,transcriber ,note ,emphasized text displayed as ,italics and ,bold4 ,mrs4 ,beeton's ,famous ,cookery ,books4 ,mrs4 ,beeton's ,book of ,household ,management4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,mrs4 ,beeton's ,family ,cookery and ,housekeeping ,book4 #es4 ,mrs4 ,beeton's ,every ,day ,cookery and ,housekeeping ,book4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,mrs4 ,beeton's ,all ,about ,cookery4 #bs4 #f;d4 ,mrs4 ,beeton's ,cookery ,book4 #as4 ,mrs4 ,beeton's ,englishwoman's ,cookery ,book4 #f;d4 ,mrs4 ,beeton's ,penny ,cookery ,book4 #a;d4 ,a ,,handbook ,,of ,,fish ,,cookery4 ,,by ,,the ,,same ,,author4 ,price #bs4 #f;d4 ,,the ,,profession ,,of ,,cookery ,,from ,a ,,french ,,point ,,of ,,view4 ,with some ,economical ,practices peculiar to the ,nation4 ,an excellent practical treatise1 well expressed1 full of sound information lucidly conveyed by a writer who really knows her subject well1 and combines fine taste with a real regard for economy4--,the ,times4 ,a ,,handbook ,,of ,,fish ,,cookery ,,how ,,to ,,buy1 ,,dress1 ,,cook1 ,,and ,,eat ,,fish ,,by ,,lucy ,h4 ,,yates ,author of ,the ,profession of ,cookery from a ,french ,point of ,view4 ,,london ,,ward1 ,,lock ,,co41 ,,limited ,,warwick ,,house1 ,,salisbury ,,square1 ,e4,c4 ,,new ,,york ,,and ,,melbourne #ahig ,,contents4 ---------- ,,page ,,introduction #a ,,part ,i4 ,,choosing ,,and ,,buying ,,fish #g ,,part ,,ii4 ,,the ,,cooking ,,of ,,fish #ag ,,part ,,iii4 ,,tested ,,recipes #bc ,,part ,,iv4 ,,fish ,,sauces #ha ,,introduction4 ,in spite of a considerable amount of trade grumbling1 the best part of the market is still held by ,english fish1 as a glance at any time over the names on the crates will show4 ,the foreign importations1 though large1 are not nearly so extensive as might be supposed4 ,as a rule the north ,british ports furnish the largest supply2 the southern ports suffer the most from foreign competition4 ,continental freightage also is light1 and as the foreigner rarely keeps very closely to the laws of fence months1 he gets fish into the market when no home-caught of the same kind is to be had4 ,if all people1 both rich and poor1 could be persuaded to eat fish more freely1 they would be benefited both in health and pocket4 ,if the demand were greater the supply would be more liberal1 more varied1 and also much cheaper4 ,at present1 although there is much complaining about catches falling off1 many grounds yielding but a poor harvest1 yet tons of fish are annually sent away from the markets for manure4 ,the trade is both risky and variable1 consequently prices have to be kept up that the dealer may realise some profit1 and for this state of things the modern housewife is largely accountable4 ,it is not wholly a question of price1 although there is still much to desire on this point4 ,ignorance1 especially with the working-man's wife1 will generally be found to be the cause of the aversion which many housewives have to the cooking of fish2 even in middle and upper class households much ignorance as to the kinds of fish and the best means of making use of them prevails4 ,the poorer classes still regard fish as nothing to make a meal of1 and1 sad to say1 a great many of the poor of our cities will not eat fish1 however cheaply they may get it4 ,they have many advantages of getting it which those who live in superior neighbourhoods have not4 ,often before the ,central ,market closes1 first-rate cod is to be had for twopence the pound--a seven-pound cod for a shilling4 ,plentiful and wholesome as cod is1 it is seldom much thought of by poor people4 ,salted1 sun-dried cod1 is thought beneath notice1 although large quantities are consumed on the continent1 and some very dainty dishes made therefrom4 ,plaice1 too1 generally to be had at fourpence the pound1 is but lightly esteemed4 ,humble ,londoners care most for smoked fish1 something that has a grip with it1 they say4 ,to meet this demand many adulterations are practised by the cockney curer4 ,haddocks are often but indifferent codling4 ,the ,finnan ,haddie was caught in the ,scheldt1 and ,stavanger herrings are passed off as ,yarmouth bloaters4 ,unwholesome common lobsters1 winkles1 and whelks1 are preferred to good substantial fish1 and1 as before stated1 ignorance of the proper methods of cooking is most frequently the reason of this4 ,where late dinners1 with people of small incomes1 are coming more into favour1 it is found an economy1 as it is also considered the correct thing1 to have a course of fish4 ,indeed1 as an economical article of diet1 fish has few rivals4 ,many people who really would enjoy eating it are debarred from doing so by its being invariably badly cooked1 or presented always in the same monotonous dress4 ,phosphorus being essential for brain food1 and as analysis has proved fish to contain a greater amount than almost any other article of diet1 it is the more valuable still on this account4 ,the fish which afford the most nourishment are the kinds which most resemble meat1 as salmon1 mackerel1 c42 turbot and halibut1 though strictly belonging to the lighter order1 are very nourishing on account of the amount of meat which they bear in proportion to bone4 ,the whiter kinds of fish are the most easily digestible1 as soles or cod1 whiting1 c41 and some kinds of river fish1 notably perch4 ,with the exception of trout--and perhaps pike--fresh-water fish are less esteemed than they deserve to be4 ,salmon is sometimes called a river fish1 though genuinely it is not so1 as1 although born in the river1 the sea is its home and natural sphere4 ,in ,parisian restaurants many dainty dishes are prepared from fish caught in the ,seine2 and in country places where sea-water fish is often difficult to obtain1 the ponds and rivers will often furnish excellent substitutes4 ,all fresh-water fish--with the exception of trout--is at its best in winter-time4 ,shell-fish1 perfectly harmless in themselves as they may be1 exemplify the saying that what is one man's meat is another man's poison2 accordingly1 where they are found to disagree they should be strictly avoided4 ,oysters1 the most highly esteemed of shell-fish1 are frequently ordered by the physician when it is desirable to unite great nourishment with easy digestion1 the amount of gluten they contain giving them this valuable quality4 ,lobsters are popularly considered to be the least harmful next to oysters1 and the flesh of a fresh crab is both delicate and delicious4 ,shrimps1 prawns1 and crayfish1 should properly rank as relishes2 they are extremely useful in savoury dishes1 either with or without other fish4 ,cockles are deservedly esteemed by the rich1 and they have often staved off the pressure of starvation from the poor of our coasts4 ,the limpet is a great favourite with the ,irish1 while the periwinkle is the poor man's luxury1 and the clam enjoys high favour in the ,united ,states4 ,,part ,i4 ,,choosing ,,and ,,buying ,,fish4 ,before coming to this important part of our subject1 we would like to offer a suggestion 7in all courtesy1 be it understood7 to our friends the fishmongers4 ,why do they1 we would ask1 invariably establish themselves on the sunny side of the road8 ,surely if any branch of trade requires coolness and shade it is the fish trade1 yet how rare an exception to find one so situated4 ,then we would respectfully draw their attention to their way of handling the fish4 ,often it receives most unmerciful treatment1 being knocked about on the marble slab with a force quite unnecessary4 ,all fish suffer more or less1 but delicate fish1 such as soles1 suffer in this way just as a ripe peach or pear does if subjected to the same treatment4 ,the same difference can be detected in the bruised part of fish as in a bruised peach4 ,also a too liberal pouring-on of water is injurious4 ,no doubt the bright and well-washed fish1 surrounded with lumps of ice1 look far more tempting than the boat-load all smeared with blood1 yet the fish would be much better if they did not see fresh water until they are to be dressed at home4 ,in this matter1 however1 the fishmonger is to a large extent ruled by popular opinion1 and if the latter forbids the purchase of fish in their more natural condition1 he is perhaps justified in endeavouring to suit the fancy of his customers4 ,in choosing fish care should be taken not to judge too much by first appearances1 although1 fortunately1 fish1 if not fresh1 soon tells its tale4 ,if the eyes are dull1 or the skin and the scales rub off easily1 avoid that fish4 ,if the skin is bright1 the flesh firm to the touch when pressed between the thumb and finger1 you may rely upon its being fresh2 stale fish1 or that which has been kept long in ice1 is always flabby4 ,one safe general direction for choosing fish may be given in few words1 viz41 choose the plump ones4 ,a short fish1 thick about the shoulders1 is much to be preferred to a long thin one4 ,thick soles1 or thick turbots1 are far preferable to thin ones4 ,the same with codfish4 ,lobsters and crabs should be chosen by weight1 and those of medium size are best in flavour4 ,there are one or two kinds of fish which are positively improved by being kept a day or two1 notably skate and red mullet4 ,mackerel1 on the contrary1 is a fish than which none spoils more rapidly4 ,the sole holds a first position among flat fish1 and is deservedly esteemed1 as its flesh is firm and delicate and very easily digested1 hence its great popularity with the sick4 ,it has also the advantage of being obtainable all the year round in good condition4 ,the skin of the back is sometimes dark1 sometimes white1 varying with the nature of the ground on which the fish feeds4 ,soles vary in size from quite little slips1 called tongues1 to large fish weighing eight or nine pounds per pair4 ,those in roe are rather insipid in flavour1 and are best for filleting4 ,they vary in price1 but are never a cheap fish4 ,halibut is an excellent substitute for turbot1 which it rather resembles in flavour1 and is a comparatively cheap fish4 ,it is abundant in spring and summertime1 and always a favourite with ,jewish people4 ,being a very large fish1 it is rarely sold entire4 ,the choice bits are the flackers over the fins and the pickings about the head4 ,a fillet or steak is the most profitable portion for general eating4 ,cod is at its best about ,christmas time4 ,from the end of ,january to ,march it is less good and not abundant2 in ,may again it is generally very fine4 ,the best are those which are plump and round at the tail1 the sides having a slightly ribbed appearance1 with yellow spots on a clear skin4 ,large cod are not generally cooked whole1 being so much thicker at the head than at the tail4 ,the head and shoulders1 usually sold apart1 form a handsome dish4 ,it is a very nourishing fish1 valuable in many ways1 and if its adaptabilities were more understood it would be more generally appreciated4 ,the salmon has been called the king of fresh-water fish1 yet1 as before remarked1 it does not belong to this category4 ,the river is its birthplace1 it is true1 but the sea is its pasture ground1 where it returns periodically to renew its strength4 ,it inhabits fresh and salt water alternately1 spending its summer in the river and its winter in the sea4 ,just as the swallow returns again to the same roof which sheltered it1 so the salmon returns again to the same river4 ,this fact has been taken advantage of to naturalise salmon in rivers where formerly there were no signs of them4 ,no stranger salmon cruising along the coast will mistake another river's mouth for the mouth of its own river4 ,the flesh is rich and delicious