,illustration3 ,t4 ,j4 ,,mcconnaughay4 ,,part ,,first ,barbers' ,manual ,,part ,,second ,text ,book on ,taxidermy ,by ,t4 ,j4 ,mc,connaughay ,,price1 #a4be ,copyrighted and all rights reserved by author4 ,chicago1 ,ill41 #ahih4 ,preface4 ,by way of explaining the dual character of this little book1 we here indulge a few brief introductory remarks4 ,part ,first is designed simply as a manual of instruction for barbers1 and we hope it will1 in a valuable measure1 supply a long felt need4 ,it will prove especially beneficial to the younger and less experienced members of our craft4 ,the best artisans and artists admit they owe much to the accumulated knowledge and experience of both their predecessors and their contemporaries4 ,indeed1 to assert any claim to advanced knowledge and skill1 without due acknowledgements for the help received from others would savor of an inexcusable egotism4 ,the man who professes to be a self-made man is always notorious for worshiping his maker4 ,we should1 of course1 always put our own impress upon all our work4 ,our observations on the methods of others should supplement but not supplant our own originality and our own reason4 ,a noted artist when asked how he mixed his paints to achieve such wonderful results1 replied3 8,i mix them with brains40 ,so must we use our own brains as well as the brains of others1 if we would succeed in this day of rapid improvements and sharp competition4 ,the information given in this book is not guess work1 but the result of long years of study and practice4 ,thirty-one years have ,i conducted a shop of my own4 ,during these years every recipe here given has been thoroughly tested4 ,we know they are all good4 ,part ,second is devoted to taxidermy1 which for twenty-three years ,i have connected with my other shop work4 ,i have preserved and sold hundreds of specimens1 and this work has proven a source of much pleasure and profit1 enabling me to turn many otherwise idle moments into money4 ,on this line ,i have not confined myself to taxidermic work alone1 but have also connected the tanning of hides with the hair on1 which ,i have manufactured into mats1 rugs1 etc4 ,hence this little book1 under a twofold title1 practically includes three trades4 ,we offer it as a money saving and money making investment4 ,the recipes and other information contained herein will enable any barber to make all his own preparations1 and to manufacture them for sale4 ,he may also connect taxidermy and tanning if it suit his pleasure and business4 ,historic ,sketch4 ,the word barber is derived from the ,latin word 8barba10 which means beard1 and hence is applied to one whose occupation is to shave and trim beards and cut hair4 ,the barber's craft is a very ancient one4 ,the practice of shaving was common among the ancient ,egyptians1 ,greeks and ,romans2 and was even mentioned by the prophet ,ezekiel1 chapter v1 #ast verse4 ,among the ancient ,israelites the removal of the beard by shaving or plucking was a sign of mourning4 ,it would seem that the origin of our trade was prehistoric4 ,in early times barbering was conjoined with surgery1 and the barber also served the public in the capacity of surgeon4 ,in ,france the barber-chirurgeons1 or barber-surgeons1 were separated from the perruquiers1 or wig-makers1 and were incorporated as a distinct body in the latter part of the #agth century4 ,in ,england barbers were incorporated with special privileges in #adfa1 and were afterwards united to the society of surgeons1 but were confined to the minor operations of blood letting and drawing teeth4 ,in #agde an act was passed1 the preamble of which declared the trade of the barber and the profession of surgery are foreign to and independent of each other4 ,this act practically divorced surgery from the barber's chair4 ,however1 quite recently the surgeons of the ,swedish navy were also barbers for the crew4 ,in former times1 not far remote1 it was customary to keep a lute or a violin for the entertainment of patrons1 which made the shop a favorite resort for idle persons4 ,in ,china and some other oriental countries1 barbers not only shave the face1 but they also shave the whole or a part of the head4 ,,barber',s ,,sign4 ,though barbering is now entirely separated from surgery1 yet a monument of their former union may be still seen in the striped pole and basin so often projecting from the front of barber shops4 ,the fillet1 or spiral strip around the pole symbolizes the winding of a ribbon round the arm previous to letting blood1 and its red color symbolizes the blood4 ,the basin1 yet sometimes seen at the base1 represents a vessel prepared to catch the blood4 ,barber's poles in this country are tri-colored4 ,the white symbolizes the arm1 the red represents the shed blood1 while ,americans have added the blue to complete our national colors4 ,recipes1 ,formulas1 ,etc4 ,,german ,,hair ,,dye4 ,the process here given comprehends a double formula1 and to insure satisfactory results1 the directions subjoined should be carefully followed4 ,no4 #a4 ,nitrate of ,silver #c drachms ,stronger ,water of ,ammonia ounce ,distilled or ,rain ,water ounce ,no #b4 ,pyrogallic ,acid #c drachms ,alcohol ounce ,distilled or ,rain ,water #f ounces ,,directions4--,formula ,no4 #a1 and formula ,no4 #b1 should each be put up in a separate bottle4 ,in compounding1 each of the first two ingredients should be combined and reduced to a solution and the water then added4 ,before using these preparations the beard or hair should first be thoroughly washed and dried4 ,then apply ,no4 #a with the fingers1 and when partly dried apply ,no4 #b with a tooth brush and a comb1 being careful to get the dye down to the skin4 ,if convenient let the party go out into the open air for an hour4 ,otherwise the hair should be thoroughly dried with a fan1 and washed with soap and soft water4 ,this formula was brought from ,germany by a ,st4 ,louis barber and sold to the author in #ahfi4 ,properly put up it is not only first-class1 but ,i have never found any other preparation equal to it4 ,,brown ,,hair ,,dye4 ,take four pounds of green walnut hulls4 ,put them in #a gallons soft water and boil down to three pints4 ,strain off through cloth until clear of sediment4 ,to one quart of this add one quart of alcohol1 and #c ounces of glycerine4 ,use as other restorers1 once a day until the desired shade is obtained4 ,the hulls should be gathered in ,august4 ,,quinine ,,hair ,,tonic ,,and ,,sea ,,foam4 ,the strong point in favor of this preparation as a sea-foam is that it acts at the same time as a tonic for the hair4 ,,formula4 ,alcohol #a pint ,glycerine ounce ,tincture of ,cantharides ounce ,aqua ,ammonia ounce ,sulphate of ,quinine #cj grains ,oil of ,cloves #a drachm ,rock salt 7or table salt7 ounce ,distilled or rain water #a pint ,,directions4--,when using as a sea-foam1 wet the hair and rub briskly with finger ends until the foam has disappeared4 ,then take a towel and rub partly dry4 ,when using as a dandruff cure1 sea-foam twice a week1 dampen the hair twice a day for two weeks1 after which use once a week as a sea-foam4 ,this will keep the scalp in fine condition4 ,after you have tried it you will use no other4 ,,cream ,,for ,,chapped ,,hands ,,and ,,face4 ,this recipe was given me by a druggist whom ,i have known for years4 ,its reliable and competent source is a sufficient guarantee3 ,,formula4 ,quince seed ounce ,distilled extract witch hazel #a pint ,glycerine pint ,alcohol pint ,powdered ,boracic ,acid #afj grains ,carbolic ,acid #cb drops ,perfume to suit4 ,,directions ,,for ,,making4--,first put quince seed in witch hazel and let stand twenty-four hours4 ,then strain through cheese cloth and add the other ingredients4 ,i know this to be good for the face after shaving4 ,,pythian ,,cream4 ,this is another preparation for the face and hands4 ,,formula4 ,gum ,tragacanth 7in flake7 ounce ,glycerine #d ounces ,distilled or rain water gallon ,,directions ,,for ,,making4--,put gum tragacanth in water and let stand till thoroughly dissolved1 and strain through a cheese cloth4 ,then add the glycerine and a sufficient amount of ,pythian bouquet to perfume4 ,color pink with powdered carmine4 ,it should be about the consistency of cream4 ,if too thick add more water4 ,there should be a half-gallon water to the four ounces of glycerine when finished4 ,,bay ,,cream4 ,the only difference between this and ,pythian ,cream is in the perfume4 ,some like the bay rum better4 ,,directions4--,use the formula of the preceding and then add perfume with the genuine oil of bay4 ,,cold ,,cream4 ,the only difference between this and the two preceding creams is that instead of perfume a compound of alcohol and menthol is used4 ,,directions4--,use the same body as for ,pythian ,cream1 and then add alcohol and menthol as follows3 ,put #f drachms of menthol crystals into an ounce of alcohol4 ,when the menthol is thoroughly dissolved add this combination to gallon of the cream4 ,the presence of the menthol gives this preparation a very pleasant cooling effect4 ,hence it is well named4 ,this cream may1 of course1 be perfumed if desirable4 ,instead of these face creams1 some customers will prefer the pure bay rum1 while perhaps many will prefer witch hazel4 ,these can1 of course1 be obtained from barber supply houses or from drug stores2 the witch hazel may be improved by adding to it a good cologne4 ,try two parts witch hazel to one part cologne4 ,,bay ,,rum4 ,no4 #a4 ,bay ,oil ounce ,oil of ,pimento ounce ,alcohol #c pints ,water #c pints ,no4 #b4 ,magnesium pound ,oil of ,bay pound ,mash them well together and put them in a filter and pour in two quarts of water4 ,let it filter slowly1 and then add #b quarts ,alcohol4 ,,imitation ,,of ,,bay ,,rum4 ,no4 #c4 ,oil of ,bay #c drachms ,oil ,pimento drachm ,water #a quarts ,acetic ,ether #a ounces ,alcohol #b quarts ,mix and let stand #c days1 then filter4 ,,camphor ,,ice4 ,oil of ,sweet ,almonds #b ounces ,white ,wax #b ounces ,spermaceti #c ounces ,gum ,camphor ounces ,mix together1 melt and pour off in small salve boxes4 ,,menthol ,,salve4 ,mutton ,tallow #a ounce ,lard #a ounce ,menthol 7in crystals7 #c drachms ,melt together and pour off in salve boxes4 ,both the ,camphor ,ice and the ,menthol salve are good for tender faces4 ,,silver ,,gloss ,,shampoo4 ,this is an economic and very satisfactory preparation4 ,,formula4 ,white ,castile ,soap 7the very best7 #a pound ,refined ,carbonate of ,potash pound ,distilled or rain water #a gallon ,table ,salt ounce ,refined ,carbonate of ,potash is also called ,pure ,salts of ,tartar4 ,i have found the ,english brands preferable4 ,,directions4--,shave the soap fine and put into the water 7as per above formula71 which should be contained in a porcelain vessel4 ,let it boil until soap is thoroughly dissolved and strain off into another vessel1 and then add the pure salts of tartar while still hot4 ,add the salt and enough more boiling water to replace the amount which has boiled away1 and continue to stir until it becomes only luke warm2 then add a few drops of the oil of cloves 7or some other perfume71 if desirable4 ,finally pour off in small jelly jars and set away for use4 #a gallon made in this way will make #e gallons of ordinary shampoo1 by simply adding #d gallons more of water4 ,this quantity should not cost over fifty cents4 ,a pound of the refined carbonate of potash costs twenty cents1 and a pound of castile soap only fifteen cents1 and the perfume will cost less than the remainder of #ej cents4 ,one teaspoonful is enough to clean any ordinary suit of hair4 ,in cleaning ladies' hair it is well to add a little ethylic ether1 commonly called sulphuric ether4 ,never use hard water4 ,if necessary save up enough rain water4 ,i give elsewhere directions for making shampooing outfit1 which may also be conveniently used for shower baths in shops and houses where there is no connection with water works4 ,water to be used for shampooing should always be warm4 ,,egg ,,shampoo4 ,this favorite preparation should be used immediately after mixing4 ,take #a fresh egg1 #a teaspoonful of silver gloss shampoo1 and teaspoonful of powdered borax4 ,mix together with an egg beater1 and then use as other shampoos4 ,a ,,cheap ,,sea ,,foam4 ,take #b ounces of the silver gloss shampoo1 #b ounces alcohol1 #a ounce glycerine and #a pint water2 shake well together and perfume to suit your fancy4 ,the shampoo or sea-foam can be colored a nice yellow by making a tea of saffron and water1 adding enough after straining it to get the desired color4 ,powdered carmine can also be used to color a red or pink color4 ,,brilliantine4 ,take #a ounce of good glycerine1 ounce of rose geranium and #a ounce water4 ,mix4 ,this preparation is a good