,,soyer',s ,,pantropheon4 ,illustration3 ,pl4 ,a ,,the ,,pantropheon ,,or1 ,,history ,,of ,,food1 ,and its ,preparation1 ,,from ,,the ,,earliest ,,ages ,,of ,,the ,,world4 ,,by ,a4 ,,soyer1 ,,author ,,of 8,the ,gastronomic ,regenerator0 and the 8,modern ,housewife1 or ,mnagre10 c4 ,,embellished ,,with ,,forty-,,two ,,steel ,,plates1 ,,illustrating ,,the ,,greatest ,,gastronomic ,,marvels ,,of ,,antiquity4 ,,boston3 ,,ticknor1 ,,reed1 ,,and ,,fields4 ,,mdcccliii4 ,the ,author reserves his right of ,translating this ,work4 ,illustration ,,london3 ,,vizetelly ,,and ,,company1 ,,printers ,,and ,,engravers4 ,,peterborough ,,court1 ,,fleet ,,street4 ,contents4 ,page ,,pantropheon #c ,i4 ,,agriculture #i ,,ii4 ,,cereals #ai ,,iii4 ,,grinding ,,of ,,corn #bc ,,iv4 ,,manipulation ,,of ,,flour #cj ,v4 ,,frumenta #da ,,vi4 ,,grains3 ,,seeds #df ,,vii4 ,,vegetables #di ,,viii4 ,,dried ,,vegetables #ec ,beans #ec ,haricots #ee ,peas #ef ,lentils #eg ,,ix4 ,,kitchen ,,garden #ei ,cabbage #fj ,beet #fb ,spinach #fc ,mallows #fd ,asparagus #fd ,gourd #ff ,turnips #fg ,carrots #fh ,blit 7a sort of ,beet7 #fh ,purslaine #fh ,sorrel #fi ,brocoli #fi ,artichoke #gj ,pompion #ga ,cucumber #gb ,lettuce #gd ,endive #ge ,onions #gf ,leeks #gg ,melon #gg ,radish #gi ,horse-,radish #hj ,garlic #ha ,eschalots #hb ,parsley #hb ,chervil #hd ,water-,cresses #hd ,x4 ,,plants ,,used ,,in ,,seasoning #hf ,poppy #hf ,sesame #hf ,sow-,thistle #hg ,orach #hg ,rocket #hg ,fennel #hh ,dill #hh ,anise-,seed #hh ,hyssop #hh ,wild ,marjoram #hi ,savory #hi ,thyme #hi ,wild ,thyme #hi ,sweet ,marjoram #hi ,pennyroyal #ij ,rue #ij ,mint #ij ,spanish ,camomile #ij ,cummin #ia ,alisander #ia ,capers #ia ,asaftida #ia ,sumach #ib ,ginger #ib ,wormwood #ic ,,xi4 ,,fruits #ie ,,xii4 ,,stone ,,fruit #ig ,olive ,tree #ig ,palm ,tree #ajj ,cherry ,tree #ajb ,apricot ,tree #ajc ,peach ,tree #ajd ,plum ,tree #aje ,,xiii4 ,,pip ,,fruit #ajf ,quince ,tree #ajf ,pear ,tree #ajg ,apple ,tree #ajh ,lemon ,tree #aji ,orange ,tree #aaj ,fig ,tree #aab ,raspberry ,tree #aae ,currant ,tree #aae ,strawberry ,plant #aae ,mulberry ,tree #aaf ,,xiv4 ,,shell ,,fruit #aag ,almond ,tree #aag ,walnut ,tree #aah ,nut ,tree #abj ,pistachio ,tree #abj ,chesnut ,tree #aba ,pomegranate #abb ,,xv4 ,,animal ,,food #abc ,rearing of ,cattle #abg ,markets #abh ,butchers #abi ,,xvi4 ,,animals #acc ,the ,pig #acc ,the ,ox #adb ,the ,lamb #adf ,the ,kid #adh ,the ,ass #aej ,the ,dog #aej ,,xvii4 ,,poultry #aeb ,the ,cock #aec ,the ,capon #aed ,the ,hen #aee ,the ,chicken #aef ,the ,duck #afh ,the ,goose #aej ,the ,pigeon #afb ,the ,guinea ,hen #afc ,the ,turkey ,hen #afh ,the ,peacock #aff ,,xviii4 ,,milk1 ,,butter1 ,,cheese1 ,,and ,,eggs #afh ,milk #afh ,butter #agj ,cheese #agc ,eggs #age ,,xix4 ,,hunting #agi ,the ,stag #ahb ,the ,roebuck #ahd ,the ,deer #ahd ,the ,wild ,boar #ahe ,the ,hare #ahh ,the ,rabbit #ahi ,the ,fox #aij ,the ,hedgehog #aij ,the ,squirrel #aij ,the ,camel #aij ,the ,elephant #aia ,,xx4 ,,feathered ,,game #aic ,the ,pheasant #aid ,the ,partridge #aie ,the ,quail #aif ,the ,thrush #aig ,the ,blackbird #aii ,the ,starling #bjj ,the ,flamingo #bjj ,fig-,pecker1 or ,beccafico #bja ,the ,ortolan #bjc ,the ,ostrich #bjc ,the ,stork #bjd ,the ,sea-,swallow #bjd ,the ,wood-,hen1 ,bustard1 ,water-,hen1 and ,teal #bjf ,the ,woodcock1 ,snipe1 ,curlew1 ,crow1 ,turtle ,dove1 and ,lark #bjg ,,xxi4 ,,fish #baj ,sturgeon #baf ,red ,mullet #bah ,sea-,eel #bbj ,lamprey #bbb ,sea-,wolf #bbc ,scarus1 or ,parrot-,fish #bbc ,turbot #bbd ,tunny #bbe ,conger-,eel #bbf ,eel #bbg ,pike #bbh ,carp #bbi ,eel-,pout #bbi ,trout #bcj ,gold ,fish #bcj ,whiting #bcj ,cod ,fish #bca ,perch #bcb ,scate #bcc ,salmon #bcc ,sepia1 or ,cuttle-,fish #bcd ,swordfish #bcd ,shad #bcd ,rhombo1 or ,rhombus #bce ,mugil #bce ,mackerel #bce ,haddock #bcf ,tench #bcf ,dragon ,weaver #bcg ,loligo #bcg ,sole #bcg ,angel-,fish #bcg ,file-,fish #bcg ,pilchard #bch ,loach #bch ,gudgeon #bch ,herring #bci ,anchovy #bdj ,,shell-,,fish #bda ,oysters #bdb ,sea-,hedgehog #bde ,mussel #bde ,scallop #bdf ,tortoise #bdf ,sea-,crawfish #bdg ,lobster #bdg ,river ,crayfish #bdh ,crab #bdh ,frogs #bdi ,,xxii4 ,,the ,,cook #bea ,,the ,,kitchen #bei ,,xxiii4 ,,seasonings #bff ,salt #bfg ,brine #bfh ,digestive ,salts #bfi ,garum #bfi ,honey #bgc ,sugar #bge ,cinnamon #bge ,cloves #bgf ,pepper #bgg ,verjuice #bgg ,vinegar #bgh ,truffle #bgi ,mushrooms #bhb ,,xxiv4 ,,pastry #bhd ,,xxv4 ,,water #bic ,,xxvi4 ,,beverages #bii ,tea #cjf ,coffee #caj ,chocolate #cab ,,xxvii4 ,,drinking ,,cups #caf ,,xxviii4 ,,wine #cbb ,,liqueur ,,wine #ccb ,,xxix4 ,,repasts #cci ,,xxx4 ,,variety ,,of ,,repasts #ced ,,xxxi4 ,,the ,,dining-,,room #cfc ,,xxxii4 ,,the ,,table #cfh ,,the ,,table ,,seats #cgb ,,xxxiii4 ,,the ,,servants #cgf ,,xxxiv4 ,,the ,,guests #chj ,,xxxv4 ,a ,,roman ,,supper #chf ,,biographical ,,notes #cii ,,modern ,,banquets #dja ,,table ,,of ,,references #dac ,,table ,,of ,,recipes #ddd ,,index #ddi ,list of ,illustrations4 ,page ,,plate ,a4 ,,frontispiece--,,portrait ,,of ,,the ,,author4 ,,plate ,b4 ,,heaven ,,and ,,earth4 ,,plate ,b499 ,,victua1 ,,or ,,the ,,goddess ,,of ,,gastronomy4 ,,plate ,i4 ,,egyptian ,,labourers4--,no4 #a1 ,egyptian ,labourer4 ,no4 #b1 ,sketch of a ,plough4 ,no4 #c1 ,basket4 ,no4 #d1 ,egyptian with ,sickle1 drawn by ,horses #ab ,,plate ,,ii4 ,,greek ,,and ,,roman ,,ploughs4--,nos4 #a and #b1 ,greek and ,roman ,ploughs4 ,no4 #c1 ,plough1 turned once or twice4 ,no4 #d1 ,plough1 as used by the ,gauls #ad ,,plate ,,iii4 ,,agricultural ,,implements4--,no4 #a1 ,plain ,sickle4 ,no4 #b;,a1 ,plough1 from the ,georgics of ,virgil4 ,no4 #c1 ,scythe4 ,no4 #d1 ,spade4 ,no4 #e1 ,pick-axe4 ,nos4 #f and #g1 ,mattocks #af ,,plate ,,iv4 ,,alcinous',s ,,hand-,,mill #be ,,plate ,v4 ,,jumentari ,,mills #bf ,,plate ,,vi4 ,,plautus',s ,,hand-,,mill #bg ,,plate ,,vii4 ,,cappadocia ,,bread4--,no4 #a1 ,loaf of ,bread4 ,no4 #b1 ,pastry ,mould4 ,no4 #c1 ,cappadocia ,bread4 ,no4 #d1 ,mould for ditto #ch ,,plate ,,viii4 ,,scales ,,and ,,weights #acj ,,plate ,,ix4 ,,varro',s ,,aviary #aih ,,plate ,x4 ,,apicius ,,and ,,epicurus #bja ,,plate ,,xi4 ,,remains ,,of ,,kitchen ,,stoves4--,no4 #a1 ,kitchen ,stove4 ,no4 #b4 ,stock ,pot4 ,no4 #c1 ,ditto4 ,no4 #d1 ,ladles4 ,no4 #e1 ,brazier #bei ,,plate ,,xii4 ,,stock ,,pots ,,and ,,broken ,,stewpan #bfa ,,plate ,,xiii4 ,,kitchen ,,utensils4--,no4 #a1 ,boiler1 of ,bronze4 ,no4 #b1 ,flat ,saucepan4 ,no4 #c1 ,kettle4 ,no4 #d1 ,gridiron4 ,no4 #e1 ,trivet #bfb ,,plate ,,xiv4 ,,chafing-,,dish ,,and ,,silver ,,cup4--,no4 #a1 ,chafing-,dish4 ,no4 #b1 ,silver ,cup #bfc ,,plate ,,xv4 ,,spoon1 ,,fork1 ,,knife1 ,,simpulum1 c4--,no4 #a1 ,roman ,silver ,spoon4 ,no4 #b1 ,brass ,knife4 ,no4 #c1 ,simpulum4 ,no4 #d1 ,ditto4 ,no4 #e1 ,fork #bfd ,,plate ,,xvi4 ,,roman ,,silver ,,knife-,,handle1 ,,silver ,,spoon1 ,,and ,,deep ,,dish4--,no4 #a1 ,silver ,knife-handle4 ,no4 #b1 ,spoon4 ,no4 #c1 ,dish #bfe ,,plate ,,xvii4 ,,roman ,,and ,,egyptian ,,pails4--,no4 #a1 ,pail1 of ,bronze4 ,no4 #b1 ,pail1 with ,two ,handles 7,egyptian7 #big ,,plate ,,xviii4 ,,drinking-,,cups4--,no4 #a1 ,drinking-,cups 7,shaded74 ,no4 #b1 ,ditto1 ,pig's ,head and ,dog's ,head #caf ,,plate ,,xviii4,a ,,drinking-,,cups4--,no4 #c1 ,ram's ,head4 ,no4 #d1 ,boar's ,head #cag ,,plate ,,xix4 ,,drinking-,,horns4--,nos4 #a and #b1 ,drinking-,horns4 ,no4 #c1 ,horn1 ,aztec's ,head #cah ,,plate ,,xx4 ,,crystal ,,vase #cai ,,plate ,,xxi4 ,,murrhin ,,cup #cba ,,plate ,,xxii4 ,,relics ,,from ,,herculaneum4--,no4 #a1 ,wine ,press4 ,no4 #b1 ,diogenes4 ,no4 #c1 ,beast of ,burthen 7a toy7 #cbe ,,plate ,,xxiii4 ,,colum ,,nivarum #cbg ,,plate ,,xxiv4 ,,vessels ,,for ,,holding ,,wine4--,no4 #a1 ,amphora4 ,nos4 #b and #c1 ,smaller ,dolium4 ,no4 #d1 ,long-neck ,bottle #cbh ,,plate ,,xxv4 ,,vases ,,for ,,wine4--,no4 #a1 ,large ,vase4 ,no4 #b1 ,glass ,vase4 ,no4 #c1 ,glass ,bottle1 with ,cup #cfc ,,plate ,,xxvi4 ,,vases ,,for ,,wine4--,no4 #a1 ,glass ,vase4 ,no4 #b1 ,ditto4 ,no4 #c1 ,etruscan1 ,three ,handles4 ,no4 #d1 ,large ,silver ,vase4 ,no4 #e1 ,cantharus #cfd ,,plate ,,xxvi4,a ,,curious ,,ornamental ,,terra-,,cotta ,,cups4--,no4 #a1 ,goose4 ,no4 #b1 ,teapot4 ,no4 #c1 ,jupiter's ,head #cfe ,,plate ,,xxvi4,b ,,house ,,of ,,brunswick',s ,,vase #cff ,,plate ,,xxvii4 ,,vases ,,for ,,wine4--,no4 #a1 ,etruscan ,flat ,vase4 ,no4 #b1 ,marble ,vase4 ,no4 #c1 ,metal ,vase4 ,no4 #d1 ,greek ,etruscan ,drinking ,vase #cgj ,,plate ,,xxviii4 ,,procillatores ,,and ,,triclinium4--,no4 #a1 ,procillatores4 ,no4 #b1 ,triclinium #cgh ,,plate ,,xxix4 ,,roman ,,supper #chf ,,plate ,,xxx4 ,no4 #a1 ,greek ,etruscan ,vase4 ,no4 #b1 ,greek ,terra-,cotta ,vase4 ,no4 #c1 ,etruscan ,terra-,cotta ,vase4 ,no4 #d1 ,glass ,amphora1 for ,falernian ,wine4 ,no4 #e1 ,terra-,cotta ,amphora1 for ,falernian ,wine #cij ,,plate ,,xxx499 ,,crater1 ,,or ,,drinking ,,cup #cia ,,plate ,,xxxi4 ,no4 #a1 ,curious ,silver ,dish4 ,nos4 #b and #c1 ,silver ditto #cib ,,plate ,,xxxii4 ,,nero ,,and ,,heliogabalus #cih ,,plate ,,xxxiii4 ,,york ,,banquet #djd ,,plate ,,xxxiv4 ,,wild ,,boar ,a ,,la ,,troyenne1 ,,and ,,the ,,hundred ,,guinea ,,dish #djf ,,plate ,,xxxv4 ,,three ,,silvered ,,glass ,,cups #djg ,,this ,,work ,is ,dedicated by the ,author ,,to ,,the ,,genius ,,of ,,gastronomy4 ,illustration ,,pantropheon4 8,i did feast with ,csar40 ,,shakspere4--8,julius ,csar10 ,act iii41 ,sc4 #c4 8,dis-moi1 ce que tu manges1 ,je te dirai ce que tu es40 ,,brillat-,,savarin4--8,physiologie du ,got40 ,thanks to the impressions received in boyhood1 ,rome and ,athens always present themselves to our minds accompanied by the din of arms1 shouts of victory1 or the clamours of plebeians crowded round the popular tribune4 8,and yet10 said we1 8nations1 like individuals1 have two modes of existence distinctly marked--one intellectual and moral1 the other sensual and physical2 and both continue to interest through the lapse of ages40 ,what1 for instance1 calls forth our sympathies more surely than to follow from the cradle that city of ,romulus--at first so weak1 so obscure1 and so despised--through its prodigious developments1 until1 having become the sovereign mistress of the world1 it seems1 like ,alexander1 to lament that the limits of the globe restrict within so narrow a compass its ungovernable ardour for conquest1 its insatiable thirst of opima spolia and tyrannical oppression4 ,in like manner1 a mighty river1 accounted as nothing at its source1 where a child can step across1 receives in its meandrous descent the tribute of waters1 which roll on with increasing violence1 and rush at last from their too narrow bed to inundate distant plains1 and spread desolation and terror4 ,history has not failed to record1 one by one1 the battles1 victories1 and defeats of nations which no longer exist2 it has described their public life1--their life in open air1--the tumultuous assemblies of the forum1--the fury of the populace1--the revolts of the camps1--the barbarous spectacles of those amphiteatres1 where the whole pagan universe engaged in bloody conflict1 where gladiators were condemned to slaughter one another for the pastime of the over-pampered inhabitants of the ,eternal ,city--sanguinary spectacles1 which often consigned twenty or thirty thousand men to the jaws of death in the space of thirty days6 ,but1 after all1 neither heroes1 soldiers1 nor people1 can be always at war2 they cannot be incessantly at daggers drawn on account of some open-air election2 the applause bestowed on a skilful and courageous bestiarius is not eternal2 captives may be poignarded in the ,circus by way of amusement1 but only for a time4 ,independently of all these things1 there is the home1 the fire-side1 the prose of life1 if you will2 nay1 let us say it at once1 the business of life--eating and drinking4 ,it is to that we have devoted our vigils1 and1 in order to arrive at our aim1 we have given an historical sketch of the vegetable and animal alimentation of man from the earliest ages2 therefore it will be easily understood why we have taken the liberty of saying to the austere ,jew1 the voluptuous ,athenian1 the obsequious or vain-glorious senator of imperial ,rome1 and even to the fantastical1 prodigal1 and cruel ,csars3 8,tell me what thou eatest1 and ,i will tell thee who thou art40 ,but1 it must be confessed that our task was surrounded with difficulties1 and required much laborious patience and obstinate perseverance4 ,it is easy to penetrate into the temples1 the baths1 and the theatres of the ancients2 not so to rummage their cellars1 pantries1 and kitchens1 and study the delicate magnificence of their dining-rooms4 ,now it was there1 and there alone1 that we sought to obtain access4 ,with that view we have had recourse to the only possible means3 we have interrogated those old memoirs of an extinct civilisation which connect the present with the past2 poets1 orators1 historians1 philosophers1 epistolographers1 writers on husbandry1 and even those who are the most frivolous or the most obscure--we have consulted all1 examined all1 neglected nothing4 ,our respectful curiosity has often emboldened us to peep into the sacred treasure of the annals of the people of ,god2 and sometimes the doctors of the ,primitive ,church have furnished us with interesting traits of manners and customs1 together with chance indications of domestic usages1 disseminated1 and1 as it were1 lost in the midst of grave moral instruction4 ,the fatigue of these unwonted researches appeared to us to be fully compensated by the joy we experienced on finding our hopes satisfied by some new discovery4 ,like the botanist1 who forgets his lassitude at the unexpected sight of a desired plant1 we no longer remembered the dust of fatidical volumes1 nor the numberless leaves we had turned over1 when by a happy chance our gastronomic enthusiasm espied a curious and rare dish4 ,thus it is that this work--essay1 we ought to call it--has been slowly and gradually augmented with the spoils of numerous writers of antiquity1 both religious and profane4 ,we have avoided1 as much as possible1 giving to this book a didactic and magisterial character1 which would have ill-accorded with the apparent lightness of the subject1 and might have rendered it tedious to most readers4 ,we know not whether these researches will be considered instructive1 but we hope they will amuse4 ,when we compare the cookery of the ancients with our own--and the parallel naturally presents itself to the mind--it often betrays strange anomalies1 monstrous differences1 singular perversions of taste1 and incomprehensible amalgamations1 which baffle every attempt at justification4 ,apicius himself1 or perhaps the ,clius of the #crd century1 to whom we owe the celebrated treatise 8,de ,opeoniis10 would run great risk--if he were now to rise from his tomb1 and attempted to give vogue to his ten books of recipes--either of passing for a poisoner or of being put under restraint as a subject decidedly insane4 ,it follows1 then1 that although we have borrowed his curious lucubrations1 we leave to the ,roman epicurean and to his times the entire responsibility of his work4 ,the reader will also remark1 in the course of this volume1 asserted facts of a striking oddity1 certain valuations which appear to be exaggerated1 some descriptions he will pronounce fabulous or impossible4 ,now1 we have never failed to give our authorities1 but we are far from being willing to add our personal guarantee2 so that we leave all those antique frauds--if any--to be placed to the account of the writers who have traitorously furnished them4 ,we think1 however1 that most persons will peruse with some interest 7and1 let us hope1 a little indulgence7 these studies on an art which1 like all arts invented by necessity or inspired by pleasure1 has kept pace with the genius of nations1 and became more refined and more perfect in proportion as they themselves became more polite4 ,it appears that the luxury and enchantments of the table were first appreciated by the ,assyrians and ,persians1 those voluptuous ,asiatics1 who1 by reason of the enervating mildness of the climate1 were powerless to resist sensual seductions4 ,greece--8beloved daughter of the gods0--speedily embellished the culinary art with all the exquisite delicacy of her poetic genius4 8,the people of ,athens10 says an amiable writer1 whom we regret to quote from memory1 8took delight in exercising their creative power1 in giving existence to new arts1 in enlarging the aureola of civilisation4 ,at their voice1 the gods hastened to inhabit the antique oak2 they disported in the fountains and the streams2 they dispersed themselves in gamesome groups on the tops of the mountains and in the shade of the valleys1 while their songs and their balmy breath mingled with the harmonious whisperings of the gentle breeze40 ,what cooks6 what a table6 what guests6 in that ,eden of paganism--that land of intoxicating perfumes1 of generous wines1 and inexhaustible laughter6 ,the ,lacedmonians alone1 those cynics of ,greece1 threw a saddening shade over the delicious picture of present happiness undisturbed by any thought of to-morrow4 ,let us not forget that an ,athenian1 not less witty than nice1 and1 moreover1 a man of good company1 has left us this profound aphorism3 8,la viande la plus dlicate est celle qui est le moins viande2 le poisson le plus exquis est celui qui est le moins poisson40 ,rome was long renowned for her austere frugality1 and it is remarked that1 during more than five centuries1 the art of making bread was there unknown1 which says little for her civilisation and intelligence4 ,subsequently1 the conquest of ,greece1 the spoils of the subjugated world1 the prodigious refinements of the ,syracusans1 gave to the conquered nations1 says ,juvenal1 a complete revenge on their conquerors4 ,the unheard-of excesses of the table swallowed up patrimonies which seemed to be inexhaustible1 and illustrious dissipators obtained a durable but sad renown4 ,the ,romans had whimsical tastes1 since they dared serve the flesh of asses and dogs1 and ruined themselves to fatten snails4 ,but1 after all1 the caprices of fashion1 rather than the refinement of sensuality1 compelled them to adopt these strange aliments4 ,paulus milius1 no doubt a good judge in such matters1 formed a high opinion of the elegance displayed by his compatriots in the entertainments2 and he compared a skilful cook1 at the moment when he is planning and arranging a repast1 to a great general4 ,we were very anxious to enrich our 8,,pantropheon0 with a greater number of ,bills of ,fare1 or details of banquets2 but we have become persuaded that it is very difficult1 at the present day1 to procure a complete and accurate account of the arrangement of feasts at which were seated guests who died two or three thousand years ago4 ,save and except the indications--more or less satisfactory1 but always somewhat vague--which we gather on this subject from ,petronius1 ,athenus1 ,apuleius1 ,macrobius1 ,suetonius1 and some other writers1 we can do little more than establish analogies1 make deductions1 and reconstruct the entire edifice of an antique banquet by the help of a few data1 valuable1 without doubt1 but almost always incomplete4 ,one single passage in ,macrobius--a curious monument of ,roman cookery--will supply the place of multiplied researches3 it is the description of a supper given by the ,pontiff ,lentulus on the day of his reception4 ,we present it to the amateurs of the magiric art3 8,the first course 7ante-cna7 was composed of sea-hedgehogs1 raw oysters in abundance1 all sorts of shell-fish1 and asparagus4 ,the second service comprised a fine fatted pullet1 a fresh dish of oysters1 and other shell-fish1 different kinds of dates1 univalvular shell-fish 7as whelks1 conchs1 c471 more oysters1 but of different kinds1 sea-nettles1 beccaficoes1 chines of roe-buck and wild boar1 fowls covered with a perfumed paste1 a second dish of shell-fish1 and purples--a very costly kind of ,crustacea4 ,the third and last course presented several hors-d'uvre1 a wild boar's head1 fish1 a second set of hors-d'uvre1 ducks1 potted river fish1 leverets1 roast fowls1 and cakes from the marshes of ,ancona40 ,all these delicacies would very much surprise an epicurean of the present day1 particularly if they were offered to him in the order indicated by ,macrobius4 ,the text of that writer1 as it is handed down to us1 may be imperfect or mutilated2 again1 he may have described the supper of ,lentulus from memory1 regardless of the order prescribed for those punctilious and learned transitions to which a feast owes all its value4 ,let us1 we would say1 in addressing our culinary colleagues1 avoid those deplorable lacunes2 let us preserve for future generations1 who may be curious concerning our gastronomic pomp1 the minuti of our memorable magiric meetings1 prompted1 almost without exception1 by some highly civilising idea--a love of the arts1 the commercial propagandism1 or a feeling of philanthropy4 ,the ,greeks and ,romans--egotists1 if there ever were any--supped for themselves1 and lived only to sup2 our pleasures are ennobled by views more useful and more elevated4 ,we often dine for the poor1 and we sometimes dance for the afflicted1 the widow1 and the orphan4 ,moreover1 a most important ethnographical consideration seems to give a serious interest to the diet of a people1 if it be true1 as we are convinced it is1 and as we shall probably one day endeavour to demonstrate1 that the manners of individuals1 their idiosyncrasies1 inclinations1 and intellectual habits1 are modified1 to a certain extent1 as taste1 climate1 and circumstances may determine the nature of their food2 an assertion which might be supported by irrefragable proofs1 and would show the justness of the aphorism3 8,tell me what thou eatest1 and ,i will tell thee who thou art40 ,illustration3 ,pl4 ,b ,,victua or ,,the ,,goddess ,,of ,,gastronomy ,i4 ,,agriculture ,every nation has attributed the origin of agriculture to some beneficent ,deity4 ,the ,egyptians bestowed this honour on ,osiris1 the ,greeks on ,ceres and ,triptolemus1 the ,latins on ,saturn1 or on their king ,janus1 whom1 in gratitude1 they placed among the gods4 ,all nations1 however1 agree that1 whoever introduced among them this happy and beneficial discovery1 has been most useful to man by elevating his mind to a state of sociability and civilization4,i-#a ,many learned men have made laborious researches in order to discover1 not only the name of the inventor of agriculture1 but the country and the century in which he lived2 some1 however1 have failed in their inquiry4 ,and why8 ,because they have forgotten1 in their investigation1 the only book which could give them positive information on the birth of society1 and the first development of human industry4 ,we read in the ,book of ,genesis that3 8,the ,lord ,god took the man1 and put him into the garden of ,eden1 to dress it and to keep it0,i-#b ,and1 after having related his fatal disobedience1 the sacred historian adds3 8,therefore the ,lord ,god sent him forth from the garden of ,eden1 to till the ground from whence he was taken40,i-#c ,would it be possible to adduce a more ancient and sublime authority8 ,if it be asked why we take ,moses as our guide1 instead of dating the origin of human society from those remote periods which are lost in the night of ages1 we invoke one of the most worthy masters of human science--the illustrious ,cuvier--who says3-- 8,no western nation can produce an uninterrupted chronology of more than three thousand years4 ,not one of them has any record of connected facts which bears the stamp of probability anterior to that time1 nor even for two or three centuries after4 ,the ,greeks acknowledge that they learned the art of writing from the ,phnicians thirty or thirty-four centuries ago2 and for a long time after that period their history is filled with fables1 in which they only go back three hundred years to establish the cradle of their existence as a nation4 ,of the history of western ,asia we have only a few contradictory extracts1 which embrace1 in an unconnected form1 about twenty centuries4 ,the first profane historian with whom we are acquainted by works extant is ,herodotus1 and his antiquity does not reach two thousand three hundred years4 ,the historians consulted by him had written less than a century previous2 and we are enabled to judge what kind of historians they were by the extravagances handed down to us as extracts from ,aristus1 ,proconesus1 and some others4 ,before them they had only poets2 and ,homer1 the master and eternal model of the west1 lived only two thousand seven hundred1 or two thousand eight hundred1 years ago4 ,one single nation has transmitted to us annals1 written in prose1 before the time of ,cyrus3 it is the ,jewish nation4 ,that part of the ,old ,testament called the ,pentateuch has existed in its present form at least ever since the schism of ,jeroboam1 as the ,samaritans receive it equally with the ,jews1 that is to say1 that it has assuredly existed more than two thousand eight hundred years4 ,there is no reason for not attributing the ,book of ,genesis to ,moses1 which would carry us back five hundred years more1 or thirty-three centuries2 and it is only necessary to read it in order to perceive that it is1 in part1 a compilation of fragments from antecedent works3 wherefore1 no one can have the least doubt of its being the oldest book now possessed by the western nations40,i-#d ,the descendants of our first parents--and1 first of all1 the ,hebrew people1 who1 as a nation historically considered1 must occupy our foremost attention--devoted all their energy to agricultural labour4 ,the chief of the tribe of ,judah as well as the youngest son of the tribe of ,benjamin followed the plough1 and gathered corn in the fields4 ,gideon was thrashing and winnowing his corn1 when an angel revealed to him that he should be the deliverer of ,israel2,i-#e ,ruth was gleaning when ,boaz saw her for the first time2,i-#f ,king ,saul was driving his team of oxen in the ploughed field1 when some of his court came and apprized him that the city of ,jabesh was in danger2,i-#g and ,elisha was called away to prophesy while at work with one of his father's ploughs4,i-#h ,we could multiply these incidents without end1 to prove what extraordinary interest the ,jews took in agricultural occupations4 ,moses regarded agriculture as the first of all arts1 and he enjoined the ,hebrews to apply themselves to it in preference to any other3 it was to the free and pure air of the fields1 to the strengthening1 healthy1 and laborious country life1 that he called their first attention4 ,the sages of ,greece and ,rome held the same opinion3 in those republics the tradesman was but an obscure individual1 while the tiller of the soil was considered as a distinguished citizen4 ,the urban tribes yielded precedence to the rustics1 and this latter class supplied the nation with its generals and its magistrates4,i-#i ,our present ideas on this point have materially changed with the times1 and our modern ,cincinnati very seldom return to the field to terminate the furrow they have commenced4 ,the ,israelites did not possess this excessive delicacy3 they preserved the taste for agriculture with which their great legislator1 ,moses1 had inspired them1 and which the distribution of land naturally tended to strengthen4 ,no one1 in fact1 was allowed to possess enough ground to tempt him to neglect the smallest portion2 nor had any one the right to dispossess the ,hebrew of his father's field1--even he himself was forbidden to alienate for ever land from his family4,i-#aj ,this wise disposition did not escape the notice of an ancient heathen author1,i-#aa and various states of ,greece adopted the same plan2 amongst others1 the ,locrians1 ,athenians1 and ,spartans1 who did not allow their fathers' inheritance to be sold4,i-#ab ,the plan which we have adopted for our guidance in this work hardly justifies us in casting more than a glance at the ,mosaic legislation2 we shall1 therefore1 pass over all those prescriptions1 all those memorable prohibitions1 which the reader must have so often admired in the ,books of ,leviticus and ,deuteronomy1 and content ourselves with observing that ,moses knew how to find in agriculture an infallible means of developing the industry of his people1 and that1 by imposing the necessity of giving rest to the land every seventh year1,i-#ac he obliged them1 by the generality of this repose1 to have stores in reserve2 and consequently to employ every means of preserving portions of the grain1 fruit1 wines1 and oil which they had gathered in the course of the six years preceding4 ,ancient casuists of this nation enter into the most minute details on tillage and sowing1 and also on the gathering of olives1 on the tithes which were paid to the priests1 and the portion set aside for the poor4 ,they also mention some species of excellent wheat1 barley1 rice1 figs1 dates1 c41 which were gathered in ,judea4,i-#ad ,the soil of this delicious country was astonishingly fertile1,i-#ae the operation of tillage was easy1 and the cattle here supplied a greater abundance of milk than anywhere else2,i-#af we will just remark that even the names of several localities indicate some of these advantages4 ,for instance1 ,capernaum signified a beautiful country town2 ,gennesareth1 the garden of the groves2 ,bethsaida1 the house of plenty2 ,nam was indebted for its sweet name to the beauty of its situation2 and ,magdela1 on the borders of the sea of ,galilee1 to its site1 and the happy life of its inhabitants4 ,next to the ,hebrews1 in agriculture1 came the ,egyptians1 a strange and fantastical people1 who raised the imperishable pyramids1 the statue of ,memnon1 and the lighthouse of ,alexandria1 and who yet prayed religiously every morning to their goddess--a radish1 or their gods--leek and onion4,i-#ag ,whatever there may be of folly and rare industry in this mixture1 we cannot but agree that the art of agriculture was very ancient in ,egypt1 as the father of the faithful--,abraham--retired into that country at a time of famine2,i-#ah and1 later1 the sons of ,jacob went there also to purchase corn4,i-#ai ,we know that the ,romans called this province the granary of the empire1 and that they drew from it every year twenty million bushels of corn4,i-#bj ,if we are to believe the ,egyptians1 ,osiris1 son of ,jupiter 7and hence a demi-god of good family71 taught them the art of tilling the ground by aid of the plough4,i-#ba ,this instrument1 we may easily believe1 was much less complicated than ours of the present day2 there is no doubt that in the beginning1 and for a great length of time afterwards1 ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,i4 ,no4 #a4 ,represents an ,egyptian labourer tilling the ground with a pickaxe of a simple form2 drawn at ,thebes1 by ,mons4 ,nectoul1 member of the commission of the ,french expedition in ,egypt1 from paintings in the subterranean vaults of ,minich4 ,no4 #b4 ,is a sketch of the plough1 which a great number of ,egyptian figures hold as an attribute2 this was taken from the subterranean vault of ,eileithya2 it represents the plough guided by a labourer1 and drawn by oxen tied by the horns1 and whipped by a second labourer1 whilst a third1 placed by the side of the oxen1 throws before them the seeds which are to be covered by the ploughed earth4 ,no4 #c4 ,a basket to carry the seeds4 ,on the tombs of the kings of ,thebes is seen painted a sower1 with a basket like this1 an attribute which is seen hanging on the back of the divinity ,osiris4 ,no4 #d4 ,represents an ,egyptian with a sickle1 much like in shape to a scythe2 and ,denon1 of the ,french expedition1 proved that corn was also cut with a scythe4 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #a it was nothing but a long piece of wood without joint1 and bent in such manner that one end went into the ground1 whilst the other served to yoke the oxen2,i-#bb for it was always these animals which drew the plough1 although ,homer seems to give the preference to mules4,i-#bc ,the ,greeks1 clever imitators of the ,egyptians1 pretended that ,ceres taught them the art of sowing1 reaping1 and grinding corn2 they made her goddess of harvest1 and applied themselves to the labour of agriculture with that rare and persevering ability which always characterised these people1 and consequently was often the cause of many things being attributed to them which they only borrowed from other nations4,i-#bd ,the ,romans1 future rulers of the world1 understood from the first that the earth claimed their nursing care2 and ,romulus instituted an order of priesthood for no other object than the advancement of this useful art4 ,it was composed of the twelve sons of his nurse1 all invested with a sacerdotal character1 who were commanded to offer to ,heaven vows and sacrifices in order to obtain an abundant harvest4 ,they were called ,arvales brothers2,i-#be one of them dying1 the king took his place1 and continued to fulfil his duty for the rest of his life4,i-#bf ,in the palmy days of the republic1 the conquerors of the universe passed from the army or the senate to their fields2,i-#bg ,seranus was sowing when called to command the ,roman troops1 and ,quintus ,cincinnatus was ploughing when a deputation came and informed him that he was appointed dictator4 ,everything in the conduct of the ,romans gives evidence of their great veneration for agriculture4 ,they called the rich1 locupletes1 that is1 persons who were possessors of a farm or country seat 7locus72 their first money was stamped with a sheep or an ox1 the symbol of abundance3 they called it pecunia1 from pecus 7flock74 ,the public treasure was designated pascua1 because the ,roman domain consisted1 at the beginning1 only of pasturage4 ,after the taking of ,carthage1 the books of the libraries were distributed to the allied princes of the republic1 but the senate reserved the twenty-eight books of ,mago on agriculture4,i-#bh ,we shall briefly point out the principal processes of this art in use among the ,greeks and ,romans1 or at least those which appear to us most deserving of interest4 ,like us1 the ancients divided the land in furrows1 whose legal length 7if we may so term it7 was one hundred and thirty feet4,i-#bi ,oxen were never allowed to stop while tracing a furrow1 but on arriving at the end they rested a short time2 and when their task was over they were cleaned with the greatest care1 and their mouths washed with wine4,i-#cj ,the ground being well prepared and fit to receive the seed1 the grain was spread on the even surface of the furrows1 and then covered over4,i-#ca ,the primitive plough1 already mentioned1 was of extreme simplicity4 ,it had no wheels1 but was merely furnished with a handle1 to enable the ploughman to direct it according to his judgment2 neither was there any iron or other metal in its construction4 ,they afterwards made a plough of two pieces1 one of a certain length to put the oxen to1 and the other was shorter to go in the ground2 it was similar1 in shape1 to an anchor4 ,such was the style of plough which the ,greeks used4,i-#cb ,they also very often employed a sort of fork1 with three or four prongs1 for the same purpose4,i-#cc ,pliny gives credit to the ,gauls for the invention of the plough mounted on wheels4 ,the ,anglo-,norman plough had no wheels2,i-#cd the ploughman guided it with one hand1 and carried a stick in the other to break the clods4 ,the ,greeks and ,romans had not1 perhaps1 the celebrated guano of our days1 though we would not positively assert it2 but they knew of a great variety of manures1 all well adapted to the various soils they wished to improve4 ,sometimes they made use of marl1 a sort of fat clay2,i-#ce and frequently manure from pigeons1 blackbirds1 and thrushes1 which were fattened in aviaries,i-#cf for the benefit of ,roman epicures4 ,certain plants1 they thought1 required a light layer of ashes1 which they obtained from roots and brushwood2,i-#cg others succeeded best1 according to their dictum1 on land where sheep1 goats1 c41 had grazed for a long time4,i-#ch ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,ii4 ,nos4 #a #b4 ,greek and ,roman plough1 made of several pieces2 the first taken from the 8,miscelan4 ,erudit40 of ,spon1 the second from an engraved stone in the gallery of ,florence4 ,no4 #c4 ,plough1 made of one crooked piece of wood1 turned once or twice4 ,no4 #d4 ,plough1 as used by the ,gauls1 furnished with wheels4 ,when the harvest season arrived1 they joyfully prepared to cut the corn1 with instruments varying in form according to the locality or the fancy of the master4 ,in one place they adopted the plain sickle1,i-#ci in another that with teeth4,i-#dj ,sometimes they mowed the corn1 as they did the meadows1 with a scythe2,i-#da or else they plucked off the ears with a kind of fork1 armed with five teeth4,i-#db ,a short time after the harvest1 the operation of thrashing generally began4 ,heavy chariots1 armed with ,illustration3 ,pl4 #b pointed teeth1 crushed the ears3 ,varro calls this machine the 8,carthaginian chariot40,i-#dc ,strabo asserts that the ancient ,britons carried the corn into a large covered area1 or barn1 where they thrashed it2 adding that1 without this precaution1 the rain and damp would have spoiled the grain4,i-#dd ,at all events1 this kind of thrashing in barns1 with flails and sticks1 was not unknown to other countries2 ,pliny speaks of it1,i-#de and ,columella describes it2,i-#df we may add that the ,egyptians were also very probably acquainted with this method1 since the ,jews1 who had submitted to their power1 employed it themselves4,i-#dg ,when the corn had been thrashed1 winnowed1 and put into baskets very similar to our own of the present day1,i-#dh they immediately studied the best means of preserving it3 some preferred granaries exposed to a mild temperature1 others had extensive edifices with thick brick walls without openings1 except one hole only1 in the roof1 to admit light and air4 ,the ,spaniards1 ,africans1 and ,cappadocians1 dug deep ditches1 from which they excluded all moisture2 they covered the bottom and lined the sides with straw1 then put in the grain1 and covered it up4 ,the ancients were of opinion that corn in the ear could1 by this means1 be preserved a great number of years4,i-#di ,if it is desirable to keep corn for any length of time1 choose the finest and best grown4 ,after having worked it1 make a pile as high as the ceiling will permit4 ,cover with a layer of quicklime1 powdered1 of about three inches thick2 then1 with a watering-pot1 moisten this lime1 which forms a crust with the corn4 ,the outside seeds bud1 and shoot forth a stalk1 which perishes in winter4 ,this corn is only to be touched when necessity requires it4 ,at ,sedan1 a warehouse has been seen1 hewed out of the rock and tolerably damp1 in which there had been a considerable pile of corn for the last hundred and ten years4 ,it was covered with a crust a foot thick1 on which persons might walk without bending or breaking it in the slightest degree4 ,marshal ,vauban proposed eating corn in soup1 without being ground2 it was boiled during two or three hours in water1 and when the grains had burst1 a little salt1 butter1 or milk1 was added4 ,this food is very nice1 not unwholesome1 and might be employed when flour is scarce1 heated1 or half-rotten4--,,dutour4 ,the ,chinese instituted a ceremony which had for its base to honour the profession of agriculture3 every year1 at the time of ploughing the fields1 the emperor with all his court paid a visit to his country residence near ,pekin1 and then marked out several furrows with his plough4 ,in #agic1 the ,national ,convention of ,france instituted also a similar fte2 and the president of the local administration of his county was to mark out a furrow4 ,in #ahdh a grand republican procession took place through ,paris1 to the ,champ de ,mars1 wherein agriculture played a prominent part4 ,the first treatise on agriculture was printed in #aech2 and its importance has been so much felt from that period1 that there are now in ,france more than one hundred and twenty societies of agriculture1 who distribute prizes to encourage discoveries for the improvement of this science4 ,we have1 in our days1 the ,royal ,agricultural ,society of ,england1 which also awards prizes2,v and through such institutions all information can be obtained on the successive progresses made in that indispensable art1 which may be said to have arrived to such a degree of perfection1 that future generations may find some difficulty in improving upon it4 ,one great evidence of which is1 the immense number of samples of agricultural produce1 machines1 and implements of husbandry1 which great and the glorious ,exhibition of #ahea has ushered to the world4 ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,iii4 ,no4 #a4 ,is the plain sickle4 ,no4 #b4 ,another1 with teeth4 ,no4 #c4 ,a scythe1 very similar to those now in use4 ,no4 #d4 ,a spade2 its handle is supplied with a double crossbar1 fixed at a little distance off the spade1 to support the foot2 it is still so used in ,italy and the southern parts of ,france4 ,no4 #e4 ,a pickaxe1 as it was found engraved on the various sarcophagi2 the pick end was sometimes flattened1 and then called pick-axe4 ,nos4 #f and #g4 ,the mattocks2 the first was drawn from an engraved stone in the 8,monuments ,antiq40 of ,winckelmann4 ,no4 #b ,a4 ,represents a plough1 composed according to the 8,georgics0 of ,virgil4 ,previous to the arrival of the ,romans1 the ancient ,britons paid but little attention to agriculture4 ,their intestine discords left them scarcely any leisure to cultivate their fields1 or apply themselves to the improvement of an art which flourishes only in peaceful times4 ,they reared a great number of cattle2 but their chief corn was barley1 of which they made their favourite drink4 ,they put the grain in the ear into barns1 and beat it out as they wanted it4 ,those inhabitants of the island who were the least civilized subsisted solely on milk and the flesh of animals1 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #c which they had learned to master by their skill4,i-#ej ,but the people of this nation1 for which ,heaven had in reserve such a brilliant destiny1 knew how to endure hunger1 cold1 and fatigue1 without a murmur4 ,a ,briton passed entire days immersed to the neck in the stagnant waters of a marsh2 a few roots sufficed for his nourishment1 and1 if we are to believe ,dio1 his frugal habits enabled him to appease the craving of his stomach with an aliment composed of ingredients no longer known1 and of which he took each time1 at long intervals1 a quantity not exceeding in size that of a bean4,i-#ea ,let us add that the art of gardening was known rather early in ,great ,britain1 and that marl was employed to manure the land4,i-#eb ,the ,anglo-,saxons employed themselves diligently in the cultivation of the soil2 they established farms1 sowed grain1 and reared cattle4 ,the fleece of their sheep furnished them with precious wool1 which they spun1 and then converted into sumptuous clothing4,i-#ec ,strutt gives us a curious detail of rural occupations at that epoch4 ,we will cite the original text3 8,january exhibits the husbandman in the fields at plough1 while his attendant1 diligently following1 is sowing the grain4 8,february4 ,the grain being put into the earth1 the next care was to prune their trees1 crop their vines1 and place them in order4 8,march4 ,then we follow them into the garden1 where the industrious labourer is digging up the ground1 and sowing the vegetables for the ensuing season4 8,april4 ,now1 taking leave of the laborious husbandman1 we see the nobleman regaling with his friends1 and passing the pleasant month in carousings1 banquetings1 and music4 8,may brings the lord into the field to examine his flock1 and superintend the shearing of the sheep4 8,june4 ,with this month comes the gladsome time of harvest4 ,here are some cutting down the corn1 while it is1 by others1 bound up in sheaves and laid into the carts1 to be conveyed to the barns and granaries2 in the meantime they are spirited up to their labours by the shrill sound of the enlivening horn4 8,july4 ,here we find them employed in lopping the trees and felling of timber1 c4 8,august4 ,in this month they cut down the barley with which they made their old and best beloved drink 7ale74 8,september4 ,here we find the lord1 attended by his huntsmen1 pursuing and chasing the wild boars in the woods and forests4 8,october4 ,and here he is amusing himself with the exercise of that old and noble pastime1 hawking4 8,november4 ,this month returns us again to the labourers1 who are here heating and preparing their utensils4 8,december4 ,in this last month we find them thrashing out the grain1 while some winnow or rather sift it1 to free it from the chaff1 and others carry it out in large baskets to the granaries4 ,in the meantime1 the steward keeps an account of the quantity1 by means of an indented or notched stick40,i-#ed ,agriculture was always protected with paternal solicitude by a prince1 whose name will ever remind us of the sanguinary day of ,saint ,bartholomew4 ,here is a textual passage from the edict issued by ,charles ,,ix41 the #ahth ,october1 #aega4 8,we have commanded and ordained1 and do hereby command and ordain1 that no man engaged in the cultivation of land1 by himself1 his servants1 and his family1 with intent to raise grain and fruit necessary for the sustenance of men and beasts1 shall be liable to the process of execution for debt1 nor on any account whatsoever1 neither in his own person1 nor his bed1 horses1 mares1 mules1 asses1 oxen1 cows1 pigs1 goats1 sheep1 poultry1 ploughs1 carts1 waggons1 harrows1 barrows1 nor any other species or kind of cattle or goods serving in the said tillage and occupation4 99 99 99 ,the said husbandmen being under our protection and safeguard1 seeing that we have so placed them and do place them by these presents40,i-#ee ,,ii4 ,,cereals4 ,the nomenclature which the ,romans have left us of their various kinds of corn is so obscure and uncertain1 that some modern writers are continually contradicting each other1 and1 by these means1 have raised doubts which render our task more difficult1 instead of enlightening us on the subject4 ,we shall do all in our power to avoid the censure which we take the liberty of passing upon them4 8,triticum10 wheat1 or corn2 8,bl10 from the ancient ,latin word 8,bladus10 which signifies fruit or seed4 ,the botanist ,michaux has discovered in ,persia1 on a mountain four days' journey from ,hamadan1 the place where wheat 7a species known as spelt1 from the ,latin spelta7 is indigenous to the soil1 from which we may presume that wheat has its origin in that country1 or some part of ,asia not far from ,persia4 ,this grain was more cultivated formerly than it is now2 nevertheless1 it is still gathered in ,italy1 ,switzerland1 ,alsace1 in the ,limousin and in ,picardy1 to make bread1 with spelt1 a greater quantity of leaven1 and1 above all1 a little salt4 ,this bread is white1 light1 savoury1 and keeps moist for several days4--,,parmentier4 ,robus1 a variety of corn heavier than triticum1 and remarkable for its brilliant polish4 ,every year1 on the #beth of ,april1 an appeal was made to the god ,robigus1 to prevent the mildew from corrupting this fine specimen of corn4 ,this festival was founded by the great king1 ,numa ,pompilius4,,ii-#a ,siligo1 a beautiful quality of wheat1 of great whiteness1 but lighter in weight than the preceding kind4,,ii-#b ,trimestre1 a kind of siligo1 sown in ,spring1 and which was ready for reaping three months afterwards4 ,granea1 the grain merely deprived of its husk3 it was boiled in water1 to which milk was added4,,ii-#c ,hordeum1 barley4,,ii-#d ,the flour of this corn was the food of the ,jewish soldiers4,,ii-#e ,it was1 with the ,athenians1 a favourite dish1 but among the ,romans an ignominious food4 ,augustus threatened the cohorts that1 should they not fight bravely1 he would punish every tenth man with death1 and give the remainder barley for food4,,ii-#f ,this corn was certainly in use among the ,egyptians in the time of ,moses1 since one of the plagues which afflicted that people was the loss of the barley in the ear before it came to maturity4,,ii-#g ,panicum1 panic grass4,,ii-#h ,certain inhabitants of ,thrace and of the borders of the ,euxine1 or ,black ,sea1 preferred this to all other food4,,ii-#i ,millium1 millet1 was used for making excellent cakes4,,ii-#aj ,secale1 rye4,,ii-#aa ,pliny thinks this grain detestable1 and only good to appease extreme hunger4,,ii-#ab ,avena1 oats4,,ii-#ac ,virgil had but very little esteem for this grain4,,ii-#ad ,the ,romans cut it in the spring for the cattle to eat green2 and the ,germans1 in the time of ,pliny1 took great care in its cultivation1 and made a pulp of it which they thought excellent4,,ii-#ae ,oryza1 rice4 ,pliny,,ii-#af and ,dioscorides,,ii-#ag class it with the wheats2 whereas ,galen1 on the contrary1 places it among vegetables4 ,rice was rather scarce in ,greece at the time when ,theophrastus lived3 it had lately been brought from ,india1 #bhf years before ,christ4 ,the ancients considered it most nutritious and fattening4,,ii-#ah ,zea1 spelt1 or rice wheat1,,ii-#ai equally esteemed by ,greeks and ,latins4,,ii-#bj ,sesamum1 sesame4 ,pliny classes this among the seeds sown in ,march1,,ii-#ba and ,columella places it among the vegetables4,,ii-#bb ,the ,romans knew how to prepare this corn in a manner at once wholesome and agreeable4 ,they made it into very dainty cakes1 which were served at dessert1,,ii-#bc whence sprang the saying sesame cakes1 which was applied to those sweet and flattering expressions called honied words 7in ,french1 paroles sucres74,,ii-#bd ,a people so restless and unmanageable as were the ,greeks and ,romans1 when pressed by hunger1 required that the greatest care should be exercised for the supply of corn1 and the easy sale of this precious provision4 ,hence nothing could be wiser than their regulations on this subject4 ,one of the laws of the twelve tables punished with death the individual who had premeditatedly set fire to his neighbour's corn2 and inflicted a fine or the whip on any one who caused so great a calamity by his imprudence4,,ii-#be ,in ,greece1 a special magistrate1 the 8,sitocome10 was charged with the inspection of the corn2 and various officers1 such as the sitones1 the sitophylaces1 and the sitologes1 were appointed to watch over its purchase4 ,and lastly1 public distributors1 under the names of siturches and sitometres1 were exclusively occupied with the allotment of corn2,,ii-#bf they prevented any one from purchasing a greater quantity than was actually necessary for his wants4 ,the law forbad the delivery of more than fifty measures to one individual4,,ii-#bg ,the ,roman government was so convinced that abundance of bread was one of the best means of maintaining public tranquillity1,,ii-#bh that ,julius ,csar created two prtors1 and two ediles or magistrates1 to preside over the purchase1 conveyance1 storing1 and gratuitous distribution of wheat4,,ii-#bi ,for we know that this people of kings1 powerful but frivolous1 and careless of the morrow1 submitted to the incredible follies of their rulers on the sole condition of being well fed and amused by them4,,ii-#cj ,in the time of ,demosthenes the common price of wheat in ,greece was about #cs4 #aa;d4 the four bushels4,,ii-#ca ,in ,rome1 during the republic1 wheat was distributed to #fj1jjj persons4,,ii-#cb ,julius ,csar desired that #cbj1jjj plebeians should enjoy this bounty2 but this number was afterwards reduced to #aej1jjj1;,,ii-#cc or perhaps1 according to ,cassius1 to #afj1jjj4;,,ii-#cd ,augustus fed1 at first1 #bjj1jjj citizens1 then only #abj1jjj4;,,ii-#ce ,nero1 who always went to extremes either in good or evil1 gave corn throughout the empire to #bbj1jjj idle people1 including the soldiers of the prtorian guard4,,ii-#cf ,adrian added to this list all the children of the poor3 the boys to the age of #ah1 and the girls to that of #ad4 ,finally1 this liberality1 more politic than generous1 and so foreign to our present manners1 was carried1 under the ,emperor ,severus1 to #ge1jjj bushels per day4,,ii-#cg ,the bushel weighed twenty pounds of twelve ounces each4,,ii-#ch ,the ,greeks esteemed highly the corn of ,botia1 ,thrace1 and ,pontus4 ,the ,romans preferred that of ,lombardy1 the present duchy of ,spoletta1 ,sicily1 ,sardinia1 and a part of ,gaul4 ,sardinia1 ,sicily1 and ,corsica1 supplied them every year with #hjj1jjj bushels of twenty-one pounds weight1 which made them call those islands 8the sweet nurses of ,rome40,,ii-#ci ,africa furnished #dj1jjj1jjj of bushels2 ,egypt #bj1jjj1jjj1 and the remainder came from ,greece1 ,asia1 ,syria1 ,gaul1 and ,spain4,,ii-#dj ,the erudite are not agreed as to the aboriginal country of corn3 some say it is ,egypt1 others ,tartary1 and the learned ,bailly1 as well as the traveller ,pallas1 affirm that it grows spontaneously in ,siberia4 ,be that as it may1 the ,phocians brought it to ,marseilles before the ,romans had penetrated into ,gaul4 ,the ,gauls ate the corn cooked1 or bruised in a mortar2 they did not know for a long time how to make fermented bread4 ,the ,chinese attribute to ,chin-,nong1 the second of the nine emperors of ,china who preceded the establishment of the dynasties 7more than #b1bjg years ,b4,c471 the discovery of corn1 rice1 and other cereals4 ,we find in the ,black ,book of the ,exchequer1 that in the reign of ,henry ,i41 when they reduced the victuals 7for the king's household7 to the estimate of money1 a measure of wheat to make bread for the service of one hundred men1 one day1 was valued only at one shilling4,,ii-#da ,but in the reign of ,henry ,,iii41 about the #dcrd year1 the price was mounted up to fifteen and twenty shillings a quarter4,,ii-#db ,the ancients1 as well as the moderns1 caused wheat to undergo certain preparations to enable it to be transformed into bread1 we shall enumerate in the following chapter the different processes by which they obtained flour1 the essential foundation of the food of man4 ,cereals4--,this name has been given to all plants of the gramineous family1 the fundamental base of the food of man4 ,the cereals1 properly speaking1 are limited to wheat1 rye1 barley1 and oats2 however1 there are others1 such as canary grass1 ,indian corn1 millet1 rice1 c41 c4 ,the immediate and most abundant principle of all these plants is the fcule1 or flour1 and the vegeto-animal matter of which bread is made1 and other preparations for food1 and fermented liquors2 these cereals are given green or dry to cattle as forage2 their straw covers houses1 and serves as litter and manure4 ,cereals was also the name given to a feast in honour of ,ceres1 instituted at ,rome by the edile ,mumonius1 and celebrated every year on the #gth of ,april4 ,the ladies of ,rome appeared clothed in white1 and holding torches in remembrance of the travels of that divinity4 ,cakes sprinkled with salt and grains of incense1 honey1 milk1 and wine1 were offered to that goddess4 ,pigs were sacrificed to her4 ,the cereals of the ,romans were the thesmophories with the ,greeks4 ,,iii4 ,,grinding ,,of ,,corn4 ,at a very distant period1 when gods1 not over edifying in their conduct1 descended at times from the heights of ,olympus to enliven their immortality amongst mortals1 we are told that a divine aliment charmed the palate of ,jupiter and that of his quarrelsome wife2 nay1 of all those who inhabited the celestial abode4 ,we are ignorant of the hour at which the table of the god of thunder was laid2 but we know well that he breakfasted1 dined1 and supped on a delicious ambrosia--a liquid substance1 it may be presumed1 since it flowed for the first time from one of the horns of the goat ,amaltha1 and of rather an insipid taste1 if we are to believe ,ibicus1,,iii-#a who describes it as nine times sweeter than honey4 ,the gods have disappeared2 we would forgive them for leaving us1 had they left behind them the recipe of this marvellous substance2 but its composition and essence remain unknown1 and man1 not skilful enough to appropriate to his use the inexhaustible treasures of culinary science1 began his hard gastrophagic apprenticeship by devouring acorns which grew in the forests4,,iii-#b ,this is assuredly very mortifying to our feelings2 but you may believe it on the authority of a poet1 for we well know that a poet never tells an untruth4,,iii-#c ,besides1 fabulous antiquity adds new weight to the fact1 by informing us that the ,arcadian ,pelasgus,,iii-#d deserved that altars should be erected to his memory1 for having taught the ,greeks to choose in preference the beech-nut1 as the most delicate of this class of comestibles1 according to the tender ,virgil1 who1 however1 only judged of it by hearsay4,,iii-#e ,there is a great degree of probability in the supposition that the different races of the north1 each inhabiting a country covered with immense forests1 lived for a long time on the fruit of these different kinds of oak which they possessed in such abundance4 ,the great respect they had for the tree1 the pompous ceremony with which the high priest of the ,druids came every year to cut away the parasitical plant which clings to it1 the very name of the ,druids--derived from a celtic word signifying oak--all seem to point out the first food of our ancestors4 ,the oak furnished the primitive aliment of almost every nation1 in their original state of barbarism4 ,some of them had even preserved a taste for the acorn after they became civilized4 ,among the ,arcadians and the ,spaniards1 the acorn was regarded as a delicious article of food4 ,we read in ,pliny that1 in his time1 these latter had them served on their tables at dessert1 after they had been roasted in the wood-ashes to soften them4 ,according to ,champier1 this custom still subsisted in ,spain in the #afth century4 ,the regulation made by ,chrodegand1 ,bishop of ,metz1 about the end of the #hth century1 for the canons1 says expressly,,iii-#f that if1 in an unfavorable year1 the acorn or flour should fail1 it will be the duty of the bishop to provide it4 ,when1 animated by the most praiseworthy zeal and courage1 ,du ,bellay1 ,bishop of ,mans1 came1 in #aedf1 to represent to ,francis ,i4 the frightful misery of the provinces1 and that of his diocese in particular1 he assured the king that in many localities the people had nothing to eat but bread made of acorns4 ,but mankind1 who soon get tired of every thing1 even of acorns and beech-nuts1 began to dislike this wholesome and abundant food1 when ,ceres1 the ancient ,queen of ,sicily1 came just propos to give a few lessons in the art of sowing the earth4,,iii-#g ,corn once brought into fashion acquired a surprising repute1 and the ancient food was given up to the animal which it fattens2 and if this last were eaten1 it was no doubt in gratitude for the fruit mankind had formerly so much loved4 ,the good ,ceres did not stop there2 it was very well to have corn1 but to know how to grind it was also requisite2 and the human race was then so lamentably backward1 that one might have gone round the world without meeting a miller1 or even the shadow of the meanest little mill4 ,the ,queen of ,sicily then invented grinding-stones1,,iii-#h but1 as the most useful discoveries require time to be known and improved upon1 the way of grinding corn with stones did not become uniform everywhere4 ,the inhabitants of ,etruria 7now called ,tuscany7 pounded the grain in ,illustration3 ,pl4 #d4 ,,alcinous',s ,,hand ,,mill4 mortars4,,iii-#i ,the early ,romans adopted the same means1 and gave the name of ,pistores1 grinders1 to those persons who followed this occupation4,,iii-#aj ,pliny relates that one of the ancient families of ,rome took the surname of ,piso1 having descended1 as they believed1 from the inventor of the art of bruising wheat with pestles4,,iii-#aa ,down to the latest days of the ,roman republic the corn was bruised after being roasted4 ,the pestle used for this purpose was somewhat pointed1 and suspended by the aid of a ring to the extremity of a flexible lever1 supported by an axle4,,iii-#ab ,from the time of ,moses the ,hebrews used grinding-stones3 several passages of the ,holy ,scripture clearly indicate this4 ,among others3 8,no man shall take the nether or the upper millstone to pledge2 for he taketh a man's life to pledge40,,iii-#ac ,another text shows that the ,egyptians used grinding-stones with handles1 at about the same period4,,iii-#ad ,the ,israelites1 when in the ,desert1 employed the same means to pound manna1,,iii-#ae and after their settlement in the ,promised ,land1 these utensils served to grind corn4 ,the ,greeks1 following faithfully the system from which they had but slightly deviated1 have honoured ,king ,miletus as the inventor of grinding-stones2,,iii-#af the upper part was of wood1 and armed with heads of iron nails4 ,a passage of ,homer would seem to lead us to believe that the grain was first crushed with rollers on stone slabs1 which operation would naturally lead to the crushing of it between grinding-stones4,,iii-#ag ,however this may be1 these last were no doubt still scarce in the heroic times1 since the same poet does not fail to inform us that one was to be seen in the gardens of ,alcinous1 chief of the ,phacians4,,iii-#ah ,this kind of decoration would but very little please the taste of our modern horticulturists4 ,nearly two centuries before our era1 in the year of ,rome #efb1 the ,romans1 victorious in ,asia1 brought with them handmills4,,iii-#ai ,this conquest of industry soon made an immense stride1 and to the labour of man succeeded by degrees the obedient aid of horses and asses4 ,hence the two kind of mills so often mentioned--by hand1 manuales2 by animal1 iumentari,,iii-#bj ,delighted with a discovery which supplied an important necessity of life1 the ,romans invented a divinity to whom they might show their gratitude1 and ,olympus was honoured with a new inmate3 the goddess ,mola1 protectress and patroness of mills and millstones4,,iii-#ba ,now ,mola was one of a large family2 she had several charming sisters1 like herself1 who could not endure living among the commoners1 while ,ganymede served ambrosia to their elder sister1 or poured out for her the nectar of the gods4 ,besides1 it cost so little to be made a goddess6 ,a few grains of incense1 more or less1 who would grudge such a trifle8 ,the ,flamine of ,jupiter1 whom they consulted1 was at first rather refractory4 ,he feared the crowding of ,olympus2 he doubted whether polite intercourse could ever be established between gods of high birth and little divinities covered with flour2 but when at last the high priest had ceased speaking1 the deputation removed all scruples by a reasonable bribe1 and the sisters of ,mola were forthwith enrolled in the list of immortals1 under the designation of well-beloved daughters of the god of war4,,iii-#bb ,mars was rather ungentlemanly on the occasion1 but the high priest undertook to bring him to reason4 ,this took place about the end of ,may1 and the ,romans resolved to celebrate1 from the #ith of the following ,june1 the festival of the patroness of ,roman millers1 and of her sisters1 the newly elected divinities2 the ceremony was worthy of those for whose apotheosis it was instituted1 and every year1 on the same day1 new rejoicings consecrated this great event4,,iii-#bc ,the mills ceased to turn and to grind1 a profound silence reigned in the mills2 the asses1 patient and indefatigable movers of an incessant rotation1 took a lively part1 whether or no1 in the festivals of which they became the principal actors4 ,these honest creatures' heads,,iii-#bd were crowned with roses1 and necklaces of little leaves encircled their necks and fell gracefully on their chests2,,iii-#be we need not add that1 on this day1 the thick bandages which generally covered the eyes of these useful labourers were removed4,,iii-#bf ,independently of this annual solemnity1 the asses1 turners of the mills1 had sometimes their windfalls1--that is to say1 hours of holiday1 during which they could freely graze on the neighbouring thistles4 ,this happened when an awkward slave performed badly the duties of fanning his master1 or spilt carelessly a few drops of ,falernian wine when filling his cup4 ,the unfortunate creature was immediately condemned to work at the mill2,,iii-#bg he was deprived of his name1 and received in lieu that of the quadruped he replaced--,asinus2,,iii-#bh and the instrument of his sufferings1 by a refinement of strange irony1 was called his manger4,,iii-#bi ,it sometimes happened that a free man1 reduced to extreme ,illustration3 ,pl4 #e4 ,,asinus ,,or ,,jumentari ,,mill4 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #f4 ,,plautus',s ,,mill4 indigence1 had recourse to this hard occupation1 in order to earn a living4 ,plautus was obliged to work at it1 and we know that he wrote some of his comedies during the short moments of leisure allowed him by his master the miller4,,iii-#cj ,an important modification was subsequently made in the mechanism of mills3 we mean hydraulic mills1 whose introduction into ,italy is of uncertain date1 although ,pomponius ,sabinus asserts 7but without proof71 that this discovery took place in the reign of ,julius ,csar4 ,they were known in ,rome at the time of the ,emperor ,augustus1 and ,vitruvius mentions them4,,iii-#ca ,more than sixty years afterwards1 ,pliny speaks of them as rare and extraordinary machines4,,iii-#cb ,some writers have thought that hydraul1 or hydromil1 watermills1 were invented by ,vitruvius1 and that this celebrated architect made experiments with them1 which were forgotten or neglected after his death4,,iii-#cc ,curious readers1 who are not afraid of the venerable dust with which time has covered many useful though despised books1 will consult with benefit the learned treatise of ,goetzius on the mills of the ancients1 printed in the year #agcj4;,,iii-#cd ,strabo1 who flourished under the ,emperor ,augustus1 tells us a watermill was to be seen near the town of ,cabire and the palace of ,mithridates4,,iii-#ce ,nevertheless1 this useful invention1 which we could not now dispense with1 made so little progress during four centuries that princes thought it a duty to protect1 by several laws1 those establishments1 still rare1 but which people began to appreciate4 ,honorius and ,arcadius decreed1 in #cih1 that any person who turned the water from mills for his own profit1 should be punished by a fine of five pounds weight in gold2 and that any magistrate encouraging such an act should pay a like sum4,,iii-#cf ,the ,emperor ,zeno,,iii-#cg maintained this law1 and rendered it still more stringent by adding1 that the edifices or land into which the water had been turned should be confiscated4,,iii-#ch ,it is to be regretted that the precise origin of the miller's profession cannot be traced2 but1 alas6 in almost all the arts which tend to preserve life1 we discover the same uncertainty3 we are ignorant of the period of their discovery1 and it frequently happens that but few traces of their development remain4 ,on the contrary1 the dates of battles1 or scourges which have decimated the human race1 are certain enough3 the stain of blood leaves an impression which can never be effaced4 ,in the midst of the conflicting opinions of the writers of antiquity1 what appears most probable is1 that watermills were invented in ,asia ,minor1 and that they were not really used in ,rome till the reign of ,honorius and ,arcadius4 ,under the rule of the ,emperor ,justinian1 when the ,goths besieged the ,roman city1,,iii-#ci the celebrated ,belisarius thought of constructing some on the ,tiber4 ,the means which he employed were simple and ingenious4 ,two boats firmly fixed1 at two feet distance from each other1 caused the stream to give a rapid motion to the hydraulic wheel1 suspended by its axle between these lateral points of support2 and this wheel turned the mills4,,iii-#dj ,this system differed but little from that of ,vitruvius1 which he described more than five centuries before1 and is explained in a few words4 ,a little wheel1 fixed to the axle of the hydraulic wheel1 turned a third wheel1 adhering to the axle of the upper grindstone1 and the corn fell between the two stones in passing from the hopper placed above4,,iii-#da ,these grindstones were made of a kind of porous lava1 which retained its roughness1 or rather1 its roughness was renewed1 by the continual friction4,,iii-#db ,the introduction of watermills1 however1 did not prevent the use of those worked by hand1 which habit1 cheapness1 and facility of removal recommended3 these antique mills of the ,hebrews1 the ,egyptians1 and the ,greeks of the heroic times1 were only five feet high4 ,each family was supplied with as many as they might require4 ,in the residence of ,ulysses1 that great king of little ,ithaca1 there were as many as twelve4 ,women turned the mills1 and were obliged to deliver a certain quantity of flour before leaving the task imposed on them4,,iii-#dc ,corn was at first ground in a portative hand mill2 by the ,britons1 women and young girls were employed in this kind of labour4,,iii-#dd ,it is1 however1 probable that watermills were known at a very early period in ,england4 ,strutt cites a passage from a charter by ,ulfere1 in #ffd1 which warrants the supposition4,,iii-#de ,it would be difficult to point out the precise date of the first employment of mills2 nevertheless1 ,somner informs us1 in his 8,antiquities of ,canterbury10,,iii-#df that the ,anglo-,normans of that place ground their corn4 8,there was10 says he1 8sometime a windmill standing neare the nonnery without ,ridingate1 which the hospitall held by the grant of the nonnes there3 the conditions mutually agreed upon1 at the time of the grant1 were that the nonnes1 bearing the fourth part of the charge of the mill1 should reap the fourth part of the profit of it1 c4 99 99 99 and this about the reign of ,king ,john40 ,the bran was separated from the flour by means of a sieve2 the dough was made1 and sent to the bakers to be baked4 ,the poor contented themselves with cakes baked under the ashes4,,iii-#dg ,something remains to be said of windmills4 ,we will say but little on the subject3 this aerial mechanism--which the knight-errant1 ,don ,quixote1 of imperishable memory1 thought it necessary to fight with sword and lance--was unknown before the ,christian era in any nation whose writers have transmitted to us the least traces of their civilisation2 but nothing proves that windmills were unknown to others4 ,this opinion seems to be well-founded1 from a passage of the chronicler ,winceslaus1 who relates1 in his 8,history of ,bohemia10 that the first watermill raised in that country was in the year of ,christ #gah1 and that no other was in use before 7antea7 but mills built on the summit of mountains1 which were put in motion by the wind4,,iii-#dh ,it appears1 then1 that there is some untruth in the assertion1 that this sort of mill was introduced into ,europe1 about the year #ajdj1 by the first ,crusaders1 on their return from the ,east4,,iii-#di ,at all events this question is no doubt very deserving the laborious search of the learned2 it has but a secondary interest for the gastrophilist4 ,it matters little to him whether he owes the grinding of his corn to the breath of a zephyr or to the slimy source of a river2 all he requires is good flour1 because it enters into a great number of culinary preparations--and1 first of all1 bread is made from it4 ,,iv4 ,,manipulation ,,of ,,flour4 ,man has not always eaten fine wheaten bread1 biscuits1 or sponge cakes2 and1 for many centuries1 the inexperience of his palate prevented his imagining or understanding those magiric combinations1 that science of good living1,,iv-#a which requires time and serious study4 ,nature makes us hungry2 art creates1 modifies1 and directs the appetite--these are incontestable truths1 which this work will serve to unfold1 and1 if necessary1 to prove1 should any of our readers unfortunately not be already convinced of the depth of these wise axioms4 ,let us go no further back than the year #bjjj before the ,christian era1 and enter together the tent of the father of nations--,abraham4 ,we might lead you to the fire-side of each of the nineteen patriarchs who preceded him1 but that would take us too far4 ,in the interior of this nomad dwelling1 ,sarah1 the venerable companion of the ,pastor-,king1 has just prepared1 with flour and water1 round pieces of flattened paste1 which she places on the hearth1 and covers afterwards with hot ashes4,,iv-#b ,it was thus that princes and servants made bread in the ,east4 ,the ,jewish people who inhabited the ,desert ate no other kind2,,iv-#c and the ,prophet ,elijah1 reposing under the shade of a juniper tree1 appeased his hunger with this simple and primitive food4,,iv-#d ,sometimes1 however1 at certain periods of solemnity1 the ,hebrews used a gridiron1 placed on the coals1 or a frying-pan1 into which they put the paste2,,iv-#e but these various modes of cooking produced a kind of cake1 dry1 thin1 and brittle1,,iv-#f somewhat like the ,jewish ,passover cake1 which was broken by the hand without the aid of a knife2,,iv-#g they were called lechem1 choice and chief food1,,iv-#h and the mother of the family generally renewed them each day4,,iv-#i ,the inhabitants of the ,east thought so much of bread1 that it was considered a special mark of regard and hospitality to the person to whom it was offered4,,iv-#aj ,boaz says to ,ruth3 8,at meal time come thou hither and eat of the bread1 and dip thy morsel in the vinegar40,,iv-#aa ,although the use of bread without leaven and baked under the ashes was common among the ,jews1,,iv-#ab it is nevertheless evident that they knew and employed1 at an early period1 some substance to raise the dough1 which they designated by the name of seor4 ,it was1 perhaps1 flour diluted with water left to get sour4 ,pliny assures us that of all means employed by the ancients to render bread savoury and light1 this is the most simple and easy4,,iv-#ac ,it appears not unlikely that the ,hebrews learned from the ,egyptians how to prepare the leaven they made use of4 ,the period at which an allusion is made to it for the first time1 in the ,bible1 renders this supposition likely4 ,it is when the people of ,god were about to escape from the slavery of the ,egyptians1 and are preparing to celebrate the ,passover1 on the eve of their setting out for the ,desert4,,iv-#ad ,the ,israelites1 therefore1 knew how to make bread more digestive and of better taste than is generally believed--not so good1 perhaps1 as our delicate fancy bread1 but better than the clumsy lumps of paste baked under the ashes1 in the frying-pan1 or on the gridiron4,,iv-#ae ,they had also ovens at a very distant period of their history--some four thousand years ago4,,iv-#af ,these ovens were made with bricks or clay2 afterwards they used iron and brass2,,iv-#ag but nothing in the ,holy ,writings shows us that any one exercised among them the trade of a baker1 at least at this early period1 nor1 indeed1 very much later4 ,the chief baker or butler1 whose punishment and death ,joseph foretold1 when he interpreted that officer's dream1 was an ,egyptian1 and belonged to ,king ,pharaoh4,,iv-#ah ,hitherto an infallible book has been our guide2 let us now dive into the dark and almost boundless regions of fabulous antiquity4 ,the most frightful god of which the fevered imagination of man could possibly form an idea--a god with the face and legs of a goat1 the horrible ,pan6--according to some credulous writers1 taught mortals the art of making and baking bread4 ,the name even of this food1 they say1 furnishes an incontestable proof of this assertion4,,iv-#ai ,you are mistaken1 reply more sensible writers2 it is in the ,greek word pan1 signifying all1 that we must seek the etymology of this nutritious substance1 which accompanies all other aliments1 takes their place if needful1 and agrees equally with all mankind4,,iv-#bj ,this1 one would think1 is conclusive2 but the learned1 the philologist1 and every ,procrustes of literature1 protests against a halt with so fair a field before him4 ,it is from the word pascere1,,iv-#ba proudly exclaims another interpreter1 that the substantive1 bread1 is derived4,,iv-#bb ,this word has been rather disfigured on its way3 think of the length of time it has been travelling down to us4 ,ceres taught the ,greeks how to cultivate corn2 they learned from ,megalarte and ,megalomaze how to knead flour and bake it in ovens4,,iv-#bc ,the gratitude of the ,botians erected statues and altars to their memories1 and shortly after1 ,greece could boast of having obtained the most skilful bakers in the world4 ,the bread of ,athens and ,megara had a well deserved reputation3 its whiteness dazzled the eye1 and its taste was exquisite4,,iv-#bd ,this voluptuous and fickle nation very soon began to tire of so intelligent and simple a manipulation1 and must needs mix with the paste a host of ingredients which greatly altered its flavour3 and seventy-two different sorts of bread,,iv-#be took birth from the scientific association of milk1 oil1 honey1 cheese1 and wine with the best flour4,,iv-#bf ,all these varieties were called by the generic name of artos1 bread2 to which was added an epithet which prevented the mistaking of one kind for another4 ,the bread-market at ,athens was very amusing2 women 7for the fair sex busied themselves with this trade7 waited1 seated1 by the side of their baskets until ,mercury should send them customers1 and woe to those who came late1 or whose evil genius led them to find fault with either the quality1 quantity1 or price of the goods4 ,have you ever heard the ladies of ,billingsgate playing off their pleasant jokes on a timid countryman1 or a foreigner1 whose accent had betrayed him8 ,it is a running fire of puns and crude picturesque expressions which nothing can resist2 our ,greek market-women would have been more than a match for them--can we bestow upon them greater praise8,,iv-#bg ,some of them sold azumos1 a delicate sort of biscuit1 but rather tasteless1 prepared without leaven2,,iv-#bh others--irresistible syrens--invited children to taste of the relishing artolaganos1 in which a renowned baker had the talent of introducing wine1 pepper1 oil1 and milk4,,iv-#bi ,here the sparkling eyes of a rich epicurean were on the look out for some escarites1 a very light paste1 seasoned with new sweet wine and honey1,,iv-#cj and which was relished even by fatigued appetites at the close of a repast4,,iv-#ca ,the poorer people made their choice among heaps of dolyres1 or typhes3 they were coarse compounds of rye and barley2,,iv-#cb the ladies of fashion 7petites maitresses7 preferred the puff cakes called placites1,,iv-#cc or the sweet melitutes1 whose exquisite and perfumed flour was delicately kneaded with the precious honey of ,mount ,hymettus4,,iv-#cd ,lastly1 the robust workman of the ,pyrus bought the tyrontes1 bread mixed with cheese1,,iv-#ce which the higher classes of society in ,athens abhorred1 and which even the middling classes excluded from their tables4 ,let us add to this imperfect enumeration1 that the ,greeks baked their bread in several different manners3 some in ovens1 others under ashes1 over charcoal1 or between two pieces of iron1 similar to our gauffre moulds1 and under a bell1 or cover of some metal with a rim round the top1 and fire over it4,,iv-#cf ,for making a batch of bread1 they employed nine pounds six ounces of leaven to twelve bushels of flour4,,iv-#cg ,with regard to their ovens1 in the construction of which they excelled1 they always took particular care to place them near a handmill1,,iv-#ch in order that the various processes that the wheat had to undergo should take place with ease and promptitude4 ,the ,romans were for a long time ,pultiphagists1 or eaters of gruel1 c42,,iv-#ci and it would be difficult to ascertain with accuracy the precise period at which they gave a preference to bread2 they no doubt knew of it before the year #cfe of ,rome1 for1 at the siege of the ,capitol by the ,gauls1 ,jupiter1 who protected the besieged1 thought of nothing better to get them out of their difficulties than to appear at night to their general1 ,manlius1 and to give him the following advice3 8,make10 said he1 8bread with all the flour you have left in store1 and throw it to the enemy to show them that ,rome has no apprehension of being reduced by famine40 ,this stratagem1 worthy of a ,merry ,andrew1 pleased ,manlius so much1 that he immediately put it into execution4 ,the ,gauls fled1 ,master ,jupiter was highly delighted with the trick he had played1 and thereby the ,romans got rid of this swarm of barbarians4,,iv-#dj ,whether this little story be true or not1 the people of ,romulus had a decided taste for gruel2 it was a national dish1 and was only discontinued to be given to the soldiers1 defenders of the republic1 when it was perceived that their laborious duties required more substantial food4,,iv-#da ,the ,romans made their gruel of all kinds of flour4 ,king ,numa 7#agae ,b4,c471 guided by the advice of the nymph1 ,egeria1 taught his subjects the art of parching corn1 of converting it into flour by means of mortars1 and of making that gruel with which he liked to regale himself4 ,this good prince was rather fond of interfering in what did not concern him1 and the royal compound was afterwards cooked in the public bakehouses1 which the piety of the sovereign placed under the protection of the powerful ,fornax1 a goddess unknown till then1 and who soon became the object of general and fervent worship4,,iv-#db ,there is but one step from gruel to bread3 the ,romans perceived it4 ,thus this favourite dish lost its reputation1 and the worship of ,fornax somewhat cooled4 ,but1 on the other hand1 there was still the smell of cakes on all sides2 cooking on the hearth1 on the coals1 in small bell-stoves1 and in large baking pans1 until ultimately they became acquainted with the use of ovens4,,iv-#dc ,at last1 ,rome began to have them built1 under the reign of ,tarquinius ,superbus1 about #fcj years before the ,christian era4 ,they were solid constructions1 immoveable1 and very like those of the present day4,,iv-#dd ,men were employed to keep up the necessary degree of heat2 and their useful profession 7thanks to the strange caprices which so tyrannically rule the social hierarchy7 became one of the vilest and most sordid occupations in the capital of the world4,,iv-#de ,these ovens were ordered to be built far away from all edifices1 in order to prevent accidents by fire2,,iv-#df an excellent precaution1 where so many incautious and merry old gossips came daily to bake their bread4 ,once there1 those worthy plebeians amused themselves by giving full scope to their noisy fun1 slandering their neighbours freely and charitably1 telling each other all the little scandal they had picked up here and there1 among the good souls in their neighbourhood4 ,hence these public places of labour and incessant babbling were called the 8gossip bakehouses40,,iv-#dg ,these joyous meetings continued until the arrival of ,greek bakers1 #agj years ,b4,c41 who followed the victorious armies of the republic on their return from ,macedonia4,,iv-#dh ,these new operatives effected a complete revolution in the art of making bread3 they reformed the taste of their masters1 and1 by degrees1 the proverbial frugality of the conquerors of the universe gave way to the exquisite researches and wonderful delicacies of those whom they had subdued4 ,the ,romans perceived the importance of perpetuating the talent of these strangers1 and converting it eventually into a national industry4 ,with these views1 they gave them ,roman colleagues1 and subsequently they were formed into a college1 or sort of association1 which no member could quit on any pretext whatever4 ,the son followed his father's profession1 and he who married the daughter of a baker became one himself4,,iv-#di ,sometimes one of these privileged artisans was raised to the dignity of senator1 as an honour to his colleagues2 but in that case he was required to abandon his fortune to the person who took his place2 he might1 however1 decline the dignity1 and remain at his kneading-trough4,,iv-#ej ,all alliances with gladiators and comedians were interdicted them2 and the law decreed that the delinquent guilty of such dishonour should be first scourged1 then banished1 and that his property should be confiscated for the benefit of the community4,,iv-#ea ,finally1 the prodigal baker was assimilated with the dishonest bankrupt1 and expelled the college4,,iv-#eb ,the above details on some of the dispositions of the law regarding this interesting corporation1 sufficiently prove the importance that the ,roman government attached to it1 and wished it should always maintain4 ,the bakers of ,rome received from the public granaries whatever they required1 at a price fixed by the magistrate4 ,if the officer charged with the distribution of it gave a bad quality1 or exacted a bribe to supply good corn1 that officer was disgraced1 and he became forever a journeyman baker4,,iv-#ec ,independently of public bakeries1 the number of which reached #cbi under the reign of ,augustus1 there were also1 in the houses of the wealthy1 slaves whose sole occupation was the making of bread1 and these slaves brought an exorbitant price when they excelled in their art4,,iv-#ed ,they used portable ovens1 made of iron or earthenware1 under which they placed red-hot coals4 ,sometimes they employed a round brass vessel with a cover1 which was put under the flames4 ,in the houses where the greatest luxury reigned1 they had a kind of silver mould1 from which the bread was taken1 and served to the guests4,,iv-#ee ,it is absolutely necessary to dive into the private life of the ,roman people1 and not to neglect any of their domestic customs 7accounts of which are scattered here and there1 in the writings of the more serious historians1 and among the dangerous frivolities of certain poets71 if we wish to have a correct idea of the excessive refinement which the opulent classes evinced1 even in the most ordinary things4 ,modern nations are satisfied with the bread more or less white1 and even bear1 without much complaint1 certain illicit mixtures1 in which various heterogeneous substances are sometimes strangely amalgamated2 but this was not the case in ,rome4 ,the prefect of provisions 7prfectus annon7 was scrupulously careful to see that the supply of bread was abundant2 that it was of exact weight2 that the manipulation of it was excellent2 and that it was made of the best flour the public granaries contained4 ,as we have already observed1 that was one of the most serious cares of the government on behalf of a people who only required two things--bread and the circus1,,iv-#ef and whose ferocity1 when pressed by hunger1 knew no bounds4,,iv-#eg ,they studied carefully every modification that the art of baking might seem to require3 they examined the leaven in use1 and experimented with new kinds4 ,the following are the compositions ,pliny has transmitted to us3-- ,the ,romans thought much of millet for their leaven2 they mixed it with sweet wine1 in which they let it ferment a year4 ,they employed1 also1 wheat bran1 soaked for three days in sweet white wine1 and dried in the sun4 ,of this they diluted a certain quantity at the time of making bread1 which was left to ferment in the best wheat flour1 and afterwards mixed with the entire mass4 ,the leavens just mentioned were made during the vintage2 the rest of the year they were replaced by the following3--,a dish containing two pounds of barley paste was placed on red-hot coals1 and heated until ebulition commenced4 ,it was put into vessels till it became sour4 ,very often leaven was procured from dough just made4 ,a piece was taken from the mass previous to salt being added2 it was then left to turn sour1 and might be used the next day4 ,the celebrated naturalist who supplies these details1 tells us that1 in his time1 the ,gauls and ,spaniards1 after having made a drink from wheat1 saved the scum to raise the dough1 and that their bread was the lightest of all4,,iv-#eh ,it would be difficult to form an idea of the prodigious luxury which ,rome introduced into an aliment so common1 and of such universal use as bread4 ,its name1 its form1 and flavour indicated the various ranks of society to which it belonged4,,iv-#ei ,there was the senator's bread1 that of the knights1 of the citizens1 of the people1 and that of the peasants4,,iv-#fj ,let us go together under the vast galleries supported by those magnificent arcades4,,iv-#fa ,the ediles have preceded us2 they are visiting the shops2,,iv-#fb it is the ,forum ,pistrinum1 or bread-market4 ,the year is good3 a septier 7five bushels7 of wheat is only twenty-five shillings1,,iv-#fc and provisions of all kinds abound in ,rome4 ,foreigners1 also1 are here1 attracted by curiosity2 for ,vespasian is preparing to deposit with solemnity the spoils of ,jerusalem in the temple of ,peace4,,iv-#fd ,in the middle of the inclosure you see the statue of ,vesta1 the goddess worshipped by bakers4,,iv-#fe ,in the front1 and round the gallery1 those open stalls are loaded with a number of round loaves of the same form and weight3 they are all five inches in thickness2 the top is divided by eight notches--that is to say1 they are first divided across1 and the four parts are again subdivided4,,iv-#ff ,these lines are made in the dough1 so that they may be more easily broken4 ,the ,roman gentry and shopkeepers give the preference to this sort of household bread1 simply composed of flour1 water1 and salt4,,iv-#fg ,you perceive1 here and there1 several baskets1 full of heavy biscuits2 they are called autopyron2 it is a coarse1 black food1 composed of bran mixed with a little flour1 and made expressly for the dogs and slaves4,,iv-#fh ,do you see that colossal-looking man1 with enormous limbs1 who is walking about with an air of stupidity1 and whose small head is covered with scars8 ,the dealers know his profession1 and one of them offers him the athlet's bread2 it is kneaded1 without leaven1 with soft1 white curd cheese1 and is a coarse1 heavy food1 which that class of people seem to partake of with great delight4,,iv-#fi ,that stout baker before us occupies two of the most spacious shops in the market1 on the left of the statue2 he is one of the richest members of the corporation1 and is the principal purveyor for the camp and army4 ,those large sacks1 placed before him with so much symmetry1 contain the buccellatum biscuit1 or dried bread for the troops4,,iv-#gj ,his neighbour 7called the ,greek71 was born at ,athens2 he is the fashionable purveyor to the princes1 senators1 and sybarites of ,rome4 ,no one understands so well as himself the art of mixing salt1 oil1 and milk with the best wheaten flour2 an exquisite combination1 which produces the celebrated bread of ,cappadocia1 served only on the tables of the wealthy4,,iv-#ga ,with the artoplites1 a light bread1 made with the best wheaten flour1 and baked in a mould1 it is the only kind of which refined persons can partake4,,iv-#gb ,if we were not afraid of tiring you1 we could point out many other sorts of bread which abound in the ,forum ,pistrinum1 for there is some for all tastes and classes1 from the artopticii1 baked in moulds1,,iv-#gc a most nutritious and digestive bread1 down to the furfuraceus1 a mass of indigestible bran that the wildest savages among the ,scythians could not have swallowed with impunity4 ,we should have spoken to you of the astrologicus bread1 the paste of which is similar to that we use in our days to make fritters1 commonly called batter4 ,also of the cacabaceus1 which is indebted for its agreeable and spicy flavour to the water1 which is previously boiled in a kind of bronzed stewpan2 and the siligineus bread1 made of the best flour4 ,its manipulation is difficult and tedious2 no matter--the epicurean prefers it1 when1 by chance1 he happens to be hungry4,,iv-#gd ,neither ought we to forget the panis madidus1 a species of paste made of milk and flour1 with which the fashionable ladies and effeminate dandies covered their faces before going to bed1 to preserve the freshness and beauty of their complexion4,,iv-#ge ,but this enumeration may appear to you idle and endless2 let us1 therefore1 leave the market and assist at the distribution of bread civilis among the people1 of which thirteen ounces is given to each person2,,iv-#gf we will then give a rapid glance at the various other cereals besides wheat1 which1 in some shape or other1 are converted into food4 ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,vii4 ,,bread4--,no4 #a4 ,in ,herculaneum there were found two entire loaves of the same dimension1 being #ac inches in diameter1 and #c inches thick4 ,each had eight divisions cut on the top1 that is to say1--a cross was first marked1 and between each1 another division was made2 some had stamps on the top4 ,no4 #b4 ,at ,pompeii1 in a shop near the ,pantheon1 were discovered bronze moulds for pastry and bread4 ,no4 #c4 ,the ,cappadocia bread1 made in a mould1 found at ,pompeii4 ,no4 #d4 ,the mould for the above4 ,the customs of the middle ages cannot be better illustrated than by adding the following curious notes3 ,the ,norman kings subjected the bakers to very severe laws with ,illustration3 ,pl4 #g4 respect to the weight and price of bread4 ,the first offence was punished by the confiscation of their bread2 the second by a fine2 and the third by the pillory4,,iv-#gg ,saint ,louis made statutes for the bakers of ,paris4 ,he forbade them to bake on ,sunday or any festival day1 under pain of a fine of eighteen sous 7about eight pence71 and a certain quantity of bread4 ,but he gave them permission to open their shops and sell every day of the year without exception4,,iv-#gh ,in the #agth century1 a new regulation was made concerning bakers2 they were to bake 8daily1 and have always on sale three kinds of bread1 viz41 that known as pain de chalis1 of twelve ounces2 pain de chapitre1 of ten ounces2 and brownish household bread1 of sixteen ounces4 ,the price of each to be douze deniers 7a halfpenny71 marked by the baker with his own particular mark40 ,they were also permitted to make 8rolls and other sorts10 but not to expose them for sale 8under pain of being fined four hundred ,paris livres 7a little more than twelve pounds sterling740,,iv-#gi ,master-bakers were admitted at ,paris1 in the #adth century1 in the following manner3-- ,when a young man had been successively winnower1 sifter1 kneader1 and foreman1 he could1 by paying a certain amount to the king as legiance money1 become an aspirant-baker1 and commence business on his own account4 ,four years after1 he was received as master by going through certain formalities4 ,on a given day1 he set out from his house1 followed by all the bakers of the town1 and repaired to the residence of the master of the bakers1 to whom he presented a new pot filled with nuts1 saying3 8,master1 ,i have accomplished my four years2 here is my pot of nuts40 ,then the master of the bakers asked the secretary of the trade whether that were true1 and having received a reply in the affirmative1 the master of the bakers returned the pot to the aspirant1 who broke it against the wall1 and was at once reckoned amongst the masters4 ,let us reckon up the different kinds of bread that were in use at that epoch3 ,the bread made simply with flour1 water1 salt1 and yeast--the common bread2 the best was