,note3 ,images of the original pages are available through ,internet ,archive4 ,see https3_/_/archive4org_/details_/oystersf ish#jjmurr ,transcriber's note3 ,text enclosed by underscores is in italics 7italics74 ,text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face 7bold74 ,,oysters ,,and ,,fish by ,,thomas ,j4 ,,murrey ,author of 8,fifty ,soups10 8,fifty ,salads10 8,breakfast ,dainties10 8,puddings and ,dainty ,desserts10 8,the ,book of ,entres10 8,cookery for ,invalids10 8,practical ,carving10 8,luncheon10 8,valuable ,cooking ,recipes10 etc4 ,illustration ,new ,york ,copyright1 #ahhh1 by ,frederick ,a4 ,stokes ,brother #ahhh ,,dedication4 ,to the ,inventor of the ,,sheldon ,,close-,,top ,,gas-,,stove1 ,who spent the best part of his life solving the perplexed problem of ,economy in ,fuel and ,labor in our homes1 and to those gentlemen connected with gas companies1 who assisted and encouraged him1 this little work is most respectfully dedicated by ,,the ,,author4 ,,contents4 ,,page ,,introductory #aa ,,the ,,oyster #aa ,,the ,,oyster ,,season #aa ,,oysters ,,out ,,of ,,season #ab ,,oysters ,,preserved ,,in ,,shell #ab ,,the ,,food ,,of ,,the ,,oyster #ad ,,formation ,,of ,,the ,,deep ,,shell #ad ,,cock ,,oysters #ae ,,green ,,oysters #ae ,,banquet ,,oysters #af ,,ordering ,,oysters ,,for ,,the ,,family ,,table #ag ,,how ,,oysters ,,should ,,be ,,opened #ah ,,how ,,to ,,serve ,,raw ,,oysters #ah ,,collation ,,service #ai ,,how ,,to ,,eat ,a ,,raw ,,oyster #ai ,a ,,barrel ,,of ,,oysters #bj ,,read ,,this6 #bj ,,cooked ,,oysters #ba ,,stewed ,,oysters #ba ,,philadelphia ,,fried ,,oysters #bb ,,curry ,,of ,,oysters #bd ,,pickled-,,oyster ,,omelet #bd ,,deviled ,,oysters ,,on ,,toast #bd ,,pickled ,,oysters #bd ,,scalloped ,,oysters #be ,,oyster ,,salad #be ,,plain ,,fried ,,oysters #bf ,,miss ,,parloa',s 8,,new ,,cook-,,book0 #bf ,,oyster ,,toast #bf ,,oyster ,,omelet #bf ,,oysters1 ,,broiled #bg ,,tripe ,,with ,,oysters #bg ,,oysters ,,en ,,brochette #bg ,,fried ,,oysters #bh ,,oyster ,,and ,,canned ,,salmon ,,pie #bh ,,oyster ,,patties #bh ,,oysters ,,la ,,poulette #bi ,,pie ,,of ,,oysters ,,and ,,scallops #bi ,,steamed ,,oysters #cj ,,to ,,serve ,,steamed ,,oysters #cj ,,roast ,,oysters #ca ,,baked ,,oysters #ca ,,clams #ca ,,little-,,neck ,,clams #ca ,,soft ,,clams ,,in ,,chafing-,,dish #cb ,,stewed ,,little-,,neck ,,clams #cc ,,soft ,,clams #cc ,,soft-,,shell ,,clams ,,scalloped #cc ,,clam ,,toast #cd ,,clam ,,broth #cd ,,clam ,,fritters #cd ,,fried ,,soft ,,clams #ce ,,crabs #ce ,,hard-,,shell ,,crabs #ce ,,crab ,,patties1 ,,cream ,,sauce #cf ,,soft-,,shell ,,crabs #cg ,,the ,,care ,,of ,,soft ,,crabs #ch ,,crabs1 ,,soft-,,shell #ci ,,crab ,,croquettes #ci ,,crab ,,patties1 ,,la ,,bechamel #dj ,,crabs1 ,l',,am,,ricaine #da ,,crabs1 ,,deviled #da ,,scallops #db ,,scallop ,,broth #db ,,small ,,patties ,,of ,,scallops #dc ,,fried ,,scallops #dc ,,scallops ,,en ,,brochette #dd ,,stewed ,,scallops #dd ,,mussels #dd ,,the ,,mussel #dd ,,the ,,lobster #de ,,remarks ,,on ,,the ,,lobster #de ,,the ,,season ,,for ,,lobster #de ,,soft-,,shell ,,lobster ,,not ,,edible #df ,,selecting ,,lobsters #df ,,value ,,of ,,the ,,lobster ,,as ,,food #df ,,broiled ,,lobster #dg ,,lobster ,,croquettes ,,with ,,pease #dh ,,lobsters ,,en ,,brochette #dh ,,deviled ,,lobster #di ,,stewed ,,lobster1 ,,la ,,cr,,ole #di ,,curry ,,of ,,lobster #ej ,,lobster ,,salad #ej ,,the ,,oyster ,,crab #ea ,,to ,,serve ,,oyster ,,crabs #eb ,,oyster-,,crab ,,omelet #eb ,,oyster-,,crab ,,sauce #eb ,,acknowledgment #ec ,,shrimps #ec ,,market ,,price ,,of ,,shrimps #ed ,,shrimp ,,omelet #ed ,,shrimp ,,sauce #ed ,,prawns #ed ,,curry ,,of ,,prawns #ee ,,prawns1 ,,deviled1 ,,en ,,coquille #ee ,,prawns1 ,,saut1 ,,la ,,marengo #ee ,,prawn ,,salad #ef ,,crayfish #ef ,,crayfish ,,omelet #eg ,,salmon #eg ,,salmon ,,steak #eg ,,canned ,,salmon #eg ,,salmon ,,patties #eh ,,salmon ,,surprise #ei ,,salmon ,,la ,,cr,,ole #ei ,,salmon ,,pie #fj ,,salmon ,,in ,,jelly #fj ,,salmon ,,omelet #fa ,,salmon1 ,,german ,,style #fa ,,salmon ,l',,italienne #fa ,,salmon ,,la ,,hollandaise #fb ,,salmon1 ,,hunter',s ,,style #fb ,,bouillabaisse #fc ,,codfish #fc ,,boiled ,,codfish1 ,,oyster ,,sauce #fc ,,codfish ,,tongues #fd ,,codfish ,,steak #fd ,,new-,,england ,,codfish ,,balls #fe ,,baked ,,cod #ff ,,salt ,,codfish ,,with ,,cream #ff ,,scrod #fg ,,brook ,,trout #fg ,,brook ,,trout1 ,,sportsman ,,style #fh ,,broiled ,,trout #fi ,,brook ,,trout1 ,,baked #fi ,,brook ,,trout1 ,,boiled #gj ,,miscellaneous #gj ,,catfish1 ,,fried #gj ,,tenderloin ,,trout #ga ,,fricasseed ,,eels #ga ,,eel ,,patties #gb ,,stewed ,,eels1 ,,hoboken ,,turtle ,,club ,,style #gb ,,pan ,,bass1 ,,anchovy ,,butter #gc ,,fillet ,,of ,,flounder1 ,,tartar ,,sauce #gd ,,fried ,,tomcods #ge ,,broiled ,,salt ,,codfish #ge ,,broiled ,,salt ,,mackerel #gf ,,fried ,,porgies ,,with ,,salt ,,pork #gg ,,fish ,,curries #gh ,a ,,plain ,,fish ,,curry #gh ,,curry ,,of ,,scallops #gh ,,curry ,,of ,,crayfish #gi ,,curry ,,of ,,eels1 ,,with ,,rice #gi ,,curry ,,of ,,shad ,,roe #gi ,,curry ,,of ,,frogs' ,,legs #hj ,,broiled ,,weakfish #hj ,,baked ,,whitefish1 ,,bordeaux ,,sauce #ha ,,halibut1 ,,egg ,,sauce #hb ,,egg ,,sauce #hb ,,fried ,,butterfish #hb ,,broiled ,,shad #hb ,,baked ,,shad #hc ,,shad ,,roe ,,la ,,poulette #hc ,,broiled ,,royans #hd ,,broiled ,,sardines #hd ,,broiled ,,smelts1 ,,sauce ,,tartare #hd ,,smelts ,,fried1 ,,sauce ,,tartare #he ,,broiled ,,whitefish #he ,,sheep',s-,,head ,,with ,,drawn ,,butter #he ,,drawn ,,butter #hf ,,broiled ,,sheep',s-,,head #hf ,,introductory4 ,would it not be beneficial1 were the average ,american to substitute fish for the everlasting steak and chop of the breakfast-table8 ,for the sake of variety1 if for no other reason1 we should eat more fish2 and it need not always be fried or broiled4 ,a well-made fish stew or a curry should be acceptable to the majority of us1 and undoubtedly would be if appetizingly prepared4 ,this little work does not by any means propose to exhaust the subject of sea-food1 for the subject is almost inexhaustible2 but it places within the reach of all a series of recipes and suggestions extremely valuable to the average housewife4 ,,the ,,oyster4 ,the ,oyster ,season opens in the city of ,new ,york on the first day of ,september1 and closes on the last day of ,april in each year4 ,the annual amount of business done in the oyster trade is close on to #e1jjj1jjj4 ,each successive year witnesses an increase in the business4 ,notwithstanding the ,r canon1 there are thousands of persons who eat oysters at the summer resorts along the seashore throughout hot weather4 ,oysters out of ,season4--,the writer does not recommend the eating of oysters out of their season1 no matter how fresh they may be1 or how appetizing they may appear4 ,to supply the demands made upon them by summer resorts1 oyster-planters shift the oysters1 during the spawning season1 from warm shallow water to cold deep water4 ,this checks or prevents the oysters from spawning1 and to all appearance they are edible2 but the writer firmly believes that interfering with the laws of nature affects the health of the oyster1 and they cannot be as wholesome as planters would have us believe4 ,oysters ,preserved in ,shell4--,so long as the oyster retains its natural juices1 it will live out of water1 provided the changes in the temperature are not too sudden4 ,the moment the oyster opens its shells1 however1 the juices run out1 and in a short time afterward the oyster dies4 ,to prevent the oyster opening its stony overcoat1 is the object of oyster-shippers2 and the ,patent ,office bears witness to their many devices having this object in view4 ,some wire the shells1 others clasp or envelope the broad end of the shells with tin or other metal4 ,no doubt these devices aid in keeping the oyster alive and fresh a little longer4 ,whether the nervous system of the oyster is affected by the process1 is a question4 ,scientists tell us that oysters possess organs of sensation1 and all who have handled oysters learn in time that a sudden jar or shock will kill them4 ,the jar of the machinery of a steamboat will sometimes kill an oyster4 ,when shipped to ,europe they are ordered to be stored as far away from the machinery as possible4 ,some authorities claim that the oyster can hear4 ,one cannot noisily approach an oyster-bed at feeding time without their hearing1 and instantly every shell is closed4 ,a cloud or a boat passing over an oyster-bank will cause every shell to close with proverbial tightness1 and the sound of thunder will often kill them while they are in transit1--conclusive evidence that the nervous system in an oyster1 while not highly developed1 is of sufficient importance to merit attention from those who roughly handle oysters4 ,the ,food of the ,oyster consists of minute animal and vegetable organisms and small particles of organized matter4 ,ordinary sea-water contains an abundance of this sort of food1 which is drawn into the gills with the water4 ,as the water strains through the pores into the water tubes1 the food particles are caught on the surface of the gills by a layer of adhesive slime4 ,as soon as they are entangled1 the microscopic hair-like projections on the gills strike against them in such a way as to slide them along the gills toward the mouth4 ,when they reach the anterior ends of the gills1 they are pushed off1 and fall between the lips1 which are also covered with thin hair-like projections1 which carry the particles forward until they slide into the mouth4 ,no wonder the intelligent tramp wished that he might become an oyster4 ,his food would then come to him in a sort of endless progression4 ,formation of the ,deep ,shell4--,although the oyster lies upon the bottom with one shell above and one below1 the shells are not upon the top and bottom of the body1 but upon the right and left sides4 ,the two shells are symmetrical in the young oyster2 but after it becomes attached1 the lower or attached side grows faster than the other1 and becomes deep and spoon-shaped1 while the free valve remains nearly flat4 ,in nearly every case the lower or deep valve is the left4 ,cock ,oysters4--,there is a belief among oyster-eaters1 that the dark-gray or black oysters are male oysters1 and are therefore superior to the female oyster4 ,such misinformation was evidently promulgated by oyster-openers in anticipation of a tip for serving selected oysters4 ,there is no truth in the assertion1 however1 for there are just as many black female oysters as there are black male oysters4 ,there is no characteristic color by which a male or cock oyster can be distinguished from a female oyster4 ,microscopic examination1 or a scientific eye1 is the means of discovering the sex of an oyster4 ,the black-oyster romance is of ancient origin4 ,the ,roman oyster-smashers successfully 8worked it0 on ,pliny1 ,horace1 and other ancient writers and epicures4 ,green ,oysters4--,at least a million dollars worth of oysters are annually destroyed in ,new-,york waters by sludge acid from the oil refineries and illegal dumpings4 ,the acid kills the oysters the instant it touches them1 and turns them green4 ,there is very little danger that a poisoned oyster will reach the consumer1 but the loss to the planter is enormous4 ,the green tint of the oyster1 or in fact any distinguished color the oyster may possess1 is due to the color of its food and to the nature of the surrounding bottom4 ,the bottom of the ,shrewsbury ,river is mud2 the oysters take on a peculiar tawny color from their muddy bed4 ,rockaway oysters exist on a hard sandy bottom4 ,if the beds are covered with sea-lettuce1 as they often are1 the oysters take on a delicate green tint4 ,when the lettuce is removed by a strong tide or high wind1 the oysters gradually assume their white1 slightly grayish color4 ,their shells are round1 thin1 and brittle4 ,the shells from mud bottoms are long1 narrow1 thick1 and spongy4 ,intruded mud is enclosed by a thin layer of pearly shell4 ,the oyster epicure may rest assured of one fact4 ,no matter what the color of an oyster may be1 so long as it is alive and seasonable it is wholesome4 ,it cannot absorb enough foreign matter to injure the epicure