,the ,art of ,lead ,burning ,a ,,practical ,,treatise ,,explaining ,,the ,,apparatus ,,and ,,processes4 #eb ,,illustrations4 ,by ,c4 ,h4 ,,fay ,reprinted from ,the ,metal ,worker1 ,plumber and ,steam ,fitter4 ,,published ,,by ,,david ,,williams ,,company1 #bcb-bch ,william ,st41 ,new ,york1 #aije4 ,copyrighted1 #aije4 ,by ,david ,williams ,company4 ,,preface4 ,the mystery which has always surrounded the work of the lead burner1 like that of all other handicrafts outside of ordinary occupations1 dissolves under the light of a full knowledge of the causes and effects that have a bearing upon it4 ,while different works have treated on lead burning1 it is the object of this special treatise to explain fully in detail every part of the apparatus and fixtures in common use1 as well as their application1 so that the careful reader may understand and acquire the art of lead burning by observing scrupulously the rules laid down and devoting sufficient time to practice to master it4 ,this instruction1 given by text and illustration1 is only presented after the dangerous power of hydrogen gas when misused is thoroughly impressed on the reader4 ,it would be well for all who hope to become lead burners to devote several evenings1 with an interval between1 to a thorough study of the chapters on hydrogen gas and its properties before taking any further steps4 ,to those who have not had previous experience with chemicals and gases this preliminary study is indispensable for their own safety1 for the successful operation of the apparatus and to insure satisfactory work4 ,when fully familiar with the properties of hydrogen gas and the necessity of being careful when it is used little difficulty will be experienced in acquiring a full knowledge of the apparatus and fixtures4 ,the art of burning the lead can only be acquired by practice1 and either quickly or slowly1 as the operator may be quick and skillful in acquiring any handicraft4 ,in addition to describing what has been common practice for many years1 the treatise contains a description of a new machine and burner which has only recently become available to lead burners4 ,it also describes the method of lead burning with the use of illuminating gas and a soldering flux4 ,a chapter is devoted to soft soldering and ,britannia metal work1 which is largely used in the equipment of bars and restaurants1 the various joints being more easily made with a blow pipe than by any other method4 ,as the workman who hopes to profit by reading this book can by a little negligence make a great deal of trouble for himself and others1 caution and great care are advised whenever he is at work4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter4 ,,page4 ,i4 ,introduction #i ,,ii4 ,the ,apparatus #ae ,,iii4 ,hydrogen ,gas #ah ,,iv4 ,the ,construction of the ,generator #bf ,v4 ,making the ,gas to ,burn the ,generator #ci ,,vi4 ,connecting the ,apparatus #ee ,,vii4 ,charging the ,generator #fd ,,viii4 ,the ,flame and ,its ,management #gc ,,ix4 ,the ,different ,kinds of ,seams #hj ,x4 ,pipe ,seams #ajj ,,xi4 ,acid ,chamber ,work #ajh ,,xii4 ,special ,hydrogen ,apparatus and ,burner #aai ,,xiii4 ,soft ,soldering with the ,mouth ,blow ,pipe #abg ,,chapter ,i4 ,,introduction4 ,in compiling a treatise on the subject of lead burning too much stress cannot be laid upon the fact that the greatest care must be taken to observe the smallest details and to follow carefully every suggestion in regard to safety4 ,i am aware of the responsibility resting upon me in placing this article into hundreds of hands1 comparatively ignorant of the danger involved in handling so much hydrogen1 without thoroughly instructing them in detail as to its use4 ,i may be excused1 therefore1 if1 for that reason1 some of the explanations are so simple as to seem ridiculous2 but my aim is to present to the trade a treatise that can be relied upon to be free from theory that has not been thoroughly tried and tested1 so that the beginner can be sure that1 if he follows directions as printed1 nothing but satisfaction to him can result4 ,study the ,chapter on ,hydrogen ,gas4 ,i cannot too strongly recommend that the beginner study the chapter on hydrogen gas until the main points are memorized and clearly understood4 ,the experiments should be performed and the result carefully noted for future reference before attempting to use the generator4 ,it is time well spent to master the technical parts thoroughly before attempting the mechanical part4 ,then when a man takes up the mechanical he will do so with an intelligent understanding of what he is doing1 and any little trouble which may then arise can be quickly overcome4 ,another thing to be observed is to avoid nervousness4 ,a nervous person cannot do this work with any degree of satisfaction1 as it requires a cool head and a steady hand and a vast amount of patience to burn the upright and inverted seams4 ,lead ,burning ,explained4 ,lead burning is the process of fusing two pieces of lead together without the use of solder4 ,the process consists in melting the edges together1 a drop at a time1 and when done with hydrogen gas and the blow pipe is called the 8autogenous process40 ,lead can be fused with gasoline or illuminating gas by the use of the compound blow pipe2 but1 as ordinary gases give an oxidizing flame and require a flux1 it is not considered a practical method4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4--,lead ,burning ,apparatus4 ,lead is used extensively in lining tanks made to contain pickle dips1 hot cyanide solution1 storage batteries1 acid tanks for manufacturing jewelry and water closet tanks1 as water in many cases contains large quantities of lime and other deposits which rapidly destroy the solder used on copper linings4 ,tanks used for the above purposes must be lined with lead and the seams burned1 as acids attack the tin in solders and destroy them4 ,the demand for the work is rapidly increasing where it is introduced4 ,i have demonstrated to many manufacturers that this is the cheapest method known1 as it gives a permanent solution of the problem how to keep a chemical tank tight4 ,method of ,making ,lead ,lined ,tanks4 ,the most common method resorted to in many large factories is to make the tanks out of very heavy cypress lumber1 free from any knots or blemishes4 ,the joints are carefully dovetailed and fitted together1 and long bolts are used to draw the joints and keep them from leaking4 ,usually it takes from three to four days to complete one small tank1 only to have it leak in a few months2 whereas the same tank can be built in a few hours of any cheap lumber1 and then1 when it is lined with lead of a proper thickness and the seams burned it will usually last for an indefinite period1 thereby saving floors and1 many times1 costly plating solutions4 ,the most common argument put forth by manufacturers is that the bottoms of lead lined tanks are soon cut out1 owing to dropping sharp pieces of metal into them4 ,this difficulty can be best overcome by placing a slatted bottom of wood in the tank1 holding the same in place with strips of sheet lead1 one end of which has been previously burned to the bottom of the tank4 ,these strips are to be brought up through the slats and then bent over the top of them4 ,this will keep the wood from floating1 and is the only practical way to do it1 as the false bottoms soon decay1 and can be easily removed and replaced by simply bending back the strips of lead4 ,general ,remarks4 ,soft solder1 as referred to here1 means solder that melts at a temperature of #cjj degrees or less1 and is so called because of the low heat required to fuse the solder4 ,it is used almost exclusively on the quick melting metals and compositions1 such as block tin pipes and ,britannia metal4 ,it is also used by pattern makers in soldering white metal1 as it requires but very little heat to sweat it through heavy articles4 ,it should not be used to join any pipes which convey hot water or other hot liquids1 as it is readily acted upon and destroyed4 7,the composition of these solders is explained in a special chapter47 ,the chapters on blow pipe work1 also on bar work1 will alone turn many dollars into the pockets of the plumbers who have courage and ambition to acquire this line of work4 ,many times small leaks occur in difficult places that can be readily repaired by the use of the blow pipe and a common candle4 ,the lining of bars with ,britannia metal is coming more and more into general practice1 and it usually requires a specialist in this line to do the work4 ,the soldering of this metal with a blow pipe and an alcohol torch is an easy matter1 and is described in a special chapter4 ,there is no reason why this work should not be done by a plumber1 particularly in small cities and towns1 and to aid such as have not had the opportunity to familiarize themselves with such work ,i append such diagrams as may seem useful and necessary4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,the ,,apparatus4 ,the apparatus used for lead burning is illustrated in ,fig4 #a4 ,it consists of a gas generator1 ,a2 an air holder1 ,b1 and pump1 ,c2 mixing fork1 e1 and necessary cocks1 f and g2 combined scrubbing cup and fire trap1 h2 blow pipe and tips1 i4 ,the generator consists of an acid chamber1 j1 and a gas chamber1 k4 ,these are connected with an acid supply pipe1 l1 which conducts the acid from the acid chamber to the gas chamber1 and also serves as a balance pipe4 ,this feature makes the generator automatic in its action1 for as soon as the gas in the gas chamber gets up sufficient pressure1 the acid in the gas chamber k is driven slowly back through the acid supply pipe l and up into the acid chamber j1 where it is held until gas is used4 ,when the acid descends and submerges the zinc more gas is generated1 replacing that which has been used4 ,this form of generator will never blow acid like the floating generator4 ,the requirements of a hydrogen generator for lead burning are that it should be safe1 economical and automatic in its action4 ,it must be so constructed that it will generate gas enough to keep the supply constant1 and deliver it at sufficient pressure to keep the flame steady4 ,it must also be provided with a combination fire trap and scrubbing cup4 ,this will prevent the explosion of the generator by firing the gas in the hose4 ,this trap must be partly filled with a solution of blue vitriol to act as a precipitation cup4 7,this is treated under the head of 8,scrubbing ,cup407 ,the chief danger with an apparatus of this sort is its liability to accident by the careless use of the gas1 and1 as a mixture of hydrogen and air is very explosive1 great care must be taken to exhaust all the air in the generator and tubes before attempting to light the gas at the blow pipe4 ,the only way to make sure that the air is exhausted is to test the gas1 as described under the head of 8,the ,flame and ,its ,management40 ,a ,few ,cautions4 ,it is a very sensible idea to keep spectators away from the generator1 as they are very apt to strike matches or tread on the tubes1 in spite of warnings to be cautious1 for if there should be a leak1 even so slight as to be hardly detected1 it would cause a violent explosion1 and as hydrogen is both odorless and colorless1 this could easily happen without being noticed4 ,this is probably the origin of the apparent secrecy with which a lead burner usually surrounds himself4 ,if an explosion should occur in the tubes and they should catch fire1 the operator must have presence of mind enough to reach the gas cock on the generator and close it4 ,if gas explodes in the generator1 all that can be done is to dodge the flying pieces and make a new generator4 ,if such an incident should occur and vitriol should spatter on the person doing the work1 or his assistant1 a solution of bicarbonate of soda or common washing soda should be at once applied to the wounds4 ,if that cannot be procured1 grease or oil of some kind should be used without delay1 rubbing it on the spots where the acid burns1 and this will neutralize the acid and so prevent it doing further damage4 ,there should be no trouble of this sort in the hands of a careful workman4 ,the watchword should be1 8,test the gas before using40 ,if this is done1 explosions will never occur4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,hydrogen ,,gas4 ,this element was discovered by ,cavendish in #agff1 and was called by him inflammable air4 ,the name hydrogen is derived from two ,greek words1 one signifying 8water0 and the other 8to generate10 on account of its forming water when burnt4 ,it occurs in its free state in the bases of volcanoes1 and by the aid of the spectroscope has been detected in the sun and stars4 ,it chiefly exists in combination with oxygen as water1 and is an important constituent of all vegetable and animal substances4 ,hydrogen is obtained by the decomposition of water in various ways4 ,on a large scale1 nearly pure hydrogen may be prepared by passing steam over charcoal1 or coke1 heated to a dull redness4 ,if the temperature be kept sufficiently low hydrogen and carbon dioxide will be the sole products1 and the latter may be removed by causing it to traverse a vessel filled with slaked lime1 but if the temperature be allowed to rise too high1 or an excess of air be admitted1 carbon monoxide is also produced1 and cannot be removed from the mixture4 ,pure hydrogen is a colorless1 odorless1 transparent and tasteless gas1 and has never been liquefied4 ,it is very slightly soluble in water4 ,it is the lightest of all known bodies and is not poisonous1 although it cannot support life1 and if mixed with a certain proportion of oxygen it can be breathed for a considerable length of time without inconvenience4 ,it is highly inflammable1 and burns in the air with an almost colorless1 nonluminous flame1 forming water4 ,a burning taper is extinguished when plunged into hydrogen1 and all bodies which burn in the air are incapable of burning in hydrogen4 ,hydrogen does not spontaneously enter into reaction with any of the elements1 although it has a powerful affinity for several of them4 ,thus1 when hydrogen and oxygen are mixed nothing occurs1 but if a lighted splint is introduced a violent explosion ensues1 water being produced4 ,similarly chlorine and hydrogen are without action upon each other in the dark1 but if the mixture is exposed to a bright light1 or if heated by the passage of an electric spark1 the gases are at once combined with explosive violence1 forming hydrochloric acid4 ,hydrogen is usually prepared by the action of zinc or iron on a solution of hydrochloric or sulphuric acid4 ,all metals which decompose water when heated readily furnish hydrogen1 on treatment with hydrochloric or sulphuric acid4 ,many other metals enter more or less readily 7although none so readily7 into reaction with these acids4 ,also1 many other acids than sulphuric or hydrochloric acids may be used1 but none acts so quickly4 ,in all cases the action consists of the displacement of the hydrogen of the acid by the metal employed1 and if the acid is not one which can enter into reaction with the displaced hydrogen1 the latter is also evolved as gas4 ,if pure gas is required it is necessary to employ pure zinc or iron1 as the impurities in the ordinary metal communicate an extremely disagreeable odor to the gas4 ,the pure gas is not absolutely essential for lead burning1 and owing to their being much cheaper1 and also on account of their increased quickness of action1 the commercial qualities of sulphuric acid and zinc are employed in the generator described4 ,the commercial zinc is known as spelter and is sold in pigs or blocks1 which are easily broken into fragments1 like stove coal1 with a heavy hammer4 ,the commercial sulphuric acid is known as oil of vitriol and is sold by the pound4 ,the acid cannot be employed in its pure state1 but must be reduced with water in the proportion of one part of acid to seven parts of warm water4 ,they must be mixed by adding the acid slowly to the water2 never the water to the acid4 ,the combination of acid and water enters at once into reaction and always generates heat1 and the result of adding water to acid would be small explosions4 ,there would be danger of the acid flying on one's clothes or into the eyes4 ,the mixture should never be stronger than six parts of water to one of acid4 ,the beginner will observe from the above that the generator cannot be crowded by making the acid solution strong4 ,hydrogen is a peculiar gas and also a dangerous one for one ignorant of its peculiarities to experiment with1 and in order to thoroughly understand it the following experiments should be demonstrated1 which can be done with little expense4 ,the beginner should note the result of each experiment as demonstrated1 and carefully commit the same to memory for future reference4 ,experiment #a4 ,test for ,hydrogen4--,fill a small jar or wide mouthed bottle with hydrogen4 ,this is done by first filling the bottle with water1 inserting the end of the