,,announcements4 ,,established #ahej4 ,,inman ,,line4 ,,united ,,states ,,and ,,royal ,,mail ,,steamers ,,city ,,of ,,paris1 #aj1ejj ,tons4 ,,city ,,of ,,new ,,york1 #aj1ejj 8 ,,city ,,of ,,berlin1 #e1dia ,tons4 ,,city ,,of ,,chicago1 #f1jjj 8 ,,city ,,of ,,chester1 #d1ggj ,tons4 ,illustration ,new ,york1 ,queenstown ,,and ,liverpool4 ,,first ,,cabin ,,passage from #fj to #fej1 ,,according ,,to ,,steamer ,,and ,,location ,,of ,,accommodations4 ,,note4--,round ,trip ,tickets issued at reduced rates1 and the return portion can1 if desired1 be used by ,,red ,,star ,,line from ,antwerp to ,new ,york or ,philadelphia4 ,,international ,,navigation ,,co41 ,general ,agents1 #f ,,bowling ,,green1 ,,new ,,york4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,simpson',s 7,,limited7 ,,divan ,,tavern1 #ajc ,,strand1 ,opposite ,exeter ,hall1--,,london4 ,illustration ,the premier ,restaurant in the ,strand1 established upwards of fifty years1 which still retains its supremacy for being the house to get the best ,english ,dinner in ,london at a moderate price4 ,there is also a magnificent ,ladies' ,dining ,room where ladies can dine in the same style and cost as gentlemen do in the room down stairs4 ,private rooms for large or small parties4 ,noted for ,soups1 ,fish1 ,entrees and ,joints4 ,saddles of ,mutton specially cooked to perfection from #ab4cj to #h4cj p4m4 ,originator of professed ,carvers to attend on each customer at separate tables4 ,matured wines and spirits4 ,the largest stock of any tavern in the kingdom4 ,e4 ,w4 ,,cathie1 ,,managing ,,director4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,london ,,north ,,western ,,railway ,,the ,,old ,,route ,,in ,,the ,,old ,,country4 ,,the ,,tourists' ,,favorite4 ,,irish ,,and ,,scotch ,,royal ,,mail ,,route4 ,,shortest ,,and ,,quickest ,,from ,,liverpool 7,lime ,street ,station7 to ,,london 7,euston ,station74 under ,,four ,,and ,a-,,half ,,hours to ,,glasgow 7,central ,station71 in ,,five ,,and ,,three-,,quarter ,,hours4 ,,queenstown to ,,london via ,dublin and ,holyhead1 in ,,sixteen ,,hours ,,and ,,ten ,,minutes4 99 99 99 99 99 ,baggage ,checked ,through from ,new ,york to ,london4 ,at ,,liverpool1 ,family ,omnibuses from ,landing ,stage1 and ,special ,trains from ,alexandra ,dock to ,lime ,street ,station and ,hotel4 ,,north ,,western ,,hotel1 ,lime ,street ,station1 ,liverpool1 the best and largest--the hotel for ,americans4 ,,special ,,trains from ,liverpool to ,london when requisite to make close connection with steamers arriving from ,america4 ,elegant ,vestibule ,drawing-,room ,cars without extra charge4 ,compartments with lavatories1 and private saloon and family carriages for parties without extra charge4 ,sleeping ,cars with ,compartments and brass ,beds1 #es4 per berth in addition to first-class fares4 ,,dining ,,cars on principal trains and 8,american ,specials40 ,luncheon ,baskets at the principal ,stations4 ,in ,,london1 ,family ,omnibuses can be obtained1 at the ,euston ,hotel 7at the ,station71 noted for its ,cellar and its ,french ,cuisine1 will be found most comfortable4 ,,the ,,london ,,and ,,north ,,western ,,railway has ,,not abolished ,second ,class ,carriages2 passengers to whom economy is an object1 but who do not wish to travel ,third ,class1 can combine comfort with economy by traveling ,second ,class by this line4 ,first and ,second ,class on all trains4 ,third ,class ,carriages on all trains except the ,irish ,mails to and from ,dublin4 ,the ,company's ,agents1 ,mr4 ,w4 ,,stirling1 at ,queenstown1 and ,mr4 ,,fred4 ,w4 ,,thompson1 at ,liverpool1 meet the ,american ,steamers on arrival1 and secure omnibuses1 seats1 saloon carriages1 rooms at hotel1 and give general information4 ,,through ,,tickets to ,london1 ,glasgow1 ,paris1 and principal stations in ,england1 ,scotland1 ,ireland1 ,wales1 and ,continent of ,europe4 ,,tickets1 ,time ,tables and information as to travel and hotels can be obtained from the ,company's ,agent1 ,mr4 ,d4 ,,battersby1 #ahd ,st4 ,james ,st41 ,montreal1 and ,mr4 ,c4 ,a4 ,,barattoni1 ,gen'l ,agent for the ,u4 ,s4 and ,canada1 #heb ,broadway1 near ,union ,square1 ,new ,york4 99 99 99 99 99 ,g4 ,p4 ,,neele1 ,superintendent of the ,line4 ,london1 ,euston ,station4 ,e4 ,,michel1 ,foreign ,traffic ,superintendent4 ,g4 ,,findlay1 ,gen'l ,manager4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,hotel ,,windsor1 ,,victoria ,,street1 ,westminster1 ,,london1 ,s4,w4 ,illustration3 ,hotel ,windsor ,,victoria ,,street1 ,,westminster1 ,s4,w4 ,j4 ,r4 ,cleave ,co4 ,proprietors4 ,convenient and central location2 ,european or ,american system2 the only hotel in ,london with ,turkish and other baths2 elevators2 electrically lighted throughout1 day and night4 ,j4 ,r4 ,,cleave ,,co41 ,,proprietors4 ,illustration3 ,morris ,phillips ,,abroad ,,and ,,at ,,home ,,practical ,,hints ,,for ,,tourists ,,by ,,morris ,,phillips ,,editor ,,of ,,the ,,home ,,journal ,,new ,,york ,,new ,,york ,,brentano',s ,,paris ,,washington ,,chicago ,,london ,,copyright #ahia1 ,,by ,,morris ,,phillips ,,the ,,art ,,press1 ,,dempsey ,,carroll1 #cf ,,east #ad,,th ,,street1 ,,new ,,york4 ,,to ,,the ,,memory ,,of ,,george ,w4 ,,hows1 ,,my ,,faithful ,,fellow-,,worker ,,and ,,dear ,,friend ,,of ,,many ,,years1 ,,this ,,volume ,,of ,,sketches ,,is ,,affectionately ,,inscribed4 8,travel is the great source of true wisdom40 --,,beaconsfield4 ,,contents4 ,,page ,preface1 by the ,hon4 ,a4 ,,oakey ,,hall1 #e ,,great ,,britain4 ,london on ,wheels1 #i ,london ,hotels1 #bd ,a ,few ,boarding ,houses1 #dg ,where to ,lunch in ,london1 and ,where ,not to ,lunch1 #di ,railway ,travelling in ,england1 #ei ,an ,hour with ,spurgeon1 #fg ,the ,crypt of ,st4 ,paul's1 #ga ,the ,queen's ,mews1 #gd ,a ,question of ,hats1 #gg ,london ,oddities1 #gi ,poverty and ,charity in ,england1 #he ,where is ,charing ,cross8 #hh ,margate1 #hi ,two ,brighton ,hotels1 #ig ,a ,visit to ,bleak ,house1 #ajj ,takin' ,notes in ,edinboro' ,town1 #aje ,the ,burns ,monument1 #aab ,rt4 ,rev4 the ,moderator1 ,james ,mac,gregor1 ,d4,d41 #aaf ,crossing the ,channel1 #abc ,,paris4 ,paris ,hotels1 #abd ,pensions of the ,first ,class1 #acd ,the ,restaurants of ,paris1 #acg ,the ,anglo-,american ,banking ,co41 #adf ,au ,bon ,march1 #adg ,,the ,,united ,,states4 ,,georgia-- ,the ,de ,soto1 ,savannah1 #adi ,thomasville1 #aee ,a ,new ,southern ,resort1 #afe ,,florida-- ,a ,cuban ,city 7,key ,west71 #aga ,st4 ,augustine1 #ahj ,about ,tampa1 #ahe ,,california-- ,monterey1 #aij ,san ,diego and ,coronado1 #aii ,santa ,cruz1 #bac ,redondo ,beach1 #bba ,pasadena1 #bbe ,los ,angeles1 #bca ,the ,california ,hotel1 ,san ,francisco1 #bce ,salt ,lake ,city1 #bci ,the ,auditorium ,hotel1 ,chicago1 #bdc ,max ,o',rell on ,american ,hotels1 #bdi ,,preface4 ,a continuous residence in ,london of eight years has satisfied me that precisely such a book1 so far as it relates to that city1 which my friend and once junior legal associate now presents is popularly needed4 ,that in such respect it will be vitally interesting1 even to readers who have never been tourists thither1 8goes without saying40 ,moreover1 there are in these pages views1 comments and sights of the 8abroad0 and 8at home0 additionally valuable2 therefore ,i gladly accept his invitation to prepare a short preface to this volume of an ,american ,m4 ,p4 in the ,parliament of ,letters4 ,he first broached his idea of papers about ,london at a capital luncheon1 when meeting together there we discussed with palates1 forks and wine glasses a tempting menu during the summer of #ahij1 as guests of ,host ,vogel1 of the new ,albermarle ,hotel in ,piccadilly1 at the top of the historic ,st4 ,james's street4 ,we then and there drank success to the ,m4 ,p4 idea1 and ,i doubt not1 that every reader of this volume will be disposed to heartily duplicate that toast at his first dinner which shall follow its perusal4 ,when a tourist first arrives in ,london1 beneath the inviting shadow of the ,northwestern ,railway station hotel1 that is flanked by two smaller inns and its centre pierced by several taverns1 or direct from ,southampton at the ,waterloo station1 within rifle shot of which a score of hotels invite his luggage and his wearied frame1 that tourist's earliest question will be1 which hospitable caravanserai shall ,i patronize8 ,his second question will concern his vehicular desires for transportation by cab1 'bus or railway4 ,other queries will suggest themselves regarding the 8,how10 the 8,where10 the 8,which0 and the 8,why0 of his new ,london surroundings4 ,with this volume on shipboard en route3 or in railway carriage in transitu1 the tourist will already possess answers in his mind to those queries or similar ones respecting ,edinburgh or ,glasgow2 and will not be at the mercy of chance or of confusing porters1 or of contestant 8cabbies10 or of the shady sharpers who throng railway platforms4 ,once well housed in any of the places herein mentioned1 and once understanding1 by the aid of the ensuing pages1 how to get about in the vast metropolis--wherein one may ride sixteen miles from extreme north to a suburban south1 and fourteen miles from west to east without quitting paved and lighted streets1 or the continuity of habitations--a traveler's eyes and ears will be all the ,mentors he will require4 ,of so-called guide books 7of which class this is not71 there are in ,london and elsewhere abroad confusing scores1 but the average tourist ought to shun guide-books as he would a ,bradshaw1 unless he loves charades1 puzzles and conundrums4 ,every mother knows that when her infant obtains his footing1 the child will walk confidently4 ,this volume serves to give the person who arrives in ,london or ,edinburgh and kindred cities an instant footing4 ,in the parlance of the race course1 it is the 8starter40 ,on arrival1 the first thing to do is to demand and learn the points of compass2 because all enquiries about the 8,where0 in ,london hinge on those4 ,the papers by ,m4 ,p4 about cabs and omnibuses will be found as valuable as they are piquant4 ,he tells of certain trips 7and tips7 on top of a 'bus2 he vividly describes how the best way for exploring ,london is to ride in its every direction on the tops of omnibuses--devoting days to the task1 or rather pleasure--and when1 as street after street is passed1 reading their names1 which are always sign-affixed to the turn--a convenience even for residents which1 in late years1 is strangely unknown in ,new ,york ,city4 ,thereby locality and prominent buildings and often-referred-to neighborhoods become fixed in an observer's mind for future uses of memory4 ,i learned to know ,london 8like a book0--as common phrase goes3 and1 ,i therefore fully appreciate how much this book will serve to teach new tourists how to begin to learn ,london2 how much it will revive pleasant memories in former tourists2 how greatly it will instruct intending tourists2 how pleasantly it will amuse those who may not expect to practically patronize the hotels2 how well it will instruct as to ,london's vehicles and the wonders of the ,english city1 which is practically seventeen centuries older than ,new ,york4 ,but there are other sides and hues to this prismatic volume4 ,not only is it inviting to ,americans who wish to know about the 8across-the-ocean-ferry10 but it will be attractive to the countrymen of the ,m4 ,p4 who may travel or who would like to travel ,westward1 8where the star of ,empire takes its way40 ,and also to the foreign tourist who may for only one week reside1 in transitu to the ,states1 upon the floating greyhoundish hotels which we call steamships4 ,marvelous as ,london is to the ,american tourist1 the wonders1 the hotels1 the coasts1 and the traveling--especially toward the ,pacific ocean--are equally marvelous to ,english ,m4 ,p4's and foreign ladies and gentlemen of fortune or leisure who seek transcontinental scenes and comforts4 ,merely 8turning the leaves10 a phrase happily used as a heading for book notices by the author of 8,kissing the ,rod0 in his ,world newspaper of ,london1 will at once show any buyer of this volume what ,i have implied4 ,a4 ,,oakey ,,hall4 ,,lotos ,,club1 ,january #ba1 #ahib4 ,,london ,,on ,,wheels4 ,,above ,,ground1 ,,on ,,the ,,ground1 ,,and ,,under ,,ground4 ,,the ,,under-,,ground ,,lines4 ,how the five millions of people in ,london 8get about0 to their daily avocations and homes is a mystery to those who have not made the subject a study4 ,so ,i have gathered some information which will throw a little light on it4 ,let me start out with the statement that besides the ten large terminal stations1 like the ,euston ,square and the ,midland1 both in ,euston ,road1 there are four hundred and thirty railway stations within the metropolis1 and the under-ground lines alone carry annually one hundred and twenty-five millions of passengers4 ,the underground roads have been in existence for more than a quarter of a century1 and are found to answer the purpose admirably of relieving the over-ground traffic4 ,they are convenient1 cheap and comparatively quick2 but decidedly unpleasant1 if not positively unhealthy4 ,they now form a network of rails under the surface1 and they have been a success from the first4 ,they are a great engineering triumph1 and may be said to have marked a new epoch in the history of ,london4 ,the act permitting the tunneling was passed in #ahec4 ,mr4 ,john ,fowler conducted the herculean labor1 and underneath the streets of the busiest of cities1 down where the soil was honeycombed with other works--gas pipes1 water mains1 drains and sewers--a railway line1 costing upwards of one hundred and fifty thousand pounds per mile1 was constructed almost without the knowledge of those above4 ,for three years--from the spring of #ahfj to the beginning of #ahfc--two thousand men1 two hundred horses and fifty-eight engines were employed4 ,when completed another difficulty presented itself1 but was overcome by ,mr4 ,fowler1 who invented a locomotive which could be worked in the open air like an ordinary engine1 but which1 while in the tunnel1 emits neither steam nor smoke1 being so constructed as to be able to condense the one and consume the other4 ,and yet1 after a long ride in the under-ground1 you always emerge with a headache4 ,of course the cars have to be lighted artificially1 and they had not learned to use the electric light in them when ,i last was in ,london in ,october1 #ahia4 ,gas is a poor substitute in such a place4 ,you are forced to read your newspaper in a dim light1 and the gas consumes much of the oxygen which gets into the tunnel from the stations1 and from openings en route1 which are made for the purpose4 ,yet you do not get about as quickly in the underground as you would imagine4 ,to avoid obstructions1 and for mechanical reasons1 the road takes a circuitous route and you frequently must ride a long way around to go a comparatively short distance4 ,millions of ,londoners1 who go direct from home to business1 seldom get into an under-ground train4 ,there are many over-ground lines built on brick arches which go to the suburbs1 where rents are low2 for every ,englishman must have his own house1 no matter how small1 which he regards as his 8castle40 ,these trains are quick and cheap1 and you are blessed with ample light and good air--at least as good as you can get in foggy1 smoky ,london4 ,on all roads1 whether on trunk lines1 on local1 overground or underground lines1 there are first1 second and third-class cars1 or 8carriages10 as they call them4 ,even some omnibuses that ply from the trunk line stations also have compartments for different classes2 your ,englishman is very particular with whom he rides4 ,occasionally you meet with unpleasant companions in third-class carriages of local or suburban lines1 but on through trains1 say between ,liverpool and ,london1 the third-class carriages are comfortable1 and the travelers of a respectable class4 ,there is a great difference in the rates1 and on a long journey it is worth consideration4 ,first-class fare is almost double that of third-class4 ,second-class is neither one thing nor the other1 and on some lines it has been abolished4 ,it is an old saying that only princes1 ,americans and fools travel first-class4 ,i don't care under which head they place me1 so long as they place me in a first-class 8carriage40 ,that it is more comfortable is incontrovertible1 if you'll pardon such a big word4 ,i say this in the face of what ,john ,stuart ,mill said1 that the only reason he rode third-class was because there was no fourth4 ,,electric ,,lines ,,under ,,ground4 ,the ,forum last summer printed a very good description from the pen of ,simon ,sterne1 of the new electric under-ground railway in ,london1 and the ,sunday ,sun last autumn had an elaborate article on the subject1 which1 with illustrations1 occupied nearly a whole page4 ,it is a quick and convenient means of locomotion1 and to accomplish it was a work of wonderful engineering skill for which the inventor1 ,mr4 ,peter ,greathead1 cannot be praised too highly2 but the riding is by no means pleasant4 ,in a lift large enough to accommodate fifty passengers1 you descend a distance of eighty feet below the surface--part of the road running beneath the bed of the river ,thames4 ,the cars are small and fairly well lighted1 but they have an unpleasant vibration1 and although the air is not noticeably impure1 there is an uncanny feeling with the knowledge that you are burrowing1 as it were1 in the bowels of the earth4 ,the road1 probably an experimental one1 is only three miles long1 extending south from 8the monument0 in the city4 ,it has not1 thus far1 proved a success pecuniarily1 the cost of construction being so great1 although no land was purchased except for the stations4 ,,hansoms ,,and ,,four-,,wheelers4 ,street cars are not needed in the city4 ,nearly all ,london streets are in as good condition for driving as our ,central ,park roads4 ,there are eight thousand hansoms1 four thousand four-wheelers1 and two thousand omnibuses1 so that you are not obliged to walk on account of the absence of cars4 ,the four-wheeled cabs1 or 8growlers10 as they term them1 are dilapidated1 uncomfortable vehicles1 which lack new springs1 and are dirty both inside and out4 ,the horses and the drivers are old and superannuated2 they have all seen better days in private carriages or hansom cabs4 ,you never take a four-wheeler if you are alone1 or if the party consists of only two persons4 ,you must engage one if you have a trunk1 but if you are going to catch a train or boat you had better allow a half hour's margin4 ,the ,london cab service is the best and cheapest in the world4 ,i say this1 notwithstanding that ,i remember hiring a cab in ,key ,west1 in the ,gulf of ,mexico1 for a dime4 ,but such cabs and such horses6 ,the rate in a hansom is sixpence per mile for one or two persons1 no fare less than one shilling 7twenty-five cents72 by the hour1 two-and-six 7sixty-two cents74 ,,how ,,they ,,drive4 ,england is the only place ,i know of where they drive to the left4 ,english drivers say that by sitting on the right and driving to the left1 they can better watch the hubs of approaching wheels1 and thus prevent collisions4 ,a cabbie's attention is given entirely to the roadway2 pedestrians must look out for themselves or be run over4 ,that is why so many of the ,london police are engaged solely in attending to street traffic4 ,yet with all their vigilance1 more accidents occur in ,london1 proportionately1 than elsewhere4 ,london drivers are polite and very civil to each other4 ,if an obstruction appears in front of a horse1 or if for any reason he is obliged suddenly to slow up1 the driver will immediately notify the driver in the rear by holding out horizontally his left arm2 and this sign is passed down from one driver to another1 until the very end of the line of blocked vehicles is reached4 ,people who have not visited ,london for several years1 will find cabs greatly improved4 ,there is a new1 patent hansom4 ,in these you are saved the trouble of opening and closing the doors2 this is done by the driver by touching a lever on the top of the vehicle4 ,the new style of cab has thick rubber tires1 which add considerably to ease and comfort in riding4 ,so little noise does the vehicle make in going over ,london's smooth-paved streets1 that these cabs are provided with bells to warn pedestrians of their approach4 ,the interior fittings include a holder for lighted cigars1 a box of matches1 a small1 bevelled mirror on either side of the cab1 and a swinging rubber bulb attached to a rubber tube with a whistle at the end4 ,you lightly press the bulb1 and in this way whistle to ,cabbie on top1 who hears the summons above the roar of the streets1 and responds by opening his trap door in the roof to receive instructions4 ,the law does not permit the drivers of these well-appointed and rather luxurious vehicles to charge more than do the drivers of the ordinary cabs2 but as the new hansoms cost the drivers more to hire1 and as they are so much superior to the old style1 you do not begrudge paying a trifle extra4 ,the drivers pay for these improved hansoms sixteen shillings 7four dollars7 per day1 except during 8the season10 when the owners exact a guinea per day1 about five dollars4 ,the speed with which the ,london cabs are driven is something alarming--alarming to a stranger4 ,in ,new ,york a cab driver has some little regard for the lives and limbs of pedestrians2 in ,paris the horses are so poor and skeleton-like1 and go so slow1 that pedestrians have no fear whatever2 but in ,london you must look out wholly for yourself2 ,cabbie will certainly not look out for you4 ,if he is engaged by the course1 he only has his destination in mind4 ,london cab horses are the best horses in the world used for such a purpose4 ,with rubber tires to the wheels1 and the wheels going over clean and perfectly smooth roadways1 there is nothing to obstruct their speed1 and the animals go like the wind4 ,they and their drivers seem to stand in fear of nothing but a policeman1 and as ,london has good laws for regulating vehicles1 and as these laws are strictly obeyed1 the mere warning look of a policeman is respected and obeyed4 ,london drivers are not so brutal nor so ill-tempered as ,new ,york drivers4 ,they do not1 as a rule1 curse or swear at each other as ours do1 who are always ready with a foul oath4 ,if a 8block0 occurs they take it good-naturedly and get out of it with the aid of the police as quickly as possible4 ,our drivers are only satisfied when they can take a mean advantage of their fellows1 get in their way and put them to inconvenience4 ,it may be ,yankee 8goaheadativeness10 or the spirit of freedom and independence which prompts this show of ill-temper1 but for my part ,i prefer the laughing1 jocular1 good-tempered ,london driver4 ,on my last visit to ,london1 where ,i stayed one month1 ,i saw a great many 8blocks10 but heard only one quarrel between drivers1 and that was not at all serious4 ,they will1 however1 chaff each other1 saying something like this3--8,oh1 come1 pull yourself together there20 or 8,i say1 country1 why don't you learn to drive before you come up to ,london80 ,the term 8up to ,london10 by the way1 is put to singular use there4 ,although ,london is in the south of ,england1 you always go 8up to ,london10 if you even go from ,carlisle1 which is in the extreme north1 on the ,scotch border4 ,,street ,,cars4 ,there are no street cars run by the trolley1 storage or any other electric system2 no cable cars1 no horse cars2 not a track is laid for a surface road in 8the city0 proper4 ,many ,americans leave ,london without ever seeing a street car of any kind1 and yet in the metropolis one thousand street cars run daily over one hundred and twenty miles of track1 but they are not permitted in crowded thoroughfares2 they are confined to the outlying districts4 ,i have only seen them in the east end1 in the district known as 8,the ,boro'0 and near the ,victoria ,station4 ,the street cars are 8double deckers10 and1 like the 'buses1 they carry more outside than inside passengers1 but the number of passengers is limited4 ,when the car has reached its limit it will take up no more passengers4 ,every passenger has the right to a seat1 and1 to use a paradoxical phrase1 every ,englishman stands up for his right to a seat4 ,,omnibuses4 ,the two thousand omnibuses keep employed eight or nine thousand horses4 ,the number of miles run annually by the omnibuses is five and a half millions1 and the number of passengers carried not less than forty-eight millions4 ,such a heavy1 slow-going1 cumbersome vehicle as the ,london omnibus could not be used on our rough-and-tumble roads4 ,it is poorly ventilated1 if you can call it ventilated1 for the windows are closed and are immovable4 ,the only means of ventilation is by the door1 in the rear1 near which everybody tries to get4 ,as fast as the choice seats near the door are vacated1 they are occupied by the less fortunate passengers1 and the last comer is always obliged to take the worst place1 which is nearest the front4 ,but in fine weather a man never gets inside while there is a vacant seat on top1 and it is no strange sight to see women occupying outside seats to escape the stifling air inside4 ,nor does wet weather deter an ,englishman from taking an open air seat4 ,most ,englishmen wear a 8mackintosh0 in threatening weather and there's a great deal of such weather in ,london4 ,to every seat on the top of a 'bus there is attached a woolen-lined leather apron to protect the knees1 and with an umbrella1 which is always part of an ,englishman's costume1 they manage to keep perfectly dry4 ,the omnibuses are so freely used for advertising purposes1 the outside is so nearly covered with attractive and gaudy signs of business houses that it is exceedingly difficult to read or discover the route or destination of the vehicle4 ,you may be looking for ,blackwall or ,putney1 but you will read 8,hyams' thirteen-shilling trousers 8or 8,day ,martin's blacking is the best40 ,the 'buses do not confine themselves to the middle of the roadway and allow passengers to pick and fight their way through a crowd of vehicles1 ,new ,york-like2 they pull up to the curb to allow passengers to enter or leave without the least possibility of danger or trouble4 ,conductors will also leave their perch1 approach the sidewalk 7,anglice1 pavement7 to consult or advise with a prospective passenger who is in doubt as to which 'bus he should take4 ,time seems of no importance3 they are not in such a rush or whirl of excitement as we are4 ,whether from the excessive competition or from some other cause ,i know not3 ,i do know that public servants in ,england are much more civil and polite than they are in this 8free0 country4 ,there are rules which control ,london omnibuses1 and these it is the duty of the police to strictly enforce4 ,a 'bus is licensed and allowed to carry only so many passengers1 and this license or limit must be posted on a conspicuous part of the vehicle4 ,the majority are 8licensed to carry twenty-six passengers2 twelve inside and fourteen outside40 ,in #ahij the ,london police force numbered thirteen thousand eight hundred and fifty-five men1 not counting the nine hundred and two officers who form a special organization in what is termed 8the city40 ,a considerable part of the time and attention of the police is devoted to governing street traffic4 ,policemen will watch and follow a 'bus for several blocks if they think it contains more passengers than the law allows4 ,when they are assured that this is the case they go to a magistrate and lay a complaint1 and then woe betide the poor driver or conductor who disregarded the law4 ,the 'buses make special stops at certain points of their route and these seem very long and prove tedious to one who is in a hurry2 but if your time is valuable you would never take a 'bus4 ,they are not allowed to stop when near or nearing these special stopping-places1 not even if a passenger expresses a desire to alight4 ,i remember once1 simply for information1 asking the driver to stop in the middle of ,trafalgar square1 just as we were passing ,nelson's monument1 on the way to the ,strand1 cityward4 8,well10 said the polite but uneducated ,jehu1 8you carn't expect me to get a four-shilling summons for a penny fare1 can you80 meaning that if he pulled up where ,i indicated he would be summoned the next day on the complaint of a vigilant 8bobby0 and be obliged to pay four shillings for accommodating me4 ,in ,american street cars or omnibuses--excepting1 as ,i remember in ,san ,jos1 ,california1 a passenger who rides only a few blocks helps to pay the fare of the man who rides the full length of the road1 for the charge to both is the same4 ,it is not so 7mis7 managed in ,england4 ,the charge there is by distance1 about one penny 7two cents7 a mile and you pay according to the distance you ride4 ,there are two or three lines of omnibuses whose only fare is a half-penny 7one cent74 ,one line runs between ,westminster bridge and ,trafalgar square4 ,they pick up no passengers between the two points4 ,they each carry only twelve passengers2 there are no outside seats4 ,there is a great deal of pilfering going on among omnibus conductors1 and drivers also1 for they divide the spoils2 and the company winks at it1 knowing that the pay of these men is too small4 ,the company is satisfied if it receives a fair average return1 but in this way it puts a premium on dishonesty4 ,there is no check against the conductors--no mechanical contrivance to record fares4 ,they are supposed to enter every fare and the exact amount they receive from each passenger on a paper slip placed in a frame1 the frame being fastened to the inside of the omnibus door1 but it is only a supposition4 ,passengers are requested to see that the amount paid is properly entered1 but the request is wholly unheeded4 ,it is1 to say the least1 a very careless way of keeping accounts1 and invites dishonesty4 ,on some lines they use tickets showing the amount each passenger pays1 but a conductor sometimes forgets to hand you a ticket4 ,an ,inspector will occasionally mount a 'bus to see that all the passengers are supplied with tickets1 and then the conductor with a treacherous memory has reason to be sorry4 ,keep out of a 8pirate 'bus40 ,the rate in these 'buses is not uniform1 and overcharges are not uncommon4 ,,on ,,the ,,top ,,of ,a ',,bus4 ,the driver is generally a jolly1 red-faced fellow and very smartly dressed1 especially on ,sunday4 ,he then always wears a 8top hat30 in winter it is of black silk1 in summer a pearl gray felt with a wide mourning band to set it off4 ,his coat is often a double-breasted drab cassimere1 and in the top buttonhole of the left lapel is a large and loud nose-gay4 ,a showy scarf and a pair of heavy1 tan-colored driving gloves complete his costume4 ,he makes quite a picture as he sits on the box1 with a leather strap across his waist which holds him securely in his seat1 and a black leather apron to protect the lower part of his body from wind and rain4 ,he carries a showy whip with a very long and loose thong1 with the end of which he can pick off a fly from the ear of his leader4 ,the 'bus driver is permitted to smoke while on duty4 ,he comforts himself with a briarwood pipe unless a generous passenger treats him to a cigar1 for he is not above accepting a small present4 ,leopold ,rothschild1 who lives on a street through which omnibuses pass1 has taken a great fancy to these men and in the autumn he presents a pair of pheasants to every omnibus driver and conductor who passes his door4 ,everybody who has visited ,london knows that the best way of seeing the city is from the top of a 'bus4 ,get a front seat1 next to the driver1 hand him a tip in the shape of a sixpence and ask him a few questions4 ,you will find that he is intelligent1 well-informed on every-day subjects1 quick-witted and a judge of human nature4 ,i had a very interesting ride last summer on the top of a 8,kilburn0 'bus4 ,these 'buses start from ,victoria station1 and run northwest to ,kilburn1 through some very beautiful thoroughfares1 in which reside many titled people and some prominent members of ,london society4 ,in ,grosvenor place1 soon after starting from the station1 the driver will point out1 for instance1 the residences of the ,dukes of ,northumberland1 ,grafton and ,portland2 that of the ,earl of ,scarborough1 at ,no4 #a ,grosvenor place2 the ,dowager ,lady de ,rothschild2 ,sir ,edward ,cecil ,guinness2 that of the late ,right ,hon4 ,william ,h4 ,smith2 also the homes of a number of members of parliament1 more or less well-known4 ,the 'bus goes a short distance through ,piccadilly and passes the residences of ,baron ,ferdinand ,rothschild1 ,lord ,rothschild1 the ,duke of ,wellington and the ,duke of ,hamilton1 in ,hamilton place4 ,then it turns into one of ,london's most aristocratic streets1 ,park ,lane 7alongside ,hyde ,park71 where reside the ,duchess of ,somerset1 the ,marquis of ,londonderry1 ,lord ,brassey1 ,alfred ,rothschild1 ,lord ,dudley1 the ,countess of ,dudley1 ,lord ,grosvenor1 cousin to the ,duke of ,westminster1 and the ,duke of ,westminster himself4 ,the ,duke's wealth is untold1 and he owns miles of valuable land in this and the adjacent districts4 ,a 'bus marked 8,hammersmith0 will take you westward1 through ,piccadilly1 past the clubs1 the parks1 some stylish shops1 and fashionable residences4 ,you will see ,st4 ,james's ,palace and historic ,addison ,road1 en route1 and you can ride across ,hammersmith ,bridge4 ,you can also go to ,kew ,gardens and to the famous 8,star and ,garter10 at ,richmond1 by 'bus4 ,here's another very interesting ride4 ,if you are at ,oxford ,circus you will see omnibuses with the horses' heads turned eastward1 and you will hear the ,cockney conductor calling out 8,benk1 benk1 ,charing ,cross1 benk40 ,take a ride with him4 ,the vehicle goes through ,regent street1 ,trafalgar ,square1 the ,strand1 ,fleet street1 then down ,cheapside 7which is anything but cheap71 and ,cornhill1 where there is neither corn nor hill4 ,at the end of ,cornhill you see the most crowded and bustling crush of vehicles you ever saw in your life4 ,to the right is the ,mansion ,house 7corresponding with our ,city ,hall72 a little further on 8,the ,monument10 with its gold torch at top1 looms up2 immediately in front is ,the ,royal ,exchange1 with its ,peabody statue1 while to the left stands the demure ,bank of ,england1 as solid from a financial point of view as it is architecturally4 ,on this route you pass and have in view ,the ,national ,gallery1 ,landseer's lions1 several famous hotels and theatres1 the ,law ,courts1 ,temple ,bar1 the principal newspaper establishments1 and ,st4 ,paul's ,church4 ,the same 'bus1 if you wish to pursue your journey eastward1 will take you through ,leadenhall street and into the very heart of ,whitechapel--even to ,blackwall and the docks1 if your taste lies in that direction4 ,there is no better way of seeing ,london than from the top of a 'bus if you get a seat next to an old and wide-awake driver1 and the cost is but a few pennies4 ,there are one hundred and forty different routes in the whole city to choose from4 ,,the ,,city ,,traffic4 ,one of the busiest thoroughfares is that narrow street called 8the ,strand10 where it is crossed by ,wellington street4 ,you drive north1 through ,wellington street1 past the ,lyceum ,theatre to get to ,holborn1 ,covent ,garden ,market and elsewhere2 southward there is great traffic over ,waterloo ,bridge1 leading to the ,surrey side of ,london1 while from the east and west come continuous streams of omnibuses1 cabs1 carriages and heavy wagons and freight trucks4 ,policemen stand in the middle of the roadway and regulate this enormous traffic by merely raising a white-cotton-gloved hand4 ,they are calm and immovable1 and seem to pay not the slightest heed to their own safety amid the crowded crush of vehicles about them4 ,all come to a standstill before the stiff and fearless 8bobby40 ,when by waving his hand he directs that a certain stream of vehicles may proceed this way or that1 it proceeds1 but not until he gives permission4 ,london ,bridge is said to be the greatest thoroughfare in the world4 ,more vehicles and foot passengers cross it than pass through any other street1 and special provision is made for vehicular traffic4 ,in ,new ,york1 for instance1 a heavily laden four-horse truck or wagon may block ,broadway for a great distance4 ,if you are behind it in a phaeton or light carriage1 you must wait till the driver in front of you1 who may be sullen and obstinate1 leisurely moves out of the way4 ,no matter in how much haste you are--you may be trying to catch a train or an ocean steamer--you must wait4 ,not so in ,london's most crowded streets4 ,on ,london ,bridge1 for instance1 slow-going and heavily-laden vehicles must keep to the side near the curb and pavement1 while carriages1 cabs and light vehicles are allowed the middle of the roadway for quick movement4 ,that part of the roadway directly next to the curb has a smooth surface1 and there is also a smooth surface about a foot wide for the outer wheel of heavy wagons--this only on ,london ,bridge and in a few other very busy thoroughfares4 ,it is a capital plan1 and gives satisfaction to all concerned4 ,,advice ,,from ,,charles ,,dickens4 ,but in such a vast city1 with such enormous traffic1 nothing can prevent great loss of life and accidents innumerable from crossing the streets4 ,the point mentioned above is only one of the busy parts of one street--the ,strand--from another point1 down by the ,law ,courts and ,temple ,bar1 it is said that two hundred more or less mangled bodies are sent to the ,charing ,cross ,hospital every year4 ,the present ,charles ,dickens1 in his 8,dictionary of ,london10 thinks it worth while to suggest that the only way to go from curb to curb is to make up your mind what course you will take1 and then stick to it4 ,london cabbies will thus divine your intentions4 ,to change your mind while crossing is to confuse the cabmen1 and cause you 7so ,dickens suggests7 to make your return journey to ,america in the form of freight4 ,as all vehicles in ,london are driven to the left1 keep to the left curb4 ,i found this suggestion of ,oakey ,hall's valuable3 8,as you leave a curb1 look to the right2 as you approach a curb1 look to the left40 ,,london ,,hotels4 ,until the year #ahhj there was only one hotel in ,london that came up to the expectations of ,american travelers1 which compared in size and appointments with ,american hotels of the first-class4 ,this was the ,langham ,hotel in ,portland place4 ,when the ,langham was built1 nearly thirty years ago1 and for several subsequent years1 as the writer can attest1 for he was a guest there in #ahga1 and has been a frequent visitor there since1 the ,langham was large enough to accommodate all ,american tourists in ,london4 ,this1 however1 has been greatly changed4 ,americans at that time merely passed through ,london2 they took it as a sort of stepping-stone en route for ,paris4 ,in the days of the ,second ,empire1 when ,louis ,napoleon wielded the sceptre1 and ,eugenie set the fashions for the civilized world1 ,americans flocked to ,paris like so many sheep4 ,then it was said3 8,see ,paris and die40 ,with the downfall of the empire and its accompanying glories our compatriots found ,paris less attractive1 and they discovered what everybody knows--that ,london is1 in many respects1 the most interesting city in the world4 ,a presentation to ,her ,majesty1 and hob-nobbing with the ,prince of ,wales1 are the things now most desired1 and to be in the very height of fashion1 one must hire a ,london house for 8the season10--,may1 ,june and ,july4 ,,the ,,langham ,,hotel4 ,but this is a digression4 ,the ground1 the structure and the furnishing of the ,langham ,hotel1 which was formally opened by the ,prince of ,wales in ,june1 #ahfe1 cost a million and a half dollars1 and it was a wonder and a revelation to the ,english people4 ,its noble granite front of two hundred and twelve feet1 its dining hall1 forty-seven by one hundred and twenty feet2 its music room1 drawing-room1 and its public rooms generally1 were on such a grand scale that ,londoners opened wide their eyes in astonishment and admiration4 ,the ,langham1 by liberal outlay of money and constant improvement1 keeps up with the times1 and notwithstanding that many splendid establishments have been erected within the last decade1 it retains its place in the very front rank4 ,people who have not seen the interior of the ,langham ,hotel1 ,london1 since #ahij1 will notice some changes and marked improvements4 ,heretofore the dining-room was only entered by a comparatively dark and roundabout way1 near the drawing-room2 now it is approached from 8the office0 direct1 through a wide and handsome 8vestibule10 which is flooded with light and richly furnished1 making an appropriate entrance to the beautiful dining-room4 ,the drawing-room1 which1 for its size1 its pleasing shape and rich furniture is yet one of the most attractive salons in ,england1 has also been greatly improved4 ,colonel ,sanderson1 its first manager1 an ,american1 died many years ago4 ,he was brother to ,harry ,sanderson1 famous in his day in ,new ,york as a pianist4 ,but ,english capitalists and business men are not given to making changes1 and so we find that ,mr4 ,walter ,gosden1 who was in the service of the ,langham under ,mr4 ,sanderson's management1 has been for many years and is now the manager of the hotel4 ,you can get a nice room with beautiful outlook1 and a very good breakfast here for less than two dollars a day4 ,this estimate includes the charge for attendance4 ,address1 ,walter ,gosden1 ,portland place1 ,regent street1 ,w4 ,,the ,,grand4 ,during the past twelve years1 however1 many superb buildings for hotel purposes have been erected in the ,english metropolis4 ,among the largest and most popular are the three grouped together1 as it were1 in one short street1 ,northumberland avenue1 which1 only two blocks long1 extends in a southerly direction from ,trafalgar square to the banks of the ,thames4 ,these are the ,grand1 the ,mtropole and the ,victoria1 to name them in the order they were erected4 ,so popular has this cluster of hotels become1 and so many well-to-do ,americans do they attract1 that property in the neighborhood has largely increased in value1 and the tradespeople blame the 8,yankees0 for the increased rents they have to pay1 never speaking of the increased patronage which they enjoy from these same 8,yankees40 ,the features of the ,grand ,hotel1 the longest established of these three1 are well-known1 but former patrons will scarcely recognize the reception-room1 which1 with its new1 solid-looking furniture and rich1 dark decorations1 is now one of the most attractive apartments of its kind to be seen1 even in these days of the upholsterer and decorator4 ,while artistic and costly1 it has an air of utility and comfort which you will not find very often repeated4 ,the drawing-room of the ,grand was to be 8done up0 during last winter1 so the secretary informed me1 and 8it will be just as handsome as the reception-room40 ,cable1 ,granotel1 ,london4 ,h,,tel ,m,,tropole4 ,to ,american visitors in ,london the ,mtropole is one of the most attractive of the more recently built hotels4 ,situated as it is1 and being replete with all the latest conveniences and features1 no hotel in the metropolis approaches nearer to the ideal which was first evolved in the ,united ,states of the model modern caravansary4 ,to dwell upon the subject of the general characteristics of the ,htel ,mtropole would be superfluous2 they and it are too well known to ,americans who have visited ,london1 but a short description of the celebrated 8grand salon0 of the ,mtropole1 as it has lately been refitted and decorated 7,sept4 #ahia71 will be read with interest4 ,the scheme of adornment is most tasteful1 and perfectly and harmoniously carried out in all details4 ,two shades of maroon in contrast with white and gold are the leading features of the ensemble1 and the general effect of this combination is extremely felicitous and pleasing4 ,the wall space between the lofty windows and the immense mirrors is covered with stamped ,utrecht velvet of a soft1 natural tint and richness of design4 ,the pillars are painted in maroon1 with gilt capitals1 an arrangement of color which is at once novel and agreeable to the eye4 ,the patterns on the flutings of the beams which support the roof are picked out in gold on a white ground4 ,the roof panels are covered with dull gold of a peculiarly restful tint1 and the design introduced in various portions of the general decoration have an unusually sthetic character4 ,the electric lights1 of which there are a considerable number1 are surrounded by cut crystal pendants and greatly enhance the brilliancy of the illumination4 ,in the center of the room is a palm1 the leaves of which shadow a space thirty feet in circumference4 ,it towers toward the ceiling1 and for grace and beauty is not easily equalled in ,florida1 nor greatly excelled even in ,california4 ,tree palms are placed at intervals throughout the spacious room1 producing a pleasing effect of verdure1 and each of the separate tables is adorned with flowers2 while the rich candelabra1 with handsome shades placed upon each table1 afford the subdued light which is preferable to the cruder glare of the former style of lighting4 ,the general coup d'il in the grand salon is singularly graceful and attractive4 ,a large number of public and private banquets take place at the ,htel ,mtropole1 this being one of the recognized resorts for ceremonies of that description4 ,at the ,mtropole the 8show0 apartments are known as the ,eugenie and ,marie ,antoinette suites1 and they have afforded many a descriptive writer material for an article4 ,probably no hotel sleeping chambers equal these for rich and costly decoration--for the laces1 the frescoes and luxurious furniture4 ,the reader will know that ample means were at command when told that in the selection of site1 in constructing and furnishing the ,mtropole1 half a million sterling 7two and a half million dollars7 were expended4 ,and such a success has the ,mtropole proved that the company were encouraged to invest further in hotel property with the result that they now own and control three hotels of the first class in ,london1 also five other hotels in different parts of ,europe4 ,among these are the ,mtropole at ,monte ,carlo1 the ,mtropole at ,cannes1 and the ,mtropole at ,brighton1 the last named being the latest hotel erected by this company1 and one which will compare in many respects with the most renowned hotels of the world4 ,rooms at the ,london ,mtropole from five shillings to one pound per day2 breakfast from two-and-six-pence to four shillings2 table d'hte dinner1 six shillings--one dollar and a half4 ,manager1 ,wm4 ,t4 ,hollands4 ,,hotel ,,victoria4 ,the latest constructed of these three hotels is the ,hotel ,victoria4 ,printed words cannot easily convey to the mind an adequate idea of the magnificence of this structure4 ,the public rooms of the ,victoria are palatial in their proportions and appointments1 the grand staircase is a marvel of beauty1 and the sleeping rooms contain all the conveniences and contrivances found in modern hotels of the highest class4 ,besides the comforts characteristic of an ,english house1 and the luxurious cuisine of a continental hotel1 the attention and the discipline which rule at the ,victoria remind one of an ,american hotel4 ,you need have no fear at the ,victoria that the cards of friends calling will not be promptly sent to you3 nor is there any delay or trouble at this house1 as there is at certain hotels in the ,strand1 about the delivery of telegrams1 letters and packages4 ,each guest is known to the officials and servants1 not by name1 but by number--the number of the room he occupies4 ,letters are placed in your box up to a certain hour of the evening1 after that hour they are sent to your room4 ,there is a package-room1 also a 8package clerk10 who receives all bundles1 signs therefor1 and enters the same in a book1 so that it may be known immediately if a package has been received for a guest4 ,if a telegram or a card from a caller is received and the key to your room is not in its box1 thus indicating that you are in your room1 or at least in the house1 a servant is immediately dispatched to your room1 while a little page in livery is started off through all the halls and public rooms calling out in a loud voice your room number in this fashion1 8,number #fcj1 please40 ,if you are anywhere under the roof you are sure to be found by this excellent method4 ,a feature of the ,hotel ,victoria is a corps of valets4 ,there are seven floors in the building1 each accommodating about sixty or seventy guests1 and to each floor a valet is assigned who performs all the ordinary duties of such a servant4 ,shoes are not carried down below to be mixed and confused with hundreds of others1 but are polished by the valet on your floor4 ,the valet also enters your room during your absence1 removes all the clothes he finds hanging or lying about1 brushes and folds the same and puts them back neatly4 ,it is a convenience1 returning to your hotel late in the evening and in haste to dress for dinner or the theatre1 to find your evening suit nicely folded and brushed1 ready to put on4 ,these and other provisions for the comfort of guests indicate the general care in management and the close attention to detail which obtain at the ,victoria1 and which have given it its wide reputation4 ,the appointments include a billiard room with five full-sized tables4 ,good rooms on fifth floor1 a dollar and a half a day4 ,this includes attendance and lights4 ,breakfast from two shillings to three-and-six2 table d'hte luncheon about the same2 table d'hte dinner1 one dollar and a quarter4 ,manager1 ,henry ,logan4 ,,long',s ,,hotel4 ,there is another trio of ,london hotels that may be grouped together1 on account of their proximity--the ,hotel ,albemarle 7,albemarle street and ,piccadilly71 ,long's hotel 7,bond street71 and the ,hotel ,bristol 7,burlington ,gardens1 between ,bond and ,regent streets74 ,the last two are but a few yards apart4 ,they are all entirely new buildings1 and new also in name and history1 except ,long's1 which was erected on the ground where the first ,long's stood for two hundred years4 ,long's1 though not of great capacity1 has a larger number of richly furnished bedrooms than the ,ponce de ,leon1 in ,st4 ,augustine1 ,fla4 ,for the beauty of the exterior and the magnificent surroundings of the ,ponce de ,leon1 as well as for the ,oriental splendor of its public rooms1 no words of praise can be too lavish4 ,but the two hotels1 8the ,ponce0 and ,long's1 cannot be compared2 their characteristics are so different4 ,one is like a royal palace in the country1 the other resembles a gentleman's quiet1 city home4 ,long's differs from every other hotel ,i have seen in this respect1 that all of its bedrooms have rich hangings1 and the walls of each are decorated with works of art4 ,the apartments are not cold and bare1 as are the bedrooms of most hotels2 they suggest home-like comforts1 and are furnished in the best taste4 ,the walls of the dining-room at ,long's are hung with ,gobelin tapestry1 and on the whole it may be called a beautifully appointed hotel4 ,h4 ,j4 ,herbert1 manager4 ,,the ,,bristol4 ,they have some very attractive hotels in ,boston2 the ,brunswick1 for example1 and everybody has heard of the beautiful ,spanish hotels in ,st4 ,augustine1 and the great ,auditorium in ,chicago4 ,i have lived at all these houses1 also at the ,hotel del ,coronado1 ,coronado ,beach1 and at ,california's other famous house1 the ,hotel del ,monte1 at ,monterey1 with its #abf acres for a garden4 ,there are few or none that are more gorgeous than these1 and they always come to one's memory when discussing the best hotels1 but certainly ,new ,york ,city cannot boast of a hotel interior that equals in tasteful decorations those of the ,bristol in ,london4 ,it is a gem in its way4 ,a veritable bijou of a room is the reception room of the ,bristol4 ,it is minus the onyx tables and costly paintings you see at the ,ponce de ,leon in ,st4 ,augustine1 and the 8gold0 chairs that dazzle your eyes in so many ,american hotels3 everything in this room at the ,bristol1 from the soft carpet on the floor to the decoration on the ceiling1 is rich1 but also quiet in tone--soothing and harmonious4 ,the ,royal ,academy1 the ,burlington ,arcade 7a fashionable shopping street7 and ,piccadilly are all within a few hundred feet of the ,bristol4 ,the ,bristol is patronized by such well-known ,new ,yorkers as the ,vanderbilts1 the ,twomblys and the owner of the ,new ,york ,world4 ,telegraph or write to the ,bristol ,hotel1 ,burlington ,gardens1 ,london1 ,w4 ,,the ,,hotel ,,albemarle4 ,although rebuilt and opened as recently as the beginning of #ahij1 the ,hotel ,albemarle has already gained a position and reputation as one of the most select and fashionable hotels in ,london4 ,its situation1 to begin with1 has undoubtedly had much to do with its immediate success4 ,it conspicuously fronts the north end of the celebrated thoroughfare1 ,st4 ,james's street1 in the centre of the court quarter of ,london1 and stands at the corner of ,albemarle street and ,piccadilly4 ,no better location for a hotel destined to be at once aristocratic and accessible to the traveling public could have been selected4 ,towering high above the surrounding buildings1 the ,albemarle1 with its double faade1 seventy-five feet on ,piccadilly and seventy-five feet on the street from which it takes its name1 cannot fail to attract observation4 ,it is built of terra cotta in the ,francis ,i4 style of architecture1 and the general effect is both graceful and imposing4 ,the main entrance is in ,albemarle street4 ,the interior of the hotel is furnished and decorated in a variety of styles of the ,renaissance period4 ,the furniture and decoration of the dining-room1 ladies' drawing-room on the ground floor1 the fitting and decoration of the hall and staircase1 are treated in the style of ,francis ,i4 ,the style of ,henri ,,ii4 has been adopted for the first and second floors2 the third floor is in the style of ,louis ,,xv41 and the fourth in that of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,special mention must be made of the 8,rubens ,room10 furnished and decorated effectively in the ,louis ,,xv4 style4 ,this apartment derives its name from a fine painting which adorns the ceiling1 and which is believed to be from the brush1 either of ,rubens himself or of one of his pupils4 ,the furnishing1 fitting and decorating of the ,hotel ,albemarle were effected by the well-known ,london firm of ,shoolbred1 after designs from a famous ,french artist4 ,the building being of such recent erection1 it is scarcely necessary to state that none of the modern improvements has been neglected in its construction4 ,the most careful attention has been paid to sanitary arrangements1 and the hotel is lighted throughout by electricity4 ,in the two years which have elapsed since it was opened1 it has quickly become renowned for the excellence of its cuisine and service4 ,its wine cellar is one of the choicest in ,london4 ,royalty1 the nobility1 and visitors of the highest fashion patronize the ,hotel ,albemarle4 ,during the ,london season1 in particular1 its rooms are crowded with distinguished guests4 ,to ,americans1 especially1 it should prove a most attractive resort1 if only on account of the brilliant and aristocratic neighborhood