without committing suicide1 and there is no possible danger of any one swallowing a dead oyster4 ,banquet ,oysters4--,as served at the average public banquet1 the raw oyster is a thing of terror to appetite and to weak digestive organs4 ,when looking for one's seat1 where1 through an oversight1 one is not furnished with a chart of the tables1 one beholds six very small emaciated oysters4 ,the heat in the room has absorbed their moisture1 afterwards the bed of fine ice on which they were placed has melted1 and the water overflowed them1 thereby finishing the work of destruction4 ,one must be under the influence of the sherry and ,vermouth of the reception-rooms1 to be willing to begin the feast with such an introductory course4 ,no wonder fashionable society demands a substitute for the oyster as the dinner season progresses4 ,in the name of humanity1 order the oysters to table and announce the dinner at the same time4 ,guests are willing to wait a few moments for toothsome oysters1 provided they are direct from the ice-box4 ,ordering ,oysters for the ,family ,table4--,send the servant to the nearest dealer1 a few minutes before the oysters are wanted1 and let her wait for them4 ,in this way one is quite sure of procuring freshly opened oysters4 ,many dealers begin opening oysters for their family orders hours before they are to be served2 and the result is1 they have lost much of their juices before being served4 ,miss ,parloa's 8,new ,cook ,book0 says1 8,six large oysters are usually allowed each person40 ,this error should be corrected in future editions4 ,large raw oysters on the half-shell are only served at oyster-counters to countrymen1 and are not served at a dinner1 no matter how unpretentious or how elaborate the affair may be4 ,how ,oysters should be opened4--,in the author's work on 8,luncheon10 reference is made to the great care which should be exercised in opening oysters2 and it will bear repeating4 ,reject all oysters opened by the 8smashing0 process4 ,the shells are not only broken and ragged1 but1 should a person swallow a ragged splinter of oyster-shell1 there is great danger of its killing him4 ,insist on it that your oysters are opened by the so-called 8stabbing0 process4 ,how to serve ,raw ,oysters4--,if for a quiet family affair1 where 8opened0 oysters are used1 keep the plates in ice-water1 and dry them before placing the oysters on them4 ,for more pretentious affairs1 but where fancy oyster-plates are not a part of the dinner service1 use soup-plates4 ,fill them with fine cracked ice1 place a dainty doily over each1 and set the oysters on top of the doily4 ,the lemon should be served on a side-dish1 and not in the centre of the dish as though one were dining in a restaurant4 ,four small ,rockaways are sufficient to serve at the ordinary course dinner4 ,in nine cases are out of ten1 ,rockaways are served instead of the ,blue ,points4 ,it is therefore advisable to order the former2 the dealer might make a mistake if he had them in stock1 and send the latter4 ,it is quite ,english to serve raw oysters on the flat half-shell1 but it is quite ,american to serve them on the deep shell4 ,the ,american way is the best4 ,collation ,service4--,at evening collations1 the oysters are served in the centre of a block of ice4 ,a clear1 square block of ice is selected1 and a cavity or receptacle is made in it by the aid of a hot flat-iron held close to the ice4 ,if one has patience1 the cavity may be shaved out with an ice shave2 if a pick is used1 one is likely to split the cake of ice4 ,an ice boat is easily formed by holding a hot flat-iron to a long piece of ice4 ,holes may be made through the bottom of the block of ice1 and filled with brilliant flowers2 and the outer sides and top should be handsomely decorated with flowers and smilax4 ,if electric lights are used in the house1 it is an easy matter to place them in the cake of ice3 the effect is striking4 ,the wires are carried from the room below the dining-room1 or under the carpet4 ,how to eat a ,raw ,oyster4--,avoid as much as possible the use of condiments1 when eating oysters4 ,they were never intended as an accompaniment of the oyster1 and are only used by country people4 ,a suspicion of lemon2 a dash of salt when the dealer has kept them covered with cracked ice1 and the descending ice-water washed out all sea flavor2 and1 for palates grown callous1 a dash of cayenne4 ,such abominations as ketchup1 ,worcestershire sauce1 etc41 should never be used4 ,do not bolt the oyster1 but masticate it2 and one will soon learn to tell the different oysters by their different flavors4 ,by bolting them1 one will never know how to thoroughly appreciate them4 ,a ,barrel of ,oysters4--,persons living away from the city are advised to purchase oysters by the barrel4 ,if kept with the deep shell down1 and in a cool place1 they will live a long time4 ,the novice is likely to bruise fingers in vain attempts to open them2 but1 like carving1 the opening of oysters should be part of a man's education4 ,then there is the charm of roasting the oysters in the old-fashioned fire-place4 ,here the novice may burn a finger or two1 but then it's fun for the youngsters4 ,read this6--,in ,w4 ,mattieu ,williams's 8,chemistry of ,cookery10 ,i find the following3 8,more than half a century has elapsed since ,dr4 ,beaumont published the results of his experiments on ,alexis ,st4 ,martin4 ,these showed that fresh raw oysters required two hours and fifty-five minutes to digest1 and stewed fresh oysters three and a half hours for digestion2 against one hour for boiled tripe1 and three hours for roast or boiled beef or mutton40 ,the general impression among the people is1 that raw oysters digest almost as soon as they become of the same temperature of the stomach4 ,,cooked ,,oysters4 ,stewed ,oysters4--,boil half a pint of milk2 add to it eleven good-sized oysters1 a walnut of butter1 a dash of salt and of pepper4 ,allow the milk to boil up just once1 and serve4 ,the average cook puts the oysters on first1 and after they boil cold milk is added4 ,when the milk boils1 the stew is served4 ,the result of such treatment of the oyster causes it to shrivel so that it is hardly recognizable1 and a good-sized oyster becomes a mere sprat4 ,from this process of cooking originated the ancient moth-eaten jokes about church-fair stews4 ,cooked as in the foregoing recipe1 the oyster retains its plump characteristics4 ,philadelphia ,fried ,oysters4--,the author originally published this recipe in the ,new ,york 8,evening ,sun0 by request4 ,the average ,new ,yorker may call the ,city of ,brotherly ,love a sleepy sort of a place1 but it is wide enough awake gastronomically4 ,it has within its city limits cooks who prepare fried oysters that fairly melt in one's mouth4 ,they are so delicate that there is not a pang of dyspepsia in a whole winter's supply of the toothsome dainties4 ,the reputation of ,finneli's ,philadelphia fried oysters extends from ,maine to ,california2 and immense sums have been offered for the recipe1 but its owner would not sell his secret at any price4 ,beat up three eggs thoroughly2 add half a pint of oyster-juice1 a pepper-spoonful of cayenne1 a saltspoonful of black pepper1 a tablespoonful of salt1 and a teaspoonful of ,english mustard4 ,work the mixture to a batter1 and gradually add a gill of oil4 ,now comes the more particular part of the formula4 ,cover a board or part of a table with a layer of cracker-crumbs half an inch deep4 ,drain fifty oysters free from liquid1 place them on the cracker-crumbs1 and dredge over them more cracker-crumbs4 ,see to it that one oyster is not on top of another4 ,pick up each oyster by its beard1 and dip it in the batter4 ,have ready a quantity of bread-crumbs grated from the white part of stale bread2 spread this out on the table1 and after the oysters have been dipped in the batter lay them carefully on the bread-crumbs two inches apart4 ,after they are all spread out1 turn them over neatly1 which will bread-crumb the other side4 ,dip them in the batter again by taking hold of the beard1 and again spread them out on the bread-crumbs4 ,under no circumstances place one oyster on top of another1 or in any way press them together2 this would make them heavy4 ,when the fat is so hot that the smoke from it would light a match1 then fry them by again taking hold of the beard1 one at a time1 and dropping them into the fat4 ,when they are dark brown1 take them up1 and strew over them a quantity of salt4 ,the secret is in carefully handling the oyster after it has been breaded4 ,how differently ,new ,york restaurants serve fried oysters6 ,in almost every eating place in the city1 one sees piles of oysters covered with a batter that plainly shows the cook purposely pressed them between his hands4 ,when served they look more like liver-pads than human food4 ,nothing short of a human ostrich could possibly digest them4 ,the ,philadelphia oyster1 however1 is a culinary poem4 ,curry of ,oysters4--,put an ounce of butter in a pan2 add to it a teaspoon of curry-powder1 and water enough to prevent burning4 ,put fifteen oysters in just water enough to cover them1 simmer three minutes1 and drain2 thicken the broth with a teaspoonful of flour1 salt to taste1 stir this into the curry2 add the oysters1 simmer a moment1 and serve with boiled rice4 ,pickled-,oyster ,omelet4--,rinse six spiced or pickled oysters in cold water4 ,divide an ounce of butter into little balls1 and roll them in flour2 put them in a saucepan1 heat gradually1 and whisk to a cream2 add a gill of hot water1 salt and pepper4 ,cut the oysters in two1 and add to the butter4 ,prepare an omelet in the usual manner2 before folding1 add the oysters2 turn out on a hot dish1 and serve4 ,deviled ,oysters on ,toast4--,mix together a heaping saltspoonful of mustard flour1 half a saltspoonful each of white pepper and salt1 and the yolk of one egg4 ,dip six oysters in the paste1 then in fine crumbs1 and broil over a moderate fire4 ,when done1 arrange on toast1 and squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon4 ,pickled ,oysters4--,a few pickled oysters may be served instead of clams during warm weather4 ,scald a quart of oysters a moment1 drain1 and put them in jars4 ,to a pint of oyster liquor1 add half a pint of hot water and half a pint of hot vinegar2 pour over the oysters2 add three cloves1 four whole peppers1 a small bit of mace1 and a slice of lemon1 to each jar4 ,this will be sufficient for two ordinary fruit-jars4 ,scalloped ,oysters4--,put in the bottom of a yellow dish two ounces of sweet butter1 divided into little pieces4 ,add a layer of raw oysters1 and cover them with cracker-dust or bread-crumbs1 and add salt and pepper to taste2 another layer of oysters1 and so on until the dish is full1 the last or top layer to be crumbs1 and between each layer there should be a small amount of butter4 ,moisten the ingredients with a liberal quantity of oyster liquid1 put small butter balls on top of the dish1 and bake a delicate brown color4 ,oysters were formerly baked in a scalloped or shell-shaped dish1 hence the name4 ,oyster ,salad4--,boil two dozen small oysters for five minutes in water enough to cover them2 add a little salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar2 drain and cool4 ,put into a salad-bowl the centre leaves of two heads of cabbage lettuce1 add the oysters whole1 pour over them a mayonnaise2 garnish with oyster-crabs1 hard-boiled eggs1 and1 if liked1 a few anchovies cut into fillets4 ,plain ,fried ,oysters4--,as a rule1 fried oysters are not served as a breakfast dish1 owing to the coating with which they are usually surrounded4 ,served plain1 however1 they are quite acceptable4 ,dry them well in a napkin1 and roll them in a little flour to insure that they are quite dry1 then cook them in a very little hot dripping4 ,miss ,parloa's 8,new ,cook-,book0 says1 8a quart of oysters is enough for a party of ten0 7p4 #aah74 ,there are from twenty to twenty-five oysters in a quart1 rarely more than this4 ,oyster ,toast4--,select fifteen plump oysters2 chop them fine1 and add salt1 pepper1 and a suspicion of nutmeg4 ,beat up the yolks of two eggs with a gill of cream2 whisk this into the