tube from the hydrogen generator1 having first exhausted the air in the tube1 then quickly inverting the bottle and placing the neck1 ,fig4 #b1 in a pan of water 7,a72 the water will stay in the bottle4 ,now turn on the hydrogen4 ,the gas1 being lighter than water1 will rise to the top of the bottle 7,b71 drive out the water1 and replace it with pure hydrogen1 which should be free from air4 ,remove the bottle from the pan of water1 keeping it inverted4 ,thrust a lighted splint into the bottle4 ,the gas will light and burn at the mouth of the bottle4 ,if the splint is thrust far into the bottle it will go out4 ,drops of water collect in the bottle4 ,burning is a union with oxygen2 therefore1 the burning of the hydrogen shows that it has an affinity for oxygen4 ,the splint goes out because the hydrogen does not support combustion4 ,if no air is allowed to get into it the gas cannot burn or explode4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4--;,experiment ,no4 #a4 ,experiment #b4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4--;,experiment ,no4 #b4 ,proving ,that ,hydrogen is ,lighter ,than ,air4--,bring an inverted bottle of hydrogen close to an empty bottle1 also inverted1 ,fig4 #b4 ,gradually tip the bottle containing hydrogen 7,a7 until it is brought to an upright position beneath the empty bottle4 ,test the bottles for hydrogen4 ,the hydrogen will be found in the bottle 7,b7 that was at first empty1 proving that hydrogen is lighter than air1 as it has risen in the empty bottle1 displacing the air that was in it4 ,if the bottle of hydrogen is left in an upright position without a cover for a few moments the gas will entirely disappear4 ,experiment #c4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4--;,experiment ,no4 #c4 ,the ,effect of ,mixing ,hydrogen and ,air4--,half fill a bottle with water and invert it in a pan of water1 ,fig4 #c1 leaving the upper half filled with air4 ,displace the air in the bottle with hydrogen1 then thrust a lighted splint into the bottle1 and the gas will light with an explosion4 ,when the bottle was half filled with water the other half was air4 ,the hydrogen took the place of the water1 so that the bottle contained equal quantities of hydrogen and air4 ,when the hydrogen was lighted it combined with the oxygen in the air4 ,the union of the two gases caused the explosion1 proving that the combined gases are very explosive4 ,experiment #d4 ,to ,make ,hydrogen ,from ,water4--,drop a piece of potassium into a little water and cover it4 ,the potassium floats on the water and soon burns4 ,potassium acts vigorously on cold water1 setting free hydrogen1 and unites with parts of it to form 8caustic potash40 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,the ,,construction ,,of ,,the ,,generator4 ,the construction of the generator is the first step in the mechanical part of the business1 and to simplify this a complete set of reference drawings has been constructed and is herewith given4 ,the assembling of the parts should be clear1 with the assistance of the perspective drawing of the completed apparatus1 and any mechanic of ordinary ability should be able to construct this generator without any trouble4 ,the following bill of material should first be purchased3 ,one -inch whitewood board #aj inches wide and #h feet #f inches long4 ,one -inch whitewood board #ab inches wide and #d feet #f inches long4 ,one piece of #f-pound sheet lead #c feet wide and #f feet #f inches long4 ,three -inch female hose end gas cocks4 ,one piece of -inch brass tubing #b feet long4 ,one foot of -inch lead pipe4 ,one #d-;inch charging screw4 ,one #a-;inch cleaning screw4 ,making the ,charging and ,cleaning ,screws4 ,these goods can be readily purchased from dealers1 with the exception of the charging and cleaning screws4 ,they can be made in any brass foundry4 ,the only difference between the charging and cleaning screws is the size4 ,the charging screw1 ,fig4 #e1 should be at least #d inches in diameter1 or large enough to pass the hand through1 while the cleaning screw should be #a inches in diameter1 or large enough to pass over a #a-;inch pipe4 ,a piece of sheet lead is fitted into the cover1 as shown at a1 to protect the metal from the acid4 ,soft putty is used for a packing1 as shown in ,fig4 #e4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4--,the ,charging ,screw4 ,the best1 although a more expensive1 charging screw is shown in ,fig4 #f4 ,as will be seen from the cut1 it consists of a base1 k2 cover1 d2 clamp1 e1 and screw1 f4 ,the base is simply a plain iron or brass ring1 #d inches in diameter1 inch thick and #a inch high4 ,the bottom is to be faced smooth1 while the top is recessed #c-af inch deep to receive the sheet lead and packing of putty1 as at a4 ,two nubs1 b and b1 are cast on opposite sides1 as shown1 to act as grips for the clamp c4 ,these nubs are inch long and project out from the body of the base inch1 and are made sufficiently strong to stand the strain of the screw4 ,the cover d is made of the same material as the base1 the center being raised1 as shown1 to give it strength4 ,cast directly in the center and on the top is the nub e1 inch high and inch in diameter4 ,this is drilled to receive the -inch screw f4 ,a groove #a-af inch wide and #a-af inch deep is cut all around the bottom of the screw1 as shown at i4 ,a hole is then drilled through the side of the nub e1 and in line with the slot i4 ,a pin can then be driven through the hole and will pass through the slot i1 making a swivel joint that will connect the cover and screw together4 ,the screw f is made of -inch round iron sufficiently long to give an action of about #a inch4 ,the top at n is filed square to receive a wheel such as is used on a common gate valve4 ,a long thread should then be cut on this screw4 ,the clamp c is made a half circle in shape1 so as to clear the cover with ease4 ,it should be inch wide1 flat on the under side1 while the top side should have a rib cast on it to prevent springing4 ,the top at g should be reinforced with metal and made heavy enough to stand drilling and tapping to receive the screw f4 ,a wood pattern can be made for these parts1 and they can then be molded in any brass or iron foundry4 ,in making the patterns they should be cut down as much as possible1 so as to make the finished article as light as is consistent with the strength required4 ,the same directions will answer for the cleaning screw4 ,the hole to receive the sheet lead over the cleaning screw should not be over #a inches in diameter1 and the rest of the screw should be made in proportion to this hole4 ,the advantage of this screw over others is that it does not wrench the sheet lead in making it up1 and1 owing to its construction1 it is always sure to make a tight joint without straining the generator4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4--,the ,best ,charging ,screw4 ,building the ,frame4 ,the frame can be made of galvanized iron1 but wood is much superior1 as it retains the heat generated in the gas chamber much better4 ,to make the frame take the -inch board and cut off two pieces1 #aj inches square1 ,a and ,b in ,fig4 #h2 #e inches from one side and #b inches from the back of one of these pieces bore a #a-;inch hole1 ,c1 and countersink it4 ,this is for the acid supply pipe to pass through4 ,these pieces are intended for shelves upon which to rest the acid and gas chambers4 ,cut the remaining board into two pieces #ch inches long4 ,lay these two boards together4 ,five inches from the side and #c inches from the bottom bore a #a-;inch hole1 d4 ,then saw out a ,v-shaped piece1 ,fig4 #g4 ,this will form the legs of the generator4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4--,making the ,acid ,chamber4 ,take a square1 and #ab inches from the top of these boards draw the lines e and e4 ,twenty-two inches below these lines draw the lines f and f4 ,these lines represent the tops of the shelves4 ,the shelves should be nailed or screwed into place4 ,the shelf ,b should be placed on the top1 keeping the hole ,c to the back4 ,take the -inch board and cut two pieces to measure #ab #ac inches and two pieces #aa #ab inches4 ,these form the sides of the acid and gas chambers4 ,the two #ab #ac inch boards form the sides of the acid chamber and the #aa #ab inch boards the sides of the gas chamber4 ,directly in the center and #a inches from the bottom of one of the #aa #ab inch boards bore a #a-;inch hole4 ,the remaining piece should be sawed out1 leaving a hole at g4 ,this is so that the board can be removed in case of a leak without disturbing the cleaning screw4 ,these pieces should be fitted to their places with round head screws1 and if properly done will form an acid chamber which will measure #aj #aj #ab inches1 and the gas chamber will measure #aj #aj #aj inches4 ,the acid chamber must be larger than the gas chamber1 to allow the full charge of acid to be used without overflowing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4--,making the ,shelves and the ,perforated ,bottom4 ,now fit the sheet lead4 ,six-pound is plenty heavy for this generator and will last a lifetime4 ,cut it as shown in ,fig4 #h1 ,a and ,b4 ,form the lead so that the seams when finished will come on the outside1 as in case of a leak in a seam it can then be easily repaired by removing one of the boards4 ,the projecting edges of lead should be dressed over the edges of the top to protect the wood from the acid1 but do not fasten them1 as the tanks will have to be removed and the seams burned4 ,now cut the piece of lead ,c to form the top of the gas chamber4 ,none is needed for the acid chamber1 as it must be left open so that no resistance will be offered to the action of the gas on the acid4 ,five inches from the side and #b inches from the back of this piece cut a hole1 d1 ,fig4 #h1 #a inches in diameter1 and dress it up with the bending iron to #a inches in diameter1 taking care to preserve the thickness of the metal4 ,this is for the acid supply pipe to pass through4 ,three inches from the side and #c inches from the front cut a -inch hole1 e4 ,this is the gas outlet4 ,three and one-half inches from the opposite side and #d inches from the front cut the hole f1 #b inches in diameter4 ,dress this up and over the flange of the charging screw a1 ,fig4 #f4 ,this may seem a difficult thing to do1 but lead must be worked slowly4 ,heating the lead while dressing it will help wonderfully4 ,if it is not possible to make a good job in this manner1 then cut the hole #d inches in diameter and burn in a collar sufficiently big to dress over and cover the flange of the screw4 ,this is to prevent acid from coming into contact with the screw and destroying it4 ,treat the cleaning screw in the same manner4 ,the location of this screw is in the center and as close as possible to the bottom of the gas chamber1 as shown in ,fig4 #h at j4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4--,showing the ,perforated ,spelter ,shelf in ,place in the ,generator4 ,it is necessary to have a false perforated bottom in the gas chamber to rest the zinc upon and also to keep it above the solution4 ,to make and support this bottom take a piece of sheet lead #ad inches square1 as shown in ,fig4 #h1 and form it in the shape of a pan1 which will drop easily into the gas chamber k1 ,fig4 #h4 ,a piece of #a or #b inch lead pipe1 #b inches long1 n1 should be burned on the center of the false bottom1 to prevent the center from sagging with the weight of zinc4 ,then punch the bottom ,o1 ,fig4 #h1 full of -inch holes4 ,a #a-;inch hole1 y1 should also be cut in line with the holes for the acid supply pipe4 ,remove the tanks and burn the seams4 ,place the tanks back in place4 ,then take a piece of the -inch brass pipe1 #a inches long4 ,cut a thread on one end1 tin the other end1 and burn it to the top of the gas chamber at e2 also the collar for the charging screw4 ,then place the perforated bottom in the gas chamber1 taking care to keep the holes for the acid supply pipe in line4 ,do not make any mistake in putting in this bottom4 ,its use is to act as a shelf to hold the zinc1 and if put in properly it will hold the zinc about #b inches above the real bottom4 ,the top of the gas chamber c should then be burned in4 ,now by measuring find the exact length of the acid supply pipe1 ,fig4 #g1 i4 ,this pipe should extend from the bottom of the acid chamber o to the bottom of the gas chamber p1 as shown in ,fig4 #g4 ,from one end of this pipe several ,v-shaped pieces should be cut1 p1 about #a inch deep4 ,this is one of the most particular parts of the apparatus1 as this is where the automatic action comes in1 and great care must be taken in cutting these holes not to have any of them come closer to the perforated bottom than #a inch4 ,if this were not observed the acid would be constantly in contact with the zinc1 and would rapidly get up pressure of gas sufficient to blow acid out of the upper tank1 and the extra gas would escape through the acid supply pipe in blows4 ,in fact1 it would make the generator useless4 ,this is the trouble with the ,french apparatus4 ,the acid1 having no place to expand in1 is constantly coming into contact with the zinc1 and unless the gas is being used as fast as generated it will blow acid out of the acid holder1 making a bad mess1 besides being very wasteful4 ,now flange the other end of this pipe to fit the countersunk bottom of the acid chamber4 ,place the pipe in position and burn it to the bottom of the acid chamber and to the top of the gas chamber n1 ,fig4 #g4 ,one of the -inch gas cocks should be screwed on the brass nipple on top of the gas chamber4 ,this will complete the gas generator4 ,it will make a better job if the back of the generator be boarded tight and a door made to fit the space between the bottom of the acid chamber and the top of the gas chamber in front4 ,it is very convenient to have it fixed in this manner1 as in shipping it from one point to another the tubes and other incidentals can be placed in the space so made and shipped with safety4 ,there is no objection to the acid and gas chambers being made in the shape of cylinders1 instead of square1 if so desired1 but if made circular they should be made to fit the frame tightly to prevent jarring and eventually breaking the seams4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,making ,,the ,,gas ,,to ,,burn ,,the ,,generator4 ,in towns supplied with illuminating gas it is a comparatively simple operation to burn the lead lining for the generator1 but for the convenience of those who cannot obtain gas it is necessary to give some method by which the generator can be burned4 ,the method described will answer for illuminating gas as well as for gasoline4 ,to generate gas from gasoline is a simple operation4 ,to do this1 take a common #a-;gallon oil can1 remove the top of can screw and punch a -inch hole in the center of it4 ,then make a tube of tin that will pass through this hole1 sufficiently long to extend half way to the bottom and project #b inches outside of can screw1 and solder this tube in place4 ,this projecting tube is for the purpose of connecting to the air holder4 ,remove the spout of the can and replace it with one to which the hose can be connected4 ,now fill the can two-thirds full of gasoline1 but not full enough to cover the gas outlet1 else it would be likely to force gasoline out instead of gas4 ,after this is done1 screw the can screw in place1 the long end of the tube extending into the gasoline1 as shown in j1 ,fig4 #i4 ,a hose connection is now to be made with an air holder4 ,as it is necessary to have an air holder both for this process and the hydrogen gas process1 methods will be described for making air holders which can be used for either4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #i4--;,gas ,apparatus for ,burning the ,generator4 ,air ,holders4 ,different lead burners have different views on this subject4 ,some prefer the bellows1 with a contained air holder2 some the air holder built like a gasometer1 while others use an air holder similar to the generator in construction4 ,these all have their advantages4 ,for my part1 ,i own and use all three4 ,the advantage of the bellows is that it can be easily transported and does the work perfectly1 but it requires constant pumping1 which soon tires the helper1 and for that reason could not be used on jobs requiring more than four or five hours' labor4 ,the gasometer style of air holder is the easiest to use1 if one does not employ a helper and has a large amount of work to do4 ,the pressure can be regulated to suit the work by placing one or more weights upon it until the desired pressure is obtained4 ,it does not require pumping up more than three or four times a day1 which is its principal virtue4 ,it is a perfect shop apparatus4 ,its disadvantage is that it requires a large quantity of water to fill it1 which is not always available1 and when full it is so heavy that it requires a truck to move it around4 ,by far the best air holder is the one shown as part of