made at ,chailly or ,gonesse4 ,the bread cooked in hot water--pain chaud 7in ,england1 we should call it baked dumpling74 ,the bread made of the finest flour1 beaten a long time with two sticks--pounded bread4 ,the bread made of the very finest and purest flour 7biscuit flour7 slightly baked--roll bread4 ,the bread made of fine flour1 kneaded with butter1 and sprinkled with whole wheat--sheep bread4 ,the bread made of fine flour1 eggs and milk--,christmas bread4 ,and lastly1 rye bread1 kneaded with spice1 honey1 or sugar--gingerbread4,,iv-#hj ,v4 ,,frumenta4 ,do not be alarmed1 fair readers1 at the ,latin noun which heads this chapter3 tolerate it in consideration of our promise seldom to solicit a like favour4 ,it meant1 among the ,latins1 all the plants which produce ears of corn1,v-#a the seeds of which can be converted into flour4,v-#b ,clearly there never was a more innocent expression4 ,barley seems to claim the first place among cereals of the second order2 the ,greeks looked upon it as the happy symbol of fertility1,v-#c and the ancient inhabitants of ,italy gave it a name 7hordeum7 which1 perhaps1 recalled to their mind the use mankind made of it before wheat was known 7exordium74,v-#d ,the ,jews had a great esteem for barley1 and sacred history generally assimilates it to wheat1 when the fruits of the earth are mentioned4 ,thus a beloved spot produces both these plants3,v-#e ,shobi offered to ,david wheat and barley2,v-#f and ,solomon promises twenty thousand sacks of wheat and as much barley to the workmen charged with cutting down the cedars of ,lebanon4,v-#g ,the ,greeks and ,romans did not carry their love for this grain so far as the ,hebrews4 ,in ,rome it was the food of the flocks and cowards4,v-#h ,in ,lacedmon and at ,athens the gladiators and common people had no other aliment2,v-#i they made it into barley-gruel 7alphiton71 the composition of which was very simple1 and would not probably tempt a modern ,lucullus4 ,here is the recipe of this ancient and national dish3-- ,dry1 near the fire or in the oven1 twenty pounds of barley flour1 then parch it4 ,add three pounds of linseed meal1 half a pound of coriander seed1 two ounces of salt1 and the quantity of water necessary4,v-#aj ,to this mixture of ingredients the ,italian epicureans added a little millet1 so as to give the paste more cohesion and delicacy4,v-#aa ,this culinary preparation must appear rather unworthy of those nations who so completely eclipsed all the gastronomic glories of the universe2 wherefore let us hasten to reinstate them as men of taste and exquisite intelligence1 by citing a more learned combination1 which obtained the judicious patronage of the ,archestrates and ,apicii3-- ,take pearl barley1 pound it in a mortar1 make use of the flour only1 and put it in a saucepan2 pour on it by degrees some of the best oil2 with that certainty which science alone gives to the hand1 and stir it carefully1 whilst a slow1 equal fire performs the great work of cookery4 ,be1 above all1 attentive to enrich it1 at proper intervals1 with a delicate gravy extracted from a young fat chicken or from a succulent lamb4 ,unceasingly watch1 lest the ebullition1 by going on too rapidly1 force this delightful mixture to overflow the side of the vessel2 and when your practised palate informs you that it is worthy of your guests1 present it to their impatient sensuality4,v-#ab ,so it appears the ancients were acquainted with pearl barley1 and barley water2 the latter took the name of diet drink 7ptisana71 which we only associate with melancholy reminiscences4,v-#ac ,hippocrates was not only in raptures with the virtues and properties of this aliment1,v-#ad but he also conferred the highest praise on that sweet and insipid drink1 which our doctors order their patients1 as did the oracle of ,cos1 and which at that time was called 8barley broth40,v-#ae ,oats occupied an honourable place after barley4 ,pliny fancied these two plants so analogous1 that the owner of a field who had sown barley might find oats at the time of harvest1 whilst precisely the reverse might happen to his neighbour4,v-#af ,nature1 in our days1 is not subject to such frolics2 and our farmers are tolerably certain that1 by care1 labour1 and ,god's assistance1 they will gather from the soil what they have sown4 8,in order to develop a strong flavour of vanille in black oats1 wash this seed1 boil it a moment in water1 and employ the decoction as you would potato flour1 and it will form excellent creams4 8,in ,normandy and ,lower ,britany they make with flour of oats a delicious soup4 ,the following is the manner they obtain it4 ,they take white oats and put them in the oven2 when sufficiently dried1 they are fanned1 cleaned1 and carried to a mill1 the grinders of which are freshly sharpened4 ,the miller takes care to hold them a little way off1 in order that they may not crush the grain1 and that this last may preserve the shape of rice2 by this means they remove the whole of the pellicle40--,,parmentier4 ,the ,greeks and ,romans knew how to appreciate oatmeal3,v-#ag they used it to make a kind of gruel1 such as we have already described1 and also a substantial thick milk1 which they prepared as we do4,v-#ah ,rice was also held in great esteem by them3 they considered it as a food very beneficial to the chest2 therefore it was recommended in cases of consumption1 and to persons subject to spitting of blood4,v-#ai ,millet1 so called from the multiplicity of its seeds1,v-#bj abounded more particularly in ,gaul1 in the time of ,strabo4,v-#ba ,pliny pretends that no grain swells so much in cooking1 and he assures us that sixty pounds of bread was obtained from a single bushel of millet1 weighing only twenty pounds4,v-#bb ,this naturalist also speaks of another kind of millet1 coming originally from ,india1 and which had only been in cultivation ten years in ,italy4 ,the stalk resembled that of the reed1 and often attained the height of ten feet2 its fecundity was such that a single grain produced innumerable ears of corn2,v-#bc therefore1 if so prolific1 and capable of making good and economical food1 why should it not be1 in #aheh1 cultivated largely wherever the climate may allow it8 ,some writers place ,panic ,grass among the wheats1 because certain nations made bread of it4,v-#bd ,the higher classes of ,rome and ,athens always resisted this bad taste4 ,they preferred spelt1 or red wheat1 a super-excellent grain1,v-#be which was much honoured by the ,latins1 if we can credit the charming letter1 written by ,pliny the younger1 to ,septilius ,clarus1 on the occasion of a dinner1 where the latter failed to join the guests4 ,among other delicate dishes with which he desired to treat his friend1 he had ordered a spelt cake to be made4,v-#bf ,this same flour was the base of the ,carthaginian pudding2 which the reader may taste if he will1 here is the recipe3-- ,,carthaginian ,,pudding4--,put a pound of red wheat flour into water2 when it has soaked some time1 place it in a wooden bowl1 add three pounds of cream cheese1 half a pound of honey1 and one egg2 beat this mixture well together1 and cook it on a slow fire in a stewpan4,v-#bg ,should this dish not be sufficiently delicate1 try the following3-- ,when you have sifted some spelt flour1 put it in a wooden vessel1 with some water1 which you must renew twice a day for ten days4 ,at the end of that time squeeze out all the water1 and place the paste in another vessel2 reduce it to the consistence of thick lees1 pass it through a piece of new linen1 and repeat this last operation2 dry it in the sun1 and then boil it in milk4,v-#bh ,as regards the exact seasoning of this exquisite ,roman dish1 it is your own genius which must inspire you with the proportions4 ,let us not omit to notice the ,erupmon of the ,greeks1 the ,irion of the ,latins1 the ,indian ,wheat of the moderns4 ,this plant produces a wholesome and easily digestible food2 it was well known in ,italy in the time of ,pliny1,v-#bi at which period the peasants used to make a crisp sort of heavy bread1 probably somewhat similar to that which is still used in the south of ,france4 ,since the famine of #ahdg great attention has been paid to this flour2 much was imported into ,england from ,america1 where it is used in domestic economy2 when green1 its milky pulp is an excellent food3 the various advantages of this flour1 however1 are not sufficiently developed to give all the benefit of its goodness to the world2 habit and prejudice assist materially to prevent its being generally employed4 ,the ,romans also ate it as hasty-pudding1 parched or roasted1 with a little salt4 ,a writer equally remarkable for his elegant and easy style1 as well as for the justness of his observations1 informs us that1 in our days1 the ,indian inhabitants of the unfruitful plains of ,marwar never dress ,indian corn in any other way4,v-#cj ,such are the principal graminea which the ancients thought worthy of their attention1 or allowed to appear on their tables1 with more or less honour according to the degree of esteem in which they were held4 ,it is probable that the cooks in the great gastronomic period of ,rome and ,athens1 who knew so well the capricious nature of their masters' palates1,v-#ca had to borrow from magiric chemistry1 then so flourishing1 some wonderful means of giving to various kinds of cereals a culinary value they now no longer possess--what might we not expect from a ,thimbron1,v-#cb a ,mithoecus1,v-#cc a ,soterides8,v-#cd ,this latter performed a feat which does him too much honour to be unnoticed here4 ,the ,king of ,bithynia1 ,nicomedes1 was taken with a strange1 invincible1 and imperious longing which admitted of no delay2 he ordered his cook1 ,soterides1 to be sent for1 and commanded him to prepare instantly a dish of loaches4 8,loaches1 ,sire60 cried the skilful1 yet terrified cook2 8by all the gods1 protectors of the kingdom1 where can ,i procure these fish at this late hour of the night80 ,kings ill brook resistance to their will4,v-#ce ,nicomedes was not celebrated for patience when pressed by hunger4 8,give me loaches1 ,i say10 replied he1 with a hollow and terrible voice2 8or else----0 and his clear1 fearful1 pantomimic expression made the unfortunate cook understand too well that he must either obey or immediately deliver up his head to the provost of the palace4 ,the alternative was embarrassing2 nevertheless1 ,soterides thought how to get out of the scrape4 ,he shut himself up in his laboratory1 peeled some long radishes1 and with extraordinary address gave them the form of the fatal fish1 seasoning them with oil1 salt1 black pepper1 and doubtless several other ingredients1 the secret of which the illustrious chef has not handed down to posterity4 ,then1 holding in his hand a dish of irreproachable-looking fried fish1 he boldly presented himself before the prince1 who was walking up and down with hasty strides awaiting his arrival4 ,the ,king of the ,bithynians ate up the whole1 and the next day he condescended to inform his court that he never had loaches served he so much liked4,v-#cf ,this digression1 which the reader will kindly pardon1 sufficiently shows to what height the art of ancient cookery was carried1 and of which this work will furnish new and abundant proofs4 ,the cereals having had so much of our attention1 we have now to consider those grains or seeds which serve as the bases or necessary adjuncts to different dishes4 ,,vi4 ,,grains3 ,,seeds4 ,one of the most important was ,mustard seed4 ,pythagoras maintains 7and no one has contradicted his assertion7 that this seed occupied the first rank amongst alimentary substances which exercise a prompt influence on the brain4,,vi-#a ,indeed the ancients attributed to it the same qualities that we do at the present day4 ,mustard1 according to their opinion1 excites the appetite1 gives piquancy to meat1 strengthens the stomach1 and facilitates digestion4 ,it is better suited1 say they1 to bilious constitutions than to lymphatic persons2 and they recommended its use in summer1 rather than in winter4,,vi-#b ,the good ,pliny1 always disposed to adopt1 without much examination1 any stories1 provided they were but slightly exaggerated1 was convinced1 and affirms1 with his accustomed good humour1 that this plant is a sovereign remedy against the bite of the most venomous serpents3 it is only necessary to apply it to the wound4 ,and1 again1 if taken inwardly1 there is nothing to fear from the poisonous effects of certain mushrooms4,,vi-#c ,the doctors of the #aith century are1 apparently1 little inclined to adopt the method recommended by the worthy naturalist4 ,mustard seed is only mentioned in the ,bible as a term of comparison2 its alimentary qualities are nowhere indicated4,,vi-#d ,the ,romans1 and other nations after them1 fermented this seed in new sweet wine4 ,it is from this1 perhaps1 we must seek for the origin of the word mustard1 8mustum ardens0 7burning wine7,,vi-#e2 some gastronomic writers give it another derivation1 not generally adopted4 ,this condiment1 say they1 was formerly called sauve or senev4 ,it was only towards the close of the #adth century that this name was changed4 ,philip the ,bold1 ,duke of ,burgundy1 marching against the inhabitants of ,ghent1 who had revolted from him1 and the city of ,dijon having supplied him for this expedition with a thousand men-at-arms1 the prince1 in gratitude1 granted to that city1 amongst other privileges1 that of bearing his arms1 with his motto1 8,moult me tarde40 ,the whole of this was carved on the principal gate of ,dijon1 but an accident having destroyed the middle word1 the two others moult tarde caused many a smile at the expense of the ,dijonnais2 and as they traded in senev 7mustard71 this grain was called in derision moutarde1 when it came from ,dijon1 a name it has preserved ever since4,,vi-#f ,if this etymology is not true1 at least it is ingenious4 ,coriander1 amongst the ,romans1 appears to have possessed the same property as mustard1 that is to say1 they considered it was strengthening and digestive4,,vi-#g ,they employed it also in a very useful manner during the great heat of summer3 they mixed it with vinegar1 after it had been well bruised or pounded1 and laid it over any kind of meat1 which this coating preserved in a perfect state of freshness4,,vi-#h ,pliny classifies the bitter seed of the ,lupin as a grain pertaining to that of wheat2,,vi-#i and if you soak it1 he says1 in boiling water1 it becomes so mild that it can be eaten4,,vi-#aj ,zeno1 of ,citium1 was of the same opinion4 ,this philosopher1 with all his wisdom1 could not help showing his bad temper1 even towards his best friends at times1 but was very affable after he had quaffed several cups of delicious wine4 ,one day he was asked for an explanation of this contrast in his temper4 8,that is very simple10 he replied2 8,i am of the same nature as the lupins3 their bitterness is insupportable before they are soaked1 but they are of an exquisite mildness when they have been well steeped40,,vi-#aa ,we strongly doubt1 nevertheless1 whether this plant has ever been honoured by the patronage of connoisseurs and people of delicate taste2 a very high authority in cookery--,lycophon1 of ,chalcis--used to say1 with a kind of disdain1 that this despicable plant was hardly good enough for the common fare of the mob1 or to feast the guests at a beggar's table4,,vi-#ab ,it was principally used as food for cattle1 and not without reason1 if it be true that twenty pounds of lupins are sufficient to fatten an ox4,,vi-#ac ,the lovers of etymology1 who may be classified in the family of readers of logogriphs1 were in raptures at finding the following3 8,the ,latin name of ,lupinus has been given to this grain because the lupin wears out and destroys the land nearly as the wolf destroys and devours the flocks2 whereupon they exclaimed1 with pride1 #8,lupinus lupo6'nbsp20,,vi-#ad ,at the period when the gods did not exact much1 but were contented with humble offerings1 men placed on the altars loaves made of ,linseed meal2 a treat the immortals gratefully accepted1 though certainly it would not much tempt us,,vi-#ae of the present day4 ,the ,asiatics afterwards thought of pounding the linseed1 frying it1 and mixing it with honey2 these cakes seemed to them too good for their divinities1 so they ate them themselves4,,vi-#af ,in the time of ,pliny1 the ,lombards and ,piedmontese ate this miserable bread of the gods1 and even found in it a most agreeable flavour3,,vi-#ag these nations have since improved their taste4 ,shall we mention ,hempseed1 the ,cannabis of the ancients1 which was served fried for dessert8,,vi-#ah ,that hemp should be spun and made into ropes1 well and good2 but to regale one's-self with it after dinner1--when the stomach is overloaded with food1 and hardly moved from its lethargic quietude by the appearance of the most provoking viands that art can invent--what depravity6 ,what strange perversion of the most simple elements of gastronomy6 ,the ,arabs1 that wandering nation1 who are not yet acquainted with the roasting-spit1 nor the voluptuousness of a delicious repast1 formerly intoxicated themselves with a beverage extracted from linseed2,,vi-#ai we1 who are in possession of generous wine1 let us deplore such excesses1 and not imitate them4 ,,vii4 ,,vegetables4 ,all nations have sown vegetables1 and judged them worthy of their particular attention2 sometimes they have even confounded many of these plants with the cereals1 because they were converted into flour and bread1,,vii-#a especially in time of famine4,,vii-#b ,after the ,deluge1 when ,god made a covenant with ,noah he said1 with respect to the food of man3--8,even as the green herb have ,i given you all things2,,vii-#c0 and1 subsequently to that epoch1 the holy writers frequently demonstrate1 in their simple and interesting style1 the various uses which the ,hebrews made of vegetables4 ,esau1 pressed by hunger1 sold his birth-right to ,jacob for a dish of lentils4,,vii-#d ,among the presents which ,david received from ,shobi1 were beans1 lentils1 and parched pulse4,,vii-#e ,the four ,hebrew children were fed with vegetables1 at the court of ,nebuchadnezzar1 ,king of ,babylon4,,vii-#f ,it is sufficient1 we think1 to indicate these passages1 without uselessly increasing the number4 ,the heroes of ,homer1 those men covered with iron and brass1 whose terrible blows dealt death and desolation1 reposed after their exploits1 partaking of a dish of beans or a plate of peas4,,vii-#g ,happy simplicity of the ,homeric ages6 ,patrocles peeled onions6 ,achilles washed cabbages6 and the wise ,ulysses roasted1 with his own hands1 a sirloin of beef6 ,one day the son of ,thetis received under his tent a deputation sent by the ,greeks1 to entreat him to be friends with ,agamemnon4 ,the young hero1 who could only be accused of a little pride and passion1 invited these worthy personages to dinner1 and1 with the assistance of his friend1 gave them a magnificent banquet1 in which vegetables occupied a most conspicuous place4,,vii-#h ,sixteen ,greek authors have devoted their vigils to profound researches concerning the qualities of these useful plants2 their works have not been transmitted to us1 but their names are to be found inscribed in the gastronomic treasure which ,athenus--that grammarian1 philosopher1 and epicurean--has bequeathed to the meditations of posterity4,,vii-#i ,but it is principally with the ,romans that this interesting branch of the magiric art flourished4 ,they have told us that this great family of herbs took the name of vegetables 7legumina71 because they were chosen and picked by the hand2,,vii-#aj and their most celebrated horticulturists have prided themselves on the preparation of the ground to which they were confided1 on the attention which they claimed1 and on the ,hygeian virtues which experience attributed to them4 ,heathen theology1 too1 consecrated several of them to the solemnities of their religion1 and some nations even considered them worthy of their homage and the fumes of incense4,,vii-#aa ,virgil himself seems to regret his inability to sing of gardens and vegetables4 ,perhaps a rapid sketch of what the great poet says on this subject1 may not be misplaced here4 8,si mon vaisseau long-temps gar loin du bord1 ,ne se htait enfin de regagner le port1 ,peut-tre je peindrais les ,ciens chris de ,flore2 ,le ,narcisse en mes vers s'empresserait d'clore1 ,les roses m'ouvriraient leurs calices brillants1 ,le tortueux concombre arrondirait ses flancs2 ,du persil toujours vert1 des ples chicores ,ma muse abreuverait les tiges altres1 ,je courberais le lierre et l'acanthe en berceau1 ,et du myrthe amoureux j'ombragerais les eaux40,,vii-#ab ,one more fact will serve to show to what extent the ,romans carried their enthusiastic affection for leguminous plants3 we know that illustrious families did not disdain to borrow their names from them4 ,the appellations1 ,fabius1 ,cicero1 and ,lentulus1 thus enhanced the humble renown of beans 7faba71 peas 7cicer arietinum71 and lentils 7lenticula74,,vii-#ac ,the eminent orator we have just named gave the preference one day to a dish of beet-root1 instead of oysters and lampreys1 of which he was passionately fond4,,vii-#ad ,it is true that1 since the promulgation of the ,licinian law1,,vii-#ae which allowed but little meat and plenty of vegetables1 the voluptuaries of ,rome invented most astonishing ragouts of mushrooms and pot-herbs4 ,so true is it that the genius of man develops itself more particularly under difficult circumstances1 and that the art of cookery owes1 perhaps1 the perfection and glory which it has attained to the impediments with which its formidable enemy1 frugality1 seems always ready to surround it4 ,apicius1 that profound culinary chemist1 who nobly expended immense treasures in inventing new dishes1 and who killed himself,,vii-#af because the remainder of his fortune was not sufficient for him 7though to another it would have seemed magnificent7--,apicius shows us what he believed to be the most suitable manner of preserving vegetables4 8,choose them10 he says1 8before they are perfectly ripe1 put them in a vessel coated with pitch1 and cover it hermetically40,,vii-#ag ,the reader will decide for himself between this process and those which science has since discovered4 ,the capitulars 7or statutes7 of ,charlemagne enter1 on the subject of vegetables1 into some instructive details4 ,they inform us that lettuces1 cresses1 endive1 parsley1 chervil1 carrots1 leeks1 turnips1 onions1 garlic1 scallions1 and eschalots1 were nowhere to be found1 except in the emperor's kitchen-gardens4 ,charlemagne had all those vegetables sold1 and derived from them a very considerable revenue4,,vii-#ah ,anderson makes an observation 7under the date #aedh71 which deserves to be noticed here1 were it only on account of its singularity4 8,the ,english10 says he1 8cultivated scarcely any vegetable before the last two centuries4 ,at the commencement of the reign of ,henry ,,viii41 neither salad1 nor carrots1 nor cabbages1 nor radishes1 nor any other comestibles of a like nature1 were grown in any part of the kingdom2 they came from ,holland and ,flanders40 ,according to the author of a project1 printed in ,london in #agbc1 in #hvo41 8for the relief of the poor1 and the payment of old debts1 without the creation of new taxes10 ,queen ,catherine herself could not procure a salad for her dinner4 ,the king was obliged to send over to ,holland for a gardener to cultivate those pot-herbs1 with which ,england is1 perhaps1 better furnished now than any other country in ,europe4 ,anderson asserts 7#affj7 that cauliflowers were not known in ,england until about the time of the ,restoration4 ,and1 lastly1 the author of the 8,state of ,england10 printed in #agfh1 remarks that asparagus and artichokes were only introduced a few years antecedent to that date4 ,,viii4 ,,dried ,,vegetables4 ,,beans4 ,this innocent vegetable1 which with us certainly awakens no lugubrious thoughts1 was formerly consecrated to the dead4 ,it was offered in sacrifices to the infernal gods1 and its mysterious virtues evoked by night1 spirits1 and shadows4,,viii-#a ,the ,flamen of ,jupiter could not eat it1 and he was forbidden to touch a bean1 or even to pronounce its name2,,viii-#b for the fatal plant contains a little black spot1 which is no other than a noxious character--a type of death4,,viii-#c ,pythagoras and his followers carefully avoided this dismal food1 in the fear of submitting a father1 sister1 or beloved wife to the danger of a cruel mastication2,,viii-#d for who knew where wandering souls might rest during the course of their numerous transmigrations4 ,grave writers say the cause of this abstinence is1 that beans are difficult of digestion2 that they stupify those who make use of them as food2 and that hens who eat them cease to lay eggs4,,viii-#e ,what more shall we say8 ,hippocrates1 wise as he certainly was1 had some of these strange fears1 and he trembled for his patients when beans were in blossom4,,viii-#f ,in spite of such ridiculous prejudices1 this plant had numerous and enlightened defenders4 ,when green1 it was served on tables renowned for delicacies2 and1 when fully ripe1 it frequently replaced both wheat and other corn4,,viii-#g ,one of the festivals of ,apollo--the ,pyanepsia--owed its origin and pomp to the bean4 ,this vegetable then obtained preeminence over all that were boiled in the saucepan1 and offered to the ,god of ,day and the ,fine ,arts4,,viii-#h ,is it possible to imagine a more brilliant rehabilitation8 ,if we are to believe ,isidorus1 this plant was the first culinary vegetable of which man made use2,,viii-#i he was1 therefore1 bound to preserve a grateful remembrance of it4 ,king ,david did not deem it unworthy of him1,,viii-#aj and the ,prophet ,ezekiel was commanded to mix it with the different grains of which he made his bread4,,viii-#aa ,we possess few certain indications proving the different culinary combinations to which beans gave rise among the ancients4 ,all we know is1 that they ate them boiled1,,viii-#ab perhaps with bacon2 raw1,,viii-#ac with salt1 we should imagine2 or fried,,viii-#ad with fat1 butter1 or oil4 ,two kinds especially attracted the attention of true connoisseurs of that class of gourmets elect1 whose palate is ever testing1 and whose sure taste detects and appreciates shades1 of almost imperceptible tenuity--first1 the bean of ,egypt1 recommended for its rich1 nutritious1 and wholesome pulp2 this bean was also cultivated in ,syria and ,cilicia3,,viii-#ae and secondly1 the ,greek bean1 which passed at ,rome for a most delicious dish4,,viii-#af ,certain gastronomists1 however1 preferred another vegetable of which we are going to speak4 ,ever since the middle ages the bean has played a very important part in the famous 8,twelfth-night cake10 almost all over ,europe4 ,the ephemeral royalty it bestowed was often sung by the poets1 and consecrated in chronicles4 ,thomas ,randolph informs us that ,lady ,flemyng was queen of the bean in #aefh4,,viii-#ag ,some days after the ,duke of ,guise was assassinated by ,poltrot4 ,history has its puerilities as well as its great tragedies4 ,the ,spaniards had also their ,twelfth-night cake4 ,when ,john1 ,duke of ,braganza1 had obtained the crown of ,portugal 7#afdj71 ,philip ,,iv4 of ,spain informed ,count ,olivares of the event1 and added1 as if it were a consolation for the loss of a kingdom1 that this new sovereign was nothing more than a 8king of the bean40,,viii-#ah ,philip was mistaken4 ,these cakes were made in former days nearly in the same manner that we make them now4 ,sometimes they contained honey1 flour1 ginger1 and pepper4 ,one portion was for ,god1 another for the ,holy ,virgin1 and three others for the ,magi2 that is to say1 they gave all these portions to the poor4,,viii-#ai ,in ,england the cake was often full of raisins1 among which one bean and one pea were introduced4 8,cut the cake10 says ,melibus to ,nisa2 8who hath the beane shal be kinge2 and where the peaze is1 shal be queene40,,viii-#bj 8,at the present day the bean is one of the vegetables most cultivated in ,egypt and ,italy4 ,at ,naples1 as in ,egypt1 they are eaten raw when young1 and the large ones cooked and grilled in the oven4 ,they are publicly sold already cooked40--,,leman4 ,,haricots4 ,it is well known that ,alexander the ,great was fond of travelling1 and that he was generally accompanied in his peregrinations by a certain number of soldiers1 who occasionally took for him1 on his route1 cities1 provinces1 and sometimes kingdoms4 ,it happened1 one day1 that as the ,macedonian prince--worthy pupil of ,aristotle--was herbalizing in ,india1 his eyes fell upon a field of haricots1 which appeared to him very inviting4 ,it was the first time that he had seen this plant1 and he immediately ordered his cook to prepare a dish of them--we do not know with what sauce2 but he thought them good1 and1 thanks to this great conqueror1 ,europe was enriched with a new vegetable4,,viii-#ba ,virgil was doubtless ignorant of this noble origin1 when he decried haricots severely1 by qualifying them so disgracefully4,,viii-#bb ,it is true that the lower classes of people1 who were very fond of them1 did great injury to their reputation2 for things the most exquisite soon lose their value when they fall within the reach of the vulgar4 ,it is thus with a pleasing melody--when given up to the barbarous and melancholy street organs it ceases to charm the ears of drawing-room fashionables4 ,the same again with a plaintive ballad--it loses its attraction the moment a street ,orpheus begins to murder it with his ,stentorian bawl4 ,let it not be thought1 however1 that the plant of which we speak was exclusively reserved for the vulgar appetite4 ,oh1 no6 the ,greeks and ,latins had too much good taste for that4 ,the former allowed it a distinguished place on their tables1 together with figs1 and other side dishes4 ,they only required that haricots should be young1 tender1 and green4,,viii-#bc ,in ,rome they were preserved with vinegar and garum2 and1 prepared in this manner1 they excited the appetites of the guests at the beginning of the repast4,,viii-#bd ,moreover1 it was admitted that this vegetable was much more wholesome than beans1 that the stomach was less fatigued by it1 and that persons of delicate constitutions might partake of it without fear4 ,certain amateurs even pretended that no vegetable was to be compared to haricots2,,viii-#be but others differed from them on this point2 and the latter1 right or wrong1 pronounced in favour of peas4 ,,peas4 ,green peas1 we are sorry to say1 were not appreciated as they deserved to be by the ,romans4,,viii-#bf ,it was reserved principally for our century to discover their value1 to cultivate them with care1 and to force nature to give them to us before the appointed time4 ,this plant was hardly known in #aeej4 ,since that period1 the gardener1 ,michaux1 undertook to bring it into repute4 ,for some time in ,france it was called only by the name of this worthy man4,,viii-#bg ,before that it was an unappreciated vegetable2 it came forth1 blossomed1 and disappeared1 without utility and without renown4 ,it was not thus with grey peas 7pois chiche71 which flourished at a very remote period1 and are mentioned in the sacred writings4,,viii-#bh ,the common people of ,rome and ,greece made them their ordinary food4 ,they ate them boiled or fried2 a rather disagreeable dish1 according to the caustic ,martial1,,viii-#bi who1 however1 speaks with disdain of every kind of peas1 in whatsoever manner they may be prepared4 ,nevertheless1 the satirical humour of this celebrated poet did not prevent this vegetable from being universally sold2 and men1 women1 and children regaled1 and even gorged1 themselves1 with fried grey peas1,,viii-#cj or ram peas 7cicer arietinum71 a singular name1 for which they were indebted to the slight asperity remarkable in each of the grains4,,viii-#ca ,at the ,circus1 and in the theatres1 they were sold at a low price to the spectators1 whom it seemed impossible to satiate with this delicacy1 although it has so little attraction for us4,,viii-#cb ,in short1 the nation of kings had so decided a taste for grey peas1 that those who coveted public employment did not fail to distribute them gratuitously to the people1 in order to obtain their suffrages4,,viii-#cc ,we must acknowledge that in those days votes were obtained at a very cheap rate4 ,,lentils4 ,the ,egyptians1 whose ideas were sometimes most eccentric1 imagined it was sufficient to feed children with lentils to enlighten their minds1 open their hearts1 and render them cheerful4 ,that people1 therefore1 consumed an immense quantity of this vegetable1 which from infancy had been their principal food4,,viii-#cd ,the ,greeks also highly esteemed this aliment1 and their ancient philosophers regaled themselves with lentils4 ,zeno would not trust to any one the cooking of them2 it is true that the stoics had for their maxim3 8,a wise man acts always with reason1 and prepares his lentils himself40,,viii-#ce ,we must confess that the great wit of these words escapes us1 although we are willing to believe there is some in them4 ,however it may be1 lentils were abundant in ,greece and in the ,east2 and many persons1 otherwise very sensible1 maintained1 with the most serious countenance in the world1 that they softened the temper and disposed the mind to study4,,viii-#cf ,it is hardly necessary to observe that this plant was well known to the ,hebrews4 ,the red pottage of lentils for which ,esau sold his birthright1,,viii-#cg the present of ,shobi to ,david1,,viii-#ch the victory of ,shammah in the field of lentils1,,viii-#ci and1 lastly1 the bread of ,ezekiel1,,viii-#dj sufficiently prove that the ,jews numbered this vegetable as one of those in ordinary use among them4 ,the ,romans had not the same esteem for it as the nations we have mentioned4 ,according to them1 the moisture in lentils could only cause heaviness to the mind1 and render men reserved1 indolent1 and lazy4 ,the name of this vegetable pretty well shows1 they said1 the bad effect it produces4 ,lentil derives its origin from the word lentus 7slow71,,viii-#da 8,lens a lente40 ,and1 as if enough had not been alleged to disgrace this unfortunate plant1 and to give the finish to the ill-fame it had acquired1 it was placed amongst funereal and ill-omened foods4 ,thus ,marcus ,crassus1 waging war against the ,parthians1 was convinced that his army would be defeated1 because his corn was exhausted1 and his men were obliged to have recourse to lentils4,,viii-#db ,how was it possible to resist such attacks6 ,the humble plant gave way in spite of the few flattering words of the poetic ,virgil1,,viii-#dc and the assurance of ,pliny that this food produced two uncommon virtues--mildness and moderation4,,viii-#dd ,,ix4 ,,kitchen ,,garden4 ,the art of gardening1 which may be called the luxury of agriculture1,,ix-#a was known at the most remote periods4,,ix-#b ,in the same inclosure was to be found the kitchen garden1 orchard1 and flower garden1,,ix-#c at a short distance from the habitation of the rich4,,ix-#d ,royal hands did not disdain to embellish those spots which afforded a pleasing retreat1 solitude1 and repose4 ,thus ,attalus resigned the cares of his crown to cultivate his little garden1 and sow in it the seeds of his favourite plant4,,ix-#e ,babylon1 the renowned city of antiquity1 was celebrated amongst other wonders for her gardens suspended in the air2 they were partly in existence sixteen centuries after their erection1 and astonished ,alexander the ,great,,ix-#f by the sublime grandeur of their prodigious boldness and the rare beauty of their workmanship4 ,homer has left us the description of ,alcinous's garden1,,ix-#g from which can be traced the birth of the art of gardening2 its luxury consisted in the order and symmetry of its form1 in the richness of its soil1 the fertility of the trees1 and in the two fountains which ornamented it4 ,it was not so with the ,romans4 ,those conquerors of the world displayed every where pomp and ostentation3 ,lucullus1 ,crassus1 ,pompey1 and ,csar1 filled their gardens with the riches of ,asia and the spoils of the universe4,,ix-#h ,the serious horticulturist1 who wanted a garden for enjoyment1 and not for show1 carefully laboured1 to see it bring forth fine fruits and excellent vegetables4,,ix-#i ,water was properly distributed for irrigation by means of aqueducts,,ix-#aj of tiles1 wood1 or lead pipes1,,ix-#aa and everywhere the plants received the necessary moisture2 and clever experienced gardeners were constantly occupied in improvements suggested by an attentive and skilful master4,,ix-#ab ,the kitchen garden of the ancients contained mostly the vegetables1 herbs1 and roots1 of which we still make use2 but they also cultivated certain other kinds1 which modern cookery has either put aside or rarely employs4 ,we shall describe all those which appear most worthy of notice4 ,,cabbage4 ,this plant has experienced the fate of a host of human things that have not been able to bear the weight of a too brilliant reputation4 ,time has done justice to the extraordinary qualities attributed to it1 and the cabbage now remains1 what it ought always to have been1 an estimable vegetable and nothing more4 ,the ,egyptians adored it1 and raised altars to it4 ,they afterwards made of this strange god the first dish of their repasts1 and were imitated in this particular by the ,greeks and ,romans1 who ascribed to it the happy quality of preserving from drunkenness4,,ix-#ac ,it was more particularly the red cabbage that obtained these honours and prerogatives4 ,from ,italy the victorious legions introduced it among the ,gauls1 as well as the green cabbage2 the white species appears to belong originally to southern countries4 ,hippocrates had a peculiar affection for this vegetable4 ,should one of his patients be seized with a violent cholic1 he at once prescribed a dish of boiled cabbage with salt4,,ix-#ad ,erasistratus looked upon it as a sovereign remedy against paralysis4 ,pythagoras1 and several other learned philosophers1 composed books in which they celebrated the marvellous virtues of the cabbage4,,ix-#ae ,a writer1 not less serious than those we have just quoted1 the wise ,cato1 affirms that this plant infallibly cures all diseases2 and pretends to have used this panacea to preserve his family from the plague1 which1 otherwise1 would not have failed to reach them4 ,it is to the use the ,romans made of it1 he adds1 that they were able during six hundred years to do without the assistance of physicians1 whom they had expelled from their territories4,,ix-#af ,this bold assertion deserved a little retaliation on the part of the faculty2 so they deposed the cabbage from the rank occupied by it in medicine1 and banished it to the kitchen4 ,the ,athenian ladies formerly partook of the general enthusiasm in favour of this wholesome vegetable1 which was always served to them when a new-born infant required their maternal love and care4,,ix-#ag ,the ancients were acquainted with three principal kinds of cabbage3 the silken-leaved1 the curled1 and the hard1 round1 white cabbage4,,ix-#ah ,apicius does not busy himself with any one of these varieties in particular in the various preparations he points out1 and which we submit to the appreciation of connoisseurs3 #ast4 ,take only the most delicate and tender part of the cabbage1 which boil1 and then pour off the water2 season it with cummin seed1,,ix-#ai salt1 old wine1 oil1 pepper1 alisander1 mint1 rue1 coriander seed1 gravy1 and oil4 #bnd4 ,prepare the cabbage in the manner just mentioned1 and make a seasoning of coriander seed1 onion1 cummin seed1 pepper1 a small quantity of oil1 and wine made of sun raisins4,,ix-#bj #crd4 ,when you have boiled the cabbages in water1 put them into a saucepan and stew them with gravy1 oil1 wine1 cummin seed1 pepper1 leeks1 and green coriander4,,ix-#ba #dth4 ,add to the preceding ingredients flour of almonds1 and raisins dried in the sun4,,ix-#bb #eth4 ,prepare them again in the above manner1 and cook them with green olives4,,ix-#bc ,who will question the service rendered to the culinary art by resuscitating these antique dishes1 in which the cabbage admits of such a variety of combinations1 and which we owe to the learning and experience of a man of taste8 ,whatever may be the opinion of our modern ,trimalcions1 we must not forget that this vegetable1 prepared according to the recipe of ,apicius1 was the delight of the gourmets of ,rome more than eighteen centuries ago4 ,the ,romans brought the red cabbage into ,gaul1 and the green cabbage also4 ,white cabbages came from the north1 and the art of making them headed was unknown in the time of ,charlemagne4,,ix-#bd 8,in some countries cauliflowers are dried1 and the white headed cabbages are preserved4 ,the first1 stripped of their leaves1 are cut in slices1 and boiled two minutes in water slightly salted4 ,they are shortly after withdrawn1 and put to drain on hurdles1 which are afterwards exposed to the sun during two or three days4 ,at the expiration of that time the cauliflowers are placed in an oven half-warm1 and are kept there till the stalks are dry2 they are then wrapped in paper to preserve them from damp4 ,to keep the headed cabbages1 divide them in six or eight pieces1 according to size1 throw them for an instant in boiling water1 then withdraw and plunge them in vinegar1 which from time to time must be changed1 especially at the beginning1 taking care to add always a little salt40--,,dutour4 ,,beet4 ,columella pretends that this plant owes its name 7beta7 to its resemblance to the letter ,b4,,ix-#be ,we shall leave to the professional etymologist the trouble of examining whether ,columella made a mistake or not4 ,the ,greeks had two distinct sorts of beet--the black and the pale2 they preferred the latter1,,ix-#bf especially when it came from ,ascrea in ,botia4,,ix-#bg ,they called this species ,sicilian beet2 and the physician ,diphilus--who joined to his knowledge of botany that sort of gastrophagic intuition1 that culinary mens divinior1 whose inspiration never leads astray--placed it far above the cabbage1 notwithstanding the estimable qualities of this latter vegetable4,,ix-#bh ,he recommended it to be eaten boiled1 with mustard1 and considers this food as a very excellent vermifuge4,,ix-#bi ,the beet has not found favour with ,martial1 who1 always caustic and severe1 calls it an insipid dish4,,ix-#cj ,this injurious1 and perhaps unjust1 epithet would doubtless have exercised a fatal influence upon the destiny of this most inoffensive of vegetables1 if an opponent of greater weight had not entered the lists against the atrabilarious poet4 ,we read in ,apicius3 8,boil1 over a slow fire1 some very tender white beet2 add leeks1 which have been taken from their native soil some days previous2 when all this is cooked put it into a saucepan with pepper1 gravy1 and raisin wine2 take care that the ebullition be regular1 and serve4,,ix-#ca 8,or1 if you prefer3 tie in bundles the beet you have carefully chosen1 wash it1 throw in some nitre1 and boil it with water2 then put it into a saucepan with sun-raisin wine1 pepper1 cummin1 and a little oil2 at the moment of ebullition add a mixture of gravy and coarsely chopped walnuts2 cover the saucepan for an instant1 uncover1 and serve40,,ix-#cb ,the skilful artist is pleased for the third time to mention this culinary herb2 and this is the new preparation which he gives3-- 8,when you have boiled beet in water until it is tender1 add a pulp of leeks1 some coriander1 and cummin seed1 carefully combined with flour and sun-made wine2 place these different ingredients in a saucepan1 and add gravy1 oil1 and vinegar40,,ix-#cc ,by tasting one of these dishes you will be convinced that ,martial did not understand them2 or1 perhaps1 he composed his epigram after dinner4 ,one species of beet is well known in its two principal varieties1 under the name of beet-root and white-beet4 ,the southern parts of ,europe appear to be the native countries of the beet4 ,it serves as food for both man and cattle4 ,sugar is extracted from the root1 and potash from the stalks and leaves4 ,beet-root is preserved1 after stripping it completely of its leaves1 and the earth which remains on them1 in greenhouses1 in dry cellars1 and even in trenches covered with earth1 in layers1 lengthwise1 with sand4 ,they are thus preserved until the following ,may4 8,beet-root is eaten cooked in ashes or in water1 and seasoned in various ways2 they are excellent in salad1 either by themselves1 or mixed with endives or dandelion1 c40--,,bosc4 ,,spinach4 ,it does not appear that spinach was known to the ,greeks and ,romans4 ,some authors think that it might be the chrysolacanon of the ,greeks1,,ix-#cd but it is probable that this was no other than the orach2,,ix-#ce ,beckmann,,ix-#cf thinks1 with several botanists1 that this plant came from ,spain2 and1 indeed1 it has been often called the ,spanish vegetable4,,ix-#cg ,we only speak of this plant by way of memento1 and regret that our first masters in cookery have not been able to transmit to us the results of their studies and experience in the preparation of spinach1 whose precocity must always render it valuable to amateurs of vegetable food4 ,,mallows4 ,the ancients ate mallows1 and recognised in them soothing and softening qualities4,,ix-#ch ,diphilus of ,siphne says that their juice lubricates the windpipe1 nourishes1 and is easily digested4,,ix-#ci ,horace praises this aliment2,,ix-#dj and ,martial1 for once just1 recommends its use4,,ix-#da ,it is true that a passage of ,cicero would seem to indicate we know not what deception1 which appeared all at once when eating or after partaking of mallows2,,ix-#db but the ,roman orator1 perhaps1 knew little of the properties of the plant1 which were only described much later by ,pliny the naturalist4 ,the curious may consult on this subject the twenty-first chapter of the twentieth book of his great work4 ,at all events mallows were in high renown2 they occupied one of the first ranks among pickles1 those famous acetaria which had so powerful an effect in quickening the appetites of the ,greeks1 and preparing their stomachs for great gastronomic struggles4,,ix-#dc ,they were served as a salad4 ,the large-leaved mallow was mixed with nogarum1 pepper1 gravy1 and sun-made wine4,,ix-#dd ,the small-leaved mallows were also prepared with nogarum and gravy2 but instead of pepper and wine1 oil and vinegar were added4,,ix-#de ,,asparagus4 8,quiconque ne voit gure n'a gure dire aussi40,,ix-#df ,but travellers1 those daring pioneers of science1 have sometimes1 in their travels1 the strange good fortune to behold wonders invisible to other eyes4 ,thus some skilful explorators of ,africa saw1 about the middle of the second century of the ,christian era1 in ,getulia1 asparagus of excellent quality and of very beautiful growth1 being no less than twelve feet high6 ,it is needless to add that the ,libyan vendors rarely sold them in bundles4 ,but these veridical travellers1 on quitting the plain to ascend the mountains1 found something still more wonderful2 the land there seemed to suit these plants still better1 for they acquired the height of twenty cubits4,,ix-#dg ,after this1 what shall we say of our ,european asparagus1 so shrivelled and diminutive in comparison with that of ,getulia8 ,the ,greeks1 not having any better1 contented themselves with the ordinary sort1 such as we have at the present day4 ,they considered it very useful in the treatment of internal diseases4,,ix-#dh ,diphilus1 who was very fond of it1 regrets that this vegetable should be so hurtful to the sight3,,ix-#di is it because we eat asparagus that spectacles have become necessary at nearly all periods of life8 ,the ,romans cultivated this plant with extreme care1,,ix-#ej and obtained the most extraordinary results4 ,at ,ravenna1 they raised asparagus each stem of which weighed three pounds4,,ix-#ea ,then1 as in our days1 they were allowed but a short time to boil2 hence the favourite expression of ,augustus1 who1 to intimate his wish that any affair might be concluded without delay1 was accustomed to say3 8,let that be done quicker than you would cook asparagus40,,ix-#eb ,the cooks of ,rome had a method which appears to have been subsequently too much neglected2 they chose the finest heads of asparagus1 and dried them4 ,when wanted for the table1 they put them into hot water1 and then boiled them a few minutes4,,ix-#ec ,thanks to this simple process the plant swelled considerably1 and passed as being very tender and fine flavoured4 ,the ,apicii1 ,luculli1 and other connoisseurs of renown1 had this vegetable brought from the environs of ,nesis1 a city of ,campania4,,ix-#ed ,it is asserted that ,asia is its native soil1 and that it was originally brought to us from that part of the world4 ,nevertheless1 wild asparagus grows naturally in certain sandy soils1 as1 for instance1 in the islands of the ,rhne and the ,loire4,,ix-#ee 8,when it is found impossible to eat all the asparagus you have cut1 and which has arrived at a convenient maturity1 place them by the thick ends in a vessel containing about two inches of water2 or else1 bury them half-way up in fresh sand4 ,by means of these precautions asparagus may be preserved several days40--,,parmentier4 ,,gourd4 ,this vegetable1 which the wise gourmet is too discreet to despise1 and to which the whimsical fancy of ,roman gardeners gave the most grotesque forms1,,ix-#ef appears to be the very image of those soft and easy dispositions who yield to and obey every one1 and whose unintelligent mildness is only repaid with sarcasm or disdain4 ,observe this creeping vegetable1 left free to grow to its full size1 which would sometimes attain the length of nine feet1,,ix-#eg and which the will of man was able to reduce to the slender and tortuous shape of a hideous dragon4,,ix-#eh ,when hardly ripe1 it was cut and served on the tables of the most dainty1 where it was eaten with vinegar and mustard1 or seasoned with fine herbs3,,ix-#ei and whilst the ungrateful guests savoured the stomachic and nourishing flesh of the gourd1,,ix-#fj they did not cease to amuse themselves at the expense of its round and almost empty body,,ix-#fa--the proverbial image of a head not over well-provided with brains4,,ix-#fb ,to the present day even1 more than one popular joke continues to pursue this plant1 although its culinary qualities are appreciated as formerly4 ,we are indebted to ,india for the seed of the gourd1,,ix-#fc which the ,greeks designated1 according to the species1 by the names of ,indian and common gourd4 ,the latter kind was either boiled or roasted2 the former was generally boiled in water4,,ix-#fd ,antioch furnished the finest specimens to the markets of ,athens4,,ix-#fe ,the ancients were acquainted with the manner of preserving this vegetable in such a state of freshness as to enable them to eat it with pleasure in the month of ,january3,,ix-#ff the method is as follows1--the gourds were cut in pieces of a moderate size2 these pieces1 strung like beads1 where first dried in the open air1 and then smoked2 when winter arrived1 each piece was well washed before putting it into the stewpan1 with the various culinary herbs which the season produced2 to this was added endive1 curled cabbage1 and dried mushrooms4,,ix-#fg ,the rest of the operation is easily understood4 ,the ,romans prepared this vegetable in different ways3 a few of the principal ones will suffice4 #ast4 ,boil the gourd in water1 squeeze it out carefully1 place it in a saucepan1 and mix some pepper1 a little cummin seed1 rue1 gravy1 vinegar1 and a small quantity of wine1 reduced to one-half by boiling4 ,let the whole stew1 and then sprinkle it lightly with pepper1 and serve4,,ix-#fh #bnd4 ,boil and carefully squeeze them to extract the water1 then put the gourds into a saucepan with vinegar and gravy2 when it begins to simmer1 thicken with fine flour1 sprinkle lightly with pepper1 and serve4,,ix-#fi #crd4 ,throw some salt on the gourd after it has been boiled1 and the water pressed out of it2 put it into a saucepan1 with a mixture of pepper1 cummin seed1 coriander1 green mint1 and the root of benzoin2 add some vinegar2 then chop some dates and almonds2 a little later1 more vinegar1 honey1 gravy1 sun-made wine1 and oil2 sprinkle lightly with pepper1 and serve4,,ix-#gj #dth4 ,put into a stewpan a fowl1 with a gourd2 add some apricots1 truffles1 pepper1 cummin1 sylphium1 mint1 parsley1 coriander1 pennyroyal1 and calamint2 moisten with wine1 gravy1 oil1 vinegar1 and honey4,,ix-#ga ,these four recipes are sufficient to prove that this vegetable stood very high in the estimation of the ,romans4 ,,turnips4 ,the epicureans of ,athens preferred turnips brought from ,thebes2,,ix-#gb ,roman gastronomists placed those of ,amitermes in the first rank1 and those of ,nursia in the second4 ,the kitchen-gardeners of ,rome furnished them with a third variety1 to which they had recourse when they could not procure any other4,,ix-#gc ,they were eaten boiled1 thus3--after the water had been extracted from them1 they were seasoned with cummin1 rue1 and benzoin1 pounded in a mortar1 adding to it afterwards honey1 vinegar1 gravy1 boiled grapes1 and a little oil4 ,the whole was left to simmer1 and then served4,,ix-#gd ,,carrots4 ,the ,greeks and ,romans planted or sowed them in the beginning of the spring1 or autumn4,,ix-#ge ,they distinguished two kinds1 the wild and the cultivated4,,ix-#gf ,this much esteemed root received the honour of being prepared in many ways4 ,sometimes it was eaten as a salad1 with salt1 oil1 and vinegar4,,ix-#gg ,it was also stewed1 and mixed afterwards with nogarum4,,ix-#gh ,again1 they boiled it in a stewpan1 over a slow fire1 with some cummin and a little oil1 and just before serving it was sprinkled with ground cummin seeds4,,ix-#gi ,,blit 7,a ,,sort ,,of ,,beet74 ,blit is one of the family of atriplices1 which grows in ,europe1 and in the temperate regions of ,asia2 it owes its ancient reputation entirely to the insipidity of its flavour1 from which it derives its ,greek name1 synonymous with stupidity and insignificance4,,ix-#hj ,blit was eaten boiled1 when nothing better was to be had4 ,in fact1 it was a last resource--and nothing more4 ,,purslaine4 ,this vegetable1 the aspect of which would lead us to suppose it possessed savoury qualities 7though experience proves the contrary71 was formerly mixed in different salads1 and still enjoys some esteem when associated with a leg of mutton4,,ix-#ha ,in default of esculent qualities 7which it certainly does not possess71 the ancients recognised in purslaine many admirable virtues1,,ix-#hb which are not acknowledged in the present day4 ,the internal use of this plant1 also its external application1 cured the bite of serpents1 wounds inflicted by poisoned arrows1 and infallibly neutralized the effects of poisonous drinks4,,ix-#hc ,but1 alas6 purslaine is not now what it was formerly2 for it is hardly permitted to appear by the side of one of our fresh white lettuces4 ,,sorrel4 ,sorrel is a polygenous plant1 and grows throughout ,europe amidst the grass fields4 ,the ,romans cultivated it in order to give it more vigour1,,ix-#hd and ate it sometimes stewed with mustard1 and seasoned with a little oil and vinegar4,,ix-#he ,,brocoli4 ,drusus1 son of ,tiberius1 was so passionately fond of the brocoli1 which ,apicius induced him to eat1 that he was more than once severely reprimanded by his father on the subject4,,ix-#hf ,it is true that the celebrated ,roman epicurean displayed so much art1 and gave such delicious flavour to it1 that this dish alone would have been enough to establish his reputation4 ,in fact1 brocoli has always been appreciated by connoisseurs2 and ,glaucias1 who passed his life in meditating seriously on the perfectibility of culinary ingredients1 said3 8,that nothing could be better than this vegetable1 boiled and suitably seasoned40,,ix-#hg ,this was the method of preparing it at ,rome3 they used only the most tender and delicate parts of the brocoli1 which were boiled with that extreme care the artist always devotes to this first operation2 and1 afterwards1 when the water had been well drained off1 they added some cummin seed1 pepper1 chopped onions1 and coriander seed--all braised together1 not forgetting1 before serving up1 to add a little oil and sun-made wine4,,ix-#hh ,,artichoke4 ,a young and unfortunate beauty had the ill-luck to displease a vindictive and irascible god1 who instantly metamorphosed her into an artichoke4,,ix-#hi ,this poor girl's name was ,cinara4 ,although she had become a bitter plant she preserved this sweet name1 which the moderns have strangely modified4 ,our readers1 who eat artichokes with so much indifference1 will1 perhaps1 sometimes lament this poor victim of a blind resentment4 ,this plant was well known to the ancients2 the hilly regions of ,greece1 ,asia1 and ,egypt were covered with it2,,ix-#ij but the inhabitants made no use of it as an aliment1 and it remained uncultivated4,,ix-#ia ,it would be rather difficult to trace the precise period when it was first introduced into ,italy4 ,all we know is1 that it grew there more than half a century before the ,christian era1 in the time of ,dioscorides1 who mentioned it4,,ix-#ib ,it appears1 nevertheless1 that hardly any one troubled himself about artichokes1 or their esculent qualities1 up to that time2 but the wealthy1 about a century after1 began to appreciate them1 and ,pliny1 in one of his jesting whims1 reproaches the rich with having deprived the lower classes and asses of a food which nature seemed to have destined for them4,,ix-#ic ,this vegetable was then very dear1,,ix-#id for it did not succeed1 and was subsequently given up4 ,it was so far forgotten that in the year #adgc it appeared as a novelty at ,venice2,,ix-#ie and towards the year #adfe it was brought from ,naples to ,florence1 whence it passed into ,france in the sixteenth century4,,ix-#if ,galen,,ix-#ig looked upon the artichoke as a bad food4,,ix-#ih ,columella sung its praise in his verses2 he recommended it to the disciples of ,bacchus1 and forbid the use of it to those who were anxious to preserve a sweet and pure voice4,,ix-#ii ,this plant1 whatever may be in other respects its estimable qualities1 does not please every one equally well2 its bitterness and unpleasant odour keep it at a distance from numerous palates--perhaps because too many allow themselves to be prejudiced by deceitful appearances4 ,here are two very ingenious methods by means of which a trial might be made to overcome1 or lessen1 the defects it undoubtedly has1 and which we can but deplore3-- ,artichokes will become mild by taking care to steep the seed in a mixture of honey and milk4,,ix-#ajj ,they will then exhale the most agreeable perfume1 particularly when this seed has passed three days in the juice of bay leaves1 lilies1 or roses4,,ix-#aja ,having quoted the authority1 we give the recipe for what it is worth4 ,until the result of this experiment is known1 artichokes may be eaten raw1 with a seasoning of hard eggs chopped in very small pieces1 garum1 and oil4,,ix-#ajb ,if you prefer a sharper sauce1 mix well some green mint with rue1 ,greek fennel1,,ix-#ajc and coriander2 add1 afterwards1 some pepper1 alisander1 honey1 garum1 and oil4,,ix-#ajd ,they are also eaten boiled1 with cummin1 pepper1 gravy1 and oil4,,ix-#aje 8,it is well known under what form artichokes1 either raw or cooked1 appear on our tables4 ,the best way to preserve them is to half cook them1 separate the leaves from the fur1 and preserve the fleshy part1 called the bottom1 and throw them1 still warm1 in cold water1 to make them firm4 ,that operation is called blanchir4 ,they are laid afterwards on hurdles1 and put four different times in the oven1 as soon as the bread is taken out4 ,they become then very thin1 hard1 and transparent1 like horn1 and return to their original form in hot water4 ,they must be kept free from damp40--,,parmentier4 ,,pompion4 ,like the gourd1 the good and creeping pompion has served more than once as a term of comparison1 and that in a style most humiliating4 ,should any one happen to be thick-headed1 or not very intelligent1,,ix-#ajf he was immediately compared to a pompion 7popularly1 pumpkin--whence bumpkin74 ,the insult went still further3 it was said of a pusillanimous man1 8,that he had a pompion where his heart ought to have been40,,ix-#ajg ,the obesity of this vegetable1 and its inelegant shape1 have doubtless given rise to these injurious remarks4 ,it was1 however1 acknowledged that it possessed many estimable qualities1 which ought to have compensated for its outward defects4 ,it was thought to be very refreshing1 and was employed with success in the treatment of diseases of the eyes4,,ix-#ajh ,we might undertake 7if permitted7 a long dissertation1 in order to prove that the ,hebrews1 weary of being in the ,desert1 murmured because they were deprived of the pompion of ,egypt1,,ix-#aji and not the melon1 as translators have rendered it2 but we should be accused of egregious presumption2 the learned would frown1 critics would not spare us1 and our pompions would1 nevertheless1 pass as melons4 ,this plant occupies a prominent place in the precious catalogue of ,roman dainties which we offer for the meditation of judges4 ,here are some of the ancient modes of preparing this vegetable3 #ast4 ,boil some pompions1 put them in a stewpan with cummin and a little oil2 place them for a short time over a slow fire1 and serve4,,ix-#aaj #bnd4 ,when you have well boiled1 reduce them to a pulp1 then put them on a dish with pepper1 alisander1 cummin1 wild marjoram1 onion1 wine1 garum1 and oil2 thicken with flour1 and serve4,,ix-#aaa #crd4 ,when the pompion has boiled in water1 it is then seasoned with wild fennel1 sylphium1,,ix-#aab dried mint1 vinegar1 and garum4,,ix-#aac ,,cucumber4 ,when the ,israelites were in the ,desert they regretted much the cucumbers of ,egypt1 which were sold to them at a very trifling price when under the yoke of ,pharaoh4,,ix-#aad ,we may thence infer that this vegetable was very plentiful1 and chiefly in great demand by the lower order of people2 for as the ,jews were in a state of servitude1 they were necessarily assimilated with the most abject of the ,egyptians4 ,we see that this cucurbitacea has been long known1 and that1 after the lapse of many centuries1 it is held in the same degree of estimation it enjoyed among the ,eastern nations4 ,the ,greeks thought much of the cucumber1 particularly of that kind which came from the environs of ,antioch4,,ix-#aae ,they attributed to this plant marvellous properties1 which modern scepticism has completely thrown aside4 ,we think it good in salad1 with vinegar1 oil1 pepper1 and salt1 and that is all4 ,it is1 we imagine1 the only good quality our farmers ascribe to it at the present day4 ,formerly1 in ,greece1 the same class of persons1 being clearer-sighted1 or more credulous1 were convinced that this vegetable protected all kinds of seeds against the voracity of insects4 ,to obtain this result it was only necessary to steep the seed in the juice obtained from the root of the cucumber1 before it was sown4,,ix-#aaf ,we freely offer this preservative to those who may wish to give it a trial1 and sincerely hope they may profit by this revival of the ,greek process4 ,the ,romans conceived that this cold and somewhat insipid vegetable 7we beg pardon of its admirers7 required a seasoning to heighten its flavour4 ,no sooner had they transplanted it from ,asia into ,rome1,,ix-#aag than they busied themselves in rendering it worthy of their tables by various preparations1 which may1 perhaps1 interest the curious4 #ast4 ,scrape the cucumbers1 and eat them with nogarum4,,ix-#aah,w ,or1 prepare the condiment with thyme1 wild mint1 pepper1 and alisander2 to which add1 as before1 garum1 oil1 and honey4,,ix-#abj #bnd4 ,scrape the cucumbers1 and boil them with parsley1 seed1 gravy1 and oil2 thicken1 and sprinkle pepper over the dish before serving4,,ix-#aba #crd4 ,again1 they may be seasoned with pepper1 pennyroyal1 honey1 or sun-made wine1 gravy1 vinegar1 and a little sylphium4,,ix-#abb #dth4 ,you will obtain a most delicate dish by boiling the cucumbers with brains1 already cooked2 adding afterwards some cummin1 and a little honey4,,ix-#abc ,the cucumber1 although but little nutritious1 does not agree with cold stomachs4 ,in the north an astonishing quantity are consumed4 ,the ,poles ate them at every repast with boiled meat4 8,cucumbers are preserved in a very simple manner4 ,the essential point is to obtain good wine-vinegar4 ,after having well washed and wiped them1 put them into either white or red vinegar 7the colour is better preserved by using the white72 add salt2 cover simply the vessel containing them with a board4 ,the vinegar must always be an inch higher than the cucumbers1 and must be entirely renewed at the end of a month40--,,parmentier4 ,,lettuce4 ,from time immemorial the lettuce has occupied a most distinguished place in the kitchen garden4 ,the ,hebrews ate it1 without preparation1 with the ,paschal lamb4,,ix-#abd ,the opulent ,greeks were very fond of the lettuces of ,smyrna1,,ix-#abe which appeared on their tables at the end of a repast2,,ix-#abf the ,romans1 who at first imitated them1 decided1 under ,domitian1 that this favourite dish should be served in the first course with eggs1,,ix-#abg purposely to excite their indomitable appetites1 which three courses 7and such courses1 ye gods6 when compared with ours of the present day7 would hardly satisfy4 ,the bitter lettuce was sufficient for the frugal ,hebrews1,,ix-#abh but the delicate epicureans of ,athens and ,rome were much more particular2 they valued them only when a mild and sweet savour invited the most rebellious palate1 and awakened the slumbering desires of a fatigued stomach4 ,and what care1 what attention1 did they not bestow on the growth and maturity of this cherished plant6 ,aristoxenus1 a philosopher by profession1 an epicurean by taste1 had in his garden a species of lettuce which was the envy of his surrounding neighbours4 ,the worthy man1 rendered happy by their jealous admiration1 went every evening1 without fail1 to contemplate the small square of ground which contained his treasure1 and sprinkled it carefully with water1 doubtless from a limpid stream4 ,tush6 ,water1 to moisten the lettuces of ,aristoxenus6 ,no3 the philosopher kept in reserve a sweet and excellent wine to quench the thirst of his plants1 and to communicate to them that delicate perfume and exquisite taste1 the mysterious cause of which baffled the neighbouring gastronomists4 ,the day after1 the arch old man would say1 with a roguish smile1 that he was going to gather some relishing green cakes1 which the earth prepared expressly for him1,,ix-#abi and the simple countrymen were wonder-struck without understanding the cause4 ,the lettuce--favourite plant of the beautiful ,adonis,,ix-#acj--possesses a narcotic virtue1 of which ancient physicians have taken notice4 ,galen mentions that1 in his old age1 he had not found a better remedy against the wakefulness he was troubled with4,,ix-#aca ,the biographer of ,augustus informs us that this ,emperor1 being attacked with hypochondria1 recovered only by the use of lettuces1 recommended by ,musa1 his first physician2,,ix-#acb nothing1 therefore1 is wanting in praise of this useful plant--literally nothing1 since the king of cooks1 ,clius ,apicius1 judged it worthy of an honourable place in the immortal book he has bequeathed to the amateurs of the ,archeologico-culinary science of all ages and all countries4 8,take10 says he1 8the leaves of lettuces1 let them be boiled with onions1 in water wherein you have put some nitre2 take them out1 squeeze out the water1 and cut them in small pieces2 mix well some pepper1 alisander1,,ix-#acc parsley seed1 dried mint1 and onions2 put this mixture to the lettuce1 and add to the whole some gravy1 oil1 and wine40,,ix-#acd ,lettuces may also be eaten with a dressing of gravy and pickles4,,ix-#ace ,our ancestors served salads with roasted meat1 roasted poultry1 c4 ,they had a great many which are now no longer in vogue4 ,they ate leeks1 cooked in the wood-ashes1 and seasoned with salt and honey2 borage1 mint1 and parsley1 with salt and oil2 lettuce1 fennel1 mint1 chervil1 parsley1 and elder-flowers mixed together4 ,they also classed among their salads an agglomeration of feet1 heads1 cocks' combs1 and fowls' livers1 cooked1 and seasoned with parsley1 mint1 vinegar1 pepper1 and cinnamon4 ,nettles1 and the twigs of rosemary1 formed delicious salads for our forefathers2 and to these they sometimes added pickled gherkins4,,ix-#acf ,,endive4 ,pliny assures us that the juice of this plant1 mixed with vinegar and oil of roses1 is an excellent remedy for the head-ache2,,ix-#acg we leave to the proper judges a pharmaceutical mixture which does not belong to our province1 and which we only quote en passant4 ,virgil thought endive bitter1,,ix-#ach but he did not speak ill of it4 ,columella recommended this salad to fastidious and satiated palates2,,ix-#aci this is praising it4 ,the ,egyptians appreciated its merits1,,ix-#adj which the ,greeks had too much sense and good taste to disdain2 and the ,romans ate it prepared in the following manner3-- ,choose some fine endive2 wash it well2 drain off all the water2 add a little gravy and oil2 then chop some onions very small2 strew them over the endive1 and add honey and vinegar4,,ix-#ada ,it is understood that the sweet savour of the honey corrects the bitterness of the plant2 but a judicious attention must preside over the quantity of that substance1 for too much or too little might easily spoil this salad of ,apicius4 ,,onions4 ,whoever wishes to preserve his health must eat every morning1 before breakfast1 young onions1 with honey4,,ix-#adb ,such a treat is assuredly not very tempting3 besides1 this rather strong vegetable leaves after it a most unpleasant perfume1 which long reminds us of its presence2 wherefore this recipe has not met with favour1 and1 indeed1 it is much to be doubted whether it will ever become fashionable4 ,alexander the ,great found the onion in ,egypt1 where the ,hebrews had learned to like it4,,ix-#adc ,he brought it into ,greece1 where it was given as food to the troops1 whose martial ardour,,ix-#add it was thought to excite4 ,pliny assures us that ,gaul produced a small kind1 which the ,romans called ,gallic onions1 and which they thought more delicate than those of ,italy4,,ix-#ade ,at any rate1 it was a dish given up to plebeians and the poor4 ,horace opposed to it fish--the luxurious nourishment of rich and dainty ,romans4,,ix-#adf ,in spite of this reprobation on the part of the elegant poet1 ,apicius does not fear to introduce the plant in his ,olus ,molle1 a kind of ,julienne1 not devoid of merit4 ,take onions1 rather dry1 and mix pepper1 alisander1 and winter-savory1 to season a variety of vegetables previously boiled in water and nitre1 the which1 when very fine1 thicken with cullis1 oil1 and wine4,,ix-#adg ,,leeks4 ,this vegetable--a powerful divinity1 dreaded among the ,egyptians1,,ix-#adh and a food bewailed by the ,israelites in their journey through the ,desert,,ix-#adi--;cured the ,greeks of numerous diseases1 which in our days it is to be feared would resist its medicinal properties4,,ix-#aej ,everything changes in this sublunary world1 and the leek no doubt follows the common law4 ,the authors of a compilation rather indigestible at times1 but often very curious1 assert that this vegetable attains an extraordinary size1 by putting as many of the seeds as one can take up with three fingers into a piece of linen1 which is then to be tied-up1 covered with manure1 and watered with care4 ,all these seeds--so they say--will at last form themselves into one single seed1 which will produce a monstrous leek4,,ix-#aea ,this process1 which is revealed to us by the geoponics1 would have had an enthusiastic reception from those fervent pagans who vied in zeal with each other1 to see who could offer ,latona1 on the day of the ,theoxenias1 the most magnificent leek4,,ix-#aeb ,the mother of ,apollo received this plant with pleasure1 although presented to her quite raw2 but she would probably have preferred it dressed in the following manner3-- ,take leeks1 the mildest it is possible to procure2 boil them in water and oil1 with a handful of salt1 and put them into a dish1 with gravy1 oil1 and wine4,,ix-#aec ,or1 cover the leeks with young cabbage leaves2 cook them under the hot embers1 and season afterwards as above4,,ix-#aed ,,melon4 ,this cucurbitacea1 the most delicate vegetable belonging to this numerous family1 has always been the delight of the inhabitants of the ,east and of ,europe4 ,it came originally from the most temperate regions of ,asia2 the chivalric ,baber made it known to his ,hindoo subjects2,,ix-#aee and the ,romans introduced it into the west1 at the time of their first expedition against the ,persians4 ,melons had a prodigious success at ,rome1 and soon became a necessity with which the wealthy could not dispense4 ,the ,emperor ,tiberius1 that cruel and covetous prince1,,ix-#aef liked them so much that they were served to him every day throughout the year4 ,the ,greeks1 whose ingenious and lively imagination mingled with everything the sweet perfume of flowers1 contrived to place the seeds of melons in vessels full of rose leaves1 with which they were afterwards sown4 ,they maintained that1 when at maturity1 this cool and refreshing vegetable was impregnated with sweet emanations1 and that its flavour called to mind its sweet and delicious abode with the queen of flowers4,,ix-#aeg ,sometimes also they macerated the seeds in milk and honey4 ,not only melons1 but all the cucurbitace were treated in this manner1 when it was wished to communicate to them a milder flavour4,,ix-#aeh ,in pointing out these processes in use among the ancient horticulturists1 we do not at all pledge ourselves for their efficacy4 ,however1 it must be acknowledged that they exhibit a singularly praiseworthy emulation1 which has perhaps prepared the way for the wonders with which our modern gardeners have made us familiar4 ,independently of its exquisite flavour1 the melon passed1 among the ,greeks and ,romans1 as being very beneficial to the stomach and head4,,ix-#aei ,it is possible that they may have gone a little too far2 but then man is so ready to give imaginary qualities to what he loves1 that we cannot wonder at their praises of this delicious plant1 which we generally eat in the most simple manner1 without any other seasoning than a little sugar1 sometimes with salt and pepper4 ,not so with the ,romans2 their practised palates required a more exquisite combination2 they1 therefore1 added to it a sharp savoury sauce--a compound of pepper1 pennyroyal1 honey1 or sun-made wine1 garum1 vinegar1 and sylphium4,,ix-#afj ,melons were not known in central or northern ,europe until the reign of ,charles ,,viii41 ,king of ,france1 who brought them from ,italy4,,ix-#afa ,,radish4 ,amongst other singularities which abound in the ,talmud1 the curious can but have remarked the following3 ,judea formerly produced kitchen garden plants so large1 that a fox bethought himself to hollow a radish1 and make it his residence4 ,after he had removed1 this new kind of lair was discovered2 it was put into a scale1 and found to weigh nearly one hundred pounds4,,ix-#afb ,it is a pity that no one preserved the seed of so remarkable a vegetable1 which no doubt was only to be found in ,judea4 ,the ,greeks had very fine radishes1 but they were not of such a surprising size4 ,they procured them from the territory of ,mantinea4,,ix-#afc ,mount ,algidea also furnished the ,romans with an excellent kind1,,ix-#afd but which they esteemed less highly than those of ,nursia1,,ix-#afe in the country of the ,sabines4 ,these latter cost about threepence a pound in the time of ,pliny2 they were sold for double that sum when the crop was not abundant4,,ix-#aff ,writers of antiquity notice three distinct kinds of radishes3 the large1 short1 and thick2 the round2 and the wild4,,ix-#afg ,they fancied that1 at the end of three years1 the seed of this plant produced very good cabbages1,,ix-#afh which must have been rather vexatious1 at times1 to honest gardeners who might have preferred radishes4 ,in times of popular tumult this root was often transformed into an ignominious projectile1 with which the mob pursued persons whose political opinions rendered them obnoxious to the majority1 as we might say in the present day4,,ix-#afi ,as soon as calm was re-established1 the insulting vegetable was placed in the pot to boil1 and afterwards eaten with oil and a little vinegar4,,ix-#agj ,the ,romans preserved radishes very well1 by covering them with a paste composed of honey1 vinegar1 and salt4,,ix-#aga ,,horse-,,radish4 8,by ,apollo60 cried1 mournfully1 a philanthropic and gastronomic ,greek1 8one must be completely mad to buy horse-radish1 when fish can be found in the market40,,ix-#agb ,so thought the philosopher ,amphis4 ,and at ,rome1 as in ,greece1 this reviled and despised root hardly found a place on the table of the poor1 when anything else could be had4 ,there were several serious causes for this fatal proscription3 this plant was found to be bitter1 stringy1 and of difficult digestion2,,ix-#agc it was looked upon as a very common food2,,ix-#agd the lowest class alone dared to feed upon it2 the opulent were therefore compelled to exclude it from the number of their dishes4 ,and again1 certain strange customs1 authorised by the ,roman law1 contributed greatly to make the horse-radish an object of horror and detestation2 so true it is1 that the manner in which objects are associated with our ideas determines almost invariably our love or hatred for them4 ,nevertheless1 all the species of this vegetable 7and there were five in number1 distinctly mentioned by ,theophrastus,,ix-#age7 ought not to have been condemned so severely4 ,the ,corinthian1 the ,leiothasian1 the ,cleonian1 the ,amorean1 and the ,botian1 were so many distinct and separate species1 each of which possessed its own peculiar property and quality4,,ix-#agf ,the last-named1 with its large and silky leaves1 was tender1 and had a sweet1 agreeable taste4,,ix-#agg ,the others1 not so good1 perhaps1 were wholesome and nourishing1 and their natural bitterness never failed to disappear1 when the seeds were allowed to soak for some time in sweet or raisin wine before they were sown4,,ix-#agh ,shall we now mention the properties the horse-radish possessed1 and which ought to have been sufficient to establish its reputation1 if prejudice were not both deaf and blind8 ,take1 fasting1 some pieces of this beneficent and despised root1 and the most inveterate poisons will be changed for you into inoffensive drinks4,,ix-#agi ,would you have the power to handle and play with those dangerous reptiles whose active venom causes a speedy and sure death8 ,wash your hands in the juice of horse-radish4,,ix-#ahj ,do you seek an efficacious remedy for the numerous evils which besiege us unceasingly8 ,take horse-radish1--nothing but horse-radish4,,ix-#aha ,it is true that this incomparable root attacks the enamel of the teeth1 and1 indeed1 soon spoils them2,,ix-#ahb but why should we be so particular when so many marvellous properties are in question8 ,as to its culinary preparation1 ,apicius recommends us to serve it mixed with pepper and garum4,,ix-#ahc ,,garlic4 ,garlic was known in the most remote ages4 ,it was a god in ,egypt4,,ix-#ahd ,the ,greeks held it in horror4 ,it was part of their military food--hence came the proverb1 8,eat neither garlic nor beans20 that is to say1 abstain from war and law4,,ix-#ahe ,there was a belief that this plant excited the courage of warriors2 therefore1 it was given to cocks to incite them to fight4 ,the ,greek and ,roman sailors made as great a use of it as the soldiers1,,ix-#ahf and an ample provision was always made when they set out on any maritime expedition4,,ix-#ahg ,it was a prevailing opinion that the effects of foul air were neutralized by garlic2 and it was1 no doubt1 this idea which made reapers and peasants use it so lavishly4,,ix-#ahh ,however1 the taste for this vegetable was not always confined to the people1 in the southern countries of ,europe2 it gained1 at times1 the high regions of the court4 ,it is reported that1 in #acfh1 ,alphonso1 ,king of ,castile1 who had an extreme repugnance to garlic1 instituted an order of knighthood2 and one of the statutes was1 that any knight who had eaten of this plant1 could not appear before the sovereign for at least one month4,,ix-#ahi ,the priests of ,cybele interdicted the entry of the temple of this goddess to persons who had made use of garlic4 ,stilphon1 troubling himself very little about this interdiction1 fell asleep on the steps of the altar4 ,the mother of the gods appeared to him in his dream1 and reproached him with the little respect his breath disclosed for her4 8,if you wish me to abstain from garlic10 replied ,stilphon1 8give me something else to eat40,,ix-#aij ,the ancients1 great lovers of the marvellous1 believed that this despised vegetable possessed a sovereign virtue against the greater number of diseases1,,ix-#aia and that it was easy to deprive it of its penetrating odour by sowing and gathering it when the moon was below the horizon4,,ix-#aib ,the ,greek and ,roman cooks used it but very seldom1 and it was only employed as a second or third-rate ingredient in some preparations of ,apicius which we shall hereafter mention4 8,garlic is called the physic of the peasantry1 especially in warm countries1 where it is eaten before going to work1 in order to guarantee them from the pernicious effects of foul air4 ,it would be too long were we to relate all that has been written in favour of this vegetable2 let it suffice to say that it is employed in numerous pharmaceutical preparations1 and among others in vinegar1 celebrated by the name of aromatic vinegar40--,,bosc4 ,,eschalots4 ,alexander the ,great found the eschalot in ,phnicia1 and introduced it into ,greece4 ,its ,latin name1 ,ascalonica1 indicates the place of its origin1 ,ascalon1 a city of ,idumea4,,ix-#aic ,its affinity with garlic set the ancients against its culinary qualities1 and this useful plant1 too much neglected1 only obtained credit in modern times4 ,,parsley4 ,hercules1 the conqueror of the ,neman lion1 crowned himself with parsley2 a rather modest adornment for so great a hero1 when others1 for exploits much less worthy1 were decked with laurels4 ,a similar crown became1 subsequently1 the prize of the ,neman,,ix-#aid and ,isthmian ,games4,,ix-#aie ,anacreon1 that amiable and frivolous poet1 who consecrated all his moments to pleasure1 celebrates parsley as the emblem of joy and festivity2,,ix-#aif and ,horace1 a philosophic sensualist of the same stamp1 commanded his banquetting hall to be ornamented with roses and parsley4,,ix-#aig ,perhaps it was thought that the strong1 penetrating odour of parsley possessed the property of exciting the brain to agreeable imaginations2 if so1 it explains the fact of its being worn by guests1 placed round their heads4 ,fable has made it the food of ,juno's coursers4,,ix-#aih ,in battle1 the warriors of ,homer fed their chargers with it2,,ix-#aii and ,melancholy1 taking it for the symbol of mourning1 admitted it at the dismal repasts of obsequies4,,ix-#bjj ,let us seek to discover in this plant qualities less poetic and less brilliant1 but1 assuredly1 more real and positive4 ,in the first place3-- ,wash some parsley with the roots adhering2 dry it well in the sun2 boil it in water1 and leave it awhile on one side2 then put into a saucepan some garlic and leeks1 which must boil together a long time1 and very slowly1 until reduced to two-thirds--that done1 pound some pepper1 mix it with gravy and a little honey1 strain the water in which the parsley was boiled1 and pour it over the parsley and the whole of the other ingredients4 ,put the stewpan once more on the fire1 and serve4,,ix-#bja ,the following recipe is much less complicated and more expeditious3-- ,boil the parsley in water1 with nitre2 press out all the water2 cut it very fine2 then mix1 with care1 some pepper1 alisander1 marjoram and onions2 add some wine1 gravy1 and oil2 stew the whole1 with the parsley1 in an earthen pot or stewpan4,,ix-#bjb ,if the illustrious pupil of ,chiron1 the warlike ,achilles1 had known the culinary properties of parsley as well as he knew its medicinal virtues1 he no doubt would have been less prodigal with it for his horses2,,ix-#bjc and the conquerors of ,troy would have comforted themselves1 during the tediousness of a long siege1 by cooking this aromatic plant1 and enjoying a new dish4 ,parsley1 according to some writers1 was of ,egyptian origin2 but it is not known who brought it into ,sardinia1 where it was found by the ,carthaginians1 who afterwards made it known to the inhabitants of ,marseilles4 ,,chervil4 ,this plant1 which ,columella has described1,,ix-#bjd furnished a relishing dish1 prepared with gravy1 oil1 and wine2 or served with fried fish4,,ix-#bje ,at the present day it is highly commendable in salad4 ,,water-,,cresses4 ,the water-cress1 the sight alone of which made the learned ,scaliger shudder with terror1 is supposed to be a native of ,crete4 ,it was1 doubtless1 the cresses of ,alen 7,suabia71 which are cultivated in our gardens1 and not those commonly found in brooks and springs4 ,the ,persians were in the habit of eating them with bread3,,ix-#bjf they made1 in this manner1 so delicious a meal1 that the splendour of a ,syracusan table would not have tempted them4,,ix-#bjg ,this is one of those examples of sobriety which may be admired1 but are seldom followed4 ,plutarch did not share the opinion of the ,persians1 but scornfully ranked cresses amongst the lowest aliments of the people4,,ix-#bjh ,nevertheless1 the ,romans1 as well as the ,greeks1 granted to this cruciform plant a host of beneficent qualities1 and among others1 a singularly refreshing property4 ,refreshing6 to say the truth1 it refreshes much in the same way that mustard and pepper do4,,ix-#bji ,boiled in goat's milk1 it cured thoracic affections2,,ix-#baj introduced into the ears1 it relieved the toothache3,,ix-#baa and finally1 persons who made it their habitual food found their wits sharpened and their intelligence more active and ingenious4,,ix-#bab ,however1 it does not appear that cresses ever enjoyed1 in ,rome or ,athens1 a culinary vogue equal to their officinal reputation2 it was said that its acrid taste twisted the nose1,,ix-#bac and this coarse jest naturally did it harm to a certain degree with the rich and delicate4 ,be that as it may1 those who dared1 ate it dressed in the following manner3-- ,with garum1 or oil and vinegar2,,ix-#bad or with pepper1 cummin-seed1 and lentiscus 7leaves of the mastic-tree74,,ix-#bae ,the water-cress par excellence grows in springs1 rivulets1 and ditches1 in ,europe4 ,its piquant taste is rather agreeable2 it is eaten as a salad or seasoning1 with poultry and other roasted meat4 ,this plant increases the appetite1 fortifies the stomach1 and possesses anti-scorbutic qualities4 ,a great consumption is made of it in certain countries4 ,it is cultivated in running waters1 either in gardens1 or sown in the shade1 where it is watered abundantly4 ,the less it sees the sun1 the softer it is4--,,bosc4 ,x4 ,,plants ,,used ,,in ,,seasoning4 ,we will point out1 as briefly as possible1 those plants mostly used in the kitchens of the ancients to heighten the flavour of their dishes1 or to give them a particular taste1 according as the dish or fancy might require it4 ,in them especially lies the secret of those irritamenta gul1 or excitements of the palate1 which ,apicius brought so much into fashion4 ,,poppy4 ,the seed of this plant was offered1 fried1 at the beginning of the second course1 and eaten with honey4,x-#a ,sometimes it was sprinkled on the crust of a kind of household bread1 covered with white of eggs4,x-#b ,some of it was also put into the panada1 or pap1 intended for children,x-#c--perhaps to make them sleep the sooner4 ,,sesame4 ,this seed was used in nearly the same manner as the poppy1 and it occupied a distinguished rank among the numerous dainties served at dessert4,x-#d ,certain round and light cakes were covered with this seed4,x-#e ,the ,romans brought sesame from ,egypt4,x-#f ,,sow-,,thistle4 ,this plant furnished a kind of milk1 which was sometimes drunk3 sometimes various kinds of meat were seasoned with it4,x-#g ,it was afterwards given up to rabbits1 and there is every probability that they will retain undisputed possession of it4 ,,orach4 ,few vegetables have been more exposed to injurious accusations4 ,pythagoras reproaches it with causing a livid paleness1 dropsy1 and the scrofula1 in those persons who eat it4,x-#h ,nevertheless1 a greedy curiosity introduced it into the catalogue of culinary preparations1 and the guests of ,apicius tasted more than once the fatal orach without knowing its pernicious properties4 ,history does not say that they suffered any pernicious effects from it4 ,this plant is also eaten like spinach1 and mixed with sorrel to soften its acidity4--,,bosc4 ,,rocket4 ,persons about to undergo the punishment of the whip were recommended to swallow a cup of wine1 in which rocket had been steeped4 ,it was asserted that this draught rendered pain supportable4,x-#i ,and again1 that this plant1 taken with honey1 removed the freckles which sometimes appear on the face4,x-#aj ,whatever may be the degree of credence accorded to these two recipes1 this vegetable enjoyed some reputation among the ancients1 who mixed the wild and the garden rocket together1 so as to temper the heat of the one by the coldness of the other4,x-#aa ,,fennel4 ,it was employed but seldom in the preparation of dishes or pastry2 but it was believed that the juice of its stalk had the property of restoring or strengthening the sight4,x-#ab ,,dill4 ,this plant1 which1 according to the ancients1 weakened the eyes1,x-#ac was much renowned for its exquisite odour1,x-#ad and its stomachic qualities4,x-#ae ,a much-admired perfume,x-#af was made from it2 it produced an agreeable sort of wine or liqueur2,x-#ag and a small number of choice dishes1 for the enjoyment of connoisseurs1 owed to it the reputation they had acquired4,x-#ah ,,anise-,,seed4 ,the production of an umbelliferous plant1 which grows wild in ,egypt1 in ,syria1 and other eastern countries4 ,pliny recommends it to be taken in the morning1 with honey and myrrh in wine3,x-#ai and ,pythagoras attributes to it eminent ,hygeian properties1 whether eaten raw or cooked4,x-#bj ,,hyssop4 ,the ,greeks1 the ,romans--and before them1 the nations of the east,x-#ba--;believed that hyssop renews and purifies the blood4 ,this plant1 mixed with an equal quantity of salt1 formed a remedy much extolled by ,columella4,x-#bb ,it was crushed with oil to make a liniment1 used as a remedy for cutaneous eruptions4,x-#bc ,an excellent liqueur was obtained from it1 known under the name of hyssop wine2,x-#bd and lastly1 this plant was used in a number of dishes1 which it rendered more wholesome and refreshing4 ,,wild ,,marjoram4 ,nearly the same qualities were attributed to this herb as to hyssop2,x-#be and it was employed still more frequently in the composition of the most delicate condiments4 ,dioscorides,x-#bf and ,cato,x-#bg make copious remarks on a much-esteemed liqueur1 which they called wild marjoram wine4 ,,savory4 ,an odoriferous herb1 which entered into the seasoning of nearly every dish4,x-#bh ,,thyme4 ,besides the various culinary purposes for which the ancients used this plant1 they1 like ourselves1 extracted from thyme aromatic liqueurs1,x-#bi the preparation of which will be given in another part of this work4 ,,wild ,,thyme4 ,we find it rarely spoken of by magiric writers4 ,pliny believes it to be most efficacious against the bite of serpents4,x-#cj ,,sweet ,,marjoram4,x-#ca ,was much employed in the ,isle of ,cyprus2 very little1 if at all1 in ,rome1 where they knew little more of sweet marjoram than the oil extracted from it4,x-#cb ,,pennyroyal4 ,the ancients entwined their wine caps with pennyroyal1,x-#cc and made crowns of it1 which were placed on their heads during their repasts1 by the aid of which they hoped to escape the troublesome consequences of too copious libations4,x-#cd ,on leaving the table1 a small quantity of this plant was taken1 to facilitate digestion4,x-#ce ,pennyroyal occupied1 also1 an important place in high gastronomic combinations4 ,,rue4 ,the territory of ,myra1 a city of ,lycia1 produced excellent rue4,x-#cf ,mithridates looked upon this vegetable as a powerful counter-poison2,x-#cg and the inhabitants of ,heraclea1 suspicious--and with reason--of the villany of their tyrant1 ,clearchus1 never stirred from their dwellings without having previously eaten plentifully of rue4,x-#ch ,this plant cured also the ear-ache2,x-#ci and to all these advantages1 it joined that of being welcomed with honour on all festive occasions4,x-#dj ,,mint4 ,there was formerly--no matter where or when--a beautiful young girl1 who was changed into this plant through the jealous vengeance of ,proserpine4,x-#da ,thus transformed1 she excited the appetite of the guests1 and awakened their slumbering gaiety4,x-#db ,mint prevented milk from curdling1 even when rennet was put into it4,x-#dc ,,spanish ,,camomile4 ,the ,romans sometimes mixed with their drink the burning root of the ,spanish camomile2,x-#dd and we are astonished at meeting with the name of this formidable plant among the ingredients of some of their dishes4 ,,cummin4 ,the condiments prepared with cummin had a very great reputation2 and culinary authors frequently mention this vegetable1 which the ,greeks and ,romans invariably used4,x-#de ,,alisander4 ,the same might be said of alisander1 which1 in the time of ,pliny1 passed as an universal remedy1,x-#df and which ,apicius honours by naming in many of his dishes4 ,,capers4 ,young buds of the caper tree1 a shrub--native of ,asia1 where the species are in great varieties4 ,it was but little thought of at the tables of the higher classes1 and therefore was left to the people4,x-#dg ,the buds of the caper are gathered1 and thrown into barrels filled with vinegar1 to which a little salt is added2 then1 by means of several large sieves made of a copper plate1 rather hollow1 and pierced with holes of different sizes1 the different qualities are separated1 and classed under different numbers4 ,the vinegar is renewed1 and the capers are replaced in the barrel1 ready for exportation4 ,,asaf,,tida4 ,this plant1 which we have excluded from our kitchens1 and whose nauseous smell is far from exciting the appetite1 reigned almost as the chief ingredient in the seasoning of the ancients4 ,perhaps they cultivated a kind which in no way resembled that of modern times4 ,if it were the same1 how are we to explain the extreme partiality which ,apicius shows for it8 and which he says must be dissolved in luke-warm water1 and afterwards served with vinegar and garum4,x-#dh ,it is certain that the resin drawn by incision from the root of this plant is still much esteemed by the inhabitants of ,persia and of ,india2 they chew it constantly1 finding the odour and taste exquisite4 8,the neck of the root is cleared of the earth it is covered with1 and replaced by a handful of herbs4 ,at the end of forty days the summit of the root is out transversely2 then