,transcrib]'s ,notes3 ,inconsi/5cies 9 spell+ 7= example fogliami vs4 foliami7 h g5]ally be5 pres]v$ z orig9ally pr9t$4 ,all corrections made to ! text are li/$ at ! end ( ?is ebook4 ,,sev5 ,,c5turies ,,( ,,lace ,,by ,,mrs4 ,,john ,,hung]=d ,,poll5 ,,) ,a ,,preface ,,by ,,alan ,,cole1 ,c4,b4 ,,& #abj ,,full-,,page ,,illu/rations ,,new ,,york3 ,,! ,,macmillan ,,company ,,london3 ,,william ,,he9emann ,,mcmviii ,pr9t$ 9 ,engl& ,,preface ,,de> ,,mrs4 ,,poll51--,hav+ exam9$ ! admirable photographs to y\r lace collection1 & ! lett]press :i* y h writt5 to accompany !m1 ) a view to meet y\r wi% t ,i %\ld make revisions & su*like :]e ,i ?\ght necess>y1 please all[ me 9 ! fir/ place to ?ank y = hav+ entru/$ me ) :at has be5 a v cong5ial "w1 & to say t ,i really h b few sugge/ions to (f]4 ,su* z !y are1 !y am\nt to little m ?an amplify+1 & slightly modify+ "h & !re1 :at y h writt54 ,y\r gloss>y ( t]ms us$ 9 describ+ lace & cognate "w is v full1 & conta9s sev]al ,italian t]ms :i* /rike me z be+ unque/ionably ( te*nical value 9 supplem5t+ in=mation put =w>d 9 ! be/ ,engli% works on lace-mak+4 ,^u ! introductory "p ( y\r attractive lett]press y also ask$ me to freely express an op9ion1 giv+ x su* a %ape z to make x suitable = use z a preface to y\r "w4 ,i n[ d ?is ) consid]able diffid5ce1 not)/&+ t dur+ a good _m ye>s ,i h _h a l>ge numb] ( specim5s ( lace be=e me1 includ+ probably "s ( ! f9e/ ev] made4 ,y _h ! initial advantage ( inh]it+ lace ( inconte/able orig9 & antiquity1 & also ( f9d+ specim5s 9 diff]5t c\ntries :]e facts & traditions ( _! manufacture c\ld be asc]ta9$ on ! spot4 ,= s long a p]iod z t f1 say1 ! sixte5? to ! eighte5? c5turies1 m5 d]iv$ z mu* satisfaction 9 acquir+ & we>+ laces z wom5 !n did4 ,b autres temps1 autres murs1 & closely z our sex may at "o "t h run y\rs 9 ! appreciation ( lace1 y\rs has out/ripp$ & beat5 ours4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 is z x %\ld be1 = skill 9 all =ms ( ne$lework & da9ty ?read-"w has practically be5 ! monopoly ( wom5 f ! "t ( ,p5elope =w>ds1 not)/&+ ! /rict obs]vance ( ! rule laid d[n by ,/4 ,b5$ict t ! memb]s ( 8 ,ord] %\ld be exp]t 9 ! use ( bo? p5 & ne$le 7z !y 7 = c5turies72 or ! records ( ! sev5te5? c5tury1 t boys att5d$ lace-mak+ s*ools 9 ,devon%ire1 & t ,engli% tailors & lab\r+ m5 (t5 made good saleable lace 9 _! leisure "t dur+ ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,) y\r sugge/ion t _m sorts ( :ite ?read ornam5tal "w1 f :i* a developm5t ( ne$le-made & bobb9-made laces c be trac$1 are ( e>li] date ?an ! sixte5? c5tury1 ,i entirely agree2 & 9 corroboration ( ?is1 v>i\s public collections1 )9 comp>atively rec5t times1 h secur$ f disus$ anci5t ,coptic cemet]ies 9 ,egypt fragm5ts ( elaborate nett+s & ,s>ac5ic examples ( t k9d ( "w :i* y id5tify ) ! ,italian ,sfilatura & punto a /uora4 ,?is la/-nam$ /it* is virtually ! /it* us$ 9 tape/ry-mak+1 & x (t5 appe>s on a small scale 9 intricate1 drawn & :ipp$ ?read ,p]sian l95 embroid]y1 ! practice ( :i* is assur$ly ( great age4 ,^! me?ods ( /it*+ = ornam5tal purposes appe> to h be5 well kn[n 9 c\ntries com+ at "s "t or ano!r "u ! direct influ5ce ( ,s>ac5ic embroid]]s2 b x is int]e/+ to note !y are n id5tical 9 "* ) t ( buttonhole /it*+1 :i* plays s important a "p 9 lace-mak+4 ,! ess5tial feature ( ! fabric n[ recognis$ z lace lies 9 its be+ wr\ght indep5d5tly ( any visible f\ndation su* z l95 or net2 x is ess5tially a textile ornam5tation dep5d+ ^u special design1 :i* c be r5d]$1 s f> z ne$le-po9t lace is conc]n$1 by v>iations ( ! buttonhole /it*--! punto a fe/one 9 ,italy1 & po9t n\ 9 ,france--:i* is di/9ctively a loop+1 & n a :ipp+ or weav+1 /it*2 & s f> z bobb9-made lace is conc]n$1 by twi/+ & plait+ ?reads toge!r4 ,! g5esis ( ornam5tal design = su* laces is1 ,i fancy1 pretty well e/abli%$ ?r\gh ! classification ( k9dr$ designs1 beg9n+ ) ^? involv+ simple ab/ract & geometric =ms2 ^! are gradually succe$$ by o!rs ) conv5tional & m v>i$ devices1 sugge/+ plant & animal life2 & ^! foll[$ by o!rs 9 :i* def9itely reali/ic r5d]+s ( actual ?+s are aim$ at4 ,?us1 v broadly1 we h ?ree typical gr\ps1 & ( ! fir/ y\r photographs ,nos4 #c1 #f1 #g1 ) #bi1 #cj1 & #hf1 give examples2 ( ! second gr\p !re are examples 9 photographs ,nos4 #aa1 #ab1 #af1 #ag1 c42 & ! ?ird gr\p is illu/rat$ by ,nos4 #cf & #cg1 #ij to #ic1 & #aaf4 ,! sixte5?-c5tury ,italian patt]n books are ma9ly conc]n$ ) designs = lace ( ! fir/ gr\p z di/9ct f embroid]y on l95 or net4 ,! p]iod ( ! second gr\p is e/abli%$ by ! laces "o f9ds repres5t$ 9 pa9t+s by su* pa9t]s z ,v&yck1 ,rembr&t1 ,gonzales ,coques1 ,mign>d1 & ,hyac9! ,rigaud1 :il/ ! g5]ality ( ! designs 9 ! ?ird gr\p is safely attributable to design]s employ$ t[>ds ! end ( ! sev5te5? c5tury1 & dur+ ! eighte5? by ! ,royal or ,/ate subsidis$ manufactories ( ,france1 ab\t :i* sev]al local records1 quot$ by ,mademoiselle ,despi]re 9 h] book on ! ,po9ts d',al5on1 are p>ticul>ly int]e/+4 ,laces ( r indet]m9ate design1 su* z ^? :i* we call peasant laces1 h1 z a rule1 a qua9t treatm5t ( patt]n1 ! orig9 ( :i* is1 ,i ?9k1 almo/ inv>iably to be ref]r$ to "s c>efully design$ prototype2 b ! *>m ( su* peasant laces lies *iefly 9 ! goodness ( _! texture comb9$ ) a di/ortion ( =ms1 :i* arises f ! work]s' navet 9 misund]/&+ ! p>5t design4 ,! really valuable "w 0 t ( sympa!tic & skill$ work]s1 done directly f well-design$ patt]ns4 ,n[ ! orig9 ( ne$le-po9t & bobb9-made laces is1 ,i ?9k1 ,occid5tal1 or ,european1 & n ,ori5tal2 & ! ?ree broadly indicat$ patt]n gr\ps are accompani$ by ?ree equally recognisable sorts ( texture4 ,! fir/ ( !m is comp>atively /iff & wiry2 ! second m lissom & incl9$ to tap9ess2 & ! ?ird1 /ill m lissom1 becom+ gauzy & filmy 9 quality4 ,delicate1 filmy laces1 common to ! eighte5? c5tury1 c\ld n1 !re=e1 ,i ?9k1 h be5 dreamt ( 9 ! sixte5? c5tury2 nei!r at t "t 0 !re a conception ( ! tapey1 & at times l95-l1 laces made 9 ! e>ly "p & middle ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,h5ce we seem able to rely ^u an app>5t procession ( design types1 runn+ concurr5tly ) an equally app>5t procession ( qualities ( texture4 ,by keep+ 9 m9d ^! comb9$ successions ( patt]n & texture "o is enabl$ n only to classify laces1 b also to acc\nt = lat] survivals ( old types1 z well z = ! approximate dates :5 old & new types sev]ally h aris54 ,x is evid5t t ! ,fr5* ^w d5telle1 :i* is a compreh5sive t]m = laces1 came f ! d5ts1 or too?-%ap$ bord]s & edges ( lace made soon aft] ! beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,at ! same "t1 !re _h be5 dur+ two c5turies e>li]1 a fa%ion ( jagg+ or cutt+ into po9ts or scallops ! bord]s ( clo? silk & velvet co/umes1 g[ns1 hoods1 & long sleeves4 ,b :5 ! notably increas$ use ( l95 %irts1 ) cuffs & small coll>s j %[+ beyond ! out] g>m5ts occurr$ 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 :ite & col\r$ ?read purl+s & taut fr++s or edg+s 7 made = !m1 & s came to be call$ po9ts1 d5ts & punti z ! cut bord]s ( clo? co/umes _h be54 ,! latt] fa%ion gradually obscur$ ! =m]1 & ?us ! t]ms po9t1 d5t1 & punto 7 almo/ solely appli$ to ornam5tation 9 real lace or 9 lace-l fabrics4 ,9 /ill lat] times1 z y notice1 po9t lace is g5]ally und]/ood to be ! designation ( ne$le-po9t lace1 or d5telle l'aiguille1 z di/9ct f ! d5telle au fuseau1 bobb9 or pill[-made lace4 ,i h be5 tempt$ to t\* ^u ?is matt] ( lace po9ts1 v&ykes1 & scallops because ! bord] ( ! alb1 said to h be5 worn by ,pope ,boniface ,,viii41 consi/s ( scallops ( bobb9-made ?read-"w1 & ( a type ( patt]n & texture :i* ,i %\ld say _c v well be e>li] 9 date ?an ! middle ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ! ornam5tal ?read-"w done 9 punto di treccia & punto a /uora1 :i* fills l>ge & small squ>es & rem>kable five-sid$ figures1 seems to h "s ,s>ac5ic or ,moori% "*1 & may possibly n be assignable to ! sixte5? c5tury ) ! same cog5cy ( inf]5ce z applies to ! scallops ( ,italian m]letti a piomb9i on ! bord] ( ! alb4 ,:atev] may be ! result ( fur!r inquiries conc]n+ ! tradition ( ,pope ,boniface hav+ worn ?is alb1 & !re=e e/abli%+ its date z be+ late ?irte5? c5tury1 ,i hope t y w reta9 x z an illu/ration 9 y\r book4 ,:il/ ! majority ( y\r photographs are f g5]ally well-kn[n v>ieties ( lace1 ^? f ! e>li] drawn ?read-works & d>n+ ^u diff]5t makes ( squ>e me%1 net1 or gr\nds ( radiat+1 int]twi/$ ?reads1 are p>ticul>ly int]e/+--& ! entire s]ies1 accompani$ by y\r descriptions1 =ms a mo/ valuable encyclopdia ( designs & textures to be se5 9 laces & cognate fabrics4 ,believe me to be1 ,y\rs v truly1 ,,alan ,s4 ,,cole4 ,,cont5ts ,,page ,,preface ,,by ,,mr4 ,a4 ,,cole v ,,introduction #c ,,gloss>y #i ,,ne$lepo9t ,,lace #ba ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace #dc ,,index #ee ,,li/ ,,( ,,plates ,,plate ,i4 ,! ,alb1 pres]v$ at ,assisi1 said to h be5 worn by ,/4 ,francis ,,ii4 ,! ,alb :i* is said to h be5 worn by ,pope ,boniface1 ,a4,d4 #abih ,,iii4 7#a7 ,detail ( ! ,alb ( ,pope ,boniface ,,viii4 7#b7 ,detail ( ! ,assisi ,alb ,,iv4 ,?ree ,pieces ( ,ne$lework f ,egypto-,roman or ,coptic ,tombs ( ! ,second & ,?ird ,c5turies ,v4 7#a7 ,a ,piece ( ,bobb9-made ,lace 7#b7 ,d>n$ ,"w ) ,:ite ,l95 ,?read 7#c7 ,portion ( a ,mummy ,clo? ,,vi4 ,two ,examples ( ,italian ,tela ,tirata & ,punto ,reale ,,vii4 ,an ,example ( ,e>ly ,lacis or ,sfilatura ,,viii4 ,sev5 ,enl>g$ ,/it*es us$ 9 ,lacis & ,l95 ,lace ,,ix4 ,five ,enl>g$ ,v>ieties ( ,rseaux ,x4 ,sev5 ,enl>g$ ,v>ieties ( ,rseaux ,,xi4 ,bord] ( ,lacis or d>n$ ,squ>e ,me% ,net ,punto a ,tela or ,l95-,/it* ,,xii4 ,bord] ( ,squ>e ,me% ,lacis ,,xiii4 ,two ,examples ( ,lacis ,"w ,,xiv4 ,"p ( a ,quilt ,,xv4 ,lacis ,table-,cov] ,,xvi4 ,no4 #a4 ,v&yke ,bord] ( ,lacis ,no4 #b4 ,"p ( a ,quilt ( ,squ>es ( ,lacis ,,xvii4 ,bord] ( ,lacis ) ! ,twi/$ ,me% call$ ,buratto ,,xviii4 ,two ,bord]s ( ,lacis call$ ,buratto ,,xix4 ,b& ( ,tela ,tirata or ,drawn ,"w ,,xx4 ,"p ( a ,cov] ( ,tela ,tirata or ,drawn ,"w ,,xxi4 ,b& or ,fl\nce ( ,tela ,tirata or ,drawn ,"w ,,xxii4 ,an ,infant's ,swaddl+ ,b& or ,fascia ( ,tela ,tirata ,,xxiii4 ,b& ( a ,v>iety ( ,tela ,tirata ,,xxiv4 ,l95 ,clo? ) ,bord] ,,xxv4 ,two ,b&s ,,xxvi4 ,pyx ,veil ( ,tela ,tirata1 or ,drawn ,?read ,"w ,,xxvii4 ,a ,portion ( ! ,pyx ,clo?1 to %[ bo? sides ( ! "w ,,xxviii4 ,?ree ,clo?s1 ,fr+$ ,,xxix4 ,two ,bord]s ,,xxx4 ,two ,bord]s ,,xxxi4 ,two ,examples ,,xxxii4 ,*alice ,cov] ( ,reticello & ,punto 9 ,aria ,,xxxiii4 ,a ,reticello ,patt]n work$ 9 v f9e ,punto 9 ,aria & ,punto ,avorio ,,xxxiv4 ,scallop$ ,bord] ( a ,corporal ( ,flat ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace1 call$ ,punto 9 ,aria ,,xxxv4 ,a ,clo? ) ,ins]tion & ,bord] ( ,punto 9 ,aria ,,xxxvi4 ,ne$le-,po9t ,bord] ( ,flat ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace1 call$ ,punto 9 ,aria ,,xxxvii4 ,ornam5t = ! ,neck ( an ,alb ( ,punto 9 ,aria ,,xxxviii4 ,bord] & ,edg+ ,,xxxix4 ,a ,lady's ,camisia or ,%irt ,,xl4 ,b$-,cov] ( ,cut ,l95 ,lace 7,tela ,tagliata a ,foliami & ,punto a ,fe/one7 ,,xli4 ,rabat ( ,flat ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace ,brides ,,xlii4 ,"p ( a ,dress ,trimm+ ( v f9e ,ne$le-,po9t1 call$ ,rose-,po9t ,,xliii4 ,p>ts ( a ,coll> ( ,ne$le-,po9t1 call$ ,rose-,po9t or ,po9t de ,v5ise ,,xliv4 ,/oma*] 7= a ,dress7 ( ,ne$le-,po9t1 call$ ,rose-,po9t or ,po9t de ,v5ise ,,xlv4 ,"p ( a ,fl\nce ( ,ne$le-,po9t1 call$ ,rose-,po9t or ,po9t de ,v5ise ,,xlvi4 ,"p ( a ,beautiful ,fl\nce ( ,delicate ,ne$le-,po9t ( ,rais$ or ,rose-,po9t ,lace1 kn[n z ,po9t de ,v5ise ,,xlvii4 ,portion ( ,,xlvi41 actual size ,,xlviii4 ,pat5 ,cov] ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,rais$1 or ,rose-,po9t ,lace1 v simil> 9 /yle & gracefulness to t ( ,no4 ,,xxxiii4 ,,xlix4 ,a ,portion ( ,,xlviii41 magnifi$ to %[ ! /it*es ,l4 ,?ree ,bord]s ( ,delicate ,ne$le-,po9t ,rais$1 or ,rose-,po9t ,lace ,,li4 ,deep ,fl\nce ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace ,brides ,picotes1 usually call$ ,po9t de ,france ,,lii4 ,portion ( ,,li41 enl>g$ ,,liii4 ,bord] ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,rais$ ,lace1 call$ ,spani% ,rose-,po9t ,,liv4 ,two ,specim5s ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,rais$ ,lace1 call$ ,spani% ,rose-,po9t ,,lv4 ,two ,examples ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace ,,lvi4 ,cap ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace ,rseau ,,lvii4 ,a ,bord] ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace1 ,v5etian ,po9t ,rseau ,,lviii4 ,two ,examples ( ,v5etian ,po9t ,rseau ,,lix4 ,a ,bord] ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace1 possibly ,v5etian1 ?\gh ! /yle is ,fr5* ,,lx4 ,two ,patt]ns ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace ,rseau1 call$ ,po9t ,d',al5on ,,lxi4 ,two ,bord]s ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace ,rseau1 call$ ,po9t ,d',al5on ,,lxii4 ,f\r ,bord]s ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace ,rseau1 call$ ,po9t ,d',al5on ,,lxiii4 ,cap-,bord] ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace ,rseau1 call$ ,po9t ,d',al5on ,,lxiv4 ,beautiful ,lappet ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace ,rseau1 call$ ,po9t ,d',al5on ,,lxv4 ,?ree ,patt]ns ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace ,rseau1 call$ ,po9t ,d',al5on ,,lxvi4 ,two ,patt]ns ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace ,rseau1 call$ ,po9t ,d',al5on ,,lxvii4 ,cape ( ,ne$le-,po9t call$ ,po9t ,d',al5on ,,lxviii4 ,two ,bord]s ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace ,,lxix4 ,lappet ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace1 call$ ,po9t ,d',arg5tan ,,lxx4 ,?ree ,specim5s ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace ,,lxxi4 ,lappet ( ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace ,,lxxii4 ,"p ( a ,sc>f ,,lxxiii4 ,fl\nce ( ,ma*9e-made ,net ) ,patt]n d>n$ on x ,,lxxiv4 ,"p ( ,full-,size ,cotta ( ,net ) ,l>ge ,fl[] ,patt]n d>n$ 9 ,silk into x ,,lxxv4 ,a ,specim5 ( ! ,embroid]$ ,musl9 ,"w call$ ,tnd] ,lace ,,lxxvi4 ,two ,specim5s ( ! ,embroid]$ ,musl9 ,"w call$ ,tnd] ,lace ,,lxxvii4 ,?ree ,patt]ns ( ,musl9 ,lace ,,lxxviii4 ,f\r ,patt]ns ( ,dut* ,l95 ,lace ,,lxxix4 7#a7 ,manila ,lace 7#b & #c7 ,lace ,work$ 9 ,ne$le-,po9t ,,lxxx4 7#a7 ,infant's ,baptism ,cap 7#b7 ,a ,cap ,bord] ,,lxxxi4 ,?ree ,specim5s ( ,e>ly ,iri% ,ne$le-,po9t ,lace ,,lxxxii4 ,specim5 ( ,knott$ & ,twi/$ ,/r+ or ,?read ,"w1 call$ ,macram ,,lxxxiii4 ,fl\nce ,,lxxxiv4 ,two ,patt]ns ( ,bobb9-made ,lace ,,lxxxv4 ,f\r ,bobb9-made ,laces 7r$uc$ 9 size7 ,,lxxxvi4 ,f\r ,bobb9-made ,laces 7r$uc$ 9 size7 ,,lxxxvii4 ,bobb9-made ,lace ,,lxxxviii4 ,five ,bobb9-made ,laces ,,lxxxix4 ,six ,specim5s ( ,lace made be=e #ahej ,,xc4 ,two ,bord]s ( ,bobb9-made ,lace ,brides ,,xci4 ,fl\nce ( ,bobb9-made ,lace ,brides1 9 :i* ! ,toil is well develop$ ,,xcii4 ,fl\nce ( ,bobb9-made ,lace ,,xciii4 ,lace z ,,xcii41 actual size ,,xciv4 ,fl\nce ( ,bobb9-made ,lace ,,xcv4 ,"p ( a ,fl\nce = an ,alb1 ( ,bobb9-made ,lace ,rseau ,,xcvi4 ,fl\nce = an ,alb ( ,bobb9-made ,lace ,rseau ,,xcvii4 ,two ,bord]s ( ,bobb9-made ,lace ,,xcviii4 ,?ree ,bord]s ( ,bobb9-made ,edg+ ,,xcix4 ,bobb9-made ,lace ,rseau ,c4 ,cap ( ,bobb9-made ,lace1 call$ ,po9t de ,fl&re ,bride ,picotes ,,ci4 ,?ree ,patt]ns ( ,bobb9-made ,me*l9 ,lace ,,cii4 ,?ree ,bord]s ( ,bobb9-made ,me*l9 ,lace ,,ciii4 ,f\r ,specim5s ( ,bobb9-made ,lace call$ ,b9*e ,lace ,,civ4 ,?ree ,bord]s ( ,bobb9-made ,lace ,vrai ,rseau de ,bruxelles1 call$ ,po9t ,d',anglet]re ,,cv4 ,lappet ( ,bobb9-made ,lace1 call$ ,po9t ,d',anglet]re ,,cvi4 ,two ,p>ts ( a ,bord] ( ,bobb9-made ,lace1 call$ ,brussels ,po9t ,,cvii4 7#a7 ,a ,sc>f 7#b7 ,a ,cap ,,cviii4 ,?ree ,bord]s ( ,bobb9-made ,lace1 call$ ,val5ci5nes ,po9t ,,cix4 ,f\r ,bord]s ( ,bobb9-made ,lace1 call$ ,val5ci5nes ,lace1 ) ,squ>e ,me% ,rseau ,,cx4 ,bord] ( ,bobb9-made ,lace1 ) a ,po9t de ,p>is ,rseau ,,cxi4 ,fl\nce = a ,dress1 ( ,bobb9-made ,silk ,lace ,,cxii4 ,?ree ,bord]s ( ,bobb9-made ,lace1 ) a rseau ( ,maglia di ,spagna ,,cxiii4 ,mantilla or ,sc>f ( ,bobb9-made ,black ,silk ,lace ,,cxiv4 ,two ,examples ( ,bobb9-made ,ins]tions ,,cxv4 ,f\r ,patt]ns ( ,italian ,gold & ,silv] ,bobb9-made ,lace ,,cxvi4 ,two ,lappets ( ,bobb9-made ,black ,,cxvii4 ,two ,bord]s ( ,bobb9-made ,lace ,,cxviii4 ,bord]1 ,cap1 & ,cr[n ( ,bobb9-made ,lace ,,cxix4 ,lappet ( ,bobb9-made ,lace ,,cxx4 ,two ,bord]s ( ,appliqu ,lace1 "o ) a v&yke edge & "o ) a mitr$ or scallop$ edge ,,introduction ,! idea ( giv+1 by means ( photography1 full-siz$ reproductions ( my specim5s ( anci5t ne$le & bobb9-made lace1 orig9at$ f a desire to avoid unfold+ ^! delicate fabrics :5 my fri5ds wi%$ to see !m4 ,by arrang+ c>efully t sev]al ( ! photographs %\ld give ! exact size ( ea* /it* ( ! "w1 see+ & h&l+ ! orig9als h be5 r5d]$ practically unnecess>y4 ,?