional cut ( bo? griffes is %[n1 & 9 ,fig4 ,,xcvii4 ! top view ( bo? griffes2 ! fir/ set is repres5t$ %ad$1 ! second black4 ,! =m] requires hooks ,nos4 #a1 #c1 #e1 #g1 #i1 #aa1 #ac1 #ae1 #ag1 #ai1 #ba1 #bc1 & ! latt] ,nos4 #b1 #d1 #f1 #h1 #aj1 #ab1 #ad1 #af1 #ah1 #bj1 #bb1 #bd4 ,?is arrangem5t p]mits ei!r hook to be lift$ sep>ately by ! griffes1 & a correspond+ elevation ( ! lea%4 ,z ^! griffes "w 9 opposition1 "o desc5ds :ile ! o!r asc5ds2 ?is motion prev5ts ! lea% f dropp+ ! entire l5g? ( ! cords1 s9ce ! asc5d+ griffe cat*es x at half di/ance z ! two griffes pass ea* o!r4 ,9 ?is op]ation ! %$ is nev] entirely clos$1 & a correspond+ ga9 9 spe$ is atta9$4 ,x w ?us be se5 t ! 8d\ble lift0 s+le cyl9d] has great advantages ov] ! ord9>y ma*9e4 ,( c\rse1 ! w>p-?read mu/ make its complete j\rneys up & d[n :5 call$ = by ! design2 b :5 once up1 x ne$ n be br\ght d[n until absolutely requir$ by ! patt]n4 ,! w>p is ?us subject$ to less friction 9 work+1 & x is possible to use y>ns ) less twi/ & obta9 good results4 ,! advantages aris+ f n clos+ ! %$ may be se5 9 ! foll[+ example ( a w>p-?read work+ on an #h-leaf sat91 9 :i* sev5 picks are up 9 succession4 ,by ! s+le lift ma*9e ?is w>p-?read mu/ travel sev5 times up & sev5 times d[n1 ?us clos+ ! %$ absolutely sev5 times1 ) a correspond+ we> & te>4 ,! d\ble lift s+le cyl9d] arrangem5t does n require ! w>p-?read to make ^! sev5 complete j\rneys to ! 8race-bo>d0 ( ! lay1 b in/ead x makes sev5 half trips4 ,! sav+ may be %[n by ! foll[+ analysis3 ,s+le lift ma*9e1 w>p-?read1 sev5 picks up 9 succession1 9 #h-leaf sat9 7w>p-face7 requir+ f\rte5 complete movem5ts4 ,d\ble lift s+le cyl9d] ma*9e requir+ = ! same effect3 ,up ! fir/ "t1 "o complete movem5t4 ,six times d[n1 half movem5ts1 six complete movem5ts4 ,six times up1 ,d[n ! la/ "t1 "o complete movem5t4 ,or eight complete movem5ts4 ,%[+ ! utility ( ! two ma*9es to be to ea* o!r z #h to #ad1 or #d to #g4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,xcviii4 ,fig4 ,,xcviii4 illu/rates ! complete d\ble lift s+le cyl9d] ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 z built by ,w4 ,p4 ,uhl+]1 ,philadelphia4 ,9 ?is draw+ bo? griffes are di/9ctly visible2 also _! mode ( op]ation by means ( ! d\ble-act+ lev]4 ,?is ma*9e has ! set ( hooks = ea* griffe-b> protect$ by a plate ( %eet iron1 ?us /eady+ ! hooks 9 _! motion1 & enabl+ small] crooks to be us$ = ! latt]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,ic4 ,fig4 ,,ic4 repres5ts a d\ble lift s+le cyl9d] ,jacqu>d ma*9e z built by ,?omas ,halton1 ,philadelphia1 atta*$ to a regul> broad loom1 7,kn[les or ,crompton71 & ti$-up = uphol/]y "w4 ,! griffe-b>s 9 ?is ,jacqu>d ma*9e are con/ruct$ ( su* height t :5 lift$ !y nev] rise above ! crooks ( ! hooks1 :i* are ?r[n out ( op]ation by ! desc5t ( ! o!r griffe4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,c4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,ci4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cii4 ,fig4 ,c41 hooks at re/4 ,fig4 ,,ci41 hooks #a & #c1 etc41 rais$1 #b & #d1 etc41 at re/4 ,fig4 ,,cii41 hooks #b & #d1 etc41 rais$1 #a & #c1 etc41 at re/4 ,,ii4 ,d\ble ,lift ,d\ble ,cyl9d] ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e4 ,! pr9ciple ( ?is ma*9e consi/s 9 ! comb9ation ( two sep>ate ,jacqu>d ma*9es4 ,two hooks 7"o ( ea* ma*9e7 are connect$ to "o lea% ( ! ,jacqu>d h>ness1 & z ea* ma*9e is op]at$ alt]nately1 a high spe$ is atta9$1 :i* is ! purpose ( ! ma*9e4 ,= example3 #adj picks p] m9ute 7spe$ ( loom7 only requires #gj picks p] m9ute f ea* "p ( ! d\ble lift d\ble cyl9d]4 ,9 ,fig4 ,,ciii4 ?is is cle>ly illu/rat$4 ,x %[s two #ab-r[ ma*9es 7,e & ,f7 comb9$1 ?us giv+ #bd griffe-b>s = ! complete d\ble ma*9e1 z ! griffes "w )9 ea* o!r4 ,z expla9$ = d\ble lift s+le cyl9d]1 e alt]nate b> is connect$ ) a sep>ate griffe1 & ^! two griffes are work$ alt]nately on ! same d\ble lev] arrangem5t4 ,o to ,p & ,o to ,p1 repres5t ! two ne$le-bo>ds2 ,p to ,r & ,p to ,r1 repres5t ! two correspond+ ne$le-boxes4 ,^! d\ble lift d\ble cyl9d] ,jacqu>d ma*9es are mo/ly us$ 9 ! manufacture ( turkey-r$ goods & simil> table-cov] fabrics1 us+ tie-ups simil> to ! "o illu/rat$ bel[1 :i* is a comb9ation ( ! /raight-?r\gh & po9t tie-up1 :i* may be allud$ to once m by way ( explanation 9 ?is p>ticul> case4 ,! illu/ration repres5ts a d\ble lift d\ble cyl9d] ma*9e conta9+ two #fjj ma*9es1 :i* equals an ord9>y #fjj ma*9e = ! tie-up4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,ciii4 ,?is tie-up conta9s six divisions = ! c5tre /raight-?r\gh1 & requir+ lea%es #a to #djj f ea* "p ( ! d\ble ma*9e4 ,lea%es #a1 #ab1 & #djj 7heavy l9es7 only are illu/rat$ 9 draw+4 ,! bord]s are con/ruct$ on ! po9t tie-up1 & require lea%es #dja to #fjd f ea* "p ( ! d\ble ma*9e4 ,! fir/ & la/ lea% only are illu/rat$4 ,! m>g9s betwe5 bord] & selv$ge are work$ by lea%es #fje to #fab4 ,c5tre & bord] are #ab r[s deep1 arrang$ 9 ! comb]-bo>d2 ! m>g9 #h r[s deep1 on acc\nt ( work+ x 7z is g5]ally done7 on an #h-leaf sat94 ,"o complete r[ 9 ma*9e1 7bo? p>ts71 z well z 9 ! comb]-bo>d1 7illu/rat$ on ea* side 9 draw+71 is left = ! selv$ge4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,civ4 ,fig4 ,,civ4 repres5ts ?is ma*9e 7built by ,?omas ,halton1 ,philadelphia17 atta*$ to a ,clipp] loom4 ,9 ?is draw+ bo? sets ( c>ds 7"o to conta9 ! ev5 numb]s1 & ! o!r ! unev5 numb]s7 are cle>ly visible1 & also ! d\ble lev] arrangem5t = work+ e cyl9d] alt]nately4 ,z ! cyl9d]s run at only half spe$1 ! we> on ! c>ds is r$uc$ to a m9imum4 ,,iii4 ,! ,sub/itution ( ,tail-cords = ,hooks4 ,jacqu>d ma*9es hav+ ?is con/ruction are g5]ally employ$ 9 ! manufacture ( +ra9 c>pets4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cv4 ,fig4 ,,cv4 repres5ts ! sectional cut ( "o r[ ( ne$les across ! ma*9e2 also ! necess>y bo>ds = guid+ & op]at+ ! tail-cords4 ,?is ma*9e consi/s ( two divisions 7,i4 & ,,ii417 :i* are work$ alt]nately = ! common #b-ply +ra9 c>pet4 ,a1 repres5ts ! top bo>d1 to :i* ! tail-cords are fa/5$ ar\nd a wire by knot %[n bel[ ! bo>ds4 ,ea* bo>d is #f-a_/d by #c_/d in*es1 ) a di/ance ( #a-a_/d in*es betwe5 !m4 ,b1 repres5ts ! 8,lift]-bo>ds0 7trap-bo>ds7 :i* are %[n 9 top view 9 ! special article devot$ to ! manufacture ( +ra9 c>pets4 7,fig4 ,,cix41 p4 #gd47 ,its dim5sions are #f-a_/d in*es by #a in*4 ,di/ance f top-bo>ds to lift]-bo>ds1 #i-a_/d in*es4 ,c to ,d1 ne$le-bo>d4 ,arr[1 ,s1 ! direction ( work+ ! cyl9d] t[>ds ! ne$les4 ,f to ,g1 ! ne$le-box ) its p9 = hold+ ! ne$les 9 position4 ,ea* ne$le is connect$ to two tail-cords1 z indicat$ 9 ! draw+1 "o = figure & "o = gr\nd4 ,h & ,l are ! two guide-bo>ds = ! tail-cords4 ,di/ance f ,b to ,h1 #g-a_/d in*es1 f ,h to ,l1 #h-a_/b in*es4 ,dim5sions ( ea* guide-bo>d1 #f-a_/d in*es by #c_/d in*4 ,ea* tail-cord is weight$ by a small lead weight1 z %[n at ,k 9 draw+4 ,9 ?is ma*9e ! spr+s = ! ne$les are omitt$1 & a bo>d l>ge en\gh to cov] ! ends ( all ! ne$les1 sub/itut$4 ,see arr[1 ,p4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cvi4 ,fig4 ,,cvi4 illu/rates ! re> view ( ! ne$le-box1 ,b1 & ! bo>d = press+ ! ne$les1 ,a4 ,c %[s ! hang]1 :i* is atta*$ 7movable7 to ! top ( ! ma*9e4 ,see ,e1 9 ,fig4 ,,cv4 ,ty+-up ( ,jacqu>d ,h>ness = ,two-ply ,+ra9 ,c>pets4 ,) a ,g5]al ,description ( ! ,work+ ( ! ,loom & ,con/ruction ( ! ,fabric4 ,two-ply ,+ra9 ,c>pet is an article compos$ ( two fabrics1 produc$ on ! regul> d\ble-clo? sy/em4 ,^! two fabrics are arrang$ 9 ! loom to =m figures by a simple ex*ang+ ( positions4 ,a great v>iety ( colors may be put into ea* ( ^! sep>ate fabrics1 7gr\nd & figure71 & ! mo/ elaborate designs may be us$4 ,on e "p ( ! c>pet :]e ^! two fabrics d n ex*ange1 ea* works on ! pla9 weave4 ,! ex*ang+ ( ^! two fabrics b9ds bo? into "o1 ?us =m+ ! +ra9 c>pet4 ,9 ! manufacture ( ?is c>pet f\r sets ( w>p-?reads1 & also f\r sets ( fill+-?reads are g5]ally employ$2 b1 if occasionally m or less %\ld be us$1 9 w>p or 9 fill+1 or 9 bo?1 9 ! same fabric1 ! pr9ciple ( ex*ang+ is /ill obs]v$4 ,if employ+ f\r sets 9 w>p & fill+1 two sets ( ea* are us$ = =m+ ! figure1 ! o!r two sets =m+ ! gr\nd1 ea* ( ! figure-?reads hav+ z its mate "o ( ! gr\nd-?reads4 ,^! ?reads are s arrang$ t :5 a figure-?read appe>s ^u ! face ( ! fabric its mate appe>s ^u ! back1 & :5 ! figure-?read appe>s ^u ! back ! correspond+ gr\nd-?read appe>s ^u ! face4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cvii4 ,to give a cle>] und]/&+ ( ! =ego+1 a sectional cut ( an ,+ra9 c>pet fabric is giv5 9 ,fig4 ,,cvii4 ,suppose ! fill+-?reads = ! figure to be3 ,,r$1 indicat$ by heavy %ad$ circles2 picks #b1 #f1 #aj1 #ad1 #ah1 #bb1 #bf1 #cj4 ,,black1 indicat$ by full black circles2 picks #d1 #h1 #ab1 #af1 #bj1 #bd1 #bh1 #cb4 ,& ! fill+-?reads = ! gr\nd to be3 ,,:ite1 indicat$ by empty circles2 picks #a1 #e1 #i1 #ac1 #ag1 #ba1 #be1 #bi4 ,,olive1 indicat$ by light %ad$ circles2 picks #c1 #g1 #aa1 #ae1 #ai1 #bc1 #bg1 #ca4 ,a c>eful exam9ation ( ! draw+ %[s t ! :ite ?reads mate ) ! r$1 & ! black ?reads ) ! olive1 s t :5 "o ( ^! colors %[s ^u ! face ! mat+ color w %[ ^u ! back1 & vice v]sa4 ,z a g5]al rule1 ^! w>p-?reads are ( ! same color z ! weft-?reads2 h5ce1 e fill+ pick1 appe>+ ei!r on face or back1 is b\nd by a w>p-?read ( ! same color4 ,! sectional cut repres5ts f\r di/9ct effects ) #cb picks1 ?us all[+ #h picks = ! illu/ration ( ea* "p4 #a/ effect1 picks #a to #h1 is gr\nd up 7:ite & olive74 #b;d #i to #af1 is figure up 7r$ & black74 #c;d #ag to #bd1 is #a/ effect 9 8%ot ab\t0 7r$ & olive up74 #d? #be to #cb1 is #b;d 7:ite & black up74 ,two me?ods ( ty+-up ,jacqu>d h>ness are 9 use3 #a/1 ! 8/raight-?r\gh0 pr9ciple1 7kn[n to ! trade z 8cross-po9t074 #b;d1 ! 8po9t0 me?od1 7kn[n to ! trade z 8c5tre-tie074 ,i4 ,! ,/raight-,?r\gh ,tie-up = ,+ra9 ,c>pets4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cviii4 ,fig4 ,,cviii41 p4 #gc1 repres5ts ! arrangem5t ( ! neck-cords ) ! h$dles 7?r\gh ! h>ness-cords74 ,!re are two sep>ate bottom bo>ds 9 ! ma*9e1 m>k$ ,a1 ,b1 = gr\nd & figure2 also two correspond+ lift]-bo>ds1 :i* are illu/rat$ sep>ately by ,fig4 ,,cix4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cix4 ,! f\r j\rnals are cle>ly illu/rat$ by ,fig4 ,,cx4 7ea* j\rnal c>ry+ its own set ( ?reads74 ,! fir/ ?read 9 ! loom 7left side7 w be f\nd on ! fir/ j\rnal4 second ?ird ?ird second f\r? f\r? ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cx4 ,?is arrangem5t ( ?reads1 #a1 #c1 #b1 #d1 is repeat$ ?r\gh\t ! fabric4 ,= an example1 a c>pet is %[n t]m$ 8extra f9e10 execut$ on #bf 8designs10 requir+ #bf #h1 or #bjh small squ>es = w>p on ! design+ pap]4 ,+ra9 c>pets are g5]ally wov5 "o y>d wide1 hav+ 9 ?is wid? two repeats or divisions2 h5ce ! numb] ( h>ness-cords = ! pres5t example is z foll[s3 #bf #h #bjh #b1 = gr\nd & figure2 #daf #b1 = two divisions1 #hcb h>ness-cords 7or #daf lea%es7 requir$ = ty+-up4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cxi4 ,fig4 ,,cxi4 illu/rates ! adju/m5t ( h$dle 7mail7 & l+o ?r\gh ! j\rnal1 ,j1 by means ( ! heavy knot at b4 ,?is knot mu/ be l>ge en\gh n to pass ?r\gh ! hole ( ! j\rnal4 ,! av]age measures = ! pres5t draw+ are z foll[s3 ,l+o1 f to g #i in*es4 ,h$dle1 e to f #h c to d #aj ,mail1 d to e #f_/h ,height ( j\rnal1 b to c #a-a_/h in*es4 ,connect+ cord ( h$dle to h>ness-cord1 a to b #f in*es4 ,?is draw+ w expla9 ! pr9ciple ( rais+ ! w>p ei!r by means ( ! h>ness-bo>d1 7arr[ #a71 or by means ( ! knot ?r\gh rais+ ! j\rnal1 7arr[ #b74 ,if rais$ by means ( ! h>ness-cord1 ! connect+ h$dle slides upw>ds 9 ! hole provid$ = x 9 ! j\rnal2 or ! j\rnal takes ! place ( a common comb]-bo>d2 b if ! j\rnal be us$ = rais+1 ! knot1 b1 w rise ) x1 c>ry+ ! h$dle ! same z be=e1 ! h>ness-cords becom+ slack by ?is movem5t4 ,9 ,fig4 ,,cviii41 p4 #gc1 ! j\rnals are arrang$ z foll[s3 #a/ j\rnal1 = gr\nd1 ,:ite1 #a/ set ( ?reads4 ,= repeat1 #b;d ,olive1 #c;d -- #bch times #c;d = figure1 ,r$1 #b;d ov]4 #d? ,black1 #d? ,9 ! same draw+ are also repres5t$ ! fir/ eight h$dles 79 bo? divisions71 z connect$ ) h>ness-cords #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1 #f1 #g1 #h2 also ! la/ f\r h$dles ( ! re> j\rnal 7f\r?7 connect$ ) _! correspond+ cords1 #djd1 #djh1 #dab1 #daf4 ,! fir/ r[ 7#a to #h7 illu/rates ! pr9ciple ( ty+-up ! h>ness & ! leas+ ( ! h$dles2 :]eas ! f\r h$dles 9 ! re> 7#djd1 #djh1 #dab1 & #daf7 %[ ! practical comm5cem5t ( ! tie-up1 i4 e41 f\r neck-cords 9 succession to f\r h$dles ( ! j\rnal4 ,a repres5ts bottom-bo>d 9 ! ma*9e :]e ! neck-cords = ! gr\nd h>ness-cords pass ?r\gh4 ,b1 ! bottom-bo>d 9 ! ma*9e :]e ! neck-cords = ! figure h>ness-cords pass ?r\gh4 ,9 ,fig4 ,,cix41 %[+ ! lift]-bo>ds1 ,a is also us$ = ! gr\nd1 & ,b = ! figure2 #bf r[s ( ! ma*9e are %[n = expla9+ ! tie-up = a texture kn[n z 8extra f9e10 or equal to #hcb h$dles 9 ! wid? ( loom 7"o y>d74 ,jacqu>d ma*9es = two-ply +ra9 c>pets are usually con/ruct$ ) #cd r[s1 & #cc-a_/b ( ^! are us$4 #cc-a_/b r[s h #cc-a_/b #h1 or #bfh ne$les1 :i* c>ry #ajgb ?reads1 ! numb] actually us$ 9 :at is t]m$ a full 8extra sup]40 ,%\ld only #cj ( ^! be us$1 hav+ #cj #h1 or #bdj ne$les1 & c>ry+ #ifj ?reads = w>p1 ! c>pet is t]m$ 8sup]20 & if #be r[s1 ) #be #h #bjj ne$les are us$1 c>ry+ #hjj ?reads1 ! product is call$ 8f9e0 +ra91 & repres5ts ab\t ! l[e/ grade ( ^! c>pets4 ,x frequ5tly happ5s t we f9d slight v>iations 9 ! numb] ( ?reads us$ 9 ! v>i\s grades ( c>pet nam$4 ,! patt]n may require su* a *ange1 or economy 9 production may induce ! mak] to use a small] numb]2 or1 z is done 9 a few in/ances1 a manufactur] may always make 8 8extra sup]0 on #cb r[s2 b all su* *anges are done by a correspond+ depreciation ( ! value ( ! fabric1 z comp>$ ) a full 8extra sup]0 ( #cc-a_/b r[s4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cxii4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cxiv4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cxiii4 ,fig4 ,,cix41 p4 #gd1 illu/rates ! full #cd r[s1 & indicates #bf r[s us$ = illu/ration ( tie-up 7#d r[s empty on ea* side74 ,9 p[]-looms ! rais+ ( ! diff]5t j\rnals is g5]ally accompli%$ by an arrangem5t ( cams1 b 9 h&-looms x is done by ! lift]-bo>ds4 ,9 ,fig4 ,,cix4 ! f\r l>ge holes on ea* side are made = ?is purpose1 & ! wires = rais+ ! j\rnals are %[n by heavy l9es 9 tie-up 9 ,fig4 ,,cviii41 p4 #gc4 ,fig4 ,,cxii4 repres5ts ! process ( lift+ ! j\rnals1 z foll[s3 ,fir/ pick raises lift]-bo>d ,a1 j\rnal #d2 second pick raises lift]-bo>d ,b1 j\rnal #a2 ?ird pick raises lift]-bo>d ,a1 j\rnal #c2 f\r? pick raises lift]-bo>d ,b1 j\rnal #b4 ,! two positions ( ! f\r 8tails0 9 ^! f\r picks are illu/rat$ z foll[s3 ,fig4 ,,cxiii41 hole 9 cyl9d]2 ,,cxiv41 no hole 9 cyl9d]4 ,! black spots repres5t ! knots1 ei!r z caught 9 ! slot or pass+ free 9 ! hole4 ,looms ti$-up on ! =ego+ pr9ciples h b "o op]ation ( ! ,jacqu>d ne$les = e two picks ( ! loom1 !re be+ an op]ation ( ! gr\nd & figure lift]-bo>ds 9 succession betwe5 ! op]ations ( ! ,jacqu>d ne$les4 ,ea* ,jacqu>d ne$le controls two tails1 "o connect$ ) ! w>p = ! figure1 7r$ & black 9 our example71 & ! o!r to ! w>p = ! gr\nd1 7olive & :ite 9 our example74 ,! draw+ ( ! lift]-bo>ds %[s ! slots = cat*+ ! tails 9 opposite directions f ea* o!r2 h5ce1 :5 ! figur+ tail ( ! ne$le is adju/$ s z to be lift$ by ! figure lift]-bo>d1 ! gr\nd-tail w n be act$ on by ! gr\nd lift]-bo>d :5 x rises4 ,to give a cle> und]/&+ ( ! =ego+ explanations1 a detail$ /atem5t ( ! op]ations ( ! loom necess>y 9 weav+ a piece ( ! fabric is %[n 9 sectional cut ,fig4 ,,cvii41 z foll[s3 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ,pick4 ,lift-bo>d ,lift-bo>d -- = = ,j\rnal ,color4 figure4 gr\nd4 lifts4 ,?reads d[n4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- #a ,:ite4 ,rises1 ,at re/4 ,:ite to b9d ,r$1 black1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #b ,r$4 ,at re/4 ,lifts :ite ,r$4 ,black = & olive4 b9d+ on back4 #c ,olive4 ,rises1 ,at re/4 ,olive to b9d ,r$1 black1 no lift4 on face4 :ite4 #d ,black4 ,at re/4 ,lifts :ite ,black4 ,r$ = b9d+ & olive4 on back4 #e ,:ite4 ,rises1 ,at re/4 ,:ite to b9d ,r$1 black1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #f ,r$4 ,at re/4 ,lifts :ite ,r$4 ,black = & olive4 b9d+ on back4 #g ,olive4 ,rises1 ,at re/4 ,olive to b9d ,r$1 black1 no lift4 on face4 :ite4 #h ,black4 ,at re/4 ,lifts :ite ,black4 ,r$ = b9d+ & olive4 on back4 #i ,:ite4 ,lifts r$ ,at re/4 ,:ite4 ,olive = & black4 b9d+ on back4 #aj ,r$4 ,at re/4 ,rises1 ,r$ to b9d ,black1 :ite1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #aa ,olive4 ,lifts r$ ,at re/4 ,olive4 ,:ite = & black4 b9d+ on back4 #ab ,black4 ,at re/4 ,rises1 ,black to b9d ,r$1 :ite1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #ac ,:ite4 ,lifts r$ ,at re/4 ,:ite4 ,olive = & black4 b9d+ on back4 #ad ,r$4 ,at re/4 ,rises1 ,r$ to b9d ,black1 :ite1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #ae ,olive4 ,lifts r$ ,at re/4 ,olive4 ,:ite = & black4 b9d+ on back4 #af ,black4 ,at re/4 ,rises1 ,black to b9d ,r$1 :ite1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #ag ,:ite4 ,lifts r$ ,at re/4 ,:ite4 ,olive to b9d & black4 on back4 #ah ,r$4 ,at re/4 ,rises1 ,r$ to b9d ,black1 :ite1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #ai ,olive4 ,rises1 ,at re/4 ,olive to b9d ,:ite1 r$1 no lift4 on face4 black4 #bj ,black4 ,at re/4 ,lifts :ite ,black4 ,r$ to b9d & olive4 on back4 #ba ,:ite4 ,lifts r$ ,at re/4 ,:ite4 ,olive to b9d & black4 on back4 #bb ,r$4 ,at re/4 ,rises1 ,r$ to b9d ,black1 :ite1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #bc ,olive4 ,rises1 ,at re/ ,olive to b9d ,:ite1 r$1 no lift4 on face4 black4 #bd ,black4 ,at re/4 ,lifts :ite ,black4 ,r$ to b9d & olive4 on back4 #be ,:ite4 ,rises1 ,at re/4 ,:ite to b9d ,olive1 r$1 no lift4 on face4 black4 #bf ,r$4 ,at re/4 ,lifts :ite ,r$4 ,black to b9d & olive4 on back4 #bg ,olive4 ,lifts r$ ,at re/4 ,olive4 ,:ite to b9d & black4 on back4 #bh ,black4 ,at re/4 ,rises1 ,black to b9d ,r$1 :ite1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #bi ,:ite4 ,rises1 ,at re/4 ,:ite to b9d ,olive1 r$1 no lift4 on face4 black4 #cj ,r$4 ,at re/4 ,lifts :ite ,r$4 ,black to b9d & olive4 on back4 #ca ,olive4 ,lifts r$ ,at re/4 ,olive4 ,:ite to b9d & black4 on back4 #cb ,black4 ,at re/4 ,rises1 ,black to b9d ,r$1 :ite1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cxv4 ,fig4 ,,cxv41 p4 #gf1 illu/rates a fabric design = an +ra9 c>pet1 /raight-?r\gh tie-up1 a & b =m+ "o repeat1 7or "o division71 equal to "o-half y>d4 ,,ii4 ,! ,po9t ,tie-up = ,+ra9 ,c>pets4 ,?is me?od ( ty+-up is bas$ ^u ! /raight-?r\gh tie-up pr9ciple1 arrang$ z foll[s3 ,! design 9 ! fabric repeats f its c5tre equally t[>ds ea* selv$ge4 ,illu/ration3 ,c5tre4 _/ _/ _/ _/ ,selv$ge4 ,selv$ge4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cxvi4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cxvii4 ,figs4 ,,cxvi4 & ,,cxvii4 illu/rate two fabric designs1 a to b1 ! wid? ( ! fabric or "o y>d on ! loom2 c is ! c5tre or po9t ( ! design2 b to d is ! repeat ( a to c1 :]e ! wid?s are sew$ toge!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cxviii4 ,fig4 ,,cviii41 p4 #gc1 %[s ! fir/ & la/ r[s1 also ! two c5tre r[s ( ! j\rnals ?read$ to ! neck-cords 7tail-cords7 ( ! ma*9e4 ,ea* cord is numb]$ to correspond4 a1 b1 c1 d1 repres5t ! cords = lift+ ! j\rnals1 on ! same pr9ciple z 9 ! /raight-?r\gh tie-up4 ,9 p[]-looms ?is is done by a cam arrangem5t4 ,fig4 ,,cxix41 p4 #hj1 is design$ to give a ?or\gh und]/&+ ( ! adju/m5t ( h>ness-cords to h$dles1 z well z ! leas+ ( ! latt]4 ,! numb]s select$ = indicat+ ! diff]5t cords correspond ) ^? us$ 9 ,fig4 ,,cxviii4 ,j\rnal #a :ite1 gr\nd4 #b olive1 #c r$1 figure4 #d black1 ,arrangem5t ( ?read+2 a to b1 #ea times repeat$1 #djh cords4 ,! la/ r[ 9 ! half wid? illu/rat$ sep>ately by c to d1 :i* is ! same z a to b1 #h #daf --- ,s =ms ! c5tre or po9t2 e to f1 fir/ r[ ( ea* j\rnal1 ne> c5tre1 7repeat ( c5tre-cord = gr\nd or figure omitt$2 see o on j\rnals #b & #d71 #f g to h1 #ej times repeat$1 #djj i to k1 la/ r[1 same z g to h1 #h #dad --- --- ,total numb] ( cords us$1 #hcj ,! foll[+ is ! me?od employ$ 9 draw+ = indicat+ ! diff]5t colors ( w>p-?reads3 ,blank = :ite1 gr\nd4 ,light %ad$ = olive1 ,heavy %ad$ = r$1 figure4 ,black = black1 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cxix4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cxx4 ,! beauty ( an +ra9 c>pet consi/s 9 its color comb9ation4 ,9 h&-looms ! common batt5 is us$ 9 connection ) a %uttle :i* is some:at curv$1 a =m mo/ suitable to be+ ?r[n by ! h&4 ,! batt5 naturally falls t[>ds ! weav] by its own gravity1 be+ usually work$ a little out ( a v]tical l9e = t purpose4 ,9 ?is me?od ! %$ =ms its own %uttle-race1 or b$ ^u :i* ! %uttle slides4 ,:5 two or m %uttles are us$1 !y are laid on ! wov5 piece ( c>pet be=e ! weav]1 & he selects !m z requir$4 ,if a solid %uttle-race is connect$ to ! batt51 ! w>p-?reads are press$ d[n ^u x & ! %uttle slides ^u ! ridge ( ! w>p-?reads4 ,9 ?is case ! 8fly-%uttle0 is us$1 & also ! 8drop-box20 ! latt] be+ op]at$ by "s ( ! res]ve ne$les ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cxxi4 ,fig4 ,,cxx4 %[s a %uttle-box me*anism = c>pet h&-looms4 ,z already /at$1 ! f\r j\rnals 9 p[]-looms are lift$ by cams or simil> contrivances4 ,9 ,fig4 ,,cxxi4 7repres5t+ ! ,crompton c>pet loom7 ?is cam arrangem5t is cle>ly visible2 ! cams are situat$ above ! j\rnals1 ! latt] be+ lift$ by means ( ! j\rnal rods f above4 ,! loom c>ries f\r %uttle-boxes at ea* end ( ! la!2 any "o ( ! s]ies at ei!r end c be br\ght into l9e ) ! %uttle-race at any pick4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cxxii4 ,9 "s looms ! j\rnals are also lift$ f bel[1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 ,,cxxii41 repres5t+ ! 8,kn[les0 c>pet loom4 ,9 ?is ! j\rnals are controll$ by a *a9 motion1 in/ead ( a cam1 op]at+ ei!r j\rnal at w1 :i* c n be done on a loom :]e ! j\rnals are actuat$ by cams4 ,?is p]mits ! %ad+ ( a fabric to be *ang$ )\t cutt+ out ! w>p & re-draw+ x4 ,! box me*anism 7f\r boxes on ea* side ( ! la!7 is positive1 & controll$ by a *a9 on ! same %aft z ! j\rnals1 & may be us$ ) ! *a9 alone1 or ) ! *a9 9 comb9ation ) ! c>ds4 ,! motion c be run =w>d or rev]s$ at w1 & any box call$ z desir$4 ,be=e clos+ ?is article1 x is necess>y to m5tion ! me?od ( work+ ! loom built ) a /ation>y 8%uttle-raceway0 & an indep5d5t 8comb10 ! latt] hav+ a reciprocat+ movem5t = beat+ up ! fill+1 & a ris+ & fall+ motion = br++ ! comb up into1 & tak+ x out ( ! w>p2 x has also yield+ racks & fill+ =ks1 & a cam s tim$ = op]at+ ! =ks1 t ! latt] w seize ! fill+ & c>ry x =w>d 9 front ( ! range ( ! said comb4 ,fig4 ,,cxxiii4 illu/rates ! side view ( ! comb & its lay2 also ! p>ts necess>y to be %[n = work+ ! same3 k1 ! indep5d5t lay2 d1 ! comb2 c1 ! re$2 a1 its la!2 b1 ! %uttle-race2 c1 ! brea/ beam ( loom2 oval r+1 d1 e1 g1 repres5ts ! motion ( ! comb 9 beat+ up ! fill+2 e1 r1 upp] %$ ( ! w>p2 e1 t1 l[] %$ ( ! w>p2 x1 ! %$2 h1 /ud fix$ to ! loom fram+2 h1 i1 to i1 k1 toggle connection ( lay to /ud1 h2 i1 m1 to m1 l1 crank connect$ at i to ! toggles2 l1 crank %aft2 p1 o1 lev] = rais+ & l[]+ ! lay1 k2 n1 its fulcrum2 s1 groov$ cam = work+ lev]1 p1 o4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cxxiii4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cxxiv4 ,! vibratory movem5t ( ! comb-lay = beat+ up ! fill+ is produc$ by ! action ( ! cranks ^u ! toggle connections2 & ! upw>d & d[nw>d movem5t ( ! lay1 to produce ! entrance ( ! comb into ! w>p & its )drawal !refrom1 is produc$ by ! action ( ! lev] ^u ! groov$ cam4 ,! comb1 d1 is con/ruct$ ( tee?1 :i* are secur$ toge!r by a bolt pass+ ?r\gh !m1 & :i* h _! bases ( dovetail =m to enable !m to be secur$ betwe5 a dovetail lip1 on ! lay1 & a dovetail clamp+ plate1 secur$ to ! lay by bolts4 ,fig4 ,,cxxiv4 illu/rates ! me?od ( lift+ ! j\rnals f bel[4 ,! j\rnals1 ( :i* !re are f\r1 are arrang$ to "w 9 upright fix$ guides on ! loom fram+1 d1 e1 f1 g1 & are op]at$ by treadles1 :i* are arrang$ 9 pairs bel[1 ea* j\rnal be+ connect$ ) "o pair ( treadles by two rods at its opposite ends4 ,^! treadles are op]at$ by cams = ea* pair ( treadles & ea* j\rnal4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,cxxv4 ,fig4 ,,cxxv4 repres5ts ! top view ( ! 8fix$ guides0 conta9+ ! j\rnals4 ,?is loom is provid$ ) t5 %uttle-boxes1 7sev5 = ! revolv]1 ?ree upright71 = ea* side1 & built by ! ,furbu% ,ma*9e ,company1 be+ a comb9ation ( _! old] c>pet loom kn[n z ! 8,murkl&10 & ! 8,duckwor? ,c>pet ,loom40 ,illu/ration ,,app5dix4 ,prep>+ & ,/amp+ ( ,jacqu>d ,c>ds4 ,prep>+4 ,! ,jacqu>d c>d consi/s ( a /rong1 durable pa/ebo>d cut to ! exact size ( ! cyl9d]4 ,= cutt+ or prep>+ ! c>ds to ! requir$ size1 a table is us$ ) ! diff]5t sizes ( c>ds indicat$ on its surface4 ,a %>p /eel blade is adju/$ to ! side ( ! table4 ,a heavy knife ( suffici5t l5g?1 & conta9+ a second /eel blade1 is secur$ to a project+ bolt on ! re> end ( ! table1 all[+ en\gh play = ! knife to be easily rais$ & l[]$4 ,! blade ( ! knife works close aga9/ ! blade fa/5$ to ! table2 & :5 press$ d[n bo? blades re/ close toge!r4 ,on ! front side ( ! table is a long groove 9 :i* is a guide1 fa/5$ by a bolt & nut4 ,?is guide c be set to suit any ( ! m>ks on ! table1 ?us regulat+ ! size ( ! c>ds to be cut4 ,two measures 7! l5g? & ! wid?7 are requir$ to be cut = ea* set ( c>ds3 #a/4 ,! %eets ( pa/ebo>d are requir$ to be trimm$ "o way 9 suffici5t numb] = ! l5g? ( ! c>ds4 #b;d4 ,ea* trimm$ %eet is aft]w>ds sep>at$ 9 /rips ( ! requir$ wid?4 ,c>d ,/amp+4 ,! olde/ me?od = /amp+ c>ds1 n[ only occasionally us$1 consi/s ( two p]=at$ /eel plates1 betwe5 :i* ! blank c>ds are plac$1 & ! requir$ holes /amp$ by h& by means ( pun*es4 ,x w easily be se5 t ?is me?od is n up to ! pres5t advanc$ times1 h5ce v>i\s ma*9es h be5 introduc$ = arrang+ ! pun*es4 ,among ^? mo/ g5]ally us$ are3 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,i4--,dobby ,c>d ,pun*+ ,ma*9es4 ,,ii4--,piano ,c>d ,/amp+ ,ma*9es4 ,,iii4--,repeat+ ,ma*9es4 ,i4 ,dobby ,c>d ,pun*+ ,ma*9es4 ,^! ma*9es1 illu/rat$ by ,fig4 #a41 7,w4 ,p4 ,uhl+]1 build]71 are us$ = /amp+ c>ds = ! small] ,jacqu>d ma*9es1 te*nically t]m$ 8,dobbies40 ,!y are ( v compact build1 & op]at$ by belt-p[]4 ,! :ole c>d is pun*$ at "o revolution or /roke4 ,! rack on top ( ! ma*9e holds ! design4 ,! pun*es = peg-holes & lace-holes are immovable1 :ile ! key pun*es act indep5d5tly1 at ! w ( ! op]ator4 ,jacqu>d c>ds = ^! ma*9es are g5]ally compos$ ( ! /ronge/ pa/ebo>d1 & require a v /rongly con/ruct$ ma*9e4 ,,ii4 ,piano ,c>d ,/amp+ ,ma*9es4 ,^! are op]at$ 9 two ways1 by ! belt or foot-p[]4 ,!re are two k9ds ( ea*3 8,fr5* index0 & 8,am]ican index40 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #i4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aj4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aa4 ,figs4 #b to #aa are drawn to "o-half ! actual size ( ! 8,uhl+] ,c>d ,/amp+ ,ma*9e40 ,figs4 #ac1 #af1 #ag1 #ah1 #ai are drawn to "o-qu>t] ! actual size ( ! 8,royle ,c>d ,/amp+ ,ma*9e40 ,figs4 #b & #ac 7,e1 ,f1 ,g1 ,h17 repres5t ! top view ( ! head 7cov] tak5 (f71 ! twelve holes = hold+ ! pun*es = "o r[1 also ! l>ge hole = hold+ ! peg1 ,p4 ,ea* pun* works v]tically1 & is guid$ by a key = /amp+ ! hole4 ,fig4 #ad illu/rates ! pun* 7actual size7 z us$ 9 ! 8,royle0 ma*9e3 a to b #c_/d in*2 b to c #b-g_/h in*es2 #g_/cb in* diamet] ( pun*1 d to c4 ,fig4 #ae illu/rates a correspond+ key3 diamet] ( key #c_/af in*1 d to e2 diamet] ( head1 #c_/h in*1 a to b2 c is ! hole = ins]t+ ! p9 :i* holds ! spr+4 ,! l5g? ( ! keys v>y f #a-c_/d to #b-a_/h in*es1 accord+ to ! position !y occupy 9 ! ma*9e4 ,! pun* & key ( ! ,uhl+] ma*9e are %[n 7"o-half ( actual size7 9 ,figs4 #d & #e4 ,a & ,b1 9 ,figs4 #b & #ac1 repres5t ! pi/on = guid+ ! head 9 its v]tical motion4 ,fig4 #c repres5ts ! front view ( ! head4 ,! numb]s & lett]s indicat+ ! diff]5t p>ts correspond ) ,fig4 #b4 ,! pr9ciple ( con/ruction & action ( ! heads 9 bo? k9ds ( ma*9e are simil>4 ,ea* key is provid$ ) a f9e spiral spr+1 :i*1 aft] e action ( ! key1 returns x to its orig9al position4 ,! key = ! peg-hole is controll$ by ! l>g] spr+1 ,s1 ,d1 9 ,figs4 #b & #ac4 ,! arr[s 9 ^! two draw+s indicate ! direction tak5 by ! keys :5 "u pressure4 ,:5 cutt+ c>ds eight r[s deep1 ! ?umb ( ! "r h& works ! key = ! peg-hole2 ! eight keys 9 ! re> ( ! ma*9e 7:i* are ! ones to be us$7 are work$ by ! f\r f+]s ( ea* h&4 ,:5 cutt+ c>ds twelve r[s deep1 ! eight keys 9 ! re> are op]at$ by ! eight f+]s 9 ! same mann]2 b ! ?umb ( ! "r h& op]ates keys m>k$ #a & #b1 & ! ?umb ( ! left h& op]ates keys m>k$ #aa & #ab4 ,dur+ ! cutt+ op]ation ! f+]s %\ld n be remov$ f ! keys2 !y %\ld always be 9 read9ess to press ! requir$ key into action1 z ?is is ! only way to become exp]t4 ,! eye ( ! c>d /amp] mu/ re/ un9t]rupt$ly on 8 design2 & ! keys are call$ at w by ! f+]s1 )\t ! eye leav+ ! design1 to f9d out :]e a c]ta9 key or f+] is situat$ at ! "t4 ,fig4 #d %[s relative positions ( pun*1 ,s1 & key1 ,e1 :5 ready = /amp+ a hole4 ,fig4 #e %[s ! relative positions ( pun* & key :5 no hole is requir$4 ,o repres5ts ! ,jacqu>d c>d z re/+ 9 ! slot ( ! l[] head4 ,,ii4 9 ,fig4 #c1 m>k$ ,x to ,z1 %[s a full wid? view ( ?is c>d4 ,! space ,d1 9 ,figs4 #d & #e p]mits ! spr+ to be ins]t$ regulat+ ! key4 ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 solid p>ts ( ! upp] head1 7,i41 9 ,fig4 #c74 ,f1 ,g1 ,k1 ,l1 solid p>ts ( ! l[] head1 7,,ii41 9 ,fig4 #c74 ,! c>ds are pass$ into & ?r\gh ! /ation>y "p ( ! head at ,x1 ,z1 & are atta*$ to a 8c>riage0 9 ! re> ( ! pun* head4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ab4 ,two me?ods are employ$ = mov+ ! c>riage3 #a/4 ,by a 8skipp]0 at its re> fa/5$ to ! c>riage1 :i* moves 9 a rack ( p9s secur$ to ! cutt+ table4 ,?is me?od ( con/ruction is us$ by ! ,uhl+] ma*9e4 ,figs4 #f & #g are front & side views ( ?is me*anism4 ,figs4 #h & #i1 ! top view & sectional cut ( ! rack4 #b;d4 ,! rack is fa/5$ to ! c>riage1 & ! skipp] to ! table1 ?us rev]s+ ! fir/ me?od4 ,see ,fig4 #ai1 top view4 ,?is me?od ( con/ruction is employ$ 9 ! ,royle ma*9e4 ,! di/ance ( ! p9s 9 ! racks 9 bo? sy/ems ( con/ruction 7,am]ican & ,fr5*7 corresponds to ! di/ance ( ! r[s 9 ! c>d4 ,! racks are g5]ally con/ruct$ = #fjj1 #ijj1 & #abjj ,jacqu>d ma*9es4 ,( ^! ?ree sizes ! #abjj is ! mo/ advantage\s1 z c>ds c be cut = any small] size ma*9e4 ,! rack ( a #ijj ma*9e 7,fr5* index7 conta9s #hh p9s1 :ile t ( a #abjj ma*9e 7,fr5* index7 conta9s #aad p9s4 ,fig4 #aj illu/rates ! 