a small bundle of herbs is laid over1 so as not to touch it4 ,a whitish liquor exudes from the cut1 and every other day it is gathered2 the cut is renewed until the root is quite exhausted4 ,the result of this crop is laid on leaves1 and dried in the sun40--,,bosc4 ,,sumach4 ,the ,romans made use of the seed to flavour several kinds of dishes4,x-#di ,,ginger4 ,this root was known at ,rome under the ,emperors1 and many persons have confounded ginger with pepper1 although they in no way resemble each other4 ,pliny refutes this error1 and represents it as a native of ,arabia4,x-#ej ,it was used with other condiments4,x-#ea 8,the ,indians grate this root in their broth or ragot2 they make a paste which they believe is good against the scurvy4 ,the inhabitants of ,madagascar eat it green1 in salad1 cut in small pieces1 and mixed with other herbs1 which they season with salt1 oil1 and vinegar4 ,in other places ginger is taken infused as a drink2 it fortifies the chest1 and awakens the appetite4 ,it is preserved in sugar after it has been stripped of its bark1 and soaked in vinegar4 ,delicious preserves are made of it with much perfume1 and which keep a very long time40--,,dutour4 ,,wormwood4 ,the ,egyptians had a great respect for the wormwood of ,taposiris1--no doubt on account of the medicinal properties which physicians attributed to it4 ,heliogabalus often regaled the populace with wormwood wine1,x-#eb and the ,romans gave it to the victorious charioteers4 ,pliny thinks this plant so salutary that nothing more precious could have been presented to them4,x-#ec ,this explanation appears to have had but little plausibility1 and it has been more rationally supposed that this liquor prevented or counteracted any giddiness they might feel4 8,you can cure yourself of dizziness10 says ,strabo1 8with the bitter leaf of wormwood40,x-#ed ,the ,roman wormwood wine was composed in the following manner3 ,they bruised one ounce of this vegetable1 and mixed it with three scruples of gum1 as much spikenard1 six of balm1 and three scruples of saffron2 to which was added eighteen setiers1 or #ahj gallons ,english1 of old wine4 ,this mixture was left to stand some time1 but was not heated or subjected to any other process4,x-#ee ,in pharmacy1 wine is made of wormwood2 also a syrup1 a preserve1 an extract1 oil by infusion1 an essential oil1 and wormwood salt4 ,it is supposed that several brewers on the ,continent substitute the leaves and flowers of this plant for hops1 in the manufacture of beer4 ,it is1 perhaps1 a calumny1 and we only repeat it in a whisper4 8,the leaves of wormwood are used in salad to make it more digestible and heighten the flavour4 ,they are preserved in vinegar1 and to season dishes4 ,lastly1 they are considered by some persons as a remedy1 and the frequent use of them to be indispensable for the preservation of their existence40--,,bosc4 99 99 99 99 99 ,in concluding this chapter1 it will be necessary to anticipate a question which naturally presents itself3 did the ,romans know the art of forcing fruits1 and of procuring1 at one season1 the various vegetables or plants which belong to another period of the year8 ,some verses from ,martial will leave no doubt on the subject3-- 8,whoever has seen the orchards of the ,king of ,corcyrus 7,alcinous71 dear ,entellus1 must have preferred thy rural habitation4 ,thou knowest how to preserve from the rigours of winter the purple grapes of thy vine bower1 and prevent the cold frost from devouring the gifts of ,bacchus4 ,thy grapes live enclosed under a transparent crystal1 which covers without concealing them4 8,what can avaricious nature refuse to the industry of man8 ,sterile winter is constrained to give up the fruits of autumn40,x-#ef ,this curious passage gives us to understand that the ,romans had hot-houses and1 no doubt1 glass bells in their orchards and gardens1 to bring sooner to maturity some of those productions of the earth which1 by their delicate flavour and perfume1 raised the insatiable desires of a people1 decidedly the greatest epicureans ever known in the history of gastronomy to the present day4 ,,xi4 ,,fruits4 ,when the ,creator placed the first man in the ,garden of ,eden1 he commanded him to nourish himself with the fruit it contained2,,xi-#a and1 from that epoch1 the most ancient which the sacred work records1 this kind of aliment is incessantly mentioned in the history of all nations1 and at every period of their history4 ,the great ,hebrew legislator seems to have considered fruit trees worthy of his especial care1 for he forbad the ,jews to cut them down1 even on their enemies' lands2,,xi-#b and1 in order to teach his people how to preserve them in all their vigour1 he declares the fruits of the first three years impure1 and consecrates to the ,lord those of the fourth4,,xi-#c ,he even goes further2 he exempts from military service any one who has planted a vineyard1 and all fruit trees conferred the same privilege until the first vintage4,,xi-#d ,heathen nations also understood the importance of this branch of agriculture1 and invented protective divinities--such as ,pomona1,,xi-#e ,vertumnus1,,xi-#f ,priapus,,xi-#g--whose sole care consisted in protecting orchards from the inclemency of the seasons1 and dispelling insects and robbers1 who would damage and plunder the crops4 ,each kind had1 moreover1 a benevolent patron1 who could not honestly refuse to be useful to it3 thus the olive tree grew under the auspices of ,minerva2,,xi-#h the ,muses cherished the palm tree2,,xi-#i the pine and its cone were consecrated to the great ,cybele2,,xi-#aj ,bacchus complacently ripened the perfumed pulp of the fig,,xi-#aa and the rosy grape1,,xi-#ab which placed him on a level with the gods4 ,among the ,greeks1 fruits appeared on table at the second course2,,xi-#ac and were eaten either cooked1 raw1 or in the form of preserves4 ,the ,romans sometimes breakfasted on a small quantity of dried fruits2,,xi-#ad but the third course of their cna1 or principal repast1 offered an incredible profusion of the productions of their own orchards1 and of those of three parts of the world4,,xi-#ae ,rich patricians1 after they had exhausted all the immense resources of an incredible luxury--in their garments1 habitations1 and banquets--contrived to plant fruit trees on the summit of high towers1 and on the house tops2,,xi-#af thus suspending forests over their heads1,,xi-#ag as well as vast reservoirs1 to keep alive the most exquisite fish4,,xi-#ah ,at ,rome they had an expensive1 but1 as they thought1 effective process of preparing pears1 apples1 plums1 figs1 cherries1 c41 c41 and which was as follows3-- ,the fruit was chosen with great care1 and put1 with the stalks attached1 into honey1 leaving to each one sufficient space to prevent their touching each other4,,xi-#ai ,our housewives of the #aith century may1 perhaps1 be curious to try this ,roman experiment1 if the quantity of honey which it requires does not frighten them4 ,,xii4 ,,stone ,,fruit4 ,,olive ,,tree4 ,throughout antiquity we find the olive tree acknowledged as something venerable and holy1 and taking precedence of all other trees1 even the most useful on account of their nourishing fruits1 or the refreshing drink they furnished4 ,the wise ,minerva gave it birth2,,xii-#a and its foliage1 which adorned the brows of the goddess1,,xii-#b served1 thenceforth1 to crown victory1,,xii-#c or to give rise to the sweet hopes of peace4,,xii-#d ,a green bough of olive rendered the suppliant inviolable4,,xii-#e ,the deadly arrows of ,hercules were made of its wood4,,xii-#f ,from it princes borrowed their sceptre,,xii-#g and the shepherd his crook4,,xii-#h ,if1 abandoning mythological fictions which surround the olive with a charming but false poetry1 we interrogate history for more certain information concerning this revered tree1 we shall find that ,diodorus1 of ,sicily1 informs us ,minerva discovered and made known to the ,athenians its useful qualities4,,xii-#i ,and a writer1 in whose possession the most ancient records in the world were found--,moses--who has recounted the birth of vegetation1,,xii-#aj tells us also of a patriarch pouring purified oil on a stone altar1,,xii-#aa before the olive tree was known in ,athens--nay1 before ,athens existed4 ,profane historians honour ,aristeus1 son of ,apollo1 and ,king of ,arcadia1 with the invention of oil mills1 and the manner of procuring the precious fluid1,,xii-#ab the abundance of which was such1 in the ,east1 that it was used in lamps1,,xii-#ac in anointing1,,xii-#ad in seasoning of dishes1,,xii-#ae and in numerous other instances too long to enumerate4,,xii-#af ,thus the most important culture among the ,jews was that of the olive tree4 ,there were large plantations of it in all the provinces3 ,galilea1 ,samaria1 and ,judea1 were full of them4,,xii-#ag ,it must not1 however1 be thought the ,hebrews used olives only to make oil2 they knew how to preserve them in brine1 to be eaten at table1 and for sale to strangers4 ,pliny particularly extols those of ,decapolis1 a province of the ,holy ,land3 8,they are very small10 he says1 8not larger than capers2 but are much esteemed40,,xii-#ah ,among the ,greeks1 the oil of ,samos was considered to be the purest and finest3,,xii-#ai next to it they gave preference to that of ,caria or of ,thurium4,,xii-#bj ,as regards olives1 the ,colymbades1 or floating kinds were more esteemed than any other1 on account of their size and taste2,,xii-#ba they had an exquisite flavour imparted to them by being placed with different herbs in pots of oil3,,xii-#bb the ,halmade olives were preserved in brine4,,xii-#bc ,the cultivation of the olive tree was carried to a great extent in ,greece2 a host of poets sang in honour of this tree1,,xii-#bd which produced so sweet a fruit2 and ,theophrastus speaks of it very frequently in his celebrated treatise on plants4,,xii-#be ,the ,romans were not acquainted with it until later2 and even in the year #bdi ,b4,c41 they possessed so few olive trees that a pound of oil sold for twelve ,as1 or three shillings2 less than two centuries after 7#gd ,b4,c471 ten pounds of it only cost one ,as2 but ,italy had so far increased its plantations at the end of a few years 7#eb ,b4,c47 that it was able to furnish olive trees to the neighbouring countries4,,xii-#bf ,its olives and oil were thought excellent2 however1 those of ,grenada and ,andalusia were preferred to them1 even in the time of ,pliny1,,xii-#bg on account of their sweetness and delicate flavour4 ,that illustrious naturalist has transmitted to us particulars of the highest interest on the cultivation of the olive tree1 and the various preparations which its fruit requires1 or rather1 to which it is necessarily subjected for the luxury of the table4,,xii-#bh ,those who are curious on this subject may also consult ,cato 7the first among the ,romans who has written on this tree71,,xii-#bi ,varro1,,xii-#cj and ,columella1,,xii-#ca concerning the art of raising the plants1 of gathering the olives1 of extracting the oil1 and of preserving the olives themselves4 ,this latter operation was performed as follows3-- ,they took twenty-five pounds of olives1 six pounds of quick-lime1 broken very small and dissolved in water1 to which twelve pounds of oak ashes and water in proportion were added4 ,the olives were left to soak for eight or ten hours in this lye2 then taken out1 washed with care1 and immersed for eight days in very clear soft water1 which was changed several times4 ,they then took hot water in which some stems of fennel had been infused2 this plant was taken out1 and the same water saturated with salt until an egg would float4 ,when it was quite cold1 the olives were put into this pickle4,,xii-#cb ,as regards the large olives1 or colymbades1 they were sometimes crushed after the first operation1 that the brine might penetrate more easily2 and odoriferous herbs were added to give them a better flavour4 ,this was the way they prepared those from the marshes of ,ancona--the only ones admitted at the tables of gourmets4,,xii-#cc ,at ,rome1 olives made their appearance in the first course1 at the beginning of the repast2 but sometimes1 after their introduction1 the gluttony of the guests caused them to be served again with the dessert3 so that they opened and closed the banquet4,,xii-#cd ,the distributions of oil1 to which ,latin authors often allude1 were somewhat rare for a long period4 ,the people looked upon this fluid more as an object of luxury than a necessary of life1 and it was only on extraordinary occasions that they were gratified with it4 ,thus1 when ,scipio ,africanus began his curule edileship1 each citizen received a measure of oil4,,xii-#ce ,after his example1 ,agrippa made similar distributions1 in the reign of ,augustus4 ,they became more frequent under the ,emperors2 and ,severus ordered that an immense quantity should be brought into ,rome4,,xii-#cf ,venafra1 a town of ,campania1 supplied excellent oil4,,xii-#cg ,pliny says that it surpassed that of all the rest of ,italy4,,xii-#ch ,however in those days1 as at present1 much was consumed of a very bad quality3 for instance1 that which was served by a clumsy ,amphytrion to ,julius ,csar1 and with which this prince seemed perfectly satisfied--a proof that the celebrated warrior was either a man of exquisite politeness or an epicure of very scanty ability4,,xii-#ci ,independently of the culinary preparations in which oil was abundantly used1 the ancients also employed much of it for anointing themselves2 and1 when at the bath1 a slave always carried some in a vase1,,xii-#dj with which they were rubbed4 ,it was believed that the vital heat was thus concentrated1 the strength increased1 and health preserved4 ,augustus inquiring one day of ,pollio what ought to be done to preserve health in extreme old age3 8,very little10 was his answer2 8drink wine1 and rub yourself with oil40,,xii-#da ,we sall conclude this article by transcribing the recipe of an odoriferous oil for which the ,liburnians were celebrated1 and which ,apicius considered worthy of his attention4 ,pound some alder and cyperus 7sedges7 with green laurel leaves till they are reduced to a very fine powder--put this powder into ,spanish oil1 add a condiment of salt1,,xii-#db and stir this mixture with great care for three days or more1 then let it remain for some time4,,xii-#dc ,olive oil was little known in ,france under the two first races of her kings4 ,in the reign of ,charlemagne it was drawn from the east and ,africa1 and was so rare that the ,council of ,aix-la-chapelle 7#hag7 allowed the monks to make use of the oil from bacon4 ,in #adia the ,pope allowed ,queen ,anne 7of ,bretagne71 then afterwards the whole province1 and successively the other ,french provinces1 the use of butter in seasoning on fast days4 ,,palm ,,tree4 ,the poet ,pontanus has related1 in beautiful ,latin verses1 the history of two palm trees cultivated in the kingdom of ,naples4 ,for a long time there had been a fine one growing in the environs of ,otranto1 loaded every year with flowers1 and yet producing no fruit1 in spite of the vigour of the tree and the heat of the climate4 ,but one summer every one was much surprised at seeing this same tree produce a quantity of excellent and very ripe fruit4 ,astonishment changed into admiration when it was discovered that another palm tree1 cultivated at ,brindes 7fifteen leagues distant71 had that same year blossomed for the first time4 ,from that period the palm tree of ,otranto continued to yield fruit every year1 notwithstanding the distance between it and the one at ,brindes4,,xii-#dd ,the palm tree1 which mythologic ages consecrated to the ,muses1,,xii-#de was very common with the ,hebrews1,,xii-#df to whom it supplied an exhilarating beverage called sechar1 which is often mentioned with wine of the grape4,,xii-#dg ,moreover1 everything was useful in this tree4 ,the wood was employed for constructing buildings and for fuel2 the leaves were used to make ropes1 mats1 and baskets2 and the fruit served as food for man and cattle4,,xii-#dh ,from the dates a great quantity of honey was extracted1 but very little inferior to ordinary honey2,,xii-#di and those which were not consumed were sent abroad with so much the more ease that they keep well4,,xii-#ej ,according to ,pliny1 this fruit was in reputation in ,greece and ,rome2 and he names several excellent species which came from ,judea1 and principally from ,jericho and the valleys of ,archelais1 ,livias1 and ,phasaelis4,,xii-#ea ,two ,greek writers,,xii-#eb inform us that the favourite of ,herod1 ,nicolas of ,damascus1 a poet1 philosopher1 and historian1 much liked by ,augustus1 sent to the ,roman ,emperor every year a peculiar kind of date from ,palestine2 and that the monarch1 who became very partial to them1 gave them the name of his friend4 ,bread and cakes were also made with them4 ,we shall often have occasion to remark that dates were frequently introduced in the composition of the most exquisite dishes of the ,romans4 ,dates not quite ripe1 if exposed to the sun1 become in the first place soft1 then pulpy1 and lastly acquire a consistency similar to that of ,french plums2 they can then be preserved1 and sent to foreign markets4 ,riper dates are squeezed to draw out a sweet juice1 very pleasant1 and which is put1 together with the other part1 in large vessels1 and kept in that state1 or buried in the earth4 ,these are the ones commonly used by the rich as food2 the others are given up to the poorer class4 ,dates are eaten either with or without preparation1 or mixed with different kinds of viands4 ,their syrup is used as a sauce to various dishes4 ,they are also completely dried for exportation2 when reduced into flour1 the caravans in the ,desert employ them as food4 ,by crushing them in soft water wine is made1 which produces a strong spirit1 very agreeable4 ,the best dates are yellowish1 semi-transparent1 odoriferous1 and sweet4 ,,cherry ,,tree4 ,when on a very hot summer day some inviting cherries deliciously quench our burning thirst1 we very little think of offering to ,mithridates a souvenir of affection and gratitude4 ,such is man3 he enjoys his wealth1 and cares very little for the benefactor who has procured it for him4 ,this ancient ,king of ,pontus1 of toxologic memory1 and better known by physicians than gardeners1 did not1 however1 pass the whole of his life in composing poisons and their antidotes2 for his royal hands planted1 and sometimes grafted1 and it is to this useful pastime that we are indebted,,xii-#ec for the sweet fruit1 the name of which recalls to mind the city or country which was its birth-place4 ,ancient authors have told us1 it is true1 that ,europe is indebted for its cherries to ,lucullus1,,xii-#ed and that he made use of the cherry tree to ornament his triumphal car2 honour is therefore due to the ,roman general1 but on condition that ,mithridates shall lose nothing of his glory1 or be eclipsed by the renown of this great conqueror4 ,the researches of several naturalists lead us to believe that cherry trees already existed at that period in ,gaul4 ,this tree delights in cold climates2 and the wildest forests of ,france contain almost the whole of its varieties4 ,perhaps at ,rome they knew no other than the wild cherry tree1 which on that account was very little sought after1 and ,lucullus probably brought it to notice by bringing some grafts or fruits from ,cerasus4 ,in this manner the passage of ,pliny,,xii-#ee and that of ,virgil,,xii-#ef can very well be explained1 which present the cherry tree as a new guest4 ,moreover1 the ,milesian1 ,xenophanes1 and the physician1 ,diphilus of ,siphne1 have spoken of cherries long before ,lucullus was in existence4 ,diphilus praises them in the strongest terms2 he says they are stomachic1 and have a delicious flavour4,,xii-#eg ,this certainly cannot apply to the sour wild fruit which is to be met with in the woods1 and with which the most inexperienced palate is never twice caught4 ,at all events the authority of ,theophrastus would be sufficient to remove all doubts1 if any still remained4 ,he informs us that1 in his time1 the good cherries of ,mithridates passed from ,lower ,asia into ,greece1,,xii-#eh where they were gladly received as in all other nations1 on account of their form1 taste1 and qualities4 ,this happy gastrologic event was accomplished #cjj years before the ,christian era1 whereas the introduction of cherry trees by ,lucullus took place #bbh years later4 ,the capital of the world knew not1 at first1 how to appreciate this present as it deserved3 the cherry tree was propagated so slowly in ,italy1 that more than a century after its introduction it was far from being generally cultivated4,,xii-#ei ,the ,romans distinguished three principal species of cherries3 the ,apronian1 of a bright red1 with a firm and delicate pulp2 the ,lutatian1 very black and sweet2 the ,ccilian1 round and stubby1 and much esteemed4,,xii-#fj ,this fruit embellished the third course in ,rome1 and the second at ,athens4 8,the fruit of the cherry tree is eaten raw1 cooked1 preserved with sugar1 and in brandy2 it is also preserved dry1 or made into ratafia4 ,by fermentation1 the juice of cherries1 with the kernel1 by adding sugar1 makes a very agreeable liquor1 which is called cherry wine2 a brandy is produced with fermented cherries drawn by the alembic1 very powerful2 that named kirschen wasser1 in the province of ,german-,lorraine1 is a spirituous liquor1 obtained by the distillation of various species of wild cherries40--,,bosc4 ,,apricot ,,tree4 ,the apricot tree was called by the ,romans ,armeniaca1 the tree of ,armenia1 where it originated4 ,it must be looked upon as a useful monument of the valour of the masters of the world1 if it be true that1 after their conquest1 they brought it from that province into ,rome4,,xii-#fa ,the ,latins also named the apricot prcocia 7precocious71 because it ripens at the beginning of summer 7in ,june7 before other fruits4,,xii-#fb ,at the time when ,pliny wrote 7,a4,d4 #gb7 the apricot tree had only been known at ,rome for #cj years2 and apricots1 still very rare1 cost one denarius1 or sevenpence halfpenny each3,,xii-#fc they were only to be found in the first-rate shops of the fruit market or emporium of the third region1 near the ,metasudante1 which was only open every ninth day2 or near the ,naval ,camp1 outside the ,trigemina ,gate4 ,some years later the agriculturists of the ,roman suburbs brought into the city some excellent ones at a very low price2 but the fashion and the taste for them had gone by4 8,the green apricot is preserved before the stone becomes hard2 when ripe it is eaten raw1 cooked1 or stewed in marmalade2 preserves are made of it1 as well as a dried paste1 which keeps a long time2 they are also preserved in brandy4 ,the stone as it is1 or broken1 is used in ratafia of ,noyau4 ,lastly1 the kernel produces oil40--,,dutour4 ,,peach ,,tree4 ,this fruit tree1 originally from ,persia1 was first transplanted into ,greece1,,xii-#fd where it existed a long time before it passed into ,italy4 ,it was still quite a novelty in ,rome towards the middle of the #ast century of the ,christian era1 and the rich alone could eat peaches1 for they cost no less than #aa #acs4 #d;d4 the dozen1 or #ahs4 #i;d4 each4,,xii-#fe ,this is rather dear fruit1 however good it may be4 ,but the bill of fare of certain banquets will show us1 by-and-by1 whether the ,roman gastronomics knew how to spend their gold profusely1 when they wished to satisfy a caprice or enjoy some dainty curiosity4 ,it was believed in ,rome that the peach contained a deadly poison when gathered in ,persia2,,xii-#ff but that1 once transplanted to another soil1 it lost its injurious properties4 ,this singular opinion1 still held by many persons in the present day1 has been refuted by ,pliny1 who treats it as a ridiculous idea2,,xii-#fg at any rate1 ,galen,,xii-#fh and ,dioscorides,,xii-#fi assert that this fruit is indigestible1 unwholesome1 and that it often causes fevers4 ,the high price of peaches1 and the short duration of their freshness1 caused amateurs to seek the means of preserving them for the longest possible time4 ,the following is the recipe given by ,apicius3-- 8,choose the finest of this fruit1 and place them in water1 saturated with salt4 ,the next day take them out1 dry them with the greatest care1 and then put them into a vessel with savory1 vinegar1 and salt40,,xii-#gj ,,plum ,,tree4 ,plum trees were known in ,africa from time immemorial2 and ,theophrastus speaks of the great number of these trees which were to be found at ,thebes1 ,memphis1 and especially at ,damascus4,,xii-#ga ,athenus1 also1 praises the excellent plums of this last-named city2,,xii-#gb and we know that time has not lessened their ancient reputation4 ,asia and ,egypt sent a great quantity to ,europe2 and1 in order that they might keep better during this long voyage1 a part of them were dried1 and the rest were preserved--that is to say1 the best--in honey and sweet wine4,,xii-#gc ,these were the only kind known in ,rome in the time of ,cato 7#aej years ,b4,c471 but the ,romans1 then novices in the art of good living1 would have but ill-appreciated the delicate and perfumed pulp of ,damascus plums1 at the moment when1 hardly plucked from the tree1 their fresh and velvet-like bloom delights the eye and tempts the palate of epicures4 ,two centuries later the science of good living made incredible progress4 ,a magiric atmosphere enveloped the capital of the universe with its delicious fragrance1 and the joyous free livers of ,italy cultivated in their gardens plums of the most beautiful purple and gold1,,xii-#gd far superior to the much-extolled fruit from ,damascus and ,memphis4 ,the fields everywhere offered such luxuriance of plum trees that ,pliny1 the opposition man1 or juste milieu of that time1 complained of their number1,,xii-#ge and grieved at what he fancied a useless and expensive profusion of them4 ,the ancient ,counts of ,anjou transplanted the plums of ,damascus into their province2 and the good ,king ,ren of ,sicily1 ,duke of ,anjou and ,count of ,provence1 introduced them into southern ,europe4,,xii-#gf ,the plums of ,monsieur are thus named because ,monsieur1 the brother of ,louis ,,xiv41 was very fond of them4,,xii-#gg ,the plums of ,reine ,claude owe their name to the first consort of ,francis ,i41 daughter of ,louis ,,xii4,,xii-#gh ,the plums of ,mirabelle were brought from ,provence into ,lorraine by ,king ,ren4,,xii-#gi ,,xiii4 ,,pip ,,fruit4 ,,quince ,,tree4 ,this tree appears to have been a native of ,cydon1 a city of ,crete2 from hence it passed into ,greece1,,xiii-#a and soon became the delight of its voluptuous inhabitants4 ,the environs of ,corinth1 above all1 were noted for the sweetness and beauty of their quinces1,,xiii-#b which the enlightened luxury of ,attica preferred to all others4 ,rome did not fail to enrich itself with a fruit,,xiii-#c to which the ingenuity of culinary art was to give a new flavour4 ,young plants were first imported from abroad1 and put in boxes2,,xiii-#d but the ,romans knew not how to rear them1 and were obliged for a long time to content themselves with excellent quinces preserved in honey1 and sent from ,iberia and ,syria to the great capital4,,xiii-#e ,at last they learned how to cultivate the quince tree1,,xiii-#f and subsequently introduced it into ,gaul1 where it succeeded admirably4 ,they1 too1 could then enjoy1 with a certain pride1 preserves nothing inferior to those of ,spain1,,xiii-#g and which the confectioners in the 8market of dainties10,,xiii-#h kept in reserve with quince wine,,xiii-#i for the tables of the patricians2 and also the stomachic exhilarating liqueur extracted from the fruit of sweet ,cydoneum1,,xiii-#aj which even a petite matresse would not have disdained at a light morning repast4 ,at any rate1 the faculty this time agreed with culinary chemistry in recommending to epicures those delicious preparations4 ,it was asserted1 besides1 that the quince possessed the most beneficial qualities1,,xiii-#aa first1 as an aliment1 and next1 as a counter-poison3,,xiii-#ab gourmandise made the mind docile1 and none doubted its marvellous virtues4 ,this fruit1 so much extolled1 was preserved by placing it with its branches and leaves in a vessel1 afterwards filled with honey or sweet wine1 which was reduced to half the quantity by ebullition4,,xiii-#ac ,,pear ,,tree4 ,many countries have disputed the honour of having given birth to the pear tree4 ,according to some it was a native of ,mount ,ida1 so renowned for its refreshing fountains2 others said ,alexandria2 and in the opinion of some writers it came from different parts of ,greece4 ,let us add to this enumeration ,palestine1 where this tree grew at a very remote period4,,xiii-#ad ,it results from these different allegations that the ancients were acquainted with the pear tree2 that they cultivated and were fond of pears1 which is not at all surprising1 as they are an excellent fruit4 ,theophrastus was very fond of them2 he speaks of them very often1,,xiii-#ae and always with praise4 ,the same thing may be affirmed of ,pliny1,,xiii-#af and more particularly of ,galen1 whose medical authority was formerly of so much weight4 ,the learned physician of ,pergamo is pleased to recognise in the pear strengthening qualities which benefit the stomach1 and an astringent virtue which the apple does not possess in the same degree4,,xiii-#ag ,like us1 the ,greeks and ,romans distinguished several kinds of this fruit1 whose names indicated their taste and forms4 ,it is not certain whether they possessed the ,bon ,chrtien1 which honours our tables in winter1 either raw or cooked4 ,this name reminds us of its origin1 which we will relate4 ,louis ,,xi41 ,king of ,france1 had sent for ,saint ,franois de ,paule from the lower part of ,calabria1 in the hopes of recovering his health through his intercession4 ,the saint brought with him the seeds of this pear1 and as he was called at court ,le ,bon ,chrtien1 this fruit received the name of him to whom ,france owed its introduction4,,xiii-#ah ,,apple ,,tree4 ,a very ancient tradition--for it is six thousand years old--represents the apple as being1 from the beginning of the world1 the inauspicious fruit to which may be traced all the miseries of mankind4 ,we crave permission to defend it from this accusation1 merely by these few words1 8,that it is nowhere written40 ,the holy books rarely speak of the apple tree4 ,if we are not mistaken1 it is only mentioned in five passages,,xiii-#ai of the sacred writings1 and at periods very distant from the first offence of man4 ,therefore1 nothing indicates aversion or contempt on the part of the inspired writers for this tree1 which on one occasion serves even as a graceful term of comparison2,,xiii-#bj from which it might be concluded that the inhabitants of the east thought as much of it as other nations4 ,there is one 7and perhaps only one7 example of a singular and excessive repugnance to apples4 ,it is said that ,uladislas1 ,king of ,poland1 no sooner perceived them than he became so confused and terrified that he immediately fled4 ,it certainly required very little to disturb this poor prince6 ,greece produced very beautiful apple trees1 and their fruit was so excellent1 that it was the favourite dessert of ,philip of ,macedon1 and of his son1 ,alexander the ,great1 who caused them to be served at all their meals4,,xiii-#ba ,probably they were obtained purposely for them from the island of ,euba1 which enjoyed an extraordinary reputation for apples4,,xiii-#bb ,the ,athenian legislator--the wise ,solon--almost succeeded in throwing discredit on this aliment1 so much liked by his fellow-citizens1 by a sumptuary law which he thought it necessary to establish4 ,the inhabitants of ,attica were fond of good living2 and when one of them took a wife he spared no expense to give splendour to the nuptial banquet--a very excusable pride on such an occasion4 ,solon was in the habit of interfering rather too much in the affairs of others4 ,every one has his failing1 and this was his3 he imagined that his fellow citizens fared too sumptuously on their wedding-day2 and1 in order to curtail an expense contrary to his ideas of economy1 he ordered that the bridegroom should be content with a single apple1 while his guests were regaling themselves at his expense4 ,who would believe it8 ,this law was religiously observed by the ,greeks1 and the ,persians thought it so original that they1 in their turn1 adopted it4,,xiii-#bc ,the ,latins gave a favourable reception to the apple tree1 and cultivated it with care4 ,eminent citizens of ,rome did not disdain to give their names and patronage to different kinds procured by themselves1 or which they had improved in their orchards4 ,the ,manlian apples were so called after ,manlius2 the ,claudian after ,claudius1 their patron2 the ,appian owed their name to ,appius4 ,some others preserved that of their native country3 such were the ,sidonians1 the ,greeks1 and the ,epirotes4 ,after the conquest of ,gaul1 the ,romans introduced all these fruits2,,xiii-#bd and as the climate was more favourable to apple trees than that of ,italy1 they soon multiplied to a surprising extent4 ,france ought to be grateful to those proud warriors for a present that enriched that province of the empire1 and which perhaps still contributes to its prosperity4 ,,lemon ,,tree4 ,among the richest productions of ,media1 ,virgil mentions a tree1 to whose fruit he attributes the greatest virtues against all poisons4 ,the description he gives of it seems to belong to the lemon tree4,,xiii-#be ,however this may be1 its origin1 and even its identity1 have given rise to the most animated disputations4 ,many have asserted that ,juba1 ,king of ,mauritania 7#ej years ,b4,c471 spoke of the lemon tree1 and that he looked upon it as being very ancient4 ,they add1 that the ,lybians gave to its fruit the name of 8,hesperide apples10 that ,hercules stole1 and which1 on account of their colour1 were called 8golden apples0 by the ,greeks1 who were indebted to that hero for their introduction4,,xiii-#bf ,others maintain that no one has spoken of them before ,theophrastus1,,xiii-#bg who called them 8,median apples10 after the place of their origin2 and that consequently those persons were wrong who confounded them with the apples taken from the garden of the ,hesperides4,,xiii-#bh ,these difficulties will probably disappear1 if we remember that the ancients have given to the lemon tree various names,,xiii-#bi which belong to other trees4 ,the truth is1 that the ,athenians received it from the ,persians1 who were neighbours of the ,medes1 and from ,attica it spread all over ,greece4,,xiii-#cj ,lemons were only known to the ,romans at a very late period1 and at first were used only to keep the moths from their garments4 ,the acidity of this fruit was unpleasant to them1 and ,apicius makes no use of it3 those who wish to satisfy their curiosity on the subject may read the remarks of ,lister1 the celebrated physician of ,queen ,anne1 and editor of the works of this famous gourmet4,,xiii-#ca ,in the time of ,pliny1 the lemon was hardly known otherwise than as an excellent counter-poison4,,xiii-#cb ,fifty years after that1 ,palladius reared the plants which he had received from ,media1,,xiii-#cc and at last this tree was slowly naturalized in the south of ,europe4 ,a considerable number of anecdotes have been told of the anti-venomous properties of the lemon4 ,athenus speaks of two men who did not feel pain from the bite of dangerous serpents1 because they had previously eaten of this fruit4,,xiii-#cd ,either this story is false1 or men and things have strangely altered4 ,apicius preserves lemons by putting each of them into a separate vessel1 which is hermetically sealed with plaster1 and afterwards suspended from the ceiling4,,xiii-#ce ,in another place we shall speak of the tables and beds made of the lemon tree1 so fashionable amongst the ,romans1 and for which they spent prodigious sums4 ,one thing remains to be noticed2 and that is1 that preserved lemon peel was considered as one of the best digestives1 and that doctors recommend it to weak and delicate persons4,,xiii-#cf ,,orange ,,tree4 ,if confidence is to be placed in some authors1 the native land of the orange tree would appear to be the gardens of the ,hesperides1 so remarkable in mythologic ages1 and it was found also in ,western ,africa1 ,mauritania1 and the ,fortunate ,islands2 to which they add those mountains of ,atlas so little known in a botanical point of view1 notwithstanding the daring excursions of several learned men4 ,according to other observers1 it originally came from the southern countries of ,china1,,xiii-#cg from the islands of the ,indian ,archipelago1 or even from that portion of the globe called ,oceania4 ,one incontestable fact is1 that writers of antiquity were completely ignorant of the existence of this superb tree4 ,had they known it1 its majestic height1 the dark green of its foliage1 the suavity of its flowers1 its fruit1 so fine1 bright1 and so flattering to the taste1 could not have failed to inspire them with brilliant pages4 ,theophrastus1 and the ,latin geoponics1 never would have neglected to speak of the luxury and fecundity it displays1 even in the season of hoary frost4 ,besides1 the name of ,portughan1 which is given to the orange by the ,arabs--a name foreign to their language1 but which is again heard among the ,italians1 ,spaniards1 and even in the southern provinces of ,france--is it not an indication that the introduction of this tree has some connection with the ,portuguese voyages to ,india1 particularly those of ,juan de ,castro in the year #aebj8 ,it is the ,portuguese who have planted the orange tree in the ,canaries1 at ,madeira1 where it was supposed to be indigenous on account of the vigorous vegetation it there displays3 it is the ,portuguese who have introduced this tree into all countries washed by the ,mediterranean3 and it is still the ,portuguese who have furnished the parent suckers1 whence the ,spaniards have been enabled to form their immense groves in ,andalusia and ,algarvia4,,xiii-#ch ,from the foregoing recital we may conclude that the grand poliphagic triumvirate of antiquity--,archestratus1 ,vitellius1 and ,apicius--never tasted this fruit1 which ,heaven reserved for the appreciation of modern times4 ,blessed shades6 if1 attracted sometimes by the exquisite vapours of our stoves1 you should wander again round those succulent dishes which a more experienced chemistry enables us to elaborate3 if fruitless gastronomic reminiscences should lead you into the delightful retreat of some one of your disciples1 who by his enlightened skill is there preparing the treasures of the dessert3 oh6 turn away your eyes from those enticing fruits which display their golden rays1 and rise in pyramids upon a porcelain pedestal4 ,here are oranges1 the nectar and ambrosia of the ,olympian ages1 which you doubtless regret1 and we have again discovered4 ,these wonders of sweetness existed perhaps in ,china1 but you knew it not1 for ,china did not become a ,roman province4 ,but console yourselves1 giants of cookery6 we have not yet attained the high pinnacle of your art2 your wild boar la ,troyenne1 your peacocks' brains1 and your phenicopters' tongues1 secure for you a triumph which posterity will dispute in vain6 ,the orange known under the name of 8,portugal orange0 comes from ,china4 ,not more than two centuries ago the ,portuguese brought thence the first scion1 which has multiplied so prodigiously that we now see entire forests of orange trees in ,portugal4,,xiii-#ci ,it appears to have been the custom formerly1 in ,england1 to make new-year's presents of oranges stuck full with cloves4 ,we read in one of ,ben ,jonson's pieces1 the 8,christmas ,masque10 8,he has an orange and rosemary1 but not a clove to stick in it40,,xiii-#dj ,at the present day we can dispense with this embellishment4 ,the first orange tree cultivated in the centre of ,france was to be seen a few years ago at ,fontainebleau4 ,it was called ,le ,conntable 7the ,constable71 because it had belonged to the ,conntable de ,bourbon1 and had been confiscated1 together with all property belonging to that prince1 after his revolt against his sovereign4,,xiii-#da ,,fig ,,tree4 ,antiquity1 sacred and profane1 has not left us1 on any other tree1 facts so clear and certain as upon the fig tree2 it is the only tree of ,eden of which the sacred books have preserved to us any mention4,,xiii-#db ,in the ,east there were immense plantations of it2 ,egypt had some also2,,xiii-#dc and the land of ,canaan produced figs1 which enabled ,moses to judge of its fertility4,,xiii-#dd ,the ,scriptures1 in order to give us an idea of the happiness and tranquillity the ,jews enjoyed under the reign of ,solomon1 tell us that1 8in ,judea and in ,israel all dwelt safely1 every man under his vine and under his fig tree40,,xiii-#de ,and the fruit of this tree was no doubt very dear to the ,hebrews1 since ,rubshakeh1 the general of the ,assyrian army1 thought to seduce them from their obedience to ,hezekiah1 ,king of ,judea1 by saying to them3 8,come out to me1 and then eat ye every man of his own vine1 and every one of his fig tree40,,xiii-#df ,thus the trade carried on with figs in ,jerusalem had become so considerable and active1 that ,esdras was obliged to interdict it on the ,sabbath day4 ,it appears that figs were arranged in small masses1 to which they give the form of loaves or cakes1 either round or square1 which were sold nearly in the same way as at the present day4,,xiii-#dg ,from the ,east the fig tree passed into ,greece1 then into ,italy1 ,gaul1 ,spain1 and throughout ,europe4 ,the ,athenians pretended that this tree was a native of their soil1 and this people never wanted mythologic facts to support their assertions2 they imagined1 and would have others believe1 that the grateful ,ceres rewarded the ,athenian1 ,phytalus1 for his hospitality by giving him a fig tree1 which served for all the plantations of ,attica4,,xiii-#dh ,whatever may be the way it came to them1 they received it with transports of joy2 it was planted with great pomp in the centre of the public square at ,athens3 from that time this spot was sacred to them4,,xiii-#di ,ere long the fame of the figs of ,attica spread far and wide3 they were the best in ,greece2 and the magistrates strictly prohibited their exportation4,,xiii-#ej ,this law was afterwards modified1 that is1 the exportation of figs was allowed on payment of a very heavy duty4 ,they then appointed inspectors1 whose duty it was to discover contraventions1 and report them3 thence arose the name of ,sycophant1,,xiii-#ea taken by those informers--a vile and dispised set of men1 whose denunciations were often false1 and with whom the infamous authors of a base calumny were eventually assimilated4,,xiii-#eb ,in ,greece every one feasted on figs3 it was a sort of regular gastronomic furore1 which knew no bounds1 and the wise ,plato himself ceased to be a philosopher when presented with a basket of that fruit4 ,as an aliment it was considered so wholesome and strengthening1 that on the first introduction of them they constituted the food of the athlet1 whose patron1 ,hercules1 had also fed on them in his youth4 ,the superiority of the ,greek figs was so generally acknowledged that the kings of ,persia even had a predilection for them3 dried ones were served on the tables of these ostentatious princes4,,xiii-#ec ,the ,romans believed1 according to an antique tradition1 that their first princes1 ,romulus and ,remus1 were found under a fig tree on the shore of the ,tiber2 they therefore rendered signal honours to this tree when it was brought into ,italy3 they planted it in the ,forum2 and it was under its shade that a sacrifice was offered every year to the shepherdess who had suckled their founder4,,xiii-#ed ,it may1 nevertheless1 be affirmed1 that no one before ,cato had noticed the fig tree1,,xiii-#ee which probably appeared in ,rome at the same period as the peach1 apricot1 and other trees of ,asia4 ,sixty years afterwards ,varro speaks of it as a novelty from beyond sea1 and points out to us that its various species have retained the names of the countries whence they came4,,xiii-#ef ,those varieties were so numerous1 that ,pliny counts no less than twenty-nine of them1,,xiii-#eg and the designation of the greater part recalled to mind the illustrious families who had taken them under their patronage4 ,the people of the north1 especially the moderns1 cannot well explain the extraordinary infatuation of the ancient southern nations for the fruit of the fig tree4 ,perhaps we ought to look for the reason in the nourishing1 fresh1 and sweet qualities of its pulp1 and in the numerous plantations of those trees1 which sometimes furnished an agreeable food to entire armies1 when other provisions failed4,,xiii-#eh ,that of ,philip of ,macedon owed its preservation to the figs brought to it by the ,magnesians4,,xiii-#ei ,a long time before1 ,david received with joy1 from the hands of ,abigail1 two hundred baskets of dried figs1 for himself and his exhausted men4,,xiii-#fj ,more than once the far-famed reputation of some beautiful plantations of fig trees brought long and disastrous wars on an entire country1 as steel attracts lightning4 ,xerxes left ,persia1 and rushed on ,attica1 to take possession of those delicious figs1 whose renown only had crossed his territory3,,xiii-#fa and it was partly to eat the figs of ,rome that the ,gauls waged war against ,italy3,,xiii-#fb thank ,heaven we have now more respect for our neighbours' fig trees4 ,the best things in the world have had their detractors1 and the fig is not an exception4 ,philotimus and ,diphilus looked upon it as bad food2,,xiii-#fc ,galen was unwell after partaking of figs1 and he recommends us to mix almonds with them2,,xiii-#fd ,hippocrates himself thought them indigestible1 and advised to drink plentifully after eating them4,,xiii-#fe ,all these great men may have been right1 but the ,greeks1 their contemporaries1 acted as if they were wrong3 happily we are not called upon to decide between them4 ,figs were commonly served on aristocratic tables with salt1 pepper1 vinegar1 and some aromatics2 they were eaten fresh1 or dried in the oven1 or on hurdles in the sun4 ,,raspberry ,,tree4 ,the ancients hardly mention the raspberry tree1 which they placed on a level with the bramble4 ,the ,latins called it 8,bramble of ,ida10 because it was common on that mountain4,,xiii-#ff ,there can be no doubt1 however1 that the ,romans knew how to appreciate the raspberry tree1 so much esteemed in our days4 ,,currant ,,tree4 ,the moderns have attempted to ennoble our two kinds of currants by decorating them with ,latin names1 which recall their antiquity4,,xiii-#fg ,vain effort6 ,to all appearance the ,greeks and people of ,italy were not acquainted with the currant tree1,,xiii-#fh although they well deserved to possess this delicious fruit4 ,,strawberry ,,plant4 ,among the ,greeks the name of the strawberry indicated its tenuity1 this fruit forming hardly a mouthful4 ,with the ,latins the name reminded one of the delicious perfume of this plant4 ,both nations were equally fond of it1 and applied the same care to its cultivation4 ,virgil appears to place it in the same rank with flowers1,,xiii-#fi and ,ovid gives it a tender epithet1,,xiii-#gj which delicate palates would not disavow4 ,neither does this luxurious poet forget the wild strawberry1,,xiii-#ga which disappears beneath its modest foliage1 but whose presence the scented air reveals4 ,transported to the tables of the ,luculli1 by the side of its more brilliant and more beautiful sister1 a flattering murmur often bore testimony to its merit1 and nature triumphed in the midst of ingenious guests1 soliciting of art what they repudiated in nature4 ,,mulberry ,,tree4 ,the ancient mulberry tree was considered the wisest and most prudent of trees1 because it took care1 they said1 not to let the smallest of its buds come to light before the cold had entirely disappeared1 not to return4 ,then1 however1 it hastened to repair lost time1 and a single night was sufficient to see it display its beautiful flowers1 which the next morning brightly opened at the rising of ,aurora4,,xiii-#gb ,the voluptuous ,romans1 reposing late on their soft couches the day after the fatigues of a banquet worthy of ,vitellius1 did not trouble themselves much about this interesting phenomenon1 which occurred1 if ,pliny does not mistake1 in the gardens of their villas4 ,but they knew that mulberries agree with the stomach1 that they afford hardly any nourishment1 and easily digest3,,xiii-#gc therefore1 no sooner had they opened their heavy eyelids than an ,egyptian boy--attentive living bell--at a sign disappeared1 and quickly returned1 bearing a small crystal vase1 filled with mulberry juice and wine reduced by boiling4 ,this beneficent fruit preserved in this mixture all its sweet flavour1,,xiii-#gd and enabled the rich patrician to await until evening the hour for new excesses4 ,it is quite evident that this luscious fruit was a native of ,canaan1 for the high road by which the tribes of ,israel went up to the feasts at ,jerusalem lay through the valley of ,baka1 or ,mulberry ,tree2,,xiii-#ge and the whole tract of country from ,ekron to ,gaza abounded in these trees4 ,,xiv4 ,,shell ,,fruit4 ,,almond ,,tree4 ,this tree1 whose fruit was called at one time 8,greek ,nut10 and1 at another1 8,thasian ,nut10,,xiv-#a is a native of ,paphlagonia1 according to ,hermippus4,,xiv-#b ,the nations of the east thought much of almonds1 and ,jacob found them worthy of appearing among the presents he designed for ,joseph4,,xiv-#c ,the almond tree of ,naxos supplied the markets of ,athens4,,xiv-#d ,the ,romans1 in their turn1 sought them1 and believed1 like the physician spoken of by ,plutarch1 that it was only necessary to eat five or six almonds to acquire the ability of drinking astonishingly4,,xiv-#e ,besides1 this fruit had not always so mean a destination3 the disciples of ,apicius made of it one of the most delicate of dishes4 ,here it is1 as taught to them by their master3-- ,take almonds that have been pounded in a mortar1 and mix them with honey1 pepper1 garum1 milk1 eggs1 and a little oil2 submit the whole to the action of a slow fire4,,xiv-#f ,the ancients were acquainted with the oil of almonds1,,xiv-#g of which they made nearly the same use as we do ourselves2 but they possessed1 in addition1 an infallible means of augmenting the fertility of the almond tree4 ,it was very simple3--,a hole was made in the tree1 a stone was introduced into it1,,xiv-#h and1 thanks to the virtue of this new manure1 the branches soon bent under the weight of almonds4 ,the good almonds come from ,barbary and the south of ,france4 ,when young1 they are preserved like green apricots4 ,they are eaten at table1 fresh or dry2 in comfits1 pastry1 c43 they are also used to make orgeat and refreshing emulsions4 ,the oil extracted from almonds1 even bitter ones1 is very sweet2 it is best extracted cold1 by pressure4 ,the pulp is employed1 under the name of almond paste1 for several purposes1 one of which is to render the skin soft and flexible4,,xiv-#i ,,walnut ,,tree4 ,asia1 the cradle of most fruit trees1 gave birth also to the walnut tree4 ,it is believed to be a native of ,persia1,,xiv-#aj and its pleasing foliage already adorned1 in ,biblical times1 the orchards of the east4 ,one of the most ancient of the sacred books informs us that it was known to the ,jews1,,xiv-#aa and it may be inferred from a passage in the ,song of ,solomon that they possessed numerous plantations of this tree4,,xiv-#ab ,among the ,persians1 walnuts were not lavished on the first comer1 as with us2 the sovereign reserved them for his dessert1 and the people were obliged to abstain from them4 ,but perhaps it may be said that1 however fond this prince may have been of walnuts1 he could not eat all that were produced in his states4 ,the objection is embarrassing1 we own1 and chroniclers are silent on this point4 ,but let us suppose that this generous potentate distributed to his favourites the walnuts from which his satiated appetite was compelled to abstain2 and1 indeed1 we find that a king of ,persia sent some to the ,greeks1 who called them 8,royal ,persian nuts10,,xiv-#ac in gratitude and remembrance of the august gift4 ,they did still better2 the king of ,olympus had a great liking for this fruit1 so they hastened to consecrate it to him1,,xiv-#ad and the 8nuts of ,jupiter0 were cultivated with honour in the whole of ,greece4,,xiv-#ae ,italy received the walnut tree from ,attica1 and1 by degrees1 the conquerors of the world introduced it to the different countries of ,europe4 ,the ,romans1 imitators of the piety of the ,greeks1 placed this tree also under the protection of the most powerful of their gods4 ,one of their most whimsical customs1 perhaps1 owed its origin to this consecration1 which will serve to explain it3-- ,after the wedding feast the bridegroom strewed in the nuptial chamber1 at night1 several baskets of walnuts1 which children hastened to pick up4,,xiv-#af ,this was1 they said1 a kind of offering to ,jupiter1 and thus he was entreated to grant his supreme patronage to the husband1 and to adorn the wife with the virtues of ,juno4,,xiv-#ag ,the god could not have failed to smile at this part of the request of blind mortals1 and it is asserted that1 at times1 he condescended not to grant it4 ,others have given a different interpretation4 ,according to them1 the walnut1 being covered with a double envelope when fresh1 became a presage of abundance and prosperity4,,xiv-#ah ,it would be too tedious to relate all the singular opinions to which this ceremony gave rise4 ,the most reasonable appears to be that adopted by certain commentators3--,walnuts1 say they1 served as playthings for children1 and1 by throwing them on the ground the day of his wedding1 the bridegroom made it understood that he and his companion renounced the frivolities of youth1 henceforth to devote themselves to the serious exigencies of a family4,,xiv-#ai ,this fruit was considered astringent1,,xiv-#bj stomachic1 and proper to facilitate digestion4,,xiv-#ba ,it was made into preserve1 and eaten in small quantity1 mixed with figs4 ,in this manner paralysis of the tongue was avoided--an effect to which it was believed those who partook of them to excess were exposed4,,xiv-#bb ,green walnuts were much esteemed2 they were served at dessert1,,xiv-#bc notwithstanding the opinion of ,heraclides1 of ,tarentum1 who looked upon them as a stimulant to the appetite1 and advised a trial of them at the beginning of a repast4,,xiv-#bd ,when ,pompey had made himself master of the palace of ,mithridates1 he had search made everywhere for the recipe of the famous antidote against poison used by that king4 ,at length it was found2 it was very simple3 however1 we offer it to the curious3-- ,pound1 with care1 two walnuts1 two dried figs1 twenty leaves of rue1 and a grain of salt4,,xiv-#be ,swallow this mixture--precipitate it by the assistance of a little wine1 and you have nothing to fear from the most active poison for the space of twenty-four hours4 ,,nut ,,tree4 ,the ,greeks gave hazel nuts the name of 8,pontic ,nuts10 and ,theophrastus calls them 8,nuts of ,heraclea10 because the territory of that capital of the kingdom of ,pontus produced the best4,,xiv-#bf ,the ,latins1 at first1 retained the same designation for this fruit1 but afterwards1 the environs of ,prneste and ,avellinum supplying them with a great quantity of excellent nuts1 they gave them the name of those two cities4,,xiv-#bg ,they employed also a diminitive,,xiv-#bh to indicate those which came from the first of these localities4 ,the ,french ,aveline 7filbert71 and ,noisette 7hazel nuts71 are evidently borrowed from the ,roman vocabulary4 ,the inhabitants of ,prneste raised the nut tree to a sort of religious worship4 ,this tree had preserved them from famine during the time ,hannibal besieged their city1,,xiv-#bi and since that memorable epoch it had enriched them1 for the ancients preferred hazel nuts to all other shell fruit1 as possessing most wholesome and nourishing qualities4,,xiv-#cj ,it was the custom in ,france1 some centuries ago1 at the time of the summer solstice 7,midsummer eve71 to take all the kitchen utensils and make the most frightful clatter by knocking them one against another4 ,the simpletons of those times imagined that there were no better means of preventing the rain1 which1 in their opinion1 was detrimental to filberts and hazel nuts4,,xiv-#ca ,hospinian1 who relates this ridiculous custom1 does not tell us what results they obtained by all their racket4 ,,pistachio ,,tree4 ,this tree1 esteemed by the ,romans1,,xiv-#cb is a native of ,india4,,xiv-#cc ,lucius ,vitellius brought some plants of it from ,syria to ,rome1 under the reign of ,tiberius2 a little time subsequently1 a knight1 named ,flaccus ,pompeius1 introduced it also into ,spain4,,xiv-#cd ,galen doubted whether pistachio nuts were good for the stomach4,,xiv-#ce ,avicenna proved the contrary2,,xiv-#cf and several centuries before the ,arabian physician1 ,roman epicures had courageously demonstrated that this fruit never does harm in whatever form it may be presented1 whether raw or roasted1 alone or accompanied with garum and salt4 ,,chesnut ,,tree4 ,according to some writers the chesnut tree owes its name to the city of ,castana1 in ,thessaly1 where they maintained it originated4 ,on the contrary1 it comes from ,sardis1 in ,lydia1 if we are to believe the physician1 ,diphilus1 who calls chesnuts1 acorns of ,sardis1 and says they are nourishing1 but indigestible4,,xiv-#cg ,amaryllis was fond of this fruit2,,xiv-#ch but ,amaryllis was only a shepherdess1 and her beauty did not prevent her from having rather rustic tastes4 ,the ,roman ladies abandoned the chesnut to that low class of citizens whose palates1 incapable of improvement1 remain always stationary in the midst of the incessant progress of cookery2 sad example of invincible frugality1 which the most exciting fumets fail to arouse4 ,nevertheless1 there was a soft and tender species of chesnut1 ,castane molles1,,xiv-#ci which were allowed on some of the tables of the higher class of citizens1 and recommended themselves by their delicate pulp to the attention of the guests2,,xiv-#dj perhaps oil of chesnuts was obtained from this particular kind4,,xiv-#da ,to render the chesnuts more agreeable and wholesome they must be pealed of their skins1 which is very tough2 put into boiling water1 it penetrates and softens the bitter pellicle 7the tan7 covering them1 and facilitates its removal from the floury substance4 ,when the chesnuts can be easily stripped of this pellicle by the pressure of the fingers1 take the jar from the fire2 shake them well on all sides4 ,the tan will soon detach itself from their surface1 and be altogether removed2 then take them out1 and after they have been shaken in a sieve made purposely1 they are washed in cold water1 to take away1 with what remains of the tan1 the bitter water they may have preserved2 they are then cooked without water1 in a well-covered vessel1 and upon a moderate fire4 8,to eat chesnuts green all the year1 boil them in water for fifteen or twenty minutes2 put them afterwards in a common oven1 one hour after the bread has been taken out4 ,by this double operation the chesnuts acquire a degree of cooking and desiccation1 by which they can be preserved a very long time1 provided they are kept in a dry place4 ,they can be used afterwards by putting them to warm in a bain-marie40--,,dutour4 ,,pomegranate4 ,ceres1 disconsolate on account of the loss of her daughter1 to whom ,pluto destined the sceptre of ,hell1 implored the ruler of ,olympus to restore ,proserpine4 ,jupiter promised that the favour should be granted1 provided that she had not partaken of anything in the infernal regions4 ,now1 she had eaten some grains of a pomegranate2 very few indeed2 some serious authors have said three2 others1 quite as respectable1 say nine4 ,the fact is1 however1 ,proserpine had broken her fast2 therefore she might think herself fortunate in being allowed to pass six months on earth and six months in the abode of darkness4,,xiv-#db ,this little mythologic story informs us that the pomegranate tree was known to antiquity1 and that the garden of the ,elysian fields contained most excellent fruit for the use of its melancholy inhabitants4 ,the pomegranate1 whose acidulated flavour is so pleasing to the inhabitants of hot climates1 was first cultivated in the east1 then in ,africa1 but especially in the environs of ,carthage1 from whence the ,romans brought it into ,italy1 where it was commonly called the ,carthaginian apple2,,xiv-#dc it was also named ,granatum1 on account of the number of its seeds4,,xiv-#dd ,pliny distinguishes five different species of promegranate2,,xiv-#de ,columella teaches the way to rear this tree2,,xiv-#df and ,apicius treats of the preservation of its fruit1 to do which it is only necessary to plunge it in boiling water1 take it out immediately1 and suspend it from the ceiling4,,xiv-#dg ,the ,greeks were very fond of pomegranates4 ,the finest came from ,attica1 so celebrated by the genius of its inhabitants2 and from ,botia1,,xiv-#dh that privileged soil1 where agriculture and stupidity flourished together4,,xiv-#di ,,xv4 ,,animal ,,food4 ,bread1 vegetables1 and fruit for a long time provided man with a sufficient and easy alimentation4,,xv-#a ,wandering with his flocks in search of cool pasture1 he only exacted their wool wherewith to make the clothing requisite for his migratory life2,,xv-#b their services to assist him in hollowing a difficult furrow2,,xv-#c and their first-born as a most agreeable offering to the all-powerful master of heaven and earth4,,xv-#d ,we may also suppose that1 in the pastoral ages1 the wandering tribes of ,asia added to their vegetable food the milk of their ewes1 goats1 or cows1 although it is not mentioned in the ,book of ,genesis,,xv-#e at a very early period1 it is true1 but which forms a nourishment nature seems to point out as proper to infancy and old age2,,xv-#f mankind1 therefore1 abstained from animal food during many centuries4,,xv-#g ,ecclesiastical and profane writers seem to agree on this point4,,xv-#h ,habit had not yet produced disgust1 and curiosity1 the fatal mother of experience and sensuality4 ,to eat was for them the most natural and simple action of life4 ,the art of cookery tries1 makes choice1 and improves3 that art did not exist4 ,the frightful cataclysm which overthrew the world1 and of which the history of every nation gives proofs more or less confused1 came to modify this state of things4 8,men were obliged to be fed with more substantial food10,,xv-#i and our forefathers were allowed to add to vegetables and the herbs of the country1 8animated beings1 and all that which had life and motion40,,xv-#aj ,the magiric science1 therefore1 began in the year of the world #afef4 ,from that period1 indeed1 the cooking of meat1 however little complicated it may have been1 required an attention1 care1 and study1 which prepared the development of that marvellous faculty to which no possible limit can be assigned--the last to disappear1 and to which1 in fact1 are related nearly all the actions of human life--the sense of taste4 ,heathen authors1 guided by the lights of reason1 some gleams of tradition1 and perhaps not absolutely strangers to the writings of ,moses1 agree pretty well on the diet of the ,golden ,age2,,xv-#aa that age of innocence1 acorns1 and happiness1,,xv-#ab when everywhere were seen streams of milk1 and nectar1 and honey1 flowing from the hollow oaks and other trees of the forests4,,xv-#ac ,but when the question is to point out the time at which the use of animal food was introduced1 ideas become clouded1 and highly intelligent minds1 bewildered by the obscurity which envelops the subject1 have frequently appealed to absurd legends and ridiculous fables1 invoking the aid of their false and contested authority4 ,xenocrates pretends that ,triptolemus forbad the ,athenians to eat animals4,,xv-#ad ,man must1 then1 have been still frugivorous for four centuries after the ,deluge4 ,this opinion found contradictors1 who maintained that man contented himself with fruit only because fire was wanting to cook meat2 but ,prometheus came1 and taught him how to draw the useful element from the flint which concealed it1 and was the first to venture on the sacrifice of an ox4,,xv-#ae ,this happened in the year of the world #bdab4,,xv-#af ,all this is a mistake1 say other and very sensible writers2 here is the truth on this difficult point3 ,the goddess ,ceres had sown a field1 and the wheat came up as desired1 when a pig entered1 tumbled about1 and caused considerable damage1 which so irritated the lady that she punished him with death4 ,now1 as a pig is good for nothing except to eat1 this one was eaten2 and from that day1 so fatal to the swinish race1 mankind learnt to appreciate the flesh of animals4,,xv-#ag ,at the same time1 ,bacchus killed a goat he found nibbling at the tendrils of his darling vines2,,xv-#ah and ,hyberbius1 son of ,mars1 and a slasher1 like his father1 amused himself by killing another1 in order to become familiar thus early with scenes of combat4,,xv-#ai ,these goats were roasted2 and as experience had as yet furnished no rule of comparison1 and formed no taste--that exquisite sentiment of the beautiful in the plastic arts1 and of the good in the culinary science--it was decided that this dish was very tolerable4 ,hitherto the bovine race had only lost one individual3 its sad destiny began in the year #aejf1 before our era1 under the reign of the fourth king of ,athens1 ,erichtonius1 on a day of great solemnity1 when an ox1 pressed probably by hunger1 came near the altar1 and devoured one of the sacred cakes which heathen piety had dedicated to ,jupiter4 ,the zealous ,diomus rushed forward1 and pierced the heart of the sacrilegious quadruped4 ,it might be supposed that the anger of the god was immediately appeased2 but no6 the terrible ,jupiter knitted his brows2 ,olympus was in great agitation2 and pestilence came1 and spread its ravages amongst the ,athenians4 8,all did not die1 but all were struck20,,xv-#bj and1 to propitiate the implacable scourge1 they thought of nothing better than to institute the ,buphonic ,feast1 which happily re-established their health1 and which they continued to celebrate every year4 ,they sacrificed an ox1,,xv-#ba offered a piece to ,jupiter1 and the faithful divided the rest among themselves4 ,at ,tyre1 in ,phnicia1 meat was consumed on the altar1 but the gods had the profit of it1 and nobody else4 ,some fruit and a few vegetables were sufficient for the frugality of people enjoying innocent and primitive customs4 ,but it happened1 in the time of ,pygmalion1,,xv-#bb that a young sacrificer having perceived that a piece of the victim had fallen1 hastened to pick it up and replace it carefully on the fire of the altar4 ,in the performance of this operation he burned his fingers1 and instantly put them into his mouth1 to lessen the pain4 ,as he could not help tasting the fat with which they were covered1 the greedy young man experienced a new sensation1 which tempted him to swallow a mouthful--then a second--a portion of the victim was eaten2 he put another piece under his cloak1 and1 with his wife1 made the finest supper in his life4 ,all went on very well until the prince1 being informed of this profanation1 loaded them with reproaches1 and condemned both to the punishment of death4 ,gluttony1 however1 is rash3 other sacrificers ate--at first in secret--of this forbidden food2 then they were imitated2 and1 at last1 by degrees meat passed from the altar of the gods1 who did not taste it1 to the tables of mortals1 who feasted upon it4,,xv-#bc ,people may or may not believe this anecdote1 which informs us in so satisfactory a manner of the epoch at which man1 from being frugivorous1 became carnivorous2 but one thing is certain1 that in the time of ,homer 7there is only eighty years between him and ,pygmalion71 the flesh of animals was then much in fashion1 for we read of his giving to his heroes1 as their principal food1 a whole hog1 three years old1 and oxen roasted--not even jointed4,,xv-#bd ,some ideologists and dreamers have risen against the use of meat2 their declamations1 often very eloquent1 have been read2 but1 from ,pythagoras1 a sublime and honest enthusiast1 down to the whimsical ,j4 ,j4 ,rousseau--who1 by-the-by1 was very fond of mutton chops and buf la mode1 although he exclaimed against the cruelty of mankind1 whose hands were stained with the blood of animals--no nation has yet determined to adopt the patriarchal diet of the first ages of the world4 ,plutarch was a vegetarian2 and we possess one of his treatises1 in which he endeavours to prove that flesh is not the natural food of man4,,xv-#be ,as a conclusive answer--meat was eaten4 ,so1 when an ancient philosopher one day denied the movement of matter1 a person reduced him to silence by walking4 ,but1 if animal diet has1 from time to time1 met with a small number of detractors1 what an immense crowd of apologists and adepts has it not also found6 ,it would signify nothing to name individuals2 let us point out whole nations4 ,who is not acquainted with the delicacy and luxury of the ,assyrians and ,persians8 ,who is not aware that the genius of the ,greeks improved the culinary art1 and that their cooks were famous in history8 ,what of the ,syracusans1 whose dainty and curious ideas passed as a proverb2 and of the ,athenians1 who were so passionately fond of the pleasures of the table2 or of ,naples1 ,tarentum1 and ,sybaris1 so celebrated for their good cheer8 ,the ,romans surpassed even these refinements and sumptuous repasts3 theirs is the honour of the pontiffs' feasts1 the excesses of ,capre1 the profusions of ,vitellius1 of ,galba1 ,nero1 and ,caligula4 ,they have the honour of the banquet of ,geta1 which lasted three days1 and ended by exhausting the alphabetic list of all the dishes that the universe could supply4 ,may heaven preserve us from imitating such prodigies of intemperance and gluttonous folly2 but let us1 at least1 be allowed to use with moderation the good that ,providence has granted us1 and which it has not forbidden us to make agreeable and savoury4 ,the inhabitants of the air1 earth1 and water1 entered within our domains1 as well as the fruits of the fields1 on the day when the ,creator condescended to say to his creature3 8,every moving thing that liveth shall be meat for you2 even as the green herb have ,i given you all things40,,xv-#bf ,,rearing ,,of ,,cattle4 ,all ancient legislators have bestowed the most serious attention to the rearing and preservation of cattle4 ,the ,mosaic law1 in this respect1 enters into details which reveal the most profound wisdom1 a delicate and minute research which cannot be too much admired4 ,more attentive to propagate useful animals than to flatter the sensuality of nations1 this law forbids their being mutilated2,,xv-#bg it requires the ,hebrews to treat with generosity the companions of their labour2,,xv-#bh that they shall interest themselves in the preservation of their brother's1 and even of their enemies' oxen2,,xv-#bi that different species of unequal strength shall not be yoked together to the plough2,,xv-#cj and1 in order that the cattle may not suffer from an excess of hard and constant labour1 ,moses assures to them at least one day of rest in a week4,,xv-#ca ,it is well known with what care the patriarchs surrounded their flocks2 for them they wandered from region to region1 and only stopped where pasture was abundant4,,xv-#cb ,in imitation of those fathers of nations1 the princes of the ,east1 and the ,grecian chiefs1 were at first shepherds2,,xv-#cc and were1 perhaps1 indebted to the innocent occupations of the fields for the sweet and sacred title of pastors of man4,,xv-#cd ,the founder of ,rome did not forget the flocks and herds1 in those famous laws which were to assure the prosperity of his rising city2,,xv-#ce one of them allowed the possessor of an estate to take up the acorns which might fall into his field from his neighbour's property1,,xv-#cf and to divide them among the cattle he is rearing4 ,under the republic1 it was severely forbidden to ill-use beasts of burthen and others4 ,by the ,licinian law1 each farmer was required to proportion the number of his sheep and oxen to the extent of his land2,,xv-#cg the ,thorian law contains very wise regulations relative to the quality and keeping up of pasture4,,xv-#ch ,moreover1 it is to be remarked1 that the ,romans never fixed the limits of a rural property1 nor formed a new colony1 without giving their first care to the spots appointed to feed their flocks1,,xv-#ci the quiet possession of which was assured by the ,emperors4 ,adrian1 among others1 did not encourage thieves4 ,this prince ordered that whoever carried away cattle grazing in meadows should be condemned to work in the mines2 that those who should have been convicted of robbery several times should be beheaded2 and that thieves found with arms in their hands should become the prey of wild beasts4,,xv-#dj ,illustrious families by birth often added to their name a sort of epithet1 originating either from bulls1 goats1 or sheep1 which were brought up on the land of their villas4 ,this singular custom proves the extraordinary attachment which the ,romans had for their flocks4 ,one of these enthusiasts1 ,tremellius ,scrofa1,,xv-#da had written a treatise on the art of assorting and feeding cattle4,,xv-#db ,greek and ,latin geoponics have also transmitted to us some details full of interest1 and which often contain most useful information upon the various species of animals which the ancients preferred1 and the particular care they took in the preservation and development of various breeds4,,xv-#dc ,pagan theology reckoned among its thirty thousand gods,,xv-#dd some few protective divinities of flocks4 ,the shepherds invoked ,pales,,xv-#de and ,anna ,perenna2,,xv-#df dealers of oxen offered sacrifices to ,bubona1,,xv-#dg whose special care it was to see that they were fat and healthy4 ,the animals chosen to be fattened were put under the protection of this deity1 and were fed in the following manner3 ,the first day they had given to them cabbages1 soaked in vinegar2 then1 for five days1 straw1 mixed with wheat bran2 from the seventh day they had nothing but bruised barley1 which was gradually and judiciously increased till the twelfth day4 ,these oxen were fed at midnight1 at break of day1 at twelve o'clock1 and at three in the afternoon4 ,they were allowed to drink only twice--that is1 after the third and fourth meal4,,xv-#dh ,on the thirteenth day they were led to market4 ,,markets4 ,the ,hebrews held their cattle market at the gates of their cities2 and from this circumstance1 perhaps1 is derived those expressions so frequent in the sacred writings3 8,the gates of the flocks10 8,the sheep's gate10 c41,,xv-#di which no doubt designated the different quarters of ,jerusalem where shepherds and cattle dealers were accustomed to congregate4 ,among the ,greeks1 vast1 airy1 public places1 used to receive1 under the orders1 and with the authorisation of the ,epimeletes1 or curators1 the animals and meat necessary for the subsistence of the citizens4 ,at ,rome1 the horned cattle market was situated in the eighth region1 behind the ,capitoline ,mount4,,xv-#ej ,it was a magnificent place1 surrounded with beautiful galleries1 in the midst of which stood on its pedestal1 a gigantic brazen bull1 at a little distance from the temple of ,hercules--a round1 mean edifice,,xv-#ea--where dealers and their customers went to adore this god1 the patron of butchers4 ,the way to reach the pig market was by going round the ,quirinal ,mount1 near the bronze horses of ,tyridates1 in the seventh region of the town4,,xv-#eb ,this market was the most important of all1 on account of the immense consumption of pork by the ,romans4 ,as soon as the officer of the ,roman prfect appeared1 the principal butchers gathered round him2 he examined the cattle1 regulated the sale1 and fixed a price on the meat1 from which they were not allowed to deviate1,,xv-#ec and then only was the market open4 ,,butchers4 ,nothing among the ,greeks indicates that they had butchers in the heroic ages4 ,the warriors of ,homer had no want of them1 so great was their skill in cutting up the enormous pieces placed before them4,,xv-#ed ,ulysses acquired a reputation by his dexterity in this art2 and it is more than probable that his martial companions also distinguished themselves by this kind of merit4 ,as soon as luxury had introduced into ,greece that effeminate kind of existence which only permits certain men to be engaged in the painful or repulsive details of every-day life1 bouthutes1 or bullock slaughterers1 became indispensable2 and of them the meat was bought by the pound--weighed in the scale as now4,,xv-#ee ,the ,romans had1 at first1 butchers who dealt in the same way1 and who continued to do so for a long time2 but they afterwards employed the following most extravagant method4 ,the buyer shut one of his hands2 the seller did the same2 each of them suddenly opened the whole or a few of his fingers4 ,if the fingers were even on each side1 the seller had the price he pleased2 if they were odd1 the buyer gave his own price4 ,this was called micare4,,xv-#ef ,the mication was suppressed in the year #cfj1 by a decree of ,apronianus1 which is worth quoting1 because it points out in a clear and precise manner the attributions of the ,roman butcher1 and the system of sale since followed3-- 8,reason and experience have proved to us1 that it is of public utility to suppress the practice of mication for the sale of cattle1 and that it is more advisable to sell by weight than to trust to a game with the fingers4 ,we1 therefore1 ordain that1 after the weight of the animal is ascertained1 the head1 feet1 and tallow1 shall belong to the butcher who has killed1 prepared1 and cut it up3 this shall be his wages4 ,the skin1 flesh1 and entrails1 shall belong to the master-butcher who is to retail it4 ,in this manner1 the buyer and seller will know the weight of the meat on sale1 and each will find this method to his advantage4 99 99 99 ,we will and decree that this ordinance be executed for ever1 under pain of death40,,xv-#eg ,there were at first1 in ,rome1 two corporations or colleges of butchers3 one had to take care that the city was always sufficiently supplied with oxen1 calves1 and sheep3,,xv-#eh the other was to provide that immense capital with the quantity of hogs necessary2,,xv-#ei and it would be difficult to form an idea of the number consumed by the ,romans4 ,every day a distribution was made to the people1 by ,valentinian's order1 of #bd1jhf pounds and eight ounces of pork2 to this amount1 already considerable1 must be added the truly prodigious daily sale2 for the entire population1 from the highest to the lowest1 were all passionately fond of this kind of food4,,xv-#fj ,the obligations and privileges of these two corporate bodies were nearly the same as those of the bakers4,,xv-#fa ,the children could not1 under any pretext whatsoever1 abandon the trade of their fathers1 without ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,viii4 ,,scales ,,and ,,weights4--,the ancients had several species of scales4 ,no4 #a4 ,a common scale1 with two basins1 and a movable weight1 which is made in the form of a head1 covered with the pileus1 because ,mercury had the weights and measures under his superintendence4 ,this ornamented scale is engraved on a stone in the gallery of ,florence4 ,no4 #b4 ,the ,roman scale1 beautifully made1 with one tray1 several hooks1 and the movable weight1 in the shape of a shell4 ,no4 #c4 ,common heavy weight4 ,no4 #d4 ,the ,roman weights had the form of a sphere1 partly cut above and below2 the greatest number of those which still subsist are of basalt4 ,the number of ounces1 or of pounds1 is commonly engraved on the top1 or inlaid with silver4 ,all round it are inscriptions with the name of the temple where they were preserved after they had been stamped1 together with the name of the prince1 or the prfect before whom the standard mark was made4 ,on ,no4 #d1 is 8,d4 ,n4 ,honori4 ,aug4 ,domini nostri ,honorii ,augusti20 and on ,no4 #e1 8,temp4 ,opis4 ,aug410 or the temple of ,opis ,augusta4 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #h4 incurring the entire loss of their share in the common benefit allowed by the college4 ,and1 be it remembered1 this trade was very lucrative1 so much so that those who followed it in ,rome always enjoyed a degree of opulence which sometimes caused the people to murmur4 ,they elected from among themselves a chief1 who judged their differences2 he was1 however1 subordinate to the prfect of ,rome4,,xv-#fb ,the members of the two corporations cut1 weighed1 and retailed the meat2 they had under them working butchers1 who killed1 skinned1 and trimmed the animals1 and then brought them each one to the shop of his master4,,xv-#fc ,in the sequel1 the two colleges met1 and formed one4 ,subsequently1 under the reign of ,nero1 which seemed at the beginning to promise the most brilliant prospect1 the principal market for butchers became an edifice equal in magnificence to the ,baths1 the ,circus1 and ,amphitheatres4,,xv-#fd ,eventually it was found necessary to erect two new buildings1 on account of the increasing extent of the city and its inhabitants4,,xv-#fe ,the ,roman butchers sold both fresh and salt meat1 like our own of the present day4 ,it is not necessary to enter into any explanation respecting the first2 as to the second1 their method of preparation was somewhat different from the way we manage it now3--,the animals they intended to salt were kept from drinking anything on the eve of the day they were to be killed4 ,they boned the meat1 and sprinkled it lightly with pounded salt2 then1 after having well dried off all dampness1 they again sprinkled some more salt1 and placed the pieces1 so as not to touch each other1 in vessels which had been used for oil or vinegar4 ,they poured sweet wine over1 covered the whole with straw1 and strewed snow all round1 in order to make the meat better and more tender4,,xv-#ff ,when the cook wanted to extract the salt1 he first boiled the meat well in milk1 and afterwards in soft water4,,xv-#fg ,the flesh of various animals was also well preserved without salt4 ,the only thing necessary was to cover each piece with honey1 and to place it in a vessel hermetically closed1 hung in a cool place4 ,this operation was usually performed in winter1 and succeeded equally well with meat1 either cooked or raw4,,xv-#fh ,the following are some of the statutes of the pork butchers in ,france1 during the middle ages3-- ,no one was to cook pork if it was not 8sufficient1 or had not good marrow40 ,no one could make 8sausages of anything but pork40 ,no one could sell 8black puddings1 for it is a perilous viand40,,xv-#fi ,the ,french word charcutier 7pork butcher7 is derived from caro cocta1 chair cuite 7cooked meat74 ,the numerous regulations concerning the butchers in ,france during the #adth century rendered it difficult to carry on the trade3-- ,prohibition to buy cattle except in the markets4 ,prohibition to buy pigs fed by barbers or oil dealers4 ,prohibition to kill cattle not a fortnight old4 ,prohibition to kill cattle on the eve of fast days4 ,prohibition to sell stale meat4 ,prohibition to keep meat more than two days in winter1 or more than one day and a-half in summer4 ,prohibition to sell meat by lamp light or candle light4 ,the regulations respecting the cleanliness of the slaughter houses and the shambles were very long and very severe4,,xv-#gj ,a butcher in ,paris kept but one single kind of meat1 in the #adth century4 ,pork was sold only at ,sainte-,genevive1 mutton at ,saint-,marceau1 veal at ,saint-,germain1 and beef at the market of the ,chtelet4,,xv-#ga ,philip ,augustus gave statutes to the butchers of ,paris in the year #aahb4 ,he enjoined them to observe the ,sabbath1 and permitted them to work on the other days1 with the exception of the great festivals4,,xv-#gb ,the regulations imposed upon them in the #agth century are to the effect1 that they shall not keep the fat from one week to another2 that they shall not mix the different kinds of suet2 and1 lastly1 that they shall not have more than three shops1 and shall not allow the blood to run in the streets4,,xv-#gc ,,xvi4 ,,animals4 ,,the ,,pig4 ,if intelligence1 strength1 or graceful beauty of form were to decide what rank this numerous class of animals--which has contributed its quota to the triumphs of the culinary art--should occupy on our tables1 the pig1 with its vile and stupid ugliness1 its depraved habits1 and its waddling obesity1 would be banished for ever from the farm-yard and larder in every civilised nation of the world4 ,but1 in refusing to it brilliant external qualities1 ,nature1 by a wise compensation1 has conferred on it others much more solid2 and this quadruped1 so despised during its life-time1 does not fail after its death to conciliate the constant favour of rich and poor--of the man indifferent to the attractions of good cheer1 and of the ,sybarite1 ever attentive to enlarge its domain4 ,pliny1 the naturalist1 places the pig one degree below the scale of beings4 ,apicius1 the cook1 gives it a marked preference over all meats which passed through his skilful hands4 ,from this1 it will easily be understood that the pig presents itself first in this survey of the animal diet of those nations who have transmitted to us an account of their gastrophagic exertions4 ,history shows us this animal variously appreciated by different countries4 ,certain people consecrated it1 when living1 to their divinities most in vogue2 others honoured its image--a symbol1 they thought1 of the quiet happiness of states2 a small number abhorred it1 and the greater part found it excellent eating4 ,the inhabitants of ,cyprus abstained from it1 in order to offer it to ,venus4,,xvi-#a ,the ,cretans loaded it with acorns and all the comforts of life1 because ,jupiter was first suckled by a sow in their island4,,xvi-#b ,the ,egyptian priests never allowed a ham to grace their feasts2 they fled at the sight of pigs1 unclean beings1 whose presence alone defiled them1,,xvi-#c although respected by the whole nation on account of the services they rendered in turning up the earth1 and covering the seeds thrown upon it4,,xvi-#d ,the law of ,moses forbad the ,jews to eat this quadruped1 or to touch it after its death1,,xvi-#e and more than once they exposed themselves to the most frightful torments rather than be defiled by this proscribed viand4,,xvi-#f ,tradition1 again1 strengthened their religious dread1 by interdicting the faithful from even pronouncing the name of this animal1 from looking at it1 or selling it to foreign nations4,,xvi-#g ,the fear of the frightful malady to which the pig was subject in ,palestine was1 perhaps1 the cause of this prohibition4 ,has not a ,jewish doctor observed1 that if ten measures of leprosy were to fall in the world1 this unhappy animal would take nine parts for his share4,,xvi-#h ,however1 some theologians of that nation believe that the ,messiah whom they expect will allow them the use of this now odious food4,,xvi-#i ,like the ,jews1 the ,phnicians,,xvi-#aj and ,indians,,xvi-#aa did not eat pork4 ,the followers of ,islamism also abstained from it1 in consequence of a law of the ,koran1 which ,mahomet borrowed from ,moses4,,xvi-#ab ,the ,greeks and ,romans had very different ideas4 ,they knew that their gods showed a particular predilection for those altars on which bacon or swine's flesh smoked2,,xvi-#ac they therefore offered this meat in sacrifice to the ,earth1 the ,lares1 to ,ceres2,,xvi-#ad and many a time a medal struck at ,rome perpetuated the remembrance of this solemnity1 in honour of the goddess of harvest4,,xvi-#ae ,the pig1 emblem of fecundity with these two nations1,,xvi-#af became1 on the banners of ,italy1 a sign of pardon and peace4,,xvi-#ag ,kings and princes immolated two on their wedding-day2,,xvi-#ah and nations subdued by the ,roman arms prostrated themselves before the standard1 whose image promised them the clemency of their conquerors4,,xvi-#ai ,the re-establishment of the succulent quadruped would have been complete1 if the cynical carelessness of its rather inelegant habits had not caused it to become a symbol of debauchery and profligacy of manners4,,xvi-#bj ,hitherto the pig has only figured in a point of view purely historical2 we have not sought to weaken its faults1 nor have we made mention of the qualities attributed to it--for example1 that of discovering truffles4 ,nevertheless1 we ought not to lose sight of the fact1 that this animal has not passed entirely without renown through the centuries which divide us from the earliest ages of the world4 ,we shall now speak of its flesh1 its exquisite flavour1 and the place it occupied in feasts3 there it reigned with honour2 there we must follow it1 with all that antiquity has possessed of celebrated men in the science of degustation and good living4 ,nature has created the pig for man's palate2 he is good only to be eaten2 and life appears to have been given to him merely as a sort of salt to prevent his corrupting4,,xvi-#ba ,it is true that he possesses only a vulgar and purely animal substance2 but how good is this substance1 and how high does it deserve to be placed on account of its delicacy and flavour8,,xvi-#bb ,such is the praise of which a physician and two philosophers have thought it worthy4 ,the pig furnishes a strong and somewhat heavy kind of food2,,xvi-#bc wherefore wrestlers were recommended to eat much of it1 and ,galen advised it to persons who worked hard1 or used violent exercise4,,xvi-#bd ,but it was not necessary to recommend to the ,greeks a meat of which they were so fond4 ,look over the long work of ,athenus--he everywhere extols it1 everywhere speaks of it with fresh complacency1 and in pompous terms4,,xvi-#be ,an ,athenian1 renowned as a man of taste and for the refined elegance of his table1 would have thought his reputation lost had he not offered to his guests fat andouilles1 sausages1 pigs' feet1 and pork cutlets2 above all1 he was careful not to forget salted and smoked hams--the honour of the banquet1 and the delight of the human race4,,xvi-#bf ,the ,macedonian1 ,caranus1 invited twenty of his best friends to his wedding1 and gave them a feast1 of which gastrophagic annals have preserved the remembrance4 ,each guest received from his munificence a flagon and crown of silver1 a crown of gold1 and vases of the same precious metal4 ,what shall we say of the dishes displayed at this meeting of learned epicureans8 ,composed by the art of the most skilful cooks1 struck with admiration1 they ate and relished1 whilst unexpected wonders unceasingly solicited their fatigued1 yet not satiated1 appetites2 when at last appeared an immense silver dish1 on which was displayed an entire roasted hog1 whose vast sides concealed a multitude of quails and other small birds1 ttines de truie1 relishing yolks of eggs1 oysters1 and a host of shell fish1 prepared with that scientific regard for gastric energy which considerably increases its power4,,xvi-#bg ,macedonia possessed a particular species of pig1 greatly envied by the rest of ,greece4 ,certain individuals of this giant race acquired enormous proportions1 and ,king ,eumenes used to give as much as sixty-four pounds sterling for one of these animals1 provided it measured four feet seven inches in height1 and as much in length4,,xvi-#bh ,it will be easily understood that the cooks vied with each other1 to see who could form unheard-of combinations with the succulent pieces which these enormous pigs furnished4 ,they disguised the taste and form in a thousand different ways1 and the most experienced palate was always the dupe of these exquisite deceptions4 ,thus ,titius ,quintus1 a clever amateur1 being enraptured with the number and astonishing variety of dishes which his host caused to be served1 at ,chalies in ,etolia1 what was his surprise when the amiable ,amphytrion smilingly told him that he had eaten nothing but pork6,,xvi-#bi ,rome1 be it observed1 knew how to follow the example of ,greece2 and1 in the hands of its skilful cooks1 the flesh of this heavy animal was often transformed into delicate fish1 ducks1 turtle doves1 or capons4,,xvi-#cj ,but the masterpiece of these great artists--the ne plus ultra of their fertile imagination--was the hog la ,troyenne1 so named because from the depth of its inside issued battalions of thrushes1 myriads of ortolans1 and fig-peckers 7becaficoes7--an ingenious image of those armed cohorts inclosed in the horse of ,troy4,,xvi-#ca ,everywhere the sumptuous dish is cited1 but nothing is said of the manner in which it was prepared4 ,the curious will perhaps be thankful to find that this omission is here repaired3-- ,the animal is artistically bled under the shoulder4 ,when all the blood has flowed1 the intestines are drawn out by the throat1 and washed for a long time with wine1 taking care to pass it through them4 ,the pig is then hung up by the feet1 and washed also with wine4 ,an excellent gravy must be prepared beforehand1 with meat hashed small and well peppered1 with which you stuff the intestines1 and then force them back into their place by the throat4 ,pour in at the same time a great quantity of gravy1 and fill the animal with small game4 ,half of the pig is afterwards covered with a thick paste of barley meal1 wine1 and oil4 ,it is then put into a portable oven1 on a small metal table1 where it is roasted by a slow fire4 ,when the skin has assumed a fine colour it is withdrawn1 and boiled on the other side2 the paste covering is then entirely removed1 and the pig la ,troyenne may be served4,,xvi-#cb ,the ,romans reared a great number of these animals1 and also procured many from foreign countries1 especially from ,arcadia1 which produced some of extraordinary size4 ,varro relates that in this part of the ,peloponnesus he was shown a pig so fat that it was impossible for the animal to make the least movement2 and that a mouse had settled on its back with her young family1 softly ensconced in the fat1 where they fed at the expense of the careless animal4,,xvi-#cc ,rome adopted1 with a kind of gastronomic rage1 the preparations and ragots celebrated in ,greece4,,xvi-#cd ,the ,trojan pig never failed to appear on tables renowned for their luxury2,,xvi-#ce and sucking pigs were eaten in such profusion1 that the censors were obliged to interdict their use4 ,alexander ,severus renewed this prohibition4,,xvi-#cf ,the large pigs stuffed with game 7an expensive delicacy of patrician tables7 also called forth new sumptuary laws1,,xvi-#cg which only provoked disdain1 and which fashion soon rendered obsolete4 ,we hardly dare mention a strange dish1 in great request among the rich and luxurious1 who alone could procure it4 ,the first preparation consisted in stifling the young before they were littered4,,xvi-#ch ,thank ,heaven1 this culinary atrocity could not survive an epoch without parallel1 perhaps1 in the history of human follies1 by we know not what refinement of incredible gluttony1 of frightful depravity1 and atrocious cruelty1 which1 together1 prepared the downfall of the ,roman colossus4 ,besides this disgusting dish1 much