in which it is situated4 ,st4 ,james's ,park1 ,st4 ,james's ,palace and ,marlborough ,house are near at hand4 ,hyde ,park1 with its 8,drive0 and 8,row10 is within five minutes' walk4 ,the ,art ,galleries1 the theatres1 the ,opera ,house1 the ,houses of ,parliament1 the clubs1 ,westminster ,abbey1 and several of the principal museums are within the compass of a shilling cab fare4 ,the best and most fashionable shops in ,london are situated in the near vicinity1 in ,piccadilly and in ,bond and ,regent streets1 while ,oxford street1 where many of the cheaper shops are to be found1 is but a short distance off--in short1 it may be said that the ,hotel ,albemarle stands almost in the centre of the fashionable life and business of ,london4 ,interest attaches to ,albemarle street itself as an historical thoroughfare4 ,during the last century it enjoyed peculiar reputation as a place of residence at the west end of the metropolis1 and not a little of this old-time prestige clings to it still4 ,the ,prince of ,wales1 afterwards ,george the ,second1 once lived in ,albemarle street1 and when ,louis the ,eighteenth of ,france was in ,england in #ahad he made it his place of stay1 and held1 at the now defunct 8,grillon's ,hotel10 his receptions of the leaders of the ,english nobility4 ,the famous publishing house1 ,murray's1 through whose doors have passed such celebrities in the world of letters as ,byron1 ,scott1 ,southey1 ,crabbe1 ,hallam1 ,tom ,moore1 ,gifford1 ,lockhart1 ,washington ,irving and many others1 is situated immediately opposite the entrance to the ,hotel4 ,you would never imagine that it was a publishing house or business house of any kind4 ,it looks like an ordinary private dwelling1 and the only sign on the building is one small1 dull brass plate on the front wall upon which is engraved 8,mr4 ,murray40 ,the proprietor of the ,hotel ,albemarle is ,mr4 ,a4 ,l4 ,vogel4 ,he is to be congratulated on the rapid success he has met with in his efforts to establish one of the best of ,london hotels4 ,mr4 ,vogel has purchased the freehold of property adjoining the ,albemarle ,hotel1 and a large addition to the hotel will be erected presently1 thus affording room for a new salle a manger and some thirty more bedrooms4 ,mr4 ,vogel issues as a 8,guide to ,london0 a comprehensive and1 in its way1 a complete little book of fifty pages1 illustrated and prettily bound in cloth4 ,it is sent free to any address in the world on application4 ,address ,the ,albemarle1 ,albemarle street1 ,piccadilly1 ,london4 ,,the ,,burlington ,,hotel4 ,the ,burlington is in ,cork street1 a select1 and fashionable business thoroughfare between ,bond street and ,regent street4 ,in this immediate locality are also to be found ,long's ,hotel1 the ,bristol1 ,almond's ,hotel1 patronized by ,chauncey ,depew and his family1 and ,brown's ,hotel in ,dover street4 ,the last-named house affects not to desire ,american patronage4 ,the ,burlington has enjoyed for over a century a truly unique reputation and position in ,london4 ,the hotel1 as seen from the ,burlington street side1 has a dignified exterior4 ,it was erected in the year #agbc1 after designs by ,kent1 by ,richard1 third earl of ,burlington1 but the ,cork street side was added to the old hotel in #ahbh4 ,it contains about one hundred and fifty rooms1 and among these are as fine apartments as may be met with in any hotel in the world4 ,the hotel entrance and the staircase are strikingly attractive1 and the galleries1 opening from the staircase to the first floor1 have a most charming effect4 ,pretty alcoves occupy the ends of the gallery1 and on the side opposite to the colonnade1 which looks on to the staircase1 is a richly ornamented doorway leading to the drawing-rooms4 ,the latter possess curiously decorated ceilings1 painted in oil1 with vases1 birds1 foliage1 etc41 the work of an ,italian artist of the eighteenth century4 ,the bedrooms are also interesting1 as they retain their original carved wood mantelpieces and doorways4 ,there are several noble old rooms on the ground floor with tastefully designed mantelpieces1 panelling1 cornices1 doorways and richly painted ceilings1 which might have served for the background of one of ,hogarth's pictures4 ,in the halls are fine1 delicately carved benches by ,grinling ,gibbons4 ,in their time the old frescoes have been admired by many famous celebrities who have sojourned at the ,burlington4 8,kitty10 the celebrated ,countess of ,queensberry1 friend of ,gay1 dispensed her well-known hospitality at this hostelry1 and ,florence ,nightingale occupied a suite of apartments there for some months after the ,crimean war4 ,here1 too1 ,macaulay wrote a portion of his famous history4 ,coming to more recent times1 there is scarcely a well-known face in ,london that does not know this aristocratic hotel4 ,lord ,beaconsfield1 when he was plain 8,mr4 ,disraeli10 was president of a committee which met there weekly for the purpose of erecting a statue to the memory of the late ,earl of ,derby4 ,the ex-premier1 ,mr4 ,gladstone1 and his family have patronized the ,burlington for the past fifty years4 ,the ,marquis of ,salisbury may be occasionally passed in the corridors on his way to the royal apartments of ,king ,leopold1 and the ,prince of ,wales arrives unattended to visit august relatives1 who patronize the ,burlington4 ,henry ,irving gives his delightful dinner parties there1 and the ,royal ,college of ,physicians have dined there monthly since #ahcj4 ,among distinguished ,americans whose names are on the books1 may be found ,george ,peabody1 the philanthropist1 who resided there for eight months1 also ,jefferson ,davis1 ,john ,jacob ,astor1 ,mr4 ,bancroft1 ,general ,schenck and ,general ,sandford4 ,henry ,m4 ,stanley also is on the cosmopolitan list of celebrated guests of the ,burlington4 ,the ,burlington1 as well as the ,buckingham ,palace ,hotel1 opposite ,buckingham ,palace1 has for many years been managed by ,mr4 ,george ,cooke1 who is one of the proprietors1 and under whose administration both hotels have acquired a reputation second to none in ,europe4 ,electric light1 new sanitation and every other modern improvement have been introduced1 and both the ,british public1 as well as ,american visitors to ,london1 have been quick to appreciate ,mr4 ,cooke's effort to make his hotels real ,london homes for people of taste and refinement4 ,,the ,,savoy4 ,a ,london hotel that has1 so to speak1 jumped into popularity is the ,savoy ,hotel4 ,it is a new house1 on the ,victoria embankment1 with the ,strand at its back1 the public gardens in front and the ,thames at its feet4 ,it lies between ,charing ,cross and ,waterloo ,bridge1 and for a 8finger post0 it has ,cleopatra's needle4 ,there is an entrance for foot passengers from the ,strand and a carriage drive from the embankment directly into the courtyard1 like that of the ,palace ,hotel in ,san ,francisco1 the ,grand ,hotel in ,paris1 and the ,grand in ,brussels4 ,in fact1 the ,savoy is more like a continental than an ,english house1 and the owners call it 8the ,hotel de ,luxe of the world40 ,luxurious in site1 size and appointments1 the ,savoy certainly is4 ,it is not continental1 however1 in its system of charges4 ,nor for that matter is it like any other ,london hotel1 its system being ,american4 ,in all ,parisian hotels candles are a separate charge3 in nearly all ,european hotels attendance is a separate item1 and in most hotels in the civilized world you must pay extra for baths4 ,not so at the ,savoy4 ,when you are told the rate for an apartment everything is included--everything of course but meals--bedroom1 lights1 attendance and baths4 ,there are sixty-seven bath rooms in the house1 and beneath it there is an artesian well four hundred and twenty feet deep4 ,the boiling water1 as well as the cold1 like ,jacobs's bottle1 is inexhaustible1 and you can bathe to your heart's content4 ,you can hire a room for two persons for two dollars a day1 or you may engage a suite at twenty dollars a day4 ,as to table1 you may live economically at the ,savoy1 or you may live like a prince--a rich prince4 ,here are the definite and fixed rates at the ,savoy3--bedrooms for one person1 from seven and sixpence 7nearly two dollars7 per day2 for two persons1 ten-and-six2 suites of apartments containing sitting-room1 bed-room1 dressing-room and private bath-room1 from thirty shillings per day4 ,breakfast from two shillings to three-and-six2 luncheon1 four shillings2 dinner1 seven-and-six2 dinner served in private rooms ten-and-six4 ,guests' servants are boarded at six shillings per day2 price of room according to location4 ,if you want to live in style and enjoy1 at its best1 life in ,london1 engage a suite at the ,savoy1 including parlor and bath-room1 with private lobby and private balcony overlooking the ,thames4 ,it makes no difference what floor you select3 there are 8lifts0 in the house1 so large and luxurious as to be justly called 8ascending rooms30 they run day and night4 ,the rooms on the top floor are equal in height of ceiling to those on the lower floors1 and the furniture is of the same quality throughout the house4 ,general manager1 ,c4 ,ritz2 acting manager1 ,l4 ,echenard4 ,,hotel ,,windsor4 ,the ,hotel ,windsor is in ,victoria street1 only five minutes' walk from ,victoria ,station1 two minutes' walk from the ,american ,legation1 a few steps from ,westminster ,abbey1 ,westminster ,bridge1 the ,houses of ,parliament1 ,st4 ,james's ,park and the ,home ,office4 ,the dining-room of the ,windsor is an especially cheerful apartment and it overlooks the pretty garden of a church4 ,the great plate glass windows in this dining-room are larger than the windows in any other hotel1 so large that they are only moved up or down by ropes to which handles are attached4 ,they let in plenty of daylight1 almost as much as streams freely into the dining-room of the ,hotel ,pasaje1 ,havana1 which opens on the street1 and which is not encumbered with windows at all4 ,the ,hotel ,windsor is not only kept by a 8proprietor0 in the accepted ,american use of that term1 but the furniture1 the building and the ground on which it stands are owned in fee 78freehold10 as ,english people call it71 by two men1 ,j4 ,r4 ,cleave and ,v4 ,d4 ,b4 ,cooper1 the first named being the actual and active manager of the house1 who makes it his home1 the title of the firm being ,j4 ,r4 ,cleave ,co4 ,the premises include fifteen thousand square feet of ground1 which1 without the imposing ten-story stone structure upon it1 is valued at forty-five thousand pounds sterling--not far short of a quarter million dollars4 ,the ,windsor is fortunate in its location4 ,a shilling cab takes you to any theatre or to the shopping centre1 and 'buses pass the door every minute for ,charing ,cross1 ,trafalgar square and the ,strand4 ,time1 ten minutes2 fare1 two cents1 inside or out4 ,there is a lift at the ,windsor of modern style2 the house is lighted by electricity2 there are ,turkish and swimming baths on the lower floor2 to avoid disagreeable odors the kitchen is at the top of the house2 the bedrooms are scrupulously clean1 the cuisine and wines are of the best quality1 and the charges moderate4 ,you can live at the ,windsor1 if you prefer it1 on the ,american plan--rate1 about four dollars a day4 ,the ,european plan is also moderate in price for rooms and meals--a delicious lunch for sixty cents3 choice service4 ,if this is the description of a model hotel1 worthy in every respect of the best patronage1 8that10 as humorist ,gilbert says1 8is the idea ,i intended to convey40 ,the ,windsor was built about twelve years ago4 ,address1 ,j4 ,r4 ,cleave1 manager1 ,victoria street1 ,westminster1 ,s4 ,w4 ,,bailey',s ,,hotels4 ,americans going to ,london for business1 intent upon shopping1 theatre-going and a round of sight-seeing1 find hotels in the ,strand1 or hotels near ,trafalgar square1 very convenient4 ,reference is made to the ,grand1 the ,mtropole1 the ,savoy1 and the ,victoria1 in their alphabetical order4 ,the ,langham1 in ,portland place1 and those select houses near ,burlington ,gardens and ,piccadilly--,long's1 the ,bristol1 the ,burlington and the ,albermarle1 are also central1 convenient1 and in a fashionable district4 ,if1 however1 a family is going to ,london for a protracted stay and the desire of their hearts is to be in an ultra-fashionable locality1 where the aristocracy reside1 and where quiet and selectness reign and salubrity is assured1 then ,bailey's ,hotel1 on the corner of ,gloucester and ,cromwell roads1 is recommended and recommends itself4 ,if you are in haste and do not care for a cab1 the 8underground0 will take you from 8the city0 or from ,charing ,cross to ,bailey's ,hotel in fifteen minutes1 fare five cents1 third class2 fifteen cents in a first-class carriage4 ,when you reach ,gloucester ,road ,station you are at ,bailey's ,hotel1 and within a few minutes walk of ,hyde ,park1 ,kensington ,gardens1 ,cromwell ,gardens1 ,stanhope ,gardens1 ,queen's ,gate ,gardens1 etc41 etc4 ,near at hand are the ,albert ,memorial1 ,albert ,hall1 and ,south ,kensington ,museum4 ,not only is ,bailey's ,hotel in the heart of this fashionable locality1 surrounded by the residences of members of the nobility and others1 but the hotel itself is under royal patronage1 and has entertained the ,prince of ,wales1 the ,duke of ,edinburgh1 the ,duke of ,connaught1 the ,princess ,marie1 the ,princess ,louise1 and other members of the royal household4 ,the hotel1 which stands on the property of ,lord ,harrington1 who owns all the land hereabouts1 was built in #ahge4 ,it is a brick building1 six stories high--a modern hotel with modern improvements1 and all possible safeguards against annoyances and dangers4 ,there are accommodations for two hundred and fifty guests4 ,in the rear of the house is a beautiful garden4 ,the decorations and furnishings of the apartments are in admirable taste1 and display an individual and artistic sense of fitness4 ,the style is especially ,english1 but also especially beautiful--there is no gaudiness1 but neither is there dinginess4 ,unlike ,american hotels1 little space is given to halls1 bar-room1 etc41 but there is a cosey1 homelike atmosphere1 which is enhanced by the rich and substantial surroundings4 ,because the bar1 with its glitter of glass and brass does not obtrude itself1 let it not be supposed that wine is eschewed4 ,on the contrary1 the wine cellar is a feature of the house1 and the stock of wines is valued at ten thousand pounds4 ,as to the quality of the wines1 and1 by the way1 that of the cuisine1 they are unsurpassed in ,london4 ,the sanitary arrangements bear the closest inspection4 ,some of the very old and small ,london hotels are not to be trusted in case of fire4 ,bailey's ,hotel is ,american-like in the particulars of fire-escapes and preparations for extinguishing a fire4 ,there is no attempt to lead people to believe that very low prices prevail or that ,bailey's is a 8cheap house0 in any sense of the term4 ,on the contrary1 you pay for the best1 and you get it4 ,you can live at ,bailey's ,hotel on the ,european plan at about the same rate as at an ,american hotel of the first-class4 ,single rooms rent at about one dollar per day2 double rooms from a dollar and a half2 suites from four dollars and a half upward4 ,these are the winter rates4 ,they are a trifle higher during 8the season40 ,as at all ,english hotels1 breakfast varies in price from fifty cents to seventy-five cents2 luncheon from sixty cents2 table d'hte dinner1 one dollar and twenty-five cents4 ,of course it is ,english1 and there are some extras4 ,it is a rule at every ,english hotel1 except the ,savoy in ,london1 to make a separate charge for 8attendance10 about thirty-five cents per day for each person1 and ,bailey's conforms to the rule4 ,no ,american likes it and it seems odd1 but it is the custom in ,england1 and when in ,rome---4 ,four dollars per week is the charge for each member of the canine race4 ,so much for ,bailey's ,hotel proper1 but the same proprietor1 ,mr4 ,james ,bailey1 is also proprietor of the ,south ,kensington ,hotel1 and1 strange to say1 the two hotels are distant from each other only five minutes' walk1 the ,south ,kensington being in ,queen's ,gate ,terrace4 ,being in the same locality1 and having the same proprietor1 the above remarks and particulars will apply1 almost word for word1 to both houses4 ,americans who prefer a quiet1 aristocratic quarter1 and especially those who have children1 will make no mistake in applying for rooms at either hotel1 each with its surrounding parks and gardens being particularly adapted to families4 ,for the ,south ,kensington1 address ,queen's ,gate ,terrace1 ,london1 ,s4 ,w4 ,,in ,,jermyn ,,street4 ,a couple of small1 quiet hotels in ,jermyn street--a street which runs parallel with ,piccadilly--may be found pleasant by families or by ladies without escort4 ,they lack that bustle and noise to which some people object1 and they are not 8company hotels10 that is to say the head and front of each is always visible and approachable4 ,mr4 ,rawlings is proprietor of the ,rawlings ,hotel1 and ,mr4 ,morle with his family keeps and manages the house which bears his name4 ,while ,jermyn street is narrow and its two hotels are quiet1 plenty of life and gayety are to be had near at hand4 ,bond street and ,regent street1 two of the most fashionable shopping streets of ,london1 are hard by1 and the parks and palaces are within walking distance4 ,rawlings' ,hotel is famous for its cuisine1 and a feature at ,morle's is that you can arrange to live on the ,american plan if you prefer1 the charges being 8inclusive10 as they call this plan there1 and very moderate withal4 ,both these houses are homelike and comfortable1 but they are not strictly fashionable4 ,do not confuse ,morle's in ,jermyn street with ,morley's in ,trafalgar square4 ,morley's has a magnificent outlook1 with the noble ,nelson ,monument1 ,landseer's lions and the playing fountains in front1 and the dinner served at ,morley's is of the best quality1 but the house is very old and rather worn1 notwithstanding its white and attractive exterior4 ,,the ,,norfolk',s ,,moderate ,,charges4 ,if you want to get away from the ,strand1 ,regent street and ,piccadilly2 if you are tired of the glare and blare of showy 8,american hotels10 and you prefer a very quiet1 but healthy locality1 jot down in your memorandum book1 8,norfolk ,hotel1 ,harrington ,road1 ,south ,kensington1 ,s4,w40 ,the ,norfolk was built in the year #ahhi1 not by a company1 but by ,mr4 ,a4 ,fatman1 who himself keeps the house4 ,it is not large1 there is room only for eighty guests1 but these eighty can be made very comfortable4 ,it is not like a hotel in certain respects4 ,the rooms are not all of one size nor of one shape4 ,the furniture does not look as if it were turned out by machinery in ,grand ,rapids and bought by the car-load4 ,it has character and distinction1 no suites of furniture being alike4 ,there is nothing at the ,norfolk to remind you1 for instance1 of a ,salt ,lake hotel1 with its great halls and corridors1 and its cold1 bare walls4 ,good taste1 as well as money1 was used in building and furnishing the ,norfolk1 and the result is an attractive1 cosy1 home-like house4 ,after entering the ,norfolk and admiring its pleasant surroundings1 the tariff of charges will surprise you4 ,rooms are let as low as two-and-six 7about sixty cents7 a night1 and1 wonderful to relate for a ,london hotel1 there is no charge for attendance4 ,fish breakfast1 one-and-six 7thirty-five cents72 afternoon tea1 sixpence2 the same price for hot or cold bath4 ,,the ,,first ,,avenue4 ,don't be prejudiced at the sound of 8,first ,avenue ,hotel40 ,it is in ,holborn1 a bustling1 busy thoroughfare1 but which has nothing in common with our ,first avenue in ,new ,york4 ,the ,gordon's ,hotel ,company made a mistake in naming the house2 they meant to say ,fifth ,avenue ,hotel1 for the ,first ,avenue ,hotel ranks probably with our ,fifth ,avenue ,hotel in ,new ,york1 only the ,first ,avenue is not an old house4 ,holborn is one of ,london's main arteries1 a continuation1 east1 of ,oxford street4 ,the ,first ,avenue is not very far from ,st4 ,paul's and ,newgate4 ,the former being a noble cathedral1 you will wish to get into2 the latter being a prison1 you will wish to keep out of1 unless for a temporary visit4 ,,other ,,hotels4 ,another hotel in ,holborn which may be commended is the ,holborn ,viaduct ,hotel1 near the city station of the ,london1 ,chatham and ,dover ,railway4 ,a pleasant house in ,high ,holborn is the ,inns of ,court2 neither fashionable nor grand1 but select and comfortable2 largely patronized by ,english people4 ,terms moderate4 ,the main entrance is in ,lincoln's ,inn ,fields4 ,there are some famous old houses farther east1 in the city1 in such a bustling1 busy quarter as ,st4 ,martin's le ,grand1 near the ,general ,post ,office4 ,the ,queen's ,hotel in this neighborhood is best known4 ,not far from this locality is the ,manchester ,hotel1 in ,aldersgate street4 ,the proprietor of the ,manchester ,hotel especially solicits ,american patronage4 ,those who desire to make frequent visits to the ,houses of ,parliament and that grand old pile1 ,westminster ,abbey1 will find the ,westminster ,palace ,hotel convenient4 ,it has an imposing front1 in ,victoria street1 ,westminster1 almost opposite to the ,abbey4 ,within five minutes' walk of this hotel are the ,home ,office1 ,st4 ,james's ,park1 the ,horse ,guards1 ,westminster ,bridge1 leading to the ,surrey side of ,london1 the ,united ,states ,legation1 and the ,victoria ,station of the ,london1 ,chatham and ,dover ,railway4 ,the favorite and well kept ,hotel ,windsor1 referred to elsewhere1 is also in ,victoria street1 and still nearer to the ,station and the ,legation before mentioned4 ,convenient to ,hyde ,park are the ,alexandra ,hotel1 #af to #ba ,st4 ,george's ,place1 ,hyde ,park ,corner1 and the ,hyde ,park ,hotel4 ,the latter is at the west end of ,oxford street1 in ,hyde ,park ,place1 near the ,marble ,arch4 ,claridge's ,hotel used to be considered 8the crack0 house of ,london1 and it is still patronized by the nobility1 members of the diplomatic corps and by royalty4 ,nos4 #di to #ee ,brook street1 ,grosvenor ,square4 ,the ,hotels connected with the railway stations are large structures1 solidly built1 fire-proof1 as a general rule1 and fitted up with every modern contrivance4 ,they are desirable stopping places if you arrive late at night or if you intend to make an early start by rail1 from the station1 in the morning4 ,they were erected for that purpose and they serve it admirably4 ,there are very many reputable hotels in ,london which are worthy of the best patronage1 detailed reference to which1 in this limited space1 it would not be possible to make4 ,if none of the hotels described or alluded to in the foregoing list suits your plans and purposes1 consult friends who have had experience in such matters4 ,but don't go1 hap-hazard1 into the smallest and oldest ,london hotels of whose very existence you never heard4 ,some of them are unpleasant1 as residences2 others are unhealthy4 ,if your stay in ,london is short there is every reason why you should put up at the best houses4 ,if you make a protracted visit and desire to economize1 go to a boarding house or take lodgings4 ,you will see signs in windows all over ,london3 hire rooms and eat where your fancy or purse directs4 ,london housekeepers are glad to 8eke out0 by letting rooms in the summer1 and with a small tip now and then to the maid1 life can be made very comfortable in ,london lodgings4 ,a ,,few ,,boarding ,,houses4 ,there are plenty of first-class boarding houses where ,americans are welcome4 ,five or six come to mind--,mrs4 ,pool's1 ,no4 #bj ,bedford place2 ,mrs4 ,goodman's1 ,no4 #ac ,montague place2 ,mrs4 ,philp's1 ,no4 #f ,montague place2 ,mrs4 ,wright's1 ,no4 #ae ,upper ,woburn place1 and ,mr4 ,cooper's1 ,no4 #a ,bedford place1 ,russell square4 ,mrs4 ,philp is an ,american whose husband keeps the ,cockburn ,hotel in ,glasgow2 and there is a ,philp's ,cockburn ,hotel in ,edinburgh4 ,mrs4 ,philp's drawing-room is beautiful1 the dining-room cheerful1 and there is a pretty garden which is backed by the walls of the ,british ,museum1 so ,mrs4 ,philp is easily found4 ,those who want to live economically but comfortably are recommended to the handsome private hotel or pension of ,mrs4 ,marcus ,pool1 #bj ,bedford place1 ,russell square4 ,this is a pleasant and convenient quarter of the city--quite handy for the ,british ,museum1 not far from ,charing ,cross1 and a shilling cab fare to railway stations and places of amusement4 ,the house is furnished and appointed on a liberal scale2 the drawing-room is large and cheerful2 the bedrooms are luxuriously fitted up in the best taste1 and they have a pleasant outlook4 ,there is a ,broadwood piano1 also a new billiard room1 with a table from the famous firm of ,bennett4 ,the house has a refined1 home-like air1 well representing the character of ,mrs4 ,pool and her charming daughter4 ,french and ,german are spoken4 ,the terms at the ,pool pension are from two dollars a day1 which include breakfast1 table d'hte dinner and attendance--8everything inclusive40 ,those are the terms 8in the season20 the winter rates are lower4 ,the cuisine is of the substantial ,english quality1 but not heavy4 ,at ,pool's pension you are sure to meet cultivated and select people4 ,those who have been ,mrs4 ,pool's guests appear perfectly satisfied2 for they return again and again4 ,mr4 ,cooper keeps a good house and he caters to people accustomed to refined surroundings4 ,he is a typical ,londoner of the middle class--honest1 blunt and out-spoken4 ,mrs4 ,lucy ,h4 ,hooper1 wife of the ,american ,vice-,consul in ,paris1 recommends ,no4 #a ,bedford place4 ,mrs4 ,hooper makes it her stopping place when she is in ,london4 8,american ,family ,home40--,an establishment which meets with especial favor among fastidious tourists is ,demeter ,house1 #ac ,montague place1 ,russell square1 ,w4 ,c4 ,the location is select1 within easy access of the centres of shopping and amusement4 ,the house is kept by ,mrs4 ,a4 ,goodman1 who aims to maintain a house replete with the comforts and freedom of a refined home and the advantages of a hotel1 but with less expense4 ,the house is spacious and well furnished1 the table excellent and carefully provided4 ,many leading ,american families make this their home during their annual visits to ,london4 ,put down 8,no4 #ae ,upper ,woburn place1 ,tavistock square10 and note that it is not far from ,euston station4 ,it is a quiet street4 ,the house is kept by an ,english woman of refinement1 ,mrs4 ,wright and her maiden daughters1 and it may be commended as a pleasant ,christian home1 where grace is said before meals4 ,of these boarding houses1 like all the hotels mentioned in this article1 the writer speaks from his own knowledge and experience4 ,but don't count on getting accommodation in ,london hotels in the season1 without making previous arrangements or giving notice in advance of your arrival1 or you may be disappointed4 ,,where ,,to ,,lunch ,,in ,,london1 ,,and ,,where ,,not ,,to ,,lunch4 ,it may be set down at the outset that there are no restaurants in ,london equal to ,delmonico's in ,fifth avenue1 or the ,caf ,savarin in the ,equitable ,building1 ,new ,york1 and no ,london restaurant serves a table d'hte dinner at any price equal in quality and style of service to that furnished at the select and elegant 8,cambridge10 ,fifth avenue and #cc;d street1 ,new ,york4 ,neither is there a restaurant of the third class that will compare with ,mouquin's1 in ,ann street1 where everything is cooked to a turn1 and where even a fastidious gourmet need not find fault4 ,there are two or three ,italian places in ,regent street where they serve a 8,chateaubriand10 enough for two persons1 for one dollar1 but nowhere do you get a dish of maccaroni that is more palatable than at ,mouquin's1 and neither in ,london nor ,paris do you get as good ,burgundy for the price as ,mouquin's beaujolais--half bottle1 forty cents4 ,the foreign halls are more richly gilded1 and the furniture is of finer texture1 but if you are looking for as good food and as well served at that at ,mouquin's1 at ,mouquin's prices1 you will look in vain4 ,in the price of wines1 however1 no first-class hotel or restaurant anywhere that ,i know of sells wines as low as the manager of the ,hotel del ,monte1 ,monterey1 ,cal4 ,in ,france1 on the ,swiss border1 ,i found vin ordinaire almost as cheap as water1 in the small inns4 ,the ,hotel del ,monte1 please bear in mind1 is a superbly appointed and grand establishment1 and they serve you a half bottle of good ,california ,zinfandel for fifteen cents4 ,but then this hotel company own their own vineyards1 and make no profit on wine served at table4 ,it is a sort of 8sample0 or advertisement for their wines4 8,the ,aerated ,bread ,shops10 which are as 8thick as flies0 in ,london1 are probably good enough places to drop into if you are in a great hurry1 for a cup of coffee or cocoa and a roll or piece of dry1 digestible seed cake4 ,if you abhor marble tables1 if you must have a serviette and you would avoid a crowd and mixed company1 keep out of the 8aerated bread shops10 and by the same token and by all means keep out of the ,lockhart lunch shops4 ,the 8aerated bread shops0 are tolerable2 the others are not4 ,much more worthy of patronage than aerated bread shops or ,lockhart's lunch shops is the confectionery and cake counter of ,william ,buszard1 #aig and #aii ,oxford street1 where everything is clean and inviting4 ,a similar place of the first-class is that in 8the city0 of ,alfred ,purssell ,co41 ,no4 #hj ,cornhill1 ,e4 ,c4 ,the proprietor of this establishment is related to the late ,william ,purssell1 founder of the famous restaurant in ,broadway which still bears his name4 ,there are several pleasant places in and near ,piccadilly where you may obtain a cup of tea or cocoa and a dainty sandwich1 just enough to 8stay the appetite40 ,one of the best of these is ,callard's1 #adf ,new ,bond street1 but even in this neat and clean little shop they don't know what a serviette is4 ,romano's1 called 8,the ,vaudeville10 #cii ,strand1 is recommended for its moderate charges1 but this is a place ,i have never tried4 ,so much for the confectioners and the cheap restaurants4 ,the ,tivoli restaurant1 up stairs1 connected with the ,tivoli ,music ,hall1 is in the ,strand1 just ,east of ,charing ,cross4 8,la ,haute ,cuisine ,franaise10 as they term it1 is in charge of a famous chef1 ,m4 ,gerard4 ,a ,table d',hte ,luncheon1 at #bs4 #f;d41 from #ab to #c2 ,parisian dinner1 at #es41 from #f to #i1 served in the ,flemish ,room4 ,londoners are proud of their ,holborn ,restaurant1 #bah ,high ,holborn1 where the glass and the brass and the marble columns are resplendent and imposing1 and where you are regaled with vocal music 7,english glees7 during the dinner hour1 but the meals are not daintily served3 the butter is not cold1 and the plates are not warm1 and unless you order a costly meal at the ,holborn ,restaurant1 the waiter may wait on you with condescension4 ,dinner1 three-and-six4 ,if you are in 8the city10 in the neighborhood of the ,bank 7the ,bank of ,england71 and you have a desire to see how and where some of the brokers and commission merchants lunch1 step into the ,winchester ,house in ,bishopgate street--a well-lighted1 well-furnished restaurant1 where no charge is made to customers1 strange to say1 for use of water and soap4 ,ladies who are in the neighborhood of ,westminster ,abbey or who have business at the ,american ,legation1 are recommended to the ,army and ,navy stores1 in ,victoria street1 opposite the ,windsor ,hotel1 where a dainty lunch is served at a very moderate sum4 ,you can do your shopping in the same large establishment4 ,they sell everything1 from a poached egg to an ,axminster carpet or a wedding outfit4 ,the ,army and ,navy stores is on the coperative plan4 ,to gain entrance you must either use a member's ticket number or use good judgment4 ,gatti is a well-known name in the ,strand1 where the ,gattis have two large1 gaudily furnished restaurants1 one of which extends to ,king ,william street4 ,the ,gattis are also owners of the ,adelphi ,theatre1 where you may always enjoy a drama--if you enjoy melodrama4 ,the ,gattis are ,swiss1 and one of the brothers is a legislator in one of the ,swiss ,cantons4 ,they commenced in a small way1 in the east end of ,london1 many years ago and made a reputation for their ices4 ,they long since moved to the west end1 where they increased their business and they now conduct a thriving trade4 ,all ,gatti's waiters are foreigners4 ,they are a talkative set and some people might prefer that their linen be nearer the color of snow4 ,,in ,,regent ,,street4 ,if you are in the neighborhood of ,piccadilly ,circus1 a fair place to get luncheon at a fair price is 8the ,florence0 in ,rupert street1 ,regent street4 ,it is an ,italian restaurant2 the lunch is served table d'hte and the price is one shilling and sixpence4 ,but there is no profit to the restaurateur in the mere lunch3 you are expected to order wine--indeed that is the expectation in all ,english restaurants and hotels--all hotels that are not temperance houses4 ,at the ,florence you can get dinner from six to nine1 for half-a-crown--sixty-two cents--and you order wine of course4 ,if you are fond of high living1 and you don't mind paying for it1 take a meal in the middle of the day or early in the evening at the ,hotel ,continental4 ,it is in the lower part of ,regent street1 on the corner of ,waterloo place1 within the shadow of the ,duke of ,york column4 ,it was one of the first houses in ,london to adopt the ,french style in name--,hotel ,continental in lieu of ,continental ,hotel--and it was one of the first to serve a first class dinner in the ,french style4 ,the reputation for its cuisine is second to none1 and the hotel prides itself upon the accuracy of the names and vintages of the wines supplied4 ,it has the monopoly in ,london of that famous brand of champagne1 8,medaille d',or0 which received the grand prize in the ,french ,exhibition of #ahgh over sixty other competing wines4 ,cigarettes made of the finest tobacco are manufactured expressly for the hotel in ,constantinople and ,salonica4 ,there is always a very gay scene in the ,hotel ,continental supper room after the theatres close2 it might become too lively in the early hours of the morning1 but the police regulations oblige such places as the ,continental to close their doors at one ,a4,m4 ,dinner from seven-and-six to twelve-and-six1 without wine1 of course2 for although you are in the ,continental you are not on the ,continent4 ,a4 ,y4 ,wilson1 who has been connected with the house since its opening1 is the manager4 ,more attention is given to 8the inner man0 in ,london than in any other place ,i wot of4 ,they seem to live to eat there1 not eat to live1 and yet some one has noted this difference--you eat dinner in ,london1 while in ,paris you dine4 ,mention the subject of restaurants in ,london and the majority will ask you1 8,have you dined at ,verrey's in ,regent street80 ,yes1 ,i've been to ,verrey's and ,i found it very gloomy1 and very expensive not to say oppressive4 ,you are in the middle of the house and the room is lighted from a skylight4 ,it is not at all cheerful4 ,blanchard's1 8,the ,burlington10 #afi ,regent street1 is patronized by the higher classes4 ,dinner from five shillings to twelve-and-six4 ,no higher priced dinner in ,london4 ,for a healthful1 nicely-served meal1 whether it consist of a mutton chop and a boiled potato or a dinner of several courses1 much better than the aforesaid establishments in ,regent street is the ,caf ,royal1 at ,no4 #fh ,regent street4 ,in the 8,grand ,caf ,restaurant ,royal10 where dinner is served1 prices rule high4 ,for luncheon go into the 8,grill ,room0 of the ,caf ,royal4 ,you will find the rates reasonable1 the food of the best1 the appointments on a grand scale1 and the service satisfactory4 ,these remarks will also apply to 8,the ,monico10 at ,piccadilly ,circus and ,shaftesbury avenue4 ,the ,st4 ,james ,restaurant1 which extends from ,piccadilly to ,regent street1 with entrances on both streets1 is a large1 showy place1 with plenty of glitter about it1 and wearing the big-sounding title of ,st4 ,james ,hall4 ,the rates are not low1 the food is not of the choicest quality1 the service is not of the best1 and the waiters may over-charge you unless you watch them closely4 ,the charge for washing your hands at the ,st4 ,james1 be you a patron or not1 is two-pence4 ,this is a regular charge made by the proprietors1 but if you don't also fee the man who hands you a towel or fills your basin1 you might get a cold reception down-stairs the next time you call1 and you may fill your own basin4 ,at the ,criterion1 in ,piccadilly ,circus1 you can take your choice2 go up stairs1 and the charges are higher2 down in the basement the same dishes are served at a lower price4 ,to quote their bill1 8table d'hte three-and-six1 le diner ,parisien1 five shillings40 ,english people when they are thirsty drink beer1 wine1 or something stronger2 ,americans who live in cities1 ,american women at least1 prefer something weaker1 soda water1 for instance1 which1 charged with gas1 looks cool and inviting as it comes bubbling from a highly polished1 silver-plated fountain4 ,not until recently could ,american taste in this matter be gratified in ,london4 ,now there are two 8,american confectioneries0 kept by ,fuller1 one1 the principle establishment1 at #bjf ,regent street2 the other1 at #ceh ,strand1 both central locations4 ,the first is close to ,oxford ,circus and not far from the ,langham ,hotel4 ,at ,fuller's you can get ice-cream soda and 8caramels fresh ever hour40 ,in fact1 on a pleasant summer day ,fuller's1 in ,regent street1 will remind you of ,huyler's on ,broadway1 and if you are a ,new ,yorker1 you will meet many familiar faces there4 ,if you retain a juvenile penchant for peanuts1 that taste can also be gratified at ,fuller's4 ,,the ,,grill ,,room ,,of ,,the ,,grand4 ,so many of the transient guests at hotels in ,london are out shopping and sight-seeing1 that they generally take only breakfast1 or1 at most1 breakfast and dinner1 at their hotels1 always lunching wherever convenience may permit4 ,the meals at ,european hotels being usually a separate charge1 the hotel is a sufferer by this custom1 so that at some1 if not most houses1 it is understood that1 if you take your meals out1 a higher charge will be made for your apartment4 ,the manager of the ,grand ,hotel1 however1 has opened a restaurant of his own1 in his own house1 which is so attractive that it not only keeps together his regular guests1 but allures 8the outside world10 and thus the 8,grill ,room10 as it is called1 of the ,grand has become famous in ,london4 ,while within and a part of the ,grand ,hotel1 it is not reached by the main entrance in ,northumberland avenue4 ,it is at the eastern end of the building1 around the corner1 in the ,strand1 and is in what we would call in ,new ,york a basement1 but no ordinary 8basement0 is this1 and the staircase leading to it is anything but ordinary4 ,the ,grill ,room of the ,grand is a well-lighted1 cheerful apartment1 richly carpeted and finely furnished4 ,the chairs are comfortably upholstered1 the walls are gorgeous with polished tiles1 the table furniture is dainty1 the food is of prime quality1 and the tariff of charges moderate4 ,don't be surprised at the charge1 two-pence1 for washing your hands in the ,grill ,room lavatory1 and unless you occupy a room1 the charge for use of lavatory in the hotel proper is three-pence2 but it is worth half a crown merely to see the lavatory1 or rather the staircase and landing leading to it1 so beautiful are the colored marble fountain1 the eastern rugs1 the fernery and the ,oriental lamps1 with which this lower part of the house is decorated4 ,the view of this lower part from the marble staircase on the main floor has been called fairy-like2 it is certainly very pleasing4 ,strangers are not allowed the run and freedom of the hotels in ,europe as they are in 8the ,states40 ,they can't use the smoking-room1 read the newspapers1 loiter about the halls1 make a general rendezvous of the house and help themselves to stationery in ,european hotels as they do on this side4 ,their hotels lack some of our popular features and the excellent service and discipline of the ,american hotels1 but1 on the other hand1 they are not so noisy1 and are more private4 ,american hotels suit ,americans1 and the hotels in ,england satisfy the wants and desires of ,english people4 ,,simpson',s ,,divan4 ,a ,characteristic ,english ,restaurant4--,a good1 plain1 thoroughly wholesome ,english dinner is served in an appetizing way by ,english waiters at ,simpson's1 in the ,strand1 next door to ,terry's ,theatre1 opposite ,exeter ,hall4 ,you get a bowl of good soup1 a course of fish1 a cut from the joint1 a salad1 two kinds of vegetables1 with bread and butter1 a biscuit and a bit of rich ,gorgonzola or dry ,wiltshire cheese to wind up with1 and your whole bill will be four shillings1 to which add threepence for 8attendance10 which is charged in the bill1 and about threepence more which you will hand to the waiter4 ,a feature of the place is that the hot joint1 over a chafing dish and on a small table1 is wheeled round to you1 and it is there cut before your eyes and transferred to your plate4 ,you can get a lower-priced dinner in ,london1 and higher-priced dinners where you please1 but none of a better quality and none that is more satisfactory unless you demand fancy fol de rols1 indigestible entres and ,french dishes made of little or nothing4 ,simpson's is justly celebrated for its 8fish0 dinners4 ,both these and the meal above described are served in the middle of the day and in the evening also4 ,on ,sunday the evening dinner only is served2 the place is closed until #f ,p4,m4 ,simpson's enjoys the patronage of ,henry ,irving and of other people famous in the theatrical world1 just as it did in the last century4 ,henry ,irving's ,lyceum ,theatre1 by the way1 is in the ,strand1 near ,simpson's1 but on the opposite side of the street4 ,in the summer of #ahij ,i saw ,d',oyly ,carte enjoying his dinner at ,simpson's4 ,this is a special compliment to the place1 because that magnificent hotel1 the ,savoy1 in which this theatrical manager is interested1 is just around the corner from ,simpson's1 on the ,thames ,embankment4 ,during the summer of '#ia ,i met at ,simpson's another theatrical manager1 our own ,augustin ,daly1 with his wife4 ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,daly occasionally left the ,hotel ,mtropole1 where they had apartments1 to partake of one of ,simpson's substantial1 well-cooked and appetizing meals4 ,there's no ,simpson now1 the founder died long ago1 but 8,simpson's0 is there yet1 as it was a hundred years ago1 although it is now a limited company4 ,howard ,paul eulogizes this place1 and ,stephen ,fiske recommends it4 ,besides being a brilliant writer on dramatic matters1 ,mr4 ,fiske has made a study of the gastronomic art1 and he lived in ,london continuously during nine years4 ,the reading public put faith in ,stephen ,fiske's dramatic criticism2 his intimates also trust to his good taste and judgment in ordering a dinner4 ,it is a well-known fact that changes in the employees at this establishment are seldom made4 ,some of the waiters have stood at the tables for nearly two decades1 and the head waiter has been there 7probably not always as head waiter7 for more than thirty years4 ,the name of this head water is ,charles ,flowerdew1 so he informed me1 and ,i can impart this piece of information--that this same ,flowerdew is a character worth studying4 ,there is nothing of the 8,yellowplush0 type about him1 but he is such a character1 courteous and civil 7yes1 seemingly servile to an ,american's eye71 such as ,dickens delighted to draw4 ,mr4 ,flowerdew knows all the old customers at ,simpson's1 and1 what is of more consequence to a hungry man1 he knows all the choice cuts4 ,he will suggest the best dishes1 the rare bits1 and he will serve you from the joint1 ad libitum1 as he proudly remarks4 ,when next you go to ,london1 go to ,simpson's1 #ajc ,strand4 ,you will be sure to meet a few ,london notabilities1 you will be sure of a good dinner1 and last1 but by no means least1 you will see the polite and dignified ,mr4 ,charles ,flowerdew4 ,managing director1 ,e4 ,w4 ,cathie4 ,illustration ,,railway ,,travelling ,,in ,,england4 ,while our facilities in railway travelling have wonderfully improved in the past ten years1 it must not be supposed that in conservative ,england they have stood still entirely4 ,but the improvements in carriage accommodation there have been so steady and gradual that passengers hardly recognize how much more they get for their money now than they did a generation back4 ,for instance1 the old first-class carriage of forty years ago was fifteen feet long1 six and a half feet broad1 and less than five feet high1 and this was constructed to seat eighteen passengers2 in other words1 each person had about twenty-six cubic feet of space4 ,in the carriages built to-day to accommodate ten first-class passengers1 each one has ninety cubic feet4 ,nor because we in ,america have such luxurious ,pullman and vestibuled cars must it be imagined that the ,english railway carriages have not comforts and luxuries of their own4 ,some of them1 for example1 are built to seat only two or three persons1 thus securing complete privacy to a party of that number4 ,i have never occupied a more comfortable railway carriage than in going1 as ,i did1 last ,september1 from ,edinburgh to ,london over the lines of the ,caledonian and ,london and ,northwestern railways1 on the world-famous train called the 8,flying ,scotchman0--and a flyer it is4 ,the distance is four hundred miles1 and it is run in eight and one-half hours4 ,you leave ,edinburgh at #aj4ae ,a4,m4 and reach ,euston square before #g ,p4,m4 ,as there are several important stations between the two cities at which long stops are made1 the train must make between many of the stations much more than fifty miles an hour4 ,the speed was so great at times that it caused unusual vibration1 and at times it gave me a slight reminder of sea-sickness4 ,the carriage was built to seat two persons only4 ,in it there were two large1 softly-upholstered1 sleep-inviting arm-chairs1 one on each side of the car4 ,between the two chairs at the back was a door leading to a lavatory for the sole use of the two passengers4 ,it was supplied with iced water1 washing water1 towels1 mirror and all the etceteras and conveniences that are desirable in travelling4 ,the car had in all six windows--two at each side and two in front4 ,between the two front windows was a handsomely-framed bevelled mirror4 ,the floor was richly carpeted and the carriage was supplied with a number of brass brackets and hooks for the travellers' impedimenta4 ,but more than this--across the front1 breast high1 was a shelf about six inches wide to hold books and papers1 and below this another shelf about the same width for a foot-rest4 ,the carriage was seven feet square and seven feet high4 ,here a man and wife or two friends can make themselves about as comfortable as if they were at home in their own drawing-room4 ,you exchange your shoes for slippers1 don your smoking jacket and if your companion does not object1 you can enjoy a fragrant ,havana4 ,to be sure this is against the rules of the company and your indulgence in the weed would cost you forty shillings if you were found out1 but the distances are great and the stops few on this 8flying ,scotchman10 so there is ample time to enjoy a smoke undisturbed4 ,no extra fare is demanded for this most luxurious vehicle2 it is simply ranked as a first-class carriage1 but you had better write to the station master and engage such a carriage a day or two in advance of your intended journey1 for not more than one of these small private cars is by chance attached even to a 8flying ,scotchman40 ,no extra charge is made for this engagement in advance4 ,the complaint years ago that passengers were locked in the cars can seldom now be made4 ,the custom is almost entirely abolished2 it caused so many accidents4 ,the aim of each and every passenger on a ,british railway is to secure a seat with his back to the engine4 ,in this way he avoids draughts of air3 draughts from a bottle they never object to4 ,in fact both men and women drink often and deeply during a journey1 but it does not seem to affect them4 ,time tables are not given away as with us3 the charge is a penny1 two cents4 ,you never hear 8all aboard0 at railway stations1 but the much pleasanter sounding words1 8take your seats1 please40 ,,luggage ,,and ,,baggage4 ,you do occasionally get a paper check or receipt for baggage on a continental railway1 but in ,england seldom or never4 ,still a piece of baggage is seldom lost on an ,english railway4 ,it gets to its proper destination at last1 but it seems to be more by good luck than by good management4 ,baggage1 or 8luggage10 as they term it1 goes astray sometimes1 but on the other hand1 the system for tracing and finding it is excellent4 ,they have a 8lost luggage0 department in the principal stations4 ,they are very particular as to the quantity of baggage4 ,each passenger is allowed so many pounds4 ,at every station there is an official who keeps a sharp eye on the porters who handle trunks1 and at the slightest suspicion of overweight the official will order a trunk on the scales with which all stations are supplied4 ,there are strong racks in every car for light luggage1 but a great deal of what we should term heavy baggage finds its way on the racks and under the seats4 ,englishmen travel with an extraordinary quantity of impedimenta4 ,they carry large satchels1 also portmanteaus resembling a good-sized trunk--all because no checks are given4 ,everybody wants to keep his luggage in hand or in sight4 ,there is a prominent sign posted in some of the large stations to this effect3 8,any porter who is discovered accepting a fee will be instantly dismissed40 ,and yet you can't get your trunk moved an inch without dropping a few coppers into a porter's hand4 ,the fee system prevails everywhere1 from the station master who furnishes information to the uniformed porter who whistles for a 8four-wheeler0 or hansom4 ,in many cases the door of the toilet room is only unlocked by dropping a penny in a slot4 ,but this is a better arrangement than exists at stations on the continent1 where an old woman stands guard1 whom you must fee before you are allowed to leave4 ,a ,,royal ,,railway ,,trip4 ,when the ,queen of ,england makes a railway journey it is an event of no ordinary importance4 ,with her it is not1 as with the ,president of the ,united ,states for example1 so simple a matter as climbing up the steps of a ,pullman or getting into a ,pennsylvania ,florida special or ,chicago limited1 and proceeding without fuss4 ,no1 when ,queen ,victoria is about to travel preparations are made long beforehand and all the regular arrangements of the road are subservient to the accommodation of the royal train4 ,when ,her ,majesty journeyed by the ,caledonian ,railway from ,carlisle to ,aberdeen1 en route to ,gosport and ,ballater1 many days previous there was issued the table of instructions for working the trains over the line on that day4 ,they were intended for the use of the company's employees only1 who were forbidden to make known their contents4 ,a pilot engine was sent over the road twenty minutes before the royal train1 in charge of the foreman of the locomotive department4 ,this engine maintained throughout the journey the uniform interval of twenty minutes4 ,no other train1 engine or vehicle1 except passenger trains1 was permitted to travel on the other track between the passing of the pilot and the royal train1 and even passenger trains had to slow down to ten miles per hour4 ,one of the orders issued was this3 8,drivers of such trains as are standing on sidings or adjoining lines1 waiting for the passing of the royal train1 must prevent their engines from emitting smoke or making a noise by blowing off steam when the royal train is passing40 ,brakesmen were enjoined to see that nothing projected from their trains4 ,each foreman plate-layer1 or 8section-boss10 as we would say1 after examining his length of line1 stationed himself at the south end and an assistant at the north2 after the pilot had passed they walked till they met1 seeing that all was right4 ,the stations were kept clear and the public admitted at one station only1 the last4 ,even here1 cheering or other demonstration was forbidden1 8the object being that ,her ,majesty should be perfectly undisturbed during the journey40 ,these instructions1 signed by ,james ,thompson1 general manager1 and ,irvine ,kempt1 general superintendent1 were obeyed in their minutest detail4 ,it must not be supposed that the company has to pocket the loss when the ,queen travels4 ,the royal lady not only does not travel on 8passes10 but she pays all expenses incurred4 ,a copy of the instructions printed in gold are presented to the ,queen and she cannot fail to be gratified by the care and thought exhibited by the company4 ,the entire mileage of the ,caledonian ,railway is one thousand miles2 the main line from ,carlisle to ,aberdeen1 over which the queen travelled1 is about two hundred and forty miles4 ,it traverses a beautiful country4 ,from this great trunk run out branches and connections by steamer in all directions--reaching to all big towns of the country1 most of the small ones1 and all the districts famed in ,scottish song or history1 the highlands1 the lochs1 the seaboard1 etc4 ,the road is a model road and one of the best appointed in ,great ,britain4 ,the tourist1 the student and the sportsman are offered strong inducements to avail themselves of the tours arranged by the ,caledonian company4 ,,the ,,northwestern ,,railway4 ,one of the largest ,english railway systems is that of the ,london ,northwestern4 ,the territory covered by this railway extends from ,london in the south to ,carlisle in the north1 and from ,cambridge in the east to ,holyhead in the west--an area of three hundred miles in breadth4 ,the main office of the government is in ,london1 but the capital1 so to speak1 is ,crewe1 a town of thirty-five thousand inhabitants consisting entirely of the employees of the railway and their families4 ,the total number in the railway's service does not fall far short of sixty thousand4 ,the annual budget amounts to ten million pounds1 while the funded debt has reached a total of one hundred million pounds sterling4 ,the ,london and ,northwestern shops at ,crewe have to keep in repair a stock of engines that is worth five million pounds sterling1 and while they do not indeed put a girdle round the earth every forty minutes1 they do literally every four hours1 and in doing so the engines consume a million tons of coal per annum4 ,on an average1 it is reckoned that every five days an old engine is withdrawn and replaced by a new one4 ,of late years the company has been experimenting on an extensive scale with a system of metallic permanent way4 ,steel 8keys0 fasten the rails into steel 8chairs10 which in their turn are riveted down to steel sleepers4 ,about thirty miles of line has been laid on this system1 with about sixty thousand sleepers4 ,so far the results are understood to be satisfactory4 ,the question involved in the