8cat*0 = hold+ ! c>ds 9 ! ,uhl+] ma*9e4 ,?is is fa/5$ to ! c>riage :5 press$ by ! h& on top 9 ! direction ( arr[1 ,s2 ?is cat* w compress spr+1 ,d1 9 ! direction ( arr[1 ,s1 ?us op5+ ! 8blade10 ,c1 7front view %[n by ,fig4 #aa71 9 ! direction ( arr[1 ,s1 ?us all[+ ! c>d to be ins]t$ & held1 securely fa/5$ to ! c>riage4 ,fig4 #ah illu/rates ! side view ( ! c>riage & its cat* = hold+ ! ,jacqu>d c>d z us$ 9 ! ,royle ma*9e4 ,arr[1 ,s1 indicates ! pressure ( ! op]ator's h& on lev]1 ,b1 :5 ! c>d is ins]t$4 ,?is lev] presses by means ( press]1 ,d1 9 ! direction ( arr[1 ,s1 on ! d\ble-act+ lev]1 ,e1 at c4 ,?is lev] mov+ ar\nd its fulcrum1 e1 w lift cat*1 ,f1 9 ! direction ( arr[1 ,s1 ?us all[+ ! c>d to be ins]t$4 ,spr+1 ,g1 fa/5$ to ma9 "p ( c>riage1 ,a1 by means ( screw1 a1 secures ! c>d to ! cat*4 ,c1 ,c1 are ! c>riage :eels1 ( :i* !re are f\r4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ac4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ad4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ae4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #af4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ag4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ah4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ai4 ,fig4 #ai repres5ts ! top view ( ,fig4 #ah1 & is design$ to %[ ! arrangem5t ( lev]s1 :eels1 & cat*es ( ! complete rack z us$ = a #ijj ma*9e4 ,! lett]s indicat+ ! diff]5t p>ts correspond ) ! ones us$ 9 ,fig4 #ah4 ,fig4 #af %[s top view & gr\nd plan1 & ,fig4 #ag ! front elevation ( ! 8c>d-guide10 z con/ruct$ on ! ,royle ma*9e4 ,x is univ]sal & self-adju/+ to any wid? ( c>ds f #c_/d to #c-a_/b in*es2 bo? guide-plates1 ,c & ,d1 are caus$ to move equally t[>d or away f ! peg-pun*1 ?us accurately c5t]+ ! peg-hole 9 all c>ds4 ,lett]s ,a1 ,b1 ,p1 & numb]s #a to #ab1 correspond to ^? us$ 9 ,fig4 #ac4 ,e1 ,f1 ,h1 ,k1 are ! ?ree lev]s mov+ ar\nd p91 ,g1 7! latt] 9 ev5 l9e ) ! c5tre ( ! peg-hole1 ,p74 ,^! lev]s are held by screw1 ,l1 9 any requir$ position4 ,spr+1 ,s1 holds lev]1 ,f1 ,h1 aga9/ p91 ,t1 :i* 9 turn is fa/5$ to ! same plate z screw1 ,l4 ,fig4 #af indicates ! c>d-guide set = a #ab-r[ c>d4 ,let u suppose x necess>y to cut an #h-r[ c>d4 ,loos5 screw1 ,l1 & spr+1 ,s1 w in/antly contract until ea* side ( ! guide has mov$ ! requir$ di/ance 7two holes & two spaces betwe5 holes7 t[>ds ! c5tre4 ,mu* valuable "t is sav$ by ! use ( ?is guide1 z x in/antly adju/s itself to any wid? ( c>d1 & at ! same "t c5tralizes ea* c>d pass$ ?r\gh ! ma*9e4 ,9 factories :]e brok5 c>ds require to be con/antly r5ew$1 ! value ( ?is guide is especially noticeable1 !re be+ no mat]ial int]ruption ( ! regul> "w ( ! op]ator1 :o c replace ! damag$ c>d at ! mom5t want$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bj4 ,lett]s indicat+ ! diff]5t p>ts 9 ,fig4 #ag1 correspond to ^? us$ 9 ,fig4 #af4 ,z m5tion$ be=e1 ! pi/ons1 ,a & ,b1 ( ! cutt+ head are connect$ bel[ ! table to ! cutt+ lev]s1 & by a simple comb9ation ( lev]s1 ! cutt+ p$al is br\ght 9 direct relation to ! cutt+ lev]2 all ( :i* are illu/rat$ 9 ! p]spective view ( ! ,royle ma*9e 9 ,fig4 #bj1 & ! ,uhl+] ma*9e 9 ,fig4 #ab4 ,! work+ ( ! cutt+ p$al is v simple4 ,press+ ! p$al1 situat$ at ! "r1 causes ! pun* head to desc5d1 & ! pun* p5etrates ! c>d4 ,transf]r+ ! pressure f ! "r to ! left p$al raises ! pun*-head to its =m] position1 7pun*es above c>d71 ready = a repetition ( ^! movem5ts4 ,! 8skip0 arrangem5t all[s ! c>riage to advance ! di/ance f "o p9 to ! o!r 9 ! c>d-rack1 ?us plac+ ! c>d 9 prop] position "u ! pun*es4 ,at ! prop] height above ! pun*-head is ! read+-bo>d1 on :i* ! guide-rules are mov$ across ! design by screws1 :i* are connect$ by ge>+ & op]at$ by means ( ! h&-:eel or crank %[n on ! l[] side ( ! bo>d4 ,z draw+-p9s or ?umb-tacks are g5]ally us$ z fa/5+s = ! design1 ! read+-bo>d is made ( s(t wood1 & its trimm+s are made ( h>d wood4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ba4 ,fig4 #ba illu/rates ! ,uhl+] ,c>d ,/amp+ ,ma*9e op]at$ by belt-p[]4 ,be+ ! same 9 pr9ciple z ! foot-p[] ma*9e1 x is only necess>y to /ate t in/ead ( work+ ! ma*9e by means ( ! cutt+ p$als1 x is done automatically by simply t\*+ any ( ! keys t op]ate ! pun*es2 ?us ! ma*9e makes "o /roke & pun*es ! requir$ holes4 ,! ,/amp+ ( ,c>ds4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bb4 ,be=e comm5c+ ?is "w a cle> conception ( ! tie-up & leas+ ( ! h$dles is requir$4 ,! holes 9 ! c>ds = ! ne$les to p5etrate1 or ! spots 9 c>ds :]e no hole is to be /amp$1 mu/ be arrang$ 9 an un9t]rupt$ *a9 f "o r[ to ! o!r1 until all ! r[s are tak5 up4 ,z previ\sly m5tion$1 ! me?od obs]v$ 9 ty+-up ! loom is ! guide = /amp+ ! c>ds4 ,! numb] ( ends requir$ 9 a c]ta9 design may repeat only once 9 ! numb] ( hooks & ne$les employ$ 9 ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e2 or !y may repeat two1 ?ree1 or m times4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bc4 ,fig4 #bc illu/rates a design ^u #dj w>p-?reads4 ,fig4 #bb %[s ! correspond+ c>d1 7,fr5* index71 "o-f\r? ( its actual size1 = ! fir/ pick4 ,9 a #bjj ma*9e ?is design w repeat itself five times4 ,! lace-holes & ! peg-holes are blank4 ,! res]ve r[ 7#bf?7 is %ad$1 & ! design z cut 9 c>d is indicat$ by black dots4 ,?is cut also %[s ! direction ( read+ ea* r[ to correspond ) ! numb]+ = ! pun*-heads1 9 ,figs4 #b1 #c1 #ac1 & c>d-guide 9 ,fig4 #af4 ,! numb]s #a to #dj1 #da to #hj1 #ha to #abj1 #aba to #afj1 #afa to #bjj1 indicate ! direction ( /amp+ ! design1 z well z ! five repeats to =m ! complete c>d4 ,9 ?is connection x w be ( great advantage to exam9e ,fig4 ,,xxix41 p4 #bh1 "u ! head ( ! ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e & its ,tie-ups4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bd4 ,fig4 #bd illu/rates a ,jacqu>d c>d 7,am]ican index7 /amp$ = +ra9 c>pets1 "o-half ( actual size4 ,?is c>d illu/rates ! /amp+ = two textures1 #a to #bjh be+ = 8extra f9e40 ,! #bf r[s ne$$ are %[n full black1 & m>k$ to correspond4 ,! peg-holes & lace-holes are left blank4 ,9 ! o!r texture1 or :at is t]m$ 8extra sup]0 +ra9 c>pet1 ! additional r[s are repres5t$ by ! %ad$ holes at ! ends ( ! c>ds4 ,arr[1 ,s1 indicates ! direction = comm5c+ to read (f ea* r[4 ,,iii4 ,repeat+ ,jacqu>d ,patt]n ,c>ds by ! ,positive ,action ,repeat]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #be4 ,if sev]al sets ( c>ds ( "o design are requir$ = />t+ a correspond+ numb] ( looms1 & ! fir/ set has be5 produc$ by ! 8piano ma*9e0 exact duplicates c easily be obta9$ at small co/ to ! manufactur] by ! 8,repeat+ ,ma*9e40 ,?is ma*9e is built by ,messrs4 ,john ,royle ,sons1 ,pat]son1 ,n4 ,j41 & is illu/rat$ by ,fig4 #be 9 a p]spective view4 ,fig4 #bf1 p4 #id1 repres5ts ! front elevation ( ! ?roat-piece ?r\gh :i* ! c>ds t are to be cut pass1 ! c>riage on :i* x is support$1 & ! me*anism employ$ = imp>t+ a ris+ & fall+ motion to ! c>riage4 ,fig4 #bg1 p4 #ie1 is a v]tical longitud9al section ( ! upp] portion ( ! ma*9e4 ,fig4 #bh1 p4 #ie1 gives a p]spective view 9 detail ( portions ( a select+-ne$le & key-wire & a lev] connect+ !m4 ,fig4 #bi1 p4 #ie1 gives a view 9 detail ( ! me*anism employ$ to turn ! patt]n cyl9d]4 ,! c>ds to be duplicat$ 7,n1 ,n1 ,fig4 #bf1 p4 #id17 are arrang$ ^u ! c>d race-arms 7,m1 ,m1 ,fig4 #bf17 9 ! same mann] z ^u a loom4 ,! uncut or blank c>ds1 hav+ be5 previ\sly lac$ toge!r1 7,e1 ,e1 ,fig4 #bf71 are pil$ 9 ! re> at ! base ( ! column1 & !nce pass$ =w>d ?r\gh ! ma*9e1 & deliv]$ f9i%$ 9 front4 ,! p]=at+ ( ! c>ds is p]=m$ by a v]tically reciprocat+ die1 7,d1 ,fig4 #bf71 & a set ( pun*es 7,c1 ,fig4 #bf17 c>ri$ 9 a fix$ pun*-head1 & capable ( be+ pu%$ upw>d :5 su* movem5t is n prev5t$4 ,! c>ds commonly us$ are ( a size to receive #fjj holes1 & h5ce t numb] ( pun*es are requir$4 ,! c>ds 7,e7 to be cut are drawn ov] a 8reel0 or 8idl]0 7,f1 ,fig4 #bf17 at ! back ( ! ma*9e1 & !nce pass ?r\gh op5+s 9 ! base frame to ! front ( ! ma*9e1 & ov] a squ>e cyl9d] hav+ a /ep-by-/ep rot>y motion4 ,by ea* qu>t] turn ( ?is cyl9d]1 ! *a9 ( c>ds is drawn =w>d suffici5tly to br+ a new c>d 9 ! die4 ,by ! ris+ movem5t ( ! die 7c>riage71 :i* takes place z soon z ! int]mitt5t fe$ ( ! c>ds has ceas$1 ! c>d 9 ! ?roat ( ! ma*9e is c>ri$ up aga9/ ! l[] ends ( ! pun*es1 & is cut or p]=at$ by all su* pun*es z h _! upw>d movem5t prev5t$ by ! keys2 :ile su* pun*es z are n arre/$ by ! keys are c>ri$ upw>d1 & d n puncture ! c>d4 ,! pieces ( c>d cut (f fall ?r\gh a ?roat or op5+ 9 ! c>riage 7,f1 ,fig4 #bg17 into ! holl[ base frame1 7,a1 ,fig4 #bg71 & c be tak5 out at ! door1 7,a1 ,fig4 #bf74 ,x w !re=e be app>5t t ! v>iations 9 ! c>ds are produc$ simply by hold+ d[n diff]5t pun*es 9 successive pun*+ op]ations4 ,?is is regulat$ by ! orig9al set ( c>ds1 7,n1 ,fig4 #bf71 :i* are pass$ ov] ! patt]n cyl9d] 7,o1 ,fig4 #bf74 ,! latt] has also a /ep-by-/ep rot>y motion simil> to ! cyl9d] fir/ describ$4 ,its f\r faces are cov]$ ) holes ! same di/ances ap>t z ! p]=ations 9 ! patt]n c>ds4 ,?is patt]n cyl9d] is m\nt$ 9 be>+s 9 a c>riage on ! top ( ! ma*9e1 & is reciprocat$ back & =? betwe5 ! successive rot>y movem5ts ( ! fe$ & patt]n cyl9d]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bf4 ,9 ! upp] "p ( ! ma*9e are arrang$ :at are t]m$ select+ ne$les1 7,c1 ,fig4 #bg71 :i* consi/ ( wires arrang$ 9 horizontal r[s1 ) _! ends opposite to ! patt]n cyl9d]1 & :i* are ! same di/ance ap>t z ! holes 9 ! cyl9d]1 s t if ! cyl9d] 7 mov$ up by ! c>riage aga9/ ! ends ( ! ne$les1 ! latt] w\ld ent] ! holes 9 ! cyl9d]1 & w\ld n be mov$ longitud9ally4 ,!re are ! same numb] ( select+ ne$les z pun*es 9 ! ma*9e--six hundr$4 ,:51 h[ev]1 a p]=at$ patt]n c>d is on ! cyl9d]1 & x is mov$ aga9/ ! ends ( ! select+ ne$les1 su* ne$les z are opposite ! p]=ations ( ! c>ds w ent] !m1 & w n be mov$1 :ile su* ne$les z are opposite ! blank spaces ( ! c>ds w be mov$ longitud9ally4 ,see ,fig4 #bg = illu/ration4 ,at ! rev]se movem5t ( ! c>riage1 an 8ev5]10 :i* is secur$ to x at ! end opposite ! patt]n cyl9d]1 /rikes aga9/ ! ends ( all ! ne$les s mov$ & pu%es !m back to _! orig9al position4 ,above ea* ( ! pun*es be=e describ$ is a horizontal slid+ key 7,d1 ,fig4 #bg17 atta*$ to a horizontal key-wire 7,d1 ,fig4 #bg71 & ! #fjj key-wires are arrang$ 9 horizontal r[s bel[ ! select+ ne$les1 & are ea* connect$ by a lev] 7,b1 ,fig4 #bg17 ) ! correspond+ select+ ne$le4 ,consequ5tly1 a longitud9al motion ( any select+ ne$le w move ! key-wire ) :i* x is connect$ 9 a rev]se direction4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bg4 ,fig4 #bh gives a cle> demon/ration ( ! connection ( a select+ ne$le1 c1 to ! key-wire1 f by means ( ! lev]1 e1 movable ar\nd ! fix$ p91 d4 ,ea* key 7,d1 ,fig4 #bg17 consi/s ( a cyl9drical plug ( metal1 :i*1 project+ ov] a pun*1 =ms an abutm5t to keep t pun* f ris+1 b if )drawn1 all[s ! pun* to rise )\t resi/ance4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bh4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bi4 ,a /ep arrangem5t ( ! pun*es & keys is adopt$2 t is1 ! upp] ends ( ! out] r[s ( pun*es are highe/ & ! pun*es 9 ! sev]al r[s decrease 9 height till ! inn] r[ is rea*$1 :]e ! pun*es are ! l[e/4 ,h5ce1 ! keys ( ! upp] r[s1 :i* correspond to ! out] r[s ( pun*es1 are c>ri$ ov] ! inn] r[s ( pun*es & t]m9ate ov] ! pun*es 9 ! out] r[s4 ,normally1 all ! keys are above ! pun*es1 & all w\ld pun* :5 ! die asc5ds1 b :5 a patt]n c>d is c>ri$ by ! patt]n cyl9d] aga9/ ! ends ( ! select+ ne$les1 c]ta9 ne$les are mov$ & produce a rev]se movem5t ( ! correspond+ key-wires1 & draws c]ta9 keys out ( rea* ( _! pun*es2 no resi/ance be+ (f]$ to ! upw>d movem5t ( su* pun*es1 !y d n p]=ate ! c>ds4 ,! c>riage on :i* ! patt]n cyl9d] is c>ri$ be+ m\nt$ directly on ! top ( ! ma*9e1 c be readily lift$ (f to af=d access to ! p>ts bel[1 & x is provid$ ) a movable hood1 :i* may be lift$ to inspect ! select+ ne$les4 ,! keys & key-wires are arrang$ f>!r ap>t v]tically ?an ! select+ ne$les1 ?us enabl+ l>g] keys & heavi] & /rong] key be>+s to be us$1 & avoid+ any liability ( ! pun*es /rik+ ! keys 9 ! ti] next above :5 ^? ( _! own ti] are )drawn4 ,in/ead ( apply+ a sep>ate spr+ to ea* pun* to move x d[nw>d or return x z ! die rec$es1 a positively op]at$ return+ plate is us$1 :i* moves d[n z ! die rec$es & acts on coll>s on ! pun*es1 see d1 ,fig4 #bg1 & =ces all ! pun*es d[n4 ,?is is v important1 = if any ( ! pun*es %\ld fail to desc5d1 ! movem5t ( _! keys w\ld be prev5t$1 & !reby ! ma*9e w\ld fail to prop]ly repeat4 ,! be>+s ( ! patt]n cyl9d] are s con/ruct$ t ! cyl9d] c be in/antly *ang$ to all[ ei!r a #djj or a #fjj-;hole cyl9d] to be us$1 s t ! be>+s c be adju/$ to adapt !m = ei!r size cyl9d]4 ,! be>+s ( ! fe$ cyl9d]1 :]eby ! *a9 ( c>ds to be cut is mov$1 are con/ruct$ & support$ s z to enable !m to be readily adju/$ to suit slight v>iations 9 ! tightness ) :i* ! c>ds are lac$1 or 9 a great] degree to suit l>ge or small c>ds1 & ! me*anism :]eby ! cyl9d] is op]at$ is capable ( ready adju/m5t = ! same purpose4 ,x is well kn[n t ! pun*+ ( a great numb] ( holes simultane\sly1 ev5 9 c>dbo>d1 requires great p[]1 & entails enorm\s %ock & great we> on ! ma*9e2 to obviate ?is difficulty1 ! pun*es are slightly v>i$ 9 l5g? relative to _! keys1 s t !y w n all act on ! c>ds at exactly ! same in/ant1 & ! /ra9 on ! ma*9e & p[] requir$ are !reby greatly r$uc$4 ,a ,lace-,hole ,press ,is indisp5sable to ! ma*9e4 ,?is is a sep>ate little ma*9e1 design$ to set ^u a b5* or table1 & is us$ especially = cutt+ ! peg & lace-holes4 ,x may be op]at$ v readily by h&1 b if desir$1 is easily adapt$ to run by p[]4 ,! fe$+ is done by "o motion ( ! h&1 & once h&l+ ( ! c>d2 ! c>ds leave ! press by gravitation1 & arrange !mselves 9 piles4 ,! press is arrang$ to cut c>ds = #djj or #fjj ma*9es4 ,! ,lac+ ( ,c>ds4 ,two me?ods are obs]v$ = lac+ ,jacqu>d c>ds3 ,a1 h&-lac+ on a common frame2 ,b1 lac+ by p[]4 ,a4 ,lac+ ( ,jacqu>d ,c>ds by ,h&4 ,= ?is purpose ! c>ds are put on a common frame conta9+ on its surface pegs ( a correspond+ size to ^? us$ on ! cyl9d]4 ,! pegs on ! frame are made ( h>d wood1 & ! pegs ( ! cyl9d] ( brass4 ,^! pegs on ! frame are locat$ at exact di/ances ap>t1 & ! frames are built to hold f #cj to #ej c>ds1 sup]ficially arrang$4 ,figs4 #cj & #ca illu/rate ! frame "u ,s1 %[+ at a ?ree c>ds arrang$ = a fabric1 ) a twill effect f left to "r2 & at b ! same c>ds arrang$ = a twill 9 ! opposite direction1 f "r to left4 ,^! frames are arrang$ to slide into ea*1 s z to adapt !m to ! di/ances ( ! peg-holes 9 ! c>ds4 ,to give a cle> und]/&+ z to ! di/ance ( ^! pegs f ea* o!r a few measures mo/ g5]ally us$ = lac+ frames are giv54 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cj4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ca4 #a4 ,= a #bjj ,ma*9e 7,fr5* ,index47 ,! c5tre ( ! pegs are #b-i_/af ap>t4 ,wid? ( c>ds #b-e_/af1 all[+ #a_/d = di/ance betwe5 ! c>ds4 ,diamet] ( ! pegs at ! bottom1 #c_/h4 ,di/ance ( ! c5tre ( "o peg to ! c5tre ( ! correspond+ "o across ! frame1 #g-a_/b4 ,l5g? ( c>d1 #i-e_/h4 #b4 ,= a #fjj ,ma*9e 7,fr5* ,index74 ,! c5tre ( ! pegs are #c-e_/h ap>t4 ,wid? ( c>ds1 #c-c_/h1 all[+ #a_/d = di/ance betwe5 c>ds4 ,diamet] ( ! pegs at ! bottom1 #c_/h4 ,di/ance ( ! c5tre ( "o peg to ! c5tre ( ! correspond+ "o across ! frame1 #ad-e_/h4 ,l5g? ( c>d1 #af-g_/h4 #c4 ,= an ,+ra9 ,c>pet ,ma*9e 7,am]ican ,index74 ,! c5tre ( ! pegs are #c f ea* o!r4 ,wid? ( c>ds #b-c_/d1 all[+ #a_/d = ! di/ance betwe5 ! c>ds4 ,diamet] ( ! pegs at ! bottom1 #c_/h4 ,di/ance ( ! c5tre ( "o peg to ! c5tre ( ! correspond+ "o across ! frame1 #aa-c_/h4 ,l5g? ( c>d1 #ac-a_/d4 ,b4 ,lac+ ( ,jacqu>d ,c>ds by ,ma*9e4 ,diff]5t /yles ( ma*9es are con/ruct$ = do+ ?is "w1 among :i* we f9d ma*9es requir+ two ne$les = ea* s]ies ( holes 9 ! ,jacqu>d c>ds1 & ma*9es us+ "o %uttle 9 connection ) ea* ne$le4 ,! ,jacqu>d c>ds mo/ly ne$$ are = ma*9es conta9+ #djj1 #fjj1 etc41 hooks & ne$les4 ,! ,jacqu>d c>ds = ^! sizes h ?ree s]ies ( lace-holes1 & ! numb] ( ne$les1 or ne$les & %uttles1 us$ 9 ! ma*9e1 is proportionally increas$4 ,! ,me?od ( us+ ,two ,ne$les = ,lac+ ea* ,s]ies ( ,holes ,is ! "o mo/ ext5sively employ$1 h5ce we w take ?is ma*9e 7,w4 ,p4 ,uhl+]1 ,phila41 build]17 = ! subject4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cb4 ,fig4 #cb repres5ts ! p]spective view ( a lac+ ma*9e = #fjj ,jacqu>d c>ds4 ,! table is locat$ at a conv5i5t height1 & is #cc-a_/b by #cf-a_/b in*es4 ,two grooves1 ea* #a-a_/af in*es by #bf-a_/b in*es1 are locat$ five in*es f front & re> respectively1 & #i-a_/h in*es f ea* side4 ,a ?ird groove ( ! same size is situat$ 9 ! c5tre1 #f-a_/cb in*es f ! o!rs4 ,an endless *a9 runs 9 ea* groove1 consi/+ ( #bd l9ks1 correspond+ 9 l5g? to ! wid? ( ! c>d to be lac$4 ,ea* l9k ( ! two outside *a9s has a peg ( a size correspond+ to ! "o us$ on ! cyl9d] 9 ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cc4 ,fig4 #cc illu/rates ! side view ( a l9k1 & ! me?od ( jo9t+3 a1 ! peg2 c1 ! jo9t ( l9k2 ! l5g? ( ea* l9k be+ #c-a_/b in*es1 & ! height #a_/c in* at ! jo9t2 ! diamet] ( ! pegs at ! bottom1 #c_/h in*2 ! height ( ea* peg1 #a_/b in*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,fig4 #cd %[s ! top view ( ,fig4 #cc1 illu/rat+ two complete l9ks4 ,! body ( ea* l9k is #b-c_/h in*es long2 ! head1 #e_/h in* long2 ! slot1 #a in* long4 a repres5ts ! peg2 e ! empty spaces betwe5 ea* pair ( l9ks1 to receive ! tee? 7#a_/b in* high7 ( :eel 7#h in*es diamet]1 ,fig4 #cf74 ,?is :eel holds & guides ! endless *a92 also imp>ts ! requir$ movem5t to ! c>ds4 ,x is regulat$ by a cam arrangem5t4 ,see ,fig4 #ce4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ce4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cf4 ,two ne$les are requir$ = ea* ( ! ?ree s]ies ( lace-holes1 or six ne$les 9 all4 ,! process ( lac+ ea* s]ies is ! same2 z ! ?ree horizontal work+ ne$les are connect$ to "o rod2 ?us1 by work+ ?is rod1 !y are op]at$ correspond+ly4 ,! ?ree v]tical work+ ne$les are arrang$ 9 ! same mann]1 & also ! ?ree loop-guides4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cg4 ,fig4 #cg %[s a top view ( "o ( ! loop-guides1 d1 a1 c4 ,! dott$ l9es ne> a repres5t ! position ( ! correspond+ 8press]0 = ! c>ds dur+ ! lac+ process4 ,l5g? ( /rip c1 #e in*es2 l5g? ( /rip d1 #ac in*es2 wid? ( ea* /rip1 #c_/d in*2 wid? ( empty space1 betwe5 c & d1 #c_/d in*4 b indicates ! top view ( ! v]tical work+ ne$le4 ,arr[1 ,s1 direction ! c>ds run :ile be+ lac$4 ,z previ\sly m5tion$1 two ne$les are requir$ = ea* s]ies ( lace-holes4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ch4 ,fig4 #ch %[s ! top view ( ! ne$le1 :i* works 9 a horizontal direction4 ,fig4 #ci side view ( ! same4 ,fig4 #ch is %[n ?read$1 :]eas ,fig4 #ci is n ?read$1 s z to give a cle> view ( ! eye4 ,?is ne$le is fa/5$ to its hold] by means ( screw1 d2 ! blade ( ! ne$le ext5ds #c-a_/b in*es2 wid? ( ne$le at bottom1 #c_/af in*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ci4 ,two diff]5t sets ( lac+ tw9es are us$1 viz43 #a/4 ,set ( f9e ?read runn+ f ?ree spools %[n 9 a v]tical position on ! side ( ! ma*9e1 us$ = ?read+ ! ne$les runn+ 9 a horizontal direction4 ,9 our explanation we d5ote ?is tw9e ) 8a40 7#g-ply1 ,no4 #ad s(t laid mule y>n47 #b;d4 ,! set ( heavy tw9e runn+ f spools arrang$ horizontally ne> ! bottom 9 re> ( ma*9e is ?read$ to ! v]tical ne$les4 ,?is tw9e is indicat$ by 8b0 9 our explanations4 7,no4 #bd braid b&+47 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dj4 ,9 ,fig4 #ch1 arr[1 e1 illu/rates ! tw9e1 8a10 z com+ (f ! spools4 ,on ! bottom ( ! 8hold]0 is an ext5sion :i* is sep>ately illu/rat$ 9 its front view by ,fig4 #dj4 ,?is ext5sion conta9s a p9 m>k$ k1 :i* guides ! tw9e into ! hole1 l2 7e & arr[ 9 ,fig4 #ch correspond ) e & arr[ 9 ,fig4 #dj74 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #da4 ,! position ( ?is tw9e 9 work+ is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ch4 ,c1 ! cross+ ( ! two tw9es prep>atory to =m+ ! loop1 is illu/rat$4 ,! me*anical con/ruction is su* t ne$le1 a1 is )drawn f loop at ! same "t ne$le1 b1 comm5ces to rise1 plac+ ! tw9es 9 position %[n 9 ,fig4 #da4 ,ne$le1 b1 w 9 turn pull d[n z soon z ne$le1 a1 is ready = mov+ =w>d4 ,by mov+ ne$le1 b1 d[n1 its tw9e w =m a loop1 see ,fig4 #db1 held 9 its position by ! 8loop-guide10 ,fig4 #cg4 ,?r\gh ?is loop1 ne$le1 a1 is aga9 ins]t$4 ,ne$le1 b1 w leave ! c>d bel[ z soon z ne$le1 a1 is 9 its loop4 ,at ?is juncture ! c>ds w be mov$ by means ( ! cat* & *a9 ( l9ks "o hole or "o space betwe5 c>ds1 :i*ev] may be requir$4 ,aft] ?is is done1 ne$le1 b1 w rise 9 its new place1 & at ! same "t ne$le1 a1 comm5ces its backw>d j\rney ?r\gh ! loop %[n & expla9$ 9 ,figs4 #ch & #da at ! beg9n+2 ?us ready = a repetition ( ! two movem5ts4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #db4 ,! =ego+ explanations w give ! pr9ciple ( ?is c>d-lac+ ma*9e z foll[s3 8,"o ne$le holds ! o!r's tw9e until ! o!r ne$le has mov$ "o po9t ahead40 ,lac+ ,ma*9e work+ ) ,"o ,ne$le & ,"o ,%uttle = ea* ,s]ies ( ,holes4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dc4 ,fig4 #dc illu/rates ! side elevation4 ,fig4 #dd illu/rates ! front elevation4 ,! con/ruction ( ?is ma*9e & its work+ are z foll[s3 ,ov] ! prisms1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d1 ( ! same size & %ape z a cyl9d] ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 run ?ree endless *a9s4 ,surr\nd$ by ?is endless *a9 is ! %uttle-box1 ,e1 ) ?ree %uttles1 "o ( :i* is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #de4 ,on ea* ( ^! %uttles a too!d rod1 ,k1 is fa/5$1 ! tee? ( :i* "w 9 ! circles1 ,h1 ,h1 z soon z a %uttle is put 9 its lay1 ,j4 ,?is too!d rod1 :i* runs und]nea? ! circles1 ,h1 is us$ to move ! %uttles to & fro4 ,l indicates ! pulleys = driv+ ! ma*9e4 ,m & ,o1 ,o1 ! ge>-:eels2 ,q1 ! lev]1 & ,p1 its guide1 connect$ z %[n4 ,! b5t ne$les1 ,z1 "w 9 connection ) ! %uttles1 ,e4 ,^! ne$les are tubes ?r\gh :i* ! tw9e = lac+ f spools1 ,a1 are pass$4 ,^! tubes are adju/$ to rod1 ,s1 :i* sw+s ar\nd p91 ,t1 & gets its motion f rod1 ,u1 ,v1 ,w4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dd4 ,! ,jacqu>d c>ds are plac$ on ! ma*9e at ,b1 & move 9 rotation "u ne$le1 ,z4 ,! movem5t ( ! c>ds mu/ be s regulat$ t1 not)/&+ ! want ( uni=mity 9 ! arrangem5t ( ! holes1 ea* hole 9 turn mu/ come directly "u ! lac+ ne$les4 ,! lac+ ( ! c>ds is produc$ z foll[s3 ,aft] ! c>ds h mov$ "o hole1 ! ne$les1 ,z1 l[] to ,p1 ,fig4 #dc1 mak+ ! %$4 ,! %uttles move ) _! po9ts "u ! ?read ?us l[]$ by ! ne$le1 & pass cle> ?r\gh ! loop4 ,aft] ! ne$les rise1 !y w 9 turn tight5 ! loop1 ! %uttles return to _! orig9al position1 & ! "w repeats4 ,?is me?od ( lac+ ,jacqu>d c>ds has ! disadvantage ( compell+ ! ma*9e to be /opp$ (t5] ?an if us+ ! two-ne$le sy/em 7,fig4 #cb71 z ! %uttles w only hold a small quantity ( lac+ tw9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #de4 ,,practical ,,h9ts ,,to ,,le>n]s ,,( ,,jacqu>d ,,design+4 ,design]s = ,jacqu>d "w1 9 addition to be+ good draughtsm51 mu/ be ?or\ghly acqua9t$ ) ! ?ree sy/ems ( weaves3 pla91 twills & sat9s1 & _! sub-divisions2 also ) ! /ructure ( d\ble clo?1 ?ree-ply clo?1 f\r-ply clo?1 etc4 ,he mu/ "k ! influ5ce ( ! texture ^u ! weaves & ! fabric2 ! arrangem5t ( ! ?reads 9 ! d5ts ( ! re$2 ! diff]5t sy/ems ( ty+-up ! ,jacqu>d h>ness2 & ! /amp+ ( ! ,jacqu>d c>ds = ! v>i\s k9ds ( textile fabrics4 ,squ>$ ,design+ ,pap] = ! ,diff]5t ,textile ,fabrics ,execut$ on ! ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e4 ,! classify+ ( ! ,o design+ pap] is done by enclos+ a numb] ( small rectangles1 horizontal & v]tical1 )9 a c]ta9 di/ance by a heavy l9e4 ,su* enclosures are kn[n 9 practice z 8squ>es40 ,! spaces betwe5 ! v]tical l9es indicate ! w>p-?reads1 & ^? betwe5 ! horizontal l9es ! fill+ ?reads4 ,z a rule ! w>p dim5sion is indicat$ fir/2 & a design pap] hav+ five rectangles v]tical ) t5 horizontal1 is v>i\sly read & indicat$ z #e by #aj1 #e #aj1 or #e_/aj4 ,figs4 #df to #fh repres5t "s ( ! /yles ( ,o design+ pap] mo/ frequ5tly us$4 ,! size ( ! squ>e may v>y 9 ea* k9d ( pap]1 & mu/ be select$ accord+ to ! fabric to be sket*$4 ,= example3 ,!re are ?ree /yles ( #h #h ,o design+ pap] 9 g5]al use3 ,"o =m+ #a_/b in* heavy squ>es1 7,fig4 #dh71 "o =m+ #c_/d in* heavy squ>es1 7,fig4 #fd71 & ! o!r =m+ #a in* heavy squ>es4 ,^! sizes may /ill be v>i$4 ,! pr9ciple ( ^! ?ree k9ds ( ,o design+ pap] is id5tical1 ! size pref]r$ be+ left to ! pleasure ( ! design]4 ,if a design is to be made = a great numb] ( ne$les1 say #fjj1 #ijj1 #abjj1 etc41 x w be be/ to use ! smalle/ size2 :]eas 9 a design = only #ajj to #bjj ne$les ! l>g] sizes may be employ$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig #df4 #hf ,illu/ration3 ,fig #dg4 #hg ,illu/ration3 ,fig #dh4 #hh ,illu/ration3 ,fig #di4 #hi ,illu/ration3 ,fig #ej4 #haj ,illu/ration3 ,fig #ea4 #hab ,illu/ration3 ,fig #eb4 #dh ,illu/ration3 ,fig #ec4 #dab ,illu/ration3 ,fig #ed4 #dbj ,illu/ration3 ,fig #ee4 #dbd ,illu/ration3 ,fig #ef4 #eh ,illu/ration3 ,fig #eg4 #faj ,illu/ration3 ,fig #eh4 #fab ,illu/ration3 ,fig #ei4 #iaj ,illu/ration3 ,fig #fj4 #ajaj ,illu/ration3 ,fig #fa4 #ajab ,illu/ration3 ,fig #fb4 #abab ,illu/ration3 ,fig #fc4 #bdab ,illu/ration3 ,fig #fd4 #hh ,illu/ration3 ,fig #fe4 #ajad ,illu/ration3 ,fig #ff4 #hae ,illu/ration3 ,fig #fg4 #haf ,illu/ration3 ,fig #fh4 #eaf ,practical ,use ( ! ,heavy ,squ>e 9 ,design+ ,pap]4 ,! heavy squ>e s]ves z a unit ( measurem5t1 z well z a means ( calculation1 & %[s readily & exactly ! size ( ! design4 ,! eye becomes accu/om$ to grasp+ ! mean+ ( ?is l>ge squ>e1 & compreh5ds at a glance ! situation4 ,= in/ance3 ,on #h #h pap]1 #be squ>es means #h #be1 or #bjj rectangles ea* way4 #aj #aj pap]1 #aj #be1 or #bej rectangles ea* way4 #aj by #ab pap]1 #aj #be1 or #bej rectangles "o way1 & #ab #be1 #cjj rectangles ! o!r way4 ,^! rectangles 9 actual "w repres5t ?reads or ends1 ?us3 #bjj ends on #h #h pap] require #be squ>es4 #cjj #aj #aj #cj #dej #aj #ab #de squ>es "o way1 & #dej #ab1 or #cg squ>es #f l9es ! o!r way4 ,! squ>es w also assi/ 9 putt+ ! weave 9 a design4 ,= example3 ,suppose a design = a damask table-cov] is requir$1 hav+ = weaves ! #h-leaf sat94 ,by us+ ! #h by #h pap] ! 8ris]s0 or 8s9k]s0 ( ! #h-leaf sat9 are f\nd 9 ! same place 9 ea* squ>e1 ?us any error 9 =m+ ! weave is at once detect$4 ,sometimes m ?an "o squ>e is requir$ = asc]ta9+ ?is fact2 suppose 9 ! prec$+ example ! ,o pap] to be #aj by #aj1 !n ! numb] ( ?reads repres5t$ by f\r successive squ>es #d times #aj1 or #dj1 be+ five repeats ( ! #h-leaf sat91 z #e times #h #dj4 ,selection ( ,design+ ,pap] = ,s+le ,clo?4 ,= s+le clo? ! "* ( ! design+ pap] is asc]ta9$ by ! numb] ( w>p & fill+ ?reads requir$ p] in* 9 ! f9i%$ fabric4 ,= example3 ,a damask fabric ) a texture1 :5 f9i%$1 ( #hj_/abj 7#hj ends w>p & #abj picks fill+ p] in*7 w require a design+ pap] ( correspond+ proportion1 or z #hj is to #abj1 #h #ab4 ,9 /ripes1 *ecks1 etc41 ! texture 9 "p ( ! fabric is *ang$2 su* *anges require sep>ate designs4 ,if ! diff]5ce is only slight1 "o k9d ( pap] is us$4 ,select ! pap] d]iv$ ?r\gh ! proportion ( ! two z requir$4 ,= example3 ,a dressgoods fabric =m+ two di/9ct effects 9 "o repeat ( #djj w>p-?reads 7#bjj successive ends requir$ = ea* effect74 ,! fir/ effect made on a texture #fj_/hj4 second #hj_/hj4 ,two di/9ct designs 7"o = ea* effect7 are requir$3 ,= ! fir/ effect use a pap] proportion$ z #fj to #hj1 or #f #h4 second #hj to #hj1 or #h #h4 ,if only "o k9d ( ,o design+ pap] be us$ = bo? effects1 f9d ! av]age ( ! w>p1 ?us3 #f #h #ad1 & #ad #b #g1 %[+ t pap] #g #h is ! sub/itute4 ,if us+ a design+ pap] "u simil> circum/ances ! sket* mu/ be squ>$ to correspond4 ,selection ( ,design+ ,pap] ,= ,d\ble ,clo?4 ,9 fabrics :]e "o l9e 7visible across ! face7 is produc$ by two or m diff]5t color$ ?reads1 7ea* pick =m+ "p face1 "p body or back ( ! fabric71 ! design+ pap] to be us$ is %[n by ! proportion ( ! l9e effects to ! w>p-?reads 7figure7 p] in*4 ,example3 ,take a dress-goods fabric1 extra figur$ 9 ! fill+1 hav+ ! foll[+ texture3 ,w>p1 #fj ends p] in*2 fill+1 #ajj picks p] in*1 d\ble sy/em1 #a pick = gr\nd1 #a pick = figure4 ,! pap] requir$ is z #fj37ajj #b7 or z #fj3ej #ab #aj1 or #f #e4 ,! figure is pa9t$ ^u ! pap] 9 v>i\s colors & by ! c>d-/amp+ :5 cutt+ ! gr\nd c>ds4 ,! extra colors are treat$ z if !y 7 gr\nd4 ,:5 cutt+ = ! extra figure1 deal ) x alone4 ,if a fabric has ! d\ble-clo? sy/em appli$ to ! w>p1 only us+ "o fill+ = bo? k9ds ( w>p1 & ! ,jacqu>d-h>ness is ti$-up = 8s+le sections10 ! squ>$ design+ pap] requir$ is f\nd f ! proportion ( ! numb] ( face & back w>p-?reads p] in*1 to ! numb] ( picks p] in*4 ,example3 ,take a dressgoods fabric con/ruct$ on ! foll[+ texture3 #hj ends w>p1 #a end gr\nd1 #a end figure1 & #fj picks to #a in*4 ,! proportion = ! pap] is z #hj3fj1 or #h #f design+ pap]4 ,if ! tie-up 9 ! loom is = d\ble sections1 7,fig4 ,,liv4 or ,,lvi471 ! fabric 9 ! previ\s example requires ! comp>ison ( ! face-w>p ) ! fill+1 & ! answ] is3 #hj #b or #dj ends ( face-w>p p] in*1 #fj picks fill+ p] in*1 giv+ ! proportion ( #dj to #fj1 requir+ #h #ab1 or #d #f design+ pap] = ! figure4 ,! gr\nd "p ( ! design is execut$ sep>ately on ! same k9d ( pap]2 or if ! weave is ( a %ort repeat1 /amp$ )\t design4 ,9 select+ ! ,o design+ pap] = d\ble clo?1 su* z cloak+s1 coat+s1 etc41 made ) a back-w>p1 & execut$ on any ( ! s+le section tie-ups1 use ! l9es betwe5 ! squ>es to indicate ! back-w>p & back-fill+4 ,! proportion ( ends ( face-w>p to face-fill+ 9 "o in* ( ! f9i%$ fabric indicates ! k9d ( pap] ne$$4 ,example3 ,if a fabric has ! foll[+ texture3 ,w>p1 #b ends face1 #a end back1 #ij ends p] in*4 ,fill+1 #c #a #acb picks ,! k9d ( design+ pap] ne$$ is f\nd by divid+ #ij by #c1 & multiply+ by #b1 ?us3 #ij #c #b #fj1 numb] ( ends ( face-w>p p] in*1 & #acb #d #c #ii1 numb] ( picks fill+ p] in*1 giv+ a #fj #ii pap]1 or its equival5t1 #f #aj4 ,face