\gh _m books on lace exi/ giv+ mo/ valuable hi/oric1 arti/ic & te*nical data1 none ) :i* ,i am acqua9t$ give ! practical in=mation ,i h f\nd mo/ desir$1 t is to say1 full-siz$ repres5tations ( ! pieces ( lace4 ,i !re=e ?9k t su* reproductions ( my specim5s may h a wid] int]e/ ?an ,i _h orig9ally imag9$1 & accord+ly ,i h n[ prep>$ !m = g5]al publication4 ,x is impossible to judge ( lace f a m]e picture ( pretty & arti/ic drap]y1 or f portraits ( great p]sonages we>+ lace coll>s or dress trimm+s4 ,lace 9 pictures has1 9 ! fir/ place1 be5 int]pret$ by ! pa9t]1 & no p5cil or bru% c %[ m ?an ! g5]al effect4 ,! /it*es 9 ! toil1 or gr\nd ( ne$le-po9t lace1 am\nt sometimes to sev]al ?\s& 9 e squ>e in*2 & ! almo/ incr$ible f95ess ( ! twi/s 9 ! rseau ( pill[ laces makes id5tification v difficult1 unless x is f\nd$ on obs]vation ( actual portions ( ! fabric4 ,x c h>dly be conte/$ t1 ap>t f "s g5]ally accept$ d$uctions z to design & "t ( execution1 ! *ief means ( judg+ lace correctly lies 9 /udy+ ! toil or clo?+1 & ! gr\ndwork ( me%es or rseau4 ,to assi/ 9 ?is1 _m ( ! examples ( my lace 9 _! actual size1 & 9 "s cases greatly enl>g$ photographs1 are giv54 ,i h illu/rat$ & describ$ only fabrics :i*1 if n 9 my possession1 h actually come "u my obs]vation1 su* z ! two anci5t albs ( ,ea/]n design1 :i*1 al?\gh hi!rto unnotic$ by ,italian writ]s on lace1 may1 ,i ?9k1 claim to h =m$ a v int]e/+ l9k betwe5 ! ,coptic or ,egypto-,roman design1 & t ( ! e>ly ,italian lace4 ,to aid 9 a judgm5t on ?is po9t1 ,i also illu/rate "s designs f e>ly ,coptic tombs4 ,! pre-,re=mation ,pyx ,veil ( ne$le-po9t l95 "w or tela tirata rema9s ! prop]ty ( ! p>i% ( ,hessett 9 ,suffolk4 ,x is a supremely int]e/+ object & unique1 z f> z ,i "k1 9 ! way x is work$4 ,i !re=e give two illu/rations ( x among ! e>ly sixte5?-c5tury l95 laces4 ,! p]iod to :i* ,i conf9e my treatm5t ( ?is art prev5ts my giv+ any acc\nt ( ! v successful & ext5sive revival ( lace-mak+ :i* has tak5 place all ov] ,europe dur+ ! la/ sixty ye>s4 ,italy1 ,france1 & ,great ,brita9 h already "s hundr$s ( lace c5tres1 :ile1 f ,d5m>k to ,madagasc>1 ,sw$5 to ,ceylon1 ,i h specim5s ( mo/ excell5t & praisewor?y indu/ries4 ,t ^!1 z well z ! v beautiful fabrics made n[ by lace ma*9es1 may prosp]1 mu/ be ! wi% ( all--& ,i believe t to /udy m & m c>efully ! models ( ! pa/ w be ! secret ( success4 ,i classify lace z ne$le-po9t & bobb9-po9t4 ,num]\s v>ieties occur 9 ea*1 b ,i w only m5tion ! ?ree *ief divisions ,i make 9 ea* class4 ,! ?ree *ief k9ds ( ne$le-po9t1 ,tr9e ad ,ago1 are3 #a4 ,lacis 7or ,modano7 & ,buratto "w4 7,see ,plates #h1 #aa1 #ag47 ,i include also "u ,lacis ^? v>ieties :i* are call$ 9 ,italy ,sfilature1 z ! anci5t specim5s are1 ,i f9d1 usually work$ on a f\ndation ( knott$ lacis4 ,see ,plate #g4 #b4 ,l95 lace1 compris+ reticello "w & tela tirata4 ,see ,plates #ad1 #ai1 #be4 #c4 ,punto 9 aria--( :i* all lat] ne$le-po9t laces are v>ieties4 ,see ,plates #ca & #cb4 ,! ?ree *ief ways ( mak+ bobb9-lace1 ,tr9e a fuselli1 are3 #a4 ,a tape1 sometimes pla91 sometimes ornam5t$1 is made on ! pill[4 ,?is tape is plac$ & arrang$ z wi%$ & jo9$ up on ! pill[1 b x is n cut or f9i%$ (f1 b cont9ues to =m ! patt]n until ! lace is complet$4 ,see ,plates #hc & #hd4 #b4 ,complete sprays or patt]ns are made on ! pill[ & f9i%$ (f2 ^! are aft]w>ds jo9$ by brides or by a rseau4 ,see ,plates #ij & #ia4 #c4 ,! bobb9s fir/ us$1 cont9ue & complete bo? patt]n & gr\nd ( ! :ole l5g? ( ! lace4 ,see ,plate #ig4 ,i "h give a ,gloss>y1 ! result ( inquiries tabulat$ dur+ a /ay 9 ,italy "s ye>s ago4 ,i _c f9d any au?oritative translation ( ! te*nical t]ms us$ to describe anci5t lace1 s ,i give my int]pretations = :at !y are wor?4 ,,gloss>y ,,j\rs or ,,modes ,see ,fill+s4 ,,alb ,! long l95 robe 7worn "u ! *asuble by prie/s at ! alt>7 :i* is sometimes enri*$ ) a bord] ( lace1 z well z ) lace on ! cuffs4 ,,appliqu ,:5 ! ornam5tation made sep>ately is fix$ & sewn by h& to a complete gr\nd ( bobb9 or ma*9e-made net4 ,,arg5tella ,a "n giv5 sometimes to lace made ) ei!r fill+s or a complete backgr\nd ( ! rseau call$ rosac4 ,?is v pretty "w occurs 9 bo? ,v5etian & ,fr5* ne$le-po9t ( ! eighte5? c5tury4 7,see ,plate #fj47 ,b x is a mi/ake to use ! ^w z d5ot+ a di/9ct make ( lace4 ,,avorio ,ivory4 ,see ,,punti4 ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,see ,,pill[-,,lace4 ,,bone ,,po9t ,see ,,cordonnet4 ,?is t]m 0 also appli$ to e>ly bobb9-made lace made 9 ,engl& ) bone bobb9s4 ,,brides1 or ,,b>s ,ties or loops betwe5 ! edges ( details1 =m+ ! patt]n1 & connect+ !m toge!r4 ,brides are (t5 adorn$ ) picots1 or little knots1 & are !n call$ brides picotes1 :5 !y h no picots !y are brides claires4 ,brides occur bo? 9 ne$lepo9t & 9 bobb9-made lace4 ,,button-,,hole ,,/it* ,see ,,punto ,a ,,fe/one4 ,,buratto ,lacis1 ) a twi/$ in/ead ( a knott$ f\ndation4 ,,clo?+ ,see also ,,fond & ,,toil4 ,,cordonnet ,"o or m ?reads us$ to outl9e or def9e ! =ms compos+ patt]ns ( lace4 ,! cordonnet 9 ! heavi] ,v5etian & ,spani% po9t is usually sub/antial & bold1 & 9 p>ts gradually swell+ & dim9i%+ to =m reliefs on ! lace1 :i* !n sugge/s an effect ( c>v$ bone or ivory4 ,?is gave rise to "o ( ! mean+s ( ! t]m1 bone po9t4 ,^! relief portions 7 (t5 enri*$ by r[s or ti]s ( picots4 ,9 ,al5on lace a horsehair in/ead ( a /\t ?read 0 sometimes us$ z a f\ndation = ! cordonnet1 :i* 0 closely ov]-ca/ ) button-hole /it*es4 ,,cotta ,! %ort :ite l95 robe worn by s]v]s & at times by prie/s4 ,?is1 l ! alb1 is sometimes trimm$ ) lace4 ,,filet ,see ,,lacis4 ,,fill+s ,^! are t]m$ 9 ,fr5* modes or j\rs1 & are ! ornam5tal "w 7made ei!r by ne$le or by bobb9s7 introduc$ into any enclos$ place 9 ! toil1 or else:]e 9 ! lace4 ,,fond ,see also ,,clo?+ & ,,toil4 ,! ^w fond1 or f\ndation1 d5otes ! close p>ts 9 ei!r ne$le-po9t or pill[ lace1 :i* 7 made fir/1 & !n jo9$ toge!r by b>s or brides1 or by a rseau4 ,9 "s laces ! :ole "w proce$s concurr5tly4 ,,fuselli ,bobb9s4 ,,groppo ,a knot4 ,,guipure ,a t]m long us$ = any lace ( a heavyi% texture made )\t rseau4 ,x is n[ (t5 us$ = lace made ) a tape1 b x applies m correctly1 p]haps1 to gimp "w4 ,,ivory ,,/it* ,or ,,punto-,,avorio4 ,s call$ because ! effect :5 closely work$ makes a surface l ivory1 z x is q )\t ! slight rib :i* %[s 9 punto a fe/one1 :i* is ! /it* usually f\nd 9 ! v>i\s punti 9 aria4 ,see ,no4 #f1 ,plate #h4 ,,lacis ,,or ,,lassis ,d]iv$ f ,lat9 laqueus1 a noose1 9 ,engli%1 ,lace4 ,a f\ndation ( net1 or filet1 ) a patt]n d>n$ into x4 ,! net = ! ,italian lacis1 call$ punto a maglia quadra1 z well z = ! ,fr5* filet or lacis1 0 made v mu* z fi%-nets are n[ made2 ! d>n+-/it* 0 call$ punto a ramm5do4 ,9 ,buratto lacis1 sometimes call$ punto di ,ragusa1 ! twi/$ network 0 made by pass+ ! f\ndation ?reads =w>ds & backw>ds 9 a frame4 7,see ,no4 #c1 ,plate #h47 ,! "n ,buratto comes f ! sieves made 9 ?is way 9 ,italy = sift+ gra9 & meal4 ,,macram ,d]iv$ f ! ,arabic4 ,x is a h&-made1 knott$ fr+e1 call$ ,moresco 9 ,spa94 ,,maglia ,me%4 ,,mezzo ,,punto ,a description ( lace 9 :i* ! patt]n is =m$ ) a braid or tape1 & ! brides & fill+s are ( ne$le-po9t "w4 ,see ,plate #ee4 ,,modano ,a g5]al "n 9 ,italy = lacis "w ) squ>e me%4 ,,modes ,see ,fill+s4 ,,picots ,loops or knots add$ to brides1 or1 inde$1 to any "p ( ! lace1 = its enri*m5t4 ,,pill[ ,,lace ,lace made ) bobb9s on a pill[2 ?is lace is call$ 9 ,italian tr9e a fuselli1 or sometimes m]letti a piomb9i1 z 9 mak+ ! co>s] lace ! work]s atta* pieces ( lead to ! bobb9s4 ,,po9t ,,lace ,/rictly speak+1 %\ld always mean ne$le-made lace1 z ! t]m is us$ too g5]ally 9 respect ( ei!r ne$le-made or pill[-made lace to be ( mu* value z a def9ition )\t fur!r qualification4 ,,po9t ,,de ,,neige ,a "n sometimes giv5 to f9e ,v5ice ne$le-po9t lace1 ) _m small rais$ fl[]s & clu/]s ( picots--:i* give ! effect almo/ ( sn[flakes4 ,see ,plate #ej4 ,,punto ,a /it*4 ,,punti ,9 ! e>lie/ ne$le-po9t lace-"w on l95 or net ! punti1 or /it*es1 7 z foll[s3 ,,punto ,a ,,ramm5do 7sometimes call$ ,,punto ,,di ,,g5oa74 ,d>n+ or ladd] /it*4 ,?is is ! /it* us$ 9 lacis "w4 ,see enl>g$ /it* ,nos4 #a & #c ( ,plate #h4 ,,punto ,a ,,/uora ,matt+ /it*4 ,?is /it* is us$ to make ! c5tres ( geometrical patt]ns 9 lacis & reticello "w4 ,x looks l ! c5tre ( a r\nd mat or basket4 ,see enl>g$ /it*1 ,no4 #a1 ,plate #h4 ,,punto ,,tagliato ,"w on cut l954 ,,punto ,a ,,tela ,l95 or clo? /it*4 ,,punto ,,tirato ,"w on l951 :i* is begun by pull+ ?reads f ! l95 )\t cutt+ x4 ,see ,,tela ,,tirata1 enl>g$ /it*1 ,no4 #e1 ,plate #h4 ,,punto ,,treccia ,or tress /it*--s call$ f ! ?reads ( l95 be+ left loose1 & only caught "h & !re by a few /it*es1 s look+ l a tress ( hair4 ,see ,plate #h1 & top bord] ( ,no4 #b1 ,plate #bi4 ,treccia also means plait4 ,lat] /it*es 73 ,,punto ,,avorio ,see ,,ivory ,,/it*1 enl>g$ /it*1 ,no4 #f1 ,plate #h4 ,,punto ,,9 ,,aria ,ne$le-po9t lace work$ )\t any f\ndation ( net or l951 h5ce ! t]m1 aria--9 ! air4 ,see ,plate #ca4 ,,punto ,a ,,fe/one ,buttonhole /it*3 9 ,fr5* po9t n\4 ,! t]m a fe/one comes f fe/oon--a g>l& hang+ 9 a curve--! /it* be+ (t5 us$ :5 edg+ lace to =m curves or fe/oons r\nd ! edge or ! patt]ns ( lace4 ,! buttonhole or loop$ /it* is us$ 9 con/ruct+ ! toil1 or fond1 & also to cov] ! cordonnet & brides ( ne$le-po9t lace4 ,until ! adv5t ( ! rseau ?is /it* 0 almo/ ! only "o us$ 9 ,v5etian ne$le-po9t4 ,see enl>g$ lace ,plate #di1 & ,plate #eb4 ,,punto ,,riccio ,lit]ally curl$ /it*3 ?is is a v>iety ( punto scritto1 b ! "n w easily be und]/ood on look+ at ! specim5s--z !y are adorn$ ) ! t5dril-l curls1 :i* gives ! "n to ?is /it*4 ,see ,no4 #c1 ,plate #bh4 ,,punto ,,reale ,?is is really an embroid]]'s /it*1 & 9 ,engli% call$ sat9 /it*2 9 l95 lace x is usually associat$ ) punto tirato4 ,,punto ,,9 ,,rilievo ,rais$ or rose /it*4 ,,punto ,,scritto ,lit]ally writ+ /it*1 z ?is /it* is us$ = m>k+ names & g5]ally = outl9+ "w4 ,9 ,engli% x w\ld be call$ %ort /it*4 ,,quadro ,a squ>e 7z 9 punto a maglia quadra1 or squ>e me% net74 ,r,,seau ,t]m us$ = :at may be call$ ! me% backgr\nd ( bo? ne$le & bobb9-made lace4 ,! rseau connects ! toil1 or m solid p>ts ( ! patt]ns toge!r by fill+ ! spaces betwe5 !m ) f9e me%es1 ! make ( :i* is v v>i$ especially 9 ! pill[ laces4 ,! two rseaux ( ,al5on ne$le-po9t are %[n 9 ,no4 #a1 ,plate #i1 & ! rseau fe/on ( ,arg5tan is %[n 9 ,no4 #c1 ,plate #i1 ! rseau ( ! ,v5ice po9t rseau 9 ,no4 #b1 ,plate #i4 ,! ne$le-po9t rseau ( ! ,brussels lace is ,no4 #d1 ,plate #i2 & ! bobb9-made ,brussels1 n[ call$ vrai rseau1 is ,no4 #e1 ,plate #i4 ,! rseaux ( ! bobb9 laces are %[n on ,plate #aj4 ,,no4 #a ,! maglia di ,spagna1 or ,spani% me%2 ?is 0 also mu* us$ = f9e silk laces or ruffles4 ,see ,plate #aab4 ,,no4 #b ,! rseau call$ sometimes po9t de ,p>is1 & also fond *ant2 x 0 us$ = ,p>is pill[-made laces1 z well z at ,*antilly = silk ,blonde laces4 ,x also occurs 9 pill[ laces f ,italy & ,fl&]s4 ,,no4 #c ,! rseau ( e>ly ,val5ci5nes1 call$ ! r\nd rseau4 ,see ,plate #ajh4 ,,no4 #d ,rseau ( ,me*l9 lace4 ,9 ?is two sides ( ea* me% are ( plait$ ?reads1 ! o!r f\r ( twi/$ ?reads4 ,,no4 #e ,rseau call$ c9q tr\s1 *>act]i/ic ( mu* ,flemi% lace4 ,see ,plates #ii & #ajj4 ,,no4 #f ,rseau ( lat] ,val5ci5nes1 call$ squ>e rseau1 & ( late ye>s almo/ ! only rseau us$ 9 ,yprs lace4 ,see ,plate #aji4 ,,no4 #g ,rseau ( ,buck+ham lace4 ,?is also corresponds ) ! rseau us$ 9 ,lille & ,arras pill[ laces4 ,see ,plate #ajg4 ,,reticello ,! ^w is d]iv$ f rete1 a net1 & is usually descriptive ( ! patt]ns 9 :i* repeat$ squ>es1 ) :eel or /> devices & su*-l1 dep5d+ ^u ! diagonals ( ea* squ>e1 are ! prevail+ features4 ,9 ne$le-po9t lace ^! op5work patt]ns are usually ( buttonhole /it*+4 ,! squ>es are p>tly cut out ( ! l95 mat]ial1 ! ?reads n cut are sewn ov] ) punto a ramm5do =m+ a frame = ! re/ ( ! "w4 7,plate #bi47 ,! reticello patt]n is also c>ri$ out 9 e>ly bobb9-made lace4 ,see ,plate #hf4 ,,rosal9e ,a mod]n ,italian "n = ! f9e ,v5etian po9t call$ po9t de neige4 ,see ,plate #ej4 ,,rose-,,po9t ,any ne$le-po9t ) rais$ "w on x4 ,?is rais$ "w may be sometimes sugge/ive ( recurr5t blossoms1 b ! ^w rose 9 ?is connection is te*nical1 & m]ely means rais$4 ,,sfilatura ,drawn ?read "w4 ,a v>iety ( lacis4 ,see ,no4 #a1 ,plate #bh4 ,,tela ,,tirata ,or drawn "w4 ,! l95 is sometimes drawn1 t is to say1 ?reads ( bo? w>p & wo( are remov$ f ! entire piece to be work$1 only leav+ ?ree or f\r ?reads ea* way4 ,! patt]n is !n d>n$ 9 s z to appe> l ! orig9al l954 ,i believe ! id5tical ?reads drawn out are sometimes us$ = ?is4 ,! rema9+ ?reads are !n sewn ov] to =m ! backgr\nd ( small squ>es4 7,see ,no4 #e1 ,plate #h47 ,a second way is only to draw ?reads f ! backgr\nd1 cutt+ "s ( ! cross ?reads1 & leav+ ! orig9al l95 to =m ! patt]n1 z 9 ,no4 #d1 ,plate #h4 ,,toil ,is ! clo?+1 fond1 or clos] texture 9 ! patt]n ( bo? ne$le- & bobb9-made lace4 ,toil is s call$ because x resembles toile or l954 ,! v>i\s details ( ! toil 9 ne$le-po9t lace are usually outl9$ by a buttonhole /it* cordonnet1 or sometimes m]ely by a s+le ?read1 & are !n fitt$ to ea* o!r to =m a complete design4 ,?is fitt+ toge!r ( ! sev]al p>ts is well exemplifi$ 9 ,no4 #dj1 ,v5etian cut l95 lace1 9 :i* ! fond is really ( toil1 cut & jo9$ by brides4 ,9 all ! o!r specim5s ! toil is :olly ( ne$le-po9t "w4 ,9 ! e>li] ne$le-po9t laces brides 7 us$1 b 9 lat] ones ! :ole backgr\nd usually consi/s ( a rseau4 ,,tombolo ,lace pill[4 ,,tr9a ,lace4 ,,tr9e ,,ad ,,ago1 ne$le-made laces2 ,,tr9e ,a ,,fuselli1 bobb9-made laces--,italian t]ms 9 pres5t use4 ,,sev5 ,,c5turies ,,( ,,lace ,_m books giv+ patt]ns = lace-mak+ 7 produc$ 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 b few ( !m af=d any te*nical in/ruction 9 ! art1 & all assume t lace 0 already 9 dem& ?r\gh\t ,europe4 ,we ne$ n !re=e take ^! int]e/+ little books into consid]ation 9 det]m9+ ! antiquity ( lace1 al?\gh !y are ( great assi/ance on ! "q ( design1 z !y con/antly %[ by introduc+ ! gammadion & o!r symbols1 ! survival ( ! ,ori5tal tradition4,a ,?is is also cle>ly %[n 9 ! num]\s specim5s ( embroid]ies & wov5 silks made 9 ,sicily & ,spa9 9 ! ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies1 & pres]v$ 9 our own & ,cont95tal museums4 ,a ,eyn neu ,kun/li*bu*1 c4 ,metre pi]e qu9ty ,cologne1 #aebg4 ,! e>lie/ specim5s ( lace /it*es 9 my possession are on pieces ( ,coptic l95 "w f tombs ( ! ?ird to ! fif? c5tury f ! collection ( ,mr4 ,r4 de ,ru/afjaell4 ,! ?reads purposely left loose 9 ! weav+ are held by punto a ramm5do work$ 9 :ite l95 ?read4 ,a backgr\nd ( col\r$ wor/$ is aft]w>ds add$1,b 7,see ,plate #d47 ,x is int]e/+ to comp>e ! t[el1 ,,no4 #a 9 ,plate #bh1 :i* 9 my op9ion has probably be5 work$ 9 ! same way1 t is1 ! weav] has omitt$ ! wo( ?reads1 leav+ only ! w>p ?reads to be drawn toge!r by ne$lework4 ,! bobb9-lace f\nd 9 ! same tomb is illu/rat$ 9 ,plate #e4 ,b ,d>n+ /it* exi/s 9 ! ,briti% ,museum on a piece ( mat]ial wov5 f flax1 & f\nd 9 an ,egyptian tomb4 ,& *a9 /it* is se5 on a fragm5t ( ,greek "w ( ! f\r? c5tury1 ,b4,c41 at ! ,h]mitage1 ,/4 ,pet]sburg4 ,! fir/ m5tion ( lace-mak+ 9 ,europe t ,i "k ( is an old rule ( ! ?irte5? c5tury = ,engli% nuns1 caution+ !m aga9/ devot+ too mu* "t to lace & ornam5tal "w to ! detrim5t ( "w = ! poor4,c ,c ,ne makie none purses 444 ne laz bute leave1 auh s*epi$1 & se\w$1 & am5d$ *]*e clodes1 & p\re monne clodes4 ,d n make no purses 444 nor lace1 )\t leave1 b %ape & sew1 & m5d1 *ur*-ve/m5ts & poor p's clo!s4 ,! ,ancr5 ,riwle 7,! ,nun's ,rule71 p4 #dbj1 h4 ,a4,d4 #abaj4 ,morton's edition1 ,old ,engli%1 #ahec4 ,?is laz or lace 0 d\btless lacis4 ,?is lacis or network1 n[ call$ modano 9 ,italy1 0 ! e>lie/ f\ndation = ! "w ( ne$le-made lace tr9e ad ago4 ,we f9d 9 ! ,app5dix to ,dugdale's ,hi/ory ( ,/4 ,paul's m5tion ( "w ( albo filo nodato knott$ :ite ?read4 ,?is 0 not$ at a ,visitation made 9 #abie4;,d ,b pieces ( ?is opus sfilatorium h also be5 f\nd 9 ,egyptian tombs4 ,e>ly specim5s (t5 h ! gammadion or symbol ( ! cross4 ,see ,plate #d4 ,d ,dugdale1 ,/4 ,paul's1 p4 #caf4 ,a roll ( ! possessions ( ! ,templ>s aft] _! suppression 9 #acab includes an inv5tory ( ! goods ( ,temple ,*ur*4 ,"o item ( ?is is "o net :i* is call$ ,esp9um to cov] ,lect]n1 #bs4,e ,we mu/ look to ! specim5s exi/+ f e>ly times 9 ,europe1 & to contempor>y te/imony1 :e!r ( pa9t+ or sculpture1 to enable u to fix ! date ( ^! int]e/+ productions ( human indu/ry--! e>ly lacis & l95 laces4 ,embroid]y on silk1 9 :i* _m ( ! lace /it*es 7 us$1 has a v e>ly record4 ,e ,norfolk ,ar*ology1 vol4 v4 7,norwi* #ahei71 p4 #ia4 ,"h we ne$ only cite ! _m magnific5t examples ( embroid]$ ,*ur* ve/m5ts1 *asubles1 copes1 c41 s freely produc$ f ! ?irte5? c5tury onw>ds1 ( :i* ! wond]ful ,dalmatic ( ! n9? c5tury 9 ! ,vatican ,treasury1 ! ,syon ,cope ( ! ?irte5? c5tury 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum1 toge!r ) o!rs1 are to ?is date 9 excell5t & almo/ p]fect condition4 ,n[1 if we rememb] t albs & o!r l95 ve/m5ts us$ at ,mass h be5 = c5turies z necess>y & important z ! out] ones ( silk1 x mu/ be all[$ t :ile su* a weal? ( decoration 0 lavi%$ on ! latt]1 adornm5t ( ! =m] 0 n likely to h be5 omitt$4 ,i am1 !re=e1 ( op9ion t mu* ( ! lacis1 tela tirata1 & reticello "w g5]ally ascrib$ to ! fifte5? & sixte5? c5turies1 may m correctly be consid]$ to be e>li] 9 date4 ,t few ( su* anci5t specim5s rema9 is no d\bt due to ! l95 ?read be+ less durable ?an ! silk & also to t ar* enemy ( lace 9 all ages1 ! wa%]woman4 ,z silk & gold embroid]y c\ld n be wa%$1 x surviv$4 ,all :o h to c>e = ,*ur* ve/m5ts at ! pres5t "t "k t albs & o!r l95 objects = ,*ur* use are comp>atively %ort-liv$1 & x mu/ be rememb]$ t lace 9 e>ly times 0 *iefly made = ,*ur* purposes4 ,aft] consult+ illum9at$ manuscripts ( ! eigh? & n9? c5turies1 ,i h come to ! conclusion t !re is 9 !m /rong evid5ce ( lacework hav+ be5 employ$ to ornam5t ! albs worn ev5 at ^? p]iods4 ,/4 ,m>k1 9 a ,gospel 7n[ 9 ! ,biblio?que ,nationale1 ,p>is7 said to h be5 writt5 = ,*>lemagne1 we>s an alb :i* appe>s to me to be ( ?is k9d4 ,also 9 ! ,biblio?que ,nationale1 ,p>is1 is a twelf?-c5tury ,bible1 call$ ! ,bible ( ,/4 ,m>tial1 9 :i* ! ,bi%op is pictur$ we>+ a highly ornam5tal alb "u 8 go?ic-%ap$ *asuble4 ,he grasps 8 pa/oral /aff 9 "o h&1 & ) ! o!r he receives ! preci\s ,book4,f ,f ,vol4 viii41 ,plate #bde1 ( ,ba/>d's ,pe9tures et ,ornem5ts des ,,mss4 ,p>is1 #ahcb-fi4 ,on ! "q ( design1 z indicat+ ! date ( lacework1 ,i am ( op9ion t ! e>ly geometric "* ( primitive design 0 soon] modifi$ ?an is g5]ally ?\ght to be ! case4 ,we f9d1 = in/ance1 9 an eigh?-c5tury ,gospel 9 ! ,biblio?que ,nationale ( ,p>is1 a scroll ornam5t pa9t$ ) v9e leaves1 grapes1 c4 ,:y %\ld n ?is h inspir$ a lacework] ( ! same p]iod to attempt a simil> design8 ,at a little lat] date a ,sacram5taire has mo/ reali/ic fl[]s & leaves ornam5t+ ! initials 9 ! ,manuscript4 ,^! beautiful works ( art 7 execut$ by religi\s p]sons & monks1 probably ( ! ,b5$ict9e ,ord]4 ,a great "p ( ! lace made at ! same "t 0 und\bt$ly ! "w ( nuns4 ,:at m likely ?an t mutual assi/ance 0 giv5 to c>ry out ! pr9cipal aim ( bo?--! ornam5tation & glory ( ! ,sacr$ ,scriptures1 & ! s]vices ( ! ,*ur*8 ,_m ( ! e>li] albs are decorat$ ) passem5s or app>els1 :i* are squ>es or oblongs ( ornam5tal "w (t5 enri*$ ) gold ?read4 ,^! 7 sewn on ! l[] "p ( ! front ( ! alb & on ! cuff ( ! sleeve4 ,! alb pres]v$ at ! ,ca!dral ( ,s5s1 & said to h be5 worn by ,/4 ,?omas ( ,cant]bury1 is ornam5t$ 9 ?is way4 ,9 "s ( ! old books ( patt]ns = lace1 ! /raight-edg$ laces are all call$ passem5s1 & only ! po9t$ ones d5telles1 or pizzi4 ,lat] ! app>els gave place to ornam5t work$ on ! l95 itself1 & (t5 =m+ a cont9u\s b& ( decoration m or less wide r\nd ! edge4 ,a tomb/one on ! floor ( ! *ur* ( ,/4 ,sab9a 9 ,rome has a recumb5t figure ) an alb decorat$ ) a b& ( ?is k9d4 ,! inscription d5otes t ! figure repres5ts a ,g]man abbot1 nam$ ,egidius ,v>nspra*2 ! date is #acab4 ,lat] /ill1 lace ( all k9ds 0 m]ely sewn on to ! alb z a fl\nce1 9 ! way usually adopt$ at ! pres5t "t4 ,z f> z ,i am aw>e1 only two complete albs ( e>ly l95 lace exi/4 ,!y are bo? ( v f9e texture1 ! ?read ( ! l95 hav+ be5 spun ) great c>e & ! weav+ v closely done4 ,! olde/ is ! alb1 ,plate #a1 :i* is said to h be5 wov5 & ornam5t$ by ,/4 ,cl>e ( ,assisi & h] nuns1 & is /ill pres]v$ 9 ! mona/]y ( t place4 ,! tradition is t x 0 worn by ,/4 ,francis ( ,assisi4 ,i 0 =tunately able to exam9e x closely & to obta9 details ( ! lacework1 :i* is work$ on ! l95 itself 9 tela tirata & punto reale4 ,symbolic animals & *im]as are introduc$1 b ! polygonal "* ( ! design is pres]v$ ?r\gh\t1 & e/abli%es1 ,i consid]1 its ,coptic d]ivation4 ,to confirm ?is1 ,i ne$ only in/ance ! fact t ^!1 & o!r e>lie/ kn[n specim5s ( lacis & l95 lace exi/+1 are almo/ id5tical 9 design ) ! =ms famili> to u f ! discov]ies 9 ,coptic tombs 9 ,egypt f ! fir/ & ?ird c5turies onw>ds4 ,^! designs1 simple & =mal z !y appe>1 are really full ( mean+4 ,mr4 ,alb]t ,gayet has po9t$ out1 9 8 hi/ory ( ,coptic art1 t ! law ( polygonal evolution only complet$ 9 ! elev5? c5tury ! c\rse x _h /eadfa/ly pursu$ f ! beg9n+4 ,he cont9ues3 ,x seems a f> cry f ! e>ly ,greek tradition to ?is "t4 ,b ! ,coptic arti/ 0 nev] 9 sympa?y ) ! ,greek /riv+ t[>ds realism4 ,he wi%$ to express1 n ! image itself1 b ! impression convey$ by ! image4 ,he pref]r$ ! ?\ght to ! concrete =m4 ,! div9e idea1 :i* to ! ,greek mu/ mean a precise repres5tation1 he pref]s to r5d] q o!rwise4 ,! fidelity ( ! ,coptic arti/ to ?is polygony r5d]s x ! key to all 8 art4 ,8 fir/ ef=ts are blund]s1 b he is n disc\rag$1 he cont9ues )\t hesitation to foll[ 8 ideal4 ,he f9ds 9 ! philosophy ( ! polygon ! impression he wi%es to convey ( ! ideal & ! invisible4 ,8 composition1 accord+ to ! ,gno/ic def9ition1 has its secret side1 hidd5 "u ! emblem %[n1 :ile ! emblem %[n has also a hidd5 side4 ,!n by ! sup]position ( entrelacs1 or /rap-"w1 he conveys ! idea ( evolution1 or ?+s 7my/]ies7 turn+ & repeat+ !mselves indef9itely1 b always 9 an inflexible circle4 ,= example1 a numb] ( />-c5tr$ octagons1 =m$ by a network ( l9es1 w h a cross 9 ! c5tre--o!r little crosses may be trac$ 9 ea* />--& 9 ! arabesques ( ! corn]s crosses may also be f\nd4 ,ev]y:]e1 ev5 9 ! mo/ closely pack$ "w1 ?is symbol c be f\nd2 ! mo/ ab/ract geometrical comb9ations are /ill subject to ! same sy/em4 ,polygony places ev]y:]e & always ! sign ( ! ,fai?4,g ,g ,gayet1 ,a41 ,l'art ,copte4 ,p>is1 #aijb4 ,i mu/ also make a quotation f ! le>n$ ,dr4 ,rock1 :i*1 ?\gh writt5 ne>ly =ty ye>s ago1 is s apposite :ile consid]+ ?is beautiful lacework f ,assisi & its ,ea/]n d]ivation4 ,/r5g!n+ our idea t ! old ,egyptians _h borr[$ ! cross z a spell aga9/ evil1 & a symbol ( et]nal life1 is a passage set =? by ,ruf9us1 ,a4,d4 #cig1 & by ,socrates ,b4,c4 #ddj4 ,on demoli%+ at ,alex&ria a temple d$icat$ to ,s]apis1 7 obs]v$ sev]al /ones sculptur$ ) lett]s call$ hi]oglyphics1 :i* %[$ ! figures ( a cross4 ,c]ta9 ,g5tile inhabitants ( ! city :o _h lately be5 conv]t$ to ! ,*ri/ian fai?1 initiat$ 9 ! me?od ( int]pret+ ^! enigmatic *>act]s1 decl>$ t ! figure ( ! cross 0 consid]$ z ! symbol ( future life4,h ,h ,hi/4 ,eccles41 lib4 v41 c4 #ag4 ,we "k t modifications ( ! =m ( ! cross h be5 f\nd on monum5ts already discov]$2 o!rs may turn up ) ! s-call$ 'gammadion' f\nd ^u ,egyptian /uff ( su* an e>ly date4 ,! recurr5ce ( ! gammadion ^u ,*ri/ian monum5ts is curi\s4 ,x is %[n 9 ! catacombs1 & 9 num]\s lat] in/ances4 ,*ri/ianity wid5$ ! mean+ ( ?is symbol & made x tea* ! doctr9e ( ! ,atonem5t ( ,calv>y1 & t ,*ri/ is our corn]-/one4 ,9 ! ?irte5? c5tury x 0 tak5 to be an apt memorial ( ,8 five w\nds &1 rememb]+ ! /igmata ( ,/4 ,francis ( ,assisi1 ?is gammadion became ! fav\rite device ( su* z bore t ,sa9t's "n4,i ,i ,dr4 ,rock1 ,introduction to ,textile ,fabrics at ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum 7,*apman & ,hall1 #ahgj71 p4 cxxxix4 ,no less ?an tw5ty v>ieties ( ^! polygonal ornam5ts1 _m ( !m introduc+ ! gammadion1 are to be f\nd 9 ! lacework ( ! ,assisi alb4 ,see ,plate #c4 ,! tradition m5tion$ by ,dr4 ,rock ( ! device ( ! gammadion be+ id5tifi$ ) ,/4 ,francis may1 ,i ?9k1 h orig9at$ 9 ! circum/ance ( 8 hav+ worn ?is alb4 ,9 ,plate #f ,i give two examples ( e>ly ,italian punto reale ( ! same k9d al?\gh v inf]ior 9 v>iety & 9 workman%ip1 b 9 mo/ ( ^! e>ly c>tiglia1 z ?is "w is call$ 9 ,italy1 ! polygonal idea is /ill pr$om9ant4 ,! o!r complete alb is also ( l95 lace1 & is said to h be5 worn by ,pope ,boniface ,,viii4 9 #abih4 7,see ,plate #b47 ,x is pres]v$ 9 ! ,treasury ( ! ,si/9e ,*apel 9 ! ,vatican1 :]e ,i _h an opportunity ( exam9+ x closely & ( obta9+ ! te*nical details ,i give4 ,z to its possible hi/ory ,i may note t ,/4 ,nilos & 8 monks 7 driv5 f ! ,ea/ by ! ,s>ac5s at ! end ( ! t5? c5tury1 & came to ,italy1 :]e !y 7 welcom$ by ,pope ,gregory ,v4 ,he e/abli%$ !m 9 ! mona/]y a few miles f ,rome1 :]e _! successors /ill wor%ip ) _! ,ea/]n rites4 ,! fam\s alb may h be5 br\ght by ^! v monks or ^? :o foll[$ !m f ! ,ea/4,j ,j ,! ,pope1 ,gregory ,v4 7#iif-iii71 & ! ,we/]n ,emp]or1 ,o?o ,,iii4 7#iic-ajjb71 :o 0 !n also at ,rome1 w5t out to meet ! /rang]s beyond ! walls1 & receiv$ !m ) all possible hon\r & respect4 ,& out !re 9 ! ,campagna1 at ,grottaf]rata1 ,/4 ,nilos at la/ built a home = 8 monks1 & !re he di$4 ,grottaf]rata has /ood un*ang$ till n[1 no ,pope has tri$ to de/roy or ,lat9ise x2 aft] t5 c5turies1 its monks s+ out _! ,greek (fice 9 ! v he>t ( ! ,lat9 ,patri>*ate1 :ile outside ! ,lat9 olives %elt] its ,byzant9e walls4--,! ,or?odox ,ea/]n ,*ur*1 ,adrian ,=tescue1 ,d4,d4 ,london1 #aijg4 ,!n1 z n[1 specim5s ( ! _w's treasures ( art & h&icraft arriv$ 9 ,rome f all p>ts ( ! kn[n _w4 ,i see no difficulty 9 recognis+ ! antiquity ( ?is alb4 ,t ! great ,pope ,boniface ,,viii4 wore x is only a tradition1 & no evid5ce is af=d$ or v\*$ = by ! au?orities at ! ,vatican4 ,"o evid5ce ( its orig9 %\ld n be ov]look$ :i* is ! mat]ial1 :i* ,i believe to be ! real ,byssus1 or f9e h&spun l95 f ! plant ,l9um usitatissimum n at t "t available 9 ,europe4 ,dr4 ,bock rem>ks t ?is ,byssus 0 mu* s\ght = 9 e>ly ,*ri/ian times "u ! "n ( ,byssus ( ,alex&ria4,k ,! l95 ( ! ,assisi alb is ( ! same texture1 :i* ,i c only describe z crisp & wiry1 not)/&+ t 9 _m p>ts x is mu* worn2 on h&l+ ! l95 x rem9d$ "o at once ( ! l95 ( ,egyptian mummy clo?s1 & ! ,italian curators ( bo? albs1 :ile ,i mu/ say pr(\ndly indiff]5t z to ! que/ions ( design & execution1 :i* int]e/$ me mo/1 7 all q c]ta9 t !y _h kn[n no l95 texture resembl+ x 9 ,italy4 ,x 0 impossible n to call to m9d 9 ?is connection1 ,f9e l95 ) broid]$ "w f ,egypt 0 t :i* ?\ spreade/ =? to be ?y sail4,l ,! l95 ( ! alb ( ,pope ,boniface is slightly f9] ?an t ( ! ,assisi alb1 & is heavily work$ ) lace ornam5ts ( an ,ea/]n "*4 ,! repeat$ geometrical patt]ns1 or rosettes symmetrically gr\p$ 9 squ>es1 are work$ by ! ne$le 9 punto a ramm5do 7see ,plate #c71 & ! curi\s /it* call$ punto treccia1 or tress-"w1 is introduc$1 z well z ! punto a /uora1 or matt+ /it*4 ,x may be obs]v$ t 9 su* e>ly lacework ! punto a fe/one1 or buttonhole /it*1 is nev]1 or v r>ely f\nd1 ?\gh aft]w>ds x became almo/ ! only /it* us$ 9 all ne$le-po9t1 until ! adv5t ( ! rseau4 ,k ,dr4 ,franz ,bock1 ,die textil5 ,byssus1 ,aa*51 #ahie4 ,l ,eze*iel1 xxvii4 #g4 ,9 ! alb ( ,pope ,boniface !re is no buttonhole /it*--! ornam5ts 9 squ>es call$ quadri 7 ins]t$ 9 ! l95 ( ! alb1 & 7 surr\nd$ by r[s ( punto tirato work$ 9 ! l95 itself4 ,! fl\nce & ins]tions1 or falsature1 ( pill[-made lace 7 evid5tly add$ at a lat] date4 ,x is int]e/+ to see 9 ! fresco by ,giotto 7#abgf-accg71 pres]v$ 9 ,/4 ,john ,lat]an1 t ,pope ,boniface ,,viii4 is support$ by two ecclesia/ics1 "o ( :om is we>+ an alb ) :at appe>s to be lace on ! sleeve4 ,! tomb ( ! same pope1 & ( o!rs ( ab\t ! same date1 af=d /ill m cog5t evid5ce4 ,9 ! ,crypt ( ,/4 ,pet]'s1 ,rome1 ,pope ,boniface ,,viii4 is repres5t$ 9 full pontifical ve/m5ts ly+ on a bi] :i* is drap$ ) a ri*ly ornam5tal pall2 ?is is rais$ to %[ a l95 clo? ) a bord] ( reticello "w 9 :at is t]m$ by a le>n$ writ] ! well-kn[n geometrical design ( ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,! ,pope we>s an alb ) an ornam5tal bord] :i* is repeat$ on ! sleeves4 ,! fact is1 ( c\rse1 ackn[l$g$ t l95 clo? 0 us$ = b$-l951 t[els1 & o!r articles4 ,= albs1 l951 & l95 only1 0 ord]$ by ! rubric2 !re=e1 if "o sees an alb repres5t$1 :e!r by pa9t+ or sculpture1 ! int5tion to repres5t l95 is impli$4 ,&1 if ornam5t$1 ! int5tion to repres5t l95 lace is cle> 9 _m in/ances1 al?\gh ! pa9t] or sculptor _c1 ( c\rse1 give u a facsimile z satisfy+ z ! photographs we h "h4 ,i w "h ref] to ! well-kn[n pictures by ,giotto & 8 s*ool4 ,"o 9 ! ,l\vre1 ( ! bir? ( ,/4 ,john ! ,bapti/1 has mo/ unmi/akable lacework on ! l95 ( ! b$1 & on ! long t[el gracefully depict$ z hang+ f ! %\ld] ( "o ( ! att5dants4 ,a fresco1 also by ,giotto1 9 ! ,basilica ( ,assisi1 repres5ts ! figure ( ! ,div9e ,infant 9 a %irt ) reticello ornam5t4 ,duccio di ,buon9segna 7#abfj-acdj7 & ,lor5zetti 7#abgf-acdh7 may be m5tion$ among _m o!rs1 z 9 _! pa9t+s l95 clo?s are r5d]$ ) unmi/akable ne$le-po9t ornam5t4 ,x is q cle> t ^! laces 7 9 g5]al use be=e ! f\rte5? c5tury1 al?\gh x is n surpris+ t few specim5s rema9 to u4 ,! patt]n ( ! lacis1 or sfilatura1 9 ,plate ,no4 #g1 is geometrical1 ) an ,ea/]n t5d5cy1 z 9 ,pope ,boniface's alb4 ,x is s+ul>ly l ! dresses ( sa9ts 9 "s ( ! ,rav5na mosaics1 & ! m anci5t /it*es c be se5 9 ! specim5 giv51 b !re is no buttonhole /it*4 ,9 describ+ ! design ( ?is piece ( old lacis1 ,i am aga9 tempt$ to quote ,m4 ,gayet's description ( lace f\nd 9 ! ,coptic tomb4 ,he says3 ,x is lace z x is made to-day4 ,all ! ?reads ( ! rseau are drawn toge!r to "o po9t1 & ! me%es />t f ! c5tre l rays cross+ & recross+ & ?us =m+ v>i\s patt]ns4 ,! pieces ( network f ^! ,coptic tombs1 pres]v$ 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum fully ju/ify ?is description1 & no d\bt ! ,ea/]n tradition c be trac$ 9 ,plate #g4 ,z we h se51 ! ornam5t ( ! e>lie/ laces 0 simple1 or quasi-simple1 9 design2 b ev5 !n ! crav+ to repres5t life (t5 appe>s4 ,! b& d[n ! front ( ! ,assisi alb1 = example1 has a r[ ( /ags ?or\ghly subs]vi5t to ! di/9ctly polygonal idea4 ,9 ,plate #aa a portion ( an e>ly lacis or modano bord] is repres5t$4 ,conv5tional peacocks & num]\s small] birds are add$ to ! c5tral design ( ,i4,h4,s4 9 ,go?ic lett]s--qua9t little angels are at ! ends ( "s ( ! rays4 ,! inscription has s f> f\nd no int]pret]4 ,! alt>-clo? 9 ,plate #ab may possibly h be5 made = ,ri*>d ,,ii42 8 two wives 7 bo? ,fr5*1 & ?is piece has ! /ag1 :i* 0 ! royal device4 ,no4 #a ( ,plate #ac is an int]e/+ bord] ( ,sicilian lacis1 ! design ,ea/]n1 introduc+ ! gammadion1 ! nett+ is all made obliquely4 ,two /it*es are us$ = ! patt]n1 ! punto a ramm5do & also ! punto scritto4 ,a v&yk$ bord] ( punto avorio is add$4 ,9 ,plate #ad ! squ>es ( lacis or modano are alt]nat$ ) l95 work$ ) reticello4 ,! design 9 ea* squ>e is diff]5t4 ,! effect ( ! gold ?read add$ to ! patt]n work$ 9 punto a tela1 or l95-/it*1 9 ,plate #ae1 is v good1 & !re is mu* v>iety 9 ! execution ( ?is piece4 ,no4 #a ( ,plate #af is lacis ( possibly ,g]man "w ) a design ( v9e-leaves & grapes work$ 9 punto a tela4 ,no4 #b is a v&yk$ bord] ( ,engli% lacis ) a patt]n ( l>ge & small blossoms--! l>g] ones resemble ,tudor roses4 ,bo? ^! pieces h ! punto riccio introduc$4 ,plate #ag is a specim5 ( lacis call$ buratto 9 ,italy1 z ! nett+ is twi/$ & n knott$4 ,! patt]n is punto a ramm5do1 work$ ) v co>se ?read1 b ! result is satisfactory4 ,?is piece mu/ be e>ly sixte5?