,,the ,,jacquard ,,machine ,analyzed and ,explained3 ,,with ,,an ,,appendix ,,on ,,the ,,preparation ,,of ,,jacquard ,,cards1 ,,and ,,practical ,,hints ,,to ,,learners ,,of ,,jacquard ,,designing4 ,,by ,e4 ,a4 ,,posselt1 ,head ,master1 ,textile ,department1 ,pennsylvania ,museum and ,school of ,industrial ,art1 ,no4 #accf ,spring ,garden ,street4 ,with #bcj ,illustrations4 ,,philadelphia1 ,,pa43 ,,published ,,under ,,the ,,auspices ,,of ,,the ,,school4 #ahhh4 ,copyrighted1 #ahhg1 ,,by ,e4 ,a4 ,,posselt4 ,press of ,dando ,printing and ,publishing ,co41 #cd ,s4 ,third ,st41 ,philadelphia4 ,photo-,engravings by ,the ,levytype ,company1 ,philadelphia4 ,,table ,,of ,,contents4 ,,page4 ,history of the ,jacquard ,machine1 #g ,the ,jacquard ,machine--,general ,arrangement and ,application1 #i ,illustration of the different parts of the ,jacquard ,machine--,method of ,operation1 etc41 #aa ,the ,jacquard ,harness--,the ,comber-boards1 #bj ,tying-up of ,jacquard ,harness1 #bc ,i4--,straight-through ,tie-up1 #bc ,,ii4--,straight-through ,tie-up for ,repeated ,effects1 in one ,repeat of the ,design1 #bi ,,iii4--,straight-through ,tie-up of ,jacquard ,loom1 having ,front ,harness attached1 #ca ,,iv4--,centre ,tie-up1 #cc ,v4--,straight-through and ,point ,tie-ups ,combined1 #ce ,,vi4--,straight-through ,tie-up in ,two ,sections1 #dh ,,vii4--,tying-up a ,jacquard ,harness for ,figuring ,part of the ,design with an ,extra ,warp1 #ea ,,viii4--,straight-through ,tie-up in ,three ,sections1 #ec ,,ix4--,point ,tie-up in ,three ,sections1 #ee ,x4--,combination ,tie-up in ,two ,sections1 #ef ,,xi4--,straight-through ,tie-up in ,four ,sections1 #eg ,,xii4--,tying-up of ,jacquard ,looms with ,compound ,harness attached1 #eh ,,xiii4--,tying-up ,jacquard ,looms for ,gauze ,fabrics1 #fd ,modifications of the ,single ,lift ,jacquard ,machine1 #fg ,i4--,double ,lift ,single ,cylinder ,jacquard ,machine1 #fg ,,ii4--,double ,lift ,double ,cylinder ,jacquard ,machine1 #fi ,,iii4--,substitution of ,tail-cords for ,hooks1 #ga ,tying-up of ,jacquard ,harness for ,two-ply ,ingrain ,carpet1 #gb ,general ,description of the ,construction of the ,fabric1 #gb ,straight-through ,tie-up for ,ingrain ,carpet1 #gd ,point ,tie-up for ,ingrain ,carpet1 #gh ,,appendix4 ,preparing and ,stamping of ,jacquard ,cards1 #he ,dobby ,card ,punching ,machines1 #hf ,piano ,card ,stamping ,machines1 #hf ,stamping of ,cards1 #ia ,repeating ,jacquard ,cards by the ,positive ,action ,repeater1 #ib ,lacing of ,jacquard ,cards1 #ig ,lacing of ,jacquard ,cards by ,hand1 #ig ,lacing of ,jacquard ,cards by ,machine1 #ih ,,practical ,,hints ,,to ,,learners ,,of ,,jacquard ,,designing4 ,squared ,designing ,paper for the different ,textile ,fabrics executed on the ,jacquard ,machine1 #ajc ,practical ,use of the ,heavy ,square in ,designing ,paper1 #aje ,selection of ,designing ,paper for ,single ,cloth1 #aje ,selection of ,designing ,paper for ,double ,cloth1 #ajf ,selection of ,designing ,paper for ,two-ply ,ingrain ,carpet1 #ajf ,selection of the ,proper ,brush for the different ,o ,designing ,papers1 #ajg ,colors used for ,painting ,textile ,designs1 #ajg ,preservation of ,textile ,designs1 #ajg ,sketching of ,designs for ,textile ,fabrics to be executed on the ,jacquard ,machine1 #ajh ,methods of ,setting the ,figures1 #ajh ,size of ,sketch ,required1 #aji ,enlarging and ,reducing ,figures for ,sketches1 #aaj ,transferring of the ,sketch to the ,squared ,designing ,paper1 #aab ,outlining in ,squares1 #aac ,rules for ,outlining in ,squares ,inside or ,outside the ,drawing ,outline1 #aad ,illustration of a ,sketch--,outlining on ,o ,paper--,finished ,design--,fabric ,sample 7,single ,cloth71 #aae ,designs for ,damask ,fabrics to be executed on a ,jacquard ,loom1 with ,compound ,harness attached1 #aaf ,designs for ,two-ply ,ingrain ,carpet1 #aaf ,designs for ,dressgoods ,figured with ,extra ,warp1 #aag ,designs for ,figured ,pile ,fabrics1 #aah ,the ,shading of ,textile ,fabrics by the ,weave1 #aah ,glossary1 #aba ,,preface4 ,very little has been written upon the ,jacquard machine1 and the fabrics produced by it2 and nothing at all has been heretofore published in this country with regard to the machines and systems1 as employed here4 ,greatly assisted by the guidance1 help and advice of ,mr4 ,t4 ,c4 ,search1 ,president of the ,philadelphia ,textile ,association1 and ,vice-,president and ,chairman of the ,committee of ,instruction of the ,pennsylvania ,museum and ,school of ,industrial ,art1 the author gives here the results of his practical experience on this subject1 with a very detailed description of the methods of procedure with the ,jacquard and accompanying machines1 in the different branches of ,textile ,manufacture4 ,e4 ,a4 ,,posselt4 ,philadelphia1 ,pa41 #ahhh4 ,,history ,,of ,,the ,,jacquard ,,machine4 ,the ,jacquard machine was named after ,joseph ,marie ,jacquard4 ,jacquard was born in ,lyons1 ,france1 on the #gth of ,july1 #ageb4 ,his parents were employed in the manufacture of silk fabrics4 ,the first trade ,jacquard learned was book-binding2 type-founding and cutlery following successively4 ,he was #bj years of age when his father died1 leaving him a small house and hand-loom in the village of ,cauzon1 near ,lyons4 ,he commenced to invent different improvements in the line of weaving1 but without other success than accumulating debt1 compelling him to earn the living for himself and family1 first in a plaster quarry at ,bugey1 near ,lyons1 afterwards by working at cutlery1 type-founding and weaving in ,lyons4 ,in #agib he joined the ,revolutionists1 and after his return in the following year he and his son assisted in the defence of ,lyons against the ,army of the ,convention1 but left when his son was killed near him in battle4 ,lyons ,council offered him a room1 for working on improvements for weaving at the 8,palace of the ,fine ,arts10 with the condition that he should instruct scholars free of charge4 ,during his stay there the ,society of ,arts1 in ,london1 offered a reward for a machine for making fishing nets4 ,jacquard succeeded in perfecting it1 but had to travel under protection to ,paris1 where he had to show and explain his machine before the 8,conservatorium of ,arts and ,trades40 ,on the #b;d of ,february1 #ahjd1 ,jacquard received #cjjj francs1 and the gold medal from the ,london ,society1 and also an engagement in the ,conservatorium of ,arts1 in ,paris4 ,here he found opportunity for making improvements on his weaving machine1 by the study of the older inventions of ,bouchon1 ,falcon and ,vancanson4 ,m4 ,bouchon1 in #agbe1 employed a band of pierced paper pressed by a hand-bar against a row of horizontal wires1 so as to push forward those which happened to lie opposite the blank spaces1 and thus bring loops at the lower extremity of vertical wires in connection with a comb-like rack below4 ,m4 ,falcon submitted in #agbh a chain of cards1 and a square prism1 known as the cylinder1 in lieu of the band of paper of ,bouchon4 ,in #agde1 ,jacques de ,vancanson suppressed altogether the cumbrous tail-cards of the draw-loom1 and made the loom completely self-acting by placing the pierced paper or card upon the surface of a large pierced cylinder1 which traveled backwards and forwards at each stroke1 and revolved through a small angle by ratchet work4 ,he also invented the rising and falling griffe1 and thus made a machine very nearly resembling the actual ,jacquard4 ,jacquard returned to ,lyons in the year #ahjd to take charge of the work-house4 ,during his stay at this place he finished his machine4 ,he was an experienced workman1 combining together the best parts of the machines of his predecessors in the same line1 and succeeded as the first person in obtaining an arrangement sufficiently practical to be generally employed4 ,in #ahjf ,napoleon ,buonaparte changed his position1 giving him an annuity of #cjjj francs1 but compelling him to transfer his invention to the city of ,lyons1 as well as any further inventions4 ,until #ahaj ,jacquard had great troubles1 as his machine was not understood by the weavers4 ,so violent was the opposition made to its introduction that he was compelled to leave ,lyons in order to save his life4 ,the ,conseil des ,prudhommes broke up his machines in the public places1 and ,jacquard was delivered over to universal ignominy4 ,but after some years had passed the machine proved to be of the greatest value1 and on the spot where the model was destroyed a statue to ,jacquard now stands4 ,he died ,august #gth1 #ahcd1 in ,quillins1 near ,lyons1 at #hb years of age4 ,at the time of his death over #cj1jjj ,jacquard machines were in operation in his native city4 ,illustration ,the ,jacquard ,machine4--,general ,arrangement and ,application4 ,if a fabric contains a great number of ends of warp bound differently in the filling1 the method of guiding the warp by harness frames is too cumbrous and inefficient2 in such cases it becomes necessary to use the ,jacquard machine for raising the warp-threads separately by means of hook and leash4 ,the hooks as used for raising leash1 mail1 lingo1 and warp-thread1 consist of wires #af to #ag inches long1 with a crook on each end4 ,on the lower crook is fastened the leash by means of the neck-cord4 ,the cords of each leash are threaded through the holes of the comber-board2 the latter are separated from each other according to the texture of the warp in reed4 ,on the harness-cords are adjusted the heddles1 7either twine or wire71 on which are fastened the lingoes as weights4 ,in the mails of the heddles are drawn the warp-threads4 ,now1 from the foregoing explanations1 it will be apparent that by raising the hook in the ,jacquard machine we raise the leash1 and the latter raises every warp-thread throughout the fabric for interlacing with the filling4 ,the next point required to be known is1 which hooks are to be raised1 and which are to be lowered8 ,to regulate this1 a design 7pattern7 is prepared in which the floating of the warp over the filling is indicated4 ,for the warp-threads required to be raised holes are punched in the cards4 ,in these holes the points of the needles extending through the needle-board are pushed by a spring fastened on the rear of each needle4 ,the needles are adjusted in rows of different heights4 ,the arrangements most used are #d1 #h1 and #ab rows high4 ,each row as to height in the machine contains a bar 7knife7 in the griffe4 ,when the griffe is down1 or the machine at rest1 the upper crooks of the hooks are raised about half an inch above the griffe-bars4 ,the needles which control the position of the hooks1 permitting them to rise or compelling them to remain stationary1 are pressed by the springs fastened in the rear towards the cards1 which are moved on a quadrilateral and perforated cylinder4 ,this cylinder performs a movement similar to a pendulum towards the points of the needles4 ,any needle for which a hole was punched in the card will penetrate the cylinder2 consequently1 the corresponding hook will remain in its natural position1 on the crook over the corresponding griffe-bar1 and upon lifting the griffe the hook will be raised4 ,again1 needles for which no holes are punched in the cards will be thrust back by moving the cylinder containing the cards towards the needle-board2 this motion forces back the corresponding hooks1 pushing them away from the griffe-bars above1 and upon raising the griffe they will remain stationary2 hence1 if a blank card were pressed against all the needles of any machine1 the entire number of needles the machine contains would be pushed back1 and none of the hooks would come in contact with the griffe-bars1 and1 consequently1 raising the griffe would produce an empty lift4 ,on the other hand1 using a card having every hole of the cylinder punched1 7or the empty cylinder used71 would lift every needle in the machine4 ,pressing the needles towards the rear compresses the springs2 these will again expand as soon as the cylinder leaves the needle-board4 ,the hooks1 which were left standing in their position over the griffe-bars are caught by the latter at the raising of the griffe4 ,the elevation of these hooks raises the leashes fastened to them1 thus causing the lifted warp-threads to form a shed with those not lifted4 ,jacquard machines are made of different sizes and descriptions1 some having only a few hooks and others a large number4 ,the sizes most often used are #ajj1 #bjj1 #djj1 #fjj1 #ijj1 #abjj hooks4 ,the number or size is always indicated by the number of needles and hooks which it contains1 without counting the reserve rows1 of which there are generally two4 ,these reserve rows are used for various purposes1 such as raising the selvedge2 raising the front harness2 raising the shuttle-boxes on hand-looms2 guiding the take-up motion on hand-looms2 indicating a certain card through ringing a bell on hand-looms1 etc4 ,sometimes a few of the needles and hooks from the reserve are added to the main part of the needles and hooks4 ,for example3 ,take a design in which the ground weave repeats on #ab ends2 working a #djj machine1 we find3 #djj #ab #cc repeats of the weave1 less #d hooks2 ,consequently1 if this ground-weave is repeated all over the width of the fabric1 we must use either3 #cif hooks1 leaving #d hooks more to be added to the two rows already used2 or #djh hooks1 requiring us to call upon the reserve rows for eight extra hooks4 ,hooks which have no leashes adjusted must be taken out of the machine4 ,sometimes two1 three1 or more1 machines are employed on one loom1 and may be worked in different manners4 ,in this country ,jacquard machines1 for power as well as hand-looms1 are made of iron1 whereas in ,europe the machines for hand-looms 7comprising the greater part of the ,jacquard machines in use7 are made of wood2 using the iron ones only for power-looms2 and even yet1 in most cases1 the wooden machines are used for the latter4 ,illustrations of the ,different ,parts of the ,jacquard ,machine4--,method of ,operation1 etc4 ,every ,jacquard machine may be divided into the following parts3 #a4 ,the ,frame and the ,perforated ,board through which the neck-cords are passed4 #b4 ,the ,griffe and necessary attachments for lifting the same4 #c4 ,the ,hooks4 #d4 ,the ,needles4 #e4 ,the ,springs and ,spring ,frame4 #f4 ,the ,needle-board4 #g4 ,the ,cylinder1 ,hammer1 and ,batten4 #h4 ,the ,catches4 #i4 ,the ,cards4 #aj4 ,the ,jacquard ,harness4 ,,the ,,frame4 ,fig4 ,i41,a represents the side view of the 8frame0 of a common #bjj ,jacquard machine by a1 b1 c1 d4 ,the width of the frame in its main part see #f to #g is #i-a_/b inches4 #a-a_/h inches is the width of the iron casting at the places marked #h and #i4 #b inches is the height of casting at the place indicated by #a4 #a-a_/b inches is the height of casting at the place indicated by #c4 #a-c_/d inches is the height of casting at the place indicated by #e4 ,the open part of the frame1 marked #b in drawing1 is #f inches high4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,i4 ,a ,for illustration of the present article a #bjj ,jacquard machine is used1 illustrated on pages #aa-ag by ,figs4 ,i4 to ,,xi41 which contains the same principles of construction as any other size machine4 ,these illustrations are drawn one-fourth of the actual size2 hence1 any measures1 etc41 we have omitted may readily be found by any student4 ,the open part of the frame1 marked #d in drawing1 is #e inches high4 ,hence1 the main height of the frame is as follows3 #a #b inches4 #b #f #c #a-a_/b #d #e #e #a-c_/d ------ #af-a_/d inches main height4 ,,the ,,perforated ,,board4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,ii4 ,the perforated bottom board1 through which the neck-cords are passed1 contains one hole for every hook in the machine1 and is illustrated in ,fig4 ,,ii4 separately4 ,it shows the following measurements3 ,entire width of board #h inches4 length #ab ,thickness #c_/d ,distance of a1 in length of board1 #j4bg inch4 7,see l to b47 holes from each centre1 b1 in width #g_/h 7,see m to w47 first row from the part of the frame illustrated in ,fig4 ,i41 #b-c_/d inches4 rear part of the frame1 #b-a_/b inches4 ,this board is fastened by screws to the frame at places indicated in ,fig4 ,i4 by #aa and #ab4 ,,the ,,plunger4 ,besides the frame1 ,fig4 ,i4 illustrates3 ,under ,i4 the ,jacquard plunger1 #c_/d inch diameter1 for guiding the griffe 7attached to its head7 when raising4 ,to strengthen the steadiness of this latter movement shoulders are attached to the frame at the three places where the plunger slides4 ,height of frame at k1 #b-c_/d inches4 l1 #b m1 #b ,screws1 f1 dotted in drawing1 on head of plunger1 fasten the griffe to it4 ,part ,,iii4 in ,fig4 ,i4 illustrates the attachment for providing the lifting of the plunger in a hand-loom1 likewise the griffe1 etc4 ,this consists of a triangular shaped frame #ad-a_/d inches high1 or less1 according to height of room4 ,this part is fastened to the front part of the frame by bolts at o and p4 ,in the slot at the top1 between r and s1 a wooden cylinder of #c-a_/b inches diameter is fastened to an iron shaft resting in the frame at t4 ,at #ac a leather strap is fastened to this cylinder and to the plunger #ad4 ,it will easily be seen that by turning the wooden cylinder in the direction of the arrows1 #ae1 the plunger will be raised with the griffe fastened to its top4 ,by reversing the action of the cylinder1 the plunger and griffe will return to their previous positions4 ,the action thus described constitutes a 8single lift10 raising and lowering of plunger and griffe for each pick4 ,,the ,,catches4 ,at ,,iv41 ,fig4 ,i41 the 8catches0 for turning the cylinder at the lantern are illustrated4 ,the distance of the centre of the screws which hold the catches to the frame is #d-c_/d inches4 ,between these two catches the cylinder is adjusted to the batten1 and the direction of its turning is regulated by the catch which is brought in contact with the lantern4 ,if the catch1 y1 turns1 the cylinder will turn the card situated on its top towards the needle-board1 and if catch1 z1 is brought into contact with the lantern1 the card hanging below the needle-board will be the next in turn to be pushed towards the needles4 ,the entire length of the catches in the present illustration is #h ins41 allowing #e-a_/d ins4 for the catch itself and #b-c_/d ins4 for the part to which it is fastened4 ,making this catch in two pieces is preferable to the old style of one piece1 because the moment of turning the cylinder can be more easily regulated4 ,,the ,,griffe4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,iii4 ,fig4 ,,iii4 illustrates the top view of the griffe4 ,as mentioned before1 the griffe is fastened to the plunger by means of screws4 ,in the drawing the dark shaded places marked f are the hollow places in the griffe1 through which the screws fasten the latter to the plunger4 ,the griffe1 like the other parts explained1 is made of cast iron1 and the machine is of the following dimensions3 ,length of griffe1 a to b1 #i-c_/d inches4 ,depth a to c1 #f-e_/h ,extension on each side1 e to f1 #a-a_/b ,distance of griffe-bars1 s to s1 #g_/h ,length m to n1 #i-a_/d ,height see ,fig4 ,,iv41 sectional cut of griffe-bars1 #g_/h inch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,iv4 ,,the ,,hook4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,v4 ,fig4 ,v4 represents a hook as used in the present machine1 made of ,no4 #ac-a_/d bright spring wire4 ,height1 a to c1 #af-e_/h inches4 ,height of rester1 b to c1 #f-e_/h inches4 ,,the ,,needle4 ,fig4 ,,vi4 illustrates a needle1 as used in connection with the hook4 ,distance from head to loop1 #i-a_/h inches1 a to c4 ,length of loop1 #a-e_/h inches1 c to d4 #aj-c_/d inches entire length4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,vi4 ,the distance from head to eye 7for passing through the hook7 is regulated according to the row in which the needle belongs4 ,in the present illustration this is1 ,head to eye1 #g inches1 a to b4 ,the eye1 #c_/h inch1 b4 ,eight different positions of the distance of the eye from head will be required by an #h-row machine4 ,the needles are made of ,no4 #ae-a_/b bright spring wire4 ,the loop on the end1 c to d1 permits a pin to be inserted1 see ,fig4 ,,vii41 o1 and also holds the needle in position4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,vii4 ,fig4 ,,vii4 gives a clear understanding of the arrangement of hooks1 needles1 griffe-bars1 springs1 frame for holding the latter1 and the needle-board4 ,this drawing is in accordance with the preceding ones1 executed one-fourth of the actual size1 and represents the sectional cut of one cross-row in the ,jacquard machine containing #h hooks1 7as it is an #h-row deep machine which we explain73 e to e1 #ast hook2 f to f1 #b;d hook2 g to g1 #c;d hook2 h to h1 #dth hook2 i to i1 #eth hook2 k to k1 #fth hook2 l to l1 #gth hook2 m to m1 #hth hook4 ,these hooks are held in their required places by the eyes of the needles see place v at hook #a1 through which the former are passed4 ,the needles rest with their heads in the needle-board1 a to b1 extending outside1 towards the cylinder1 for about #a_/b inch4 ,the rear part of the needle--the loop--is passed between two bars of the spring frame1 n1 p1 and held by the latter firmly1 but with sufficient play for a longitudinal motion for pressing towards their springs4 ,the pin1 o1 is inserted for holding the springs in their places4 ,one pin is required for each vertical row of needles4 ,the part of the spring frame1 r1 n1 p1 s1 unshaded1 is made of cast iron2 the shaded part 7extension7 is constructed of wood4 ,below the upper crook of the hooks1 the black sections represent a sectional cut of the griffe-bars2 v to w indicates the rester for the lower hooks1 which keeps the latter in their required position4 ,a study of this illustration will show that when the heads of the needles1 a-b1 are pushed backwards1 in the direction of arrows1 the hooks are also moved4 ,if the needles are not pushed1 the upper crooks of the hooks will remain in position1 as in drawing1 over the griffe-bar2 and raising the latter will consequently raise every one of these hooks4 ,therefore1 if a blank card is pressed against the #bjh needles of the machine1 all the needles and hooks will be pushed back1 out of the way of contact with the griffe-bars1 thus causing an empty lift when they are raised2 whereas1 by pressing with an empty cylinder1 or with a card1 containing as many holes as the machine has needles1 and so placed that the holes are exactly opposite the needles1 none of them would be moved1 and each hook would remain vertical over its griffe-bar2 and raising the griffe will lift every hook4 ,as mentioned before1 the springs1 u1 are attached to the needles between the needle-frame1 n-p1 and the pin1 o4 ,fig4 ,,vi41 the distance e to f indicates the part of the loop around which the spring is adjusted1 and where it rests against the expansion of the loop4 f1 in ,fig4 ,,vi41 represents the place where pin1 o1 7as shown in ,fig4 ,,vii47 passes through the loop and is fastened to the needle-frame on top and bottom4 ,pressing the needle at the head compresses the spring1 as the latter is securely fastened on one end by the wider part of the loop1 and on the other end by a pin inserted in the loop and fastened to the frame4 ,remove the pressure at the head of the needle1 and the spring will return to its natural position1 pushing the needle into its old place4 ,these springs are made of thin brass wire4 ,it is necessary to keep the needle-eyes in the proper place1 otherwise it would result in bending the hook out of its perpendicular position1 and by lowering the griffe its bars would possibly come in contact with the head of the hook1 crushing the latter1 or doing more damage if not detected at once4 ,each needle or hook1 if worn out1 can be replaced by pulling out the pin1 o1 thus loosening the needle and giving a chance to work the required hook out of the needle-eye4 ,,the ,,batten ,,motion4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,viii4 ,fig4 ,,viii4 represents the batten motion to be attached to the guiding-rod1 see ,no4 #ad1 in ,fig4 ,i41 and the frame1 see ,no4 #af1 in ,fig4 ,i4 ,the batten1 #b1 is connected to a triangular lever by means of lever1 d4 ,another vertical lever connects the lower part of this triangular lever to a projecting bolt1 k1 fixed to the guiding-rod of the griffe4 ,by raising the guiding-rod1 thus raising lever1 k1 in the direction of the arrow1 the batten is thrown outwards1 see direction of arrow below c1 returning again to its former position at the lowering of the griffe4 f indicates the place where the triangular lever is fastened 7movable7 to the projecting bolt1 extending out of the frame4 a indicates the place for the cylinder4 ,part #a of the batten is movable at l in the direction of arrow1 s1 allowing the cylinder to be inserted4 ,part #a is fastened 7after putting the cylinder in at a71 to #b by means of the screw1 n4 ,,the ,,cylinder4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,ix4 ,fig4 ,,ix4 represents the cylinder1 with the lantern for turning the same by means of the catches4 ,the dimensions for the cylinder in the present machine are as follows3 ,height of cylinder1 #b-g_/af inches4 ,width #ac lantern1 #a-a_/b ,average length of spindle1 #b ,this cylinder is carried in the batten1 the latter moving in the groove provided for it under #aj1 ,fig4 ,i4 ,this batten has sufficient vibratory motion to enable it to move the required distance away from the needle-board4 ,after coming in contact with the catch it still moves until the cylinder has performed a complete turn4 ,the cylinder is steadied in the required position by the hammer pressing by the means of a spring towards the lantern from below4 ,,the ,,hammer4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,x4 ,fig4 ,x4 illustrates the hammer as attached to the batten2 a to b1 7equals #c inches in width in our present illustration71 represents the head of the hammer1 forming the foundation for steadying the cylinder in its turning4 ,the hammer is pressed for this purpose towards the cylinder by means of the spring1 s to r4 ,parts h and k guide the hammer in its up and down movements1 and are solid parts of the batten4 ,by turning the cylinder the hammer is pushed down in the direction of the arrow1 t1 thus compressing the spring1 which returns to its normal position after the cylinder has completed its turn1 ready for being advanced towards the needle-board4 ,the following are accurate measurements of this part of the machine3 ,height of head of hammer at a and b1 #a_/d inch4 ,thickness of hammer-head1 e to c1 #c_/h ,height of hammer-head when at rest above the top guiding part1 c to o1 #a-a_/b ,width of the guiding-rod1 c to d1 #a_/b ,thickness of 8top guide10 f to g1 #c_/d 8lower guide10 f to r1 #a_/d ,distance between these guides1 #i ,total height of guiding-rod1 #aj-a_/b ,the shaded part of the drawing above the hammer represents the cylinder1 i1 which has its shaft for turning at m4 ,,the ,,needle-,,board4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xi4 ,as before mentioned1 the heads of the needles are passed through the needle-board4 ,a drawing of this board1 representing the front view1 is shown in ,fig4 ,,xi4 ,the following are the dimensions3 a to c1 #i-a_/b inches4 a to b1 #b-c_/h inches4 ,each side of the prism1 always technically called the cylinder1 has a protruding peg about #a_/b inch in length4 ,when in contact with the needle-board these pegs enter the black holes shown upon either side in drawing4 ,the #bjh needles and holes in the present machine are represented by a small spot for the former with an outside ring for the latter4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xii4 ,the lifting of the griffe1 which in turn also operates the other parts of the ,jacquard head1 as explained before1 is not always produced from above3 very often this lifting is arranged to be done by means of a lever arrangement from below the griffe4 ,this method of working the mechanism in the ,jacquard machine is illustrated by ,fig4 ,,xii41 representing the perspective view of a #djj ,jacquard machine1 7,w4 ,p4 ,uhlinger1 builder74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xiii4 ,fig4 ,,xiii4 represents the same machine adjusted to the loom4 ,on the longer arm of the lever a series of holes are found4 ,these regulate the height of the lift by the vertical rod which provides the required movement4 ,the nearer this rod is adjusted to the ,jacquard head the higher the lift of the ,jacquard harness1 thus forming the shed4 ,,the ,,jacquard ,,cards4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xiv4 ,fig4 ,,xiv4 represents a single ,jacquard card1 as required for the #bjj ,jacquard machine1 #a_/d of its actual size4 ,this shows #bf rows of holes in its width and #h rows in its depth1 #bjh holes4 ,these holes are shown in black1 one for each hook in the machine4 ,besides these a large hole on each side permit the pegs of the cylinder to enter into the needle-board4 ,the cards are interlaced in an endless arrangement4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xv4 ,fig4 ,,xv4 illustrates four cards laced together4 ,the large holes 7marked d in drawing7 are peg holes to receive the pegs1 h1 h1 h1 h1 etc41 of the cylinder1 as shown in ,fig4 ,,ix4 ,these pegs are movable so that any small variations at cutting with different card-stamping machines can be rectified4 ,the paper used for the cards must be of sufficient thickness to resist the wear caused by the needles1 as well as to give steadiness to the cards when resting in the pegs of the cylinder4 ,the cards are interlaced in an endless arrangement2 hence1 one card is brought after the other in rotation towards the needles4 ,the cards only refuse service by not fitting properly on the cylinder1 i4 e41 if the peg holes are too near together or too far apart2 or if the cards are warped1 which is liable to happen in a damp workshop4 ,a careful examination of the cards fitting on the cylinder is absolutely necessary1 otherwise a wrong lifting of the hooks destroying the cards by the pegs punching new holes would result4 ,the cylinder with cards perfectly cut must be set so as to allow the needles to penetrate into the centre of the holes stamped for them in the card4 ,sometimes the cylinder is set too high or too low--too far in front or too far in rear4 ,to ascertain the proper position1 lift the machine and place some paint1 or grease from the machine1 on the heads of the needles4 ,afterwards let the machine 8fall in10 which will bring the cards against the heads of the needles1 producing an impression and indicating the exact position of the needle-heads4 ,the cylinder is always set in its proper position when no marks are made by the entering needles on the margins of the stamped holes and where there are no holes the impression left by the needle head must be equally distant from the surrounding holes4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xvi4 ,to get a clear understanding of this examine ,fig4 ,,xvi4 illustrating six different impressions of the needles4 ,the circle shown with full lines in each of these six illustrations represents the correct position of the circumference of the hole1 and the dotted