the apparatus in ,fig4 #i1 and illustrated separately in ,fig4 #aj4 ,this only requires a few pails of water to fill it1 and the exact pressure of the gas can be had by building it the same hight as the hydrogen gas generator4 ,it does not require constant pumping1 and ,i recommend this air holder for general use1 as possessing more advantages1 with less trouble1 than any other air holder in use4 ,however1 all three will be described1 and the beginner can make the one most suited to the material available4 ,air ,holder ,no4 #a4 ,the beginner will notice in ,fig4 #aj that this air holder is so constructed that it gets its air pressure direct from the head of water1 and also that this pressure can be varied by making the connecting piece of pipe longer or shorter1 as may be desired4 ,of course1 the pressure will vary slightly as the water descends into the air chamber1 but not enough to make it objectionable1 as it will be the helper's duty to watch the water line and renew pumping as often as the water falls below a certain point4 ,to make this holder1 a tank1 a1 ,fig4 #aj1 #ab inches high and #ah inches in diameter1 should be constructed of galvanized sheet iron4 ,on this tank double seam a flat bottom4 ,the top must be raised slightly1 as shown1 to give it strength4 ,this can be done with the raising hammer1 or it can be done by making the circle for the top inch larger than the bottom1 then making a cut to the center4 ,it can then be drawn together and riveted in any desired pitch4 ,a hole must be punched in the center of this top large enough to receive a #a-;inch galvanized pipe1 b4 ,six inches apart and #b inches from the edge punch two holes1 c and d1 large enough to receive pieces of -inch galvanized pipe4 ,this top should then be fitted and placed on the body of the tank4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj4--;,air ,holder ,no4 #a4 ,take a piece of #a-;inch galvanized pipe1 e1 sufficiently long to touch the bottom and projecting #a inch out of the top of the tank1 cut a thread on the projecting end and drill the other end full of -inch holes1 f1 to the hight of #a inch1 to allow the water to flow freely4 ,this pipe rests on the bottom of the lower tank and carries the weight of the upper tank4 ,solder this pipe in place4 ,then take two -inch nipples1 #a inch long1 and solder them into their places1 and on these nipples screw two -inch hose end gas cocks1 c and d4 ,one of these cocks is for the purpose of connecting to the air pump1 and the other to the mixing cock4 ,as close as possible to the bottom of the tank solder in a -inch coupling1 g4 ,into this coupling screw a plug4 ,this is for the purpose of draining the tank when out of use4 ,now make another tank1 h1 #ai inches in diameter and #aa inches deep1 the top to be left open and wired with a heavy wire4 ,double seam a flat bottom on this tank4 ,directly in the center of this bottom punch a hole large enough to receive a #a-;inch coupling4 ,then cut a #a-;inch coupling in half and solder it into this hole1 putting the thread side down and leaving it as near flush with the outside of the tank as possible1 so that if it is desired to move the air holder to and from a job it can be taken apart and the lower tank nested in the upper tank1 making a compact bundle and reducing the danger of damage by careless handling4 ,to connect these tanks1 all that is required is a piece of #a-;inch iron pipe1 h1 #ab inches long1 with a coupling on one end4 ,to operate this air holder1 close the two air cocks on the lower1 or air1 tank2 then fill the upper tank nearly full of water1 taking care not to put too much in it1 or it will overflow the lower tank and get into the tubes1 and if this happens the tubes will have to be removed and hung up to dry1 or drops of water will be blown into the blow pipe and extinguish the flame4 ,it is then ready for use4 ,the air in the air chamber is compressed by the weight of the water in the upper tank1 and if the water line is at the same hight as the acid line in the hydrogen gas generator the pressure of air must be the same as the pressure of gas4 ,as air is used the water descends through the pipe and will gradually fill the lower chamber4 ,it can then be forced back into the water chamber by attaching the air pump to the cock h in ,fig4 #i1 or d in ,fig4 #aj1 without disturbing the gas or in any way interfering with the operator4 ,to connect with the cock h in ,fig4 #i it is only necessary to disconnect one line of hose and connect the pump2 then close the other cock and work the pump until air bubbles up in the upper tank2 then shut the cock1 remove the pump and connect the hose to the gasoline can1 open the cocks and the apparatus is ready for use4 ,air ,holder ,no4 #b4 ,to make the air holder shown in ,fig4 #aa1 take a sheet of ,no4 #bf gauge galvanized iron #cj inches wide4 ,make it into a cylinder #bf inches in diameter1 double seam a flat bottom on it1 and wire the top with -inch iron rod1 which will make it stiff enough to withstand the pressure of water4 ,close to the bottom and #c inches apart punch two holes1 a and b1 large enough to receive -inch galvanized pipe couplings4 ,solder these couplings in place4 ,on the inside of this tank and into these couplings screw two pieces of -inch pipe #d inches long with elbows pointing straight up4 ,into these elbows screw two pieces of -inch pipe long enough to come flush with the top of the tank ,f4 ,on the outside of the tank and into the -inch couplings screw two -inch nipples #b inches long1 and on these nipples screw two -inch hose end gas cocks4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa4--;,air ,holder ,no4 #b4 ,now1 with the same sized sheet iron1 make another tank #b inches smaller in diameter than the first tank4 ,this should have a flat bottom1 and be wired as previously described4 ,then take four strips of sheet iron #cj inches long and #b inches wide1 and form each into ,v shape lengthwise4 ,lay off the circumference of this tank in four equal spaces4 ,one side of the ,v-shaped pieces should then be soldered on at each space4 ,the other side should be left loose to allow for adjustment4 ,these pieces form the guides to the upper tank and prevent it from tipping sideways and binding4 ,two of the guides are shown in the illustration1 ,fig4 #aa4 ,the lower tank should now be filled about one-third full of water4 ,the upper tank should then be inverted and placed in it4 ,the air pump must then be connected to one of the -inch cocks with a short piece of hose1 and the air should be pumped into it until the upper tank rises to its highest level4 ,the pressure in this form of air holder must be regulated by weights1 and to secure #a pound of pressure it is necessary to place weights equal to #a pound for every inch in area contained in the opening in the upper tank4 ,two drop handles1 such as are used on heavy milk cans1 should be riveted and soldered on the sides of the tank to facilitate moving it about4 ,air ,holder ,no4 #c4 ,fig4 #ab is a cut of a bellows with a contained air holder4 ,it is not practical to try to make this article1 as it can be purchased from any plumbing supply house and is not expensive4 ,it is used principally by dentists1 but it is also used in laboratories to supply air to the compound blow pipe4 ,it consists of a small bellows held from the floor on iron legs1 with a spring inside the bellows to hold them open1 and has a rubber bag fastened to the under side to hold a small supply of air4 ,the rubber bag is incased in a string net to prevent it from becoming inflated too much and bursting4 ,this bag serves to equalize the pressure4 ,the size known as ,no4 #aj ,a will supply #ge cubic feet per hour at a pressure of #a pounds to the square inch1 which is sufficient for lead as heavy as #bd pounds4 ,for the light weight leads the pressure can be reduced by pumping lightly and not filling the bag more than half full4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab4--;,air ,holder ,no4 #c1 ,combined with ,bellows4 ,any of the three described air blast arrangements will answer the purpose1 so it is immaterial which is used1 and it is left to the discretion of the beginner to obtain whichever is the most convenient4 ,the ,blow ,pipe4 ,next comes the blow pipe4 ,the only practical compound blow pipe on the market is shown in ,fig4 #ac1 and is known as ,walmsley's4 ,this is a modification of the ,bunsen burner1 and consists of a bent blow pipe with the air tube in the center1 as shown in ,fig4 #ad4 ,it is a perfect working blow pipe in every respect1 and ,i should advise every one interested in the work to purchase one4 ,for while seams cannot be burned with it in any other position than horizontal1 it will be found useful in lengthening traps or lead bends1 for which purpose it is well adapted and can be put into instant use1 thereby saving its cost many times over in wiping solders4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ac4--,the ,walmsley ,compound ,blow ,pipe4 ,burning with ,illuminating ,gas4 ,with illuminating gas it is only necessary to connect the gas jet to the compound blow pipe with the hose and regulate the supply of gas with the gas cock4 ,the air inlet is then connected to the air holder1 or air may be supplied with the mouth1 but good results are not obtained with the mouth1 as only a good blow pipe solderer can keep up the blast necessary4 ,to burn the seams use the same flux and follow directions given for gasoline gas4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ad4--,sectional ,view of ,walmsley's ,blow ,pipe4 ,making the ,gasoline ,gas for ,burning the ,generator4 ,with a piece of -inch hose connect the top of the can ,c1 ,fig4 #i1 with the air holder ,d1 then connect the spout or gas outlet e of the can to the gas end f of the compound blow pipe4 ,the air outlet g of the compound blow pipe should then be connected to the remaining cock h1 in the air holder4 ,if the bellows is used1 it will be necessary to connect the air with -inch tee1 m1 in which three short nipples have previously been screwed4 ,the apparatus is now ready for use4 ,gasoline being really a liquid gas1 it takes its first opportunity to assume its natural shape4 ,the natural way to convert gasoline into gas is by simple evaporation4 ,so taking advantage of this fact1 the action will be thus3 ,by forcing air into and through a body of gasoline sufficient of the gasoline is taken up to form a dense vapor1 which will light and burn at the jet1 similar to illuminating gas4 ,with the admixture of air in the compound blow pipe1 it gives a flame of very intense heat4 ,but1 in common with illuminating gas1 it is so rich in carbon that it gives an oxidizing flame1 and makes it necessary to use a flux1 which should be ,yager's soldering salts mixed as per the directions on the bottle4 ,if this is difficult to procure1 a good substitute can be made by mixing equal parts of powdered borax and sal ammoniac in a little water4 ,to operate this device the air should be turned on the gasoline and lighted at the jet4 ,the air should then be admitted gradually until the flame is brought to the proper size and condition1 indicated by its being blue and pointed4 ,if too much gas is admitted the flame will be yellow and will blacken the work by depositing a coat of soot on it4 ,if too much air is admitted the flame will be ragged and noisy1 and the temperature will be too low to heat the metal4 ,the flame is at its best heat when it burns with a pale blue color which does not show any yellow streaks4 ,before attempting to burn the generator the beginner should practice on pieces of sheet lead4 ,it is next to impossible to burn seams in any other position than horizontal with this flame1 as it rapidly oxidizes the lead1 and in spite of all precaution the lead will become unmanageable in upright seams1 so that the beginner would waste time in practicing on seams in any other position than horizontal4 ,if directions have been followed in cutting the lead for the generator the seams will occur only in that position4 ,to burn the generator the seams should be shaved clean1 both on the under and upper sides1 for a distance of inch1 making a seam inch wide1 taking care to have the lead seams lie close to each other1 for1 if they do not1 this flame will cause the edges of the lead to spread away from each other and leave a hole that is difficult to patch4 ,now apply the flux with a small brush4 ,when the flame is in working order bring it quickly to bear on the end of the seam nearest you to be burned4 ,when it starts to fuse draw the flame as quickly away1 always drawing it to one side1 and from the upper to the lower sheet4 ,the melted drop will follow the flame and unite with the melted drop on the lower sheet4 ,it is necessary to have the shave hook near at hand1 so that1 in case of oxidizing when fusing1 the melted drop can be broken up and allowed to flow in place4 ,with a little practice and patience the generator can be burned all right in this manner4 ,this gas is perfectly safe and can be handled with impunity4 ,this method would1 of course1 be impracticable to use on a job of any size1 but ,i have used it several times where nothing else could be obtained1 and have always had very good success with it4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,connecting ,,the ,,apparatus4 ,we now assume that the generator is charged and the rest of the apparatus is finished and ready for use1 so we will proceed to connect it up ready for a trial4 ,about #cj feet of -inch heavy rubber tubing should be procured4 ,this hose should be heavy enough to allow of its being pulled around without kinking and shutting off the supply of gas4 ,a piece of this hose #e feet long should be slipped on the gas cock ,m on the generator1 shown in ,fig4 #a1 and then slipped over the gas inlet tube of the scrubbing cup n4 ,one must be sure that this is connected to the gas inlet tube1 which is the tube that dips under the water in the scrubbing cup4 ,with another #e-;foot piece of hose connect the gas outlet of scrubbing cup o to the right hand cock on the mixing fork f4 ,always connect the gas on the same side so as to avoid confusion of cocks4 ,then with a #aj-;foot piece of hose connect the air cock on the air holder p or bellows to the remaining cock on the mixing fork g4 ,an #h-;foot piece should be connected from the gas outlet on mixing fork e to the blow pipe i4 ,these tubes must fit tight to prevent any possible leak of gas1 and if they do not they should be tightened on with pieces of wire4 ,the remaining piece of hose can be used to connect the air pump ,c to the air inlet cock s on the air holder1 but if the bellows are used this will not be needed4 ,now place in the scrubbing cup a half dozen pieces of blue vitriol1 or copperas1 as it is commonly called4 ,then pour in clear water until it flows out of the trap screw z4 ,this screw can be made tight by using for packing a piece of wicking which has been saturated with tallow4 ,after preparing the apparatus as above1 refer to the cut of the complete apparatus and compare the connections on the cut with those made from the above directions1 to make positive that they are right4 ,if they agree1 the apparatus is now ready for use4 ,testing the ,apparatus4 ,it is necessary to test the generator for leaks1 as a small blow hole may sometimes be left in some of the seams or the cocks or cleaning screws become defective4 ,to do this1 first close the gas cock on the top of the gas chamber and make up the cleaning and charging screws1 which must be set on a bed of soft putty4 ,then fill the acid chamber full of hot water1 first measuring the water so as to ascertain just how much solution is required in proportion to the amount of water1 as it takes the same quantity at all times4 ,allow it to stand for a few moments1 then mark the water line with a pencil or nail1 when it should be left standing for an hour4 ,the water should stay at the mark indicated for an indefinite time4 ,if it sinks during this test it shows that there is a leak in the generator and it must be located and repaired4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ae4--,mixing ,fork4 ,to locate the leak the gas cock should be opened and the water allowed to run into the gas chamber4 ,if this does not show the leak1 force the water back into the acid chamber1 which is done by attaching the air pump to the gas cock4 ,then taking a piece of soap and making a stiff lather1 daub it over the cocks and cleaning and charging screw4 ,when the leak is found the escaping air will cause bubbles to be blown4 ,if the leak does not become apparent after the above process1 the side boards of the generator should be taken off and the operation repeated on the seams4 ,under no circumstances must the apparatus be left until there is absolutely no doubt as to its being perfectly tight1 as a slight leak would be likely to cause a disastrous explosion and injure or probably blind the operator4 ,flying vitriol is not a very pleasant thing to get in one's eyes4 ,the apparatus