c>ds = ^! fabrics mu/ be /amp$ twice1 fir/ = ! face weave1 & aft]w>d = ! b9d]4 ,if us+ a #ab-r[ ma*9e1 use pun*es #a1 #b1 #d1 #e1 #g1 #h1 #aj1 & #aa1 = face2 #c1 #f1 #i1 & #ab1 = ! back ( ! fabric4 ,selection ( ,design+ ,pap] = ,two-ply ,+ra9 ,c>pets4 ,always obs]ve ! proportion exi/+ betwe5 ! numb] ( w>p & fill+-?reads4 ,= in/ance1 take a c>pet hav+ #ajgb ends w>p 7#ecf gr\nd & #ecf fill+7 p] y>d1 ) #cj picks p] in* 7#a pick gr\nd & #a pick fill+1 or #ae pair74 ,!n1 #ajgb #cf #bi-bh_/cf ends ( w>p p] in*4 ,! proposition is z #bi-bh_/cf3 #cj2 or1 :at is practically ! same1 #cj3 #cj1 %[+ t ! pap] mu/ be equally divid$1 & #h #h may be us$1 z is usually done4 ,aga91 take a c>pet hav+ #hcb ends w>p 7#daf gr\nd1 #daf figure7 p] y>d ) #bj picks p] in* 7#a pick gr\nd1 #a pick figure1 or #aj pair74 ,!n #hcb #cf #bc-d_/cf1 & ! proportion is z #bc-a_/i3 #bj1 or z #g-ai_/bg3 #f-b_/c1 practically #h3 #g2 & #h #g pap] may be us$4 ,,note4--,x w always be advantage\s = ! c>d /amp+ if ! design+ pap] be select$ s t ! numb] ( w>p-ends 9 "o squ>e equals ! numb] ( griffe-b>s us$ 9 ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e4 ,selection ( ! ,prop] ,bru% = ! ,diff]5t ,o ,design+ ,pap]s4 ,! bru% us$ by ! design] mu/ be clipp$ accord+ to ! size ( ! rectangles ( ! pap]4 ,x %\ld cov] ! rectangle 9 w>p direction at "o sweep ( ! h&2 h5ce ea* size ( ! squ>$ pap] requires a specially prep>$ bru% = quick1 good1 & p]fect "w4 ,colors us$ ,= ,pa9t+ ,textile ,designs4 ,= ?is purpose take common colors 79 p[d]71 & mix ) wat] & mucilage to avoid rubb+ (f aft] application4 ,use no m mucilage ?an necess>y1 z too mu* w be foll[$ by sl[ & imp]fect "w4 ,colors mix$ 9 ?is mann] mu/ be kept moi/ by add+ a few drops ( wat] daily4 ,! colors mo/ g5]ally us$ = pa9t+ textile designs are3 ,v]milion4 ,lamp ,black4 ,:ite ,lead4 ,em]ald ,gre54 ,*rome ,yell[4 ,burnt ,umb]4 ,cobalt ,blue4 ,c>m9e1 etc4 ,a few drops ( alcohol w greatly assi/ ! mix+ ( v]milion1 umb]1 & simil> colors :i* h no aff9ity = wat]4 ,*loride ( lime is us$ on colors hav+ a vegetable basis 7z c>m9e1 etc417 = correct+ imp]fections1 apply+ weaves or *anges 9 ! color$ "p ( a design4 ,if ! design+ pap] becomes greasy1 ! colors w n adh]e4 ,to cure ?is take a moi/ sponge & wipe (f ! pap]4 ,pres]vation ( ,textile ,designs4 ,to prev5t textile designs 7pa9t$ on ! ,o design+ pap]7 f be+ soil$1 apply a ?9 solution ( :ite %ellac v>ni%1 :i* dries almo/ in/antane\sly4 ,a design pres]v$ 9 ?is mann] c be clean$ (f at any "t ) a wet sponge1 & aft] ye>s h pass$ w appe> bright & di/9ct4 ,sket*+ ( ,designs = ,textile ,fabrics to be ,execut$ on ! ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e4 ,! fir/ "w to be done 9 mak+ an orig9al design1 or 9 reproduc+ a design by mak+ an analysis ( a wov5 fabric1 is to prep>e ! 8sket*40 ,?is sket* may be arrang$ ! exact size ( patt]n ne$$1 or x may be proportionally l>g] or small]4 ,if ! design is a reproduction f a wov5 fabric1 a correct duplicate on ! regul> draw+ pap] is requir$2 = ?is sket* is ( ! same value to ! design] = ,jacqu>d "w z ! correct pick+ out ( a weave is to ! design] = h>ness loom-"w4 ,9 prep>+ an orig9al sket*1 ! po9ts to be consid]$ are3 ,! sett+ ( ! figure1 & ! mo/ practical size4 ,me?ods ( ,sett+ ! ,figures4 ,to give a cle> illu/ration ( ?is1 ,figs4 #fi1 #gj1 #ga1 #gb1 #gc1 #gd1 #ge1 & #gf are design$1 repres5t+ a few ( ! me?ods mo/ frequ5tly us$4 ,a sep>ate explanation ( ea* w famili>ize ! /ud5t ) ?is "p ( ! "w4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fi4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gj4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ga4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gb4 ,fig4 #fi illu/rates ! sett+ ( a figure 9 8pla940 ,! space all[$ = "o repeat 7outl9e ( ! squ>e7 is %[n divid$ horizontally & v]tically into two equal p>ts ea* way4 ,see dott$ l9es a1 b1 & c1 d1 ?us giv+ ! c5tre = ! squ>e at ,s4 ,! design conta9s two circles 9 its repeat2 "o ( ^! circles is %[n ) its c5tre at ,s1 & ! o!r circle is illu/rat$ divid$ into f\r qu>t]s1 z %[n 9 ! f\r corn]s ( ! squ>e4 ,fig4 #gj repres5ts ano!r 8pla90 sett+1 b ! figure employ$1 a half-moon ) a small circle ne> x1 is set 9 two directions4 ,fig4 #ga illu/rates a design hav+ 9 its repeat two diff]5t figures1 ea* set by itself 9 8pla940 ,a ?ird figure1 r+ e1 f1 g1 h1 is us$ f\r times to break ! g5]al prom95ce ( ! effect4 ,illu/ration3 ,diagram = ,fig4 #gb4 ,fig4 #gb %[s ! sett+ ( a figure 9 a design simil> to a 8f\r-h>ness brok5 twill40 ,fig4 #gc %[s a comb9ation ( "o figure set 9 f\r-h>ness brok5 twill /yle1 ! o!r set 9 pla94 ,fig4 #gd %[s ! sett+ ( a figure 9 ! 8five-leaf sat90 /yle4 ,see diagram1 p4 #aji4 ,fig4 #ge %[s ! sett+ ( two figures 9 ! 8six-leaf sat90 /yle4 ,fig4 #gf illu/rates ! sett+ ( "o figure 9 ! 8eight-leaf sat90 me?od4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gc4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gd4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ge4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gf4 ,illu/ration3 ,diagram = ,fig4 #gd4 ,illu/ration3 ,diagram = ,fig4 #gf4 ,9 sett+ figures 9 a sket* ! appe>ance ( 8/reaks0 mu/ be avoid$4 ,to d ?is x w be f\nd advantage\s to sket* m ?an "o repeat ( ! patt]n2 if possible1 sket* two ea* way1 t ! /reak+1 if any1 may %[ itself 9 ! sket*1 & be correct$ !re4 ,ne>ly all ! patt]ns se5 9 fabrics :i* %[ /reaks c be trac$ to design]s :o prep>e _! designs )\t sket*es2 = if a sket* _h be5 made1 ! /reak+ ( ! fabric might h be5 =ese5 _h ! design] ex]cis$ prop] c>e 9 ! exam9ation & p]fect+ ( 8 sket*4 ,figures tak5 f plants1 or f life1 c be set 9 ! same mann] z expla9$ = ,figs4 #fi to #gf4 ,= example1 ,fig4 #gg1 ! figure = design4 ,fig4 ,,xxxiv41 p4 #cb1 ! latt] be+ set aft] ! me?od illu/rat$ by ,fig4 #gj4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gg4 ,figs4 ,,xxv41 ,,xxvi41 ,,xxxiii41 ,,xxxviii41 ,,xli41 ,,xliv41 ,,xlv41 ,,xlvii41 ,,xlviii41 ,,li41 ,,lv41 ,,lvii41 ,,lxi41 etc41 all %[ sket*es = fabrics execut$ on "o or ! o!r me?ods ( con/ruction j expla9$4 ,size ( ,sket* ,requir$4 ,?is is regulat$ by ! numb] ( h>ness-cords 9 "o repeat or division1 ! me?od ( tie-up employ$1 & ! texture ( ! f9i%$ fabric4 ,= example3 ,take #djj h>ness-cords = "o division4 ,texture ( ! fabric :5 f9i%$ #ajj_/ij4 ,tie-up employ$1 /raight-?r\gh4 ,requir$3 ,! size ( "o repeat = ! sket*4 ,answ]3 #djj #ajj #d in*es4 ,! figures may be arrang$ 9 ?is sket* to repeat "o1 two1 ?ree1 f\r1 or m times 9 ! #d in*es ?us available4 ,enl>g+ & ,r$uc+ ,figures = ,sket*es4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gi4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gh4 ,figures are n always enl>g$ or r$uc$ by free-h& draw+4 ,"s design]s always use ! 8squ>+ (f0 process4 ,! latt] is cle>ly illu/rat$ by ,figs4 #gh & #gi4 ,fig4 #gi %[s ! r$uction ( ,fig4 #gh1 & ,fig4 #gh ! enl>gem5t ( ,fig4 #gi4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hj4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ha4 ,! me?od obs]v$ is ( diff]5t size squ>es = ea* design4 ,ea* squ>e ( ,fig4 #gh conta9+ ! same proportion ( ! :ole design z is %[n by ! correspond+ squ>es ( ,fig4 #gi4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hb4 ,fig4 #hj illu/rates ano!r me?od ( rul+ (f a figure prep>atory to enl>gem5t1 r$uction1 or duplication4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hc4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hd4 ,?is 8squ>+ (f0 is n always done 9 a sket* = ! reasons j m5tion$1 x be+ frequ5tly done to assi/ ! design] 9 ! orig9al con/ruction ( 8 figure4 ,su* an application ( its utility may be obs]v$ 9 ,fig4 #ha1 c5tre = ,damask2 ,fig4 #hb1 bord] = ,damask2 & ,figs4 #hc & #hd1 sket*es = ,damask table-cov]1 c5tre1 ) side bord]4 ,! design ( a bord] = a c5tre1 or vice v]sa1 mu/ be select$ to correspond 7,fig4 #he74 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #he4 ,fig4 #hf %[s a horizontal & v]tical bord]1 bo? ( ! same design4 ,x is obvi\s t x w\ld be a v imp]fect design if ei!r bord] %\ld be all[$ to =m ! corn]1 h5ce a union mu/ be c>efully con/ruct$ embody+ ! same g5]al features z ! design4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hf4 ,transf]r+ ( ! ,sket* to ! ,squ>$ ,design+ ,pap]4 ,hav+ obta9$ a p]fect sket* ( ! design z x appe>s 9 ! fabric1 or z x is desir$ to %[1 ! outl9es are transf]r$ to ! ,o design+ pap]4 ,?is always requires an enl>gem5t ( ! design1 & to accompli% ?is ! sket* itself mu/ be rul$ proportionally to ! heavy squ>es f\nd on ! ,o design+ pap]4 ,if ^! squ>es %\ld be too small = ! sket*1 !y may be enl>g$ by ?r[+ #d1 #i1 or #ab ( ! 8squ>es0 into "o l>ge "o2 :i* is indicat$ by extra rul+ (f ) p5cil ^u ! requir$ heavy l9es4 ,9 ?is case ! sket* is rul$ (f correspond+ to ^! p5cil l9es4 ,! transf] ( ! sket* to ! requir$ ,o design+ pap] is gov]n$ by rules already expla9$ = ! enl>gem5t ( a design on ! regul> draw+ pap]4 ,aft] ! design is transf]r$ to ! ,o design+ pap] x mu/ be 8outl9$ 9 squ>es40 ,outl9+ 9 ,squ>es4 ,?is consi/s 9 pa9t+ ! small squ>es =m+ ! outl9e ( ! figure z call$ = by ! outl9e ( ! draw+4 ,two me?ods are obs]v$3 ,"o 8outl9+ 9 squ>es0 inside ! 8draw+ outl9e20 ! o!r 8outl9+ 9 squ>es0 outside ! 8draw+ outl9e40 ,if pa9t+ outside ! outl9e1 no small squ>es are tak51 9 :i* ! draw+ outl9e1 tak5 f inside ! figure1 encloses m ?an "o-half ( _! surfaces4 ,if pa9t+ ! 8outl9e 9 squ>es0 inside ! 8draw+ outl9e10 ?is rule is rev]s$1 ?us no small squ>e c be tak5 :i* is ov]run by ! draw+ outl9e m ?an "o-half f ! outside ( ! design4 ,! mo/ difficult "p ( ! outl9+ 9 squ>es is to obta9 ! ne>e/ possible reproduction ( ! draw+ outl9e4 ,if circles1 curves1 etc41 are to be made1 !y mu/ be reproduc$ z ne>ly correct z possible2 no bun*es1 cuts1 etc41 %\ld di/urb its symmetry4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hg4 ,fig4 #hg %[s ! v>iations & me?ods to be resort$ to 9 8outl9+ by squ>es0 ! five circles1 ea* ( diff]5t size4 ,fig4 #hh %[s ! =mation ( project$ /raight l9es v>y+ f a horizontal to a v]tical direction4 ,! full *anges by #hs1 #gs1 #fs1 #es1 #ds1 #cs1 #bs1 #as are %[n 9 full black4 ,! half *anges betwe5 ! #bs & #cs are =m$ ( #bs & #cs tak5 alt]nately z %[n by ! %ad$ l9e4 ,ano!r half *ange betwe5 #as & #bs1 also repres5t$ by ! %ad$ effect1 %[s ! *ange to be a repetition ( ! /ep #a1 #a1 #b4 ,betwe5 ?is la/ m5tion$ *ange & ! regul> #bs *ange1 we f9d ! direction ( a /raight l9e z d]iv$ f a repetition ( #b1 #b1 #a1 indicat$ by ! 4 ,bel[ ! regul> *ange by #as ! /raight l9e is =m$ by us+ #g times #a & once #b repeat$4 ,above ! regul> *ange by #as z %[n by ! black diagonal1 ^! same *anges w =m /raight l9es runn+ f #de to #ij4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hh4 ,rules = 8,outl9+ 9 ,squ>es0 ,inside or ,outside ! ,draw+ ,outl9e4 ,! outl9+ 9 squ>es outside ! draw+ outl9e is obs]v$ 9 designs hav+ ! figure produc$ by ! fill+4 ,! outl9+ 9 squ>es inside ! draw+ outl9e is obs]v$ 9 designs hav+ ! figure produc$ by ! w>p4 ,by rev]s+ ^! two rules1 ! figure 9 ! design w\ld be *ang$ f ! sket*1 = if outl9+ 9 squ>es inside ! draw+ outl9e1 us+ fill+ = figure1 ! figure w\ld be r$uc$ proportionally to ! r$uction made or tak5 away by ! outl9e squ>es4 ,?us1 also1 if ! w>p =m$ ! figure1 & ! 8outl9+ be+ done 9 squ>es10 outside ! draw+ outl9e1 ! figure w\ld increase proportionally ! size ( ! squ>$ outl9e4 ,^! rules ref] to pa9t+ ! squ>es = w>p only4 ,"s fabrics require also ! pa9t+ ( ! fill+ squ>es4 ,! =ego+ explanation may be r$uc$ to ! foll[+ ,rule3 ,if ! figure is requir$ to be 9 :ite1 8outl9e by squ>es0 outside ! draw+ outl9e2 if ! figure is requir$ to be pa9t$1 8outl9e by squ>es0 inside ! draw+ outl9e4 ,aft] ! design is outl9$ by full small squ>es1 ei!r ! figure or ! gr\nd 7z requir$1 b g5]ally ! figure7 is pa9t$ all ov]4 ,! pa9t requir$ = ?is "w has be5 previ\sly describ$4 ,x is only necess>y to m5tion t x mu/ h body en\gh to be cle>ly visible1 b n suffici5t to obscure ! black rul$ l9es ( ! pap]1 :i* mu/ %[ cle>ly ?r\gh ! pa9t4 ,! weave1 if necess>y1 is next put on ! requir$ spots1 ei!r 9 :ite or black pa9t4 ,illu/ration ( a ,sket*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hi4 ,outl9+ on ,o pap]--f9i%$ design & fabric sample4 ,= s+le-clo? fabrics1 z damasks1 dressgoods1 etc4 ,to give a cle> illu/ration ( ! entire process f sket* to f9i%$ design1 ,figs4 #hi1 #ij1 & #ia are design$4 ,fig4 #ib %[+ ! effect ( ! design on ! fabric aft] be+ wov54 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ij4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ia4 ,fig4 #hi repres5ts a sket* = a fabric suppos$ to be execut$ ) #hj w>p-?reads 9 "o repeat2 ?us1 if us+ #h by #h ,o design+ pap]1 7texture 9 ?is example suppos$ to be equal 9 fill+ & w>p71 ! sket* mu/ be divid$ & rul$ (f into eight p>ts ea* way4 ,fig4 #ij illu/rates ! sket* transf]r$ to ! ,o design+ pap]4 ,fig4 ,a repres5ts ! 8draw+ 9 outl9e40 ,fig4 ,b1 ! 8outl9+ 9 squ>es40 ,fig4 #ia1 ! complete design2 & ,fig4 #ib1 ! fabric sample4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ib4 ,design = ,damask ,fabrics to be ,execut$ on a ,jacqu>d ,loom1 ) ,comp\nd ,h>ness ,atta*$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ic4 ,^! designs require no special weave1 z t is tak5 c>e ( by ! comp\nd h>ness 9 front ( ! ,jacqu>d h>ness1 z expla9$ 9 ,*apt] ,,xii41 page #eh4 ,aft] pa9t+ 9 ! design1 x is f9i%$1 ready = c>d-/amp+4 ,fig4 #ic %[s u a leaf1 tak5 f sket* 7,fig4 #hj71 :i* may be us$ 9 connection ) a l>g] design1 b w cle>ly illu/rate ?is division ( textile "w4 ,designs = ,two-ply ,+ra9 ,c>pet4 ,9 ^! fabrics1 :5 ! gr\nd & figure are indicat$ 9 ! design1 ! same is consid]$ z f9i%$4 ,z previ\sly /at$ 9 ! article devot$ to ^! fabrics1 a two-ply +ra9 c>pet is compos$ ( two fabrics1 9 :i* ! j\rnals introduce ! weave1 & ! d\ble-act+ ,jacqu>d ma*9e ! ex*ange ( gr\nd & figure effect4 ,fig4 #id repres5ts a small portion ( a design illu/rat+ ! ?ree pr9cipal effects ( ?is op]ation4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #id4 ,i4 figure up4 ,,ii4 gr\nd up4 ,,iii4 effect te*nically kn[n z 8%ot-ab\t10 d]iv$ f "o pick1 figure up2 "o pick1 gr\nd up2 & repeat$4 ,9 ,fig4 #ie a detail$ description or analysis ( ! int]lac+ w>p & fill+ ( ,fig4 #id is giv54 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ie4 ,x figure up4 ,produc$ by ! ,d gr\nd up4 ,jacqu>d ma*9e4 weave = gr\nd4 ,produc$ by 4 weave = figure4 j\rnals4 ,! two-ply +ra9 c>pet c also be made ^u a ,jacqu>d loom1 ti$ up = d\ble sections4 ,see ,*apt] ,,vi41 page #dh4 ,?is is also ext5sively us$ 9 ! manufacture ( uphol/]y fabrics2 9 fact1 ! latt] m5tion$ me?od is almo/ exclusively us$ 9 ,europe4 ,9 ,fig4 #ie ! weave ( ! 