,,the ,,home ,,acre ,e4 ,p4 ,,roe ,,contents ,,chapter ,i ,,tree-,,planting ,,chapter ,,ii ,,fruit-,,trees ,,and ,,grass ,,chapter ,,iii ,,the ,,garden ,,chapter ,,iv ,,the ,,vineyard ,,and ,,orchard ,,chapter ,v ,,the ,,raspberry ,,chapter ,,vi ,,the ,,currant ,,chapter ,,vii ,,strawberries ,,chapter ,,viii ,,the ,,kitchen-,,garden ,,chapter ,,ix ,,the ,,kitchen-,,garden 7,concluded7 ,,chapter ,i ,,tree-,,planting ,land hunger is so general that it may be regarded as a natural craving4 ,artificial modes of life1 it is true1 can destroy it1 but it is apt to reassert itself in later generations4 ,to tens of thousands of bread-winners in cities a country home is the dream of the future1 the crown and reward of their life-toil4 ,increasing numbers are taking what would seem to be the wiser course1 and are combining rural pleasures and advantages with their business4 ,as the questions of rapid transit are solved1 the welfare of children will turn the scale more and more often against the conventional city house or flat4 ,a home ,,can be created in rented dwellings and apartments2 but a home for which we have the deed1 a cottage surrounded by trees1 flowers1 lawn1 and garden1 is the refuge which best satisfies the heart4 ,by means of such a suburban nook we can keep up our relations with ,nature and all her varied and health-giving life4 ,the tired man returning from business finds that his excited brain will not cease to act4 ,he can enjoy restoring rest in the complete diversion of his thoughts2 he can think of this tree or that plant1 and how he can fill to advantage unoccupied spaces with other trees1 flowers1 and vegetables4 ,if there is a ,jersey cow to welcome him with her placid trust1 a good roadster to whinny for an airing1 and a flock of chickens to clamor about his feet for their supper1 his jangling nerves will be quieted1 in spite of all the bulls and bears of ,wall ,street4 ,best of all1 he will see that his children have air and space in which to grow naturally1 healthfully4 ,his fruit-trees will testify to his wisdom in providing a country home4 ,for instance1 he will observe that if sound plums are left in contact with stung and decaying specimens1 they too will be infected2 he will see that too close crowding renders the prospect for good fruit doubtful2 and1 by natural transition of thought1 will be glad that his boys and girls are not shut in to the fortuitous associations of hall-way and street4 ,the area of land purchased will depend largely on the desires and purse of the buyer2 but about one acre appears to satisfy the majority of people4 ,this amount is not so great that the business man is burdened with care1 nor is its limit so small that he is cramped and thwarted by line fences4 ,if he can give to his bit of ,eden but little thought and money1 he will find that an acre can be so laid out as to entail comparatively small expense in either the one or the other2 if he has the time and taste to make the land his play-ground as well as that of his children1 scope is afforded for an almost infinite variety of pleasing labors and interesting experiments4 ,when we come to co-work with ,nature1 all we do has some of the characteristics of an experiment4 ,the labor of the year is a game of skill1 into which also enter the fascinating elements of apparent chance4 ,what a tree1 a flower1 or vegetable bed will give1 depends chiefly upon us2 yet all the vicissitudes of dew1 rain1 frost1 and sun1 have their part in the result4 ,we play the game with ,nature1 and she will usually let us win if we are not careless1 ignorant1 or stupid4 ,she keeps up our zest by never permitting the game to be played twice under the same conditions4 ,we can no more carry on our garden this season precisely as we did last year than a captain can sail his ship exactly as he did on the preceding voyage4 ,a country home makes even the weather interesting2 and the rise and fall of the mercury is watched with scarcely less solicitude than the mutations of the market4 ,in this chapter and in those which may ensue ,i merely hope to make some useful suggestions and give practical advice--the result of experience1 my own and others'--which the reader may carry out and modify according to his judgment4 ,we will suppose that an acre has been bought2 that it is comparatively level1 with nothing of especial value upon it--in brief1 that the home and its surroundings are still to be created4 ,it is not within my design to treat of the dwelling1 its architecture1 etc41 but we shall have something to say further on in regard to its location4 ,before purchasing1 the most careful investigations should be made as to the healthfulness of the region and the opportunities for thorough drainage4 ,having bought the acre1 the question of removing all undue accumulations of water on or beneath the surface should be attended to at first4 ,the dry appearance of the soil during much of the year may be misleading4 ,it should be remembered that there are equinoctial storms and melting snows4 ,superabundant moisture at every period should have channels of immediate escape1 for moisture in excess is an injury to plant as well as to family life2 while thoroughly and quickly drained land endures drought far better than that which is rendered heavy and sour by water stagnating beneath the surface4 ,tile-drains are usually the cheapest and most effective2 but if there are stones and rocks upon the place1 they can be utilized and disposed of at the same time by their burial in ditches--and they should be covered so deeply that a plow1 although sunk to the beam1 can pass over them4 ,tiles or the top of a stone drain should be at least two feet below the surface4 ,if the ground of the acre is underlaid with a porous subsoil1 there is usually an adequate natural drainage4 ,making haste slowly is often the quickest way to desired results4 ,it is the usual method to erect the dwelling first1 and afterward to subdue and enrich the ground gradually4 ,this in many instances may prove the best course2 but when it is practicable1 ,i should advise that building be deferred until the land 7with the exception of the spaces to be occupied with the house and barn7 can be covered with a heavy dressing of barnyard manure1 and that this be plowed under in the autumn4 ,such general enriching of the soil may seem a waste in view of the carriage-drive and walks yet to be laid out2 but this will not prove true4 ,it should be remembered that while certain parts of the place are to be kept bare of surface-vegetation1 they nevertheless will form a portion of the root-pasturage of the shade and fruit trees4 ,the land1 also1 can be more evenly and deeply plowed before obstructions are placed upon it1 and roots1 pestiferous weeds1 and stones removed with greatest economy4 ,moreover1 the good initial enriching is capital1 hoarded in the soil1 to start with4 ,on many new places ,i have seen trees and plants beginning a feeble and uncertain life1 barely existing rather than growing1 because their roots found the soil like a table with dishes but without food4 ,if the fertilizer is plowed under in the autumn1 again mixed with the soil by a second plowing in the spring1 it will be decomposed and ready for immediate use by every rootlet in contact with it4 ,now1 as farmers say1 the land is in good heart1 and it will cheer its owner's heart to see the growth promptly made by whatever is properly planted4 ,instead of losing time1 he has gained years4 ,suppose the acre to have been bought in ,september1 and treated as ,i have indicated1 it is ready for a generous reception of plants and trees the following spring4 ,possibly at the time of purchase the acre may be covered with coarse grass1 weeds1 or undergrowth of some kind4 ,in this case1 after the initial plowing1 the cultivation for a season of some such crop as corn or potatoes may be of great advantage in clearing the land1 and the proceeds of the crop would partially meet expenses4 ,if the aim is merely to subdue and clean the land as quickly as possible1 nothing is better than buckwheat1 sown thickly and plowed under just as it comes into blossom4 ,it is the nature of this rampart-growing grain to kill out everything else and leave the soil light and mellow4 ,if the ground is encumbered with many stones and rocks1 the question of clearing it is more complicated4 ,they can be used1 and often sold to advantage1 for building purposes4 ,in some instances ,i have seen laboring-men clear the most unpromising plots of ground by burying all rocks and stones deeply beneath the surface--men1 too1 who had no other time for the task except the brief hours before and after their daily toil4 ,i shall give no distinct plan for laying out the ground4 ,the taste of the owner1 or more probably that of his wife1 will now come into play4 ,their ideas also will be modified by many local circumstances--as1 for instance1 the undulations of the land1 if there are any2 proximity to neighbors1 etc4 ,if little besides shade and lawn is desired1 this fact will have a controlling influence2 if1 on the other hand1 the proprietor wishes to make his acre as productive as possible1 the house will be built nearer the street1 wider open space will be left for the garden1 and fruit-trees will predominate over those grown merely for shade and beauty4 ,there are few who would care to follow a plan which many others had adopted4 ,indeed1 it would be the natural wish of persons of taste to impart something of their own individuality to their rural home2 and the effort to do this would afford much agreeable occupation4 ,plates giving the elevation and arrangement of country homes can be studied by the evening lamp2 visits to places noted for their beauty1 simplicity1 and good taste will afford motives for many a breezy drive2 while useful suggestions from what had been accomplished by others may repay for an extended journey4 ,such observations and study will cost little more than an agreeable expenditure of time2 and surely a home is worth careful thought4 ,it then truly becomes ,,your home--something that you have evolved with loving effort4 ,dear thoughts of wife and children enter into its very materiality2 walks are planned with a loving consciousness of the feet which are to tread them1 and trees planted with prophetic vision of the groups that will gather beneath the shade4 ,this could scarcely be true if the acre were turned over to architect1 builders1 and landscape-gardeners1 with an agreement that you should have possession at a specified time4 ,we will suppose that it is early spring1 that the ground has received its second plowing1 and that the carriage-drive and the main walks have been marked out on paper1 or1 better still1 on a carefully considered map4 ,there is now so much to do that one is almost bewildered2 and the old saying1 ,rome was not built in a day1 is a good thing to remember4 ,an orderly succession of labor will bring beauty and comfort in good time1 especially if essential or foundation labors are first well performed4 ,few things will prove more satisfactory than dry1 hard1 smooth carriage-roads and walks4 ,these1 with their curves1 can be carefully staked out1 the surface-earth between the stakes to the depth of four or five inches carted to the rear of the place near the stable1 or the place where the stable is to be4 ,of the value of this surface-soil we shall speak presently1 and will merely remark in passing that it is amply worth the trouble of saving4 ,its removal leaves the beds of the driveway and walks depressed several inches below the surrounding surface4 ,fill these shallow excavations with little stones1 the larger in the bottom1 the smaller on top1 and cover all with gravel4 ,you now have roads and walks that will be dry and hard even in oozy ,march1 and you can stroll about your place the moment the heaviest shower is over4 ,the greater first cost will be more than made good by the fact that scarcely a weed can start or grow on pathways thus treated4 ,all they will need is an occasional rounding up and smoothing with a rake4 ,while this labor is going on you can begin the planting of trees4 ,to this task ,i would earnestly ask careful attention4 ,your house can be built in a summer2 but it requires a good part of a century to build the best trees into anything like perfection4 ,the usual tendency is to plant much too closely4 ,observe well-developed trees1 and see how wide a space they require4 ,there is naturally an eager wish for shade as soon as possible1 and a desire to banish from surroundings an aspect of bareness4 ,these purposes can1 it is true1 often be accomplished by setting out more trees at first than could mature1 and by taking out one and another from time to time when they begin to interfere with each other's growth4 ,one symmetrical1 noble tree1 however1 is certainly worth more than a dozen distorted1 misshapen specimens4 ,if given space1 every kind of tree and shrub will develop its own individuality2 and herein lies one of their greatest charms4 ,if the oak typifies manhood1 the drooping elm is equally suggestive of feminine grace1 while the sugar-maple1 prodigal of its rich juices1 tasselled bloom1 and winged seeds1 reminds us of wholesome1 cheerful natures4 ,even when dying1 its foliage takes on the earliest and richest hues of autumn4 ,the trees about our door become in a sense our companions4 ,they appeal to the eye1 fancy1 and feelings of different people differently4 ,therefore ,i shall leave the choice of arboreal associates to those who are to plant them--a choice best guided by observation of trees4 ,why should you not plant those you like the best1 those which are the most congenial8 ,a few suggestions1 however1 may be useful4 ,i would advise the reader not to be in too great haste to fill up his grounds4 ,while there are trees to which his choice reverts almost instantly1 there are probably many other beautiful varieties with which he is not acquainted4 ,if he has kept space for the planting of something new every spring and fall1 he has done much to preserve his zest in his rural surroundings1 and to give a pleasing direction to his summer observation4 ,he is ever on the alert to discover trees and shrubs that satisfy his taste4 ,during the preparation of this book ,i visited the grounds of ,mr4 ,a4 ,s4 ,fuller1 at ,kidgewood1 ,n4 ,j41 and for an hour or two ,i broke the tenth commandment in spite of myself4 ,i was surrounded by trees from almost every portion of the northern temperate zone1 from ,oregon to ,japan2 and in ,mr4 ,fuller ,i had a guide whose sympathy with his arboreal pets was only equalled by his knowledge of their characteristics4 ,all who love trees should possess his book entitled ,practical ,forestry4 ,if it could only be put into the hands of law-makers1 and they compelled to learn much of its contents by heart1 they would cease to be more or less conscious traitors to their country in allowing the destruction of forests4 ,they might avert the verdict of the future1 and prevent posterity from denouncing the irreparable wrong which is now permitted with impunity4 ,the ,arnolds of to-day are those who have the power to save the trees1 yet fail to do so4 ,japan appears to be doing as much to adorn our lawns and gardens as our drawing-rooms2 and from this and other foreign lands much that is beautiful or curious is coming annually to our shores4 ,at the same time ,i was convinced of the wisdom of ,mr4 ,fuller's appreciation of our native trees4 ,in few instances should we have to go far from home to find nearly all that we wanted in beautiful variety--maples1 dogwoods1 scarlet and chestnut oaks1 the liquid-amber1 the whitewood or tulip-tree1 white birch1 and horn-beam1 or the hop-tree2 not to speak of the evergreens and shrubs indigenous to our forests4 ,perhaps it is not generally known that the persimmon1 so well remembered by old campaigners in ,virginia1 will grow readily in this latitude4 ,there are forests of this tree around ,paterson1 ,n4 ,j41 and it has been known to endure twenty-seven degrees below zero4 ,it is a handsome tree at any season1 and its fruit in ,november caused much straggling from our line of march in the ,south4 ,then there is our clean-boled1 graceful beech1 whose smooth white bark has received so many tender confidences4 ,in the neighborhood of a village you will rarely find one of these trees whereon is not linked the names of lovers that have sat beneath the shade4 ,indeed ,i have found mementoes of trysts or rambles deep in the forest of which the faithful beech has kept the record until the lovers were old or dead4 ,on an immense old beech in ,tennessee there is an inscription which1 while it suggests a hug1 presents to the fancy an experience remote from a lover's embrace4 ,it reads1 ,d4 ,boone cilled bar on tree4 ,there is one objection to the beech which also lies against the white oak--it does not drop its leaves within the space of a few autumn days4 ,the bleached foliage is falling all winter long1 thus giving the ground near an untidy aspect4 ,with some1 the question of absolute neatness is paramount2 with others1 leaves are clean dirt1 and their rustle in the wind does not cease to be music even after they have fallen4 ,speaking of native trees and shrubs1 we shall do well to use our eyes carefully during our summer walks and drives2 for if we do1 we can scarcely fail to fall in love with types and varieties growing wild4 ,they will thrive just as well on the acre if properly removed4 ,in a sense they bring the forest with them1 and open vistas at our door deep into the heart of ,nature4 ,the tree is not only a thing of beauty in itself1 but it represents to the fancy all its wild haunts the world over4 ,in gratifying our taste for native trees we need not confine ourselves to those indigenous to our own locality4 ,from the nurseries we can obtain specimens that beautify other regions of our broad land2 as1 for instance1 the ,kentucky yellow-wood1 the papaw1 the ,judas-tree1 and1 in the latitude of ,new ,jersey and southward1 the holly4 ,in many instances the purchaser of the acre may find a lasting pleasure in developing a specialty4 ,he may desire to gather about him all the drooping or weeping trees that will grow in his latitude1 or he may choose to turn his acre largely into a nut-orchard1 and delight his children with a harvest which they will gather with all the zest of the frisky red squirrel4 ,if one could succeed in obtaining a bearing tree of ,hale's paper-shell hickory-nut1 he would have a prize indeed4 ,increasing attention is given to the growing of nut-trees in our large nurseries1 and there would be no difficulty in obtaining a supply4 ,in passing from this subject of choice in deciduous trees and shrubs1 ,i would suggest1 in addition to visits to woods and copse1 to the well-ornamented places of men who have long gratified a fine taste in this respect1 that the reader also make time to see occasionally a nursery like that of ,s4,b4 ,parsons ,co41 at ,flushing1 ,n4,y4 ,there is no teaching like that of the eyes2 and the amateur who would do a bit of landscape-gardening about his own home learns what he would like and what he can do by seeing shrubs and trees in their various stages of growth and beauty4 ,i shall treat the subject of evergreens at the close of this chapter4 ,as a rule1 ,i have not much sympathy with the effort to set out large trees in the hope of obtaining shade more quickly4 ,the trees have to be trimmed up and cut back so greatly that their symmetry is often destroyed4 ,they are also apt to be checked in their growth so seriously by such removal that a slender sapling1 planted at the same time1 overtakes and passes them4 ,i prefer a young tree1 straight-stemmed1 healthy1 and typical of its species or variety4 ,then we may watch its rapid natural development as we would that of a child4 ,still1 when large trees can be removed in winter with a great ball of frozen earth that insures the preservation of the fibrous roots1 much time can be saved4 ,it should ever be remembered that prompt1 rapid growth of the transplanted tree depends on two things--plenty of small fibrous roots1 and a fertile soil to receive them4 ,it usually happens that the purchaser employs a local citizen to aid in putting his ground in order4 ,in every rural neighborhood there are smart men--smart is the proper adjective2 for they are neither sagacious nor trustworthy1 and there is ever a dismal hiatus between their promises and performance4 ,such men lie in wait for newcomers1 to take advantage of their inexperience and necessary absence4 ,they will assure their confiding employers that they are beyond learning anything new in the planting of trees--which is true1 in a sinister sense4 ,they will leave roots exposed to sun and wind--in brief1 pay no more attention to them than a baby-farmer would bestow on an infant's appetite2 and then1 when convenient1 thrust them into a hole scarcely large enough for a post4 ,they expect to receive their money long before the dishonest character of their work can be discovered4 ,the number of trees which this class of men have dwarfed or killed outright would make a forest4 ,the result of a well-meaning yet ignorant man's work might be equally unsatisfactory4 ,therefore1 the purchaser of the acre should know how a tree should be planted1 and see to it himself2 or he should by careful inquiry select a man for the task who could bring testimonials from those to whom he had rendered like services in the past4 ,the hole destined to receive a shade or fruit tree should be at least three feet in diameter and two feet deep4 ,it then should be partially filled with good surface soil1 upon which the tree should stand1 so that its roots could extend naturally according to their original growth4 ,good fine loam should be sifted through and over them1 and they should not be permitted to come in contact with decaying matter or coarse1 unfermented manure4 ,the tree should be set as deeply in the soil as it stood when first taken up4 ,as the earth is thrown gently through and over the roots it should be packed lightly against them with the foot1 and water1 should the season be rather dry and warm1 poured in from time to time to settle the fine soil about them4 ,the surface should be levelled at last with a slight dip toward the tree1 so that spring and summer rains may be retained directly about the roots4 ,then a mulch of coarse manure is helpful1 for it keeps the surface moist1 and its richness will reach the roots gradually in a diluted form4 ,a mulch of straw1 leaves1 or coarse hay is better than none at all4 ,after being planted1 three stout stakes should be inserted firmly in the earth at the three points of a triangle1 the tree being its centre4 ,then by a rope of straw or some soft material the tree should be braced firmly between the protecting stakes1 and thus it is kept from being whipped around by the wind4 ,should periods of drought ensue during the growing season1 it would be well to rake the mulch one side1 and saturate the ground around the young tree with an abundance of water1 and the mulch afterward spread as before4 ,such watering is often essential1 and it should be thorough4 ,unskilled persons usually do more harm than good by their half-way measures in this respect4 ,speaking of trees1 it may so happen that the acre is already in forest4 ,then1 indeed1 there should be careful discrimination in the use of the axe4 ,it may be said that a fine tree is in the way of the dwelling4 ,perhaps the proposed dwelling is in the way of the tree4 ,in ,england the work of groving1 or thinning out trees1 is carried to the perfection of a fine art4 ,one shudders at the havoc which might be made by a stolid laborer4 ,indeed1 to nearly all who could be employed in preparing a wooded acre for habitation1 a tree would be looked upon as little more than so much cord-wood or lumber4 ,if ,i had a wooded acre ,i should study the trees most carefully before coming to any decision as to the situation of the dwelling and out-buildings4 ,having removed those obviously unworthy to remain1 ,i should put in the axe very thoughtfully among the finer specimens1 remembering that ,i should be under the soil before ,nature could build others like them4 ,in the fitting up of this planet as the home of mankind it would appear that the ,creator regarded the coniferae1 or evergreen family1 as well worthy of attention2 for almost from the first1 according to geologists1 this family records on the rocky tablets of the earth its appearance1 large and varied development1 and its adaptation to each change in climate and condition of the globe's surface during the countless ages of preparation4 ,surely1 therefore1 he who is evolving a home on one acre of the earth's area cannot neglect a genus of trees that has been so signally honored4 ,evergreens will speedily banish the sense of newness from his grounds2 for by putting them about his door he has added the link which connects his acre with the earliest geological record of tree-planting4 ,then1 like ,diedrich ,knickerbocker1 who felt that he must trace the province of ,new ,york back to the origin of the universe1 he can look upon his coniferae and feel that his latest work is in accord with one of the earliest laws of creation4 ,i imagine1 however1 that my readers' choice of evergreens will be determined chiefly by the fact that they are always beautiful1 are easily managed1 and that by means of them beautiful effects can be created within comparatively small space4 ,on ,mr4 ,fuller's grounds ,i saw what might be fittingly termed a small parterre of dwarf evergreens1 some of which were twenty-five years old4 ,numbers of this family might be described as evergreen and gold2 for part of the perennial foliage shades off from the deepest green to bright golden hues4 ,among the group of this variety1 ,japanese in origin1 ,mr4 ,fuller showed me a sporting specimen1 which1 from some obscure and remarkable impulse1 appeared bent on producing a new and distinct type4 ,one of the branches was quite different from all the others on the tree4 ,it was pressed down and layered in the soil beneath2 when lo6 a new tree was produced1 set out beside its parent1 whom it soon surpassed in size1 beauty1 and general vigor4 ,although still maintaining its green and golden hues1 it was so distinct that no one would dream that it was but a sport from the adjacent dwarf and modest tree4 ,indeed1 it reminded one of ,beatrix ,esmond beside her gentle and retiring mother4 ,if it should not in the future emulate in caprice the fair subject of comparison1 it may eventually become one of the best-known ornaments of our lawns4 ,at present it appears nowise inclined to hide its golden light under a bushel4 ,what ,i have said about forming the acquaintance of deciduous trees and shrubs before planting to any great extent1 applies with even greater force to the evergreen1 family4 ,there is a large and beautiful variety from which to choose1 and ,i would suggest that the choice be made chiefly from the dwarf-growing kinds1 since the space of one acre is too limited for much indulgence in4 ,norway spruces1 the firs1 or pines4 ,an hour with a note-book spent in grounds like those of ,mr4 ,fuller would do more in aiding a satisfactory selection than years of reading4 ,moreover1 it should be remembered that many beautiful evergreens1 especially those of foreign origin1 are but half hardy4 ,the amateur may find that after an exceptionally severe winter some lovely specimen1 which has grown to fill a large space in his heart1 as well as on his acre1 has been killed4 ,there is an ample choice from entirely hardy varieties for every locality1 and these1 by careful inquiry of trustworthy nurserymen1 should be obtained4 ,moreover1 it should be remembered that few evergreens will thrive in a wet1 heavy soil4 ,if ,nature has not provided thorough drainage by means of a porous subsoil1 the work must be done artificially4 ,as a rule1 light but not poor soils1 and warm exposures1 are best adapted to this genus of trees4 ,i think that all authorities agree substantially that spring in our climate is the best time for the transplanting of evergreens2 but they differ between early and advanced spring4 ,the late ,mr4 ,a4 ,j4 ,downing preferred early spring2 that is1 as soon as the frost is out1 and the ground dry enough to crumble freely4 ,mr4 ,a4 ,s4 ,fuller indorses this opinion4 ,mr4 ,josiah ,hoopes1 author of a valuable work entitled ,the ,book of ,evergreens1 advises that transplanting be deferred to later spring1 when the young trees are just beginning their season's growth2 and this view has the approval of the ,hon4 ,marshall ,p4 ,wilder and ,mr4 ,s4 ,b4 ,parsons1 ,jr41 ,superintendent of ,city ,parks4 ,abundant success is undoubtedly achieved at both seasons2 but should a hot1 dry period ensue after the later planting--early ,may1 for instance--only abundant watering and diligent mulching will save the trees4 ,it should be carefully remembered that the evergreen families do not possess the vitality of deciduous trees1 and are more easily injured or killed by removal4 ,the roots of the former are more sensitive to exposure to dry air and to sunlight2 and much more certainty of life and growth is secured if the transfer can be accomplished in cloudy or rainy weather4 ,the roots should never be permitted to become dry1 and it is well also to sprinkle the foliage at the time of planting4 ,moreover1 do not permit careless workmen to save a few minutes in the digging of the trees4 ,every fibrous root that can be preserved intact is a promise of life and vigor4 ,if a nurseryman should send me an assortment of evergreens with only the large woody roots left1 ,i should refuse to receive the trees4 ,what ,i have said in opposition to the transplanting of large trees applies with greater force to evergreens4 ,mr4 ,hoopes writes3 ,an error into which many unpracticed planters frequently fall is that of planting large trees2 and it is one which we consider opposed to sound common-sense4 ,we are aware that the owner of every new place is anxious to produce what is usually known as an immediate effect1 and therefore he proceeds to plant large evergreens1 covering his grounds with great unsightly trees4 ,in almost every case of this kind the lower limbs are apt to die1 and thus greatly disfigure the symmetry of the trees4 ,young1 healthy plants1 when carefully taken up and as properly replanted1 are never subject to this disfigurement1 and are almost certain to form handsome specimens4 ,any one who has seen the beautiful pyramids1 cones1 and mounds of green into which so many varieties develop1 if permitted to grow according to the laws of their being1 should not be induced to purchase old and large trees which nurserymen are often anxious to part with before they become utterly unsalable4 ,when the evergreens reach the acre1 plant them with the same care and on the same general principles indicated for other trees4 ,let the soil be mellow and good4 ,mulch at once1 and water abundantly the first summer during dry periods4 ,be sure that the trees are not set any deeper in the ground than they stood before removal4 ,if the soil of the acre is heavy or poor1 go to the roadside or some old pasture and find rich light soil with which to fill in around the roots4 ,if no soil can be found without a large proportion of clay1 the addition of a little sand1 thoroughly mixed through it1 is beneficial4 ,the hole should be ample in size1 so that the roots can be spread out according to their natural bent4 ,if the ground after planting needs enriching1 spread the fertilizer around the trees1 not against them1 and on the surface only4 ,never put manure on or very near the roots4 ,fine young seedling evergreens can often be found in the woods or fields1 and may be had for the asking1 or for a trifling sum4 ,dig them so as to save all the roots possible4 ,never permit these to become dry till they are safe in your own grounds4 ,aim to start the little trees under the same conditions in which you found them in ,nature4 ,if taken from a shady spot1 they should be shaded for a season or two1 until they become accustomed to sunlight4 ,this can easily be accomplished by four crotched stakes supporting a light scaffolding1 on which is placed during the hot months a few evergreen boughs4 ,very pretty and useful purposes can often be served by the employment of certain kinds of evergreens as hedges4 ,i do not like the arbitrary and stiff divisions of a small place which ,i have often seen4 ,they take away the sense of roominess1 and destroy the possibility of pretty little vistas2 but when used judiciously as screens they combine much beauty with utility4 ,as part of line fences they are often eminently satisfactory1 shutting out prying eyes and inclosing the home within walls of living green4 ,the strong-growing pines and ,norway spruce are better adapted to large estates than to the area of an acre4 ,therefore we would advise the employment of the ,american arbor vitae and of hemlock4 ,the hedge of the latter evergreen on ,mr4 ,fuller's place formed one of the most beautiful and symmetrical walls ,i have ever seen4 ,it was so smooth1 even1 and impervious that in the distance it appeared like solid emerald4 ,the ground should be thoroughly prepared for a hedge by deep plowing or by digging2 the trees should be small1 young1 of even height and size1 and they should be planted carefully in line1 according to the directions already given for a single specimen2 the ground on each side mulched and kept moist during the first summer4 ,in the autumn1 rake the mulch away and top-dress the soil on both sides for the space of two or three feet outward from the stems with well-decayed manure4 ,this protects the roots and ensures a vigorous growth the coming season4 ,allow no weeds or even grass to encroach on the young hedge until it is strong and established4 ,for the first year no trimming will be necessary beyond cutting back an occasional branch or top that is growing stronger than the others2 and this should be done in early ,october4 ,during the second season the plants should grow much more strongly2 and now the shears are needed in summer4 ,some branches and top shoots will push far beyond the others4 ,they should be cut back evenly1 and in accordance with the shape the hedge is to take4 ,the pyramidal form appears to me to be the one most in harmony with ,nature4 ,in ,october1 the hedge should receive its final shearing for the year2 and if there is an apparent deficiency of vigor1 the ground on both sides should receive another top-dressing1 after removing the summer mulch4 ,as the hedge grows older and stronger1 the principal shearing will be done in early summer1 as this checks growth and causes the close1 dense interlacing of branches and formation of foliage wherein the beauty and usefulness of the hedge consist4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,fruit-,,trees ,,and ,,grass ,it is a happy proof of our civilization that a dwelling-place1 a shelter from sun and storm1 does not constitute a home4 ,even the modest rooms of our mechanics are not furnished with useful articles merely2 ornaments and pictures appear quite as indispensable4 ,out-of-doors the impulse to beautify is even stronger2 and usually the purchaser's first effort is to make his place attractive by means of trees and shrubs that are more than useful--they are essential2 because the refined tastes of men and women to-day demand them4 ,in the first chapter ,i endeavored to satisfy this demand in some degree1 and now will ask the reader's attention to a few practical suggestions in regard to several of the fruits which best supply the family need4 ,we shall find1 however1 that while ,nature is prodigal in supplying what appeals to the palate and satisfies hunger1 she is also like a graceful hostess who decks her banquet with all the beauty that she can possibly bestow upon it4 ,we can imagine that the luscious fruits of the year might have been produced in a much more prosaic way4 ,indeed1 we are at a loss to decide which we value the more1 the apple-blossoms or the apples which follow4 ,nature is not content with bulk1 flavor1 and nutriment1 but in the fruit itself so deftly pleases the eye with every trick of color and form that the hues and beauty of the flower are often surpassed4 ,we look at a red-cheeked apple or purple cluster of grapes hesitatingly1 and are loth to mar the exquisite shadings and perfect outlines of the vessel in which the rich juices are served4 ,therefore1 in stocking the acre with fruit1 the proprietor has not ceased to embellish it2 and should he decide that fruit-trees must predominate over those grown for shade and ornament only1 he can combine almost as much beauty as utility with his plan4 ,all the fruits may be set out both in the spring and the fall seasons2 but in our latitude and northward1 ,i should prefer early spring for strawberries and peaches4 ,by this time we may suppose that the owner of the acre has matured his plans1 and marked out the spaces designed for the lawn1 garden1 fruit trees1 vines1 etc4 ,fruit trees1 like shade trees1 are not the growth of a summer4 ,therefore there is natural eagerness to have them in the ground as soon as possible1 and they can usually be ordered from the same nursery1 and at the same time with the ornamental stock4 ,i shall speak first of apples1 pears1 and cherries1 and ,i have been at some pains to secure the opinions of eminent horticulturists as to the best selections of these fruits for the home table1 not for market4 ,when there is a surplus1 however1 there will be no difficulty in disposing of the fine varieties named4 ,the ,hon4 ,marshall ,p4 ,wilder1 the veteran ,president of the ,american ,pomological ,society1 writes as follows3 ,herewith is the selection ,i have made for family use2 but ,i could put in as many more in some of the classes which are just as desirable1 or nearly so4 ,these have been made with reference to covering the seasons4 ,apples--,red ,astrakhan1 ,porter1 ,gravenstein1 ,rhode ,island ,greening1 ,baldwin1 ,roxbury ,russet1 and ,sweet ,bough for baking4 ,pears--,clapp's ,favorite 7to be gathered ,august #bj71 ,bartlett1 ,seckel1 ,sheldon1 ,beurre ,bosc1 ,buerre d',anjou1 and ,vicar of ,winkfield for baking1 etc4 ,cherries--,black ,eagle1 ,black ,tartarian1 ,downer1 ,windsor1 ,cumberland1 and ,red ,jacket4 ,mr4 ,wilder's honored name1 like that of the late ,charles ,downing1 is inseparably linked with ,american fruits1 and the country owes these two men a debt of gratitude which never can be paid for their lifelong and intelligent efforts to guide the people wisely in the choice and culture of the very best varieties4 ,a moment's thought will convince the reader that ,i am not giving too much space to this matter of selection4 ,we are now dealing with questions which wide and varied experience can best answer4 ,men who give their lives to the cultivation and observation of fruits in all their myriad varieties acquire a knowledge which is almost invaluable4 ,we cannot afford to put out trees1 to give them good culture1 and wait for years1 only to learn that all our care has been bestowed on inferior or second-rate varieties4 ,life is too brief4 ,we all feel that the best is good enough for us2 and the best usually costs no more in money or time than do less desirable varieties4 ,therefore ,i seek to give on this important question of choice the opinions of some of the highest authorities in the land4 ,mr4 ,a4 ,s4 ,fuller is not only a well-known horticultural author1 but has also had the widest experience in the culture and observation of fruit4 ,he prefaces his opinion with the following words3 ,how much and how often