,,jacqu>d ,,weav+ ,,& ,,design+ ,,jacqu>d ,,weav+ ,,& ,,design+ ,,by ,t4 ,f4 ,,bell ,,national ,,s*ol> ,,9 ,,design 7#ahge-h7 ,,& ,,?ird ,,grade ,,c]tificat$ ,,art ,,ma/]1 ,,sci5ce ,,& ,,art ,,dep>tm5t1 ,s4 ,k43 ,,m$alli/ ,,9 ,,hon\rs ,,& ,,c]tificat$ ,,tea*] ,,9 #8,,l95 ,,manufactur+1' ,,& ,,9 #8,,weav+ ,,& ,,patt]n ,,design+1' ,,city ,,& ,,guilds ,,( ,,london ,,in/itute ,,london ,,longmans1 ,,gre51 ,,& ,,co4 ,,& ,,new ,,york3 #ae ,,ea/ #af? ,,/reet #ahie ,all rights res]v$ ,,preface ,! cont5ts ( ! foll[+ pages h be5 d]iv$ f a long c\rse ( art & te*nical tra9+1 toge!r ) a l5g!n$ practical exp]i5ce 9 textile manufactur+ & design+2 dur+ :i* "t ,i receiv$ mu* valuable assi/ance f _m k9d fri5ds--especially ,mr4 ,b4 ,a%5hur/1 :5 ma/] ( ! ,belfa/ ,te*nical ,s*ool1 & 8 bro!r1 ( ,brad=d2 also ,mr4 ,john ,mit*ell1 ( ,belfa/ & ,glasg[--:i* ,i ?ankfully ackn[l$ge4 ,to supply a treatise t w\ld be alike suitable to ! manufactur]1 ! workman1 & ! /ud5t w\ld be a difficult matt]4 ,to expla9 ea* po9t s fully t x w\ld be cle> to e p]son w\ld make x we>isome to ^? hav+ a k ( ! subject4 ,i h !re=e endeav\r$ to keep ! descriptions z concise z is compatible ) a fairly cle> explanation1 :i* ,i hope w be consid]$ ! wise/ plan to adopt2 &1 :ile q aw>e ( ! _m %ortcom+s ( ! "w1 ,i v5ture to hope t x w prove a valuable assi/ance to ^? wi%+ to improve _! k ( jacqu>d weav+ & design+4 ,t4 ,f4 ,,bell4 ,belfa/1 #ahid4 ,x af=ds me mu* satisfaction to add a few words ( introduction to ?is "w ( my fri5d ,mr4 ,bell4 ,i _c pret5d to criticise 8 explanation ( te*nical processes1 b1 f an exam9ation ( ! pro(-%eets1 ,i am conv9c$ t ! book w be f\nd an invaluable aid to /ud5ts ( bo? art & te*nical s*ools4 ,we already possess num]\s text-books on design+ z an art1 z also on ! te*nical processes ( weav+1 c41 & on ! mat]ials ( manufacture4 ,mr4 ,bell has aim$ at br++ ! te*nical & arti/ic sides ( ! subject toge!r 9 a practical =m1 & has ?us provid$ u ) a valuable h&book4 ,?\gh we h a ,gov]nm5t ,dep>tm5t ( ,sci5ce & ,art1 a k ( bo? bran*es is seldom unit$ 9 ! same individual4 ,! arti/ is too (t5 defici5t 9 ! sci5ce ( 8 craft2 :ile ! man ( sci5ce n unfrequ5tly %[s contempt = art4 ,! au?or ( ?is volume is peculi>ly qualifi$ = ! task he has set himself1 be+ a practical manufactur] z well z a design] ( long exp]i5ce1 & ?or\ghly le>n$ 9 ! sci5ce ( 8 subject4 ,8 book w supply a long-felt ne$4 ,,george ,,tr[bridge1 ,head-,ma/] ,gov]nm5t ,s*ool ( ,art1 ,belfa/4 ,,cont5ts ,,*apt] ,,page ,i4 ,,introduction #a ,,ii4 ,,jacqu>d ,,ma*9es #bg ,,iii4 ,,full-,,h>ness ,,m\nt+s #fi ,,iv4 ,,design+ ,,& ,,draught+ #aaj ,v4 ,,c>d-,,cutt+ ,,& ,,lac+ #aci ,,vi4 ,,special ,,jacqu>ds ,,& ,,h>nesses #aee ,,vii4 ,,gauze #aif ,,viii4 ,,d\ble ,,clo? #bcc ,,ix4 ,,tape/ry ,,& ,,pile ,,"w #bee ,x4 ,,c>pets #bfd ,,xi4 ,,lappets ,,& ,,swivels #bid ,,index #cja ,,jacqu>d ,,weav+ ,,& ,,design+ ,,*apt] ,i ,,introduction ,?\gh ! t]m #8jacqu>d weav+' is prop]ly appli$ to "w done by ! jacqu>d ma*9e1 x w "h be tak5 to apply to all h>ness weav+1 or "w t ext5ds beyond ! range ( %afts1 or leaves ( h$dles4 ,! "q arises1 ,:5 is ! limit to ! numb] ( %afts t ought to be us$ rea*$8 ,x app>5tly us$ to be :5 no m c\ld be got into ! loom1 z up to n9ety-six %afts 7 us$2 & ?is seems to be q en\gh = any weav] to get ! y>n ?r\gh1 or = any loom to hold1 b x mu/ be rememb]$ t at pres5t ! appliances are mu* m suit$ to ! "w ?an !y =m]ly 72 & n[1 except 9 wooll5 or wor/$ goods1 :]e x is desirable to use %afts on acc\nt ( _! firmness 9 comp>ison ) t ( a h>ness1 f twelve to sixte5 %afts are z _m z x is g5]ally ?\ght desirable to h 9 a p[] loom4 ,i h se5 ?irty-five %afts1 all 9 "o ti] or set1 work+ diap] v conv5i5tly 9 a h& loom1 & m ?an d\ble t numb] ( leaves work+ wor/$ 9 a p[] loom2 b :e!r ! latt] 0 desirable1 or n1 ,i mu/ leave to ! judgm5t ( ! manufactur] :o possess$ x4 ,_m +5i\s inv5tions h be5 made = ! purpose ( simplify+ ! work+ ( a l>ge numb] ( %afts1 b z a description ( !m w\ld be out ( place "h1 we may pass on to ! draw loom1 :i* appe>s to be ! fir/ =m ( h>ness ( :i* we h an accurate description4 ,h[ ! clo?s ( ,babylon 7 wov51 9 :i* ,m5's figur$ c\nt]feits s l h be5 ,t if ! p>ty's self _h be5 9 place1 ,yet ,art w\ld vie ) ,nature = ! grace-- is n kn[n1 ?\gh 9 ,gilroy's report ( ,arphaxad's description ( 8 loom to ,deioces1 k+ ( ! ,m$es1 x is /at$ to h be5 accompli%$ by means ( c>v$ blocks ( wood act+ on ne$les1 :i* wr\ght ! h>ness or h$dles & ?us =m$ ! patt]n2 b z ,gilroy has admitt$ t ! introduction to 8 "w on weav+ is a pure inv5tion ( 8 own1 = ! purpose ( mak+ x appe> t ! ,anci5ts 7 acqua9t$ ) motions simil> to ^? on our mod]n looms1 or z a #8take-(f on ^? :o angle h\rly to surprise1 & bait _! hooks ) prejudice & lies1' we ne$ n dwell fur!r on ! subject4 ,9 any case1 figur$ clo?s mu/ h atta9$ consid]able excell5ce 9 v e>ly ages4 ,! curta9s ( ! ,tab]nacle 7 embroid]$ ) figures1 & ! veil ( ! ,temple 01 accord+ to ,josephus1 embroid]$ ) all sorts ( fl[]s1 & int]wov5 ) v>i\s ornam5tal figures1 ! door curta9 be+ embroid]$ ) blue & purple & sc>let4 ,! ephod ( ! ,high ,prie/ 0 simil>ly embroid]$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a ,! ,egyptians work$ col\r$ patt]ns 9 ! loom s ri* t !y vi$ ) ! ,babylonian clo?s1 :i* 7 embroid]$ ) ! ne$le4 ,! me?od ( work+ is unkn[n1 b clo?s tak5 f ! tombs 9 ,egypt1 :i* may be se5 9 ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum & 9 ! ,gobel9s tape/ry manufactory1 ,p>is1 appe> to be made on a pr9ciple simil> to t ( ! ,gobel9s tape/ry2 ! w>p is ( flax & ! weft ( col\r$ wool3 & ! looms depict$ on ! catacombs 9 ,egypt are v simil> 9 appe>ance to tape/ry looms4 ,embroid]+ 0 practis$ 9 ,egypt prior to ! ,exodus ( ! ,israelites2 & gold & silv] ?reads or wires 7 us$ bo? = embroid]+ & weav+1 be+ kn[n ne>ly #d1jjj ye>s4 ,! ,babyloni% g>m5t tak5 by ,a*an1 ^: s9 br\ght mu* woe ^u ! ,israelites1 is said1 by ,josephus1 to h be5 a ,royal g>m5t wov5 entirely ( gold2 b x might only h be5 embroid]$ ) gold1 & 0 probably wr\ght 9 ! pla9 ( ,%9>1 z x 0 n till long aft] t ,babylon 0 celebrat$ = its manufactures4 ,pl9y says t weav+ clo? ) gold ?read 0 inv5t$ by ,attalus1 an ,asiatic k+1 & t ! ,babylonians 7 mo/ not$ = _! skill 9 weav+ col\r$ clo?s4 ,?is 0 9 ,hom]'s "t1 ab\t #ijj ,b4,c41 :5 weav+ & embroid]+ appe> to h atta9$ great excell5ce1 & to h be5 v gorge\s4 ,at t "t ! lab\r ( ! loom 0 consid]$ an accompli%m5t1 :i* ladies & ev5 pr9cesses tri$ to excel 94 ,z be=e /at$1 ! draw loom is ! fir/ =m ( ma*9e = figur$ weav+ ( :i* we h any record4 ,x is n kn[n :]e x 0 inv5t$1 b x probably pass$ f ,*9a to ,we/]n ,asia ) ! silk manufacture4 ,! anci5t ,egyptians1 ,greeks1 & ,romans d n appe> to h kn[n x4 ,! ,*9ese h /ill 9 use a draw loom 9 :i* ! drawboy /&s on ! top & draws up ! p>cels ( tw9es :i* h be5 previ\sly arrang$ = him4 ,aft] be+ e/abli%$ 9 ,damascus 7h5ce ! "n damask71 ! draw loom pass$ on to ,europe1 :]e ! ,*9ese me?od ( work+ 0 us$ till #afjd1 :5 ,m4 ,simblot1 9 ,france1 connect$ to ! neck a sep>ate s]ies ( cords1 call$ ! #8,simple' 7p]haps a corruption ( 8 "n71 s t ! drawboy c\ld "w :5 /&+ at ! side ( ! loom4 ,x is said to h be5 introduc$ into ,engl& 9 #aefg4 ,! next improvem5t 0 to disp5se ) ! drawboy's s]vices1 & = ?is purpose a pat5t 0 tak5 out 9 #afhg1 by ,joseph ,mason1 = #8a draw boy eng9e by :i* a weav] may p]=me ! :ole worke ( weav+ su* /uffe z ! greate/ weav+ trade 9 ,norwi* do? n[ dep5d ^u )\t ! help ( a draught boy4' ,9 #aggi ,william ,*eape pat5t$ a plan to disp5se ) ! drawboy by hav+ ! #8simple' above 8 head1 & draw+ x d[n ) knots :i* 7 held 9 not*es1 z describ$ 9 ,fig4 #b4 ,be=e beg9n+ to describe ! draw loom x may be bett] fir/ to describe :at x is requir$ to d4 ,its pr9cipal use appe>s to h be5 = ! weav+ ( damask1 :i* is "o ( ! simple/ =ms ( figur$ weav+4 ,r$uce a damask texture to its elem5t>y =m1 & x consi/s ( twill+1 or1 m correctly1 turn$ or rev]s$ twill+4 ,if we take a common dice patt]n wov5 ) %afts1 x w easily be se5 t "o dice is =m$ by a w>p twill1 & ! next "o by a weft twill1 or t ! dices are =m$ by w>p & weft twills alt]nately4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b ,n[1 :at =ms ! patt]n8 ,! y>n may be all ( "o col\r1 ! ?reads may be s closely set toge!r z to make !m individually invisible1 or to appe> z a pla9 surface1 & yet ! dices come out di/9ctly 9 two %ades ( col\r4 ,! play ( light on ! longitud9al & latitud9al ?reads produces ?is effect4 ,! dices =m$ by ! latitud9al or horizontal ?reads w always appe> d>k] ?an ! y>n 9 ! clo? :5 ! latt] is plac$ betwe5 ! obs]v] & ! light1 :e!r ^! ?reads be w>p or weft1 z !re is a c]ta9 am\nt ( %ade on ea* ( !m1 & ( %ad[ ca/ by !m1 :]eas ! longitud9al or v]tical ?reads are illum9at$1 )\t any %ade or %ad[1 & appe> light] ?an ! y>n did be=e be+ wov52 & ?is is ! reason :y a good side light is ! be/ = %[+ up ! patt]n on damask1 x develop+ ! above to ! utmo/4 ,9 a good mat]ial ! diff]5ce ( %ade betwe5 ! gr\nd & figure is v consid]able1 b 9 "s ?91 co>se goods x is h>dly visible1 requir+ !m to be held 9 a fav\rable light to %[ ! di/9ction3 ! patt]n w appe> light on a d>k] gr\nd1 or ! rev]se ( ?is1 accord+ z ! surface ?reads =m+ x run across ! light or 9 ! direction ( x4 ,?is is ! reason ( ! patt]n appe>+ on ! clo?2 !n x is ! bus9ess ( ! design] to regulate :at =m x is to p>take (1 by prep>+ a suitable design2 & accord+ to in/ructions furni%$ to him by ! design1 x is ! duty ( ! drawboy to raise ! w>p by regulat+ ! cord+ ( 8 h>ness1 & draw+ x s z to rev]se ! twill f a weft "o to a w>p "o :]ev] ! figure is to be =m$ on ! clo?1 & to d s 9 su* ord] z to produce ! patt]n requir$4 ,! draw-loom m\nt+ consi/s ( two p>ts--! drawboy m\nt+1 or ! h>ness ) its tail & simples1 to be wr\ght by ! drawboy2 & ! %aft m\nt+1 :i* is requir$ to =m ! texture ( ! clo?1 or to int]lace ! w>p & weft ?r\gh bo? gr\nd & figures2 ! h>ness only int]laces !m at ! edges ( ! patt]n1 or causes ei!r w>p or weft to be above1 to =m ! figure en bloc1 b )\t int]lac+ !m toge!r4 ,x is !re=e a #8comp\nd m\nt+1' & is kn[n z a #8press]' or #8pressure' h>ness4 ,= simplicity's sake let u suppose ! pr9ciple ( ! drawboy to be appli$ to %afts or healds1 & take a simple figure1 z ,fig4 #a4 ,= x !re are #e p>ts1 or x c\ld be wr\ght ) #e leaves ( h$dles ) a /raight draught4 ,fig4 #b %[s ! m\nt+2 ,a ,a is ! back m\nt+1 :i* 9 ?is case is a %aft m\nt+1 b w\ld be a h>ness = a m ext5sive patt]n4 ,b1 ,b are ! pressure h$dles or front m\nt+4 ,^! are #e 9 numb]1 z ! gr\nd or texture is tak5 z a #e-;end sat9 or twill1 ,c is ! pulley box ) ! tail cords1 ,d1 ,d1 pass+ ov] ! pulleys1 & ti$ to ! wall or to ! loom fram+ z at ,e4 ,! knobs ,f hang ov] ! weav]'s head1 & are atta*$ by cords ,h1 pass+ ?r\gh a hole bo>d ,g1 to ! tail cords1 ,d1 ,d4 ,!re are heads on ! cords ,h1 & ! holes 9 ! hole bo>d are made ?us ,illu/ration3 keyhole2 s t :5 ! weav] pulls d[n a knob ! bead c pass ?r\gh ! r\nd hole1 & ! %aft or %afts ( ! back m\nt+ atta*$ to x w be rais$1 & c be kept 9 ?is position by draw+ ! cord into ! not* or n>r[ "p ( ! hole1 :i* ! bead w n pass ?r\gh4 ,any numb] ( %afts c be rais$ t are requir$ to =m ! patt]n1 ei!r by pull+ d[n ! knob = ea* %aft1 or by hav+ ! knots cord$ to ! %afts1 s t ea* "o w raise ! prop] numb] ( %afts4 ,?us1 9 ! figure1 ea* knob is only ti$ to "o ( ! tail cords2 !re=e a knob mu/ be pull$ d[n = ea* leaf ( h$dles to be rais$1 b ea* knob might be atta*$ to any numb] ( ! tail cords accord+ to ! numb] ( leaves ( h$dles x is requir$ to raise1 s t pull+ d[n ea* knob 9 succession w complete ! patt]n4 ,x might require too _m knobs to d ?is1 & !n ! =m] me?od w\ld h to be adopt$4 ,:5 ! weav] beg9s to "w he draws ! fir/ figure %$ ) ! back m\nt+ by pull+ d[n "o or m ( ! knobs z is requir$2 he !n works ov] ! gr\nd treadles1 b1 b1 till a *ange ( patt]n is requir$4 ,next he releases ! drawn %$ by pull+ ! cord out ( ! not* 9 ! hole bo>d2 draws ano!r %$1 & works ov] ! gr\nd treadles z be=e4 ,?is gives ! pr9ciple ( h[ ! draw loom works1 b ! pr9ciple ( =m+ ! texture ) ! back & front m\nt+s comb9$ w be fully expla9$ "u #8,pressure ,h>ness4' ,fig4 #c gives ! draw-loom h>ness2 ,a1 ,a is ! c>riage1 or ! rails t support ! h>ness1 :i* re/s on ! capes or side rails ( ! loom4 ,support$ by ! c>riage is ! pulley box ,p1 :i* is a frame fitt$ ) small pulleys1 & mu/ be slop$ at su* an angle z w all[ ! tail cords to s9k :5 op5+ ! %$s )\t ob/ruct+ ! pulleys und]nea? !m4 ,! neck tw9es ext5d f ! figures #a to #h to ! knots above ! hole bo>d ,d ,d4 ,! cords :i* connect ! neck tw9es to ! mails ,e1 ,e are call$ sleep]s1 & ^? :i* connect ! mails ) ! leads ,f1 ,f are call$ hang]s4 ,! hole bo>d is made ( h>dwood p]=at$ ) holes1 :i* run f front to back 9 diagonal r[s f "r to left2 x %\ld be a little f9] ?an ! set ( ! re$1 to all[ = empty holes t are sometimes caus$ by ! tie ( ! h>ness end+ ) brok5 r[s ( hooks 9 "s or all ( ! repeats4 ,9 ,scotl&1 = ?is reason1 :5 ! re$ is set on #cg 941 ! cumb] bo>d1 or hole bo>d1 is set on #cf 94 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c ,b1 ,b are ! tail cords1 atta*$ to ! neck ( ! h>ness at "o end1 & at ! o!r end all ( !m are fa/5$ to ! tail /ick ,m1 by means ( :i* !y are secur$ to ! ro( ( ! h\se4 ,!re mu/ be a tail cord = ea* "p ( ! h>ness2 "h only eight are %[n = ! front r[ ( ! h>ness1 & if !re 7 eights r[s ( h>ness 9 ! hole bo>d1 #fd tail cords w\ld be requir$1 & ! complete h>ness w\ld be made up ( sev]al repetitions ( ! #fd neck tw9es2 f\r ( ^! repetitions are "h giv5 = ! fir/ r[ ( ! hole bo>d4 ,( c\rse !re might be #djj to #fjj tail cords 9 a full m\nt+4 ,f ea* tail cord desc5ds a v]tical cord to ! gr\nd1 z %[n at ,g1 ,g4 ,^! are ! simple cords1 :i*1 tak5 collectively1 are t]m$ ! #8,simple4' ,x is on ^! cords t ! patt]n is read1 or1 r1 ti$ up4 ,! simple cords are ga!r$ toge!r1 accord+ to ! patt]n1 by pass+ tw9es r\nd !m & =m+ ! tw9es into la%es or lea%es1 z %[n at ,i1 ,i4 ,heads ( /rong] cord1 to :i* ! la%es are atta*$1 are %[n at ,n1 ,n4 ,! lea%es or la%es are made ( cotton y>n ,no4 #dh1 f six to eighte5 plies ( :i* are mod]ately twi/$ toge!r s t ! tw9e w n curl2 ! heavy tw9e is us$ = co>se "w1 :]e only a small numb] ( la%es is necess>y4 ,! l5g? ( ! la%es is f #h to #ab 941 accord+ to ! bread? ( ! simple4 ,! heads are ab\t #d-a_/b 94 long1 ( good cord1 z foot tw9e1 :i* is us$ f9] or co>s] accord+ z m or less heads are requir$4 ,! heads are made ) a noose on !m t w run up or d[n on ! gut cord ,l1 :i* is a /rong cord1 g5]ally ext5d+ f ! gr\nd to ! ro( ( ! h\se4 ,k1 ,k are ! bridles connect$ ) ! la%es1 & us$ to draw !m d[n 9 succession z !y are want$ by ! drawboy4 ,:5 !re are a great numb] ( la%es1 two gut cords are us$1 z %[n at ,no4 #a 7,fig4 #c71 & ! la%es are loop$ alt]nately on ea* & bridl$ accord+ly4 ,9 col\r$ "w1 :]e ?ree or f\r draws are requir$ = ea* weft l9e ( ! patt]n--t is1 "o draw = ea* col\r--x is usual to h two gut cords ) cross bridles f ! "o to ! o!r :i* w slide up & d[n on !m4 ,on ^!1 cross bridles ! heads ( ! la%es are fa/5$1 ab\t #a 94 ap>t1 s t ! drawboy c take !m 9 succession & draw ! %$ = ea* col\r4 ,! me?od ( prep>+ & m\nt+ ! draw-loom h>ness is mu* ! same z t n[ 9 use = jacqu>d h>nesses1 &1 z x is entirely out ( use1 x is unnecess>y to describe x4 ,9 ord] to make ! neck tw9es draw ev5ly1 roll]s are plac$ betwe5 ea* set ( cords at ! po9ts #a1 #b1 #c1 c42 ^! roll]s keep ! cords /raight & make !m all rise ! same height at ! mails1 :i* !y w\ld n d unless !y all slop$ to ! hole bo>d at ! same angle4 ,,read+ ,,or ,,la%+ ,,! ,,patt]n ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d ,! patt]n1 pa9t$ on design pap]1 same z = pressure-h>ness damask1 is fix$ ^u a la%+ frame1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #d1 & ! l[] ends ( ! simples are pass$ ov] x & fa/5$ to ! crossb> ,b4 ,! simple cords are held 9 position ov] ! design by ! comb ,c1 ,c1 :i* mu/ be ( su* a f95ess z to make ea* simple cord /& directly opposite t space ( ! patt]n to :i* x corresponds1 "o simple cord be+ plac$ betwe5 ea* pair ( tee? ( ! comb4 ,x w ?us be se5 t !re mu/ be a simple cord = ea* v]tical l9e on ! patt]n1 or r = ea* v]tical space betwe5 ! black l9es4 ,9 ! same way1 !re mu/ be a head ( la%es = ea* horizontal space1 or l9e1 z x is usually call$1 & :i* w\ld answ] to a c>d = ! jacqu>d or dobby4 ,! /raight-edge ,e ,e is made s t x w slide up & d[n 9 ! frame1 to m>k ! l9e on ! design pap] t is to be next read by ! la%]4 ,n[ ref] to ! l9e ( ! patt]n above ! /raight-edge1 & x w be se5 t ! fir/ squ>e or *eck to ! left is blank1 & x is accord+ly pass$ ov] by ! la%]2 ! second & ?ird *ecks are pa9t$1 & z ! simple cords correspond+ to !m h to be drawn to =m ! patt]n1 ! la%] twi/s "o end ( 8 la% ov] ! p9 ,g1 & takes a turn ( x r\nd ! second & ?ird simples1 aga9 pass+ x r\nd ! p9 ,g4 ,! f\r? *eck1 be+ blank1 is pass$ ov]1 & a turn or tack ( ! la% tw9e is tak5 r\nd ! fif?1 six?1 & sev5? simples1 z ! *ecks on ! design pap] opposite ^! are pa9t$4 ,! read+ & la%+ proce$s 9 ?is way till ! l9e is f9i%$1 z %[n 9 ! figure2 !n ! two ends ( ! la% tw9e are ti$ toge!r r\nd ! p9 ,g1 :i* is !n tak5 out1 & ! loop made r\nd x by ! la% tw9e is twi/$ r\nd & =m$ into a snit* = ! purpose ( fa/5+ x to ! head4 ,! la% is n[ pu%$ d[n beh9d ! bo>d ,h1 to make room = ano!r2 ! /raight-edge is !n %ift$ to ! next l9e1 & ! la%+ proce$$ ) z be=e4 ,if too _m pa9t$ squ>es ( ! design pap] come toge!r1 all ! simple cords correspond+ to !m mu/ n be loop$ or la%$ toge!r1 b c be tak5 9 two or m loops or tacks1 nev] tak+ m ?an six or sev5 simple cords into "o tack ( ! la% tw9e4 ,x w be obs]v$ t ! bo>d ,h is r\nd$ at ! back2 ?is is = ! purpose ( hav+ all ! simples at an equal di/ance f ! p9 ,g :5 !y are tack$ up by ! la% tw9e1 & consequ5tly a m regul> %$ w be produc$ :5 !y are drawn 9 ! process ( weav+4 ,! me?od ( fa/5+ ! head to ! la% is to loop ! cord = ! head1 :i* %\ld be d\ble1 r\nd ! gut cord1 !n knot ! two ends ( x toge!r1 & take ?is knot ?r\gh ! snit* =m$ on ! end ( ! la%1 & :5 ! snit* is drawn tight ! knot prev5ts ! head f slipp+ out4 ,9 weav+ ) ! draw loom two p]sons are requir$--! weav]1 :o works ov] ! gr\nd treadles1 ?r[s ! %uttle1 beats up ! weft1 c42 & ! drawboy1 :o takes ! la%es 9 succession z he draws !m d[n by ! bridle1 & by pull+ out ! simples raises ! h>ness & holds x 9 ?is position till ! weav] has work$ z _m %ots z are requir$ to be giv5 to ea* draught4 ,:5 "s ?\s&s ( tw9es 7 requir$ = ! h>ness1 & ) a simple ( ?ree or f\r hundr$ cords1 ! weight & friction made x v sev]e "w = ! drawboy4 ,to assi/ him a =k1 z %[n at ,v1 ,no4 #b1 ,fig4 #c1 0 us$4 ,x 0 made to run to & fro on a c>riage1 s t :5 ! simples 7 drawn =w>d by ! la%es1 "o spike ( ! =k c\ld be run 9 beh9d ^? drawn =w>d1 :ile ! o!r spike 0 9 front ( !m4 ,:5 ! =k 0 depress$1 till ! h&le ,t came to ! position %[n by ! dott$ l9es1 x drew d[n ! simple cords1 & !y c\ld easily be held 9 t position till a *ange ( draught 0 requir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e ,:5 ! m\nt+ ( ! draw loom 0 v ext5sive1 x 0 necess>y to employ f two to t5 pulley-boxes & z _m drawboys1 s t x is n surpris+ t _m endeav\rs 7 made to "w )\t ! aid ( a drawboy4 ,"o ( ^! ma*9es1 kn[n z ! #8,p>rot' or #8,peck]1' is %[n 9 ,fig4 #e4 ,x is wr\ght by ! treadles ,t1 :i* are atta*$ to ! m>*es ,m1 & ^! are connect$ by ! pulley ,p1 on ! rock+ %aft ,r1 by a cord :i* passes ov] & is fa/5$ to x4 ,:5 "o ( ! treadles is press$ d[n ! pulley rocks & turns ! %aft to "o side1 & :5 ! o!r treadle is press$ d[n ! %aft w rock to ! o!r side4 ,! p>rot or peck] ,k is movable on ! rock+ %aft--t is1 x c slide along x--b x mu/ rock f "o side to ! o!r ) ! %aft4 ,! cords ,c1 ,c are pass$ ?r\gh holes 9 ! bo>ds ,b1 ,b1 = ! purpose ( keep+ !m 9 position1 & !y h knots or beads on !m at m1 m1 & weights1 ,w1 ,w1 at _! ends to keep !m 9 t5sion4 ,fa/5$ to ! cords ,c1 ,c is ano!r set ( cords1 ,s1 connect$ ) ! tail cords ( ! draw-loom h>ness1 & s cord$ or arrang$ z to draw ^? tail cords requir$ to be sunk to raise ! h>ness to =m ! patt]n4 ,z ! %aft ,r is rock$ f side to side by depress+ ! treadles 9 succession1 x c>ries ) x ! peck] ,k1 & ! groove or not* at ! po9t ( ! peck]1 %[n cle>ly 9 ,nos4 #b & #f1 com+ into contact ) ! knots or beads on ! cords1 draws !m d[n alt]nately1 fir/ at "o side ( ! ma*9e & !n at ! o!r1 until ! peck]1 z x slides along ! rock+ %aft1 has pass$ ov] all ! cords2 x is !n releas$ & drawn back to its orig9al position by means ( ! weight ,d1 atta*$ to x by ! cord e4 ,at ! end ( ! rock+ %aft is a rat*et :eel1 ,n4 ,! cord e passes f ! peck] ?r\gh ! segm5tal hole 9 ! pulley ,p1 z %[n 9 ,no4 #d1 & is fa/5$ to a boss1 ,o1 on ! inn] side ( ! rat*et :eel4 ,?is :eel receives its motion f a cat*1 z %[n at ,e1 ,no4 #e1 :i* is simply a p9 fix$ 9 a slott$ piece ( wood4 ,! p9 y =ms ! cat*1 & ! slot acts z a guide1 :i* passes ov] ! edge ( ! rat*et :eel1 & keeps ! cat* 9 position4 ,! cat* is atta*$ to ! m>*es & works v]tically4 ,x is rais$ by ! treadles1 & :5 releas$ is drawn d[n by ! weight atta*$ to x1 ! wire y cat*+ "o ( ! tee? ( ! rat*et & mov+ x r\nd4 ,!re are two p9s1 z & t1 9 ! rat*et1 z %[n 9 ,no4 #c1 & x is accord+ to _! di/ance ap>t t ! l5g? ( trav]se ( ! peck] is det]m9$4 ,! b> q1 %[n 9 ,no4 #c atta*$ to ! pulley ,v1 :i* is loose on ! axle1 is rais$ by ! /ud t1 z ! rat*et :eel is advanc$ too? by too?1 till x comes into contact ) ! cat* ,s1 & raises x2 ?is all[s ! rat*et :eel to be rev]s$ by ! weight ,d on ! end ( ! cord e till ! /ud z comes r\nd & draws away ! b>1 :i* all[s ! cat* to fall into position aga9 & /ops ! peck] :]e ! patt]n is to beg94 ,?us1 ! di/ance betwe5 ! /uds z & t mu/ be arrang$ to suit ! numb] ( cords ! peck] has to pass1 or to give ! numb] ( ?reads 9 ! patt]n4 ,! tee? ( ! rat*et :eel & trav]se ( ! cat* mu/ be ( su* a pit* t z ea* too? is mov$ r\nd ! pulley w be turn$ ! exact di/ance requir$ to move ! peck] f "o cord to ! next "o4 ,no4 #b1 ,fig4 #e1 is an elevation ( a #8p>rot' arrang$ = a s+le r[ ( cords1 z ^! ma*9es 7 fir/ made4 ,!re 0 only "o treadle1 z %[n 9 section at ,m1 ,no4 #b1 & ! peck] only rock$ to "o side4 ,ei!r ?is or ! d\ble ma*9e c\ld be us$ = a %aft m\nt+ :]e a l>ge numb] ( treads are necess>y4 ,! cords ,c pass ov] pulleys1 & are fa/5$ to long c\p]s or lev]s ) _! fulcrum at ! side ( ! loom1 & to ^! ! %afts are hung f jacks or o!rwise4 ,^! ma*9es 7 made to "w v exactly4 ,9 ! d\ble ma*9e ! peck] w\ld travel ov] ?ree or f\r hundr$ cords 9 consecutive ord]4 ,to avoid confusion ! beads are n %[n on ! front cords 9 ,no4 #a4 ,,cross',s ,,c\nt]poise ,,h>ness ,ab\t ! ye> #ahaf ,mr4 ,james ,cross1 ( ,paisley1 inv5t$ a ma*9e to d away ) ! drawboys4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f ,?is ma*9e is fully describ$ by ,murphy & ,gilroy 9 _! works on weav+4 ,only ! g5]al pr9ciple ( x w be giv5 "h1 z an introduction to ! jacqu>d4 ,! detail ( draw+ ! la%es & tread+1 ?\gh +5i\s1 is n ( any practical importance n[1 & x requires r a l5g?y description to expla9 x4 ,! h>ness ,f is ! same z 9 ! common draw loom till x rea*es ! tail cords1 :]e ! c\nt]poise app>atus comm5ces4 ,! fram+ ,b ,b 7,fig4 #f7 ( ?is ma*9e is support$ by ! c>riage ,a ,a1 :i* re/s on ! capes or top rails ( ! loom4 ,9 ?is frame are two bo>ds1 ,c & ,d1 p]=at$ ) holes correspond+ 9 numb] ) ! tie ( ! h>ness or cords 9 ! simple4 ,! top bo>d is call$ ! susp5sion bo>d1 & is mortis$ into ! b> ,e4 ,f ?is bo>d ! h>ness hangs1 ! neck be+ tak5 up ?r\gh ! holes 9 x1 & fa/5$ above !m4 ,! l[] bo>d1 ,d1 :i* is mortis$ into ! b> ,g1 is call$ ! neck bo>d1 or direct+ bo>d1 z x keeps ! h>ness 9 its prop] place4 ,h & ,k are two o!r bo>ds1 p]=at$ z %[n 9 ,fig4 #g1 mortis$ into ! slid+ b>s ,i & ,l respectively2 ^! are call$ ! trap bo>ds1 ,m1 ,m & ,n1 ,m are f\r b>s1 call$ pu%]s1 :i* are fa/5$ to ! slid+ b>s ,i & ,l z well z to ! pulleys ,p1 ,p1 & :5 ! pulleys are oscillat$ by means ( a treadle ! slid+ b>s w be mov$ up & d[n4 ,! knot cords or tail cords ,o1 ,o are fa/5$ to ! susp5sion bo>d ,c1 & pass ?r\gh ! two trap bo>ds1 !n ?r\gh ! neck bo>d1 & are ti$ to ! h>ness4 ,only two ( ^! cords are %[n ti$ to ! h>ness1 to avoid confusion4 ,^! knot cords h knots or beads on !m z %[n1 & ! r\nd holes 9 ! trap bo>ds ,h & ,k1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #g1 mu/ be suffici5tly l>ge 7ab\t #a_/d 94 9 diamet]7 to all[ ! knots or beads to pass freely ?r\gh4 ,!re are not*es or saw-cuts at ! sides ( ! holes to admit ! cords1 b support ! knots4 ,t1 ,t#a is ! simple1 ext5d+ horizontally ?r\gh ! knot cords4 ,x is fa/5$ to ! ceil+ beyond ,t1 & to ! frame ( ! ma*9e beyond ,t#a4 ,s is a half-leaf ( h$dles = ! purpose ( support+ ! simple cords4 ,ea* simple cord is ti$ to a knot cord1 & beyond ,t#a ! simple is la%$ accord+ to ! patt]n4 ,9 work+ ! ma*9e ! la%es are drawn by means ( hook$ lev]s1 wr\ght by a treadle connect$ ) ! pulley ,v1 & ^? simple cords t are drawn d[n pull ! knot cords into ! not*es or saw-cuts 9 ! trap bo>ds1 s t :5 ! trap bo>d is rais$ ! h>ness fa/5$ to ^? knot cords t are drawn into ! saw-cuts w also be rais$4 ,r is a set ( cords ) weights on _! ends = ! purpose ( draw+ ! knot cords out ( ! saw-cuts z soon z ! simple is releas$ by ! la%es4 ,! two trap bo>ds rise & fall alt]nately1 & ?is is :y ! ma*9e is call$ a c\nt]poise4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #g ,"s "t aft] an improvem5t 0 made ^u ?is ma*9e :i* 0 kn[n z ,,! ,,comb ,,draw ,,loom ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #h ,?is ma*9e appe>s to h be5 inv5t$ 9 bo? ,scotl& & ,irel&1 z ,gilroy describes x z an inv5tion ( ,dr4 ,mc,laughlin1 ( ,bally%annon1 ,c\nty ,donegal2 & ,murphy describes a simil> ma*9e inv5t$ by ,mr4 ,bonn>1 ( ,dunf]ml9e4 ,! ma*9e is %[n 9 ,fig4 #h4 ,a1 ,a are ! po/s ( ! loom1 & ,b ,b ! top rail2 ,c ,c is ! fram+ ( ! ma*9e4 ,! h>ness ,g1 ,g is susp5d$ f ! susp5sion bo>d ,d1 & passes ?r\gh ! guide bo>d ,e & ! cumb] bo>d ,f4 ,! upp] portion ( ! h>ness is compos$ ( tail or knot cords1 z 9 ,cross's ma*9e4 ,f ea* ( ! tail cords a simple cord1 ,h1 ext5ds horizontally ov] ! weav]'s head1 & is fa/5$ to ! bo>d ,i4 ,! la%es ,k hang f ! simples ov] ! weav]'s head1 & h a knob on ! end ( ea*1 s t ! weav] c cat* !m & draw 8 own draught4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #i ,! la% cords h a knot or bead on !m1 s t :5 drawn !y c be held 9 ! cuts ( ! bo>d ,l1 also %[n 9 plan at ,l 7,fig4 #i74 ,m1 ,n 7,fig4 #h7 is a side view ( ! comb & h&le1 or lev]1 %[n 9 plan at ,m1 ,n 7,fig4 #i74 ,s is a cord or *a9 atta*$ to ! end ( ! lev] ,m1 & pass+ d[n to a treadle4 ,:5 ! weav] draws "o ( ! knobs1 ! tail cords connect$ ) ! simples 9 ?is la% are drawn betwe5 ! tee? ( ! comb1 z %[n by ! dott$ l9es 9 ,fig4 #h4 ,he !n depresses ! treadle1 :i* raises ! comb1 & ! h>ness along ) x2 he holds ! treadle d[n ) 8 left foot1 & works ov] ! gr\nd treadles ) 8 "r "o4 ,! comb is recov]$ or c\nt]balanc$ by ! cord ,o1 :i* passes f ! comb ?r\gh ! bo>d ,p1 & has a weight1 ,r1 susp5d$ on x4 ,d 7,fig4 #i7 is a plan ( ! bo>ds ,d1 ,e1 ,f & ,i 7,fig4 #h74 ,,! ,,b>rel ,,or ,,cyl9d] ,,loom ,?is ma*9e 0 introduc$ by ,mr4 ,?omas ,morton1 ( ,kilm>nock4 ,! h>ness & tail or knot cords are arrang$ simil>ly to ^? 9 ! comb draw loom2 b in/ead ( ! simple cords = draw+ out ! tail cords1 ea* tail cord 9 ! b>rel loom passes ?r\gh a slide1 or horizontal wire4 ,! po9ts ( ^! slides are act$ ^u by ! patt]n cyl9d] or b>rel1 & ^? held back press out _! tail cords f ! o!rs1 & ! knots on ^! tail cords are caught by ! tee? on ! comb or roll]1 & ! h>ness rais$4 ,! patt]n is arrang$ ^u ! b>rel mu* 9 ! same way z a tune is arrang$ on ! cyl9d] ( a b>rel organ or musical box4 ,a section ( ! b>rel is %[n at ,a 7,fig4 #aj71 ) wire /aples driv5 into x to =m ! patt]n4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aj ,ea* ( ^! /aples repres5ts s _m l9es ( ! design pap]1 or s _m la%es or draughts4 ,! patt]n is rul$ out & pa9t$ on ! b>rel1 & /aples are driv5 into x s z to cov] ! pa9t$ squ>es ( ! patt]n4 ,! b>rel is s arrang$ on ! loom t exactly ! space ( "o l9e ( ! design pap] is turn$ r\nd = ea* draught1 & ! slides are drawn back by cords atta*$ f _! ends to a roll] :5 ! %ift ( ! b>rel is be+ made4 ,b is a section ( ! comb2 x is a cyl9d] ) tee?1 ,c1 l a p>rot's beak fix$ to x4 ,! tee? are made ( ?is %ape to hold ! knot cords :5 !y are caught by !m1 & !y rise or fall z ! roll] is rock$ upw>ds or d[nw>ds by a treadle4 ,:il/ ^! improvem5ts on ! draw loom 7 be+ made 9 ?is c\ntry = ! purpose ( produc+ a conv5i5t me?od ( h>ness weav+1 ! ,fr5* 7 endeav\r+ to obta9 ! same result1 b on a diff]5t pr9ciple1 & _! me?od has prov$ successful4 ,9 #agbe ,m4 ,b\*on employ$ a b& ( pi]c$ pap]1 press$ by h& aga9/ a r[ ( horizontal ne$les1 s z to pu% back ^? :i* 7 opposite ! blank spaces1 & ?us br+ loops on ! extremities ( v]tical wires into connection ) a comb-l rack bel[1 :i*1 be+ depress$1 drew d[n ! wires1 pu%$ on ! p9s 9 x1 & rais$ ! h>ness4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aa ,fig4 #aa is a sket* ( a model ( ?is loom 9 ! ,cons]vatoire des ,arts1 ,p>is4 ,a is ! pulley-box ) two r[s ( pulleys 9 x2 ,b ! tail cords2 ,c ! simples1 ti$ to r+s on _! upp] ends1 :i* run on ! tail cords at ,b2 ! o!r ends ( ! simples pass ov] a small roll] at ,d to prev5t !m rubb+ aga9/ ! side ( ! loom1 !n d[n ?r\gh ! hole bo>d ,f1 "u :i* !y are ti$ to wire hooks or loops1 z %[n "u ,a 7,fig4 #aa;,a74 ,next ^! wires pass ?r\gh ! ne$le box ,g1 also %[n at ,b1 ,fig4 #aa;,a1 & d[n to ! comb ,h 7,fig4 #aa71 & ,c 7,fig4 #aa;,a74 ,! p]=at$ pap] is roll$ on ! roll] ,e1 & pass+ d[nw>ds1 is press$ aga9/ ! ne$les ) a h& b>1 z %[n at ,l1 ,fig4 #aa;,b4 ,! roll] ,k is = roll+ up ! pap] z x passes d[n f ! upp] roll]4 ,fig4 #aa;,b is a back view ( ! m\nt+4 ,a %[s :]e ! simples are connect$ ) ! tail cords ,p2 ,b %[s ! connection ( ! tail cords ) ! h>ness2 ,c is ! cumb] bo>d2 ,d ! mails & ,e ! leads4 ,f & ,k are ! two roll]s = ! pap]1 ,h ! ne$le box1 & ,i ! comb4 ,?is 0 ! fir/ attempt at =m+ ! patt]n by means ( p]=at$ pap] act+ ^u ne$les & wires4 ,9 #agbh ,m4 ,falcon adopt$ a *a9 ( p]=at$ c>ds 9 lieu ( ! p]=at$ pap]1 & plac$ 8 horizontal wires or ne$les 9 sev]al r[s or ranks1 !reby admitt+ ! use ( a great] numb] ( !m 9 a mod]ate space4 ,he also us$ a squ>e prism or cyl9d]1 z x is call$1 = ! c>ds to pass ov]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aa;,a ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aa;,b ,fig4 #ab is a sket* f a model ( 8 loom1 also 9 ! ,cons]vatoire des ,arts4 ,! pr9ciple ( x is mu* ! same z ! prec$+4 ,a is ! pulley box = f\r r[s ( pulleys1 ,b ! connection ( ! simple ) ! tail cords1 ,c ! hole bo>d = ! simple to pass ?r\gh & also ! support = ! cyl9d] ,h1 ,d is ! ne$le box1 ,e ! comb or griffe1 ,f ! lev]s = draw+ d[n ! griffe1 & ,g ! treadle4 ,! c>ds are lac$ 9 a *a9 & pass ov] ! cyl9d]s ,i & ,h1 b !y are press$ aga9/ ! ne$les by a h& b>1 simil> to t us$ by ,b\*on4 ,!re are two racks or receptacles = hold+ ! c>ds1 z %[n4 ,! cyl9d]s ,h & ,i are simply us$ z roll]s to support ! c>ds1 & n = press+ !m aga9/ ! ne$les1 z 9 ! jacqu>d4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ab ,figs4 #ab;,a & #ab;,b give detail$ views ( ! hooks1 etc41 = draw+ ! h>ness3 ! lett]s 9 bo? ref] to ! same p>ts z are m>k$ ) simil> lett]s 9 ,fig4 #ab4 ,! simples ,b are ti$ to loops on ! hooks "u ! hole bo>d ,c4 ,9 ,fig4 #ab;,b x w be cle>ly se5 h[ ! ne$les 9 f\r r[s act ^u ! hooks4 ,! griffe consi/s ( f\r r\nd iron rods or wires set 9 ! frame ,e1 ,fig4 #ab;,a1 :i* c be drawn d[n by ! treadle ,g1 connect$ ) ! lev]s ,f by ! cords #c & #d4 ,"o ( ! lev]s has its fulcrum at "o side & ! o!r has x at ! opposite side1 & ! po9ts ( ! lev]s are ti$ to ! griffe frame by ! cords #a & #b4 ,! griffe1 :5 sunk1 is br\ght back to its place aga9 by weights hang+ on cords runn+ ov] pulleys4 ,x may be se5 t ! hooks hang 9 front ( ! rods or b>s ( ! griffe2 !re=e1 ^? hooks w be pu%$ on ! griffe ^: ne$les come aga9/ ! solid portions ( ! c>ds1 ?us act+ simil>ly to ,b\*on's ma*9e4 ,! h& b> = press+ ! c>ds aga9/ ! ne$les is %[n at ,f4 ,! ne$les c pass ?r\gh ! slot 9 x1 &1 :5 a c>d is press$ aga9/ ! ne$les1 ! b> c be fa/5$ ) hooks = ! purpose1 s t ! op]ator is free to depress ! treadle4 ,!re are no spr+s on ! ne$les1 b a clap bo>d comes beh9d !m1 :i* is press$ 9 by means ( a cord pass+ ov] ea* end ( x & fa/5$ to a spiral spr+4 ,!re are t5 leaves ( h$dles 9 front ( ! h>ness4 ,!y are pla9 clasp$ h$dles1 & app>5tly act z five1 ! front five be+ rais$ by ! top lev]s connect$ ) ! treadles1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #aa1 & ! back five are held up by a set ( lev]s at ea* side1 ) weights on ! ends ( !m1 simil>ly to ^? n[ us$ = h&-loom damasks1 & ti$ to ! treadles bel[1 s t s9k+ a treadle w\ld cause "o ( ! back leaves to s9k & "o ( ! front ones to rise4 ,only ! h>ness me*anism ( ,falcon's loom is giv5 9 ,fig4 #ab1 ! front portion be+ simil> to t ( ,b\*on1 or to any h& loom4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ab;,a ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ab;,b ,9 #agdf ! accompli%$ me*anician1 ,vaucanson1 altoge!r disp5s$ ) ! cumbr\s tail cords & simple ( ! draw loom1 & made ! draw-boy ma*9e completely self-act+ by plac+ ! hooks upright on ! top ( ! loom1 & hang+ ! h>ness f !m4 ,?is loom may be se5 9 ! ,cons]vatoire des ,arts1 z well z a model ( x on ! same scale z ^? already m5tion$--viz41 "o-?ird ! size4 ,! ma*9e = draw+ ! h>ness is exactly l a small jacqu>d1 ) two r[s ( hooks & two r[s ( ne$les1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ac4 ,in/ead ( a squ>e cyl9d] & c>ds1 ! patt]n is pun*$ on a b& ( pap]1 :i* passes ov] a r\nd or true cyl9d]4 ,?is cyl9d] is fitt$ ) a rack :eel1 s t a too? c be pass$ = ea* *ange ( patt]n1 ! cyl9d] mov+ out & turn+ "o too?1 !n press+ 9 aga9/ ! c>ds aga94 ,! diamet] ( ! cyl9d] is ab\t twelve in*es4 ,! hooks are rais$ ) a griffe1 simil> to t 9 a jacqu>d1 :i* is fa/5$ to a lev] connect$ to a treadle bel[4 ,?is treadle1 & f\r o!rs = work+ ! h$dles1 is wr\ght by tappets1 made ( wood1 on a %aft runn+ along ! side ( ! loom & turn$ by a w9ce h&le 9 front4 ,altoge!r1 ! loom is a nice me*anical contrivance1 & a great /ep 9 advance ( its pr$ecessors4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ac ,joseph ,m>ie ,jacqu>d1 a work+ me*anic ( ,lyons1 hav+ inv5t$ a fi%+ net loom1 turn$ 8 att5tion to improv+ ! means ( draw+ ! h>ness 9 looms = figur$ weav+1 ab\t #agij4 ,a model ( a ma*9e by him1 dat$ #agij1 to disp5se ) ! draw+ ( ! h>ness1 is 9 ! ,cons]vatoire des ,arts4 ,x is made ) cords & roll]s1 & has no resemblance to ! ma*9e be>+ 8 "n4 ,he 0 br\ght to ,p>is to repair ,vaucanson's loom ab\t #ahjd1 & x appe>s to be !n t he comb9$ ! be/ qualities ( ! ma*9es ( 8 pr$ecessors1 & produc$ ! jacqu>d1 a model ( :i*1 dat$ #ahjd1 is 9 ! ,cons]vatoire des ,arts4 ,?is is v mu* l our pres5t jacqu>d1 b ) f\r r[s ( hooks & ne$les made simil> to ^? ( ,vaucanson1 ,fig4 #ac4 ,he disp5s$ ) ,vaucanson's cyl9d] & b& ( pap]1 & us$ in/ead a squ>e prism ) a *a9 ( c>ds pass+ ov] x4 ,! cyl9d] 7or prism7 he set 9 a frame or c>riage1 made to run on f\r :eels or pulleys on ! top ( ! frame ( ! loom4 ,! c>riage is drawn out by depress+ a treadle1 & br\ght back aga9 to press ! cyl9d] aga9/ ! ne$les1 by means ( weights ti$ to cords runn+ ov] pulleys4 ,! griffe is rais$ by means ( two lev]s1 "o at ea* side2 "o end ( ea* is connect$ ) ! griffe1 & ! o!rs to a crossb> at ! bottom ( ! loom1 & ?is crossb> is fa/5$ f its c5tre to a treadle4 ,9 all ^! looms ! c>ds or pap] hang at ! side ( ! loom1 ! m\nt+ be+ on ! pr9ciple kn[n z ! ,london tie4 ,jacqu>d 0 born 9 #ageb1 & di$ 9 #ahcd4 ,vaucanson di$ 9 #aghb4 ,,fr5* ,,draw ,,loom ,%ortly aft] ! introduction ( ,cross's c\nt]poise h>ness1 a ma*9e 0 import$ f ,france1 :i* is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ad1 & describ$ 9 ,murphy's #8,art ( ,weav+' z a ,fr5* draw loom4 ,?is ma*9e f> surpass$ any attempts at ! improvem5ts at ! draw loom t _h hi!rto appe>$1 9 simplicity ( con/ruction & op]ation4 ,f ! neck upw>ds ! h>ness is simil> 9 con/ruction to ,cross's c\nt]poise1 hav+ ! knot cords arrang$ 9 ! same mann]1 b ) only "o trap bo>d4 ,in/ead ( ! cumbr\s tail1 ! knot cords are act$ ^u by wires or ne$les1 on ea* ( :i* is a loop1 ?r\gh :i* "o ( ! knot cords passes4 ,d is ! cyl9d] or b>rel1 p]=at$ ) holes1 z 9 ! common jacqu>d cyl9d]1 & ,c1 ,c %[s ! *a9 ( c>ds = =m+ ! patt]n2 ,e is ! lev] = rais+ ! trap bo>d1 to :i* x is connect$ by means ( pieces ( iron at ea* side1 ) a b> across betwe5 !m1 to ! c5tre ( :i* ! lev] is connect$ ) a piece ( wire4 ,o ,o are crossb>s ( wood1 ) holes 9 _! c5tres1 ?r\gh :i* run pieces ( /rong iron wire1 :i* are fix$ into ! trap bo>d at ea* end to keep x /eady :ile 9 op]ation4 ,!re is no spr+ box = ! ne$les z is n[ us$ 9 ! jacqu>d1 b into ! crossb> or frame ,f is ins]t$ a flat piece ( wood mov+ on spr+s1 :i* yields to ! pressure ( ! ne$les t are =c$ back by ! b>rel1 & recov]s !m aga9 :5 ! b>rel is )drawn4 ,! lev] ,e is drawn d[n by ! cord ,h1 atta*$ to a treadle1 :5 ! trap bo>d is to be rais$1 & ! b>rel is drawn back by ! cord ,g1 :i* is atta*$ to ano!r treadle4 ,! b>rel is press$ aga9/ ! ne$les by spr+s1 & :5 x is reliev$ by ! treadle & is mov+ inw>ds1 x is turn$ by "o ( ! cat*es %[n 9 ,fig4 #ad;,a4 ,ei!r ( ^! cat*es c be br\ght into action1 s z to turn ! b>rel ei!r way1 by rais+ or l[]+ !m ) a cord4 ,:5 at re/ ! knot cords /& 9 ! not*es or saw cuts ( ! trap bo>d1 b :5 ! c>ds are press$ aga9/ ! ne$les1 except :]e !re are holes 9 ! c>ds1 ! ne$les are press$ back & ! cords are pu%$ out ( ! not*es s t ! knots /& above ! holes 9 ! trap bo>d1 & pass ?r\gh !m :5 ! bo>d is rais$ by depress+ ! treadle connect$ ) ! lev] ,e4 ,! trap bo>d is %[n 9 ,fig4 #g4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ad ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ad;,a ,:e!r ?is ma*9e 0 ,jacqu>d's inv5tion or n1 ,i h n be5 able to asc]ta92 b ,gilroy /ates t ,jacqu>d's fir/ ma*9es 7 made ) cords & trap bo>ds1 l ,cross's c\nt]poise ma*9e4 ,x is also record$ t ,william ,j5n+s1 ( ,be?nal ,gre51 inv5t$ a ma*9e1 simil> to ! above1 ab\t #ahcj1 z an improvem5t on ! jacqu>d1 on acc\nt ( its simplicity1 z ! latt] appe>s to h giv5 ! weav]s "s tr\ble1 & notice 0 tak5 ( 8 ma*9e by ! ,society ( ,arts4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ae ,ma*9es simil> to ! above are /ill 9 use = h&-loom "w1 & answ] v well4 ,!y h also be5 us$ = p[] looms1 b ! cords d n /& ! friction long4 ,z at pres5t made ab\t ,glasg[1 ! cyl9d]s ( ^! ma*9es "w on slide rods1 & receive _! motion f ! ris+ ( ! trap bo>d1 same z ! cyl9d]s 9 jacqu>ds are sometimes wr\ght by ! ris+ ( ! griffe ) :at is kn[n z ! #8swan neck' motion4 ,! spr+ bo>d at ! ends ( ! ne$les is held back by a spr+ & drawn 9 by ! cyl9d] frame z x moves outw>ds1 :i* br+s all ! ne$les =w>d1 & ! cords into ! saw cuts 9 ! trap bo>d1 or comb z x is frequ5tly call$4 ,! knots on ! cords = ^! ma*9es are made z at ,b1 ,fig4 #ae1 :i*1 :5 drawn tight1 are z %[n at ,a4 ,! cord is a good twi/$ cord1 su* z :ipcord1 & ! holes 9 ! trapbo>d are ab\t #c_/af 94 9 diamet]1 :i* ! knots on ! cords mu/ pass freely ?r\gh4 ,! upp] ends ( ! cords pass ?r\gh a p]=at$ bo>d on ! top ( ! ma*9e1 & ano!r cord is drawn ?r\gh loops on _! ends1 :i* prev5ts !m f be+ drawn ?r\gh ! holes4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,jacqu>d ,,ma*9es ,! jacqu>d ma*9e 0 introduc$ into ,engl& ab\t #ahah & came into g5]al use f #ahbd to #ahcb4 ,x 0 introduc$ into ,scotl& ab\t #ahbd4 ,fig4 #af is a repres5tation ( ! e>ly =m ( jacqu>d1 & ( c\rse int5d$ = h&-loom "w4 ,al?\gh ! pres5t ma*9es = p[]-loom "w are v diff]5t 9 make1 ne>ly all ! work+ p>ts z "h us$ are to be f\nd 9 diff]5t ma*9es at pres5t work+1 or /ill be+ made1 ?\gh ! be/ ma*9e mak]s h adopt$ new] & bett] pr9ciples = fa/ work+ & )/&+ we> & te>4 ,fig4 #af;,a is a view ( ! int]ior ( ! ma*9e4 ,! work+ ( ! ma*9e w be expla9$ fur!r on2 only ^? p>ts t w n be giv5 9 ! new ma*9es w n[ be notic$4 ,! griffe or frame = rais+ ! hooks is lift$ by ! /raps ,a1 ,a1 ,fig4 #af1 :i* are atta*$ to ! pulleys ,b1 ,b1 & a cord ,c ov] a pulley on ! same %aft z ,b1 ,b1 is atta*$ to a treadle b5ea? ! loom4 ,z ! weav] presses d[n ?is treadle ! griffe is rais$1 & :5 ! treadle is releas$ ! griffe falls ( its own weight4 ,! cyl9d] is mov$ out & 9 by ! pulley ,e1 fa/5$ on ! b5t iron b>1 atta*$ to ! frame :i* c>ries ! cyl9d]1 :5 ! griffe rises & falls4 ,d1 ,d is a frame :i* lies 9 ! turn$-up portion ( ! hooks2 only a few hooks are %[n1 & ! out] b>s ( ! frame4 ,!re %\ld be a b> 9 ! frame = ea* r[ ( hooks4 ,?is frame rises up & d[n ) ! hooks1 ! turn on ! ends ( :i* mu/ be ( su* l5g? t :5 ! frame is rais$ by ! hooks lift$ by ! griffe1 x w n be rais$ out ( ! turns on ^? t are left d[n4 ,?is frame is = ! purpose ( prev5t+ ! hooks f turn+ r\nd1 s t ! turns on ! upp] end ( !m1 z %[n at ,a1 ,a1 ,fig4 #af;,a1 _c get out ( position to be caught by ! blades or crossb>s ( ! griffe4 ,! l[] ends ( ! hooks re/ on a p]=at$ bo>d z %[n 9 ,fig4 #af;,a1 & tail cords are loop$ on !m & pass ?r\gh ! p]=at$ bo>d z %[n4 ,to ^! cords is fa/5$ ! neck ( ! h>ness4 ,ma*9es ) ^! p]=at$ bo>ds & frames to keep ! hooks 9 position are /ill 7#ahij7 be+ made 9 ,york%ire4 ,9 ,fig4 #af;,a is %[n a section ?r\gh ! spr+ box ,b4 ,?is box conta9s a spiral spr+ = ea* ( ! horizontal ne$les1 ! ends ( :i* press aga9/ ! spr+s1 :i* all[ !m to yield or move back z ! c>ds press on _! po9ts2 b recov] !m aga9 :5 ! c>d is mov$ away by ! cyl9d]4 ,simil> spr+-boxes are n[ us$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #af ,x might be int]e/+ to describe ! v>i\s *anges & attempt$ improvem5ts t h be5 made on ! orig9al jacqu>d1 b x w\ld take up too mu* space1 & _m ( !m are ( m hi/orical ?an practical importance2 "s ( !m w be m5tion$ t may be int]e/+ f a me*anical po9t ( view1 9 connection ) ! descriptions ( ! ma*9es1 ev5 ?\gh !y h only be5 p>tially successful4 ,?\gh a v diff]5t ma*9e f :at x orig9ally 01 ! pr9ciple ( ! jacqu>d rema9s ! same1 & is n likely to be alt]$ or sup]s$$ till a revolution takes place 9 ! process ( weav+4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #af;,a ,a jacqu>d ma*9e is simply a %$d+ motion by :i* a great v>iety ( %$s c be =m$2 ! l>g] ! ma*9e1 or ! great] ! numb] ( hooks x conta9s1 ! great] is ! v>iety ( %$d+ t c be produc$ by x4 ,if a jacqu>d is made small1 )1 say1 f #af to #dh hooks1 x is call$ a dobby or %$d+ motion1 & is us$ = work+ %aft m\nt+s2 b ! ord9>y jacqu>d ma*9es h f #bjj to #fjj hooks1 :i* h long cords1 call$ ! h>ness1 connect$ to !m1 no %afts be+ requir$1 z ea* hook has only a few cords ti$ to x1 :i* c be rais$ indep5d5tly ( ! o!rs4 ,! few] ! cords t are ti$ to ea* hook1 ! great] is ! v>iety ( %$d+ t c be made on ! same numb] ( w>p ?reads1 till1 :5 !re is b "o cord to ! hook1 any ?read or any numb] ( ?reads c be rais$ indep5d5tly ( any ( ! o!rs4 ,jacqu>ds may be divid$ into f\r classes--viz4 s+le-act+1 d\ble-act+ lift1 d\ble act+ ) d\ble cyl9d]s1 & twill+ jacqu>ds2 & besides ^! !re are sev]al o!r v>ieties made = special purposes4 ,! s+le-act+ is ! real jacqu>d1 & mu* ! simple/ ma*9e4 ,x has ! disadvantage :i* all s+le-act+ %$d+ motions h--viz4 t "o %$ mu/ be clos$ be=e ! foll[+ "o beg9s to op54 ,?is is on acc\nt ( ! same lift] hav+ to op5 ea* %$2 x mu/ br+ d[n ! set ( hooks t are rais$1 & !n raise ! next set4 ,?is con/itutes ! true jacqu>d lift2 & :ile x makes a cle> %$1 & is desirable = "s purposes1 x is g5]ally consid]$ ! mo/ imp]fect =m ( %$d+--t is1 s f> z ! mak+ ( a good clo? is conc]n$4 ,x is n suitable = mak+ a heavy1 well-cov]$ clo?1 nor = work+ at a high spe$1 #abj to #adj picks p] m9ute be+ a v good spe$ to drive x4 ,a s+le-act+ jacqu>d is a v simple ma*9e1 & :5 prop]ly made %\ld give v little tr\ble 9 work+1 p>ticul>ly if ! motions are prop]ly set 9 relation to ea* o!r1 & if su* me?ods ( work+ are adopt$ z w cause ! lea/ we> & te> on x4 ,9 :atev] way jacqu>ds are made1 ! pr9ciple ( work+ is mu* ! same4 ,!re are a numb] ( upright hooks set 9 a frame2 atta*$ to ea* hook is a horizontal wire or ne$le1 "o end ( :i* is press$ ^u by a spr+1 :i* keeps bo? x & ! hook /eady & 9 position1 :ile ! o!r end1 or po9t1 passes ?r\gh a p]=at$ plate1 beyond :i* x projects ab\t half an in* 7see ,fig4 #af;,a74 ,to lift ! hooks !re is a set ( b>s or knives arrang$ 9 a frame1 j bel[ ! heads ( ! hooks2 ?is frame is call$ ! #8griffe' or #8br&]1' & if rais$ w\ld draw all ! hooks up ) x4 ,:at hooks w be lift$ = ea* %$ is regulat$ by p]=at$ c>ds be+ press$ aga9/ ! po9ts ( ! ne$les4 ,a p]=ation 9 ! c>d all[s ! po9t ( a ne$le to pass ?r\gh & ! hook to be rais$2 b :]e !re is no p]=ation ! c>d comes aga9/ ! po9t ( ! ne$le1 press+ x back1 & hold+ ! head ( ! hook cle> ( ! blade ( ! griffe1 s t ! griffe w pass )\t rais+ ! hook4 ,x w ?us be se5 t any v>iety ( %$d+ c be made by pun*+ ! c>ds to suit x4 ,fig4 #ag %[s "o ( ! be/ makes ( s+le-act+ jacqu>ds4 ,"o ( ! be/ me?ods ( driv+ is %[n 9 ?is & ! foll[+ figure4 ,! griffe is rais$ by means ( ! lev] ,g1 :i* is sometimes support$ on a beam fa/5$ to ! ro( or pill>s ( ! %$1 or x may be support$ by an upright fa/5$ on ! frame ( ! loom4 ,a portion ( ?is upright is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ag1 & z well z be+ fa/5$ to ! loom frame1 x %\ld be /ay$ to ! top ( ! ma*9e4 ,"o end ( ! lev] is fa/5$ by a l9k connection to ! c5tre ( ! b> across ! griffe frame1 c>e be+ tak5 t ! connection is s made z to draw up ! griffe v]tically1 & n h any /ra9 on ! slide rods or sp9dles t are us$ = keep+ ! griffe horizontal :5 ris+4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ag ,! o!r end ( ! lev] is connect$ to a crank on ! crank-%aft ( ! loom by a rod1 ,e 7,fig4 #ag72 also %[n at ,a 7,fig4 #ah71 :]e ! crank is also giv54 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ah ,9 h&-loom ma*9es ! griffe is frequ5tly pu%$ up f bel[ in/ead ( be+ drawn up f ! top z is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ag4 ,! me?od ( do+ ?is is simil> to t giv5 = lift+ ! griffes ( twill+ jacqu>ds4 ,f 7,fig4 #ag7 is call$ ! cyl9d] or b>rel1 evid5tly tak+ its "n f ! r\nd cyl9d]s or b>rels us$ 9 ! old ma*9es1 b is 9 reality a squ>e prism4 ,x is made ( wood1 & p]=at$ on ea* side ) a set ( holes--a hole = ea* ne$le 9 ! ma*9e2 its use is to draw r\nd ! *a9 ( c>ds & press ea* "o aga9/ ! ne$les1 or horizontal wires1 9 ! ma*9e4 ,9 ord] to keep ! c>ds firmly on ! cyl9d]1 flat /eel spr+s are sometimes us$1 z %[n1 atta*$ to ! top rail ( ! frame :i* holds ! cyl9d]2 & !re are also /eel wires :i* pass d[n 9 front ( ! cyl9d] ov] ! ends ( ! c>ds4 ,^! spr+s are useful :5 only a small numb] ( c>ds is us$ & ! ma*9e driv5 quickly2 ) a l>ge set ( c>ds1 :]e !re is pl5ty ( drag on !m f _! own weight1 !y are n necess>y1 & b seldom us$2 b !y are 9 common use 9 ! ,york%ire di/ricts4 ,x w be se5 f ! illu/rations 7,figs4 #ag & #ah7 t ! cyl9d] hangs 9 a frame susp5d$ f ! top ( ! ma*9e2 ?is is call$ ! sw+ or batt5 motion1 to di/+ui% x f ! horizontal or slid+ motion :i* is %[n at ,fig4 #bj 7,no4 #a7 & 9 ,fig4 #bg4 ,! sw+ motion is ! simpl] ( ! two1 & is clean]1 requir+ less oil2 b ! slid+ motion is /eadi]1 & does n sw+ ! c>ds s mu*1 consequ5tly is m suitable :5 ! cyl9d] has to travel quickly4 ,! sw+ motion also requires ! ma*9e to be high]2 ) a slide motion ! frame is usually cut (f a little above ! griffe4 ,! cyl9d] has to travel out & 9 :5 ! ma*9e is work+1 s t x may be turn$ r\nd & br+ a fre% c>d aga9/ ! ne$les = ea* %ot4 ,!re are _m me?ods ( accompli%+ ?is1 :i* may be divid$ into two classes--viz4 indep5d5t motions1 or ^? :i* are driv5 f ! loom indep5d5tly ( ! ma*9e2 & self act+ motions1 or ^? :i* drive ! cyl9d] out & 9 ?r\gh ! ris+ & fall+ ( ! griffe4 ,! latt] are ! simpl]1 b ! =m] are mu* bett]1 caus+ less we> & te> on bo? ! c>ds & ma*9e1 z w be expla9$ fur!r on4 ,x w be se5 9 ,fig4 #ah t z ! cyl9d] travels out x w be caught by ! hook ,k#a1 & turn$ r\nd2 ! head or lant]n ( ! cyl9d] is made ( iron1 z %[n1 s t ! hook1 or %e>s1 w take a firm cat* on x4 ,to prev5t ! cyl9d] f turn+ m ?an "o c>d at once1 & to keep x /eady s t x w always come 9 fair aga9/ ! ne$les1 x is held firm by a hamm] press$ on x by a spr+4 ,?is pressure is appli$ 9 diff]5t ways1 "o ( :i* may be cle>ly se5 9 ,fig4 #ag1 & ano!r 9 ,fig4 #bg4 ,:5 tak+ out ! cyl9d]1 or want+ to run x r\nd quickly to draw ov] a numb] ( c>ds1 ! hamm]s c be held up by a hook or slid+ cat*1 :i* %\ld be fitt$ to ! ma*9e = ! purpose4 ,"o ( ! be/ indep5d5t motions = driv+ ! cyl9d] is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ag2 & t %[n 9 ,fig4 #ah is also a v good "o = small ma*9es1 p]haps ! mo/ conv5i5t t is made2 b ! =m] is mu* /rong]4 ,9 ,fig4 #ag a connect+-arm f ! frame ( ! cyl9d] is atta*$ to ! lev] ,b4 ,! connect+-arm %\ld h a slott$ jo9t1 s t x c be made %ort] or long]1 if requir$1 = ! purpose ( regulat+ ! pressure ( ! cyl9d] on ! ne$les4 ,! lev] ,b is on a horizontal %aft1 bracket$ to ! frame ( ! loom1 or to ! beams on :i* ! ma*9e re/s2 or "s ma*9es h be>+s atta*$ to _! fram+ = x4 ,!re is1 ( c\rse1 a lev]1 z ,b1 & a connect+-arm at ea* side ( ! ma*9e4 ,!re is ano!r lev] on ! end ( ! %aft1 at "r angles to ,b1 :i* is connect$ ) an ecc5tric on ! crank-%aft ( ! loom by a rod1 ,c1 9 ! same way z ! rod ,c is connect$ ) ! ecc5tric 9 ,fig4 #ah4 ,! ecc5tric c be set to br+ ! cyl9d] aga9/ ! ne$les at any requir$ "t1 indep5d5t ( ! lift+ motion ( ! ma*9e1 :i* _c be done :5 ! self-act+ motions are us$4 ,! l>g] ! ecc5tric1 ! great] dwell ! cyl9d] w h aga9/ ne$les4 ,! me?od ( work+ ! cyl9d] 9 ,fig4 #ah is some:at simil>1 & c easily be se52 b x w be obs]v$ t a good deal ( pressure w be put ^u ! /uds on :i* ! cyl9d] frame1 or batt51 hangs1 p>ticul>ly :5 ! cyl9d] is be+ press$ 91 z ?is is effect$ by draw+ d[n ! lev] ,l2 h[ev]1 9 a light ma*9e ?is does n matt] mu*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ai ,! pr9cipal feature 9 ?is motion is ! escapem5t app>atus = ! purpose ( dis5gag+ ! cyl9d] f its connection ) ! driv+ ecc5tric :5 x is requir$ to turn "s ( ! c>ds back4 ,fig4 #ai 7,nos4 #a & #b7 %[s ?is arrangem5t4 ,! motion is n q ! same z t giv5 9 ,fig4 #ah1 b is on ! same pr9ciple1 & "o may be easily und]/ood f ! o!r4 ,9 ,fig4 #ah ! lat* ,g comes out ( ! not* 9 ! quadrant ,f1 :5 ! h&le ,e is press$ close2 ! h&le is on ! lev] ,d1 hav+ its fulcrum on ! %aft ,n1 & ! quadrant ,f is connect$ to ! ecc5tric rod ,c4 ,! quadrant is loose on ! %aft1 & ! lev] is fa/ on x4 ,fig4 #ai is a m conv5i5t motion4 ,! two halves ( ! h&le ,a are held ap>t by ! spr+ ,h1 & ?is1 ?r\gh ! hook ,b on ! inn] end ( ! h&le1 presses ! lat* or cat* on ! slide ,d into ! not* on ! quadrant ,c4 ,! quadrant & h&le are "o piece1 & are fa/ on ! %aft ,e1 & a lev] ,f on ?is %aft is connect$ to ! batt5 ( ! ma*9e1 9 ! same mann] z %[n by ,d & ,b 9 ,fig4 #ah4 ,:5 !re are two or m ma*9es1 "o ( ^! lev]s w\ld be requir$ = ea*4 ,! lev] ,k is loose on ! %aft ,e1 & ! rod ,g connects x ) ! ecc5tric1 same z is %[n by ! rod ,c 9 ,fig4 #ah4 ,9 ,no4 #b1 ,fig4 #ai1 ! quadrant is left out to %[ cle>ly h[ ! hook ,b acts on ! slide ,d1 & also to %[ ! lev] ,k on ! %aft4 ,! two halves ( ! h&le1 be+ press$ out by ! spr+1 keep ,d 9 position1 firmly press$ inw>ds2 b :5 ! h&le is press$ ! hook ,b presses ! slide ,d outw>ds1 leav+ ! quadrant free to pass up or d[n2 & by pull+ d[n ! cord ,h 7,fig4 #ah71 :i* raises ! %e>s ,k & ,k#a1 ! c>ds c easily be turn$ back by work+ ! h&le up & d[n1 z ! "u %e>s w cat* ! cyl9d] & turn x ! rev]se way4 ,! weav] mu/ be c>eful n to j]k ! motion & ?r[ ! c>ds (f ! cyl9d] or damage !m2 b a v little practice w enable anyone to turn !m back q easily & quickly4 ,?is motion answ]s v well = "o1 or p]haps two1 small ma*9es2 = a #djj or #fjj ma*9e1 or any small] size work+ spott+s1 c41 x is v conv5i5t1 b :5 l>ge m\nt+s are requir$1 z 9 #hjj to #bdjj ma*9es1 x is q too weak = ! "w2 ev5 if made /rong en\gh x w\ld n be satisfactory1 z ! /r5g? ( spr+ t w\ld be requir$ to be> ! /ra9 & keep ! cat* 9 ! not* w\ld make x a v difficult matt] to use ! motion = rev]s+ ! cyl9d]4 ,= heavy ma*9]y ! me?od ( work+ ! cyl9d] %[n 9 ,fig4 #ag is f> pref]able1 & sep>ate motions = turn+ back ! c>ds c be fix$ on ! ma*9e4 ,^! w be expla9$ fur!r on4 ,in/ead ( ! ecc5tric & crank = driv+ ! cyl9d] & rais+ ! griffe be+ z !y are %[n 9 ,fig4 #ah1 ?\gh a plan frequ5tly 9 use1 x is neat]1 & p]haps bett]1 to h ! ecc5tric at ! back ( ! fly-:eel1 & ! fly-:eel ei!r ca/ ) "o half solid1 or h a plate fa/5$ across two or m ( ! spokes1 to :i* ! connect+-rod c be atta*$ ) a bolt fa/5$ 9 a slot4 ,! am\nt ( lift c be increas$ or dim9i%$1 ei!r by %ift+ ! top ( ! connect+-rod along ! lev] ,g 7,fig4 #ag71 or by increas+ or r$uc+ ! ?r[ ( ! crank at ! fly-:eel4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ai;,a ,self-act+ motions actuate ! cyl9d] ?r\gh ! ris+ & fall+ ( ! griffe )\t requir+ any special connection f ! loom4 ,"o ( ! mo/ conv5i5t ( ^! is t frequ5tly us$ on h&-loom ma*9es1 & kn[n z ! ,s iron or swan-neck motion4 ,x is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ai;,a 7,no4 #a71 & ano!r =m ( x on a sw+ cyl9d] motion is %[n 9 ,fig #af4 ,d is ! swan-neck or ,s iron4 ,9 ! groove 9 x a roll] /ud on ! griffe frame travels1 slid+ 9 & out ! cyl9d] ,a z ! griffe falls & rises4 ,e is ! slide b>1 :i* may be flat or r\nd2 if r\nd1 !re mu/ be "s means ( keep+ x f turn+ 9 its be>+s1 :i* is g5]ally accompli%$ by hav+ a crossb> bolt$ across ! two slide b>s beh9d ! ma*9e4 ,no4 #b1 ,fig4 #ai;,a1 is a motion = ! same purpose1 b consi/s ( a s]ies ( lev]s2 & ,no4 #c is an arrangem5t ( a simil> nature4 ,b is ! fulcrum ( ! lev]s1 or fa/ p9 by :i* !y are connect$ to ! ma*9e4 ,c %[s ! atta*m5t ( ! lev]s to ! slide rod ( ! ma*9e4 ,a is ! connection ) ! cyl9d] frame4 ,z ! griffe rises or falls x w easily be se5 t ! cyl9d] w be driv5 out or 94 ,! connect+-b> ,h is 9 two p>ts1 slott$ & bolt$ toge!r at ,h to admit ( regulat+ ! position ( ! cyl9d]4 ,no4 #d is a motion on a diff]5t pr9ciple2 x is a ,fr5* motion4 ,x w readily be se5 t ! cyl9d] is driv5 out & 9 by ! too!d :eel1 :i* is wr\ght by a rack on ! slide rod ,e4 ,?is slide rod works outside ! fram+ ( ! ma*9e1 z is common 9 ! ,fr5* ma*9es4 ,"o po9t mu/ be obs]v$ ab\t ^! motions--viz4 t !y mu/ h a c]ta9 am\nt ( dwell at ! bottom ( ! /roke1 or :5 ! cyl9d] is 94 ,! reason ( ?is dwell w be expla9$ fur!r on1 b ! me?od ( obta9+ x may be giv5 "h4 ,9 ! swan-neck motion 7,no4 #a71 any desir$ dwell c easily be obta9$ at ei!r top or bottom by ! l5g? ( ! slot t is 9 a v]tical direction1 z :5 ! /ud is pass+ ?r\gh ?is portion ( ! slot no motion is giv5 to ! cyl9d]4 ,9 ! lev] motions ,nos4 #b & #c1 z well z 9 ,no4 #d1 ! dwell is got by ! lev]s or arms pass+ ! c5tres2 9 ,nos4 #b & #d x is by ! lev] or arm ,h pass+ ! back c5tre1 :i* may be consid]$ z a crank2 & 9 ,no4 #c x is ! %ort lev] ,c pass+ ! c5tre t gives ! dwell4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bj ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ba ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bb ,fig4 #bj is a view ( ! int]ior ( a s+le-act+ jacqu>d ma*9e ) ! framework remov$2 only "o r[ ( hooks & ne$les are giv51 to avoid confusion4 ,! blades or knives ( ! griffe1 ) a support runn+ across _! c5tres1 are %[n at ,b4 ,a is ! face-plate or ne$le bo>d1 sometimes made ( iron1 b bett] to be ( h>d wood4 ,c is ! spr+-box1 ! detail ( :i* is giv5 9 ,fig4 #bd4 ,e1 ,e#a are ! hooks1 & ,f1 ,f#a ! ne$les4 ,d is ! grat+ ?r\gh :i* ! hooks pass1 & are support$ by x4 ,x w be se5 t ! hooks & ne$les are arrang$ 9 r[s ( eight3 a #djj ma*9e w\ld h #ej or #ea ( ^! r[s 9 x2 #ejj ma*9es are usually arrang$ 9 r[s ( #aj1 & #fjj ma*9es 9 r[s ( #ab4 ,! hooks %\ld be set p]fectly upright or v]tical1 & %\ld be close up aga9/ ! knives1 b n press+ aga9/ !m4 ,!re %\ld be a provision made = %ift+ bo? ! grat+ & ! knives1 s z to admit ( bo? !m & ! hooks be+ prop]ly set 9 relation to ea* o!r2 b if set correctly by ! mak]1 :i* !y %\ld be1 no alt]ation is necess>y4 ,a 7,fig4 #ba7 is a side view ( f\r hooks & ne$les1 ) ! ends ( ! knives ( ! griffe %[n at a1 a1 a1 a4 ,:5 ! ma*9e is work+ ! ne$les are act$ ^u by p]=at$ c>ds cut f ! patt]n4 ,suppose we take pla9 clo?