one1 and can be made very cheap by using a less amount of the perfume4 ,it never separates1 and is good as long as there is a drop of it left4 ,,engraving ,,fluids4 ,we here give a formula for making an etching fluid1 to be used in marking razors1 shears and other steel tools4 ,,formula4 ,bluestone #a ounce ,table ,salt #a ounce ,water #f ounces ,,directions4--,cover blade or plate with soap or varnish1 and then with etching needle or common pencil write the name or letters desired1 being careful to score or scratch through to the metal4 ,then fill the traced lines with the fluid and let it remain five minutes4 ,the fluid will corrode the metal in the lines thus laid bare4 ,therefore when the covering and acid are washed off the lettering will remain4 ,be careful to wash promptly and dry thoroughly4 ,,black ,,heads4 ,what are known as black heads are generally found in the skin of people who are addicted to the use of much hog meat4 ,such people are also as a rule1 rather careless1 to say the least1 about bathing their faces4 ,a hint to the wise will be sufficient4 ,let them not be afraid a rough towel will scratch them4 ,i give below a recipe highly recommended4 ,,formula4 ,alcohol #d ounces ,boracic ,acid #b drachms ,distilled or rain water #a ounces ,apply this three times per day after first having thoroughly washed the face and rubbing dry with a coarse towel4 ,considerable benefit will1 at least1 be derived from a faithful application of the above4 ,,hair ,,bleaching4 ,first clean the hair with the ,silver ,gloss shampoo1 and when dry apply peroxide of hydrogen until damp4 ,when dry1 again repeat the application1 and continue to repeat it until nearly as light as desired4 ,the hair will continue to bleach a little lighter for about three days1 and hence it is necessary to discontinue the application when the hair is a shade darker than desired4 ,,whitening ,,for ,,the ,,face4 ,put #a ounce of the oxide of zinc into a plate and pour over it #c ounces of soft water4 ,mash zinc with a spoon until it is all dissolved4 ,pour the solution into a pint bottle and fill up with witch hazel4 ,when the weather is cold1 pure soft water may be used instead of the witch hazel2 but the preparation would sour in warm weather4 ,apply with a soft cloth4 ,,barbers' ,,itch4 ,fear of this disease causes many men to shave themselves1 and this class would otherwise be among the very best customers4 ,when these men observe how careless the average barber is with his towels1 mugs1 tools1 etc41 they become disgusted and purchase a shaving outfit and quit the barbers' chair1 except when they want a hair-cut4 ,i believe every barber should know how to treat this disease4 ,hence ,i will make a few suggestions as to its causation and treatment4 ,scabies1 or itch1 in its various forms is a disease caused by the irritation produced from the presence in the skin of what is called the itch mite and the ova of the same4 ,the cure involves the destruction of these parasites4 ,get a doctor1 if possible1 to prescribe2 if no doctor can be got who understands it1 ,i would try the following3 ,an ointment made from the flour of sulphur and lard or sulphur and vaseline1 is about the best remedy known4 ,rub in well at night and wash off in morning4 ,or take citron ointment #a ounce and mutton tallow #a ounce4 ,melt together and stir till cool4 ,this ,i have found one of the best salves for all skin diseases ,i have ever tried4 ,apply twice a day1 but use with care since it contains mercury4 ,,hair ,,oils ,,and ,,hair ,,dressings4 ,while oiling the hair is a thing of the past1 we might indulge a few remarks as a matter of history4 ,thirty years ago almost every customer used oil on his hair1 and every barber was expected to know how to mix his own oils4 ,a favorite preparation was made as follows3 #a pint of alcohol and #a pints of castor-oil were shaken together1 and then perfumed with citronella or bergamot4 ,another favorite was made of raccoon oil and lard mixed half and half1 and perfumed with the oil of cloves4 ,some used the coon oil straight2 others used the oil of birds1 geese1 chickens or ducks1 etc4 ,bear oil was considered a great oil for the hair as well as for many other purposes4 ,my own favorite among all the home made preparations was made from beef marrow4 ,the marrow was tried out and a little salt was added4 ,the oil was then perfumed with bergamot4 ,,pomades4 ,in selecting material for pomade1 have a butcher get you some fine leaf lard and some of the finest suet1 which should be taken from young animals4 ,render out separately in porcelain vessels and strain off4 ,,directions4--,take lard #a pound1 tallow #a pound2 mix them and heat gently1 and cook for one hour over a slow fire2 remove and let stand a few minutes to settle2 now pour off carefully4 ,when almost cold add some suitable perfume1 say oil of bergamot #d drachms1 oil of lemon #c drachms1 oil of cassia #b drachms1 oil of nutmeg #ge drops4 ,mix thoroughly with the pomade and pour into small jars4 ,,stick ,,pomades4 ,take of the prepared tallow #a pound1 pure1 clean bees wax #c ounces1 gum benzoin1 in a coarse powder1 #a drachms4 ,melt together with a slow heat1 mixing all the while4 ,when partly cooled add some suitable perfume4 ,pour it off in moulds and when cold take out and wrap in tin foil1 then put on a nice label as outer covering4 ,to make the above into a coloring pomade1 take #c pounds of the prepared lard and tallow1 before being perfumed2 add to it #b pounds of fresh walnut hulls1 cut up fine2 put into a porcelain vessel and heat gently for four hours4 ,take off and strain1 and proceed as in making the black pomade4 ,this will gradually color the hair or beard to a nice brown by being used daily until the desired shade is obtained4 ,,how ,,to ,,stop ,,blood4 ,every barber should have at hand a preparation for stopping blood4 ,the best of barbers are liable to bring blood from rough or tender faces4 ,an astringent pencil1 which is very good and very handy1 may be obtained from the barber supply houses in the cities at a cost of only #aj cents each4 ,however1 ,i prefer ,monsell's ,powdered ,iron which may be obtained from any drug store4 ,the only objection to it is1 it is liable to discolor the skin4 ,however1 by being careful to put on only a small amount1 it may easily be washed off when the blood has ceased to ooze4 ,if a small bump has been cut off or a shallow cut made in the smooth skin1 it will generally suffice to cover it with a thick lather and let it remain until the shaving is completed4 ,alum is also used but is too slow in its action4 ,,hair ,,restorers4 ,i could give a formula that would make the hair fall out1 but thus far ,i have not been able to find a preparation that will produce a new growth of hair on bald heads4 ,as a preventative treatment ,i might suggest as follows3 ,boil burdock root in soft water until strong1 and then add to one pint of it1 a half pint of alcohol1 a teaspoonful of salt1 and #a ounce of glycerine4 ,this used once a day will prevent the hair from falling out4 ,or make a strong decoction of black tea or sage and mix with the alcohol1 salt1 and glycerine as above and use as above4 ,the basis of most hair tonics is the tincture of cantharides1 quinine1 ammonia1 camphor1 and salt4 ,a solution of borax in camphor water is used by some as a stimulant for the scalp4 ,i have a friend who is experimenting on a new line with very encouraging prospects of successfully producing hair on bald heads4 ,if any party interested will address me a few months hence1 ,i may be able to advise them how to reproduce hair on bald heads4 ,,glass ,,hones4 ,a glass hone is easily made1 and no barber should be without one4 ,procure a piece of heavy plate glass and have a glass cutter cut it into pieces #ch inches in dimensions4 ,take the gloss off the face and also around the edges on a grindstone1 and then finish by rubbing the face of the hone with pumice-stone kept wet with water4 ,continue this rubbing until the gloss is entirely removed and the hone is smooth4 ,before honing take a rubber1 such as is used on a water hone1 and1 after wetting hone rub until you have a sort of lather4 ,hone on this as you would on any other hone4 ,you will find it excellent for smoothing shears after grinding1 or a razor after having been over honed4 ,,mugs1 ,,brushes ,,and ,,soaps4 ,the mug should be large and heavy and the brush used to make the lather should also be large and first-class in every particular4 ,in regard to brushes1 ,i would suggest that it pays to buy the very best4 ,a poor brush that is continually shedding hairs is very annoying to the customer1 and it hinders the barber4 ,i prefer the rubber ferruled brush1 but be sure to get the genuine4 ,in regard to soap ,i must admit that ,i am partial to the ,j4 ,b4 ,williams barber soap4 ,however1 there are other brands that give good satisfaction4 ,there are no soaps too good4 ,hence get the best4 ,,face ,,powders4 ,there is nothing much better than cake magnesia1 but it should only be used to dry the face after shaving4 ,i have given a liquid whiting which is much used by ladies4 ,i have often used it on men to whiten the skin4 ,see whitening for the face4 ,,shower ,,bath ,,and ,,shampoo ,,can4 ,take a common tin bucket which holds three gallons1 have a small tube one inch long and one quarter of an inch in diameter put in one side about one half inch from bottom of bucket4 ,then get a rubber hose three feet long of suitable diameter to fit on to the tube4 ,at the other extremity of the hose attach a sprinkler with its tubular end made to fit the hose4 ,connect the hose to bucket and the sprinkler to hose1 and the can is complete4 ,lay the sprinkler over the upper rim of can 7or bucket7 to keep the water from flowing out4 ,fill with soft warm water2 and1 when ready to take the bath or shampoo1 hang from ceiling or set on shelf high enough to allow the water to flow over the head and body4 ,put on the shampoo4 ,take the sprinkler and thoroughly wash and rinse4 ,three gallons of water used in this way is better than a whole bath tub full used in the ordinary way4 ,this apparatus of course applies to country places where they have not the advantage of water works1 or where the water furnished is hard4 ,,towels1 ,,hair ,,cloths1 ,,and ,,face ,,cloths4 ,if you would secure first-class trade1 you must keep a good supply of clean good looking towels4 ,nothing is more disgusting in a shop than a lot of dirty ragged towels4 ,the workmen may be first-class1 the tools first-class1 etc42 but unless the towels are in proper condition the better class of trade will go elsewhere4 ,i prefer a good moderate sized cotton towel1 except for the wash cloth1 where ,i prefer a cotton crash towel on the order of a bath towel4 ,this crash comes in bolts and may be cut the desired length2 it must1 however1 be hemmed4 ,for the bath always use a good towel but not too large4 ,the breast cloth made of calico or gingham1 should be full width of goods1 and not less than three and a half feet long4 ,it should have a half neck opening at one side made to fit up around the neck4 ,the hair cloth may be made of calico1 gingham or bleached sheeting4 ,if the sheeting is used get the goods wide enough to require no seam1 and then border with a two inch band of red oiled calico4 ,,suggestions ,,for ,,beginners4 ,in the first place1 if you have made up your mind to be a barber1 why not be a good one4 ,there is always room at the top1 and rich reward for him who has reached the top4 ,rich reward1 however1 is the price of self-exertion4 ,do not wait for a tidal wave to waft you on to success4 ,the minions of fortune are few and far between4 ,you must not only work but you must embrace every opportunity to improve your qualifications1 if you would achieve success in this age of advanced knowledge and skill4 ,you should always be on the alert1 and never miss an opportunity to acquire useful information4 ,knowledge is power1 and it behooves you to gain all the knowledge you can1 especially of your own business4 ,if necessary pay for it1 work for it1 or even beg for it4 ,the possession of a good fund of practical knowledge with other necessary qualities of mind and heart1 will enable one to wear good clothes1 make plenty of money and to have scores of friends2 while the lack of it will make another the digger of ditches1 living in rags and poverty1 and deprived of the more congenial companionship of the better and nobler elements of society4 ,knowledge pays4 ,moreover1 while you should attend well to the proper equipment of your mind1 you should not neglect the proper cultivation of your social character4 ,especially should you cultivate what might be termed a practical business social tact4 ,treat every customer as though your success depended upon him and him alone1 and always exert your utmost to do good work4 ,much depends upon the barber's ability to shave well4 ,to accomplish the great desideratum of being able to shave well each one of the various customers with their varying qualities of beard1 you must diligently study the temper of your razors with reference to the peculiar beard of each customer4 ,again much depends upon the lather1 the brush1 the hone1 the strop1 etc4 ,hence you will please pardon a few simple primary suggestions leading up to a good shave4 ,first you must equip yourself with first-class tools4 ,procure a first-class oil hone4 ,a large rubber ferruled lather brush4 ,a large heavy shaving mug4 ,a half dozen ,no4 #a razors1 #d to #d wide and concave4 ,your soap and all other materials and implements should be as good as you are able to buy4 ,when you hone your razor on the oil hone1 use good soap and make a stiff lather which you will spread on the hone4 ,then place the razor on the hone and draw very lightly from heel to point so that the edge of the razor will always be on the front side of the moving blade4 ,each stroke across the hone should be a sloping or sawing stroke1 and at the end of each the razor should be turned on the back and pushed up across the end of the hone1 and the other side of the blade laid flat on the hone4 ,then draw the razor back with a curving or angular stroke to the other end of the hone4 ,turn again as before and continue with steady stroke until you think the blade is sharp4 ,wet the thumb nail and try the edge by drawing it lightly from end to end4 ,should the edge feel blunt or rough make a few more strokes on the hone and try again1 and so on until the edge is satisfactory4 ,a better way to test the edge1 if you have a smooth soft hand1 is to wet the end of thumb or fore finger and draw the razor lightly over it feeling of the edge4 ,however1 it requires practice to tell with certainty by either method4 ,therefore practice carefully until you become expert4 ,we will here make a few suggestions in regard to the different hones generally used by barbers4 ,the oil hone1 which is supposed to be petrified hickory1 is the one most used1 and is perhaps the best4 ,second in rank and general use comes the ,swatty hone which is made from the same material as the emery wheel1 but it is of finer grade4 ,this is a very fast cutting hone4 ,next comes the water hone which is simply a fine grit stone1 and then comes the glass hone which is but little used4 ,a few barbers use it to take off the wire edge of over-honed razors4 ,hones should be handled with great care4 ,in honing the razor should be run well out to the ends to prevent hollowing the hone4 ,should a hone begin to hollow1 work it down with fine sand paper to a perfect face and smooth it with the rubber used on the water hones4 ,i prefer olive oil on an oil hone if carefully used4 ,of course lather may be used on an oil hone the same as on the ,swatty and glass hones4 ,use water on the water hone and rub with the rub stone commonly used until the surface is covered with a sort of soapy pasty lather before honing4 ,the glass hone may be used in the same manner4 ,any hone when not in use should be wrapped up and laid away carefully after having been washed and thoroughly cleaned4 ,you should be provided with a good shell strop1 or a good ,russian leather strop1 and also a good canvas strop4 ,after honing strop the razor lightly on the leather only4 ,the canvas should not be used except when the razor has become smooth4 ,when you have a customer in the chair1 first put a clean towel on him and proceed to make the lather using warm soft water4 ,lather the face and scour the beard1 and then lather again with a good heavy lather4 ,proceed to shave1 drawing the razor with a sawing stroke1 and make the strokes as long as practicable4 ,hold the skin tight to throw out the beard1 and go over the face the first time as quickly as possible4 ,then wash the soap from the face1 and go over it a second time1 keeping the skin somewhat stretched1 and wet with soft water4 ,when finished1 press a hot towel to the face and then use one of the face creams given in this book4 ,next powder the face1 and curl and perfume the mustache4 ,if you think his hair needs trimming tell him so1 and if he has it done1 do your very best1 even taking pains to cut the hair out of his ears4 ,shave his neck4 ,the most important point is to get a good edge on the hair4 ,if he takes a shampoo1 first give the scalp a good brushing to loosen the dandruff1 and then use ,silver ,gloss ,shampoo1 giving him to understand that you have it for sale for family use4 ,rinse hair with warm soft water1 and dry with a fine bath towel1 and then ask him if you shall apply some of the hair tonic which will cost him only ten cents extra4 ,comb his hair in the latest style1 and if he desires it1 color his mustache with the celebrated ,german ,hair ,dye4 ,help him into his coat1 and thanking him bid him come again4 ,purchase every good book pertaining to your business1 study diligently and practice what you learn1 and you will soon stand abreast with the best and most progressive barbers4 ,you should be prompted by no meaner ambition4 ,,success4 8,if you wish success in life1 ,make perseverance your bosom friend1 ,experience your wise counselor1 ,caution your elder brother1 ,and hope your guardian genius40 ,addison4 ,illustration ,taxidermist's ,manual4 ,by ,t4 ,j4 ,,mcconnaughay4 ,illustration ,taxidermy4 ,the word taxidermy is derived from the two ,greek words1 taxis1 which means arrangement1 and derma which means skin4 ,hence this term is applied to the art of preserving and mounting the skins of animals for ornamental and scientific purposes4 ,little is known of the origin of this art1 but it would seem from books of travel and natural history1 that it is at most1 not more than three hundred years old4 ,it began to be practiced in ,england about the beginning of the #ahth century1 which fact is proven from the 8,sloane ,collection0 which was formed in #ahbe1 as the nucleus of the present natural history collection lodged in the galleries of ,south ,kensington4 ,it was about the middle of the #ahth century that the first book devoted to the principles of taxidermy was published in ,france4 ,after this1 others appeared from time to time in ,france and ,germany1 but ,england contributed no literature on the subject until about the beginning of the present century4 ,in #ahbh an ,englishman named ,scudder1 established a museum of mounted specimens in an old alms house in ,new ,york ,city4 ,previous to this1 the art seems to have been absolutely unknown in ,america4 ,it was not till the exhibition of #ahea1 that the ,french and ,german taxidermists taught the ,english the principles of scientific treatment4 ,since that time several works have appeared from the pens of ,english and ,american authors4 ,prominently among the ,american writers1 were ,charles ,waterton and ,titian ,r4 ,peale who greatly improved the art in this country4 ,jules ,verreaux1 of ,paris1 brought the art to a still higher perfection1 and introduced methods for giving to specimens a life-like expression1 which elevated it quite to the realm of higher art4 ,great were his accomplishments in the art of expressing the actions and characteristic attitudes of the living animals4 ,since his day taxidermy has rivaled the plastic art1 and today1 it has reached such a degree of perfection that the most artistic and sthetic effects may be wrought by the hands of any operator who possesses artistic faculties4 ,the ,illinois ,state ,natural ,history ,society of ,bloomington1 published an illustrated pamphlet from the pen of one ,mr4 ,holder1 which is a very valuable contribution to taxidermic literature4 ,the author was doubtless greatly improved by his associations with ,audubon and ,bell1 and in his book he gives the results of a ripe experience4 ,this book ranks as one of the best yet published4 ,we submit the results of our own patient study and practical experience1 and hope it may prove a worthy addition4 ,,article ,i4 ,,on ,,skinning1 ,,stuffing ,,and ,,preservation ,,of ,,birds4 ,,skinning4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #c4 ,immediately after the bird is killed1 the nostrils1 throat and wounds should be stuffed with cotton to prevent the blood from oozing out and staining the plumage2 but should any blood get on the plumage1 it should be removed as soon as possible4 ,this can be done by taking a cloth or sponge and dipping it in clean water1 wringing it out so as to leave it only moist1 and rubbing the feathers gently until all traces of blood stain are removed4 ,now sprinkle the feathers with plaster of paris1 and shake out before it sets4 ,repeat this until they are perfectly dry1 and then wrap the specimen in paper to protect the plumage until ready to skin1 which should be done as soon as the bird cools4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #b4 ,in proceeding to skin a bird1 spread a cloth on a board or table and lay the bird on its back4 ,separate the feathers on the breast with a scalpel or knife4 ,insert the knife at the top of breast-bone and cut the skin from there to the tail4 ,great care should be taken not to cut too deep over the intestines1 as it is only necessary to cut through the skin4 ,now begin where you first inserted the knife and proceed to separate the skin from the flesh1 either with the fingers or the back of the scalpel or knife4 ,tear some small pieces of paper1 say about an inch square1 and put under the skin on the flesh as you get them separated1 which will keep the feathers from sticking to the flesh and becoming soiled2 or sprinkling cornmeal over the flesh and skin while skinning1 will answer the same purpose4 ,press carefully down each side to backbone4 ,now press the thighs forward and inward1 draw the skin from the thighs1 unjointing them at the first joint from the body4 ,the skin is now removed over the rump1 and the tail unjointed1 taking care not to injure the tail feathers4 ,now for convenience1 take a cord and fasten it to a nail on the wall or ceiling1 put a wire hook on the other end1 and fasten in the bird so you can suspend it high enough above the table to work on it easily4 ,now pull the skin downwards until you get to the wings1 which are to be unjointed at the shoulder joint4 ,it is then pulled down over the skull until the ears are reached4 ,here many valuable specimens are spoiled by cutting the ears too close to the skin1 so be sure to cut the ears close to the skull4 ,the eyelids are often spoiled also by inexperienced hands4 ,be sure and cut them well back and1 if necessary1 trim them afterwards4 ,now remove the eyeballs and unjoint the skull from the neck1 enlarge the opening at the base of skull1 where the neck came off1 and remove the brain with spoon made for that purpose4 ,now remove the flesh from the thigh bone down to knee joint1 and turn them back in place2 then skin the wings out to first joint and remove the flesh4 ,there is yet one job and the skinning process is completed4 ,divide the feathers on the under side of the wing between the second and third joints1 cut the skin1 and with a sharp knife cut out all flesh from the bone1 and put in some of the preserving powder2 cover it with a little cotton and sew it up1 being careful not to draw any of the feathers in2 press the feathers down smooth1 and see that each is in its proper place4 ,there are some birds with large heads and small necks4 ,with these we cannot draw the skin over the head1 but have to push the skin as near the head as it is possible1 and cut off the neck bone2 then make an opening under the throat large enough to turn out the skull and the remaining part of the neck bone1 and proceed to skin the skull1 take out brain1 etc41 as directed heretofore4 ,the flesh must be carefully removed from all parts of the skin1 and the preserving powder applied1 being very careful that all parts are well powdered4 ,if you now wish to mount the bird it can be done immediately4 ,,stuffing ,,birds4 ,in the first place take some plaster paris1 mix it with water to a stiff paste1 and fill the eye-sockets with it1 then press the glass eye in the paris1 using great care to set them in as near a natural position as possible4 ,when the plaster has hardened1 which it does very quickly1 if the skin has become dry1 dampen it with a damp sponge1 and turn it back over the skull1 then lay the bird on the table and proceed to put in the frame1 stuff and sew up4 ,i give three kinds of frames4 ,one is the wire and wood frame1 which you see on page #gh1 ,figs4 #i and #aj4 ,the others1 wire frames1 on page #hj1 ,fig4 #c1 for birds2 also ,fig4 #aa1 for humming birds and other small birds1 on page #gh4 ,take frame described ,nos4 #i and #aj1 having the leg wire ,,aa detached from body board1 fill the neck with tow1 being careful not to fill it too full2 run neck wire ,e through the center of the neck and pass it out at the top of head1 as shown in ,figs4 #b and #c1 or through one of the nostrils4 ,i prefer the latter1 because it does not break the skin and holds the head more steady4 ,then put the tail support ,e through the center or heavy part of the tail1 raise the body board and place under it some tow or cotton2 or pad the board by placing some cotton on it and tacking some cloth over it to keep the frame off from the back2 then take the leg wires1 ,fig4 #ac1 ,,aa and put them in the legs1 as shown in cut ,no4 #c1 and fasten on to the body board with blind staples1 as represented in cut ,no4 #c2 proceed with the stuffing2 finish filling out the neck and breast1 shaping it while filling1 using care not to get it too full1 as that is a fault of most beginners2 after filling it down to the opening1 the next should be the legs2 if the leg bone is left in from the knee up1 wrap it to the leg wire with a strip of muslin and tie it2 then stuff the leg up to the body1 fill the body and sew up2 in sewing be careful not to draw any of the feathers down with the thread4 ,after it is all sewed up1 place all the feathers down smooth and in their proper place1 as much depends on this4 ,next place the specimen on a board or perch2 if on a board1 procure a suitable one1 bore two holes the size of the leg wires through it1 then make a groove on the under side of board running off from each hole to lay wire down in2 place the specimen on the board1 running the leg wires through it1 and draw the wires down until the legs set in proper position1 bend the wires down into the grooves and fasten them with small blind staples4 ,in this connection one should use his own judgment in placing the bird on the board2 one leg should generally be placed a little in advance of the other4 ,if the bird is to be placed on a limb perch1 bore the holes through the limb1 place the bird on1 and draw the wires tight1 and drive a wooden wedge in beside the wire to hold it1 then file the wire off close to the under side of the perch4 ,pose the bird in as natural a position as you can1 imitating nature as near as possible4 ,place the wings in position1 then take a piece of wire heavy enough to hold the wings in place4 ,sharpen one end1 and make a square turn about one-fourth of an inch from the other end to keep it from pulling through the wing4 ,now place the wings in proper shape4 ,pass the wire through the wings and body in a way to hold them in shape4 ,pull the wire until the turn on the one end presses against the wing4 ,cut the wire on other side of bird and turn it back1 as on the other side1 so that the wire cannot be pulled either way2 then arrange the whole body--wings1 neck1 tail1 head1 etc4 ,in case the specimen is a web-footed bird1 take a thin piece of board1 say from a cigar box1 cut it to fit in between the toes1 and tack them in to hold the web in shape while drying4 ,this should be removed when dry4 ,after all is completed bathe the buts of wings1 the feet1 legs and beak1 with the preserving fluid2 this should be repeated for three or four days4 ,then let the specimen dry in a shady place4 ,it can then be placed on another board or perch and set in the cabinet4 ,,mounting ,,birds ,,on ,,wire ,,frame4 7,see directions for making frame47 ,skin the bird and prepare it as directed in this article4 ,fill the neck with tow1 put in neck wire1 letting the end come out through the nostril2 bend leg wires ,,aa back so as to get them in the legs2 run them down on the inside of the leg1 or through the center of leg bone1 and come out in the center of the foot4 7,see cuts ,nos4 #b and #c47 ,put tail support ,e through the under part of the tail1 and proceed as directed heretofore in this article1 to stuff1 sew up1 etc4 ,where the tow can not be secured and you have to use cotton in stuffing1 always put in the neck wire first1 and stuff around it or wrap the neck wire with strips of muslin1 old calico1 or anything that can be used for that purpose1 always being careful not to make the neck too large4 ,excelsior can be used to good advantage in stuffing large bodies4 ,,pelicans4 ,in dressing a pelican always use the board and wire frame4 ,for position1 copy after some picture of the bird1 which you can find in any natural history4 ,the only difference in dressing from the goose1 etc41 is they have a game sack under the lower jaw1 which is often as much as ten inches wide and sixteen inches long4 ,i find the best way to dress that is to take a fine shingle1 wide and long enough1 and trim it in the shape of a sleigh runner1 and put it inside of the pouch or game sack1 with the straight edge up and the square end toward the neck4 ,draw the pouch smooth over the shingle1 and tie the bill together1 then wet well with the solution of corrosive sublimate4 ,the board should be left in4 ,wire can be bent and placed in to answer the same purpose4 ,,pea-,,fowl4 ,in dressing a pea-fowl1 where the wings and tail have to be spread1 extra wires have to be put in4 ,the wires for the wings are fastened on to the body board1 as when used for the fore legs of animals4 ,then1 for the tail support1 take a wire about five feet long and bend it in a hoop shape1 leaving enough of the ends to extend into and fasten on the body board4 ,this must be put on the board before putting it in the body4 ,dress the bird as others1 letting the hoop or tail support extend out under the tail4 ,after it is all stuffed and set on the board1 bend the tail support up back of tail1 and fasten the feathers of the tail to it by tying them1 one at a time1 with a heavy thread1 in such a way that when all are fastened to the wire they will stand as when the bird was strutting4 ,arrange the wings and body to suit and let dry4 ,,dressing ,,birds ,,with ,,wings ,,spread4 ,to dress a bird with wings spread1 either flying or sitting1 it will be necessary to put in wing wires to hold the wings out4 ,the easiest way is to use the wire and board frame1 using the front leg wires as used in animals1 for the wings4 ,see ,figs4 #g and #h1 board and body frame4 ,in dressing a bird this way1 after skinning and wiring1 as directed for bird1 using frames #i and #aj1 put in the wing wires and fasten them to body board1 as directed for forelegs of animals4 ,if wishing to represent the bird as flying1 take four cords and fasten them to the back of the bird in a way that will balance it2 tie them together a few inches above the back and extend one cord longer than the others4 ,it can now be hung from the ceiling by the cord2 this will let the specimen turn about and present a fine appearance4 ,the feet should be placed in as near a natural position as possible as when flying4 ,in all large footed birds use plenty of the solution of corrosive sublimate or turpentine4 ,the carbolic acid and water mixture is also used1 and is good4 ,,to ,,clean ,,feathers4 ,as a test case take a bird after killing and smear it all over with blood1 let it lie until dry4 ,then put it in a basin1 and give it a good washing with soap and water1 then rinse it clean4 ,now take a dry cloth and wipe it until almost dry4 ,then sprinkle it with dry plaster of paris and shake it out before it has time to set4 ,repeat this powdering and shaking until it is perfectly dry1 and the feathers will look bright and nice4 ,try it4 ,,preservation ,,of ,,bugs1 ,,etc4 ,take a large moth fly or miller full of eggs4 ,make an incision on the under side of body and take out all the eggs and entrails4 ,now put in some of the preserving fluid and fill the cavity with cotton and sew it up4 ,then run a pin down through the body and pin it to a board4 ,arrange its feet1 moisten its body with the preserving fluid and the job is complete4 ,butterflies and small bugs need only the preparation over the body4 ,heavy bugs can be placed in a cup and the preparation poured over them4 ,let them lie in it a few hours and pin on board as directed in moth flies4 ,when dry place in a glass case4 ,,article ,,ii4 ,,of ,,skinning ,,animals4 ,as soon as an animal is killed1 take cotton and stuff in the wounds1 nostrils and mouth1 as directed in ,article ,i4 for birds2 then let it cool before commencing to skin4 ,in skinning a specimen be very careful about cutting holes in the skin1 and also not to stretch it by pulling on it while skinning4 ,all being ready1 lay the specimen on its back1 make an incision from the breast-bone back to the center between the hind legs1 being careful not to cut too deep over the abdomen4 ,divide the skin right and left1 putting cotton or paper on the body as the skin is removed1 or sprinkle with corn meal1 as directed for birds in ,article ,i1 to prevent the fatty matter from soiling the hair4 ,when you come to the hind legs1 pull the skin down over the thigh joint1 and unjoint it1 cut the leg off and skin down to the knee joint and unjoint there1 taking out all the flesh down to the foot1 then treat the other hind leg the same way4 ,now skin down over the rump and back to the tail4 ,the tail is hard to skin4 ,take a forked stick1 and after pressing the skin as far down on the tail-bone as possible1 holding the bone as tight in the fork as you can1 pull downward and the bone will slip out4 ,if the animal is not too large it should be swung up with a rope or cord tied around the body just in front of the hind legs1 or by attaching a hook to the rope which fastens into the flesh4 ,remove the skin down to the forelegs1 and unjoint them at the body1 and skin out in the same manner as directed for the hind legs1 unjointing at the knees4 ,now skin the neck and head1 and when you come to the ears cut them close to the skull2 fine specimens are often spoiled by cutting them too far out from the skull4 ,we next come to the eyes4 ,be careful not to cut the eyelids4 ,it is better to cut close to the skull and trim afterwards than to risk spoiling them4 ,remove the skin4 ,unjoint the neck close to the skull1 enlarge the opening at the base of brain and remove all the brains4 ,take out the eyes and tongue and remove all flesh from the skull4 ,this completes the skinning1 except when the animal has horns4 ,in that case1 proceed as above until you come to the neck4 ,skin as far forward as you can and unjoint the neck at skull4 ,then cut across from one horn to the other and loosen the skin around the horns4 ,then make another cut from between the horns backwards along the neck far enough to make the opening large enough to take the skull out2 skin out the skull and the skinning is completed4 ,the flesh must now be cleaned from the skull by boiling until tender1 then scraping it1 or simply by cutting and scraping it4 ,take out the brains1 eyes1 etc41 we are now ready to anoint the whole inside of skin1 skull1 etc41 with the preserving powder4 ,put in the frame and stuff the body if ready2 if not1 the ears1 nose1 feet and lips must be well wet with the preserving fluid and laid away in a cool1 dry place4 ,,stuffing ,,and ,,mounting ,,animals4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #d4 ,after the skin is prepared1 we will begin by preparing the skull4 ,after cleaning as directed anoint it with the preserving powder1 then put in suitable eyes1 as directed in birds4 ,now if the legs are large enough to take in the leg wires1 drill holes through the ends large enough to receive said wires4 ,next divide the skin of ears out to the points and place a piece of tin in them the shape of ear4 ,now turn the skin of head inside out and sew up the mouth1 draw the under lip up under the upper lip and sew it there so as when turned back the stitches will not show4 ,next stretch the hide on the bench and measure it4 ,in order to make the wire frame as shown and described in wire frames1 ,nos4 #d and #f1 make the frame of suitable malleable wire1 and place it in as shown1 except the neck wire should be passed out at nostril4 ,first put the skull in place and pass the neck wire through the nose4 ,then pass the leg wires out through the leg bones1 or on the inside of skin where the bone is not large enough to receive it4 ,now cut the tail wire long enough to reach to end of tail and put it in place4 ,now1 if the skin has not been previously prepared with some of the preserving preparations1 powder the whole inside with the arsenic and alum4 ,however1 the head and legs have to be prepared before putting in the frame4 ,we are now ready for the filling4 ,stuff cotton in around the leg wires to make the legs proper shape1 being