was thought at ,rome1 as well as at ,athens1 of pig's head1 spare-rib1 hams1 and bacon4 ,seven other parts occupied the second rank--these were the ears1 feet1 foreloin1 fillet1 cheek1 intestines1 and blood4,,xvi-#ci ,westphalia supplied sumptuous tables with much-esteemed hams2 but those of ,sardinia1 ,catalonia1 and ,cantabria were1 nevertheless1 preferred4,,xvi-#dj ,they were sometimes served at the beginning of a repast1 in order to excite the appetite2 and also often at the close1 in order to re-animate its extinguished ardour1 and provoke new libations4,,xvi-#da ,one of the most ancient geoponics teaches how to prepare1 salt1 and smoke hams2,,xvi-#db for the inhabitants of the country1 and the lower classes in the cities1 showed a singular taste for this delicate meat1 which the ,gauls 7great amateurs of pork7,,xvi-#dc sent them at a low price1 with an enormous quantity of pickled pork1 andouillettes1 and sausages4,,xvi-#dd ,this last preparation1 very celebrated in ,lucania1,,xvi-#de served as a means of livelihood to a great number of ,roman women1 who also employed themselves in making excellent black puddings1 in imitation of those eaten in ,greece4,,xvi-#df ,bacon was then of great utility1 as in the present day1 though oil superseded it in the concoction of a host of dishes4 ,bacon for a long time served almost as the exclusive food of the ,romans1,,xvi-#dg before their unruly luxury had given it up to the soldiers and proletarians4,,xvi-#dh ,it was also found in all public houses1,,xvi-#di where the populace habitually gorged themselves with pork1 vegetables1,,xvi-#ej and hot water4,,xvi-#ea ,the ancients salted the pig1 in order to preserve it2 but ,apicius taught them a very simple process for the use of epicures1 which advantageously replaced common brine4 ,you take middling-sized pieces of pork1 cover them entirely with a sort of paste1 composed of salt1 vinegar1 and honey1 and place them in vessels which you close carefully4,,xvi-#eb ,we will now indicate some of the dishes most in vogue prepared with pork--a meat so much esteemed by the ,greeks and ,romans1 and in which they believed themselves to have discovered fifty different flavours1,,xvi-#ec or fifty parts1 each possessing a distinct taste from the other4 ,apician ,pork4--,roast a fine young sucking pig2 and whilst a slow fire gently embellishes it with a golden colour1 pound1 with pepper and alisander1 some coriander seed1 mint1 and rue4 ,then pour over it some wine1 honey1 garum1 or gravy2 mix with care these different ingredients1 and pour this seasoning on your roast1 as soon as you have taken it from the spit or oven4,,xvi-#ed ,macedonian ,pork4--,choose1 among a number of large and fine sucking pigs1 the one which appears to you the most worthy of the culinary sacrifice4 ,draw it by the upper part2 clean it well1 and fill it with chicken sausages chopped small1 the flesh of thrushes1 ortolans1 and pork2 add ,lucanian sausages1 dates without stones1 raisins1 and afterwards1 mallow1 beet1 leeks1 parsley1 coriander1 whole pepper1 and pine nuts2 add eggs1 and a good quantity of well-peppered gravy4 ,bake it1 having previously scored the back of the animal1 so that it may be basted with its own gravy4 ,when a delightful odour shall then warn you that it is done1 cover it1 before serving1 with a relishing mixture of pepper1 rue1 garum1 or gravy1 to which you must add wine1 honey1 and a little oil4,,xvi-#ee ,stuffed ,sucking ,pig4--,the intestines are drawn out by the throat1 and an opening made under the skin4 ,you then fill with stuffing a bladder1 to the neck of which is securely fixed a long and narrow tube1 which will convey to every part the somewhat liquid substance which you will express from the bladder4 ,the opening is then closed with parchment sewn to the skin4 ,it is hardly necessary to say that this operation should be performed in several places4 ,let us now see to the inside4 ,crush pepper1 alisander1 wild marjoram1 and a little benzoin root2 mix with this1 garum or gravy1 cooked brains1 raw eggs1 flour1 and pork gravy2 the whole must be boiled on a slow fire1 and the pig filled with it1 also with little birds1 pine nuts1 whole pepper1 and garum4 ,it now only remains to place it in the oven1 watch over the cooking1 baste it with gravy1 and serve4,,xvi-#ef ,aristoxenic ,ham4--,take a fresh ham1 salt it1 and smoke it two days2 then rub it with a mixture of oil and vinegar1 and hang it to the ceiling4,,xvi-#eg ,some days after you must boil it with a great quantity of figs and three bay leaves2 then take off the skin1 make incisions in the flesh1 and fill them with honey4 ,finally1 prepare a paste of flour and oil1 with which cover the ham2 put it into the oven1 and withdraw it only when this crust is completely done4,,xvi-#eh ,lucullian ,ham4--,cook a ham1 newly salted1 with two pounds of barley and twenty-five figs4 ,then bone it1 and slightly scarify the skin with an iron blade2 put it into the oven1 taking care to cover it with a little honey4 ,when it begins to colour1 put into a saucepan some cooked wine1 pepper1 wine and a bunch of rue1 the half of which is then poured on the ham4 ,the other half of this seasoning serves to humect the quenelles which you have taken beforehand from the ham previous to baking2 these must be well soaked with gravy1 and then1 if you have any remaining1 pour it over the ham1 which you serve surrounded by the quenelles4,,xvi-#ei ,ventre de ,truie l',athnienne4--,it is boiled with sweet herbs and served with a seasoning of cummin seed1 vinegar1 and silphium4,,xvi-#fj ,ventre de ,truie la ,romaine4--,it is cooked in the manner before described1 and seasoned with a sauce composed of pepper1 parsley seed1 dried mint1 benzoin-root1 honey1 vinegar1 and garum4,,xvi-#fa ,fillet of ,pork la ,botienne4--,when it has been covered with honey and vinegar1 and baked in the oven1 it is eaten with a seasoning of pepper1 benzoin1 and garum4,,xvi-#fb ,ttines de ,truie la ,salienne4--,cook them in water2 make several incisions2 cover them with salt1 and place them in the oven1 or on the gridiron2 prepare a seasoning of pepper and alisander1 with garum1 wine1 and cooked wine2 thicken with fine floor2 put in the ttines1 and serve4,,xvi-#fc ,ttines la ,flamine4--,mix the flesh of a sea-hedge hog with carrots and pepper2 introduce the mixture into the ttines2 sew up the opening2 cook them in the oven1 or on the gridiron1 and eat them with brine and mustard4,,xvi-#fd ,olympian ,pig's ,liver4--,take the liver of a pig that has been fed only on figs1 bake it1 and serve with a seasoning of nogarum1 pepper1 thyme1 alisander1 garum1 oil1 and a little vinegar4,,xvi-#fe ,capitolian ,pig's ,liver4--,make incisions in the liver of a pig that has been fed on nothing but figs1 and put it into garum with pepper1 alisander1 and two bay leaves2 then wrap it in the caul1 cook it on the gridiron1 and serve4,,xvi-#ff ,campanian ,bacon4--,it is cooked by just covering it with water and a good quantity of dill1 to which a little oil and salt are afterwards added4,,xvi-#fg ,quenelles of ,pig's ,liver and ,brains4--,roast a pig's liver1 and take off all the fibrous parts2 sprinkle it with pounded pepper and rue2 add some gravy2 stir the whole well2 then cut it into small slices1 each of which you must cover with a bay leaf2 hang them over the smoke as long as you think necessary4 ,when you wish to eat them1 roast them afresh2 then put them into a mortar1 with pepper1 alisander1 and wild marjoram2 stir them1 add gravy and dressed sucking pigs' brains1 pounded with care2 then add five eggs1 and dissolve them in such a manner as to make the whole thoroughly compact2 pour over it some gravy1 and cook in a saucepan2 when cooked1 throw it on a very clean table1 and out this pulp into small square pieces1 which mix in the mortar with pepper1 alisander1 and wild marjoram4 ,when you have gently stirred all this1 it must again be put into a saucepan1 and boiled over a slow fire4 ,at the moment of ebullition1 pour it on a plate1 sprinkle with pepper1 and serve4,,xvi-#fh ,lucanian ,sausages4--,pound in a mortar some pepper1 cummin1 and winter savory with bay leaves1 and moisten with gravy and garum2 then add to this mixture some pork1 chopped small1 more garum and pepper1 and a good quantity of bacon1 with a few pine nuts4 ,when these various ingredients are well incorporated one with another1 you stuff the prepared intestines1 and hang up the sausages4,,xvi-#fi ,imperial ,sausages4--,cut some pork into very small pieces1 which most be pounded with the finest bread1 well-soaked in wine2 then pound some pepper and decorticated myrtle leaves1 and add some gravy4 ,make some small sausages1 and put inside some fir-nuts4 ,when these sausages are finished1 you must cook them over a slow fire1 with sweet wine1 previously reduced to a-third4,,xvi-#gj ,the following is the seasoning you must add to it3-- ,bone some small chickens1 and put them into a saucepan1 with leeks1 dill1 and salt4 ,when this is cooked1 add pepper and smallage seed2 then crumble some sesame bread1 on which pour some very thick gravy1 mix the whole well1 and serve with the sausages4,,xvi-#ga ,the ,gauls had very considerable herds of swine1 which they fed exclusively upon acorns4 ,the inhabitants of the towns reared them in their houses4 ,as these animals went frequently out1 they caused some obstruction1 and we know that ,philip1 grandson of ,louis-le-,gros1 lost his life in ,paris1 in consequence of a furious pig having run between the legs of his horse1 and caused him to fall4 ,this accident took place on the #ast ,october1 #aaha4 ,the #crd of the same month a proclamation was issued1 forbidding all persons to let their swine ramble through the streets of ,paris4 ,a short time after1 those which belonged to the ,abbaye ,saint-,antoine were privileged2 the abbess and the nuns having represented that it would be a want of courtesy to their patron saint not to exempt his hogs from the general rule4,,xvi-#gb ,a new proclamation of the #bjth ,january1 #ahej1 interdicted with still greater severity the rearing of swine in the town of ,paris1 under penalty of a fine of #fj sous 7two shillings and four-pence72 and the police were authorized to kill them wheresoever they might be found1 to take the head as a perquisite for themselves1 and to deposit the carcase at the ,htel-,dieu 7the name of an hospital71 charging that establishment with the cost incurred for its conveyance4,,xvi-#gc ,there was nothing more delicate in the #afth century1 nothing more odoriferous1 than the flesh of young pigs fed on parsnips1,,xvi-#gc;,a and roasted1 with a stuffing of fine herbs4,,xvi-#gc;,b ,,the ,,ox4 ,a profound sentiment of gratitude has been often the cause of rendering to the ox extraordinary honours1 which no animal1 perhaps1 ever shared with him4 ,the ,egyptians considered this quadruped as the emblem of agriculture1 and of all that serves to support existence2,,xvi-#gd and incense smoked on its altars at ,memphis and ,heliopolis4,,xvi-#ge ,the ,phnicians religiously abstained from its flesh1 and the ,phrygians punished with death whosoever dared to slay the labouring ox4,,xvi-#gf ,in ,greece1 during the heroic ages1 an ox was the reward adjudged to the conquering wrestlers and pugilists2 a horse was the prize of racing or the quoits4,,xvi-#gg ,at a later period the ,athenians decreed that their coins should bear the image of this useful quadruped2,,xvi-#gh and though they then offered it to their gods1 the ceremonies even of the sacrifice testified the repugnance felt at shedding its blood4 ,the sacrificer fled with the greatest speed after he had struck it2 he was followed1 and1 to avoid being arrested1 he threw away the axe he had used1 and accused it of causing the death of the innocent ox4 ,the axe was then seized and tried2 some one defended it1 and alleged that it was less guilty than the grinder who had sharpened the blade4 ,the latter cast the odium of the crime on the grinding stone1 so that the trial was never ended1 and the pretended offence remained unpunished4,,xvi-#gi ,for a long time the greater part of the ancients considered it a sin to eat the flesh of the ox1 the companion of the agriculturist1 whose patient vigour hollows the furrow which is to be the means of his support4,,xvi-#hj ,but the bad example of ,proserpine1 who prepared one for ,hercules1,,xvi-#ha caused these scruples1 one by one1 to be hushed1 the solemn prohibition of the legislator of ,athens forgotten2,,xvi-#hb and1 in spite of the obstinate resistance of the ,pythagorians and the disciples of ,empedocles1 every one declared in favour of the doctrines of ,zeno and ,epicurus4 ,moreover1 it is certain that the heroes of ,homer were not so scrupulous3 ,menelaus offered roast-beef to ,telemachus2 ,agamemnon also presented some to the wise ,nestor2 and an ox1 roasted whole1 frequently appeased the robust appetite of the illustrious chiefs of ,greece4,,xvi-#hc ,if we go back to centuries still more remote1 and of which a venerable historian has preserved us an account1 we find herds of oxen were possessed by the great patriarchal families4,x,,xvi-#hd ,abraham cooked a calf and served it to the three angels1 in the valley of ,mamre2,,xvi-#he and the flesh of this animal1 whether ox or heifer1 was evidently much in use in the primitive ages1 since no particular proscription exempts them from those beings having 8life and motion10,,xvi-#hf and which are to serve us as food4,,xvi-#hg ,as to ,moses1 far from interdicting it to the ,israelites1 he places the ox in the first rank of pure animals1,,xvi-#hh whose flesh was allowed them4 ,the oracle of ancient medicine1 ,hippocrates1 praises the flesh of the ox1 in which he recognises the most nutritious qualities1 but nevertheless he believes it to be heavy and indigestible4,,xvi-#hi ,of what material1 then1 must have been the stomach of ,theagenes1 of ,thasos--he1 who devoured a whole bull in one day4,,xvi-#ij ,to be sure1 the same exploit is attributed to ,milo of ,crotona1 whose ordinary meal consisted of eighteen pounds of meat1 as much bread1 and fifteen pints of wine4,,xvi-#ia ,these formidable polyphagists could1 without much expense1 indulge their fabulous appetites2 for1 in the time of ,demosthenes1 #ced ,b4,c41 an ox of the first quality cost only eighty drachmas1 or about two pounds1 eleven shillings1 and eightpence4,,xvi-#ib ,magiric writers have left us very few details on the different methods of cooking the flesh of the ox or calf4 ,it appears to have been generally roasted1,,xvi-#ic in which case it was eaten alone2 but sometimes it was eaten boiled1 with one of the sauces to be hereafter mentioned4 ,these animals were fed with particular care1 in order to render them more worthy of the luxurious tables for which certain choice pieces were destined4 ,the manner of fattening oxen has already been described3 it is only necessary to add1 that calves1 which were to be slaughtered1 received no other food than their mothers' milk2 and that1 frequently1 they were not killed before the expiration of a twelvemonth4,,xvi-#id ,double tripe was reputed as an excellent food4 ,the ,asiatics1 ,greeks1 and ,romans were particularly fond of it4 ,it was served at a sumptuous repast prepared for ,achilles2 and ,homer observes1 that this dish was always honourably received at the banquets of heroes4,,xvi-#ie ,athenus1 describing a feast of the most exquisite elegance1 names double tripe among a host of dishes he enumerates2,,xvi-#if he also says1 speaking of a state dinner at which ,philoxenus1 one of the generals of ,alexander the ,great1 was a guest1 that first of all there appeared large basins containing the intestines of animals1 disposed with art around their heads3,,xvi-#ig and it is thus1 he adds1 that even the gods gave themselves up1 in the society of their friends1 to the pleasures of good cheer4,,xvi-#ih ,to be brief1 this artless chronicler of antique gastrophagy1 tells us that after the sacrilegious undertaking of the ,titans1 the human race enjoyed such perfect happiness1 that men caused to be served at every one of their repasts delicious double tripe and savoury intestines4,,xvi-#ii ,this touching example of felicity and innocent gluttony found few imitators at ,rome among that class of voluptuous men who entertained1 at enormous expense1 tasters whose discriminating palates could tell whether a fish had been caught at the mouth of the ,tiber1 or further off2 whether a goose's liver had been fattened with fresh figs1 or only on dried ones4,,xvi-#ajj ,for them tripe could have very little attraction1 but this rather plebeian dish appeared with honour on modest tables1 and proletarian epicures sought for it with eagerness4,,xvi-#aja ,beef l',ibrienne4--,well boil an excellent piece of beef1 and serve it with the following sauce4 ,grind and mix pepper1 alisander1 parsley seed1 wild marjoram1 and dried onions2 moisten with sun-made raisin wine2 stir1 and add honey1 vinegar1 wine1 garum1 oil1 and sweet wine4,,xvi-#ajb ,stewed ,beef la ,sarmate4--,carefully choose a piece of beef1 which stew slowly for a long time with leeks1 cut small1 onions1 or beans4 ,when it is well cooked1 pour over a mixture of pepper1 benzoin1 and a little oil4,,xvi-#ajc ,dish of ,veal la ,syracusaine4--,cook a piece of veal1 on a slow fire1 with pepper1 alisander1 carrots1 and parsley seed1 bruised together in a mortar2 then add honey1 vinegar1 garum1 and oil2 thicken the whole with fine flour1 and serve4,,xvi-#ajd ,noix de ,veau la ,tarantaise4--,take a noix de veau1 cook it in a saucepan with pepper1 alisander1 and fenugreek seed2 add1 later1 some wild marjoram1 pine nuts1 and dates2 then moisten with a mixture of honey1 vinegar1 garum1 mustard1 and oil4 ,when the cookery of these various substances shall have made an homogeneous whole1 serve4,,xvi-#aje ,cisalpine ,preserve4--,mince some beef in very small pieces2 do the same with a little bacon2 add pine nuts1 pounded with dates2 pour on the whole a mixture of vinegar1 garum1 mustard1 and oil2 stir well1 and throw on this pulp a powder of strong odoriferous herbs4 ,stir it a long time1 let it rest1 compress it strongly in a prepared intestine1 close the opening1 and put a string round to tighten it still more4 ,this preserve cannot turn bad4,,xvi-#ajf ,the ox was so precious among the ,romans1 that mention is made of a certain citizen accused before the people and condemned1 because he had killed one of his oxen to satisfy the fancy of a young libertine1 who told him he bad never eaten any tripe4 ,he was banished1 as if he had killed his farmer4,,xvi-#ajg ,the ,brahmin women think to obtain abundance of milk and butter by invoking one particular cow1--the darling cow of the king of heaven2 the type1 mother1 and patroness of all cows4 ,the entire species are treated with the greatest deference2 they have lavished upon them every expression of gratitude1 and one day of each year is set apart as a solemn festival consecrated to their worship4,,xvi-#ajh ,some centuries ago the large pieces of meat were boiled first1 and then roasted4 ,roasted meat was always served with sauce4 ,animals roasted whole were generally filled with an aromatic stuffing4 ,sage was the common seasoning for geese1 and sucking-pigs were stuffed with chesnuts4 ,some minutes before these were taken from the spit1 they were covered with bread crumbs2 and appeared on the table enveloped in a crust composed of bread1 sugar1 orange juice1 and rose water4,,xvi-#aji ,buf ,gras4--,there is a very old custom in the whole of ,france1 and which consists in leading throughout the streets1 in the provincial towns1 on ,shrove ,tuesday1 a fatted ox1 ornamented with flowers and ribbons4 ,this ceremony is considered as a commemorative emblem of the fecundity of the earth4 ,in ,paris1 the ox chosen for the same purpose has generally obtained beforehand the prize awarded by the ,agricultural ,society4 ,the horns of the animal are gilded2 he is afterwards decorated in a sumptuous manner1 and led through the principal thoroughfares of that city1 on ,shrove ,sunday1 ,monday1 and ,tuesday1 to the ,palace of the ,tuileries1 the ministerial residences1 the ,htel-de-,ville1 and the foreign embassies4 ,troops of butchers1 dressed in appropriate fancy costumes1 both on horseback and on foot1 are preceded by bands of music2 and the heathen divinities1 drawn by eight horses in a richly gilt triumphal car1 form one of the most splendid and grotesque pageants of modern times4 ,,the ,,lamb4 ,formerly1 sworn examiners of the clouds1 skilful in discovering the storms they concealed1 announced to the inhabitants of the country the hail by which their crops were threatened1 and every one immediately offered a sacrifice to the inimical cloud1 in order that it might carry ruin and desolation elsewhere4 ,the most devout sacrificed a lamb2 the lukewarm worshippers a fowl2 some even contented themselves with pricking their finger with a pin1 and throwing towards heaven the drops of blood which came out4 ,the cloud1 it is said1 satisfied with these pious offerings1 soon disappeared never to return4,,xvi-#aaj ,the lamb1 an oblation pure and agreeable in the sight of the gods1 reconciled the earth with ,olympus4 ,in ,egypt1 the inhabitants of ,sais and ,thebes offered it to their divinities4,,xvi-#aaa ,minerva and ,juno also were pleased to see its flesh smoking on the altars which ,greece and ,italy raised to them4,,xvi-#aab ,these practices1 no doubt1 were an obscure imitation of the religious rites which ,moses prescribed to his people1,,xvi-#aac and which heathen nations adopted in their turn1 one from the other4,,xvi-#aad ,the ,hebrew law forbad the killing of the ,paschal lamb before it was weaned1 and also the cooking of it in its mother's milk4 ,it was to be eaten roasted1 with unleavened bread1 lettuces1 mustard1 or bitter herbs3 whatever might remain was to be burnt with fire4 ,it was not to be boiled1 nor a bone of it broken4 ,it must be chosen of that year1 a male1 and without fault or blemish4,,xvi-#aae ,many passages of the sacred writings allow us to appreciate the pastoral riches of the first nations of the ,east2 and an idea may be formed of the number of their flocks1 when we are told that ,jacob gave the children of ,hamor a hundred sheep for the price of a field2,,xvi-#aaf and that the ,king of ,israel received a hundred thousand every year from the ,king of ,moab1 his tributary1 and a like number of rams1 covered with their fleece4,,xvi-#aag ,the delicate flesh of the lamb was the ornament of the tables of the voluptuous inhabitants of ,sion and ,samaria4 ,the prophet ,amos reproaches them with this luxury1 and threatens them with the ,divine anger,,xvi-#aah on that account4 ,the ,greeks carried their love for this meat to such a height1 that the magistrates of ,athens were obliged to forbid the eating of lamb which had not been shorn4,,xvi-#aai ,this restriction did not prevent the epicures of ,attica from buying one of these animals every day1 which cost them ten drachmas,,xvi-#abj 7#fs4 #e;d471 and the head of which1 prepared with art1 heightened the beauty of the first course4,,xvi-#aba ,rome and ,italy imitated ,greece1,,xvi-#abb and the flocks of the fertile ,campania hardly sufficed for the exigencies of the capital of the world1 especially towards the end of autumn1 a period at which lambs afforded1 according to the ,romans1 a more highly flavoured and wholesome meat than in the spring4,,xvi-#abc ,lamb's ,head la ,quirinale4--,the head is boiled with pepper1 garum1 and beans1 and served with a sauce consisting of garum1 pepper1 benzoin1 and cummin1 to which is added a little oil1 and small pieces of bread1 soaked in sweet wine4,,xvi-#abd ,quarter of ,lamb l',esquilin4--,place a quarter of lamb in a saucepan with onions and coriander1 chopped very small4 ,then pound pepper1 alisander1 and cummin2 put to it some oil1 wine1 and garum4 ,pour the whole on the lamb2 cook well1 and thicken with fine flour4,,xvi-#abe ,palatine ,broil4--,leave a piece of lamb during some time in a mixture of pepper1 benzoin1 garum1 and oil4 ,after having cooked it in oil and garum1 put it a little while on the gridiron1 sprinkle with pepper1 and serve4,,xvi-#abf ,roast ,lamb la ,phrygienne4--,bake a lamb and serve it with the following sauce3--,mix well half an ounce of pepper1 six scruples of cinnamon1 a little ginger1 half a pint of excellent garum1 and the quarter of that quantity of oil4,,xvi-#abg ,lamb la ,trimalcion4--,draw a lamb at the neck2 preserve the intestines entire1 and wash them with the greatest care2 fill them with force meat and garum2 put them back again by the same way2 sew up the opening1 and place the lamb in the oven4 ,then mix gravy and milk2 add pounded pepper1 garum1 wine1 sweet wine1 and oil2 let it boil only an instant2 thicken with fine floor1 and serve it with the lamb4,,xvi-#abh ,blount informs us of a very ancient and rather strange custom4 ,he says3-- 8,at ,kidlington1 in ,oxfordshire1 the custom is1 that on ,monday after ,whitson week1 there is a fat1 live lamb provided1 and the maids of the town1 having their thumbs tied behind them1 run after it1 and she that with her mouth takes and holds the lamb is declared ,lady of the ,lamb1 which1 being dressed1 with the skin hanging on1 is carried on a long pole before the ,lady and her companions to the ,green1 attended with music1 and a morisco dance of men and another of women1 when the rest of the day is spent in dancing1 mirth1 and merry glee4 ,the next day the lamb is part baked1 boiled1 and roast1 for the ,lady's feast1 where she sits majestically at the upper end of the table1 and her companions with her1 with music and other attendants1 which ends the solemnity40,,xvi-#abi ,,the ,,kid4 ,the kid was one of the most delicate dishes of the ,hebrews3 ,rebecca prepared some for ,isaac1 in order to dispose him to give his blessing to ,jacob4,,xvi-#acj ,moses ordered that1 for the ,feast of ,passover1 a lamb or a kid should be slain4,,xvi-#aca ,samson carried a kid to his young wife when he wished to be reconciled to her4,,xvi-#acb ,the brother of the prodigal son complains to his father that he has never given him a kid to make merry with his friends4,,xvi-#acc ,the ,egyptians1 who represented their god ,pan with the face and legs of a goat1 abstained religiously from killing a kid or eating its flesh4,,xvi-#acd ,their veneration for this animal went so far1 in some countries1 that goat-keepers appeared in their eyes invested with an august and sacred character4,,xvi-#ace ,the ,greeks did not judge it convenient to adopt these strange ideas1 although on other points their theology was sufficiently ridiculous4 ,the kid was considered one of the most dainty dishes in state banquets2 it was served whole1 on a silver basin1 to each of the guests at the wedding of the ,macedonian1 ,caranus4,,xvi-#acf ,the kids of ,attica were especially praised1 and a considerable trade was made of them in ,athens4,,xvi-#acg ,certain connoisseurs1 whose authority had weight1 preferred1 however1 those produced in the ,island of ,mlos4,,xvi-#ach ,a great many also came from ,sicily3 they were in less repute1 and sold at a low price4,,xvi-#aci ,at ,rome1 the kid of ,italy was much thought of2 the most delicate were fattened at ,tivoli1,,xvi-#adj and in different localities of the ,roman ,campagna4,,xvi-#ada ,kid la ,trans-,tibrienne4--,the kid is to be cooked slowly1 with a little milk1 four ounces of honey1 an ounce of pepper1 a little salt and benzoin4 ,after some time1 add eight dates crushed in a mortar1 a little gravy1 garum1 a small quantity of excellent wine2 the whole is thickened with fine flour4,,xvi-#adb ,roast ,kid la ,janiculum4--,empty and carefully clean a kid2 rub it well with oil and pepper2 sprinkle with salt and a large quantity of coriander seed2 place it in the oven1 and bake slowly4,,xvi-#adc ,kid la ,tarpienne4--,empty the kid2 stuff it1 and sew it up2 then entirely cover it with a thick mixture of pepper1 rue1 winter savory1 onions1 a small quantity of thyme1 and some garum2 then place it in an oven1 or on a dish1 covered with oil4 ,when the kid is cooked1 you surround it with a sauce of winter savory1 onions1 rue1 dates1 mixed with wine1 oil1 and cooked wine2 sprinkle with pepper1 and serve4,,xvi-#add ,kid la ,tivoli4--,bake the kid2 then pound some pepper1 rue1 onions1 winter savory1 and ,damascus plums 7without their stones71 a little benzoin1 which you must dilute in wine1 garum1 and oil2 throw this sauce on the kid as you withdraw it from the oven1 and1 at the moment of serving1 cover it with boiling wine4,,xvi-#ade ,kid la ,mlissienne4--,draw the kid at the neck1 and clean the intestines2 then pound some pepper1 alisander1 benzoin root1 two bay leaves1 and a little ,spanish camomile2 add two or three brains2 mix them well together2 then add some garum and a little salt2 afterwards1 a small quantity of milk and honey4 ,fill the intestines with this stuffing1 and place them round the kid1 which you then put into a large basin on the fire4 ,when half-cooked1 you must add a mixture of garum1 oil1 and wine4 ,then bruise some pepper and alisander seed1 which moisten with the gravy of the kid1 and a little cooked wine2 pour it into the basin1 and the moment before serving thicken with fine flour4,,xvi-#adf ,,the ,,ass4 ,the ass was an impure animal1 according to the law of ,moses1 whose flesh was forbidden because it did not ruminate4,,xvi-#adg ,however1 at the siege of ,samaria1 the ,jews were compelled to eat it for want of other food4 ,the famine was such1 that the head of an ass was sold for eighty pieces of silver4,,xvi-#adh ,the ,roman peasants thought the flesh of the young ass had a very agreeable taste1,,xvi-#adi and regaled themselves with it at their rustic festivals4 ,the celebrated ,mecnas one day tasted of this dish at the house of one of his free slaves2 he spoke of it with much praise1 caused it to be served on his own table1 and even succeeded in introducing it on those of the great and rich1 who gave up the onager1 or wild ass1 which they had hitherto preferred1 to humour this illustrious favourite4 ,but this new gastronomic conquest had only a short vogue2 and was forgotten after the death of ,mecnas4,,xvi-#aej ,galen tells us that the cooks of ,alexandria thought much of the ass1,,xvi-#aea whose flesh1 he says1 much resembles that of the stag4,,xvi-#aeb ,still1 this great physician disapproves of the use of this food1 which he considers unsuited to mankind4,,xvi-#aec ,it is asserted1 even at the present day1 that the flesh of the young ass is a pretty good dish2 we have heard1 but we hardly can repeat it1 that much is consumed in the guinguettes round ,paris1 where the artless customers are far from thinking that anything else but veal can be served to them4 ,the modern restaurateurs of the ,barrires of ,paris1 have1 perhaps1 read the biography of ,mecnas1 and endeavour to render popular the dish so honoured by the celebrated favourite4 ,who can blame them8 ,,the ,,dog4 ,we must beg pardon of the reader for informing him that the dog presented a very relishing dish to many nations advanced in culinary science4 ,to them1 one of these animals1 young1 plump1 and delicately prepared1 appeared excellent food4,,xvi-#aed ,the ,greeks1 that people so charming by their seductive folly1 their love of the arts1 their poetic civilization1 and the intelligent spirit of research presiding over their dishes--the ,greeks 7we grieve to say it7 ate dogs1 and even dared to think them good3 the grave ,hippocrates himself--the most wise1 the least gluttonous1 and therefore the most impartial of their physicians--was convinced that this quadruped furnished a wholesome and1 at the same time1 a light food4,,xvi-#aee ,as to the ,romans1 they also liked it1,,xvi-#aef and no doubt prepared it in the same manner as the hare1 which they thought it resembled in taste4,,xvi-#aeg ,however1 it is but right to add1 that this dish1 which we will not even hear mentioned1 was never favourably received by the fashionable portion of ,roman society1 and that the legislators of ancient gastrophagy even repulsed it with disdain4 ,there is every reason to believe that the people regaled themselves with a roast or boiled dog1 especially once a year1 at the period when they celebrated the deliverance of the ,capitol from the siege of the ,gauls4 ,it is known that1 at this solemnity1 a goose1 laid on a soft cushion1 was carried in triumph1 followed by an unhappy dog nailed to a cross1,,xvi-#aeh whose loud cries greatly amused the populace4 ,in this manner they commemorated the signal service rendered by one animal1 and the fatal negligence of the other4 ,the ,gauls scaled the ,capitol while the dogs slept1 and ,rome had been lost if the deafening cries of the geese had not given an alarm to the garrison1 who1 it must be allowed1 should have kept better watch4 ,the quadrupeds last mentioned are the only domestic animals of the kind used as food by the ancients4 ,the chase afforded them several others1 which we shall mention1 after having just glanced at the poultry--one of the most interesting divisions in natural history for the serious and reflective appreciator of gastronomic productions4 ,,xvii4 ,,poultry4 ,the air is less dense than the earth1 said ,aristotle2 poultry ought1 then1 to stand higher in estimation than quadrupeds4,,xvii-#a ,it is1 adds ,galen1 the lightest and best of all aliments4,,xvii-#b ,after this1 would any one dare to accuse of sensuality those who1 wisely following the diet recommended by these great men1 prefer a fat capon or delicate fowl1 to heavy1 common butcher's meat8 ,our masters1 the ancients1 have left us fine examples on this head4 ,in vain did impertinent sumptuary laws1 enemies of progress1 strive to repress the luxury of the farm-yards4 ,these precautions on behalf of abstinence against the magiric genius were unceasingly met by a resistance1 as energetic as it was truly ,roman4 ,fannius1 ,archius1 ,cornelius1 could make martyrs2 but let us say1 with pride1 good cheer never had cause to envy them deserters and apostates4 ,one of these tyrannical decrees was just published2 a tribune of the people1 a man of heart and taste1 undertook to have it repealed4 ,he courageously mounted the rostrum1 and cried1 with an inspired voice3 8,romans6 you are treated like slaves4 ,by the gods6 what can be more strange than the new law8 ,they would force you to sobriety1 whether you will or no6 ,they would impose temperance on you6 ,ah6 renounce this pretended liberty1 of which you are so jealous1 since you are no longer allowed to ruin yourselves1 each one according to his fancy1 or die of indigestion if you please40 ,this discourse was received as it deserved to be1 and unanimous applause proved to the orator that he was addressing men capable of understanding him4 ,but1 alas6 this excellent tribune had a dangerous enemy3 the censor1 ,lucius ,flaccus1 a sort of fanatic teetotaller and carniphobis of that time1 had sufficient credit to cause this worthy citizen to be driven from the senate4 ,but ,rome revenged him by devouring more poultry than ever4,,xvii-#c ,in the early ages of the ,church1 poultry in general was regarded as a food for fast days2 and this opinion was founded on the text in ,genesis1 where it is said that birds and fishes were created on the fifth day1 whereas quadrupeds were created on the sixth4,,xvii-#d ,st4 ,benedict1 in his rule1 does not formally forbid the monks any other flesh than that of quadrupeds2 and ,st4 ,columbanus1 in his1 permits the monks the flesh of poultry1 in default of fish4 ,the ,greek monks ate it down to the #ajth century4 ,,the ,,cock4 ,an object of divine worship in ,syria1,,xvii-#e the cock was considered by almost every nation as the emblem of vigilance and courage4,,xvii-#f ,thus1 heathen antiquity consecrated it to the god of battles4,,xvii-#g ,themistocles1 marching with his army against ,xerxes1 ,king of ,persia1 met with some cocks fighting furiously2 he made his troops halt1 that they might observe them1 and he then addressed a spirited discourse to them on the subject4 ,he conquered1 and on his return to ,athens1 desired that every year a cock-fight should commemorate his victory4,,xvii-#h ,these cruel games soon spread throughout ,greece1 and feathered champions were reared with great care1 and obtained at a high price from ,rhodes1 ,botia1 ,mela1 and ,chalcis4,,xvii-#i ,italy also wished to enjoy this barbarous pastime4 ,at ,pergamus1 any spectator might throw a cock into the arena1 and a prize was awarded to the lucky possessor of the bird who remained master of the field of battle4,,xvii-#aj ,this warlike bird has never enjoyed a high culinary reputation2 nevertheless1 it was eaten when old1 that is to say1 at that period of its life when its flesh1 hard1 fibrous1 and tough1 possesses neither juice nor flavour--then this wretched food was left to those among the common people who joyously feasted in the drinking-shops of ,rome4 ,they1 however1 always avoided making fricassees of white cocks1 because they were consecrated to the month1 and proclaimed the hours4,,xvii-#aa ,,the ,,capon4 ,the cock being banished from the table of all respectable people1 the necessity of dressing hens became evident1 for it was necessary to live4 ,now1 you are aware that there are two sorts of hens2 one sort consumptive looking and tough1 the other tender1 plump1 and before which an epicure banishes every other thought1 and sighs with pleasure4 ,these last were preferred1 and1 in order to render them more worthy of the voluptuous epicures for whom they were intended1 they learned from the inhabitants of the island of ,cos the art of fattening them in dark and closed places1 with certain wonderful pastes1 which increased their delicacy and tempting whiteness4,,xvii-#ab ,this ingenious invention belonged to ,greece and ,asia4 ,rome possessed herself of it1 and even improved it2 but soon the constant tyrant of the kitchen1 the ,consul1 ,c4 ,fannius1 who thought bad what others thought good1 and who pretended that in consequence of the immense consumption made of them1 the result would be that not a living hen would be left in the empire1 ordered that for the future the ,romans should dispense with fattening and eating this delicious winged animal4,,xvii-#ac ,fortunately1 the law said nothing about young cocks2 this silence saved ,roman gastronomy1 and the capon was invented4,,xvii-#ad ,it is not necessary to relate with what transports of delight this new creation was greeted2 it will be easily understood4 ,rome was moved2 the famous ,greek cooks1 who consecrated their science to her1 were on tip-toe4 ,everywhere1 from mouth to mouth1 spread the name of the skilful enchanter1 who could in such a manner metamorphose the clarion of the farm yard4 ,fannius1 himself1 it is said1 wished to be assured of the truth of the prodigy3 he was served with a roast capon1 and the praises he bestowed on it were assuredly the triumph of the bird1 of epicures1 and of art4,,xvii-#ae ,from this remarkable epoch1 nearly all chickens underwent the ingenious transformation which rendered them so welcome to all ,lucullian tables2,,xvii-#af and it caused such a destruction of birds1 that the consul repented1 but too late1 that he had only named hens in his sumptuary law4 ,capon la ,dliaque4--,draw completely a fat capon2 then bruise pepper1 alisander1 and ginger1 which you must mix with sausage-meat and fine flour1 and a pig's brains cooked2 add some eggs1 then some garum1 a little oil1 whole pepper1 and several pine nuts4 ,make a stuffing of this mixture1 and put it into the capon1 which afterwards roast before a slow fire4,,xvii-#ag ,,the ,,hen4 ,the cackling of hens infallibly announced1 among the ancients1 some dreadful calamity to the person who had the misfortune to hear it4,,xvii-#ah ,this fatal omen must have rendered a great number of people unfortunate2 for whether she lays eggs1 or conducts her young family1 a hen generally cackles4 ,they therefore sought to diminish the number of these birds of ill-omen2 they fattened them for eating1 and they did right1 since1 according to learned physicians1 the flesh of these birds is good for weakly persons1 as well as those who are convalescent4,,xvii-#ai ,healthy individuals also find this food suit them perfectly4 ,in ,greece there would have been something wanting at a feast1 if fat hens had not been served4 ,they embellished the celebrated wedding repast of ,caranus2 and ,athenus often speaks of them when describing a grand banquet4,,xvii-#bj ,at ,rome1 the art of fattening them became a serious occupation1 which was long studied1 and had its precepts and rules4 ,marcus ,llius ,strabo1 belonging to the order of knights1 invented aviaries in which hens were confined2,,xvii-#ba others sought and discovered the means of giving to their flesh that particular flavour unperceived by uncultivated palates1 but which the experienced gastrophilist always appreciates4 ,they patiently gave themselves up to laborious experiments3 a warm1 narrow1 dark spot received these interesting volatiles2 the feathers of their wings and tails were plucked1 and they were gorged twice a day during three weeks with balls of barley flour mixed with soft water4 ,great cleanliness was combined with this diet3 their heads were well cleansed1 and care taken that no insect should enter the aviary4,,xvii-#bb ,afterwards barley flour1 kneaded with milk1 was preferred2 then1 instead of milk1 water1 and honey were employed4 ,excellent wheaten bread1 soaked in good wine and hydromel1 was also used with success4,,xvii-#bc ,skilful breeders by these means obtained magnificent hens of an incredibly exquisite flavour1 and which weighed no less than sixteen pounds4,,xvii-#bd ,the ,fannian law unfortunately came1 and1 as we have before observed1 brought impediments to these beautiful results by interdicting aviaries and skilfully prepared pastes4 ,it is true that this law allowed a farm-yard hen to be served at every repast,,xvii-#be--mais une poule par jour est-ce contentement8 ,it became necessary1 then1 to have recourse to a mezzo-termine1 which was discovered in the capon4 ,but the favourite dish forbidden by the consular authority was not altogether abandoned3 some faithful epicureans always possessed in the shade well-furnished aviaries2 and it was even then1 we are assured1 that ,rome and the universe were enriched with the poularde4,,xvii-#bf ,poularde la ,viminale4--,cook a fine hen in its gravy2 pound and mix benzoin1 pepper1 oil1 and garum1 a little thyme1 fennel seed1 cummin1 mint1 and rue2 stir for a long time2 add some vinegar2 pound some dates1 and mix them with honey and a little vinegar4 ,of all this make a homogeneous seasoning1 and pour it on the hen when it is cold4,,xvii-#bg ,,the ,,chicken4 ,it is certainly surprising that a people so serious as the ,romans generally were1 should make the success of the greatest enterprise depend on the appetite of their famous sacred chickens4 ,they were brought from the ,island of ,negropont1 and were kept shut up in cages2 their guardian was designated by the name of ,pullarius4,,xvii-#bh ,publius ,claudius1 constrained to consult these strange prophets before engaging in a naval combat1 ordered them to be fed2 they refused to open their beaks4 ,the incredulous general ordered them at once to be thrown into the sea1 and laughingly exclaimed to the dismayed ,pullarius3 8,since they will not eat--well6 then let us make them drink40,,xvii-#bi ,diodorus of ,sicily1 and some ancient writers1 tell us that the ,egyptians1 from a remote period1 hatched chickens in ovens4 ,this process is decidedly of the highest antiquity1 and was applied to the eggs of all kinds of poultry4,,xvii-#cj ,in the last century1 ,raumur tried various experiments1 and recovered this art1 which was thought to have been lost2 others again have followed the steps of this skilful observer1 and1 at the present day1 obtain the most satisfactory results4 ,chickens have ever been considered an estimable food1 and hardly yielded to the two glories of their family--the fattened hen and the capon4,,xvii-#ca ,the ,greeks served them at all their feasts of ceremony1 and the ,romans granted them a distinguished place among the dishes of the second course4 ,apician ,macedonia of ,chicken4--,chop small the meat of a chicken1 which mix with a kid's breast1 and put it into a saucepan with parsley seed1 dried pennyroyal1 dried mint1 ginger1 green coriander1 and raisins2 then add three pieces of the finest oaten bread1 some honey1 vinegar1 oil1 and wine2 some time after1 add some excellent cheese1 pine nuts1 cucumbers1 and dried onions1 well chopped4 ,pour some gravy over the whole1 and when it is cooked1 surround the dish on all sides with snow1 and serve4,,xvii-#cb ,parthian ,chicken4--,open the croup dexterously1 and put it in the saucepan2 then mix some pepper1 alisander1 a little carrot1 garum1 and wine2 fill the chicken with this seasoning2 cook well1 and sprinkle with pepper before serving4,,xvii-#cc ,numidian ,chicken4--,begin by boiling a chicken for some time2 then place it in a stew-pan1 after having sprinkled it with benzoin and pepper4 ,afterwards bruise some pepper1 cummin1 coriander seed1 benzoin root1 pine nuts1 rue1 and dates2 add honey1 vinegar1 garum1 and oil2 boil1 thicken with fine flour1 sprinkle with pepper1 and serve4,,xvii-#cd ,chicken la ,frontonienne4--,half cook a chicken1 and then put into the saucepan garum1 oil1 a bunch of dill1 some leeks1 winter savory1 and green coriander4 ,you then sprinkle with pepper1 and serve4,,xvii-#ce ,chicken la ,clienne4--,cook a chicken with garum1 oil1 wine1 coriander seed1 and onion4 ,then put some milk and a little salt into another saucepan1 with honey and a little water1 and cook this mixture over a very slow fire4 ,throw in by degrees some raspings of sweet biscuits1 and take care to stir continually4 ,put the chicken into this sauce1 and then serve with a seasoning of pepper1 alisander1 and wild marjoram1 mixed with honey and cooked vine1 which must be boiled and thickened with fine flour4,,xvii-#cf ,,the ,,duck4 ,the duck swims so well it was thought to be paying a compliment to ,neptune by sacrificing it to him4,,xvii-#cg ,the god of the seas never found fault with this offering4 ,attica and the whole of ,greece sought the beautiful ducks of ,botia1,,xvii-#ch and that province was always found to have supplied a larger number than it reared4 ,it is true the poulterers of ,athens1 banishing all scruples of conscience1 rarely failed to satisfy their customers as to the doubtful origin of a white nssa 7duck71 by taking ,neptune to witness that it was a pure ,botian1 a real duck1 as they said emphatically1 of that species so much appreciated by connoisseurs4 ,future quidnuncs will examine whether the friendly duck of the ,english and the political and literary canard of the ,french have1 or have not1 found their way from ,greece1 after wandering a little on the road4 ,there were ducks at that prodigious dinner of the opulent ,caranus1 of whom we have already spoken several times4 ,they were always served at the tables of the rich ,greeks2,,xvii-#ci and ,archigenes reckons them among the viands which agree best with the stomach4,,xvii-#dj ,cato was of the same opinion2 and1 if we are to believe ,plutarch1 he made them the food of those of his family who were ill1 and boasted of maintaining his children1 servants1 and himself in perfect health1 by the aid of this diet alone4,,xvii-#da ,it was the same idea that made ,mithridates mix the flesh of ducks with all he ate1 as an antidote against poison1 which he feared4,,xvii-#db ,hippocrates evinces a contrary opinion4 ,the flesh of this bird seemed to him hard1 heavy1 and indigestible4,,xvii-#dc ,avicenna goes still further3 he threatens all who eat it with fever4,,xvii-#dd ,the ,romans were no more frightened than the ,greeks at the decision of the father of medicine4 ,lentulus1 one of the high magiric authorities of ,rome1 ordered that the duck should figure in the most honourable manner at the brilliant feast of which ,macrobius has preserved us an account4,,xvii-#de ,it must1 however1 be remembered that polite people1 who observed the forms and usages of society1 only offered to their guests the breast and head of this biped2 the remainder returned to the kitchen4,,xvii-#df ,ducks' ,brains l',epicurienne4--,cook some ducks' brains1 and mince them very small2 then place in a saucepan1 with pepper1 cummin1 benzoin root1 garum1 sweet wine1 and oil2 add milk and eggs1 and submit the whole to the action of a slow fire1 or rather1 cook them in a bain-marie4,,xvii-#dg ,apicius's ,seasoning for a ,roast ,duck4--,make a mixture of pepper1 cummin1 alisander1 mint1 stoned raisins1 or ,damascus plums2 add a little honey and myrtle wine2 place it in a saucepan2 cook1 and then add to these substances vinegar1 garum1 and oil2 afterwards some parsley and savory2 serve with the roast duck4,,xvii-#dh ,,the ,,goose4 ,when a flock of geese are obliged to pass ,mount ,taurus--the dreaded abode of their enemies1 the eagles--each of them takes the precaution to hold a stone in its beak1 in order that he may keep a profound silence1 which1 otherwise1 his natural loquacity would render impossible4,,xvii-#di ,this1 if true1 would justify ,aristotle in attributing foresight to the goose2,,xvii-#ej a quality which ,scaliger also claims for this bird4,,xvii-#ea ,the ancients highly esteemed its flesh4 ,homer,,xvii-#eb and ,athenus,,xvii-#ec speak with praise of the fat geese and goslings which the ,greeks ate4 ,the ,egyptians served them at their meals every day2 it was1 with veal1 the favourite dish of their monarchs1,,xvii-#ed and they did not forget to offer some to ,king ,agesilaus1 when he was travelling through the country4,,xvii-#ee ,some eastern nations were impressed with such deep veneration for this bird that they swore by nothing else4,,xvii-#ef ,the ,britons honoured it1 and forbad all persons to do it the least harm4,,xvii-#eg ,it remained for ,queen ,elizabeth to prove1 at her joyous dinners of the #bith ,september1 that tastes and usages are modified by time4,,xvii-#eh ,and moreover1 many centuries before1 her ancestors had been greatly wanting in respect towards a particular kind of goose1 which they roasted without any ceremony4,,xvii-#ei ,a well-deserved sentiment of gratitude rendered them dear to the ,romans3 their noisy clamour had formerly saved the ,capitol4,,xvii-#fj ,they became for them1 as for the ,egyptians1,,xvii-#fa a symbol of safety1 and were reared1 both in town and country1 to guard the houses4,,xvii-#fb ,those which were kept1 out of gratitude1 in the ,capitol1 were consecrated to ,juno1 ,isis1 ,mars1 and ,priapus1,,xvii-#fc and every year one of them was chosen for the brilliant and solemn ceremony we have already mentioned4,,xvii-#fd ,but1 alas6 time obscures and effaces all the glories of this world2 and that of the ,roman geese1 no doubt1 had to submit to this sad fate1,,xvii-#fe for they were eaten at least a century before the time of ,pliny4 ,unfortunate bird6 ,yes1 a perfidious art fed them delicately in the shade1 in convenient aviaries1 where nothing was wanting for their comfort1 and at the end of a few days the poor victims made but one step from this dangerous retreat to the place of execution4,,xvii-#ff ,the ,emperor ,alexander ,severus became so fond of this dish1 that on his great festival days they served him with a goose and a pheasant4,,xvii-#fg ,nothing1 in his estimation1 could equal the exquisite flavour of these two birds4 ,the luxurious ,romans1 however1 neglected the entire animal1 and thought only of the liver4 ,they invented the art of fattening this viscera1 and of increasing its size to such an extent that it often weighed two pounds4 ,to obtain this result1 they simply fed their victims of sensuality1 during twenty days1 with a paste of dried figs and water4,,xvii-#fh ,as soon as the goose was killed1 the liver was put to soak in milk and honey4 ,it is not known exactly to whom we are to attribute this gastronomic discovery4 ,scipio1 ,metellus1 and ,marcus ,sejus disputed the glory of the invention4,,xvii-#fi ,at all events1 it is certain that the same method was used in ,greece as in ,italy2 that white geese were chosen in preference1,,xvii-#gj and that the fat livers were served roasted1 or fried in the frying-pan1 and enveloped in the omentum1 a membrane which we term the caul4,,xvii-#ga ,pliny assures us that ,apicius found means to increase livers to a monstrous size1,,xvii-#gb which almost equalled in weight the whole body of the animal4,,xvii-#gc ,the wings and neck of the goose also acquired some favour2 the feet were added1 when ,messalinus had taught how to peel them by passing them rapidly over the fire1 and then preparing them with cocks' combs4 ,the remainder was only good for the common people4,,xvii-#gd ,stuffed goslings also enjoyed a reputation among the ,greeks1,,xvii-#ge who fattened them by giving them1 three times a day1 during a month1 a mixture of bran and flour1 moistened with hot water 7two parts of flour and four parts of bran72 but1 if ,palladius is to be believed1 it is much better to feed them solely with millet1 and as much water as they may require4,,xvii-#gf ,sejus ,seasoning4--,bruise pepper1 alisander1 coriander1 mint1 and rue2 mix with it garum and a little oil2 pour it over the roast goose1 and serve4,,xvii-#gg ,apician ,seasoning for a ,roast ,goose's ,liver4--,crush in a mortar1 and then well mix1 pepper1 carrots1 cummin1 parsley-seed1 thyme1 onions1 benzoin root1 and fried pine nuts2 add honey1 vinegar1 garum1 and oil1 and serve with the roast liver in the omentum4,,xvii-#gh ,boiled ,goose la ,gauloise4--,boil a goose with garum1 oil1 wine1 a bunch of leeks1 coriander1 and savory2 then crush pepper and pine nuts1 to which put a little water4 ,then take the leeks1 coriander1 and savory out of the saucepan2 put in their place the mixture mentioned1 add some milk1 boil it1 thicken with whites of eggs1 and serve4,,xvii-#gi ,in the sixteenth century they had dark cages1 in which they fattened poultry with ground tares1 wheaten flour1 and barley meal4 ,capons fattened in hutches1 where they could not turn1 nor even stir1 were esteemed delicious4 ,they fed pigeons on the crumb of bread1 steeped in wine2 peacocks on the sediment from cider4 ,on ,michaelmas ,day1 the #bith of ,september1 many persons in ,england eat roast goose for their dinner4 ,it is said that this custom dates from the time of ,queen ,elizabeth1 who was being served with a piece of goose on ,michaelmas ,day1 at the very moment when news was brought of the defeat of the famous ,armada4 ,some persons affirm that the ,queen expressed a desire that this dish might1 each year1 serve to perpetuate the remembrance of so signal a victory4 ,would it not be more simple to suppose that ,elizabeth herself already conformed to a custom which had existed before her time8,,xvii-#hj ,at ,mans1 instead of letting the poultry eat freely1 they are shut up in a dark place1 and made to swallow pellets of about two inches long and one thick1 composed of two parts of barley flour1 and one of maize1 made with sufficient quantity of milk4 8,in the time when the ,french had a decided taste for spices and aromatics1 they imagined to vary at will the flavour and perfume of the flesh of fowls4 ,with the paste used to fatten them was mixed musk1 anise-seed1 and comfits1 with other aromatic drugs4 ,a ,queen was known to spend #a1ejj francs 7#fj7 in fattening three geese1 whose livers she wished to render more delicate40--,,parmentier4 ,,the ,,pigeon4 ,the dove1 a bird so dear to ,venus1,,xvii-#ha served ambrosia to ,jupiter1,,xvii-#hb and became the interpreter of ,dodona's oracles4,,xvii-#hc ,several nations consecrated it to their gods4,,xvii-#hd ,the ,jews discovered in it the image of the sweetest virtues1,,xvii-#he of beauty1 innocence1 and purity2,,xvii-#hf and they sacrificed it to the ,almighty1 as a burnt offering agreeable to ,his unspeakable holiness4,,xvii-#hg ,this was because the dove or pigeon 7begging pardon1 here1 for mixing varieties7 is to the hawk1 according to an expression of a father of the ,church1 what the lamb is to the wolf1,,xvii-#hh--;a symbol of good by the side of evil1 or of a calm and peaceful conscience1 as opposed to the sad and agitated criminal4 ,but1 alas6 the ancient prerogatives of this tender bird1 its candour and innocence1 could not even preserve it from the fate common to almost everything which breathes4 ,its delicate flesh--fatal gift of ,heaven6--recommended it to the epicure2 not for its poetical qualities1 but for its delicate flavour2 and1 after many songs of praise1 it was condemned to be roasted4 ,from the beginning of the heroic ages1 pigeons were caught with snares and nets1,,xvii-#hi in order to feed them1 and be able to procure some at once1 if required to be served at a repast2 for they formed a dainty dish upon the tables of the most fastidious4,,xvii-#ij ,of course they figured in the joyous wedding feast of that opulent ,caranus who entertained his guests so sumptuously4,,xvii-#ia ,the ,greeks1 therefore1 used to bring up an immense number of pigeons1 and built for them1 in the most open situations1 charming pigeon-houses1 in the form of small towers1 models of elegance and cleanliness1 where those timid birds found at night a retreat1 always fatal to some one amongst them4,,xvii-#ib ,the ,romans introduced in these sorts of edifices the most unusual luxury4,,xvii-#ic ,each kind of pigeon had a particular home,,xvii-#id--;a foolish and expensive taste1 which they continually attempted to embellish4 ,it was1 however1 a profitable speculation for those who knew how to be satisfied with pigeon-houses of more simple appearance4 ,a brace of rather ordinary pigeons did not cost less than #afs43 the finest were sold at #d a pair4 ,it is even known that ,l4 ,axius1 a ,roman knight1 demanded and obtained #f #hs4 for two young pigeons intended for a patrician's table4,,xvii-#ie ,physicians of that period greatly praised the flesh of these birds2 they recommended it to the sick and convalescent4,,xvii-#if ,roast ,pigeon1 with ,servilian ,seasoning4--,bruise some dill seeds1 dried mint1 and the root of benzoin2 add some vinegar1 dates1 garum1 a little mustard1 and oil2 stir well2 then mix with it some wine reduced to half1 and pour the whole on the roasted pigeon4,,xvii-#ig ,,the ,,guinea ,,hen4 ,this bird1 called by the ancients the 8,hen of ,numidia10 comes originally from many burning regions of ,africa4 ,in ,greece1 and especially in ,rome1 vanity alone gave it a price which was willingly granted1 more on account of its scarcity than for its taste4,,xvii-#ih ,the ,guinea hen appeared at great banquets1 when the ,amphytrion was more anxious to show his opulence than to demonstrate the delicacy of his dishes4 ,martial1,,xvii-#ii and ,pliny1,,xvii-#ajj the naturalist1 raised great objections against this ostentatious and useless rarity4 ,guinea ,hen la ,numide4--,cook it2 then put it in a saucepan with some honey and garum2 make several incisions in the bird2 baste it with its own gravy1 and sprinkle with pepper previously to its being served4,,xvii-#aja ,,the ,,turkey ,,hen4 8,there must be two to eat a truffled turkey10 said a gastronomist of the #ahth century1 to one of his friends--a noted gourmand--who had just come to pay him a visit4 8,two60 replied the visitor1 with a smile of sensuality4 8,yes1 two10 answered the first2 8,i never do otherwise3 for instance1 ,i have a turkey to-day1 and of course we must be two40 ,the friend1 looking earnestly at the other1 said3 8,you1 and who else80 8,why10 answered the gastronomist1 8,i and the turkey40 ,in ,greece1 more than one stomach would have been capable of challenging nobly the voracity of this modern polyphagus3 witness the insatiable greediness of the well-known glutton who complained that nature ought to have given him a neck as long as the stork1 that he might enjoy for a longer period his eating and drinking4,,xvii-#ajb ,but for a long time the ,greeks were quite ignorant of the culinary value of the turkey2 it was looked upon as an uncommon curiosity1 and not condemned to the spit4 ,sophocles1 the first who spoke of it1 pretended that those marvellous birds came purposely from some distant climate beyond the ,indies1 to bewail the death of ,meleager1 who took possession of the throne of ,macedonia 7#bgi years ,b4,c471 and who was soon driven from it4,,xvii-#ajc ,this ,prince1 it is reported1 carried them away from barbarous regions1 that they might enjoy the charms of ,greek civilization2 and hence could there be anything more natural than to find those compassionate volatiles shedding tears for their benefactor1 in one of ,sophocles' tragedies8 ,they have been called since1 ,meleagrides1 and this name perpetuated 8misfortune1 favour1 and gratitude40 ,aristotle hardly supplies us with any details upon turkey hens3 he merely says that their eggs are distinguished by little specks from those of the common hens1 which are white2,,xvii-#ajd but ,clytus of ,miletus1 his disciple1 gives an exact description of them1 by which no mistake can be made4,,xvii-#aje ,egypt also possessed some of these birds2 but there they were still more rare than in ,greece1 and formed one of the principal ornaments in the triumphal pomp of ,ptolemy ,philadelphus1 when he entered ,alexandria4 ,large cages1 containing meleagrides1 were carried before the monarch1 and on that day the people knew not which to admire most--the prince or the turkey4,,xvii-#ajf ,they were introduced into ,rome about the year #aae before our era2 but1 for a long time1 they were objects of uncommon curiosity3 and ,varro1 the first of the ,latins who speaks of them1 confounds these birds with the guinea hens1 or hens of ,numidia4,,xvii-#ajg ,a century later1 turkeys greatly multiplied1 and vast numbers were reared in the ,roman farms4 ,caligula1 who had the good sense to make his own apotheosis during his life-time1 through fear lest it might be refused after his death1 ordered a sacrifice of peacocks1 guinea hens1 and turkeys to be made daily before his statue4,,xvii-#ajh ,it appears1 however1 that the breed of turkeys soon began to diminish in ,europe2 very few were reared1 and that only as a curiosity3 in the citadel of ,athens1 towards the year #edj of the ,christian era2,,xvii-#aji and in #aeaj1 two were exhibited in ,rome1 which belonged to the ,cardinal of ,saint ,clement4,,xvii-#aaj ,jacques ,cur brought some meleagrides from ,india1 in #adej2 they were the first ever seen in ,france1 and it was not till fifty-four years afterwards that ,americus ,vespucius made them known to the ,portuguese4 ,in our days these ancient inhabitants of ,asia or ,america,,xvii-#aaa have become naturalized among us1 and let us hope that the day is yet distant when they will be absentees from our farm-yards and our tables4 ,we admire them less perhaps than ,charles ,,ix4 did when a turkey was served to him for the first time1,,xvii-#aab but we shall always receive with cheerfulness the majestic dish upon which appears a well-fed turkey1 truffled1 and smoking hot4 ,turkey l',africaine4--,roast a turkey2 bruise some pepper1 alisander1 and benzoin2 mix it with wine and garum4 ,pour this seasoning on the turkey1 sprinkle with pepper1 and serve4,,xvii-#aac ,the historian of ,provence1 ,bouche1 will have it that the ,french are indebted for the turkey to ,king ,ren1 who died in #adhj4 ,other writers assure us that this volatile was introduced during the reign of ,francis ,i4 by ,admiral ,chabert4 ,la-,bruyre-,champier speaks of it as a recent acquisition1 and ,beckmann refutes those who date its existence in ,france previous to the #afth century4 ,he says that this bird1 which was wild in the forests of ,america1 became domesticated in ,europe4 ,it is also said that we owe the importation of it to the ,jesuits4 ,according to ,hurtaut1 it was not until about the time of ,charles ,,ix4 that turkeys appeared in ,france4,,xvii-#aad ,it is asserted1 adds this author1 that at the wedding-dinner of that ,prince the first turkey was served1 and that it was admired as a very extraordinary thing4 ,the ,english tasted this new dish in #aebe1 the fifteenth year of the reign of ,henry ,,viii4 ,to fatten turkeys--every morning1 for a month1 give them mashed potatoes1 mixed with buck-wheat flour1 ,indian corn1 barley1 or beans2 a paste is made of it which they are left to eat as they please4 ,every evening what remains must be taken away4 ,one month after1 you add to this food1 when they go to roost1 half a dozen balls composed of barley floor1 which they are made to swallow for eight days successively2 at the end of that time turkeys1 thus fed1 become excessively fat1 delicious1 and weigh from twenty to twenty-five pounds4 ,in ,provence1 walnuts are given to them whole1 which they are compelled to swallow by slipping them one by one with the hand along the neck until they have all past the sophagus2 they begin with one walnut1 and increase by degrees to forty4 ,this kind of food gives an oily taste to the flesh4 ,turkey eggs are good boiled1 and are preferred to those of hens for pastry2 mixing them with the common eggs makes an omelette more delicate4 8,to obtain all the advantages possible from turkeys1 they must be killed at the same time as pigs2 then cut the turkeys in quarters1 and put them in earthen pots covered over with the fat of the pork1 and by this means they may be eaten all the year round40--,,parmentier4 ,,the ,,peacock4 ,the peacock comes originally from ,india3 it was there that ,alexander the ,great saw it for the first time4 ,he was so struck with its magnificent plumage that he forbad all persons1 under pain of death1 to kill any4,,xvii-#aae ,oriental princes kept the peacocks which travellers brought them1 from time to time1 in their aviaries4,,xvii-#aaf ,it was thus,,xvii-#aag that a certain king of ,egypt received one1 of which he thought ,jupiter alone worthy2 wherefore he sent it in great pomp to the temple of that god4,,xvii-#aah ,these birds were thus known over various parts of the world4 ,samos1 which seems to have been provided one of the first1 ornamented its money with their image4,,xvii-#aai ,their reputation soon spread far and wide2,,xvii-#abj and ,athenian speculators sent to that island for peacocks1 which were shown to the curious once a month4,,xvii-#aba ,this variety became afterwards an article of commerce1 and all wealthy people became desirous to have them4 ,a male and female cost #h sterling4,,xvii-#abb ,but what was that1 when delighted eyes could contemplate the charming and lovely colours of the haughty favourite of ,juno6 ,at ,rome1 the peacock had a prodigious success4,,xvii-#abc ,when alive1 the ,romans praised its beauty2 when dead1 it appeared on the tables of its enthusiastic admirers4 ,quintus ,hortensius1 the orator1 was the first who had them served in a banquet given by him on the occasion of being created an augur4,,xvii-#abd ,this gastronomic novelty made an extraordinary sensation at ,rome--as might be expected--and the peacock became so much in fashion1 that no banquet could possibly be given unless it was embellished by its presence4,,xvii-#abe ,marcus ,aufidius ,livio was the first to contrive a sure way to fatten them2,,xvii-#abf and he succeeded so well that he made prodigious sums every year by the sale of those birds4,j ,horace preferred them to the finest poultry1,,xvii-#abg and distinguished amateurs thought that it was not paying much for a young peacock if they could get it for two pounds and three shillings4,,xvii-#abh ,the ridiculous consumption which was made of these birds did not allow of their becoming very common4 ,tiberius reared some in his gardens2 and he condemned to capital punishment a soldier of his guards who had the misfortune to kill one4,,xvii-#abi ,ultimately1 more savoury or more rare dishes took the place of peacocks' flesh1 which then began to be thought hard1 unwholesome1 and of difficult digestion4,,xvii-#acj ,however1 it re-appeared in the middle ages at the nuptial festivities of the rich1 where one of these birds was served1 as if alive1 with the beak and claws gilded4 ,to do that well1 it was necessary to skin the bird very carefully1 and then cook it with aromatics1 such as cinnamon1 cloves1 c4 ,it was then covered with its skin and feathers1 and served without any appearance of having been stripped4 ,this luxury was to gratify the sight3 nobody touched it4 ,the peacock was thus preserved for several years without being damaged--a property believed to be peculiar to its flesh1,,xvii-#aca but which was owing1 no doubt1 to the aromatics just mentioned4 ,peacock of ,samos4--,mix some pepper1 alisander1 parsley1 dill flowers1 dried mint1 and filberts1 or fried almonds2 bruise them with green smallage,k and pennyroyal1 and mix the whole with wine1 honey1 vinegar1 and garum4 ,make incisions in the bird1 and cover it with this seasoning4,,xvii-#acb ,,xviii4 ,,milk1 ,,butter1 ,,cheese1 ,,and ,,eggs4 ,,milk4 ,it would1 probably1 be impossible to trace the epoch at which man began to make use of milk as food4 ,abraham presented some to the three angels who appeared to him in the valley of ,mamre2,,xviii-#a and it is likely1 that long before that patriarch1 the eastern nations had recourse to an aliment so easily acquired1 and which their numerous flocks produced in such abundance4 ,among the ,jews1 milk was always considered as an emblem of the wealth of a country and the fertility of its soil2 so much so1 that the sacred books almost invariably speak of a happy region1 as one 8flowing with milk and honey40,,xviii-#b ,this metaphorical expression testifies sufficiently to the taste of the ,hebrews for this aliment1 which their ,king ,solomon recommended to them in these terms3 8and thou shalt have goat's milk enough for thy food1 for the food of thy household1 and for the maintenance of thy maidens40,,xviii-#c ,profane antiquity agrees on this point with our holy chroniclers4 ,it represents to us the first men1 free from passions and fears1 surrounded by streams of milk and nectar1 from which they drew health and life4,,xviii-#d ,happy time6 ere milk-maids existed to practise those deceptions they have now imbibed from the deceitful arts of chemistry4 ,the greater part of the wandering tribes1 such as the ,getes and ,scythians1 were galactophagists1,,xviii-#e or drinkers of milk2,,xviii-#f the ,gauls,,xviii-#g and ,germans,,xviii-#h made it also their principal food4 ,in ,greece and ,italy1 the shepherds decorated the vessels in which they had just milked their flocks with crowns of flowers2 and1 in honour of the rural divinities1 they scattered about a small quantity of this sweet liquid4,,xviii-#i ,the reapers offered it to ,ceres2,,xviii-#aj and in one of the sections of ,rome1 ,mercury was presented with milk instead of wine4 ,the ancients attributed to milk from cows1 ewes1 and goats1 various ,hygeian qualities4,,xviii-#aa ,hippocrates forbade it in cases of head-ache1 fevers1 and bilious attacks2,,xviii-#ab but he sometimes ordered asses' milk1,,xviii-#ac which was considered as an excellent remedy1 and a most wholesome aliment4,,xviii-#ad ,the voluptuous people of ,rome rubbed their faces and skins with bread soaked in asses' milk1 to make them fairer and prevent the beard from growing too fast4 ,suetonius,,xviii-#ae and ,martial,,xviii-#af speak of these refinements of luxurious delicacies4 ,the satirical ,juvenal informs us that bread was made into a kind of plaster or mask1 with which they covered the face4,,xviii-#ag ,poppia1 wife of ,nero1 was the first1 or one of the first1 to bring this recipe into fashion1 being fully persuaded that she would thus preserve the whiteness and delicacy of her skin4 ,five hundred asses used to supply daily the necessary quantity of milk to make the cosmetic and bath,,xviii-#ah of the coquettish empress4 ,this high patronage did not prevent asses' milk from losing by degrees--and very unjustly1 no doubt--the reputation it acquired4,,xviii-#ai ,fashion--capricious and all-powerful deity--undertook to re-instate its virtues1 after several centuries of profound forgetfulness4 ,the success was complete4 ,this is how the affair took place3-- ,francis ,i41 finding himself weak and languishing1 the physicians1 after a long consultation on the monarch's illness1 advised remedies which did not cure the royal patient4 ,however1 the ,king of ,france was getting worse every day1 and his state gave serious apprehensions4 ,some one mentioning to his ,majesty that a ,jew of ,constantinople was noted as one of the cleverest doctors in the world1 ,francis immediately ordered his ambassador in ,turkey to send him this ,israelitish doctor1 whatever might be the cost4 ,the ,jew arrived1 and prescribed no other remedy than asses' milk4 ,the king found himself much better1 and the courtiers and ladies of the court eagerly followed the same diet1 even for the slightest imaginary indisposition4 ,a patient1 cured by the use of this wholesome and restorative food1 thought of expressing his gratitude by the following stanza3-- 8,par sa bont1 par sa substance ,d'une nesse le lait m'a rendu la sant2 ,et je dois plus en cette circonstance1 ,aux nes qu' la facult40 ,macdoine ,germanique of ,milk4--,pound dry almonds1 and put them into a stewpan with the following ingredients3--the most delicate parts of mallows only1 and white-beet1 some leeks1 parsley1 and other leguminous herbs1 previously cooked1 a fowl boiled and minced small1 the brains of poultry or sucking pigs1 also boiled1 and lastly1 some hard eggs cut in two4 ,put all these together1 as mentioned before2 some little time after that1 add sausage meat1 fowls' livers1 fresh cod fish1 and oysters--the whole reduced into pulp--some fresh cheese1 pine nuts1 and whole pepper4 ,whilst this is boiling on a very slow fire1 prepare the following seasoning3 pound some pepper1 alisander1 parsley seeds1 and silphium2 stew separately with gravy2 mix raw eggs with a great quantity of milk2 add it to the preceding seasoning2 pour it over the contents of the stewpan1 then pepper1 and serve4,,xviii-#bj ,,butter4 ,a learned writer,,xviii-#ba has maintained that the ancient inhabitants of the east did not know of butter1 and that by this word must be understood1 when it occurs in the holy writings1 sour milk or cream4 ,whatever may be the respect due to the grave authority of ,beckmann1 we beg leave to adhere to the opinion of various translators of the ,bible1 and believe with them that the ,jews knew how to prepare butter4 ,independently of the signification of chemack1 to which a profound philosopher gives the same sense1,,xviii-#bb and which appears very naturally to offer this acceptation1 we could still fortify our opinion by the passage where ,job1 recalling with sorrow the happy days of his youth1 says1 that he used to wash his 8feet in butter40,,xviii-#bc ,we agree that these words are understood in a figurative sense1 and that the man of ,god wished to show by it that he was the possessor of a great number of flocks4 ,but it is nevertheless true1 that this metaphorical locution recalls also one of the uses made of that fat substance1 which was for a long while employed1 like oil1 to soften and refresh the limbs4 ,indulgent reader1 excuse this episode upon a ground which we ought not to touch1 and let us re-enter the kitchen4 ,the ,greeks1 who understood many things1 and knew them so well1 passed over several centuries without once thinking that the milk of their ewes and cows contained a food already well-known by several barbarous nations4 ,aristotle mentions the serous part of milk1 and cheese2,,xviii-#bd but he hardly suspects the existence of butter1 which he describes but very imperfectly as a liquid oil4,,xviii-#be ,antecedent to him1 ,hippocrates never thought of it1 except as a foreign remedy which ,asia supplied to ,greece4,,xviii-#bf ,it was only fifty years after ,aristotle that it began to be noticed as an aliment4 ,the ,greeks1 in imitation of the ,parthians and ,scythians1 who used to send it to them1 had it served upon their tables1 and called it at first 8oil of milk10,,xviii-#bg and later1 bouturos1 8cow cheese10 probably on account of the quantity made from the milk of that animal4,,xviii-#bh ,the ,germans1 according to ,beckmann1 taught the ,romans how to make butter1 but they never employed it otherwise than as a remedy in ,italy4 ,it is certain that in the time of ,pliny it had hardly been heard of at ,rome1,,xviii-#bi and that1 according to this writer1 the barbarians only--that is to say1 those who were unfortunate enough not to be either ,greeks or ,romans--made their food of it4,,xviii-#cj ,towards the year #age of the ,christian era1 ,galen then placed butter only among the therapeutic agents useful in medicine4,,xviii-#ca ,however1 more than a century before him1 ,dioscorides wished it to be noticed that fresh butter made of ewes' or goats' milk was served at meals instead of oil1 and that it took the place of fat in making pastry4,,xviii-#cb ,herodotus has preserved some interesting details on the manipulation of butter among the ,scythians4 ,they received the milk in large pails1 and beat it for a long time to separate the most delicate part1 and appointed for this labour those enemies whom the fortune of war delivered into their hands4 ,these unhappy creatures were deprived of sight1 which prevented their escape4,,xviii-#cc ,the ,romans set about making butter as we do4 ,pliny says3 8,butter is made from milk1 and this aliment1 so much sought after by barbarous nations1 distinguished the rich from the common people4 ,it is obtained principally from cows' milk2 that from ewes is the fattest4 ,goats also supply some4 ,it is produced by agitating the milk in long vessels with a narrow opening4 ,a little water is added40,,xviii-#cd ,formerly it was required in many countries that the dealer in this article should sell good butter to his customers4 ,in ,france1 for instance1 intolerance was carried so far as to forbid 8all persons to re-scrape1 beat1 or work up any butter1 either fresh or salted2 change1 mix1 or mingle it1 under pain of being whipped40,,xviii-#ce ,since then the strangeness of such a measure has become palpable1 the more so as modern good faith and honesty render it more useless than ever4 ,during the early ages of the ,church1 butter was burned in the lamps instead of oil4 ,this practice is still continued in ,abyssinia4,,xviii-#cf ,the cathedral of ,rouen has a tower1 called the 8,butter ,tower40 ,it acquired this name from the fact that ,george d',amboise1 who was archbishop of that city in #aejj1 seeing that oil was scarce in his diocese during ,lent1 authorised the use of butter1 on condition that each diocesan should pay six deniers ,tournois 7about a farthing7 for the permission4 ,the money obtained by these means served to construct the 8,butter ,tower40,,xviii-#cg ,to obtain butter instantly it is only necessary1 in summer1 to put new milk into bottles some hours after it has been taken from the cow1 and shake it briskly4 ,the clots which form1 thrown into a sieve1 washed and pressed together1 constitute the finest and most delicate butter that can possibly be made4 ,one of the great means of preserving butter fresh for any length of time is1 first to press all the buttermilk completely out1 then to keep it under water 7renewing the water frequently71 and to abstract it from the influence of heat and air by wrapping it in a wet cloth4 ,when butter has become very rancid1 it is melted several times by a moderate heat1 with or without the addition of water1 and1 as soon as it has been malaxated1 after the cooling1 in order to extract any water it may have retained1 it is put into brown freestone pots1 sheltered from the contact of the air4 ,frequently1 when it is melted1 a piece of toasted bread is put into it1 which acts in the same manner as charcoal2 that is to say1 it attenuates the rancidity4,,xviii-#ch ,,cheese4 ,a demi-god1 ,aristus1 the son of ,apollo1 and ,king of ,arcadia1 invented cheese1,,xviii-#ci and the whole of ,greece welcomed with gratitude this royal and almost divine present4 ,sober individuals willingly ate some at their meals2,,xviii-#dj gluttons perceived that it sharpened the appetite2 and great drinkers that it provoked copious libations4 ,thus the aged ,nestor1 wise as he was1 brought wine to ,machaon1 who had just been wounded in the right arm1 and did not fail to add to it goat cheese and an onion1 to force him to drink more4,,xviii-#da ,this food was also well known to the ,hebrews1 and the holy writings sometimes mention it4,,xviii-#db ,mare's milk1 or that of the ass1 makes an excellent cheese1 but much inferior to that procured from the camel1 for which an epicure could not pay too dearly4 ,cow-milk cheese1 although more fat and unctuous1 was only considered as third-rate4,,xviii-#dc ,the ,phrygians made exquisite cheese by artistically mixing the milk of asses and mares4 ,the ,scythians only employed the former2 the ,greeks imitated them4,,xviii-#dd ,the ,sicilians also mixed the milk of goats and ewes4,,xviii-#de ,the ,romans smoked their cheeses1 to give them a sharp taste2 they possessed public places expressly for this use1 and subject to police regulations which no one could evade4,,xviii-#df ,in the time of ,pliny1 little goat cheeses1 which were much esteemed1 were sent every morning to the market for the sale of dainties1 from the environs of ,rome4,,xviii-#dg ,with the addition of a little bread1 they formed the breakfast of sober and delicate persons4 ,asia ,minor1 ,tuscany1 the ,alps1 ,gaul1 and ,nmes especially1 furnished very good ones for the tables of the ,romans1,,xviii-#dh who sought in preference certain sweet and soft qualities4 ,the greater part of barbarous nations esteemed only the strong cheese4,,xviii-#di ,the ,hebrews1 ,greeks1 and ,romans1 always kept some of these last for the provision of their armies1 and it was among them a military aliment4,,xviii-#ej ,the ,athenians fed their wrestlers with it1,,xviii-#ea and it was the sole treat of the shepherds of ,italy4,,xviii-#eb ,the lower classes and country people prepared with cheese and various salted substances a dish they thought most relishing1 and which epicureans only mentioned with horror4 ,this was called tyrotarichus1 and ,cicero often employs this word to designate a frugal style of cookery4,,xviii-#ec ,besides those countries celebrated for the goodness of cheeses already mentioned1 there is ,tromelia1 in ,achaia1,,xviii-#ed and the ,island of ,cythnus1 where they represented their cheeses on their money1 an ingenious manner of making them known1 which succeeded wonderfully well2 and lastly1 ,salonia1 a city of ,bithynia1 renowned for its rich pastures1 where numerous herds of cows were kept1 and whose milk furnished an exquisite kind known by the name of ,salonite cheese4,,xviii-#ee ,it appears to have been often served to the ,emperor ,augustus1 who ate it with brown bread1 little fish1 and fresh figs4,,xviii-#ef ,the art of giving a relish to the cheese1 by mixing with it odoriferous herbs1 is said to be more than nine hundred years old4 ,this operation was designated persiller1 showing that originally parsley was introduced4,,xviii-#eg ,we cannot say whether the ,romans made use of this plant to give a pungency to their cheese1 but it is certain that they often mixed some herbs with it4,,xviii-#eh ,thus ,columella informs us that sometimes the leaves and small branches of the fig tree were used to communicate an agreeable flavour4,,xviii-#ei ,the same writer has transmitted to us a very simple process1 much in use in his time1 for preserving cheese4 ,they first covered it with brine1 and then dried it in a thick smoke obtained from straw or green wood4,,xviii-#fj ,the following are some of the dishes of which cheese served as the basis3-- ,salad of ,cheese la ,bithynienne4--,cut some slices of excellent bread2 leave them for some time in vinegar and water2 then make a mixture of this bread with pepper1 mint1 garlic1 and green coriander2 throw on it a good quantity of cow's cheese salted2 add water1 oil1 and wine4,,xviii-#fa ,dish of ,tromelian ,cheese4--,take fresh cheese2 mix it well with pepper1 alisander1 dried mint1 pine nuts1 sun raisins1 and dates2 then add honey1 vinegar1 and afterwards1 garum1 oil1 wine1 and cooked wine4,,xviii-#fb ,the celebrated cheese of ,rouergue1 known under the name of 8,roquefort cheese10 was made1 in the #agth century as follows--we cite from ,marcorelle3-- 8,the curd employed is made from sheep's milk1 mixed with a little goat's milk4 ,it is broken as small as possible4 ,when it is taken from the moulds1 it is bound with a linen band and taken to the drying room2 then to the caves1 where it is rubbed with salt on the two flat sides of the surface4 ,the downy substance which subsequently covers the crust is frequently scraped off2 after which1 it is left to ripen on tablets exposed to currents of air which proceed from the interstices of the rocks in which the caves are formed40 ,besides salt1 employed as a seasoning and condiment for cheeses1 they contain in their composition different substances which give rise to an infinite variety of odours1 taste1 and colour4 ,in the ,vosges1 for example1 they mix with the cheese of ,gerardmer seeds of plants belonging to the family of umbellifers2 in the country of ,limburg1 they incorporate chopped parsley1 scallions1 and tarragon2 the ,italians make use of saffron to colour the ,parmesan cheese1 and the ,english of roucou for the ,cheshire cheese4 ,others are in the habit of cutting away a portion of the middle of the cheese1 and filling the cavity with ,malaga or ,canary wine4,,xviii-#fc ,,eggs4 ,orpheus1 ,pythagoras1 and their sectators--good and humane people as ever lived--unceasingly recommended in their discourses to abstain from eggs1 in order not to destroy a germ which nature had destined for the production of chicken4,,xviii-#fd ,many allowed themselves to be persuaded1 and would have believed it an unpardonable crime if they had eaten a tiny omelette1 or boiled eggs4 ,many of the most learned philosophers held eggs in a kind of respect approaching to veneration1 because they saw in them the emblem of the world and the four elements4 ,the shell1 they said1 represented the earth2 the white1 water2 the yolk1 fire2 and air was found under the shell4,,xviii-#fe ,in ,india and ,syria1 there was less scruple about swallowing a few eggs2 but the hens were devoutly worshipped1 because the world is indebted to them for chickens4,,xviii-#ff ,the ,greeks and ,romans1 although more reasonable1 felt1 however1 for eggs a trifling weakness not exempt from superstition4 ,they already made use of them in their sacrifices1 and carried them with great pomp in the festivals of ,ceres4,,xviii-#fg ,for them it was also a symbol of the universe1 and an expiation would not have been complete if some eggs had not been broken on the altar of the irritated gods4,,xviii-#fh ,magicians and sorcerers1 who abounded in ,rome1 established singular fables with regard to eggs4 ,livia1 the happy consort of ,nero1 being enceinte1 consulted a sorceress1 who said to her1 8warm in your bosom a new laid egg until hatched2 if a male chicken comes forth1 thank the gods1 who will grant you a son40 ,the empress followed this advice2 a cock chick came1 and the princess gave birth to ,tiberius4,,xviii-#fi ,this anecdote circulated in ,rome1 and all ladies in the same interesting situation1 imitating ,livia1 amused themselves with hatching chickens4 ,it appears that the egg played also a most important part in dreams4 ,a man having dreamed that he had eaten one1 went to consult a soothsayer1 who told him that the white signified he would soon have silver1 and the yolk that he would receive gold4 ,the fortunate dreamer really received very soon afterwards a legacy partly consisting of those two precious metals4 ,he hastened to thank the diviner1 and offered him a piece of silver4 8,this is very well for the white10 said the latter1 8but is there nought for the yolk80,,xviii-#gj ,it is not known whether the heir was generous enough to understand this bon mot4 ,all these pagan follies are to be accounted for by the doctrine of the poet ,orpheus1 who first taught the ,greeks that a primitive egg had produced all other beings2,,xviii-#ga a very ancient idea1 no doubt1 transmitted to them by the ,egyptians1 who1 as well as the ,phnicians1 ,persians1 and ,chaldeans1 represented the world by that symbol4 ,it is now time to describe eggs as an aliment4 ,the shepherds of ,egypt had a singular manner of cooking them without the aid of fire3 they placed them in a sling1 which they turned so rapidly that the friction of the air heated them to the exact point required for use4,,xviii-#gb ,in ,rome and in ,greece1 new-laid eggs were served at the beginning of a repast2,,xviii-#gc and the ,roman gourmets asserted that1 to maintain oneself in health1 8it was necessary to remain at table from the egg to the apple40,,xviii-#gd ,we have adopted the half of that proverb1 and we say every day1 this story must be taken up ab ovo4 ,the ,romans did not confine themselves to hens' eggs1 of which they preferred the long ones2,,xviii-#ge they sought those of the partridge and pheasant1 which ,galen considered the most delicate4,,xviii-#gf ,they also thought much of peacocks' eggs4 ,it was ,quintus ,hortensius who set the example of this luxury1,,xviii-#gg which1 however1 was discarded by degrees when the precious fecundity of the hens of ,adria began to be appreciated4,,xviii-#gh ,the ancients appear to have been very partial to soft-boiled eggs1 which may be sucked at once4 ,nicomachus mentions them3 8,my father10 says he1 8had left me a poor little estate2 in a few months ,i made it as round as an egg2 then1 breaking the shell1 ,i made but one gulp of it40,,xviii-#gi ,at ,rome1 this aliment was prepared in twenty different manners2 they pickled it1,,xviii-#hj cooked it in water1 on hot ashes1 on charcoal1 and in the fryingpan4 ,eggs eaten in the shell1 however1 were thought the most wholesome4,,xviii-#ha ,eggs la ,romaine4--,cook some eggs2 cut them1 and throw over a seasoning composed in the following manner4 ,bruise some pepper1 alisander1 coriander1 and rue1 to which add garum1 honey1 and a little oil4,,xviii-#hb ,hard ,eggs l',athnienne4--,cut each egg in four1 and sprinkle over garum1 oil1 and wine4,,xviii-#hc ,fried ,eggs l',epnte4--,fry some eggs2 place them in a dish1 and season with a mixture of pepper1 alisander1 pine nuts1 garum1 benzoin1 and pepper4,,xviii-#hd ,egyptian ,egg ,pudding4--,take the yolks of a good number of hard eggs2 reduce them to a paste with crushed pine nuts1 an onion1 a leek1 some gravy1 and pepper2 add a little wine and garum4 ,stuff an intestine with this pulp1 and cook4,,xviii-#he ,dish of ,eggs la ,macdonienne4--,put in a mortar some pepper1 mint1 parsley1 pennyroyal1 cheese1 and pine nuts2 when this is well crushed1 add honey1 vinegar1 fresh water1 and garum2 then a large number of yolks of eggs2 mix well with the rest2 throw the whole into a saucepan2 add bread soaked in vinegar and water1--which1 however1 must be well squeezed out--with fresh cow's-milk cheese1 cucumbers1 almonds1 chopped onions1 fowls' livers1 and garum4,,xviii-#hf ,lesbian ,eggs aux ,roses4--,pluck the leaves of some roses2 take only the whitest part1 and put them into a mortar with garum4 ,stir a long time2 add half a small glass of gravy2 stir and strain2 put into this liquor the brains of four fowls and eight scruples of ground pepper2 stir a long time2 add to it eight eggs1 half a small glass of wine1 and as much cooked wine1 and1 lastly1 a little oil4 ,grease well the inside of a dish1 pour the whole into it1 and place it over a very slow charcoal fire4 ,cook1 sprinkle with pepper1 and serve4,,xviii-#hg ,it was a custom1 common to every agricultural population throughout ,europe and ,asia1 to celebrate the new year by eating eggs2 and they formed a part of the presents made on that day4 ,care was taken to dye them different colours1 particularly red--the favourite colour of the ancients1 and of the ,celts in particular4,,xviii-#hh ,it appears that1 formerly1 people consumed an astonishing number of eggs in ,england on ,easter ,sunday4 ,we find the following article in an account of expenses for the king's household 7,edward ,i47 on the occasion of this festival3-- 8,for four hundred and a half of eggs1 eighteen pence40,,xviii-#hi ,at that epoch eggs were not so dear in ,england as they are now2 nor did kings fail to eat more of them4 ,in #aecc1 a bishop of ,paris1 authorised by a bull from the ,pope1 ,julius ,,iii41 being disposed to permit the use of eggs during ,lent1 the parliament took offence1 and prevented the execution of the episcopal mandate4 ,it is this severe abstinence from eggs during ,lent which gave rise to the custom of having a great number of them blessed on ,easter eve1 to be distributed among friends on ,easter ,sunday2 whence comes the expression1 8to give ,easter eggs40 ,pyramids of them were carried into the king's cabinet after the high mass4 ,they were gilded1 or admirably painted1 and the prince made presents of them to his courtiers4,,xviii-#ij ,,xix4 ,,hunting4 ,from the first ages of the world man has passionately loved the exercise of hunting2 the dangers he then encountered inflamed his courage4 ,it was glorious to struggle with the terrible inhabitants of the forest or the desert2 to conquer them2 to bring home their bleeding spoils2 to furnish an heroic name for the songs of poets1 and the admiration of posterity4 ,the sacred writings have handed down to us the name of the first mighty hunter before the ,lord2,,xix-#a they inform us that ,ishmael1 in the solitude of ,arabia1 became skilful in drawing the bow2,,xix-#b and that ,david1 when yet young1 dared to fight with lions and bears4,,xix-#c ,fable1 that veiled light of truth1 through which it sometimes glimmers1 caused ,hercules to be ranked with the gods when he had overthrown the lion of ,nema1 the hydra of ,lerna1 and the wild boar of ,erymanthus4,,xix-#d ,diana descended to the earth1 and pursued in the forests the timid stag4,,xix-#e ,the ,greeks raised altars to her1 and the centaur ,chiron learned of her the noble art of venery1 which he1 in his turn1 taught to illustrious disciples1 among whom are mentioned sculapius1 ,nestor1 ,theseus1 ,ulysses1 and ,achilles4,,xix-#f ,pollux trained the first hunting dogs1 and ,castor accustomed horses to follow the track of wild beasts4,,xix-#g ,from that time1 heroes1 when resting from real conquests1 sought diversion in games nearly as formidable1 and imitative of their combats1 which often placed their lives in danger4 ,ulysses1 for example1 always bore the scar of a wound inflicted by a wild boar4,,xix-#h ,the most grave philosophers1 and the most illustrious poets have bestowed praises on the chase4 ,aristotle advised young men to apply themselves to it early4,,xix-#i ,plato finds in it something divine1,,xix-#aj ,horace looks upon it as healthful exercise1 strengthening to the body1 and preparing the way for glory2,,xix-#aa and indeed1 this heroic and royal exercise,,xix-#ab always possessed irresistible attraction for the greatest men of antiquity4 ,the warriors of ,homer1,,xix-#ac ,pelopidas1,,xix-#ad ,alexander of ,macedon1,,xix-#ae ,philopmen1,,xix-#af seemed to derive from it fresh warlike ardour4 ,the ancients hunted in the open country1 in forests1 and in parks4 ,mounted on fiery steeds1 armed with javelins and long cutlasses1 or with swords and lances1,,xix-#ag they excited their indefatigable hounds1 and promised to consecrate to ,diana the stag's