--t is1 a patt]n 9 :i* ea* half ( ! w>p1 or e alt]nate ?read1 is rais$ & sunk alt]nately2 !n1 if ! fir/ c>d acts on all ! odd numb]s ( ! ne$les1 & ! second c>d on all ! ev5 numb]s1 ?is repeat$ w\ld make pla9 clo?4 ,:5ev] a hook ( ! jacqu>d is to be rais$ a hole is cut 9 ! c>d = ! ne$le connect$ ) t hook1 & a c>d ) all ! ev5 numb]s ( holes cut 9 x w cause ! griffe to raise all ! ev5-numb]$ hooks4 ,ref] to b 7,fig4 #ba71 :]e ! second & f\r? holes are cut 9 ! c>d4 ,if ! c>d is press$ aga9/ ! ne$les1 z at c1 ! fir/ & ?ird ne$les w be press$ back1 & w pu% ! fir/ & ?ird hooks back f _! position--%[n by ! dott$ l9es--to ! position 9 :i* !y are %[n 9 ,b 7,fig4 #ba72 b ! second & f\r? hooks are n mov$1 z _! ne$les pass ?r\gh ! holes 9 ! c>d4 ,if ! griffe is n[ rais$1 ! blades or knives w pass ! fir/ & ?ird hooks1 b w lift ! second & f\r?2 & if ! odd numb]s ( holes are cut on ! next c>d1 ! fir/ & ?ird hooks w be lift$ :5 x is press$ aga9/ ! ne$les1 z %[n at ,c 7,fig4 #ba71 ?us mak+ ! cross-%$2 & ?is expla9s ! pr9ciple ( work+ any patt]n by ! jacqu>d )\t tak+ into consid]ation ! intricacies ( m\nt+1 c4 ,9 ,c 7,fig4 #ba71 x w be se5 t if ! knives d1 d 7 upright in/ead ( slant+1 !y w\ld come d[n on ! heads ( ! hooks t are "u !m1 b1 be+ slant$1 _! l[] edges pass ! heads ( ! hooks1 & press !m away z ! griffe desc5ds4 ,sometimes1 ev5 ) slant+ knives1 if !re is mu* vibration 9 ! hooks1 or if ! loom #8bangs (f1' "s ( ! hooks are liable to get "u ! knives & be #8cr[n$1' or b5t d[n4 ,to avoid ?is deep blades are (t5 us$1 pr9cipally 9 d\ble-act+ ma*9es1 s t ! l[] edges ( ! blades w n pass ! bottom hook1 z %[n at ,d 7,fig4 #ba74 ,?is prev5ts any dang] ( cr[n+1 b x d>k5s ! ma*9e a little--t is1 makes x m difficult to see d[n into x if any ( ! wires require to be exam9$2 x also requires ! heads ( ! hooks to be some:at high] above ! heads ( ! ne$les ?an is necess>y ) ! n>r[ blades4 ,ano!r pr9ciple has be5 tri$--viz4 t ( mak+ ! heads ( ! hooks z %[n 9 ,fig4 #bb1 & us+ n>r[ blades4 ,?is effects its object well1 b !re is too mu* friction ( ! knives aga9/ ! hooks1 & ! latt] are liable to we> out too quickly4 ,a good ma*9e ) firmly set hooks %\ld "w v well )\t ^! protections if x is /eadily plac$ above ! loom1 & x is bett] n to be re/+ on ! loom fram+1 if conv5i5t to h x s4 ,x w be se5 f ! =ego+ explanation t ! prop] "t1 or1 r1 ! necess>y "t1 = ! cyl9d] to press aga9/ ! ne$les is j aft] ! griffe beg9s to rise4 ,:5 ! griffe is d[n ! top edges ( ! knives %\ld be #c_/af;94 or #a_/d;94 l[] ?an ! turn$ po9ts ( ! hooks1 & be=e ?is edge rises up to ! hooks ^? t are n to be lift$ %\ld be full back1 or ! cyl9d] %\ld be close 91 hav+ ! front ( ! head ( ! hooks #c_/af;94 or #a_/d;94 beh9d ! blades4 ,! cyl9d] %\ld h a %ort dwell 9 ?is position2 & if x has a long] dwell x may assi/ to r$uce ! friction ( ! heads ( ! hooks aga9/ ! knives2 b if x has too great a dwell x may h to travel out & 9 too quickly to make up = ! lo/ "t1 :i* w probably n be comp5sat$ = by ! advantage ( ! increase 9 ! dwell4 ,n[1 :5 ! cyl9d] is driv5 ) an indep5d5t motion1 z 9 ,figs4 #ag & #ah1 x is easy to set ! ecc5tric s t x c be br\ght 9 at any requir$ "t2 b :5 a self-act+ motion is us$1 x is pla9 t if ! cyl9d] mu/ press aga9/ ! ne$les :5 ! blades ( ! griffe are pass+ ! heads ( ! hooks 9 ris+1 x mu/ also press aga9/ !m 9 ! same position :5 ! griffe is fall+1 unless "s special escapem5t motion c\ld be devis$ to avoid x1 & ?is is :]e ! dwell is requir$1 & :]e ! evil effect ( ! motion takes place2 & x is worse 9 a d\ble-lift ma*9e ) "o cyl9d]1 z ! heads ( ! hooks 9 x are l>g]1 or h a long] turn on !m4 ,a little consid]ation w suffice to %[ t :5 ! br&] or griffe is fall+1 say1 ) "o-half ( ! hooks hang+ on its knives1 & ! cyl9d] is br\ght 9 aga9/ ! ne$les be=e ! hooks are q d[n1 z x mu/ be1 x w ei!r cause ! hooks to be %ot (f ! knives1 or w put a consid]able /ra9 on !m1 z well z ^u ! ne$les & c>ds4 ,x is = ?is reason t ^! motions are objectionable1 p>ticul>ly 9 p[]-loom "w1 :]e ! spe$ is high & ! hooks are /rong4 ,9 h&-loom "w x is n s objectionable1 z !re is m spr+ 9 ! wires1 & ! heads ( ! hooks ne$ n be too l>ge1 &1 besides1 ! spe$ is less & ! we> & te> n s great2 b1 ev5 ) ?is1 if a h&-loom ma*9e t has be5 9 use = "s "t be exam9$1 x w be se5 t ! po9ts ( ! hooks are consid]ably worn1 & t ! edges ( ! knives are holl[$ out l a co>se saw by ! friction ( ! hooks on !m4 ,?is latt] w p>tly arise f ! lift+ ( ! hooks4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bc ,9 ! old ,jacqu>d1 giv5 9 ,figs4 #ae & #af1 ! hooks are %[n re/+ on a p]=at$ bo>d1 & x 0 m5tion$ t 9 ord] to prev5t !m f turn+ r\nd a frame lay 9 ! turn$-up portion ( ! hooks4 ,! grat+ 9 ,fig4 #bj1 ?r\gh :i* ! turn$-up bottoms ( ! hooks pass1 readily accompli%es ?is object4 ,sometimes flatt5$ hooks are us$1 z 9 ,c 7,fig4 #bc71 ) ! ne$les twi/$ once or twice r\nd ! hooks2 ?is makes a firm arrangem5t1 b if any?+ goes wrong ) a hook x is n easy to get x cle> ( ! ne$le4 ,:5 ! ne$les 7 made ) a full twi/ or loop on !m1 z at ,b1 ! same 0 ! case2 !y are n[ usually made z at ,a1 & if arrang$ 9 ! ma*9e z 9 ,fig4 #bj1 !re is no dang] ( ! hooks slid+ out ( ! recess 9 ! ne$le1 & if a hook gets b5t or brok51 x c be tak5 out & replac$ by a new "o )\t di/urb+ ! ne$les4 ,fig4 #af %[s h[ ! ne$les press aga9/ ! spr+s 9 ! spr+-box1 :i* is mu* ! same z t at pres5t 9 use4 ,fig4 #bd is ! pres5t arrangem5t4 ,no4 #a gives a plan ( ! end ( a ne$le1 ,b4 ,c ,c is ! horizontal wire :i* supports x z %[n 9 section at ,c ,c 9 ,no4 #b4 ,d 7,no4 #a7 is a section ( ! v]tical wire %[n at ,d ,d 7,no4 #b71 :i* passes ?r\gh ! loops or eyes on ! ends ( ! ne$les1 & keeps ! spr+s f %oot+ !m too f> =w>d4 ,a 7,no4 #b7 is a wire :i* passes d[n at ! outside ( ! box ov] ! ends ( a r[ ( spr+s1 s t by draw+ out ?is wire any ( ! spr+s c be drawn out )\t tak+ (f ! spr+-box1 z ! spr+s pass ?r\gh ! box4 ,! spr+s %\ld be /rong en\gh to keep ! hooks & ne$les /eady1 b if unnecess>ily /rong !y give ! c>d & cyl9d] unnecess>y "w4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bd ,9 "s ma*9es !re is no spr+-box4 ,! hooks are made d\ble1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #be1 & rods1 z a1 a1 run along betwe5 ! r[s ( hooks2 ! spr+ ( ! d\ble wire keeps ! hooks /eady4 ,!re is a clap-bo>d us$1 simil> to t 9 ! ,fr5* draw loom1 7,fig4 #ac71 :i* is press$ aga9/ ! ne$les ) spr+s2 ?is bo>d is connect$ ) ! face-plate by a b> at ea* end1 =m+ a frame4 ,! ne$les d n project mu* ?r\gh ! face-plate1 b :5 ! cyl9d] is press$ aga9/ x1 x slides back on ! ne$les1 & presses ! clap-bo>d back1 :i* also all[s ^? ne$les to g back :i* ! c>d presses aga9/4 ,! ne$les are n loop$ on ! hooks1 b h a turn$ cat* 9 front ( !m z %[n4 ,! bottom ( ! hook re/s on a hole bo>d1 ,c1 ?r\gh :i* ! tail cords pass2 & ?r\gh ! hooks at ,d are wires fix$ 9 a frame :i* rises & falls :5 ! hooks are rais$1 & keeps !m f turn+ r\nd1 same z expla9$ 9 ,fig4 #ae4 ,ma*9es ( ?is description are at pres5t be+ made 9 ,france1 & "w ) a ris+ & fall+ %$1 :i* w be h]eaft] expla9$ 7see ,fig4 #cj74 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #be ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bf ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bg ,9 work+1 ! c>d cyl9d] mu/ be s set t x w come =w>d fair on ! ne$les--t is1 t :5 x comes =w>d ! po9ts ( ! ne$les w ent] fair into ! c5tres ( ! holes 9 x4 ,= ! purpose ( sett+ x !re mu/ be provision made 9 ! fitt+s s t x c be mov$ lat]ally or v]tically4 ,9 ! sw+ motion ! frame c be mov$ lat]ally by means ( ! two screw /uds on :i* x hangs4 ,c1 ,fig4 #bg1 %[s ! be>+ on :i* ! /ud ( ! cyl9d] revolves4 ,?is be>+ c be rais$ up or d[n 9 ! frame ,r--a side view ( :i* is giv5 at ,s--by slack5+ ! bolt ,b ) ! w+ nut ,a1 & adju/+ ! be>+ ) ! set screw ,d or ,e4 ,a me?od commonly adopt$ by tackl]s or tun]s to see t ! ne$les are p]fectly fair 9 ! c5tres ( ! holes 9 ! cyl9d]1 is to rub _! f+]s on "s dirty oil1 & t\* ov] ! po9ts ( ! ne$les ) x4 ,!y !n br+ 9 ! cyl9d] aga9/ ! ne$les ) a c>d on x1 9 :i* ab\t half ( ! holes are cut4 ,! po9ts ( ! ne$les m>k ! c>d :]e !re are no holes1 & x c easily be se5 :e!r ! m>k is 9 ! c5tre ( :]e a hole %\ld be1 or n4 ,"o ( ! be/ be>+s & atta*m5ts = a cyl9d] ) a horizontal slide motion is giv5 9 ,fig4 #bf4 ,d is ! be>+ = ! cyl9d] ,e1 & ,c ! bolts = sett+ x4 ,f ,f is ! bracket :i* holds ! hamm] & be>+s1 :i* c be set 9 position on ! slide b> ,b by ! bolt ,a4 ,i is ! hamm] held d[n by ! spr+ ,h atta*$ to ! rod ,g4 ,! c>ds are kept 9 position on ! cyl9d] by pegs or /uds1 orig9ally made ( wood1 & driv5 into ! cyl9d]4 ,n[ !y are made ( brass1 & set 9 a slott$ bracket1 s t !y c be %ift$ 9 ord] to h ! holes 9 ! c>ds correspond+ exactly ) ^? 9 ! cyl9d]4 ,! pegs %\ld also be set on spr+s1 s t if a c>d gets (f !m1 & betwe5 !m & ! ne$le plate1 !y w yield or s9k into ! cyl9d]1 & n break ! c>d4 ,9 all good ma*9es !y are made 9 ?is way4 ,:5 ! motion = driv+ ! cyl9d] is n fitt$ ) an escapem5t = ! purpose ( turn+ back ! c>ds1 x is necess>y = ! conv5i5ce ( ! weav] to h a motion on ! ma*9e = ! purpose4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bh ,figs4 #bh & #bi %[ two v>ieties ( ^! motions4 ,a is ! cyl9d] head2 ,c1 ! cat* = rev]s+ ! cyl9d]2 ,f1 ! spr+ = return+ ! cat* to its position2 ,e1 a cord :i* hangs d[n1 ) a knob on ! end ( x1 9 a conv5i5t position = ! weav] to cat* & "w ! motion4 ,9 ,fig4 #bh ! motion is on ! opposite side ( ! ma*9e to ! %e>s1 b might be on ei!r side1 & ! weav] has to raise ! %e>s to turn ! cyl9d]1 :i* %e c easily d by cat*+ ! knob = rais+ ! %e>s 9 "o h&1 & work+ ! rev]s+ motion ) ! o!r4 ,! cyl9d] mu/ be full out = ?is motion to turn x prop]ly1 & ?is prev5ts ! weav] f te>+ ! c>ds on ! ne$les1 z %e might easily d by try+ to turn ! cyl9d] :5 x is too close 94 ,9 ,fig4 #bi1 ,b is ! %e>s = turn+ ! cyl9d]1 & bo? x & ! pu%+ cat*1 ,c1 pass ?r\gh a keep] or bracket1 ,d1 on ! side ( ! ma*9e4 ,!re is a rise on ,c a little back f ! po9t1 & :5 ! cord ,e is pull$ d[n ,c is %ot =w>d by ! lev]1 :i* has its fulcrum at ,g1 & 9 go+ =w>d ! rise on x comes into contact ) ! b5d 9 ! %e>s1 & raises !m up s t x c turn ! cyl9d] :5 x cat*es on ! head ( x4 ,bo? ^! are good & conv5i5t motions4 ,= ! latt] ! cyl9d] %\ld be ab\t half-way out :5 ! c>ds are be+ turn$ back4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bi ,sometimes ! cyl9d] may n be completely turn$ by ! %e>s :5 ! ma*9e is work+1 by reason ( ! c>ds cat*+1 or if ! %e>s are too long1 or x may arise f o!r causes4 ,9 ?is case ! cyl9d] w\ld come 9 ) "o corn] aga9/ ! ne$les1 & be press$ heavily aga9/ ! ne$le plate4 ,"s ( ! lev]s w\ld probably be brok51 or ! cyl9d] might be %ot out ( its be>+s & fall1 break+ ! y>n1 or p]haps injur+ ! weav]4 ,to avoid ?is1 small snecks1 z at ,h1 ,figs4 #bh & #bi1 are set s t :5 ! cyl9d] is squ>e x w pass ov] !m2 b if turn$ angul>ly its l[] edge w cat* on ! po9t ( ! sneck1 z ! cyl9d] is com+ 91 & turn x squ>e4 ,! sneck is held up ) a spr+ s z to all[ ! cyl9d] 9 turn+ to depress x4 ,sometimes ! sneck1 z at ,h1 is liable to cause brok5 %ots2 = if ! weav] turns back ! loom1 & ! cyl9d] moves out suffici5tly f> to be turn$ to its angul> position1 & rema9s !re1 x w1 9 com+ 91 be turn$ squ>e by ! sneck1 & ?us a c>d w\ld be pass$ ov] )\t a pick be+ put 9 = x4 ,?is is sometimes rem$i$ by putt+ ! sneck above ! cyl9d]1 in/ead ( bel[ x1 :i* w\ld turn x ! rev]se way2 b ?is might come wrong at o!r times4 ,! bett] plan is to keep x bel[1 & let ! weav] get to und]/& :at %e is do+1 z x is n v difficult to le>n4 ,! sett+ ( a jacqu>d ma*9e = work+ consi/s 9 adju/+ ! cyl9d] motion s z to br+ 9 ! cyl9d] at ! prop] "t1 & press x suffici5tly close aga9/ ! face-plate to keep ! hooks cle> ( ! knives ( ! griffe1 )\t press+ x too close2 & regulat+ ! lift+ ( ! griffe to suit ! "t = %$d+1 & to give ! size ( %$ requir$4 ,! %$ mu/ be op5 = ! %uttle to pass ?r\gh2 ! "t = pick+ is :5 ! cranks ( ! crank-%aft ( ! loom are at ! bottom c5tre1 !re=e ! %$ %\ld be almo/ fully op5 at ?is "t4 ,! lift+ ( ! griffe c be made a little e>li] or lat] to suit circum/ances1 b v little alt]ation c be made1 z x takes a full revolution ( ! crank to raise & l[] ! griffe4 ,fur!r consid]ation w be giv5 to jacqu>d %$d+ aft] d\ble-act+ ma*9es h be5 expla9$4 ,! motion = work+ ! cyl9d]1 if an indep5d5t "o1 %\ld be rigid & /rong2 = if !re is any spr+ 9 x1 ?\gh ! cyl9d] may be br\ght 9 suffici5tly close :5 !re is mu* cutt+ on ! c>d1 if a blank c>d or "o ) v little cutt+ on x comes on1 ! extra pressure on ! ne$les1 especially ) a l>ge ma*9e1 may prev5t x f gett+ 9 suffici5tly close to cle> ! hooks f ! griffe4 ,) self-act+ motions !re may sometimes be "s tr\ble 9 ?is way1 z ! weight ( ! griffe may n be suffici5t to press 9 ! cyl9d]4 ,9 ?is case ! griffe may be weight$1 or may be all[$ to drop quick]1 or ! lift+ rod & lev] may be made to assi/ 9 press+ x d[n some:at4 ,be=e />t+ ! ma*9e ! ne$les %\ld be exam9$ to see t !y are all free1 & t !y w spr+ out easily aft] be+ press$ back4 ,! griffe %\ld be p]fectly horizontal & all ! knives prop]ly set2 ! holes 9 ! c>ds & cyl9d] %\ld exactly correspond1 & :5 ! cyl9d] comes 9 ! ne$les %\ld be fair 9 ! c5tre ( ! holes2 if n1 ! cyl9d] mu/ be set z describ$ 7see description ( ,figs4 #bf & #bg74 ,! driv+ ( heavy s+le-act+ jacqu>ds w be fur!r consid]$ "u ,twill+ ,jacqu>ds4 ,:5 any ( ! hooks or ne$les 9 a jacqu>d get b5t or brok51 !y c easily be /raight5$1 or tak5 out & replac$ by o!rs4 ,by putt+ a ?9 blade ( iron or wood d[n ?r\gh ! ne$les alongside ( ! hook to be replac$1 & spr++ op5 ! passage1 ! old hook may be drawn out & a new "o put into its place4 ,! tail cord mu/1 ( c\rse1 be cut (f ! bottom ( ! hook1 & a new "o ti$ on4 ,= *ang+ a ne$le take (f ! spr+-box & draw up ! p9 :i* fa/5s ! r[ ( ne$les at ! back2 !n ! ne$les 9 ?is r[ may be tak5 out till ! defective "o is rea*$1 & ! r[ made up aga92 or1 ! old "o may be r5ew$ )\t tak+ any ( ! o!rs out4 ,a flat blade is us$ to slide ?r\gh ! hooks & keep cle> ! place = ! ne$le to be put 94 ,c>d ,frames4--,! c>ds = jacqu>d "w are usually hung on a frame z ,o1 ,fig4 #ah1 wires suffici5tly long to cat* on bo? sides ( ! frame be+ ti$ to ! lac+ ( ! c>ds4 ,! numb] ( c>ds betwe5 ea* wire may v>y to suit ! space & ! quantity ( c>ds4 ,sixte5 to tw5ty suit v well1 ! =m] = small & ! latt] = l>g] sets1 & = v small sets twelve or f\rte5 might be m conv5i5t4 ,! frame may be made ( r\nd iron rod1 or ( flat or b> iron1 & %\ld be ( ! %ape %[n 9 ! sket*1 & n semicircul>1 z is usually ! case1 :i* presses ! c>ds toge!r 9 ! c5tre2 almo/ flat at ! bottom1 ) j en\gh ( a slope to make ! c>ds slide back1 is mu* ! be/4 ,( c\rse1 = a few c>ds x does n matt] mu* :at %ape x is4 ,p 7,fig4 #ah7 is ! frame = ! roll]s ov] :i* ! c>ds travel to ! cyl9d]4 ,!y %\ld be s slop$ z to make ! c>ds travel up nicely ) suffici5t drag on !m1 & n too mu*2 on ?is dep5ds a good deal ! prop] work+ ( ! c>ds1 p>ticul>ly :5 ! ma*9e is runn+ at a high spe$1 & :5 spr+s are n us$ to /eady !m on ! cyl9d]4 ,x is usual to h a roll] bel[ ! cyl9d]1 atta*$ to ! frame :i* holds ! cyl9d]1 & ! fall+ c>ds pass ov] x4 ,sometimes ! c>ds1 :5 fall+1 are %ak51 s t "s ( ! wires may n cat* on ! frame1 b pass ?r\gh x1 or ! ends ( "s ( ! wires may be b5t & cause ! same result2 if ! weav] neglects to put ^! up on ! frame be=e ! c>ds "w r\nd to ^? t h fall51 ! wire may cat* on x & prev5t ! cyl9d] f turn+1 or1 p]haps1 pull x out4 ,sometimes a crank or b5d is made 9 ! frame at ! out] end1 s t ! wires c pass up ?r\gh x )\t cat*+4 ,! frame %\ld j be suffici5tly wide to enable ! c>ds to pass freely ?r\gh x )1 say1 "o-eigh? ( an in* cle>ance at ea* side2 !n1 if ?ree or f\r in*es at ! out] end is crank$1 or set out s z to be a little wid] betwe5 ! two b>s ?an ! l5g? ( ! wires1 !y w pass up ?r\gh )\t cat*+4 ,frames ( ! %ape describ$ are1 ( c\rse1 only suitable :5 ! c>ds are to be wr\ght =w>ds--t is1 ) ! c>ds fall+ betwe5 ! cyl9d] & ! ma*9e2 b if !y require to be wr\ght bo? backw>ds & =w>ds1 z is sometimes ! case1 ! c>d frame mu/ be made m ( a semicircul> %ape1 & ! roll]s mu/ be set s z to give a suffici5t fall to ! c>ds1 & keep !m firm on ! cyl9d]4 ,z has already be5 said1 ! nature ( ! %$d+ ( a s+le-act+ jacqu>d is objectionable = spe$ 9 work+1 = ease on ! y>n1 & = heavy "w1 or = well-cov]$ "w4 ,! jacqu>d h>ness is levell$ s t ! y>n is all sunk1 & ! %$ is entirely a ris+ "o2 x c easily be und]/ood t :5 ! griffe rises to op5 "o %$1 x mu/ aga9 fall be=e x c beg9 to rise to =m ! next %$4 ,n[1 mo/ly all tappet motions1 & a great _m dobbies or %$d+ motions1 ei!r h ! y>n spr++ up & d[n f ! c5tre1 or h "o portion ris+ & ! o!r portion fall+ at ! same "t1 s t 9 !m ! second %$ c\ld be op5 at ! same "t t ! griffe 9 ! s+le-act+ jacqu>d _h fall5 to beg9 to rise ! second %$2 b z ?is w\ld be mu* too soon1 !y c take a great] "t to accompli% ! "w1 & ?us h a mu* sl[] & /eadi] motion4 ,x has be5 attempt$ to "w ! s+le-act+ jacqu>d on ! c5tre-%$d+ pr9ciple1 & ma*9es are at pres5t be+ made 9 ,france ( ?is class4 ,x is only necess>y to let ! bo>d on :i* ! upright hooks re/ fall at ! same "t t ! griffe is ris+ 9 ord] to accompli% :at is requir$1 & ! me?od ( work+ is good1 & w\ld suit well 9 dobbies :]e ! h$dles c be tak5 firmly d[n4 ,b 9 ! jacqu>d ! drawback is 9 ! h>ness3 ! con/ant ris+ & fall+ causes a vibration 9 x1 & does n admit ( ne>ly s firm "w z :5 ! ris+ %$ alone is us$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cj ,"o ( ^! ma*9es is %[n 9 ,fig4 #cj2 !y are a v compact & neatly made ma*9e1 & conta9 a mu* great] numb] ( hooks ?an "o ( ! ,engli% ma*9es4 ,fig4 #bf gives "o ( ! hooks 9 ?is ma*9e1 & ! way 9 :i* x acts is !re expla9$4 ,x w be se5 t ! frame = ! cyl9d] is inv]t$2 ,f is ! face-plate or ne$le bo>d z x re/s :5 ! cyl9d] is n press+ aga9/ x1 be+ held 9 ?is position by ! spr+ ,h press+ on a /ud on ! b> ,i1 :i* ext5ds f ! face-plate to ! clap-bo>d ,g4 ,! cyl9d] frame is driv5 by a rod1 ,c1 connect$ ) a lev]4 ,e1 ,e#a are two racks on ! ends ( ! hole bo>d on :i* ! hooks re/1 & ,d1 ,d are two lev]s ) quadrant racks on ea* end1 :i* "w into ! racks ,e & ,e#a1 & also into ! racks on ! slide b> a#a4 ,?is slide b> is fa/5$ to ! griffe ,a ,a1 :i* is rais$ by a connect+-rod f a horizontal lev] to ! /ud a4 ,z ! griffe is rais$ "o end ( ! rack$ lev]s1 ,d1 is also rais$1 & ! o!r end s9ks1 tak+ d[n ! hole bo>d by press+ on ! racks ,e & ,e#a4 ,! hole bo>d is fix$ s t x w easily slide up & d[n4 ,if ! griffe is rais$ two in*es1 ! hole bo>d falls r m ?an "o in*4 ,?is is a v good motion1 p]haps c\ld n be surpass$ = ! purpose1 b1 z ,i said be=e1 has ! objection :i* all simil> contrivances = ! purpose mu/ h--viz41 caus+ too mu* vibration 9 ! h>ness4 ,all ! cords con/antly danc+ up & d[n causes an un/ead9ess & sw++ t is n to be f\nd 9 ! ord9>y jacqu>d h>ness4 ,^! ma*9es h sixte5 r[s ( ne$les 9 !m1 :i* are mu* clos] set toge!r ?an ^? 9 ?is c\ntry1 & give a l>ge numb] ( hooks 9 a small-siz$ ma*9e1 :i* is a great advantage :5 ext5sive patt]ns are requir$4 ,9 ?is ma*9e ! half-c>d conta9s #ddj holes1 or #hhj holes to ! full or d\ble c>d4 ,! pit* is %[n at ,a1 ,fig4 #ca1 :i* repres5ts ! end ( "o ( ^! c>ds1 & a piece ( "o ( ! usual #h-r[ c>ds z "h us$ is %[n at ,b = contra/1 ! black dots 9 bo? cases repres5t+ holes4 ,^! ma*9es h n be5 adopt$ "h1 nor is x likely t !y w be1 al?\gh !y are said to "w well 9 ,france4 ,!y h be5 tri$ "h1 & ! difficulty lay 9 sett+ ! c>ds prop]ly s z to act correctly on ! ne$les1 & keep+ !m s = any l5g? ( "t4 ,! lea/ contraction or expansion ( ! pap]1 or any irregul>ity 9 ! cutt+1 any b5d 9 ! po9ts ( ! ne$les1 or1 9 fact1 any?+ b p]fect exactness1 int]f]es ) ! work+3 !re is too great compactness 9 ! ma*9e1 & 9 ! ord9>y we> & te> ( "w a little all[ance is necess>y = success4 ,consid]+ t ^! are work+1 x w\ld appe> t ! pit* & size ( ! holes 9 our c>ds are unnecess>ily l>ge1 except :]e small ma*9es answ] & sav+ ( space is no consid]ation2 9 t case ! extra pap] requir$ = ! c>ds might be m ?an comp5sat$ = by ! /r5g? ( ! ma*9e1 & ! sav+ ( tr\ble 9 att5d+ to x4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ca ,! me?od already m5tion$ ( gett+ ov] ! disadvantage ( ! s+le-act+ jacqu>d is n likely to ga9 g5]al fav\r1 & is n requir$1 z x is surpass$ by ! d\ble-act+ jacqu>d1 or t 9 :i* !re are two griffes1 "o ris+ :5 ! o!r is fall+1 =m+ a c\nt]poise z well1 mak+ ! %$ m aft] ! pr9ciple ( ord9>y tappet %$d+4 ,9 a loom fitt$ ) a s+le-act+ jacqu>d1 if !re is mu* weight to be lift$1 x w turn r\nd ! loom s t x w re/ 9 no position b ) ! griffe d[n1 & ?is is frequ5tly ( s mu* annoyance to ! weav] z to necessitate a c\nt]poise be+ appli$ to balance x4 ,sometimes weights are us$1 & sometimes spr+s4 ,) ! d\ble-act+ lift no?+ is requir$1 & ?is 0 fir/ us$ 9 ,cross's c\nt]poise h>ness 7ab\t #ahaf74 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cb ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cc ,9 ! d\ble-lift ma*9e !re are d\ble ! numb] ( hooks t !re w\ld be 9 a s+le-lift ma*9e ( ! same size1 b ! same numb] ( ne$les2 ea* ne$le is connect$ ) two hooks1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #cb1 :i* gives "o r[ ( hooks & ne$les = an #h-r[ or #djj ma*9e4 ,!re are two griffes1 "o work+ above ! o!r1 z %[n at ,a & ,b1 ,fig4 #cc4 ,e1 ,e is ! top griffe 9 bo?2 ,c1 ,c is ! bottom griffe1 %[n complete at ,a1 b at ,b ! side-b> ( ! frame is omitt$1 leav+ only ! knives to %[ h[ !y fall 9 betwe5 ^? ( ! bottom griffe2 ,d1 ,d#a are ! two slide rods or sp9dles :i* keep ! griffes /eady 9 _! trav]se4 ,!re mu/ be a suffici5t space betwe5 ! frame ,c ( ! l[] griffe & t ( ! upp] griffe1 ,e1 to all[ ( ! requir$ draw be+ giv5 to =m ! %$s )\t !m com+ into contact4 ,9 ^! ma*9es1 al?\gh !re are #af hooks 9 ! r[1 !y only act z eight1 s f> z =m+ ! patt]n is conc]n$1 z two hooks are gov]n$ by "o ne$le2 ! additional hooks are solely = ! purpose ( obta9+ a ris+ & fall+ %$4 ,ea* pair ( hooks is connect$ toge!r at ! bottom by a piece ( /rong cotton cord1 call$ ! tail cord or tug cord1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ce4 ,! griffes are rais$ by two lev]s arrang$ side by side1 & simil> to ! "o %[n 9 ,fig4 #ag4 ,^! lev]s are wr\ght by rods connect+ !m to a d\ble crank1 or sometimes to a tappet1 on ! tappet %aft ( ! loom4 ,! common =m ( crank is %[n at ,a1 ,fig4 #cd4 ,b is ! tappet %aft1 & on ! end ( x is fa/5$ a disc4 ,a second disc1 :i* c>ries ! d\ble crank1 ,g1 is bolt$ aga9/ ?is "o1 & c be %ift$ to :atev] position is requir$ to give ! tread at ! correct "t4 ,! cyl9d] is driv5 f an ecc5tric on ! crank-%aft z be=e describ$4 ,"o ( ! griffes rises = ea* %ot1 ! o!r fall+ at ! same "t2 b ! cyl9d] mu/ come 9 = e %ot1 & x is "h t ! pr9cipal fault 9 ?is ma*9e lies4 ,n only has ! cyl9d] to travel at a high spe$1 b :5 "o griffe is at its highe/ position1 x has to press aga9/ ! ne$les1 s z to cle> away ^? hooks t are n to be lift$ by ! l[] griffe1 :i* %\ld n[ be beg9n+ to rise2 & 9 consequ5ce ( ! ne$les be+ atta*$ to two hooks1 "o belong+ to ! upp] griffe1 & ! o!r to ! l[] "o1 x foll[s t ^? ne$les t are press$ 9 by ! c>ds h to spr+ back ! hooks connect$ ) !m t are rais$ by ! upp] griffe1 :i* is a sev]e /ra9 on bo? ne$les & c>ds4 ,to prev5t ! hooks be+ pu%$ (f ! upp] griffe1 !y mu/ h l>g] turns on !m ?an w\ld o!rwise be necess>y4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cd ,fig4 #ce %[s h[ ! rais$ hooks c be all[$ to yield to ! pressure ( ! ne$les4 ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d are f\r hooks connect$ ) two ne$les1 #a & #b4 ,:5 ! hook ,a is rais$1 if ,b1 :i* raises ! same w>p--z w be se5 by ! connection ( ! tail cords ) ! h>ness at ,e--is n to be rais$ = ! next %ot1 ! ne$le #a is press$ back by ! c>d1 & presses ! hook ,b back f its knife z %[n1 ! dott$ l9e be+ its orig9al position2 ! ,a hook1 be+ connect$ ) ! same ne$le1 mu/ also be sprung back1 b its head _c get back1 z x is held on ! blade ( ! griffe1 s t ! wire w\ld require to spr+1 if "s escape 7 n made = x4 ,! l[] ends ( ! hooks are made ,v-%ape 9 ! grat+1 s t :5 rais$1 if press$ on by ! ne$les1 !y c move =w>d z %[n1 ! dott$ l9e %[+ ! orig9al position ( ! hook ,a4 ,:5 ! hooks fall1 !y fill ! slots 9 ! grat+1 & are ?us kept /eady4 ,g %[s ! tail cords z connect$ ) ! h>ness :5 bo? hooks are d[n2 ,e %[s !m :5 "o hook is up & ! o!r d[n1 & if ! hook ,b 0 rais$ = ! next %ot1 ! tail cord on x w\ld be tight5+ up z t on ,a w\ld be fall+1 & ! h>ness atta*$ to !m w\ld be caught up a second "t f ! middle position1 ?us =m+ c5tre %$d+ ) any portion ( ! h>ness t is rais$ sev]al times 9 succession4 ,) pla9-texture c>ds ! upp] & l[] portions ( ! %$ w\ld pass ea* o!r 9 ! c5tre :5 ! %$s are be+ rev]s$1 all ! ev5 numb]s ( hooks be+ on "o griffe1 & all ! odd numb]s on ! o!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ce ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cf ,! tail cord consi/s ( two pieces ( cotton cord1 "o fa/5$ to ea* hook ( a pair1 !n ! two ends are toge!r ti$ to ! bun* ( neck tw9es t are to hang f ^! hooks1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ce1 & at ,a1 ,fig4 #cf4 ,:5 "o hook is rais$ & ! tail cord drawn up ) x1 ! o!r portion ( ! tail cord1 :i* is ti$ to ! o!r hook1 is slack5$--z %[n at ,a1 ,fig4 #cf--:i* causes a c]ta9 am\nt ( friction on !m4 ,also1 :5 "o hook ( ! pair is fall+ ) ! desc5d+ griffe1 & ! o!r hook ris+1 ! pluck occasion$ !reby on ! cords1 :5 ! hooks are pass+ at ! c5tre1 has a t5d5cy to we> & break !m4 ,al?\gh ?is does n occur :5 ! l+oes are ( a mod]ate weight 7#ah to #be p] lb471 & :5 only a few neck tw9es are ti$ to ea* tail1 yet :5 a l>ge numb] ( neck tw9es 7say #bj7 are ti$ to ea* tail1 ) weighty l+oes1 z may frequ5tly be ! case 9 weav+ small patt]ns on wooll5 & wor/$ goods1 ! breakage ( ! tail cords is a common s\rce ( compla9t1 :i* n only gives ! tr\ble ( r5ew+ !m1 b is liable to cause defects 9 ! clo?1 by ! weav] n obs]v+ ! breakage = "s "t1 z "o hook ( ! pair may be rais+ ! neck tw9es--t is1 9 case ( ! tail cord to only "o ( ! hooks break+4 ,to rem$y ?is ,messrs4 ,hancock1 ,r5nie1 & ,hudson h ?is ye> 7#ahij7 introduc$ a pat5t l9k connection = jo9+ ! tail to ! hooks1 :i* only requires "o cord1 or d\ble cord1 to be us$1 in/ead ( two z be=e4 ,?is is %[n 9 ,fig4 #cf at ,b4 ,:5 "o hook is rais$ & ! o!r d[n1 ! l9k is 9 ! position %[n at ,c4 ,! old me?od is %[n at ,a4 ,:5 "o hook is ris+ & ! o!r fall+1 ! p>tial turn+ ( ! l9k causes a loss ( "t equal to ab\t a qu>t] ( an in* ( lift1 & ?is eases ! sudd5 pluck on ! tail cord4 ,:5 bo? hooks are d[n !re is also a loss ( a qu>t] ( an in* 9 ! lift :5 "o hook beg9s to rise1 caus$ by ! turn+ ( ! l9k4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cg ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ch ,?is pat5t works v well1 b1 except :5 heavy weights are on ! hooks1 is n likely to sup]s$e ! old] me?ods4 ,^! l9ks are fitt$ to ma*9es by mak]s 9 ,man*e/] & ,brad=d4 ,be=e ! =m ( griffe %[n 9 ,fig4 #cc 0 adopt$ ! hooks 7 made ( two heights1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #cg1 & "o griffe wr\ght above ! o!r1 in/ead ( ! "o set ( blades or knives pass+ ?r\gh ea* o!r2 b ?is me?od 0 giv5 up on acc\nt ( ! vibration ( ! long hooks1 :i* made x unc]ta9 :e!r !y w\ld rema9 on ! knives or keep cle> ( !m :5 requir$4 ,fig4 #cg %[s ?is arrangem5t ( hooks = a d\ble-cyl9d] ma*9e2 = a s+le-cyl9d] ma*9e ) two griffes ! heights ( ! hooks w\ld be simil>1 b ! heads w\ld all be turn$ 9 ! same direction1 & ! knives slop$ to suit ?is1 z is done :5 ! hooks are all ( ! "o height2 ea* ne$le w\ld be connect$ to a %ort hook & a long "o4 ,! %ort hooks give mu* m c]ta9 "w1 & c h ! cyl9d] set s z to press back ! hooks only z mu* z is requir$1 :]eas ) long & %ort hooks all[ance _h to be made = ! unc]ta9ty ( ! vibration & ! diff]5ce 9 ! l5g? ( ! two sets ( hooks4 ,fig4 #ch is a view ( "o ( ! be/ makes ( d\ble-lift jacqu>ds ) a s+le cyl9d]4 ,! ma*9e is made by ,devoge ,co41 ( ,man*e/]1 b is n "h giv5 z be+ specially recomm5d$ 9 pref]5ce to o!rs2 x is only giv5 z an illu/ration4 ,^? want+ to buy a ma*9e _h bett] see :at are 9 ! m>ket1 & select :at !y consid] mo/ suitable to _! "w & price4 ,?is applies to all ! ma*9]y giv5 9 ^! articles4 ,!re is r>ely a be/ ma*9e = all purposes4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ci ,^! ma*9es are mu* 9 use1 & c be run at a high spe$1 say #afj1 or ev5 #ahj1 & by _m are pref]r$ to ! d\ble-cyl9d] ma*9es1 z !re is no dang] ( "o cyl9d] gett+ be=e ! o!r1 & ! c>ds are all lac$ 9 "o set2 besides1 x may be m conv5i5t = work+1 z "s arrange _! ma*9es s t ! c>ds = "o loom hang to ! back1 & ^? ( ! next to ! front4 ,:5 ^! ma*9es are to "w at a high spe$1 ! slide-motion cyl9d] w probably be f\nd ! mo/ satisfactory4 ,fig4 #ci illu/rates "o ( ^! ma*9es ) slide cyl9d] motion & ! lev]s = driv+ x1 ! connections be+ z be=e giv54 ,! lev]s = rais+ ! griffes are also %[n1 b "h g to ! back1 :]eas !y are usually at ! side4 ,! mo/ p]fect jacqu>d ma*9e 9 ! m>ket is und\bt$ly ! ,,d\ble-,,act+ ,,jacqu>d ,,) ,,two ,,cyl9d]s ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dj ,! only drawback to ?is ma*9e is1 except :at may be said aga9/ ! me?od ( %$d+1 ! liability ( "o cyl9d] to be turn$ out ( "t1 or get a %ot or two be=e ! o!r1 s z to put ! c>ds (f _! prop] rotation2 b ?is is only a difficulty 9 ! h&s ( inexp]i5c$ weav]s2 nev]!less x exi/s4 ,! effect w be to spoil ! patt]n on ! clo?1 giv+ ! twill a mix$ or brok5-up appe>ance4 ,!re are motions 9 use = /opp+ ! loom1 unless ! c>ds come 9 rotation1 b _m pref] to "w )\t !m4 ,fig4 #dj is a view ( a two-cyl9d] ma*9e made by ,messrs4 ,devoge ,co41 ) sw+-motion cyl9d]s1 :i* are1 p]haps1 ! be/ motions = ^! ma*9es1 z !y d n require to travel quickly4 ,a v good spe$ = ! ma*9es to "w at is #afj to #ahj or #bjj picks p] m9ute1 & ! cyl9d]s w\ld only travel at half ?is spe$4 ,! cyl9d]s %\ld be driv5 by an ecc5tric1 same z giv5 = ! s+le-act+ ma*9es1 b in/ead ( be+ on ! crank %aft1 x %\ld be on ! tappet %aft1 :i* runs at half ! spe$2 & z ! two cyl9d] frames are connect$ toge!r1 :5 ! "o is go+ out ! o!r is com+ 91 s t "o ecc5tric mak+ a revolution = two beats ( ! slay w drive bo? cyl9d]s4 ,sometimes ! ecc5tric is on ! tappet %aft1 inside ! fram+ ( ! loom1 & is connect$ ) ! top lev]1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #cd 7,b74 ,c is ! ecc5tric1 ,d ! fulcrum ( a %ort lev] atta*$ to x1 & ,e ! upright rod atta*$ to an arm or lev] on a horizontal %aft support$ by ! ma*9e1 or on ! top ( ! loom4 ,a lev] f ?is %aft on ea* side ( ! ma*9e drives ! cyl9d]s4 ,! ecc5tric may be on ! end ( ! tappet %aft1 same z x is %[n on ! crank %aft 9 ,fig4 #ah2 b x might n always be conv5i5t to h x "h1 & p]haps ! mo/ desirable way to h x at any "t is to h a p9ion on ! crank %aft )1 say1 tw5ty tee? 9 x1 & a /ud :eel alongside ) =ty tee? ge>+ into x4 ,on ?is /ud ! ecc5tric c be fix$1 & w give a v /eady & conv5i5t me?od ( driv+4 ,! griffes are rais$ 9 ! same way z = ! d\ble-lift jacqu>d ) "o cyl9d]4 7,see ,fig4 #cd 7,a774 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #da ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #db ,fig4 #da %[s ! arrangem5t ( a r[ ( hooks & ne$les = a d\ble-cyl9d] ma*9e4 ,! top ne$le ( ! upp] set & ! bottom ne$le ( ! "u set are atta*$ to two adjo9+ hooks1 :i* are connect$ toge!r ) ! same tail cord4 ,?is arrangem5t is to enable ! c>ds :5 work+ at bo? sides to act on ! correct hooks1 :i* w be bett] und]/ood by ref]r+ to ! description ( lac+ c>ds = ^! ma*9es4 ,9 ,fig4 #da x w be obs]v$ t all ! hooks are v]tical4 ,sometimes ! hooks are slant$ a little1 z 9 ,fig4 #db1 to give m space betwe5 ! hooks at ! top1 )\t increas+ ! wid? ( ! ma*9e1 & !re is a slight diff]5ce 9 ! arrangem5t ( ! hooks & ne$les1 z is %[n4 ,bo? "w v well4 ,fig4 #dc %[s a two-cyl9d] ma*9e1 by ,messrs4 ,devoge ,co41 ) a slide motion = ! cyl9d]s1 :i* w\ld be driv5 9 ! same way z ! sw+ motion4 ,x has be5 said t ! %$d+ ( a s+le-act+ jacqu>d is ( ! wor/ description = g5]al weav+4 ,t ( ! d\ble-act+ ma*9e is by no means p]fect ei!r2 "s pref] ! s+le-to ! d\ble-act+ = mak+ f9e damask4 ,jacqu>d %$d+ _c be regulat$ 9 ! same way z tappets or ! be/ %$d+ motions c4 ,9 tappets ! dwell c be regulat$ to suit ! clo? requir$1 & ! "t ( ! %$d+ c be made e>ly or late z desir$4 ,9 jacqu>ds ?is _c be done to any?+ l ! same ext5t4 ,! %$ mu/ always be op5 9 "t = ! pick1 & ! pick %\ld beg9 :5 ! cranks are ab\t ! bottom c5tre1 a little e>li] or lat]1 z desir$4 ,! jacqu>d mu/ h ! %$ op5 at ?is "t1 & mu/ keep x op5 till ! %uttle passes ?r\gh4 ,x has be5 said t ! usual me?od ( rais+ ! griffe or griffes is by a crank 7or a /ud 9 ! :eel1 :i* is practically a crank7 on ! crank %aft = a s+le-act+ ma*9e1 & by a d\ble crank on ! tappet %aft = a d\ble-act+ ma*9e4 ,n[1 a crank gives a cont9u\s ecc5tric motion ) a slight dwell :5 x is at bo? top & bottom c5tres4 ,sometimes a tappet is us$ to raise ! griffes in/ead ( a crank1 & ( c\rse any requir$ dwell c be made on a tappet2 b !n x mu/ suit ! jacqu>d1 & ! great] ! dwell1 ! less "t is occupi$ 9 ! ris+ & fall+ ( ! h>ness4 ,if ! h>ness is pluck$ up or dropp$ d[n too quickly1 ! result is a danc+ or un/ead9ess ( ! cords1 & 9 a d\ble-lift ma*9e !re w be a consid]able pluck+ :5 ! hooks t are ris+ take up ! cords t are fall+4 ,9 ord] to keep ! cords z /eady & free f vibration z possible1 if !re is any sw++ 9 ! weights or l+oes1 x is a common practice to put a frame r\nd ^!1 ) wires run ?r\gh x at :atev] di/ance ap>t is ?\ght desirable1 s z to p>tition !m (f 9 bun*es & keep !m f sway+ ab\t4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dc ,! smoo!r & sl[] ! h>ness c be rais$ & l[]$1 ! bett]4 ,!re=e1 to get a high work+ spe$1 ! "t or ! portion ( a revolution ( ! crank %aft giv5 to ! rise & fall mu/ be z great z possible1 s t v little c\ld be ga9$ by us+ a tappet4 ,if a tappet is to be us$1 a box tappet w be requir$1 or is m satisfactory = a s+le-act+ ma*9e1 9 ord] to make ! griffe 9 fall+ foll[ ! tappet & avoid any pluck+ or j]k+2 sometimes a =k lev]1 ) ! tappet or wip] work+ betwe5 ! prongs ( ! =k1 is us$ = ! same purpose4 ,= a d\ble-act+ ma*9e d\ble wip] tappets1 act+ on lev]s or treadles1 are sometimes us$1 ! griffes fall+ ( _! own weight2 ! tappets are ne>ly r\nd ecc5trics1 or l pla9 tappets ) a v %ort dwell1 n m ?an "o-f\r? ( a revolution ( ! crank %aft4 ,x may !re=e be consid]$ t ! h>ness %\ld always be mov+ ei!r up or d[n1 ) a small pause :5 ! griffes are at ! top & bottom1 to admit ( an easy turn & to all[ ! %uttle "t = its passage ?r\gh ! %$4 ,) ! crank drive ! %$ w require to be op5$ a little wid] ?an if ! dwell 0 z great z x %\ld be1 especially 9 wide looms1 9 ord] to let ! %uttle get ?r\gh freely2 b x w\ld be m desirable1 & a sav+ ( /ra9 on ! y>n1 to h ! dwell great]1 & n op5 ! %$ any wid] ?an is necess>y to admit ! %uttle4 ,speak+ g5]ally1 ! usual rule = ! "t ( %$d+ may be said to be to let ! %$ be clos$ :5 ! cranks ( ! loom are at ! top c5tre1 or p]haps "o-sixte5? ( a revolution f>!r =w>d1 & let ! %$ be full op5 :5 ! cranks are ab\t ! bottom c5tre4 ,x !re=e foll[s t ! s+le-act+ jacqu>d mu/ op5 ! %$ 9 a little less ?an half a revolution ( ! crank %aft1 & close x 9 ! same "t2 b ! d\ble-act+ ma*9e takes ne>ly a full revolution 7?ree-qu>t]s1 or a little m1 %\ld d7 to ei!r rise or let fall "o ( ! griffes4 ,x w be evid5t t !re is a consid]able diff]5ce 9 ! nature ( ! %$d+4 ,a s+le-act+ ma*9e requires ! weft to be beat5 up on a clos$ %$ 7! "t ( ! crank 9 com+ f ! top to ! front c5tre be+ tak5 up ) ris+ ! griffe f ! bottom up to cat* ! hooks71 :]eas 9 a d\ble-act+ ma*9e ! case is diff]5t2 ?\gh ! %$ is clos$ at ! same place1 or 9 ! same position ( ! cranks1 ! griffes are 9 an entirely diff]5t position4 ,! clos$ %$ ) ! s+le-act+ jacqu>d is :5 ! griffe is d[n1 b ) ! d\ble-act+ ma*9e x is :5 ! two griffes are on a level--t is1 halfway up4 ,( c\rse1 m or less ( ! y>n may be at ! bottom position1 s t !re may be no clos$ %$1 or 9 no position ( ! griffes may ! y>n be all on a level1 unless none ( ! hooks are on ei!r ( ! griffes1 or if "o griffe has all ! hooks on x4 ,:5 ! s+le-act+ ma*9e beg9s to op5 ! %$1 ! driv+-crank ( ! griffe is upright or at ! top c5tre1 & 9 ! position to give ! sl[e/ motion to ! griffe2 :]eas = ! d\ble ma*9e ! lift+ cranks are horizontal :5 ! %$ is clos$1 & 9 ! position to give ! griffes ! quicke/ motion2 !re=e1 :5 ! lay gets to ! fell ( ! clo? 9 a s+le-act+ ma*9e1 ! %$ is /ill close1 :]eas ) a d\ble-act+ ma*9e x is fully half op54 ,f ?is x foll[s t1 to get a close cov]$ clo?1 ! d\ble-act+ ma*9e is ! bett]1 z ! weft is beat5 up 9 a cross$ %$2 b to get a clean-surfac$ fabric1 ) ! weft ly+ /raight betwe5 ! two portions ( ! w>p1 ! s+le-act+ jacqu>d is bett]4 ,x is = ?is reason t ! s+le-act+ ma*9e is pref]r$ by _m workm5 = mak+ f9e damask1 :i* does n require mu* cov]+ to give x a good appe>ance1 & !re is less *ance ( hav+ cut weft & ( loop+ :5 /rik+ on ! op5 %$4 ,( c\rse ! weft may be cut 9 a h>d fabric by ! re$ hav+ to /rike too heavily aga9/ x1 & 9 ?is case /rik+ on a cross$ %$ might prev5t ! cutt+1 by ! weft go+ on easi]4 ,9 h&-loom l95 damask ! %ot is /ruck up :5 ! %$ is ab\t half clos$2 ! w>p is held s firm 9 ! loom t !re is no spr+ 9 x1 & ! weft does n reb\nd4 ,a clean] surface is ?us made on ! clo? ?an if ! weft 0 /ruck up 9 a clos$ or cross %$4 ,9 a s+le-act+ ma*9e ! faults 9 ! clo? are m readily se5 ?an ) a d\ble-act+ "o1 z1 9 case ( a hook miss+ ! knife1 9 a s+le ma*9e x w\ld %[ 9 a %ort "t1 :]eas 9 a d\ble-lift ma*9e "o hook ( ! pair might be miss+ ! knife & ! o!r tak+ x1 s t x might be "s "t be=e x w\ld be obs]v$4 ,"o ( ! tail cords break+ might h a simil> effect4 ,! =ego+ gives a g5]al description ( work+ ! jacqu>d2 b no h>d-&-fa/ l9es c be laid d[n--a little v>iation may be necess>y at any "t1 to suit circum/ances & ! class ( "w4 ,,jacqu>d ,,/op ,,motion ,:5 work+ ) two cyl9d]s1 "o may happ5 to be turn$ at a "t :5 x %\ld n1 & ?us put ! c>ds out ( rotation4 ,_m attempts h be5 made to ov]come ?is difficulty by /opp+ ! loom :5 ! c>ds get out ( ! prop] ord]1 b none ( ! me?ods adopt$ h ev] ga9$ mu* fav\r4 ,rec5tly a new motion has be5 pat5t$1 & is be+ appli$ to ma*9es by ,messrs4 ,devoge ,co41 ( ,man*e/]4 ,x is call$ ! #8,devoge jacqu>d /op motion4' ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dd ,fig4 #dd %[s h[ x may be appli$ to a ma*9e4 ,! hooks ,a & ,b & ! ne$les ,e & ,f are ^? "h us$ to "w ! motion4 ,!y may be at ei!r side ( ! ma*9e1 b %\ld be at ! side ( ! belt h&le4 ,"o hook mu/ belong to ! front cyl9d] ne$les1 & ! o!r to ! back ones4 ,! hook ,a requires a l+o atta*$ to x to draw x d[n aft] be+ lift$4 ,! hook ,b is atta*$ to a lev] connect$ to ! side ( ! loom1 s t :5 "o end is rais$ a hamm] on ! o!r end pu%es (f ! belt h&le 7a lev] & bracket are suppli$ = ! purpose74 ,c ,c#a is a wire bell-crank lev] ) a turn or loop on x at ,d to act z a spr+4 ,! fulcrum is at ,l1 on a piece ( iron bolt$ to ! edge ( ! ma*9e2 ! l[] end ( ?is lev] passes ?r\gh an eye 9 ! hook ,a at ,c#a1 & ! upp] end passes ?r\gh an eye 9 ! ne$le ,e4 ,!re is a spr+ on ! po9t ( ! ne$le ,e1 betwe5 ! face-plate & ! eye1 :i* ! lev] goes ?r\gh1 & :i* holds ! ne$le back z %[n4 ,ea* "t ! hook ,a is rais$ ! lev] presses =w>d ! ne$le ,e1 & ) x ! hook ,b1 :i* w\ld !n be rais$ by ! l[] griffe1 unless ! c>d press$ ! ne$le back aga9 & pu%$ x (f4 ,?us1 by hav+ a hole cut 9 ! c>ds = ! ne$le ,f1 & none = ! ne$le ,e1 ! hook ,b w\ld nev] be rais$2 b if a hole is cut = ,e 9 a c>d foll[+ "o 9 :i* a hole 0 cut = ,f1 ! hook ,b w\ld be rais$ & ! loom /opp$4 ,x is1 !re=e1 only necess>y to arrange ! cutt+ ( ! c>ds to all[ ! loom to "w :5 !y are foll[+ ea* o!r 9 rotation2 b z soon z "o c>d gets out ( ord] ! loom %\ld be /opp$1 ?\gh1 p]haps1 n till x has run = a few %ots4 ,?us-- ,numb] ( c>ds-- #a #c #e #g #i #aa -- -- -- -- -- -- ,o ,o ,o ,cut ! l>ge dots = ! ne$le ,e4 #b #d #f #h #aj #ab -- -- -- -- -- -- ,o ,o ,o ,cut ! l>ge dots = ! ne$le ,f4 ,?is gives a repeat ( twelve c>ds2 b any numb] to suit may be us$4 ,?us-- ,numb] ( c>ds-- #a #c #e #g #i #aa #ac #ae -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- ,o ,o ,o ,o ,o ,cut ! l>ge dots = ! ne$le ,e4 ,numb] ( c>ds-- #b #d #f #h #aj #ab #ad #af -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- ,o ,o ,o ,cut ! l>ge dots = ! ne$le ,f4 ,?is gives a repeat ( sixte5 c>ds4 ,! ev5 numb]s ( c>ds g to ! front or top cyl9d]1 & ! odd numb]s to ! l[ cyl9d]1 & x may be se5 t a hole 9 an ev5-numb]$ c>d foll[+ "o 9 an odd-numb]$ c>d w n /op ! loom2 b a hole 9 an odd numb] foll[+ "o 9 an ev5 numb] w /op ! loom1 z x is ! hook ,b ris+ aft] ,a t /ops x2 !re=e any suitable rotation ( cutt+ may be adopt$1 & ! /oppage c take place ei!r at %ort or long int]vals1 z desir$1 ! pr9ciple be+ to raise ! hook ,a two or ?ree times1 & pu% ! hook ,b back aga9 by hav+ no hole cut = ! ne$le ,e4 ,!n leave ,a d[n = ?ree or f\r %ots1 & cut holes = ,e1 :i* h no effect unless ! c>ds get out ( rotation1 & "o ( ^? ) a hole cut to raise ! hook ,a comes be=e "o ) a hole cut = ! ne$le ,e1 :5 ,b w be rais$ & ! loom /opp$4 ,?is is a good arrangem5t1 & works v well4 ,ano!r motion = a simil> purpose1 inv5t$ by ! writ]1 is %[n 9 ,fig4 #de4 ,x is bas$ on ! foll[+ pr9ciple3 ,suppose a cord is tak5 f any two hooks ( ! jacqu>d1 & pass$ r\nd a pulley on ! #8h\nd tail' or long lev] ( ! weft =k motion2 if ! cord is left slack1 s t rais+ "o ( ! hooks w j tight5 x1 !n rais+ bo? hooks toge!r w lift ! lev]1 & c be made to /op ! loom4 ,! difficulty to be got ov] is t "o ( ! hooks mu/ belong to "o griffe1 & ! o!r to ! o!r "o1 9 ord] to make ! motion act ) ! two sets ( c>ds4 ,z ! two griffes pass ea* o!r at ! c5tre1 or at ! half-lift1 ?is mu/ be tak5 z ! full lift1 ! cord mu/ be /opp$ "h1 & n drawn any f>!r2 = ! rema9+ portion ( ! lift ! hooks mu/ draw a spr+4 ,?is c be easily arrang$ by hav+ loops on ! cord pass+ r\nd wires 9 ! cumb] bo>d1 or by hav+ ! two ends ( ! cord pass+ ?r\gh a small hole bo>d1 & hav+ knots or beads on !m1 b5ea? x4 ,o!r me?ods may also be adopt$4 ,"o ( ! mo/ desirable arrangem5ts is %[n 9 ! figure3 ,a1 ,a are ! two hooks2 ,b1 ,b are two small spr+s by :i* ! two lev]s1 ,c1 ,c are atta*$ to ! hooks ) cords2 ,d is ! frame = hold+ ! lev]s1 & is fa/5$ to ! top rail ( ! loom1 "u ! jacqu>d1 or 9 any conv5i5t place4 ,x w be obs]v$ t ! front b> ( ! frame passes above ! lev]s1 s t x w prev5t !m ris+ above ! half-draw ( ! hooks1 9 :i* position !y are %[n4 ,e1 ,e are two cords connect$ ) a jack or tumbl]1 ,f1 on ! end ( a bell-crank lev]1 ,g ,h ,l1 hav+ its fulcrum at ,h1 :i* may be on ! same /ud z ! weft =k lev]1 or 9 any conv5i5t place4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #de ,! weight ( ,f & ,g keeps ! cords 9 t5sion1 & ! po9t ,l ( ! lev] is set beh9d ! lev] on ! loom :i* c>ries ! weft =k1 at su* a di/ance f x t :5 "o ( ! cords ,e is drawn x does n act on x2 b :5 bo? hooks are rais$1 draw+ up ! two cords1 ! po9t ,l ( ! lev] presses aga9/ ! weft =k lev]1 pu%+ (f ! belt h&le & /opp+ ! loom4 ,! lev] ,g ,h ,l may act directly on ! belt h&le1 if desir$2 9 ?is case x w\ld be fix$ outside ! loom fram+4 ,! c>ds are cut on ! same pr9ciple z = ! la/ motion1 b ! same holes w d 9 bo? sets ( c>ds1 z ! two ne$les are act$ ^u by ! same numb] ( holes 9 bo? back & front sets2 t is1 = two hooks com+ beside ea* o!r4 ,! foll[+ ord] ( cutt+ w answ]3-- ,numb] ( c>ds-- #a #c #e #g #b #d #f #h --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- ,o ,o ,o ,o ,cut ! l>ge dots on ! numb] ( c>ds giv51 & ( c\rse !y mu/ be cut to suit ! ne$les connect$ ) ! hooks us$4 ,! above gives a cont9u\s work+ ( ! motion1 b x w\ld be suffici5t = x to "w at int]vals hav+ #h or #aj %ots betwe5 !m1 z-- ,numb] ( c>ds-- #a #c #e #g #i #aa #ac #ae #ag #ai #b #d #f #h #aj #ab #ad #af #ah #bj ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,o ,o ,o ,o ,o ,o ,?is w n all[ ! loom to run = m ?an #bj %ots aft] ! c>ds get out ( ord]4 ,"s o!r motions are 9 use1 b ^! are simpl]4 ,be=e describ+ twill+ ma*9es or any special make ( jacqu>ds1 x may p]haps be bett] to expla9 ! m\nt+ ( ord9>y ma*9es1 accord+ to ! usual me?ods adopt$ 9 "s ( ! lead+ di/ricts4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,full-,,h>ness ,,m\nt+s ,! m\nt+s t w be allud$ to 9 ?is section are all int5d$ = #8full h>ness'2 t is1 ! ord9>y me?od ( jacqu>d weav+ :5 appli$ to su* fabrics z damask1 dress goods1 &1 9 _m cases1 to d\ble clo?s1 h&k]*iefs1 c4 ,full h>ness1 or1 z x is t]m$ 9 "s h&-loom di/ricts1 %ot & draft1 to di/+ui% x f ! #8pressure h>ness' sy/em1 holds ! fir/ place among/ m\nt+s1 z by x c be done :at _c be done by any o!r me?od1 & ev]y?+ c be done by x t c be done by any h>ness1 or comb9ation ( h>ness or h$dles2 ?\gh x does n foll[ t x w\ld be desirable to adopt x 9 e case4 ,9 a full h>ness ea* ?read 9 any "p ( ! tie c be lift$ indep5d5tly ( ! o!rs2 9 wide fabrics1 or 9 ord] to r$uce exp5se 9 n>r[ ones1 rec\rse is _h to ga!r+ or repeat+ ! tie1 & l ?reads 9 ea* repeat mu/ be lift$ toge!r2 b 9 a s+le tie any "o ?read c be lift$ indep5d5tly ( any o!r4 ,9 full h>ness !re is "o ?read ( w>p drawn into ea* mail or eye ( ! h>ness1 & "o %ot is giv5 to ea* *ange ( c>d4 ,o!r descriptions ( h>nesses are kn[n z #8half h>ness1' #8split h>ness1' #8pressure h>ness1' #8gauze h>ness1' d\ble-clo? & quilt h>nesses1 c4 ,half h>ness is ! t]m appli$ to t description ( h>ness 9 :i* ! half ( ! w>p 7e alt]nate ?read7 is drawn into ! h>ness1 & ! o!r half passes ?r\gh x loosely4 ,?is is mo/ly to be f\nd 9 ! manufacture ( gauze or l5o curta9s1 & is wr\ght ) a %aft m\nt+ 9 front ( ! h>ness4 ,split h>ness is appli$ :5 two ?reads are gov]n$ by ea* hook ( ! jacqu>d1 & ! gr\nd ( ! clo? is wr\ght by "s o!r means1 z %afts ?r\gh ! h>ness4 ,?is is to be f\nd 9 ! silk trade4 ,pressure h>ness is :5 sev]al ?reads ( w>p are drawn into ea* mail1 & :5 ! h>ness is drawn x rema9s /ation>y = sev]al %ots ( gr\nd texture1 = :i* ! %$s are sprung or press$ op5 by h$dles4 ,gauze h>ness is a h>ness fitt$ up ) d\ps = weav+ l5o & gauze1 & is mo/ly full h>ness4 ,d\ble-clo? & quilt h>nesses are = weav+ ^! fabrics4 ,m\nt+1 or gait+1 is a t]m t may be tak5 to apply to ! build+ ( ! h>ness & ! prep>+ ( ev]y?+ 9 connection ) x4 ,! =m ( #8tie' to be adopt$ w dep5d to a great ext5t on ! nature ( ! fabric to be made1 & to ! /yle ( patt]n :i* is to be appli$ to x4 ,= in/ance1 dress goods may be requir$1 & ! patt]n may consi/ ( small sprigs or objects repeat$ ov] ! surface ( ! clo?1 =m+ a simple repeat+ patt]n4 ,aga91 h&k]*iefs1 napk9s1 or table-cov]s may be want$1 :i* w require a bord]$ #8tie1' & may h bo? s+le & d\ble m\nt+ 9 !m4 ,sometimes ! manufactur] m\nts 8 looms to :at he consid]s a desirable #8tie' 7or arrangem5t ( cords7 to admit ( hav+ a good v>iety ( patt]ns wr\ght on x = :atev] class ( goods he is likely to make1 & !n he has ! patt]ns made to suit ! tie or m\nt+4 ,sometimes patt]ns are procur$ :i* w give ! be/ possible effect on ! lea/ possible ma*9]y1 or ! lea/ numb] ( hooks ( ! jacqu>d1 & ! m\nt+ is !n arrang$ to suit ! patt]n4 ,on ?is me?od (t5 a v consid]able sav+ ( ma*9]y c be effect$ by turn+ ov] or ga!r+ ! h>ness2 or1 by arrang+ a v>iety ( turns ov]1 or ga!rs1 & repeats1 a v div]sifi$ effect c be obta9$ ) a small numb] ( hooks1 z ^? accu/om$ to ! l>g] =ms ( %aft m\nt+s w readily und]/&4 ,?us1 if we take #ajj hooks ( ! jacqu>d z equal to #ajj %afts1 x w easily be und]/ood t a l>ge v>iety ( beautiful patt]ns c be produc$ ) ei!r a /raight or zigzag draft1 ?\gh !y w be mo/ly ( a set or conv5tional type4 ,! objection to m\nt+ a loom 9 ?is way is1 t if a *ange ( patt]n to a free or runn+ /yle is requir$1 x is necess>y to cut d[n ! h>ness & rem\nt x1 probably requir+ new ma*9]y z well4 ,x may1 h[ev]1 suit to adopt bo? me?ods2 t is1 to h a few looms = work+ conv5tional patt]ns on small jacqu>ds1 say #bjj hooks1 & o!rs m\nt$ = free patt]ns requir+1 say1 #djj or #fjj hooks 9 ! ma*9e4 ,( c\rse ?is entirely dep5ds on ! nature ( ! ord]s likely to be receiv$1 & manufactur]s mu/ use _! own judgm5t1 9 :i*1 h[ev]1 !y are m likely to err on ! n>r[ ?an on ! lib]al side ( ! "q1 ! result be+ cramp$ & /iff patt]ns1 ) a probable loss in/ead ( ga94 ,two /yles ( m\nt+ h>ness are 9 g5]al use--"o1 kn[n z ! #8,london tie1' be+ us$ 9 ,spitalfields by ! silk weav]s2 ! o!r is call$ ! #8,norwi* tie1' z x 0 !re adopt$ 9 ! e>ly days ( weav+4 ,ab\t #ahcj ! ,norwi* /yle 0 adopt$ 9 ,london1 z ! weav]s' h\ses 7 too l[ to admit ( ! jacqu>ds be+ set high en\gh to suit ! ,london me?od1 :i*1 hav+ a qu>t]-twi/ 9 ! h>ness1 requires m height ?an is necess>y = ! ,norwi* sy/em1 9 :i* ! h>ness passes direct f ! jacqu>d to ! cumb] bo>d 9 flat r[s )\t any twi/4 ,! ,h>ness4--,:5 ab\t to m\nt a loom ! fir/ process is to prep>e ! h>ness4 ,a h>ness is built up ( sev]al p>ts1 ! me?ods ( prep>+ & build+ v>y+ 9 diff]5t di/ricts4 ,a few ( ! be/ me?ods w be giv54 ,fig4 #df1 ,nos4 #a1 #b1 & #c1 %[ a complete cord ( ! h>ness 9 ?ree me?ods ( prep>+ x--,a 7,nos4 #a & #b7 are ! tail or tug cords loop$ to ! hooks ( ! jacqu>d2 ^! cords are only necess>y on d\ble-lift ma*9es1 & are usually put on by ! ma*9e-mak]s4 ,!y are made ( twi/$ cotton1 & are s(t & pliable4 ,l %[s ! knot1 kn[n z ! #8tug knot1' by :i* ! tail cords are loop$ on ! hooks4 ,b1 ,b are two me?ods ( knott+ ! neck or body ( ! h>ness to ! tail cords2 t 9 ,no4 #a is ! usual me?od4 ,c1 ,c are ! hecks1 or guide re$s1 ?r\gh :i* ! h>ness passes4 ,g1 ,g are ! l+oes1 or leads1 =m]ly made ( /rips ( lead1 b n[ ( wire4 ,f ! l+o to ! mail or eye1 ,f1 ?r\gh :i* ! w>p passes1 is a d\ble cord call$ ! bottom piece1 or hang]4 ,f ! mail1 pass+ ?r\gh ! cumb] bo>d or h>ness re$ ,e1 is ano!r piece ( d\ble cord1 call$ ! top or mid-piece1 or ! #8sleep]'2 to ?is is loop$ or ti$ ! neck tw9e 9 v>i\s ways1 two me?ods ( :i* are %[n at ,d d d#a 7,no4 #a7 & at ,d 7,no4 #b72 ,no4 #c %[s levell+ bel[ ! cumb] bo>d1 ) two me?ods = ty+ ,h & ,h#a4 ,m is ! snit* knot1 :i* is mu* us$ = fa/5+ cords t require c>eful adju/+4 ,sometimes x is a matt] ( *oice to adopt any me?od ( m\nt+1 & sometimes "o plan may suit circum/ances bett] ?an ano!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #df ,prep>+ ,l+oes4--,a prep>$ l+o is %[n at ,no4 #d1 ,fig4 #df1 ?is "w be+ g5]ally done by little boys or girls1 or by old wom54 ,"o ( ! commone/ me?ods ( prep>+ !m is z foll[s3--,hav+ prep>$ ! mails1 :i* are small eyelets ( brass1 copp]1 or /eel ( ! %ape %[n at ,f1 sometimes ) r\nd holes 9 ! c5tre & sometimes ) elliptical or long %ap$ ones1 !y are put into a di% or pan2 a boy takes a piece ( wire & /r+s a numb] ( !m on x4 ,! wire is !n fa/5$ on a rack1 or 9 any conv5i5t place1 by bo? ends1 9 a horizontal position4 ,a bun* ( small pieces ( tw9e is ti$ up 9 a conv5i5t place2 ^! are to =m ! hang]s1 or to connect ! l+oes ) ! mails4 ,hav+ ! l+oes conv5i5tly plac$1 & be+ provid$ ) a pair ( %e>s1 ! boy sets to "w4 ,tak+ a piece ( tw9e1 & pull+ x ?r\gh an end hole ( a mail1 he d\bles x ev5ly1 &1 lift+ a l+o1 puts bo? ends ?r\gh ! eye 9 x1 & ca/s on a knot1 z %[n at ,n 7,no4 #d74 ,! loop on ! tw9e !re %[n requires to be pu%$ up ov] ! top ( ! l+o1 !n drawn tight1 & ! ends clipp$ (f4 ,?is mail is !n pu%$ along ! wire1 & ! o!rs proce$$ )4 ,! pieces ( tw9e = =m+ ! hang]s1 z well z ! sleep]s1 are prep>$ by w>p+ !m (f spools r\nd two p9s1 & !n cutt+ !m across4 ,( c\rse ! p9s mu/ be set ap>t at su* a di/ance z w suit ! l5g? ( ! sleep]s & hang]s requir$4 ,! usual l5g? ( ! hang] 7:5 d\bl$7 is #g or #h 941 & t ( ! sleep] or mid-piece :5 x passes ?r\gh ! cumb] bo>d1 z 9 ,nos4 #a & #b1 ,fig4 #df1 & z %[n at ,no4 #d1 is #ae or #af 94 ,:5 a quantity ( l+oes are hung on ! mails1 ! top cords or sleep]s may be put ?r\gh ! top holes 9 ! mails1 & ti$ ) a weav]'s knot1 ! ends be+ neatly clipp$ (f4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dg ,a quick] me?od ( prep>+ l+oes is z foll[s3--,two upright pieces ( iron1 z ,a1 ,a1 ,fig4 #dg1 are fa/5$ on a bo>d1 or on a b5* or table4 ,a cut is made 9 ea* ( ^!1 s z to hold a piece ( flat wire su* z is us$ = co>se re$s4 ,?is wire is po9t$ at "o end1 s t by tak+ a h&ful ( mails !y c easily be ga!r$ up on x4 ,x is !n plac$ 9 position1 z %[n at ,b2 ! mails1 ,d1 are %[n on x1 & ,c is a spool conta9+ tw9e = ! hang]s4 ,by rubb+ ! end ( ?is tw9e ) wax1 s z to /iff5 x1 & ga!r+ all ! mails on ! wire ev5ly toge!r1 ! end ( ! tw9e may be run ?r\gh ! holes 9 all ( !m at once4 ,?is end is fa/5$1 & ) a hook1 z %[n at ,f1 ! tw9e c be drawn ?r\gh ! mails1 beg9n+ at ! "o f>!/ away f ! spool1 & pass+ f "o to ! o!r 9 succession1 loop+ ! tw9e r\nd ! p9 ,e1 :i* %\ld be at su* a di/ance f ! mails z is requir$ to make ! hang]s ! prop] l5g?4 ,if _m mails are to be ?read$ at once !re %\ld be two or ?ree p9s z ,e1 s z to avoid too mu* slope f !m to ! mails1 :i* w\ld increase ! l5g? ( ! hang]s4 ,! tw9e c be cut :5 ! mails on ! wire are complet$1 & ! o!r ends ( ! mails turn$ r\nd & treat$ simil>ly = ! sleep]s2 b ! pegs w require to be %ift$1 s z to get ! requir$ l5g? ( tw9e4 ,:5 f9i%$1 ^! c be cut also1 & ! wire ti$ up 9 a conv5i5t place1 s t ! l+oes may be hung on1 z be=e describ$4 ,! sleep]s c !n be knott$1 if requir$ to be4 ,aft] ! l+oes are ?us prep>$ ! tw9e is frequ5tly v>ni%$1 & sometimes twi/$ s z to prev5t t ( ! hang]s f ris+ up ?r\gh ! hole ( ! mail & gett+ 9 betwe5 ! two halves ( ! y>n :5 ! %$ is cross+4 ,?is frequ5tly happ5s if any?