conflict between steel and wooden sleepers is gigantic4 ,a rough calculation shows that to replace the wooden sleepers on existing lines in ,great ,britain only would require about four million tons of steel1 without reckoning the weight of the chairs and keys4 ,and great ,britain has only one-fifteenth of the railway mileage of the world4 ,in some ways the goods traffic arrangements of the road at ,liverpool are even more remarkable than those in ,london4 ,at ,liverpool the ,northwestern has six goods stations1 two of them reached by tunnels each a mile and a quarter in length1 constructed for their use alone4 ,one of these stations1 ,edgehill1 is called a goods 8yard10 but this yard contains fifty-seven and a half miles of land1 covers two hundred acres of ground1 and has cost about two million pounds sterling--nearly ten millions of dollars4 ,the conductors on the ,new ,york street cars1 like the ,new ,york policemen1 are sullen and sour2 they seem ill-tempered1 if not ill-natured4 ,you seldom or never see a smile on their lips1 and as for giving utterance to the common and easy phrase1 8thank you10 when they receive a fare1 they wouldn't be guilty of such a piece of politeness2 not they4 ,it is different in ,england1 on the ,continent1 everywhere in ,europe4 ,whether on a steam road1 a steamboat1 a tram or an omnibus1 no officer nor conductor would think of receiving a fare without thanking a passenger audibly1 and even when an officer opens the door or looks into the window of a carriage for the purpose of examining tickets1 you will not hear the short1 sharp1 curt demand1 8tickets10 as in the ,states1 but 8all tickets1 please10 in a pleasant and agreeable tone4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,an ,,hour ,,with ,,spurgeon4 ,,london1 ,october #a1 #ahij4 ,the ,rev4 ,c4 ,h4 ,spurgeon still draws crowds to his tabernacle1 which is situated in a part of ,london called ,newington ,butts4 ,it is by no means a fashionable district1 being in the ,southeast end of the city4 ,you tell any 8cabby0 to drive you to ,spurgeon's church and he will put you down at the door4 ,but it is only a twenty minutes' ride on a 'bus from ,charing ,cross2 fare four cents4 ,that ,mr4 ,spurgeon attracts great throngs of hearers1 every one knows1 but here are a few figures3 ,his tabernacle accommodates between six and seven thousand people1 and on ,sunday morning1 ,september #bh1 when the writer was present1 five thousand four hundred people listened to him4 ,this was in ,september1 be it remembered1 when everybody is out of town and 8,london is empty40 ,the regular members and attendants ascend the stone steps and enter the church through the front door2 strangers and visitors get in by a side entrance1 through an alleyway1 and as they pass in1 a tiny paper envelope is handed to each person4 ,you drop into the envelope as much or as little coin as you please 7for no human eye is watching you7 and this envelope you in turn drop into an open box on your left1 this method probably taking the place of a collection1 which would be so difficult to manage where five or six thousand people have to be approached4 ,people sometimes ask what is the secret of this preacher's distinguished success8 ,the foundation of his success is his earnestness and evident sincerity4 ,he impresses his hearers with the belief that he believes what he is preaching4 ,he does not seem to be making a profession or business of religion4 ,there is nothing perfunctory in his manner2 he rejoices in his calling4 ,then again ,spurgeon is a good and effective speaker4 ,he talks in a slow1 deliberate way1 his enunciation being clear and his pronunciation perfect4 ,each word is distinct and clean cut4 ,his accent is cosmopolitan2 there is nothing local in it4 ,except for the pronunciation of a few words1 such for instance1 as the word 8after10 to which ,mr4 ,spurgeon gives the broad sound heard in ,england1 you might be puzzled to know whether the great divine was born 8within the sound of ,bow ,bells0 or graduated from ,columbia ,college4 ,his language hypercritical people might not call choice1 but ,i beg to differ with them2 it is exceedingly choice1 being directly to the point1 and like the man himself1 simple and strong4 ,there is no searching for fine phrases and well-rounded periods4 ,his ideas flow freely and they quickly find expression3 there is no effect aimed at4 ,the man trusts to the matter of his discourse1 never troubling himself about his manner4 ,his gesticulations are few1 natural and not at all dramatic4 ,he will raise his right hand or occasionally take a step towards a small table hard by3 nothing more4 ,his voice is not musical1 nor is it especially pleasing to a stranger's ear2 but it is firm1 clear and penetrating1 possessing those qualities most demanded in a public speaker4 ,on the morning of which ,i write ,mr4 ,spurgeon took his text from ,psalm #fc1 #gth verse1 and held his hearers spell-bound for about forty minutes by his brilliant illustrations1 his convincing arguments and his earnestness1 for above and beyond all he is deeply in earnest4 ,his prayer is beautiful2 he touches a responsive chord in every heart in his fervent appeals to ,god for mercy and help4 ,before the sermon there was singing of psalms and hymns4 ,mr4 ,spurgeon gave out hymn ,no4 #iaf1 8,going to ,worship40 ,it was congregational singing1 without instrumental music1 one man near the pulpit acting as a sort of leader4 ,the singing was too slow for the preacher4 ,after the second verse he called aloud to the congregation to sing faster1 himself beating time with his right hand4 ,psalm #cd was next given out1 but when the first verse had been sung ,mr4 ,spurgeon stopped the singing abruptly and said in a tone which was meant to be commanding3 8,i must beg that if you sing at all1 you sing faster3 there's more heart in it if you sing quicker4 ,praise ,god as if you meant it2 put your soul in the words3 it will be more welcome if there's spirit in it40 ,mr4 ,spurgeon's deacons1 about twelve in all1 are seated on two rows of seats behind him1 he and they occupying a high platform and prominent place--probably fifteen feet above the floor of the church1 where all can get a good view of the man's features--all except the deacons4 ,the great preacher is now in his fifty-sixth year4 ,like his character and his language1 physically he looks strong and rugged1 but his health is not good4 ,mr4 ,spurgeon belongs to a family of gospel ministers4 ,his grandfather was an ,english divine2 his father1 ,rev4 ,james ,archer ,spurgeon1 still living1 now occupies1 or did occupy until very recently1 a pulpit in ,london2 and he has two sons who follow his profession--one at ,greenwich1 near ,london1 and one at ,auckland1 ,new ,zealand4 99 99 99 99 99 ,p4 ,s4--,mr4 ,spurgeon died at ,mentone1 ,france1 on ,sunday1 ,january #ba1 #ahib1 deeply regretted by all who had ever heard him or heard of him4 ,illustration ,,the ,,crypt ,,of ,,st4 ,,paul',s4 ,all ,americans who go to ,london visit ,westminster ,abbey1 and some of them make more than one visit4 ,there is a rare charm about the grand old pile4 ,i never go to ,london without visiting the ,abbey1 and this was also the custom of the late ,aaron ,j4 ,vanderpoel1 with whom ,i had the honor of crossing once or twice4 ,on one voyage westward1 a fellow passenger was ,james ,r4 ,cuming1 of the famous law firm of ,vanderpoel1 ,cuming and ,goodwin4 ,mr4 ,cuming and ,i were fellow students in the old law firm of ,brown1 ,hall and ,vanderpoel in the days of ,district ,attorney ,blunt1 never-mind-how-many years ago4 ,mr4 ,cuming's hair is now tinged with gray1 but he has the same genial1 agreeable qualities1 and he is just as modest1 eminent and successful lawyer though he now is1 as he was when he and ,i were boys together in the ,broadway ,bank building on the corner of ,broadway and ,park place4 ,but none of this personal matter has aught to do with the subject in hand4 ,i was about to say that while all ,americans go to ,westminster ,abbey to see the monuments and other interesting things1 all of them do not know that two of ,england's greatest men1 their most renowned heroes of modern times1 are buried in ,st4 ,paul's ,cathedral--,lord ,nelson and the ,duke of ,wellington4 ,one reason why ,american and other tourists who visit ,st4 ,paul's seldom see the tombs of these great men is because they do not know that the cathedral contains them4 ,the tombs are in the crypt1 and unless you knock on the great iron gates leading to the crypt and pay a sixpence1 you cannot obtain admission4 ,but besides the tombs of these two celebrities1 a number of other eminent ,englishmen lie buried in the cathedral4 ,among the monuments 7over their tombs7 may be read the names of ,general ,gordon1 ,admiral ,napier1 ,sir ,christopher ,wren1 the architect1 and the famous artists1 ,sir ,joshua ,reynolds and ,j4 ,w4 ,m4 ,turner--in fact1 as there is a ,poet's corner in ,westminster ,abbey1 so there is a ,painter's ,corner in ,st4 ,paul's ,cathedral4 ,nelson's remains are covered by a great sarcophagus of black marble1 which was intended for the tomb of ,cardinal ,wolsey4 ,the ,duke of ,wellington is buried in a sarcophagus of porphyry1 of which the upper part1 forming the lid1 alone weighs seventeen tons4 ,a visit to ,st4 ,paul's discovers many other interesting things1 and it is the opinion of the writer that it is one of the three grandest public buildings of modern times1 the other two being the ,capitol in ,washington and the ,palais de ,justice in ,brussels4 ,the cathedral itself has an interesting history4 ,the first ,st4 ,paul's ,cathedral was built by ,ethelbert of ,kent1 in the year #faj4 ,it is said to have been destroyed by fire in #ifa1 rebuilt and again destroyed by fire in #ajhf1 rebuilt again and for the third time destroyed by fire in #afff4 ,the present structure was built by ,sir ,christopher ,wren and took thirty-five years to complete1 being finished in #agaj1 at a cost of something like #gdg1ied sterling--nearly four millions of dollars4 ,it covers more than two acres of ground4 ,the height from the pavement to the top of the cross is three hundred and sixty-four feet three inches4 ,you get a good view of the building from the ,thames4 ,the best view of the building1 however1 is from the top of an omnibus going east down ,fleet street1 but this view is now somewhat marred or obstructed by the railway arch which crosses ,ludgate ,circus4 ,a few figures about the bell and the clock may not be without interest4 ,the former1 called ,great ,paul1 weighs sixteen tons1 fourteen hundredweight1 two quarters1 nineteen pounds2 height1 eight feet ten inches2 diameter at base1 nine feet six and a half inches2 thickness where the clapper strikes1 eighteen and three-quarter inches4 ,the clapper is seven feet nine inches long and weighs four hundredweight4 ,the note is ,e flat4 ,the clock has two faces1 each nearly twenty feet in diameter4 ,the minute hand is nine feet eight inches long and weighs seventy-five pounds2 the hour hand is five feet nine inches long and weighs forty-four pounds4 ,the hour figures are two feet1 two and a half inches long4 ,the pendulum is sixteen feet long and to it is attached a weight of one hundred and eight pounds4 ,it beats once in two seconds4 ,illustration ,,the ,,queen',s ,,mews4 ,windsor1 the royal residence1 twenty-five miles from ,london1 attracts of course many ,american visitors1 its features of interest including1 besides the castle and park1 the celebrated stables4 ,but as for stables1 the ,queen's ,mews1 near the centre of ,london1 offer a much more brilliant show4 ,admission is gained with little difficulty or formality--by ,americans4 ,you simply call at the ,american ,legation in ,victoria street1 two or three blocks 7as we'd say in ,new ,york71 from the ,victoria railway station--a 8penny 'bus0 from ,charing ,cross passes the door4 ,it is not necessary to ask for ,minister ,lincoln2 your card sent to ,mr4 ,white1 the secretary of the legation1 or1 in his absence1 to ,mr4 ,mc,cormick1 the courteous assistant secretary1 will secure you in return the necessary pasteboard for yourself and party to visit the ,queen's ,mews in ,buckingham ,palace road--a very short walk from the legation and a stone's throw1 so to speak1 from ,victoria station4 ,the stables cover a few acres of ground4 ,they contain the royal harness1 the carriage of state and other carriages1 and have stalls for about one hundred horses1 in the care of all of which about thirty or forty men are employed1 those longest in the service being privileged to live on the premises4 ,there is nothing very remarkable about the horses' quarters2 the stalls are not more luxurious nor are they kept in better condition than many private gentlemen's stables in ,new ,york and ,newport1 nor are the horses particularly worthy of note1 excepting the ten large black stallions and eight cream-colored stallions1 used in drawing the state carriage on state occasions1 as1 for instance1 when the ,queen opens parliament4 ,the tails of these stallions1 the blacks and cream-colored1 all reach to and almost sweep the ground1 with the exception of one big black animal1 whose brevity of appendage is made up on state occasions by the addition of a false tail4 ,the harness for ordinary use is of black leather with elaborate bright brass trimmings1 that for state occasions is also of black leather1 the crowns and coats-of-arms1 in solid metal1 being heavily and richly gilded4 ,the harness is kept in perfect condition1 and kept on show1 protected by glass doors and windows4 ,you may see and admire the royal reins1 but they are not to be handled by common fingers4 ,among the carriages there is one kept for its past history and glory1 not for present use--a gaudy1 gilded1 theatrical-looking vehicle1 the weight of which is four tons1 the great1 heavily-tired wheels of which measure six feet in diameter1 the whole being of the respectable age of one hundred and thirty years4 ,the most beautiful feature of this curious relic of by-gone days is the eight pictures set in as many panels1 painted by ,cipriani1 an ,italian artist famous in his day4 ,but the carriages for ,her ,majesty's ordinary use and the carriage which is reserved for state occasions1 which is drawn by the eight cream horses1 are models of comfort1 luxury and beauty4 ,they are upholstered with dark blue cloth1 the only interior ornaments being of worsted fringe matching the cloth in color4 ,the wheels and body are dark blue1 the panels being painted in a lighter shade1 the centre of each door panel relieved by the royal crest of arms painted in rich colors1 but not larger in size than a silver dollar4 ,the carriages are hung on ,c springs and yield from any point to the slightest touch4 ,i ventured the remark to one of the footmen in charge that when ,her ,majesty places her foot on the step her weight must make quite a depression of the springs4 8,does it10 said the royal flunky2 8you should stand 'ere when the ,duchess of ,teck gets in4 ,the ,queen's cousin is a werry heavy woman1 ,god bless her4 ,if you was to see her get in you would see a depression1 or whatever you call it40 ,you will make a mistake if on leaving the ,mews you do not drop a shilling into the ready palm of both coachman and footman4 ,illustration ,a ,,question ,,of ,,hats4 ,americans treat women better both at home and abroad than they are treated elsewhere1 and they certainly show the sex more deference and respect in public and private than women are accustomed to receive in many older countries4 ,an ,american seldom addresses one of the gentler sex with his head covered1 unless it is in the open air2 and while this is also the custom in some ,european countries--in ,france and ,switzerland1 for instance--it is not nearly so common in ,germany or ,great ,britain4 ,englishmen with whom ,i have talked do not seem to notice such things1 but ,i know from long and careful observation1 that men in ,london sit with their heads covered during the whole of a theatrical performance4 ,they occupy seats in 8the pit10 to be sure1 but 8the pit0 in ,london is compared by some with the back rows of the parquette in ,american theatres4 ,should this meet the eye of a barrister1 he might charge me with being too general in my remarks4 ,if he demands1 in his 8answer0 to this 8complaint10 a 8bill of particulars10 ,i will mention1 among places where ,i saw men sit covered during the whole evening1 the ,savoy ,theatre1 when 8,the ,gondoliers0 was played1 and the ,shaftesbury ,theatre1 where ,willard performed in 8,judah0 in ,september1 #ahij4 ,at a ,covent ,garden concert in the same year1 ,i saw four or five hundred persons on the floor 7men and women7 and not more than six men carried their hats in their hands4 ,i remember remarking at the time that one-third of the number of hats were of silk plush 78top hats071 one-third were derbys of a brownish hue1 the other third were mixed--all sorts4 ,even in the dress circle at a ,covent ,garden concert some men wear their hats the whole evening--white hats1 derbys1 and heavy silk hats--and this in warm weather1 too4 ,it no doubt is the custom2 at any rate such was the case on a certain 8,american night0 7summer of #ahij7 when ,american airs were played1 ,mrs4 ,alice ,shaw1 the beautiful whistler1 being the special attraction among the solo performers4 ,and when men at ,london theatres do remove their hats1 they seem to do it reluctantly4 ,they will enter a theatre and enter a box1 remove their overcoat and gloves1 take out opera glass1 and spread the play bill before them1 and then1 as a last thought1 if they think about it at all1 the hat will be slowly removed2 they seem to be unwilling to part with it4 ,how different in ,american theatres1 where every man quickly doffs his hat the moment he enters the door of the auditorium4 ,it is all the more noticeable in ,london theatres because the women are obliged to remove their hats before entering1 and excepting at the ,lyceum1 the ,savoy1 and possibly one or two other houses1 they are obliged to pay for their care4 ,at third and second-class ,london restaurants1 men wear their hats as do people of the same class elsewhere1 but some men in ,england not only carry their hats into the dining-room of a first-class hotel1 but carry them on their heads until they take their seats2 the presence of women makes no difference4 ,the editor of the ,new ,york ,press says3 8,there is no surer test of a nation's sense of courtesy than its treatment of women4 ,judged by this standard1 the people of the ,united ,states stand above those of any other nation on the face of the globe40 ,,london ,,oddities4 ,it serves the purpose of correspondents as well as of the postal authorities to add the postal district initials in addressing letters to ,london--as for instance1 ,c41 indicating central1 or ,s4 ,w41 ,southwest4 ,there are eight of these districts1 and the necessity for adding the initials will be seen when one learns that in ,london there are no less than thirty-five ,king streets1 thirty ,queen streets1 eighteen ,york streets1 a ,victoria ,park in the extreme east1 one ,queen ,victoria street1 a ,victoria railway station in the ,southwestern district1 a ,hotel ,victoria in the western central and a ,victoria ,hotel in quite another district4 ,the postal system in ,london is as near perfection as it is possible to make it4 ,few letters go astray1 and the delivery is prompt1 there being from six to twelve deliveries daily2 but by neglecting to add the initial letter of the district a letter may be delayed several hours4 ,there are three thousand offices and pillar boxes in ,london1 but in addressing letters take care and take into consideration that there are nearly six millions of people in ,london1 that the streets and squares cover eight thousand acres1 and within a radius of fifteen miles of ,charing ,cross seven hundred square miles are covered4 ,correspondence between ,england and the ,united ,states also shows wonderful increase4 ,ten years ago the number of letters which annually passed between the two countries was eight millions2 at present the number is twenty-four millions4 ,reduction of postage rates has of course had something to do with this great increase and it will bear further reduction4 ,i happened to be near ,euston station and wanted to go to my hotel in ,northumberland avenue4 ,i stepped into a hansom1 and not wishing to be taken for a stranger ,i simply said 8,victoria ,hotel40 ,in five minutes ,mr4 ,cabbie pulled up in front of what seemed to be a gin palace1 bearing the sign plain enough1 8,victoria ,hotel40 8,i want the hotel in ,northumberland avenue10 ,i said to the driver4 8,then why didn't you say ,hotel ,victoria10 was the sharp response1 and cabbie charged me a fare and a half to emphasize the distinction4 ,the growth of ,london is something marvelous4 ,more than ten thousand houses annually1 or1 it may be roughly stated1 one thousand houses every month1 are added to ,london4 ,in ,august of #ahhi1 #ged1dfd houses were supplied with water by the water companies1 or #aa1aac below the number in the same month of #ahij4 ,in ,september1 #ahij1 the companies had to supply #aj1igf houses more than in ,september of #ahhi4 ,in ,august of that year #gfe1egg houses were supplied with water1 and in ,september1 #ahia1 that number had increased to #gff1gig4 ,the ,london police are a pleasant1 polite set of men1 and if they do not refuse the price of a pint of beer for a slight service1 neither will they refuse to answer any question1 respectfully and satisfactorily4 ,the contrast is very striking between these good-tempered1 obliging officers1 and the sullen1 saucy1 sour-visaged1 tobacco-chewing ,new ,york policeman who is just as ready to answer with his club1 which he carries exposed1 as he is with his uncivil tongue4 ,london policemen are paid from six to seven and a half dollars per week3 ,new ,york policemen from sixteen to twenty-four dollars weekly4 ,a ,london police sergeant gets only ten dollars a week4 ,,sixpence ,,for ,a ,,play ,,bill4--,at the ,prince of ,wales ,theatre and at the ,shaftesbury you are charged sixpence for a bill of the play1 and at the majority of ,london theatres you pay for a programme4 ,the exceptions are ,irving's ,lyceum and ,d',oyly ,carte's ,savoy1 where no employee is allowed to accept a fee of any kind--not if the manager knows it4 ,that does not say1 however1 that a 8tip0 for a programme is unexpected1 even at the two houses named4 ,,civility ,,and ,,servility4--,there's a difference between civility and servility4 ,you are pleased to have an omnibus conductor audibly 8thank you0 when you hand him your fare1 but in the ,london shops a saleswoman will do the same thing even when you make no purchase4 ,at the pleasant ,nayland ,rock ,hotel in ,margate1 on the south coast of ,england1 a waiter will thank you for allowing him to put a clean plate before you1 or when he hands you a glass of water--if you can get such a thing as water at your meals in an ,english hotel4 ,it is not obtainable without a little trouble2 everybody drinks wine4 ,,soot1 ,,soot1 ,,everywhere4--,owing to the use of soft coal in ,london1 white buildings are soon changed into black ones1 partially4 ,this change1 especially where one side of a set of ,corinthian columns1 for instance1 remains the original color1 and the other side has gradually turned very dark1 gives some of the churches and public buildings a picturesque and pleasing appearance4 ,yellow brick is very largely used1 but it soon changes color4 ,if you place a tumbler of water outside your window at night with the idea of keeping it cool1 for you rarely see a piece of ice1 you will find a number of tiny globules of soot floating on the surface of the water in the morning4 ,and it is exceedingly difficult in ,london to make weather prognostications1 the sun being usually hidden or half-hidden by ,london smoke1 if not by fog4 ,,exchanging ,,compliments4--,englishmen say 8as drunk as a ,scotchman10 and ,scotchmen have a saying 8as durr as an ,englishman40 8,durr0 implies something more than quiet3 it means surly1 sullen4 ,it cannot be denied that ,english tourists are unusually quiet3 they seldom speak without having been formally introduced4 ,that reminds me that two or three years ago ,i was traveling on the ,midland road from ,london to ,liverpool1 and ,i happened to make some casual remark to a fellow traveler who was a stranger to me4 ,the gentleman replied very briefly but courteously1 and then added3 8,beg pardon1 you hail from the other side1 do you not80 8,yes1 but why do you ask80 8,if ,i didn't detect it in your accent10 said my neighbor1 8,i should know it because you addressed me4 ,i have been traveling between ,london and ,liverpool now for many years1 and ,i am never spoken to but by an ,american1 and ,i rather like it40 ,there are no 8cross-walks10 as we call them1 in the cities of ,great ,britain2 none are needed4 ,nor does anybody cross the street at right angles1 as we do in ,new ,york4 ,everybody crosses diagonally1 from corner to corner1 or crosses in the middle of the block4 ,the road-ways are so smooth and well paved that all parts are alike1 and it is never necessary to pick your way4 ,in ,new ,york1 besides exercising great vigilance to prevent being knocked down and run over by vehicles1 you must always keep one eye on the ground while crossing4 ,you may be upset by a car track1 or you may step between two stone blocks that are a foot apart1 more or less4 ,,as ,,to ,,oysters4--,english oysters still retain their flavor1 a great deal of flavor2 in fact they have entirely too much--that is to say1 too much for anybody whose palate is not accustomed to the peculiar taste4 ,you can get oysters as low as a shilling a dozen1 but choice 8,whitstables10 that have a strong1 coppery flavor1 come as high as four shillings a dozen4 ,for the uneducated ,american palate1 ,chesapeake oysters1 or the ,great ,south ,bay blue points are good enough4 ,,servants' ,,wages4--,servant girls' wages in ,england are not nearly so high as they are in the ,united ,states4 ,even hotel chambermaids1 who are paid better than family servants1 only receive fourteen pounds sterling a year--about ninety dollars1 but each one is allowed a fortnight's holiday 7with pay7 at the end of the summer4 ,and the 8tips0 they receive from the guests are well worth consideration4 ,there are differences between the habits of ,london and ,new ,york women and here is one of the minor points3 ,new ,york women go 8shopping10 that is to say they go into one store after another to examine the goods1 as a diversion or pastime2 ,english women never enter a shop without the intention to purchase2 they make a business and not a pastime of replenishing their wardrobe4 ,to go on a shopping tour ,american women often wear fine gowns and rich jewelry2 ,english women on the contrary1 dress very plainly when engaged in their business of purchasing4 ,they reserve their fine clothes for the opera or for receptions1 wearing no extra finery even for ordinary visiting4 ,they are not seen parading the streets in silks and satins1 and that is why some ,american writers who do not observe closely say that 8,english women in the street dress in dowdy style40 ,,no 8,,foreladies0 ,,in ,,london4--,at the great dry-goods house and outfitting establishment of ,debenham ,freebody1 in ,wigmore street1 not far from the ,langham ,hotel1 all the saleswomen are expected1 nay1 are obliged to dress in black4 ,they number two hundred1 but not a 8saleslady0 nor a 8forelady0 among them4 ,they make derision of these terms1 which are so commonly heard in ,new ,york4 ,the firm also employs six or seven hundred young men4 ,all the unmarried employees live on the premises1 and this plan is found to operate satisfactorily to all concerned4 ,the young men wear black coat1 waistcoat and necktie4 ,many years ago salesmen in ,london dry-goods houses were not allowed to wear a moustache1 but there is more liberty now and they can adorn their faces as fancy dictates4 ,you don't hear the words1 corsets1 dresses nor pounds1 in ,london shops of the first class1 such as ,kate ,reily's1 ,debenham ,freebody's or ,redfern's4 ,they have gone back to the old-fashioned term--stays1 gowns and guineas4 ,english merchants favor the last term because a guinea is worth a shilling more than a pound4 ,,customs ,,in ,,art ,,galleries ,,abroad ,,and ,,at ,,home4--,the ,english ,national ,gallery1 in ,trafalgar square1 ,london1 like our ,metropolitan ,museum of ,art and like nearly all galleries in different parts of the world1 is only open free on certain days of the week1 while the great ,french collection at the ,louvre1 in ,paris 7probably the largest and most valuable collection of pictures under one roof7 is always free1 and may be visited without application to any circumlocution office4 ,the ,louvre is open six days of every week in the year2 only on ,mondays are the public not admitted1 the officers reserving ,monday for repairs and cleaning4 ,in nearly all of the public galleries of ,europe1 as in the ,corcoran gallery in ,washington1 you are obliged to leave your umbrella or walking stick in charge of an official at the door and for the care of such an article a fee is charged in some places2 at the ,louvre you may carry into the galleries as many umbrellas and bundles as you please4 ,this is not always an advantage3 for my part ,i am only too glad to be relieved of my umbrella and overcoat on such occasions4 ,it seems strange that men while viewing pictures in the foreign galleries should persist in wearing their hats--it seems strange to a ,new ,yorker2 the custom being so different at our ,academy of ,design4 ,,poverty ,,and ,,charity ,,in ,,england4 ,the drinking habit among men and among women and girls still remains the curse of ,great ,britain1 and its companion1 poverty1 is everywhere4 ,but if the poverty is striking and awful to behold1 its next-door neighbor1 charity1 ,god be praised1 aims to keep pace with it4 ,hospitals and other philanthropic institutions supported by voluntary contributions1 are to be seen almost wherever the eye turns in the ,united ,kingdom4 ,the patriotic and other public funds1 to meet special emergencies at home and abroad1 may well challenge the world's admiration1 not only for the princely amounts subscribed1 but also for the hearty and expeditious way in which the funds are raised4 ,the charitable institutions of the city of ,london number upwards of one thousand1 and simply of asylums for the aged 7colleges1 hospitals and almshouses71 there are one hundred and twenty distinct institutions4 ,but to return to the drinking habit1 which presents itself before you constantly3 ,i was riding up to ,london from ,margate with a hotel-keeper1 at whose house1 on the edge of the surf1 ,i had been staying for a week1 and ,i remarked that the drinking water at ,margate was of good quality4 8,is it80 said ,mr4 ,knaggs1 for this is the name of the agreeable gentleman who presided for three years over the destinies of the ,nayland ,rock ,hotel4 8,is it80 said mine host4 8,well1 you know more about it than ,i do1 for ,i've never tasted it40 ,on ,sunday1 while at dinner at ,philp's ,cockburn ,hotel1 ,edinburgh1 just before dessert was served1 a small box was passed around the table by a waiter and into it people were dropping sixpences1 shillings and pieces of higher denomination4 ,at once it occurred to me1 here's another overcharge or extra ,i had not counted on1 and ,i began inwardly to rebel4 8,what's this for80 ,i blurted out in a rather injured tone4 8,collection for the ,orphan ,school1 sir10 and ,i gladly added my mite4 ,afterwards ,i saw money boxes in hotels and restaurants in other parts of ,scotland and in ,england labelled1 for example1 8,for ,charing ,cross ,hospital2 funds urgently needed10 etc4 ,little boys and young women go about the busy and better parts of ,london on ,sundays with boxes in their hands1 begging you to 8drop a penny in0 for this charity or that--and you find it very hard1 indeed1 in ,london to keep any coppers in your pocket1 so strong are the appeals4 ,on hospital days the number of hospital boxes is largely increased temporarily4 ,at this time sheets are spread in churchyards1 into which people throw their spare change liberally4 8,the ,people's ,palace10 which was opened by the ,queen in jubilee year1 is a noble illustration of the charitable ,english heart4 ,the 8,people's ,palace0 is situated in one of the poorer quarters of ,london1 and1 as everybody knows1 is the realization of an ideal conception of ,walter ,besant in his novel1 8,all ,sorts and ,conditions of ,men40 ,the palace includes a well-stocked library2 a reading-room1 supplied with papers from all parts of the world2 a large swimming bath and a hall for musical and literary entertainments4 ,in the basement of one of the main buildings boys are taught trades by which they may earn their living4 ,that the recipients of all this good may not feel that they are objects of cold charity1 a slight charge per month is made for those who use the reading-room1 library1 swimming bath1 etc41 and there is a nominal charge1 about four cents each person1 for admission to the concerts and lectures1 which are given gratuitously by musicians and lecturers of celebrity4 ,i visited that part of the ,whitechapel neighborhood which 8,jack the ,ripper0 made infamous as the scene of his murders4 ,it was a vile place three years ago1 but the scene has been changed as if by a fairy hand4 ,the ,baroness ,rothschild opened wide her heart and purse and erected here1 for the poor of this unfortunate quarter1 blocks of modern model tenements4 ,these she lets at very low rents1 asking only three per cent4 return for her investment4 ,in connection with the tenements the noble woman has built a well-appointed 8,club and ,library10 with billiard-room1 etc41 for the amusement of her tenants4 ,these premises are in charge of a custodian and his wife1 who are paid for their services by the ,baroness2 and for the use of the 8,club and ,library0 a merely nominal charge is made to any of the tenants who avail themselves of the privilege4 ,it is not sectarian4 ,in ,england they believe in 8,faith1 ,hope and ,charity10 and of these three that 8the greatest is ,charity40 ,illustration ,,where ,,is ,,charing ,,cross8 ,you hear a great deal about ,charing ,cross in ,london1 but you may look in vain for a street sign bearing that name4 ,very few people in ,london know exactly where it is1 nor does even the policeman on the 8beat0 know4 ,strange to say1 neither the ,charing ,cross ,hospital1 the ,charing ,cross ,station1 nor the ,charing ,cross ,hotel is in ,charing ,cross4 ,much as it is talked about1 it is a very short street1 extending easterly only from ,cockspur street1 then southerly1 past the equestrian statue of ,charles ,i4 to ,scotland ,yard or ,whitehall4 ,low's ,exchange is in ,charing ,cross1 and within two or three hundred feet of that spot 7,no4 #eg71 is the very centre of the city of ,london4 ,from this spot cab fares are reckoned4 ,start from here and you can ride anywhere1 within a radius of two miles1 for one shilling4 ,low's ,exchange1 by the way1 is a very popular rendezvous in ,london for ,americans4 ,it is where they 8most congregate10 and it offers many conveniences for travellers4 ,if you are traveling on the other side make this your headquarters4 ,telegrams1 letters1 and even printed matter are forwarded to you with the utmost promptness4 ,a special work of the house is the securing of state rooms on board steamers4 ,it saves you much worry and bother1 and the service of this agency costs you nothing1 ,mr4 ,low getting his pay from the steamship companies4 ,edwin ,h4 ,low served his apprenticeship1 as it were1 to this business1 in the office of the ,national ,steamship ,company in ,new ,york1 many years ago1 and since then he has had large experience4 ,the headquarters of the concern are at #idg ,broadway1 and ,mr4 ,low may be seen sometimes at his ,new ,york house1 at other times in ,london1 but there is a very capable man who acts as general manager for ,mr4 ,low in ,charing ,cross--,mr4 ,george ,glanvill1 who served ,mr4 ,gillig for many years at the ,american ,exchange1 #ddi ,strand4 ,by all means register at ,low's4 ,,margate1 ,,an ,,english ,,watering ,,place4 ,i was ill in ,london1 at the ,windsor ,hotel in the summer of #ahij1 and as my friend ,dr4 ,walter ,m4 ,fleming of ,new ,york happened to be in ,london at the time1 at the ,savoy ,hotel1 ,i sent for him4 ,the fact is that ,i had been receiving too much 8attention0 from my friends--dinners1 drives1 concerts1 theatres1 suppers1 etc41 all of which resulted in physical and nervous exhaustion4 ,dr4 ,fleming's prescription was simple--8rest and a change of air10 but as this was ,dr4 ,fleming's first visit to ,england1 ,i began to question my friends and others as to the best pharmacy at which to have the prescription filled4 ,the proprietor of the ,windsor ,hotel1 ,mr4 ,j4 ,r4 ,cleave1 said 8,margate20 so1 too1 said the intelligent manager of the house1 ,mr4 ,mann4 ,an old and trusted friend wrote me1 8,don't go to ,margate1 go to ,brighton or to ,hastings40 ,thus opinions differed4 ,i knew all about ,brighton and wanted to see a place new to me4 ,i was much inclined to go to ,hastings1 but a consensus of opinion prevailed in favor of ,margate4 8,there's a beautiful air at ,margate10 is the response of everyone in ,england to whom you speak of that place1 from the boys at ,low's exchange in ,charing ,cross to ,mr4 ,richard ,whiteing1 editor of the ,london ,daily ,news4 ,this remark was also made to me by ,major ,arthur ,griffiths1 an ,english author and litterateur1 who is known and esteemed on both sides of the ,atlantic4 ,so to ,margate ,i went4 ,margate is on the south coast of ,england1 seventy-five miles from ,london1 whence it is reached by the ,london1 ,chatham and ,dover ,railway4 ,this is the road celebrated for the beautiful rural scenery that borders it2 it passes through the prettiest parts of ,kent1 8the garden of ,england10 through ,rochester and ,canterbury1 famous for their cathedrals1 and other places of historic and scenic interest4 ,you may also reach ,margate by steamer from ,london ,bridge4 ,it is a pleasant sail on the ,thames of ninety-three miles4 ,having arrived at ,margate1 you can make it the starting point for many a delightful excursion4 ,boulogne on the ,french coast1 for instance1 across the channel1 is directly opposite ,margate2 steamer fare round trip1 six shillings--a dollar and a half4 ,other pleasant excursions are made to ,canterbury and to ,ramsgate4 ,to these places run 8pleasure vans0 accommodating twenty persons and the fare ranges from threepence to a shilling1 according to the style of vehicle4 ,if you do not care to patronize the pleasure vans1 you may hire a victoria at two shillings per hour4 ,canterbury is the site of the famous cathedral4 ,at ,ramsgate lived the ,jewish philanthropist1 ,sir ,moses ,montefiore1 for nearly the length of his long and useful life--one hundred years4 ,another interesting excursion is to the old-fashioned village of ,broadstairs1 for many years the home of ,charles ,dickens4 ,the house ,dickens occupied and which he called 8,bleak ,house10 still stands on its commanding site at the top of the cliffs directly overlooking the sea4 ,a description of ,bleak ,house1 with illustration1 appeared in the ,home ,journal in ,january1 #ahia1 and has been widely copied in this country as well as in ,england4 ,broadstairs is only a five-mile drive from ,margate1 fare by victoria four shillings4 ,few ,americans who cross the ocean go to ,margate1 but they may spend a couple of days or a couple of weeks there with advantage4 ,margate is a town with a history4 ,its foremost historical feature is the ,church of ,st4 ,john1 built in #ajej4 ,it has seen the rise of ,norman1 ,plantagenet and ,tudor dynasties and still stands1 the oldest of ,england's possessions4 ,in the time of ,queen ,anne1 according to the chronicler1 to be buried in a sheet cost sixpence1 and a shilling was the extravagant price of a coffin1 but the honor of being buried from ,st4 ,john's ,church cost two shillings more6 ,marriage banns were to be had at ,st4 ,john's for three-and-six4 ,modern ,margate is one of ,england's most popular watering-places4 ,there are many pleasant walks and some fine buildings4 ,one of the pleasure resorts is the ocean pier4 ,here1 three times a week1 a large band of picked musicians perform a good programme giving a promenade concert directly over the breakers4 ,it is the boast of the ,britisher that his government is 8parental20 it not only assumes to take charge of the individual1 but it does in many particulars compel him to take care of himself4 ,if1 for instance1 you are caught boarding or leaving a moving train you are fined 8forty shillings0 7ten dollars7--a favorite sum for a fine1 by the way1 is that same forty shillings4 ,the pier at ,margate would seem to be an exception to the rule of safety2 it cannot be called absolutely safe at night4 ,the boat landing below is reached by several flights of wide stairs1 and the lowest flight is open and unguarded1 not only in daytime but also at night4 ,in addition to this the lower part of the pier is not lighted at all1 and it would be the easiest thing in the world on a dark night to walk off by accident into the water4 ,why more accidents and loss of life do not occur is surprising4 ,twopence admits you to the pier1 and it is a popular democratic resort4 ,at night the scene near the pier is a lively one4 ,street restaurateurs1 their barrows ablaze with flambeaux1 line the highway and drive quite a business selling plates of oysters1 mussels1 cockles and snails1 which are more or less tempting4 ,illustration3 ,,margate4 ,if you are fond of sea bathing by all means go to ,margate4 ,there is no high-rolling surf1 but if you are a swimmer you will be all the better pleased4 ,there are no ropes to lay hold of1 none are necessary2 you bathe in perfect safety and comfort1 and1 as at all ,english resorts1 you bathe from a 8machine40 ,in ,america bathing facilities consist of long rows of commodious wooden boxes placed on the beach at some distance from the surf4 ,you purchase a bathing ticket for twenty-five or fifty cents1 the price depending on whether you prefer a woolen to a cotton costume4 ,you receive the suit and the key of your box4 ,then you put your valuables in an envelope sealed by yourself and hand them to the custodian1 who places them in a separate box in an enormous safe1 returning you a check tied to a rubber band1 which latter you pass over your head and wear while bathing4 ,you proceed to your 8house10 as we call it1 disrobe and don your scant suit1 lock your door and walk out and down to the edge of the water1 where1 as fancy dictates1 you loll around on the beach1 talking to your friends1 or you plunge immediately into the breakers only to come out1 dry yourself in the sun1 cut up capers on the sand1 chat or smoke1 repeating the process ad libitum4 ,of course men and women bathe together4 ,not so in ,england4 ,there you bathe from 8machines10 small wooden houses1 five feet square by ten feet high1 mounted on four wheels4 ,they have entrances back and front1 each approached by a low flight of steps4 ,you enter by one door in street costume1 and having disrobed and donned your bathing garments1 you give the signal1 a horse is attached to the 8machine0 which is drawn a short distance into the water4 ,you step down and out1 disport yourself in the water as long as you please and renter your box1 to emerge therefrom once more in everyday habiliments4 ,no lolling about the beach1 no unseemly display of person2 all is conducted in a proper1 staid and exemplary manner--on the beach4 ,and in sooth1 why should you walk around and smoke and chat with your friends on this occasion1 in a costume1 or lack of costume1 which if worn at other times or places would land you in jail for exposure of person8 ,this with reference to the ,american custom or costume4 ,in ,england it is worse in some respects1 for while the women dress as they do here1 the men bathe in a nude state1 so to speak4 ,they wear small trunks or loin cloths only1 and men and women bathe together indiscriminately4 ,notices are posted in prominent places near the beach1 boldly printed and bearing the ,english coat of arms1 to the effect that in the water men and women must remain separate1 and further that you will be fined forty shillings 7of course forty shillings7 if you are found nearer to a female than one hundred yards2 but it is a dead letter law1 and is entirely disregarded4 ,i am not the most prudish man in the world1 but ,i confess to having been shocked4 ,trunks did not suit me2 ,i preferred and obtained a bathing costume which is to be had upon special application4 ,the beach is hard and smooth1 broad and gently sloping4 ,the bluff at ,long ,branch is not to be mentioned1 scarcely1 with the bold1 beautiful white chalk cliffs that rise abruptly and picturesquely from the beach at ,margate to a height of seventy-five feet4 ,along this bluff are miles of grassy1 serpentine walks1 gardens prettily laid out1 dotted with summer houses and bounded by hedges and clover fields--a beautiful1 natural landscape1 artificially enhanced4 ,the favorite bathing place on the beach is managed by ,charlotte ,pettman4 ,it is reached by a 8coast guard0 cutting in the cliff1 an inclined passageway sloping from the road to the beach under the bridge4 ,it is a sort of artificial caon4 ,bathers are charged sixpence each1 8six baths for two-and-six1 twelve for four-and-six40 ,mrs4 ,pettman advertises her baths by a circular which contains the following touching verse1 no doubt assisting trade materially4 8,i pitied the dove1 for my bosom was tender1 ,i pitied the sigh that she gave to the wind2 ,but ,i ne'er shall forget the superlative splendor ,of ,charlotte's sea baths1 the pride of mankind40 ,in his early days of struggle the great ,charles ,dickens1 for a few shillings1 penned these lines as a 8puff0 of ,day ,martin's blacking4 ,so far as the waves are concerned1 the cliff is as solid as it appears to be1 but it has yielded to the hand of man1 and at ,charlotte ,pettman's baths there is a statue sculptured in the cliff1 entitled 8,my first plunge40 ,it is the life-size figure of a young and beautiful girl in bathing costume1 just about to take 8a header0 from the platform4 ,it is by ,priestman1 an ,english artist4 ,the door is opened to art lovers for twopence each1 or as much more as the generously disposed may be inclined to give1 the proceeds being handed over to a local hospital4 ,one of ,margate's architectural features1 as seen in the accompanying illustration1 is its handsome clocktower1 standing in a conspicuous position on the ,marine drive4 ,it was erected in honor of the ,queen's ,jubilee in #ahhg1 and has a musical chime of bells4 ,like ,brighton and some other seaside resorts1 ,margate is democratic in the height of summer1 but select in the autumn4 ,in olden times the season commenced in ,june and continued until ,october4 ,margate offers every inducement to a prolonged season4 ,while ,london is miserable under ,november fogs and humid atmosphere1 ,margate is brilliant with glorious days and bright skies2 fine weather from ,august until ,christmas4 ,americans1 of course1 must flock to the largest hotel4 ,they like size1 and many of them patronize the ,cliftonville ,hotel1 which1 to be sure1 is a large establishment in the most fashionable1 and certainly the most attractive part of the town1 near the grand cliffs1 and overlooking the sea--a splendid site and a beautiful house exteriorly1 but not as well kept as an ,american host might care for it4 ,the ,white ,hart ,hotel1 on the principal street1 is a commercial house1 and has a comfortable appearance from the outside1 but the ,nayland ,rock ,hotel1 not far from the two railway stations1 yet overlooking the sea1 and from the windows of which you may toss a biscuit into the water 7provided you have the biscuit71 is to my knowledge a well-appointed hotel1 with bedrooms as clean and comfortable and dining-room as cheerful as any hotel in the world4 ,the cuisine is of the best4 ,if great variety be absent1 quality is present4 ,the food is choice1 and served in a neat1 tempting and scrupulously clean manner4 ,european hotels1 as a rule1 are kept on the ,european plan2 at the ,nayland ,rock you have your choice4 ,if you choose the ,american plan1 the terms are very low for the accommodation afforded4 ,two dollars and a half a day secures you pleasant room1 three good meals1 lights and service4 ,there are no extras4 ,the wines are of first quality4 ,but ,i almost forgot an important item4 ,i went to ,margate for health and rest2 ,i found both there4 ,after one week ,i returned to ,london 8like a lion refreshed10 and ,i shall always say1 as everybody in ,london says1 8there's a beautiful air at ,margate40 ,,two ,,brighton ,,hotels4 ,the company that owns the ,grand ,hotel and the ,mtropole in ,london1 opened in ,march1 #ahij1 a magnificent house at ,brighton1 on the ,english southern sea coast4 8,magnificent0 is the word4 ,it is built of stone2 it faces the sea2 it has an acre or two at the back laid out in gardens1 tennis courts1 and pretty walks1 after the style of the ,united ,states ,hotel at ,saratoga2 there is a separate building on the grounds for a ball-room1 in this respect resembling the ,grand ,union ,hotel at the same ,american spa2 the elegant drawing-room on the ground floor looks on the ,king's ,road and the ocean2 the library1 which faces the garden1 contains a large and choice selection of books by leading authors1 and in the basement there are ,turkish and ,russian baths fitted up with a luxury and perfection of appointment not equalled in any other hotel4 ,the proprietors have availed themselves of all the latest ideas in the construction and furnishing of hotels1 and nothing that money can supply1 or good taste can suggest1 has been left undone to make the ,mtropole at ,brighton what it is--one of the most beautiful and luxurious hotels in the world4 ,it is said to accommodate six or seven hundred guests4 ,besides this hotel1 and the ,grand and ,mtropole hotels in ,london1 the same company owns another hotel in ,london1 8,the ,first ,avenue10 in ,holborn2 also the ,burlington at ,eastbourne2 the ,royal ,pier ,hotel at ,ryde1 ,isle of ,wight2 the ,mtropole at ,monte ,carlo2 and the ,mtropole at ,cannes--all of them luxurious establishments4 ,brighton attracts visitors the year round2 in fact it is a city of no mean size1 having a permanent population numbering an eighth of a million4 ,it enjoys two seasons--one for the hoi polloi1 which begins in ,june and lasts three months1 and another for the fashionable world1 which begins in ,september and continues till near ,christmas4 ,during the second season the prices at ,brighton are greatly increased4 ,i entered one of the leading hotels one day about lunch time1 and as is my custom before engaging rooms or partaking of a meal at an ,english hotel1 ,i asked3 8,what is the charge for a table d'hte lunch here80 8,two-and-six10 replied the porter4 ,as for seeing the lessee or manager of an ,english hotel1 you can almost as easily secure an audience with the czar of all the ,russias4 ,but to return to my muttons--or to the lunch1 which1 truth to tell1 was good in quality and nicely served4 ,my daughter heard the following conversation between the head waiter and the said porter as we were passing in to the 8coffee-room40 ,quoth the former3--8,how much did you tell these people for lunch80 8,two-and-six10 replied that blue-coated1 gold-embroidered official4 8,that's wrong10 remarked the head waiter1 who almost lost his head as well as his temper4 8,three shillings is the price to strangers10 and three shillings each we had to pay4 ,this reminds me of the old story of the ,englishman who was heard to remark about a man passing1 who had a foreign look3 8',ere's a stranger1 ,bill1 'eave 'arf a brick at 'im40 ,that they call these apartments in ,english hotels 8,coffee ,rooms10 when they never serve in them a cup of coffee after dinner without a separate and extra charge1 is rather exasperating4 ,the porters and officials at some ,english hotels are not1 though it appears as if they were1 in league with the cabmen4 ,if you ask them about rates just before taking a drive they will occasionally mislead you and name a higher rate than the usual or legal one4 ,for instance1 ,i asked the clerk at another hotel in ,brighton1 what was the fare by the hour for a drive in an open cab or victoria holding two persons4 8,four shillings per hour10 quickly responded my misinformant4 ,i knew better1 for this was not my first visit to ,brighton1 but said nothing4 ,to a cabman with a good-looking victoria who stood immediately opposite the hotel entrance ,i popped this question3 8,what will you charge us for an hour's drive along the beach and about the town80 8,two-and-six10 briskly replied cabbie and we drove about the pretty place for a whole hour for the half crown4 ,illustration ,a ,,visit ,,to ,,bleak ,,house4 ,bleak ,house1 the scene of the novel of that name1 is near the village of ,st4 ,albans1 about twenty miles from ,london1 and is described in the early part of the story as an 8old-fashioned house with three peaks in the roof in front and a circular sweep leading to the porch40 ,that there was more than one ,bleak ,house in the mind of ,dickens 8there can be no possible probable manner of doubt10 as ,gilbert sings in 8,the ,gondoliers10 because at the close of the story one of the characters in it is made to say1 8,both houses are your home1 my dear1 but the older ,bleak ,house claims priority40 ,but the 8,bleak ,house0 which was for many years the home of ,charles ,dickens1 and where he wrote many of his novels1 was so named by the author after his famous story4 ,it is located in the old-fashioned village of ,broadstairs1 on the ,north ,sea1 in the county of ,kent1 the garden of ,england1 and is seventy-two miles from ,london1 on the ,london1 ,chatham and ,dover ,railway4 ,the population is given in the latest census as two thousand two hundred and sixty-three4 ,the house was formerly called ,fort ,house1 from its proximity to the ,british fortifications on the coast4 ,it stands directly on the top of the chalk cliffs1 seventy-five feet above the water1 quite alone1 and so near to the edge that from the portico a stone might be easily thrown into the surf--what little surf there is4 ,it ,illustration3 ,,bleak ,,house4 commands a wide view of the ocean4 ,in the southwest it looks toward ,ramsgate1 a seaside pleasure resort1 distant five miles2 in the northeast toward ,kingsgate4 ,the house is appropriately named1 for it is indeed bleak from ,christmas until ,april1 when the cold1 biting northeast winds1 for which these parts are noted1 blow with all their might4 ,it was natural for ,dickens to select such a spot for a residence4 ,if he was not actually fond of the sea1 he certainly had a great liking for the sea-coast1 with which were associated the earliest memories of his childhood4 ,it will be remembered that he was born at ,portsmouth1 a fortified seaport town1 and the principal naval station of ,great ,britain1 about one hundred miles southwest of ,london4 ,dickens lived at ,portsmouth until he arrived at his majority4 ,at ,portsmouth he studied law1 but he found ,blackstone and ,coke rather dry reading1 and so went to ,london where1 as every body knows1 he entered upon his literary career by reporting parliamentary debates for the ,morning ,chronicle4 ,bleak ,house is a plain1 substantial1 compact1 three-story