simmering oysters4 ,when set1 pour the whole over slices of buttered toast4 ,oyster ,omelet4--,stew six oysters in their own liquor for five minutes2 remove the oysters1 and thicken the liquid with a walnut of butter rolled in flour2 season with salt and cayenne2 whisk this to a cream4 ,chop the oysters1 and add them to the sauce2 simmer until the sauce thickens4 ,beat up four eggs lightly1 and add a tablespoonful of cream2 turn out into a hot pan1 and fry a light gold-color4 ,before folding the omelet entirely1 place the oysters with part of the sauce within1 and turn it over on a hot dish4 ,the remainder of the sauce should be poured round it4 ,oysters ,broiled4--,rub the bars of a wire broiler with a little sweet butter2 dry twelve large1 plump oysters in a napkin1 and place them on the broiler2 brush a little butter over them1 and broil over a fire free from flame and smoke4 ,when done on both sides1 arrange them neatly on toast2 pour a little well-seasoned melted butter over them1 and serve4 ,do not bread-crumb oysters intend for broiling4 ,tripe with ,oysters4--,tripe1 when properly prepared by a simple process1 is very nutritious and easily digested4 ,cut up half a pound of well-washed tripe2 simmer for three-quarters of an hour in water slightly salted2 take out the tripe2 add to the broth a little butter rolled in flour1 salt and pepper2 add a little more flour if not thick enough4 ,return the tripe and a dozen oysters2 simmer for a few minutes longer1 and serve4 ,oysters en ,brochette4--,select one dozen choice oysters2 plunge them into hot water a second to make them firm 7this process is called blanching71 then drain1 and dip them into melted butter2 arrange them on skewers with alternate layers of neatly sliced bacon2 broil over a moderate fire4 ,when done1 add maitre-d'htel butter to them1 and serve on the skewers4 ,fried ,oysters4--,beat up the yolks of four eggs with three tablespoonfuls of sweet oil1 and season them with a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper2 beat up thoroughly4 ,dry twelve fat oysters on a napkin2 dip them in the egg batter1 then in cracker-dust2 shake off the loose cracker-dust1 dip them again in the egg batter1 and lastly roll them in fine bread-crumbs4 ,fry in very hot fat1 using fat enough to cover them4 ,the oil gives them a nice flavor4 ,oyster and ,canned ,salmon ,pie4--,one pound of best canned salmon1 one pint of solid oysters1 half a pint of oyster liquid2 cover the bottom of the dish with neat pieces of the salmon1 season with salt and pepper and an ounce of butter rolled in flour1 add a few oysters1 and so on until the ingredients are used4 ,pour in the liquid of both1 and cover the top with paste4 ,bake in a moderate oven4 ,there should be liquid enough to have the ingredients moist when served4 ,oyster ,patties4--,roll out a pound of light puff-paste1 half an inch in thickness2 cut it into rounds with a cake-cutter two inches in diameter2 press a small cutter one inch in diameter1 on each round1 one-fourth of an inch deep4 ,place them on a buttered tin1 brush a little beaten egg over them1 and bake in a quick oven4 ,when done1 remove the centre and a little of the inside4 ,scald 7or1 as it is called1 blanch7 three dozen oysters2 drain4 ,put into a saucepan two ounces of butter1 whisk it to a cream2 add a teaspoonful of flour1 stir free from lumps2 add a heaping saltspoonful of salt1 and a pepperspoonful of white pepper2 whisk into it half a pint each of hot cream and the oyster liquor2 allow it to simmer a few minutes and to thicken2 then add the oysters and a 8squeeze0 of lemon-juice2 when hot fill the shells1 and serve4 ,if nutmeg is not objected to1 a little may be used4 ,oysters la ,poulette4--,blanch 7scald7 a dozen oysters in their own liquor2 drain them1 and add to the liquor1 salt1 half an ounce of butter1 the juice of half a lemon1 a gill of cream1 and a teaspoonful of dissolved flour4 ,beat the yolk of one egg1 and add to the sauce4 ,stir until the sauce thickens2 place the oysters on a hot dish1 pour the sauce over them1 add a very little chopped parsley1 and serve4 ,pie of ,oysters and ,scallops4--,take one pint of fresh scallops1 and wash them in cold water2 drain1 and dry them in a napkin4 ,cut a few slices of fat bacon in strips small enough to insert the ends in a larding-needle2 lard the scallops with them1 and dredge them slightly with flour4 ,select one quart of fat oysters2 line a baking-dish with puff-paste2 add the scallops and oysters in layers2 season with salt1 pepper1 and a dash of mace4 ,divide an ounce of butter into little balls1 roll them in flour1 and put them between the layers2 add the oyster liquor4 ,cover with a top crust2 bake forty minutes in a moderate oven4 ,steamed ,oysters4--,wash and scrub the shells thoroughly1 and rinse them off in cold water4 ,put them in a steamer1 large or deep shell down4 ,put the steamer on top of a pot of boiling water2 steam about six minutes1 or until the shells separate4 ,have ready a hot dish containing melted butter seasoned with a dash of ,worcestershire1 lemon-juice1 salt and cayenne4 ,remove them from the steamer with gloved hands1 and pick out the oysters with a flat knife1 saving all the juice possible4 ,dip the oysters in the butter as you open them1 and the number one can eat is surprising4 ,to serve ,steamed ,oysters4--,steam them as in the foregoing recipe4 ,at each guest's place at table have ready little saucers containing a quantity of the hot melted butter4 ,remove the flat shell1 and serve the oyster in the lower shell2 send about six oysters to each guest at a time4 ,roast ,oysters4--,clean the shells thoroughly1 and place them on the coals in an open fire-place1 or remove the top of range1 and put them on the live coals1 until they snap open1 which they will soon do4 ,care must be exercised not to burn fingers4 ,at evening1 young folks like the fun of roasting oysters in the furnace below stairs1 and eating them from the shell as fast as the host can open them4 ,baked ,oysters4--,clean the shells thoroughly1 and fill a dripping-pan with them1 deep shell down4 ,look at them after ten minutes4 ,if the shells are all opened1 they are cooked enough4 ,melted butter1 nicely seasoned1 is the only sauce to serve with them4 ,,clams4 ,little-,neck ,clams4--,from the first of ,september until the first of ,may in the following year1 the clam--which is richer in nutrition than the oyster--is as meek and as gentle as a clam can be4 ,yet it submits to all sorts of indignities from the oyster1 and has never been known to talk back during the period mentioned4 ,after the first of ,may1 however1 its manner changes1 and it assumes metropolitan airs4 ,it lords it over the oyster as a bantam struts around a helpless foe2 and it plainly intimates to the oyster that moving-day was invented to celebrate its departure4 ,after ,may #a1 the clam must be recognized as the avant-coureur of all dainty feasts4 ,no summer dinner or supper of any pretensions is considered complete without the small clam4 ,all the small clams in market are supposed to come from ,little ,neck1 ,long ,island4 ,not one-quarter of the supply comes from this locality4 ,soft ,clams in ,chafing-,dish4--,select a dozen large ,guilford clams1 wash them thoroughly1 and plunge them into boiling water for a moment4 ,drain and open them1 and use the round plump part only4 ,put in a chafing-dish a pat of butter1 and when quite hot add a dash of flour1 and cayenne to suit the taste2 add the clams1 and when they are slightly cooked add a gill of light sherry4 ,cover the dish1 and allow it to simmer five minutes4 ,have ready three slices of toast1 put four clams upon each slice1 add a little of the hot sherry1 and serve4 ,stewed ,little-,neck ,clams4--,get two dozen freshly opened1 very small clams4 ,boil a pint of milk1 a dash of white pepper1 and a small pat of butter4 ,now add the clams4 ,let them come to a boil1 and serve4 ,longer boiling will make the clams almost indigestible4 ,soft ,clams4--,select a dozen soft-shell clams2 wash them well2 remove the shells2 trim off the tough neck2 place each clam on a half-shell1 and add to each half a teaspoonful of finely-chopped bacon1 a little cayenne1 a very small bit of onion1 and a pat of butter rolled in flour2 strew over the top a little grated ,parmesan cheese1 and bake to a delicate brown4 ,cracker-crumbs may be used instead of the cheese if preferred4 ,soft-,shell ,clams1 ,scalloped4--,purchase a dozen large soft clams in the shell1 and three dozen opened clams4 ,ask the dealer to open the first dozen1 care being used not to injure the shells1 which are to be used in cooking the clams4 ,clean the shells well1 and put two soft clams on each half-shell2 add to each a dash of white pepper and half a teaspoonful of minced celery4 ,cut a slice of fat bacon into the smallest dice1 add four of these to each shell1 strew over the top a thin layer of cracker-dust1 place a pat of table butter on top1 and bake in the oven until brown4 ,they are delightful when properly prepared4 ,clam ,toast4--,chop up two dozen small clams into fine pieces2 simmer for thirty minutes in hot water enough to cover them4 ,beat up the yolks of two eggs2 add a little cayenne and a gill of warmed milk2 dissolve half a teaspoonful of flour in a little cold milk2 simmer all together2 pour over buttered toast1 and serve4 ,clam ,broth4--,procure three dozen ,little-,neck clams in the shell2 wash them well in cold water2 put them in a saucepan1 cover with a quart of hot water2 boil fifteen minutes2 drain2 remove the shells2 chop up the clams1 and add them to the hot broth with a pat of butter2 salt if necessary1 and add a little cayenne2 boil ten minutes1 pour into a soup-tureen1 add a slice of toast1 and send to table4 ,this is the mode adopted when we do not have a clam-opener in the house4 ,raw1 freshly opened clams should be chopped fine and prepared in the manner above described4 ,the large clams are better for chowders than for stews and broth4 ,clam ,fritters4--,chop medium fine twenty-five large quahaugs1 or seventy-five ,little ,necks4 ,to a pint of flour add the beaten yolks of three eggs1 half a teaspoonful of salt1 a teaspoonful of lemon-juice1 a dash of cayenne1 and an ounce of melted butter4 ,mix well1 and make a batter by adding about a gill of milk4 ,add the clams1 and if the batter is too thick add a little of the clam broth4 ,to make them light1 beat the mixture well2 drop spoonfuls in hot fat1 and fry brown1 as you would doughnuts4 ,fried ,soft ,clams4--,select half a dozen of large ,guilford clams4 ,remove the shells1 and trim off the dark tough parts4 ,cut into dice a quarter of a pound of salt pork1 and fry it4 ,in the pork-fat fry the clams1 but first dredge them with flour4 ,serve with a slice of broiled or fried fat pork4 ,,crabs4 ,hard-shell ,crabs4--,the common blue crab is the species of the crab family which we are most familiar with4 ,we remember how rapidly they darted away from us when we pointed the net towards them1 when on our summer vacation4 ,we also have vivid recollections of their anxiety to shake hands with us when in captivity4 ,hard crabs are to be had during almost the entire season1 and the average price asked for them is #c4jj per hundred4 ,those found in market in winter were raked out of the mud1 where they had buried themselves until the advent of warm weather4 ,select a dozen hard crabs1 and rinse them well in fresh water4 ,have ready a kettle two-thirds full of boiling water1 slightly salted2 plunge them into it1 and boil them for about twelve minutes2 drain1 and when cool put them in the ice-box to become cold4 ,after the theatre1 return home for supper1 instead of patronizing the restaurant1 and serve the crabs with sandwiches of buttered bread4 ,a light sauterne may be served with them1 if not objected to4 ,crab ,patties1 ,cream ,sauce4--,roll out a pound of light puff-paste1 half an inch in thickness4 ,cut it into rounds with a cake-cutter two inches in diameter4 ,press a small cutter one inch in diameter1 on each round1 one-fourth of an inch deep4 ,place them on a buttered tin1 brush a little beaten egg over them1 and bake in a quick oven4 ,when done1 remove the centre1 and a