+ prev5ts ! l+o f dropp+4 ,a common me?od ( twi/+ !m is = a boy to give !m a coat ( fl\r-pa/e or a light coat ( v>ni%1 !n1 hav+ !m hung on a rod :i* passes ?r\gh ! loops ( ! sleep]s1 he takes a h&ful ( ! l+oes1 &1 plac+ !m on 8 knee1 rolls !m r\nd ) 8 h& till !y are suffici5tly twi/$1 !n lets !m hang d[n1 & proce$s ) ano!r h&ful4 ,:5 ! pa/e or v>ni% on ^! is set !y c be well v>ni%$4 ,ab\t two in*es at ! top ( ! sleep]s mu/ be left )\t v>ni%1 to leave x s(t & pliable = ty+ ! neck to2 ! knots on all ! sleep]s mu/ be br\ght up to ab\t ! po9t be=e !y are twi/$ or v>ni%$4 ,:5 ! l+oes are ?us prep>$ & dry !y c be ti$ 9 bun*es1 to be us$ z requir$4 ,"s d n v>ni% ! tw9es till ! h>ness is all m\nt$1 & !n v>ni% x all ov]4 ,o!rs d n v>ni% at all4 ,9 ?is case ! hang]s are n twi/$1 & = light op5 sets ( h>ness !y ne$ n be twi/$ at any "t4 ,,l+oes ,,or ,,leads ,= pressure h>ness "w ! weights = draw+ d[n ! h>ness 7 orig9ally made ( lead1 ab\t ! l5g? & ?ickness ( a ?9 p5cil1 b tap]+ to ! l[] end4 ,! weight v>i$ ) ! numb] ( ends to ! mail1 ! /r5g? ( ! y>n1 & ! weight ( ! clo? to be made1 rang+ f #aj to #ah p] lb41 or light] if = f9e h&-loom "w4 ,= a l95 damask z =m]ly made1 ) #f or #h ?reads 9 ! mail1 a v heavy lead 0 requir$1 ev5 9 ! h& loom1 :il/ a f9e cotton two-?read h>ness w\ld d ) a comp>atively light l+o4 ,/rips ( lead cut f %eets 7 us$ = light] weights2 ^! 7 !n r$uc$ to ! prop] size = draw+ !m ?r\gh holes 9 /eel plates4 ,n[1 l+oes = p[] looms are made ( wire1 & = ord9>y damask or full h>ness "w %\ld range f #be to #dj to ! lb42 = heavi] "w1 su* z l95 t[els1 wor/$s1 c41 #af or #ah p] lb41 accord+ to ! weight ( ! fabric1 are requir$4 ,light] ones answ] = h& looms3 ,murphy m5tions z light z #aaj p] lb4 = ! c5tres ( %awls1 b #ce to #fj p] lb4 w be m frequ5tly f\nd4 #be's to #cj's are a good size = p[] looms2 #ab 94 long = #be's or #cj's1 #ad 94 = #af's or #ah's1 & #af 94 = #aj's or #ab's are good l5g?s4 ,:5 !re is a great slope 9 ! bord] tw9es ( a h>ness1 x is (t5 necess>y to put heavi] l+oes on x ?an on ! c5tre1 to keep ! w>p d[n4 ,( c\rse1 ! less weight t has to be lift$ is always a sav+ ( p[]1 & easi] on ! h>ness2 !re=e x is bett] to h two sizes ( l+oes ?an to h !m all weighty en\gh = ! bord]s4 ,,h>ness ,,tw9e ,! size ( h>ness tw9e us$ v>ies greatly2 "s pref] a f9e1 & o!rs a heavy1 tw9e4 ,= ! sleep]s & hang]s1 #d ply ( #bb's or #e ply ( #cj's l95 y>n is a v good m$ium size1 & #d ply ( #ad's or #e ply ( #ah's or #bj's is a v good size = ! neck or body ( ! h>ness4 ,sometimes1 = heavy damask1 cable cord is us$ = ! body ( ! h>ness1 & is a good we>+ cord2 x is especially suit$ :5 ! neck cords are fa/5$ to ! sleep]s bel[ ! cumb] bo>d4 ,?is cord is made ( good flax y>n2 #e ply ( #cj's are twi/$ toge!r1 & ?ree ( ^! cords are !n twi/$ toge!r1 or #c ply ( #ah's aft]w>ds made #c ply4 ,a bett] size = m$ium "w is #e ply ( #ce's made #c ply1 or #c ply ( #bj's or #bb's made #c ply4 ,heavy h>ness tw9e requires to h heavi] l+oes1 p>ticul>ly on ^? p>ts ( ! h>ness t are mu* slant$1 9 ord] to h ! same effect on !m t !y w\ld h on light tw9e4 ,"s g to ! opposite extreme1 & use v light tw9e1 su* z #d ply ( #cj's1 :i* is only fit = v light "w 9 a n>r[ loom1 :]e !re w be b little friction on ! cumb] bo>d1 & :]e no heck is requir$4 ,light] tw9e w suit bett] = a h& loom ?an = a p[] loom2 #d ply ( #cj's = ! h>ness ( a h& loom1 ) l+oes ( #ej or #fj to ! lb41 w\ld d v well = a light cotton w>p4 ,,sett+ ,,! ,,jacqu>d ,! prop] position = ! jacqu>d1 :5 only "o is requir$ on ! loom1 is s t ! c5tre hook 9 x w be above ! c5tre hole ( ! cumb] bo>d4 ,?is c easily be f\nd by ty+ a plumb l9e to ! c5tre hook ( ! ma*9e & mov+ x1 if necess>y1 till ! plummet re/s ov] ! c5tre ( ! cumb] bo>d4 ,9 case ! cumb] bo>d is n fix$ 9 position1 t ( ! jacqu>d may be f\nd by hav+ ! plumb l9e to pass ab\t half an in* m ?an ! half bread? ( ! h>ness at ! cumb] bo>d beh9d ! top rail ( ! lay :5 x is full back1 & x %\ld also be at equal di/ances f ea* side ( ! loom4 ,:5 m ?an "o jacqu>d is requir$1 !y %\ld be arrang$ ev5ly ov] ! cumb] bo>d1 & z close toge!r z possible4 ,sometimes ! jacqu>d may be set f>!r =w>d or back to suit circum/ances1 su* z gett+ c>d space1 ! only disadvantage be+ t !re w be m slant+ ( ! cords at "o side ?an ! o!r1 & m friction on !m 9 ! cumb] bo>d1 also m drag on ! hooks on ?is side if no heck is us$1 & if a heck is us$ ! cords w h to be> ! friction on x4 ,! m direct ! cords ( ! h>ness c be1 ! bett]1 & ! above sett+ ( ! jacqu>d %\ld be adh]$ to :5 possible1 b x is n absolutely necess>y = work+ to h x s4 ,x is always well to h ! jacqu>ds s arrang$ t !y c be rais$ or l[]$ a little by hav+ !m re/+ on b>s1 :i* c be rais$ or l[]$ ) screws4 ,?is is 9 case ! h>ness is levell$ high] or l[] ?an might aft]w>ds be desir$2 b if ! brea/ beam ( ! loom1 ) ! lay & back rail1 c be rais$ or l[]$1 x w suit ! same purpose1 & x is bett] n to move ! ma*9e once x is fix$ & ! h>ness ti$ up4 ,! height ! jacqu>d is to be above ! loom mu/ 9 _m cases be regulat$ by circum/ances2 = in/ance1 ! height ( ! ro(1 or if ! beams ( ! ro( int]f]e ) ! work+ ( x2 sometimes ! ma*9es re/ on ! fram+ ( ! loom--t is1 if ! loom is made = a jacqu>d--& sometimes pla9 looms are us$1 & ! ma*9es re/ on beams support$ f columns1 or f ! ro( ( ! h\se4 ,?is latt] is ! be/ plan1 z x keeps ! jacqu>d free f ! %ak+ ( ! loom1 :i* is p>ticul>ly useful 9 ! case ( looms fitt$ ) ! knock-(f motion4 ,a good height = a jacqu>d1 indep5d5t ( circum/ances1 is to h #h ft4 or #h ft4 #f 94 f ! mails to ! bottoms ( ! hooks = a #aj_/d loom--t is1 "o ) ab\t #ajj 94 re$ space2 #g ft4 to #g ft4 #f 94 = an #h_/d 7#hb 94 re$ space71 & #e ft4 #f 94 to #f ft4 = a #d_/d 7#dj 94 or #db 94 re$ space71 are v good heights4 #e ft4 #f 94 is ab\t "r = a n>r[ h>ness1 say #bj 94 to #bg 94 wide2 #f ft4 w\ld d = #hj 94 wide1 & #g ft4 or #g ft4 #f 94 = #ij 94 wide1 if necess>y4 ,,hecks ,,or ,,guide ,,re$s ,a heck is a frame ( h>d wood ) wires across x1 a wire = ea* r[ ( hooks 9 ! ma*9e1 f back to front4 ,x %\ld be made to suit ! ma*9e1 s t :5 ! h>ness passes f ! hooks betwe5 ! wires1 x w g v]tically d[n1 & h no slant 9 x4 ,9 n>r[ hecks1 !re is usually "o cross-/ay to support ! wires1 b = broad] ma*9es !re %\ld be at lea/ two4 ,! wire %\ld be iron1 z brass soon cuts ) ! friction ( ! cords1 & !n 9 turn cuts ! cords4 ,= a s+le-act+ ma*9e ! wires %\ld be loose1 s t !y c roll ) ! cords2 b = a d\ble-act+ ma*9e ?is w\ld be ( no advantage1 z a portion ( ! cords are fall+ :5 ! rema9d] are ris+4 ,if ! ma*9e is v wide1 or has to be set =w>d or back on ! loom1 !re %\ld be cross roll]s ( h>d wood above ! wires1 at "r angles to !m1 to prev5t ! bottoms ( ! hooks f be+ drawn ei!r backw>ds or =w>ds1 :i* might pu% _! heads on or (f ! griffe knives4 ,sometimes glass roll]s are us$ 9 ! silk trade = ?is purpose1 ) m\nt+s ( ! ,london tie1 & :ile !y are v smoo? & poli% ! tw9es1 !y get too hot if us$ 9 w>m p[]-loom factories work+ at a high spe$4 ,hecks are n requir$ = v n>r[ h>nesses1 z ! cords d n div]ge mu* f ! v]tical1 & ! friction on ! heck be+ sav$1 ! cords we> mu* long]4 ,9 a wide h>ness x is impossible to draw an ev5 %$ )\t a heck1 al?\gh 9 "s di/ricts !y are h>dly kn[n1 & ! m any portion ( ! h>ness div]ges f ! v]tical1 ! m irregul> w ! %$ be4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dh ,suppose we take an extreme case ( a loom hav+ ?ree or f\r jacqu>ds on x1 ! h>ness to be #if 94 wide1 & ! patt]n to be = a table-cov]2 !n1 if we d$uct #b ft4 f ! wid? ( ! h>ness1 x is possible "s ( ! bord] tw9es may h to slant across #f ft41 or #gb 94 ,n[ make a triangle z ,no4 #a1 ,fig4 #dh4 ,let ! base1 ,a ,b1 be #gb 941 & take x z ! level ( ! cumb] bo>d4 ,take ! v]tical side1 ,a ,c1 z ! height ( ! h>ness to ! heck1 viz41 #hd 94 ,n[ calculate ! l5g? ( ! hypot5use ,b ,c by squ>+ #hd & #gb & f9d+ ! squ>e root ( ! sum1 & x w be f\nd to be #aajfc 94 ,aga93 ,make ano!r triangle1 z ,no4 #b1 ) base #gb 942 v]tical side #c-a_/b 94 long] ?an t ( ! =m] triangles1 viz41 #hge 94 7?is #c-a_/b 94 is to repres5t ! draw or lift ( ! h>ness74 ,calculate ! l5g? ( ! hypot5use z be=e1 & x w be f\nd to be #aacca 94 ,f ?is d$uct #aajfc 941 ! l5g? ( ,b ,c 9 ,no4 #a1 & ! rema9d]1 #bfh 941 equals ! height t ! cord ,b ,c has be5 rais$1 :ile ! cord ,a ,c1 :i* is v]tical1 has be5 rais$ #c-a_/b 942 & if we take into consid]ation t ! side draw ( ! slop+ cords1 z ,b ,c1 w pull ! tail cord a little to "o side & rise ! v]tical cords a little high]1 :ile ! slop+ ones rema9 proportionately l[]1 #a 94 may be safely tak5 z ! diff]5ce ( ! height t ! two cords1 ,b ,c & ,a ,c1 w\ld be rais$ by ! jacqu>d1 & all ! o!r cords 9 ! h>ness w\ld v>y1 be+ less ?an ?is 9 proportion to _! div]g5ce f ! /raight or v]tical l9e4 ,x c ?us be se5 h[ ! %$ w\ld require to be op5$ to let ! %uttle ?r\gh1 & ! irregul> /ra9 t w\ld be on ! y>n2 & = any clo? t requires a f9e surface1 any irregul>ity ( /ra9 on ! w>p has a delet]i\s effect1 v well kn[n by exp]i5c$ ov]look]s4 ,"s consid] t ! ,london /yle ( h>ness is m suitable = work+ )\t a heck ?an ! ,norwi* /yle1 & adopt x to avoid us+ "o1 z x is sev]e on ! h>ness tw9es4 ,"s raise ! ma*9es v high to avoid us+ !m1 b = p>ticul> "w ) bord] ties !y mu/ be us$ to give a prop] work+ h>ness4 ,) ! ,london m\nt+ roll]s %\ld be1 & are1 us$ :5 !re is no heck4 ,^! roll]s are set z a co>se heck 9 a frame "u ! ma*9e1 & lie l5g?ways "u x1 j z !y w\ld d :5 us$ above a heck4 ,! heck %\ld be ab\t #c 94 bel[ ! knots :i* fa/5 ! tail cords to ! neck tw9es4 ,"s h ! tugs1 or tail cords1 com+ d[n ?r\gh ! heck2 9 ?is case ! heck only takes ! /ra9 (f ! hooks ( ! ma*9e1 & has no effect on ! %$1 ?\gh sometimes ?is is mitigat$ by hav+ m ?an "o tug or tail cord1 & ! neck tw9es t slant 9 diff]5t directions are ti$ to diff]5t tail cords4 ,! only po9t 9 fav\r ( ?is is t x saves "s tr\ble 9 ty+ brok5 h>ness tw9es :5 !y beg9 to we> away by _! friction on ! heck4 ,,prep>+ ,,! ,,neck ,,( ,,! ,,h>ness ,! tw9e = ! neck1 z well z t = ! o!r portions ( ! h>ness1 is usually w\nd on spools1 & :5 ! neck is to be prep>$ x is w>p$ f ^! spools to ! l5g? requir$1 ei!r on a h& w>p+ mill or r\nd two p9s fa/5$ 9 a wall or on a b5*1 z f> ap>t z ! l5g? ( ! h>ness2 ?ree or f\r spools are put on p9s1 & ! ends f !m are tak5 & w\nd r\nd ! p9s fix$ = w>p+ !m on4 ,:5 w>p$ ! tw9es may be cut at "o end1 & c ei!r be ti$ 9 a bun* or /ret*$ on a bo>d & ti$ d[n on x1 s t !y may be kept /raight & admit ( any numb] ( !m be+ pull$ out z !y are want$4 ,9 "s me?ods ( m\nt+ ! neck tw9es are fir/ ti$ to ! tail cords2 p]haps ?is is ! plan mo/ commonly adopt$ ) d\ble-act+ ma*9es4 ,sometimes !y are ti$ to ! sleep]s fir/1 & fa/5+ !m to ! tail cords is ! la/ process4 ,?is is call$ #8beet+' ! h>ness4 ,:5 s+le-act+ ma*9es are made ) ! hooks re/+ on a p]=at$ bo>d1 !y h tugs on ! hooks2 b :5 ! wire hooks pass d[n ?r\gh a p]=at$ grat+1 tugs are unnecess>y1 & ! neck tw9es are fa/5$ to ! hooks4 ,:5 fa/5$ to ! hooks1 or ev5 :5 fa/5$ to ! tail cords1 & a heck is n to be us$1 ! neck tw9es %\ld be =m$ into heads1 ei!r be=e !y are ti$ up or aft]w>ds1 z may be desir$4 ,! reason ( ?is is1 t :5 a numb] ( neck tw9es are ti$ to a hook or tail cord1 & ! hook is rais$ by ! ma*9e :5 work+1 ! tw9es w be slant+ 9 diff]5t directions1 & :5 com+ d[n aga9 w\ld be liable to cat* on ! knots ( ^? t 7 n rais$2 & ! head is = ! purpose ( keep+ !m toge!r1 s t !y _c sep>ate = a %ort way d[n4 ,"o me?od ( do+ ?is is1 aft] ! bun* ( neck tw9es is ti$ to a tail cord or hook1 to take "o ( ! tw9es & knot x r\nd ! o!rs ab\t #c-a_/b 94 bel[ ! tail cord1 & ! same may be done ) a second tw9e1 if !re are _m 9 ! p>cel4 ,sometimes ! neck tw9es are all prep>$ 9 heads1 & ! foll[+ is a conv5i5t me?od ( do+ s3--,fa/5 f\r flat p9s ( wood1 z ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d1 ,fig4 #di1 on a bo>d z ,f1 or on ! edge ( a b5* or table4 ,c & ,d are firmly fa/5$1 b ,a & ,b c be turn$ r\nd to ! position %[n by ! dott$ l9es :5 ! screws hold+ !m are slack5$4 ,! di/ance f ,c to ,d mu/ be ! l5g? requir$ = ! neck tw9es4 ,e is ! tw9e com+ f a spool on a wire4 ,! p9 ,a is pu%$ r\nd to ! position %[n by ! dott$ l9e1 & ! tw9e is w>p$ r\nd ,c1 ,b1 ,d1 pass+ ov] ,b & "u ,c1 s z to =m a lease4 ,:5 a suffici5t quantity is w>p$1 ! cross+ ( ! lease is pu%$ up t[>ds ,c1 & ! p9 ,a turn$ r\nd into ! c5tre ( ! tw9es1 tak+ ! place ( ,b1 :i* is turn$ back4 ,! use ( ! two p9s is to all[ room = w>p+1 ,c & ,a be+ too close toge!r4 ,! di/ance f ! outside ( ,c to t ( ,a %\ld be ! l5g? ! head is requir$ to be 7ab\t #c-a_/b 94 or #d 9474 ,! tw9es may n[ be cut at ,d1 & a piece ( cord loop$ r\nd !m & ti$ to ,d1 s z to hold !m /eady1 b all[ !m to be drawn out z requir$4 ,! numb] ( tw9es = ea* head c n[ be drawn out & ti$ r\nd ! two p9s ,c & ,a1 & :5 a numb] are done !y c be slipp$ (f ! p9s & put on cords or rods2 ! lease keeps ! heads 9 ord]1 & ! bun* c be hung up at ! loom1 & ea* head be tak5 9 rotation by ! m\nt]4 ,! numb] ( tw9es = ea* head is regulat$ by ! tie ( ! h>ness4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #di ,suppose a d\ble-act+ ma*9e is to be m\nt$ ) ! h>ness simil> to t %[n 9 ,no4 #a1 ,fig4 #df4 ,! tail cords are usually put on ! ma*9e by ! mak]s1 b if !y are worn out1 or if new cords are requir$1 putt+ !m on is ! fir/ process4 ,?is c be done :5 ! ma*9e is on ! gr\nd1 & ! neck may also be ti$ to ! tail cords be=e ! ma*9e is put on ! loom4 ,"s m\nt]s pref] "o me?od1 & "s ! o!r1 & ! "o :i* mo/ conv5i5tly suits ! circum/ances may be us$4 ,:5 ! neck is atta*$ to ! ma*9e be=e putt+ x on ! loom1 x is usual to turn x on its side on blocks or on a table4 ,if ! ma*9e is on ! loom1 a bo>d is ti$ up to make a seat = ! m\nt]1 & ! bun* ( neck tw9es is fix$ conv5i5t to 8 rea*2 or he may h a boy to draw !m out = him1 & h& him ! numb] he requires4 ,beg9n+ at ! fir/ hook1 he takes a pair ( tail cords1 & hav+ drawn !m d[n /raight & /ret*$ !m firmly1 he loops ! neck tw9es on !m 9 ! way %[n 9 ,fig4 #df1 & draws ! knot fa/4 ,! di/ance f ! bottom ( ! hooks to ! neck tw9es %\ld be #aa 94 or #ab 94 ,! fir/ ( ^! 9 ea* r[ is measur$1 & ! m\nt] c !n regulate ! o!rs s z to h all ! knots 9 a l9e4 ,! numb] ( neck tw9es t are to be ti$ to ea* hook is regulat$ by ! tie ( ! h>ness4 ,= ea* "t t any repeat or portion ( a patt]n is to be repeat$ on ! clo? !re mu/ be a tw9e atta*$ to ^? hooks ( ! ma*9e t are to "w ?is repeat4 ,= in/ance1 if a #djj ma*9e is us$1 & ! patt]n consi/s ( a simple repeat on ^! #djj hooks1 & ?is has to be repeat$ six times on ! clo?1 !n six neck tw9es mu/ be ti$ to ea* hook ( ! ma*9e4 ,aga93 ,! patt]n might be made = a #djj ma*9e1 #bjj hooks to be repeat$ six times1 #ajj f\r times1 & #ajj ?ree times2 !n six tw9es w\ld be ti$ to ! fir/ #bjj hooks1 f\r to ! second set ( hooks 7#ajj71 & ?ree to ! ?ird set 7#ajj71 & any m\nt+ w\ld be regulat$ 9 a simil> mann]4 ,full p>ticul>s ( ties w be giv5 fur!r on4 ,if all ! hooks 9 ! ma*9e are n requir$1 any numb] ( r[s or portions ( r[s c be left idle at "o end1 or at bo? ends if desir$1 or ev5 at ! back or front4 ,:5 all ! neck tw9es are ti$ up1 ! next process is to draw !m ?r\gh ! heck1 :i* %\ld be fa/5$ firmly #b 94 or #c 94 bel[ ! knots connect+ ! tail cords & neck4 ,! jacqu>d is suppos$ to h be5 levell$ & set 9 its prop] position on ! loom1 & firmly fa/5$ !re1 & ! same may n[ be done ) ! cumb] bo>d4 ,,cumb] ,,bo>ds ,,& ,,h>ness ,,re$s ,^! are bo? = ! same purpose--viz41 t ( regulat+ ! space :i* ! h>ness is to occupy--& bo? answ] ! purpose equally well1 g5]ally speak+4 ,! re$ be+ /rong] is1 p]haps1 m suitable = co>se "w2 & ! cumb] bo>d1 giv+ a m ev5ly di/ribut$ h>ness1 is p]haps pref]able = f9e "w4 ,be t z x may1 bo? suit = any m$ium "w1 ?\gh "s workm5 are all aga9/ ! re$s1 & o!rs all aga9/ ! bo>ds4 ,h>ness re$s are /rong-made re$s ( cane or iron1 ( ! dep? & f95ess to suit ! h>ness4 ,bridges are fix$ 9 !m ab\t #f 94 ap>t1 ) p]=ations = /iff wire to be run ?r\gh2 z _m wires z are requir$ to suit ! numb] ( r[s ( ! h>ness4 ,a wire %\ld be outside ! h>ness at bo? sides1 to prev5t x rubb+ aga9/ ! ribs ( ! re$4 ,! wires are made /raight1 drawn tight1 & fa/5$ at ea* end to holes 9 ! yoke ( ! re$4 ,! re$ is set 9 a frame ( wood or iron1 s t x c be bolt$ to brackets on ! loom4 ,cumb] or comb] bo>ds1 also call$ hole bo>ds1 are made 9 v>i\s ways4 ,sometimes !y are ( wood ab\t #c_/d 94 ?ick1 & bor$ 9 a piece4 ,^! bo>ds are /rong en\gh to bolt to brackets on ! frame ( ! loom4 ,sometimes !y are ?91 ab\t #a_/d 94 ?ick1 bor$ 9 ! same way1 & fram$4 ,! wood us$ is bee*1 sycamore1 & sometimes walnut4 ,! objection to ^! bo>ds1 p>ticul>ly ! ?9 ones1 is t if ! wood is n v well season$ !y are liable to w>p & split4 ,a great _m pref] to use :at are call$ #8slips'--t is1 small pieces ( wood ( ! dep? requir$ = ! h>ness1 & ab\t #a-a_/b 94 long or broad4 ,! l5g?1 or long way ( a cumb] bo>d or h>ness re$1 is frequ5tly call$ ! wid? or bread?1 same z weav]'s re$s1 z ?is is ! wid? ( ! loom4 ,! cross-way1 or f back to front1 w\ld1 9 ! same way1 be ! dep?4 ,^! slips are made ( boxwood1 bee*1 or o!r clean h>d wood4 ,"s pref] bee* or sycamore to boxwood4 ,! tw9es cut into !m all 9 "t1 b ! h>dness ( ! boxwood causes a v f9e cut to be made 9 x1 :i* cuts ! tw9e4 ,! o!rs w n cut ! tw9e s readily1 & by ! "t ! wood is cut too mu* ! h>ness w\ld require to be r5ew$ z well z ! cumb] bo>d4 ,^! slips are made ab\t #a_/d 94 or #e_/af 94 ?ick1 & are set 9 a groov$ frame4 ,! usual way ( arrang+ ! holes 9 a bo>d is %[n at ,a 7,fig4 #ej71 :i* is = an #h-r[ h>ness4 ,b %[s a pat5t me?od1 devis$ = ! purpose ( giv+ m space betwe5 any two holes 9 ea* horizontal r[4 ,! arrangem5t ( ! holes is 9 #d-%aft sat9 ord]1 & gives d\ble ! space betwe5 ! holes ( ea* horizontal l9e t ,a does1 & ( c\rse x w\ld take s mu* long] = ! tw9es to cut ?r\gh2 b ?is w\ld only be an advantage if ! holes 7 set v close toge!r1 z o!rwise ! h>ness w\ld be consid]ably (f ! level be=e ! tw9es _h cut f "o hole into ano!r4 ,9 any case1 ! irregul>ity ( ! holes w likely prev5t x f ev] tak+ ! place ( ! old] me?od %[n at ,a1 ?\gh x may be desirable sometimes4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ej ,! cumb] bo>d is fa/5$ on two brackets--"o at ea* side ( ! loom--& %\ld be p]fectly level & firm4 ,x %\ld be s f> advanc$ z to all[ ! h>ness to pass )9 half an in* ( ! h&rail ( ! lay :5 full back1 & %\ld be f #h 94 to #aj 94 above ! mails1 ! l[] ! bett]1 z x keeps !m /eady2 b ! height may h to be regulat$ by ! swords ( ! lay1 z !y mu/ be cle> ( x1 & 9 "s looms !y are high] ?an 9 o!rs4 ,:5 ! cumb] bo>d is levell$ & fa/5$1 x %\ld n be mov$ aft] ! h>ness is ti$ up1 z any *ange 9 its position mu/ alt] ! level ( "s portion ( ! h>ness4 ,?is _c 9 e case be adh]$ to1 z 9 "s cases x may be necess>y to move x4 ,9 a small h>ness a good deal ( %ift+ c be made t c\ld n be attempt$ 9 a l>ge or intricate "o4 ,9 _m places ! h>nesses are built 9 a sep>ate room1 or by ! ma*9e mak]1 & s5t to ! manufactur]2 b practical exp]i5ce ) p>ticul> "w w tea* anyone t x is mo/ desirable to h ev]y?+ ab\t ! h>ness z level & true z possible1 & x takes a good deal ( c>e to effect ?is1 ev5 )\t any %ift+4 ,,slab/ocks ,,& ,,levell+ ,,frames #8,slab/ock' is a "n giv5 to ! bo>d us$ = fa/5+ ! mails on be=e !y are levell$4 ,x is ab\t #f 94 deep & #a 94 ?ick1 & %\ld be z long1 or long]1 ?an ! loom is broad1 accord+ to ! way x is to be fix$ 9 ! loom1 :i* is usually by be+ bolt$ to brackets fa/5$ on ! sides ( x4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ea ,!re is a groove or rebate 9 ! top edge ( x = hold+ ! mails1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ea at ,a & ,b4 ,sometimes ! grooves are at bo? sides1 z %[n at ,a#a4 ,all ! mails requir$ = ! h>ness are put on ! "o slab/ock1 :i* is set directly "u ! cumb] bo>d :5 ! h>ness is be+ levell$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #eb ,a levell+ frame is bett] ?an a slab/ock2 x is = ! same purpose--t ( keep+ ! mails firm & level :5 be+ ti$ to ! neck tw9es4 ,x consi/s ( two flat b>s ( iron1 ,c1 ,c 7,fig4 #eb71 :i* c be bolt$ toge!r 9 ! =m ( a frame by ! use ( two /ays1 "o at ea* end1 & by ! same screws be bolt$ to slott$ brackets1 ,a ,a1 ,b ,b1 fa/5$ to ! frame ( ! loom4 ,sometimes two hang+ brackets1 z ,d1 are us$1 fa/5$ f ! top or h$dle-be>] ( ! loom4 ,! levell+ b>s1 ,c1 ,c1 re/ 9 ^! brackets1 & c be fix$ firm 9 !m ) a p9 or cott]4 ,if !re is any yield or spr+ 9 ! brackets1 !y c be /ay$ f ! front ( ! loom z well1 z ! frame %\ld be made v firm4 ,! di/ance betwe5 ! two b>s %\ld be #d 94 or #d-a_/b 941 :i* w suit any h>ness2 if only n>r[ h>nesses1 z #h-r[1 are requir$1 x may be an in* n>r[]4 ,! l5g? ( ! frame mu/ suit ! bread? ( ! loom4 ,x %\ld be p]fectly /raight & level on ! upp] edges1 & %\ld h two r[s ( holes bor$ 9 x1 ab\t #b 94 ap>t1 = p9s & skew]s to pass ?r\gh above & bel[ ! wires on :i* ! mails are /rung1 s z to keep !m firm4 ,,levell+ ,,! ,,slab/ock ,,or ,,frame ,levell+ a h>ness1 or r levell+ ! mails ( ! h>ness1 is ! mo/ important "p ( ! m\nt+1 z1 if ! mails are n levell$ z true z a /raight-edge1 good "w ne$ n be expect$ f ! loom4 ,! position 9 :i* !y are levell$1 9 relation to ! brea/ beam & back rail1 w dep5d ^u ! nature ( ! clo? to be made1 to a c]ta9 ext5t2 b z a g5]al rule1 = ord9>y "w1 ! eyes ( ! mails %\ld be half ! dep? ( ! %$ requir$ to be drawn bel[ ! level ( ! brea/ beam = h& loom "w1 & a little m ?an t = p[]-loom "w4 ,?is is to h ! top & bottom portions ( ! %$ ( an ev5 t5sion1 & to make bo? sides ( ! clo? equally good4 ,! position ( ! back roll c be alt]$ a little aft]w>ds1 if x is requir$ to slack5 ei!r ! top or bottom portions ( ! %$4 ,rais+ ! back roll ?r[s up ! weft patt]n to ! "u side ( ! clo?1 & s9k+ ! back roll gives ! upp] surface ( ! clo? a f9] appe>ance1 by tight5+ ! top portion ( ! %$4 ,a #c-a_/b-;94 draw ( ! h>ness is suffici5t = p[]-loom "w1 & p]haps less w\ld sometimes be pref]able4 ,levell+ ! h>ness mails #a-c_/d 94 = light "w1 & #b 94 = heavy "w1 bel[ ! brea/ beam %\ld be a good av]age /&>d = a #c-a_/b 94 draft ( h>ness4 ,! levell+ frame or slab/ock is levell$ to ?is height by means ( a _s level & /raight-edge1 mak+ all[ance = :atev] spr+ !re may be 9 ! h>ness aft] x is ti$1 & ! wires drawn out ( ! mails4 ,?is c only be asc]ta9$ by exp]i5ce1 & dep5ds pr9cipally on ! t5sion ! m\nt] puts on ! tw9es :5 ty+ !m2 x w also dep5d ^u :e!r ! h>ness tw9es h any spr+ 9 !m or n1 b !y %\ld be well /ret*$ be=e be+ us$1 to avoid ?is4 ,a m\nt] :o ties slackly w g5]ally make a m level h>ness ?an "o :o ties tightly4 ,ab\t #a_/h 94 may be all[$ = ! mails to rise if ! cords are slackly ti$1 & if tightly ti$ #a_/d 94 may h to be all[$1 & sometimes m ?an ?is4 ,sometimes ! level is tak5 by plac+ a /raight-edge on ! race ( ! lay1 :5 ! cranks are at ! back c5tre2 !n ! "u edge ( ! /raight-edge %\ld give ! position = ! tops ( ! mails on ! slab/ock1 :5 x is fix$ 9 its position 9 ! loom4 ,9 levell+ by ?is me?od ! race mu/ fir/ be set at ! prop] height1 & x mu/ also be prop]ly bevell$4 ,f #a_/b 94 to #c_/d 94 bel[ ! brea/ beam is a good level at :i* to h ! race1 :5 ! cranks are at ! top c5tre1 ! latt] = a l[ h>ness4 ,! angle1 or bevel1 ( ! race may n at all times suit = levell+ 9 ?is way4 ,if n1 ! race %\ld be made correct :5 possible2 if x _c be correct$1 ! h>ness mu/ be levell$ a little l[] & ! back rail kept d[n = work+4 ,a loom ) ! race bevell$ = pla9 "w is n suit$ = damask2 ! angle betwe5 ! race & re$ %\ld1 = damask1 be ab\t #ic1 :]eas = pla9 #hg w\ld be m suitable4 ,,ty+ ,,up ,,! ,,h>ness ,hav+ ! neck atta*$ to ! tail cords & ! levell+ frame & cumb] bo>d fix$ 9 position1 ! next op]ation is to get ! prep>$ l+oes plac$ 9 ! loom1 :e!r on ! levell+ frame or slab/ock4 ,suppose ! levell+ frame to be us$4 ,accord+ to ! numb] ( r[s 9 ! h>ness or cumb] bo>d1 pieces ( re$ wire are procur$1 "o = ea* r[1 & z _m l+oes are /rung on ea* ( ^! z w be requir$ = ea* r[ ( ! h>ness1 by runn+ ! wires ?r\gh ! mails4 ,^! wires are !n plac$ 9 ! frame & secur$ by skew]s be+ put ?r\gh ! frame above & bel[ !m4 ,! frame is !n levell$ & firmly bolt$ to ! loom4 ,! sleep]s or mid-pieces ( ! l+oes are next drawn up ?r\gh ! cumb] bo>d1 "o ?r\gh ea* hole requir$ to be us$1 any surplus holes be+ previ\sly m>k$ out to suit ! tie ( ! h>ness1 :i* w be aft]w>ds expla9$4 ,:5 all are drawn ?r\gh1 ! ty+ ( ! neck tw9es to ! sleep]s may be proce$$ )4 ,?is mu/ be done 9 accordance ) ! tie ( ! h>ness4 ,?us1 if !re are f\r cords ti$ on ! fir/ hook ( ! ma*9e1 ^! mu/ be tak5 d[n to ! l+oes 9 ! prop] place 9 ! cumb] bo>d1 :i* may be se5 by exam9+ ! p>ticul>s ( ! m\nt+s1 to be giv5 fur!r on4 ,"o me?od ( fa/5+ ! neck to ! sleep]s is %[n 9 ,no4 #a1 ,fig4 #df1 at ,d1 d1 d#a4 ,! tw9e is put ?r\gh ! loop ( ! sleep] at d#a 7or bett] to h a snit* on ! sleep]1 unless ! knots are to be v>ni%$ aft]w>ds71 !n a loop is ?r[n on at d1 & ! end ti$ at ,d1 & clipp$ close4 ,?is me?od suits v well :5 ! h>ness is liable to be alt]$1 = if ! knots are bru%$ ov] ) pa/e !y hold suffici5tly firm1 & c be loos$ aga9 at any "t1 if necess>y4 ,if v>ni%$1 x also answ]s equally well = any co>se h>ness2 b if x is f9e & mu* cross$1 especially if ! tw9es are /rong or co>se1 ! knots are liable to cat* on ea* o!r & raise m w>p ?an %\ld be :5 ! loom is work+4 ,a second plan is %[n 9 ,no4 #b1 ,fig4 #df4 ,9 ?is case !re are no sleep]s on ! l+oes2 !y are put on ! levell+ frame or slab/ock )\t !m1 ! mails & l+oes be+ connect$ by ! hang]s2 ! levell+ frame is set 9 ! loom z be=e1 & ! neck tw9es mu/ be long en\gh to g d[n ?r\gh ! cumb] bo>d1 ?r\gh ! top hole ( ! mail1 & up aga9 ?r\gh ! cumb] bo>d to :]e !y are ti$4 ,! m\nt]1 :5 ab\t to tie !m1 takes "o ( ! tw9es & ca/s a s+le knot on x1 leav+ ! loop op51 !n puts ! end ( x ?r\gh a hole 9 ! cumb] bo>d & ?r\gh a mail1 & ) a small wire hook draws x up aga9 ?r\gh ! same hole 9 ! cumb] bo>d1 & ?r\gh ! op5 knot or loop he made on x1 at ! same "t2 !n1 turn+ r\nd ! awl or pi]c] 9 ! o!r end ( ! h&le ( ! hook1 he puts x ?r\gh ! knot & runs x up ab\t #f 94 above ! cumb] bo>d1 draws x tight1 & ca/s ano!r knot above x ) ! end ( ! tw9e1 z %[n at ,d1 ,no4 #b1 ,fig4 #df4 ,?is makes a neat h>ness1 & :5 a m\nt] gets accu/om$ to x he c proce$ v exp$iti\sly4 ,?is me?od is us$ 9 ,engl&2 ! =m] is ,scot*4 ,! in/rum5t us$ = draw+ ! tw9es ?r\gh ! cumb] bo>d consi/s ( a wood5 h&le1 9 "o end ( :i* is a hook or b>b$ wire1 same z is us$ = draw+ ! w>p ?r\gh mails1 & 9 ! o!r end is a r\nd awl or piece ( /eel wire1 tap]$ to a blunt po9t1 :i* is us$ = runn+ up ! loop or knots s z to h !m all ab\t ! same di/ance above ! cumb] bo>d4 ,beet+ is ano!r ,scot* me?od ( m\nt+4 ,! h>ness may be beet$ ei!r above or bel[ ! cumb] bo>d2 beet+ above x 0 ! old me?od1 & s+le slab/ock 0 us$1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ea at ,a4 ,:5 prep>+ x = ! loom1 ! l+oes & mails are connect$ by ! hang]s 9 ! usual way1 & hung on ! slab/ock ) ! mails 9 ! groove 9 x1 z %[n at ,b1 ,fig4 #ea4 ,a piece ( flat wire 7re$ wire7 is run ?r\gh ! eyes ( ! mails1 z _m z are requir$ = ! :ole h>ness1 & is !n ti$ d[n by cords fa/5$ r\nd x & ! slab/ock1 at %ort di/ances ap>t4 ,! slab/ock is n[ put into a frame1 or rack1 ) a rail z high above x z is requir$ = ! l5g? ( ! sleep]s4 ,a spool ( tw9e is fix$ on a wire p9 at ! side ( ! frame1 & ) a ne$le1 or o!rwise1 ! end ( ! tw9e is run ?r\gh a numb] ( ! mails & fa/5$4 ,) a hook ! sleep]s c be reel$ up to p9s 9 ! rail above ! slab/ock1 on ! same pr9ciple t !y are done 9 ,fig4 #dg4 ,:5 ! sleep]s are all f9i%$ !y c be slipp$ (f ! p9s & cut4 ,! slab/ock is next fix$ 9 ! loom & levell$ ) ! upp] edge ( ! rebate or groove t\*+ ! "u edge ( a /raight-edge plac$ on ! race ( ! lay :5 x is full back 7= p[] looms74 ,! sleep]s are !n drawn up ?r\gh ! cumb] bo>d )\t _! ends be+ knott$2 !y %\ld be long en\gh to rea* ab\t #h 94 above x1 & say #g 94 bel[1 mak+ #ae 94 = _! entire l5g?4 ,n[1 to beet ! h>ness3 ,say !re are two beet]s1 /&+ on ! gr\nd1 ) a supply ( neck tw9es conv5i5t to !m2 !y pick up ! sleep]s f ! fir/ set ( holes 9 ! cumb] bo>d--t is1 ^? t are to be connect$ ) ! fir/ hook 9 ! ma*9e--&1 hav+ ti$ neck tw9es to !m1 h& !m to ! h>ness ty]1 :o is up at ! ma*9e4 ,he takes ! lot ( tw9es & draws !m all to an ev5 t5sion1 !n1 hav+ drawn d[n ! tail cords firmly & ev5ly1 knots ! neck tw9es to !m4 ,"o me?od ( knott+ ! neck to ! tail is to h ! tail cords ti$ toge!r s z to =m loops2 !n1 hav+ /raight5$ bo? ! neck & tail cords1 lay ! neck aga9/ ! loop ( ! tail1 & take bo? firmly betwe5 ! f+] & ?umb ( ! left h&1 be+ c>eful n to let !m slip1 & ca/+ a knot1 z at ,c or ,d1 ,fig4 #ea1 r\nd ! tail1 ) ! ends ( ! neck draw x fa/4 ,9 ord] to h all ! tail cords plumb & ! knots ( a uni=m height1 ! h>ness ty] sometimes has a cord ti$ across ! top ( ! loom frame1 at ea* end ( ! ma*9e1 at ! height ! knots are to be4 ,on ^! he lays a /raight-edge1 m>k$ z a guide = :]e ! tail cords are to hang1 s t he c regulate ^? ( "o r[ & h !m plumb1 & ! knots ev52 :5 "o r[ is f9i%$1 he moves ! /raight-edge to ! next1 & goes on ) x4 ,a new] me?od ( beat+ is to prep>e ! l+oes ) sleep]s & hang]s1 ! sleep]s to be ab\t #e-a_/b 94 long4 ,! slab/ock ,a#a1 ,fig4 #ea1 is us$1 or ! o!r if pref]r$4 ,! mails are put ^u flat wires z be=e1 b in/ead ( all go+ on "o wire1 half ! numb] is put on ea* ( two wires1 & "o ( !m is plac$ at ea* side ( ! slab/ock1 :]e x c be fa/5$ ) small /aples4 ,to facilitate gett+ ! mails on ! wires1 :5 reel+ ! sleep]s on ! p91 z 9 ,fig4 #dg1 a lease c be made on ! loops by giv+ !m a twi/ :5 putt+ !m ov] ! p94 ,a piece ( tw9e c be fa/5$ 9 ?is case1 & ! loops aft]w>ds cut4 ,! mails c !n be tak5 (f 9 ord]1 & run on ! wire = ! slab/ock4 ,:5 ! mails are fix$ on ! slab/ock x may be laid on ! gr\nd1 or set 9 a frame1 & ! neck tw9es ti$ to ! sleep]s2 & :5 all are ti$1 !y c be drawn ?r\gh ! cumb] bo>d or h>ness re$4 ,aft]w>ds1 all are tak5 & fix$ 9 ! loom4 ,! cumb] bo>d mu/ be set s high above ! knots on ! sleep]s t !y w n come into contact ) x :5 ! %$ is op5$ 7t w\ld be #d 94 or #d-a_/b 94 above x74 ,! neck tw9es are !n ti$ to ! tail cords z be=e4 ,?is makes a v good h>ness1 & has ! advantage ( hav+ no knots on ! neck tw9es above ! cumb] bo>d1 :i* is v important 9 an intricate h>ness ) ! cords close toge!r1 z ! knots :5 v>ni%$ are liable to cat* on ea* o!r1 or on tw9es slant+ across !m1 & lift !m z !y are be+ drawn up4 ,:5 a h>ness is m\nt$ 9 ?is way x is n easy to make any alt]ation on x1 or to re-level any portion ( x if necess>y4 ,if ! sleep]s are ti$ 9 loops1 same z us$ 9 ,no #a1 ,fig4 #df1 !y c be connect$ to ! neck tw9es by hav+ ! latt] d\ble & putt+ bo? ends ( ! neck ?r\gh a snit* on ! sleep]1 or ! neck tw9es may be d\ble & ! two ends ( ! sleep] :5 unti$ may be put ?r\gh a snit* on ! loop$ end ( ! neck tw9e & ti$2 9 ?is way !y c\ld be alt]$ or adju/$ aft]w>ds if necess>y1 b if !y _h to be v>ni%$ ! knots w\ld be r r\gh4 ,! foll[+ me?od ( m\nt+ is adopt$ 9 ! damask h&-loom di/ricts ( ! ,nor? ( ,irel&1 & is us$ = p>ticul> p[]-loom "w z well4 ,x is a sl[] process ?an ! prec$+1 b _c be surpass$ = gett+ a level h>ness1 & ! mails c be regulat$ z desir$--t is1 to h ! back r[s gett+ gradually a little high] ?an ! front ones1 :i* c only be accompli%$ 9 ! prec$+ me?ods by ty+ !m a little tight]1 or by hav+ ! frame slop$ a little4 ,! l+oes may be prep>$ z be=e1 ) ! sleep]s #e 94 long :5 ti$ & clipp$4 ,! neck tw9es are put d[n ?r\gh ! cumb] bo>d & knott$ loosely 9 bun*es und]nea?4 ,! levell+ frame is set 9 ! loom1 ! top edge ( x be+ at ! level t ! eyes ( ! mails 9 ! front r[ are to be hung4 ,no wires are requir$4 ,! l+oes are tak5 9 bun*es & put a/ride on ! frame z requir$1 & boys fa/5 !m up to ! neck tw9es by ?r[+ on a snit* & runn+ !m up to some:]e ab\t ! height !y w be want$ :5 level2 9 do+ s ! knots on ! sleep]s mu/ be kept up z close to ! snit* z is conv5i5t = ty+ !m1 z1 if left too l[1 !y w\ld int]f]e ) ! w>p 9 %$d+4 ,:5 all ! l+oes are hung inside ! levell+ frame--or !y may be hung fir/1 & ! levell+ frame put up aft]w>ds & levell$--! m\nt] may beg9 to level ! mails4 ,he uses a f9e piece ( wax$ cord ) a small weight at ea* end1 :i* he lays across ! levell+ frame z a guide1 & levels ea* r[ f back to front 9 succession4 ,! front mail may hang ) ! top ( its eye level ) ! cord1 & ! o!rs rise a little high]1 till ! back "o is p]haps1 ) ! bottom hole1 level ) ! levell+ cord1 or #a_/h 94 high] ?an ! front "o4 ,! levell+ c easily be accompli%$ by slid+ ! snit* up or d[n ! neck tw9es2 & :5 ! correct height = ! mail is got1 ! neck tw9e is ti$ z at ,h1 ,no4 #c1 ,fig4 #df1 :5 x is to be v>ni%$1 or z at ,h#a :5 x ne$ n be v>ni%$2 9 ! latt] case cable cord is us$ = ! neck1 & x is split at ! end1 :5 drawn ?r\gh ! snit*1 & !n knott$4 ,,v>ni%+ ,a ,,h>ness ,v>ni%+ is = ! tw(old purpose ( mak+ ! h>ness tw9es we> bett]1 & keep+ !m f be+ affect$ by ! atmosph]e4 ,sometimes ! h>ness is only p>tly v>ni%$1 p>ticul>ly :5 x is liable to be *ang$ 9 a %ort "t1 & !n x c be loos$ d[n & us$ aga94 ,if x is to rema9 = a l5g? ( "t--t is1 = /eady "w--x %\ld be v>ni%$ all ov]1 b c>e %\ld be tak5 to get a good v>ni%1 z "s ( !m de/roy ! tw9es1 & o!rs come (f & are useless4 ,! common v>ni%es are made pr9cipally f %ellac1 beeswax1 & turp5t9e1 & c be procur$ at any h$dle-mak]'s4 ,sometimes :ite wax dissolv$ 9 turp5t9e is us$ to rub ! tw9e at ! cumb] bo>d1 = f9e h>nesses = silk & o!r light "w1 ! rema9d] be+ left unv>ni%$4 ,sometimes ! neck ( ! h>ness & ! sleep]s are v>ni%$1 & ! knots above ! cumb] bo>d are bru%$ ) pa/e1 z ea* r[ is ti$1 to keep !m f slipp+4 ,p]haps ! be/ v>ni% is boil$ oil1 :i*1 :5 well dri$1 gets v smoo? aft] work+ = "s "t1 & keeps ! tw9es s(t & pliable4 ,x takes "s "t to dry1 & does n suit well = us+ 9 a du/y place1 b answ]s v well :5 ! h>ness is built 9 a room = ! purpose1 & is aft]w>ds tak5 to ! loom4 ,sometimes a v small quantity ( beeswax or :ite wax is add$ to ! oil to give x m firmness1 & sometimes dri]s are us$ to make x dry m quickly2 b x is bett] to d )\t dri]s1 z !y h>d5 ! tw9es & are injuri\s4 ,v>ni% %\ld n be di/urb$ till q dry1 z1 if ! tw9es are sep>at$ & ! loom />t$ :5 x is s(t1 ! out] surface w rub up & make a r\gh h>ness4 ,! tw9es are sep>at$ by runn+ a wire skew] betwe5 ea* cross-r[4 ,fr5* *alk du/$ d[n ?r\gh ! h>ness assi/s 9 smoo?+ x1 & prev5ts too mu* friction :5 x is be+ />t$ to "w4 ,,to ,,arrange ,,! ,,tie ,,( ,a ,,h>ness ,:at is kn[n z ! tie ( a h>ness is ! arrangem5t or mann] 9 :i* ! h>ness tw9es are connect$ to ! hooks ( ! jacqu>d--i4e4 ! numb] ( tw9es t are ti$ to ea* hook1 & ! position !y are to occupy 9 ! cumb] bo>d4 ,ties = ord9>y damask "w may be divid$ into ?ree classes--viz4 /raight1 or s+le2 lay ov]1 or repeat+2 & ga!r$1 or c5tr$4 ,/raight or ,s+le ,tie4--,?is tie is only requir$ :5 !re is no repetition ( any portion ( ! patt]n1 z 9 silk m>k]s1 & occasionally 9 h&k]*iefs1 d'oyleys1 tableclo?s1 c4 ,only "o h>ness tw9e is ti$ to ea* hook ( ! jacqu>d1 & !re mu/ be z _m hooks z !re are ?reads ( w>p4 ,! tw9es are ti$ to ! jacqu>d & tak5 d[n ?r\gh ! cumb] bo>d 9 regul> ord] f fir/ to la/1 & ! w>p is drawn into ! mails 9 ! same ord]4 ,any patt]n t x is possible to put on ! clo? c be wr\ght ) ?is me?od ( m\nt+4 ,lay ,ov] or ,repeat+ ,tie4--,?is is1 p]haps1 ! commone/ tie1 & is us$ = all su* patt]ns z ,fig4 #ec1 :]e "o small portion1 z t enclos$ by ! dott$ l9es1 w1 :5 repeat$ sev]al times1 cov] ! entire surface ( ! clo?4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ec ,ga!r$ or ,c5tr$ ,tie4--,?is tie c be us$ :5 bo? halves ( any figure or bord]1 c41 are alike :5 turn$ ov]2 x w only require half ! numb] ( hooks to "w a figure or bord]1 :5 ga!r$ or c5tr$1 t w\ld be requir$ = a s+le patt]n4 ,all o!r ties are comb9ations ( ^!4 ,fig4 #ec %[s a patt]n = a lay ov]1 or repeat+ tie1 su* z might be us$ = dress goods1 h&k]*iefs1 c4 ,! complete ext5t ( ! patt]n is enclos$ by ! dott$ l9e2 ?is is call$ "o #8repeat' ( ! patt]n1 because ?is portion repeat$ ov] ! clo? makes up ! entire figur+ on x4 ,to asc]ta9 h[ ?is may be wov51 or :at numb] ( hooks ( ! jacqu>d w be requir$ to weave x1 ! numb] ( ?reads conta9$ 9 #a 941 or o!r giv5 space1 ( ! clo? requir$ mu/ be kn[n4 ,if ! patt]n is to be on ! clo? say #b 94 #b-c_/h 941 & !re are to be #ajj ?reads ( w>p & #abj ?reads ( weft p] in*1 !n #bjj hooks ( ! jacqu>d & #bdj c>ds w\ld be requir$ to weave x1 ea* hook repres5t+ "o ?read ( w>p1 & ea* c>d repres5t+ "o %ot ( weft4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ed ,figs4 #ed & #ee %[ m\nt+s on jacqu>ds ) #bjh hooks 9 ea*1 ! =m] ti$ on ! ,norwi* pr9ciple1 & ! latt] 9 ! ,london /yle4 ,9 bo? cases only #bjj hooks are us$1 ! rema9+ eight hooks be+ left idle = selvages1 if requir$4 ,^! m\nt+s are made = f\r repeats ( ! patt]n1 :i* w\ld only make #h 94 ( clo?2 b !re may be any numb] ( repeats1 say #ac1 to make #bg 94 ( clo? or #bh-a_/b 94 ( w>p 9 ! loom1 )1 say1 #ib ?reads p] in*4 ,!re mu/ be a h>ness tw9e = ea* repeat ( ! patt]n ti$ to ea* hook ( ! ma*9e2 :5 f\r repeats are us$1 f\r tw9es are ti$ to ea* hook1 z 9 ,figs4 #ed & #ee4 ,! h>ness re$ or cumb] bo>d1 ,g1 mu/ be ( ! same set or f95ess z ! weav]'s re$ 7if f9]1 x c be us$ by pass+ ov] ! surplus holes74 ,x is divid$ into f\r portions1 leav+ #bjj holes = ea* repeat1 & ! tw9es are1 9 ,fig4 #ed1 tak5 /raight d[n f ! hooks to ! holes 9 x1 z c easily be se54 ,9 ?is figure ! cross-r[s ( ! cumb] bo>d at ! fir/ ( ea* repeat are %[n fill$2 b 9 m\nt+1 ! back r[1 tak5 f ! hooks ,a to ,b1 w\ld be fill$ fir/4 ,9 ,fig4 #ee ! rev]se is ! case1 ! cross-r[s1 z %[n1 be+ ! fir/ fill$2 ?is is ow+ to ! twi/ 9 ! h>ness1 z ! ma*9e is sitt+ s t ! c>ds w hang ov] ! side ( ! loom4 ,! lett]s ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 & ,d 9 bo? figures d5ote ! same corn]s ( ! ma*9es1 %[+ t 9 ,fig4 #ee !re is a qu>t] twi/ 9 ! h>ness4 ,9 ,fig4 #ed1 ! dott$ l9es f ! #bjj? hook %[ ! la/ cord ( ea* repeat2 ,l is ! fir/ cord ( ! la/ cross-r[1 & ,e & ,f are ! same 9 ,fig4 #ee4 ,9 ^! figures only ! skeleton ( ! m\nt+ is giv52 x mu/1 ( c\rse1 be fill$ up z ! fir/ r[s :i* are giv54 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ee ,= ?is description ( m\nt+ ! y>n is drawn into ! mails 9 regul> ord]1 beg9n+ at ,no4 #a1 & proce$+ ) ! numb]s z giv54 ,9 ?is case ! back hook to ! left-h& corn] mu/ be tak5 z ! fir/ hook ( ! ma*9e1 & ! c>ds cut to suit ?is4 ,sometimes ! fir/ hook to ! front left-h& corn] is consid]$ ! fir/ hook1 b if s x mu/ be rememb]$ :5 cutt+ ! c>ds4 ,sometimes ! m\nt+ is begun at ! "r-h& side1 b 9 any case x is only necess>y to see t ! draft ( ! y>n & cutt+ ( ! c>ds correspond ) ! ord] ( m\nt+2 ! result ( ! "w %\ld be ! same 9 all cases4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ef ,fig4 #ef %[s a patt]n = a ga!r$ bord] ) a repeat+ c5tre1 :i* is a v common /yle ( design4 ,x w be se5 t ! two halves ( ! bord]1 ,a & ,b1 are alike1 if tak5 f ! c5tre outw>ds2 or if "o-half ( ! bord] 7 trac$ on trac+ pap]1 x w\ld1 if turn$ ov]1 =m ! o!r half4 ,= ?is reason x is also call$ a #8turn-ov]' bord]4 ,9 ! same way1 if two cords are ti$ to ea* hook ( ! jacqu>d = ! bord]1 & ^? to ! fir/ hook tak5 d[n to ! cumb] bo>d = ! two outside ?reads ( ! bord] 7t is1 "o to ! "r & ! o!r to ! left71 !n ^? f ! next hook tak5 to ! two next out] holes1 & s on1 com+ f ! outsides to ! c5tre1 ! fir/ half ( ! patt]n w\ld be repeat$ by ! m\nt+ 9 exactly ! same way z by turn+ ov] ! trac+ pap]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #eg ,fig4 #eg %[s a m\nt+ = a ga!r$ bord] & f\r repeats ( ! c5tre4 ,eighty hooks are tak5 = ! bord]1 :i* are repeat$ f\r times 9 ! cumb] bo>d1 z at #hj;a1 #hj;b1 #hj;c1 & #hj;d1 & #abj hooks are all[$ = ! c5tre repeat 7see also ,fig4 #eh74 ,?is m\nt+ is made up = a #bjj ma*9e ) #bjh hooks1 ! extra eight hooks be+ left = work+ ! selvages4 ,only ! front r[ ( ! h>ness is %[n1 b !y are all alike4 ,by foll[+ ! cords f ! hooks to ! cumb] bo>d1 x c be easily se5 h[ !y are tak5 ?r\gh x4 ,! fir/ eight hooks are left idle1 = ! selvage to be fix$ to if requir$4 ,! next t5 r[s #hj hooks1 are = ! bord]2 ^! #hj hooks1 ) "o tw9e on ea*1 tak5 d[n ?r\gh ! cumb] bo>d at #hj;a1 w\ld "w ! fir/ half ( ! bord]1 z ,a4 ,! o!r half ( ! bord]1 ,b1 c be wr\ght by ! same hooks1 ) ano!r set ( tw9es ti$ to !m1 & tak5 ?r\gh ! cumb] bo>d at #hj;b2 b ! tw9e f ! fir/ hook mu/ be cross$ ov] to ! "r-h& side ( ! bord]1 be+ ! #afj? tw9e 9 ! cumb] bo>d2 ! tw9e f ! second hook is ! #aei? 9 ! cumb] bo>d1 & s on1 com+ 9 t[>ds ! c5tre to meet ! fir/ set ( tw9es2 h5ce ! "n1 #8c5tr$ tie4' ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #eh ,! bord] mu/ also be repeat$ on ! o!r side1 & two m sets ( tw9es mu/ be ti$ to ! same hooks 7f\r to ea* hook 9 all71 :i* are tak5 d[n ?r\gh ! cumb] bo>d at #hj;c & #hj;d1 to "w ! two halves ( ! bord] m>k$ ,g & ,h1 ,fig4 #eh4 ,! next #ae r[s ( hooks #abj1 "w ! repeat ( ! c5tre patt]n1 ,c1 ,figs4 #ef & #eh2 & z ?is is repeat$ f\r times1 at ,c1 ,d1 ,e1 & ,f1 ,fig4 #eh1 !re mu/ be f\r tw9es ti$ to ea* ( ! #abj hooks1 :i* are tak5 d[n ?r\gh ! f\r divisions ( ! cumb] bo>d m>k$ #abj2 "o tw9e f ea* hook be+ tak5 ?r\gh ea* division1 beg9n+ at ! left & work+ to ! "r side1 alike 9 !m all1 z ?is portion is a simple repeat+ tie4 ,fig4 #eh gives a portion ( ! patt]n 9 ,fig4 #ef complet$ across1 z x w\ld be on ! clo? by ! m\nt+ 9 ,fig4 #eg2 ! cumb] bo>d is laid across ! top ( ! patt]n & m>k$1 %[+1 9 conjunction ) ! m\nt+1 ,fig4 #eg1 h[ ! h>ness repeats ! patt]n s t a l>ge surface c be figur$ ) a small ma*9e by adopt+ a suitable tie4 ,:5 draw+ ! w>p into ! h>ness1 :]ev] !re is a ga!r 9 ! tie1 or a turn 9 ! h>ness1 !re mu/ be a turn 9 ! draft also2 n t !re is any real *ange 9 ! draft1 b :5 ! h>ness is turn$ 9 ! direction x is drawn ?r\gh ! cumb] bo>d1 ! draft mu/ also be *ang$ to foll[ ! mails 9 regul> ord]4 ,fig4 #ei %[s a draft = a ga!r$ bord]1 ) #dh hooks = ! bord] & ?ree repeats ( ! c5tre4 ,x w be se5 t ! fir/ half ( bo? bord]s ,a & ,b & ! ?ree repeats ( ! c5tre are drawn 9 ! same direction1 b t ! two turn$-ov] portions ( ! bord]s ,c & ,d are drawn 9 ! rev]se direction4 ,! numb]s on ,figs4 #fb & #fb;,a may assi/ 9 expla9+ ?is1 ! bord] ,a 9 #fb & ,b 9 #fb;,a be+ tak52 9 ^! x w be se5 f ! numb]s1 :i* are ^? ( ! h>ness tw9es1 t #a to #h 9 bord] ,a 7,fig4 #fb7 run 9 ! rev]se direction ( #a to #h 9 bord] ,a 7#fb;,a71 & bo? are f ! same hooks4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ei ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fj ,:5 two bord]s are to be wov5 on any piece ( clo?1 ?\gh ! patt]n = ea* bord] may be s+le 9 itself1 z ,fig4 #fj 7:i* is s+le except ! two outly+ l9es1 ,a & ,c71 !y w to ea* o!r =m a ga!r$ tie1 provid$ !y h to be turn$ 9 ! same way to ! c5tre ( ! clo?--t is1 if ! inside ( "o bord] on "o side is to be ! inside ( ! o!r bord] on ! o!r side4 ,9 su* a patt]n z ,fig4 #fj x w\ld n matt] mu* if ! inside ( "o bord] 0 ! outside ( ! o!r1 z ! bord] is mu* alike ei!r way1 & if wr\ght 9 ?is way ! twill on ! clo? w\ld n be rev]s$1 z is always ! case 9 a turn$-ov] bord]4 ,9 _m patt]ns ?is w\ld n d1 & x is !re=e necess>y to ga!r ! tie & turn ! twill4 ,fig4 #fa %[s h[1 9 ! ,london /yle ( ty+1 ! h>ness c be turn$ s t a turn 9 ! draft is n necess>y1 b ?is w n alt] ! rev]se twill on ! clo?4 ,x w be se5 t "o ( ea* ( ! two cords ti$ to ! eight hooks goes to "o bord]1 & ! o!r to ! opposite bord]1 b in/ead ( bo? go+ to ! same r[ ( ! cumb] bo>d1 ! cord f ! fir/ hook goes to ! back r[ 9 "o bord]1 & to ! front r[ 9 ! o!r4 ,all ! cords foll[ 9 ?is way1 :i* has ! same effect z turn+ ! draft1 z w\ld require to be done 9 ! ,norwi* m\nt+s1 & c\ld also be done on ?is pr9ciple4 ,fig4 #fb %[s ! draft ( ! two bord]s = ,fig4 #fa m\nt+1 ,a & ,b be+ a plan ( ! w>p pass+ ?r\gh ! mails4 ,! numb]s ref] to ! hooks ( ! jacqu>d4 ,c & ,d are ! two inn]mo/ ?reads ( ! bord]s1 bo? on ! #dh? hook ( ! ma*9e4 ,fig4 #fb;,a %[s h[ ! draft w\ld be if ! cords 7 n br\ght f front to back ( ! cumb] bo>d1 z ! numb]s w %[4 ,no4 #a %[s :]e ! cords f ! fir/ hook pass ?r\gh ! cumb] bo>d4 ,fig4 #fb;,a gives ! "r-h& bord] only1 ! left-h& "o rema9+ ! same z 9 ,fig4 #fb4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fa ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fb ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fb;,a ,9 ,fig4 #fj1 ! two b>s ,a & ,c c\ld be wr\ght f ! same hooks1 &1 unless !y might be requir$ to be diff]5t f ea* o!r on ano!r patt]n to "w on ! same loom1 x w\ld be unnecess>y to all[ ma*9]y = ! two2 ei!r ! out] or inn] "o c\ld be ti$ up1 & ! o!r repeat$ f x1 b ! "o t is ti$ up mu/ be pa9t$ on ! design pap]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fc ,fig4 #fc %[s ! front view ( a m\nt+ = weav+ a patt]n su* z t giv5 on ,fig4 #fj1 "o ma*9e be+ us$ = ! bord]1 & ano!r = ! c5tre4 ,usually ! bord] ma*9e w\ld be to ! left-h& side1 to correspond ) ! patt]n2 b 9 ,fig4 #fc x w be obs]v$ t ,no4 #a ma*9e is to ! "r-h& side1 & t x works ! bord]s4 ,x does n matt] :i* ma*9e is us$ = bord] or c5tre2 ! m\nt] c use ! "o he consid]s mo/ suitable = ! bord]s1 & ! patt]n may be pa9t$ & ! c>ds cut )\t any consid]ation ( ?is1 x be+ only necess>y to put ! bord] c>ds to ! bord] ma*9e1 & ^? = ! c5tre to ! c5tre ma*9e4 ,! only consid]ation is to avoid any unnecess>y slant+ ( ! h>ness tw9es1 :i* ! pres5t arrangem5t does2 & x also keeps ! turn$ portion ( ! h>ness 7t = ! "r-h& bord]7 sep>ate f ! tw9es ( ! c5tre1 ?us avoid+ any unnecess>y friction4 ,,to ,,m>k ,,out ,a ,,cumb] ,,bo>d ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fd ,cumb] bo>ds may be ei!r ! exact f95ess ( ! h>ness1 or any set f9]2 !y are bett] to be a little f9]1 to all[ = any brok5 r[s at ! beg9n+ or end ( any ( ! repeats4 ,:5 ! cumb] bo>d is f9] ?an ! h>ness1 ! surplus r[s are left idle4 ,a conv5i5t plan ( m>k+ (f a cumb] bo>d is z foll[s3--,let ! patt]n be z ,fig4 #fj--t is1 ) a bord] at ea* side & ! c5tre to be repeat$ sev]al times to make up ! wid? ( ! clo?4 ,let #bd cords be requir$ = ! selvage1 #agb cords = ! bord]1 & #abh = a repeat ( ! c5tre2 !re are to be f\r repeats ( ! c5tre4 ,n[ m>k (f on ! cumb] bo>d :atev] wid? ! h>ness is to /&1 :i* %\ld be ! same or r wid] ?an ! w>p occupies 9 ! re$1 & let x be s z to h ! h>ness 9 ! c5tre ( ! loom4 ,suppose ,fig4 #fd to give ! wid? ( cumb] bo>d requir$4 ,! selvages are wr\ght f #f hooks1 & !re are #h hooks 9 ea* r[ ( a #djj jacqu>d2 !re=e #d r[s ( ! cumb] bo>d w be requir$ = ea* selvage4 ,m>k ^! (f by draw+ ! l9es ,a & ,b on ! cumb] bo>d4 ,n[ f9d out ! wid? ! bord]s are ea* to occupy1 by calculat+ h[ wide ! y>n w be 9 ! re$1 & m>k !m (f by ! l9es ,c & ,g2 !n m>k (f ! wid? ( ea* repeat by ! l9es ,d1 ,e1 & ,f4 ,c\nt+ ! numb] ( holes m>k$ (f = ! m>g91 x w be f\nd t !re are #cb2 b z ! selvage is on six hooks1 ! two back holes ( ea* r[ ( ! cumb] bo>d are m>k$ out1 z %[n1 n be+ requir$4 ,! portion m>k$ (f = ! bord]s conta9s #bc r[s on ea* side1 :]eas only #ba-a_/b are requir$ = #agb cords4 ,z ! c5tre repeat is on ev5 r[s1 & x is usual to leave brok5 r[s to ! left-h& side ( ! pa9t+1 ! fir/ #d hooks ( ! bord] portion ( ! ma*9e w be idle2 !re=e ! #d back holes ( ! cumb] bo>d = bo? bord]s are m>k$ out2 ?is /ill leaves a r[ too mu*1 :i* may be m>k$ out at any place4 ,= ! repeats1 #abh cords1 #af r[s are requir$1 & ! surplus r[s are m>k$ out1 z %[n4 ,?is m\nt+ is suppos$ to be on a #djj ma*9e1 leav+ #ajj hooks idle to ! left-h& side ( ! m\nt+1 !n us+ #a r[ = ! selvages1 & ! rema9+ #ch r[s = ! patt]n1 all b ! half ( ! fir/ r[1 :i* is n requir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fe ,9 m>k+ out a cumb] bo>d = a lay-ov]1 or repeat+ patt]n--if1 say1 #ajh hooks are requir$ = ea* repeat1 :i* makes #ac-a_/b r[s ( an #h-r[ ma*9e--if ! brok5 r[ is to ! left-h& side ( ! pa9t+1 & ! h>ness m\nt$ f left to "r1 !n ! fir/ f\r holes ( ! fir/ r[ ( ea* repeat ( ! patt]n are m>k$ out 9 ! cumb] bo>d to be left empty1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #fe4 ,:5 m\nt+1 no att5tion w\ld be paid to ! cords on ! half-r[ ( ! ma*9e till ! fir/ f\r r[s along ! cumb] bo>d h be5 fill$1 ! m\nt] beg9n+ ) ! back cord on ! fir/ full r[ ( ! ma*9e1 :i* is ! fif? hook ( ! tie4 ,?ree r[s = ! selvage1 :i* is on f\r hooks at ! front ( ! h>ness1 are %[n at ,s1 ,fig4 #fe4 ,! front ( a jacqu>d is g5]ally consid]$ by workm5 to be ! cyl9d] side4 ,( c\rse1 :5 !re is a cyl9d] on ea* side !re is nei!r front nor back to x4 ,sometimes x is v confus+ talk+ ( ! front & back1 "o consid]+ x to mean ! front ( ! h>ness1 or front ( ! loom1 & ano!r tak+ x to be ! front or cyl9d] side ( ! jacqu>d1 :i* is usually at ! back ( ! loom = ,norwi* ties4 ,( c\rse1 ! front ( ! loom is :]e ! weav] /&s1 or :]e ! clo? is made1 & ! front ( ! h>ness is t[>ds ! front ( ! loom4 ,x simplifies matt]s greatly by n m9d+ ! back or front ( ! ma*9e1 b speak+ ( e "p ( ! h>ness1 c41 t[>ds ! front ( ! loom z ! front ( x4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ff ,x frequ5tly happ5s t figur$ /ripes are requir$1 runn+ up pla9 or fancy textur$ goods1 ei!r =m+ bord]s to ! out] edges1 or m]ely ornam5tal /ripes1 say #c or #d in*es f ! edges ( ! clo?1 z 9 t[els1 toilet-cov]s1 c4 ,= ?is class ( "w x is g5]ally mo/ advisable to "w ! /ripes ) a small jacqu>d1 & ! pla9 or fancy texture ( ! body ( ! clo? ) a %aft m\nt+4 ,fig4 #ff %[s a m\nt+ ( ?is class2 ! %afts c be wr\ght by tappets 9 ! usual way1 & small cumb] bo>ds1 z ,a1 ,a#a1 are fa/5$ to ! top rail ( ! loom = ! h>ness to pass ?r\gh4 ,x is usual to keep ! h>ness beh9d ! h$dles1 & x is levell$ 9 ! usual way4 ,! y>n may or may n be on ! same beam = bo? portions1 accord+ to :e!r ! take-up1 or %r9kage1 w be ! same = bo? portions or n4 ,sometimes ! %r9kage may be regulat$ to be alike 9 bo? by us+ diff]5t c\nts ( y>n1 or draw+ x ?ick] into ! re$2 b p]haps 9 mo/ cases two beams w\ld be desirable1 unless ! texture is mu* alike = bo? ! /ripes & body ( ! clo?4 ,! lease rods = ! y>n 9 ! h>ness w n1 probably1 d to be ! same z ^? = ! body y>n1 z ! action ( ! h$dles w be diff]5t f t ( ! h>ness4 ,if ! same rods w n suit1 x is easy to h a pair = ea* w>p1 ^? = ! h>ness be+ f>!/ back4 ,/ripes ( ?is description are frequ5tly made 9 t[els1 glass-clo?s1 c41 = clubs or hotels1 ) ! "n ( ! company wov5 into !m4 ,a ga!r$ tie is mo/ly us$ = ^! m\nt+s1 except :5 lett]s are requir$ to be wov51 9 :i* case a ga!r$ tie is n suitable4 7,see ,lett]s & ,monograms47 ,,to ,,v>y ,,! ,,set ,,( ,,! ,,h>ness ,x may (t5 be t 9 weav+ figur$ piece-goods x w\ld be an advantage to h a h>ness t w\ld weave diff]5t degrees ( f95ess1 s t ! loom c\ld be utilis$ = "o :5 ! o!r is n requir$4 ,= weav+ small quantities1 = samples or special ord]s1 ?is is (t5 an advantage4 ,! usual me?od ( proc$ure is to draw ! w>p into a f9] or co>s] re$ if only a slight diff]5ce is requir$1 & to pay no att5tion to ! /rive 9 ! w>p betwe5 ! h>ness & re$4 ,! bett] ! quality ( ! w>p1 ! great] ! /rive may be1 b f #a 94 to #b 94 at ea* side is z f> z x c safely be run :5 ! h>ness is wid] ?an ! y>n 9 ! re$2 & if ! re$ is co>s] ?an ! h>ness1 #a 94 at ea* side w probably be ! maximum limit4 ,:5 *anges ( ?is k9d are liable to take place1 ! cumb] bo>d %\ld n be too l[ d[n1 nor %\ld ! mails hang too close to ! back ( ! slay2 ) ! cumb] bo>d high & ! h>ness a little back ! /rive w n tell s sev]ely on ! w>p4 ,:5 ! cumb] bo>d is made ( boxwood slips1 !y c be spread out a little 9 ! frame1 b :5 !re is mu* ( a slant 9 ! h>ness ?is w\ld take ! mails (f ! level2 ?\gh ?is c sometimes be c\nt]act$ a little by rais+ ! cumb] bo>d slightly high] at "o end ?an at ! o!r4 ,! be/ plan :5 mu* ( a *ange is requir$ is to pass ov] ! surplus r[s ( mails 9 ! h>ness1 z 9 h>ness "w1 z well z 9 %aft m\nt+s1 ! m\nt+ may be us$ = any co>s] set ( w>p ?an x is built =--( c\rse1 if ! wid? is suitable4 ,?is w\ld necessitate ! w>p1 or at lea/ a "p ( x1 be+ drawn out ( ! h>ness1 & also requires a new set ( c>ds = ! new patt]n1 or = ! same patt]n on a new set ( clo?4 ,! surplus mails may be ca/ out 9 r[s across ! loom if _m are to be reject$1 or 9 r[s across ! h>ness 7f back to front7 if f\nd m suitable1 or :5 a small numb] ( mails are to be left idle4 ,suppose = an #h-r[ h>ness1 #djj ma*9e1 ) #f repeats #bdjj mails on #cj 941 or #hj ?reads p] in*1 & x is requir$ to weave a piece ( clo? on ?is hav+ #gd ?reads p] in*4 ,draw+ ! y>n into a co>s] re$1 &1 if only #cj 94 wide is requir$1 ?r[+ (f ! surplus y>n at ea* side1 w\ld probably be ! simple/ me?od2 b if ! clo? to be wov5 is to h #fj ?reads p] in*1 e f\r ?r[ ( mails across ! h>ness1 or "o-f\r? ( ! h>ness1 might be left idle1 or ! two back r[s ( ! h>ness may be left empty4 ,9 ! latt] case ! patt]n c\ld be pa9t$ on #f-r[ design pap] z if = a #f-r[ ma*9e1 & 9 ! =m] case ! numb] ( designs across ! pa9t+ w\ld be r$uc$ by "o-f\r?1 ! c>d-cutt] tak+ c>e t he omitt$ ^? r[s on ! c>d t h be5 ?r[n idle on ! ma*9e4 ,9 ord] to r$uce ?is tr\ble & exp5se to a m9imum ,messrs4 ,devoge ,co4 h pat5t$ an exp&+ h>ness :i* is int5d$ to admit ( clo?s ( diff]5t degrees ( f95ess be+ wov5 )\t any tr\ble b a little sett+ ( ! cumb] bo>d & re-re$+ ! w>p4 ,! me?od ( do+ s is z foll[s3--,!re are two cumb]-bo>d frames1 "o above ! o!r1 z %[n 9 ! sket* ,fig4 #fg2 ^! frames are fill$ ) slips :i* c be mov$ along :5 desir$4 ,! h>ness c be set = two degrees ( f95ess ( w>p1 z is %[n 9 ! sket*4 ,! slips 9 ! upp] frame1 ,b1 are set midway above ! two positions = a slip 9 ! l[] frame indicat$ by ! lett]s a & a#a4 ,! black l9es %[ ! position ( ! cords :5 weav+ ! f9] set4 ,! only *ange requir$ to be made is to %ift ! l[] slip1 a1 to ! position a#a1 & to re-re$ ! w>p2 o!r *anges c be made on ! same pr9ciple1 or by alt]+ bo? sets ( slips 9 relation to ea* o!r4 ,:5 ! slips are mov$ 9 ! frames1 !y c be kept 9 position by int]pos+ blank slips betwe5 !m4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fg ,! same c>ds w suit 9 ?is case = sev]al sets ( clo?1 if requir$4 ,( c\rse x is pla9 t ! friction on ! h>ness tw9es work+ ?r\gh ! two cumb] bo>ds mu/ be greatly increas$ f t ( ! ord9>y me?od ( work+2 b = light "w1 & :5 ! h>ness is n requir$ to la/ long1 x may prove v s]viceable :5 frequ5t *anges are requir$1 z x furni%es a ready means ( accompli%+ ! desir$ object1 :i* _c be done )\t co/ 9 "s direction4 ,= wide looms or intricate m\nt+s x w n be ( mu* s]vice4 ,9 ! ,figure only "o hook ( ! jacqu>d is giv51 = simplicity1 b ! h>ness w\ld be fill$ up 9 ! usual mann]4 ,if ! h>ness is built ) long mails hav+ sev]al eyes 9 !m1 ! second cumb] bo>d is n requir$2 ! slips c be %ift$ & ! w>p levell$ by draw+ x ?r\gh suitable holes 9 ! mails4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,design+ ,,& ,,draught+ ,design+ is ! compos+1 draw+1 & col\r+1 if necess>y1 ( ! sket*es = jacqu>d patt]ns1 & 9 "s cases plann+ ! texture ( ! clo?2 & draught+ 7or draft+7 is ! t]m usually appli$ to ! pa9t+ ( ! patt]ns ^u design pap]4 ,a design] %\ld be a fir/-class draughtsman1 & h a ?or\gh k ( ! v>i\s /yles ( ornam5t2 he %\ld also be well practis$ 9 draw+ floral =ms f ,nature1 )\t :i* !re is g5]ally a /iffness & want ( fre$om 9 8 /yle ( "w4 ,= col\r$ "w1 su* z c>pets1 c41 skilful col\r+ is ! mo/ ess5tial po9t4 ,no draw+ w atone = bad col\r+2 at ! same "t1 good col\r+ %\ld n be wa/$ on bad draw+4 ,a design] may draught 8 own patt]ns1 & if he is an exp]i5c$ draughtsman ) a good k ( weav+1 p]haps ?is is ! mo/ successful me?od ( work+2 b if ! great] portion ( 8 "t is to be tak5 up ) draught+1 8 tal5t z a design] w be1 to a great ext5t1 lo/1 & he w probably det]iorate2 besides1 he w n h ! same opportunity = gett+ up a v>iety ( designs t he w\ld h if he _h no?