in flavour1 and to be eaten in perfection it should be dressed as soon as caught2 there will then be found between the flakes a creamy-white substance called curd1 which is highly esteemed by the epicure4 ,nevertheless1 it is then highly indigestible2 to be perfectly wholesome eating the salmon should be kept twenty-four hours1 then the curd solidifies1 and though perhaps less delicate in flavour1 it is richer and far less likely to disagree4 ,in season from ,february to ,august2 it is at its cheapest in ,july and ,august4 ,salmon trout1 though resembling salmon in flavour and appearance1 are really not at all the same species4 ,they rarely exceed two to three pounds in weight--generally they are but three-quarters of a pound4 ,they are justly regarded as a great delicacy1 and are at their best in spring and early summer4 ,the flesh is sometimes white1 sometimes red2 the latter is the most prized4 ,when choosing salmon trout examine the inside of the throat through the gills4 ,if this is very red the flesh will prove to be red1 though not so red as salmon4 ,there are two or three kinds of trout3 common1 sea1 and white trout4 ,sea trout reaches a good size1 white trout never does4 ,river trout are most delicious and highly esteemed2 the most delicate in flavour are those which weigh from three-quarters to one pound4 ,trout1 which is in season from ,may to ,september1 is in perfection in ,june4 ,carp and tench are pond rather than river fish1 and both have a great fondness for burying themselves in mud1 and owing to this the flesh has often a slight muddy taste2 for this reason the fish should lie in strong salt and water for a few hours1 then be well cleansed in clear spring water4 ,both are at their best in the winter months4 ,the tench1 though a smaller fish1 is richer and more delicate than the carp4 ,they are useful fish to families residing in the country4 ,although the pike attains to a considerable size in ,england1 it is small in comparison with its brethren found in ,russian and ,lapland waters4 ,indeed it more truly deserves to be called a ,russian fish1 so much more abundant and popular is it there4 ,in colour the skin is a pale olive-grey1 with several yellowish spots on the sides1 and the mouth is furnished with a prodigious number of teeth1 which has earned for it the name of fresh-water shark4 ,it was at one time a very popular article of food1 and is still considered a good fish for the table4 ,in some countries the fish is salted and dried1 and the roe made into caviare4 ,the perch1 which is one of the commonest of our fresh-water fish1 is also one of the best4 ,it is met with in almost all lakes and rivers in temperate regions4 ,when full-grown it is a large fish1 although one weighing a pound is thought a good size1 and one of three pounds very large4 ,the flesh is white1 firm1 of a good flavour1 and easily digested4 ,perch are so tenacious of life1 they may be carried fifty miles and yet survive the journey4 ,best used as soon as caught1 they are also better for being crimped as soon as they leave the water4 ,their season is from ,june to ,february4 ,perhaps the most commonly used fish is the herring4 ,shoals of herring visit the ,british ,islands from the end of ,may till ,october1 and even occasionally during the winter months4 ,in the beginning of the season the fish is rather oily1 and often found to be indigestible on that account1 but after the first few weeks this disappears1 and then it becomes both digestible and nourishing4 ,in choosing herrings take care that they feel firm1 and have bright eyes and scales4 ,sprats closely resemble herrings in appearance and flavour1 only they are but a third of the size of the latter4 ,they are very abundant on the ,north ,british coasts1 and in ,edinburgh and ,glasgow are sold by measure4 ,their best season is the winter time1 and their freshness may be judged by their silvery appearance--or otherwise4 ,the highly esteemed smelt is a most delicate fish4 ,when fresh it possesses an odour like a freshly-cut cucumber1 but this perfume passes away twelve hours after it has been caught4 ,the ,dutch fisheries furnish very fine smelts1 and the baskets full of bright silvery little bodies look very tempting in the wholesale market4 ,these are never what may be called cheap fish4 ,in season from ,november to ,may4 ,smelts which have been split and dried are called sparlings4 ,another fish which is cheap and plentiful in the winter months is the haddock4 ,they seldom weigh more than from three to four pounds1 and the largest are considered the best4 ,they should be gutted as soon as possible1 and hung up to dry with salt inside them4 ,scotch haddock have the highest reputation4 ,among lesser known fish are the gurnet1 dory1 and ling4 ,all of them are excellent eating4 ,the dory resembles the turbot in flavour1 and the gurnet has firm white flesh1 of agreeable taste4 ,in the early spring months ling is captured in large quantities off the ,orkney and ,shetland ,isles4 ,skate and plaice are both less thought of in ,england than they deserve to be2 in ,france they are better appreciated4 ,skate improves by being hung up for a day before using4 ,young skate are called maids1 and their flesh is tender and delicate4 ,plaice is in good condition when the body is thick and firm1 the eyes bright1 and the pale side tinged with pink4 ,hake1 or white salmon1 is a west-country fish1 common in ,devonshire4 ,in season in the autumn months4 ,eels and lampreys1 very rich1 and not over wholesome1 are mostly food for the epicure4 ,they are useful in cookery where a succulent dish is required4 ,the lamprey is but little met with in the present day4 ,,part ,,ii4 ,,the ,,cooking ,,of ,,fish4 ,the recipes given in this part have been gleaned from reliable sources4 ,many of them are from ,french cooks1 and are strictly in accordance with the methods in use in the best cuisines1 where the cooking of fish receives great care and attention4 ,for greater convenience in reference the recipes for preparing the different kinds of fish are all classed under the name of each kind1 and the names given in alphabetical order4 ,perhaps the only ways of properly cooking fish are baking and broiling1 yet these are precisely the ways least practised--out of ,france4 ,boiling and frying have hitherto held too great a monopoly in our methods4 ,in the following pages1 while giving the latter modes their due share of attention1 we beg to call for special notice to be given to the examples for broiling1 c41 as they may be relied upon to bring about a satisfactory result if carefully followed4 ,to begin with a few general directions3 ,in broiling a perfectly clear fire is absolutely indispensable2 more so in the case of fish than when intending to cook steak or chops4 ,a shovel-full of good cinders1 slightly wetted1 and given sufficient time to become red-hot1 will generally ensure a good surface heat1 but a charcoal braisire is par-excellence the fire for this purpose1 and no ,french housewife considers her kitchen complete without this little contrivance4 ,a little charcoal sprinkled over some hot coals is not a bad substitute for it4 ,a special gridiron should be kept for fish only4 ,after using1 let it be thoroughly washed and dried1 and before using again rub the bars over with a little oil2 fish is more easily marked1 and apt to stick sooner than meat4 ,if the gridiron is not a double one1 use a pair of sugar-tongs with which to turn the fish over2 beware of sticking a fork into it4 ,there can be no doubt that grilling brings out a flavour which nothing else will4 ,what can surpass a fresh mackerel1 grilled after being split open and boned8 ,an important point to bear in mind in this method of cookery is1 to keep in the flavour4 ,a slice of grilled salmon will taste far nicer if the slice has been wrapped in buttered paper2 but cooking anything in paper requires the greatest care1 as should there be the least flare the paper will catch fire1--what is required is a fierce heat4 ,when baking fish en papillot1 that is wrapped in buttered paper1 the chief thing to bear in mind is not to spare the butter4 ,this1 one of the most delicate and delicious ways of cooking fish1 is apt to be entirely spoilt1 because only a little dab of butter is allowed4 ,when fish has been cooked in paper it should be sent to table just as it is1 paper and all4 ,always use plain white note paper1 never printed4 ,in boiling fish a very common fault is omitting to put sufficient salt into the water4 ,in the case of large fish1 salt should be added in the proportion of half a pound to a gallon of water2 for smaller fish1 a proportion of a quarter-pound to the gallon is sufficient4 ,it is now generally thought best to place fish in nearly boiling water1 then allow it to come gently to the boiling point again1 this keeps in the flavour on the same principle as the boiling of meat4 ,the time allowed depends entirely on the size of the fish1 but when the flesh shows signs of being just able to be separated from the bone1 it is amply done4 ,experience is the only safe guide4 ,to preserve the whiteness of white fish1 it is wise to rub them over with lemon-juice before boiling4 ,one method of boiling fish1 when it is intended for eating cold1 which is much approved of on the ,continent1 is to do it in court-bouillon1 and if fresh-water fish be cooked this way it is relieved of much of its insipidity4 ,one part of vinegar1 one part of red wine1 to four parts of water1 for the bouillon4 ,to two quarts of the liquor put an ounce of salt1 half an ounce of pepper1 a bunch of savoury herbs1 a sliced onion and a carrot4 ,sometimes a small piece of salt bacon is also added4 ,let these all boil together for some time1 then strain the liquor and keep in a stone jar4 ,it will keep a long time if occasionally re-boiled4 ,the fish should be well covered with the liquid when laid in the fish-kettle1 and allowed to boil gradually4 ,to fry fish successfully it should be literally boiled in fat4 ,this cannot be done over a slow or smoky fire1 neither can it be done unless an abundance of fat be allowed4 ,it is not an extravagant method1 even if the pan be a large one1 and it takes two or three pounds to fill it4 ,if carefully poured into a basin containing boiling water after the fish has been cooked1 the loose breadcrumbs and other particles will fall to the bottom1 and the fat form a clear white crust4 ,when due care is exercised there is no reason why the same fat should not be used fifty times over4 ,let it be quite boiling when the fish is put in4 ,this may be known by its perfect stillness and the faint blue vapour which will rise from it4 ,when the fish has been washed and carefully dried1 flour it before dipping into beaten egg1 and use brown raspings in preference to breadcrumbs4 ,lay a small piece of blotting-paper at the bottom of the dish to absorb all grease4 ,various recipes for baking fish are given in the following pages4 ,perhaps one of the nicest ways of doing fish in the oven is au gratin4 ,briefly described1 this consists of a layer of mixed herbs and breadcrumbs laid first at the bottom of a well-buttered dish1 the fish laid on this1 then the same ingredients with seasoning and more butter over it4 ,very often a glass of wine or vinegar is added4 ,anything cooked au gratin must always come to table in the dish in which it was cooked1 hence the gratin-dish1 sometimes of silver1 sometimes of polished tin or fire-proof china1 is another kitchen requisite almost indispensable4 ,when intending to use salted fish for any dish it should always be allowed to lie in water at least twenty-four hours