little of the inside4 ,put into a saucepan half an ounce of butter1 half an onion minced1 half a pound of minced raw veal1 and a small carrot shredded4 ,toss about for two or three minutes to fry1 but not to color2 then add two tablespoonfuls of flour4 ,mix it well with the other ingredients1 and add three pints of hot water1 a pint of boiling cream1 half a teaspoonful of salt1 and a saltspoonful of white pepper4 ,simmer one hour1 and strain into a saucepan4 ,add to each pint of it half a gill of warm cream4 ,place back on range again1 and simmer until reduced enough to coat the spoon1 then strain into a crock1 and whisk until it is cold4 ,this is done to prevent the formation of a thick top4 ,at this season of the year this is an excellent sauce to have on hand for patties1 white fish sauces1 and also for meat sauces4 ,when wanted for patties1 melt an ounce of butter4 ,while whisking it1 gradually add a pint of the sauce4 ,mix it with a quart of prepared crab-meat1 obtainable at the grocer's4 ,when hot1 fill the shells with it4 ,soft-shell ,crabs4--,when the blue crab is desirous of increasing his growth1 he sheds his shell1 and for a short period is perfectly helpless4 ,the male usually retires to a secluded spot out of the reach of eels and other enemies1 but the female soft shell is protected by a male companion whose shell is hard4 ,at ,sheepshead ,bay these are called elopers or double crabs4 ,as the tide changes1 the soft shell begins to harden1 when it is called 8paper-shell10 shedder1 or feeler4 ,before reaching its normal condition1 the crab is called a buckler1 and is only used as bait4 ,the ,care of ,soft ,crabs4--,soft crabs require delicate handling and much care4 ,they deteriorate rapidly after leaving the water1 and are often killed in transit by the sudden jarring of the train4 ,if a little care is exercised1 they may be kept alive from six to ten days4 ,first select vigorous crabs1 remove them from the crate1 and give them a bath in water slightly salted4 ,clean the crate thoroughly1 renew or wash the seaweed which accompanies them4 ,strew over the bottom of the crate a layer of the seaweed1 and place the crabs in the crate in layers1 faces upward with side spines touching each other1 and alternated with layers of seaweed4 ,when the crate is full1 cover it with more seaweed1 sprinkle salt water over all1 and set the crate in a dark1 cool place4 ,sprinkle salt water over them from day to day1 and renew the bath and fresh sea-tangle about every other day4 ,treated this way1 they will keep in the hottest weather4 ,one of the principal objects in covering them with seaweed is to keep the light from them4 ,sudden flashes of lightning1 if seen by them1 would frighten them to death4 ,their sensitive organization cannot even stand the rumbling of thunder1 and they should be stored away where they cannot hear it distinctly4 ,the only care required in cleaning them for the table is to remove the feathery gill-like formations under the side spines1 and the sand-pouch4 ,soft crabs are too delicate morsels to cover with batter4 ,crabs1 ,soft-shell4--,these should be cooked as soon as possible after being caught1 as their flavor rapidly deteriorates after being exposed to the air4 ,select crabs as lively as possible2 remove the feathery substance under the pointed sides of the shells2 rinse them in cold water2 drain2 season with salt and pepper2 dredge them in flour1 and fry in hot fat4 ,many serve them rolled in eggs and cracker-dust2 but thus they are not as good4 ,crab ,croquettes4--,take one pound of crab-meat2 gently press out the juice1 and put it in a bowl with a tablespoonful of fine crumbs1 half a teaspoonful of salt1 half a saltspoonful of pepper1 a dash of anchovy essence1 the yolks of two eggs1 and a very little cold water4 ,if the eggs are not enough to make it the proper consistency1 bind the ingredients together1 and place on ice until wanted2 then work into corks or cone-shaped forms1 dip them in beaten egg1 then in crumbs1 and fry in hot fat4 ,crab ,patties1 la ,bechamel4--,prepare the shells the same as for oyster patties 7which see74 ,put into a saucepan half an ounce of butter1 half a medium-sized onion minced1 half a pound of minced raw veal1 one small carrot shredded2 toss about for two minutes to fry1 but not to color2 add two tablespoonfuls of flour1 stir it about with the vegetables2 then add three pints of hot water1 or if convenient use hot soup-stock instead2 add a pint of boiling cream4 ,season with half a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of white pepper4 ,simmer one hour1 and strain into a saucepan4 ,add to each pint of sauce half a wineglassful of cream4 ,simmer until reduced enough to coat a spoon2 strain it again into a crock1 and whisk it until cold1 to prevent a thick top from forming4 ,when wanted for patties1 or any thing else1 boil one pint of it with an ounce of butter1 whisking it thoroughly4 ,prepare a quart of solid crab-meat1 either picked from the shells or purchased already prepared2 add it to a pint of the sauce2 strew in a few shredded mushrooms3 fill the crab-shells with this1 and serve4 ,on fast-days1 omit veal and stock from meats1 and use milk instead4 ,this very excellent sauce was named after the ,marquis de ,bechamel1 a worthless court-lounger and steward under ,louis ,,xiv4 ,why his unsavory memory has been perpetuated by a gastronomic monument of worth1 is one of those inexplicable historical facts that students of the art of cookery are continually stumbling upon4 ,the close observer will not fail1 however1 to discover that nearly all dishes named after old ,french celebrities were stolen bodily from old ,venetian and ,provenal books of cookery1 and were re-baptized after some of the most notorious profligates of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries4 ,many of these old cook-books1 like 8,opusculum de ,obsoniis de ,honesta ,voluptate10 a volume printed at ,venice1 #adge 7the first cookery-book published71 and others1 contain recipes almost identical with ,french cookery of the past few centuries4 ,crabs1 l',amricaine4--,pick out the meat from the shells of four dozen boiled hard-shell crabs2 squeeze out the water gently2 put the meat in a bowl1 and add the yolks of two raw eggs1 salt1 cayenne1 and a very little chopped parsley1 and two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs2 roll the mixture into small balls or cakes2 dip in egg batter1 roll in cracker-crumbs1 and fry to a delicate brown4 ,they may be served plain or with tomato sauce4 ,crabs1 ,deviled4--,pick out the meat of four dozen boiled hard-shell crabs1 put it into a bowl1 and add a half-pint of mayonnaise4 ,mix carefully with your hand2 wash a dozen of the shells1 put a little of the mixture into each2 grate a loaf of dry bread1 season a pint of it with salt and pepper1 sprinkle it over the crabs evenly2 make twelve little balls of butter about the size of hickory-nuts2 put one on top of each crab1 and bake in a quick oven4 ,,scallops4 ,the scallop-shell is familiar to even the children who have visited the seashore1 and the novice wonders why so small a tidbit should require so large a shell4 ,the edible part of the scallop is only the powerful central muscle by which the mollusk opens and closes its shell4 ,the medium-sized scallops are the best4 ,the very large and very white variety are more than likely to have been inflated and bleached by the aid of saleratus4 ,scallop-shells were extensively used in ancient cookery1 and gave to various dishes the prefix 8scalloped40 ,scallop ,broth4--,the peculiar flavor of scallops is quite attractive to the convalescent1 and a broth made from them is nourishing2 but care should be exercised in selecting the shell-fish4 ,to improve their appearance1 shippers add quantities of saleratus to the scallops1 which has the effect of bleaching them1 and increasing their size3 this custom may please the dealers1 but not consumers4 ,select medium-sized scallops of a natural creamy color1 wash them1 and cut them into small pieces4 ,to half a pint of these1 add half a pint of warm water and half a pint of milk1 a 8pea0 of butter1 and a pinch of salt2 simmer for twenty minutes2 strain and serve4 ,a pint of milk and no water may be used if the patient desires it4 ,small ,patties of ,scallops4--,wash a pint of scallops1 drain1 cut them up1 and scald them2 then put them in just milk enough to prevent burning4 ,add salt and white pepper1 simmer until quite tender1 and thicken with half a teaspoonful of flour dissolved in cold water4 ,pour this mixture in small patty-shells 7see recipe for oyster patties71 and serve after the soup and before the fish1 or as an entre4 ,fried ,scallops4--,rinse a pint of scallops in cold water slightly salted1 then dry them in a napkin1 and dredge them slightly with flour4 ,fry them in pork-fat4 ,egg batter and crumbs are not recommended4 ,scallops en ,brochette4--,drain twenty-four medium-sized scallops in a napkin4 ,parboil them a moment4 ,when cool arrange them on four skewers1 six on each1 alternated with thin slices of bacon the size of the scallops in width4 ,brush over the scallops a little melted butter1 and broil4 ,when done1 serve with tufts of watercresses and lemon4 ,stewed ,scallops4--,scald fifteen scallops1 and put them into a stewpan with half a pint of boiling milk1 a dash of cayenne1 and a saltspoonful of salt4 ,just before serving1 add very little table butter4 ,,mussels4 ,the ,mussel is called the poor man's oyster2 but why the poor should have a monopoly of this very useful shellfish1 the writer is at a loss to comprehend4 ,during warm weather the spiced mussel is a treat3 it may have the honor of ushering in a family dinner instead of the clam1 and at collations and suppers it should be welcome4 ,as they may be purchased at from eighteen to twenty-five cents per quart1 it is a waste of time to pickle them at home1 unless living at the seashore4 ,,the ,,lobster4 ,remarks on the ,lobster4--,it takes a lobster about five years to arrive at maturity1 or over ten inches in length4 ,the spawning season depends upon the temperature of the water4 ,along the ,sound1 the season begins in ,june1 and ends in ,september4 ,the ,season for ,lobster4--,lobsters are at their best before the spawning season4 ,they are then filled with roe1 or coral as the red spawn is called by some4 ,this is a great delicacy1 and is highly esteemed by epicures4 ,after the spawning season1 which is late in the summer1 they are in very poor condition1 and should not be offered for sale until cool weather4 ,the green part in the body of the lobster is called the tom-alley by ,new-,england folks4 ,it is excellent eating4 ,the external spawn adhering to the tail of the female lobster1 when not highly developed1 is edible1 and is used in garnishing and making lobster butter1 paste1 and cardinal-fish sauces4 ,it is a curious fact1 that the lobster changes or re-makes a shell from eight to ten times the first year1 five to seven the second1 three to four the third1 and from two to three the fourth year4 ,so says ,professor ,g4 ,o4 ,sars of ,norway1 about the ,european lobster1 whose habits agree more or less closely with those of the ,american lobster4 ,soft-shell ,lobster not edible4--,after the fifth year the change of shell is only annual4 ,a soft-shell or shedder lobster1 unlike the soft-shell crab1 is not edible1 and if eaten is likely to produce ill effects4 ,in a soft condition the lobster itself is sick1 and is therefore unfit for food4 ,selecting ,lobsters4--,always select a firm shell1 of a deep dark-green color4 ,light-colored1 thin-shelled lobsters are likely to be lean and poor4 ,when plunged into the boiling water1 the joints contract1 and the tail draws under1 provided the lobster was alive at the time of immersion4 ,if dead when boiled1 the tendons are relaxed1 the claws hang loosely1 the tail will not possess a spring-like tenacity when straightened out4 ,select the former1 and reject the latter4 ,value of the ,lobster as ,food4--,according to ,professor ,atwater of ,middletown1 ,conn41 the nutritive value of the flesh of the lobster1 compared with beef as a standard and reckoned at #ajj1 is #fa to #ig4 ,forty per cent