+ else to att5d to4 ,a design] = any class ( "w %\ld h a k ( ! te*nicalities ( ! mat]ial = :i* he is design+ a patt]n2 at ! same "t1 a v slight k is ess5tially requisite1 provid$ ! sket* be giv5 into prop] h&s to be work$ out4 ,x mu/ be rememb]$1 h[ev]1 t 9 ?is case a sket* may (t5 h to be tak5 only z an idea = a patt]n1 & n be h&$ by ! manufactur] to ! draughtsman ) directions to make a tru?ful reproduction ( x on ! clo?4 ,a draughtsman may be a skilful design] z well1 or he may be a skilful draughtsman & h v little p[]s ( design+4 ,:5 he is a design]1 ! mo/ successful me?od ( gett+ a v>iety ( patt]ns w\ld be = ! manufactur] to pur*ase sket*es = ideas & h& !m ov] to 8 design]1 :o w be consid]$ to h a ?or\gh k ( ! practical "w1 to prep>e !m to suit ! fabrics = :i* !y are int5d$1 p]haps completely alt]+ !m1 mak+ two or ?ree out ( "o1 or comb9+ two or m to make "o patt]n if necess>y--9 fact1 us+ !m z mat]ial to "w f4 ,!y may !n be h&$ ov] to ! draughtsm51 or be s5t to a design+ e/abli%m5t = draught+ & cutt+4 ,9 case ! manufactur] has no design] 9 8 place1 b only a draughtsman1 ! sket*es mu/ be b\ght prep>$ to suit 8 fabrics1 or x w\ld be bett] to h ! complete "w done1 9 _m cases1 at a design+ e/abli%m5t4 ,( c\rse1 9 draught+1 z 9 all classes ( "w1 a great deal ( ! less important portions may be done by junior h&s1 b a k ( draw+ is requir$1 if only to guide ! eye1 by !m all1 except ! twill]s4 ,sometimes design]s accu/om$ to sell+ sket*es get !m up 9 a v deceptive mann] 9 ord] to deceive manufactur]s or _! ag5ts1 :o may h v little k ( ! "w2 b ?is c easily be *eck$ by submitt+ !m to a practical design] be=e pur*as+ !m4 ,a design t may be v suitable = "o class ( clo? may be equally unsuitable = ano!r class1 & 9 _m cases fa%ion regulates ! suitability q indep5d5tly ( its arti/ic m]its4 ,= col\r$ "w1 designs %\ld be ( su* =ms z l5d !mselves to ! dispos+ ( col\rs1 no /yle be+ m suitable ?an ,p]sian2 :]eas 9 pla9 "w1 z damask1 ! fl[ ( l9e or ! v>iation ( ! =ms1 assi/$ by portions ( fancy %ad+ or twill+1 mu/ give ! complete effect4 ,aga91 diff]5t degrees ( f95ess ( clo? w suit = diff]5t designs2 ( c\rse1 any patt]n t c be put on a co>se clo? c also be put on a f9e "o1 b _m patt]ns are v suitable = f9e "w t c\ld n be put on a v co>se fabric4 ,:5 x comes to f9e col\r$ silks1 any?+ t ! arti/ c pa9t c be fairly repres5t$1 z may be se5 9 ! "w f ! ,cov5try silk m>k] looms1 s t any design c be put ^u clo?2 b ! "q is1 ,is ! clo? suitable = ! design8 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fh ,fig4 #fh %[s a piece ( #h #i design or po9t pap]2 #h #i mean+ t ea* ( ! l>ge squ>es1 or designs1 conta9s #gb small *ecks or squ>es1 #h 9 bread? & #i 9 l5g?1 b ! #i %\ld occupy ! same space z ! #h4 ,t5 by t5 appe>s to h be5 ! /&>d design1 z patt]ns are /ill c\nt$ by ! #ajj designs1 ea* conta9+ #ajj *ecks1 or #ajj *ecks 9 l5g? & ! same 9 bread?3 & 9 "s places ma*9es are kn[n z s-_m-design ma*9es2 ?us1 a #djj jacqu>d is call$ a #dj-;design ma*9e4 ,:5 ea* design conta9s z _m *ecks 9 l5g? z x does 9 bread?1 ! pap] is int5d$ = "w t is to h equal quantities ( w>p & weft ?reads 9 x2 ?us #h #h1 #aj #aj1 #ab #ab pap] w\ld all suit = clo? )1 say1 #hj ?reads ( w>p & #hj picks ( weft p] in*1 ! diff]5ce be+ t #h #h is int5d$ = a jacqu>d ) #h ne$les 9 ! r[1 & #aj #aj & #ab #ab = #aj & #ab r[ ma*9es respectively4 ,x is n necess>y to h diff]5t pap]s to suit1 z "o c\ld be us$ = all1 & aft] ! patt]n is pa9t$ x c\ld be rul$ 9 r[s to suit ! ma*9e1 b x is mu* m conv5i5t to get ! correct size ( pap]4 ,if #hj ?reads ( w>p requir$ to h #ajj picks p] in*1 !n to f9d ! size ( ! pap] /ate z #hj3 #ajj33 ! numb] ( ne$les 9 "o r[ ( ! ma*9e to ! numb] ( c>ds 9 ea* design1 giv+ #h #aj1 #aj #ab-a_/b1 or #ab #ae2 b #aj #ab1 or #ab #ad w\ld h to be us$ = ! la/ two1 z a half c\ld n be made1 & #ab #ae is an unusual size4 ,ei!r w\ld d by draw+ out ! design a little :5 enl>g+ x = ! po9t pap]4 ,squ>e pap] might also be us$ by c\nt+ (f ! numb] ( *ecks requir$1 & draw+ an elongat$ patt]n to cov] !m2 b x is m desirable to h suitable pap] = "w t is at all p>ticul>1 & 9 case ( su* z #ab #ae pap]1 #h #aj is ! same proportion1 & c\ld be us$ = x1 ! squ>es aft]w>ds be+ rul$ 9 #ab's = ! c>d-cutt]4 ,ea* upright space on ! design pap]1 betwe5 ! l9es1 repres5ts a ?read ( w>p or "o hook ( ! jacqu>d1 & ea* space betwe5 ! horizontal l9es repres5ts a pick1 or %ot1 ( weft1 or "o c>d ( ! patt]n2 s t a pa9t$ patt]n is a magnifi$ view ( ! texture ( ! clo?1 9 common jacqu>d "w4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fi ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gj ,fig4 #fi is a small sket* = a bord] ) spot fill+1 :i* is %[n on design or po9t pap] 9 ,fig4 #gj4 ,! pap] is #h #h2 ! fir/ f\r *ecks are us$ = a selvage1 & ! patt]n is on #ab-a_/b designs or #ajj ?reads ( w>p1 & #bb designs or #agf c>ds w\ld be requir$ = ! weft1 ! patt]n be+ made ab\t ?ree times ! size on ! design pap] t x is on ! sket*4 ,! design pap] has #af *ecks p] in*1 consequ5tly ! clo? w\ld h ab\t #dh ?reads to ! in* to make ! patt]n appe> z ! sket*4 ,if ! clo? 7 f9]1 say ) #gb ?reads p] in*1 !n #aej *ecks on ! design pap] w\ld be requir$ = ! patt]n1 :i* means t #aej hooks ( ! jacqu>d w\ld be requir$ = work+ x4 ,:atev] wid? ! sket* occupies 7"o repeat ( ! patt]n71 multiply ?is by ! numb] ( ?reads ( w>p p] in* to be 9 ! clo? requir$1 & ! product w be ! numb] ( hooks requir$ = ! jacqu>d1 & ! numb] ( *ecks or spaces requir$ on ! design = ! w>p4 ,! numb] ( c>ds is f\nd simil>ly f ! weft ( ! clo?4 ,if1 on ! o!r h&1 a patt]n is to be made = a jacqu>d1 & x is requir$ to f9d :at size ( patt]n w "w on x1 divide ! numb] ( hooks 9 ! jacqu>d by ! numb] ( ?reads p] in* 9 ! clo? requir$1 & ! quoti5t w be ! size ( ! patt]n w>p-ways1 9 in*es4 ,! l5g? or weft-way ( ! patt]n c !n be arrang$ to suit ! numb] ( c>ds1 or ! patt]n c be made any l5g? to suit ! /yle ( design4 ,fig4 #ga is a patt]n ( ! same /yle z ,fig4 #fi1 & x might be want$ to use x in/ead ( ,fig4 #fi = clo? ( ! same make1 say #dj to #de ?reads p] in*4 ,?is c\ld n be done1 z x c\ld n be put on ! design pap]1 b x w\ld suit v well if int5d$ = clo? ) #hj to #ajj ?reads p] in*1 :i* w\ld admit ( its be+ suffici5tly enl>g$ 7say f\r times ! size ( ! sket*7 to be correctly repres5t$ by ! *ecks4 ,fig4 #fi w\ld be bett] on clo? hav+ #ej to #fj ?reads p] in*1 co>s] sets requir+ l>g] =ms4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ga ,9 prep>+ a design = po9t pap]1 ! sket* is usually fir/ made out & select$ by compet5t judges z suitable = ! fabric requir$1 z well z = ! ta/e ( ! m>ket 9 :i* ! goods are to be sold4 ,:5 select$ x has to be enl>g$ to suit ! size x is to cov] on ! po9t pap]4 ,sometimes ! enl>gem5t is made on ano!r piece ( pap]1 & is !n transf]r$ to ! po9t pap]2 ?is is p]haps "o ( ! be/ me?ods ( proce$+1 b x is n s quick z if ! enl>gem5t 7 made ^u ! po9t pap] direct4 ,x is usual to rule squ>es on bo? ! sket* & design pap]1 :i* be> to ea* o!r ! same proportion t ! size ( ! sket* does to ! size ( ! design pap] requir$ to be cov]$4 ,?is guides ! draughtsman1 z ev]y?+ 9 ! small squ>es on ! sket* %\ld be put into ! correspond+ l>ge squ>es on ! enl>g+ pap] or po9t pap]4 ,a pantagraph is sometimes useful1 & proportional compasses are a great assi/ance if v correct enl>gem5ts are requir$4 ,:5 a c>eful outl9e ( ! patt]n is made ^u ! design pap]1 x is !n pa9t$4 ,"s pa9t]s dot r\nd ! outl9es1 & 9 l>ge =ms leave !m to be fill$ 9 by assi/ants2 o!rs pa9t 9 solid z !y g along4 ,v]milion & sc>let & crimson lakes are ! pa9ts mo/ly us$4 ,! fir/ is easily wa%$ out1 b ! lakes are m transp>5t1 & admit ( ! *ecks on ! pap] be+ cle>ly se5 ?r\gh x1 :i* is a b5efit to bo? twill] & c>d-cutt]4 ,sc>let lake1 ) f a half to a qu>t] its quantity ( crimson lake mix$ ) x1 makes a v good pa9t4 ,! ord9>y wat]-col\r cakes are ! be/ pa9ts to use1 b p[d]$ col\r is sometimes pref]r$ on acc\nt ( its *eapness4 ,9 ,fig4 #gj ! pa9t+ is all black1 ) :ite twill+ on ! fl[]+4 ,simple flat ornam5tal =ms1 if ( suffici5t size1 are n difficult to put on ! design pap]1 b m intricate =ms & %ad$ effects require a consid]able am\nt ( skill1 & are t$i\s1 unless to an exp]i5c$ h&1 ! difficulty be+ to get ! *ecks on ! design pap] to express ! figures 9 ! be/ possible mann]1 & frequ5tly x is necess>y to slightly alt] ! =ms to make !m come nicely on ! pap]4 ,:5 ! sket* has to be enl>g$ to1 say1 ?ree or f\r times its size1 a slight inaccuracy 9 ! pa9t+ w h b little effect1 z x w be r$uc$ on ! clo?4 ,at ! same "t1 advantage %\ld n be tak5 ( ?is to employ inf]ior h&s at ! "w1 z1 ! m correct ! pa9t+1 ! m correct w be ! patt]n on ! clo?1 al?\gh x be r$uc$ 9 size2 & a ragg$-edg$ pa9t+ w nev] h a cle>1 def9$ appe>ance on ! clo?4 ,x is 9 co>se col\r$ "w1 su* z c>pets1 t ! accuracy ( ! pa9t+ is ( ! utmo/ importance1 z ! patt]n on ! clo? is z l>ge z1 or may be mu* l>g] ?an1 x is on ! design pap]2 !re=e all inaccuracies are magnifi$1 & no =ms t d n come satisfactory on ! squ>es ( ! pap] w h a good appe>ance on ! clo?1 s t to a great ext5t ! design mu/ be made to suit ! pap]4 ,:5 ! patt]n is all pa9t$ on ! design pap]1 bo? ! gr\nd & patt]n = ord9>y full-h>ness "w h to be dott$ ov] ) ! texture ( ! clo?4 ,?is is call$ twill+4 ,9 ,fig4 #gj ! texture is a #e-;end sat9 on bo? gr\nd & fl[]4 ,= twill+ ! gr\nd ! same col\r is us$ z ! fl[] or figur$ portion is pa9t$ )1 & = ! figur$ portion black is mo/ly us$1 sometimes :ite4 ,! twill+ dots on ! figure mean blanks1 z if ^! *ecks 7 left )\t any col\r on !m1 or z ! gr\nd1 & !y are pass$ ov] by ! c>d-cutt] :5 ! c>ds are be+ cut4 ,9 twill+ c>e mu/ be tak5 n to run ! dots up aga9/ ! edges ( ! fl[]+ s z to injure ! =m ( ! figures4 ,9 "s cases1 z at any flat portion1 su* z a horizontal or v]tical l9e1 or any portion ( "o1 ?is _c be avoid$1 b ! r$ dots on ! gr\nd %\ld "h fall 9 aga9/ ! black dots on ! figure4 ,x is necess>y to beg9 "o set ( dots aga9/ ! o!r set to c>ry ?is out z f> z possible1 & 9 "s cases1 :5 !y w n jo91 ! dots are set out ( _! places to make !m come toge!r4 ,! two dots com+ toge!r b9d ! ?reads & keep ! la/ ?read ( ! gr\nd on "o side1 & ( ! figure on ! opposite side--accord+ z x is ! weft or w>p t is =m+ ! l9e--f hang+ loose or slid+ out f ! o!rs4 ,! direction ( ! twill on ! gr\nd or fl[] may v>y s z to suit ! twill us$1 & :e!r a sat9 or sate5 effect is requir$4 ,v>i\s k9ds ( twills are frequ5tly us$ to give effect1 b too great an irregul>ity ( texture %\ld be avoid$1 ?\gh a pla9 gr\nd1 ) an #h-or #aj-;end sat9 = ! fl[]+1 may be us$ = h&k]*iefs ) a good effect2 = heavi] "w a #e-;end sat9 gr\nd & an #h-;end sat9 figur+ may be us$1 b = firm1 /rong clo? an #h-;end sat9 = bo? gr\nd & figure is mu* bett]1 lett+ ei!r w>p or weft pr$om9ate l>gely 9 ! clo?4 ,fig4 #gb %[s h[ a leaf or any piece ( ornam5t may be %ad$2 c>e %\ld always be tak5 n to let ! texture be too close at any "p 9 ! %ad$ portion s z to make h>d pieces 9 ! clo?1 z w\ld be ! case if a pla9 texture 7 us$ 9 a firm clo?4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gb ,fig4 #gc %[s h[ a fl[] & bud %\ld be pa9t$ s z to give a natural1 or r semi-natural1 repres5tation4 ,! %ad+ %\ld be made to express ! =m z well z possible2 a v>iety may also be made 9 ! twill+ on ! fl[]1 z may be se5 on ! front petal1 :]e a /raight twill is us$2 ?is makes ! clo? ri*] & ! petal come out full]4 ,?is patt]n is r small on ! design pap] to come well on ! clo?2 x w\ld be bett] twice z l>ge1 z x may be se5 t 9 _m cases s+le l9es ( ! design pap] h to be us$ = divisions1 & = full-h>ness "w x is g5]ally bett] to h at lea/ two l9es1 repres5t+ two ?reads4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gc ,?is pa9t+1 omitt+ ! twill+1 w\ld suit = a pressure h>ness1 ) ea* l9e ( ! design pap] repres5t+ two or ?ree ?reads ( bo? w>p & weft4 ,no twill+ is requir$ on a pressure-h>ness patt]n1 z ! texture is wr\ght by ! front m\nt+2 o!rwise ! patt]n is ! same1 be>+ 9 m9d t z ea* *eck repres5ts two or ?ree ?reads1 x w n be r$uc$ on ! clo? z a full-h>ness patt]n w\ld4 ,! twill+ ( ?is patt]n is ! #h-leaf sat91 :i* is g5]ally us$ = f9e damask1 giv+ a mu* ri*] effect ?an ! #e-leaf sat94 ,x w p]haps be well to make "s ref]5ce z to ! desirability ( us+ ^! natural =ms = designs1 ?\gh x w\ld be useless to ent] into ! (t-disput$ po9t ( :e!r x is correct or 9 good ta/e to attempt to imitate natural =ms ^u clo?1 or :e!r ev5 %ad$ or r\nd$ =ms %\ld be treat$ ^u a flat surface4 ,to ! latt] ,i w\ld answ] )\t hesitation1 by all means d s1 b make ! appe>ance satisfactory & keep !m 9 good ta/e2 & ?is c be done if ! subject treat$ is duly consid]$4 ,! =m]1 x mu/ be admitt$1 is r p&]+ to ! popul> ta/e ?an foll[+ ! dictates ( decorative art4 ,"o ?+ is c]ta91 t ! #8million' are bett] satisfi$ ) floral =ms ?an any o!r class ( ornam5t1 & ! m loosely treat$ ^! are1 or ! fur!r !y are f ornam5t1 ! m pleas+ !y are to ^? un9itiat$ 9 ! beauty ( l9e1 want+ :i* no ornam5tal =ms c be pleas+ to ^? educat$ 9 art4 ,h[ev]1 ^! natural =ms sugge/ ,nature1 & _! admir]s h s little idea ( ,nature's beauties t !y d n see ! defects 9 ! attempt$ repres5tations4 ,at ! same "t1 x mu/ n be und]/ood t a pleas+ design1 or "o 9 good ta/e1 _c be compos$ ( natural =ms--q ! contr>y2 = small1 simple patt]ns1 pr9cipally = light fabrics1 !y are p]haps m suitable ?an any o!r ornam5t1 giv+ lightness & gracefulness ( appe>ance1 z may frequ5tly be se5 f ! designs on ! bett] class ( dress goods1 :e!r wov5 or pr9t$2 b ! natural treatm5t mu/ be kept subs]vi5t to ! fl[ ( ! design4 ,g5]ally1 a mod]ately flat treatm5t )\t any /rong attempts at light & %ade is mo/ successful1 ! treatm5t consi/+ ( a graceful arrangem5t ( =ms drawn f nature4 ,ev]yone kn[s ! beauty & grace ( ! ,japanese designs2 b ?is is n simply because !y are natural =ms3 x is ! arrangem5t ( ! =ms t gives ! effect4 ,v effective patt]ns c be made = dadoes ( col\r$ curta9s f natural objects1 z "h !y c h ! upright =ms suit$ to !m2 b = col\r$ "w1 g5]ally speak+1 & = c>pets 9 p>ticul>1 natural =ms1 unless treat$ flatly & conv5tionally1 are r>ely ei!r pleas+ or 9 good ta/e4 ,) !m x is difficult to obta9 t int]m+l+ ( col\rs1 be !y bright or dull1 t produces a neutral bloom & a satisfactory result4 ,ano!r important po9t 9 a patt]n1 & (t5 ov]look$1 or n und]/ood1 is t1 unless ! patt]n1 z a :ole1 is satisfactory1 no v>iety or beauty ( detail c make x a good design4 ,! g5]al "* or l9es ( ! patt]n mu/ fir/ be made satisfactory1 aft] :i* ! detail may be made z int]e/+ z possible1 provid$ x does n injure ! g5]al effect1 & is n incongru\s to ! nature ( ! design4 ,z to :e!r flat surfaces %\ld be treat$ ) %ad$ ornam5t or n is a po9t t w always be 9 dispute1 b x may be ask$ :y %\ld a design] be hamp]$ ) su* re/rictions8 ,if he c produce a satisfactory patt]n by us+ ei!r flat or %ad$ ornam5t1 or bo?1 :y n let him d s8 ,! crit]ion %\ld be :e!r ! result is satisfactory or n4 ,( c\rse su* b>b>\s "w z repres5t+ leop>ds or tig]s pr[l+ ov] c>pets or he>?rugs1 or ev5 decorat+ !m ) ! m homely duck or drake ne/l+1 or waddl+ ?r\gh wat]1 _c be too /rongly condemn$1 highly ?\gh !y 7 once appreciat$1 & ?\gh !y /ill f9d fav\r ) _m3 ev5 %ad+ =ms or objects 9 su* a mann] z w produce a feel+ ( weakness1 insecurity1 or dang]1 c nev] be upheld--t is1 su* a practice z %ad+ ribbons fl[+ ov] c>pets or he>?rugs l sn>es1 & button$ d[n at c]ta9 po9ts2 or mak+ ! surface ( ! c>pet appe> v irregul>1 :i* has (t5 be5 done1 & is (t5 se5 9 col\r$ tile pavem5ts4 ,( c\rse ^! rem>ks ref] m or less to any fabric1 b a little relief 9 a curta9 w\ld n be ne>ly s objectionable z on a c>pet1 s t almo/ ev]y?+ turns ^u :e!r ! result produc$ is satisfactory or n--( c\rse1 to ^? compet5t to judge1 & :o are n ov]come by biass$ prejudices4 ,natural or semi-natural floral ornam5t w r>ely be injur$ by a little %ad+1 :e!r on a :ite or col\r$ fabric1 b x %\ld n be ov]done--a mod]ate am\nt ( %ad+ or a half-flat treatm5t g5]ally giv+ a m pleas+ effect4 ,conv5tional floral ornam5t is1 p]haps1 be/ treat$ flatly1 or ) a v little %ad+ on "s portions t require a little relief4 ,a ri*] & pur] effect 9 col\r c be got ) flat ?an ) %ad$ col\rs4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gd ,fig4 #gd is an example ( a small floral patt]n ( a class mu* us$ = dress goods1 ei!r wov5 or pr9t$1 & gives a v pleas+ effect4 ,"o repeat ( ! patt]n is b\nd$ by ! l9es a b c d1 or ! :ole might be tak5 z "o repeat1 & in/ead ( hav+ a r[ ( pe>s on a l9e1 h a pe> & "s o!r fruit alt]nately1 & ! same ) ! apples4 ,?is patt]n is a semi-natural floral treatm5t1 & if on a l>g] scale a little m %ad+ on ! fruit & a few turn$-ov] leaves or half-op5 fl[]s w\ld n injure x1 b w\ld add to its ri*ness4 ,fig4 #ge is a sort ( floral ornam5tal1 or flatly & symmetrically treat$ floral patt]n1 some:at aft] ! ,p]sian /yle1 & ?\gh "s w\ld consid] x /iff 9 comp>ison ) ! previ\s "o1 x has a v pleas+ effect1 & c\ld be us$ ! size indicat$ = dress goods1 c41 or if enl>g$ to two or ?ree times ! size x w\ld make a v good curta9 patt]n4 ,small sprigs ( fl[]s1 grasses1 gra91 c41 scatt]$ ab\t ov] ! surface ( ! clo? make g5]ally a fav\rite /yle ( patt]n4 ,s f> ! patt]ns giv5 are su* z w\ld require ! design] to h a good k ( draw+ & ( ornam5tal & floral =ms1 & _m consid] t a design] mu/ be a draughtsman2 b su* is n ! case4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ge ,l>ge quantities ( patt]ns are made t d n necess>ily require ! design] to h any k ( draw+2 ?is is call$ #8small patt]n' or #8texture' design+4 ,a design] ( ?is class %\ld h a ?or\gh k ( weav+ & ( ! effect :i* ! patt]ns on design pap] w produce on ! clo?4 ,he mu/1 ( c\rse1 h a ta/e = ! arrangem5t ( =ms1 & c produce consid]able v>iety by a judici\s arrangem5t ( fancy ?reads ?r\gh ! clo?1 p>ticul>ly 9 wor/$ or wooll5 goods4 ,! foll[+ examples w %[ h[ great a v>iety ( patt]ns c be produc$ )\t any k ( draw+4 ,b a k ( draw+ w be a great assi/ance1 z x tra9s ! eye to correctness ( =m4 ,fig4 #gf is a patt]n = dress goods2 x may be made ( cotton only1 or ) a cotton w>p & wor/$ weft1 & a good effect is produc$ by hav+ ! w>p a diff]5t col\r f ! weft1 say a gold cotton w>p & a br[n or giraffe wor/$ weft4 ,w>p #fj to #hj ?reads p] in*1 & weft ab\t ! same4 ,?is is a patt]n ( ! bird-eye class1 & a v l>ge range c be made 9 ?is /yle1 bo? bold & effective1 or f9e & neat1 z may be desir$4 ,! small] patt]ns may1 ( c\rse1 be wov5 ) %afts1 b l>g] ones require a jacqu>d4 ,fig4 #gg is ano!r patt]n1 ( ! flu%$ /ripe class1 also suit$ = dress goods2 ?is is a silk h&k]*ief patt]n = #ij ?reads & #if picks p] in*2 #fj_/b ,*9a silk = w>p1 & #fj's s+le ,*9a silk = weft4 ,if ! small dots on ! patt]n are cut on ! c>ds1 a f9] & clos] patt]n w be produc$ ?an if ! black squ>es only are cut1 b ( c\rse x w\ld be less effective unless on a co>s] fabric4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gf ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gg ,fig4 #gh is a patt]n t w\ld suit = dress goods if wov5 simil>ly to ,fig4 #gf2 & if wov5 mu* co>s]1 say #be to #cj ?reads p] in*1 x is suit$ = quilt+s4 ,great v>iety c be made 9 ?is /yle ( quilts1 p>ticul>ly :5 floral & o!r =ms are int]sp]s$ ?r\gh ! texture1 & also :5 ! honeycomb texture is employ$1 an example ( :i* is giv5 9 ,fig4 #gi 9 comb9ation ) diap] or bird-eye figures2 only a portion ( ?is patt]n is giv51 b x %[s all t is requir$4 ,9 ei!r pure :ite1 or ) a w>p ( "o col\r & a weft ( ano!r col\r1 ^! patt]ns are v effective :5 made f good twi/ y>n & co>sely set 9 ! re$2 ! flu%+ might be ov] twice z _m ?reads z is %[n 9 ! patt]ns1 & !n m ?reads ( w>p & weft be us$4 ,x is p]haps to ! wooll5 & wor/$ trades we mu/ turn to f9d ! greate/ v>iety ( patt]ns ( ! description we are n[ deal+ )4 ,true1 ! great] portion ( !m c be wr\ght on %afts1 & p]haps a great] numb] ( %afts are us$ 9 ^! trades ?an 9 any o!r bran* ( textile "w1 z %afts produce a firm] clo? ?an a h>ness2 b :5 l>ge fancy patt]ns are requir$1 rec\rse mu/ be _h to ! jacqu>d4 ,fig4 #hj is an example ( a fancy twill /ripe :i* c\ld be wr\ght on #dh %afts if desir$1 b might also be wr\ght on a small jacqu>d ) great] simplicity1 unless v heavy clo? is requir$4 ,patt]ns ( ?is description require consid]able skill 9 design+1 & are 9 "s cases m difficult z !y increase 9 size4 ,x may be se5 t ! patt]n or figure is compos$ ( diff]5t textures1 & to make a p]fect clo? ! v>i\s textures %\ld all "w toge!r at an ev5 tightness1 or s t !re w be an equal am\nt ( take-up ( %r9kage ( ! w>p = ea*4 ,:5 *ecks or l>ge patt]ns are to be =m$ ?is is mo/ ess5tial1 b 9 small] patt]ns x c 9 a great measure be rem$i$ by lett+ ! v>i\s textures foll[ ea* o!r1 s t if "o tight5s a little ano!r w make a correspond+ slackness1 & all toge!r w balance ea* o!r4 ,ano!r important po9t is to jo9 ! edges ( ! v>i\s textures toge!r s t !re w be no break1 or floats ( w>p & weft great] or less ?an 9 ! textures !mselves4 ,9 "s cases tight & loose textures are wr\ght toge!r to give a special effect1 & figures may be =m$ by ! close texture press+ ! loos] ?reads toge!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gh ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gi ,ano!r class ( patt]n by :i* a v good effect c be obta9$ by v simple means1 is ! hair l9e or tricot /yle4 ,fig4 #ha is a dice patt]n on ?is pr9ciple4 ,! texture is pla9 clo? ?r\gh\t1 & ! effect ( patt]n is obta9$ by us+ two col\rs ( w>p & weft1 say black & :ite1 & by arrang+ ! draught & tread+ s t ! black weft w pass ov] ! black w>p & ! :ite weft ov] ! :ite w>p on "o dice1 & ! rev]se ( ?is = ! next "o1 a horizontal & v]tical l9$ effect w be produc$1 giv+ a subdu$ patt]n4 ,! d>k *ecks on ! design pap] are ! tricot or horizontal l9e effect2 ! grey *ecks ! v]tical l9es or hair l9e effect4 ,x w be se5 at ! edge ( ea* dice h[ ! col\rs are *ang$ 9 bo? w>p & weft by ! two dots com+ toge!r4 ,! crosses along ! bottom & to ! left side ( ! design %[ ! d>k ?reads & d>k picks com+ alt]nately ) ! :ite ones4 ,fig4 #hb is a small figure patt]n arrang$ 9 ?is mann]1 ! rev]s+ ( ! col\rs be+ done by ! jacqu>d1 z may be se5 f ! dots on ! design4 ,almo/ any figure may be treat$ 9 ?is mann]1 b simple patt]ns1 n too irregul> or brok5 9 outl9e1 w p]haps be f\nd mo/ successful4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hj ,^! fabrics may be made 9 ei!r wooll51 wor/$1 or cotton = dress goods4 ,ab\t #cf ?reads ( w>p p] in* ( #b_/cj's wor/$1 & #cb ?reads ( weft p] in*1 is a good sett+ = !m2 & 9 any mild contra/s ( y>ns1 su* z two %ades ( grey1 !y are v pleas+4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ha ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hb ,com+ n[ a /ep fur!r t[>ds ! damask or figure patt]ns1 we h /ill great scope = v>iety1 )\t mu*1 if any1 k ( draw+ be+ requir$ f ! design]4 ,?is consi/s ( spott+ small geometrical figures ov] ! clo?1 ! body or gr\nd ( :i* may be pla91 twill1 or any texture desir$4 ,fig4 #hc is a patt]n ( ?is description ) a pla9 gr\nd4 ,! figures are arrang$ 9 sat9ette or #d-;end sat9 ord]4 ,( c\rse1 ! gr\nd might be a twill if desir$1 & ! figures may be ( any =m t +5uity c sugge/4 ,!y may be solid1 & a twill$ texture us$ to b9d !m if ! flu%es ( w>p or weft are too great1 & "p ( ! figure might be w>p flu% & "p weft flu%2 9 fact any v>iety t ! design] c arrange to produce a good effect on ! clo?1 :i*1 if ! w>p & weft are ( diff]5t col\rs1 may be made v effective4 ,any arrangem5t = ! figures may be us$ if suit$ to ! size ( ! figure & ! space !y h to occupy to suit ! repeat ( ! patt]n4 ,! #d-;end sat9 gives two figures on "o diagonal1 & two on ! o!r diagonal alt]nately2 "o figure on ea* diagonal may be us$1 & also ?ree figures on ea* ) equally good effect1 subject1 ( c\rse1 to "s ext5t to ! size & =m ( ! figures4 ,five & eight-?read sat9 arrangem5ts are two ( ! be/ t c be us$ if a great] numb] ( figures are requir$ 9 ea* repeat ( ! patt]n4 ,to arrange a patt]n 9 sat9 ord]1 ! usual way is to rule ! repeat into z _m squ>es 9 l5g? & bread? z !re are ?reads 9 ! sat9 to be us$4 ,?us1 = a #e-?read sat91 rule ! repeat into five squ>es 9 l5g? & ! same 9 bread?1 or tw5ty-five squ>es 9 all1 !n place "o ( ! figures into ea* ( five ( ^! squ>es1 ! ord] be+ t ( ! #e-;end sat9 twill4 ,a draughtsman w\ld ei!r sket* ^! figures on ! design pap]1 or sket* "o ( !m on a piece ( pla9 pap]1 trace x1 & transf] x to ! diff]5t positions x w\ld occupy on ! design pap]1 & !n pa9t ea* ( !m indep5d5tly4 ,b a design]1 )\t a k ( draw+1 w\ld m>k out ! spaces on ! design pap] = ea* figure1 &1 hav+ made "o ( ! figures ! requir$ %ape on ! *ecks or small squ>es1 w\ld copy ! o!rs f ?is4 ,9 ,fig4 #hc let #b;,a be ! fir/ figure =m$1 x be+ />t$ 9 ! second squ>e upw>ds & fir/ r[4 ,n[1 ! second figure c be simil>ly begun 9 #d-?read sat9 ord]1 :i* w\ld br+ x to squ>e ,no4 #b1 & x is begun 9 ! same position 9 ?is squ>e t ! fir/ "o 0 begun 9 squ>e ,no4 #b;,a4 ,! ?ird figure falls to ! ?ird squ>e f #c;,a & #c1 b z ?is figure is turn$ r\nd = v>iety1 ! po9t = beg9n+ x at figures #a & #b mu/ be m>k$1 & an imag9>y squ>e run r\nd x1 & x mu/ be kept 9 its position 9 ! squ>e1 or ! c5tre ( ! figure may be f\nd by c\nt+ ! *ecks 9 ei!r ( ! fir/ or second figures & ?is figure wr\ght f ! c5tre2 or1 aga91 z ! figure is six *ecks great] 9 l5g? ?an 9 bread?1 x mu/ be set ?ree *ecks to "o side1 & ! top po9t %\ld rise ?ree *ecks high] up above ! l>ge squ>e ( ! design pap] on :i* x %\ld be />t$2 b ) a pla9 gr\nd x is sometimes necess>y to move ! figures "o *eck out ( position to all[ ! pla9 to fall 9 regul>ly all r\nd !m4 ,?is figure is set "o *eck d[n4 ,fig4 #d is copi$ f ,fig4 #c1 & is 9 ! same position4 ,) a twill$ gr\nd or irregul> figures1 x w n matt] if ! gr\nd does n fall 9 q regul>ly r\nd !m4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hc ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hd ,if x 0 requir$ to make a patt]n simil> to ,fig4 #hc1 b ) five figures in/ead ( f\r1 & pres]ve ! same d5sity ( gr\nd /ructure r\nd !m1 x c\ld be calculat$ z foll[s3--,fig4 #hc is on #dd *ecks broad & #dd long4 ,n[ #dd #dd #aicf1 & on ?is !re are f\r figures1 !n #aicf #d #dhd4 ,z five figures are requir$ #dhd #e #bdbj *ecks = design4 ,if !re are to be z _m *ecks across ! design z up x1 f9d ! squ>e root ( #bdbj = ! numb] ( *ecks1 z sqrt#bdbj #ej ne>ly4 ,if ! patt]n is n to be squ>e1 ! proportion may be f\nd = ea* side by mak+ two calculations1 "o = ! great] numb] ( *ecks squ>$1 & ! o!r = ! less] numb] ( *ecks squ>$1 & extract+ ! squ>e roots = ! two sides ( ! requir$ patt]n2 or1 suppose ! w>p to be to ! weft 9 ! proportion ( #aj to #ab1 !n /ate1 z #ab is to #aj1 s is #ej to #db1 ! numb] ( *ecks across ! bottom ( ! patt]n2 & z #aj3 #ab33 #ej to #fj1 ! numb] ( *ecks 9 ! l5g? ( ! patt]n1 & #db x #fj #bebj1 :i* is ne>ly ! same z #ej squ>$ #bejj = a squ>e patt]n4 ,b if ?is is = add+ extra weft to ! clo?1 ! size ( ! patt]n w\ld be r$uc$1 :i* might br+ ! figures too close toge!r & w\ld alt] ! %ape ( !m2 9 ?is case ! addition %\ld be made to ! numb] ( *ecks 9 l5g?1 mak+ ! patt]n #ej broad & #fj long1 or to conta9 #cjjj *ecks1 & ! l5g? ( ! figures %\ld be increas$ 9 proportion4 ,( c\rse ?is w produce a f9] clo?4 ,fig4 #hd is a patt]n arrang$ ) five figures on x4 ,a great v>iety ( patt]ns may also be =m$ by arrang+ dice or squ>es 9 v>i\s ways1 "s ( :i*1 z may be se5 on ! ,indian fabrics1 make v pretty patt]ns4 ,x w ?us be se5 t !re is pl5ty ( scope = ! +5uity ( a textile design] )\t 8 be+ ( necessity a draughtsman2 b a k ( draw+ w g5]ally be ( assi/ance to him4 ,= ! m elaborate patt]ns1 ! design] does n require to h ! same k ( manufactur+ t is requir$ = ^! small patt]ns4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #he ,twill+4--,x has already be5 %[n h[ ! patt]ns are b\nd or twill$ to =m ! texture ( ! clo? = ord9>y repeat+ patt]ns on a /raight ov]-tie2 b :5 a turn-ov] or ga!r$ tie is us$1 ! twill+ ( "o half ( ! ga!r$ portion w1 on ! clo?1 be ! rev]se1 or run 9 ! rev]se direction to t ( ! o!r portion1 & ?is is (t5 a disadvantage to ?is description ( tie1 z "o half ( ! bord] or patt]n1 :atev] x may be1 w look co>s] ?an ! o!r4 ,x frequ5tly happ5s t to avoid ! /iffness ( a clean turn-ov] patt]n1 :i* mu/ always h a cle> cutt+ l9e ?r\gh ! c5tre ( x1 s t1 if cut up1 "o half w\ld1 if turn$ ov]1 be exactly ! same z ! o!r1 a portion ( s+le1 or a turn+ portion1 is plac$ 9 betwe5 ! two turn$-ov] portions1 :i* 9 _m cases adds v consid]ably to ! effect ( ! patt]n1 ?\gh x is (t5 almo/ useless4 ,fig4 #he is a patt]n ( ! turn-ov] type1 &1 b = ! int]lac+ ( ! b&s 9 ! c5tre1 might be wr\ght ) a simple ga!r$ tie4 ,= ?is patt]n ! portion m>k$ ,b w\ld require to be s+le1 & ,a turn$ ov] to ,c4 ,p]haps x is 9 floral patt]ns t ?is =m ( tie is ( mo/ s]vice4 ,:5 a s+le tie takes up too mu* ma*9]y1 & a d\ble ov] or ga!r$ tie w\ld make ! patt]n too /iff1 a small portion ( s+le introduc$1 z at ,b1 is ( great s]vice to ! design] 9 mak+ a pleas+ patt]n4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hf ,:5 twill+ a patt]n ( ?is description1 ! portion m>k$ ,a w\ld be twill$ /raight across1 & ?is twill+ w\ld be cont9u$ to ! c5tre ( ,b1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #hf1 :i* gives ! idea1 ! spots 9 ! c5tre be+ tak5 z ! s+le portion4 ,! portion m>k$ ,c is repeat$ f ! fir/ "p ,a by ! h>ness1 & does n require to be put on ! pa9t+2 9 ! figure x is %[n 79 diff]5t type7 z x w\ld fall on ! clo?4 ,x may be se5 t ! twill+ dots on ! la/ l9e ( ,a & ! fir/ l9e ( ,c are alike1 & t e pair ( l9es corresponds1 mov+ f ^! to ! edges ( ! patt]n4 ,n[ a turn mu/ be made 9 ! twill 9 ! s+le portion s z to make x jo9 correctly ) ,c1 & ?is %\ld be done 9 su* a mann] z to prev5t x f %[+ pla9ly on ! clo?1 or hav+ too long floats on "s ( ! ?reads :ile o!rs are too closely b\nd4 ,?is mu/ be done by sett+ ! dots out ( _! places on a few l9es 9 ! c5tre1 s z to make ! jo9 produce z ev5 a texture z possible4 ,advantage %\ld always be tak5 ( any portions ( ! patt]n t come on ?is "p1 su* z ! spots 9 ,fig4 #hf1 to turn ! twill r\nd ! edges ( !m4 ,by foll[+ ! dots on ! design pap]1 x w be se5 h[ !y are br\ght 9 at ! jo94 ,any twill may be brok5 simil>ly1 b a diff]5t numb] ( ?reads 9 ! s+le w alt] ! arrang+ ( ! dots to jo9 ! two twills toge!r2 h[ev]1 :5 ! pr9ciple is und]/ood1 x c easily be work$ out4 ,,lett]s1 ,,mottoes1 ,,etc4 ,illu/ration ,a turn$-ov] m\nt+ or ga!r$ tie w rev]se any ornam5t1 b :ile = bord]s x makes ! ornam5t come correctly1 x prev5ts lett]s or words f fall+ 9 z !y %\ld be read4 ,?us1 if ! ^w ,,club 7 wov5 at "o side ( a clo?1 z at ,a1 & ! h>ness m\nt$ z a ga!r$ repeat s z to turn ov] a simil> bord] to ! o!r side1 ! lett]s w\ld fall z at ,b1 mak+ !m read correctly to ! "u side ( ! clo? in/ead ( to ! upp] side4 ,in/ead ( mak+ a ga!r$ tie1 x w\ld be bett] to make a pla9 repeat+ tie = ! second bord]1 mak+ ! ^w ,,club on bo? bord]s z ei!r ,a or ,b1 accord+ z !y are to read correctly on ! "u or upp] side ( ! clo?2 b if x is desir$ to make ! lett]s read correctly f bo? sides or edges ( ! clo?1 z at ,c1 x is pla9 t !re mu/ be hooks 9 ! jacqu>d to "w ea* bord] indep5d5tly1 z "o is n a repeat ( ! o!r4 ,( c\rse lett]s on damask w only read correctly on ei!r ! face or back ( ! clo?1 n on bo?4 ,! same pr9ciple holds good :5 putt+ names across ! clo?1 or = coats ( arms & mottoes 9 ! c5tre1 z is frequ5tly done 9 quilts1 tableclo?s1 c41 b 9 ?is case x w\ld be ! c>ds t w\ld d ! "w4 ,suppose ! ^w ,,hotel to be put across a clo? at "o end1 & x 0 requir$ to h ! same at ! opposite end to read simil>ly f t end ( ! clo?1 x w\ld require to be pa9t$ ?us1 ,illu/ration3 ,inv]t$ & rev]s$ ,,hotel1 or ! c>ds might be cut f ! pa9t+ ( ! =m]1 turn$ upside d[n4 ,provid$ x 0 requir$ to make ^! words read correctly on ! "u side ( ! clo? 9 ! loom in/ead ( on ! upp] side1 !n ! fir/ bord] w\ld be pa9t$ & cut z ,illu/ration3 ,mirror$ ,,hotel & ! second bord] z ,illu/ration3 ,inv]t$ ,,hotel ,?is w be be/ und]/ood by pr9t+ ! lett]s on trac+ pap] & turn+ x r\nd into ! position requir$4 ,9 case ( a motto or coat ( arms want$ = a l>ge clo? ) two c5tres 9 x1 "o c5tre to be correct f "o end ( ! clo?1 & ! o!r f ! opposite end1 z %[n by ! girdles at ,a & ,b1 ,fig4 #hg1 ! pa9t+ w\ld be z 9 ?is figure if ! upp] side ( ! clo? is to be ! "r side1 b if ! "u side is to be ! "r side1 ! fir/ c5tre w\ld require to be pa9t$ z %[n 9 ,fig4 #hh1 & ! second "o w\ld be z ?is turn$ r\nd1 ! top :]e ! bottom is1 n turn$ ov]4 ,x might be ?\ght t ! same pa9t+ w\ld d = bo?2 ei!r t cutt+ ! c>ds f top to bottom1 or backw>ds1 or lac+ !m backw>ds1 or work+ !m backw>ds on ! loom1 w\ld d = ! second c5tre2 b x w\ld n unless ! c>ds 7 turn$ ov] z well--t is1 to h ! outsides ( ! c>ds turn$ inw>ds1 & ! "r-h& end to ! left4 ,?is w\ld suit if x c\ld be done1 b c\ld only be done :5 ! jacqu>ds are made ) an equal numb] ( ne$les to ea* side ( ! ma*9e1 z #be r[s1 or #bjj ne$les1 to ea* half ( ! c>d = a #djj ma*9e1 in/ead ( #bf r[s to "o side & #be to ! o!r1 mak+ #djh ne$les1 z is usually ! case4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hg ,9 h&-loom di/ricts1 :]e old makes ( ma*9es are us$1 x is common to h #djj1 #ejj1 or #fjj ne$les to ! ma*9e1 & ! c>ds c be turn$ on ! cyl9d]s if requir$1 & are also wr\ght backw>ds or =w>ds to suit4 ,by cutt+ ! c>ds f ! pa9t+ 9 ! rev]se ord]--t is1 beg9n+ at ! end ( ! pa9t+ & read+ & f+]+ backw>ds--c>ds f a pa9t+ ( a fir/ c5tre c\ld be cut to suit = a second c5tre1 z x has exactly ! same effect z turn+ ov] ! c>d2 b all ! r[s ( ne$les mu/ be us$ except any left at ! fir/1 & ^! & any selvage mu/ be br\ght to ! end ( ! pa9t+ :5 cutt+ ! second set ( c>ds1 s z to get !m to ! fir/ end ( ! c>d4 ,! cutt+ beg9s1 z is usual1 at ! numb]$ end ( ! c>d4 ,repa9t+ ! c5tre to suit is ! safe/ way to avoid mi/akes4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hh ,:5 a "n is runn+ up ! side ( ! clo?1 lac+ or work+ ! c>ds backw>ds w rev]se ! read+ ( ! lett]s f "o side to ! o!r1 b n :5 !y are runn+ across ! clo?4 ,if ! loom is m\nt$ ) ! c>ds hang+ to ! front in/ead ( to ! back1 ! lett]s w\ld also be turn$ f "o side ( ! clo? to ! o!r1 & to be correct !y w\ld h to be pa9t$ or cut ! rev]se1 unless ! ma*9e or m\nt+ 0 built to suit4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,c>d-,,cutt+ ,,& ,,lac+ ,! m\nt+s :i* h be5 giv5 are ( two descriptions--! ,norwi*1 ) ! /raight h>ness1 & ! ,london or twi/$ h>ness1 ) ! c>ds hang+ to ei!r side ( ! loom1 z ! ma*9e c be turn$ ei!r way to suit4 ,= ! ,norwi* ties ! c>ds are suppos$ to hang to ! back ( ! loom1 b x (t5 happ5s t !re is n space betwe5 ! looms to admit ( all ! c>ds be+ hung at ! back1 & x is usual = "o loom to h ! c>ds to ! back & ! next "o to ! front4 ,:5 ! c>ds hang to ! front ( ! loom ! m\nt+ is ti$ up s t :5 f9i%$ x w be ! same z if m\nt$ = ! c>ds to hang at ! back2 & aft]w>ds turn$ r\nd s t ! back w be at ! front4 ,9 case ! back left-h& corn] tw9e is ! fir/ cord ( ! h>ness ) ! c>ds at ! back1 ! front "r-h& tw9e w\ld be ! fir/ if ! c>ds are at ! front1 & ! draw+ 9 ( ! y>n mu/ beg9 at x4 ,if ! loom is m\nt$ 9 ?is way1 & ! y>n drawn 9 f ! opposite side1 z if ! c>ds 7 to hang at ! back1 ! result w be a too!d or brok5-up appe>ance r\nd ! edges ( ! patt]n4 ,! same c>ds w d = ei!r m\nt+1 b ! patt]n & twill w be rev]s$ on ! clo?--t is1 !y w run f left to "r on ! "o1 & f "r to left on ! o!r4 ,! effect produc$ on lett]s 0 m5tion$ :5 speak+ ( !m4 ,x 0 m5tion$ t jacqu>ds are usually made ) #ea r[s ( hooks or ne$les1 ( #h1 #aj1 or #ab 9 ! r[1 be+ = #djj1 #ejj1 & #fjj ma*9es respectively1 :i* are ^? mo/ us$2 #bjj & #cjj ma*9es are us$ = small m\nt+s1 b !y may be consid]$ z half #djj & #fjj ma*9es4 ,sometimes ! ma*9es are made ( any size requir$--t is1 ) any desir$ numb] ( r[s ( holes 9 ! ne$le bo>ds4 ,! objection to ?is is t ! c>ds _c be copi$ on ! ord9>y repeat+ ma*9es2 b piano c>d-cutt+ ma*9es c be made ) ! index to suit = cutt+ any l5g? ( c>d4 ,:5 us+ #djj1 #ejj1 or #fjj ma*9es1 or ! d\ble sizes1 #hjj1 #ajjj1 or #abjj1 & m ?an "o is requir$ = ! m\nt+1 a second mu/ be us$1 su* z an #h & a #d1 or a #ab & a #f2 a #ab & a #e w\ld n d s well1 z ! #ab has #ab ne$les 9 ! r[ & a #e has b #aj4 ,x w\ld be bett] to use a #ab & a #f & leave #ajj hooks idle1 if only #agjj are requir$4 ,if a #ab & a #e is to be us$ x may be done by hav+ ! cumb] bo>d made #ab 9 ! r[1 b made f9] 9 ! proportion ( #ab to #aj2 !n1 :]e ! #ab-r[ h>ness is to pass ?r\gh x1 e six? r[ ( holes c be left empty1 & x w be all "r = ! #aj-r[ h>ness f ! #ejj ma*9e4 ,designs are pa9t$ ^u ! po9t pap] = ! purpose ( enabl+ !m to be transf]r$ to ! c>ds1 :i* act on ! ne$les ( ! jacqu>d1 & cause ! prop] w>p ?reads to be rais$4 ,! patt]n is put ^u ! c>ds by pun*+ holes 9 !m1 "o hole be+ pun*$ = ea* *eck on ! design pap] t is fill$ 9 ) col\r1 or x may be ! rev]se ( ?is1 or o!rwise1 accord+ to circum/ances4 ,! common me?od is to cut ! r$1 & leave ! gr\nd or unpa9t$ portion1 & ! black1 :i* /&s = gr\nd4 ,!re is a c>d = ea* l9e ( ! design pap] = damask patt]ns2 ! holes 9 ! c>ds repres5t ! dots on ^! l9es1 if ea* l9e 0 cut (f & cut into sep>ate designs or l>g] squ>es1 !n ^! squ>es set up l5g?ways & laid toge!r4 ,take ! patt]n1 ,fig4 #gj1 & cut ! fir/ l9e f left to "r4 ,! c>d is %[n at ,fig4 #hi at ,a4 ,turn ! patt]n upside d[n & exam9e ! fir/ l9e to ! "r-h& side4 ,! two fir/ *ecks are empty2 two holes 9 ! c>d or two pun*es ( ! piano ma*9e are pass$ ov]2 ! next ?ree *ecks are pa9t$1 = ^! ?ree holes are cut 9 ! c>d1 & ! rema9+ ?ree *ecks 9 ! design be+ empty are pass$ ov]4 ,! next design has ! second & sev5? *ecks fill$ & ^! are cut on ! c>d1 & s on ) ! o!rs4 ,! two small holes at ea* end ( ! c>d are = ! lac+ tw9e1 & ! l>ge "o at ea* end = ! peg on ! cyl9d] ( ! jacqu>d4 ,! int]sections ( ! f9e l9es on ! c>d %[ :]e ! holes fall :5 requir$ to be cut4 ,?is c>d w\ld be = a #bjj ma*9e1 ! empty or unus$ ne$les be+ left at ! fir/ half ( ! c>d2 #bf r[s ( #h ne$les to ! c>d4 ,! c>d ,b giv5 9 ?is figure is ! fir/ ( ! heavy cutt+1 ,no4 #ag on ! patt]n4 ,read+ f ! patt]n z be=e1 pass #b1 cut #b1 pass "o :i* is black1 cut #c1 & s on1 cutt+ ! r$ & pass+ ! black or twill+ dots :e!r !y be :ite1 black1 blue1 yell[1 or gre52 !y are only !re = conv5i5ce1 to avoid ! tr\ble ( leav+ ! spaces empty :5 pa9t+ ! patt]n at fir/1 x be+ simpl] to dot !m ov] aft]w>ds4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hi ,! c>ds are numb]$ at ! selvage end1 :i* goes to ! sneck side ( ! jacqu>d :5 work+4 ,! design may be read f left to "r1 b ! usual me?od is to turn x upside d[n1 & read f "r to left1 :i* comes to ! same ?+1 beg9n+ to cut f ! numb]$ end ( ! c>d4 ,"s beg9 to cut at ! o!r end ( ! c>d1 & read f "r to left on ! design )\t turn+ x1 :i* is /ill ! same4 ,if ! loom is m\nt$ or ! y>n drawn 91 beg9n+ ) ! front r[ ( ! h>ness in/ead ( ) ! back r[ to ! left-h& side1 ! c>ds %\ld be read ! rev]se way f ! design pap]2 or1 :at w\ld be ! same1 turn !m ov] aft] cutt+ !m4 ,?is *anges ! top r[ ( holes 9 ! c>ds to ! bottom1 or f ! back to ! front ( ! cumb] bo>d4 ,9 case ( ! loom be+ m\nt$ f back to front1 & ! y>n be+ drawn into ! h>ness beg9n+ ) ! front r[ 9 ! cumb] bo>d1 ! c>ds1 if cut 9 ! ord9>y way1 w\ld give ! patt]n a brok5 or too!d appe>ance4 ,turn+ ! c>ds upside d[n w\ld rem$y ?is1 b w\ld only answ] if ea* "p ( ! m\nt+ consi/$ ( full r[s ( ne$les1 =1 if any "p began or end$ on a brok5 r[1 turn+ ! c>d w\ld take ! holes 9 x = ?is "p r[ away f ! ne$les3 t is1 say if ! h>ness 0 connect$ ) f\r ne$les at ! top ( ! r[ & ! c>d cut = ^!1 ! holes w\ld fall on ! f\r ne$les at ! bottom ( ! r[1 if ! c>d 0 turn$ upside d[n4 ,! c>ds %\ld be numb]$ on ! side :i* is upp]mo/ :5 !y are be+ cut1 & ?is side %\ld come aga9/ ! ne$les if ! "w is prop]ly c>ri$ out4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ij ,! old me?od ( cutt+ c>ds 0 = "o to take ! patt]n & call out ! holes to be pun*$1 & !y 7 pun*$ out by a second p]son1 a p]=at$ plate ov] ! c>d be+ sometimes us$ z a guide to place ! holes 9 _! correct positions4 ,a bett] me?od 0 f\nd 9 ! pun*+ plates %[n 9 ,fig4 #ij4 ,a & ,b are two plates h+$ toge!r4 ,b ,no4 #b %[s ! full upp] plate4 ,! c>d is plac$ on ! l[] plate1 & ! upp] "o clos$ d[n on x4 ,pun*es are !n fill$ by h& into ! holes 9 ! upp] plate accord+ z ! patt]n is read f ! design2 !n ! plates are pass$ ?r\gh a roll] press1 :i* pu%es ! pun*es ?r\gh ! c>d4 ,) small ma*9es ?is suit$ v well2 b ! fill+ 9 ( ! pun*es 0 t$i\s = l>g] ma*9es1 & %ortly aft] ! introduction ( ! jacqu>d by ,mr4 ,s4 ,wilson1 9 #ahba1 he introduc$ a me?od = fill+ ! plate ) pun*es to correspond ) ea* l9e ( ! design pap]1 z foll[s3--,ov]1 or 9 front (1 ! design a set ( upright cords is plac$1 z 9 read+ ! patt]ns on ! simple ( ! draw-loom4 ,on ^! cords ! patt]n is pick$1 & weft ?reads drawn 91 "o = ea* l9e ( ! design pap]1 = pla9 damask4 ,:5 all ! design is f9i%$ ! ?reads compose "o repeat ( ! patt]n 9 a loosely-wov5 clo?4 ,! upright cords or lea%es pass ?r\gh eyes 9 a set ( ne$les1 arrang$ l ^? 9 a jacqu>d ma*9e & ea* weft ?read put 91 :5 pick+ ! patt]n1 %[s :i* ( ! lea%es are to be drawn4 ,z ea* set ( lea%es is drawn ! ne$les connect$ ) !m come into contact ) a set ( pun*es arrang$ 9 a frame or plate1 & pu% !m into a pun*+ plate1 :i* is !n plac$ ov] ! c>d1 z 9 ,fig4 #ij1 & pass$ ?r\gh a roll] press4 ,?is me?od ( pick+ ! patt]n = c>d-cutt+ is /ill 9 use1 & an improv$ me?od ( us+ ! plates & roll]s is /ill f\nd v conv5i5t = _m purposes1 su* z copy+ c>ds & small patt]ns1 c4 7,see ,copy+ ,ma*9es47 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ia ,c>d cutt+ is n[ almo/ entirely done by #8piano ma*9es4' ,!y take ! "n ( piano f ! p9s or keys :i* are arrang$ = ! cutt]'s f+]s1 & to di/+ui% !m f an old] ma*9e1 :i* is simil> 9 make1 b 9 x ! p9s or keys :i* act z locks on ! pun*es are wr\ght ) cords in/ead ( by ! f+]s4 ,! cord ma*9e is simil> 9 make to ! piano ma*9e2 b ! cutt] usually sits at "o side1 & has ! bo>d or /& = ! patt]n fac+ him4 ,! treadles are also turn$ sideways2 b ! cord is put 9 at ! end1 z 9 ! piano ma*9e4 ,fig4 #ia %[s h[ ! cords are arrang$4 ,,aa are ! cords1 #ab 9 numb]1 :i* ! cutt] draws4 ,,bb are ano!r set f ! =m] ones to ! keys1 pass+ "u pulleys at ,c4 ,d is ! pun*-box4 ,! keys h spr+s on !m1 :i* press !m 9 ov] ! heads ( ! pun*es2 b at ! top ( ! cords are indi>ubb] spr+s1 fa/5$ to ! crossb> ,e on ! frame :i* supports ! cords1 & ^! spr+s are /rong en\gh to draw out ! keys4 ,:5 any ( ! cords ,,aa are drawn d[n ! cords ,,bb connect$ ) !m are slack5$1 & ! keys spr+ 9 ov] ! pun*es1 lock+ !m1 & pun*+ holes :5 ! treadle is press$ d[n4 ,! cords ,,bb c be connect$ f ! "r-h& side ( ,,aa to ! "r-h& side ( ! pun* keys1 & run f "r to left1 or !y may be ! rev]se ( ?is1 accord+ to ! way ! cutt] reads ! patt]n4 ,sometimes piano ma*9es are fitt$ to "w ) cords to suit ! cutt]4 ,9 ?is case !re is only "o set ( cords1 z ,,aa1 set beh9d ! pun* block1 & ! cutt] sits at ! end ( ! ma*9e4 ,in/ead ( spr+s1 weight$ lev]s1 or tumbl]s1 may be us$ at ! top ( ! cords on ! b> ,e4 ,:5 spr+s are us$ ! b> %\ld be l[]$ :5 ! cutt] is n work+1 by slack5+ ! set screws at ,,gg1 s z to relieve ! /ra9 on ! spr+s4 ,:5 work+ ! cord ma*9e ! cutt] uses only "o h& to draw ! cords2 b on ! piano ma*9e he uses bo? h&s1 & c proce$ quick] ) ! cutt+4 ,fig4 #ib is a view ( ,devoge's piano cutt+ ma*9e4 ,9 ^! ma*9es "o cross r[ ( ! c>d is pun*$ at ea* tread2 ! cutt] sits 9 front ( ! ma*9e1 ) ! design fa/5$ on ! frame be=e him1 z %[n 9 ! figure4 ,! /raight-edge1 or rul]1 across ! design is = ! purpose ( guid+ ! cutt]'s eye along ! l9e ( ! design pap] t he is cutt+ f1 & he screws x up or d[n a l9e1 z ! case may be1 = e c>d he cuts4 ,he keeps "o foot on ea* treadle & 8 f+]s on ! keys 9 ! pun* block1 ! arrangem5t ( :i* is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ic1 & presses 9 a key to correspond ) ea* dot on ! l9e ( ! design pap] on "o design1 or l>ge squ>e1 = ea* tramp4 ,! numb]$ end ( ! c>d is put into ! clip on ! index c>riage1 & ! guide = ! c>d set to suit ! wid? ( ! c>d us$1 s t ! pun* w cut ! holes 9 ! c5tre ( ! c>d4 ,! lac+ & cyl9d] peg holes are fir/ cut1 by press+ 9 ! keys ,e = ! peg hole1 & = ! lac+ #b & #g = an #h-r[ c>d1 #a & #h = a #aj-r[1 & a & c = a #ab-r[4 ,any blank designs1 or r[s ( ! c>d1 are n[ pass$ ov]1 by runn+ back ! index c>riage1 if ! design does n occupy ! full l5g? ( ! c>d1 x be+ ! usual cu/om to leave all empty r[s to ! selvage or numb]$ end ( ! c>d1 ?\gh x may 9 "s cases be advisable to be o!rwise4 ,! selvage1 if any1 is usually cut fir/1 & !n ! patt]n4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ib ,press+ d[n ! "r foot treadle1 :5 any ( ! keys are pu%$ 91 pun*es holes 9 ! c>d ) ! pun*es lock$1 & ! left foot treadle1 :i* works alt]nately ) ! o!r1 is = mov+ ! index c>riage1 :i* %ifts ! c>d f "o r[ ( holes t h be5 pun*$ to ! next "o1 s z to place x 9 position = ! pun*es4 ,9 ,fig4 #ic ! black dots repres5t ! heads ( ! pun*es1 #ab 9 numb]4 ,! keys #a to #h are us$ = cutt+ an #h-r[ c>d2 :5 any key is press$ 9 x passes ov] ! head ( its correspond+ pun*1 & locks x1 s t :5 ! cutt] presses d[n ! treadle & ! pun* block is br\ght d[n on ! c>d1 ! lock$ pun* is press$ ?r\gh x1 :ile ^? n lock$ rise up4 ,! keys a & c add$ to ! #h suit = cutt+ #aj-r[ c>ds1 & b & d add$ to ^! suit = #ab-r[ c>ds4 ,! f\r keys a b & c d c be press$ 9 ) ! two ?umbs4 ,e is ! key = ! peg hole4 ,a good cutt] c cut f #ajj to #aej c>ds p] h\r1 b ?is is labori\s = con/ant "w4 ,sometimes ! cutt+ ma*9es are driv5 by p[]1 b z yet 7#ahid7 ?is is n g5]al4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ic ,messrs4 ,devoge ,co4 c atta* an arrangem5t to _! ma*9es s t !y c be driv5 ) a belt4 ,! pun* block is wr\ght by a lev] driv5 by an ecc5tric1 & is kept con/antly ris+ & fall+2 ! cutt] f+]s ! p9s s z to keep "t ) ! pun* block1 & %\ld he wi% to /op1 or %\ld any?+ g wrong1 he c /op ! c>d at once by rais+ "o treadle & press+ d[n ! o!r1 :i* ?r[s ! motion = %ift+ ! index c>riage out ( ge>1 & ! c>d /&s /ation>y1 & al?\gh ! pun* block cont9ues to "w x takes no effect :5 ! pun*es are n lock$ by ! keys4 ,! ma*9e works v smoo?ly1 ) v little noise1 & ) a little practice any boy or girl accu/om$ to c>d cutt+ c easily become acqua9t$ ) work+ x4 ,! index ( ! piano ma*9e is g5]ally made = #ea r[s ( holes 9 ! c>ds1 #djj1 #ejj1 & #fjj ma*9es be+ ^? g5]ally employ$3 #ea r[s ( #h #djh ne$les2 #ea r[s ( #aj #eaj ne$les2 & #ea r[s ( #ab #fab ne$les1 :i*1 ) a few odd ne$les on ! #be-r[ side1 repres5t ! numb] ( ne$les 9 a #djj1 #ejj1 & #fjj ma*9e4 ,if l>g] ma*9es ) long] cords are requir$1 ! index ( ! cutt+ ma*9e mu/ be alt]$ to suit !m4 ,c>d pap] %\ld be ( su* a quality z w n be easily affect$ by ! atmosph]e4 ,:5 c>ds are = small ma*9es1 & are only requir$ to "w = a %ort "t1 an inf]ior pap] w d = !m1 & save exp5se2 b = l>ge patt]ns :i* are int5d$ to "w = ye>s x w come *eap] 9 ! end to get a good quality ( pap]--9 fact1 ! be/ t c be made4 ,specially prep>$ oil-saturat$ pap] is made = ! purpose ( prev5t+ ! atmosph]e tak+ too mu* effect on x4 ,= h& looms1 sometimes ! c>ds are pa9t$ ) r$ lead1 & sometimes ) %ellac v>ni%1 or %ellac 7be/ r$7 dissolv$ 9 me?ylat$ spirits4 ,c>ds are made ( diff]5t weights ( pap]2 "s pref] !m ?91 & o!rs ?ick4 ,a mod]ately ?91 t\gh pap] is ! be/4 ,ab\t #af to #ah c>ds to #a lb41 = #djj c>ds1 is a good m$ium weight4 ,aft] ! c>ds are cut !y h to be lac$ into a *a9 to revolve r\nd ! jacqu>d cyl9d] on ! loom4 ,! usual me?od ( lac+ is to h a frame ) pegs or /uds set 9 x at a di/ance ap>t to suit ! size ( ! jacqu>d cyl9d]4 ,! c>ds are spread on ?is frame z %[n at ,a1 ,fig4 #id1 & lac$ ) a /eel ne$le1 ?ick] 9 ! c5tre ?an at ! ends2 x is ab\t #b-a_/b 94 long1 & has an eye 9 ! c5tre1 ?r\gh :i* a piece ( f9e tw9e is ti$ 9 a loop1 & ! lac+ tape c easily be drawn ?r\gh ?is4 ,! c>ds at ,a are numb]$ #a1 #c1 #e1 b all ! numb]s w\ld foll[ 9 rotation if ! jacqu>d _h only "o cyl9d]2 if a d\ble-cyl9d] ma*9e1 half ! c>ds w\ld be lac$ =w>d1 z at ,a1 & ! o!r half 7! ev5 numb]s7 backw>d1 z at ,b4 ,! odd numb]s usually g to ! back ( ! loom1 & ! ev5 ones to ! front4 ,sev]al k9ds ( cord & tape are us$ = lac+ c>ds1 b two plies ( r\nd cotton cord1 well soap$ or wax$1 is usually ! mo/ satisfactory = we>4 ,:5 lac+ c>ds1 ! lac+s %\ld be cross$ ov]1 ea* "o pass+ f left to "r ( ! o!r 9 turn1 at ea* hole & betwe5 ! c>ds4 ,?is is important1 to keep ! c>ds /raight4 ,! c>ds %\ld be tightly lac$1 z ! lac+ is almo/ c]ta9 to /ret* a little2 s t !y are bett] = be+ r tight = ! cyl9d] at fir/1 o!rwise !y are liable to become too slack aft] a little we>1 & if su* is ! case !y w n fall prop]ly on ! cyl9d] pegs4 ,?is & o!r causes--su* z irregul> expansion or contraction ( ! c>ds1 badly cut c>ds1 & a long draw on ! c>ds--occasion consid]able we> on ! peg holes1 & n[ eyelets are be+ tri$ 9 !m to avoid ! break+-up ( ! holes2 b x is probable t good pap] & c>eful "w w prove a m suitable rem$y4 ,! c>d %\ld n be deep] ?an ! face ( ! cyl9d]2 bett] a trifle less1 to all[ = ! lac+ to pass betwe5 !m1 & !n if lac$ z tightly z possible !y w /ill be pliable & "w freely4 ,c>ds are usually numb]$ ) p5 & ink1 b ! numb]s may be /amp$ on ) an indi>ubb] /amp+ ma*9e simil> to t us$ = pag+ books4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #id ,lac+ ,ma*9es4--,! ,s+] ,sew+ ,ma*9e ,company br\ght out a ma*9e "s ye>s ago = lac+ c>ds1 & x p]=ms its "w v well1 ?\gh _m object to x1 z x /it*es a lac+ tape along ! c>ds1 in/ead ( lac+ !m 9 ! usual way4 ,! ma*9e is a #c-or #d-;head sew+ ma*9e1 accord+ z ?ree or f\r r[s ( lac+ are to be us$ on ! c>ds4 ,! lac+ is a tape2 "o tape is laid bel[ ! c>ds at ea* r[ ( lac+1 & ano!r above1 & bo? are /it*$ toge!r ?r\gh ! c>ds4 ,ano!r ma*9e 0 inv5t$ by ,c\nt ,sp>re m rec5tly :i* lac$ or sew$ ! c>ds ?r\gh ! ord9>y lac+ holes1 mu* 9 ! same mann] z h& lac+1 except t ! lac+s are loop$ on ea* o!r ?r\gh ! holes in/ead ( pass+ up & d[n ?r\gh alt]nate holes4 ,a /ill lat] "o1 by ,messrs4 ,reid ,fi%]1 ( ,dunf]ml9e1 & ,mr4 ,p>k9son1 ( ,brad=d1 has fur!r improvem5ts2 ?is ma*9e is n[ work+ v satisfactorily4 ,o!r ma*9es h s9ce foll[$4 ,copy+ or ,repeat+ ,ma*9es4--,!re are sev]al v>ieties ( ma*9es = copy+ or repeat+ a set ( c>ds aft] !y h be5 cut by ! piano ma*9e1 & x (t5 happ5s t ?is is requir$ 9 case ( sev]al looms be+ put on ! same patt]n2 or x may be t a set ( c>ds = "o loom is made up ( two or ?ree p>ts repeat$ sev]al times4 ,"o ( ! simple/ ( ! repeat]s is a small treadle ma*9e 9 :i* ! c>d is repeat$ by r[s1 ! holes ( ! cut c>d act+ ^u ne$les t pu% 9 ! p9s above ! pun*es1 :i* are simil> to ^? 9 ! piano ma*9e2 & ea* r[ is pun*$ by depress+ a treadle4 ,?is is a sl[ me?od ( repeat+1 b suits = small factories :]e x is n wor? :ile hav+ a m exp5sive ma*9e4 ,any boy or girl c repeat ! c>ds1 in/ead ( requir+ a c>d-cutt] to read !m4 ,a m useful ma*9e is ! railway press repeat]2 x is tak5 f ! old me?od ( cutt+ describ$ on page #adb4 ,! c>ds to be repeat$ are plac$ on a cyl9d] ! same z t us$ 9 ! jacqu>d1 & pass d[n ov] ! ends ( long ne$les simil> to ! jacqu>d ne$les1 b arrang$ 9 a box1 & ) long helical spr+s on !m4 ,9 a ?ick plate1 or box1 9 front ( ! ne$les is a set ( pun*es1 & ! /amp+ plate re/s 9 front ( ! pun* box1 close up aga9/ x4 ,by means ( a treadle ! ne$le box c be drawn =w>d1 & :]e !re are holes 9 ! c>d to be copi$ ! ne$les pass ?r\gh !m1 &1 press+ on ! pun*es1 pu% !m f ! box into ! /amp+ plate4 ,! pun*es h heads on !m t w n pass ?r\gh ! /amp+ plate1 b w g into ! holes 9 ! box or frame1 & :5 !y are pu%$ into ! plate x c be drawn away & turn$ ov] s z to prev5t !m f fall+ out4 ,! plate is !n plac$ on a box-plate made to hold ! c>d to be cut1 & some:at simil> to t %[n 9 ,fig #ij4 ,! box or h+$ plates are set on a slide frame ) roll]s to travel on1 & at ! end ( ! frame is a /rong roll] press4 ,! plates c easily be run =w>d to ! press1 & ! c>d pun*$ by runn+ !m "u ! roll]2 x may !n be tak5 out1 & z _m impressions f ! plate cut z are requir$4 ,:5 f9i%$1 ! /amp+ plate is tak5 back to ! pun* box & plac$ aga9/ x z be=e2 !n1 ) a comb1 or block ( wood1 set ) p9s1 all ! ne$les are pu%$ out ( ! plate into ! pun* box4 ,ano!r c>d c be br\ght be=e ! ne$les1 & ! plate fill$ z be=e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ie ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #if ,?is ma*9e is v useful = copy+ damag$ c>ds1 ev5 :5 a repeat] z ^? ab\t to be describ$ is at h&4 ,a damag$ c>d c be held betwe5 ! ne$les & pun*es1 & ! plate fill$1 same z :5 copy+ a set4 ,figs4 #ie1 #ig1 & #ih %[ ! pr9ciple ( work+ ?ree ( ! be/-kn[n repeat+ ma*9es1 :i* w copy a set ( c>ds at ! rate ( f #dj to #fj p] m9ute4 ,fig4 #ie %[s ! arrangem5t ( ! pun*es 9 ,nuttall's pat5t repeat]4 ,! pun*es are %[n at ,a1 & ! /opp]s or keys at ,b2 ! c>ds to be pun*$ pass 9 betwe5 ! blocks ,c & ,d4 ,b#a %[s ! %ape ( "o ( ! /opp]s :i*1 :5 ov] a pun*1 locks x1 & causes a hole to be cut 9 ! c>d4 ,! /opp]s all /& ov] ! pun*es :5 at re/2 ! c>ds to be copi$ are hung on a cyl9d]1 & act on a set ( horizontal ne$les1 g 7,fig4 #if72 ^! ne$les h upright wires1 m1 n1 pass+ ?r\gh eyes 9 !m1 & also ?r\gh eyes 9 ! /opp]s b4 ,! upright wires act z lev]s1 work+ on c5tres1 m2 & :5 "o ( ! horizontal ne$les g is pu%$ back by ! c>d to be copi$1 ! correspond+ /opp] b is drawn f above ! pun* a1 :i* all[s x to rise :5 ! c>d to be cut is rais$ up aga9/ x by ! block ,d 7,fig4 #ie71 betwe5 :i* & ! pun* block c ! c>ds to be cut pass1 s t no hole is pun*$ 9 ! c>d2 b :]e !re are holes 9 ! c>d to be copi$1 ! ne$les g are n press$ back1 & ! /opp]s are all[$ to rema9 ov] ! pun*es1 lock+ !m1 & caus+ holes to be cut 9 ! c>d press$ up aga9/ !m4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ig ,?is ma*9e has be5 sup]s$$ by "o 9 :i* upright rods act z /ays on ! pun*es4 ,^! rods /& on ! pun*es1 :i* h concave tops on !m2 ! upp] ends ( ! rods re/ "u ! b>s ( a grid1 or rebat$ plate1 %[n 9 section at ,p 7,fig4 #ie74 ,:5 9 ?is position ! pun*es are all lock$4 ,a set ( ne$les are connect$ ) ^! rods1 & :5 ! c>d to be copi$ presses on !m1 ^? t are pu%$ back move ! top ( ! rods connect$ ) !m f "u ! b>s to ! spaces betwe5 !m1 :i* all[s ! rods to rise up ) ! pun*es :5 ! c>d to be cut is press$ up4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ih ,! pr9ciple ( a repeat+ ma*9e made by ,mr4 ,mc,murdo1 ( ,man*e/]1 is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ig4 ,! c>ds to be copi$ hang on ! c>d frame ( a jacqu>d1 z %[n at ,c4 ,f ! hooks ( ! jacqu>d to ! pun*es ,a are wires 9 ! =m ( a s+le h>ness4 ,! blank c>ds ,d pass 9 ov] ! block ,b1 :i* is /ation>y4 ,enl>g$ front & side views ( a pun* are giv5 at ,g & ,h4 ,at #a1 #b1 & #c are %[n ! not*es cut 9 ! pun*1 ?r\gh :i* ! slide b>s ,e & ,f pass4 ,^! slides are also %[n at ,e#a & ,f#a4 ,! b> ,e is /ation>y1 act+ z a /ay = keep+ ! pun*es 9 ! box1 & ! not*es 9 !m1 at #a1 are long en\gh to let !m slide up & d[n on ! b>4 ,! slide ,f is drawn out be=e ! jacqu>d is drawn1 & pu%$ 9 aga9 aft]w>ds2 if any ( ! pun*es are rais$ by ! jacqu>d1 ! not* #c w be rais$ to ! position ( ! not* #b1 & ! slide b> w pass ?r\gh ! l[] not*1 ?us hold+ ! pun* up1 & :5 ! pun* block is press$ d[n1 holes w be cut 9 ! c>d :]e ! pun*es are lock$ 9 ! upp] not*4 ,:5 ! pun* block is be+ sunk to pun* ! c>ds1 x is necess>y to h a spr+ 9 ! wires t connect ! pun*es to ! jacqu>d hooks1 & ?is is effect$ by hav+ ! wires made ) a slid+ jo9t & a small spiral spr+ on !m1 z %[n at ,l4 ,! pr9ciple ( ,devoge's repeat] is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ih4 ,?is is "o ( ! olde/ ma*9es 9 ! m>ket1 & !re are v>i\s op9ions z to :e!r x is excell$ by any ( ! o!rs1 or n4 ,x is some:at on ! pr9ciple ( ! ,fr5* repeat+ ma*9es1 be+ wr\ght by a jacqu>d & h>ness1 ,e1 to :i* a second h>ness or set ( c>ds1 ,f1 is atta*$1 & passes ov] pulleys to ! pun*es ,a4 ,:5 ! h>ness ,e is drawn by ! jacqu>d1 ! cords ,f are slack5$1 all[+ ! pun*es to drop1 & !y are lock$ 9 ! pun* box by ! slide b>1 ,h4 ,! c>ds to be copi$ are %[n at ,d1 & ^? to be cut pass ?r\gh at ,c4 ,! pun* block is /ation>y1 & ! block ,b rises aga9/ ! pun*es ) ! c>d on x4 ,! blank c>ds require to be lac$ to make !m ready = ! repeat]s1 & also to h ! peg holes cut 9 !m2 blocks are provid$ = ! purpose ( cutt+ ! lace & peg holes4 ,an enl>g$ view ( a pun* is %[n at ,p4 ,,wir+ ,,c>ds ,aft] ! c>ds are lac$1 if int5d$ to be wr\ght on p[] looms 9 ! usual way1 !y require to be #8wir$'--t is1 to h pieces ( /raight /iff wire1 ab\t #b 94 long] ?an ! c>ds1 ti$ across !m to ! lac+1 s t !y may be hung on ! racks or frames prep>$ = !m on ! looms4 ,! wires %\ld project #a 941 or r m1 at ea* end ( ! c>ds2 !y %\ld be ti$ to ! "u side ( ! c>ds1 s z n to come aga9/ ! jacqu>d cyl9d]1 & x also be>s !m bett]1 be+ "u ! lac+4 ,a piece ( wax$ tw9e is mo/ly us$ = ty+ !m on4 ,! di/ance betwe5 ! wires dep5ds ^u ! numb] ( c>ds1 & ! height !y are :5 on ! loom4 ,= a small set1 a wire to e f\rte5 or sixte5 c>ds is a v good di/ance ap>t1 b = a l>ge set a wire to e tw5ty or tw5ty-f\r c>ds w be suffici5t 9 ord] to give a long] drop & take up less lat]al space4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,special ,,jacqu>ds ,,& ,,h>nesses ,,cross-,,bord] ,,jacqu>ds ,a difficulty has always exi/$ 9 work+ cross bord]s on h&k]*iefs1 clo?s1 c41 s z to avoid hav+ to %ift or *ange ! c>ds1 & also to d )\t ! exp5se ( gett+ a complete set ( c>ds cut = ! :ole clo?4 ,x may be also t diff]5t patt]ns are requir$ on ! clo?1 su* z cross b&s ( small figures1 & if1 say1 tw5ty c>ds w\ld make a repeat ( "o figure1 & x 0 requir$ to weave1 say1 #ajj repeats ( ?is1 & !n *ange to1 say1 fifty repeats ( "s o!r figure1 ! same difficulty w\ld arise z ) cross bord]s4 ,:5 !re is only a %ort di/ance betwe5 ! *anges ( patt]n1 x w g5]ally be f\nd m pr(itable1 all ?