circles the various errors that may exist4 ,fig4 ,a shows the cylinder set in its proper place1 which is indicated by the impression of the needle in the centre4 ,fig4 ,b shows the cylinder is set too high1 as indicated by the impression of the needle4 ,see arrow4 ,in ,fig4 ,c the cylinder is set too low4 ,in ,fig4 ,d the cylinder is set too far to the left4 ,in ,fig4 ,e the cylinder is set too far to the right4 ,in ,fig4 ,f the cylinder is set too low and too far to the right4 ,in ,fig4 ,g the cylinder is set too low and too far to the left4 ,in ,fig4 ,h the cylinder is set too high and too far to the left4 ,in ,fig4 ,k the cylinder is set too high and too far to the right4 ,if the machine produces wrong lifts of the hooks and the trouble is not found in the setting of the cylinder1 nor in the hooks or needles1 then ascertain if the cylinder is adjusted by means of the lever arrangement1 close enough to the needle-board2 for if it is not1 the hooks will not be pushed far enough from the griffe-bars1 and by raising the latter a wrong shed will be produced4 ,when using a great number of cards in a set they are made to fold into a 8rack40 ,this is done by attaching a wire #a to #a-a_/b inches longer than the cards at the junction of1 say every #abth1 #aeth1 or #bjth cards4 ,see c at ,fig4 ,,xv4 ,the cards fall through a wooden frame1 ,fig4 ,,xvii41 but the wires attached to the cards1 being longer1 can not pass through1 and the cards will remain suspended1 and subsequently fold together in a very compact manner4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xvii4 ,in ,fig4 ,,xvii4 we illustrate #aef cards arranged with wires attached to every twelfth card1 as follows3 between cards #aef and #a1 #ab and #ac1 #bd and #be1 #cf and #cg1 #dh and #di1 #fj and #fa1 #gb and #gc1 #hd and #he1 #if and #ig1 #ajh and #aji1 #abj and #aba1 #acb and #acc1 #add and #ade4 ,at e1 f1 g1 are shown prisms of the size of the cylinder1 by which the cards are guided and regulated in their run towards the cylinder1 7direction of arrow72 i and h represent round rollers1 also placed in rack for guiding cards after leaving the cylinder1 c2 a and b1 the needle-board2 c and d1 the needles of the machine4 ,s represents the wires as inserted in cards for holding them in the frame4 ,,the ,,jacquard ,,harness4 ,to the lower end of the hooks 7c4 in ,fig4 ,v47 the neck-cords are adjusted4 ,the latter are passed separately through one of the corresponding holes of the perforated bottom board 7,fig4 ,,ii47 ,to these neck-cords are fastened the leashes of the ,jacquard harness about #a_/b to #a inch above the frame containing the rods which guide the neck-cords vertically as the hooks are raised and lowered4 ,the different harness-cords are threaded through the comber-board in various ways called 8,tie-ups10 which will be explained later4 ,the ,comber-board and ,methods of ,figuring for it4 ,there are two kinds of comber-boards used upon ,jacquard looms3 #ast4 ,comber-boards made of a solid piece of material1 either wood or porcelain4 #b;d4 ,comber-boards made in strips of either of the materials above named1 and adjusted afterwards in a wooden frame4 ,comber-boards ,made of a ,solid ,piece of ,material4 ,before ordering a comber-board1 it is necessary to know the texture of the fabric in the loom1 and also the number or size of the machine to be used2 for the number of holes per inch in the comber-board is regulated by this4 ,afterwards1 we may1 if we choose1 arrange the number of holes in depth of the comber-board1 according to the number of griffe-bars in the machine1 7guided by the fabric to be made74 ,we may have eight griffe-bars in the machine1 and arrange the comber-board #d1 #f1 #h1 #aj1 #ab rows deep2 or we may have #ab griffe-bars in the machine1 and arrange the comber-board #ab1 #aj1 #h1 #f1 #d rows deep4 ,,rule3 ,the number of holes to one inch in the comber-board must equal the texture of the fabric to one inch in loom4 ,,example3 ,suppose a fabric with a texture in the loom of #ajj threads1 and we are to use a #fjj ,jacquard machine1 with #ab rows4 ,the width of the fabric in the loom is to be #cf inches4 ,required3 ,the number of holes in the width of the comber-board4 ,answer3 #ajj #cf #cfjj holes in the comber-board4 #cfjj #ab #cjj1 the number of holes in width4 ,the width and depth of the comber-board are regulated by the width of the cloth required and by the design to be used4 ,the greater the number of rows in depth the closer they must be2 the same is true of the width4 ,it is necessary to take care not to have the comber-board too deep1 as the consequence would be a bad shed2 furthermore1 we must not have the holes too close together1 as in a high texture this would make trouble in the weaving through the catching of the heddles with the warp1 and also cause useless chafing of the warp-threads and the heddles4 ,the ,changing of ,solid ,comber-boards for ,different ,textures4 ,in ,jacquard work we generally use the same texture1 or as near as possible1 as the loom is tied up for2 but changes are sometimes unavoidable4 ,if we reduce the texture of the fabric in a ,jacquard loom tied-up for a solid comber-board1 we must reduce proportionally the number of hooks and needles used in designing1 and hence the number of heddles used per inch4 ,these heddles will thus be left empty when drawing in the warp4 ,to accomplish this lift the full machine and throw the hooks not to be used from the knives1 lowering in this way every mail which is not to be used4 ,sometimes there may be only one1 two1 three1 or four hooks to be thrown off1 on account of the design4 ,at other times it may be necessary that one-eighth1 or one-fourth1 or even one-half of the whole number shall be dropped for this purpose4 ,for instance1 suppose we have a dressgoods design of #eif threads and a #fjj machine4 ,these four ends left off the #fjj1 if in #f1 #g1 #h1 or more inches in width1 would not affect the fabric nor the cost to any great extent2 hence we may leave out the first or last four needles of the #fjj4 ,suppose we have a texture of #ajj in the comber-board1 to lower to #ff ends per inch4 #ff ends1 or the nearest even part of #ajj 7#ff-b_/c7 is #b_/c of #ajj2 hence1 we only need two-thirds of our machine2 and as the same is supposed to be arranged #ab rows deep1 we need #b_/c of #ab rows1 or #h rows4 ,the four rows thus found necessary to drop may be dropped from the ends1 or alternately1 as follows3 ,every alternate #b rows taken1 #a row missed1 #d times over1 #ab rows4 ,or1 #b rows missed1 #h rows taken1 #b rows missed1 #ab rows4 ,comber-boards made in ,strips and ,adjusted afterwards in a ,frame4 ,by these comber-boards which are used to a great advantage on narrow loom work up to #cf inch fabrics1 we can change the texture for the fabric2 for the strips composing the comber-board may be drawn apart1 thus changing the higher texture to lower2 whereas in a solid comber-board this could only be done by re-tying the harness or changing the number of needles used in the machine4 ,to give a clear understanding ,figs4 ,,xviii41 ,,xix41 ,,xx4 are needed4 ,fig4 ,,xviii4 represents an #h-row deep comber-board1 a1 b1 c1 d1 composed of #aj strips which are set close together4 ,by examining each strip #e cross-rows of holes will be found1 making the whole number of holes #djj4 ,suppose the comber-board as represented in ,fig4 ,,xviii4 is intended for a texture of #ajj ends per inch2 this will give for the width of the fabric 7i1 k1 to l1 m17 #d inches4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xix4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xviii4 ,in ,fig4 ,,xix4 the comber-board is arranged for a texture of half as many ends1 or #ej holes per inch1 and the #aj strips are arranged accordingly2 the empty places between the strips are of same size as the strips themselves1 and the fabric design below the comber-board is arranged to correspond4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xx4 ,fig4 ,,xx4 illustrates the sectional cut of the comber-board used in drawings1 ,figs4 ,,xviii4 and ,,xix41 and the letters indicating the different parts of these figures which correspond4 ,divisions of the ,comber-board4 ,under this heading we classify one repeat of the arrangement of threading harness-cords in the comber-board1 and therefore one repeat of the design of the fabric4 ,we find fabrics in which are used one or more divisions of one system of threading harness-cords in the comber-board2 again1 there are others in which one or more divisions of one system are combined with one or more divisions of another1 or even of two or three other systems4 ,heddles for the ,jacquard ,harness4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxi4 ,after the harness-cords are threaded through the comber-board the heddles are adjusted4 ,of these there are two kinds3 ,a4 ,the twine heddle1 containing the mail for holding the warp-thread4 ,b4 ,the wire heddle1 similar in its construction to the regular heddle1 used in the common harness-loom4 ,these are very little used1 and only in fabrics of a low texture4 ,fig4 ,,xxi4 illustrates a regular twine heddle one-fourth of its actual size4 b represents the mail1 through the eye of which the warp-threads are passed4 a1 the adjustment of the heddle to the harness-cord4 c indicates part of the lingo for weighting the heddle4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxii4 ,fig4 ,,xxii4 illustrates the method observed for combining heddle and harness-cords4 a1 the guide-board1 to get the mails regular in height2 b1 the knot combining heddle and harness-cord4 ,see a in ,fig4 ,,xxi4 c1 the mail4 d1 the lingo4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxiii4 ,fig4 ,,xxiii4 illustrates the average position of the mail in a loom4 a1 breast-beam of the loom4 c1 the warp-beam or guide-beam over which the warp runs on its way towards the harness4 b1 the position of the heddle4 d1 the lingo4 ,the 8,leasing0 of the ,harness4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxiv4 ,this requires a clear conception of the rotation in which the different heddles are threaded1 according to the tie-up employed4 ,two methods are in use3 #ast4 ,the heddle nearest the weaver is the first to be threaded1 and the heddle of the same row in rear of the comber-board is the last4 #b;d4 ,this principle reversed1 thus arranging the leasing from rear to front4 ,the latter method is the one most generally observed4 ,every row in depth of comber-board is leased separately1 and in rotation secured to the lease-twines1 a and b1 in ,fig4 ,,xxiv41 thus forming an uninterrupted line of heddles through the entire ,jacquard harness4 ,through these heddles the warp is afterwards drawn in rotation4 ,,tying-,,up ,,of ,,jacquard ,,harness4 #a4 ,the ,straight-,through ,tie-up4 ,this tie-up contains in its principle the foundation of all the others4 ,three methods are in common use1 which we will now explain4 #ast4 ,the ,jacquard ,harness threaded on the machine in the direction from ,front to ,rear4 ,this tie-up is represented in ,fig4 ,,xxv4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxv4 ,as mentioned in the heading of this article1 the ,jacquard harness1 or the leashes1 are fastened to the machine in rotation from front to rear1 the threading of the comber-board being done from rear to front4 ,the comber-board is in three divisions4 ,the machine used for illustrating is a #djj ,jacquard #h-row machine1 and the comber-board used is also #h rows deep4 ,this method of tying-up of the leashes forms what is technically known as 8open harness40 ,as the drawing is designed to explain a #djj machine1 #h rows drawn in the comber-board1 also #h rows deep1 one row in height of the cylinder will equal one row in depth on the comber-board4 ,in examining the illustration the eye must follow the line connecting the numbers on the neck-cords to the corresponding numbers near the holes on the comber-board4 ,if this be done1 the tie-up will readily explain itself4 ,it will also explain the method of procedure if a machine is used containing a different number of needles and hooks1 and a comber-board having as many rows in depth as there are griffe-bars in the machine4 ,for example1 a #fjj machine1 with #ab griffe-bars1 needs for this tie-up a comber-board #ab rows deep2 and a #bjj machine1 with #h griffe-bars1 requires a comber-board #h rows deep1 etc41 etc4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxvi4 ,the drawing shows a comber-board with #c divisions1 each division furnishing one harness-cord to each neck-cord1 making in all three harness-cords to every neck-cord4 ,the same tie-up will apply should the drawing contain a different number of divisions4 ,the illustration shows only the first and last rows of each division in the comber-board1 and also the first and last rows of neck-cords4 ,the design below the drawing represents a damask fabric to be executed on this tie-up1 requiring the whole number of needles for one repeat of the pattern of #djj threads4 ,in designing for these tie-ups it is necessary to arrange the design to repeat itself in the number of needles that will be used in producing the fabric4 ,the first and last threads must connect with each other1 without interruption1 forming a continuous design over all the divisions4 ,thus we find1 in fabric design of a damask towel1 ,fig4 ,,xxvi41 the repeat 7division7 from ,a to ,b4 ,in the centre of the design marked a1 and the main part of the border marked c1 we find one repeat2 whereas borders b and b repeat #h times4 ,in the fabric illustrated by design1 ,fig4 ,,xxvii41 again a damask towel1 the repeat1 or one division1 is also indicated by ,a to ,b4 ,the centre of the fabric1 a1 repeats twice in one division2 borders b and b repeat four times in the same distance2 whereas the main design of the border indicated by c requires one complete division4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxvii4 #b;d4 ,the ,jacquard ,harness threaded on the machine from ,rear to ,front4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxviii4 ,this is the second method for the straight-through tie-up1 and is illustrated in ,fig4 ,,xxviii4 ,the ,jacquard harness is fastened to the machine1 at the neck-cords1 from rear to front4 ,the threading of the comber-board is also from rear to front4 ,in this method the work of attaching the leashes to the neck-cords is commenced in the rear instead of the front of the machine1 thus giving a different view and arrangement of the tie-up4 ,this disposition of the threads is called a 8sectional harness arrangement40 ,the illustration shows a #djj ,jacquard or #h-row machine1 in connection with an #h-row deep comber-board1 with one row in the comber-board requiring a corresponding row on the face of the cylinder4 ,it will also explain the method of procedure with this tie-up in ,jacquard machines with comber-boards of different sizes4 ,fig4 ,,xxix4 represents the perforated board at the bottom of the machine through which the neck-cords pass1 attaching the leash to the neck-cords4 ,the first row1 containing neck-cords numbered #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1 #f1 #g1 and #h1 and the #ejth row1 containing those numbered #cic1 #cid1 #cie1 #cif1 #cig1 #cih1 #cii1 and #djj1 are the only ones shown in ,fig4 ,,xxviii4 illustrating the tie-up4 ,the comber-board is divided into four sections2 hence1 the drawing1 as represented in ,fig4 ,,xxviii41 calls for a fabric with #afjj ends in width4 #djj ends1 or any number dividing into #djj1 can be used for the repeat of the pattern4 ,the method followed in the illustration may be applied to any size of ,jacquard machine1 and also to any required number of divisions in the comber-board4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxix4 ,in ascertaining the number of hooks or needles for one repeat of the design1 determine accurately if the repeat of the weave employed for binding the ground or the figure divides evenly into this number4 ,for example1 take bottom board1 ,fig4 ,,xxix41 calling for #djj hooks and #djj needles4 ,suppose the ground weave to be an #h-leaf satin1 and the design to repeat once in the #djj hooks4 #djj #h #ej repeats1 showing an equal division ,but suppose a #ab-leaf satin is used2 it is obvious that #ab is not an even factor of #djj1 as the division shows a remainder of #d4 ,to dispose of this remainder two methods are open3 ,first4 ,omit last #d ends and use only #cif hooks1 a multiple of #ab1 giving #cc repeats2 or1 ,second4 ,add #h hooks from the reserve rows1 elsewhere previously alluded to1 thus increasing the number to #djh1 which is also a multiple of #ab1 giving #cd repeats4 #c;d4 ,the ,straight-,through ,tie-up on the ,english ,system4 ,the ,english system1 which is widely used1 has the ,jacquard machine so adjusted upon the loom as to have the cylinder lengthways1 running in the same direction as the comber-board2 or1 what is the same thing1 running in the direction of the width of the fabric4 ,see ,fig4 ,,xxx4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxx4 ,the #h hooks of one cross-row 7one hook from each of the #h griffe-bars7 run in the direction from the cloth beam towards the warp beam4 ,having the same number of rows in depth1 in comber-board as there are griffe-bars1 one may readily see the advantages of this tie-up4 ,the first row in depth of the comber-board contains harness-cords from neck-cords #a to #h4 ,the second row deep of comber-board contains harness-cords from neck-cords #i to #af1 finishing each division on the last 7#beth7 row1 with harness-cords from neck-cords #aic to #bjj4 ,should we have a #fjj machine1 with #ab rows1 the comber-board would also have #ab rows1 as the #fjj machine contains #ab griffe-bars4 ,the first row of the comber-board receives the harness-cords from ,nos4 #a to #ab2 the second row from ,nos4 #ac to #bd1 and so on1 finishing on the last 7#ejth7 row of comber-board with #ehi to #fjj4 ,,ii4 ,straight-,through ,tie-up for ,repeated ,effects1 in one ,repeat of the ,design4 ,this method of arranging the tying-up of the ,jacquard harness is based upon the necessity for producing patterns having a larger number of warp-threads than the ,jacquard used has needles4 ,the principle to be observed is found in producing small effects which repeat themselves in the general design4 ,the number of cords for the leashes depends upon the frequency with which these repeats occur4 ,fabrics with stripe effects offer greater opportunities for reducing the number of hooks and needles than other designs4 ,fig4 ,,xxxi4 illustrates such a design with its tie-up1 using a #djj ,jacquard machine with #h rows4 ,the pattern shows four distinct effects1 as follows3 ,a1 requiring rows #a to #af1 inclusive2 or harness-cords #a to #abh1 inclusive4 ,b1 requiring rows #ag to #ba1 inclusive2 or harness-cords #abi to #afh1 inclusive4 ,c1 requiring rows #bb to #cd2 or harness-cords #afi to #bgb1 inclusive4 ,d1 requiring rows #ce to #ej2 or harness-cords #bgc to #djj1 inclusive4 ,in this fabric we find #b full repeats of the design3 first1 ,e to ,f2 second1 ,e to ,f1 thus requiring two divisions in the comber-board1 as indicated by the vertical line between ,f and ,e4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxi4 ,the next subject to consider is the different arrangement of repeated effects in one division4 ,commence at the left-hand side of the fabric sketch with effect ,a1 which repeats only once in one pattern or one division4 ,the illustration shows two divisions1 and also that each hook of rows #a to #af1 inclusive1 in the first division can be connected with each hook of rows #a to #af1 inclusive1 in the second division1 because these rows produce the same effect in the design1 which repeats itself in these two places4 ,this connection forms what is technically called a leash1 and it will always be found that for every harness-cord a leash contains1 there will be found a repeat in the design to correspond4 ,effect ,b is repeated four times in the design1 or in each division4 ,by having two divisions for the illustration we find that to produce the necessary repeats in the design each hook of rows #ag to #ba1 inclusive1 requires #h harness-cords to each leash4 ,effect ,c repeats twice in one pattern or one division4 ,having two divisions for the illustration1 each hook of row #bb1 including row #cd1 requires #d harness-cords to each leash4 ,effect ,d repeats once in pattern1 once in division4 ,this will give a result similar to ,a1 two divisions1 row #ce1 including row #ej1 with two harness-cords to each leash4 ,this tie-up illustrates the first row of every effect1 and also the last leash1 #djj4 ,adding the number of warp-threads in the full repeat of the pattern1 we have3 ,effect ,a #abh threads4 ,b #dj ,c #ajd ,b #dj ,d #abh ,b #dj ,c #ajd ,b #dj ---- #fbd threads4 ,or1 in other words1 we are producing with a 8straight-through tie-up for repeated effects0 on a #djj ,jacquard machine1 a design1 which would require a #fjj machine on a common straight-through tie-up1 including the two reserve rows1 or #fbd needles2 in other words1 a saving is made of #bbd needles in one full repeat of the pattern4 ,in designing for looms tied up for similar styles1 the repeats of effects must be kept in mind4 ,the general style of every design may be changed1 but the arrangement of the repeated effects cannot be altered without changing the entire ,jacquard harness4 ,,iii4 ,straight-,through ,tie-up of a ,jacquard ,loom having ,front ,harness ,attached4 ,as mentioned in the beginning of this work1 every ,jacquard machine contains two reserve rows1 which may be used for various purposes4 ,one of the purposes to which these rows are frequently put is the enlargement of the design of the fabric by using harness on the front of the comber-board1 technically known as 8front harness40 ,for example1 in damask table-cloths1 we may use the ,jacquard harness for producing the border of the fabric4 ,the centre part may be produced with front harness1 forming a checkerboard1 or some similar effect4 ,this process may be reversed by designing the centre of the table-cloth for the ,jacquard harness1 and the border for the front harness4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxii4 ,a third method is to design part of the centre and part of the border for the ,jacquard harness1 the other parts being designed for the front harness4 ,this tie-up is also used to a great extent in the manufacture of dressgoods1 etc41 where stripe effects produced by the front harness1 alternate with floral or geometrical designs produced by the ,jacquard harness4 ,in ,fig4 ,,xxxiii4 the centre of a table-cloth cover is shown to further illustrate this method of tying-up4 ,one-half of the width of the design is for the ,jacquard harness2 the other half is for the front harness4 ,to produce the required checkerboard effect these front harness are used here in two distinct sets4 ,the #ast set #e harness1 working on the #e-leaf satin warp for face1 alternating with the #b;d set #e harness1 working on the #e-leaf satin filling for face4 ,if only #h front harness should be used for the design1 we should have the #ast set #d harness1 working on the #d harness broken twill warp for face4 #b;d set #d harness1 working on the #d harness broken twill filling for face4 ,set #a to alternate with set #b to form the check4 ,care must be taken that the number of checks formed by the front harness are evenly arranged to the figured part of the fabric4 ,for example1 ,fig4 ,,xxxiii41 in the front harness part of the design shows #e warp checks and #e filling checks in one row1 #aj checks4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxiii4 ,suppose #aj front harness are used and #bj warp-threads allowed for each check2 then #bj #aj #bjj warp-threads1 all used for effects by the front harness4 ,this requires #bjj warp-threads for figure effects to be used by the ,jacquard harness4 ,the repeat of the pattern is therefore #djj warp-threads1 which is produced by straight-through tie-up1 front harness attached1 with #bjj hooks and needles for ,,figure ,,part of the design1 plus #aj hooks and needles for ,,checkerboard ,,part of the fabric taken from the #af hooks and needles of #b reserve rows1 leaves #f hooks and needles for selvedge1 etc4 ,as previously stated1 the front harness may be used for dressgoods fabrics4 ,in this way the design may be enlarged to any required extent4 ,fig4 ,,xxxii4 illustrates this method1 using an #h-row ,jacquard machine1 with #d front harness adjusted1 in common use for the manufacture of dressgoods fabrics1 damasks1 etc4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxiv4 ,fig4 ,,xxxiv4 shows a fabric designed for dressgoods forming an all-over-set pattern4 ,in this design parts ,f and ,f must be executed with the ,jacquard leashes2 parts ,g and ,g can be executed with front harness4 ,for example3 parts ,f and ,f require each #ajj hooks1 the ground part to be woven in #d harness broken twill4 ,we find the answer as to number of warp-threads in the repeat and number of hooks required for weaving as follows3 ,f #ajj threads4 ,g #ajj 7because covering the same distance as ,f in part of the fabric47 ,f #ajj ,g #ajj --- #djj warp threads in repeat4 ,f #ajj hooks4 ,f #ajj --- #bjj hooks for figure4 #d hooks for weaving the ground1 front harness4 --- #bjd hooks required to weave design1 ,fig4 ,,xxxiv41 repeating with #djj warp-threads4 ,,iv4 ,the ,centre ,tie-up4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxv4 ,the centre tie-up1 also called the point tie-up1 has for its purpose the enlargement of the design in fabrics such as table-covers1 dressgoods1 etc4 ,this tie-up resembles in its principle that of a common point-draw on the harness-loom4 ,after drawing from front to rear once straight through the entire set of harness1 draw from rear to front and repeat4 ,the only difference between harness-work and ,jacquard work is in the fact1 that with harness we commence to draw in from the first harness straight through to the last1 ,a to ,b1 and back again1 ,b to ,c2 but with the ,jacquard tie-up on this method this is arranged through the threading of the comber-board1 having a straight-through leasing of the heddles and drawing in of the warp4 ,in ,fig4 ,,xxxv4 there is a clear illustration given of the principle of the centre tie-up on an #h-row comber-board ,a1 ,a1 ,b1 ,b4 ,in laying out the comber board1 it must be divided by the line ,c1 ,c1 into two equal parts1 ,d1 ,c1 and ,c1 ,d4 ,in the part ,a1 ,a1 ,c1 ,c1 of the comber-board1 we commence threading with leash #a at the left-hand rear corner1 running in succession towards the centre1 as indicated by the arrow on this part of the comber-board4 ,in part ,b1 ,b1 ,c1 ,c1 the threading begins in the opposite corner1 to the right-hand in front1 with number #a leash1 threading in rotation the number of leashes from the front towards the rear1 as again indicated on the figure by an arrow4 ,after leasing and threading the harness1 ,no4 #a leash will contain in its two mails the first and the last of the warp-threads1 as indicated in ,fig4 ,,xxxv4 by the numbers1 and the rotation by the arrows1 ,s and ,s4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxvi4 ,fig4 ,,xxxvi4 represents this centre or point tie-up applied to a #bjj ,jacquard machine2 comber-board1 #h rows deep2 two full divisions2 ,a1 ,b1 the first division2 ,b1 ,d1 the second division2 ,c and ,c forming the centre in each division4 ,this machine will1 if tied-up in this manner1 produce a design requiring #djj warp-threads4 ,we must arrange the design for this tie-up so as to repeat forwards and backwards respectively in the centre4 ,such a design will run upwards at a given angle to a definite point1 then it will return by the same angle in an opposite direction until it reaches the base from which it originally started4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxvii4 ,in this manner design1 ,fig4 ,,xxxvii41 is constructed4 ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,c1 ,d1 correspond with the same letters used in ,fig4 ,,xxxvi42 hence1 it will readily explain itself1 as well as the method to be observed in designing for this kind of tie-up4 ,the design runs straight through from ,a to ,c1 and repeats itself backwards from ,c to ,b1 finishing at ,b the first full division4 ,b-,c equal ,a-,c1 ,c-,d ,c-,b1 forming the second division4 ,any changes as to different sizes of machines1 rows deep of comber-board1 or number of divisions1 must be executed upon the principle explained in this article4 ,v4 8,straight-,through0 and 8,point0 ,tie-ups ,combined4 ,a4--,for fabrics requiring for their centres a straight-through tie-up and for their borders a point tie-up1 one-half division of it for each border4 ,these tie-ups are used to a great extent for napkins1 handkerchiefs1 scarfs1 and similar damask fabrics1 in which the centre part of the fabric is worked on the straight-through method2 the borders on each side on the point tie-up1 repeating equally from centre towards the selvedge4 ,in the other two borders to be woven at the beginning and the end of the fabric1 the same principle is observed1 thus producing four corner squares1 only two of which need be designed1 as the other two repeat through the arrangement of the tie-up1 which must repeat equally towards both sides of the border at the connecting places4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxviii4 ,fig4 ,,xxxviii4 illustrates this method of tying-up a #bjj machine1 using #aib hooks and needles1 equal to #bd long rows of a regular #h-row deep machine4 ,the machine is divided into two sections1 as follows3 ,needles #a to #if for the #ast section or centre4 #ig #aib #b;d the border4 #d repeats of centre1 #d x #if #chd ends4 #b repeats of border1 one for each side1 #b x #if #aib ---- #egf ends in fabric1 not including selvedge4 ,illustration ,the drawing represents four divisions for the centre1 hence four harness-cords for each leash4 ,the border1 having only two repeats in the fabric1 will contain only two harness-cords to one leash4 ,in the drawing the first full row of the machine is indicated1 which is equal to the first row deep of every centre division2 containing harness-cords #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1 #f1 #g1 and #h4 ,we also show 7heavy line7 the last centre leash1 ,no4 #if being the last hook of row #ab of the machine4 ,the borders ,a and ,a are from the same design1 but the figure runs in an opposite direction in each one1 as indicated by the arrows in the comber-board above4 ,border ,a commences with harness-cord from leash #aib1 ending with harness-cord from leash #ig1 near the centre design4 ,border ,a commences with harness-cord from leash #ig1 near the centre design1 ending with harness-cord from leash #aib near the selvedge4 ,the great difficulty to be overcome in arranging these patterns for the loom is in the union of the two tie-ups1 the straight-through and the point4 ,as previously stated1 the borders ,a and ,a are made with the point tie-up1 while the remainder of the borders are made with the straight-through tie-up4 ,the combination of these two tie-ups occurs in the corner squares of the border1 and the arrangement must be such as will permit the two sides of the corner patterns to properly unite with the design for the