of the lobster is edible1 the remainder is shell and waste4 ,buckland says1 8,that phosphorus exists in large quantities1 may be easily proved4 ,a lobster in hot weather1 when it ceases to be fresh1 assumes a highly phosphorescent appearance when seen in the dark1 equal if not superior to that of a glow-worm or luminous centipede4 ,this light increases by friction4444 ,the presence of phosphorus in the lobster is of great importance to the consumers of these sea luxuries4 ,there is no substance which conveys phosphorus so readily into the human system in an agreeable form1 and which the system so readily and quickly assimilates1 as the flesh of crabs and lobsters40 ,broiled ,lobster4--,select alive and active lobster not less than ten and a half inches long4 7,if below this measurement1 the dealer should be arrested for breaking the law which protects the lobster47 ,split it in two lengthwise1 which instantly kills it4 ,remove the entrail through the fleshy part of the tail1 and the crop or stomach near the head4 ,this done1 there are two ways of preparing it for table4 ,one is as follows3-- ,remove the flesh from the tail1 and brush over it a little melted butter or olive-oil2 broil it gently1 but not too well done4 ,heat the shell1 put the meat back in the shell again1 add more butter1 salt1 pepper1 and serve on hot plates4 ,the body parts may be boiled1 and furnish dainty pickings for a late meal4 ,the other way is that which is generally adopted by restaurants4 ,brush a little butter over the entire half of the green lobster2 broil the shell side thoroughly first1 then turn1 and broil the other4 ,serve with maitre-d'htel sauce4 ,a lobster that has once been boiled and then broiled is so thoroughly over-cooked as to be very indigestible4 ,lobster ,croquettes1 with ,pease4--,boil one-half pint of milk1 thicken it with a tablespoonful of flour1 and let it become cold4 ,mince the meat of a one-pound can of lobster1 or one pound of fresh lobster2 when very fine1 add a saltspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of white pepper4 ,moisten the lobster mince with the thickened milk1 and work the whole to a paste2 add very little bread-crumb if too thin2 let it become amalgamated over the range1 and place in the ice-box until wanted2 then shape it into neat rolls or cones2 dip them in egg and crumbs1 and fry in plenty of hot fat4 ,arrange the forms neatly on a dish1 put round them a border of pease1 and serve4 ,lobsters en ,brochette4--,instead of boiling the lobster-tails1 cut them in pieces1 and arrange these on small skewers1 alternated with small pieces of bacon2 brush melted butter over them1 and either broil or bake them2 serve with sauce tartare 7which see on p4 #hd74 ,deviled ,lobster4--,take two live lobsters1 remove the tails1 split them in two1 and make several incisions in them crosswise4 ,mix together half a teaspoonful of salt1 a saltspoonful each of dry mustard and curry1 and half a saltspoonful of white pepper1 add a tablespoonful of oil2 mix1 spread it over the lobsters1 and broil them4 ,when done1 return to the shells1 which should have been kept hot for the purpose2 pour a little melted butter over them1 and serve4 ,stewed ,lobster1 la ,crole4--,remove the tail part of the meat from three green lobsters2 split them in two lengthwise2 remove the thread-like intestine4 ,melt an ounce of butter in a deep frying-pan2 add the lobster2 toss it for a few minutes in the butter2 add salt and pepper and half a pint of hot water2 cover1 and simmer three-quarters of an hour2 drain1 and reduce the water one-half by rapid boiling4 ,put in a saucepan half an ounce of butter and a tablespoonful of minced onion2 fry brown1 and add three peeled and sliced tomatoes1 one sweet pepper1 four okra pods cut small1 and half a teaspoonful of salt4 ,allow these to cook fifteen minutes1 add the broth1 and simmer until reduced to a pulp2 rub through a sieve2 put this puree on a hot dish1 place the lobster on top1 add a little lemon-juice1 and serve4 ,curry of ,lobster4--,remove the meat from two boiled lobsters1 cut it into neat pieces2 take all green fat and coral1 and set them aside2 mix the green fat with a heaping spoonful of curry-powder4 ,squeeze out the juice of three limes1 and add to it half a teaspoonful of powdered sugar4 ,put into a frying-pan an ounce of butter2 when creamed add a teaspoonful of minced onion browned a little2 now add the mixed curry-powder2 dissolve a teaspoonful of rice-flour in cold water1 add this to a pint of hot water or soup-stock1 simmer until thick2 now add the lobster1 and simmer twenty minutes longer4 ,wash and dry the coral1 separate it4 ,prepare a border of rice on a dish1 and over it sprinkle the coral and eggs 7if any72 pour the curry in the centre1 and serve4 ,lobster ,salad4--,take two live hen 7female7 lobsters2 boil them thirty minutes2 drain4 ,when cold1 break them apart2 crack the claws1 and if the tail-fins are covered with eggs remove them carefully4 ,take out the sand-pouch found near the head2 split the fleshy part of the tail in two lengthwise1 remove the small long entrail found therein4 ,adhering to the body-shell may be found a layer of creamy fat2 save this1 and also the green fat in the body of the lobster 7called tom-alley by ,new-,englanders71 and the coral4 ,if celery is used1 tear the lobster into shreds with forks2 if lettuce1 cut the lobster into half-inch pieces4 ,place the salad herb in a bowl1 add the lobster and the fat1 and pour over it a rich mayonnaise2 garnish with the claws and heads1 tufts of green1 hard-boiled eggs1 etc4 ,the lobster eggs may be separated1 and sprinkled over the mayonnaise4 ,the coral is used for coloring mayonnaise1 and also butter1 which is then used in decorating salmon and other dark fish used in salads4 ,,the ,,oyster ,,crab4 ,the little crab found in the oyster is not1 as commonly supposed by two-thirds of the oyster-eating community to be1 the young of the blue crab2 but it is a distinct species4 ,it is a messmate of and caterer to the wants of the oyster1 being therefore a benefit instead of a detriment to the latter4 ,in return for the oyster's kindness in protecting it against its enemies1 the little crab catches and crushes food which in its entire state could not be taken by the oyster4 ,a singular thing in connection with them is1 that all found inside of the oyster are females4 ,the male of the same variety is found in the neighborhood1 but its shell is firm4 ,oyster-crabs are found at the grocer's1 put up in half-pint bottles1 which retail from #fj to #ge cents each4 ,at the markets they are sold at #b4ej per quart4 ,to ,serve ,oyster ,crabs4--,put on a small saucer a crisp but dry leaf of lettuce1 and put in the centre of each leaf a scant tablespoonful of the oyster crabs4 ,add a scant teaspoonful of mayonnaise to each1 and serve as a whet before a ladies' collation1 or at an afternoon luncheon4 ,oyster-,crab ,omelet4--,this is a most tempting dish4 ,roll an ounce of butter into little balls1 dredge these with flour1 put them in a pan1 and when they begin to melt whisk them2 do not let it brown2 add a gill of hot water1 and simmer until thick2 now add half a pint of oyster crabs1 salt1 and a pinch of cayenne4 ,beat up four eggs thoroughly1 and make them into an omelet2 just before folding1 add the crabs1 and serve4 ,oyster-,crab ,sauce4--,add a tablespoonful of oyster-crabs to half a pint of drawn butter1 sauce hollandaise1 or in fact any white or cream fish-sauce1 and serve with boiled fish4 ,,acknowledgment4 ,the writer is deeply indebted to ,prof4 ,george ,brown ,goode's compilation and reports of the 8,fishery ,industries of the ,united ,states10 for much of the natural history of fish and shell embodied in this work4 ,,shrimps4 ,the common shrimp1 which is caught in immense quantities along our coast all summer1 and used for bait1 is a dainty which summer residents should not neglect4 ,when a shrimp salad is wanted1 however1 the servant is sent to the nearest grocer for a can of ,southern shrimp1 and the delicious morsel at their very door is used to feed the fishes4 ,the trouble seems to be1 that servants dislike the trouble of picking them out of their transparent shells4 ,summer hotels would buy the native shrimp if fishermen would take the trouble of offering them4 ,no more appetizing or appropriate garnish for lobster salads and for portions of boiled fish can be imagined than the little home shrimp properly boiled4 ,a plunge into the hot water is about all the cooking they need4 ,market ,price of ,shrimps4--,cooked and shelled shrimps are to be had in our markets during warm weather1 for from thirty to fifty cents per quart4 ,canned shrimps retail for from thirty to forty cents per can1 and #c4ej per dozen4 ,rinse them in fresh water before using them4 ,shrimp ,omelet4--,toss half a pint of canned or fresh shrimps in a little hot butter for a moment2 add a little salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of tomato sauce4 ,prepare the omelet1 and just before folding add the shrimps1 and serve4 ,shrimp ,sauce4--,cut up the shrimps into halves1 add them to a creamy fish sauce of any kind2 mix and serve4 ,,prawns4 ,scientifically there is a difference between the prawn and the shrimp2 but it need not be considered by the housewife1 except that the prawn1 that comes to this market from the ,south already cooked and shelled1 is larger than the shrimp1 and a little stronger flavored4 ,the shrimps and prawns are found in salt and brackish water1 while the crayfish are inhabitants of fresh water4 ,curry of ,prawns4--,prawns are at their best served as a curry4 ,boil two quarts of live prawns thirty minutes1 drain when slightly cooled1 break away the shells1 and set them aside4 ,put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan2 when very hot add a clove of garlic and one sliced apple2 brown slightly1 remove the garlic1 and add a dessertspoonful of curry-powder mixed with a gill of water2 stir1 and add half a pint of soup-stock and half a teaspoonful of flour2 now add the prawns1 and the juice of half a lemon in which a lump of sugar has been dissolved4 ,pour out on a hot dish1 and send to table with rice croquettes4 ,prawns1 ,deviled1 en ,coquille4--,simmer a quart of prawns fifteen minutes in water flavored with a little sharp vinegar2 drain1 and cut them very fine4 ,add two ounces of butter1 a gill of water1 salt and pepper1 the yolks of two eggs1 and bread-crumbs to absorb the moisture4 ,mix to a paste4 ,partly fill the shells1 cover with crumbs1 add a small pat of butter to each1 and bake to a delicate brown4 ,prawns1 ,saut1 la ,marengo4--,wash one pint of 8shelled0 prawns1 simmer them twenty minutes1 drain1 and toss them a moment in a little hot olive-oil2 remove them1 add a sprig of parsley1 half a dozen button mushrooms1 a gill of hot water1 salt and pepper1 and thicken with a little flour4 ,put the prawns on a dish1 pour the sauce over them1 garnish with fried eggs and slices of tomatoes fried4 ,prawn ,salad4--,take one quart of prawns and one quart and a pint of cut celery2 put the celery in a bowl2 add the prawns2 garnish neatly1 and serve with a mayonnaise4 ,,crayfish4 ,the crayfish are inhabitants of fresh-water streams2 and they bear a striking resemblance to the lobster in appearance1 spawning habits1 shedding their shell1 etc4 ,their season begins early in the spring1 and lasts until cold weather4 ,during a bountiful supply of these delicious shell-fish1 large quantities are packed away in ice-houses for winter use1 when there is a big demand for them from caterers who use them as garnishment1 and for salads and sauces4 ,they cost from three to four dollars per hundred in the ,new-,york markets4 ,those that come from ,milwaukee are highly esteemed2 and1 as they are already cooked1 they may be used at luncheon1 and on fast-days as salads4 ,a crayfish salad is an enjoyable dish4 ,crayfish ,omelet4--,rinse half a pint of crayfish tails in salted water1 and drain them2 then split each tail in two lengthwise1 and remove the thread-like intestine found therein4 ,toss them about a moment in a little butter and tablespoonful of broth or gravy2 season with a dash of cayenne4 ,make a four-egg omelet1 