should be frequently tested in this manner3 ,before drawing off the water it is desirable to learn what amount of gas pressure there will be when the generator is charged1 so that the pressure of air and gas can be equalized4 ,the mathematical rule for this is to multiply the head in feet by #j4dcd1 and the result will be the pressure in pounds2 or an approximate way of determining the pressure is to allow pound pressure for every foot of head4 ,for example3 ,the hight of liquid in the generator measured from the bottom of the acid supply pipe to the top of the water or acid line1 when at its highest level1 would be #c feet4 ,allowing pound for every foot in hight would give a pressure of #a pounds1 which is slightly in excess of the mathematical rule1 which is #c #j4dcd #a4cjb1 or #a pound #d ounces1 but to be accurate it is well to attach a mercury gauge to the gas cock4 ,note the hight of the column of mercury4 ,then attach the gauge to the blast apparatus1 and if the floating air holder is used1 sufficient weight must be put on the top of air holder to raise the column of mercury to a point not quite as high as is indicated by the generator4 ,these weights can then be weighed and a similar weight made of lead to correspond1 which can be kept for permanent use4 ,if the bellows are used1 the size specified should be obtained1 and the pressure will be all right for this size generator without further trouble4 ,if the air holder indicated by ,fig4 #h is used1 all that is necessary is to make the hights of the water line in both generator and air holder equal1 and the pressure must be the same4 ,illustration ,fig4 #af4 ,fig4 #ag4 ,mixing ,forks4 ,the reason that the air pressure should not be heavier than the gas pressure is that if the air were the stronger there would be danger of the air working back into the gas tube and causing an explosion in the tubes2 consequently it is well to note this point carefully4 ,many lead burners will say that the pressure of air is of no consequence1 and all that is required is a sufficient supply2 but my experience and experiments have convinced me that when the pressures of air and gas are nearly equal the best results are obtained4 ,the ,mixing ,fork and ,blow ,pipe4 ,the mixing fork and blow pipe can be made in any plumbing shop and should be made of the smallest size pipe available4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ah4--;,blow ,pipe and ,tip4 ,to make the mixing fork1 purchase two -inch female hose end gas cocks and #b feet of -inch iron pipe size brass tubing4 ,take a piece of the tubing #ab inches long1 cut a regular iron pipe thread on each end1 then bend it over a mandrel stake or a piece of #d-;inch soil pipe into a half circle1 as shown in ,fig4 #ae1 so that the ends will come about #d inches apart4 ,in the center of this piece drill a -inch hole1 a4 ,then cut from the remaining piece of tubing a piece #c inches long4 ,solder1 or1 better yet1 have this piece brazed on to the bent piece at a1 taking care that no solder can run in and partially stop the hole a4 ,then screw the two -inch gas cocks on the ends b and c4 ,this will complete the mixing fork2 or this fork can be made by bending a piece of pipe at an angle1 as shown in ,fig4 #af2 then cut another piece equal in length to the bent piece from the angle e to the end4 ,one end of this piece must be filed to fit the piece d4 ,a hole can then be drilled at e4 ,threads must be cut on these ends1 after which they can be brazed together4 ,or a good fork can be had by using a special casting4 ,this casting is used for and is known as a beer switch1 and can be purchased of any dealer in bar supplies1 ,fig4 #ag4 ,the same pattern and size of cocks can be used for this fork as previously described4 ,neither of these mixing forks has any advantage over the other1 but three styles are given1 as possibly one may be easier to make than the other4 ,iron pipe may be used instead of brass if desired4 ,to make the blow pipe1 take the remaining piece of tubing and cut a thread on one end4 ,as the other end slips into the hose1 it does not need a thread4 ,the thread end must then be bent at right angles to the tubing1 as c1 ,fig4 #af4 ,this can be done by boring a hole in a block of hard wood just large enough for the tubing to enter1 and #a inches deep4 ,trim off the sharp edge of this hole so as not to kink the pipe in bending4 ,the end of the tube can then be inserted in this hole and bent to the desired shape1 as shown4 ,this completes the blow pipes with the exception of the tips1 of which you should have three sizes1 drilled as follows3 ,one for heavy lead1 #c-cb2 one for medium weight1 #b-cb1 and one for very light sheets1 #a-cb4 ,these tips are made of small pieces of cast or turned brass1 preferably with a milled shoulder1 so as to facilitate removing with the fingers4 ,probably the easiest way to get these tips is to make a pattern out of wood and have several of them cast4 ,they can then be drilled and tapped to any desired size1 or they can be cut from a round bar of brass or copper1 filed or turned to a point1 then drilled and tapped4 ,the dimensions and particulars can be had from ,b in ,fig4 #ah without further description being necessary4 ,a common blow pipe1 such as is used with the alcohol torch1 can be used for practicing on light sheets4 ,but the beginner is advised to procure the blow pipe and a set of tips described in ,fig4 #ah before attempting to burn any heavy lead4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,charging ,,the ,,generator4 ,after making sure that the generator is perfectly tight we will proceed to charge it4 ,after removing the #d-;inch charging screw take #ae pounds of commercial spelter1 which has been broken up with a hammer into pieces about #b inches square1 and place this in the gas chamber1 distributing it as evenly as possible over the perforated bottom4 ,this is done so that the zinc will expose all the surface possible to the action of the acid1 and must be observed in order to obtain the best results4 ,do not put any pieces of spelter into the generator that are small enough to drop through the perforated bottom1 for if they do they will be likely to generate gas1 which will give overpressure and blow gas out through the acid chamber4 ,this can do no harm unless close to a light1 but it is very annoying to have acid blown all over the generator4 ,the charging and cleaning screws must be screwed up tight4 ,after closing the gas cock on the generator take the quantity of water 7less one-seventh7 that was found to be necessary when testing the apparatus1 and pour this into the acid chamber4 ,mark the water line and watch it for a few moments to make sure that everything is tight4 ,then take of sulphuric acid a quantity equal to one-seventh of the water used1 and pour that into the water in the acid chamber4 ,it will diffuse itself through the water and thoroughly mix4 ,experience has taught me that acid mixed in any proportion stronger than seven parts of water to one part of acid does not act as quickly as when mixed in the proportion mentioned4 ,the reason for this is that the strong acid simply coats the zinc with a deposit or scum of sulphate of zinc1 which is soluble in water1 but is not soluble in acid4 ,therefore1 if the acid is diluted with water to the above mentioned proportion the water readily dissolves the sulphate and allows the acid to act freely on the zinc4 ,this sulphate falls to the bottom of the gas chamber and if allowed to accumulate causes the clogging mentioned later4 ,the beginner will observe from the explanation that the generator cannot be crowded by making the solution strong4 ,it sometimes occurs that the vitriol seems to be stronger than usual1 and then again the reverse is also true4 ,good vitriol should be almost as thick as cutting oil1 and will work very quickly4 ,care must be taken in pouring it into the generator to prevent spattering4 ,this is best avoided by having a quart measure made of lead for this purpose4 ,it should also be borne in mind that the acid should always be added to the water1 never the water to the acid1 as this mixture always generates heat1 and the result would be similar to adding water to hot lead4 ,automatic ,action of the ,generator4 ,the generator works best while hot4 ,the gas cock on the generator should now be opened and the mixture allowed to flow into the gas chamber until it spurts out of the gas cock1 which must then be closed4 ,by this action all the air in the gas chamber is expelled1 leaving it free to generate pure gas at once4 ,this is a sure method of exhausting the air in the gas chamber4 ,the acid then attacks the zinc1 causing it to decompose the water and free the hydrogen contained in the acid4 ,this gas1 by reason of its lightness1 will rise to the surface of the acid1 and as pressure increases it will force the acid back up through the acid supply pipe into the acid chamber1 until the acid falls below the perforated bottom4 ,when the acid and zinc cease to come in contact with each other the generation of gas stops until gas is used1 which relieves the pressure2 then more acid descends1 and as it comes in contact with the zinc more gas is generated1 replacing that which has been used4 ,this action makes the generator automatic1 unless clogging with sulphate of zinc takes place4 ,this may happen at any time if the apparatus is not cleaned after each day's use4 ,cleaning the ,generator4 ,to clean the generator in this case attach the air pump to the gas cock on the generator and force the acid up into the acid chamber by pumping air slowly into the gas chamber until the acid rises to the proper hight in the acid chamber1 where it can be held by forcing a long wooden plug into the acid supply pipe4 ,the pumping must cease when the acid rises to the proper level1 or the excess pressure of air will work up through the supply pipe and cause a blow of acid4 ,the charging screw can then be removed and the zinc taken out and washed in hot water4 ,remove the clean out screw and run one or two pails of hot water through the gas chamber4 ,this will remove the deposits of sulphate paste4 ,the zinc can then be replaced1 the screws tightened and the acid released again4 ,be sure and exhaust the air in the gas chamber1 as previously described1 by letting the air spurt out of the gas cock before connecting it to the scrubbing cup4 ,care must be taken not to have any lights near the generator when blowing out this mixture of gas and air1 as it is very explosive4 ,the apparatus will never clog if cleaned after each day's work1 which should always be done4 ,the tubes should be removed and hung up over night to dry4 ,the acid1 if not spent1 can be dipped out of the acid chamber and placed in jugs4 ,the generator can then be carried to a drain and filled with hot water1 which should be allowed to flow out through the cleaning screw4 ,this will clean the zinc and wash out all the sulphate deposit4 ,the screws may then be tightened and the apparatus left ready for the next day's use4 ,fire ,trap and ,scrubbing ,cup4 ,one of the most essential parts of a lead burning apparatus is a reliable fire trap and scrubbing cup4 ,this trap reduces to a minimum the danger from explosion caused by neglecting to free the gas from air4 ,its use as a scrubbing cup is also of infinite value4 ,the action of the vitriol on the zinc produces a violent ebullition1 and a small quantity of the acid is carried in the form of spray from the generator to the tubes1 and1 unless caught and removed1 will frequently get into the blow pipe tip and extinguish the flame1 making it necessary to remove the hose and hang it up to drain and dry1 which oftentimes causes waste of time and annoyance4 ,almost all spelter or zinc contains more or less arsenic in a metallic state4 ,it is also found in sulphuric acid4 ,this arsenic is released from the acid or zinc as they decompose and is carried by the force of the volume of gas to the blow pipe tip1 where1 owing to it being necessary for the operator to get his eyes close to the flames in order to see the reducing flame1 this poisonous gas will be breathed into the lungs and oftentimes cause a fatal illness4 ,this fact has been disputed by many1 who say that it is impossible for the unit of lightness--i4 e41 hydrogen gas--to pick up and carry a heavy metal such as arsenic4 ,arsenic does not form a chemical combination with hydrogen1 having a very slight affinity for it1 but is carried to the blow pipe solely by the force of the volume of gas4 ,to prove the above assertion we will refer to ,professor ,marsh1 who demonstrated the ability of hydrogen to carry arsenic in the following manner3 ,if a solution containing arsenic be added to a solution of sulphuric acid and zinc1 the resulting hydrogen will1 upon ignition1 deposit a ring of metallic arsenic upon any cold surface that the flame be directed upon4 7,professor ,marsh's experiment47 ,it will be seen from the above that it is imperative that the operator use a scrubbing cup and see that it is properly filled with a solution of blue vitriol4 ,the ordinary impurities of hydrogen generated in this manner are sulphur and carbon1 which should be removed if possible4 ,the actual use of the scrubbing cup is to catch the above mentioned spray and precipitate to some extent all other impurities contained in the gas1 and produce gas sufficiently pure for lead burning4 ,directions for ,making the ,cup4 ,to make this cup take a piece of #d-;inch lead pipe #g inches long 7an ordinary piece of #d-;inch lead soil pipe will do72 flange out one end and burn in a flat bottom4 ,three inches from the bottom1 and in the side of this #d-;inch pipe1 burn in a trap screw1 a1 ,fig4 #ai1 a screw taken from an old lead trap being just the thing4 ,this is to regulate the hight of the solution in the cup4 ,now make a top by taking a piece of lead and raising it about inch2 punch two holes in this top1 b and c1 large enough to let a -inch lead pipe pass through2 flange out the top of the cup and fit and burn this top in place4 ,take two pieces of -inch lead pipe1 one to be #c inches long and the other to be #aj inches long1 and with the dresser draw one end of each to nearly a point1 so that the hose can be slipped on tight4 ,the long piece c should now be slipped through one of the holes in the top of the cup1 holding it inch from the bottom d and burning it in4 ,this is the gas inlet and should be marked as such4 ,the short piece is then placed in the remaining hole and burnt in place4 ,the action will be thus3 ,the gas entering the gas inlet pipe is caused to pass through a solution of blue vitriol #b inches deep1 when the acid is caught and the gas is scrubbed and rendered as nearly pure as possible4 ,it then enters the outlet pipe and is ready for use4 ,if the directions have been followed the cup will resemble the illustration ,fig4 #ag4 ,no trouble will be experienced with this cup4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ai4--;,fire ,trap and ,scrubbing ,cup4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,the ,,flame ,,and ,,its ,,management4 ,before attempting to light the gas the operator must be sure that all the air is exhausted from the tubes4 ,otherwise the flame will go back and explode in the tubes or fire trap4 ,to be sure of this the beginner must test the gas4 ,a handy test tube can be made by capping one end of a piece of -inch pipe1 which should be about #f inches long4 ,to test the gas1 first open wide the gas cock ,m on the generator1 ,fig4 #a4 ,then open the gas cock f on the mixing fork and let the gas displace the air in the tubes1 which it will do in about one minute4 ,then invert the test tube1 ,fig4 #bj1 and hold it over the blow pipe tip for a moment until the gas has displaced the air in the tube4 ,then quickly place your thumb over the opening of the test tube1 which will keep the gas from escaping4 ,close the gas cock f on the mixing fork1 then take the test tube to one side away from the generator1 still keeping it inverted1 and bring it close to a lighted match or candle4 ,it will light with a pop1 and if it is free from air it will burn quietly down in the tube until the gas is exhausted4 ,continue to test the gas in this manner until it burns as described1 when it may be safely lit at the jet without fear of its burning back4 ,this precaution is necessary only after opening the generator for some purpose4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bj4--,method of ,testing ,gas4 ,regulating ,volume and ,pressure4 ,this generator evolves gas under a greater pressure than can be used on most work1 and for this reason the flame will at first be long1 noisy and unsteady1 as shown in ,a1 ,fig4 #ba1 but1 as there are two cocks1 the volume and pressure can be regulated to the requirements of the work at hand4 ,now1 to note the peculiarities of this flame1 we will close the gas cock f on the mixing fork until the flame is about #c inches long4 ,it will be of a pale reddish color and will burn steadily4 ,the inner flame is not as yet