careful not to get it in too tight4 ,take some sand and mix some arsenic with it2 fill the tail with this1 placing some cotton at base of tail to hold the sand in4 ,now stuff the neck and body with any suitable material1 shaping and sewing up as you proceed4 ,examine the head1 and where it needs filling out pass the cotton in through nose and ears1 and shape it as in life1 arranging the ears1 nose and mouth4 ,now pose the specimen as you wish it to remain1 and place it in a cool1 dry place to dry4 ,the leg wires should be bent so as to allow the foot to rest on board1 and when dry the wires should be cut off at bottom of feet1 and the projecting neck wire at end of nose should also be cut off4 ,anoint the feet1 nose and ears with the preserving fluid once a day for a few days4 ,the wood and wire frame is used in heavy animals1 the wood simply taking the place of the wire along the back4 ,by examining the cuts it is easy to see how they are to be used4 ,wishing to stand animals1 such as squirrels1 groundhogs1 etc41 on the hind legs1 they have to remain on a block or perch2 so procure a suitable block or perch1 and varnish it before putting the specimen on4 ,animals and birds can be stuffed with hay1 or anything that you can get into them in good shape4 ,i often mow fine bluegrass and dry it carefully1 and find it makes splendid stuffing1 especially for the bodies of animals and large birds4 ,excelsior also makes a good filling4 ,,on ,,mounting ,,deer ,,heads4 ,in mounting a deer's head to look life-like 7having horns on71 proceed to skin1 anoint with the preserving powder1 build up the nose with plaster of paris1 put in the eyes1 sew up the mouth and neck1 for which see directions in another article4 ,now take a #bd-;inch piece of pine for a neck support4 ,fit the end of it in the brain pit with plaster of paris4 ,when the plaster has hardened sew up the mouth as directed in cat4 ,draw the skin up over the skull and sew the skin together1 drawing it close around the horns4 ,the skin being opened on back of neck1 sew it up to within six inches of back end4 ,now make a board to fit in back end of neck skin1 and fasten it to the neck support in such a way as to hold the head on wall as desired4 ,tack the skin around the board1 being careful not to draw the hair down4 ,stuff the neck and finish sewing up4 ,cut the skin off at back of board4 ,arrange the whole head as directed in the cat and set away to dry4 ,see that the ears and eyes are all right1 and use plenty of the preserving fluid4 ,when the head is completed make a suitable shield to place on back end of the neck2 this should be of a neat pattern and nicely polished4 ,fasten this on to neck board with screws1 then on the wall1 also with screws1 which should be passed through the shield1 under edge of hair1 to conceal the heads of screws4 ,,article ,,iii4 ,a ,,simple ,,method ,,of ,,skinning1 ,,stuffing ,,and ,,preserving ,,fish4 ,,fish ,,dressing4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #a4 ,take a scale fish1 say one that weighs two pounds1 more or less1 and if a fish on which the scales are tight1 you can skin and dress it without losing any of the scales2 but if a loose scaled fish1 it will be better to protect them as follows3 ,take some tissue paper and press it gently on one side of the fish1 then turn it over and treat the other side in the same manner4 ,the natural glutinous matter which covers the scales will be sufficient to make it adhere firmly4 ,without this precaution the skin could not be removed from some fish without losing the scales1 which would ruin the specimen4 ,when these papers dry1 lay the fish on its back1 take a pair of scissors and open the skin down the center of the belly1 beginning close up the gills and running clear back to the end of the body4 ,the skin should now be taken off with great care1 using a smooth-edged knife for skinning1 and a pair of scissors to clip the fins and other fine bones with4 ,after the body has been skinned1 take out the gills1 tongue and eyes4 ,it is now ready for the preserving powder1 which should be spread or dusted over the inside of the skin1 being careful to reach all parts around the gills1 in the mouth1 eye sockets1 etc4 ,we now insert the frame ,e 7see cut ,no4 #a71 which is simply a wire bent as shown in the cut1 and sew up1 beginning at the tail and ending at the gills1 leaving the ends ,,ee of frame projecting1 as represented in cut ,no4 #a4 ,we now proceed to fill the body with plaster paris4 ,mix up a sufficient quantity1 take a funnel1 open the gills or mouth and insert the tube of the funnel therein1 and pour in enough plaster paris to fill the body4 ,handle the body carefully1 and shape it properly1 while the plaster is setting1 being careful to keep the frame ,,ee straight with the body4 ,when the plaster has set 7or hardened71 bore two holes in a rough board to set the frame rods ,,ee in1 which will hold the body up off the board4 7,see cut47 ,now proceed to stuff the head with cotton1 being careful not to press the gills out of shape1 then draw the mouth together with a thread and tie it4 ,fill the eye socket with plaster paris or putty1 and set the eye in the proper position4 ,we are now ready for the fins and tail2 if they have become dry1 wet them with water and spread them out2 then take a needle and thread and draw them up1 as shown in cut ,no4 #a4 ,to make the frame1 take a rough board1 say one inch longer than the fish you intend to dress4 ,for a fish a foot long1 the board should be one inch thick and about three inches wide1 and for larger fish in the same proportion1 or large enough to support the fish4 ,to one end of the board nail a piece of lath a foot long 7see ,d in cut72 on the other end nail a block 7,c in cut71 to which nail an upright piece 7,b in cut74 ,tack the tail to the upright 7,b7 with tacks 7,p74 ,raise the upper fins by drawing a thread through them and tying to upright piece1 as shown in cut4 ,drive two nails in board 7,a71 as shown 7,,gh71 to which fasten threads attached to lower fins as shown in cut4 ,set away to dry and when thoroughly dry wash the whole body1 take off the tissue paper4 ,when the fish gets dry1 dampen all the outer surface with corrosive sublimate and set away4 ,take off the threads and place it on a nice1 smooth board and give a light coat of varnish4 ,the specimen is then ready for the cabinet4 ,should you prefer to stuff the body with cotton instead of using plaster paris1 proceed as follows3 ,after skinning as directed1 make a frame1 ,,ee1 and take a straight piece of wire long enough to reach from the point of the nose to the other end of the body1 fasten this to the frame1 ,,ee1 at the upper end1 by wrapping them together with a small wire or cord1 leaving the frame ,,ee as near the center as possible4 ,take cotton or tow and wrap the wire that is to run lengthwise of the body1 say one-fourth as big as the body1 then insert it in the skin and proceed to stuff with cotton1 being very careful to get the natural shape4 ,when this is completed1 proceed to sew up and mount as directed when dressed with plaster paris4 ,the ,gar fish makes a fine specimen1 by simply filling the skin with dry sand while drying1 and let it out when dry4 ,,article ,,iv4 ,,hunting ,,specimens ,,and ,,care ,,of ,,same4 ,in hunting specimens1 birds or animals1 it is best to take a double-barreled shot-gun1 have your cartridges loaded some with fine shot1 and some with coarse2 keep one barrel loaded with one number and the other barrel with the other number1 then you are ready for either small or large game4 ,have some cotton and old newspaper with you1 and as soon as you kill a specimen1 stop up the shot holes with the cotton1 and it is sometimes best to stuff some in the nostrils and mouth4 ,if any blood has run out on the hair1 or feathers1 as the case may be1 wipe it off carefully1 then wrap the body in paper and pack it in the game sack1 using all care not to bend1 break or soil the feathers1 for if once soiled it is hard to make the work look well again4 ,on removing the birds from the game sack1 if there is any blood on the feathers1 wash it out with clear water1 and wipe until nearly dry2 then sprinkle with plaster of paris and shake until dry4 ,in this way the feathers will look smooth and natural2 but if1 after washing1 you let them dry without stirring1 they will present a bad appearance4 ,where the blood has remained on the feathers they must be well washed and treated as directed in a test case as given at close of ,article ,i4 ,,article ,v4 ,,wood ,,and ,,wire ,,frames4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #i4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ac4 ,the above cuts represent my wood and wire frames for animals and birds4 ,fig4 #g is ,fig4 #h reversed2 ,fig4 #h1 showing the way the neck and tail supports ,,ee are fastened to the body board with blind staples4 ,fig4 #g shows the way the leg wires ,,aa are fastened in the same manner4 ,in making the frame1 measure the animal from shoulder to hip1 and cut the board a little longer than the measure taken2 round the corners as shown in cuts1 and round the upper edges to keep them from cutting the skin should it come in contact with it4 ,now take a wire or rod long enough to reach from the end of the tail to the end of the nose1 bend the wire as shown in ,fig4 #h1 and fasten it to the body board with blind staples1 unless the specimen be a large one1 then it will be necessary to put them on with strong wire staples4 ,next bend the wires for legs as shown in ,fig4 #ab1 which should not be fastened to the board until after being placed in the legs of the animal being dressed4 ,they are then bent up as shown in ,fig4 #ac and fastened to the body board with staples to suit4 ,the frame for birds is made in the same way1 excepting the forelegs1 which is used on bird frames only when wanting to spread the wings4 ,fig4 #aa is a single wire frame1 to be bent in the manner shown1 and to be used in dressing small birds4 7,see small bird page #e74 ,,article ,,vi4 ,,for ,,birds ,,and ,,animals4 ,,wire ,,frames4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4 ,the above frames are made as follows3 ,take a straight wire and turn a loop in the center as shown at ,b1 ,fig4 #a4 ,take another wire about the same length and bend it as shown in ,fig4 #b4 ,now run ,fig4 #b wire through the loop ,b in ,fig4 #a down to bend ,e1 fasten them in a vice at the loop ,b in ,fig4 #a1 and plait the three together as shown in ,fig4 #c4 ,to form the ,fig4 #d frame1 make another loop two or three inches or further up the neck wire ,e1 bend another wire as ,fig4 #b1 put this through the loop1 and plait together as in ,fig4 #c4 ,this forms the frame for animals1 as shown in ,fig4 #d4 ,for ,figs4 #e and #f1 lay three wires together as shown in ,fig4 #e1 put them in a vise and twist or plait together as shown in ,fig4 #f4 ,this forms three wire frames--,figs4 #c1 #d and #f4 ,the advantage ,fig4 #d frame has over ,fig4 #f1 is that it is easier bent in the center1 there only being one wire4 ,,article ,,vii4 ,,moles4 ,it is not necessary to give more than one way to dress a mole4 ,an expert can skin1 stuff and sew up a mole in ten minutes in the following manner3 ,after killing a mole1 let it cool2 then make an incision along the abdomen1 commencing at the tail and running forward two inches1 or about to the center of the body4 ,skin out the hind legs1 bone and flesh1 down to the foot and unjoint4 ,press the skin back to the tail and unjoint it close to the body4 ,pull the skin off the body1 taking care of front feet1 not to pull them loose from the skin2 unjoint them1 or break the arm bone close to the foot2 skin on down to mouth and cut the body loose1 leaving only the jaw bones in the skin4 ,spread on the whole skin all the preserving powder that will stick to it1 and turn the skin back inside out4 ,turn the hind legs and proceed to fill the body with cotton1 using a wire to stuff the cotton in with1 as in all other animals1 being careful not to stretch the skin1 and also not to get the cotton knotted up4 ,after the body is filled sew it up and place on a board to dry4 ,place the feet in position1 and wet them and the tail and nose with the solution of corrosive sublimate4 ,other small animals1 such as rats1 mice1 ground squirrels1 gophers1 etc41 can be dressed in the same manner4 ,after stuffing smooth the hair and shape the body before laying away4 ,,article ,,viii4 ,,mode ,,of ,,dressing ,,and ,,preserving ,,turtles4 ,a good sized turtle may be thoroughly preserved without the tedious process of unjointing1 skinning1 digging out the flesh1 sewing up1 etc41 by observing the following directions3 ,take a snapping1 or any other hard shell