+s consid]$1 to h ! complete set ( c>ds cut1 s z to require no *ang+1 p>ticul>ly if ! patt]n w run = a l5g? ( "t2 b :5 ! patt]ns or clo?s are long1 ! c>ds become v exp5sive1 & ev5 if x w\ld be desirable to get a complete set = ! full clo?1 x may be t !re w\ld n be space on ! looms to hold !m1 ov] #ae1jjj c>ds be+ sometimes requir$ to weave a complete tableclo?4 ,_m me?ods h be5 adopt$ to rem$y ! inconv5i5ce & to save exp5se4 ,a few ( !m w be giv51 b x mu/ be left to manufactur]s to judge :e!r !y w\ld prove an advantage to !m or n4 ,= weav+ clo?s or curta9s x is a common practice to h ! cross-bord] c>ds & "o repeat ( ! c5tre patt]n cut4 ,! c>d rack is made z 9 ,no4 #b 7,fig4 #ii74 ,:5 ei!r ! bord] or c5tre c>ds are work+1 !y are put into ! holl[ "p ( ! rack or c>d frame1 z at ,f1 & ! o!r set is hung on ! flat re/ ( ! frame1 at ei!r ,d or ,e4 ,:5 a *ange is to be made1 a c>d-%ift] has to g up & *ange f "o set to ! o!r1 lift+ ! set t _h be5 work+ out ( ! holl[ ( ! frame1 & putt+ x back or =w>d on ! re/ ,d or ,e1 & br++ ! set :i* is to "w d[n into ! place ( ^? remov$4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 is exp5sive1 gives a great deal ( tr\ble1 & is sev]e on ! c>ds2 at ! same "t1 9 _m cases x is f\nd to answ] z well z any me?od yet adopt$1 p>ticul>ly :]e space is a consid]ation1 & :5 two or m sets ( c>ds are us$1 9 case ( two or m ma*9es4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ii ,a bett] plan is to h a slid+-c>d frame1 z %[n 9 ,no4 #a ( ! same figure4 ,a is ! frame = ! roll]s ov] :i* ! c>ds travel1 ,b1 ,b are two b>s on :i* ! c>d frame ,c1 ) ! roll] frame ,a atta*$1 travels4 ,! c>d frame is only %[n 9 end view4 ,two ( ^! mu/ be = ea* set ( c>ds1 & ! :ole frame mu/ be fa/5$ toge!r complete = all ! c>ds requir$1 s t x w all slide on ! b>s ,b1 ,b4 ,suppose !re are two ma*9es work+ !re mu/ be f\r c>d racks2 on two ( ^! ! c5tre c>ds are hung1 & on ! o!r two ! bord] c>ds4 ,ei!r set c be plac$ opposite ! cyl9d]s ( ! jacqu>d1 & wr\ght z long z is requir$2 !n !y mu/ be tak5 (f ! cyl9d]s1 ! c>d frame %ift$ till ! o!r set ( c>ds comes into _! place1 :5 !y c be put on ! cyl9d]s & wr\ght ov]4 ,?is is a v good plan = work+ long clo?s1 b takes up a good deal ( space1 & = m ?an two ma*9es might 9 _m cases be unsuitable4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ajj ,ano!r me?od is to h two sets ( c>d irons1 "o above ! o!r2 ! bord] c>ds are hung on ! l[] frame1 & ! c5tre c>ds on ! upp] "o4 ,! c5tre c>ds w "w 9 ! usual way1 & :5 ! bord] is to be wr\ght ! c>ds = x are tak5 r\nd ! c5tre set1 :i*1 ( c\rse1 are tak5 (f ! cyl9d]4 ,! roll]s mu/ be made to %ift s z to direct ! c>ds prop]ly into _! respective frames2 ! top frame is small] ?an ! bottom "o1 & f>!r out f ! ma*9e4 ,if hooks & eyes are sewn on ! fir/ & la/ c>ds ( ^! sets1 ! weav] c hook !m toge!r :5 a fre% patt]n is requir$1 s t ! "o set w c>ry ! o!r r\nd ! cyl9d]4 ,!n1 by draw+ a cord1 ! roll]s %\ld *ange position s z to direct ! fall+ c>ds into ! prop] frame4 ,! c>d irons are ( ! usual %ape1 & ! di/ance betwe5 ! upp] & l[] ones may be regulat$ by circum/ances4 ,ano!r simple me?od is to h ! c>d frame made ) a d\ble curve 9 x1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ajj4 ,"o set ( c>ds hang 9 ea* ( ^! curves1 z at ,a & ,b4 ,! set 9 ! curve ,a c be wr\ght ov] z long z requir$2 !n ^! c>ds c be tak5 (f ! cyl9d] & ! set at ,b put ov] x4 ,"o ?+ mu/ be obs]v$3 t ! frame & roll]s be s plac$ t ! c>ds c be guid$ into ! receptacle ,b1 & to d ?is !re mu/ be a consid]able fall = ! c>ds1 s t = a loom ) a l[ fram+ ?is might n be feasible4 ,o!rwise1 x is a simple me?od ( arrang+ two small lots ( c>ds1 & if "o lot is mu* l>g] ?an ! o!r1 let ,a be a n>r[ curve1 & ! small lot ( c>ds hang 9 x1 :i* w less5 ! slant ( ! c>ds fall+ to ,b4 ,al?\gh su* arrangem5ts z ! =ego+ are requir$ :]e !re is mu* ma*9]y us$1 x is evid5t t = frequ5t *anges !y w\ld take up q too mu* "t4 ,sev]al ma*9es h be5 made = ! purpose ( *ang+ f "o set ( c>ds to ano!r )\t hav+ to move ! c>ds4 ,! pr9ciple ( ^! ma*9es is to h two cyl9d]s1 "o at ea* side2 "o set ( c>ds is plac$ on "o cyl9d]1 & ! o!r set on ! o!r cyl9d]1 s t by work+ "o or o!r cyl9d]1 z requir$1 ei!r bord] or c5tre may be wov54 ,no4 #a 7,fig4 #aja7 %[s a plan t 0 tri$ "s "t ago1 b did n "w satisfactorily4 ,! ne$les pass$ ?r\gh a ne$le bo>d at ea* side ( ! ma*9e1 z at ,a & ,b1 & _h small spiral spr+s fa/5$ on !m inside ! ne$le bo>ds4 ,! bord] c>ds c\ld be put on ! cyl9d] at ,a1 & ! c5tre c>ds on t at ,b4 ,! cyl9d] at ,a c\ld be wr\ght z a s+le-act+ ma*9e till a *ange ( patt]n 0 requir$2 !n ! cyl9d] at ,b c\ld be br\ght into action1 & t at ,a rema9 /ation>y & cle> ( ! ne$les4 ,! heads ( ! hooks 7 made he>t-%ape1 z %[n1 & ! blades ( ! griffe c\ld revolve into ! position %[n by ! dott$ l9es1 s z to suit ! work+ ( ! cyl9d] at ,b2 ?is 0 effect$ by ! weav] pull+ a cord4 ,?is ma*9e 0 giv5 up1 z x 0 difficult to keep x 9 ord]4 ,ano!r me?od is %[n at ,no4 #b 7,fig4 #aja71 :]e !re are two griffes--"o at ,f1 & ! o!r at ,g2 "o cyl9d] works at ,e1 & ! o!r at ,d4 ,only "o set ( spr+s is requir$ on ! ne$les--beh9d ! ne$le bo>d ,e--z ! spr+ ( ! hooks is suffici5t to act 9 ! opposite direction4 ,:5 ! cyl9d] ,d is work+ ! l[] griffe is /ation>y1 & :5 ! cyl9d] ,e is work+ ! upp] griffe is /ation>y4 ,! cyl9d]s & griffes are br\ght into action z requir$ by suitable me*anism4 ,?is ma*9e has n be5 consid]$ suffici5tly successful to make x wor?y ( be+ p]sev]$ )4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aja ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ajb ,! pr9ciple ( ,dav5port ,crossley's bord] jacqu>d is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ajb4 ,! upright hooks are z 9 an ord9>y ma*9e4 ,f\r ( ! ne$les are %[n at b1 & are made 9 ! ord9>y way1 ) ! exception ( ! eyes 9 !m = ! small upright ne$les d to pass ?r\gh4 ,^! ne$les d are connect$ ) a set ( horizontal ones1 z %[n at a1 & act z lev]s betwe5 !m & ! ne$les b1 ! b>s beh9d !m s]v+ z fulcrums2 s t :5 ! ne$les a are press$ back by ! c>ds1 ! ne$les b are also drawn back ?r\gh ! m$ium ( ! uprights d4 ,! c>ds lea/ 9 action are put on ! cyl9d] = ! ne$les a1 & ! o!rs act on ! ne$les b4 ,! cyl9d]s c be br\ght 9 or out ( action by ! motion %[n at ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d1 ,e1 ,f1 ,g4 ,a & ,b are ! cyl9d]s1 work+ on sw+ motions2 ,c ,a1 ,d ,b1 are connect+-rods = giv+ motion to ! cyl9d]s2 ei!r ( ^! c be br\ght into action z requir$4 ,g is a rock+ lev] c>ry+ a /ud on ea* end1 :i* "w 9 ! slots ,c & ,d2 ^! slots are %[n at ,d#a :]e ! not* at "o side ( !m w be cle>ly se54 ,:5 ! /ud on ! b> ,g gets into ?is not*1 ! cyl9d] w be driv5 out & 91 b :5 n 9 ! not* ! /ud c slide along ! slot1 all[+ ! cyl9d] to rema9 /ation>y4 ,by pull+ ! cord ,h ei!r cyl9d] c be wr\ght z requir$ ?r\gh ! connections %[n1 "o ( ! connect+-rods be+ rais$ & ! o!r l[]$4 ,f1 ,e are ! lev]s = driv+ ! rock+ b> ,g4 ,?is ma*9e works v well1 ?\gh ! pr9ciple ( its con/ruction is n all t c\ld be desir$1 & x requires a consid]able space4 ,x c be made a d\ble-lift ma*9e by hav+ two hooks to ea* ne$le & two griffes z 9 ! ord9>y d\ble-lift1 s+le-cyl9d] ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ajc ,! pr9ciple ( ,devoge's bord] jacqu>d is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ajc4 ,c ,c is ! rock+ b>1 = driv+ ! cyl9d]s1 work+ on ! c5tre ,d4 ,x is driv5 by ! lev]s ,f1 ,g1 & ! connect+-rod ,e4 ,! not*es ,a & ,b fall ov] ! /uds on ! cyl9d] frame1 & c ei!r be let d[n or rais$1 z requir$1 by ! cords ,k1 ,l & ! lev]s ,h1 ,i4 ,! ma*9e is an ord9>y d\ble-cyl9d] "o1 & ei!r griffe c be wr\ght to suit ! cyl9d] t is 9 action4 ,?is ma*9e c be us$ z an ord9>y d\ble-act+ "o1 z a s+le-act+ "o rais+ bo? griffes toge!r & br++ 9 bo? cyl9d]s toge!r1 or z a bord] ma*9e work+ "o griffe & "o cyl9d] at ! same "t4 ,ano!r me?od1 simil> to ! above1 is to h a d\ble-cyl9d] ma*9e ) ! cyl9d]s wr\ght by ! griffes1 !n h a /ud on ! crank-%aft :eel = rais+ "o griffe1 z = an ord9>y s+le-act+ jacqu>d1 & ! two connect+-rods f ! griffes made s t ei!r w "w on x4 ,a hook or cat* c be put 9 any conv5i5t place1 s t :5 "o connect+-rod is on ! /ud ! o!r c be hook$ out ( ! way4 ,! rods c be made to slide on to ! /ud easily1 & be fa/5$ ) a p91 s t ! weav] c readily *ange f "o to ! o!r4 ,,op5-,,%$ ,,jacqu>ds ,to obviate ! vibration ( ! h>ness z mu* z possible1 z well z to economise ! we> & te> ( x & to m9imise ! friction on ! w>p ?reads1 especially 9 weav+ patt]ns requir+ heavy lifts1 su* z w>p-fac$ patt]ns1 ,messrs4 ,prie/ley ,co41 ( ,brad=d1 pat5t$ an op5-%$ jacqu>d1 ! pr9ciple ( :i* is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ajd4 ,x did n1 h[ev]1 prove successful1 z ! tackl]s f\nd "s difficulty 9 work+ x4 ,! ma*9e is an ord9>y d\ble-lift jacqu>d ) "o cyl9d]1 & works 9 ! ord9>y way4 ,! hooks are made z 9 ,fig4 #ajd1 :]e x may be obs]v$ !re is a turn or cat* on ! l[] portion ( ! hook1 at ,a4 ,above ^! cat*es is a set ( b>s1 b1 l a /ation>y griffe1 & :5 ! hooks are rais$ by ! upp] griffe1 9 ! ord9>y way1 !y spr+ ov] ^! l[] b>s & re/ on !m :5 ! griffe beg9s to fall4 ,all ! hooks rais$ w\ld ?us rema9 up1 7 x n t ! cyl9d]1 press+ 9 = ! second griffe 7! ma*9e be+ d\ble-act+71 :i* beg9s to rise z ! upp] "o beg9s to fall1 presses back ^? hooks t are n to be rais$ = ! foll[+ %ot1 & z !y are held by ! griffe above1 !y spr+ back at ! bottom1 &1 cle>+ ! b>s b1 come d[n ) ! fall+ griffe4 ,9 ?is way ! hooks1 :5 once rais$1 rema9 up till press$ (f by ! c>d1 s t 9 ! case ( work+ a w>p /ripe ) an #h-leaf sat9 b9d+ ! hooks w\ld only fall = e sev5? pick4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ajd ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aje ,ano!r ma*9e has s9ce be5 tri$1 b did n "w satisfactorily4 ,9 ?is ma*9e ! lift+ hooks are =m$ ) loops or hooks1 9 addition to ! top hooks4 ,! hooks are lift$ 9 ! ord9>y way by ! griffes2 & upp] knives1 made to reciprocate horizontally1 cat* ! rais$ hooks & support !m4 ,by suitably tim+ ! motions ( ! c>d cyl9d] ! hooks may be kept up z long z requir$ by be+ transf]r$ f "o set ( knives to ! o!r4 ,! %ape ( ! hooks & ne$les is %[n 9 ,fig4 #aje4 ,! ne$les may be z at b or b#a4 ,?is ma*9e acts z an ord9>y d\ble-lift jacqu>d1 b has only "o set ( ne$les1 :i* pass ?r\gh ne$le bo>ds at ea* side ( ! ma*9e1 & are act$ ^u by two c>d cyl9d]s4 ,no spr+s are requir$1 ! hooks act+ z spr+s to keep ! ne$les 9 position4 ,! cyl9d]s are driv5 by a tappet1 & c be held aga9/ ! ne$les z long z requir$2 "o cyl9d] mu/ press on !m :5 ! griffes are pass+1 s z to prev5t ^? hooks :i* are desc5d+ f be+ tak5 up by ! asc5d+ griffe4 ,!re are two griffes2 ?ree ( ! knives ( ! "o are %[n at #a1 #c1 #e1 & ?ree ( ! o!r at #b1 #d1 #f4 ,:5 ^! knives lift ! hooks by ! l[] loops or hooks on !m1 !y deposit !m on to a set ( knives1 a1 a1 a1 a1 9 an upp] grid or grat+1 :i* has a lat]al or horizontal motion4 ,! l[] knives raise ! tops ( ! hooks slightly above ^! upp] knives1 s z to cle> !m1 & ! upp] grid is !n mov$ sideways1 tak+ ! knives f "u "o set ( heads ( ! hooks & plac+ !m "u ano!r set4 ,ea* "t ! griffe rises all ! hooks n act$ ^u by ! c>ds w be deposit$ on ! upp] grat+1 & w be transf]r$ f "o knife to ano!r at ea* lift1 till ! c>d act+ ^u ! ne$les keeps !m cle> ( ! upp] grat+ & all[s !m to fall ) ! desc5d+ griffe4 ,9 ?is ma*9e ! tugs or tail cords1 z us$ ) d\ble-lift ma*9es1 are n requir$1 ! d\ble hooks s]v+ = two s+le ones4 ,o!r ef=ts h be5 made 9 ?is direction1 b ! plan ( us+ small pulleys on ! tail cords1 betwe5 ! pairs ( hooks1 to :i* ! neck tw9es are hung1 is ! only "o wor? m5tion4 ,! same pr9ciple w be f\nd = work+ ! %afts 9 ,fig4 #aae1 & is m suitable = a few %afts ?an = #djj to #fjj hooks1 or pairs ( hooks4 ,,! ,,v]d,l ,,jacqu>d ,ev]yone accu/om$ to "w l>ge patt]ns on jacqu>ds1 especially on p[] looms1 mu/ h f\nd ! inconv5i5ce result+ f a l>ge set ( c>ds4 ,! space tak5 up1 ! "t & tr\ble requir$ = *ang+ !m1 to say no?+ ( ! co/1 h be5 suffici5tly felt1 b h hi!rto _h to be borne ) z a matt] ( necessity4 ,= work+ f9e tableclo?s ) f #aej to #ahj picks p] in*1 or = curta9s :]e f #c to #f c>ds are requir$ = ea* weft l9e ( ! design1 & :5 f #b to #d jacqu>ds are us$1 ! inconv5i5ce & co/ ( a set ( c>ds rang+ f #aj1jjj to #ej1jjj are v consid]able4 ,! small jacqu>ds describ$ at ,fig4 #cj make a great sav+ 9 ! space tak5 up by ! c>ds1 z well z 9 ! quantity ( c>d pap] us$2 b x has be5 ?\ght t a /ill great] sav+ c\ld be effect$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ajf ,m4 ,v]dl1 ( ,p>is1 has = a l5g? ( "t be5 endeav\r+ to p]fect a sy/em ( sub/itut+ a cont9u\s roll ( p]=at$ pap] = ! c>ds1 & has succe$$ 9 do+ s1 ?\gh x is d\btful if he w be s f> successful z to sup]s$e our pres5t me?od ( work+4 ,^! ma*9es 7 tak5 up by ,b5son's ,pat5t ,jacqu>d ,company1 ( ,belfa/1 9 ! ye> #ahgf1 b did n !n give satisfaction1 ! greate/ ob/acle 9 ! way be+ ! effect ( ! atmosph]e on ! pap]2 & z ! ne$les are v closely set toge!r1 x 0 f\nd impracticable to keep ! pap] set s z to act correctly on !m4 ,?is difficulty is n[ claim$ to be ov]come by hav+ procur$ pap] :i* is said to be less liable to be affect$ by ! atmosph]e ?an ! brass plates ( ! ma*9e4 ,sev]al ( ^! ma*9es h be5 tri$ 9 ,scotl&1 b x w take "s "t to prove !m ?or\ghly & get ! workm5 accu/om$ to !m1 z !y are mu* f9] ?an ! jacqu>ds 9 g5]al use4 ,! ,v]dl ma*9e consi/s ( a small jacqu>d1 ! ord9>y ,fr5* make ( ma*9e1 :i* is usually made ) #ddj & #hhj hooks = ! s+le & d\ble ma*9es respectively4 ,9 addition !re is a frame or box atta*$ to ! front ( ! ma*9e1 aga9/ ! ne$le bo>d1 conta9+ ano!r set ( horizontal & v]tical ne$les or wires1 :i* act ^u ! ord9>y ne$les ( ! jacqu>d1 accord+ z !y are act$ ^u by ! p]=at$ pap]4 ,fig4 #ajf1 ,nos4 #a1 #b1 & #c1 %[s ! pr9ciple ( ! ma*9e4 ,b1 ,b %[ ! ne$les1 & ,d1 ,d ! uprights or hooks ( ! ord9>y jacqu>d2 only f\r ( ea* are giv51 b sixte5 are us$4 ,n is ! face-plate or ne$le bo>d1 & ,o is ! clap-bo>d us$ = br++ back ! ne$les1 :i* h no spr+s on !m2 b ! hooks are turn$ up d\ble1 & ! back or turn$-up portion ( !m1 com+ aga9/ horizontal wires or b>s1 %[n 9 section above ! ne$les1 acts z a spr+ to keep !m /eady4 ,?is portion ( ! ma*9e is a complete jacqu>d ( ! ord9>y ,fr5* make4 ,9 addition to ?is !re is ! app>atus on :i* ! p]=at$ pap] acts1 & :i* communicates ?is action to ! jacqu>d4 ,x consi/s ( a box or frame conta9+ two sets ( wires--"o set horizontal1 z ,a ,a1 ab\t #f 94 long1 & t]m9at$ at "o end by a small head1 z %[n sep>ately at ,a#a1 :i* are call$ hitt+ wires4 ,! o!r set is v]tical1 z ,c ,c1 ( f9e wire1 hav+ a loop on "o end1 by :i* !y are susp5d$ 9 a frame1 & a loop 9 ! c5tre1 :i* passes r\nd ! horizontal wires4 ,^! are call$ ! v]tical ne$les or feel]s2 "o ( !m is %[n sep>ately at ,c#a4 ,! po9ts or l[] ends ( ^! ne$les pass ?r\gh a horizontal brass plate1 ,g1 call$ a guide-b>4 ,! hitt+ wires pass ?r\gh a guide-plate1 ,m1 plac$ s t _! heads w come exactly aga9/ ! po9ts ( ! ne$les 9 ! jacqu>d1 z %[n 9 ! figure4 ,! o!r ends ( ! hitt+ wires lie loosely 9 ! loops ( ! v]tical ne$les1 ,c4 ,und]nea? ! guide-b> ,g is ! curv$ brass plate ,i1 :i* is 9 lieu ( a cyl9d]4 ,betwe5 ! cyl9d] & ! guide-b> ,g ! p]=at$ roll ( pap] ,i ,i passes2 !re is j suffici5t room betwe5 !m = x to pass freely ?r\gh1 z x is mov$ =w>d by ! /ud :eel ,k4 ,! pap] may pass f "o cyl9d] or reel to ano!r1 or may hang 9 folds 9 ! same way z c>ds usually hang4 ,at ! po9ts ( ! hitt+ wires is a grid or pu%+ frame1 ,h1 ) an iron angle-b> across above ea* r[ ( wires1 z %[n 9 section 9 ,no4 #a at ,h4 ,!re is a clap-bo>d above ! small v]tical ne$les1 :i* is %[n rais$ at ,e 9 ,no4 #a1 & d[n 9 ,no4 #b2 ?is is rais$ & l[]$ ) ^! ne$les1 & s]ves to br+ !m all d[n :5 rais$4 ,e#a %[s ! way 9 :i* ^! ne$les are hung 9 ! frame t supports !m4 ,:5 ! ma*9e is work+ ! frame ,h has a horizontal trav]se com+ aga9/ ! ends ( ! hitt+ wires :5 !y are press$ up by ! c>d on ! cyl9d]1 &1 press+ !m aga9/ ! ne$les ( ! jacqu>d1 pu% !m back z an ord9>y c>d cyl9d] w\ld4 ,x may be se5 9 ,no4 #a t two ( ! feel]s are d[n & two are press$ up1 z !y w\ld be if two holes 7 cut 9 ! pap] & two uncut2 ! two t are up raise ! hitt+ wires connect$ ) !m1 & x w be obs]v$ t ?is raises ! po9ts ( ! hitt+ wires s z to come aga9/ ! angle-iron ( ! grid ,h :5 x is com+ =w>d2 :]eas ! two hitt+ wires t are n rais$ w pass ?r\gh1 & n be pu%$ back4 ,?is enables ! c>d pap] to act on ! ne$les ( ! jacqu>d 9 ! same way z if com+ directly on !m1 z c>ds d4 ,! cyl9d] has a slight v]tical motion1 ris+ ab\t #a_/h 94 ,! ne$les1 :5 ! cyl9d] is d[n1 d n pass ?r\gh ! plate ,g2 x is p]=at$ ?r\gh & rais$ by ! cyl9d] asc5d+4 ,:5 ! frame ,h is press$ =w>d ! clap-bo>d ,o is press$ back4 ,! c>d pap] is ( a special make1 ?9 & t\gh1 & is /r5g!n$ along bo? sides & 9 ! c5tre by /rips ( pap] pa/$ along x :]e ! /ud holes fall4 ,no4 #c %[s ! motion by :i* ! clap bo>d ,e is rais$ & l[]$ by ! slid+ ( ! crank$ b> ,f betwe5 ! two /uds #b4 ,no4 #d %[s ! size & pit* ( ! holes 9 ! h>d pap]4 ,^! are trac$ f ! pap]1 & lie diagonally1 two r[s ( #h mak+ "o r[ ( #af hooks 9 ! jacqu>d4 ,^! ma*9es are work+ 9 l>ge numb]s 9 ,france1 & appe> to give m satisfaction !re ?an "h1 p>tly because !y are bett] kn[n1 & ! ,fr5* workm5 are bett] adapt$ to h&le ! small p>ts belong+ to !m4 ,a co>s] ma*9e is m suit$ = ! ord9>y workm5 to be f\nd 9 ! factories ( ?is c\ntry4 ,b x is /range if a ma*9e ( a pit* ab\t half-way betwe5 ! ,fr5* jacqu>ds & ours w\ld n be bett] ?an ei!r2 n tak+ up s mu* room z ours1 & n s m9ute z ! ,fr5*4 ,h[ev]1 9 _m cases ! ma*9es we h 9 use are none too l>ge to give suffici5t latitude = ! errors (t5 f\nd cropp+ up 9 "w1 none ( :i* %\ld occur1 ( c\rse1 ?\gh !y (t5 d1 ?r\gh c>elessness or o!rwise4 ,= in/ance1 ! c>d cyl9d] may be a little (f ! pit*1 & ! c>ds may be affect$ by damp1 or may n be correctly cut to suit ! cyl9d]2 ! po9ts ( ! ne$les may be a little b5t by ! cyl9d]1 or by ! c>elessness ( ! weav] :5 turn+ back h] c>ds1 & ! cyl9d] may n be set q fair = ! ne$les4 ,mr4 ,mc,murdo1 ( ,man*e/]1 has made a v nice ma*9e ( ! same pit* z ! ,fr5* ones1 ) #a1bif hooks1 #af r[ c>ds4 ,x works z a d\ble-act+ ma*9e ) two cyl9d]s & two griffes1 b only "o set ( ne$les act+ on ! two sets ( hooks4 ,two ( ! hooks are %[n 9 ,fig4 #ajg2 ea* ne$le clasps two hooks & passes ?r\gh a ne$le bo>d at ea* side ( ! ma*9e4 ,!re is no spr+ on ! ne$le1 ! hooks =m+ ! spr+1 ! tops ( ! hooks com+ aga9/ ! cross-rods at ,a ,a4 ,o!rwise1 ?is ma*9e works 9 ! usual way1 & is v compact :]e a l>ge numb] ( hooks are requir$ 9 a small space4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ajg ,! c>d-cutt+ ma*9e us$ = ! ,fr5* sy/em ( "w is a v elaborate contrivance1 be+ m l a jacqu>d loom ?an any ( our c>d-cutt+ ma*9es1 at lea/ 9 s f> z ! h>ness is conc]n$4 ,! pr9ciple ( x is se5 9 ,fig4 #ajh4 a %[s ! set ( cords by :i* ! pun*es are wr\ght4 ,! me?od ( prep>+ ! patt]n to atta* to ^! cords has be5 ref]r$ to be=e1 b w be repeat$ aga9 fur!r on4 ,^! cords pass ov] ! pulleys ,b & d[n ?r\gh a re$ to ! l+oes ,c1 :i* keep !m 9 t5sion4 ,ano!r set ( cords pass f ^! ov] ! pulleys ,d & d[n to ! pun*es ,f4 ,:5 any ( ! cords at ,a are drawn ! pun*es connect$ ) !m are dropp$1 z rais+ ! l+oes lets ! cords pass ov] ! pulleys ,d4 ,:5 a pun* is let fall1 x is caught by "o ( ! angle-irons ( ! grid ,g1 :i* is press$ =w>ds :5 a c>d is to be cut4 ,! c>d pap] is on ! roll] ,,jh1 & passes d[n 9 front ( ! pun*es at ,i1 :i*1 :5 press$ =w>d1 pun* ! pap] betwe5 !m & ! block ,k4 ,any pun*es t are held up pass ?r\gh ! grid ov] ! angle-iron b>s4 ,only f\r pun*es are giv51 b sixte5 are us$ 9 ! ma*9e2 !y are "h drawn out ( scale to %[ !m m cle>ly4 ,?is portion con/itutes ! cutt+ ma*9e2 x is work$ by two p]sons1 "o beh9d1 to draw ! cords1 & ano!r 9 front1 to pun* ! pap] by depress+ a treadle ea* "t a draw is made4 ,9 addition to cutt+ f ! patt]n ! pap] c be cut f o!r sets ( c>ds1 z 9 a repeat+ ma*9e--cut ei!r on ! ,engli% or ,fr5* sy/em4 ,n is ! ,fr5* ma*9e1 & a set ( c>ds c be put on x & copi$1 ! cords ,o act+ on ! pun*es2 ,engli%-cut c>ds c be put on ! ma*9e at ,l & copi$1 ! cords ,m act+ on ! pun*es4 ,( c\rse1 :5 "o portion ( ! ma*9e is work+1 ! o!r p>ts rema9 idle1 & x might be bett] to h !m sep>ate if mu* "w is want$4 ,! patt]n is prep>$ = ?is ma*9e by h&1 work+ "o repeat ( x z foll[s3--,! design1 pa9t$ on po9t pap]1 is plac$ on a frame 9 an upright position1 & ov] ea* l9e on x is /ret*$ a v]tical cord1 :i* is tak5 z w>p4 ,! pick] !n takes a bobb9 ( weft & ins]ts x "u e cord t passes ov] a pa9t$ dot on ! fir/ weft l9e ( ! patt]n1 keep+ x 9 front ( all ! cords t pass ov] blank spaces1 j 9 ! same ord] z a %uttle w\ld pass ?r\gh if ! %$ 7 to be op5$ by a jacqu>d4 ,:5 ?is is done ! next l9e ( ! design pap] is pick$ simil>ly1 & s on1 till a complete repeat ( ! design is loosely wov5 ) cords1 :i* are made ( well-twi/$ h>ness tw9e4 ,?is process is some:at simil> to read+ ! patt]n = ! draw loom1 :i* see4 ,= col\r$ "w a %ot w\ld require to be work$ 9 = ea* col\r on any weft l9e1 ! same z x is to be wov54 ,:5 ?is is prep>$1 x is tak5 to ! cutt+ ma*9e & ! w>p ti$ to ! cords ,a1 ! weft %[+ ! w>p ends to be drawn = ea* c>d4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ajh ,,half ,,h>ness ,,& ,,musl9 ,,h>nesses ,s f> we h be5 speak+ entirely ( #8full-h>ness' "w4 ,?\gh ! pr9ciple ( m\nt+ is mu* ! same 9 all classes ( h>nesses1 !re are c]ta9 deviations peculi> to ea*4 ,"o drawback to ! full h>ness is ! am\nt ( ma*9]y requir$ to give a l>ge ext5t ( patt]n1 an upright hook & a ne$le be+ requir$ = ea* ?read 9 "o repeat ( ! patt]n4 ,9 a half h>ness only half ! am\nt ( ma*9]y is requir$ on ! same f95ess ( clo? to give an equal ext5t ( patt]n2 b x is only = a few classes ( goods t ?is me?od ( work+ is suitable1 l5o curta9s & musl9s be+ ! pr9cipal4 ,l5o curta9s w be m5tion$ "u gauzework1 z !y are wr\ght ) a gauze m\nt+1 b on ! half-h>ness pr9ciple4 ,figur$ musl9 curta9s1 ) a pla9 gr\nd & col\r$ fl[]+1 are call$ #8crtes1' or #8crte curta9s'2 ^! are n[ g5]ally wr\ght 9 a full h>ness4 ,figur$ musl9s are mu* ( ! same class ( clo?1 b are n figur$ ) col\r & t9t = ! half h>ness1 kn[n z ! #8common spott+ h>ness1' or #8book h>ness4' ,= work+ !m ! h>ness is m\nt$ 9 ! ord9>y mann]1 b only half z _m cords are requir$ = x z !re are ?reads ( w>p4 ,only half ( ! w>p is drawn into ! h>ness1 ! o!r half--e alt]nate end--pass+ ?r\gh x1 & be+ drawn into a pla9 leaf ( h$dles1 :i* is hung close 9 front ( ! h>ness4 ,9 f9e "w two leaves ( h$dles may be us$ z "o1 to prev5t cr[d+4 ,! gr\nd ( ! clo? is a pla9 texture1 & 0 =m]ly wr\ght by hav+ two leaves ( long-ey$ h$dles 9 front ( ! h>ness1 into :i* all ! w>p 0 drawn1 ?is probably be+ m conv5i5t = ! h&-loom weav]2 & besides1 a m ev5 pla9 gr\nd c be made ) ! h$dles ?an ) ! h>ness & "o leaf ( h$dles4 ,two %ots ( gr\nd1 or f9e weft1 are giv5 to "o %ot ( figur+1 or co>se weft1 usually cotton rove2 b to avoid us+ a pick-&-pick loom :5 work+ by p[]1 ! co>se %ot may be made by ?r[+ two f9] ones into ! same %$4 ,9 p[] looms ! gr\nd is wr\ght by rais+ ! pla9 leaf ( h$dles & all ! h>ness alt]nately1 & ! figur+ %$ is =m$ by draw+ ! h>ness ) a c>d act+ on ! ma*9e4 ,! patt]n is pa9t$ solid1 )\t any twill+ or b9d+ on ei!r gr\nd or fl[]1 s t ! figur+ %ot w be 9 a pla9 %$ = ! fl[]1 b w be loose or unb\nd ov] ! gr\nd1 & is aft]w>ds cut (f 9 a cropp+ ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aji ,! pla9 %$1 into :i* ! ?ick weft is ?r[n1 mu/ also conta9 ! %ot ( ?9 weft ?r[n 9 ei!r be=e or aft] x1 accord+ z ! figur+ %$ foll[s ! pla9 %$ made by rais+ ! h>ness or ! h$dles2 = suppos+ ! h$dle %aft to be rais$ & a gr\nd %ot ?r[n 91 !n ! %$ rev]s$ by rais+ ! h>ness & ano!r gr\nd %ot ?r[n 91 !n ! figure %$ =m$ by rais+ #ej or #ajj hooks ( ! h>ness1 ?is op5s portion ( ! la/ %$1 & ! figure weft w be ?r[n 9 along ) ! la/ %ot ( gr\nd4 ,:5 bo? wefts are :ite ?is is ( b little consequ5ce1 b :5 us+ col\r$ wefts = ! figure ! gr\nd weft w\ld be liable to %[ along ) !m & injure ! patt]n4 ,?is 0 orig9ally ov]come by adopt+ ! #8pap] h>ness' f ! %aft m\nt+ = weav+ pap] spots4 ,9 ?is m\nt+ two sets ( %afts & two h>nesses are us$1 "o beh9d ! o!r4 ,half ( ! w>p--all ! odd numb]s ( ?reads--0 drawn on ! back h>ness1 & ! o!r half--all ! ev5 numb]s--on ! front h>ness2 ?is w\ld be suffici5t to make ! clo?1 b a pair ( leaves ( long-ey$ h$dles 7 us$ = work+ ! gr\nd1 act+ z press]s4 ,on ?is me?od ( work+1 a gr\nd & a figur+ %ot are ?r[n 9 alt]nately1 z ei!r half ( ! w>p c be rais$ by ! h>ness = ! figur+ %$1 & a ri*] spot is ?us giv52 b /ill1 ! rove or figur+ %ot w\ld fall into ! same %$ z ! gr\nd %ot1 :i* may be se5 by exam9+ ! two spots giv5 9 ,fig4 #aji1 ,a be+ wr\ght on ! common spot or half-h>ness m\nt+1 & ,b on ! pap]-spot m\nt+4 ,! grey %ots are ! gr\nd1 & ! black ones ! figure4 ,h[ev]1 9 ! pap]-spot m\nt+ x is n necess>y to ?r[ ! rove into a pla9 %$2 any suitable twill may be us$ = b9d+ ! figure1 & w give a mu* ri*] effect on "o side ( ! clo? ?an pla91 & tie d[n ! gr\nd %ot1 :i* w g into a pla9 %$4 ,?is pr9ciple ( m\nt+ is n[ done away )1 z x has no advantage ov] ! ord9>y full-h>ness m\nt+1 :i* c also h a pair ( press] leaves ( h$dles 9 front = work+ ! gr\nd1 if desir$2 b !y are unnecess>y 9 a p[] loom1 except :5 a v level gr\nd is requir$4 ,a twill$ or flu%$ figure may be =m$ ) ! common half h>ness1 b only hav+ half ! w>p = b9d+ causes x to be loose & ragg$ r\nd ! edges4 ,to "w a l>ge patt]n1 p]haps ! mo/ economical way1 at lea/ 9 ! h& loom1 is to use a pressure h>ness ) two ?reads 9 ! mail1 & ) f\r press] h$dle leaves 9 front4 ,! numb] ( leaves regulates ! twill on ! figure4 ,! clo? may be wov5 pick-&-pick1 gr\nd & figure1 or #b picks gr\nd to #a ( figure4 ,:5 ! h>ness is drawn = ! figure all ! h$dles mu/ be sunk b "o leaf1 & s9k+ ! two front & two back leaves alt]nately1 rais+ ! back ones :5 ! front ones are sunk1 & vice v]sa1 w =m pla9 clo? ) ! draft #a1 #b1 #c1 & #d ov] ! leaves4 ,a #d-leaf twill$ figure c be made ) ?is m\nt+1 b /ill x w n h ! advantage ( ! full h>ness1 9 :i* ! figure c be v>i$ 9 twill1 & b\nd r\nd ! edges4 ,,split ,,h>ness ,! t]m #8split h>ness' is sometimes appli$ to ! pressure h>ness :5 wr\ght ) two ?reads 9 ! mail1 ?is con/itut+ a splitful ( w>p1 s t ea* cord ( ! h>ness controls a splitful ( w>p2 b ?is is only ! f9e/ description ( pressure h>ness4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aaj ,! split h>ness1 or #8%aft monture1' 0 inv5t$ 9 ! silk di/rict ( ,be?nal ,gre51 %ortly aft] ! introduction ( ! jacqu>d1 = weav+ ri* silks :i* h ab\t #djj ?reads ( w>p p] in*1 b mu* less weft--p]haps ab\t "o-fif? ( t numb] ( ?reads4 ,! h>ness is wr\ght ) ! ord9>y jacqu>d1 b !re are two mails & l+oes atta*$ to ea* neck cord1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #aaj4 ,a1 ,a are ! neck tw9es1 ,b is ! cumb] bo>d1 & ,d ! mails4 ,if ?is m\nt+ 7 wr\ght ) ! jacqu>d only1 x w\ld produce ! same effect ^u ! clo? z if two ?reads 7 drawn into ea* mail ( an ord9>y h>ness4 ,?is w\ld1 ( c\rse1 take away ! f9e appe>ance ( ! clo?4 ,to avoid ?is a set ( %afts1 ,c1 ,c1 are pass$ ?r\gh loops 9 ! tw9e above ! mails1 & are atta*$ to a set ( hooks 9 front ( ! jacqu>d1 or at ea* side ( x1 or may be wr\ght by a sep>ate dobby4 ,tw5ty-f\r %afts are mo/ly us$1 & are usually flat enamell$ iron b>s4 ,^! %afts are = work+ ! gr\nd ( ! clo?1 & c raise ea* r[ ( mails sep>ately1 z %[n at ,no4 #a lea%1 ?us splitt+ ! pairs ( ?reads t are connect$ ) ea* hook ( ! jacqu>d4 ,"o or m ( ^! %afts1 accord+ to ! texture requir$ = ! gr\nd1 are rais$ at ! same "t t ! jacqu>d draws ! figur+ %$4 ,no gr\nd texture is put on ! patt]n = ! c>ds1 b ! figure mu/ be twill$1 or h ! b9d+ m>ks cut on ! c>ds = x4 ,! b9d+ ( ! figure w be 9 pairs ( ?reads--t is1 two ?reads ( w>p mu/ s9k toge!r "u a weft %ot1 ?\gh on ! design ^! two ?reads w appe> z "o1 z !y are wr\ght by ! same hook ( ! ma*9e4 ,on acc\nt ( ! numb] ( w>p ?reads1 ris+ & s9k+ 9 pairs w n mu* affect ! appe>ance ( ! figure2 ?\gh x mu/ be co>s] ?an if ! ?reads 7 b\nd sep>ately1 & w also h a r\gh] or m ragg$ outl9e2 b to get a l>ge figure ) s mu* w>p w\ld necessitate a great am\nt ( ma*9]y if ! ?reads 7 drawn into sep>ate mails ) "o to ea* cord ( ! h>ness4 ,?is me?od ( work+ is surpass$ by ! twill+ ma*9es n[ 9 use 7see ,twill+ ,jacqu>ds71 ?\gh !y are m intricate1 & w\ld n suit well = a h& loom1 z !y are heavy to draw4 ,,pressure ,,h>ness ,?is is ! old draw-loom sy/em ( work+1 &1 old z x is1 is /ill 9 use on our mod]n h& & p[] looms on ! f9e/ description ( damasks1 & is n likely to be surpass$ = mak+ a good piece ( clo?4 ,mu* firm] ?an a h>ness1 & produc+ ! l>ge/ possible patt]n ) ! lea/ possible c>ds1 m\nt+1 & ma*9]y x took up its position 9 ! days ( ! drawboy1 & has held its own1 ) ! aid ( ! jacqu>d1 aga9/ all ! inv5tions ( mod]n times4 ,! pr9cipal advantage ( ?is sy/em ( work+ is t a mu* l>g] patt]n c be produc$ ) ! same quantity ( c>ds1 m\nt+1 & ma*9]y1 ?an by any o!r means2 b ! patt]n wr\ght by a pressure h>ness w n comp>e ) "o wr\ght by a full h>ness = f95ess ( outl9e or detail4 ,:5 weav+ l>ge tableclo?s ) #ajj or #abj ?reads ( w>p p] in*1 & f #ej to #gb1 or ev5 #ij 94 9 ! s+le patt]n--t is1 :5 ! patt]n is all1 or ne>ly all1 s+le--! am\nt ( ma*9]y t w\ld be requir$ to "w x on a full h>ness c\ld n be cr[d$ on a loom1 ! ,fr5* sy/em be+ ! only "o by :i* x might be attempt$2 & ev5 !n ! difficulty ( keep+ ! ma*9]y & c>ds 9 p]fect work+ ord] w\ld be v great1 n to m5tion ! co/ ( m\nt+1 patt]ns1 c>ds1 c4 ,! quantity ( h>ness & ma*9]y is r$uc$ 9 a pressure h>ness by draw+ two or m w>p ?reads into ea* mail 9 ! h>ness4 ,suppose we take #fj 94 ( clo? ) #ajj ?reads p] in* #f1jjj ?reads1 & all[ #c ?reads to ea* mail 9 ! h>ness1 or ea* hook ( ! jacqu>d1 #b1jjj hooks1 or f\r #ejj jacqu>ds1 w\ld be requir$ to "w ! patt]n4 ,z _m z six #fjj jacqu>ds are sometimes requir$ on ?is description ( "w :5 v f9e2 b ?ree or f\r #ejj or #fjj ma*9es are m commonly us$ on ei!r h& or p[] looms4 ,to "w "o ( ^! f9e/ patt]ns 9 a full h>ness #aj1hjj hooks w\ld be requir$--say1 six #fjj ma*9es ) #c ?reads to ea* mail #aj1hjj2 & almo/ d\ble ?is numb] ( c>ds1 ev5 ) work+ !m backw>ds & =w>ds1 w\ld be necess>y4 ,9 e>ly times1 :5 ! drawboy took ! place ( ! jacqu>d1 #f1 #h1 or #aj ?reads 7 put to ea* mail1 or w5t to :at w\ld n[ be "o hook ( ! jacqu>d2 & patt]ns 7 n usually s ext5sive z !y are n[1 s t ! cords ( ! h>ness 7 greatly r$uc$ 9 numb]1 b ) a proportionately co>s] effect ( patt]n4 ,! diff]5ce betwe5 a patt]n wr\ght ) a full h>ness & "o wr\ght ) ! pressure or any ( ! twill+ h>nesses1 is t ! outl9e is cle> & def9$ 9 ! full h>ness1 & ! detail & po9ts ( ! figures c be turn$ on a s+le ?read1 :]eas 9 ! o!rs ! edges ( ! figures w be jagg$ or 9 /eps1 & ! po9ts mu/ turn on :atev] numb] ( ?reads are lift$ toge!r4 ,! patt]n on ! clo? mu/ !re=e h some:at ( ! r\gh1 squ>e effect ( ! design on po9t pap]1 ?\gh1 ( c\rse1 r$uc$ 9 size1 b w be worse 9 ?is respect--viz4 t :]eas ! edges ( ! figure on ! po9t pap] are cle> & well def9$1 on ! clo? !y are n s1 ! r\gh edges to "s ext5t bl5d+ ! figure into ! gr\nd1 & n giv+ ! clean1 %>p effect ( a full-h>ness patt]n4 ,%ad$ effects are also co>se on a pressure h>ness1 b c be made effective if broadly treat$4 ,clo? ) #ajj or #abj ?reads p] in* does v well to h ?ree ?reads to ! mail1 & f #hj to #ajj ?reads p] in* suits v well = two to ! mail4 ,any co>s] set ?an #hj ?reads p] in* requires to be wov5 9 a full h>ness to produce good "w1 & = sup]ior "w no?+ less ?an #ajj ?reads p] in* %\ld h two ?reads to ! mail1 ?\gh #hj p] in* does v well4 ,:5 sev]al ?reads are put to ! mail1 x is also usual to put sev]al picks to ea* c>d4 ,! few] picks1 ! f9] w be ! patt]n2 b a good me?od ( regulat+ ?is is to make ! *ecks =m$ on ! clo? squ>e1 a little m or less accord+ to ! f95ess ( ! patt]n requir$4 ,?us1 if ! clo? is weft$ squ>e1 or a little ov] t--say1 #ajj w>p by #ajj to #aaj weft ?reads p] in*--pa9t ! design on1 say1 #h #h or #h #i pap]1 & give z _m %ots to ! c>ds z !re are ?reads 9 ! mail4 ,if ! clo? is to be weft$ "o-half ov] squ>e 7#ajj #aej7 ! same patt]n w /ill d1 b ) half z _m m %ots to ! c>d ?an !re are ?reads 9 ! mail4 ,if !re are two ?reads 9 ! mail !re w be ?ree picks to ! c>d1 b if !re are ?ree ?reads to ! mail !re mu/ be f\r picks to "o c>d & five to ! next "o4 ,?is w\ld be = a patt]n on #h #h1 or squ>e pap]4 ,if pa9t$ on #h #i pap]1 :i* w\ld give an extra c>d to e eight1 & if ! weft mu/ n be increas$1 !n f\r or five picks mu/ be tak5 (f ! numb] giv5 to ! eight c>ds & put to ! n9? "o1 = f\r c>ds ) f\r picks to ea* & f\r ) five picks to ea* #cf picks1 & ?irty-six picks put to n9e c>ds w\ld all[ f\r picks to ea*4 ,?is w\ld make ! edges ( ! patt]n a little f9]2 & if ! design 0 pa9t$ on #h #aj pap] x w\ld be f9] /ill1 z !re w\ld be m c>ds to a giv5 numb] ( picks4 ,9 ?is way any alt]ation requir$ c be made on ! numb] ( picks p] in* giv5 to clo? wov5 on a pressure or twill+ h>ness1 )\t di/ort+ ! patt]n by v>y+ ! numb] ( picks giv5 to ea* c>d to suit ! %ott+4 ,nei!r is x necess>y to h ! same numb] ( ?reads 9 ea* mail2 ! w>p might be mail$ #b's & #c's or #c's & #d's1 b ! m regul> !y are1 ! bett]4 ,if ! f95ess ( ! clo? requires to be alt]$1 x may be wov5 9 ! same h>ness )\t any alt]ation by v>y+ ! numb] ( ?reads 9 ! mails4 ,= in/ance1 a w>p ( n9ety ?reads p] in* mail$ #c's & "o ) #abj ?reads p] in* mail$ #d's w\ld "w 9 ! same h>ness4 ,simil>ly1 ! same set ( c>ds w\ld suit = mak+ diff]5t wid?s ( clo? by mak+ ! h>ness n>r[] 9 ! cumb] bo>d & alt]+ ! mail+ s z to keep ! clo? ! same set1 or x may be made a f9] set & n alt] ! mail+4 ,9 ei!r case ! patt]n w\ld be r$uc$ 9 size4 ,fig4 #aaa %[s a portion ( a pressure-h>ness m\nt+ :i* is simil> to t ( ! draw loom4 ,x is m\nt$ 9 ! same mann] z describ$ = full h>ness1 only t ! w>p mu/ be divid$ by ! numb] ( ?reads to be drawn into ea* mail 9 ord] to f9d ! quantity ( h>ness requir$4 ,! k9ds ( mails us$ are %[n at ,a & ,b1 ,fig4 #aaa2 x does n d to h m ?an two ?reads drawn into ea* eye ( ! mail1 z !y are liable to twi/ r\nd ea* o!r2 two w sep>ate easily1 b a great] numb] w n4 ,ord9>y full-h>ness mails answ] v well = a two-?read h>ness4 ,! mails are levell$ 9 ! same position z = full-h>ness "w1 viz4 ab\t #a-a_/b 94 bel[ ! level ( ! back & front beams = h&-loom "w1 & a little l[] = p[] looms4 ,! l+oes are heavi] ?an ^? requir$ = a full h>ness2 ! weight dep5ds ^u ! /r5g? ( ! y>n & ! numb] ( ?reads 9 ! mail2 #aj to #ab to #a lb4 are us$ 9 p[] looms = l95 damask ) two ?reads 9 ! mail1 hav+ ab\t eighty to "o hundr$ ?reads ( w>p p] in*4 ,= h& looms !y are usually made ( lead1 ?ick] & %ort] ?an ! wire l+oes1 & call$ #8leads'2 #aa to #ae p] lb4 suits = ?ree- or f\r-?read h>nesses4 ,light cotton "w1 su* z musl9 curta9s1 only requires l+oes ( ab\t sixty or sev5ty to #a lb4 = h& looms1 b f tw5ty-five to ?irty p] lb4 are us$ 9 p[] looms = two-?read h>nesses4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aaa ,! pr9ciple ( work+ ! pressure h>ness is be/ expla9$ by ! diap] m\nt+ %[n 9 ,fig4 #b1 :]e a back set ( h$dles takes ! place ( ! h>ness1 & a set ( gr\nd leaves ( long-ey$ h$dles /&s 9 front ( ! back ones4 ,aft] ! y>n is drawn into ! h>ness or back m\nt+ 9 ! usual way1 x mu/ be drawn into ! front or press] h$dles1 us+1 g5]ally1 a /raight draught = a sat9 gr\nd4 ,if ,figs4 #b & #aaa are exam9$1 x w be se5 t :5 ! %$ is op5$ by ! h>ness or back m\nt+1 ! h$dles 9 front s9k "p ( ! rais$ w>p & raise "p ( ! sunk w>p4 ,! m\nt+ raises all ! w>p ( ! figur+ portion on ea* c>d or l9e ( ! design pap]1 & leaves d[n all ! gr\nd w>p1 s t x is necess>y to h ! h$dles 9 front to b9d ! w>p & weft1 or =m ! texture ( ! clo?4 ,= an #h-leaf sat9 eight %afts are requir$2 "o ( ^! mu/ be rais$ & ano!r sunk = ea* %ot1 s z to raise ! b9d+ ?reads ( ! sunk w>p & s9k ^? ( ! rais$ w>p1 ! h>ness =m+ ! outl9e ( ! patt]n1 or rais+ ! w>p ( x 9 a mass4 ,! o!r six leaves ( h$dles /& 9 a middle position1 & ! long eyes all[ ! w>p drawn by ! h>ness to rise4 ,:5 ! ma*9e is drawn x is held up till z _m %ots z are to be giv5 to ! c>d are ?r[n 91 b ! %$ =m$ by ! h$dles mu/ be *ang$ = ea* %ot4 ,9 work+ b>s up ! clo? "o c>d w\ld be suffici5t1 & :5 ! ma*9e is drawn x w\ld be held s1 & ! clo? wr\ght ) ! h$dles2 ( c\rse1 no ma*9e w\ld be requir$ 9 ?is case1 "o leaf ( h$dles ) ! /ripes ( w>p drawn into x w\ld be suffici5t = ! back m\nt+4 ,= dices two leaves ( h$dles w\ld be suffici5t = ! back m\nt+1 ! w>p ( "o dice to be drawn on "o leaf1 & t ( ! o!r on ! o!r leaf2 !n "o leaf w\ld be rais$ & held up till "o dice 0 wr\ght1 :5 x w\ld be l[]$1 & ! o!r "o rais$ & held up = ! o!r dice4 ,= fancy dices & diap]s ! plan ( m\nt+ 9 ,fig4 #b is v suitable & simple1 b = a v>iety ( figur+ or fl[]+ ! jacqu>d is necess>y4 ,x w be se5 t ! press] h$dles h ?ree positions1 viz4 a sunk1 a rais$1 & a middle position4 ,! l5g? ( ! eyes is to all[ ! h>ness to op5 ! %$ :5 ! h$dles are /ation>y1 or 9 _! middle position4 ,!y mu/ be a little long] ?an is requir$ to op5 ! %$ at ! back leaf ( ! h$dles2 = a #b-;94 %$ a #b-a_/d-;94 to #b-a_/b-;94 eye is us$4 ,:5 ! h$dles are /ation>y ! l[] loop ( ! eye %\ld be fully #a_/h 94 "u ! sunk w>p1 & !re %\ld be ! same cle>ance at ! top :5 ! %$ is drawn2 "s all[ m4 ,! %$ = a pressure h>ness is usually v small 9 front ( ! re$1 & requires a v small %uttle to be us$1 f #a_/b 94 to #a 94 deep be+ ! usual sizes4 ,! dep? ( ! %$ t c be made dep5ds pr9cipally on ! ela/icity ( ! y>n4 ,) a l95 w>p a v small %$ c be made1 z ! y>n has b little ela/icity1 & if ov]/ra9$ w hang slack4 ,= x ! di/ance betwe5 ! h>ness & ! back %aft ( ! front m\nt+ %\ld be #aj 94 to #ab 941 & !re %\ld be a /ret* ( #bg 94 to #cd 94 beh9d ! h>ness4 ,! draw ( ! h>ness may !n be #c 94 to #c-a_/b 941 & ! %$ at ! back %aft w be #a-c_/d 94 to #b 942 ?is w all[ a %uttle ( #c_/d 94 to #g_/h 94 deep to be us$4 ,= h& looms ! %$ is ab\t #a-a_/d 94 at ! back %aft1 & a %uttle ( #a_/b 94 deep is employ$4 ,! %$ mu/ be made v cle> & regul>1 & ! small] x c be kept1 ! bett]4 ,) a good cotton w>p #g 94 is a suffici5t di/ance to h betwe5 ! h>ness & h$dles1 & w admit ( a l>g] %$ be+ =m$2 b x is n desirable to h too l>ge a %$1 z !re is a consid]able /ra9 on ! y>n1 & a small1 cle> %$ is m satisfactory4 ,?is w\ld be assi/$ by br++ ! h>ness z close z possible to ! h$dles4 ,"o drawback to ?is me?od ( work+ is ! di/ance :i* sep>ates ! h>ness f ! fell ( ! clo?1 or ev5 f ! re$2 & if !re is any ob/ruction to ! w>p ris+ or fall+1 su* z r\ghness 9 ! h$dles or re$1 or lumps on ! y>n1 x w n1 unless v tight1 fall into its prop] place1 & ! %uttle may pass ov] or "u x :5 x %\ld n d s1 giv+ a pick$ or d>n$ effect to ! clo?2 slack ?reads may cause ! same4 ,! w>p mu/ be kept z tight z possible1 & all ! ?reads %\ld be at a uni=m t5sion1 ! h$dles /ra9+ ea* ?read alike2 ! h>ness %\ld be z close to ! h$dles z ! y>n w p]mit x to be4 ,! space occupi$ by ! h>ness1 h$dles1 & trav]se ( lay %\ld be no great] ?an is necess>y2 !n1 ) a small b cle> %$ satisfactory "w c be produc$4 ,:5 draw+ a w>p into ! h>ness1 a boy or girl sits beh9d1 & h&s ! ?reads to ! draw]-91 :o takes !m into ! mails ) a wire hook1 & !n ei!r h&s !m to a second draw]-9 sitt+ 9 front ( ! h$dles1 to be drawn into !m1 or passes !m ov] & "u a pair ( rods ti$ across ! h>ness s z to =m a lease z %e draws !m 92 & :5 %e has all drawn into ! h>ness1 %e beg9s to draw !m into ! h$dles1 a /raight draught be+ mo/ly us$ = a twill or sat94 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aab ,! front m\nt+ ( a damask h& loom is %[n 9 ,fig4 #aab4 ,a1 ,a are ! %afts1 f\r 9 numb]1 b eight are g5]ally us$ = an #h-leaf sat92 ,b1 ,b are ! jacks2 ,c ! lams1 :i* require to be "o m 9 numb] ?an ! leaves ( h$dles2 ,d ! treadles2 ,e1 ,e#a ! upp] m>*es or jacks2 ,f1 ,f#a two sets ( c\p]s or lev]s1 ) _! fulcrums at f1 & load$ at ! out] ends ) ! weights ,g4 ,"u ! ends ( ^! lev]s is a b> ,n1 to :i* ! weights draw !m1 & keep ! h$dles up to _! middle position4 ,! cords ,i are n fa/5$ to ! h$dles1 b pass d[n ?r\gh !m to ! lams ,c4 ,! cords ,l connect ! c\p]s ) ! h$dle %afts4 ,ea* lam has two cords ti$ to x1 except ! two out] ones--i4e4 ! fir/ & la/ "o--:i* toge!r act z "o1 to avoid cross+ ! cords4 ,"o ( ! cords ,i is ti$ to ea* lam1 & also "o f ! jacks ,b2 b ! fir/ & la/ lams h only "o cord ti$ to ea* ( !m1 "o hav+ ! cord ,i1 & ! o!r t f ,b4 ,bo? ^! lams are connect$ ) "o treadle1 & ! o!rs are ea* connect$ ) a treadle4 ,( c\rse1 ! cord+ is made 9 ! usual way1 agreeably to ! patt]n1 two me?ods ( twill+ be+ %[n 9 ,fig4 #aac4 ,:5 ! weav] presses d[n a treadle1 "o leaf ( h$dles is rais$ by ! cord ,i connect$ f "o ( ! lev]s ,e1 ,e#a to "o ( ! m>*es or lams ,c1 & "o leaf is at ! same "t sunk by ! cord connect$ f "o ( ! jacks ,b to ! lam connect$ to ! treadle4 ,! o!r treadles act simil>ly :5 cord$ = a twill or sat94 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aac ,! cord+ g5]ally us$ = an #h-%aft sat9 is %[n at ,a1 ,fig4 #aac4 ,sometimes ! twill is run 9 ! rev]se direction4 ,9 ei!r case x w be obs]v$ t ! twill on bo? gr\nd & figure run 9 ! same direction1 :i* makes "o a sate51 or co>se twill1 & ! o!r a sat91 or f9e twill4 ,9 ord] to h bo? twills alike !y require to be run 9 ! opposite direction on ! clo?1 z %[n at ,b1 :i* w give a f9e twill on bo? gr\nd & figure1 on bo? sides ( ! clo?1 ) s+le y>n4 ,?is does n hold good ) e twill4 ,:5 weav+1 ! weav] presses d[n ! treadle :i* is connect$ ) ! jacqu>d 7ano!r treadle be+ requir$ = ?is purpose7 ) 8 left foot1 !n works ov] ! twill+ treadles ) 8 "r foot1 hold+ d[n ! ma*9e treadle till he gives z _m %ots to ! c>ds z are requir$4 ,:5 ! c>d is to be *ang$ ! weav] lets d[n ! ma*9e & draws ano!r %$1 /rik+ up ! weft aga9 )\t ?r[+ 9 a %ot or tak+ 8 "r foot (f ! treadle4 ,?is cle>s up ! %$1 & makes ! y>n /eady be=e he spr+s ano!r %$ ) ! press] leaves1 giv+ a regul>ity & firmness to ! "w :i* x is impossible to get o!rwise1 b :i* has to be done )\t 9 ! p[] loom4 ,! weft is /ruck up on ! op5 %ot1 or be=e ! h$dles h clos$ ! %$4 ,sometimes a sort ( dobby is us$ bel[ ! lams1 :i* enables ! weav] to "w ! h$dles ) "o treadle4 ,9 p[] looms a simil> pr9ciple ( front m\nt+ is sometimes adopt$1 sub/itut+ a wyp] tappet = ! weav]'s foot2 b a bett] plan1 z x avoids hav+ ! cords pass+ ?r\gh ! y>n & h$dles1 is to h a box tappet1 on ! ,woodcr(t /yle1 made ) solid plates1 & /ruck to give ! ris+ & fall+ motion4 ,! connections f ! tappet to ! h$dle %afts are made 9 ! same way z ! ord9>y ,woodcr(t tappet4 ,! jacqu>d may ei!r be a s+le or d\ble-lift "o4 ,"s pref] ! "o1 "s ! o!r4 ,! s+le-lift is m easily fitt$ up1 especially if ! numb] ( %ots to ! c>d v>ies4 ,:5 ! %ots on ea* c>d are alike1 p]haps ! /eadie/ me?od ( lift+ ! ma*9e is to h a box tappet /ruck "o up & ?ree d[n1 or "o up & two d[n1 accord+ to ! numb] ( %ots on ! c>d4 ,?is tappet acts on a b[l on a treadle1 to :i* ! rod = rais+ ! ma*9e is connect$4 ,= a d\ble-act+ ma*9e !re mu/ be two treadles & tappets act+ alt]nately4 ,! cyl9d] c be driv5 f ! ris+ & fall+ ( ! ma*9e ) a swan-neck or lev] motion1 or may be driv5 f an ecc5tric on ! loom ) a p9ion on ! crank %aft turn+ x "o to ?ree or f\r %ots1 z may be desir$4 ,:5 ! %ott+ to ! c>d is irregul> !re are sev]al me?ods adopt$ = lift+ ! ma*9e griffes1 "o ( ! be/ ( :i* is %[n 9 ,fig4 #aad = a s+le-lift ma*9e4 ,a is ! treadle to :i* ! connect+-rod f ! ma*9e is fa/5$ by a bolt ?r\gh ! slot at ,h1 or ! slot may be 9 any desirable place4 ,b is a rack 9 :i* ! end ( ! lev] works1 :i* keeps ! treadle b[l /eady to ! tappet4 ,e is ! tappet on ! tappet %aft ( ! loom1 & is made s z to act at e %ot4 ,d is ! fulcrum ( ! lev]1 & ,c is ! /&1 :i* is bolt$ to ! gr\nd & fa/5$ to ! side ( ! loom4 ,?is portion ( ! motion work+ alone w\ld raise ! griffe = e %ot1 ! same z w\ld be requir$ = a full-h>ness1 s+le-act+ jacqu>d2 b :5 ! griffe is rais$ by ! tappet ,e1 x c be held up z long z is desir$ by lett+ ! bell-crank cat* ,f fall 9 ov] x z %[n4 ,:5 ! treadle ,a is 9 ?is position ! tappet m]ely t\*es ! b[l1 depress+ x ab\t #a_/h 941 s z to cle> x (f ! cat*2 ?is is to all[ ! cat* to be easily pu%$ (f :5 x is requir$ to let ! treadle up1 or to drop ! griffe4 ,! cat* is mov$ by ! cam or tappet ,g act+ on ! bell-crank ,f4 ,?is tappet c be driv5 by a p9ion on ! crank %aft or by a cat* on ! slay4 ,x may be a tappet /ruck to suit1 or a b>rel ) a set ( lags or p9s on x1 s t ! ma*9e griffe may be rais$ & l[]$ 9 any ord] t is desir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aad ,an +5i\s me?od ( work+ ! h$dles ( a pressure h>ness by ! jacqu>d 0 inv5t$ 9 ,be?nal ,gre5 %ortly aft] ! introduction ( ! orig9al ma*9e4 ,x 0 us$ = weav+ ! ri*e/ silk damask1 :i* _h #djj ?reads ( w>p p] in* & ab\t "o-fif? t numb] ( weft %ots1 s t five ?reads ( w>p might be drawn into ea* mail )\t mak+ ! patt]n appe> any co>s] 9 ! w>p ?an 9 ! weft4 ,a sket* ( ?is m\nt+ is giv5 9 ,fig #aae4 ,a %[s ! hooks = work+ ! h$dles1 & ,b ^? = work+ ! h>ness4 ,eight hooks are giv5 = work+ f\r leaves ( h$dles4 ,x w be se5 t a cord f two hooks passes r\nd "o ( ! pulleys ,c1 & ea* ( ! h$dle %afts is atta*$ to "o ( ^! pulleys4 ,^! hooks may be rais$ by ! griffe ( ! jacqu>d1 :i* w\ld require to rise & fall = e %ot1 or ! griffe may be held up = ! numb] ( %ots to ! c>d1 & ! hooks = work+ ! %afts may be wr\ght by a small dobby4 ,:5 "o ( ea* pair ( ! hooks ,a is rais$1 ! h$dle %aft connect$ ) x is rais$ to ! middle position1 z %[n by ! pulleys #a & #b1 & ! leaves connect$ ) !m4 ,if nei!r ( ! hooks is rais$ = any %aft1 x w rema9 sunk1 z %[n 9 ,no4 #c2 & if bo? ! hooks are rais$1 ! leaf w be rais$ to its top position1 z ,no4 #d4 ,! leaves are drawn d[n by weights or spr+s4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aae ,,twill+ ,,jacqu>ds ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aaf ,z has be5 /at$ be=e1 "o ( ! drawbacks to a pressure h>ness is ! /ra9 :i* ! w>p has to und]go :5 =m+ ! %$4 ,?is necessitates hav+ a good w>p1 :i* adds to ! co/ ( ! clo?1 & 9 l[-class goods ?is consid]ation may h9d] ! sale4 ,_m me?ods h be5 adopt$ = work+ ! gr\nd ( ! clo? )\t us+ a pressure m\nt+4 ,"s ( ^! are expla9$ "u #8half h>ness' & #8split h>ness1' b none ( ^! me?ods w\ld produce clo? l ! pressure h>ness4 ,a twill+ jacqu>d to act simil> to ! pressure h>ness1 b )\t us+ ! front m\nt+1 or by disp5s+ ) ! leaves ( h$dles1 0 pat5t$ by ,mr4 ,%ields1 ( ,p]?1 9 #ahei4 ,?is ma*9e und]w5t sev]al improvem5ts1 & n[ !re are two v>ieties ( x 9 use1 "o kn[n z ! ,iri% or ,bessbrook ma*9e1 be+ pat5t$ by ,mr4 ,b>cr(t1 ( ! ,bessbrook ,sp9n+ ,company ,limit$1 c\nty ,armagh2 ! o!r z ! ,scot* ma*9e1 ! improvem5ts be+ made by ,mr4 ,%ields & o!rs4 ,! pr9cipal diff]5ce betwe5 ! two ma*9es is t ! blades or knives ( ! griffe h a horizontal or slid+ motion 9 ! ,scot* ma*9e to enable !m to get cle> ( ! heads ( ! hooks1 :]eas 9 ! ,bessbrook ma*9e !y turn out ( ! way or p>tly revolve4 ,a full description ( ! ,bessbrook ma*9e is "h giv54 ,fig4 #aaf is a view ( ! fram+ ( ! ma*9e4 ,k is ! cyl9d]1 :i* may be wr\ght by ! swan-neck motion1 z %[n1 b x is bett] to be wr\ght by a sep>ate motion f ! loom4 ,d is a cord atta*$ to ! h&le ( ! %e>s = rev]s+ ! cyl9d]2 ,e is a brass bu%+ ?r\gh :i* a %aft passes = rais+ ! griffe4 ,! %$d+ ( ?is ma*9e is exactly ! same z t ( an ord9>y s+le-act+ jacqu>d4 ,! griffe rises & falls = e %ot2 ! cyl9d] travels out & 91 b does n turn till two or ?ree or :atev] numb] ( impressions requir$ are giv5 by ea* c>d4 ,to prev5t ! cyl9d] turn+ x is only necess>y to raise ! %e>s s t !y w n cat* x4 ,?is is done by means ( ! tappet ,a1 %[n 9 ,figs4 #aaf & #aag4 ,! roll] ,h on ! %e>s re/s on ! tappet1 :i* is turn$ by means ( ! rack :eel1 :i* is fa/ on x1 & ! lev] ,l1 :i* is loose on ! /ud4 ,?is lev] is pu%$ backw>ds & drawn =w>ds by ! rod ,i1 :i* is connect$ to an arm1 ei!r on ! %aft = rais+ ! griffe1 or on "o = work+ ! cyl9d]1 & ! cat* on ! lev] takes a too? ( ! rat*et :eel at ea* draw1 s t ) f\r divisions on ! tappet1 & #ab tee? 9 ! rat*et1 ?ree %ots w\ld be giv5 to ea* c>d4 ,if x is requir$ to "w ! cyl9d] ! rev]se way1 x is only necess>y to tie ! cord ,d on ! end ( ! %e>s to a spiral spr+ made fa/ to any conv5i5t "p ( ! loom1 !n ! roll] ,c w be act$ ^u by ! und]side ( ! tappet1 & ! "u hook ( ! %e>s w turn ! cyl9d] :5 requir$4 ,b is a spr+ act+ z a pawl to keep ! rat*et f mov+ backw>ds1 & !re is also a spr+ %[n ov] ! cat* :i* moves x =w>d2 bo? ^! spr+s s]ve to keep ! tappet /eady4 ,!re are two sets ( hooks & ne$les 9 ?is ma*9e--! ord9>y set = work+ ! h>ness1 z %[n at ,a 7,fig4 #aah71 & a set ( twill+ hooks1 "o r[ at ea* side ( ! ma*9e1 :i* are mu* /rong] ?an ! o!rs4 ,! ends ( ! twill+ hooks are hook$ r\nd b>s1 :i* pass ?r\gh ! loops at ! l[] ends ( ! ord9>y hooks1 z %[n at ,c 7,fig4 #aah74 ,^! b>s are kept 9 _! places by a grid ,d1 :i* is betwe5 ! ord9>y hooks & ! twill+ hooks4 ,ea* ( ! ne$les ( ! jacqu>d is connect$ ) two or m ( ! ord9>y hooks1 z %[n at ,a4 ,! twill+ hooks h also ne$les on !m1 b !y are only = ! purpose ( keep+ !m 9 _! places1 & are n act$ ^u by ! c>ds4 ,! spr+s ( ^! ne$les are on ! ends next ! c>ds1 or at ! back ( ! faceplate or ne$le1 z %[n at ,e4 ,! c5tre support = ! knives ( ! griffe is %[n at ,f1 ) an end view ( two knives ,g ,g4 ,! ends ( ! knives ent] ! griffe frame at ea* side1 s z to all[ !m to oscillate or p>tly revolve4 ,?is motion is giv5 to !m by a set ( b>s or flat ne$les1 z %[n at ,a 7,fig4 #aai74 ,a s+le ne$le is giv5 at ,a#a4 ,^! ne$les h ea* ! not* 9 !m ov] ! top edge ( two or m ( ! knives1 & are act$ ^u by a b>rel ,c ) /uds 9 x1 set to ! twill4 ,?is b>rel rises & falls ) ! griffe1 & is turn$ f "o r[ ( pegs or /uds to ! next "o ea* "t ! griffe falls by ! head or lant]n on x com+ d[n on a f+]1 z %[n at ,a 7,fig #abj74 ,b 9 ! same figure is a /rong spr+ to keep ! b>rel /eady & make x turn ! correct di/ance4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aag ,! numb] ( knives 9 ! griffe mu/ be regulat$ to suit ! twill to be put on ! clo?2 !y mu/ be a multiple ( ! twill1 & ?is to "s ext5t regulates ! numb] ( ne$les t mu/ be 9 ea* upright r[4 ,= example1 an #h-leaf twill may h #af or #bd knives1 :i* w\ld be twice or ?ree times ov] ! twill4 ,if !re are #h r[s ( ne$les to #af knives1 or #af r[s ( hooks1 t w\ld be #b hooks to ea* ne$le1 or if !re are #bd r[s ( hooks !re mu/ be #c hooks to ! ne$le2 b if only #b hooks to ! ne$le are requir$1 !re mu/ be #ab r[s ( ne$les to #bd r[s ( hooks4 ,! same pr9ciple holds good = a #e-leaf1 or any twill4 ,eight or #ab r[s ( ne$les w\ld n be suitable = a #e-leaf twill1 nei!r w\ld #aj r[s ( ne$les be suitable = an #h-leaf twill1 if ! same numb] ( hooks h to be connect$ ) ea* ne$le2 b #aj r[s ( ne$les ) #bj r[s ( hooks or #bj knives w answ] = a #e-leaf twill ) #b hooks to ! ne$le1 or w\ld answ] = an #h-leaf twill ) #bd r[s ( hooks1 #d ( ! ne$les to h #c hooks to ea*1 & #f ( !m to h #b hooks to ea*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aah ,ea* ( ! twill+ ne$les1 ,a1 ,fig4 #aai1 mu/ be connect$ ) z _m ( ! knives z !re are repeats ( ! twill2 ?us1 = #bd ) an #h-leaf twill1 ! #a/1 #i?1 & #ag? knives w\ld be act$ ^u by ! "o ne$le1 & s on ) ! o!rs4 ,n[ z to ! action ( ! ma*9e4 ,:5 ! patt]n c>d presses ^u ! ne$les ! griffe beg9s to rise1 & :5 ris+ x mu/ lift all ! hooks requir$ = ! patt]n except #a_/h? "p ( !m :i* mu/ be left d[n 79 an #h-leaf twill7 to =m ! b9d+ or texture ( ! clo?4 ,9 addition to ?is1 #a_/h? "p ( ! gr\nd w>p mu/ be rais$ = ! weft to pass "u x & =m ! gr\nd texture4 ,?is is all accompli%$ by ! "o ris+ ( ! griffe4 ,:5 ! griffe is d[n1 "o ( ! twill+ ne$les1 ,a1 ,fig4 #aai1 is press$ back by a peg or /ud 9 ! b>rel1 :i* causes ! knives connect$ ) ?is ne$le to turn out ( ! way ( ! heads ( ! hooks1 s t :5 ! griffe is ris+ ^! knives w pass cle> ( !m1 leav+ e eigh? r[ ( hooks d[n to =m ! b9d+ ( ! rais$ or patt]n w>p4 ,9 ! ,scot* ma*9es ! knives slide back in/ead ( revolv+4 ,z %[n at ,h1 ,fig4 #aah1 !re are project+ pieces ( brass fa/5$ on ! knives betwe5 ! twill+ hooks4 ,^! hooks /& cle> ( ! knives1 b :5 ! latt] revolve ! projections on !m pu% ! hooks =w>d to ! next knife1 :i* lifts !m :5 ! griffe is ris+4 ,! hooks draw up ! b>s to :i* _! l[] ends are loop$1 & raise ! r[s ( ord9>y hooks ?r\gh :i* ! b>s pass1 ?us =m+ ! twill on ! gr\nd 9 ! same way1 b 9 ! rev]se direction1 t ! knives pass+ cle> ( ! adjo9+ r[s ( hooks =m ! twill on ! figure4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aai ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #abj ,! work+ ( ! texture requires ! griffe to fall = e %ot1 :i* w\ld be o!rwise unnecess>y1 & ! c>d mu/ come 9 aga9/ ! ne$les ea* "t to pu% (f ! hooks t are n to be rais$4 ,?is causes we> & te>1 :i* _c be avoid$ ) ?is ma*9e1 b !y "w v well1 ?