-c5tury "w4 ,! two examples ( buratto "w 9 ! foll[+ plate1 ,plate #ah1 are mu* m f9ely work$ ) punto a ramm5do4 ,! n>r[ bord] is probably ! e>lie/4 ,al5on has c]ta9ly m romantic associations ?an any o!r lace-produc+ t[n4 ,= ! mak+ ( lace at ,al5on did n beg9 only ) ! e/abli%m5t ( t indu/ry 9 #affj1 ( :i* ,i %all speak lat]4 ,m ?an a c5tury be=e t date ,m>gurite d',ang\lme1 ,du*ess ( ,al5on1 & aft]w>ds ,que5 ( ,nav>re1 :ile liv+ at h] ca/le ( ,al5on1 work$ & caus$ to be work$1 beautiful ornam5ts = albs & o!r articles = use at ! alt> ( ,/4 ,leon>d's1 h] p>i% *ur*4 ,"s ( ^! are pres]v$ 9 ! ,al5on ,museum2 a specim5 ( e>ly lacis is especially int]e/+1 work$ 9 squ>es ) radiat+ ?reads1 & ! c5tres work$ ) punto a /uora z 9 ,plate #ag4 ,! specim5 ( lacis1 ) gold ?read introduc$ simil> to t 9 ,plate #ae1 may v likely be ! v piece allud$ to by ,clm5t ,m>ot 9 8 odes to ,que5 ,m>gurite4 ,%e di$ 9 #aedi4 ,elle adonnait son c\rage ,a faire ma9t bel ouvrage ,dessus la toile et encore a ,jo9dre la soie et or4 ,v\s d'un p>eil ex]cice ,m>iez p> artifice ,dessus la toile a ma9t tract ,l'or et la soie en p\rtract4 ,ano!r int]e/+ record ( ?is ,que5 is to be f\nd 9 a manuscript ( ! exp5ses ( ,madame ,m>gurite1 si/] ( ! ,k+ 7,francis ,i474 ,= #fj y>ds f9e ,flor5ce lace = h] coll>s4,m ,?is lace 0 probably f9e punto 9 aria work$ 9 po9ts1 z 9 ,plate #cj1 b x may1 ( c\rse1 also h be5 bobb9-made lace simil> to ! edg+ 9 ,plate #bi4 ,m ,manuscript 9 ,biblio?que ,nationale4 ,,ms4 ,,ff#b1 #aj1cid4 ,! e>lie/ example ( tela tirata "h is a piece repres5t+ ,/4 ,francis ( ,assisi & ev5ts ( 8 life1 ,plate #ai4 ,"u ! sa9t's feet is an inscription imp]fectly r5d]$ by ! pi\s work]4 ,/4 ,mi*ael is above1 & /ill high] is ! ,madonna & _m emblems or p]haps fancies ( ! work]4 ,?is lace may h be5 work$ 9 ,assisi itself 9 ! ?irte5? or f\rte5? c5tury4 ,ano!r e>ly specim5 has a man 9 arm\r ) a helmet ( ?irte5?-c5tury %ape4 ,see ,plate #bj4 ,ano!r piece1 ,plate #ba1 :i* is v f9e & 0 no d\bt work$ = a w$d+1 repres5ts a bride & bridegroom /&+ dress$ 9 sixte5?-c5tury co/ume & surr\nd$ by att5dants4 ,bel[ is a hawk+ p>ty ) dogs4 ,! infant's swaddl+ b&1 ,plate #bb1 is int]e/+1 z ^! b&s are no long] ornam5t$4 ,! specim5 ( tela tirata ,no4 #a1 9 ,plate #be1 is ( s+ul> make1 ! :ole piece to be work$ be+ prep>$ by draw+ ?reads at regul> int]vals4 ,^! same ?reads are !n d>n$ 9 ) a ne$le to =m ! patt]n4 ,9 ?is specim5 a small piece has be5 unpick$ to %[ ! way ! ?reads 7 drawn be=e beg9n+ ! "w4 ,?is me?od has1 ,i believe1 n hi!rto be5 notic$1 z ! plan ( cutt+ ?reads & leav+ ! patt]n 9 ! l95 is m usual2 b1 ( c\rse1 no cut ?reads at all rema9+ 9 ! "w r5d]$ x m ev5 & durable1 & s ju/ifi$ ! extra tr\ble4 ,no4 #b ( ,plate #be1 is a piece ( tela tirata ) punto reale simil>1 ?\gh co>s] 9 make1 to ! "w on ! ,assisi alb4 ,?ree specim5s ( sixte5?-c5tury l95 "w1 ,plate #bh1 are r$uc$ 9 size2 "o is on a huckaback ) a f9e macram fr+e4 ,! drawn "w ( ?is piece is beautifully done4 ,! clo? 9 ! c5tre is work$ 9 punto riccio & has a bord] ( punto avorio & a curi\s fr+e4 ,! ?ird is cut & work$ 9 punto riccio & reticello1 & has a bord] ( bobb9-made lace4 ,9 ,plate #bi we h two examples ( reticello1 ! l95 almo/ entirely cut away & hidd5 by ! diff]5t /it*es4 ,! punto a /uora is /ill us$ = ! c5tres1 z we h se5 9 ! e>li] laces1 & ! punto a fe/one appe>s = ! fir/ "t4 ,9 ! second example we h a curi\s comb9ation ( ?ree laces--an upp] bord] work$ almo/ exactly l ! v e>ly lace ( ,plate #g2 !n comes an ins]tion ( reticello1 & f9ally a bord] ( ,v5etian bobb9-lace 7m]letto a fuselli74 ,?is is e>ly fifte5?-c5tury "w4 ,we n[ come to ! ?ird division made 9 ne$le-po9t lace--! punto 9 aria1 :i* may be said to be ! />t+-po9t ( all subsequ5t ne$le-po9t laces4 ,no l95 or nett+ be+ us$ ! work] _h to con/ruct h] lace--9 aria--out ( no?+1 & a spl5did op5+ x gave1 z we %all n[ see1 = inv5tion & = execution4 ,?is punto 9 aria1 work$ into po9ts1 0 ext5sively us$ = p]sonal adornm5t3 ^! po9ts gave ! "n ( pizzi to lace1 a "n :i* /ill survives 9 ,italy z compreh5sive ( all lace1 z ! "n d5telle is 9 ,france4 ,! fir/ examples ,i give "h are ! two d5tat$ 7or v&yk$7 bord]s ( ,plate #ca4 ,! *alice cov]1 ,plate #cb1 is a v int]e/+ comb9ation ( reticello & punto 9 aria2 ! l9es ( ! cut-l95 f\ndation are c>ri$ across & =m a lattice beh9d ! punto 9 aria devices4 ,! beautifully work$ wav$ patt]n circl+ r\nd ! design may be int5d$ to repres5t ,/4 ,pet]'s *a9s3 ! ,sa9t /&s ) ! ,scriptures 9 "o h& & ! ,keys 9 ! o!r1 & has a w+$ *]ub on ea* side2 ! edge is ( punto 9 aria4 ,! reticello patt]n ( ,plate #cc is beautifully r5d]$ 9 punto avorio & punto 9 aria4 ,?is piece1 unlike ! specim5s giv5 be=e1 has no l95 f\ndation1 & !re=e is class$ z punto 9 aria & n z reticello or cutwork4 ,! corporal bord] ( ,plate #cd1 ( v conv5tional floral patt]n is1 ,i ?9k1 und\bt$ly ( ,g]man e>ly sev5te5?-c5tury "w4 ,! bord] ( ! ,v5etian clo? 9 ,plate #ce1 is a v f9e specim5 ( punto 9 aria4 ,! two ins]tions1 ( :i* "o is giv51 are alike4 ,!y h /range w+$ & tail$ animals alt]nat+ ) scrolls & vases4 ,! v&yk$ bord] is a wond]ful piece ( "w conta9+ altoge!r =ty-eight small figures1 &1 z is (t5 ! case 9 ,v5etian "w1 ! figures1 birds & animals h t9y black glass beads = eyes4 ,! animals h loops ( f9e buttonhole /it* to d5ote manes4 ,a v int]e/+ & beautiful piece ( punto 9 aria is ,plate #cf4 ,! design is /ill rem9isc5t ( ! ,ea/2 ! fl[+ int]lac$ fl[]-/ems1 ) animals introduc$1 h q a ,p]sian effect4 ,b ! beautiful r5d]+ ( ! p5dant fl[]s1 & ! true love knots1 z well z ! h]aldic device ( ! ,visconti 7! cr[n$ s]p5t7 m>k ! elegance & fre$om ( ! ,r5aissance4 ,x 01 no d\bt1 made 9 ,v5ice 9 ! late sixte5? c5tury4 ,! punto 9 aria trimm+ = ! neck ( an alb1 ,plate #cg1 is a v rem>kable piece1 & ! execution full ( int]e/4 ,! "w is entirely )\t f\ndation4 ,! figures are clo!d ) mantles ( v beautifully work$ network1 call$ 9 ,italy mezza m&ol9a4 ,! edges ( ! mantles are work$ 9 punto avorio4 ,realism is attempt$ by repres5t+ ! features 9 relief1 & little black beads are add$ to ! eyes4 ,a curi\s bord] ( ! ,v5etian rose-po9t is ,no4 #a1 ,plate #ch1 work$ entirely 9 punto a fe/one4 ,birds & s]p5ts occur1 & ! ?ick cordonnet :i* outl9es ! patt]n is also us$ to d5ote ! scales ( ! s]p5ts & ! fea!rs ( ! birds1 t9y black beads m>k ! eyes z 9 ,plate #cg4 ,! edg+ is ( v f9e punto avorio4 ,a specim5 ( ! s-call$ coral9e ,v5ice ne$le-po9t is also on ?is ,plate4 ,9 ,plate #ci we h a v int]e/+ specim5 ( ne$le-po9t z appli$ to p]sonal use--a lady's camisia1 or %irt1 ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,! l95 has a squ>e hole cut = ! head1 & ?is op5+ is beautifully work$ 9 punto 9 aria4 ,! sleeves are ornam5tal ) oblique b&s ( cut-"w1 & ! seams ev]y:]e work$ ) drawn /it*es & ins]tions ( punto avorio4 ,! h&wov5 l95 is 9 good condition1 al?\gh ! g>m5t mu/ h be5 mu* worn1 z ! cuffs h be5 replac$ by bobb9-made frills1 tr9e a fuselli4 ,x is d\btful :e!r ?ree hundr$ ye>s h5ce any l95 g>m5t worn at ! pres5t "t w survive4 ,f ! beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? c5tury ! fa%ion began ( work+ portions ( ! lace sep>ately1 & jo9+ !m toge!r by brides1 & modes or fill+s 7 also introduc$1 into ! patt]n4 ,lat]1 f ab\t #afcj1 ! rseau gr\nd 0 introduc$1 cov]+ ! :ole space betwe5 ! patt]ns2 ! patt]ns !mselves also *ang$1 & f be+ geometric & conv5tional became m & m reali/ic4 ,! /ately lace ( ,v5ice1 h[ev]1 may be said to h always pres]v$ its conv5tional tradition1 :e!r 9 ! heavy rose or rais$ po9t or ! delicate po9t rseau4 ,v5ice obta9$ h] pre-em95ce ( lace-mak+ 9 ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,! flat po9t is probably ! e>lie/ di/9ctive lace2 b ?is 0 soon enri*$ by "w ^u "w1 /it* ^u /it*1 :i* gave ! "n ( rose-po9t or punto 9 rilievo4 ,! *>act]i/ic ornam5t 9 ! heavy s-call$ gros po9t de ,v5ise consi/s ( conv5tional blossoms l leaves & scrolls treat$ z ?\gh c>v$ 9 ivory or bone1 & to x applies ! title ( punto tagliato a fogliami4 ,! brides are sometimes q pla91 b lat] are adorn$ ) picots4 ,we n[ come to ! p]iod :5 lace1 s long only made = *ur* purposes1 0 v ext5sively made & us$ by lay p]sons = _! p]sonal adornm5t1 & = furni%+ purposes4 ,! b$ cov] ,plate #dj 01 no d\bt1 "o ( _m made = a h\sehold ( simple ta/es2 ! co>se l95 is cut into a f9e fl[+ patt]n edg$ ) buttonhole /it*1 & ornam5t$ ) v>i\s fill+s4 ,b 9 h\ses ( great] pret5sion ! use ( ! ri*e/ rose-po9t became lavi%1 n only on ! dress ( ! mi/ress1 ! coll> ( ! ma/]1 b on table cov]s & hang+s ( e k9d4 ,examples ( ?is spl5did lace are giv5 9 ,no4 #db & foll[+ plates4 ,no4 #dd has1 p]haps1 ! f9e/ toil2 b ! design ( ,no4 #de is v beautiful4 ,no4 #df is a fl\nce = an alb ( v f9e scroll design ) brides picotes & occasional rais$ "w2 ! beauty ( ! patt]n is bett] se5 9 ! enl>gem5t1 ,plate #dg4 ,! pat5 cov]1 ,no4 #dh1 & ! enl>gem5t ( x1 ,no4 #di1 give a complete idea ( ! /yle & execution ( ?is lace4 ,! design ( ! fl\nce1 ,no4 #ea1 is ( ! /yle usually associat$ ) po9t de ,france1 ! /it*es & brides picotes are id5tical 9 workman%ip ) ! ,v5etian po9t4 ,x 0 probably made at ,al5on1 ,s$an1 or "o ( ! o!r lace-mak+ c5tres :i* 7 />t$ ^u ! importation ( ,v5etian lacework]s into ,france aft] ! middle ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,! specim5s ( ,spani% rose-po9t1 ,nos4 #ec & #ed1 %[ ! /ately & elaborate design1 r ov]load$ ) ornam5t1 :i* is *>act]i/ic ( ?is lace4 ,! ,v5etian po9t rseau 0 made f ab\t #afej 9 ,v5ice & ,burano4 ,! cap %[n 9 ,no4 #ef has a beautiful fl[+ design ( a scroll ) fl[]s & leaves1 & brides connect+ "s portions ( ! design4 ,! ma9 gr\nd is ( small me% rseau work$ ! l5g? ( ! lace1 :i* is (t5 ! case 9 ,v5etian "w1 ?\gh ,i h nev] se5 x 9 ,al5on lace1 ! rseau be+1 z f> z ,i "k1 usually work$ across ! lace by ! e>ly ,fr5* work]s4 7,lat]1 ! rseau ( ! ,al5on lace 0 work$ obliquely1 z c be se5 by exam9+ ,plate #fg1 & ! specim5s ,i h se5 ( mod]n ,al5on are also work$ 9 ?is way47 ,plates #ei & #fj %[ int]e/+ specim5s ( ?is v r>e ,v5etian lace4 ,no4 #b1 9 ! latt] plate1 is probably a specim5 work$ 9 ,france4 ,! gr\nd ( ,no4 #ei is ( brides picotes arrang$ into hexagonal me%es1 a gr\nd :i* is *iefly associat$ ) ! po9t de ,france1 & ?is specim5 0 no d\bt f ,al5on4 ,ab\t #affj important c5tres ( lace-mak+ 7 develop$ & subsidis$ 9 ,france by ! ,gov]nm5t at ,al5on1 ,p>is1 ,s$an1 & o!r places1 & ! ,fr5* ne$le-po9t !n made 0 sc>cely to be di/+ui%$ f ! ,v5etian4 ,?is 0 to be expect$1 z ! fir/ work]s ( lace ( ?is k9d 9 ,france 7 import$ f ,v5ice4 ,9 a lett] to ,colb]t1 ! m9i/] ( ,l\is ,,xiv41 dat$ #affe1 ,ca!r9e de ,m>cq writes1 ,i am />t+ = ,al5on ) f\r ,v5etian lace work]s4,n ,n ,biblio?que ,nationale1 ,lettres ,colb]t1 vol4 #acb1 fo4 #ad bis4 ,z our ,k+ ,*>les ,,ii4 reviv$ 8 fa!r's edict aga9/ =eign lace at ab\t ! same "t 7#affb71 x w\ld almo/ seem a conc]t$ action to *eck ! ,italian & ,flemi% sup]iority 9 ! fabrication ( ! f9e/ lace1 :e!r ne$le- or bobb9-made4 ,b al?\gh ! ,fr5* 7 successful 9 "p 9 rivall+ ! ,v5etian ne$le-po9t1 ! f9e/ bobb9-lace ( ,fl&]s 0 nev] approa*$ by ! ,engli% work]s1 & n[1 ( c\rse1 c nev] be equall$1 z ! secret ( ! ?read us$ 9 ! f9e/ laces1 su* z ,anglet]re1 ,b9*e1 etc41 is lo/4 ,no?+ 0 too ambiti\s = ! ,v5etian or ,fr5* design]s ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,coats ( arms "u canopies1 scriptural or classical figures1 wrea?s & vases ( fl[]s1 7 frequ5tly work$ into ! same design = a piece ( lace4 ,! subsequ5t *anges ( design :i* took place 9 ! ,al5on lace are mo/ int]e/+ to note1 ! patt]ns gradually los+ _! ,v5etian "*4 ,9 ,no4 #fa vases & pots ( fl[]s are introduc$1 & ! floral patt]ns ( ! specim5s :i* foll[ become m & m reali/ic 9 draw+4 ,t[>ds ! end ( ! reign ( ,l\is ,,xvi4 enorm\s quantities ( lace 7 requir$ = ! new fa%ion ( frills & fl\nces1 & ! *ange 9 design is mu* m>k$ by ! adoption ( bord]s ( v light effect1 ! rseau gr\nd be+ spott$ ) little sprigs1 sl5d] rib& devices1 & dots or pois1 :5ce ! t]m sem de l>mes4 7,see ,plate #ff47 ,9 ! num]\s specim5s %[n1 ! *ang+ fa%ion c be m>k$1 until 9 ,plates #fd to #fg ! ,v5etian "* ( ! designs ( ,al5on ne$le-po9t has q disappe>$4 ,! patt]ns are practically design$ = bord]s only2 & ! rseau is1 z ,i h said1 spott$ ) t9y sprigs1 or dots4 ,! expression sem de l>mes is said to h aris5 9 allusion to ! mis=tunes ( ,que5 ,m>ie ,anto9ette1 by :om mu* lace ( ?is /yle 0 worn4 ,9 ne$le-po9t made at ,arg5tan we f9d a /yle & design su* z we %\ld expect f its close neighb\rhood to ,al5on4 ,! sole peculi>ity ( ! ,arg5tan work]s 0 t1 n cont5t ) ! almo/ incr$ible toil involv$ 9 ! lace ( ,al5on1 !y actually work$ ! :ole rseau ( _! lace ov] 9 buttonhole /it*1 ?us mak+ ^? compactly /it*$ hexagonal me%es :i* are di/9ctive ( ?is wond]ful fabric4 ,! ,arg5tan rseau 0 sometimes introduc$ into lace made at ,al5on & else:]e4 ,! specim5s1 ,nos4 #fh & #fi1 are repres5tative ( ?is r>e lace4 ,! two specim5s--"o ( silk & "o ( l95 ?read1 ,nos4 #a to #b1 ,plate #gj--;,i consid] to be ,portuguese1 f ! curi\s ?\gh r h&some & effective jumble ( design :i* is (t5 f\nd 9 ,spani% & ,portuguese "w4 ,! ,brussels ne$le-po9t ( ,no4 #c1 ,plate #gj1 & ,plate #ga & ,plate #gb1 mu/ seem poor & ?9 :5 comp>$ to ! prec$+ laces4 ,b x is v beautiful 9 its own delicate /yle1 & has be5 call$ ! lacie/ ( laces4 ,! rseau is v fragile1 h5ce ! "n sometimes giv5 ( po9t de gaze4 ,! designs %[n h n ! complete realism aim$ at 9 ! ,brussels lace ( ! pres5t day1 b h a *>m ( _! own :i* ,i confess attracts me m ?an all ! brilliant improvem5ts ( ! la/ sixty ye>s4 ,! two specim5s ( d>n$ "w on bobb9 net1 ,plates #gc & #gd1 especially ! latt]1 are rem>kable = ! beauty & v>iety ( ! "w4 ,plate #ge & ,plate #gf h specim5s ( ! beautiful & intricate "w call$ ,tnd] musl9 lace made 9 ,d5m>k 9 ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,! foll[+1 ,plate #gg1 is lace ( ! same k9d b made 9 ,s\? ,g]many4 ,i obta9$ ^! pieces 9 ,leipzig =ty ye>s ago4 ,numb] #b1 9 ,plate #gf1 has a design & fill+s :i* almo/ recall ^? 9 ! f9e/ ,al5on laces ( ! late sev5te5? c5tury4 ,plate #gh has f\r specim5s ( eighte5?