balance of the border4 ,ground plan for above fabric3 ,letters ,a1 ,c1 ,d1 ,b1 ,f1 correspond to same letters as used on the outside of fabric design4 ,s1 ,s1 ,s1 ,s1 ,s1 also correspond for centre division4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xxxix4 ,for the purpose of giving a correct comprehension of the foregoing explanation of tying-up1 but under a different arrangement1 ,fig4 ,,xxxix4 was designed for a #fjj machine1 having the same arrangement of the borders1 viz43 point tie-up1 using one-half division for each side2 the centre a straight tie-up1 but employing only one repeat4 ,the following particulars will explain the entire procedure3 #bjj needles and hooks are used for borders1 point tie-up1 once through1 equals #a_/b division for each border4 ,see letters ,b and ,b on comber-board4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xl4 #djj needles and hooks are used for centre1 straight tie-up1 one repeat4 ,see letter ,c on comber-board4 #bjj ends for each border1 #djj warp-threads4 centre1 #djj ---- #hjj warp-threads4 ,in the ground plan of the fabric ,a is the centre2 ,b1 ,b1 ,b1 ,b1 borders2 ,c1 ,c1 ,c1 ,c1 corners4 ,fig4 ,,xl4 is a fabric design executed on this principle3 a to b1 border2 c to d1 centre2 b to a1 repeat of the first border4 ,straight-,through and ,point ,tie-ups ,combined4 ,b4--,for fabrics requiring for their centres a straight-through tie-up1 and for their border on point tie-up one full division for each border4 ,this arrangement of both foundation tie-ups resembles the preceding4 ,the only difference is found in employing the full division of the centre or point tie-up for each border instead of the half division4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xli4 ,fig4 ,,xli4 illustrates this method of tying-up adjusted to a #fjj ,jacquard machine4 ,the centre of the fabric requires #djj needles and hooks in #f repeats or divisions1 or #djj #f #bdjj warp-threads4 ,the border calls for #bjd needles and hooks1 point tie-up1 one full division for each side1 or #bjd #b x #b #haf warp-threads4 ,the arrangement of margin and selvedge1 as applied on each side1 is explained separately through ground plan of comber-board by fig4 ,,xlii4 ,the margin calls for #h needles and #h hooks in machine1 #f repeats of same for each side1 or #if warp-threads4 ,the selvedge is formed by #b1 #d or #h needles1 7working plain71 and has #bd heddles for each side or #dh selvedge-threads in warp4 ,these selvedge ends may1 if preferred1 be drawn two ends in one heddle4 ,by adding these different systems of threads we find3 ,centre #bdjj warp-threads4 ,borders #haf 7#had if point drawn only once47 ,margin #if ,selvedge #dh ----- #ccfj threads in warp4 ,for the centre part of the fabric1 needle and hook #a to #djj are used4 border #dja #fjd margin #fje #fab ,leaving one complete row of the reserve to use for selvedge1 etc41 if required4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xlii4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xliii4 ,in drawing1 ,fig4 ,,xli41 we only illustrate centre and border of the tie-up1 so as not to confuse the eye by too many lines1 and1 as mentioned at the beginning1 employed ,fig4 ,,xlii4 for illustrating the ground plan for selvedge and margin4 ,in selvedge and margin the harness-cords are indicated by consecutive numbers1 thus3 ,margin1 #a to #dh4 ,selvedge1 #a #bd4 ,when threading margin in comber-board3 #a1 #i1 #ag1 #be1 #cc1 #da1 call for the same leash4 #b1 #aj1 #ah1 #bf1 #cd1 #db1 #c1 #aa1 #ai1 #bg1 #ce1 #dc1 #d1 #ab1 #bj1 #bh1 #cf1 #dd1 #e1 #ac1 #ba1 #bi1 #cg1 #de1 #f1 #ad1 #bb1 #cj1 #ch1 #df1 #g1 #ae1 #bc1 #ca1 #ci1 #dg1 #h1 #af1 #bd1 #cb1 #dj1 #dh1 ,leashes in centre part of fabric1 #a to #djj call for #f harness-cords4 border #dja #fjd #d margin #fje #fab #ab for selvedge if using #d hooks1 #fac #faf #ab ,this tie-up is the one most frequently employed in the manufacture of damask table-covers4 ,not only will drawings and explanations lead to a thorough understanding of the procedure1 but they will also readily show the great variety of textile fabrics to which the principle of this tie-up may be applied4 ,fig4 ,,xliii4 illustrates the margin arranged #h threads for each row1 and #e rows or #dj threads for each side4 ,the selvedge in this drawing is illustrated by one complete row of #ab double threads for each side4 ,the selvedge and margin holes are all represented shaded4 ,the selvedge is marked ,s in addition to the number4 ,the five margin rows are indicated each by figures #a to #h4 ,the nearest row of border is also represented1 being numbered #dja to #dab1 corresponding to ,fig4 ,,xli4 ,this method of using only #h rows of the #ab-row deep comber-board is extensively used in fabrics of a common texture1 employing an #h harness satin for the margin as weave1 which repeats once for each row in comber-board4 ,besides1 a great advantage results from being able to tie-up #h leashes threaded #h rows deep in comber-board to the #h hooks in #a row of the machine1 which the weave calls for4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xliv4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xlv4 ,fig4 ,,xliv4 and ,fig4 ,,xlv4 represent designs for fabrics executed on this method of tying-up4 ,fig4 ,,xliv4--,a to ,b border1 ,c the centre4 ,b ,d margin1 between centre and border4 ,d ,e #a repeat of the centre1 #f times over in width of fabric4 ,fig4 ,,xlv4--,a to ,b border1 ,c its centre4 ,b ,d centre1 #f times over in width of fabric4 ,straight-,through and ,point ,tie-ups ,combined4 ,c4--,for fabrics having the centre for straight-through1 with the border for straight-through and point tie-ups1 7half divisions71 combined4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xlvi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xlvii4 ,this method of tying-up is illustrated in ,fig4 ,,xlvi41 and the fabric produced in ,fig4 ,,xlvii4 ,with this method of tying-up is usually introduced an extra margin for the purpose of separating the ornamentation of the design1 so as to permit of a clearer definition4 ,this is tied-up on #h needles and hooks1 situated between border and centre1 7#bd ends7 shown at margin ,b in the design4 ,the centre of the fabric1 7two divisions only illustrated out of ten actually used71 is tied-up on the straight-through method1 requiring for its working1 harness-cords #a to #bdj4 ,the border has the point tie-up in half sections2 these half sections have a straight-through tie-up design in its centre4 ,harness-cords #bda to #def are used for the straight-through section1 and #deg to #fjj for the point tie-up section4 ,the margin is produced by harness-cords #fja to #fjh1 leaving #af needles and hooks of the machine unemployed1 which may be used for selvedge or other purposes4 ,the drawing of this tie-up and fabric illustrates only the right-hand side4 ,the complete design requires1 in addition to the borders and margins1 #aj divisions or repeats in the centre4 ,the figure shows only two of these repeats and border and margins of one side4 ,the number of ends in the fabric is found as follows3 ,centre1 #aj #bdj #bdjj ends4 ,border1 point1 #d #add #egf #ajjh straight1 #b #baf #dcb ,margin1 between border and centre1 #bd #b #dh #add between border and selvedge1 #dh #b #if ,selvedge1 not indicated in drawing of tie-up1 #dh ---- #cfbj ends in warp4 ,number of harness-cords required for each leash3 ,leashes #a to #bdj #aj cords to #a leash4 #bda #def #b #a #deg #fjj #d #a #fja #fjh #ah #a ,selvedge leashes1 if worked by #d needles and hooks1 #ab cords to #a leash4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xlviii4 ,fig4 ,,xlviii41 on page #db1 illustrates another fabric design to be executed on this method of tie-up4 ,a to ,d ,border ,a to ,b point tie-up with ,c to ,d4 ,b to ,c straight-through part4 ,d to ,e ,centre1 first repeat1 division1 for straight-through4 ,straight-,through and ,point ,tie-ups ,combined4 ,d4--,for fabrics composed of the straight-through tie-up for centre2 the point tie-up1 half divisions1 and the point tie-up1 full divisions1 for borders4 ,this method of tie-up is used to a great extent in the manufacture of damask napkins1 containing in its centre the monogram of hotels1 restaurants1 or private names4 ,this effect is produced by floating the filling4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xlix4 ,in this manner1 we find tie-up1 ,fig4 ,,xlix41 and fabric sample1 ,fig4 ,l41 executed1 using for explanation a #djj ,jacquard machine1 certainly very low texture for these fabrics4 ,in case of a higher texture being necessary1 each effect must be proportionally increased4 ,the machines most generally used for this class of fabrics are of the #ijj-abjj denomination4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,l4 ,taking the present tie-up into consideration1 we find the centre for forming the monogram1 containing #bjj harness-cords tied-up straight-through the borders on each side of the monogram1 is executed on the point tie-up1 one-half section for each side1 taking #ajj needles and hooks1 or harness-cords4 ,the outside border on each side is executed on the point tie-up1 using one complete division of it for each side2 and in addition1 #ajj harness-cords for the working4 ,adding these various divisions of the harness-cords gives the number of warp-threads as follows1 viz43 ,border1 ,n1 #ajj needles on point #bjj threads1 7#aii if omitting the point the second time74 ,m1 #ajj needles on straight #ajj ,centre1 ,l1 #bjj straight #bjj ,border1 ,m1 #ajj return #ajj ,n1 #ajj point #bjj 7#aii if omitting the ----- double point47 #hjj threads4 ,for number of harness cords to each leash we find3 ,needles and hooks1 #a to #ajj #d cords to each leash4 #aja #bjj #b #bja #djj #a cord ,fig4 ,,li4 illustrates a fabric1 damask table-cover1 to be executed on the same principle4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,li4 ,margin a to b and h to i4 small b to c and return c to d ,point4 ,border f g g h main d e e f ,centre #ast division i to k1 straight-through4 ,this fabric can also be executed on the tie-up explained through ,fig4 ,,xli41 as follows3 ,border a to i on point tie-up1 e for centre or point4 ,centre #ast division i to k1 straight-through4 ,straight-,through and ,point ,tie-ups ,combined4 ,e4--,mixed ,tie-up4 ,containing in one repeat of the design the straight-through tie-up and the point tie-up1 one full division1 for the centre2 the point tie-up1 in half divisions1 repeating once through on each side of the fabric1 to make the border4 ,these arrangements of tie-ups are used to a great extent in the manufacture of damask fabrics of every denomination4 ,the principle of using mixed tie-ups1 ,fig4 ,,lii41 is found in the necessity of producing large designs1 containing varied effects1 with a proportionally smaller ,jacquard machine4 ,under whatever management the straight-through and the point tie-ups are combined1 their principle remains undisturbed4 ,every time we arrange a ,jacquard loom on a mixed tie-up1 we must consider that any subsequent design must be arranged with reference to the same principle as the one in use1 otherwise the work must all be rearranged1 which would have to be done even for the smallest change in the number of ends for each effect4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lii4 ,fig4 ,,liii4 ,take for illustration a damask fabric1 ,fig4 ,,liii41 handkerchief1 bureau scarf1 art square1 etc4 ,the details given will make the work quite plain3 ,part of comber-board from ,a to ,b1 or ,d to ,c1 illustrates one-half of the board and procedure of tying-up4 ,the design below also shows only one-half of the fabric4 ,arrow1 ,g1 near comber-board1 and arrow1 ,m1 near fabric1 are placed to indicate the direction in which a repeat is obtained4 ,the fabric will form its centre at ,d1 repeating towards each border and selvedge4 ,this is illustrated in the comber-board by the #a-row deep1 outside of line ,a1 ,d4 ,harness-cords indicated by dotted lines4 ,the threading of this last mentioned row1 as well as the threading of the half division of the point tie-up1 is indicated by arrows ,h and ,k1 forming the centre by means of harness-cords #aic and #aic4 ,the straight-through tie-up part of the fabric is found between ,e and ,f1 containing #ab repeats in the centre1 and also the same number in the lower border4 ,in the comber-board is illustrated this arrangement1 repeating the first row1 containing harness-cords #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1 #f1 #g1 #h1 twelve times1 and the last hole of the third row containing harness-cord ,no4 #bd1 twelve times4 ,on the bottom of the comber-board these #ab repeats are indicated by #ab small arrows between parts ,e to ,f4 ,the first row in the first division of the straight-through tie-up is completely threaded2 the other eleven have only the harness-cord from leash #a1 as indicated2 this is done so as not to confuse the eye with too many lines4 ,the border of the fabric is arranged for harness-cords #be to #aib on the point tie-up1 having one-half division on each side4 ,arrow ,l indicates the right-hand border4 ,the border on the left requires the same harness-cords which are threaded in comber-board from right to left2 hence the borders of the fabric contain the same design repeating from the centre towards the selvedge4 ,at the beginning we stated that the use of mixed tie-ups made it possible to employ a smaller size ,jacquard machine for large designs containing various effects4 ,the following analysis of ,fig4 ,,lii4 shows very clearly how this is done4 ,number of warp-ends in one complete repeat in width of the fabric3 ,border1 right-hand1 #afh threads4 ,centre1 straight-tie1 #bhh point-tie1 #afh #afh straight-tie1 #bhh ,border1 left-hand1 #afh ---- #abdh ends warp in fabric4 ,number of needles required to produce the design3 ,border1 #afh needles4 ,centre on straight-tie1 #bd needles4 ,centre on point-tie1 #afh needles4 #cfj needles required for producing the complete design1 thus saving the difference between #abdh and #cfj1 or #hhh needles2 all of which is accomplished through the use of the mixed tie-up4 ,number of harness-cords required for each leash3 ,leashes #a to #bd contain #bd cords for one repeat of the entire design4 ,leashes #be to #cfj contain #b cords for one repeat of the entire design4 ,it is not always practicable to reduce the effects in a design to the lowest possible number of needles4 ,on account of the changes in styles1 it is best to arrange these tie-ups with a view to giving as much opportunity as possible to the designer4 ,in the present tie-up experience teaches that it will be more advantageous to arrange the straight-through tie-up either for #f divisions to #dh ends each1 or #d divisions to #gb ends each4 #cfj needles1 as figured at the beginning1 require a #djj machine1 or1 counting reserve rows1 #daf needles2 hence we can1 without disadvantage1 increase #cfj needles to #chd or #djh1 which will give a greater scope1 if required1 to make a new design4 ,,vi4 ,the ,straight-,through ,tie-up in ,two ,sections4 ,a4--,using machine and comber-board in two equal sections4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,liv4 ,this tie-up1 ,fig4 ,,liv41 is used on fabrics having two different kinds of warp1 which1 as a rule1 are of different colors4 ,one of these warps is shown working at ,b in the comber-board1 and also at the bottom-board4 ,the other warp employed for the figure effect is shown working at ,a4 ,fabrics that are made on this tie-up can also be made on the common straight-through2 but the work of designing and card stamping will be largely increased4 ,in the illustration all the figure-threads1 and also all the threads used for the weave 7binder-threads7 can be designed without interruption to each other4 ,the breaking off of the figures is thus avoided1 a thing quite impossible where the regular straight-through tie-up is used4 ,the drawing given herewith represents this straight-through tie-up in sections applied to a #bjj ,jacquard machine4 ,the reserve rows are omitted4 ,the machine and the comber-board1 it will be observed1 are divided into two even parts4 ,in one part1 the rear of ,a1 of the comber-board we thread only in the leashes from needles #a to #ajj1 and in the other part1 front of ,b1 from needles #aja to #bjj4 ,hence1 the first row of the comber-board contains leashes #a to #d and #aja to #ajd2 the second row will contain leashes #e to #h and #aje to #ajh2 the third row will contain leashes #i to #ab and #aji to #aab1 and so on1 each division finishing on the last row 7#beth7 with leashes #ig to #ajj and #aig to #bjj4 ,the leasing of the threads is always done by alternately threading the harness-cords of section ,a with section ,b4 ,hence1 first thread of the warp draws in first mail of leash ,no4 #a2 second thread of the warp draws in first mail of leash ,no4 #aja2 third thread of the warp draws in first mail of leash ,no4 #b2 fourth thread of the warp draws in first mail of leash ,no4 #ajb4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lv4 ,fig4 ,,lv41 a fabric design for cloaking for straight-through tie-up in two sections4 ,a1 face warp1 black silk2 ,b1 back warp1 black cotton4 ,b4 ,using two machines and a comber-board having equal sections4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lvi4 ,sometimes two or more machines are employed in producing fabrics having two systems of warps2 each machine working on its own system4 ,in this manner ,fig4 ,,lvi4 is executed1 representing a straight-through tie-up arranged for two ,jacquard machines1 ,s and ,h1 in which the warp is drawn in the ,jacquard harness as follows3 one end from machine ,s1 one end from machine ,h4 ,for explanation two #ajj ,jacquard machines are used for the purpose of simplifying the arrangements of laying out and threading the comber-board4 ,a larger ,jacquard machine for the illustrations would require more leashes1 and the explanation would be more difficult4 ,the comber-board1 a1 b1 c1 d1 is divided into two equal parts1 ,s and ,h4 ,each part containing the harness-cord for one machine only4 ,the drawing of the tie-up is arranged for two divisions1 and also readily explains any tie-up for more divisions4 ,the leasing of the ,jacquard harness1 ,k1 is arranged 7as illustrated in the drawing by leash-rods p and r7 to commence as follows3 #ast end3 harness-cord fastened to ,no4 #a needle of machine1 ,s2 #b;d end to ,no4 #a needle of machine1 ,h2 #c;d end to ,no4 #b needle of machine1 ,s2 #dth end to ,no4 #b needle of machine1 ,h2 #eth end to ,no4 #c needle of machine1 ,s2 #fth end to ,no4 #c needle of machine1 ,h2 #gth end to ,no4 #d needle of machine1 ,s2 #hth end to ,no4 #d needle of machine1 ,h4 ,these eight ends1 forming the first complete row of the comber-board1 will use the first row of both machines2 the second row of the comber-board will use the second row of both machines2 and so on1 until every row of the comber-board1 with corresponding row of the ,jacquard machine1 is taken up4 ,in the drawing we have indicated1 as usual1 besides the first row1 the last row of the machine and the comber-board2 or1 in other words1 we show the threading of ,warp end #aic3 harness-cord fastened to ,no4 #ig needle of harness ,s4 #aid3 #ig ,h4 #aie3 #ih ,s4 #aif3 #ih ,h4 #aig3 #ii ,s4 #aih3 #ii ,h4 #aii3 #ajj ,s4 #bjj3 #ajj ,h4 ,this method of using two ,jacquard machines1 on the principle explained1 is employed on ,jacquard looms for dressgoods figured with an extra warp1 on upholstery goods1 and similar textile fabrics4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lvii4 ,fig4 ,,lvii4 shows a fabric design for a curtain1 to be executed on the straight-through tie-up in two sections4 ,c4--,using one machine and one comber-board3 the machine unequally divided and the comber-board equally divided4 ,to explain1 take the regular upholstery fabric tie-up known as 8petty point10 on a #fjj machine #ab rows in depth4 #fjj #ab #ej #b rows reserve #eb rows in width4 ,we find used-- #a row for selvedge4 #aj rows for binders 7,b74 #da rows for figure 7,a74 -- #eb rows4 #da 7rows figure7 #ab 7needles for one row7 #dib needles to be used for figure4 #aj 7rows binder7 #ab 7needles for one row7 #abj needles to be used for binder4 ,suppose we have four divisions in loom1 hence1 four harness-cords to one leash1 for the figure section1 or #dib #d #aifh ends of warp used for figure4 #aifh threads of figure warp require the same number of threads of ground warp1 which must be divided by #abj1 the number of needles and hooks set apart for it in the machine1 or--as each needle and hook carries one leash--#abj leashes4 #aifh #abj #af repeats2 and #dh leashes1 or four rows in the machine1 must each have #ag harness-cords carrying #haf threads2 and #gb leashes1 or six rows in the machine1 must each have #af harness-cords carrying #aaeb threads1 #aifh4 ,,vii4 ,tying-up a ,jacquard ,harness for ,figuring ,part of the ,design with an ,extra ,warp1 7part for ,two ,sections1 part for ,single74 ,this tie-up 7the character of which is indicated in ,fig4 ,,lviii47 is used for textile fabrics having two distinct warps in part of the fabric1 and a single warp in the remainder1 for ground only4 ,it will readily be seen in the drawing which explains this tie-up that one part of the fabric will have to contain more ends of warp per inch than the other1 as the figuring is done with an extra warp upon the regular ground cloth4 ,the number of ends of ground warp per inch will1 as a general rule1 be the same throughout the fabric4 ,in ,fig4 ,,lviii41 explaining this method of tying-up1 the texture is twice as high in the figure stripe as in the ground part of the fabric4 ,if #dj ends of warp per inch are used for the ground1 #hj ends per inch must be used in the figured part1 ,b to ,c1 ,b to ,c4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lviii4 ,a #bjj machine is used in the illustration1 divided as follows3 #aej needles for the ground over the entire fabric1 ,a to ,b4 #ej needles for the figure effects1 ,b to ,c1 and ,b to ,c4 ,the comber-board1 therefore1 must be arranged accordingly1 7#b-b_/c divisions in drawing executed74 ,the depth of the comber-board is divided into two parts3 ,h1 ,m1 ,n1 ,k1 the first2 ,m1 ,n1 ,o1 ,p1 the second4 ,the first contains leashes fastened to neck-cords attached to needles #aea to #bjj1 or the figure part1 ,f and ,f2 the second contains leashes fastened to neck-cords attached to the needles #a to #aej1 or the ground part for the entire fabric4 ,in the drawing of lines showing the harness-cords of the ,jacquard harness we have only indicated3 ,a4 ,the ground part1 leashes ,nos4 #a1 #b1 #c and #d in rotation1 and ,no4 #aej4 ,this last leash of the ground warp we have indicated by a heavy line4 ,b4 ,for the figure part1 needles #aea to #bjj are used4 ,leashes #aea1 #aeb1 #aec1 #aed1 are indicated in rotation1 also the leash operated by hook #bjj2 this latter one being also lined more distinctly than the others4 ,these explanations readily show how to adapt the tying-up for any textile fabric made upon this principle to any number ,jacquard machine4 ,,viii4 ,the ,straight-,through ,tie-up in ,three ,sections4 ,the straight-through tie-up in three sections1 which is illustrated by drawings1 ,figs4 ,,lix4 and ,,lx41 is largely used in the manufacture of fancy plushes and velvets1 and also in the construction of any other kinds of fabrics in which the face is figured in three systems of warps1 or in two systems of warps for the face and one system for the binder4 ,if it were required1 these fabrics could be made on the straight tie-up1 7,figs4 ,,xxv41 ,,xxviii4 and ,,xxx471 but1 as will readily be seen1 they may be worked to much better advantage1 both for designing and card-stamping1 upon the method shown here4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lix4 ,fig4 ,,lix4 illustrates the method of adjusting the leashes to the neck-cords and threading the comber-board4 ,in the example1 we use for describing the method a #ijj ,jacquard machine1 and follow the ,english system for placing it on the loom4 ,the machine is divided into three sections3 ,section #a1 using hooks and needles #a to #cjj2 ,section #b1 using hooks and needles #cja to #fjj2 ,section #c1 using hooks and needles #fja to #ijj1 leaving the two reserve rows 7generally found in every machine7 out of the illustration4 ,the comber-board is divided into two divisions lengthways1 7but the same method must be observed if more than two divisions are used71 and also into three sections in its depth4 ,the number of sections in the comber-board must correspond to the number of sections in the machine4 ,the threading of the machine is done from the rear towards the front1 and from the left towards the right4 ,the threading of the comber-board is done in a corresponding manner4 #cjj ends for each section in one division1 divided by #d rows deep each section1 making #ge cross-rows4 ,threading of the ,jacquard harness is as follows3 ,no4 #a from ,section #a1 white4 #cja #b1 shaded4 #fja #c1 black4 #b #a1 white4 #cjb #b1 shaded4 #fjb #c1 black4 #c #a1 white4 #cjc #b1 shaded4 #fjc #c1 black4 #d #a1 white4 #cjd #b1 shaded4 #fjd #c4 black4 #e #a1 white4 #cje #b1 shaded4 #fje #c1 black4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lx4 ,and so on2 all of which are shown separately in ,fig4 ,,lx4 ,r and ,r are for the two-lease strings2 ,s1 the successive order of threads2 ,s1 the number of leashes4 ,hooks and needles correspond with drawing ,a4 ,white warp-threads indicate section #a2 shaded warp-threads1 section #b2 black warp-threads1 section #c4 ,the fine lines in ,fig4 ,,lix4 indicate the leashes for the first row deep of the comber-board2 the heavy lines indicate the last leash for each section4 ,fig4 ,,lxi4 illustrates a fabric designed for this tie-up4 ,the various small star effects are arranged on the principle of the #e-leaf satin4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxi4 ,,ix4 ,the ,point ,tie-up in ,three ,sections4 ,this method of tying-up ,jacquard looms shows the point tie-up applied to the three-section arrangement1 on the same principle as the straight-through in paragraph ,,viii4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxii4 ,fig4 ,,lxii4 shows the comber-board divided into three distinct sections1 marked ,i41 ,,ii4 and ,,iii4 ,for explanation1 take a #cjj machine2 allow #ajj needles and hooks for each section1 distributed as follows3 ,section ,i41 #a to #ajj2 ,section ,,ii41 #aja to #bjj2 ,section ,,iii41 #bja to #cjj4 ,each section contains #bjj warp-threads2 and the complete division of three sections1 #fjj threads4 ,the threading of three sections1 illustrated in ,fig4 ,,lx41 is applied to the present tie-up1 as follows3 #ast end1 from section ,i41 attached to ,no4 #a harness-cord4 #b;d ,,ii41 #aja #c;d ,,iii41 #bja #dth ,i41 #b #eth ,,ii41 #ajb #fth ,,iii41 #bjb #gth ,i41 #c #hth ,,ii41 #ajc #ith ,,iii41 #bjc ,and so on4 ,x4 ,combination ,tie-up in ,two ,sections4 78,tie-up ,amalgamate407 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxiii4 ,this tie-up illustrates the point tie-up and the straight-through combined on the two-section system4 ,in ,fig4 ,,lxiii41 a #fjj machine is used for illustration2 the comber-board being divided into two parts3 a1 b1 c1 d1 for ,no4 #a section2 e1 f1 g1 h1 for ,no4 #b section4 ,no4 #a section requires the use of needles and hooks #a to #bjj on the straight-through principle1 four divisions1 taking #hjj warp-threads4 ,no4 #b section requires the use of needles and hooks #bja to #fjj on the point principle1 one division1 taking #hjj warp-threads4 ,the two sections thus use #afjj warp-threads in one repeat4 ,the threading of the harness is as follows3 #a-bja1 #b-bjb1 #c-bjc1 etc41 ending with #bjj-bja4 ,this tie-up1 as well as any changes in the arrangement and the number of needles1 7but not changed in its principle71 is used for double color figures of warps of large design1 with a small all-over figure effect 7,no4 #a section7 for the ground4 ,fig4 ,,lxiv4 is executed on this tie-up4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxiv4 ,,xi4 ,the ,straight-,through ,tie-up in ,four ,sections4 ,fig4 ,,lxv4 shows #chd needles and hooks of the ,jacquard machine1 threaded in four sections in comber-board1 ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d4 ,the threading of comber-board is as follows3 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxv4 #ast1 ,no4 #a leash in section #a4 #b;d1 #b #b4 #c;d1 #c #c4 #dth1 #d #d4 #eth1 #e #a4 #fth1 #f #b4 #gth1 #g #c4 #hth1 #h #d4 #ith1 #i #a4 ,and so on4 ,the threading of the harness is explained below the comber-board1 l and m indicating the leash-strings2 and warp-threads #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 from leashes #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 are indicated as threaded4 #chd times #d divisions make #aecf warp-threads4 ,,xii4 ,tying-up of ,jacquard ,looms with ,compound ,harness attached4 ,tying-up of ,jacquard looms with extra compound harness1 consists in applying two separate systems of harness in the loom4 ,the warp-threads1 after having passed through the ,jacquard harness1 are passed through harness in front4 ,each system of harness performs special duty1 although they are both working the same warp4 ,the ,jacquard harness is used for forming the general design on a large scale2 the second harness divides this pattern into detail1 7twills1 satins1 or any other desired weave74 ,the above tie-up is necessary in the manufacture of rich damasks and similar fabrics1 where a large number of warp-ends is required1 with a correspondingly small number of picks per inch4 ,suppose a damask fabric to contain #cjj ends warp per inch1 with only #ge picks per inch2 or in the proportion of #d to #a4 ,now1 to employ this principle of making four ends warp equal to one filling1 the size of the design would be produced in the fabric1 but the richness1 and also the fineness1 of the face of the fabric would be entirely lost4 ,to prevent this it should be the object of the designer to keep the fine warp-threads entirely on the surface1 to interweave the proportion of ends varying between warp and filling 7as in example above1 four warp-threads7 separately4 ,this principle of textures requires the compound harness to be attached2 or1 in other words1 a machine must be used which is capable of raising not only every alternate thread1 but every third1 fourth1 or eighth thread1 if required1 for the formation of the body of the cloth4 ,fig4 ,,lxvi4 illustrates as plainly as possible the principle of tying-up to do this work1 using a #ajj ,jacquard machine for figuring1 comber-board threaded in three divisions1 four heddles to each leash1 eight compound harnesses4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxvi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxvii4 ,in the tying-up of ,jacquard harness four heddles to one leash are generally used1 as illustrated at c1 in ,fig4 ,,lxvi42 each heddle containing one warp-thread4 ,fig4 ,,lxvii4 shows the arrangement of these four warp-threads1 when using only one heddle to each leash1 but in which the mail contains four eyes4 ,this method is less frequently employed4 ,instead of using a #ajj machine1 as in ,fig4 ,,lxvi41 ,a #bjj machine 7straight-through7 will require #hjj