\gh !y are n by any means p]fect4 ,!re is a good deal ( friction on ! ne$les1 :i* causes !m to we> quickly2 b be+ s mu* easi] on ! w>p ?an ! pressure h>ness1 & m easily manag$1 !y are ext5sively us$ = l>ge patt]ns 9 ! f9e l95 damask trade4 ,!y w n make s firm a clo? z ! pressure h>ness1 & h ! objection t all twills =m$ ) ! h>ness h :5 !re is a ga!r$ tie--viz4 t a portion ( ! clo? w h ! twill runn+ 9 "o direction & a portion 9 ! rev]se direction4 ,l all s+le-act+ jacqu>ds1 ^! ma*9es h no c\nt]poise 9 !mselves1 & be+ v heavy require "o add$ to assi/ ! loom to raise !m4 ,sometimes ?is is accompli%$ by means ( a c>riage spr+ plac$ on a beam or on ! top rail ( ! loom frame2 & an arm f ! %aft1 :i* raises ! griffe re/+ on ! spr+1 w =m a suffici5t c\nt]poise1 ! spr+ be+ made z /rong z is requir$ = ! purpose4 ,unless ! spr+s1 :i* are made simil> to ^? us$ = c>riages1 are nicely temp]$1 & ! diff]5t pieces made s z to slide freely on ea* o!r1 !y are liable to snap :5 ! loom is runn+ quickly4 ,! griffe is g5]ally driv5 f ! fly-:eel on ! crank%aft 9 ! same mann] z = ord9>y s+le-act+ jacqu>ds4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 a bett] plan to drive x f a crank on a /ud :eel ge>+ into ! tappet-%aft :eel4 ,?is does away ) ! necessity = a c\nt]poise unless ! ma*9]y is v heavy1 9 :i* case a few /rong spiral spr+s w suffice4 ,! horizontal %aft = rais+ ! griffe1 or griffes if two or m ma*9es are us$1 mu/ be v /rong1 s z n to twi/ ) ! tortu\s /ra91 :i* is v great4 ,?ree ( ^! ma*9es1 ) #ejj or #fjj ne$les to ea*1 are requir$ = tableclo? m\nt+s :5 ti$ up = c5tr$ patt]ns--"o ma*9e to "w ! bord]1 "o ! c5tre1 & "o ! portion betwe5 ! bord] & ! c5tre2 or two ma*9es to "w ! d\ble portion1 & "o ! s+le portion4 ,fig4 #aba gives a view ( a m\nt+ ti$ up 9 ?is way1 ,nos4 #a & #b ma*9es be+ d\ble m\nt+ & ,no4 #c s+le4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aba ,! ,k>l ,we9 ,jacqu>d4--,?is ma*9e is a twill+ jacqu>d on ! same pr9ciple z t la/ describ$1 b p]=ms its "w 9 a m sci5tific mann]4 ,x 0 pat5t$ by ,messrs4 ,j4 ,ts*rn] & ,k4 ,we91 ,kesm>k1 ,hung>y1 & 0 fir/ introduc$ into ?is c\ntry at ! ,glasg[ ,exhibition ( #ahhh4 ,! foll[+ is a description ( ! ma*9e exhibit$ !re3 ,! pr9cipal feature ( ?is ma*9e is p]haps t ea* knife acts indep5d5tly 9 a grid1 & is wr\ght by a tappet at ! side ( ! loom1 s t any r[ ( hooks c be rais$ or l[]$ at pleasure1 & ?is )\t any *ange ( c>d4 ,fig4 #abb gives an end view ( ! fram+1 %[+ ! upp] & l[] grids 9 :i* ! knives or lift]s slide4 ,an end view ( f\r ( ! lift]s is giv5 at ,a1 #a & #c belong+ to ! top set1 :i* "w 9 ! upp] grid1 & #b & #d to ! bottom set1 :i* "w 9 ! l[] grid4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #abb ,a p]spective view ( eight ( ^! lift]s is giv5 at ,b ,c1 ,fig4 #abc1 ) upright slide b>s ,d atta*$ to !m1 :i* slide 9 ! rack or frame ,e4 ,^! b>s are = ! purpose ( mak+ ! lift]s rise /eadily & horizontally1 z 7:i* may be se57 !y are n all lift$ at _! c5tre4 ,only "o connection is fair 9 ! c5tre1 :i* w\ld no d\bt be an objection ) a heavy h>ness to lift2 b ?is arrangem5t is made to suit = ! ma*9e sitt+ across ! loom1 = a ,london tie1 & "s me?od ( mak+ v]tical connections f ! lev]s to ! lift]s is necess>y4 ,! above does v well = a n>r[ h>ness if light4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #abc ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #abd ,if ! ma*9e 0 fix$ on ! loom = a ,norwi* tie1 or ) ! c>ds to hang ov] ! back1 !n ! connections f ! lev]s might all be at ! c5tres ( ! lift]s & ! b>s ,d w\ld only be requir$ to /eady !m4 ,! lev]s = rais+ ! lift]s are %[n at ,f1 ) _! fulcrum at ,i4 ,g is a spr+1 "o ( :i* is atta*$ to ea* lev] to keep x d[n1 z ! tappet has n a positive ris+ & s9k+ motion1 only rais+ ! lev]s & all[+ _! own weight & ! draw ( ! spr+s to recov] !m4 ,"o ( ! connect+ rods f ! lev] to ! tappet is %[n at ,i4 ,fig4 #abd gives ! pr9ciple ( ?is tappet4 ,a is ! lev] or treadle ) its fulcrum at ,a2 ! connect+ rod ,b connects ! po9t ( x to "o ( ! top lev]s ,f 7,fig4 #abc71 & ,c is a b[l at ! o!r end ( x :i* travels on ! tappet plate ,d4 ,! tappet is made up ( #ag plates /ruck to suit2 #af ( ^! are = work+ ! lift]s & #a = ! cyl9d]2 x sits at ! side ( ! loom l a ,woodcr(t tappet4 ,= an #h-;end sat9 twill #af lev]s are requir$1 #h = ! bottom set ( lift]s & #h = ! top set4 ,fig4 #abc;,a %[s two lift]s ,b#a & ,c#a ) hooks & ne$les4 ,a hook & a ne$le on a l>g] scale are %[n 9 ,fig4 #abe4 ,! hooks are flat pieces ( iron cut to ! %ape %[n1 ) small project+ pieces1 z a1 rivet$ to !m1 by :i* !y c re/ on ! bottom lift+ knives1 z at ,c#a 7,fig4 #abc;,a71 s t :5 any ( ^! knives are lift$ a r[ ( hooks w be rais$ by !m4 ,z be=e expla9$ 9 ref]5ce to ! ,bessbrook ma*9e1 x is necess>y :5 ! patt]n c>d presses on ! ne$les = all ! knives except "o to act1 & also = "o ( ! bottom lift]s to rise to =m ! texture ( ! clo?2 ! same mu/ be 9 ?is ma*9e1 & c easily be regulat$ by ! tappet1 :i* %\ld hold up ! w>p requir$ = ! patt]n & "w ! gr\nd texture z well4 ,?is is done 9 ! foll[+ mann]3 ,suppose !re are #af lift]s1 #h top & #h bottom ones4 ,:5 ! c>d presses on ! ne$les1 #g ( ! top & #a ( ! bottom lift]s %\ld be rais$ by ! tappet1 & ! top lift]1 :i* is left d[n1 %\ld be rais$ s f> z to cat* ! heads ( ^? hooks 9 ! r[ belong+ to x t are n pu%$ back by ! c>d4 ,= ! next %ot ?is lift] is rais$ & ano!r "o let d[n1 b x is n let d[n f> en\gh = ! hooks to get (f x1 /opp+ at ! same height t ! fir/ "o 0 rais$ to1 :i* is easily regulat$ by ! tappet4 ,if !re are #c %ots to ! c>d1 ano!r simil> *ange takes place2 !n = ! f\r? %ot all ! lift]s are dropp$1 ! cyl9d] presses 91 & all b "o ( ! top lift]s & "o ( ! l[] ones are aga9 rais$1 & ! twill proce$$ ) z be=e4 ,x w ?us be se5 t ! %$d+ = ! twill acts z 9 a d\ble-act+ jacqu>d1 b ! lift at ! *ange ( c>d is simil> to t ( a s+le-act+ jacqu>d4 ,( c\rse ! tappet mu/ be /ruck to *ange ! lift]s accord+ to ! twill requir$ on ! clo?4 ,9 ! ,bessbrook ma*9e !re c\ld be #af1 #bd1 or #cb r[s ( hooks to #h r[s ( ne$les by hav+ #b1 #c1 or #d hooks to ea* ne$le1 or ! numb] ( hooks to ea* ne$le might v>y & any numb] ( ne$les might be us$4 ,!re mu/ be a knife = ea* r[ ( hooks1 b all ! knives belong to ! "o griffe4 ,9 ! ,k>l ,we9 ma*9e !re mu/ be #b lift]s = ea* r[ ( hooks1 & #af ( !m are en\gh to h = conv5i5ce4 ,9 ! ma*9e exhibit$1 #af hooks1 or #b r[s ( #h1 7 atta*$ to #f ne$les1 #d ne$les hav+ #c hooks to ea* & #b ne$les #b hooks to ea*1 z %[n at ,b 7,fig4 #abe71 ! ?ick v]tical l9es repres5t+ #a r[ ( hooks1 & ! ?9 l9es ! next r[4 ,!re 7 #f r[s ( ne$les 9 ! ne$le bo>d1 & ! po9t ( ea* ne$le 0 crank$ z %[n at ,c2 ea* r[ ( holes = ! ne$les 9 ! ne$le bo>d1 or face-plate1 /ood betwe5 #b r[s ( hooks3 ! fir/ #c ne$les 7 connect$ ) #a r[ ( hooks & ! second #c ) ! next r[1 ! cranks ( ! fir/ & second set ( ne$les be+ turn$ 9 ! opposite direction s z to enable !m to fall 9 ) ! r[s ( hooks4 ,( c\rse !re might z well h be5 #h r[s ( ne$les ) #b hooks to ea*1 or #d ne$les to ea* r[ ( hooks4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #abe ,if necess>y to use m ?an "o ma*9e1 "s arrangem5t w\ld require to be made = lift+ !m4 ,x might be done by us+ a d\ble set ( lev]s ) connect+ rods simil> to ^? us$ = twill+ looms4 ,! twill+ ( ! gr\nd might be wr\ght by a griffe & hooks z 9 ! ,bessbrook ma*9e1 ?us do+ away ) sev5 treadles & sev5 tappet plates1 b ?is w\ld make ! twill+ a s+le-act+ %$d+ motion4 ,s9ce ?is 0 writt5 ! ma*9e has be5 alt]$ s z to make x m suitable to ! requirem5ts ( ! "w 9 ?is c\ntry1 b does n appe> to ga9 fav\r1 & ?is class ( weav+ is n v ext5sively us$4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,gauze ,! pr9ciple ( weav+ gauze ) %afts & healds applies equally to mak+ x ) a h>ness1 ?\gh p]haps ! latt] is simpl]1 z !re is n ! same tr\ble 9 ! arrang+ ( drafts2 &1 9 intricate "w1 ! numb] ( d\p leaves requir$ = %aft m\nt+s adds consid]ably to ! tr\ble ( ! weav] & tackl]4 ,! simple/1 or 9 any case ! mo/ ready1 me?od ( weav+ gauze 9 a h>ness1 is to use an ord9>y h>ness1 & =m ! gauze by means ( "o or m d\ps & /&>ds 9 front ( x4 ,suppose we h h a #djj ma*9e ) ! h>ness ti$ up 9 simple repeats ( #djj2 any desir$ patt]n c be put ^u ! clo? to ! ext5t ( #djj hooks ( ! jacqu>d z 9 ord9>y h>ness "w1 b x _c be made ( any texture desir$--x mu/ be made to suit ! work+ ( ! d\ps 9 front ( ! h>ness4 ,if ! op5 "w is to be a pla9 gauze ) "o %ot into ea* %$1 !n ! patt]n mu/ be pla9 clo?1 z ! d\p /&>d mu/ be rais$ & sunk alt]nately = ea* %ot2 b any desir$ =m or figure c be made 9 pla9 texture on ! #djj hooks1 & ! clo? w consi/ ( a pla9 figure on a gauze gr\nd2 or x might z well be a gauze figure on a pla9 gr\nd4 ,^? n acqua9t$ ) figur$ gauze "w1 h consid]able difficulty 9 und]/&+ h[ to make pla9 or gauze z requir$ on ! clo?4 ,x is easy to und]/& t work+ ! h>ness )\t ! d\ps c make pla9 clo?1 & also t work+ ! d\ps & /&>ds1 & portion ( ! h>ness1 = alt]nate %ots1 c make gauze2 b ! difficulty is to ?or\ghly compreh5d h[1 :5 work+ gauze1 to neutralise ! cross+ ( t portion ( ! w>p t is to =m ! pla9 figure4 ,!re are two ways ( neutralis+ ! cross+ effect ( ! d\ps on any ?read or numb] ( ?reads t may be requir$ = ! figure3 fir/1 by n rais+ ! mail or mails c>ry+ ! cross+ ?reads1 or ?reads 9 ! d\ps1 b =m+ ! pla9 by rais+ ! mails c>ry+ ! ?reads n 9 ! d\ps1 alt]nately ) ! d\p /&>d2 &1 secondly1 if ! ?reads n 9 ! d\ps are rais$ along ) ! d\p /&>d1 no cross+ c take place2 b ?is w\ld n suit = work+ pla9 clo?1 z ^! mails mu/ be d[n :5 ! d\p /&>d is up 9 ord] to =m pla9 clo?4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #abf ,if a diff]5t gauze is requir$1 say "o ) #b %ots into ea* %$1 or betwe5 ! cross+s1 !n ! solid texture might be a rib or mat2 or if x suit$ ! patt]n1 z 9 ! case ( dice "w1 two d\ps c\ld be employ$1 s t "o c\ld re/ :5 ! o!r is work+ ! gauze4 ,fig4 #abf is a pla9 gauze & pla9 texture1 common dice patt]n1 :i* c\ld be wr\ght ) %afts1 b %[s ! pr9ciple ( work+ ) ! h>ness z well4 ,?is c\ld be wr\ght ) "o d\p 9 front ( ! h>ness4 ,to "w ! dice ,a ! mails c>ry+ ! ?reads n 9 ! d\ps w\ld be rais$ alt]nately ) ! d\p /&>d1 & ?us =m pla9 clo?2 & at ! same "t1 to make ! dice ,b a gauze1 ! mails c>ry+ ! ?reads 9 ! d\ps w\ld be wr\ght alt]nately ) ! d\p /&>d4 ,= ! dices ,c & ,d1 ?is w\ld be rev]s$4 ,9 case ( ! gauze hav+ to be made )1 say1 #c %ots into ea* %$1 & #b ?reads twi/+ r\nd #b to give op5ness ( texture1 x w be se5 t x c\ld only be wr\ght ) "o d\p1 provid$ #c %ots w5t to ea* %$ ( ! solid dice1 z ! d\p w\ld require to be up = #c %ots 9 succession1 & d[n = ! same4 ,if pla9 clo? 7 requir$ x w\ld be necess>y to h a d\p & /&>d = ea* dice1 s t "o c\ld rema9 d[n :5 ! o!r is rais$ = gauz+2 ?is w\ld all[ ! h>ness to "w any texture on ! solid dice1 ! d\p ( :i* is n gauz+4 ,if x 7 requir$ to "w a diagonal /ripe ( pla9 & gauze1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #abg1 ) #b weft %ots com+ 9 betwe5 ea* cross+ ( ! gauze1 #f d\ps w\ld be requir$ 9 front ( ! h>ness1 :]eas if only "o %ot came betwe5 ! cross+s only "o d\p w\ld be requir$4 ,x w be se5 t !re are #f splitfuls ( w>p to "o repeat ( ! patt]n1 & t ! *ange f ! pla9 to ! gauze is at a diff]5t "t = ea*2 !re=e1 on acc\nt ( ! d\p /&>ds hav+ to be rais$ = #b %ots 9 succession :5 a portion ( ! clo? is pla9 texture1 x is necess>y = ea* splitful ( w>p to h its own d\p s t x c be cross$ )\t int]f]+ ) ! pla9 texture 9 ! o!r portion ( ! clo?4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #abg ,?is patt]n w\ld be bett] suit$ = a %aft m\nt+ ?an = a h>ness ) d\ps 9 front1 b c\ld be wr\ght ) a gauze h>ness m easily ?an ) ei!r4 ,! advantage ( us+ a h>ness ) d\ps 9 front1 9 ?is case1 ov] a %aft m\nt+1 w\ld be t ! pla9 /ripe c\ld be figur$ if desir$1 & ! gauze /ripe might g 9 /eps ( two or ?ree splitfuls alike1 :i* w\ld give mu* bold] /ripes4 ,:5 m ?an "o or two sets ( d\ps w\ld be requir$ to be us$ 9 front ( a h>ness1 x is advisable to adopt a true gauze h>ness1 z ! d\p %afts come 9 ! way ( ! weav]4 ,a gauze h>ness has ! d\ps 9 ! h>ness1 s t !y c be lift$ indep5d5tly1 :i* admits ( indiscrim9ate figur+ on ei!r ! gauze or solid portion ( ! clo?4 ,:5 us+ d\ps 9 front ( ! h>ness x is n necess>y t ! pla9 or solid clo? %\ld be all a pla9 or unfigur$ texture2 any suitable w>p figure may be =m$ on ! pla9 by ! h>ness1 b weft figures _c be made on ! upp] side ( ! clo?1 because1 ?\gh ! h>ness c be rais$ = any numb] ( %ots 9 succession to =m a figure by ! w>p1 hav+ x sunk w\ld n 9 ! same way =m a weft figure1 z 9 cross+ ! gauze a portion ( ! y>n w\ld be rais$ by ! d\p /&>d1 :i* _c be prev5t$1 unless by hav+ m d\ps ?an "o4 ,a h>ness ) d\ps 9 front is bett] suit$ = work+ /ripes ?an any o!r class ( "w1 & x is 9 ?is class ( "w t gauze c be made mo/ effective4 ,:5 figur+ ) gauze1 unless sev]al %ots are ?r[n into ea* %$1 or betwe5 ! cross+s ( ! gauze ?reads1 & #c or m w>p ?reads are twi/$ toge!r1 ! op5ness ( ! texture is n suffici5t to make a good contra/ betwe5 ! pla9 & gauze unless ! fabric is v light2 & ev5 ) #b ?reads r\nd #b1 & ?r[+ #d to #f %ots into ea* twi/1 ! contra/ is n s great z might be desir$ :5 ! clo? is heavy4 ,a portion ( ! weft1 say e second or ?ird %ot1 might be made to pass ei!r ov] or "u ! gauz$ texture & int]wov5 only ) ! solid portion ( ! clo?1 ! flu%$ or loose weft to be cropp$ (f aft]w>ds4 ,9 /ripes1 n only c ?is be done1 b ! w>p may be set mu* ?9n] or wid] 9 ! re$ = ! gauze3 say e second or ?ird split may be left empty2 or x may be ( a diff]5t description ( y>n--a fancy twi/ if desir$1 or 9 ?reads ( diff]5t col\rs4 ,a fancy /ripe ) ?ree ?reads to ! split 9 a re$1 set #cj splits p] in*1 & e second split ( ! gauze portion left empty1 makes a v effective patt]n = f9e "w1 ) say #hj picks p] in*2 or #abj picks might be us$1 & e ?ird or f\r? "o n wr\ght into ! gauze1 b flu%$ ov] to be cut (f aft]w>ds4 ,!re might be #b ?ick ?reads or #d f9] ones to ea* split ( ! gauze1 & #d to #f %ots into ea* cross+1 ?is1 ( c\rse1 to be regulat$ to suit circum/ances & ta/e2 "o ?+ mu/1 h[ev]1 be rememb]$--viz4 t :5 made too bold or op5 ! w>p ribs are liable to slide on ! weft1 & ?is is ! *ief defect 9 gauze :5 made op51 especially :5 a smoo?1 clean y>n1 z l951 is us$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #abh ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #abi ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #acj ,:5 work+ /ripes1 any patt]n1 or any texture or /yle ( clo?1 :e!r s+le1 d\ble1 or pile "w1 may be us$ = ! solid /ripes1 or ! :ole clo? may consi/ ( /ripes made ( comb9ations ( gauze & solid textures4 ,"o set ( /ripes may be wr\ght q indep5d5tly ( ! o!r by hav+ ! y>n on sep>ate beams1 & :5 only "o set ( /ripes is gauz$1 ! o!rs are n drawn into ! d\p h$dles1 s are q indep5d5t ( !m4 ,! d\p h$dles may be spac$ or o!rwise z desir$4 ,:5 work+ ) d\ps 9 front ( ! h>ness1 !re mu/ be a slack5] = ! cross+ ?reads = ea* d\p /&>d1 same z = h$dle "w4 ,figs4 #abh1 #abi1 & #acj %[ "s ( ! me?ods ( slack5+ 9 use4 ,9 ,figs4 #abh & #abi1 ,a is ! y>n beam1 ,b ! back rail1 ,c & ,d ! vibrat+ b>s or slack5]s1 ,c acts z a fulcrum2 & 9 ,fig4 #abh ! b> ,d presses ! cross+ y>n d[n & is rais$ by ! tappet ,e1 :i* may be ei!r above or bel[ a lev] on ! end ( ! b> ,c1 a spr+ on ! lev] regulat+ x1 to hold x aga9/ ! tappet4 ,9 ,fig4 #abi ! b> ,d is sunk to relieve ! cross+ y>n1 by draw+ up ! cord ,g1 :i* is atta*$ to ! jacqu>d or dobby1 ! spr+ ,h hold+ ! lev] ,e d[n :5 x is reliev$4 ,fig4 #acj is simil> to ,fig4 #abi1 b = two d\ps2 x is %[n bo? 9 p]spective & 9 end view1 & w be cle>ly und]/ood4 ,c & ,d mu/ be set at su* a di/ance above ea* o!r z w p]mit ( ! trav]se ( ,d )\t ,c be+ mov$4 ,two or m %afts ( h$dles might also be us$ :i* c\ld hold ! cross+ y>n ei!r up or d[n1 same z ! b>s1 till !y are act$ on by ! jacqu>d or by a tappet4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aca ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #acb ,design+4--,:5 design+ a patt]n = gauze1 ) d\ps 9 front ( ! h>ness1 x is only necess>y to set (f a few hooks ( ! jacqu>d to "w ! d\ps & slack5]1 & design ! fancy portion on ! rema9+ hooks2 or if ! gauze & slack5] are wr\ght ) tappets ! full jacqu>d w be available = ! figur$ portion1 ! same z if no gauze 7 be+ made4 ,if ! d\ps & slack5] are to be wr\ght by ! jacqu>d ! patt]n c be pa9t$ on ! rema9+ hooks1 & ! dots = work+ ^! c be add$ aft]w>ds1 agreeably to ! texture ( ! gauze requir$4 ,! d\p /&>d & slack5] %\ld act toge!r1 & ! d\p or half leaf %\ld rise :5 ! h>ness c>ry+ ! cross+ ?reads rises4 ,if ! d\p /&>d is to be rais$ e second %ot1 z is requir$ :5 pla9 clo? has to be wr\ght ) "o d\p1 x might be wr\ght by a tappet1 & ! d\p or loose heald might be rais$ by ! ma*9e = e %ot1 z x mu/ rise ) its /&>d z well z :5 ! h>ness raises any ( ! y>n drawn into ! d\p4 ,! d\p %aft is be/ held d[n by a light spr+4 ,indi>ubb] ab\t #c_/af or #a_/d 94 9 diamet] suits v well4 ,"o spr+ at ea* side ( ei!r "o or two ply ( ?is %\ld be suffici5t4 ,if ! numb] ( r[s 9 ! h>ness is su* t x w correspond ) ! numb] ( ?reads to be twi/$ toge!r1 or be a multiple ( !m1 x w be all ! m conv5i5t1 ?\gh x is n necess>y = x to be s4 ,= in/ance1 if #a ?read is twi/$ r\nd #a1 #b1 an #h-r[ h>ness w\ld give #d repeats ( ?is 9 ea* r[2 b if #a ?read 7 twi/$ r\nd #b1 #c1 !n #a r[ ( ! h>ness w\ld give #b repeats1 or hold #b splitfuls ( w>p & #b ?reads ov]1 s t ano!r ?read w\ld h to be tak5 f ! back ( ! next r[4 ,= ?is a #f-r[ h>ness w\ld be m conv5i5t1 :i* c\ld be got by leav+ #b r[s ( ! ma*9e idle1 & design+ ! patt]n on #f-r[ pap]1 or rul+ #h-r[ pap] to #f-r[ aft] ! design is pa9t$4 ,to "w fancy textures ) gauze by means ( a h>ness ) d\ps 9 front1 bo? mu/ be arrang$ to suit ea* o!r1 unless a l>ge numb] ( d\ps be employ$4 ,= in/ance1 a #b-;&-#b twill c\ld be wr\ght ) #a d\p leaf 9 front ( ! h>ness by mak+ #a ?read ( ! gauze twi/ r\nd #c1 & ?r[+ #b %ots into ea* cross+1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #aca4 ,if #a ?read 7 to be twi/$ r\nd #a ) a #b-;&-#b twill1 & #b %ots to ! gauze cross+1 #b d\p leaves w\ld be requir$1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #acb4 ,a #d-?read fancy twill c be wr\ght ) #a d\p1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #acc1 #a ?read twi/+ r\nd #c & #d %ots into ea* cross+ ( ! gauze4 ,sat9s or regul> twills are m difficult to "w1 unless by mak+ an irregul> gauze4 ,take a #e-;end sat91 :i* has ! ?reads ov] #d & "u #a4 ,! gauze might h #d %ots & #a %ot into ea* cross+ alt]nately1 & be easily wr\ght ) #a d\p2 b if #b or #c %ots _h to g to ea* cross+ x w\ld be diff]5t1 z ! d\p w\ld require to s9k = #a %ot out ( #e1 9 ord] to let ! ?reads drawn into x b9d 9 ! twill$ portion ( ! clo?1 or o!rwise ! b9d+ w\ld h to take place on ^! ?reads :5 ! d\p is d[n1 :i* x c\ld d if x suit$ o!rwise4 ,b x mu/ be rememb]$ t :5 solid clo? & gauze are work+ toge!r1 ! =m] is made by rais+ ! d\p /&>d & ^? mails :i* c>ry ! ?reads t are n drawn into ! d\p1 leav+ /ation>y ! mails c>ry+ ! cross+ ?reads1 except :]e gauze is be+ made2 !re=e1 9 work+ a #e-;end sat91 if ! d\p held up any ( ! ?reads =1 say1 #c %ots1 & !n sank = #c1 !re w\ld be no way ( hold+ up ^! ?reads 9 ! twill portion to make !m pass ov] #d %ots1 z a #e-;end sat9 mu/ d1 = if ! h>ness tw9es c>ry+ ^! ?reads are rais$1 !y w cause a cross to be made in/ead ( complet+ ! twill4 ,patt]ns ( ?is description %\ld all be wr\ght 9 a gauze h>ness4 ,9 ! figures giv5 ! gauze cross+s are repres5t$ by dott$ l9es :]e !y are rais$ by ! h>ness1 = sake ( di/9ction4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #acc ,,h&-,,loom ,,gauze ,,h>ness4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #acd ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #acd;,a ,a l>ge quantity ( goods are /ill be+ made 9 ! h& loom on ! gauze pr9ciple4 ,^! are mo/ly = curta9s kn[n z ,cretes or ,madras musl9s1 & = antimacass>s or *air backs4 ,!y are *iefly wov5 9 & ab\t ,glasg[1 & 9 ,newt[n>ds 9 ! ,nor? ( ,irel&4 ,^! goods are made on ! half-h>ness pr9ciple--t is1 half ! w>p is drawn into ! h>ness & ! o!r half passes ?r\gh ! h>ness & is drawn into a set ( h$dles 9 front4 ,?is m\nt+ is %[n 9 ,fig4 #acd4 ,x w be se5 t e alt]nate ?read is drawn into "o ( ! h>ness mails & all ! ?reads are drawn ?r\gh a pair ( clasp$ leaves ( h$dles ,a ,b2 ^? t are drawn into ! mails are drawn ?r\gh ! "u clasp ( ! leaf ,a1 & ^? t are n 9 ! mails ?r\gh ! upp] clasp ( ! leaf ,b4 ,! ?reads are next drawn ?r\gh ! d\ps z %[n1 ^? 9 ! mails be+ 9 ! back set1 or upp] d\ps4 ,^! d\ps are made diff]5t f ^? g5]ally us$1 ! d\p or half-heald be+ connect$ ) two /&>ds2 ?is is = ! purpose ( ?r[+ less /ra9 on ! y>n4 ,:5 ! h>ness is drawn ! %aft ,a is also rais$1 ,b be+ sunk1 z well z ! front set ( d\ps4 ,z ! y>n 9 ! h>ness is also drawn ?r\gh ! back set ( d\ps1 x foll[s t !y mu/ be reliev$ to all[ ! h>ness to raise ! y>n4 ,?is might be done1 & sometimes is done1 by s9k+ ! ord9>y d\p %aft & lett+ ! y>n draw ! d\p ?r\gh its /&>d2 b 9 ?is case ! /&>d ,c is rais$1 :i* all[s ! ?read to rise 9 ! d\p1 z %[n at ,fig4 #acd;,a1 )\t hav+ to draw x up1 & at ! same "t all ! d\ps are kept firm 9 _! places by ! /&>d ,d1 ?us prev5t+ any entanglem5t 9 a f9e set ( d\ps4 ,! di/ance betwe5 ! h>ness & back leaves is #d 941 & betwe5 ! back leaves & gauze m\nt+ #c 94 ,! clo? is a pla9 gauze1 & ! figure is =m$ by ?r[+ "o or m %ots ( rove weft1 ei!r :ite or col\r$1 into ! %$ =m$ by ! h>ness flu%+ ov] ! gr\nd & clipp$ (f aft]w>ds4 ,to =m ! figure %$1 draw ! h>ness1 raise ! leaf ,a & ! /&>d ,c1 & s9k ! o!r leaves1 mak+ a ris+ & fall+ %$1 or c5tre %$d+4 ,to =m ! gauze1 = ! op5 %$ raise ,b ,c ,d & ,f1 & to =m ! cross %$ raise ,e & ,f1 9 bo? cases s9k+ ! o!rs4 ,= ^! %$s f9e or gr\nd weft is ?r[n 91 ! fl[]+ %ots com+ betwe5 !m4 ,! %afts ,a & ,b are = ! purpose ( keep+ a cle> %$1 b might be done )\t4 ,^! goods are n[ l>gely made by p[] looms1 pr9cipally ) gauze re$s1 :i* see4 ,,gauze ,,h>ness ,9 a true gauze h>ness ! d\ps are connect$ ) ! mails or lea%es ( ! h>ness1 ! h>ness tw9es1 or lea%es1 act+ z /&>ds = ! d\ps1 s t any splitful ( w>p may be cross$ or twi/$ diff]5tly f ! o!rs1 & any k9d ( texture c be wr\ght along ) ! gauze )\t hav+ to consid] ! "o 9 connection ) ! o!r1 z 9 ! previ\s h>ness4 ,figs4 #ace & #acf %[ h[ ^! h>nesses are ti$ up2 ! lett]s ref] to ! same p>ts 9 bo? figures4 ,! h>ness is %[n ) f\r cords 9 ! r[1 = ! back h>ness & ! d\p mail 9 front1 & ?is c\ld be repeat$ twice = an eight-r[ h>ness4 ,x is bett] to h ! r[s ( ! h>ness regulat$ 9 ?is way to suit ! gauze to be made1 & h ! d\p lea%es 9 "o or two r[s at ! front1 b x is n necess>y = x to be s1 z ! d\ps c\ld come on any ( ! mails ?r\gh ! h>ness1 if desir$1 9 case ( a h>ness be+ ti$ up1 & x be+ want$ to add ! d\p lea%es = gauz+2 b ?is is r confus+4 ,9 any case1 ?is me?od ( work+ is n[ sup]s$$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ace ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #acf ,a is ! d\p or dead lea%1 ,b ! d\p /&>d1 or :at answ]s to ! d\p /&>d 9 heald "w4 ,c & ,d are ! lea%es c>ry+ ! pla9 or ly+ ?reads1 & ,e ! lea% c>ry+ ! cross+ ?read1 ! cross+ 9 ?is case be+ "o ?read r\nd two4 ,f is ! d\p4 ,fig4 #acf %[s ! h>ness drawn = ! op5 %$1 & x w be obs]v$ t ! dead lea% ,a is connect$ ) ! back h>ness ,e1 s t :5 ?is lea% is rais$ to =m ! %$ x draws up ! dead lea%1 also reliev+ ! d\p4 ,!re 0 "o tr\ble ) ^! dead lea%es--namely1 t !y 7 liable to twi/ r\nd ! /&>ds :5 close to !m 9 ! cumb] bo>d1 sometimes be+ put ?r\gh ! same hole or ! next "o2 b by hav+ !m 9 front & a little di/ance (f ?is c\ld be avoid$4 ,wires or cords 7 sometimes /ret*$ across betwe5 ! l+oes to prev5t ! twi/+4 ,fig4 #ace %[s ! h>ness drawn = ! cross %$1 ! d\p /&>d be+ drawn up1 draw+ ! d\p up ) x4 ,! d\p 0 fa/5$ into ! mails z %[n at ,no4 #a1 ,fig4 #ace2 b a bett] plan is to h d\ble-ey$ mails1 & fa/5 ! d\p z at ,no4 #b4 ,?is =m ( h>ness is n[ sup]s$$ by "o hav+ all ! d\ps on a %aft 9 front ( ! h>ness1 :i* consi/s ( two p>ts--namely1 ! back h>ness & ! d\p+ h>ness 7:i* is ab\t #c_/d 94 to #a-a_/b 94 9 front ( ! =m]72 ! d\ps are connect$ ) ?is latt] h>ness1 & all ! d\ps may be on "o %aft1 :e!r = "o1 two1 or m r[s ( /&>ds 9 ! front h>ness4 ,! d\ps on ! %aft are kn[n z a #8slip heald' or #8slip4' ,?is is a mu* simpl] & m conv5i5t me?od ( work+ ?an ! prec$+4 ,fig4 #acg %[s a simple & effective gauze m\nt+ = a #djj jacqu>d1 ! cords be+ c>ri$ up to ! ma*9e 9 ! usual way4 ,a is ! brea/ beam ( ! loom1 ,b ! re$1 ,c ! back rail1 & ,n ! y>n beam4 ,d is ! slip heald1 or d\p1 :i* is simply a half-leaf ( ord9>y clasp$ h$dles1 made ( cotton or wor/$1 f9e or co>se1 z may be desir$ = ! quality ( "w to be wr\ght4 ,e is ! front or d\p m\nt+1 connect$ ) ! two front r[s ( ! ma*9e1 & pass+ ?r\gh a small cumb] bo>d 9 front ( t = ! body ( ! h>ness2 x is bolt$ s t x c be %ift$ to regulate ! di/ance betwe5 ! d\p h>ness & t ( ! figur+4 ,! di/ance betwe5 ! two h>nesses may range f #c_/d 94 to #a-a_/b 941 or :atev] is f\nd mo/ suitable to ease ! /ra9 on ! y>n & make a cle> %$4 ,g is ! cumb] bo>d1 & ,f ! body ( ! h>ness = work+ ! figure4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #acg ,! me?od ( slack5+ ! ?reads t are drawn into ! d\ps is p]haps ! pr9cipal feature ( ?is m\nt+4 ,:5 "o or m slack5+ b>s are us$ x is pla9 t all ! ?reads t pass ov] ! b> t is oscillat$ w be slack5$ at once1 ?\gh = figur$ "w x may be t only a v few ( ^! ?reads %\ld be slack5$1 & if ! rema9d] or any portion ( !m are rais$ by ! back lea%es !y %\ld be kept tight at ! back s z to enable !m to draw up ! slack d\ps4 ,x foll[s1 !re=e1 t = giv+ good "w & keep+ ! ?reads at a regul> t5sion1 e ?read 9 ! d\ps %\ld h its own indep5d5t slack5]4 ,x is n absolutely necess>y t ?is %\ld be s2 /rong twi/ cotton or wor/$ y>n w "w v well 9 a h>ness ) "o slack5+ b> vibrat+ = ea* %ot1 ?\gh x mu/ ?r[ an irregul> /ra9 on ! y>n1 & x requires to be tightly pac$4 ,9 ,fig4 #acg ! slack5+ arrangem5t consi/s ( a small back h>ness1 z %[n at ,i1 ?r\gh :i* all ! :ip ?reads are drawn2 ^! ?reads !n pass ov] "o lease rod & "u ! next "o1 z %[n1 & !n on to ! h>ness to be drawn 9 accord+ to ! draught ( ! gauze4 ,! h>ness consi/s ( small mails atta*$ to l+oes ) tw9es 9 ! same way z ! l[] portion ( ! ord9>y h>ness is prep>$1 b ! mails are r\nd$ (f above ! eye or c5tre hole )\t hav+ ! top hole = ?read+ ! upp] portion ( ! h>ness to4 ,! cumb] bo>d ( ?is h>ness mu/ be nicely set1 s t ! l+oes w hang on ! y>n )\t draw+ ! mails q close on ! cumb] bo>d1 :i* soon w\ld cut ! tw9es4 ,to regulate ?is ! cumb] bo>d & back rail mu/ be set 9 relation to ea* o!r & ! mails ( ! h>ness s z to produce ! desir$ effect4 ,a m$ium position = work+ may be tak5 z foll[s3--,cumb] bo>d #ab 94 beh9d h>ness & #f 94 9 front ( back rail4 ,back rail #b 94 above ! level ( ! mails 9 ! ma9 h>ness1 & cumb] bo>d ( small back h>ness #c 94 bel[ ! level ( ! mails1 or #e 94 l[] ?an ! top ( ! back rail4 ,! back lease rod might !n come 9 ab\t #h 94 beh9d ! h>ness4 ,! weight ( ! l+oes on ! back h>ness mu/ be regulat$ to suit ! /r5g? ( w>p to be wr\ght2 ab\t #cj to #dj p] lb4 =1 say1 f #dj_/b to #hj_/b cotton w\ld suit4 ,! mails = ! body ( ! h>ness may be #be's or #cj's1 or ! same z = ord9>y "w1 & ^? = ! d\p /&>ds heavi]1 say #ah's or #bj's4 ,9 addition to ?is h>ness = slack5+1 or r = keep+ a yield+ t5sion on ! :ip1 !re is a slack5+ b> support$ by a lev] ,k ,l ,m at bo? sides ( ! loom4 ,?is lev] has its fulcrum at ,l1 & is atta*$ to ! swords ( ! lay at ,m1 & !re=e vibrates at e beat up4 ,! slack5] acts z a positive motion1 & keeps ! ?reads f tight5+ up or be+ drawn =w>d by ! twi/+2 x acts on ! body ( ! ?reads1 & ! h>ness acts on !m individually4 ,?is1 :5 prop]ly set1 is an easy motion1 & produces a good firm gauze4 ,x is a ,brad=d pat5t4 ,n[1 9 ref]5ce to ! work+ ( ! gauze3 ,! h>ness is levell$ mu* 9 ! same way z = ord9>y "w1 ! mails be+ #a-a_/b 94 or #a-c_/d 94 bel[ ! level ( ! brea/ beam4 ,! d\p mails %\ld be a little l[] ?an ^? = ! h>ness1 say #c_/af 94 or #a_/d 94 ,! %$ %\ld be clos$1 & beg9 to op5 aga9 :5 ! re$ is at ! fell ( ! clo?4 ,too l>ge a %$ %\ld n be made ) ! d\ps1 on acc\nt ( ! /ra9 on ! y>n3 a small cle> %$ gives mu* m satisfactory "w4 ,! front cumb] bo>d1 conta9+ ! d\p lea%es1 may be %ift$ a little =w>d or back if ?\ght desirable1 s z to get ! cross %$ to spr+ z easily z possible1 ! am\nt ( ela/icity 9 ! w>p v>y+ ?is consid]ably4 ,! slip heald is rais$ = e %ot by cord+ x to ! br&] or griffe ( ! jacqu>d1 :i* = gauze "w is g5]ally a s+le-act+ "o4 ,spr+s are us$ = hold+ d[n ! slip--a light wire spr+1 or1 bett]1 a piece ( r\nd indi>ubb] ab\t #c_/af 94 9 diamet]1 d\bl$ if necess>y4 ,bridles %\ld be atta*$ f ! %aft ( ! slip heald at ea* end & fa/5$ to ! cumb] bo>d s z to be> ! draw ( ! spr+s :5 ! h>ness is d[n2 ! cords connect$ ) ! jacqu>d = rais+ ?is %aft may !n be left slack1 & ! size ( %$ may be regulat$ or made less ?an ! draw ( ! ma*9e1 if requir$4 ,x is v important to h ! d\ps nicely adju/$2 on ?is dep5ds _! la/+ capacity1 & sometimes a v %ort "t is suffici5t to cut !m to pieces if badly set4 ,b if correctly done !y w g5]ally la/ = a l5g? ( "t1 p>ticul>ly if occasionally turn$ on ! %aft1 :i* is m ess5tial 9 work+ ) a l95 ?an ) a cotton w>p4 ,"o ( ! d\p /&>d mails ) a d\p ?r\gh x is %[n at ,no4 #a 7,fig4 #ach71 :]e x may be se5 t ! d\p is simply drawn ?r\gh ! eye ( ! mail1 & n connect$ ) x 9 any way4 ,x is only held 9 ?is position by ! w>p ?read pass+ ?r\gh x1 & :5ev] ! ?read breaks ! d\p falls out ( ! mail4 ,?is is a tr\ble to ! weav]1 at lea/ till %e gets accu/om$ to x1 & mails1 z %[n at ,no4 #b1 h be5 made to hold up ! d\p4 ,! rem$y "h is (t5 worse ?an ! evil4 ,! mails we> ! d\ps1 p>ticul>ly if ! spr+s draw !m tight d[n on ! eyes ( ! mails2 & besides1 !y h ! disadvantage t ! slip heald has to be built 9 !m aft] ! h>ness is m\nt$1 :]eas ) ! op5 mails ! slips c be procur$ any:]e q indep5d5t ( ! h>ness4 ,! slip heald mu/ be set s t :5 ! h>ness is d[n ! y>n w n be drawn ?r\gh ! eyes ( ! mails by ! d\p s9k+ too l[4 ,?is may be gu>d$ aga9/ by adju/+ ! bridles at ea* side1 betwe5 ! slip %aft & ! cumb] bo>d4 ,! loops ( ! d\ps %\ld pass ab\t #a_/d 94 ?r\gh ! eyes ( ! mails :5 at ! l[e/ or bottom position1 & ! front mails be+ ab\t #a_/d 94 l[] ?an ! o!rs all[s ! loops ( ! d\ps to be j be>+ lightly on ! w>p1 all be+ held up /raight4 ,! slack5+ b> mu/ be arrang$ to "w 9 "t ) ! d\p /&>ds1 & %\ld n slack5 ! y>n too mu* nor too little1 j keep+ x at a uni=m t5sion4 ,! great po9t ) t5d] or weak y>n is to r$uce all friction to a m9imum1 no matt] by :at x is caus$1 & if ?is is done ! y>n & d\ps1 if !y are ( a fair quality to beg9 )1 %\ld bo? "w well2 b a v slight diff]5ce 9 sett+ ! d\p may make a great deal ( diff]5ce 9 ! work+ ( x4 ,a d\p t may be cut to pieces 9 work+ #bj y>ds ( clo? might "w #djj or #ejj y>ds ) s little alt]ation z n to be noticeable to ^? n accu/om$ to ! "w4 ,! slack5+ b> mu/ n rise s high z to raise ! y>n t is above x1 nor mu/ x s9k s l[ z to press ! :ip d[n on ! back h>ness bo>d1 & x mu/ be s regulat$ t )9 ^! limits x w give ! prop] am\nt ( slack5+1 & prev5t ! :ip w>p f gett+ tight & draw+ up ! small back h>ness4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ach ,wor/$ makes ! be/ weav+ d\ps = /rong "w1 b = light] "w cotton is mo/ly us$1 be+ f9] & *eap]4 ,sometimes poli%$ l95 y>n is us$ & makes a v smoo? d\p1 b does n give ! we>4 ,small metallic r+s are sometimes us$ on ! loops ( ! d\ps1 & ! w>p drawn ?r\gh ^! r+s2 ?is suits = y>n ) mu* fibre on x1 z x keeps ! fibre f gett+ twi/$ into ! d\ps1 b ! r+s cut ! d\ps fa/] ?an ord9>y y>n work+ 9 !m w\ld4 ,in/ead ( a slip heald 9 front1 d\ps ) a l+o on ea* h be5 us$1 ) ! mails = ! /&>ds z %[n at ,no4 #b1 ,fig4 #ach1 s t ! d\ps _c fall out ( !m1 & ! y>n :5 drawn up by ! back h>ness 9 %$d+ raises ! d\ps & l+oes up ) x4 ,! weight ( ! l+oes mu/ be su* z w suit ! /r5g? ( ! w>p to be us$--n too heavy = x to lift nor too light1 s t 9 ! cross %$ ! d\ps w\ld be drawn ?r\gh ! mails4 ,^! d\ps be+ sep>ate1 are easily built 9 ! h>ness & v easily repair$ by ! weav] :5 !y break1 b !y break too frequ5tly4 ,x is1 ( c\rse1 only = a /rong w>p t ?is me?od ( work+ is suitable1 & ev5 = x1 al?\gh x works v well1 ! pr9ciple is n good4 ,! gauze h>ness :i* w probably be mo/ frequ5tly met )1 at lea/ 9 ! cotton trade1 is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ach4 ,x is an old] h>ness ?an t describ$1 hav+ be5 pat5t$ 9 ,macclesfield 9 #ahgf 9 a some:at diff]5t =m4 ,! diff]5ce betwe5 ?is & ! prec$+ *iefly consi/s 9 ! me?od adopt$ = slack5+ ! y>n1 & ! jacqu>d may also be specially built to suit = ?is4 ,9 sett+ ?is loom ! h>ness & mails are ti$ up & levell$ z be=e1 b :5 work+ ! back rail is kept d[n1 z x usually is = gauze "w1 say ab\t #a_/b 94 l[] ?an ! eyes ( ! mails4 ,ea* :ip ?read has its own slack5]1 ! slack5+ app>atus consi/+ ( a h>ness wr\ght ei!r by ! same jacqu>d t works ! figure1 or by an extra "o1 :5 mu* patt]n is requir$4 ,! connections ( ! ne$les ) ! hooks are %[n at ,a1 ! two bottom ne$les be+ connect$ ) ! two front & two back hooks1 ! =m] = work+ ! gauze & ! latt] = work+ ! slack5]s4 ,?is h>ness is int5d$ = a #a-r\nd #c-;gauze1 & is m\nt$ on a #aj-r[ ma*9e ) an #h-r[ cyl9d] on x4 ,x is n necess>y t ! back h>ness = slack5+ %\ld be rais$ s high z ! figur+ h>ness is1 & = ?is reason1 z well z t x makes ! h>ness m direct & avoids friction1 x is ti$ to two sets ( lev]s z %[n at ,g & ,g#a2 !y are made ( brass & are fa/5$ on two rods1 "o ab\t #d 94 above ! o!r1 s z n to come into contact ) ea* o!r :5 ris+ or fall+4 ,! po9ts ( ! lev]s are fa/5$ to ! two back r[s ( hooks z %[n1 & ! h>ness is ti$ to wire hooks on ^! lev]s2 ,f is ! neck ( ! h>ness1 ,d ! cumb] bo>d1 & ,n ! l+oes1 :i* are mu* heavi] ?an ^? us$ = ! figur+ h>ness1 f #f to #aj p] p\nd be+ ! weights frequ5tly us$1 accord+ to ! class or weight ( ! "w4 ,! mails us$ on ! back h>ness are simil> to ^? us$ = ! d\ps--t is1 su* z are %[n at ,no4 #a 7,fig4 #ach72 b if ^! cut ) ! w>p saw+ ?r\gh !m1 glass mails %\ld be us$4 ,l ,l#a are two rods or b>s :i* support ! w>p t is drawn d[n betwe5 !m by ! slack5+ h>ness4 ,! clos] ^! b>s are set toge!r ! great] w be ! am\nt ( slack5+ giv5 to ! w>p :5 ! h>ness is drawn2 !re=e ^! b>s %\ld be made to slide ei!r way s t ! desir$ slackness is obta9$ by sett+ !m4 ,ab\t #c 94 to #d 94 ap>t is a good work+ wid?2 ! tops ( ! b>s %\ld be ab\t #a 94 l[] ?an ! mails 9 ! figur+ h>ness1 & ! tops ( ! eyes ( ! mails 9 ! back h>ness %\ld be #a 94 or #a-a_/d 94 l[] ?an ! rods4 ,ano!r me?od ( arrang+ ! ne$les 9 a jacqu>d = a gauze m\nt+ is %[n 9 ,fig4 #aci1 :i* is1 p]haps1 m conv5i5t = ! design]1 z w aft]w>ds be se54 ,9 ?is h>ness !re are #aj r[s ( hooks1 ! same z be=e--#f = ! figur+ h>ness & #b = ! d\p /&>ds4 ,! d\p /&>ds are "h on ! hooks connect$ ) ! f\r? & eigh? ne$les1 & come aft] ! ?reads t ! :ip 9 !m twi/s r\nd1 & fall 9 ?is position on ! design pap]1 in/ead ( bo? be+ at ! end ( a design--t is1 on ! sev5? & eigh? *ecks4 ,= any ord] ( twi/+1 ! arrangem5t ( ! hooks & ne$les might be made to suit on ! same pr9ciple4 ,x w be se5 t 9 ! l5o jacqu>d1 %[n 9 ,fig4 #ach1 a numb] ( lev]s & atta*m5ts are requir$ to "w ! slack5+ h>ness4 ,9 ord] to simplify ?is1 ,messrs4 ,devoge ,co4 h br\ght out a l5o jacqu>d ) :i* none ( ^! lev]s1 c41 are requir$1 ! slack5+ h>ness be+ ti$ to ! two back r[s ( hooks 9 ! ma*9e4 ,^! two r[s ( hooks are lift$ by a sep>ate griffe1 ! lift ( :i* is mu* less ?an t = work+ ! body hooks ( ! ma*9e1 & :i* c be v>i$ to suit ! am\nt ( slack5+ requir$4 ,?is ma*9e is %[n 9 ,fig4 #adj1 a view ( ! motion = rais+ ! griffes ( bo? back & body h>ness be+ giv5 9 ,fig4 #adj;,a4 c d 7,fig4 #adj;,a7 is ! l9k connection betwe5 ! b> ( ! griffe a a & ! top lev] ,l 7,fig4 #adj71 some:at simil> to :at is us$ = an ord9>y jacqu>d4 ,to raise ! small griffe at ! back1 x w be se5 t !re is a cross lev] e f ! l9ks d1 c to its fulcrum h on a bracket g atta*$ to ! top ( ! ma*9e4 ,! small or back griffe b is connect$ to ?is lev] by ! l9k f4 ,! am\nt ( lift giv5 to ! small griffe 9 proportion to t giv5 to ! l>ge "o w be z ! l5g? ( ! lev] f ! /ud 9 h to t 9 f is to its l5g? f ! /ud 9 h to t 9 d4 ,! f>!r ! fulcrum is pu%$ back 9 ! slot 9 :i* x is fa/5$1 ! m ! back griffe w be rais$1 ! l9k f be+ always v]tical4 ,! back griffe is arrang$ to comm5ce lift+ slightly 9 advance ( ! front "o1 9 ord] to less5 ! /ra9 on ! d\ps4 ,! ne$les are connect$ ) ! back & front hooks 9 ?is ma*9e simil>ly to ^? 9 ,fig4 #ach4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aci ,! draft ( a gauze 9 ! h>ness is j ! same z reg>ds ! d\ps z = %aft "w2 ! cross+ may be made f left to "r1 or ! rev]se1 b ! patt]n mu/ be made to suit4 ,"s m\nt ! h>nesses & pa9t ! patt]ns f "r to left4 ,ab\t ,brad=d ?is appe>s to be ! usual me?od1 & x does n matt] provid$ ! m\nt+1 draw+ & design+ be kept 9 accord2 b "h we %all keep to ! same pr9ciple z is recognis$ all ?r\gh--viz4 m\nt+ & design+ f left to "r1 :i* is ! correct me?od s f> z draw+ is conc]n$1 & equally conv5i5t 9 o!r respects4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #adj ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #adj;,a ,to design a patt]n = gauze3 if x is to be a simple geometrical patt]n x may be put direct on ! design pap]2 b if to be a figur$ patt]n1 a sket* %\ld be prep>$ = x 9 ! same mann] z = ord9>y figur$ patt]ns1 :e!r = dress goods1 curta9s1 or any o!r mat]ial4 ,any desir$ figur+ c be made1 provid+ suffici5t space be left betwe5 ! figures to admit ( ! op5 "w be+ made4 ,! figur+ %\ld be treat$ z ! ornam5tation ( a pla9 or %ort twill gr\nd figure1 :i* is wov5 on a gauze gr\nd2 ! figure may be entirely pla9 or twill ^u a gauze gr\nd1 9 :i* case x mu/ be suffici5tly pla9 & solid to be effective1 or x may be treat$ z damask figur+ on ornam5tal pat*es ( pla9 or twill on a gauze gr\nd2 or1 aga91 ! gauze may =m ! figure & ! gr\nd be pla9 or twill4 ,any v>iety may be made t +5uity c sugge/1 & figur+ ) extra w>p or weft may also be adopt$ if desir$4 ,:5 ab\t to put ! patt]n on design pap]1 x may be obs]v$ t out ( ! #h r[s ( ne$les 9 ! ma*9e only #f are us$ = figur+1 ! o!r #b be+ employ$ = gauz+2 !re=e1 "s means mu/ be devis$ = gett+ ! patt]n on ! pap] s z to suit ?is4 ,! simple/ plan is t adopt$ 9 ,am]ica--viz4 in/ead ( us+ two r[s ( hooks along ! jacqu>d = ! d\p /&>ds1 to leave z _m hooks at ! fir/ ( ! ma*9e z w correspond ) ! numb] ( d\p /&>ds requir$ = "o repeat ( ! patt]n4 ,suppose = ! same ties z ^? giv5--#ajj hooks = ! d\ps & #cjj = ! figure--!n ! cords f ! fir/ or la/ #ajj hooks w\ld be tak5 d[n ?r\gh ! two front r[s ( ! cumb] bo>d1 & ^? f ! #cjj hooks w\ld make up ! body ( ! h>ness4 ,:5 m\nt+ 9 ?is way1 ! jacqu>d w\ld be bett] turn$ ) ! c>ds hang+ ov] ! side ( ! loom1 z = ! #8,london tie4' ,?is me?od ( m\nt+ enables ! patt]n to be design$ = #cjj hooks & pa9t$ on ! design pap] indep5d5tly ( ! gauze1 :i* c be fill$ 9 aft]w>ds4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ada ,fig4 #ada is an example ( design+ 9 ?is mann]1 us+ #f r[s ( hooks1 to suit ! gauze4 ,! patt]n is put on ! r[s ( designs numb]$ #d1 #e1 #f1 #g1 & #h4 ,no4 #c is = ! selvage1 & ! work+ ( ! d\ps is on ,nos4 #a & #b4 ,?is is = a #a r\nd #b gauze1 #f *ecks1 or #b splitfuls ( gauze to ! design2 !re w\ld be #aj d\ps requir$ = ! #e designs 9 ! repeat ( ! patt]n1 & = ^! #aj *ecks are us$ ( designs ,nos4 #a & #b4 ,! ris+ ( ! back lea% ( ! h>ness to =m ! cross+ is %[n by ! dots m>k$ on ! design1 & z gauze is =m$ by rais+ ?is lea% & ! d\p alt]nately1 x is only necess>y to take ea* l9e ( ! design pap] = ! d\ps1 &1 foll[+ up ! m>k+s = ! back lea%es1 fill 9 = ! d\ps to rise :5 ! back lea% is sunk = ! gauze1 tak+ c>e to keep cle> ( ! figur+4 ,9 mak+ gauze ! d\p %\ld always rise imm$iately aft] ! figur+ ends1 to =m ! fir/ cross+1 & x %\ld also be up imm$iately be=e ! next portion ( ! figur+ beg9s1 s t 9 an irregul> figur$ patt]n ! gauze might frequ5tly require to be brok5 to effect ?is1 z may be se5 9 ,fig4 #ada4 ,take ! fir/ upright l9e ( ! patt]n1 design ,no4 #d3 ! back lea% is rais$ = ?ree1 !n ! d\p = ?ree1 & ! figure foll[s4 ,pass+ on to ! t5? l9e x w be se5 t ! d\p rises = ?ree aft] ! figure1 & is also up = ?ree be=e ! next figure beg9s2 b1 pass+ on to designs #g & #h1 x w be se5 t ! ris+s ( ! d\p & back lea% w\ld n fall 9 regul>ly 9 ?rees aga9/ ! figure1 z x w\ld be bett] if !y did1 & !re=e ! gauze is brok5 s z to fall 92 b 9 small patt]ns ( ?is description1 :5 x is ( importance to keep ! outl9e ( ! figure z regul> z possible1 ?is c & %\ld be rem$i$2 in/ead ( ! outl9e ( ! figure runn+ diagonally on ! design pap] 9 /eps ( "o *eck1 x %\ld g 9 /eps ( z _m *ecks z !re are ?reads to ! twi/ ( ! gauze 9 ! w>p & %ots 9 ea* twi/ 9 ! weft4 ,?is is %[n 9 ,fig4 #adb1 :]e all ! twi/+ falls 9 regul>ly ) ! figure4 ,?is may to a great ext5t be c>ri$ out ) irregul> figures by ! design] ex]cis+ a little judgm5t1 & :5 fill+ 9 ! gauze make up ! pla9 edg+ ( ! figur+ to fall 9 ) x--t is1 only to break ! gauze :]e !re is room to d x effectively1 & :]e !re is n1 a few dots c be add$ to ! pla94 ,if ,figs4 #ada & #adb be comp>$1 x may be se5 h[ ?is c\ld be done3 exam9+ designs #d & #h above ! figures1 ! latt] bel[ z well2 b ,fig4 #adb %[s ! prop] me?od ( treat+ ^! small geometrical figures4 ,ano!r po9t to be obs]v$ is :e!r all ! d\p lea%es are to be rais$ toge!r to =m ! gauze1 or :e!r x is to be =m$ by rais+ e alt]nate d\p lea% & e alt]nate back lea%1 z is done 9 ^! figures4 ,! latt] me?od is pref]able = work+1 z x makes an ev5 t5sion on e %$1 :]eas if "o %$ is a full cross %$ =m$ by ! d\ps1 & ! rev]se ( ?is an op5 %$ ) no cross+1 ! cross %$ w be ! tight]1 & produce a c]ta9 am\nt ( pluck+1 ) a t5d5cy to %ire 9 "s patt]ns2 b 9 case ( work+ dices or any patt]n :]e ! top & bottom ( ! figure ext5d "s di/ance /raight across ! design pap]1 x w\ld be impossible = ! fir/ %$ ( ! gauze to be =m$ by ! d\p if only e alt]nate d\p lea% 0 rais$4 ,"s judgm5t mu/ !re=e be ex]cis$ 9 ^! matt]s1 & ! be/ effect obta9$ t w suit circum/ances4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #adb ,n[ to put ! patt]ns on design pap] to suit ! h>ness :5 ! two front r[s ( ! jacqu>d are us$ to "w ! d\ps1 z 9 ,fig4 #ach1 also :5 any o!r r[s are us$1 z 9 ,fig4 #aci3 ! simple/ way to d ?is--at lea/1 = ^? n well accu/om$ to ! "w--is to design !m on #f-r[ pap]1 z ,fig4 #adb1 & aft]w>ds transf] !m to #h-r[ pap]1 leav+ ! l9es = ! d\ps empty1 ! d\p l9es be+ aft]w>ds fill$ 91 z 9 ,figs4 #adc & #add4 ,fig4 #add has ! advantage t ea* splitful ( gauze /&s alone1 :]eas :5 fill+ 9 ! m>k+s = ! d\ps 9 ,fig4 #add1 two splitfuls /& toge!r2 b a little practice makes "o me?od z simple z ! o!r4 ,! dots repres5t ! m>k+s = ! d\ps1 & ! %ad$ squ>es ^? = rais+ ! back lea%es to =m ! op5 %$ ( ! gauze4 ,! transf]r+ ( ! designs f "o %eet ( design pap] to ano!r is1 ( c\rse1 a matt] ( tr\ble & exp5se1 & may be avoid$ if an exp]i5c$ c>d-cutt] is to cut ! c>ds4 ,! design ne$ n be transf]r$1 b h ! m>ks = rais+ ! d\ps put on ! same l9es ( ! design pap] z ^? = rais+ ! back lea%es = ! op5 %$4 ,?is is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ade1 ! %ad$ squ>es be+ ! same z 9 ,figs4 #adc & #add2 b ! dots1 in/ead ( be+ put on l9es left = !m1 z 9 ^! figures1 are put on ! same l9es z ! %ad$ squ>es1 & ! c>d-cutt] sees to _! be+ cut on ! correct l9es1 z 9 ,figs4 #adc & #add4 ,9 design+1 diff]5t col\rs w\ld be us$4 ,! %ad$ squ>e %\ld be ! same col\r z ! figure1 z !y are to be cut = ! l9es !y are on1 b ! dots %\ld be ( a diff]5t col\r1 to be cut = a diff]5t l9e ( ! c>d f t on :i* !y are plac$ on ! design--! dot on ! fir/ *eck ( a design be+ ! sev5? hole 9 a r[ ( ! c>d1 & t on ! ?ird *eck ( a design be+ ! la/ hole ( a r[ on ! c>d4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #adc ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #add ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ade ,fig4 #adf %[s a portion ( an ornam5tal patt]n z x w\ld be design$ = a gauze gr\nd ( two ?reads ( w>p twi/+ r\nd two #d 9 ! split & #d picks into ea* cross+ ( ! gauze4 ,?is w\ld require a #aj-r[ ma*9e1 eight r[s = ! figur+ h>ness & two r[s = ! d\p /&>ds4 ,:5 two ?reads are twi/+ r\nd two1 x is n necess>y to h a d\p = ea*1 ?\gh x may be desirable2 b x suits v well to h bo? ?reads drawn ?r\gh ! same d\p4 ,x w be necess>y to h a /rong] d\p 9 ?is case1 b if ! w>p is v light x w\ld h s mu* m to d 9 draw+ up ! heavy d\p ?an if ea* ?read 0 drawn ?r\gh a v light d\p t ! latt] _h bett] be adopt$2 o!rwise a /rong] d\p1 ) bo? ?reads ?r\gh "o1 is simpl]4 ,on ! patt]n1 ! d\ps are rais$ by ! dots1 :i* mu/ be cut on ! prop] l9e ( ! c>d1 z be=e2 bo? l9es are dott$ z if ea* ?read _h its own d\p1 b only ! front dots ( ea* pair are necess>y4 ,! %ad$ squ>es are = rais+ ! cross+ ?reads ) ! lea%es = ! op5 %$ ( ! gauze4 ,9 ?is patt]n x is necess>y t ! outl9e ( ! figure %\ld g 9 /eps ( f\r w>p ways1 z !re are f\r ?reads to ! twi/2 b x is n necess>y t x %\ld g 9 /eps ( f\r weft ways4 ,a bett] outl9e c be giv5 to ! figure by n adh]+ to ?is1 ?\gh ! p]=ations 9 ! gauze w be to "s ext5t sacrific$ by be+ irregul>2 b ?is w\ld be s 9 any case 9 ord] to raise ! d\p /&>d aft] ! figure :5 ! d\ps & lea%es are gauz+ alt]nately2 !y might be regul>ly />t$ at "o side ( ! figure1 b ?is w\ld probably make !m m irregul> at ! o!r side4 ,by foll[+ r\nd ! edges ( ?is figure x w be se5 t by a little c>e no blemi% ( any consequ5ce ne$ be left1 ?\gh x w n be s p]fect z :5 calculat$ to fall 9 z ,fig4 #ade4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #adf ,any v>iety ( simple gauze texture may be us$1 z well z ! pla9 & honeycomb gauze1 b unless !re is pl5ty ( space & ! figures are pla9 & l>ge1 no v intricate cross+s %\ld be attempt$1 unless = /ripes1 z !y w\ld probably m> ! outl9e ( ! figure2 b if n1 !y may be us$ :]e suitable4 ,ano!r important po9t 9 design+ = gauze is t if ! texture ( ! solid clo? is loose & t ( ! gauze pretty firmly twi/$1 ! take-up ( ! w>p may be v diff]5t :5 weav+4 ,to avoid ?is ! gauze & figure %\ld be well int]mix$1 & n be 9 too great quantities 9 any "o "p--9 fact1 ! gauze & pla9 %\ld be con/antly int]*ang+1 & :5 ! patt]n is su* t ?is _c be1 ! textures mu/ be regulat$ s t !re w be ab\t an equal quantity ( w>p tak5 up = ea*4 ,a little practice w soon %[ ?is4 ,no?+ has be5 said ab\t ! description ( jacqu>d us$ = work+ gauze1 b ! same pr9ciple holds good z = work+ ) %afts4 ,a gauze %$ is tak5 to be a pla9 jacqu>d lift--t is1 ! %$ =m$ by ! s+le-lift jacqu>d raises ! y>n & lets x d[n aga9 be=e beg9n+ to raise ! foll[+ %$4 ,?is enables ! d\p & d\p y>n to fall into _! places be=e be+ drawn away to =m a foll[+ %$4 ,at ! same "t1 we are n limit$ to a s+le-lift jacqu>d4 ,if y h a d\ble-lift jacqu>d1 & want to "w a small piece ( gauze1 d s2 b d x correctly1 or1 9 o!r words1 take means to make a good job ( x4 ,be=e expla9+ h[ to d ?is1 x w be well to %[ :]e ! difficulty exi/s4 ,9 a d\ble-act+ ma*9e "o griffe is ris+ :5 ! o!r is fall+1 & 9 pla9 gauze ! d\p /&>d & lea% c>ry+ ! cross+ ?read are rais$ alt]nately1 "o %ot be+ ?r[n into ! %$ =m$ by ea*4 ,!re=e1 ! same ?read is up = e %ot1 & ! ?read r\nd :i* x twi/s is always d[n4 ,n[1 :5 "o griffe has rais$ ! d\p /&>d & ! next "o raises ! lea%es c>ry+ ! same ?reads1 bo? w pass 9 ! c5tre ( ! %$1 &1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #adg1 ! cross+ ?read w be dragg+ up ! ly+ ?read f ! position %[n by ! "u dott$ l9e1 !reby caus+ consid]able friction on ! y>n1 :i* mu/ be detrim5tal to a f9e or weak w>p1 & is incl9$ to drag ! d\p ?r\gh ! eyes ( _! /&>ds2 b z ! h>ness 9 com+ to ! c5tre slack5s ! w>p ?reads1 & also z ! slack5] beg9s to act :5 ! h>ness beg9s to rise1 ! ?reads w be fur!r slack5$ 9 ^? %$s :]e ! d\ps foll[ ! back lea%es1 & ?is r$uces ! friction4 ,x may1 h[ev]1 be entirely avoid$ by rais+ ! ly+ ?reads to ! mid position to meet ! desc5d+ griffe1 & !n let d[n ) x4 ,a simple me?od ( do+ ?is is to h ! lea%es c>ry+ ! ly+ ?reads ?r\gh a sep>ate slip ( cumb] bo>d at ! back1 & knots on !m above x1 s t :5 x is rais$ all ! ly+ ?reads w be drawn up ) x4 ,! cumb] bo>d c be rais$ by a cam1 or 9 any o!r suitable way4 7,see ,j\rnal ,weav+ = ,scot* ,c>pets47 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #adg ,^! lea%es might also be rais$ by means ( a %aft ?r\gh loops 9 !m1 or ) b>s "u ! jacqu>d hooks1 9 ! same way z is done 9 twill+ h>nesses 7:i* see71 b ) a special motion to raise & l[] !m4 ,9 ,fig4 #adg1 ! dott$ l9e ,a1 ,b %[s ! middle position or c5tre ( ! trav]se ( ! y>n 9 %$d+4 ,al?\gh ?is is ! prop] means to adopt to "w gauze satisfactorily ) a d\ble-act+ jacqu>d1 or ) any d\ble-act+ %$d+ motion1 x may be t small portions ( gauze1 su* z a few /ripes up a web1 are want$ )\t ! tr\ble ( mak+ any special arrangem5ts = x4 ,good /rong twi/ cotton y>n w "w v well1 if nicely temp]$1 9 a d\ble-act+ ma*9e4 ,! slack5]s c be arrang$ by leav+ a few hooks ap>t to "w !m )1 & cords ti$ to ^! hooks & let d[n at ! back1 9 ! same mann] z 9 ! gauze h>ness 7,fig4 #ach71 :i* w d v well4 ,:5 ?ree or m %ots are ?r[n into ea* %$ ( ! gauze--t is1 betwe5 ! cross+s--!re w be mu* less friction ?an :5 ! cross+ takes place at ea* %ot1 z x is only at ! cross+ ! friction takes place4 ,"o s\rce ( annoyance 9 work+ gauze is ! we> on ! d\ps1 :i* requires !m to be *ang$ frequ5tly & adds co/ to ! production4 ,x has (t5 be5 attempt$ to "w ! gauze by o!r means1 & = "s classes ( "w ?is has prov$ successful4 ,"o ( ! be/ arrangem5ts1 & "o t is l>gely us$1 is ! gauze re$1 :i* is almo/ entirely adopt$ ab\t ,glasg[ = weav+ l5o curta9s 9 ! p[] loom2 x is also employ$ = o!r classes ( "w1 b is limit$ 9 its use4 ,x w n supply ! place ( a gauze h>ness4 ,,! ,,gauze ,,re$4 ,?is is pr9cipally us$ = work+ l5o curta9s or ,madras musl9s 9 p[] looms4 ,! texture ( ^! fabrics is a pla9 gauze gr\nd1 ! figure be+ =m$ by "o or m col\rs ( ?ick s(t weft1 ?r[n 9 & b\nd = ! figure1 b flu%$ or float$ ov] ! gr\nd1 to be cut (f aft]w>ds4 ,! re$ is wr\ght 9 conjunction ) a h>ness1 ! re$ =m+ ! gr\nd ( ! fabric & ! h>ness ! figur+4 ,! h>ness is m\nt$ 9 ! same way z a half-h>ness1 or = half ! w>p1 & ! re$ does ! "w ( ! d\ps4 ,! gauze re$ w suit = gauze up to #ee ?reads p] in* 9 ! re$1 b is m us$ = fabrics rang+ f #cj to #ej ?reads p] in*4 ,a portion ( ! re$ is giv5 9 ,fig4 #adh1 9 :i* x w be se5 t x consi/s ( ! usual d5ts set 9 ribs1 & a set ( half-d5ts1 p]=at$ at ! po9ts :i* are set into ! l[] rib ( ! re$ beh9d ! o!rs1 & lie ab\t half-way ?r\gh ! splits 9 a slightly slant+ position4 ,! gauze re$ works beh9d ! slay & 9 front ( ! h>ness4 ,x %\ld be ab\t #a_/b 94 beh9d ! slay :5 ! cranks are at ! back c5tre1 s z to leave suffici5t room = cle>ance betwe5 !m4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #adh ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #adi ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aej ,a good me?od ( work+ ! re$ is %[n 9 ,fig4 #adi1 :i* is a back view4 ,a is a rock+ %aft support$ by brackets1 z a1 on ! top rail ( ! loom2 ,b is a lev] project+ t[>ds ! front ( ! loom1 & ! rod b f x supports "o end ( ! re$2 ,c is ano!r lev] on ! %aft ,a1 project+ backw>ds1 & ! rod ,d connects x ) ! tappet treadles1 s t :5 ! treadle is press$ d[n ! re$ rises2 ab\t #c-a_/b 94 is ! usual height = x to rise4 ,f is ! upp] rib ( ! gauze re$1 & ,f#a ! l[] "o4 ,g is ! yoke ( ! re$4 ,on ! yoke is fa/5$ a b> ,p ,p1 connect$ ) ! /rap :i* passes r\nd ! top rib ( ! re$4 ,i ,i are two projections on ! b> ,p ,p1 ?r\gh :i* ! slide rod ,e ,e#a passes & is fa/5$ at ! top to a bracket ,c on ! top ( ! loom1 & at ! bottom x fits into a socket or /& ,n fix$ to ! gr\nd2 ! re$ slides up & d[n on ?is rod4 ,h is a tube r\nd ! slide rod betwe5 ! projections ,i ,i1 & is ab\t #a_/b 94 %ort] ?an ! di/ance betwe5 !m2 to ! bottom ( ?is tube is fix$ ! support ,h#a = ! dipp+ rod ,k1 :i*1 :5 ! y>n "u x is v tight1 c yield #a_/b 941 along ) ! tube ,h4 ,! re$ is n positive 9 fall+1 b :5 rais$ by ! tappet x falls by its own weight & t ( ! weight-box ,l1 :i* slides on ! rod ,e ,e#a4 ,! weight-box is fa/5$ by a rod ,m to ! crank on ! b> :i* supports ! dipp+ rod1 & weights x z well z ! re$4 ,small weights1 z ,r1 ab\t #a_/d lb4 weight1 c be plac$ 9 ! weight-box till z mu* weight z is requir$ is put on4 ,fig4 #aea gives a view ( ! gauze re$ m\nt+1 ) ! gauze or cross-%$ op54 ,e alt]nate ?read ( ! w>p is drawn into "o ( ! gauze d5ts1 & e o!r "o into ! h>ness1 z %[n4 ,! h>ness is levell$ #b 94 or #b-a_/b 94 bel[ ! level ( ! brea/ beam2 or1 hav+ ! slay levell$ ) ! race #a_/b 94 bel[ ! brea/ beam :5 ! cranks are at ! top c5tre1 pu% back ! slay till ! cranks are at ! back c5tre1 & place a /raight-edge across ! race1 & ! "u edge ( ! /raight-edge :]e x passes ! front r[ ( ! h>ness w give ! height = ! eyes ( ! mails4 ,! back %ell ,e %\ld be set #a_/b 94 bel[ ! level ( ! brea/ beam1 & %\ld be made to vibrate ) a tappet1 :i* %\ld l[] x :5 ! gauze %$ is op5$1 & keep x rais$ = ! figur+ %ots4 ,a %[s ! position ( ! weav]'s re$1 ,b is ! gauze re$1 ,c ! dipp+ rod1 ,d ! heck or ravel :i* is on ! h>ness "u ! h>ness re$ or cumb] bo>d ,f2 ! ravel %\ld be ab\t #f 94 above ! y>n & #c 94 bel[ ! cumb] bo>d1 mak+ ! latt] #i 94 or #aj 94 above ! y>n4 ,! ravel is l a small h>ness re$ ) only "o rib on x1 :i* is plac$ beh9d ! h>ness1 be+ cov]$ ) an iron tube to /r5g!n x2 9 front a flat iron rod is fa/5$ above ! ends ( ! d5ts & s]ves z ! second rib4 ,?ree wires are /ret*$ along ! ravel to keep ! h>ness /eady1 9 ! same way t !y are /ret*$ along a h>ness re$1 b ?ree are suffici5t1 in/ead ( hav+ "o = ea* r[ ( h>ness4 ,! ravel is %[n 9 full 9 ,fig4 #aej2 x is ab\t #a-a_/b 94 deep 7or across x71 & ! cumb] bo>d #c 94 deep2 x is = ! purpose ( draw+ ! y>n 9 ! h>ness to ei!r side1 s t :5 ! gauze re$ is ris+ ! half d5ts may pass to ! "r & left ( ! ?reads 9 ! h>ness alt]nately2 x is ?is :i* gives ! gauze twi/4 ,two b>s ,a ,a#a 7,fig4 #aej7 ext5d f ! ends ( ! frame ( ! heck2 ^! slide 9 brackets ,c ,c#a fa/5$ to ! sides ( ! loom4 ,! lat]al motion is giv5 to x by a lev] ,b ,b#a ) its fulcrum at ,b#a2 ?is lev] has a b[l ,d on its l[] end1 :i* is act$ on by a :eel ,e driv5 at ! prop] spe$ to suit ! %$d+4 ,e#a is a face view ( ?is :eel1 :i* has a projection on x = %ift+ ! lev]4 ,sometimes ! motion is imp>t$ to ! lev] s z to %ift ! ravel j :5 x is requir$--t is1 be=e ! gauze re$ has ris5 to =m ! %$2 & sometimes ! ravel is %ift$ a "p ( ! way at ea* %ot ( figur+1 & has complet$ its trav]se be=e ! gauze re$ has ris52 ?is latt] makes a m gradual pressure on ! h>ness1 & avoids any sudd5 pluck+4 ,:5 ! :eel ,e acts ^u ! lev] ! ravel is drawn to ! "r1 & :5 releas$ ! spr+ ,f1 fa/5$ f ! side ( ! loom to ! end ( ! ravel1 draws x back aga94 ,! trav]se ( ! ravel %\ld be ab\t #c_/d 94 ,c#b is a sep>ate view ( ! brackets ,c & ,c#a4 ,sometimes ! heck is on ! y>n betwe5 ! re$ & ! h>ness1 in/ead ( be+ on ! h>ness2 9 ?is case !re mu/ be ab\t #h 94 betwe5 ! re$ & ! h>ness1 & ! heck or ravel re/s ab\t half-way betwe5 !m4 ,! h>ness is wr\ght ) a d\ble-lift ma*9e & ?ree tappets4 ,"o tappet :i* is mu* l a pla9 wyp] tappet1 b ) less dwell on x1 acts on "o ( ! treadles1 :i* is connect$ by a rod & lev] to "o ( ! griffes3 ?is raises ! fl[]+ %$1 ! lift be+ ab\t #c-a_/b 941 & ! fl[]+ %ot is ?r[n 9 z 9 ord9>y "w1 ! %$s be+ close :5 ! cranks are at ! top c5tre or a little ov] x4 ,z soon z ?is %ot is ?r[n 91 :5 ! cranks are a little ov] ! back c5tre1 ! second griffe is rais$ by ano!r tappet4 ,z ?is takes place be=e ! cyl9d] is 9 aga9/ ! ne$les1 all ! y>n 9 ! h>ness is rais$2 ! reason = rais+ x is to get all ! h>ness y>n cle> ( ! half d5ts ( ! re$1 s t x c be %ift$ ov] !m by ! ravel4 ,! gauze re$ is rais$ by ! ?ird tappet2 x beg9s to rise %ortly aft] ! second griffe1 or :5 ! cranks are a little pa/ ! top c5tre dur+ ! same revolution4 ,! y>n rais$ by ! fir/ griffe beg9s to fall at ! same "t t ! re$ beg9s to rise2 ! second griffe raises ! bottom y>n till x meets ! top y>n ( ! fir/ %$ desc5d+1 at :i* "t ! ravel %\ld be fully %ift$1 & ! po9ts ( ! half d5ts ris+ %\ld be #c_/d 94 bel[ ! h>ness y>n4 ,z ! h>ness falls & ! re$ rises1 ! y>n 9 ! =m] w pass d[n at ! opposite sides ( ! half-d5ts to :i* x 0 be=e be+ rais$2 a gr\nd %ot is !n ?r[n 9 7?is is ! second gr\nd %ot71 & ! re$ desc5ds1 tak+ ! y>n 9 x d[n level ) t 9 ! h>ness4 ,! h>ness is aga9 rais$ z be=e = ! next fl[]+ %ot4 ,:5 ! re$ is rais$ to =m ! %$ = ! gr\nd %ot no c>d is requir$ to pass ov] ! cyl9d] ( ! jacqu>d1 & to prev5t "o pass+ ! sneck or %e>s is rais$ = ?is %ot1 s t ! cyl9d] is n turn$4 ,! re$ mu/ be rais$ 9 "t to h ! %$ op5 = ! passage ( ! %uttle1 b keep+ x a little late requires less lift to be giv5 to ! second %$ :i* is be+ rais$ to get ! bottom y>n cle> ( ! half d5ts ( ! re$4 ,! above description is int5d$ = weav+ fabrics ) "o cov]1 or "o col\r ( fl[]+ %ot1 z :5 ! patt]n is 9 :ite or a s+le col\r1 z x (t5 is2 b :5 two or m col\rs ( figur+ weft are us$1 ! fl[]+ %$s might be op5$ ) "o griffe work+ ! ma*9e s+le-act+1 & con/ruct+ & tim+ ! tappets to suit4 ,"o tappet w\ld !n op5 two or m %$s = ! fl[]+2 ! second & ?ird tappets w\ld act on ! bottom y>n & re$ z be=e4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 usual to "w ! ma*9e d\ble-act+1 & to con/ruct ! tappets to raise ! griffes alt]nately = two cov]s4 ,no4 #a tappet w\ld raise "o griffe1 ,no4 #b tappet w\ld raise ! o!r griffe2 !n a small w+ on ,no4 #a tappet w\ld lift ! bottom y>n1 & ,no4 #c tappet w\ld raise ! re$1 ! sneck be+ lift$ at ! la/ beat ( ! cyl9d] to prev5t x f turn+4 ,= ?ree or m cov]s ! tappets w\ld require to be arrang$ to suit 9 a simil> mann]4 ,fig4 #aea;,a is a front view ( ! position ( ! y>n 9 ! re$ :5 ! fl[]+ %$ is drawn4 ,only a portion ( ! h>ness w\ld be rais$ = ea* %ot1 z1 say1 ! ?reads #a1 #a1 ! rema9d] #b1 #b1 be+ sunk4 ,aft] ! fl[]+ %ots are ?r[n 91 ! bottom y>n 9 ! h>ness #b1 #b has to be %ift$ to ! o!r side ( ! half d5ts = ! gauze %$4 ,x is !re=e rais$ up to meet ! ?reads #a1 #a com+ d[n4 ,all are !n %ift$ toge!r1 & :5 ! re$ is rais$ ! position ( ! h>ness y>n is %[n at ! crosses2 #jjjj %[s ! position x 0 9 at ! previ\s gr\nd %ot4 ,! dots on ! half d5ts %[ ! position ( ! y>n 9 !m 9 relation to t 9 ! h>ness #b1 #b :5 ! re$ is at re/1 ! y>n 9 bo? re$ & h>ness be+ on a level4 ,! re$ c\ld be wr\ght turn$ upside d[n ) a h>ness1 b all ! loose fl[]+ weft w\ld require to be bel[4 ,9 ?is case !re is no necessity = gett+ ! "u %$ cle> ( ! gauze d5ts = *ang+ x ) ! ravel to =m ! gr\nd %$2 b ?is is an objectionable me?od ( work+1 p>ticul>ly ) a light patt]n1 on acc\nt ( ! heavy %$ t has to be rais$4 ,if ! flu%$ y>n 0 ?r[n to ! top & ! re$ turn$ upside d[n1 ! only way to "w ! heck w\ld be on ! h>ness bel[ ! mails1 :i* w\ld require x to be z deep z a re$ or cumb] bo>d1 9 ord] to let ! l+oes fall1 & ?is w\ld n answ] v well4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aea ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aea;,a ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,d\ble ,,clo? ,,d\ble ,,clo? ,,& ,,quilt+ ,,h>nesses ,a v great v>iety ( clo?s come "u ! head+ ( d\ble clo?2 9 fact1 almo/ e description ( col\r$ clo? figur$ 9 ! loom1 except+ col\r$ damasks & ! common] descriptions ( dress goods1 z well z _m uncol\r$ fabrics1 are g5]ally wov5 m or less on ?is pr9ciple4 ,quilt+s are mo/ly made on ! d\ble-clo? pr9ciple1 & h no?