structure of burnt brick4 ,it has grounds of one and a quarter acres in extent1 and the property is what is called in ,england 8freehold20 value1 two thousand seven hundred pounds sterling4 ,a stone wall five feet high1 encloses the house on two sides4 ,one side of the house is a flat1 blank wall1 evidently planned so that an extension could be easily made1 and the lower part of the front is protected by plain iron railings4 ,the entrance is by a low flight of five steps leading up to a portico and doorway supported by ,doric columns4 ,next the doorway1 on the first story1 a semi-circular bay window projects1 and on the second story are two deep windows which open upon a pretty ornamental iron balcony1 having a curved1 sloping roof4 ,a great deal of ivy softens the bareness of the architecture4 ,it climbs up the walls and around the bay windows4 ,dickens was very partial to the ivy plant1 as his lyric1 8,the ,ivy ,green10 testifies4 ,he wrote several lyrics1 but 8,the ,ivy ,green0 which appeared originally in 8,pickwick ,papers0 is the only one that has become familiar4 ,it was first published as a song in the ,united ,states1 and when a ,london publisher wished to reproduce it in ,england1 ,dickens refused the privilege except on the condition that the publisher pay ten guineas to the composer1 ,henry ,russell4 ,dickens was more thoughtful concerning ,henry ,russell's rights than this ,english composer is of the rights of others4 ,i well remember that my predecessor on the ,home ,journal1 the much beloved poet1 ,george ,p4 ,morris1 had a grudge against ,russell1 because ,russell1 in ,england1 claimed to be the author of the words1 8,woodman1 ,spare that ,tree10 as well as the composer of the music2 and it is my humble opinion that the music in merit is far below ,morris's poetry4 ,the sentiment is beautiful1 the words breathe a true1 manly spirit and are full of deep feeling1 while the music is plaintive1 weak1 childish--namby-pamby expresses it4 ,russell did better with the ,english poet ,mackay's song1 8,cheer1 ,boys1 ,cheer10 making it go with life and spirit1 and he set appropriate music to our own ,epes ,sargent's song1 8,a ,life on the ,ocean ,wave10 in which you may fancy you almost see the good old sailing ship bowling along before the wind4 ,henry ,russell1 who1 by the way1 is a father of ,clark ,russell1 the novelist1 is still living in ,london--,february1 #ahib4 ,as to the melody1 8,the ,ivy ,green10 an astute critic says3 8,it seems to me the composer has failed to catch the poet's meaning4 ,dickens's words are as sombre and tender as the vine that deepens the shadows and softens the ruggedness of decaying grandeur2 while ,russell's music is as free and sturdy as the hardiest oak40 ,the song opens with this stanza3 ,a dainty plant is the ivy green ,that creepeth o'er ruins old1 ,of rich choice food are his meals1 ,i ween1 ,in his cell so lone and cold2 ,the wall must be crumbled1 the stones decayed1 ,to pleasure his dainty whim1 ,and the mould'ring dust that years have made1 ,is a merry meal for him4 ,creeping where no life is seen1 ,a rare old plant is the ivy green4 ,the house is about fifty years old1 and contains ten rooms4 ,dickens's study was on the second floor1 front4 ,it has a southeastern outlook2 he was fond of the rising sun4 ,the furniture and appointments of the room1 which the writer saw in the autumn of #ahia1 remain as when ,dickens left them--table with telescope1 bookcase1 plain wooden armchair1 etc4--a very simply furnished study4 ,he did not die at ,bleak ,house1 however1 but at a short distance from it1 on ,june #i1 #ahgj1 at ,gads' ,hill1 8,higham by ,rochester1 ,kent10 as he was in the habit of dating from4 ,dickens1 at ,bleak ,house1 was a tenant of a ,mr4 ,fosbury1 but the house was sold after ,dickens's death1 and is at present owned in ,broadstairs by 8,w4 ,s4 ,blackburn1 house and estate agent1 undertaker1 builder and decorator1 and upholsterer and mover of furniture10 by which man-of-many-trades the house was leased for a very short term to a ,mrs4 ,whitehead1 sister of the vicar of ,st4 ,peter's of ,broadstairs1 at an annual rent of six hundred dollars4 ,mr4 ,blackburn now offers the property for sale4 ,it would make a cool and charming summer retreat for some ,american prince4 ,or let some large-hearted and large-pursed man like ,george ,w4 ,childs buy the precious property and present it to the village of ,broadstairs4 ,illustration3 ,,bleak ,,house ,,from ,,the ,,north ,,sea4 ,,takin' ,,notes ,,in ,,edinboro' ,,town4 ,singular that more ,americans do not 8take in0 ,scotland when they are making the grand tour4 ,its historic interest and its scenic beauty are great4 ,glasgow is reached direct from ,new ,york by the fine fleet of ,anchor boats1 numbered among which are the 8,furnessia10 the 8,devonia0 and the 8,city of ,rome40 ,excepting the last named the ,scotch boats are slow in these days of 8racers0 and 8greyhounds10 but they are very comfortable vessels1 as ,i know1 from experience1 and ,i have crossed in seven days by the 8,rome0--crossed1 that is1 from ,queenstown to ,new ,york4 ,if you don't care about bustling1 busy ,glasgow1 with its smoke and its dirt1 bonnie ,edinburgh is distant only sixty-five minutes by express trains of the ,caledonian railway1 one of the best built and best equipped roads in ,great ,britain4 ,it hasn't the commerce of ,glasgow1 not being a seaport1 but it is the cleanest city ,i ever visited1 and one of the most beautiful4 ,many travellers consider ,london the most interesting city in the world1 but to a casual observer1 the four most attractive cities in ,europe are ,rome1 ,paris1 ,brussels and ,edinburgh4 ,the whole city is built of granite and freestone4 ,you don't see a brick excepting in a very few and very tall factory chimneys4 ,to some eyes this is monotonous2 to mine it is pleasing4 ,it looks1 and it is1 substantial1 solid and strong4 ,don't come at any time1 not even in ,august1 without winter clothing4 ,the winds are keen and cutting4 ,umbrella and 8waterproof0 are indispensable2 overshoes1 also1 if it is your habit to wear them1 for 8the rain it raineth every day0--so to speak4 ,this is not the remark of a hasty tourist4 ,i have been making trips to ,scotland for the past twenty years and ,i have stayed there for weeks at a time4 ,it is cool here and rain is frequent1 but everything in this life has its compensation4 ,this is the twentieth day of ,august1 #ahia1 and we have strawberries for breakfast every morning and fresh green peas are in season4 ,large1 luscious strawberries and raspberries sixpence a quart4 ,edinburgh1 remember1 is four hundred miles north of ,london4 ,the twilight is long and late1 ,i was reading a badly-printed ,scotch newspaper this evening by daylight at half-past eight4 ,labor is cheap here1 and yet boys do men's work1 such as driving carts and sweeping the streets4 ,the drives in and about ,edinburgh are very attractive1 and there are no better roads anywhere4 ,there are tram-cars in the city3 fare1 inside1 two pence2 8on top10 one penny4 ,there are also two lines of cable cars4 ,in a 8distillery agent's0 window1 in ,princes street1 ,i saw flasks of wine marked 8two shillings40 ,i stepped in and bought a flask4 8,one penny more10 remarked the salesman4 8,for what10 said ,i1 inquiringly4 8,for the cork40 ,when ,i reached my hotel ,i applied a corkscrew2 it wouldn't budge4 ,the penny 8cork0 was a glass stopper with a 8worm10 to screw on and off4 ,it strikes a stranger as rather odd to see men and boys carry so much on their heads and to see them balance their loads with such nicety4 ,instead of using small1 light push carts1 or delivering goods in baskets hanging on the arm1 as is done in ,new ,york1 ,edinburgh boys use a tray or flat board with an edge turned up1 in which they carry vegetables1 meat1 poultry1 fruit1 etc4 ,this tray is placed on the head and is scarcely ever touched by the hand except to load or unload4 ,the head in ,edinburgh is made to do good physical service4 ,the house still stands1 and is likely to stand for centuries1 in which ,walter ,scott lived for years1 and in which he wrote several of his novels4 ,it is of granite1 with a rounded 7swelled7 front1 three stories high and about thirty feet wide4 ,you must look it up when you go to ,edinburgh--,no4 #ci ,castle street4 ,it is now used for office purposes1 and is tenanted by doctors1 lawyers1 civil engineers and the like4 ,in the transom window1 over the door1 you will see a small marble bust of the novelist4 ,princes street1 the principal street1 is not very long1 only about one mile1 but as far as it goes it is not easily surpassed in any city4 ,on one side are the principal hotels and business blocks1 all of granite or freestone2 on the other side are the handsome ,princes ,gardens with monuments and the magnificent ,art ,institute in the foreground1 and in the background such buildings as the ,castle1 several churches and the ,bank of ,scotland4 ,the gardens1 with their terraces1 gravel walks1 fountains1 rustic seats1 lawns and flower-beds are uncommonly attractive4 ,it would seem that nowhere are the flowers brought to a higher state of cultivation than in the ,princes ,gardens4 ,blackwood has a large but very quiet-looking shop in ,george street1 not so crowded a thoroughfare as ,princes street1 but in which a very select business is transacted4 ,thomas ,nelson ,sons have the largest book publishing establishment in ,scotland--,i was going to say in ,great ,britain4 ,their business buildings cover a vast space of ground1 and ,mr4 ,nelson's residence1 not far from ,holyrood ,palace and ,arthur's ,seat1 is one of the most attractive private citizens' residences in this part of the country4 ,it was only two or three years ago1 so a coachman informed me1 that ,mr4 ,nelson gave ten thousand pounds to restore the front of the castle4 ,david ,douglas1 whose retail house is at ,no4 #i ,castle street1 makes a specialty of publishing and republishing works of ,american authors1 and finds his profit in it4 ,you may pick up on his counters almost anything of ,longfellow1 ,holmes1 ,lowell1 ,howells1 ,winter and ,aldrich4 ,winter's 8,shakespeare in ,england0 and his latest work1 8,gray ,days and ,gold10 were both published by ,douglas1 duplicate plates being sent over to ,macmillan of ,new ,york4 ,talk of books being expensive in ,england3 these very books by ,winter which ,macmillan sells in ,new ,york at seventy-five cents each1 ,douglas publishes at two shillings2 in paper covers for one shilling--twenty-five cents4 ,douglas's people tell me that ,winter's books find a ready sale in ,great ,britain4 ,the critics and the reading public are delighted with his sketches of ,english and ,scotch scenery1 and especially with his scholarly and beautiful descriptions of ,stratford-on-,avon and ,shakespeare's country4 ,they think that no author has written with more reverence and feeling about ,shakespeare4 ,they find 8his language poetical and his style artistic1 with a ,meissonier-like finish40 ,,fruits ,,and ,,flowers4--,in ,scotland herrings are always sold by pairs1 haddocks by threes4 ,in ,england and ,scotland fruit is sold by the pound1 so are vegetables3 and this fair and excellent method proves satisfactory to buyer and seller4 ,flowers and fruit are sold in the same shop3 the signs read1 8fruiterer and florist40 ,flowers are very high in price4 ,they use growing flowers and living plants in pots very freely to decorate the dinner table1 but this idea1 which is pretty enough in its way1 is carried too far in hotel dining-rooms4 ,so many tall plants make the table look dark and heavy1 and the broad leaves prevent you from seeing your neighbor or chatting with a friend on the other side of the table1 for in some hotels they still persist in using the old-fashioned long tables which are neither home-like nor comfortable4 ,choice fruit1 being either imported from the warmer climates or grown under glass1 is very expensive in the ,british kingdom4 ,you pay sixpence or a shilling for a peach or nectarine2 two shillings each for choice varieties4 ,the largest and handsomest peach ever grown1 possibly1 or certainly ever shown1 was exhibited last summer in a shop window in ,buchanan street1 ,glasgow4 ,it weighed eighteen ounces1 price three-and-sixpence4 ,the capital of ,scotland is always spelled ,edinburgh1 but is always pronounced ,edinboro'4 ,in the stamp department of the post-office in ,edinburgh there is a shallow indentation about four inches square in the table1 in which a piece of felt is kept constantly damp4 ,instead of putting the stamp on your tongue you pass it over the piece of felt before placing it on the envelope4 ,small matter1 but very convenient1 and shows thoughtfulness on the part of the authorities4 ,,street ,,religion4--,there's a great deal of poverty and drunkenness in ,edinburgh1 but there is also a great deal of religion4 ,all the churches are well attended on ,sunday1 and there are preaching1 praying and singing in the public streets4 ,church choirs1 men and women1 stand and sing in the public highways4 ,in the lower quarters of the city they attract people with a harmonium1 which is wheeled about from place to place4 ,passers-by stop1 join in the singing1 and in fine weather uncover their heads4 ,the singers are not paid for their services4 ,,the ,,dogs4--,here's a hint for the society which ,mr4 ,henry ,bergh founded3--,on the sidewalk in front of large shops and public buildings in ,glasgow and ,edinburgh they place small earthenware or iron vessels filled with water for passing dogs4 ,the vessel is simply and legibly marked 8,,dog40 ,probably the dogs cannot read1 but they seem to know or to 8nose out0 the shops where such a humane practice is carried out4 ,but a certain ,scotch editor contends that ,scotch dogs can read4 ,,india ,,rubber ,,pavement4--,the attention of every stranger who walks in ,princes street1 ,edinburgh1 is immediately arrested as soon as he gets in front of a certain shop1 nearly opposite the castle1 where rubber goods are sold4 ,his attention is arrested because he finds himself on a yielding pavement4 ,it is a rubber 8sidewalk0 7as we say in ,new ,york71 and was laid there by the enterprising shopkeeper4 ,it is very pleasant and comfortable to walk on1 and so durable that the authorities have talked about putting down rubber pavements on both sides of ,princes street4 ,,glasgow ,,university4--,there is not much for the tourist to see in ,glasgow except the university1 the cathedral1 founded in the fourteenth century1 and the municipal buildings4 ,but the first-named is worth walking many miles to visit1 if one is interested in such things4 ,i spent several hours in the university with pleasure and profit4 ,this university1 ,glasgow people claim1 is the finest in ,scotland4 ,it accommodates twenty-three hundred students1 who pay on an average of forty pounds a year4 ,it is generously endowed4 ,the buildings are of granite and present a noble appearance1 standing on very high ground in their own large park1 which is beautifully laid out with terraces1 flower beds and gravel walks4 ,there are some grand old trees in the park1 and a pretty winding lake1 over which are thrown many picturesque bridges4 ,though it is a seat of learning1 you will not expect the services of a college professor as a cicerone1 but you might naturally expect to hear fair ,english spoken4 ,the liveried servant who guides you will tell you1 with strong aspirations1 of the 8helementary0 classes and the 8school of harts40 ,in describing the modus operandi of taking the gold medal1 the graduate sitting in a very high-backed chair1 which is several hundred years old1 you will be told 8it's a very 'igh honor40 ,in the 8,edinburgh ,caf10 a fairish kind of restaurant in ,princes street1 opposite the ,scott monument1 a penny is charged for the privilege of washing your hands1 and a penny for the use of a napkin4 ,the majority of this caf's customers1 however1 if the truth must be told1 make a mouchoir serve for a serviette4 ,,slippers ,,supplied ,,free4--,if you go to ,philp's ,cockburn 7pronounced ,coburn7 ,hotel in ,edinburgh1 it matters not if you have forgotten to pack your slippers in your portmanteau1 for the porter will provide you with a pair4 ,one hundred pairs of red morocco slippers are kept at this hotel for the use of guests4 ,a foot of any size can be accommodated1 and there is no charge4 ,smoking is not allowed in bedrooms of ,scotch hotels1 and a notice to that effect is posted in each room4 8,smoking rooms0 are provided1 and only such apartment may be used for this purpose4 ,they are both smoky and dingy4 ,,an ,,edinburgh ,,dollar ,,dinner4--,i have dined at the leading hotels in ,new ,york1 at 8,the ,states10 in ,saratoga1 the ,breslin1 at ,lake ,hopatcong1 and my experience includes the leading hotels in the principal ,european capitals1 and the leading hotels in the ,southern and far ,western ,states1 as far as ,california1 yet ,i can say that the table d'hte dinner served at ,philp's ,cockburn ,hotel1 ,edinburgh 7on ,sunday1 ,august #bd1 #ahij71 will rank with the fare at any of these houses1 and it excels the table d'hte at some high-priced hotels in ,london and ,paris4 ,and the price charged for this dinner was very moderate--only four shillings1 about one dollar4 ,the dinner included grouse1 peaches1 strawberries and nectarines1 and from the hare soup down to the dessert1 everything was well cooked and nicely served4 ,the charge is remarkably moderate when it is understood that this is a 8temperance house10 and when you know that the choice fruit is grown under glass at high cost4 ,the dinner would have been perfect with caf noir at the close1 but this is not served in ,british hotels without additional charge4 ,,the ,,burns ,,monument4 ,if ,baltimore is the monumental city of the ,united ,states1 ,edinburgh may surely be called the monumental city of the ,united ,kingdom4 ,the majority of its public buildings1 of freestone or granite1 are noble structures standing on hills in the heart of the city1 and for their situation alone would command admiration--the old ,castle1 ,nelson monument1 the city prison1 the ,national ,gallery1 the ,bank of ,scotland1 etc4 ,no bank in the world occupies a more commandiug site than the one just named4 ,owing to the peculiar natural formation of the land upon which the city is built1 an observer may stand in one spot in ,edinburgh 7say the ,waverly ,gardens7 and see a greater number of splendid buildings at a glance than may be seen simultaneously from the level in any other city4 ,not among the largest by any means but among the most interesting must be reckoned the ,burns monument1 which occupies a high position near its still higher neighbor1 the ,nelson monument1 on ,calton ,hill4 ,the ,burns monument was built in #ahcj for the purpose of containing a marble statue of the poet by ,flaxman4 ,the building1 of freestone1 is a circular temple on a quadrangular basement surrounded by a peristyle of twelve ,corinthian columns which support an entablature and cornice4 ,over this is a cupola1 a restoration of the monument of ,lysicrates at ,athens4 ,the whole is surmounted by a tripod supported by winged griffins4 ,the extreme height of the structure is fifty feet1 the twelve outside columns are fourteen feet high and the twelve inside columns are ten feet high4 ,the latter are of freestone painted to represent variegated marble4 ,the cost of the monument and statue was three thousand three hundred pounds sterling 7about sixteen thousand five hundred dollars7--not a large sum considering the result attained4 ,besides the statue of the poet1 the monument holds a number of relics--letters written by or to ,burns1 the worm-eaten three legged stool upon which the poet sat in #aghf and '#hg while correcting the proofs of his poems1 and other things of interest4 ,one of the most interesting letters is that subjoined4 ,as is well known1 the poet spelled his name ,burness 7his family name7 until the publication of his poems in #aghf4 ,the letter is thus addressed3 ,to ,mr4 ,james ,burness1 ,writer1 ,montrose4 ,my ,dear ,cousin3 ,when you offered me money assistance1 little did ,i think ,i should want it so soon4 ,a rascal of a haberdasher to whom ,i owe a considerable bill1 taking into his head that ,i am dying1 has commenced a process against me and will infallibly put my emaciated body into jail4 ,will you be so good as to accommodate me1 and that by return of post1 with ten pounds4 ,o1 ,james1 did you know the pride of my heart you would feel doubly for me4 ,alas1 ,i am not used to beg4 ,the worse of it is my health was coming about finely1 you know1 and my physician assures me that melancholy and low spirits are half my disease4 ,guess then my horrors since this business began4 ,if ,i had it settled ,i would be1 ,i think1 quite well in a manner4 ,o1 do not disappoint me4 ,among other relics preserved in frames and hung on the walls is the printed newspaper report of ,burns's death4 ,this occurred at ,dumfries1 ,july #ba1 #agif1 and the report appeared in the ,london ,herald of ,july #bg--nearly one week after4 ,the ,london ,herald of that day was a very small sheet1 about fifteen inches long and only four columns wide1 price fourpence halfpenny a copy4 ,the obituary notice is unique and is worth reproducing to-day3 ,,death ,,of ,,mr4 ,,robert ,,burns1 ,,the ,,celebrated ,,poet4 ,on the twenty-first instant died at ,dumfries1 after a lingering illness1 the celebrated ,robert ,burns4 ,his poetical compositions1 distinguished equally by the force of native humor1 by the warmth and tenderness of passion1 and by the glowing touches of a descriptive pencil1 will remain a lasting monument of the vigor and versatility of a mind1 guided only by the light of nature and the inspirations of genius4 ,the public1 to whose amusement he so largely contributed1 will learn with regret that the last months of his short life were spent in sickness and indigence1 and his widow and five infant children1 and in the hourly expectation of a sixth1 is now left without any resource but what she may hope from the regard due to the memory of her husband4 ,apropos to the subject come these remarks in the ,new ,york ,sun3 ,it is better to write a little book that is full of heart and brains than a big book that lacks both4 ,probably there is no writer but ,robert ,burns who has made such broad and enduring renown as his through a book as small as his4 ,this thought arose while taking a glimpse of a new statue of the bard that is to be erected in a city out ,west4 ,there is a statue of ,burns in our ,central ,park2 there is another up at ,albany2 there is at least one in ,australia1 and there are several statues of him in the ,british ,isles4 ,all that he wrote appears as a tiny volume in the latest edition of his works2 much of it is in a dialect that is hard to be understood by ,english-speaking people1 and he died in obscurity about one hundred years ago4 ,yet there are probably as many public statues of him in various parts of the globe as there are of ,shakespeare1 who wrote voluminously4 ,monuments1 however1 are not ,edinburgh's only attractions1 but do not count on seeing the sights there on ,sunday4 ,the day is closely and strictly observed4 ,london is surely quiet enough on a ,sunday1 but it is gayety itself when compared with the capital of ,scotland4 ,not a shop is open2 even the drug shops are open only during two hours4 ,everything is shut as tight as a drum in ,edinburgh except the churches1 and to these you must either walk or hire a carriage1 for not the wheel of an omnibus or car turns on ,sunday4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,burns ,,monument4 ,illustration ,,right ,,reverend ,,the ,,moderator1 ,,james ,,macgregor1 ,d4 ,d4 ,in ,september1 #ahij1 ,i had the privilege of listening to ,england's foremost preacher1 ,rev4 ,c4 ,h4 ,spurgeon1 in his ,tabernacle at ,newington ,butts1 in ,london2 and one year later1 on ,sunday1 ,september #af1 #ahia1 happening to be in ,edinburgh1 ,i made it a point to hear the ,rev4 ,james ,macgregor1 the leading light of the ,scotch ,presbyterian ,church4 ,americans mostly flock to ,st4 ,giles's in ,canongate1 on account of its age and historical associations4 ,they attend divine service there early in the morning with the soldiers from the old castle4 ,but ,i wanted to hear a great preacher1 so ,i repaired to ,synod ,hall1 which the members of ,st4 ,cuthbert's parish were using as a temporary place of worship4 ,the extensive alterations1 internally and externally1 which were then making in ,st4 ,cuthbert's ,church1 will render it1 in some respects1 worthy of the site1 and of its long and honorable history4 ,the present structure dates from the year #agge4 ,only the tower and spire of the old church will be retained1 and the new edifice1 which will not be finished until the autumn of #ahib1 will accommodate a much larger number of people than the former building did4 ,it is a notable fact that on the spot where the building stands--under the ,castle ,rock of ,edinburgh--,christian worship has been continuously maintained for more than a thousand years4 ,it is1 indeed1 one of the very oldest shrines in ,scotland1 hallowed by the prayers of the faithful1 which have arisen from it for century upon century4 ,originally a mere ,culdee cell1 dedicated to the memory of ,cuthbert1 the monk of ,lindisfarne1 it has passed through a variety of forms4 ,changing with the revolutions of ,scottish history1 it has been ,roman ,catholic1 ,presbyterian1 ,episcopalian1 and finally ,presbyterian4 ,the whole aspect of the place where it rose has changed4 ,the ,nor' ,loch1 which stretched away from it eastward under the ,castle ,rock1 has disappeared2 the sweep of undulating country has been transformed into wide streets2 a great city has arisen around it2 and it still remains what it has been for ages1 a centre of ,christian influence to a wide community4 ,it is interesting as a piece of religious history to note that within little more than a stone's throw of the site of the present structure is the spot where the first ,general ,assembly was held on the #bjth of ,december1 #aefj4 ,it consisted of forty-two members1 of whom only six were ministers4 ,the first name on the roll is that of 8,john ,knox40 ,it was a fully equipped ,ecclesiastical ,convention1 and at once proceeded to important business4 ,there is no parallel instance of a court with such authority springing so suddenly into being4 ,that authority was almost sovereign4 ,it was based on the sanction and support of the popular will4 ,with a power to which the ,scottish ,parliament never attained1 it was the representative assembly of the ,scottish people1 embracing within it from the very beginning the pith of the nation's manhood4 ,the ,general ,assembly was simply the ,scotch people convened1 through their natural representatives1 to settle their own religious affairs4 ,and they did it effectually4 ,never was a change so radical and so beneficial effected in as brief a space of time as that accomplished by the ,scottish ,reformation4 ,so much for the past4 ,synod ,hall1 which1 as ,i have said1 was temporarily occupied by the congregation of ,st4 ,cuthbert's1 is a large freestone building occupying a prominent site in ,castle ,terrace opposite the back of the ,castle4 ,it accommodates about twenty-five hundred people4 ,a bold placard in the vestibule informed the hundreds of strangers in and about the vestibule that they would be admitted into the body of the church a few minutes before the services commenced4 ,the 8strangers0 waited with all the patience they could command1 and when the sign was made by one of the deacons1 they flocked in1 a large space at the back of the house being set apart for them4 ,soon every seat was occupied and people were requested to please sit closer together4 ,then1 when there was not an inch of room to spare on the benches1 chairs were placed in the aisles4 ,dr4 ,james ,macgregor1 the present minister1 was appointed ,moderator of the ,general ,assembly for the current year in ,may1 #ahia4 ,he has been connected with ,st4 ,cuthbert's for fourteen years1 having succeeded ,dr4 ,barclay1 now in ,montreal4 ,st4 ,cuthbert's1 or1 as it is also called1 the 8,west ,end ,church10 is not given to making changes oftener than is necessary4 ,dr4 ,barclay is said to be the only man who ever left ,st4 ,cuthbert's2 his predecessors all died at their posts4 ,in ,synod ,hall there is no organ2 the music was supplied by the congregation and a choir4 ,st4 ,cuthbert's usually rejoices in a large choir1 but on the occasion of my visit many of its members were 8away on their holidays10 as they call their vacation in ,great ,britain4 ,the choir on that ,sunday numbered fifteen--three men and twelve of the gentler sex4 ,mr4 ,edie1 a promising and rather brilliant man under thirty1 who has a clear voice and a ,scotch accent is assistant to ,dr4 ,macgregor4 ,the first selection of song which he gave out was the #abith ,psalm3 ,lord of the worlds above ,how pleasant and how fair ,the dwellings of ,thy love1 ,the earthly temples are4 ,then ,mr4 ,edie read the #fb;d ,chapter of ,isaiah4 ,the next selection for the congregation was the #ajb;d ,psalm1 #fth ,verse3 8,and ,god in ,his glory shall appear20 and then the #cefth ,hymn3 8,te ,deum ,laudamus40 ,mr4 ,edie concluded his part of the services with a fervent and beautiful prayer in which1 after the ,queen1 ,prince of ,wales1 the princess1 the judges and magistrates of great ,britain were enumerated1 special mention was made of the ,president and people of the ,united ,states2 of 8our wandering brethren1 the children of ,israel2 of our ,catholic brethren2 bless all honorable business men2 bless our friends and also those who have wronged us40 ,dr4 ,macgregor1 who then rose from a chair1 took his text from the #dth ,chapter1 #ast ,verse1 of 8,hosea30 8,hear the word of the ,lord1 ye children of ,israel40 ,then followed a brilliant discourse on the history of the ,jewish race1 in which1 incidentally1 much information was conveyed1 the main ideas being3 first1 that the government of ,great ,britain should use its influence in behalf of the ,russian refugees2 second that the ,christian people owe much to the ,jews and should therefore be most charitable toward them4 ,the minister paid a high tribute to the chosen people and their characteristics4 ,he said that the countries which abused them most1 ,spain and ,portugal1 had been least prosperous1 and it would be strange1 indeed1 if ,russia suffered not for its inhuman persecution of them2 that1 in fact1 it was suffering4 ,notwithstanding that they had been downtrodden for centuries1 the ,jews were vastly stronger in numbers to-day than ever before in the history of the world1 numbering at the present time twelve millions4 ,the speaker showed that the decline of ,jerusalem was owing to the comparatively small number of ,jews there in later years1 and he strongly advocated their return4 ,to quote the doctor almost verbatim3 8,i may be criticised for criticising ,russia4 ,some may say3 #8,let each country look after its own affairs1 and it will have enough to do4 ,it is none of ,england's business what ,russia does1' but ,i say it is the business of every civilized country1 of every civilized man2 it is your business and my business2 it affects each and every one of us2 it hurts you and me1 and it is to be hoped that ,great ,britain will lift up its voice and use its influence in behalf of these much injured refugees40 ,if this discourse had been especially prepared to deliver before a strictly and exclusively ,jewish assemblage1 it could not have been more complimentary to their people4 ,one of its 8points0 was thus worded3 8,there must be something wrong with that man's head--with that man's heart who despises the ,jews40 ,dr4 ,macgregor has the title of one of ,her ,majesty's chaplains2 he is a member of the ,hon4 ,royal ,scottish ,academy1 and a member of the ,royal ,society of ,edinburgh1 but a self-made man withal4 ,he is not ashamed to acknowledge that his parents were poor and modest4 ,he may have lacked early advantages1 but he certainly has made the best of his later opportunities4 ,he is a man of fine intellect2 a ripe scholar1 with broad and liberal views4 ,his language is choice1 and yet the fine phrases and well selected words seem to follow each other with great ease4 ,his diction is neither stilted nor is it too simple but that of an intellectual man who is addressing intelligent people4 ,his voice1 notwithstanding a certain and unmistakable nasal quality1 is penetrating--and his elocutionary powers are great4 ,i was on the last bench1 with my back against the wall1 and ,i heard almost every word4 ,i could not follow the speaker quickly on account of his strong ,scottish accent--8murdering0 became 8murrderring10 with a most decided roll of the r1 and 8,turks0 came to me in two syllables1 something like 8,turreks10 while 8earth0 was changed to 8airth10 with the r in the middle by no means slighted4 ,the speaker's facial expressions were a study1 and his gesticulations at times strikingly dramatic4 ,he appealed in tender and pathetic tones to the hearts of his hearers1 with hands uplifted as if in supplication1 and then again he would raise his head and fold his arms across his chest in a ,napoleonic1 defiant attitude when combating the arguments of an imaginary adversary4 ,in fact1 he does not seem to be addressing a large audience1 but talking to and debating with but one person1 and each person in the congregation might imagine that he was that one4 ,he takes both sides in the debate1 and makes both effective1 but he carries the day for his own because he is on the side of right4 ,dr4 ,macgregor closed the service with ,hymn #aag3 ,arm of the ,lord1 awake1 awake6 ,put on ,thy strength1 the nations shake2 ,and let the world1 adoring see ,triumphs of mercy wrought by ,thee4 ,when the moderator is in the pulpit you do not notice that he is below the medium height2 only when he steps down1 and when you stand by his side1 do you observe that he is small of stature--not much over five feet4 ,his eye has a most kindly expression1 his voice is pleasing in conversation1 and his manner gracious and gentle4 ,the accompanying portrait is reproduced from a photograph made by ,john ,moffatt1 #abe ,princes street1 ,edinburgh4 ,on the day ,i had the good fortune to be present1 there were in the congregation many prominent members of the ,archological ,society of ,scotland1 who were on a temporary visit to ,edinburgh1 including the ,bishop of ,carlisle and the ,earl of ,percy1 heir to the dukedom of ,northumberland4 ,after the service ,i had the honor of being presented to ,dr4 ,macgregor by a member of this society1 in 8,the ,moderator's ,room10 so inscribed on the door4 ,upon hearing that ,i was 8from the ,states10 he immediately expressed his great admiration for the country and its form of government4 ,he seemed to be well-informed regarding our people and the country1 and said that one of his cherished hopes was to make us a visit4 ,illustration ,,crossing ,,the ,,channel4 ,there are many ways of 8crossing0 between the ,continent and the ,english coast1 or vice versa4 ,the best steamers between ,england and ,holland are those which go from ,rotterdam to ,harwich4 ,harwich 7,anglice1 ,harridge7 is about a two hours' run up to ,london4 ,i have tried the different ways of crossing from the ,french coast to ,england--via ,newhaven and ,dieppe1 ,folkstone and ,boulogne1 and ,calais and ,dover4 ,the last route is by far the best4 ,it would be preferred over all others1 if for only one reason1 because it is the shortest1 the ,english ,channel being 8disagreeable0 at least one half the year4 ,the ,calais and ,dover boats are advertised to make the trip between the two points 8in seventy minutes10 and they do actually make it in one hour and a quarter4 ,the other routes are much longer4 ,no small craft that ply on the ,english waters are as beautiful in their appointments as our ,hudson river boats1 or those for instance of the ,fall ,river line1 but they are staunch and swift1 and they are manned by as brave a set of seamen as ever trod a deck4 ,the ,english boats are proof against wind and wave1 the only danger being from fire or fog1 but as they are officered by skillful and experienced navigators1 and are very carefully handled1 the danger is reduced to a minimum4 ,,paris ,,hotels4 ,paris is not in the least behind other cities in the number of its hotels nor in the variety of accommodations offered4 ,your choice must depend first upon the length of your purse2 second1 upon the length of your stay2 third1 the purpose of your visit4 ,the number in the party and their individual tastes and requirements must also be taken into account4 ,i have not passed near so much time in ,paris as in ,london4 ,the most ,i can do is to suggest a few of the choicest hotels and pensions with which ,i am acquainted1 giving their rates and distinctive features4 ,for information as to ,where to ,dine in ,paris ,i must refer the reader to a chapter further on1 entitled 8,the ,restaurants of ,paris10 by that facile magazinist and connoisseur in many arts1 ,mr4 ,theodore ,child4 ,it first appeared in a book entitled 8,living ,paris10 which was published in ,london three years ago by ,ward ,downey1 and is the most complete and comprehensive ,guide to ,paris ,i have ever seen4 ,,the ,,grand ,,hotel4 ,the ,grand ,hotel is one of the largest and most expensive4 ,it is grand in size2 grand in appointments4 ,it is not a cheap house in any sense of that term1 and possibly for that reason is largely patronized by ,americans4 ,the building occupies a square block facing that magnificent street1 l',avenue de l',opra1 diagonally across from the ,grand ,opera ,house4 ,it encloses a large courtyard with fountains and parterres4 ,the caves of the ,grand are ranked as one of the sights of ,paris2 they are stocked with the choicest of wines4 ,rooms from six francs per day3 table d'hte dinner1 seven francs4 ,,hotel ,,continental4 ,the ,continental1 on the corner of the rue de ,rivoli and rue ,castiglione1 is opposite the gardens of the ,tuileries4 ,near by are ,hotel des ,invalides1 the ,madeleine1 the ,eiffel ,tower and other interesting buildings4 ,it is large and elegant--grander than the ,grand4 ,the grounds1 with the structure and furnishing are said to have cost a few millions of francs1 and it may be readily believed4 ,some of the rooms are palatial in size1 furniture and decorations4 ,the rates at the ,continental are a little lower than at the ,grand4 ,they range all the way from five francs to thirty-five francs per day for room2 lights and attendance extra4 ,breakfast of coffee1 chocolate or tea with rolls1 from one to two francs2 breakfast proper1 or djeuner la fourchette1 five francs1 wine and coffee included4 ,table d'hte dinner1 seven francs4 ,at all ,paris hotels wine is included in the charge for dinner1 but at the ,continental on ,sundays1 champagne as well as vin ordinaire is served free1 but not1 as in the case of the latter1 in unlimited quantity4 ,,hotel ,,meurice4 ,smaller than these two hotels and for that reason thought by some to be more select is the ,hotel ,meurice1 in rue de ,rivoli4 ,it is near rue ,castiglione and opposite the ,tuileries gardens1 altogether a beautiful location4 ,issuing from the handsome courtyard and turning to the left1 a few minutes walk brings you to the ,palais ,royal and the ,louvre galleries2 or turning to the right a few steps bring you past the hotel ,continental1 to ,place de la ,concorde and the ,champs lyses4 ,it may seem strange to those who have not lived in continental hotels1 to note that the hotel ,meurice is scrupulously clean4 ,you observe this in its beautiful courtyard1 in its handsome dining-room and in the neatly kept bedrooms4 ,the hotel is patronized by leading ,new ,york families and by the best ,english society1 and it ranks as does the ,brunswick or the ,victoria in ,new ,york4 ,the cuisine of the house is famous and its cellars contain rare wines4 ,hotel ,meurice was established in #ahae and its present proprietor has kept it for more than thirty years4 ,if your stay in ,paris is to cover a week or more1 you--and especially the ladies of your party--will find this hotel a thoroughly agreeable place of sojourn2 ,baedeker counsels avoiding the largest hotels if you are accompanied by ladies4 ,hotel ,meurice has electric light1 and new plumbing was put in a few years ago4 ,it accommodates two hundred guests4 ,single rooms from five francs per day2 apartments from fifteen to one hundred francs4 ,table d'hte dinner1 at six ,p4,m41 six francs4 ,proprietor1 ,h4 ,schurich2 address1 #bbh rue de ,rivoli4 ,,hotel ,,chatham4 ,hotel ,chatham is justly famed as one of the most elegantly appointed of ,paris hotels4 ,i have known it for twenty years1 and for twenty-five years it has been the temporary home of travellers of all nations1--those who demand the best hotel accommodations4 ,hotel ,chatham occupies a central location1 near the ,opra1 rue de la ,paix1 the theatres1 and the best shopping streets4 ,once inside the house1 however1 and an air of tranquility reigns that is in marked contrast to the busy life of the city1 in the midst of which the hotel is situated4 ,the first feature of the ,hotel ,chatham that attracts attention is the large1 light1 and spacious courtyard1 fifty by one hundred feet4 ,it makes an impression that gains in favor when you see the apartments4 ,the grand salon1 the reading-room and caf look out upon this courtyard1 which is embellished with plants and flowers4 ,the sleeping apartments are beautifully furnished1 have plenty of light and good ventilation4 ,there are elegant suites1 also choice single and double rooms4 ,the decorations are in good taste4 ,in the best apartments the walls are not hung with paper1 but are covered with stuffs--a mixture of worsted and soft silks4 ,hot and cold water on every floor4 ,two features especially commend themselves to those who are acquainted with foreign hotels2 there are two ,otis elevators1 and the house is lighted throughout by electricity--shedding a light in the rooms1 not of one bougie1 but of twenty4 ,the cuisine represents the perfection of the culinary art1 and the wine-cellars are celebrated for their famous vintages4 ,the ,hotel ,chatham is the home of the best people and many ,americans annually seek its hospitality4 ,the ,harpers1 for instance1 members of the great publishing house1 are among its regular guests4 ,the present proprietor is ,m4 ,h4 ,holzschuch1 son of the late owner1 under whom the house acquired its wide fame4 ,hotel ,chatham is at #ag and #ai rue ,daunou1 between rue de la ,paix and ,boulevard des ,capucines4 ,,hotel ,,binda4 ,everybody in ,paris knows the ,hotel ,binda1 and it is known by a great many people who have never been in ,paris4 ,with ,new ,yorkers the house is a favorite because it is kept by ,mr4 ,charles ,binda who for years was manager of ,delmonico's1 and this settles at once and satisfactorily the important question of cuisine4 ,the house was opened in #ahgh4 ,it is solidly built of stone1 five stories high1 and is an imposing structure4 ,it stands in rue de l',echelle1 on a corner of the avenue de l',opra1 the principal business street of ,paris1 and probably the handsomest shopping street in the world4 ,it is most conveniently located for the principal places of interest--the ,grand ,opera1 ,palais ,royal1 the ,louvre galleries1 etc4 ,one minute's walk brings you to the rue de ,rivoli1 that wide open street1 one side of which is flanked by the open and beautiful gardens of the ,tuileries4 ,if in the heat of a summer day in walking to ,place ,vendome or to the ,champs lyses1 you wish to avoid sunny rue de ,rivoli1 shade is at your very door in the narrow but picturesque rue ,st4 ,honor1 which1 with its little shops1 its hotels1 old churches1 etc41 is a feature of outdoor life in ,paris4 ,the ,grand ,opera is at the other end of the ,avenue de l',opra1 a short walk4 ,but omnibuses pass the door1 by which you can reach any part of ,paris at the expense of a few sous4 ,and1 for that matter1 it is only a thirty-cent cab fare to the ,grand ,opera1 to the offices of the ,american ,minister1 ,whitelaw ,reid1 in ,avenue ,hoche1 or to the ,anglo-,american ,bank on the corner of ,chausse d',antin and rue ,meyerbeer4 ,cocher will go fast enough if by the course and slow enough 7too slow7 if by the hour4 ,instead of a courtyard such as many hotels in ,paris have1 and which in some cases are useless1 the space on the ground floor is used by the ,binda for a grand1 glass-enclosed reception and reading-room1 beautifully lighted by day and by night4 ,there is also a grand drawing-room and a smoking-room1 which unlike the dingy rooms turned over to the use of men in some ,english hotels is1 in the ,binda1 a very bright and attractive apartment4 ,all the apartments are comfortably and tastefully furnished1 but some of the rooms are furnished in palatial style4 ,there are baths on every floor and some rooms have running water4 ,of course there are electric lights and an ascenseur1 ,anglice 8lift40 ,but for all its grandeur1 one may live at the ,binda at moderate cost4 ,if you know about how wide you wish to open your purse in selecting apartments you can tell as precisely as you could in an ,american hotel how much your bill will amount to for a stay of five days or five weeks4 ,single rooms may be had from seven to twelve francs per day2 double rooms from fourteen to thirty francs4 ,special rates1 lower than these1 are made to guests remaining a length of time4 ,here is the tariff for the dining-room3 ,plain breakfast 7tea or chocolate7 #a;f4 #ej;c41 about #cj cents2 table d'hte dinner1 served at separate tables1 #f;f41 servant's board #f;f4 per day4 ,no charge is made for attendance4 ,that ,charles ,binda is proprietor is guarantee that the table is equal to the ,cambridge in ,new ,york1 or the ,albemarle in ,london1 and these satisfy the most fastidious4 ,mr4 ,binda is famous for his cuisine1 but he prides himself most upon the quality of his guests4 ,he demands that above and beyond everything else his house shall be select1 and it is so in the fullest sense4 ,you may meet crowned heads and princes there4 ,hon4 ,thomas ,l4 ,james1 one of ,new ,york's honored and honorable citizens1 with his charming family1 stayed at the ,binda while he was in ,paris last summer1 and ,i also saw ,judge ,dittenhoefer1 the family of ,vice-,consul ,hooper1 and other well-known ,americans in the reading-room4 ,yes1 the ,binda is a select family hotel4 ,address ,no4 #aa rue de l',echelle4 ,,hotel ,,anglo-,,fran,,ais4 ,there are several comparatively small but decidedly pleasant hotels in rue ,castiglione--,hotel ,liverpool1 ,hotel ,balmoral and ,hotel ,anglo-,franais4 ,the last-named is especially to be commended for its choice location1 the comfort and cleanliness of its rooms1 its appetizing cuisine1 and its remarkably moderate charges4 ,it is in rue ,castiglione1 directly opposite the ,continental2 two blocks one way from the ,column ,vendome1 two blocks from the ,place de la ,concorde1 near the ,champs lyses1 and only a few hundred feet from the beautiful gardens of the ,tuileries4 ,like the majority of ,paris hotels1 the ,anglo-,franais is entered by a court-yard1 but unlike some of them1 the ventilation and lighting of the house are good4 ,it has ample room for more than one hundred guests1 and they can be made very comfortable4 ,the house is kept on the ,american as well as on the ,european plan4 ,if you adopt the system which prevails abroad1 you may hire a single room as low as four francs per day1 or a double room from seven francs per day2 breakfast1 three francs2 luncheon1 four francs2 table d'hte dinner1 six francs4 ,this figure includes good wine in quantum sufficit1 as a medical man might say4 ,as at nearly all ,continental hotels1 8service0 is charged4 ,in this instance it is one franc per day2 and you pay for lights--item seventy-five centimes1 about fifteen cents4 ,but if you wish to be relieved of all this detail and save the bother of reckoning1 you can stay at the ,anglo-,franais1 and your whole bill per day for board1 lodging1 lights1 wine1 etc41 will be the moderate sum of fifteen francs 7three dollars71 which1 considering the appointments of the house1 the excellent table and the attention you receive1 is an uncommonly low rate4 ,the proprietor is a gentleman of decidedly pleasant and courteous manners1 who1 having lived in ,england for twenty years1 is perfectly at home in the ,english language as well as his native tongue4 ,if you desire to mix with an ultra-fashionable set1 the ,bristol is your house2 if you want to see and be with ,americans only1 then select the ,grand4 ,the ,continental is the place for those who would feast their eyes on palatial salons3 at the ,anglo-,franais you will get into the company of good people from different countries1 you can be quiet and comfortable and made to feel at home1 as is to be expected in a smaller house4 ,moreover1 your purse will be lightly drawn upon in accordance with the figures given above4 ,proprietor1 ,paul ,vargues2 address1 ,no4 #f rue ,castiglione4 ,,hotel ,,de ,,lille ,,et ,d',,albion1 in rue ,st4 ,honor is not a very large house1 but it is ranked among the best1 although its charges are quite moderate4 ,it has baths1 lift1 electric light and ,english billiard tables1 its modern contrivances including telephonic communication with the leading ,european cities4 ,the sanitary arrangements are said to be perfect4 ,the location is central for shopping1 for places of amusement and points of interest1 being near ,place ,vendome1 ,tuileries ,gardens and the ,opera4 ,mail address1 #bbc rue ,st4 ,honor3 telegraph address1 ,lillalbion1 ,paris4 ,,hotel ,,bristol ,,and ,,hotel ,,du ,,rhin both front on the ,place ,vendome2 you can't miss them3 they are near the tall and graceful ,column ,vendome which pierces the sky from the centre of the square4 ,there is no question as to the excellence of either of these houses4 ,both are patronized by a select class of patrons2 the former is the home of the ,prince of ,wales when he visits ,paris4 ,,hotel ,,liverpool is patronized by the ,astors4 ,to ,americans this information conveys more than could be detailed in a whole page of description4 ,it is situated at #aa rue ,castiglione1 a wide and fashionable thoroughfare leading from ,place ,vendome to the ,tuileries ,gardens4 ,the house was recently newly fitted up and has a hydraulic lift4 ,there are large apartments for families making a more or less prolonged stay2 smaller apartments for transient guests4 ,,hotel ,,de ,l',,ath,n,e4 ,of hotels just as select as any of those mentioned1 there are a score or more4 ,among them may be mentioned the ,hotel de l',athne1 #ae rue ,scribe4 ,it was recently enlarged1 the whole of the ,thtre de l',athne having been added1 and the former dining-room is now converted into a reading room4 ,there are two bath-rooms on each floor4 ,the appointments include a parlor1 a reading room1 a restaurant a la carte1 and two private dining-rooms4 ,there are #ahj rooms in all1 which rent from four francs to twenty francs a day1 but there are not very many rooms in the house at four francs4 ,,des ,,deux ,,mondes4--,a comfortable family hotel1 newly and tastefully furnished1 is the ,hotel des ,deux ,mondes1 #bb ,avenue de l',opra1 facing full south4 ,the charges are moderate and the table d'hte good4 ,,prince ,,albert4--,if price alone is a recommendation there is the ,hotel du ,prince ,albert1 #e rue ,st4 ,hyacinthe1 near the ,tuileries4 ,rooms from #b francs #ej centimes per day with even lower terms for the winter4 ,the house seeks ,american patronage4 ,,hotel ,,brighton1 #bah rue de ,rivoli4 ,rooms from #f francs per day3 breakfast1 #b francs1 dinner #g francs4 ,proprietor1 ,a4 ,bastianello4 ,,hotel ,,campbell4--,this favorite house with an ,english name has changed hands1 lately4 ,arthur ,geissler is the new proprietor4 ,it is at #fa and #fc ,avenue de ,friedland1 a pleasant and fashionable location1 near the grand drive of the ,champs lyses4 ,the house is in a healthy condition and the rates are moderate1 ,hotel ,campbell is easy to find2 it is close to the ,arc de ,triomphe4 ,illustration ,,pensions ,,of ,,the ,,first ,,class4 ,but you are not forced to patronize any hotel1 large or small2 there are many very delightful pensions or boarding houses in ,paris4 ,these some people prefer1 if their party includes ladies1 or if they intend to make a protracted stay4 ,a few of these pensions are presided over by ,american women4 ,,the ,,lafond combines some of the best features of hotel and pension4 ,it is at #ad rue de la ,tremoille1 near the ,champs lyses4 ,it is called 8a comfortable ,american home10 and is made all the more comfortable by having a lift4 ,rates for two persons in one room1 with three meals per day1 #ah to #cj francs per day2 single rooms1 #aj to #ae francs per day2 children and servants1 half rates4 ,these figures include all charges2 the ,american plan4 ,if you prefer the ,european plan1 these rates prevail--breakfast1 two to four francs2 luncheon1 three francs3 dinner at #g ,p4,m41 five francs4 ,cable address1 ,lafhotel1 ,paris4 ,,hotel ,,de ,,dijon is situated in rue ,canmartin1 between the ,opra and the ,madeleine4 ,it is a family pension1 and the charges range from #g to #aj francs per day1 according to rooms4 ,soires are held every ,friday with music1 singing and dancing4 ,the table d'hte is good2 there are reading1 smoking and bath-rooms4 ,,the ,,van ,,pelt ,,pension at #fi ,boulevard ,st4 ,michel is kept by ,mrs4 ,e4 ,l4 ,van ,pelt1 a ,philadelphia woman who took with her to ,paris the best ,american references4 ,this place has many features which commend it to the stranger in ,paris4 ,its location1 facing the ,luxembourg ,gardens1 is near the famous art schools and the ,sorbonne1 where free lectures are given1 thus making this a desirable residence for students4 ,it is within easy access by omnibus1 cab or train to all parts of ,paris and environs4 ,the house stands on a corner1 and all the rooms are exposed to the sun and air4 ,a balcony surrounds the first floor4 ,french is the language of the household1 and a chaperon accompanies ladies to lectures1 etc4 ,there is a separate table for those who prefer to speak ,english4 ,,american ,,family ,,home4--,this term is appropriately applied to the pension de famille presided over by a young ,french widow whose personal beauty and grace of manner are more than marked4 ,reference is made to ,madame ,veuve ,lon ,glatz1 who is assisted in her duties by her sister4 ,both of them speak ,english with a pretty and piquant accent4 ,the ,glatz pension is in rue de ,clichy1 five minutes distant from ,st4 ,lazare ,station and ,park ,monceau2 ten minutes from la ,madelaine and the ,opera4 ,it was built in #ahhe and is sanitarily correct2 supplied with pure spring water from the new water works of ,paris4 ,there is a really grand salon in which musicales are given weekly4 ,in the rear of this is a large and handsome garden1 neatly kept--a very pretty lounging place on summer evenings4 ,there are baths in the house1 the bedrooms are nicely furnished1 the service is good1 and last1 and by no means least worthy of note is the table1 which is liberally supplied2 the best as to quality4 ,but ,madame ,glatz at present has only room for thirty guests and her house is in such demand that you must engage rooms months1 or at least weeks1 in advance4 ,terms1 #h to #ad francs per day1 which is the full charge2 no extras1 except1 possibly1 for lights4 ,this is a favorite place with ,americans of refinement3 others are