turtle1 say one that measures ten inches across the back1 or smaller1 down to the smallest4 ,the first thing to be done is to kill it1 which is the hardest part of the operation1 as it clings to life tenaciously1 and large ones are very strong and hard to manage4 ,one way is to get it to open its mouth1 and catch it by the under jaw with a pair of strong pliers1 hold its mouth open and make it swallow a quantity of the solution of corrosive sublimate2 this being a deadly poison1 it will soon kill it4 ,another way is to hold its head as far out as you can pull it1 and stick it as close to the under shell as you can1 running the blade well back into the body4 ,it takes some time for it to die after being stuck4 ,and still another way is to open its mouth and stick a knife blade up through the roof of the mouth into the brain4 ,i prefer the poisoning1 as it seems to die easier and quicker1 and it does not disfigure it4 ,as soon as it dies1 lay it on its back1 and make an opening in the skin1 under one of the back legs1 large enough to take out all the entrails2 now take a pair of pliers or a hook 7made for the purpose72 pull out all the entrails1 liver1 heart1 etc4 ,if the specimen is a large one1 pour in some water and rinse out thoroughly1 then put in a lot of the preserving powder1 being careful to get it well distributed through the body4 ,then take some cotton and dust it well with the preserving powder1 and fill up the inside1 pressing the cotton in tight1 filling the body full and sew up4 ,now open the mouth and pour some of the solution of corrosive sublimate down its throat1 and press some cotton sprinkled with the powder down its throat1 being careful not to stretch the neck out of proportion4 ,remove the eyes and insert the artificial eyes in their stead2 fill the mouth with cotton and close it4 ,cut a hole in the bottom of each foot1 and probe the legs with a knife or the blunt end of a wire2 pour in some of the solution of corrosive sublimate1 or work in enough of the powder to preserve the flesh2 if the tail is a large one1 it should be treated in the same way1 and all sewed up4 ,now set it on a board and tack the feet to the board in as near the way it would hold them while walking as you can4 ,pull the neck out a very little1 and put a little block or a small roll of cotton under it to hold it up in position while drying4 ,before putting it on the drying board1 take a small paint brush1 pour out some of the solution of corrosive sublimate in a dish and give the whole outer surface a thorough wetting4 ,this should be repeated once a day for several days4 ,this completes the dressing4 ,after the specimen is dry1 take it off the board and set in the cabinet4 ,another way3 ,after killing1 as directed1 lay the specimen on its back and unjoint the breast shell from back shell with a chisel or heavy knife blade2 open the skin from the front part of the foreleg back and around to front of the other foreleg1 cutting under the legs4 ,skin out all the flesh and bones of the legs and unjoint them at the foot1 skin out the tail1 then unjoint the neck bone from backbone1 and skin it out and unjoint at the back of the skull4 ,take the flesh from back and breast shells1 then anoint all parts with the preserving powder4 ,take a frame as ,fig4 #h1 in article ,v1 of the wire and wood frame1 and put in legs1 neck and tail1 as directed in animals1 letting the neck wire pass out through the mouth or nostril4 ,stuff the legs1 neck and tail with cotton or tow1 and sew up the sides1 leaving an opening to stuff the body2 fill the body1 then finish sewing up4 ,in stuffing the legs1 neck and tail be careful to keep the wires in the center of each4 ,open the mouth and take out the eyes from inside and put in the glass eyes2 put some cotton back of them to hold them in place while drying4 ,close the mouth1 and wet the whole body with the solution of corrosive sublimate4 ,this should be done once a day for several days4 ,place the specimen on a board to dry4 ,for position1 copy after nature as near as possible4 ,after the skin is dry a coat of varnish adds much to its appearance4 ,,article ,,ix4 ,,killing ,,and ,,dressing ,,snakes4 ,to kill a snake without bruising or breaking the skin is a difficult undertaking1 for1 as a general thing1 we are not looking for snakes1 therefore we are not prepared to capture one4 ,when we do run across them1 we generally kill them with the first thing we get hold of4 ,if the snake is not too large1 strike it across the back with a small stick4 ,this disables him1 and you now have time to prepare to finish him4 ,watch your chance and when the opportunity presents itself1 tap it on the head a few times1 and you can soon kill it without bruising4 ,when it is dead1 open its mouth and cut the tongue and fangs out1 then unjoint the backbone from the skull and skin back on the body an inch or two1 turning the skin inside out4 ,tie a cord to the skinned part of the body and pull on this with your right hand1 while with your left hand you pull the skin off from the body1 which is easily done if the snake is not too large in the center of the body2 in that case it must be opened in the largest part of the body4 ,make the opening on under side of body1 lengthwise of the snake1 and long enough to allow you to remove the skin all around the body1 then cut the body in two4 ,skin out both ends1 unjointing the body close to the skull1 turn the skin right side out and sew up the opening1 taking short stitches4 ,now mix some plaster paris and water1 leaving it thin enough to run2 place a funnel in the mouth and pour the plaster in until the body is full4 ,lay the snake on a level board and coil it before the plaster gets dry1 placing the head in the position in which you want it to remain4 ,take out the eyes and put in the glass ones2 then wet the whole skin with the solution of corrosive sublimate4 ,this should be repeated once a day for three or four days4 ,another method is to skin and sew up as directed1 then take a long wire and stuff the body with cotton or tow1 being careful to get the stuffing in smooth1 so that no lumps will show on the outside4 ,another way is to fill the body with sand1 and when the skin has thoroughly dried1 make a hole in the under part of the body and let the sand run out4 ,in either of the above modes the snake should be coiled as soon as stuffed in the shape you want it to remain1 and plenty of the solution of corrosive sublimate used over the skin4 ,eels1 frogs and toads are skinned and stuffed in the same manner as the snake1 no frames being used4 ,,article ,x4 ,,dressing ,,alligators4 ,take an alligator1 say five feet long1 make an incision the full length of the body1 on the under side1 and skin out all the flesh and bones1 as recommended in skinning animals4 ,scrape off all the fat or flesh that may be left on the inside of the skin1 and give it a thorough coat of the preserving powder4 ,now proceed to stuff it without using any frame4 ,first stuff the legs with cotton or tow1 pressing it in very tight--their skin being very tough1 there is no danger of stretching it4 ,sew the neck up1 down to the front legs1 and stuff tight2 now sew up the tail to hind legs and stuff it2 then take a piece of pine board1 say an inch thick1 two inches wide1 and twelve inches long1 place this inside of the skin1 draw the edges together over it1 and tack both edges close together on the board1 fill the body up to the end of this board1 and put in another board in the same way1 and again stuff2 when the full length of the opening is closed up in this way1 before putting in the last section1 have the body thoroughly stuffed and put the section in afterward4 ,the advantage in putting in the board is this3 ,it is almost impossible to sew the skin1 and as it is to lay flat1 it is much easier to use the boards2 they could also be used in the neck and tail1 if you wish to lay them straight with the body4 ,lay the specimen on a flat board1 and place his feet and tail as you wish to have them4 ,the eyes should now be removed1 some of the solution of corrosive sublimate put in the sockets1 then put the glass eyes in with putty or plaster paris4 ,close the mouth and set a block under the jaw to hold it up while drying4 ,give the body a thorough wetting with spirits of turpentine1 repeating it once a day for three or four days4 ,after the skin becomes well dried give it one or two coats of varnish and you have a fine specimen4 ,,article ,,xi4 ,,description ,,of ,,foot-,,stool4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #e4 ,letter 7,a7 represents the covering1 7,b7 the moss or hair filling1 7,c7 the bolt which fastens the horn to the stool brace1 7,d7 the tap of said bolt1 7,e7 the wooden base of stool1 7,f7 a small rod or nail set in the plaster paris1 7,g7 a rivet through the horn1 7,h7 head to bolt1 7,j7 plaster paris in the horn4 ,,directions ,,for ,,making ,,the ,,stool ,take three cow horns of good shape and size2 rasp them and sand-paper down1 as hereafter directed in ,article ,,xii2 then1 after deciding what height you want the legs1 make a frame to saw them off on1 as illustrated and directed in ,article ,,xii1 cut ,no4 #f4 ,after sawing off1 drill a hole through in the horn about three-quarters of an inch from the large end4 ,this hole should be large enough to take in a ten-penny nail4 ,put the nail through and file it off even with the horn on both sides1 and rivet it with a small riveting hammer4 ,now level up the ends of the horns where they were sawed off1 by taking a coarse piece of sand-paper1 and laying it on a level board1 rub the ends of the horn round and round on it until it is perfectly level4 ,now take the bolt ,c1 of size and length to suit the horn1 put it down in the horn to see that it will suit2 sometimes it has to be bent in the shape of the horn2 after fitting it to the horn1 leaving about #a inches projecting out to go through the wooden base ,e and leaving room for the tap ,d4 ,now mix some plaster paris and water until about as thick as it will run2 pour this in the horn until nearly full1 put in the bolt1 as shown1 and while the plaster paris is yet soft1 take an eight-penny wire nail and push it down head first in the plaster paris1 leaving about half an inch sticking out2 this nail and the bolt should both come straight up from the level of the end of the horn4 ,when the plaster is partially dry1 level up around the bolt and nail at the end4 ,the horn should now be polished as directed in ,article ,,xii4 ,the next is the wooden base ,e2 have a board turned or cut round1 say twelve inches across and one inch thick4 ,this should be made of walnut1 or some other hard wood1 but when the hard wood can not be procured pine will do4 ,if pine is used it should be painted1 or stained and varnished on the under side1 and if walnut it should be sand-papered1 filled and varnished4 ,now strike a circle within about two inches of the outer edge and bore three holes at equal distances apart and set in the bolts2 when you get them in the position you want them1 press down on them to get the imprint of the nails ,f1 then remove the horns and bore a hole the size of the nails ,f4 ,now put the bolts in again and screw the top on tight4 ,the nail ,f is to keep the horns from turning around and getting out of place4 ,see that the butt of horn fits tight to the wooden base ,e4 ,,upholstering ,,foot-,,stool4 ,go to a saddler and get either curled hair1 deer hair1 or moss sufficient for a heavy pad2 lay it on the floor and beat all the dirt out of it1 then pick it all apart to get all the matted lumps out1 lay it on the stool top and pile it up about a foot high while loose1 take a piece of muslin or drilling1 lay it on top of the moss or hair and draw all the four corners down tight1 tacking them about the center of the edge of the wooden base ,e1 then draw it all down and tack in the same manner1 drawing very tight1 being careful to get it round and even and leaving no wrinkle4 ,in case the moss is not evenly distributed1 take a long awl and run it through the covering and carefully distribute it4 ,next in order is the outside covering1 which should be a fine piece of silk plush or velvet4 ,get a piece large enough to work some fine flower or motto in the center1 then put it on in the same manner as the first1 only tacking it down near the lower edge of the wooden base ,e2 by being careful you can get it on without wrinkling it4 ,the tacks should be small and very close together4 ,put a piece of braid around the edge and tack it on with upholstering tacks and the stool is completed4 ,,sawing ,,off ,,horns4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #f4 ,cut ,no4 #f is to illustrate a frame on which to cut horns to be used for