previously1 and the water should be changed frequently2 then drain and dry thoroughly4 ,,part ,,iii4 ,,tested ,,recipes4 ,anchovies are the only fish which come under this letter4 ,they are usually bought in pickle from grocers and oilmen1 and ought to soak in cold water before they are used4 ,the small1 plump ones are the best--the pickle is red1 the scales of the fish white4 ,if cut into fillets and added to sliced cucumber1 hard-boiled egg1 also sliced1 minced parsley and herbs1 and dressed with the usual salad dressing1 they form an acceptable variety in the salad series4 ,anchovies1 ,essence of 7home-made71 is made by beating to a paste half-a-pound of anchovies1 bones also1 then adding a pint of raisin wine to the paste and boiling both together until it is dissolved4 ,for seasoning add a very small quantity of cayenne pepper1 two or three ,jamaica peppercorns and three or four shallots4 ,home-made essence is greatly superior in flavour to that which can be bought4 ,anchovy ,butter is prepared by pounding to a paste half-a-pound of anchovies with half that weight of butter4 ,a pinch of cayenne is an improvement4 ,this butter is especially useful for flavouring sauces for meat and fish1 and if kept in very small pots1 closely covered1 it will remain good for some time4 ,anchovy ,paste1 so much liked for sandwiches1 is made in the same way4 ,anchovy ,sauce4--,two ounces of butter melted1 two tablespoonfuls of flour mixed smoothly with it1 a tumblerful of boiling water4 ,when this has boiled stir in gradually three teaspoonfuls of the essence of anchovies1 and add the juice of half a lemon2 let all boil once more1 then pour into a tureen4 ,barbel4--,this is but a poor fish1 being woolly and rather flavourless4 ,it may be made palatable by cutting in pieces1 then steeping in a marinade of oil1 pepper and salt1 for half an hour1 after which broil the pieces over the fire1 and serve with matre d'htel butter4 ,bloaters4--,the smoked bloaters should be scalded with boiling water1 then dried4 ,the bones can often be drawn off after this1 before cooking4 ,they may either be broiled over the fire for a moment1 or cooked in the oven with a morsel of butter4 ,before broiling fresh bloaters split them open down the middle1 remove the backbone and cleanse them4 ,sprinkle with pepper and salt1 and drop a morsel of butter on each before bringing to table4 ,bream is a handsome1 although not a delicate fish4 ,it must be thoroughly cleansed and washed out with vinegar4 ,split it open and remove the bone1 but do not scale it4 ,it is best broiled1 but is excellent if stuffed with a little forcemeat1 then baked in the oven for twenty minutes4 ,melted butter1 caper sauce1 or anchovy sauce1 must accompany it to table4 ,brill4--,this fish has an excellent reputation1 resembling turbot so nearly2 it may be cooked in almost every way recommended for the latter4 ,thick brill are the best1 and a yellowish hue in the flesh denotes its freshness4 ,lay it in salted water for a few minutes1 then dry it and rub with the juice of a lemon4 ,when boiling brill allow plenty of salt in the water1 and half a teacupful of lemon juice4 ,let it simmer gently after reaching boiling point till just tender through4 ,lay on a clean serviette1 the white side uppermost1 garnish with cut lemon and parsley1 also a sprinkling of lobster coral4 ,carp1 ,baked4--,after washing and scaling1 remove the inside of the carp1 squeeze over it the juice of one or two lemons and let it lie thus for an hour4 ,next place it in a baking tin1 sprinkle some minced parsley and shallots over it1 also pepper and salt1 then pour a little oiled butter over all4 ,cover with white paper and bake for upwards of forty minutes--gently4 ,make a little thick melted butter1 enrich it further with a spoonful of cream1 stir in the juice of half a lemon1 and more salt and pepper--cayenne if liked4 ,lift the carp on to a dish1 pour this sauce over it1 garnish with chopped gherkins and lobster coral4 ,carp1 ,fried4--,cut the fish into fillets after having thoroughly cleansed it4 ,roll each fillet in flour seasoned with salt and cayenne4 ,fry in a depth of boiling fat1 serve with anchovy sauce4 ,carp1 ,grilled4--,only very small carp can be cooked this way1 and they should be wrapped in buttered papers1 after having been washed and emptied4 ,serve with a piquant sauce of minced herbs1 lemon-juice and butter4 ,carp1 ,stewed4--,carp are excellent treated this way if rather large4 ,after washing in vinegar and water1 cut the fish into fair-sized pieces1 roll each piece in seasoned flour1 then lay in a covered stewpan1 and pour a tumblerful of white wine over them4 ,allow nearly an hour for the cooking1 then when done remove the pieces of fish carefully on to a dish1 stir in a tablespoonful of grated horseradish1 a little cream1 and the beaten yolk of an egg into the sauce1 and pour it over the carp4 ,if boiled in court-bouillon1 carp is equally good for eating cold4 ,caveach ,fish4--,clean some large fish1 such as cod or salmon1 then cut them into slices4 ,rub each slice with salt1 pepper and spice1 and fry in boiling fat till lightly browned4 ,let them drain and get quite cold1 then lay in deep jars4 ,boil some vinegar with a few shallots1 peppercorns1 a bay leaf and blade of mace2 when this is cold fill the jars nearly full with this1 pour a little salad oil on the top and cover closely4 ,they will keep for months1 and when required the slices are lifted out1 placed in the centre of a dish with dressed salad round them4 ,clams4--,clams1 which are a species of cockle1 were declared by the great ,soyer to be superior to the oyster in flavour4 ,they are very nice if fried1 after dipping into beaten egg and breadcrumbs4 ,in ,america they are stewed4 ,put into a stewpan with a little water1 they are boiled for a few minutes1 then seasoned with pepper and salt4 ,cockles4--,cockles should be roasted on a tin laid on the top of a stove2 they are eaten whilst hot with bread and butter4 ,they require to be well washed1 and the shells scrubbed with a brush4 ,cod1 ,baked4--,take a piece weighing about three pounds out of the middle of a large fish4 ,make a simple forcemeat of breadcrumbs1 minced parsley1 thyme1 seasoning1 and the yolk of an egg2 put this inside the fish and sew it up4 ,place in a baking-dish1 and surround with a carrot sliced1 and also a turnip and small onion4 ,pour a spoonful of vinegar over1 and place two or three lumps of butter on the top2 bake for twenty minutes4 ,remove the vegetables1 but serve the liquor with the fish instead of sauce4 ,cod1 ,fried la ,matre d',htel4--,take two or three slices of cod about an inch and a half in thickness1 let them lie in salt water for half an hour1 then drain and dry them4 ,cover with seasoned flour1 and fry in a quantity of boiling fat for a few minutes4 ,pile in pyramid form on a hot dish1 pouring the following sauce round them3 two tablespoonsful of fresh green parsley chopped small1 two ounces of butter1 half an ounce of flour1 a little salt1 pepper1 and a spoonful of vinegar2 add a little water if it thickens too much4 ,mix the ingredients well1 let them boil up once1 then serve4 ,cod1 la ,crme4--,the remains of boiled cod will do excellently well for this1 or if fresh fish is used it must be first boiled till tender1 then broken into flakes1 all skin and bone removed4 ,into a saucepan put a pint of milk with a teaspoonful of salt and the rind of a lemon4 ,let this boil once1 then pour off into a basin4 ,in the saucepan melt an ounce of butter and stir in smoothly an ounce of flour1 add a pinch of cayenne pepper1 then the milk1 and boil all together until thick4 ,put in the flakes of cod to heat through1 then pour all on to a hot dish1 garnish with tufts of parsley1 and pass round strips of toasted bread to eat with it4 ,cod1 ,curried4--,take the remains of cold boiled cod broken into flakes1 fry them a moment in butter4 ,lay them aside on a hot plate and prepare the curry4 ,for this put an ounce of butter into a saucepan and slice into it two shallots and one small apple4 ,when these have frizzled brown stir in a tablespoonful of flour1 half a teaspoonful of curry powder1 the same of salt1 and a pinch of cayenne pepper1 and lastly a teacupful of stock4 ,let this boil a few minutes1 then put in the cod to warm up1 and serve quickly4 ,a wall of boiled rice round the edge of the dish is an improvement4 ,cod1 ,salted1 with ,parsnips4--,take a couple of pounds of salted cod1 let it soak for twenty-four hours1 then drain1 and pouring fresh cold water over it let it heat through gradually4 ,it should simmer until tender1 but must not boil1 or it will become hard4 ,drain again1 lay on a hot dish1 garnish with boiled parsnips cut into lengths1 and cover all with egg sauce1 made as follows3 half a pint of milk thickened with flour1 a small bit of butter1 salt1 pepper1 the juice of a lemon1 and two hard-boiled eggs chopped small and stirred in4 ,garnish the dish with parsley4 ,cod1 ,salted1 en ,mousse4--,soak and cook the cod as in the previous recipe1 then drain and break into flakes4 ,frizzle a slice of a ,spanish onion in a small quantity of butter1 but do not brown it4 ,scald the soft part of a slice of white bread1 break it with a fork1 then add to the onion1 and at the same time add gradually a cupful of new milk4 ,continue to beat until all is quite smooth1 sprinkle with salt and pepper1 then add the flakes of cod1 still continuing to beat4 ,if becoming too stiff add more milk4 ,when all is light and like a froth1 pour on to a dish and dot small bits of fried or toasted crusts about the surface4 ,cod1 ,head and ,shoulders ,boiled4--,a portion or the whole of a large fish1 when intended for boiling1 should be previously crimped1 when it should receive some deep cuts as far as the bone on both sides4 ,afterwards it should lie in vinegar and water for half an hour4 ,it should be plunged at once into boiling water1 then allowed to simmer till just tender4 ,drain1 and serve on a white d'oyley1 garnished with lemon and parsley4 ,crimping renders the flesh firmer1 and makes it easier both to cook and to serve4 ,crab4--,the crabs which have a rough shell and claws are the best4 ,when choosing one shake it well2 if it rattle it is sure to prove watery4 ,the shell should be of a bright red1 and the eyes look clear4 ,in picking out the meat from the shell and claws leave out the part near the head1 which is not fit to be eaten4 ,crab1 ,hot ,buttered4--,pick the meat from the shell of a crab1 mix with half its quantity of breadcrumbs1 a little pepper1 salt1 grated nutmeg1 a spoonful of salad oil and the same of vinegar4 ,clean the empty shell1 then refill it with this mixture1 sprinkle more crumbs over the top1 then a nob of butter1 and bake for nearly ten minutes4 ,to eat with hot dry toast4 ,crab1 ,salad4--,pick the meat from the shell into flakes1 make a pile in the centre of a dish1 leaving the claws on the top2 surround with shred lettuce and watercress1 and pour a simple salad dressing over all4 ,crab ,soup1 or ,potage ,bisque4--,this is most delicious and delicate4 ,choose a nice heavy crab1 pick out the meat from the claws into shreds4 ,the soft meat from the inside of the body is pounded in a mortar with half its quantity of boiled rice2 this is thinned a little with some clear stock1 then passed through a colander4 ,put this into a stewpan with sufficient stock to make the required quantity 7veal stock is preferable71 add a cupful of thickened cream1 salt to taste1 and a little cayenne pepper1 let it boil once only1 then take from the fire and add the shredded meat from the claws4 ,a little lobster butter stirred