we horticulturists have been puzzled with questions like yours6 ,if we made no progress1 were always of the same mind1 and if seasons never changed1 then perhaps there would be little difficulty in deciding which of the varieties of the different kinds of fruit were really the best4 ,but seasons1 our tastes1 and even the varieties sometimes change2 and our preferences and opinions must vary accordingly4 ,apples--,early ,harvest1 ,fall ,pippins1 ,spitzenburgh1 ,rhode ,island ,greening1 ,autumn ,sweet ,bough1 and ,talman's ,sweet4 ,cherries--,early ,purple ,guigne1 ,bigarreau of ,mezel1 ,black ,eagle1 ,coe's ,transparent1 ,governor ,wood1 and ,belle ,magnifique4 ,the choice of ,mr4 ,e4 ,s4 ,carmen1 editor of the ,rural ,new ,yorker3 ,apples--,early ,harvest1 ,gravenstein1 ,jefferis1 ,baldwin1 ,mother1 ,spitzenburgh4 ,pears--,seckel1 ,tyson1 ,clapp's ,favorite1 ,bartlett1 ,beurre d',anjou1 and ,dana's ,hovey4 ,cherries--,black ,tartarian1 ,coe's ,transparent1 ,governor ,wood1 ,mezel1 ,napoleon ,bigarreau4 ,the authorities appear to differ4 ,and so they would in regard to any locality2 but it should be remembered that ,president ,wilder advises for the latitude of ,massachusetts1 ,messrs4 ,fuller and ,carmen for that of ,new ,jersey4 ,i will give now the selection of the eminent horticulturist ,mr4 ,p4 ,o4 ,berckmans for the latitude of ,georgia3 ,cherries 7this is not a good cherry-producing region1 but ,i name the following as the best in order of merit7--,buttners1 ,governor ,wood1 ,belle de ,choisy1 ,early ,richmond1 and ,may ,duke4 ,pears 7in order of maturity7--,clapp's ,favorite1 ,seckel1 ,duchesse1 ,beurre ,superfine1 ,leconte1 ,winter ,nellis1 or ,glout4 ,morceau4 ,apples--,early ,harvest1 ,red ,june1 ,carter's ,blue1 ,stevenson's ,winter1 ,shockley1 ,buncombe1 ,carolina ,greening4 ,he who makes his choice from these selections will not meet with much disappointment4 ,i am aware1 however1 that the enjoyment of fruit depends much upon the taste of the individual2 and who has a better right to gratify his taste than the man who buys1 sets out1 and cares for the trees8 ,some familiar kind not in favor with the fruit critics1 an old variety that has become a dear memory of boyhood1 may be the best one of all for him--perhaps for the reason that it recalls the loved faces that gathered about the wide1 quaint fireplace of his childhood's home4 ,it is also a well-recognized fact that certain varieties of fruit appear to be peculiarly adapted to certain localities4 ,because a man has made a good selection on general principles1 he need not be restricted to this choice4 ,he will soon find his trees growing lustily and making large branching heads4 ,each branch can be made to produce a different kind of apple or pear1 and the kindred varieties of cherries will succeed on the same tree4 ,for instance1 one may be visiting a neighbor who gives him some fruit that is unusually delicious1 or that manifest great adaptation to the locality4 ,as a rule the neighbor will gladly give scions which1 grafted upon the trees of the ,home ,acre1 will soon begin to yield the coveted variety4 ,this opportunity to grow different kinds of fruit on one tree imparts a new and delightful interest to the orchard4 ,the proprietor can always be on the lookout for something new and fine1 and the few moments required in grafting or budding make it his4 ,the operation is so simple and easy that he can learn to perform it himself1 and there are always plenty of adepts in the rural vicinage to give him his initial lesson4 ,while he will keep the standard kinds for his main supply1 he can gratify his taste and eye with some pretty innovations4 ,i know of an apple-tree which bears over a hundred varieties4 ,a branch1 for instance1 is producing ,yellow ,bell-flowers4 ,at a certain point in its growth where it has the diameter of a man's thumb it may be grafted with the ,red ,baldwin4 ,when the scion has grown for two or three years1 its leading shoots can be grafted with the ,roxbury ,russet1 and eventually the terminal bough of this growth with the ,early ,harvest4 ,thus may be presented the interesting spectacle of one limb of a tree yielding four very distinct kinds of apples4 ,in the limited area of an acre there is usually not very much range in soil and locality4 ,the owner must make the best of what he has bought1 and remedy unfavorable conditions1 if they exist1 by skill4 ,it should be remembered that peaty1 cold1 damp1 spongy soils are unfit for fruit-trees of any kind4 ,we can scarcely imagine1 however1 that one would buy land for a home containing much soil of this nature4 ,a sandy loam1 with a subsoil that dries out so quickly that it can be worked after a heavy rain1 is the best for nearly all the fruit-trees1 especially for cherries and peaches4 ,therefore in selecting the ground1 be sure it is well drained4 ,if the acre has been enriched and plowed twice deeply1 as ,i have already suggested1 little more is necessary in planting than to excavate a hole large enough to receive the roots spread out in their natural positions4 ,should no such thorough and general preparation have been made1 or if the ground is hard1 poor1 and stony1 the owner will find it to his advantage to dig a good-sized hole three or four feet across and two deep1 filling in and around the tree with fine rich surface soil4 ,if he can obtain some thoroughly decomposed compost or manure1 for instance1 as the scrapings of a barnyard1 or rich black soil from an old pasture1 to mix with the earth beneath and around the roots1 the good effects will be seen speedily2 but in no instance should raw manure from the stable1 or anything that must decay before becoming plant food1 be brought in contact with the roots4 ,again ,i repeat my caution against planting too deeply--one of the commonest and most fatal errors4 ,let the tree be set about as deeply as it stood before removal4 ,if the tree be planted early in spring1 as it should be1 there will be moisture enough in the soil2 but when planting is delayed until the ground has become rather dry and warm1 a pail of water poured about its roots when the hole has been nearly filled will be beneficial4 ,now that the tree is planted1 any kind of coarse manure spread to the depth of two or three inches on the surface as a mulch is very useful4 ,stake at once to protect against the winds4 ,do not make the common mistake of planting too closely4 ,observe the area shaded by fully grown trees1 and you will learn the folly of crowding4 ,moreover1 dense shade about the house is not desirable4 ,there should be space for plenty of air and sunshine4 ,the fruit from one well-developed tree will often more than supply a family2 for ten or fifteen barrels of apples is not an unusual yield4 ,the standard apples should be thirty feet apart4 ,pears1 the dwarfer-growing cherries1 plums1 etc41 can be grown in the intervening spaces4 ,in ordering from the nurseries insist on straight1 shapely1 and young trees1 say three years from the bud4 ,many trees that are sent out are small enough1 but they are old and stunted4 ,also require that there should be an abundance of fibrous and unmutilated roots4 ,because the young trees come from the nursery unpruned1 do not leave them in that condition4 ,before planting1 or immediately after1 cut back all the branches at least one-half2 and where they are too thick1 cut out some altogether4 ,in removal the tree has lost much of its root power1 and it is absurd to expect it to provide for just as much top as before4 ,in many books on fruit-culture much space has been given to dwarf pears1 apples1 and cherries1 and trees of this character were planted much more largely some years ago than they are at present4 ,the pear is dwarfed by grafting it on the quince2 the apple can be limited to a mere garden fruit-tree in size by being grown on a ,doucin stock1 or even reduced to the size of a bush if compelled to draw its life through the roots of the ,paradise4 ,these two named stocks1 much employed by ,european nurserymen1 are distinct species of apples1 and reproduce themselves without variation from the seed4 ,the cherry is dwarfed by being worked on the ,mahaleb--a small1 handsome tree1 with glossy1 deep-green foliage1 much cultivated abroad as an ornament of lawns4 ,except in the hands of practiced gardeners1 trees thus dwarfed are seldom satisfactory1 for much skill and care are required in their cultivation4 ,their chief advantages consist in the fact that they bear early and take but little space4 ,therefore they may be considered worthy of attention by the purchasers of small places4 ,those who are disposed to make pets of their trees and to indulge in horticultural experiments may derive much pleasure from these dwarfs1 for they can be developed into symmetrical pyramids or graceful1 fruitful shrubs within the limits of a garden border4 ,when the seeds of ordinary apples and pears are sown they produce seedlings1 or free stocks1 and upon these are budded or grafted the fine varieties which compose our orchards4 ,they are known as standard trees2 they come into bearing more slowly1 and eventually attain the normal size familiar to us all4 ,standard cherries are worked on seedlings of the ,mazzard1 which ,barry describes as a lofty1 rapid-growing1 pyramidal-headed tree4 ,i should advise the reader to indulge in the dwarfs very charily1 and chiefly as a source of fairly profitable amusement4 ,it is to the standards that he will look for shade1 beauty1 and abundance of fruit4 ,since we have been dwelling on the apple1 pear1 and cherry1 there are certain advantages of continuing the subject in the same connection1 giving the principles of cultivation and care until the trees reach maturity4 ,during the first summer an occasional watering may be required in long periods of drought4 ,in many instances buds will form and start along the stem of the tree1 or near the roots4 ,these should be rubbed off the moment they are detected4 ,one of our chief aims is to form an evenly balanced1 open1 symmetrical head2 and this can often be accomplished better by a little watchfulness during the season of growth than at any other time4 ,if1 for instance1 two branches start so closely together that one or the other must be removed in the spring pruning1 why let the superfluous one grow at all8 ,it is just so much wasted effort4 ,by rubbing off the pushing bud or tender shoot the strength of the tree is thrown into the branches that we wish to remain4 ,thus the eye and hand of the master become to the young tree what instruction1 counsel1 and admonition are to a growing boy1 with the difference that the tree is easily and certainly managed when taken in time4 ,the study of the principles of growth in the young trees can be made as pleasing as it is profitable1 for the readiness with which they respond to a guiding hand will soon invest them with almost a human interest4 ,a child will not show neglect more certainly than they2 and if humored and allowed to grow after their own fashion1 they will soon prove how essential are restraint and training4 ,a fruit tree is not like one in a forest--a simple1 unperverted product of ,nature4 ,it is a result of human interference and development2 and we might just as reasonably expect our domestic animals to take care of themselves as our grafted and budded trees4 ,moreover1 they do not comply with their raison d'etre by merely existing1 growing1 and propagating their kind4 ,a ,bartlett pear-tree1 like a ,jersey cow1 is given place for the sake of its delicious product4 ,it is also like the cow in requiring judicious feeding and care4 ,trees left to themselves tend to form too much wood1 like the grape-vine4 ,of course fine fruit is impossible when the head of a tree is like a thicket4 ,the growth of unchecked branches follows the terminal bud1 thus producing long naked reaches of wood devoid of fruit spurs4 ,therefore the need of shortening in1 so that side branches may be developed4 ,when the reader remembers that every dormant bud in early spring is a possible branch1 and that even the immature buds at the axil of the leaves in early summer can be forced into immediate growth by pinching back the leading shoot1 he will see how entirely the young tree is under his control4 ,these simple facts and principles are worth far more to the intelligent man than any number of arbitrary rules as to pruning4 ,reason and observation soon guide his hand in summer or his knife in ,march--the season when trees are usually trimmed4 ,beyond shortening in leading branches and cutting out crossing and interfering boughs1 so as to keep the head symmetrical and open to light and air1 the cherry does not need very much pruning4 ,if with the lapse of years it becomes necessary to take off large limbs from any fruit-tree1 the authorities recommend early ,june as the best season for the operation4 ,it will soon be discovered--quite likely during the first summer--that fruit-trees have enemies1 that they need not only cultivation and feeding1 but also protection4 ,the pear1 apple1 and quince are liable to one mysterious disease which it is almost impossible to guard against or cure--the fireblight4 ,of course there have been innumerable preventives and cures recommended1 just as we see a dozen certain remedies for consumption advertised in any popular journal2 but the disease still remains a disheartening mystery1 and is more fatal to the pear than to its kindred fruits4 ,i have had thrifty young trees1 just coming into bearing1 suddenly turn black in both wood and foliage1 appearing in the distance as if scorched by a blast from a furnace4 ,in another instance a large mature tree was attacked1 losing in a summer half its boughs4 ,these were cut out1 and the remainder of the tree appeared healthy during the following summer1 and bore a good crop of fruit4 ,the disease often attacks but a single branch or a small portion of a tree4 ,the authorities advise that everything should be cut away at once below all evidence of infection and burned4 ,some of my trees have been attacked and have recovered2 others were apparently recovering1 but died a year or two later4 ,one could theorize to the end of a volume about the trouble4 ,i frankly confess that ,i know neither the cause nor the remedy4 ,it seems to me that our best resource is to comply with the general conditions of good and healthy growth4 ,the usual experience is that trees which are fertilized with wood-ashes and a moderate amount of lime and salt1 rather than with stimulating manures1 escape the disease4 ,if the ground is poor1 however1 and the growth feeble1 barnyard manure or its equivalent is needed as a mulch4 ,the apple-blight is another kindred and equally obscure disease4 ,no better remedy is known than to cut out the infected part at once4 ,in coping with insects we can act more intelligently1 and therefore successfully4 ,we can study the characters of our enemies1 and learn their vulnerable points4 ,the black and green aphides1 or plant-lice1 are often very troublesome4 ,they appear in immense numbers on the young and tender shoots of trees1 and by sucking their juices check or enfeeble the growth4 ,they are the milch-cows of ants1 which are usually found very busy among them4 ,nature apparently has made ample provision for this pest1 for it has been estimated that one individual in five generations might be the progenitor of six thousand millions4 ,they are easily destroyed1 however4 ,mr4 ,barry1 of the firm of ,ellwanger ,barry1 in his excellent work ,the ,fruit ,garden1 writes as follows3 ,our plan is to prepare a barrel of tobacco juice by steeping stems for several days1 until the juice is of a dark brown color2 we then mix this with soap-suds4 ,a pail is filled1 and the ends of the shoots1 where the insects are assembled1 are bent down and dipped in the liquid4 ,one dip is enough4 ,such parts as cannot be dipped are sprinkled liberally with a garden-syringe1 and the application repeated from time to time1 as long as any of the aphides remain4 ,the liquid may be so strong as to injure the foliage2 therefore it is well to test it on one or two subjects before using it extensively4 ,apply it in the evening4 ,the scaly aphis or bark-louse attacks weak1 feeble-growing trees1 and can usually be removed by scrubbing the bark with the preparation given above4 ,in our region and in many localities the apple-tree borer is a very formidable pest1 often destroying a young tree before its presence is known4 ,i once found a young tree in a distant part of my place that ,i could push over with my finger4 ,in ,june a brown and white striped beetle deposits its eggs in the bark of the apple-tree near the ground4 ,the larvae when hatched bore their way into the wood1 and will soon destroy a small tree4 ,they cannot do their mischief1 however1 without giving evidence of their presence4 ,sawdust exudes from the holes by which they entered1 and there should be sufficient watchfulness to discover them before they have done much harm4 ,i prefer to cut them out with a sharp1 pointed knife1 and make sure that they are dead2 but a wire thrust into the hole will usually pierce and kill them4 ,wood-ashes mounded up against the base of the tree are said to be a preventive4 ,in the fall they can be spread1 and they at least make one of the best of fertilizers4 ,the codling-moth1 or apple-worm1 is another enemy that should be fought resolutely1 for it destroys millions of bushels of fruit4 ,in the latitude of ,new ,york ,state this moth begins its depredations about the middle of ,june4 ,whatever may be thought of the relation of the apple to the fall of man1 this creature certainly leads to the speedy fall of the apple4 ,who has not seen the ground covered with premature and decaying fruit in ,july1 ,august1 and ,september8 ,bach specimen will be found perforated by a worm-hole4 ,the egg has been laid in the calyx of the young apple1 where it soon hatches into a small white grub1 which burrows into the core1 throwing out behind it a brownish powder4 ,after about three weeks of apple diet it eats its way out1 shelters itself under the scaly bark of the tree--if allowed to be scaly--or in some other hiding-place1 spins a cocoon1 and in about three weeks comes out a moth1 and is ready to help destroy other apples4 ,this insect probably constitutes one of ,nature's methods of preventing trees from overbearing2 but like some people we know1 it so exaggerates its mission as to become an insufferable nuisance4 ,the remedies recommended are that trees should be scraped free of all scales in the spring1 and washed with a solution of soft soap4 ,about the #ast of ,july1 wrap bandages of old cloth1 carpet1 or rags of any kind around the trunk and larger limbs4 ,the worms will appreciate such excellent cover1 and will swarm into these hiding-places to undergo transformation into moths4 ,therefore the wraps of rags should often be taken down1 thrown into scalding water1 dried1 and replaced4 ,the fruit as it falls should be picked up at once and carried to the pigs1 and1 when practicable1 worm-infested specimens should be taken from the trees before the worm escapes4 ,the canker-worm in those localities where it is destructive can be guarded against by bands of tar-covered canvas around the trees4 ,the moth cannot fly1 but crawls up the tree in the late autumn and during mild spells in winter1 but especially throughout the spring until ,may4 ,when1 the evil-disposed moth meets the 'tarry band he finds no thoroughfare1 and is either caught or compelled to seek some other arena of mischief4 ,we have all seen the flaunting1 unsightly abodes of the tent caterpillar and the foliage-denuded branches about them4 ,fortunately these are not stealthy enemies1 and the owner can scarcely see his acre at all without being aware of their presence4 ,he has only to look very early in the morning or late in the evening to find them all bunched up in their nests4 ,these should be taken down and destroyed4 ,cherry and pear slugs1 small1 slimy1 dark brown worms1 can be destroyed by dusting the trees with dry wood ashes or air-slacked lime4 ,field-mice often girdle young trees1 especially during the winter1 working beneath the snow4 ,unless heaps of rubbish are left here and there as shelter for these little pests1 one or two good cats will keep the acre free of them4 ,treading the snow compactly around the tree is also practiced4 ,do not let the reader be discouraged by this list of the most common enemies1 or by hearing of others4 ,after reading some medical works we are led to wonder that the human race does not speedily die out4 ,as a rule1 however1 with moderate care1 most of us are able to say1 ,i'm pretty well1 ,i thank you1 and when ailing we do not straightway despair4 ,in spite of all enemies and drawbacks1 fruit is becoming more plentiful every year4 ,if one man can raise it1 so can another4 ,be hospitable to birds1 the best of all insect destroyers4 ,put up plenty of houses for bluebirds and wrens1 and treat the little brown song-sparrow as one of your stanchest friends4 ,a brief word in regard to the quince1 and our present list of fruits is complete4 ,if the quince is cultivated after the common neglectful method1 it would better be relegated to an obscure part of the garden1 for1 left to itself1 it makes a great sprawling bush2 properly trained1 it becomes a beautiful ornament to the lawn1 like the other fruits that ,i have described4 ,only a little care1 with the judicious use of the pruning-shears1 is required to develop it into a miniature and fruitful tree1 which can be grown with a natural rounded head or in the form of a pyramid1 as the cultivator chooses4 ,it will thrive well on the same soil and under similar treatment accorded to the pear or the apple4 ,procure from a nursery straight-stemmed plants2 set them out about eight feet apart2 begin to form the head three feet from the ground1 and keep the stem and roots free from all sprouts and suckers4 ,develop the head just as you would that of an apple-tree1 shortening in the branches1 and cutting out those that interfere with each other4 ,half a dozen trees will soon give an ample supply4 ,the orange and the pear shaped are the varieties usually recommended4 ,rea's ,mammoth is also highly spoken of4 ,remember that the quince equally with the apple is subject to injury from the borer1 and the evil should be met as ,i have already described4 ,there is a natural wish to have as much grass about the dwelling as possible1 for nothing is more beautiful4 ,if there are children1 they will assuredly petition for lawn-tennis and croquet grounds4 ,i trust that their wishes may be gratified1 for children are worth infinitely more than anything else that can be grown upon the acre4 ,with a little extra care1 all the trees of which ,i have spoken can be grown in the spaces allotted to grass4 ,it is only necessary to keep a circle of space six feet in diameter--the trunk forming the centre--around the tree mellow and free from any vegetable growth whatever4 ,this gives a chance to fertilize and work the ground immediately over the roots4 ,of course vigorous fruit-trees cannot be grown in a thick sod1 while peaches and grapes require the free culture of the garden1 as will be shown hereafter4 ,in view1 however1 of the general wish for grass1 ,i have advised on the supposition that all the ornamental trees1 most of the shrubs1 and the four fruits named would be grown on the portions of the acre to be kept in lawn4 ,it may be added here that plums also will do well under the same conditions1 if given good care4 ,grass is a product that can be cultivated as truly as the most delicate and fastidious of fruits1 and ,i had the lawn is mind when ,i urged the generous initial deep plowing and enriching4 ,nothing that grows responds more promptly to good treatment than grass2 but a fine lawn cannot be created in a season1 any more than a fine tree4 ,we will suppose that the spring plantings of trees have been made with open spaces reserved for the favorite games4 ,now the ground can be prepared for grass-seed1 for it need not be trampled over any more4 ,if certain parts have become packed and hard1 they should be dug or plowed deeply again1 then harrowed and raked perfectly smooth1 and all stones1 big or little1 taken from the surface4 ,the seed may now be sown1 and it should be of thick1 fine-growing varieties1 such as are employed in ,central ,park and other pleasure-grounds4 ,mr4 ,samuel ,parsons1 ,jr41 ,superintendent of ,central ,park1 writes me3 ,the best grass-seeds for ordinary lawns are a mixture of red-top and ,kentucky blue-grass in equal parts1 with perhaps a small amount of white clover4 ,on very sandy ground ,i prefer the ,kentucky blue-grass1 as it is very hardy and vigorous under adverse circumstances4 ,having sown and raked in the seed very lightly a great advantage will be gained in passing a lawn-roller over the ground4 ,i have succeeded well in getting a good catch of grass by sowing the seed with oats1 which were cut and cured as hay as soon as the grain was what is termed in the milk4 ,the strong and quickly growing oats make the ground green in a few days1 and shelter the slower maturing grass-roots4 ,mr4 ,parsons says1 ,i prefer to sow the grass-seed alone4 ,as soon as the grass begins to grow with some vigor1 cut it often1 for this tends to thicken it and produce the velvety effect that is so beautiful4 ,from the very first the lawn will need weeding4 ,the ground contains seeds of strong growing plants1 such as dock1 plantain1 etc41 which should be taken out as fast as they appear4 ,to some the dandelion is a weed2 but not to me1 unless it takes more than its share of space1 for ,i always miss these little earth stars when they are absent4 ,they intensify the sunshine shimmering on the lawn1 making one smile involuntarily when seeing them4 ,moreover1 they awaken pleasant memories1 for a childhood in which dandelions had no part is a defective experience4 ,in late autumn the fallen leaves should be raked carefully away1 as they tend to smother the grass if permitted to lie until spring4 ,now comes the chief opportunity of the year1 in the form of a liberal top-dressing of manure from the stable4 ,if this is spread evenly and not too thickly in ,november1 and the coarser remains of it are raked off early in ,april1 the results will be astonishing4 ,a deep emerald hue will be imparted to the grass1 and the frequent cuttings required will soon produce a turf that yields to the foot like a ,persian rug4 ,any one who has walked over the plain at ,west ,point can understand the value of these regular autumnal top-dressings4 ,if the stable-manure can be composted and left till thoroughly decayed1 fine and friable1 all the better4 ,if stable-manure can not be obtained1 ,mr4 ,parsons recommends ,mapes's fertilizer for lawns4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,the ,,garden ,we now approach that part of the acre to which its possessor will probably give his warmest and most frequent thoughts--the garden4 ,if properly made and conducted1 it will yield a revenue which the wealth of the ,indies could not purchase2 for whoever bought in market the flavor of fruit and vegetables raised by one's own hands or under our own eyes8 ,sentiment does count4 ,a boy is a boy2 but it makes a vast difference whether he is our boy or not4 ,a garden may soon become a part of the man himself1 and he be a better man for its care4 ,wholesome are the thoughts and schemes it suggests2 healthful are the blood and muscle resulting from its products and labor therein4 ,even with the purse of a millionaire1 the best of the city's markets is no substitute for a garden2 for ,nature and life are here1 and these are not bought and sold4 ,from stalls and pedlers' wagons we can buy but dead and dying things4 ,the indolent epicure's enjoyment of game is not the relish of the sportsman who has taken his dinner direct from the woods and waters4 ,i am often told1 ,it is cheaper to buy fruit and vegetables than to raise them4 ,i have nothing to say in reply4 ,there are many cheap things that we can have2 experience has proved that one of the ,,best things to have is a garden1 either to work in or to visit daily when the season permits4 ,we have but one life to live here1 and to get the cheapest things out of it is a rather poor ambition4 ,there are multitudes who can never possess an acre1 more or less1 and who must obtain ,nature's products at second hand4 ,this is not so great a misfortune as to have no desire for her companionship1 or wish to work under her direction in dewy mornings and shadowy evenings4 ,we may therefore reasonably suppose that the man who has exchanged his city shelter for a rural home looks forward to the garden with the natural1 primal instinct1 and is eager to make the most of it in all its aspects4 ,then let us plunge in medias res at once4 ,the ideal soil for a garden is a mellow1 sandy loam1 underlaid with a subsoil that is not too open or porous4 ,such ground is termed grateful1 and it is not the kind of gratitude which has been defined as a lively appreciation of favors to come1 which is true of some other soils4 ,this ideal land remembers past favors2 it retains the fertilizers with which it has been enriched1 and returns them in the form of good crops until the gift is exhausted2 therefore it is a thrifty as well as a grateful soil4 ,the owner can bring it up to the highest degree of fertility1 and keep it there by judicious management4 ,this sandy loam--,nature's blending of sand and clay--is a safe bank4 ,the manure incorporated with it is a deposit which can be drawn against in fruit and vegetables1 for it does not leach away and disappear with one season's rains4 ,light1 thin1 sandy soil1 with a porous or gravelly subsoil1 is of a very different type1 and requires different treatment4 ,it is a spendthrift4 ,no matter how much you give it one year1 it very soon requires just so much more4 ,you can enrich it1 but you can't keep it rich4 ,therefore you must manage it as one would take care of a spendthrift1 giving what is essential at the time1 and in a way that permits as little waste as possible4 ,i shall explain this treatment more fully further on4 ,in the choice of a garden plot you may be restricted to a stiff1 tenacious1 heavy clay4 ,now you have a miser to deal with--a soil that retains1 but in many cases makes no proper use of1 what it receives4 ,skill and good management1 however1 can improve any soil1 and coax luxuriant crops from the most unpropitious4 ,we will speak first of the ideal soil already mentioned1 and hope that the acre contains an area of it of suitable dimensions for a garden4 ,what should be the first step in this case8 ,why1 to get more of it4 ,a quarter of an acre can be made equal to half an acre4 ,you can about double the garden1 without adding to it an inch of surface1 by increasing the depth of good soil4 ,for instance1 ground has been cultivated to the depth of six or seven inches4 ,try the experiment of stirring the soil and enriching it one foot downward1 or eighteen inches1 or even two feet1 and see what vast differences will result4 ,with every inch you go down1 making all friable and fertile1 you add just so much more to root pasturage4 ,when you wish to raise a great deal1 increase your leverage4 ,roots are your levers2 and when they rest against a deep fertile soil they lift into the air and sunshine products that may well delight the eyes and palate of the most fastidious4 ,we suggest that this thorough deepening1 pulverization1 and enriching of the soil be done at the start1 when the plow can be used without any obstructions4 ,if there are stones1 rocks1 roots1 anything which prevents the treatment which a garden plot should receive1 there is a decided advantage in clearing them all out at the beginning4 ,last fall ,i saw a half-acre that was swampy1 and so encumbered with stones that one could walk all over it without stepping off the rocks4 ,the land was sloping1 and therefore capable of drainage4 ,the proprietor put three men to work on the lower side with picks1 shovels1 and blasting-tools4 ,they turned the soil over to the depth of eighteen inches1 taking out every stone larger than a walnut4 ,eight or ten feet apart deep ditches were cut1 and the stones1 as far as possible1 placed in these4 ,the rest were carted away for a heavy wall4 ,you may say it was expensive work4 ,so it was2 yet so complete a garden spot was made that ,i believe it would yield a fair interest in potatoes alone4 ,i relate this instance to show what can be done4 ,a more forbidding area for a garden in its original state could scarcely be found4 ,enough vegetables and fruit can be raised from it hereafter1 with annual fertilizing1 to supply a large family1 and it will improve every year under the refining effects of frost1 sun1 and cultivation4 ,it should be remembered that culture does for soil what it does for men and women4 ,it mellows1 brings it up1 and renders it capable of finer products4 ,much1 indeed1 can be done with a crude piece of land in a single year when treated with the thoroughness that has been suggested1 and some strong-growing vegetables may be seen at their best during the first season2 but the more delicate vegetables thrive better with successive years of cultivation4 ,no matter how abundantly the ground may be enriched at first1 time and chemical action are required to transmute the fertilizers into the best forms of plant-food1 and make them a part of the very soil itself4 ,plowing or spading1 especially if done in late autumn1 exposes the mould to the beneficial action of the air and frost1 and the garden gradually takes on the refined1 mellow1 fertile character which distinguishes it from the ordinary field4 ,in dealing with a thin1 sandy soil1 one has almost to reverse the principles just given4 ,yet there is no cause for discouragement4 ,fine results1 if not the best1 can be secured4 ,in this case there is scarcely any possibility for a thorough preparation of the soil from the start4 ,it can gradually be improved1 however1 by making good its deficiencies1 the chief of which is the lack of vegetable mould4 ,if ,i had such soil ,i would rake up all the leaves ,i could find1 employ them as bedding for my cow and pigs 7if ,i kept any71 and spread the compost-heap resulting on the sandy garden4 ,the soil is already too light and warm1 and it should be our aim to apply fertilizers tending to counteract this defect4 ,a nervous1 excitable person should let stimulants alone1 and take good1 solid1 blood-making food4 ,this illustration suggests the proper course to be taken4 ,many a time ,i have seen action the reverse of this resulting disastrously4 ,for instance1 a man carts on his light thin soil hot fermenting manure from the horse-stable1 and plows it under4 ,seeds are planted4 ,in the moist1 cool1 early spring they make a great start1 feeling the impulse of the powerful stimulant4 ,there is a hasty and unhealthful growth2 but long before maturity the days grow long and hot1 drought comes1 and the garden dries up4 ,therefore every effort should be made to supply cool manures with staying qualities1 such as are furnished by decayed vegetable matter composted with the cleanings of the cow-stable4 ,we thus learn the value of fallen leaves1 muck from the swamp1 etc42 and they also bring with them but few seeds of noxious vegetation4 ,on the other hand1 stolid1 phlegmatic clay requires the stimulus of manure from the horse-stable4 ,it can be plowed under at once1 and left to ferment and decay in the soil4 ,the process of decomposition will tend to banish its cold1 inert qualities1 and make the ground loose1 open1 and amenable to the influences of frost1 sun1 and rain4 ,does the owner of light1 warm soils ask1 ,what1 then1 shall ,i do with my stable-manure1 since you have said that it will be an injury to my garden8 ,i have not said this--only that it will do harm if applied in its raw1 hot1 fermenting state4 ,compost it with leaves1 sod1 earth1 muck1 anything that will keep it from burning up with its own heat4 ,if you can obtain no such ingredients1 have it turned over and exposed to the air so often that it will decay without passing through a process approaching combustion4 ,when it has become so thoroughly decomposed as to resemble a fine black powder1 you have a fertilizer superior to any high-priced patent compound that can be bought4 ,further on ,i will show how it can be used both in this state and also in its crude condition on light soils with the best results4 ,it is scarcely possible to lay too much stress on this subject of fertilizers4 ,the soil of the garden-plot looks inert3 so does heavy machinery2 but apply to it the proper motive power1 and you have activity at once4 ,manure is the motive power to soil1 and it should be applied in a way and degree to secure the best results4 ,to produce some vegetables and fruits much is required2 in other growths1 very little4 ,in laying out a garden there are several points to be considered4 ,the proprietor may be more desirous of securing some degree of beauty in the arrangement than of obtaining the highest condition of productiveness4 ,if this be true1 he may plan to make down its centre a wide1 gravelled walk1 with a grape-arbor here and there1 and fruit-trees and flowers in borders on each side of the path4 ,so far from having any objection to this arrangement1 ,i should be inclined to adopt it myself4 ,it would be conducive to frequent visits to the garden and to lounging in it1 especially if there be rustic seats under the arbors4 ,i am inclined to favor anything which accords with my theory that the best products of a garden are neither eaten nor sold4 ,from such a walk down the middle of the garden the proprietor can glance at the rows of vegetables and small fruits on either side1 and daily note their progress4 ,what he loses in space and crops he gains in pleasure4 ,nor does he lose much2 for if the borders on each side of the path are planted with grape-vines1 peach and plum trees1 flowers and shrubs1 the very ground he walks on becomes part of their root pasturage4 ,at the same time it must be admitted that the roots will also extend with depleting appetites into the land devoted to vegetables4 ,the trees and vines above will1 to some extent1 cast an unwholesome shade4 ,he who has set his heart on the biggest cabbages and best potatoes in town must cultivate them in ground open to the sky1 and unpervaded by any roots except their own4 ,if the general fruitfulness of the garden rather than perfection in a few vegetables is desired1 the borders1 with their trees1 vines1 and flowers1 will prove no objection4 ,moreover1 when it comes to competing in cabbages1 potatoes1 etc41 the proprietor of the ,home ,acre will find that some ,irishman1 by the aid of his redolent pig-pen1 will surpass him4 ,the roots and shade extending from his borders will not prevent him from growing good vegetables1 if not the largest4 ,we will therefore suppose that1 as the simplest and most economical arrangement1 he has adopted the plan of a walk six feet wide extending through the centre of his garden4 ,as was the case with the other paths1 it will be greatly to his advantage to stake it out and remove about four inches of the surface-soil1 piling it near the stable to be used for composting purposes or in the earth-closet4 ,the excavation thus made should be filled with small stones or cinders1 and then covered with fine gravel4 ,a walk that shall be dry at all times is thus secured1 and it will be almost wholly free from weeds4 ,in these advantages alone one is repaid for the extra first cost1 and in addition the rich surface soil obtained will double the bulk and value of the fertilizers