and just before folding add the crayfish4 ,,salmon4 ,salmon ,steak4--,put into fast boiling water1 salted1 a slice of fresh salmon1 and boil for five minutes quite rapidly2 then set on back of the range where it will simmer for fifteen minutes longer4 ,drain1 and place it on a napkin surrounded with a border of parsley4 ,on the two ends of the platter place slices of lemon4 ,serve with a sauce in a sauce-boat4 ,drawn butter with a few prawns or shrimps cut up in it is a nice sauce for salmon4 ,canned ,salmon4--,the canning of salmon at the source of supply has been of lasting benefit to mankind1 for we are now able to procure a pound of salmon in any quarter of the globe for a reasonable sum4 ,canned salmon has one advantage over the fresh fish3 it does not deteriorate1 and lose its flavor4 ,those who have tried it say they do not get surfeited with canned salmon1 although many of the same individuals dislike the fresh salmon owing to its richness1 and on this account rarely eat it4 ,salmon ,patties4--,this is a very nice way of serving salmon at luncheon4 ,open a pound can of salmon1 drain1 add to the small amount of salmon liquid sufficient water to make a gill1 season it with salt and pepper1 and1 if on hand1 add a little anchovy paste4 ,beat up the yolks of two eggs with half a teaspoonful of flour dissolved in a little cold water or milk3 add the gill of water1 place it on the range to become hot and thick1 whisking it meanwhile2 break the salmon into pieces1 and add to the sauce4 ,when quite hot1 fill the patty shells with it1 and serve4 ,a very rich sauce may be made by the addition of butter and cream4 ,the patty shells are made as follows3 ,roll out some very light puff-paste1 half an inch thick2 stamp it in rounds with a three-inch cutter1 press a small cutter in the middle of each round to the depth of quarter of an inch2 put the rounds on a buttered tin1 brush a little beaten egg over them1 and bake in a quick oven4 ,when done1 remove the centre1 scoop out a little of the inside1 and the shells are ready for the mixture4 ,salmon ,surprise4--,boil two quarts of potatoes with their jackets on4 ,when done1 peel and mash them with butter and warm milk4 ,arrange a border of potatoes on a flat1 oval dish4 ,in the centre of this put a pound of canned or cold salmon separated into neat-sized pieces1 salt1 pepper1 a very little mace1 and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley2 cover the salmon with a layer of raw oysters2 add a little oyster-liquor1 cover the oysters with a thin smooth layer of mashed potato1 and brush the beaten yolk of egg over all4 ,then make a small hole in the centre1 and place the dish in an oven hot enough to brown the outside quickly4 ,salmon la ,crole4--,scald and put three large tomatoes to simmer in very little water1 until tender3 chop up very fine a sweet ,spanish pepper and quarter of an onion2 fry these in a little bacon fat2 add the tomato1 salt1 and little white pepper4 ,simmer until reduced to a pulp4 ,open a pound can of salmon2 set the can in a saucepan half full of hot water1 turn the salmon out on a dish4 ,when it is quite hot1 pour the pulp over it1 and serve4 ,canned tomatoes may be used instead of fresh tomatoes4 ,salmon ,pie4--,cut up four boiled potatoes into neat pieces2 cut half a pound of boiled salt pork into dice2 divide a pound of canned salmon into symmetrical pieces2 roll out quarter of a pound of puff-paste1 cut it into squares1 and roll each of these into a little ball4 ,arrange these ingredients alternately in a deep yellow dish1 season with salt and pepper1 add hot water or gravy to prevent burning1 cover the top with paste1 make a hole in the centre1 and bake in a moderate oven4 ,salmon in ,jelly4--,take one gallon of clear soup1 and boil it down to a quart4 ,soak a teaspoonful of gelatine in cold water1 and add to the reduced soup to make sure that it will be stiff when cold4 ,take a two-quart tin mould1 set it on ice1 and pour enough of the liquid in it to cover the bottom4 ,let this become firm4 ,cut into slices1 and then into diamonds1 boiled beets1 white turnips1 and cold boiled tongue2 dip each into the liquid1 and place them in the mould in a very neat and artistic manner2 when they become firm1 spread over them a layer an inch thick1 of cream-mashed potato2 now add a pound of canned salmon1 and pour round the edges and on top the remainder of the reduced soup1 and set the mould in a very cold place to become firm4 ,when wanted1 dip the mould into hot water quickly1 and turn it out4 ,this is an excellent dish for collations1 wedding breakfasts1 etc4 ,the potato must be made rich with butter and milk1 and beaten to a light consistency before being placed in the mould4 ,any other kind of cold fish will answer quite as well as salmon for this and other dishes herein mentioned4 ,salmon ,omelet4--,separate half a pound of canned salmon into flakes1 season with salt and pepper1 a little lemon-juice1 and add a little of the liquid2 heat it a little1 whip up the eggs for an omelet1 prepare it as usual1 and just before completing the fold add the salmon2 then turn it out on a hot dish4 ,salmon1 ,german ,style4--,boil two quarts of sauerkraut2 drain it1 and pile it on a hot dish2 have ready a pound of canned salmon hot2 make a hole in the centre of the kraut1 insert the fish1 simmer and season the salmon liquid1 pour it over the dish1 and serve4 ,salmon l',italienne4--,boil half a pound of macaroni in water slightly salted2 drain4 ,heat a can of salmon in hot water2 turn it out on a dish2 arrange the macaroni round it2 pour over the macaroni the contents of a pound can of tomato-pulp 7hot71 sprinkle over this a little grated ,parmesan cheese1 and serve4 ,salmon la ,hollandaise4--,heat a pound of canned salmon in the original can2 turn it out on a hot dish1 garnish neatly1 and pour over it the following sauce3 ,cream two ounces of butter1 whisk into it the yolks of two beaten eggs1 add a little salt and white pepper1 and half a teaspoonful of strong vinegar2 put the pan in a larger one containing hot water1 whisk it until it thickens1 and just before serving add a little lemon-juice4 ,salmon1 ,hunter's ,style4--,one of the best dishes ,i have ever eaten while hunting was prepared as follows3 ,take three one-pound cans of salmon 7save the liquid71 and divide into neat pieces2 make a dough as for milk biscuits3 divide half of it into little balls2 take one box of sardines2 put a layer of sliced bacon in the bottom of a gallon crock2 add a layer of salmon1 a few dough balls1 two sardines1 salt1 cayenne4 ,continue arranging in alternate layers until the ingredients are all used2 add a wineglassful of vinegar to the salmon liquid1 and if there is not enough add a little water2 cover the top with the remainder of the dough1 and tie one or two thicknesses of white cloth over all4 ,dig a hole deep enough to be lined with mud or stones and to receive the crock2 build a fire in and over it 7the smoke will keep off the mosquitoes74 ,when reduced to coals1 scoop out the ashes and coals from the hole1 cover the cloth with mud1 set the crock in the hole1 and cover up with the hot ashes2 let it remain three hours1 and a more satisfactory dish cannot be imagined4 ,bouillabaisse4--,this celebrated dish was immortalized by ,thackeray4 ,put into a frying-pan a gill of olive-oil1 a clove of garlic minced1 a tablespoonful of chopped onion1 two cloves1 six peppercorns2 when slightly brown1 add one pound of canned salmon and the salmon liquid in the can2 add a little salt1 a bit of bay leaf1 three slices of lemon1 a pint of tomato pulp1 a pinch of curry-powder or saffron1 a gill of ,rhine wine1 with water enough to cover the fish3 simmer twenty minutes4 ,line a deep dish with toast1 remove from the pan all seasoning in sight1 pour the contents of the pan on the toast1 and serve4 ,,codfish4 ,boiled ,codfish1 ,oyster ,sauce4--,the only thing that can be urged against this most excellent fish is its homely name4 ,were it not so cheap1 its good qualities would rapidly find favor at all gastronomic entertainments where palate-pleasing dishes are appreciated4 ,put the fish into boiling water1 slightly salted2 add a few whole cloves and peppers1 and a bit of lemon-peel2 pull gently on the fins1 and when they come out easily the fish is done4 ,arrange neatly on a folded napkin1 garnish1 and serve with oyster sauce4 ,take six oysters to every pound of fish1 and scald them in a half-pint of hot oyster liquor2 take out the oysters1 and add to the liquor1 salt1 pepper1 a bit of mace1 and an ounce of butter2 whip into it a gill of milk1 containing half of a teaspoonful of flour4 ,simmer a moment2 add the oysters1 and send to table in a sauce-boat4 ,a four-pound fish should cook in about forty minutes4 ,codfish ,tongues4--,wash four codfish tongues thoroughly in cold water2 put them on the range in hot water1 slightly salted1 and boil thirty minutes2 drain2 arrange neatly on a folded napkin placed upon a hot dish2 garnish with parsley and slices of lemon1 and send to table with cream sauce4 ,codfish ,steak4--,select a medium-sized fresh codfish1 cut it in steaks crosswise of the fish about an inch and a half thick2 sprinkle a little salt over them1 and let them stand two hours4 ,cut into dice a pound of salt fat pork1 fry out all the fat from them1 and remove the crisp bits of pork2 put the codfish steaks in a pan of corn-meal1 dredge them with it1 and1 when the pork-fat is smoking hot1 fry the steaks in it to a dark brown color on both sides4 ,squeeze over them a little lemon-juice1 add a dash of freshly ground pepper1 and serve with hot1 old-fashioned1 well buttered johnny-cake4 ,new-,england ,codfish ,balls4--,shred the codfish the night before1 and soak it over night2 drain quite dry on towel next day4 ,mash fine one pound of hot boiled potatoes4 ,take an equal amount of codfish1 and divide it very fine4 ,mix both together1 and add the beaten yolks of two eggs1 two ounces of melted butter1 and a saltspoonful of white pepper4 ,now beat the mixture until it is very light1 for upon this process depends the success or failure of the dish4 ,in shaping them together1 do not press them any more than is absolutely necessary4 ,most cooks press them into cakes so hard that it is next to an impossibility to eat them4 ,dredge them lightly with a little flour1 and fry them like doughnuts in smoking hot fat4 ,when properly prepared and cooked they should fairly melt in the mouth1 which they will do if thoroughly beaten and lightly handled4 ,baked ,cod4--,when purchasing a four-pound cod1 ask your fish-dealer to send you three 8codfish-heads20 and as soon as the basket comes into the house1 rub a little salt on the fish1 chop the heads into six pieces each1 and sprinkle a little salt over them4 ,place them in the centre of the baking-pan 7to be used as supports for the fish71 with a gill of water4 ,set the pan in the oven while you prepare the cod4 ,soak in cold water until soft a sufficiency of bread to fill the fish2 drain off the water1 and pound the bread to a paste2 mix with it two tablepoonsfuls of melted butter1 two raw eggs1 a tablespoonful of ,worcestershire sauce1 with salt and pepper to taste4 ,put this stuffing inside the fish1 and sew it up2 place the cod in the pan with two or three pieces of butter on the upper side of the fish1 and baste it frequently2 when it is cooked1 lay the fish on a hot platter1 and garnish with fried oysters if convenient4 ,add a tablespoonful of brown flour to the pan1 a wineglass of claret2 mix1 and strain the gravy into a sauce-boat4 ,time to cook1 one hour4 ,salt ,codfish with ,cream4--,soak one pound and a half of salt codfish over night4 ,next morning set the fish to simmer for about two hours2 drain off the water1 and strip the fish into shreds2 place it in a saucepan with a quart of milk and two ounces of butter2 mix a tablespoonful of flour with two tablespoonfuls of cold milk1 and add to the fish4 ,let the whole come to a boil2 remove the dish from the fire1 beat up one egg to a froth1 add it to the fish1 stir1 and serve4 ,scrod4--,small codfish no larger than our tomcod are called scrod in ,eastern ,massachusetts4 ,after they have been corned over night1 they are