warp-threads for each division4 #cjj #abjj #djj #afjj #fjj #bdjj #ijj #cfjj #abjj #dhjj ,to change the tie-up principle from the straight-through method to the point method1 taking a #abjj machine using four heddles per harness-cord1 #ifjj warp-threads will be required for each division for repeat of pattern4 ,this little example plainly shows the great advantage of this method of tying-up looms for making the finest damasks1 etc4 ,to explain the general method of this tie-up1 commence with ,fig4 ,,lxvi41 which represents a #ajj machine1 three divisions1 four heddles to one leash1 eight compound harnesses4 ,it will not be necessary to explain the threading of the comber-board1 as this is always done on the same plain principles4 ,the four heddles of the first row deep of comber-board emerge below the board at the beginning of the first division1 marked a1 a1 a1 a4 ,the first row deep in comber-board in the first division1 and the last row deep in comber-board in the third division only are shown2 but as these two rows also indicate the first and last rows in the ,jacquard machine1 and as the principle of a1 a1 a1 a1 and b1 b1 b1 b1 has to be observed in every one of these #ge rows deep in width of comber-board ,e to ,e taken1 it will explain the tie-up for the entire number4 ,at c1 in leash a1 four distinct heddles are adjusted2 the same thing is repeated in every one of the eight leashes extended in drawing below the comber-board1 giving in return1 thus3 four heddles and three divisions in a #ajj machine #d #c #ajj1 or #abjj warp-threads for the entire fabric4 ,now1 following the first heddle downwards on leash #a1 a1 c1 marked on drawing1 d1 7indicated by dotted lines71 ,no4 #a harness of the compound harness1 ,h1 is reached4 ,the cross ,x on this harness indicates that the warp-thread drawn through mail fastened on heddle1 d1 must also be drawn through ,no4 #a harness2 the next heddle from the same leash will reach ,no4 #b harness2 and so on until ,no4 #d harness is taken up1 which will finish ,no4 #a harness-cord of ,no4 #a leash in the first division4 ,the second harness-cord1 a1 will use harness #e1 #f1 #g1 #h2 the third harness-cord1 a1 will use harness #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 over again1 as used by a2 the fourth harness-cord1 a1 will use harness #e1 #f1 #g1 #h1 over again1 as used by a4 ,continue in this manner until leash #ajj in the first division on harness #e1 #f1 #g1 #h1 is finished4 ,the second and third divisions strictly repeat the first4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxviii4 ,fig4 ,,lxix4 represents the side elevation for ,fig4 ,,lxvi4 ,in both of these drawings some of the letters and figures correspond1 as follows3 harness-cords a1 a1 a1 a1 in first row deep of comber-board1 ,e1 ,e4 ,h shows compound harness set #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1 #f1 #g1 #h2 figures #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 on top of comber-board represent the first row deep from the front elevation in drawing4 ,new letters3 ,b1 the warp-beam2 ,z1 the lease of the warp formed by rods1 ,z and ,z2 ,o1 the distance between the ,jacquard harness and compound harness set1 ,h4 ,d1 the shed1 as formed in loom when weaving4 ,for illustration of this shed pick ,no4 #g in ,fig4 ,,lxviii41 shows that leashes #b and #c1 or a and a1 are raised at the same time4 ,leashes #a and #d1 or a and a1 are not raised4 ,the principle of forming the shed for picking the shuttle will be more particularly explained later on by ,figs4 ,,lxx4 to ,,lxxv4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxix4 ,at c1 in ,fig4 ,,lxix41 the beginning of the shed is shown2 also the last woven part of the fabric1 c1 c1 c1 which is indicated as passing around the breast-beam1 ,f4 ,l1 ,l1 ,l1 ,l1 indicate leashes #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 extending to the ,jacquard machine towards neck-cords #a1 #b1 #c1 #d4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxx4 ,fig4 ,,lxx4 represents a warp-thread forming the bottom part of a shed4 ,mail1 ,l1 and harness1 ,h1 occupy a position similar to that of mail and harness for warp-thread passing through ,no4 #a heddle of leash a1 and harness #a in ,fig4 ,,lxix4 ,warp-thread passing through leash ,no4 #b1 a1 and harness #b1 in ,fig4 ,,lxix4 is the same4 #d1 a1 #d1 #ac1 a1 #e1 #ae1 a1 #g1 #af1 a1 #h1 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxi4 ,fig4 ,,lxxi4 shows a warp-thread forming part of the top shed by raising the leash2 hence mail1 ,l1 is shown raised4 ,the compound harness is supposed to be resting1 which allows the warp-thread to slide up to the height of the required size of shed4 ,this figure illustrates plainly the following warp-threads in ,fig4 ,,lxix4 ,warp-thread passing through leash ,no4 #e1 a1 and harness #e1 in ,fig4 ,,lxix4 is the same4 #g1 a1 #g1 #h1 a1 #h1 #i1 a1 #a1 #aj1 a1 #b1 #ab1 a1 #d1 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxii4 ,fig4 ,,lxxii4 illustrates the side view of a warp-thread where the hook of the ,jacquard is not raised2 hence1 the mail remains in its resting place4 ,following the warp-thread towards c1 the compound harness is shown raised1 thus forming part of the top of a shed4 ,this figure is designed to show the passage of the warp-thread through mail ,no4 #c of leash a1 and harness ,no4 #c1 in ,fig4 ,,lxix4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxiii4 ,fig4 ,,lxxiii4 illustrates a thread forming part of a lower shed4 ,in the drawing the mail is raised1 but at the same time the heddle of harness is lowered1 compelling the thread to rest on the bottom of the lay4 ,this figure is designed to show warp-thread passing through mail ,no4 #f1 of leash a1 and harness ,no4 #f1 in ,fig4 ,,lxix4 ,fig4 ,,lxxiv4 is a side view of a thread forming the upper part of a shed where mail and harness have been raised the same as in ,fig4 ,,lxix41 the warp-thread passing through mail ,no4 #aa of leash1 a1 and harness ,no4 #c4 ,fig4 ,,lxxv4 illustrates mail not raised and harness down4 ,this change is not necessary in ,fig4 ,,iv42 the warp-thread forming the lower part of the shed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxiv4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxv4 ,in ,figs4 ,,lxx4 to ,,lxxv4 the following letters correspond with the same letters in ,fig4 ,,lxix43 ,z1 nearest lease-rod to ,jacquard harness2 ,d1 shed for picking shuttle2 ,c1 starting point of shed or last woven place of fabric4 ,the ,kind of ,heddles ,required for ,compound ,harness4 ,the eyes of these heddles are much longer than those of common heddles4 ,they must be sufficiently long to allow the six movements illustrated in ,fig4 ,,lxx4 to ,,lxxv41 hence the height of these heddle eyes will influence the height of the shed4 ,working the ,compound ,harness by a ,separate ,machine4 ,for working compound harness a separate small witch-loom is generally used1 thus saving1 to a great extent1 the ,jacquard cards4 ,in this manner the ground may be easily altered without changing any cards1 it being only necessary to change the small set of cards on the witch-loom controlling one repeat of the body weave for the harness4 ,the number of picks for the harness can also be readily adjusted to one change in the ,jacquard figure without disturbing the cards of any consequence4 ,for example3 in manufacturing a damask fabric1 suppose four harness picks make one change of figure in the ,jacquard machine1 and it is necessary to reduce these four picks to one change of figure1 on account of having to use some heavier filling1 or other similar reason2 this alteration can be easily made when using two separate machines4 ,number of ,compound ,harness to ,use4 ,the number of harness used is regulated by the weave required for raising1 and the weave required for lowering4 ,the number of harness may vary to a large degree1 as we may use any suitable weave from the #d-leaf twill up to the #af-leaf satin4 ,as a general rule1 for fine damasks we use the #h-leaf satin1 requiring #h harness4 ,positions of ,compound ,harness ,during ,weaving4 ,there are three distinct positions for the harness3 #ast1 centre2 #b;d1 up2 #c;d1 down4 ,fig4 ,,lxviii41 p4 #fj1 illustrates the #h-leaf satin combining filling and warp up in one design4 ,a few ,different ,weaves for ,working ,compound ,harness4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxvi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxvii4 ,filling ,weave as raised in the upper shed by harness4 ,x ,risers4 ,o ,sinkers4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxviii4 ,warp ,weave to interweave in lower shed through harness4 ,o ,warp on face4 ,x ,warp down4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxix4 ,a4 ,filling up4 ,b4 ,warp up4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxx4 #e-,leaf ,satin4 ,filling4 ,warp4 ,a great variety of combinations of different weaves for this class of textile fabrics exist4 ,it is only necessary to illustrate a few more examples to guide us in finding the principles underlying these changes4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxi4 #g-,leaf ,satin4 ,filling4 ,warp4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxii4 #h-,leaf ,satin4 #h-;,harness ,broken ,twill4 ,filling4 ,warp4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxiii4 #h-,leaf ,satin4 #h-;,harness ,fancy ,twill4 ,filling4 ,warp4 ,fig4 ,,lxxix4 is an example of warp and filling1 binding in a #d-leaf twill4 ,both systems are illustrated for a clear understanding3 ,x ,fig4 ,a1 indicates the raising of the harness for forming the upper part of the shed2 ,o ,fig4 ,b1 indicates the rotation of drawing warp-threads from the upper shed into the lower shed4 ,drawing-in draft is for #d-;harness 7straight74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxiv4 #aj-,leaf ,satin4 #aj-,leaf ,satin4 ,filling4 ,warp4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxv4 #aj-,leaf ,satin4 #e-;,harness ,satin4 ,filling4 ,warp4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxvi4 #ab-;,harness ,satin4 ,filling4 ,warp4 ,,xiii4--,tying-up ,jacquard ,looms for ,gauze ,fabrics4 ,gauze fabrics are produced by a separate system of weaves1 which have the peculiar characteristic of warp-threads not lying parallel to each other4 ,one kind of this warp is called the 8douping warp0 or 8whip-threads20 these are twisted around the ground-warp4 ,the ground-threads1 as well as the whip-threads1 which work together1 must be drawn into one dent4 ,jacquard gauze can be worked in various ways2 for example3 ,one whip-thread against one or more ground-threads4 ,more than one whip-thread against one or more ground-threads4 ,there are two methods of tying-up for gauze fabrics3 #ast4 ,a tie-up in which the doups are worked by one1 two1 three or four shafts in front of the ,jacquard harness4 #b;d4 ,a tie-up in which the gauze figuring is done all over the fabric1 requiring each doup to be arranged for working separately4 ,if the ground-threads and whip-threads are worked from the same ,jacquard machine1 the latter must be divided into two sections3 #ast section for the ground-threads with ground heddles2 #b;d section for the whip-threads with standard heddles4 ,if a fabric contains the gauze in the form of a stripe1 arranged one end ground and one end whip1 the same number of hooks are required for the ground and whip-threads of each section1 and an extra dead harness must be employed2 but if this arrangement of one end ground and one end whip must form figures1 then the ground and whip-threads must form the first section1 and the whip-threads alone the second section4 ,in this case the second section requires only half as many hooks as the first2 and for the same reason1 if we are forming figures with two ground-threads and one whip-thread1 the first section will contain three times as many hooks as the second1 etc4 ,very often two whip-threads are used for twisting1 in which case they must be drawn together in the doup4 ,if several whip and ground-threads are drawn into one reed they usually work independently at first on a regular weave2 following this is the gauze weave formed by a certain number of whip-threads raised either on the left or right of the ground-threads contained in the same dent4 ,this movement brings into operation the second section of the machine containing the harness-cords for the standard heddles4 ,the technical terms for these various combinations are3 single-thread gauze1 double-thread gauze1 triple-thread gauze1 etc4 ,the tie-up most generally used requires two-thirds of the needles for ground heddles and one-third of the needles for standard heddles2 hence1 if using a #bjj machine we find3 #abh needles and hooks for the ground heddles1 and #fd needles and hooks for the standard heddles4 ,see ,fig4 ,,lxxxvii41 p4 #fe4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxvii4 ,the comber-board is divided into two sections4 ,the rear part 7#b_/c7 is used for the ground1 the front part 7#a_/c7 is used for the standard4 ,threading of the ,harness4 ,thread the warp into the ground heddles in the same manner as a common straight-through tie-up4 ,then take the first left-hand thread of the warp and draw it through the doup4 ,the next two warp-threads draw above the first one on the left-hand side of the same doup4 ,these three warp-threads must be drawn together in one dent4 ,after drawing the first pair in one dent1 leave one1 two1 or more dents empty1 according to the fabric4 ,the #dth1 #eth and #fth warp-threads1 also each subsequent pair1 are threaded the same as the first4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxviii4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxxix4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xc4 ,figs4 ,,lxxxviii4 and ,,lxxxix4 are designed for illustrating this point4 ,the lingoes for the doups are about one-half the weight of those used for the ground heddles4 ,fig4 ,,xc4 represents a fancy gauze to be executed in this manner4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xci4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xcii4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xciii4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xciv4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xcv4 ,fig4 ,,xci4 represents the threading of the harness for a gauze fabric3 f1 g1 first and second warp-thread1 over the doup2 h1 i1 third and fourth1 through the doup4 ,figs4 ,,xcii4 and ,,xciii4 illustrate the two movements of the harness in the gauze weave4 ,figs4 ,,xciv4 and ,,xcv4 illustrate the movements of the harness in the regular weave3 a1 b1 represents the comber-board2 c1 the place where the doup is fastened to the dead harness2 d1 e1 the standard heddle2 f1 g1 h1 i1 the mails of the common heddles4 ,the following are the fourteen different movements that might be required in regular weaving4 ,the figures show the number of threads up and the number down1 thus3 #a_/c equal first warp-thread up2 second1 third1 and fourth down4 #a4 #a_/c f up4 #b4 #a_/ab g up4 #c4 #a_/ba h up1 doup raised4 #d4 #a_/c i up1 doup raised4 #e4 #b_/b f and g up4 #f4 #b_/aa g and h up1 doup raised4 #g4 #b_/b h and i up1 doup raised4 ,illustrated by ,fig4 ,,xciii4 #h4 #aa_/aa f and h up1 doup raised4 ,see ,fig4 ,,xcv4 #i4 #aa_/b f and i up1 doup raised4 #aj4 #aa_/aa g and i up1 doup raised4 ,see ,fig4 ,,xciv4 #aa4 #c_/a f1 g1 and h up1 doup raised4 #ab4 #c_/a g1 h1 and i up1 doup raised4 #ac4 #ba_/a f1 g1 and i up1 doup raised4 #ad4 #ab_/a f1 h1 and i up1 doup raised4 ,these fourteen different movements cover all the possible changes in regular weaving4 ,the movement 7#g7 illustrated in ,fig4 #h1 in addition to forming the regular weave1 is also necessary to the formation of the gauze weave4 ,these few explanations clearly show the great variety of effects possible for the designer2 for he can figure with the regular method of weaving1 and can also figure gauze weaving to exchange with regular weaving1 forming a separate design on the fabric4 ,modifications of the ,single ,lift ,jacquard ,machine4 ,having thoroughly described the construction and action of the regular ,jacquard machine1 it now remains to illustrate and explain its modifications4 ,among the most prominent are3 #ast4 ,the ,double ,lift ,single ,cylinder ,jacquard ,machine4 #b;d4 ,the ,double ,lift ,double ,cylinder ,jacquard ,machine4 #c;d4 ,the ,arrangement of ,substituting 8,tail-cords0 in place of the ,hooks1 etc4 ,i4 ,double ,lift ,single ,cylinder ,jacquard ,machine4 ,the principle of this machine consists in raising the warp-threads any number of times in succession without allowing the shed to close1 thus performing the work in nearly half the time1 and with less wear and tear on the warp4 ,fig4 ,,xcvi4 represents the sectional cut of one row across all the griffe-bars4 ,the machine selected for the illustration is of the #ab-row type4 ,jacquard machines of this description have two hooks to one needle2 therefore in the drawing twenty-four hooks are represented4 ,two griffes are provided1 each working every alternate hook4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xcvi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xcvii4 ,in ,fig4 ,,xcvi4 the sectional cut of both griffes is shown1 and in ,fig4 ,,xcvii4 the top view of both griffes2 the first set is represented shaded1 the second black4 ,the former requires hooks ,nos4 #a1 #c1 #e1 #g1 #i1 #aa1 #ac1 #ae1 #ag1 #ai1 #ba1 #bc1 and the latter ,nos4 #b1 #d1 #f1 #h1 #aj1 #ab1 #ad1 #af1 #ah1 #bj1 #bb1 #bd4 ,this arrangement permits either hook to be lifted separately by the griffes1 and a corresponding elevation of the leash4 ,as these griffes work in opposition1 one descends while the other ascends2 this motion prevents the leash from dropping the entire length of the cords1 since the ascending griffe catches it at half distance as the two griffes pass each other4 ,in this operation the shed is never entirely closed1 and a corresponding gain in speed is attained4 ,it will thus be seen that the 8double lift0 single cylinder has great advantages over the ordinary machine4 ,of course1 the warp-thread must make its complete journeys up and down when called for by the design2 but when once up1 it need not be brought down until absolutely required by the pattern4 ,the warp is thus subjected to less friction in working1 and it is possible to use yarns with less twist and obtain good results4 ,the advantages arising from not closing the shed may be seen in the following example of a warp-thread working on an #h-leaf satin1 in which seven picks are up in succession4 ,by the single lift machine this warp-thread must travel seven times up and seven times down1 thus closing the shed absolutely seven times1 with a corresponding wear and tear4 ,the double lift single cylinder arrangement does not require the warp-thread to make these seven complete journeys to the 8race-board0 of the lay1 but instead it makes seven half trips4 ,the saving may be shown by the following analysis3 ,single lift machine1 warp-thread1 seven picks up in succession1 in #h-leaf satin 7warp-face7 requiring fourteen complete movements4 ,double lift single cylinder machine requiring for the same effect3 ,up the first time1 one complete movement4 ,six times down1 half movements1 six complete movements4 ,six times up1 ,down the last time1 one complete movement4 ,or eight complete movements4 ,showing the utility of the two machines to be to each other as #h to #ad1 or #d to #g4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,xcviii4 ,fig4 ,,xcviii4 illustrates the complete double lift single cylinder ,jacquard machine1 as built by ,w4 ,p4 ,uhlinger1 ,philadelphia4 ,in this drawing both griffes are distinctly visible2 also their mode of operation by means of the double-acting lever4 ,this machine has the set of hooks for each griffe-bar protected by a plate of sheet iron1 thus steadying the hooks in their motion1 and enabling smaller crooks to be used for the latter4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,ic4 ,fig4 ,,ic4 represents a double lift single cylinder ,jacquard machine as built by ,thomas ,halton1 ,philadelphia1 attached to a regular broad loom1 7,knowles or ,crompton71 and tied-up for upholstery work4 ,the griffe-bars in this ,jacquard machine are constructed of such height that when lifted they never rise above the crooks of the hooks1 which are thrown out of operation by the descent of the other griffe4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,c4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,ci4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cii4 ,fig4 ,c41 hooks at rest4 ,fig4 ,,ci41 hooks #a and #c1 etc41 raised1 #b and #d1 etc41 at rest4 ,fig4 ,,cii41 hooks #b and #d1 etc41 raised1 #a and #c1 etc41 at rest4 ,,ii4 ,double ,lift ,double ,cylinder ,jacquard ,machine4 ,the principle of this machine consists in the combination of two separate ,jacquard machines4 ,two hooks 7one of each machine7 are connected to one leash of the ,jacquard harness1 and as each machine is operated alternately1 a high speed is attained1 which is the purpose of the machine4 ,for example3 #adj picks per minute 7speed of loom7 only requires #gj picks per minute from each part of the double lift double cylinder4 ,in ,fig4 ,,ciii4 this is clearly illustrated4 ,it shows two #ab-row machines 7,e and ,f7 combined1 thus giving #bd griffe-bars for the complete double machine1 as the griffes work within each other4 ,as explained for double lift single cylinder1 every alternate bar is connected with a separate griffe1 and these two griffes are worked alternately on the same double lever arrangement4 ,o to ,p and ,o to ,p1 represent the two needle-boards2 ,p to ,r and ,p to ,r1 represent the two corresponding needle-boxes4 ,these double lift double cylinder ,jacquard machines are mostly used in the manufacture of turkey-red goods and similar table-cover fabrics1 using tie-ups similar to the one illustrated below1 which is a combination of the straight-through and point tie-up1 which may be alluded to once more by way of explanation in this particular case4 ,the illustration represents a double lift double cylinder machine containing two #fjj machines1 which equals an ordinary #fjj machine for the tie-up4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,ciii4 ,this tie-up contains six divisions for the centre straight-through1 and requiring leashes #a to #djj from each part of the double machine4 ,leashes #a1 #ab1 and #djj 7heavy lines7 only are illustrated in drawing4 ,the borders are constructed on the point tie-up1 and require leashes #dja to #fjd from each part of the double machine4 ,the first and last leash only are illustrated4 ,the margins between border and selvedge are worked by leashes #fje to #fab4 ,centre and border are #ab rows deep1 arranged in the comber-board2 the margin #h rows deep1 on account of working it 7as is generally done7 on an #h-leaf satin4 ,one complete row in machine1 7both parts71 as well as in the comber-board1 7illustrated on each side in drawing71 is left for the selvedge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,civ4 ,fig4 ,,civ4 represents this machine 7built by ,thomas ,halton1 ,philadelphia17 attached to a ,clipper loom4 ,in this drawing both sets of cards 7one to contain the even numbers1 and the other the uneven numbers7 are clearly visible1 and also the double lever arrangement for working every cylinder alternately4 ,as the cylinders run at only half speed1 the wear on the cards is reduced to a minimum4 ,,iii4 ,the ,substitution of ,tail-cords for ,hooks4 ,jacquard machines having this construction are generally employed in the manufacture of ingrain carpets4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cv4 ,fig4 ,,cv4 represents the sectional cut of one row of needles across the machine2 also the necessary boards for guiding and operating the tail-cords4 ,this machine consists of two divisions 7,i4 and ,,ii417 which are worked alternately for the common #b-ply ingrain carpet4 ,a1 represents the top board1 to which the tail-cords are fastened around a wire by knot shown below the boards4 ,each board is #f-a_/d by #c_/d inches1 with a distance of #a-a_/d inches between them4 ,b1 represents the 8,lifter-boards0 7trap-boards7 which are shown in top view in the special article devoted to the manufacture of ingrain carpets4 7,fig4 ,,cix41 p4 #gd47 ,its dimensions are #f-a_/d inches by #a inch4 ,distance from top-boards to lifter-boards1 #i-a_/d inches4 ,c to ,d1 needle-board4 ,arrow1 ,s1 the direction of working the cylinder towards the needles4 ,f to ,g1 the needle-box with its pin for holding the needles in position4 ,each needle is connected to two tail-cords1 as indicated in the drawing1 one for figure and one for ground4 ,h and ,l are the two guide-boards for the tail-cords4 ,distance from ,b to ,h1 #g-a_/d inches1 from ,h to ,l1 #h-a_/b inches4 ,dimensions of each guide-board1 #f-a_/d inches by #c_/d inch4 ,each tail-cord is weighted by a small lead weight1 as shown at ,k in drawing4 ,in this machine the springs for the needles are omitted1 and a board large enough to cover the ends of all the needles1 substituted4 ,see arrow1 ,p4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cvi4 ,fig4 ,,cvi4 illustrates the rear view of the needle-box1 ,b1 and the board for pressing the needles1 ,a4 ,c shows the hanger1 which is attached 7movable7 to the top of the machine4 ,see ,e1 in ,fig4 ,,cv4 ,tying-up of ,jacquard ,harness for ,two-ply ,ingrain ,carpets4 ,with a ,general ,description of the ,working of the ,loom and ,construction of the ,fabric4 ,two-ply ,ingrain ,carpet is an article composed of two fabrics1 produced on the regular double-cloth system4 ,these two fabrics are arranged in the loom to form figures by a simple exchanging of positions4 ,a great variety of colors may be put into each of these separate fabrics1 7ground and figure71 and the most elaborate designs may be used4 ,on every part of the carpet where these two fabrics do not exchange1 each works on the plain weave4 ,the exchanging of these two fabrics binds both into one1 thus forming the ingrain carpet4 ,in the manufacture of this carpet four sets of warp-threads1 and also four sets of filling-threads are generally employed2 but1 if occasionally more or less should be used1 in warp or in filling1 or in both1 in the same fabric1 the principle of exchanging is still observed4 ,if employing four sets in warp and filling1 two sets of each are used for forming the figure1 the other two sets forming the ground1 each of the figure-threads having as its mate one of the ground-threads4 ,these threads are so arranged that when a figure-thread appears upon the face of the fabric its mate appears upon the back1 and when the figure-thread appears upon the back the corresponding ground-thread appears upon the face4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cvii4 ,to give a clearer understanding of the foregoing1 a sectional cut of an ,ingrain carpet fabric is given in ,fig4 ,,cvii4 ,suppose the filling-threads for the figure to be3 ,,red1 indicated by heavy shaded circles2 picks #b1 #f1 #aj1 #ad1 #ah1 #bb1 #bf1 #cj4 ,,black1 indicated by full black circles2 picks #d1 #h1 #ab1 #af1 #bj1 #bd1 #bh1 #cb4 ,and the filling-threads for the ground to be3 ,,white1 indicated by empty circles2 picks #a1 #e1 #i1 #ac1 #ag1 #ba1 #be1 #bi4 ,,olive1 indicated by light shaded circles2 picks #c1 #g1 #aa1 #ae1 #ai1 #bc1 #bg1 #ca4 ,a careful examination of the drawing shows that the white threads mate with the red1 and the black threads with the olive1 so that when one of these colors shows upon the face the mating color will show upon the back1 and vice versa4 ,as a general rule1 these warp-threads are of the same color as the weft-threads2 hence1 every filling pick1 appearing either on face or back1 is bound by a warp-thread of the same color4 ,the sectional cut represents four distinct effects with #cb picks1 thus allowing #h picks for the illustration of each part4 #ast effect1 picks #a to #h1 is ground up 7white and olive74 #b;d #i to #af1 is figure up 7red and black74 #c;d #ag to #bd1 is #ast effect in 8shot about0 7red and olive up74 #dth #be to #cb1 is #b;d 7white and black up74 ,two methods of tying-up ,jacquard harness are in use3 #ast1 the 8straight-through0 principle1 7known to the trade as 8cross-point074 #b;d1 the 8point0 method1 7known to the trade as 8centre-tie074 ,i4 ,the ,straight-,through ,tie-up for ,ingrain ,carpets4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cviii4 ,fig4 ,,cviii41 p4 #gc1 represents the arrangement of the neck-cords with the heddles 7through the harness-cords74 ,there are two separate bottom boards in the machine1 marked ,a1 ,b1 for ground and figure2 also two corresponding lifter-boards1 which are illustrated separately by ,fig4 ,,cix4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cix4 ,the four journals are clearly illustrated by ,fig4 ,,cx4 7each journal carrying its own set of threads74 ,the first thread in the loom 7left side7 will be found on the first journal4 second third third second fourth fourth ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cx4 ,this arrangement of threads1 #a1 #c1 #b1 #d1 is repeated throughout the fabric4 ,for an example1 a carpet is shown termed 8extra fine10 executed on #bf 8designs10 requiring #bf #h1 or #bjh small squares for warp on the designing paper4 ,ingrain carpets are generally woven one yard wide1 having in this width two repeats or divisions2 hence the number of harness-cords for the present example is as follows3 #bf #h #bjh #b1 for ground and figure2 #daf #b1 for two divisions1 #hcb harness-cords 7or #daf leashes7 required for tying-up4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cxi4 ,fig4 ,,cxi4 illustrates the adjustment of heddle 7mail7 and lingo through the journal1 ,j1 by means of the heavy knot at b4 ,this knot must be large enough not to pass through the hole of the journal4 ,the average measures for the present drawing are as follows3 ,lingo1 f to g #i inches4 ,heddle1 e to f #h c to d #aj ,mail1 d to e #f_/h ,height of journal1 b to c #a-a_/h inches4 ,connecting cord of heddle to harness-cord1 a to b #f inches4 ,this drawing will explain the principle of raising the warp either by means of the harness-board1 7arrow #a71 or by means of the knot through raising the journal1 7arrow #b74 ,if raised by means of the harness-cord1 the connecting heddle slides upwards in the hole provided for it in the journal2 or the journal takes the place of a common comber-board2 but if the journal be used for raising1 the knot1 b1 will rise with it1 carrying the heddle the same as before1 the harness-cords becoming slack by this movement4 ,in ,fig4 ,,cviii41 p4 #gc1 the journals are arranged as follows3 #ast journal1 for ground1 ,white1 #ast set of threads4 ,for repeat1 #b;d ,olive1 #c;d -- #bch times #c;d for figure1 ,red1 #b;d over4 #dth ,black1 #dth ,in the same drawing are also represented the first eight heddles 7in both divisions71 as connected with harness-cords #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1 #f1 #g1 #h2 also the last four heddles of the rear journal 7fourth7 connected with their corresponding cords1 #djd1 #djh1 #dab1 #daf4 ,the first row 7#a to #h7 illustrates the principle of tying-up the harness and the leasing of the heddles2 whereas