in will make it a richer colour4 ,make potage from lobster or crayfish in exactly the same manner4 ,the result will be almost as satisfactory4 ,crayfish4--,crayfish resemble lobsters in flavour1 but they are smaller1 and the flesh is more delicate4 ,those which are red under the claws are the best4 ,wash them well1 and boil in salt water for ten minutes1 after which they will become a bright red4 ,drain well1 then pile in pyramid form1 and garnish with parsley4 ,a pretty dish may be made from them by preparing a clear savoury jelly1 and arranging the crayfish in a fancy mould--minus the tails--filling in all spaces with the jelly4 ,crayfish1 as a ,breakfast ,relish4--,remove the tails from a pint of crayfish1 put the bodies to simmer gently in a saucepan with an ounce of butter1 a teacupful of water1 a spoonful of vinegar1 grate of nutmeg1 and a little salt and pepper4 ,simmer for ten minutes1 thicken with flour1 and pour over a slice of toast4 ,crayfish may also be potted like shrimps4 ,dabs4--,these insignificant little fish are caught in the mouths of rivers near the sea4 ,they are nice if fried1 but more tasty if wrapped in buttered paper and baked for fifteen minutes4 ,send to table with sliced lemon4 ,dace4--,this fish scarcely repays the trouble of cooking1 and is usually only enjoyed by the angler who has caught it4 ,it may be either fried or boiled4 ,a little sharp sauce with lemon juice and mustard are almost necessary accompaniments4 ,dory4--,although by no means a handsome fish1 yet the dory has a flavour which makes it excellent eating4 ,it is best boiled1 or rather simmered1 after it has boiled once1 twenty minutes for a fair-sized fish4 ,serve on a napkin1 garnished with parsley4 ,anchovy1 shrimp1 or caper sauce1 are all suitable for serving with boiled dory4 ,eels1 en ,matelote4--,skin and clean about two pounds of eels1 divide into pieces of two inches long1 let them lie in salt water while some onions are being fried in butter4 ,when the onions have browned1 stir in flour to absorb all the butter1 then a cupful of stock and the same of red wine1 a few mushrooms1 pepper and salt1 and a pinch of herbs4 ,stew the eels in this gravy until thoroughly tender1 about forty minutes4 ,serve altogether4 ,eels1 ,boiled1 for ,invalids4--,when the skin has been drawn off the eel1 and it has lain in salt water to cleanse it1 it should be placed before a clear fire for ten minutes to draw out the oil4 ,wash again in warm water1 and set to boil in a saucepan with a bunch of parsley and spoonful of salt4 ,when tender take it out1 divide into lengths1 thicken a small quantity of the broth1 add cream and chopped parsley1 and pour over the eel4 ,findon1 or ,finnan1 ,haddocks4--,the ,findon haddock1 so highly esteemed for its delicate flavour1 may be distinguished by its odour and creamy yellow colour4 ,the skin should be stripped off1 and the fish broiled quickly over a clear fire4 ,rub butter over it before bringing to table4 ,flounders4--,flounders may be boiled1 baked1 fried1 or stewed4 ,as they are apt to have a slight muddy flavour1 they should lie in salt water for a while4 ,perhaps the nicest way of cooking them is to dip them into beaten egg1 cover with raspings1 and boil them in fat4 ,flounders may also be done au gratin1 by laying the fish 7neatly trimmed7 on a bed of chopped shallots and parsley1 breadcrumbs and butter1 covering them with the same1 then adding a glass of white wine1 and baking for twenty minutes4 ,allow at least one for each person4 ,gurnet4--,the head of the gurnet is large in comparison with the rest of the body4 ,it is apt to be a dirty fish1 and needs very thorough cleansing4 ,the gills should be cut off4 ,perhaps the best way of cooking it is to remove the head and the inside1 stuff it with a forcemeat1 sew the body up and lay it in a deep tin1 covering with a slice or two of salt fat4 ,bake for half an hour1 then remove on to a hot dish1 and pour matre d'htel butter over it4 ,haddock1 ,broiled4--,draw and clean the haddock very thoroughly1 wiping it perfectly dry4 ,dredge with flour1 then pour a little salad oil over it4 ,lay on the gridiron and broil quickly4 ,when brown and crisp it is done4 ,serve with anchovy sauce4 ,haddock1 ,baked4--,empty and wash the fish1 scaling it carefully2 let it lie in vinegar for fifteen minutes1 then dry it1 dredge with flour1 cover with beaten egg1 then with breadcrumbs1 and lay in a greased baking-dish4 ,pour melted butter over it1 and bake about twenty minutes4 ,the gravy which comes from the fish may be seasoned and sent to table with it4 ,garnish with cut lemons4 ,haddock1 ,curried4--,choose small haddocks for this purpose4 ,split them open1 remove bones and the head1 divide into convenient-sized pieces4 ,dip each piece into seasoned flour and fry till crisp and brown4 ,prepare a curry sauce by frizzling a small onion and an apple in butter1 thickening with flour1 adding seasoning and a little curry powder and clear stock to make the requisite quantity4 ,put the fish into this sauce to heat through1 then pile in the centre of a dish and pour the sauce over4 ,garnish with rice4 ,halibut4--,being very large fish1 perhaps the most satisfactory way of dealing with halibut is to cut them into steaks1 viz41 slices across the fish of any thickness desired4 ,they may be either broiled or fried4 ,when broiling1 sprinkle them with seasoning1 and let them lie in salad oil for a few minutes1 then drain and broil quickly over a bright fire4 ,lay on a hot dish1 squeeze lemon juice over1 and sprinkle with chopped parsley4 ,for frying1 the steaks may be either dredged with flour1 or dipped in egg and breadcrumbs1 then fried in a shallow depth of fat till lightly brown4 ,drain on blotting paper1 and send shrimp or anchovy sauce to table with them4 ,boiling is the least satisfactory way of cooking halibut1 but if it be chosen1 have the fish in one thick piece4 ,put into boiling water1 and simmer gently until the fish shows signs of parting from the bone4 ,halibut ,pie4--,take a piece of the middle of the fish1 remove all skin1 and cut into pieces an inch square4 ,roll each piece in a mixture of salt1 pepper1 and breadcrumbs1 place in a pie-dish with lumps of butter at the top4 ,pour a glass of white wine over4 ,cover with a short crust1 and when this has baked until well brown1 the fish also will be done4 ,herrings1 ,boiled4--,few fish are more delicious than fresh herrings boiled4 ,wash1 scale1 and empty them very particularly4 ,souse them with vinegar1 then drop into boiling salted water1 simmer for about ten minutes1 and lift them out the moment they are done4 ,drain them1 arrange nicely on a clean napkin1 garnish with parsley and horseradish1 and serve parsley sauce with them4 ,herrings1 ,broiled4--,let them lie in salt overnight1 wash them1 empty1 and split them open4 ,dry thoroughly1 and dredge a little flour over them4 ,lay on an oiled gridiron1 broil on both sides4 ,lay each one separately on a hot plate1 and place a morsel of butter on the top4 ,then pour the following sauce over them3 a tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 the same of minced herbs1 and a suspicion of onion1 same of butter1 a teaspoonful of salt and pepper mixed1 a wineglassful of vinegar2 boil altogether for a moment4 ,herrings1 ,pickled 7to eat cold74--,scale and clean the herrings carefully1 split them open and take out the backbone4 ,sprinkle with salt and pepper after laying in a deep dish4 ,cover with vinegar and water4 ,bake till tender through4 ,herrings1 ,pickled 7,french mode74--,scale and clean the herrings1 empty without splitting them4 ,cut off the heads1 and put the fish into an earthern jar1 strew salt liberally over them2 let them lie twenty-four hours4 ,drain them and place them in an enamelled saucepan with a dozen peppercorns1 a bay-leaf or two1 and an onion with a clove4 ,cover with cold vinegar4 ,let them come to boiling point1 and boil two minutes only4 ,stand aside until quite cold1 when they may be placed in a covered jar4 ,they will keep good for some time4 ,lampreys1 ,stewed4--,rub the lamprey well with salt1 and wash it in water 7warm7 to get rid of the slime4 ,cut off the head1 tail1 and gills1 empty it1 then cut into pieces three inches long4 ,slice three or four onions into the bottom of a stewpan1 dip each piece of lamprey into flour1 and lay over the onions4 ,add next a dozen mushrooms1 a tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 grated lemon-rind and a little juice1 pepper1 and salt4 ,a glassful of red wine and sufficient stock to cover the whole1 replace the lid1 and stew gently for two hours4 ,serve altogether4 ,ling1 ,baked4--,cleanse and empty the fish1 cut it into thick slices1 removing the head and tail4 ,dredge the slices with flour1 and sprinkle with salt and pepper4 ,lay them in a baking-dish1 and pour some melted butter over them4 ,bake for twenty minutes1 place the slices of fish on a hot dish1 then add a cupful of cream and a small tinful of button mushrooms to the butter1 make thoroughly hot and pour over the fish just before bringing to table4 ,or1 the slices of ling may be dipped into beaten egg1 covered with raspings1 and fried in hot fat1 a sauce rmoulade being brought to table with them4 ,lobster1 la ,crme4--,pick the meat from a fresh lobster without breaking the shell2 cut it into dice4 ,put into an enamelled saucepan with a mixed teaspoonful of salt1 pepper1 and nutmeg1 a glassful of white wine1 a tablespoonful of vinegar1 and an ounce of butter rolled in flour4 ,simmer gently for ten minutes1 stirring all the time4 ,then stir in two tablespoonfuls of thickened cream4 ,pour the mixture into the shell of the lobster1 cover the top with breadcrumbs1 brown quickly in the oven1 then set the shell on a folded napkin1 and garnish with parsley4 ,lobster ,cutlets4--,a large lobster is required for these4 ,boil for five minutes1 then crack the shell and take out the meat as whole as possible4 ,cut this across in slices a quarter of an inch in thickness4 ,dip each slice into beaten egg and breadcrumbs1 sprinkle with salt and pepper1 and fry in fat for about five minutes4 ,make a small mound of whipped potato for the centre of a dish1 arrange the cutlets round this1 and send oyster sauce to table with them4 ,lobster ,patties4--,boil a lobster for fifteen minutes4 ,crack it open and pick the meat out into flakes4 ,put the flakes into an enamelled saucepan with an ounce of butter1 a tablespoonful of cream1 same of white stock1 and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies1 a little seasoning also1 and a few dry breadcrumbs4 ,boil up for a moment4 ,line some patty-pans with good puff paste not rolled too thinly1 place a morsel of crumb of bread in the middle before putting on the top crust2 bake the patties a bright brown1 lift off the top crust1 take out the bread1 fill with the hot mixture1 and replace the cover4 ,serve very hot4 ,lobster ,salad4--,for this the lobster is required very sweet and fresh2 it should have been boiled about twenty minutes and then have become quite cold4 ,crack the shell and remove the meat as whole as possible1 saving the coral for garnishing4 ,divide the meat into small neat pieces1 seasoning each with salt1 pepper1 and vinegar4 ,take two lettuces with firm1 white hearts1 wipe them clean with a cloth4 ,they must be crisp and perfectly dry4 ,place first a layer of shred lettuce at the bottom of a bowl1 then a layer of seasoned lobster2 alternate till the stock is exhausted4 ,pour the following dressing over all at the last moment1 and sprinkle the coral over the surface4 ,a fanciful outer edge may be made of sliced eggs and beetroot1 or