footstool legs4 ,without a frame of this kind it is almost impossible to cut them to set level with stool and floor4 ,in fact1 it is more difficult than it would be for a carpenter to cut molding to fit corners1 etc41 without a mitre box4 ,it is very simple and is made as follows3 ,for a frame large enough to cut four horns1 take a fencing board and cut off a piece from it two feet long4 ,the board is supposed to be about six inches wide and one inch thick4 ,saw off another piece the same length and nail it to the edge1 as shown in cut4 ,this we will call the back of frame and the other the bottom4 ,the back then is five inches high1 measuring from bottom board up4 ,this completes the frame as shown4 ,the horns are now placed on the frame and nails driven around them into the frame to hold them firmly in place4 ,place the horns close together in setting on the frame and pour plaster paris over the points of all1 as shown in cut horn ,a4 ,after the plaster paris has thoroughly hardened1 saw off another piece of the same board and nail it to front edge of bottom board1 and proceed to saw off the horns level with the upper edge of back and front boards1 as in horn ,a4 ,should you want the legs longer or shorter1 take wider or narrower boards for back and front of frame4 ,after taking the horns from the frame1 proceed to put in the wire through the butt of horn and rivet it2 then put in the bolt and nail ,f 7as directed in a former article7 and fill the horn with plaster paris1 as shown in the above cut 7,c74 ,the horn is now ready1 after polishing1 to be placed on the stool4 ,it can also be placed on a board and used for a hat hook1 or for holding back window curtains1 etc4 ,,article ,,xii4 ,,directions ,,for ,,polishing ,,horns1 ,,hoofs1 ,,etc4 ,go to a hardware store and buy two good wood rasps1 flat on one side and round on the other2 then get three grades of emery or sand-paper1 say ,no4 #a1 ,no4 #j1 ,no4 #jj2 then go to a drug store and buy ten cents' worth of sweet oil and ten cents' worth of rotten stone4 ,get an old felt hat and an old case knife and you are ready for business4 ,take of either horns or hoofs1 several at a time1 and put them in an old pot or kettle of boiling water1 let it boil until they become soft1 which usually takes about half an hour2 take out one at a time and rasp it until it begins to cool and harden1 put it back and take out another1 and keep this up until all are rasped down to the shape you want them4 ,now take one at a time in the same manner and scrape them until they are scraped smooth of all rasp marks1 using the case knife for the scraper1 the edge of which has been ground square off like that of a shear blade4 ,now take the ,no4 #a sand-paper and sand-paper down1 then use the ,no4 #j1 and finally finish up with the ,no4 #jj1 rubbing-lengthwise of the horn4 ,we are now ready for the finishing touch4 ,take a piece of felt sufficiently large to rub with1 pour some of the sweet oil on it1 then dust with the rotten stone1 and give the horn a thorough rubbing1 putting more of the rotten stone on occasionally1 and keep up the rubbing until you get a high polish4 ,such a polish will remain on for years4 ,another way to polish horns3 ,fasten them firmly on a bench or to the wall4 ,take a strip of ticking or felt about three inches wide and three feet long4 ,wet it in water and sprinkle powdered emery over both sides4 ,take hold of both ends1 place it around the horn and draw backwards and forwards1 around and around1 until the horn presents a smooth surface2 then take another strip of the same description and use in the same manner1 except using rotten stone instead of the emery4 ,there are different grades of the emery1 and only the finest is to be used in polishing2 a coarser grade can be used in the same manner in the place of sand-paper1 and is very good4 ,,coloring ,,horns4 ,if you wish to give a horn a flesh color1 secure a very light colored horn1 rasp and scrape it down very thin1 and polish so that the horn is transparent4 ,get some red paint 7with plenty of dryer in it7 give the inside of the horn a coat of the paint1 and set it away to dry4 ,before applying the paint1 wash the horn out well with soap and warm water and dry well4 ,the above gives a beautiful flesh color1 which will last for years1 especially when filled with plaster paris4 ,,to ,,remote ,,plaster ,,paris ,,from ,a ,,horn ,,and ,,to ,,make ,,the ,,horn ,,round4 ,after the plaster paris has become thoroughly dry it is very hard2 therefore to cut it out with a chisel is very tedious2 but it often has to be done4 ,if the inside of the horn is smooth and a little tapering1 it is very easy to remove by boiling it until the horn expands or becomes soft2 then tap the horn with a smooth stick or hammer1 and the plaster will drop out in a whole piece4 ,if you have put a rivet through the horn before putting in the plaster paris it is more difficult to remove1 as the rivet holds the plaster firmly in the horn4 ,in such a case take a chisel and dig out the plaster paris down to the rivet1 then either cut the rivet with the chisel or file it in two and take it out2 then proceed as above directed4 ,to make the butt of a horn round1 put the horn in boiling water2 let it remain about ten minutes2 have a round wooden plug ready1 which should be wedge shaped2 drive this in the horn while hot1 and let it cool2 afterwards remove the plug1 and the horn will remain round4 ,this makes quite a difference in the appearance of the horn where you wish to use it for a hat rack1 footstool1 etc4 ,,to ,,dress ,,deer ,,horns4 ,make an extra strong lye1 using the granulated lye and hot water1 say one tablespoonful of lye to half pint of hot water4 ,give the whole horn a thorough bath in the mixture1 and let it set about one hour2 then take a stiff brush and give the horns a thorough washing2 this cuts off all the dirt that has accumulated in the rough knotty parts4 ,the horns should now be put in a barrel of water and let soak a day or two1 to take off all the lye1 then wash well using a stiff brush4 ,now take an old hand-saw and cut down through the skull1 commencing one inch back of the horns and coming out at the eye sockets1 being careful to saw straight through1 so that when placed on a board they will set level4 ,take a two-inch pine block as wide as the skull and three inches longer1 round off the top and bottom ends to suit the shape ox the skull1 place the horns on the block1 holding them there with the hands4 ,put it up against the wall and if the horns pitch too far forward take down and cut off from the front of the board1 sloping it backwards until the horns hang at a proper pitch4 ,now drill about four holes through the skull1 and screw the skull fast to the board4 ,take a dozen or more shingle nails and drive in the front of board an inch or more apart1 leaving the heads sticking out4 ,these are to hold the plaster paris1 which is put on to level up before putting on the covering4 ,after the nails are all in1 mix some plaster paris and pour over the skull and around the edges to round it up in shape for the covering4 ,after the plaster paris is partially hardened1 smooth it by scraping down the high places1 then let it dry4 ,take a piece of strong unbleached muslin large enough to stretch over the skull and board1 tack the muslin on the back part of the skull board1 then draw it down between the horns and tack it to the under side of the board at the lower end1 drawing very tight2 now commence at the edge of the muslin and cut straight in to the inner side of horns1 round out a little for the horn1 and proceed to draw it all down tight1 and tack it on the under side of the block1 being careful not to make any wrinkles in the covering2 trim it off to the tacks on the under side4 7,some prefer to have the muslin wet while putting it on47 ,we are now ready for the outer covering1 which should be plush or velvet1 and is put on in the same way as the first covering4 ,it requires some skill to make a smooth job of the first2 yet by going slow1 any one should do a fair job4 ,next make a board to screw on the back of this1 which should be made in diamond shape or rounding on both ends1 and about six inches longer and one inch wider than the skull board2 this should be made of walnut and nicely varnished2 after it has thoroughly dried fasten it tight to skull board with screws1 counter-sinking their heads4 ,bore one hole at each end of the base board and counter-sink them2 then screw it to the wall4 ,varnish the rough part of the horns and let them dry2 then take some chenille or tinsel cord to trim around the butt of the horns and around the back part or edge of the skull board4 ,tack it on with upholstering tacks4 ,cow horns and sheep horns are mounted in the same manner4 ,the sheep horns should be cleaned with the lye1 as directed for the deer horns1 but no scraping or polishing is necessary2 they look better rough4 ,the cow horns should be polished1 as directed on page #ajb1 before they are put on the board4 ,no polished horn should be varnished4 ,,polishing ,,hoofs ,,of ,,various ,,kinds4 ,the cow hoof takes a high polish1 and a number of useful articles can be made of them--which are not only useful1 but quite a novelty4 ,take a pair of cow hoofs1 which are neither bruised nor scaled1 rasp them down in good shape1 then scrape1 sand-paper and polish the same as directed in polishing horns4 ,the hoofs should be good matches1 and both from the same foot4 ,bore or drill two holes in one of them on the inner side1 about one-half inch apart1 and place the two hoofs side by side on a level board1 seeing that the toes are even with each other4 ,take a piece of wire or an awl and put through the holes in the hoof and mark the place to make the holes on the other1 so that when they are wired together they will set even with each other4 ,drill small holes around the tops1 say a quarter of an inch apart2 take a piece of malleable wire of sufficient size and draw it through the holes in the sides of the hoofs1 drawing them firmly together1 and twist the ends of the wire together2 this will hold them in place4 ,bind the upper edge of hoofs with piece of cloth1 sewing through the holes drilled for that purpose4 ,stuff each hoof with tow or moss1 and stuff with any goods to suit your fancy1 silk plush1 velvet1 etc4 ,put the filling in tight and let it come above the level of hoof to make the cover rounding1 then drawn down tight4 ,draw the edges of the cover down and sew them with a strong thread to the binding4 ,take a piece of fancy cord or ribbon and tack it around the edge of the cover and you have a fancy pin cushion4 ,to make a match safe or tooth-pick case1 polish the hoofs1 wire together1 and drill the holes around the edge as before2 then take some glue and spread it well over the inside of each hoof2 cut some red flannel to fit the inside and press it in with your fingers until it is all smooth2 cut it off at the edge of top of hoof1 and bind the edges with ribbon4 ,this makes a very pretty match safe or tooth-pick case4 ,all hoofs are polished in the same manner4 ,should the hoofs not set level after they are put together1 take a coarse piece of sand-paper and tack or hold it on a level board1 set the bottom of the hoofs on it and rub round and round until they do set level4 ,it would be best to attend to this as soon as they are fastened together4 ,,article ,,xiii4 ,,acorns1 ,,tips ,,for ,,horns1 ,,etc4 ,illustration ,a nickel-plated acorn1 as shown in the accompanying cut1 makes a very fine finish on the point of a polished horn4 ,b is a wire stem attached to the acorn1 and is intended for fastening it to the horn4 ,they are made as follows3 ,if made of metal1 they are cast on the stem and then turned4 ,if brass1 they are polished2 but if iron1 turned and then bronzed1 painted or nickel-plated4 ,if made of horn1 first put in the stem and then turn and polish them4 ,to put them on the horn1 saw off the point of the horn1 drill a hole in the end of same1 the size of the stem1 put a little glue in the hole and drive the stem in tight4 ,the horn should be polished before putting the knob on4 ,round knobs are also very nice1 put on in the same way4 ,this way of putting them on is much better and easier than the old way of screwing them on4 ,,article ,,xiv4 ,,receipts ,,for ,,various ,,preparations ,,used ,,in ,,the ,,preservation ,,and ,,setting ,,up ,,of ,,animals1 ,,fowls1 ,,etc4 ,,solution ,,of ,,corrosive ,,sublimate4 ,corrosive sublimate #a teaspoonful ,alcohol pint ,mix and let stand twelve hours1 and it is ready for use4 ,,arsenical ,,soap4 ,arsenic in powder #c pounds ,salts of tartar #a pound ,camphor gum #f ounces ,cocoanut oil soap #a pounds ,powdered lime #e ounces ,cut