horns1 or the tusks of the boar1,,xix-#ah which might become their prey4 ,the ,greeks and ,romans reared hunting dogs with extreme care1 and they began to make use of them from the age of eight or ten months4,,xix-#ai ,these animals had names1 short1 sonorous1 and easy to be pronounced1 such as ,lance1 ,flower1 ,blade1 ,strength1 ,ardent1 c4,,xix-#bj ,the strongest and most courageous came from ,england and ,scotland2,,xix-#ba ,crete1 ,tuscany1 and ,umbria were the nurseries of the most expert4,,xix-#bb ,the ,gallic dogs surpassed all others by their agility and astonishing swiftness4,,xix-#bc ,females were generally preferred to the males1,,xix-#bd either because they were more docile1 or pursued the game with more ardour and persistence4 ,it may be as well to remark1 too1 in this place1 that the ,greeks thought much more of mares than of horses for chariot racing4,,xix-#be ,the dogs were always chained4 ,their liberty was only given them at the moment of starting for the chase4,,xix-#bf ,their fire and ferocity were then incredible4 ,they dashed off with fury1 and when they succeeded in coming up with their prey1 some would suffer their legs to be cut off rather than loose their hold4 ,the ,indian dogs1 trained for lion hunting1 often gave this proof of obstinate and implacable rage4,,xix-#bg ,the ancients also took game by means of pits covered over with brushwood1 in snares1,,xix-#bh with traps1,,xix-#bi and with nets2,,xix-#cj moreover1 they often made use of bows and arrows1 and understood the art of training falcons and hawks4,,xix-#ca ,eastern princes amused themselves by hunting in parks where a great number of wild beasts were kept4,,xix-#cb ,the ,romans had too much taste and money1 and too great a desire to spend it1 not to imitate this expensive and royal luxury4 ,fulvius ,hirpinus possessed a park of forty acres near ,viterbo1 in ,tuscany4 ,lucius ,lucullus1 and ,quintus ,hortensius hastened to create more beautiful ones1 and they did not fail to have a host of imitators4,,xix-#cc ,by the ,roman law1 hunting was unrestricted3,,xix-#cd only1 no person could pursue game on another's land without the owner's permission4,,xix-#ce ,besides the pleasure which this amusement afforded1 the ancients1 like ourselves1 discovered profit in it2 and the produce of their chase became one of the finest ornaments of their feasts4 ,isaac ordered his son ,esau to go out with his weapons1 his quiver and bow1 and to prepare for him savoury meat1 such as he loved 7venison74,,xix-#cf ,solomon had stags1 roebucks1 and wild oxen served on his table every day4,,xix-#cg ,cyrus1 ,king of ,persia1 ordered that venison should never be wanting at his repasts4,,xix-#ch ,is it necessary to add that it was the delight of two nations the most gastronomic in the world8--of the effeminate ,greeks1 and more especially those ,romans for whom the animals of the earth1 ocean1 and air were only to be valued in proportion to the impossibility of obtaining them in ,europe1 ,asia1 and ,africa2 an immense inheritance1 conquered by noble ancestors1 and which their degenerated sons ransacked for their satisfaction and insatiable gluttony4,,xix-#ci ,the ,english have always loved hunting--the favourite pastime of their kings4 ,alfred the ,great was not twelve years old when he had acquired the reputation of being a skilful and indefatigable hunter4,,xix-#dj ,the noble and the wealthy differed from the serfs by their singular taste for this royal diversion2 and1 in their pursuit of it1 they spared neither pains nor expense in procuring those famous dogs of pure race which the ancient ,greeks and ,romans prized so highly4 ,when ,athelstan1 ,alfred's grandson1 had subdued ,constantine ,king of ,wales1 he imposed an annual tribute4 ,the vanquished monarch had to give him gold1 silver1 cattle1 and1 which is remarkable1 a certain number of hawks1 and dogs possessing a quick scent1 and capable of unkenneling wild beasts4,,xix-#da ,edgar1 the successor of ,athelstan1 changed the tribute of money into an annual tribute of three hundred wolves' skins4,,xix-#db ,notwithstanding his great piety1 and the extreme reserve of his habits1 ,edward the ,confessor took great delight in following the hounds1 and exciting their ardour by his cries4,,xix-#dc ,king ,harold never appeared anywhere without his favourite hawk on his hand2 neither was the approach of the ,british ,nimrod announced otherwise than by the joyous barking of the royal pack4,,xix-#dd ,indeed1 at that epoch1 every person of distinction took the prince as his model1 and gave himself up1 heart and soul1 to what people are pleased to call 8the noble exercise of hunting40 ,this aristocratic taste became so extremely prevalent under the domination of the ,norman kings1 that a writer of the twelfth century has judged it with great severity4 8,in our time10 he says1 8hunting is considered as the most honourable occupation1 the most excellent virtue4 ,our nobility show more solicitude1 sacrifice more money1 and make a greater parade in favour of it1 than they would if the question were war4 ,they are more furious in the pursuit of wild beasts1 than they would be if they had to conquer the enemies of ,great ,britain4 ,as a necessary consequence1 they no longer retain any sentiment of humanity2 they have descended almost to the level of the savage animals they are in the daily habit of tracking and unkenneling40,,xix-#de ,these uncomplimentary observations of ,john of ,salisbury did not prevent ,james ,i4 from pursuing the cherished diversion of his predecessors4 ,that prince being one day at the hunt in the environs of ,bury ,st4 ,edmunds1 remarked1 among the persons composing his suite1 an opulent citizen magnificently dressed1 whose rich costume eclipsed that of the lords the most renowned at court for the elegance of their attire4 ,the king asked who the hunter was4 ,some one replied that it was ,lamb4 8,lamb1 say you80 rejoined the king1 laughing2 8,i don't know what sort of a lamb that may be2 but what ,i know well is1 that he has got a superb fleece on his back40,,xix-#df ,,the ,,stag4 ,roman ladies of the highest distinction1 arrived at that age when1 in making an estimate of life1 it is found that the largest portion belongs to the past--these ladies1 we say1 failed not to have the flesh of this animal served on their tables1 and to eat as much of it as possible4 ,perchance it had but a slight attraction for the worthy matrons1 and yet they preferred it to every other1 for this reason1 that the stag being free from maladies and infirmities--at least so it was thought--prolongs its existence far beyond the bounds which nature has assigned to other beings4,,xix-#dg ,the noble patrician ladies would not have been sorry to survive their great-grandchildren1 and they took the means which appeared to them most likely to ensure longevity4,,xix-#dh ,if the celebrated ,galen had lived in their time1 he would have told those credulous ,roman ladies1 that this kind of food could not fail to be hurtful to them2 that this indigestible and heating meat is more likely to provoke disease than to destroy its germ2 and that1 consequently1 death finds in it an auxiliary rather than an enemy4,,xix-#di ,true1 the oracle of ,pergama wrote nearly all this a century later1 and yet his medical authority was powerless to persuade1 although it may have convinced the obstinate epicureans of his period4 ,in point of fact1 whatever ,galen may say1 what dreadful accidents can a piece of stag properly cooked produce8 ,moses1 so attentive to the health of his people1 allows them the use of it2,,xix-#ej ,solomon1 the wisest of men1 ate it every day4,,xix-#ea ,do we find that the ,jewish monarch and his people were any the worse for preferring this food8 ,at ,athens1 at ,rome1 and in all ,italy1 whoever possessed the intelligence of appreciating good cheer1 took care to offer to his friends the shoulder or fillet of stag4,,xix-#eb ,nevertheless1 gastronomists by profession1 who so generously devoted their fortunes to the service of the culinary art1 abandoned the whole animal to their slaves1 and only reserved for themselves the most tender shoots of the horns4 ,these were for a long time boiled1 then cut into very small pieces1 and this strange dish1 seasoned with a mixture of pepper1 cummin1 savory1 rue1 parsley1 bay leaves1 fat1 and pine nuts1 sprinkled with vinegar1 and fried1 passed for an exquisite and dainty treat1 worthy of the most flattering praises4,,xix-#ec ,quarter of ,stag1 roast la ,nemenne4--,put into a saucepan pepper1 alisander1 carrots1 wild marjoram1 parsley seed1 benzoin root1 and fennel seed2 add garum1 wine1 cooked wine1 and a little oil4 ,boil over a slow fire1 thicken with fine flour1 pour on the roast stag1 and serve4,,xix-#ed ,shoulder of ,stag l',hortensius4--,cook in a saucepan carrots1 alisander1 with pepper and parsley seed4 ,add honey1 garum1 vinegar1 and luke-warm oil2 thicken with fine flour1 and pour this sauce on the shoulder of stag when roasted4,,xix-#ee ,fillet of ,stag la ,persane4--,roast it1 and at the moment of placing it on the table1 cover it with a seasoning of pepper1 alisander1 scallions1 wild marjoram1 onions1 and pine nuts1 previously mixed with honey1 garum1 mustard1 vinegar1 and oil4,,xix-#ef ,,the ,,roebuck4 ,the flesh of the roebuck1 according to ,galen1 has none of the bad qualities which he attributes to that of the stag4,,xix-#eg ,esculapius and ,comus for this once agreed--which very seldom happened--in praising the beneficial properties and the delicious odour of these timid quadrupeds4 ,the ,greeks thought much of the roebuck2 they obtained the best from the island of ,melos1,,xix-#eh and served them at their most sumptuous repasts4,,xix-#ei ,they were1 perhaps1 more rarely seen on ,roman tables4 ,roebuck with ,spikenard4--,pound1 in a mortar1 pepper1 parsley seed1 dry onion1 and green rue2 add spikenard1 and then honey1 vinegar1 garum1 dates1 cooked wine1 and oil2 mix well the whole1 and cover the roast with it4,,xix-#fj ,roebuck aux ,prunes4--,mix pepper1 alisander1 and parsley1 after having pounded them4 ,add to this a good quantity of ,damascus plums1 which you have soaked in hot water4 ,then add honey1 wine1 vinegar1 garum1 and a little oil2 and1 lastly1 leeks and savory4 ,serve the roebuck with this sauce4,,xix-#fa ,roebuck aux ,amandes de ,pin4--,bruise pepper1 alisander1 parsley1 and cummin2 mix with it a great quantity of fried pine nuts2 and add honey1 vinegar1 wine1 a little oil1 and garum4 ,pour it over the roebuck4,,xix-#fb ,,the ,,deer4 ,little need be said with regard to this charming animal1 whose slender and graceful form was the admiration of those who visited the parks of ,lucullus and ,hirpinus4 ,its flesh was thought to be less wholesome than that of the roebuck1 because it was found to be less succulent4,,xix-#fc ,apicius has consecrated to it four culinary recipes1 all very similar4 ,deer la ,marcellus4--,put into a saucepan pepper1 gravy1 rue1 and onions2 add honey1 garum1 cooked wine1 and a little oil4 ,boil very slowly1 thicken with flour1 and pour the whole on the deer when roasted4,,xix-#fd ,,the ,,wild ,,boar4 ,it was in the year #fc before the ,christian era3 the consul ,marcus ,tullius ,cicero had just accused and convicted ,catilina1 and ,rome1 free from present danger1 had forgotten all transitory solicitudes of the past to welcome joyous banquetings4 ,a worthy citizen1 excellent patriot1 distinguished gastronomist1 and possessor of an immense fortune1 of which he made the best use 7at least so said several choice epicures1 his habitual guests71 ,survilius ,rullus--such was his name--thought of celebrating by an extraordinary banquet the triumph of the illustrious consul1 and the deliverance of the country4 ,his cook1 a young ,sicilian slave of the greatest promise1 and whose mode of cooking a dish of sows' paps procured him one day a smile of approbation from ,lucullus1 succeeded especially in those eminent performances which command the admiration of the guests1 and give new strength to their exhausted appetites4 ,rullus sent for him1 and spoke thus3 8,recollect that in three days ,cicero will sup here3 let the feast be worthy of him who gives it40 ,the ,sicilian even surpassed himself4 ,as soon as the guests had tasted the enticing delicacies of the first course1 the hall echoed with an unanimous concert of applause1 and the proud ,amphitryon1 intoxicated with joy1 was going to ask that a crown might be presented to his beloved slave1,,xix-#fe when the cook appeared1 followed by four ,ethiopians1 who gracefully carried a silver vase of prodigious dimensions1 in the shape of a large mortar4 ,this extraordinary dish contained a wild boar2 baskets of dates were suspended to his tusks1 and charming little wild boars1 in exquisite pastry1 no doubt--for never was there a more tempting culinary exhalation--artistically surrounded the enormous animal4,,xix-#ff ,every voice was hushed2 the guests waited in silence the most profound4,,xix-#fg ,the tables of the second service were placed round the guests1 who raised themselves on the couches with greedy curiosity4 ,the blacks deposited the precious burden before another domestic1 a skilful carver1 who opened the wild boar with incredible dexterity and precision1 and presented to the astonished eyes of ,rullus and his friends a second entire animal1 and in this a third2 then came fresh delicacies1 all gradually diminishing in size1 until1 at length1 a delicious little figpecker terminated this series of strange viands1 of which ,rome1 wondering and astonished1 long preserved the gastronomic remembrance4,,xix-#fh ,man seldom prescribes to himself reasonable limits in the vast field of vanity and ostentation4 ,at first it was thought an enviable boldness to have dared to serve an entire boar of a large size4 ,every one did the same thing1 and at length it became quite common4 ,it was necessary then to do better4 ,one thought of having three at the same time2 another had four2 and soon the extravagant--and they were not few--caused eight wild boars la ,troyenne to appear at a single repast4,,xix-#fi ,the ,macedonian1 ,caranus1 a man of spirit and of merit1 placed himself at once on an eminence which baffled rivalry4 ,he invited twenty guests to his wedding1 and he had twenty wild boars served4,,xix-#gj ,it must be confessed that such magnificence rather resembles folly2 but1 alas6 has not every nation its failings8 ,besides1 the flesh of the wild boar enjoyed an astonishing reputation in ,rome and ,greece1,,xix-#ga and no one could1 with credit to himself1 receive his friends at his table without presenting them with the fashionable dish1--the animal appointed by nature to appear at banquets4,,xix-#gb ,at length1 however1 they began to tire of this enormous dish2 they divided it into three portions1 and the middle piece obtained the preference4,,xix-#gc ,ultimately they served only the fillet and head2 the latter of which was more particularly esteemed by the ,romans4,,xix-#gd ,the ,greeks tried their appetites by tasting the liver1 which was served at the first course4,,xix-#ge ,the ,romans sought to deprive the wild boar of its terrible ferocity2 they raised them on their farms1,,xix-#gf and sometimes they acquired enormous proportions4 ,these immense beasts weighed no less than a thousand pounds4,,xix-#gg ,but delicate connoisseurs had always the wisdom to prefer the dangerous inhabitant of the forest to these bloated victims of enervating domesticity1,,xix-#gh whose insipid and degenerate flavour hardly betrayed their origin4 ,the wild boar was generally served surrounded by pyramids of fruits and lettuces4,,xix-#gi ,wild ,boar la ,pompe4--,clean and salt a wild boar1 cover it with cummin2 let it remain in salt during twenty-four hours2 then roast it2 sprinkle with pepper1 and serve with a seasoning of honey1 garum1 sweet and cooked wine4,,xix-#hj ,quarter of ,wild ,boar la ,thbaine4--,cook it in sea water with bay leaves4 ,when very tender take off the skin1 and serve with salt1 mustard1 and vinegar4,,xix- ,fillet of ,wild ,boar la ,macdonienne4--,pound pepper1 alisander1 wild marjoram1 skinned myrtle leaves1 coriander1 and onions2 add honey1 wine1 garum1 and a little oil4 ,this seasoning must be submitted to a gentle fire2 thicken with flour1 and pour the whole over the wild boar as you draw it from the oven4,,xix-#hb ,wild ,boar's ,liver la ,grecque4--,fry it1 and serve with a seasoning of pepper1 cummin1 parsley seed1 mint1 thyme1 savory1 and roasted pine nuts2 to which add honey1 wine1 garum1 vinegar1 and a little oil4,,xix-#hc ,wild ,boar's ,head la ,cantabre4--,make the seasoning in the following manner3 mix well1 pepper1 alisander1 parsley seed1 mint1 thyme1 and roasted pine nuts2 add wine1 vinegar1 garum1 and a little oil2 afterwards onions and rue2 thicken with whites of eggs2 boil over a slow fire1 and stir gently4,,xix-#hd ,green ,ham of ,wild ,boar la ,gauloise4--,insert a long and narrow blade at the joint1 and carefully separate the skin from the flesh1 so that the latter may be well covered with the following seasoning3 pound pepper1 bay leaves1 rue1 and benzoin2 add to it some excellent gravy1 cooked wine1 and a little oil4 ,fill the ham1 close the opening1 and then cook it in sea water1 with some tender shoots of laurel and dill4,,xix-#he ,under the ,norman kings the wild boar's head was considered a noble dish1 worthy of the sovereign's table4 ,this1 we are told1 was brought to the king's table with the trumpeters sounding their trumpets before it in procession4 8,for10 says ,holinshed1 8upon the day of coronation 7of young ,henry71 ,king ,henry ,,ii41 his father1 served him at table as sewer1 bringing up the bore's head with trumpetes afore it1 according to the ancient manner40--,,strutt1 8,manners and ,customs10 ,vol ii41 p4 #ai4 8,a very small consumption is made of the old wild boar2 the flesh is hard1 dry1 and heavy2 the head only is good4 ,the young wild boar is a fine and delicate game1 also1 when a year old4 ,the ancients submitted those they could take away from their mother to castration1 and left them afterwards to run about the woods1 where these animals became larger than the others1 and acquired a savour and flavour which made them preferable to the pigs we rear40--,,sonnini4 ,,the ,,hare4 ,plutarch contends that the ,jews abstained from eating the hare1 not because they thought it unclean1 but because it resembled the ass1 which they revered4,,xix-#hf ,this is only a pleasantry on the part of the celebrated writer1 with no other foundation than the fabulous tale of the grammarian ,apion1 who asserts in his book against the ,jews that they preserved in ,jerusalem an ass's head1 which they adored4,,xix-#hg ,we know that a sanitary motive was the cause of this animal being interdicted to the ,israelites2,,xix-#hh and it has been also remarked that the ancient ,britons abstained from it4,,xix-#hi ,this mammifer1 everywhere very common1 swarmed in the ,east1 if we are to believe ,xenophon1 who saw a great number of them when marching with his troops to join young ,cyrus4,,xix-#ij ,greece was abundantly stocked with them3,,xix-#ia the inhabitants of islands of the gean sea had more than once to deplore the ravages which hunger caused these timid animals to commit1 and whose fecundity they cursed4 ,hegesander relates that1 under the reign of ,antigonus1 an inhabitant of the island of ,anaphe brought two hares into the neighbourhood4 ,their posterity became so numerous that the people were obliged to implore the gods to preserve the harvest1 and to annihilate their formidable enemies4 ,as the immortals turned a deaf ear to these complaints1 recourse was had to ,apollo alone1 and the ,pythonissa deigned to return this oracle3 8,train hunting dogs1 and they will exterminate the hares40,,xix-#ib ,the advice was good1 and deemed worthy of being adopted4 ,the ,greeks esteemed highly the flesh of this quadruped1 which was served roasted1 but almost bleeding1,,xix-#ic or made into delicious pies1,,xix-#id much in vogue in the time of ,aristophanes4,,xix-#ie ,hippocrates had1 however1 forbidden the use of it4 8,the hare10 said he1 8thickens the blood1 and causes cruel wakefulness20,,xix-#if but epicurism will always think lightly of ,hygeian precepts which do not accord with its own ideas4 ,at all events1 ,galen was not of the same opinion as his colleague1,,xix-#ig and ,galen must be right4 ,the ,emperor ,alexander ,severus eat a hare at each of his repasts4,,xix-#ih ,perhaps that prince shared the opinion of the ,romans1 who thought that a person who fed on hare for seven consectutive days became fresher1 fatter1 and more beautiful4 ,a lady1 named ,gellia1 had a large share of that unfortunate gift of nature which we call ugliness4 ,she resolved to make a trial of this regimen1 and submitted to it with a regularity really exemplary4 ,she showed herself at the end of the week1 and we are informed that no one thought her any the prettier for it4,,xix-#ii ,the epicures of ,rome contented themselves with eating the shoulder of the hare1 and left the remainder to less fastidious guests4,,xix-#ajj ,,the ,,rabbit4 8,the conies are but feeble folks1 yet make they their houses in the rocks40,,xix-#aja ,they taught mankind1 it is said1 the art of fortification1 mining1 and covered roads4,,xix-#ajb ,these skilful engineers come originally from warm climates2 from ,africa1 perhaps1 whence they were brought to ,spain4 ,they there became so numerous1 and dug so well their holes beneath the houses of ,tarragona1 that that city was completely overthrown1 and the greater part of the inhabitants buried beneath its ruins4,,xix-#ajc ,catullus calls ,spain ,cuniculosa ,celtiberia 7,celtiberian rabbit warren72 and two medals1 struck in the reign of ,adrian1 represent that peninsula under the form of a beautiful woman1 clothed in a robe and mantle1 with a rabbit at her feet4 ,this animal was called in ,hebrew1 ,saphan1 of which the ,phnicians have made ,spania1 and the ,latins ,hispania4,,xix-#ajd ,strabo relates that the inhabitants of the ,balearic ,islands1 despairing of being able to oppose the extraordinary propagation of rabbits1 which nearly rendered their country uninhabitable1 sent ambassadors to ,rome to implore assistance against this new kind of enemy4,,xix-#aje ,augustus furnished them with troops1 and the ,roman arms were once more victorious4,,xix-#ajf ,aristotle says nothing of the rabbit1 which1 probably1 was then little known in ,greece4 ,it afterwards became common enough1 and that of ,macedonia1 in particular1 found favour at tables renowned for delicacies4,,xix-#ajg ,the ,romans1 those bold innovators in cookery1 so desirous of strange and unheard of dishes1 would only consent to eat rabbits on condition of their being killed before they had left off sucking1 or taken alive from the slaughtered mother1 to be immediately transferred to the ardent stoves of their kitchens4,,xix-#ajh ,it was certainly reserved for that people to frighten the world by all kinds of culinary anomalies4 ,,the ,,fox4 ,a young fox1 fattened on grapes1 and roasted on the spit1 is a tidbit for a king during the autumn4,,xix-#aji ,such was the idea of the ,roman peasants2 but we must be allowed1 however1 to differ from their opinion4 ,,the ,,hedgehog4 ,the ,greeks willingly eat the hedgehog,,xix-#aaj in a ragot--a dish the ,romans never envied them4 ,,the ,,squirrel4 ,this charming little animal1 which ought never to please but when alive1 often appeared at ,rome among the most elegant dishes of the feast4,,xix-#aaa ,at first it was only eaten by caprice3 unfortunately for the little animal1 it was found to be very nice4 ,,the ,,camel4 ,aristotle gives the greatest praise to the flesh of this useful animal1 and places it without hesitation above the most delicate viands4,,xix-#aab ,the ,greeks1 his countrymen1 thought it worthy of being roasted for the table of sovereigns1,,xix-#aac and the inhabitants of ,persia and ,egypt partook of the same enthusiasm4 ,rome thought the camel fit for the solitude of the ,desert1 but not for the ornament of banquets2 and really1 for this once1 ,rome appears to have been right4 8,the flesh of the young dromedary is as good as that of veal1 and the ,arabs make of it their common food4 ,they preserve it in vases1 which they cover with fat4 ,they make butter and cheese with the milk of the female40--,,desmarest4 ,the ancients1 in their wars1 made use of dromedaries4 ,the soldiers when upon these animals formed a particular militia4 ,in the ,egyptian expedition ,bonaparte renewed this ancient custom1 and that cavalry caused a great deal of injury to the ,bedouins and ,arabs4 ,besides the rider1 each dromedary carried provisions and munitions of war4 ,,the ,,elephant4 ,certain wandering tribes of ,asia and ,africa were thought formerly to be very fond of grilled elephant4,,xix-#aad ,the ,egyptians went so far in their pursuit of this delicacy1 that the ,king ,ptolemy ,philadelphus was forced to forbid them1 under pain of the most severe laws1 to kill one of these animals1 whose number diminished every day4 ,the law was disregarded1 and the elephant only possessed greater attractions for them4,,xix-#aae ,in our days1 also1 some semi-savage nations partake of the same taste4 ,le ,vaillant1 a celebrated traveller1 and a most distinguished gastronomist1 tells us that the first time he partook of an elephant's trunk1 which was served him by the ,hottentots1 he resolved that it should not be the last2 for nothing appeared to him of a more exquisite flavour4,,xix-#aaf ,but he reserves his greatest praises for the foot of the colossal quadruped4 ,we will let him speak for himself3-- 8,they cut off the four feet of the animal1 and made in the earth a hole about three feet square4 ,this was filled with live charcoal1 and1 covering the whole with very dry wood1 a large fire was kept up during part of the night4 ,when they thought that the hole was hot enough1 it was emptied3 a ,hottentot then placed within it the four feet of the animal1 covered them with hot ashes1 and then with charcoal and small wood2 and this fire was left burning until the morning4 99 99 99 ,my servants presented me at breakfast with an elephant's foot4 ,it had considerably swelled in the cooking2 ,i could hardly recognise the shape1 but it appeared so good1 exhaled so inviting an odour1 that ,i hastened to taste it4 ,it was a dish for a king4 ,although ,i had often heard the bear's foot praised1 ,i could1 not conceive how so heavy1 so material an animal as the elephant1 could furnish a dish so fine and delicate4 99 99 99 ,and ,i devoured1 without bread1 my elephant's foot1 while my ,hottentots1 seated around me1 regaled themselves with other parts1 which they found equally delicious40,,xix-#aag ,the ,romans never evinced fondness for the flesh of the elephant4 ,this animal1 with its gigantic proportions and rare intelligence1 was found to be so amusing to the nation of kings1 when dancing on the tight rope1,,xix-#aah or in the terrible combats of the ,circus1,,xix-#aai that they hardly thought of roasting it1 or making it into fricassees4 ,we cannot1 however1 affirm that the gastronomic eccentricity of some ,roman epicure did not dream of a monstrous feast1 in which he may have offered to his guests an elephant la ,troyenne on a silver dish1 made purposely for the occasion4 ,,xx4 ,,feathered ,,game4 ,moses permitted his people to eat game1 with the exception of birds of prey and some other species whose flesh appeared to him hard and unwholesome4,,xx-#a ,the ,egyptians piously offered to their priests the most delicate birds1 which they willingly accepted1 and eat1 in order not to weaken their intelligence by the use of more simple and heavy food4,,xx-#b ,among the ,greeks1 at the commencement of the repast1 little birds were served roasted1 on which was poured a boiling sauce1 composed of scraped cheese1 oil1 vinegar1 and silphium4,,xx-#c ,feathered game appeared in ,italy only at the second course4 ,the ,romans were very partial to it1 and many epicureans1 possessing strange tastes1 found means to ruin themselves by eating pheasants and flamingoes4 ,the celebrated comedian1 sopus1 whom ,cicero thought worthy of being his master in the art of declamation1 had one day the fancy to regale himself with a dish of birds1 the whole of which1 when living1 had both learned to sing and speak4,,xx-#d ,this gluttony of a new kind cost him very dear1 and the supper of the barbarian was not any the better for it4 ,some modern nations--the ,french among others--formerly eat the heron1 crane1 crow1 stork1 swan1 cormorant1 and bittern2 the first three especially were highly esteemed1 and ,taillevant1 cook of ,charles ,,vii41 teaches us how to prepare these meagre1 tough birds4 ,belon says that1 in spite of its revolting taste when unaccustomed to it1 the bittern is1 however1 among the delicious treats of the ,french4,,xx-#e ,this writer asserts also that a falcon1 or a vulture1 either roasted or boiled1 is excellent eating2 and that if one of these birds happened to kill itself in flying after the game1 the falconer instantly cooked it4 ,liebaut calls the heron a royal viand6 ,these same men who eat vultures1 herons1 and cormorants1 did not touch young game3 they thought it indigestible2 and1 for instance1 abstained from leverets and partridges4 ,the internal parts being the first to corrupt1 the ancients carefully drew the game they wished to preserve4 ,that done1 they filled the inside with wheat or oats1 and then placed it in the midst of a heap of flour or grain1 with the feathers or hair on4 ,thus protected from the contact of the air or insects1 the game kept remarkably well4 ,,the ,,pheasant4 ,the ,argonauts discovered this magnificent bird on the shores of ,phasis1 a celebrated river of ,colchis1 and introduced it into ,greece1 where it was unknown4,,xx-#f ,this tradition1 sung by the poets1,,xx-#g has only met with one contradictor1 ,isidorus1,,xx-#h who pretends that the pheasant is a native of an island of ,greece1 called ,phasis4 ,all nations soon hastened to receive it with the favour its rich plumage and the exquisite delicacy of its flesh deserve4 ,carried in cages composed of precious wood1 it adorned the triumphal march of ,ptolemy ,philadelphus1 at his entry into ,alexandria4,,xx-#i ,ptolemy ,evergetes1 successor to that prince1 caused pheasants to be sent from ,media1 which he destined for his aviary2 and he never eat them1 so much did he dread the idea of diminishing their number4,,xx-#aj ,but1 alas6 custom and time1 those jealous enemies of the greatest glories1 eventually put an end to that4 ,the unfortunate creature was stripped of its feathers and roasted2 gluttony1 an insatiable monster that never says 8enough10 rejoiced at being able to count it among the number of its conquests4 ,the ,greeks had coops for pheasants as we have for fowls1 not to please the eye1 but to ornament the table1,,xx-#aa and a foolish prodigality caused a whole pheasant to be served to each guest in those luxurious repasts which the ,athenians gave to display their pomp and ostentatious hospitality4,,xx-#ab ,among the ,romans1 ,pliny is the first 7or we are mistaken7 who mentions this bird1 then very uncommon in ,italy1 since they went in quest of it to the banks of the ,phasis4,,xx-#ac ,its rarity did not prevent ,vitellius from having a ragot of pheasants' brains1,,xx-#ad mixed with other viands of an unheard-of delicacy1 in the immense dish called by him 8the ,shield of ,minerva40,,xx-#ae ,pertinax willingly partook of pheasant1 but on condition that they cost his miserly sensuality nothing4 ,heliogabalus would only eat them three times a week4 ,alexander ,severus reserved them for solemn occasions4,,xx-#af ,they were sacrificed each morning to the statue of ,caligula1,,xx-#ag at the foot of which the vile troop of courtiers prostrated themselves at the very time even when ,csar1 in a fit of sanguinary monomania1 wished that the ,roman people had but one neck1 that he might sever it at a blow4,,xx-#ah ,it is especially from the commencement of the #adth century that the pheasant1 better appreciated in ,europe1 has resumed in banquets that remarkable place1,,xx-#ai constantly assigned to it throughout this new era1 in which our taste maintains it1 and from which our posterity will never remove it1 if they inherit that wonderful sentiment of the good and beautiful which so eminently distinguishes the epicures of the present day4 ,let us add1 for the comfort of weak stomachs1 that the medical light of ,pergamo--the illustrious ,galen--recommends them the use of the flesh of pheasants2,,xx-#bj that he prescribed it for himself1 and found it a most delightful remedy4 8,mingrelia1 or the antique ,colchis1 is the cradle of pheasants1 that species of birds being stronger and finer there than anywhere else1 but it is seen1 however1 all over ,europe1 in ,africa1 and ,asia1 even in the cold countries of the north4 ,this beautiful bird forms an article of commerce with the ,chinese1 who sell them frozen in the market of ,kiakta40--,,sonnini4 ,,the ,,partridge4 ,the ,greeks and ,romans were acquainted with partridges1 and eat them4,,xx-#ba ,the red1 at first very rare in ,italy1 were1 however1 advantageously replaced by the white1 which true amateurs procured at a great expense from the ,alps4,,xx-#bb ,the ,athenians were fond of seeing them fight1 and raised them for this cruel sport4,,xx-#bc ,alexander ,severus also sought in these sanguinary struggles relief from the cares of royalty4,,xx-#bd ,aristippus1 a more humane1 perhaps a more luxurious1 philosopher1 gave as much as fourteen shillings for a fine fat partridge1,,xx-#be which1 passing from the aviary to the kitchen1 escaped the fatal vicissitudes of a desperate combat4 ,in ,greece1 people who knew how to enjoy life thought much of the leg of this warlike bird4,,xx-#bf ,it was fashionable not to touch any other part4 ,at ,rome1 when politeness was not of so much consequence1 they sometimes ventured on the breast4 ,we1 barbarians1 eat the entire partridge4 ,,the ,,quail4 ,the dead may be raised by the means of a quail1 said the ancients4 ,now for the proof3 ,hercules having been killed in ,lybia1 ,iolas took one of these birds1 which fortunately happened to be at hand1 and placed it beneath his friend's nose4 ,the hero no sooner smelt it than his eyes opened to the light1 and ,acheron was forced to give up his prey4,,xx-#bg ,the learned ,bochart denies this prodigy4,,xx-#bh ,he affirms that ,hercules was subject to epileptic attacks1 and that1 during a fit1 they caused him to smell a quail1 whose odour quickly cured him4,,xx-#bi ,the ,phnicians insisted that he was quite dead1 and they all cried out1 8,a miracle60,,xx-#cj ,the reader must decide between them and ,bochart4 ,in the ,desert the ,israelites fed on quails2,,xx-#ca and this food1 reserved for them by ,divine goodness1 caused no discomfort among the fugitive tribes4 ,the ,greeks served them on their tables with partridges3,,xx-#cb they raised them in aviaries1 and eat them all the year round4,,xx-#cc ,aristotle speaks most highly of them1 and does not attribute to them any dangerous property4,,xx-#cd ,however1 quails were banished from all ,roman tables3 they were no longer carefully fattened3,,xx-#ce they were cursed1 and accused of causing epilepsy in those who partook of their fatal and seductive flesh4,,xx-#cf ,the authority of ,galen confirmed this strange prejudice1,,xx-#cg and these innocent birds1 having lost all reputation in ,italy1 no doubt easily consoled themselves for the happy ostracism which delivered them from a too expensive glory4 ,at all events1 it is probable that ,rome had wickedly calumniated quails2 two skilful men1 devoted to the cause1 undertook to defend them3 they were called ,hippolochus and ,antiphanus4,,xx-#ch ,their eloquent pleadings caused a sensation2 the epicureans were moved1 and some of these birds were recalled1 fattened1 and roasted4 ,quails1 like cocks and partridges1 seem born to fight to excess4,,xx-#ci ,the ,grecians encouraged their warlike ardour1 and threw them into the arena1 where they contemplated their furious attacks with as much pleasure as they experienced at the sight of gladiators murdering each other in order to amuse them4,,xx-#dj ,solon--the wise ,solon--required that young men should be trained to courage at the school of these bold champions1 and learn from them to despise danger1 pain1 and death4,,xx-#da ,we know that sensibility was little thought of in the plan of education formed by the great legislator4 ,long after him1 however1 the ,areopagus gave a dreadful proof of this1 by condemning to death a little boy who had amused himself by pulling out the eyes of all the quails unfortunate enough to fall into his hands4 ,this precocious monster was too promising4,,xx-#db ,,the ,,thrush4 ,the immortal author of the ,iliad did not disdain1 it is said1 to compose a poem in praise of thrushes4 ,these verses were so beautiful that the ,greeks learned them all by heart in their infancy4,,xx-#dc ,the singular love of the ancients for this bird renders these poetical honours tolerably probable4 ,more than once ,comus has borrowed the lyre of ,apollo4 ,in ,greece1 children were not allowed to eat thrushes1 because it was feared that their delicious flesh might cause them to contract too early habits of gluttony and effeminacy4 ,young girls received them as presents from their betrothed on the day of their marriage4,,xx-#dd ,they were served at the most sumptuous feasts1,,xx-#de and ,attica enriched with its gold the bird-catchers of that ,daphne1,,xx-#df so celebrated for her luxury and scandalous voluptuousness4 ,rome inherited this gastronomic rage4 ,one of ,varro's aunts reared thrushes in the country1 and sold #fj1jjj of them every year1 to the numerous epicures of the metropolis of the world4 ,she derived an immense revenue from this speculation4,,xx-#dg ,magnificent aviaries were soon seen in all rich ,roman villas2 they were filled with thrushes2 and the multitude of these birds became such that they furnished a plentiful manure for the land4,,xx-#dh ,they were fed on crushed figs1 mixed with wheaten flour2 they had also millet1 add great care was taken to preserve in the aviary a current of fresh and pure water to slake their thirst4,,xx-#di ,on days of triumph and rejoicing1 a dozen of these tempting thrushes cost no less than twenty-seven shillings4,,xx-#ej ,on those solemn occasions more than one generous citizen1 consulting his prodigality more than his purse1 ruined himself,,xx-#ea for love of his guests4 ,more than one obsequious dependant spent his last sesterces in composing ingenious crowns of thrushes1,,xx-#eb which his haughty patrons deigned to receive as a homage4 ,it is true he was sometimes allowed to become a spectator of the repast which his gift was to embellish,,xx-#ec--;certainly a most flattering recompense for his gratitude and servility6 ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,ix4 ,,varro',s ,,magnificent ,,aviary4--,adjoining his villa was a part of the house called the ,ornithon1 or the ,aviary1 of which some ruins are still remaining1 between the two small rivers ,vinius and ,casinus1 but can hardly be made out4 ,more1 perhaps1 was in existence when the famous architect and antiquarian1 ,pierre ,ligorio1 drew the plan and profile more than #bjj years ago4 ,this drawing of ,plate ,,ix4 is conformable with ,varro's own description1 who says that3 8,at the entrance there are two porticoes1 or two large cages 7in the ,plate these are omitted for want of space72 they are buildings with colonnades all round1 on the top and sides there are nettings spread to prevent the escape of the birds4 ,the entrance to the yards is between the two pavilions2 two basins1 long and wide1 are alongside of the court-yard on the right and left of it2 from them you pass to the grand double colonnade1 the first circumference of which is of stone1 and the second of pine2 the distance from each other is five feet1 and the whole of this middle space is filled with birds1 which are prevented from escaping by small fillets all over the top and sides4 ,there are1 between the columns1 like a small theatre1 rails1 like steps1 put forward for the birds to perch upon4 ,there are birds of various species1 particularly singing birds1 such as nightingales and blackbirds2 a small canal supplies them with fresh water1 and they are fed from under the netting4 ,facing the pedestals of the column is a stone1 raised one foot nine inches above the quay1 and that is elevated two feet above the level of the water2 its width is five feet1 to enable the visitor to walk round4 ,at the lower part of the quay1 on the water-side1 there are holes practised where the ducks can retire4 ,in the centre of the large basin1 about #bjj feet in diameter1 is a small island1 bordered by a small colonnade1 under which ,varro treats his friends2 in the middle1 a round table1 which a servant turns on a pivot1 so that in succession the guests are supplied with dishes1 plates1 cups1 and goblets4 ,there is seen also an hemisphere1 where the star ,lucifer turns in the day1 and ,hesperus at night2 both mark the hour1 and are variable2 on the same hemisphere the winds1 to the number of eight1 are marked with a hand that is always moving as the wind changes1 the same as the clock of ,cyprestus1 at ,athena40 ,the drawing of this ,aviary is beautiful4 ,it appears that ,pierre ,ligorio followed ,varro's description2 at all events1 the drawing of this ,plate perfectly agrees with it4 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #i4 ,heliogabalus eat only the brains of these birds4,,xx-#ed ,this dish appeared to him most excellent1 for it was very costly4 ,the extreme delicacy of this volatile1 which poetical connoisseurs have celebrated in their verses1,,xx-#ee recommends it to those with weak stomachs and to convalescents4 ,pompey being ill1 his physician ordered him a thrush1 but it was impossible to find one in ,rome4 ,some one advised the celebrated general to apply to ,lucullus1 who fattened them throughout the year4 8,what10 cried ,pompey1 ill-humouredly1 8shall ,i have to thank ,lucullus's pompous luxury for life60 ,he refused to eat the thrush1 and he recovered4,,xx-#ef ,,the ,,blackbird4 ,what has been already said of the thrush precludes the necessity of writing much on the blackbird1 for both these kinds of birds were equally dear to the gastronomists of ,greece and ,italy4,,xx-#eg ,they were fattened in the same manner1,,xx-#eh served on the same tables4 ,the blackbird1 in fact1 like the thrush1 re-established the strength and health of the rich4,,xx-#ei ,the poor were compelled to have recourse to less expensive remedies4 8,the flesh of the blackbird1 so delicate in the time of gathering grapes1 acquires at that period a savour which makes it as precious as the quail1 but becomes bitter when they feed on the juniper berries1 the ivy1 or other similar fruits4 ,some medicinal properties are attributed to it2 the oil in which the blackbirds have been cooked is recommended to persons afflicted with sciatica3 and the soil of these birds1 dissolved in vinegar1 is1 we are informed1 a certain specific for removing the freckles of the face or spots on the skin40--,,vieillot4 ,in #adfh1 ,louis ,,xi4 ordered one of his authorised ruffians1 named ,perdriel1 to seize all the tame blackbirds he could find in ,paris4 ,these poor birds were sent to ,amboise1 where a register was kept of what they said or sung4 ,it appears that the king intended to punish those citizens of his capital who taught these innocent volatiles to repeat abuse of the sovereign1 after which he would have wrung the necks of the too intelligent birds4 ,louis ,,xi4 could not carry out this singular idea1 because he himself was shortly after the ,duke of ,burgundy's prisoner at ,pronne4 ,blackbirds and citizens had a narrow escape4,,xx-#fj ,,the ,,starling4 ,drusus and ,britannicus1 sons of the ,emperor ,claudius1 had a starling which spoke admirably the ,greek and ,latin4 ,alone he studied his lessons1 and afterwards recited them to the astonished princes4,,xx-#fa ,science protected the learned bird from the fate reserved by the ,greeks and ,romans for the rest of its family1 less distinguished by their erudition than by their culinary qualities4 ,starlings1 roasted in the kitchens1 honourably associated with partridges1 blackbirds1 and thrushes1,,xx-#fb and the disciples of ,galen recommended them to their patients1 who willingly submitted to so nourishing and light a food4,,xx-#fc ,,the ,,flamingo4 ,a profound study of the art of good cheer caused the ,romans to discover that the thick tongue of the phenicopter1 or flamingo1 presents towards its root a rather considerable adipose appendage4 ,they tasted this lump of fat1 and ,rome was enriched with another dish4 ,it has been asserted that the glory of inventing this refinement in gluttony is due to ,apicius4 ,italy possessed three gastrophiles of this name3 the first flourished a short time before the dictatorship of ,julius ,csar2 the second1 ,marcus ,gabius1 held a school of sensuality at ,rome1 under the reigns of ,augustus and ,tiberius2 the third1 ,clius1 was contemporary with ,trajan1 and poisoned himself for fear of dying of hunger4 ,we possess1 under the name of this last1 a ,latin work in ten books1 from which we have borrowed largely1 as the reader may have already remarked4 ,it would be difficult to decide to which of the three ,apicii it belongs4 ,the author speaks of the flamingo1 but does not mention its tongue3 the treatise1 then1 is not the work of ,m4 ,gabius1 who would doubtless have indicated the preparation of a dish of which ,pliny assures us he was so fond4,,xx-#fd ,as to ,clius1 if he were the compiler of this ,illustration3 ,pl4 #aj curious volume1 as it is thought1 how comes it he has forgotten a dish so justly celebrated1 in this magiric catalogue1 in which no detail1 however minute1 seems to escape him8 ,it would appear that this contested paternity rightfully belongs to the first ,apicius1 unless some of the learned contest it on the ground that the style of the work nowise agrees with the latinity of his century4,,xx-#fe ,may one of the learned societies of ,europe some day take up this arduous question1 and restore the ancient masterpiece to its admirable author4 ,in the meantime the writer of the present work will continue to venerate the memory of ,clius ,apicius1 and offer him crowns of smallage1 roses1 and parsley1 for his name embellishes the frontispiece of those pages which reveal to us the secrets of ,roman cookery2 and we repeat1 with ,sosie3-- 8,le vritable ,amphitryon ,est l',amphitryon o l'on dine40,,xx-#ff ,honour is due also to the other ,apicius for his ingenious sauce of flamingo tongues4 ,true1 we have never tasted it1 for this expensive fancy can only be satisfied in the marshes of the ,nile4,,xx-#fg ,it is still little known in ,europe1 but the most fastidious of the ,romans regaled themselves with it4,,xx-#fh ,three ,emperors1 ,caligula1 ,vitellius1 and ,heliogabalus--immortal triumvirate of incomparable polyphagists6--carried to indigestion their gastronomic delirium1 their love for this famous ragot4,,xx-#fi ,these great authorities are conclusive4 ,the traveller1 ,dampier1 wished to try the flesh of the flamingo1 and he thought it very good1 though lean1 and very black4,,xx-#gj 8,the flesh of the phenicopterus is a dish more sought after in ,egypt than in ,europe2 however1 ,catesby compares it for its delicacy to the partridge2 ,dampier says it has a fine flavour1 although lean2 ,dutertre finds it excellent notwithstanding its marshy taste2 the tongue is the most delicious part40--,,vieillot4 ,,fig-,,pecker1 ,,or1 ,,becafico4 ,the ,duke of ,c---- had received from nature one of those culinary organizations which the vulgar assimilate with gluttony1 and the man of art calls genius4 ,greece would have raised statues to him2 the ,roman emperor ,vitellius would have shared the ,empire with him4 ,in ,france he gained the esteem of all parties by inviting them to sumptuous banquets4 ,this rich patrician brought up with tender care a young chef de cuisine1 whom his major-domo had bequeathed to him on his death-bed1 as ,mazarin did ,colbert to ,louis ,,xiv4 ,the disciple profited by the learned lessons of the ,duke2 already the young chef's head1 eye1 and hand possessed that promptitude and certainty whose union is so rarely combined3 there remained for him only the instruction of experience4 ,one day1 in the month of ,september1 some guests of the highest class1 all professed judges in the order of epicureans1 met together at the residence of the noble ,amphitryon1 who often claimed the authority of their enlightened judgment4 ,the learned ,areopagit had to pronounce on certain new dishes3 it was necessary1 by dint of seduction1 to captivate the favour and patronage of these judges by disarming their severity4 ,everything was served to the greatest nicety1 everything was deemed exquisite1 and they only awaited the dessert--that little course which causes the emotion of the great culinary drama to be forgotten--when the young chef appeared1 and placed in the centre of the table a silver dish1 containing twelve eggs4 8,eggs60 exclaimed the ,duke4 ,the astonished guests looked at each other in silence4 ,the cook took one of the eggs1 placed it in a little china boat1 slightly broke the shell1 and begged his master to taste the contents4 ,the latter continued to remove the white envelope1 and at length discovered a savoury and perfumed ball of fat4 ,it was a fig-pecker of a golden colour--fat1 delicate1 exquisite--surrounded by a wonderful seasoning4,,xx-#ga ,the good old man cast on his pupil a look full of tenderness and pride2 and1 holding out his hand to him3 8,you are inspired by ,petronius10 said he2 8to imitate in such a manner is to create4 ,courage6 ,i am much pleased with you40 ,this classic dish--a revival from the feasts of ,trimalcio--enjoyed only an ephemeral glory4 ,europe was on fire2 a warlike fever raged everywhere2 and ,paris soon forgot the eggs of ,petronius4 ,the fig-pecker merits the attention of the most serious gastronomists4 ,the ancients reckoned it among the most refined of dishes4,,xx-#gb ,the ,greeks made delicate pies of this bird1 which exhaled an odour so tempting1 that criticism was disarmed beforehand4,,xx-#gc ,the ,romans gave it their entire esteem1,,xx-#gd and prepared it with truffles and mushrooms4,,xx-#ge ,among them1 men who knew what good cheer means1 thought there was nothing worth eating in birds but the leg and lower part of the body4 ,fig-peckers were the only exception to this rule3 they were served and eaten entire4 8,in the southerly parts of ,france1 and in ,italy1 all the different species of linget1 and almost all birds with a slender beak1 are commonly called becafico1 because in the autumn they attack and eat the figs1 and thereby the flesh of these birds becomes then fat and exquisite2 but that really known as the becafico is remarkable for its delicacy2 therefore it has at all times been recherch as an excellent eating4 ,it is like a small lump of light fat--savoury1 melting1 easy of digestion2 and1 in truth1 an extract of the juice from the delicious fruits it has fed upon40--,vieillot4 ,,the ,,ortolan4 ,florence and ,bologna sent to ,rome cases of ortolans1 the enormous price of which irritated instead of discouraging gluttony4,,xx-#gf ,they arrived in the metropolis of the world1 picked and separated one from the other by layers of flour to prevent decomposition4,,xx-#gg ,each of these little birds furnished only a mouthful2 but this incomparable mouthful eclipsed everything else1 and produced a sort of epicurean extacy which may be called the transcendantalism of gastronomy4 ,ortolans were submitted to the same treatment as fig-peckers in their preparation4 ,,the ,,ostrich4 ,there were tribes formerly in ,arabia who fed on ostriches1 and who for this reason were called strutiophagists4,,xx-#gh ,marmot asserts that1 in his time1 they were eaten in ,africa1 although their flesh was glutinous1 and had a bad smell4 ,when the people of ,numidia took any that were young1 they reared and fatted them1 and led them to feed by flocks in the ,desert2 and as soon as they were fat they killed and salted them4,,xx-#gi ,the ,arabs of the present day abstain from them2 but it is said they seek much the fat1 which they use plentifully in cooking4 ,they were served at ,rome on a few tables4 ,this was nothing but a depravation of taste4 ,heliogabalus1 who understood good living better1 contented himself with the brains of ostriches4 ,six hundred of these animals furnished enough for one meal4,,xx-#hj ,the devastation was great1 but the emperor had made a good supper4 ,the ostrich's eggs are very hard1 very heavy1 and very large2 their weight often equals three pounds4 ,the colour is of a dirty white1 with light yellow veins2 they are good to eat4 ,in ,africa they are sought after as a friandise1 and cooked in various ways4 ,the commonest and the best is1 after breaking1 to mix and cook them with a good deal of butter4 ,they are large enough and sufficient for a man's meal4 ,when the ,arabs have killed an ostrich they open its throat1 and make a ligature under the opening2 three or four men take the bird1 and shake it1 the same as rincing a pouch2 after which1 the ligature being undone1 a considerable quantity of a greasy substance comes out1 mixed with blood and fat as thick as coagulated oil4 ,one ostrich produces as much as twenty pounds of it1 and it is used for the preparation of dishes1 for the cure of rheumatism1 humeurs froides1 and paralysis4 ,the ,romans used this grease for the same purposes1 and believed it possessed the most precious qualities4 ,,the ,,stork4 ,in spite of the religious respect of the ,romans for this bird1 the emblem of peace,,xx-#ha and domestic virtues1 ,sempronius ,rufus1 an ancient prtor1 caused his cook to dress some young storks2 and this brought into fashion,,xx-#hb a dish which caprice alone could introduce at feasts4,,xx-#hc ,,the ,,sea-,,swallow4 ,among the ancients1 the swallow--joyous herald of spring--possessed little attraction for those men whom their gluttony has rendered so justly celebrated4 ,alas6 they knew not the 8,salangan swallow10 hirundo esculenta2 they never tasted those birds' nests which ,europe still envies the ,east4 ,the inhabitants of the ,philippine ,islands give the designation of salangan swallow to a little coast bird 7the halcyon1 or kingfisher71 celebrated for the singular construction of its nest4 ,these nests have been compared to those which the ,greeks and ,romans called halcyon's nests2 but this comparison is false1 since the marine productions to which they gave this name are not birds' nests but polypus's1 or the cylindrical covering of the polypi--the halcyonium--a kind of medicament1 of which there were several varieties4,,xx-#ajc ,all travellers agree that the ,chinese1 and other eastern nations1 have an extreme partiality for the salangan's nest1 as a delicious seasoning for their viands1 and that they value it excessively2 but they differ strangely as to its nature1 its form1 and the places where it is found4 ,according to some1 the material of these nests is a froth of the sea1 or the spawn of fish1 and strongly aromatic4 ,others say it has no taste4 ,some pretend that it is a juice gathered by the salangans from the tree called salambouc2 some maintain that it is a viscous humour that they give out from the beak at a certain period of the year2 and1 lastly1 many affirm that these birds compose it entirely from the remains of fish-zoophytes4 ,with respect to the form1 some say that it is hemispherical2 others that it resembles a shell valve4 ,as to the places where the salangans build their nests1 some observers assure us that it is fixed on the rocks a little above the level of the sea2 in the hollows of those same rocks2 and1 lastly1 that they conceal them in holes which they burrow under ground4 ,according to ,kmpfer1 these nests1 so far as they are known to us1 are nothing more than a preparation concocted from the flesh of the polypi4 ,the celebrated traveller ,poivre1 while occupied one day in picking up shells and coral near ,java1 penetrated a rather deep cavern at a short distance from the sea shore1 and found the sides of it covered with little nests1 in the form of a deep shell1 firmly fixed to the rock4 ,these nests were taken on board1 and several persons who had been in ,china immediately recognised them as being identical with those that the ,chinese seek with such avidity4 ,the birds which had built them were true swallows1 of about the size of the humming bird4 ,poivre adds that1 in the months of ,march and ,april1 the sea from ,java to ,cochin ,china is covered with spawn1 which has the appearance of half-dissolved glue1 and that he had learned from the ,malays and the ,cochin ,chinese that the salangan builds its nest with this spawn4 ,all agreed on this point4 ,the bird picks it up as he skims the water1 or from the rocks where the spawn coagulates4 ,it is at the end of ,july and the commencement of ,august that the ,cochin ,chinese collect the nests1 and1 as the young birds are hatched in ,march and ,april1 the species do not suffer by it4 ,by the subsequent examination of these nests it was found that they presented the form of the half of a hollow1 lengthened ellipsoid4 ,they are composed1 externally1 of very thin lamin1 nearly concentric1 and laid one over the other4 ,the interior presents several layers of irregular net-work1 superposed one over another1 and formed of a multitude of threads of the same matter as the external lamin1 and which cross and re-cross in every direction4 ,their composition1 which has a slight taste of salt1 is of a yellowish white and demi-transparent2 it softens in warm water without dissolving1 and increases in volume4 ,it is a substantial food1 and would be excellent for persons suffering from exhaustion1 whose debile stomachs ill perform their functions4 ,poivre declares that he never eat anything more fortifying than a pottage made with these nests and some good meat4 ,the salangan nests are of two sorts--the white and the black4 ,it appears that the white nests are those of the same year1 and that the black ones belong to an epoch less recent4 ,the birds are engaged about two months in preparing them1 and the ,chinese do not take them away until the young ones are feathered1 and begin to be pretty strong on the wing4,,xx-#ajd 99 99 99 99 99 ,this nomenclature would be incomplete1 did we not briefly mention some kinds of game which appeared with more or less favour on the tables of the ancients4 ,the ,wood-,hen1 dear to the ,greeks1,,xx-#hd was not common at ,rome in the time of ,varro4 ,the curious reared them in aviaries with other rare birds4,,xx-#he ,the ,bustard1 the ,water-,hen1 and the ,teal1 found many admirers4,,xx-#hf ,the ,romans reared the last-named1,,xx-#hg and judged it worthy of notice among the most delicate morsels of the feast4 ,the ,woodcock1 which is thought to be the rustica perdix of ,martial1,,xx-#hh and the ,snipe do not appear to have obtained from the gastrophilists of antiquity that attention they deserved4 ,this delicious game was ill-appreciated in ,italy and at ,athens4 ,history1 that 8conscience of posterity10 reproaches them with this oversight1 and is astonished that the ,curlew should have usurped1 particularly in ,greece1,,xx-#hi a pre-eminence which it certainly does not deserve4 8,the fat of the snipe is of a most delicate savour1 which it acquires only after the first appearance of the frosty season4 ,it is cooked like the woodcock1 without being drawn40--,,vieillot4 ,the gourmets have a way of knowing when the flesh of the woodcock is arrived at the degree of flavour required to be sought after3 the bird is suspended by the beam-feather of the middle of its tail2 when the body gets loose and full1 then is the time to eat it4 8,the woodcock is cooked with the entrails in1 which1 being pounded with what they contain1 form its own and best seasoning40--,sonnini4 ,the ,crow1 an object of superstitious worship among the ,egyptians1,,xx-#ij offered to the less scrupulous inhabitants of ,alexandria a dish unequalled in delicacy2,,xx-#ia but which never seems to have tempted the nations of the west4 ,the ,turtle ,dove1,,xx-#ib whose timid innocence caused it to be revered in ,assyria1,,xx-#ic had a less glorious destiny at ,rome4 ,it was roasted1 and epicures greedily devoured the legs4,,xx-#id ,the ,lark joined to the delicate flavour of its flesh a more precious quality2 either roast or boiled1 it infallibly cured persons attacked with the colic4,,xx-#ie ,we cannot say whether it possesses this useful property at the present day4 8,the common lark1 which is called at ,paris mauviette1 is generally looked upon as a wholesome1 delicate1 and light game4 ,it is dressed in various ways2 and the gourmets appreciate the value of the excellent lark pies which have established the reputation of the town of ,pithiviers in ,france40--,,sonnini4 ,the ,romans went to almost fabulous expenses in order to procure game4 ,what enormous sums1 may we not imagine1 were given for those dishes of flamingoes' tongues and ostriches' brains already mentioned6 ,what must have been the cost of the seven thousand birds which the brother of ,vitellius served to the voracious emperor6,,xx-#if ,and yet all these follies fall far short of those they committed through their love of fish4 ,the inventive genius of the ,greeks discovered in ichthyophagy strange refinements1 though always impressed with we know not what kind of propriety1 which seems to palliate their excesses4 ,the ,romans at first imitated1 and soon afterwards surpassed them4 ,their frightful gluttony was revived by crime1 and exulted in barbarity4 ,the sea eels 7conger1 or murna helena7 will not eat2 let a slave be thrown to them1 young and healthy1 his flesh will be more tempting and alive1 that his struggle against unspeakable tortures may the better irritate the devouring ardour of these beloved fish4 ,and a few days afterwards1 the grave patrician1 or the noble knight1 again offered them this human food2 and no remorse1 no doubt1 no gloom1 ever clouded his brow2 no thrill of horror crossed his mind1 while he feasted on those sea eels he had fattened so well4 ,more than two-thirds of the inhabitants of the most civilised countries were plunged in slavery1 and employed solely to gratify the sensuality of the other third4 ,that alone gives a terrifying idea of the contempt in which man was held by his fellow-man1 of the power of egotism1 and of the vast corruption resulting from it4 ,and what cruelties were committed in the face of heaven1 sanctioned by the law1 and by the manners and customs of society6 ,the masters had absolute power over their slaves1 and could punish them with blows or death at their own will and pleasure4,,xx-#ig ,if an unfortunate servant happened to taste a sauce1 or the remains of a fish1 this unpardonable crime was often punished by crucifixion4,,xx-#ih ,the virtuous ,cato sold his old slaves at whatever price they would fetch1 rather than feed useless beings4,,xx-#ii ,the senator1 ,q4 ,flaminius1 put one of his domestics to death as a new spectacle for one of his friends1 who had never enjoyed the pleasure of seeing a man killed4,,xx-#ajj ,if the father of a family was assassinated in his house1 and the murderer was not discovered1 all the slaves were subject to the capital punishment4 ,one of the grandees of ,rome1 who possessed four hundred of them1 having been killed by one of the number1 they were all put to death4,,xx-#aja ,at the funeral of rich persons1 a certain number of slaves were often slain as victims agreeable to their manes4 ,and what is remarkable is1 that these things1 which we can hardly believe1 were not viewed as excesses1 not even as an abuse of power1 but simply as the exercise of a natural right4 ,such scenes were witnessed daily1 without exciting the least censure1 or the slightest protestation1 on the part of those numerous writers and sophists1 who passed their whole lives in declaiming against the manners of the age4 ,it is true that legislation had taken the lead by applying to slaves this dreadful aphorism3 8,they are still more null than vile20--,non tam viles quam nulli sunt4,,xx-#ajb ,such were the conquerors of the world6 ,such were those ,romans who invented dreadful crimes through love of good living6 ,,xxi4 ,,fish4 ,perhaps it has not been sufficiently remarked that the science of ichthyophagy is generally developed in a direct ratio with the civilization of a people4 ,man began at first by satisfying the imperious necessities of his stomach2 he then eat to live1 and all was good to him4 ,experience by degrees gave rise to eclectism--choice4 ,it was then discovered that a coarse and solid food might be replaced by a delicate and savoury alimentation2 joyous appetite1 and sensuality1 its effeminate companion1 took the place of hunger1 and this happy couple gave birth to the more amiable of fairies1 who1 under the name of ,gastronomy1 was soon to govern the world and prescribe to it imperishable laws4 ,it is asserted that the art of preparing fish was one of the first boons of this powerful sovereign1 and that1 instructed by her1 ,thetis rendered ichthyophagist the god of light and the fine arts4,,xxi-#a ,the ,jews1 an agricultural people1 living far from the borders of the sea1 attached but very little importance to fishing and the researches necessarily attendant on it2 so much so1 that we hardly perceive any trace among them of this kind of food1 which ,moses did not entirely interdict1 since that wise legislator was satisfied with prohibiting fishes without scales or fins4,,xxi-#b ,what an immense wealth remained unexplored6 ,let us pity them for not having known how to profit by it1 notwithstanding the good will of the ,phnicians1 inhabitants of the coast1 who brought them the produce of their maritime excursions4 ,let us say it3 the ,hebrews were tolerably bad cooks4 ,they possessed most admirable laws1 a fertile country1 courage and many virtues1 but their sobriety never would allow them to understand the art of good living4 ,in that1 they are to be pitied4 ,we must agree that the ,egyptians had better taste4 ,worshippers of certain fish1 they used to embalm them,,xxi-#c as a means of preservation2 and what is still better1 they eat others in spite of the example of their priests1 who never touched them4,,xxi-#d ,in fact1 the preparation of those dishes required the trouble of a little study and culinary labour2 therefore1 to avoid it1 they eat the fish raw when very hungry2 the epicures dried them in the sun1 and they were served salted on great solemnities4 ,but it was left to a woman to understand this wholesome and delicate food1 and to raise it to the rank it ought always to have occupied4 ,gatis--let her be named with admiration--,queen of ,syria1 and no doubt a beautiful woman1 was so fond of fish that1 in order to be continually supplied with the choicest quality1 she ordered all caught in her kingdom to be brought to her1 and that none should be eaten without the royal permission4 ,this law1 for it really was one1 created great dissatisfaction2 but she very sensibly allowed them to complain1 and continued to treat herself and those of her privileged subjects whom she condescended sometimes to admit to her table1 with the most exquisite dishes of fish1 such as the tunny1 conger eel1 and carp4,,xxi-#e ,it is much to be regretted that the chroniclers of that time have forgotten to transmit to us the name of the cook of this illustrious ,queen1 and the recipes of the sauces she preferred4 ,with great pleasure we turn to the ,greeks1 that charming people who had only to set their foot on the most barren soil to cover it with flowers1 and who laid the foundation of ichthyophagy as well as all other sciences4 ,it appears1 however1 that1 at first1 they thought but little of fish as an aliment4 ,none had ever been served to the heroes of ,homer1 and ,ulysses1 relating that his hungry companions had partaken of some fish1 seems to excuse them1 by saying3 8,hunger pressed their digestive organs40,,xxi-#f ,to be sure a celebrated philosopher1,,xxi-#g and also an amiable epicurean1,,xxi-#h attributed this grievous abstinence of those warriors to the fear of being enervated by dishes too delicious4 ,and then1 the terrible ,achilles and the impetuous ,ajax could not1 perhaps1 make up their minds to degustate under their tents a sole au gratin1 or a fried herring1 with the slow precaution more humble mortals willingly submit to4 ,but shortly after that1 fresh and salt fish became one of the principal articles of diet with the ,hellenes4 ,aristophanes and the gastrophilist ,athenus1 allude to it a hundred times in their writings1 and various personages are the subjects of biting sarcasms on account of their excessive partiality to the mullet1 scar1 and turbot4 ,we may name1 among others1 ,philoxenes of ,cythera1 who learning from his doctor that he was going to die of indigestion1 for having eaten too much of a most exquisite fish3 8,be it so10 he calmly exclaimed2 8but1 before ,i go1 allow me to finish the remainder40,,xxi-#i ,everyone knows the witty jokes of ,lucian1 who informs us that he knew a philosopher who examined1 with the most serious comicality1 the nature of the soul of an oyster4,,xxi-#aj ,highly favoured by the neighbourhood of the sea1 the ,greek population applied themselves1 with that peculiar taste which characterized them1 to distinguish the best species2 and skilful cooks knew how to give to fish the most refined flavour1 thanks to the numerous combinations of ingredients which we too have learned from the ancient authors who have written on dietetics4 ,they possessed various ways of preparing them with salt or oil1 and aromatics4,,xxi-#aa ,athenus has transmitted to us some very important precepts upon their seasoning4 schylus and ,sophocles were not above lowering their tragic muse by sometimes introducing remarks on fish sauce4 ,the productions of the sea had for ,athens such an irresistible interest1 that a law of police forbad all fishmongers to sit down until they had parted with the whole of their stock2 so that the uncomfortable position of standing made them more submissive1 and induced them to dispose of the fish at a more reasonable price4,,xxi-#ab ,this regulation in the 8,billingsgate0 of ,athens was very rigorously observed1 and the purchasers were highly delighted with it4 ,they also required that the fish should always be out of the water2 and this wise law1 consequently1 did not allow its being preserved1 or the price to be increased4,,xxi-#ac ,and finally1 as soon as any kind of fish was brought to market1 they were required to call the customers together immediately1 by a kind of market-bell1 which was a sort of invitation to come and make their purchases4,,xxi-#ad ,some would-be philosophers1 members of the opposition of that period1 thought of raising their voices against the common taste4 ,symmachus1 ,polycrates1 and ,lamprias1 tried to prove1 in their writings1 that those who eat fish were the most cruel and ferocious of men4 ,these tender ichthyophilists were laughed at1 and their works had no sale4 ,the ,romans inherited the predilection of the ,greeks1 8,for the dumb companions of the fair ,amphitryte20 but1 excited by the love of the marvellous1 they stocked the sea with imaginary beings2 and they saw whales of four acres1 fishes of two hundred cubits1 and even that eel1 or that serpent1 which veridical navigators have seen again in our days4 ,it was then thirty feet in length1,,xxi-#ae but now it is much longer6 ,pliny1 who believed so many things1 swore to these by the twelve great gods of ,olympus4 ,at all events1 we are much indebted to that laborious naturalist for very precious information4 ,he has made us acquainted with the scare1 which the ,roman epicures preferred to every other species4 ,after the scare1 the eel-pout or lotas'-liver enjoyed a great reputation4 ,the red mullet1 which is still much esteemed1 was considered as one of the most delicate of dishes1 and the ,romans in fashionable circles employed it in a refinement of pleasure of a singular kind4 ,it is well known that this fish1 when the scales are removed1 still remains of a fine pink colour4 ,the fops of ,rome having remarked that1 at the death1 this colour passed through a succession of the most beautiful shades1 the poor mullet was served alive1 inclosed in a glass vessel2 and the guests1 attentive and greedy of emotions1 enjoyed this cruel spectacle1 which presented to them a gradation of colours1 which insensibly disappeared4,,xxi-#af ,the greatest sensualists killed it in brine1 and ,apicius was the first who invented this kind of luxury4 ,the brine most in use1 in such cases1 was made with the blood of mackerel1 and that was one of the varieties of that famous garum so highly praised by the ,latin authors1 and which was to them1 at that period1 what the fish sauces of the ,english are now4 ,we will give1 in this work1 the various preparations of this so celebrated condiment1 and the reader will then be able to judge for himself4 ,apicius1 the man of culinary progress1 proposed a prize to any one who could invent a new brine made with the liver of red mullets4 ,history has not transmitted to us the name of the fortunate conqueror2 but ,juvenal informs us that ,asinius ,celer offered sixty pounds for one of these fishes which weighed six pounds4,,xxi-#ag ,this was1 after all1 but a trifling folly1 in the midst of so many extravagances which several writers have carefully registered4 ,lucullus1 the most ostentatious of the patricians1 had a mountain cut through in the neighbourhood of ,naples1 so as to open a canal and bring up the sea and its fishes to the centre of the gardens of his sumptuous villa4,,xxi-#ah ,the love of fish became a real mania3 turbots excited a furore of admiration--the murna ,helena was worshipped4 ,hortensius1 the orator1 actually wept over the death of the one he had fed with his own hands2 the daughter of ,drusus ornamented hers with golden rings2 each had a name1 and would come with speed when it heard the voice of the master1 whose happiness depended on his fish4,,xxi-#ai ,sometimes1 in a moment of over tenderness for his dear murna ,helena1 ,vedius ,pollio1 a ,roman knight of the highest distinction1 and one of the intimate friends of the ,emperor ,augustus1 could find nothing better to do than to feed them with the flesh of his slaves1 who were thrown to them alive4,,xxi-#bj ,it is true that these wretched creatures generally deserved this terrible chastisement2 for instance1 ,seneca speaks of one who had the awkwardness to break a crystal vase,,xxi-#ba while waiting at supper on the irascible ,pollio4 ,this unfortunate slave having managed to escape from the hands of those who were conducting him to this horrible death1 he went and fell on his knees at the feet of ,csar1 whom he implored to inflict some less frightful torture4 ,augustus1 moved to the very soul1 granted him his liberty1 had all of ,vedius's vases broken1 and ordered that the pieces should be used to fill up the reservoir in which the barbarous knight fed his murna ,helena4,,xxi-#bb ,having given this rapid sketch of the principal periods of ichthyophagy among the ancients1 little remains to be said of later ages in which we find few traces of any particular or excessive predilection for this kind of alimentation4 ,if we are to believe ,dio1,,xxi-#bc the first inhabitants of ,great ,britain never eat fish4 ,the ,english have not thought it expedient to imitate their ancestors in this respect4 ,under the reign of ,edward ,,ii41 certain fish1 especially the sturgeon1 never appeared in ,england except on the table of the king3 it was prohibited to all others4 ,in #aach1 ,stephen wanted to modify this interdiction2 but after his reign it was again in vigour1 and considered as a royal prerogative4 ,in ,france1 anybody could eat fish1 of any and all kinds2 but every fishmonger was obliged to obtain permission from the king to sell it4,,xxi-#bd ,the sumptuary laws of that kingdom inform us of nothing very interesting on this essential of gastrology4 ,we find1 however1 by the ,edict of #abid1 that ,philip-le-,bel allowed1 on fast-days1 two herring-pottages1 and only one sort of fish--a meagre dinner1 if ever there was one1 and which1 thank heaven1 has fallen into complete disuse4 ,louis ,,xii4 was very fond of good cheer1 and1 consequently1 he appointed six fishmongers to supply his table with fresh-water fish2,,xxi-#be ,francis ,i4 had twenty-two2,,xxi-#bf ,henry the ,great1 twenty-four4,,xxi-#bg ,under the reign of ,louis ,,xiv4 fish acquired a singular vogue in the city as well as at court1 owing to the marvellous talent of that prince's cook1 who discovered the art1 supposed to be lost1 of giving to the delicate flesh of the pike1 the carp1 and the trout1 the shape and flavour of the most exquisite game4 ,at this period we have the celebrated ,vatel1 one of the most illustrious officers of the household that ever flourished in the palace of the ,princes of ,cond4 ,this inimitable major-domo understood that a dinner without fish was a cheerless one4 ,one day when his noble master entertained ,louis ,,xiv4 at a royal banquet1 at ,chantilly1 which the genius of ,vatel rendered more brilliant1 the fish from the coast failed2 he sent everywhere1 but none could be found4 ,he was completely bewildered3 he met his august master1 whose kind words1 full of benevolence1 only served to increase his desperation2 he left him1 ran to his chamber1 took his sword1 and three times pierced his heart4 ,shortly after1 fish arrived from all quarters4 ,vatel was called--no ,vatel6 ,he was sought for1 and at last discovered--,vatel was no more6 ,it appears that1 in former times1 there was a remarkable consumption of fish in ,england on the #dth of ,july1 the ,festival of ,st4 ,ulric4 ,the following verses1 by ,barnaby ,gouge prove it3-- ,,st4 ,,huldryche4 8,wheresoever ,huldryche hath his place1 the people there brings in ,both capes and pykes1 and mullets fat1 his favour here to win4 ,amid the church there sittieth one1 and to the aultar nie1 ,that selleth fish1 and so good cheep1 that every man may buie2 ,nor any thing he loseth here1 bestowing thus his paine1 ,for when it hath beene offred once1 'tis brought him all againe1 ,that twise or thrise he selles the same1 vngodlinesse such gaine ,both still bring in1 and plentiously the kitchen doth maintaine1 ,whence comes this same religion newe8 ,what kind of ,god is this1 ,same ,huldryche here1 that so desires and so delightes in fishe80,,xxi-#bh ,an ordinance of ,king ,john informs us that1 in the #adth century1 people eat porpoises and even seals4,,xxi-#bi ,in the days of the troubadours1 they fished for dolphins and whales in the ,mediterranean1 and the flesh of these sea monsters was considered excellent4,,xxi-#cj ,,sturgeon4 ,this enormous cartilaginous inhabitant of the ocean1 the ,mediterranean1 the ,red1 ,black1 and ,caspian ,seas1 received from the ,greeks1 after its death1 honours in which none of the most delicate or renowned fish participated4 ,it was announced to the guests by the sound of trumpets2 and slaves1 magnificently dressed1 placed it on the table in the midst of garlands and flowers4,,xxi-#ca ,joy brightened every face2 a more generous wine filled fresh goblets1 and some flatterers--for the sturgeon possessed many--with eyes fixed on the noble accipenser1 compared its flesh to the ambrosia of the immortals4,,xxi-#cb ,the high price of the sturgeon contributed in no small degree to such brilliant praise4 ,this king of banquets would have ruined a modest citizen of ,athens1 and hardly did the exiguity of its proportions permit its figuring among the expensive rarities of an ,attic supper1 when it had cost only a thousand drachms1 or about #af sterling4,,xxi-#cc ,the ,romans1 imitators and emulators of the luxury of the ,greeks1 were almost equally fond of this fish2 and1 like them1 reserved it for princely tables1 or aristocratic opulence4 ,it would seem1 however1 that the enthusiasm excited by the sturgeon somewhat cooled under the reign of ,vespasian4,,xxi-#cd ,perhaps at this period it became more common1 or was sold at a more moderate price4 ,nothing more was requisite in ,rome to deprive a dish of its most brilliant vogue and most powerful patronage4 ,however1 the poet ,martial1 by nature no great flatterer1 passes a pompous eulogium on the monstrous fish1,,xxi-#ce and judges it worthy of being placed on the luxurious tables of the ,palatine ,mount1 that ,westend of ,rome1 rendered illustrious by the presence of kings1 nobles1 and emperors4,,xxi-#cf ,we have before observed that the sturgeon was formerly a royal dish in ,england4,,xxi-#cg ,a celebrated traveller assures us that1 at the present day1 the ,chinese abstain from it1 and that the sovereign of the ,celestial ,empire consigns it to his own kitchens1 or dispenses it to a few of his greatest favourites4,,xxi-#ch ,this gigantic accipenser1 which often weighs two hundred pounds1 is quite common in ,siberia1 where they even catch some of a much larger size1 since some of the females have been found to contain two hundred pounds weight of eggs4,,xxi-#ci ,in #agej1 one was caught in ,italy which weighed #eej lbs4 ,there are some in ,norway1 the head alone of which yields a tun of oil1,,xxi-#dj and whose immense proportions would formerly have astonished the most intrepid gastrophilists of ,athens1 ,syracuse1 and ,rome4 ,an alimentary substance1 called caviar1 furnished almost exclusively by ,russia to the rest of ,europe1 is prepared from the spawn of several kinds of sturgeons4 ,the spawn of the large sturgeon produces caviar of an inferior quality2 that of the common sturgeon1 and the sterlet1 is prized as being more delicate1 when it is carefully separated from the vessels and membranes with which it is intersected1 well impregnated with brine1 pressed1 and slightly dried4 ,white caviar1 it is said1 is the best of all4 ,it is reserved for the court4,,xxi-#da ,there are two sorts of caviar3 granulated caviar1 and sack caviar4 ,the manufacture of the first named is performed by pressing the spawn on a sieve1 and rubbing it in every direction to remove the pellicles which adhere to it1 after which it is put into strong brine for one hour1 then drained in a sieve1 and1 finally1 pressed close into barrels1 so as to entirely fill them before the head is fastened down4,,xxi-#db ,the manufacture of the other kind of caviar only differs in two particulars4 ,the spawn is manipulated while in the brine1 in order to soften it1 and it is put1 in small portions of about half-a-pound each1 into linen bags1 which are powerfully twisted to extract all the brine before it is pressed into the barrels4 ,the workmen employed in these operations make a third kind of caviar with the refuse4 ,this sort1 used only by the poorest classes1 deserves no notice4 ,for some years past1 they have introduced the method of salting the roes as they are taken from the fish1 and packing them into barrels1 where they remain seven or eight months2 after which they are again salted1 and then dried in the sun4 ,caviar occupies a very distinguished place in ,russian1 ,turkish1 ,german1 and ,italian gastronomy4 ,the ,greeks1 in particular1 live upon it almost exclusively during the long ,lent fasts prescribed by their ,church4,,xxi-#dc ,,red ,,mullet4 ,philoxenes1 of ,cythera1 supped one night with ,dionysius1 tyrant of ,sicily4 ,it happened that the prince was served with a magnificent mullet1 whereas a very small one was presented to his guest4 ,the philosopher took his fish in his hand1 and1 with a very serious air1 held it to his ear4 ,dionysius asked him what he was doing4 8,i am busy with my ,galathea10 replied ,philoxenes1 8and ,i am questioning him on the subject of ,nerea2 but ,i can obtain no answer from him1 because he was taken at too early an age4 ,i am certain1 however1 that the other1 evidently much older1 which lies before you1 is perfectly well acquainted with what ,i wish to know40 ,the tyrant1 who happened that evening to be in a good humour1 laughed at the joke1 and offered the larger mullet to the witty gastronomist4,,xxi-#dd ,the unbridled and cruel luxury of ancient ,rome required that this fish should be cooked by a slow fire1 on the table and under a glass1 that the guests might gloat on its sufferings before they satiated their appetites with its flesh4,,xxi-#de ,it is true this barbarous gratification was very expensive1 and it was necessary to be very rich to indulge in it--consequently it was decidedly very fashionable1 quite natural1 and in the very best taste4 ,ordinary mullets weighed about #b lbs42,,xxi-#df these hardly deserved that their dying agonies should for an instant amuse the guests2 they were worth only about #ae or #bj each4 ,but sometimes fortune threw in their way much larger ones2 and the opulent amateur esteemed himself only too fortunate when he could obtain a fish of three,,xxi-#dg or four pounds,,xxi-#dh for a much higher sum than he had paid for the slave1 tutor of his children4 ,crispinus was fond of mullets4 ,he obtained one weighing four or six pounds1 for which the fishmonger asked only #fj4,,xxi-#di ,this was giving it away2 and certainly the man did not understand his trade4 ,crispinus1 on becoming the possessor of this wonderful treasure1 was astonished at his good fortune1 and the whole of ,rome long refused to believe it4 ,in the reign of ,tiberius1 three of these fish were sold for #cj1jjj sesterces1,,xxi-#ej or #bji #is4 #h;d42 and this emperor was one day generous enough to give up to ,p4 ,octavius1 for the low price of #e1jjj sesterces1 a very fine mullet which had just been presented to him4,,xxi-#ea ,and yet some persons of culinary authority paid but little attention to the flesh of this delicate fish2 they sought only the liver and head2 and if they paid for it so dearly1 it was solely to find some few mouthfuls more in these two parts1,,xxi-#eb to which caprice1 enthusiasm1 that fever of admiration1 and we know not what extraordinary gastronomic rage1 gave an inestimable price1 which at the present day excites only a smile of incredulity4 ,pliny speaks of a mullet caught in the red sea1 which weighed eighty pounds4,,xxi-#ec 8,at how much10 adds this great naturalist1 8would it have been valued had they caught it in the environs of ,rome60 ,we may suppose1 without the least exaggeration1 that many a senator would have offered #a1ejj to become its possessor4 ,it is thus that the mistress of the world foolishly dissipated in ephemeral whims the immense treasures poured into her lap by tributary kings--conquered and spoliated nations4 ,each day her patricians1 knights1 and nobles1 tired of their importunate opulence1 solicited new diversions1 and invented new excesses4 ,the mullet for a moment satisfied their prodigality1 and amused their barbarity2 but ,heliogabalus appeared1 and he imagined prodigies of gluttony which excited at once admiration and envy4 ,the liver of this fish appeared to him too paltry2 he took it into his head to be served with large dishes completely filled with the gills4,,xxi-#ed ,now1 we know that the mullet possesses only two4 ,this dish1 whose price would have enriched a hundred families1 was worthy of the ,sardanapalus of ,rome1 who1 at the age of eighteen1 had exhausted the treasures of the empire1 and whom a violent death seized most propos1 at the moment when he had attained the extreme limits of crime and infamy4 ,the ,romans served the mullet with a seasoning of pepper1 rue1 onions1 dates1 and mustard1 to which they added the flesh of the sea hedge-hog reduced to a pulp1 and oil4,,xxi-#ee ,when the liver alone was to be eaten1 it was cooked1 and then seasoned with pepper1 salt1 or a little garum--some oil was added1 and hare's or fowl's liver1 and then oil was poured over the whole4,,xxi-#ef ,the ,greeks knew how to appreciate the mullet4 ,they thought highly of those caught on their own shores,,xxi-#eg1 and placed them in the first rank of the most exquisite dishes of their delicate cookery4 8,it is with the eggs of mullets1 when salted1 pressed1 washed1 and dried1 that the preparation known as botargo or botarcha is made4 ,it is very recherch in ,italy1 and other southern countries1 as a seasoning40--,,dr4 ,,cloquet4 ,,sea-,,eel4 ,the sumptuous abode of ,l4 ,crassus echoes with his sighs and groans4 ,his children and slaves respect his profound sorrow1 and leave him with intelligent affection to solitude--that friend of great grief2 so grateful to the afflicted soul1 because tears can flow unwitnessed4 ,alas6 the favourite sea-eel of ,crassus is dead1 and it is uncertain whether ,crassus can survive it6 ,this sensitive ,roman caused this beloved fish to be buried with great magnificence3 he raised a monument to its memory1 and never ceased to mourn for it4,,xxi-#eh ,this man1 who displayed so little tenderness towards his servants1 had an extraordinary weakness concerning his fine sea-eels4 ,he passed his life beside the superb fish-pond1 where he lovingly fattened them from his own hand4 ,ornamented with necklaces of the finest pearls1 and earrings of precious stones1,,xxi-#ei all1 at a signal1 swam towards him2 several fearlessly took the food he offered them2 and some1 as familiar as their absent and regretted companion1 allowed their master to caress them without seeking to bite or avoid him4,,xxi-#fj ,this singular passion1 which at the present day we can hardly believe1 in spite of the respectable authority of the most serious writers1 was very common at ,rome1 amongst those who were rich enough to rear such fish4 ,c4 ,hirtius was the first to construct fish ponds on the sea shore1 to which many visitors were attracted by their magnificence4,,xxi-#fa ,the family of ,licinius took their surname of ,murna from these fish1 in order thus to perpetuate the most silly affection1 and the remembrance of their insanity4,,xxi-#fb ,sea-eels necessarily pleased men cloyed with pleasures1 and who substituted a kind of cold and cruel curiosity for the terrible emotions which beings peculiarly organized hope to find in evil-doing3 gladiators murdering each other2 lions or tigers lacerating the bestiarii2 all these agonies of the amphitheatre had long since lost the attraction of novelty4 ,it was a much more exciting spectacle to witness a swarm of sea-eels tearing to pieces an awkward or rebellious slave2 besides1 it greatly improved the fish4 ,the atrocious ,vedius ,pollio1 who understood these matters1 never failed to have sea-eels served him after their odious repast1 that he might have the pleasure of eating some part of the body of his victim4,,xxi-#fc ,thank ,heaven6 however1 some amateurs of this dreaded fish were not so barbarous2 they fattened them very well without having recourse to such criminal food4 ,veal was cut into thin slices1 and steeped in the blood of the animal for ten days1 after which the fish greedily regaled themselves with it4,,xxi-#fd ,it was1 doubtless1 in this manner that the skilful speculator1 ,hirtius1--the same already mentioned--nourished his sea-eels1 which produced him an immense revenue4 ,his fish ponds contained so great a number that he was able to offer six thousand to ,julius ,csar on the occasion of the public feast that general gave the day of his triumphal return from the conquest of ,gaul4,,xxi-#fe ,the greater part of the ,roman emperors were exceedingly fond of sea-eels4 ,the greedy ,vitellius1 growing tired of this dish1 would at last only eat the soft roes3 and numerous vessels ploughed the seas in order to obtain them for him4,,xxi-#ff ,this exquisite rarity again appeared too common to the maniac child1 who dismayed and astonished ,rome for the space of three years4 ,heliogabalus brought the soft roe of the sea eel into disrepute by ordering that the peasants of the ,mediterranean should be gorged with it4,,xxi-#fg ,this folly amused him1 and only cost several millions4 ,that was a trifle when compared with the blood which almost always flowed to satisfy his whims4 ,the ,greeks and ,latins thought much of sea-eels caught in the straits of ,sicily4,,xxi-#fh ,they were sometimes served surrounded with crawfish2,,xxi-#fi but more frequently they were dressed with a seasoning much in fashion1 composed of pepper1 alisander1 savory1 saffron1 onion1 and stoned ,damascus plums4 ,these various substances were mixed together1 and to them were added wine1 sweet sun-made wine1 old wine reduced by boiling1 garum1 vinegar1 and oil4,,xxi-#gj ,at ,rome the fish market was abundantly supplied with sea-eels from the ,tiber4 ,connoisseurs thought nothing of them2,,xxi-#ga they were sold at a low price1 and their disgrace became complete directly they appeared on plebeian tables4 ,the ,egyptians venerated this fish1 and always esteemed it sacred4,,xxi-#gb ,among the ,sybarites1 just appreciators of its culinary qualities1 the fishers and sellers of sea-eels were exempt from all taxes4,,xxi-#gc ,they often procured some of such enormous size1 that we should be tempted to accuse the old chroniclers of exaggeration1 if we were not aware that this animal attains considerable dimensions4 ,in the year #aghf a sea-eel was taken in the ,elbe1 weighing sixty pounds4 ,this extraordinary fish measured seven feet two inches in length1 and twenty-five inches in the girth4,,xxi-#gd ,,lamprey4 ,in spite of its soft and viscid flesh1 this fish occupied in ,rome a most honourable rank among the multitudinous dishes which intemperance was ever augmenting1 and preference was given to that species caught by enterprising speculators in that strait which separates ,sicily from ,italy4 ,these good people averred that lampreys which rise to the surface of the sea are immediately dried up by the sun1 and cannot any more descend to the depths of the ocean4,,xxi-#ge ,this little story did no harm to their sale2 on the contrary1 they became on that account more curiously interesting4 ,it was also said1 and the serious ,gesner himself has repeated this fable3,,xxi-#gf ,that if the fish fastens its mouth to the side of a vessel it immediately stops1 and that the combined power of the wind and the efforts of the rowers are unavailing4,,xxi-#gg ,the fact is that1 by means of a kind of suction1 it can fasten firmly on any bodies2 and one weighing only three pounds has been seen to sustain in the air1 with its mouth1 a stone weighing twelve pounds4,,xxi-#gh ,the lamprey has not always been the fashion1 but it has had brilliant and glorious epochs4 ,in #aace it caused so great a fit of indigestion to ,henry ,i41 ,king of ,england1 that that prince died in consequence of it4,,xxi-#gi ,since then1 in the #afth century1 it has been honoured with the reputation of having caused more than one death4,,xxi-#hj ,it was sold at a very high price1 #c at least1 and at certain periods the ,roman nobles even paid as much as #bj for one of these fish4,,xxi-#ha ,the ancient metropolis of the world had sometimes strange reminiscences of her former grandeur4 ,the ,italian epicures of that remarkable era used to kill the lamprey in ,candian wine4 ,a nutmeg was placed in the mouth1 and a clove in each of the openings of the gills4 ,they rolled them round in a saucepan1 and after adding crushed almonds1 bread crumbs1 ,candian wine1 and spices1 the whole was cooked over a slow fire4,,xxi-#hb ,,sea-,,wolf4 ,hicesius1 one of the most estimable ichthyophagists of antiquity1 does not hesitate to place the sea-wolf above all the fish which by their