not admitted to ,madame ,glatz's charming family circle4 ,address1 #de rue de ,clichy4 ,,the ,,powers ,,pension--,one of the most desirable pensions in ,paris1 especially desirable for ,americans1 is kept not by a 8charming ,frenchwoman10 nor by a 8hearty0 ,britisher1 but by a couple of cultivated1 good ,americans1 well-known in ,new ,york--,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,j4 ,g4 ,powers1 ,jr4 ,the house is in a high and delightful location1 in the ,american quarter1 #fi ,avenue d',antin1 near the ,champs lyses4 ,mrs4 ,powers claims that it is 8the most elegant and comfortable pension in ,europe10 and ,i1 who have had some experience in hotels and pensions of the first rank1 do not contradict the statement4 ,i am not given to using the adjective 8elegant0 too freely1 but elegant and tasteful are words that come to mind without summoning1 in speaking of the ,powers pension4 ,the salon is a beautiful apartment2 yes1 uncommonly beautiful4 ,it is on ,monday evenings more particularly that this salon looks its best1 when the receptions1 with music1 are held4 ,the ,powers pension is a select family home in the strictest sense of the term1 and the rates for board are quite reasonable3 pleasant rooms and three meals from ten francs per day4 ,a lift was put in last autumn4 ,make a note of the address--#fi ,avenue d',antin4 ,in the hotels mentioned the reader has a very wide latitude of choice and he may be guided by the facts and the figures set forth1 so far as they go4 ,as a last word ,i will add that if the reader 8puts up0 at the ,hotel ,chatham1 ,hotel ,binda1 or the ,anglo-,franais1 or the pensions of ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,powers1 ,madame ,veuve ,glatz1 or ,mrs4 ,van ,pelt1 he will surely have no occasion to regret his choice of quarters4 ,illustration ,,the ,,restaurants ,,of ,,paris4 ,,by ,,theodore ,,child4 ,in order to anticipate criticism1 and to avoid disappointment1 it may be well to state at once that the art of cookery is in a terrible state of decadence in ,paris4 ,the men of the present generation do not seem to have the sentiment of the table2 they know neither its varied resources nor its infinite refinements2 their palates are dull1 and they are content to eat rather than to dine4 ,this decadence may be remarked both in private and in public establishments4 ,the gourmet nowadays is a rarity1 and a man of thirty years of age who knows how to order a dinner is a still greater rarity4 ,one might discover many causes of this decline of a delicate art4 ,the conditions of contemporary life1 the hurry and unrest of modern ,paris1 doubtless do not conduce to the appreciation of fine cooking2 but the chief cause of the decline of cookery in restaurants is the development of club life4 ,the men of fashion1 leisure1 or wealth1 who formerly would have lived at the restaurants1 now dine at their clubs between two sances at the baccarat table1 and the restaurants have thus lost that nucleus of regular and fastidious customers which1 by its readiness to criticise and appreciate1 obliged and encouraged the chef to keep up the traditions of the dainty palates of the past4 ,at present the great restaurants of ,paris depend for support as much on foreigners and on provincial people as on resident ,parisians4 ,the criticism of their cookery is less constant and less rigorous2 the bills of fare are less varied than they were of old2 the amour propre of the cooks is less2 in a word1 cookery has become nowadays more an industry than an art4 ,even in the most famous ,parisian restaurants the visitor must not expect too much in the way either of viands or of wines4 ,in certain things1 again1 it must be remembered that the ,parisian market is inferior to the markets of almost any town in ,england4 ,the ,english visitor generally speaks disparagingly of the ,french oyster1 for instance1 doubtless because he is not accustomed to its flavor1 and yet ,i know many connoisseurs who have travelled and dined in many lands who maintain that of all oysters the green ,marennes 7,marennes vertes7 are the most delicate and delicious4 ,the lovers of comparisons will ask what equivalents the ,french have for real turtle-soup1 ox-tail1 mulligatawny1 and pea-soup with a sprinkling of dried mint and sippets4 ,is it their bisque or pure of crayfish1 their consomm de volaille1 their ,saint ,germain1 or green pea-soup1 their ,parmentier1 or thick potato-soup8 ,but the traveller does not go to ,paris to eat the food of his native land1 but rather to enjoy the particular food of the country4 ,therefore1 he must not expect to get fine salmon1 or cod-fish1 or turbot1 or even mackerel in ,paris4 ,the city is too far away from the sea to have good salt-water fish4 ,salmon in ,paris is dry and of poor flavor2 fresh cod-fish is rarely seen1 and the habits of the restaurants render it impossible to eat such salmon and turbot as there is in favorable conditions4 ,in a ,london restaurant a whole salmon or a whole turbot is served hot like the joints2 in a ,paris restaurant1 if you order boiled salmon or turbot1 the cook cuts a slice off a parboiled fish1 puts the slice in the pot1 and boils it up for you4 ,the result is unsatisfactory4 ,as a rule1 ,i should say1 in a ,parisian restaurant eat your salmon and your turbot cold1 and prefer to both a red mullet 7rouget71 a sole1 a trout1 or some fresh-water fish4 ,a carefully prepared matelotte d'anguilles1 which is not precisely the same as stewed eels1 and friture de ,seine1 which need not be compared to whitebait1 are both dishes not unworthy of the attention of the epicure4 ,the ,french are poor roasters2 the roast beef and roast mutton in their restaurants cannot for a moment be compared with the joints at ,simpson's or ,blanchard's in ,london4 ,pies and puddings also are unknown to the ,french1 with the exception of pts de foie gras and game pies4 ,the ,french1 again1 eat their game very fresh and less cooked than the ,english4 ,generally1 ,i think that the raw material of the ,parisian restaurant cuisine is inferior to that of ,english restaurants2 on the other hand1 with the limitations referred to above1 particularly as regards roasting1 the preparation of the dishes is superior1 and in the first-class restaurants unique4 ,in the preparation and variety of vegetables the ,french lead the world2 in the fabrication of sauces they are unsurpassed2 in the serving and arrangement of a dinner they leave little to be desired4 ,but where can one go to dine in ,paris8 ,which restaurants are the best1 and what are the prices1 and what is one to order8 ,the subject is delicate and even dangerous1 for although the critic has the right to declare a book or picture bad1 pernicious1 or abominable1 and to pronounce its author to be unworthy of public attention1 he dare not be so outspoken about the wretchedest restaurant-keeper who is licensed to poison his customers4 ,i cannot tell you that such and such a restaurant in the ,palais ,royal is not to be frequented1 or that such and such a gilded palace on the boulevard is an expensive delusion4 ,i may1 however1 assure you that as prices run in ,paris1 it is impossible for a restaurateur to serve you with a healthy and honest plate of meat for less than one and a half francs1 and you may therefore conclude that the restaurateurs who1 for a fixed price1 varying from one and a quarter to three francs1 offer you a complete dinner of five courses--soup1 fish1 meat1 two desserts1 and half a bottle of wine--are probably in league with the honorable apothecaries1 whose aid their customers must often need4 ,to the traveller ,i say avoid prix fixe dinners altogether1 or1 if you will satisfy your curiosity1 go to the ,dner ,europen at the corner of rue ,lepelletier and the boulevard 7price five francs71 or to the table d'hte dinners of those vast caravansaries1 the ,htel du ,louvre1 the ,grand ,htel1 or the ,htel ,continental1 where you dine for six1 seven1 or eight francs1 and see specimens of men1 women and children of all the countries of the world1 and a profusion of linen1 of silver plate1 and luxurious surroundings which1 for a time1 will perhaps distract your attention from the insipidness of the roasts and the cheapness of the sauces4 ,the ,bouillon ,duval is an establishment which generally attracts the attention of the traveller4 ,in every quarter of ,paris you see one or two sober and respectable-looking faades painted dark red and lettered simply1 8tablissement ,duval40 ,the ,duval restaurants are wonderfully organized1 exceedingly cheap1 and all the food sold in them is good and genuine2 these establishments now serve an average of three million meals a year4 ,the visitor may often find it convenient in his wanderings about ,paris to lunch in one of these ,duval restaurants1 if he is out of the way of any other well-known restaurant4 ,in all of them he will find the food of the same quality1 and the prices the same4 ,as he enters1 the doorkeeper will hand him a bulletin1 on which all that he eats and drinks will be checked off1 and which bulletin1 when duly paid and stamped1 will serve him as a passport when he leaves the establishment4 ,the prices at the ,duvals are very low2 no dish costs more than one franc1 and most of them only fifty or sixty centimes2 wine costs twenty centimes a carafon1 which is equivalent to one glassful1 or one franc a bottle and upwards2 coffee and cognac costs forty centimes4 ,the ,duval restaurant may be frequented with impunity1 for nothing poisonous or deleterious is sold there2 the only disadvantage is that the portions being very small1 a hungry man1 in order to satisfy his appetite1 will need so many portions1 that his bill will mount up to as much as if he had lunched or dined in an establishment of superior standing and comfort4 ,the ,bouillon ,duval stands in the same relation to the regular restaurant as the omnibus or tram-car stands to the victoria2 as somebody has said1 c'est l'omnibus du ventre4 ,at length we come to the restaurants proper1 the restaurants where one dines in the true sense of the term4 ,it is commonly believed that the first-class restaurants in ,paris are very dear4 ,the ,caf ,anglais1 you will be told1 charges twelve francs for a beefsteak for two1 and fifteen francs for a ,rouen duck4 ,yes1 but the beefsteak in question is a ,chateaubriand1 a kernel of delicate meat cut in the heart of the filet1--meat that is sold at two and a half francs a pound by the butcher--and the duck costs eight or nine francs at the poulterer's4 ,good provisions in ,paris are dear1 and when one considers the heavy expenses of the first-class restaurants1 one cannot complain of their charges4 ,as regards perfection of cooking1 the ,caf ,anglais heads the list4 ,its soups and sauces are exquisite2 a sole 8 l',orly10 8,colbert10 8normande10 8 la ,join-ville10 or 8au vin blanc10 may be eaten there in perfection1 and there is no restaurant in ,paris where you can get a more delicate 8sauce diable0 served to a grilled fowl4 ,the two great tests of a ,french kitchen are soups and sauces2 if these are good1 you may rest assured that everything else will be good4 ,in the same category with the ,caf ,anglais1 both as regards quality of food and price1 may be placed ,durand's1 opposite the ,madeleine1 and ,adolphe and ,pell behind the ,opra4 ,next come the ,maison d',or1 the ,caf de la ,paix1 ,bignon1 and the ,caf de ,paris1 in the ,avenue de l',opra1 ,voisin in the rue ,cambon1 the old ,vfour in the ,palais ,royal1 the ,pre ,lathuile1 in the ,avenue de ,clichy1 and ,fayot1 opposite the ,luxembourg ,palace4 ,at all these restaurants you can dine delicately and drink as good wines as are still to be had in ,france4 ,voisin and ,foyot1 especially1 have choice ,burgundies of incomparable fineness4 ,the third category of restaurants includes the ,caf ,riche1 which years ago belonged to the first category2 ,brbant's1 now a general ,bouillon1 at the corner of ,boulevard ,montmartre2 ,chevilliard1 at the ,rond-,point des ,champs lyses2 ,laurent1 and ,ledoyen1 in the ,champs lyses2 ,champeaux1 ,place de la ,bourse1 where you dine in a perpetual winter garden2 ,edouard1 ,place ,boieldieu1 opposite the ,opra ,comique2 ,wepler1 ,place ,clichy2 ,la ,prouse1 on the ,quai des ,grands ,augustins2 ,maire1 at the corner of the ,boulevard de ,strasbourg and the ,boulevard ,st4 ,denis2 ,marguery1 next door to the ,gymnase theatre2 ,perroncel1 rue du ,havre1 opposite the ,gare ,saint ,lazare4 ,in the ,bois du ,boulogne the restaurants of ,madrid1 and of the ,pavilion d',armenonville are much frequented in the summer by gay and smart people3 the prices are about the same as at the restaurants in town of the second category1 that is to say1 two can dine there modestly with ordinary wine for a louis4 ,i presume that the traveller comes to ,paris to taste ,parisian cooking1 and therefore ,i shall not recommend him to try the pseudo-,english cuisine of ,weber or ,lucas in the rue ,royale and ,place de la ,madeleine1 or the ,russian restaurant in the rue ,marivaux1 or the ,hungarian restaurant in the rue ,rougemont4 ,there remain then to be mentioned only a few special establishments1 such as the ,pied de ,mouton near the ,central ,market1 and the famous tripe restaurant in the rue ,montorgueil4 ,there are several restaurants in ,paris which make a specialty of ,bouillabaisse2 but ,i do not recommend that dish in ,paris1 for the simple reason that it is not the real article4 ,in the ,parisian ,bouillabaisse several of the fish elements are wanting because they cannot bear transportation from the seaside4 ,the traveller gourmet will prefer to wait until chance leads him to ,marseilles1 where the reigning chief of the great dynasty of ,roubion will serve him this savoury dish on a balcony overlooking the blue ,mediterranean4 ,the caf concerts in the ,champs lyses are also much frequented by open air diners in the summer4 ,the spectacle is curious and amusing1 but the gourmet will flee the promiscuity and bustle of their dear and mediocre cuisine4 ,to give precise details as to price is difficult4 ,one may say generally that at the ,caf ,anglais two persons can dine delicately and well without stint as to good wines or choice of dishes1 for about two louis 7forty francs74 ,on the other hand1 the single man who is prepared to spend not less than seven francs on his dinner may enter boldly any restaurant in ,paris1 from the ,caf ,anglais downward1 and dine for that sum on soup1 one dish1 cheese1 and half a bottle of wine4 ,for ten or twelve francs one may dine simply but abundantly almost anywhere1 except at the very tip-top houses1 such as the ,caf ,anglais1 ,durand's1 and ,adolphe and ,pell's4 ,by way of practical hints ,i will subjoin a few observations4 ,beware of hors d'uvres and baskets of fruit1 for their influence on the total of your bill is alarming4 ,if you are alone1 resolutely refuse radishes and butter1 or rather leave them untouched on the table before you2 if you have invited a friend to dinner1 offer him hors d'uvres and hope that he will refuse2 if you are with a lady1 both hors d'uvres and the basket of fruit are obligatory4 ,eve offered fruit to ,adam2 the least we sons of ,adam can do is to return the politeness4 ,the real gourmet eats by candle-light1 because1 as ,nestor ,roqueplan said1 8rein n'est laid comme une sauce vue au soleil40 ,when you enter a restaurant refuse as a rule the place that is offered you4 ,choose your own table1 and if it is breakfast-time secure a view through the window and a view of the whole restaurant1 and if possible let the light strike on the table from your left hand4 ,preserve your freedom of will1 but do not try to impose it4 ,you are the master1 it is true1 and yet to a certain extent you must obey4 ,consult1 therefore1 with the matre d'htel1 consider what he recommends1 and accept it if it be to your taste1 for in the good restaurants there is no question of passing off stale food4 ,the matre d'htel is flattered when you ask his advice1 and it is his business to be acquainted with the special and daily resources of the larder4 ,at places like the ,caf ,anglais the written menu mentions only a few very ordinary dishes1 and you will inspire respect by not asking for the carte4 ,at ,bignon's do not trouble yourself about the carte2 ask advice of the portly ,louis1 and do not disdain his counsel4 ,in cookery as in love much confidence is necessary4 ,always ask for the wine list1 la carte des vins1 even if you end by selecting vin ordinaire4 ,the richest people in the land drink vin ordinaire with their dinner1 and dilute it with simple water4 ,the traveller1 therefore1 need not fear to do likewise even in the most gorgeous restaurants4 ,champagne is not much drunk by ,french gourmets1 and such champagnes as the ,paris restaurants keep is sweeter than our people generally like4 ,to the connoisseur in champagne ,i would say1 8,do not drink champagne in ,france1 for the best crs are to be found in ,england and ,russia40 ,if you desire fine red or white wines you will find the nomenclature and the prices on the list2 choose your ,beaune1 ,pomard1 ,volnay1 ,nuits1 or ,moulin ,vent1 your ,tavel1 ,tonnerre1 or ,chambertin according to your taste and purse2 consult confidentially with the butler1 and mind that you always address him as sommelier1 and not garon4 ,the sommelier is inferior to the garon in the hierarchy of table service1 as you will see from his more humble and respectful demeanor4 ,ask for l'addition1 and not either la carte or la note1 which savours of provincialism4 ,verify your change rapidly1 and see that no pieces lurk on the plate beneath the bill4 ,be liberal towards the waiter1 for it is the pourboire that secures you a smile when you arrive and a smile when you leave1 a helping hand when you are struggling into your overcoat1 obliging and ready service1 and the appearance1 nay1 even the reality of friendship4 ,in the three categories of restaurants mentioned above do not give the waiter less than fifty centimes1 however modest your bill1 and the more delicate and satisfactory your dinner1 the more liberal let your pourboire be1 ranging from one franc up to five1 calculated generally at the rate of five per cent4 on the total of your bill4 ,illustration ,,the ,,anglo-,,american ,,banking ,,co4 ,when ,americans have the facilities to execute a good idea they always possess the energy and the boldness to execute it in a fitting way4 ,thus instead of going into small quarters in an out of the way location1 the ,anglo-,american ,banking ,company of ,paris selected a large and imposing building1 fronting on two broad streets4 ,then with a liberal outlay of money they proceeded to fit up the different floors in luxurious style4 ,the site1 on the corner of ,chausse d',antin and ,rue ,meyerbeer1 half a block from the ,grand ,opera1 a step from the ,grand ,hotel1 and near some of the leading boulevards1 is at once choice1 central and accessible4 ,the ground floor of the building1 where money is exchanged and where letters of credit are cashed1 is roomy and has a solid and business-like appearance1 while the upper floors are furnished with an eye to convenience1 comfort and beauty4 ,it is here1 on this second floor1 where there are tastefully furnished rooms for ladies1 where desks are at hand for clients to conduct their correspondence1 and where the leading ,american1 ,english and ,french papers are kept on file in charge of a prompt-serving and careful attendant4 ,the bank is now established on a firm basis2 it has the confidence of the ,french people1 and it promises to become an 8institution0 in ,paris4 ,it is convenient to keep a small account at the bank1 drawing checks against it in making purchases in ,paris4 ,but the house can be used for any and every legitimate banking purpose1 and ,americans find it very useful as a place where their letters may be addressed1 where their letters of credit are cashed and where they may meet friends4 ,it has some of the features of a club1 and although only established a few years is now quite a popular rendezvous for ,americans4 ,the ,anglo-,american bank itself issues letters of credit payable all over the world4 ,the officers of the ,american ,banking ,company are ,s4 ,j4 ,gorman1 of ,new ,york1 president2 ,j4 ,l4 ,carr1 vice-president2 ,j4 ,h4 ,hobson1 of ,new ,york1 general manager2 ,edmond ,huerstel1 secretary4 ,cable address1 ,anabaco1 ,paris4 ,,au ,,bon ,,march4 ,everybody has heard of1 and all who have been to ,paris have visited ,au ,bon ,march1 world-renowned of dry goods establishments4 ,this great emporium was practically founded by ,jacques-,aristide ,boucicaut1 who1 beginning life in a small way in the dry goods business1 became partner1 and finally sole owner of the ,bon ,march4 ,once above the rank of ordinary employee1 he undertook to improve the moral and material condition of his fellow workmen4 ,he inaugurated free classes in the arts and sciences1 language1 music1 etc41 and established a provident fund for long service in the establishment1 supplied his employees with free medical attendance1 and in many other forms1 in addition to large outside charities and good works1 evidenced more than enough of the spirit to entitle him to the appellation of philanthropist4 ,at his death in #ahgg1 the annual returns from his business exceeded sixteen millions of dollars4 ,after his death his good works were continued by his widow1 who1 with an enormous fortune at her command1 dispensed it in extended and elaborate charities1 establishing the system of sharing of profits among her employees1 creating a retiring pension fund1 erecting and maintaining hospitals1 and at her death disposing of millions of francs to churches1 colleges1 and other public institutions4 ,mme4 ,boucicaut died ten years after her husband1 but the ,bon ,march still continues under the original plan and system of its founder4 ,there are three thousand six hundred employees1 and all the unmarried employees of the establishment board on the premises4 ,for the proper conduct of such a business the system of course must be perfect1 near as may be4 ,rules and regulations are set forth and strictly adhered to4 ,it is expressly provided that the food shall be wholesome and abundant4 ,a doctor is attached to the establishment who may be consulted by the employees free of charge4 ,any employee called for military service can1 at its expiration1 resume his situation4 ,no fines are inflicted under any circumstances4 ,the ,bon ,march forwards to any part of the globe all goods bought at the establishment1 and to nearly all the countries of ,europe1 including ,great ,britain1 it will forward free of charge for carriage any purchase to the amount of twenty-five francs 7five dollars74 ,a pretty souvenir volume is issued by the ,bon ,march4 ,it contains a useful indicator map of ,paris1 and a deal of interesting information about the great metropolis4 ,it may be obtained free upon application by postal card4 ,address simply1 ,au ,bon ,march1 ,paris4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,the ,,de ,,soto4 ,,savannah1 ,,georgia4 ,the city of ,savannah1 with its balmy air1 its far famed ,bonaventure ,cemetery1 its pretty parks1 broad streets and many natural attractions 7acknowledged to be one of the most attractive ,southern cities71 was long avoided by many pleasure tourists1 because it had no hotel worthy of a city claiming fifty thousand inhabitants and doing a business of over one hundred and thirty millions of dollars annually4 ,savannah is the greatest cotton port in the world--,new ,orleans excepted4 ,savannah has deep water and good docks4 ,sometimes as many as thirty ,english ships are in this port at the same time4 ,they take cotton direct to foreign ports4 ,savannah is easily approached from ,north and ,south3 presently it is to have communication with the west--direct from ,kansas ,city4 ,when these and other contemplated improvements are made1 ,savannah expects to experience an era of great prosperity4 ,it is predicted that the city will double its population in the next ten years4 ,anyone who doubts that ,savannah is steadily moving forward in prosperity has only to take a glimpse at the tax returns made to the city treasurer for #ahia1 to have the doubt quickly dispelled4 ,in #ahij1 the returns of personal property footed up #i1idh1jdh1 and in #ahia they were considerably over #aj1jjj1jjj1 the increase being about #ejj1jjj4 ,the banks alone in '#ia made returns of #ejf1jjj in excess of #ahij4 ,this shows that there is a great demand for banking institutions4 ,real estate has increased #a1cjj1jjj4 ,such being the present condition and future prospects of ,savannah1 it was time that some movement were made for the better entertainment of visitors1 so at last the citizens put their heads together and concluded that no matter how rich a city is in natural attractions1 the climax of success is only capped by railway facilities and first class hotels4 ,mr4 ,h4 ,b4 ,plant1 head of the ,plant ,system1 furnished the railway facilities1 and now the citizens of ,savannah have supplied the hotel4 ,they formed a stock company1 subscribed a million of dollars and opened the ,de ,soto1 two years ago1 which proved to be exteriorly one of the handsomest houses in this country1 if not in the world1 and interiorly one of the best appointed--in keeping with the ,american idea4 ,savannah never had a habit of going across the seas for hotel names4 ,it boasts of no ,victoria1 no ,buckingham1 no ,imperial1 but it has a ,screven1 named after a prominent ,georgia family2 a ,pulaski1 named for a military hero1 and now a ,de ,soto1 in honor of the discoverer of the ,mississippi river4 ,savannah is nothing if not patriotic4 ,it has a ,monterey square1 a ,forsyth park1 and among its monuments are the noble columns erected to perpetuate the memory of three revolutionary heroes--,jasper1 ,green and ,pulaski4 ,the ,de ,soto cost a round million of dollars4 ,it occupies1 but does not literally 8cover1 an entire block of ground10 as the writer of the little descriptive pamphlet has it4 ,the house is built in the form of a hollow square1 with entrances on three sides4 ,this plan of construction was adopted to leave a large open court in the centre1 thus securing an ample supply of light and air2 and the plan has succeeded to perfection4 ,the dining-room1 which seats nearly four hundred guests1 has air and light its full length1 on both sides4 ,some of the bedroom doors1 instead of wooden panels1 have panels of ground glass to let light into the halls4 ,the bedroom in which these lines are written is fifteen feet square1 not counting a deep recess for the windows1 of which there are two1 each measuring seven feet six by four feet six4 ,there is also a transom over the door4 ,to such an extent has this love of light been carried that even the elevator1 instead of being built with solid sides1 has sides of strong1 open wire work1 through which light and air stream freely4 ,the interior1 while being on a broad1 liberal1 yes1 a luxurious scale1 has no striking novelties4 ,it is modelled after the style of the large modern ,american hotels of the first-class4 ,there is a large and splendid 8office0 with reading-room1 smoking-room1 writing-room1 and small parlors branching off2 there are open fires and all the etceteras of convenience and luxury2 the whole ground floor is marble-tiled1 the corridors are ten feet wide and richly carpeted2 they lead on each side to an inviting veranda2 there is pure water from an artesian well and the sanitary arrangements are said to be scientifically correct4 ,the parlor1 with its onyx tables1 its gold-framed chairs1 delicate carpets1 its richly-embossed furniture covering1 its mirrors1 electric lights and the light-colored walls minus anything that suggests a work of art1 is1 to my mind1 rather cold and stiff4 ,i prefer the home-like drawing-room of the ,imperial ,hotel in ,aberdeen1 ,scotland1 with its profusion of fresh flowers1 its cabinets and pretty things1 or say1 the drawing-room of the ,langham ,hotel1 ,london1 rich and pleasing in subdued1 dark colors2 but the ,de ,soto is an ,american hotel1 it is kept after the ,american methods1 and without doubt the parlor suits to perfection those for whom it is furnished--then why should anybody criticise its decorations8 ,but the exterior with its novel and beautiful construction1 a combination of architectural styles forming a very pleasing whole1 commands instant admiration4 ,there are towers1 turrets1 arched entrances1 ,queen ,anne windows1 fountains and a number of overhanging red-tiled roofs through which waterspouts project in picturesque fashion4 ,the walls are of brick in two different colors with terra cotta trimmings1 railings and ornaments of black iron4 ,all of these materials and colors are used with skill and the very best taste1 making an artistic combination which is remarkably pleasing4 ,then the graceful palm trees here and there give the surroundings a tropical appearance and serve to add to the beautiful picture4 ,the site of the ,de ,soto was well chosen4 ,all of the four streets on which it is built being wide1 ample opportunity is afforded to admire from a distance its lines of beauty4 ,its main front is on a very wide street1 ,liberty street1 probably not quite so broad as ,unter den ,linden in ,berlin1 nor has it the grand palaces of that renowned ,german street2 but ,liberty street is neat1 clean and kept in good order1 which is more than can be said of ,unter den ,linden4 ,the sidewalks are of smooth-faced red brick2 between them and the roadway on either side there is a row of trees4 ,there is another row of trees1 also a car track1 in the middle of the street1 and on either side of the track again there is an asphalt drive for carriages4 ,there is abundant space1 and although it lacks the solid buildings of larger cities1 the street itself is not lacking in attractions4 ,within five minutes' walk of the house is ,forsyth park1 with its acres of forest trees1 and plenty of japonicas and roses in full bloom at this writing1 ,january #bf4 ,in the centre of this park there is a handsome fountain1 modeled after the grand fountain in the ,place de la ,concorde1 ,paris4 ,it is a mistake and a pity to half hide it behind japonica trees and rose bushes1 from six to eight feet high4 ,it is very enjoyable to sit in any of ,savannah's pretty parks these days1 say between noon and four o'clock4 ,there is no danger of taking nor of feeling cold4 ,at night and in the early morn the air is cool 7#cf to #db degrees71 but in the afternoon it is soft and balmy--anywhere from #ef to #gf degrees4 ,it is an old habit of mine to carry a thermometer in my satchel1 so ,i am not dependent on the hotel instrument nor on hearsay for my facts and figures concerning the temperature4 ,frost is rarely seen in ,savannah1 and they never get a sight of snow unless some of the 8beautiful0 article should remain on the car roofs of trains coming from the ,north4 ,the ,de ,soto can accommodate four hundred guests1 and besides1 the dining-room and the smaller 8early breakfast-room0 on the main floor1 there is a banqueting hall on the first floor in which two hundred guests can sit down comfortably4 ,a novel feature for a hotel is a gymnasium1 on the sixth floor1 and above this1 at the very summit1 there is a large 8,solarium10 fitted up with chairs1 tables and lounges4 ,here you can sit1 bask in the sun1 and1 as ,walt ,whitman says1 8loaf and invite your soul40 ,in this elevated position you get a magnificent view of ,savannah and the surrounding country--as far east as the ,tybee coast1 twenty miles distant4 ,there are in all three hundred and thirty-eight bedrooms1 forty parlors and sixty bath-rooms in the house1 affording many choice suites for families4 ,there are no dark rooms nor inner rooms2 all have a street view1 a park view1 or look out upon the court-yard4 ,every room has a wardrobe built in the wall1 and this is covered by a tasteful portire4 ,all the carpets and draperies1 by the way1 came from ,w4 ,j4 ,sloane1 and the electroliers and gasoliers were supplied by ,archer1 ,pancoast ,co41 both leading ,new ,york houses in their respective branches4 ,a band of twelve pieces 7,cobb's ,savannah ,band7 performs excellent music in an alcove near the dining-room during the luncheon and dinner hours4 ,the house has been leased for fifteen years by ,watson ,powers1 who have had long experience in ,charleston and other hotels4 ,they kept the ,pulaski ,house here1 as a colored driver told me in answer to a question1 8a right smart time10 which still leaves the number of years rather indefinite4 ,the same gentleman and brother1 who drive carriages for the house1 and who drove me through ,bonaventure ,cemetery1 said that the fire of two years ago1 which burned for two days1 destroyed the 8#8,sonic ,hall40 ,he also volunteered this piece of intelligence3 8,der ,pulaski ,house is makin' a very big condition10 which ,i translated to mean addition4 ,my esteemed friend1 ,mr4 ,marcus ,wight and his charming wife1 of ,lowell1 ,mass41 were our travelling companions for that day1 and their delightful company enhanced the interest and the enjoyment of the drive4 ,if you desire to see a hotel which contains all the latest and best ,american ideas1 and1 unlike the hotels of ,europe1 combines them into a perfect system1 telegraph for rooms to the ,de ,soto4 ,it is advisable to take it in1 as a resting place1 between ,new ,york and ,florida1 or vice versa4 99 99 99 99 99 ,p4 ,s4--,this is called a cold winter in ,savannah1 yet at six ,a4,m41 ,thursday1 ,january #bi1 the thermometer marked sixty degrees4 ,,thomasville1 ,,georgia4 ,time1 eleven ,a4,m41 ,february #a4--,your correspondent is seated at his bedroom window2 there are two large windows in the room1 and both are wide open4 ,the apartment is twenty feet square with a twelve-foot ceiling2 it is not heated artificially and yet the temperature in it is seventy-two degrees4 ,this is not said from hearsay1 nor is the record taken from a hotel thermometer1 which may be unreliable1 but from a portable thermometer of my own4 ,,when ,,the ,,place ,,was ,,settled4--,people ask1 8,how old is ,thomasville3 when was it first settled80 ,the writer can answer this question because he had the good fortune to be presented to no less a personage than ,mrs4 ,m4 ,a4 ,bower1 a most charming woman to look at and to converse with1 who is proud of her fifty-six years1 but whom you would judge to be at least ten years younger4 ,mrs4 ,bower was the first white child born in ,thomasville1 and in the first real house erected in the place4 ,it stood on the present site of the ,mitchell ,house4 ,mrs4 ,bower is the daughter of ,colonel and ,mrs4 ,edward ,remington who came here from ,pawtuxet1 ,r4 ,i41 in the year #ahbh4 ,set it down for a fact then that ,thomasville is three score years old4 ,,location4--,thomasville1 the capital of ,thomas county 7this is not from a gazetteer1 please believe71 stands three hundred and thirty feet above sea level1 being on the highest ground between ,macon and the ,gulf of ,mexico1 in the ,uplands of ,georgia4 ,it is two hundred miles from the ,atlantic1 sixty miles from the ,gulf of ,mexico as the bird flies1 twelve miles from the ,florida ,state line1 a thirty-three-mile drive from ,tallahassee1 and is reached from ,jacksonville at the ,south or from ,savannah coming from the ,north in a few hours by way of ,waycross or ,jesup1 two places not particularly attractive to the tourist but quite useful as way stations1 affording junctions for several lines of railroad4 ,,health ,,and ,,pleasure4--,thomasville was at one time simply a health resort3 people with consumption or other lung or throat diseases came here for relief and they found it4 ,they1 the sickly people1 still come to get well2 but beside being a health resort it is now also a place for pleasure4 ,fashion has set its seal on ,thomasville4 ,new ,york and ,boston are well represented among the visitors1 but the ,west especially favors ,thomasville1 and ,st4 ,paul1 for its size1 sends more people probably than any other city4 ,a number of ,st4 ,paul citizens have cottages here and have set up fine establishments4 ,ladies dress for the morning ride or drive2 they dress for the mid-day dinner and again for the evening dance4 ,ladies at the hotels exchange visits with the cottagers1 also with the townspeople1 the permanent residents giving strangers a warm1 ,southern welcome4 ,,features ,,of ,,the ,,town4--,to-day ,thomasville has churches of all denominations 7including a ,jewish place of worship71 two hotels far superior to any between ,baltimore and ,jacksonville1 unless exception be made of the new ,oglethorpe at ,brunswick2 a number of smaller hotels1 numerous boarding houses1 two daily newspapers1 several good private schools1 a flourishing college for girls and one for the other sex1 a railway direct to the town--and five thousand inhabitants4 ,the boys' college is a branch of the ,state ,university and has at present two hundred and fifty pupils4 ,the other institution1 called 8,young's ,female ,college10 was endowed by a ,georgian1 and the charge for tuition is so low as to be nominal1 ten dollars per year to each pupil4 ,so the religiously inclined have ample opportunity to worship at their particular shrine1 and the educational advantages of ,thomasville are good4 ,,nature',s ,,gifts4--,the reputation of this place was gained by its dry and balmy atmosphere1 its even temperature1 its health-giving pine forests and by its freedom from cold or sudden changes4 ,the ,united ,states ,signal ,service report shows that the average winter temperature is about fifty-five degrees1 and the average temperature last ,july1 the hottest month here1 was eighty-two degrees4 ,while the winter days are warm the mornings and nights are pleasantly cool1 and it never snows here4 ,once during the past fourteen years they did have a flurry of snow4 ,it happened on a ,sunday and the churches remained empty2 so interested were the inhabitants in the uncommon sight that they neglected the church and all took to snowballing4 ,you need no overcoats nor wraps for outdoor wear1 except1 perhaps1 for an evening drive1 or for rainy days2 but an umbrella or parasol to protect you from the heat of the sun is indispensable4 ,i am speaking of needing such an article at the present time1 ,february #a4 ,,the ,,piney ,,woods ,,oak4--,to those coming from the ,north the sight of the trees in full leaf is as agreeable as it is strange4 ,the pine1 live-oak1 hemlock and holly all have their branches thickly covered4 ,there is a gorgeous live-oak on the grounds of the ,piney ,woods ,hotel whose spreading branches measure sixty feet across4 ,there is still a larger one in the town1 which people travel miles to see4 ,it spreads ninety feet across4 ,but beauty does not always consist in bigness4 ,the ,piney ,woods oak is both beautiful and big1 but its symmetrical beauty is its main attraction4 ,is it too warm on the hotel porch8 ,are the sun's rays too fierce8 ,cross over the road1 fifty yards distant1 and seek a comfortable bench or rustic seat in the grateful shade of the pines1 in what is popularly termed 8,yankee ,paradise10 but known more correctly as ,paradise ,park4 ,it includes thirty acres laid out in walks and drives4 ,there is no ice to make your step unsteady1 but the needles of the pines render the paths rather slippery4 ,,when ,,to ,,come4--,you can pick violets in the open air and pluck in the fields a small bouquet of daisies at this writing1 but to see ,thomasville at its best1 ,i am told that you must come a little later than this1 when the grass is all green4 ,you can then pluck wild roses to your heart's content4 ,then the pear orchards will be in full bloom1 and the dogwood blossoms are a sight to behold4 ,i have been here only three days and have seen no rain1 but the soil is sandy and one can readily believe what enthusiasts say1 that an hour or two after a long and heavy rain walking is again pleasant1 the rain having percolated through the ground1 leaving the surface perfectly dry1 if not hard4 ,and there is seemingly no end of lovely walks4 ,you get out of the town in five minutes1 and if you are bent on pedestrian exercise1 and have an eye for beautiful scenes1 turn your steps in any direction and you will make no mistake4 ,,what ,,to ,,bring4--,if the ladies of your party are equestriennes1 by all means let them bring their riding habits with them3 everybody rides4 ,driving1 too1 is largely indulged in1 the roads being hard1 smooth and unusually wide4 ,they extend for miles and miles through the pine woods1 and their picturesque beauty you will please imagine2 it is not easy to describe it without using more adjectives than ,i have at my command en route4 ,to sportsmen let me say1 do not come without your dog and gun or you will never forget nor forgive the error4 ,wild turkeys abound1 there are snipe in plenty and quail can be bagged by a novice4 ,you see them on the road while driving1 and the crack of the rifle is heard almost constantly4 ,quail on toast is a regular dish at the hotels at least once a day4 ,,the ,,negro ,,and ,,his ,,works4--,without desiring to attack political problems1 to raise dead issues or to discuss questions that have long since been answered1 one cannot resist the temptation to obtain information on the result of the emancipation proclamation1 for although it is over a quarter of a century old the subject yet has great interest for this country1 and for other countries also1 for that matter4 ,here is a statement of facts and figures in condensed1 nutshell form upon which chapters and books might be written--the colored population of ,georgia pay taxes on real estate amounting to twelve millions of dollars1 the realty being estimated at about one half its actual value1 and their personal property is estimated at about six millions of dollars4 ,there are instances of marked faithfulness and attachment of slaves to their former owners1 some of the blacks still serving their white masters4 ,among the servants of ,mrs4 ,m4 ,a4 ,bower1 proprietor of the ,piney ,woods ,hotel1 are two who formerly served this same 8master10 one of them being the skilful pastry-cook of the hotel4 ,negroes say that the whites and work do not agree4 ,possibly not2 they are unaccustomed to labor hard in this section1 and on the other hand whites claim that the colored are by nature more fitted for work in such a climate4 ,be that as it may1 it is certain that the colored people of the ,south are not over fond of work1 either3 you cannot depend upon their working regularly4 ,so soon as they can put enough by to keep them in cracked wheat or hominy and a little tobacco the colored laborers are likely to throw up a job1 and are not over particular if they occasionally leave an employer in the lurch4 ,if you are a new settler and are building a house1 for instance1 they will have no compunction about leaving you some fine morning1 or some wet afternoon1 before your house is roofed in4 ,of clothing for warmth they need little1 and the weather never being severe their log cabins or pine huts need not be very tight3 if they shed the rain that is all that is necessary for them4 ,,the ,,chain ,,gang4--,the jail at ,thomasville was not near large enough until a new plan of punishment was adopted4 ,the colored roughs committed small offences for the very purpose of getting into prison2 in that way obtaining food and shelter1 and at the same time 8doin' nuffin40 ,not so now3 the town council met and adopted the resolution that prisoners should be made to work1 and that is how the 8chain gang0 came into existence4 ,you will see gangs of colored men repairing the roads and engaged in other public works on the highway4 ,they wear a striped uniform after the prevailing fashion at our ,state prisons4 ,the two legs of each man are held close enough together by iron chains to prevent the action of running1 but yet the chains afford him sufficient freedom to move about and make himself useful with pick and shovel4 ,it is a novel sight for a stranger to meet one of these gangs on the road1 and the clank of the locked iron links has a strange and weird sound4 ,to their credit be it said1 the men are ashamed of their public disgrace1 and the ,thomasville prison is now large enough to hold all the applicants for admission4 ,making the negro work and making him a public show have had good effect4 ,such a plan is of course not feasible for cities1 but it might be adopted with a degree of success in thinly populated districts of ,northern ,states4 ,tramps give ,thomasville a wide berth4 ,if one of the genus unwittingly wanders that way he is given his choice3 he must leave at once or join the chain gang and work for thirty days4 ,,upland ,,products4--,cotton is still king in the ,south1 and ,georgia produces its full share1 but ,thomas county is also noted for oats4 ,more oats are produced in ,thomas county than in any other county in the ,united ,states4 ,this ,i have from one of the prominent citizens of the town1 whose information is as extensive as the manner of imparting his knowledge is agreeable4 ,if you come to ,thomasville try to meet ,dr4 ,bower4 ,he practices his profession no longer1 being interested in many large enterprises4 ,he can give you more interesting information concerning these parts than probably any other person hereabouts4 ,but you must allow a little for ,dr4 ,bower's enthusiasm4 ,he is apt to look at ,thomasville and ,thomas county through a rose-colored glass4 ,from ,dr4 ,bower your correspondent learned1 among other things1 that the ,le ,conte pear1 which grows in such profusion here and in ,florida1 was brought to this country from ,china about fifty years ago1 and propagated by ,commodore ,le ,conte1 a ,georgian of ,french descent4 ,it does not equal the ,bartlett in flavor1 but its skin is tougher1 and it bears transportation better4 ,you may see orchards containing thousands of trees1 and the trees average a production of twelve to fifteen bushels4 ,some trees are said to yield as many as thirty-five bushels4 ,they boast here of the largest pear orchard in the world--two hundred and twenty-five acres4 ,last year twenty-five thousand crates of pears were shipped from ,thomasville to cities in the ,north and ,west4 ,some found their way to the ,new ,england summer resorts1 and were received with favor4 ,still1 from all ,i can learn1 while the ,north has its ,bartlett1 it need not envy the ,south its ,le ,conte4 ,,the ,,poor ,,kine4--,it is conceded that they raise here in abundance cotton1 oats and pears1 and that pine trees1 roses1 magnolias1 quail1 figs1 and other good things grow in profusion1 but1 on the other hand1 the live stock is very poor indeed and meats must come all the way from ,new ,york if people demand meat that is good and nutritious4 ,that is where all the meat comes from which is consumed at the hotels4 ,it almost makes your heart ache to see the poor1 weak oxen that are forced to work1 and the thin1 bony cows that must yield their milk4 ,it may be different in summer time1 when the grass is rich1 but the cattle seem to be very poorly fed now1 or not fed at all4 ,they are allowed to roam freely about the streets and byways of the town1 and pick up1 by day or night1 what they can find4 ,,the ,,winn ,,farm4--,an exception to this rule must be made in favor of ,winn ,farm1 a tract of eighteen hundred acres1 owned by ,f4 ,j4 ,winn1 several hundred acres of which are under cultivation4 ,the stock there looks better than the animals you see in ,thomasville proper1 and for which you have nothing but sympathy4 ,they make good wine1 too1 at ,winn ,farm1 and it is offered in hospitable quantities from the hand of an attractive1 cultivated woman1 the presiding genius of the place1 ,mrs4 ,f4 ,j4 ,winn4 ,the luscious1 juicy oranges which are put on the tables of the ,piney ,woods ,hotel in such liberal measure1 come from the grove on ,indian ,river1 ,florida1 owned and cultivated by ,dr4 ,bower4 ,the grove contains four or five thousand orange trees in bearing4 ,,the ,,hotels4--,there is a standing joke about certain ,southern cities where there are only two hotels1 that1 whichever one you select1 you will wish that you had chosen the other4 ,although the hotels south of the line have greatly improved of late years1 the old joke will still apply in certain towns and cities4 ,not so1 however1 at ,thomasville4 ,there are only two hotels here known to fame1 and you will make no mistake if you select either4 ,it is a matter of surprise to find two such hotels in such a comparatively small town4 ,the ,mitchell ,house and the ,piney ,woods ,hotel 7,i take them alphabetically7 are both large1 new1 handsomely furnished and perfectly appointed houses1 containing all the modern improvements1 and erected with strict regard for the laws of sanitation4 ,the ,mitchell ,house is an imposing solid brick structure1 four stories high1 two hundred feet square1 with a cultivated park of two acres sweeping before its front piazza4 ,this little park is reserved for the hotel guests and their friends4 ,the ,piney ,woods ,hotel is within gun-shot distance of the ,mitchell ,house1 on the same street1 with a front measuring three hundred and fifty feet1 the other side overlooking ,paradise ,park1 of which ,i have already spoken4 ,the ,piney ,woods stands1 as it were1 and as its name might indicate1 on the very edge of the pine forests1 and yet it is only a five minutes' walk from the post-office and a ten minutes' drive from the depot4 ,the pamphlet issued by the proprietor tells you that 8the ,piney ,woods is modelled similar to the ,grand ,union ,hotel1 at ,saratoga ,springs10 but this is a mistake of the compiler of the work1 and is no compliment at all to the house under consideration--which is far more pleasing to the eye1 exteriorly1 than the ,grand ,union at ,saratoga4 ,the ,piney ,woods is built after plans of ,j4 ,a4 ,woods1 a ,new ,york architect1 who planned the new ,grand ,hotel in the ,catskill ,mountains1 and with its wide and lofty verandas1 its projecting towers1 its pretty corners here and there1 is a facsimile on a somewhat smaller scale of that favorite and beautiful house4 ,any one who has seen the hotel on the line of the ,ulster and ,delaware ,railway1 can picture to himself the ,piney ,woods ,hotel at ,thomasville4 ,the late ,captain ,gillette1 who kept the ,mountain ,hotel1 kept this one also for years4 ,william ,e4 ,davies is now the manager of the ,piney ,woods4 ,each hotel1 the ,mitchell ,house and the ,piney ,woods1 will accommodate nearly three hundred guests4 ,,the ,,best ,,route4--,the ,atlantic ,coast ,line1 called 8the short route to ,florida10 is by all odds the best way to reach ,thomasville from the ,eastern ,states and from ,new ,york4 ,the vestibule train1 8the ,florida special0 of the ,pennsylvania ,railroad1 which traverses this route1 is the quickest and most luxurious train1 with its dining-room car1 library car1 etc41 but this only leaves ,new ,york on certain days of the week1 and you must apply for seats a long time ahead1 and then you may not get them4 ,the ordinary trains1 with ,pullman sleepers1 are good enough for the majority of travellers1 and they afford people opportunity to stop over and see the cities en route--,washington1 ,richmond1 ,wilmington1 ,n4 ,c41 ,charleston and ,savannah4 ,or1 if you prefer1 you may come direct from ,new ,york1 in about thirty-two hours1 to ,waycross1 ,ga41 where there is connection for ,thomasville1 distant four hours4 ,but if you 8stop over10 you must be prepared to travel in ordinary coaches between the ,southern cities2 parlor cars are not attached to local trains4 ,it would help ,thomasville materially if the ,savannah1 ,western and ,florida ,road 7everybody in this section calls it 8the ,s4 ,f4 ,w407 were to run a quick train with a parlor car to meet the ,florida special4 ,the return would not be great at first1 but it would prove profitable to the road ultimately4 ,washington1 ,d4 ,c41 seems to be especially favored3 the ,atlantic ,coast ,line runs a ,pullman buffet sleeping car for ,washington passengers direct to ,thomasville4 ,strangers and tourists make it a point to go to the stations to see the ,pennsylvania vestibule train at different points of the road1 and the colored folk stand and stare at the beautiful appointments with eyes and mouth wide open4 8,only ,god's people10 remarked one surprised darkey1 8can ride in them carriages40 ,illustration ,a ,,new ,,southern ,,resort4 ,if you tell people in ,new ,york that you are 8going to ,brunswick for the winter10 they will probably look at you with surprise2 some will say1 8,do you mean ,new ,brunswick80 having in mind ,new ,brunswick1 ,n4,j42 while others will say1 8,brunswick2 where is ,brunswick1 in what ,state8 ,i never heard of it40 ,well1 new as ,brunswick may appear to the majority1 it is an old place1 having been settled and laid out in the year #agfc4 ,,where ,,is ,,brunswick8--,brunswick is in the ,southeastern part of ,georgia1 not far from the ,florida border1 sixty miles below ,savannah1 seventy miles north of ,jacksonville4 ,the city covers an area of two miles square1 and is handsomely laid out1 the whole adorned by some of the most beautiful groves of live oaks and cedars to be found in the ,south4 ,it is situated on a small peninsula jutting out into the sea1 surrounded on three sides by salt water1 but protected from the severity of the ocean winds by outlying islands4 ,brunswick is only eight miles from the sea and there are no fresh water streams or swamps within many miles to breed malaria1 the air being constantly renewed and vivified by the health-bearing breezes of the ocean1 that render it1 as official statistics show1 one of the healthiest cities in the ,union4 ,among its natural advantages are its climate1 uniform and mild in winter1 its geographical position being but little north of ,st4 ,augustine1 ice being seldom seen1 and snow rarely1 if ever2 its forests of pine1 palm and moss-covered oak1 its healthy soil1 pure water1 semi-tropical foliage and plants1 the magnificent drives1 and last1 but by no means least1 its superior water facilities1 having one of the finest harbors in the ,south ,atlantic4 ,as to the trees3 ,i have stood under the far-famed old oaks of ,england1 ,i have seen the moss-covered trees of ,bonaventure1 of which all ,savannah proudly boasts1 and admired the great oak at ,thomasville1 whose branches measure ninety feet across2 but there is an oak here which belittles them all for age1 strength and size4 ,under the 8,lovers' ,oak0 at ,brunswick it is said that one hundred teams can find shelter from the sun's rays4 ,it is called ,lovers' ,oak because a marriage was once performed under it1 several hundred witnesses being present at the open air ceremony4 ,,jekyl ,,and ,,other ,,islands4--,there are a number of beautiful islands near here which are fertile almost beyond one's imagination4 ,everybody has heard of ,jekyl ,island1 and all true sportsmen know it4 ,it is famous as the location of one of the finest club-houses in the country1 the island being a paradise for the sportsman and fisherman4 ,it is literally full of game2 deer1 wild turkey and other fowl are so plentiful that visitors are sure of good sport4 ,being a natural game preserve1 upon which the general public have not been permitted to hunt1 the increase has been rapid and the supply practically inexhaustible4 ,the club-house1 seen from the river1 is a noble structure4 ,then there is ,st4 ,simon's ,island1 which lies off the coast at a distance of seven miles from ,brunswick1 and is noted for the wonderful fertility of its soil4 ,it excels especially in fruits--oranges1 peaches1 figs1 bananas1 olives1 lemons1 