the four heddles in the rear 7#djd1 #djh1 #dab1 and #daf7 show the practical commencement of the tie-up1 i4 e41 four neck-cords in succession to four heddles of the journal4 ,a represents bottom-board in the machine where the neck-cords for the ground harness-cords pass through4 ,b1 the bottom-board in the machine where the neck-cords for the figure harness-cords pass through4 ,in ,fig4 ,,cix41 showing the lifter-boards1 ,a is also used for the ground1 and ,b for the figure2 #bf rows of the machine are shown for explaining the tie-up for a texture known as 8extra fine10 or equal to #hcb heddles in the width of loom 7one yard74 ,jacquard machines for two-ply ingrain carpets are usually constructed with #cd rows1 and #cc-a_/b of these are used4 #cc-a_/b rows have #cc-a_/b #h1 or #bfh needles1 which carry #ajgb threads1 the number actually used in what is termed a full 8extra super40 ,should only #cj of these be used1 having #cj #h1 or #bdj needles1 and carrying #ifj threads for warp1 the carpet is termed 8super20 and if #be rows1 with #be #h #bjj needles are used1 carrying #hjj threads1 the product is called 8fine0 ingrain1 and represents about the lowest grade of these carpets4 ,it frequently happens that we find slight variations in the number of threads used in the various grades of carpet named4 ,the pattern may require such a change1 or economy in production may induce the maker to use a smaller number2 or1 as is done in a few instances1 a manufacturer may always make his 8extra super0 on #cb rows2 but all such changes are done by a corresponding depreciation of the value of the fabric1 as compared with a full 8extra super0 of #cc-a_/b rows4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cxii4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cxiv4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cxiii4 ,fig4 ,,cix41 p4 #gd1 illustrates the full #cd rows1 and indicates #bf rows used for illustration of tie-up 7#d rows empty on each side74 ,in power-looms the raising of the different journals is generally accomplished by an arrangement of cams1 but in hand-looms it is done by the lifter-boards4 ,in ,fig4 ,,cix4 the four large holes on each side are made for this purpose1 and the wires for raising the journals are shown by heavy lines in tie-up in ,fig4 ,,cviii41 p4 #gc4 ,fig4 ,,cxii4 represents the process of lifting the journals1 as follows3 ,first pick raises lifter-board ,a1 journal #d2 second pick raises lifter-board ,b1 journal #a2 third pick raises lifter-board ,a1 journal #c2 fourth pick raises lifter-board ,b1 journal #b4 ,the two positions of the four 8tails0 in these four picks are illustrated as follows3 ,fig4 ,,cxiii41 hole in cylinder2 ,,cxiv41 no hole in cylinder4 ,the black spots represent the knots1 either as caught in the slot or passing free in the hole4 ,looms tied-up on the foregoing principles have but one operation of the ,jacquard needles for every two picks of the loom1 there being an operation of the ground and figure lifter-boards in succession between the operations of the ,jacquard needles4 ,each ,jacquard needle controls two tails1 one connected with the warp for the figure1 7red and black in our example71 and the other to the warp for the ground1 7olive and white in our example74 ,the drawing of the lifter-boards shows the slots for catching the tails in opposite directions from each other2 hence1 when the figuring tail of the needle is adjusted so as to be lifted by the figure lifter-board1 the ground-tail will not be acted on by the ground lifter-board when it rises4 ,to give a clear understanding of the foregoing explanations1 a detailed statement of the operations of the loom necessary in weaving a piece of the fabric is shown in sectional cut ,fig4 ,,cvii41 as follows3 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ,pick4 ,lift-board ,lift-board -- for for ,journal ,color4 figure4 ground4 lifts4 ,threads down4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- #a ,white4 ,rises1 ,at rest4 ,white to bind ,red1 black1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #b ,red4 ,at rest4 ,lifts white ,red4 ,black for and olive4 binding on back4 #c ,olive4 ,rises1 ,at rest4 ,olive to bind ,red1 black1 no lift4 on face4 white4 #d ,black4 ,at rest4 ,lifts white ,black4 ,red for binding and olive4 on back4 #e ,white4 ,rises1 ,at rest4 ,white to bind ,red1 black1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #f ,red4 ,at rest4 ,lifts white ,red4 ,black for and olive4 binding on back4 #g ,olive4 ,rises1 ,at rest4 ,olive to bind ,red1 black1 no lift4 on face4 white4 #h ,black4 ,at rest4 ,lifts white ,black4 ,red for binding and olive4 on back4 #i ,white4 ,lifts red ,at rest4 ,white4 ,olive for and black4 binding on back4 #aj ,red4 ,at rest4 ,rises1 ,red to bind ,black1 white1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #aa ,olive4 ,lifts red ,at rest4 ,olive4 ,white for and black4 binding on back4 #ab ,black4 ,at rest4 ,rises1 ,black to bind ,red1 white1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #ac ,white4 ,lifts red ,at rest4 ,white4 ,olive for and black4 binding on back4 #ad ,red4 ,at rest4 ,rises1 ,red to bind ,black1 white1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #ae ,olive4 ,lifts red ,at rest4 ,olive4 ,white for and black4 binding on back4 #af ,black4 ,at rest4 ,rises1 ,black to bind ,red1 white1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #ag ,white4 ,lifts red ,at rest4 ,white4 ,olive to bind and black4 on back4 #ah ,red4 ,at rest4 ,rises1 ,red to bind ,black1 white1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #ai ,olive4 ,rises1 ,at rest4 ,olive to bind ,white1 red1 no lift4 on face4 black4 #bj ,black4 ,at rest4 ,lifts white ,black4 ,red to bind and olive4 on back4 #ba ,white4 ,lifts red ,at rest4 ,white4 ,olive to bind and black4 on back4 #bb ,red4 ,at rest4 ,rises1 ,red to bind ,black1 white1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #bc ,olive4 ,rises1 ,at rest ,olive to bind ,white1 red1 no lift4 on face4 black4 #bd ,black4 ,at rest4 ,lifts white ,black4 ,red to bind and olive4 on back4 #be ,white4 ,rises1 ,at rest4 ,white to bind ,olive1 red1 no lift4 on face4 black4 #bf ,red4 ,at rest4 ,lifts white ,red4 ,black to bind and olive4 on back4 #bg ,olive4 ,lifts red ,at rest4 ,olive4 ,white to bind and black4 on back4 #bh ,black4 ,at rest4 ,rises1 ,black to bind ,red1 white1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 #bi ,white4 ,rises1 ,at rest4 ,white to bind ,olive1 red1 no lift4 on face4 black4 #cj ,red4 ,at rest4 ,lifts white ,red4 ,black to bind and olive4 on back4 #ca ,olive4 ,lifts red ,at rest4 ,olive4 ,white to bind and black4 on back4 #cb ,black4 ,at rest4 ,rises1 ,black to bind ,red1 white1 no lift4 on face4 olive4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cxv4 ,fig4 ,,cxv41 p4 #gf1 illustrates a fabric design for an ingrain carpet1 straight-through tie-up1 a and b forming one repeat1 7or one division71 equal to one-half yard4 ,,ii4 ,the ,point ,tie-up for ,ingrain ,carpets4 ,this method of tying-up is based upon the straight-through tie-up principle1 arranged as follows3 ,the design in the fabric repeats from its centre equally towards each selvedge4 ,illustration3 ,centre4 _/ _/ _/ _/ ,selvedge4 ,selvedge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cxvi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cxvii4 ,figs4 ,,cxvi4 and ,,cxvii4 illustrate two fabric designs1 a to b1 the width of the fabric or one yard on the loom2 c is the centre or point of the design2 b to d is the repeat of a to c1 where the widths are sewed together4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cxviii4 ,fig4 ,,cviii41 p4 #gc1 shows the first and last rows1 also the two centre rows of the journals threaded to the neck-cords 7tail-cords7 of the machine4 ,each cord is numbered to correspond4 a1 b1 c1 d1 represent the cords for lifting the journals1 on the same principle as in the straight-through tie-up4 ,in power-looms this is done by a cam arrangement4 ,fig4 ,,cxix41 p4 #hj1 is designed to give a thorough understanding of the adjustment of harness-cords to heddles1 as well as the leasing of the latter4 ,the numbers selected for indicating the different cords correspond with those used in ,fig4 ,,cxviii4 ,journal #a white1 ground4 #b olive1 #c red1 figure4 #d black1 ,arrangement of threading2 a to b1 #ea times repeated1 #djh cords4 ,the last row in the half width illustrated separately by c to d1 which is the same as a to b1 #h #daf --- ,s forms the centre or point2 e to f1 first row of each journal1 near centre1 7repeat of centre-cord for ground or figure omitted2 see o on journals #b and #d71 #f g to h1 #ej times repeated1 #djj i to k1 last row1 same as g to h1 #h #dad --- --- ,total number of cords used1 #hcj ,the following is the method employed in drawing for indicating the different colors of warp-threads3 ,blank for white1 ground4 ,light shaded for olive1 ,heavy shaded for red1 figure4 ,black for black1 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cxix4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cxx4 ,the beauty of an ingrain carpet consists in its color combination4 ,in hand-looms the common batten is used in connection with a shuttle which is somewhat curved1 a form most suitable to being thrown by the hand4 ,the batten naturally falls towards the weaver by its own gravity1 being usually worked a little out of a vertical line for that purpose4 ,in this method the shed forms its own shuttle-race1 or bed upon which the shuttle slides4 ,when two or more shuttles are used1 they are laid on the woven piece of carpet before the weaver1 and he selects them as required4 ,if a solid shuttle-race is connected to the batten1 the warp-threads are pressed down upon it and the shuttle slides upon the ridge of the warp-threads4 ,in this case the 8fly-shuttle0 is used1 and also the 8drop-box20 the latter being operated by some of the reserve needles of the ,jacquard machine4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cxxi4 ,fig4 ,,cxx4 shows a shuttle-box mechanism for carpet hand-looms4 ,as already stated1 the four journals in power-looms are lifted by cams or similar contrivances4 ,in ,fig4 ,,cxxi4 7representing the ,crompton carpet loom7 this cam arrangement is clearly visible2 the cams are situated above the journals1 the latter being lifted by means of the journal rods from above4 ,the loom carries four shuttle-boxes at each end of the lathe2 any one of the series at either end can be brought into line with the shuttle-race at any pick4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cxxii4 ,in some looms the journals are also lifted from below1 as shown in ,fig4 ,,cxxii41 representing the 8,knowles0 carpet loom4 ,in this the journals are controlled by a chain motion1 instead of a cam1 operating either journal at will1 which can not be done on a loom where the journals are actuated by cams4 ,this permits the shading of a fabric to be changed without cutting out the warp and re-drawing it4 ,the box mechanism 7four boxes on each side of the lathe7 is positive1 and controlled by a chain on the same shaft as the journals1 and may be used with the chain alone1 or with the chain in combination with the cards4 ,the motion can be run forward or reversed at will1 and any box called as desired4 ,before closing this article1 it is necessary to mention the method of working the loom built with a stationary 8shuttle-raceway0 and an independent 8comb10 the latter having a reciprocating movement for beating up the filling1 and a rising and falling motion for bringing the comb up into1 and taking it out of the warp2 it has also yielding racks and filling forks1 and a cam so timed for operating the forks1 that the latter will seize the filling and carry it forward in front of the range of the said comb4 ,fig4 ,,cxxiii4 illustrates the side view of the comb and its lay2 also the parts necessary to be shown for working the same3 k1 the independent lay2 d1 the comb2 c1 the reed2 a1 its lathe2 b1 the shuttle-race2 c1 the breast beam of loom2 oval ring1 d1 e1 g1 represents the motion of the comb in beating up the filling2 e1 r1 upper shed of the warp2 e1 t1 lower shed of the warp2 x1 the shed2 h1 stud fixed to the loom framing2 h1 i1 to i1 k1 toggle connection of lay to stud1 h2 i1 m1 to m1 l1 crank connected at i to the toggles2 l1 crank shaft2 p1 o1 lever for raising and lowering the lay1 k2 n1 its fulcrum2 s1 grooved cam for working lever1 p1 o4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cxxiii4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cxxiv4 ,the vibratory movement of the comb-lay for beating up the filling is produced by the action of the cranks upon the toggle connections2 and the upward and downward movement of the lay1 to produce the entrance of the comb into the warp and its withdrawal therefrom1 is produced by the action of the lever upon the grooved cam4 ,the comb1 d1 is constructed of teeth1 which are secured together by a bolt passing through them1 and which have their bases of dovetail form to enable them to be secured between a dovetail lip1 on the lay1 and a dovetail clamping plate1 secured to the lay by bolts4 ,fig4 ,,cxxiv4 illustrates the method of lifting the journals from below4 ,the journals1 of which there are four1 are arranged to work in upright fixed guides on the loom framing1 d1 e1 f1 g1 and are operated by treadles1 which are arranged in pairs below1 each journal being connected with one pair of treadles by two rods at its opposite ends4 ,these treadles are operated by cams for each pair of treadles and each journal4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,cxxv4 ,fig4 ,,cxxv4 represents the top view of the 8fixed guides0 containing the journals4 ,this loom is provided with ten shuttle-boxes1 7seven for the revolver1 three upright71 for each side1 and built by the ,furbush ,machine ,company1 being a combination of their older carpet loom known as the 8,murkland10 and the 8,duckworth ,carpet ,loom40 ,illustration ,,appendix4 ,preparing and ,stamping of ,jacquard ,cards4 ,preparing4 ,the ,jacquard card consists of a strong1 durable pasteboard cut to the exact size of the cylinder4 ,for cutting or preparing the cards to the required size1 a table is used with the different sizes of cards indicated on its surface4 ,a sharp steel blade is adjusted to the side of the table4 ,a heavy knife of sufficient length1 and containing a second steel blade1 is secured to a projecting bolt on the rear end of the table1 allowing enough play for the knife to be easily raised and lowered4 ,the blade of the knife works close against the blade fastened to the table2 and when pressed down both blades rest close together4 ,on the front side of the table is a long groove in which is a guide1 fastened by a bolt and nut4 ,this guide can be set to suit any of the marks on the table1 thus regulating the size of the cards to be cut4 ,two measures 7the length and the width7 are required to be cut for each set of cards3 #ast4 ,the sheets of pasteboard are required to be trimmed one way in sufficient number for the length of the cards4 #b;d4 ,each trimmed sheet is afterwards separated in strips of the required width4 ,card ,stamping4 ,the oldest method for stamping cards1 now only occasionally used1 consists of two perforated steel plates1 between which the blank cards are placed1 and the required holes stamped by hand by means of punches4 ,it will easily be seen that this method is not up to the present advanced times1 hence various machines have been introduced for arranging the punches4 ,among those most generally used are3 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,i4--,dobby ,card ,punching ,machines4 ,,ii4--,piano ,card ,stamping ,machines4 ,,iii4--,repeating ,machines4 ,i4 ,dobby ,card ,punching ,machines4 ,these machines1 illustrated by ,fig4 #a41 7,w4 ,p4 ,uhlinger1 builder71 are used for stamping cards for the smaller ,jacquard machines1 technically termed 8,dobbies40 ,they are of very compact build1 and operated by belt-power4 ,the whole card is punched at one revolution or stroke4 ,the rack on top of the machine holds the design4 ,the punches for peg-holes and lace-holes are immovable1 while the key punches act independently1 at the will of the operator4 ,jacquard cards for these machines are generally composed of the strongest pasteboard1 and require a very strongly constructed machine4 ,,ii4 ,piano ,card ,stamping ,machines4 ,these are operated in two ways1 by the belt or foot-power4 ,there are two kinds of each3 8,french index0 and 8,american index40 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #i4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa4 ,figs4 #b to #aa are drawn to one-half the actual size of the 8,uhlinger ,card ,stamping ,machine40 ,figs4 #ac1 #af1 #ag1 #ah1 #ai are drawn to one-quarter the actual size of the 8,royle ,card ,stamping ,machine40 ,figs4 #b and #ac 7,e1 ,f1 ,g1 ,h17 represent the top view of the head 7cover taken off71 the twelve holes for holding the punches for one row1 also the large hole for holding the peg1 ,p4 ,each punch works vertically1 and is guided by a key for stamping the hole4 ,fig4 #ad illustrates the punch 7actual size7 as used in the 8,royle0 machine3 a to b #c_/d inch2 b to c #b-g_/h inches2 #g_/cb inch diameter of punch1 d to c4 ,fig4 #ae illustrates a corresponding key3 diameter of key #c_/af inch1 d to e2 diameter of head1 #c_/h inch1 a to b2 c is the hole for inserting the pin which holds the spring4 ,the length of the keys vary from #a-c_/d to #b-a_/h inches1 according to the position they occupy in the machine4 ,the punch and key of the ,uhlinger machine are shown 7one-half of actual size7 in ,figs4 #d and #e4 ,a and ,b1 in ,figs4 #b and #ac1 represent the piston for guiding the head in its vertical motion4 ,fig4 #c represents the front view of the head4 ,the numbers and letters indicating the different parts correspond with ,fig4 #b4 ,the principle of construction and action of the heads in both kinds of machine are similar4 ,each key is provided with a fine spiral spring1 which1 after every action of the key1 returns it to its original position4 ,the key for the peg-hole is controlled by the larger spring1 ,s1 ,d1 in ,figs4 #b and #ac4 ,the arrows in these two drawings indicate the direction taken by the keys when under pressure4 ,when cutting cards eight rows deep1 the thumb of the right hand works the key for the peg-hole2 the eight keys in the rear of the machine 7which are the ones to be used7 are worked by the four fingers of each hand4 ,when cutting cards twelve rows deep1 the eight keys in the rear are operated by the eight fingers in the same manner2 but the thumb of the right hand operates keys marked #a and #b1 and the thumb of the left hand operates keys marked #aa and #ab4 ,during the cutting operation the fingers should not be removed from the keys2 they should always be in readiness to press the required key into action1 as this is the only way to become expert4 ,the eye of the card stamper must rest uninterruptedly on his design2 and the keys are called at will by the fingers1 without the eye leaving the design1 to find out where a certain key or finger is situated at the time4 ,fig4 #d shows relative positions of punch1 ,s1 and key1 ,e1 when ready for stamping a hole4 ,fig4 #e shows the relative positions of punch and key when no hole is required4 ,o represents the ,jacquard card as resting in the slot of the lower head4 ,,ii4 in ,fig4 #c1 marked ,x to ,z1 shows a full width view of this card4 ,the space ,d1 in ,figs4 #d and #e permits the spring to be inserted regulating the key4 ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 solid parts of the upper head1 7,i41 in ,fig4 #c74 ,f1 ,g1 ,k1 ,l1 solid parts of the lower head1 7,,ii41 in ,fig4 #c74 ,the cards are passed into and through the stationary part of the head at ,x1 ,z1 and are attached to a 8carriage0 in the rear of the punch head4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab4 ,two methods are employed for moving the carriage3 #ast4 ,by a 8skipper0 at its rear fastened to the carriage1 which moves in a rack of pins secured to the cutting table4 ,this method of construction is used by the ,uhlinger machine4 ,figs4 #f and #g are front and side views of this mechanism4 ,figs4 #h and #i1 the top view and sectional cut of the rack4 #b;d4 ,the rack is fastened to the carriage1 and the skipper to the table1 thus reversing the first method4 ,see ,fig4 #ai1 top view4 ,this method of construction is employed in the ,royle machine4 ,the distance of the pins in the racks in both systems of construction 7,american and ,french7 corresponds to the distance of the rows in the card4 ,the racks are generally constructed for #fjj1 #ijj1 and #abjj ,jacquard machines4 ,of these three sizes the #abjj is the most advantageous1 as cards can be cut for any smaller size machine4 ,the rack of a #ijj machine 7,french index7 contains #hh pins1 while that of a #abjj machine 7,french index7 contains #aad pins4 ,fig4 #aj illustrates the 8catch0 for holding the cards in the ,uhlinger machine4 ,this is fastened to the carriage when pressed by the hand on top in the direction of arrow1 ,s2 this catch will compress spring1 ,d1 in the direction of arrow1 ,s1 thus opening the 8blade10 ,c1 7front view shown by ,fig4 #aa71 in the direction of arrow1 ,s1 thus allowing the card to be inserted and held1 securely fastened to the carriage4 ,fig4 #ah illustrates the side view of the carriage and its catch for holding the ,jacquard card as used in the ,royle machine4 ,arrow1 ,s1 indicates the pressure of the operator's hand on lever1 ,b1 when the card is inserted4 ,this lever presses by means of presser1 ,d1 in the direction of arrow1 ,s1 on the double-acting lever1 ,e1 at c4 ,this lever moving around its fulcrum1 e1 will lift catch1 ,f1 in the direction of arrow1 ,s1 thus allowing the card to be inserted4 ,spring1 ,g1 fastened to main part of carriage1 ,a1 by means of screw1 a1 secures the card to the catch4 ,c1 ,c1 are the carriage wheels1 of which there are four4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ac4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ad4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ae4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #af4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ag4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ah4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ai4 ,fig4 #ai represents the top view of ,fig4 #ah1 and is designed to show the arrangement of levers1 wheels1 and catches of the complete rack as used for a #ijj machine4 ,the letters indicating the different parts correspond with the ones used in ,fig4 #ah4 ,fig4 #af shows top view and ground plan1 and ,fig4 #ag the front elevation of the 8card-guide10 as constructed on the ,royle machine4 ,it is universal and self-adjusting to any width of cards from #c_/d to #c-a_/b inches2 both guide-plates1 ,c and ,d1 are caused to move equally toward or away from the peg-punch1 thus accurately centering the peg-hole in all cards4 ,letters ,a1 ,b1 ,p1 and numbers #a to #ab1 correspond to those used in ,fig4 #ac4 ,e1 ,f1 ,h1 ,k1 are the three levers moving around pin1 ,g1 7the latter in even line with the centre of the peg-hole1 ,p74 ,these levers are held by screw1 ,l1 in any required position4 ,spring1 ,s1 holds lever1 ,f1 ,h1 against pin1 ,t1 which in turn is fastened to the same plate as screw1 ,l4 ,fig4 #af indicates the card-guide set for a #ab-row card4 ,let us suppose it necessary to cut an #h-row card4 ,loosen screw1 ,l1 and spring1 ,s1 will instantly contract until each side of the guide has moved the required distance 7two holes and two spaces between holes7 towards the centre4 ,much valuable time is saved by the use of this guide1 as it instantly adjusts itself to any width of card1 and at the same time centralizes each card passed through the machine4 ,in factories where broken cards require to be constantly renewed1 the value of this guide is especially noticeable1 there being no material interruption of the regular work of the operator1 who can replace the damaged card at the moment wanted4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bj4 ,letters indicating the different parts in ,fig4 #ag1 correspond to those used in ,fig4 #af4 ,as mentioned before1 the pistons1 ,a and ,b1 of the cutting head are connected below the table to the cutting levers1 and by a simple combination of levers1 the cutting pedal is brought in direct relation to the cutting lever2 all of which are illustrated in the perspective view of the ,royle machine in ,fig4 #bj1 and the ,uhlinger machine in ,fig4 #ab4 ,the working of the cutting pedal is very simple4 ,pressing the pedal1 situated at the right1 causes the punch head to descend1 and the punch penetrates the card4 ,transferring the pressure from the right to the left pedal raises the punch-head to its former position1 7punches above card71 ready for a repetition of these movements4 ,the 8skip0 arrangement allows the carriage to advance the distance from one pin to the other in the card-rack1 thus placing the card in proper position under the punches4 ,at the proper height above the punch-head is the reading-board1 on which the guide-rules are moved across the design by screws1 which are connected by gearing and operated by means of the hand-wheel or crank shown on the lower side of the board4 ,as drawing-pins or thumb-tacks are generally used as fastenings for the design1 the reading-board is made of soft wood1 and its trimmings are made of hard wood4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ba4 ,fig4 #ba illustrates the ,uhlinger ,card ,stamping ,machine operated by belt-power4 ,being the same in principle as the foot-power machine1 it is only necessary to state that instead of working the machine by means of the cutting pedals1 it is done automatically by simply touching any of the keys that operate the punches2 thus the machine makes one stroke and punches the required holes4 ,the ,stamping of ,cards4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bb4 ,before commencing this work a clear conception of the tie-up and leasing of the heddles is required4 ,the holes in the cards for the needles to penetrate1 or the spots in cards where no hole is to be stamped1 must be arranged in an uninterrupted chain from one row to the other1 until all the rows are taken up4 ,as previously mentioned1 the method observed in tying-up the loom is the guide for stamping the cards4 ,the number of ends required in a certain design may repeat only once in the number of hooks and needles employed in the ,jacquard machine2 or they may repeat two1 three1 or more times4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bc4 ,fig4 #bc illustrates a design upon #dj warp-threads4 ,fig4 #bb shows the corresponding card1 7,french index71 one-fourth of its actual size1 for the first pick4 ,in a #bjj machine this design will repeat itself five times4 ,the lace-holes and the peg-holes are blank4 ,the reserve row 7#bfth7 is shaded1 and the design as cut in card is indicated by black dots4 ,this cut also shows the direction of reading each row to correspond with the numbering for the punch-heads1 in ,figs4 #b1 #c1 #ac1 and card-guide in ,fig4 #af4 ,the numbers #a to #dj1 #da to #hj1 #ha to #abj1 #aba to #afj1 #afa to #bjj1 indicate the direction of stamping the design1 as well as the five repeats to form the complete card4 ,in this connection it will be of great advantage to examine ,fig4 ,,xxix41 p4 #bh1 under the head of the ,jacquard ,machine and its ,tie-ups4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bd4 ,fig4 #bd illustrates a ,jacquard card 7,american index7 stamped for ingrain carpets1 one-half of actual size4 ,this card illustrates the stamping for two textures1 #a to #bjh being for 8extra fine40 ,the #bf rows needed are shown full black1 and marked to correspond4 ,the peg-holes and lace-holes are left blank4 ,in the other texture1 or what is termed 8extra super0 ingrain carpet1 the additional rows are represented by the shaded holes at the ends of the cards4 ,arrow1 ,s1 indicates the direction for commencing to read off each row4 ,,iii4 ,repeating ,jacquard ,pattern ,cards by the ,positive ,action ,repeater4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #be4 ,if several sets of cards of one design are required for starting a corresponding number of looms1 and the first set has been produced by the 8piano machine0 exact duplicates can easily be obtained at small cost to the manufacturer by the 8,repeating ,machine40 ,this machine is built by ,messrs4 ,john ,royle ,sons1 ,paterson1 ,n4 ,j41 and is illustrated by ,fig4 #be in a perspective view4 ,fig4 #bf1 p4 #id1 represents the front elevation of the throat-piece through which the cards that are to be cut pass1 the carriage on which it is supported1 and the mechanism employed for imparting a rising and falling motion to the carriage4 ,fig4 #bg1 p4 #ie1 is a vertical longitudinal section of the upper portion of the machine4 ,fig4 #bh1 p4 #ie1 gives a perspective view in detail of portions of a selecting-needle and key-wire and a lever connecting them4 ,fig4 #bi1 p4 #ie1 gives a view in detail of the mechanism employed to turn the pattern cylinder4 ,the cards to be duplicated 7,n1 ,n1 ,fig4 #bf1 p4 #id17 are arranged upon the card race-arms 7,m1 ,m1 ,fig4 #bf17 in the same manner as upon a loom4 ,the uncut or blank cards1 having been previously laced together1 7,e1 ,e1 ,fig4 #bf71 are piled in the rear at the base of the column1 and thence passed forward through the machine1 and delivered finished in front4 ,the perforating of the cards is performed by a vertically reciprocating die1 7,d1 ,fig4 #bf71 and a set of punches 7,c1 ,fig4 #bf17 carried in a fixed punch-head1 and capable of being pushed upward when such movement is not prevented4 ,the cards commonly used are of a size to receive #fjj holes1 and hence that number of punches are required4 ,the cards 7,e7 to be cut are drawn over a 8reel0 or 8idler0 7,f1 ,fig4 #bf17 at the back of the machine1 and thence pass through openings in the base frame to the front of the machine1 and over a square cylinder having a step-by-step rotary motion4 ,by each quarter turn of this cylinder1 the chain of cards is drawn forward sufficiently to bring a new card in the die4 ,by the rising movement of the die 7carriage71 which takes place as soon as the intermittent feed of the cards has ceased1 the card in the throat of the machine is carried up against the lower ends of the punches1 and is cut or perforated by all such punches as have their upward movement prevented by the keys2 while such punches as are not arrested by the keys are carried upward1 and do not puncture the card4 ,the pieces of card cut off fall through a throat or opening in the carriage 7,f1 ,fig4 #bg17 into the hollow base frame1 7,a1 ,fig4 #bg71 and can be taken out at the door1 7,a1 ,fig4 #bf74 ,it will therefore be apparent that the variations in the cards are produced simply by holding down different punches in successive punching operations4 ,this is regulated by the original set of cards1 7,n1 ,fig4 #bf71 which are passed over the pattern cylinder 7,o1 ,fig4 #bf74 ,the latter has also a step-by-step rotary motion similar to the cylinder first described4 ,its four faces are covered with holes the same distances