excellence were dear to ,greece2,,xxi-#hc and the great ,archestratus says1 that the lubridan 7a species of the sea-wolf7 is a child of the gods4,,xxi-#hd ,the ,romans1 touched no doubt by these magnificent praises1 granted to the sea-wolf that favour which a high reputation commands4 ,the immense sturgeon itself was eclipsed by it1 and the sea-wolf had the glory of throwing this powerful and renowned rival into oblivion4,,xxi-#he ,their love for its white and tender flesh knew no bounds1,,xxi-#hf and the fishermen of the ,tiber were no longer equal to the task of supplying them for the impatient gluttony of the rich inhabitants of the ,palatine ,mount4 ,still this fish only fetched a high price when taken in a certain part of the river2 from any other place it hardly commanded a few as 7pence74 ,between the ,sublicius and ,senatorius bridges1 a deep1 black1 and fetid water announced the presence of the continual flood of filth which the giant city poured into it night and day4 ,it was in the midst of these impurities that shoals of sea-wolves were seen disporting2 they fattened on that shocking slime1 and thence passed to the delicate tables of ,lucullus and ,csar4,,xxi-#hg ,the ,greeks contented themselves with lubridans taken in clear water1 and preferred the head to any other part4,,xxi-#hh ,,scarus1 ,,or1 ,,parrot-,,fish4 ,the scarus--its modern name is still problematic--furnished the ,greeks with one of those exquisite dishes the remembrance of which never dies4 ,the ,romans were not yet acquainted with it1 when ,octavius1 the commander of a fleet1 brought on board the vessels a great quantity of this fish1 which he ordered to be thrown into the sea along the coast of ,campania1 and which soon became the delight of the epicures of ,rome4,,xxi-#hi ,history has shown too much disdain by neglecting to say more than a few passing words on the subject of this great service4 ,may a tardy homage of gratitude be paid to the memory of the benefactor of his country4 ,the scarus was prepared without being embowelled1 and epicures found it impossible to satiate themselves with the entrails1,,xxi-#ij which obtained for it a gastronomic vogue it long enjoyed without a rival4,,xxi-#ia ,it was asserted that the fish ruminates2,,xxi-#ib that it feeds only on herbage2,,xxi-#ic and that1 far from being mute1 like the other inhabitants of the water1 it not only emits sounds1 but is able to express by its cries the different sensations it experiences4,,xxi-#id ,these anomalies1 either real or supposed1 had1 perhaps1 as great a share in rendering the scarus celebrated1 as the delicacy of its flesh1 and the exquisite flavour of its intestines4 ,merit the most real can so rarely keep the field unsupported by cajollery4 ,,turbot4 ,rome and ,italy were indebted to the prtor1 ,sempronius1 or to ,rufus ,rutilius1,,xxi-#ie for the turbot1 which they taught their countrymen to appreciate4 ,this fish quickly obtained the success which it merited1 and was compared to the pheasant1 as soles were likened to partridges1 lampreys to quails1 and sturgeons to peacocks4 ,some preferred turbot from the ,adriatic ,sea1 others that of ,ravenna2,,xxi-#if but all united in declaring that there was not a more delicious food1 and that a feast loses all its charm when this delicacy is wanting4 ,in the reign of ,domitian a monstrous turbot was taken2 such a one had never been seen in the imperial kitchens4,,xxi-#ig ,the emperor convoked the senate1 and deferred to them to decide in what dish it should be cooked1 in order that it might be served whole4 ,the deliberation was long and stormy2 all ,rome was in a state of expectancy2 and the august assembly strove to prove itself worthy of the high confidence reposed in it by ,csar4 ,at length the illustrious old men were tolerably unanimous in their idea that the best way would be to make a dish expressly for the fish--since there was none large enough ready-made--and also that a stove should be constructed vast enough to allow the dish to be placed commodiously upon it4,,xxi-#ih ,the emperor1 the city1 and the court applauded the profound wisdom of this decision2 and 8le turbot fut mis la sauce piquante40,,xxi-#ii ,aristotle does not mention this fish2 but his compatriots esteemed highly the turbots of ,attica4,,xxi-#ajj ,,tunny4 ,the ,greeks greatly praised the tunny fish of ,pachynum4,,xxi-#aja ,persons who prided themselves on their knowledge in the art of good living1 eat only the belly part1,,xxi-#ajb and never touched the remainder4 ,the ,synopians formerly gained immense sums by the tunny fishery along their shores1,,xxi-#ajc the effigy of which1 perhaps in gratitude1 they stamped on their money4 ,this fish came from ,palus ,meotides1 and passed thence to ,trebizond and ,pharnacia1 whence it followed the coast of ,sinopus1 and1 at length1 reached ,byzantium1 where they took nearly all those which escaped the fisheries of the two first-named stations4,,xxi-#ajd ,the ,romans offered tunny fish in sacrifice to ,neptune1 in order that that god might deign to prevent the xiphias fish from tearing their nets1 and forbid the too officious dolphins to assist in their escape4,,xxi-#aje ,they sold it at a very good price during the autumn and winter2 but it fetched less in summer because it was thought to be unwholesome during that season4,,xxi-#ajf ,the jole and belly were thought the most delicate parts4,,xxi-#ajg ,they were either fried or boiled1 with pepper1 alisander1 cummin1 onion1 mint1 sage1 and dates1 to which was added a mixture of honey1 vinegar1 oil1 and mustard4,,xxi-#ajh ,archestratus1 who1 on account of his gastronomic voyages1 was looked upon as a high authority1 asserts that ,sicily and the neighbourhood of ,constantinople furnished excellent tunny fish2 but that the best were those from ,samos4,,xxi-#aji ,these latter were much renowned among the ,greeks1 who carefully prepared the entrails1 and feasted on this dish4 ,athenus relates1 on this subject1 a witticism of the poet ,dorio1 a keen and caustic spirit of the period of ,aristotle and ,philip of ,macedon4 ,being at supper with that prince1 a guest ridiculously praised a dish of tunny-fish intestines1 just placed on the table4 8,they are certainly excellent10 said ,doric1 8when eaten as ,i eat them40 8,how1 then1 do you eat them80 rejoined the gastronomic courtier4 8,with the firm determination10 replied the poet1 8of thinking of nothing better40,,xxi-#aaj ,this fish abounds in certain seas1 and ,pliny avers that it obstructed the navigation of the ,indian ,sea to such an extent1 that the fleet of ,alexander the ,great was obliged to change its course1 in order to avoid this impassable barrier4,,xxi-#aaa ,tunny fish sometimes attain an immense size4 ,father ,cetti tells us1 that some were caught in ,sardinia weighing no less than #a1jjj lbs41 and sometimes even #a1hjj lbs4,,xxi-#aab ,,conger-,,eel4 ,near ,sicyona1 a city of the ,peloponnesus1,,xxi-#aac they formerly caught conger-eels of such immense size1 that it required a waggon drawn by oxen to carry a single one4,,xxi-#aad ,the body1 the whole of the head1 and even the intestines,,xxi-#aae were eaten4 ,this dish1 worthy of being offered by ,neptune to his divine colleagues1 was capable1 like ambrosia1 of bestowing immortality on those who had the good fortune of tasting it1 and the dead would return to life1 had it been possible to serve them with a piece of this exquisite fish4,,xxi-#aaf ,these childish exaggerations have not prevented ,galen from treating the conger-eel with very little respect3 he affirms1 that nothing is more hard or indigestible4,,xxi-#aag ,and1 indeed1 epicureans of some repute allowed only the head to appear on their tables2,,xxi-#aah and then only at rare intervals1 and under the auspices of a relishing sauce which assured its reception4 ,the ,romans had still less esteem for this too highly praised fish4 ,however1 sometimes a fried conger-eel occupied on the sigma an obscure place1 in the midst of a seasoning flavoured highly with pepper1 alisander1 cummin1 wild marjoram1 dried onion1 and hard yolks of eggs2 with which a skilful hand carefully mixed to the whole1 vinegar1 sweet wine1 garum1 and cooked wine4,,xxi-#aai ,,eel4 ,in some parts of ,egypt the eel was not eaten1 because it was thought indigestible4,,xxi-#abj ,in other places it received religious worship4,,xxi-#aba ,they were ornamented1 whether they liked it or not1 with silver1 gold1 and precious stones1 and priests daily offered them the entrails of animals and cheese4,,xxi-#abb ,the ,greeks thought highly of eels4 8,behold the ,helen of feasts60 cried ,eidicastes1 at the moment when one was served2 8,i will be her ,paris60,,xxi-#abc and the glutton seized and devoured it immediately4 ,botia--where this fish was immolated to the gods,,xxi-#abd--the straits of ,sicily1,,xxi-#abe and the ,copian lake1 furnished eels remarkable for their delicacy and size2,,xxi-#abf these were served fried and enveloped in beet leaves4,,xxi-#abg ,they enjoyed a high reputation among the ,sybarites1 a choice nation1 who would have invented cookery if the art had not already existed1 and among whom a repast was so serious a matter1 that a whole year was not thought too long in order to meditate upon it and get it ready4,,xxi-#abh ,but ,hippocrates did not like the eel1 and he forbade it to his patients1 and to persons attacked with a pulmonary affection4,,xxi-#abi ,so that this ,queen of ,luxury1 as ,archestrates calls it1,,xxi-#acj met with as many enemies as partisans4 ,egypt adored it1 ,greece was enamoured of it1 ,rome despised it1 and the plebeian alone reserved it to the humiliation in his brutal orgies4,,xxi-#aca ,apicius1 however1 has condescended to notice this fish4 ,mix1 says he1 pepper1 alisander1 parsley seed1 dill1 and dates2 add to this honey1 vinegar1 garum1 oil1 mustard1 and cooked wine2,,xxi-#acb serve this sauce with the eel4 ,nations have their ages of splendour--viands have their epochs of celebrity and glory4 ,this one seems to us fast falling into decay1 in spite of some isolated efforts in order to make it reflourish4 ,when ,rockingham was named member of parliament1 he ordered thirteen barrels of eels to be brought to ,london1 for the banquet he gave on that occasion4,,xxi-#acc ,no one to our knowledge has since prepared so gigantic a matelote4 ,travellers formerly saw in the ,ganges beautiful eels #cjj feet long,,xxi-#acd--;a magnificent species never seen in ,europe4 8,the eel1 so much despised by the ,romans1 is rather in favour in several countries2 certain species are much esteemed1 that named ,guiseau1 among others1 deserves the preference it always obtains at ,rouen40--,,bosc4 ,,pike4 ,the pike was very little esteemed by ancient gastronomists1 who viewed it only as an ignoble inhabitant of muddy water1 and the implacable enemy of frogs4,,xxi-#ace ,it was a received opinion that this despotic ruler of ponds lived for several centuries1 and it may be correct4 ,among the examples of longevity of this fish1 the most remarkable is that of the pike of kaisers'-lantern1 which was nineteen feet long1 weighed #cej lbs41 and had lived at least #bce years4 ,it is reported that the ,emperor ,barbarossa himself threw it1 on the #eth of ,october1 #abfb1 into the pond where it was caught in #adig2 and that this enormous pike wore a golden ring1 which was made so that it would expand1 and on which was engraved the date when the fish was spawned4 ,its skeleton was for a long time preserved at ,mannheim4,,xxi-#acf ,the multiplication of pikes would be immense if the spawn and pickrel1 in the first year of their existence1 were not the prey of several other fishes2 for it has been calculated that in a female pike of middling size #ahd1jjj eggs were found4 8,in the north1 and particularly in ,siberia1 the pike is preserved salted and smoked2 the largest only are used1 those weighing about two pounds4 ,when they have been drawn1 cleaned1 and washed1 they are cut in pieces1 stratified with salt1 in barrels4 ,a brine is formed in which they are left for three days1 then they are dried or smoked for one month4 ,after this time they are put in another barrel1 with fresh salt1 wetted with vinegar40--,,bosc4 ,,carp4 ,the carp occupied a very honourable rank with the ,greeks and ,latins1 but only as a fish of the second order4,,xxi-#acg ,at ,athens1 they picked out the bones and stuffed it with silphium1 cheese1 salt1 and marjoram4,,xxi-#ach ,the ,romans boiled it and mixed it with sows' paps1 fowls' flesh1 fig-peckers1 or thrushes2 and when the whole was made into a kind of pulp1 they added raw eggs and oil2 then they sprinkled it over with pepper and alisander2 after which they poured wine1 garum1 and cooked wine over it2 and when the culinary combination was completed in the stewpan1 by the assistance of a slow fire1 it was then thickened with flour4,,xxi-#aci ,in several countries it is known at what period the carp was naturalized4 ,peter ,marshall brought it to ,england in #aead2 ,peter ,oxe to ,denmark in #aefj4 ,a few years after1 it was introduced into ,holland and ,sweden4 ,the fecundity of this fish is surprising2 no less than #fba1fjj eggs were found in a carp weighing nine pounds2 and it is very long-lived4 ,several have been seen in the moats of the castle of ,ponchartrain1 which were proved to be #aej years old4 ,carp are capable of acquiring considerable dimensions4 ,the most gigantic on record was that caught at ,bisshofs-hause1 near ,frankfort on the ,oder2 it weighed #gj lbs4,,xxi-#adj ,,eel-,,pout4 ,the liver of the eel-pout 7also known by the names1 lota1 lote1 and lotus7 is particularly large1 and so delicate that a certain ,countess of ,beuchlingen squandered a large portion of her income to gratify her taste for them4,,xxi-#ada ,that lady1 worthy1 by her refined and antique taste1 of the proudest period of ,roman extravagance1 was1 perhaps1 not aware that the most fastidious epicureans of ,italy1 enthusiastic admirers of the liver of this fish1,,xxi-#adb had it served with a sauce composed of vinegar1 grated cheese1 and garlic2 to which they added leeks and onions1 chopped fine4,,xxi-#adc ,,trout4 ,elian speaks of a fish found in the river ,astrus1 in ,macedonia1,,xxi-#add which ,gesner believed to be identical with the trout4 ,it does not appear1 however1 that the ,greeks knew the real value and merit of this fish2 but on the other hand1 the ,romans assigned to it the foremost rank1 next to the sturgeon1 red mullets1 and the sea-eel1 especially when they had been fattened in the thick waters of the ,tiber1 on the very spot where the labridans acquired their plumpness and value4,,xxi-#ade ,the trout was dressed like the preceding fish4 ,,gold ,,fish4 ,this fish1 dear to the ,greeks1,,xxi-#adf had the honour of giving its name to the celebrated icythyophagist1 ,sergius1 who was passionately fond of it1 and who took the name ,orata 7from ,aurata--gold fish71 to preserve in his family the remembrance of his gluttony or of his affection4,,xxi-#adg ,his compatriots1 the ,romans1 highly valued the gold fish1,,xxi-#adh and sought with eagerness those which had fed on the shell fish of the lake of ,lucrin,,xxi-#adi--that precious reservoir between ,bai and ,cum1 which never deceived the hopes of the gastronomist1 nor the greedy expectations of the fishermen4,,xxi-#aej ,the gold fish was served with a gravy composed of pepper1 alisander1 carrots1 wild marjoram1 rue1 mint1 myrtle leaves1 and yolk of eggs2 mixed with honey1 vinegar1 oil1 wine1 and garum4,,xxi-#aea ,the slow cooking of these various ingredients gave them the required homogeneousness4 ,,whiting4 ,the flesh of this gadus is so light that1 according to an old ,french proverb1 the 8,merlans mange ne psant non plus dans l'estomac que pendus la ceinture40,,xxi-#aeb 8,whitings weigh no more when eaten than when hung to the girdle40 ,nevertheless1 the ,greeks did not think much of it1 and they said that the whiting was only good for those who could not obtain more delicate fish4,,xxi-#aec ,the ,romans1 less severe or not quite so particular1 cooked their whitings with a sauce composed as follows3--put with the fish1 in a stewpan1 some garum1 chopped leeks1 cummin1 savory1 and a sufficient quantity of cooked wine1 and some wine slightly diluted2 cook it on a slow fire4,,xxi-#aed ,,cod ,,fish4 ,the cod fish supplied the ancients with the most exquisite dish next to the sturgeon4,,xxi-#aee ,the only fault found with it was1 that it cost less than others4 ,the ,greek cooks sprinkled it with grated cheese1 moistened with vinegar2 then they threw over it a pinch of salt and a few drops of oil4,,xxi-#aef ,persons with delicate stomachs did not scruple to partake of this aliment1 which ,galen warranted as being excellent4,,xxi-#aeg ,the average size of this fish is about three feet in length2 but some are found of ten feet4 ,the common weight is fifteen pounds1 and some have been seen weighing #fjlbs4 ,leuwenhoek has said that #i1cdd1jjj eggs had been found in one fish4 ,it is probable he made a mistake1 as a cod fish of our days1 weighing #ejlbs41 produced only #c1fhf1jjj eggs--a number sufficiently prodigious1 and which shows pretty well its great fecundity4,,xxi-#aeh ,it is supposed that the discovery of the great and small banks of cod fish is due to the ,basque fishermen1 who arrived there in pursuit of whales1 one hundred years before ,columbus' voyage4 ,others give that honour to ,james ,cartier1 a native of ,falkland ,islands4 8,as early as the #adth century1 the ,english and the inhabitants of ,amsterdam busied themselves with cod fishing2 and later1 the ,irish1 ,norwegians1 ,french1 and ,spaniards competed with them more or less successfully4 ,in #aecc1 ,francis ,i4 having sent ,j4 ,verrazzano1 and afterwards1 ,jacques ,cartier1 to explore the neighbourhood of ,newfoundland1 the ,french fishermen followed them1 and brought back also this fish from those distant countries in the beginning of the #afth century4 8,man annually seizes upon a prodigious quantity of cods1 and were it not for the immense extent of the means of reproduction allowed to it by nature1 the species for a long time past would have been annihilated4 ,it is even hardly conceived how it has been possible to preserve it2 for it is well known1 that as early as #acfh1 the inhabitants of ,amsterdam had brought up fishermen on the coast of ,sweden2 and1 in the first quarter of #agib1 according to a report presented to the minister1 ,roland1 at the ,national ,convention1 that1 from the ports of ,france only1 #baj vessels1 forming together #aia1aeh tons1 went out for the cod fisheries2 and that every year more than #aj1jjj vessels of all nations employed at this trade1 throw in the commercial world more than #dj1jjj1jjj of salted and dried cod4 ,if we add to this enumeration the havoc made among the legions of these fishes by the great squales1 sharks1 and others1 besides the destruction of a multitude of young ones by the other inhabitants of the seas and sea birds1 together with the myriads of eggs destroyed by accident1 it really is extraordinary to see this fish in so great a quantity now2 but who can wonder1 since each female can every year give birth to more than #i1jjj1jjj of young ones40--,,dr4 ,,cloquet4 ,,perch4 ,the ,greeks were acquainted with the perch4,,xxi-#aei ,diocles used to give the flesh to the sick2,,xxi-#afj ,xenocrates extolled those from the ,rhine2,,xxi-#afa and ,ausonius1 the poet1 has sung the praises of those fed in the ,moselle4,,xxi-#afb ,with the ,romans1 this fish obtained a renown almost equal to that bestowed on the trout2 and all eyes bespoke its welcome at supper1 when it appeared on the table1 covered with a seasoning in which pepper1 alisander1 cummin1 and onions were artistically combined with stoned ,damascus plums--thanks to the clever use of wine1 vinegar1 sweet wine1 oil1 and cooked wine4 ,this ingenious amalgamation acquired over a slow fire the requisite consistence and cohesion4,,xxi-#afc ,,scate4 ,the ancients liked or disliked scate1 according to the places where they eat it4 ,so1 now1 this fish is rejected in ,sardinia1 and thought excellent in ,london and ,paris4,,xxi-#afd ,the ,greek gastronomists of fashion sometimes partook of the back of the scate2,,xxi-#afe the remainder seemed unworthy of their attention1 and a certain poet maintains that a piece of stuff1 boiled1 offers to the palate a flavour quite as agreeable4,,xxi-#aff ,italian gluttony always gave a cold reception to this dish1 which they owed to the ,greek cooks1 and which their magiric writers have not sufficiently studied4 ,aristotle knew of two species of scate2,,xxi-#afg ,pliny speaks of them2,,xxi-#afh ,lacpde enumerates thirty-nine species4,,xxi-#afi ,that celebrated naturalist1 ,buffon's pupil and competitor1 assures us that several eastern nations consider the smoke arising from the eggs of scates1 thrown on burning coals1 and inhaled by the mouth and nostrils1 as an excellent remedy against intermittent fever4,,xxi-#agj ,it would cost but little to make the experiment4 ,,salmon4 ,it is reported that the salmon was thus named on account of its frequent leaping4,,xxi-#aga ,it has been sung by ,ausonius4,,xxi-#agb ,its absence left a chasm in the delights of ,greece1 and it was late before it became known in ,rome4 ,pliny is the first of ,latin authors who name it4,,xxi-#agc ,ichthyophagy will cherish the memory of this laborious author4 ,he speaks with praise of the salmon taken in the ,garonne and ,dordogne4 ,he extols those of the ,rhine1 but he seems to give a decided preference to those magnificent fishes covered with a silvery mail1 which disport in the limpid waters of that picturesque and beautiful ,aquitaine4,,xxi-#agd,l ,two centuries ago1 there was such a great quantity of salmon taken in the rivers of ,scotland1 that1 instead of being considered a delicate dish1 it served commonly as food for servants1 who it is said1 stipulated sometimes1 that they should not be obliged to eat that common1 tasteless aliment more than five times per week4,,xxi-#age ,,sepia1 ,,or1 ,,cuttle-,,fish4 ,pliny has extolled the constancy of conjugal affection in the cuttle-fish1 and the courage with which the male defends his companion in the moment of danger4,,xxi-#agf ,the poet ,persius describes its flight1 protected by the thick1 black liquid with which it blinds its enemies4 ,apicius1 struck more by its succulent qualities1 opens this fish1 empties it1 and stuffs it with cooked brains1 to which he adds raw eggs and pepper2 he then boils it in a seasoning of pepper1 alisander1 parsley seed1 and cooked wine1 mixed with honey1 wine1 and garum4,,xxi-#agg ,thus prepared1 the cuttle-fish passed at ,rome as an estimable dish1 and which might be offered at an unpretending repast4 ,,swordfish4 ,the ,greeks were fond of the swordfish1 and often partook of it1,,xxi-#agh with a sauce of which oil was the basis1 and with which were mixed yolks of eggs1 leeks1 garlic1 and cheese4,,xxi-#agi ,the ,romans thought very little of this fish1 and prayed ,neptune to send it far from their nets4 ,,shad4 ,the shad was caught during the summer1 and sold to the people1,,xxi-#ahj who boiled it and dished it up with strong herbs and oil4 ,this plebeian fish was excluded from all respectable banquets4,y 8,modern taste has allowed this estimable fish to re-appear on the table1 where it is always seen with pleasure4 ,this fish is caught in most of the great rivers of ,europe1 ,asia1 and northern ,africa40--,,bosc4 ,,rhombo1 ,,or1 ,,rhombus4 ,the rhombo claimed the attention of the discriminating ichthyophagists of ,rome by the delicacy of its flesh1 and few fish would have been preferred to it had it not been feared that it rendered digestion difficult4,,xxi-#aha ,some intrepid stomachs1 however1 greeted this dish without much repugnance when presented to them fried and sprinkled with pepper1 in the midst of a seasoning in which pepper1 cummin1 coriander1 benzoin1 wild marjoram1 and rue1 heightened by a little vinegar1 were mixed with dates1 honey1 cooked wine1 and oil4 ,this boiling sauce was poured over the rhombo1 but not before it had been enriched with garum1,,xxi-#ahb which we had almost forgotten--that inevitable brine which the ancient magiric genius placed everywhere1 and whose prodigious renown ought to have preserved it from oblivion4 ,,mugil4 ,this fish1 singular instrument of a punishment invented by ,rome1,,xxi-#ahc entered into the bill of fare of a fashionable supper1 but one without that magnificence which a feast of parade exacts4 ,it was prepared with pepper1 alisander1 cummin1 onion1 mint1 rue1 sage1 and dates1 mixed with honey1 vinegar1 mustard1 and oil4,,xxi-#ahd ,the ,greeks also esteemed mugils1 and gave a preference to those sold by the fishermen of ,scyathus4,,xxi-#ahe ,,mackerel4 ,commentators do not agree on the origin of this word4 ,scaliger1 who perceived ,greek in everything1 says it is derived from makarios1 8happy40 ,but1 then1 in what does the felicity of this fish consist8 ,the old writer ,belon1 more wise in his conjecture1 thinks this word comes from the ,latin1 macularelli1 8little spots10 because it is marked on the back with black stripes4,,xxi-#ahf ,let the etymology be what it may1 the epicurean cares very little about it4 ,mackerel was much liked in ,greece1 where it was believed to be a native of the ,hellespont2,,xxi-#ahg and throughout ,italy1 where it was supposed to come originally from ,spain4,,xxi-#ahh ,it is very probable that from mackerel was obtained one of the varieties of garum1 known by the name of garum sociorum4 ,further on1 we intend to devote a special chapter to the subject of this celebrated condiment4 8,neither the size nor the weapons of mackerel make them formidable2 they have1 however1 a violent appetite1 and on account1 perhaps1 of the confidence they feel in the number of each shoal1 they are bold and voracious1 frequently attack fishes larger and stronger than themselves1 and even dart with blind audacity upon the fishermen who bathe where they happen to be4 ,thus ,pontoppidan relates that a sailor1 bathing in the port of ,carcule1 in ,norway1 missing one of his companions1 saw him a few minutes afterwards dead1 the body mangled and covered with a multitude of mackerel1 tearing his remains to pieces40--,,dr4 ,,cloquet4 ,,haddock4 ,the haddock1 like the sturgeon1 was surrounded with the ridiculous honours of an almost divine pomp4,,xxi-#ahi ,it was served interwoven with garlands1 and trumpeters accompanied the slaves who1 with uncovered heads and foreheads crowned with flowers1 brought to the guests this dish1 the merit of which was1 perhaps1 exaggerated by capricious fancies4,,xxi-#aij ,,tench4 ,ausonius1 who lived in the #dth century of the ,christian era1 is the first who has spoken of the tench1 in his poem of the 8,mostella40,,xxi-#aia ,it was abandoned to the common people1 who alone feasted on it4,,xxi-#aib ,this fish1 long the victim of an unjust disdain1 ultimately conquered from the great that esteem which they at first refused to it4 ,,dragon ,,weaver4 ,the dragon weaver traversed unseen the long and brilliant gastronomic period of the ,romans4 ,greece rendered it more justice2,,xxi-#aic but its too modest qualities were not able to preserve it from forgetfulness and indifference4 ,,loligo4 ,at ,rome the loligo1 a species of cuttle-fish1 was sometimes served with pepper and rue1 mixed with garum1 honey1 sweet wine boiled1 and a few drops of oil4,,xxi-#aid ,,sole4 ,this fish1 which the ,greeks caught on the coast1,,xxi-#aie was much sought after on account of the delicacy of its nourishing and light flesh4,,xxi-#aif ,the flounder1 the brill1 the diamond and ,dutch plaice1 which1 together with the sole1 were known under the general name of passeres1 enjoyed an equal esteem1 and had attributed to them the same qualities4 ,,angel-,,fish4 ,in ,holland there are angel fish of enormous size2,,xxi-#aig and ,aldrovandus relates that some have been seen which weighed as much as #afj lbs4,,xxi-#aih ,in the time of this naturalist the common people did not eat them very willingly4 ,,file-,,fish4 ,the flesh of this species of the bulistes is only good when fried1 according to ,marcgrave4 ,columella thinks much of it1,,xxi-#aii and ,pliny ranks it among the saxatiles1 the most esteemed by connoisseurs4,,xxi-#bjj ,,pilchard4 ,among the ,greeks this fish was considered only as fit for the people4 ,those from the environs of ,phaleres were much esteemed1 when left only an instant in boiling oil4,,xxi-#bja ,the ,romans1 who gave them the first rank among salt fish1,,xxi-#bjb stuffed them1 in order to render them better1 in the following manner3--,,xxi-#bjc ,they bruised pennyroyal1 cummin1 pepper1 mint1 and pine nuts2 these they mixed with honey1 and with this paste they filled the anchovy1 after having carefully boned them4 ,they then wrapped them in paper1,m and cooked them in a bain-marie1 or saucepan1 immersed in boiling water4 ,they were served with oil1 dregs of fish-brine1 and cooked wine4,,xxi-#bjd ,,loach4 ,the ,greeks liked loaches1,,xxi-#bje but many abstained from eating them1 lest the ,syrian goddess1 the protectress of these fishes1 should gnaw their legs1 cover their bodies with ulcers1 and devour their liver4,,xxi-#bjf ,the inhabitants of ,italy1 free from this singular superstition1 cleaned the loaches1 left them some time in oil1 then placed them in a saucepan with some more oil1 garum1 wine1 and several bunches of rue and wild marjoram4 ,then these bunches were thrown away1 and the fish was sprinkled with pepper at the moment of serving4,,xxi-#bjg ,,gudgeon4 ,the gudgeon--thought excellent by every one1 but which no one mentions--appeared with honour in the most magnificent repasts at ,athens4,,xxi-#bjh ,at ,rome1 it was served fried1 at the beginning of supper2,,xxi-#bji and it disposed the guests to attack boldly the culinary corps de rserve1 which took up the position as soon as the skirmish with the gudgeon was over4 8,this fish is in abundance1 principally in ,france and ,germany2 it is very good1 and easily digested4 ,they are served either fried or stewed2 when done as last-mentioned1 they must be drawn and wiped dry1 put in a flat stewpan with butter1 salt1 pepper1 good red wine1 spring onions1 mushrooms1 shalots1 thyme1 bay leaves and basil--these last plants chopped very fine2 stew the whole a quarter of an hour1 and serve40--,,bosc4 ,,herring4 ,herrings were unknown in ,greece and ,rome4 ,bosc says it is a manna that nature doubtless reserved for the northern nations1 which they1 however1 have only turned to account in modern times4 ,the first herring fishery known in ,europe was on the coast of ,scotland2 but that nation knew not how to profit by the treasure that the sea offered them4 ,all the ,scotch historians mention this fishery1 the produce of which was bought by the ,dutch4 ,this transaction took place under the reign of ,king ,alfred1 about the year #hcf4 ,after some time the ,scotch quarrelled with the ,dutch1 who undertook the herring fishery themselves4 ,as they caught a great many more than they could consume1 they salted them1 and sold them in foreign countries4 ,such was the origin of that immense commerce1 which had its rise1 according to ,eidous1 about the year #acbj1 a short time after the ,teutons had established themselves in the ,baltic4 ,it is said that we owe the art of salting and barreling herrings to a ,dutch fisherman1 named ,william ,beuckels1 who died in #addi4 ,the ,dutch nation raised a mausoleum to his memory2 and it is asserted that ,charles ,v41 who visited it in #aecf1 eat a herring upon it to render homage to the author of a precious discovery4 ,in the year #afaj1 ,sir ,walter ,raleigh gave a statistical account of the commerce carried on by the ,dutch in ,russia1 ,germany1 ,flanders1 and ,france1 with the herrings caught on the coasts of ,england1 ,scotland1 and ,ireland4 ,the sale of this fish amounted1 in one year1 to the sum of #b1fej1jjj4 ,it has been erroneously thought that the herring was the halec1 or1 alec1 of the ,romans4 ,this name was given by them to a kind of brine2,,xxi-#baj it was not the name of any particular fish4 ,there are two prevalent methods of preserving herrings1 and fishmongers sell them under the denominations of salted herrings and red herrings4 ,the process employed for the first-named is as follows3-- ,as soon as the herring is out of the sea1 a sailor opens it1 removes the gills and the entrails1 washes the fish in salt water1 and puts it into a brine thick enough for it to float4 ,after fifteen or eighteen hours1 it is taken out of the brine and laid in a tub with a quantity of salt4 ,it remains in this tub until the port is reached4 ,there the herrings are placed in barrels1 where they are artistically arranged one over another1 with fresh salt between each layer4 ,care is always taken to employ fresh brine4 ,red herrings are prepared by leaving the fish at least twenty-four hours in the brine2 and when they are taken out1 little twigs are run through the gills1 and then they are suspended in a kind of chimney1 made on purpose1 under which a small fire is made with wood1 which produces a good deal of smoke4 ,the herrings remain in this state until they are sufficiently dry1 that is to say1 about twenty-four hours4 ,in ,sweden and ,norway they are somewhat differently prepared4 ,the ,icelanders and ,greenlanders simply dry them in the air4,,xxi-#baa ,,anchovy4 ,sonnini thinks that garum was simply composed of anchovies cooked and crushed in their brine1 to which was added a little vinegar1 and chopped or pounded parsley4 ,the fishermen of the ,mediterranean and the coasts of the ocean salt almost all the anchovies they take4 ,they cut off their heads1 which are thought to be bitter1 take out the entrails1 wash them in soft or salt water1 and stratify them in barrels with salt4 ,the fishermen of ,provence think it is essential to the good preservation of anchovies that the salt be red2 and1 consequently1 they colour it with ochreous earths4 ,moreover1 these fishermen do not change the brine which is formed in the barrels3 they simply fill them up when any is lost by evaporation or leakage4 ,the fishermen of the north only use bay salt1 and they change the brine three times1 whence it results that their anchovies keep much longer2 but the greater acridness of those which have remained in the same brine is esteemed a good quality by most consumers1 and therefore they are more sought after4 ,in sea ports1 anchovies are eaten either fried or roasted4 ,salted anchovies are to be preferred when they are new1 firm1 white outside1 vermilion coloured inside1 and free from all putrid smell4 ,after having taken out the backbone1 and washed them well1 cooks commonly make use of anchovies in salads1 and to flavour sauces made with butter1 cullis1 c4 ,in this case they are employed raw4 ,they are not unfrequently fried1 after having been deprived of the salt1 and surrounded with an appropriate paste4 ,some persons toast slices of bread1 cover them with strips of anchovies1 and serve them with a sauce composed of oil1 vinegar1 whole pepper1 parsley1 scallions1 and eschalots1 all in abundant quantities1 and chopped very small4,,xxi-#bab ,,shell ,,fish4 ,the ,emperor ,caligula had made immense preparations to invade ,great ,britain4 ,he set off1 and when he arrived in sight of that ,albion he was going to attack1 he commanded his troops to form in close array along the shore1 the trumpets to sound the charge1 and sat himself on the quarter-deck of his galley1 from whence he might have directed the action4 ,for a short time he contemplated his warlike cohorts1 and having thus gratified his pride1 he ordered his troops to pick up the shells which abounded on the strand1 and returned to ,rome1 where he showed the 8spolia opima0 the ocean had delivered up to him4 ,caligula expected to receive the honours of a triumph2 but the senate1 having some sense of modesty left1 would not award them1 and the implacable ,csar1 from that moment1 swore the ruin of the senators4,,xxi-#bac ,the inhabitants of ,greece and those of ,italy thought a great deal of shell fish1 which was always served at the beginning of the repast1 just as they came from the sea3 others cooked under the ashes1 or fried4 ,in most cases they were seasoned with cummin and pepper4,,xxi-#bad ,the purveyors of fish in ,rome gave the preference to those taken in the lake of ,lucrinus4,,xxi-#bae ,the ,greeks esteemed those from the promontory of ,polarea4,,xxi-#baf ,the city of ,bai1 in ,campania1 celebrated for its charming position1 and the unreserved lax manners of its inhabitants1 was not less renowned for its culinary labours1 and the nicety which presided over their joyful banquets4 ,apicius has left us the recipe of a most exquisite stew1 emphractum1 which the epicureans of ,rome often went to degust among their rivals1 the ,campanian gastronomists4 ,cut up oysters1 muscles1 and sea-hedgehogs2 let the pieces be rather small2 put them into a stewpan with pine almonds1 fried and chopped1 some parsley1 rue1 pepper1 coriander1 and cummin2 add1 with proper care and discretion1 some cooked wine1 garum1 and oil2 cover1 and boil the whole for a long time on a slow fire4,,xxi-#bag ,we will point out the shell fish most in vogue in ,italy1 and for which the seasoning was generally composed of a mixture of pepper1 parsley1 dried mint1 alisander1 a great quantity of cummin1 and a little of the decoction of spikenard4,,xxi-#bah ,,oyster4 ,the pontiffs of pagan ,rome1 men of exquisite delicacy and matured taste1 caused oysters to be served at every repast4,,xxi-#bai ,this little piece of epicurism was very expensive1 and it was necessary for these grave personages to carry the whole of the devotion which characterized them in their love of good cheer to the highest degree1 to dare eat of a dish still uncommon a century before the ,christian era4 ,at this epoch a borriche 7a sort of basket7 of oysters was worth one hundred sesterces 7#i74,,xxi-#bbj ,it is unnecessary to remark that the poor never tasted them4 ,the ,greeks and ,romans1 like ourselves1 were remarkably fond of this delicious shell fish1 and eat them 7,french fashion7 at the beginning of a banquet4,,xxi-#bba ,for this reason ,athenian epicures called oysters 8the gastronomic prelude to the supper40,,xxi-#bbb ,they were often served raw1,,xxi-#bbc and were then dexterously opened by a slave on the table1,,xxi-#bbd in presence of the guests1 whose experienced eyes greedily sought the light purple net which1 according to them1 surrounds the fattest and best4,,xxi-#bbe ,the inhabitants of ,italy preferred large oysters1,,xxi-#bbf and exacted that this dainty manna of the sea,,xxi-#bbg should be always fresh and abundant at their feasts4,,xxi-#bbh ,this displayed wisdom on their part3 this delightful fish excites the appetite and facilitates digestion4,,xxi-#bbi ,to add to its delicate flavour1 the 8,roman club of epicureans10 a useful association1 which modern ,europe envies antiquity1 caused to be sent from ,spain1 at a vast expense1 that precious garum1,,xxi-#bcj the recipe of which seems to have been lost1 and the condiment itself forgotten by the whole of the ,peninsula4 ,the magiric genius of ,rome did not hesitate to demonstrate that oysters do not form an exception to the law of perfectibility which governs all beings1 and that it is possible to render their flesh more succulent and delicate by transporting them from their damp cradle into reservoirs exposed to the mild influence of the sun4,,xxi-#bca ,sergius ,orata or1 perhaps1 ,fulvius ,hirpinus1 was the first who received this happy inspiration4 ,he caused to be constructed1 near ,pouzzole1 a short time before the civil war of ,pompey1 a fishpond1 where be stowed oysters1 which he fattened with paste and cooked wine worked into the consistence of honey,,xxi-#bcb--sapa et farre4 ,this worthy ,roman enriched himself by the sale of them1,,xxi-#bcc and bequeathed a name to posterity--a two-fold happiness for the gastronomist ,fulvius1 whose good fortune the poet ,homer did not partake4 ,apicius esteemed highly oysters from the lake of ,lucrinus1 from ,brindes1 and ,abydos1 and studied deeply the succulent qualities of this shell fish4 ,he knew how to preserve them fat1 fresh1 and alive1 during long and fatiguing journeys2 and1 thanks to a delicate attention on the part of this immortal bon vivant1 the great ,trajan was enabled to regale himself with oysters sent from ,rome while carrying on a distant war against the ,parthians4,,xxi-#bcd ,this present of the king of epicureans to the master of the world was worthy of both the giver and receiver1 but it completed the ruin of the generous ,apicius4 ,the ,roman ladies shared their husbands' taste1 and eagerly partook of oysters from the lake of ,lucrinus1 brought into fashion by ,sergius ,orata1 and when their fatigued stomachs struggled painfully with gluttony1 this delicacy soon obtained an easy triumph by disposing the appetite to fresh exertions4 ,the means of defence1 however1 were not very formidable2 sometimes a little warm and limpid water--oftener a dazzling plume from the bird of ,juno--hastened the struggle1 and1 without effort1 decided the victory4,,xxi-#bce ,this ingenious method was very much relished by polyphagists1 and the ,emperor ,vitellius particularly honoured it4,,xxi-#bcf ,cape ,pelorus furnished the ,greeks with highly prized oysters1,,xxi-#bcg which were eaten alone1 fried1 stewed1 or nicely dressed with marsh-mallows1 dock-leaves1 and with some kind of fish4,,xxi-#bch ,the ,romans at length became disgusted with those found on the coasts of ,italy1 or in the ,dardanelles2 an instinct of greediness caused them to prefer oysters from the ,atlantic ocean1 and especially from the shores of ,armorica1 now called ,britany4,,xxi-#bci ,bordeaux supplied imperial tables1 and this high distinction is sufficient for its praise4,,xxi-#bdj ,it may not be useless to remark here1 that no sooner had ,ausonius praised this fish in his lines than it was forgotten1 and did not re-appear till the #agth century on the tables of distinguished personages4 ,may our descendants be more just than our forefathers4 ,at ,rome oysters were served with a seasoning of pepper and alisander1 mixed with the yolks of eggs1 vinegar1 garum1 oil1 wine1 and a little honey4,,xxi-#bda ,they were preserved in a vase smeared with pitch1 washed with vinegar1 and hermetically closed4,,xxi-#bdb 8,oysters of a fine quality are generally of easy digestion1 but not very nourishing1 particularly when eaten raw4 ,they are sought for to open the appetite1 which is the case1 owing to the nature of the water1 agreeably salted1 contained in them4 ,some mention is made of persons who can eat from fifteen to twenty dozen without being ill4 ,it is not the same when cooked2 then they become hard1 more tough1 and1 consequently1 indigestible4 ,they are also eaten pickled with vinegar and sweet herbs4 ,in this state they are sent to countries distant from the sea1 piled up one upon the other1 without the shell1 in small barrels40--,,de ,,blainville4 ,,sea-,,hedgehog4 ,under this denomination were classed all animals1 more or less orbicular1 whose envelope bristles with calcareous points1 on which account they were compared to hedgehogs4 ,the ,greeks thought them delicious when caught at the full moon1,,xxi-#bdc and prepared with vinegar1 sweet cooked wine1 parsley1 and mint4,,xxi-#bdd ,oxymel often replaced vinegar4,,xxi-#bde ,the ,romans also esteemed highly this dish1 which was recommended to sluggish appetites under the auspices of the faculty2,,xxi-#bdf and ,apicius furnished the following recipe for the preparation of it3-- 8,procure a new saucepan10 thus says the great master1 8place in it a little oil1 garum1 sweet wine1 and pepper4 ,when the mixture begins to boil1 stuff the sea hedgehogs1 then submit them to the action of a slow fire2 add a large quantity of pepper1 and serve40,,xxi-#bdg ,,mussel4 ,the two great nations of antiquity have granted uncommon praise to mussels1 and partook of them at their most sumptuous feasts4 ,at the wedding repast of the graceful ,hebe1 ,jupiter wished the inhabitants of ,olympus to exchange for this shell fish their celestial though monotonous ambrosia4,,xxi-#bdh ,epicharmus1 who records the fact1 does not inform us with what sauce the chef de cuisine of the gods dressed the flesh of those mussels4 ,the reader must thus content himself with the seasoning invented by simple mortals1 and which appeared good to them4 ,it was composed of a suitable mixture of pepper1 alisander1 parsley1 mint1 with a quantity of cummin seed1 a little honey1 vinegar1 and garum4,,xxi-#bdi ,with this mixture they covered the boiled and widely opened mussels1 and the guests found it impossible to satiate themselves with this dish1 so much more digestible and nourishing than oysters4,,xxi-#bej ,,scallop4 ,the effeminate inhabitants of ,tarentum1 the abode of luxury1 delighted in good living1 and boasted of possessing the finest scallops of ,campania1 and of the whole empire4,,xxi-#bea ,the infallible authority of this voluptuous city in matters of taste gave a surprising vogue to this fish4 ,rome1 and all the population of ,italy1 believed it was forced to eat the scallops of ,tarentum prepared with oysters1 and at other times with mussels4 ,it now remains to be mentioned that some kinds of testacea appeared worthy of the reputation they acquired among the ancients4 ,,tortoise4 ,the ,greeks and ,latins speak with admiration of the enormous size of certain tortoises in their time1 the whole species of which were comprised under the generic word testudo4,,xxi-#beb ,the ,indian ,sea produced some so large1 that the shell of one only amply served to roof a comfortable and elegant cottage4,,xxi-#bec ,the inhabitants of the shores of the ,red ,sea never troubled themselves with building sloops2 large shells of tortoises spared them the trouble1 by supplying them with charming little barks1 which lightly floated on the water4,,xxi-#bed ,and1 lastly1 in the ,ganges1 tortoise shells were found1 capable of containing no less than #bj amphor1 or about #efj pints4,,xxi-#bee ,the inhabitants of the ,peloponnesus did the tortoise the signal honour of representing its image on their money4,,xxi-#bef ,the blood cured diseases of the eye1,,xxi-#beg and the flesh--in great request--was thought excellent eating4 ,it was cut into pieces of a middling size1 and placed in a saucepan with pepper1 rue1 and scallions1 crushed in the same mortar2 over this was poured honey1 garum1 raisin wine1 common wine1 and a small quantity of good oil4 ,at the moment of ebullition1 the whole was thickened with flour4,,xxi-#beh ,sometimes the tortoise was boiled1 and covered with a seasoning1 for which the following is the recipe3-- ,mix pepper1 alisander1 parsley1 mint1 and wild marjoram1 with the yolks of eggs1 honey1 garum1 wine1 cooked wine1 and oil2 add mustard and vinegar4,,xxi-#bei ,,sea-,,crawfish4 ,apicius sought relief from his culinary studies at ,minturnus1 in ,campania1 where that great master regaled himself with delicious sea-crawfish1 in order to keep up his gustatory powers4 ,genius reposes amidst studious leisure4 ,being told that ,africa produced some of these testacea of an immense size1 immediately the worthy ,roman tears himself away from the sweet solitude he had created2 he freights a vessel1 olus smiles on the undertaking1 ,neptune protects him1 and he arrives in sight of the ,african shore4 ,scarcely was he disembarked when some fishermen brought him a few sea-crawfish2 he examines1 rejects them1 and demands finer ones to be brought4 ,he is informed that it will be impossible to procure any larger than those before him4 ,at this ,apicius smiles disdainfully1 and commanding the presence of his pilot1 orders him to steer back for ,italy4,,xxi-#bfj ,decidedly magiric genius never revealed itself by a more sublime action4 ,however1 ,pliny somewhere mentions certain magnificent sea-crawfish1 which he describes as being four cubits in length,,xxi-#bfa--very large ones1 certainly4 ,roman tables often presented to the sight of guests boiled sea-crawfish1 peppered and garnished with asparagus1,,xxi-#bfb but they were generally covered with a gravy composed of honey1 vinegar1 wine1 garum1 oil1 and cooked wine2 to which were added scallions1 chopped small1 pepper1 alisander1 carrots1 cummin1 and dates4 ,mustard was then mixed with the whole4,,xxi-#bfc ,,lobster4 ,antiquity rendered justice to the lobster1 and the taste for it did not change1 being founded on truly estimable and sterling qualities4 ,it was opened lengthwise1 and filled with a gravy1 into the composition of which entered both pepper and coriander4 ,it was then slowly cooked on the gridiron1 and every now and then basted with the same kind of gravy1 with which the flesh became impregnated4,,xxi-#bfd ,,river ,,crayfish4 ,the ,greeks were remarkably fond of this fish1,,xxi-#bfe especially when obtained from ,alexandria4,,xxi-#bff ,they were not less esteemed in ,rome1 where they eat them boiled with cummin1 and seasoned with pepper1 alisander1 parsley1 dried mint1 and a great quantity of cummin2 the whole carefully and well ground1 and mixed with honey1 vinegar1 and garum1 to which was sometimes added some liquid perfume4,,xxi-#bfg 8,crayfishes can be preserved several days1 not too warm1 in baskets with some fresh grass1 such as the nettle1 or in a bucket with three-eighths of an inch of water4 ,if there were enough water in it to cover them1 they would die in a few moments1 because their great consumption of air does not allow them to live in water unless it is continually renewed40--,,bosc4 ,,crab4 ,would you like to eat crab sausages8 ,boil some of these animals2 reduce them to a pulp2 mix with this some spikenard1 garum1 pepper1 and eggs2 give to this the ordinary shape of sausages1 place them on the stove or gridiron1 and you will1 by these means1 obtain a delicate and tempting dish4,,xxi-#bfh ,apicius assures us of the fact3 ,apicius was a connoisseur6 ,a crab may also be served whole1 boiled1 and accompanied by a seasoning of pepper1 cummin1 and rue1 which the cook skilfully mixes with garum1 honey1 oil1 and vinegar4,,xxi-#bfi ,is it preferred stuffed8 ,then fill it with a skilful mixture of cummin1 mint1 rue1 alisander1 pine nuts1 and pepper1 the whole long soaked in garum1 honey1 vinegar1 and wine4,,xxi-#bgj ,,frogs4 ,the ancients thought nothing of frogs1 which they left at liberty to propagate4 ,there was such a great number among the ,abderites1 that these good people gave up to them their native soil1 and left the place in search of another spot4 ,at the present day1 in some countries1 frogs are sought for as a most agreeable and wholesome food2 in other parts--,england in particular--they are disdainfully shunned4 ,but in ,france there is a great consumption of them1 especially in the spring4 ,about a century since1 they were greatly in fashion at ,paris2 and it is stated that a countryman from the province of ,auvergne1 named ,simon1 made a considerable fortune by feeding and fattening them in one of the suburbs of that city1 which were sent to him from ,auvergne4 8,in ,germany1 the various parts of the frog are eaten1 the skin and intestine excepted2 but in ,france they are satisfied with the hind legs1 which1 by the size of their muscles1 are themselves equivalent to all the rest4 ,they are dressed with wine as fish1 with white or brown sauce2 fried1 or roasted2 when tender1 and properly done1 it is a most delicate dish40--,,bosc4 99 99 99 99 99 ,before the conclusion of this article1 we may as well mention a frightful fish which modern good taste has banished from our tables1 but which the ancients allowed to appear at theirs4 ,it is the ,polypus1 highly esteemed both in ,greece and ,italy1 when caught at a certain period1 and its numerous immoderate legs stretched far over the edges of the dish prepared to receive it4,,xxi-#bga ,this monster was cut in pieces1 and eaten with a sauce composed of pepper1 garum1 and benzoin4,,xxi-#bgb ,it will be easily understood that ancient nations must have early accustomed themselves to fishing1 the origin of which1 doubtless1 goes back to the first ages of civilization4 ,the holy writings often mention fishermen1,,xxi-#bgc fish-hooks1 and nets4 ,homer speaks of them1,,xxi-#bgd and the poet1 ,hesiod1 who flourished thirty years before ,homer1,,xxi-#bge places on the shield of ,hercules an attentive fisherman1 ready to throw his net over some fish pursued by a dolphin4,,xxi-#bgf ,the ,egyptians also practised this occupation2 of which the following anecdote is a proof3-- ,antony being in ,egypt1 the beauteous ,cleopatra sought to amuse him by inventing for his entertainment each day new kinds of pleasure2 but the ,roman general1 seized with a violent love of fishing1 fled from the society of his numerous courtiers1 and1 alone on the borders of the sea1 or an isolated lake1 vainly waiting for the smallest gudgeon1 he forgot long hours of vain expectancy and useless patience4 ,the queen undertook his cure4 ,she commanded a diver to plunge into the water1 and there a hook a fish to the line of ,antony4 ,he1 seeing it agitated1 joyfully withdrew it from the water1 and unhooked a salted sardine4 ,cleopatra then exclaimed3 8,leave to ,egyptians the task of fishing2 ,romans should take only kings1 cities1 and emperors40,,xxi-#bgg ,the inhabitants of ,italy fished exactly in the same manner we do at this day2,,xxi-#bgh but ,roman luxury1 always greedy of extravagant profusion1 invented those celebrated fish ponds which cost immense sums1 both to build and maintain2,,xxi-#bgi and to which ,lucullus1 ,hortensius1 and ,philippus1 whom ,cicero surnamed the 8,tritons of fish pools10,,xxi-#bhj consecrated almost entirely their anxiety and fortunes4 ,this folly was carried to such a height that fish ponds were constructed on the roofs of houses4,,xxi-#bha ,more reasonable persons contented themselves with bringing river-water into their dining-rooms4,,xxi-#bhb ,the fish swam under the table1 and it was only necessary to stoop and pick them out the instant before eating them4,,xxi-#bhc ,these expensive habits could only suit the most opulent and least numerous class of ,romans4 ,the honest citizen modestly provided himself at the fish-market1 and the part not eaten by him the first day was submitted to a very simple process1 which assured its preservation4 ,for this1 it was only necessary to cover it with boiling vinegar as soon as it had been fried4,,xxi-#bhd ,fish was also well preserved by surrounding it with snow1 and placing it at the bottom of an ice-house4,,xxi-#bhe ,,xxii4 ,,the ,,cook4 ,the author of a rare and very curious work1,,xxii-#a which no one at present has time to read1 formed the charitable project of reconciling medicine and gastronomy4 ,this was a noble enterprize1 worthy of a true philanthropist1 and which assuredly presented less difficulties than people may think4 ,in effect1 what was the moot question8 ,to agree1 de forma1 without interfering with the substance2 to examine whether culinary preparations poison1 as has been said1 the food which nature gives us1 and unceasingly paralyze the salutary action of the dietetic1 which the faculty prescribe4 ,for many centuries cooking has been exposed to these odious reproaches1 the gravity of which we do not pretend to attenuate2 and yet1 ever pursuing its brilliant career amidst revolutions and ruins1 the magiric art1 endowed with eternal youth1 embellishes each new era of civilization1 receives its most constant homage1 and survives it when it fades away4 ,let us speak plainly3 mankind has thrown on cooks all the faults of which they ought to accuse their own intemperance4 ,it was no doubt easier1 than to avoid the fatal abuse of pleasure1 and the evils it brings with it2 but there was the crying injustice1 which we do not hesitate to denounce2 there lay the obstacle it was necessary to overcome1 in order to bring about a peaceful understanding between the disciples of ,galen and the followers of ,apicius4 ,gourmandise would never have rebelled against the kitchen if all polyphagists had obtained from the good ,ceres the gift she granted to ,pandarea--a celebrated eater1 who could pass days and nights at table1 without experiencing the slightest indigestion4,,xxii-#b 8,but10 say you1 8,seneca1 the philosopher1 perpetually combats1 with the authority of his virtuous language1 those dangerous men who are busied with a single stomach1,,xxii-#c and who lay the foundation for a train of maladies40 ,the reply to this is1 that ,seneca1 the pedant1 should have thundered against the stomach1 which alone is guilty 7he has sometimes done so72 that this atrabilarious preceptor of ,nero1 attacked with an incurable consumption1 could only eat very little1 which much enraged him2 and that his imprecations on the subject of the excessive riches and prodigious luxury of the ,romans of his age1 neither hindered him from possessing1 and unceasingly increasing1 a more than royal fortune2 nor from feeding--well or ill--several thousand slaves2 nor from pompously displaying in his palace five hundred tables--only five hundred--of the most elaborate workmanship1 of the rarest wood1 all alike1 and ornamented with precious incrustations4,,xxii-#d ,how often have people extolled the ,lacedmonians and their legislator1 ,lycurgus4 ,well1 ,lycurgus mercilessly commanded poor little children to fast when they looked fresh and fat4,,xxii-#e ,strange law-giver of a strange people1 who never learned to eat1 and yet who invented the celebrated 8black sauce10 the jus nigrum1 for which the entrails of the hare served as the foundation4 ,so true it is that cookery always preserves certain imprescriptible rights over the most fervent disciples of frugality4 ,moralists do not cease to repeat that ,rome would never have had sumptuary laws had it not been corrupted by cooks from ,athens and ,syracuse4 ,this is an error4 ,all the ordinances of the consuls proscribed profusion1 excess--in a word1 all the ruinous expenses of a passionate and ridiculous gastrophagy1,,xxii-#f at the same time1 respecting the magiric art itself2 that is to say1 that industrious chemistry which composes1 decomposes1 combines1 and mixes--in a word1 prepares different substances which gluttony1 delicacy1 the fashion1 or luxury may confide to it for the space of a few minutes4 ,why render the cook responsible for the extravagant tastes and follies of his age8 ,is it for him to reform mankind8 ,has he either the means or the right8 ,what is asked of him8 and what can be asked8 ,to understand exactly the properties of everything he employs1 to perfect1 and correct1 if necessary1 the savours on which he operates2 to judge with a true taste1 to degustate with a delicate palate1 to join the skilful address of the hand1 and the prompt and comprehensive glance1 to the bold but profound conceptions of the brain2 and above all--it cannot be too often repeated--to identify himself so well with the habits1 the wants1 even the caprices and gastronomic eccentricities1 of those whose existence he embellishes1 that he may be able1 not to obey them1 but to guess them1 and even have a presentiment of them4,,xxii-#g ,such is1 to use an original expression of ,rabelais1 8toute l'artillerie de gueule10 which the cook can master4 ,it is the sum total of what has been bequeathed to us by some great men1 whose scattered instructions1 lying here and there in books of morality and philosophy--there are numerous analogies between the act of eating and the art of living well--have been collected with scrupulous care1 classed with all the attention we can command1 and will serve1 we hope1 to beguile the studious leisure of the lovers of antiquity and the culinary science4 ,mankind had long obeyed that imperious and periodical necessity which has been called hunger1 when it announces its presence with its brutal exigencies1 before any one thought to form a code of doctrine calculated to guide a sensation which1 by its energy and duration1 procures us the most thrilling and lasting pleasures4 ,the primitive nations no doubt gave themselves up to their native gluttony4 ,they eat much1 but they fed badly4 ,they did not yet possess gastronomy2 and1 consequently1 they had no cooks1 in the serious and complete acceptation of the word4 ,the heroes of ,homer prepared their repasts with their own hands1--and what repasts1 gods of taste6--and prided themselves on their culinary talents4 ,o la vanit va-t-elle se nicher8 ,ulysses surpassed all others in the art of lighting the fire1 and laying the cloth4,,xxii-#h ,patroclus drew the wine1 and ,achilles very carefully turned the spit4,,xxii-#i ,the conquerors of ,troy shone more in the combat than under the tent which served them as kitchen4 ,at length the aurora of the magiric ages began to dawn3 it is not a revolution1 it is a creation which is preparing to appear4 ,man has only known hunger2 he shall now become acquainted with the charms of an appetite4 ,the ,king of ,sidon learns how to eat1 and it is ,cadmus1 the grandfather of ,bacchus1 the future founder of ,thebes1 who takes upon himself to instruct this august mouth4,,xxii-#aj ,and since that time how many illustrious followers have descended into the arena1 how many glorious names will not culinary annals have to register6 ,somebody will1 perhaps1 one day publish a chronological history of celebrated cooks4 ,in the meantime1 it may not be amiss to recall to memory a few illustrious men1 whose services and genius an ungrateful posterity has too soon forgotten4 ,thimbron1 among the ,greeks1 took the culinary art from its cradle3 he watched devoutedly over its development1 and only descended into the tomb after having won the heart of the whole of ,greece1,,xxii-#aa for his favourite science4 ,timachidas of ,rhodes1 cook and poet of the highest renown1 composed an epopee on the art which he professed1 in the midst of emanations from the stoves and the spit4,,xxii-#ab ,his verses1 glowing with the sacred fire which inspired him1 lighted up the magiric vein of several of his disciples1 among whom ,numenius1 ,hegemon1 and ,metreas1 are still cited4,,xxii-#ac ,artemidorus collected and commented on all the words in use in the kitchens of his time4,,xxii-#ad ,greece owed to this patient terminologist the possession of a culinary language1 subject to certain unchangeable rules4 ,mithcus gave the 8,sicilian ,cook0--a remarkable type of a multitude of tiresome and insipid imitations4,,xxii-#ae ,at length ,archestratus appeared4 ,he was of ,syracuse1 and passed all his life in profoundly meditating on the functions1 strength1 anomalies1 and resources of the stomach4 ,he discovered the laws which govern that organ1 and presented to the world his magnificent treatise on gastronomy,,xxii-#af--;an inestimable master-piece of laborious investigation of which time has deprived us1 together with the works of his useful predecessors4 ,we must not omit the names of some celebrated theoricians1 to whom the art owes its rapid progress3--,philoxenus of ,leucadus1 devoted himself to the difficult study of degustation1 and practised several experiments1 which were1 however1 ill-appreciated by his contemporaries4 ,thus1 in the public baths1 he accustomed his mouth and hands to the contact of boiling-water1 in order to be able to seize and devour burning viands1 the instant they were placed on the table4 ,he recommended cooks to serve everything very hot1 so that he alone exercised mastication and deglutition1 while other guests less inured1 were obliged to content themselves with looking at him4,,xxii-#ag ,pithyllus invented a sheath that covered the tongue1 and protected it1 without paralyzing its action1 against a caloric dangerous to its delicate tissue4,,xxii-#ah ,this ingenious cuirass was not appreciated1 and history1 in its thoughtlessness1 has not even transmitted to us a description of it4 ,it was then the good time of ,athens3 gluttons had made way for epicureans2 hunger1 to a less fierce and gross sensation1 already subjected to examination and discussion4 ,the magiric art possessed its rules1 its various partisans1 its professors1 and disciples4 ,great masters studied deeply the appetite--indispensable basis1 on which will always rest the culinary exegesis2 and they finished by classing it definitively1 according to the three degrees of intensity which observation discovers in it4 ,the bold appetite1 said they1 is that which is felt when fasting4 ,it reflects but very little2 is not squeamish about viands1 and loses all reserve at the sight of a very indifferent ragot4 ,the indolent appetite requires to be encouraged4 ,it must be enticed1 pressed1 irritated4 ,at first1 nothing moves it--but after having tasted a succulent dish1 it rouses1 is astonished1 its ardour becomes animated1 and is capable of performing prodigies4 ,it is this appetite which has consecrated the trivial but true proverb3 8,l'apptit vient en mangeant40 ,the eclectic appetite owes nothing to nature2 it is the child of art4 ,happy1 thrice happy1 the skilful cook to whom it says3 8,thou art my father60 ,but how difficult is this creation--how rare6 ,it is the work of genius--but listen4 ,some guests1 chosen amidst veteran epicureans1 seat themselves round a table covered with culinary offerings worthy only of the ,god of ,feasts1 and a small number of the faithful4 ,their indolent appetite examines1 compares1 judges1 and1 at length1 abandons itself to the incomparable dainties from which it unceasingly seems to draw new ardour4 ,but alas6 pleasure1 like pain1 has its limits here below4 ,strength grows less1 and becomes extinguished2 the eye loses its greedy covetousness2,,xxii-#ai the palate languishes2 the tongue becomes paralysed2 the stomach sinks1 and that which before pleased1 now creates only fatigue and disgust4 ,it is then that a cusinier hors ligne1 tries a bold diversion1 which must never be risked if the artist does not feel in himself that force of generous efforts which is no other than genius4 ,by his orders1 three or four dishes1 prodigies of science and of luxury1 appear on the altar1 which the sacrificers no longer heed4 ,at this sight1 their looks brighten2 desire revives2 the smile reappears2 the magiric facies shines forth with all its splendour2 the chest dilates1 and you no longer distinguish your former guests4 ,a man has transformed them4 ,each one chooses1 tries1 tastes--is silent1 and lost in wonder4 ,the appetite is perhaps tired1 but not satiated2 and the skilful cook at length enjoys a deserved triumph4 ,in this solemn moment he received1 among the ancients1 a crown of flowers,,xxii-#bj--sweet and noble recompense of his arduous toil4 ,nay1 a more substantial proof of gratitude often greeted his new dishes4 ,in ,greece1 the inventor alone had a right to prepare them during a whole year1 and drew from it all the honour and profit4 ,it was necessary1 in order that these culinary preparations should fall into the public domain1 that some one of his colleagues should succeed in surpassing him4,,xxii-#ba ,at this epoch1 the best cooks came from ,sicily4 ,trimalcio was one of the most celebrated4 ,athenus tells us that1 when he could not procure rare and highly esteemed fish1 he understood so well how to imitate their form and flavour with common fish1 that the most cunning epicures were always entrapped4 ,this reminds us of a certain cook of ,louis ,,xiv41 who1 on ,good ,friday1 served the king with a dinner1 apparently composed of poultry and butcher's meat1 which1 in reality1 offered nothing but vegetables1 and prepared1 too1 au maigre4 ,the ,romans1 inheritors of the luxury of ,asia and ,greece1 did not erect a temple to the greedy ,addephagia1 goddess of good cheer1 who possessed altars in ,sicily2,,xxii-#bb but they thought it impossible to repay too highly those who knew how to extend the limits of the pleasures of the table1,,xxii-#bc and a generous senator offered his chef at least four talents1 or more than #hjj a year4 ,this is yet but little compared with the magnificence of ,antony4 ,he gave a supper to ,cleopatra2 that princess praised the delicacy of the feast1 and immediately her lover called for the cook1 and presented him with a city1 in recompense4 ,how times are changed6 ,we1 at the present day1 treat all this as pompous and ridiculous prodigality4 ,it is because our somewhat mean epoch judges the olden times by the narrow ideas of order1 foresight1 and economy4 ,the ancients enriched their ,archimagiri1 wasted their revenue in feasts1 and then killed themselves4 ,we have adopted a very different style of living4 ,but1 at the same time1 how far are our most sumptuous banquets behind the most modest collations of ,greece and ,rome6 ,lucullus caused to be served to ,cicero and ,pompey a little ambigu1 which cost #a1jjj4 ,there were only three of them to partake of it6 ,the ,emperor ,claudius had generally six hundred guests at his table4,,xxii-#bd ,vitellius did not spend less than #c1bjj for each of his repasts2,,xxii-#be and the composition of his favourite dishes required that vessels should unceasingly ply between the ,gulf of ,venice and the ,straits of ,cadiz4,,xxii-#bf ,it must be confessed that cooks of that gastronomic era had to fulfil an incessant and most laborious task4 ,what was then more natural than to abandon to them some thousands of those sesterces1 which the profusion of the master devoured by millions1 in the form of phenicopters' tongues1 scarus or parrot-fishes' livers1 and peacocks' brains8 ,we see that the ,csars encouraged this frightful gastronomic monomania4 ,tiberius gave more than #c1jjj to the author of a dialogue1 in which the interlocutors were mushrooms1 fig-peckers1 oysters1 and thrushes4,,xxii-#bg ,galba breakfasted before day-break1 and the breakfast would have enriched a hundred families4,,xxii-#bh lius ,verus invented the pentapharmacum1 a kind of ,macdoine1 composed of sows' flanks1 pheasants1 peacocks1 ham1 and wild boars' flesh4,,xxii-#bi ,geta insisted upon having as many courses as there were letters in the alphabet1 and each of these courses must contain all the viands whose name began by the same letter4,,xxii-#cj ,these follies1 which cooks were forced to obey1 continued to astonish the world until the moment when ,rome--with her gods1 the monuments of her ancient glory1 and of her recent turpitudes--crumbled beneath the invincible weight of that horde of barbarians1 that mysterious and implacable scourge1 which ,divine vengeance reserved for the punishment of unheard-of crimes4 ,but1 as we have before remarked1 the magiric art always survives revolutions and ruin of empires4 ,modern ,italy inherited the wrecks of ,roman cookery1 and1 thanks to her1 ,europe is at the present day acquainted with the delights of good cheer1 and the charm of joyous repasts4 ,under the reign of ,louis ,,xii4 there arose a company of sauce manufacturers1 who obtained the exclusive privilege of making sauces4 ,their statutes 7#acid7 inform us that the famous sauce la cameline1 sold by them1 was to be composed 8of good cinnamon1 good ginger1 good cloves1 good grains of paradise1 good bread1 and good vinegar40 ,the sauce1 ,tence1 was to be made of 8good sound almonds1 good ginger1 good wine1 and good verjuice40 ,we find in ,taillevant1 the celebrated cook of ,charles ,v4 and ,charles ,,vi41 besides the cameline1 l'eau bnite 7holy water7--the sauce for pike1 le saupiquet1 le mostechan1 la glatine1 la sauce l'alose1 au mot1 that of milk-garlic1 cold1 red1 and green sauces1 sauce ,robert1 ,poitevine1 ,madame rappe1 and la dodine4 ,platina1 a ,latin author of the #aeth century1 speaks of other sauces1 in the composition of which sugar was frequently employed1 according to the proverb of those times3 8,sugar never spoiled sauce40 ,in the middle ages1 poultry1 butchers' meat1 and roast game1 were never eaten dry1 as they are now1 any more than fried fish4 ,there were different sauces for all those dishes1 and even for the different parts of each animal4 ,the cooks of those days strove to acquire a reputation by inventing strange and grotesque sauces1 which had no other merit than that of being surprising and difficult to make1 as1 for example3 8eggs cooked on the spit10 8butter fried or roasted40 c4,,xxii-#ca ,we recognize in some of our most common ragots1 those of which our ancestors were so fond in the middle ages1 such as the buf la mode1 la persillade1 au vinaigre et persil1 le miroton de buf1 veau perc de gros lard1 fricasse de poulet1 blanquette de veau rti2 but we have lost the pot-pourri1 composed of beef1 veal1 mutton1 bacon1 and vegetables1 and the galimafre1 a kind of fricasse of fowl1 seasoned with wine1 verjuice1 and spices1 and thickened with the famous sauce cameline4,,xxii-#cb ,the cooks frequently placed on their masters' tables ragots and other dishes borrowed from foreign nations4 ,they had a ,german brouet1 a ,flemish chaudeau1 eggs la ,florentine1 and partridges la ,catalane4 ,they knew the olla--a mixture of all sorts of vegetables cooked with different kinds of meats1 which we owe to the ,spaniards1 as well as the ragot of fowl1 called la ,chipolata1 and the keneffes--a kind of forced-meat balls made of bread and meat1 to which the ,germans are very partial1 and the pilau--a dish of mutton1 fowl1 and rice1 borrowed from the ,turks4,,xxii-#cc ,the art of cooking with its innumerable paraphernalia of sauces with gravy1 pepper1 cinnamon1 garlic1 scallion1 brains1,,xxii-#cd with its gravy soups1 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #aa4 milk pottage1 and ragots1 had a signal triumph at the wedding of ,charles ,,vi4 of ,france4 ,on that occasion a skilful cook covered the great black marble table of the royal palace,,xxii-#ce with a hundred dishes prepared in a hundred different ways4 ,the good physicians did not proscribe the art of cooking2 several of their number even deigned to write treatises upon it4,,xxii-#cf ,a certain monkish servant1 moved by an indiscreet zeal1 wished not only to mortify himself but all the ,franciscans of the monastery4 ,consequently1 he prepared the repasts in the worst manner he could4 ,but the community held a chapter1 and he was condemned to receive fifty lashes2 many of the monks wanted to enforce a more rigorous discipline by giving a hundred4,,xxii-#cg ,in the middle ages1 the cook of a house of any note always seated himself in a high arm chair to give his orders2 he held a long wooden spoon in his hand1 with which he tasted1 without quitting his place1 the various dishes that were cooking on the stoves and in the saucepans1 and which served him also as a weapon with which to chastise the idle and gluttonous4,,xxii-#ch ,,the ,,kitchen4 ,let as enter together one of those vast kitchens1 where two thousand years ago1 the marvellous suppers of some rich senator were concocted4 ,in every direction1 slaves are coming loaded with meat1 game1 sea-fish1 vegetables1 fruit1 and those expensive delicacies of which the dessert of the ,romans was principally composed4 ,the slaves have been over the principal markets of the city1 especially those of the ,trigemina gate1 ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xi4 ,no4 #a4 ,remains of a kitchen-stove in the house of ,pansa1 at ,pompeii1 much like those of the present day2 a knife1 a strainer1 and a kind of frying-pan with four cavities1 probably intended to cook eggs4 ,no4 #b4 ,stock-pot1 in bronze1 to hang over the fire1 if we may judge from the eye at the top of the handle4 ,no4 #c4 ,a similar one of another shape1 for boiling4 ,no4 #d4 ,ladles of various forms1 for making libation from larger vessels4 ,no4 #e4 ,a brazier2 the thickness of the sides are hollow1 and intended to contain water1 and the four turrets are provided with moveable lids1 at the side is a cock to draw off the water4 ,the centre of course was filled with lighted charcoal1 and if a tripod1 or trivet1 were placed above it1 many processes of cooking1 such as boiling1 stewing1 or frying1 might be performed4--8,pompeii40--8,lib4 of ,ent4 ,know40 of the ,metasudante1,,xxii-#ci of the ,suburd ,way1,,xxii-#dj and the ,sacred ,way4,,xxii-#da ,each one lays his basket at the feet of the procurator or major-domo1 who examines the contents1 and registers them on his tablets2,,xxii-#db then he has placed in the pantry1 contiguous to the dining room1 those of the provisions which demand no preparation1,,xxii-#dc but whose graceful and symmetrical arrangement is confided to two olian servants designated under the name of structores4,,xxii-#dd ,all these porters are under the immediate orders of a confidential servant--obsonator--charged with buying the provisions necessary for the household1 and who is obliged to make himself acquainted with the taste of his master and also of each guest1 that he may procure nothing which they dislike4,,xxii-#de ,the remaining comestibles are placed in an airy and spacious apartment adjoining the kitchen1 and at the back of the house4,,xxii-#df ,there1 around a table loaded with numerous wooden figures1 representing a variety of animals1 some attentive young men are practising1 under the direction of an experienced master1 the difficult art of carving game and poultry2,,xxii-#dg whilst a melodious symphony accustoms their skilful hands to hasten or retard their graceful movements according to the time of the music4,,xxii-#dh ,in this learned rehearsal the eye and ear1 alike charmed1 pass alternately from the peaceful emotions of the pensive adagio to the lively cadences of the rapid allegro1 and from the harmonious and calm andante to the captivating and joyous accents of a frenzied prestissimo4 ,in this spacious laboratory the most delicious emanations invite us4 ,the chief of the cooks1 the ,archimagirus1,,xxii-#di seated on a raised platform1 embraces at a single glance the series of stock-pots and brick stoves1,,xxii-#ej very similar to those in use at the present day1 at which the silent crowd of assistants1,,xxii-#ea ministers of his will1 elaborate and watch the expensive dishes destined to form a splendid supper4 ,as1 at the moment of battle1 the general1 motionless on a height which commands a view of his army1 hastens1 orders1 scolds his scattered battalions1 absent and yet everywhere1 animating with his own inspiration the warlike masses1 and exciting them with the excitement of his own soul1 he invokes victory1 and victory replies1 8,behold me60 ,the ,archimagirus has also his days of triumph2 and in the evening1 perhaps1 the king of the feast will place on his head a crown of flowers1 precious recompense of his talent and success4 ,at some distance from the culinary autocrat1 on the opposite side1 an ,illustration3 ,pl4 #ab immense iron grate1,,xxii-#eb carefully supplied with wood1,,xxii-#ec which an unhappy slave unceasingly blows with his breath into a flame1,,xxii-#ed throws around its lurid glare4 ,the ,lares1 grotesque figures1 roughly carved in stone1 protect this spot4 ,a cock is sacrificed to them in the month of ,december4,,xxii-#ee ,some learned men have supposed that the ,greeks and ,romans had no chimneys2 it is1 however1 easy to prove the contrary4 ,philocleo1 a character in the comedy of the 8,wasps0 of ,aristophanes1 hides himself in a chimney4 ,a slave who hears him1 cries out1 8,what a noise there is in the pipe of this chimney60 ,philocleo1 being discovered1 exclaims1 8,i am the smoke1 and ,i am trying to escape40,,xxii-#ef ,appian1 speaking of the proscriptions of the triumvirs1 relates that several citizens fled into the pipes of the chimneys4,,xxii-#eg ,these two examples will preclude the necessity of more ample citations4 ,a vast cauldron of brass from ,argos1,,xxii-#eh or ,dodona1,,xxii-#ei placed on a tripod above the fireplace1 furnishes the hot water required for the service of the kitchen4 ,the frying-pan1 beside it1 serves in the cooking of certain delicate cakes or fish4,,xxii-#fj ,the magiric laboratory1 to which the reader is invited1 is very nicely decorated with a profusion of utensils similar in every respect to our own in point of shape--such as gridirons1 cullenders1 dripping-pans1 and tart dishes4 ,these objects are of tolerably thick bronze1 plated with fine silver4,,xxii-#fa ,charming shells of the same metal1 serve to mould the pastry1,,xxii-#fb which is afterwards disposed with order on the shelves of a country oven1,,xxii-#fc or in the upper part of the authepsa1--a kind of saucepan of ,corinthian brass1 of considerable value1 and made with such art that its contents cook instantly and almost without fire4,,xxii-#fd ,this simple and ingenious vessel possesses a double-bottom2 the uppermost one holds ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xii4 ,from the ancients very little is left us of their kitchen utensils2 however1 the vessels and instruments which they used must have been in great variety2 they had boilers called by the names of caldarium1 cacabus1 cortina1 adhenum2 chaldron1 lebes2 stewpan1 sartago2 saucepan1 pultarium2 the cullender1 with small holes perforated1 ,pliny calls colum1 and more modern writers verna2 spoons1 in ,latin1 cochlear or cochleare2 forks and hooks1 to draw the meat out of the stockpots1 they named creagra and fuscina2 the dishes were called lances1 disci1 patina1 patella1 or catini2 and distinguished from plates by the size1 and sometimes the shape4 ,no4 #a4 ,stockpot1 with a large ladle and cullender attached1 with small holes2 appeared on the column of ,trajan1 together with the stewpan of ,silenus4 ,no4 #b4 ,broken stewpan1 in bronze4 ,no4 #c4 ,smaller one4 ,these three articles of kitchen utensils are from the cabinet of ,m4 l',abb ,charlet4--8,antiquits de ,montfaucon40 the light delicacies destined for the dessert1 and the fire is underneath4,,xxii-#fe ,the diploma1 or double-vase1 which has sometimes been confounded with the authepsa1 does not in the least resemble the latter4 ,it is thus they named the vessel called by us a 8bain-marie20,,xxii-#ff the ancients made great use of this mild and gentle process of cooking1 which is often mentioned in the treatise of ,apicius4,,xxii-#fg ,these brass boilers1 which boil on the hearth1 supported by three feet1 are precisely like those used by the ,french at the present day4,,xxii-#fh ,boilers also of a rather different kind are sometimes used1 in which the operation of ebullition takes place sooner than in the first mentioned2 they are closed with a cover in the form of a dome1 and a large hollow cylinder1 fixed beneath1 hastens and keeps up the action of the caloric4,,xxii-#fi ,the saucepans1 around which a host of cooks are busily engaged1 are for the greater part made of brass or earthenware1,,xxii-#gj tolerably wide and deep1 which they place on the stoves1 and in which are concocted the delicate and scientific preparations4 ,some are of silver4,,xxii-#ga ,the caprices of luxury have led them to suppose that certain expensive viands acquire greater perfection when cooked in this precious metal4 ,a confidential slave1 charged with the care of the plate1 is cleaning and polishing near a dresser a large number of bronze chafing-dishes1 which are to be used at table to prevent the plates from becoming cold4 ,it is in speaking of this useful invention that ,seneca1 the philosopher1 says1 8,daintiness gave birth to this invention1 in order that no viand should be chilled1 and that everything should be hot enough to please the most pampered palate4 ,the kitchen follows the supper40,,xxii-#gb ,each of these elegant utensils is supported by three geese4 ,it measures about seven inches from the extremity of one of the bird's heads to the opposite edge of the circumference4 ,this kind of tray is fifteen lines1 or an inch and a-quarter deep1 and the feet raise it about two inches above the plane4 ,the three geese have their wings spread1 and terminate by ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xiii4 ,no4 #a4 ,this boiler is made of bronze2 the lower part was filled with water1 and made to boil by means of the cylinder1 covered with a lid1 in which lighted charcoal was introduced2 the ashes escaped through holes perforated at the bottom1 and the basin has a tap to let the water out4 ,no4 #b4 ,a flat saucepan1 or saut pan1 with a fluted handle1 and a ram's head at the end4 ,no4 #c4 ,a kettle similar to our teapots4 ,no4 #d4 ,a gridiron1 and a dripping-pan4 ,no4 #e4 ,a trivet1 a cleaver1 and a butcher's knife4--,,st4 ,,non1 8,cabinet of ,herculaneum40 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #ac4 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #ad neats' feet4 ,the heads1 raised on the breasts1 form graceful handles4,,xxii-#gc ,these chafing-dishes1 arranged systematically on the sigma1 produce a delightful effect4 ,dishes of massive silver occupy another compartment of the vast cupboard4 ,an opulent family could not possibly do without this luxury4 ,sylla had some which weighed #bjj marks1 and ,rome would produce more than five hundred of the same weight4,,xxii-#gd ,it was in fact a perfect furore1 which afterwards greatly augmented4 ,in the time of the ,emperor ,claudius1 one of his slaves1 named ,drusillanus ,rotundus1 possessed a silver dish weighing #a1jjj marks1 which was served in the midst of eight smaller ones weighing #ajj marks each4 ,these nine dishes were arranged at table on a machine which supported and placed them prominently in view4 ,the patin such was the name of these magnificent pieces of plate1 served for ragots and fish2 the catinus1 an immense vase of earthenware among the poor,,xxii-#ge and of silver with the rich1 is more especially reserved for liquid dishes1 with much gravy1 and what we call pottage4,,xxii-#gf ,those silver cups and saucers1 of the same shape and size as those we employ for tea1 have a destination very strange to our ideas4 ,they are used to drink hot water4 ,they are worked in relief1 with a taste and delicacy which we cannot too much admire4,,xxii-#gg ,the ,roman spoons1 rather different from our own1 end on one side by a point1 to pick shell fish from their shell1 and at the other by the bowl of a spoon1 with which eggs were eaten4,,xxii-#gh ,doubtless1 forks were unknown to the ,greeks1 since ,athenus relates1 8that ,pithyllus0--surnamed the ,dainty--8did not content himself with covering his tongue with a species of net1 to appreciate the taste of the various dishes1 but cleaned and rubbed it with a fish4 ,he also enveloped his hands in a kind of glove1 to eat everything burning hot20,,xxii-#gi a useless precaution if he had used a fork4 ,this indispensable addition to a modern table was1 perhaps1 not common at ,rome1 but nevertheless1 it was to be seen at the residence of some wealthy families4 ,the slave before-mentioned holds several in his hand4 ,these forks are remarkable for the beauty of their workmanship4 ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xiv4 ,no4 #a4 ,chafing-dish to keep everything hot4 ,no4 #b4 ,silver cup1 beautifully chased1 to drink hot water4 ,the stags' feet which terminate the handles1 and the fillets with which they are ornamented1 bear witness by their execution to the rare talent of the goldsmith4 ,they are five inches and a half in length1 and have only two prongs4,,xxii-#hj ,other servants dispose the earthenware pails1 in which the wine is to be placed to cool1,,xxii-#ha and prepare the drinking cups and crystal flagons4,,xxii-#hb ,one of them replenishes with vinegar1 salt1 and pepper1 little vases designated by the name of acetabulum1 8vinegar cruet40,,xxii-#hc ,these are so many models of the most exquisite elegance1 in bronze1 silver1 and1 sometimes1 gold4 ,they are manufactured simply of earthenware1 for the use of the middle classes of people4,,xxii-#hd ,the knives1 destined to serve at table1 are of brilliant steel1 and carefully sharpened2 they bear each on the handle some whimsical ornament1 and seem to have served as models for those which were so much in fashion towards the beginning of the #agth century1 and which were called ,chinese knives4,,xxii-#he ,the most precious plate is arranged before the arrival of the guests on the abacus1 or sideboard1 which decorates the dining room4 ,this splendid piece of furniture1 which will be noticed hereafter1 was introduced into ,rome #ahg years ,b4,c4 ,it was also called the ,delphic table4,,xxii-#hf ,however1 the ,archimagirus has drawn up a list of the repast1 which contains the bill of fare of the dishes1 and which1 both in ,greece and ,rome1 was always presented to the guests4,,xxii-#hg ,he descends from his platform1 and goes to cast an inspiring glance on the work of each subordinate4 ,nothing escapes his learned investigation1 from the peacocks' eggs of the first service1 to the soft cheese commonly eaten at the third4,,xxii-#hh ,above all1 he examines with minute attention the ovens1 at which preside those second cooks of whose talents he is not certain1 and who belong to that class of erratic artists who are to be met with every day at the forum1 ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xv4 ,no4 #a4 ,roman silver spoon1 found at ,autun1 in ,france4 ,martial says expressly that spoons were used by the ancients to eat eggs and shell fish4 ,no4 #b4 ,brass knife1 from ,herculaneum4 ,the shape of the handle is rather singular1 being too small for the hand1 but it was probably covered with horn1 wood1 or ivory4 ,however1 it may have been1 the knife is thirteen inches in length1 from the tip to the ring1 which was used to hang it up4 ,the handle is three inches long1 and the blade in its largest width is one inch and a quarter4 ,it was used no doubt for sacrifices4 ,no4 #c4 ,a simpulum1 or a sort of spoon for salt or eggs4 ,no4 #d4 ,a simpulum1 or cup with a long handle1 commonly ending with a hook1 which was used as a ladle to take wine or other liquids out of large vessels4 ,no4 #e4 ,fork mentioned in the text1 and given as antique in the 8,recueil d',antiq410 ,,iii41 ,pl4 #hd4 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #ae4 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #af where they wait till some one comes to request their services4,,xxii-#hi ,his remarks1 full of sense and precision1 proclaim profound study and consummate experience4 8,never will this depsiticius bread10,,xxii-#ij says he to one of them1 8obtain the necessary lightness by baking2 the flour should have been passed through a ,spanish sieve of linen thread2,,xxii-#ia ,use the ,gallic sieve of horsehair for the artocreas1,n,,xxii-#ib and one of papyrus1 or ,egyptian rush1,,xxii-#ic for the coarser kinds of flour40 8,the grasshoppers require great precaution10 he exclaims1 an instant after1 approaching a young ,sicilian2 8fry them so that they obtain only a light gold colour40,,xxii-#id ,then1 passing to a third stove1 he shows to one of his favourite pupils how to season highly an excellent sauce of snails 7this hors-d'uvre1 dear to the ,romans71 and by what marks to distinguish those fattened by art in particular inclosures1 from those which feed in gardens and are only fit for the common people4,,xxii-#ie ,he then stops before a stewpan1 where a cook is browning large worms of a whitish hue1 which breed in the hollows of trees1 and are considered by the ,romans,,xxii-#if as a most delicious dish3 8,the flour with which these cossi were fed was heated10 says he2 8they will present to the teeth only a soft and insipid substance40,,xxii-#ig ,we will not accompany this great master any further3 his instructions are already known to us4 ,an enthusiastic disciple of ,apicius1 he practises the lessons of that illustrious professor2 and we should only hear from him precepts which we have already faithfully transmitted4 ,when the moment of supper is arrived1 we shall find the ,archimagirus presiding at that gastronomic order of battle on which depends the success of the day4 ,may ,vesta and ,comus be propitious to him4 ,in the #adth century1 the refectories and kitchens of the numerous communities of ,paris presented a curious scene4 ,immense coppers contained the pottage and boiled meat1 and monster gridirons1 on four wheels1 covered vast braziers4 ,all the utensils of these kitchens were of remarkable dimensions4 ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xvi4 ,no4 #a4 ,roman silver knife handle4 ,no4 #b4 ,roman silver spoons4 ,no4 #c4 ,a very deep dish of metal1 either for sauces or some kind of liquid4 ,,xxiii4 ,,seasonings4 ,,the animal and vegetable kingdoms furnish us with an abundant and wholesome food1 whose flavour gastronomic caprice unceasingly modifies by the aid of various substances which we denominate seasonings4 ,it is1 above all1 the perfect knowledge of these ingredients1 the manner of employing them1 and their skilful mixture1 which constitute the art of the cook4 ,labour and custom1 and a kind of routine which the palate acquires easily1 will suffice for those who content themselves with this calling1 and who1 carefully preserving the timid traditions of the past1 view progress as ruin and devastation1 and the fruitful boldness of inspiration as ridiculous and fatal innovations4 ,heresy1 and even schism 7pardon these expressions71 should be allowed in cookery1 as soon as they receive the sanction of the doctors s-banquets--the sole judges competent in such matters4 ,it is to the art professed by ,apicius that the celebrated line of ,voltaire appears more peculiarly to apply3-- 8,tous les genres sont bons1 except l'ennuyeux40 ,innovate1 then1 studious disciples of the illustrious ,roman3 consult only the measures of your strength1 the conscience of your genius1 and the infallible good taste of some chosen guests4 ,create for your seasoning unheard-of combinations1 the strangeness of which shall strike and astonish2 whose flavour shall subjugate and stifle criticism beneath the sweet efforts of a voluptuous mastication4 ,learn how to make your areopagit eat3 this innocent seduction will insure your triumph4 ,treat not with too much disdain these ,roman recipes2 for although the formidable list may excite a smile from the reader1 and1 perhaps1 the scorn of the cook1 a great and prolific idea slumbers beneath the cold ashes of the ovens of ,apicius which a breath may rekindle2 and1 at the same time1 resuscitate some of those culinary wonders of a bygone civilisation1 and endow our modern age1 so impatient of the future1 so curious concerning the past4 ,two ,phnicians--whose names are never mentioned by forgetful posterity--,selech and ,misor1 taught mankind the art of heightening the flavour of their food by mixing with it a certain quantity of salt4 ,the science of seasoning has no other origin4,,xxiii-#a ,,salt4 ,the law of ,moses commanded the ,jews to mix salt with everything offered in sacrifice4,,xxiii-#b ,this prescription sufficiently testifies the use of this condiment at an epoch which the uncertainty of profane writers appears to invade on all sides1 and which the great ,hebrew legislator alone enlightens with a ray invariably steady and pure4 ,the ,asphaltite lake produced abundance of salt4,,xxiii-#c ,it was sent even to ,rome1 and was considered by ,galen as the most desiccatory and digestive of any kind4,,xxiii-#d ,the ,greeks placed this substance in the list of things which ought to be consecrated to the gods2 and it is in this sense that ,homer gives it the epithet of divine4 ,pagan superstition1 of which some traces may still be remarked in the #aith century1 threatened with some great misfortune any one who spilt salt2 and it was deemed a signal impiety to forget placing salt-cellars on the table1 or to dare go to sleep before removing them4 ,this strange superstition was common among the ,greeks and ,romans4,,xxiii-#e ,those nations never failed consecrating their repasts by filling salt-cellars1 near to the vase in