broiled and fried4 ,,brook ,,trout4 ,cultivated trout may be purchased at from sixty to seventy-five cents per pound1 and wild trout from twenty-five to thirty-five cents per pound1 after ,april first4 ,there are many house-keepers who will not purchase the latter1 thinking that as they are cheaper1 they cannot be so good as the more expensive trout4 ,cultivated trout are only trout in name and outside appearance1 and no more compare in flavor with the wild trout than chalk does with cheese4 ,they are fattened 7not allowed to feed naturally7 on cheap animal food that destroys all trout flavor2 and they live in artificial streams or ponds1 acquiring a peculiar swampy flavor which is decidedly objectionable4 ,the wild trout lives in clear running streams1 fed from never-ending springs2 here he finds a beautiful supply of food furnished by nature's generous hand1 instead of the refuse of the butcher furnished to his more aristocratic brother4 ,besides being superior in every way1 the wild trout is always cheaper4 ,shippers of trout often pack their speckled beauties in moss1 which injures their flavor materially2 and the housekeeper is obliged to let them stand in cold water1 slightly salted1 to extract the flavor of the moss4 ,this is a good plan to follow1 by the way1 when the trout are frozen1 as nearly all wild trout are in the early spring4 ,brook ,trout1 ,sportsman ,style4--,clean and rinse a quarter-of-a-pound trout in cold spring water2 dry it in a towel4 ,cut half a pound of salt pork into small pieces2 put these into a thoroughly clean frying-pan2 fry out the clear fat1 and remove the small pieces of pork4 ,rub a little fine table-salt in the inside of the fish1 and when the pork-fat is smoking hot1 add the fish to it2 turn it three times before it is done4 ,when nicely browned1 serve it on a hot dish1 and send it to the table without adding condiments of any kind4 ,should you be able to procure fresh butter1 a little may be put on the fish before it is served1 but it must be of the very best quality4 ,broiled ,trout4--,the foregoing is a recipe for cooking trout immediately after catching them4 ,after they are brought to our city markets from distant mountain streams1 however1 they are most toothsome when broiled over a declining fire1 and require a seasoning of salt1 pepper1 and a little lemon-juice mixed with the sweetest of sweet butter4 ,serve with hot plates4 ,brook ,trout1 ,baked4--,trout weighing a pound or over are best when served baked1 though many sportsmen will not listen to this proposition4 ,the outside of a large trout is almost ruined in broiling before the centre of the fish is cooked4 ,do not split the fish down the back4 ,take half a pint of fine grated bread-crumbs1 and soak them in a little milk2 squeeze out the milk2 add two ounces of table butter1 a saltspoonful of salt1 half a saltspoonful of white pepper1 the juice of a quarter of a lemon1 and the slightest sprig of thyme2 add the yolk of one raw egg2 mix2 open the trout just enough to clean it properly2 remove the gills 7leave the heads on71 fill the cavity with the stuffing1 and sew it up carefully4 ,put the fish in a tin1 on top of it place small bits of butter previously rolled in flour1 place it in a good oven1 and bake with the back toward the hottest part of the oven4 ,the length of time it will take to cook properly is from twenty to thirty minutes1 very often a little longer1 for much depends on the temperature of the oven4 ,brook ,trout1 ,boiled4--,to boil trout seems an outrage2 but when one receives a large quantity of them1 and there is danger of their spoiling if not immediately used1 put four small trout properly cleaned into a saucepan1 cover them with claret1 add a slice of lemon1 two cloves1 four whole peppers1 the least bit of mace1 and a heaping saltspoonful of salt4 ,simmer slowly three-quarters of an hour2 remove the saucepan from the range1 and when cold take out the fish1 put them in a dish1 and pour the boiled wine over them4 ,serve at luncheon or collations4 ,the head1 tail1 and fins of trout should not be removed before cooking4 ,,miscellaneous4 ,catfish1 ,fried4--,catfish and waffles is a combination dear to the hearts of ,philadelphians1 and the road-houses near that city are celebrated for cooking them4 ,select the fish already cleaned1 as it is a troublesome job to clean them1 and pick out the white instead of the red catfish2 rub a little salt along the backbone on the inside1 and let the fish stand over night4 ,next day dredge them with corn-meal or flour1 and fry in a little fat2 sprinkle salt and pepper over them before serving4 ,the ,tenderloin ,trout4--,large catfish are caught in ,southern rivers2 and while they are fair eating1 they are not popular with the whites in the vicinity of ,new ,orleans4 ,the restaurant people1 however1 cut the fish into pieces an inch square and about four inches long2 these are dipped in egg1 rolled in crumbs1 and fried and served as tenderloin trout4 ,fricasseed ,eels4--,cut up three pounds of eels into pieces of three inches in length2 put them into a stewpan1 and cover them with ,rhine wine 7or two-thirds water and one-third vinegar72 add fifteen oysters1 two pieces of lemon1 a bouquet of herbs1 one onion quartered1 six cloves1 three stalks celery1 a pinch of cayenne1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,stew the eels one hour2 remove them from the dish2 strain the liquor4 ,put it back into the stewpan with a gill of cream and an ounce of butter rolled in flour2 simmer gently a few minutes1 pour over the fish1 and serve4 ,eel ,patties4--,take three medium-sized eels1 and cut them up into inch pieces4 ,put them in a stewpan1 add salt1 and cover them with cold water4 ,when the water comes to a boil1 take them off the fire1 wash them in cold water1 scrape off any fat that may adhere1 return them to the stewpan with just enough hot water to cover them1 and add a blade of mace1 a bay leaf1 a few whole peppers1 a few sprigs of parsley1 and one lemon cut into slices4 ,stew gently until the fish will separate from the bone2 remove the fish from the broth1 pick it into small pieces1 and set them aside2 reduce the broth a little1 strain1 and thicken with flour and butter4 ,return the fish to the broth1 simmer a moment1 fill your patties1 and serve2 make patty-shells as directed for oyster patties4 ,stewed ,eels1 ,hoboken ,turtle ,club ,style4--,cut into three-inch pieces two pounds of medium-sized cleaned eels4 ,rub the inside of each piece with salt4 ,let stand half an hour1 then parboil them4 ,boil an onion in a quart of milk1 and remove the onion4 ,drain the eels from the water1 and add them to the milk4 ,season with half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 salt and pepper1 and the slightest suspicion of mace4 ,simmer until the flesh falls from the bones4 ,fried eels should be slightly salted before cooking them4 ,do not cover them with batter1 but dredge them with just flour enough to absorb all moisture1 then cover them with boiling fat1 as for doughnut cooking4 ,many ,new ,england families use corn-meal to dredge them with instead of flour4 ,eels en matelotte1 or sailor fashion1 are appreciated by many4 ,cut them into three-inch pieces1 and salt them4 ,fry an onion brown in a little dripping2 add half a pint of broth to the brown onion1 part of a bay leaf1 six broken peppercorns1 four whole cloves1 and a gill of claret4 ,add the eels to this1 and simmer until thoroughly cooked4 ,remove the eels1 put them on a hot dish1 add a teaspoonful of browned flour to the sauce1 strain1 and pour over the eels4 ,pan ,bass1 ,anchovy ,butter4--,during ,february1 ,march1 and the first part of ,april1 there may be found in market a variety of bass which much resembles the ,oswego bass4 ,they come from the ,carolinas and ,virginia1 and are excellent eating4 ,let them stand an hour in salt water1 then drain and wipe dry1 and fry them in tried-out salt-pork fat4 ,serve them with a butter made as follows3 ,mix together a teaspoonful of anchovy paste with a tablespoonful of sweet butter1 and1 if not objected to1 add a few blades of chopped chives4 ,the chive has the flavor peculiar to the onion family1 but in a mild form4 ,it is cultivated by truck gardeners1 and may be found on the ,new ,york vegetable stands as early as ,january4 ,the retail price at the first of the season is ten cents a tuft2 as it becomes more plentiful1 it is offered at five cents4 ,placed in the kitchen1 it grows luxuriantly1--in fact1 it grows faster than it can be used by a small family4 ,this very useful herb should be in the kitchen window of every home where soups and salads are rightly appreciated4 ,the chive grows wild in nearly all of the ,middle and ,eastern ,states1 and the first green spot seen in our parks is more than likely to be chives4 ,cows eat it1 and their milk has a slight garlic flavor4 ,the garlic flavor in milk is decidedly objectionable2 yet the early ,dutch settlers planted the chives in the pastures for the cows to eat1 thereby imparting to the milk this peculiar flavor4 ,fillet of ,flounder1 ,tartar ,sauce4--,cut the flesh from the bone lengthwise1 and then cut each piece into strips an inch wide4 ,dip them in beaten egg4 ,roll them in cracker-crumbs1 and fry in hot fat enough to cover them4 ,this dish appears on our ,french bills-of-fare as filet de sole4 ,serve with sauce tartare4 ,fried ,tomcods4--,these delicate1 sweet-flavored pan-fish are called frost-fish by dealers1 but the fishermen along the ,hudson call them 8,tommies40 ,whatever name they are known by1 they are delicious morsels when fresh caught4 ,clean them without removing the heads1 dry them in a napkin1 and salt their insides1 dredge them with a little flour1 and fry them crisp in hot smoking fat4 ,put the clean fish into a baking-tin4 ,over each fish place a thin slice of bacon1 add salt and pepper1 and bake them twenty minutes in a hot oven4 ,broiled ,salt ,codfish4--,cut half of a small codfish into medium-sized square pieces2 split them in two1 and soak them over night in cold water4 ,drain1 and dry them in a napkin1 next morning4 ,rub a little butter over each piece1 and broil them4 ,place them on a hot platter1 and pour a little melted butter over them4 ,drawn butter is sometimes served with this dish4 ,it should be very smooth looking1 and have a starchy appearance4 ,divide three ounces of butter into little balls4 ,dredge them with flour4 ,put one-fourth of them into a saucepan1 and when they begin to melt1 whisk to a smooth consistency4 ,now add one more of the floured balls1 and whisk thoroughly until incorporated with the first4 ,repeat this process until all are used4 ,when smooth and thick1 stir in a teaspoonful of lemon-juice1 and1 if liked1 a little chopped parsley4 ,broiled ,salt ,mackerel4--8,i like salt mackerel1 but it does not agree with me10 is a remark often heard in nearly all classes of society4 ,many imagine they can eat cured fish with the same degree of recklessness and lack of regard for dietetic laws which they often show in eating more digestible food4 ,they soon discover1 however1 that something is radically wrong2 just where the blame rests1 is a matter they settle to their own satisfaction by declaring that salt mackerel was not intended for civilized people1 because they are unable to eat it without experiencing disagreeable after-effects4 ,salt mackerel is really wholesome food1 but1 like all cured food1 is not so digestible as when fresh3 it is therefore necessary to restore it as near as possible to its original freshness4 ,this is done by a thorough soaking in a liberal quantity of fresh water4 ,there is no danger of the fish becoming too fresh2 if it does1 it is an easy matter to add fresh salt1 which is much more acceptable than condensed brine4 ,in selecting salt mackerel1 examine them carefully4 ,if rusty in appearance reject them1 8for rust in fish1 if ,i am not mistaken1 is as bad as rust in steel or rust in bacon40 ,large fish are likely to be poor and coarse2 a medium-sized or ,no4 #b is the most profitable provided the white or under part of the fish is fat4 ,after soaking thoroughly1 rub a little melted butter or olive-oil over them1 and broil not too close to the