apart as the perforations in the pattern cards4 ,this pattern cylinder is mounted in bearings in a carriage on the top of the machine1 and is reciprocated back and forth between the successive rotary movements of the feed and pattern cylinders4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bf4 ,in the upper part of the machine are arranged what are termed selecting needles1 7,c1 ,fig4 #bg71 which consist of wires arranged in horizontal rows1 with their ends opposite to the pattern cylinder1 and which are the same distance apart as the holes in the cylinder1 so that if the cylinder were moved up by the carriage against the ends of the needles1 the latter would enter the holes in the cylinder1 and would not be moved longitudinally4 ,there are the same number of selecting needles as punches in the machine--six hundred4 ,when1 however1 a perforated pattern card is on the cylinder1 and it is moved against the ends of the selecting needles1 such needles as are opposite the perforations of the cards will enter them1 and will not be moved1 while such needles as are opposite the blank spaces of the cards will be moved longitudinally4 ,see ,fig4 #bg for illustration4 ,at the reverse movement of the carriage1 an 8evener10 which is secured to it at the end opposite the pattern cylinder1 strikes against the ends of all the needles so moved and pushes them back to their original position4 ,above each of the punches before described is a horizontal sliding key 7,d1 ,fig4 #bg17 attached to a horizontal key-wire 7,d1 ,fig4 #bg71 and the #fjj key-wires are arranged in horizontal rows below the selecting needles1 and are each connected by a lever 7,b1 ,fig4 #bg17 with the corresponding selecting needle4 ,consequently1 a longitudinal motion of any selecting needle will move the key-wire with which it is connected in a reverse direction4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bg4 ,fig4 #bh gives a clear demonstration of the connection of a selecting needle1 c1 to the key-wire1 f by means of the lever1 e1 movable around the fixed pin1 d4 ,each key 7,d1 ,fig4 #bg17 consists of a cylindrical plug of metal1 which1 projecting over a punch1 forms an abutment to keep that punch from rising1 but if withdrawn1 allows the punch to rise without resistance4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bh4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bi4 ,a step arrangement of the punches and keys is adopted2 that is1 the upper ends of the outer rows of punches are highest and the punches in the several rows decrease in height till the inner row is reached1 where the punches are the lowest4 ,hence1 the keys of the upper rows1 which correspond to the outer rows of punches1 are carried over the inner rows of punches and terminate over the punches in the outer rows4 ,normally1 all the keys are above the punches1 and all would punch when the die ascends1 but when a pattern card is carried by the pattern cylinder against the ends of the selecting needles1 certain needles are moved and produce a reverse movement of the corresponding key-wires1 and draws certain keys out of reach of their punches2 no resistance being offered to the upward movement of such punches1 they do not perforate the cards4 ,the carriage on which the pattern cylinder is carried being mounted directly on the top of the machine1 can be readily lifted off to afford access to the parts below1 and it is provided with a movable hood1 which may be lifted to inspect the selecting needles4 ,the keys and key-wires are arranged farther apart vertically than the selecting needles1 thus enabling larger keys and heavier and stronger key bearings to be used1 and avoiding any liability of the punches striking the keys in the tier next above when those of their own tier are withdrawn4 ,instead of applying a separate spring to each punch to move it downward or return it as the die recedes1 a positively operated returning plate is used1 which moves down as the die recedes and acts on collars on the punches1 see d1 ,fig4 #bg1 and forces all the punches down4 ,this is very important1 for if any of the punches should fail to descend1 the movement of their keys would be prevented1 and thereby the machine would fail to properly repeat4 ,the bearings of the pattern cylinder are so constructed that the cylinder can be instantly changed to allow either a #djj or a #fjj-;hole cylinder to be used1 so that the bearings can be adjusted to adapt them for either size cylinder4 ,the bearings of the feed cylinder1 whereby the chain of cards to be cut is moved1 are constructed and supported so as to enable them to be readily adjusted to suit slight variations in the tightness with which the cards are laced1 or in a greater degree to suit large or small cards1 and the mechanism whereby the cylinder is operated is capable of ready adjustment for the same purpose4 ,it is well known that the punching of a great number of holes simultaneously1 even in cardboard1 requires great power1 and entails enormous shock and great wear on the machine2 to obviate this difficulty1 the punches are slightly varied in length relative to their keys1 so that they will not all act on the cards at exactly the same instant1 and the strain on the machine and power required are thereby greatly reduced4 ,a ,lace-,hole ,press ,is indispensable to the machine4 ,this is a separate little machine1 designed to set upon a bench or table1 and is used especially for cutting the peg and lace-holes4 ,it may be operated very readily by hand1 but if desired1 is easily adapted to run by power4 ,the feeding is done by one motion of the hand1 and once handling of the card2 the cards leave the press by gravitation1 and arrange themselves in piles4 ,the press is arranged to cut cards for #djj or #fjj machines4 ,the ,lacing of ,cards4 ,two methods are observed for lacing ,jacquard cards3 ,a1 hand-lacing on a common frame2 ,b1 lacing by power4 ,a4 ,lacing of ,jacquard ,cards by ,hand4 ,for this purpose the cards are put on a common frame containing on its surface pegs of a corresponding size to those used on the cylinder4 ,the pegs on the frame are made of hard wood1 and the pegs of the cylinder of brass4 ,these pegs on the frame are located at exact distances apart1 and the frames are built to hold from #cj to #ej cards1 superficially arranged4 ,figs4 #cj and #ca illustrate the frame under ,s1 showing at a three cards arranged for a fabric1 with a twill effect from left to right2 and at b the same cards arranged for a twill in the opposite direction1 from right to left4 ,these frames are arranged to slide into each1 so as to adapt them to the distances of the peg-holes in the cards4 ,to give a clear understanding as to the distance of these pegs from each other a few measures most generally used for lacing frames are given4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ca4 #a4 ,for a #bjj ,machine 7,french ,index47 ,the centre of the pegs are #b-i_/af apart4 ,width of cards #b-e_/af1 allowing #a_/d for distance between the cards4 ,diameter of the pegs at the bottom1 #c_/h4 ,distance of the centre of one peg to the centre of the corresponding one across the frame1 #g-a_/b4 ,length of card1 #i-e_/h4 #b4 ,for a #fjj ,machine 7,french ,index74 ,the centre of the pegs are #c-e_/h apart4 ,width of cards1 #c-c_/h1 allowing #a_/d for distance between cards4 ,diameter of the pegs at the bottom1 #c_/h4 ,distance of the centre of one peg to the centre of the corresponding one across the frame1 #ad-e_/h4 ,length of card1 #af-g_/h4 #c4 ,for an ,ingrain ,carpet ,machine 7,american ,index74 ,the centre of the pegs are #c from each other4 ,width of cards #b-c_/d1 allowing #a_/d for the distance between the cards4 ,diameter of the pegs at the bottom1 #c_/h4 ,distance of the centre of one peg to the centre of the corresponding one across the frame1 #aa-c_/h4 ,length of card1 #ac-a_/d4 ,b4 ,lacing of ,jacquard ,cards by ,machine4 ,different styles of machines are constructed for doing this work1 among which we find machines requiring two needles for each series of holes in the ,jacquard cards1 and machines using one shuttle in connection with each needle4 ,the ,jacquard cards mostly needed are for machines containing #djj1 #fjj1 etc41 hooks and needles4 ,the ,jacquard cards for these sizes have three series of lace-holes1 and the number of needles1 or needles and shuttles1 used in the machine1 is proportionally increased4 ,the ,method of using ,two ,needles for ,lacing each ,series of ,holes ,is the one most extensively employed1 hence we will take this machine 7,w4 ,p4 ,uhlinger1 ,phila41 builder17 for the subject4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cb4 ,fig4 #cb represents the perspective view of a lacing machine for #fjj ,jacquard cards4 ,the table is located at a convenient height1 and is #cc-a_/b by #cf-a_/b inches4 ,two grooves1 each #a-a_/af inches by #bf-a_/b inches1 are located five inches from front and rear respectively1 and #i-a_/h inches from each side4 ,a third groove of the same size is situated in the centre1 #f-a_/cb inches from the others4 ,an endless chain runs in each groove1 consisting of #bd links1 corresponding in length to the width of the card to be laced4 ,each link of the two outside chains has a peg of a size corresponding to the one used on the cylinder in the ,jacquard machine4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cc4 ,fig4 #cc illustrates the side view of a link1 and the method of jointing3 a1 the peg2 c1 the joint of link2 the length of each link being #c-a_/b inches1 and the height #a_/c inch at the joint2 the diameter of the pegs at the bottom1 #c_/h inch2 the height of each peg1 #a_/b inch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,fig4 #cd shows the top view of ,fig4 #cc1 illustrating two complete links4 ,the body of each link is #b-c_/h inches long2 the head1 #e_/h inch long2 the slot1 #a inch long4 a represents the peg2 e the empty spaces between each pair of links1 to receive the teeth 7#a_/b inch high7 of wheel 7#h inches diameter1 ,fig4 #cf74 ,this wheel holds and guides the endless chain2 also imparts the required movement to the cards4 ,it is regulated by a cam arrangement4 ,see ,fig4 #ce4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ce4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cf4 ,two needles are required for each of the three series of lace-holes1 or six needles in all4 ,the process of lacing each series is the same2 as the three horizontal working needles are connected to one rod2 thus1 by working this rod1 they are operated correspondingly4 ,the three vertical working needles are arranged in the same manner1 and also the three loop-guides4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cg4 ,fig4 #cg shows a top view of one of the loop-guides1 d1 a1 c4 ,the dotted lines near a represent the position of the corresponding 8presser0 for the cards during the lacing process4 ,length of strip c1 #e inches2 length of strip d1 #ac inches2 width of each strip1 #c_/d inch2 width of empty space1 between c and d1 #c_/d inch4 b indicates the top view of the vertical working needle4 ,arrow1 ,s1 direction the cards run while being laced4 ,as previously mentioned1 two needles are required for each series of lace-holes4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ch4 ,fig4 #ch shows the top view of the needle1 which works in a horizontal direction4 ,fig4 #ci side view of the same4 ,fig4 #ch is shown threaded1 whereas ,fig4 #ci is not threaded1 so as to give a clear view of the eye4 ,this needle is fastened to its holder by means of screw1 d2 the blade of the needle extends #c-a_/b inches2 width of needle at bottom1 #c_/af inch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ci4 ,two different sets of lacing twines are used1 viz43 #ast4 ,set of fine thread running from three spools shown in a vertical position on the side of the machine1 used for threading the needles running in a horizontal direction4 ,in our explanation we denote this twine with 8a40 7#g-ply1 ,no4 #ad soft laid mule yarn47 #b;d4 ,the set of heavy twine running from spools arranged horizontally near the bottom in rear of machine is threaded to the vertical needles4 ,this twine is indicated by 8b0 in our explanations4 7,no4 #bd braid banding47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dj4 ,in ,fig4 #ch1 arrow1 e1 illustrates the twine1 8a10 as coming off the spools4 ,on the bottom of the 8holder0 is an extension which is separately illustrated in its front view by ,fig4 #dj4 ,this extension contains a pin marked k1 which guides the twine into the hole1 l2 7e and arrow in ,fig4 #ch correspond with e and arrow in ,fig4 #dj74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #da4 ,the position of this twine in working is shown in ,fig4 #ch4 ,c1 the crossing of the two twines preparatory to forming the loop1 is illustrated4 ,the mechanical construction is such that needle1 a1 is withdrawn from loop at the same time needle1 b1 commences to rise1 placing the twines in position shown in ,fig4 #da4 ,needle1 b1 will in turn pull down as soon as needle1 a1 is ready for moving forward4 ,by moving needle1 b1 down1 its twine will form a loop1 see ,fig4 #db1 held in its position by the 8loop-guide10 ,fig4 #cg4 ,through this loop1 needle1 a1 is again inserted4 ,needle1 b1 will leave the card below as soon as needle1 a1 is in its loop4 ,at this juncture the cards will be moved by means of the catch and chain of links one hole or one space between cards1 whichever may be required4 ,after this is done1 needle1 b1 will rise in its new place1 and at the same time needle1 a1 commences its backward journey through the loop shown and explained in ,figs4 #ch and #da at the beginning2 thus ready for a repetition of the two movements4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #db4 ,the foregoing explanations will give the principle of this card-lacing machine as follows3 8,one needle holds the other's twine until the other needle has moved one point ahead40 ,lacing ,machine working with ,one ,needle and ,one ,shuttle for each ,series of ,holes4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dc4 ,fig4 #dc illustrates the side elevation4 ,fig4 #dd illustrates the front elevation4 ,the construction of this machine and its working are as follows3 ,over the prisms1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d1 of the same size and shape as a cylinder of the ,jacquard machine1 run three endless chains4 ,surrounded by this endless chain is the shuttle-box1 ,e1 with three shuttles1 one of which is illustrated in ,fig4 #de4 ,on each of these shuttles a toothed rod1 ,k1 is fastened1 the teeth of which work in the circles1 ,h1 ,h1 as soon as a shuttle is put in its lay1 ,j4 ,this toothed rod1 which runs underneath the circles1 ,h1 is used to move the shuttles to and fro4 ,l indicates the pulleys for driving the machine4 ,m and ,o1 ,o1 the gear-wheels2 ,q1 the lever1 and ,p1 its guide1 connected as shown4 ,the bent needles1 ,z1 work in connection with the shuttles1 ,e4 ,these needles are tubes through which the twine for lacing from spools1 ,a1 are passed4 ,these tubes are adjusted to rod1 ,s1 which swings around pin1 ,t1 and gets its motion from rod1 ,u1 ,v1 ,w4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dd4 ,the ,jacquard cards are placed on the machine at ,b1 and move in rotation under needle1 ,z4 ,the movement of the cards must be so regulated that1 notwithstanding the want of uniformity in the arrangement of the holes1 each hole in turn must come directly under the lacing needles4 ,the lacing of the cards is produced as follows3 ,after the cards have moved one hole1 the needles1 ,z1 lower to ,p1 ,fig4 #dc1 making the shed4 ,the shuttles move with their points under the thread thus lowered by the needle1 and pass clear through the loop4 ,after the needles rise1 they will in turn tighten the loop1 the shuttles return to their original position1 and the work repeats4 ,this method of lacing ,jacquard cards has the disadvantage of compelling the machine to be stopped oftener than if using the two-needle system 7,fig4 #cb71 as the shuttles will only hold a small quantity of lacing twine4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #de4 ,,practical ,,hints ,,to ,,learners ,,of ,,jacquard ,,designing4 ,designers for ,jacquard work1 in addition to being good draughtsmen1 must be thoroughly acquainted with the three systems of weaves3 plain1 twills and satins1 and their sub-divisions2 also with the structure of double cloth1 three-ply cloth1 four-ply cloth1 etc4 ,he must know the influence of the texture upon the weaves and the fabric2 the arrangement of the threads in the dents of the reed2 the different systems of tying-up the ,jacquard harness2 and the stamping of the ,jacquard cards for the various kinds of textile fabrics4 ,squared ,designing ,paper for the ,different ,textile ,fabrics ,executed on the ,jacquard ,machine4 ,the classifying of the ,o designing paper is done by enclosing a number of small rectangles1 horizontal and vertical1 within a certain distance by a heavy line4 ,such enclosures are known in practice as 8squares40 ,the spaces between the vertical lines indicate the warp-threads1 and those between the horizontal lines the filling threads4 ,as a rule the warp dimension is indicated first2 and a design paper having five rectangles vertical with ten horizontal1 is variously read and indicated as #e by #aj1 #e #aj1 or #e_/aj4 ,figs4 #df to #fh represent some of the styles of ,o designing paper most frequently used4 ,the size of the square may vary in each kind of paper1 and must be selected according to the fabric to be sketched4 ,for example3 ,there are three styles of #h #h ,o designing paper in general use3 ,one forming #a_/b inch heavy squares1 7,fig4 #dh71 one forming #c_/d inch heavy squares1 7,fig4 #fd71 and the other forming #a inch heavy squares4 ,these sizes may still be varied4 ,the principle of these three kinds of ,o designing paper is identical1 the size preferred being left to the pleasure of the designer4 ,if a design is to be made for a great number of needles1 say #fjj1 #ijj1 #abjj1 etc41 it will be best to use the smallest size2 whereas in a design for only #ajj to #bjj needles the larger sizes may be employed4 ,illustration3 ,fig #df4 #hf ,illustration3 ,fig #dg4 #hg ,illustration3 ,fig #dh4 #hh ,illustration3 ,fig #di4 #hi ,illustration3 ,fig #ej4 #haj ,illustration3 ,fig #ea4 #hab ,illustration3 ,fig #eb4 #dh ,illustration3 ,fig #ec4 #dab ,illustration3 ,fig #ed4 #dbj ,illustration3 ,fig #ee4 #dbd ,illustration3 ,fig #ef4 #eh ,illustration3 ,fig #eg4 #faj ,illustration3 ,fig #eh4 #fab ,illustration3 ,fig #ei4 #iaj ,illustration3 ,fig #fj4 #ajaj ,illustration3 ,fig #fa4 #ajab ,illustration3 ,fig #fb4 #abab ,illustration3 ,fig #fc4 #bdab ,illustration3 ,fig #fd4 #hh ,illustration3 ,fig #fe4 #ajad ,illustration3 ,fig #ff4 #hae ,illustration3 ,fig #fg4 #haf ,illustration3 ,fig #fh4 #eaf ,practical ,use of the ,heavy ,square in ,designing ,paper4 ,the heavy square serves as a unit of measurement1 as well as a means of calculation1 and shows readily and exactly the size of the design4 ,the eye becomes accustomed to grasping the meaning of this large square1 and comprehends at a glance the situation4 ,for instance3 ,on #h #h paper1 #be squares means #h #be1 or #bjj rectangles each way4 #aj #aj paper1 #aj #be1 or #bej rectangles each way4 #aj by #ab paper1 #aj #be1 or #bej rectangles one way1 and #ab #be1 #cjj rectangles the other way4 ,these rectangles in actual work represent threads or ends1 thus3 #bjj ends on #h #h paper require #be squares4 #cjj #aj #aj #cj #dej #aj #ab #de squares one way1 and #dej #ab1 or #cg squares #f lines the other way4 ,the squares will also assist in putting the weave in a design4 ,for example3 ,suppose a design for a damask table-cover is required1 having for weaves the #h-leaf satin4 ,by using the #h by #h paper the 8risers0 or 8sinkers0 of the #h-leaf satin are found in the same place in each square1 thus any error in forming the weave is at once detected4 ,sometimes more than one square is required for ascertaining this fact2 suppose in the preceding example the ,o paper to be #aj by #aj1 then the number of threads represented by four successive squares #d times #aj1 or #dj1 being five repeats of the #h-leaf satin1 as #e times #h #dj4 ,selection of ,designing ,paper for ,single ,cloth4 ,for single cloth the character of the designing paper is ascertained by the number of warp and filling threads required per inch in the finished fabric4 ,for example3 ,a damask fabric with a texture1 when finished1 of #hj_/abj 7#hj ends warp and #abj picks filling per inch7 will require a designing paper of corresponding proportion1 or as #hj is to #abj1 #h #ab4 ,in stripes1 checks1 etc41 the texture in part of the fabric is changed2 such changes require separate designs4 ,if the difference is only slight1 one kind of paper is used4 ,select the paper derived through the proportion of the two as required4 ,for example3 ,a dressgoods fabric forming two distinct effects in one repeat of #djj warp-threads 7#bjj successive ends required for each effect74 ,the first effect made on a texture #fj_/hj4 second #hj_/hj4 ,two distinct designs 7one for each effect7 are required3 ,for the first effect use a paper proportioned as #fj to #hj1 or #f #h4 second #hj to #hj1 or #h #h4 ,if only one kind of ,o designing paper be used for both effects1 find the average of the warp1 thus3 #f #h #ad1 and #ad #b #g1 showing that paper #g #h is the substitute4 ,if using a designing paper under similar circumstances the sketch must be squared to correspond4 ,selection of ,designing ,paper ,for ,double ,cloth4 ,in fabrics where one line 7visible across the face7 is produced by two or more different colored threads1 7each pick forming part face1 part body or back of the fabric71 the designing paper to be used is shown by the proportion of the line effects to the warp-threads 7figure7 per inch4 ,example3 ,take a dress-goods fabric1 extra figured in the filling1 having the following texture3 ,warp1 #fj ends per inch2 filling1 #ajj picks per inch1 double system1 #a pick for ground1 #a pick for figure4 ,the paper required is as #fj37ajj #b7 or as #fj3ej #ab #aj1 or #f #e4 ,the figure is painted upon the paper in various colors and by the card-stamping when cutting the ground cards4 ,the extra colors are treated as if they were ground4 ,when cutting for the extra figure1 deal with it alone4 ,if a fabric has the double-cloth system applied to the warp1 only using one filling for both kinds of warp1 and the ,jacquard-harness is tied-up for 8single sections10 the squared designing paper required is found from the proportion of the number of face and back warp-threads per inch1 to the number of picks per inch4 ,example3 ,take a dressgoods fabric constructed on the following texture3 #hj ends warp1 #a end ground1 #a end figure1 and #fj picks to #a inch4 ,the proportion for the paper is as #hj3fj1 or #h #f designing paper4 ,if the tie-up in the loom is for double sections1 7,fig4 ,,liv4 or ,,lvi471 the fabric in the previous example requires the comparison of the face-warp with the filling1 and the answer is3 #hj #b or #dj ends of face-warp per inch1 #fj picks filling per inch1 giving the proportion of #dj to #fj1 requiring #h #ab1 or #d #f designing paper for the figure4 ,the ground part of the design is executed separately on the same kind of paper2 or if the weave is of a short repeat1 stamped without design4 ,in selecting the ,o designing paper for double cloth1 such as cloakings1 coatings1 etc41 made with a back-warp1 and executed on any of the single section tie-ups1 use the lines between the squares to indicate the back-warp and back-filling4 ,the proportion of ends of face-warp to face-filling in one inch of the finished fabric indicates the kind of paper needed4 ,example3 ,if a fabric has the following texture3 ,warp1 #b ends face1 #a end back1 #ij ends per inch4 ,filling1 #c #a #acb picks ,the kind of designing paper needed is found by dividing #ij by #c1 and multiplying by #b1 thus3 #ij #c #b #fj1 number of ends of face-warp per inch1 and #acb #d #c #ii1 number of picks filling per inch1 giving a #fj #ii paper1 or its equivalent1 #f #aj4 ,face cards for these fabrics must be stamped twice1 first for the face weave1 and afterward for the binder4 ,if using a #ab-row machine1 use punches #a1 #b1 #d1 #e1 #g1 #h1 #aj1 and #aa1 for face2 #c1 #f1 #i1 and #ab1 for the back of the fabric4 ,selection of ,designing ,paper for ,two-ply ,ingrain ,carpets4 ,always observe the proportion existing between the number of warp and filling-threads4 ,for instance1 take a carpet having #ajgb ends warp 7#ecf ground and #ecf filling7 per yard1 with #cj picks per inch 7#a pick ground and #a pick filling1 or #ae pair74 ,then1 #ajgb #cf #bi-bh_/cf ends of warp per inch4 ,the proposition is as #bi-bh_/cf3 #cj2 or1 what is practically the same1 #cj3 #cj1 showing that the paper must be equally divided1 and #h #h may be used1 as is usually done4 ,again1 take a carpet having #hcb ends warp 7#daf ground1 #daf figure7 per yard with #bj picks per inch 7#a pick ground1 #a pick figure1 or #aj pair74 ,then #hcb #cf #bc-d_/cf1 and the proportion is as #bc-a_/i3 #bj1 or as #g-ai_/bg3 #f-b_/c1 practically #h3 #g2 and #h #g paper may be used4 ,,note4--,it will always be advantageous for the card stamping if the designing paper be selected so that the number of warp-ends in one square equals the number of griffe-bars used in the ,jacquard machine4 ,selection of the ,proper ,brush for the ,different ,o ,designing ,papers4 ,the brush used by the designer must be clipped according to the size of the rectangles of the paper4 ,it should cover the rectangle in warp direction at one sweep of the hand2 hence each size of the squared paper requires a specially prepared brush for quick1 good1 and perfect work4 ,colors used ,for ,painting ,textile ,designs4 ,for this purpose take common colors 7in powder71 and mix with water and mucilage to avoid rubbing off after application4 ,use no more mucilage than necessary1 as too much will be followed by slow and imperfect work4 ,colors mixed in this manner must be kept moist by adding a few drops of water daily4 ,the colors most generally used for painting textile designs are3 ,vermilion4 ,lamp ,black4 ,white ,lead4 ,emerald ,green4 ,chrome ,yellow4 ,burnt ,umber4 ,cobalt ,blue4 ,carmine1 etc4 ,a few drops of alcohol will greatly assist the mixing of vermilion1 umber1 and similar colors which have no affinity for water4 ,chloride of lime is used on colors having a vegetable basis 7as carmine1 etc417 for correcting imperfections1 applying weaves or changes in the colored part of a design4 ,if the designing paper becomes greasy1 the colors will not adhere4 ,to cure this take a moist sponge and wipe off the paper4 ,preservation of ,textile ,designs4 ,to prevent textile designs 7painted on the ,o designing paper7 from being soiled1 apply a thin solution of white shellac varnish1 which dries almost instantaneously4 ,a design preserved in this manner can be cleaned off at any time with a wet sponge1 and after years have passed will appear bright and distinct4 ,sketching of ,designs for ,textile ,fabrics to be ,executed on the ,jacquard ,machine4 ,the first work to be done in making an original design1 or in reproducing a design by making an analysis of a woven fabric1 is to prepare the 8sketch40 ,this sketch may be arranged the exact size of pattern needed1 or it may be proportionally larger or smaller4 ,if the design is a reproduction from a woven fabric1 a correct duplicate on the regular drawing paper is required2 for this sketch is of the same value to the designer for ,jacquard work as the correct picking out of a weave is to the designer for harness loom-work4 ,in preparing an original sketch1 the points to be considered are3 ,the setting of the figure1 and the most practical size4 ,methods of ,setting the ,figures4 ,to give a clear illustration of this1 ,figs4 #fi1 #gj1 #ga1 #gb1 #gc1 #gd1 #ge1 and #gf are designed1 representing a few of the methods most frequently used4 ,a separate explanation of each will familiarize the student with this part of the work4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ga4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gb4 ,fig4 #fi illustrates the setting of a figure in 8plain40 ,the space allowed for one repeat 7outline of the square7 is shown divided horizontally and vertically into two equal parts each way4 ,see dotted lines a1 b1 and c1 d1 thus giving the centre for the square at ,s4 ,the design contains two circles in its repeat2 one of these circles is shown with its centre at ,s1 and the other circle is illustrated divided into four quarters1 as shown in the four corners of the square4 ,fig4 #gj represents another 8plain0 setting1 but the figure employed1 a half-moon with a small circle near it1 is set in two directions4 ,fig4 #ga illustrates a design having in its repeat two different figures1 each set by itself in 8plain40 ,a third figure1 ring e1 f1 g1 h1 is used four times to break the general prominence of the effect4 ,illustration3 ,diagram for ,fig4 #gb4 ,fig4 #gb shows the setting of a figure in a design similar to a 8four-harness broken twill40 ,fig4 #gc shows a combination of one figure set in four-harness broken twill style1 the other set in plain4 ,fig4 #gd shows the setting of a figure in the 8five-leaf satin0 style4 ,see diagram1 p4 #aji4 ,fig4 #ge shows the setting of two figures in the 8six-leaf satin0 style4 ,fig4 #gf illustrates the setting of one figure in the 8eight-leaf satin0 method4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gc4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gd4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gf4 ,illustration3 ,diagram for ,fig4 #gd4 ,illustration3 ,diagram for ,fig4 #gf4 ,in setting figures in a sketch the appearance of 8streaks0 must be avoided4 ,to do this it will be found advantageous to sketch more than one repeat of the pattern2 if possible1 sketch two each way1 that the streaking1 if any1 may show itself in the sketch1 and be corrected there4 ,nearly all the patterns seen in fabrics which show streaks can be traced to designers who prepare their designs without sketches2 for if a sketch had been made1 the streaking of the fabric might have been foreseen had the designer exercised proper care in the examination and perfecting of his sketch4 ,figures taken from plants1 or from life1 can be set in the same manner as explained for ,figs4 #fi to #gf4 ,for example1 ,fig4 #gg1 the figure for design4 ,fig4 ,,xxxiv41 p4 #cb1 the latter being set after the method illustrated by ,fig4 #gj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gg4 ,figs4 ,,xxv41 ,,xxvi41 ,,xxxiii41 ,,xxxviii41 ,,xli41 ,,xliv41 ,,xlv41 ,,xlvii41 ,,xlviii41 ,,li41 ,,lv41 ,,lvii41 ,,lxi41 etc41 all show sketches for fabrics executed on one or the other methods of construction just explained4 ,size of ,sketch ,required4 ,this is regulated by the number of harness-cords in one repeat or division1 the method of tie-up employed1 and the texture of the finished fabric4 ,for example3 ,take #djj harness-cords for one division4 ,texture of the fabric when finished #ajj_/ij4 ,tie-up employed1 straight-through4 ,required3 ,the size of one repeat for the sketch4 ,answer3 #djj #ajj #d inches4 ,the figures