with which it is mixed4 ,having made the walk1 borders five feet wide can be laid out on each side of it1 and the soil in these should be as rich and deep as any other parts of the garden4 ,what shall be planted in these borders will depend largely on the tastes of the gardener2 but1 as has been suggested1 there will assuredly be one or more shadowy grape-arbors under which the proprietor can retire to provide horticultural strategy4 ,this brings us to that chef-d'oeuvre of ,nature-- ,the vine4 ,it climbs by its tendrils1 and they appear to have clasped the heart of humanity4 ,among the best of ,heaven's gifts1 it has sustained the worst perversions4 ,but we will refrain from a temperance lecture2 also from sacred and classical reminiscences4 ,the world is not composed of monks who thought to escape temptation--and vainly too--in stony cells4 ,to some the purple cluster suggests ,bacchanal revelry2 to others1 sitting under one's own vine and fig-tree--in brief1 a home4 ,the vine is like woman1 the inspiration of the best and the worst4 ,it may well become one of the dreams of our life to own land1 if for no other reason than that of obtaining the privilege of planting vines4 ,as they take root1 so will we1 and after we have eaten their delicious fruit1 the very thought of leaving our acre will be repugnant4 ,the literature of the vine would fill a library2 the literature of love would crowd many libraries4 ,it is not essential to read everything before we start a little vineyard or go a-courting4 ,it is said that about two thousand known and named varieties of grapes have been and are being grown in ,europe2 and all these are supposed to have been developed from one species 7,vitis vinifera71 which originally was the wild product of ,nature1 like those growing in our thickets and forests4 ,one can scarcely suppose this possible when contemplating a cluster of ,tokay or some other highly developed variety of the hot-house4 ,yet the native vine1 which began to yield fruit after his kind1 the third day 7whatever may have been the length of that day71 may have been1 after all1 a good starting-point in the process of development4 ,one can hardly believe that the one cluster of grapes which the burdened spies1 returning from ,palestine1 bore between two of them upon a staff1 was the result of high scientific culture4 ,in that clime1 and when the world was young1 ,nature must have been more beneficent than now4 ,it is certain that no such cluster ever hung from the native vines of this land2 yet it is from our wild species1 whose fruit the ,indians shared with the birds and foxes 7when not hanging so high as to be sour71 that we have developed the delicious varieties of our out-door vineyards4 ,for about two centuries our forefathers kept on planting vines imported from ,europe1 only to meet with failure4 ,nature1 that had so abundantly rewarded their efforts abroad1 quietly checkmated them here4 ,at last ,american fruit-growers took the hint1 and began developing our native species4 ,then ,nature smiled2 and as a lure along this correct path of progress1 gave such incentives as the ,isabella1 the ,catawba1 and ,concord4 ,we are now bewildered by almost as great a choice of varieties from native species as they have abroad2 and as an aid to selection ,i will again give the verdict of some of the authorities4 ,the choice of the ,hon4 ,norman ,j4 ,colman1 ,commissioner of ,agriculture3 ,early ,victor1 ,worden1 ,martha1 ,elvira1 ,cynthiana4 ,this is for the region of ,missouri4 ,for the latitude of ,new ,jersey1 ,a4,s4 ,fuller's selection3 ,delaware1 ,concord1 ,moore's ,early1 ,antoinette 7white71 ,augusta 7white71 ,goethe 7amber74 ,e4,s4 ,carmen3 ,moore's ,early you cannot praise this too much4 ,the quality is merely that of the ,concord2 but the vines are marvels of perfect health1 the bunches large1 the berries of the largest size4 ,they ripen all at once1 and are fully ripe when the ,concord begins to color1 ,worden1 ,brighton1 ,victoria 7white71 ,niagara 7white71 ,el ,dorado4 ,this does not thrive everywhere1 but the grapes ripen early--,september #a1 or before--and the quality is perfection--white4 ,choice of ,p4,j4 ,berckman1 for the latitude of ,georgia3 ,white grapes--,peter ,wylie1 ,triumph1 ,maxatawny1 ,scuppernong4 ,bed grapes--,delaware1 ,berckman's1 ,brighton4 ,black--,concord1 ,ives4 ,as ,i have over a hundred varieties in bearing1 ,i may venture to express an opinion also4 ,i confess that ,i am very fond of those old favorites of our fathers1 the ,isabella and ,catawba4 ,they will not ripen everywhere in our latitude1 yet ,i seldom fail to secure a good crop4 ,in the fall of #ahhe we voted the ,isabella almost unsurpassed4 ,if one has warm1 well-drained soil1 or can train a vine near the south side of a building1 ,i should advise the trial of this fine old grape4 ,the ,iona1 ,brighton1 and ,agawam also are great favorites with me4 ,we regard the ,diana1 ,wyoming ,red1 ,perkins1 and ,rogers' hybrids1 ,lindley1 ,wilder1 and ,amenia1 as among the best4 ,the ,rebecca1 ,duchess1 ,lady ,washington1 and ,purity are fine white grapes4 ,i have not yet tested the ,niagara4 ,years ago ,i obtained of ,mr4 ,james ,ricketts1 the prize-taker for seedling grapes1 two vines of a small wine grape called the ,bacchus4 ,to my taste it is very pleasant after two or three slight frosts4 ,our list of varieties is long enough1 and one must be fastidious indeed who does not find some to suit his taste4 ,in many localities the chief question is1 ,what kind ,,can ,i grow8 ,in our favored region on the ,hudson almost all the out-door grapes will thrive2 but as we go north the seasons become too cool and short for some kinds1 and proceeding south the summers are too long and hot for others4 ,the salt air of the sea-coast is not conducive to vine-culture1 and only the most vigorous1 like the ,concord and ,moore's ,early1 will resist the mildew blight4 ,we must therefore do the best we can1 and that will be very well indeed in most localities4 ,because our list of good grapes is already so long1 it does not follow that we have reached the limit of development by any means4 ,when we remember that almost within a lifetime our fine varieties have been developed from the wild northern ,fox grape 7,vitis labrusca71 the ,summer grape 7oestivalis71 ,frost 7cordifolia71 we are led to think that perhaps we have scarcely more than crossed the stile which leads into the path of progress4 ,if ,i should live to keep up my little specimen vineyard ten years longer1 perhaps the greater part of the varieties now cultivated will have given place to others4 ,the delicious ,brighton requires no more space than a sour1 defective variety2 while the proprietor starts with the best kinds he can obtain1 he will find no restraint beyond his own ignorance or carelessness that will prevent his replacing the ,brighton with a variety twice as good when it is developed4 ,thus vine-planting and grape-tasting stretch away into an alluring and endless vista4 ,when such exchanges are made1 we do not recommend the grafting of a new favorite on an old vine4 ,this is a pretty operation when one has the taste and leisure for it1 and a new1 high-priced variety can sometimes be obtained speedily and cheaply in this way4 ,usually1 however1 new kinds soon drop down within the means of almost any purchaser1 and there are advantages in having each variety growing upon its own root4 ,nature yields to the skill of the careful gardener1 and permits the insertion of one distinct variety of fruit upon another2 but with the vine she does not favor this method of propagation and change1 as in the case of pears and apples1 where the graft forms a close1 tenacious union with the stock in which it is placed4 ,mr4 ,fuller writes3 ,on account of the peculiar structure of the wood of the vine1 a lasting union is seldom obtained when grafted above-ground1 and is far from being certain even when grafted below the surface1 by the ordinary method4 ,the vine is increased so readily by easy and natural methods1 to be explained hereafter1 that he who desires nothing more than to secure a good supply of grapes for the table can dismiss the subject4 ,on the other hand1 those who wish to amuse themselves by experimenting with ,nature can find abundant enjoyment in not only grafting old vines1 but also in raising new seedlings1 among which he may obtain a prize which will astonish the natives4 ,those1 however1 whose tastes carry them to such lengths in vine-culture will be sure to purchase exhaustive treatises on the subject1 and will therefore give no heed to these simple practical chapters4 ,it is my aim to enable the business man returning from his city office1 or the farmer engrossed with the care of many acres1 to learn in a few moments1 from time to time1 just what he must do to supply his family abundantly with fruits and vegetables4 ,if one is about to adopt a grape-culture as a calling1 common-sense requires that he should locate in some region peculiarly adapted to the vine4 ,if the possessor of a large farm purposes to put several acres in vineyard1 he should also aim to select a soil and exposure best suited to his purpose4 ,two thousand years ago ,virgil wrote1 ,nor let thy vineyard bend toward the sun when setting4 ,the inference is that the vines should face the east1 if possible2 and from that day to this1 eastern and southern exposures have been found the best4 ,yet climate modifies even this principle4 ,in the ,south1 ,i should plant my vineyard on a north-western slope1 or on the north side of a belt of woods1 for the reason that the long1 hot days there would cause too rapid an evaporation from the foliage of the vines1 and enfeeble1 if not kill them4 ,in the limited space of the ,home ,acre one can use only such land as he has1 and plant where he must2 but if the favorable exposures indicated exist1 it would be well to make the most of them4 ,i can mention1 however1 as encouragement to many1 that ,i saw1 last fall1 splendid grapes growing on perfectly level and sandy soil in ,new ,jersey4 ,a low-lying1 heavy1 tenacious clay is undoubtedly the worst ground in which to plant a vine2 and yet by thorough drainage1 a liberal admixture of sand1 and light fertilizers1 it can be made to produce good grapes of some varieties4 ,a light sandy soil1 if enriched abundantly with well-decayed vegetable and barnyard manures1 gives wider scope in choice of kinds2 while on the ideal well-drained sandy loam that we have described1 any outdoor grape can be planted hopefully if the garden is sufficiently removed from the seaboard4 ,as a general truth it may be stated that any land in a condition to produce a fine crop of corn and potatoes is ready for the vine4 ,this would be true of the entire garden if the suggestions heretofore made have been carried out4 ,therefore the borders which have been named are ready to receive the vines1 which may be planted in either spring or fall4 ,i prefer the fall season for several reasons4 ,the ground is usually drier then1 and crumbles more finely2 the young vine becomes well established and settled in its place by spring1 and even forms new roots before the growing season begins1 and in eight cases out of ten makes a stronger growth than follows spring planting2 it is work accomplished when there is usually the greatest leisure4 ,if the ground is ready in ,,early spring1 ,i should advise no delay4 ,a year's growth is gained by setting out the vines at once4 ,as a rule ,i do not advise late spring planting--that is1 after the buds have started on the young vines4 ,they may live1 but usually they scarcely do more1 the first year4 ,in ordering from a nursery ,i should ask for vigorous1 well-rooted two-year-old vines1 and ,i should be almost as well contented with first-class one-year-olds4 ,if any one should advertise extra large1 strong vines1 ready to bear at once1 ,i should have nothing to do with him4 ,that's a nursery trick to get rid of old stock4 ,the first year after the shock of removal a vine should not be permitted to bear at all2 and a young vigorous vine is worth a dozen old stunted ones4 ,having procured the vines1 keep them in a cool1 moist place until ready to plant4 ,never permit the roots to become dry2 and if some of them are long and naked1 shorten them to two feet1 so as to cause them to throw out side fibrous roots1 which are the true feeders4 ,excavate holes of ample size1 so that all the roots may be spread out naturally4 ,if you have reason to think the ground is not very good1 two or three quarts of fine bone-dust thoroughly mixed with the soil that is placed on and about the roots will give a fine send-off4 ,usually a good mulch of any kind of barnyard manure placed on the ,,surface after planting will answer all purposes4 ,before filling in the hole over the roots1 place beside the vine a stout stake six or seven feet high4 ,this will be all the support required the first year4 ,cut back the young vine to three buds1 and after they get well started1 let but one grow4 ,if the planting is done in the fall1 mound the earth up over the little vine at the approach of winter1 so as to cover it at least six inches below the surface4 ,in spring uncover again as soon as hard frosts are over--say early ,april in our latitude4 ,slow-growing varieties1 like the ,delaware1 may be set out six feet apart2 strong growers1 like the ,concord1 eight feet4 ,vines can not be expected to thrive under the shade of trees1 or to fight an unequal battle in ground filled with the roots of other plants4 ,vines may be set out not only in the garden borders1 but also in almost any place where their roots will not be interfered with1 and where their foliage will receive plenty of light and air4 ,how well ,i remember the old ,isabella vines that clambered on a trellis over the kitchen door at my childhood's home6 ,in this sunny exposure1 and in the reflected heat of the building1 the clusters were always the sweetest and earliest ripe4 ,a ton of grapes may be secured annually by erecting trellises against the sides of buildings1 walls1 and poultry yard1 while at the same time the screening vines furnish grateful shade and no small degree of beauty4 ,with a little petting1 such scattered vines are often enormously productive4 ,an occasional pail of soapsuds gives them a drink which eventually flushes the thickly hanging clusters with exquisite color4 ,people should dismiss from their minds the usual method of ,european cultivation1 wherein the vines are tied to short stakes1 and made to produce their fruit near the ground4 ,this method can be employed if we find pleasure in the experiment4 ,at ,mr4 ,fuller's place ,i saw fine examples of it4 ,stubby vines with stems thick as one's wrist rose about three feet from the ground1 then branched off on every side1 like an umbrella1 with loads of fruit4 ,only one supporting stake was required4 ,this method evidently is not adapted to our climate and species of grape1 since in that case plenty of keen1 practical fruit-growers would have adopted it4 ,i am glad this is true1 for the vine-clad hills of ,france do not present half so pleasing a spectacle as an ,american cornfield4 ,the vine is beautiful when grown as a vine1 and not as a stub2 and well-trained1 well-fed vines on the ,home ,acre can be developed to almost any length required1 shading and hiding with greenery every unsightly object1 and hanging their finest clusters far beyond the reach of the predatory small boy4 ,we may now consider the vines planted and growing vigorously1 as they will in most instances if they have been prepared for and planted according to the suggestions already given4 ,now begins the process of guiding and assisting ,nature4 ,left to herself1 she will give a superabundance of vine1 with sufficient fruit for purposes of propagation and feeding the birds4 ,our object is to obtain the maximum of fruit from a minimum of vine4 ,the little plant1 even though grown from a single bud1 will sprawl all over everything near it in three or four years1 if unchecked4 ,pruning may begin even before midsummer of the first year4 ,the single green shoot will by this time begin to produce what are termed laterals4 ,the careful cultivator who wishes to throw all the strength and growth into the main shoot will pinch these laterals back as soon as they form one leaf4 ,each lateral will start again from the axil of the leaf that has been left1 and having formed another leaf1 should again be cut off4 ,by repeating this process during the growing season you have a strong single cane by fall1 reaching probably beyond the top of the supporting stake4 ,in our latitude ,i advise that this single cane--that is1 the vine--be cut back to within fifteen inches of the surface when the leaves have fallen and the wood has well-ripened--say about the middle of ,november--and that the part left be bent over and covered with earth4 ,when ,i say bent over1 ,i do not mean at right angles1 so as to admit of the possibility of its being broken1 but gently and judiciously4 ,i cover with earth all my vines1 except the ,concords and ,isabellas1 just before hard freezing weather2 and even these two hardy kinds ,i weight down close to the ground4 ,i have never failed to secure a crop from vines so treated4 ,two men will protect over a hundred vines in a day4 ,in early ,april the young vine is uncovered again2 and now the two uppermost buds are allowed to grow and form two strong canes1 instead of one1 and on this new growth four or five clusters of grapes may be permitted to mature if the vine is vigorous4 ,if it is feeble1 take off all the fruit1 ,and stimulate the vine into greater vigor4 ,our aim is not to obtain half a dozen inferior clusters as soon as possible1 but to produce a vine that will eventually almost supply a family by itself4 ,if several varieties have been planted1 some will be found going ahead rampantly2 others will exhibit a feebler growth1 which can be hastened and greatly increased by enriching the surface of the soil around them and by a pail of soap-suds now and then in ,may or ,june--but not later1 unless there should be a severe drought4 ,there should be no effort to produce much growth during the latter part of the summer and early autumn1 for then both the wood and roots will be immature and unripened when frost begins1 and thus the vine receive injury4 ,for this reason it is usually best to apply fertilizers to vines in the fall2 for if given in the spring1 a late1 unhealthful growth is often produced4 ,throughout all subsequent years manure must be applied judiciously4 ,you may tell the hired man to top-dress the ground about the vines1 and he will probably treat all alike2 a vine that is already growing so strongly that it can scarcely be kept within bounds will receive as much as one that is slow and feeble in its development4 ,this is worse than waste4 ,each vine should be treated in accordance with its condition and habit of growth4 ,what would be thought of a physician who ordered a tonic for an entire family1 giving as much to one who might need depleting1 as to another who1 as country people say1 was puny and ailin'8 ,with even an assortment of half a dozen varieties we shall find after the first good start that some need a curb1 and others a spur4 ,stakes will answer as supports to the vines during the first and second seasons2 but thereafter trellises or arbors are needed4 ,the latter will probably be employed over the central walk of the garden1 and may be constructed after several simple and pretty designs1 which ,i leave to the taste of the reader4 ,if vines are planted about buildings1 fences1 etc41 trellises may be made of anything preferred--of galvanized wire1 slats1 or rustic poles fastened to strong1 durable supports4 ,if vines are to be trained scientifically in the open garden1 ,i should recommend the trellises figured on pages #abj and #adb of ,mr4 ,fuller's work1 ,the ,grape ,culturist4 ,these1 beyond anything ,i have seen1 appear the best adapted for the following out of a careful system of pruning and training4 ,such a system ,mr4 ,fuller has thoroughly and lucidly explained in the above-named book4 ,unless the reader has had experience1 or is willing to give time for the mastery of this subject1 ,i should advise that he employ an experienced gardener to prune his vines after the second year4 ,it is a brief task1 but a great deal depends upon it4 ,in selecting a man for the work ,i should require something more than exaggerated and personal assurances4 ,in every village there are terrible butchers of vines and fruit-trees1 who have some crude system of their own4 ,they are as ignorant of the true science of the subject as a quack doctor of medicine1 and1 like the dispenser of nostrums1 they claim to be infallible4 ,skilful pruning and training is really a fine art1 which cannot be learned in a day or a year4 ,it is like a surgical operation1 requiring but little time1 yet representing much acquired skill and experience4 ,in almost every locality there are trustworthy1 intelligent gardeners1 who will do this work for a small sum until the proprietor has learned the art himself1 if so inclined4 ,i should also employ the same man in spring to tie up the vines and train them4 ,if one is not ambitious to secure the best results attainable1 he can soon learn to perform both the tasks well enough to obtain fairly good fruit in abundance4 ,it should be our constant aim not to permit long1 naked reaches of wood1 in one part of the vine1 and great smothering bunches of fruit and foliage in another part4 ,of course the roots1 stem1 and leading arms should be kept free from useless shoots and sprouts2 but having reached the trellis1 the vine should be made to distribute bearing fruit-spurs evenly over it4 ,much can be learned about pruning from books and by watching an expert gardener while giving the annual pruning2 but the true science of trimming a vine is best acquired by watching buds develop1 by noting what they will do1 where they go1 and how much space they will take up in a single summer4 ,in this way one will eventually realize how much is wrapped up in the insignificant little buds1 and now great the folly of leaving too many on the vine4 ,in my next chapter ,i shall treat briefly of the propagation of the grape1 its insect enemies1 diseases1 etc42 and also of some other fruits4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,the ,,vineyard ,,and ,,orchard ,he who proposes to plant grape-vines will scarcely fail to take the sensible course of inspecting the varieties already producing fruit in his locality4 ,from causes often too obscure to be learned with certainty1 excellent kinds will prove to be well adapted to one locality1 and fail in others4 ,if1 therefore1 when calling on a neighbor during ,august1 ,september1 or ,october1 we are shown a vine producing fruit abundantly that is suited to our taste1 a vine also which manifests unmistakable vigor1 we may be reasonably sure that it belongs to a variety which we should have1 especially if it be growing in a soil and exposure somewhat similar to our garden plot4 ,a neighbor worthy of the name will be glad to give us a few cuttings from his vine at the time of its annual pruning2 and with1 very little trouble we also may soon possess the desired variety4 ,when the vine is trimmed1 either make yourself or have your friend make a few cuttings of sound wood from that season's growth4 ,about eight inches is a good length for these vine-slips1 and they should contain at least two buds4 ,let each slip be cut off smoothly just under the lowest bud1 and extend an inch or two above the uppermost bud4 ,if these cuttings are obtained in ,november or ,december1 they may be put into a little box with some of the moist soil of the garden1 and buried in the ground below the usual frost-line--say a foot or eighteen inches in our latitude4 ,the simple object is to keep them in a cool1 even temperature1 but not a frosty one4 ,early in ,april dig up the box1 open a trench in a moist but not wet part of the garden1 and insert the cuttings perpendicularly in the soil1 so that the upper bud is covered barely one inch4 ,in filling up the trench1 press the soil carefully yet firmly about the cuttings1 and spread over the surface just about them a little fine manure4 ,the cuttings should be a foot apart from each other in the row4 ,do not let the ground become dry about them at any time during the summer4 ,by fall these cuttings will probably have thrown out an abundance of roots1 and have made from two to three feet of vine4 ,in this case they can be taken up and set out where they are to fruit4 ,possibly but one or two of them have started vigorously4 ,the backward ones had better be left to grow another year in the cutting bed4 ,probably we shall not wish to cultivate more than one or two vines of the variety2 but it is just as easy to start several cuttings as one1 and by this course we guard against failure1 and are able to select the most vigorous plant for our garden4 ,by taking good care of the others we soon derive one of the best pleasures which our acre can afford--that of giving to a friend something which will enhance the productiveness of his acre1 and add to his enjoyment for years to come4 ,not only on our neighbor's grounds1 but also on our own we shall discover that some varieties are unusually vigorous1 productive1 and well-adapted to our locality2 and we may very naturally wish to have more vines of the same sort1 especially if the fruit is to our taste4 ,we can either increase this kind by cuttings1 as has been described1 or we can layer part of the vine that has won our approval by well-doing4 ,i shall take the latter course with several delicious varieties in my vineyard4 ,some kinds of grapes do not root readily as cuttings1 but there is little chance of failure in layering4 ,this process is simply the laying down of a branch of a vine in early spring1 and covering it lightly with soil1 so that some buds will be beneath the surface1 and others just at or a little above it4 ,those beneath will form roots1 the others shoots which by fall should be good vines for planting4 ,every bud that can reach the air and light will start upward1 and thus there may be a thick growth of incipient vines that will crowd and enfeeble each other4 ,the probabilities are that only two or three new vines are wanted2 therefore all the others should be rubbed off at the start1 so that the strength of the parent plant and of the new roots that are forming may go into those few shoots designed to become eventually a part of our vineyard4 ,if we wish only one vine1 then but one bud should grow from the layer2 if two vines1 then two buds4 ,the fewer buds that are permitted to grow1 the stronger vines they make4 ,it must be remembered that this layer1 for the greater part of the growing season1 is drawing its sustenance from the parent plant1 to which it is still attached4 ,therefore the other branches of this vine thus called upon for unusual effort should be permitted to fruit but sparingly4 ,we should not injure and enfeeble the original vine in order to get others like it4 ,for this reason we advise that no more buds be permitted to grow from the layer than we actually need ourselves4 ,to injure a good vine and deprive ourselves of fruit that we may have plants to give away1 is to love one's neighbor better than one's self--a thing permitted1 but not required4 ,when our vines are pruned1 we can make as many cuttings as we choose1 either to sell or give away4 ,the ground in which a layer is placed should be very rich1 and its surface round the young growing vines always kept moist and free from weeds4 ,in the autumn1 after the leaves have fallen and the wood is ripe and hard1 cut off the layered branch close to the vine1 and with a garden-fork gently and carefully lift it1 with all its roots and young vines attached1 out of the soil4 ,first cut the young vines back to three or four buds1 then separate them from the branch from which they grew1 being sure to give each plant plenty of roots1 and the roots ,,back of the point from which it grew2 that is1 those roots nearest the parent plant from which the branch was layered4 ,all the old wood of the branch that is naked1 free of roots1 should be cut off4 ,the young shoots thus separated are now independent vines1 and may be set out at once where they are to fruit4 ,if you have a variety that does not do well1 or that you do not like1 dig it out1 enrich the soil1 and put one of your favorites in its place4 ,we will now consider briefly the diseases and insect enemies of the grape4 ,a vine way be doomed to ill-health from its very situation4 ,mr4 ,hussman1 a grape-culturist of great experience and wide observation1 writes3 ,those localities may generally be considered safe for the grape in which there are no miasmatic influences4 ,where malaria and fevers prevail1 there is no safety for the crop1 as the vine seems to be as susceptible to such influences as human beings4 ,taking this statement literally1 we may well ask1 ,where1 then1 can grapes be grown8 ,according to physicians1 malaria has become one of the most generally diffused products of the country4 ,when a man asserts that it is not in his locality1 we feel sure that if pressed he will admit that it is round the corner4 ,country populations still survive1 however1 and so does grape-culture4 ,yet there are low-lying regions which from defective drainage are distinctively and1 it would almost seem1 hopelessly malarial4 ,in such localities but few varieties of the vine will thrive1 ,the people who are compelled to live there1 or who choose to do so1 should experiment until they obtain varieties so hardy and vigorous that they will triumph over everything4 ,the best course with grape-diseases is not to have them2 in other words1 to recognize the fact at once that certain varieties of the grape will not thrive and be productive of good fruit unless the soil and climate suit them4 ,the proprietor of the ,home ,acre can usually learn by a little inquiry or observation whether grapes thrive in his locality4 ,if there is much complaint of mildew1 grape-rot1 and general feebleness of growth1 he should seek to plant only the most hardy and vigorous kinds4 ,as ,i have said before1 our cultivated grapes are derived from several native species found growing wild1 and some now valued highly for wine-making are nothing but wild grapes domesticated2 as1 for instance1 ,norton's ,virginia1 belonging to the oestivalis class4 ,the original plant of this variety was found growing upon an island in the ,potomac by ,dr4 ,norton1 of ,virginia4 ,the species from which the greatest number of well-known grapes is obtained is the ,vitis labrusca1 the common wild or fox grape1 found growing in woods and thickets1 usually where the ground is moist1 from ,canada to the ,gulf4 ,the dark purple berries1 averaging about three-quarters of an inch in diameter1 ripen in ,september1 and they contain a tough1 musky pulp4 ,yet this slip of wilderness is the parent of the refined ,catawba1 the delicious ,brighton1 and the magnificent white grape ,lady ,washington--indeed1 of all the black1 red1 and white grapes with which most people are familiar4 ,our earliest grapes1 which ripen in ,august1 as well as some of the latest1 like the ,isabella1 come from the labrusca species4 ,it is said that the labrusca class will not thrive in the extreme ,south2 and with the exception of the high mountain slopes1 this appears reasonable to the student of the vine4 ,it is said that but few of this class will endure the long hot summers of ,france4 ,but there are great differences among the varieties derived from this native species4 ,for example1 the ,concord thrives almost anywhere1 while even here upon the ,hudson we can scarcely grow the ,catawba with certainty4 ,it is so good a grape1 however1 that ,i persist in making the effort1 with varying success2 but ,i should not recommend it1 or many of its class1 for those localities not specially suited to the grape4 ,i will now name a few varieties which have proved to be1 or promise to be1 the most thrifty and productive whereever grapes can be grown at all the labrusca class3 ,black--,concord1 ,wilder1 ,worden1 ,amenia1 ,early ,canada1 ,telegraph or ,christine1 ,moore's ,early4 ,red-,wyoming1 ,goethe1 ,lindley1 ,beauty1 ,brighton1 ,perkins 7pale red71 and ,agawam4 ,white--,rebecca1 ,martha1 ,alien's ,hybrid1 ,lady ,pocklington1 ,prentiss1 ,lady ,washington4 ,these are all fine grapes1 and they have succeeded throughout wide areas of country4 ,any and all are well worth a trial2 but if the grower finds that some of them are weak and diseased in his grounds1 ,i should advise that he root them out and replace them with those which thrive4 ,the ,niagara is highly praised1 and may make good all that is claimed for it4 ,of the aestivalis class ,i can recommend the ,cynthiana and the ,herbemont1 or ,warren1 for the extreme ,south4 ,both of them are black4 ,there are new varieties of this vigorous species which promise well4 ,the cordifolia species promises to furnish some fine1 hardy1 and productive grapes1 of which the ,amber is an example4 ,the ,elvira1 a pale yellow grape1 is highly praised by ,mr4 ,hussman4 ,although the ,bacchus is distinctively a wine grape1 ,i have already said that its flavor1 when fully ripe1 was agreeable to me4 ,the only difficulty in growing it is to keep the ground poor1 and use the pruning-knife freely4 ,i have enlarged on this point1 for ,i wish to direct the mind of the reader to the fact that there are many very hardy grapes4 ,i congratulate those who1 with the taste of a connoisseur1 have merely to sample until they find just the varieties that suit them1 and then to plant these kinds in their genial soil and favored locality4 ,at the same time ,i should like to prevent others from worrying along with unsatisfactory varieties1 or from reaching the conclusion that they can not grow grapes in their region or garden4 ,let them rather admit that they can not raise some kinds1 but may others4 ,if a variety were persistently diseased1 feeble1 and unproductive under good treatment1 ,i should root it out rather than continue to nurse and coddle it4 ,when mildew and grape-rot first appear1 the evil can often be remedied in part by dusting the vines with sulphur1 and continuing the process until the disease is cured1 if it ever is4 ,i have never had occasion to do this1 and will not do it4 ,a variety that often requires such nursing in this favored locality should be discarded4 ,there is one kind of disease1 or feebleness rather1 to which we are subject everywhere1 and from which few varieties are exempt4 ,it is the same kind of weakness which would be developed in a fine sound horse if we drove him until he dropped down every time we took him out4 ,cultivated vines are so far removed from their natural conditions that they will often bear themselves to death1 like a peach-tree4 ,to permit this is a true instance of avarice overreaching itself2 or the evil may result from ignorance or neglect4 ,close pruning in autumn and thinning out the crowding clusters soon after they have formed is the remedy4 ,if a vine had been so enfeebled1 ,i should cut it back rigorously1 feed it well1 and permit it to bear very little fruit1 if any1 for a year4 ,of insect enemies we have the phylloxera of bad eminence1 which has so dismayed ,europe4 ,the man who could discover and patent an adequate remedy in ,france might soon rival a ,rothschild in his wealth4 ,the remedy abroad is also ours--to plant varieties which are phylloxera-proof1 or nearly so4 ,fortunately we have many which defy this pestiferous little root-louse1 and ,european vine-growers have been importing them by the million4 ,they are still used chiefly as stocks on which to graft varieties of the vinifera species4 ,in ,california1 grapes of the vinifera or ,european species are generally cultivated2 but the phylloxera is at its destructive work among them4 ,the wine-grapes of the future throughout the world may be developed from the hardy cestivalis and cordifolia classes4 ,in many localities1 even in this new land1 varieties like the ,delaware succumb to this scourge of foreign vineyards4 ,the aphis1 or plant-louse1 sometimes attacks the young1 tender shoots of the vine4 ,the moment they appear1 take off the shoot1 and crush it on a board with the foot4 ,leaf-rollers1 the grape-vine sphinx1 and caterpillars in general must be caught by hand and killed4 ,usually they are not very numerous4 ,the horrid little rose-chafers or rose-bugs are sometimes very destructive4 ,our best course is to take a basin of water and jar them off into it--they fall readily--and then scald them to death4 ,we may discover lady-bugs--small red or yellow and black beetles--among our vines1 and many persons1 ,i fear1 will destroy them with the rest4 ,we should take off our hats to them and wish them godspeed4 ,in their destruction of aphides and thrips they are among our best friends4 ,the camel-cricket is another active destroyer of injurious insects4 ,why do not our schools teach a little practical natural history8 ,once1 when walking in the ,catskills1 ,i saw the burly driver of a stage-load of ladies bound out of his vehicle to kill a garter-snake1 the pallid women looking on1 meanwhile1 as if the earth were being rid of some terrible and venomous thing4 ,they ought to have known that the poor little reptile was as harmless as one of their own garters1 and quite as useful in its way4 ,every country boy and girl should be taught to recognize all our helpers in our incessant fight with insect enemies--a fight which must be maintained with more organized vigor and intelligence than at present1 if horticulture is ever to reach its best development4 ,wasps and hornets often swarm about the sweet and early ripe varieties4 ,a wide-mouthed bottle partially filled with molasses and water will entrap and drown great numbers of these ugly customers4 ,some of our favorite birds try our patience not a little4 ,during the early summer ,i never wearied of watching the musical orioles flashing with their bright hues in and out of the foliage about the house2 but when the early grapes were ripe1 they took pay for their music with the sang-froid of a favorite prima donna4 ,on one occasion ,i saw three or four alight on a ,diana vine1 and in five minutes they had spoiled a dozen clusters4 ,if they would only take a bunch and eat it up clean1 one would readily share with them1 for there would be enough for all2 but the dainty little epicures puncture an indefinite number of berries1 merely taking a sip from each4 ,then the wasps and bees come along and finish the clusters4 ,the cardinal1 cat-bird1 and our unrivalled songster the wood-thrush1 all help themselves in the same wasteful fashion4 ,one can't shoot wood-thrushes4 ,we should almost as soon think of killing off our ,nilssons1 ,nevadas1 and ,carys4 ,the only thing to do is to protect the clusters2 and this can be accomplished in several ways4 ,the most expeditious and satisfactory method is to cover the vines of early grapes with cheap mosquito netting4 ,another method is to make little bags of this netting and inclose each cluster4 ,last fall1 two of my children tied up many hundreds of clusters in little paper bags1 which can be procured at wholesale for a trifling sum4 ,the two lower corners of the paper bags should be clipped off to permit the rain to pass freely through them4 ,clusters ripen better1 last longer on the vine1 and acquire a more exquisite bloom and flavor in this retirement than if exposed to light as well as to birds and wasps4 ,not the fruit but the foliage of the grape-vine needs the sun4 ,few of the early grapes will keep long after