-c5tury ,dut* l95 lace made = caps2 x is call$ ,g\da lace2 ! fill+s are v well done4 ,9 ! ,manila fibre lace1 ,plate #gi1 ,no4 #a1 ! gr\nd is entirely work$ ov] by ! ne$le into small squ>es1 giv+ ! appe>ance ( network4 ,?is is done 9 ! same way z ! e>li] tela tirata1 ! ?reads drawn toge!r & sewn ) wond]ful regul>ity1 )\t any ?read be+ cut4 ,! two specim5s ( ne$le-po9t1 ,plate #gi1 ,nos4 #b & #c1 made entirely ( human hair1 are r difficult to r5d] 9 a photograph4 ,!y are evid5tly copi$ f ,v5etian patt]ns1 & ! v>i\s %ades ( hair us$ h a v pretty effect1 :ile ! execution ( su* f9e "w 9 s fragile a mat]ial mu/ h dem&$ extreme skill & deftness ( h&4 ,!y 7 made ab\t #ahjj1 at ! ,b> ,conv5t1 ,york4 ,a v int]e/+ piece ( old ,engli% ne$le-po9t "w is ,no4 #hj1 a cap ( ,holy1 or ,hollie1 "w4 ,a close rseau is work$ by us+ a /it* v simil> to buttonhole /it*1 & ! effect is ( a texture v l ! cambric x adorns4 ,! patt]n is made by miss+ /it*es1 =m+ small holes4 ,hollie lace 0 *iefly us$ to decorate infants' caps1 etc41 = baptism1 & ! pot ) fl[]1 rem9isc5t ( ! ,annunciation1 ! ,holy ,dove1 etc41 7 devices frequ5tly introduc$ into ! patt]ns4 ,coll>s ( ?is "w are m5tion$ 9 ,que5 ,m>y ,/u>t's inv5tories4 ,numb] #b1 ,plate #hj1 is a specim5 ( ,lim]ick run lace4 ,?ree pieces ( ,iri% ne$le-lace1 ,nos4 #a & #b ( ,plate #ha1 are praisewor?y z v e>ly specim5s ( ?is indu/ry4 ,! designs are nondescript1 b _m ( ! /it*es are well execut$4 ,a bobb9-made tape is introduc$ 9 ,no4 #a4 ,no4 #c is ! s-call$ ,c>rickmacross lace2 a musl9 & ma*9e net f\ndation is neatly outl9$ by f9e :ipp$ /it*es2 & buttonhole-/it* brides picotes are us$ to jo9 ! patt]ns aft] ! backgr\nd is cut away4 ,?is lace 0 fir/ made aft] ! fam9e ( #ahdf4 ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,! e>lie/ bobb9 lace 0 made by us+ ! same ?reads = ! :ole ( ! lace1 ?us1 :5 ! patt]n _h be5 prick$ out & ! requisite numb] ( bobb9s *>g$ ) ?read1 ! plait+ & twi/+ ! ?reads into lace 0 begun4 ,! />like effect 9 ! old ,malta laces 0 v simply made by tak+ f\rte5 bobb9s to "w a /rip ( ! requir$ l5g?2 ?is 0 !n jo9$ up z requir$ into a patt]n ( m or less regul> & />like =m1 p>tly1 no d\bt1 to imitate ! old] geometric designs4 ,! same bobb9s 7 us$ ?r\gh\t4 ,see ,plate #hc4 ,! same /yle ( mak+ is m beautifully c>ri$ out 9 ! two patt]ns ( ,plate #hd4 ,! lace 9 ,no4 #a is un=tunately v mu* worn1 b ! way ! bobb9-made /rip is arrang$ to make fl[]like =ms is v +5i\s2 ! gr\nd is completely cov]$ & yet no?+ is awkw>d or cr[d$4 ,no4 #b is also a v f9e example ( ?is simple bobb9 "w4 ,i consid] bo? to be e>ly ,v5etian4 ,numb] #a ( ,plate #he is a typical patt]n ( ! lace :i*1 orig9ally no d\bt inspir$ by ! ,ea/ has become univ]sal "u ! "n ( peasant lace4 ,we f9d x 9 ,russia1 ,hung>y1 ,dalmatia1 ,spa91 ,sicily1 ,s>d9ia1 9 fact :]ev] lace 0 made at all1 ?is patt]n ) slight v>iations is supreme4 ,ceylon & ,india produce v simil> lace1 z also does ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,i h !re=e made no special ref]5ce to ^! peasant laces1 z al?\gh q satisfactory f ! po9t ( view ( utility1 !y are only o!rwise int]e/+ z ! product ( an indu/ry mu* to be enc\rag$4 ,numb]s #b1 #c & #d1 on ,plate #he1 may be consid]$ z %[+ a transition /ate1 z 9 all ?ree !re is an attempt to add a backgr\nd to ! toile or tapelike patt]n4 ,numb] #d is a specim5 ( old ,maltese lace n[ no long] made4 ,numb] #a 9 ,plate #hf is ( reticello patt]n & a v successful imitation ( ! ne$le-po9t l95 lace4 ,numb] #b is a f9e example ( ! same /yle work$ into po9ts or pizzi1 & is probably ,v5etian4 ,numb]s #c1 #d & #e1 are examples ( ,g5oese plait$ lace4 ,numb] #e is especially notable z recall+ ! ,ea/]n tradition4 ,plate #hg %[s two specim5s ( ,g5oese lace4 ,no4 #b is :at is sometimes call$ coll> lace1 & sometimes ,v&yke lace1 f ! v g5]al use ( x 9 portraits by t great pa9t]4 ,no4 #a is ,g5oese fr+$ lace4 ,9 bo? ! />like gr\ps ( little gra9s ( corn1 z !y are call$1 are *>act]i/ic ( ,g5oese lace1 z !y are n[ consid]$ to be ( ,maltese4 ,b ! ,g5oese patt]ns 7 only introduc$ into ,malta & ,gozo ab\t sixty or sev5ty ye>s ago4 ,"o c b be glad ( ! success ( an indu/ry s pr(itable to ! indu/ri\s peasantry ( ^? isl&s1 b x is impossible n to regret ! total disappe>ance ( ! old /yle ( lace-mak+4 ,! old patt]ns are n 9 dem& = ! mod]n m>ket1 :i* is *iefly ,fr5*1 & ! lace is pr9cipally made ) silk import$ f ,france4 ,i f9d t x is (t5 suppos$ t no specim5s exi/ ( anci5t ,maltese lace4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 well kn[n !re t lace 0 made 9 ,malta & ,gozo at all ev5ts z e>ly z ab\t #afdj4 ,! e>ly fl\nce 7,plate #hj7 0 b\ght 9 ,valetta m ?an fifty ye>s ago1 & inquiries made conv9ce me t x 0 made1 z my ,maltese in=mant express$ x1 be=e ! "t ( ,lasc>is4 ,! ,maltese (t5 use ! expression "t ( ,lasc>is or ( ,c>afa1 ,manoel1 etc41 to date any?+4 ,^! 7 ! names ( diff]5t ,gr& ,ma/]s be=e ! isl&]s invit$ ,engli% occupation 9 #ahjj4 ,!re is no d\bt t ! di/urbance caus$ by ! ,fr5* occupation affect$ lace-mak+ s t x fell into abeyance1 b be=e t "t great quantities ( ^! simple1 /rong & useful laces 7 made1 pr9cipally1 ( c\rse = *ur* use4 ,! n>r[] edg+s 7,plate #ih7 7 us$ = ! f9e :ite lawn head-dresses worn ) ! beautiful national gala dresses1 n[ only pres]v$ by ! great ,maltese families z relics ( ! pa/4 ,numb] #a1 ,plate #hh1 is a v curi\s e>ly patt]n call$ gotico 9 ,italy4 ,numb]s #b & #c are ,sicilian peasant laces4 ,numb] #d1 ,tuscan peasant lace call$ pi$i di gall9i 7f[ls' feet74 ,numb] #e is a ,tuscan peasant lace call$ zeccatello4 ,plate #hi illu/rates six peasant laces f ,russia1 ,madeira1 ,portugal1 ,ceylon1 & ,le ,puy1 made be=e #ahej4 ,9 ! ,g5oese laces 9 ,plates #ij & #ia we h examples ( :at may be call$ ! second mann] ( bobb9 lace4 ,! patt]ns ( conv5tional sprays & fl[]s are made on ! pill[ sep>ately1 & aft]w>ds jo9$ by brides picotes1 also bobb9-made4 ,9 ! lace made 9 ?is second mann]1 9 :i* _m laces 7 made at successive p]iods 9 ,milan1 ,g5oa1 ,brussels & ,honiton1 ! ?reads =m+ ! connect+ brides1 & lat] ! rseau1 c be detect$ by look+ on ! rev]se ( ! lace1 z !y are se5 pass+ beh9d ! patt]ns4 ,an example ( ?is c>ry+ ?reads across is %[n 9 ! ,honiton lace1 ,plate #aah4 ,plate #ib repres5ts "o ( ! f9e/ examples ,i h se5 ( ,g5oese bobb9 lace1 tr9e a fuselli4 ,! design is ( gracefully arrang$ scrolls & fl[]s1 & includes five birds :i* are introduc$ 9 ! mo/ spirit$ mann]4 ,! sev]al tapey %apes1 made sep>ately & jo9$ by brides1 =m ! complete design or patt]n1 ! fill+s betwe5 !m are v good1 & include ! />like "w *>act]i/ic ( ,g5oa4 ,?is illu/ration is on a r$uc$ scale 9 ord] to %[ ! patt]n ( ! lace4 ,plate #ic repres5ts ! exact size ( ! same lace4 ,plate #id is a fl\nce ( ,milanese bobb9 lace1 tr9e a fuselli4 ,! patt]n is ( scrolls & fl[]s1 a h]aldic cr[n$ eagle & small birds1 ) v>i\s fill+s 9 ! spaces enclos$4 ,a v /rong rseau connects ! :ole4 ,plate #ie1 a fl\nce ( ! same lace1 has a v beautiful fl[+ design ( scrolls1 ) a backgr\nd ( ! *>act]i/ic rseau ( ,milanese "w4 ,! ,milanese alb fl\nce 7,plate #if7 is a v f9e piece ( mu* lat] date4 ,! spaces enclos$ by ! toil or tapey p>ts are fill$ by bobb9-made fill+s or j\rs1 ( v>i\s designs1 a v /rong & ev5ly made rseau connects ! :ole4 ,! two specim5s ( ,italian lace1 ,plate #ig1 are ( v elegant design2 !y also h ! fond *ant patt]n ( rseau4 ,?is /yle ( lace 0 made bo? 9 ,nor? & ,s\? ,italy up to sixty or sev5ty ye>s ago1 b co>s] ?read 0 !n introduc$ ) disa/r\s effect4 ,9 ! n>r[ ,maltese lace ( ,plate #ih we h 9 ,no4 #a ! rseau call$ m>iage2 ?is lace1 & ,nos4 #b & #c1 7 made 9 ,malta ab\t #aghj4 ,turn+ n[ to ! bobb9-made lace ( ,fl&]s1 ,i beg9 ) ,no4 #a on ,plate #ii1 :i* has no less ?an ?ree *>act]i/ic l5g?s jo9$ to =m "o bord]4 ,! /raight edge1 ! r abrupt design1 & ! rseau c9q tr\s1 indicate a ,flemi% make ( lace4 ,! patt]n ,no4 #b has ! cle> :it] ?read outl9e4 ,?is lace is sometimes call$ ,trolle ,kant4 ,! cap1 ,plate #ajj1 is ( lat] date2 ! rseau c9q tr\s1 work$ ) a v op5$ out effect1 c be obs]v$ 9 ! fill+s4 ,! e>ly ,me*l9 lace resembles 9 design ! po9t d',anglet]re1 &1 inde$1 also ! ,al5on lace ( ! same date4 ,x is mo/ int]e/+ to comp>e1 say1 ! ,me*l91 ,plate #aja1 ) ! d',anglet]re1 ,plate #ajd1 & ! ,v5ise rseau ( ,plate #eg4 ,yet ! mak+s ( ! ?ree laces are absolutely diff]5t--! ,v5ice entirely by ne$le2 ! ,anglet]re is made 9 two diff]5t /ages ( bobb9 "w2 ! ,me*l91 z is always ! case1 0 made 9 ! ?ird mann]1 ! ?reads orig9ally />t$ on ! bobb9s c>ry+ ! "w to a f9i%1 & +5i\sly suffic+ = toil1 rseau1 & fill+s4 ,lat]1 ,me*l91 = reasons already /at$1 became a m]e bord]1 z %[n 9 ,plate #ajb4 ,x is no long] made4 ,?is is also ! case ) ,b9*e lace 7,plate #ajc74 ,a v beautiful fond de neige1 us$ sometimes z a gr\nd & sometimes z a fill+ or j\rs1 di/+ui%es ?is lace4 ,! "w is v f9e & close1 ! edge is usually /raight4 ,x is sometimes call$ fausses ,val5ci5nes4 ,brussels gives its "n to a v>iety ( beautiful laces4 ,! mo/ r5[n$ is ! po9t d',anglet]re1 made 9 great quantities dur+ ! lat] "p ( ! sev5te5? c5tury = ! ,engli% m>ket4 ,! designs1 z on ,plate #ajd1 recall ^? ( ! ,v5ise rseau & ( ,al5on ( ! same p]iod2 ! beautiful fl[+ g>l&s1 ! wav$ edge ) v>i$ fill+s1 ! brides picotes =m+ ! hexagonal rseau1 w be> comp>ison ) ! ,v5ice lace ( ,plate #eg1 & ! ,al5on ( ,plate #fc4 ,?is truly wond]ful po9t d',anglet]re has a v f9e toil2 ! fl[]s & scrolls 7 fir/ made on ! pill[ & !n jo9$ by ! rseau 7vrai ,bruxelles71 long us$ = ! highe/ class ( all ,brussels bobb9-made laces4 ,lace ( ?is f95ess is no long] made s9ce ! f9e h&spun ?read _c be obta9$4 ,brussels lace foll[$ ! fa%ion :i*1 z we h se51 obta9$ 9 ,france4 ,9 ! late eighte5? c5tury only a bord] 0 necess>y1 z lace 0 worn 9 a pr(usion ( fl\nces & frills2 & ,plate #ajf %[s a bord] v simil> 9 design to ! ,al5on ( ! same date4 ,! delicate fl[]s & leaves are jo9$ by ! f9e rseau m5tion$ above--namely ,brussels vrai rseau1 a title employ$ to di/+ui% x f ma*9e-made net4 ,?is la/ 0 introduc$ dur+ ! fir/ qu>t] ( ! n9ete5? c5tury1 & soon gave a diff]5t "* to ,brussels lace1 :5 ! fl[]s made on ! pill[ 7 sewn 7appliqu7 to a simple net made sometimes by h&1 b m (t5 by ma*9e4 ,9 ! ,antw]p lace sc>f1 ,no4 #a1 ,plate #ajg1 ! fond *ant or po9t de ,p>is rseau is us$1 & "h we h an example ( ,pott5 ,kant1 or pot lace1 s-call$ because 9 e>ly times ! subject ( ! ,annunciation1 ) ! pots ( lilies usually add$1 0 introduc$ into ! designs = x4 ,! indication ( fl[]-pots c]ta9ly occurs 9 _m pieces1 ?\gh n 9 m9e1 & no piece exi/s1 z f> z ,i "k1 ) figures4 ,! cap ( ,lille lace1 ,no4 #b1 ,plate #ajg1 has ! simple twi/$ ?read rseau *>act]i/ic ( ?is & ( ,arras lace4 ,x is n to be di/+ui%$ f ! rseau (t5 us$ 9 ,buck+ham lace4 ,we mu/ aga9 notice h[ simil> ! design 9 ! f9e old ,val5ci5nes ( ,plate #ajh is to t ( ,al5on ne$le-po9t ( ! same date4 ,! rseau is closely plait$1 & ! toil ( ! beautiful patt]ns compact & cle> 9 def9ition4 ,no outl9e or cordonnet is us$ 9 ,val5ci5nes lace4 ,! e>ly lace has :at is call$ ! r\nd rseau1 ! lat] ,val5ci5nes made at ,yprs has a squ>e rseau 7,plate #aji74 ,?is latt] lace is /ill made1 b has n ! *>m ( ! eighte5?-c5tury lace4 ,! lace 7,plate #aaj7 0 probably made 9 ,p>is4 ,x is v curi\s1 ) h]aldic device ( an eagle ) a %ield2 dogs also1 & /ags1 are introduc$4 ,x may h be5 made = a w$d+ ab\t #afij4 ,?is lace is (t5 describ$ 9 ! inv5tories ( old families 9 ,france z d5telle de *asse4 ,! ,blonde lace 7,plate #aaa7 0 made 9 ,*antilly = a w$d+ 9 #ahbj4 ,plate #aab gives ?ree specim5s ( bobb9-made lace1 ) ! s-call$ maglia di ,spagna1 or ,spani% me%4 ,no4 #a is ( l95 ?read1 ) a co>s] ?read introduc$2 b "o %\ld rem>k t ?is ?read is n us$ to outl9e ! patt]n z 9 ,flemi% lace4 ,i h n met ?is rseau 9 any ,flemi% lace4 ,nos4 #b & #c are bobb9-made silk lace1 & 7 ruffles = a ,c\rt dress-coat4 ,! black mantilla1 ,plate #aac1 has ! fond *ant rseau us$ z a fill+1 &1 al?\gh b\ght 9 ,madrid 9 #ahdj1 x may h be5 made 9 ,france4 ,! difficulty ( work+ ! mat]ials ( gold & silv] lace is s great t absolute regul>ity ( ei!r patt]n or rseau is impossible4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 9 my op9ion1 only r5d]s ^! r>e laces m int]e/+4 ,bo? metals are us$ 9 ! *>act]i/ic specim5 ( sixte5?-c5tury ,spani% lace1 ,no4 #a 9 ,plate #aad4 ,numb] #b is a silv] sev5te5?-c5tury lace f ,g5oa1 ! edge is a %ell patt]n1 & sev]al ?icknesses ( ! metal-cov]$ silk ?read are us$4 ,plate #aae has f\r patt]ns ( sev5te5?-c5tury gold & silv] lace made 9 ,italy1 probably at ,lucca4 ,! ,brussels lappet1 made 9 #ahdi1 ,plate #aaf1 0 !n consid]$ "o ( ! f9e/ ev] made1 ! patt]n is pretty & reali/ic1 & =e%ad[s ! /yle s9ce preval5t4 ,! ,b$=d%ire lappet1 on ! same plate1 is f> inf]ior 9 execution1 b 0 made by a cottag] at ab\t ! same "t & has done good s]vice4 ,two patt]ns ( ,buck+ham%ire lace1 ,plate #aag1 made ab\t #agij1 %[ m ev5 workman%ip ?an is g5]ally se5 9 ?is lace4 ,no4 #b has a lik5ess to ! ,me*l9 & ,lille lace ( ! same date2 ,no4 #a is m l ! ,flemi% ,trolle ,kant1 & 01 9 fact1 call$ ,trolly lace4 ,x w be obs]v$ t ! fill+s h ! six-po9t$ />1 or fond *ant rseau1 s preval5t 9 pill[ lace4 ,!re is a tradition t ! art ( bobb9-made lace 0 import$ into ,devon%ire by emigrants f ! ,ne!rl&s1 fly+ f ! tyranny ( ! ,duke ( ,alva4 ,mr4 ,segu91 9 8 le>n$ book1 cont5ds t ! tr\bles 9 ,fl&]s _h completely de/roy$ ! lace indu/ry be=e ,philip ,,ii4 ( ,spa9 s5t ! notori\s ,duke ( ,alva !re4 ,i believe1 h[ev]1 bo? t lace-mak+ exi/$ be=e t "t 9 ,engl&1 & t ! emigration _h a b5eficial effect on all ,engli% indu/ry1 al?\gh n an initial "o4 ,i h giv5 bo? ! "r & wrong side ( ! ,honiton lace cap-bord] 9 ,plate #aah1 to %[ ! ?reads ( ! connect+ rseau1 pass+ beh9d ! patt]ns1 ! ?read mak+ ! brides picotes also passes 9 ! same mann]4 ,plate #aai %[s a rem>kably f9e specim5 ( ,honiton bobb9 lace4 ,! fl[]s are made sep>ately 9 ?is specim51 & are aft]w>ds jo9$ by twi/$ brides claires made ) a ne$le4 ,! design is ( birds1 butt]flies1 & ! rose1 %amrock1 & ?i/le4 ,x 01 p]haps1 made to commemorate ! ,union4 ,plate #abj is ( ,honiton sprays appli$ to ma*9e-made net4 ,space does n admit ( any attempt to give a complete ,bibliography4 ,i f9d t a m]e li/ ( books t ,i h consult$ at diff]5t times w\ld be too long4 ,i w !re=e only m5tion t ! works ( ! foll[+ au?ors w\ld be v valuable to ^? int5d+ to pursue ?is subject4 ,a fairly complete li/ ( ,italian & ,g]man patt]n-books w be f\nd 9 ,mrs4 ,bury ,pallis]'s ,hi/ory ( ,lace4 ,& ! works ( ,mr4 ,alan ,cole1 ,dr4 ,franz ,bock1 ,fa!r ,braun1 ,s4,j41 ,dr4 ,moritz ,dreg] & ,dr4 ,ilg ( ,vi5na1 ,dr4 ,daniel ,rock1 ,mons4 ,segu91 & ,mr4 ,v]haag5 h all be5 especially useful2 & :ile prep>+ ?is = ! press ,i h se5 ) great delight ! spl5did book ( illu/rations ( ,italian ne$le lace compil$ by ,signora ,elisa ,ricci4 ,9 conclud+ ^! rem>ks1 ,i mu/ say t ,i owe ! fir/ idea ( writ+ on ?is subject to my le>n$ & accompli%$ husb&1 ,mr4 ,john ,hung]=d ,poll54 ,mu* in=mation 0 giv5 me 9 long bygone days by ,dr4 ,daniel ,rock1 & by ano!r old fri5d1 ,mrs4 ,bury ,pallis]1 :o gave me "o ( my fir/ specim5s 9 #ahfb4 ,at ! pres5t "t ,i owe _m ?anks = advice & sup]vision to ,mr4 ,alan ,cole1 ^: k ( lace is unsurpass$4 ,,plates ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,i4 ,,! ,,alb1 ,,pres]v$ ,,at ,,assisi1 ,,said ,,to ,,h ,,be5 ,,worn ,,by ,,/4 ,,francis ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,ii4 ,,! ,,alb ,,:i* ,,is ,,said ,,to ,,h ,,be5 ,,worn ,,by ,,pope ,,boniface1 ,a4,d4 #abih ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,iii4 7#a7 ,,detail ,,( ,,! ,,alb ,,( ,,pope ,,boniface ,,viii4 7#b7 ,,detail ,,( ,,! ,,assisi ,,alb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,iv4 ,,?ree ,,pieces ,,( ,,ne$lework ,,f ,,egypto-,,roman ,,or ,,coptic ,,tombs ,,( ,,! ,,second ,,& ,,?ird ,,c5turies ,"o is "p ( a circul> panel or r\ndel1 & ! o!r two are p>ts ( girdles4 ,! gammadion or symbol ( ! cross c be trac$ 9 all ?ree3 & ! polygonal "* ( ! design is simil> to t ( ! ,assisi alb ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,v4 7#a7 ,a ,,piece ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace4 7#b7 ,,d>n$ ,,"w ,,) ,,:ite ,,l95 ,,?read4 7#c7 ,,portion ,,( ,a ,,mummy ,,clo? ,no4 #a is a piece ( bobb9-made lace1 f\nd 9 ! ,coptic tombs 9 #aijc1 & n[ 9 ! ,cluny ,museum 9 ,p>is4 ,bobb9s 7 f\nd at ! same "t4 ,i d n ?9k ?is fabric 0 made on a lace pill[1 b t a sort ( frame ) pegs 0 us$ to keep ! bobb9s sep>ate ,no4 #b is d>n$ "w ) l95 :ite ?read1 v simil> to ! ,italian t[el ,no4 #a 9 ,plate ,,xxviii42 ! backgr\nd is aft]w>ds d>n$ 9 ) col\r$ wool4 ,?is is also f a ,coptic tomb ( ! ?ird c5tury ,no4 #c is a portion ( a mummy clo? ( ! ,eighte5? ,dyna/y1 #agjj ,b4,c4 ,! l95 is v /rong & ( a wiry nature ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,vi4 ,,two ,,examples ,,( ,,italian ,,tela ,,tirata ,,& ,,punto ,,reale ,*os5 z %[+ simil>ity to ! "w ( ! ,assisi alb4 ,toge!r #ac ft4 #g 94 long ,italian4 #af? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,vii4 ,,an ,,example ,,( ,,e>ly ,,lacis ,,or ,,sfilatura ,*os5 z %[+ simil>ity to ! "w ( ! alb ( ,pope ,boniface4 ,! squ>e me% nett+ has c5tres work$ 9 matt+ /it*1 punto a /uora2 ?reads radiate f ^! c5tres & d>n+ /it* & punto di treccia are bo? us$ to =m v>i\s patt]ns1 "s cruci=m #g ft4 #i 94 #aj 94 ,sicilian1 #ae? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,viii4 ,,sev5 ,,enl>g$ ,,/it*es ,,us$ ,,9 ,,lacis ,,& ,,l95 ,,lace ,no4 #a4 ,e>ly lacis "w1 %[+ ! punto a /uora & punto di treccia ,no4 #b4 ,lacis ) squ>e knott$ me% & patt]n d>n$ ) punto a tela4 ,9 ?is specim5 gold ?read has be5 run r\nd ! patt]n ,no4 #c4 ,lacis ) a twi/$ me%1 d>n$ ) punto a ramm5do2 ?is /yle is call$ ,buratto 9 ,italy ,no4 #d4 ,tela tirata4 ,! ?reads are only p>tly drawn1 & ! patt]n left 9 ! l951 "s ?reads be+ cut ,no4 #e4 ,tela tirata4 ,9 ?is /yle "s ?reads ( bo? w>p & wo( 9 ! :ole piece ( l95 are drawn3 ! miss+ ?reads ( ! patt]n are !n d>n$ 9 aga92 ! backgr\nd is !n sewn ov] z 9 ! o!r /yle4 ,no ?reads at all are cut1 :i* makes x m ev5 & durable ,no4 #f4 ,punto avorio4 ,! ne$le-made knots make a v ev5 surface resembl+ ivory ,no4 #g4 ,engli% ne$le-po9t1 call$ ,hollie or ,holy ,"w1 a /it* :i* resembles ! ,al5on rseau 9 ! work+1 z aft] complet+ a r[ ! ?read is pass$ back s z always to beg9 at ! same po9t ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,ix4 ,,five ,,enl>g$ ,,v>ieties ,,( ,r,,seaux ,no4 #a4 ,small & l>ge rseaux ( ,po9t d',al5on ,no4 #b4 ,po9t de ,v5ise rseau ,no4 #c4 ,po9t d',arg5tan4 ,no4 #d4 ,brussels ne$le-made rseau ,no4 #e4 ,brussels bobb9-made rseau ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,x4 ,,sev5 ,,enl>g$ ,,v>ieties ,,( ,r,,seaux ,no4 #a4 ,bobb9-made ,maglia di ,spagna ,no4 #b4 ,bobb9-made ,fond *ant or ,po9t de ,p>is ,no4 #c4 ,r\nd me% bobb9-made ,val5ci5nes ,no4 #d4 ,bobb9-made ,me*l9 ,no4 #e4 ,c9q tr\s rseau ,no4 #f4 ,bobb9-made squ>e me% ,val5ci5nes ,no4 #g4 ,lille1 ,arras1 or ,buck+ham rseau ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xi4 ,,bord] ,,( ,,lacis ,,or ,,d>n$ ,,squ>e ,,me% ,,net4 ,,punto ,a ,,tela ,,or ,,l95-,,/it* ,) religi\s inscriptions3 a fanciful peacock & ! lett]s ,i4,h4,s4 surr\nd$ by a glory ( flames & by little angul> angels #d ft4 #aj 94 #b ft4 #aj 94 ,italian1 #ae? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xii4 ,,bord] ,,( ,,squ>e ,,me% ,,lacis ,int5d$ probably = an alt>-clo? ) a design ( ornam5tal hexagonal comp>tm5ts work$ 9 l95 /it*1 9 ea* ( :i* are v>i\s devices1 ,i4,h4,s4 9 a he>t-%ape above two h]aldic lions1 else:]e a /ag1 pairs ( birds1 symmetrical devices ( leaf & blossom1 etc4 #f ft4 #aj 94 ,fr5*1 #ae? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xiii4 ,,two ,,examples ,,( ,,lacis ,,"w ,no4 #a4 ,lacis ) gammadion1 or e>ly ,*ri/ian symbol4 #d ft4 ,no4 #b4 ,lacis cov]1 conta9+ #ci squ>es ( diff]5t patt]ns d>n$ ) punto a tela or l95 /it*4 ,! bord] is ( bobb9-made lace4 #b ft4 #a 94 #ba 94 ,italian1 #ae? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xiv4 ,,"p ,,( ,a ,,quilt ,made ( squ>es ( lacis "w alt]nat+ ) oblongs ( l95 9 :i* are squ>es work$ 9 ne$le-po9t call$ reticello or cut-"w4 #c ft4 #h 94 #b ft4 #d 94 ,italian1 #ae? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xv4 ,,lacis ,,table-,,cov] ,( squ>e me% net work$ 9 l95 /it* ) bold & graceful scrolls1 leaves1 etc41 amid/ :i* are c>t\*es ( foliat$ %ields be>+ a h]aldic lion 9 ! c5tre4 ,! patt]n is outl9$ & enri*$ ) gold ?read1 & ! c>t\*es h a v>iety ( /it*es4 ,x has a bobb9-made v&yke edg+ ( lace 7m]letti a fuselli7 ) gold ?read introduc$ into x4 #e ft4 #f 94 #bb 94 ,italian1 #af? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xvi4 7#a7 ,,v&yke ,,bord] ,,( ,,lacis4 7#b7 ,,"p ,,( ,a ,,quilt ,,( ,,squ>es ,,( ,,lacis ,no4 #a4 ,v&yke bord] ( lacis knott$ squ>e me% net d>n$ 9 l95 /it* ) repeat$ l>ge & small blossoms2 ! l>g] ones resemble ,tudor roses4 #d ft4 ,engli%1 #af? c5tury ,no4 #b4 ,"p ( a quilt ( squ>es ( lacis1 ! "o %[n has a patt]n ( a v9e3 alt]nat+ ) rectangles ( l95 decorat$ ) small cut-"w4 #c ft4 #c 94 #b ft4 ,g]man1 #af? c5tury ,! patt]n 9 bo? pieces is outl9$ & p>tly work$ ) punto riccio ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xvii4 ,,bord] ,,( ,,lacis ,,) ,,! ,,twi/$ ,,me% ,,call$ ,,buratto ,! design is work$ 9 punto a ramm5do ) num]\s arm$ m5 & animals4 #e ft4 #i 94 ,italian1 #ae? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xviii4 ,,two ,,bord]s ,,( ,,lacis ,,call$ ,,buratto ,! d>n+ or punto a ramm5do ( ! edge patt]n is 9 ea* case work$ ! rev]se way to t employ$ = ! ma9 design4 ,toge!r #d ft4 #g 94 ,italian1 #af? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,xix4 ,,b& ,,( ,,tela ,,tirata ,,or ,,drawn ,,"w ,! patt]n left 9 ! l95 repres5ts a v>iety ( sacr$ & o!r subjects4 ,a k+ & a que5 betwe5 :om is an angel3 ,/4 ,mi*ael engag+ ,satan3 ,/4 ,rafael hold+ ,tobit by ! h&1 etc4 ,! photograph %[s a portion1 repres5t+ ,/4 ,francis receiv+ ! ,/igmata2 bel[ are ! words3 ,s4 ,francisca4 ora pr41 above to 8 left a *ur* #f ft4 #g 94 #ab 94 ,italian1 e>ly #ad? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xx4 ,,"p ,,( ,a ,,cov] ,,( ,,tela ,,tirata ,,or ,,drawn ,,"w ,! patt]n left 9 ! l95 includes a man 9 arm\r1 ab\t to slay a curi\s bea/2 else:]e are ar*aic birds4 #c ft4 #b 94 #ba 94 ,italian1 e>ly #ad? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxi4 ,,b& ,,or ,,fl\nce ,,( ,,tela ,,tirata ,,or ,,drawn ,,"w ,! patt]n includes v>i\s figures1 a w$d+-p>ty above two lions flank+ a fl[]-pot3 a hawk+-p>ty bel[ #f ft4 #a 94 #ad 94 ,italian1 ab\t #aedj ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxii4 ,,an ,,infant',s ,,swaddl+ ,,b& ,,or ,,fascia ,,( ,,tela ,,tirata ,! patt]n is ( a conv5tional /em & leaf design4 ,! edg+ on ! sides is ( bobb9-made lace ( two patt]ns #c ft4 #f 94 ,sicilian1 #af? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxiii4 ,,b& ,,( ,a ,,v>iety ,,( ,,tela ,,tirata ,) a d>n$ patt]n 9 heavy ?read ( female figures alt]nat+ ) birds2 ! v&yk$ edg+ is ( punto avorio #aj ft4 #f 94 #e 94 ,s>d9ia1 #af? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxiv4 ,,l95 ,,clo? ,,) ,,bord] ,( tela tirata work$ ) loop$ & knott$ /it*es & reticello3 ! geometrical patt]n is repeat$ )\t v>iation #be 94 #ag 94 ,italian1 #ae? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxv4 ,,two ,,b&s ,no4 #a4 ,b& ( a v>iety ( tela tirata or drawn-"w3 patt]n a scroll ) a fl[]3 !re are no cut ?reads 9 ?is "w4 #c ft4 #h 94 ,no4 #b4 ,b& ( punto reale & tela tirata ) a bobb9-made edg+4 #d ft4 #aa 94 ,italian1 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxvi4 ,,pyx ,,veil ,,( ,,tela ,,tirata1 ,,or ,,drawn ,,?read ,,"w ,?is int]e/+ piece is a survival f pre-re=mation times4 ,x is #b ft4 #d 94 squ>e & has no cut ?reads 9 x4 ,! patt]n is made by draw+ #ab ?reads bo? ( w>p & wo( & leav+ small squ>es ( #ab ?reads4 ,! loose ?reads are !n mo/ +5i\sly :ipp$ ov]1 =m+ a />-l patt]n betwe5 ! squ>es4 ,! work] has pass$ h] ne$le beh9d ! squ>es #h times s z to =m a /> at ! back ( ea* squ>e1 ! corn]s h wood5 balls gilt3 & a silk fr+e surr\nds ! :ole ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxvii4 ,a ,,portion ,,( ,,! ,,pyx ,,clo?1 ,,to ,,%[ ,,bo? ,,sides ,,( ,,! ,,"w ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxviii4 ,,?ree ,,clo?s1 ,,fr+$ ,no4 #a has a geometric effect work$ on ! drawn f\ndation3 ?is /yle is call$ sfilatura 9 ,italy2 ! knott$ fr+e is ( macram4 #d ft4 #b ft4 ,no4 #b has a design ( birds & scrolls 9 punto riccio1 a bord] work$ 9 punto avorio1 & a curi\s h&-made fr+e4 #f ft4 #f 94 #b ft4 ,no4 #c is ornam5t$ ) reticello & punto riccio & has a bobb9-made edg+ & fr+e4 #c ft4 #f 94 #b ft4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxix4 ,,two ,,bord]s ,no4 #a4 ,bord] ( reticello or ne$le-po9t cut-"w3 ! geometrical rosettes are repeat$ ) v slight int]nal alt]ation4 #i 94 ,no4 #b is a curi\s piece consi/+ ( two bord]s & an edg+2 ! upp] bord] is a mixture ( punto a fe/one1 punto di treccia & punto a /uora "w4 ,! v&yke edge is ( bobb9-"w 7m]letti a fuselli74 #b ft4 #h 94 ,italian1 #ae? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxx4 ,,two ,,bord]s ,( ne$le-po9t on l951 call$ reticello or cut-"w4 ,! po9t$ edg+s ( bo? pieces are bobb9-made lace1 sometimes call$ plait$ lace ,toge!r #i ft4 #b 94 #d 94 ,italian1 #af? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxi4 ,,two ,,examples ,( d5tat$ or v&yke edg+s ( ne$le-po9t call$ punto 9 aria1 because x is made indep5d5tly ( any f\ndation4 ,toge!r #d ft4 #h 94 ,italian1 ab\t #aeej ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxii4 ,,*alice ,,cov] ,,( ,,reticello ,,& ,,punto ,,9 ,,aria ,9 ! c5tre is ! figure ( ,/4 ,pet] ) ! ,bible 9 8 "r h& & ! ,keys 9 8 left4 ,two w+$ *]ubs hold portions ( a long *a9 patt]n :i* encircles ! details ( conv5tional foliage & fl[]s4 ,a lattice ( reticello "w supports ! punto 9 aria devices4 ,! l95 c be se5 at ! sides1 :i* h an edge ( punto 9 aria4 #ac 94 #g 94 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxiii4 ,a ,,reticello ,,patt]n ,,work$ ,,9 ,,v ,,f9e ,,punto ,,9 ,,aria ,,& ,,punto ,,avorio ,a po9t$ edge is also f9ely work$ 9 punto avorio4 #e ft4 #h 94 ,italian1 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxiv4 ,,scallop$ ,,bord] ,,( ,a ,,corporal ,,( ,,flat ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace1 ,,call$ ,,punto ,,9 ,,aria ,9 :i* ! repeat+ conv5tional semi-floral =ms are connect$ by small brides4 #f ft4 ,g]man1 e>ly #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxv4 ,a ,,clo? ,,) ,,ins]tion ,,& ,,bord] ,,( ,,punto ,,9 ,,aria ,! bord] has a figure 9 ea* v&yke1 ei!r a lady ) two birds or a sir52 ! ins]tion has /range w+$ & tail$ animals support+ vases ( fl[]s3 all ! figures1 birds & animals h t9y black beads = eyes4 #f ft4 #d 94 #c ft4 ,italian1 #af? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxvi4 ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,bord] ,,( ,,flat ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace1 ,,call$ ,,punto ,,9 ,,aria ,! design ( op5 scroll+ & cont9u\s floral /ems is arrang$ to =m po9ts alt]nately ( c>nations & hyac9?s & includes /ags1 h\nds1 peacocks & o!r animals3 ! ,visconti cre/--a cr[n$ s]p5t--is introduc$1 & ! /ems sometimes twi/ into true lov]s' knots4 ,?is piece 0 probably made = a w$d+4 #d ft4 #c 94 #e 94 ,v5etian1 #af? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxvii4 ,,ornam5t ,,= ,,! ,,neck ,,( ,,an ,,alb ,,( ,,punto ,,9 ,,aria ,! ,madonna1 9 a robe spr9kl$ ) />s & cr[n$1 is seat$ on cl\ds1 h] foot re/+ on ! head ( a *]ub4 ,! ?ree p]sons ( ! ,tr9ity are above4 ,*]ubs & conv5tional fl[]s are introduc$ into ! backgr\nd3 ! robes are work$ ap>t f ! figures 9 a lacis /it* call$ mezza m&ol9a4 ,small glass beads are add$ to ! eyes4 #ah 94 #f 94 #af? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxviii4 ,,bord] ,,& ,,edg+ ,no4 #a4 ,bord] ( ne$le-po9t lace1 call$ punto 9 relievo or rose-po9t4 ,birds & s]p5ts occur 9 ! design & ea* portion ( ! patt]n is outl9$ by a ?ick cordonnet work$ 9 buttonhole /it*1 punto fe/one4 ,?is ?ick cordonnet is also us$ to d5ote ! scales ( ! s]p5t & to acc5tuate ! features ( ! birds1 ! n>r[ braid at ! top ( ! lace is bobb9-made1 ! edg+ is ( v f9e ne$le-po9t call$ punto avorio4 #aa 94 #c 94 ,italian1 #af? c5tury ,no4 #b4 ,edg+ ( flat ne$le-po9t lace brides4 ,! patt]n is a some:at confus$ r5d]+ ( a cont9u\s scroll+ /em type2 ! brides irregul>ly introduc$ h pron\nc$ picots2 & ?is feature has giv5 rise to ! title ( coral9e lace1 on acc\nt ( its sugge/ion ( coral =ms4 ,v5etian1 ab\t #affj ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxix4 ,a ,,lady',s ,,camisia ,,or ,,%irt ,! back & front are 9 "o piece ) a squ>e op5+ = ! head3 ?is is work$ all r\nd ) a f9e ins]tion & v&yk$ edge ( punto 9 aria3 ! sleeves h oblique ins]tions ( reticello "w4 ,9 ! cuffs bobb9-made lace has replac$ ! orig9al "w ,italian1 #af? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xl4 ,,b$-,,cov] ,,( ,,cut ,,l95 ,,lace 7,,tela ,,tagliata ,a ,,foliami ,,& ,,punto ,a ,,fe/one7 ,! patt]n is ( bold fl[+ scrolls1 cut 9 l951 edg$ by buttonhole /it*1 & jo9$ by brides3 a few modes are introduc$ into ! blossom =ms1 ! edg+ is ( bobb9-made lace 7m]letto a fuselli74 #g ft4 #f 94 #d ft4 #h 94 ,v5etian1 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xli4 ,,rabat ,,( ,,flat ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace ,,brides ,! patt]n is ( well-balanc$ scrolls & conv5tional fl[]s enri*$ ) a few simple modes & jo9$ by brides v>i\sly picotes #aa 94 #g 94 ,v5etian1 ab\t #afdj ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xlii4 ,,"p ,,( ,a ,,dress ,,trimm+ ,,( ,,v ,,f9e ,,ne$le-,,po9t1 ,,call$ ,,rose-,,po9t 7,,punto ,,tagliato ,a ,,foliami7 ,! patt]n wr\ght *iefly 9 close toil consi/s ( scrolls & conv5tional fl[]s jo9$ by v few brides4 ,int]mix$ ) ! toil are v>iations ( simple modes4 #ca 94 #aj 94 ,v5etian1 ab\t #afdj ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xliii4 ,,p>ts ,,( ,a ,,coll> ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t1 ,,call$ ,,rose-,,po9t1 ,,or ,,po9t ,,de ,,v5ise 7,,punto ,,tagliato ,a ,,foliami7 ,patt]n ( cont9u\s scrolls & conv5tional fl[]s frequ5tly enri*$ on _! rais$ cordonnets ) picots & jo9$ by brides picotes #e ft4 #i 94 #c 94 ,v5etian1 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xliv4 ,,/oma*] 7,,= ,a ,,dress7 ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t1 ,,call$ ,,rose-,,po9t1 ,,or ,,po9t ,,de ,,v5ise 7,,punto ,,tagliato ,a ,,foliami7 ,patt]n ( conv5tional fl[]s jo9$ by brides picotes3 ! clo?