nasturtium flowers1 radishes set in parsley1 c4 ,dressing4--,the yolks of two eggs beaten until thick1 a saltspoonful of salt1 half of pepper1 same of made mustard4 ,beat in slowly half a pint of oil and two spoonsful of vinegar4 ,lobster ,butter1 and ,sauce4--,the spawn and coral of a freshly-boiled hen lobster1 pounded together in a mortar with twice their quantity of fresh butter and a spice of cayenne pepper1 makes lobster butter4 ,it should be of a bright red colour4 ,keep in small pots well covered1 and in a cool place4 ,for the sauce1 make some good plain melted butter1 pick out a few flakes of the white meat of a lobster1 then stir in a spoonful of the lobster butter4 ,do not boil it after this1 or the colour will be spoilt4 ,the juice of a lemon may be added if liked4 ,mackerel1 ,broiled4--,for a perfectly fresh1 small1 plump mackerel1 this is the mode of cooking par excellence4 ,cleanse the fish thoroughly1 and dry them first with a cloth1 then by hanging up in the open air4 ,split them open flat and carefully remove the backbone4 ,smear them with salad oil1 sprinkle them with salt and pepper1 wrap each one in a fold of buttered note-paper1 and lay on the gridiron4 ,broil carefully over a clear red fire for twenty minutes1 turning occasionally4 ,they may be broiled without the paper1 in which case fifteen minutes will be more than long enough1 but will taste less delicate and be less easily digested4 ,lay on a hot dish1 cover closely1 and serve with or without matre d'htel butter4 ,mackerel1 ,baked4--,large mackerel are preferable for this mode4 ,after cleaning and taking out the roes1 fill with the following forcemeat3--,three ounces of breadcrumbs1 an ounce of finely-shred beef suet1 the same of chopped parsley1 a pinch of savoury herbs1 minced chives1 and pepper and salt4 ,bind the mixture with a beaten egg4 ,when the fish has been filled1 sew the sides together with strong thread1 lay it on a baking dish1 dredge a little flour over it1 and pour over either some melted butter or clarified fat4 ,bake twenty minutes4 ,serve with the same butter to the which some chopped parsley has been added1 or with a sauce piquante4 ,mackerel1 ,boiled4--,wash and empty them without splitting them more than can be helped4 ,lay them in hot water with plenty of salt4 ,let the water come to a boil1 then draw aside and simmer them till the skin shows signs of breaking4 ,drain1 and serve on a clean serviette4 ,garnish with parsley4 ,serve either parsley or fennel sauce with them4 ,mullet1 ,red4--,these fish are much the best if cooked in buttered paper4 ,they may be roast1 baked1 or boiled--all ways are excellent if the precaution of wrapping up be observed4 ,a liberal share of butter should be enclosed with them4 ,the gills and fins only are removed2 the inside remains untouched1 as the liver is much esteemed4 ,cook them about twenty-five minutes1 take out of the papers1 and serve with plenty of sauce in a tureen4 ,add the liquor which has oozed from the fish to some plain melted butter1 with a spoonful of anchovy sauce1 a squeeze of lemon juice1 and a glassful of some good red wine4 ,mullet1 ,red 7,broiled la matre d'htel74--,clean the mullet and empty them1 score them across in several places1 lay them to soak in a marinade of salad oil and minced sweet herbs--garlic also if the taste is liked4 ,let them lie in this for half an hour4 ,drain them1 sprinkle with salt and pepper1 lay on a gridiron1 and broil over a clear fire1 turning on both sides4 ,mullet1 ,grey4--,the grey mullet is but seldom offered for sale4 ,it is generally thought much inferior to the red1 and is only seasonable during the heat of summer4 ,it may be cooked in any of the ways given for mackerel or for red mullet4 ,oysters4--,oysters are never so excellent or so easy of digestion as when they are eaten straight out of the newly-opened shell4 ,if carefully opened1 and none of the juice be spilt1 they will need no seasoning2 but if it be preferred1 salt and pepper may be sprinkled over them1 also a squeeze of lemon juice4 ,brown bread and butter is the usual accompaniment to them4 ,oysters1 ,browned in their own gravy4--,this is a very dainty dish4 ,take a dozen or more large oysters1 open them carefully1 and pour the juice from each one into a cup4 ,take off the beards1 dip each oyster into beaten egg thickened with flour4 ,brown them in a little butter1 lift them out1 add the gravy from the cup to the butter1 thicken with flour1 and season with pepper and salt4 ,let it simmer for two or three minutes1 then stir in the browned oysters2 let them heat through again1 then pour over a slice of toast4 ,oysters1 au ,gratin4--,butter a bright tin or silver gratin-dish4 ,stir into a few ounces of breadcrumbs a spoonful of chopped parsley and sweet herbs with seasoning4 ,sprinkle these thickly over the butter1 and moisten with white wine4 ,then split open two dozen large oysters1 take off the beards1 and lay each oyster on the bed in the dish1 pouring the juice over as well4 ,cover them with a few more crumbs1 place three or four nobs of butter on the top1 and bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes4 ,bring to table in the dish4 ,perch4--,the best way of dressing perch is in water souchy4 ,remember always to clean the perch first with a little warm water to take off the slime1 then lay them in cold salt water for an hour or so4 ,pick out the smallest of the fish for the souchy1 empty them1 cut into pieces1 boil them slowly with some parsley-root1 peppercorns1 and salt4 ,strain the broth 7for the ingredients should boil until a strong broth is obtained7 through a muslin4 ,the large perch should be crimped1 after being cleaned1 then placed in the broth and simmered until just tender4 ,drain them1 serve in a deep dish with a ladleful of the broth poured over them1 and garnished with green parsley4 ,a little fresh parsley1 chopped1 may be introduced into the broth if liked4 ,perch may also be laid in a marinade 7after being cleansed7 then broiled over the fire4 ,it is well if1 after lifting them out of the marinade1 they are liberally besprinkled with seasoned breadcrumbs and herbs4 ,broil till lightly browned1 lay on a hot dish1 a nob of butter on each1 and garnish4 ,serve a little sharp sauce with them4 ,if economy is not to be studied1 they are very nice if stewed in wine--sherry1 or equal parts of sherry and clear stock4 ,lay the perch in a deep dish1 and just cover them with the above4 ,slice an onion very thinly1 lay over them with a few sprigs of parsley1 thyme1 a bay-leaf1 and some peppercorns1 sprinkle liberally with salt1 and let them simmer gently for about twenty minutes4 ,make a sauce from the liquor by thickening it with butter rolled in flour1 and serve poured over the fish4 ,pike1 ,baked4--,pike must be scaled after washing them4 ,to scale it easily1 first pour boiling water over the fish1 then plunge immediately into cold water1 and scrape briskly with the back of a knife4 ,wipe the fish dry1 then empty it1 and fill the cavity with a nicely seasoned forcemeat1 sew up the sides1 and lay in a baking dish4 ,lay several large lumps of butter about it1 and pour over a glassful of white wine or clear broth4 ,bake it in a moderate oven for half an hour--a large fish will take even longer4 ,it should be basted frequently1 being a dry fish4 ,good beef dripping will answer as well as butter4 ,when done1 lift the fish carefully on to a hot dish1 and thicken the gravy with flour2 add a spoonful of anchovy sauce1 the same of mushroom ketchup1 cayenne pepper1 and salt4 ,let them boil up again1 then stir in a spoonful of capers1 and pour the sauce into a tureen4 ,the fish may be garnished with horseradish1 fresh parsley1 or small ripe tomatoes1 if available4 ,pike may be boiled1 letting it lie in vinegar some time previously1 and placing it in very hot water or stock1 with an onion and bunch of sweet herbs4 ,bring to a boil1 and then simmer until tender4 ,serve it on a clean napkin with cut lemons and parsley2 send a sharp sauce to table with it4 ,the remains of cold boiled pike1 or slices cut from a fresh fish1 may be dipped into egg and breadcrumbs and fried in fat4 ,they will be found very good1 especially if accompanied by a dish of green vegetable1 as spinach1 or a fresh salad4 ,plaice4--,perhaps the very nicest way of dressing plaice is to cut the fish into fillets1 then to dip these into beaten egg and raspings1 and fry them4 ,place each fillet on a round of fried bread1 and put a tiny pat of anchovy butter on the top of each1 giving a sprinkle of pepper and salt as well1 and thus they will be found to be very appetising4 ,plaice1 au ,gratin4--,steep the fish in salt water for an hour or two1 cleanse and empty it1 leaving the head untouched4 ,dry it thoroughly1 and take a dish that will just hold it4 ,first melt a little beef dripping in that1 then put a layer of crumbs1 a tablespoonful of finely-minced suet1 parsley1 shallots1 and seasoning4 ,on this lay the plaice1 white side uppermost1 cover with the same order1 and squeeze the juice of a lemon over the top4 ,set in the oven1 which should be hot enough to brown the surface quickly4 ,twenty minutes is ample for a good-sized fish4 ,serve in the same dish4 ,plaice1 ,boiled4--,large plaice should be chosen for boiling4 ,cut a slit from the head downwards through the middle of the back1 to prevent the white side breaking4 ,lay it in the fish-kettle with sufficient cold water to cover it1 and a teacupful of vinegar4 ,let it come quickly to boiling point1 then simmer for about five minutes longer4 ,serve with shrimp or caper sauce4 ,prawns4--,prawns much resemble shrimps1 but are larger in size and more delicate in flavour4 ,when fresh they are of a bright red colour1 and very firm4 ,prawn ,soup4--,mince together till quite fine1 a carrot1 onion1 stick of celery1 and small turnip4 ,melt a little butter in a stewpan1 put in the vegetables and let them simmer for a quarter of an hour1 stirring well about4 ,heat a quart of clear stock1 take a thick slice of white bread and cut it into dice1 leaving out the crust1 let it boil in the liquor1 then add the vegetables with the butter1 and a tablespoonful of salt4 ,boil all together4 ,take fifty prawns1 pick out the tails1 and stew the bodies in a glass of wine1 press them through a colander and mix with the soup4 ,add then a pinch of cayenne pepper1 a teaspoonful of anchovy butter1 and a dessert-spoonful of lemon juice4 ,allow all to boil five minutes longer1 and pour over fried croutons into a tureen4 ,ray1 or ,maids4--,this fish is the young skate1 and1 like the latter1 it is improved by being hung for a day4 ,it is nicest if cut into fillets and fried4 ,it may be boiled for a few minutes in court-bouillon1 or1 after being par-boiled1 it may be cut into slices1 dipped in oil1 dredged with flour1 and laid on a gridiron to broil for a few moments longer4 ,minced parsley and shallots simmered in butter1 with a tablespoonful of vinegar1 and seasoning of pepper and salt1 should form a gravy to accompany the fillets4 ,roach4--,the roach is a small fresh-water fish of a firm compact flesh4 ,it is best fried4 ,wash and empty the fish1 dredge flour over them when dry1 fry them in hot fat for about five minutes4 ,send anchovy or some very tasty sauce to table with them4 ,salmon4--,for boiling purposes choose salmon with small heads and thick shoulders1 or if buying only a portion of a fish1 choose a piece of the middle or the head and shoulders4 ,after cleaning the fish1 cut off the fins and gills and scrape the scales carefully4 ,lay it in nearly boiling water with plenty of salt in it2 let the water well cover the fish4 ,allow the water to come to boiling point1 then boil gently until a silver fork will pass through the thickest part4 ,as a general rule allow eight minutes to the pound if the fish is a thick one1 five or six minutes if it be a thin one4 ,experience is the only safe guide4 ,it is well to wrap the fish in a thin linen cloth before putting it in the pan2 only be careful in removing the cloth when the fish is done1 lest it be broken4 ,lay the fish on a folded napkin1 and garnish with tufts of parsley1 tomatoes1 and a few prawns4 ,salmon1 ,broiled4--,for broiling purposes slices across the fish about an inch thick are preferable4 ,if nicely cut and rubbed with a little melted butter1 sprinkled with pepper and salt1 laid on the gridiron and broiled on both sides over a very clear hot fire1 turning every two or three minutes till done1 then laid on a hot dish with a pat of fresh butter on each cutlet1 and garnished with whatever is best obtainable1 they are indeed truly admirable4 ,shrimp sauce1 or matre d'htel butter might accompany them4 ,a dish of green peas1 either plainly boiled1 or sautd in butter1 is a most delicious accompaniment to salmon cutlets4 ,salmon1 ,baked4--,take a piece two or three pounds in weight1 either from the middle or the tail end4 ,lay it in a deep pie-dish1 surround it with a few small shallots and sound red tomatoes1 dredge a little flour over it1 sprinkle with pepper and salt1 lay several small pats of butter on the top1 and pour a glassful of white wine into the dish4 ,place the dish in a moderately hot oven and bake for from three-quarters to an hour4 ,when done1 lift the fish on to a dish and keep hot while preparing the sauce4 ,press the tomatoes and shallots through a colander or hair sieve1 add to the liquor in the dish1 with also a teaspoonful each of made mustard1 vinegar1 flour1 and ,worcestershire sauce2 let this boil up once1 then pour round the fish4 ,garnish with curled parsley and a few choice tomatoes4 ,serve whipped potatoes with it1 and cucumbers sliced in vinegar4 ,salmon ,crumbs4--,a dish much liked in the ,north of ,ireland4 ,the remains of cold boiled salmon are divided into flakes and mixed with half their quantity of stale breadcrumbs1 a tablespoonful of fresh butter1 pepper1 salt1 a spoonful of vinegar1 and one or two beaten eggs4 ,butter a shallow pie-dish1 strew with crumbs1 then press the mixture into it1 and bake till brown4 ,any nice sauce1 or a freshly-dressed salad1 may be served with this dish4 ,salmon ,fritters4--,take the remains of cold cooked salmon1 remove the skin and bone and break the flesh into flakes4 ,mix with these an equal quantity of mashed potatoes1 add pepper and salt and an egg to bind the whole together4 ,make the mixture into small flat cakes or fritters1 coat each one with beaten egg1 and dredge with flour2 melt a little nice dripping in a shallow frying-pan1 fry the fritters first on one side1 then on the other1 till they are a nice brown colour1 drain and keep hot while preparing the following3--,the heart of a crisp white lettuce1 shred1 and piled in the centre of a dish1 two hard-boiled eggs shelled and minced small1 strewn over this2 make a dressing with salt and pepper1 one spoonful of vinegar and two of oil1 the whole of a shallot1 some chives and parsley finely minced1 all mixed together1 then poured over the lettuce4 ,sprinkle a little lobster coral over the surface1 place the fritters round the base1 and serve at once4 ,this is a nice supper dish4 ,salmon ,trout4--,these are rightly esteemed a great delicacy4 ,they may be dressed and served according to the recipes given for salmon1 although boiling is the least suitable method4 ,as they seldom exceed two or three pounds in weight1 it scarcely repays to fillet them4 ,for broiling they may be treated like mackerel1 but1 better still1 when they have been duly cleansed and scaled1 wrap them in buttered paper1 and either bake them in the oven or broil them on the gridiron4 ,baking is the best method of cooking salmon trout1 but1 when small1 they are very good if dipped bodily into batter1 then plunged into boiling fat1 and served with matre d'htel sauce4 ,salmon ,trout1 ,baked and ,stuffed4--,a good-sized trout is very nice if baked as follows3--,after emptying and scaling the fish1 fill the cavity with a stuffing of breadcrumbs1 parsley1 herbs1 and an egg to mix it2 sew the sides together if necessary4 ,lay in a baking dish1 dredge with flour1 place butter on the top1 put a tablespoonful of vinegar and one of stock into the dish1 and bake in the oven from twenty minutes to half an hour4 ,lift the fish out on to a dish1 thicken the liquor with flour1 add seasoning1 a spoonful of chopped parsley1 a teaspoonful of anchovy essence1 and pour this sauce round the fish4 ,new potatoes1 green peas1 or baked tomatoes should accompany this dish4 ,sardines4--,tinned sardines are generally eaten without any further preparation1 although very nice sandwiches may be made from them1 also they are an indispensable adjunct to a fish salad4 ,fresh sardines should be first cleansed1 then dried in a soft cloth1 laid on the gridiron and broiled for about two minutes4 ,sprinkle salt and pepper and a dash of vinegar over them1 and serve very hot on toasted bread4 ,shad4--,shad does not enjoy a very high reputation in ,england2 in ,france it is quite a favourite fish and is thought worthy of being cooked in wine1 and served with ,bchamel sauce4 ,its best season is the early spring-time1 ,march to ,may4 ,the ,french way of cooking it is to split it open1 after emptying1 scaling1 and washing it1 then to lay it in oil1 with pepper and salt4 ,after it has soaked in this marinade for a sufficient time1 it is laid on the gridiron1 and broiled very slowly1 on both sides1 for upwards of an hour4 ,served with matre d'htel butter or caper sauce4 ,shad may be fried after first trimming into convenient-sized pieces and dipping each piece in frying batter4 ,it may also be stuffed and baked according to instructions given for salmon trout4 ,shrimps4--,there are several varieties of shrimps4 ,the two kinds most commonly met with are the brown and the red shrimps4 ,the brown kind is caught nearest to the shore in the shallower pools1 and has the strongest flavour4 ,the red shrimp is generally much smaller in size and more refined in flavour4 ,when freshly boiled1 shrimps are excellent as a breakfast relish1 but when stale they are far from wholesome4 ,allow a good handful of coarse salt to the quart of water when boiling2 as soon as they have attained a nice colour they are done4 ,shrimps1 ,potted4--,in potting shrimps1 after they have been well boiled1 take care to pick off both heads and tails and to twist them dexterously out of the shells4 ,as a good quantity of shrimps are required to make a small amount1 it is as well to benefit by an opportunity of shrimp sauce being required1 and so set aside the heads and tails to be used for the latter purpose4 ,after having thoroughly pounded the bodies of the shrimps in a mortar1 put in a small saltspoonful of salt and the same of pepper1 and one or two ounces of fresh butter4 ,pound all well together1 press into small pots1 and pour clarified butter on the surface to exclude the air4 ,shrimp butter is made in the same way1 only adding an equal quantity of butter to the paste4 ,neither of these will keep good many days4 ,shrimp ,forcemeat1 for stuffing sea or fresh-water fish4 ,shred some shrimps and add to them an equal quantity of fresh breadcrumbs4 ,to a tablespoonful of fresh butter add a saltspoonful of seasoning1 and a beaten egg4 ,make the shrimps and crumbs into a stiff paste with this4 ,particularly good as a forcemeat for pike and carp4 ,shrimp ,patties4--7,the same mixture is used for shrimp vol-au-vent74 ,pick off the heads and tails from freshly-boiled shrimps1 and shell them4 ,put the shells into a saucepan1 cover them with water1 and boil gently for a quarter of an hour4 ,strain the liquor1 then thicken it with a teaspoonful of arrowroot1 add the yolk of an egg1 salt and pepper to taste1 a small nob of butter1 stir all together over the fire2 when it is of the consistency of cream1 put in the bodies of the shrimps to heat through and draw the saucepan to one side until required4 ,make some good puff paste1 line the patty pans1 and put a morsel of soft bread in the middle before putting on the cover4 ,bake the patties to a nice brown1 then remove the bread1 replacing it with a spoonful of the mixture1 put on the cover1 brush over the surface and edges with beaten yolk of egg and water1 return the patties to the oven to heat them through again1 then send to table on a pretty d'oyley4 ,they are very good also for eating cold4 ,if liked1 the top crust may be omitted1 and a few breadcrumbs be sprinkled over the top of the mixture4 ,garnish the dish with curly parsley and a few large shrimps4 ,shrimp ,canaps4--,a nice entre4 ,cut some small rounds from a stale loaf of bread1 fry them in oil or lard to a delicate brown1 then cover each with a layer of either potted shrimps or shrimp butter4 ,hard boil two eggs4 ,remove the yolks1 and pound them with a small bit of butter and a pinch of pepper and salt4 ,cut the whites into thin strips4 ,lay the strips in a lattice work over the rounds and place a pat of the yellow mixture in the middle of them1 and a whole shrimp on that1 or the very tiniest sprig of parsley4 ,make a bed of fresh dry parsley on a dish to lay the rounds upon4 ,skate4--,skate is an unwholesome fish if eaten out of season4 ,its best time is during the winter months1 and it is positively improved by being kept for a day or two hung up4 ,however it is dressed it should always be skinned first4 ,the liver is a choice morsel4 ,a method of dressing skate which is much liked by ,french people1 is to do it la ,sainte ,mnehould4 ,for this it should be skinned and cut into neat pieces1 then simmered in white sauce till tender2 the pieces of fish should then be lifted out on to a shallow dish1 the sauce to receive the addition of a yolk of egg and pinch of cayenne pepper1 then to be poured over the fish1 ,parmesan or ,cheshire cheese grated over the top4 ,set the dish in the oven to get thoroughly hot again4 ,for boiling1 large skate are preferable to small ones1 and when possible they should be crimped4 7,n4,b4--,crimping can only be done when the fish is perfectly fresh47 ,it should be plunged into boiling salt water1 then gently simmered till tender4 ,let it drain well4 ,boiled skate is very good served with ,black ,butter sauce4 ,for this last1 a quarter pound of butter should be allowed to frizzle in a saucepan until of a light brown colour1 then a few washed and dried parsley leaves should be thrown in1 a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar1 ditto of mushroom ketchup1 ,worcestershire sauce1 and chopped capers1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,let these boil once1 then either pour over the fish or send to table in a tureen4 ,skate may also be fried1 curried1 or stewed1 according to directions given for other fish4 ,smelts4--,smelts should be handled as little as possible2 not washed1 but wiped with a cloth4 ,the inside should be pulled out with the gills1 as they must not be opened4 ,it is most usual to fry smelts4 ,boiling is not to be recommended1 unless for an invalid1 in which case they should be put into boiling water which contains a few parsley leaves and a lump or two of sugar as well as salt2 four minutes cooking is ample time4 ,a little of the liquor in which they were boiled should receive the addition of cream and chopped parsley1 and be served with them4 ,for frying1 smelts