very well defined4 ,then open the air cock g slowly1 and when sufficient air has been admitted the flame will be seen to shoot out suddenly and then shorten to about #a or #b inches in length4 ,it will be smooth1 compact1 and will have the appearance of darting rapidly4 ,if the correct quantity of air has been admitted the inner flame1 as shown in ,b1 ,fig4 #ba1 will then be plainly seen1 and its apex1 which is the point of greatest heat1 will be blue4 ,this inner flame is known as the nonoxidizing flame1 and is the flame with which the fusing is done4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ba4--;,flames ,under ,different ,pressures4 ,the outer flame will change to a bluish color4 ,its temperature is low1 and its effect on the lead is to coat the metal with a heavy blue oxide1 under which the lead runs but does not unite4 ,to demonstrate this1 bring the point of the inner or nonoxidizing flame to bear on a piece of sheet lead4 ,it will fuse bright and clean and will have a circle of gray oxide around it4 ,then quickly remove the flame and the spot will remain bright4 ,now1 again bring the flame to bear on the same piece of lead1 keeping the point of the inner flame at least inch away from the lead4 ,it will melt and flow together1 but will be covered with a coat of gray oxide and the union will not be perfect4 ,slowly withdraw the flame1 and before the flame is entirely removed the spot will be heavily coated with a thick blue oxide1 under which the lead will not unite4 ,c1 in ,fig4 #ba1 shows the appearance of the flame when too much air has been admitted and it is on the point of going out from lack of gas4 ,the proper way to use the gas is to open wide the gas cock ,m on the generator1 and do any regulating of the flame with the gas cock f on the mixing fork4 ,these cocks should have pieces of heavy wire brazed or soldered lengthwise of the handles1 ,fig4 #af1 h and i1 so as to form lever handles4 ,this will allow the gas and air cocks to be closed or opened by gently tapping the levers h and i1 which is the only way that a slight variation can be had1 for if you try to regulate them with the finger you will constantly open or close them too much1 and the result is that in adding air too much is always admitted1 which will blow out the flame1 making it necessary to turn off the air and light the jet again1 and many times this operation will have to be repeated before the flame is correctly adjusted4 ,it must be remembered to always turn on and light the gas before admitting any air1 and when through with the flame the air must be turned off first1 then the gas4 ,if this operation is reversed an explosive mixture of gas and air would form in the tube and would spoil the tube1 if nothing worse4 ,study the ,flame ,well4 ,the beginner should study the flame until perfectly familiar with the color and form of the proper flame4 ,one of the greatest troubles that the beginner will have with the blow pipe is the inability to regulate the flame to the requirements of the work4 ,for instance3 ,a flame that would work nicely on #ab-pound sheets would burn holes in #d-pound sheets before you had time to touch the lead with the inner flame4 ,for that reason three different sizes of tips should be used4 ,on a #b-pound sheet the smallest1 or #a-cb1 tip should be used1 and the flame before reducing should not be longer than inch1 and when reduced the inner flame can hardly be distinguished1 but you can easily tell when it touches the lead by the metal fusing bright4 ,if it is desired to fuse #ab-pound sheets the #b-cb-;inch tip should be substituted1 and it would be found necessary to have the jet of gas about #c inches long1 which1 when reduced1 would be about #b inches long and would show the inner flame very distinctly4 ,the only way to determine the size of the flame necessary is by experimenting with it4 ,it will also come with experience4 ,the flame should be reduced to a size that will not melt the lead as soon as it touches it4 ,rather1 it should be in such condition that the lead would have to be heated first and let the fusing come gradually4 ,in that way it can be determined just what sized drop is required1 and also plenty of time is allowed to place it just where it is wanted--particularly on upright seams and imperatively on inverted seams4 ,it is not necessary to be so particular on horizontal seams1 as on seams in that position you are assisted by gravity4 ,the lead drop that is melted from the upper lap cannot do otherwise than unite with the under lap4 ,it must be remembered that in starting a seam you have cold lead to fuse1 and after the first drop is started the lead in its vicinity will be heated almost to the melting point1 and you will probably be surprised to see the lead run at the approach of the flame for the next application4 ,do ,not ,hurry4 ,the point to be taught here is that you must not attempt to hurry this work or holes will surely be burned in the sheets1 which oftentimes makes difficult work to patch4 ,the old adage1 8haste makes waste10 can well be applied to lead burning4 ,sufficient time must be allowed for one drop to set before attempting to place the next drop4 ,time spent on practicing at the bench is time well spent1 as many little details that cannot be brought to the beginner's attention here will be learned in that way and stored in his mind for future application4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,the ,,different ,,kinds ,,of ,,seams4 ,there are two kinds of seams proper1 viz43 ,the butt seam and the lap seam4 ,the butt seam is used principally for joining horizontal waste pipes and in lengthening traps1 or for any purpose where it is desired not to have the point of junction show4 ,this form of seam can be burned clear through--that is1 the lead can be heated until fusion takes place nearly through the entire sheet4 ,it is generally necessary to add lead to the seam if it is desired to make the seam as strong as the sheet it joins1 unless the article to be burned is of such a size as to be possible to allow of its being burned on both sides1 which makes the strongest of seams4 ,the lead for the butt seams is prepared by rasping the edges of the lead sheet to be joined straight and true1 ,fig4 #bb1 so that when the edges of the lead are brought together they will fit close its entire length4 ,the edges are then shaved for a distance of inch each side of the edge1 making a seam inch wide4 ,on stock heavier than #ab-pound sheets the edge should be shaved off1 making a deep ,v-shaped groove1 and the seams must be made by adding lead4 ,this allows the fusion to take place nearly through the sheet4 ,the butt seam is the simplest form to burn1 no matter in what position it is placed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bb4--,rasping the ,edges of the ,lead ,sheet ,straight and ,true4 ,the lap seam is the seam commonly used1 and as between the butt seam and the lap seam the latter is generally to be preferred4 ,as it is not necessary to cut and trim the edges true1 it dispenses with any additions of lead1 except at rare intervals2 it leaves the left hand free to handle the shave hook1 and the lap can be dressed to fit any uneven spots4 ,it also makes the next best seam to through fusing4 ,by lap seaming a tank can be lined in about half the time required to butt seam the same article1 which is an important item to the customer4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bc4--;,burning a ,lap ,seam4 ,the lead for this form of seam is prepared1 as its name indicates1 by lapping one sheet to inch over the other sheet4 ,the under edges are to be shaved clean1 as also the upper edge4 ,the lead required to make the seam is melted from the upper lap and is fused on the lower sheet4 ,there is no reason why the lead at the point of juncture cannot be made as thick as the original lead4 ,this is the point aimed at in practicing1 and the only accurate way to determine the relative strength of the seams is to cut squarely across a finished seam1 then bend the beam slightly4 ,the thickness can then be noted4 ,a cross section of a perfect lap seam is shown at a in ,fig4 #bc4 ,the beginner should practice the different seams until the thickness of the joint can be told by the looks of the lead4 ,a few days' diligent practice at the bench will soon train the eye to note any imperfection that may arise4 ,the different seams will be taken up serially4 ,a description of how the seams are prepared and the several positions of the blow pipe1 as well as the little difficulties that may arise1 is the extent of the instruction that can be given4 ,the rest must come with practice and the application of a little common sense4 ,there is no royal road to this business2 but practice1 and practice hard1 is the only way to satisfactorily master the blow pipe and flame1 and in practicing remember that all this work has been done before1 and can be easily done again1 and by you4 ,do not get discouraged by failure to make a perfect seam at the first application1 but stick to it for a short time and it will be found to be a most fascinating pastime1 for which the persistent student will eventually be well repaid4 ,flat ,butt ,seam4 ,for practicing ,i would recommend the beginner to use pieces of sheet lead about #ab inches long1 as strips of that length are much easier to prepare4 ,the edges are straightened with a fine rasp which is held lengthwise of and parallel to the edge to be trued1 in the manner shown in ,fig4 #bb4 ,the rasp must be used lightly1 or it will be apt to tear the lead and so leave it in worse condition than before using it4 ,the edge should then be gone over with the shave hook and cleaned4 ,then shave the top surface a distance of inch each way from the edge1 which will make a seam inch wide when finished4 ,then butt the edges together and secure the sheets firmly to a board with a few tacks4 ,the extra lead that is necessary to add to make a butt joint full must be obtained from a strip of lead1 which should be about inch square and shaved clean4 ,after regulating the flame to the proper size and shape the burning should be begun at the end of the seam nearest the operator4 ,with the point of the inner flame melt off a drop from the lead strip and have it fall squarely on the seam just slightly in advance of the point of fusion4 ,follow it up with the flame1 placing the point of the inner flame directly over the edges of the seam1 which is almost under the lead drop4 ,as soon as fusion commences on the lead seam the melted drop will flow to the bright spot and immediately unite with it4 ,the flame must then be quickly removed and the drop be allowed to set4 ,in order to avoid any misunderstanding regarding the time required for the lead drop to set ,i would say that the drop will cool immediately upon the flame being removed from contact with it4 ,it is not necessary to wait for any specified time1 but if the flame is allowed to play constantly on the sheet it is apt to get overheated1 and when in that condition it takes very little heat to set the lead running like water4 ,to avoid this the flame should be lifted clear of the seam for an instant after each drop has been fused into place4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bd4--;,burning a ,flat ,butt ,seam4 ,these remarks apply to all seams that are made by the blow pipe process and should be noted1 as this particular point will not be referred to again4 ,now melt off another drop and let it fall as before1 only it should lap on the previous drop about one-half its diameter4 ,secure it to the seam as before4 ,this operation should be repeated until the seam is completed1 and if the seam is correctly done a section will appear as a in ,fig4 #bd4 ,this form of flat seam should be practiced until perfectly familiar with the blow pipe flame and until the beginner can approach the lead with the flame without burning holes through it1 which will probably be the first thing to happen4 ,upright ,butt ,seam4 ,the upright butt seam is seldom used on large work1 as it is a difficult matter to make an upright butt seam that will stand the test1 as1 if a finished seam is cut into short pieces1 an examination of the severed ends will show many weak places that were previously thought to be very strong4 ,the reason of this is that the heat necessary to fuse through the lead will cause the lead to run from the seam and leave a hole4 ,the sheets for practice are prepared as described for flat butt seams1 and must be securely tacked to a board which can be supported in an upright position4 ,the burning is begun at the bottom of the seam4 ,the flame must be shortened considerably1 as the fusing must take place somewhat slower than in flat seams1 as in upright or inverted seams the attraction of gravity remains to be overcome1 and the operator must have plenty of time between the commencement of brightening and the actual fusing to drive the melting drop to the exact position desired4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #be4--;,burning an ,upright ,butt ,seam4 ,the blow pipe is held so that the flame strikes the seam squarely and at about a right angle with the sheet1 as shown in ,fig4 #be4 ,when fusion starts the flame should be drawn quickly to one side1 and if the lead is at the proper temperature the melted drop will follow the point of flame1 and as it comes in contact with the adjoining edge it will properly unite4 ,it is not necessary to add lead to these seams oftener than at intervals of #e or #f inches1 or as often as the lead shows signs of weakening1 when it may be added by holding the lead strip against the lead sheet and slightly above the flame4 ,the melted drop will unite with the sheet and can then be driven to any desired position4 ,this seam will show the characteristic beads1 but they will lie nearly level with the lead sheets1 and if a scratch cloth be rubbed over the seam all traces of the position of the seam will be removed4 ,to make a really strong seam it must be gone over with the flame at least twice1 as after fusion of the edges takes place the flame can be used quite strong without fear of the lead running from the seam4 ,do not leave this seam until you are satisfied that it is nearly perfect4 ,it is good practice1 and every hour spent only makes the mastery of the next seam come so much more quickly4 ,horizontal ,butt ,seam4 ,this form of seam cannot be used to any advantage on general work1 but1 like seams in other positions1 it cannot always be avoided4 ,the practice sheets are prepared and tacked securely to the board1 as previously described1 and are then placed in the position shown in ,fig4 #bf4 ,the position of the blow pipe is as shown at a4 ,the flame should strike the sheet nearly square4 ,the edge of the upper sheet should be heated first1 and as it brightens the flame should be directed onto the edge of the lower sheet4 ,if properly done1 fusion will at once take place4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bf4--;,burning a ,horizontal ,butt ,seam4 ,the object sought is to get a light fusion between the two sheets before attempting to burn the lead clear through the seam4 ,if this is not done1 the lead will run from the upper sheet and cause holes1 or at least will seriously weaken the upper sheet1 as shown in cross section at b4 ,after fusion is once obtained it is a simple matter to go over the seam a second time1 which can then be fused clear through without much danger of burning holes through the sheet4 ,lead can be added in the same manner as in upright seams if necessary4 ,inverted ,butt ,seam4 ,this seam is used extensively in joining waste pipes which conduct the acid from tanks to the drain4 ,these pipes are usually in a horizontal position and the seams must be burned in place4 ,the most difficult part of the seam is in starting it4 ,when fusion has once taken place the balance of the seam is easy4 ,the seam is prepared the same as described for other butt seams4 ,care must be taken to have the edges butt close4 ,the board can then be supported in the required position by any convenient device4 ,the blow pipe flame must be made as short as possible and still melt the lead4 ,the point of the inner flame is then placed squarely on the seam4 ,both edges must be heated at once4 ,if the edges begin to brighten and do not show an inclination to fuse1 the flame should be drawn quickly to one side1 and the melted drop will follow the point of flame and unite with the adjoining edge4 ,this seam1 in common with the other butt seams1 should be gone over the second time to assure a perfect seam4 ,it is difficult work to add lead to the flat inverted seam4 ,when necessary to do so1 however1 it can be added by burning the end of the lead strip to the seam4 ,the strip is then melted off1 leaving a drop of lead affixed to the seam1 which can then be drawn to the required spot with the flame4 ,the characteristic inverted seam shows pits upon examination of the reverse side of the sheets4 ,these are caused by overheating4 ,the operator will often be