which they presented the gods with the first portion of meat and fruit4,,xxiii-#f ,certain nations1 among others the ,numidians1 were not acquainted with salt2,,xxiii-#g and in the greater part of countries where it abounded1 cupidity almost invariably subjected it to a heavy tax1 which rendered its use less practicable4 ,the inhabitants of ,troad provided themselves for a long time with salt from ,tragase without cost4 ,king ,lysimachus one day thought of exacting a duty for every measure carried away4 ,but1 wonderful to relate1 hardly was the royal edict published1 when the salt springs were found to be so nearly dried up1 that they hardly furnished wherewith to season a small stew4 ,lysimachus comprehended the meaning of this prodigy1 and abolished the tax4 ,the salt re-appeared4,,xxiii-#h ,at ,rome1 in the time of her ,kings1 every one was free to sell salt1 and its price became excessively high4 ,the republican government withdrew this right from private individuals1 and from that time the common people easily procured all the salt they required1 and which they willingly eat with bread4,,xxiii-#i ,ancus ,martius was the first ,roman who established salt works near ,ostia towards the mouth of the ,tiber4,,xxiii-#aj ,afterwards1 others were formed1 not only in ,rome1 but in the provinces4 ,these were of two kinds1 public and private4 ,the first belonged to the republic1 and formed part of the emperor's domain2 malefactors were condemned to labour in the salt-works1 and it was generally women on whom this punishment was inflicted4,,xxiii-#aa ,ancus ,martius was also the first who placed a duty on salt4 ,it was abolished after the expulsion of the ,kings1 but was afterwards again established4 ,down to the #adth century salt was a commodity of trade open to every one in ,france4 ,philip the ,long and ,philip of ,valois were the first to impose a momentary tax on it2 but after the fatal battle of ,poictiers1 in which ,john was taken prisoner1 ,charles1 his son1 in order to pay the ransom of that monarch1 had recourse1 among other extraordinary means1 to the establishment of the salt tax4 ,the idea was found to be good1 and it has never since been given up4,,xxiii-#ab ,there are four sorts of salt which are employed to season dishes1 obtained either from the evaporation of sea water1 from certain lakes or salt marshes1 and also from saliferous sources drawn out of the bosom of the earth in compact masses4 ,its particular savour is well known2 it is soluble in water1 and easily becomes damp4 ,in the scientific language1 this substance is called hydrochlorate of soda4 ,,brine4 ,this was water in which bay salt had been dissolved4 ,at ,rome1 it was served at table to be mixed with the meat precisely in the same manner as we serve salt in salt-cellars4 ,the ,romans plunged in this muria any fish or meat they might wish to preserve4,,xxiii-#ac ,strong muria dura was water so completely saturated with bay salt1 that no more could be dissolved in it4,,xxiii-#ad ,olives were washed in it4 ,the brine most sought after was that of ,antibes1 of ,thurium1 and of ,dalmatia4,,xxiii-#ae ,it was prepared with the blood and other juices which1 after death1 escaped from the tunny fish1,,xxiii-#af mixed with garum1 which rendered it more fluid and less expensive4 ,at the end of the repast1 enigmas were often proposed to the guests4 ,some delicious dish served as a reward to those who were fortunate enough to guess them2 the others were compelled to pour muria into their drink1 and swallow a cup-full without taking breath4,,xxiii-#ag ,,digestive ,,salts4 ,the ,romans were enormous eaters4 ,apicius1 who was better aware of it than any one1 imagined providing against those accidents to which his countrymen did not fear to expose themselves once every day1 by offering to them a preparation which our habits of sobriety would1 doubtless1 render useless at the present day2 but which the curious will not be sorry to discover in these sketches of antique gastrophagy4 ,take a pound of common salt1 which torrefy and pulverize2 mix it with three ounces of white pepper1 two ounces of ginger1 an ounce of lamoni1 an ounce and a half of thyme1 as much of celery seed1 three ounces of wild marjoram1 an ounce and a-half of rocket seed1 three ounces of black pepper1 an ounce and a-half of holy thistle1 two ounces of hyssop1 two ounces of spikenard1 two ounces of parsley1 and two ounces of anise-seed4,,xxiii-#ah ,take a small quantity of these salts after a too plentiful dinner2 and the stomach will immediately defy the most imminent indigestion4 ,,garum4 ,when we have read all that has been written by the ancients on this famous preparation1 we become convinced1 in spite of the obscurities and continual contradictions of commentators1 that if garum is no longer manufactured in the present day1 it is not on account of the impossibility we find in discovering the recipe of the ,greeks and ,latins1 but solely because this rather strange brine has not the same charm for us that it had for them4 ,let us1 however1 scan the authorities4 ,the ,greeks called the shrimp garos1 the ,romans garus3 it may hence be supposed that garum had originally for basis the flesh of shrimps1 if ,pliny had not taken the trouble to inform us of the fact4,,xxiii-#ai ,it was afterwards composed of other fish1 but it always retained the name which recalled its origin4,,xxiii-#bj ,in like manner the signification of certain words is now applied to things quite different from the original type3 chicory1 or succory1 is received under the mask of coffee3 a certain pottage boldly usurps the honours due exclusively to turtle soup4 ,nothing more easy than to multiply these examples of catachreses3 there are few figures which have become so common4 ,well1 then1 they macerated the intestines of fish in water1 saturated with salt1 until putrefaction began to show itself2 they then added parsley and vinegar4,,xxiii-#ba ,a thick garum was also frequently obtained1 by allowing the entrails and other parts1 generally thrown away1 to liquefy in salt4,,xxiii-#bb ,in the time of ,pliny1 mackerel,,xxiii-#bc was preferred1 of which they employed either the gills and intestines1 or only the blood1 directly the fish left the water1,,xxiii-#bd and while yet living4 ,they thus obtained a precious liquid1 and which the care necessary for its production rendered so dear1 that eight pints of it cost no less than from fifteen to twenty pounds4,,xxiii-#be ,this expensive garum was especially esteemed when it came from ,spain3 it was then called 8garum of the allies0--garum sociorum--because it was received from a nation allied with the ,romans2,,xxiii-#bf or1 again1 perhaps in allusion to the 8band of gluttons10 of ,rome1 a sort of fraternity of free-livers1 who made great use of it4,,xxiii-#bg ,the blood and entrails of the tunny fish1 mixed with salt in a vase1 produced also a most elaborate garum4 ,a hole was made in the vessel at the expiration of two months1 and the rich seasoning flowed from it4,,xxiii-#bh ,this brine became exquisite1 and obtained an exorbitant price when made from the liver of anchovies macerated in vinegar1 pepper1 salt1 parsley1 garlic1 white wine1 and sweet herbs4,,xxiii-#bi ,but ,apicius attained at the first step the apogee of refinement of the most sensual gluttony1 by inventing garum made from the liver of red mullet4,,xxiii-#cj ,what we have already said elsewhere with regard to this fish will enable the reader to appreciate the value of this new preparation4 ,amateurs who were more economical contented themselves with very little saxatile fishes1,,xxiii-#ca of which only the intestines were taken1 or which were thrown whole into a vase with a great quantity of salt4 ,these were exposed to the sun1 and the mixture long and often stirred4 ,when heat had caused fermentation1 and the vessel contained only a kind of pulp1 or paste1 almost liquid1 a kind of willow basket was introduced1 into which the garum alone could penetrate4 ,the thick part--the dregs which remained at the bottom of the vase--was termed alec4,,xxiii-#cb ,the following method was also frequently adopted3-- ,mackerel1 or small fish1 were placed in a small vase with a large quantity of salt2 this was well stirred1 and the mixture was then left quiet all night4 ,the next day it was transferred into an earthen pot1 which remained uncovered in the sun4 ,at the end of two or three months1 it was hermetically closed1 after having added a quantity of old wine equal to one-third of the mixture4,,xxiii-#cc ,when it was wished to obtain garum without waiting any length of time1 they took brine1 carefully filtered1 and so saturated with salt that an egg would float on it2 this was placed with the fish in a new saucepan2 wild marjoram was added1 and the whole boiled over a gentle fire1 until the fish was entirely dissolved4 ,then wine1 reduced to two-thirds by boiling1 was added4 ,it was left to get cold2 the liquid was several times filtered1 till it became quite clear1 and was then finally placed in an uncovered vase4,,xxiii-#cd ,although fish was generally used1 the flesh of several animals was sometimes employed in the formation of garum4,,xxiii-#ce ,it was1 however1 submitted to the same preparations as those already mentioned4 ,such was this wonderful seasoning1 forming the chief delight of the ancients1 whose praises poets have sung1 and the composition of which formerly exercised the singularly mad intelligence of ,matre ,franois ,rabelais4 ,the reader will doubtless remark1 that the principal elements of garum are almost invariably the same3 fish1 salt1 and a greater or less fermentation4 ,but perhaps some one may exclaim3 8,this must be detestable60 ,no doubt1 but then no one ever thought of regaling himself with this liquid2 it was never taken alone2 it was but reserved as a seasoning for a host of dishes1 in order to heighten their flavour4 ,it must also be observed1 that a skilful cook always took care to modify the garum before he sent it to table1 by the help of various ingredients1 such as pepper1 vinegar1 ,falernian wine1,,xxiii-#cf water1 and oil1,,xxiii-#cg according to the use to which it was destined1 or the degree of strength it was expedient it should possess4 ,hence that variety of seasonings with garum1--sweet1,,xxiii-#ch sharp1 mixed with water1 wine1 vinegar1 and many other substances which changed or corrected the acid flavour of the primitive condiment1,,xxiii-#ci though without in the least depriving it of the qualities which fermentation had communicated to it4 ,it results from the different citations of which this chapter is composed1 that recipes for the making of garum are to be obtained more easily than people seem to think at the present time4 ,everyone may not be of the same opinion with regard to the kind of fish generally used by the ancients to obtain this liquid1 although all difficulties would be removed by admitting--which certainly is nothing but right--that they chose at one time mackerel or tunny fish2 at others1 gudgeons and small sardines2 sometimes even the red mullet1 in spite of its rarity and price4 ,but it is evident that garum was prepared by either dissolving and liquefying these fish in their brine1 either whole1 their intestines1 or their liver1 and that1 to effect this1 it was only necessary to expose to the sun the vessel containing them2 or that they simply put small fish into a dish1 with vinegar and parsley1 placed it on a charcoal fire1 and stirred it for some time1 when it was wanted for immediate use4 ,it must have been remarked in reading this work1 that ,apicius very frequently employs garum2 he places it in every sauce1 but never makes use of this seasoning unmixed1 never does he serve it by itself as a special dish4 ,this celebrated gastronomist has bequeathed us the recipe for a digestive garum4 ,it is as follows3-- ,mix with some honey1 half an ounce of pepper1 three scruples of eschalots1 six scruples of cardamum1 one scruple of spikenard1 and six scruples of mint2 add vinegar to this mixture1 and then pour in some garum4,,xxiii-#dj ,the ,hypotrimma1 or stomachic condiment1 of the same master1 merits also our attention3--,mix carefully some pepper1 benzoin1 mint1 pine-nuts1 dried raisins1 and dates1 with fresh 7not salt7 cheese1 vinegar1 oil1 honey1 and wine1 reduced by boiling to one half2 add garum to this mixture4,,xxiii-#da ,the ,moretaria appears to be a variety of the ,hypotrimma2 it is a mixture of mint1 rue1 coriander1 fennel1 the whole fresh1 with benzoin1 pepper1 honey1 and vinegar2 to this1 garum is added4,,xxiii-#db ,whatever may be the opinion the reader may form of this garum1 of which mention has so frequently been made1 and which has been alternately praised and despised by the moderns1 it is certain that the most fastidious persons were madly fond of it1 and that in the time of ,pliny1 it was so much esteemed1 that its price equalled that of the most precious perfumes4 8,at the present day this celebrated seasoning is forgotten in ,italy1 but in ,turkey it is still in use4 ,the inn-keepers of ,constantinople preserve in garum the cooked fish not consumed in the day40--,,bosc4 ,,honey4 ,what is sweeter than honey8,,xxiii-#dc what is more pure1,,xxiii-#dd or more nourishing8,,xxiii-#de ,it is the milk of the aged1 it prolongs their existence1,,xxiii-#df and when they descend into the tomb1 it still serves to embalm them4,,xxiii-#dg ,pagan antiquity ascribed the honour of the discovery of this useful substance to the ,athenian ,aristus1 who taught mankind to feed on it4 ,this valuable service procured him a patent of nobility4 ,he was made a descendant of ,bacchus or ,apollo4,,xxiii-#dh ,it is not necessary to say that honey was known in the east long before the rise of ,athens2 it is already mentioned in the first book of the holy writings4,,xxiii-#di ,it is said that ,spain owed its knowledge of this delicious aliment to ,gorgor1 ,king of the ,curetes1 who was polite enough to take some on the occasion of a journey which he made into that country4,,xxiii-#ej ,the ,peninsula could afterwards furnish this delicacy for the tables of ,rome and ,italy4 ,the ,greeks esteemed honey most highly2,,xxiii-#ea they employed it in pastry1 and in ragots2,,xxiii-#eb their philosopher1 ,pythagoras1 eat nothing else with his bread1 and1 as he lived to be ninety years old1 he recommended his disciples to follow the same rgime4,,xxiii-#ec ,they profited by th sage's counsel1 and found themselves all the better for it4,,xxiii-#ed ,a benevolent goddess protected bees1 hives1 and the honeycomb4 ,she was called ,mellona1 and a grateful piety offered her honey every new-year's day4,,xxiii-#ee ,theophrastus distinguished three kinds of honey3 that which the bees extract from flowers1 that which comes from the air1 and lastly1 the honey from reeds4,,xxiii-#af ,we clearly perceive that he means honey1 manna1 and sugar4 ,virgil thought that a gentle dew falls on the flowers1 and became immediately the prey of bees1 which deposited it in their cells4,,xxiii-#ag ,pliny has adopted the same graceful error1,,xxiii-#ah and even ,galen himself partakes of it4,,xxiii-#ai ,the ancients caused honey to be served at the beginning of a repast2,,xxiii-#fj it was used in lieu of sugar in the preparation of preserves and some kinds of beverages1 which will hereafter claim our attention4 ,they preferred that of ,attica1,,xxiii-#fa and insisted on its being thick1 clear1 granulated1 transparent1 fresh1 and aromatic1 with a somewhat sharp flavour4,,xxiii-#fb ,the faculty attributed to it great virtues4,,xxiii-#fc ,honey served as a basis to the wonderful seasoning of ,apicius1 which we present to the studious investigation of modern gastronomy3--,put fifteen pounds of honey into a brass vessel1 containing two pints of wine4 ,warm at a very gentle fire1 stir1 and when it rises1 pour over more wine4 ,let the mixture rise three times1 then take it from the fire1 and skim it the next day4 ,then add four ounces of ground pepper1 three scruples of gum1 a drachm of spikenard1 a drachm of saffron1 five drachms of dried dates1 after softening them in wine2 pour on the whole eighteen pints of light wine4,,xxiii-#fd ,the ,oxyporon was another seasoning much in vogue two thousand years ago1 and in which honey was the principal ingredient4 ,it was composed by mixing two ounces of cummin seed1 one ounce of ginger1 one ounce of green rue1 and six scruples of nitre1 with one ounce of pepper1 and twelve scruples of fine dates2 nine ounces of honey were then poured over the whole4,,xxiii-#fe ,sometimes they contented themselves with macerating cummin seed in vinegar1 which they left to dry1 and then pounded it2 that done1 it was put into honey4,,xxiii-#ff 8,the honey most esteemed is the white1 granulated1 and of an aromatic flavour4 ,the honey from the ,french provinces of ,narbonne1 the ,gatinais1 or ,britanny1 is the most esteemed4 ,honey is next of kin to sugar1 having the same properties4 ,it is frequently used in domestic economy1 and in medicine as a laxative4 ,it enters into a number of remedies1 either as a corrective1 or an excipient40--8,dictio4 ,encycl40 ,,sugar4 ,theophrastus1 the first among the ancients who speaks of sugar1 classes it among the number of honeys4,,xxiii-#fg ,dioscorides also calls it 8honey of reeds20 he adds that these reeds grow in ,india1 or in ,arabia ,felix1 and that the agreeable substance they contain has some analogy with salt4,,xxiii#fh ,pliny also gives it the same name4 ,it is1 according to this naturalist1 a kind of honey1 with which certain reeds are filled1 and used only in medicine4,,xxiii-#fi ,this was also the opinion of many ancient authors2,,xxiii-#gj one of whom1 ,paul ,eginetta1 calls sugar--,indian salt4,,xxiii-#ga ,the sugar cane appears to be originally a native of the ,east ,indies4 ,from the most remote ages the ,chinese have understood the art of cultivating it4 ,the histories of the ,egyptians1 ,phnicians1 and ,jews1 make no mention of it4 ,the ,greek physicians are the first who speak of it4 ,it was not till the year #adga that a ,venetian discovered the method of purifying brown sugar and making loaf sugar4 ,he gained an immense fortune by this discovery4,,xxiii-#gb ,sugar cane1 well purified1 and disburthened of all foreign matter1 is white1 solid1 inodorous1 soluble in water1 of a soft and agreeable savour4 ,its specific gravity is #a4fjfe2 it is used as a seasoning in a multitude of dishes1 in preparing syrups1 preserving of fruits1 c41 c4 ,,cinnamon4 ,in the time of ,theophrastus1 it was said that cinnamon grew in a dark and silent valley1 guarded night and day by fearful serpents4 ,animated by the hope of gain1 some individuals1 careless of their existence1 risked their lives by gathering some of this precious bark4 ,when they had the good luck to avoid the vigilant reptiles1 they consecrated to the sun part of their booty1 which the radiant orb immediately consumed to prove his acceptance of the offering4,,xxiii-#gc ,others1 thinking this little tale on the subject of cinnamon rather too dramatic1 pretended that the shrub furnishing it was found only on high mountains1 to which man was forbidden all access4 ,but fortunately certain birds--the phoenix1 among others--great amateurs of aromatics1 make their nests of its small branches2 these nests are taken1 and in this manner1 whether the year be good or bad1 a sufficient stock of cinnamon is obtained without much trouble4,,xxiii-#gd ,pliny recognises two kinds of it--one white1 the other black1 both of which were brought to ,rome from ,ethiopia1 in the reign of ,vespasian4,,xxiii-#ge ,eighty years after 7,a4,d4 #afd71 ,galen informs us that cinnamon was still very scarce in ,italy2 that the ,emperors alone possessed any2 and that they even preserved it among the curiosities they made it their pleasure to collect and keep in their palaces4,,xxiii-#gf ,the same writer regards this so precious and uncommon cinnamon as an excellent cordial and a good digestive4,,xxiii-#gg ,we may add that it was only well known in ,europe after the frequent voyages of the ,portuguese to ,india4,,xxiii-#gh ,however1 in #aafh1 an abbot of ,st4 ,gilles1 in ,languedoc1 having a favour to ask of ,louis-le-,jeune1 thought there was no better means of persuading him to grant it than to send him a small stock of cinnamon4,,xxiii-#gi ,our forefathers 7in the middle ages7 had their tables furnished with cinnamon sauce2 nutmeg1 mustard1 and garlic sauces2 cold sauces2 parsley and vinegar sauces1 hot sauces1 hell sauces1 burgher sauces2 cherry1 plum1 mulberry1 grape1 gorse1 rose1 and flower sauces4 ,they were served with roast meat4 ,cinnamon is daily employed in medicine1 in diarrha1 several fevers1 c41 c41 and in pharmacy4 ,that from ,china is much thicker than the others1 its colour darker1 and its odour more powerful2 essential oil is drawn from it1 and preserved in flagons1 sealed with the arms of government1 and sold at a very high price4 ,,cloves4 ,cloves were very little known to the ancients4 ,theophrastus1 ,dioscorides1 and ,galen do not speak of them4 ,pliny says that some cloves were brought to ,rome1 very similar to grains of pepper but a little longer2 that they were only to be found in ,india1 in a wood consecrated to the gods2 and that they served in the fabrication of perfumes4,,xxiii-#hj ,the conquest of ,india by the ,portuguese rendered them common throughout ,europe4 ,cloves contain a considerable quantity of essential aromatic oil1 thick1 brown1 and very heavy1 to which it owes its aromatic properties and sharp burning savour4 ,cloves are employed as a seasoning or as medicine4 ,,pepper4 ,the two great cities of antiquity knew how to appreciate pepper1 and employed it largely in their culinary labours4 ,they distinguished two kinds3 one round1 the other long and thin4,,xxiii-#ha ,dioscorides and ,pliny describe the shrub1 on which are to be seen pods filled with seeds of pepper1 resembling millet1 according to the first of these writers1 and like small beans1 according to the other4,,xxiii-#hb ,our readers no doubt remember the importance which ,apicius ascribes to pepper1 in the learned recipes of that skilful ,archimagirus4 ,,verjuice4 ,verjuice1 the use of which is very ancient1 was used more in pharmaceutical preparations than in the seasoning of food4,,xxiii-#hc ,galen attributes to it refreshing qualities1 and advises it in certain cases4,,xxiii-#hd ,verjuice is a kind of grape1 very acid1 and which never gets perfectly ripe4 ,the suc of verjuice is used in medicine and culinary preparation as an astringent4 ,the juice is not proper to make wine1 but a very agreeable syrup is obtained from it4 ,,vinegar4 ,the greater part of ancient nations were acquainted with the use of vinegar4 ,reapers in the east soaked their bread in it1 to freshen it,,xxiii-#he ,the ,greeks esteemed that of ,cnide1 of ,sphette1 of ,cleone1 and above all the vinegar of ,egypt1,,xxiii-#hf which was reputed to be the best among the ,romans1 who tempered its acrimony by mixing with it some sweet substance4,,xxiii-#hg ,these masters of the world did not fancy they possessed all the comforts of life when they wanted vinegar2 therefore they always had a large provision of it in their cellars1 as all their seasonings proved4,,xxiii-#hh ,this passion 7for it certainly amounted to a passion7 is easily explained by the admirable qualities they attributed to the pungent liquid4 ,it was believed to be astringent1 digestive1 antibilious1 refreshing1 and an antiscorbutic4,,xxiii-#hi ,mixed with water1 it was the drink of the soldiers1,,xxiii-#ij who1 thanks to this beverage1 braved the intemperance of the seasons and the different climates of ,europe1 ,africa1 and ,asia4 ,the ,greeks and ,romans esteemed highly their pickles3 these consisted of flowers1 herbs1 roots1 and vegetables1 preserved in vinegar1 and which kept a long time in cylindrical vases with wide mouths4,,xxiii-#ia ,they were prepared with the greatest care2 and these plants were often macerated in oil1 brine1 and vinegar1 with which they were impregnated drop by drop4,,xxiii-#ib ,meat1 also1 cut in very small pieces1 was treated in the same manner4 ,vinegar of an exorbitant price was obtained from some precious wines1 and that price was again increased by the proverbial cupidity of some butlers in great houses4 ,we doubt much1 however1 whether any of those worthy personages ever made such a bill as a certain ,french seigneur dared to do under the reign of ,louis ,,xiii4 ,it is said that the ,duc de la ,meilleraye1 grand master of the artillery of ,france1 presented to the minister a bill in which figured an article of #a1cjj1jjj francs 7#eb1jjj71 for vinegar to cool the cannons6 ,the sum appeared rather large1 but ,la ,meilleraye was a near relation of ,richelieu1 and the article passed without the least contestation4,,xxiii-#ic ,,truffle4 ,a truffled turkey was to be eaten at a dinner where ,buffon was invited4 ,a few minutes before setting down to table1 an elderly lady inquired of the celebrated naturalist where the truffle grew4 8,at your feet1 madame40 ,the lady did not understand2 but it was thus explained to her3 8,c'est au pied des charmes0 7yoke elm tree74 ,the compliment appeared to her most flattering4 ,towards the end of the dinner1 some one asked the same question of the illustrious writer1 who1 forgetting that the lady was beside him1 innocently replied3 8,they grow aux pieds des vieux charmes0 7old yoke elm trees74 ,the lady overheard him1 and no longer thought anything of his amiability4 ,nevertheless ,buffon was right4 ,it was around the yoke elm trees of ,lampsachus1 ,acarnidea1 ,alopecomesia1 and ,elis1 that those famous truffles were discovered1 whose reputation was spread in all parts and which ,italy envied ,greece4,,xxiii-#id ,the truffle6 beloved treasure that the earth conceals within her bosom--as she does the precious metals1 which she seems to have yielded grudgingly to the patient researches of the gastronomist2 the magiric records do not tell us at what memorable epoch this exquisite tubercle astonished1 for the first time1 the palate of man2 but a doubtful tradition maintains that a vile animal 7a pig71 guided by his marvellous gluttony1 found out the existence of this pearl of banquets4 ,pliny was very much inclined to range the truffles amidst astonishing prodigies4 ,he fancied that he saw it at its birth increase without roots1 without the slightest fibre1 without the least capillary vessel likely to transmit to it nutritious juices2,,xxiii-#ie therefore he believed that1 sown by thunder-bolts in the autumnal storms1,,xxiii-#if this daughter of thunder grew like minerals by juxta-position1 and relates on this subject the history of ,lartius ,licinius1 governor of ,spain1 who1 while biting a truffle with avidity1 broke one of his teeth against a ,roman denarius which chance alone had inclosed within it4,,xxiii-#ig ,the ,greeks thought a great deal of a delicious species of truffles1 smooth outside1 red within1 which were found just under the surface of the ground1 and did not show the slightest appearance of vegetation4,,xxiii-#ih ,another kind was also much sought after by amateurs1 probably on account of their scarcity4 ,they were originally from ,africa1 and called cyrenac1 white outside1 of an excellent perfume1 and exquisite flavour4,,xxiii-#ii ,the ,athenians1 enlightened appreciates of all sorts of merits1 accepted with gratitude a ragot with truffles1 invented by ,cherips4 ,that culinary genius did not long enjoy his glory2 a premature death carried him off from his stoves1 his honours1 and his fortune2 but the ,greeks did not bury their gratitude in his tomb2 his sons became citizens of ,athens1 and the name of their father1 more fortunate than that of ,christopher ,columbus1 clung for ever to his brilliant discovery4,,xxiii-#ajj ,the doctors of other days did not exactly agree upon the quality either good or bad of truffles4 ,philoxenes1 whose opinion met with many partisans1 would have it that a great quantity should be eaten cooked under the ashes1 and deliciously impregnated with a succulent sauce4,,xxiii-#aja ,it was1 however1 recommended to choose them with the most particular attention1 because some had the reputation of being as poisonous as mushrooms4,,xxiii-#ajb ,the ,romans were as fond of truffles as the ,greeks1 and that is not saying little4,,xxiii-#ajc ,apicius gives a method of preparing them which is as follows3-- ,after they are boiled in water1 put a little stick through them1 and then place them for an instant before the fire2 season them afterwards with oil1 a little meat gravy1 some skirrets1 wine1 pepper1 and honey1 in proper proportions4 ,when the sauce is boiling1 make a thickening1 and serve4,,xxiii-#ajd ,the illustrious epicurean prepared them also with pepper1 benzoin1 coriander and rue1 to which he added a little honey1 oil1 and gravy4,,xxiii-#aje ,the estimable ,platina insists that1 in the first place1 truffles should be washed in wine1 and afterwards cooked under the ashes2 and that they be served hot1 and sprinkled over with salt and pepper4,,xxiii-#ajf ,this is the composition of a syrup of truffles1 taken from the old ,arabian medicine4 ,we believe it to be very little known1 and should not be surprised if it were1 some day1 to obtain the renown it seems to deserve4 ,it was composed of truffles1 balm1 and holy thistle1 boiled in water with sugar2 and to each pound of the decoction was added one scruple of water distilled from honey1 and half an ounce of some spirit--say1 for example1 spirits of wine--to each pound of liquor4 ,the whole was aromatised with musk and a little rose-water4 ,two ounces of this syrup were administered hot1,,xxiii-#ajg in cases of weakness4 ,salmasius1 who knew much of the ,greek tongue1 and very little of cookery1 avers that the ancients knew two different kinds of truffles4 ,one species was similar to ours1 and the other a variety from ,africa1 already mentioned1 white outside and the size of a quince4,,xxiii-#ajh ,leo the ,african1 says that the ,arabs cook these truffles in milk1 and that they think them exquisite4 ,thereupon ,salmasius exclaims against the insipidity of this dish1 or the ignorance of ,leo the ,african2 and immediately points out1 with an air of triumph1 the celebrated ,avicenna1 who informs us that1 after the truffles were peeled and cut in small pieces1 they were cooked in water and salt1 and then dished up with oil1 benzoin1 and spices4 ,salmasius will have it that ,avicenna's truffles had no other flavour than that given by the sauce1 and he has no forgiveness for those poor ,arabs who dared to dress them otherwise4 ,if this clever ,hellenist had studied this savoury tubercle with as much care as he bestowed on the writers of the history of ,augustus1 he would have learned that the peculiar perfume which distinguishes it retains1 in the midst of seasoning the most laboriously prepared1 the same power it possesses when eaten by itself1 and without any dressing4 ,apicius had less of literature than ,salmasius1 but he was most assuredly gifted in a very superior degree with that mens divinior which makes great cooks and illustrious poets4 ,this assimilation has nothing surprising in it1 if we only remember that genius is nothing else than the faculty of producing2 and who ever bequeathed to posterity productions more exquisite than those of ,archestrates and ,apicius8 ,let us hear from this latter how to preserve truffles4 ,you must be careful not to put them in contact with water2 that is to say1 that they ought to be kept very dry4 ,they are placed separately in vessels1 and covered with iron filings1 or saw-dust4 ,close each vessel hermetically with plaster1 and keep them in a dark and cool place4,,xxiii-#aji ,the truffle is a very remarkable vegetable1 which1 without stems1 roots1 or fibres1 grows of itself1 isolated in the bosom of the earth1 absorbing the nutritive juice4 ,its form is round1 more or less regular2 its surface is smooth or tuberculous2 the colour dark-brown outside1 brown1 grey1 or white within4 ,its tissue is formed of articulated filaments1 between which are spheric vesicles1 and in the interior are placed reproductive bodies1 small brown spheres1 called truffinelles4 ,truffles vegetate to the depth of five or six inches in the high sandy soils of the south-west of ,france1 of ,piedmont1 c41 c4 ,their mode of vegetation and reproduction is not known4 ,dogs are trained to find them1 as well as pigs1 and boars also1 who are very fond of them4 ,they are eaten cooked under the ashes1 or in wine and water4 ,they are preserved1 when prepared in oil1 which is soon impregnated with their odour4 ,poultry is stuffed with them1 also geese's livers1 pies1 and cooked pork1 besides numerous ragots4 ,they possess1 it is said1 exciting virtues4 ,,mushrooms4 ,agrippina1 desirous of securing the crown to her worthy son1 ,nero1 went to a celebrated female poisoner1 and procured a venomous preparation which defied the most powerful antidotes4,,xxiii-#aaj ,the ,princess slipped this terrible poison in a very fine morel 7a species of mushroom71 which ,claudius eat at his supper4 ,the unfortunate ,emperor died according to the desire of his amiable consort1 who was1 of course1 inconsolable for a long time1 and placed among the gods the husband she had murdered4,,xxiii-#aaa ,nero ascended the throne1 and every time that mushrooms were served at his table1 true to the memory of his father-in-law1 he facetiously called this preparation the 8dish of the gods40,,xxiii-#aab ,to the poisonous effects of this vegetable have been attributed1 also1 the death of the ,emperor ,tiberius1 that of ,pope ,clement ,,vii41 ,king ,charles ,,vi4 of ,france1 and many other important personages1 who either knew very little of good cooks1 or of morels4 ,notwithstanding these tragical events1 mushrooms always retained a proud position1 among the ancients1 above the most inoffensive culinary plants2 and their rather doubtful reputation has not prevented them from maintaining their ground down to our time1 for we find that they now claim the same rank which they formerly occupied in the gastronomic runions of ,athens and ,rome3 a sad image of those fortunate criminals1 whom society dreads1 and yet often loads with its favours4 ,this 8voluptuous poison10 as ,seneca1 the philosopher1,,xxiii-#aac calls it1 which compels us to eat of it again1 even when not hungry1,,xxiii-#aad was much relished by the wealthy inhabitants of ,rome and ,italy4 ,these free-livers1 careless of the morrow1 preferred the field mushroom1,,xxiii-#aae which they devoured with delight1 having previously covered it over with a pungent sauce1 which they afterwards neutralized with various iced beverages4,,xxiii-#aaf ,it is true that this dish1 worthy of the gods1 often inflicted a severe penalty on those who yielded to its irresistible seduction2 but what mortal could think of the anguish of an uncertain poisoning1 when he had the good luck to meet with some boleti1 or mushrooms1 of the rarest description1 which the price of a beautiful toga would hardly have purchased1,,xxiii-#aag and which promised some mouthfuls of ineffable1 although ephemeral enjoyment8 ,besides1 does not pleasure possess more piquant charms when danger is attached to it8 ,the greater part of mushrooms are very dangerous1 say the ancients2,,xxiii-#aah but blind destiny1 perhaps1 reserves for us certain kinds which are not so4 ,re-assured by this judicious reflection1 they gave orders to their cooks to stew some1,,xxiii-#aai and season them with vinegar1 oxymel1 and honey4,,xxiii-#abj ,however1 reasonable people--and there were still some to be found--abstained entirely from this vegetable1 or procured it by the method which ,nicander recommends2 that is to say1 they frequently watered the trunk of a fig tree after manure had been placed around it4 ,that philosopher assures us that by these means we may grow mushrooms perfectly wholesome4,,xxiii-#aba ,those of our readers who are in possession of fig trees will be able to give their opinion on the merit of ,nicander's method4 ,to obtain the seeds of most mushrooms1 it only requires to expose them1 when fresh1 upon glass2 the superficies of the glass is soon covered with it4 ,it is also obtained by shaking in the water the mushrooms which are sufficiently developed4 ,this water1 thus impregnated1 is used to water the beds1 which become thereby more productive4 ,the natural supply of mushrooms from the fields not being thought sufficient1 the art of raising them on beds during the whole year was therefore indispensable1 and required a mixture of crottin de cheval1 rotten dung1 and mould1 which is deposited in layers of one foot and a-half in thickness and width4 ,seeds of mushrooms are sown on these beds--that is to say1 some of the mould of a former bog impregnated with it4 ,it is then covered over with all the dung not consumed1 and then copiously watered4 8,at the end of a very few days1 the beds begin to produce mushrooms1 and keep on producing until the winter40--,,bosc4 ,,xxiv4 ,,pastry4 ,the art of the pastry-cook consists in preparing certain delicate and nice pastes in all sorts of shapes1 in seasoning them with discretion1 and in sufficient quantity1 with meat1 butter1 sugar1 preserves1 c4,,xxiv-#a ,it is a most important branch of the culinary science2 unceasingly occupied with flattering the sight as much as the taste1 it raises graceful monuments1 delicious fortresses1 seductive ramparts1 which as soon as they are on all sides attacked1 totter1 crumble1 and no longer present anything but glorious and ephemeral ruins1 like every other work of man--all pass away whether they be temples1 columns1 pyramids1 or pies4 ,this charming art was known to ancient nations as soon as their intellectual development had enabled them to understand a certain gastronomic truth1 long since become a trivial axiom1 and of which we dare scarcely remind the reader3 8,on ne mange pour vivre que lorsqu'on ne sait pas vivre pour manger40 7,people only eat to live when they do not understand how to live to eat47 ,the oriental nations were acquainted with the art of making pastry at a very early period4 ,the ,egyptians served many different sorts of cakes at their tables2,,xxiv-#b the ,jews knew of at least three kinds--one sort kneaded with oil1 another fried in oil1 and the last was merely rubbed over with oil4,,xxiv-#c ,the enlightened gluttony of the ,greeks and ,romans inspired them with a host of combinations more or less ingenious1 and destined to revive a failing appetite1 or one already greatly compromised by vigorous onslaughts4 ,some of these pastries would appear very nice to us in the present day2 others we should think but little worthy of the epicures of ,rome and ,athens4 ,however1 let us not be in too great a hurry to condemn these great masters4 ,doubtless they had excellent reasons to like that which modern taste may despise and dislike4 ,in return1 they might have thought some of our most fashionable dishes detestable2 perhaps ,apicius might have made a strange grimace at the sight of a dish of sour-crout1 an olla-podrida1 or an immense plum-pudding4 ,oublies1 a light dainty for those who have weak stomachs1 were thin sheets of paste composed of flour and honey1 which rolled into a spiral form as soon as they approached the oven4 ,they were eaten soaked in cooked wine4,,xxiv-#d ,persons of taste preferred oublies to fritters--a bold mixture of flour kneaded with wine1 seasoned with pepper1 and then worked up with milk1 and1 finally1 with a little fat or oil4,,xxiv-#e ,some cooks employed the finest flour only1 mixed with oil1 and served this paste after having cooked it in a dish4,,xxiv-#f ,others worked sesame flour a long time with honey and oil1 and fried it4,,xxiv-#g ,these various kinds of fritters were1 doubtless1 much sought after by the populace1 for ,cicero speaks of them with profound disdain4,,xxiv-#h ,the ,jews1 less dainty than the eloquent orator1 offered some of this paste in sacrifice4 ,the recipe for its composition is given in ,leviticus2 it was made of the finest flour1 moistened with oil1 and cooked in the frying-pan4,,xxiv-#i ,women and children--those two fragile roots of society--were always fond of sweet and delicate cakes4 ,the pastry-cooks of ,attica prepared for them some very excellent kinds2 sometimes it was merely a sweet mixture of honey and milk2,,xxiv-#aj others were made of honey1 sesame flour1 and cheese or oil4,,xxiv-#aa ,delicious fruit was frequently covered with a light and perfumed paste4,,xxiv-#ab ,these ,athenian dumplings met with a great success4 ,rome made the conquest of these precious recipes1,,xxiv-#ac and vanquished ,greece1 conquered by her1 had still the glory of dictating laws to her haughty enemy3 she imposed her cookery4 ,gingerbread was not unknown to the ancients4 ,rhodes owed its reputation to it4 ,it was sweetened with honey1 and that island furnished it to the whole of ,europe4 ,the ,greeks called this delicacy ,melitates1 and eat it with pleasure at the close of their repasts4,,xxiv-#ad ,let us not forget1 in this rapid survey of ancient sweets1 that learned and exquisite mixture now designated under the name of ,nougat1 which1 among the ,greeks was composed of dried currants and almonds1 and which has lost none of its attractions1 nothing of its celebrity1 after so many centuries4,,xxiv-#ae ,the ,mustaceum did not deserve to occupy so high a standing2 and yet this rustic cake1 composed of sweet wine and flour1 a symbol of abundance and happiness1 never failed to be presented to the guests at a wedding repast1 and the newly-married pair sent a piece of it to each of their absent parents or friends1 who1 in return1 addressed them congratulations1 and wishes for their happiness4,,xxiv-#af ,the mustaceum was the wedding-cake of the ,romans4 ,modern civilization has also rejected with equal disdain the ,savillum pie1 always eaten with pleasure by the voluptuous inhabitants of ,rome when they went to their villas in order to rest from their prodigious excesses1 and from the fatigues of intemperance4 ,this nourishing and agreeable dish required but little art in its composition4 ,half-a-pound of flour and two pounds and a-half of cheese were well mixed together2 three ounces of honey and one egg were then added4 ,when the whole had been well beaten1 it was placed in an earthen vessel rubbed over with oil1 and which was covered with a tart dish cover4 ,it was carefully watched to see that the process of cooking was going on2 afterwards it was taken from the dish1 the pie was smeared with honey1 and1 for an instant1 replaced under the tart-dish cover1 after having dredged the top with pounded poppy seed4 ,it was always served in the dish in which it had been cooked1 and was eaten with spoons4,,xxiv-#ag ,we have already mentioned the ,artocreas1 a kind of hashed meat mixed with bread1 which ,rome borrowed from ,greece1 together with its original name4 ,this pie1 welcomed by modern gastrophagy1 has reached our days with merely some slight modifications1 and deprived of its sonorous ,hellenic appellation4,,xxiv-#ah ,formerly the ,roman ,emperors1 for the greater part1 ruled badly2 but1 in return1 they eat well4 ,in that gastronomic era--gone1 never to return--,csar's supper engaged the attention of the court1 the city1 nay1 the whole empire4 ,the conquered universe furnished the details for a banquet1 and a royal hand sometimes deigned to write the ordinance4 ,now and then1 even the monarch1 wrapped in profound culinary meditations1 long reflected1 dictated to his ,archimagirus a new dish1 on which complaisant senators the next day bestowed enthusiastic praises and a sincere admiration4 ,thus the ,emperor ,verus1 inventor of a pie1 barely escaped an apotheosis of which his genius was deemed worthy4 ,it is true that1 without any exaggerated flattery1 this pie was excellent1 and that never was there imagined a more happy mixture1 a more ingenious combination1 of meats1 or a more refined flavour4 ,if any one be curious enough to wish to test this imperial dish1 let him prepare a succulent amalgamation of sow's flank 7sumen71 pheasant1 peacock1 iced ham1 and wild boar's flesh2 let him inclose this mixture within the thick casing of a laboriously worked crust1 and he may attack this kingly dish when a gentle and slow cooking causes it to emit burning yet sweet emanations4,,xxiv-#ai ,here is a more modest recipe for a cake2 but then it does not claim the paternity of an emperor4 ,however1 ,cato brought it much into fashion1 for the wise ,cato often busied himself in the science of cookery1 for which reason he is greatly worthy of esteem4 ,well1 we recommend to the reader the ,libum of that philosopher1 who indicates the manner of preparing it3-- 8,crush10 he says1 8two pounds of cheese2 mix with it a pound of rye flour1 or1 in order to render it lighter1 throw in merely half a pound of wheat flour and an egg4 ,stir1 mix1 and work this paste2 form of it a cake which you will place on leaves1 and cook in a tart dish on the hot hearth40 ,this libum was much esteemed about twenty centuries ago2 in honour of ,cato may it again be brought to light1 if not completely unworthy of our attention4,,xxiv-#bj ,could we not also rehabilitate the reputation of the most celebrated of ancient pies1 the ,placenta1 which so delighted mankind1 and by which the gods even allowed their fury to be appeased8,,xxiv-#ba ,renowned writers have granted it the authority of their praise2,,xxiv-#bb and the illustrious geoponist1 already cited1 describes with lengthened complaisance the manner of preparing this important dish3-- 8,place1 on one side1 two pounds of rye flour1 which will serve to form the foundation1 on which must be placed biscuits1 formed of crisp paste2 on the other1 put four pounds of wheat2 and two pounds of alica 7grains of fine wheat1 stripped of their husks and crushed2 to which was added1 in order to whiten them1 a peculiar kind of chalk found between ,naples and ,pouzzoli,,xxiv-#bc74 ,this latter must be left to infuse in water1 and1 when well soaked1 it must be thrown into a kneading trough1 and well worked with the hand4 ,you then mix with it the four pounds of wheat flour1 in order to make the whole into biscuits1 or dry marchpans4 ,this paste must be worked in a basket1 and1 as it dries1 each separate marchpan must be shaped4 ,when they have acquired a convenient form1 rub them on all sides with a piece of stuff soaked in oil1 and the same must be done to the foundation of the placenta before placing the marchpans on it4 ,during these preparations1 make the hearth very hot1 as well as the cover of the tart dish intended to cook it4 ,then spread the two pounds of rye flour you have in reserve over fourteen pounds of cheese of sheep's milk4 ,make of this a light paste for the foundation already mentioned4 ,this cheese ought to be very fresh1 and previously soaked in three waters4 ,it is allowed to drain slowly between the hands1 and when it has been left to dry1 it is kneaded4 ,take a flour sieve1 and pass the cheese through it before mixing it with the rye4 ,then add four pounds and a half of good honey2 mix well2 place the foundation1 furnished with its band1 on a board a foot square1 covered with bay leaves rubbed with oil1 and form the placenta4 ,begin by covering the whole of the base with a layer of marchpans1 which you place one after the other1 and cover slightly with cheese mixed with honey4 ,finally1 you arrange the marchpans on the foundation1 and prepare the hearth to a moderate degree of heat2 place the placenta on it2 cover it with the tart dish cover already heated1 and spread live charcoal underneath and all around4 ,the cooking must be done very slowly1 and as soon as the pie is taken from the hearth1 it must be rubbed with honey40,,xxiv-#bd ,the great desire we had to inform the reader of some of the methods of making ancient pastry will1 perhaps1 induce him to receive with indulgence the rather diffuse recipe of the worthy ,cato4 ,the following is much more concise2 it relates to the relishing ,globi1 little globes1 or balls1 eaten at dessert3 ,mix cheese and alica1 and of this mixture make the globi1 which cook one after the other1 or two at a time1 in boiling oil4 ,stir them constantly with a spoon2 take them out2 rub them over with honey1 and serve1 having previously dredged over them a little poppy-seed4,,xxiv-#be ,everyone will confess that all these cakes are inferior to the simple and elegant pastry with which the inhabitants of ,picenum 7marshes of ,ancona7 regaled themselves4 ,they placed some alica to soak in water1 and left it there for the space of nine days2 the tenth day they kneaded it1 and formed it into round1 flat cakes1 which they cooked in the oven in earthen baking-dishes easily broken4 ,when these kind of biscuits were to be eaten1 they were first softened in milk and honey4,,xxiv-#bf ,apicius also made globi of great delicacy with the crumb of fine bread1 shaped into balls1 which were left to soak in milk1 and which1 on their being withdrawn from the boiling oil1 he lightly covered with honey4,,xxiv-#bg ,we conclude with three recipes by this amateur cook1 in the hope that they may appear worthy of his genius3-- 8,mix pine nuts1 pepper1 honey1 rue1 and cooked wine2 cover with eggs well beaten2 submit this mixture to a slow fire1 and serve1 after having smeared it with honey40,,xxiv-#bh 8,cook the finest flour in some milk1 of which make a tolerably stiff paste2 spread it on a dish2 cut it in pieces1 which1 when you have fried in very fine oil1 cover with pepper and honey40,,xxiv-#bi 8,make a compact mixture of milk1 honey1 and eggs2 let it cook very slowly1 and serve1 after having sprinkled over it a little pepper40,,xxiv-#cj ,these details will1 we hope1 give a sufficient idea of ancient pastry4 ,we must remember that these recipes form1 as it were1 the starting point4 ,the oil fritter of the ,hebrews and the meringues of our period are wide apart3 more than thirty-three centuries separate the two2 two thousand years have elapsed since ,cato wrote the recipe for his somewhat heavy tart4 ,the author of the 8,culinary ,art10 ,apicius himself1 is very old4 ,the private life of the ancient people appears to be worthy of serious study2 but we too often only bestow on it our disdain4 ,the author of this work has observed their customs in the kitchen and in the dining-room--the only places to which he had access--and he has taken the liberty of writing the result of his investigations4 ,sometimes he admires1 but never does he despise1 a civilisation different to our own1 but which was not without its good side4 ,he conjures the reader to believe him when he says1 that whatever eccentricities the gastronomy of ancient nations may present to us1 those people 7he has1 perhaps1 acquired the right to venture such an assertion7 doubtless eat in a very different manner from ourselves2 but they certainly knew how to eat4 ,the pastry just mentioned is certainly not altogether irreproachable--that is clear2 but many kinds reveal that exquisite sentiment of the good which is nothing else than taste--whether it relate to art1 literature or cooking--and the entire development of which seems to have been the appurtenance of a small number of privileged centuries4 ,great epochs--such as those of ,pericles1 ,augustus1 ,leo ,,xii41 ,louis ,,xiv41 and ,queen ,anne--have seen roses and myrtles flourish by the side of the laurels with which the muses are crowned4 ,charles ,,xii4 was fond of tartlets2 ,frederic ,,ii4 gave himself fits of indigestion by eating ,savoy cakes2 and the ,marchal de ,saxe rested from the fatigues of glory before a plate of macaroons4 ,we have renounced the kind of pastry with which our ancestors used to regale themselves in the #adth century4 ,their stag pies,,xxiv-#ca are no longer in vogue2 neither have we any taste for their great pies which contained a lamb or a stuffed kid1 surrounded with goslings by dozens and scores4,,xxiv-#cb ,their tarts have fallen into the same oblivion4 ,who thinks now of their ,janus1 or double-faced1 tarts1 herb tarts1 rose-leaf tarts1 oat tarts1 or chesnut tarts8,,xxiv-#cc ,the first statutes given to the pastry cooks by ,st4 ,louis 7,may1 #abgj71 sanctioned their custom of working on all festival days without exception4 ,now1 the motive for such a toleration was probably this3 the pagans had their festivals1 which they passed in banqueting2 the ,romans called them dies epulat4,,xxiv-#cd ,the early ,christians1 although they gave up the worship of false gods1 preserved certain customs in which they had been brought up1 among which was that of public and private banquets on festival days4,,xxiv-#ce ,we still see some remains of these customs in the village rejoicings on the ,continent1 on the day of their patron saint4 ,the ,fathers of the ,church and the ,councils raised their voices against this abuse2,,xxiv-#cf but they were obliged to tolerate it1 and the pastry-cooks1 who were very busy on those occasions1 profited by the indulgence4 ,it is as well to remark that they were1 at one and the same time1 publicans1 roasters 7that is1 they would roast anything for anybody71 and cooks4 ,under the ministry of the ,chancelier de l',hpital1 little pies1 or patties1 were hawked through all the streets of ,paris1 and there was an enormous consumption of them4 ,the severe minister considered them a luxury1 which it was incumbent upon him to suppress2 so he prohibited1 not their sale1 but the crying of them1 as a temptation to gluttony4 ,there is a kind of cake much in vogue in ,england1 on ,good ,friday1 designated hot-cross-bun1 because it is always marked with a cross4 ,the reader will1 perhaps1 take some interest in the observations of ,bryant on the subject of this pastry3-- 8,the offerings10 says he1 8which people in ancient times used to present to the gods were generally purchased at the entrance of the temple2 especially every species of consecrated bread1 which was denominated accordingly4 ,one species of sacred bread which used to be offered to the gods was of great antiquity1 and called ,boun40 ,it was a kind of cake1 with a representation of two horns4 ,julius ,pollux mentions it after the same manner--a sort of cake with horns4 ,diogenes ,laertius1 speaking of the same offering being made by ,empedocles1 describes the chief ingredients of which it was composed3--8,he offered one of the sacred liba1 called a bonse 7bons71 which was made of fine flour and honey40,,xxiv-#cg ,england seems1 then1 to have retained the name and the form of the ancient bons1 though the people do not recognise in the bun anything sacred or holy4 ,titus ,livy said1 in speaking of ,rome1 8,the greatest things have small beginnings40 ,this applies equally to pastry1 which appears so unworthy of attention at the commencement of the middle ages that nothing seems to announce its high destiny4 ,at first1 in the southern provinces1 people simply mixed flour1 oil1 and honey4 ,the ,roman school was still in force4 ,the inhabitants of the north had a mind to innovate2 they employed eggs1 butter1 and salt4 ,then came the idea of inclosing within this paste cooked meat1 seasoned with bacon and spices2 and1 from progress to progress1 they at last inclosed cream1 fruit1 and marmalades4,,xxiv-#ch ,we find pastry mentioned for the first time in a charter of ,louis-le-,dbonnaire 7#hjb74 ,it is there said that a certain farm of the ,abbey of ,st4 ,denis is to furnish1 at certain festivals1 sixteen measures of honey1 eleven hundred oxen1 and five hogsheads of flour to make pastry4,,xxiv-#ci ,a charter of the church of ,paris1 #abjb1 mentions simnels or wigs1 under the name of 8panes leves qui dicuntur echaudati40 ,joinville speaks1 in 8,the life of ,st4 ,louis10 of cheese fritters cooked in the sun1 which the ,saracens presented to that king and his knights when they restored them to liberty4 ,and1 finally1 so early as the #acth century1 the flans of ,chartres1 the patties of ,paris1 and the tarts of ,dourlans1 were in great renown2 and a charter of #acja informs us that1 at that epoch1 several lords imposed on their vassals a tribute of fugus1 or puff-pastry4,,xxiv-#dj ,the cook of ,charles ,v4 says1 that the word tourte signified a household loaf of a round form2 that this name was afterwards given to delicate pastry2 and that1 by corruption1 it was called tart in certain provinces4,,xxiv-#da ,taillevant speaks of cream1 almonds1 and rose-water1 as the accompaniments of ,darioles1 a kind of custard2 and of ,talmouses1 a sort of cheese-cake1 made of cheese1 eggs1 and butter1 coloured with the yolks of eggs4,,xxiv-#db ,platina cites tarts made with radishes1 quinces1 gourds1 elder-berry flowers1 rice1 oatmeal1 millet1 chesnuts1 cherries1 dates1 ,may-herbs1 roses1 and1 lastly1 the white1 or cream tart4,,xxiv-#dc ,,xxv4 ,,water4 ,thales1 who borrowed from ,egypt the elements of philosophy1 which he afterwards spread in ,greece1 taught that water is the vivifying principle of all things2 that nature is thereby made fruitful2 that without it the earth1 arid and laid waste1 would be a frightful desert1 where every effort of man to support his existence must fail4,,xxv-#a ,these ideas1 for a long time adopted by ,pagan theology1 peopled fountains1 rivers1 and seas1 with divinities1 and often confounded in the same worship those gods1 sons of gratitude1 with the limpid waters consecrated to them4 ,the ,persians carried their veneration for this element so far1 that they dared not wash their hands1 and would have preferred being consumed to the very bone rather than dip themselves in a river4,,xxv-#b ,the ,cappadocians were proud of treading in the same path4,,xxv-#c ,the ,egyptians offered prayers and homage to water4,,xxv-#d ,the ,nile1 in particular1 received their adorations under the name of ,ypeus1 or ,siris1 and they offered to it--as a sacrifice--barley1 wheat1 sugar1 and fruit4,,xxv-#e ,the ,scythians honoured the ,danube on account of its vast extent2 the ,thessalians prostrated themselves before the majestic shores of the ,peneus2 the ancient combat of ,achelous with ,hercules made it sacred to the tolians2 by a special law1 the ,lacedmonians were compelled to implore the ,eurotas2 and a religious precept forced the ,athenians to incense in honour of the ,ilissus4,,xxv-#f ,the ,greeks and ,romans did not fail to follow such good examples4 ,the fountains and rivers had their altars4 ,the ,rhine was called a god2 and when neas arrived in ,italy1 he prayed it might be favourable to him4,,xxv-#g ,however strange such superstition may appear1 it is1 nevertheless1 conceivable that ,paganism1 struck with wonder at the flux and reflux of the sea1 and at the phenomena presented by several celebrated springs1 and seduced by the charming fictions of doubtful poesy1 should have deified an element both beneficial and terrible1 since it could not cry out with the prophet king3 8,the ,lord on high is mightier than the noise of many waters1 yea than the mighty waves of the sea40,,xxv-#h ,thence came the innumerable number of tutelary gods to which the ,ocean alone gave an asylum4 ,by ,thetis it became the father of the seventy-two ,oceanides1 and the fifty ,nereides called it their grandfather4 ,hesiod numbered three thousand nymphs1 and he probably forgot a few of them4 ,we say nothing of the ,naiades1 the ,nap1 the ,limnades1 and so many others whom fable was pleased to recognise1 and whom it described as joyfully disporting in the water4 ,greece exhausted the treasures of its poetical imagination to embellish her fountains1 beloved retreats of the timid ,naiades4 ,several were remarkable for the beauty of their architecture and the extreme delicacy of their execution4 ,megara1 in ,achaia1 possessed one celebrated for its magnificence4 ,that of ,pirene1 at ,corinth1 was surrounded with white marble1 in which were placed grottoes which unceasingly supplied a vast and superb basin4 ,another fountain of ,corinth1 named ,lerna1 offered to loungers an elegant portico1 under which some very commodious seats allowed them to enjoy1 during summer1 the freshness which the water communicated to the atmosphere4 ,in the sacred wood of sculapius1 at ,epidaurus1 a splendid fountain was seen whose marvellous beauty attracted all eyes4,,xxv-#i ,lastly1 those of ,messina1 known under the names of ,arsinoe and of ,clepsydra1 yielded nothing in richness of material and finish of details to the most renowned monuments of ,greece4 ,the ,athenians named four officers to keep watch and ward over the water4,,xxv-#aj ,the other ,greek towns followed the example4 ,these officers had to keep the fountains in order and clean the reservoirs1,,xxv-#aa so that the water might be preserved pure and limpid4 ,the ,romans at first contented themselves with water from the ,tiber4 ,king ,ancus ,martius,,xxv-#ab was the first,,xxv-#ac to build aqueducts1 destined to convey the water of the fountain of ,piconia from ,tibur to ,rome1 a distance of about thirty-three thousand paces4 ,some have honoured the censor1 ,appius ,claudius1 for this magnificent undertaking1,,xxv-#ad to whom is certainly due the celebrated ,appian ,way4,,xxv-#ae ,these gigantic works greatly multiplied in time4 ,under the reign of ,nero1 ,rome had nine principal aqueducts,,xxv-#af constructed1 the pipes of which were of bricks1 baked tiles1 stone1 lead1 or wood4,,xxv-#ag ,according to the calculation of ,vigenerus1,,xxv-#ah #ejj1jjj hogsheads of water were conveyed into ,rome every twenty-four hours1 by #aj1hej small channels1 the internal circumference of which was one inch4 ,the water was received in large closed basins1 above which were raised splendid monuments4 ,these basins--or chteaux d'eau--castella ,aquarum--supplied other subterraneous conduits connected with the various quarters of the town1,,xxv-#ai which conveyed water to small reservoirs--fontes--furnished with taps1 for the exclusive use of certain streets4,,xxv-#bj ,the water which was not drinkable ran out by means of large pipes into extensive inclosures1 where it served to water cattle4 ,at these places the people washed their linen1 and here1 too1 they had a ready resource in case of fire4,,xxv-#ba ,augustus created water commissaries1 who took care that all water coming into ,rome by the aqueducts was fairly distributed in every public place1 and to those of the inhabitants who had obtained the privilege of having it enter their houses4,,xxv-#bb ,but the 8ingenious thirst0,,xxv-#bc of the conquerors of the world could not content itself with a delicious water which nature furnished free of expense4 ,was it not too much for human endurance1 that not only the air and the sun could not be offered to the highest bidder1,,xxv-#bd but that the same spring was to quench the thirst of obscure plebeians on equal terms with the rich patrician8 ,intemperance and luxury very soon contrived to find excellent means of remedying a state of things so intolerable4 ,the custom of preserving snow in cellars1 to obtain cool beverages1 is very old4 ,aristotle pointed out the method of boiling water1 and putting the vessel afterwards in snow1 in order to obtain ice4 ,rome had recourse to this expedient1 which was afterwards replaced with advantage1 under ,nero1 by constructing ice houses for the use of opulent epicureans4,,xxv-#be ,this even was not enough for voluptuous ,romans1 slaves to their strange caprices2 their beverages did not appear to them as yet sufficiently cool1,,xxv-#bf and the summit of the ,alps was put under contribution to furnish ice for the fashionable tables of the imperial city4,,xxv-#bg ,the ,romans were also frequently supplied with snow water1,,xxv-#bh clarified by being passed through the colum nivarium1 or snow cullender1,,xxv-#bi a charming little utensil of silver1 pierced with a great number of holes1 through which the iced beverage passed into a recipient beneath4 ,this drink was sometimes mortal1 but always exquisite4,,xxv-#cj ,from this vessel1 it was poured into an ampula1 or a sort of crystal bottle of rotund form1 which was often enormously dear on account of the elaborate chasing with which it was embellished4,,xxv-#ca ,this water bottle1 with its long and narrow neck1 was the principal ornament of the sideboards and tables1 when it bore the name of some skilful artist from ,campania or the ,island of ,samos4,,xxv-#cb,o ,iced beverage lost all its charm at the end of the fine season1 and hot water took its place during winter4,,xxv-#cc ,the same custom existed in ,greece in the best classes of society4,,xxv-#cd ,at ,rome1 it was much more general1 for there were a great number of taverns1 where the middle classes and citizens of the lowest order gorged themselves copiously with pork and warm water4 ,the ,emperor ,claudius caused them to be closed1 and severely punished the proprietors of those houses who opposed his ordinance4,,xxv-#ce ,at the commencement of the repast1 a copper vessel was placed on the table purposely to boil water4 ,it was much like a ,french bouilloire 7which nearly resembles a tankard71 and contained a cylinder of about four inches in diameter1 covered with a moving lid1 and pierced with holes for the ashes to pass through4 ,they fell into the lower part of the cylinder4 ,the space around was filled with water by means of a small funnel soldered to the boiler4 ,the taps of these vases were always slightly above the bottom1 so that the sediment of the water should not pass into the cups4,,xxv-#cf ,ancient medicine attributed to water a singular curative virtue1 which it has also been supposed to possess in our days4 ,this system1 so much talked about now by some persons1 is1 therefore1 not new4 ,hippocrates carefully distinguished the difference between good and bad water4,,xxv-#cg ,the best1 according to him1 ought to be clear1 light1 inodorous1 without any flavour1 and drawn from springs exposed to the east4,,xxv-#ch ,he interdicts all those which proceed from melted snow4,,xxv-#ci ,asclepiades made his patients drink plentifully of water1 and frequently ordered them cold baths4,,xxv-#dj ,illustration3 ,pl4 #ag4 ,the physician1 ,musa1 prescribed to ,augustus the same regimen1 and the ,emperor found himself much benefited by it4,,xxv-#da ,under the reign of ,nero1 ,charmis acquired a great vogue by extolling cold baths1,,xxv-#db even in the depth of winter4 ,this dexterous native of ,marseilles knew so well how to persuade people1 that he could hardly attend to his immense connection2 and as he sometimes required as much as #hjj from his patients1,,xxv-#dc he soon became as celebrated for his riches as for his pretended medical genius4 ,who will say1 after this1 that the water-cure system is good for nothing8 8,in ,egypt1 rich people have the water brought to them from the ,nile in leather pouches4 ,large and porous earthen pots of an oval shape1 kept up by supporters1 are filled with it4 ,the water at the end of a few hours has deposited the slime it contained4 ,it is afterwards distributed in small vases of terra cotta1 called bardaks1 of the size of our water-jugs4 ,these vases are taken in the most showy part of the habitation4 ,in a short time the clay of the bardaks is impregnated2 their surface is covered with water1 which1 after borrowing from the liquid within the caloric it requires for evaporation1 reduces this to a temperature of six or seven degrees under that which it had before40--,,parmentier4 ,more than five centuries ago the ,sieur de ,joinville described the same process4 8,the water of the ,nile10 he said1 8is of such a nature1 that when we hung it in white earthen pots1 made in the country1 to the rigging of our ships1 the water became in the heat of the day as cold as spring-water40,,xxv-#dd ,sea-water is not potable1 but it has long since been remarked that the vapours which rise from the sea are soft1 and it was thence concluded that1 by collecting and condensing them1 it would be possible to obtain a potable liquid fit for domestic purposes4 ,this phenomenon was known in the time of ,pliny1 who informs us that1 8fleece spread about the ship1 after having received the exhalations from the sea1 becomes damp1 and that fresh water may be extracted from it40,,xxv-#de ,about the middle of the last century means were found to remove ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xvii4 ,no4 #a4 ,pail1 of bronze1 with movable handle1 covered with hieroglyphics1 to carry water from the ,nile for the ,feast of ,isis4 ,no4 #b4 ,pail1 with two handles1 same metal1 placed on a small tripod to stand upon1 owing to the convexity of the bottom4--,,st4 ,,non1 8,herculaneum40 the saline substances from sea-water4 ,boyle1 ,leibnitz1 the ,count of ,marsigli--all had made a great number of fruitless experiments4 ,mr4 ,poissonnier invented a very simple distillating machine1 with which1 and an absorbing powder1 he succeeded in depriving sea-water of its insufferable bitterness1 and rendering it perfectly salubrious4 ,about #aghd1 a successful experiment was made at ,york with a machine which produced the same result4 ,some travellers have related1 that1 at the ,iron ,island1 the only soft water was that which was collected from a large tree1 in the centre of the island1 and which was incessantly covered with clouds4 ,the water ran continually from the leaves1 and fell into two large cisterns1 constructed at the foot of the tree1 which1 according to ,jackson1 furnished enough for #h1jjj souls1 and #ajj1jjj cattle4 8,let us see10 says ,bory de ,saint-,vincent1 8what amount of credit is due to the marvellous tree of the ,iron ,island40 ,abreu ,galindo1 in his manuscript treatise on the ,canary ,islands1 preserved in the archives of the country1 says that he wished to see with his own eyes what the tree was4 ,he embarked1 arrived1 took a guide to conduct him to a place called ,tigulahe1 which is separated from the sea by a valley1 and there1 at the extreme boundary1 under a large cliff1 was the holy tree1 which in the country is called ,garo4 ,its trunk is twelve spans in circumference1 four feet in diameter1 and nearly forty feet in height4 ,the branches are wide apart and tufted2 its fruit resembles an acorn1 and the kernel is1 in colour and taste1 like the little aromatic almonds which pine nuts contain4 ,it never loses its leaves1 that is to say1 the old ones do not fall until the young ones are formed4 ,on the north side1 are two large stone pillars1 of twenty square feet1 hollowed out to a depth of twenty spans4 ,these pillars are so placed that the water falls into one1 and is preserved in the other4 ,vapours and mists rise almost every day from the sea1 particularly in the morning1 and at no great distance in the offing2 these vapours are carried by the east wind against the cliffs1 which block their passage1 so that they cover the tree1 become condensed on its smooth leaves1 and run off drop by drop4 ,the more the east wind reigns1 the more abundant is the supply of water4 ,it is distributed by a man who guards the tree4 ,a whirlwind tore up the ,garo in #afbe4,,xxv-#df ,,xxvi4 ,,beverages1 ,,of ,,which ,,water ,,is ,,the ,,foundation4 ,water is certainly the most ancient beverage1 the most simple1 natural1 and the most common1 which nature has given to mankind4 ,but it is necessary to be really thirsty in order to drink water1 and as soon as this craving is satisfied it becomes insipid and nauseous4 ,what is then to be done8 ,cyrus would have said3 8,drink no more20 so would a teetotaler of the present day4 ,in the first ages of the world1 the human race1 bound by no oath of temperance1 succeeded1 by sheer application of their ingenuity1 in finding something better1 or perhaps worse1 according to the ideas of certain moralists1 whose wise teaching1 however1 commands respect4 ,certain it is that water1 continuing to be regarded with peculiar favour1 was called to play a principal part in various combinations by which it lost its insipidity and inoffensive properties1 and acquired the wonderful power of provoking a sort of madness1 known by the name of drunkenness4 ,those beverages which man imbibes when he is no longer thirsty1 which cloud his weak mind1 and render him ill when in good health1 are called fermented liquors4 ,beer is one of the most ancient4 ,if we are to believe ,diodorus of ,sicily1 ,bacchus himself invented it4,,xxvi-#a ,however1 it is certain that the absolute injunction not to drink wine1 caused the inhabitants of ,egypt to have recourse to a factitious beverage obtained from barley1,,xxvi-#b often mentioned in history under the name of zythum and curmi1,,xxvi-#c and whose invention has been often attributed to ,osiris--which means1 that its precise origin is entirely unknown4 ,it was a kind of beer composed of barley1 and capable of being preserved for a long time without decomposing2,,xxvi-#d for instead of hops1 utterly unknown in that country1 a bitter infusion of lupins was added4,,xxvi-#e ,the ,egyptians also used ,assyrian corn in its composition1 and probably other aromatic plants1 in which each one followed his peculiar taste4 ,the method of brewing varied much among them2,,xxvi-#f but the one here mentioned was that most generally in use to procure zythum in ,lower ,egypt1 where it was converted1 like our beer1 into vinegar1 which the ,greek merchants of ,alexandria exported to the ,european ports4,,xxvi-#g ,the ,egyptians long drank nothing but this fermented liquor1 because the followers of ,osiris believed that when ,jupiter crushed the ,titans with thunderbolts1 their blood1 mixing with the earth1 produced the vine4 ,they invented the zythum as a substitute for wine4,,xxvi-#h ,it is not probable that the ,greeks1 whose wines were so renowned in antiquity1 thought much of beer4 ,nevertheless1 ,aristotle,,xxvi-#i mentions drunkenness being caused by drinking a beverage drawn from barley4 schylus,,xxvi-#aj and ,sophocles,,xxvi-#aa mention a liquor procured from the same cereal4 ,the use of beer spread rapidly in ,gaul1 where wine was but little known before the time of ,probus4 ,the ,emperor ,julian1 governor of this country1 acquaints us of this fact in an epigram4,,xxvi-#ab ,the ,spaniards1 and the aborigines of ,britany and ,germany1 also delightfully intoxicated themselves with an 8infusion of barley10 called by the first of these nations1 clia1 ceria1 cerevisia1,,xxvi-#ac and curmi by the two latter4 ,these various denominations signify literally1 strong water1,,xxvi-#ad and this fermented drink was common to the nations just indicated4,,xxvi-#ae ,all the people of ,western ,europe drank a strong liquor made with grain and water4 ,the manner of preparing it was not the same in ,spain1 in ,gaul1 and elsewhere2 but everywhere it possessed the same dangerous properties4 8,man10 says ,pliny1 8is so skilful in flattering his vices1 that he has even found means to render water poisonous and intoxicating40,,xxvi-#af ,the ,danes and ,saxons gave themselves up to an enormous consumption of zythum and curmi1 kinds of ale and beer1 varying in no other respect than in the manner of preparing them4,,xxvi-#ag ,the warlike piety of their ingenuous and coarse-minded heroes1 desired no greater recompense1 after a life of fatigue and rough combats1 than to sing the praises of ,odin amidst eternal banquets1 where these exhilarating beverages might unceasingly maintain the joy and bravery of the warriors4,,xxvi-#ah ,the ancient ,britons had many vines1 but they esteemed them only as ornaments to their gardens2 and they preferred1 says ,csar1 the wine of grain to that of grapes4,,xxvi-#ai ,it is historically demonstrated that the ,english1 at a very early epoch1 applied themselves to the making of beer4 ,it is mentioned in the laws of ,ina1 ,chief1 or ,king1 of ,wessex2 and this liquor held a distinguished rank among those that appeared at a royal feast in the reign of ,edward the ,confessor4,,xxvi-#bj ,under the ,normans1 ale acquired a reputation it has ever since maintained4 ,two gallons cost only one penny in the cities2 in the country1 four gallons might be obtained at the same price4 ,happy age6 happy ale drinkers6 ,at that period--the golden age for the apostles of the ,britannic ,bacchus--the brewers rendered no account of the preparation of this beloved beverage4 ,the ,english nation did not yet purchase the right of intoxicating themselves3 it was not till the year #afdc that this authorization was to be bought4,,xxvi-#ba ,the use of hops would appear to be of ,german invention4 ,they were employed in the ,low ,countries at the beginning of the #adth century2 but it was not till the #afth that they were appreciated in ,england4,,xxvi-#bb ,can it be true that beer or ale possessed1 in certain cases1 strange curative properties8 ,we find the following fact in a statistical account of ,scotland4,,xxvi-#bc ,a poor coal miner of the county of ,clackmannan1 named ,william ,hunter1 had been long suffering with acute rheumatism1 or obstinate gout1 which deprived him of the use of his limbs4 ,the eve of the first ,monday of the year #ageh1 some of his neighbours came to pass the evening with him4 ,ale was drunk1 and they got merry4 ,the jolly fellow never failed to empty his glass at each round4 ,scotch ale is a seductive drink1 and as perfidious as pleasure3 it bewilders the senses1 and finally masters the reason4 ,william ,hunter lost his1 completely2 but his legs were restored1 and he was able to make marvellous use of them for more than twenty years4 ,after that happy evening1 never did his old enemy1 the gout1 dare approach him2 and the worthy coal miner took care to keep it at a distance1 by reiterating the remedy which had proved so beneficial4 ,nobody could blame him4 ,ale had become so dear to him6 ,gratitude and prudence combined to make it a duty to remain unalterably attached1 and he was faithful to it till he breathed his last4 ,antecedent to the use of hops beer was made in ,england as follows3 8,to make a ,hogshead of ,strong ,ale4--,it was necessary1 first of all1 to make the grout1 which was thus done3--,nine gallons of water was to be well boiled1 and put into a brewing-vessel2 when it was a little cool there was put therein three pecks of malt1 which was left standing for an hour and a-half1 and then it ought to be drawn off into a cooler4 ,when it was near cold1 it was put into a vessel provided for that purpose1 perfectly clean1 and having a cover to stop it down close4 ,being therein1 it was closely covered down1 that it might there stand to sharpen2 if the weather should be cold it might require about eighteen hours1 but if it was hot not quite so long4 ,when it was ripe enough1 upon the sudden opening of the vessel1 the strength of the fume arising from the liquour would near1 if not entirely1 extinguish a lighted candle1 which ought to be provided short on purpose1 and holden over for the proof thereof4 ,when the brewer was satisfied that the grout was properly ripened1 he poured it forth into the copper1 and boiled it moderately upon a slow fire for about an hour1 constantly stirring it all the while1 and to know when it was boiled enough he provided a small ashen stick1 which1 being alighted at the fire1 he thrust suddenly into the boiling liquor1 drawing it forth as quick as possible1 when1 if the fire on the stick remained still unextinguished1 it was well boiled1 but not if it were otherwise4 ,this being done1 the liquor was put into a vessel of twenty gallons1 or thereabouts1 and yeast put to it1 that it might work1 which when it had sufficiently done1 it was ready for the wort to be put to it4 ,the wort might be brewed of what strength the brewer should please1 so that it did not exceed sixty gallons to the above proportion of grout4 ,the grout being now properly ripe1 and having worked enough1 a quantity of the wort1 sufficient to fill up the twenty-gallon vessel into which the grout is put1 must be poured upon it1 and then the whole drawn off into the yeeling fatt1 and there1 being mixed with the remainder of the wort1 is left to work together1 which when it hath sufficiently done1 it must be strained off into the hogshead1 through a hair sieve made for that purpose1 where it must also work like other beer or ale40,,xxvi-#bd ,in the ninth year of ,edward ,,ii41 things being very scarce1 a gallon of ale was sold for twopence1 of the better sort for threepence1 and of the best for fourpence2 but the ,londoners ordained that1 in the ,city1 a gallon of the bettermost sort of ale should be sold for three-halfpence1 and of the small ale for one penny only4,,xxvi-#be ,holinshed says,,xxvi-#bf that every kind of wine could be procured in ,england4 8,nevertheless10 he adds1 8ale and beere beare the greatest brunt in drincking1 which are of so many sortes and ages as it pleaseth the brewer to make them4 ,the beere that is used at noblemen's tables is commonly of a yeare olde 7or1 peradventure1 of twoo yeares' tunning1 or more1 but this is not general72 it is also brued in ,marche1 and is therefore called ,marche beere2 but for the household it is usually not under a monthe's age1 eache one coveting to have the same stale as he might1 so that was not soure1 and the breade new as possible1 so that be not hote40 ,formerly1 they drank beer in some parts of ,france--in others1 wine4 ,perhaps it is the same now4 ,this difference of taste gave rise to a rather jocose dispute between a grey friar and a white friar4 ,one1 who was a ,fleming1 was for beer2 the other1 who was from ,bordeaux1 was for wine4 ,the ,fleming cited passages without number from antiquity in proof of the excellence of beer1 known by the ancients under the name of zithum1 or curmi4 ,the one from ,bordeaux was not so learned1 but he was a native of ,bordeaux1 and with one word he terminated the dispute4 8,brother10 said he to his adversary1 8,i maintain that there is as much difference between wine and beer as there is between ,st4 ,francis and ,st4 ,dominick40 ,the whole community were for the ,bordeaux monk1 and the ,fleming was reduced to silence4,,xxvi-#bg ,braket was formerly the cherished drink of the lower classes in ,england4 ,arnold describes the preparation of it1 in his 8,chronicles of ,london30 8,take a pot of good ale and put thereto a porcyon of honey and pepper1 in this manner3--,when thou hast good ale1 lete it stonde 7stand7 in a pott two dayes1 and then drawe out a quart1 or a pottell1 of that ale1 and putt to the honey1 and set it over the fyre and let it sethe well1 and take it of the fyre and scume it clene2 and then sat it over the fyre and scume it agayne1 and then let it keele a whyle1 and put thereto the pepper1 and then set hym on the fyre and let him boyle well togyder1 with esy fyre1 but clere4 ,take four gallons of good ale1 a pynte of fyn tryed hony1 and about a saucerful of powder of peper40 ,beer was hot unknown in ,italy1 but the ,romans never granted it their serious attention4,,xxvi-#bh ,we will give a brief sketch of those beverages which1 among them and the ,greeks1 replaced wine with greater or less advantage4 ,convalescents1 sober persons who resisted the sweet seductions of ,falernian and ,chios wines1 drank a kind of barley-water ptisana1 a sorry liquid1 of which the following is the recipe for the use of the abstemious of the present day4 ,they placed barley in water1 and left it there until it swelled2 it was then dried in the sun1 then beaten to deprive it of its husk1 and ground4 ,then1 when it had been boiled in water for a long time1 it was again exposed to the sun4 ,when they wished to drink barley-water1 a small quantity of this flour was boiled1 the water was strained off1 and a few drops of vinegar were added4,,xxvi-#bi ,the disciples of ,comus have always shuddered at this beverage1 when only mentioned4 ,the oxycratus was not much better4 ,it was a mixture of water and vinegar1 with which the lower orders contented themselves when they could obtain nothing more exhilarating to drink2,,xxvi-#cj and with which the soldiers1 especially in the camp1 were compelled to quench their thirst4,,xxvi-#ca ,some passages from ,pliny1 and also from other authors1 prove that the ancients were acquainted with cider4,,xxvi-#cb ,it is1 however1 asserted that the use of this beverage goes no farther back than three or four centuries1 either in ,england or ,france2,,xxvi-#cc but this cannot be a fact with regard to the last-named country1 since the capitulars of ,charlemagne place among the number of ordinary trades that of sicerator1 or 8cider maker40 ,this 8wine of apples10,,xxvi-#cd it is said1 was very common among the ,hebrews4 ,that is possible1 but it would1 nevertheless1 be difficult to prove it from the holy writings1 since the word schecar1 which has been translated by sicera1 and which1 again1 has been rendered into cider1 signifies all kinds of intoxicating beverage1 whether made from grain1 honey1 or fruit4,,xxvi-#ce ,gaul1 covered with forests1 and swarming with bees1 possessed an immense quantity of wild honey1 of which1 by the aid of fermentation in water1 the inhabitants composed a strong and intoxicating drink1 called hydromel4 ,this beverage1 highly esteemed both in ,rome and ,greece1 was prepared in the following manner3 rain water was kept some time1 and then boiled until reduced to one-third1 to which honey was added4,p ,this mixture was exposed to the sun for the space of forty days2 it was then placed in a vessel1 and by these means they obtained1 in time1 a vinous hydromel very similar to our ,madeira wine4,,xxvi-#cf ,to make oxymel1 still more heady1 ten pounds of honey were mixed with two pints and a half of old vinegar1 and one pound of sea-salt2 the whole boiled only an instant in five pints of water4 ,this liquor was left to get very old4,,xxvi-#cg ,juice of quinces and honey1 boiled in water1 produced hydromelon1 a delicious drink1 which our century might envy the delicate drinkers of ,athens and ,rome1,,xxvi-#ch especially when roses had been added to this nectar1 which changed it into hydrorosatum4,,xxvi-#ci ,the apomeli was nothing more than water in which honeycomb had been boiled4,,xxvi-#dj ,omphacomeli1 an ingenious mixture of honey and verjuice1 quenched thirst during the summer1 and produced that agreeable gaiety which is to drunkenness what doziness is to sleep4,,xxvi-#da ,a mixture of honey and juice of myrtle seed1 of course diluted with water1 composed myrtites1 the aromatic flavour of which flattered the palate1 and rendered the breath more sweet4,,xxvi-#db ,sometimes pomegranates were substituted for the myrtle1 and it was then called rhoites1 and possessed an agreeable and pungent flavour4,,xxvi-#dc ,wine made of dates enjoyed a general esteem in the east4 ,the ,romans1 who knew also how to appreciate it1 prepared it by throwing into water some common1 though very ripe1 dates2 and when they had well soaked1 they were put under a press4,,xxvi-#dd ,the same means were employed to procure fig wine2 but often the sediment of grapes was used instead of water1 to prevent its being too sweet4,,xxvi-#de 8,artificial wines0 were also procured by the aid of several other kinds of fruits1 such as sorbs1 medlars1 and mulberries4,,xxvi-#df ,fermentation dispelled the sweet and insipid flavour which generally distinguishes these fruits2 and1 at the commencement of a repast1 the guests swallowed with delight large cups of these beverages4,,xxvi-#dg ,it was also the custom to serve very cold water1 in which certain plants had been infused1 and which was freshened by being surrounded with snow after it had been boiled for some time4 ,the invention of this iced water is attributed to the ,emperor ,nero1 who made great use of it2 and who appears to have bitterly regretted it when1 dethroned and flying from his assassins1 he was constrained through excessive thirst to drink muddy water from a ditch4 ,the unfortunate ,csar then1 for the first time1 thought of the strange vicissitudes of fortune1 and casting a sorrowful glance at the disgusting fluid he held in his hand1 8,alas60 he exclaimed1 with a sigh1 8is this the iced water that ,nero drank80,,xxvi-#dh ,,tea4 ,this plant is a native of ,china1 and it is only in the ,celestial ,empire that tea is cultivated to any great extent4 ,why1 then1 is it neglected on all other points of the globe situated in the same latitude8 ,doubtless1 because the soil of ,china is superior for its culture to that of any other country4 ,the shrub that produces tea is cultivated between the twenty-third and thirty-third degrees of latitude2 it thrives on the mountainous parts1 on the slope of the hills1 and that which grows on high ground is far superior to that gathered in the valleys4 ,it is the same with this plant as with the vine in ,france and in ,europe2 it grows on flat land1 and succeeds wonderfully on plains exposed to the sun's rays4 ,the ,chinese export teas of the first quality in much greater proportion than those of an inferior kind4 ,in ,england there is a larger consumption than in any other country in the world4 ,in ,china1 the tea that forms the habitual beverage of the people is a very inferior species of the ,boo tea4 ,the provinces of ,kiang-,nang1 ,kiang-,si1 and ,che-,kiang1 furnish green tea to ,russia1 the ,united ,states1 ,calcutta1 and various ,european countries2 the province of ,fo-,kien furnishes black tea to ,england1 with the exception of a third of the boo tea1 or bohee1 which is exported from a district called ,wo-,ping1 lying to the north-west of the province of ,canton4 ,it is in ,fo-,kien that the cultivation of this precious shrub is held in the highest estimation4 ,in this province it is deprived of a large number of its buds at the beginning of the spring4 ,of these are made the tea ,p-ko1 the most renowned of all kinds4 ,congo tea serves to perfume part of these buds1 and to impart to them a more agreeable flavour4 ,a first gathering of full-grown leaves takes place at the commencement of ,may1 a second towards the middle of ,june1 and a third and last at the end of the summer4 ,this produces a tea inferior to the preceding kinds in point of quality and perfume4 ,the inhabitants of ,fo-,kien cultivate tea in inclosures2 and at the time of harvest sell the leaves to a class of persons who undertake their preparation1 which consists in drying the leaves in houses1 first by the simple contact with the air1 afterwards in heated warehouses4 ,when the preparation is terminated1 the merchants come and make choice of the best qualities2 then the desiccation of the tea is finished1 and it is forwarded in packets1 each bearing its proper designation4 ,as soon as the leaves have been gathered and selected1 they are plunged in boiling water1 where they remain about thirty seconds2 they are then quickly withdrawn1 strained1 and thrown on iron plates1 large and flat1 placed above a furnace3 the workmen's hands can hardly endure the heat of these plates4 ,they continually stir the leaves till they are sufficiently heated1 after which they take them off1 and spread them on large tables covered with mats4 ,other workmen then busy themselves with rolling them with the palm of the hand1 while others cool them as quickly as possible by agitating the air with large fans4 ,this operation must be continued until the leaves have completely cooled under the hand of the person who rolls them1 for it is by being quickly cooled that the leaves remain longer curled4 ,thanks to the operation of rolling them1 which is repeated two or three times1 the leaves are deprived of their humidity1 and the unwholesome bitter juice they contain4 ,for teas of the first quality1 each leaf must be rolled separately2 but for more common kinds1 several may be rolled at once4 ,tea1 thus prepared1 is dried1 and put into boxes or cases free from moisture4 ,the ,chinese then aromatise it with various odoriferous plants1 such as the flowers of the olea fragrans1 and those of the camellia sesangua1 shrubs of the same family as tea2 or those of the scented tea-roses and orange-flowers4 ,this tea is destined for mandarins of the higher class1 for the ,calaos or ministers1 and even for the celestial sovereign of the ,centre of the ,earth--or1 in more simple words1 the ,emperor4 ,there are1 in reality1 but two kinds of tea1 black tea and green tea2 each kind is again subdivided into many varieties4 ,the best black tea is the scented ,liang-sing1 worth in ,china about #ajs4 the pound4 ,the first of all green teas1 destined for the great1 and bearing an exquisite perfume1 is that called ,koo-lang-fyn-i4 ,m4 de ,rienzi assures us that he has seen it sold in ,canton for #cbs4 a pound4 ,new tea is considered by the ,chinese as a powerful narcotic1 therefore it is never sold until a year after the gathering4 ,the ,europeans and ,americans1 who trade with tea in ,canton1 have recourse for their transactions with the ,chinese to native tasters1 or others1 who know how to distinguish the different qualities at the sight of the colour produced by the infusion4 ,it is generally believed in ,europe that tea exported thence has already served as a beverage to the ,chinese4 ,it is a mistake1 propagated by persons who1 having seen the tea put in water1 have doubtless not well understood the reason of this operation4 ,we must1 however1 admit that the merchants sometimes mix tea already used with tea of good quality2 a fraud only to be discovered by the weakness of the infusion4 ,tea seems likely to spread over the world4 ,our books1 wines1 brandy1 cutlery1 and jewellery1 go round the globe1 and are sought after by the civilized nations as well as the wild tribes4 ,on the other hand1 we receive our food1 together with spices1 from ,malaisia2 we sweeten them with sugar from the ,antilles or ,siam2 we enjoy the flavour and perfume of coffee from ,arabia and the ,island of ,bourbon2 we intoxicate ourselves with tobacco from ,manilla1 ,virginia1 of ,havannah1 and ,latakia2 and we imbibe with luxurious pleasure the tea of those ,chinese we are continually laughing at1 but of whom we have borrowed so many useful things4 ,we must1 however1 acknowledge that ,france is the country the least advanced in this respect1 and the use of this beneficent drink is far from being as common as it ought to be4 ,we do not fear to say that when once acquainted with the method of preparing it better than is generally done1 this inferiority in the consumption will disappear4 ,some witty delineator of manners and customs has pourtrayed upon the joyous scene of a comic theatre of ,paris1 that famous tea party of ,mother ,gibou and ,madame ,pochet1 one of those ridiculous ,parisian and really home-scenes1 much more common than is generally supposed1 and although the picture is over-charged1 it is nevertheless true4 ,it is not necessary here to give our private recipe to prepare an infusion in which that excellent lady1 ,madame ,pochet1 thought herself so perfect2 suffice to say1 that to make it agreeable to her guests she added salt1 pepper1 some cinnamon1 the yolk of an egg1 and a tiny drop of vinegar4 ,we would beg the reader not to fail in attending these charming and daily meetings1 at which each housewife presides1 and we would say to strangers1 let us seriously study an ,english tea4 8,the use of tea in ,china dates from the greatest antiquity4 ,the ,japanese attribute to it a miraculous origin4 ,they say that ,darma1 a very pious prince1 and son of an ,indian king1 landed in ,china in the year #eaj of the ,christian era1 and wishing to edify mankind by his example1 imposed upon himself privations of all kinds4 ,it happened1 however1 that after several years of great fatigue1 in spite of his care he fell asleep2 and believing he had violated his oath1 and in order to fulfil it faithfully for the future1 he cut off his eyelids and threw them on the ground4 ,the next day1 returning towards the same spot1 he found them changed into a little shrub1 hitherto unknown to the earth4 ,he eat some