8%ot-ab\t0 effect calls = two picks face1 & two picks back4 ,an exam9ation ( ?is "p ( ! draft %[s t ! w>p-?read repres5t$ by ! light pick #a_/c is to be rais$1 or has be5 rais$ 9 ! adjo9+ heavy pick #c_/a2 fur!r1 we f9d ! two light picks sep>at$ by ! rais+ ( a diff]5t w>p-?read 9 ea* pick1 :i* is also effect$ betwe5 ! two heavy picks by ! l[]+ ( ano!r w>p-?read4 ,?is places ! gr\nd-?read bel[ its correspond+ figure or mate ?read1 or ! figure ?read bel[ its correspond+ gr\nd-?read4 ,if ^! mate ?reads introduc$ 9 succession are requir$ to %[ side by side1 ei!r on ! face or ! back ( ! fabric1 ^! *anges mu/ be indicat$ on ! design by diff]5t colors4 ,if su* effects are to be introduc$ :5 us+ ! common +ra9 ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 ! ne$les ( ! latt] mu/ be op]at$ at ea* pick2 ?is requires twice z _m c>ds z are us$ 9 designs :]e ! mate ?read is always plac$ bel[ or above its correspond+ ?read4 ,designs = ,dressgoods ,figur$ ) ,extra ,w>p 7"o end ,gr\nd1 "o end ,figure71 & ,execut$ on ! ,d\ble ,section ,tie-up4 ,9 ! article expla9+ ! d\ble section tie-up1 see ,*apt] ,,vi41 p4 #dh1 z well z ! "o on ! selection ( ! prop] squ>$ pap] requir$ = ^! fabrics1 ! g5]al "* ( ^! fabrics has be5 expla9$4 ,z m5tion$ 9 ,*apt] ,,vi41 ! ma*9e is divid$ 9 two p>ts1 figure & gr\nd2 ! ,jacqu>d h>ness is leas$ "o end figure1 "o end gr\nd1 & repeat$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #if4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ig4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ih4 ,fig4 #if illu/rates a "p ( su* a design1 & is to be cut = ! figure "p ( ! ne$les4 ,fig4 #ig %[s ! pla9 weave1 :i* is cut )\t a design 9 t portion ( ! c>d :i* op]ates ! gr\nd ( ! ,jacqu>d h>ness4 ,fig4 #ih %[s ! analysis ( ! wov5 fabric = ! design ref]r$ to 9 ,fig4 #if4 ,n4 ,b4--,! pla9 weave us$ = expla9+ ! pres5t example may be sub/itut$ by o!r weaves1 z a #b_/a twill1 #b_/b twill1 or ! f\r h>ness brok5 twill1 etc41 )\t *ang+ ! figure design4 ,designs = ,figur$ ,pile ,fabrics4 ,designs = figur$ pile fabrics 7t]ry or velvet71 ,plu%es1 ,a/rakhans1 etc41 are also execut$ )\t introduc+ a weave 9 ! design4 ,! design is only int5d$ = ! pile-?reads1 :i* are rais$ :5 introduc+ ! wire2 ! front h>ness op]at+ ! gr\nd-w>p4 ,! pile-w>p1 :5 rais$ ov] ! wire1 is b\nd by means ( ! previ\s pick1 z well z by ! pick foll[+ by ! fill+ to ! gr\nd clo?4 ,! ,%ad+ ( ,textile ,fabrics by ! ,weave4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ii4--,%ad+ ( ,fl[]s 9 ,sket*es = ,damask ,fabrics4 ,?is is g5]ally done 9 ! 8figure0 "p 7especially 9 fl[]s1 leaves1 etc471 ( damasks & simil> textile fabrics4 ,! %ad+ c be appli$ to ! sat9 weaves to ! be/ advantage4 ,rule = ,%ad+ ) ,sat9 ,weaves4 ,put ! gr\nd weave 7fill+ = face7 ov] ! entire "p ( ! ,o design+ pap]1 :i* is requir$ to be %ad$2 aft]w>ds add "o1 two1 ?ree or m horizontal or v]tical 7connect+7 spots to ! "o spot :i* =ms ! f\ndation or sat9 fill+ = face4 ,! heav9ess ( ! %ade is regulat$ by ! sket* or ! fabric4 ,= example3 ,9 an #h-leaf sat9 ! diff]5ce betwe5 fill+ = face & w>p = face may be made ) ?ree or f\r *anges only2 or ) ! entire sev5 *anges4 ,= %ad+ twill weaves no rule c be giv54 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ajj4--e-,leaf ,sat94 #d_/a #c_/b #b_/c #a_/d ,fig4 #ajj %[s ! %ad+ ( ! #e-leaf sat91 f\r *anges1 ea* eight ?reads1 giv+ #d #h1 or #cb ?reads = ! effect4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aja4--h-,leaf ,sat94 ,fig4 #aja illu/rates ! #h-leaf sat9 appli$ = %ad+ a circle1 us+ 9 rotation e possible *ange4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ajb4--aj-,leaf ,sat94 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ajc4 #h-;,h>ness ,twill4 ,fig4 #ajb illu/rates ! %ad+ ( ! #aj-leaf sat9 f fill+ = face #a_/i1 to w>p = face #h_/b1 & back aga9 to fill+ = face4 ,fig4 #ajc repres5ts ! #g_/a eight h>ness twill1 %ad$ f ! fill+ = face to ! w>p = face effect2 ! *ange occurr+ e eight picks4 ,gloss>y & ,index4 ,illu/ration3 decorat$ horizontal rule ,te*nical words1 names & t]ms giv5 9 ! ,index1 ) ref]5ce to ! numb] ( ! page :]e expla9$1 are a complete collection us$ 9 ! "w4 ,! ,gloss>y1 connect$ ) ! ,index1 conta9s ^? t]ms 7mo/ly te*nical words7 :i* to "s ext5t h be5 m5tion$ 9 ! book1 or t]ms :i*1 9 ! c\rse ( /udy1 w appe> alone4 ,!y are treat$ 9 a %ort b ?or\gh & compreh5sive mann] 9 ?is ,gloss>y4 ,,page ,am]ican ,index1 ,piano ,c>d-/amp+ ma*9es =1 #hf ,analysis1 ! art ( resolv+ a ma*9e1 fabric1 or sub/ance ( any k9d1 into its con/itu5t p>ts4 ,arrangem5t ( hooks1 ne$les1 griffe-b>s1 spr+s1 spr+-frame & ne$le-bo>d 9 ! s+le-lift ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 #ad ,back+1 ! fill+ ( ! l[] fabric 9 a d\ble clo?4 ,batt51 ! frame :i* c>ries ! cyl9d] 9 its motion to & f ! ne$le-bo>d1 #ae ,batt5 ,motion1 #ae ,b9d]-w>p1 ! w>p-?reads produc+ ! f\ndation ( a fabric2 int]ior w>p2 ?is w>p is g5]ally n visible 9 ! f9i%$ fabric4 ,us$ 9 a/rakhans1 velvets1 plu%es1 ,brussels c>pets1 uphol/]y fabrics1 etc4 ,bobb94 ,! fill+ is w\nd on ! bobb91 & ! latt] plac$ 9 ! %uttle4 ,bon*on1 ,m41 ! inv5tor ( ! pr9ciple ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 #g ,bord]1 ! out] "p ( a fabric4 ,bru%1 z requir$ = p]fect "w1 #ajg ,camel ,hair is ! hair ( c]ta9 camels1 & is us$ ei!r comb$ or c>d$4 ,c>d-guide1 us$ 9 ! ,piano ,c>d-/amp+ ma*9e1 #ij ,c>d-rack1 #ai ,c>d-wire1 #ai ,c>riage1 te*nical "n = a "p ( ! ,piano ,c>d-/amp+ ma*9e1 #hh ---- ,te*nical "n = a "p ( ! ,repeat+ ma*9e1 #ic1 #if ,ca%m]e1 or ,ka%m]e wool1 is ! f9e hair ( ! ,ca%m]e goat1 :i* ?rives ^u ! ,himalaya m\nta9s & surr\nd+ c\ntry1 9 ,asia4 ,ca%m]e is also us$ to indicate c]ta9 fabrics made ( wool or silk w>p & goat hair1 or f9e m]9o wool fill+4 ,cat*1 a "p ( ! ,c>riage 9 ! ,piano ma*9e1 #hh ,cat*es1 a "p ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 #ac ,c5tre ,tie-up or ,po9t ,tie-up1 #cc ,colors us$ = pa9t+ textile designs1 #ajg ,comb]-bo>d1 7,cumb]-bo>d & ,comp>t-bo>d are also te*nical t]ms frequ5tly us$ = x72 a p]=at$ bo>d :i* guides & keeps ! h>ness-cords 9 ! requir$ positions4 ,lately1 wires cross+ ea* o!r & adju/$ 9 a frame are us$ ) advantage2 ?is latt] /yle is pat5t$ by ,! ,g4 ,w4 ,/af=d ,manufactur+ ,co41 ,provid5ce1 ,r4 ,i41 #bj1 #acj ---- ,made 9 /rips & adju/$ 9 a frame1 #ba ---- ,made ( a solid piece ( mat]ial1 #bj ,comb9ation ,tie-up 9 two sections1 #ef ,comp\nd ,h>ness4 ,designs = fabrics execut$ on a ,jacqu>d loom ) ,comp\nd ,h>ness atta*$1 #aaf ---- ,g5]al arrangem5t & application1 #eh ---- ,numb] to use (1 #fc ---- ,positions dur+ weav+1 #fc ---- ,_! op]ation by a sep>ate ma*9e1 #fb ---- ,weaves = work+1 #fc ,cotton is ! :ite1 d[ny1 fibr\s sub/ance :i* envelopes ! se$s ( v>i\s species ( ! cotton plant1 gossypium1 belong+ to ! natural ord] malvace4 ---- ,! size ( ! y>n :5 spun is calculat$ by numb]s1 comm5c+ ) ,no4 #a1 :i* requires #hdj y>ds to #af ounces2 e successive numb] requir+ #hdj y>ds additional = ! orig9al #af ounces4 ,c[ ,hair1 mix$ ) a suitable fibre l wool1 is spun into ! fill+ = co>se +ra9 c>pets1 & simil> co>se fabrics1 z back+-fill+ = cloak+s1 etc4 ,cyl9d]1 a "p ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 #g1 #i1 #af ,damask1 a fabric orig9ally made at ,damascus1 & compos$ ( ri* silk4 ,! "n is at pres5t appli$ to v>i\s textile fabrics compos$ ( cotton1 l951 etc41 :i* are ( common h\sehold use1 z table-cov]s1 t[els1 etc4 ,design+ ,pap] = ! diff]5t textile fabrics1 #ajc ,divisions ( a comb]-bo>d1 #bb ,dobbies1 ,index ma*9es1 ,wit*es1 etc41 are small ,jacqu>d ma*9es1 or ma*9es con/ruct$ ^u its pr9ciples4 ,dobby ,c>d-pun*+ ,ma*9e1 #hf ,d\ble ,clo?1 selection ( design+ pap] =1 #ajf ---- ,two sep>ate fabrics fa/5$ toge!r 9 ! process ( weav+4 ,! advantages ( d\ble clo? are v>i\s1 among/ :i* we f9d3 ,to produce a heavi] & ?ick] clo?2 us+ mat]ials to _! be/ advantage2 produc+ effects impossible to be procur$ 9 s+le clo?1 etc4 ,!re are ?ree divisions ( d\ble clo?3-- a1 us+ "o sy/em ( w>p & two sy/ems ( fill+2 b1 us+ two sy/ems ( w>p & "o sy/em ( fill+2 c1 us+ two sy/ems ( w>p & two sy/ems ( fill+4 ,d\ble-lift ,d\ble-cyl9d] ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e1 pr9ciple ( con/ruction1 advantages ov] ! s+le-lift1 & me?od ( op]ation1 #fi ,d\ble-lift ,s+le-cyl9d] ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e1 pr9ciple ( con/ruction1 advantages ov] ! s+le-lift1 & me?od ( op]ation1 #fg ,d\p1 an arrangem5t us$ 9 ! manufacture ( gauze fabrics :i* compels c]ta9 w>p-?reads to cross ea* o!r1 #fd-ff ,d\p+ ,w>p1 also kn[n z ,:ip-?read1 & us$ 9 connection ) ! gr\nd-w>p or /&>d ?read 9 ! con/ruction ( gauze fabrics1 #fd ,draw+-9 ,draft1 me?od to be obs]v$ 9 draw+-9 a w>p 9 ! eyes ( ! h$dle4 ,end1 ! te*nical ^w = a ?read :i* is us$ (t5 9 its place4 ,exp]t 9 ,c>d-/amp+1 h[ to become1 #hf1 #hh ,extra ,f9e1 a two-ply +ra9 c>pet con/ruct$ ) #hcb ?reads w>p1 7#cf in* wide fabric71 exclusive ( ! selv$ge1 #gd ,extra ,sup]1 a two-ply +ra9 c>pet con/ruct$ ) #ajgb ?reads 9 w>p1 7#cf in* wide fabric71 exclusive ( ! selv$ge1 #ge ,extra ,w>p1 designs figur$ )1 #aag ,fabric1 ! /ructure ( any?+2 ! mann] 9 :i* ! p>ts ( any?+ are unit$ by art & labor2 workman%ip1 texture1 make1 etc4 ---- ,manufactur$ clo? ( any k9d or mat]ial4 ,fabrics = :i* ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e mu/ be us$1 #i ,falcon1 ,m41 ! inv5tor ( ! cyl9d] & ! ,jacqu>d c>ds1 #g ,fe$ ,cyl9d]1 a "p ( ! ,repeat+ ma*9e1 #if ,fill+1 ! ?reads runn+ crosswise 9 a clo?4 ,flax4 ,?is t]m is us$ to designate ! flax or l95 fibre1 & also ! plant f :i* x is obta9$4 ,frame1 a "p ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 #aa ,fr5* ,index1 ,piano ,c>d-/amp+ ma*9es =1 #hf ,gauze ,fabrics1 _! peculi> *>act]i/ic con/ruction1 #fd ---- ,?read+ ( ! h>ness =1 #fd-ff ---- ,ty+-up =1 #fd ,griffe1 a "p ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e2 also call$ ,knife ,box1 #g1 #i1 #aj1 #ac ,griffe-b>s1 a "p ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e2 also call$ ,knives1 #i1 #aj ,guide-bo>d1 us$ = regulat+ ! height ( ! mails by ty+-up a ,jacqu>d h>ness1 #bc ,guid+-rod4 ,see ,jacqu>d ,plung]4 ,hamm]1 a "p ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 #af ,h>ness cords1 ! cords ( ea* lea%1 #i ,heavy ,squ>e1 its practical po9ts ( use on design+ pap]1 #aje ,h$dle & ,h>ness-cord1 comb9+1 #bc ,h$dles1 z requir$ = comp\nd h>ness1 #fb ---- ,= ! ,jacqu>d h>ness1 #i1 #bb ,hook1 a "p ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 #i1 #aj1 #ac ,index ,ma*9es4 ,see ,dobbies4 ,+ra91 z appli$ to c>pets1 0 orig9ally int5d$ = a fabric :]e ! wool 0 color$ be=e c>d+ & sp9n+1 b :i* is n true at pres5t1 z ! y>n is mo/ly manufactur$ be=e color+4 ,! great v>iety ( colors us$ 9 an +ra9 c>pet at ! pres5t "t1 ! con/ant *ang+ ( /yles1 besides ! sav+ ( exp5se by color+ ! y>n aft] manufacture1 are ! g5]al reasons = x4 ,+ra9 c>pet 9 our c\ntry means ! same z ,scotti% or ,kidd]m9/] 9 ,europe4 ,+ra9 ,c>pet1 two-ply1 con/ruction ( ! fabric1 #gb ---- ,two-ply1 designs =1 #aaf ---- ,two-ply1 ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e1 #ga ---- ,two-ply1 selection ( design+ pap]1 #ajf ---- ,two-ply1 ty+-up ( its ,jacqu>d h>ness1 #gb ,+ra9 ,c>pet ,loom1 two-ply1 built ) a /ation>y %uttle-raceway & an indep5d5t comb = beat+ up ! fill+1 #hb ---- ,two-ply1 9 :i* ! j\rnals are lift$ f above by means ( a cam arrangem5t1 #ha ---- ,two-ply1 9 :i* ! j\rnals are lift$ f bel[ & controll$ by ei!r a *a9 or cam motion1 #ha1 #hb ,jacqu>d ,c>ds1 g5]al arrangem5t & application1 #g1 #i1 #ag1 #ah ---- ,prep>+ (1 #he ---- ,/amp+ (1 #he1 #ia ,jacqu>d ,design+1 practical h9ts1 #ajc ,jacqu>d ,h>ness1 g5]al arrangem5t & application1 #bj ,jacqu>d1 ,joseph ,m>ie1 life (1 #g1 #h ,jacqu>d ,loom1 a loom furni%$ ) ! ,jacqu>d arrangem5t4 ,jacqu>d ,plung]1 a "p ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e2 also kn[n z ,guid+-rod1 #ab ,j\rnals1 peculi>ly con/ruct$ h>ness frames us$ 9 ! manufacture ( two-ply +ra9 c>pets1 #ge ,jute is a native plant ( ,*9a & ! ,ea/ ,indies2 its long fibre1 :i* is ( a br[n to silv] gray color1 is us$ l>gely 9 ! manufacture ( ,brussels & tape/ry c>pets1 rugs1 etc41 = ! body--gr\nd /ructure ( ! fabric4 ,x is di/+ui%$ f flax by be+ color$ yell[ "u ! influ5ce ( sulphuric acid & iod9e solution4 ,! size ( ! ?read :5 spun is indicat$ by ! same rule z wool--,cut sy/em--#cjj y>ds to #af ounces4 ,keys1 z us$ 9 ! ,piano ,c>d-/amp+ ma*9e1 #hf ,keys1 z us$ 9 ! ,repeat+ ma*9e1 #ic ,key ,wire1 us$ 9 ! ,repeat+ ma*9e1 #ie ,lace-hole ,press1 #if ,lac+ ( ,jacqu>d c>ds1 #ig ,lac+ ,frame1 #ig ,lac+ ,ma*9es1 us+ two ne$les = lac+ ea* s]ies ( holes1 #ih ---- ,us+ "o ne$le & "o %uttle = lac+ ea* s]ies ( holes1 #ajj ,lac+ ,ne$les1 #ajj ,lac+ ,tw9e1 ! k9d to use = ma*9e lac+1 #ajj ,lant]n1 an iron ext5sion put on ! cyl9d] ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e4 ,! cyl9d] is turn$ by means ( ! cat*es work+ on ! lant]n1 #af ,leaf1 a h>ness2 ?us3 #c-leaf twill or #c-;h>ness twill1 etc4 ,lease1 or leas4 ,leas+ ( ! ,jacqu>d h>ness1 #bc ,lea%1 two or m h>ness-cords comb9$ & adju/$ to "o neck-cord4 ,= e h>ness-cord a lea% conta9s !re w be f\nd a repeat 9 ! design to correspond1 #i ,lift]-bo>ds1 or ,trap-bo>ds1 us$ 9 ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e = two-ply +ra9 c>pet1 #ga ,lift+ ( ! griffe1 #ab1 #ag ,l+o1 a small iron weight = ea* h>ness-cord1 #i1 #bb1 #bc ,loom ,pick]s are g5]ally made ( raw hide2 less frequ5tly ( sole lea!r or wood4 ,! pick] /ick1 :i* is op]at$ by means ( cams or arms on ! loom1 drives ! pick]1 & ! latt] ! %uttle4 ,loop-guide1 a "p ( ! lac+ ma*9e1 #ii ,mail1 made ( metal1 =ms ! c5tre "p ( a tw9e h$dle2 9 ! eye ( ! mail ! w>p-?read is drawn1 #bb1 #bc ---- ,its position 9 ! loom1 #bc ,m>g91 pla9 "p betwe5 bord] & selv$ge1 or c5tre & bord] 9 a damask table-cov]1 etc4 ,mate ,?reads1 te*nical "n us$ 9 two-ply +ra9 c>pets2 "o gr\nd-?read & its correspond+ figure-?read1 #gb-hj ,m]9o1 orig9ally ! wool ( ! ,spani% ,m]9o %eep1 & kn[n z "s ( ! f9e/ wool4 ,colonial wools1 z ,au/ralia1 ,cape ( ,good ,hope1 ,new ,zeal&1 be> ! "* ( ! ,m]9o1 d]iv$ ?r\gh introduc+ & bre$+ ! orig9al /ock 9 ^? c\ntries4 ,modifications ( ! s+le-lift ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 #fg ,mohair1 ! fleece ( ! ,angora goat4 ,x is l>gely us$ 9 ! manufacture ( light-weight dress goods1 :i* are *>act]iz$ by _! lu/re4 ,9 pile fabrics1 z plu%es1 velvets1 a/rakhans1 etc41 ( a pla9 or figur$ d5om9ation1 mohair is (t5 us$ = ! 