the soap up fine and put it in a kettle containing one gallon of soft water and boil until the soap is well dissolved1 then add the lime1 salts of tartar and arsenic1 stirring the mixture thoroughly2 put the gum camphor in a half pint of alcohol and place in a mortar and crush it2 take the kettle off the fire and add the camphor2 mix well1 and when partly cooled put it in fruit jars and seal up4 ,it is now ready for use1 and great care should be taken in using it1 as it is a deadly poison4 ,,preserving ,,powder4 ,arsenic in powder #b pounds ,alum in powder #a pound ,mix thoroughly and keep in a dry place4 ,this is also very poisonous4 ,,carbolic ,,acid4 ,the following solution of carbolic acid and water ,i have found very good in preserving skins1 bugs1 etc43 ,carbolic acid ounce ,soft water #b quarts ,turpentine is also a good preservative1 and is sometimes used in place of corrosive sublimate4 ,,things ,,worth ,,remembering4 ,never attempt to dress a bird when its feathers are broken or badly blood stained1 unless it is a rare specimen4 ,never dress a bird after the feathers begin to slip4 ,never dress an animal after the hair begins to slip4 ,never let a hide get dry before applying the preserving powder4 ,never stretch a hide out of shape while taking it off4 ,never forget to stop all wounds and the mouth and nostrils with cotton as soon as you kill the specimen4 ,never let a specimen get dry after stuffing it before shaping and setting it up4 ,never inhale the preserving powder1 or get it in cuts or sores1 for it is a deadly poison4 ,never be afraid of putting too much of the preserving powder on a hide4 ,never be afraid of charging a good price for a well dressed specimen4 ,always use the best material1 such as eyes1 tow1 cotton1 wire1 etc4 ,always try to improve on each specimen you dress that you may excel others in the art4 ,,tanning ,,hides ,,with ,,hair ,,on4 ,very little has ever been written in regard to tanning skins with the hair on4 ,indeed we may say there is scarcely any literature on the subject1 and this article must necessarily be very brief4 ,tanning with the hair on is always somewhat difficult1 but of course1 some hides are more difficult to tan than others4 ,as an average1 ,i will here give directions for tanning a dog hide4 ,the same process obtains in the tanning of other hides4 ,the only difference being in the length of time required which must be regulated to suit each case4 ,we will start with the skin on the dog's back1 and hence the first operation will be the skinning process4 ,to begin1 make an incision from middle of under lip back along the median line to the tip of the tail4 ,then make an incision from the middle of each foot along the inner side of the leg to the median line1 and proceed to skin1 being careful not to cut holes in the hide1 and at the same time to leave no flesh sticking to the skin4 ,when skinning the head cut the gristle of the ear back close to the skull and separate the skin as near out to the point of the ear as possible4 ,unless this skin is separated1 it is difficult to tan the ears without losing the hair1 especially in warm weather4 ,be very careful not to cut the eyelids2 skin on over the nose and cut loose from the body4 ,then go over the pelt and remove every particle of flesh which may have been left on the skin1 and be especially careful around the nose and mouth4 ,all the bones of the feet should be removed except the bones of the toes4 ,next bathe the nose1 ears1 feet and tail with the preserving fluids used in taxidermy4 ,if you have none of the fluid1 use plenty of arsenic and alum1 and then stretch the hide on a floor with the hair side down and tack all the parts so that they will be stretched perfectly smooth1 after which salt all over thoroughly4 ,let it remain until perfectly dry1 and then take a piece of coarse sand-paper and rub it down smooth and clear of any remaining vestige of fleshy particles4 ,or instead of the preceding modus operandi1 remove the pelt from the floor when about dry1 and lay it on a fleshing beam and with a fleshing knife scrape off all remaining flesh and grease4 ,should there be grease that cannot be removed with fleshing knife1 tack hide back on the floor and spread about three gallons of sawdust over it and rub thoroughly4 ,clean the skin and cover again with salt1 and when dry sand-paper as directed above4 ,next place in warm water to soften it1 and when soft wash it thoroughly with soap4 ,then rinse and wring it1 and put it into the following liquid which should be contained in a wooden vessel4 ,the liquid consists of one gallon of soft warm water1 one-half ounce of commercial sulphuric acid1 and one-third of a pound of corn starch4 ,after compounding1 this liquid should be stirred about ten minutes before the skin is introduced4 ,when the pelt is put in1 it should be pressed well under1 and stirred with a wooden paddle for thirty minutes or until it begins to thicken and turn a dark reddish color4 ,then take it out and hang it up1 and let it drain about thirty minutes1 after which put it into a weak lye made either from wood ashes or from concentrated lye which may be bought in any grocery store2 strain the liquid before putting the hide in4 ,stir the hide in this lye about thirty minutes again1 or until you are satisfied the lye has had time to neutralize the acid from the preceding bath4 ,the object of this latter bath is to counteract the acid effect of the former4 ,take out of the lye and hang up and let it drain about one hour1 and then give it a thorough washing on a wash-board with plenty of soap and warm water4 ,rinse perfectly clean and again hang up to drain4 ,when the hair is nearly dry1 tack it again on the floor taking care to stretch it into proper shape4 ,when partly dry take it up and rub and pull it until soft1 which completes the tanning4 ,we are then ready to place the skull in position4 ,after skinning the head1 remove the brains and eyeballs1 and then boil the skull until all the flesh can be scraped from the bones4 ,the skull being ready1 fill the eye sockets with plaster paris made with water into the consistency of a plaster1 and then set in a pair of suitable glass eyes1 being careful to so adjust them as to give them the appearance of natural eyes4 ,the under jaw should be wired to the upper1 or bound securely to it by a small cord or wire4 ,saw the skull and back corners of under jaw off1 so that when the sawed surface is fastened down flat on a board1 the nose will be somewhat elevated from the floor1 while the back part of the skull will lie on the floor4 ,fasten the skull to the small boards with wire1 and then stretch the skin over it4 ,soak only the skin of the head in water1 and sew up the mouth by drawing the lower lips up under the upper in the natural way4 ,the skin should be inside out while the lips are being sewed4 ,if in the process of skinning you have cut the skin clear out through the lip1 it must be sewed together far enough to inclose the skull and the under board1 which should not extend more than two inches back of the skull4 ,build out the end of the nose with plaster paris to make it natural shape and draw the skin over the skull4 ,be very careful to have the nose and eyes all right4 ,tack the skin to the under side of the board which should in width correspond to the thickness of the dog's neck4 ,the edges of the neck skin should be sutured together under the board and tacked to it4 ,cut the skin1 which is lapped under1 following the line of back end of board out to the side edges of the board4 ,turn this flap out and sew the underlying end to the upper skin1 or to the skin of back of neck1 and close to the back end of board2 this brings the skin on a level of under side of board2 now round off the turned out flap so as to conform with the line of the neck and fore legs2 the head will now need some stuffing to round it up in proper shape4 ,take some cotton and put it in through the ears with a wire1 placing it where needed to give the head a proper shape2 arrange the skin around the eyes1 nose and mouth2 then let dry before lining4 ,put a good supply of the alcohol and corrosive sublimate on the ears1 nose and lips1 as soon as head is dressed4 ,now for the lining1 procure a sufficient amount of felt to line it1 say of a dark green color2 then get enough to make a strip one and a half inches wide and long enough to go around the edge of hide2 this should be an orange color4 ,take this strip and pink one edge of it1 then baste the lining on to skin letting the edges of it project about two inches out from edge of hide4 ,now comb the hair around the edges of hide back towards the center of same4 ,then take the pinked strip and lay it on the hair side of skin1 the smooth edge along the edge of the hide and the pinked edge laying back on the hair2 then sew the pinked strip1 lining and hide together1 running close to the edge of hide4 ,now turn the pinked strip out on to the projecting lining and sew another seam around just out side of the hide1 thus sewing the lining and the pinked strip together4 ,now pink the out edge of lining to suit your taste2 then take some yarn or zephyr and knot the lining and hide together1 the same as in knotting a comfort1 and the job is complete4 ,to make a robe sew a number of hides together and line them1 simply binding the edge with a straight strip4 ,,to ,,soften ,,hides4 ,where a hide has become hard by getting wet1 or from some other cause after tanning1 wet it on flesh side with water and hang up4 ,when partly dry give it a thorough rubbing4 ,if that fails to soften it1 oil it with ,neatsfoot oil and rub it in well4 ,,to ,,clean ,,rugs ,,and ,,furs4 ,when rugs and furs become dirty from use take hardwood sawdust1 dampen it and rub well into hide4 ,shake out and repeat until clean4 ,,to ,,kill ,,moths ,,in ,,furs1 ,,etc4 ,sprinkle them well with arsenic shaking it well down on hide4 ,tie up and lay away for a few days4 ,then dust all the arsenic out and clean with the sawdust4 ,in stuffed birds use the arsenic alone1 but handle it with care for it is a deadly poison4 ,,extras4 ,a ,,family ,,liniment4 ,alcohol #a pint ,gum ,camphor ounce ,aqua ammonia #c ounces ,oil of ,sassafras ounce ,laudanum ounce ,mix4 ,wishing to use the above for neuralgia or rheumatism1 add to three ounces of the preparation #d grains menthol 7in crystals74 ,,five ,,day ,,corn ,,or ,,wart ,,cure4 ,cannabis #e grains ,salicylic ,acid #bi grains ,collodion ounce ,caster ,oil #aj drops ,directions3 ,mix thoroughly1 and before applying dampen the corn or wart with turpentine2 then apply1 being careful not to get the preparation on the sound flesh4 ,repeat this every night before going to bed for five successive nights4 ,now bind a slice of lemon on excrescence1 let it remain one hour1 and then wash and scrape off corn or wart4 ,you may of course repeat as often as necessary1 or until excrescence is entirely removed4 ,,furniture ,,polish4 ,turpentine pint ,yellow lubricating oil pint ,muriatic acid #a ounce ,directions3 ,mix and let stand two days1 and then apply with a sponge after which thoroughly dry with a woolen cloth4 ,,white ,,cement4 ,best white glue pound ,soft water #b pints ,directions3 ,mix and heat over a slow fire until dissolved2 then stir in #d ounces dry white lead1 pint alcohol1 and #a ounce aqua ammonia4 ,,index4 ,,pages4 ,barbers' ,itch1 #bc ,black ,heads1 #ba ,bleaching for the ,hair1 #bb ,brilliantine1 #bj ,camphor ,ice1 #af ,engraving ,fluid1 #bj ,face ,whitenings1 #bc-cb ,four ,face and ,hand ,creams1 #ab-ae ,glass ,hone1 #cj ,hair ,dyes1 #i-aj ,hair ,oils and ,pomades1 #be-bf ,menthol ,salve1 #ag ,mugs1 ,brushes and ,soap1 #ca ,quinine ,hair ,tonics and ,sea ,foam1 #aa-bj ,shampoos1 #ag-ai ,shower-,bath and ,shampoo ,can1 #cb ,suggestions to ,beginners1 #ce ,to ,stop ,blood1 #bi ,towels and ,hair ,cloths1 #cc ,,taxidermy4 ,article ,i41 ,on ,skinning and ,dressing ,birds #dh ,article ,,ii41 ,on ,skinning and ,dressing ,animals #fc ,article ,,iii41 ,fish ,dressing #gb ,article ,,iv41 ,hunting ,specimens and care of same #gg ,article ,v4 and ,,vi41 ,wood and ,wire ,frames #gi-ha ,article ,,vii41 ,dressing ,moles1 etc4 #hb ,article ,,viii41 ,dressing ,turtles #hd ,article ,,ix41 ,killing and ,dressing ,snakes #hi ,article ,x41 ,dressing ,alligators #ib ,article ,,xi41 ,on ,making ,footstools1 etc4 #id ,article ,,xii41 ,polishing ,horns1 etc4 #ajb ,article ,,xiii41 ,tips for ,horns1 etc4 #aac ,article ,,xiv41 ,recipes for ,preserving ,preparations1 #aad ,tanning ,hides1 etc4 #aag-abf ,extra ,formulas #abg-abi ,,transcriber',s ,,notes #a4 ,silently corrected typographical errors4 #b4 ,retained anachronistic and non-standard spellings as printed4 #c4 ,enclosed italics font in underscores4