surprised at the inverted butt seam showing a remarkable fullness4 ,this is accounted for upon the examination above referred to4 ,the lead1 upon the application of the heat1 runs from the upper or back side of the sheet and forms a very full seam4 ,for that reason the inverted butt seams always appear stronger than they really are4 ,see inverted lap seam1 ,fig4 #bg4 ,lap ,seams4 ,the lap seams are the seams commonly used on all classes of work4 ,when the beginner becomes proficient with the blow pipe no trouble will be experienced in making lap seams that will show when cut a joint equal in thickness to the sheets that are joined4 ,the lead sheets for the flat lap seam are prepared by shaving clean the exposed edge2 also1 shave the sheets where they touch each other4 ,the upper edges can then be shaved for a distance of inch each side of the lap1 which will make the finished seam inch wide1 as shown at a in ,fig4 #bc4 ,the sheets should be lapped to inch1 according to the weight of the stock4 ,it is very evident that light weights would not require as large a lap as would heavier sheets1 as the object of lapping the sheets is to leave the sheets practically as one piece1 and the lead1 to accomplish this object1 is to be melted from the upper sheet4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bg4--;,burning an ,inverted ,lap ,seam4 ,from the foregoing it will be seen why a #ab-pound sheet requires a -inch lap1 while a #bd-pound sheet would require a -inch lap4 ,the flame1 when regulated to the work1 is brought to bear squarely on the edge of the upper sheet1 slanting slightly in the direction of the lower sheet1 as shown4 ,when the edge has brightened almost to the fusing point the blow pipe should be drawn quickly to one side and from the upper sheet to the lower sheet4 ,if the metal is sufficiently hot the melted drop will follow the point of the flame and instantly fuse with the lower sheet1 and if properly done the seam will resemble b in ,fig4 #bc4 ,this process is repeated1 advancing about to inch each time4 ,do not attempt to fuse a large surface at a time4 ,experts cannot do such a thing satisfactorily1 so why should a beginner try to8 ,rather1 try to fuse small surfaces quickly and strongly1 as better work and more of it can be accomplished in that manner4 ,horizontal ,lap ,seams4 ,this seam is prepared precisely as described for flat lap seams4 ,the strips can be fastened to a board with a few tacks4 ,the strips can then be supported in the position shown in ,fig4 #bh4 ,the burning is commenced1 as before1 at the side nearest the operator4 ,the flame must be made as short as is consistent with the weight of the stock4 ,it will be found to the beginner's advantage to have fusion take place slowly4 ,the point of the inner flame is brought to bear on the outer edge of the lapped sheet and at an angle of #de degrees4 ,both sheets should begin to brighten at about the same time4 ,the melted drop must be driven against the back sheet by the force of the jet of flame1 and if the sheets are clean fusion will take place quickly4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bh4--;,burning a ,horizontal ,lap ,seam4 ,the drops or beads of lead will appear very small on this form of seam1 owing to that great obstacle1 gravity1 which causes the drop when melted to flow downward and so swell the seam4 ,the drops1 in common with other forms of lap seams1 should be made short1 letting each drop overlap the previous drop as much as possible4 ,great care must be taken not to weaken the seam1 as shown at a4 ,the beginner should strive to get the seams so that when cut into small sections each section will resemble the result shown at b4 ,upright ,lap ,seams4 ,prepare the sheets as for flat lap seams1 fastening the sheets securely to a board1 as previously described4 ,the burning should be begun at the lowest point of the seam4 ,after regulating the flame1 the point of the inner flame is applied to the edge of the outer sheet slightly above the point decided upon as the starting point1 and at an angle of about #cj degrees1 as shown at a in ,fig4 #bi4 ,as the drop begins to melt it will have a tendency to flow downward4 ,by a quick turn of the wrist the flame must then be directed against the back sheet and slightly under the melting drop4 ,the under sheet should brighten at once1 and the force of the flame1 being partially directed against the melted drop1 tends to force it against the bright spot on the back sheet1 with which it instantly unites4 ,the flame must then be withdrawn for an instant1 to give the fused drop time to set4 ,the operation must be repeated until the seam is finished4 ,using ordinary language1 it may be said that the drop is cut from the upper sheet1 carried slightly downward and then stuck against the back sheet by the force of the flame4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bi4--;,burning an ,upright ,lap ,seam4 ,this seam is the one most used1 and the beginner should practice it diligently4 ,after mastering it in the position shown in the cut1 the board should be fastened to the floor and the beginner should practice burning the upright seam from above the work4 ,this position occurs many times in lining tanks1 and the beginner who conquers the upright seam in that position can consider himself sufficiently proficient to attend to any job of lead burning that may arise4 ,the beads of lead will appear more compact and regular than in the flat seam1 and if properly done will upon cutting the sample show a very strong joint4 ,inverted ,lap ,seam4 ,this seam should be attempted only after becoming very proficient with the blow pipe and flame1 after which it becomes as easy to burn as in any other position4 ,in order to get the range of the seam the sheets should be arranged in the position shown in ,fig4 #bg4 ,the burning is begun on the upright seam1 and continued up and over the curved portion and on to the inverted seam4 ,the graduation from the upright seam to the inverted seam is simple and gradual1 and is hardly noticeable4 ,after accomplishing the inverted seam in this manner1 strips of lead should be prepared and fastened to the board as described for upright seams4 ,the board should be supported in an inverted position at a convenient hight over the operator's head4 ,the flame should be shortened as much as possible4 ,the burning may be started at any convenient point and continue in each direction4 ,the point of the inner flame is applied to the seam at a slight angle1 as a4 ,the object is to obtain a fusion between the back sheet and the upper edge of the lap4 ,when this is accomplished fusion proceeds easily4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cj4--;,burning an ,inverted ,corner ,seam4 ,the hardest part of this seam is in starting it1 and when once started1 with a little patience and care1 the balance of the seam can be fused without any trouble4 ,fig4 #cj shows an exercise which the beginner should practice after having conquered ,fig4 #bg1 as it teaches the making of an inverted corner seam4 ,of course1 this position seldom occurs in small work1 but if the burning of it is once accomplished it will give the operator considerable confidence in his own ability4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,pipe ,,seams4 ,the ,butt ,seam on ,round ,pipe4 ,pipes that are placed in a horizontal position are usually butt seamed1 as a stronger seam can be made in that manner4 ,this form of seam is also used in lengthening traps1 bends1 etc4 ,to prepare a round pipe for butt seaming1 the ends of the pipe should first be made perfectly round by inserting a drift plug and dressing the lead up close to it4 ,the ends of the pipe should be rasped true and then shaved clean4 ,also shave the pipe for a distance of inch each side of the edge4 ,a piece of stiff writing paper should then be rolled up the size of the pipe and inserted in the ends4 ,this paper will prevent any lead from running into the pipe and leaving rough edges1 as these afterward form an obstruction4 ,the burning should be commenced at the under side of the pipe1 ,fig4 #ca1 and proceed both ways from the starting point and finish at the top4 ,if the beginner has successfully overcome the difficulties of the seams preceding this he will find no trouble in making a strong and workmanlike seam on this pipe4 ,pipes are seldom used heavier than the grade known as ,d for this class of work1 and for that reason it is seldom necessary to add lead to these seams4 ,but if a hole should be burned in the pipe on the under side1 lead should be added to the top side of the pipe and then made to follow the flame to the desired spot4 ,this will be found a quicker and more certain method than attempting to add lead directly to the hole4 ,a properly burned pipe should show the full thickness of the pipe when cut with a saw4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ca4--;,burning a ,butt ,seam on ,round ,pipe4 ,through ,seam on ,round ,pipe4 ,where heavy pipe that is to be used under pressure is to be joined it must be burned through to provide strength1 and the ends prepared in the same way as just described1 but the ends must also be trimmed off all the way around with a slight bevel reaching from the outside almost to the inside bore of the pipe4 ,the bevel must stop so as to allow a narrow square butt end on each pipe4 ,then when a piece of paper has been placed on the inside to prevent lead running into the pipe1 the two ends when butted will present a ,v-shaped groove1 as shown in ,fig4 #cb1 reaching all around the pipe4 ,the burning is commenced at the bottom1 as shown in ,fig4 #ca1 and the two ends securely united4 ,the groove is then filled by burning on additional lead from a thin cleaned strip until the groove is filled and the pipe made as heavy and strong at this point as anywhere on its entire length4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cb4--;,joint ,prepared for ,through ,burning4 ,the ,lap ,seam on ,round ,pipe4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cc4--,preparing for a ,lap ,seam4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cd4--;,burning a ,lap ,seam on ,round ,pipe4 ,this seam is used almost exclusively on pipe in a vertical position1 and is similar to the horizontal lap seam4 ,the pipe is prepared by spreading the lower piece of pipe with a drift plug one size larger than the size of the pipe used4 ,the end of the pipe intended to enter this socket is rasped to a bevel edge1 as shown at a1 ,fig4 #cc4 ,this end is then shaved clean1 as is also the inside of the socket4 ,the pipe is then placed into the socket1 which is then dressed up tight against the inserted pipe1 as shown in ,fig4 #cd4 ,the exposed edge is then cleaned and burned1 as described for horizontal lap seams4 ,the ,tee ,joint on ,round ,pipe4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ce4--,making a ,tee ,joint on ,round ,pipe4 ,with a pair of compasses set the diameter of the pipe that it is desired to insert1 and strike a circle on the pipe which is to receive the tee4 ,with a tap borer1 or any other device1 cut out a circle of lead1 leaving about inch to turn up4 ,then draw this remaining lead up by means of a bending iron and a heavy piece of iron1 such as a chisel1 as shown at ,b in ,fig4 #ce1 until the hole is large enough to receive the piece intended for it1 the end of which should be beveled with a fine rasp1 as shown at a4 ,the lead should then be dressed back against the pipe1 after which remove the piece and shave clean1 and proceed to burn as described for the lap seam on round pipe1 and as shown in ,fig4 #cf4 ,care must be taken in dressing up the lead flange to dress it slowly so as to avoid weakening the lead4 ,lining ,tanks4 ,the lining of chemical tanks being the principal work of the chemical plumber1 a description of how this work is done will probably be of some use to the beginner4 ,in preparing lead sheets for a tank the sheets should be cut so as to give the most seams on the bottom1 because of the greater ease in making them4 ,in large tanks ,i find it convenient to put the bottom in first1 cutting it to make an easy fit1 and then the sides are put in4 ,these are cut to allow -inch lap on the bottom4 ,the lead sheets are laid on the floor1 or some other smooth place1 which has previously been swept clean1 and then dressed out smooth4 ,this can best be done by using the wooden dresser to take out the large wrinkles and then smoothing with a lead flap4 ,this flap is simply a piece of sheet lead about #c inches wide and #ab inches long1 one end of which is drawn into a roll to fit the hand4 ,then mark the laps and bend them to the desired position4 ,the under side of the lap should be shaved clean1 as also the lead under the lap1 to facilitate fusion4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cf4--;,burning in the ,tee ,joint4 ,if the tank is over #ah inches high the lead must be fastened to the sides with bullseyes4 ,these are made by countersinking places in the sides of the tank4 ,the lead is then dressed into these holes and it is held in place with large headed brass screws1 which are covered by burning over the heads4 ,lead for the purpose is taken from lead strips4 ,the building up process is resorted to in covering these screw heads4 ,the lead should be arranged so as to avoid corner seams as much as possible1 as it is quite a difficult job to get the proper thickness of lead in such seams4 ,no rule can be given for cutting lead to fit a tank1 as tanks are of such a variety of sizes and shapes1 and the lead is of so many widths1 that the mechanic must study how to cut the stock without waste and have as few seams as possible4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,acid ,,chamber ,,work4 ,it is not my intention to give an elaborate description of how acids are made or to attempt to describe all of the different fittings employed in that work1 because while all plants are similar in construction no two are alike4 ,for that reason ,i will confine myself to the methods employed in handling lead in large quantities1 as the lead used in this work ranges in weight from #ah to #bd pounds to the foot and is therefore very heavy to handle4 ,these chambers are known as condensing chambers1 and their use is to catch and condense a mixture of sulphur and steam which is blown into them through a large lead pipe4 ,for that reason they are usually built out of doors1 and sometimes have a sort of temporary roof built over them4 ,consequently in repairing they are easily gotten at1 which1 by the way1 is seldom necessary4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cg4--,method of ,framing ,chamber4 ,to begin with1 the sheet lead should be purchased of such a width as to make as few seams as possible4 ,the bottom of the chamber for this lead to lie upon should be made of #b-;inch cypress plank1 the same to be tongued and grooved as for floors1 and should be planed down1 if necessary1 so that it will present a perfectly smooth surface for the lead to rest upon1 for if there are any uneven spots that is where the lead will eventually crack4 ,the frame work for the sides should also be put in place before the lead work is started1 or at least enough of it to prevent dirt and other stuff from bothering the burner4 ,one end of the chamber1 however1 should be left open1 so as to enable the workmen to bring in the lead or other material4 ,the sides should not be closed up1 but should be framed1 as shown in ,fig4 #cg1 so as to allow the lead to be securely fastened to the frame work1 which should be made of heavy stock1 depending1 of course1 upon the depth and size of chamber1 as they are in all sizes1 from #aj feet to #fj feet long and longer4 ,after seeing that this part of the work is all right1 begin to place the bottom in position4 ,this lead should be cut large enough to allow of its being turned up about #b inches all around for tight tanks4 ,the sides are not burned to the bottoms of some chambers1 but the bottom lead is turned up different hights1 depending upon how deep it is required to carry the acid in the chamber1 which is from #d to #aj inches or deeper4 ,the studding should be notched out to allow the turned up lead to face with the face of the studding1 otherwise there would be a bend in the side lead where it overlaps the sides of the bottom4 ,the flat seams in the bottom should be butted together1 so as to give a perfectly smooth surface1 which will allow all the acid to be drawn off4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ch4--;,chipping ,knife4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ci4--7;,a7 ,strap ,split and ,bent in ,alternate ,directions4 7,b7 ,bevel ,end of ,strap4 ,it is rather a difficult task for some men to cut heavy lead straight4 ,this is easily accomplished by first marking a chalk line on the lead where it is desired to cut it off2 then1 taking the hammer and chipping knife1 as shown in ,fig4 #ch1 dip the blade of the knife in water1 lay the blade square on the line and strike the back of the