being taken from the vine2 but some of the later ones can be preserved well into the winter by putting them in small boxes and storing them where the temperature is cool1 even1 and dry4 ,some of the wine-grapes1 like ,norton's ,virginia1 will keep under these conditions almost like winter apples4 ,one ,october day ,i took a stone pot of the largest size and put in first a layer of ,isabella grapes1 then a double thickness of straw paper1 then alternate layers of grapes and paper1 until the pot was full4 ,a cloth was next pasted over the stone cover1 so as to make the pot water-tight4 ,the pot was then buried on a dry knoll below the reach of frost1 and dug up again on ,new ,year's ,day4 ,the grapes looked and tasted as if they had just been picked from the vine4 ,for the mysteries of hybridizing and raising new seedlings1 grafting1 hot-house and cold grapery culture1 the reader must look in more extended works than this1 and to writers who have had experience in these matters4 ,we shall next consider three fruits which upon the ,home ,acre may be regarded as forming a natural group-peaches1 plums1 and raspberries1 if any one expresses surprise that the last-named fruit should be given this relationship1 ,i have merely to reply that the raspberry thrives in the partial shade produced by such small trees as the peach and plum4 ,where there is need of economy of space it is well to take advantage of this fact1 for but few products of the garden give any satisfaction when contending with roots below and shade above4 ,we have taken it for granted that some grape-vines would be planted in the two borders extending through the centre of the garden1 also that there would be spaces left which might be filled with peach and plum trees and small flowering shrubs4 ,if there is to be a good-sized poultry-yard upon the acre1 we should advise that plums be planted in that2 but we will speak of this fruit later1 and now give our attention to that fruit which to the taste of many is unrivalled--the peach4 ,with the exception of the strawberry1 it is perhaps the only fruit for which ,i prefer spring planting4 ,at the same time1 ,i should not hesitate to set out the trees in autumn4 ,the ground should be good1 but not too highly fertilized4 ,i prefer young trees but one year old from the bud4 ,if set out in the fall1 ,i should mound up the earth eighteen inches about them1 to protect the roots and stem1 and to keep the tree firmly in the soil4 ,with this precaution1 ,i am not sure but that fall planting has the greater advantage1 except when the climate is very severe and subject to great alternations4 ,plant with the same care and on the same principles which have been already described4 ,if a careful system of pruning is to be adopted1 the trees may be set out twelve feet apart2 but if they are to be left to grow at will1 which ,i regret to say is the usual practice1 they should be planted fifteen feet from each other4 ,there are many good reasons why the common orchard culture of the peach should not be adopted in the garden4 ,there is no fruit more neglected and ill-treated than the beautiful and delicious peach4 ,the trees are very cheap1 usually costing but a few cents each2 they are bought by the thousand from careless dealers1 planted with scarcely the attention given to a cabbage-plant1 and too often allowed to bear themselves to death4 ,the land1 trees1 and cultivation cost so little that one good crop is expected to remunerate for all outlay4 ,if more crops are obtained1 there is so much clear gain4 ,under this slovenly treatment there is1 of course1 rapid deterioration in the stamina of the peach4 ,pits and buds are taken from enfeebled trees for the purpose of propagation1 and so tendencies to disease are perpetuated and enhanced4 ,little wonder that1 the fatal malady1 the yellows1 has blighted so many hopes6 ,i honestly believe that millions of trees have been sold in which this disease existed from the bud4 ,if fine peaches were bred and propagated with something of the same care that is bestowed on blooded stock1 the results would soon be proportionate4 ,gardeners abroad often give more care to one tree than hundreds receive here4 ,because the peach has grown so easily in our climate1 we have imposed on its good-nature beyond the limits of endurance1 and consequently it is not easy to get sound1 healthful trees that will bear year after year under the best of treatment1 as they did with our fathers with no care at all4 ,i should look to men who had made a reputation for sending out sound1 healthful stock grown under their own eyes from pits and wood which they know to be free from disease4 ,do not try to save a few pennies on the first cost of trees1 for the probabilities are that such economy will result in little more than the yellows4 ,in large orchards1 cultivated by horse-power1 the stems of the trees are usually from four to six feet high2 but in the garden this length of stem is not necessary1 and the trees can be grown as dwarf standards1 with stems beginning to branch two feet from the ground4 ,a little study of the habit of growth in the peach will show that1 to obtain the best results1 the pruning-shears are almost as essential as in the case of the grape-vine4 ,more than in any other fruit-tree1 the sap tends strongly toward the ends of the shoots4 ,left to ,nature1 only the terminal buds of these will grow from year to year2 the other buds lower down on the shoots fail and drop off4 ,thus we soon have long naked reaches of unproductive wood1 or sucker-like sprouts starting from the bark1 which are worse than useless4 ,our first aim should be to form a round1 open1 symmetrical head1 shortening in the shoots at least one-half each year1 and cutting out crossing and interlacing branches4 ,for instance1 if we decide to grow our trees as dwarf standards1 we shall cut back the stems at a point two feet from the ground the first spring after planting1 and let but three buds grow1 to make the first three or leading branches4 ,the following spring we shall cut back the shoots that have formed1 so as to make six leading branches4 ,thereafter we shall continue to cut out and back so as to maintain an open head for the free circulation of air and light4 ,to learn the importance of rigorous and careful pruning1 observe the shoots of a vigorous peach-tree1 say three or four years old4 ,these shoots or sprays are long and slender1 lined with fruit-buds4 ,you will often find two fruit-buds together1 with a leaf-bud between them4 ,if the fruit-buds have been uninjured by the winter1 they will nearly all form peaches1 far more than the slender spray can support or mature4 ,the sap will tend to give the most support to all growth at the end of the spray or branch4 ,the probable result will be that you will have a score1 more or less1 of peaches that are little beyond skin and stones4 ,by midsummer the brittle sprays will break1 or the limbs split down at the crotches4 ,you may have myriads of peaches1 but none fit for market or table4 ,thousands of baskets are sent to ,new ,york annually that do not pay the expenses of freight1 commission1 etc42 while the orchards from which they come are practically ruined4 ,i had two small trees from which1 one autumn1 ,i sold ten dollars' worth of fruit4 ,they yielded more profit than is often obtained from a hundred trees4 ,now1 in the light of these facts1 realize the advantages secured by cutting back the shoots or sprays so as to leave but three or four fruit-buds on each4 ,the tree can probably mature these buds into large1 beautiful peaches1 and still maintain its vigor4 ,by this shortening-in process you have less tree1 but more fruit4 ,the growth is directed and kept within proper limits1 and the tree preserved for future usefulness4 ,thus the peach-trees of the garden will not only furnish some of the most delicious morsels of the year1 but also a very agreeable and light phase of labor4 ,they can be made pets which will amply repay all kindness2 and the attentions they most appreciate1 strange to say1 are cutting and pinching4 ,the pruning-shears in ,march and early ,april can cut away forming burdens which could not be borne1 and pinching back during the summer can maintain beauty and symmetry in growth4 ,when the proprietor of the ,home ,acre has learned from experience to do this work judiciously1 his trees1 like the grape-vines1 will afford many hours of agreeable and healthful recreation4 ,if he regards it as labor1 one great1 melting1 luscious peach will repay him4 ,a small apple1 pear1 or strawberry usually has the flavor of a large one2 but a peach to be had in perfection must be fully matured to its limit of growth on a healthful tree4 ,let no one imagine that the shortening in of shoots recommended consists of cutting the young sprays evenly all round the trees as one would shear a hedge4 ,it more nearly resembles the pruning of the vine2 for the peach1 like the vine1 bears its fruit only on the young wood of the previous summer's growth4 ,the aim should be to have this young bearing wood distributed evenly over the tree1 as should be true of a grape-vine4 ,when the trees are kept low1 as dwarf standards1 the fruit is more within reach1 and less liable to be blown off by high winds4 ,gradually1 however1 if the trees prove healthful1 they will get high enough up in the world4 ,notwithstanding the rigorous pruning recommended1 the trees will often overload themselves2 and thinning out the young peaches when as large as hickory nuts is almost imperative if we would secure good fruit4 ,men of experience say that when a tree has set too much fruit1 if two-thirds of it are taken off while little1 the remaining third will measure and weigh more than would the entire crop1 and bring three times as much money4 ,in flavor and beauty the gain will certainly be more than double4 ,throughout its entire growth and fruiting life the peach-tree needs good cultivation1 and also a good but not overstimulated soil4 ,well-decayed compost from the cow-stable is probably the best barnyard fertilizer4 ,wood-ashes are peculiarly agreeable to the constitution of this tree1 and tend to maintain it in health and bearing long after others not so treated are dead4 ,i should advise that half a peck be worked in lightly every spring around each tree as far as the branches extend4 ,when enriching the ground about a tree1 never heap the fertilizer round the trunk1 but spread it evenly from the stem outward as far as the branches reach1 remembering that the head above is the measure of the root extension below4 ,air-slacked lime is also useful to the peach in small quantities2 and so1 no doubt1 would be a little salt from time to time4 ,bone-meal is highly recommended4 ,like other fruit-trees1 the peach does not thrive on low1 wet ground1 and the fruit-buds are much more apt to be winter-killed in such localities4 ,a light1 warm soil is regarded as the most favorable4 ,of course we can grow this fruit on espaliers1 as they do abroad2 but there are few localities where any advantage is to be derived from this course4 ,in our latitude ,i much prefer cool northern exposures1 for the reason that the fruitbuds are kept dormant during warm spells in winter1 and so late in spring that they escape injury from frost4 ,alternate freezing and thawing is more harmful than steady cold4 ,the buds are seldom safe1 however1 at any time when the mercury sinks ten or fifteen degrees below zero4 ,as we have intimated1 abuse of the peach-tree has developed a fatal disease1 known as the yellows4 ,it manifests itself in yellow1 sickly foliage1 numerous and feeble sprouts along the larger limbs and trunk1 and small miserable fruit1 ripening prematurely4 ,i can almost taste the yellows in much of the fruit bought in market4 ,some regard the disease as very contagious2 others do not4 ,it is best to be on the safe side4 ,if a tree is affected generally1 dig it out by the roots and burn it at once2 if only a branch shows evidence of the malady1 cut it off well back1 and commit it to the flames4 ,the only remedy is to propagate from trees in sound health and vigor4 ,like the apple1 the peach-tree is everywhere subject to injury from a borer1 named exitiosa1 or the destructive4 ,the eggs from which these little pests are hatched are laid by the moth during the summer upon the stem of the tree very near the root2 the grubs bore through the outer bark1 and devour the inner bark and sap-wood4 ,fortunately they soon reveal their evil work by the castings1 and by the gum which exudes from the hole by which they entered4 ,they can not do much harm1 unless a tree is neglected2 in this case1 however1 they will soon enfeeble1 and probably destroy it4 ,when once within a tree1 borers must be cut out with a sharp-pointed knife1 carefully yet thoroughly4 ,the wounds from the knife may be severe1 but the ceaseless gnawing of the grub is fatal4 ,if the tree has been lacerated to some extent1 a plaster of moistened clay or cow-manure makes a good salve4 ,keeping the borers out of the tree is far better than taking them out2 and this can be effected by wrapping the stem at the ground--two inches below the surface1 and five above--with strong hardware or sheathing paper4 ,if this is tied tightly about the tree1 the moth cannot lay its eggs upon the stem4 ,a neighbor of mine has used this protection not only on the peach1 but also on the apple1 with almost complete success4 ,of course the pests will try to find their way under it1 and it would be well to take off the wrapper occasionally and examine the trees4 ,the paper must also be renewed before it is so far decayed as to be valueless4 ,it should be remembered also that the borer will attack the trees from the first year of life to the end4 ,in order to insure an unfailing supply of this delicious fruit1 ,i should advise that a few trees be set out every spring4 ,the labor and expense are scarcely greater than that bestowed upon a cabbage patch1 and the reward is more satisfactory4 ,for this latitude the following choice of varieties will prove1 ,i think1 a good one3 ,early ,alexander1 ,early ,elvers1 ,princess of ,wales1 ,brandywine1 ,old ,mixon ,free1 ,stump the ,world1 ,picquet's ,late1 ,crawford's ,late1 ,mary's ,choice1 ,white ,free ,heath1 ,salway1 and ,lord ,palmerston4 ,if the soil of one's garden is stiff1 cold1 adhesive clay1 the peach would succeed much better budded or grafted on plum-stocks4 ,some of the finest fruit ,i have ever seen was from seedlings1 the trees having been grown from pits of unusually good peaches4 ,while the autumn planting of pits lightly in the soil and permitting them to develop into bearing trees is a pleasing and often profitable amusement1 there is no great probability that the result will be desirable4 ,we hear of the occasional prizes won in this way1 but not of the many failures4 ,by easy transition we pass to the kindred fruit the plum1 which does not generally receive the attention it deserves4 ,if one has a soil suited to it--a heavy clay or loam--it can usually be grown very easily4 ,the fruit is so grateful to the taste and useful to the housekeeper that it should be given a fair trial1 either in the garden borders or wherever a tree can be planted so as to secure plenty of light and air4 ,the young trees may be one or two years old from the bud2 ,i should prefer the former1 if vigorous4 ,never be induced to purchase old trees by promises of speedy fruit4 ,it is quite possible you may never get any fruit at all from them worth mentioning4 ,i should allow a space of from ten to fifteen feet between the trees when they are planted together1 and ,i should cut them back so that they would begin to branch at two feet from the ground4 ,long1 naked stems are subject to the gum-disease4 ,in the place of general advice in regard to this fruit ,i shall give the experience of ,mr4 ,t4 ,s4 ,force1 of ,newburgh1 who exhibited seventy varieties at the last annual ,orange ,county fair4 ,his plum-orchard is a large poultry-yard1 containing half an acre1 of which the ground is a good loam1 resting on a heavy clay subsoil4 ,he bought trees but one year from the bud1 set them out in autumn1 and cut them back so that they began to form their heads at two feet from the ground4 ,he prefers starting with strong young plants of this age1 and he did not permit them to bear for the first three years1 his primal aim being to develop a healthy1 vigorous tree with a round1 symmetrical head4 ,during this period the ground about them was kept mellow by good cultivation1 and1 being rich enough to start with1 received no fertilizers4 ,it is his belief that over-fertilization tends to cause the disease so well known as the black knot1 which has destroyed many orchards in this vicinity4 ,if the garden has been enriched as ,i have directed1 the soil will probably need little1 if anything1 from the stables1 and certainly will not if the trees are grown in a poultry-yard4 ,during this growing and forming period ,mr4 ,force gave careful attention to pruning4 ,budded trees are not even symmetrical growers1 but tend to send up a few very strong shoots that rob the rest of the tree of sustenance4 ,of course these must be cut well back in early spring1 or we have long1 naked reaches of wood and a deformed tree4 ,it is far better1 however1 not to let these rampant shoots grow to maturity1 but to pinch them back in early summer1 thus causing them to throw out side-branches4 ,by summer pinching and rubbing off of tender shoots a tree can be made to grow in any shape we desire4 ,when the trees receive no summer pruning1 ,mr4 ,force advises that the branches be shortened in at least one half in the spring1 while some shoots are cut back even more rigorously4 ,at the age of four or five years1 according to the vigor of the trees1 he permits them to bear4 ,now cultivation ceases1 and the ground is left to grow hard1 but not weedy or grassy1 beneath the boughs4 ,every spring1 just as the blossoms are falling1 he spreads evenly under the branches four quarts of salt4 ,while the trees thrive and grow fruitful with this fertilizer1 the curculio1 or plum-weevil1 does not appear to find it at all to its taste4 ,as a result of his methods1 ,mr4 ,force has grown large and profitable crops1 and his trees in the main are kept healthy and vigorous4 ,his remedy for the black knot is to cut off and burn the small boughs and twigs affected4 ,if the disease appears in the side of a limb or in the stem1 he cuts out all trace of it1 and paints the wound with a wash of gum shellac and alcohol4 ,trees load so heavily that the plums rest against one another4 ,you will often find in moist warm weather decaying specimens4 ,these should be removed at once1 that the infection may not spread4 ,in cutting out the interfering boughs1 do not take off the sharp-pointed spurs which are forming along the branches1 for on these are slowly maturing the fruit-buds4 ,in this case1 as in others1 the careful observer1 after he has acquired a few sound principles of action to start with1 is taught more by the tree itself than from any other source4 ,mr4 ,force recommends the following ten varieties1 named in the order of ripening3 ,canada2 ,orleans1 a red-cheeked plum2 ,mc,laughlin1 greenish1 with pink cheek2 ,bradshaw1 large red1 with lilac bloom2 ,smith's ,orleans1 purple2 ,green ,gage2 ,bleeker's ,gage1 golden yellow2 ,prune d',agen1 purple2 ,coe's ,golden ,drop2 and ,shropshire ,damson for preserves4 ,if we are restricted to very light soils1 we shall probably have to grow some of the native varieties1 of the ,canada and ,wild-,goose type4 ,in regard to both this fruit and peaches we should be guided in our selection by information respecting varieties peculiarly suited to the region4 ,the next chapter will treat of small fruits1 beginning with the raspberry4 ,,chapter ,v ,,the ,,raspberry ,the wide and favorable consideration given to small fruits clearly marks one of the changes in the world's history4 ,this change may seem trifling indeed to the dignified chroniclers of kings and queens and others of high descent--great descent1 it may be added1 remembering the moral depths attained2 but to those who care for the welfare of the people1 it is a mutation of no slight interest4 ,i am glad to think1 as has been shown in a recent novel1 that ,lucrezia ,borgia was not so black as she has been painted2 yet in the early days of ,june and ,july1 when strawberries and raspberries are ripening1 ,i fancy that most of us can dismiss her and her kin from mind as we observe ,nature's alchemy in our gardens4 ,when we think of the luscious1 health-imparting fruits which will grace millions of tables1 and remember that until recent years they were conspicuous only by their absence1 we may not slightingly estimate a great change for the better4 ,once these fruits were wildings which the vast majority of our forefathers shared sparingly with the birds4 ,often still1 unless we are careful1 our share will be small indeed2 for the unperverted taste of the birds discovered from the first what men have been so slow to learn--that the ruby-like berries are the gems best worth seeking4 ,the world is certainly progressing toward physical redemption when even the ,irish laborer abridges his cabbage-patch for the sake of small fruits--food which a dainty ,ariel could not despise4 ,we have said that raspberries thrive in partial shade2 and therefore some advice in regard to them naturally follows our consideration of trees4 ,because the raspberry is not so exacting as are many other products of the garden1 it does not follow that it should be marked out for neglect4 ,as it is treated on many places1 the only wonder is that even the bushes survive4 ,like many who try to do their best in adversity1 it makes the most of what people term a chance to get ahead4 ,moreover1 the raspberry is perhaps as often injured by mistaken kindness as by neglect4 ,if we can imagine it speaking for itself1 it would say3 ,it is not much that ,i want1 but in the name of common-sense and nature give me just what ,i do want2 then you may pick at me to your heart's content4 ,the first need of the raspberry is a well-drained but not a very dry1 light soil4 ,yet such is its adaptability that certain varieties can be grown on any land which will produce a burdock or a mullien-stalk4 ,in fact1 this question of variety chiefly determines our chances of success and the nature of our treatment of the fruit4 ,the reader1 at the start1 should be enabled to distinguish the three classes of raspberries grown in this country4 ,as was true of grapes1 our fathers first endeavored to supply their gardens from foreign nurseries1 neglecting the wild species with which our woods and roadsides abounded4 ,the raspberry of ,europe 7,rubus idaeus7 has been developed1 and in many instances enfeebled1 by ages of cultivation4 ,nevertheless1 few other fruits have shown equal power to adapt themselves to our soil and climate1 and we have obtained from foreign sources many valuable kinds--as1 for instance1 the ,antwerp1 which for weeks together annually taxed the carrying power of ,hudson ,river steamers4 ,in quality these foreign kinds have never been surpassed2 but almost invariably they have proved tender and fastidious1 thriving well in some localities1 and failing utterly 7except under the most skilful care7 in others4 ,the frosts of the ,north killed them in winter1 and ,southern suns shrivelled their foliage in summer4 ,therefore they were not raspberries for the million1 but for those who resided in favored regions1 and were willing to bestow upon them much care and high culture4 ,eventually another process began1 taking place either by chance or under the skilful manipulation of the gardener--that of hybridizing1 or crossing these foreign varieties with our hardier native species4 ,the best results have been attained more frequently1 ,i think1 by chance2 that is1 the bees1 which get more honey from the raspberry than from most other plants1 carried the pollen from a native flower to the blossom of the garden exotic4 ,the seeds of the fruit eventually produced were endowed with characteristics of both the foreign and native strains4 ,occasionally these seeds fell where they had a chance to grow1 and so produced a fortuitous seedling plant which soon matured into a bearing bush1 differing from1 both of its parents1 and not infrequently surpassing both in good qualities4 ,some one horticulturally inclined having observed the unusually fine fruit on the chance plant1 and believing that it is a good plan to help the fittest to survive1 marked the bush1 and in the autumn transferred it to his garden4 ,it speedily propagated itself by suckers1 or young sprouts from the roots1 and he had plants to sell or give away4 ,such1 ,i believe1 was the history of the ,cuthbert--named after the gentleman who found it1 and now probably the favorite raspberry of ,america4 ,thus fortuitously1 or by the skill of the gardener1 the foreign and our native species were crossed1 and a new and hardier class of varieties obtained4 ,the large size and richness in flavor of the ,european berry has been bred into and combined with our smaller and more insipid indigenous fruit4 ,by this process the area of successful raspberry culture has been extended almost indefinitely4 ,within recent years a third step forward has been taken4 ,some localities and soils were so unsuited to the raspberry that no variety containing even a small percentage of the foreign element could thrive4 ,this fact led fruit-growers to give still closer attention to our native species4 ,wild bushes were found here and there which gave fruit of such good quality and in such large quantities that they were deemed well worthy of cultivation4 ,many of these wild specimens accepted cultivation gratefully1 and showed such marked improvement that they were heralded over the land as of wonderful and surpassing value4 ,some of these pure1 unmixed varieties of our native species 7,rubus strigosus7 have obtained a wide celebrity2 as1 for instance1 the ,brandywine1 ,highland ,hardy1 and1 best of all1 the ,turner4 ,it should be distinctly understood1 however1 that1 with the exception of the last-named kind1 these native varieties are decidedly inferior to most of the foreign berries and their hybrids or crosses1 like the ,cuthbert and ,marlboro4 ,thousands have been misled by their praise1 and have planted them when they might just as easily have grown far better kinds4 ,i suppose that many wealthy persons in the latitudes of ,new ,york and ,boston have told their gardeners 7or more probably were told by them73 ,we do not wish any of those wild kinds4 ,brinckle's ,orange1 ,franconia1 and the ,antwerp are good enough for us4 ,so they should be1 for they are the best2 but they are all foreign varieties1 and scarcely will live at all1 much less be productive1 in wide areas of the country4 ,i trust that this preliminary discussion in regard to red raspberries will prepare the way for the advice to follow1 and enable the proprietor of the ,home ,acre to act intelligently4 ,sensible men do not like to be told1 ,you cannot do this1 and must not do that--in other words1 to be met the moment they step into their gardens by the arbitrary dictum of ,a1 ,b1 or ,c4 ,they wish to unite with ,nature in producing certain results4 ,understanding her simple laws1 they work hopefully1 confidently2 and they cannot be imposed upon by those who either wittingly or unwittingly give bad advice4 ,having explained the natural principles on which ,i base my directions1 ,i can expect the reader to follow each step with the prospect of success and enjoyment much enhanced4 ,the question first arising is1 ,what shall we plant8 ,as before1 ,i shall give the selection of eminent authorities1 then suggest to the reader the restrictions under which he should make a choice for his own peculiar soil and climate4 ,dr4 ,f4 ,m4 ,hexamer1 the well-known editor of a leading horticultural journal1 is recognized throughout the land as having few1 if any1 superiors in recent and practical acquaintance with small fruits4 ,the following is his selection3 ,cuthbert1 ,turner1 and ,marlboro4 ,the ,hon4 ,marshall ,p4 ,wilder's choice3 ,brinckle's ,orange1 ,franconia1 ,cuthbert1 ,herstine1 ,shaffer4 ,the ,hon4 ,norman ,j4 ,colman1 ,commissioner of ,agriculture3 ,turner1 ,marlboro1 ,cuthbert4 ,p4 ,j4 ,berckmans1 of ,georgia3 ,cuthbert1 ,hansel1 ,lost ,rubies1 ,imperial ,red4 ,a4 ,s4 ,fuller3 ,turner1 ,cuthbert1 ,hansel4 ,in analyzing this list we find three distinctly foreign kinds named3 the ,orange1 ,franconia1 and ,herstine4 ,if the last is not wholly of foreign origin1 the element of our native species enters into it so slightly that it will not endure winters in our latitude1 or the summer sun of the ,south4 ,for excellence1 however1 it is unsurpassed4 ,in the ,cuthbert1 ,marlboro1 and ,lost ,rubies we have hybrids of the foreign and our native species1 forming the second class referred to2 in the ,turner and ,hansel1 examples of our native species unmixed4 ,to each of these classes might be added a score of other varieties which have been more or less popular1 but they would serve only to distract the reader's attention4 ,i have tested forty or fifty kinds side by side at one time1 only to be shown that four or five varieties would answer all practical purposes4 ,i can assure the reader1 however1 that it will be scarcely possible to find a soil or climate where some of these approved sorts will not thrive abundantly and at slight outlay4 ,throughout southern ,new ,england1 along the bank of the ,hudson1 and westward1 almost any raspberry can be grown with proper treatment4 ,there are exceptions1 which are somewhat curious4 ,for instance1 the famous ,hudson ,river ,antwerp1 which until within a very few years has been one of the great crops of the ,state1 has never been grown successfully to any extent except on the west bank of the river1 and within the limited area of ,kingston on the north and ,cornwall on the south4 ,the ,franconia1 another foreign sort1 has proved itself adapted to more extended conditions of soil and climate4 ,i have grown successfully nearly every well-known raspberry1 and perhaps ,i can best give the instruction ,i desire to convey by describing the methods finally adopted after many years of observation1 reading1 and experience4 ,i will speak of the class first named1 belonging to the foreign species1 of which ,i have tested many varieties4 ,i expect to set out this year rows of ,brinckle's ,orange1 ,franconia1 ,hudson ,river ,antwerp1 and others4 ,for this class ,i should make the ground very rich1 deep1 and mellow4 ,i should prefer to set out the plants in the autumn--from the middle of ,october to the tenth of ,november2 if not then1 in early spring--the earlier the better--while the buds are dormant4 ,i should have the rows four feet apart2 and if the plants were to be grown among the smaller fruit-trees1 ,i should maintain a distance from them of at least seven feet4 ,i should use only young plants1 those of the previous summer's growth1 and set them in the ground about as deeply as they stood when taken up--say three or four inches of earth above the point from which the roots branched4 ,i should put two well-rooted plants in each hill1 and this would make the hills four feet apart each way4 ,by hills ,i do not mean elevations of ground4 ,this should be kept level throughout all future cultivation4 ,i should cut back the canes or stems of the plants to six inches4 ,thousands of plants are lost or put back in their growth by leaving two or three feet of the canes to grow the first year4 ,never do this4 ,the little fruit gained thus prematurely always entails a hundred-fold of loss4 ,having set out the plants1 ,i should next scatter over and about them one or two shovelfuls of old compost or decayed manure of some kind4 ,if the plants had been set out in the fall1 ,i should mound the earth over them before freezing weather1 so that there should be at least four inches of soil over the tops of the stems4 ,this little mound of earth over the plants or hill would protect against all injury from frost4 ,in the spring ,i should remove these mounds of earth so as to leave the ground perfectly level on all sides1 and the shortened canes projecting1 as at first1 six inches above the surface4 ,during the remainder of the spring and summer the soil between the plants chiefly requires to be kept open1 mellow1 and free from weeds4 ,in using the hoe1 be careful not to cut off the young raspberry sprouts1 on which the future crop depends4 ,do not be disappointed if the growth seems feeble the first year1 for these foreign kinds are often slow in starting4 ,in ,november1 before there is any danger of the ground freezing1 ,i should cut back the young canes at least one-third of their length1 bend them gently down1 and cover them with earth to the depth of four or five inches4 ,it must be distinctly remembered that very few of the foreign kinds would endure our winter unprotected4 ,every autumn they must be covered as ,i have directed4 ,is any one aghast at this labor8 ,nonsense6 ,antwerps are covered by the acre along the ,hudson4 ,a man and a boy would cover in an hour all that are needed for a garden4 ,after the first year the foreign varieties1 like all others1 will send up too many sprouts1 or suckers4 ,unless new plants are wanted1 these should be treated as weeds1 and only from three to five young canes be left to grow in each hill4 ,this is a very important point1 for too often the raspberry-patch is neglected until it is a mass of tangled bushes4 ,keep this simple principle in mind3 there is a given amount of root-power2 if this cannot be expended in making young sprouts all over the ground1 it goes to produce a few strong fruit-bearing canes in the hill4 ,in other words1 you restrict the whole force of the plant to the precise work required--the giving of berries4 ,as the original plants grow older1 they will show a constantly decreasing tendency to throw up new shoots1 but as long as they continue to grow1 let only those survive which are designed to bear the following season4 ,the canes of cultivated raspberries are biennial4 ,a young and in most varieties a fruitless cane is produced in one season2 it bears in ,july the second year1 and then its usefulness is over4 ,it will continue to live in a half-dying way until fall1 but it is a useless and unsightly life4 ,i know that it is contended by some that the foliage on the old canes aids in nourishing the plants2 but ,i think that1 under all ordinary circumstances1 the leaves on the young growth are abundantly sufficient4 ,by removing the old canes after they have borne their fruit1 an aspect of neatness is imparted1 which would be conspicuously absent were they left4 ,every autumn1 before laying the canes down1 ,i should shorten them in one-third4 ,the remaining two-thirds will give more fruit by actual measurement1 and the berries will be finer and larger1 than if the canes were left intact4 ,from first to last the soil about the foreign varieties should be maintained in a high degree of fertility and mellowness4 ,of manures from the barnyard1 that from the cow-stable is the best2 wood-ashes1 bone-dust1 and decayed leaves also are excellent fertilizers4 ,during all this period the partial shade of small trees will be beneficial rather than otherwise1 for it should be remembered that sheltered localities are the natural habitat of the raspberry4 ,by a little inquiry the reader can learn whether varieties of the foreign class are grown successfully in his vicinity4 ,if they are1 he can raise them also by following the directions which have been given4 ,brinckle's ,orange--a buff-colored berry--is certainly one of the most beautiful1 delicate1 and delicious fruits in existence1 and is well worth all the care it requires in the regions where it will grow2 while the ,franconia and others should never be permitted to die out by fruit connoisseurs4 ,if the soil of your garden is light and sandy1 or if you live much south of ,new ,york1 ,i should not advise their trial4 ,they may be grown far to the north1 however4 ,i am told that tender varieties of fruits that can be covered thrive even better in ,canada than with us4 ,there deep snow protects the land1 and in spring and autumn they do not have long periods when the bare earth is alternately freezing and thawing4 ,in the second class of raspberries1 the crosses between the foreign and native species1 we now have such fine varieties that no one has much cause for regret if he can raise them2 and ,i scarcely see how he can help raising them if he has sufficient energy to set out a few plants and keep them free from weeds and superabundant suckers4 ,take the ,cuthbert1 for instance2 you may set it out almost anywhere1 and in almost any latitude except that of the extreme ,southern ,states4 ,but you must reverse the conditions required for the foreign kinds4 ,if the ground is very rich1 the canes will threaten to grow out of sight4 ,i advise that this strong-growing sort be planted in rows five feet apart4 ,any ordinary soil is good enough for the ,cuthbert to start in1 and the plants will need only a moderate degree of fertilizing as they begin to lose a little of their first vigor4 ,of course1 if the ground is unusually light and poor1 it should be enriched and maintained in a fair degree of fertility4 ,the point ,i wish to make is that this variety will thrive where most others would starve2 but there is plenty of land on which anything will starve4 ,the ,cuthbert is a large1 late berry1 which continues long in bearing1 and is deserving of a place in every garden4 ,i have grown it for many years1 and have never given it any protection whatever4 ,occasionally there comes a winter which kills the canes to the ground4 ,i should perhaps explain to the reader here that even in the case of the tender foreign kinds it is only the canes that are killed by the frost2 the roots below the surface are uninjured1 and throw up vigorous sprouts the following spring4 ,the ,cuthbert is so nearly hardy that we let it take its chances1 and probably in eight winters out of ten it would stand unharmed4 ,its hardiness is greatly enhanced when grown on well-drained soils4 ,it now has a companion berry in the ,marlboro--a variety but recently introduced1 and therefore not thoroughly tested as yet4 ,its promise1 however1 is very fine1 and it has secured the strong yet qualified approval of the best fruit critics4 ,it requires richer soil and better treatment than the ,cuthbert1 and it remains to be seen whether it is equally hardy4 ,it is well worth winter protection if it is not4 ,it is not a suitable berry for the home garden if no other is grown1 for the reason that it matures its entire crop within a brief time1 and thus would give a family but a short season of raspberries4 ,cultivated in connection with the ,cuthbert1 it would be admirable1 for it is very early1 and would produce its fruit before the ,cuthberts were ripe4 ,unitedly the two varieties would give a family six weeks of raspberries4 ,there are scores of other kinds in this class1 and some are very good indeed1 well worth a place in an amateur's collection2 but the two already named are sufficient to supply a family with excellent fruit4 ,of the third class of red raspberries1 representing our pure native species1 ,i should recommend only one variety--the ,turner2 and that is so good that it deserves a place in every collection4 ,it certainly is a remarkable raspberry1 and has an unusual history1 which ,i have given in my work ,success with ,small ,fruits4 ,i doubt whether there is a hardier raspberry in ,america--one that can be grown so far to the north1 and1 what is still more