+ or toil ( ^! fl[]s is ( v close "w #aj 94 long4 ,v5etian1 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xlv4 ,,"p ,,( ,a ,,fl\nce ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t1 ,,call$ ,,rose-,,po9t1 ,,or ,,po9t ,,de ,,v5ise 7,,punto ,,tagliato ,a ,,foliami7 ,a spl5did scroll occurs 9 ! patt]n "h %[n :i* is ri* ) conv5tional fl[]s & d\ble brides picotes #ag 94 #i 94 ,v5etian1 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xlvi4 ,,"p ,,( ,a ,,beautiful ,,fl\nce ,,( ,,delicate ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,( ,,rais$ ,,or ,,rose-,,po9t ,,lace1 ,,kn[n ,,z ,,po9t ,,de ,,v5ise ,! patt]n consi/s ( well-balanc$ elegantly scroll+ devices1 t]m9at+ 9 conv5tional leaves & fl[]s ) occasional rais$ "w on !m1 & is set 9 a gr\nd ( brides picotes arrang$ 9 hexagons4 ,! /yle ( _m features 9 ! design is ,fr5* 7,l\is ,,xiv47 & ! specim5 seems to be ( ,franco-,v5etian orig9 #ag 94 #ai 94 ,v5ice1 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xlvii4 ,,portion ,,( ,,xlvi4 ,,actual ,,size ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xlviii4 ,,pat5 ,,cov] ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,rais$1 ,,or ,,rose-,,po9t ,,lace1 ,,v ,,simil> ,,9 ,,/yle ,,& ,,gracefulness ,,to ,,t ,,( ,no4 ,,xxxiii4 ,! patt]n consi/s ( sl5d] scrolls1 ) fl[]s enri*$ ) mass+s or gall]ies ( picots surr\nd+ ! lett]s ,i4,h4,s4 at ! c5tre #f 94 squ>e4 ,v5etian1 ab\t #afgj ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xlix4 ,a ,,portion ,,( ,,xlviii41 ,,magnifi$ ,,to ,,%[ ,,! ,,/it*es ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,l4 ,,?ree ,,bord]s ,,( ,,delicate ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,rais$ ,,or ,,rose-,,po9t ,,lace ,sometimes call$ po9t de neige on acc\nt ( ! mass+s or gall]ies ( picots on ! rais$ rosettes4 ,x is also call$ rosal9e 9 ,italy4 ,"s au?orities claim ?is /yle z ,fr5*1 & x is "o t may be fairly t]m$ ,franco-,v5etian1 ab\t #afgj-hj ,toge!r #d ft4 #h 94 #b 94 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,li4 ,,deep ,,fl\nce ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace ,,brides ,,picot,,es1 ,,usually ,,call$ ,,po9t ,,de ,,france ,?is h&some design1 9 ! r5d]+ ( :i* ! play ( contra/ z betwe5 toil & simple modes is a sali5t feature1 is compos$ ( semi-reali/ic leaf1 fruit & fl[] =ms arrang$ symmetrically 9 gr\ps :i* are repeat$ alt]nately ?r\gh ! :ole l5g? ( ! fl\nce4 ,acc5tuations ( rais$ cordonnet are occasionally introduc$4 #i ft4 #b 94 #ac 94 ,fr5* 7,al5on or ,s$an71 ab\t #afij ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lii4 ,,portion ,,( ,,li41 ,,enl>g$ ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,liii4 ,,bord] ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,rais$ ,,lace1 ,,call$ ,,spani% ,,rose-,,po9t ,! fond or toil ( ?is lace is p>tly made ( bobb9-made tape2 on ?is is rais$ "w1 & gimps z well z buttonhole-/it*$ cordonnets ( diff]5t dim5sions outl9e & acc5tuate ! r\nd$ s]rations & inn] portions ( ! conv5tional foliage =ms1 into :i* are introduc$ _m v>ieties ( modes4 #d ft4 #f 94 ,spani%1 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,liv4 ,,two ,,specim5s ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,rais$ ,,lace1 ,,call$ ,,spani% ,,rose-,,po9t 7,,slightly ,,r$uc$ ,,9 ,,size7 ,?is fond is p>tly ( bobb9-made tape3 on ?is is rais$ "w ( gimp & v>i\s cordonnets buttonhole /it*$ & edg$ ) loops4 ,^! latt]1 f _! sort ( cat]pill> effect1 orig9ate ! fanciful "n sometimes giv5 ( cat]pill> po9t ,spani%1 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lv4 ,,two ,,examples ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace ,no4 #a is ( silk ne$le-po9t lace ) cordonnet1 buttonhol$ 9 diff]5t sizes4 ,?is is a small portion1 actual size1 ( ! lace us$ to embelli% ! ,jewi% tali? or silk mantle or sc>f worn at pray]s4 ,v5etian1 #ag? c5tury ,no4 #b4 ,bord] ( ne$le-po9t lace sometimes call$ mezzo-punto1 z f9e bobb9-made tape or braid is us$ to outl9e ! patt]n1 two or ?ree v>ieties ( ne$le fill+s are wr\ght )9 ! tape =ms4 #ai 94 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lvi4 ,,cap ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace ,r,,seau ,! design consi/s ( a wav$ op5 ornam5tal rib& device cross+ a spray ( conv5tional fl[]s4 ,?is lace may be di/+ui%$ f ,al5on by ! use ( a s+le ?read in/ead ( a buttonhol$ /it* 9 ! cordonnet z well z by ! make & lay ( ! me%$ gr\nd1 po9t de ,v5ise rseau4 ,! /yle ( ! design is borr[$ f ! ,fr5* ( ! latt] "p ( ! #ag? c5tury4 #b ft4 #h 94 #f 94 ,v5etian1 late #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lvii4 ,a ,,bord] ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace1 ,,v5etian ,,po9t ,r,,seau ,! lead+ masses ( ! patt]n undulate1 & betwe5 ! undulations are ei!r conv5tional leaves or fl[]s fill$ 9 ) simple diap] modes & m op5ly arrang$ brides picotes4 #c ft4 #e 94 ,v5etian1 late #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lviii4 ,,two ,,examples ,,( ,,v5etian ,,po9t ,r,,seau ,no4 #a4 ,ne$le-po9t lace usually call$ ,v5etian po9t rseau4 ,! patt]n entirely cov]s ! lace & is ( conv5tional floral type3 ! fill+s are v v>i$4 ,?is lace is n ,v5etian 9 design1 & 0 probably made at ,s$an4 #f ft4 #e 94 ,s$an1 e>ly #ah? c5tury ,no4 #b is a beautiful fragm5t1 actual size1 ( ,v5etian po9t rseau4 ,v5ice1 late #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lix4 ,a ,,bord] ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace1 ,,possibly ,,v5etian1 ,,?\gh ,,! ,,/yle ,,is ,,fr5* ,! patt]n is ( leafy scrolls & conv5tional fl[]s well m>k$1 enri*$ ) light fill+s & outl9$ ) cordonnet ( f9e buttonhole /it*+4 ,! gr\nd is ( buttonhol$ brides arrang$ into hexagons /rongly sugge/ive ( ,po9t d',arg5tan4 #f ft4 #f 94 7,fr5* 787 ,al5on or ,s$an7 late #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lx4 ,,two ,,patt]ns ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace ,r,,seau1 ,,call$ ,,po9t ,d',,al5,,on ,9 ,no4 #a ! patt]n is ,v5etian 9 /yle & ! fill+s & rseau also m>k x z f ,burano4 ,9 ,no4 #b ! /yle is m ,fr5* & x may be f ,al5on3 e detail ( ! patt]ns is outl9$ ) a buttonhole-/it* cordonnet4 ,toge!r #i ft4 #f 94 ,late #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxi4 ,,two ,,bord]s ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace ,a ,r,,seau1 ,,call$ ,,po9t ,d',,al5,,on ,9 ! bord] small comp>tm5ts are treat$ ) modes or j\rs & occasional brides picotes3 a buttonhole-/it* cordonnet outl9es e detail ( ! patt]n4 #d ft4 #h 94 ,al5on1 ab\t #agaj ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxii4 ,,f\r ,,bord]s ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace ,r,,seau1 ,,call$ ,,po9t ,d',,al5,,on ,toge!r #ac ft4 #f 94 ,al5on1 ab\t #agdj ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxiii4 ,,cap-,,bord] ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace ,r,,seau1 ,,call$ ,,po9t ,d',,al5,,on ,! patt]n consi/s ( a wav$ /em s]rat$1 f :i* spr+ small sprays ( fl[]s4 ,! wid? is graduat$ & ! l5g? is )\t a jo94 ,! modes or fill+s1 at int]vals along ! edge1 are ( da9ty /> & o!r geometric devices & all p>ticul>ly *>act]i/ic ( ,fr5* 7,al5on7 lace4 #c ft4 #d 94 ,al5on1 middle #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxiv4 ,,beautiful ,,lappet ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace ,r,,seau1 ,,call$ ,,po9t ,d',,al5,,on ,! patt]n is ( t9y wavy /ems1 hav+ little leaves & peapods1 :i* recur 9 ! design ( ! out] bord] ) lattice & honeycomb fill+s enri*$ ) m9ute picots4 #d ft4 ,al5on1 late #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxv4 ,,?ree ,,patt]ns ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace ,r,,seau1 ,,call$ ,,po9t ,d',,al5,,on ,! ornam5tal design is ma9ly conf9$ to ! bord]1 ! rseau be+ spr9kl$ ) dots1 call$ pois or sometimes l>mes 7h5ce ! expression sem de l>mes74 ,toge!r #g ft4 #f 94 ,al5on1 late #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxvi4 ,,two ,,patt]ns ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace ,r,,seau1 ,,call$ ,,po9t ,d',,al5,,on ,! ma9 ornam5tation is along ! bord]4 ,! gr\nd is sem de pois & little sprays1 aft] ! /yle ( o!r su* small devices1 "s ( :i* gave rise to ! t]m sem de l>mes4 ,toge!r #i ft4 #aj 94 ,al5on1 late #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxvii4 ,,cape ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,call$ ,,po9t ,d',,al5,,on ,?is piece %[s two sizes ( me% 9 ! rseaux3 ! l>ge =ms ! ma9 gr\nd1 sem de l>mes1 :il/ ! f9] is introduc$ z a mode 9 ! bord] ( po9t$ leafy =ms4 #e ft4 #c 94 #e 94 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxviii4 ,,two ,,bord]s ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace ,call$ po9t d',arg5tan1 on acc\nt ( ! make ( ! big me% gr\nd4 ,! patt]n ( ! fir/ is simil> to t ( ,no4 ,,lxiii42 9 ! wav$ g>l& is a fill+ ( v f9e me% 7! ,al5on gr\nd74 ,! patt]n ( ! second is ( ! sem de pois or de l>mes /yle & 9 ! edge is a recurr5t fill+ ( f9e ,al5on gr\nd4 ,! ma9 gr\nd ( bo? pieces is compos$ ( hexagonal me%es work$ ov] 9 buttonhole /it*1 z 9 ,arg5tan lace4 ,toge!r #d ft4 #aj 94 ,arg5tan4 ,no4 #a ab\t #agej4 ,no4 #b ab\t #aghj ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxix4 ,,lappet ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace1 ,,call$ ,,po9t ,d',,arg5tan ,! edge is =m$ by repeat$ curv$ sprays enclos+ small spaces :i* are fill$ by a f9e ,al5on rseau3 sprays ( fl[]s also occur at int]vals along ! lace4 ,! gr\nd is entirely compos$ ( hexagonal me%es work$ ov] 9 button-hole /it* ( ,po9t d',arg5tan4 #d ft4 #b 94 #g 94 ,arg5tan1 late #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxx4 ,,?ree ,,specim5s ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace ,no4 #a is ( silk lace rseau & has a qua9t /iff patt]n ( bran*es ) birds introduc$2 a /\t ?read cordonnet outl9es mo/ ( ! patt]n1 t ( ! eye1 w+ & tail ( ea* bird is ov]work$ ) buttonhole /it*4 ,probably ,portuguese1 #ah? c5tury ,no4 #b is f a floral design treat$ ) occasional buttonhole cordonnet z 9 ,no4 #b4 ,no4 #c4 ,bord] ( ne$le-po9t1 call$ po9t de gaze on acc\nt ( ! extreme delicacy ( ! bobb9-made rseau 7vrai rseau de ,bruxelles73 ! patt]n is a fl[]y bord] ) small sprays recurr+ 9 ! gr\nd 9 ! /yle ( ! ,l\is ,,xvi4 p]iod4 ,toge!r #c ft4 #c 94 ,brussels1 #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxi4 ,,lappet ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace ,call$ po9t de gaze on acc\nt ( ! delicacy ( ! rseau4 ,! design ( scrolls & fl[]s is *iefly work$ 9 a r loose toil1 outl9$ ) a /\t ?read cordonnet & enri*$ ) v>i\s op5 modes or fill+s4 #c ft4 #c 94 #d 94 ,brussels1 #ahcj ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxii4 ,,"p ,,( ,a ,,sc>f ,or veil ( light ne$le-po9t f9e /em floral patt]n work$ on a f\ndation ( ma*9e-made net #f ft4 #b ft4 ,brussels1 #ahdj ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxiii4 ,,fl\nce ,,( ,,ma*9e-,,made ,,net ,,) ,,patt]n ,,d>n$ ,,on ,,x ,?is class ( "w is n[ usually call$ ,lim]ick lace1 b x 0 (t5 made 9 ,engl& & 9 _m places abroad #c ft4 #g 94 ,italian1 ab\t #ahcj ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxiv4 ,,"p ,,( ,,full-,,size ,,cotta ,,( ,,net ,,) ,,l>ge ,,fl[] ,,patt]n ,,d>n$ ,,9 ,,silk ,,into ,,x ,! "w is v ev5ly done ,fr5*1 ab\t #ahci ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxv4 ,a ,,specim5 ,,( ,,! ,,embroid]$ ,,musl9 ,,"w ,,call$ ,t,,nd] ,,lace ,?is is =m$ ( two ?icknesses ( musl9 sewn 9 diff]5t patt]ns by ! ne$le3 9 places ! second ?ickness ( musl9 is cut away :5 ! ne$lework is complet$4 ,! design is compos$ ( leaf & floral ornam5ts gracefully %ap$ & some:at ,fr5* 9 /yle #ab 94 #h 94 ,dani%1 #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxvi4 ,,two ,,specim5s ,,( ,,! ,,embroid]$ ,,musl9 ,,"w1 ,,call$ ,t,,nd] ,,lace ,9 ,no4 #a only "o ?ickness ( musl9 is employ$3 ! ?ick] look+ p>ts ( ! toil result f ! pass+ ( v ev5ly d>n$ ?reads at ! back ( x ,9 ,no4 #b two ?icknesses ( musl9 are us$4 ,! floral =ms1 mu* m sl5d] ?an 9 ,no4 #a1 are def9$ ) a /\t ?read cordonnet4 ,toge!r #e ft4 #aj 94 ,dani%1 #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxvii4 ,,?ree ,,patt]ns ,,( ,,musl9 ,,lace ,f ,g]man ,bohemia4 ,two ?icknesses ( musl9 are us$4 ,toge!r #g ft4 #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxviii4 ,,f\r ,,patt]ns ,,( ,,dut* ,,l95 ,,lace ,! outl9es ( conv5tional floral patt]ns are 9 *a9 /it*1 & ! fill+s v v>i\s & f9ely execut$ ,toge!r #h ft4 #i 94 ,g\da1 #ah? c5tury4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxix4 7#a7 ,,manila ,,lace4 7#b ,,& #c7 ,,lace ,,work$ ,,9 ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,no4 #a4 ,a specim5 ( ne$lework call$ ,manila lace1 made ^u a light cambric-l /uff wov5 f fibre ( great f95ess4 ,! fl[]s are embroid]$ & ! :ole gr\nd ( squ>e me%es is work$ by ! ne$le1 9 ! same way z ! tela tirata "w ,manila1 ab\t #ahdj ,nos4 #b & #c4 ,lace work$ 9 f9e ne$lepo9t /it*es ) human hair ( diff]5t %ades--! patt]n is evid5tly copi$ f ! ,v5etian ,engli%1 ab\t #ahjj ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxx4 7#a7 ,,infant',s ,,baptism ,,cap4 7#b7 ,a ,,cap ,,bord] ,no4 #a4 ,infant's ,baptism cap ) ins]tions ( ne$lepo9t lace call$ ,hollie or ,holy po9t3 ! design 9 ! cr[n %[s ! doves & ! pot ) fl[]s rem9isc5t ( ! ,annunciation ,engli%1 #af? c5tury ,no4 #b4 ,a cap bord] ( ,lim]ick run lace ,iri%1 #ai? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxxi4 ,,?ree ,,specim5s ,,( ,,e>ly ,,iri% ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace ,no4 #a has a tape introduc$4 ,no4 #c is ! s-call$ ,c>rickmacross lace 7fir/ made ab\t #ahdh7 ,toge!r #f ft4 ,ab\t #ahdh ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxxii4 ,,specim5 ,,( ,,knott$ ,,& ,,twi/$ ,,/r+ ,,or ,,?read ,,"w1 ,,call$ ,,macram ,?is sort ( "w is (t5 made by knott+ ! fray$ ends on ! edge ( a wov5 mat]ial1 or else sep>ately by knott+ /r+s ( cords ( l95 or silk1 ! ends ( :i* are fa/5$ to a small cu%ion or pill[1 b bobb9s are n us$ 9 ?is "w4 #aj 94 #ab 94 ,italian1 #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxxiii4 ,,fl\nce ,= an alb ( bobb9-made lace1 9 ! mak+ ( :i* a cont9u\s braid is us$ to =m ! patt]n4 ,! lace is %ap$ on its l[] edge into flatly curv+ scallops or mitres4 #i ft4 #d 94 #aj 94 ,maltese1 e>ly #af? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxxiv4 ,,two ,,patt]ns ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,no4 #a a design decid$ly ,ea/]n4 ,no4 #b has a floral design4 ,bo? are made 9 ! fir/ mann]1 ! patt]n entirely c>ri$ out ) ! tape x 0 begun )1 no brides or rseau be+ add$ ,toge!r #d ft4 #g 94 ,v5etian1 #af? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxxv4 ,,f\r ,,bobb9-,,made ,,laces 7,,r$uc$ ,,9 ,,size7 ,no4 #a is peasant lace ( ! famili> type ,no4 #b a f9e ins]tion to ornam5t b$-l951 ) a conv5tional floral design ,no4 #c a simil> design 9 a co>s] lace ,italian1 #af? c5tury ,no4 #d is a ,maltese lace ( ! #af? c5tury ,toge!r #aj ft4 #b 94 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxxvi4 ,,f\r ,,bobb9-,,made ,,laces 7,,r$uc$ ,,9 ,,size7 ,no4 #a is a reticello patt]n ,no4 #b is a v&yk$ patt]n 9 s-call$ plait$ lace ,italian1 #af? ,no4 #c is a simple plait$ lace or gimp c5tury ,nos4 #d & #e are v f9e examples ( e>ly ,italian bobb9 laces ( #af? c5tury4 ,toge!r #bc y>ds ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxxvii4 ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,no4 #a4 ,fr+$ edg+ ( bobb9-made lace4 ,9 bo? pieces ! *>act]i/ic little se$ %apes are freely us$ ,no4 #b4 ,scallop$ bord] ( bobb9-made lace call$ coll> lace1 9 :i* ! ornam5t is =m$ *iefly by a cont9u\s n>r[ toil or braid4 ,! same ?reads are us$ 9 ! :ole wid? ( ! lace ,toge!r #c ft4 #b 94 ,g5oese1 late #af? or e>ly #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxxviii4 ,,five ,,bobb9-,,made ,,laces ,no4 #a a curi\s e>ly patt]n ( lace made 9 ,umbria ,nos4 #b & #c are ,sicilian peasant laces ,no4 #d a lace call$ 9 ,umbria pi$i di gall9a ,no4 #e a peasant lace call$ zeccatello ,toge!r #aj ft4 #d 94 ,italian1 #af? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxxxix4 ,,six ,,specim5s ,,( ,,lace ,,made ,,be=e #ahej ,"o ea* 9 ,russia1 ,madeira1 ,portugal1 & ,ceylon1 & two f ,le ,puy 9 ,france ,toge!r #ad ft4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xc4 ,,two ,,bord]s ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,,brides ,! patt]n ( scrolls & leaves is made sep>ately & jo9$ on ! pill[ by s+le & knott$ brides 9 ! small] piece & by d\ble & knott$ brides 9 ! l>g] "o4 ,toge!r1 #h ft4 #g 94 #e 94 ,g5oese1 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xci4 ,,fl\nce ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,,brides ,,9 ,,:i* ,,! ,,toil ,,is ,,well ,,develop$ ,! patt]n is ( l>ge conv5tional sprays made sep>ately on ! pill[ & aft]w>ds jo9$ by bobb9-made knott$ brides4 #e ft4 #g 94 #f 94 ,italian1 e>ly #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xcii4 ,,fl\nce ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,! patt]n includes birds 7an eagle1 a peacock1 a p>rot1 a cr[1 etc47 set amid/ conv5tional scrolls & fl[]s4 ,^! are all made sep>ately & jo9$ on ! pill[ by d\ble & knott$ brides #i ft4 #aa 94 #i 94 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xciii4 ,! lace1 z ,,xcii actual size4 ,g5oese1 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xciv4 ,,fl\nce ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,! patt]n ( beautifully arrang$ scrolls & fl[]s includes an eagle ) a m>quis coronet & o!r small birds3 a rseau connects ! :ole4 #c ft4 #ab 94 ,milanese1 #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xcv4 ,,"p ,,( ,a ,,fl\nce ,,= ,,an ,,alb1 ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,r,,seau ,! patt]n is made sep>ately & arrang$ to =m conv5tional scrolls & fl[]s3 a rseau unites ! :ole4 #af 94 #h 94 ,milanese1 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xcvi4 ,,fl\nce ,,= ,,an ,,alb ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,r,,seau ,! patt]n is ( graceful conv5tional floral & o!r =ms arrang$ symmetrically 9 gr\ps repeat+ "o ano!r4 ,a v>iety ( noticeable fill+s is introduc$4 ,?is specim5 is r$uc$ 9 size4 #i ft4 #h 94 #ad 94 ,milanese1 #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xcvii4 ,,two ,,bord]s ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,no4 #a4 ,bord] ( bobb9-made lace4 ,! patt]n consi/s ( repeat$ gr\p+s ( scrolls & p5dant =ms2 ! same ?read is us$ ?r\gh\t ,italian1 #ag? c5tury ,no4 #b4 ,bord] ( bobb9-made lace rseau4 ,! patt]n is compos$ ) a sl5d] toil arrang$ to =m cont9u\s scrolls ) leafy (f%oots3 ! rseau gr\nd is ( ! fond *ant type3 ! same ?read is us$ ?r\gh\t4 ,toge!r #aa ft4 ,italian1 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xcviii4 ,,?ree ,,bord]s ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,edg+ ,toge!r #aj ft4 #g 94 ,maltese1 #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xcix4 ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,r,,seau ,no4 #a is made up ( ?ree l5g?s ( lace sewn toge!r4 ,! /raight edge indicates p]haps an e>li] date = ?is int]e/+ specim5 ?an t ( ! n>r[] piece4 ,toge!r #e ft4 ,fl&]s1 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,c4 ,,cap ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace1 ,,call$ ,,po9t ,,de ,,fl&re ,,brides ,,picot,,es ,! ornam5tal details 7 made sep>ately & !n jo9$ by bobb9-made brides3 ! modes or fill+s are 9 ! /yle ( ! c9q tr\s rseau4 #ab 94 long ,fl&]s1 late #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,ci4 ,,?ree ,,patt]ns ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,me*l9 ,,lace ,! patt]ns are 9 ! /yle ( ! ,po9t d',anglet]re1 b ! toil is outl9$ ) a ?read cordonnet3 ! same quality ( ?read is us$ = bo? toil1 rseau & fill+s3 ! rseau is peculi> to ?is beautiful lace4 ,toge!r #f ft4 ,me*l91 e>ly #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cii4 ,,?ree ,,bord]s ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,me*l9 ,,lace ,! patt]ns ( ! lat] /yle ( lace are mu* light] 9 effect & gradually become m]ely a bord] ( small floral ornam5t4 ,toge!r #i ft4 #h 94 ,me*l91 late #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,ciii4 ,,f\r ,,specim5s ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace1 ,,call$ ,,b9*e ,,lace ,! same ?reads are us$ = ! :ole wid? ( ! lace4 ,toge!r #f ft4 #f 94 ,b9*e1 late #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,civ4 ,,?ree ,,bord]s ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace1 ,,vrai ,r,,seau ,,de ,,bruxelles1 ,,call$ ,,po9t ,d',,anglet]re4 ,! toil details 7 made sep>ately & jo9$ on ! pill[ by a rseau4 ,! fill+s are v v>i$ & beautiful4 ,^! bord]s are work$ f ,l\is ,,xv4 designs4 ,toge!r #h ft4 #h 94 ,brussels1 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cv4 ,,lappet ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace1 ,,call$ ,,po9t ,d',,anglet]re ,leafy1 blossom & o!r %apes 9 toil are arrang$ to =m ! out] wav$ edges betwe5 :i* are baskets ( fl[]s1 etc4 ,! toil =ms are p>tially acc5tuat$ ) a plait$ cordonnet4 ,! details ( ! patt]n are made sep>ately on ! pill[1 & !n jo9$ by a f9e rseau1 call$ vrai rseau de ,bruxelles4 ,! fill+s are wond]fully f9e4 #d ft4 #aj 94 #c 94 ,brussels1 #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cvi4 ,,two ,,p>ts ,,( ,a ,,bord] ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace1 ,,call$ ,,brussels ,,po9t ,! fl[]s made sep>ately & almo/ entirely ( a plait$ cordonnet are jo9$ on ! pill[ by a f9e vrai rseau de ,bruxelles4 ,! design is 9 ! /yle ( ,l\is ,,xvi4 po9t d',al5on4 ,! rev]se ( ! lace is %[n 9 ,no4 #b4 ,! ?read ( ! rseau c be se5 pass+ beh9d ! patt]ns4 #e ft4 #c 94 #e 94 ,brussels1 #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cvii4 7#a7 ,a ,,sc>f4 7#b7 ,a ,,cap ,no4 #a4 ,a sc>f ( bobb9-made lace1 call$ ,antw]p lace1 or ,pott5 ,kant or ,pot ,lace4 ,! rseau is some:at simil> to t ( ! po9t de ,p>is1 a v>iant ( ! c9q tr\s4 ,! lace is made on ! pill[ 9 /rips :i* are almo/ imp]ceptibly jo9$ toge!r4 ,! toil details are outl9$ ) a /\t ?read cordonnet #ab ft4 #h 94 ,antw]p1 late #ah? c5tury ,no4 #b4 ,a cap ( bobb9-made lace1 call$ ,lille lace4 ,! lace is made on ! pill[ 9 /rips1 jo9$ toge!r4 ,! rseau is ( simply twi/$ ?reads4 #aa 94 #aa 94 ,lille1 late #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cviii4 ,,?ree ,,bord]s ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace1 ,,call$ ,,val5ci5nes ,,po9t ,?is e>ly ,val5ci5nes has a r\nd plait$ me%1 9 di/9ction to t ( ! lat] ,val5ci5nes lace1 :i* has a squ>e me% ,toge!r #h ft4 #e 94 ,val5ci5nes1 #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cix4 ,,f\r ,,bord]s ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace1 ,,call$ ,,val5ci5nes ,,lace1 ,,) ,,squ>e ,,me% ,r,,seau ,toge!r #g ft4 ,yprs1 #ai? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cx4 ,,bord] ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace1 ,,) ,a ,,po9t ,,de ,,p>is ,r,,seau ,an eagle1 ) %ield1 dogs & /ags are repeat$ 9 ! patt]n4 ,! rseau & ! toil are bo? made ) ! same ?read4 #d ft4 #aj 94 #c 94 ,p>is1 late #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cxi4 ,,fl\nce ,,= ,a ,,dress1 ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,silk ,,lace ,patt]n ( repeat$ heavy fl[]s 9 sprays1 =m+ a wav$ edge ,made at ,*antilly1 #ahbj-cj ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cxii4 ,,?ree ,,bord]s ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,,) ,a ,r,,seau ,,( ,,maglia ,,di ,,spagna ,no4 #a is ( l95 ?read ) a heavy ?read introduc$1 n z 9 "s ,flemi% laces to outl9e ! patt]n1 b to =m /rong lead+ l9es 9 x4 ,nos4 #b & #c are bobb9-made silk lace1 a co>s] silk ?read is introduc$4 ,^! 7 ! ruffles = a coat sleeve ,toge!r #i ft4 ,spani%1 late #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cxiii4 ,,mantilla ,,or ,,sc>f ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,black ,,silk ,,lace ,"s ( ! fill+s are ( ! po9t de ,p>is rseau1 also call$ fond *ant f ,*antilly1 :]e mu* ( ! s-call$ ,spani% silk lace 0 made #i ft4 #cj 94 ,b\ght 9 ,madrid 9 #ahdj ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cxiv4 ,,two ,,examples ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,ins]tion ,no4 #a4 ,spani% bobb9-made ins]tion3 ! /ems are ( gold & ! fl[]s ( silv] #af? c5tury ,no4 #b4 ,g5oese bobb9-made ins]tion ( silv] ) %ell patt]n edge4 ,toge!r #c ft4 #f 94 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cxv4 ,,f\r ,,patt]ns ,,( ,,italian ,,gold ,,& ,,silv] ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,probably made at ,lucca4 ,toge!r #aa ft4 #f 94 #ag? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cxvi4 ,,two ,,lappets ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,black ,no4 #a4 ,lappet ( bobb9-made black ,b$=d%ire silk lace ,no4 #b4 ,lappet ( bobb9-made black ,brussels silk lace ,toge!r #g ft4 ,ab\t #ahdh ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cxvii4 ,,two ,,bord]s ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,no4 #a4 ,bobb9-made lace4 ,! patt]n ( leaves is outl9$ 9 p>ts by a /\t ?read ,no4 #b4 ,a l>ge fl[] repeat$ =ms ! edge4 ,! *>act]i/ic v simple rseau is spott$ ) gr\ps ( six small squ>e dots ,toge!r #d ft4 #aj 94 ,bucks1 #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cxviii4 ,,bord] ,,& ,,cap ,,cr[n ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,( ,devon%ire make 9 ! /yle ( ,po9t d',anglet]re or ,brussels lace4 ,! toil details are made sep>ately & jo9$ p>tly by rseau & p>tly by brides picotes4 ,! upp] piece %[s ! back ( ! lace1 ) ! ?reads f ! rseau c>ri$ across ! toil ( ! patt]n4 ,! convolutions ( ! toil 9 ! blossoms are consid]$ to be *>act]i/ic ( ,honiton lace4 #c ft4 #d 94 ,honiton1 #ah? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cxix4 ,,lappet ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,! toil fl[]s & leaves1 *iefly rose1 %amrock & ?i/le1 are jo9$ by an irregul> me% simple rseau made by h&4 ,! orig9al design 0 p]haps to celebrate ! ,union4 #e ft4 #e 94 ,honiton1 ab\t #ahdj ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cxx4 ,,two ,,bord]s ,,( ,,appliqu ,,lace1 ,,"o ,,) ,a ,,v&yke ,,edge ,,& ,,"o ,,) ,a ,,mitr$ ,,or ,,scallop$ ,,edge ,! fl[]s are ( bobb9-made lace ) acc5tuations ( plait$ cordonnet z 9 ,po9t d',anglet]re1 & !n appli$ & sewn to ma*9e-made net4 ,toge!r #d ft4 #e 94 ,devon%ire 7,honiton7 ,,index ,a ,alb1 #i1 #bc1 #bg1 #cj1 #cc ,al5on1 #aj1 #ae1 #ca1 #cg1 #ej ,alex&ria1 #bf ,alva1 ,duke (1 #eb ,anglet]re1 #ch ,ang\lme1 ,m>gurite d'1 #ca1 #cb ,antw]p1 #ej ,app>els1 #bd ,appliqu1 #i1 #eb ,arg5tan1 #ae1 #ci ,arg5tella1 #i ,arras1 #af1 #ej ,assisi1 #be ,assisi1 ,basilica (1 #bi ,avorio1 punto1 #i1 #ad1 #ca1 #cd1 #ce ,b ,b> ,conv5t1 ,!1 #dj ,b$=d%ire1 #ea ,b5$ict9e ,ord]1 #bd ,bible ( ,/4 ,m>tial1 #bc ,biblio?que ,nationale1 #bc1 #bd ,b9*e1 #ch1 #di ,blonde1 #af1 #ea ,bobb9 ,lace1 ,classification (1 #d ,bock1 ,dr4 ,franz1 #bh1 #ec ,bone po9t1 #i ,boniface ,,viii41 #bg1 #bh ,braun1 ,s4 ,j41 ,fa!r1 #ec ,briti% ,museum1 #ba ,brussels1 #af1 #ci1 #dg1 #ea ,buck+ham1 #af1 #ej1 #ea ,burano1 #cg ,buratto1 #d1 #aj1 #ca ,buttonhole /it*1 #aj1 #bh ,byssus1 #bh ,c ,camisia1 #ce ,c>rickmacross1 #da ,c>tiglia1 #bg ,catacombs1 #bf ,ca!r9e de ,m>cq1 #ch ,ceylon1 #de1 #dg ,*alice cov]1 #cd ,*antilly1 #af1 #ea ,*>lemagne1 #bc ,*>les ,,ii41 #ch ,*ur* ve/m5ts1 #bb ,cl>e1 ,sa9t1 #be ,colb]t1 #ch ,cole1 ,mr4 ,alan1 #ec ,copes1 #bb ,coptic design1 #d1 #ba1 #be ,coral9e po9t1 #ce ,corporal bord]1 #cd ,cotta1 #aj ,crypt ( ,/4 ,pet]'s1 #bi ,d ,dalmatia1 #de ,dalmatic1 #bb ,d>n$ "w1 #ci ,d5m>k1 #ci ,d5telle1 #bc1 #cd ,d5telle de *asse1 #ea ,devon%ire lace1 #eb ,dreg]1 ,dr4 ,moritz1 #ec ,duccio di ,buon9segna1 #cj ,dugdale's ,hi/ory1 #bb ,dut* lace1 #dj ,e ,egyptians1 #bf ,engli% ,nuns ,rule1 #bb ,entrelacs1 #be ,f ,fe/one1 ,punto a1 #ad1 #bh ,fl&]s1 #af1 #dh1 #ea ,flor5ce lace1 #cb ,fogliami1 ,punto tagliato a1 #cf ,=tescue1 ,dr4 ,adrian1 #bg ,france1 ,po9t de1 #cg ,francis ,i41 ,k+1 #cb ,francis1 ,sa9t1 #be1 #bg1 #cb ,g ,gammadion ,symbol1 #ba1 #bb1 #bf1 #bg1 #ca ,gayet1 ,mr4 ,a41 #be1 #cj ,g5oa1 #ac1 #df1 #dg1 #ea ,g]man lace1 #ca1 #cd1 #dj ,giotto1 #bi ,gno/ic def9ition1 #be ,g\da lace1 #dj ,gozo1 #df ,greek "w1 #ba1 #be ,gregory ,v41 #bg ,grottaf]rata1 #bg ,h ,hair lace1 #dj ,h]aldic lace1 #cj1 #ca1 #ce1 #dh1 #ej ,h]mitage1 ,pet]sburg1 #ba ,hexagonal me%es1 #ci ,holy or ,hollie lace1 #dj ,honiton1 #dg1 #eb ,i ,ilg1 ,dr41 #ec ,iri% lace1 #da ,ivory /it*1 #aa1 #cd ,l ,lace-mak+1 ,revival (1 #d ,lace ,patt]n ,books1 #ba ,lacis1 #d1 #aa1 #bb1 #bc1 #cj1 #ca ,lat]an1 ,/4 ,john1 #bi ,leipzig1 #dj ,le ,puy1 #dg ,lille1 #af1 #ej1 #eb ,lim]ick1 #dj ,lor5zetti1 #cj ,l\is ,,xiv41 #ch ,l\is ,,xvi41 #ch ,l\vre1 #bi ,lucca1 #ea ,m ,macram1 #ab1 #cc ,madeira1 #dg ,madrid1 #ea ,malta1 #de1 #df1 #dh ,manila ,lace1 #dj ,manuscripts1 illum9at$1 #bc ,m>ie ,anto9ette1 ,que51 #ci ,m>ot1 ,clm5t1 #cb ,m>tial1 ,sa9t1 #bc ,m>y ,/u>t1 ,que51 #dj ,me*l91 #af1 #di1 #eb ,mezza ,m&ol9a1 #ce ,mi*ael1 ,sa9t1 #cb ,milan1 #dg1 #dh ,modano1 #d1 #ab1 #bb1 #cj ,moresco1 #ab ,n ,nav>re1 ,que5 (1 #ca ,ne$le-po9t1 ,classification (1 #e ,nilos1 ,sa9t1 #bg ,o ,opus sfilatorum1 #bb ,ori5tal design1 #ba ,o?o ,,iii41 #bg ,p ,pallis]1 ,mrs4 ,bury1 #eb1 #ec ,p>is1 #af1 #cg1 #ej ,passem5s1 #bd ,pat5 ,cov]1 #cg ,pet]1 ,sa9t1 #cd ,pizzi1 #bd1 #cd ,po9t rseau1 #ae1 #cg1 #di ,po9t de gaze1 #ci ,po9t de neige1 #ac1 #ag ,poll51 ,mr4 ,john ,hung]=d1 #ec ,polygonal ,design1 #be1 #bg1 #cj ,portugal1 #ci1 #dg ,pott5 ,kant1 #ej ,punto 9 aria1 #e1 #ad1 #cc ,pyx ,veil1 #d ,r ,ragusa1 #ab ,ramm5do1 ,punto a1 #ac1 #ca ,rav5na1 #cj ,reale1 ,punto1 #ae1 #be1 #cc ,r5aissance1 #ce ,reticello1 #e1 #ag1 #bc1 #bi1 #ca1 #cc ,ricci ,signora ,elisa1 #ec ,riccio ,punto1 #ae1 #ca ,rilievo1 ,punto 91 #ae ,rock1 ,dr4 ,daniel1 #bf1 #bg1 #ec ,rosepo9t1 #ag1 #cf ,ruf9us1 #bf ,russia1 #de ,ru/afjaell1 ,mr41 #ba ,s ,sab9a1 ,sa9t1 #bd ,s>d9ia1 #de ,s$an1 #cg ,segu91 ,mr41 #eb1 #ec ,sem de l>mes1 #ch ,s5s ,ca!dral1 #bd ,s]apis1 #bf ,sicily1 #ba1 #de ,si/9e ,*apel1 #bg ,socrates1 #bf ,spa91 #af1 #ba1 #cg1 #de1 #ea ,/uora1 ,punto a1 #ac1 #bh1 #cb ,swaddl+ ,b&1 #cc ,syon ,cope1 #bb ,t ,tela ,tirata1 #e1 #ag1 #bc1 #be ,templ>s1 #bb ,tnd] ,lace1 #ci ,treccia1 ,punto1 #ad1 #bh ,trolle ,kant1 #dh1 #eb ,tudor ,rose1 #ca ,tuscan ,lace1 #dg ,v ,val5ci5nes1 #af1 #di1 #ej ,valetta1 #df ,vatican ,treasury1 #bb1 #bg ,v5ice ,lace1 #cf1 #de ,v]haag51 ,mr41 #ec ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum1 #bc1 #cj ,visconti1 #ce ,y ,yprs1 #af1 #ej ,z ,zeccatello ,lace1 #dg ,,pr9t$ ,,by ,,ballantyne ,,& ,,company ,,limit$1 ,,at ,,! ,,ballantyne ,,press1 ,,tavi/ock ,,/reet ,,cov5t ,,g>d5 ,,london 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcrib]'s ,notes3 ,! foll[+ li/ %[s ! corrections made to ! text4 ,! fir/ l9e %[s ! text z orig9ally pr9t$1 ! second l9e ! correct$ v]sion4 ,,ix4 ,five enl>g$ ,v>ieties ( ,rseaux ,,ix4 ,five ,enl>g$ ,v>ieties ( ,rseaux ,,xxvi4 ,pyx ,veil ( ,tele ,tirata1 or ,drawn ,?read ,"w ,,xxvi4 ,pyx ,veil ( ,tela ,tirata1 or ,drawn ,?read ,"w ,,xxxiii4 ,a ,reticello ,patt]n work$ 9 v f9e ,punto 9 ,ario & ,,xxxiii4 ,a ,reticello ,patt]n work$ 9 v f9e ,punto 9 ,aria & ,,cxii4 ,?ree ,bord]s ( ,bobb9-made ,lace1 ) a reseau ( ,maglia di ,spagna ,,cxii4 ,?ree ,bord]s ( ,bobb9-made ,lace1 ) a rseau ( ,maglia di ,spagna (t5 us$ = lace made ) a tape1 b x us$ = lace made ) a tape1 b x r\nd ! r\nd rseau4 ,see ,plate #ajh4 r\nd rseau4 ,see ,plate #ajh4 lace1 9 :i* ! fond is really ( toile1 cut lace1 9 :i* ! fond is really ( toil1 cut =? by ,ruf9us1 ,a4,d4 #cig1 & by ,socrates ,a4,d4 #ddj4 =? by ,ruf9us1 ,a4,d4 #cig1 & by ,socrates ,b4,c4 #ddj4 probably f9e punto 9 aria work$ 9 po9ts1 z ,plate #cj1 b x probably f9e punto 9 aria work$ 9 po9ts1 z 9 ,plate #cj1 b x call$ ,tond] musl9 lace made 9 ,d5m>k 9 ! eighte5? call$ ,tnd] musl9 lace made 9 ,d5m>k 9 ! eighte5? = caps2 x is cal$ ,g\da lace2 ! fill+s are v well = caps2 x is call$ ,g\da lace2 ! fill+s are v well ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxvi4 ,,pyx ,,veil ,,( ,,tele ,,tirata1 ,,or ,,drawn ,,?read ,,"w ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxvi4 ,,pyx ,,veil ,,( ,,tela ,,tirata1 ,,or ,,drawn ,,?read ,,"w ,"o is "p ( a circula panel or r\ndel1 & ! ,"o is "p ( a circul> panel or r\ndel1 & ! ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxiv4 ,,beautiful ,,lappet ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace ,a ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lxiv4 ,,beautiful ,,lappet ,,( ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,lace p>ts ! toil result f ! pass+ ( v ev5ly d>n$ ?reads at p>ts ( ! toil result f ! pass+ ( v ev5ly d>n$ ?reads at ,call$ po9t d' ,arg5tan1 on acc\nt ( ! make ( ! ,call$ po9t d',arg5tan1 on acc\nt ( ! make ( ! ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xci4 ,,fl\nce ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,a ,,brides ,,9 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xci4 ,,fl\nce ,,( ,,bobb9-,,made ,,lace ,,brides ,,9 ,ypres1 #ai? c5tury ,yprs1 #ai? c5tury ,illu/ration3 ,,cxx4 ,,two ,,bord]s ,,( ,,appliqu ,,lace1 ,,"o ,,) ,a ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,cxx4 ,,two ,,bord]s ,,( ,,appliqu ,,lace1 ,,"o ,,) ,a ,ang\lme1 ,m>gu]ite d'1 #ca1 #cb ,ang\lme1 ,m>gurite d'1 #ca1 #cb ,m>ot1 ,clem5t1 #cb ,m>ot1 ,clm5t1 #cb ,po9t a rseau1 #ae1 #cg1 #di ,po9t rseau1 #ae1 #cg1 #di ,sgu91 ,mr41 #eb1 #ec ,segu91 ,mr41 #eb1 #ec