fire2 do not cook them enough to dry up all moisture1 as they would then be unpalatable4 ,after broiling1 plunge them into boiling water for a moment to swell them1--this treatment gives the fish the appearance of being fat1--place on a hot plate1 add a little melted butter1 a dash of pepper1 and finally the juice of half a lemon4 ,to avoid the unpleasantness referred to1 drink all liquids first1 before eating a mouthful of the fish2 masticate the food thoroughly and slowly1 and the result will be surprising4 ,those who eat salt fish alternated with mouthfuls of liquid must expect the oily particles to rise up1 and create a gastronomic disturbance4 ,fried ,porgies with ,salt ,pork4--,the much-abused porgy is one of the sweetest of pan-fish4 ,select four good-sized porgies1 and clean them1 but do not remove the heads4 ,cut into small dice a quarter of a pound of fat salt pork1 fry out the fat1 and when it is very hot fry the fish in it4 ,while they are cooking1 broil four small thin slices of the pork1 and serve by placing them on top of the fish4 ,pork gives a more delicate flavor to the fish than bacon4 ,fish ,curries4--,cold boiled or baked fish is simply a luxury when warmed up in a delicious curry sauce4 ,this dish may be served at breakfast or luncheon4 ,americans are fast learning the usefulness of curry-powders2 as yet they demand a mild form of curry1 and a little flour is added to the sauce to tone down the pungency of the curry4 ,a ,plain ,fish ,curry4--,fry an onion quite brown in a little butter or oil1 add a teaspoonful of curry-powder and half a pint of hot water4 ,dissolve a teaspoonful of flour in a little cold water2 when free from lumps add it to the sauce1 then strain2 divide the cold fish into flakes1 and warm it up in the sauce4 ,curry of ,scallops4--,wash a quart of scallops in cold water1 drain1 put them in a saucepan1 and let them simmer gently one hour4 ,blanch two ounces of sweet almonds1 remove husks1 and fry a delicate brown2 drain from the hot butter1 and pound to a paste with a clove of garlic1 the grated rind of a lemon4 ,mix two teaspoonfuls of curry1 a little sauce1 and an ounce of butter1 put it in the frying-pan1 and add gradually one half-pint of the scallop broth and the almond paste4 ,now add a pint of hot milk2 simmer until the liquid is reduced one-third1 add the scallops1 and serve4 ,curry of ,crayfish4--,these may be purchased by the quart at all seasons4 ,they are already boiled4 ,prepare the curry sauce as above described1 add the crayfish1 and serve with rice2 over all squeeze the juice of a sweet orange4 ,curry of ,eels1 with ,rice4--,cut into two-inch pieces one medium-sized eel or two small ones2 put them in a saucepan1 and cover with boiling water2 add a little salt1 a piece of lemon-peel1 and a tablespoonful of vinegar2 boil slowly one hour1 and drain4 ,cut up a small onion1 and fry it brown in a little butter2 add a pint of the water in which the fish was boiled1 and a teaspoonful of walnut catsup4 ,mix together a teaspoonful of flour with a gill of cold water1 rub it smooth1 and add a teaspoonful of dry curry-powder4 ,mix1 and add it to the pan1 strain1 and return to the pan2 then add the eels2 simmer fifteen minutes1 and serve surrounded by a border of boiled rice4 ,curry of ,shad ,roe4--,fry half an onion very brown in a heaping teaspoonful of dripping2 add a teaspoonful of curry-powder1 and a few moments later add a gill of hot water2 simmer five minutes1 and add a teaspoonful of flour dissolved in a little water4 ,when it begins to thicken1 strain4 ,while preparing the sauce1 boil two roes in water well salted4 ,when done1 place them on a hot platter1 and pour the sauce over them4 ,curry of ,frogs' ,legs4--,this is an excellent dish4 ,wash one pound of frogs' legs in cold water2 brown one-fourth of an onion in oil or butter2 add a teaspoonful of curry and a pint of hot water2 pour this in a saucepan1 and add the frogs2 simmer an hour and a half1 and drain4 ,mix a teaspoonful each of rice-flour and curry to a paste1 with the broth2 add salt to taste1 and half a pint of milk4 ,place on the range1 and when hot add the frogs4 ,blanch two dozen sweet almonds2 rub off the skins1 split them1 and toss them about in hot butter2 season with pepper and salt2 when done squeeze a little lemon-juice over them1 and send to table on separate dish with the curry4 ,broiled ,weakfish4--,when freshly caught1 this is an excellent fish and well flavored2 but it loses its flavor when kept on ice more than a day1 and the flesh becomes soft and spongy4 ,in color the weakfish is of a bluish-gray1 with faint speckled back and sides1 belly white1 the fins yellow4 ,it is in season from ,may to ,october1 and is best-flavored in the latest two months of that time4 ,select a medium-sized fish for broiling2 see that the flesh is firm1 the eyes bright1 and the gills a bright red1 and free from a soft1 flabby appearance4 ,place the well-cleaned whole fish on the table or fish-board1 back towards you2 make an incision close to the head1 down to the bone2 hold the head firmly with the left hand1 and cut the fish in two lengthwise1 keeping the knife close to the bone the whole length of the fish2 remove the bone4 7,the bone and head may be boiled a few hours1 seasoned1 and the broth used in fast-day soups47 ,cut each piece of fish in two1 crosswise2 rub on a little sweet oil or melted butter2 broil the outer side first1 then the inner side1 and serve with this side upwards on the hot dish2 pour over the fish well-made drawn butter 7which see74 ,baked ,whitefish1 ,bordeaux ,sauce4--,clean and stuff the fish4 ,put it in a baking-pan1 and add a liberal quantity of butter1 previously rolled in flour1 to the fish4 ,put in the pan half a pint of claret1 and bake for an hour4 ,remove the fish1 and strain the gravy2 add to the latter a gill more of claret1 a teaspoonful of brown flour1 and a pinch of cayenne1 and serve with the fish4 ,halibut1 ,egg ,sauce4--,select a three-pound piece of white halibut1 cover it with a cloth1 and place it in a steamer2 set the steamer over a pot of fast boiling water1 and steam two hours2 place it on a hot dish1 surrounded with a border of parsley2 and serve with egg-sauce1 which is made as follows3-- ,egg ,sauce4--,cream an ounce of butter2 add to it one tablespoonful of dry flour1 a saltspoonful of salt1 and half a saltspoonful of white pepper 7black pepper spoils its color74 ,stir it briskly1 and add half a pint of hot water4 ,divide an ounce of butter into little balls1 roll them in flour1 and add them one at a time2 stir constantly1 and care should be exercised not to allow the sauce to brown or discolor4 ,chop three cold hard-boiled eggs1 and add them to the sauce2 let it heat thoroughly1 and serve in a boat4 ,fried ,butterfish4--,these flat1 slate-colored little fish are excellent when quite fresh2 and as they are easily cleaned1 they are recommended to house-keepers4 ,fry them in tried-out salt-pork fat1 which gives them a very nice flavor4 ,broiled ,shad4--,the secret of having the fish juicy1 and at the same time properly cooked1 is to rub a little olive-oil over it before broiling1 and broil it over a fire free from smoke or flame4 ,charcoal affords the best fire4 ,the sulphurous fumes of hard coal injure the flavor of the fish4 ,when done1 have ready a little sweet butter melted and mixed with salt1 white pepper 7black pepper spoils the looks of the fish71 half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley to two ounces of butter1 and the juice of half a lemon4 ,place the fish on a hot dish1 pour the hot sauce over it1 and serve with hot plates4 ,baked ,shad4--,broiling is1 next to planking1 the best way of cooking this excellent fish2 but a baked shad is not to be despised4 ,prepare it as follows3-- ,make a stuffing of soaked bread-crumbs1 butter1 pepper1 and salt2 place it lengthwise in a pan2 roll walnuts of butter in flour1 and put four to six of them on top of the fish2 fill the space around the fish with inch slices of raw potato1 and bake forty minutes4 ,when done1 serve potatoes and fish together4 ,shad ,roe la ,poulette4--,cover a pair of roes with water slightly salted2 add a tablespoonful of vinegar and a slice of lemon2 simmer twenty minutes1 and drain2 put into a saucepan an ounce of butter2 when it begins to melt1 whisk it1 and add the juice of half a lemon4 ,beat up the yolk of one egg with a gill of cream containing half a teaspoonful of flour rubbed free from lumps2 whisk this gently into the warm butter2 keep it quite warm until it thickens1 but do not boil1 or it will curdle4 ,pour it over the shad roes1 strew over the top a trifle of chopped parsley1 and serve4 ,broiled ,royans4--,these delicate little fish are excellent as whet at dinner-parties1 and may be served au naturel1 or broiled1 or served on toast4 ,procure them from the nearest grocer1 open the can carefully to prevent breaking the fish1 remove the skin1 and broil them over a slow fire2 arrange them on toast1 squeeze a little lemon-juice over them1 and serve4 ,broiled ,sardines4--,when neatly prepared1 this forms an excellent breakfast or luncheon dish4 ,remove the sardines from the can without breaking them2 scrape off the skin1 place them between double wire broilers1 and broil to a delicate brown2 arrange neatly in a hot dish1 squeeze a little lemon-juice over them1 and serve4 ,orange-juice is very nice with the above dish4 ,broiled ,smelts1 ,sauce ,tartare4--,thoroughly clean half a dozen smelts1 split them in two1 place them on a double wire broiler1 and broil4 ,send to table with sauce tartare1 which is made as follows3 ,chop together a few sprigs of parsley1 six capers1 one small pickle1 a piece of onion as large as a bean4 ,add these to half a pint of mayonnaise1 mix1 and add a teaspoonful of ,french mustard1 mix again1 and serve4 ,smelts ,fried1 ,sauce ,tartare4--,clean six small smelts1 leave on the heads1 dip them in beaten egg1 roll them in fine cracker-dust1 and fry in very hot fat4 ,serve with sauce tartare4 ,broiled ,whitefish4--,the whitefish is one of the best of summer fish1 but does not stand long transportation very well4 ,see that the flesh is firm1 and free from flabbiness4 ,cut the fish in two lengthwise1 remove the backbone1 divide each piece in two2 brush over it a little sweet butter or olive-oil1 and broil over a moderate fire for ten minutes4 ,place it in a hot dish1 squeeze the juice of a lemon over it1 add salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of melted butter4 ,garnish with tufts of parsley and thin slices of lemon1 and serve4 ,sheeps-head with ,drawn ,butter4--,the ,englishman who wrote the extraordinary statement that sheeps-head sometimes sold for 8four or five pounds sterling in ,new ,york0 may be pleased to learn that the price for this excellent fish is fifteen to eighteen cents per pound on an average1 and that the best mode of preparing it for table is to boil or steam it1 although broiled sheeps-head is very good4 ,procure a medium-sized fish1 clean it thoroughly1 and rub a little salt over it2 wrap it in a cloth1 and put it in a steamer2 place this over a pot of fast boiling water1 and steam one hour2 then lay it whole upon a hot side-dish1 garnish with tufts of parsley and slices of lemon1 and serve with drawn butter prepared as follows3-- ,drawn ,butter4--,take four ounces of butter1 and roll it into small balls2 dredge these with flour2 put one-fourth of them in a saucepan1 and as they begin to melt whisk them2 add the remainder1 one at a time1 until thoroughly smooth2 while stirring add a tablespoonful of lemon-juice and half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley2 pour into a hot sauce-boat1 and serve4 ,broiled ,sheeps-head4--,split the fish in two lengthwise1 and remove the head and bone1 brush over the fish a liberal quantity of melted butter or oil1 then broil over a fire free from flame or smoke4 ,when done1 squeeze the juice of a lemon over the fish1 then add salt1 pepper1 and a pat of the choicest table butter4 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's note3 ,obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected4 ,other variations in hyphenation1 spelling and punctuation remain unchanged4