in its favor1 so far to the south4 ,in the latter region it is known as the ,southern ,thornless4 ,the fact that it is almost wholly without spines is a good quality2 but it is only one among many others4 ,the ,turner requires no winter protection whatever1 will grow on almost any soil in existence1 and in almost any climate4 ,it yields abundantly medium-sized berries of good flavor4 ,the fruit begins to ripen early1 and lasts throughout a somewhat extended season4 ,it will probably give more berries1 with more certainty and less trouble1 than any other variety4 ,even its fault leans to virtue's side4 ,set out a single plant1 leave it to ,nature1 and in time it will cover the place with ,turner raspberries2 and yet it will do this in a quiet1 unobtrusive way1 for it is not a rampant1 ugly grower4 ,while it will persist in living under almost any circumstances1 ,i have found no variety that responded more gratefully to good treatment4 ,this consists simply in three things3 7#a7 rigorous restriction of the suckers to four or five canes in the hill2 7#b7 keeping the soil clean and mellow about the bearing plants2 7#c7 making this soil rich4 ,its dwarf habit of growth1 unlike that of the ,cuthbert1 enables one to stimulate it with any kind of manure4 ,by this course the size of the bushes is greatly increased1 and enormous crops can be obtained4 ,i prefer to set out all raspberries in the fall1 although as a matter of convenience ,i often perform the task in the early spring4 ,i do not believe in late spring planting1 except as one takes up a young sprout1 two or three inches high1 and sets it out as one would a tomato-plant4 ,by this course time is often saved4 ,when it is our wish to increase the quality and quantity of the fruit1 ,i should advise that the canes of all varieties be cut back one-third of their length4 ,a little observation will teach us the reason for this4 ,permit a long cane to bear throughout its natural length1 and you will note that many buds near the ground remain dormant or make a feeble growth4 ,the sap1 following a general law of nature1 pushes to the extremities1 and is1 moreover1 too much diffused4 ,cut away one-third1 and all the buds start with redoubled vigor1 while more and larger fruit is the result4 ,if1 however1 earliness in ripening is the chief consideration1 as it often is1 especially with the market-gardener1 leave the canes unpruned1 and the fruit ripens a few days sooner4 ,in purveying for the home table1 white raspberries offer the attractions of variety and beauty4 ,in the case of ,brinckle's ,orange1 its exquisite flavor is the chief consideration2 but this fastidious foreign berry is practically beyond the reach1 of the majority4 ,there is1 however1 an excellent variety1 the ,caroline1 which is almost as hardy as the ,turner1 and more easily grown4 ,it would seem that ,nature designed every one to have it 7if we may say ,,it of ,caroline71 for not only does it sucker freely like the red raspberries1 but the tips of the canes also bend over1 take root1 and form new plants4 ,the one thing that ,caroline needs is repression1 the curb2 she is too intense4 ,i am inclined to think1 however1 that she has had her day1 even as an attendant on royalty1 for a new variety1 claiming the high-sounding title of ,golden ,queen1 has mysteriously appeared4 ,i say mysteriously1 for it is difficult to account for her origin4 ,mr4 ,ezra ,stokes1 a fruit-grower of ,new ,jersey1 had a field of twelve acres planted with ,cuthbert raspberries4 ,in this field he found a bush producing white berries4 ,in brief1 he found an ,albino of the ,cuthbert4 ,of the causes of her existence he knows nothing4 ,all we can say1 ,i suppose1 is that the variation was produced by some unknown impulse of ,nature4 ,deriving her claims from such a source1 she certainly has a better title to royalty than most of her sister queens1 who1 according to history1 have been commonplace women1 suggesting anything but nature4 ,with the exception of the ,philadelphians1 perhaps1 we as a people will not stand on the question of ancestry1 and shall be more inclined to see how she queens it4 ,of course the enthusiastic discoverer and disseminators of this variety claim that it is not only like the ,cuthbert1 but far better4 ,let us try it and see2 if it is as good1 we may well be content1 and can grace our tables with beautiful fruit4 ,there is another ,american species of raspberry 7,rubus occidentalis7 that is almost as dear to memory as the wild strawberry--the thimble-berry1 or black-cap4 ,i confess that the wild flavor of this fruit is more to my taste than that of any other raspberry4 ,apparently its seeds have been sown broadcast over the continent1 for it is found almost everywhere1 and there have been few children in ,america whose lips have not been stained by the dark purple juice of its fruit4 ,seeds dropped in neglected pastures1 by fence and roadsides1 and along the edges of the forest1 produce new varieties which do not propagate themselves by suckers like red raspberries1 but in a manner quite distinct4 ,the young purple canes bend over and take root in the soil during ,august1 ,september1 and ,october4 ,at the extreme end of the tip from which the roots descend a bud is formed1 which remains dormant until the following spring4 ,therefore the young plant we set out is a more or less thick mass of roots1 a green bud1 and usually a bit of the old parent cane1 which is of no further service except as a handle and a mark indicating the location of the plant4 ,after the ground has been prepared as one would for corn or potatoes1 it should be levelled1 a line stretched for the row1 and the plants set four feet apart in the row4 ,sink the roots as straight down as possible1 and let the bud point upward1 covering it lightly with merely one or two inches of soil4 ,press the ground firmly against the roots1 but not on the bud4 ,the soil just over this should be fine and mellow1 so that the young shoot can push through easily1 which it will soon do if the plants are in good condition4 ,except in the extreme ,south1 spring is by far the best time for planting1 and it should be done early1 while the buds are dormant4 ,after these begin to grow1 keep the ground mellow and free from weeds4 ,the first effort of the young plant will be to propagate itself4 ,it will sprawl over the ground if left to its wild impulses1 and will not make an upright bearing bush4 ,on this account put a stake down by the young sprout1 and as it grows keep it tied up and away from the ground4 ,when the side-branches are eight or ten inches long1 pinch them back1 thus throwing the chief strength into the central cane4 ,by keeping all the branches pinched back you form the plant into an erect1 sturdy bush that will load itself with berries the following year4 ,no fruit will be borne the first season4 ,the young canes of the second year will incline to be more sturdy and erect in their growth2 but this tendency can be greatly enhanced by clipping the long slender branches which are thrown out on every side4 ,as soon as the old canes are through bearing1 they should be cut out and burned or composted with other refuse from the garden4 ,black-caps may be planted on any soil that is not too dry4 ,when the plant suffers from drought1 the fruit consists of little else than seeds4 ,to escape this defect ,i prefer to put the black-caps in a moist location2 and it is one of the few fruits that will thrive in a cold1 wet soil4 ,one can set out plants here and there in out-of-the-way corners1 and they often do better than those in the garden4 ,indeed1 unless a place is kept up very neatly1 many such bushes will be found growing wild1 and producing excellent fruit4 ,the question may arise in some minds1 ,why buy plants8 ,why not get them from the woods and fields1 or let ,nature provide bushes for us where she will8 ,when ,nature produces a bush on my place where it is not in the way1 ,i let it grow1 and pick the fruit in my rambles2 but the supply would be precarious indeed for a family4 ,by all means get plants from the woods if you have marked a bush that produces unusually fine fruit4 ,it is by just this course that the finest varieties have been obtained4 ,if you go a-berrying1 you may light on something finer than has yet been discovered2 but it is not very probable4 ,meanwhile1 for a dollar you can get all the plants you want of the two or three best varieties that have yet been discovered1 from ,maine to ,california4 ,after testing a great many kinds1 ,i should recommend the ,souhegan for early1 and the ,mammoth ,cluster and ,gregg for late4 ,a clean1 mellow soil in good condition1 frequent pinchings back of the canes in summer1 or a rigorous use of the pruning-shears in spring1 are all that is required to secure an abundant crop from year to year4 ,this species may also be grown among trees4 ,i advise that every kind and description of raspberries be kept tied to stakes or a wire trellis4 ,the wood ripens better1 the fruit is cleaner and richer from exposure to air and sunshine1 and the garden is far neater than if the canes are sprawling at will4 ,i know that all horticulturists advise that the plants be pinched back so thoroughly as to form self-supporting bushes2 but ,i have yet to see the careful fruit-grower who did this1 or the bushes that some thunder-gusts would not prostrate into the mud with all their precious burden1 were they not well supported4 ,why take the risk to save a two-penny stake8 ,if1 just before the fruit begins to ripen1 a mulch of leaves1 cut grass1 or any litter that will cover the ground slightly1 is placed under and around the bushes1 it may save a great deal of fruit from being spoiled4 ,the raspberry season is also the hour and opportunity for thunder-showers1 whose great slanting drops often splash the soil to surprising distances4 ,sugar-and-cream-coated1 not mud-coated1 berries1 if you please4 ,in my remarks on raspberries ,i have not named many varieties1 and have rather laid stress on the principles which may guide the reader in his present and future selections of kinds4 ,sufficient in number and variety to meet the ,,needs of every family have been mentioned4 ,the amateur may gratify his taste by testing other sorts described in nurserymen's catalogues4 ,moreover1 every year or two some new variety will be heralded throughout the land4 ,the reader has merely to keep in mind the three classes of raspberries described and their characteristics1 in order to make an intelligent choice from old and new candidates for favor4 ,it should also be remembered that the raspberry is a ,northern fruit4 ,i am often asked in effect1 ,what raspberries do you recommend for the ,gulf ,states8 ,i suppose my best reply would be1 ,what oranges do you think best adapted to ,new ,york8 ,most of the foreign kinds falter and fail in ,new ,jersey and ,southern ,pennsylvania2 the ,cuthbert and its class can be grown much further south1 while the ,turner and the black-caps thrive almost to ,florida4 ,raspberries1 especially those of our native species1 are comparatively free from disease4 ,foreign varieties and their hybrids are sometimes afflicted with the curl-leaf4 ,the foliage crimps up1 the canes are dwarfed1 and the whole plant has a sickly and often yellow appearance4 ,the only remedy is to dig up the plant1 root and branch1 and burn it4 ,a disease termed the rust not infrequently attacks old and poorly nourished black-cap bushes4 ,the leaves take on an ochreous color1 and the plant is seen to be failing4 ,extirpate it as directed above4 ,if many bushes are affected1 ,i advise that the whole patch be rooted up1 and healthy plants set out elsewhere4 ,it is a well-known law of ,nature that plants of nearly all kinds appear to exhaust from the soil in time the ingredients peculiarly acceptable to them4 ,skill can do much toward maintaining the needful supply2 but the best and easiest plan is not to grow any of the small fruits too long in any one locality4 ,by setting out new plants on different ground1 far better results are attained with much less trouble4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,the ,,currant ,who that has ever lived in the country does not remember the old straggling currant-bushes that disputed their existence with grass1 docks1 and other coarse-growing weeds along some ancient fence8 ,many also can recall the weary task of gathering a quart or two of the diminutive fruit for pies1 and the endless picking required to obtain enough for the annual jelly-making4 ,nor is this condition of affairs a thing of the past4 ,drive through the land where you will in early ,july1 and you will see farmers mowing round the venerable ,red ,dutch currants to give the women-folks a chance at 'em4 ,the average farmer still bestows upon this fruit about as much attention as the aborigines gave to their patches of maize4 ,this seems very absurd when we remember the important place held in the domestic economy by the currant1 and how greatly it improves under decent treatment4 ,if it demanded the attention which a cabbage-plant requires1 it would be given2 but the currant belongs to that small class of creatures which permit themselves to be used when wanted1 and snubbed1 neglected1 and imposed upon at other times4 ,it is known that the bushes will manage to exist1 and do the ,very best they can1 no matter how badly treated2 and average human nature has ever taken advantage of such traits1 to its continuous loss4 ,the patience of the currant is due perhaps to its origin1 for it grows wild round the northern hemisphere1 its chief haunts being the dim1 cold1 damp woods of the high latitudes4 ,you may tame1 modify1 and vastly change anything possessing life2 but original traits are scarcely ever wholly eradicated4 ,therefore the natural habitat and primal qualities of the currant indicate the true lines of development1 its capabilities and limitations4 ,it is essentially a northern fruit1 requiring coolness1 moisture1 and alluvial soils4 ,it begins to falter and look homesick even in ,new ,jersey2 and one has not to go far down the ,atlantic coast to pass beyond the range of its successful culture4 ,i do not see why it should not thrive much further south on the northern slopes of the mountains4 ,from ,philadelphia northward1 however1 except on light dry soils and in sunny exposures1 there is no reason why it should not give ample returns for the attention it requires4 ,i shall not lay stress on the old1 well-known uses to which this fruit is put1 but ,i do think its value is but half appreciated4 ,people rush round in ,july in search of health3 let me recommend the currant cure4 ,if any one is languid1 depressed in spirits1 inclined to headaches1 and generally out of sorts1 let him finish his breakfast daily for a month with a dish of freshly picked currants4 ,he will soon1 almost doubt his own identity1 and may even begin to think that he is becoming a good man4 ,he will be more gallant to his wife1 kinder to his children1 friendlier to his neighbors1 and more open-handed to every good cause4 ,work will soon seem play1 and play fun4 ,in brief1 the truth of the ancient pun will be verified1 that the power to live a good life depends largely upon the ,,liver4 ,out upon the nonsense of taking medicine and nostrums during the currant-season6 ,let it be taught at theological seminaries that the currant is a means of grace4 ,it is a corrective2 and that is what average humanity most needs4 ,the currant1 like the raspberry1 is willing to keep shady2 but only because it is modest4 ,it is one of the fruits that thrive better among trees than in too dry and sunny exposures4 ,therefore1 in economizing space on the ,home ,acre it may be grown among smaller trees1 or1 better still1 on the northern or eastern side of a wall or hedge4 ,but shade is not essential1 except as we go south2 then the requisites of moisture and shelter from the burning rays of the sun should be complied with as far as possible4 ,in giving this and kindred fruits partial shade1 they should not be compelled to contend to any extent with the roots of trees4 ,this will ever prove an unequal contest4 ,no fruit can thrive in dense shade1 or find sustenance among the voracious roots of a tree4 ,select1 therefore1 if possible1 heavy1 deep1 moist1 yet well-drained soil1 and do not fear to make and keep it very rich4 ,if you are restricted to sandy or gravelly soils1 correct their defects with compost1 decayed leaves and sods1 muck1 manure from the cow-stable1 and other fertilizers with staying rather than stimulating qualities4 ,either by plowing or forking1 deepen as well as enrich the soil4 ,it is then ready for the plants1 which may be set out either in the fall or in early spring4 ,i prefer the autumn--any time after the leaves have fallen2 but spring answers almost as well1 while buds are dormant1 or partially so4 ,it should be remembered that the currant starts very early1 and is in full foliage before some persons are fairly wakened to garden interests4 ,it would1 in this case1 be better to wait until ,october1 unless the plants can be obtained from a neighbor on a cloudy day2 then they should be cut back two-thirds of their length before being removed1 and the transfer made as quickly as possible4 ,under any circumstances1 take off half of the wood from the plants bought4 ,this need not be thrown away4 ,every cutting of young wood six inches long will make a new plant in a single season4 ,all that is needful is to keep the wood moist until ready to put it in the ground1 or1 better still1 a cool1 damp place in the garden can be selected at once1 and the cuttings sunk two-thirds of their length into the ground1 and the soil pressed firm around them4 ,by fall they will have a good supply of roots1 and by the following autumn be ready to be set out wherever you wish them to fruit4 ,currant-bushes may be planted five feet apart each way1 and at the same distance1 if they are to line a fence4 ,they should be sunk a few inches deeper in the soil than they stood before1 and the locality be such as to admit of good culture4 ,the soil should never be permitted to become hard1 weedy1 or grass-grown4 ,as a rule1 ,i prefer two-year-old plants1 while those of one year's growth answer nearly as well1 if vigorous4 ,if in haste for fruit1 it may be well to get three-year-old plants1 unless they have been dwarfed and enfeebled by neglect4 ,subsequent culture consists chiefly in keeping the soil clean1 mellow1 rich1 and therefore moist4 ,i have named the best fertilizers for the currant2 but if the product of the horse-stable is employed1 use it first as a mulch4 ,it will thus gradually reach the roots4 ,otherwise it is too stimulating1 and produces a rampant growth of wood rather than fruit4 ,under any circumstances this tendency to produce an undue amount of wood must be repressed almost as rigorously as in the grape-vine4 ,the secret of successful currant-culture is richness beneath1 and restriction above4 ,english gardeners are said to have as complete and minute systems of pruning and training currants as the grape2 but we do not seem to have patience for such detail4 ,nor do ,i regard it as necessary4 ,our object is an abundant supply of excellent fruit2 and this result can be obtained at a surprisingly small outlay of time and money1 if they are expended judiciously4 ,the art of trimming a currant-bush1 like that of pruning a grape-vine1 is best learned by observation and experience4 ,one can give principles rather than lay down rules4 ,like the vine1 the currant tends to choke itself with a superabundance of wood1 which soon becomes more or less barren4 ,this is truer of some varieties than of others2 but in all instances the judicious use of the pruning-knife doubles the yield4 ,in view of the supposition that the leading shoot and all the branches were shortened in one-half when the plant was set out1 ,i will suggest that early in ,june it will be observed that much more wood is forming than can be permitted to remain4 ,there are weak1 crowding shoots which never can be of any use4 ,if these are cut out at this time1 the sap which would go to mature them will be directed into the valuable parts of the forming bush4 ,summer pruning prevents misspent force1 and it may be kept up with great advantage from year to year4 ,this is rarely done1 however2 therefore early in spring the bushes must receive a good annual pruning1 and the long shoots and branches be cut well back1 so as to prevent naked reaches of wood4 ,observe a very productive bush1 and you will see that there are many points abounding in little side-branches4 ,it is upon these that the fruit is chiefly borne4 ,a bush left to itself is soon a mass of long1 slender1 almost naked stalks1 with a little fruit at the ends4 ,the ideal bush is stocky1 open1 well branched1 admitting light1 air1 and sun in every part4 ,there is no crowding and smothering of the fruit by the foliage4 ,but few clusters are borne on very young wood1 and when this grows old and black1 the clusters are small4 ,therefore new wood should always be coming on and kept well cut back1 so as to form joints and side-branches2 and as other parts grow old and feeble they should be cut out4 ,observation and experience will teach the gardener more than all the rules that could be written1 for he will perceive that he must prune each bush according to its own individuality4 ,for practical purposes the bush form is the best in which to grow currants2 but they can easily be made to form pretty little trees with tops shaped like an umbrella1 or any other form we desire4 ,for instance1 ,i found1 one autumn1 a shoot about three feet long4 ,i rubbed off all the buds except the terminal one and three or four just beneath it1 then sunk the lower end of the shoot six inches into the soil1 and tied the part above the ground to a short stake4 ,the following spring the lower end took root1 and the few buds at the top developed into a small bushy head4 ,clumps of miniature currant-trees would make as pretty an ornament for the garden border as one would wish to see4 ,it should be remembered that there is a currant as well as an apple borer2 but the pests are not very numerous or destructive1 and such little trees may easily be grown by the hundred4 ,clean culture has one disadvantage which must be guarded against4 ,if the ground under bushes is loose1 heavy rains will sometimes so splash up the soil as to muddy the greater part of the fruit4 ,i once suffered serious loss in this way1 and deserved it2 for a little grass mown from the lawn1 or any other litter spread under and around the bushes just before the fruit ripened1 would have prevented it4 ,it will require but a very few minutes to insure a clean crop4 ,i imagine that if these pages are ever read1 and such advice as ,i can give is followed1 it will be more often by the mistress than the master of the ,home ,acre4 ,i address him1 but quite as often ,i mean her2 and just at this point ,i am able to give the power behind the throne a useful hint4 ,miss ,alcott1 in her immortal ,little ,women1 has given an instance of what dire results may follow if the jelly won't jell4 ,let me hasten to insure domestic peace by telling my fair reader 7who will also be1 if the jelly turns out of the tumblers tremulous yet firm1 a gentle reader7 that if she will have the currants picked just as soon as they are fully ripe1 and before they have been drenched by a heavy rain1 she will find that the jelly will jell4 ,it is overripe1 water-soaked currants that break up families and demolish household gods4 ,let me also add another fact1 as true as it is strange1 that white currants make red jelly2 therefore give the pearly fruit ample space in the garden4 ,in passing to the consideration of varieties1 it is quite natural in this connection to mention the white sorts first4 ,i know that people are not yet sufficiently educated to demand white currants of their grocers2 but the home garden is as much beyond the grocer's stall as the home is better than a boarding-house4 ,there is no reason why free people in the country should be slaves to conventionalities1 prejudices1 and traditions4 ,if white currants ,,are sweeter1 more delicious and beautiful than the red1 why1 so they are4 ,therefore let us plant them abundantly4 ,if there is to be a queen among the currants1 the ,white ,grape is entitled to the crown4 ,when placed upon the table1 the dish appears heaped with translucent pearls4 ,the sharp acid of the red varieties is absent1 and you feel that if you could live upon them for a time1 your blood would grow pure1 if not blue4 ,the bush producing this exquisite fruit is like an uncouth-looking poet who gives beauty from an inner life1 but disappoints in externals4 ,it is low-branching and unshapely1 and must be forced into good form--the bush1 not the poet--by the pruning-knife4 ,if this is done judiciously1 no other variety will bear more profusely or present a fairer object on a ,july day4 ,the ,white ,dutch has the well-known characteristics in growth of the common ,red ,dutch currant1 and is inferior only to the ,white ,grape in size4 ,the fruit is equally transparent1 beautiful1 mild1 and agreeable in flavor1 while the bush is enormously productive1 and shapely in form1 if properly trained and fertilized4 ,while the white currants are such favorites1 ,i do not undervalue the red4 ,indeed1 were ,i restricted to one variety1 it should be the old ,dutch ,red of our fathers1 or1 more properly1 of our grandmothers4 ,for general house uses ,i do not think it has yet been surpassed4 ,it is not so mild in flavor as the white varieties1 but there is a richness and sprightliness in its acid that are grateful indeed on a sultry day4 ,mingled with the white berries1 it makes a beautiful dish1 while it has all the culinary qualities which the housekeeper can desire4 ,if the bush is rigorously pruned and generously enriched1 it is unsurpassed in productiveness1 and the fruit approaches very nearly to the ,cherry currant in size4 ,i do not recommend the last-named kind for the home garden1 unless large1 showy fruit counts for more than flavor4 ,the acid of the ,cherry currant1 unless very ripe1 is harsh and watery4 ,at best it never acquires an agreeable mildness1 to my taste4 ,the bushes also are not so certainly productive1 and usually require skilful pruning and constant fertilizing to be profitable4 ,for the market1 which demands size above all things1 the ,cherry is the kind to grow2 but in the home garden flavor and productiveness are the more important qualities4 ,fay's ,prolific is a new sort that has been very highly praised4 ,the ,victoria is an excellent late variety1 which1 if planted in a sheltered place1 prolongs the currant-season well into the autumn4 ,spurious kinds are sold under this name4 ,the true ,victoria produces a pale-red fruit with tapering clusters or racemes of berries4 ,this variety1 with the three others recommended1 gives the family two red and two white kinds--all that are needed4 ,those who are fond of black currants can1 at almost any nursery1 procure the ,black ,naples and ,lee's ,prolific4 ,either variety will answer all practical purposes4 ,i confess they are not at all to my taste4 ,from the currant we pass on naturally to the gooseberry1 for in origin and requirements it is very similar4 ,both belong to the ,ribes family of plants1 and they are to be cultivated on the same general principles4 ,what ,i have written in regard to partial shade1 cool1 sheltered localities1 rich1 heavy soils1 good culture1 and especially rigorous pruning1 applies with even greater force to this fruit1 especially if we endeavor to raise the foreign varieties1 in cultivating this fruit it is even more important than was true of raspberries that the reader should distinguish between the native and foreign species4 ,the latter are so inclined to mildew in almost every locality that there is rarely any certainty of satisfactory fruit4 ,the same evil pursues the seedling children of the foreign sorts1 and ,i have never seen a hybrid or cross between the ,english and native species that was with any certainty free from a brown disfiguring rust wholly or partially enveloping the berries4 ,here and there the fruit in some gardens will escape year after year2 again1 on places not far away1 the blighting mildew is sure to appear before the berries are fully grown4 ,nevertheless1 the foreign varieties are so fine that it is well to give them a fair trial4 ,the three kinds which appear best adapted to our climate are ,crown ,bob1 ,roaring ,lion1 and ,whitesmith4 ,a new large variety1 named ,industry1 is now being introduced1 and if half of what is claimed for it is true1 it is worth a place in all gardens4 ,in order to be certain of clean1 fair gooseberries every year1 we must turn to our native species1 which has already given us several good varieties4 ,the ,downing is the largest and best1 and the ,houghton the hardiest1 most productive and easily raised4 ,when we remember the superb fruit which ,english gardeners have developed from wild kinds inferior to ours1 we can well understand that the true ,american gooseberries are yet to be developed4 ,in my work ,success with ,small ,fruits those who are interested in this fruit will find much fuller treatment than is warranted in the present essay4 ,not only do currants and gooseberries require similar treatment and cultivation1 but they also have a common enemy that must be vigilantly guarded against1 or the bushes will be defoliated in many localities almost before its existence is known4 ,after an absence of a few days ,i have found some of my bushes stripped of every leaf4 ,when this happens1 the fruit is comparatively worthless4 ,foliage is as necessary to a plant as are lungs to a man4 ,it is not essential that ,i should go into the natural history of the currant worm and moth4 ,having once seen the yellowish-green caterpillars at their destructive work1 the reader's thoughts will not revert to the science of entomology1 but will at once become bloody and implacable4 ,i hasten to suggest the means of rescue and vengeance4 ,the moment these worms appear1 be on your guard1 for they usually spread like fire in stubble4 ,procure of your druggist white hellebore1 scald and mix a tablespoonful in a bowl of hot water1 and then pour it in a full watering-can4 ,this gives you an infusion of about a tablespoonful to an ordinary pail of water at its ordinary summer temperature4 ,sprinkle the infected bushes with this as often as there is a worm to be seen4 ,i have never failed in destroying the pests by this course4 ,it should be remembered1 however1 that new eggs are often hatched out daily4 ,you may kill every worm to-day1 yet find plenty on the morrow4 ,vigilance1 however1 will soon so check the evil that your currants are safe2 and if every one would fight the pests1 they would eventually be almost exterminated4 ,the trouble is that1 while you do your duty1 your next-door neighbor may grow nothing on his bushes but currant-worms4 ,thus the evil is continued1 and even increased1 in spite of all that you can do2 but by a little vigilance and the use of hellebore you can always save ,,your currants4 ,i have kept my bushes green1 luxuriant1 and loaded with fruit when1 at a short distance1 the patches of careless neighbors were rendered utterly worthless4 ,our laws but half protect the birds1 the best insecticides1 and there is no law to prevent a man from allowing his acres to be the breeding-place of every pest prevailing4 ,there are three species of the currant-borer1 and their presence is indicated by yellow foliage and shrivelling fruit4 ,the only remedy is to cut out and burn the affected stems4 ,these pests are not often sufficiently numerous to do much harm4 ,i earnestly urge that virulent poisons like ,paris green1 ,london purple1 etc41 never be used on fruit or edible vegetables4 ,there cannot be safety in this course4 ,i never heard of any one that was injured by white hellebore1 used as ,i have directed2 and ,i have found that if the worms were kept off until the fruit began to ripen1 the danger was practically over4 ,if ,i had to use hellebore after the fruit was fit to use1 ,i should first kill the worms1 and then cleanse the bushes thoroughly by spraying them with clean water4 ,in treating the two remaining small fruits1 blackberries and strawberries1 we pass wholly out of the shade and away from trees4 ,sunshine and open ground are now required4 ,another important difference can also be mentioned1 reversing former experience4 ,america is the home of these fruits4 ,the wild species of the blackberry abroad has never1 as far as ,i can learn1 been developed into varieties worthy of cultivation2 and before importations from ,north and ,south ,america began1 the only strawberry of ,europe was the ,alpine1 with its slight variations1 and the musky ,hautbois4 ,i do not know whether any of our fine varieties of blackberries are cultivated abroad1 but ,i am perfectly certain that they are worthy of the slight attention required to raise them in perfection here4 ,like the blackcaps1 all our best varieties are the spontaneous products of ,nature1 first discovered growing wild1 and transferred to the garden4 ,the blackberry is a fruit that takes kindly to cultivation1 and improves under it4 ,the proper treatment is management rather than cultivation and stimulation4 ,it requires a sunny exposure and a light1 warm soil1 yet not so dry as to prevent the fruit from maturing into juicy berries4 ,if possible1 set the blackberries off by themselves1 for it is hard to prevent the strong roots from travelling all over the garden4 ,the blackberry likes a rich1 moist1 mellow soil1 and1 finding it1 some varieties will give you canes sixteen feet high4 ,you do not want rank1 thorny brambles1 however1 but berries4 ,therefore the blackberry should be put where it can do no harm1 and1 by a little judicious repression1 a great deal of good4 ,a gravelly or sandy knoll1 with a chance to mow all round the patch1 is the best place4 ,the blackberry needs a deep1 loose soil rather than a rich one4 ,then the roots will luxuriate to unknown depths1 the wood ripen thoroughly1 and the fruit be correspondingly abundant4 ,let the rows be six feet apart2 set out the plants in the fall1 if possible1 or ,,early spring2 put two plants in the hills1 which may be four feet apart4 ,if the ground is very poor1 give the young plants a shovelful of old compost1 decayed leaves1 etc4 ,any fertilizer will answer1 so that it is spread just over the roots to give the plants a good send-off4 ,as a rule1 complete success in blackberry culture consists in a little judicious work performed in ,may1 ,june1 and ,july4 ,the plants1 having been set out as ,i have advised in the case of raspberries1 throw up the first season strong green shoots4 ,when these shoots are three feet high1 pinch off the top1 so as to stop upward growth4 ,the result of this is that branches start on every side1 and the plant forms a low1 stocky1 self-supporting bush1 which will be loaded with fruit the following season4 ,the second year the plants in the hill will send up stronger canes1 and there will be plenty of sprouts or suckers in the intervening spaces4 ,when very young1 these useless sprouts can be pulled out with the least possible trouble4 ,left to mature1 they make a thorny wilderness which will cause bleeding hands and faces when attacked1 and add largely to the family mending4 ,that which a child could do as play when the suckers were just coming through the ground1 is now a formidable task for any man4 ,in early summer you can with the utmost ease keep every useless blackberry sprout from growing4 ,more canes1 also1 will usually start from the hill than are needed4 ,leave but three strong shoots1 and this year pinch them back as soon as they are four feet high1 thus producing three stocky1 well-branched bushes1 which in sheltered places will be self-supporting4 ,should there be the slightest danger of their breaking down with their load of fruit1 tie them to stakes by all means4 ,i do not believe in that kind of economy which tries to save a penny at the risk of a dollar4 ,i believe that better and larger fruit is always secured by shortening in the side branches one-third of their length in spring4 ,fine varieties like the ,kittatinny are not entirely hardy in all localities4 ,the snow will protect the lower branches1 and the upper ones can usually be kept uninjured by throwing over them some very light litter1 like old pea or bean vines1 etc4--nothing heavy enough to break them down4 ,as soon as the old canes are through bearing1 they should be cut out4 ,if the blackberry patch has been left to its own wild will1 there is nothing left for us but to attack it1 well-gloved1 in ,april1 with the pruning-shears1 and cut out everything except three or four young canes in the hill4 ,these will probably be tall1 slender1 and branchless1 therefore comparatively unproductive4 ,in order to have any fruit at all1 we must shorten them one-third1 and tie them to stakes4 ,it thus may be clearly seen that with blackberries a stitch in time saves almost ninety-nine4 ,keep out coarse weeds and grass1 and give fertilizers only when the plants show signs of feebleness and lack of nutrition4 ,a rust similar to that which attacks the black-cap is almost the only disease we have to contend with4 ,the remedy is the same--extirpation of the plant1 root and branch4 ,after testing a great many kinds1 ,i recommend the three following varieties1 ripening in succession for the family--the ,early ,harvest1 ,snyder1 and ,kittatinny4 ,these all produce rich1 high-flavored berries1 and1 under the treatment suggested1 will prove hardy in nearly all localities4 ,this fruit is not ripe as soon as it is black1 and it is rarely left on the bushes until the hard core in the centre is mellowed by complete maturity4 ,i have found that berries picked in the evening and stood in a cool place were in excellent condition for breakfast4 ,to have them in perfection1 however1 they must be so ripe as to drop into the basket at the slightest touch2 then1 as ,donald ,mitchell says1 they are bloated bubbles of forest honey4 ,i fancy the reader is as impatient to reach the strawberry as ,i am myself4 ,doubtless ,god could have made a better berry--but ,i forbear4 ,this saying has been quoted by the greater part of the human race1 and attributed to nearly every prominent man1 from ,adam to ,mr4 ,beecher4 ,there are said to be unfortunates whom the strawberry poisons4 ,the majority of us feel as if we could attain ,methuselah's age if we had nothing worse to contend with4 ,praising the strawberry is like painting the lily2 therefore let us give our attention at once to the essential details of its successful culture4 ,as we have intimated before1 this fruit as we find it in our gardens1 even though we raise foreign kinds1 came originally from ,america4 ,the two great species1 ,fragaria chilensis1 found on the ,pacific slope from ,oregon to ,chili1 and ,fragaria virginiana1 growing wild in all parts of ,north ,america east of the ,rocky ,mountains1 are the sources of all the fine varieties that have been named and cultivated4 ,the ,alpine strawberry 7,fragaria vesca71 which grows wild throughout the northern hemisphere1 does not appear capable of much variation and development under cultivation4 ,its seeds1 sown under all possible conditions1 reproduce the parent plant4 ,foreign gardeners eventually learned1 however1 that seeds of the ,chili and ,virginia strawberry produced new varieties which were often much better than their parents4 ,as time passed1 and more attention was drawn to this subject1 superb varieties were originated abroad1 many