should be first dipped into beaten egg1 then into mixed flour and breadcrumbs1 afterwards fried in a good depth of boiling fat4 ,lift them out with a slice1 drain well1 and garnish with cut lemon4 ,smelts are delicious as a breakfast relish if laid on a gridiron and broiled lightly on both sides1 then placed on a hot dish1 sprinkled with pepper and salt1 lemon juice squeezed over1 and a pat of butter placed on each4 ,they may also be baked au gratin1 and served in the same dish4 ,soles4--,the popular method of cooking this favourite fish is to fry them4 ,some persons declare it to be the best method4 ,if it be so or not1 certain it is that the following ways1 when fairly tried1 will be found to compete very closely in favour4 ,very large soles may be boiled whole1 and will be found most agreeable eating1 not unlike turbot in flavour4 ,when practicable1 soles should be cleansed a couple of hours before they are wanted for cooking1 wrapped in a towel and laid in a cool place to stiffen4 ,the fishmonger will generally skin them2 if not1 it is easy to draw the skin off the back beginning at the head1 gut them1 and take out the roe1 if any4 ,soles1 ,fried4--,medium sized fish are the best for frying whole1 or if large they should be filleted4 ,after cleansing them be careful to wipe very dry1 then dip them first into flour1 next into beaten egg1 and cover with bread raspings4 ,fry quickly in plenty of boiling fat4 ,from five to ten minutes is the time a moderate sized sole will require--but when of a rich colour it is generally cooked sufficiently4 ,lay on a wire sieve or blotting-paper to drain before putting on to a dish4 ,garnish with cut lemons and parsley1 either fresh or fried4 ,sole1 ,boiled4--,let the sole be large1 thick1 and firm2 it should not weigh less than two pounds4 ,wrap it in a clean white cloth 7a napkin which is too old for table use is best71 plunge it into boiling salted water with a tablespoonful of vinegar1 let it boil very gently for about seven or eight minutes1 according to size1 then drain well1 lay carefully on a clean napkin4 ,garnish with sliced tomatoes and lemons1 and tufts of parsley4 ,send to table either melted butter1 shrimp1 or anchovy sauce4 ,soles1 ,baked au ,gratin4--,melt an ounce of butter in a gratin-dish1 or tin baking dish4 ,chop finely two or three shallots1 a small bunch of parsley1 and few herbs1 grate a slice of stale bread4 ,sprinkle half the quantity of these at the bottom of the dish1 lay the sole upon that and cover with the remainder4 ,pour either a glass of white wine or the juice of a lemon over all1 lay a few bits of butter at the top1 and bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes4 ,serve in the same dish1 sprinkled with salt and pepper4 ,or soles are very nice if laid in a buttered dish1 having rubbed them with flour1 more butter placed on the top1 and baked till lightly browned4 ,they may be lifted on to another dish1 but the butter should be served with them4 ,sole la ,normande4--,this is an epicure's dish4 ,after skinning and cleaning a large sole1 dry it thoroughly and rub with flour4 ,take a gratin-dish1 or a porcelain one which will stand fire4 ,slice two shallots very thinly1 brown them in butter1 and lay at the bottom of the dish with more butter4 ,lay the sole in the dish1 sprinkle it with salt and pepper1 and cover with a glass of white wine4 ,bake in a gentle oven until tender through4 ,meanwhile make some rich white sauce with cream2 if possible1 take a few oysters1 beard them1 and put them into the sauce with their liquor2 let the sauce merely simmer after this4 ,open a small tin of button mushrooms1 mince them finely1 and strew them over the sole1 let them get hot through1 then pour the oyster sauce over all4 ,garnish with a few shrimps1 and place tiny croutons of fried bread round the edge4 ,cider may be used instead of wine4 ,soles1 ,filleted4--,fillet a large sole by slitting it down the middle of the back1 and with a sharp knife raising the flesh from the bone on each side4 ,divide the meat into convenient sized pieces1 say two inches broad and three long1 make a marinade of salt1 pepper1 vinegar1 and oil1 lay the fillets in this1 turning them often1 and let them lie an hour or so4 ,prepare a frying batter--a heaped spoonful of flour mixed smooth with a little oil and cold water1 a pinch of salt1 and the whites of two eggs--it should be fairly thick4 ,well coat each fillet with this1 then drop into boiling fat1 and fry till a nice brown4 ,garnish prettily1 and serve with tomato sauce4 ,the fillets of sole may be dipped into egg and bread raspings1 fried1 then laid in the following sauce to heat through1 before serving altogether3 half a pint of clear stock thickened with a tablespoonful of flour1 mixed smooth with butter1 a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup1 a teaspoonful of curry powder1 the same of tarragon vinegar1 and a pinch of salt4 ,let the sauce be well cooked before putting in the fillets4 ,the fillets1 or small soles whole1 may be gently simmered in butter till tender1 then laid on a hot dish1 and white sauce seasoned with salt1 pepper1 and lemon juice1 be poured over them4 ,if the soles be boiled for two minutes only before putting them in the butter1 and the sauce be made with cream1 this will be found a most delicious way of dressing them for invalids4 ,sprats4--,sprats resemble herrings very closely4 ,they are abundant on the ,north ,british coasts1 particularly in the ,firth of ,forth4 ,in ,edinburgh and ,glasgow they are known as garvies4 ,they may be cooked in any of the ways prescribed for herrings1 but are best broiled over the fire1 and lemon juice improves the flavour of them4 ,sturgeon4--,the sturgeon is somewhat of a rarity in ,english markets1 although common enough in ,russia4 ,it is regarded as a royal fish1 and is proportionately costly4 ,its flesh is delicious1 and the caviare which the ,russians prepare from the roe is justly esteemed a great delicacy4 ,the ,russian method of dressing it is to par-boil it in water with onions1 herbs1 and baysalt1 then to drain it1 dredge it with flour1 and pour melted butter liberally over it1 then to lay it before a bright fire to roast1 serving with a rich sauce1 either poured over it1 or in a tureen4 ,sturgeon is very good if simply roasted before the fire1 taking care to baste frequently with butter4 ,of course all the skin and spikes are previously stripped off1 and the fish well cleansed4 ,sturgeon1 ,stewed4--,this is one of the best ways of cooking a portion of this fish4 ,take two or three slices about an inch thick1 let them steep in vinegar awhile4 ,dry them1 dip in flour1 and place in some frothing butter in a covered stewpan4 ,let them brown on both sides1 then remove the fish1 and in its place put a few shallots1 half a small carrot cut into dice1 and some button mushrooms4 ,when these have browned1 cover them with half a pint of clear veal broth1 a good tumblerful of claret1 a teaspoonful of salt and pepper mixed1 then replace the slices of sturgeon4 ,let all stew together for upwards of an hour1 when remove the fish on to a dish1 strain the sauce from the vegetables1 thicken it with a little flour rolled in butter1 and add a spoonful of some sharp sauce4 ,pour over the fish on the dish4 ,tench4--,river tench are the best for the table4 ,they somewhat resemble carp1 but are smaller in size and of a richer flavour4 ,they should lie in salt water for a few hours1 then be turned into clear spring water1 to rid them of the slight muddy flavour which they are apt to have4 ,the cold winter months are their best season4 ,empty and scale the tench very carefully1 always removing the gills1 as they are most apt to retain the muddy flavour4 ,after the fish is cleansed it is a good plan to rub it well over with lemon juice4 ,it may then be baked au gratin1 or boiled in salt water1 or broiled over the fire4 ,if the last-named method be chosen1 let the fish be steeped in oil1 sprinkled with salt and pepper1 and wrapped in oiled paper before laying on the gridiron4 ,great care is needed not to let the paper catch fire4 ,remove the paper before bringing to table1 lay the fish on a hot dish and serve a sauce piquante over it4 ,the time it takes to cook will depend entirely on the size of the fish4 ,broiling will require about ten minutes to the pound2 boiling and baking rather less time4 ,tench is also good if fried4 ,after scaling and cleaning it should be dipped into vinegar and water1 dried1 and split open2 dredge it with flour1 and plunge into boiling fat4 ,serve garnished with parsley and lemons4 ,trout1 ,baked4--,one of the nicest ways of dressing trout is to simply bake them with butter4 ,wash1 empty1 and dry the trout1 sprinkle them with seasoned flour1 lay in a baking tin in which a little butter has been melted1 place several pats of butter over them1 and bake about twenty minutes4 ,lift them out on to a dish1 garnish with parsley1 thicken the butter slightly1 stir in a spoonful of chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon juice1 and pour the sauce round the fish4 ,trout1 ,boiled4--,fresh trout is excellent if boiled in court-bouillon for ten to fifteen minutes1 then drained and served with ,dutch sauce or melted butter4 ,this method is similar to that recommended by the great ,izaak ,walton4 ,turbot4--,the turbot is the king of flat fish1 and is justly held in high estimation4 ,it is rather an expensive fish1 and is mostly sold by size4 ,at its best from ,february to ,august4 ,it will keep good for a day1 or even two1 if slightly salted4 ,salt should be rubbed all over to help to remove the slime4 ,the fins should not be cut off1 but an incision should be made all the way down the middle of the backbone on the dark side to prevent the white side cracking4 ,lemon juice rubbed over it helps to preserve the colour4 ,any unsightly spots on the white side may be removed by rubbing with salt and lemon juice4 ,turbot1 ,boiled4--,after preparing the turbot according to the directions given above1 lay it in the turbot kettle and cover with cold water to the depth of an inch4 ,allow a good handful of salt to a gallon of water4 ,bring it up to boiling point as quickly as possible1 and remove the scum as it rises4 ,when it boils draw it aside to simmer gently1 watch it carefully1 and as soon as it shows signs of the flesh shrinking from the bone1 lift it out on the drainer1 let it drain a minute1 then slide it carefully on to a clean napkin4 ,garnish with parsley1 cut lemons1 and if a few crayfish are obtainable they add greatly to the beauty of the dish4 ,a sprinkling of lobster coral on the white surface is very pretty4 ,whatever sauce accompanies boiled turbot1 it should be brought to table in a tureen4 ,a pretty way of garnishing boiled turbot in summer time is to surround it with a border of nasturtium flowers4 ,turbot1 with ,anchovy ,cream4--,boil a medium sized turbot according to the last recipe--by the way1 a turbot ought to be thick and of a creamy white colour2 if thin and bluish looking it is not a good one4 ,lay the fish on a hot dish without a napkin1 cover to keep it hot4 ,then into half a pint of plain melted butter1 stir in a good teaspoonful of essence of anchovies1 and a quarter of a pint of rich cream2 let it nearly boil1 then pour over the turbot4 ,chop small a few pickled gherkins and capers1 strew them over the surface4 ,before bringing to table1 make a border round this of new kidney potatoes1 well boiled but not broken2 garnish the outer edge with parsley4 ,turbot la ,bchamel4--,this is one of the best ways of dressing cold turbot4 ,make a pint of ,bchamel sauce by