+ to specially di/+ui% !m1 except t "s makes ( clo? appe> to be m suitable = goods ( ?is description1 ?\gh frequ5tly o!r fabrics ( a mu* m co/ly nature are wov5 9 ! same way2 z1 = in/ance1 matelasses may be made 9 ! ri*e/ silk & wor/$ = jackets1 z well z 9 co>se cotton = quilts4 ,"o ( ! l>ge/ sections ( d\ble clo? is c>pet+s1 b ^! w be describ$ 9 a sep>ate section4 ,= figur+ d\ble clo?s ! same pr9ciples ( ! /ructure ( ! clo?1 c41 hold good z :5 weav+ !m pla91 or 9 fancy texture4 ,any suitable patt]n c be put ^u any description ( d\ble clo? ) a full h>ness m\nt+ m\nt$ 9 ! ord9>y mann]2 b ! patt]n mu/ be spread ov] ! design pap] to suit ! description ( clo? to be made1 :i* (t5 necessitates its be+ 9 a v di/ort$ =m1 unless x c be arrang$ 9 diff]5t col\rs s t ! c>d-cutt] c cut sev]al c>ds f ea* l9e ( ! design pap]4 ,= in/ance1 if ?ree col\rs are requir$ to =m "o complete weft l9e1 !n ?ree l9es ( ! design pap] w\ld be tak5 up ) ^!1 unless ! col\rs c\ld be arrang$ t ! ?ree c>ds c\ld be cut f ! "o l9e1 z frequ5tly c be done2 & ! same = ! w>p :5 !re is a face & back w>p1 or sev]al col\rs to be br\ght up = "o w>p l9e4 ,:5 !re are two w>p ?reads1 "o = ! face & "o = ! back1 two hooks ( ! jacqu>d are requir$ to weave !m1 & two l9es on ! design pap] are also requir$1 unless two col\rs are pa9t$ on "o l9e to guide ! c>d-cutt] 9 cutt+ ! c>ds4 ,x is a great sav+ ( "w to ! design] :5 ! patt]n has n to be spread ov] ! pap] s z to give ea* l9e sep>ately1 z do+ s g5]ally puts ! patt]n s mu* out ( %ape t x requires fir/ to be design$ squ>e1 or ( ! prop] dim5sions1 on suitable design pap]1 & aft]w>ds transf]r$ to ! work+ design = ! c>d-cutt]4 ,:5 goods are be+ l>gely made ?is c (t5 be avoid$ by special me*anism or m\nt+1 to act in/ead ( ! c>ds1 x be+ !n wor? ! tr\ble ( hav+ a specially prep>$ m\nt+1 & x is 9 ^! cases :]e d\ble-clo? m\nt+s are us$4 ,p]haps ! simple/ class ( ! d\ble-clo? range1 ?\gh n really a d\ble clo?1 is figur+ ) extra weft4 ,! figur+ weft may be ?r[n 9 z a spott+ int]mitt5tly1 or may be e alt]nate %ot1 a gr\nd %ot foll[+ ea* figure %ot4 ,suppose ! clo? to be a pla9 gr\nd & a twill figure1 & t #ejj c>ds w\ld be requir$ to weave ! figure if x 7 pla9 damask2 x is !n evid5t t #a1jjj c>ds w\ld be requir$ if e alt]nate %ot is gr\nd1 & ! o!rs = figure1 & t ! #ejj pla9 c>ds = ! gr\nd w\ld be two c>ds repeat$ #bej times4 ,n[1 in/ead ( ?is1 if we use a d\ble-cyl9d] jacqu>d1 & put ! figur+ c>ds on "o side & f\r pla9 c>ds on ! o!r side1 we c save #dif c>ds1 z ! f\r c>ds on ! cyl9d] w "w ! pla9 at e alt]nate %ot4 ,or suppose a s+le-cyl9d] ma*9e to be us$1 !n %afts might be put ?r\gh loops 9 ! h>ness2 or ! cumb] bo>d might be made 9 sections1 ) knots on ! h>ness tw9es above x1 s t 9 ei!r case ! h>ness c\ld be rais$ 9 r[s to =m pla9 clo?4 ,! pla9 %$ c\ld be =m$ ) a tappet & lev]s1 z 9 j\rnal weav+1 & ! griffe w\ld only be rais$ = e figur+ %ot4 ,pla9 clo? might also be wr\ght ) a twill+ motion on ! ma*9e1 su* z is us$ on twill+ jacqu>ds4 ,a pair ( pressure h$dles 9 front ( ! h>ness is a common me?od ( accompli%+ ?is 9 ! h& loom4 ,! h>ness is drawn = "o %ot1 !n let d[n1 & "o ( ! pressure h$dles sunk & ! o!r rais$ = ! second %ot4 ,= ! ?ird %ot ! h>ness is aga9 drawn1 & = ! f\r? %ot ! pla9 %$ is cross$ ) ! h$dles4 ,a twill or any figure may be us$1 z well z a pla9 gr\nd4 ,! next /ep 9 d\ble clo? is p]haps d\ble-weft-fac$ clo?--t is1 :5 ! surface ( ! clo? on bo? sides is =m$ by weft1 ! w>p ly+ 9 ! c5tre1 & m]ely act+ z b9d]s to b9d ! two wefts toge!r4 ,! w>p may occasionally be br\ght to ! surface to give additional effect1 or to add a ?ird col\r2 or ! body ( ! weft may be kept on "o side1 ! w>p =m+ ! gr\nd on ! o!r side1 ) a weft figure on x1 produc+ a "o-sid$ clo?4 ,?is class ( "w is be/ wr\ght 9 a pick-&-pick loom2 b a *eck loom--t is1 "o ) extra boxes at "o side only--c frequ5tly be us$1 & gives mu* less tr\ble4 ,= a *eck loom two f9e %ots may be us$ z "o1 hav+ ea* pair ( c>ds alike1 except at ! selvage1 & ?r[+ two %ots into ea* %$4 ,( c\rse ?is takes twice ! numb] ( picks & c>ds 7unless two picks be giv5 to ea* c>d71 b 9 "s cases1 z = bord]s1 ?is may be an advantage 9 comp>ison ) work+ pick-&-pick4 ,(t5 two succe$+ c>ds ( ! patt]n = ! same col\r are made to foll[ ea* o!r1 z may be f\nd 9 tape/ries1 c41 & ! weft knocks up into its place )\t %[+ any defect2 b 9 a heavy clo?1 ) a ?ick or /iff w>p1 ! weft c\ld n be knock$ close toge!r on ?is pr9ciple4 ,) a f9e b9d+1 w>p ( cotton & a ?ick] weft ( wooll5 or wor/$1 !re is no difficulty 9 ?is work+4 ,= d\ble-weft-fac$ patt]ns ! simple/ me?od ( design+ is to pa9t ! patt]n z if = pla9 damask1 & !n cut two c>ds = ea* l9e ( ! design pap]1 "o c>d be+ cut exactly ! rev]se ( ! o!r2 t is1 ! cutt] cuts ! pa9t$ squ>es = "o c>d & ! gr\nd squ>es = ! next c>d4 ,9 lac+ ^! two c>ds are kept toge!r1 a gr\nd & a fl[]+ c>d com+ alt]nately4 ,!re is1 h[ev]1 an objection to ?is me?od ( b9d+ ! texture ( ! clo?1 ?\gh 9 _m cases x works v well4 ,! objection is t ! w>p has to be br\ght f ! face ( "o side ?r\gh to ! face ( ! o!r side = ! succe$+ %ot to =m ! b9d+1 in/ead ( be+ br\ght f ! c5tre only to ! face z x %\ld be4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aeb ,fig4 #aeb %[s a portion ( a /ripe patt]n design$ to produce #h-;end twill$ /ripes4 ,if a black & a :ite weft are us$ pick-&-pick1 ! :ite pick com+ fir/1 ,a w\ld be a solid black /ripe & ,b a solid :ite /ripe1 or ! appe>ance w\ld be z on ! design pap]1 b mu* r$uc$ 9 size4 ,on ! "u side ( ! clo? ! col\rs w\ld be rev]s$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aec ,! fir/ c>d w\ld be cut z ! pa9t+1 cutt+ black1 & ! second c>d w\ld be exactly ! rev]se ( ?is1 cutt+ ! :ite or gr\nd squ>es on ! same l9e ( ! design pap]4 ,! texture =m$ on ! clo? by ^! c>ds is %[n 9 ,fig4 #aec1 ea* l9e ( ! design pap] repres5t+ "o c>d4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aed ,! correct me?od ( b9d+ is %[n 9 ,fig4 #aed1 :]e x w be obs]v$ t ! b9d+ ( two succe$+ weft %ots does n fall on ! same w>p ?read1 & t ! b9d+ dot w be cov]$ by ! floats ( ! prec$+ & succe$+ weft %ots :5 ! weft is knock$ up close4 ,!re are o!r squ>es on :i* ! b9d+ dots might be plac$ z well z ^? 9 ,fig4 #aed1 "o *eck to ! left ( :]e !y are be+ frequ5tly us$4 ,a /ripe patt]n1 z ,fig4 #aeb1 c be put ^u design pap] ) ea* l9e repres5t+ two c>ds1 & be twill$ to give ! texture 9 ,fig4 #aed1 z is %[n 9 ,fig4 #aee4 ,:5 cutt+ ?is ! cutt] cuts ! %ad$ squ>es & black dots = ! fir/ c>d1 & = ! second c>d he cuts :ite & cross$ squ>es on ! /ripe ,b1 & ! solid black squ>es on ! /ripe ,a1 :i* x w be se5 is exactly ! same z cutt+ ! black = ! fir/ two l9es ( ,fig4 #aed4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aee ,:5 pa9t+ ! design ! %ad$ squ>es may be r$1 ! black ones black1 ! black dots yell[ or :ite1 & ! crosses gre52 or any o!r conv5i5t col\rs may be adopt$4 ,x w be obs]v$ t 9 ,figs4 #aeb & #aee1 :]e ! rais$ & sunk twills come toge!r at ! junction ( ! two /ripes1 !re are no b9d+ dots on ! two ?reads ly+ beside ea* o!r4 ,x is n necess>y to h any b9d+ = ^! ?reads1 z ! two wefts cross+ b9d !m suffici5tly4 ,any desir$ figure may be wov5 on clo? on ?is pr9ciple1 :i* is a v conv5i5t "o1 z ! col\rs c be s readily *ang$1 & ?ree or m col\rs may be us$ z well z two2 b 9 ?is case !re is g5]ally a "r & a wrong side to ! clo?1 ! body ( ! wefts be+ at ! back & ea* col\r br\ght ?r\gh to ! face to =m ! figure4 ,in/ead ( ! body ( ! weft1 or t portion n requir$ = ! figure1 be+ at ! back ( ! clo?1 x may be 9 ! c5tre ( ! w>p1 & an equally good face made on bo? sides ( ! clo?2 b ?is requires m weft+1 makes a ?ick] & h>d] clo?1 & is m exp5sive & m tr\blesome to weave4 ,w>p figur+ may be done 9 exactly ! same way z describ$ = weft figur+1 & ! patt]n turn$ sideways %[s h[ x w\ld be = w>p2 ! only diff]5ce 9 ! "w all ?r\gh is to treat ! w>p z expla9$ = weft4 ,( c\rse1 9 ! design+ & c>d-cutt+1 cutt+ two c>ds1 "o ! rev]se ( ! o!r1 f a design pa9t$ z if = a damask1 w\ld n fall 91 b ! designs t are wr\ght fully out on ! design pap] w\ld be all "r4 ,a contraction ( ! "w simil> to cutt+ two c>ds f "o l9e ( ! design pap] w\ld h to be s\ght = 9 ! m\nt+ 9 ! fir/ place1 & 9 ! c>d-cutt+1 to suit x4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aef ,suppose ! design to be z 9 ,figs4 #aeb & #aee1 & to be pa9t$ = a #bjj-;jacqu>d1 !n to all[ = d\ble ! quantity ( w>p a #djj-;jacqu>d w\ld be requir$1 ! ma*9]y be+ increas$ in/ead ( ! numb] ( c>ds4 ,n[1 to m\nt a loom = ?is class ( "w ! simple/ plan is to divide ! ma*9e & cumb] bo>d into two divisions1 "o half be+ us$ = "o w>p1 :i* may be call$ ! face w>p1 & ! o!r half = ! o!r w>p1 :i* we may call ! back w>p4 ,a m\nt+ ( ?is description is %[n 9 ,fig4 #aef1 9 :i* ! ma*9e is divid$ into two portions1 #a & #b1 ) #bjj hooks 9 ea*2 ! cumb] bo>d is also divid$ into two sections1 m>k$ ,a & ,b4 ,"h only f\r r[s ( ne$les are giv51 b any numb] c be us$4 ,! cords f ! hooks #a to #bjj are tak5 ?r\gh ! back cumb] bo>d ,a1 & ^? f ! hooks #bja to #djj ?r\gh ! front cumb] bo>d ,b4 ,:5 ent]+ ! y>n1 "o ?read is tak5 f ! back w>p & drawn into ! fir/ mail ( ! back h>ness1 & ! next ?read is tak5 f ! face w>p & drawn ?r\gh ! fir/ mail ( ! front m\nt+4 ,n[1 9 ref]5ce to ! c>d-cutt+3 in/ead ( cutt+ two c>ds "o ! rev]se ( ! o!r1 "o half ( ! c>d mu/ be cut ! rev]se ( ! o!r half1 ! c>d-cutt] cutt+ ! col\r$ squ>es ( ! design 7#bjj *ecks7 on ! fir/ half ( ! c>d1 & go+ back aga9 & cutt+ ! blank squ>es on ! second half ( ! c>d2 or1 :5 !re is any v>iation 9 ! twill1 ! patt]n = ! face may be pa9t$ on #bjj *ecks1 & t = ! back on #bjj *ecks1 & :5 cut on ! c>d ! ?reads ( ! w>p w be rais$ 9 prop] ord] by ! m\nt+4 ,fig4 #aeg %[s ?is pr9ciple ( m\nt+ ) a /raight or ,norwi* tie1 = :i* x is n s suitable z = ! ,london tie 7,fig4 #aef7 on acc\nt ( ! cross+ ov] ( ! h>ness1 ?\gh x is n v objectionable if a n>r[ cumb] bo>d be us$4 ,in/ead ( hav+ two sep>ate cumb] bo>ds ) f\r or eight r[s 9 ea*1 "o broad bo>d ) eight or sixte5 r[s is bett] = ! ,norwi* tie2 !n let ! fir/ r[ ( ! back h>ness pass d[n ?r\gh ! back r[ ( ! cumb] bo>d1 & ! fir/ r[ ( ! front h>ness pass ?r\gh ! second r[ ( ! cumb] bo>d1 & s on1 ! back h>ness fill+ ! odd r[s & ! front ! ev5 r[s2 & :5 draw+ 9 ! y>n1 tak+ an end f ! back & face w>ps alt]nately & draw+ !m regul>ly ov] ! h>ness causes !m to fall correctly on _! respective m\nt+s4 ,in/ead ( divid+ ! c>d 9 ?is way & r$uc+ ! ma*9e to half its figur+ capacity1 a d\ble-cyl9d] ma*9e might be us$1 ! hooks f "o set ( ne$les be+ us$ = "o m\nt+1 & ^? f ! o!r set ( ne$les = ! o!r m\nt+2 !n cutt+ ! face patt]n on "o set ( c>ds & hang+ !m on "o cyl9d]1 & us+ a second set ( c>ds conta9+ ! back patt]n = ! o!r cyl9d]1 %\ld atta9 ! same results1 & give d\ble ! ext5t ( patt]n on ! same size ( ma*9e1 bo? griffes be+ rais$ & sunk toge!r1 & bo? cyl9d]s be+ also br\ght 9 & out toge!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aeg ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aeh ,a modification ( cutt+ ! back & face patt]n on its own half ( ! c>d is to be f\nd 9 ! d\ble-clo? quilt+ m\nt+ common ab\t ,paisley4 ,^! quilts are g5]ally ( a pla9 texture1 & ! figur+ is =m$ by pass+ "o clo? up & d[n ?r\gh ! o!r4 ,! ma*9e g5]ally us$ is an improvem5t on ! old ,fr5* draw loom1 & is %[n 9 ,fig4 #aeh z x is made1 pr9cipally ( wood1 = h& looms4 ,9 ?is sket* ! ne$les & cords 9 lieu ( hooks are n %[n1 b "o r[ ( !m is %[n 9 ,fig4 #aei ) only f\r hooks to ea* section in/ead ( eight4 ,h & ,k are ! two lift+ lev]s = rais+ ! griffes or trap-bo>ds ,a & ,a#a 7,fig4 #aei74 ,nos4 #a1 #b1 #c1 & #d1 & #a;a1 #b;a1 #c;a1 & #d;a are ! cords 9 lieu ( hooks to :i* ! h>ness is connect$4 ,a & ,a#a are two p]=at$ bo>ds ) ! slott$ holes ?r\gh :i* ! cords pass1 turn$ 9 ! rev]se direction 9 "o f :at !y are 9 ! o!r4 ,ea* ne$le is connect$ to two ( ^! cords--"o ?r\gh ea* hole-bo>d--& ! knots on ! cords above ! holes /& ov] ! slots or saw-cuts ( ! holes 9 ! bo>d ,a & ov] ! r\nd or op5 portion ( ! holes 9 ! bo>d ,a#a1 cle>ly %[n at ,f 7,fig4 #aei71 s t if ! lev] ,h 7,fig4 #aeh7 7 press$ d[n & ! bo>d ,a rais$ )\t any c>d act+ ^u ! ne$les1 all ! h>ness ti$ to ?is portion ( ! ma*9e w\ld be lift$1 & if ! bo>d ,a#a 7 rais$ by ! lev] ,k1 none ( ! h>ness ti$ to ?is portion ( ! ma*9e w\ld be lift$4 ,n[1 if a blank c>d 7 plac$ on ! cyl9d]1 ! rev]se ( ?is w\ld be ! case1 & any?+ betwe5 ^! two extremes c be got by cutt+ ! c>ds4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aei ,! cyl9d] is connect$ ) ! back griffe only1 & rema9s 9 = two %ots4 ,! griffe ,a is fir/ rais$1 & a %ot ?r[n 92 x is !n l[]$1 & ! griffe ,a#a rais$1 :i* presses out ! cyl9d] & *anges ! c>d2 a second %ot is ?r[n 91 & s on4 ,e & ,f 7,fig4 #aeh7 are two slide rods or sp9dles to /eady ! griffes or trap-bo>ds :5 ris+3 ,g & ,g#a are bottom hole-bo>ds to /eady ! cords2 ,l is a clap-bo>d = press+ back ! ne$les in/ead ( spr+s 7x is fa/5$ on spr+s ,i ,i1 :i* hold x out a little f ! ne$les1 & ^! spr+s are fa/5$ f ! top by cords to ! cyl9d] frame1 :i* slides out ) ! cyl9d]1 & draws 9 ! clap-bo>d1 press+ =w>d all ! ne$les74 ,n[ to m\nt ?is ma*9e = d\ble clo?4 ,suppose ea* frame to h #djj cords1 & t !re are #djj ne$les1 ! same z an ord9>y #djj-ma*9e4 ,let ! texture ( ! clo? be pla91 & to "w ?is #hj ne$les may be set (f1 leav+ #cbj = figur+4 ,^! #hj ne$les w be connect$ to #hj upright cords 9 ! trap-bo>d ,a1 & ! same 9 ,a#a4 ,! h>ness = ! face clo? is ti$ to ! rema9+ #cbj cords 9 ! trap-bo>d a1 & t = ! back clo? to ! #cbj cords 9 ! trap-bo>d ,a#a1 & ?is portion ( ! h>ness works ! figur+ only )\t ! texture4 ,! texture is wr\ght by ! #hj cords 9 ea* bo>d connect$ to ! fir/ #hj ne$les4 ,to ea* ( ^! upright cords a numb] ( h>ness tw9es are ti$1 "o ( :i* is fa/5$ to ea* tw9e ( ! h>ness f ! #cbj cords1 j above ! cumb] bo>d2 b 9 do+ s ! tw9es f ! #hj hooks on ! cords 9 ! trap-bo>d ,a mu/ be connect$ ) ! tw9es ( ! h>ness f ! trap-bo>d ,a#a1 & ! rev]se = ! o!r set4 ,9 ?is way all ! back h>ness c\ld be rais$ ) ei!r griffe1 & ! same ) ! front h>ness4 ,ei!r griffe c\ld raise "o w>p ) ! pla9 h>ness1 & ! o!r ) ! figur+ h>ness4 ,:5 cutt+ ! c>ds pla9 texture is cut on ea* c>d = ! fir/ #hj ne$les1 & ! figur+ portion )\t any texture is cut on ! rema9d] ( ! c>d4 ,! #hj cords op5 ! texture or pla9 %$1 & ! #cbj cords keep ! two w>ps 9 _! prop] places1 rais+ :at %\ld be above ! weft1 & leav+ d[n :at %\ld be bel[ x = ea* %ot accord+ to ! patt]n4 ,9 ^! m\nt+s ! c>ds hang ov] ! side ( ! loom4 ,! same me?od ( work+ c be appli$ to a jacqu>d ) upright hooks1 by hav+ ! heads ( ! hooks = ea* ma*9e or set turn$ 9 opposite directions1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #afj4 ,"o set ( hooks /& ) _! heads ov] ! knives 9 ! usual way1 z at ,a1 & ! o!rs require to be pu%$ back by ! c>d to br+ !m ov] ! knives1 z %[n at ,b1 s t pu%+ any ne$le back pu%es ! front hook connect$ ) x (f ! knife & ! back "o ov] ! knife4 ,! m\nt+ may be made up z be=e1 or a twill or any small] texture may be us$ in/ead ( pla92 or a diff]5t texture may be made on face & back clo?s4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #afj ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #afa ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #afb ,?is description ( clo? is mu* us$ = o!r makes ( goods z well z quilts4 ,kidd]m9/] or ,scot* c>pets are wov5 on ! same pr9ciple1 & curta9s1 cotton ve/+s1 c41 are frequ5tly wov5 ) ! same texture4 ,x c always be wov5 ) a full h>ness m\nt+ by prep>+ ! design to suit x4 ,fig4 #afa is a patt]n = a diagonal figure 9 pla9 texture = ?is class ( "w4 ,! black squ>es repres5t ! face w>p rais$ to ! face ( ! clo?1 & ! %ad$ squ>es repres5t ! back w>p rais$ to ! face also4 ,! blank squ>es repres5t weft on ! face ( ! clo?4 ,?is w\ld give a magnifi$ view ( ! face ( ! clo? if x 7 wov5 ) a black face w>p1 a grey back w>p1 & a :ite or light-col\r$ weft4 ,if ea* w>p _h a weft ( its own col\r ! effect w\ld be z %[n 9 ,fig4 #afb1 :i* w\ld be ! way ! patt]n w\ld be pa9t$ on ! design pap] if int5d$ = weav+ on looms specially m\nt$1 or ) special ma*9es z describ$2 b if a full h>ness is to be us$1 !n ! patt]n mu/ be spread ov] ! design pap] s z to give a l9e ( ! pap] = ea* ?read ( w>p & pick ( weft4 ,fig4 #afc is ! same patt]n arrang$ 9 ?is way4 ,! black & grey squ>es repres5t ! face & back w>p rais$ = ! patt]n4 ,! crosses %[ :]e ! back w>p is rais$ = ! texture ( ! back clo? at ! back ( ! face clo?1 & ! dots repres5t ! face w>p rais$ = ! texture :]e ! face clo? goes beh9d ! back clo?1 or :]e ! back clo? comes to ! face4 ,( c\rse1 on a clo? ( ?is k9d ! w>ps are alike1 face & back4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #afc ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #afd ,x w be und]/ood t1 :5 ! ?reads ( ! back clo? are be+ rais$ to =m a %$1 all ! face ?reads ( ! correspond+ portions mu/ also be rais$ to cle> !m out ( ! way ( ! %uttle1 & ! rais+ m>ks = ^! are ! %ort da%es on ! pa9t+4 ,fig4 #afd is ! same patt]n arrang$ = two ?reads face to "o ( back1 :i* admits ( a heavy back+ ) a f9e face1 & is suitable = quilts1 c4 ,! m>k+s are simil> to ^? 9 ,fig4 #afc1 b ! numb] ( ?reads is n su* z to admit ( ! pla9 texture repeat+ on ! back clo?4 ,x is !re=e brok5 r\nd ! edges ( ! figure :]e x w\ld lea/ %[4 ,in/ead ( hav+ ! extra h>ness = work+ ! pla9 texture z expla9$ 9 connection ) ! quilt h>ness1 ,fig4 #aei1 x might be done ) f\r leaves ( long-ey$ h$dles 9 front ( ! h>ness1 or by hav+ %afts ?r\gh loops 9 ! h>ness to act z h$dles1 or by hav+ ! cumb] bo>d divid$ into /rips = ea* r[ ( ! h>ness1 & knots on ! h>ness tw9es above !m1 s t rais+ any /rip w raise a r[ ( ! h>ness1 or ! ma*9e may act z a twill+ ma*9e to "w ! texture4 ,a ,m>seilles quilt is a d\ble clo? ) a f9e face & a co>se back1 bo? /it*$ toge!r r\nd ! edges ( ! patt]n1 & a wadd+ %ot ?r[n 9 betwe5 !m1 :i* causes ! patt]n to be emboss$ or to rise up full & ri*4 ,! face is usually a pla9 texture1 & ! back ! same2 b ! face has d\ble ! numb] ( ?reads 9 x t ! back has1 & ! y>n = ! face is proportionately f9] ?an t = ! back4 ,two picks ( f9e & two ( co>se weft are ?r[n 9 alt]nately--"o pick ( ! f9e goes into ! face clo? only1 & ! o!r1 also a face pick1 /it*es ! face to ! back4 ,"o ( ! co>se picks is ?r[n 9 betwe5 ! two fabrics1 & is call$ ! wadd+1 & ! o!r pick goes into ! back clo?4 ,9 ^! fabrics a v f9e effect c be produc$ by cov]+ ! gr\nd ) a small bird-eye patt]n1 /it*+ ! back & front closely toge!r1 !n hav+ a bold floral patt]n = ! figur+1 :i*1 be+ only b\nd r\nd ! edges ( ! patt]n & along ve9s1 c41 is comp>atively loose & produces a ri* emboss$ effect4 ,^! fabrics may be wov5 ) a twill$ z well z a pla9 gr\nd4 ,matelasses are a simil> description ( fabric1 b usually m ornam5t$1 ! face fabric be+ any fancy texture4 ,:5 us$ = ladies' jackets or mantles !y are made ( f9e wor/$ or silk = ! face1 ) p]haps a wooll5 back & a wooll5 or cotton wadd+4 ,! b9d+ ( ! face & back clo?s toge!r takes place r\nd ! edges ( ! figure1 & 9 any o!r portion1 su* z ve9s ( leaves1 c41 t may be ?\ght desirable4 ,! b9d+ may be effect$ ei!r by leav+ d[n a portion ( ! face w>p :5 ! back pick is be+ ?r[n 91 or by rais+ a portion ( ! back w>p :5 ! face pick is be+ ?r[n 91 ?is dep5d+ ^u ! patt]n & ! c\nts ( y>n us$4 ,! f9] ?reads %\ld be us$ = /it*+1 s z n to injure ! face by br++ any co>se ?reads ?r\gh to x4 ,if ! face ( ! clo? is a w>p patt]n x w be be/ to /it* by rais+ a back ?read ov] a face pick1 b if ! face is a weft patt]n !n s9k+ ! face w>p = ! back picks w probably be m satisfactory4 ,if ! clo? is made1 z is frequ5tly done1 ) a mohair or lu/re wor/$ w>p face ) a cotton weft1 & a cotton w>p back ) a wooll5 weft1 & a wooll5 wadd+1 !n ! b9d+ w\ld be effect$ by rais+ "s ( ! back w>p ?read ov] ! face picks4 ,"o pick 7wooll57 = wadd+ w\ld be ?r[n into a %$ =m$ by rais+ all ! face w>p2 ! next pick w\ld be = ! back1 ?r[n into a %$ =m$ by rais+ all ! face w>p & t portion ( ! back w>p requir$ to =m ! texture ( ! back clo?2 ! ?ird pick w\ld be = ! face1 ?r[n into a %$ =m$ by rais+ ! portion ( face w>p requir$ = ! patt]n1 z well z ^? ends ( ! back w>p t are to =m ! /it*+s4 ,quilt+s4--,a great v>iety ( ! *eap] description ( quilt+s1 toilet cov]s1 c41 consi/ ( a face clo? ) an additional ?ick weft4 ,?is ?ick weft is wov5 into ! gr\nd1 :i* may be a twill1 mat1 c41 b flu%$ loosely at ! back ( ! figure1 :i* is a pla9 texture4 ,sometimes !re is a small quantity ( ?9 w>p = b9d+ ! ?ick weft loosely at ! back ( ! figure1 mak+ a d\ble clo? 9 ?is portion1 b all work+ toge!r = ! gr\nd1 mak+ x a solid clo?4 ,( m rec5t orig9 are ! sat9 quilts made by ,messrs4 ,b>l[ & ,jones1 ( ,bolton1 & "s o!r firms4 ,!y consi/ ( two pla9 clo?s1 intimately b\nd toge!r2 "o clo? has a f9e w>p & a v co>se weft1 & ! o!r has a f9e weft & a co>s] w>p4 ,:5 b9d+1 ! f9e w>p is made to cat* on ! f9e weft1 & ! ?ick w>p & weft cov] ! b9d+s4 ,suppose ! f9e w>p to be :ite & ! ?ick] w>p to be blue1 & let ! w>p+ be two ?reads blue & "o :ite4 ,let ! :ite w>p be weft$ ) a ?ick twi/ weft--say f\r times z ?ick z ! w>p--& ?is co>se weft w =m ! figure4 ,let ! blue w>p be weft$ ) a blue weft p]haps d\ble ! c\nt ( its w>p1 & 9 b9d+ ?is weft cat*es on ! f9e :ite w>p4 ,! ?ick :ite weft1 :i* is fully d\ble ! ?ickness ( ! ?ick w>p1 effectually cov]s ! tie1 & :5 ! y>ns are prop]ly proportion$ ! patt]n /&s out1 produc+ a cle> /amp$ or emboss$ effect4 ,^! clo?s may be made ) a twill$ gr\nd1 & ei!r all :ite or :ite & col\r$4 ,!y are a good firm fabric & we> well1 b are liable to h a co>s] appe>ance aft] be+ wa%$4 7,see also ,t]ry-,pile ,quilts47 ,wooll5s & ,wor/$s4--,weav+ wooll5 & wor/$ clo?s 9 ! jacqu>d loom is m]ely an ext5sion ( ! patt]ns produc$ ) %aft m\nt+s1 or sometimes ! same patt]ns are wov5 on small jacqu>ds by ^? :o pref] ! jacqu>d to work+ a l>g] numb] ( healds :5 ! clo? is n s heavy z to require ! latt] to be us$1 healds z a rule mak+ a firm] & heavi] clo? ?an a jacqu>d w4 ,light wor/$ goods = dress fabrics1 c41 are figur$ l damask1 or z d\ble weft or d\ble w>p-fac$ clo?s1 or may be z d\ble clo?s4 ,curta9s & ,tape/ries4--,^!1 ?\gh sometimes ( damask1 are usually made on "s pr9ciple ( d\ble clo?1 z inde$ all clo?s mu/ be :5 a ri* brilliant effect ( col\rs is requir$4 ,"o ( ! simple/ me?ods ( mak+ ^! fabrics1 & :i* produces a v good effect1 is to employ a f9e b9d+ w>p ( twi/ cotton & produce ! patt]n on x ) two1 ?ree1 or m col\r$ wefts ( wor/$1 mohair1 or silk--say a spun silk gr\nd weft & a mohair or f9e wor/$ figure4 ,a small portion ( a diamond patt]n1 greatly r$uc$ = want ( space1 is giv5 9 ,fig4 #afe4 ,x is int5d$ = ?ree col\rs ( weft--"o = ! gr\nd & two = ! figure4 ,! gr\nd weft might be black or gold1 & ! figure wefts olive gre5 & dull r$1 or cl>et1 ! w>p to be black or a deep navy blue4 ,= ?is patt]n ?ree c>ds mu/ be cut f ea* l9e ( ! design pap]--"o = ! gr\nd weft & "o = ea* col\r ( ! figure4 ,! design is pa9t$ 9 v>i\s col\rs1 :i* are "h repres5t$ by diff]5t m>k+s on ! squ>es4 ,let ! black squ>es repres5t ! olive & ! dott$ squ>es ! r$ ( ! figure4 ,! :ite squ>es repres5t ! gr\nd weft1 & ! %ad$ squ>es on x are = b9d+ ! face weft d[n1 :ile ! crosses are = b9d+ up ! weft at ! back4 ,! cutt+ ( ! c>ds is z foll[s3--,= ! gr\nd %uttle cut all ! %ad$1 black1 & dott$ squ>es--t is1 ! %ad$ squ>es on ! gr\nd & all ! figure4 ,= ! fir/ figure %uttle 7olive7 cut all ! gr\nd except ! crosses 7t is1 ! :ite & %ad$ squ>es7 & ! dott$ squ>es ( ! figure4 ,= ! second figure %uttle 7r$7 cut all ! gr\nd except ! crosses1 z be=e1 & ! black squ>es ( ! figure4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #afe ,9 ?is example ! figure is s small z n to require b9d+ dots ov] x1 b = a l>ge figure ! gr\nd weft ?reads w\ld require to be b\nd up at ! back ( ! figure 9 ! same way t ! figure ?reads are b\nd up at ! back ( ! gr\nd 9 ! design giv54 ,! figure wefts might also require to be b\nd at bo? face & back4 ,on ! design ^! b9d+ m>ks w\ld be dott$ ov] ! figure 9 ! same way z !y are dott$ ov] ! gr\nd on ! design giv51 us+ any suitable texture t may be desir$4 ,to make ! cutt+ cle>1 five l9es ( ! patt]n 7,fig4 #afe7 are put ^u design pap] 9 ,fig4 #afe;,a1 z !y w\ld be cut on ! c>ds1 beg9n+ ) ! gr\nd weft1 olive & r$ foll[+1 9 all mak+ #ae l9es or #ae c>ds4 ,?is cutt+ w\ld make ! upp] side ( ! clo? 9 ! loom ! "r side or face2 b x may1 9 "s cases1 be desirable to weave ! clo? ) ! face d[n to avoid heavy lifts 9 ! h>ness4 ,?is patt]n w\ld suit = a w>p ( ab\t #ej ?reads ( w>p p] in*1 & say #fj to #hj %ots p] in* ( ea* col\r4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #afe;,a ,= ! conv5i5ce ( ! design] & c>d-cutt]1 a mu* bett] plan ( work+ ?is class ( fabric is to h an additional b9d+ w>p1 :i* may be 9 h$dles or 9 a front r[ ( ! h>ness4 ,?is w>p c "w pla9 twill or sat9 z requir$1 &1 be+ light & op5ly set1 c b9d ! back weft up & ! face weft d[n1 or ! face may be b\nd by ! w>p 9 ! h>ness & ! back b\nd by ! b9d+ weft2 b 9 ?is case !re %\ld be a f9e ?read ( weft ?r[n 9 e f\r? pick1 :i* %\ld pass ov] ! w>p 9 ! h>ness1 or a portion ( x1 & "u t 9 ! h$dles1 s z to b9d bo? w>ps toge!r4 ,9 ?is case ! twill+ dots on ! design are omitt$1 :i* simplifies ! cutt+ & design+ ( ! patt]n4 ,if ! face is to be twill$ ) ! h>ness w>p1 ! dots = b9d+ mu/1 ( c\rse1 be put on ! design1 or ! figure only may be twill$ on ! design1 & let ! gr\nd be b\nd by ! b9d]s4 ,%afts m\nt$ 9 ?is way may be wr\ght f tappets if ! loom is m\nt$ ) !m1 or may be wr\ght by /rong hooks at ea* side ( ! jacqu>d & sunk ) spr+s4 ,! pr9ciple ( work+ fabrics ( ?is description has be5 giv5 9 detail1 z f x _m o!r v>ieties c be wr\ght out1 & any numb] ( %uttles us$ to suit ! col\rs want$4 ,figur+ ) two w>ps & "o weft is a common me?od ( work+1 & gives ?ree col\rs on ! face ( ! clo?4 ,an extra w>p ( f9e y>n may be us$ = b9d+ ! wefts1 admitt+ ( ! col\r$ weft be+ m us$ = figur+4 ,extra w>ps _c be us$ to s great an ext5t z extra wefts1 z !y cr[d up ! re$ & prev5t prop] %$d+1 p>ticul>ly :5 s(t or hairy y>ns are us$2 b :5 prop]ly suit$ to ! re$ !y make a firm] & m regul> clo? ?an a weft clo?1 & on acc\nt ( less pick+ ! weav] gets ov] ! "w mu* fa/]4 ,two w>ps1 ea* hav+ its own weft1 are a good me?od ( figur+1 b unless = goods ) a l>ge numb] ( ?reads & picks p] in*1 s t f9e y>n c be us$1 x makes a heavy clo?4 ,two w>ps & two wefts1 all ( diff]5t col\rs1 ) a f9e b9d+ w>p 9 addition1 to admit ( ! col\rs ( ! wefts be+ kept comp>atively pure1 gives a /ill ri*] effect4 ,9 ?is case ! b9d+ w>p may be ( f9e black cotton1 ! two figure w>ps ( ?ick] cotton1 & two ?reads drawn into ea* mail2 ! col\rs may be1 say1 d>k blue & d>k citr9e1 or cle> sage4 ,! wefts are s(t wool or wor/$1 say light gold & deep dull r$4 ,9 ?is me?od ( weav+1 pure r$ & pure gold c be got f ! wefts1 z ! black b9d]s %[ b little4 ,pure blue & pure citr9e c be got 9 small quantities by float+ ! w>ps1 & an admixture ( ! w>ps & wefts c be got 9 any place desir$4 ,a v h&some curta9 fabric c be made z foll[s3--,!re are #abj to #adj ?reads ( w>p p] in*2 e second or e f\r? ?read ( ! w>p is us$ = b9d+ ! gr\nd1 :i* may be a pla9 texture or a ?ree-%aft twill4 ,! b9d]s may be an extra w>p1 wr\ght ) h$dles1 =m+ pla9 all ov] ! clo?1 or may be 9 ! h>ness & be portion ( ! ord9>y w>p work+ pla9 = ! gr\nd1 b ris+ to assi/ 9 =m+ ! figure1 :i* may be b\nd z desir$1 say #h-or #aj-;end sat94 ,! w>p is ( f9e silk y>n loosely twi/$1 & may be "o or m ply1 ( a ri* olive-gre5 or deep sc>let col\r4 ,!re are two wefts1 "o a ri* silk1 say a gold5 col\r1 ( twi/ y>n2 ! o!r is a back+ weft ( ! same col\r z ! w>p1 & ( cotton y>n1 ab\t ! same ?ickness z ! silk weft4 ,!re are f #ej to #fj ?reads ( weft p] in* ( ea* col\r4 ,! gold weft =ms ! gr\nd ( ! patt]n1 & ! w>p ! figure1 :i* is b\nd ) an #h-;end sat9 b9d+4 ,! cotton weft goes to ! back :5 ! silk weft is on ! face1 =m+ ! gr\nd ( ! patt]n1 ! w>p ly+ betwe5 !m2 b :5 ! w>p is on ! face = figur+1 ! gold weft goes to ! back & ! cotton weft lies "u ! w>p face1 b9d+ x & giv+ an emboss$ effect to ! figure4 ,! gold weft is b\nd up by s9k+ a portion ( ! w>p4 ,! gr\nd may be =m$ ) ! w>p1 & ! figure ) ! weft1 if desir$1 produc+ a sunk figure on a rais$ gr\nd2 b ?is is j a rev]sal ( ! process1 or mak+ ! gr\nd 9 ?is case z ! figure 9 ! previ\s case4 ,?is makes a light1 close1 & v ri* fabric4 ,figur$ ,popl9s are among ! ri*e/ description ( curta9 fabrics2 !y may be made ( all silk1 or silk & f9e wool1 ! latt] =m+ ! weft4 ,! gr\nd is a clean1 %>p cord runn+ across ! clo?1 & ! figure is =m$ by flu%+ ! w>p ov] ! cords1 b9d+ x ) a long twill or sat9 b9d+4 ,! weft may also be us$ = figur+2 b 9 ?is case x %\ld be a silk weft put 9 = ! purpose ( figur+4 ,two portions ( patt]ns ( good makes ( figur$ popl9s or repps are giv5 9 ,figs4 #aff & #afg4 ,fig4 #aff is w>p$ two ?reads ( ri* crimson silk & "o ?read ( ri* gold5 yell[ silk1 #ahj ?reads p] in*4 ,! weft is pick-&-pick1 #ej picks p] in*1 "o ?read a r\nd1 firm cord ( firmly twi/$ wor/$ ( ! same col\r z ! w>p1 & ! o!r yell[ silk1 ! same z ! w>p4 ,?is ?read passes ov] ! crimson w>p & "u ! yell[1 ! crimson cord rev]s+ ?is1 ?us produc+ a v f9e yell[ l9e betwe5 ea* pair ( cords4 ,! me?od ( =m+ ! figure c easily be se5 f ! patt]n4 ,in/ead ( a ?ick cord be+ put 9 = ! weft to =m ! rib1 sev]al f9e %ots c\ld be ?r[n 9 z "o1 z 9 repp figur+1 & ^! ?reads c\ld be br\ght out = figur+ z well z ! w>p2 b !y w\ld 9 ?is case require to be ( silk1 :i* w\ld make ! clo? v exp5sive4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aff ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #afg ,fig4 #afg makes a v ri* & h&some fabric4 ,x is w>p$ all a ri* purpli%-br[n silk1 #ahj ?reads p] in*4 ,!re are f\r weft picks 9 ! patt]n4 ,! fir/ is a cle> olive-gre5 silk ab\t d\ble ! ?ickness ( ! w>p silk1 ! second %ot is a r\nd1 firmly twi/$ wor/$ cord ( ! same col\r z ! w>p1 ! ?ird is ! same z ! fir/1 & ! f\r? is silk ( ! same col\r z ! w>p4 ,!re are #ajj picks p] in*1 b ! two gre5 silks g along ) ! cord to =m ! complete cord or ridge4 ,^! silk picks c be br\ght out to ! surface = figur+1 z %[n by ! %ad$ squ>es 9 ! patt]n1 :i* are n cut on ! c>ds4 ,! black squ>es are ! w>p figur+1 ! dots ! w>p rais$ = ! gr\nd1 & ! crosses ! w>p ( ! b9d+ ?reads rais$4 ,^! b9d+ ?reads rise ov] ! br[n silk pick1 & are simil> to ! yell[ w>p 9 ! previ\s patt]n4 ,= ri*] fabrics ?an ^! we mu/ g to pile "w1 :i* is1 p]haps1 ! mo/ exquisite production ( ! loom4 ,curta9s or hang+s c be made extremely ri* by figur+ a ri* cord$ silk gr\nd ) a pile ( diff]5t l5g?s & col\rs4 ,! long pile c be cut to =m a plu% or velvet pile1 & ! %ort] pile may be left uncut to =m a loop$ or t]ry pile4 ,by a judici\s arrangem5t ( col\rs & l5g? ( pile1 fabrics ( extreme beauty c be made 7see ,pile ,"w74 ,= curta9s ( a heavy description *5ille is mu* us$1 & makes a v ri*1 w>m-look+ fabric2 b x is too heavy & ( too co>se a nature = small rooms unless !y are v well light$4 ,x is v suitable = scre5s1 or curta9s divid+ two portions ( a room 7see ,*5ille74 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,tape/ry ,,& ,,pile ,,"w ,tape/ry4--,:at are g5]ally kn[n 9 trade z tape/ries1 are figur$ fabrics = curta9s1 hang+s1 c41 n damask1 :i* is di/9ct1 be+ wov5 ) only "o w>p & weft4 ,real tape/ry is a h&-made fabric ( v anci5t orig91 be+ 9 use s9ce ! days ( ! anci5t ,egyptians1 :o wove or work$ x 9 a mann] v simil> to t employ$ at ! pres5t "t4 ,x does n belong to #8jacqu>d weav+1' b be+ ! fir/ 9 po9t ( ! excell5ce ( its patt]ns among/ figur$ fabrics1 a %ort description ( x may n be out ( place4 ,h5ry ,,viii4 tri$ to e/abli% tape/ry weav+ 9 ?is c\ntry1 b fail$1 b ,james ,i4 _h a fl\ri%+ factory at ,mortlake4 ,tape/ry weav+ appe>s to h be5 introduc$ into ,france ab\t ! n9? c5tury4 ,! ,flemi% 7 celebrat$ = x f ! twelf? c5tury4 ,arras "w surpass$ all ! o!rs1 & tape/ry 0 commonly kn[n z arras "w4 ,! sixte5? c5tury gave a new impulse to ! trade 9 ,france4 ,francis ,i4 f\nd$ ! manufactory ( ,fonta9ebleau1 & ,h5ry ,,iv4 re-e/abli%$ tape/ry mak+ 9 ,p>is 9 ! ye>s #aeie to #afjf4 ,ab\t ! ye> #afff ,l\is ,,xiv4 b\ght ! ,gobel9s ,works 7:i* take _! "n f ! orig9al own]s1 a ri* family ( wool dy]s71 & e/abli%$ ! ,royal ,gobel9s ,tape/ry ,manufactory1 :i* is n[ "o ( ! sights ( ,p>is4 ,!re 7 two me?ods ( work+ tape/ries--"o kn[n z #8basse lisse1' or l[ w>p1 ! ?reads ( w>p be+ plac$ 9 a horizontal position 9 ! loom2 ! o!r 0 call$ #8haute lisse1' or high w>p1 z ! ?reads ( w>p 7 plac$ 9 an upright or v]tical position4 ,x is ! latt] me?od ( work+ t is n[ adopt$4 ,! loom consi/s ( an upright frame ( wood ( a size to suit ! clo? to be made4 ,!re is a /rong roll] at ! top1 :i* acts z a w>p beam1 & ano!r at ! bottom = ! clo? beam4 ,bo? ^! roll]s h rat*et :eels on "o end1 & are held ) pawls or cat*es s z to all[ ! w>p to be w\nd (f & ! clo? to be w\nd up :5 requir$1 & !n hold ! /ret* ( w>p /eady to be wov54 ,! w>p is co>se1 b a clean1 regul> ?read ( twi/1 cotton1 or l951 ab\t #ab to #ah ?reads p] in* 7m or less1 z desir$17 & ( su* a ?ickness t ! spaces betwe5 ! ?reads are some:at less ?an ! diamet] ( ! ?reads4 ,! weft is usually ( f9e wool b a fairly ?ick ?read1 say #d's or #f's wor/$4 ,?is is g5]ally us$ alone1 ( :atev] %ade ( col\r is requir$1 & !re is no end to ! %ades us$2 b 9 "s places1 to give brilliancy & ri*ness ( effect1 silk is us$ along ) ! wool1 & sometimes t9sel or gold cord4 ,^! are put 9 sep>ate ?reads along ) ! wooll5 or wor/$ weft4 ,! silk is mu* f9] ?an ! wor/$1 say ab\t equal to #ab's or #af's cotton1 &1 ( c\rse1 c be regulat$ to give ! effect requir$4 ,! gold is suffici5t to give sp>kle to ! portion x is employ$ 94 ,aft] leav+ ! w>p beam ! w>p is divid$ by two ?ick glass lease rods4 ,!n e alt]nate ?read1 ^? to ! front ( ! frame1 is drawn ?r\gh a d\p ( a half-leaf ( h$dles :i* is fix$ 9 a horizontal position above ! weav]'s head4 ,?is enables a pla9 %$ to be =m$1 z ! ?ick lease rod divides ! ?reads & =ms "o %$4 ,!n1 :5 ! weav]1 sitt+ at ! back ( ! loom1 draws back ! half-leaf ( h$dles1 all ! front ?reads or any portion ( !m c be drawn back pa/ ! back set1 & =m a cross %$4 ,z ! d\ps ( ! h$dles are long & /rong1 ! weav] c take any numb] ( !m he requires & draw ! front w>p back2 !n putt+ 8 f+]s into ! %$ ?us =m$1 cle> x d[n to ! fell ( ! clo? & ins]t 8 bobb94 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #afh ,! patt]n is pa9t$ on design pap]1 %ad$ 9 ! way x is to appe> on ! clo?1 & ! weav] mu/ h a bobb9 ( weft to suit ea* t9t or %ade ( col\r on ! design4 ,! outl9e ( ! patt]n is trac$ on ! w>p to guide ! weav]1 & ! pa9t$ patt]n is fa/5$ up ei!r be=e him or to "o side ( him1 s z to be conv5i5t to read ! /it*es (f x4 ,:5 ready = "w he looks at ! patt]n & f9ds p]haps #bj /it*es ( blue2 !n he selects a bobb9 ( ! correct %ade & passes x ?r\gh ! op5 %$ ( ! w>p r\nd #aj ?reads2 !n he draws ! #aj d\ps ( ! h$dles t are r\nd ! #aj ?reads int]m$iate ) & 9 front ( ^!1 pull+ !m back ?r\gh ! o!rs & =m+ a cross %$4 ,! same bobb9 is n[ pass$ ?r\gh ?is %$1 & ! weft press$ d[n ) a p9 or comb1 bo? ( :i* articles ! weav] uses = /raight5+ & beat+ up ! weft4 ,?is cov]s #bj ?reads ( w>p ) blue weft4 ,! texture ( ! clo? is pla9 ?r\gh\t1 ! weft be+ b5t r\nd ! w>p & press$ close toge!r1 =m+ a rib4 ,n[1 in/ead ( complet+ ?is weft l9e all along ! clo?1 z is usual 9 col\r$ weav+1 ! weav] goes on work+ ) ! bobb9 he has tak5 up1 foll[+ ! col\r+ on ! patt]n1 & may *ange 8 bobb9 :5 requir$ = a new %ade or col\r1 & g on work+ ?is portion = "s di/ance upw>ds1 & !n beg9 an adjo9+ portion & "w x up 9 ! same way4 ,?is w come all "r :5 ! outl9es ( ! portion he is work+ run obliquely2 b if !y %\ld run upright = any di/ance 9 ! same direction z ! w>p1 x is pla9 !re w\ld be two selvages com+ toge!r )\t any connection betwe5 ^! portions ( ! clo?1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #afh4 ,:5 ! patt]n runs 9 a diagonal direction1 ! weft ?reads pass+ across f "o w>p ?read to ! next "o make a suffici5t b9d+ or connect+ l9k betwe5 ! two col\rs1 z may be se5 at ! upp] portion ( ?is figure1 :i* w\ld be q suffici5tly connect$ :5 x is consid]$ t ! weft ?reads are press$ s closely toge!r z to entirely cov] ! w>p4 ,to rem$y ! objection ( a slit or division betwe5 ! two portions ( a patt]n 9 ! case ( a v]tical l9e1 x is cu/om>y to tack ! bobb9 ( "o col\r ( weft r\nd ! fir/ w>p ?read ( ! adjo9+ col\r1 at int]vals (1 say #c_/af 94 ,?is produces a too!d appe>ance1 b is n v rem>kable4 ,! only o!r rem$y w\ld be to l9k ! two wefts on ea* o!r occasionally4 ,9 _m ( ! old tape/ries x may be se5 t ?is 0 neglect$1 ev5 :5 ! di/ance 0 z mu* z #c 94 or #d 94 ,sometimes !y 7 /it*$ aft]w>ds 9 ^! places ) a ne$le & ?read4 ,:5 !re are _m long /raight l9es runn+ 9 "o direction1 z 9 ar*itectural subjects1 x is be/ to "w ! patt]n s t ^! w run 9 ! direction ( ! weft1 to avoid any jo9+ be+ requir$4 ,patt]ns c be wr\ght sideways or upright on ! clo? z desir$ to suit ! size1 subject1 c4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #afi ,z ! weav] sits at ! back ( 8 frame or loom :5 work+1 he has to come r\nd occasionally to exam9e ! face ( 8 "w4 ,sometimes he keeps a look+-glass 9 front to %[ him h[ he is gett+ on4 ,he has also a r\gh patt]n on ! back ( ! clo? simil> to t on ! front1 z ! nature ( ! weave mu/ give him ! same on bo? sides 7 x n = ! loose ends at ea* *ange ( bobb91 :i* h to be tack$ up at ! back4 ,tape/ry weav+ is a v t$i\s process ( work+1 b 9 skilful h&s v beautiful1 & arti/ic results c be produc$4 ,figur$ ,pile ,fabrics4--,:5 we come to pile "w we h a great scope = ! ornam5tation ( fabrics1 b ! nature ( ! "w is su* t x is only suit$ to heavy or mod]ately heavy clo?1 & a l>ge numb] ( ei!r ?reads or picks p] in* are requir$4 ,=m+ /ripes ( pla9 or figur$ pile alt]nately ) twill$ or figur$ /ripes c easily be accompli%$ ) ei!r a weft or w>p pile1 b :5 we come to figure indiscrim9ately ov] ! clo? !re is m tr\ble4 ,= a l5g? ( "t !re 0 a difficulty 9 cutt+ weft-pile figur$ fabrics1 z ! knife or cutt] w\ld n always ent] ! prop] #8race' r\nd ! edges ( ! figure1 & ! floats 7 cut irregul>ly4 ,?is has n[ be5 ov]come by arrang+ ! design to suit4 ,fig4 #afi is a common velvete5 design$ = a weft pile figure4 ,only a portion ( ! patt]n is giv51 b en\gh to %[ ! me?od ( arrang+ ! design4 ,x w be se5 t ! figur+ is produc$ by flu%+ ! weft on "o side ( ! clo?1 & = ! gr\nd x passes to ! o!r side4 ,! edges ( ! patt]n are mov$ across ! design pap] 9 /eps ( two1 & no flu% or float is less ?an ov] f\r ?reads4 ,9 addition to ?is ! figure %\ld be turn$ 9 ! c5tre on an odd numb] ( ends1 :i* 9 cutt+ keeps ! race end on ! inside ( ! /ep into :i* ! knife ent]s4 ,! knife is run up on all ! odd numb]s ( ends mov+ across 9 /eps ( two1 &1 leav+ no flu%es ( less ?an f\r1 gives x a bett] *ance ( ent]+ 9 ! prop] place along ! edges ( ! patt]n4 ,fig4 #agj is ano!r make ( velvet = a heavi] fabric1 ) #fj ?reads ( w>p p] in*1 & f #cej to #djj picks4 ,x makes a good firm clo?1 suitable = curta9s or furniture cov]+s4 ,! pr9ciple ( design+ is ! same z = ,fig4 #afi4 ,bo? ^! patt]ns are portions ( a diamond figure4 ,:5 ! figure is produc$ ) a w>p pile1 x is only necess>y to raise ! prop] w>p ?reads ) ! jacqu>d = ! ins]tion ( ea* wire1 b ! difficulty to cont5d ) is t !re w be an irregul> take-up ( ! w>p pile ?reads1 & ?is c only be rem$i$ by hav+ a numb] ( small w>p beams4 ,9 "s cases a sep>ate spool = ea* w>p ?read may be requir$1 :i*1 ( c\rse1 = a f9e velvet means a v intricate arrangem5t1 ?\gh x suits v well = pile c>pets4 ,diff]5t heights ( pile c be =m$ ?r\gh a patt]n 9 ?is way--say1 a %ort pile to be left loop$1 & a long] pile to be cut1 :i*1 9 suitable col\rs ( pile & gr\nd1 =ms a v beautiful ?\gh co/ly fabric4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #agj ,ano!r me?od ( w>p pile weav+1 m easily accompli%$1 is t kn[n z t]ry1 or ,turki% t[el weav+4 ,x is l>gely us$ = quilts1 toilet cov]s1 t[els1 c41 & any bold figure c be wov5 on x ) almo/ z mu* ease z on ord9>y damask "w4 ,!re are two me?ods ( =m+ figures on ! clo? 9 ?is /yle ( weav+1 "o by hav+ two col\rs ( pile w>p & *ang+ !m f "o side to ! o!r to =m ! figure or gr\nd--t is1 suppos+ ! "o pile w>p to be r$ & ! o!r :ite--pile w\ld be ?r[n up on bo? sides ( ! clo? at ! same "t2 on "o side ! figure w\ld be =m$ by ! r$ pile & ! gr\nd by ! :ite pile1 & ! o!r side w\ld be ! rev]se ( ?is4 ,fig4 #aga is a portion ( a patt]n ( ?is /yle4 ,! black squ>es repres5t1 say1 ! r$ w>p-=m+ loops on ! face ( ! clo?1 & ! %ad$ squ>es ! same = ! :ite w>p4 ,! crosses are ! gr\nd or b9d+ ?reads2 & ! dots repres5t ! pile ?reads ( ! col\rs !y are on1 rais$ to b9d ) ! weft1 :5 ^! ?reads are =m+ pile on ! und]side ( ! clo?4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aga ,! o!r me?od is to h only "o col\r ( pile w>p--9 fact1 to h only "o pile w>p1 x might be said1 in/ead ( two1 z 9 ! previ\s case4 ,! clo? consi/s ( a pile figure & a pla9 or solid gr\nd on "o side1 & ! rev]se ( ?is on ! o!r side4 ,! pile & gr\nd may be ( ! same col\r1 or ( diff]5t t9ts if desir$--say a ri* cream gr\nd & a :ite pile4 ,?is /yle ( work+ is v suitable = quilt+s1 toilet cov]s1 c4 ,fig4 #agb is a portion ( a patt]n = weav+ 9 ?is way4 ,! black squ>es repres5t ! pile-w>p rais$ to =m loops1 & ! r\nd dots are also pile-w>p rais$1 b only = b9d+ :5 ! loops are be+ =m$ at ! o!r side ( ! clo?4 ,! %ad$ squ>es %[ ! gr\nd w>p rais$ to =m ! body texture4 ,?is clo? has ab\t #fj ?reads ( w>p p] in*1 & ! same or a little m weft4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #agb ,figs4 #agc & #agd are two examples ( six-%ot pile clo? = quilts2 x is made ) #ej to #fj ?reads ( w>p p] in*1 & d\ble t quantity ( weft4 ,! same me?od ( m>k+ ! design pap] is us$ z t = #agb patt]n4 ,x w be se5 t 9 ,fig4 #agc ! loops or flu%es ( pile are ov] five & "u "o1 & 9 ,fig4 #agd !y are ov] two1 "u "o1 ov] "o1 & "u "o1 ?us mak+ a fa/ pile fabric1 :]eas ! floats ( five 9 ,fig4 #agc w\ld be r loose unless ! clo? is ov]-weft$4 ,bo? ^! piles may be us$ 9 ! "o clo?1 "o = ! face & ! o!r = ! back1 z is giv5 9 ! figures2 ! light portion ( ,fig4 #agc be+ ( ! same texture z ! d>k portion ( ,fig4 #agd4 ,"o patt]n may be tak5 z ! face ( ! clo? & ! o!r z ! back4 ,( c\rse !y may also be us$ sep>ately if desir$4 ,any full-h>ness m\nt+ t w suit ! patt]n w answ] = ^! fabrics1 ! loops be+ ?r[n up 9 ! usual way1 by leav+ a few %ots /&+ out f ! fell & !n knock+ all up1 draw+ =w>d ! pile w>p1 :i* is slack5$ at ?is beat1 b slid+ on ! gr\nd w>p1 :i* is held firm4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #agd ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #agc ,ano!r me?od ( =m+ figure pile is to weave a pla9 pile1 & :5 cut press or /amp a patt]n on x ) heat$ blocks cut to ! patt]n2 ! /&+ pile is !n %orn (f1 & aft]w>ds t :i* 0 press$ d[n is bru%$ up aga91 =m+ a full-pile figure on a %orn-pile gr\nd4 ,,*apt] ,x ,,c>pets ,! manufacture ( c>pets has be5 9 exi/5ce s9ce ! days ( ! anci5t ,egyptians1 :o made rugs & c>pets ( v>i\s k9ds & ornam5t$ !m ) animals & v>i\s devices4 ,! manufacture pass$ on to ! ,ea/1 & we f9d ,india1 ,turkey & ,p]sia celebrat$ = ! ri*ness ( _! c>pets 9 e>ly times4 ,! ,moors ( ,spa9 introduc$ ! ,ori5tal floor cov]+s into ,we/]n ,europe1 & ! ,belgians & ,fr5* took up ! manufacture & produc$ excell5t imitations ( !m4 ,ev5 9 ! ,middle ,ages c>pets 7 only us$ z a luxury by ! ri*4 ,que5 ,elizabe? _h a c>pet spread ^u ru%es1 :ile ,que5 ,m>y _h ru%es only4 ,^! ru%es 7 ! ,acorus ,calamus 7sweet re$ ( ,norfolk71 :i* 7 ! usual floor cov]+s d[n to ab\t ?is "t4 ,tape/ry weav+ 0 />t$ 9 ?is c\ntry 9 ! beg9n+ ( ! sev5te5? c5tury1 b ! fir/ we he> ( c>pet manufactur+ 9 ,engl& 0 at ,kidd]m9/] ab\t #agce1 ! c>pets !n made be+1 no d\bt1 ! ,kidd]m9/] or ,scot* c>pet4 ,! mak+ ( ,brussels c>pet 0 introduc$ ab\t #agej2 !y 7 fir/ made 9 ?is c\ntry at ,wilton1 ne> ,salisbury4 ,! ,axm9/] c>pets take _! "n f be+ fir/ made 9 ! t[n ( ,axm9/] ab\t #agee4 ,!y rivall$ ! "w ( ! ,ea/]n looms = beauty1 durability1 & col\r2 b ow+ to ! co/ ( _! manufacture1 & ! introduction ( ! *eap] ,brussels & pat5t tape/ry c>pets1 ! dem& became v small1 & ! "w 0 remov$ to ,wilton 9 #ahce4 ,! pat5t ,axm9/] or *5ille c>pet 0 br\ght out by ,messrs4 ,templeton1 ( ,glasg[1 9 #ahci4 ,9 ! e>ly ages c>pets or rugs 7 us$ = spread+ on ! floor or grass to l\nge ^u4 ,x is record$ t 9 ,babylon ! gue/s ( despotic sov]eigns l\ng$ on ri* c>pets1 & walk$ ov] priceless works ( textile art2 also h[ figur$ c>pets made ( ! f9e/ wool 7 /rew$ "u gold5 c\*es1 & rugs ri*ly embroid]$ ) figures 7 spread ov] das1 /ool1 & table4 ,! ,egyptian c>pets may h be5 tape/ries & embroid]$ fabrics4 ,!y also _h a me?od ( mak+ tuft$ c>pets by draw+ a portion ( ! weft ?reads out ( a piece ( co>se l95 & sew+ tufts ( col\r$ wor/$ to ! w>p ?reads1 en\gh ( ! weft be+ left 9 to b9d ! w>p ?reads toge!