limes and pecans1 growing in great profusion4 ,the climate is almost perfection4 ,ice is seldom seen1 and snow has been seen here but once within the present century1 ,a ,,doctor',s ,,certificate4--,brunswick's peninsular location1 almost surrounded by salt water1 with immense pine forests on the north1 extending hundreds of miles into the interior1 conduces to a state of healthfulness excelled by no other place of its population in the whole ,south4 ,dr4 ,h4 ,buford1 ,health ,officer of the ,city of ,brunswick1 makes the following official statement3 8,the result of my observation and experience as a practitioner in this city and in the country adjacent thereto1 during a residence of seven years1 proves that our mortuary statistics show a minimum death rate--,poughkeepsie1 ,n4 ,y41 not excepted4 ,during an active practice of seven years ,i cannot record a single case of scarlet fever or diphtheria4 ,hay fever and asthma are unknown here40 ,a ,,mistake ,,of ,,congress4--,brunswick is a century and a quarter old1 but it went along lazily and slowly1 like many other ,southern towns and villages1 and the war somewhat retarded its progress4 ,nor was it helped by a committee from ,congress which1 some years after the war1 took a cruise along the ,atlantic coast to examine the facilities of our seaports4 ,congress has not earned its peculiar reputation without deserving it4 ,this committee may have included members who were learned in the law1 or who knew how to hoe potatoes1 but of harbor advantages and the requirements of ships they must have been innocently ignorant4 ,they reported that 8the harbor of ,brunswick was twelve feet deep40 ,this went abroad and ships went elsewhere4 ,how near to the truth came this report may be judged by one instance4 ,on ,friday1 ,february #c1 #ahhh1 the ,english steamer1 the ,port ,augusta1 cleared this port drawing twenty feet of water and carrying #f1eei bales of cotton1 weighing over three millions of pounds and valued at #cjj1jjj4 ,it was the largest cargo ever cleared from a ,south ,atlantic port1 and ships drawing twenty-four feet of water enter and leave here without the slightest danger of touching bottom4 ,so much for the congressional report4 ,that the shipping facilities of ,brunswick are becoming known may be judged also from the following facts and figures3 ,during the whole month of ,february1 #ahhg1 the exports of cotton1 naval stores and lumber amounted to #gh1jjj while for only the first five days of ,feb41 #ahhh1 the exports amounted to over #cjj1jjj4 ,these figures are given on official authority from the collector of the port4 ,are more significant statements needed to show the marvellous advance and improvement of this place8 ,here they are--the exports in the year #ahhf amounted to less than a million dollars2 in #ahhg they footed up over two and a quarter millions4 ,the imports of #ahhf were less than #e1jjj1 the imports of #ahhg1 #dh1jjj4 ,a ,,city ,,by ,,the ,,sea4--,how has all this seeming prosperity and increase of business on the water affected the land8 ,well1 in #ahhd the population of ,brunswick was #c1jjj1 four years later it was #h1jjj2 the increase of taxable property was thirty-three per cent1 greater in '#hg than '#hf2 the comptroller of the ,state says that this county 7,glynn7 has made for the last twelve months a larger pro rata increase than any other county in the ,state of ,georgia1 for eight years ago there was not a brick building in the place2 now there are blocks and blocks of brick stores and fine dwellings2 increase in the value of the land is almost fabulous1 and there is a new brick hotel here1 8the ,oglethorpe10 which cost with furniture1 #afj1jjj1 the equal of which for site and style cannot be found between ,washington1 ,d4,c41 and ,st4 ,augustine1 ,fla4 ,,the ,,oglethorpe4--,the new hotel is an evidence of and in keeping with the new order of things4 ,the location of the building is choice--on the highest ground in ,brunswick1 affording fine views and rare sanitary facilities4 ,the house is not merely considered to be1 but is fire-proof4 ,so perfect is the protection against fire that the company insuring the property reduced the usual hotel rate one-half in consideration of the character of the building and the excellence of the fire system adopted4 ,the ,oglethorpe stands on the principal street1 near the railway depot and steamboat wharf1 on a plot of ground about three hundred feet square1 the main building having three stories and being two hundred and sixty-seven feet long1 with wings running back one hundred and forty feet4 ,it is the largest building in the place1 and with its graceful round brick towers at each corner1 and its turrets and spires jutting through the roof1 here and there1 it is the most prominent object you see as you approach ,brunswick from any direction1 either by land or water4 ,the ,oglethorpe1 being new1 is the latest exponent of all that is best and most approved in modern hotel building1 and of course has all the 8modern improvements40 ,the drawing-room is a grand apartment1 reminding you of the parlor of the ,united ,states at ,saratoga2 the dining-room is lighted from three sides1 and seats three hundred persons2 the main floor1 the entrance1 office and lower hall are tiled with ,georgia marble in beautiful colors1 and there is a covered porch for promenading which reaches up to the second story4 ,it is two hundred and forty feet long1 and from twenty to twenty-five feet wide4 ,the bedrooms of the ,oglethorpe are larger1 as a rule1 than those of most hotels4 ,even the 8small rooms0 connecting with the suites are twenty feet long by eleven wide1 and have two windows1 each seven feet high by three feet wide4 ,the 8tower0 rooms1 with their open fire-places1 carved wooden mantels1 tiled hearths1 rich ,moquette carpets1 portires of velours1 and lace curtains on brass poles are as handsome as the bedrooms of any other hotel that the writer has seen1 and if the walls and ceilings were artistically decorated and frescoed1 the 8tower0 rooms of the ,oglethorpe probably might compare with those palatial bedrooms of the ,hotel ,mtropole in ,london4 ,a peculiarity of the ,oglethorpe is that there are no back rooms2 each one faces the street or overlooks the bay1 but a few hundred feet distant4 ,between the bay and the house the grounds of the hotel are attractively laid out4 ,as to the table and general management of the ,oglethorpe1 it is only necessary to say that the manager is ,warren ,leland1 ,jr41 a member of the celebrated ,leland family--a name long associated with some of the leading hotels in the ,united ,states4 ,,en ,,route ,,to ,,and ,,from ,,florida4--,brunswick is reached by rail from the ,north by the ,atlantic ,coast ,line and the ,savannah1 ,florida and ,western ,railroad by way of ,savannah and ,waycross1 ,ga41 and from ,jacksonville1 ,florida1 by railway to ,fernandina in one hour1 and thence by steamboat in four hours4 ,the water route is very pleasant4 ,the boats1 if not splendid specimens of naval architecture1 are at least staunch and comfortable4 ,you take an inside route1 hug the shore1 pass many beautiful islands and get glimpses of most picturesque scenes4 ,tourists contemplating a visit to ,florida for health or pleasure do well to break the journey at ,waycross or ,jessup1 visit ,brunswick and see the charming country thereabouts4 ,the run is made from ,waycross to ,brunswick in three hours and ten minutes4 ,the route ,southward is from ,new ,york to ,quantico1 ,va41 over the ,pennsylvania tracks2 from ,richmond to ,charleston via ,atlantic ,coast ,line2 from ,waycross to ,brunswick by the ,plant system4 ,leave ,new ,york 7,desbrosses or ,cortlandt streets7 at #i ,p4,m4 or midnight--through car to ,waycross4 ,illustration ,a ,,cuban ,,city ,,in ,,the ,,united ,,states4 ,,key ,,west1 ,february1 #ahia4 ,key ,west1 in ,spanish ,cayo ,hueso 7,bone ,island71 derived its name1 so says history1 from the fact that the island was strewn with human bones4 ,the conquerors didn't take time to bury the bones of the conquered4 ,the change1 corruption ,spaniards call it1 from ,cayo ,hueso to ,key ,west was easy4 ,the ,united ,states bought the island from ,spain in #ahaf4 ,the formation is coral and it contains about two thousand acres4 ,the ,hon4 ,c4 ,b4 ,pendleton1 editor and proprietor of the ,equator-,democrat1 and a man of culture who has served in the ,state ,senate1 showed me an island1 or key1 as they call it in these parts1 distant from ,key ,west five miles1 and which he believed to be the most southerly point in the ,united ,states4 ,another authority informed me that ,cape ,sable1 distant from ,key ,west about sixty miles1 is the most southerly point4 ,to quote ,editor ,pendleton1 ,key ,west is distant from the tropical line only thirteen miles4 ,doctors will differ2 another authority gives it as sixty miles4 ,i am inclined to think that on the tropical question my editorial brother is correct in his estimate1 because ,key ,west is only distant from ,cuba eighty or ninety miles4 ,the climate is about the same as that of ,havana4 ,in the ,cuban capital the mercury never goes below sixty degrees2 in ,key ,west the lowest point recorded is fifty-one4 ,key ,west is the ninth port of entry in the ,united ,states1 collecting more import duty than all the other ports in the ,states of ,florida and ,georgia and one-half of ,alabama combined4 ,in #ahfj the population was about two thousand1 one-quarter of whom were colored2 but in #ahfi1 after the rebellion in ,cuba1 the population of the island began to increase and now it numbers twenty-two thousand1 and they claim that it is the largest city in ,florida4 ,the inhabitants are mixed1 very much mixed--,cubans1 negroes1 ,americans1 ,chinese1 etc4 ,the negroes come from ,nassau1 ,cuba and other places4 ,key ,west was bought of ,spain1 as before remarked2 the island is nearer ,cuba than any other land1 it is not in any sense ,american except that it flies the ,american flag1 and it seems to be now1 to all intents and purposes1 a foreign place--a ,spanish colony1 as it once was4 ,spanish is the prevailing language1 and ,cubans predominate4 ,all the public notices and handbills are printed in two languages1 several newspapers are printed in ,spanish1 and only one1 the ,equator-,democrat1 in ,english4 ,it is difficult to make a purchase or to transact any business unless you speak ,spanish1 and there are few drivers or conductors of street cars who can understand you if addressed in ,english4 ,the car drivers swear at their patient1 sadly abused mules in hard ,spanish4 ,all the ,american residents and business men speak the prevailing tongue1 or are learning it as fast as they can1 for without it they cannot so readily conduct business4 ,speaking of the street cars1 they are all open1 of course1 winter and summer4 ,in fact1 there is never anything resembling northern winter weather in ,key ,west2 light summer clothes and ,panama hats are worn the year round4 ,but you are not obliged to patronize street cars4 ,riding in private conveyances is at a cheaper rate of fare than even in ,london1 or in a country town on the ,continent4 ,in ,london the smallest cab fare is one shilling 7twenty-five cents72 in ,key ,west you can ride a short distance for a dime1 and a longer distance for fifteen cents4 ,the conveyance is a very light and very dirty wagonette on four wheels4 ,the driver is as dirty as his vehicle1 and his horse resembles those poor skeletons which are blindfolded and pushed into the arena at a ,cuban bull fight4 ,such tropical fruits as the sugar apple1 the guava1 mango1 the soft and sweet sapadillo1 thrive in ,key ,west4 ,the climate and salt atmosphere combine to make it the home of the palm4 ,there are many tall1 slender and beautiful cocoanut trees1 some with their graceful leaves waving as high as eighty feet in the air1 making an interesting and pretty picture against a cloudless sky4 ,but the cultivation of the cocoanut in ,key ,west might be made very profitable as well as picturesque4 ,at present there are comparatively few of such trees2 their cultivation ought to be encouraged4 ,the tree has no tap root1 and will thrive on a thin soil4 ,it comes into bearing eight or ten years from the nut2 and after that the fruit grows and increases every month in the year4 ,like the orange tree1 the older it gets the more it bears4 ,a bearing cocoanut grove costs less to care for than an orange grove1 and the revenue therefrom is greater4 ,it requires no cultivation1 and is as hardy in its section as the cabbage palmetto1 that grows everywhere in ,florida4 ,besides1 cocoanuts can be shipped in any month of the year2 they require no packing1 no care in handling1 and they will bear transportation for thousands of miles4 ,there is a good market for green cocoanuts in these parts as well as for matured ones4 ,when the nut is fully grown1 but green1 it contains about two glasses of clear juice1 milk we call it in the ,north4 ,it is considered a healthful beverage in the tropics and sells per glass in the streets of ,havana for the equivalent of five cents4 ,nature has favored ,key ,west with a perfect climate4 ,it is surrounded by the ,gulf of ,mexico1 as blue and as beautiful as the famous ,danube4 ,nature in fact has done everything she could to make the place desirable as a residence for man1 but man has done little or nothing for himself1 thus far1 and if the truth must be told1 notwithstanding its favorable natural conditions and its lovely surroundings1 ,key ,west is not yet a desirable place to live in4 ,it has no sanitary laws1 for nothing whatever has been done with a view to sanitation1 and yet with the salt ocean all around the little island1 how easy it would be to make it healthy and clean1 for it is neither one nor the other4 ,there is no such thing as system1 no sewerage whatever in the town excepting one iron pipe which leads from one hotel1 the ,russell ,house1 to the sea1 and even that one pipe is allowed to clog occasionally4 ,a liberally illustrated and large edition of the ,equator-,democrat was issued in #ahhi1 which presents a very rose-colored view of ,key ,west4 ,in that paper ,i find that 8the pleasant streets running at right angles are as smooth and hard as adamant40 ,i am not certain that ,i am very well acquainted with adamant1 but ,i know that the streets of ,key ,west are unpaved and that they are the roughest and the dirtiest streets ,i ever saw4 ,as ,i have lived in ,baltimore1 in ,new ,york and in ,new ,orleans1 my testimony ought to be accepted on such a theme4 ,i speak of ,key ,west in fine weather2 what it must be in wet weather ,i don't like to imagine4 ,if nothing but very deep ruts1 holes and great gullies in the roadway resemble adamant then is ,key ,west adamantine beyond doubt4 ,there is not a boot-black in the town2 none is needed4 ,nobody thinks of blacking his shoes2 it would be absurd4 ,i spoke on this point with a young ,new ,yorker who hails from the fashionable precincts of ,madison avenue4 ,he is a business man who is liberal in the matter of money1 usually dressy1 and extremely neat in his person4 ,he has been in ,key ,west six months1 and in all that time not a brush has passed over his shoes4 ,i regret to differ with my learned and courteous friend1 the editor of the ,democrat1 on the subject of hotels4 ,let him speak for himself4 ,he says that 8,the ,russell ,house1 the leading hotel in the city1 is second to none in the ,state in accommodations40 ,now ,i had an idea that ,st4 ,augustine and ,jacksonville and ,tampa were in ,florida1 and that there were such hotels 8in the ,state0 as the ,ponce de ,leon and ,the ,cordova at ,st4 ,augustine1 and the new ,tampa ,bay ,hotel at ,tampa ,bay1 not to mention a number of other first-class houses 8in the ,state40 ,directly opposite the ,russell is the ,duval ,house4 ,you may never have heard of it2 it is not one-third the size of the ,russell ,house4 ,i know nothing of the apartments of the ,duval4 for ,i investigated no further than the dining-room1 but that was enough to establish its good reputation4 ,it will be a long time before ,i forget how beautifully garnished a dish they made at the ,duval of a red snapper1 and the delicious flavor of their omelette souffle remains with me still4 ,the ,duval is presided over by a ,cuban lady1 ,mrs4 ,bolio1 who kept for years one of the leading hotels in ,havana4 ,she is evidently a woman who knows what good living is4 ,cigar-making is a very large and important industry in ,key ,west4 ,the place was selected for cigar-making because the climate is suited to the 8curing0 of tobacco in the leaf1 and because it is near ,havana4 ,there is something also in the name4 ,everybody does not know that this 7,spanish7 island is ,united ,states territory1 and some smokers if they see a 8,key ,west0 label on a box of cigars believe1 without stopping to think1 that they are smoking a foreign-made cigar4 ,now a ,key ,west cigar if made from ,havana tobacco of fine quality has just as good a flavor as if it were made in ,cuba1 but the ,key ,west cigar can be sold at a lower price because the import duty on cigars is much higher than the duty on the raw material4 ,having the same climate as ,havana1 the best climate in the world for tobacco curing1 and the cigars being made by ,cubans1 who are the best cigar-makers in the world1 ,key ,west turns out just as good cigars as can be produced anywhere--provided always that tobacco of the first quality is used4 ,and the cigar need not consist entirely of ,havana tobacco4 ,a cigar of choice flavor is made of a mixture of tobaccos--,havana 8filler0 and 8binder10 with1 say1 a 8,connecticut seed0 or ,sumatra wrapper4 ,the manufacture of cigars has without doubt aided largely in building up the business of ,key ,west4 ,one authority says that there are two hundred factories1 employing five thousand operatives1 and transacting a business amounting to seven millions of dollars annually4 ,but this report may be exaggerated4 ,however1 here are some more figures1 and if the reader is mathematically inclined he can draw his own conclusions3 ,key ,west during #ahij turned out one hundred and forty millions of cigars4 ,there are very few ,spanish or ,american cigarmakers in ,key ,west2 the majority are ,cubans1 with a very small sprinkling of negroes4 ,there are so many factories and so many operatives that1 although it is a cigar-producing place1 very few cigars indeed are sold at retail4 ,everybody smokes1 every one invites you to smoke2 cigars are almost as free as the air4 ,it would be a paradise for a young dude who has a slender purse and who is addicted to the weed4 ,upon the courteous invitation of ,p4 ,pohalski ,co41 who have a branch in ,havana1 with headquarters in ,warren street1 ,new ,york1 ,i paid a visit to their factory1 which is one of the largest in ,key ,west1 and ,i was much interested in what ,i saw4 ,pohalski ,co4 erected their own factory1 upon their own ground1 and it is one of the most imposing edifices in ,key ,west4 ,they also built upon their own land a number of small houses which they rent to their workmen at a moderate figure2 for its size it is quite a respectable colony4 ,although very large1 employing several hundred hands1 the factory is orderly1 exceedingly clean and neat1 showing good government4 ,perfect system reigns throughout the entire establishment4 ,the first floor is used for the business offices1 for cases of tobacco and for the 8strippers20 the whole of the second floor is occupied by cigar makers1 and the third floor is used by the 8packers10 also for curing leaf tobacco and for storing cigars in boxes4 ,a 8stripper0 is one who1 with the dexter finger and thumb of the right hand pulls the stem from the leaf while the leaf is damp1 the leaf being held in the left hand4 ,it is done by a dexterous and quick movement1 not a vestige of the leaf remaining on the stem4 ,the most costly leaves1 for wrappers1 are only entrusted to experienced operators4 ,the strippers in this factory are numbered by scores4 ,they are all females1 all ,cubans1 and range in age from ten years old to women of fifty4 ,it is not a pleasing sight to one who associates woman with habits of refinement1 to see the older women1 while at their work of stripping1 smoke long1 thick cigars4 ,they hold the cigar between their teeth and seldom remove it1 not even to talk4 ,they are rough-looking cigars1 rolled into shape by the women themselves from the leaves they are stripping4 ,a more pleasing picture is presented on the cigar-making floor1 above4 ,you will be surprised upon entering to see a man standing erect in the centre of the room1 book in hand1 reading aloud4 ,you cannot help but notice1 although ,spanish may be ,greek to you1 that the reader's voice is powerful and well trained1 reaching to the extreme corners and to the most distant ears on the vast floor4 ,he is a professional reader4 ,the several hundred men club together1 each paying a nominal sum for the reader's services4 ,in this way1 while engaged in their work1 they hear the news of the day and are regaled with the latest ,spanish novel4 8,packing0 cigars is a technical term4 ,it is not simply to tie them up with pretty silk ribbons and place them neatly in a box4 ,a packer is one who assorts the colors also4 ,it is a very nice and delicate piece of work4 ,it demands a good eye for color and long experience1 and then it can only be done in a certain light1 of course not by artificial light1 nor unless the day is bright4 ,an overcast1 murky and heavy sky is not good for packing--assorting1 it might be called4 ,in a few hundred loose cigars placed on a table ready for 8packing10 the casual observer will probably see only three or four colors4 ,they are first assorted roughly to bring together those of decided colors--light brown1 medium1 dark brown1 etc4 ,then a pile of dark or light shades is gone over again and again until the different piles of cigars are alike1 as if they were all made from one leaf and turned out by machinery4 ,the packer also discards a cigar that is not perfectly made1 or one not uniform with the rest4 ,a special few1 exact as to form and hue1 are selected for the top row1 to catch and please the eye of the smoker when the lid of the box is raised4 ,a good packer is paid better than any other operative in the business4 ,men and women are employed in it1 some of them earning as high as twenty-five or thirty-five dollars per week4 ,the sponge trade is also a very large and important industry here4 ,the sponges are found in this part of the ,gulf of ,mexico1 and the trade gives employment to a great many people4 ,i visited the largest sponge house1 that of ,arapian ,co41 and saw there in different stages1 sponges valued at a quarter of a million dollars4 ,such a stock of sponges1 as you can easily imagine1 occupies much space4 ,my only surprise was to find such valuable merchandise housed in a light frame building4 ,a fire would spread easily1 and the whole would be rapidly consumed4 ,i have spoken of the dirty1 unpaved streets of ,key ,west2 it would be unfair not to mention a lovely drive which you can take for a few miles on the edge of the ,gulf4 ,you go around the old forts1 you see lighthouses and other interesting objects en route1 the bracing air from the ,gulf fans your cheeks1 the ocean is spread out before you1 and if you return in the early evening1 and near dinner time1 you will most likely be favored with a grand sunset1 and you will surely have a keen appetite4 ,key ,west is reached from ,new ,york by steamers of the ,mallory line1 and from ,new ,orleans by ,new ,orleans and ,havana steamers1 but decidedly the best and most luxurious way of going to the island is by the ,plant line of steamers which leave ,tampa1 ,florida and ,havana1 ,cuba1 three times a week4 ,the 8,mascotte0 and 8,olivette0 were built for this route4 ,they are both staunch1 swift1 beautifully appointed ships1 whose commanders were in the ,atlantic service for years1 the 8,olivette0 being the fastest boat of her size in the world--a model vessel4 ,if you are going to ,key ,west for pleasure--it is possible for people to go there with that end in view--you will go from ,new ,york to ,jacksonville via the ,pennsylvania and ,atlantic coast lines and there take the ,jacksonville1 ,tampa and ,key ,west ,railroad1 although part of this 8railway0 journey consists of a sail on the ,gulf of ,mexico1 from ,tampa4 ,the island1 with all its objectionable features1 has churches of different denominations1 it has convents1 good schools1 and has one large substantial and beautiful brick and stone building for a custom house1 for which the government appropriated one hundred thousand dollars4 ,key ,west has a police force numbering fourteen officers1 including men of all colors and several nationalities4 ,,st4 ,,augustine4 ,,an ,,ancient ,,city ,,modernized4 ,,st4 ,,augustine1 ,,fla41 ,feb4 #h1 #ahia4 ,what a contrast1 to leave the dust and dirt of ,key ,west1 its unpaved roadways1 full of deep ruts1 large holes and great gullies3 ,key ,west1 with its mixed population of twenty thousand negroes1 ,cubans1 ,chinamen and white folks3 ,key ,west1 minus sidewalks1 and minus many evidences of a high state of civilization3 what a contrast is it to arrive in this beautiful city of the ,south1 with its smooth-paved streets1 its clean and aristocratic air1 and its three wondrously beautiful ,spanish hotels1 all within speaking distance of each other4 ,it is like leaping1 if ,i may use such an expression1 from hades to heaven4 ,the changes here within the past three years are great4 ,most important to the tourist is the erection of a railway bridge which crosses the ,st4 ,john's ,river4 ,three years ago you were obliged to stop at ,jacksonville if you approached from the north2 if from the south1 you steamed across on a ferry-boat from ,palatka4 ,now you take your seat in a drawing-room car at ,jersey ,city1 in the ,north1 or at ,tampa1 if you approach from the ,south1 and you need not leave the car until the conductor calls out 8,st4 ,augustine0--thirty-one hours by vestibuled train from ,new ,york1 twelve hours by the ,west ,india ,fast ,mail from the ,gulf1 at ,tampa4 ,as to other changes1 much land has been reclaimed from the river1 miles of roadway have been asphalted and paved with wooden blocks2 the old fort is being restored1 for which work the government has appropriated #ae1jjj2 many new houses have been built1 all of coquina and in the ,moorish style2 to the oldest house in the town has been added a new stone tower2 there has been erected a new ,city ,hall1 which includes a fine market2 and to crown it all1 as it were1 there is a new church1 a ,memorial ,presbyterian ,church1 built in memory of the beautiful daughter ,mr4 ,flagler lost two years ago4 ,the structure is so attractive1 so pleasing to the eye1 that in driving away from it you find yourself constantly turning around to keep its graceful architectural lines in view as long as possible4 ,it is probably not possible to enhance the splendor of the ,ponce de ,leon ,hotel1 the drawing-room of which1 with its magnificent proportions1 its onyx fire-place1 its ceiling decorations1 its rich carpets and furniture1 and its rare paintings by ,bridgman1 ,koppay1 and other artists1 is not rivalled by any other hotel in the world4 ,to call it palatial is no compliment to 8the ,ponce0 parlor1 for ,i have seen no apartments in royal palaces that are more pleasing1 and ,i have been favored with a view of many palaces in many countries4 ,but the approaches to the great hotel and its own grounds have been improved and are now finished4 ,the same remarks will apply to the exterior of the ,alcazar ,hotel1 the smooth and pleasant walk around the outside of which measures just half a mile4 ,the colored boys know3 they use it semi-occasionally for a foot or bicycle race3 8twice around the ,alcazar is one mile0 they will tell you4 ,one of the novel features of this establishment is a swimming pool1 into which the sulphur water rushes up from the artesian well with great force4 ,there is room in the pool 7#dj by #abj feet7 for scores of swimmers1 and there is always a number of visitors looking from the galleries above on the lively scene below4 ,with the mercury ranging between #gj and #hj the sulphur water is indeed refreshing2 and they say it is quite invigorating4 ,temperature of the water1 #ge degrees4 ,in the ,hotel ,cordova you will notice some changes1 for the indefatigable manager1 ,e4 ,n4 ,wilson1 is never content with his efforts4 ,there is a new dining-room for instance4 ,the best seems not good enough for ,mr4 ,wilson1 and his critical eye is always finding some way to improve the house and to add to its comfort4 ,he has redecorated the parlor4 ,the walls are now richly papered but the tints are not satisfactory--to ,mr4 ,wilson4 ,the furniture and carpets are in dark colors1 so ,mr4 ,wilson later on contemplates covering the walls with white and gold for an artistic contrast4 ,expensive8 ,yes1 ,i should say so1 but who cares for the expense8 ,mr4 ,flagler has a very long purse and ,mr4 ,wilson has carte blanche4 ,if the owner in planning these hotels had thought only of pecuniary profit probably they would never have come into existence in their present form4 ,it is an idea with him to beautify the ancient city1 and a half million dollars more or less make little or no difference to ,mr4 ,flagler4 ,yet his hotels are conducted with a careful regard of business-like methods1 although this is not apparent to the casual observer4 ,by the way1 ,i have the very best of reasons for knowing that ,mr4 ,flagler's private acts of charity are many and munificent4 ,after making full and proper inquiry into a case presented to him he always responds1 but he never wants his generous acts to be made public4 ,he will not thank me for this 8mention10 ,i feel sure1 but it is his due and possibly no harm can come from printing it4 ,mr4 ,flagler has bought all the land around and about his three hotels1 so that nobody can erect anything anywhere near him4 ,he is not the man to do anything by halves4 ,the sitting-room in which this is penned is one of a suite ,i occupy in the castellated tower on a corner of the ,hotel ,cordova4 ,the walls of the building are of gray coquina4 ,outside each window is a small and separate 8kneeling balcony10 protected by ornamental iron railings1 painted a reddish brown--such balconies as you see in some buildings in ,madrid4 ,the windows have white lace curtains and the shades are alternate blue and crimson--contrasting pleasantly with the neutral tint of the outer walls4 ,to the east1 within stone's throw1 is ,cordova ,park2 to the west1 the same distance1 is the one-acre park of the ,alcazar1 with its tropical foliage1 pretty walks and handsome fountain2 while diagonally opposite1 same distance again 7about one hundred feet71 loom up the terra-cotta turrets1 towers1 arches and gabled roofs of the ,ponce de ,leon ,hotel1 with its grand park of four and a half acres4 ,this may convey some idea of the situation2 to describe the scene requires the pen if not the pencil of an artist4 ,the ,cordova drawing-room has its tables and chairs1 and it contains some books also2 not odd volumes picked up haphazard1 but books bought and selected by an artist1 book-worm and connoisseur4 ,in the ,cordova library you will find 8,burke's ,peerage10 8,almanach de ,gotha10 8,webster's ,royal ,red ,book10 8,kelly's ,handbook to the ,titled1 ,landed and ,official ,classes10 8,the ,county ,families of the ,united ,kingdom10 ,debrett's 8,house of ,commons and the ,judicial ,bench10 8,castles and ,abbeys of ,england0 and 8,stately ,homes of ,england40 ,i have enumerated only a few of the ordinary volumes relating to ,great ,britain1 but there are also rare and valuable tomes richly and beautifully illustrated1 descriptive of life and scenes in different countries4 ,for instance1 one set in three volumes is 8,masterpieces of ,industrial ,art and ,sculpture at the ,international ,exhibition10 by ,j4 ,b4 ,waring1 published in #ahfb4 ,this mammoth work is richly illuminated1 bound in red morocco1 picked out with gold1 and measures one foot by a foot and a half4 ,it probably cost in ,london twenty-five pounds1 and gives one some idea of the money and good taste expended in selecting the ,cordova library4 ,if one is fond of instructive books his taste can be gratified at the ,cordova4 ,at the majority of hotels you eat ordinary oranges1 brought to the table direct from the store-room3 at the ,cordova only ,indian ,river oranges are used1 selected 8,indian ,rivers10 and instead of coming direct from the store-room they come from a refrigerator4 ,after this process they become ,grateful and ,comforting1 to quote the names which ,epps1 the famous cocoa man1 gave his two daughters4 ,perfect quiet reigns in the dining-room4 ,the waiters are governed1 well governed1 by a head waiter whose head is level4 ,he would even satisfy that 8cranky critic10 as he has been called1 ,max ,o',rell4 ,the men1 when serving dinner1 wear dress coats1 black trousers and white cravats4 ,instead of a loose waistcoat they wear a broad black sash around the waist1 and instead of noisy boots they wear shoes having cloth uppers and rubber soles--black tennis shoes4 ,not a word is heard from the servants1 except in polite response to an order1 and they glide about like dark angels4 ,illustration ,,about ,,tampa4 ,,the ,,inn1 ,,port ,,tampa1 ,,fla41 ,january #ca1 #ahia4 ,tampa is of interest historically1 being the place where ,ferdinand ,de ,soto landed ,may #be1 #aeci4 ,from here he started on his search for the mines of wealth supposed to exist in the new world1 which resulted in the discovery of the ,mississippi river4 ,it is here also that ,narvaez1 having obtained a grant of ,florida from ,charles ,v4 of ,spain1 landed with a large force ,april #af1 #aebh4 ,tampa is on the ,gulf coast of ,florida1 two hundred and forty miles from ,jacksonville4 ,there are two trains daily with ,pullman cars from ,jacksonville and ,st4 ,augustine to ,tampa1 passing through ,palatka1 ,sanford and ,winter ,park1 both having direct connection with all ,eastern and ,western cities and one being a through train from ,new ,york4 ,its rapid growth during the past seven years from about eight hundred inhabitants to as many thousands1 has been brought about by the ,plant system1 which completed the ,south ,florida railroad to ,tampa for the purpose of developing ,tampa commercially4 ,dr4 ,long1 a ,united ,states army surgeon1 wrote of ,fort ,brooks1 at ,tampa1 8,this post has always been considered a delightful station40 ,dr4 ,long's reports and other reports to the surgeon-general at ,washington show it to be one of the most healthful stations in the country4 ,peninsulas have always been thought desirable because of their climate1 which gives them advantages over other localities1 and among peninsulas ,florida is unrivalled because of its latitude and particularly as it is affected by the warm waters of the ,gulf of ,mexico4 ,the investment of large capital in constructing a new hotel in ,florida with the expectation of drawing to it the requisite patronage1 demanded a knowledge of the requirements of winter tourists who visit the place for health or pleasure4 ,those requirements have been carefully studied by ,mr4 ,h4 ,b4 ,plant1 president of the ,plant ,investment ,company1 acting under the advice of eminent scientists1 in the selection of ,tampa4 ,the new hotel is situated on the west side of the ,hillsborough river where it empties into ,tampa bay1 opposite to and facing the city1 which is within easy walking distance4 ,from the river to the front of the hotel there are extensive lawns and flower beds1 with orange1 palm and other tropical trees1 the hotel grounds and property including twenty-two acres4 ,at the rear of the house there is a long stretch of pine lands4 ,as you view the house at a distance1 from the deck of a steamer1 or from a car window1 with its long stretch of brick front1 its iron and stone trimmings1 its many towers with great and gorgeous silver-bronzed1 balloon-shaped domes1 each surmounted by a shining gold crescent1 it impresses you at once as being a great oriental palace4 ,and this idea is aided by the palms and other tropical trees and shrubs by which it is surrounded4 ,the oriental idea also strikes you as you enter4 ,there is a grand 8office10 the ceilings are supported by stout marble columns1 and the music-room1 the drawing-room1 and all the minor rooms on the main floor are furnished in the very best taste1 the matter of expense never seeming to be a question with those who selected the furniture and decorations in different parts of the world4 ,it is safe to say that very few winter or summer resort hotels in this country are as richly furnished4 ,the hotel has been most thoroughly constructed and is practically fireproof1 the outer and inner walls being of brick1 with steel beams and concrete floors4 ,there has been the most approved scientific work in drainage and plumbing1 and there is an abundant supply of good water4 ,on each floor the wide hall extends the entire length of the main building--#eab feet4 ,there are no inside rooms4 ,every room has the sun during some portion of the day1 and a large number of suites have private baths4 ,the house is heated by steam1 in addition to which there are open fire-places in the rooms4 ,the latest improvements have been introduced in lighting4 ,the other day ,i was in the ,savannah depot of the ,savannah1 ,florida and ,western railroad waiting for the ,florida special vestibuled train1 when ,i heard a colored 8depot hand0 say that he wished the ,tampa ,bay ,hotel had been built elsewhere4 8,why1 may ,i ask80 8,well10 answered my civil and sable informant1 8,i am tired of handlin' de stuff for dat hotel2 we'se been a doin' it in dis yer depot for de whole year4 ,but it's comin' putty near de end now1 ,i guess4 ,las' ,saturday der went thro' de depot three whole cyars filled with nutting else but cyarpets1 all for dat house40 ,these remarks give one some faint idea of the size of the new hotel4 ,mr4 ,plant did a great deal for ,tampa when he ran his railroad down there1 his lines of steamers from ,tampa to ,havana and ,mobile have greatly helped the prosperity of the place1 and now he has crowned his good work by putting up a magnificent hotel utterly regardless of the cost4 ,if there was not already a ,plant ,city in ,florida1 ,i should suggest to change the name of ,tampa to ,plant ,city4 ,the house will accommodate four hundred guests2 the rates are five dollars per day4 ,it is only open during the winter1 from ,christmas until the first of ,april4 ,but do not go to ,tampa without your summer clothes4 99 99 99 99 99 ,all the above relates to the big new hotel at ,tampa ,bay1 but all of it is written at the ,inn1 in ,port ,tampa1 distant from ,tampa ,bay proper nine miles4 ,the ,inn is 8little10 it accommodates only seventy-five guests1 but it is a gem of a hotel4 ,it is built on1 or rather over1 the water on piles1 and is like an island1 being actually surrounded by water4 ,there is always a pleasant breeze on one side of the house1 and a breeze is very grateful in this latitude4 ,as ,i write1 the mercury in a thermometer hanging outside my bedroom window marks #ge degrees2 this is at #e ,p4,m41 ,saturday1 ,january #ca4 ,we sleep with open windows1 and nothing more than your pajama or a sheet is necessary for a covering4 ,two sides of the dining-room are composed entirely of sliding-windows through which you can see wild ducks and fish in great quantities4 ,i have seen wild ducks hauled in by the waiters through the open windows of this dining-room4 ,you can throw a line into the water as you sit at dinner and if it be properly baited you will probably find a mullet at the end of the cord before you reach your caf noir4 ,it goes without saying that there are good sailing and fishing at ,port ,tampa3 ,spanish mackerel and the pompano abound1 the latter conceded by epicures to be one of the most exquisitely flavored fish in the world4 ,here also is the famous tarpon--,silver ,king he has been christened4 ,in fact ,port ,tampa is a very paradise for sportsmen4 ,it is easy to supply the table with oysters1 fish and game in profusion4 ,the table by the way is liberally provided1 and the service by ,swiss and ,french waiters is good4 ,the dining-room of the ,tampa ,inn reminds you of the dining-room of the ,hygeia ,hotel at ,old ,point ,comfort1 not for its size1 but for its water surroundings1 and the scene outside brings up recollections of the ,surf ,hotel at ,fire ,island4 ,picnic ,island1 across the ,gulf one mile1 might be a bit of ,long ,island4 ,but there the similarity ends because the ,inn1 unlike the ,surf ,hotel1 is a new house and is luxuriously furnished4 ,steamers leave here weekly 7every ,tuesday7 for ,mobile1 and tri-weekly 7,monday1 ,thursday and ,saturday71 for ,key ,west and ,havana4 ,the railway depot conveying you to ,tampa ,bay 7frequent daily trains71 is at the door of the hotel1 and from this same depot you can get a through car to ,jacksonville or to ,new ,york4 ,the rates at the ,inn are four and five dollars a day4 ,it is proposed to keep it open all the year4 ,illustration ,,monterey1 ,,california4 ,,monterey1 ,,cal41 ,march #be1 #ahia4 ,the name ,monterey means ,mountain ,king and was bestowed on the place in #afjb by ,don ,sebastian ,vizcaino in honor of ,jaspar de ,zuniga1 ,conte de ,monte de ,rey1 at that time ,viceroy of ,mexico4 ,it was he who suggested and projected the expedition undertaken by ,vizcaino4 ,when the members of this expedition returned to ,spain the place returned to its primitive condition and nothing was heard of it till a band of ,franciscan missionaries arrived on this coast in #agfh1 one hundred and sixty-eight years after the first discovery4 ,this expedition came under the direction and guidance of the president of the band1 ,father ,junipero ,serra4 ,at the risk of being charged with sacrilege1 ,i will interpolate right amid this ancient history a bit of fresh news imparted to me yesterday by a carriage driver4 ,he showed me from the road a high plateau overlooking the sea1 where plainly to the naked eye were to be seen preparations for receiving a statue1 which is to be in place and to be dedicated before long4 ,it will be in honor of ,father ,junipero before mentioned2 it will cost ten thousand dollars1 and the wife of ,senator ,leland ,stanford will foot the bill4 ,the site for the statue is a magnificent one1 and if the work of art be worthy of its position1 the city of ,monterey will have something it may be proud of4 ,there's a 8,history of ,monterey ,county0 by ,e4 ,s4 ,harrison4 ,i didn't know before ,i came here and looked into it that ,monterey was the first place settled in the ,state of ,california2 that the first custom house in the ,illustration3 ,,hotel ,,del ,,monte4 ,state 7now an old rookery7 was established here2 that ,monterey was once not only a bustling city1 but the capital of the ,state4 ,it is not a wholly deserted village now1 but its commercial glory1 like that of ,newport1 ,r4 ,i41 which was once a greater port of entry than ,new ,york1 has departed1 never to return4 ,but ,monterey will always be dear to the hearts of ,californians1 from its historic associations and connections4 8,the first ,european lady to come to ,california10 says ,harrison1 8was the wife of ,governor ,fages1 who arrived in ,monterey in #aghc4 ,their child1 born about #aghd1 was probably the first child born in ,california of ,european parents40 ,monterey is one hundred and twenty-six miles from ,san ,francisco1 and is reached in four hours by the ,coast ,division of the ,southern ,pacific ,railroad ,company4 ,on the way1 in ,san ,mateo county 7en passant1 what musical names all these counties and mountains have71 within ten to forty miles from the starting point1 ,fourth and ,townsend streets1 you pass the rural homes of ,san ,francisco's millionaires4 ,some are set in great forests of oak surrounded by acres of flowers in perennial bloom4 ,next1 the beautiful city of ,san ,jos comes in view1 and a flourishing city it appears to be from the car windows4 ,as the train rolls along you keep in sight for many miles the dome of the ,lick ,observatory1 which glistens in the sunlight on the summit of ,mount ,hamilton4 ,and then you haven't eyes enough to take in and enjoy the beautiful views of ocean1 river1 valley and mountain as the train dashes along--the ,coast ,range mountains on your left1 on the right the ,santa ,cruz mountains1 with the sun setting behind them--a glorious moving panorama4 ,after passing what is called the most fertile valley in the ,state ,monterey is reached1 if that be your destination1 but there is a more important station one mile this side of ,monterey4 ,when the conductor calls out 8,hotel del ,monte0 very few passengers in the cars remain seated1 and the train speeds on to the sleepy old town of ,monterey1 almost empty4 ,the first action which the ,pacific ,improvement ,company took when they concluded to make of this place a summer and winter resort was to purchase some land for the purpose1 so they purchased seven thousand acres4 ,part of this domain was a forest1 and of this they selected for their hotel 8garden0 a simple matter of one hundred and twenty-six acres4 ,forty acres of this they cultivated in flower-beds1 lawns1 vegetables and fruit2 the rest they allowed to remain as nature left it1 after hiring the services of a landscape gardener to lay out within their gates a few miles for drives and paths4 ,then it occurred to them that it would be well to have a grand outside drive as an additional attraction1 so they made one1 cutting away mountain1 forest and bluff2 going through the woods1 four or five miles2 skirting the ocean for the same distance2 altogether a nice little post-prandial drive of seventeen miles4 ,but this is not much--for ,california4 ,the drive being private property it is used only for the guests of the ,hotel del ,monte1 the owners of which keep it in the best order1 and in summer time have it watered4 ,it is macadamized and in as good condition as the drives in ,central ,park1 ,new ,york4 ,the road winds toward the bay through a forest of oaks and pines4 ,for two or three miles it will be cool1 dark1 shaded and sweet smelling1 and presently you get a view of the ocean4 ,if the wind is high1 as it was on the twenty-second of ,march1 you will see foaming white-caps in the distance1 and the spray dashing wildly on the bare brown rocks in the foreground1 making a picture which1 on the day we saw it1 was awfully grand4 ,i don't mean this in the sense that girls do when they ,illustration3 ,,the ,,seal ,,rocks ,,at ,,monterey4 say a thing is 8awfully nice20 ,i mean that the boisterous waves were almost frightful with their impetuous rush and their terrible roar4 ,to quote dear old ,fitz-,greene ,halleck1 whose statue in ,central ,park few recognize3 ,the winds of ,march were humming ,their parting song1 their parting song4 ,it was a habit of my predecessor on the ,home ,journal1 ,general ,george ,p4 ,morris1 to publish annually this sweet song of ,halleck's in the ,home ,journal during the first week of ,march4 ,it was a singular fancy of ,morris's and it pleased his brother poet4 ,but ,i am getting away from my story--and the surf4 ,the seals didn't seem to mind the roaring surf or howling wind4 ,their unearthly bark formed part of the grand chorus4 ,they tossed their heads and rolled their ungainly bodies about with all the grace at their command1 which is not saying much for their sylph-like movements4 ,no2 water is their element4 ,if you expect to see the seals of the same color as the sealskin sacques worn by women1 you may not see the seals at all1 for they match in color with the brownish gray rocks on which they romp4 ,they have not gone through the process of 8,london dyeing40 ,i didn't take the trouble to get out of the carriage and go down to the shore1 so in this instance ,i accepted the driver's word that there were five hundred seals on the rocks4 ,the cultivated grounds of the ,hotel del ,monte astonish you with their size and beauty and with the neatness and order in which they are kept4 ,probably not elsewhere is there such variety in horticulture4 ,everything from everywhere seems to thrive here4 ,nor do ,i know of any section of country where there are such noble oaks and pines1 but probably the company claim too much when they say that 8the garden is the finest1 the most gorgeous1 the richest and most varied in all the world40 ,a few years have elapsed since ,i examined ,kensington and ,kew closely1 but it seems to me that the ,tuileries gardens1 which ,i saw one year ago1 are richer1 and ,i know that the gardens in ,hyde ,park1 through which ,i strolled last ,august1 are more pleasing to the eye and to the sense of smell4 ,i speak of the floral display only2 it must be remembered1 however1 that the ,del ,monte gardens are not at their best in ,march4 ,the trees are wonderful4 ,i carry with me not only a thermometer but a tiny tape measure1 the latter in my pocket4 ,i asked the driver to stop as we were driving through the grounds1 while ,i measured a pine and ,i found that it was four and a half yards in circumference near the ground4 ,the driver told me how tall it was1 but ,i will not quote him as ,i'm not giving you 8,california stories40 ,this pine was not pointed out nor did ,i select it for its size4 ,there were others within a few feet of where this giant stood just as large1 and for all ,i know there are hundreds on the ground much larger4 ,of course the palm abounds1 all trees of tropical growth are here2 there are calla lilies for borders1 violets1 heliotrope1 nasturtium1 honeysuckle in wild profusion1 and this in ,march1 mind you4 ,is there ivy8 8,well1 rather10 as an ,englishman might answer such a question4 ,a leaf now lies on my table which measures five inches across4 ,the grounds are in charge of a skilled landscape gardener with a force of thirty-five men--,english1 ,american and ,chinese4 ,foreigners from other lands may rail against the ,chinese as much as they please1 and our legislators may be right in excluding them lest they overrun the country1 but it must be said in their favor that they are a peaceful1 industrious set1 and there are no better servants for indoor or outdoor work4 ,under certain conditions1 however1 they are as obstinate as mules4 ,when you engage them you must be exceedingly careful in giving them instructions1 for they will always continue to do what they are at first told to do2 you cannot change their ways4 ,mr4 ,george ,schnewald1 manager of ,hotel del ,monte1 while we were chatting in his office1 illustrated it to me in this way3 8,observe that ,chinaman wiping carefully the casing of that white door4 ,he was told when he first came here that he was to do that sort of work at this time of day1 and if the heavens fall he'll do it4 ,if ,i were to ask him this minute to leave that door and polish this plate glass window he might obey1 but it would upset him for the day1 if not for all time4 ,if you change your mind and want the work done in a different way you had better change your ,chinaman1 you can't change their ways4 ,but seven ,chinamen will do the work of fourteen white men40 ,and this brings me to the fact that nearly all the walls and all the interior woodwork of these great buildings are painted white4 ,the lack of color becomes a little tiresome to the eye1 but one thing comforts you1 it is kept white--not a mark1 not a spot to mar its perfection4 ,chinamen are always washing either doors1 windows1 surbase1 or whatever part of the floor is not carpeted2 all is pure white except the floor of the beautiful dining-room1 which is of dark ,english oak kept highly polished4 ,the series of buildings is in the modern ,gothic style1 the main building three hundred and fifty feet front1 with a central tower eighty feet high and wings or annexes two hundred and eighty feet long1 showing an entire floor area of sixteen acres4 ,an acre or two1 more or less1 is nothing--in ,california4 ,the bed-room in which this is written is an ordinary room here1 eighteen by sixteen feet4 ,even the marble wash-basin is worth measuring--three feet three in circumference4 ,running water1 gas1 fireplaces2 and closets built with partition walls in every room4 ,there are five hundred and ten rooms1 and seven hundred people can be accommodated comfortably4 ,i am surprised here1 as ,i have been elsewhere in ,california1 at the low rates which obtain at hotels4 ,a placard on the door of this well-furnished room1 with beautiful walls and ceiling and a luxurious bed1 reads3 8,rate for this room1 with board1 for one person #c4ej2 for two #f4ej4 ,with bath-room #d and #g per day40 ,and in the bath-room there appears to be an inexhaustible supply of boiling water4 ,there is no charge made in the ladies' billiard room1 which adjoins the parlor2 no charge for use of boats on the twenty-acre lake4 ,if the plumbing is right1 and so it appears to be1 there is no trouble with the question of drainage1 the ocean being at the door4 ,the drinking water is brought from ,carmel river1 eighteen miles distant1 in the mountains4 ,a ton of ice per day is made on the premises4 ,some of the vegetables are raised near the hotel1 and there is a dairy farm connected with the property measuring untold acres4 ,native wines are sold at ,hotel del ,monte lower than ,i've seen them either here or abroad4 ,it's easy to be a 8swell0 at ,del ,monte4 ,a half bottle of ,zinfandel is opened and served at table for fifteen cents1 and a very good wine it is1 too1 so far as pleasing my palate goes4 ,but ,i don't profess to be so well versed in wines as the late ,sam ,ward or the present ,ward ,mc,allister4 ,there is a secret1 however1 in the low charge for ,california wine at ,hotel del ,monte--the company have their own vineyards4 ,what haven't they got8 ,they have nothing less than a ,steinway concert grand in the parlor and another in the ball-room4 ,there's a feature that almost escaped being put down1 and yet it is worthy of special mention4 ,to the first floors in the two annexes you neither ascend nor descend any stairs2 nor do you to the second floor4 ,to the first floor you descend an inclined hall or arcade2 to the second you ascend an inclined arcade4 ,if you have a room even on the third floor you only walk up one flight of stairs1 unless you prefer the elevator4 ,this is not a new idea1 however4 ,i remember being shown through an old1 unused palace in ,berlin which was constructed in the same way1 ,a member of the royal house was weak in the knees from rheumatism and so was rolled on a sedan chair up and down in this way4 ,the porter at this hotel1 wheeling his truck 8upstairs0 loaded with trunks1 reminded me of the rheumatic royalty4 ,in all hotels recently constructed there is an electric bell as well as an electric button in every room4 ,if you leave word to be called in the morning1 there's no rapping outside your door--rapping loud enough to awaken every sleeper near your apartment4 ,there is an electric button in the office which connects with a bell in your room1 and to this call you will respond4 ,there is no escape from it2 you must get out of bed to stop the ringing4 ,the first ,hotel del ,monte1 opened in #ahhj1 was destroyed by fire3 the new house was erected four years ago4 ,the present manager1 ,mr4 ,george ,schnewald1 opened the first house and superintended the construction of the second4 ,as his name indicates1 he is not to the manor born4 ,he arrived in this country twenty-five years ago without a penny in his pocket1 but with a determination to make a position for himself4 ,there is no