boiling together equal quantities of good white stock and cream in an enamelled saucepan1 also a strip of fresh lemon rind and two or three shallots4 ,add a mixed teaspoonful of salt and pepper1 thicken with a spoonful of arrowroot1 and let it boil well4 ,remove the lemon rind and shallots1 and put in the pieces of turbot to heat through1 all skin and bone removed4 ,when quite hot1 pour all together on to a hot dish2 if liked1 a few oysters may be added to the sauce just before turning it out4 ,some potato croquettes are a nice addition to this dish4 ,turbot ,salad4--,the remains of cold turbot will make an excellent salad4 ,free it from all skin and bone1 and divide into pieces about an inch square4 ,sprinkle the pieces with salt and pepper and a little vinegar4 ,take two large fresh lettuces1 let them be quite clean and dry4 ,make a dressing for the salad of the beaten yolks of two eggs1 a teaspoonful of made mustard1 salt and pepper1 four spoonsful of oil1 and one of tarragon vinegar4 ,arrange the salad in a bowl or dish by making a layer of shred lettuce leaves1 then one of fish1 and a few spoonsful of the dressing1 and continue thus until the material is used up4 ,garnish the top with sliced beetroot1 hard-boiled eggs1 c41 and let the salad stand in a cold place for half an hour4 ,turbot may be cooked au gratin if of a small size1 allowing white wine or cider to it4 ,french cooks generally prefer to par-boil it in court-bouillon1 then to take it out and finish cooking it in white sauce4 ,whitebait4--,whitebait are genuine ,cockney fish1 being found alone in the ,thames in perfection4 ,they make their appearance early in the year1 but the season par excellence is the month of ,may4 ,they cannot be had too fresh2 if not used instantly they are brought in1 they should lie in ice-water until required4 ,it is generally thought that only a professional can cook whitebait1 but if due care be given there is no reason why they should be beyond the skill of the amateur4 ,the principal thing to observe is the drying of the fish4 ,after well draining them they should be thrown on to a floured cloth--a cloth containing flour an inch in depth4 ,when thus dosed1 the fish should be put into a sifter and lightly shaken to remove all superfluous flour4 ,they should next be put into a wire basket1 a few at a time1 and plunged into a pan containing a good depth of boiling fat4 ,a minute generally suffices to cook them1 then they should be laid on a hot dish1 garnished with fried parsley1 and sent to table instantly4 ,it is absolutely needful to fry the whitebait the moment after it is floured2 if allowed to remain on one side for only a few minutes1 it becomes flabby and spoilt4 ,thin brown bread and butter and slices of lemon are an indispensable accompaniment to whitebait4 ,for ,devilled ,whitebait lift out the basket of fish when only half cooked1 pepper them with black or cayenne pepper and return to the fat to finish cooking4 ,whiting4--,whiting are excellent fish when fresh1 the flesh being light1 tender1 and easy of digestion4 ,the firmness of the flesh1 and its silvery hue1 are the signs by which to judge of its freshness4 ,it is more or less in season all the year1 but at its best in the winter months4 ,occasionally they attain to a considerable size1 but are mostly from one to two pounds in weight4 ,those about nine inches in length are the best in point of flavour4 ,whiting are best broiled or fried4 ,whiting1 ,broiled4--,wash in salted water1 split them open1 and dry thoroughly4 ,dip them in oil1 sprinkle with seasoning1 dredge with flour1 and then lay on a greased gridiron1 and broil lightly on both sides4 ,place them on a hot dish1 put a pat of butter on each1 and serve smoking hot4 ,whiting1 ,fried4--,empty1 and wash the fish1 skin it1 and then draw the tail through the mouth4 ,dip each one first into flour1 then in beaten egg and breadcrumbs1 drop into boiling fat1 and fry to a golden brown4 ,garnish the dish with fried parsley1 and send sauce to table in a tureen4 ,a large whiting may be split open1 floured1 and then fried in a smaller quantity of fat4 ,when done1 lay it on a dish and pour the following sauce over it3 ,a tablespoonful of minced herbs1 the same of parsley1 a pinch of seasoning1 an ounce of fresh butter1 and small glass of white wine all boiled together4 ,,part ,,iv4 ,,fish ,,sauces4 ,a few plain directions as to the making of sauces suitable for serving with fish1 will1 we think1 not be unwelcome4 ,first as to that sauce commonly known as-- ,melted ,butter4--,in ,france this sauce is what its name declares it to be1 viz41 a tureen half full of pure butter dissolved1 in strong contrast to that generally found on ,english tables1 where a mixture of milk and water thickened with flour1 is usually dignified with this title4 ,true butter sauce belongs to neither of these extremes4 ,as one ladleful will generally suffice for each individual partaking of fish1 it is as well to measure into the saucepan the number of ladlefuls that will be required1 so that there shall be no waste of good material4 ,having ascertained how much liquid will be in the saucepan when the sauce is finished1 pour away the water and proceed to divide the materials you will use4 ,a small lump of butter should be allowed for each ladleful of sauce4 ,take one lump and let it dissolve1 then stir in a heaped tablespoonful of dry flour1 mix these quite smoothly together1 with the addition of cold water1 until like a cream2 add boiling water to make half the quantity of sauce1 then stir in by degrees the remaining lumps of butter4 ,if the sauce shows signs of looking oily1 a little cold water will correct it4 ,a pinch of salt should be added1 or salt butter may be used4 ,matre d',htel ,butter4--,for this prepare a little melted butter1 by mixing an ounce of butter with the same weight of flour1 and cold water to make it smooth4 ,dilute with a quarter of a pint of white stock4 ,let this mixture boil1 then stir in a tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 one of sweet herbs1 half one of minced chives1 a teaspoonful of mixed salt and pepper1 the juice of a lemon1 or a spoonful of tarragon vinegar1 and a spoonful of pure oil2 when these have been well mixed together1 draw aside the saucepan and stir in the beaten yolk of an egg1 then pour into a hot tureen4 ,herb ,sauce3 for ,broiled ,fish4--,chop some dry parsley until quite fine1 also an equal quantity of mixed herbs--thyme1 marjoram1 sage1 chervil1 celery1 fennel1 c4 ,put first a small lump of butter to dissolve in the saucepan1 and chop finely a shallot and let it frizzle in this1 then stir in the parsley and herbs1 and add sufficient vinegar to cover them4 ,draw the saucepan aside and let it simmer ten minutes to abstract the flavour4 ,just before it is wanted1 add pepper and a pinch of salt1 also a good tablespoonful of oil4 ,a yolk of egg1 added lastly1 will slightly thicken and improve it1 but it is very good without1 especially for broiled herrings and mackerel4 ,anchovy ,sauce4--,anchovy sauce is quickly and easily made according to the recipe given in the previous chapter 7see letter ,a71 but if a richer sauce is desired1 the anchovies should be boiled gently until they dissolve4 ,then the liquor be strained1 added to a little plain melted butter with a glass of port wine4 ,shrimp ,sauce4--,for this the foundation is again melted butter1 and to half a pint of that allow half a pint of shrimps4 ,pick off heads1 tails1 and shells1 and let the bodies stew gently in the sauce1 but not boil1 or they will harden4 ,add a pinch of cayenne pepper1 a little lemon-juice1 a drop of anchovy essence1 and salt to taste4 ,lobster ,sauce can be made in the same way1 using a little of the white meat of the lobster torn into flakes1 in place of the shrimps1 and stirring in a spoonful of lobster butter4 ,it must not boil or the colour will be spoilt4 ,to give this sauce a stronger flavour of lobster1 the shell may be boiled in water1 and the liquor used instead of water4 ,fennel ,sauce4--,pick some fennel from the stalk and boil it for a minute1 then chop it fine and add to some melted butter4 ,stir in the yolk of an egg the last thing4 ,a teaspoonful of spiced vinegar will give piquancy to it4 ,parsley ,sauce4--,parsley sauce is merely melted butter with chopped parsley stirred in4 ,it is an improvement to let the sauce boil a moment or two after to take off the raw flavour4 ,horseradish ,sauce4--,to two tablespoonsful of finely-scraped horseradish and one of stale white breadcrumbs allow half a pint of cream--or new milk and cream--and a pinch of salt4 ,let this stew for fifteen minutes1 then stir in a spoonful of vinegar just before serving4 ,gooseberry ,sauce1 for ,mackerel4--,stew half a pint of gooseberries in a little water until very soft1 press them through a sieve into the same quantity of melted butter1 add an ounce of white sugar1 and a spoonful of spinach-juice to give a nice green colour4 ,egg ,sauce4--,first ,way3 ,make some good melted butter1 stir into it two or three hard-boiled eggs which have been cut up small1 and season it well4 ,just before serving stir in the beaten yolk of a fresh egg4 ,second ,way 7for cold fish73 ,beat the yolks of two fresh eggs1 stir in a teaspoonful of made mustard1 half a teaspoonful of mixed salt and pepper1 and by degrees two tablespoonsful of salad oil and one of tarragon vinegar4 ,it should be of the consistency of cream4 ,this sauce is almost identical with ,mayonnaise sauce1 and to make a green mayonnaise add finely-minced chives1 parsley1 chervil1 and cress4 ,tomato ,sauce4--,melt an ounce of butter1 and slice one or two tomatoes thinly into it1 add one or two shallots4 ,let these stew till quite soft1 then press through a wire sieve4 ,add a little more butter to this pure1 plenty of salt and pepper1 and a spoonful of vinegar4 ,make thoroughly hot before serving4 ,regard should always be had to contrast of colour in garnishing all dishes4 ,where the fish is masked in white sauce1 the introduction of something red amongst the green garnishing is a relief to the eye4 ,flowers may be used to supply this needful touch of colour1 slices of beetroot1 or a few strips of boiled carrot1 or a few bright prawns1 one or two chilies1 c4 ,if a portion of salmon1 showing the bright colour of the meat1 is the dish which has to be trimmed1 a few mounds of scraped horseradish alternating with tufts of curly parsley looks well4 ,for fried fish--soles1 fillets1 lobster cutlets1 c41 it is better to fry the parsley which is used for their garnishing4 ,double-curled parsley1 well dried1 thrown into a wire basket and plunged into the boiling fat1 for one minute only1 is the way to obtain this4 ,crisp1 fried croutons of bread1 tiny potato balls1 rice balls1 sliced lemons1 small bright tomatoes1 and slices of hard-boiled egg1 are all excellent for garnishing purposes4 ,fish that has been baked in the oven--excepting always that which has been done au gratin1 and which requires no garnish--will often be made to look very pretty if a few fancy shapes be stamped out of cooked vegetables1 say the red of a carrot1 the white of a turnip1 tiny sprigs of cauliflower1 c41 always using green parsley to finish off the outer edge4 ,where there is the will to do it1 means will not be lacking whereby the simplest dish may be made to look elegant4 ,the ,gresham ,press1 ,,unwin ,,brothers ,,woking ,,and ,,london4 ,transcriber ,note ,hyphenation was standardized to the most commonly used version4 ,some accents were corrected and one added for consistent usage4 ,the measurement nob 7small amount7 was retained rather than the current knob4