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #age ,p]sian & ,indian c>pets 7 made ( wool2 ! latt] 7 occasionally made ( silk1 & sometimes an inf]ior description ( c>pet 0 made ( cotton4 ,^!1 z well z ,turkey c>pets1 are made on a v simple loom consi/+ ( two po/s fitt$ at a suitable di/ance ap>t to =m a v]tical frame4 ,!re is a roll] at ! top & ano!r at ! bottom betwe5 :i* ! w>p ?reads are /ret*$1 mu* 9 ! same mann] z 9 tape/ry weav+4 ,! weav] sits 9 front ( ! loom ) a design be=e him1 & is provid$ ) a quantity ( bobb9s ( ! col\rs requir$ = ! patt]n2 he looks to ! design = ! col\r1 &1 tak+ a bobb9 ( ! col\r requir$1 =ms a loop r\nd two ( ! w>p ?reads ) ! weft1 cutt+ x (f z %[n 9 ,fig4 #age4 ,aft] hav+ complet$ a r[ along ! clo? =m+ "o weft l9e ( ! design1 he op5s a %$ & ins]ts a gr\nd %ot all across ! web1 ea* gr\nd %ot go+ into a %$ ! rev]se ( ! prec$+ "o1 =m+ a pla9 texture gr\nd ) a r[ ( tufts betwe5 ! gr\nd %ots4 ,! gr\nd %ots are beat5 d[n ) a comb4 ,in/ead ( go+ across 9 ev5 r[s ( tufts1 :]e !re is a pat* ( col\r sev]al r[s ( tufts may be put 9 at ?is place ) a gr\nd ?read betwe5 ! r[s1 leav+ ! ends ( ^! ?reads project+ s t !y c be c>ri$ across :5 ! rema9+ portions ( ! r[s are complet$4 ,! ends ( ! tufts are cut (f r\ghly at fir/1 & aft]w>ds %orn level ) a pair ( %e>s4 ,p]sian c>pets are sometimes v co/ly1 a small-siz$ c>pet1 :5 made ( f9e ca%m]e wool1 co/+ #ejjl4 or #fjjl4 ,axm9/] c>pets are made on ! same pr9ciple1 & o!r art c>pets are be+ made simil>ly4 ,!re are ab\t sixte5 or tw5ty w>p ?reads p] in* ( /rong cotton or l95 ?read2 ! weft is ( f9e wool1 ?ree or f\r ply be+ put into ea* tuft2 ! gr\nd weft is s(t hemp or flax1 eight ply ( y>n go+ to ea* %ot4 ,?is makes a full s(t clo?4 ,^! c>pets are ab\t ?ree-qu>t]s ( an in* ?ick1 &1 l tape/ries1 !re is no end to ! v>iety ( patt]n or col\r t c be introduc$4 ,kidd]m9/] or ,scot* ,c>pet4--,?is c>pet1 also call$ +ra9 c>pet1 is ! olde/ ma*9e-made c>pet 9 ?is c\ntry2 x 0 orig9ally made at ,kidd]m9/]1 b ! *ief c5tre n[ is ,scotl&4 ,orig9ally x 0 a two-ply clo?1 ! patt]n be+ =m$ by pass+ ! two clo?s1 :i* 7 ( diff]5t col\rs1 ?r\gh ea* o!r4 ,mr4 ,morton1 ( ,kilm>nock1 improv$ on ?is by mak+ x a ?ree-ply clo?1 :i* enabl$ x to be made a ?ick] clo? ) a ri*] patt]n4 ,x is n[ made bo? two-& ?ree-ply1 & :5 made ( all-wool is a ri* & durable article1 tak+ a position betwe5 ! jute & felt c>pets & ! tape/ry & ,brussels2 x is1 h[ev]1 sometimes made ) cotton w>ps & wooll5 wefts1 & is 9 ?is case an inf]ior article4 ,bo? two-& ?ree-ply c>pets may be wov5 ) only "o col\r ( weft1 9 :i* case ! patt]n is =m$ by ! w>p ?reads1 :i* mu/ be mu* ?ick] s z to close 9 ov] ! weft & hide x z mu* z possible2 on ! o!r h&1 !re may be two w>ps & f\r col\rs ( weft1 two ( :i* are ! same col\rs z ! w>p1 & 9 ?is case ! weft is mu* ?ick] ?an ! w>p4 ,! be/ ( ^! c>pets are made ) z _m col\rs ( weft z w>p1 z1 9 ord] to get a pure effect1 x is necess>y to h wefts trav]s+ w>ps ( _! own col\r2 b a v>iety ( effects c be produc$ by us+ additional col\rs 9 bo? w>p & weft4 ,"o advantage 9 ?is /yle ( c>pet is t x is rev]sible2 = :5 "o clo? rises to ! face ! o!r passes to ! back1 mak+ ! patt]n on bo? back & face alike1 b ( diff]5t col\rs4 ,?is is ! case :5 ! c>pet is two-ply clo? wov5 9 ! ord9>y way1 b sometimes ! back has to a c]ta9 ext5t to be sacrific$ to give m ornam5tation to ! face1 at lea/ 9 ! ord9>y me?od ( weav+4 ,:e!r wov5 two- or ?ree-ply1 ! pr9ciple ( work+ is ! same4 ,take a two-ply c>pet4 ,! fabric is a d\ble or two-ply pla9 clo?1 figur$ 9 ! usual way by pass+ ! two clo?s ?r\gh ea* o!r1 !re be+ no b9d+ betwe5 ! clo?s except :at is =m$ by ! "o pass+ ?r\gh4 ,! w>ps are ( diff]5t col\rs--z1 say1 sc>let & black1 gre5 & black1 c4--& ea* w>p %\ld h a weft ( its own col\r if pure effects 9 ! clo? are requir$4 ,usually f\r sets ( w>p ?reads are employ$ in/ead ( two--t is1 two col\rs1 end-&-end1 = ea* w>p--& ea* col\r ( w>p has its own col\r ( weft4 ,say we take r$ & black = ! face or figur+ w>p1 & :ite & olive = ! back or gr\nd w>p4 ,v>i\s effects c be produc$ f ?is arrangem5t--viz4 ! effect ( ! figur+ clo?1 =m$ by weav+ ! r$ & black w>ps & wefts toge!r1 :i* 9 pla9 texture ) "o weft w produce a ri* br[n effect2 ! gr\nd clo? produc$ by ! :ite & olive w>ps & ! weft w be ( a light olive col\r2 !n l9$1 or :at are kn[n z #8%ot-ab\t' effects c be produc$ by ?r[+ 9 a light & a d>k %ot alt]nately--z :ite & black1 olive & r$--& b9d+ !m on ! face by w>ps ( ! same col\r4 ,all ! weft on ! face ( ! clo? %\ld be b\nd by w>p ( its own col\r 9 ord] to give pure effects4 ,:5 a ?read ( "o clo? is rais$1 ! correspond+ ?read ( ! o!r clo? goes to ! back 7:ite & r$ & olive & black correspond 9 ?is case71 b ! r$ weft w be b\nd ) black w>p on ! "u side ( ! clo?1 & ! black weft w be b\nd ) r$ w>p1 & ! same ) ! o!rs1 z 9 ! sy/em ( work+ ! h>ness ) j\rnals to =m ! texture1 all ! black w>p is controll$ by "o ( ! j\rnals & mu/ all rise ) x4 ,!re=e :5 ! black %ot is be+ ?r[n 91 ! black w>p mu/ be rais$ to make ! patt]n correct on ! face ( ! clo?1 & ?is w also cause x to be rais$ = t portion ( ! clo? t goes to ! back1 & :5 ! black is up ! r$ is d[n2 !re=e ! black weft mu/ be b\nd by r$ w>p on ! "u side ( ! clo?1 & ! same ) ! o!r col\rs4 ,x is easy to und]/& t if an end-&-end w>p--black & r$--be wr\ght pla9 on two %afts or leaves ( h$dles1 & %ot pick & pick ( ! same col\rs1 :5 ! black weft is b\nd ) ! black w>p on "o side x mu/ be b\nd ) r$ 7:i* is ! o!r half ( ! w>p7 on ! o!r side1 & if ! r$ is b\nd ) r$ on "o side x mu/ also be b\nd ) black on ! rev]se side4 ,to apply ?is to ! d\ble clo? or c>pet weave x is only necess>y to consid] ?is piece ( clo? z pass+ up & d[n ?r\gh ano!r "o ( a diff]5t col\r4 ,_h we ! p[] ( rais+ any portion ( ! black or r$ w>ps requir$1 we c\ld b9d a portion ( ! black weft ) black on "o side1 & any o!r portion ( x ) black on ! o!r side2 to d ?is we require a full or ?read h>ness4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #agf ,a section ?r\gh ! weft ( a piece ( two-ply c>pet+ is giv5 9 ,fig4 #agf1 %[+ ! position ( ! ?reads :5 arrang$ to give ! diff]5t effects ( face clo? up z at ,a1 back clo? up z at ,b1 %ot-ab\t effect ( r$ & olive on ! face z at ,c1 & %ot-ab\t effect ( :ite & black on face z at ,d4 ,! w>p ?reads are m>k$ ,w1 ,o1 ,r1 ,b1 ! initial lett]s ( ! col\rs2 & ! numb]s #a to #cb give ! ord] ( pick+4 ,! %ot-ab\t effect is "h produc$ ) ! opposite ?reads--t is1 ! fir/ ?read ( "o w>p & ! second ?read ( ! o!r w>p--z :ite & black2 b x might be pref]r$ to produce ! effect ! correspond+ or mate ?reads 7:ite & r$1 or olive & black7 w\ld give4 ,9 work+ ) j\rnals1 two picks face & two picks back w\ld be requir$ to obta9 ?is1 & ! ne$les ( ! jacqu>ds w\ld require to be act$ ^u by ! c>ds = ea* %ot1 ?us requir+ d\ble ! numb] ( c>ds4 ,) a full h>ness any effect desir$ c be produc$4 ,extra col\rs ( weft may also be us$ 7z drab7 9 addition to ! :ite & olive--to "w1 say1 :ite1 olive1 drab1 olive1 c42 & d>k gre5 or blue 9 addition to ! r$ & black1 :i* w\ld come 9 z r$1 gre51 black1 gre51 c41 a %ot ( ! light & "o ( ! d>k col\rs foll[+ ea* o!r 9 succession4 ,/ripes ( a bright col\r may be introduc$ into ! w>p or weft & kept 9 ! back clo?1 only be+ br\ght to ! face 9 small portions1 at int]vals1 to sp>kle up ! c5tres ( fl[]s1 c4 ,+ra9 c>pets are made #cf 94 wide1 & )1 say1 #hcb or #ajhh ?reads ( w>p1 accord+ to quality4 ,! =m] c be wov5 on a #bjj jacqu>d 7say #bjhdaf71 z ! ma*9e is d\ble2 & z !re are two repeats ( ! patt]n 9 ! wid? ( ! clo?1 #daf #b #hcb ?reads ( w>p4 ,= ! latt] #bgb ne$les are requir$ #edd #b #ajhh hooks4 ,:5 wov5 ) j\rnals1 ! jacqu>ds us$ = figur+ ^! c>pets are simil> to ^? expla9$ "u #8,quilt ,weav+'--t is1 d\ble ma*9es ) trapbo>ds & knot cords2 & :5 ! c>d is press$ aga9/ ! ne$les x is held 9 = two %ots1 "o trapbo>d rais+ ! h>ness = ! fir/ %ot1 & ! o!r rev]s+ ! %$ = ! second %ot4 ,! j\rnals are f\r sections ( ! cumb] bo>d1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #agg2 ea* section conta9s two r[s ( ! h>ness & "o col\r ( w>p4 ,no4 #a j\rnal controls ! :ite w>p1 ,no4 #b ! olive1 ,no4 #c ! r$1 & ,no4 #d ! black2 ! draft is %[n by ! numb]s #a to #h alongside ! h>ness cords4 ,^! eight cords only repres5t half a r[ f ea* ma*9e1 z !re are eight r[s ( hooks to ! ma*9e4 ,"o r[ ( ! two ma*9es fills two r[s across ! j\rnals1 or #af holes4 ,a repres5ts ! trapbo>d ( ! ma*9e = ! gr\nd or d>k w>p1 & ,b t ( ! ma*9e = ! figur+ or light w>p4 ,! h>ness tw9es are furni%$ ) l>ge knots above ! cumb] bo>d or j\rnals1 s t :5 "o ( ! j\rnals is rais$ ! h>ness w be lift$ ) x4 ,! j\rnals may be rais$ by /rong cords or wires f ! ma*9e1 or by a tappet or %$d+ motion work+ ei!r above or bel[ !m4 ,if ! ma*9e is divid$ into two p>ts1 f\r hooks 9 succession go+ to ea* col\r ( w>p = ea* clo?1 ! cords f ^! f\r hooks mak+ two r[s ( ! j\rnal1 !re w be no cross+ ( ! h>ness 9 a /raight or ,norwi* tie4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #agg ,! ord] ( work+ = ! section ,fig4 #agf w\ld be z foll[s3--,= ! fir/ pick1 :i* is :ite1 raise ! trapbo>d ,b & ! fir/ j\rnal2 = ! second pick1 :i* is r$1 raise ! trapbo>d ,a & ! ?ird j\rnal2 = ! ?ird pick1 raise ! trapbo>d ,b & ! second j\rnal2 = ! f\r? pick1 raise ! trapbo>d ,a & ! f\r? j\rnal4 ,?is is ! g5]al ord] ( lift+ = a patt]n2 b a simple l9$ effect across ! clo? z ! section c\ld be wr\ght ) ! j\rnals )\t ! ma*9e1 us+ !m z h$dle %afts4 ,x c\ld also be wr\ght by ! ma*9e )\t ! j\rnals4 ,! use ( ! j\rnals 9 conjunction ) ! ma*9e is to pass ! clo?s ?r\gh ea* o!r & make a patt]n4 ,= figure "w1 :5 a c>d is press$ 9 aga9/ ! ne$les1 all ! w>p = ! figure on ! design pap] is rais$ by ! trapbo>d ,b1 :i* cle>s ?is portion ( ! r$ & black w>ps out ( ! way ( ! gr\nd %$2 & z ! fir/ pick ( ! gr\nd is :ite1 ! :ite j\rnal is rais$ to b9d ! :ite pick1 leav+ ! olive w>p d[n to b9d x at ! back4 ,= ! next %ot ! same c>d acts1 & ! trapbo>d ,a is rais$1 :i* lifts all ! :ite & olive w>p correspond+ ) ! portion ( ! r$ & black t 0 left d[n at ! la/ %ot1 s z to cle> ?is portion out ( ! way ( ! face %$4 ,z a r$ pick foll[s :ite1 ! r$ j\rnal 7,no4 #c7 is rais$ to b9d ! r$ on ! face1 leav+ ! black w>p d[n to b9d x on ! back4 ,! o!r picks foll[ simil>ly4 ,?is %[s ! defective b9d+ common to j\rnal weav+1 ! :ite be+ b\nd ) olive & ! r$ ) black at ! "u side ( ! clo?4 ,to h pure b9d+1 in/ead ( all ! :ite or r$ be+ rais$ by a j\rnal z above1 only z mu* ( ei!r %\ld be rais$ z is requir$ to b9d its own col\r ( weft on ! face ( ! clo?4 ,! olive or black 9 respective cases %\ld be rais$ = ! rema9d] ( ! %$1 leav+ ! :ite & r$ d[n to b9d _! own wefts :]e ^! col\rs come out on ! back or "u side ( ! clo?1 ?us giv+ pure col\rs on bo? sides ( ! clo?1 & lett+ ! mix$ or impure b9d+ be 9 ! c5tre betwe5 ! two clo?s4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 is beyond ! range ( j\rnals1 & requires a h>ness4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #agh ,fig4 #agh gives a neat patt]n on a small scale = a two-ply clo? )1 say1 a r$ & a pale olive w>p = gr\nd & figure clo?s respectively1 ! %ad$ squ>es be+ r$ & ! gr\nd or :ite squ>es olive2 ! weft = ea* clo? to be ! same col\r z ! w>p1 or sometimes a t9t "o or two %ades light] & bright]1 or deep] & dull]1 accord+ to ! col\rs or %ades ( col\rs us$1 gives a good effect4 ,a fur!r effect 9 ?is c be produc$ by hav+ ! #f? to #aj? & #ah? to #bbnd ?reads black1 br[n1 or d>k gre51 end-&-end ) pale olive1 = ! back w>p1 & pick+ simil>ly on ! #e? to ! #i? picks = ! gr\nd clo?4 ,?is w\ld1 ( c\rse1 make a /rip$ effect on ! "u side ( ! clo?1 z :]e ! additional col\rs d n %[ above !y mu/ appe> bel[4 ,a /ill bett] effect c be produc$ by hav+ an additional weft ly+ betwe5 ! two clo?s :i* c be flu%$ on ! face 9 spots z at picks #ab1 #ac1 & #ad1 & ( c\rse a ?ree-ply clo? w be a /ep f>!r 9 advance2 l9$ effects c !n be produc$ any:]e desirable1 9 portions to suit ! nature ( ! design1 to v>y & enri* x1 at ! same "t ! bread? ( effect is ma9ta9$ by work+ ! great] portion ( ! patt]n 9 masses ( pure col\r1 :e!r !y be l>ge or small4 ,= full-h>ness "w ! h>ness is divid$ into two sections1 f\r r[s = ! back clo? & f\r r[s = ! face clo?1 on an #h-r[ ma*9e2 no j\rnals are us$1 ! ma*9e do+ all ! "w4 ,! h>ness is ti$ up 9 ! usual way1 ! cord f ! fir/ hook pass+ ?r\gh ! fir/ hole ( ! cumb] bo>d1 & ! cord f ! second hook pass+ ?r\gh ! second hole1 & s on4 ,! h>ness is nom9ally divid$ into two sections1 ! front f\r r[s be+ = ! face clo? & ! back f\r = ! back clo?2 :5 draw+ ! w>p into ! h>ness ! mails are tak5 9 ! foll[+ ord]3 #a1 #e1 #b1 #f1 #c1 #g1 #d1 #h1 ! back or gr\nd w>p com+ on #a1 #b1 #c1 #d mails1 & ! face or figure w>p on #e1 #f1 #g1 #h4 ,suppose ! patt]n to be a dice1 z ,fig4 #agi1 ! w>ps to be :ite & olive1 & r$ & black1 ) ! same col\rs ( weft4 ,ea* upright l9e ( ! design repres5ts two ?reads ( w>p1 "o ( :i* w be drawn on ! front half ( ! h>ness & ! o!r on ! back half2 & ea* horizontal l9e ( ! design repres5ts two weft %ots1 = :i* !re mu/ be two c>ds cut4 ,let ! ord] ( draw+ ! w>p into ! h>ness be z ,fig4 #ahj4 ,! :ite is on ! odd & ! olive on ! ev5 numb]s ( ! f\r back r[s ( ! h>ness1 & ! r$ is on ! odd & ! black on ! ev5 numb]s ( ! f\r front r[s4 ,n[ to cut ! c>ds3--,take ! fir/ l9e ( ! design ,fig4 #agi1 cut ! odd numb]s ( holes 7t is1 ! fir/ & ?ird7 on ! fir/ half1 or fir/ f\r holes1 ( ! c>d1 & cut ! :ite & olive on ! second half ( ! c>d4 ,= ! second c>d1 f ! same l9e ( ! design cut r$ & black on ! fir/ half ( ! c>d1 & ! odd numb]s ( holes on ! second half ( ! c>d4 ,= ! ?ird c>d1 take ! second l9e ( ! design & cut ev5 numb]s ( holes on ! fir/ half ( ! c>d1 & :ite & olive on ! second half ( ! c>d4 ,= ! f\r? c>d1 f ! second l9e ( ! design cut r$ & black on ! fir/ half ( ! c>d1 & ! ev5 numb]s ( holes on ! second half ( ! c>d4 ,( c\rse :5 !re is none ( a col\r rais$1 z 9 ! fir/ l9e !re is no black1 no notice is tak5 ( x4 ,= ! patt]n 9 ,fig4 #agh ! cutt+ w\ld be ! same1 except t !re are only two col\rs ( w>p to be dealt ) in/ead ( f\r4 ,no4 #a c>d3 cut odd numb]s ( holes on ! fir/ half ( ! c>d1 & olive on ! second half ( ! c>d4 ,no4 #b3 cut r$ on ! fir/ half ( ! c>d1 & odd numb]s ( holes on ! second half ( ! c>d1 c4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #agi ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ahj ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aha ,! cutt+ ( f\r c>ds is giv5 is ,fig4 #aha4 ,! crosses indicate ! cutt+ ( ! odd & ev5 holes 9 ! c>ds1 & ! dots are ! figure4 ,x w be se5 t ! crosses 9 ,no4 #c c>d w\ld rev]se ! %$ =m$ by ^? 9 ,no4 #a c>d1 ?us work+ pla9 texture on ! back clo?1 & ! same w\ld take place ) ,nos4 #b & #d c>ds = ! face clo?4 ,?is is simply ! action ( ! j\rnals includ$ 9 ! h>ness1 :i* x w be se5 requires d\ble ! numb] ( ne$les 9 ! ma*9e1 & d\ble ! quantity ( c>ds2 b an ord9>y ma*9e & m\nt+ w answ]1 in/ead ( hav+ to get a d\ble ma*9e & j\rnals4 ,! above cutt+ acts ! same z j\rnals1 & is all "r 9 bo? cases :5 "o w>p ) its own weft is us$ = ea* clo?2 b x has be5 po9t$ out t :5 ea* w>p is end-&-end ( diff]5t col\rs ) wefts to mat*1 ! "u side ( ! clo? is defective :5 wr\ght ) j\rnals1 & s x w\ld be ) ! full h>ness if ! c>ds 7 cut z above4 ,to get ea* col\r ( weft b\nd ) its own col\r ( w>p on bo? sides ( ! clo?1 ! foll[+ *ange mu/ be made3--,take ! small piece ( patt]n giv5 9 ,fig4 #ahb1 & let ! w>ps be z be=e--:ite & olive1 r$ & black4 ,! c>d cutt+ = ?is patt]n w be z foll[s1 ! w>p be+ drawn ?r\gh ! h>ness z be=e3 ,= ! fir/ c>d1 cut odd numb]s ( r$ & ev5 numb]s ( :ite on ! fir/ half1 or fir/ f\r holes1 ( ! c>d1 & :ite solid on ! second half4 ,?is w =m a %$ = ! r$ %ot4 ,second c>d3 ,cut f same l9e ( ! design r$ solid on ! fir/ half ( ! c>d1 & ev5 numb]s ( :ite & odd numb]s ( r$ on ! second half ( ! c>d4 ,?is is = ! :ite %ot4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ahb ,?ird c>d1 = black %ot3 ,cut f ! second l9e ( ! design ev5 numb]s ( black & odd numb]s ( olive on ! fir/ half ( ! c>d1 & olive solid on ! second half ( ! c>d4 ,f\r? c>d1 = olive %ot3 ,f ! same l9e cut black solid on ! fir/ half1 & odd numb]s ( olive & ev5 numb]s ( black on ! second half ( ! c>d4 ,^! f\r c>ds are %[n 9 ,fig4 #ahb1 f :i* ! cutt+ may be trac$4 ,x mu/ n be suppos$1 h[ev]1 t cutt+ odd numb]s ( r$ & ev5 numb]s ( :ite z on ! fir/ c>d1 means t ^! col\rs ( ?reads are to be rais$2 ! col\r has no ref]5ce to ! ?reads--only to ! col\r$ *ecks on ! design pap]4 ,= ! fir/ c>d ! :ite *ecks on ! design pap] are cut solid on ! second half ( ! c>d2 ?is raises ! :ite & olive w>p correspond+ to ! :ite portion ( ! design4 ,!n1 to =m ! pla9 %$ 9 ! o!r w>p1 ! ev5 numb]s ( ! :ite *ecks & ! odd numb]s ( ! r$ *ecks are cut on ! fir/ half ( ! c>d1 :i* acts on ! o!r w>p4 ,z ! black w>p is drawn on ! ev5 numb]s ( h>ness tw9es x w be rais$ = t portion ( ! design t is :ite1 & ! r$ w rema9 d[n to b9d ! r$ weft2 b pass+ along ! design till ! r$ weft is above1 x w be se5 t ! r$ w>p %\ld "h be up to b9d x1 & ! black %\ld !re=e be d[n1 s1 z ! r$ w>p is on ! odd numb]s ( ! h>ness & on ! second half ( ! c>d1 ! odd numb]s mu/ be cut on ! c>d = ! r$ portion ( ! design4 ,?is gives a pure b9d+ on bo? sides3 & ! same applies to ! o!r col\rs4 ,x w be se5 t ! fir/ halves ( ! #a/ & #crd c>ds toge!r "w a brok5 pla9 texture1 & ! second halves ( ! #bnd & #d? c>ds d ! same4 ,9 case ! c>d-cutt] _c foll[ ?is me?od ( cutt+1 & if ! design is s v>i$ 9 ord] ( weav+ t a gamut or index = cutt+ _c be arrang$1 !n x w be necess>y to pa9t ! full texture ( ! patt]n on ! design pap] 9 ! same mann] z is done = d\ble clo?4 ,! fir/ r[ ( designs ( ! patt]n giv5 9 ,fig4 #agh is pa9t$ out 9 full 9 ,fig4 #ahc4 ,! %ad$ l9es und]nea? repres5t ! back w>p1 & ! :ite l9es ! face w>p4 ,! black squ>es are ! figure1 & ! l>ge crosses ! gr\nd1 or ! :ite squ>es 9 ,fig4 #agh4 ,! dots are ! ris+ m>ks = ! texture ( ! back clo?1 z w\ld be =m$ by ! back w>p j\rnals1 & ! small crosses are ! same = ! face w>p4 ,?is me?od ( weav+ is n conf9$ to c>pets1 b is equally applicable to quilts1 curta9s1 c41 & a pla9 texture ne$ n be adh]$ to2 a twill or any simple fancy texture may be us$4 ,) #hj to a #ajj ?reads p] in*1 "o w>p peacock gre5 9 sat9 texture = ! figure1 & ! o!r w>p gold = ! gr\nd 9 a crpe or mottl$ texture1 all %ot peacock1 a h&some curta9 c be made4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ahc ,brussels ,c>pets4--,brussels c>pets1 ) _! less exp5sive allies1 ! tape/ries1 are ! commone/ ( ! bett] class ( c>pets4 ,!y are a loop-pile fabric1 ! pile be+ =m$ by ! figur+ w>p1 :i* is wool1 ! gr\nd w>p & weft be+ hemp or flax4 ,z ! patt]n is =m$ by rais+ ! figur+ w>p ?reads ( ! requir$ col\rs1 & z any ?read ( any col\r may require to be rais$1 x foll[s t all ! ?reads mu/ be on sep>ate spools or small w>p rolls1 s t any "o ?read c be drawn =w>d )\t slack5+ any ( ! o!rs4 ,l>ge frames are !re=e made to hold ! numb] ( spools ( ea* col\r1 & ^! are plac$ "o above ! o!r 9 a slant+ position1 at ! back ( ! loom1 & :5 fill$ ) spools ! :ole set ( ?reads are br\ght =w>d to ! h>ness z if f a w>p+ creel or bank4 ,accord+ to ! numb] ( ^! frames us$ ! c>pet is /yl$ a #c1 #d1 or #e-;frame c>pet1 ! great] ! numb] ( frames ! ri*] ! c>pet bo? 9 col\r 7g5]ally speak+7 & 9 body ( w>p4 ,sometimes #f frames are us$2 b #d or #e are m frequ5t1 #c & #d frame be+ ! l[] qualities4 ,! texture ( a ,brussels c>pet is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ahd1 :i* is a section ?r\gh ! weft4 ,a & ,b are two ( ! gr\nd w>p ?reads1 a pair ( ^! com+ betwe5 ! r[s ( pile loops1 a portion ( "o r[ be+ %[n 9 ! section4 ,! weft ?reads are %[n 9 section com+ "u ! loops ( ! gr\nd w>p at ! top1 & above !m bel[4 ,bo? ?is w>p & weft are ( co>se hemp1 ab\t #c's3 ! weft is /eep$ 9 glue size be=e be+ ?r[n into ! clo?1 :i* makes x /iff & firm :5 dry4 ,! pile w>p ?reads are numb]$1 #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 & #e2 !y are ( s(t-spun wor/$1 ab\t #b_/bd's1 #b & sometimes #c ?reads be+ drawn 9 toge!r z "o ?r\gh ! mails & re$4 ,^! five w>p ?reads g to =m "o l9e ( loops1 be+ rais$ ov] ! wires z is requir$ = ! patt]n1 & ly+ /raight betwe5 ! weft ?reads :5 n rais$4 ,by consid]+ ?is x w easily be und]/ood t ea* ?read mu/ be on a sep>ate bobb9 s z to admit ( be+ drawn =w>d indep5d5tly ( any ( ! o!rs4 ,9 l[ qualities ( ^! c>pets "o or two ?reads ( hemp w>p are us$ to ea* splitful or r[ ( pile ?reads2 ! hemp ?read lies 9 a /raight l9e bel[ ! wor/$ ?reads 9 ! same way t ,no4 #e ?read is %[n 9 ! section4 ,^! /uff+ ?reads add to ! weight & ?ickness :5 ! wor/$ is r$uc$ 9 quantity1 b make a h>%] & /iff] c>pet4 ,?is w>p1 :5 us$1 is put on a beam or w>p roll1 z is also ! gr\nd w>p ( ! c>pet4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ahd ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ahe ,fig4 #ahe is ! plan ( draw+-9 & weav+ a c>pet simil> to t %[n 9 section 9 ,fig4 #ahd4 ,! draft is giv5 at ,a1 & ! tread+ & cord+ = a h& loom at ,b4 ,a #aj-r[ jacqu>d %\ld be us$ = a #e-;frame c>pet1 z twice ov] ! #e ?reads makes "o r[ ( ! cumb] bo>d4 ,five ?reads are drawn into ! h>ness1 "o f ea* frame1 !n two gr\nd w>p ?reads are br\ght ?r\gh & drawn on two leaves ( h$dles4 ,9 weav+1 "o gr\nd ?read is rais$ & a %ot ?r[n 92 !n all ! pile w>p & ! same gr\nd ?read are rais$ = ! next %ot2 ! ?ird tread raises ! h>ness & a wire is ins]t$ to draw up ! pile2 ! f\r? tread crosses ! gr\nd w>p ?reads2 ! fif? tread raises ?is ?read aga91 z well z all ! pile w>p1 & ! six? tread raises ! h>ness = ! ins]tion ( ! second wire2 ?is completes1 ! ord] ( tread+4 ,= ! second & fif? treads x w be obs]v$ t all ! w>p 9 ! h>ness mu/ be rais$2 ?is 0 usually done by hav+ %afts ?r\gh ! h>ness or by rais+ ! cumb] bo>d to act z a j\rnal 9 ! mann] expla9$ = ,scot* c>pet weav+2 b n[ jacqu>ds are made ) bottom bo>ds or grat+s t c be rais$ or l[]$ to =m ^! %$s4 ,! pile wires are n[ commonly ins]t$ at ! "t ! adjo9+ pick is be+ ?r[n 91 a d\ble %$ be+ =m$1 & bo? ! wire & %uttle pass$ across at ! same "t1 ! =m] be+ upp]mo/2 9 p[] looms ! wires are bo? ins]t$ & )drawn by ma*9]y2 ab\t tw5ty-five are ins]t$ be=e any are drawn out1 to prev5t ! loops f slipp+4 ,jacqu>d ma*9es are made specially = ! purpose ( =m+ ?is d\ble %$1 ! grat+ rais+ ! hooks f ! bottom to ! c5tre position1 ?us rais+ ! wor/$ or figur+ w>p above ! %uttle1 :ile ! griffe c>ries ! figur+ hooks on to ! top1 mak+ a second or upp] %$ = ! wire4 ,! old me?od 0 to =m ! l[] %$ by rais+ ! cumb] bo>d1 & ! upp] "o by ! griffe4 ,jacqu>ds ) cords in/ead ( hooks are frequ5tly us$4 ,brussels c>pets are made #bg 94 wide1 ) nom9ally #bfj loops or r[s ( pile 9 ! wid?2 b #bef r[s are commonly us$ in/ead ( #bfj = ! bett] classes ( goods1 & a fur!r r$uction ( #cj or #dj loops is made = l[] classes1 ! r$uction go+ to *eap5 ! goods or to ! cr$it ( ! manufactur]4 ,al?\gh only #bef loops are on ! surface ( ! clo?1 x mu/ be rememb]$ t = a #e-;frame c>pet !re are #e times ?is numb] ( ?reads1 & t #a1bhj cords w be requir$ = ! h>ness1 & an equal numb] ( ne$les 9 ! jacqu>d :5 ! patt]n is s+le1 or n repeat$ on ! clo?2 b ! design only cov]s #bef spaces on ! po9t pap]1 ea* space or *eck across x repres5t+ #e ?reads4 ,9 ,scotl& a re$ ) #cej splits on #cg 94 is us$1 "o r[ ( pile w>p ) its gr\nd w>p go+ into ea* split4 ,a c>pet kn[n z ,axm9/] ,brussels is made 9 ,scotl&4 ,x is simil> 9 /ructure to ! common ,brussels1 b has 9 addition a wooll5 weft1 :i* is ?r[n 9 pick-&-pick ) ! usual hemp weft4 ,! addition ( ! wool weft adds to ! s(tness & ?ickness ( ! c>pet1 giv+ m ela/icity or spr+ to x1 & mak+ x we> bett]4 ,designs = ,brussels c>pets are sket*$ out & col\r$ 9 ! usual way2 ! me?od ( repeat+ ! patt]ns is mu* ! same z is adopt$ = wall pap]s4 ,usually !re is "o repeat 9 ! wid? ( ! clo? 7#bg 9471 & ! l5g? ( ! repeat may be %ort] or long] to suit ! patt]n1 exp5se1 c42 #bef *ecks1 #c_/d?s ( a y>d1 is a common l5g?1 & #a-a_/b y>d = bold] effects4 ,! numb] ( col\rs mu/ be regulat$ to suit ! frames to be employ$ 9 ! weav+1 unless ! frames c be made to suit ! patt]n4 ,say five frames are to be us$1 ?is w\ld sugge/ five col\rs2 b x does n foll[ t only five col\rs c be us$4 ,a clev] design] may "w out mo/ patt]ns s t six or m col\rs may be us$ on five frames1 by arrang+ ! design s t two col\rs may be put to "o or m ( ! frames1 :i* process is call$ #8plant+4' ,b x may be t an extra numb] ( col\rs w n improve ! design1 9 :i* case !y %\ld n be us$4 ,! process ( #8plant+' or /rip+ ! w>p--:i* is on ! same pr9ciple z #8*9tz+' by /rip+ ! weft 9 o!r makes ( goods--w be be/ und]/ood by ref]r+ to ,fig4 #ahf1 :i* is a ,brussels c>pet patt]n on a small scale = work+ ) five frames4 ,! col\rs are indicat$ by diff]5t m>k+s on ! squ>es ( ! design-pap]1 z %[n by ! index or gamut bel[ ! design4 ,on ! fir/ l9e ( ! gamut !re are two v>ieties ( m>k+s1 & z ?is l9e indicates r$s1 !re are two col\rs ( r$ us$ on ?is frame4 ,foll[+ up ! design above ^! m>k+s1 x w be se5 t "o col\r ( r$ is us$ 9 "o ( ! sets or r[s ( octagonal figures1 & ! o!r col\r on ! int]m$iate r[s1 & t ! two col\rs ( r$ are n requir$ 9 ! same portions ( ! design1 ! gamut %[+ :]e ea* is requir$4 ,x is only necess>y to arrange ! spools on ! frame 9 ! loom & draw ! ?reads ?r\gh ! h>ness1 z %[n by ! gamut1 to make ?is fall 9 correctly4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ahf ,:at ! design] mu/ gu>d aga9/ is giv+ ! patt]n a /rip$ appe>ance1 :i* w\ld be ! case if ! plant$ col\rs 7 br\ght to ! surface too frequ5tly2 b if !y are judici\sly br\ght up at int]vals1 ! effect ( a #e-;frame c be made almo/ z good z t ( a #f-;frame patt]n1 & ?is c be c>ri$ /ill fur!r if desir$2 e frame may conta9 two col\rs1 or "o frame may conta9 sev]al col\rs4 ,c>pet patt]ns are sometimes pa9t$ on small-siz$ design pap]--t is1 ! ord9>y pap] )1 say1 two designs p] in*2 b be=e work+ x is m satisfactory to h !m put on l>ge-siz$ pap]1 s z to %[ ! exact effect !y w h on ! clo?1 ! design-pap] giv+ ! patt]n full-clo? size4 ,:5 pa9t+ patt]ns t are z l>ge or l>g] on ! clo? ?an !y are on ! design-pap]1 mu* m c>e & skill are necess>y ?an :5 ! patt]n is "o t is mu* l>g] on ! design-pap] ?an x w be on ! clo?1 z is usually ! case2 & 9 consequ5ce ( ! l>ge size ( ! *ecks requir$ = c>pet design-pap]1 x is evid5t t repres5tations ( any small objects--unless ^? ( a v simple nature--_c be put on x )\t be+ greatly enl>g$4 ,aft] ! sket* is made ! =ms %\ld be c>efully adapt$ to suit ! pap]1 s z to give a satisfactory effect on x1 r ?an be a rigid adh]5ce to ! sket*4 ,natural floral =ms %\ld n be attempt$ unless to satisfy ! dem&s ( trade1 & :5 !y mu/ be us$ !y %\ld be made on s l>ge a scale z to be fairly repres5t$ 9 a semi-conv5tional mann]4 ,l>ge wild-floral patt]ns are frequ5tly to be se5 on c>pets1 b !y are r>ely1 if ev]1 satisfactory4 ,p]sian1 ,indian1 & o!r geometric or conv5tional =ms t l5d !mselves readily to a h>moni\s admixture ( col\rs s t ! c>pet w1 :5 on ! floor1 pres5t a ri* gl[ ( col\r in/ead ( obtrusive masses ( floral misrepres5tations1 are mu* to be pref]r$4 ,dull col\r+ is n ess5tial to good ta/e--r ! rev]se2 b x is less obtrusive & m easily manag$1 p>ticul>ly 9 ! h&s ( an inf]ior arti/4 ,no matt] h[ brilliant ! col\rs are1 if prop]ly bl5d$ & brok5 up into masses 9 proportion to _! int5sities 9 ! spectrum scale !y ne$ n be 9 ! lea/ (f5sive2 b x requires skilful h&s to d ?is4 ,! patt]n giv5 9 our la/ figure 7#ahf7 is a simple repeat+ patt]n1 s t two pieces ( ! c>pet laid side by side w jo9 correctly toge!r4 ,ano!r me?od ( arrang+ patt]ns s t !y w repeat is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ahg4 ,9 ?is figure x w be se5 t ! two sides w n jo9 z an ord9>y repeat1 b if two pieces are tak5 ! "r-h& side ( "o w1 if turn$ r\nd1 jo9 aga9/ ! left-h& side ( ! o!r1 & two pieces ?us jo9$ w =m a repeat4 ,?is is objectionable 9 ! case ( cut pile1 :i* usually has a slope 9 "o direction2 & :5 two pieces are jo9$1 "o runn+ "o way & ! o!r ! rev]se1 ! effect w be t ( %ad$ /ripes1 some:at simil> to t ( a grass field :5 roll$4 ,ano!r me?od ( =m+ repeat+ patt]ns is by mak+ :at is kn[n z a #8drop repeat1' :i* is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ahh2 ?\gh ! two sides w n jo9 9 aga9/ ea* o!r1 z 9 an ord9>y repeat1 if two pieces ( ! c>pet be laid side by side1 & "o ( !m drawn a little d[n1 ! po9t ,a 9 ! figure ( "o piece w fall 9 aga9/ ,b & ,b#a ( ! o!r piece1 & repeat4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ahg ,^! %[ ! usual pr9ciples on :i* repeats are bas$1 & ( c\rse x is = ! +5uity ( ! design] to =m ! be/ arrangem5ts ( patt]n he c to suit !m1 or any o!r me?od he may ?9k (4 ,:5 cutt+ c>ds = c>pet patt]ns ! usual me?od ( pick+ out ! v>i\s col\rs = ea* cutt+ mu/ be adopt$ by ! c>d-cutt]4 ,ref] to ,fig4 #ahf = ! patt]n1 & to ,fig4 #ahe = ! draft4 ,! ord] ( draw+ is gre51 blue1 black1 yell[1 r$s1 :i* gives five r[s ( holes on ! c>d1 & ?is twice ov] makes ! t5 r[s2 !re=e1 gre5 w\ld be cut on ! fir/ & six? r[s2 blue on ! second & sev5?2 black on ! ?ird & eigh?2 yell[ on ! f\r? & n9?2 & r$s on ! fif? & t5? r[s4 ,^! may be all cut :5 pass+ ! c>d once along ! cutt+ ma*9e1 giv+ m ?an "o tramp1 if necess>y1 to ea* %ift ( ! c>d index2 or ! cutt]1 if n accu/om$ to ?is1 may pass ! c>d along once = ea* col\r1 work+ two ( ! pun*es at ea* passage ( ! c>d1 & ( c\rse rememb]+ to select ! pun*es :i* correspond to ! col\r be+ read4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ahh ,x mu/ be rememb]$ t two *ecks on ! design-pap] correspond ) a r[ ( t5 holes on ! c>ds1 z ea* *eck may h any ( five col\rs on x 9 ! case ( a #e-;frame c>pet patt]n1 & !re mu/ be a space = a hole 9 ! c>d = any ( ^! col\rs2 !re=e ! designs or l>ge squ>es on ! design-pap] w\ld consi/ ( two *ecks ea*4 ,suppose "o ( ^! *ecks--! fir/ "o--to be gre51 ! fir/ hole 9 ! c>d w\ld be cut = x2 if ! second *eck is also gre51 ! six? hole on ! c>d w\ld be cut2 b if x is black1 ! eigh? hole 9 ! c>d w\ld be cut1 n ! ?ird hole1 z x1 be+ ! second *eck1 comes on ! second half ( ! c>d4 ,! fir/ *eck /&s aga9/ ! fir/ five r[s ( holes 9 ! c>d1 & ! second *eck aga9/ ! second five r[s1 ea* *eck on ! design-pap] repres5t+ five ?reads1 five mails & five ne$les1 or five spaces on ! c>d2 b only "o hole is cut on ! c>d = x1 & t mu/ suit ! col\r ! *eck is pa9t$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ahi ,wilton ,c>pets4--,^! c>pets are made mu* 9 ! same mann] z ,brussels1 b ! pile is cut1 & !y are ( a bett] quality ( wool ) a long] pile1 & altoge!r a sup]ior article4 ,z ! pile is cut1 ! me?od ( b9d+ x into ! gr\nd is some:at diff]5t f t adopt$ = ,brussels1 9 ord] to secure a firm] b9d+4 ,a section ( ! clo? ?r\gh ! weft is giv5 9 ,fig4 #ahi1 %[+ two pile loops cut & "o uncut1 & also ! me?od ( b9d+ ! pile w>p ?reads ,nos4 #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 & #e1 ) ! gr\nd w>p ,a & ,b1 & ! weft is %[n 9 section1 or end view4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aij ,! w>p or pile ?reads are cut simil>ly to velvet by draw+ ! wires out ( ! loops & hav+ ea* wire furni%$ at its end ) a cutt+ edge4 ,fig4 #aij %[s ! draft & tread+ ( a ,wilton c>pet arrang$ = a h& loom4 ,! back is ! h>ness1 & ,nos4 #a1 #b1 & #c ! %afts4 ,no #b %aft is only requir$ :5 an extra or sil5t w>p is us$ = ! purpose ( giv+ weight & ?ick5+ ! fabric4 ,?is w>p1 if us$1 lies /raight betwe5 ! weft1 & mu/ be on a sep>ate beam f ! gr\nd w>p4 ,tape/ry ,c>pets4--,^! c>pets1 ?\gh !y d n require a jacqu>d to weave !m1 are s closely alli$ to ,brussels1 & patt]ns s simil> c be produc$ on !m1 t x is ?\ght desirable to give a %ort description ( !m4 ,?\gh figur$ weav+1 !y are n s 9 ! /rict s5se ( ! t]m1 z ! patt]n is pr9t$ on ! w>p in/ead ( be+ =m$ by v>i\s col\r$ w>ps2 !y are simply an imitation ( figur$ weav+ 9 col\rs4 ,any patt]n t c be put on a ,brussels c>pet c also be put on a tape/ry1 & ) fur!r v>iation if desir$4 ,! effect is n s %>p & ri* on ! tape/ry1 z ! col\rs1 be+ pr9t$ on ! w>p1 run into ea* o!r m or less1 & produce a slight blurr+ r\nd ! edges ( ! patt]n2 :]eas ! patt]n on ! ,brussels is s %>p & cle> r\nd ! edges z to make x h>% if two v contra/+ col\rs come toge!r1 s t 9 "s cases ! tape/ry patt]ns are s(t] & m pleas+4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aia ,fig4 #aia %[s ! texture ( a tape/ry c>pet4 ,a & ,b are ! gr\nd w>p ?reads :i* b9d ! weft1 ! same z 9 ,brussels2 ^! ?reads g on "o w>p roll4 #a1 #b1 & #c are ! ly+ or fill+ w>p ?reads ( l951 hemp1 or jute1 us$ = giv+ weight & ?ickness to ! clo?2 ^! ?reads g on a second roll4 ,p is ! pile1 :i*1 x w be obs]v$1 is ( v>i\s col\rs & loop$ all along ! clo?1 or passes ov] e wire t is ins]t$1 & ! patt]n is =m$ entirely by ! col\rs t ^! ?reads are pr9t$4 ,! pile goes on a ?ird w>p roll4 ,all ! pile c g on ! "o roll1 z e ?read is loop$ alike by ea* wire ins]t$4 ,a pair ( %afts = ! gr\nd w>p--"o = ! ly+ w>p & "o = ! pile--is all t is requir$ = weav+ ! clo?4 ,! pile consi/s ( two or ?ree ends ( two-fold wor/$ y>n1 accord+ to ! quality ( ! c>pet4 ,z ! fabric is made up to a great ext5t ) ! ?ree ly+ ends ( /iff5$ hemp or flax to ea* r[ ( pile loops1 ! c>pet is ( a h>d] & less pliable nature1 ) less spr+ 9 x ?an a ,brussels 7:i* has ! five pile wor/$ ?reads 9 x71 & x is also less durable4 ,! numb] ( pile loops 9 ! wid? ( ! clo? is ! same z = a l[-class ,brussels c>pet1 say #baf to #bbe1 & ! wid? ( ! clo? is ! same--ab\t #bg 94 ,five ?reads g to ea* split ( ! re$--viz4 "o pile1 two gr\nd w>p1 & ! ?ree ly+ or fill+ ends4 ,9 ^! c>pets1 z well z 9 ,brussels1 x w be se5 f ! sections t "o weft ?read is above a l[] "o1 ) a /raight tightly-/ret*$ w>p betwe5 !m4 ,a me?od ( weav+ has be5 adopt$ on ! ,cont95t 9 :i* bo? %$s are =m$ & bo? wefts pick$ at ! same "t4 ,"o %$ is rais$ above ! c5tre w>p1 & "o is sunk bel[ x1 & bo? %uttles are driv5 ?r\gh simultane\sly2 !n a pile %$ is rais$ & a wire ins]t$2 & ?is repeat$1 rev]s+ ! gr\nd %$s1 makes ! ord] ( weav+ = tape/ry c>pets4 ,ano!r me?od is to h d\ble mails1 "o mail above ! o!r on ! same h>ness cord or heald2 ! wool w>p goes to ! upp] mail1 & ! ly+ w>p to ! l[] "o4 ,:5 ! mails are rais$ a d\ble %$ is =m$1 & a pile wire & a pick c be ins]t$ at ! same "t4 ,! gr\nd or b9d+ w>p is 9 two additional leaves ( healds4 ,to apply ! =m] me?od to ,wilton c>pets1 two picks are put 9 bel[ to balance ) ! two above1 in/ead ( "o pick bel[1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ahi4 ,= tape/ry c>pets ! patt]n is prep>$ 9 ! same way z = ,brussels4 ,! repeat ( ! patt]n may be ( any l5g?1 b #bg1 #cf1 or #ed 94 are usual l5g?s4 ,! patt]n1 ?\gh prep>$ z if = ! jacqu>d1 is only a guide = ! pr9t] :5 pr9t+ ! col\rs on ! w>p4 ,! patt]n is pr9t$ on ! w>p 9 an elongat$ =m1 ! am\nt ( elongation co9cid+ exactly ) ! r$uction ! pile loops make 9 ! l5g? ( ! w>p :5 x is wov54 ,! patt]n 0 orig9ally pr9t$ on ! wov5 clo? by means ( blocks2 next x 0 pr9t$ on ! w>p 9 an elongat$ =m 9 ! same mann]2 n[ x is pr9t$ by means ( small roll]s4 ,! y>n = ea* ?read ( ! w>p1 or ( a numb] ( w>ps1 is w\nd sep>ately on a l>ge reel or drum1 ( su* a size z w hold a suitable quantity ( y>n 7ab\t #ah-c_/d feet 9 circumf]5ce74 ,six or eight ?reads are w\nd on toge!r1 s z to lie closely toge!r side by side & n ov]lap ea* o!r1 till ! drum is full1 or ! requir$ l5g? is w\nd on x4 ,?is has n[ to be pr9t$ ) ! patt]n 9 an elongat$ =m4 ,! "r-h& edge ( ! drum is divid$ into z _m divisions z a l5g? ( y>n equal to ! circumf]5ce ( ! drum w make loops on ! clo?4 ,?is is call$ ! index1 & #fdh is a common numb] ( divisions = x to h1 or #hfd = a l>g] size4 ,( c\rse ! numb] ( loops any l5g? ( y>n w make dep5ds ^u ! size ( !m1 & ! r$uction 9 l5g? f ! y>n to ! clo? dep5ds ^u ! height ( ! pile & ! numb] ( loops 9 a giv5 space4 ,! numb] ( loops p] in* v>ies ) ! quality ( ! clo?2 #g or #h is usual = loop pile1 & #i or #aj = cut or velvet pile4 ,! design mu/ conta9 su* a numb] ( *ecks 9 l5g? z w divide ev5ly into ! index numb]1 su* z #ajh1 #afb1 #baf1 #cbd4 ,:5 pa9t$ ! design is cut into /rips 9 ! direction ( its l5g?1 "o l9e or r[ ( *ecks 9 ea* /rip4 ,:5 ! y>n is w\nd on ! drum1 & ! pr9t] is ready to beg9 "w1 he takes "o ( ^! /rips & p9s x up be=e him to guide him 9 ! col\rs he is to pr9t4 ,! pr9t+ is done by means ( a tr\gh ( col\r ) a roll] 9 x1 set on a c>riage b5ea? ! drum1 s t :5 pass$ across ! roll] w press firmly on ! y>n4 ,! pr9t] f9ds ! fir/ col\r on ! design1 & sett+ ! drum to ! fir/ too? ( ! rack or index1 he passes a tr\gh ( ! prop] col\r across ! drum & back aga92 if ! second *eck on ! design is ! same col\r1 he turns ! drum r\nd a too? ( ! index & passes ! same col\r across2 if ! ?ird *eck is a diff]5t col\r1 ?is requires a second col\r tr\gh1 & pass+ ano!r too? on ! index ?is col\r is pass$1 & s on ) ! rema9d]2 or1 all "o col\r is pr9t$ fir/1 !n ! drum revolv$ aga9 ) ! second col\r1 & s on4 ,:5 ?is is all pr9t$ ! y>n is tak5 (f ! drum & m>k$ ,no4 #a ?read1 & ! beg9n+ & end ( ! ?read %\ld be m>k$ 9 "s way z a guide = ! sett]s4 ,a fre% lot ( y>n is w\nd on = ! second ?read1 :i* is pr9t$ accord+ to ! second /rip ( ! design4 ,?is mu/ be cont9u$ = all ! ?reads 9 ! w>p4 ,aft] be+ pr9t$1 ! col\rs are fix$ by a /eam+ process1 & aft]w>ds w\nd on bobb9s & m>k$ to _! numb]s4 ,! design may be cut into /rips ( two *ecks ea*1 in/ead ( "o *eck1 :i* w be less liable to get torn4 ,"o side ( ! /rip c !n be pr9t$ fir/1 & ! o!r aft]4 ,! w>p is made up by #8sett]s1' :o arrange ! ?reads toge!r 9 prop] ord] 9 a frame = ! purpose1 & set !m s t ! col\rs ( ea* ?read come toge!r at ! prop] place to =m on ! w>p a correct elongat$ copy ( ! patt]n2 :5 correct x is w\nd on ! beam = ! loom4 ,9 pr9t+ & /eam+1 ! col\rs are liable to run into ea* o!r2 "s col\rs are worse 9 ?is respect ?an o!rs1 b x is r$uc$ to a m9imum by ! use ( an absorb5t 9 /eam+2 & sometimes ! design] makes a little all[ance on ! design-pap] = su* col\rs z he kn[s w be liable to run & injure ! patt]n4 ,! pile ( tape/ry c>pets is usually left uncut2 b sometimes x is cut1 =m+ a velvet pile4 ,9 ?is case ! c>pet is made ( a bett] quality1 & ! pile is long]4 ,! pres5t me?od ( prep>+ tape/ry w>ps 0 inv5t$ by ,ri*>d ,:ytock1 ( ,ed9burgh1 9 #ahcb1 & p]fect$ by ,messrs4 ,crossley1 ( ,halifax4 ,axm9/] ,c>pets4--,real ,axm9/] c>pets1 z already said1 are made by h& mu* 9 ! same mann] z ,turki% or ,p]sian c>pets1 & attempts h also be5 made to produce !m by ma*9]y1 sev]al pat5ts hav+ be5 tak5 out = ! protection ( ! inv5tions4 ,^! c>pets1 ) o!r art c>pets n[ be+ made1 may be class$ ) tape/ry z works ( art4 ,! ,axm9/] c>pets ( comm]ce are ! ,royal ,axm9/] or ,moquette c>pets1 & ! pat5t ,axm9/] or *5ille c>pets4 ,royal ,axm9/] c>pets are made by a peculi> process ( weav+ & tuft+ on a loom made specially = ! purpose4 ,a numb] ( little funnels c>ry+ f spools ?reads ( ! diff]5t col\rs ( y>n requir$ = ! patt]n are fix$ on ! loom above ! re$1 & ^! ?reads1 by suitable me*anism1 are br\ght d[n & b\nd into ! back+ clo? by ! weft4 ,^! ?reads1 :i* =m ! pile1 are cut (f1 & aft]w>ds ! surface ( ! c>pet is %orn level4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aib ,! texture ( ,moquette c>pets is %[n 9 section 9 ,fig4 #aib1 two v>ieties ( texture be+ giv51 "o at ,a1 ! o!r at ,b4 ,9 bo? ^! textures ! patt]n %[s ?r\gh on ! back ( ! clo?4 ,ano!r v>iety is giv5 9 ,fig4 #aic4 ,a is ! section ?r\gh ! weft1 ,b ! texture1 ,c ,d ,e ,f %[s ! int]lac+ ( ea* ( ! f\r w>p ?reads 9 ! patt]n ) ! weft1 & ,g %[s ! pile4 ,simil> numb]s 9 ^! figures repres5t ! same ?reads 9 ! clo?4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aic ,pat5t ,axm9/] ,c>pets4--,^! 7 inv5t$ by ,mr4 ,jas4 ,templeton1 ( ,glasg[1 ab\t #ahci1 & are a description ( *5ille weav+4 ,!y d n require to be wr\ght by a jacqu>d any m ?an ! o!r ,axm9/] c>pets1 b z ! figures =m$ on !m are s simil> to ^? produc$ by ! jacqu>d1 & z ! me?od ( design+ ! patt]ns is ! same = bo? !m & o!r classes ( *5ille z x is = jacqu>d "w1 x may n be consid]$ out ( place to give a full description ( *5ille "h4 ,*5ille is made by a d\ble process ( weav+4 ,fir/ ! weft or *5ille ?read is wov51 if = a figur$ patt]n 9 v>i\s col\rs1 :i* corresponds to ! pr9t+ ( ! w>p 9 tape/ry c>pet weav+1 :i* gives a w>p figure1 :]eas *5ille gives a weft figure4 ,:5 ! weft is wov5 9 a piece x is cut up into /rips & twi/$1 if = curta9s or any fabric on :i* ! *5ille weft is to %[ on bo? sides2 b = c>pets1 :]e all ! pile is rais$ to "o side1 ! weft is d\bl$ up1 br++ all ! pile 9 "o direction4 ,twi/+ ma*9es are n[ 9 use = mak+ ! weft = pla9 *5ille fabrics1 b = figur$ ones x is /ill wov54 ,if twi/$ = figur$ "w x w\ld aft]w>ds h to be pr9t$ some:at simil> to tape/ry c>pet w>ps1 b )\t elongat+ ! patt]n1 & ! unev5 surface is a difficulty 9 ! way4 ,! me?od ( weav+ *5ille weft is z foll[s3--,a loom fix$ = work+ gauze is suppli$ ) a ?9ly laid w>p1 :i*1 accord+ to ! class ( *5ille requir$1 is drawn ?r\gh ! h$dles ei!r z pla9 gauze1 two ?reads work+ pla9 ) "o cross+ !m1 or ?is d\bl$1 z is %[n 9 ,fig4 #aid4 ,! two1 ?ree1 or six ?reads ( ! draft are drawn into "o split ( ! re$1 :i* is f9] or co>s] to suit ! fabric requir$4 ,= %awls or curta9s !re w\ld be six to eight full splits ( ! re$ p] in*2 say 9 a re$ ( ?irty to =ty splits p] in*1 f\r splits empty to "o full4 ,= c>pets !re w\ld be two or ?ree full splits p] in*2 say 9 a re$ ( t5 to fifte5 splits p] in*1 f\r empty & "o full1 co>s] or f9] to suit ! l5g? ( pile requir$4 ,= pla9 "w ?is is ti$ up & wov5 z gauze1 ! w>p be+ cotton ( a d>k col\r1 & ! weft wooll51 noil silk1 or o!r fibre if desir$2 b x %\ld consi/ ( sev]al ends & be ( su* a nature z w divide easily to =m a ri* pile4 ,if = figur$ "w1 ! patt]n mu/ be wov5 9 /ripes across ! piece1 :i* w be expla9$ aft] ! design+4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aid ,:5 ! piece is wov5 x w be z %[n at ,a1 ,b1 or ,c 7,fig4 #aid7 & mu/ next be cut into /rips midway betwe5 ! ribs4 ,sometimes ?is is done 9 ! loom z ! clo? is be+ wov51 by hav+ cutt+ knives arrang$ to divide x z x passes ov] ! brea/ beam2 b x is usually tak5 (f 9 ! piece & cut aft]w>ds 9 a ma*9e = ! purpose4 ,! piece is f$ ?r\gh roll]s 9 ! cutt+ ma*9e ov] a groov$ roll]1 %[n at ,b 7,fig4 #aie71 ! grooves be+ at su* a di/ance ap>t t ! ribs ( ! piece w fall into !m4 ,above ?is roll] is a set ( cutt+ blades fix$ 9 a spiral =m r\nd a roll]2 "o ( ^! blades is %[n at ,a 7,fig4 #aie71 ) a section ( ! roll]4 ,! blades are set at su* a di/ance ap>t t :5 revolv+ !y fall into ! cuts 9 ! roll] ,b1 & runn+ at a high spe$ !y sev] ! piece into /rips z x passes ?r\gh ! ma*9e4 ,s f> ! process is alike = all classes ( *5ille "w4 ,! weft is n[ 9 /rips simil> to t %[n at ,a 7,fig4 #aif7 if = c>pets1 & mu* small] if = curta9s or %awls4 ,= ord9>y *5ille ! weft is next twi/$ s z to make ! project+ fibres /& out r\nd ! rib or core1 & :5 f9i%$ x has ! appe>ance %[n at ,b 7,fig4 #aif74 ,if = c>pets1 ! fibres are turn$ up s t all w project 9 "o direction1 z %[n at ,c & 9 ! cross-section at d4 ,?is is done by runn+ ! /rips ov] a groov$ roll]1 z ,c 7,fig4 #aie71 :i* is heat$ ) /eam1 & z ! project+ ends are d\bl$ up by ! grooves 9 ! roll] ! heat sets !m 9 ?is position4 ,! weft is n[ prep>$1 & is w\nd on bobb9s & wov5 9 l>ge %uttles4 ,! texture = *5ille is ! same z = pla9 clo?4 ,a f9e black w>p ( cotton is us$1 ) tw5ty to tw5ty-five ?reads p] in* 7m or less1 to suit ! fabric requir$71 & twelve to sixte5 %ots p] in* ( ! *5ille weft are us$1 :i* mu/ also be v>i$ to suit circum/ances & ! ?ickness ( ! weft us$4 ,! fibres or po9ts ( ! ?read ( weft project ?r\gh ! w>p1 & a pile fabric is produc$ :i* %\ld entirely conceal ! w>p on bo? sides ( ! clo?4 ,= c>pets ! pile is1 z a rule1 only all[$ to project on "o side1 ?\gh "s rugs are made ) a twi/$ *5ille weft1 & ! col\rs on x are %[n p>tly ?r\gh ! back+ z ! fibres ( ! ?read get mix$ up ) ! gr\nd or back+ 9 weav+1 b usually all ! pile projects ?r\gh to ! face4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aie ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aif ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aig ,! texture = pat5t ,axm9/] c>pets is %[n at ,a 7,fig4 #aig71 & sections ( ! clo? ?r\gh ! weft are %[n at ,b & ,c 9 ! same figure1 ,b is a section ( ! texture ,a ) two picks betwe5 ! pile or *5ille picks1 & ,c is = a co>s] description ( "w ) f\r gr\nd picks betwe5 ! pile picks4 ,9 ,a only ! gr\nd texture is giv5 complete2 ! pile weft ,p lies ov] ! picks f f1 & is b\nd d[n by a f9e black /it*+ ?read ,c1 :i* passes ov] x & "u ! picks g g4 ,! diff]5t ?icknesses ( ! ?reads are repres5t$ 9 ! draw+3 ,c are cotton1 & ! o!rs hemp1 flax1 or jute4 ,!re are ab\t t5 ?ick & t5 f9e w>p ?reads p] in*1 & five b9d+ ?reads1 & ab\t sev5 *5ille picks p] in*1 ) two gr\nd picks betwe5 ^!4 ,:5 !re are f\r gr\nd picks betwe5 ! pile picks ! pile is co>se1 & only ab\t f\r picks p] in* are us$4 ,! *5ille weft is w\nd on l>ge wood5 ne$les l huge nett+ ne$les1 ab\t #d ft4 long1 s t x may come (f )\t any twi/ 9 x1 & ! weav] pu%es ^! ?r\gh ! %$1 lay+ ! weft nicely 9 & comb+ x =w>d s z to get x /raight & ev5 & h all ! pile /&+ upright2 he !n knocks 9 two gr\nd picks & puts 9 ano!r pile ?read1 z be=e4 ,?is is all h&-loom "w1 b p[] looms are sometimes us$ = ! purpose4 ,! gr\nd ( ! fabric c be wov5 ) h$dles1 z be=e1 b ! b9d+ w>p ?reads are ?r\gh ne$les1 some:at l gauze d5ts inv]t$1 & n ?r\gh ! h$dles2 & ! beam or spools conta9+ !m is above ! loom 9 front4 ,! *5ille weft is w\nd on a reel1 & is ?r\gh a guide or c>ri]4 ,:5 ! *5ille weft is to be laid 91 ! ne$les c>ry+ ! b9d]s are rais$ & ! guide pass$ along1 lay+ 9 ! weft4 ,! loom /&s /ation>y = a %ort "t to give ! weav] "t to comb up ! pile1 & !n moves on & ?r[s 9 ! gr\nd picks4 ,ev]y?+ is done automatically b ! comb+ up ( ! pile4 ,! =ego+ is a description ( *5ille weav+ provid$ no patt]n has to be att5d$ to2 we mu/ n[ consid] ! patt]n4 ,! design pap] us$ is ! same z = ord9>y "w1 ) a great] numb] ( w>p ?an weft ?reads1 b x is rul$ on a l>ge scale s t ! patt]n w be exactly clo? size4 ,fig4 #aih is a sample ( ?is design-pap] = sev5 picks p] in*4 ,! small *ecks1 or :at 9 ord9>y weav+ w\ld repres5t ! w>p ?reads1 h "h no ref]5ce to !m1 nor d ! w>p ?reads require any consid]ation :5 prep>+ ! patt]n4 ,! n>r[ way ( ! *ecks is a guide to ! weav+ ( ! weft ?reads4 ,?is pap] might h be5 squ>e1 sev5 by sev51 & w\ld ?us suit = su* a patt]n z is %[n 9 ,fig4 #aii--suppos+ sev5 %ots ( *5ille weft p] in* to be correct2 b !re is an advantage 9 _m cases to h x z x is1 or ev5 m (f ! squ>e1 say sev5 by tw5ty1 :i* is "o ( ! pap]s us$4 ,?is w be mo/ readily und]/ood by foll[+ ! work+ out ( ! patt]n4 ,! patt]n giv5 7,fig4 #aii7 is necess>ily v simple = want ( space4 ,! diff]5t m>k+s on ! squ>es are to indicate diff]5t col\rs4 ,"h n9e are us$1 b !re may be any numb]--say f eight to tw5ty--! only re/riction on ! numb] ( col\rs employ$ is t s _m %ades ( y>n are requir$ to mat* !m1 & t ! weav] has a great] numb] ( %uttles to pass ov] :5 weav+ ! weft4 ,:5 ! patt]n is pa9t$ x is cut cross-ways into /rips1 z ,a1 ,b1 two r[s ( *ecks 9 ea* /rip2 "o r[ ( *ecks may be 9 ea* /rip if desir$2 b ?is is unnecess>y1 & besides1 !y are m easily torn4 ,^! /rips are a guide to ! weav+ ( ! weft1 j 9 ! same way z ! patt]n 9 tape/ry c>pet "w is a guide to ! pr9t]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aih ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aii ,! weav] takes a /rip ( ! patt]n & puts x ?r\gh a wid5$ split 9 ! re$ & p9s "o end ( x to ! clo?2 to ! o!r end he atta*es a cord & light weight1 :i* he hangs ov] ! back rail ( ! loom s t ! /rip ( design w be held /eady & move =w>d z ! clo? is drawn up4 ,! /rip mu/ be p9n$ to ! clo? s t ! fir/ *eck ( ! design projects ov] ! fell ( ! clo?4 ,suppose ! /rip to be ,a1 ,fig4 #aii3 ,c is ! fir/ *eck2 ! weav] sees t ?is is black1 & proce$s to weave ! gauze ) black weft = ! l5g? ( ?is *eck 7"o-sev5? ( an in*74 ,! next *eck1 mov+ along ! /rip 9 ! loom1 or f left to "r on ! design1 is a diff]5t col\r1 say sc>let2 ! weav] *anges 8 %uttle & weaves z _m *ecks z !re are ( ?is col\r1 :i* 9 ?is case is only "o4 ,ano!r *ange ( %uttle is made1 & s on till ! end ( ! /rip is rea*$2 x is !n turn$1 ! o!r end ( x be+ br\ght to ! fell ( ! clo?1 & ! *ecks on ! second l9e ( ! design are wov5 9 ord] z be=e1 only !y mu/ run f "r to left on ! design in/ead ( f left to "r1 z ! fir/ l9e did1 :i* w be caus$ by ! turn+ ( ! /rip ( pap]2 = x mu/ be borne 9 m9d t if ! fir/ %ot ( *5ille weft is put into ! c>pet f left to "r1 ! next "o w be put 9 f ! rev]se side or f "r to left1 s t all ! odd numb]s ( l9es on ! design-pap] %\ld be begun by ! weft weav] at ! left-h& side1 & all ! ev5 numb]s at ! "r-h& side1 provid$ ! weav] works 9 ?is way2 9 any case "o mu/ be ! rev]se ( ! o!r4 ,:5 all ! /rips ( ! patt]n are wov51 ea* rib ( ! piece ( weft w be long en\gh to weave z _m %ots z are 9 "o repeat ( ! patt]n1 & if !re be #dj ribs 9 ! piece1 x w\ld1 :5 cut up1 furni% weft = #dj repeats ( ! patt]n4 ,= weav+ ?is weft l>ge ne$les are us$1 some:at simil> to nett+ ne$les1 :i* are ab\t #d ft4 long = wide looms2 ! *5ille is w\nd on ^!1 free f twi/1 & mu/ be put on s t x w come (f correctly to suit ! patt]n4 ,! /rips ( *5ille are m>k$ to %[ :i* end is to be put on ! ne$le fir/4 ,^! ne$les are pu%$ ?r\gh ! %$ by ! weav] :5 weav+ ! c>pet--put 9 at "o side & drawn out at ! o!r4 ,he lays 9 ! weft z correctly z possible1 comb+ x up to ! fell ( ! clo?1 & makes ! col\rs fall 9 nicely toge!r1 draw+ x tight] or leav+ x slack] z is necess>y4 ,n[ ! advantage ( us+ ! special design-pap] w be m readily und]/ood4 ,x is pla9 t if #ad by #g design-pap] be us$1 in/ead ( #g by #g1 any ( ! col\rs may be *ang$ 9 #a_/ad 94 on ! design2 & also 9 ! *5ille weav+1 :5 x is desirable to d s1 in/ead ( 9 ea* #a_/g 94 :5 #g by #g pap] is us$4 ,& if #bj by #g pap] 7 us$1 ! *anges might be /ill m frequ5t2 besides1 9 fl[+ patt]ns ! advantage also comes 9 to assi/ 9 gett+ ! =ms m correct1 9 ! same way z pap] ov] squ>e 9 ei!r w>p or weft assi/s 9 gett+ ! =m ( ! figure 9 damask design+ ov] t :]e only ! co>s] way ( ! pap] squ>e is us$2 ?\gh ! effect is n by any means s satisfactory z if ! pap] 7 f9] bo? ways1 & squ>e4 ,yet :5 "o way is fix$ by circum/ances x is 9 _m cases pref]able to alt] x 9 ! o!r way ?an to leave bo? alike co>se2 b n always s1 z1 = example1 ! patt]n giv5 9 ,fig4 #aii4 ,:5 ^! c>pets are wov5 !y are pass$ ?r\gh a %e>+ ma*9e1 :i* makes ! surface ( ! pile q level4 ,!y are ri* h&some c>pets1 z well z v durable4 ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,lappets ,,& ,,swivels ,lappet & ,swivel ,weav+4--,! only classes ( figur$ weav+ ( any importance n already m5tion$ are lappet & swivel "w1 bo? ( :i* are v limit$1 b produce good effects4 ,) lappets1 figures c be put on light fabrics )\t requir+ any cutt+ (f ( ! surplus y>n4 ,x is pr9cipally 9 ! musl9 trade t !y are us$1 = figur+ ,indian fabrics ) gay col\rs4 ,! pr9cipal seat ( ! manufacture 9 ?is c\ntry is ab\t ,glasg[4 ,! figure is =m$ by an extra w>p drawn ?r\gh "o or m frames ( gauz+ ne$les set 9 ! lay 9 front ( ! re$1 :i* c be mov$ to ei!r side z desir$4 ,! patt]n is cut on a l>ge wood5 :eel or disc1 9 ! face ( :i* a groove is cut to =m ! patt]n1 & a travell] work+ 9 ?is groove1 & connect$ ) ! ne$le frame1 slides ! ne$les to ei!r side & /it*es ! figur+ w>p into ! clo?1 ! ne$les ris+ & fall+ z ! clo? is be+ wov54 ,! figure is r loose & only suit$ = simple effects4 ,a description ( ! process ( work+ c be f\nd 9 ,murphy's or ,gilroy's works on weav+1 & is int]e/+1 ?\gh r out ( date4 ,swivel "w is ( a mu* bett] class1 ?\gh n s suitable = gett+ small figures1 z spots %ort di/ances ap>t4 ,b x gives a mu* bett] b\nd figure--9 fact1 x may be b\nd 9 any way--& is v suitable :5 a few are requir$ on ! fabric1 su* z cre/s1 or any figures 9 ! corn]s or c5tres ( h&k]*iefs1 napk9s1 etc4 ,^! are weft figures & usually ( a diff]5t col\r to ! gr\nd ( ! fabric1 :i* may be ei!r pla9 or figur$4 ,^! figures c\ld be =m$ ) an ord9>y box loom1 cutt+ (f ! loose weft or b9d+ x up to ! gr\nd clo?2 b ! latt] is useless = light fabrics1 & ! =m] leaves ! figure unb\nd r\nd ! edges4 ,if ! figure is l>ge en\gh x c be made 9 an ord9>y *eck or pick-&-pick loom1 & b\nd z ) swivels4 ,! swivels are small %uttles simil> to ^? us$ = weav+ silk book-m>k]s & su* l fabrics1 & are usually atta*$ to ! h& rail ( ! lay ( ! loom4 ,! swivel atta*m5t is fix$ s t :5 a %$ is op5$ ! %uttle falls to pass ?r\gh x1 or a second high %$ may be op5$ = ! swivel %uttle4 ,! %uttle is driv5 by means ( a rack & p9ion1 ! =m] be+ 9 ! %uttle1 & ! p9ions fix$ to revolve 9 ! frame4 ,:5 ! p9ions are revolv$ ! %uttle is drawn across4 ,! bread? ( ! figures mu/ be consid]ably less ?an ! l5g? ( ! %uttle1 s t = l>ge-siz$ figures ?is me?od ( work+ is n suit$4 ,,conclusion ,s9ce ! =ego+ 0 writt5 up to ! pres5t "t 7,sept4 #ahid7 no?+ new wor? describ+ has made its appe>ance4 ,a few c>d lac+ ma*9es h be5 br\ght out & sev]al pat5ts h appe>$ 9 pr9t1 b mo/ ( ^! disappe> %ortly aft]4 ,no m5tion has be5 made 9 ?is "w ( ,c\nt ,sp>res' pat5t c>d-cutt+ ma*9e1 :i* 0 to h done away ) ! necessity ( putt+ patt]ns on po9t pap] by cutt+ ! c>ds direct f ! sket* emboss$ on a metallic plate4 ,?is 0 a highly +5i\s ma*9e1 & "u suitable conditions produc$ v fair "w1 b s f> x has prov$ r exp5sive to ! company t took x up4 ,ano!r process to obta9 simil> results1 pat5t$ by ,messrs4 ,dawson & ,adams ( ,macclesfield1 0 describ$ 9 ! #8,textile ,manufactur]' 9 #ahic4 ,9 ?is process a p]=at$ plate is fill$ ) small p9s2 a piece ( /rong pap] is laid ov] ?is1 & ov] ! pap] ano!r plate4 ,! patt]n is =m$ by pu%+ ! p9s ?r\gh ! pap] betwe5 ! plates4 ,a l>ge portion ( ?is "w c be done by me*anical means4 ,:5 all ! p9s requir$ = ! patt]n are press$ ?r\gh ! pap]1 ! top plate ) ! %eet ( pap] is turn$ upside d[n1 ! p9s /ick+ 9 ! pap]4 ,by runn+ a roll] ov] ! pap] ! p9s c be press$ out ( x & into ! plate4 ,?is plate is !n put into a read+ & pun*+ ma*9e1 & by suitable me*anism ! p9s c be br\ght to act on ei!r a c>d-pun*+ app>atus or on ! h>ness ( a patt]n loom2 s ! manufactur] c h a sample ( ! clo? wov5 )\t any c>ds & c h ! c>ds cut = ! factory loom aft]w>ds if he requires !m4 ,! c>ds c be pun*$ at ! rate ( #bjjj p] h\r4 ,by means ( a patt]n cut out ( a plate ( wax1 & a read+ 9 ma*9e1 ! fill+ ( ! p9s into ! plate1 or ! h& read+ z x is call$1 c be disp5s$ )4 ,x has s9ce be5 /at$ t ?is firm are n[ try+ to p]fect a process :i* 0 tri$ ?irty ye>s ago1 viz4 to pa9t ! patt]n ) electric pa9t :i* is to act on ne$les *>g$ ) electricity4 ,^! are all highly +5i\s inv5tions1 & are int]e/+ to ^? :o d n lose too mu* by !m2 b x w require a nice ma*9e to produce all ! v>iations 9 a patt]n t an exp]i5c$ design] c1 ?\gh 9 _m patt]ns ?is c\ld be disp5s$ )1 & suitable me*anical means may yet be devis$ to take a %>e ( ! "w4 ,,index ,axm9/] c>pets1 #bff1 #bhh ,b>rel or cyl9d] loom1 #ag ,beet+ a h>ness1 #hi ,bessrook ma*9e1 #ahe ,bord] design1 #ig1 #ajj1 #aae1 #acd -- m\nt+s1 #aje ,b\*on's loom1 #ah ,brussels c>pets1 #bg ,c>ds1 #ea1 #adg ,c>d cutt+1 #aci -- -- ma*9es1 #adc -- -- -- 7,c\nt ,sp>res'71 #bii -- -- -- 7,fr5*71 #afg -- frames1 #dg1 #aef -- lac+1 #aci -- -- ma*9es1 #adh -- repeat+ ma*9es1 #adi ,c>pets1 #bfd -- *5ille1 #bij -- ,axm9/]1 #bff1 #bhh -- ,brussels1 #bgf -- ,indian1 #bfe -- ,+ra91 #bfi -- ,kidd]m9/]1 #bff -- pat5t ,axm9/]1 #bhi -- ,p]sian1 #bfe -- royal ,axm9/]1 #bhh -- ,scot*1 #bff -- tape/ry1 #bhe -- ,turki%1 #bfe -- ,wilton1 #bhd ,c5tr$ tie1 #ig ,*5ille1 #bij ,comb draw loom1 #af ,comb] bo>ds1 #hb1 #ajc ,cross-bord] jacqu>d1 #aee ,cross's c\nt]poise h>ness1 #ad ,cumb] bo>ds1 #hb1 #ajc ,curta9s & tape/ries1 #bdh ,cyl9d] motions 7horizontal71 #dd -- 7self-act+71 #cf -- 7slide71 #dc1 #eg1 #fa -- 7sw+71 #cc1 #ef1 #eh -- to set a1 #dj1 #dc ,design+ & draught+1 #aaj -- h9ts on1 #abj ,design pap]1 #aab -- to prep>e a1 #aae ,designs1 #id1 #ig1 #ajj -- = dress goods1 #abb -- = ga!r$ bord]s1 #ig -- = s+le bord]s1 #ajj -- 7repeat+71 #id1 #abb -- 7texture71 #abd ,d\ble clo?1 #bcc -- -- jacqu>d1 #bda -- w>p fac$ clo?1 #bcg -- weft fac$ clo?1 #bce ,draught+ a patt]n1 #aae ,draw loom1 #c -- -- ,fr5*1 #bd ,draw+ 9 a w>p1 #ii ,falcon's loom1 #ai ,fr5* c>d1 #ea -- -- cutt+ ma*9e1 #afg -- draw loom1 #bd -- jacqu>d1 #di ,full h>ness1 #fi -- -- m\nt+s1 #fi ,ga!r$ tie1 #ig ,gauze1 #aif -- to design a patt]n1 #bae -- h>ness 7h&-loom71 #bjc -- -- 7p[]-loom71 #bje ,gauze1 jacqu>d1 #bad1 #bbc -- patt]ns1 #aig1 #aih1 #bag -- re$1 #bbe ,griffes1 #cg1 #eb ,hair-l9e patt]ns1 #abi ,half-h>ness1 #fi1 #afi ,h>ness1 draw+ w>p into1 #ii -- illu/rations (1 #if1 #ih1 #ajb1 #aia -- to prep>e a1 #ga -- to tie up a1 #hg -- 7d\ble clo?71 #bcc -- 7full71 #fi -- 7gauze71 #bjc1 #bje -- 7half71 #fi1 #afi -- 7musl971 #afi -- 7pressure71 #gj1 #agd -- 7quilt+71 #bcc -- re$s1 #hb -- 7split71 #fb1 #agb -- tw9e1 #ge ,hecks1 #gg ,hole bo>d1 #hc ,hooks = jacqu>d1 #ch1 #ci1 #eb1 #ei -- 9 d\ble-act+ jacqu>d1 #ee1 #ei ,indian c>pets1 #bfe ,+ra9 c>pets1 #bfi ,introduction1 #a ,jacqu>d's ma*9e1 #bc ,jacqu>d ma*9es1 #bg -- 7cross-bord]71 #aee -- 7d\ble-act+71 #eb -- 7d\ble clo?71 #bda -- 7d\ble-act+ ) two cyl9d]s71 #eh -- 7,fr5*71 #di -- 7gauze71 #bad -- 7,k>l ,we971 #aib -- 7l5o71 #bad -- 7op5-%$71 #afa -- 7quilt+71 #bda -- 7twill+71 #ahe -- 7,v]dl71 #afc -- c>ds1 #ej -- cyl9d]1 to set a1 #dj1 #dc -- hooks1 #ch1 #ci1 #eb1 #ei -- int]ior (1 #ch -- ne$les1 #ch1 #ci1 #eb1 #ei -- %$d+1 #fj1 #fb -- /op motion1 #fd -- to set a1 #dc1 #df1 #gf ,k>l ,we9 jacqu>d1 #aib ,kidd]m9/] c>pet1 #bff ,lac+ c>ds1 #aci -- ma*9e1 #adh -- tw9e1 #adg ,lappet weav+1 #bih ,la%+ a patt]n1 #i ,l5o jacqu>d1 #bad ,lett]s1 mottoes1 c41 #acf ,levell+ frames1 #he -- ! mails1 #hf ,l+oes1 #gb1 #gd ,london tie1 #if ,m>k+ (f a cumb] bo>d1 #ajc ,m>seilles quilt1 #bdf ,matelasses1 #bdf ,mottoes & lett]s1 #acf ,m\nt+s1 #fi ,musl9 h>ness1 #afi ,neck ( h>ness1 #gi ,ne$les1 #ch ,norwi* tie1 #ie ,op5-%$ jacqu>d1 #afa ,pa9ts = patt]ns1 #aaf ,p>rot ma*9e1 #aa ,pat5t ,axm9/] c>pet1 #bhi ,patt]n1 to draught a1 #aae ,patt]ns 7c>pet71 #bhj1 #bhb-c -- 7gauze71 #aig1 #bag -- 7hair-l9e71 #abi -- 7spot71 #acj -- 7texture71 #abd ,p]sian c>pets1 #bfe ,piano ma*9e1 #ade ,pile "w1 #bei ,po9t pap]1 #aab ,popl9s1 #beb ,pressure h>ness1 #agd ,quilt+1 #bdg ,quilt+ h>ness1 #bcc ,read+ a patt]n1 #i ,repeat ( a patt]n1 #id ,repeat+ ma*9es1 #adi ,rev]s+ motions1 #de ,royal ,axm9/] c>pets1 #bh ,scot* c>pets1 #bff ,set ( h>ness 7to v>y71 #ajf ,sett+ a jacqu>d1 #dc1 #df1 #gf ,%ad+ floral =ms1 #aah ,%$d+ ( jacqu>ds1 #fb ,simple 7draw loom71 #c ,slab/ock1 #he ,sleep]s1 #gc ,slips 7comb] bo>d71 #hc ,split h>ness1 #agb ,spot patt]ns1 #aca ,spr+ box1 #db ,/op motion1 #fd ,sugge/ions on design1 #abj ,swivel weav+1 #bih ,tail cords1 #ed ,tape/ry 7real71 #bee -- c>pets1 #bhe -- curta9s1 #bdh ,t]ry pile1 #bfj ,texture patt]ns1 #abd ,tie ( a h>ness1 #ic ,trap bo>d1 #ae ,turkey c>pets1 #bfe ,turki% t[els1 #bfj ,twill+ designs1 #aag1 #acc -- jacqu>ds1 #ahe ,twills = damask1 #aha ,ty+ up a h>ness1 #hg ,v>ni%+ a h>ness1 #ib ,v>y+ ! set ( a h>ness1 #ajf ,vaucanson's loom1 #bb ,v]dl jacqu>d1 #di1 #afc ,wilton c>pets1 #bhd ,wir+ c>ds1 #aec ,wooll5s & wor/$s1 #bdh ,,pr9t$ ,,by ,,spottiswoode ,,& ,,co41 ,,new-,,/reet ,,squ>e ,,london ,transcrib]'s notes3 ,9 ! text v]sion1 italics are repres5t$ by und]scores1 & bold & black lett] text by equals symbols4 ,sup]scripts are repres5t$ by & subscripts by 4 ,miss+ or incorrect punctuation has be5 repair$4 ,inconsi/5t spell+ & hyph5ation h be5 left z pr9t$4 ,! foll[+ mi/akes h be5 not$3 p4 #ae4 bo>s has be5 *ang$ to b>s4 ,misalign$ typeface has half duplicat$ ! fir/ lett] ( ea* l9e on ?is page4 p4 #bf4 ,bo? trapbo>d & trap bo>d h be5 us$ 9 ! text & h be5 left z pr9t$4 p4 #ce4 cyi9d] has be5 *ang$ to cyl9d]4 p4 #fe4 #b #d #f #h #ac #ab *ang$ to #b #d #f #h #aj #ab4 p4 #acd4 co>ses has be5 *ang$ to co>s]4 p4 #acb4 fig4 #c has be5 *ang$ to ,fig4 #c z us$ 9 all o!r cases4 p4 #ada4 cycl9d] has be5 *ang$ to cyl9d] p4 #bjh4 tightly pac$ %\ld probably read spac$ or plac$1 b has be5 left z pr9t$4