secret in his success4 ,anybody can gain success who will follow the ,schnewald method4 ,it was not 8blind luck 8 with him1 but industry1 unceasing industry1 directed with unusual intelligence4 ,schnewald fitted himself thoroughly for his position4 ,on his arrival in this country he decided to be a practical confectioner1 and not long after he received the highest salary ever paid in the ,state to a confectioner4 ,then he took to cooking and earned the highest salary ever paid to a cook in the ,state4 ,step by step has he moved from the very bottom round of the ladder to the management of one of the largest and finest hotels in the country4 ,schnewald is a worker4 ,he is supposed to take three meals a day1 but sometimes his breakfast is not touched till late in the afternoon4 ,from my window ,i have seen him driving about rapidly in a buggy before my toilet was completed2 and your humble servant1 as a general rule1 is out of bed before seven ,a4,m4 ,the interests of the company first1 his own comfort last1 seems to be this manager's motto4 ,yes1 your ,germans are workers4 ,mrs4 ,schnewald is her husband's helpmeet3 she fills the position of housekeeper at ,hotel del ,monte1 and that probably accounts for the bed-rooms being so comfortably furnished--a rocker here1 an easy1 arm-chair there1 with a neat white 8tidy0 on the upholstered back4 ,there's nothing like a woman's eye1 a woman's thoughtfulness in providing all the tasteful etceteras which make a home comfortable and complete4 ,i will close with a clipping from the tourist book1 8,to the ,golden ,gate10 issued by the ,pennsylvania ,railroad3--8,the ,eastern traveler coming to ,california's coast and failing to see #8,del ,monte' has indeed missed not everything1 but a goodly part40 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,old ,,oaks1 ,,del ,,monte4 ,illustration3 ,,profile ,,of ,,front4 ,,hotel ,,del ,,monte4 ,illustration3 ,,hotel ,,del ,,coronado1 ,,coronado ,,beach1 ,,california4 ,,san ,,diego ,,and ,,coronado4 ,,coronado ,,beach1 ,,cal41 ,march #e1 #ahia4 ,i was induced to think about coming to ,southern ,california by the tempting descriptions in ,henry ,t4 ,finck's book1 8,scenic ,tour of the ,pacific ,coast10 and by interesting articles in the ,century ,magazine4 ,toward ,san ,diego and ,coronado ,beach my steps were turned by ,charles ,dudley ,warner's glowing accounts in ,harper's ,magazine4 ,i had always accepted with a grain of salt the flattering reports so widely published1 and now that ,i have seen for myself these wondrous things1 my friends will scarcely credit my story1 so enthusiastic have ,i become4 ,however1 ,i do not intend that you shall rely on my mere 8say so40 ,i've been looking up official and other authorities--men of wide reputation1 who have a name to lose4 ,first1 as to climate4 ,this is the fifth of ,march2 ,i have been here one week to-day1 and every day of the seven has been about alike--dry1 sunshiny1 only on one or two days cloudy4 ,on some days of the seven ,i have seen men bathing in the ocean1 and the bathers said that the temperature was enjoyable--this in ,february4 ,i am told that you can bathe in the surf the year round1 but never mind what 8,i am told40 ,and in temperature1 ,i believe it to be the most equable climate in the world--but away with 8beliefs10 ,i have a thermometer of my own1 and the hotel has one also1 but ,i have watched closely a government1 self-recording instrument which is so placed that no ray of the sun nor no reflection can approach it1 and the figures1 signed by an official of the signal service in the ,united ,states army1 record something like this for the current week3 five ,a4 ,m41 #ee degrees2 noon1 #fh degrees2 five ,p4 ,m41 #fd degrees4 ,the figures quoted1 to be exact1 are those recorded on ,february #bh2 some days since then have been a trifle cooler4 ,you may suggest3 8,if there is almost continual sunshine during daylight1 and the ground is always covered with grass and wild flowers1 it must be very hot and trying in summer40 ,must it8 ,remember there is a bay on three sides of ,coronado1 and the ,pacific ocean is on the other4 ,but ,i will ask you to remember nothing4 ,from the compiled records of the ,united ,states signal station here1 ,i have 8boiled down0 a lot of facts and figures into this condensed form1 to wit3--in ten years1 from #ahgf to #ahhe1 both years inclusive1 there were only one hundred and twenty days on which the mercury rose higher than #hj degrees4 ,and the summer nights are far more pleasant than those you experience in ,new ,york4 ,what about the winter then8 ,here is the answer1 gathered in the same way from the same official source4 ,there were only ninety-three days in those same ten years upon which the mercury reached as low as #dj1 and on no day did it remain at #dj for more than two hours4 ,by comparing1 as ,i did1 the ,united ,states record of the mean temperature at ,coronado for one year with a computation--made in the same year by ,dr4 ,bennett of the mean temperature of the ,mediterranean records1 ,i find that the winter temperature of ,coronado is #h degrees higher than the winter temperature of the most favored foreign winter resorts1 and the summer temperature #aj degrees lower1 thus making an average of #i degrees in favor of ,coronado as an all-year-round resort4 ,i haven't the honor of ,mr4 ,douglas ,gunn's acquaintance1 but in his interesting pamphlet concerning this region he says3 8,with scarcely a perceptible difference between summer and winter you wear the same clothing and sleep under the same covering the year round4 ,the average annual rainfall is about ten inches1 with an average of thirty-four rainy days in the whole year4 ,and here most of the rain falls at night2 there are very few of what ,eastern people would call 8#8rainy days4'0 ,my week's experience agrees with ,mr4 ,gunn's observations4 ,he says3 8,almost every morning1 about two hours after sunrise1 a gentle sea breeze commences1 attaining its maximum velocity between one and three ,p4,m41 then decreasing1 and changing to a gentle land breeze during the night4 ,the sea breeze increasing as the sun gains its height1 modifies the power of its rays1 and keeps the skin just comfortably warm4 ,the gentle land breeze at night cools off the heat absorbed during the day1 and makes every night refreshing40 ,i could go on and quote to the same effect from no less distinguished an authority than the scientist ,agassiz1 who was in this locality nineteen years ago2 also from ,dr4 ,chamberlain in the ,new ,york ,medical ,record1 who says 8it is the sanitarium of the ,military ,division for the ,pacific10 and from one known to me personally1 ,dr4 ,titus ,munson ,coan1 a ,new ,york littrateur of reputation1 who calls this 8the most charming spot on earth20 but ,i fear that you might make some such remark as a very young clubman did 7fifty years ago7 on seeing 8,hamlet0 for the first time4 ,asked for his opinion1 he said3 8,it's a very good play1 ,fred1 but too d----d full of quotations40 ,,the ,,location4--,coronado ,beach proper occupies about one-half of the peninsula that forms the bay of ,san ,diego4 ,it is situated in the extreme southwestern corner of the ,state1 in latitude #cb degrees #db minutes #cg seconds north1 longitude #aag degrees #i minutes west1 and is four hundred and eighty miles southeast from ,san ,francisco4 ,the peculiar shape of this unique peninsula makes it difficult to describe4 ,beginning as it does1 very near the boundary line of ,lower ,california1 in ,mexico1 it reaches away to the westward for miles1 until1 at a point opposite the present city of ,san ,diego1 it forms a conjunction with what seems to have been an island1 which1 if squared1 would measure about a mile and a half on each side4 ,on the northeast and southeast are the slopes and peaks of the ,coast ,range and ,lower ,california chain of mountains2 southward lies the ,pacific ocean2 on the west is ,point ,loma1 which forms the western boundary of the entrance to the bay1 and breaks the force of the winter winds from the ,pacific4 ,but how do you get to the hotel8 ,well1 ,coronado is one and a half miles from ,san ,diego1 ,san ,diego is one hundred and twenty-five miles from ,los ,angeles1 and ,los ,angeles is a station of the ,southern ,pacific ,railroad1 also a station of the ,atchison1 ,topeka and ,santa ,f road4 ,san ,diego is also reached by steamer from ,san ,pedro and from ,san ,francisco1 eight hours from the former1 two days from the latter4 ,the ,pacific ,coast ,steamship ,company runs a fine line of boats4 ,i made the trip on one1 the ,corona1 a well-appointed vessel of #aejj tons1 built on the plan of the ,olivette and ,mascotte1 which run between ,tampa and ,havana4 ,the ,corona makes about thirteen knots2 not so swift as the ,olivette2 no boat of her size is as swift as the ,olivette4 ,some of the conditions of land and water are similar to those at ,fire ,island--ocean on one side1 bay on the other4 ,but while ,fire ,island lacks vegetation1 every inch of ground here which is allowed to remain so is green1 or is carpeted with flowers--literally carpeted4 ,no2 ,fire ,island will not quite answer for comparison4 ,there is no use for a horse1 nor is there a horse on the land or the sand of ,sammis1 while here there are fast trotters1 lovely drives and a race course4 ,the two places are alike1 in that surf and still water bathing can both be had1 as well as sailing and rowing4 ,but there is other sport here--shooting1 for instance4 ,i saw two men go out this morning after breakfast1 empty-handed 7one of them was ,e4 ,s4 ,babcock71 and ,i saw them return this evening with a bag which they said contained 8about one hundred quail40 ,i saw the birds counted and they numbered one hundred--lacking eight4 ,is the ocean too cool for you or the surf boisterous1 there is a plunge bath off shore with water heated to #hj degrees4 ,the tank measures #dj x #fj feet1 so you can flounder about like a veritable fish4 ,but you neither shoot1 fish1 swim1 ride nor drive8 ,then there are charming and varied walks--on the edge of the rough ocean1 on the edge of the smooth bay1 on the high bluff at the side of the former1 or through pretty country lanes and lovely gardens4 ,there is a charming walk of about one mile from the hotel to the ferry1 and planks are laid about half the distance4 ,you pass by or pass through pretty parks4 ,on each 8sidewalk0 there is a row of young fan palms six to eight feet high1 these alternate with daisy bushes six feet in circumference1 the palm trees and bushes being about eight feet apart2 here and there rows of young pines ten or twelve feet high4 ,a ,,magnificent ,,valley ,,view4--,to my mind one of the most delightful morning or afternoon excursions hereabouts is made at an expense of forty cents1 without walking a block4 ,steam railway from hotel to ferry1 boat across the bay to ,san ,diego1 next a horse car to cable road1 then five miles by cable road through a country rich with gorgeous mountain1 valley and ocean views1 to 8,the ,pavilion40 ,the ,pavilion1 erected on the summit of a mountain1 is an amusement building surrounded by well-kept paths and terraces from which a view is had of ,mission ,valley1 a valley and a view not unlike that which you get from the old ,catskill ,mountain ,house and which many people prefer to that1 because this view is not so extensive and can all be taken in and enjoyed at a glance1 with the naked eye4 ,you can see cattle and dogs in ,mission ,valley from your elevated position1 and you see men ploughing and engaged in other farm labor4 ,it is a spectacle that is worth going a hundred miles to see1 and if you can afford it you would not begrudge as many dollars as it costs cents to make the trip4 ,you are at a loss for words to describe your feelings of pleasure when the grand ,mission ,valley view bursts upon you4 ,you remain silent in awe and admiration4 ,are these walks and excursions not of your choice1 or should the weather be inclement1 there are verandas about the hotel measuring a mile or more4 ,neither have interior amusement and exercise been forgotten4 ,there is a dancing hall 7to which reference will be made further on71 there are bowling alleys and there are some billiard tables--as many as thirty--some for men on the lower floor1 some for the other sex on the main floor1 and some for both sexes on the floor above4 ,just think of thirty billiard tables in one house4 ,the tables for women are well patronized4 ,it is remarked that women favor billiard playing in the evening and in evening dress1 and it is also noticed that the figure of a beautiful woman with her shapely arm in short sleeves of lace is seen to excellent advantage when leaning over the table1 the white arm forming a pleasing contrast in color to the dark green baize of the table4 ,,coronado',s ,,rapid ,,growth4--,the ,coronado ,beach ,company was organized a few years ago with a capital of three millions of dollars4 ,the directors are ,e4 ,s4 ,babcock1 ,charles ,t4 ,hinde1 ,john ,d4 ,spreckels1 ,h4 ,w4 ,mallett and ,giles ,kellogg4 ,the president is ,e4 ,s4 ,babcock4 ,the company some years ago laid out that part of the peninsula known as ,coronado ,beach into streets and avenues2 but up to ,january #a1 #ahhg1 not a house was built4 ,now the streets are lined with beautiful villa residences--some of them substantial1 imposing brick buildings--handsome cottages and many business blocks4 ,there are three or four hotels1 several nurseries1 lumber yards1 planing mills1 foundries1 factories1 fruit packing establishments and shipbuilding yards4 ,there is a handsome ,methodist ,episcopal church2 the ,presbyterian1 ,episcopal and ,catholic denominations also have places of worship4 ,a commodious school-house has a large number of pupils and ,coronado has a weekly newspaper4 ,with the growth of young ,coronado came the growth of old ,san ,diego--in fact1 the latter reflects and shares the popularity of the former4 ,san ,diego's population1 which in #ahhd was twenty-four hundred1 now numbers over twenty thousand4 ,imagine the population of a town increasing eight fold in seven years4 ,neither crooked like those of ,london1 nor narrow like those of ,boston1 are the streets of ,coronado4 ,like the streets in ,philadelphia and ,san ,diego1 they are named after trees3 ,orange avenue is one hundred and forty feet wide1 ,palm and ,olive avenues one hundred feet wide4 ,a boulevard one hundred and thirty feet wide extends around the entire property4 ,what about the sewer system8 ,unlike ,key ,west1 in ,florida1 ,coronado with its unequalled water facilities has taken advantage of its excellent natural position4 ,with the bay and ocean at its doors1 the sewer question was quickly and easily solved--every street is already sewered4 ,investors were not taking any chances when they placed their funds in ,coronado's keeping4 ,a ,,good ,,purchase4--,the whole of what is now the flourishing city of ,san ,diego was bought twenty years ago by a ,mr4 ,horton for twenty-six cents an acre4 ,he built the ,horton ,house1 and for him the ,horton ,block was named4 ,san ,diego's neighbor1 ,coronado ,beach1 was bought half a dozen years ago for one hundred and eighty thousand dollars by a company which has since parted with a parcel of the land for a million or two4 ,they kept some choice pieces for themselves4 ,among the parcels of land is that upon which ,hotel del ,coronado stands1 and upon which was expended a million and a half dollars4 ,san ,diego and ,coronado ,beach both experienced 8booms0 about three years ago1 when many men became suddenly rich1 some of them since becoming poor4 ,not a few now are what is known as 8real estate poor10 their money is 8locked up0 in land for which purchasers cannot be found at present--at least not at the price which 8raged0 three years ago4 ,choice pieces on the main street of ,coronado ,beach sold as high as #ejj per front foot1 which is about the price of lots in certain parts of ,new ,york--say in ,harlem--with this difference1 that 8lots0 here are one hundred and sixty feet deep4 ,had there not been real value in the land when the bubble burst1 the bottom would have dropped out entirely when 8hard pan0 was reached4 ,as it is1 land and lots are again finding ready purchasers1 and houses are being built in goodly numbers4 ,that there is a steady growth1 a healthy increase1 and a great future for ,san ,diego and ,coronado ,beach is a matter of certainty4 ,,water1 ,,ice ,,and ,,sanitation4--,in my travels about the world ,i advise my daughters to be cautious of the water in new places and to drink as little as possible2 here1 on the contrary1 ,i urge them to drink freely4 ,the water is not only pure and most agreeable to the taste1 but it contains medical properties which are beneficial to the system4 ,of this we are assured by testimonials from leading physicians in different ,states2 among them ,dr4 ,w4 ,h4 ,mason1 late professor of physiology in the ,university of ,buffalo1 ,n4 ,y41 who1 referring to the analysis1 says3 8,the water may be regarded as a regular elixir of life40 ,its ingredients are almost identical with the famous ,bethesda waters of ,wisconsin4 ,at all events1 a company with a capital of half a million dollars has been formed that has secured possession of the springs1 fourteen miles distant4 ,it has been 8piped0 to ,coronado ,heights and ,coronado ,beach and the yield is now five million gallons per day1 which can be easily doubled by development4 ,the water is used as drinking water at the hotel and with carbonic gas it is bottled for shipment to all parts of the country4 ,if widely and liberally advertised1 there is a fortune in ,coronado ,springs4 ,all the ice used on the premises is made from this spring water1 distilled1 so that it is absolutely pure1 which is more than can be said of ,rockland ,lake or ,maine ice4 ,the machinery at the hotel has a capacity of twelve tons per day4 ,,the ,,hotel4--,the structure1 which with the furniture cost one and a half millions of dollars1 is built around a quadrangular court #bej #aej feet1 the court being another name for a beautiful and well-kept tropical garden4 ,this feature reminds you of the open garden about which the ,united ,states ,hotel at ,saratoga is built 7which house has earned the name of 8the model hotel of the world071 only the ,coronado garden is filled with tropical plants and trees1 and beautiful flowers bloom the year round4 ,it never looks as do the gardens in ,saratoga at the end of ,september4 ,there are orange trees1 lemons1 figs1 loquats1 olives1 limes1 pomegranates1 the banana1 etc4 ,mention of limes calls to mind that by invitation of the courteous and intellectual gentleman in charge of the ,coronado nurseries1 ,i cut a large cluster of limes and sent it to a friend in ,new ,york as a souvenir4 ,such a profusion of flowers you never saw1 unless you have seen ,coronado4 ,for instance1 a short time ago1 in this nursery1 thirty thousand roses were cut in one day from less than a quarter acre of rose bushes1 and the flowers were merely cut to save the bushes4 ,everybody in the neighborhood carried away great baskets of roses to fill bags and pillow-cases4 ,we were loaded with flowers1 cut from the trees and bushes1 in the open1 as we walked through the paths of the nursery--actually 8loaded10 for the ladies of the party not only carried hands and arms flowing over with flowers--but their necks and shoulders were thickly entwined with smilax4 ,the flowers included the delicate heliotrope1 the sweet honeysuckle and the sturdy camelia1 and they also embraced many flowers new and strange to us1 for everything seems to grow here1 side by side--everything that grows in the temperate1 semi-tropical and tropical zones4 ,the hotel is situated on the southeastern portion of a beautiful mesa 7the name here for a slight elevation7 which slopes gradually1 in terraces1 from its centre toward the ,pacific ocean on one side and the bay of ,san ,diego on the other4 ,no one style of architecture has been followed1 as the reader will see from the accompanying illustration4 ,it partakes of the ,queen ,anne style1 also of the classic ,norman era1 bringing up recollections of a grand old ,norman castle3 but the architect has availed himself of different schools1 producing a complete and uncommonly beautiful whole4 ,it is a striking object and the series of buildings form a noble picture against the sky line when viewed four or five miles distant--from ,san ,diego or from the ocean4 ,the projectors seem to have had a fancy for the biblical number seven4 ,the building covers seven acres2 counting guest chambers1 sixty parlors1 large and small1 the private dining rooms and other public rooms1 there are in all seven hundred rooms1 and there is accommodation for seven hundred boarders4 ,why one side of the house is enclosed in glass ,i cannot understand1 when you can sit out doors every day in the year and bask in the sun4 ,this is a good arrangement for ,atlantic ,city1 but not necessary1 it seems to me1 for ,coronado ,beach4 ,,the ,,drawing-,,room4--,this is not a cold1 bare and barn-like apartment such as you find the parlors in so many ,american hotels4 ,it is cozy and home-like1 with an air of marked refinement4 ,the dark walls are relieved with some choice engravings1 and here and there you'll meet with a living plant1 and there is always a vase or two filled with fresh flowers1 such as greet the eye and please the sense of smell 7in summer time7 in an ,english country hotel1 say in the ,lake district4 ,the ,coronado parlor is cheerful1 and with its low ceiling and pillars of unpainted wood1 calls to mind the beautiful parlor of the 7,spanish7 ,hotel ,cordova in ,st4 ,augustine4 ,in fact ,mr4 ,babcock tells me that some of the features of the house are reminiscent of the grand hotels in ,havana1 where he lived for some time4 ,,other ,,public ,,rooms4--,but beside the drawing-room there are a number of other large and beautiful apartments near by--the ladies' billiard-room1 the reception-room1 writing-room1 chess-room1 etc41--something like the elegant public rooms 7which are not so very public7 in the ,hotel ,victoria1 ,london4 ,there are a dozen or more suites of rooms with private parlor for each suite1 opening on the garden4 ,,the ,,dining-,,room4--,this is unique4 ,at first glance1 especially if you are in the middle of the room1 which is oval1 it strikes you as rather bare1 monotonous and inartistic2 very practical1 with room for six hundred people1 but not entirely pleasing4 ,but the longer you stay the more you admire1 particularly if you are lucky enough to get a table near an end of the room1 either that end which overlooks the garden or the end from which you can see the ocean1 the bay and the mountains beyond4 ,it measures #agf #ff feet1 and the ceiling is distant from the floor #cc feet4 ,the whole immense apartment1 floor1 walls and ceiling1 is of light colored wood--white ,oregon pine and solid oak worked into panels of all sizes and shapes conceivable4 ,the materials and light colors1 or color rather1 are suitable to this climate and in time you get to like them4 ,the breakfast room is no miniature apartment either1 #dg #ef feet1 with ceiling as high as the dining-room ceiling4 ,it is far more attractive to my eye1 its floor being carpeted1 and having a high dado of ,california redwood1 which serves to relieve the lighter woods4 ,but ,americans demand size for their beauty1 and they have it in the dining-room with its floor area of #aj1jjj feet4 ,to quote the writer of a pamphlet1 8it fills the beholder with an astounding admiration40 ,better than that1 to my taste1 they have a skilful chef1 and he fills your platter with most appetizing dishes--if you get a good waiter4 ,,where ,,they ,,dance4--,in the extreme southwest corner of the building is the ball-room1 with an extended view of the beach and the ocean2 indeed1 you cannot get away from the ocean unless you get away from ,coronado4 ,the designer of this room has also 8gone in0 for size4 ,it is a circular room1 no less than #fj feet high and #abj feet in diameter1 giving a floor area of #aa1jjj square feet4 ,too much room for a small 8dance10 but splendid for a ball or grand concert4 ,a feature of the ball-room is a stage for amateur theatricals1 which1 for size and appointments in the matter of lights1 would not discredit a regular theatre4 ,a ,,rich ,,and ,,royal ,,suite4--,taken as a whole1 there are more prettily furnished bedrooms in ,long's ,hotel1 ,london1 than in any other hotel ,i have ever seen4 ,the tower rooms in the ,oglethorpe1 at ,brunswick1 ,georgia1 are large and remarkably beautiful1 and the bridal suite in the ,ponce de ,leon is supposed to be very choice1 but the ,ponce de ,leon 8show0 apartments will not compare in beauty nor in completeness of detail with the bridal suite in ,hotel del ,coronado4 ,these rooms in the ,coronado are not so palatial in size nor in the matter of costly frescoes as the rooms in the ,london ,mtropole1 in which ,i found ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,augustin ,daly last ,october1 but they certainly are among the most tastefully furnished hotel bedrooms ,i have ever seen1 and it is not surprising that the photographic views of these apartments find many purchasers4 ,the window has an eastern view that is extremely pleasing4 ,to the right are seen the ocean's rough breakers1 to the left is the smooth bay of ,san ,diego1 while to the immediate front1 as you lie in bed1 if the curtains are parted and you are awake at #f4bj ,a4 ,m41 you can see the sun creeping up behind a range of great mountains1 miles and miles away4 ,the soft cloud of black smoke curling from the tall1 round1 red brick chimneys of the electric light engine house between you and the golden sky beyond1 does not mar the picture in the least4 ,across the centre of the principal room of the suite are three arches1 supported by the side walls and by two wooden fluted columns1 and under the arches are heavy portires of double silk1 salmon pink on one side1 old gold on the other4 ,the windows are draped elaborately and beautifully--light blue silk shades1 lace curtains next to the windows1 with inner curtains of heavy pale blue silk1 lined with silk of a rose tint4 ,the furniture is of mahogany1 upholstered with blue silk plush1 the carpet is a rich moquette in delicate colors1 and the toilet set is in ,haviland ,limoges decorated in deep blue1 white and gold4 ,the ceiling is daintily frescoed4 ,from its centre depends a three-light electrolier2 from the wall1 over the bureau mirror1 juts out a bracket with two electric lamps4 ,the mantel is ornamented with two side pieces of ,limoges and a bronze cathedral clock--a miniature representation of the clock in the ,houses of ,parliament1 in ,westminster4 ,if you do not get from these notes the idea of a luxurious and tasteful apartment1 the fault is not with those who furnished it1 but with the pen which has failed to describe it4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,santa ,,cruz1 ,,california4 ,,santa ,,cruz1 ,,cal41 ,march #bg1 #ahia4 ,in area1 ,santa ,cruz county is one of the smallest in ,california1 but in resources1 productiveness of soil and natural attractions it might be called the largest in the ,state4 ,in its equable climate is grown almost everything indigenous to the north temperate zone4 ,the county is in central ,california1 eighty miles south of ,san ,francisco2 it has a coast line of forty miles1 and includes1 according to the ,united ,states ,government survey1 #bhj1jjj acres4 ,so rich is it that there are not more than five thousand acres of waste land in the entire county4 ,south of this is the ,pajaro ,valley1 the most fertile spot of ,california1 called 8the wonder of the ,pacific40 ,there is not much stock-raising in ,santa ,cruz county4 ,the mountains1 being heavily timbered1 are not adapted to grazing4 ,nor are citrus fruits cultivated to any great extent2 but the apples of ,santa ,cruz county are superior to any grown in the ,state1 the quality of the wine is unsurpassed in the ,state1 and the remarkable richness of the soil renders the cultivation of potatoes1 beans1 hops1 sugar beets1 etc41 profitable to a degree unknown in less fertile sections4 ,the vegetable products of the county form one of its most extensive industries4 ,e4 ,s4 ,harrison1 a trustworthy authority in ,california history1 calls ,santa ,cruz 8a vegetable wonderland40 ,let me illustrate the natural advantages of this region by a comparison4 ,while riding on the ,southern ,pacific railway over the ,texas plains1 a month ago1 the travelling auditor of the company1 who was on our train1 surprised me by stating that the company is glad to lease its lands at four cents an acre annually4 ,land within a couple of miles of where this is written is leased to ,chinamen for farming at fifty dollars an acre annually1 and they realize from it a profit per acre of two or three hundred dollars4 ,the ,city of ,santa ,cruz1 the principal city and county seat of the county1 lies between the ,pacific ocean and the northern side of ,monterey bay1 about eighty miles south of ,san ,francisco4 ,it nestles among the foot-hills of the ,santa ,cruz mountains1 and its outskirts are bathed by the sea4 ,the city proper has a population of six thousand five hundred1 and if ,east ,santa ,cruz is included1 the population is about nine thousand4 ,the city is growing rapidly4 ,new business houses are constantly going up1 capital is coming from the ,east1 and everywhere are evidences of a steady1 healthy increase4 ,santa ,cruz has good railroad facilities4 ,two branches of the ,southern ,pacific run here direct4 ,they are called the broad gauge and the narrow gauge roads4 ,the broad gauge is an important line running through ,santa ,clara and ,pajaro valleys1 passing ,san ,jos and the larger towns between ,san ,francisco and ,monterey4 ,the narrow gauge runs from ,san ,francisco no farther south than ,santa ,cruz4 ,it is more of a local line and stops at the smaller places--places1 however1 of such great interest to tourists as ,big ,trees4 ,the steamers of the ,pacific ,steamship ,company plying between ,san ,pedro 7near ,los ,angeles71 and ,san ,francisco stop here1 regularly1 on their way north and south4 ,in writing from ,hotel del ,monte in ,monterey1 ,i mentioned some large oaks and pines2 there are as big and still bigger trees here1 or very near here1 at a place appropriately named ,big ,trees4 ,it is a ten minute ride on the narrow gauge road of the ,southern ,pacific1 or an hour's drive by carriage from ,santa ,cruz4 ,you need not go to ,yosemite1 ,calaveras or ,mariposa to see giants of the forest2 here they are1 a grove of #cbj acres1 some of the trees #cjj feet high and #df feet in circumference4 ,these figures are quoted1 but ,i measured a few specimens myself4 ,one about four feet from the ground was #eb feet in circumference4 ,the interior of another1 8,general ,fremont10 had been burned out4 ,four persons beside myself stood inside of it1 and thirty-five more1 we calculated1 could have found room in comfort4 ,this measured six feet in diameter about five feet from the ground--inside measurement--the 8shell0 of the tree being probably a foot thick4 ,there are dozens and scores and groups of trees in this wonderful grove1 nearly as large4 ,the trees are of the famous ,california ,redwood species1 the wood hard as flint and very heavy4 ,the largest specimens are named and bear tablets1 8,daniel ,webster10 8,general ,grant10 8,general ,sherman10 8,ingersoll's ,cathedral10 etc4 ,under the shadow of the last named1 the honorable gentleman held forth one day to an admiring audience4 8,big ,trees0 is owned by a wealthy widow of ,san ,francisco1 ,mrs4 ,walsh4 ,powerful and proud as are these giants of the forest1 some of them have been uprooted by nature's convulsions and lie humbly and horizontally on the ground4 ,i noticed that a few of these were charred4 ,the keeper of the grounds explained that year after year fire had been tried1 but the hardy giants would not yield to flame4 ,they are so thick and hard they won't burn as they lie4 8,then why not cut them up10 ,i suggested4 8,oh60 was the answer1 8lumber is worth nothing here2 it is so plentiful40 ,they have done a little 8cutting10 however4 ,in exchange for a dime you will get a piece of red wood quite heavy enough for your satchel1 or a piece of the bark much too clumsy for your coat pocket4 ,the bark is three or four inches thick4 ,this is a famous wine country4 ,we visited the tunnels of the 8,santa ,cruz ,mountain ,wine ,company10 whose vineyards are visible nine miles away on the hills4 ,the tunnels are dug out of the soft1 sand-stone rock and are dark and rather cool4 ,that is to say1 the air seemed cool when compared with the atmosphere outside1 but as a matter of truth1 which is often stranger than fiction1 the thermometer showed the temperature in the tunnels to be #eb degrees1 and it remains at about that figure all the year round4 ,there are three such tunnels1 each #chj feet long1 #bd feet wide1 and #ah feet high4 ,the vineyards of the company include two hundred acres4 ,in these deep1 cool tunnels the company has stored in great vats no less than two hundred thousand gallons of wine4 ,bottle after bottle was opened for our party and so cheaply was it held that the glasses were freely washed with the wine as the different kinds were tasted--port1 sherries1 clarets and white wines4 ,the claret has good body1 and if you add a little water to it1 as the ,french treat vin ordinaire1 it makes a very good drink for a thirsty soul at the dinner table4 ,california ,angelica has been a popular wine for twenty odd years3 the ,angelica produced in ,santa ,cruz is sweet1 smooth1 oily and delicious4 ,a brand of ,sauterne so pleased my palate that ,i ordered twenty gallons to be shipped to ,new ,york4 ,but ,i'll let you into the secret of this seemingly extravagant order2 the price is only one dollar per gallon--and not ,jones1 but ,i1 paid the freight4 ,in ordering this wine ,i was guided first1 by my own taste--it has delicious flavor2 secondly1 ,i felt assured that it was absolutely pure4 ,the grapes are here1 on the spot1 ship loads of them1 in the season1 and there's no incentive for adulteration4 ,the well-kept roads and fine drives about ,santa ,cruz are not its least attractive feature4 ,one of them you can take from the shore1 driving over a bridge of the ,san ,lorenzo river1 passing ,phelan ,park and the twin lakes1 on the borders of which are the summer home and settlement of the ,christian ,church4 ,you keep the mountains in view all the way1 and a turn here or there shows you the city1 the bay1 or the ocean4 ,the three-mile cliff drive takes you immediately above the rock-bound shore of the ,pacific1 where you see giant crags upon which the everlasting waves have had their effect4 ,some of the rocks stand off from the shore twenty and fifty feet1 and through these the powerful waves have worked great holes1 through which the waters rush with a tumultuous roar1 dashing their spray far above4 ,these 8natural bridges0 would be considered a rare sight if they were the only feature of this scene1 and would attract people from a distance1 but where there is so much to admire and astonish1 they are only one among the many marvels that here make an embarrassment of pictorial riches4 ,the city has two banks1 good public schools and water-works2 it is sewered to the ocean1 it has horse-cars1 fine public buildings1 and two flourishing newspapers1 the ,sentinal and the ,surf4 ,good society is not lacking1 and beautiful homes abound4 ,duncan ,mc,pherson has a fine ,gothic villa2 the residence of ,mayor ,bowman commands beautiful views of the bay and the town2 the home of ,william ,kerr1 two miles out of the city1 is a handsome structure in the ,queen ,anne style1 having two wide entrances and bay windows1 affording extensive views of the valley and bay4 ,colonel ,a4 ,j4 ,hinds1 a pioneer of ,santa ,cruz1 has built himself a charming home1 and ,mrs4 ,p4 ,b4 ,fagen's house on ,mission street1 one of the principal residential streets1 attracts the attention of all passers-by4 ,other pretty homes are those of ,d4 ,k4 ,abeel1 ,r4 ,bernheim1 ,mr4 ,glover and ,mrs4 ,e4 ,j4 ,green4 ,mr4 ,j4 ,philip ,smith1 a ,new ,york capitalist1 who has travelled far and wide and who passes much of his time in ,europe and ,new ,york1 came here with his family four years ago1 bought a two-acre site upon which a fine house stood and this he enlarged and reconstructed1 laying out the grounds in a tasteful way1 making it one of the handsomest residences in ,santa ,cruz4 ,it has a high and enviable position near the ,sea ,beach ,hotel4 ,it reminds you at once upon entering it of a ,parisian interior and on closer examination you are not surprised to learn that many of the things of beauty which adorn the rooms had a ,french origin4 ,the ,smiths are great travellers and in their journeyings about the world have 8picked up0 any number of art works and curios which now find an appropriate resting place4 ,one of the finest views here1 one of the most beautiful of its kind in the ,state probably1 is to be had from ,logan ,heights1 the estate of ,judge ,j4 ,h4 ,logan4 ,judge ,logan is president of the ,santa ,cruz bank and one of the most esteemed citizens of this section4 ,the house1 not imposing architecturally1 stands on a mesa or plateau of about twenty acres1 in which beautiful roses and other choice flowers bloom the year round4 ,from this elevated position a series of bird's-eye views are spread out before you1 the extent1 beauty and variety of which are not easily described4 ,at this point you are two hundred feet above the ,pacific ocean4 ,immediately below1 in the foreground1 is the whole city of ,santa ,cruz1 with its high school1 its gardens1 reservoirs1 depots1 hotels1 and its church spires4 ,to your left1 eastward1 are the villages ,soquel and ,aptos1 famous lumber centres4 ,a few miles further off in the same direction1 glistens ,monterey bay1 backed by the ,santa ,cruz mountains4 ,southward1 beyond the city at your feet1 winds the bay of ,monterey4 ,look twenty miles further south1 and1 in this clear atmosphere1 you see the sleepy old town of ,monterey with the mountains as a background for the picture4 ,to your right1 westward1 is the ocean again--altogether1 forming a number of diversified and beautiful pictures4 ,there are a number of good hotels at ,santa ,cruz--the ,pacific ,ocean ,house1 the ,wilkins ,house and ,ocean ,villa4 ,the last named looks cozy and comfortable as it stands in its own pretty garden1 with a commanding view4 ,the leading house is that owned by ,d4 ,k4 ,abeel1 the ,sea ,beach ,house1 which he has recently enlarged and reconstructed1 putting in all the modern improvements1 and putting in as landlord ,john ,t4 ,sullivan1 who1 after securing a long lease1 furnished it in good style4 ,it was designed by ,g4 ,w4 ,page1 a prominent architect of ,san ,jos1 and presents a most pleasing appearance1 viewed either from the heights or from the shore1 above which it stands nearly one hundred feet1 and to which its grounds1 beautifully terraced and ornamented with flowers1 gracefully slope4 8,modern improvements10 of course--every room in the ,sea ,beach ,hotel has running water1 but the improvements include hot water also4 ,the parlor is on the main floor1 in the corner round tower of the building1 and1 with its many windows1 is uncommonly pleasing4 ,through or from these windows you get the best features of the scenery hereabouts1 from the tasteful flower gardens of the hotel grounds to ,loma ,prieta and the mountains in the distance1 or to ,monterey1 beyond the bay in the foreground4 ,the lessee1 ,mr4 ,sullivan1 is not unknown to ,new ,york4 ,he was a tried friend of ,horace ,greeley's and a trusted officer under ,hon4 ,thomas ,l4 ,james in the ,new ,york ,post-office1 in which place he rose after faithful service of fifteen years to be superintendent of the newspaper department4 ,mr4 ,sullivan has been in ,santa ,cruz only five or six years4 ,i saw a modest little two-story building in which he started here1 8keeping boarders10 and he now finds himself in the leading hotel of the town1 owning his own furniture1 a fine stable1 and with the prospect of making his fortune4 ,with success ,mr4 ,sullivan has made many staunch friends1 among them the mayor of the town1 judges1 bank presidents and other leading citizens4 ,the steamship landing is nearer the ,sea ,beach ,hotel than it is to any other house2 the broad guage station is at the door1 so to speak1 and the narrow guage station is two minutes walk around the corner4 ,the house is open all the year4 ,santa ,cruz is attractive in winter1 but in summer it must be delightful4 ,illustration3 ,,natural ,,bridge1 ,,santa ,,cruz4 ,,redondo ,,beach4 ,,redondo ,,beach1 ,,cal41 ,march #ac1 #ahia4 ,new ,orleans obtained its sub-title from the crescent shape of its banks on the ,mississippi river4 ,the trend of the ,pacific shore here suggested the pretty name1 8,redondo10 in ,spanish1 signifying round4 ,it is midway between ,capistrano1 south1 and ,point ,duma1 north1 and is sixteen miles in a southwest direction from ,los ,angeles1 from which city there are several trains daily over two roads--the ,santa ,f and the new ,redondo ,beach railroad4 ,all passenger steamers to and from ,san ,francisco and way points stop at ,redondo4 ,three years ago ,redondo was a waste1 or at best it was a cattle ranch4 ,there was not a house nor a hut here1 now it is a garden spot of ,southern ,california4 ,it came into existence as if by magic1 as do many flourishing towns on the ,pacific slope4 ,beautifully situated on grounds rising gradually from the ocean1 backed by rich1 tillable lands and ranges of green hills1 with seaport facilities not surpassed in ,california south of ,san ,francisco1 its rapid growth is not surprising4 ,the creation of ,redondo1 according to plans which promise such a satisfactory result1 is due to ,californians--men of irrepressible energy and wide experience in large affairs--,captain ,j4 ,c4 ,ainsworth1 ,captain ,r4 ,r4 ,thompson and ,captain ,george ,j4 ,ainsworth1 not captains by courtesy1 either4 ,they planned and have established successfully railroad and steamship lines in ,oregon and the northwest4 ,that they have ample capital at their command may be judged by a few figures given at random4 ,their first step was to buy one thousand acres of land2 second1 to build a railroad and wharf2 third1 to secure an ocean front of one mile1 then to erect a hotel four hundred and fifty feet long to accommodate three hundred people4 ,it was first opened ,may #a1 #ahij4 ,in the hotel they built a music room1 #dh #hj feet1 spending two thousand dollars simply on an inlaid floor2 there is a tennis court which cost seven thousand dollars2 they laid a ,portland cement walk from the station to hotel1 sixteen feet wide and a quarter of a mile long1 expending another ten thousand in that way--altogether it is easy to believe that checks for more than a million have been drawn in the enterprise4 ,these ,californians1 with their big trees and their forty-thousand-acre ranches1 do nothing in a small way4 ,do you ask what are the natural attractions of the place8 8,first1 last and all the time10 there is the almost wonderful climate--genial1 balmy and equable1 such as you will find nowhere but in ,southern ,california4 ,the hotel proprietor tells me that the average winter temperature is #fa degrees4 ,in case you should not care for figures at second hand1 here is a record from my own thermometer4 ,yesterday1 ,march #ab1 noon1 #fh1 this morning at seven it registered #ec2 at this writing1 eight ,p4,m41 #fj1 the instrument hanging outside my window4 ,the summer here1 ,i am assured1 and ,i firmly believe1 is more delightful than the winter1 and the hotel will be kept open the year round4 ,like the ,hygeia at ,old ,point ,comfort1 ,redondo attracts people from a distance in winter2 in summer it is largely patronized by residents of ,san ,francisco1 ,los ,angeles and other cities of the ,state4 ,i do not agree entirely with ,mrs4 ,malaprop that 8comparisons are odorous40 ,they often serve a very useful purpose in illustration4 ,at any rate ,i am given to the habit of comparing1 be it a good or a bad habit4 ,what is large or small1 fine or coarse1 hot or cold1 wet or dry1 good or bad1 except by comparison8 ,for once1 however1 ,i am put to my wits' ends for comparison4 ,redondo is like no place on the ,atlantic coast1 because1 although directly on the seashore1 every foot of ground1 almost up to the edge of the ocean1 is covered with fine grass2 and the most tender flowers grow and flourish in profusion everywhere1 almost within a few feet of the surf4 ,this in winter1 mind you--a ,southern ,california winter1 though4 ,it is not so1 even in summer1 on the ,atlantic coast1 in the ,united ,states1 nor in ,england4 ,yes1 ,i have it3 ,i can indulge in the old habit2 the climate of ,redondo is like that in the ,south of ,france3 in fact it is in the same latitude3 there6 ,in the hotel nurseries1 which are distant from the surf but a few hundred feet1 you may revel in roses1 heliotrope1 tulips1 mignonette1 daisies1 etc4 ,there are tall calla lilies in plenty and the pleasing sight of acres and acres of pinks of various colors is one that is very fascinating4 ,the hotel farm of two hundred acres1 where choice stock is kept1 supplies the house with more than all the milk1 cream1 butter1 fruit and vegetables it requires4 ,the hotel is only four stories high1 yet there is an elevator2 of course electric lights and all modern improvements4 ,neither is the building deep1 but it has great length1 to give views of ocean in front and of green hills in the rear4 ,it stands north and south thus affording ocean views from three sides4 ,of the #bbe rooms1 every one has a sunny exposure at some hour of the day2 every one is well ventilated and lighted2 every one is an 8outside room10 and every guest feels that his is the best suite in the house4 ,the porch is not one straight1 unbroken line like the porches of so many summer hotels in the east4 ,it has a few graceful curves in it and from it you may watch the craft sailing by--coast steamers to and from ,san ,francisco and other ports4 ,the golden sunsets you may see from this porch are such as no artist could represent4 ,it is not within the possibilities of paint and canvas to reproduce such gorgeous scenes4 ,on a clear day without the aid of a glass ,catalina island is visible thirty miles away4 ,the dining-room of the hotel juts out in a northerly direction and has windows on three sides4 ,from a distance it looks as if it might have been an after-thought in construction1 but the architect planned it this way1 to give what was most desired--light1 ventilation and pleasing views1 and he succeeded4 ,two hundred and sixty can sit down to dinner at one time4 ,there are no loose wardrobes nor clothes presses2 all the bedrooms have closets built in the walls4 ,every room is supplied with hot and cold water running into marble basins4 ,every room has a tiled fireplace in color and design to match the carpet1 and what is also worthy of mention1 the furniture in the bedrooms is not duplicated1 nor are the carpets4 ,the drinking water is from an ,artesian well4 ,it has been analyzed and pronounced pure4 ,the plumbing seems to have been done in a careful manner1 and the question of sewerage need give nobody concern4 ,the hotel stands on a mesa4 ,the refuse goes through an iron pipe and empties into the sea half a mile from the house4 ,there are no better fishing grounds on the coast1 so they say4 ,if you are lucky with the line you may catch bonita1 ,spanish mackerel1 baracouta1 smelt and yellow tails1 whatever they are4 ,the circular of the ,redondo ,hotel as to rates merely says1 8same as any first-class hotel40 ,this is hardly in accordance with the facts1 as ,i see them4 ,the terms at the ,redondo are from three to four dollars per day1 while hotels in the east1 of the same class1 charge from four to five dollars4 ,why such low rates obtain in ,california hotels is something ,i intend to find out before ,i leave the ,state4 ,for illustrated circulars address ,redondo ,hotel ,co41 ,redondo ,beach1 ,cal4 ,,pasadena4 ,,pasadena1 ,march #aj4 ,people who care more for comfort than for great 8style10 who prefer a quiet1 home-like1 family house to one of noise and bustle1 those who are seeking health1 pure air and out-door life with grand views rather than the music1 dancing and entertainments of a fashionable hotel may jot down as a memorandum 8,the ,painter ,hotel1 at ,pasadena1 ,cal10 thirty-five minutes by train from ,los ,angeles and fifteen minutes by 8free 'bus0 from passenger station4 ,it is a new house1 was built in '#hh2 it accommodates seventy-five boarders1 and is owned and kept by ,j4 ,h4 ,painter's ,sons4 ,the house is airy1 the bedrooms are comfortably 7not luxuriously7 furnished1 the parlor is pleasant1 the class of guests select1 the table is well provided1 and at once1 let me say1 ere the important fact escapes me1 the rates are remarkably low for the nice appointments and good fare supplied--only #b4ej per day for transient guests1 and from #ab4ej to #ag4ej per week to season boarders1 for people come to stay for a month or so--some spend the whole winter here4 ,the house is open the year round1 it being pleasant in summer as well as in winter4 ,it is a mountainous district1 and the ocean1 from which come soft winds in summer1 is only thirty minutes' distant in a south and southwesterly direction4 ,yes1 and here are two more facts--,pasadena is one thousand feet above the sea1 and the ,painter ,hotel1 which is one and a half miles from the centre of the town1 stands on the highest point hereabouts4 ,the grounds comprised in the property include ten acres1 upon which the owners grow their own fruits for the table--peaches1 apricots1 raisins1 prunes1 etc4 ,do you want to visit the town8 ,street cars pass the door of the ,painter4 ,and if you want a view it will 8pay0 you to climb up to the roof of the hotel1 where there is an observatory4 ,three miles off is the ,raymond ,hotel1 plain to your view in this clear atmosphere4 ,on one side is the ,san ,bernardino range of mountains1 on the other the ,sierra ,madre range4 ,you may see ,san ,jacinto1 ninety miles away1 also ,wilson's ,peak1 upon which the new observatory1 with its powerful lens1 is to be placed2 and beautiful ,san ,gabriel valley is spread out immediately beneath you1 a feature of which1 at this writing1 are acres of large1 orange-hued poppies1 so bright that you could almost imagine them aflame1 especially if the wind is blowing1 thus giving vibration to the thin1 delicate leaves4 ,the drives are a most delightful feature3--to the city proper1 with its wide avenues of beautiful residences1 to ,san ,gabriel mission1 and to 8,lucky0 ,baldwin's ranch1 a pleasant afternoon drive4 ,those who are planning a winter or spring tour will thank me for suggesting a visit to the ,painter ,house1 but if people demand 8style10 if they would dance to orchestral music2 if they demand great size in a dining-room and grandeur in the drawing-room1 and they are willing to pay for it1 all these are also obtainable here1 or rather at ,east ,pasadena1 which is only three miles distant2 eight miles from ,los ,angeles4 ,and the price1 #d4ej per day1 #ba to #bh per week1 is reasonable considering what you get for the money4 ,reference is made to the great ,raymond ,hotel1 which was built in #ahhf1 where they have a bar1 as well as billiards and bowling2 elevator1 electric lights1 a reception-room1 music-room1 grand parlor1 and a dining-room which accommodates three hundred persons4 ,from your seat at table you see 8,old ,baldy0 looming above the clouds eleven thousand feet and snow-covered ten months out of the twelve1 looking like a great sugar-loaf and recalling the ,jungfrau1 near ,interlaken1 ,switzerland4 ,like the dining-room of its modest neighbor1 the ,painter ,hotel1 every table in the ,raymond is decorated daily with fresh flowers plucked from the hotel grounds--this is 8winter10 mind you4 ,the grounds of the ,raymond cover a space of fifty-four acres1 so there is no lack of fruit 7oranges1 lemons1 etc471 to say nothing of the roses1 blue bells1 honeysuckle1 dandelions1 heliotropes and violets which may be picked ad libitum--if you don't regard the painted signs4 ,a view from one of the ,raymond's verandas is not much unlike that from the front steps of the ,grand ,hotel in the ,catskills1 only the former is far more extensive4 ,the proprietor of the ,raymond is ,w4 ,raymond1 of ,raymond's ,vacation ,excursions1 ,boston1 and the manager is ,c4 ,h4 ,merrill1 of the ,crawford ,house1 in the ,white ,mountains4 ,the post-office address is ,east ,pasadena1 ,cal4 ,orange ,grove avenue and ,marengo avenue and the paths in the grounds leading to the houses are lined with luxurious fan palm trees1 interspersed with great cacti and not a few century plants1 which it is proven here bloom much oftener than once in a hundred years4 ,the calla lily1 that delicate plant which is so tenderly cared for in the ,east that the flower is wrapped in cotton wool1 here grows in such profusion that it is used for hedges4 ,you will see fields of 8callas0 at ,pasadena1 raised for shipment to large cities4 ,the whole of ,pasadena is like one immense garden1 a garden city indeed4 ,,pasadena ,,cottages4--,you would scarcely credit it1 so ,i won't tell you1 that some of the 8cottages0 in this new place are as large and elaborate as those on the ,new ,jersey coast1 between ,seabright and ,elberon1 and some of them would not look out of place alongside the grand ,newport 8cottages40 ,mr4 ,kernaghan1 editor of the ,pasadena ,star1 has a fine home here4 ,one of the prettiest places belongs to and is occupied by ,mrs4 ,kimball1 the widowed daughter of ,rufus ,hatch of ,new ,york4 ,charles ,frederick ,holder1 formerly of ,new ,york1 came out here six years ago for his health1 and having obtained it has made this his home4 ,he has a cozy cottage on ,orange ,grove avenue in which is his study1 where you may find him at his ease1 wearing a short black velvet coat or smoking jacket4 ,mr4 ,holder is a journalist and littrateur1 a frequent contributor to current magazines and leading newspapers4 ,he has published two or three brochures on ,pasadena4 ,one of his contributions concerning this section was an illustrated article which appeared in ,harper's ,weekly4 ,it was entitled 8,the ,rose ,tournament10 and described a beautiful ceremony which takes place here annually1 on ,new ,year's day4 ,mr4 ,holder's style is finished and scholarly and his language choice1 with no waste of words4 ,being a man of cultivated taste1 with a rare poetic fancy1 he is at home here1 when treating of this lovely country with its wealth of fruits and flowers4 ,among others who have built houses and who occupy country seats at ,pasadena is ,governor ,markham1 of ,california4 ,a ,mr4 ,nelmes has a lovely ten-acre place1 and with it a generous heart4 ,a sign placed conspicuously outside his gates reads as follows3 8,all are welcome to drive through these private grounds and groves4 ,eastern tourists are each invited to pluck one orange40 ,near the ,painter ,hotel are many beautiful homes owned by 8,eastern people40 ,one is owned by ,dr4 ,green1 of ,woodbury1 ,n4 ,j41 another luxurious place is that of ,mr4 ,mc,nally1 of the publishing house in ,chicago of ,rand1 ,mc,nally ,co4 ,professor ,low1 of ,norristown1 ,pa2 ,j4 ,w4 ,scoville1 a ,chicago banker1 and ,e4 ,t4 ,hurlburt1 a capitalist of ,chicago1 are owners of fine estates1 and of less notable places there are owners in ,pasadena by the hundred4 ,it strikes you as rather odd to find winter and summer together1 hand in hand as it were4 ,at your feet flowers2 raise your head and snow on the mountain peaks is visible to the naked eye4 ,the one-horse cars which ply between ,pasadena and ,east ,pasadena1 ,california1 like some of the one-horse cars of some other cities1 have a driver who acts as conductor also1 but the driver in the ,pasadena cars serves as collector as well4 ,there is no automatical nor mechanical contrivance to receive the fares1 nor is there any way of recording them4 ,when a passenger gets on the driver leaves the front platform1 and1 letting the horse take care of himself1 or handing the reins to a front-platform passenger1 he runs back and collects the new fare4 ,there are not many cars on the line--one starts only every half hour--and as most of the passengers are through passengers1 and few get on or off between the two points named1 the animal being very docile1 there is no difficulty in one man doing the whole work4 ,the driver getting on and off his car reminds me of the elevator in ,philp's ,hotel1 ,glasgow1 which will not budge upward if there are as many as four or five people in the car4 ,the man who runs it gives the rope a pull1 on the ground floor1 then leaves the car1 walks up the stairs1 getting up to the second or third flight in ample time to give the rope another pull and to let the passengers out4 ,some people talk of the winter months in ,california as 8the rainy season40 ,this may be an old story1 told of what was the case years ago4 ,it certainly is not true to-day4 ,examining the records1 ,i find that from ,january #e to ,february #a of this year there was no rain at all in ,pasadena1 and in all of that time there were but two cloudy days--,january #bc and ,january #bh4 ,i have been in ,southern ,california now for about three weeks and have seen it rain only on two days and one night--two days in ,los ,angeles and one night1 for one hour1 at ,coronado ,beach4 ,i don't advise you to throw away your umbrella1 as did a tourist from ,colorado when coming here1 but my experience would show that there is very little use for such an article in ,southern ,california1 even in what used to be called 8the rainy season40 ,illustration ,,los ,,angeles ,,los ,,angeles1 ,march #ag4 ,if you are going from ,los ,angeles to ,san ,diego1 or vice versa1 don't go by boat unless you have a great affection for the sea4 ,first1 you must change at ,san ,pedro1 from cars to boat2 second1 the waterway occupies much more time2 but what is most important1 if you go by rail1 over the ,sante ,f route1 you get magnificent and diversified views of the ocean1 close views of foot hills and distant views of snow-capped mountains4 ,you pass through a fertile country1 see picturesque cottages1 large sheep and cattle ranches1 and great rifts in the mountains that make you smile when you think of 8gaps0 in the east1 which are so widely advertised4 ,the train skirts the edge of the sea for scores of miles and recalls similar scenic features of land and water which you admire in travelling from ,aberdeen to ,ballater over the 8,great ,north of ,scotland ,railway10 a pretty little road with a big sounding name4 ,if you should have to stop on a switch1 or for a 8heated journal10 for five or ten minutes1 you can step off the car platform and in a few minutes you can gather a large bouquet of sweet1 wild flowers1 among them fragrant 8mignonette0 as they call it here4 ,southern ,california might well be named the land of flowers1 and this branch of the ,sante ,f is entitled to be called by that much abused term1 picturesque4 ,,florida ,,oranges 8,,beaten40--,i wrote last season about some ,florida oranges which ,mr4 ,orvis showed me at the ,windsor ,hotel1 ,jacksonville4 ,the largest of them1 if ,i remember aright1 measured thirteen inches in circumference and weighed twenty-three ounces4 ,i asked1 8who can beat these80 ,they are 8beaten40 ,this morning ,i weighed an orange in ,los ,angeles which turned the beam at thirty-three ounces and which measured nineteen and one-quarter inches4 ,this particular orange was light for its size1 because it was not quite ripe nor 8full0 when picked4 ,it came from ,george ,bunce's grove 7pray do not print this 8grave07 at ,rivera1 a small town nine miles from ,los ,angeles4 ,the grove was only set out in #ahhh4 ,all the oranges on the tree from which this one was picked were as large and as heavy as the one described1 but there were only three of them4 ,all the ticket brokers' offices1 all the fruit stores1 segar shops and all the shops of small traders and of places patronized by men have their doors and windows thrown open during business hours4 ,no 8protection0 from the weather is needed4 ,it is never cold enough for closed doors or windows in the daytime4 ,nor are some of these places of business closed even at night except by strong iron-wire netting covering the fronts of the stores4 ,this open feature strikes a visitor as very strange at first1 but one soon becomes accustomed to it4 ,all through the winter open street cars are used4 ,three years ago1 when the ,los ,angeles boom was at its height1 the foundation was laid near ,main street for what was intended to be the largest hotel in the ,united ,states4 ,there it stood and there it stands to-day 7the foundation71 the bricks appearing just one foot above the ground level4 ,these bricks enclose a space of two acres4 ,pullman1 of sleeping-car fame1 was one of those interested1 and he says that the idea has not been entirely abandoned4 ,the idea may yet exist but the open lots and the brick foundation look very lonesome4 ,meanwhile ,mr4 ,o4 ,t4 ,johnson erected a very handsome hotel1 ,the ,westminster1 on the corner of ,main and ,fourth streets1 which will accommodate two hundred and fifty guests4 ,the site of the ,westminster is choice2 the house contains all the modern improvements2 it is well furnished and well patronized4 ,as ,i write1 in my bedroom of the ,westminster ,hotel1 looking north ,i can see1 without rising from my seat1 great high mountains covered with snow4 ,they present a most beautiful picture in this clear atmosphere1 with the sun shining upon them4 ,that 8cranky critic10 as the ,new ,york ,hotel ,gazette calls ,max ,o',rell1 would be suited at the ,westminster ,hotel4 ,o',rell complains because in ,american hotels guests have regular seats2 that each person upon entering the dining-room is not allowed to sit just where he pleases4 ,the contrary is the rule in the hotel mentioned4 ,a notice is prominently posted near the elevator which reads3 8,positively no seats reserved in the dining-room40 ,the waiters are young1 intelligent ,american girls of a good class1 some from ,new ,york and some from ,nebraska1 all uniformed in white4 ,they look neat and clean1 are alert to take an order and quick in serving it4 ,strawberry short-cake was part of the dessert at to-day's luncheon in the ,hotel ,westminster4 ,fresh-picked strawberries are served every morning for breakfast4 ,not a dozen or two small1 hard berries1 such as ,i have seen served for a 8portion0 at hotel tables in ,florida during ,february1 but a saucerful for each guest of large1 ripe berries that have a delicious flavor4 ,strawberry ice-cream was on the dinner menu--the cream made1 not from 8strawberry flavoring10 but of the honest fruit4 ,fresh peas and ,lima beans figure on the bill1 also oranges in profusion1 picked from the groves hard by4 ,all the way between ,new ,orleans1 ,la41 and ,los ,angeles1 ,cal41 on the ,southern ,pacific railroad1 you pay five to ten cents each for oranges2 as soon as you reach ,los ,angeles1 boys with baskets of the golden fruit swarm about the cars crying out1 8,oranges1 three for a nickel1 six for a dime40 ,if you have a little patience you will hear1 8,oranges1 eight for a dime10 and if you wait till the train is about to start you can get ten for a dime4 ,possibly after you are out of hearing they are sold at ten cents a dozen4 ,in the cars of the ,southern ,pacific railroad that run between ,los ,angeles and the seaport town of ,san ,pedro appears this printed notice3 8,,warning3--,passengers are hereby warned against playing games of chance with strangers1 of betting on three card monte1 strap1 or other games4 ,you will surely be robbed if you do40 ,illustration ,,the ,,california4 ,,san ,,francisco1 ,april #a1 #ahia4 ,california being one of the largest of these ,united ,states1 the ,californians thought that their chief city should have large hotels1 so they built in ,san ,francisco the ,baldwin ,house1 the ,lick ,house1 the ,occidental and larger than any of these1 the ,palace ,hotel1 8larger than any hotel in existence10 it is claimed4 ,whether this claim is well founded or not1 the ,palace is large enough to suit the most extravagant ,american ideas4 ,it occupies three acres of ground4 ,it has seven hundred and fifty-five bedrooms2 number of rooms all told1 ten hundred and fifteen4 ,but with the growth of the ,state and the growth of culture and good taste1 ,californians and tourists from other ,states demanded something above and beyond mere size2 and so a few months ago was erected 8,the ,california40 ,there are several 8,california ,hotels0 in ,san ,francisco1 in fact1 an old house directly opposite the ,california now calls itself 8,the ,new ,california10 probably because the name is new4 ,so many houses with names near alike give trouble to the ,post-office people1 but the title of the house of which ,i write is simply 8,the ,california40 ,it is in a central and accessible part of the city--in ,bush street1 just off ,kearney street1 which runs nearly parallel with ,market1 being not far from the ,chronicle building1 which with its great clock tower running up hundreds of feet in the air1 serves as a finger or sign-post from many parts of the city4 ,the front is of cedar-colored sandstone1 and with its modern1 low-arched entrances and high1 round towers1 is uncommonly pleasing to the eye4 ,there are one hundred and forty rooms in the house1 and it is nine stories high1 the higher floors being most desirable4 ,the light is better as you ascend1 and the views from the windows across the bay and the ,golden ,gate are a constant delight4 ,from my bedroom window ,i can plainly see the graceful movements of the white squadron1 which1 with the green hills in the far distance make a magnificent picture4 ,the ,california was erected by 8an estate10 and the estate considered not the expense4 ,they started out with the idea to build a hotel as near perfection as possible1 and they succeeded4 ,every known precaution is taken against fire4 ,it was the intention from the first to build a house as proof against fire as men1 money and materials could make it4 ,scientists were consulted as to sanitation and plumbing1 and to these points special thought and attention were given1 ,such luxurious fittings in marble and silver plate ,i have never seen surpassed1 if equalled2 not even in my recent ten-thousand-mile tour through the ,south and ,west1 and ,i have visited hotels that cost all the way from one to three millions of dollars4 ,instead of marble and brass1 which are used so freely in large ,american hotels1 rare and beautiful woods prevail in decorating the interior of the new house4 ,the ground floor is finished in quartered oak1 the second in bird's-eye maple1 the third and fourth in sycamore1 the fifth and sixth in red birch1 and the seventh1 eighth and ninth in oak4 ,the wood was cut1 carved and polished especially for the building1 and is of the most exquisitely beautiful grain4 ,max ,o',rell would be pleased4 ,printed rules are not posted on all the bedroom doors3 it would be an act of vandalism to thrust a nail into hard wood of such high polish and beautiful grain4 ,the furniture and carpets harmonize in colors and are very rich3 there seems to have been no thought of economy4 ,the bedrooms are furnished as you would furnish your own apartment1 provided you had a large bank account4 ,they only lack pictures1 mantel ornaments and such dainty etceteras1 as you find1 for instance1 in the bedrooms of ,long's ,hotel in ,london1 to give them a finished1 homelike and elegant air4 ,some idea as to the extent to which this wood decoration is carried1 may be gained when it is told that the wood used to decorate the parlor and music-room cost six thousand dollars1 and yet they are small apartments when compared1 say1 with those of the ,windsor ,hotel1 ,new ,york4 ,the music-room adjoins the parlor1 and is only separated from it by a pair of portires4 ,it is circular1 with a frescoed dome4 ,it is only twenty-four feet in diameter2 but a veritable bijou is this music-room4 ,it has tables and a cabinet of onyx1 pieces of statuary and bronze1 two piano lamps and a pedestal upon which stands a vase decorated with scenes painted by a ,french artist4 ,the vase itself is three feet high4 ,there are two semi-circular upholstered recesses in this room curtained in front4 ,occasionally these recesses are put to a very good use4 ,i have seen young couples1 a modern ,claude and ,pauline1 engaged in very close conversation behind the curtains1 whispering 8soft nothings0 to each other4 8,soft0 without doubt were the words spoken1 and1 so far as ,i heard1 they amounted to nothing4 ,in the central front wall of this room there is a window1 and pendant in this window is a colored lamp in which electric light is continually burning4 ,there are similar lamps hanging in each of the cozy recesses--the scene1 with its ,moorish surroundings1 reminding you of an ,oriental synagogue1 in which there is a similar lamp1 and in which1 according to ,jewish custom in public places of worship1 the light is never allowed to go out4 ,of electric lamps1 there are twenty-five hundred in the house4 ,there is a ladies' waiting-room which is strictly reserved for ladies2 there is a ladies' billiard-room1 as well as one for gentlemen2 there is a banqueting-room for public dinners at the top of the house1 and at the bottom of the house there are cellars which contain a stock of choice wines valued at twenty thousand dollars4 ,the ,european plan is gaining in popularity in this country4 ,when you proceed to write your name on the register at the ,palace ,hotel the clerk asks1 8,european or ,american plan80 ,at the ,california no such question is propounded2 it is kept entirely on the ,european plan4 ,but they have a restaurant which is a feature1 if not the feature of the house4 ,it measures #abj #cj feet1 it has tiled floor1 mirrored walls1 beautifully decorated ceilings and countless electric lamps4 ,during the dinner hour a band1 stationed in a half-hidden gallery at the end of the restaurant1 performs music that is properly called pleasing--light selections which suggest good cheer1 and which no doubt aid digestion4 ,the restaurant is entered from the street as well as from the interior1 and such is its popularity that it is patronized by many people who are not otherwise guests of the house4 ,it is equal in style of service to any caf ,i know of--to the ,caf ,savarin or the ,brunswick in ,new ,york2 in fact1 the manager1 ,a4 ,f4 ,kinzler1 is a son of ,francis ,kinzler of the ,brunswick4 ,the question of moustached waiters was easily settled at the ,california4 ,they are skilled and experienced ,french and ,swiss waiters1 and there was no demur to the order1 shave the upper lip4 ,,salt ,,lake ,,city4 ,,salt ,,lake ,,city1 ,,utah1 ,april #f1 #ahia4 ,on the last ,sunday of last ,september ,i was one among the five thousand people who enjoyed the masterly eloquence of ,spurgeon at his ,tabernacle in ,london2 to-day1 ,monday1 ,i was in the ,mormon ,tabernacle1 where a conference was being held1 and in which were gathered as many people as the great building would hold1--seated and standing1 twelve thousand4 ,several ,mormon elders held forth1 but what they said did not particularly interest me4 ,it was1 for the most part1 a defense of their form of 8religion10 and they claimed they had a right1 in this free country1 to teach and practice their peculiar doctrine4 ,the acoustic properties of this great edifice are excellent2 ,i tested them in different parts of the house1 and heard almost every word that was said by the several speakers4 ,each spoke but for a short time1 ten or fifteen minutes4 ,the most interesting part of ,monday's 8session0 to my mind was the musical part1 a chorus of two hundred and fifty male and female voices singing to the rich and powerful tones of what is claimed to be the largest organ but one in the world4 ,a strange feature of the assemblage was the great number of young children and babes in arms2 the crowd of baby carriages in the halls and entrances being very noticeable4 ,the exterior of the ,tabernacle1 from its oval shape1 is often likened to half an egg bisected lengthwise2 to me it looks like a tortoise1 with its low curved roof and its remarkably short pillars1 only a few feet apart4 ,but it is a mammoth tortoise1 #bej #aej feet1 with not a column nor a pillar to obstruct the view--the largest span of unsupported wooden roof in the world4 ,the ,temple in ,salt ,lake ,city1 the corner-stone of which was laid on the twelfth of ,april1 #ahec1 is1 like the municipal buildings in ,philadelphia1 the ,city ,hall in ,san ,francisco and the ,cathedral in ,cologne1 still unfinished1 although #c1ejj1jjj has been expended in its construction so far4 ,the ,temple's dimensions are #bjj #ajj feet4 ,it is built entirely of granite4 ,the towers are beautiful4 ,when completed they will be #bjj feet high4 ,a marble slab #ab #c feet is inserted in the centre tower4 ,upon that slab appears this inscription in gold letters3 8,holiness to the ,lord1 the house of the ,lord4 ,built by the ,church of ,jesus ,christ1 of latter-day saints4 ,commenced ,april #f1 #ahec4 ,completed0--space is left under the word 8completed0 in which to insert the date1 but that space may not be filled during the next quarter of a century4 ,the first blocks of granite for the building were hauled from the quarries1 a distance of twenty miles1 by oxen1 but for many years past the granite has been brought to the city by a railroad planned originally by ,mormons4 ,salt ,lake1 on account of its unpaved streets1 must be miserable as a place of residence4 ,in wet weather the mud in the streets is from six inches to two feet deep1 and in dry weather the dust is intolerable4 ,it is probably not quite so bad in these respects as ,key ,west1 ,florida1 but it is always disagreeable enough4 ,yet the city is well laid out2 all the streets are over one hundred feet wide2 there is a good system of electric street-cars1 and there are many fine granite and brick business blocks4 ,salt ,lake has an evident air of prosperity4 ,its population has more than doubled in the past ten years4 ,in #ahhj it was #bj1jjj2 in #ahij #de1jjj4 ,brigham street1 the ,fifth avenue of ,salt ,lake1 contains not a few private residences of which any city might be proud4 ,the leading hotel is 8,the ,templeton10 owned by a company of which ,d4 ,c4 ,young is president4 ,the manager of the hotel is ,alonzo ,young4 ,the president and the manager are both sons of ,brigham ,young1 but are half brothers only4 ,brigham sleeps with a couple of his wives in a cemetery a few hundred feet from the hotel4 ,the ,templeton is new and substantial1 but it was not erected for a hotel1 and it lacks some conveniences which you expect to find4 ,it is better adapted for an office building1 which was its original purpose4 ,the dining-room is on the top floor1 as is the dining-room of the ,auditorium in ,chicago1 and the ,vendome in ,new ,york1 and as is the kitchen of the ,windsor ,hotel in ,london4 ,from this room in the ,templeton1 if you secure a choice seat1 you get most magnificent views4 ,you are surrounded by snow-covered mountains1 and to the west you see the principal buildings of the city--the ,mormon ,tabernacle1 the ,temple and the ,assembly ,hall1 all enclosed and fenced within a ten-acre lot4 ,we were unfortunate in the time of our visit to ,salt ,lake4 ,the city was crowded on account of the ,mormon conference and all the hotels were full4 ,at the ,templeton they had an insufficient number of waiters and they served saucers of ice cream on warm plates4 ,but perhaps we are hypercritical in our notes on the shortcomings of hotels in ,salt ,lake2 some allowance must be made for the fact that we had just come from a week at 8,the ,california0--that new and beautiful hotel in ,san ,francisco which is kept by ,a4 ,f4 ,kinzler1 the comforts and elegancies of which1 fresh in our memory and with their flavor1 so to speak1 still lingering on our palate1 had for the time spoiled us for less perfect accommodations and an inferior style of living4 ,i had occasion to look at the city directory of ,salt ,lake and in turning over the leaves ,i noticed that there are living no less than nine widows of the lamented apostle of ,mormonism1 ,brigham ,young4 ,illustration ,,the ,,auditorium ,,hotel4 ,,chicago1 ,may #af1 #ahia4 ,during his engagement here ,i met ,mr4 ,willard1 the ,english actor1 walking on ,michigan avenue1 with ,mr4 ,hatton1 the ,english dramatist1 for companion4 8,mr4 ,willard1 where are you staying10 ,i happened to ask4 8,at the ,richelieu10 said the handsome and intellectual-looking ,englishman4 8,i looked at the ,auditorium10 he went on to say1 8but it appeared to me too large1 and such a stronghold that it almost reminded me of a prison40 ,i am not surprised that its great size was an objection in his eyes1 because ,englishmen prefer smaller1 quieter and more home-like houses2 those great palaces in ,northumberland avenue1 ,london1 were built rather for ,american patronage4 ,but that the ,auditorium looks as solid and strong as the rock of ,gibraltar should not be regarded as an objection4 ,in the eyes of most people this is a great advantage1 especially when we remember the flimsy character of many of our hotels--those at the seaside1 for instance1 or those in small towns1 to say nothing of many make-shift hotels in ,new ,york4 ,among other excellent features of the ,auditorium building there is this to commend it3 it is called and is believed to be absolutely fireproof4 ,the first and second story outside walls are of dark granite1 the upper walls are of dark ,bedford stone4 ,the materials used interiorly are iron1 brick1 terra cotta1 ,italian marble and hard wood4 ,the whole structure covers one and a half acres4 ,it stands on three streets1 ,michigan avenue1 ,wabash avenue and ,congress street1 with a frontage measuring seven hundred and ten feet4 ,the height of the main building is ten stories2 there are eight floors in the tower--two above the main tower--twenty stories in all2 the entire height from street level to top of tower two hundred and seventy feet4 ,some authorities estimate the cost as high as four millions2 the lowest estimate ,i have seen printed or heard mentioned is three million two hundred thousand dollars4 ,it is possibly safe to say that about three millions were invested in the enterprise1 and ,i am told that it has yielded a profit from the start--the hotel certainly has4 ,the structure includes a theatre called 8the largest and most magnificent in the world0--the 8,auditorium0--used for conventions and meetings1 having a stage and what is called 8the most costly organ in the world40 ,of course1 being ,western1 everything must be the biggest and costliest4 ,there is also a ,recital ,hall1 which seats five hundred persons4 ,the business portion of the building includes stores on the ground floor and one hundred and thirty-six offices above1 some of which are in the tower4 ,the ,united ,states ,signal ,service occupies part of the seventeenth1 eighteenth and nineteenth floors of the tower4 ,from this tower you may get an extended view of the city when the fog from the lake is not dense1 and when the chimneys of the town are not emitting black smoke4 ,the best time to get a view is on a clear ,sunday1 when many of the factory fires are extinguished4 ,the ,auditorium building is owned by 8,the ,chicago ,auditorium ,association10 and is managed by them2 the hotel proper1 which forms only a part of the great structure1 is managed by 8,the ,auditorium ,hotel ,company10 and is a separate business concern4 ,it is kept on both the ,european and ,american plans4 ,for those who choose the former there is a grand caf on the ground floor2 for those who prefer the latter there is a dining-room on the top floor1 on which floor the kitchen is also situated4 ,to the dining-room two elevators are constantly running4 ,in the whole building there are thirteen elevators3 in the hotel proper there are eight elevators1 five for the use of guests1 three for servants4 ,besides the caf below1 and the public dining-room above1 there are a number of private dining-rooms1 and on the sixth floor there is a banqueting hall which will seat five hundred people and which may be called magnificent4 ,it is built of steel1 on trusses1 and spans one hundred and twenty feet over 8,the ,auditorium40 ,on the panelled walls are painted beautiful scenes in oil by skilled artists4 ,it does not lack for light1 this banqueting hall2 it contains four hundred electric lamps4 ,in fact1 the electric plant of the building is the largest private plant in the world--it is ,western1 you know4 ,its first cost was #ajj1jjj and it costs to operate #age per day4 ,no electric department in any place1 either public or private1 that ,i have visited is cleaner1 neater or more methodical in system4 ,the tools are hung on the walls1 behind glass doors4 ,no workman may remove a tool without giving a receipt for the same and the tool must be returned to its place immediately after it has served the purpose for which it was removed or the man pays a fine4 8,the office0 is not a small1 unimportant looking apartment like the 8counting house0 of an ,english hotel4 ,it is after the ,american style1 large and showy1 but there is not a waste nor a wilderness of space as there is in some ,chicago hotels1 the 8offices0 in some of the ,chicago houses being used not only for a public rendezvous but also for a public thoroughfare--people pass through them in going from one street to another to save themselves the trouble of walking around the block4 ,the floor of the office of the ,auditorium ,hotel is of ,italian marble--mosaic work in artistic designs4 ,to go into figures again1 there are of mosaic floors in the house fifty thousand square feet1 containing fifty million separate pieces of marble1 each piece put in by hand4 ,the ceiling1 which is richly decorated1 and from which depend numberless electric lights1 is supported in the centre by five marble columns nine feet in circumference4 ,the chairs and sofas1 here and there1 are of oak1 plush-covered1 and the walls are of nothing less luxurious than ,mexican onyx1 than which for the purpose probably no material is richer4 ,leading from the office to the parlor floor there is a white marble staircase twelve feet wide4 ,this combination of rich materials and artistic work1 with ample space1 gives the ,auditorium office a gorgeous1 yes1 a palace-like appearance4 ,the dining-room on the tenth floor1 measuring #age by #dh feet1 affords extended views of the lake and a stretch of ,chicago's grand boulevard1 ,michigan avenue1 as far as the eye can reach4 ,the lower part of its walls is of mahogany panels2 the six massive pillars which support the ceiling are of mahogany1 the tables and chairs and ,venetian blinds of the same costly wood4 ,as well as six pillars1 there are six arches in this room1 which also has an arched ceiling4 ,the walls above the mahogany dado up to the ceiling are in yellow and gold1 the ceiling delicately and beautifully frescoed4 ,on one of the semi-circular arched walls above the mahogany pillars which support it1 is painted a lake fishing scene1 on the other a duck-shooting scene4 ,the latter is taken from the estate of ,ferd4 ,w4 ,peck at ,lake ,oconomowoc1 ,wisconsin4 ,it represents two or three men in sporting costume in a canoe1 which is half hidden by tall grass and cat tails4 ,the man in the bow stands ready to take aim at a flock of ducks which are preparing for flight4 ,mr4 ,peck is one of the originators of the ,auditorium enterprise and the present president of the company4 ,there are five hundred electric lights in the dining-room2 the floor is of marble mosaic4 ,for the ,american plan two dinners are served4 ,you can take your choice or eat both if your appetite serves2 first dinner1 from twelve till two2 evening dinner from six to eight4 ,the bedrooms are heated by steam and also have fireplaces4 ,of course1 they are lighted by electricity4 ,the bedroom in which this is penned measures twenty-one by thirteen feet4 ,as there is no step-ladder at hand ,i must guess at the height of the ceiling--about fourteen feet4 ,the dimensions given do not include a very large clothes closet built in the wall and a very small washroom1 too small1 indeed1 but supplied with hot and cold water4 ,on either side of this bedroom are similar rooms each having two heavy1 double doors of oak1 so that while the rooms are 8communicating0 the sound is not 8communicated0 from one room to the other4 ,the walls are painted and frescoed in tints to match the wood-work1 which is of light varnished oak4 ,part of the furniture is of dark1 highly polished oak1 the rest of cherry1 covered with olive or old gold plush4 ,these hues in turn match the ,wilton carpet which is bordered1 and upon which1 here and there1 is a handsome rug4 ,the curtains are of reddish-brown plush1 lined with old-gold silk2 inside these are lace curtains1 and against the windows are ,venetian blinds of oak4 ,the windows are of plate glass1 large and massive--much too heavy1 in fact1 or else the sashes are not put in by a master hand4 ,they are raised or lowered with great difficulty1 notwithstanding a pair of brass handles is attached to each lower sash4 ,for such large1 weighty windows they have a better plan in the ,windsor ,hotel1 ,london4 ,long1 loose ropes with light1 wooden handles attached are fastened to the upper and lower parts of the upper sash1 and by this method the heavy windows are raised or lowered with perfect ease4 ,but ,i have wandered away in thought from my apartment in the ,auditorium1 which is lighted by a handsome1 seven-lamp electrolier pendant from the ceiling1 with a convenient tap just inside the door to turn on or off as you enter or leave the room4 ,there is an electric dial in each room1 the invention of the ,new ,haven ,clock ,company4 ,upon this dial the inventor and hotel-keeper combined have anticipated as many as twenty-four wants of the guest1 from a chambermaid to a doctor2 from a telegraph blank to a hansom cab4 ,max ,o',rell may poke fun at this anticipation of so many wants in ,american hotels1 but if they had such an arrangement in ,continental hotels1 their system would be greatly improved4 ,you need not trouble yourself about good air or bad air at the ,auditorium3 the house is ventilated automatically1 by machinery4 ,among other modern improvements is a letter chute which extends to the top of the house4 ,your letters from any floor drop into a locked ,united ,states post-office box1 opened at intervals by the official carrier4 ,there are four hundred and fifty rooms4 ,as hotel men usually reckon 8about one and a half guests to a room0 there is accommodation for six hundred people4 ,charge for rooms3 ,european plan1 #b to #e per day2 ,american plan1 #d to #f per day4 ,the house is managed by ,james ,h4 ,breslin and ,r4 ,h4 ,southgate4 ,it is not necessary to explain who these men are1 and to commend them1 at this late day1 would be no compliment4 ,,max ,o',,rell ,,on ,,american ,,hotels4 ,m4 ,paul ,blouet 7,max ,o',rell7 is a brilliant writer and a clever1 entertaining talker1 but in his article in the ,north ,american ,review for ,january1 #ahia1 entitled 8,reminiscences of ,american ,hotels10 he shows that he lacks fairness as a critic1 and that he writes without the necessary knowledge of his subject4 ,his remarks concerning the ,american methods of conducting hotels may be amusing1 but when he makes comparisons between ,english and ,american hotels and their systems1 it is evident that as a critic he is open to criticism4 ,in his opening page he says3 8,when you enter a hotel not a salute1 not a word1 not a smile of welcome4 ,the negro takes your bag and makes a sign that your case is settled4 ,you follow him4 ,for the time being you lose your personality and become ,no4 #cge1 as you would in jail40 ,the facts are just the contrary4 ,the clerks1 porters and waiters in ,american hotels are only too glad if they can learn your name4 ,they will pronounce it and announce you on the smallest possible provocation4 ,max ,o',rell's remarks on this point would exactly fit if he were writing about some large hotels in ,london patronized by ,americans4 ,at those houses1 the ,langham excepted1 you do not enter your name in a register1 and you are known only by the number of the room you occupy4 ,if a friend calls1 his card will be carried about on a silver salver by a little page whose duty it is1 in going through the halls and public rooms in search of you1 to bawl out at the top of his voice not your name1 but the number of the apartment you occupy2 and to this you are expected to respond4 ,but people are not so apt to know the hotel customs which obtain in cities where they live1 and that may account for ,m4 ,blouet's ignorance4 ,this ,french-,english humorist tries to make it appear that in every ,american hotel the fire-escape consists of 8twenty yards of coiled rope40 ,i believe that the ,new ,york ,state ,legislature expects all hotels in that ,state to make such provision1 but if it is done in ,new ,york it is certainly not the case in other ,states1 as ,i know1 for ,i have lived at hotels in many ,states of the ,union during the past few months1 westward as far as ,california1 and as far south as ,new ,orleans4 ,mr4 ,o',rell feels very much injured because order and method reign in the dining-room4 ,he says3 8,when you enter the dining-room you must not believe you can go and sit where you like4 ,the chief waiter assigns you a seat and you must take it4 ,i have constantly seen ,americans stop on the threshold of the dining-room and wait until the chief waiter had returned from placing a guest to come and fetch them in their turn4 ,i never saw them venture alone and take an empty seat without the sanction of the waiter40 ,chaos would reign indeed if the regular guests of a hotel had no regular seats1 and if every newcomer were allowed to sit where he pleased4 ,of course the head waiter assigns seats4 ,this good custom obtains in ,england and ,france as it does elsewhere2 without it there would be confusion for all concerned4 ,it would be strange if such a close and keen observer1 as ,max ,o',rell certainly is1 did not make some good points in such a labored article4 ,he makes one when he objects to the solemn1 almost funereal air which pervades an ,american dining-room4 ,people can be well mannered and yet be and appear to be1 in good spirits1 whereas we seem to make a business1 a sad business of eating--it cannot be called 8dining40 ,you seldom or never hear such a thing as a laugh in our hotel dining-rooms1 and yet everybody knows that laughter is the best aid to digestion4 ,there is a time for everything1 and when should there be good cheer if not at dinner time8 ,o',rell shows that he is unfair and uninformed when he is discussing some of the important features of our hotels1 but he scores another good point when he talks of the shameful waste of food in ,american hotels4 ,i quote in full his remarks on that head4 ,they cannot be too often repeated3 8,the thing which1 perhaps1 strikes me most disagreeably in the ,american hotel dining-room is the sight of the tremendous waste of food that goes on at every meal4 ,no ,european1 ,i suppose1 can fail to be struck with this2 but to a ,frenchman it would naturally be most remarkable4 ,in ,france where1 ,i venture to say1 people live as well as anywhere else1 if not better1 there is a perfect horror of anything like waste of good food4 ,it is to me1 therefore1 a repulsive thing to see the wanton manner in which some ,americans will waste at one meal enough to feed several fellow creatures40 ,illustration 99 99 99 99 99 ,,the ,,home ,,journal1 ,a ,,weekly ,,newspaper ,,of ,,literature1 ,,art ,,and ,,society1 ,,founded ,,in #ahdf ,,by ,,the ,,well-,,known ,,poets1 ,,geo4 ,p4 ,,morris ,,and ,n4 ,p4 ,,willis1 retains its prestige as the exponent of that literary and art culture which gives grace and refinement to social intercourse4 ,readers at a distance will find the best life of the metropolis reflected in its pages4 ,it is also in an especial sense an ,,international ,,journal1 and by its correspondence and essays brings its readers into touch with the social life of the ,,great ,,european ,,centres ,,of ,,culture4 ,,the ,,home ,,journal contains more advertisements of ,,summer ,,and ,,winter ,,resort ,,hotels1 and devotes more editorial space to them than any other newspaper4 ,it has particular value as an advertising medium for ,,european ,,hotels1 being the organ of cultivated and fashionable ,americans--those who pass their summers in ,europe4 ,,published ,,every ,,wednesday4 ,subscription1 #b4jj per ,year4 ,,five ,,cents ,a ,,copy4 ,,morris ,,phillips ,,co41 ,publishers1 #bdj ,broadway1 ,new ,york4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illustration ,,dempsey ,,carroll1 ,,the ,,art ,,stationers ,,and ,,engravers1 ,,union ,,square1 #cf ,,east #ad,,th ,,street1 ,,new ,,york ,,city4 ,,correct ,,styles4 ,,wedding ,,invitations ,,announcements ,,reception ,,visiting ,,cards4 ,,high ,,grade ,,stationery1 ,,monogram1 ,,address ,,and ,,heraldic ,,dies4 ,,hand ,,painted ,,menus ,,and ,,dinner ,,cards4 ,,rich ,,leather ,,goods1 ,,plain ,,and ,,silver ,,mounted4 ,,imported ,,stationery ,,novelties4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,the 8,,world',s ,,greatest ,,passenger ,,train40 ,this proud title has been bestowed by an appreciative public on the ,,pennsylvania ,,limited4 ,it is well deserved because the train affords more conveniences1 more comforts and more luxuries than any other train in the world4 ,one may eat1 sleep1 work or transact business as if in hotel or club4 ,to this end there are luxurious sleeping cars1 dining cars1 ladies' maids1 bath rooms for both sexes1 a barber shop1 financial news and stock reports1 stenographers and type writers1 ,united ,states ,mail boxes and a library4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,it is the favorite train between ,new ,york and ,chicago1 and a trip on it is a long-remembered leasure tour4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,the ,pennsylvania ,limited leaves ,new ,york from the ,pennsylvania ,railroad ,station1 foot of ,desbrosses and ,cortlandt ,streets1 every morning at #aj o'clock for ,chicago and ,cincinnati4 ,j4 ,r4 ,,wood1 ,general ,passenger ,agent4 ,,chas4 ,e4 ,,pugh1 ,general ,manager4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,atlantic ,,coast ,,line ,,via ,,washington4 ,,short ,,line ----,,between---- ,,boston1 ,,philadelphia1 ,,new ,,york1 ,,baltimore1 ,,washington1 ----,,and---- ,,richmond1 ,,savannah1 ,,wilmington1 ,,brunswick1 ,,charleston1 ,,albany1 ,,thomasville1 ,,palatka1 ,,jacksonville1 ,,sanford1 ,,st4 ,,augustine1 ,,tampa1 ,,punta ,,gorda1 ,,all ,,florida ,,points1 ,,and ,,havana ,,cuba4 ,,eastern ,,offices3 #bbi ,broadway1 ,new ,york4 #cc ,south #c;d ,st41 ,philadelphia4 #bbh ,washington ,st41 ,boston4 #ajf ,east ,german ,st41 ,baltimore4 #eaa ,pennsylvania ,avenue1 ,washington4 99 99 99 99 99 ----,,to ,,all---- ,,winter ,,resorts ----,,in---- ,south ,georgia1 ,florida1 ,cuba1 the ,west ,indies and ,mexico1 ,via ,,havana1 ,,cuba1 ,,reached ,,by ,,the ,plant ,system ----,,of---- ,,railway ,,and ,,steamship ,,lines1 ,in connection with ,pennsylvania ,r4 ,r41 via ,new ,york1 ,washington and ,atlantic ,coast ,railways1 and with the principal railway lines between all cities of the ,west and ,south-west1 forming through train and sleeping-car service1 and ,,jacksonville1 ,,st4 ,,augustine1 ,,tampa ,,and ,,port ,,tampa1 ,,florida4 ,,fast ,,and ,,commodious ,,steamships ,,between ,port ,tampa1 ,key ,west and ,havana2 ,port ,tampa and ,mobile2 ,port ,tampa and ,st4 ,james ,city 7,pine ,island71 ,punta ,rassa1 ,fort ,myers1 ,naples1 and resorts of the ,gulf ,coast2 ,port ,tampa and ,manatee ,river4 ,the magnificent ,tampa ,bay ,hotel1 at ,tampa1 and the ,seminole1 at ,winter ,park1 on the ,south ,florida ,r4 ,r41 are open during the season of ,winter ,tourist travel1 and are maintained at a high standard of excellence4 ,the ,inn at ,port ,tampa is open the entire year1 and is in an attractive1 healthful and convenient place for passengers to await the arrival and departure of steamers and trains4 ,for further information apply to any ,railroad ,ticket ,agent1 or to ,j4 ,d4 ,,hashagen1 ,,eastern ,,agent1 #bfa ,,broadway1 ,,new ,,york4 ,,fred4 ,,roblin1 ,,traveling ,,pass4 ,,agent1 #bfa ,,broadway1 ,,new ,,york4 ,h4 ,b4 ,,plant1 ,,president1 #ab ,,west #bc;,d ,,street1 ,,new ,,york4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,the ,,de ,,soto1 ,,savannah1 ,,ga4 ,illustration ,one of the most elegantly appointed hotels in the world4 ,accommodations for #ejj guests4 ,special rates for families and parties remaining a week or longer4 ,tourists will find ,savannah one of the most interesting and beautiful cities in the entire ,south4 ,no place more healthy or desirable as a winter resort4 ,send for ,descriptive ,illustrated ,booklet4 ,,watson ,,powers4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,paris4 ,,hotel ,,paris4 ,,anglo-,,fran,,ais1 #f ,,rue ,,castiglione4 #f ,illustration ,this first-class ,hotel1 situated in the best part of the metropolis1 opposite the ,hotel ,continental and the ,tuileries ,gardens1 is highly recommended for comfort1 cuisine1 moderate charges and sanitary arrangements2 ,otis ,american elevator4 ,,vargues1 ,proprietor4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,hotel ,,binda1 #aa rue de ,l',echelle1 ,,avenue ,,de ,l',,opera1 ,,paris4 ,large and small apartments2 lift to each floor2 smoking and drawing-room2 bathroom on each floor2 table d'hte1 #f francs1 from #f to #h o'clock1 at separate tables2 restaurant a la carte4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,advantageous ,,arrangements ,,made ,,with ,,families ,,wintering ,,in ,,paris4 99 99 99 99 99 ,electric ,light all over the ,house4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,charles ,,binda1 ,,proprietor1 ,late with ,delmonico1 ,new ,york4 99 99 99 99 99 ,london1 ,chatham and ,dover ,,railway4 ,a4 ,,thorne1 ,formerly at ,h4 ,b4 ,claflin ,co4's1 ,new ,york1 ,,american ,,representative ,,in ,,england1 ,london1 ,chatham ,,and ,dover ,railway1 ,,victoria ,,station1 ,,london1 ,s4 ,w41 ,attends the arrival of the principal steamships at ,liverpool and ,southampton1 and arranges for ,special ,saloon ,carriages upon either the ,north ,western and ,midland ,railways from ,liverpool1 or by the ,south ,western ,railway from ,southampton to ,london1 and thence to ,dover from ,victoria ,station by the ,london1 ,chatham and ,dover ,railway4 ,from ,dover to ,calais 7the shortest sea passage to ,france7 by the magnificent ,s4,s4 8,calais-,douvres10 8,empress10 8,victoria10 and 8,invicta10 owned and controlled solely by the ,london1 ,chatham and ,dover ,railway ,company4 ,a4 ,,thorne secures ,private ,deck ,saloons1 and from ,calais to ,paris and other prominent points ,special ,saloons and ,sleeping ,cars as required4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,telegraphic ,,address3 8,,caldover10 ,,london4 99 99 99 99 99 ,the ,london1 ,chatham and ,dover ,company's trains run from ,victoria1 ,st4 ,paul's and ,holborn ,stations through the prettiest and most picturesque parts of ,kent1 and passengers have the privilege of stopping over at ,rochester to visit the ,cathedral and the ,castle1 and at ,canterbury to view the ,cathedral 7containing the tomb of the martyr ,thomas ,becket71 and other places of interest4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,are ,,you ,,going ,,to ,,europe8 ,,edwin ,h4 ,,low1 ,low's ,exchange and ,general ,steamship ,office1 #idg ,,broadway1 ,,madison ,,square1--,,new ,,york4 #eg ,,charing ,,cross1 ,,trafalgar ,,square1 ,,london4 ,choice ,berths secured on ,,all ,,lines without extra charge4 ,cabin plans of all ,european and ,coastwise ,steamers on file1 and complete list of sailings of all ,lines to any part of the world4 ,full and reliable information given4 ,,while ,,in ,,europe have all your ,letters and ,cables sent care of ,low's ,exchange1 #eg ,charing ,cross1 ,trafalgar ,sq41 ,london2 they will be registered and numbered by ,mr4 ,low's own system1 whereby it is practically impossible for one to go astray or be lost4 ,they are promptly forwarded to any part of ,europe1 according to instructions4 ,illustration3 ,,nelson ,,monument4--,,view ,,from ,,low',s ,,exchange4 ,,postal ,,rates3 #a year1 #aj4jj2 #f mos41 #e4jj2 #c mos41 #b4ej2 #a mo41 #a4jj4 ,low's ,exchange in ,london is established for the general convenience of travelers4 ,railway and ,steamship ,tickets--to all parts--issued4 ,baggage stored and checked1 passports1 steamer chairs1 foreign moneys1 letters of credit cashed1 ,american news and newspapers1 c4 ,,low',s ,,pocket ,,cable ,,code is a handy little volume published by ,mr4 ,low for cipher cabling4 ,the cost of cabling is twenty-five cents per word4 ,by purchasing two copies of this code you have #aj1jjj cipher words and phrases by which you can reduce the expense at least four-fifths4 ,it is alphabetically arranged and so simple that anyone without the least knowledge of codes can understand it4 ,price1 #ej ,cents1 bound in ,cloth4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,the ,,california1 ,,bush ,,street1 ,,near ,,kearny1 ,,san ,,francisco1 ,,cal4 ,,the ,,acme ,,of ,,perfection ,,attained ,,in ,,american ,,hotels4 ,illustration ,it is a recognized fact that ,san ,francisco has made1 from time to time1 the greatest effort to surpass all other cities in her ,hotel accommodations1 and it must be conceded that the acme of perfection has now been reached4 ,the ,california was opened last ,december1 and there is nothing on the ,pacific ,coast1 so far as artistic taste1 elegance of appointments and lavish expenditure go1 which can compare with it4 ,the ,california is unsurpassed in style of service by the best hotels of the ,united ,states4 ,heretofore there has been no strictly ,european-plan hotel in ,san ,francisco4 ,a visit to this city is incomplete without seeing the ,california1 unquestionably the most beautiful and luxuriously furnished hotel in ,america4 ,a4 ,f4 ,,kinzler1 ,,manager4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,monterey-,,california4 ,illustration ,,midwinter ,,scenes ,,at ,,the ,,celebrated ,hotel del ,monte1 ,,monterey1 ,,cal4 ,,america',s ,,famous ,,summer ,,and ,,winter ,,resort4 ,,only #c-a_/b ,,hours ,,from ,,san ,,francisco ,by ,express ,trains of the ,southern ,pacific ,company4 ,rates for ,board3 ,by the day1 #c4jj and upward4 ,parlors1 from #a4jj to #b4ej per day1 extra4 ,children1 in children's dining-room1 #b4jj per day4 ,particular ,attention is called to the moderate charges for accommodations at this magnificent establishment4 ,the extra cost of a trip to ,california is more than counterbalanced by the difference in rates at the various ,southern ,winter ,resorts and the incomparable ,,hotel ,,del ,,monte4 ,intending ,visitors to ,california and the ,hotel del ,monte have the choice of the 8,sunset10 8,central10 or 8,shasta0 ,routes4 ,these three routes1 the three main arms of the great railway system of the ,southern ,pacific ,company1 carry the traveler through the best sections of ,california1 and any one of them will reveal wonders of climate1 products and scenery that no other part of the world can duplicate4 ,for illustrated descriptive pamphlet of the hotel1 and for information as to routes of travel1 rates for through tickets1 etc41 call upon or address ,e4 ,,hawley1 ,assistant ,general ,traffic ,manager1 ,southern ,pacific ,company1 #cdc ,broadway1 ,new ,york4 ,for further information1 address ,,george ,,sch,,newald1 ,manager ,hotel del ,monte1 ,,open ,,all ,,the ,,year ,,round4 ,,monterey1 ,,california 99 99 99 99 99 ,illustration3 ,,redondo ,,hotel ,this new but already popular seaside resort is located on the ,pacific ,ocean1 under the shelter of the prominent headland known as ,point ,vincent1 while to the south and east are the ,palos ,verdes and other hills4 ,the ,redondo ,hotel has been spoken of as the 8crowning effort of all hotels on the ,pacific ,coast10 covering over an acre of ground1 reposing gracefully upon a slight eminence 8where the broad ocean leans against the land10 with fine vistas of sea and shore meeting the eye in all directions4 ,of the #bbe rooms1 every one has a sunny exposure at some hour of the day1 every one is well ventilated and lighted1 every one is an 8outside room10 and every guest feels that his is the best suite in the house4 ,the building is supplied throughout with modern improvements4 ,it has incandescent electric lights in all the rooms and arc lights on the grounds4 ,there is cold and hot water and grates in every room4 ,the halls and lobby are heated by steam4 ,the latest and most improved hydraulic elevators are in use4 ,on the hotel grounds is the best tennis-court in the ,state1 well-arranged and complete in every detail1 with club-room1 baths1 etc4 ,there is also a nursery of several acres and a large green-house1 where the most beautiful and delicate flowers bloom the year round1 and the hotel draws from this source the freshness and fragrance of perpetual spring4 ,redondo ,beach is cooler than ,cape ,may in summer1 it is warmer than ,san ,fernandino in winter4 ,the temperature of the water of the ocean varies less than ten degrees in the course of a year1 and surf bathing is always enjoyable4 ,the bathing beach is the finest on the coast1 and is provided with a commodious bath-house and every appliance for the convenience and safety of the bathers4 ,special rates made for families and permanent guests4 ,for further information address ,,redondo ,,hotel ,,co41 ,redondo ,beach1 ,california4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illustration3 ,the ,sea ,beach ,hotel ,located upon the ,bluff4 ,commanding a view of ,ocean1 ,bay1 ,beach1 ,mountains1 ,flower ,gardens1 ,tennis and ,croquet ,grounds and ,promenades4 ,,john ,t4 ,,sullivan ,prop4 #abe ,,light ,,airy ,,rooms3 3,,first ,,class ,,service3 ,,santa ,,cruz3 ,,california4 ,the ,sea ,beach ,hotel has large1 light rooms1 affording extensive views1 wide verandas1 surf bathing1 fishing4 ,livery4 ,electric lights and electric bells4 ,rates from #b4ej per day4 ,illustrated ,souvenir mailed free4 ,address ,,john ,t4 ,,sullivan1 ,,proprietor4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,windsor ,,hotel1 ,,new ,,york4 ,,hawk ,,wetherbee4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,conveniently ,,situated ,,on ,,fifth ,,avenue1 ,,near ,,the ,,grand ,,central ,,railway ,,station1 ,,elevated ,,and ,,surface ,,tramways1 ,,theatres1 ,,places ,,of ,,amusement1 ,,churches ,,and ,,clubs4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,has ,,been ,,recently ,,fitted ,,throughout ,,with ,,the ,,latest ,,modern ,,sanitary ,,plumbing4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,the ,,drinking ,,water ,,used ,,is ,,chemically ,,pure ,,and ,,the ,,ice ,,is ,,made ,,from ,,distilled ,,water4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,cuisine ,,and ,,service ,,unsurpassed4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,cool ,,and ,,attractive ,,in ,,summer4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,comfortable ,,and ,,home-,,like ,,in ,,winter4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,stages ,,when ,,desired1 ,,will ,,meet ,,all ,,steamers ,,and ,,convey ,,passengers ,,and ,,luggage ,,direct ,,to ,,the ,,hotel ,,at ,,moderate ,,charges4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,railway ,,tickets1 ,,sleeping ,,car ,,and ,,drawing-,,room ,,car ,,accommodations ,,can ,,be ,,secured ,,in ,,the ,,hotel2 ,,cable ,,and ,,telegraph ,,office1 ,,russian ,,and ,,turkish ,,baths1 ,,and ,,every ,,comfort ,,and ,,convenience ,,for ,,travelers4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,well-,,lighted ,,and ,,ventilated ,,spacious ,,public ,,rooms1 ,,corridors1 ,,drawing-,,rooms ,,and ,,parlor ,,suites1 ,,single ,,or ,,double ,,rooms ,,with ,,or ,,without ,,baths4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,all ,,languages ,,spoken4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,your ,,advertising ,,is ,,solicited4 ,illustration3 ,,hicks' ,,newspaper ,,advertising ,,agency4 ,,established #ahfi ,,william ,,hicks4 --#aej ,,nassau ,,st41 ,n4,y4-- ,,prompt ,,careful ,,efficient ,,service4 ,estimates1 containing ,selected ,lists of ,suitable ,publications with ,rates for ,advertising1 furnished free on application4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,auditorium ,,hotel1 ,illustration ,michigan ,ave41 ,congress ,st41 and ,wabash ,ave41 ,,chicago4 ,the most massive hotel structure in the world1 built entirely of stone and iron1 ten stones high1 absolutely fire-proof4 ,overlooking ,lake ,michigan1 situated within four blocks of the business centre of the city4 ,american and ,european plans4 ,,breslin ,,southgate4 ,,gilsey ,,house1 ,corner ,broadway and ,twenty-,ninth ,street1 ,,new ,,york4 ,european ,plan4 ,j4 ,h4 ,,breslin ,,co41 ,,proprietors4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,visitors ,,to ,,europe6 ,,circular ,,credits4 ,,foreign ,,exchange4 ,cheque ,bank ,cheques are the most convenient of ,exchange to carry4 ,they are issued in books from #aj up to any amount4 ,they can be cashed at #c1jjj ,banks and #a1jjj ,hotels4 ,they are cashed in the currency of the country visited1 free of commission4 ,they are no good until signed4 ,special letters of identification are issued4 ,travellers' mail matter promptly attended to without charge4 99 99 99 99 99 ,send for circulars and testimonials1 list of ,banks and ,hotels1 etc41 or apply to ,e4 ,j4 ,,mathews ,,co41 ,bankers' ,agents1 #b ,,wall ,,st41 ,,new ,,york4 ,typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber3 laden four-house truck laden four-horse truck pg #bb previous arragements previous arrangements pg #dh but it it worth half but it is worth half pg #ee where they had aparments where they had apartments pg #eg in their minuest detail in their minutest detail pg #fc but a concensus but a consensus pg #hi an ,amerian host an ,american host pg #if not actuatly fond not actually fond pg #ajd describing the modus operandi decribing the modus operandi pg #aaj ,nelson moument1 the city prison ,nelson monument1 the city prison pg #aab more commandiug site more commanding site pg #aab his later opportunies his later opportunities pg #aba thoroughly agreeably place thoroughly agreeable place pg #abf that you most come a little later that you must come a little later pg #aeh the new ,oglethrope at ,brunswick2 the new ,oglethorpe at ,brunswick2 pg #aef the ,oglethrope the ,oglethorpe pg #afh its cleanly and aristocratic air its clean and aristocratic air pg #ahj ,landed and ,offical ,classes ,landed and ,official ,classes pg #ahc skilled landscape gardner skilled landscape gardener pg #aid owners in ,pasedena by the hundred owners in ,pasadena by the hundred pg #bbi there is a grand cafe there is a grand caf pg #bdd