8pile-w>p10 :]eas ! gr\nd or body ( ! fabric is made ( cotton4 ,neck-cord1 ! cord comb9+ lea% & hook1 #i ,ne$le1 a "p ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 #i1 #aj1 #ad ,ne$le-bo>d1 a "p ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 #ag ,op5 ,h>ness1 tie-up1 #bc ,outl9+ 9 ,squ>es1 me?ods & rules =1 #aac-aae ,patt]n-cyl9d]1 a "p ( ! ,repeat+ ma*9e1 #id-if ,p]=at$ ,bottom-bo>d1 a "p ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e2 ?r\gh ?is bo>d ! neck-cords are pass$1 comb9+ ! hooks to ! lea%1 #ab ,petty-po9t ,tie-up1 #ea ,piano ,c>d-/amp+ ,ma*9e1 op]at$ by belt p[]1 #ia ---- ,op]at$ by foot p[]1 #hf ,pick1 "o fill+ ?read2 "o passage ( ! %uttle ?r\gh ! %$4 ,pile ,fabrics c h ! pile produc$ ei!r by ! w>p or ! fill+4 ,if ! pile has to be produc$ by ! w>p1 a c]ta9 numb] ( w>p-?reads are rais$ on c]ta9 picks ov] wires4 ,^! elevat$ ?reads are int]wov5 9 ! pick prec$+ ! int]weav+ ( ! wire1 & also 9 ! pick foll[+ x1 ) a fill+-?read to ! gr\nd clo?4 ,aft] a c]ta9 numb] ( wires h be5 ins]t$1 ! fir/ int]wov5 wire is drawn out ( ! fabric to be us$ ov]1 :i* op]ation is repeat$ 9 rotation ) e wire4 ,we f9d t]ry & velvet piles4 ,if ! pile is produc$ by ! fill+1 "s or all fill+-?reads mu/ float 9 c]ta9 places to all[ ! ?read to be cut at ?is place1 or its fibres to be rais$ dur+ ! process ( f9i%+ ! fabric1 #ec1 #aah ---- ,designs =1 #aah ,pla9-weave1 also kn[n z cotton-weave2 9 ?is weave1 w>p & fill+ cross ea* o!r at "r angles1 & int]weave alt]nately4 ,frequ5tly us$ = gr\nd-weave 9 ,jacqu>d designs4 ,po9t ,tie-up or ,c5tre ,tie-up1 #cc ,po9t ,tie-up1 = two-ply +ra9 c>pets1 #gh ,po9t ,tie-up 9 ?ree ,sections1 #ee ,pres]v+ ( designs execut$ on ,o pap]1 #ajg ,press]1 a "p ( ! ,lac+ ma*9e1 #ii ,pun*1 z us$ 9 ! ,piano ,c>d-/amp+ ma*9e1 #hf ---- ,z us$ 9 ! ,repeat+ ma*9e1 #ic ,pun*-head1 a "p ( ! ,piano ma*9e1 #hf ---- ,a "p ( ! ,repeat+ ma*9e1 #ic ,rack1 a "p ( ! ,piano ,c>d-/amp+ ma*9e1 #hh ,re$1 a s]ies ( n>r[ /rips ( metal1 betwe5 :i* ! w>p-?reads pass 9 ! loom4 ,! purpose ( ! re$ is to keep ! w>p ev5ly divid$1 also to /rike ! fill+ 9 _m places at ! beat+ ! re$ t[>ds ! brea/-beam ( ! loom4 ,! re$ is kn[n by numb]s1 ! numb] 9 ea* case indicat+ h[ _m splits are 9 "o in*4 ,,rule = asc]ta9+ ! re$ numb]1 if ! numb] ( ends 9 ! w>p & ! wid? 9 ! re$ are kn[n2 ! ?reads p] d5t ei!r giv5 or to be select$ accord+ to ! fabric3--,divide ! numb] ( ends 9 ! w>p by ! wid? 9 ! re$1 :i* gives ! numb] ( ?reads p] in*2 divide ?is result aga9 by ! numb] ( ?reads 9 "o d5t1 accord+ to ! weave or r[s deep ( comb]-bo>d4 ,:ole numb]s or half numb]s are g5]ally us$ = grad+ re$s only4 ,reel1 or ,idl]1 a "p ( ! ,repeat+ ma*9e1 #ic ,repeat1 t :i* is to be repeat$2 z ! repeat ( a patt]n1 ! repeat ( an effect 9 a design1 etc4 ,repeat+ ,ma*9e1 = ,jacqu>d c>ds1 #ib ,res]ve ,r[s4 ,ne>ly e ,jacqu>d ma*9e conta9s two extra r[s ( ne$les 9 addition to ! numb] z classifi$1 #aj ,sat9-weaves are *>act]iz$ by a smoo? face4 ,! /it* ( ! ?reads is opposite to t ( ! twill weaves4 ,! f\ndations = design+ a sat9-weave are1 9 ! fir/ place1 to arrange z mu* z possible di/ribut$ /it*+2 9 ! second1 to h ?is z regul> z possible4 ,! sat9-weaves comm5ce ) ! five-h>ness1 & c aft] ?is be made on any numb] ( h>ness4 ,to f9d ! run ( /it*+ 9 ! easie/ way1 use ! foll[+ rule3 ,divide ! numb] ( h>ness into two p>ts1 :i* mu/ nei!r be equal1 nor ! "o a multiple ( ! o!r4 ,aft]w>ds take "o result & add x1 comm5c+ to c\nt f #a until all ?reads or h>nesses are tak5 up1 z example3 ,five h>ness--#e #b #c4 ,comm5c+ ) "o & add+ two po9ts1 we h z foll[s3 #a #b #c #b #e #b #g1 or #b #b #d4 ,?is w give ! /it* z3 #a1 #c1 #e1 #b1 #d1 :i* means3 ! fir/ pick /it*es 9 ! fir/ w>p-?read1 ! second pick /it*es 9 ! ?ird w>p-?read1 ! ?ird pick /it*es 9 ! fif? w>p-?read1 ! f\r? pick /it*es 9 ! second w>p-?read1 ! fif? pick /it*es 9 ! f\r? w>p-?read4 ---- ,are frequ5tly employ$ = gr\nd-weaves 9 ,jacqu>d designs4 ,section ( ! comb]-bo>d1 divid+ ! comb]-bo>d 9 its dep?4 ,sectional ,h>ness ,arrangem5t1 #bf ,select+ ,ne$le1 us$ 9 ! ,repeat+ ma*9e1 #id ,selv$ge1 ! edge ( clo?1 wov5 9 su* a mann] z to prev5t ravell+1 & (t5 clos$ by complicat+ ! ?reads2 also call$ ,li/1 ,li/+4 ,sett+ ( ,figures 9 a sket*1 #ajh ,sett+ ( ! ,cyl9d]1 #ah ,%ad+ ( textile fabrics by ! weave1 #aah ---- ,rules =1 #aai ,%$1 ! sep>ation ( ! w>p to all[ ! %uttle to pass ?r\gh4 ,%ot-ab\t1 ! alt]nate ex*ange 7fill+ ways7 ( figure up & gr\nd up 9 two-ply +ra9 c>pet1 #gb1 #aag ,%uttles are ! means = c>ry+ ! fill+ into & ?r\gh ! %$4 ,%uttle-box ,me*anism1 = c>pet h&-looms1 #hj ,%uttle-raceway1 ! "p ( ! lay on :i* ! %uttle travels to & fro4 ,silk consi/s ( ! pale yell[1 buff color$1 or :ite fibre1 :i* ! silk worm sp9s ar\nd ab\t itself :5 ent]+ ! pupa or *rysalis /ate4 ,spun ,silks are calculat$ z to size ( ! ?read on ! same basis z cotton4 ,! adopt$ cu/om ( specify+ ! size ( raw silk is by giv+ ! weight ( #ajjj y>ds 9 drams1 avoirdupois4 ,s+le ,clo?1 selection ( design+ pap]1 #aje ,s+le-lift ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e4 ,by x w>p-?reads1 z call$ =1 accord+ to ! ,jacqu>d c>ds1 are rais$ & l[]$ ea* pick4 ,sizes ( ,jacqu>d ,ma*9es1 #aj ,sket*es1 enl>g+ & r$uc+ figures =1 #aaj ,sket*1 pr9ciples =1 #ajh ---- ,size requir$1 #aji ---- ,transf]r+ to ! ,o design+ pap]1 #aab1 #aae ,skipp]1 te*nical "n = a "p ( ! ,piano ,c>d-/amp+ ma*9e1 #hh ,spools4 ,?is te*nical t]m applies to a b>rel1 hav+ a head on ea* end4 ,spr+ ,frame1 a "p ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 #ad ,spr+s1 z us$ 9 connection ) ! ne$les 9 ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 #i1 #aj1 #ae ,squ>+-(f1 a process employ$ = enl>g+ & r$uc+ figures 9 sket*es1 #aaj ---- ,a process employ$ 9 ! con/ruction ( orig9al sket*es1 #aaa ---- ,a process employ$ 9 transf]r+ ! sket* to ! ,o design+ pap]1 #aab1 #aae ,/raight-?r\gh ,tie-up4 ,! ,jacqu>d h>ness ?read$ on ! ma*9e 9 ! direction f front to re>1 #bc ---- ,! ,jacqu>d h>ness ?read$ on ! ma*9e 9 ! direction f re> to front1 #bf ---- ,on ! ,engli% sy/em1 #bh ---- ,= repeat+ effects 9 "o repeat ( ! design1 #bi ---- ,= two-ply +ra9 c>pets1 #gd ---- ,9 f\r sections1 #eg ---- ,9 ?ree sections1 #ec ---- ,9 two sections 7= d\ble clo?71 #dh1 #ej1 #ea ---- ,( a ,jacqu>d h>ness1 hav+ front h>ness atta*$1 #cb ---- ,s+le & d\ble sections comb9$1 #ea ,/raight-?r\gh ,tie-up & ,po9t ,tie-up1 comb9$1 #ce1 #ci1 #db1 #dc1 #df ---- ,appli$ to a d\ble-lift d\ble-cyl9d] ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 #gj ,/op ,motions1 = looms1 are atta*m5ts = /opp+ ! loom :5 ! fill+ breaks or runs out4 ,! ,protector1 an additional atta*m5t to ! loom1 might also be classifi$ z a /op motion1 z x /ops ! loom 9 case ! %uttle fails to rea* its box4 ,sup]1 a two-ply +ra9 c>pet con/ruct$ ) #ifj ?reads w>p 7#cf in* wide fabric71 exclusive ( ! selv$ge1 #gf ,tail-cords1 ! sub/itutes ( ! regul> hooks us$ 9 ! +ra9 c>pet ma*9e1 #ga ,temples1 atta*m5ts to ! loom on ea* side ( ! selv$ge1 = hold+ ! la/ wov5 "p ( ! fabric 9 ev5 wid?1 ) ! wid? ( ! fabric 9 its re$1 ?us prev5t+ z mu* useless *af+ ( ! w>p z possible4 ,t]ry1 a loop2 an uncut pile fabric4 ,textile1 a wov5 fabric4 ,texture1 *ang+1 = fabrics us+ a ,jacqu>d h>ness ?read$ 9 ! solid comb]-bo>d1 #ba ---- ,numb] ( w>p & fill+-ends 9 "o in*2 !re are two textures3 a1 = ! fabric 9 ! loom 7re$74 b1 = ! f9i%$ fabric4 ,twills are frequ5tly employ$ z gr\nd-weaves = ,jacqu>d designs4 ---- ,a weave runn+ diagonally across ! fabric4 ,!y are divid$ into ev5-sid$1 unev5-sid$1 brok51 & fancy twills4 ,twi/4 ,! am\nt & ! direction ( ! twi/ 9 y>ns ( any k9d ( mat]ial is v important2 ?us x %\ld nev] be ov]look$ 9 ! prep>ation ( a design = textile fabrics4 ,ty+-up ( ,jacqu>d ,looms1 ) comp\nd h>ness atta*$1 #eh ,vaucanson1 ! inv5tor ( ! griffe1 #g ,velvet1 a cut pile fabric4 ,w>p1 ! ?reads runn+ l5g?wise 9 a clo?2 ! y>n :i* passes ?r\gh ! ,jacqu>d h>ness & ! re$4 ,weave1 ! way ! two sy/ems ( ?reads 7w>p & fill+71 compos$ ( any k9d ( mat]ial1 are int]lac$4 ,:ip-?read4 ,see ,d\p+ ,w>p4 ,wit*es4 ,see ,dobbies4 ,wool4 ,by ! t]m wool we compreh5d ! hairy cov]+ ( sev]al species ( mamalia1 m especially t ( ! %eep4 ,x is m flexible1 ela/ic & curly ?an hair4 ,wool z us$ = w>p & fill+ is ei!r comb$ or c>d$1 te*nically kn[n z wor/$ or wool-spun y>n4 ,! size ( ! ?read = wor/$ is calculat$ by #efj y>ds to #af ounces = ,no4 #a1 & ! same numb] ( y>ds is add$ = ea* successive numb] balanc$ by ! orig9al #af ounces4 ,= wool5 y>n two me?ods ( calculat+ ! size are 9 use3 ,! ,cut sy/em1 hav+ #cjj y>ds to "o cut 7#af ounces72 ! ,run sy/em1 hav+ #afjj y>ds to "o run 7#af ounces74 ,! same numb] ( y>ds are add$ to ea* successive numb] ( cut or run1 also to be balanc$ by ! orig9al #af ounces4 ,! ,bridesburg ,manuf'g ,co4 ,,textile ,,ma*9]y ,,build]s1 #bja-bjc ,*e/nut ,/reet1 ,philadelphia4 ,/ockton ,bates1 ,presid5t4 ,wm4 ,d4 ,%ub]t1 ,secret>y4 ,illu/ration3 ,,looms3 ,roll]1 ,goodye>1 & ,wit* ,h>ness1 ,%eet+1 ,duck1 ,bag1 ,clipp]1 ,gebh>t1 ,tick+1 ,,& ,,all ,,k9ds ,,arrang$ ,,= ,,jacqu>d ,,tops4 ,,wool ,,& ,,wor/$ ,,c>ds1 ,,pick]s1 ,,r5ovators1 ,,mules4 ,,%oddy ,,& ,,hair ,,pick]s4 ,foss ,pevey1--,wellman1--& ,iron ,roll] ,c>ds4 ,draw+1--,railway ,heads1--,sp9n+ ,frames1 ,reels1--,mill ,w>p]s1--,spool]s4 ,plans = all k9ds ( ,mills made4 ,,jas4 ,h4 ,,bill+ton ,,co41 ---- ,e/abli%$ #ahdh4---- ,,manufactur]s' ,,supplies ,,( ,,e ,,description1 ,,= ,,cotton1 ,,wool51 ,,silk1 ,,& ,,wor/$ ,,ma*9]y4 ,,manufactur]s ,,( ,bobb9s1 ,spools1 ,%uttles1 & ,skew]s1 ,oak ,lea!r ,belt+1 ,ma*9e ,c>ds1 & ,specialties4 ,,g5]al ,,mill ,,furni%]s4 ,no4 #aac ,*e/nut ,/reet1 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,,correspond5ce ,,solicit$4 ,,b>b\r',s ,,iri% ,,flax ,,?read1 ,illu/ration3--#aghd--;,,flax--#ahhg--,t rade ,m>k ,,b>b\r',s ,,jacqu>d ,,h>ness ,,?read1 ,not$ = ,/r5g? & ,smoo?ness1 & ,w>rant$ n to ,/ret*4 ,,! ,,b>b\r ,,bro!rs ,,company1 ,new ,york1 ,bo/on1 ,philadelphia1 ,*icago1 ,/4 ,l\is1 & ,san ,francisco4 ,illu/ration3 ,,bonak] ,,jones ,,manufactur]s ,,( ,,design ,,pap] ,,= ,,c>pet ,,uphol/]y ,,design]s2 #eh ,n #d,,? ,,/4 ,,philadelphia4 ,repres5t$ by ,,v9c5t ,t4 ,,raff]ty4 ,hav+ ! exp]i5ce & facilities = mak+ ,design ,pap]s 9 all sizes1 we are enabl$ to supply manufactur]s ) ! be/ at ! l[e/ rates4 ,special sizes made to ord]4 ,w be pleas$ to give y prices = any quantity or size y may ne$4 ,jacqu>d ,ma*9es 7,s+le & ,d\ble ,action7 ,( ,improv$ ,con/ruction4 ,illu/ration ,we give great att5tion to ! workman%ip1 use only ! be/ mat]ials1 & produce ,! ,be/ ,ma*9e 9 ! ,m>ket4 ,our prices comp>e favorably ) ^? m *eaply built4 ,we furni% ma*9es con/ruct$ on ! ,engli% plan--leav+ out bottom bo>d & glass rods--:5 desir$4 ,geo4 ,w4 ,/af=d ,mfg4 ,co41 ,nos4 #c & #e ,po9t ,/reet1 ,provid5ce1 ,r4 ,i41 ,,ma*9e ,,build]s4 ,s+le & ,d\ble ,action ,jacqu>ds1 ,s+le & ,d\ble ,action ,dobbies1 ,! only ,d\ble ,action ,op5 ,%$ ,,positive ,dobbie1 ,equaliz+ ,spr+ ,jacks1 ,cottrell's ,positive ,let-(f ,motion1 etc41 etc4 ,sket*es & ,designs furni%$ & ,c>ds ,cut4 ,mail ,eyes1 ,tw9e1 ,l+oes1 ,wires1 ,spr+s1 etc41 furni%$4 ,l5o ,weav+--bo? simple & comp\nd--a specialty4 ,illu/ration3 7,pat5t$ ,septemb] #f1 #ahhg47 ,?is ,comb]-bo>d c be se5 at ! ,,textile ,,s*ool1 #accf ,spr+ ,g>d5 ,/reet1 ,philadelphia4 ,,/af=d',s ,,pat5t ,,comb] ,,bo>d4 ,! divisions are made ) wires cross+ ea* o!r1 giv+ ! lea/ possible we>+ surface on ! tw9e1 ?us r$uc+ friction on ! outside ( ! h>ness1 & consequ5t we>2 prev5t+ bagg+ & ! jump+ ( l+oes2 ,jacqu>ds c be run at mu* high] spe$ :]e ?is bo>d is adopt$4 ,five ye>s' use has su/a9$ ! above claims & demon/rat$ its practicability4 ,,! ,,textile ,,record1 #dbe ,,walnut ,,/reet1 ,,philadelphia4 ,,! ,,=emo/ ,,textile ,,j\rnal ,,( ,,! ,,unit$ ,,/ates4 ,cov]+ e ,dep>tm5t ( ,textile ,manufacture4 ,weav+ & ,jacqu>d ,"w ,fully ,discuss$4 ,illu/ration3 ,ea* ,numb] ,! l>ge/ /aff fill$ ) ( ,orig9al & ,practical ,exp]t ,contributors4 ,articles4 ,,! ,,textile ,,record has positive practical value to e mill own] & mill work]4 ,its contributions to ! lit]ature ( ! textile indu/ry surpass 9 value & int]e/ ev]y?+ yet attempt$ on ?is side ( ! ,atlantic4 ,,ri*ly ,,illu/rat$ ,,9 ,,ea* ,,numb]4 ,,sample ,,copies ,,on ,,application ,,to ,,! ,,textile ,,record1 ,no4 #dbe ,walnut ,/reet1 ,,philadelphia1 ,,pa4 ,,royle',s ,illu/ration3 ,highe/ ,aw>d at ! ,am]ican ,in/itute1 #ahgc1 ,! ,special ,m$al ( ,silv]4 ,highe/ ,aw>d at ,new ,orleans1 ,! ,gold ,m$al ) ,fir/ ,degree ( ,m]it4 ,,improv$ ,,piano ,,ma*9es --,,&-- ,automatic1 ,positive ,action1 ,,p[] ,,repeat]s1 ,= ,cutt+ ,jacqu>d ,patt]n ,c>ds4 ,,improv$ ,,silk ,,ma*9]y3 ,,w>p]s1 ,,beam]s1 ,,quill]s1 ,,dobbies1 ,,cov]+ ,,or 8,,gimp0 ,,ma*9es1 ,,twi/]s1 c4 ,,john ,,royle ,,sons1 ,,pat]son1 ,n4 ,j4 ,illu/ration3 ,,new ,,high-,,spe$ ,,p[] ,,loom ,,= ,,+ra9 ,,c>pets4 ,built by ,,! ,m4 ,a4 ,,furbu% ,,son ,,ma*9e ,,co41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa41 ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 --,"o ,hundr$ ,picks p] ,m9ute4-- ,fifte5 ,%uttles ,pick & ,pick4 --,,new-- ,,high-,,spe$ ,,p[] ,,loom ,,= ,,+ra9 ,,c>pets4 ,built by ,,! ,m4 ,a4 ,,furbu% ,,son ,,ma*9e ,,co41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa41 ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 --,,"o ,,hundr$ ,,picks ,,p] ,,m9ute4-- ,,fifte5 ,,%uttles ,,pick ,,& ,,pick4 ,?is ,loom comb9es ! be/ features ( ! ,duckwor? & ,murkl& ,looms2 :ile possess+ ! %ad+ capacity ( ! latt]1 x is easi] 9 its op]ation1 & ( a consid]ably high] spe$ ?an ei!r4 ,! foll[+ po9ts z to ! con/ruction & op]ation ( ?is ,loom w prove to any manufactur]1 sup]9t5d5t1 fix] or weav] ! sup]iority ( ! same ov] any o!r /yle3 ,runs light4 ,,!re ,,is ,,no ,,heavy ,,lay ,,to ,,op]ate1 ,,z ,,9 ,,o!r ,,looms4 ,! lay 7raceway & boxes7 are /ation>y1 & ! fill+ is beat5 up by means ( a comb1 :i* is ! only "p t sw+s2 be+ light1 x c easily accompli% ! movem5ts necess>y = ! "o hundr$ picks p] m9ute1 :i* c\ld nev] be atta9$ by op]at+ ! lay z 9 any o!r loom4 ,no te>+ ( clo? ,,by ,,! ,,%uttle ,,cat*+ ,,9 ,,! ,,w>p ,,& ,,be+ ,,drawn ,,up ,,by ,,! ,,re$1 z ! comb = beat+ up ! fill+ passes 9 front ( ! %uttle4 ,easy on fill+4 ,! peculi> %ape ( ! fill+ =k all[s ! %uttle to pass "u x1 at ! same "t m]ely op5+ wide en\gh to admit ! fill+4 ,! motion is easy & delicate1 & w n break ! poore/ fill+--a great po9t ( sup]iority ov] all o!r high-spe$ looms1 9 :i* !re is always m or less t5d5cy to *op ! fill+4 ,%uttle boxes4 ,! box me*anism is ! same z 9 ! ,murkl& ,loom1 !re be+ a revolv] ( sev5 boxes & ?ree upright boxes1 ?us giv+ t5 boxes on ea* side1 or tw5ty 9 all4 ,! ,jacqu>d ma*9e is con/ruct$ pr9cipally z 9 ! ,duckwor? ,loom1 al?