may be arranged in this sketch to repeat one1 two1 three1 four1 or more times in the #d inches thus available4 ,enlarging and ,reducing ,figures for ,sketches4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gh4 ,figures are not always enlarged or reduced by free-hand drawing4 ,some designers always use the 8squaring off0 process4 ,the latter is clearly illustrated by ,figs4 #gh and #gi4 ,fig4 #gi shows the reduction of ,fig4 #gh1 and ,fig4 #gh the enlargement of ,fig4 #gi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ha4 ,the method observed is of different size squares for each design4 ,each square of ,fig4 #gh containing the same proportion of the whole design as is shown by the corresponding squares of ,fig4 #gi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hb4 ,fig4 #hj illustrates another method of ruling off a figure preparatory to enlargement1 reduction1 or duplication4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hc4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hd4 ,this 8squaring off0 is not always done in a sketch for the reasons just mentioned1 it being frequently done to assist the designer in the original construction of his figure4 ,such an application of its utility may be observed in ,fig4 #ha1 centre for ,damask2 ,fig4 #hb1 border for ,damask2 and ,figs4 #hc and #hd1 sketches for ,damask table-cover1 centre1 with side border4 ,the design of a border for a centre1 or vice versa1 must be selected to correspond 7,fig4 #he74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #he4 ,fig4 #hf shows a horizontal and vertical border1 both of the same design4 ,it is obvious that it would be a very imperfect design if either border should be allowed to form the corner1 hence a union must be carefully constructed embodying the same general features as the design4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hf4 ,transferring of the ,sketch to the ,squared ,designing ,paper4 ,having obtained a perfect sketch of the design as it appears in the fabric1 or as it is desired to show1 the outlines are transferred to the ,o designing paper4 ,this always requires an enlargement of the design1 and to accomplish this the sketch itself must be ruled proportionally to the heavy squares found on the ,o designing paper4 ,if these squares should be too small for the sketch1 they may be enlarged by throwing #d1 #i1 or #ab of the 8squares0 into one large one2 which is indicated by extra ruling off with pencil upon the required heavy lines4 ,in this case the sketch is ruled off corresponding to these pencil lines4 ,the transfer of the sketch to the required ,o designing paper is governed by rules already explained for the enlargement of a design on the regular drawing paper4 ,after the design is transferred to the ,o designing paper it must be 8outlined in squares40 ,outlining in ,squares4 ,this consists in painting the small squares forming the outline of the figure as called for by the outline of the drawing4 ,two methods are observed3 ,one 8outlining in squares0 inside the 8drawing outline20 the other 8outlining in squares0 outside the 8drawing outline40 ,if painting outside the outline1 no small squares are taken1 in which the drawing outline1 taken from inside the figure1 encloses more than one-half of their surfaces4 ,if painting the 8outline in squares0 inside the 8drawing outline10 this rule is reversed1 thus no small square can be taken which is overrun by the drawing outline more than one-half from the outside of the design4 ,the most difficult part of the outlining in squares is to obtain the nearest possible reproduction of the drawing outline4 ,if circles1 curves1 etc41 are to be made1 they must be reproduced as nearly correct as possible2 no bunches1 cuts1 etc41 should disturb its symmetry4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hg4 ,fig4 #hg shows the variations and methods to be resorted to in 8outlining by squares0 the five circles1 each of different size4 ,fig4 #hh shows the formation of projected straight lines varying from a horizontal to a vertical direction4 ,the full changes by #hs1 #gs1 #fs1 #es1 #ds1 #cs1 #bs1 #as are shown in full black4 ,the half changes between the #bs and #cs are formed of #bs and #cs taken alternately as shown by the shaded line4 ,another half change between #as and #bs1 also represented by the shaded effect1 shows the change to be a repetition of the step #a1 #a1 #b4 ,between this last mentioned change and the regular #bs change1 we find the direction of a straight line as derived from a repetition of #b1 #b1 #a1 indicated by the 4 ,below the regular change by #as the straight line is formed by using #g times #a and once #b repeated4 ,above the regular change by #as as shown by the black diagonal1 these same changes will form straight lines running from #de to #ij4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hh4 ,rules for 8,outlining in ,squares0 ,inside or ,outside the ,drawing ,outline4 ,the outlining in squares outside the drawing outline is observed in designs having the figure produced by the filling4 ,the outlining in squares inside the drawing outline is observed in designs having the figure produced by the warp4 ,by reversing these two rules1 the figure in the design would be changed from the sketch1 for if outlining in squares inside the drawing outline1 using filling for figure1 the figure would be reduced proportionally to the reduction made or taken away by the outline squares4 ,thus1 also1 if the warp formed the figure1 and the 8outlining being done in squares10 outside the drawing outline1 the figure would increase proportionally the size of the squared outline4 ,these rules refer to painting the squares for warp only4 ,some fabrics require also the painting of the filling squares4 ,the foregoing explanation may be reduced to the following ,rule3 ,if the figure is required to be in white1 8outline by squares0 outside the drawing outline2 if the figure is required to be painted1 8outline by squares0 inside the drawing outline4 ,after the design is outlined by full small squares1 either the figure or the ground 7as required1 but generally the figure7 is painted all over4 ,the paint required for this work has been previously described4 ,it is only necessary to mention that it must have body enough to be clearly visible1 but not sufficient to obscure the black ruled lines of the paper1 which must show clearly through the paint4 ,the weave1 if necessary1 is next put on the required spots1 either in white or black paint4 ,illustration of a ,sketch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hi4 ,outlining on ,o paper--finished design and fabric sample4 ,for single-cloth fabrics1 as damasks1 dressgoods1 etc4 ,to give a clear illustration of the entire process from sketch to finished design1 ,figs4 #hi1 #ij1 and #ia are designed4 ,fig4 #ib showing the effect of the design on the fabric after being woven4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ij4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ia4 ,fig4 #hi represents a sketch for a fabric supposed to be executed with #hj warp-threads in one repeat2 thus1 if using #h by #h ,o designing paper1 7texture in this example supposed to be equal in filling and warp71 the sketch must be divided and ruled off into eight parts each way4 ,fig4 #ij illustrates the sketch transferred to the ,o designing paper4 ,fig4 ,a represents the 8drawing in outline40 ,fig4 ,b1 the 8outlining in squares40 ,fig4 #ia1 the complete design2 and ,fig4 #ib1 the fabric sample4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ib4 ,design for ,damask ,fabrics to be ,executed on a ,jacquard ,loom1 with ,compound ,harness ,attached4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ic4 ,these designs require no special weave1 as that is taken care of by the compound harness in front of the ,jacquard harness1 as explained in ,chapter ,,xii41 page #eh4 ,after painting in the design1 it is finished1 ready for card-stamping4 ,fig4 #ic shows us a leaf1 taken from sketch 7,fig4 #hj71 which may be used in connection with a larger design1 but will clearly illustrate this division of textile work4 ,designs for ,two-ply ,ingrain ,carpet4 ,in these fabrics1 when the ground and figure are indicated in the design1 the same is considered as finished4 ,as previously stated in the article devoted to these fabrics1 a two-ply ingrain carpet is composed of two fabrics1 in which the journals introduce the weave1 and the double-acting ,jacquard machine the exchange of ground and figure effect4 ,fig4 #id represents a small portion of a design illustrating the three principal effects of this operation4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #id4 ,i4 figure up4 ,,ii4 ground up4 ,,iii4 effect technically known as 8shot-about10 derived from one pick1 figure up2 one pick1 ground up2 and repeated4 ,in ,fig4 #ie a detailed description or analysis of the interlacing warp and filling of ,fig4 #id is given4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ie4 ,x figure up4 ,produced by the ,d ground up4 ,jacquard machine4 weave for ground4 ,produced by 4 weave for figure4 journals4 ,the two-ply ingrain carpet can also be made upon a ,jacquard loom1 tied up for double sections4 ,see ,chapter ,,vi41 page #dh4 ,this is also extensively used in the manufacture of upholstery fabrics2 in fact1 the latter mentioned method is almost exclusively used in ,europe4 ,in ,fig4 #ie the weave of the 8shot-about0 effect calls for two picks face1 and two picks back4 ,an examination of this part of the draft shows that the warp-thread represented by the light pick #a_/c is to be raised1 or has been raised in the adjoining heavy pick #c_/a2 further1 we find the two light picks separated by the raising of a different warp-thread in each pick1 which is also effected between the two heavy picks by the lowering of another warp-thread4 ,this places the ground-thread below its corresponding figure or mate thread1 or the figure thread below its corresponding ground-thread4 ,if these mate threads introduced in succession are required to show side by side1 either on the face or the back of the fabric1 these changes must be indicated on the design by different colors4 ,if such effects are to be introduced when using the common ingrain ,jacquard machine1 the needles of the latter must be operated at each pick2 this requires twice as many cards as are used in designs where the mate thread is always placed below or above its corresponding thread4 ,designs for ,dressgoods ,figured with ,extra ,warp 7one end ,ground1 one end ,figure71 and ,executed on the ,double ,section ,tie-up4 ,in the article explaining the double section tie-up1 see ,chapter ,,vi41 p4 #dh1 as well as the one on the selection of the proper squared paper required for these fabrics1 the general character of these fabrics has been explained4 ,as mentioned in ,chapter ,,vi41 the machine is divided in two parts1 figure and ground2 the ,jacquard harness is leased one end figure1 one end ground1 and repeated4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #if4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ig4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ih4 ,fig4 #if illustrates a part of such a design1 and is to be cut for the figure part of the needles4 ,fig4 #ig shows the plain weave1 which is cut without a design in that portion of the card which operates the ground of the ,jacquard harness4 ,fig4 #ih shows the analysis of the woven fabric for the design referred to in ,fig4 #if4 ,n4 ,b4--,the plain weave used for explaining the present example may be substituted by other weaves1 as a #b_/a twill1 #b_/b twill1 or the four harness broken twill1 etc41 without changing the figure design4 ,designs for ,figured ,pile ,fabrics4 ,designs for figured pile fabrics 7terry or velvet71 ,plushes1 ,astrakhans1 etc41 are also executed without introducing a weave in the design4 ,the design is only intended for the pile-threads1 which are raised when introducing the wire2 the front harness operating the ground-warp4 ,the pile-warp1 when raised over the wire1 is bound by means of the previous pick1 as well as by the pick following by the filling to the ground cloth4 ,the ,shading of ,textile ,fabrics by the ,weave4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ii4--,shading of ,flowers in ,sketches for ,damask ,fabrics4 ,this is generally done in the 8figure0 part 7especially in flowers1 leaves1 etc471 of damasks and similar textile fabrics4 ,the shading can be applied to the satin weaves to the best advantage4 ,rule for ,shading with ,satin ,weaves4 ,put the ground weave 7filling for face7 over the entire part of the ,o designing paper1 which is required to be shaded2 afterwards add one1 two1 three or more horizontal or vertical 7connecting7 spots to the one spot which forms the foundation or satin filling for face4 ,the heaviness of the shade is regulated by the sketch or the fabric4 ,for example3 ,in an #h-leaf satin the difference between filling for face and warp for face may be made with three or four changes only2 or with the entire seven changes4 ,for shading twill weaves no rule can be given4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajj4--e-,leaf ,satin4 #d_/a #c_/b #b_/c #a_/d ,fig4 #ajj shows the shading of the #e-leaf satin1 four changes1 each eight threads1 giving #d #h1 or #cb threads for the effect4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aja4--h-,leaf ,satin4 ,fig4 #aja illustrates the #h-leaf satin applied for shading a circle1 using in rotation every possible change4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajb4--aj-,leaf ,satin4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajc4 #h-;,harness ,twill4 ,fig4 #ajb illustrates the shading of the #aj-leaf satin from filling for face #a_/i1 to warp for face #h_/b1 and back again to filling for face4 ,fig4 #ajc represents the #g_/a eight harness twill1 shaded from the filling for face to the warp for face effect2 the change occurring every eight picks4 ,glossary and ,index4 ,illustration3 decorated horizontal rule ,technical words1 names and terms given in the ,index1 with reference to the number of the page where explained1 are a complete collection used in the work4 ,the ,glossary1 connected with the ,index1 contains those terms 7mostly technical words7 which to some extent have been mentioned in the book1 or terms which1 in the course of study1 will appear alone4 ,they are treated in a short but thorough and comprehensive manner in this ,glossary4 ,,page ,american ,index1 ,piano ,card-stamping machines for1 #hf ,analysis1 the art of resolving a machine1 fabric1 or substance of any kind1 into its constituent parts4 ,arrangement of hooks1 needles1 griffe-bars1 springs1 spring-frame and needle-board in the single-lift ,jacquard machine1 #ad ,backing1 the filling of the lower fabric in a double cloth4 ,batten1 the frame which carries the cylinder in its motion to and from the needle-board1 #ae ,batten ,motion1 #ae ,binder-warp1 the warp-threads producing the foundation of a fabric2 interior warp2 this warp is generally not visible in the finished fabric4 ,used in astrakhans1 velvets1 plushes1 ,brussels carpets1 upholstery fabrics1 etc4 ,bobbin4 ,the filling is wound on the bobbin1 and the latter placed in the shuttle4 ,bonchon1 ,m41 the inventor of the principle of the ,jacquard machine1 #g ,border1 the outer part of a fabric4 ,brush1 as required for perfect work1 #ajg ,camel ,hair is the hair of certain camels1 and is used either combed or carded4 ,card-guide1 used in the ,piano ,card-stamping machine1 #ij ,card-rack1 #ai ,card-wire1 #ai ,carriage1 technical name for a part of the ,piano ,card-stamping machine1 #hh ---- ,technical name for a part of the ,repeating machine1 #ic1 #if ,cashmere1 or ,kashmere wool1 is the fine hair of the ,cashmere goat1 which thrives upon the ,himalaya mountains and surrounding country1 in ,asia4 ,cashmere is also used to indicate certain fabrics made of wool or silk warp and goat hair1 or fine merino wool filling4 ,catch1 a part of the ,carriage in the ,piano machine1 #hh ,catches1 a part of the ,jacquard machine1 #ac ,centre ,tie-up or ,point ,tie-up1 #cc ,colors used for painting textile designs1 #ajg ,comber-board1 7,cumber-board and ,compart-board are also technical terms frequently used for it72 a perforated board which guides and keeps the harness-cords in the required positions4 ,lately1 wires crossing each other and adjusted in a frame are used with advantage2 this latter style is patented by ,the ,g4 ,w4 ,stafford ,manufacturing ,co41 ,providence1 ,r4 ,i41 #bj1 #acj ---- ,made in strips and adjusted in a frame1 #ba ---- ,made of a solid piece of material1 #bj ,combination ,tie-up in two sections1 #ef ,compound ,harness4 ,designs for fabrics executed on a ,jacquard loom with ,compound ,harness attached1 #aaf ---- ,general arrangement and application1 #eh ---- ,number to use of1 #fc ---- ,positions during weaving1 #fc ---- ,their operation by a separate machine1 #fb ---- ,weaves for working1 #fc ,cotton is the white1 downy1 fibrous substance which envelopes the seeds of various species of the cotton plant1 gossypium1 belonging to the natural order malvace4 ---- ,the size of the yarn when spun is calculated by numbers1 commencing with ,no4 #a1 which requires #hdj yards to #af ounces2 every successive number requiring #hdj yards additional for the original #af ounces4 ,cow ,hair1 mixed with a suitable fibre like wool1 is spun into the filling for coarse ingrain carpets1 and similar coarse fabrics1 as backing-filling for cloakings1 etc4 ,cylinder1 a part of the ,jacquard machine1 #g1 #i1 #af ,damask1 a fabric originally made at ,damascus1 and composed of rich silk4 ,the name is at present applied to various textile fabrics composed of cotton1 linen1 etc41 which are of common household use1 as table-covers1 towels1 etc4 ,designing ,paper for the different textile fabrics1 #ajc ,divisions of a comber-board1 #bb ,dobbies1 ,index machines1 ,witches1 etc41 are small ,jacquard machines1 or machines constructed upon its principles4 ,dobby ,card-punching ,machine1 #hf ,double ,cloth1 selection of designing paper for1 #ajf ---- ,two separate fabrics fastened together in the process of weaving4 ,the advantages of double cloth are various1 amongst which we find3 ,to produce a heavier and thicker cloth2 using materials to their best advantage2 producing effects impossible to be procured in single cloth1 etc4 ,there are three divisions of double cloth3-- a1 using one system of warp and two systems of filling2 b1 using two systems of warp and one system of filling2 c1 using two systems of warp and two systems of filling4 ,double-lift ,double-cylinder ,jacquard ,machine1 principle of construction1 advantages over the single-lift1 and method of operation1 #fi ,double-lift ,single-cylinder ,jacquard ,machine1 principle of construction1 advantages over the single-lift1 and method of operation1 #fg ,doup1 an arrangement used in the manufacture of gauze fabrics which compels certain warp-threads to cross each other1 #fd-ff ,douping ,warp1 also known as ,whip-thread1 and used in connection with the ground-warp or standard thread in the construction of gauze fabrics1 #fd ,drawing-in ,draft1 method to be observed in drawing-in a warp in the eyes of the heddle4 ,end1 the technical word for a thread which is used often in its place4 ,expert in ,card-stamping1 how to become1 #hf1 #hh ,extra ,fine1 a two-ply ingrain carpet constructed with #hcb threads warp1 7#cf inch wide fabric71 exclusive of the selvedge1 #gd ,extra ,super1 a two-ply ingrain carpet constructed with #ajgb threads in warp1 7#cf inch wide fabric71 exclusive of the selvedge1 #ge ,extra ,warp1 designs figured with1 #aag ,fabric1 the structure of anything2 the manner in which the parts of anything are united by art and labor2 workmanship1 texture1 make1 etc4 ---- ,manufactured cloth of any kind or material4 ,fabrics for which the ,jacquard machine must be used1 #i ,falcon1 ,m41 the inventor of the cylinder and the ,jacquard cards1 #g ,feed ,cylinder1 a part of the ,repeating machine1 #if ,filling1 the threads running crosswise in a cloth4 ,flax4 ,this term is used to designate the flax or linen fibre1 and also the plant from which it is obtained4 ,frame1 a part of the ,jacquard machine1 #aa ,french ,index1 ,piano ,card-stamping machines for1 #hf ,gauze ,fabrics1 their peculiar characteristic construction1 #fd ---- ,threading of the harness for1 #fd-ff ---- ,tying-up for1 #fd ,griffe1 a part of the ,jacquard machine2 also called ,knife ,box1 #g1 #i1 #aj1 #ac ,griffe-bars1 a part of the ,jacquard machine2 also called ,knives1 #i1 #aj ,guide-board1 used for regulating the height of the mails by tying-up a ,jacquard harness1 #bc ,guiding-rod4 ,see ,jacquard ,plunger4 ,hammer1 a part of the ,jacquard machine1 #af ,harness cords1 the cords of each leash1 #i ,heavy ,square1 its practical points of use on designing paper1 #aje ,heddle and ,harness-cord1 combining1 #bc ,heddles1 as required for compound harness1 #fb ---- ,for the ,jacquard harness1 #i1 #bb ,hook1 a part of the ,jacquard machine1 #i1 #aj1 #ac ,index ,machines4 ,see ,dobbies4 ,ingrain1 as applied to carpets1 was originally intended for a fabric where the wool was colored before carding and spinning1 but which is not true at present1 as the yarn is mostly manufactured before coloring4 ,the great variety of colors used in an ingrain carpet at the present time1 the constant changing of styles1 besides the saving of expense by coloring the yarn after manufacture1 are the general reasons for it4 ,ingrain carpet in our country means the same as ,scottish or ,kidderminster in ,europe4 ,ingrain ,carpet1 two-ply1 construction of the fabric1 #gb ---- ,two-ply1 designs for1 #aaf ---- ,two-ply1 ,jacquard ,machine1 #ga ---- ,two-ply1 selection of designing paper1 #ajf ---- ,two-ply1 tying-up of its ,jacquard harness1 #gb ,ingrain ,carpet ,loom1 two-ply1 built with a stationary shuttle-raceway and an independent comb for beating up the filling1 #hb ---- ,two-ply1 in which the journals are lifted from above by means of a cam arrangement1 #ha ---- ,two-ply1 in which the journals are lifted from below and controlled by either a chain or cam motion1 #ha1 #hb ,jacquard ,cards1 general arrangement and application1 #g1 #i1 #ag1 #ah ---- ,preparing of1 #he ---- ,stamping of1 #he1 #ia ,jacquard ,designing1 practical hints1 #ajc ,jacquard ,harness1 general arrangement and application1 #bj ,jacquard1 ,joseph ,marie1 life of1 #g1 #h ,jacquard ,loom1 a loom furnished with the ,jacquard arrangement4 ,jacquard ,plunger1 a part of the ,jacquard machine2 also known as ,guiding-rod1 #ab ,journals1 peculiarly constructed harness frames used in the manufacture of two-ply ingrain carpets1 #ge ,jute is a native plant of ,china and the ,east ,indies2 its long fibre1 which is of a brown to silver gray color1 is used largely in the manufacture of ,brussels and tapestry carpets1 rugs1 etc41 for the body--ground structure of the fabric4 ,it is distinguished from flax by being colored yellow under the influence of sulphuric acid and iodine solution4 ,the size of the thread when spun is indicated by the same rule as wool--,cut system--#cjj yards to #af ounces4 ,keys1 as used in the ,piano ,card-stamping machine1 #hf ,keys1 as used in the ,repeating machine1 #ic ,key ,wire1 used in the ,repeating machine1 #ie ,lace-hole ,press1 #if ,lacing of ,jacquard cards1 #ig ,lacing ,frame1 #ig ,lacing ,machines1 using two needles for lacing each series of holes1 #ih ---- ,using one needle and one shuttle for lacing each series of holes1 #ajj ,lacing ,needles1 #ajj ,lacing ,twine1 the kind to use for machine lacing1 #ajj ,lantern1 an iron extension put on the cylinder of the ,jacquard machine4 ,the cylinder is turned by means of the catches working on the lantern1 #af ,leaf1 a harness2 thus3 #c-leaf twill or #c-;harness twill1 etc4 ,lease1 or leas4 ,leasing of the ,jacquard harness1 #bc ,leash1 two or more harness-cords combined and adjusted to one neck-cord4 ,for every harness-cord a leash contains there will be found a repeat in the design to correspond1 #i ,lifter-boards1 or ,trap-boards1 used in the ,jacquard machine for two-ply ingrain carpet1 #ga ,lifting of the griffe1 #ab1 #ag ,lingo1 a small iron weight for each harness-cord1 #i1 #bb1 #bc ,loom ,pickers are generally made of raw hide2 less frequently of sole leather or wood4 ,the picker stick1 which is operated by means of cams or arms on the loom1 drives the picker1 and the latter the shuttle4 ,loop-guide1 a part of the lacing machine1 #ii ,mail1 made of metal1 forms the centre part of a twine heddle2 in the eye of the mail the warp-thread is drawn1 #bb1 #bc ---- ,its position in the loom1 #bc ,margin1 plain part between border and selvedge1 or centre and border in a damask table-cover1 etc4 ,mate ,threads1 technical name used in two-ply ingrain carpets2 one ground-thread and its corresponding figure-thread1 #gb-hj ,merino1 originally the wool of the ,spanish ,merino sheep1 and known as some of the finest wool4 ,colonial wools1 as ,australia1 ,cape of ,good ,hope1 ,new ,zealand1 bear the character of the ,merino1 derived through introducing and breeding the original stock in those countries4 ,modifications of the single-lift ,jacquard machine1 #fg ,mohair1 the fleece of the ,angora goat4 ,it is largely used in the manufacture of light-weight dress goods1 which are characterized by their lustre4 ,in pile fabrics1 as plushes1 velvets1 astrakhans1 etc41 of a plain or figured denomination1 mohair is often used for the 8pile-warp10 whereas the ground or body of the fabric is made of cotton4 ,neck-cord1 the cord combining leash and hook1 #i ,needle1 a part of the ,jacquard machine1 #i1 #aj1 #ad ,needle-board1 a part of the ,jacquard machine1 #ag ,open ,harness1 tie-up1 #bc ,outlining in ,squares1 methods and rules for1 #aac-aae ,pattern-cylinder1 a part of the ,repeating machine1 #id-if ,perforated ,bottom-board1 a part of the ,jacquard machine2 through this board the neck-cords are passed1 combining the hooks to the leash1 #ab ,petty-point ,tie-up1 #ea ,piano ,card-stamping ,machine1 operated by belt power1 #ia ---- ,operated by foot power1 #hf ,pick1 one filling thread2 one passage of the shuttle through the shed4 ,pile ,fabrics can have the pile produced either by the warp or the filling4 ,if the pile has to be produced by the warp1 a certain number of warp-threads are raised on certain picks over wires4 ,these elevated threads are interwoven in the pick preceding the interweaving of the wire1 and also in the pick following it1 with a filling-thread to the ground cloth4 ,after a certain number of wires have been inserted1 the first interwoven wire is drawn out of the fabric to be used over1 which operation is repeated in rotation with every wire4 ,we find terry and velvet piles4 ,if the pile is produced by the filling1 some or all filling-threads must float in certain places to allow the thread to be cut at this place1 or its fibres to be raised during the process of finishing the fabric1 #ec1 #aah ---- ,designs for1 #aah ,plain-weave1 also known as cotton-weave2 in this weave1 warp and filling cross each other at right angles1 and interweave alternately4 ,frequently used for ground-weave in ,jacquard designs4 ,point ,tie-up or ,centre ,tie-up1 #cc ,point ,tie-up1 for two-ply ingrain carpets1 #gh ,point ,tie-up in three ,sections1 #ee ,preserving of designs executed on ,o paper1 #ajg ,presser1 a part of the ,lacing machine1 #ii ,punch1 as used in the ,piano ,card-stamping machine1 #hf ---- ,as used in the ,repeating machine1 #ic ,punch-head1 a part of the ,piano machine1 #hf ---- ,a part of the ,repeating machine1 #ic ,rack1 a part of the ,piano ,card-stamping machine1 #hh ,reed1 a series of narrow strips of metal1 between which the warp-threads pass in the loom4 ,the purpose of the reed is to keep the warp evenly divided1 also to strike the filling in many places at the beating the reed towards the breast-beam of the loom4 ,the reed is known by numbers1 the number in each case indicating how many splits are in one inch4 ,,rule for ascertaining the reed number1 if the number of ends in the warp and the width in the reed are known2 the threads per dent either given or to be selected according to the fabric3--,divide the number of ends in the warp by the width in the reed1 which gives the number of threads per inch2 divide this result again by the number of threads in one dent1 according to the weave or rows deep of comber-board4 ,whole numbers or half numbers are generally used for grading reeds only4 ,reel1 or ,idler1 a part of the ,repeating machine1 #ic ,repeat1 that which is to be repeated2 as the repeat of a pattern1 the repeat of an effect in a design1 etc4 ,repeating ,machine1 for ,jacquard cards1 #ib ,reserve ,rows4 ,nearly every ,jacquard machine contains two extra rows of needles in addition to the number as classified1 #aj ,satin-weaves are characterized by a smooth face4 ,the stitch of the threads is opposite to that of the twill weaves4 ,the foundations for designing a satin-weave are1 in the first place1 to arrange as much as possible distributed stitching2 in the second1 to have this as regular as possible4 ,the satin-weaves commence with the five-harness1 and can after this be made on any number of harness4 ,to find the run of stitching in the easiest way1 use the following rule3 ,divide the number of harness into two parts1 which must neither be equal1 nor the one a multiple of the other4 ,afterwards take one result and add it1 commencing to count from #a until all threads or harnesses are taken up1 as example3 ,five harness--#e #b #c4 ,commencing with one and adding two points1 we have as follows3 #a #b #c #b #e #b #g1 or #b #b #d4 ,this will give the stitch as3 #a1 #c1 #e1 #b1 #d1 which means3 the first pick stitches in the first warp-thread1 the second pick stitches in the third warp-thread1 the third pick stitches in the fifth warp-thread1 the fourth pick stitches in the second warp-thread1 the fifth pick stitches in the fourth warp-thread4 ---- ,are frequently employed for ground-weaves in ,jacquard designs4 ,section of the comber-board1 dividing the comber-board in its depth4 ,sectional ,harness ,arrangement1 #bf ,selecting ,needle1 used in the ,repeating machine1 #id ,selvedge1 the edge of cloth1 woven in such a manner as to prevent ravelling1 and often closed by complicating the threads2 also called ,list1 ,listing4 ,setting of ,figures in a sketch1 #ajh ,setting of the ,cylinder1 #ah ,shading of textile fabrics by the weave1 #aah ---- ,rules for1 #aai ,shed1 the separation of the warp to allow the shuttle to pass through4 ,shot-about1 the alternate exchange 7filling ways7 of figure up and ground up in two-ply ingrain carpet1 #gb1 #aag ,shuttles are the means for carrying the filling into and through the shed4 ,shuttle-box ,mechanism1 for carpet hand-looms1 #hj ,shuttle-raceway1 the part of the lay on which the shuttle travels to and fro4 ,silk consists of the pale yellow1 buff colored1 or white fibre1 which the silk worm spins around about itself when entering the pupa or chrysalis state4 ,spun ,silks are calculated as to size of the thread on the same basis as cotton4 ,the adopted custom of specifying the size of raw silk is by giving the weight of #ajjj yards in drams1 avoirdupois4 ,single ,cloth1 selection of designing paper1 #aje ,single-lift ,jacquard ,machine4 ,by it warp-threads1 as called for1 according to the ,jacquard cards1 are raised and lowered each pick4 ,sizes of ,jacquard ,machines1 #aj ,sketches1 enlarging and reducing figures for1 #aaj ,sketch1 principles for1 #ajh ---- ,size required1 #aji ---- ,transferring to the ,o designing paper1 #aab1 #aae ,skipper1 technical name for a part of the ,piano ,card-stamping machine1 #hh ,spools4 ,this technical term applies to a barrel1 having a head on each end4 ,spring ,frame1 a part of the ,jacquard machine1 #ad ,springs1 as used in connection with the needles in the ,jacquard machine1 #i1 #aj1 #ae ,squaring-off1 a process employed for enlarging and reducing figures in sketches1 #aaj ---- ,a process employed in the construction of original sketches1 #aaa ---- ,a process employed in transferring the sketch to the ,o designing paper1 #aab1 #aae ,straight-through ,tie-up4 ,the ,jacquard harness threaded on the machine in the direction from front to rear1 #bc ---- ,the ,jacquard harness threaded on the machine in the direction from rear to front1 #bf ---- ,on the ,english system1 #bh ---- ,for repeating effects in one repeat of the design1 #bi ---- ,for two-ply ingrain carpets1 #gd ---- ,in four sections1 #eg ---- ,in three sections1 #ec ---- ,in two sections 7for double cloth71 #dh1 #ej1 #ea ---- ,of a ,jacquard harness1 having front harness attached1 #cb ---- ,single and double sections combined1 #ea ,straight-through ,tie-up and ,point ,tie-up1 combined1 #ce1 #ci1 #db1 #dc1 #df ---- ,applied to a double-lift double-cylinder ,jacquard machine1 #gj ,stop ,motions1 for looms1 are attachments for stopping the loom when the filling breaks or runs out4 ,the ,protector1 an additional attachment to the loom1 might also be classified as a stop motion1 as it stops the loom in case the shuttle fails to reach its box4 ,super1 a two-ply ingrain carpet constructed with #ifj threads warp 7#cf inch wide fabric71 exclusive of the selvedge1 #gf ,tail-cords1 the substitutes of the regular hooks used in the ingrain carpet machine1 #ga ,temples1 attachments to the loom on each side of the selvedge1 for holding the last woven part of the fabric in even width1 with the width of the fabric in its reed1 thus preventing as much useless chafing of the warp as possible4 ,terry1 a loop2 an uncut pile fabric4 ,textile1 a woven fabric4 ,texture1 changing1 for fabrics using a ,jacquard harness threaded in the solid comber-board1 #ba ---- ,number of warp and filling-ends in one inch2 there are two textures3 a1 for the fabric in the loom 7reed74 b1 for the finished fabric4 ,twills are frequently employed as ground-weaves for ,jacquard designs4 ---- ,a weave running diagonally across the fabric4 ,they are divided into even-sided1 uneven-sided1 broken1 and fancy twills4 ,twist4 ,the amount and the direction of the twist in yarns of any kind of material is very important2 thus it should never be overlooked in the preparation of a design for textile fabrics4 ,tying-up of ,jacquard ,looms1 with compound harness attached1 #eh ,vaucanson1 the inventor of the griffe1 #g ,velvet1 a cut pile fabric4 ,warp1 the threads running lengthwise in a cloth2 the yarn which passes through the ,jacquard harness and the reed4 ,weave1 the way the two systems of threads 7warp and filling71 composed of any kind of material1 are interlaced4 ,whip-thread4 ,see ,douping ,warp4 ,witches4 ,see ,dobbies4 ,wool4 ,by the term wool we comprehend the hairy covering of several species of mamalia1 more especially that of the sheep4 ,it is more flexible1 elastic and curly than hair4 ,wool as used for warp and filling is either combed or carded1 technically known as worsted or wool-spun yarn4 ,the size of the thread for worsted is calculated by #efj yards to #af ounces for ,no4 #a1 and the same number of yards is added for each successive number balanced by the original #af ounces4 ,for woolen yarn two methods of calculating the size are in use3 ,the ,cut system1 having #cjj yards to one cut 7#af ounces72 the ,run system1 having #afjj yards to one run 7#af ounces74 ,the same number of yards are added to each successive number of cut or run1 also to be balanced by the original #af ounces4 ,the ,bridesburg ,manuf'g ,co4 ,,textile ,,machinery ,,builders1 #bja-bjc ,chestnut ,street1 ,philadelphia4 ,stockton ,bates1 ,president4 ,wm4 ,d4 ,shubert1 ,secretary4 ,illustration3 ,,looms3 ,roller1 ,goodyear1 and ,witch ,harness1 ,sheeting1 ,duck1 ,bag1 ,clipper1 ,gebhart1 ,ticking1 ,,and ,,all ,,kinds ,,arranged ,,for ,,jacquard ,,tops4 ,,wool ,,and ,,worsted ,,cards1 ,,pickers1 ,,renovators1 ,,mules4 ,,shoddy ,,and ,,hair ,,pickers4 ,foss ,pevey1--,wellman1--and ,iron ,roller ,cards4 ,drawing1--,railway ,heads1--,spinning ,frames1 ,reels1--,mill ,warpers1--,spoolers4 ,plans for all kinds of ,mills made4 ,,jas4 ,h4 ,,billington ,,co41 ---- ,established #ahdh4---- ,,manufacturers' ,,supplies ,,of ,,every ,,description1 ,,for ,,cotton1 ,,woolen1 ,,silk1 ,,and ,,worsted ,,machinery4 ,,manufacturers ,,of ,bobbins1 ,spools1 ,shuttles1 and ,skewers1 ,oak ,leather ,belting1 ,machine ,cards1 and ,specialties4 ,,general ,,mill ,,furnishers4 ,no4 #aac ,chestnut ,street1 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,,correspondence ,,solicited4 ,,barbour',s ,,irish ,,flax ,,thread1 ,illustration3--#aghd--;,,flax--#ahhg--, trade ,mark ,,barbour',s ,,jacquard ,,harness ,,thread1 ,noted for ,strength and ,smoothness1 and ,warranted not to ,stretch4 ,,the ,,barbour ,,brothers ,,company1 ,new ,york1 ,boston1 ,philadelphia1 ,chicago1 ,st4 ,louis1 and ,san ,francisco4 ,illustration3 ,,bonaker ,,jones ,,manufacturers ,,of ,,design ,,paper ,,for ,,carpet ,,upholstery ,,designers2 #eh ,n #d,,th ,,st4 ,,philadelphia4 ,represented by ,,vincent ,t4 ,,rafferty4 ,having the experience and facilities for making ,design ,papers in all sizes1 we are enabled to supply manufacturers with the best at the lowest rates4 ,special sizes made to order4 ,will be pleased to give you prices for any quantity or size you may need4 ,jacquard ,machines 7,single and ,double ,action7 ,of ,improved ,construction4 ,illustration ,we give great attention to the workmanship1 use only the best materials1 and produce ,the ,best ,machine in the ,market4 ,our prices compare favorably with those more cheaply built4 ,we furnish machines constructed on the ,english plan--leaving out bottom board and glass rods--when desired4 ,geo4 ,w4 ,stafford ,mfg4 ,co41 ,nos4 #c and #e ,point ,street1 ,providence1 ,r4 ,i41 ,,machine ,,builders4 ,single and ,double ,action ,jacquards1 ,single and ,double ,action ,dobbies1 ,the only ,double ,action ,open ,shed ,,positive ,dobbie1 ,equalizing ,spring ,jacks1 ,cottrell's ,positive ,let-off ,motion1 etc41 etc4 ,sketches and ,designs furnished and ,cards ,cut4 ,mail ,eyes1 ,twine1 ,lingoes1 ,wires1 ,springs1 etc41 furnished4 ,leno ,weaving--both simple and compound--a specialty4 ,illustration3 7,patented ,september #f1 #ahhg47 ,this ,comber-board can be seen at the ,,textile ,,school1 #accf ,spring ,garden ,street1 ,philadelphia4 ,,stafford',s ,,patent ,,comber ,,board4 ,the divisions are made with wires crossing each other1 giving the least possible wearing surface on the twine1 thus reducing friction on the outside of the harness1 and consequent wear2 preventing bagging and the jumping of lingoes2 ,jacquards can be run at much higher speed where this board is adopted4 ,five years' use has sustained the above claims and demonstrated its practicability4 ,,the ,,textile ,,record1 #dbe ,,walnut ,,street1 ,,philadelphia4 ,,the ,,foremost ,,textile ,,journal ,,of ,,the ,,united ,,states4 ,covering every ,department of ,textile ,manufacture4 ,weaving and ,jacquard ,work ,fully ,discussed4 ,illustration3 ,each ,number ,the largest staff filled with of ,original and ,practical ,expert ,contributors4 ,articles4 ,,the ,,textile ,,record has positive practical value to every mill owner and mill worker4 ,its contributions to the literature of the textile industry surpass in value and interest everything yet attempted on this side of the ,atlantic4 ,,richly ,,illustrated ,,in ,,each ,,number4 ,,sample ,,copies ,,on ,,application ,,to ,,the ,,textile ,,record1 ,no4 #dbe ,walnut ,street1 ,,philadelphia1 ,,pa4 ,,royle',s ,illustration3 ,highest ,award at the ,american ,institute1 #ahgc1 ,the ,special ,medal of ,silver4 ,highest ,award at ,new ,orleans1 ,the ,gold ,medal with ,first ,degree of ,merit4 ,,improved ,,piano ,,machines --,,and-- ,automatic1 ,positive ,action1 ,,power ,,repeaters1 ,for ,cutting ,jacquard ,pattern ,cards4 ,,improved ,,silk ,,machinery3 ,,warpers1 ,,beamers1 ,,quillers1 ,,dobbies1 ,,covering ,,or 8,,gimp0 ,,machines1 ,,twisters1 c4 ,,john ,,royle ,,sons1 ,,paterson1 ,n4 ,j4 ,illustration3 ,,new ,,high-,,speed ,,power ,,loom ,,for ,,ingrain ,,carpets4 ,built by ,,the ,m4 ,a4 ,,furbush ,,son ,,machine ,,co41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa41 ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 --,one ,hundred ,picks per ,minute4-- ,fifteen ,shuttles ,pick and ,pick4 --,,new-- ,,high-,,speed ,,power ,,loom ,,for ,,ingrain ,,carpets4 ,built by ,,the ,m4 ,a4 ,,furbush ,,son ,,machine ,,co41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa41 ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 --,,one ,,hundred ,,picks ,,per ,,minute4-- ,,fifteen ,,shuttles ,,pick ,,and ,,pick4 ,this ,loom combines the best features of the ,duckworth and ,murkland ,looms2 while possessing the shading capacity of the latter1 it is easier in its operation1 and of a considerably higher speed than either4 ,the following points as to the construction and operation of this ,loom will prove to any manufacturer1 superintendent1 fixer or weaver the superiority of the same over any other style3 ,runs light4 ,,there ,,is ,,no ,,heavy ,,lay ,,to ,,operate1 ,,as ,,in ,,other ,,looms4 ,the lay 7raceway and boxes7 are stationary1 and the filling is beaten up by means of a comb1 which is the only part that swings2 being light1 it can easily accomplish the movements necessary for the one hundred picks per minute1 which could never be attained by operating the lay as in any other loom4 ,no tearing of cloth ,,by ,,the ,,shuttle ,,catching ,,in ,,the ,,warp ,,and ,,being ,,drawn ,,up ,,by ,,the ,,reed1 as the comb for beating up the filling passes in front of the shuttle4 ,easy on filling4 ,the peculiar shape of the filling fork allows the shuttle to pass under it1 at the same time merely opening wide enough to admit the filling4 ,the motion is easy and delicate1 and will not break the poorest filling--a great point of superiority over all other high-speed looms1 in which there is always more or less tendency to chop the filling4 ,shuttle boxes4 ,the box mechanism is the same as in the ,murkland ,loom1 there being a revolver of seven boxes and three upright boxes1 thus giving ten boxes on each side1 or twenty in all4 ,the ,jacquard machine is constructed principally as in the ,duckworth ,loom1 although the cylinder gauge1 boards and journals are like those of the ,murkland4 ,the cylinder is worked with the rock shaft of the ,duckworth ,loom1 instead of a cam shaft4 ,the change gears ,,for ,,take-,,up1 instead of being worm gears1 are ratchet2 but the number of teeth to number of picks is the same as in the ,murkland4 ,power back-off4 ,the ,loom has a power back-off1 as in the ,duckworth1 a pressure of the foot being sufficient to reverse the ,loom4 ,separate cams are provided for each arrangement of boxes1 instead of segment cams as in the ,murkland ,loom4 ,the ,loom is pick and pick4 ,journals are operated from below by cams and treadles4 ,the new ,loom covers all the features demanded in a perfect ,ingrain ,carpet ,loom1 including ability to make all the new weaves4 ,illustration3 ,parker ,patent ,drop ,box ,picker4 ,illustration3 ,pressed ,centre4 ,loom ,picker ,co4 ,biddeford1 ,maine1 ,,manufacturers ,,of ,,raw ,,hide ,,and ,,leather ,loom ,pickers and ,strapping1 ,including many varieties of ,raw ,hide ,pickers never before made in this country1 such as ,scoops1 ,centre ,scoops1 ,pressed ,centres1 ,feathered ,feet ,bows1 ,,xl ,bows1 ,all of which are a superior substitute for the ordinary ,bow ,picker4 ,sole ,manufacturers of the ,,parker ,,patent ,,drop ,,box ,,picker1 ,which is so constructed that the blow is against the edge of the hide forming the body of the ,picker4 ,these ,pickers have no plug in the ,shuttle ,strike to be driven out or worked loose1 and they are guaranteed not to break at the head4 ,also1 ,manufacturers of ,,loom ,,harnesses ,,of ,,superior ,,quality4 ,all ,harnesses are made of the very best quality of twine and stock1 and are carefully finished4 ,they are guaranteed to possess all the requirements of a superior article4 ,an ,illustrated ,catalogue giving a detailed description of our goods will be mailed on application4 ,,chas4 ,,ashoff1 ,,manufacturer ,,of ,,reeds ,,and ,,heddles1 ,and ,dealer in ,manufacturers' ,supplies1 ,nos4 #aia and #aic ,berks ,street1 ,,philadelphia1 ,,pa4 ,patent ,jacquard ,machines ,applied to any ,style or ,make of ,power ,looms1 for any ,kind of ,figured ,goods4 ,single ,lifts1 ,double ,lifts1 ,raise and ,drop ,jacquards1 ,,witch ,,motions 7,,dobby ,,machines71 ,,single ,,and ,,double-,,lift ,,heddle ,,machines4 ,,jacquard ,,card-,,stamping ,,machines4 ,illustration3 ,piano ,steam-,power ,card-,stamping ,machine1 ,for ,jacquard ,cards4 ,the speed is completely at the will of the operator1 and will punch as high as #agj strokes per minute4 ,the capacity is about double that of a foot-power machine4 ,two cards can be stamped at once4 ,illustration3 ,dobby ,card-,punching ,machine ,this machine is built for punching ,jacquard or ,dobby ,cards of the strongest pasteboard1 punching the whole card at one revolution or stroke4 ,after the keys are set1 any number of duplicates can be punched4 ,it is well constructed1 simple1 and a most effective machine4 ,illustration3 ,piano ,foot-,treading ,card-,stamping ,machine4 ,i have lately reconstructed this machine1 making it more compact by a novel and durable escapement of the rack4 ,the only successful machine ever introduced for this purpose4 ,far superior to hand lacing for regularity and durability4 ,light-running1 simple and durable4 ,can be operated by a small girl or boy4 ,illustration3 ,jacquard ,card-,lacing ,machine4 ,will lace #hjj to #bjjj cards per hour4 ,thoroughly and satisfactorily tested4 ,weighs about #ejj pounds4 ,machines now in operation and ready for the inspection of manufacturers4 ,machines placed on trial with responsible parties4 ,w4 ,p4 ,,uhlinger1 ,nos4 #ad to #cf ,canal ,street1 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 7,take red car on ,third ,street to ,frankford ,avenue and ,canal ,street47 ,knowles' ,new ,ingrain ,power ,carpet ,loom4 ,designed to meet a want long felt in the manufacture of ,ingrain ,carpets1 for a loom that should be simple in its construction1 easy of operation1 positive in its motions1 and could be run at a high rate of speed4 ,the ,,knowles ,,loom ,,works take pleasure in calling the attention of carpet manufacturers to their new ,,ingrain ,,carpet ,,loom1 as one in which all the above features are combined in such a manner as to make a loom that meets the requirements mentioned above1 and one that will be highly appreciated by manufacturers of those goods for which the loom is designed4 ,illustration ,the following are among the important features3 ,the journals on the loom are controlled by a cam motion1 or by the same efficient chain motion that is used on our ,worsted ,loom instead of the cam motion1 handling the warp with the greatest ease and calling either journal at will1 which cannot be done on other carpet looms1 thus giving a wider range of pattern and design than on other looms2 and should it be necessary to change the shading1 it can be done by changing the chain1 instead of cutting out the warp and re-drawing it4 ,the box mechanism is positive1 and controlled by a chain on the same shaft as the journals1 and may be used with the chain alone1 or with the chain in combination with the cards4 ,the motion can be run forward or reversed at will1 and any box called as desired1 thus giving a wide range to the shading facilities of the loom1 and any combination of colors can be produced on this loom that can be done on any #d #d box loom in the world4 ,the ,jacquard is of our own manufacture1 and of the most improved pattern4 ,great care is used in its construction1 thus making it a very efficient part of the loom1 and is driven from the same shaft as the journals and box motion1 thus working in harmony with them4 ,the take-up motion is positive1 and is very substantial and accurate1 consisting of fluted rolls1 and operated by the usual train of gearing1 while the goods are wound up on a roll below4 ,the let-off is controlled by the tension of the warp over a rocking whip roll1 operated by a cam on the bottom shaft1 held by a clamp friction1 geared to the head of the beam4 ,two filling motions are used1 one at each end of the lay1 each working independently of the other1 inside the selvedge1 so that the breakage of the weft is instantly detected1 and these motions are so combined with friction pulley and brake1 that the loom is stopped instantly 8on the pick10 and consequently1 when filling is replaced1 the loom is ready to start without loss of time in finding the pick1 or setting of ,jacquard or box motion4 ,the shuttle-smash protector1 which knocks off the loom when the shuttle does not box properly1 thus preventing what are known as 8shuttle smashes20 a shuttle check1 for easing the force of the shuttle as it enters the box2 a foot lever1 for throwing the lay back when the loom is stopped1 making it very easy for the weaver1 and the speed at which the loom can be run1 together with the features mentioned above1 combine to make this loom the best in the market for the purpose for which it is designed4 ,correspondence solicited and circulars sent on application4 ,,knowles ,,loom ,,works1 ,no4 #eg ,jackson ,street1 ,worcester1 ,mass4 ,schaum ,uhlinger1 #ajcj-ajch ,new ,market ,st41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,,manufacturers ,,of ,,ribbon1 ,,tape ,,and ,,webbing ,,looms1 ,,latest ,,improvements4 ,,new ,,patterns4 ,,lathes ,,or ,,battons1 ,for ,ribbons1 ,fringes1 ,tapes1 ,suspender and ,goring ,web1 c4 ,we construct our ,lathes on correct mechanical principles1 use only the best materials1 and produce ,,the ,,best ,,lathe ,,in ,,the ,,market4 ,write to us for estimates3 it will pay you4 ,,jacquard ,,machines1 ,with any desired number of hooks4 ,applied to any manufacture of loom4 ,harness ,tied up for all ,figured ,weaving4 ,a ,,full ,,line ,,of ,,weavers' ,,supplies3 ,mails1 ,lingoes1 ,heddles1 ,harness ,twine1 ,compart-,boards1 ,glass ,rings1 ,shuttle ,eyes1 c4 ,if you contemplate manufacturing ,figured ,goods1 write to us for information1 or send us samples of the goods you desire to make1 and we will furnish you estimates for a complete equipment1 including ,jacquard ,machines1 with harness tied-up1 designs made1 cards cut1 c4 ,fifteen years' practical experience in this line of business enables us to give our customers the ,,best ,,results with the ,,least ,,expense4 ,schaum ,uhlinger1 #ajcj-ajch ,new ,market ,st41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,,textile ,,school ,,of ,,the ,,pennsylvania ,,museum ,,and ,,school ,,of ,,industrial ,,art1 ,classrooms3 ,no4 #accf ,spring ,garden ,street1 ,s4 ,e4 ,cor4 ,broad ,spring ,garden ,sts4 ,,the ,,leading ,,textile ,,school ,,in ,,america4 ,founded in co-operation with the ,trustees of the ,penna4 ,museum and ,school of ,industrial ,art1 ,,wm4 ,,platt ,,pepper1 ,president1 by the following members of the ,philadelphia ,textile ,association3 ,thomas ,dolan ,co41 ,john ,james ,dobson1 ,william ,wood ,co41 ,william ,arrott1 ,john ,yewdall1 ,fiss1 ,banes1 ,erben ,co41 ,conyers ,button ,co41 ,george ,james ,bromley1 ,seville ,schofield1 ,alexander ,crow ,son1 ,james ,smith ,co41 ,m4 ,a4 ,furbush ,son1 ,john ,bromley ,sons1 ,thomas ,l4 ,leedom1 ,james ,doak1 ,jr4 ,co41 ,charles ,spencer ,co41 ,h4 ,becker ,co41 ,andreas ,hartel1 ,s4 ,b4 ,m4 ,fleisher1 ,grundy ,bros4 ,campion1 ,h4 ,w4 ,butterworth ,sons1 ,stead ,miller4 ,extract from ,,course ,,of ,,study for ,day ,class1 requiring three years' attendance at ,school4 ,,first ,,year',s ,,course4 ,the hand-loom1 analyzed and explained4 ,elementary principles of 8dressing0 warps2 beaming the same2 fixing of harness2 drawing-in2 reed and reed calculations1 etc41 for single cloth4 ,a general study of the nature of materials used in weaving textile fabrics2 explanation of the necessary materials and instruments used by designers4 ,weaves4--,ground or ,foundation ,weaves4 ,i4 ,plain1 or cotton weave1 and fancy figuring through color arrangements in warp and filling1 for light-weight fabrics4 ,,ii4 ,twill weaves--a1 one-sided twills2 b1 even-sided twills2 and fancy figuring with same through color arrangements in warp and filling4 ,,iii4 ,satin weaves--a1 single satins2 b1 double satins2 c1 figuring in single satins4 ,drafting ,weaves4 ,lectures1 with practical examples and rules observed4 ,derivative ,weaves4 ,basket1 rib1 and granite weaves2 steep1 curved1 broken1 skip1 corkscrew1 and fancy twills2 pointed twills and honeycomb weaves2 pique weaves1 and combinations of miscellaneous weaves4 ,standard sizes of cotton wool and worsted yarns1 with calculations4 ,picking out samples of textile fabrics constructed on single weaves1 with methods and rules employed in duplication4 ,original weaves for single cloth2 complete orders for manufacturing4 ,instrumental drawing in elementary exercises1 with instruments2 construction of plane figures2 line shading1 etc4 ,freehand drawing2 enlargement and reduction of designs2 analysis of plants for the purpose of design for textile fabrics4 ,work in color2 lectures on color harmony4 ,,second ,,year',s ,,course4 ,the power-looms analyzed and explained1 and practical weaving and fixing2 a1 the ,thos4 ,wood roller loom1 for ginghams1 shirtings1 cottonades1 dress goods1 etc42 b1 the ,crompton loom1 and c1 the ,knowles loom1 for worsted and woolen fabrics of every description2 single and double beam work4 ,double ,cloths--,study of the best methods of combining different weaves1 as3 ,designs backed with weft2 designs backed with warp2 designs backed with warp and weft2 designs for double cloth1 double faced4 ,calculation3 ascertaining the cost1 production1 etc41 of the different fabrics4 ,analyses of single cloth 7fancy71 and double cloth fabrics1 and reproduction with various changes1 as requested4 ,the ,jacquard ,machine ,analyzed and ,explained2 principles of construction and method of operation of the single lift machine2 the various modifications1 such as double lift single cylinder1 double lift double cylinder2 8laying out0 of comber-boards1 and figuring for various changes in texture2 tying-up of harness for single cloth4 ,the ,bridesburg ,clipper ,loom analyzed and explained1 and practical work on it1 with special reference to its use in connection with the double lift double cylinder ,jacquard machine for damask table-covers1 etc4 ,card-stamping machines 7,french index7 analyzed and explained1 and actual work for single cloth on the machine2 explanation of1 and practical work in card-lacing4 ,theoretical work2 designing paper with reference to the different textures of single cloth fabrics4 ,sketching of designs for single cloth1 and transferring sketch to the ,o designing paper4 ,shading of fabrics by the weave4 ,analysis of ,jacquard work for actual reproduction2 also for reproduction with various 7given7 changes4 ,study of special fabrics1 such as dress trimmings1 fringes1 etc4 ,study of processes for textile fabrics before and after weaving4 ,instrumental drawing in lettering2 drawing plans for machinery1 rooms1 mill buildings1 etc4 ,illustrating processes of weaving4 ,illustrating sectional cuts of textile fabrics1 etc4 ,freehand drawing2 sketching for the different textile fabrics on ,jacquard work4 ,work in color2 lectures 7advanced course72 practice in the use of color4 ,chemistry4 ,theory of ,chemistry applicable to the textile art4 ,,third ,,year',s ,,course4 ,the two-ply ingrain carpet machine analyzed and explained4 ,the ingrain carpet hand-loom1 and the ingrain carpet power-loom1 built by the ,m4 ,a4 ,furbush ,son ,machine ,co41 analyzed1 explained1 and practical work4 ,card-stamping machine 7,american index7 analyzed1 explained1 and practical work4 ,tying-up of ,jacquard harness 7,french index7 machines for double cloth2 three and four-ply fabrics4 ,advanced ,work for the ,harness ,loom4 ,study and practical work of cut pile fabrics--velvets1 plushes1 etc42 terry pile fabrics1 with wires and without wires2 terry and velvet pile combined4 ,astrakans1 cut1 uncut1 also cut and uncut combined4 ,chenille1 rugs1 curtains1 etc4 ,gauze fabrics1 plain1 figured1 and combined with other weaves4 ,designing for upholstery fabrics1 ,jacquard gauze1 ,brussels carpet1 tapestry carpet1 double face ,brussels carpet1 etc4 ,card-stamping on the ,french index stamping machine for two1 three1 and four-ply fabrics4 ,instrumental and freehand drawing similar to second year's course1 but for more difficult objects in textile fabrics and machinery4 ,work in color2 application of theory of harmony to dyeing4 ,chemistry4 ,theory and practice of chemistry1 including actual work in the laboratory and dyeing of fabrics4 ,t4 ,c4 ,,search1 ,chairman ,committee on ,instruction of the ,school1 and ,pres4 ,phila4 ,textile ,association4 ,the ,circular of the ,committee on ,instruction will be mailed upon application4 ,,press ,,comments4 ,a ,model ,school of ,industrial ,art4 ,we cannot1 at this time1 speak of its provisions by which drawing1 modeling1 designing1 etc41 are taught2 but we desire to call particular attention to the facilities that are offered for a practical instruction in weaving and textile design4 ,special courses are provided for teaching designing for all varieties of textile fabrics1 and its practical application to loom work4 ,as a complete course in its theoretical and practical utility we do not hesitate to say it is without an equal in ,america4 ,a school of this kind is of the highest importance to the manufacturing community that centres about ,philadelphia4--,boston ,journal of ,commerce4 ,an ,american ,textile ,school4 ,the ,textile ,department of the ,pennsylvania ,museum and ,school of ,industrial ,art clearly fulfils the requirements of a good ,textile ,school1 and the promise is that it will speedily become one of the best in the world1 as it is now decidedly the most advanced in this country4 ,pupils are taught designing for all varieties of textile fabrics1 and to make them thoroughly familiar with loom work1 so that they may be able not only to prepare their own designs1 but also to reproduce their own patterns in the cloth4 ,this institution1 by fitting young ,americans for exact scientific work in the textile industries1 will confer a huge benefit upon them and upon the nation4--,the ,textile ,record of ,america4 ,the ,textile ,department of the ,school of ,industrial ,art1 #accf ,spring ,garden ,st4 ,many scholars who have been at this school in former years are now filling responsible and profitable positions4--,the ,bulletin1 ,phila4 ,thomas ,wood ,co41 ,,fairmount ,,machine ,,works1 ,twenty-,second and ,wood ,streets1 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,,power ,,looms4 ,illustration ,patent ,bobbin ,winding ,machines4 ,patent ,cop ,winding ,machines4 ,improved ,presser ,beaming ,machines4 ,plain ,beaming ,machines4 ,improved ,reels for ,wool1 ,worsted1 ,cotton1 ,linen1 etc4 ,improved ,presser ,spoolers4 ,plain ,spoolers4 ,warp ,splitting ,machines4 ,hank ,twisting ,machines4 ,illustration ,warping ,mills with ,patent ,driving ,heads and ,improved ,hecks4 ,single and ,double ,warp ,sizing ,machines4 ,dyeing ,machines for ,warp and ,piece ,goods4 ,cradle and ,cone ,indigo ,mills4 ,fulling ,mills4 ,calendering ,machines4 ,self-acting ,wool ,scouring ,machines4 ,yarn ,bundling ,presses4 ,loom ,beam ,trucks4 ,shafting1 ,hangers1 ,pulleys1 etc4 ,adjustable ,self-oiling ,bearings4 ,patent ,friction ,pulleys4 ,improved ,cut-off ,coupling4 ,patent ,couplings4 ,patent ,loose ,pulleys4 ,gearing4 ,,elevators4 ,plans ,made and ,factories ,completely ,equipped with ,machinery4 ,mill and ,manufacturers' ,supplies4 ,,sole ,,philadelphia ,,agent ,,for ,,stoddard1 ,,lovering ,,co41 ,boston1 ,massachusetts1 and ,bradford1 ,england4 ,importers of ,english ,worsted ,machinery1 and ,hattersley ,looms1 for every class of work4 ,also1 ,pickers1 ,temples1 ,loom ,springs1 and ,white's ,picker ,leather in the side or by the strap1 ,torlotin's ,sizing2 also1 all other ,english ,supplies4 ,,also ,,agent ,,for ,,charles ,l4 ,,ireson1 ,boston1 ,massachusetts4 ,pure ,oak-tanned ,leather ,belting and ,findings1 ,wire-sewed ,belting1 and maker of ,ireson's ,patent ,self-adjusting ,leather ,link ,belting4 ,,stedman ,,smith1 ,lawrence1 ,massachusetts4 ,machinists and makers of ,machine ,castings1 and every kind of ,mill work4 ,,john ,w4 ,,barlow1 ,lawrence1 ,massachusetts4 ,bow1 ,drop ,box1 ,english ,scoop1 or other ,pickers of best quality4 ,,banning1 ,,bissell ,,co41 ,new ,york1 ,n4 ,y4 ,porcelain ,department3--,pot ,eyes1 ,steps1 ,shuttle ,eyes1 and ,pottery ,goods of every description4 ,single and ,double ,belting1 ,belt ,hooks1 ,springs1 ,temples1 ,picker and ,lace ,leather 7,coupes71 ,cleaning ,cloths1 ,belt ,dressing1 7both ,american and ,hepburn ,gale's ,english71 ,felt ,cloth1 ,porcelain ,goods1 ,fibre ,washers1 ,banding1 ,gears1 c41 c41 in stock at all times4 ,all ,supplies not in stock can be procured at once4 ,,worsted ,,mill ,,machinery ,,and ,,supplies ,a ,,specialty4 ,,david ,b4 ,,douglass1 #bja ,church ,st41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,transcriber's notes3 ,in the text version1 italics are represented by underscores1 and bold and black letter text by equals symbols4 ,superscripts are represented by and subscripts by ,missing or incorrect punctuation has been repaired4 ,inconsistent spelling and hyphenation have been left1 ,in the html version1 dittos have been replaced by the repeated text so that text alignes for easier reading4 ,in the html version1 adverts 7unless all plain text7 have been reproduced as illustrations to demonstrate layouts1 decorations and fonts4 ,the text from each illustration is given below each illustration1 unformatted4 ,the following mistakes have been noted3 p4 #i4 ,towards the end of paragraph #f1 there is an unclear word1 ,i have used 8on04 p4 #ai4 atttached changed to attached4 p4 #cc4 ,f #ajj 1 a repeat of 8hooks0 has been added4 p4 #db4 #cfbj ends in warp4 ,this adds up to #cfjj rather than #cfbj but has been left as printed p4 #df4 harness-cords #aic and #aic4 ,checking with ,fig4 ,,liii it appears to be #aic and #aid1 but left as printed4 p4 #eb4 ,b to ,c1 ,b to ,c4 ,trailing 870 removed4 p4 #eg4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,,lxxv4 is mislabeled1 there is another ,,lxxv further on and this one should be ,,lxv4 p4 #fh4 lattter changed to latter p4 #gb4 reg lar changed to regular4 p4 #gf4 arangement changed to arrangement4 p4 #gg4 ,lifte changed to ,lifts and puntuaction made consistent4 p4 #abg4 know changed to known