blade lightly with the hammer4 ,mark the sheet the whole length in this manner4 ,then go over it again and repeat the operation1 making sure that the knife is held straight4 ,the blade of the knife must be kept wet or it will stick in the lead and cause it to glance off sideways4 ,after it is cut any uneven spots can be planed off smooth with a small smoothing plane1 set so as to take off a very light chip4 ,the lead should now be placed in position and dressed smoothly by using a piece of pine1 or other soft board1 as a dresser4 ,this must be laid on any uneven spots and then pounded down smooth with a heavy wooden mallet1 after which the seams should be shaved and burned at once2 or if the seams are short and it is desired to put in enough work one day to keep the burner busy the next1 strips of paper #f inches wide should be pasted over the seams to keep the dust out4 ,only the edges of the paper should be pasted1 so that when ready to burn all that will be necessary is to take hold of one end of the paper and strip it off1 leaving the seam clean and free from dust and paste and ready to shave and burn4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dj4--,roll of ,lead in ,position4 ,after the bottom is finished the sides must be put in1 in such a manner as to have as few seams in an upright position as possible1 as it saves considerable time to burn them when horizontal4 ,on small chambers or tanks not over #aj feet deep the carpenter should make a staging wide enough to receive two sheets of lead and as long as the tank is deep4 ,the bottom of the chamber should then be covered with boards1 so as to prevent damage to the lead4 ,the staging is then brought in and set up on horses1 and the sheets of lead are cut off and laid on the staging4 ,the seams are lapped1 shaved and burned1 after which the lead tacks or straps are cut and burned on1 to support the lead when in position4 ,there are different ways of putting on these straps4 ,for side lead ,i use strips of the lead itself about #c inches wide and long enough to lap well onto the studding4 ,my way is to split this strip about inch deep and bend the ends in alternate directions4 ,the edges are then cut off1 as shown at ,a1 ,fig4 #ci1 after which they are burned in place4 ,these straps should be spaced not more than #ae inches apart1 and should be placed in such a manner as to come on the upper side of the studding4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #da4--;,clamp and ,method of ,applying4 ,another method of putting on these tacks1 and one which is most commonly practiced1 is to trim the end of the strip of lead as shown at ,b1 ,fig4 #ci4 ,the strip is laid flat on the lead sheet1 with the bevel end down1 and is then burned onto the sheet in that position1 after which it is bent over the studding and nailed4 ,the exponents of this method claim that a better job is done in that manner1 as there is always a lifting pull on the strap4 ,i claim for the first method that there is more strength in the lead seam1 and that as the edge of the studding comes directly under the strap it acts as a sort of shelf for the strap and thereby becomes a strong brace4 ,but it is probably only a matter of habit1 as they hold all right either way4 ,now1 after having the seams burned and the straps in place1 the lead must be put in position4 ,this can be accomplished by any arrangement of block and tackles1 but if the chamber be very large it will be found to be a saving of time and labor to rig up a derrick4 ,this is not such an expensive thing to do1 as a carpenter is always on hand and most likely all the material needed is already on the ground4 ,this derrick should be constructed with a swinging boom1 so that it can be raised1 lowered or swung into any desired position4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #db4--,showing ,staging in ,position4 ,now to raise the side lead into position3 ,the derrick is hooked onto the hook or rope that is on the upper end of the staging4 ,it can then be easily raised in position4 ,if the tank be very deep1 or if it should be too narrow to follow this method1 the sheet lead should be rolled up on a piece of #b1 #c or #d inch iron pipe1 depending upon the weight of the lead4 ,this pipe should be long enough to project at least #f inches from both ends of the roll4 ,two timbers1 long enough to cross the frame work1 should be obtained4 ,about #ah inches from one end of each timber a notch should be cut to prevent the pipe from rolling4 ,these timbers must now be placed across the frame work just over the place that is intended for the lead4 ,the whole roll can now be raised with the derrick and the ends of the pipe placed in the notches4 ,the lead can then be pulled down1 similar to pulling down a window shade1 after which the tacks can be burned on in place4 ,this is shown at a1 ,fig4 #dj4 ,or if there be room enough the piece of lead can be cut from the roll1 dressed smooth and have the tacks burned on while on the floor4 ,the upper end of the lead can then be rolled over and nailed to a piece of timber #b #f inches or heavier1 and the derrick hooked onto this and raised in position4 ,this is the easiest method where there is room to do it4 ,these are a few of the methods used1 but there are numerous other ways4 ,to place the top lead in position requires a staging1 which can be built as follows3 ,enough hooks should be made to properly support the staging1 shown at ,a1 ,fig4 #da4 ,two timbers should be laid across the top of the chamber1 far enough apart to allow two strips of lead to be placed in position at once4 ,the hooks are now hooked over these timbers1 while two pieces of #c #c or #d #d are placed in the other end of the hook4 ,planks are now laid over these timbers and the screws set up until the tops of the planks come just level with the top of the lead--not higher1 or else they will prevent the joist from being placed in position4 ,the lead can now be cut off on the ground and hoisted up to the top1 where it becomes an easy matter to place it in position4 ,the lead tacks can now also be cut and burned on4 ,they should be cut sufficiently long to allow them to lap over the top of the joist1 as shown at a1 ,fig4 #db1 where they should be nailed with large headed nails4 ,it will be noticed that the tacks are doubled up on the top lead and that they are not set opposite each other4 ,the joist can now be set and the tacks nailed on1 after which ropes can be tied onto the projecting ends of the #d #d timbers and the whole staging be lowered to the floor at once4 ,this operation can be repeated until the whole top is on4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dc4--,lead ,headed ,nail4 ,it will be necessary to leave small holes between the lead seams at intervals for the hooks to pass through4 ,however1 these can be burned over at any time1 and where the ends of the top should overlap the end of the chamber the lead can be left turned up until the staging is removed1 after which it can be turned over and burned4 ,the hooks are made of round iron and have a long thread cut on one end1 so as to allow for adjustment4 ,the details are shown in ,fig4 #da4 ,there are also numerous fittings used in connection with these condensing chambers1 but they are all easily made and are too simple to take up space here in explanation4 ,should it be necessary to use nails for any purpose on the inside of the chamber1 the heads should be dipped into a pot of melted lead that has not quite set until the adhering ball of lead is about inch in diameter1 as shown in ,fig4 #dc4 ,these nails can be driven in place and the lead burned to the sheet lead1 which will prevent corrosion4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,special ,,hydrogen ,,apparatus ,,and ,,burner4 ,the articles on the universal method of lead burning having been completed1 ,i desire to call attention to a new method and a new generator recently patented and put on the market by the ,kirkwood ,herr ,hydrogen ,machine ,company1 #cabi ,south ,state street1 ,chicago1 ,ill4 ,it is called the ,kirkwood generator and a general view of it is given in ,fig4 #dd4 ,this generator is a radical departure from the old style generator1 as used for the purpose of lead burning1 inasmuch as it dispenses with the air blast and consequently with the mixing fork and tubes4 ,the air required to reduce the hydrogen gas to a working condition is obtained by absorbing the air at the mouth of the burner4 ,the new generator differs also in the amount of pressure used on the gas4 ,with the old style generator1 previously described1 a pressure of #a to #b pounds is used1 whereas the ,kirkwood generator is used under a pressure varying from #h to #cj pounds4 ,at the higher pressure the maker claims the best results are obtained4 ,the generator is made in a size that enables the operator to take it to a job on a street car or train1 and that while containing the full charge of acid and zinc1 as it weighs when charged about #ej pounds4 ,this is a very important advantage over the old style machine4 ,construction of the ,generator4 ,the generator is constructed1 so to speak1 just the reverse of the old style generator1 inasmuch as the lower chamber contains the charge of acid1 while the zinc is placed in the upper chamber4 ,the generator shown in the sectional view1 ,fig4 #de1 is cylindrical in shape1 #i inches in diameter and #cj inches high4 ,a horizontal partition1 to which is burned a pipe long enough to reach to a point about #a inch above the bottom of the acid chamber1 is burned into the cylinder at a point a little above the middle of the cylinder1 making the acid chamber larger than the gas chamber4 ,this arrangement allows the back pressure of gas to force the acid down into the acid chamber1 compressing the air in the acid chamber without permitting any gas to find its way into the acid chamber and thus preventing a waste of gas4 ,in this horizontal partition and over the pendent pipe a number of -inch holes are drilled or punched4 ,this enables the acid to pass freely into the gas chamber1 and prevents any small particles of zinc from falling into the acid chamber1 which would generate gas in the chamber4 ,connected to the top of this acid chamber is a small pipe which runs up through the gas chamber and terminates above it1 as shown4 ,this pipe has an air inlet valve1 or small hose end gas cock1 connected into the side of the pipe1 to which the hose from the force pump is attached when supplying air to the acid chamber to force from the acid chamber to the gas chamber in order to start the generation of gas4 ,a safety or blow off valve is also attached to this pipe at the top1 and is set to an ordinary working pressure of #ae pounds1 or to any pressure desired4 ,if gas is being generated faster than is required it gets up a pressure in excess of #ae pounds4 ,then the safety valve opens and allows the air in the acid chamber to escape until the gas goes down to the desired pressure again4 ,this obviously allows a portion of the acid to return to the acid chamber1 and later1 as the acid becomes weaker1 the air in this chamber will have to be renewed by the admission of a little more air4 ,illustration ,fig4 #dd4--;,general ,view4 ,fig4 #de4--,sectional ,view4 ,the ,kirkwood ,lead ,burning ,machine4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #df4--,the ,kirkwood ,lead ,burner4 ,a large charging screw is placed directly in the top of the gas chamber4 ,into this is screwed a tee and short nipple1 or it may be a special fitting made for that purpose4 ,on this tee or special fitting a pressure gauge is screwed1 and a float valve is attached on the branch4 ,into the gas chamber or as close to the partition as possible an angle valve is placed4 ,to ,operate4 ,to charge the apparatus the safety valve is removed and the amount of the charge of acidulated water having been previously ascertained1 the charge is poured into the acid chamber through the air pipe4 ,the charge of spelter or zinc is placed in the gas chamber through the charging screw on top of the gas chamber4 ,the pump is now attached to the air inlet cock with a short hose1 and a few strokes of the pump will force the acid up into the gas chamber until the zinc is completely submerged4 ,the generation of gas will begin at once4 ,the cock on the burner is then closed until the necessary working pressure is obtained1 when it is ready for use4 ,the pressure of gas can be regulated by setting the safety valve to blow off at a greater or less pressure1 as desired4 ,the use of the float valve is to prevent acid from being forced out of the gas chamber and into the tube4 ,if this happens1 the valve floats up and instantly closes the outlet1 in which condition the valve remains until sufficient gas is generated to force the acid back into the acid chamber4 ,when first charging the machine1 acid should be forced up into the gas chamber until this valve closes1 as that will force all of the air contained in the gas chamber out through the tube1 leaving only pure gas in the generator4 ,when the acid is spent it is easily removed from the generator by attaching the pump to the air inlet cock and forcing the acid up into the gas chamber4 ,the angle valve is then opened1 when the spent acid can be drawn off into a pail or other receptacle4 ,this will not drain the acid chamber absolutely dry1 but practically so4 ,when the operator ceases work1 as for dinner or for any purpose1 all that is necessary is to open the air inlet cock and detach the hose from the gas outlet4 ,the acid will return by gravity to the acid chamber when generation ceases4 ,when the operator is ready to resume work a few strokes of the pump will start generation again4 ,the ,burner4 ,the burner1 shown in ,fig4 #df1 which is the most important part of the apparatus1 is also constructed on a principle not heretofore used on a lead burning apparatus4 ,it consists of a small tube1 to one end of which is screwed a small cock1 similar to a pet cock4 ,to the other end1 at a convenient angle1 is brazed the burner proper4 ,this consists of a needle point valve4 ,the needle point1 being about inch long1 is arranged so that the point can pass through the gas outlet about #a-af inch4 ,this seems to spread the flame in such a manner that it absorbs sufficient air to reduce the flame4 ,it can be regulated by drawing the needle in or out1 as the work requires4 ,there is also a tube arranged to act as a by-pass or subflame4 ,by opening the valve on this by-pass a pilot or subflame is maintained1 which does away with the annoyance of having the flame pop out or become extinguished1 as it is instantly ignited again by the subflame4 ,in operating1 the flame is held at such a distance from the work as experience will teach to be proper1 or until the lead starts to melt4 ,it should fuse with that well-known and instantly recognized bright appearance which indicates the nonoxidizing flame4 ,any one who is used to handling the blow pipe can easily familiarize himself with this blow pipe4 ,the maker claims that #b quarts of vitriol will serve to operate the apparatus for a day of #h hours on lead as heavy as #ab-pound4 ,i have no doubt that it will do even more than the makers claim for it4 ,the apparatus is made in three sizes1 adapted for different classes of work4 ,after the experience ,i have had with it1 ,i feel sure that any beginner can use this apparatus safely if he uses ordinary judgment and care in handling a gas apparatus that needs common sense treatment4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,soft ,,soldering ,,with ,,the ,,mouth ,,blow ,,pipe4 ,the common blow pipe is a simple little tool that is used in connection with an alcohol torch for soldering the finest and most delicate pieces of jewelry1 and constitutes the sole method of soldering used by ,britannia workers and jewelers1 and the fact that such a varied assortment of articles are soldered by the blow pipe process leads one to surmise that it can be used to advantage on coarser work4 ,though it is a familiar tool to gas fitters1 plumbers as a rule are ignorant of its use1 and it is hard work to find one who ever saw a blow pipe used on lead work4 ,it is an easy matter to become proficient in its use1 and the trick of keeping up a steady blast1 and breathing regularly at the same time1 is soon learned1 and1 when once acquired1 stays with you always4 ,this trick consists of making a bellows of your cheeks and using your tongue as a valve to close the entrance to the throat1 leaving the passage from the nostrils to the lungs clear for breathing purposes4 ,the only things necessary to purchase for practice are a common bent blow pipe1 which can be had for about #ae cents1 and a common candle4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dg4--,position of ,candle and ,blow ,pipe4 ,to operate3 ,the candle should be lighted1 and when it burns well and freely the tip of the blow pipe should be brought close to the flame and slightly above the wick1 a1 ,fig4 #de4 ,then blow lightly through the blow