of them acquiring a wide celebrity4 ,in this case1 as has been true of nearly all other fruits1 our nursery-men and fruit-growers first looked to ,europe for improved varieties4 ,horticulturists were slow to learn that in our own native species were the possibilities of the best success4 ,the ,chili strawberry1 brought directly from the ,pacific coast to the ,east1 is not at home in our climate1 and is still more unfitted to contend with it after generations of culture in ,europe4 ,even our hardier ,virginia strawberry1 coming back to us from ,england after many years of high stimulation in a moist1 mild climate1 is unequal to the harsher conditions of life here4 ,they are like native ,americans who have lived and been pampered abroad so long that they find this country quite too rude1 you know--beastly climate4 ,therefore1 in the choice varieties1 and in developing new ones1 the nearer we can keep to vigorous strains of our own hardy ,virginia species the better4 ,from it have proceeded and will continue to come the finest kinds that can be grown east of the ,rockies4 ,nevertheless1 what was said of foreign raspberries is almost equally true of ,european strawberries like the ,triomphe de ,gand and ,jucunda1 and hybrids like the ,wilder4 ,in localities where they can be grown1 their beauty and fine flavor repay for the high culture and careful winter protection required4 ,but they can scarcely be made to thrive on light soils or very far to the south4 ,so many varieties are offered for sale that the question of choice is a bewildering one4 ,i have therefore sought to meet it1 as before1 by giving the advice of those whose opinions are well entitled to respect4 ,dr4 ,hexamer1 who has had great and varied experience1 writes as follows3 ,a neighbor of mine who has for years bought nearly every new strawberry when first introduced1 has settled on the ,duchess and ,cumberland as the only varieties he will grow in the future1 and thinks it not worth while to seek for something better4 ,confined to two varieties1 a more satisfactory selection could scarcely be made4 ,but you want six or seven1 either being1 ,i think1 about the right number for the home garden4 ,i will give them in the order of desirability according to my judgment--,cumberland1 ,charles ,downing1 ,duchess1 ,mount ,vernon1 ,warren1 ,sharpless1 ,jewell4 ,the selection which places the ,cumberland ,triumph at the head of the list is but another proof how kinds differ under varied conditions4 ,on my place this highly praised sort is but moderately productive and not high-flavored1 although the fruit is very large and handsome4 ,i regard the list1 however1 as a most excellent one for most localities4 ,the ,hon4 ,marshall ,p4 ,wilder's choice for the latitude of ,massachusetts3 ,charles ,downing1 ,wilder1 ,hervey ,davis1 ,sharpless1 ,cumberland1 ,kentucky4 ,jewell is very promising4 ,a4 ,s4 ,fuller1 for latitude of ,new ,york3 ,charles ,downing1 ,sharpless1 ,miner's ,prolific1 ,wilson's ,albany1 ,champion4 ,p4 ,c4 ,berckmans1 for the latitude of ,georgia3 ,wilson1 ,sharpless1 ,charles ,downing1 ,triomphe de ,gand1 ,glendale4 ,the ,hon4 ,norman ,j4 ,colman's choice for ,missouri and the ,west3 ,crescent1 ,captain ,jack1 ,cumberland1 ,champion1 ,hart's ,minnesota1 ,cornelia4 ,if ,i gave a hundred other lists1 no two of them probably would agree in all respects4 ,mr4 ,downing often said to me1 ,soil1 climate1 and locality make greater differences with the strawberry than with any other fruit4 ,this is far more true of some varieties than others4 ,i believe that the excellent kind named after ,mr4 ,downing1 if given proper treatment1 will do well almost anywhere on the continent4 ,it will be noted that it is on all the lists except one4 ,i should place it at the head of garden strawberries4 ,it is a kind that will endure much neglect1 and it responds splendidly to generous1 sensible treatment4 ,its delicious flavor is its chief recommendation1 as it should be that of every berry for the home garden4 ,i have tested many hundreds of kinds1 and have grown scores and scores that were so praised when first sent out that the novice might be tempted to dig up and throw away everything except the wonderful novelty pressed upon his attention4 ,there is one quiet1 effective way of meeting all this heralding and laudation1 and that is to make trial beds4 ,for instance1 ,i have put out as many as seventy kinds at nearly the same time1 and grown them under precisely the same conditions4 ,some of the much-vaunted new-comers were found to be old varieties re-named2 others1 although sold at high prices and asserted to be prodigies1 were seen to be comparatively worthless when growing by the side of good old standard sorts2 the majority never rose above mediocrity under ordinary treatment2 but now and then one1 like the ,sharpless1 fulfilled the promises made for it4 ,in my next chapter ,i shall venture to recommend those varieties which my own experience and observation have shown to be best adapted to various soils and localities1 and shall also seek to prove that proper cultivation has more to do with success than even the selection of favored kinds4 ,nor would ,i seek to dissuade the proprietor of the ,home ,acre from testing the many novelties offered4 ,he will be sure to get a fair return in strawberries1 and to his interest in his garden will add the pleasure and anticipation which accompany uncertain experiment4 ,in brief1 he has found an innocent form of gambling1 which will injure neither pocket nor morals4 ,in slow-maturing fruits we cannot afford to make mistakes2 in strawberries1 one prize out of a dozen blanks repays for everything4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,strawberries ,there is a very general impression that light1 dry1 sandy soils are the best for the strawberry4 ,just the reverse of this is true4 ,in its desire for moisture it is almost an aquatic plant4 ,experienced horticulturists have learned to recognize this truth1 which the ,hon4 ,marshall ,p4 ,wilder has suggested in the following piquant manner3 ,in the first place1 the strawberry's chief need is a great deal of water4 ,in the second place1 it needs more water4 ,in the third place1 ,i think ,i should give it a great deal more water4 ,while emphasizing this truth the reader should at the same time be warned against land whereon water stands above the surface in winter and spring1 or stagnates beneath the surface at any time4 ,moisture is essential to the best results2 good drainage is equally so4 ,the marvellous crops of strawberries raised in ,california under well-directed systems of irrigation should teach us useful lessons4 ,the plants1 instead of producing a partially developed crop within a few brief days1 continue in bearing through weeks and months4 ,it may often be possible to supply abundantly on the ,home ,acre this vital requirement of moisture1 and ,i shall refer to this point further on4 ,my first advice in regard to strawberries is to set them out immediately almost anywhere except upon land so recently in grass that the sod is still undecayed4 ,this course is better than not to have the fruit at all1 or to wait for it ,a year without strawberries is a lost year in one serious respect4 ,while there is a wide difference between what plants can do under unfavorable conditions and what they can be made to do when their needs are fully met1 they will probably in any event yield a fair supply of delicious fruit4 ,secure this as soon as possible4 ,at the same time remember that a plant of a good variety is a genius capable of wonderful development4 ,in ordinary circumstances it is like the mute1 inglorious poets whose enforced limitations were lamented by the poet ,gray2 but when its innate powers and gifts are fully nourished it expands into surprising proportions1 sends up hundreds of flowers1 which are followed by ruby gems of fruit whose exquisite flavor is only surpassed by its beauty4 ,no such concentrated ambrosia ever graced the feasts of the ,olympian gods1 for they were restricted to the humble ,fragaria vesca1 or ,alpine species4 ,in discovering the ,new ,world1 ,columbus also discovered the true strawberry1 and died without the knowledge of this result of his achievement4 ,i can imagine the expression on the faces of those who buy the sour1 crude1 half-ripe ,wilsons1 against which the poet ,bryant inveighed so justly4 ,the market is flooded with this fruit because it bears transportation about as well as would marbles4 ,yes1 they are strawberries2 choke-pears and ,seckels belong to the same species4 ,there is truth enough in my exaggeration to warrant the assertion that if we would enjoy the possible strawberry1 we must raise it ourselves1 and pick it when fully matured--ready for the table1 and not for market4 ,then any man's garden can furnish something better than was found in ,eden4 ,having started a strawberry-patch without loss of time wherever it is handiest1 we can now give our attention to the formation of an ideal bed4 ,in this instance we must shun the shade of trees above1 and their roots beneath4 ,the land should be open to the sky1 and the sun free to practice his alchemy on the fruit the greater part of the day4 ,the most favorable soil is a sandy loam1 verging toward clay2 and it should have been under cultivation sufficiently long to destroy all roots of grass and perennial weeds4 ,put on the fertilizer with a free hand4 ,if it is barnyard manure1 the rate of sixty tons to the acre is not in excess4 ,a strawberry plant has a large appetite and excellent digestion4 ,it prefers decidedly manure from the cow-stable1 though that from the horse-stable answers very well2 but it is not advisable to incorporate it with the soil in its raw1 unfermented state1 and then to plant immediately4 ,the ground can scarcely be too rich for strawberries1 but it may easily be overheated and stimulated4 ,in fertilizing1 ever keep in mind the two great requisites--moisture and coolness4 ,manure from the horse-stable1 therefore1 is almost doubled in value as well as bulk if composted with leaves1 muck1 or sods1 and allowed to decay before being used4 ,next to enriching the soil1 the most important step is to deepen it4 ,if a plow is used1 sink it to the beam1 and run it twice in a furrow4 ,if a lifting subsoil-plow can follow1 all the better4 ,strawberry roots have been traced two feet below the surface4 ,if the situation of the plot does not admit the use of a plow1 let the gardener begin at one side and trench the area to at least the depth of eighteen inches1 taking pains to mix the surface1 subsoil1 and fertilizer evenly and thoroughly4 ,a small plot thus treated will yield as much as one three or four times as large4 ,one of the chief advantages of thus deepening the soil is that the plants are insured against their worst enemy--drought4 ,how often ,i have seen beds in early ,june languishing for moisture1 the fruit trusses lying on the ground1 fainting under their burden1 and the berries ripening prematurely into little more than diminutive collections of seeds6 ,when ground has been deepened as ,i have said1 the drought must be almost unparalleled to arrest the development of the fruit4 ,even in the most favorable seasons1 hard1 shallow soils give but a brief period of strawberries1 the fruit ripens all at once1 and although the first berries may be of good size1 the later ones dwindle until they are scarcely larger than peas4 ,be sure to have a deep1 mellow soil beneath the plants4 ,such a bed can be made in either spring or fall--indeed1 at any time when the soil is free from frost1 and neither too wet nor dry4 ,i do not believe in preparing and fertilizing ground during a period of drought4 ,we will suppose the work has been done in the spring1 as early as the earth was dry enough to crumble freely1 and that the surface of the bed is smooth1 mellow1 and ready for the plants4 ,stretch a garden line down the length of the plot two feet from the outer edge1 and set the plants along the line one foot apart from each other4 ,let the roots be spread out1 not buried in a mat1 the earth pressed ,,firmly against them1 and the crown of the plant be exactly even with the surface of the soil1 which should also be pressed closely around it with the fingers4 ,this may seem minute detail1 yet much dismal experience proves it to be essential4 ,i have employed scores of men1 and the great majority at first would either bury the crowns out of sight1 or else leave part of the roots exposed1 and the remainder so loose in the soil that a sharp gale would blow the plants away4 ,there is no one so economical of time as the hired man whose time is paid for4 ,he is ever bent on saving a minute or half-minute in this kind of work4 ,on one occasion ,i had to reset a good part of an acre on which my men had saved time in planting4 ,if ,i had asked them to save the plants in the year of '#hf1 they might have struck4 ,the first row having been set out1 ,i advise that the line be moved forward three feet4 ,this would make the rows three feet apart--not too far in ground prepared as described1 and in view of the subsequent method of cultivation4 ,the bed may therefore be filled up in this ratio1 the plants one foot apart in the row1 and the rows three feet apart4 ,the next point in my system1 for the kind of soil named 7for light1 sandy soils another plan will be indicated71 is to regard each plant as an individual that is to be developed to the utmost4 ,of course only young plants of the previous season's growth should be used4 ,if a plant has old1 woody1 black roots1 throw it away4 ,plants set out in ,april will begin to blossom in ,may4 ,these buds and blossoms should be picked off ruthlessly as soon as they appear4 ,never does avarice overreach itself more completely than when plants are permitted to bear the same season in which they are set out4 ,the young1 half-established plant is drained of its vitality in producing a little imperfect fruit2 yet this is permitted even by farmers who would hold up their hands at the idea of harnessing a colt to a plow4 ,the plants do not know anything about our purpose in regard to them4 ,they merely seek to follow the law of ,nature to propagate themselves1 first by seeds which1 strictly speaking1 are the fruit1 and then by runners4 ,these slender1 tendril-like growths begin to appear early in summer1 and if left unchecked will mat the ground about the parent with young plants by late autumn4 ,if we wish plants1 let them grow by all means2 but if fruit is our object1 why should we let them grow8 ,because nearly every one seems to do it1 would be1 perhaps1 the most rational answer4 ,this is a mistake1 for many are beginning to take just the opposite course even when growing strawberries by the acre4 ,let us fix our attention on a single plant4 ,it has a certain amount of root pasturage and space in which to grow4 ,since it is not permitted to produce an indefinite number of young plants1 it begins to develop itself4 ,the soil is rich1 the roots are busy1 and there must be an outlet4 ,the original plant cannot form others1 and therefore begins to produce fruit-crowns for the coming year4 ,all the sap1 all the increasing power of root and foliage1 are directed to preparation for fruit4 ,in brief1 we have got the plant in traces2 it is pulling in the direction we wish1 it will eventually deliver a load of berries which would surprise those who trust simply to ,nature unguided4 ,some one may object that this is a troublesome and expensive way of growing strawberries4 ,do not the facts in the case prove the reverse8 ,a plant restricted to a single root can be hoed and worked around like a hill of corn or a currant-bush4 ,with comparatively little trouble the ground between the rows can be kept clean and mellow4 ,under the common system1 which allows the runners to interlace and mat the ground1 you soon have an almost endless amount of hand-weeding to do1 and even this fails if white clover1 sorrel1 and certain grasses once get a start4 ,the system ,i advocate forbids neglect2 the runners must be clipped off as fast as they appear1 and they continue to grow from ,june till frost2 but the actual labor of the year is reduced to a minimum4 ,a little boy or girl could keep a large bed clipped by the occasional use of a shears or knife before breakfast2 and if the ground between the plants is free of runners1 it can be hoed over in an hour4 ,considering1 therefore1 merely the trouble and expense1 the single-plant system has the facts in its favor4 ,but our object is not to grow strawberry plants with the least trouble1 but to have strawberries of the largest and finest quality4 ,in addition to ease and thoroughness of cultivation1 there are other important advantages4 ,the single narrow row of plants is more easily protected against winter's frosts4 ,light1 strawy manure from the horse-stable serves well for this purpose2 but it should be light and free from heat4 ,i have seen beds destroyed by too heavy a covering of chunky1 rank manure4 ,it is not our purpose to keep the beds and plants from freezing1 but from alternately freezing and thawing4 ,if snow fell on the bed in ,december and lasted till ,april1 no other protection would be needed4 ,nature in this latitude has no sympathy for the careless man4 ,during the winter of #ahhe1 in ,january1 and again in ,february and ,march1 the ground was bare1 unprotected plants were badly frozen1 and in many instances lifted partly out of the ground by midday thawing and night freezing4 ,the only safe course is to cover the rows thoroughly1 but not heavily1 early in ,december4 ,if then light stable-manure is not at hand1 leaves1 old bean-vines1 or any dry refuse from the garden not containing injurious seeds will answer4 ,do not employ asparagus-tops1 which contain seed4 ,of course we want this vegetable1 but not in the strawberry bed4 ,like some persons out of their proper sphere1 asparagus may easily become a nuisance2 and it will dispossess other growths of their rights and places as serenely as a ,knight of ,labor4 ,the proper balance must be kept in the garden as well as in society2 and therefore it is important to cover our plants with something that will not speedily become a usurper4 ,let it be a settled point1 then1 that the narrow rows must be covered thoroughly out of sight with some light material which will not rest with smothering weight on the plants or leave among them injurious seeds4 ,light stable-manure is often objected to for the reason that employing it is like sowing the ground with grass-seed4 ,if the plants had been allowed to grow in matted beds1 ,i would not use this material for a winter covering1 unless it had been allowed to heat sufficiently to destroy the grass and clover seed contained in it4 ,i have seen matted beds protected with stable-manure that were fit to mow by ,june1 the plants and fruit having been over run with grass4 ,no such result need follow if the plants are cultivated in a single line1 for then the manure can be raked off in early spring--first of ,april in our latitude--and the ground cultivated4 ,there is a great advantage in employing light manure if the system ,i advocate is followed1 for the melting snows and rains carry the richness of the fertilizer to the roots1 and winter protection serves a double purpose4 ,we will now consider the proper management for the second year1 when a full crop should be yielded4 ,i know that many authorities frown upon cultivation during the second spring1 before plants bear their fruit4 ,i can not agree with this view1 except in regard to very light soils1 and look upon it as a relic of the old theory that sandy land was the best for strawberries4 ,take the soil under consideration1 a sandy loam1 for instance4 ,after the frost is out1 the earth settled1 and the winter covering raked off1 the soil under the spring sun grows hard1 and by ,june is almost as solid as a roadbed4 ,every one knows that land in such condition suffers tenfold more severely from drought than if it were light and mellow from cultivation4 ,perennial weeds that sprouted late in the fall or early spring get a start1 and by fruiting-time are rampant4 ,i do advocate ,,early spring cultivation1 and by it ,i almost double my crop1 while at the same time maintaining a mastery over the weeds4 ,as soon as the severe frosts are over1 in ,april1 ,i rake the coarsest of the stable-manure from the plants1 leaving the finer and decayed portions as a fertilizer4 ,then1 when the ground is dry enough to work1 ,i have a man weed out the rows1 and if there are vacant spaces1 fill in the rows with young plants4 ,the man then forks the ground lightly between the rows1 and stirs the surface merely among the plants4 ,thus all the hard1 sodden surface is loosened or scarified1 and opened to the reception of air and light1 dew and rain4 ,the man is charged emphatically that in this cultivation he must not lift the plants or disturb the roots to any extent4 ,if ,i find a plant with its hold upon the ground loosened1 ,i know there has been careless work4 ,before digging along the row the fork is sunk beside the plants to prevent the soil from lifting in cakes1 and the plants with them4 ,in brief1 pains are taken that the plants should be just as firm in the soil after cultivation as before4 ,let the reader carefully observe that this work is done ,,early in ,april1 while the plants are comparatively ,,dormant4 ,most emphatically it should not be done in ,may1 after the blossoms begin to appear4 ,if the bed has been neglected till that time1 the ,,surface ,,merely can be cultivated with a hoe4 ,when the plants have approached so near to the fruiting1 the roots must not be disturbed at all4 ,,early cultivation gives time for new roots to grow1 and stimulates such growth4 ,where the rows are sufficiently long1 and the ground permits it1 this early loosening of the soil is accomplished with a horse-cultivator better than with a fork1 the hoe following and levelling the soil and taking out all weeds4 ,my next step during the second season is to mulch the plants1 in order to keep the fruit clean4 ,without this mulch the fruit is usually unfit for the table4 ,a dashing shower splashes the berries with mud and grit1 and the fruit must be washed before it is eaten2 and strawberries with their sun-bestowed beauty and flavor washed away are as ridiculous as is mere noise from musical instruments4 ,to be content with such fruit is like valuing pictures by the number of square inches of canvas6 ,in perfecting a strawberry1 ,nature gives some of her finest touches1 and it is not well to obliterate them with either mud or water4 ,any light clean material will keep the fruit clean4 ,i have found spring rakings of the lawn--mingled dead grass and leaves--one of the best4 ,leaves from a grove would answer1 were it not for their blowing about in an untidy way4 ,of course there is nothing better than straw for the strawberry2 but this often costs as much as hay4 ,any clean litter that will lie close to the ground and can be pushed up under the plants will answer4 ,nor should it be merely under the plants4 ,a man once mulched my rows in such a way that the fruit hung over the litter on the soil beyond4 ,a little common-sense will meet the requirement of keeping the berries well away from the loose soil1 while at the same time preserving a neat aspect to the bed4 ,pine-needles and salt-hay are used where these materials are abundant4 ,make it a rule to mulch as soon as possible after the plants begin to blossom1 and also after a good soaking rain4 ,in this case the litter keeps the ground moist4 ,if the soil immediately about the plants is covered when dry1 the mulch may keep it dry--to the great detriment of the forming berries4 ,it is usually best to put on the mulch as soon as the early cultivation is over in ,april1 and then the bed may be left till the fruit is picked4 ,of course it may be necessary to pull out some rank-growing weeds from time to time4 ,if the hired man is left to do the mulching very late in the season1 he will probably cover much of the green fruit and blossoms as well as the ground4 ,after the berries have been picked1 the remaining treatment of the year is very simple4 ,rake out the mulch1 cultivate the soil1 and keep the plants free of weeds and runners as during the previous year4 ,before hard freezing weather1 protect again as before1 and give the plants similar treatment the following spring and summer4 ,under this system the same plants may be kept in bearing three1 four1 and five years1 according to the variety4 ,some kinds maintain their vigor longer than others4 ,after the first year the disposition to run declines1 and with the third year1 in most instances1 deterioration in the plant itself begins4 ,i would therefore advise that under this system a new bed be made1 as described1 every third year2 for1 it should be remembered1 the new bed is unproductive the first year4 ,this should never be forgotten if one would maintain a continuous supply of berries1 otherwise he will be like those born on the #bith of ,february1 and have only occasional birthdays4 ,if the old bed is just where you wish1 and has been prepared in the thorough manner described1 it can be renewed in the following manner3 ,when the old plants begin to decline in vigor--say the third or fourth spring--a line of well-decayed compost and manure from the cow-stable a foot wide may be spread thickly down between the rows1 dug under deeply1 and young plants set out just over the fertilizer4 ,the old plants can be treated as has already been described1 and as soon as they are through bearing1 dug under4 ,this would leave the young plants in full possession of the ground1 and the cultivation and management for three or more years would go on as already directed4 ,this course involves no loss of time or change of ground for a long periods4 ,if1 however1 a new bed can be made somewhere else1 the plants will thrive better upon it4 ,unless there are serious objections1 a change of ground is always advantageous2 for no matter how lavishly the plot is enriched1 the strawberry appears to exhaust certain required constituents in the soil4 ,continued vigor is better maintained by wood-ashes perhaps than by any other fertilizer1 after the soil is once deepened and enriched1 and it may be regarded as one of the very best tonics for the strawberry plant4 ,bone-meal is almost equally good4 ,guano and kindred fertilizers are too stimulating1 and have not the staying qualities required4 ,as has been intimated before1 the strawberry bed may often be so located on the ,home ,acre as to permit of irrigation4 ,this does not mean sprinkling and splattering with water1 but the continuous maintenance of abundant moisture during the critical period from the time the fruit begins to form until it ripens4 ,partial watering during a drought is very injurious2 so also would be too frequent watering4 ,if the ground could be soaked twice a week in the evening1 and then left to the hardening and maturing influence of the sun and wind1 the finest results would be secured4 ,i am satisfied that in most localities the size of the berries and the number of quarts produced might be doubled by judicious irrigation4 ,the system given above applies not only to sandy loam1 but also to all varieties of clay1 even the most stubborn4 ,in the latter instance it would be well to employ stable-manure in the initial enriching1 for this would tend to lighten and warm the soil4 ,care must also be exercised in not working clay when it is too wet or too dry4 ,mulch also plays an important part on heavy clay1 for it prevents the soil from baking and cracking4 ,one of the best methods of preventing this is to top-dress the ground with stable-manure1 and hoe it in from time to time when fighting the weeds4 ,this keeps the surface open and mellow--a vital necessity for vigorous growth4 ,few plants will thrive when the surface is hard and baked4 ,nevertheless1 if ,i had to choose between heavy clay and light sand for strawberries1 ,i should much prefer the clay4 ,on the last-named soil an abundant winter protection is absolutely necessary1 or else the plants will freeze entirely out of the ground4 ,the native strain of cultivated strawberries has so much vigor and power of adaptation that plenty of excellent varieties can be grown on the lightest soil4 ,in this instance1 however1 we would suggest important modifications in preparation and culture4 ,the soil1 as has been already shown1 must be treated like a spendthrift4 ,deep plowing or spading should be avoided1 as the subsoil is too loose and leachy already4 ,the initial enriching of the bed should be generous1 but not lavish4 ,you cannot deposit fertilizers for long-continued use4 ,i should prefer to harrow or rake in the manure1 leaving it near the surface4 ,the rains will carry it down fast enough4 ,one of the very best methods is to open furrows1 three feet apart1 with a light corn-plow1 half fill them with decayed compost1 again run the plow through to mix the fertilizer with the soil1 then level the ground1 and set out the plants immediately over the manure4 ,they thus get the benefit of it before it can leach away4 ,the accomplished horticulturist ,mr4 ,p4 ,t4 ,quinn1 of ,newark1 ,n4 ,j41 has achieved remarkable success by this plan4 ,it is a well-known fact that on light land strawberry plants are not so long-lived and do not develop1 or stool out1 as it is termed1 as on heavier land4 ,in order to secure the largest and best possible crop1 therefore1 ,i should not advise a single line of plants1 but rather a narrow bed of plants1 say eighteen inches wide1 leaving eighteen inches for a walk4 ,i would not allow this bed to be matted with an indefinite number of little plants crowding each other into feeble life1 but would leave only those runners which had taken root early1 and destroy the rest4 ,a plant which forms in ,june and the first weeks in ,july has time to mature good-sized fruit-buds before winter1 especially if given space in which to develop4 ,this1 however1 would be impossible if the runners were allowed to sod the ground thickly4 ,in principle ,i would carry out the first system1 and give each plant space in which to grow upon its own root as large as it naturally would in a light soil1 and ,i would have a sufficient number of plants to supply the deficiency in growth4 ,on good1 loamy soil1 the foliage of single lines of plants1 three feet apart1 will grow so large as to touch across the spaces2 but this could scarcely be expected on light soil unless irrigation were combined with great fertility4 ,nevertheless1 a bed with plants standing not too thickly upon it will give an abundance of superb fruit4 ,strawberries grown in beds may not require so much spring mulching to keep the fruit clean1 but should carefully receive all that is needed4 ,winter protection also is not so indispensable as on heavier soils1 but it always well repays4 ,a thick bed of plants should never be protected by any kind of litter which would leave seeds of various kinds1 for under this system of culture weeds must be taken out by hand2 and this is always slow1 back-aching work4 ,when plants are grown in beds it does not pay to continue them after fruiting the third year4 ,for instance1 they are set out in spring1 and during the first season they are permitted to make a limited number of runners1 and prepare to fruit the following year4 ,after the berries are picked the third year1 dig the plants under1 and occupy the ground with something else4 ,on light soils1 and where the plants are grown in beds instead of narrow rows1 new beds should be set out every alternate year4 ,in order to have an abundant supply of young plants it is only necessary to let one end of a row or a small portion of a bed run at will4 ,then new plants can be set out as desired4 ,while more strawberries are planted in spring than at any other time1 certain advantages are secured by summer and fall setting4 ,this is especially true of gardens wherein early crops are maturing1 leaving the ground vacant4 ,for instance1 there are areas from which early peas1 beans1 or potatoes have been gathered4 ,suppose such a plot is ready for something else in ,july or ,august1 the earlier the better4 ,unless the ground is very dry1 a bed can be prepared as has been described4 ,if the soil is in good condition1 rich and deep1 it can be dug thoroughly1 and the plants set out at once in the cool of the evening1 or just before a shower4 ,during the hot season a great advantage is secured if the plants are set immediately after the ground is prepared1 and while the surface is still moist4 ,it is unfortunate if ground is made ready and then permitted to dry out before planting takes place1 for watering1 no matter how thorough1 has not so good an influence in starting new growth as the natural moisture of the soil4 ,it would be better1 therefore1 to dig the ground late in the afternoon1 and set out the plants the same evening4 ,watering1 however1 should never be dispensed with during warm weather1 unless there is a certainty of rain2 and even then it does no harm4 ,suppose one wishes to set a new bed in ,july4 ,if he has strawberries growing on his place1 his course would be to let some of his favorite varieties make new runners as early as possible4 ,these should be well-rooted young plants by the middle of the month4 ,after the new ground is prepared1 these can be taken up1 with a ball of earth attached to their roots1 and carried carefully to their new starting-place4 ,if they are removed so gently as not to shake off the earth from the roots1 they will not know that they have been moved1 but continue to thrive without wilting a leaf4 ,if such transplanting is done immediately after a soaking rain1 the soil will cling to the roots so tenaciously as to ensure a transfer that will not cause any check of growth4 ,but it is not necessary to wait for rain4 ,at five in the afternoon soak with water the ground in which the young plants are standing1 and by six o'clock you can take up the plants with their roots incased in clinging earth1 just as successfully as after a rain4 ,plants thus transferred1 and watered after being set out1 will not wilt1 although the thermometer is in the nineties the following day4 ,if young plants are scarce1 take up the strongest and best-rooted ones1 and leave the runner attached2 set out such plants with their balls of earth four feet apart in the row1 and with a lump of earth fasten down the runners along the line4 ,within a month these runners will fill up the new rows as closely as desirable4 ,then all propagation in the new bed should be checked1 and the plants compelled to develop for fruiting in the coming season4 ,in this latitude a plant thus transferred in ,july or ,august will bear a very good crop the following ,june1 and the berries will probably be larger than in the following years4 ,this tendency to produce very large fruit is characteristic of young plants set out in summer4 ,it thus may be seen that plants set in spring can not produce a good crop of fruit under about fourteen months1 while others1 set in summer1 will yield in nine or ten months4 ,i have set out many acres in summer and early autumn with the most satisfactory results4 ,thereafter the plants were treated in precisely the same manner as those set in spring4 ,if the plants must be bought and transported from a distance during hot weather1 ,i should not advise the purchase of any except those grown in pots4 ,nurserymen have made us familiar with pot-grown plants1 for we fill our flowerbeds with them4 ,in like manner strawberry plants are grown and sold4 ,little pots1 three inches across at the top1 are sunk in the earth along a strawberry row1 and the runners so fastened down that they take root in these pots4 ,in about two weeks the young plant will fill a pot with roots4 ,it may then be severed from the parent1 and transported almost any distance1 like a verbena4 ,usually the ball of earth and roots is separated from the pot1 and is then wrapped in paper before being packed in the shallow box employed for shipping purposes4 ,a nurseryman once distributed in a summer throughout the country a hundred thousand plants of one variety grown in this manner4 ,the earth encasing the roots sustained the plants during transportation and after setting sufficiently to prevent any loss worth mentioning4 ,this method of the plant-grower can easily be employed on the ,home ,acre4 ,pots filled with earth may be sunk along the strawberry rows in the garden1 the runners made to root in them1 and from them transferred to any part of the garden wherein we propose to make a new bed4 ,it is only a neater and more certain way of removing young plants with a ball of earth from the open bed4 ,some have adopted this system in raising strawberries for market4 ,they prepare very rich beds1 fill them with pot-grown plants in ,june or ,july1 take from these plants one crop the following ,june1 then plow them under4 ,as a rule1 however1 such plants cannot be bought in quantities before ,august or ,september4 ,as we go south1 ,september1 ,october1 or ,november1 according to lowness of latitude1 are the favorite months for planting4 ,i have had excellent success on the ,hudson in late autumn planting4 ,my method has been to cover the young plants1 just before the ground froze1 with two or three inches of clean earth1 and then to rake it off again early in ,april4 ,the roots of such plants become thoroughly established during the winter1 and start with double vigor4 ,plants set out in ,,late autumn do best on light1 dry soils4 ,on heavy soils they will be frozen out unless well covered4 ,they should not be allowed to bear the following season4 ,a late-set plant cannot before winter in our climate become strong and sturdy enough to produce much fruit the following season4 ,i make it a rule not to permit plants set out after the first of ,october to bear fruit until a year from the following ,june4 ,in setting out plants1 the principle of sex should be remembered4 ,the majority of our favorite varieties are bisexual2 that is1 the blossoms are furnished with both stamens and pistils4 ,a variety with this organization1 as the ,sharpless1 for instance1 will bear alone with no other kind near it4 ,but if one set out a bed of ,champions--another fine variety--well apart from any staminate kind1 it would blossom profusely1 but produce no fruit4 ,when ,i was a boy1 ,hovey's ,seedling was the great strawberry of the day1 and marvellous stories were told of the productiveness of the plants and the size of the berries4 ,how well ,i remember the disappointment and wrath of people who bought the plants at a high price1 and set them out with no staminate varieties near to fertilize the pistillate blossoms4 ,expectations were raised to the highest pitch by profuse blossoming in ,may1 but not a berry could be found the ensuing ,june4 ,the vigorous plants were only a mockery1 and the people who sold them were berated as humbugs4 ,to-day the most highly praised strawberry is the ,jewell4 ,the originator1 ,mr4 ,p4 ,m4 ,augur1 writes me that plants set two feet by eighteen inches apart1 ,august #a1 #ahhd1 in ,june1 #ahhe1 completely covered the ground1 touching both ways1 and averaged little over a quart to the plant for the centre patch4 ,all runners were kept off1 in accordance with the system advocated in this paper4 ,at ,boston a silver medal was awarded to this variety as the best new strawberry introduced within five years4 ,people reading such laudation--well deserved1 ,i believe--might conclude the best is good enough for us1 and send for enough ,jewell plants to set out a bed4 ,if they set no others near it1 their experience