\gh ! cyl9d] gauge1 bo>ds & j\rnals are l ^? ( ! ,murkl&4 ,! cyl9d] is work$ ) ! rock %aft ( ! ,duckwor? ,loom1 in/ead ( a cam %aft4 ,! *ange ge>s ,,= ,,take-,,up1 in/ead ( be+ worm ge>s1 are rat*et2 b ! numb] ( tee? to numb] ( picks is ! same z 9 ! ,murkl&4 ,p[] back-(f4 ,! ,loom has a p[] back-(f1 z 9 ! ,duckwor?1 a pressure ( ! foot be+ suffici5t to rev]se ! ,loom4 ,sep>ate cams are provid$ = ea* arrangem5t ( boxes1 in/ead ( segm5t cams z 9 ! ,murkl& ,loom4 ,! ,loom is pick & pick4 ,j\rnals are op]at$ f bel[ by cams & treadles4 ,! new ,loom cov]s all ! features dem&$ 9 a p]fect ,+ra9 ,c>pet ,loom1 includ+ ability to make all ! new weaves4 ,illu/ration3 ,p>k] ,pat5t ,drop ,box ,pick]4 ,illu/ration3 ,press$ ,c5tre4 ,loom ,pick] ,co4 ,bidde=d1 ,ma9e1 ,,manufactur]s ,,( ,,raw ,,hide ,,& ,,lea!r ,loom ,pick]s & ,/rapp+1 ,includ+ _m v>ieties ( ,raw ,hide ,pick]s nev] be=e made 9 ?is c\ntry1 su* z ,scoops1 ,c5tre ,scoops1 ,press$ ,c5tres1 ,fea!r$ ,feet ,b[s1 ,,xl ,b[s1 ,all ( :i* are a sup]ior sub/itute = ! ord9>y ,b[ ,pick]4 ,sole ,manufactur]s ( ! ,,p>k] ,,pat5t ,,drop ,,box ,,pick]1 ,:i* is s con/ruct$ t ! bl[ is aga9/ ! edge ( ! hide =m+ ! body ( ! ,pick]4 ,^! ,pick]s h no plug 9 ! ,%uttle ,/rike to be driv5 out or work$ loose1 & !y are gu>ante$ n to break at ! head4 ,also1 ,manufactur]s ( ,,loom ,,h>nesses ,,( ,,sup]ior ,,quality4 ,all ,h>nesses are made ( ! v be/ quality ( tw9e & /ock1 & are c>efully f9i%$4 ,!y are gu>ante$ to possess all ! requirem5ts ( a sup]ior article4 ,an ,illu/rat$ ,catalogue giv+ a detail$ description ( our goods w be mail$ on application4 ,,*as4 ,,a%(f1 ,,manufactur] ,,( ,,re$s ,,& ,,h$dles1 ,& ,deal] 9 ,manufactur]s' ,supplies1 ,nos4 #aia & #aic ,b]ks ,/reet1 ,,philadelphia1 ,,pa4 ,pat5t ,jacqu>d ,ma*9es ,appli$ to any ,/yle or ,make ( ,p[] ,looms1 = any ,k9d ( ,figur$ ,goods4 ,s+le ,lifts1 ,d\ble ,lifts1 ,raise & ,drop ,jacqu>ds1 ,,wit* ,,motions 7,,dobby ,,ma*9es71 ,,s+le ,,& ,,d\ble-,,lift ,,h$dle ,,ma*9es4 ,,jacqu>d ,,c>d-,,/amp+ ,,ma*9es4 ,illu/ration3 ,piano ,/eam-,p[] ,c>d-,/amp+ ,ma*9e1 ,= ,jacqu>d ,c>ds4 ,! spe$ is completely at ! w ( ! op]ator1 & w pun* z high z #agj /rokes p] m9ute4 ,! capacity is ab\t d\ble t ( a foot-p[] ma*9e4 ,two c>ds c be /amp$ at once4 ,illu/ration3 ,dobby ,c>d-,pun*+ ,ma*9e ,?is ma*9e is built = pun*+ ,jacqu>d or ,dobby ,c>ds ( ! /ronge/ pa/ebo>d1 pun*+ ! :ole c>d at "o revolution or /roke4 ,aft] ! keys are set1 any numb] ( duplicates c be pun*$4 ,x is well con/ruct$1 simple1 & a mo/ effective ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,piano ,foot-,tread+ ,c>d-,/amp+ ,ma*9e4 ,i h lately recon/ruct$ ?is ma*9e1 mak+ x m compact by a novel & durable escapem5t ( ! rack4 ,! only successful ma*9e ev] introduc$ = ?is purpose4 ,f> sup]ior to h& lac+ = regul>ity & durability4 ,light-runn+1 simple & durable4 ,c be op]at$ by a small girl or boy4 ,illu/ration3 ,jacqu>d ,c>d-,lac+ ,ma*9e4 ,w lace #hjj to #bjjj c>ds p] h\r4 ,?or\ghly & satisfactorily te/$4 ,weighs ab\t #ejj p\nds4 ,ma*9es n[ 9 op]ation & ready = ! inspection ( manufactur]s4 ,ma*9es plac$ on trial ) responsible p>ties4 ,w4 ,p4 ,,uhl+]1 ,nos4 #ad to #cf ,canal ,/reet1 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 7,take r$ c> on ,?ird ,/reet to ,frank=d ,av5ue & ,canal ,/reet47 ,kn[les' ,new ,+ra9 ,p[] ,c>pet ,loom4 ,design$ to meet a want long felt 9 ! manufacture ( ,+ra9 ,c>pets1 = a loom t %\ld be simple 9 its con/ruction1 easy ( op]ation1 positive 9 its motions1 & c\ld be run at a high rate ( spe$4 ,! ,,kn[les ,,loom ,,works take pleasure 9 call+ ! att5tion ( c>pet manufactur]s to _! new ,,+ra9 ,,c>pet ,,loom1 z "o 9 :i* all ! above features are comb9$ 9 su* a mann] z to make a loom t meets ! requirem5ts m5tion$ above1 & "o t w be highly appreciat$ by manufactur]s ( ^? goods = :i* ! loom is design$4 ,illu/ration ,! foll[+ are among ! important features3 ,! j\rnals on ! loom are controll$ by a cam motion1 or by ! same effici5t *a9 motion t is us$ on our ,wor/$ ,loom in/ead ( ! cam motion1 h&l+ ! w>p ) ! greate/ ease & call+ ei!r j\rnal at w1 :i* _c be done on o!r c>pet looms1 ?us giv+ a wid] range ( patt]n & design ?an on o!r looms2 & %\ld x be necess>y to *ange ! %ad+1 x c be done by *ang+ ! *a91 in/ead ( cutt+ out ! w>p & re-draw+ x4 ,! box me*anism is positive1 & controll$ by a *a9 on ! same %aft z ! j\rnals1 & may be us$ ) ! *a9 alone1 or ) ! *a9 9 comb9ation ) ! c>ds4 ,! motion c be run =w>d or rev]s$ at w1 & any box call$ z desir$1 ?us giv+ a wide range to ! %ad+ facilities ( ! loom1 & any comb9ation ( colors c be produc$ on ?is loom t c be done on any #d #d box loom 9 ! _w4 ,! ,jacqu>d is ( our own manufacture1 & ( ! mo/ improv$ patt]n4 ,great c>e is us$ 9 its con/ruction1 ?us mak+ x a v effici5t "p ( ! loom1 & is driv5 f ! same %aft z ! j\rnals & box motion1 ?us work+ 9 h>mony ) !m4 ,! take-up motion is positive1 & is v sub/antial & accurate1 consi/+ ( flut$ rolls1 & op]at$ by ! usual tra9 ( ge>+1 :ile ! goods are w\nd up on a roll bel[4 ,! let-(f is controll$ by ! t5sion ( ! w>p ov] a rock+ :ip roll1 op]at$ by a cam on ! bottom %aft1 held by a clamp friction1 ge>$ to ! head ( ! beam4 ,two fill+ motions are us$1 "o at ea* end ( ! lay1 ea* work+ indep5d5tly ( ! o!r1 inside ! selv$ge1 s t ! breakage ( ! weft is in/antly detect$1 & ^! motions are s comb9$ ) friction pulley & brake1 t ! loom is /opp$ in/antly 8on ! pick10 & consequ5tly1 :5 fill+ is replac$1 ! loom is ready to />t )\t loss ( "t 9 f9d+ ! pick1 or sett+ ( ,jacqu>d or box motion4 ,! %uttle-sma% protector1 :i* knocks (f ! loom :5 ! %uttle does n box prop]ly1 ?us prev5t+ :at are kn[n z 8%uttle sma%es20 a %uttle *eck1 = eas+ ! =ce ( ! %uttle z x ent]s ! box2 a foot lev]1 = ?r[+ ! lay back :5 ! loom is /opp$1 mak+ x v easy = ! weav]1 & ! spe$ at :i* ! loom c be run1 toge!r ) ! features m5tion$ above1 comb9e to make ?is loom ! be/ 9 ! m>ket = ! purpose = :i* x is design$4 ,correspond5ce solicit$ & circul>s s5t on application4 ,,kn[les ,,loom ,,works1 ,no4 #eg ,jackson ,/reet1 ,worce/]1 ,mass4 ,s*aum ,uhl+]1 #ajcj-ajch ,new ,m>ket ,/41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,,manufactur]s ,,( ,,ribbon1 ,,tape ,,& ,,webb+ ,,looms1 ,,late/ ,,improvem5ts4 ,,new ,,patt]ns4 ,,la!s ,,or ,,battons1 ,= ,ribbons1 ,fr+es1 ,tapes1 ,susp5d] & ,gor+ ,web1 c4 ,we con/ruct our ,la!s on correct me*anical pr9ciples1 use only ! be/ mat]ials1 & produce ,,! ,,be/ ,,la! ,,9 ,,! ,,m>ket4 ,write to u = e/imates3 x w pay y4 ,,jacqu>d ,,ma*9es1 ,) any desir$ numb] ( hooks4 ,appli$ to any manufacture ( loom4 ,h>ness ,ti$ up = all ,figur$ ,weav+4 ,a ,,full ,,l9e ,,( ,,weav]s' ,,supplies3 ,mails1 ,l+oes1 ,h$dles1 ,h>ness ,tw9e1 ,comp>t-,bo>ds1 ,glass ,r+s1 ,%uttle ,eyes1 c4 ,if y contemplate manufactur+ ,figur$ ,goods1 write to u = in=mation1 or s5d u samples ( ! goods y desire to make1 & we w furni% y e/imates = a complete equipm5t1 includ+ ,jacqu>d ,ma*9es1 ) h>ness ti$-up1 designs made1 c>ds cut1 c4 ,fifte5 ye>s' practical exp]i5ce 9 ?is l9e ( bus9ess enables u to give our cu/om]s ! ,,be/ ,,results ) ! ,,lea/ ,,exp5se4 ,s*aum ,uhl+]1 #ajcj-ajch ,new ,m>ket ,/41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,,textile ,,s*ool ,,( ,,! ,,p5nsylvania ,,museum ,,& ,,s*ool ,,( ,,indu/rial ,,art1 ,classrooms3 ,no4 #accf ,spr+ ,g>d5 ,/reet1 ,s4 ,e4 ,cor4 ,broad ,spr+ ,g>d5 ,/s4 ,,! ,,lead+ ,,textile ,,s*ool ,,9 ,,am]ica4 ,f\nd$ 9 co-op]ation ) ! ,tru/ees ( ! ,p5na4 ,museum & ,s*ool ( ,indu/rial ,art1 ,,wm4 ,,platt ,,pepp]1 ,presid5t1 by ! foll[+ memb]s ( ! ,philadelphia ,textile ,association3 ,?omas ,dolan ,co41 ,john ,james ,dobson1 ,william ,wood ,co41 ,william ,arrott1 ,john ,yewdall1 ,fiss1 ,banes1 ,erb5 ,co41 ,cony]s ,button ,co41 ,george ,james ,bromley1 ,seville ,s*(ield1 ,alex&] ,cr[ ,son1 ,james ,smi? ,co41 ,m4 ,a4 ,furbu% ,son1 ,john ,bromley ,sons1 ,?omas ,l4 ,le$om1 ,james ,doak1 ,jr4 ,co41 ,*>les ,sp5c] ,co41 ,h4 ,beck] ,co41 ,&reas ,h>tel1 ,s4 ,b4 ,m4 ,flei%]1 ,grundy ,bros4 ,campion1 ,h4 ,w4 ,butt]wor? ,sons1 ,/ead ,mill]4 ,extract f ,,c\rse ,,( ,,/udy = ,day ,class1 requir+ ?ree ye>s' att5dance at ,s*ool4 ,,fir/ ,,ye>',s ,,c\rse4 ,! h&-loom1 analyz$ & expla9$4 ,elem5t>y pr9ciples ( 8dress+0 w>ps2 beam+ ! same2 fix+ ( h>ness2 draw+-92 re$ & re$ calculations1 etc41 = s+le clo?4 ,a g5]al /udy ( ! nature ( mat]ials us$ 9 weav+ textile fabrics2 explanation ( ! necess>y mat]ials & in/rum5ts us$ by design]s4 ,weaves4--,gr\nd or ,f\ndation ,weaves4 ,i4 ,pla91 or cotton weave1 & fancy figur+ ?r\gh color arrangem5ts 9 w>p & fill+1 = light-weight fabrics4 ,,ii4 ,twill weaves--a1 "o-sid$ twills2 b1 ev5-sid$ twills2 & fancy figur+ ) same ?r\gh color arrangem5ts 9 w>p & fill+4 ,,iii4 ,sat9 weaves--a1 s+le sat9s2 b1 d\ble sat9s2 c1 figur+ 9 s+le sat9s4 ,draft+ ,weaves4 ,lectures1 ) practical examples & rules obs]v$4 ,d]ivative ,weaves4 ,basket1 rib1 & granite weaves2 /eep1 curv$1 brok51 skip1 corkscrew1 & fancy twills2 po9t$ twills & honeycomb weaves2 pique weaves1 & comb9ations ( miscellane\s weaves4 ,/&>d sizes ( cotton wool & wor/$ y>ns1 ) calculations4 ,pick+ out samples ( textile fabrics con/ruct$ on s+le weaves1 ) me?ods & rules employ$ 9 duplication4 ,orig9al weaves = s+le clo?2 complete ord]s = manufactur+4 ,in/rum5tal draw+ 9 elem5t>y ex]cises1 ) in/rum5ts2 con/ruction ( plane figures2 l9e %ad+1 etc4 ,freeh& draw+2 enl>gem5t & r$uction ( designs2 analysis ( plants = ! purpose ( design = textile fabrics4 ,"w 9 color2 lectures on color h>mony4 ,,second ,,ye>',s ,,c\rse4 ,! p[]-looms analyz$ & expla9$1 & practical weav+ & fix+2 a1 ! ,?os4 ,wood roll] loom1 = g+hams1 %irt+s1 cottonades1 dress goods1 etc42 b1 ! ,crompton loom1 & c1 ! ,kn[les loom1 = wor/$ & wool5 fabrics ( e description2 s+le & d\ble beam "w4 ,d\ble ,clo?s--,/udy ( ! be/ me?ods ( comb9+ diff]5t weaves1 z3 ,designs back$ ) weft2 designs back$ ) w>p2 designs back$ ) w>p & weft2 designs = d\ble clo?1 d\ble fac$4 ,calculation3 asc]ta9+ ! co/1 production1 etc41 ( ! diff]5t fabrics4 ,analyses ( s+le clo? 7fancy71 & d\ble clo? fabrics1 & reproduction ) v>i\s *anges1 z reque/$4 ,! ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e ,analyz$ & ,expla9$2 pr9ciples ( con/ruction & me?od ( op]ation ( ! s+le lift ma*9e2 ! v>i\s modifications1 su* z d\ble lift s+le cyl9d]1 d\ble lift d\ble cyl9d]2 8lay+ out0 ( comb]-bo>ds1 & figur+ = v>i\s *anges 9 texture2 ty+-up ( h>ness = s+le clo?4 ,! ,bridesburg ,clipp] ,loom analyz$ & expla9$1 & practical "w on x1 ) special ref]5ce to its use 9 connection ) ! d\ble lift d\ble cyl9d] ,jacqu>d ma*9e = damask table-cov]s1 etc4 ,c>d-/amp+ ma*9es 7,fr5* index7 analyz$ & expla9$1 & actual "w = s+le clo? on ! ma*9e2 explanation (1 & practical "w 9 c>d-lac+4 ,!oretical "w2 design+ pap] ) ref]5ce to ! diff]5t textures ( s+le clo? fabrics4 ,sket*+ ( designs = s+le clo?1 & transf]r+ sket* to ! ,o design+ pap]4 ,%ad+ ( fabrics by ! weave4 ,analysis ( ,jacqu>d "w = actual reproduction2 also = reproduction ) v>i\s 7giv57 *anges4 ,/udy ( special fabrics1 su* z dress trimm+s1 fr+es1 etc4 ,/udy ( processes = textile fabrics be=e & aft] weav+4 ,in/rum5tal draw+ 9 lett]+2 draw+ plans = ma*9]y1 rooms1 mill build+s1 etc4 ,illu/rat+ processes ( weav+4 ,illu/rat+ sectional cuts ( textile fabrics1 etc4 ,freeh& draw+2 sket*+ = ! diff]5t textile fabrics on ,jacqu>d "w4 ,"w 9 color2 lectures 7advanc$ c\rse72 practice 9 ! use ( color4 ,*emi/ry4 ,!ory ( ,*emi/ry applicable to ! textile art4 ,,?ird ,,ye>',s ,,c\rse4 ,! two-ply +ra9 c>pet ma*9e analyz$ & expla9$4 ,! +ra9 c>pet h&-loom1 & ! +ra9 c>pet p[]-loom1 built by ! ,m4 ,a4 ,furbu% ,son ,ma*9e ,co41 analyz$1 expla9$1 & practical "w4 ,c>d-/amp+ ma*9e 7,am]ican index7 analyz$1 expla9$1 & practical "w4 ,ty+-up ( ,jacqu>d h>ness 7,fr5* index7 ma*9es = d\ble clo?2 ?ree & f\r-ply fabrics4 ,advanc$ ,"w = ! ,h>ness ,loom4 ,/udy & practical "w ( cut pile fabrics--velvets1 plu%es1 etc42 t]ry pile fabrics1 ) wires & )\t wires2 t]ry & velvet pile comb9$4 ,a/rakans1 cut1 uncut1 also cut & uncut comb9$4 ,*5ille1 rugs1 curta9s1 etc4 ,gauze fabrics1 pla91 figur$1 & comb9$ ) o!r weaves4 ,design+ = uphol/]y fabrics1 ,jacqu>d gauze1 ,brussels c>pet1 tape/ry c>pet1 d\ble face ,brussels c>pet1 etc4 ,c>d-/amp+ on ! ,fr5* index /amp+ ma*9e = two1 ?ree1 & f\r-ply fabrics4 ,in/rum5tal & freeh& draw+ simil> to second ye>'s c\rse1 b = m difficult objects 9 textile fabrics & ma*9]y4 ,"w 9 color2 application ( !ory ( h>mony to dye+4 ,*emi/ry4 ,!ory & practice ( *emi/ry1 includ+ actual "w 9 ! laboratory & dye+ ( fabrics4 ,t4 ,c4 ,,se>*1 ,*airman ,committee on ,in/ruction ( ! ,s*ool1 & ,pres4 ,phila4 ,textile ,association4 ,! ,circul> ( ! ,committee on ,in/ruction w be mail$ ^u application4 ,,press ,,comm5ts4 ,a ,model ,s*ool ( ,indu/rial ,art4 ,we _c1 at ?is "t1 speak ( its provisions by :i* draw+1 model+1 design+1 etc41 are taught2 b we desire to call p>ticul> att5tion to ! facilities t are (f]$ = a practical in/ruction 9 weav+ & textile design4 ,special c\rses are provid$ = tea*+ design+ = all v>ieties ( textile fabrics1 & its practical application to loom "w4 ,z a complete c\rse 9 its !oretical & practical utility we d n hesitate to say x is )\t an equal 9 ,am]ica4 ,a s*ool ( ?is k9d is ( ! highe/ importance to ! manufactur+ community t c5tres ab\t ,philadelphia4--,bo/on ,j\rnal ( ,comm]ce4 ,an ,am]ican ,textile ,s*ool4 ,! ,textile ,dep>tm5t ( ! ,p5nsylvania ,museum & ,s*ool ( ,indu/rial ,art cle>ly fulfils ! requirem5ts ( a good ,textile ,s*ool1 & ! promise is t x w spe$ily become "o ( ! be/ 9 ! _w1 z x is n[ decid$ly ! mo/ advanc$ 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,pupils are taught design+ = all v>ieties ( textile fabrics1 & to make !m ?or\ghly famili> ) loom "w1 s t !y may be able n only to prep>e _! own designs1 b also to reproduce _! own patt]ns 9 ! clo?4 ,?is in/itution1 by fitt+ "y ,am]icans = exact sci5tific "w 9 ! textile indu/ries1 w conf] a huge b5efit ^u !m & ^u ! nation4--,! ,textile ,record ( ,am]ica4 ,! ,textile ,dep>tm5t ( ! ,s*ool ( ,indu/rial ,art1 #accf ,spr+ ,g>d5 ,/4 ,_m s*ol>s :o h be5 at ?is s*ool 9 =m] ye>s are n[ fill+ responsible & pr(itable positions4--,! ,bullet91 ,phila4 ,?omas ,wood ,co41 ,,fairm\nt ,,ma*9e ,,works1 ,tw5ty-,second & ,wood ,/reets1 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,,p[] ,,looms4 ,illu/ration ,pat5t ,bobb9 ,w9d+ ,ma*9es4 ,pat5t ,cop ,w9d+ ,ma*9es4 ,improv$ ,press] ,beam+ ,ma*9es4 ,pla9 ,beam+ ,ma*9es4 ,improv$ ,reels = ,wool1 ,wor/$1 ,cotton1 ,l951 etc4 ,improv$ ,press] ,spool]s4 ,pla9 ,spool]s4 ,w>p ,splitt+ ,ma*9es4 ,hank ,twi/+ ,ma*9es4 ,illu/ration ,w>p+ ,mills ) ,pat5t ,driv+ ,heads & ,improv$ ,hecks4 ,s+le & ,d\ble ,w>p ,siz+ ,ma*9es4 ,dye+ ,ma*9es = ,w>p & ,piece ,goods4 ,cradle & ,cone ,indigo ,mills4 ,full+ ,mills4 ,cal5d]+ ,ma*9es4 ,self-act+ ,wool ,sc\r+ ,ma*9es4 ,y>n ,bundl+ ,presses4 ,loom ,beam ,trucks4 ,%aft+1 ,hang]s1 ,pulleys1 etc4 ,adju/able ,self-oil+ ,be>+s4 ,pat5t ,friction ,pulleys4 ,improv$ ,cut-(f ,c\pl+4 ,pat5t ,c\pl+s4 ,pat5t ,loose ,pulleys4 ,ge>+4 ,,elevators4 ,plans ,made & ,factories ,completely ,equipp$ ) ,ma*9]y4 ,mill & ,manufactur]s' ,supplies4 ,,sole ,,philadelphia ,,ag5t ,,= ,,/odd>d1 ,,lov]+ ,,co41 ,bo/on1 ,massa*usetts1 & ,brad=d1 ,engl&4 ,import]s ( ,engli% ,wor/$ ,ma*9]y1 & ,hatt]sley ,looms1 = e class ( "w4 ,also1 ,pick]s1 ,temples1 ,loom ,spr+s1 & ,:ite's ,pick] ,lea!r 9 ! side or by ! /rap1 ,torlot9's ,siz+2 also1 all o!r ,engli% ,supplies4 ,,also ,,ag5t ,,= ,,*>les ,l4 ,,ireson1 ,bo/on1 ,massa*usetts4 ,pure ,oak-tann$ ,lea!r ,belt+ & ,f9d+s1 ,wire-sew$ ,belt+1 & mak] ( ,ireson's ,pat5t ,self-adju/+ ,lea!r ,l9k ,belt+4 ,,/$man ,,smi?1 ,lawr5ce1 ,massa*usetts4 ,ma*9i/s & mak]s ( ,ma*9e ,ca/+s1 & e k9d ( ,mill "w4 ,,john ,w4 ,,b>l[1 ,lawr5ce1 ,massa*usetts4 ,b[1 ,drop ,box1 ,engli% ,scoop1 or o!r ,pick]s ( be/ quality4 ,,bann+1 ,,bissell ,,co41 ,new ,york1 ,n4 ,y4 ,porcela9 ,dep>tm5t3--,pot ,eyes1 ,/eps1 ,%uttle ,eyes1 & ,pott]y ,goods ( e description4 ,s+le & ,d\ble ,belt+1 ,belt ,hooks1 ,spr+s1 ,temples1 ,pick] & ,lace ,lea!r 7,c\pes71 ,clean+ ,clo?s1 ,belt ,dress+1 7bo? ,am]ican & ,hepburn ,gale's ,engli%71 ,felt ,clo?1 ,porcela9 ,goods1 ,fibre ,wa%]s1 ,b&+1 ,ge>s1 c41 c41 9 /ock at all times4 ,all ,supplies n 9 /ock c be procur$ at once4 ,,wor/$ ,,mill ,,ma*9]y ,,& ,,supplies ,a ,,specialty4 ,,david ,b4 ,,d\glass1 #bja ,*ur* ,/41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,transcrib]'s notes3 ,9 ! 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