pipe1 and a pointed clear blue flame from #a to #b inches long1 which will burn paper or char wood at a distance of #f or #h inches from the flame1 will be the result4 ,the flame is hottest and best when it shows a perfect cone-shaped blaze1 and is obtained by a very moderate blast4 ,the variation of the blaze can be noted by commencing to blow very lightly and increasing the pressure gradually4 ,the flame will then show all stages from a smoky flame to a long blaze that cannot be concentrated on any small surface4 ,the little sharp tip is where the hydrogen burns1 and is the hottest part of the flame1 being the part that is used for soldering4 ,now1 having noted these peculiarities1 and knowing the perfect flame by sight1 we will proceed to acquire the steady blast4 ,the blow pipe should be held between the lips1 which will form a tight packing around it1 and must not come in contact with the teeth4 ,the cheeks are then inflated1 which will have a tendency to throw the tongue back to the throat and prevent the air in the mouth from blowing out through the nose4 ,now1 by contracting the cheeks1 and throwing the tongue slowly forward1 the air will be forced through the blow pipe4 ,this action is assisted when exhaling air by the pressure of the lungs1 but when inhaling air the muscular contraction of the cheeks is depended upon entirely for the blast4 ,the ability to keep up a steady blast is merely a trick1 or knack1 and is learned with a few hours' practice2 when learned1 the length of time that the blast can be kept up depends solely upon the strength of the muscles of the cheeks of the operator4 ,if these did not tire1 the blast could be kept up for an indefinite time4 ,having learned to keep up the steady blast and get a perfect flame1 the beginner will want to practice soldering4 ,the blow pipe method of soldering has for its range of work everything that can be soldered1 from ,britannia metal to platinum1 but the only metals that are used by the plumbers are tin and lead and their several compositions1 so we will confine ourselves to the study of those metals4 ,kinds of ,solder ,used4 ,in soldering any metal the solder should be so proportioned that it will melt many degrees lower in temperature than the metal to be soldered4 ,otherwise it would be quite probable that holes would be burned in the work before the solder would melt4 ,there are exceptions to this rule1 however2 for example1 lead burning1 where one piece of lead is fused to another4 ,as also with ,britannia metal1 it can be1 and is1 soldered with its own material1 but it would be likely to have holes burned in it occasionally1 and to avoid this a solder mixed for that purpose should be prepared4 ,two receipts are given here for quick melting solders that are suitable for this work4 ,the first is preferred1 but the second will answer the purpose4 ,solder ,no4 #a3 ,procure #d ounces of pure lead1 #d ounces of pure tin1 and #b ounces of bismuth4 ,the lead should be melted first and thoroughly stirred and cleaned4 ,it should then be allowed to cool to the melting temperature of the tin1 which should then be added4 ,lastly add the bismuth4 ,the whole should then be stirred and poured into a suitable mold into very thin strips1 about the size of a ,no4 #h wire1 making strips of solder that can be rolled up and carried in the pocket4 ,solder ,no4 #b3 ,this solder is composed of two parts of tin and one part of lead4 ,these should be mixed as described above4 ,to have success in making solders several points must be observed4 ,the metal melting at the highest temperature should be melted first1 which must then be allowed to drop to the melting temperature of the next metal to be added1 and when ready to pour into molds the mixture must be stirred1 as the specific gravity of the several metals differs considerably1 and unless constant stirring is resorted to the mixture will partially separate upon cooling1 and the result is an irregular solder that will not do the work4 ,practicing the ,blowing4 ,now1 for practice1 take two pieces of -inch lead tubing and prepare them as for a cup joint1 by spreading one end with the bending iron and rasping the other end to fit the cup1 as shown in a1 ,fig4 #cc4 ,support them as you best can in an upright position4 ,flux the joint with rosin4 ,then take the solder in the left hand1 set the lighted candle at the right hight and distance from the joint1 as shown at ,b1 ,fig4 #dg1 which leaves the right hand free to manage the blow pipe4 ,then heat the joint with the flame1 and1 as it gets hot1 touch the joint with the solder1 and when it reaches the melting temperature of the solder a drop of it will detach itself and flow clear around the joint1 making a smooth1 clean joint that is stronger than the pipe itself4 ,joints made in this manner present a handsome and workmanlike appearance to the mechanical eye4 ,practice diligently on the lead pipe until you have become so proficient that you can flow the solder all through the joint without withdrawing the flame4 ,then procure some -inch block tin pipe1 and1 when that can be soldered perfectly1 the beginner can consider himself sufficiently proficient to practice on flat seams on ,britannia metal4 ,soldering ,britannia ,metal4 ,for working ,britannia metal the candle cannot be used1 as the dripping grease will cover the work and seriously interfere with the flowing solder4 ,the beginner must provide himself with an alcohol or kerosene torch4 ,a good form of torch1 manufactured and sold for electricians' use1 is shown in ,fig4 #dh4 ,the alcohol gives a clean flame1 but by comparison is somewhat expensive4 ,the kerosene gives a flame that can be concentrated on a small surface with fully as much heat1 and if care is taken to allow only the blue flame to touch the work1 it is fully as clean and cheaper4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dh4--;,alcohol or ,kerosene ,torch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #di4--;,a ,specially ,constructed ,torch4 ,the burning kerosene torch gives off a dirty smell and smoke1 which makes it disagreeable to handle1 but this is a case of take your choice1 and it is left to the beginner to use either1 as they will both do the work satisfactorily4 ,it is also necessary1 in doing this work1 to have the blow pipe attached to the torch and connected to the mouth with a piece of very small rubber tube4 ,this will leave one hand free to apply the flux and hold the solder4 ,the flame can also be quickly placed in any position or directed to any portion of the work without allowing the work to cool4 ,the alcohol torch for this work should be so constructed that it can be held in a horizontal or inverted position without spilling the contents of the torch4 ,the handiest1 as also the cheapest1 torch to make is the one shown in ,fig4 #di4 ,it consists of a can #c inches high made in the shape of a frustum of a scalene cone4 ,the tube ,b should be inch in diameter1 and must run parallel with the flaring side and extend half way to the bottom of the can1 as e4 ,then1 when the torch is tipped to solder horizontal work1 the alcohol will flow into the space a1 leaving the alcohol to supply the wick to be drawn up by capillary attraction4 ,this tube is made of -inch brass tubing1 bent to form an angle with the can1 as shown4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ej4--,using the ,torch on a ,flat ,seam4 ,a screw and cap with a seat1 such as is used on brass lamps1 is obtained1 and a hole punched in the cap c just large enough to receive the tube ,b4 ,the screw is soldered into the opening of the can at ,d4 ,the wick1 which is formed of many strands of candle wicking rolled tightly together1 is pulled through the tube by means of a wire hook1 and left sufficiently long to lie in the space a1 so that it will always lie in the alcohol4 ,this tube is placed through the hole at ,d1 and allowed to project about inch outside of the can4 ,wicking is then wound around the tube and forced into the socket formed in the screw ,d4 ,the cap is then slipped over the tube at c1 and screwed down tight on the wicking1 which will make a tight joint at ,d1 and will hold the tube firmly in place4 ,when necessary to fill the torch the tube can easily be removed and the torch filled4 ,a separate filling screw can be used if desired4 ,even with this form of torch an excess of alcohol will occasionally get into the wick when used in a horizontal position and increase the size of the blaze4 ,but when this happens the torch can be brought to an upright position for a moment1 which will drain the wick and bring the blaze to its proper size4 ,the blow pipe for this torch is made from a piece of very small copper or brass tubing4 ,the end intended for the tip should be bent to the angle required1 as shown at f1 ,fig4 #di4 ,it should be fastened to the torch by means of a clamp1 g1 soldered to the flaring side of the torch4 ,this clamp should be so arranged that the blow pipe can be adjusted to the requirements of the blaze4 ,this clamp consists of a short piece of brass4 ,a hole is drilled in one end to allow the blow pipe to pass through1 while the other end is filed to fit the bevel of the can to which it is soldered4 ,the blow pipe can be held in position with a wedge1 or a hole can be drilled and tapped and a small screw inserted which will hold the blow pipe firmly in place4 ,the tip of the blow pipe should not be larger than #a-cb inch4 ,the rubber tube can then be attached to the projecting end of the blow pipe at h1 which is then ready for use4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ea4--;,cutting ,metal for a ,butler's ,pantry ,sink4 ,owing to the ,britannia metal melting at such a low temperature1 it would be well for the beginner to practice on pieces of #b-pound sheet lead4 ,seams on this class of work are made by butting the edges of the metal1 as these seams are not supposed to show4 ,the seams are prepared by truing the edges and then beveling the edges with the shave hook so that when brought together a ,v-shaped groove is formed4 ,this is then fluxed with a small amount of powdered rosin4 ,a drop of the quick melting solder is then melted from the strip and allowed to drop on the seam4 ,the flame is then applied to the sheets1 and as the solder flows the flame must be kept slightly in advance of it1 ,fig4 #ej4 ,care must be taken to heat the sheets only enough to cause the solder to flow4 ,otherwise the seam will not appear full4 ,the beginner should experience no trouble in soldering these lead seams1 and when perfect control of the torch and flame is had1 pieces of ,britannia metal should be substituted for the lead4 ,these seams are prepared and fluxed just as for lead4 ,britannia metal is fast becoming the favorite lining for splash and drip boards on butler's pantry sinks1 as also for lining the work benches in saloons4 ,it is soft enough to allow the most delicate china to be laid on it without danger of chipping1 and is also very easy to keep clean4 ,it takes a high polish and always looks well4 ,the method of cutting the metal for a butler's pantry sink is shown in ,fig4 #ea1 the dotted lines showing the actual dimensions of the article to be covered1 while the full lines show the laps required to cover the edges of the board4 ,this metal is harder than lead1 and will not dress smooth with the dresser4 ,any uneven spots must be pressed down with a hot flatiron4 ,the method of turning the edges is shown at a4 ,the bending iron is heated and rubbed over the edge1 gradually turning the edges until they are at their proper position4 ,the iron must be constantly heated to insure the best results1 and if properly done no wrinkles will appear4 ,a lined work bench is also shown in ,fig4 #eb1 which shows the method of putting in the bar washer4 ,the sheet metal must be cut and fitted to its place and all the seams possible should be soldered before placing the metal in position4 ,the edges should be tacked on the under side of the work1 when practicable1 with copper tacks4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eb4--;,a ,lined ,work ,bench1 with ,bar ,washer4 ,sooner or later the blow pipe solderer will be called upon to make repairs on ,britannia metal1 and will be surprised to find that it will be impossible to solder the metal1 owing to the excess of moisture under it4 ,the best way to overcome this1 which is practically the only trouble that occurs1 is to cut out a small square patch4 ,the edge can be cleaned and a patch of new metal carefully fitted into the hole4 ,when ready to begin soldering1 a piece of blotting paper should be inserted between the patch and board4 ,this paper will absorb all the moisture and allow the seam to be neatly soldered4 ,the man who makes himself familiar with the blow pipe and torch soon finds himself in a different class from the ordinary everyday mechanic1 and if mechanical ability be accompanied with sobriety and stability1 the possessor will always command a good steady income4 ,,the ,,end4 ,,index4 ,acid ,chamber1 ,framing1 #aji ,acid ,chamber ,work1 #ajh ,acid1 ,how ,applied1 #ff ,acids1 #bj ,action of ,generator1 #ff ,addition of ,acid1 #ff ,air and ,gas1 ,regulating ,volume and ,pressure1 #gd ,air ,holder1 #dj ,air ,pressure1 #eh ,alcohol ,torch and ,blow ,pipe1 #acc ,apparatus for ,lead ,burning1 #ae ,arsenic1 ,poisonous ,flame1 #fi ,arsenic ,released from ,acid on ,zinc1 #fi ,bellows ,air ,holder1 #di ,blow ,pipe1 #ej1 #fb ,blow ,pipe1 ,kirkwood1 #abb ,blow ,pipe1 ,mouth1 #abg ,blow ,pipe ,practice with ,candle1 #abh ,blow ,pipe1 ,walmsley ,compound1 #ej ,blue ,vitriol or ,copperas1 #ef ,bottom for ,generator1 #ce ,britannia ,metal for ,repairing1 #adj ,britannia ,metal ,soft ,soldering1 #acb ,britannia ,metal ,work1 #ad1 #ca1 #cb ,britannia ,metal ,work with ,torch and ,blow ,pipe1 #acb ,burner1 ,kirkwood ,lead1 #aai ,burner ,tips1 #fb ,burns and ,their ,treatment1 #ag ,candle ,blow ,pipe ,practice1 #abh ,care of ,apparatus1 #fh ,cautions1 #af ,charging and ,cleaning ,screws1 #bf ,charging ,generator1 #fd ,chemical ,tanks1 ,how ,lined1 #aje ,chipping ,knife for ,lead1 #aaj ,cleaning ,generator1 #fg ,colors of ,flame1 #gf ,connecting ,apparatus1 #ee ,cup1 ,scrubbing1 #ef1 #fh ,cup1 ,scrubbing1 ,how ,made1 #gj ,cutting ,heavy ,lead ,straight1 #aaj ,explosions1 ,what to ,do ,when ,they ,occur1 #ag ,fire ,trap1 #ef1 #fh ,flame ,management1 #gc ,flame ,under ,different ,pressures1 #gd ,flat ,butt ,seam1 #hc ,framing ,acid ,chamber1 #aji ,gas from ,gasoline1 ,how ,generated1 #ci1 #ea ,gas ,pressure1 #eh ,gasometer ,air ,holder1 #df ,generator1 ,charging1 #fd ,generator1 ,cleaning1 #fg ,generator ,construction1 #bf ,generator ,frame1 #cj ,generator ,materials1 #cj ,generator ,pipe1 ,how ,fitted1 #cg ,generator ,seams1 ,how ,burned1 #cf ,horizontal ,butt ,seam1 #hh ,horizontal ,lap ,seam1 #ic ,hydrogen and ,air1 ,effect of ,mixing1 #bd ,hydrogen ,apparatus1 ,special1 #aai ,hydrogen from ,water1 ,how ,made1 #be ,hydrogen ,gas and ,its ,properties1 #ah ,hydrogen ,gas1 ,how ,made1 #bj ,hydrogen ,proved ,lighter ,than ,air1 #bc ,illuminating ,gas ,burning1 #ea ,inverted ,butt ,seam1 #ij ,inverted ,corner ,seam1 #ih ,inverted ,lap ,seam1 #ib ,joint for ,through ,burning1 #ajb ,kirkwood ,blow ,pipe1 #abb ,kirkwood ,lead ,burner1 #aai ,knife for ,cutting ,lead1 #aaj ,lap ,seam1 #hb ,lead ,burning ,explained1 #aj ,lead ,headed ,nail1 #aag ,lead ,sheets for ,tank1 #aje ,lining ,chemical ,tanks1 #aje ,mixing ,fork1 #ee1 #eg1 #ei ,mouth ,blow ,pipe1 #abg ,nail1 ,lead ,headed1 #aag ,pipe ,seams1 #ajj ,pressure for ,working ,gas and ,air1 #eh ,repairing with ,britannia ,metal1 #adj ,round ,pipe ,butt ,seam1 #ajj ,round ,pipe ,lap ,seam1 #ajc ,round ,pipe1 ,tee ,joint1 #ajd ,scrubbing ,cup1 #ef1 #fh ,scrubbing ,cup1 ,how ,made1 #gj ,seam1 ,butt1 on ,round ,pipe1 #ajj ,seam1 ,flat ,butt1 #hc ,seam1 ,horizontal ,butt1 #hh ,seam1 ,horizontal ,lap1 #ic ,seam1 ,inverted ,butt1 #ij ,seam1 ,inverted ,corner1 #ih ,seam1 ,inverted ,lap1 #ib ,seam1 ,lap1 #hb ,seam1 ,lap1 on ,round ,pipe1 #ajc ,seam1 ,through1 on ,round ,pipe1 #aja ,seam1 ,upright ,lap1 #ie ,seam1 ,upright ,butt1 #hf ,seams1 ,different ,kinds of1 #hj ,seams1 ,how ,prepared1 #hj ,seams1 ,pipe1 #ajj ,sink1 ,bar and ,washer1 #ach ,sink1 ,butlers' ,pantry1 #acg ,soft ,solder1 #ac1 #acj ,soft ,solder ,formul1 #aca ,solder1 ,soft1 #ac1 #acj ,special ,hydrogen ,apparatus1 #aai ,staging for ,acid ,tank1 #aae ,straps for ,tank ,lining1 #aaa ,tanks1 ,how ,made1 #ab ,tee ,joint on ,round ,pipe1 #ajd ,test for ,hydrogen1 #ba ,testing ,apparatus1 #ef ,through ,burning1 ,joint1 #ajb ,through ,seam on ,round ,pipe1 #aja ,tips1 ,burner1 #fb ,tips1 ,sizes of1 #gh ,torch1 ,alcohol and ,blow ,pipe1 #acc ,trap1 ,fire1 #ef1 #fh ,upright ,butt ,seam1 #hf ,upright ,lap ,seam1 #ie ,vitriol1 #ef ,vitriol ,action on ,zinc1 #fi ,walmsley ,compound ,blow ,pipe1 #ej ,water ,pressure ,air ,holder1 #db ,,transcriber',s ,,notes #a4 ,silently corrected typographical errors4 #b4 ,retained anachronistic and non-standard spellings as printed4 #c4 ,enclosed italics font in underscores4