would be similar to that which ,i witnessed in the case of ,hovey's ,seedling thirty odd years ago4 ,the blossom of the ,jewell contains pistils only1 and will produce no fruit unless a staminate variety is planted near4 ,i have never considered this an objection against a variety2 for why should any one wish to raise only one variety of strawberry8 ,all danger of barrenness in pistillate kinds is removed absolutely by planting staminate sorts in the same bed4 ,in nurserymen's catalogues pistillate varieties are marked ,p41 and the purchaser has merely to set out the plants within a few feet of some perfect flowering kind to secure abundant fruit4 ,as a result of much experience1 ,i will now make some suggestions as to varieties4 ,in a former paper ,i have given1 the opinions of others upon this important subject1 and one can follow the advice of such eminent authorities without misgiving4 ,the earliest strawberry that ,i have ever raised1 and one of the best flavored1 is the ,crystal ,city4 ,it is evidently a wild variety domesticated1 and it has the exquisite flavor and perfume of the field-berry4 ,it rarely fails to give us fruit in ,may1 and my children1 with the unerring taste of connoisseurs1 follow it up until the last berry is picked4 ,it would run all over the garden unchecked2 and this propensity must be severely curbed to render a bed productive4 ,keeping earliness and high flavor in view1 ,i would next recommend the ,black ,defiance4 ,it is not remarkably productive on many soils1 but the fruit is so delicious that it well deserves a place4 ,the ,duchess and ,bidwell follow in the order of ripening4 ,on my grounds they have always made enormous plants1 and yielded an abundance of good-flavored berries4 ,the ,downing is early to medium in the season of ripening1 and should be in every collection4 ,the ,indiana is said to resemble this kind1 and to be an improvement upon it4 ,miner's ,prolific is another kindred berry1 and a most excellent one4 ,among the latest berries ,i recommend the ,sharpless ,champion1 or ,windsor ,chief1 and ,parry4 ,if one wishes to raise a very large1 late1 showy berry1 let him try the ,longfellow4 ,the ,cornelia is said to grow very large and ripen late1 but ,i have not yet fruited it4 ,as ,i said fifteen or twenty years ago1 if ,i were restricted to but one variety1 ,i should choose the ,triomphe de ,gand1 a foreign kind1 but well adapted to rich1 heavy soils4 ,the berries begin to ripen early1 and last very late4 ,the ,memphis ,late has always been the last to mature on my grounds1 and1 like the ,crystal ,city1 is either a wild variety1 or else but slightly removed4 ,the ,wilson is the great berry of commerce4 ,it is not ripe when it is red1 and therefore is rarely eaten in perfection4 ,let it get almost black in its ripeness1 and it is one of the richest berries in existence4 ,with a liberal allowance of sugar and cream1 it makes a dish much too good for an average king4 ,it is also the best variety for preserving4 ,it should be remembered that all strawberries1 unlike pears1 should be allowed to mature fully before being picked4 ,many a variety is condemned because the fruit is eaten prematurely4 ,there is no richer berry in existence than the ,windsor ,chief1 yet the fruit1 when merely red1 is decidedly disagreeable4 ,the reader can now make a selection of kinds which should give him six weeks of strawberries4 ,at the same time he must be warned that plants growing in a hard1 dry1 poor soil1 and in matted beds1 yield their fruit almost together1 no matter how many varieties may have been set out4 ,under such conditions the strawberry season is brief indeed4 ,while ,i was writing this paper the chief enemy of the strawberry came blundering and bumping about my lamp--the ,may beetle4 ,the larva of this insect1 the well-known white grub1 has an insatiable appetite for strawberry roots1 and in some localities and seasons is very destructive4 ,one year ,i lost at least one hundred thousand plants by this pest4 ,this beetle does not often lay its egg in well-cultivated ground1 and we may reasonably hope to escape its ravages in a garden4 ,if1 when preparing for a bed1 many white grubs are found in the soil1 ,i should certainly advise that another locality be chosen4 ,the only remedy is to dig out the larvae and kill them4 ,if you find a plant wilting without apparent cause1 you may be sure that a grub is feeding on the roots4 ,the strawberry plant is comparatively free from insect enemies and disease1 and rarely disappoints any one who gives it a tithe of the attention it deserves4 ,there are many points in connection with this fruit which1 in a small treatise like this1 must be merely touched upon or omitted altogether4 ,i may refer those who wish to study the subject more thoroughly to my work1 ,success with ,small ,fruits4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,the ,,kitchen-,,garden ,the garden should be open to the sky1 and as far as possible unshaded by adjacent trees from the morning and afternoon sun4 ,it is even more essential that the trees be not so near that their voracious roots can make their way to the rich loam of the garden4 ,now for the soil4 ,we should naturally suppose that that of ,eden was a deep sandy loam1 with not too porous a subsoil4 ,as we have already seen again and again1 such a soil appears to be the laboratory in which we can assist ,nature to develop her best products4 ,but ,nature has a profound respect for skill1 and when she recognizes it1 lends a hand in securing excellent crops from almost drifting sand or stubborn clay4 ,she has even assisted the ,hollander in wresting from the ocean one of the gardens of the world4 ,we must again dwell on the principles already emphasized1 that soils must be treated according to their nature4 ,if too damp1 they must be drained2 if of the fortunate quality of a sandy loam resting on a clay subsoil1 they can be abundantly deepened and enriched from the start1 if of a heavy clay1 inclined to be cold and wet in spring1 and to bake and crack in summer1 skill should aim to lighten it and remove its inertia2 finally1 as we have shown1 a light1 porous soil should be treated like a spendthrift4 ,all soils1 except the last-named1 are much the better for being enriched and deeply plowed or forked in ,october or ,november4 ,this exposes the mould to the sweetening and mechanical action of frost1 and the fertilizers incorporated with it are gradually transformed into just that condition of plant food which the rootlets take up with the greatest ease and rapidity4 ,a light soil1 on the contrary1 should not be worked in autumn1 but be left intact after the crops are taken from it4 ,in one respect a light soil and a stiff1 heavy one should be treated in the same way1 but for different reasons4 ,in the first instance1 fertilizers should be applied in moderation to the surface1 and rains and the cultivation of the growing crops depended upon to carry the richness downward to the roots4 ,the porous nature of the earth must ever be borne in mind2 fertilizers pass through it and disappear1 and therefore are applied to the surface1 to delay this process and enable the roots to obtain as much nutriment as possible during the passage4 ,equal and even greater advantages are secured by a top-dressing of barnyard manures and composts to the heaviest of clay4 ,the surface of such soils1 left to ,nature1 becomes in hot1 dry weather like pottery1 baking and cracking1 shielding from dew and shower1 and preventing all circulation of air about the roots4 ,a top-dressing prevents all this1 keeps the surface open and mellow1 and supplies not only fertility1 but the mechanical conditions that are essential4 ,if we are now ready to begin1 let us begin right4 ,i have not much sympathy with finical1 fussy gardening4 ,one of the chief fascinations of gardening is the endless field it affords for skilful sleight of hand1 short-cuts1 unconventional methods1 and experiments4 ,the true gardener soon ceases to be a man of rules1 and becomes one of strategy1 of expedients4 ,he is prompt to act at the right moment4 ,like the artist1 he is ever seeking and acting upon hints from ,nature4 ,the man of rules says the first of ,july is the time to set out winter cabbage2 and out the plants go1 though the sky be brazen1 and the mercury in the nineties4 ,the gardener has his plants ready1 and for a few days watches the sky4 ,at last he perceives that rain is coming2 then he sets out his plants1 and ,nature's watering starts them1 unwilted1 on their new growth4 ,at the same time ,i protest against careless1 slovenly gardening--ground imperfectly prepared1 crooked rows1 seed half covered1 or covered so deeply that the germs are discouraged long before they reach light4 ,one of the best aids to success is a small compost-heap composed equally of manure from the horse-stable1 the cow-stable1 and of leaves4 ,this should be allowed to stand so long1 and be cut down and turned so often1 that it becomes like a fine black powder1 and is much the better for being kept under shelter from sun and rain4 ,all who hope to have a permanent garden will naturally think first of asparagus--one of the vegetables that have bee a longest in cultivation1 and one which is justly among the most valued4 ,it was cultivated hundreds of years before the ,christian era1 and is to-day growing in popular esteem among civilized peoples4 ,in the matter of preparation ,i shall take issue with many of the authorities4 ,i have read and known of instances wherein extraordinary expense and pains have been bestowed upon the asparagus-bed4 ,the soil has been dug out to the depth of two or more feet1 the bottom paved1 and the homely1 hardy roots1 accustomed to roughing it the world over1 set out and tended with a care which1 if given to a potato1 would make it open its eyes4 ,there are few more hardy or widely distributed species of vegetables than asparagus4 ,it is a native of the sea-coasts of various countries of ,europe and ,asia4 ,according to ,loudon1 it is abundant on the sandy steppes in the interior of ,russia4 ,in ,southern ,russia and ,poland the horses and cows feed upon it4 ,it grows freely in the fens of ,lincolnshire1 and is indigenous to ,cornwall4 ,on the borders of the ,euphrates the shoots are so extraordinarily large and vigorous that ,thompson thinks it would be to the advantage of gardeners to import roots from that region4 ,these facts may indicate that too much stress may have been laid on its character as a marine plant4 ,yet it is true that it grows naturally on the coast of ,holland1 in the sandy valleys and on the downs1 while off ,lizard ,point it flourishes naturally on an island where1 in gales1 the sea breaks over the roots4 ,in this country also it has escaped cultivation1 and is establishing itself along our coasts1 ,the truth is that it is a plant endowed with a remarkable power of adaptation to all soils and climates1 and does not need the extravagant petting often given it4 ,on different portions of my place chance seeds have fallen1 and annually produce almost as fine heads as are cut from the garden4 ,nature therefore teaches what experience verifies--that asparagus is one of the most easily grown and inexpensive vegetables of the garden4 ,from two small beds we have raised during the past eight years twice as much as we could use1 and at the cost of very little trouble either in planting or cultivation4 ,in my effort to show1 from the hardy nature of the asparagus plant1 that extravagant preparation is unnecessary1 let no one conclude that ,i am opposed to a good1 thorough preparation that accords with common-sense4 ,it is not for one year's crop that you are preparing1 but for a vegetable that should be productive on the same ground thirty or forty years4 ,what ,i said of strawberries applies here4 ,a fair yield of fruit may be expected from plants set out on ordinary corn-ground1 but more than double the crop would be secured from ground generously prepared4 ,when ,i first came to ,cornwall1 about twelve years ago1 ,i determined to have an asparagus bed as soon as possible4 ,i selected a plot eighty feet long by thirty wide1 of sandy loam1 sloping to the southwest4 ,it had been used as a garden before1 but was greatly impoverished4 ,i gave it a good top-dressing of barnyard manure in the autumn1 and plowed it deeply2 another top-dressing of fine yard manure and a deep forking in the early spring4 ,then1 raking the surface smooth1 ,i set a line along its length on one side4 ,a man took a spade1 sunk its length in the soil1 and pushed it forward strongly4 ,this action made an almost perpendicular wedge-shaped aperture just back of the spade4 ,the asparagus plant1 with its roots spread out fan-shape1 was sunk in this opening to a depth that left the crown of the plant between three and four inches below the surface4 ,then the spade was drawn out1 and the soil left to fall over the crown of the plant4 ,rapidly repeating this simple process1 the whole plot was soon set out4 ,the entire bed was then raked smooth4 ,the rows were three feet apart1 and plants one foot apart in the row4 ,a similar plot could scarcely have been planted with potatoes more quickly or at less expense1 and a good crop of potatoes could not have been raised on that poor land with less preparation4 ,a few years later ,i made another and smaller bed in the same way4 ,the results have been entirely satisfactory4 ,i secured my object1 and had plenty of asparagus at slight cost1 and have also sold and given away large quantities4 ,a bit of experience is often worth much more than theory4 ,at the same time it is proper that some suggestions should follow this brief record4 ,the asparagus bed should be in well-drained soil2 for while the plant will grow on wet land1 it will start late1 and our aim is to have it early4 ,again1 with asparagus as with nearly everything else1 the deeper and richer the soil1 the larger and more luxuriant the crop4 ,listen to ,thompson1 the great ,english gardener3 ,if the ground has been drained1 trenched1 or made good to the depth of ,,three feet1 as directed for the kitchen-garden generally 61 that depth will suffice for the growth of asparagus4 ,we should think so2 yet ,i am fast reaching the conclusion that under most circumstances it would in the end repay us to secure that depth of rich soil throughout our gardens1 not only for asparagus1 but for everything else4 ,few of the hasty1 slipshod gardeners of ,america have any idea of the results secured by extending root pasturage to the depth of three feet instead of six or seven inches2 soil thus prepared would defy flood and drought1 and everything planted therein would attain almost perfection1 asparagus included4 ,but who has not seen little gardens by the roadside in which all the esculents seemed growing together much as they would be blended in the pot thereafter8 ,yet from such patches1 half snatched from barrenness1 many a hearty1 wholesome dinner results4 ,let us have a garden at once1 then improve it indefinitely4 ,i will give in brief just what is essential to secure a good and lasting asparagus bed4 ,we can if we choose grow our own plants1 and thus be sure of good ones4 ,the seed can be sown in late ,october or ,,early spring on light1 rich soil in rows eighteen inches apart4 ,an ounce of seed will sow fifty feet of drill4 ,if the soil is light1 cover the seed one inch deep2 if heavy1 half an inch2 pack the ground lightly1 and cover the drill with a good dusting of that fine compost we spoke of1 or any fine manure4 ,this gives the young plants a good send-off4 ,by the use of the hoe and hand-weeding keep them scrupulously clean during the growing season1 and when the tops are killed by frost mow them off4 ,i should advise sowing two or three seeds to the inch1 and then when the plants are three inches high1 thinning them out so that they stand four inches apart4 ,you thus insure almost the certainty of good strong plants by autumn2 for plants raised as directed are ready to be set out after one season's growth1 and by most gardeners are preferred4 ,in most instances good plants can be bought for a small sum from nurserymen1 who usually offer for sale those that are two years old4 ,strong one-year-olds are just as good1 but under ordinary culture are rarely large enough until two years of age4 ,i would not set out three-year-old plants1 for they are apt to be stunted and enfeebled4 ,you can easily calculate how many plants you require by remembering that the rows are to be three feet apart1 and the plants one foot apart in the row4 ,now1 whether you have raised the plants yourself1 or have bought them1 you are ready to put them where they will grow1 and yield to the end of your life probably4 ,again ,i substantiate my position by quoting from the well-known gardener and writer1 ,mr4 ,joseph ,harris3 ,the old directions for planting an asparagus bed were well calculated to deter any one from making the attempt4 ,i can recollect the first ,i made4 ,the labor and manure must have cost at the rate of a thousand dollars an acre1 and1 after all was done1 no better results were obtained than we now secure at one-tenth of the expense4 ,if the ground selected for the bed is a well-drained sandy loam1 is clean1 free from sod1 roots1 stones1 etc41 ,i would give it a top-dressing of six inches of good barnyard manure1 which by trenching or plowing ,i would thoroughly mix with the soil to the depth of at least two feet4 ,if the ground is not free from stones1 roots1 and sod1 ,i should put on the manure1 as directed1 in the autumn1 and begin on one side of the prospective bed and trench it all over1 mingling the fertilizer through the soil4 ,the trencher can throw out on the surface back of him every stone1 root1 and weed1 so that by the time he is through there is a sufficient space of ground amply prepared4 ,on all soils except a wet1 heavy clay ,i prefer autumn planting4 ,during the latter part of ,october or early ,november put in the plants as explained above1 or else make a straight trench that will give room for the spreading of the roots1 and leave the crowns between three and four inches below the surface4 ,then level the ground1 and cover the row with a light mulch of stable-manure as you would strawberries4 ,if more convenient to set out the plants in spring1 do so as soon as the ground is dry enough to crumble freely when worked4 ,in the spring rake off the mulch1 and as early as possible fork the ground over lightly1 taking pains not to touch or wound the crowns of the plants4 ,the young1 slender shoots will soon appear1 and slender enough they will be at first4 ,keep them free of weeds and let them grow uncut all through the first year2 mow off the tops in late ,october1 and cover the entire bed with three or four inches of coarse barnyard manure4 ,in spring rake off the coarsest of this mulch1 from which the rains and melting snows have been carrying down richness1 dig the bed over lightly once 7never wounding the roots or crowns of the plants71 and then sow salt over the bed till it is barely white4 ,let the tops grow naturally and uncut the second year1 and merely keep clean4 ,take precisely the same action again in the autumn and the following spring4 ,during the latter part of ,april and ,may a few of the strongest shoots may be cut for the table4 ,this should be done with a sharp knife a little below the surface1 so that the soil may heal the wound1 and carefully1 lest other heads just beneath the surface be clipped prematurely4 ,cut from the bed very sparingly1 however1 the third year1 and let vigorous foliage form corresponding root-power4 ,in the autumn of the third and the spring of the fourth year the treatment is precisely the same4 ,in the fourth season1 however1 the shoots may be used freely to1 say1 about ,june #bj1 after which the plants should be permitted to grow unchecked till fall1 in order to maintain and increase the root-power4 ,every year thereafter there should be an abundant top-dressing of manure in the fall1 and a careful digging of the ground in the early spring4 ,light1 sandy soil1 clear of stones1 is well adapted to asparagus1 but should be treated on the principles already indicated in this work4 ,there should be no attempt1 by trenching1 to render a porous subsoil more leaky4 ,it is useless to give the bed a thorough initial enriching4 ,put on a generous top-dressing every autumn and leave the rains to do their work1 and good crops will result4 ,if1 on the contrary1 a cold1 heavy clay must be dealt with1 every effort should be made to ameliorate it4 ,work in a large quantity of sand at first1 if possible2 employ manures from the horse-stable1 or other light and exciting fertilizers1 and there will be no failure4 ,in regard to the use of salt1 ,mr4 ,harris writes3 ,it is a popular notion that common salt is exceedingly beneficial to asparagus4 ,i do not know that there is any positive proof of this1 but1 at any rate1 salt will do no harm1 even if applied thick enough to kill many of our common weeds4 ,salt is usually sown broadcast1 at the rate of ten bushels to the acre4 ,until recently ,i have grown asparagus without salt4 ,hereafter ,i shall employ it in sufficient degree to kill all weeds except the strongest4 ,i shall sow it every spring after the bed is dug until the ground is as white as if a flurry of snow had passed over it4 ,i think salt is a good manure for asparagus1 and many other things4 ,at any rate1 we secure a great advantage in keeping our beds free of weeds4 ,i have written thus fully of asparagus because when a man makes a bed as directed he makes it for a lifetime4 ,he can scarcely find another investment that will yield a larger return4 ,we have asparagus on our table every day1 from the middle of ,april to ,july #a2 and the annual care of the crop is far less than that of a cabbage-patch4 ,i do not advise severe cutting1 however1 after the middle of ,june1 for this reason3 it is well known that the most pestiferous perennial weed can be killed utterly if never allowed to make foliage4 ,as foliage depends upon the root1 so the root depends on foliage4 ,the roots of asparagus may therefore be greatly enfeebled by too severe and long-continued cutting4 ,avarice always overreaches itself4 ,in some localities the asparagus beetle destroys whole plantations4 ,thompson1 the ,english authority1 says3 ,the larvae1 beetles1 and eggs are found from ,june to the end of ,september4 ,picking off the larvae and beetles1 or shaking them into receptacles1 appears to be the only remedy4 ,peter ,henderson1 in his valuable book1 ,gardening for ,profit1 figures this insect and its larvae accurately1 and says3 ,whenever the eggs or larvae appear1 cut and burn the plants as long as any traces of the insect are seen4 ,this must be done if it destroys every vestige of vegetation4 ,he and other authorities speak of the advantage of cooping a hen and chickens in the bed4 ,most emphatically would ,i recommend this latter course1 for ,i have tried it with various vegetables4 ,active broods of little chickens here and there in the garden are the best of insecticides1 and pay for themselves twice over in this service alone4 ,we will next speak of the ,,onion1 because it is so hardy that the earlier it is planted in spring the better4 ,indeed1 ,i have often1 with great advantage1 sown the seed on light soils the first of ,september1 and wintered over the young plants in the open ground4 ,nature evidently intended the onion for humanity in general1 for she has endowed the plant with the power to flourish from the tropics to the coldest limit of the temperate zone4 ,while onions are grown in all sorts of careless ways1 like other vegetables1 it is by far the best plan to select a space for an annual and permanent bed1 just as we do for asparagus4 ,unlike most other crops1 the onion does not require change of ground1 but usually does better on the same soil for an indefinite number of years4 ,therefore ,i would advise that upon the ,home ,acre the onion1 like the asparagus bed1 should be made with a view to permanence4 ,not much success can be hoped for on rough1 poor land4 ,the onion1 like the asparagus bed1 should be made and maintained with some care4 ,if possible1 select a light1 well-drained1 but not dry plot4 ,make the soil rich1 deep1 mellow1 to the depth of twenty inches1 taking out all stones1 roots1 etc42 cover the land with at least six inches of good strong barnyard manure4 ,this should be done in the autumn4 ,sow the ground white with salt1 as in the case of asparagus1 and then mingle these fertilizers thoroughly with the soil1 by forking or plowing it at once1 leaving the surface as rough as possible1 so that the frost can penetrate deeply4 ,just as soon as the ground is dry enough to work in the spring1 fork or plow again1 breaking every lump and raking all smooth1 so that the surface is as fine as the soil in a hot-bed4 ,you cannot hope for much in heavy1 lumpy ground4 ,sow at least three seeds to the inch in a shallow drill one inch deep1 and spat the earth firmly over the seed with the back of a spade or with your hand4 ,in subsequent culture little more is required than keeping the ,,mere ,,surface stirred with a hoe1 and the rows clean of weeds4 ,onions are not benefited by deep stirring of the soil1 but the surface1 from the start1 should be kept clean and scarified an inch or two deep between the rows during the growing season4 ,i prefer to have my onions growing at the rate of one or two to every inch of row1 for ,i do not like large bulbs4 ,i think that moderate-sized onions are better for the table4 ,those who value largeness should thin out the plants to three or four inches apart2 but even in the market there is less demand for large1 coarse onions4 ,when the tops begin to fall over from their own weight1 in ,august or ,september1 leave them to mature and ripen naturally4 ,when the tops begin to dry up1 pull them from the soil1 let them dry thoroughly in the sun1 and then spread them thinly in a dry loft till there is danger of their freezing4 ,even there they will keep better1 if covered deeply with straw1 hay1 etc41 than in a damp cellar4 ,wherever the air is damp and a little too warm1 onions will speedily start to grow again1 and soon become worthless4 ,after the crop has been taken1 the ground should be treated as at first--thoroughly enriched and pulverized late in autumn1 and left to lie in a rough state during the winter1 then prepared for planting as early as possible4 ,i prefer ,march sowing of the seed to ,april1 and ,april1 by far1 to ,may4 ,in ,england they try to plant in ,february4 ,indeed1 as ,i have said1 ,i have had excellent success by sowing the seed early in ,september on light soils1 and letting the plants grow during all the mild days of fall1 winter1 and early spring4 ,by this course we have onions fit for the table and market the following ,may4 ,in this latitude they need the protection of a little coarse litter from ,december #a to about the middle of ,march4 ,only the very severest frost injures them4 ,most of us have seen onions1 overlooked in the fall gathering1 growing vigorously as soon as the thaws began in spring4 ,this fact contains all the hint we need in wintering over the vegetable in the open ground4 ,if the seed is sown late in ,september1 the plants do not usually acquire sufficient strength in this latitude to resist the frost4 ,it is necessary1 therefore1 to secure our main crop by very early spring sowings1 and it may be said here that after the second thorough pulverization of the soil in spring1 the ground will be in such good condition that1 if well enriched and stirred late in autumn1 it will only need levelling down and smoothing off before the spring sowing4 ,onions appear to do best on a compact soil1 if rich1 deep1 and clean4 ,it is the ,,surface merely that needs to be stirred lightly and frequently4 ,if young green onions with thin1 succulent tops are desired very early in spring1 it will be an interesting experiment to sow the seed the latter part of ,august or early in ,september4 ,another method is to leave a row of onions in the garden where they ripened4 ,when the autumn rains begin1 they will start to grow again4 ,the winter will not harm them1 and even in ,april there will be a strong growth of green tops4 ,the seed stalk should be picked off as soon as it appears in spring1 or else the whole strength will speedily go to the formation of seed4 ,it should be remembered that good onions can not be produced very far to the south by sowing the small gunpowder-like seed4 ,in our own and especially in warmer climates a great advantage is secured by employing what are known as onion sets4 ,these are produced by sowing the ordinary black seed very thickly on light poor land4 ,being much crowded1 and not having much nutriment1 the seed develop into little onions from the size of a pea to that of a walnut1 the smaller the better1 if they are solid and plump4 ,these1 pressed or sunk1 about three inches apart1 into rich garden soil about an inch deep1 just as soon as the frost is out1 make fine bulbs by the middle of ,june4 ,for instance1 we had in our garden plenty of onions three inches in diameter from these little sets1 while the seed1 sown at the same time1 will not yield good bulbs before ,august4 ,there is but little need of raising these sets1 for it is rather difficult to keep them in good condition over the winter4 ,any seedsman will furnish them1 and they are usually on sale at country stores4 ,three or four quarts1 if in good condition1 will supply a family abundantly1 and leave many to be used dry during the autumn4 ,insist on plump little bulbs4 ,if you plant them early1 as you should1 you will be more apt to get good sets4 ,many neglect the planting till the sets are half dried up1 or so badly sprouted as to be wellnigh worthless4 ,they usually come in the form of white and yellow sets1 and ,i plant an equal number of each4 ,the chief insect enemies are onion maggots1 the larvae of the onion fly4 ,these bore through the outer leaf and down into the bulb1 which they soon destroy4 ,i know of no remedy but to pull up the yellow and sickly plants1 and burn them and the pests together4 ,the free use of salt in the fall1 and a light top-dressing of wood-ashes at the time of planting1 tend to subdue these insects2 but the best course is prevention by deeply cultivating and thoroughly enriching in the fall1 leaving the ground rough and uneven for the deep action of frost1 and by sowing the seed ,,very early in spring4 ,i have found that the insect usually attacks late-sown and feeble plants4 ,if the maggot were in my garden1 ,i should use the little sets only4 ,some special manures have been employed in attaining the greatest success with this vegetable4 ,in ,england1 pigeon-dung and the cleanings of the pigsty are extensively employed4 ,in this country the sweepings of the hen-roost are generally recommended4 ,it should be remembered that all these are strong agents1 and if brought in contact with the roots of any vegetable while in a crude1 undiluted state1 burn like fire1 especially in our climate4 ,what can be done in safety in ,england will not answer under our vivid sun and in our frequent droughts4 ,these strong fertilizers could be doubled in value as well as bulk by being composted with sods1 leaves1 etc41 and then1 after having been mixed1 allowed to decay thoroughly4 ,then the compost can be used with great advantage as a top-dressing directly over the drills when either sets or seeds are planted4 ,the spring rains will carry the richness from the surface to the roots1 and insure a very vigorous growth4 ,when the compost named in the early part of this paper is used1 ,i sow it thickly ,,in the drill1 draw a pointed hoe through once more1 to mingle the fertilizer with the soil1 and then forthwith sow the seeds or put in the sets one inch deep2 and the result is immediate and vigorous growth4 ,wood-ashes and bone-dust are excellent fertilizers1 and should be sown on the surface on the row as soon as planted1 and gradually worked in by weeding and cultivation during the growing season4 ,manure from the pigsty1 wherein weeds1 litter1 sods1 muck1 etc41 have been thrown freely during the summer1 may be spread broadcast over the onion bed in the autumn1 and worked in deeply1 like the product of the barnyard4 ,the onion bed can scarcely be made too rich as long as the manure is not applied in its crude1 unfermented state at the time of planting4 ,then1 if the seed is put in very early1 it grows too strongly and quickly for insects to do much damage4 ,varieties4--,thompson in his ,english work names nineteen varieties with many synonyms2 ,henderson offers the seed of thirteen varieties2 ,gregory1 of seventeen kinds4 ,there is no need of our being confused by this latitude of choice4 ,we find it in the great majority of fruits and vegetables offered by nurserymen and seedsmen4 ,each of the old varieties that have survived the test of years has certain good qualities which make it valuable1 especially in certain localities4 ,many of the novelties in vegetables1 as among fruits1 will soon disappear2 a few will take their place among the standard sorts4 ,in the case of the kitchen1 as well as in the fruit1 garden1 ,i shall give the opinion of men who have a celebrity as wide as the continent for actual experience1 and modestly add occasionally some views of my own which are the result of observation4 ,as a choice for the home-garden1 ,mr4 ,henderson recommends the following varieties of onions3 ,extra ,early ,red1 ,yellow ,globe ,danvers1 ,white ,portugal or ,silver ,skin1 and ,southport ,yellow ,globe4 ,mr4 ,joseph ,harris1 the well-known and practical author3 ,yellow ,danvers1 ,extra ,early ,large ,bed1 and ,white ,globe4 ,mr4 ,j4 ,j4 ,h4 ,gregory3 ,new ,queen1 ,early ,yellow ,acker1 ,yellow ,danvers1 ,early ,red ,globe ,danvers1 ,large ,red ,wethersfield4 ,they all recommend onion sets4 ,the ,queen onion is quite distinct4 ,for the home table1 where earliness1 as well as quality1 size and quantity is desired1 ,i think the ,queen deserves a place4 ,it is admirably fitted for pickling4 ,i have tried all the varieties named1 with good success1 and grown some of the largest kinds to six inches in diameter4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,the ,,kitchen-,,garden 7concluded7 ,in the last chapter ,i dwelt somewhat at length on two vegetables for which thorough and enduring preparation is profitable4 ,there is one other very early garden product which requires our attention during the first warm days of spring--rhubarb2 sold in some instances under the name of wine-plant4 ,wine is made from the juicy stalks1 but it is an unwholesome beverage4 ,the people call rhubarb pie-plant2 and this term suggests its best and most common use1 although when cooked as if it were a fruit1 it is very grateful at a season when we begin to crave the subacid in our food4 ,its cultivation is very simple4 ,those who propose to produce it largely for market will find it to their advantage to raise this plant from the seed2 but for the ,home ,acre enough plants can be procured1 at a moderate cost1 from almost any nurseryman4 ,in this instance1 also1 thorough preparation of the soil is essential1 for the rhubarb bed1 under good care1 will last eight or ten years4 ,a rich1 deep1 clean1 warm soil is the chief essential4 ,it belongs to that class of vegetables known as gross feeders4 ,during the first year1 however1 ,i would apply the fertiliser directly to the hills or plants4 ,these are obtained by dividing the old roots1 which may be cut to pieces downward so as to leave a single bud or eye surmounting a long tapering portion of root4 ,each division will make a new1 vigorous plant1 which should be set out so that the bud or crown is three inches below the surface in light soils1 and two inches in heavy soils4 ,the plants should be four feet apart each way1 and two or three shovelfuls of rich compost worked into the soil where the plant is to stand4 ,you cannot make the ground too rich2 only remember that in this1 as in all other instances1 light1 fermenting manures should not be brought into immediate contact with the roots4 ,plant in either autumn or spring4 ,in this latitude and southward ,i should prefer autumn2 northward1 perhaps spring is the best season4 ,keep the intervening ground clean and mellow1 and pull no stalks the first year1 unless it be in the autumn if the plants have become very strong4 ,in the fall1 when the foliage has died down1 cover the crowns with two or three shovelfuls of rich manure--any kind will do in this instance--and work in a heavy top-dressing all over the ground early in spring4 ,unless seed is required1 always cut down the seed-stalks as soon as they appear4 ,the best early variety is the ,linnaeus4 ,the ,victoria is a little later1 but much larger1 and is the kind that ,i have usually grown4 ,radish-seed may be sown one inch deep as soon as the ground is dry enough in spring1 and if the vegetable is a favorite1 the sowing may be repeated every two weeks4 ,a common error is to sow the seed too thickly4 ,a warm1 ,,rich soil is all that is necessary to secure a crop4 ,what has been said about radishes applies equally to early turnips1 with the exception that the plants when three inches high should be thinned so as to stand four inches apart4 ,the ground for these vegetables should be very rich1 so as to secure a very rapid growth2 for otherwise they are attacked by a little white worm which soon renders them unfit for use4 ,mr4 ,harris recommends the following varieties of early radishes1 and his selection coincides with my own experience3 ,bound ,scarlet ,turnip1 ,french ,breakfast1 ,rose 7olive-shaped71 ,long ,scarlet ,short-top4 ,winter radishes3 ,california ,mammoth ,white1 and ,chinese ,rose4 ,for spring sowing of turnips1 ,mr4 ,henderson recommends ,red-top ,strap-leaf1 and ,early ,flat ,dutch4 ,the earlier they are sown the better4 ,beets--a much more valuable vegetable--require similar treatment4 ,the ground should be clean1 well pulverized1 and very rich4 ,i prefer to sow the seed the first week in ,april1 unless the soil is frozen1 or very cold and wet4 ,the seed may be sown1 however1 at any time to the first of ,july2 but earliness is usually our chief aim4 ,i sow two inches deep and thickly1 pressing the soil firmly over the seed4 ,let the rows be about fifteen inches apart4 ,referring to the manure which had been left to decay in a sheltered place until it became like fine dry powder1 let me say here that ,i have always found it of greater advantage to sow it with the beet-seed and kindred vegetables4 ,my method is to open the drill along the garden-line with a sharp-pointed hoe1 and scatter the fertilizer in the drill until the soil is quite blackened by it2 then draw the pointed hoe through once more1 to mingle the powdery manure with the soil and to make the drill of an even depth2 then sow the seed at once4 ,this thoroughly decayed stable-manure has become the best of plant-food2 it warms the ground1 and carries the germinating seed and young plants with vigor through the first cold1 wet weeks4 ,in the home garden there are several reasons for sowing beet-seed thickly4 ,unfavorable weather and insects will be less apt to cause a thin1 broken stand of plants4 ,in order to produce good roots1 however1 the plants should be thinned out so as to stand eventually three or four inches apart ,i do not advise very large1 coarse roots for the table4 ,for home use ,i think only three varieties are essential4 ,the ,egyptian ,turnip ,beet is the best very early variety1 and can be planted closely1 as it has a small top2 the ,bassano is next in earliness1 and requires more room2 the ,early ,blood ,turnip is the best for a general crop and winter use4 ,the beet is a root which deteriorates rapidly from age2 ,i therefore advise that the seed of the winter supply be sown the last of ,june or first of ,july in our latitude4 ,parsnips should be sown at the same time with early beets and in the same way1 with the exception that the seed should be covered only an inch deep4 ,i doubt whether there are any marked distinctions in variety1 and would advise that only the ,long ,smooth or ,hollow-crowned be sown4 ,the carrot is not quite so hardy as the parsnip1 and the seed may be sown a week or two later1 or indeed at any time up to the middle of ,june4 ,its culture and treatment are precisely like those of the parsnip2 but the roots should be gathered and stored before a severe frost occurs4 ,for home use a short row of the ,early ,horn will answer2 for the general crop1 sow the ,long ,orange4 ,vegetable-oyster1 or salsify1 is another root-crop which may be treated precisely like the parsnip1 and the seed sown at the same time4 ,the seed should be sown in a deep1 rich1 mellow soil1 which is all the better for being prepared in autumn4 ,plant1 as early in ,april as possible1 in the same manner as described for beets1 thin out to four inches apart1 and keep the soil clean and mellow throughout the entire season2 for this vegetable grows until the ground freezes4 ,there is only one variety4 ,the pea is another crop which may be put into the ground as soon as the frost is out--the earlier the better1 if the smooth1 hardy varieties are sown4 ,there are so many varieties that the novice to-day may well be excused for perplexity in choice4 ,thompson1 the ,english authority1 gives forty kinds1 and one hundred and forty-eight synonyms4 ,mr4 ,gregory recommends the ,american ,wonder1 ,bliss's ,abundance1 ,bliss's ,ever-bearing1 ,mc,lean's ,advancer1 ,yorkshire ,hero1 ,stratagem1 and ,champion of ,england4 ,mr4 ,henderson's list includes ,henderson's ,first of ,all1 ,american ,wonder1 ,bliss's ,abundance1 ,champion of ,england1 and ,pride of the ,market4 ,mr4 ,harris in his catalogue marks first and best1 ,american ,wonder1 and also says1 ,for the main crop there is nothing better than the ,champion of ,england4 ,my own experience would lead me to plant the ,tom ,thumb either just before the ground froze in the fall1 or as early in ,march as possible4 ,it is almost perfectly hardy1 and gives me the earliest picking4 ,i should also plant ,henderson's ,first of ,all as soon as the frost was out1 on a warm1 well-drained soil4 ,for second crops1 ,american ,wonder and ,premium ,gem2 and for the main and most satisfactory crop of all1 ,champion of ,england4 ,the ,champion requires brush as a support1 for it grows from four to six feet high2 but it is well worth the trouble4 ,i plant the other kinds named because they are much earlier1 and so dwarf as to need no brush2 they are also productive1 and excellent in quality if not left to grow too old4 ,for the dwarf kinds the soil cannot be too rich1 and the warmer the ground and exposure1 the earlier the crop4 ,for the tall late sorts the soil may easily be made too fertile2 they should also be planted in cooler1 moister1 and heavier ground4 ,in the case of the dwarfs ,i put a fertilizer in with the seed as ,i have already explained4 ,cover the dwarfs about two and a half inches deep1 and the tall late sorts from three to four inches according to the nature of the soil4 ,plant the ,champion of ,england every ten days until the middle of ,june1 and thus secure a succession of the best of all4 ,we all know how numerous have been the varieties of potato introduced into this country of late years--many kinds sent out at first at the rate of one or more dollars per pound4 ,i amuse myself by trying several of these novelties 7after they become cheap7 every year1 and one season raised very early crops of excellent potatoes from the ,vanguard and ,pearl of ,savoy4 ,the ,early ,rose and ,early ,vermont have long been favorites4 ,they resemble each other very closely4 ,i have had excellent success with the ,beauty of ,hebron4 ,it is a good plan to learn what varieties succeed well in our own neighborhood1 and then to plant chiefly of such kinds2 we may then add to our zest by trying a few novelties4 ,not only much reading on the subject1 but also my own observation1 and the general law that like produces like1 lead me to indorse the practice of planting large tubers cut into sets containing one or more eyes1 or buds4 ,the eye of a potato is a bud from which the plant grows2 and the stronger backing it has1 the stronger and more able is the plant to evolve new fine tubers through the action of its roots and foliage4 ,a small potato has many immature buds1 which as a rule produce feeble plants4 ,the potato will grow on almost any soil2 but a dry1 rich1 sandy loam gives the best1 if not the largest1 yield4 ,i do not think the potato can be planted too early after the ground is fit to work4 ,one spring ,i was able to get in several rows the #aeth of ,march1 and ,i never had a finer yield4 ,i observe that ,mr4 ,harris strongly indorses this plan4 ,nearly every one has his system of planting4 ,there is no necessity for explaining these methods4 ,i will briefly give mine1 for what it is worth4 ,i prefer warm1 well-drained soils4 ,plow deeply in autumn1 also in spring2 harrow and pulverize the ground as completely as possible2 then open the furrows with the same heavy plow1 sinking it to the beam1 and going twice in the furrow4 ,this1 of course1 would make too deep a trench in which to place the sets1 but the soil has been deepened and pulverized at least fourteen inches4 ,a man next goes along with a cart or barrow of well-decayed compost 7not very raw manure71 which is scattered freely in the deep furrows2 then through these a corn-plow is run1 to mingle the fertilizer with the soil4 ,by this course the furrows are partially filled with loose1 friable soil and manure1 and they average four or five inches in depth4 ,the sets are planted at once eight inches apart1 the eye turned upward1 and the cut part down4 ,the sets are then covered with three or four inches of fine soil1 not with sods and stones4 ,when the plants are two or three inches high1 they receive their first hoeing1 which merely levels the ground evenly4 ,the next cultivation is performed by both corn-plow and hoe4 ,in the final working ,i do not permit a sharp-slanting slope from the plants downward1 so that the rain is kept from reaching the roots4 ,there is a broad hilling up1 so as to have a slope inward toward the plants1 as well as away from them4 ,this method1 with the deep1 loosened soil beneath the plants1 secures against drought1 while the decayed fertilizers give a strong and immediate growth4 ,of course we have to fight the potato1 or ,colorado1 beetle during the growing season4 ,this we do with ,paris green applied in liquid form1 a heaping teaspoonful to a pail of water4 ,in taking up and storing potatoes a very common error is fallen into4 ,sometimes even growing tubers are so exposed to sun and light that they become green4 ,in this condition they are not only worthless1 but poisonous4 ,if long exposed to light after being dug1 the solanine principle1 which exists chiefly in the stems and leaves1 is developed in the tubers4 ,the more they are in the light1 the less value they possess1 until they become worse than worthless4 ,they should be dug1 if possible1 on a dry day1 picked up promptly and carried to a dry1 cool1 ,,dark cellar4 ,if stored on floors of outbuldings1 the light should be excluded4 ,potatoes that are long exposed to light before the shops of dealers are injured4 ,barrels1 etc41 containing them should be covered2 if spread on the barn-floor1 or in places which can not be darkened1 throw straw or some other litter over them4 ,there is no occasion to say much about lettuce4 ,it is a vegetable which any one can raise who will sow the seed a quarter of an inch deep4 ,i have sowed the seed in ,september1 wintered the plants over in cold-frames1 and by giving a little heat1 ,i had an abundance of heads to sell in ,february and ,march4 ,for ordinary home uses it is necessary only to sow the seed on a warm1 rich spot as soon as the frost is out1 and you will quickly have plenty of tender foliage4 ,this we may begin to thin out as soon as the plants are three or four inches high1 until a foot of space is left between the plants1 which1 if of a cabbage variety1 will speedily make a large1 crisp head4 ,to maintain a supply1 sowings can be made every two weeks till the middle of ,august4 ,hardy plants1 which may be set out like cabbages1 are to be obtained in ,march and ,april from nurserymen4 ,henderson recommends the following varieties3 ,henderson's ,new ,york1 ,black-seeded ,simpson1 ,salamander1 and ,all the ,year ,round4 ,i would also add the ,black-seeded ,butter ,lettuce4 ,we have now1 as far as our space permits1 treated of those vegetables which should be planted in the home garden as early in spring as possible4 ,it is true the reader will think of other sorts1 as cabbage1 cauliflower1 spinach1 etc4 ,to the professional gardener these are all-the-year-round vegetables4 ,if the amateur becomes so interested in his garden as to have cold-frames and hot-beds1 he will learn from more extended works how to manage these4 ,he will winter over the cabbage and kindred vegetables for his earliest supply1 having first sown the seed in ,september4 ,i do not take the trouble to do this1 and others need not1 unless it is a source of enjoyment to them4 ,as soon as the ground is fit to work in spring1 ,i merely write to some trust-worthy dealer in plants and obtain twenty-five very early cabbage1 and twenty-five second early1 also a hundred early cauliflower4 ,they cost little1 and are set out in half an hour as soon as the ground is fit to work in spring4 ,i usually purchase my tomato1 late cabbage1 and cauliflower1 celery and egg-plants1 from the same sources4 ,cabbages and cauliflowers should be set out in ,,rich warm soils1 free from shade1 as soon as the frost is out4 ,after that they need only frequent and clean culture and vigilant watchfulness1 or else many will fall victims to a dirty brown worm which usually cuts the stem1 and leaves the plant lying on the ground4 ,the worm can easily be found near the surface the moment it begins its ravages1 and the only remedy ,i know is to catch and kill it at once4 ,in this latitude winter cabbage is set out about the fourth of ,july4 ,i pinch off half the leaves before setting4 ,good seed1 deep plowing or spading1 rich soil1 and clean culture are usually the only requisites for success4 ,experience and consultation of the books and catalogues enable me to recommend the ,jersey ,wakefield for first early1 and ,henderson's ,summer ,cabbage and ,winningstadt as second early4 ,as a late root ,i ask for nothing better than ,premium ,flat ,dutch4 ,the ,savoy is the best flavored of the cabbage tribe4 ,henderson recommends the ,netted ,savoy1 which may be treated like other late cabbage4 ,the cauliflower is ranked among the chief delicacies of the garden1 and requires and repays far more attention than cabbage4 ,even the early sorts should have a richer1 moister soil than is required for very early cabbage4 ,i advise two plantings in spring1 of first and second early2 ,i also advise that late varieties be set out on ,,rich ground the last of ,june4 ,as with cabbage1 set out the plants from two and a half to three feet apart1 according to the size of the variety1 from trial ,i recommend ,early ,snowball1 ,half-early ,paris1 and ,large ,late ,algiers4 ,spinach thrives in a very rich1 well-drained1 fine1 mellow soil4 ,i prefer a sunny slope2 but this is not necessary4 ,sow the seed from the first to the fifteenth of ,september1 so as to give the plants time to become half grown by winter4 ,cover the seeds--three to an inch--two inches deep1 and pack the ground well over them2 let the rows be three inches apart4 ,when the plants are three inches high1 thin out to three inches apart1 and keep the soil clean and mellow about them4 ,just before hard freezing weather1 scatter about three inches of straw1 old pea-vines1 or some light litter over the whole bed4 ,as soon as the days begin to grow warm in spring1 and hard frost ceases1 rake this off4 ,the hardy vegetable begins to grow at once1 and should be cut for use so as to leave the plants finally six inches apart1 for as fast as space is given1 the plants fill it up4 ,by those who are fond of spinach it may be sown in spring as soon as the frost is out4 ,it quickly runs to seed in hot weather1 and thinnings of young beets may take its place where space is limited4 ,the ,round or ,summer is good for fall or spring planting4 ,those who need much instruction in regard to bush-beans should remain in the city and raise cats in their paved back yards4 ,we shall only warn against planting too early--not before the last of ,april in our region4 ,it does not take much frost to destroy the plants1 and if the soil is cold and wet1 the beans decay instead of coming up4 ,if one has a warm1 sheltered slope1 he may begin planting the middle of ,april4 ,as a rule1 however1 bush-beans may be planted from the first of ,may till the middle of ,july1 in order to keep up a succession4 ,cover the first seed planted one inch deep2 later plantings two inches deep4 ,i think that earliest ,red ,valentine1 ,black ,wax or ,butter1 ,golden ,wax1 and the late ,refugee are all the varieties needed for the garden4 ,the delicious pale ,lima bean requires and deserves more attention4 ,i have always succeeded with it1 and this has been my method3 ,i take a warm1 rich1 but not dry piece of ground1 work it deeply early in spring1 again the first of ,may1 so that the sun's rays may penetrate and sweeten the ground4 ,about the tenth of ,may ,i set the poles firmly in the ground4 ,rough cedar-poles1 with the stubs of the branches extending a little1 are the best4 ,if smooth poles are used1 ,i take a hatchet1 and beginning at the butt1 ,i make shallow1 slanting cuts downward1 so as to raise the bark a little4 ,these slight raisings of the bark or wood serve as supports to the clambering vines4 ,after the poles are in the ground ,i make a broad1 flat hill of loose soil and a little of the black powdery fertilizer4 ,i then allow the sun to warm and dry the hill a few days1 and if the weather is fine and warm1 ,i plant the seed about the fifteenth1 merely pressing the eye of the bean downward one inch4 ,if planted lower than this depth1 they usually decay4 ,if it is warm and early1 the seed may be planted by the fifth of ,may4 ,after planting1 examine the seed often4 ,if the beans are decaying instead of coming up1 plant over again1 and repeat this process until there are three or four strong plants within three or four inches of each pole4 ,let the hills be five feet apart each way1 hoe often1 and do not tolerate a weed4 ,the ,long ,white ,lima and ,dreer's ,improved ,lima are the only sorts needed4 ,the ,indians in their succotash taught us long ago to associate corn with beans1 and they hit upon a dish not surpassed by modern invention4 ,this delicious vegetable is as easily raised as its hail-fellow well met1 the bean4 ,we have only to plant it at the same time in hills from three to four feet apart1 and cover the seed two inches deep4 ,i have used the powdery fertilizers and wood-ashes in the hill to great advantage1 first mingling these ingredients well with the soil4 ,we make it a point to have sweet-corn for the table from ,july #a until the stalks are killed by frost in ,october4 ,this is easily managed by planting different varieties1 and continuing to plant till well into ,june4 ,mr4 ,gregory writes3 ,for a succession of corn for family use1 to be planted at the same time1 ,i would recommend ,marblehead ,early1 ,pratt's1 ,crosley's1 ,moore's1 ,stowell's ,evergreen1 and ,egyptian ,sweet4 ,mr4 ,harris names with praise the ,minnesota as the best earliest1 and ,hickox ,improved as an exceedingly large and late variety4 ,mr4 ,henderson's list is ,henderson ,sugar1 ,hickox ,improved1 ,egyptian1 and ,stowell's ,evergreen4 ,let me add ,burr's ,mammoth and ,squantum ,sugar--a variety in great favor with the ,squantum ,club1 and used by them in their famous clam-bakes4 ,the cucumber1 if grown in the home garden and used fresh1 is not in league with the undertaker4 ,the seed may be planted early in ,may1 and there are many ways of forcing and hastening the yield4 ,i have had cucumbers very early in an ordinary hotbed4 ,outdoors1 ,i make hills in warm soil the first of ,may1 mixing a little of my favorite fertilizer with the soil4 ,after leaving the hill for a day or two to become warm in the sun1 ,i sow the seed in a straight line for fifteen inches1 so that the hoe can approach them closely4 ,the seed is covered an inch deep1 and the soil patted down firmly4 ,it is possible that a cold storm or that insects may make partial planting over necessary2 if so1 this is done promptly4 ,i put twenty seeds in the hill1 to insure against loss4 ,for a succession or long-continued crop1 plant a few hills in rich moist land about the last of ,may4 ,the young plants always run a gauntlet of insects1 and a little striped bug is usually their most deadly enemy4 ,these bugs often appear to come suddenly in swarms1 and devour everything before you are aware of their presence4 ,with great vigilance they may be kept off by hand1 for their stay is brief4 ,i would advise one trial of a solution of white hellebore1 a tablespoonful to a pail of water4 ,paris green--in solution1 of course--kills them2 but unless it is very weak1 it will kill or stunt the plants also4 ,my musk and watermelons were watered by too strong a solution of ,paris green this year1 and they never recovered from it4 ,perhaps the best preventive is to plant so much seed1 and to plant over so often1 that although the insects do their worst1 plenty of good plants survive4 ,this has usually been my method4 ,when the striped bug disappears1 and the plants are four or five inches high1 ,i thin out to four plants in the hill4 ,when they come into bearing1 pick off all the fruit fit for use1 whether you want it or not4 ,if many are allowed to become yellow and go to seed1 the growth and productiveness of the vines are checked4 ,the ,early ,white ,spine and ,extra ,long ,white ,spine are all the varieties needed for the table4 ,for pickling purposes plant the ,green ,prolific on moist rich land4 ,the other varieties answer quite as well1 if picked before they are too large4 ,the cultivation of the squash is substantially the same as that of the cucumber1 and it has nearly the same enemies to contend with4 ,let the hills of the bush sorts be four feet apart each way1 and eight feet for the running varieties4 ,the seed is cheap1 so use plenty1 and plant over from the first to the twenty-fifth of ,may1 until you have three good strong plants to the hill4 ,three are plenty1 so thin out the plants1 when six or seven inches high1 to this number1 and keep the ground clean and mellow4 ,i usually raise my running squashes among the corn1 giving up one hill to them completely every seven or eight feet each way4 ,early bush sorts3 ,white ,bush ,scalloped1 ,yellow ,bush ,scalloped4 ,the ,perfect ,gem is good for both summer and winter1 and should be planted on rich soil1 six feet apart each way4 ,the ,boston ,marrow is one of the best fall sorts2 the ,hubbard and ,marblehead are the best winter varieties4 ,when we come to plant musk-melons we must keep them well away from the two above-named vegetables1 or else their pollen will mix1 producing very disagreeable hybrids4 ,a squash is very good in its way1 and a melon is much better2 but if you grow them so near each other that they become 'alf and 'alf1 you may perhaps find pigs that will eat them4 ,the more completely the melon-patch is by itself1 the better1 and the nearer the house the better2 for while it is liable to all the insects and diseases which attack the cucumber1 it encounters1 when the fruit is mature1 a more fatal enemy in the predatory small boy4 ,choose rich1 warm1 but not dry ground for musk-melons1 make the hills six feet apart each way1 and treat them like cucumbers1 employing an abundance of seed4 ,as soon as the plants are ready to run1 thin out so as to leave only four to fruit4 ,henderson recommends ,montreal ,market1 ,hackensack1 and ,netted ,gem4 ,gregory3 ,netted ,gem1 ,boston ,pet1 ,bay ,view1 ,sill's ,hybrid1 ,casaba1 and ,ward's ,nectar4 ,he also advocates a remarkable novelty known as the ,banana4 ,harris3 ,early ,christiana and ,montreal ,market4 ,water-melons should be planted eight feet apart2 but if one has not a warm1 sandy soil1 ,i do not advise their culture4 ,the time of planting and management do not vary materially from those of the musk variety4 ,the following kinds will scarcely fail to give satisfaction where they can be grown3 ,phinney's ,early1 ,black ,spanish1 ,mammoth ,ironclad1 ,mountain ,sprout1 ,scaly ,bark1 and ,cuban ,queen4 ,the tomato has a curious history4 ,native of ,south ,america like the potato1 it is said to have been introduced into ,england as early as #aeif4 ,many years elapsed before it was used as food1 and the botanical name given to it was significant of the estimation in which it was held by our forefathers4 ,it was called ,lycopersicum--a compound term meaning wolf and peach2 indicating that1 notwithstanding its beauty1 it was regarded as a sort of ,dead ,sea fruit4 ,the ,italians first dared to use it freely2 the ,french followed2 and after eying it askance as a novelty for unknown years1 ,john ,bull ventured to taste1 and having survived1 began to eat with increasing gusto4 ,to our grandmothers in this land the ruby fruit was given as love-apples1 which1 adorning quaint old bureaus1 were devoured by dreamy eyes long before canning factories were within the ken of even a ,yankee's vision4 ,now1 tomatoes vie with the potato as a general article of food1 and one can scarcely visit a quarter of the globe so remote but he will find that the tomato-can has been there before him4 ,culture of the tomato is so easy that one year ,i had bushels of the finest fruit from plants that grew here and there by chance4 ,skill is required only in producing an early crop2 and to secure this end the earlier the plants are started in spring1 the better4 ,those who have glass will experience no difficulty whatever4 ,the seed may be sown in a greenhouse as early as ,january1 and the plants potted when three inches high1 transferred to larger pots from time to time as they grow1 and by the middle of ,may put into the open ground full of blossoms and immature fruit4 ,indeed1 plants started early in the fall will give in a greenhouse a good supply all winter4 ,tomatoes also grow readily in hot-beds1 cold-frames1 or sunny windows4 ,we can usually buy well-forwarded plants from those who raise them for sale4 ,if these are set out early in ,may on a sunny slope1 they mature rapidly1 and give an early yield4 ,the tomato is very sensitive to frost1 and should not be in the open ground before danger from it is over4 ,throughout ,may we may find plants for sale everywhere4 ,if we desire to try distinct kinds with the least trouble1 we can sow the seed about ,may #a1 and in our climate enjoy an abundant yield in ,september1 or before4 ,in the cool1 humid climate of ,england the tomato is usually grown en espalier1 like the peach1 along sunny walls and fences1 receiving as careful a summer pruning as the grape-vine4 ,with us it is usually left to sprawl over the ground at will4 ,by training the vines over various kinds of supports1 however1 they may be made as ornamental as they are useful4 ,the ground on which they grow should be only moderately fertile1 or else there is too great a growth of vine at the expense of fruit4 ,this is especially true if we desire an early yield1 and in this case the warmest1 driest soil is necessary4 ,but comparatively a few years ago the tomato consisted of little more than a rind1 with seeds in the hollow centre4 ,now1 the only varieties worth raising cut as solid as a mellow pear4 ,the following is ,gregory's list of varieties3 ,livingston's ,beauty1 ,alpha1 ,acme1 ,canada ,victor1 ,arlington1 ,general ,grant4 ,i will add ,trophy and ,mikado4 ,if a yellow variety is desired1 try ,golden ,trophy4 ,if the tomato needs warm weather in which to thrive1 the egg-plant requires that both days and nights should be hot4 ,it is an ,east ,indiaman1 and demands curry in the way of temperature before it loses its feeble yellow aspect and takes on the dark green of vigorous health4 ,my method is simply this3 ,i purchase strong potted plants between the twentieth of ,may and the first of ,june1 and set them out in a rich1 warm soil4 ,a dozen well-grown plants will supply a large family with egg-fruit4 ,of course one can start the young plants themselves1 as in the case of tomatoes2 but it should be remembered that they are much more tender and difficult to raise than is the tomato4 ,plants from seed sown in the open ground would not mature in our latitude1 as a rule4 ,the best plan is to have the number you need grown for you by those who make it their business4 ,eggplants are choice morsels for the potato-beetle1 and they must be watched vigilantly if we would save them4 ,there is no better variety than the ,new ,york ,improved4 ,the pepper is another hot-blooded vegetable that shivers at the suggestion of frost4 ,it is fitting that it should be a native of ,india4 ,its treatment is usually the same as that of the egg-plant4 ,it matures more rapidly1 however1 and the seed can be sown about the middle of ,may1 half an inch deep1 in rows fifteen inches apart4 ,the soil should be rich and warm4 ,when the plants are well up1 they should be thinned so that they will stand a foot apart in the row4 ,the usual course1 however1 is to set out plants which have been started under glass1 after all danger from frost is over4 ,henderson recommends ,new ,sweet ,spanish and ,golden ,dawn1 ,the ,large ,bell is a popular sort1 and ,cherry ,red very ornamental4 ,from the okra is made the famous gumbo soup1 which ever calls to vision a colored aunty presiding over the mysteries of a ,southern dinner4 ,if ,aunt ,dinah1 so well known to us from the pages of ,uncle ,tom's ,cabin1 could have left her receipt for this compound1 her fame might have lasted as long as that of ,mrs4 ,stowe4 ,the vegetable furnishing this glutinous1 nutritious1 and wholesome ingredient is as easily raised as any product of the garden4 ,we have only to sow the seed1 from the first to the tenth of ,may1 two inches deep1 and let the plants stand from two to three feet apart each way1 in order to have an abundant supply4 ,the new ,dwarf ,prolific is about the best variety4 ,fall turnips are so easily grown that they require but few words4 ,they are valuable vegetables for utilizing space in the garden after early crops1 as peas1 beans1 potatoes1 etc41 are removed4 ,the seed of ruta-baga1 or ,swedish turnips1 should be planted earliest--from the twentieth of ,june to the tenth of ,july in our latitude4 ,this turnip should be sown in drills two feet apart1 and the plants thinned to eight inches from one another4 ,it is very hardy1 and the roots are close-grained1 solid1 and equally good for the table and the family cow4 ,the ,yellow ,aberdeen is another excellent variety1 which may be sown ,,early in ,july1 and treated much the same as the foregoing4 ,the ,yellow ,stone can be sown on good ground until the fifteenth of ,july in any good garden soil1 and the plants thinned to six inches apart4 ,it is perhaps the most satisfactory of all the turnip tribe both for table use and stock4 ,the ,bed-top ,strap-leaf may be sown anywhere until the tenth of ,august4 ,it is a general custom1 in the middle of ,july1 to scatter some seed of this hardy variety among the corn3 hoe it in lightly1 and there is usually a good crop4 ,every vacant spot may be utilized by incurring only the slight cost of the seed and the sowing4 ,it may be well1 perhaps1 to remember the advice of the old farmer to his son4 ,he said1 ,stub your toe and spill half the seed before sowing it2 for scattered broadcast it is usually much too thick4 ,if this proves true1 thin out the plants rigorously4 ,this turnip is good for table and stock as long as it is solid and crisp2 but it grows pithy toward spring4 ,there are other kinds well worth a trial4 ,perhaps no vegetable is more generally appreciated than celery4 ,like asparagus1 it was once1 and is still by some1 regarded as a luxury requiring too much skill and labor for the ordinary gardener4 ,this is a mistake4 ,few vegetables in my garden repay so amply the cost of production4 ,one can raise turnips as a fall crop much easier1 it is true2 but turnips are not celery1 any more than brass is gold4 ,think of enjoying this delicious vegetable daily from ,october till ,april6 ,when cooked1 and served on toast with drawn butter sauce1 it is quite ambrosial4 ,in every garden evolved beyond the cabbage and potato phase a goodly space of the best soil should be reserved for celery1 since it can be set out from the first to the twentieth of ,july in our latitude2 it can be grown as the most valuable of the second crops1 reoccupying space made vacant by early crops4 ,i find it much easier to buy my plants1 when ready for them1 than to raise them4 ,in every town there are those who grow them in very large quantities1 and1 if properly packed1 quickly transported1 and promptly set out in the evening following their reception1 and watered abundantly1 they rarely fail4 ,there are decided advantages1 however1 in raising our own plants1 especially if midsummer should prove dry and hot1 or the plants must be long in transit4 ,when they are growing in our own garden1 they can be moved with very slight check to their growth4 ,in starting the seed there is no necessity for hot-bed or cold-frame4 ,it may be put in the ground the first week of ,april1 and the best plants are thus secured4 ,much is gained by preparing a warm but not dry plot of ground in autumn1 making it very rich with short1 half-decayed stable-manure4 ,this preparation should be begun as soon as possible after the soaking ,september rains4 ,having thoroughly incorporated and mixed evenly in the soil an abundance of the manure described1 leave the ground untouched for three weeks4 ,the warm fertilizer will cause great numbers of weed-seeds to germinate4 ,when these thrifty pests are a few inches high1 dig them under and bring up the bottom soil4 ,the warmth and light will immediately start a new and vigorous growth of weeds1 which in turn should be dug under4 ,if the celery seed bed be made early enough1 this process can be repeated several times before winter--the oftener the better2 for by it the great majority of weed-seeds will be made to germinate1 and thus are destroyed4 ,the ground also becomes exceedingly rich1 mellow1 and fine--an essential condition for celery seed1 which is very small1 and germinates slowly4 ,this thorough preparation does not involve much labor1 for the seed-bed is small1 and nothing more is required in spring but to rake the ground smooth and fine as soon as the frost is out4 ,the soil has already been made mellow1 and certainly nothing is gained by turning up the cold earth in the bottom of the bed4 ,sow the seed at once on the sunwarmed surface4 ,the rows should be nine inches apart1 and about twelve seeds sown to every inch of row4 ,the drills should be scarcely an eighth of an inch deep4 ,indeed1 a firm patting with the back of a spade would give covering enough4 ,since celery germinates so slowly1 it is well to drop a lettuce-seed every few inches1 to indicate clearly just where the rows are4 ,then the ground between the rows can be hoed lightly as soon as the weeds start1 also after heavy rains1 so as to admit the vivifying sun-rays and air4 ,of course when the celery plants are clearly outlined1 the lettuce should be pulled out4 ,if the bed is made in spring1 perform the work as early as possible1 making the bed very rich1 mellow1 and fine4 ,coarse manures1 cold1 poor1 lumpy soil1 leave scarcely a ghost of a chance for success4 ,the plants should be thinned to two inches from one another1 and when five inches high1 shear them back to three inches4 ,when they have made another good growth1 shear them back again4 ,the plants are thus made stocky4 ,in our latitude ,i try to set out celery1 whether raised or bought1 between the twenty-fifth of ,june and the fifteenth of ,july4 ,this latitude enables us to avoid a spell of hot1 dry weather4 ,there are two distinct classes of celery--the tall-growing sorts1 and the dwarf varieties4 ,a few years ago the former class was grown generally2 trenches were dug1 and their bottoms well enriched to receive the plants4 ,now the dwarf kinds are proving their superiority1 by yielding a larger amount of crisp1 tender heart than is found between long coarse stalks of the tall sorts4 ,dwarf celery requires less labor also1 for it can be set on the surface and much closer together1 the rows three feet apart1 and the plants six inches in the row4 ,dig all the ground thoroughly1 then1 beginning on one side of the plot1 stretch a line along it1 and fork under a foot-wide strip of three or four inches of compost1 not raw manure4 ,by this course the soil where the row is to be is made very rich and mellow4 ,set out the plants at once while the ground is fresh and moist4 ,if the row is ten feet long1 you will want twenty plants2 if fifteen1 thirty plants2 or two plants to every foot of row4 ,having set out one row1 move the line forward three feet1 and prepare and set out another row in precisely the same manner4 ,continue this process until the plot selected is occupied4 ,if the plants have been grown in your own garden1 much is gained by ,,soaking the ground round them in the evening1 and removing them to the rows in the cool of the morning4 ,this abundant moisture will cause the soil to cling to the roots if handled gently1 and the plants will scarcely know that they have been moved4 ,when setting ,i usually trim off the greater part of the foliage4 ,when all the leaves are left1 the roots1 not established1 cannot keep pace with the evaporation4 ,always keep the roots moist and unshrivelled1 and the heart intact1 and the plants are safe4 ,if no rain follows setting immediately1 water the plants thoroughly--don't be satisfied with a mere sprinkling of the surface--and shade from the hot sun until the plants start to grow4 ,one of the chief requisites in putting out a celery plant1 and indeed almost any plant1 is to press the soil ,,firmly ,,round1 ,,against1 ,,and ,,over ,,the ,,roots4 ,this excludes the air1 and the new rootlets form rapidly4 ,neither bury the heart nor leave any part of the root exposed4 ,do not be discouraged at the rather slow growth during the hot days of ,july and early ,august4 ,you have only to keep the ground clean and mellow by frequent hoeings until the nights grow cooler and longer1 and rains thoroughly moisten the soil4 ,about the middle of ,august the plants should be thrifty and spreading1 and now require the first operation1 which will make them crisp and white or golden for the table4 ,gather up the stalks and foliage of each plant closely in the left hand1 and with the right draw up the earth round it4 ,let no soil tumble in on the heart to soil or cause decay4 ,press the soil firmly1 so as to keep all the leaves in an upright position4 ,then with a hoe draw up more soil1 until the banking process is begun4 ,during ,september and ,october the plants will grow rapidly1 and in order to blanch them they must be earthed up from time to time1 always keeping the stalks close and compact1 with no soil falling in on the developing part4 ,by the end of ,october the growth is practically made1 and only the deep green leaves rest on the high embankments4 ,the celery now should be fit for use1 and time for winter storing is near4 ,in our region it is not safe to leave celery unprotected after the tenth of ,november1 for although it is a very hardy plant1 it will not endure a frost which produces a strong crust of frozen soil4 ,i once lost a fine crop early in ,november4 ,the frost in one night penetrated the soil deeply1 and when it thawed out1 the celery never revived4 ,,never ,,handle ,,celery ,,when ,,it ,,is ,,frozen4 ,my method of preserving this vegetable for winter use is simply this4 ,during some mild1 clear day in early ,november ,i have a trench ten inches wide dug nearly as deep as the celery is tall4 ,this trench is dug on a warm dry slope1 so that by no possibility can water gather in it4 ,then the plants are taken up carefully and stored in the trench1 the roots on the bottom1 the plants upright as they grew1 and pressed closely together so as to occupy all the space in the excavation4 ,the foliage rises a little above the surface1 which is earthed up about four inches1 so that water will be shed on either side4 ,still enough of the leaves are left in the light to permit all the breathing necessary2 for plants breathe as truly as we do4 ,as long as the weather keeps mild1 this is all that is needed2 but there is no certainty now4 ,a hard black frost may come any night4 ,i advise that an abundance of leaves or straw be gathered near4 ,when a bleak ,november day promises a black frost at night1 scatter the leaves1 etc41 thickly over the trenched celery1 and do not take them off until the mercury rises above freezing-point4 ,if a warm spell sets in1 expose the foliage to the air again4 ,but watch your treasure vigilantly4 ,winter is near1 and soon you must have enough covering over your trench to keep out the frost--a foot or more of leaves1 straw1 or some clean litter4 ,there is nothing better than leaves1 which cost only the gathering4 ,from now till ,april1 when you want a head or more of celery1 open the trench at the lower end1 and take out the crisp white or golden heads1 and thank the kindly ,providence that planted a garden as the best place in which to put man1 and woman also4 ,,garnishing ,,and ,,pot ,,herbs ,there's fennel for you2 there's rue for you4 ,strange and involuntary is the law of association6 ,i can never see the garnishing and seasoning herbs of the garden without thinking of the mad words of distraught ,ophelia4 ,i fancy1 however1 that we are all practical enough to remember the savory soups and dishes rendered far more appetizing than they could otherwise have been by these aromatic and pungent flavors4 ,i will mention only a few of the popular sorts4 ,the seeds of fennel may be sown in ,april about three-quarters of an inch deep1 and the plants thinned to fifteen inches apart4 ,cut off the seed-stalks to increase the growth of foliage4 ,parsley1 like celery seed1 germinates slowly1 and is sometimes about a month in making its appearance4 ,the soil should therefore be made very rich and fine1 and the seed sown half an inch deep1 as early in spring as possible4 ,when the plants are three inches high1 thin them to eight inches apart4 ,sweet-basil may be sown in early ,may1 and the plants thinned to one foot apart4 ,the seeds of sweet-marjoram are very minute1 and must be covered very thinly with soil finely pulverized2 sow in ,april or ,may1 when the ground is in the best condition4 ,sage is easily raised from seeds gown an inch deep the latter part of ,april2 let the soil be warm and rich2 let the plants stand about one foot apart in the row4 ,thyme and summer-savory require about the same treatment as sage4 ,i find that some of the mountain mints growing wild are quite as aromatic and appetizing as many of these garden herbs4 ,,the ,,end