of the leaves1 which made him merry and restored his former strength4 ,having recommended the same food to his disciples1 the reputation of tea soon spread1 and has continued in use since that time40--,,desfontaines4 ,see1 also1 ,k,,mpfer1 in his 8,amnits ,exotiques40 ,we are ignorant of the period and motives which persuaded the ,chinese to use tea in infusion4 ,perhaps it was to render water more agreeable1 which is said to be brackish and of a bad taste in many parts of ,china4 ,in #afda1 ,tulpius1 a ,dutch physician1 was the first to mention this plant1 in a dissertation he published4 ,in #afeg1 ,joncquet1 a ,french physician1 called it the divine plant1 and compared it to ambrosia4 ,in #afgi1 ,cornelius ,bentekoe1 a ,dutch physician1 published a treatise1 in which he declared himself a partisan of tea1 and asserted that this beverage in no way could injure the stomach1 even if drank to the extent of two hundred cups a day4 ,many of his countrymen went even beyond this3 they made of it a universal panacea4 ,as at first the leaves of the tea plant were rare and but little known1 many persons thought they had discovered in ,europe what others fetched from such a distance4 ,thus ,simon ,pauli introduced the royal pimento 7myria gale of ,,linn471 as the real tea of ,china4 ,others thought to have found the marvellous virtues of tea in plants growing in our own country1 such as marjoram1 veronica1 myrtle1 sage1 agrimony1 c42 but it happily ended in granting the preference to the real tea of ,china and ,japan4 ,,coffee4 ,in the trade five principal kinds of coffee are enumerated--or rather1 five sorts--according to the different countries from whence they come1 although all derived from the same kind of coffee tree1 ,coffea ,arabica4 ,these five kinds are as follows3-- #ast4 ,mocha coffee1 thus called from the country whence this kind of coffee originates1 a plant now so commonly spread over every ,american colony4 ,the grain of this coffee is generally round and small4 ,from ,mocha coffee is derived the most sweet and agreeable beverage2 it is also the most esteemed1 the dearest1 and holds the first rank in the trade4 #bnd4 ,the ,bourbon coffee1 cultivated in the ,island of ,bourbon2 for some time it occupied the second place in quality1 but the gourmets prefer to it coffee from ,martinique or ,guadaloupe4 #crd4 ,there are several kinds of ,martinique or ,guadaloupe1 distinguished by the various preparations4 #dth4 ,the ,cayenne coffee4 ,this kind is less known on account of the small quantity cultivated there1 and introduced in trade4 ,this kind is superior to the ,martinique coffee4 #eth4 ,the ,st4 ,domingo coffee1 in which is comprised that from ,porto ,rico1 and other leeward islands1 is considered inferior to the four other kinds4 ,let us mention a few of the methods by which coffee in infusion is obtained4 ,it is not exactly known who introduced the custom of taking coffee4 ,some attribute its use to the prior of a convent1 who becoming acquainted with the properties of this plant by the effect it produced on the goats which fed upon it1 tried its influence on his monks1 in order to keep them awake during the performance of divine service4 ,according to others1 the discovery is due to a mufti1 who1 wishing to surpass in devotion the most religious dervishes1 made use of coffee so as to banish sleep1 and thus be enabled to pray longer without interruption4 ,whatever may be the origin of the use of coffee1 it has become so general up to the present day that it may almost be classed among the articles of the greatest necessity4 ,this extensive use has stimulated the industry of inventors to seek means of rendering it most pleasant to drink1 as also its great consumption and high price have awaked both economy and fraud1 in order to find a substitute for this agreeable beverage4 ,it would be useless here to describe the different methods of making coffee2 it will be sufficient to mention that all those which tend to prepare it without boiling the water in which the pulverised coffee is placed1 are almost equally good4 ,in order to supplant coffee1 which in ,europe was found very expensive1 many different means have been tried4 ,about fifty years since the ,swiss porter of a nobleman in ,paris thought of roasting acorns1 which he mixed with roast coffee1 ground2 he sold it cheaper than any one2 all bought it1 and the ,swiss made his fortune4 ,the trick1 however1 being discovered1 all sought means of gratifying their taste without emptying their purses2 barley and rye began to be mixed with coffee4 ,in the mountains of ,virginia1 in ,america1 the inhabitants make a coffee simply of roasted rye2 they by these means obtain a beverage in no way resembling coffee1 but it goes by that name1 and at least the imagination is satisfied4 ,in ,belgium1 in the province of ,liege1 coffee is mixed with wild chicory root4 ,this method1 generally known1 is at the present time practised throughout the whole of ,europe2 and wild chicory root then opened for ,liege a new branch of commerce4 ,lastly1 in ,flanders some of the inhabitants cultivate the lupin1 which they complacently call coffee1 and whose seed1 roasted1 they drink instead of real coffee4 8,the infusion of coffee is thought to be beneficial to stout and phlegmatic persons1 and for pains in the head2 but it appears that its admixture with cream or milk prevents these good effects1 on account of the relaxation it thus causes to the stomach4 ,on the contrary1 it gives strength when taken pure4 ,it is doubtless for this reason that the inhabitants of the colonies take it three and four times a day--that is1 at four o'clock in the morning1 a very strong infusion1 sometimes without sugar2 at breakfast1 with milk2 after dinner1 pure2 and often in the afternoon1 for the fourth time40--,,beauvais4 ,we are unacquainted with the period of the introduction of coffee into ,europe4 ,rauwolf is the first who speaks of coffee1 in #aehh4 ,prospero ,alpini then came1 and described the coffee tree in ,egypt by the name of bon1 bun1 or boun3 his work appeared in #aeia4 ,in #afad1 ,bacon mentioned this oriental beverage1 and ,meissner published a treatise on it in #afba4 ,it was not1 however1 until towards the year #afde1 that it began to be drunk in ,italy4 ,the first cafs were opened in ,london in #afeb1 and in ,paris in #affi1 a time at which a pound of coffee was worth forty crowns4 ,it was principally ,soliman ,aga1 the ambassador from ,turkey1 who caused coffee to become fashionable in ,paris4 ,it penetrated into ,sweden in the year #afgd1 where it was thought of use in scorbutic diseases4 ,the first person who made trial of coffee with milk was ,nieuhoff1 the ,dutch ambassador in ,china1 in imitation of tea with milk4 8,the physical effects of coffee are well known3 it accelerates the circulation of the blood1 but sometimes causes palpitation of the heart and giddiness2 it has even been thought to occasion apoplexy and paralysis4 ,nevertheless1 celebrated writers--such as ,fontenelle and ,voltaire--made constant use of it1 almost to an abuse4 ,they were told1 it is a slow poison2 it was indeed slow for these learned men1 who died1 the one at a hundred1 the other eighty-four years of age4 ,however1 at the present time coffee is a beverage whose power over our intellectual or moral habits has1 perhaps1 never been calculated as it deserves1 since it has become general1 and almost suppressed the drunkenness which disgraced our ancestors at the end of their grand repasts40--,,virey4 ,the subject we have just slightly touched upon recalls to our recollection a whim of the charming ,svign3 8,le caf et ,racine passeront10 said this amiable lady1 nearly two hundred years ago4 ,the beautiful marchioness was mistaken3 both coffee and ,racine have remained1 and do not appear likely soon to bid us adieu4 ,,chocolate4 ,every one is aware that chocolate is an aliment obtained from the cocoa-nut1 roasted and reduced to paste1 with sugar and aromatics4 ,but first1 the choice of cocoa nuts is not indifferent4 ,those from ,soconusco1 from ,caracas1 and ,maracaibo1 are the best and sweetest2 it is1 however1 well to mix with them other kinds1 to correct their insipidity by a certain sharpness far from being unpleasant2 thus1 to four parts of ,caracas cocoa1 earthed--that is1 rendered mild by a sojourn of some weeks under the moist earth--a part of cocoa from the ,antilles1 or ,maragnon and ,para1 is added2 this kind contains more of sharp and bitter matter4 ,these cocoas are slightly torrefied in an iron pan4 ,the ,spaniards burn their cocoa much less than the ,italians4 ,being left to grow cold1 this cocoa is slightly crushed1 to separate the envelopes or shells1 which are thrown away4 ,however1 in ,england1 ,switzerland1 and ,germany1 these shells serve to make1 with boiling water1 a warm infusion1 mixed with milk and drank in lieu of real chocolate4 ,the envelopes of torrefied coffee are employed in a similar manner in the east for the 8,sultana coffee40 ,the mixtures of torrefied cocoa are reduced into a fat paste of a brown colour1 either between stones1 or by means of an iron roller upon a porphyry rock1 warmed underneath by live coals2 this paste1 regularly ground1 is at last incorporated with sugar1 equal to its weight1 then it is mixed together as perfectly as possible4 ,in this chocolat de sant a small quantity of very fine cinnamon powder is admitted1 which makes it more palatable1 and neutralizes the action of the fat and heavy substance1 or vegetable butter1 contained in the cocoa4 8,the term chocolate belongs1 it is said1 to the language of the ,mexicans1 and is derived from the two words choco1 sound or noise1 and atle1 water1 because it is beaten in boiling water to make it froth1 according to the custom of this people4 ,before their conquest by the ,spaniards1 it formed the principal aliment of the ,mexicans4 ,they held the cocoa tree in such estimation1 that its kernel served as current coin1 and this custom even now remains40--,,humboldt4 ,the ,mexican chocolate1 besides the pimento1 contained the chile1 or ,indian wheat-flour1 with honey1 or sweet juice of the agava4 ,to this was added annotto1 an astringent tinctorial juice1 of a rosy hue1 obtained from the seeds of the ,bixa ,orleana4 ,the chieftains1 or lords and warriors only1 enjoyed the right of feeding on chocolate1 as the most restoring aliment1 and the most capable1 in their opinion1 of repairing worn-out strength and producing vigour4 ,the addition of the perfume of vanilla1 again1 augments this quality1 according to the testimony of physicians and travellers4 ,dias of ,castilho relates that ,montezuma drank vanilla chocolate1 and the ,marchal de ,bellisle says1 in his 8,testament ,politique10 that the regent1 ,louis ,philippe d',orlans regaled himself every morning with chocolate at his petit lever4 ,the ladies of ,chiapa1 in ,mexico1 are so fond of these perfumed chocolates that they even have them carried to eat in church4 ,the ,spanish ,creole nuns have also brought to great perfection the art of preparing fine chocolate1 perfumed with amber4 ,the use of chocolate was soon brought from ,mexico1 after its conquest by ,fernando ,cortes1 into ,spain1 and this food has there become quite habitual4 ,first1 it easily deceives hunger by reason of its oily qualities and slow digestion2 then it is softening and cooling1 which renders it particularly desirable in warm climates1 especially such as the ,iberian peninsula4 ,thus the ,spaniards but slightly roast their cocoa-nuts2 they prefer preserving but a very slight bitterness1 and mixing with it more aromatics4 ,besides1 chocolate1 so useful to dry and nervous temperaments1 is an agreeable analeptic1 recommended against hypochondria and melancholy1 two affections so common to the ,spaniards4 ,the beggars1 even1 could not live without it1 and they accost each other in the morning with inquiring if their lordships have taken their chocolate4 ,this aliment is favourable to idleness1 augments the calm of the body and mind1 and plunges one in a sweet quietude of far niente at a small expense4 ,from ,spain the fashion of taking chocolate was introduced into ,italy1 especially by the ,florentine1 ,antonio ,carletti4 ,the ,italians extract from cocoa more exalted qualities by torrefication3 they burn it till it becomes bitter4 ,the grave question arose among them1 whether chocolate taken in the morning by the monks broke the fast principally in ,lent4 ,the ,cardinal ,brancaccio1 and other learned casuists1 battled long in order to prove that chocolate1 being evidently a beverage made of water1 could not be in the least considered as an aliment1 nor break the fast4 ,we see1 indeed1 in the correspondence of the ,princess des ,ursins--all powerful at the court of ,philip ,v4 of ,spain--and ,madame de ,maintenon1 that the consciences of pious persons had been placed in full tranquillity by this decision1 and that any one might fast during the whole ,lent as perfectly by drinking chocolate as if he had only partaken of a glass of cold water4 8,chocolate became pretty common in ,france from the time of ,anne of ,austria1 mother of ,louis ,,xiv42 however1 it does not appear to have ever excited the same enthusiasm as coffee2 it is not favourable to good cheer1 nor is it exhilarating4 ,to this may be traced1 perhaps1 the indifference of the ,english for this beverage40--,,virey4 ,in trade1 as we have said1 are distinguished a great variety of cocoas1 and they are called by the name of the country whence they come4 ,thus we have the ,caracas cocoa1 the ,surinam cocoa1 c4 ,that which comes from the ,french possessions is called also 8cocoa of the isles40 ,the ,caracas is the most esteemed of all3 it is more oily than the other kinds1 and has no sharpness of flavour4 ,it is known by being larger1 rough1 of an ovoid1 oblong shape1 not flattened1 covered with a greyish dust1 and by the kernel being easily divided into several irregular fragments4 8,the name of cacao1 of which in ,french has been made the word cacaoyer1 is that given by the inhabitants of ,guiana to this grain4 ,as to the scientific name1 theobroma1 ,linnus formed it from two ,greek words1 signifying #8food of the gods4'nbsp20--,,demezil4 ,,xxvii4 ,,drinking ,,cups4 ,if men were wiser1 the #aith century would probably not have seen a beneficent apostle preaching temperance everywhere1 and making his name cherished and celebrated by a series of successes which could hardly have been expected2 numerous societies of ,hydropotes1 or 8teetotallers10 would not alarm1 in our days1 those joyful disciples of ,bacchus's temple1 hydrophobes by profession1 by taste1 and interest1 who sincerely bewail the desertion of newly made abstemious members2 and no person would promise1 by a solemn and formidable pledge1 to forego the drinking of anything but water6 ,the abuse must have been very great1 since it was necessary to have recourse to such a remedy4 ,it is true that the evil had taken deep root1 and that the most ancient people1 the gods1 and the heroes1 have left us examples of this dangerous seduction4 ,the ,scythians1 the ,celts1 ,iberians1 and ,thracians1,,xxvii-#a were confirmed drunkards4 ,the wise ,nestor himself1 who was so good a match for ,agamemnon1 often felt some difficulty in finding his tent4,,xxvii-#b ,alexander the ,great slept sometimes two days and two nights1 after having paid too much devotion to the god of good cheer2,,xxvii-#c and ,philip1 his father1 very frequently left the table with a very heavy head and staggering legs4,,xxvii-#d ,it is reported that ,dionysius the ,younger1 tyrant of ,sicily1 lost his sight through drinking too much1 which will not be wondered at1 if ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xviii4 ,no4 #a4 ,drinking-cup1 of terra cotta1 in the form of a pig's head1 found at ,herculaneum4--,,hamilton1 ,i41 ,i,ie4 ,no4 #b4 ,also that of a dog's head4--,,caylus1 ,i41 ,plan #ce4 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #ah4 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #ah;,a what is supposed1 be true1 that this miserable man was drunk every day1 without fail1 for three months together6,,xxvii-#e ,shall we mention ,tiberius--surnamed by the army1 ,biberius 7,tippler7--who1 after he became ,emperor1 passed the days and nights drinking with ,flaccus and ,piso1 at the very time they were working at the reformation of the ,romans8,,xxvii-#f ,this pagan ,solomon1 having to choose from among several very distinguished candidates who offered themselves for the qustorship1 preferred the least known1 because he had drunk a whole pitcher of wine1 which the prince himself had condescended to fill4,,xxvii-#g ,intoxication1 with the ,greeks1 was noted as belonging to low company1 if we are to judge by certain personages whom schylus and ,sophocles did not fear to bring on the stage1 and who struck each other with vases--a thing which the modern theatre has judiciously banished4,,xxvii-#h ,homer is more reserved2 for ,achilles1 after copious libations1 only threw a neat's foot at ,ulysses' head1,,xxvii-#i which probably was not of much consequence4 ,the fact is1 that the ancients did not at all profess the same principles that we do respecting intemperance4 ,hippocrates himself1 advised men to seek mirth now and then in wine2,,xxvii-#aj ,seneca recommends us to drown cares and fatigue in it2,,xxvii-#aa and ,musus decorates with crowns of flowers the foreheads of the sages who1 sitting by the side of ,plato at all new banquets1 should find in continual drunkenness the sweetest reward for their virtues4,,xxvii-#ab ,a singular bliss1 which only reason in delirium could have imagined4 ,we have spoken of the delicious beverage which was so costly a seduction to choice epicureans1 who took merit to themselves for not resisting it2 for this reason1 it was necessary to invent vessels worthy of containing it2 and art1 encouraged by luxury1 produced those magnificent vases of which ostentatious antiquity has only left us a faint idea4 ,the cups of the ,homeric times were all of equal capacity2 one of them was offered to each guest1 but several were offered to persons of high distinction4,,xxvii-#ac ,the ,greeks thought much of their cups2 for them they were sacred relics from father to son1 and were only used on certain solemnities4 ,thus dipus delivers the most frightful imprecation against his son ,polynices1 who had presented1 at a common repast1 the cup of his ancestors4,,xxvii-#ad ,that of ,nestor was so large that a young man could hardly carry it2 as to him1 he lifted it up without the slightest difficulty4,,xxvii-#ae ,the ,athenians drank from cups in the shape of horns4,,xxvii-#af ,wax vases were sufficient for the ,spaniards4,,xxvii-#ag ,the ,gaul who had thrown down an ,urus 7wild ox7 took its horns1 decorated them with silver and gold rings1 and made his guests drink out of them4,,xxvii-#ah ,often the skull of an enemy1 killed in single combat1 was transformed into a cup of honour1 and reminded a ,gallic family of the memorable action of a valiant ancestor4,,xxvii-#ai ,the first cups of the ,romans were made of horns1 or of the earthenware of ,samos4,,xxvii-#bj ,those conquerors of the world had not yet enervated their manly courage with the luxurious spoils of conquered nations4 ,afterwards1 some very simple ones were made of beech-wood,,xxvii-#ba or elder2,,xxvii-#bb these possessed a marvellous property which they ought to have always preserved--the wine only escaped from them1 and they retained the water which had been mixed with it4,,xxvii-#bc ,but ,rome1 already tired of its austere simplicity1 and its disdain for the ,greek cups of glass and crystal1 soon began to desire something finer4 ,those magnificent chalices1 master-pieces of patience and skill1 in which gold and silver were amalgamated with a more brittle material1,,xxvii-#bd were soon in much request1 and appeared worthy of their renown4 ,but it is to be observed1 that the crystal of which the most precious cups were made1 had not the slightest similarity to that which we make use of now1 and which the least shock will break2 it was flexible and malleable2,,xxvii-#be it might be thrown on the pavement with impunity1 and remained unhurt4,,xxvii-#bf ,here is1 on this subject1 a curious anecdote1 which has been left to us by ,petronius3-- ,a certain skilful workman used to make crystal vases as strong as vases of gold and silver4 ,he produced an incomparable masterpiece2 it was a chalice of astonishing beauty1 which he thought worthy of ,csar only1 and which he felt a pride in offering to him4 ,tiberius highly praised the skill and the rich present of the artist4 ,this man1 wishing to increase still more the admiration of the prince1 and secure his favours to a greater degree1 begged of him to give back the vase4 ,he then threw it with all his might on the marble pavement of the ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xix4 ,nos4 #a4 and #b4 ,drinking horns2 these give us an idea how the ancient ,greeks and ,romans made use of the horns3 taken from two paintings at ,herculaneum4 ,no4 #c4 ,a horn1 with a chimerical head1 in ,grecian terra cotta4--8,herculan4 ,bronsi10 ,,ii41 #b1 #c4 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #ai4 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #bj apartment3 the hardest metal could never have resisted this terrible shock4 ,csar appeared moved1 and was silent4 ,the artist1 with a triumphant smile1 picked up the vase1 which had only a slight dent1 and which1 by striking it with the hammer1 was soon brought to its original state4 ,this being done1 no doubt remained on his mind that he had conquered the good graces of the ,emperor1 and the esteem of an astonished court4 ,tiberius asked him if he was the only one who knew how to work crystal in so remarkable a manner8 ,the workman immediately answered that no one possessed his secret4 8,very well10 said ,csar1 8let his head be struck off without loss of time2 for if this strange invention were known1 gold and silver would very soon have not the least value40,,xxvii-#bg ,thus did the ,emperor ,tiberius encourage artists and the arts4 ,there were1 besides1 cups made of the most pure crystal1 8the brittleness of which seems to have added to their price10,,xxvii-#bh and which were paid for dearer than gold and precious stones2,,xxvii-#bi but much less1 however1 than those famous ,murrhine vases1 which have so long exercised the useless sagacity of ancient commentators4 ,among the rich spoils that ,pompey1 conqueror of ,mithridates and master of a part of ,asia1 ostentatiously displayed in his triumph1,,xxvii-#cj the ,romans1 for the first time1 admired vases and cups1 the material and workmanship of which surpassed all that the imagination could fancy the most graceful and delicate4,,xxvii-#ca ,they were much in request2 the price was exorbitant1 and thenceforth they were indispensable4 ,one of the ancient consuls thought himself too happy to give only a little more than #f1jjj for one of those ,murrhines4 ,such was the name given to this brittle and rare novelty4 ,petronius paid for a large basin #bh1hjj2 ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xx4 ,this vase1 made of one single piece of crystal1 is in its original size2 the delicacy of the work gives a great value to it4 ,the body of the vase1 and all other parts in relief1 are of glass4 ,it was discovered in #agbe1 and is preserved in the cabinet of the ,marquis of ,trivulsi1 at ,milan4 ,the fillet round the body1 and those forming the ordinary motto of the feasts--8,,bibe ,,vivas ,,multis ,,annis0--are isolated from the body of the cup about one quarter of an inch1 and are attached to it by threads or fillets of glass1 very fine4 ,they are not soldered to the cup1 but the whole of the labour is worked on a turning lathe1 being seen more or less angular as the instrument may have been led to penetrate in the most difficult parts4 ,the inscription is green2 the fillet is blue3 these two colours are very bright4 ,the cup is an opaque or changing colour1 without being able to distinguish whether that hue was intended to be so1 as it happens to glass which has remained a long while buried1 exposed to the vapours of a dunghill1 or a sewer1 c41 c4 ,a second antique vase is known to exist1 whose workmanship is similar4--8,histoire de l',art10 ,liv4 ,i41 ,chap4 ,i41 page #de4--,paris3 ,janson4 and ,nero spent the like sum for a vase with two handles1 which he forgot two days afterwards4,,xxvii-#cb ,the ,murrhine cups appeared on the table with the wine of the 8hundred leaves10 and the ,falernian was poured into them1 so as to preserve all the generous delicacy of its odour4,,xxvii-#cc ,the ,murrhines were much sought after1 on account of their form and brilliant transparency3 they were made of mother of pearl1 according to ,belon1 but others say of agate4 ,their dimensions1 however1 would incline one to doubt it4 ,scaliger1,,xxvii-#cd ,cardan1,,xxvii-#ce and ,madame ,dacier1,,xxvii-#cf thought that the ancients gave unheard-of prices for simple porcelain vases1 which were precious on account of their rarity4 ,this opinion1 which several modern literati,,xxvii-#cg have adopted1 rests plausibly enough1 it appears1 on one verse of ,propertius1 in which this poet speaks of 8,murrhine cups1 baked in the furnace of the ,parthians40,,xxvii-#ch ,it has been said that1 perhaps the ,parthians learnt from the ,chinese how to make porcelain2 but this supposition1 entirely void of proof1 has been contradicted in a most peremptory manner by the author of a very curious book1 who demonstrates irrefragably that the ,murrhines were not of porcelain1 but of stones of the species of onyx4,,xxvii-#ci ,the following fact will leave but very little doubt on that subject3-- ,in #agia1 the ,constituent ,national ,assembly1 appointed a commission to make an inventory and valuation of all objects in the ,garde-,meuble of the crown4 ,they found1 among other very beautiful sardonyx1 two very antique vases3 one made in the form of an ewer1 ten inches in height and four inches in diameter1 having its handle cut out of the same piece1 and the second1 hollowed out as a bowl1 ten inches in diameter1 which were recognised as real ,murrhines--beautiful white and blue veins and other shades1 circulated about the bowl without interfering with its semi-transparency2 the bottom was of the same colour as the ewer4 ,the jewellers estimated these vases at #f1jjj each1 although there was nothing engraved in the hollow nor in relief1 but merely on consideration of the beauty of the material1 the fineness of the polish1 and the difficulty that must have attended the hollowing out of the ewer4,,xxvii-#dj ,these valuations would appear exaggerated1 if it were not known that the antique vase of the ,duke of ,brunswick1 which formerly belonged to the ,dukes of ,mantua1 in #afca1 and made of sardonyx1 in the cruet shape1 was valued at #aej1jjj ,german crowns--or dollars of #ds4 #c;d4 ,the relief ,illustration3 ,pl4 #ba ,,murrhin ,,cup4 engraving represented the mysteries of ,ceres and ,bacchus2 but it had no primitive handle1 and the diameter was only two inches and a-half4,,xxvii-#da ,by the side of these inestimable ,murrhines were standing very graceful chalices of amber1 the prodigious workmanship of which absolutely gave to them a most arbitrary value1,,xxvii-#db but which ,roman prodigality never found too high4 ,silver cups engraved were also nearly as much esteemed1 when they came from the hands of some well-known workman--such as ,myos1 ,mentor1 or ,myron4,,xxvii-#dc ,they were even preferred to gold cups1,,xxvii-#dd unless these latter were enriched with precious stones4,,xxvii-#de ,all these vases presented still greater varieties in their forms than in the materials employed4 ,there were very large ones1 some narrow1 some oblong2 many ornamented with two handles1 others had only one4,,xxvii-#df ,some were much like a tympanon--or zoph1 a musical instrument of the ancient ,hebrews--a small boat or ewer4,,xxvii-#dg ,in one word1 the ,greek or ,roman artist never listened to anything but his own fancy1 and was then far from supposing that he was preparing very long and wakeful hours of study to many antiquarians1 zealous to explain seriously the strange wanderings of a fantastical imagination4 ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xxi4 ,,murrhine ,,vase4--,this vase is the most precious of all those which have come down to us4 ,it is drawn here half the original size1 and belongs to ,prince de ,biscari1 in ,sicily1 which has been described by him in the dissertation entitled1 8,de ,vasi ,murrini ,ragionamenti40 ,three pieces of opal in the first place form the cup2 the second1 the stem2 and the last1 the base of the foot4 ,if this vase is an antique1 as it is said by the ,prince de ,biscari2 if true that several pieces of opal have often been found as large and as fine 7which appears doubtful1 in the actual state of mineralogic knowledge71 the question upon the ,murrhine vases would be decided4 ,they would have been of opal1 and not porcelain2 neither of sardonyx--,pierre de lard--as many have believed1 nor of cacholong 7a species of chalcedony1 opaque1 and of a yellowish white71 as ,i have described it4 ,,xxviii4 ,,wine4 ,bacchus1 son of ,ammon1 was born in ,egypt1 and was the first who taught his countrymen the art of cultivating the vine1 and of making wine4 ,he is the same as ,osiris1 the famous conqueror of ,india4,,xxviii-#a ,should this assertion be contradicted1 we shall only entreat any and every disputant to make his own choice of the god of vineyards1 from among the five heroes bearing the name of ,bacchus1 as we are too impartial to prefer any one in particular4,,xxviii-#b nopion1 worthy son of one of these heroes1 enriched the inhabitants of ,chios with the first rosy wine that ever yet obscured their reason4,,xxviii-#c ,greece1 ,italy1 and ,sicily owed this wonderful liquor to the ,egyptians4 ,the ,gauls received this sweet present from a ,tuscan1 who had been banished from ,clusium1 his country2,,xxviii-#d and the cultivation of the grape spread rapidly till the reign of the sanguinary ,domitian1 who completed the catalogue of his crimes by tearing up the vines4,,xxviii-#e ,the ,emperor ,probus restored them to the disconsolate ,gauls4,,xxviii-#f ,that prince was certainly worthy of his name6 ,modern science1 agreeing with holy writ1,,xxviii-#g looks upon the east as the common cradle of the vine and the human race4 ,palestine was renowned for its vines4 ,pliny speaks in praise of them4,,xxviii-#h ,the vineyards constituted a part of the riches of the country1 and they were preserved with the greatest care2 so much so that ,moses1 with an especial view to vines1 forbade the sowing of different seeds in the same field1 on pain of confiscation3,,xxviii-#i and it was done to encourage their cultivation1 that that wise legislator exempted every person who had planted one from military service1 and from all public duties1 until the first vintage4,,xxviii-#aj ,the growths of ,lebanon1,,xxviii-#aa of ,helbon1,,xxviii-#ab and of ,sorec1,,xxviii-#ac enjoyed an extraordinary reputation1 and the delicious wine they produced was capable of inspiring the lyric ,david with that celebrated praise,,xxviii-#ad by which intemperance has often dared to authorize reprehensible excesses4 ,however1 the ,hebrews1 a sober people1 like all eastern nations1 rarely made use of pure wine2 they generally mixed it with a quantity of water1 and only drank a little at some ceremonial feasts1 and at the end of their repasts4,,xxviii-#ae ,they sometimes mixed with it perfumes and odoriferous drugs4,,xxviii-#af ,some nations seem to have had a great horror of wine4 ,the ,persians drank nothing but water2,,xxviii-#ag and the inhabitants of ,pontus1 the ,scythians1 and the ,cappadocians1 partook of this strange taste4,,xxviii-#ah ,the ,arcadians1 who lived on chesnuts and acorns1 were not worthy of the favours of ,bacchus2 neither were the troglodytes1 the ichthyophagists1 and other swarms of hydropotes who were as yet too little civilized to ask of drunkenness its illusions and its enchantments4,,xxviii-#ai ,the ,egyptians would have thought it a profanation of their temples to carry in a flagon of the rosy liquid2 but ,psammetichus came 7#fgj ,b4,c471 and that wise prince made them understand that a pot of beer is not worth a cup of good wine4,,xxviii-#bj ,the ,romans asserted that their old king1 ,janus1 planted the first vine in ,italy1,,xxviii-#ba and that1 later1 ,numa taught them how to trim it4,,xxviii-#bb ,that noble people knew how to appreciate such blessings1 and in order to demonstrate that wisdom is always to be found in wine1 they never failed to place on their altars the statue of ,minerva beside that of ,bacchus4,,xxviii-#bc ,the inflexible muse of history has preserved to us the name of the individual who doomed himself to a sorry sort of immortality by inventing the custom of mixing water with wine2 it was ,cranas1 ,king of ,athens1 #aecb ,b4,c4,,xxviii-#bd ,the gods1 doubtless to punish him1 caused a great part of ,greece to be inundated1 and it was not long before he was dethroned4,,xxviii-#be ,pliny accuses the obscure ,staphil1 sou of ,sithen1,,xxviii-#bf of this depravation of taste1 which gained upon imitators to such an extent that1 in the time of ,diodorus of ,sicily 7#de ,b4,c471 the guests still mixed water with their wine at the end of the repast4,,xxviii-#bg ,it is true that they were then all intoxicated4 ,lycurgus was1 no doubt1 ignorant of this practice1 when he had the barbarity to destroy the vines of the ,lacedmonians1 under pretext of putting an end to the disorders caused by intemperance4 ,it would have been preferable1 says ,plutarch1 to have united the nymphs with ,bacchus4,,xxviii-#bh ,the ingenious philosopher insists on the mixture being made by a fourth1 a fifth1 or an octave1 in the same manner as the chords in music1 which charm our ears4 ,the fifth was obtained by pouring three measures of water on two of wine2 one part water and two parts wine made the octave2 a quarter of wine and three quarters of water produced the fourth1,,xxviii-#bi a most inharmonious chord1 struck only by inexperienced and unskilful hands4 ,hippocrates1 great physician as he was1 had already somewhere advised,,xxviii-#cj this deplorable dereliction from all wise doctrines1 so true is it1 that science sometimes goes astray2 but1 happily for his glory1 that learned man1 further on1,,xxviii-#ca recommends us to drink pure wine1 and to drink enough for joy to dissipate our griefs1 and rock us in the sweet errors of hope4 ,the god of grapes had everywhere fervent admirers1 except1 perhaps1 among the ,scythians4 ,these schismatics refused to worship a divinity who caused the faithful to become intoxicated4,,xxviii-#cb ,in other places they sacrificed to him a tiger1 in order to show the power of his empire2,,xxviii-#cc and zealous disciples1 with their heads crowned with branches of the vine1 holding in one hand a crater and in the other a torch1 ran with dishevelled hair about the streets1 shouting to the son of ,jupiter1 the terrible ,evius1,,xxviii-#cd in the silence of the night4,,xxviii-#ce ,the ,romans addressed to him special prayers twice a year1 on the occasion of the wine festivals1,,xxviii-#cf which took place in the months of ,may and ,september4 ,in the first1 they tasted the wine2,,xxviii-#cg and1 during the second1 they implored the god to grant ,italy fine weather and abundant vintages4,,xxviii-#ch ,the god could not reasonably refuse this request1 for the vine-dressers spared neither labour nor fatigue to procure an abundant harvest4 ,they were constantly seen disincumbering the plant of a too luxurious foliage1 thereby exposing the grapes to the sun's rays1 which bring them to maturity1 and breaking with indefatigable perseverance the least clods of earth which1 accumulating around the tendrils1 appeared to fatigue them by their weight4,,xxviii-#ci ,and woe to the thief whom they detected by night stealing any of these carefully reared grapes2 his crime was punished with death1 unless the inexperience of youth pleaded in his favour4 ,in that case a severe flagellation impressed on ,illustration3 ,pl4 #be4 him permanently the remembrance of his fault and of the rights of property4,,xxviii-#dj ,the imperial jurisprudence afterwards softened the ,draconian rigour of this law of the ,decemviri4,,xxviii-#da ,the ancients1 like ourselves1 were fond of seeing fresh grapes appear on their tables at all periods of the year4 ,they preserved them by covering them with barley flour1,,xxviii-#db or by placing fine bunches in rain water1 diminished to a third by boiling4 ,the vase was hermetically sealed with pitch and plaster1 and then placed in a spot where the sun's rays could not enter4 ,this water was an excellent beverage for the sick4,,xxviii-#dc ,the method of making wine was precisely the same both in ,greece and ,italy4 ,the vine gatherers carefully rejected the green grapes1,,xxviii-#dd and piled the others in deep baskets1,,xxviii-#de the contents of which were instantly emptied into large vats4 ,there men1 hardly clothed in the lightest garments1 trampled them under their feet1,,xxviii-#df whilst joyous songs and sounds of flutes hastened their movements1 and animated them to work faster4,,xxviii-#dg ,wine obtained in this manner was much esteemed1 and kept very well4,,xxviii-#dh ,the wort which escaped from the vat as soon as they had thrown in the grapes1 and which came from the pressure occasioned by their laying one on the other1 enjoyed the preference4 ,this first liquor was transformed into an exquisite wine4,,xxviii-#di ,the grapes1 crushed by the feet1 were placed under the press1,,xxviii-#ej and an opening made in the lower part of the vat allowed the wort to flow into earthen jars1 whence it was subsequently poured into the barrels4,,xxviii-#ea ,the press was always raised at a little distance from the cellar and kitchen4,,xxviii-#eb ,its mechanism was very simple4 ,the antiquities of ,herculaneum will furnish us with an example4 ,two trees were firmly fixed in the ground1 at a few feet distance one from the other1 and a strong horizontal beam rested on their summit4 ,other pieces of wood1 similar ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xxii4 ,no4 #a4 ,wine-press1 explained in the text4 ,no4 #b4 ,a large vase1 in which a man is sitting1 supposed to be ,diogenes4 ,this amphora is broken1 and the pieces are joined by ties of lead1 cut dove-tailed4 ,it is a bass-relief1 from the ,villa ,albani1 published by ,winkelman4 ,no4 #c4 ,represents a beast of burthen1 with a pack saddle1 loaded with two amphor4 ,this piece of terra cotta1 drawn the size of the original1 is taken from the collection of children's playthings of ,prince de ,biscari4 ,the difficulty of carriage was so great in mountainous countries1 that the inhabitants of the ,alps substituted for vessels of terra cotta1 casks1 or wooden tubs1 put together with wooden circles1 similar to our own4 7,see ,plate ,,iii41 ,no4 #d41 ,chariot with four wheels1 loaded with a cask47 to the top piece1 were placed underneath4 ,the grapes occupied the space between the vat and the lower plank4 ,between each of the cross planks wedges were introduced1 and two persons kept striking them with hammers1 one on each side2 it is thus the pressure was effected4,,xxviii-#ec ,wine from the press1 inferior to those just mentioned1 served for the ordinary consumption of the family1 and for the servants4,,xxviii-#ed ,it was not racked1 but simply taken from the barrel as it was wanted4,,xxviii-#ee ,the lees were taken from the press when it yielded no more liquor2 a certain quantity of water was poured over them1 and the whole subjected to a second pressure4 ,the weak kind of wine obtained by this new operation must have somewhat resembled that acrid stuff called piquette1 in ,france2 it was the beverage of the people1 and especially of the country people during the winter4,,xxviii-#ef ,a part of the wort--that which was required for immediate use--was put aside1 and clarified with vinegar4,,xxviii-#eg ,a portion of that obtained from the crushed grapes was put to boil on furnaces1 supported on three legs1 at a little distance from the press1 in coppers1 the contents of which were continually stirred4,,xxviii-#eh ,this liquor1 reduced by a third1 was called carenum2,,xxviii-#ei when the half only remained1 it was called defrutum2,,xxviii-#fj and1 lastly1 when the ebullition left only a third part remaining1 this substance1 very similar to honey1 took the name of sapa4,,xxviii-#fa ,it was mixed with flour1 to fatten the snails reared by skilful speculators1 who reserved them for the ,roman sybarites4,,xxviii-#fb ,this wort1 thus prepared by night1 when the moon did not shine1,,xxviii-#fc and carefully skimmed1,,xxviii-#fd served to preserve wines1 to give more body to those which were thought too weak1 and became the base of several beverages sought in preference by ,roman ladies1 at that period of life when maturity of years made alliance with sensuality4,,xxviii-#fe ,those who wished to preserve sweet wine during a whole year1 filled with the second wort--that is to say1 that which was produced by the pression of the feet--some amphor covered with pitch inside and out4 ,they were then hermetically sealed1 and buried in the sand1 or plunged in cold water1 where they remained at least two months4,,xxviii-#ff ,there still was left a large quantity of wort as it came from the grapes4 ,this was taken into the cellar1,,xxviii-#fg which was always situated a little below the level of the ground2 or to the ground floor1 where no kind of smell was allowed to penetrate1 or any emanation capable of spoiling the bouquet of the wine it contained4,,xxviii-#fh ,illustration3 ,pl4 #bf4 ,at ,herculaneum a spacious cellar has been discovered1 round which hogsheads were ranged1 and built into the wall4,,xxviii-#fi ,another cellar1 at ,pompeii1 remarkable for its small size1 is divided into two compartments1 both containing barrels1 and divided one from the other by an horizontal wall4,,xxviii-#gj ,large earthen vessels were found there1 with and without handles1 very carefully executed1 and smeared with pitch4,,xxviii-#ga ,we know that the cynic1 ,diogenes1 dwelt in one of these vases2 and that the king1 ,alexander1 found him crouching in his strange kind of carapace4,,xxviii-#gb ,the ancients had butts also1 but they used them only in cold countries4,,xxviii-#gc ,the ,dolia--for so they were named--were first subjected to a fumigation with aromatic plants2 then watered with sea-water1 and buried half way in the earth4 ,they were separated each one from another1 and strict attention was paid to see that the cellar contained neither leather1 nor cheese1 nor figs1 nor old casks4 ,sometimes persons who inhabited the country paved the store-room1 spread sand1 and placed the dolia on it4,,xxviii-#gd ,at the end of nine days1 when the fermentation had cleared the wine from those substances it rejects1 they carefully covered the dolia1 after having smeared all the upper part of the inside1 as well as the covers themselves1 with a mixture of defrutum1 saffron1 mastic1 pitch1 and pine nuts4,,xxviii-#ge ,the butts of aqueous wine were exposed to the north2 spirituous wines often braved the rain1 the sun1 and every change of temperature4,,xxviii-#gf ,they accelerated the fining of the wine by throwing in plaster1 chalk1 marble dust1 salt1 resin1 dregs of new wine1 sea-water1 myrrh1 and aromatic herbs4,,xxviii-#gg ,the butts were uncovered once a month1 or more frequently1 in order to refresh the contents2 and before the head was put on again1 it was rubbed with pine nuts4,,xxviii-#gh ,wine was also clarified by drawing it off into another butt1 and mixing yolks of eggs beaten with ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xxiii4 ,,colum ,,nivarium4--,a strainer1 used to separate the dregs from the wine4 ,two are preserved in the collection of ,herculaneum2 they are made of white metal1 and worked with elegance4 ,each is composed of two plates1 round and concave1 of four inches in diameter1 supplied with flat handles4 ,the two dishes 7as it were7 and their handles adapt to each other so well1 that when put together they appear as one2 holes in great number are symmetrically perforated in the upper dish1 which keeps the dregs1 and lets the clear liquid pass through the lower one4 ,the strainer here represented is taken from ,montfaucon's 8,antiquities10 and was found at ,rome1 towards the end of the #agth century4 ,it is of bronze1 and ornamented4 ,on the handles are reliefs in silver1 referring to the worship of ,bacchus4 salt1,,xxviii-#gi or straining it through the colum nivarium 7already described71,,xxviii-#hj covered with a piece of linen4,,xxviii-#ha ,fine wines were kept in the wood for two1 three1 or four years1 according to their different properties2 after which they were transferred to amphor1 and that operation required the greatest care4,,xxviii-#hb ,the amphor were earthen pitchers with two handles1,,xxviii-#hc reserved for choice wines4,,xxviii-#hd ,to prevent evaporation through their pores1 they covered them with pitch1 and stopped the neck with wood or cork1 covered with a mastic composed of pitch1 chalk1 and oil1 or any other fat substance4 ,the name of the wine was inscribed on the amphora2 its age was indicated by the designation of the consuls who were in office when it was made4 ,when the amphora was of glass1 it was ticketed with these details4,,xxviii-#he ,for this kind of vessels they had store-rooms1 which were commonly at the top of the house4,,xxviii-#hf ,by exposing them to the sun and to smoke the maturity of the wine was hastened4,,xxviii-#hg ,the discovery of this means of ripening1 which the ,roman nophiles never failed to practice1 was attributed to the ,consul ,opimius4,,xxviii-#hh ,pliny assures us that the vineyards of the entire world produce #aie different kinds of wine2 or double that number1 if we reckon every variety4,,xxviii-#hi ,the whole universe1 says he1 furnishes only #hj of superior quality1 and of this number1 two-thirds belong to ,italy4,,xxviii-#ij ,modern agriculture must have singularly disturbed the calculations of the ,roman naturalist4 ,let that be as it may1 the best ,greek wines were those of ,thasos1,,xxviii-#ia ,lesbos1,,xxviii-#ib ,chios1,,xxviii-#ic,q and ,cos4,,xxviii-#id ,italy boasted of the ,sentinum1,,xxviii-#ie the ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xxiv4 ,no4 #a4 ,amphora1 or ,dolium4 ,upon one of the handles is engraved the sigles ,p4 ,s4 ,a4 ,x2 the first two1 probably1 are the initials of the proprietor1 and the last describes the capacity of the vase1 being #bej quarts4--,,montfaucon's 8,antiquities10 expl4 ,nos4 #b and #c4 ,smaller ,dolium1 found at ,herculaneum1 buried at the bottom of a cellar4 ,the mouths of these vases were fixed in a marble slab1 and closed with a cover of the same material4 ,there is in the ,villa ,albani1 an amphora of terra cotta of this kind1 which contained #ah ,roman amphor1 or #dfc quarts1 as marked by numerical letters1 engraved upon the outside4 ,in #agej1 one of these amphor was found at ,pouzzole1 which was five feet six inches in height1 and five feet in diameter1 containing #a1gbh quarts4 ,several amphor from ,herculaneum and ,pompeii have inscriptions written in colours1 and which give the name of the ,prtor ,nonnius2 the same as those found at ,rome1 which were inscribed with the name of the consul1 to fix the year of the vintage4 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #bg4 ,falernum1,,xxviii-#if the ,albanum1,,xxviii-#ig and the ,mamertinum4,,xxviii-#ih ,after these1 a number of other excellent wines occupied a very distinguished place in a long nomenclature to be found in ,pliny,,xxviii-#ii and ,athenus4,,xxviii-#ajj ,the ancients professed to have a very particular veneration for wines of a renowned growth1 which had ripened slowly in amphor4 ,some gastronomic archologists produced1 on their tables certain wines which had so far dried up in leather bottles1 that they were taken out in lumps2,,xxviii-#aja others1 placed in the chimney corner1 became in time as hard as salt4,,xxviii-#ajb ,petronius speaks of a wine of a hundred leaves4,,xxviii-#ajc ,pliny says that guests were served with wine more than two hundred years old3 it was as thick as honey4,,xxviii-#ajd ,this wine was thinned with warm water1 and passed through the straining bag 7saccatio vinorum74,,xxviii-#aje ,this predilection for good old wine was common to the ,greeks2,,xxviii-#ajf the ,romans--who liked it for the bitterness it had contracted by age2,,xxviii-#ajg and the ,egyptians1 who1 notwithstanding their time-honoured love of beer1 were not unjust towards the beverage with which their ,osiris found it so delightful to intoxicate himself4,,xxviii-#ajh ,athenus sets no bounds to his praise of old wine4 ,he says it is excellent for the health2 it is the best thing to dissolve the food2 it strengthens2 it assists the circulation of the blood1 and assures a peaceful sleep4,,xxviii-#aji ,who1 then1 would be ungrateful enough to refuse to drink8 ,the topers of antiquity did not disdain white wine1 but they seem to have viewed it as of secondary importance4 ,it digests easily1 says the writer just cited1 but it is weak1 and has but little body4,,xxviii-#aaj ,red wine1 on the contrary1 is full of strength and energy1 and it is the first that the inhabitants of ,chios learned to make1,,xxviii-#aaa when nopion1 the son of ,bacchus1 had planted the vine in their country4,,xxviii-#aab ,however1 there was no lack of amateurs of white wine1 and1 like ourselves1 the ancients doubtless preferred it when they eat snails1 oysters1 or any of those shell fish with which the ,lucrine lake abounded4 ,they even took it into their heads 7how ingenious is gluttony67 to change red wine sometimes into white4 ,to do this it was only necessary to put three whites of egg1 or some bean flour1 into a flagon1 and shake it a long time4 ,the same result was obtained with ashes from the white vine4,,xxviii4#aac ,now1 is ,apicius jesting with us a little when he gives this recipe2 or was it a legerdemain trick to amuse the guests at the end of a repast1 when too frequent libations had rendered them incapable of distinguishing clearly one colour from another8 ,the ,greeks endeavoured to preclude the disastrous effects of intoxication by putting sea-water into the wine2 a mixture which they also thought had the effect of assisting digestion4 ,one measure of water was enough for fifty measures of wine4,,xxviii-#aad ,and1 again1 the merchants of that nation took so much interest in the health of foreign consumers that they never shipped the wines of the ,archipelago for ,rome or elsewhere without diluting them in this manner4 ,such1 for example1 was the course followed in concocting that celebrated wine of ,chios1 which ,cato imitated so as to deceive the best judges4,,xxviii-#aae ,that honest geoponic has transmitted us his secret4 ,fifty-six pints of old sea-water are thrown into a pipe of sweet wine made with grapes dried in the sun2 or two-thirds of a bushel of salt are put into a rush basket1 and suspended in the middle of the pipe1 where it is left to melt4,,xxviii-#aaf ,this very simple process metamorphoses the most indifferent liquor into that delightful nectar which gave renown and fortune to the isle of ,cos4 ,the saline wine of the ,greeks 7vinum tethalassomenon7 was nothing else4,,xxviii-#aag ,their thalassites wine1 so much in demand in ,italy on account of its apparent age1 owed its reputation to the fact of its having been plunged for some time in the sea4,,xxviii-#aah ,this little trading knavery was a tolerably innocent means of increasing the profits of the speculator1 who hastened the maturity of his wines without employing any of those deleterious ingredients which illicit traders have introduced at a later period4 ,when the wine had remained a sufficient time in the sea to give it age1 it was drawn off into goatskin bottles1 well coated with pitch1 and1 in this manner it supported the longest sea voyages4,,xxviii-#aai ,the following are the made wines most in vogue in olden times4 ,the ,passum was one of those most esteemed in ,rome1 particularly1 when it came from ,crete4,,xxviii-#abj ,it was made with grapes1 spread in the sun until they were reduced in weight to one-half4 ,the pips1 thus dried1 were then put into a butt containing some excellent wort4 ,when they were well soaked1 they were crushed with the feet1 and then subjected to a slight pressure in the wine-press4 ,sometimes they simply plunged the fresh grapes into boiling oil1 instead of exposing them to the sun1 and the result was the same4,,xxviii-#aba ,the ,dulce wine was obtained by drying the grapes in the sun for three days1 and crushing them with the feet on the fourth1 at the time of the greatest heat4,,xxviii-#abb ,the ,emperor ,commodus thought this a most delectable drink4,,xxviii-#abc ,the ,mulsum1 or honeyed wine1 was an exquisite mixture of old ,falernian wine and new honey1 from the ,mount ,hymettus4,,xxviii-#abd ,the physician1 ,clius ,aurelianus1 recommends the holding of warm mulsum in the mouth as a palliative in cases of violent head-ache4,,xxviii-#abe ,the name of ,anisites wine was given to that in which some grains of aniseed had been infused4,,xxviii-#abf ,the ,granatum was prepared by throwing thirty broken pomegranates into a pipe of wine1 and pouring over them ten pints and a-half of a different wine1 hard and sour4 ,this drink was fit for use at the end of thirty days4,,xxviii-#abg ,apicius gives us the recipe for the ,rosatum3--8,put10 says he1 8some rose leaves into a clean linen cloth2 sew it up1 and leave it seven days in the wine2 take out the roses1 and put in fresh ones2 repeat the operation three times1 and then strain the wine4 ,add some honey at the time of drinking4 ,the roses must be fresh1 and free from dew40,,xxviii-#abh ,the ,violatum is made in the same manner1 only violets are used instead of roses4,,xxviii-#abi ,rosatum may also be obtained without roses1 by putting a small basket filled with green lemon leaves into a barrel of new wine before the fermentation has taken place1 and leaving them there for forty days4 ,this wine is to be mixed with honey before it is drunk4,,xxviii-#acj ,myrrh wine--,myrrhinum1 among the ancients--was wine mixed with a little myrrh1 to render it better and make it keep longer4 ,they thought much of it4,,xxviii-#aca ,all these wines1 like those previously mentioned1 were strained through the colum vinarium before they were served to the guests4 ,this strainer was composed of two round1 deep dishes1 of four inches in diameter4 ,the upper part was pierced1 and received the wine1 which ran into the lower recipient1 whence the cups were filled4,,xxviii-#acb ,in ,rome the price of common wine--sometimes adulterated,,xxviii-#acc--was #cjj sesterces for #dj urns1 or #ae sesterces for an amphora2 that is to say1 about sixpence per gallon4,,xxviii-#acd ,at ,athens it was thought dear when it cost fourpence per gallon4 ,this measure was commonly sold for not more than twopence4,,xxviii-#ace ,in the early days of the ,roman republic women were forbidden to drink wine2,,xxviii-#acf but that law fell into disuse1 and noble matrons often carried intemperance as far as their toping husbands4 ,,liqueur ,,wine4 ,it must be owned that the ,roman law was1 for a long time1 tyrannical in the extreme with regard to women4 ,totally interdict the use of wine6 ,kill the unfortunate creatures who were unable to resist the seductions of that dangerous liquor6 ,for the ,roman history furnishes us with more than one example of that atrocious chastisement inflicted on the guilty thirst of the fair sex4 ,the barbarous ,micennius immolated his wife on the butt1 at which he caught her one day1 quenching her thirst at the tap or the bunghole4 ,the ferocious ,romulus thought this act simple and natural3 he did not even reprimand the cruel husband4,,xxviii-#acg ,another unfortunate creature discovered the place where her husband kept the keys of the cellar4 ,she took them1 and had the imprudent curiosity to go and visit the mysterious and inauspicious treasure1 to which she was forbidden all access4 ,her family perceived this innocent larceny1 and refused her every kind of food1 to punish her for an imaginary crime4 ,she died in the tortures of hunger4,,xxviii-#ach ,is it necessary to speak of ,c4 ,domitius1 that uncourteous judge1 who deprived a lady of her marriage portion because she had taken the liberty to drink a spoonful or two of wine unknown to her lord and master8,,xxviii-#aci ,but1 let us say it at once--,roman civilisation put an end to such strange manners2 and so early as the age of ,augustus1 ,livia1 the consort of that emperor1 affirmed1 when eighty-two years old1 that she was indebted to ,bacchus for her long existence4,,xxviii-#adj ,let us remark1 by the way1 that the great prince1 her husband1 honoured the labours of the vine-dresser and the serious study of wines1,,xxviii-#ada to which little attention had been paid down to his time4 ,it began then to be understood that this grateful drink draws the ties of friendship closer1,,xxviii-#adb and all honest people1 all generous souls1 were eager to taste it4 ,the good ,trajan quaffed off numberless cups every day3 of course he became the idol of the human species4,,xxii-#adc ,agricola wished to drink before he died4,,xxii-#add ,the imbecile ,claudius often found some ray of wisdom at the bottom of an amphora4,,xxviii-#ade ,domitian merited the pardon of his crimes1 thanks to the streams of wine which during the night ran from the fountains2,,xxviii-#adf and ,caligula would1 perhaps1 have obtained that popularity which always failed him1 had he possessed sufficient sense to offer to the ,roman people the delicious ,falernian wine he allotted to his favourite horse4,,xxviii-#adg ,the ladies ventured1 in the first place1 to wet their lips with a few drops of those light wines which the sun seemed to ripen for them at ,tibur1 in the environs of ,cum1 and throughout ,campania4,,xxviii-#adh ,after a short time1 they braved the ,falernian itself--true1 they generally mixed it with iced water or snow2,,xxviii-#adi but the boldest are reported to have risked that dangerous liquor without taking such timid precautions4 ,falernian was a noble wine6 ,they began to drink it as soon as it had reached its tenth year4 ,then it was possible to bear up against it4 ,when it was twenty years old1 it could only be mastered after it was diluted with water4 ,if older1 it was unconquerable2 it attacked the nerves1 and caused excruciating headache4,,xxviii-#aej ,the ladies struggled a long time for the victory2 but1 alas6 the ,falernian always had the best of it4 ,tired out1 at length1 with so many useless efforts1 the wisest of them left it to their husbands1 and sought other beverages which possessed less dangerous charms4 ,greece and ,italy invented new drinks for them1 which had a well-merited vogue1 notwithstanding the discredit into which they have fallen for many centuries past4 ,our modern beauties would smile with an air of incredulity if we were to extol asparagus wine1 winter savory wine1 wild marjoram wine1 parsley seed wine1 or those made from mint1 rue1 pennyroyal1 and wild thyme2 and yet these liquors were the delectable drinks of the most distinguished women of ancient ,rome1 of those women who could never find in the culinary productions of the entire universe anything sufficiently delicate or rare4 ,are we1 then1 to blame their taste1 or question our own8 ,leaving aside this knotty question1 which we do not feel ourselves called upon to resolve1 let us state that these different drinks were prepared in a very simple manner4 ,two handfuls of one of the above-named plants were put into a butt of wort2 a pint of sapa and half a pint of sea-water were added4,,xxviii-#aea ,this wine was drunk by the ,greek and ,roman ladies at breakfast1,,xxviii-#aeb and was an excellent substitute for the silatum1 a drink prepared with ochre1 and which we can hardly believe to have been introduced by sensuality alone4,,xxviii-#aec ,it frequently happened1 after a banquet1 that the wearied and palled stomach refused with loathing the least nourishment4 ,an intelligent slave failed not1 under such circumstances1 to present his languishing mistress with a cup of wormwood wine1 before she quitted her couch4 ,anon1 the livid paleness of her complexion brightened into the rosy hue of health1 the dimmed eye resumed its wonted lustre1 and that very evening the brilliant matron could seat herself fearlessly at a fresh banquet4 ,that precious wine1 that fashionable tonic1 which modern sobriety--be it said to our praise--has rendered almost useless1 sold well in ,rome under the reigns of the ,emperors4 ,it was composed by boiling a pound of wormwood in #bdj pints of wort until it was diminished one-third4 ,there was also a more simple method of making it1 which was to throw a few handfuls of wormwood into a butt of wine4,,xxviii-#aed ,the live wood1 or the leaves of the cedar1 the cypress1 the laurel1 the juniper-tree1 or the turpentine-tree1 boiled a long time in wort1 produced different bitter liqueurs1 to which intemperance complacently attributed benign qualities and numerous medical virtues4,,xxviii-#aee ,equal praise may be accorded to hyssop wine1 that famous mixture of three ounces of the plant in twelve pints of wort4,,xxviii-#aef ,its effects were surprising1 and the most popular physicians would not have failed to prescribe it for their languishing patients1 whose strength and gaiety it restored4 ,but1 thank ,heaven6 our ,roman beauties were not always obliged to have recourse to the gloomy experience of the disciples of sculapius2 and when they were in good health1 more exhilarating liqueurs lent their aid to toast their return to health and pleasure4 ,they were then seen sipping myrtle wine1 a mild beverage1 the light vapours of which brought down calm and profound sleep4 ,it was wisdom to drink it2 for1 alas6 not all that would1 can sleep6 ,if the reader be troubled with wakefulness1 he will hail with joy the recipe for this beneficent narcotic4 ,let him take young myrtle branches with the leaves1 pound them1 and boil one pound in eighteen pints of white wine1 until it is reduced to two-thirds4,,xxviii-#aeg ,let him drink this liqueur of the ,roman ladies1 and1 without doubt1 he will sleep as they did4 ,the petites matresses1 those delicate women1 whose life seemed to be a tissue of vapours mingled with tears--,rome abounded with them--would have fainted even at the smell of the wines made up in the manner indicated above4 ,their frail1 nervous organization1 required a different kind of drink1 and one was invented for them1--the ,adynamon4 ,this adynamon1 or wine without strength1 was the most inoffensive of liqueurs4 ,it was obtained by boiling ten pints of water in twenty pints of white wort4,,xxviii-#aeh ,a small cup of this salutary beverage restored a debile ,cynthia1 a sickly ,julia1 when1 negligently seated at her toilet1 a ,botian slave brought a nosegay of lilies instead of a crown of roses4 ,these charming creatures would soon have lost the use of their senses1 if the adynamon had not been promptly applied to their lips4 ,but hardly had they tasted the marvellous liqueur when animation resumed its calm and peaceful course2 nay1 after the lapse of a few seconds1 they were enabled1 without any inconvenience whatever1 to witness the chastisement of the slave1 whose naked shoulders and breasts were lacerated by their orders with a thong studded with sharp points4,,xxviii-#aei ,who1 after that1 would dare doubt the properties of the adynamon wine8 ,the nanthinum wine was destined for more vigorous constitutions1 for natures of less exquisite delicacy4 ,the ,roman ladies1 somewhat fond of rusticating1 who passed a part of the year in their villas1 prepared it by putting two pounds of wild vine flowers into a butt of wort4 ,they were left there thirty days1 and then the liquor was drawn off into other vessels4,,xxviii-#afj ,such were the vinous drinks which fashion formerly brought into repute in the capital of the world4 ,the women set no bounds to their taste for these concocted wines2 but went on from one excess to another as long as the empire lasted4 ,these strange habits1 now buried under the ,roman colossus1 have been replaced by a new order of civilisation4 ,woman1 that graceful being of whom antiquity was not worthy1 now appears such as ,christianity has made her1 to reveal to us virtues which ancient ,greece and ,italy never knew4 ,daughter1 wife1 and mother1 she consoles1 encourages1 and supports man amid the trials of life4 ,her sweet smile welcomes him at the cradle2 her prayer accompanies him to the tomb4 ,it was she who softened the ferocious instincts of the barbarous hordes that the forests of the north vomited over ,europe2 and still exercising her empire over modern society1 she is hailed as a queen1 whose virtues and chaste attractions render her the living embodiment of the flower and the angel1 those sweet symbols of love and beauty1 between which a modern poet has gracefully placed her throne4 99 99 99 99 99 ,the primitive inhabitants of ,great ,britain learned from the ,romans to plant the vine1 under the reign of the ,emperor ,probus4 ,the conquerors taught them also the art of cutting it1 and how to make wine4 ,but1 as ,strutt observes1 the vine could never be of any great utility in this country4 ,it was more ornamental than useful1 with the exception that it afforded the means of procuring a cool retreat and shade4,,xxviii-#afa ,however1 some provinces of ,england became celebrated for their wines4 8,the county of ,gloucester is renowned for its vines10 says ,william of ,malmesbury2 8and the wines it produces are scarcely inferior to those of ,france40,,xxviii-#afb ,saint-,louis was the first who established statutes for the dealers in wine4,,xxviii-#afc ,new ones were framed in #aehe1,,xxviii-#afd and the dealers were then divided into four classes1 each of which was designated by a particular name1 viz41 the inn-keepers1 the publicans1 the tavern-keepers1 and the wine-dealers by measure4 ,the inn-keepers had accommodation for man and horse2 the publicans served drink with table-cloth and plates--that is to say1 they might serve food and drink at the same time2 the tavern-keepers served drink alone2 and the retail dealers could only sell it in considerable quantities at one time4,,xxviii-#afe ,in #afhj these four classes were reduced to two--wine-merchants and retail wine-dealers4 ,under the reign of ,louis ,,xiv41 a great dispute arose concerning the relative merits of ,burgundy and ,champagne wines1 and the preference due to the one or the other4 ,this quarrel originated in a thesis1 maintained at the commencement of the #agth century at the ,medical ,school of ,paris1 in which it was asserted1 that the wine of ,beaune1 in ,burgundy1 was not only the most agreeable but the most wholesome4 ,this thesis excited no murmur at the time3 from the #acth century the wine of ,beaune had always enjoyed the highest reputation1 and no one dreamed of disputing it4 ,but forty years later they risked a proposition much more rash than the preceding one3 it was maintained1 in the same school1 that the wines of ,burgundy were not only preferable to those of ,champagne1 but that the latter attack the nerves1 cause a fermentation of the humours1 and infallibly bring on the gout in persons not naturally subject to it4 ,they fortified this incredible opinion with the authority of the celebrated ,fagon1 chief physician of ,louis ,,xiv41 who had just forbidden the king1 as they said1 the use of ,champagne wine4 ,the ,champagne people took fire--it was time--the dangerous heresy threatened to spread2 so they attacked the ,burgundians bravely4 ,the latter defended themselves with equal courage4 ,the battle waxed warm4 ,each party sought to crush their antagonists with heavy writings4 ,the inhabitants of ,burgundy pretended that the wine of ,champagne owed its vogue entirely to the influence of ,colbert and ,louvois1 the then ministers1 one of whom was a native of ,champagne1 and the other in possession of immense vineyards4 ,the ,champagne growers proved that this assertion was false in every particular4 ,long before the time of these two statesmen1 said they1 the ,french got tipsy on ,champagne wine2 ergo1 they valued that exhilarating liquor4 ,this argument was irrefragable4 ,they might have added that1 from the #afth century1 the wine of ,a1 a canton of ,champagne1 enjoyed such renown that the ,emperor ,charles ,v41 ,pope ,leo ,x41 ,henry ,,viii4 of ,england1 and ,francis ,i4 of ,france1 were anxious to possess this nectar1 and tradition assures us that each of these great sovereigns purchased a close at ,a1 in which a little house was built for a vine-dresser1 who sent them every year a stock of wine1 which enlivened their repasts4,,xxviii-#aff ,the epicureans took part in this great discussion1 and that they might give their judgment after mature deliberation1 founded on a perfect knowledge of facts1 they have been tasting ,champagne and ,burgundy wines these two hundred years4 ,may the vouchers in this suit never fail them6 ,wine was long used for presents and fees--a custom established under ,charlemagne4 ,after a baptism1 a marriage1 or a burial1 the priests received the vicar's wine2 before marriage1 wedding wine was offered to the intended bride2 after a law-suit1 the counsellor was presented with clerk's wine2 the wine of citizenship was given to the mayor of a town in which any person took up his abode4 ,this present subsequently took the name of pot-de-vin 7bribe71 still in great favour4 ,it has changed its character1 certainly1 but the variations have multiplied to infinity4,,xxviii-#afg ,in the middle ages sober people intoxicated themselves regularly once a month4 ,arnaud de ,villeneuve examines seriously the advantages of this ,hygienic custom4,,xxviii-#afh ,there was a kind of glory attached to the swallowing of more wine than any other man without being non compos mentis4 ,there was1 however1 a means of avoiding these bacchanalian encounters4 ,it was1 to choose a champion who1 as in judicial combats1 accepted the challenges for his candidate1 to whom the victory or defeat was attributed1 as if he himself had drank4,,xxviii-#afi ,in the middle ages1 and in the #afth century1 intoxication was severely punished in ,france4 ,by five ordinances1 in the years #hjb1 #hjc1 #haj1 #hab1 and #hac1 ,charlemagne declares habitual drinkers unworthy of being heard before courts of justice in their own cause1 or as witness for another4,,xxviii-#agj ,francis ,i4 decreed1 by an edict1 in the month of ,august1 #aecf1 that whosoever should be found intoxicated was to be imprisoned on bread and water for the first offence2 the second time1 flogging in the prison was added2 the third time1 he was publicly flogged2 and if the offender was incorrigible1 his ears were out off1 he was deemed infamous1 and banished the kingdom4,,xxviii-#aga ,now every one is free to quench his thirst1 and drink more if he chooses4 8,the ,crafte to make ,ypocras4--,take a quarte of red wine1 an ounce of synamon1 ane halfe an once 7ounce7 of gynger1 a quarter of an unnce 7ounce7 of greynes and long pepper1 and halfe a pound of suger1 and brose all this 7not too small71 and then put them in a bage of wullen clothe1 made therefore 7for that purpose71 with the wire1 and it hange over a vessel tyll the wine be run thorowe 7through740,,xxviii-#agb--,quoted by ,,strutt4 ,the ,english were extremely partial to a drink they called ,clarey1 or ,clarre4 ,according to ,arnold,,xxviii-#agc it was compounded in the following manner3-- 8,for eighteen gallons of good wyne1 take halfe a pounde of ginger1 quarter of a pound of long peper1 an ounce of safron1 a quarter of an ounce of coliaundyr1 two ounces of calomole dromatycus1 and the third part as much honey that is clarifyed as of youre wyne1 streyne them through a cloth1 and do it into a clene vessell40 ,john1 in the first year of his reign1 made a law that a tun of ,rochelle wine should not be sold for more than twenty shillings1 a tun of wine from ,anjou for twenty-three shillings1 and a tun of ,french wine for twenty-five shillings1 except some that might be of the very best sort1 which was allowed to be raised to twenty-six shillings and fourpence1 but not for more1 in any case4 ,by retail1 a gallon of ,rochelle wine was to be sold for fourpence1 and a gallon of white wine for sixpence1 and no dearer4,,xxviii-#agd ,,xxix4 ,,repasts4 ,mortals were formerly remarkably sober1 and the gods themselves set them the example1 by feeding exclusively on ambrosia and nectar4,,xxix-#a ,the most illustrious warriors in the ,homeric ages were generally contented with a piece of roast beef2 for a festival1 or a wedding dinner1 the frugal fare was a piece of roast beef2 and the king of kings1 the pompous ,agamemnon1 offered no greater rarity to the august chiefs of ,greece1 assembled round his hospitable table4 ,it is true that the guest to be most honoured received for his own share an entire fillet of beef4,,xxix-#b ,the vigorous but uncultivated appetites of these heroes were hardly satisfied when everything disappeared1 and none of them thought to prolong the pleasures of good cheer4,,xxix-#c ,happy times of ingenuous and ignorant frugality6 what has become of you8 ,it must not1 however1 be imagined that they were entirely destitute of more refined aliments4 ,homer gives to the ,hellespont the epithet of fishy2 ,ithaca1 and several other islands of ,greece1 abounded in excellent game2,,xxix-#d but the magiric genius was asleep--it awoke at a later period4 ,beware1 however1 of a mistake3 those men--with so little choice respecting their viands--all possessed stomachs of astounding capacity4,,xxix-#e ,theagenes1 an athlete of ,thasos1 eat a whole bull2,,xxix-#f ,milo of ,crotona did the same thing--at least once4,,xxix-#g ,titormus had an ox served for supper1 and when he rose from table1 they say not a morsel remained4,,xxix-#h ,astydamas of ,miletus1 invited to supper by the ,persian1 ,ariobarzanes1 devoured a feast prepared for nine persons4,,xxix-#i ,cambis1 ,king of ,lydia1 had such an unfortunate appetite1 that one night the glutton devoured his wife6,,xxix-#aj ,thys1 ,king of the ,paphlagonians1 was afflicted with voracity nearly similar4,,xxix-#aa ,the ,persian ,cantibaris1 eat so much and so long that his jaws were at last tired1 and then attentive servants used to press the food into his mouth4,,xxix-#ab ,these are facts of which we do not exactly guarantee the truth1 for history--it is no secret--has some little resemblance to the microscope3 it frequently magnifies objects by presenting them to us through its deceitful prism4 ,we close this singularly incomplete list of the ancient polyphagists by adding that the ,pharsalians,,xxix-#ac and the ,thessalians,,xxix-#ad were redoubtable eaters1 and that the ,egyptians consumed a prodigious quantity of bread4,,xxix-#ae ,in more modern times1 some men have acquired1 by the energy of their hunger1 an illustration they would have vainly demanded from their genius or their virtues4 ,the ,emperor ,claudius sat down to table at all hours and in any place4 ,one day1 when he was dispensing justice according to his own fashion in the market-place of ,augustus1 his olfactory nerves scented the delicious odour of a feast which exhaled from one of the neighbouring temples4 ,it was the priests of ,mars1 who were merry-making at the expense of the good souls in the surrounding locality4 ,the glutton emperor immediately left his judgment-seat1 and1 without any further ceremony1 went and asked them for a knife and fork4,,xxix-#af ,never1 no1 never1 adds the biographer of this prince1 did he leave a repast until he was distended with food and soaked with drink1 and then only to sleep4 ,yes1 the ignoble ,csar slept2 but still1 the 8peacock's feather10 an unseemly invention of ,roman turpitude1 was called into requisition to prepare the monarch for new excesses4,,xxix-#ag ,galba could taste nothing if he was not served with inconceivable profusion4 ,his stomach imposed limits upon him1 but his eyes knew none2 and when he had gloated to his heart's content upon the magnificent spectacle of innumerable viands for which the universe had been ransacked1 he would have the imperial dessert taken slowly round the table1 and then heaped up to a prodigious height before the astonished guests4,,xxix-#ah ,vitellius1 the boldest liver1 perhaps1 of the whole imperial crew1 and the most active polyphagist of past times1 caused himself to be invited the same day to several senatorial families4 ,this deplorable honour often caused their ruin1 for each repast cost not less than #djj1jjj sesterces 7#c1bjj74 ,the intrepid ,vitellius was equal to the whole1 thanks to the peacock's feather1 which1 doubtless1 was cursed more than once by the unfortunate victims of his dreadful gluttony4,,xxix-#ai ,true1 this poor prince was continually tormented with a hunger that no aliment seemed capable of satisfying4 ,in the sacrifices1 like the ,harpies of whom ,virgil speaks1,,xxix-#bj he took the half-roasted viands from the altars1 and disputed the sacred cakes with the gods4 ,as he passed through the streets he seized the smoking-hot food spread out before the shops and public-houses2 he did not even disdain the disgusting scraps that a miserable plebeian had gnawed the evening before1 and which a hunger-stricken slave would have hardly contested with him4,,xxix-#ba ,such were the masters of the world1 the proud ,csars6 before whom haughty ,rome bowed the head and trembled1 and from whom it basely implored a smile1 up to that day when some soldiers1 tired of their shameful obedience1 kicked the imperial corpse into the ,tiber1 after having mutilated it in presence of the populace1 who crowded joyously around the ,gemoni4,,xxix-#bb ,these terrific examples of insatiable voracity have become rare and obscure4 ,a few isolated facts may perhaps be met with at very distant periods1 which remind us of the polyphagic celebrities of ,greece and ,italy4 ,there are1 however1 two which would have merited the attention of ,vitellius himself4 ,the ingenuous ,fuller,,xxix-#bc speaks of a man1 named ,nicholas ,wood1 to whom the county of ,kent proudly claims the honour of having given birth1 who once eat a whole sheep at one meal4 ,one day three dozen of pigeons were placed before him1 of which he left only the bones4 ,another day1 being at ,lord ,wootton's1 and having a good appetite1 he devoured eighty-four rabbits and eighteen yards of black-pudding for his breakfast4 ,we leave to ,fuller the responsibility of the figures4 ,any how1 the brave ,nicholas ,wood must have been a vigorous trencher-man6 ,the second anecdote is from ,berchoux3-- ,marshal ,villars had a house-porter who was an enormous eater4 8,franz10 said he1 one day1 8tell me1 now1 how many loins you could eat80 8,ah6 my lord1 as for loins1 not many3 five or six at most40 8,and how many legs of mutton80 8,ah6 as for legs of mutton1 not many3 seven or eight perhaps40 8,and fatted pullets80 8,ah6 as for pullets1 my lord1 not many3 not more than a dozen40 8,and pigeons80 8,ah6 as for pigeons1 not many3 perhaps forty--fifty at most1 according to the appetite40 8,and larks80 8,ah6 as for that1 my lord--little larks--for ever1 my lord1 for ever60,,xxix-#bd ,a truce to gluttons4 ,let us speak of epicureans4 ,it is to them that gastronomic civilization owes the laws by which it is regulated2 they were the legislators of the table3 they introduced regularity and order at repasts4 ,the breakfast1 dinner1 collation1 and supper were created by those sages4 ,fashion has often modified the nomenclature1 but assuredly it will never be able to supersede it4 ,the ,greeks submitted to it for many years2,,xxix-#be and then1 that fickle people1 whom everything wearied1 declined the drudgery of masticating so frequently4 ,the lower orders and the army eat twice a day2,,xxix-#bf the fashionable people contented themselves with one repast1,,xxix-#bg which some had served at mid-day1,,xxix-#bh but the greater part just before sunset4,,xxix-#bi ,the party of resistance had1 as yet1 yielded only on one point--the collation2 and they continued bravely to breakfast1 dine1 and sup4,,xxix-#cj ,but the monophagists were not sparing in their jokes1 and the new fashion triumphed at last over the prescription of ancient usages4,,xxix-#ca ,pagan sobriety was doubtless far from suspecting that the ,book of ,ecclesiastes1 in accordance with it on this subject1 pronounces an anathema against the kingdom whose princes eat in the morning4,,xxix-#cb ,the ,greek manners were introduced in ,rome1 and persons of a certain rank1 who did not make a profession of gluttony1 gave themselves up to the pleasures of the table only once a day4,,xxix-#cc ,the tyranny of fashion was not1 however1 such that all persons thought themselves bound to obey it under pain of being shamed and ridiculed4 ,many unscrupulously transgressed its laws1 and more than one respectable ,greek of good family1 following the example of ,ulysses1 who prepared his breakfast at sun-rise1,,xxix-#cd had the acratism brought so soon as the crowing of the cock announced the return of day4,,xxix-#ce ,this frugal breakfast was composed of bread steeped in pure wine4,,xxix-#cf ,the adults restricted themselves to this slight repast1 but the children received more substantial nourishment4,,xxix-#cg ,the ,romans1 when they were not asleep1 breakfasted at three or four o'clock in the morning4,,xxix-#ch ,a little bread and cheese1,,xxix-#ci or dry fruits1,,xxix-#dj enabled them to wait for the solemn hour of the banquets4 ,it would appear that the ,jews dined at mid-day2,,xxix-#da it was the hour at which ,st4 ,peter was hungry4,,xxix-#db ,this repast took place also among the ,greeks about the middle of the day1,,xxix-#dc if we are to believe ,athenus4 ,however1 ,cicero relates that the philosopher ,plato appeared to be very much astonished1 when travelling in ,italy1 to see the inhabitants eat twice every day4,,xxix-#dd ,it will only be necessary to repeat that the supper alone formed the rule1 and that the breakfast and dinner were exceptions2 they depended entirely upon the casualties of will4 ,about mid-day,,xxix-#de the sober ,romans had a slight collation4,,xxix-#df ,seneca1 who never loses sight of himself in his fastidious treatises on wisdom1 informs us that a little bread and a few figs were all that his virtue required4,,xxix-#dg ,the senators1 the knights1 and the luxurious freed-men1 spared no expense either for dinner or supper4 ,the priests of ,mars1 of whom we have already spoken1 set them an example too seductive for them not to follow it4,,xxix-#dh ,it is to be remarked1 by the way1 that those worthy ministers of the god of war took this repast in the most secret part of their temple1 where they hardly allowed any one to come and interrupt them4 ,this gastronomic quietude was also very much the taste of a celebrated modern sailor1 the ,bailiff de ,suffrein4 ,he was at dinner in ,achem1 ,india1 when a deputation from the town was announced4 ,being a witty glutton1 he conceived the happy thought of sending word to the importunate troop that an article of the ,christian religion expressly prohibited every ,christian from occupying himself with anything besides eating1 that function being of the most serious importance4 ,this reply singularly edified the deputation1 who retired with respect1 admiring the extreme devotion of the ,french general4,,xxix-#di ,the collation--merenda--was little in use4 ,it took place about the end of the day1 before supper1 particularly in summer1 among the workmen and farm labourers4,,xxix-#ej ,we now come to the principal repast1 to that which threw such brilliancy over the latter centuries of ,rome1 when a culinary monomania1 a sort of gastronomic furor1 seemed to have seized the sovereign people1 who1 no longer great by their conquests1 betrayed a desire to become so by the number and audacity of their follies4 ,the ,hebrews supped at the ninth hour1 that is to say1 about three o'clock in the afternoon4,,xxix-#ea ,their custom of two repasts would be sufficiently proved by the fact that1 on fast days1 they took food only in the evening4,,xxix-#eb ,hence1 when they did not fast1 they also eat at another hour4 ,their ordinary aliment was very simple2 we shall have to speak of it hereafter4 ,in the primitive times1 kings prepared their own suppers4,,xxix-#ec ,beef1 mutton1 goat's flesh--such were the viands which then satisfied the daintiest palates4,,xxix-#ed ,baskets1 filled with pure wheaten bread1 were carried round to the guests1,,xxix-#ee and heaps of salt1 placed on the table1 gave proof of the hospitality of those simple and unsophisticated ages4,,xxix-#ef ,the fierce warriors of that warlike period never forgot to invoke the gods before they satisfied their appetites3 libations of wine rendered them favourable4,,xxix-#eg ,this pious duty once fulfilled1 they gave themselves up without restraint1 to the joys of good cheer2 and the sounds of the lyre and the buffooneries of mountebanks enlivened the banquet1,,xxix-#eh which again received fresh animation from the copious healths1 which persons the least versed in the forms of society never forgot4,,xxix-#ei ,it often happened that each one paid his share1 or brought provisions with him,,xxix-#fj to these joyous suppers1 of which the last rays of the setting sun always gave the periodical signal4,,xxix-#fa ,the uncertainty of these amicable meetings constituted their charm4 ,pic-nics1 as we see1 may be traced rather far back4 ,it was then that pleasure presided at those repasts2 dulness had its turn when luxury proscribed the supper in open air1 and in common1,,xxix-#fb after the manner of the ,jews1 who assembled in gardens1 or under trees1,,xxix-#fc and mingled the sweet harmony of music with the less delicate seductions of their banquets4,,xxix-#fd ,the breakfast has always taken place after rising2 dinner in the middle of the day2 the collation in the course of the afternoon2 and the supper in the evening4 ,in the #adth century1 people dined at ten o'clock in the morning4,,xxix-#fe ,one or two centuries later1 they dined at eleven o'clock4 ,in the #afth century1 and at the commencement of the #agth1 they dined at mid-day in the best houses4 ,louis ,,xiv41 himself1 always sat down to table at that hour4,,xxix-#ff ,this order was not modified until the #ahth century4 ,the ,sicilian cooks taught unheard-of refinements1 and were sought after with strange eagerness4,,xxix-#fg ,the chine of beef and haunch of mutton of the ,homeric epoch1 gave way to sumptuous banquets1 and a learned prodigality divided them into two or three acts1 or courses1,,xxix-#fh the order and luxurious majesty of which have been adopted in modern times4 ,it appears that three or four o'clock in the afternoon--the ninth hour--was the time invariably fixed for the supper of the ,romans4,,xxix-#fi ,like the ,greeks of yore1 they contented themselves at first with simple aliments1 and few in number2 subsequently1 three courses1 sometimes seven1,,xxix-#gj or even many more1 appeared to them to be hardly sufficient to satisfy the ardent voracity of their eyes1 and glut stomachs which odious precautions assimilated to the buckets of ,danaus's daughters4 ,these suppers1 the details of which always appear to us as bearing the impress of exaggeration1 notwithstanding the authority of the writers who furnish them1 were insufficient for certain prodigies of extravagance and furious gluttony1 who were served at midnight with a sort of 8wake0 7comissatio71,,xxix-#ga at which some of them gave proof of renewed greed and vigour4 ,vitellius was renowned for this kind of nocturnal debauchery2,,xxix-#gb others shone in the second rank1 but no one equalled that monarch-cook1 who made the empire a market1 and his shameful reign an unceasing banquet4 ,sensual enjoyments1 and every variety of barbarity that follows in their train1 were carried to the highest pitch4 ,there was something vast and monstrous1 of which nothing can give us an idea1 in the eclipse of mind1 and the depravity of their hearts4 ,all that force of intelligence and will which1 under the influence of ,christian spiritualism1 has revealed itself in modern times by so many chivalric inspirations1 so many moral institutions1 so many scientific discoveries1 so many industrial works1 then ingulfed in the senses1 was taxed solely for their gratification4 ,the sensual organization of man had acquired a development apparently as vast as that of intelligence1 because intelligence had become the handmaid of the senses3 hence those colossal proportions in the tastes1 the banquets1 the pleasures of the ancients1 when compared with ours1 which make us regard them as an extinct race of giants1 if we consider them in a sensual point of view2 and as a race of pygmies1 if we measure them by that power of ideas--that metaphysical and moral elevation--to which we have attained1 and which would make a child of our days the catechist of all the philosophers of antiquity4,,xxix-#gc ,down to the time of the conquest of the north of ,europe by the ,romans1 the food was very simple4 ,chopped herbs boiled in cauldrons1 served in wooden bowls on the hide of an ox1 spread on the ground1 in the midst of the forest2 balls composed of different kinds of flour1 and some strips of meat grilled on the embers--such was the food of our forefathers4,,xxix-#gd ,the table at which the ,anglo-,saxons took their repasts1 was covered with a very clean cloth4 ,each one received a horn cup1 which contained some kind of pottage1 or ale--the beverage for which they had a predilection4,,xxix-#ge ,the plates with which ,strutt has enriched his work give a satisfactory idea of the culinary intelligence of the nation4 ,they had spits1 knives1 plates1 and dishes in abundance4 ,england was marching with giant strides towards civilization4,,xxix-#gf ,the ,anglo-,saxons were particularly fond of boiled meat4 ,they cut up the animal they intended to cook1 put the pieces into a cauldron1 supported by a tripod1 and then lighted a fire on the ground4 ,they stirred their ragot incessantly with a long two-pronged fork1 which also served them to take out the meat when it was done4,,xxix-#gg ,all the deplorable excesses of the ,romans ought not to divert us from the fact1 that religion and sound policy seem to have consecrated repasts in common1 as one of the means best calculated to unite men more closely in the bonds of concord and friendship4,,xxix-#gh ,the ,scriptures furnish us with the first examples4 ,among the ,israelites1 the banquets which followed the sacrifices always took place in an assembly of relations1 neighbours1 or friends4,,xxix-#gi ,they eat together and in public on wedding days and solemn festivals4,,xxix-#hj ,the first ,christians promptly adopted this custom3 their love feasts--their agap--were served in the church1 after the ,communion4 ,the rich contributed to them abundantly2 the poor according to their means2 and the indigent who presented themselves with nothing in their hands1 were received and treated as brethren4,,xxix-#ha ,admirable association of penury and opulence1 which will never be replaced by the crude ,utopias of modern philanthropy6 ,as an act of justice to ,pagan legislators1 we are compelled to say that sometimes they had excellent views1 which go far to extenuate many of their aberrations4 ,the laws of ,minos prescribed to the ,cretans the annual levy of an impost1 the half of which was to be consecrated to the nourishment of the people4 ,no one could eat alone2 a certain number of families met together to take their repasts in common4,,xxix-#hb ,at ,lacedmon1 each one brought his share of the provisions necessary for the supper of the whole2,,xxix-#hc or he sent at the commencement of the month to the steward of the common halls1 wine1 cheese1 figs1 a measure of flour1 and a small sum of money to defray other expenses4,,xxix-#hd ,friendship1 sobriety1 and concord presided1 without exception1 at these meetings4 ,solon decreed that the ,athenians should assemble at the ,prytanea to eat together--sometimes one1 sometimes another--at the public expense4 ,each was invited in his turn1 and was expected to be there on the day named4,,xxix-#he ,the ,prytanea of ,athens1 ,megara1 ,olympia1 and ,cyzica1 contained a great number of porticoes1 under which were the tables at which the citizens sat4 ,the founder of ,rome also had the wisdom to ordain that1 in certain cases1 the inhabitants of the same ward should take their repasts in common1 as a sign of peace and good feeling2 nay1 more3 he decreed these suppers to be a part of the religious worship1 and they were called 8sacred banquets40,,xxix-#hf ,man abuses every thing4 ,the ,romans1 tired of eating merely to support life1 and disdaining1 little by little1 that austere sobriety which rendered them the masters of the world1 gave themselves up at last to unbridled luxury1 which appears to have redoubled during the war of ,italy1 and the civil wars of ,marius1 #hc ,b4,c4 ,cornelius ,sylla assumed the government1 and one of the terrible dictator's laws 7,lex ,cornelia7 renewed the ancient sumptuary regulations1 and fixed the prices of provisions4,,xxix-#hg ,julius ,csar also made great efforts to oppose the redoubtable invasions of ,roman gastronomy4 ,that prince stationed guards in the markets1 with orders to seize whatever they found there in contravention of the laws4 ,if1 through want of vigilance or fidelity1 they allowed anything to escape1 it was sure to be confiscated by more active agents1 on the very tables1 and in presence of the assembled guests4,,xxix-#hh ,resistance only increased the evil4 ,augustus thought to render the laws more efficacious by modifying them4 ,he permitted twelve persons to meet in honour of the twelve great gods1 and to spend eight shillings in ordinary repasts2 twelve shillings in the banquets of the calends1 the ides1 and the nones2 and even two pounds on wedding days and the day following4,,xxix-#hi ,tiberius granted still more4 ,under his reign1 a worthy citizen might spend for supper the sum of four pounds1 without having to fear that any one would find fault with it4,,xxix-#ij ,caligula1 ,claudius1 and ,nero--doubtless better judges of liberty than their predecessors--allowed every one the right to ruin himself as joyously as he pleased4 ,these good princes1 so far from repressing the luxury of the table1 strove to fortify it with the authority of their examples4,,xxix-#ia ,vitellius was by nature a non-reformer4 ,that voracious ,csar operated on a large scale2 he spent in four months1 for his suppers1 a little more than five millions sterling4,,xxix-#ib ,a trifle for a ,roman emperor6 ,did not the riches and labour of ,europe1 ,asia1 and ,africa1 form his civil list8 ,it is quite true that out of this modest revenue he had to find corn to stop the cravings of the proletarians1 and provide the games of the ,circus1 in order to amuse them in their dangerous idleness4 ,but ,vitellius1 who had no other passion than that of good cheer1 was royally equal to the task4 ,and these things cause no surprise when we remember that a ,roman general1 ,lucullus1 spent not less than #a1jjj to offer a little collation to two of his friends1 who refused him the time he required to treat them in a less unceremonious manner4 ,we find in the history of 8,jack of ,newbury0,,xxix-#ic instructions relative to the manner in which an ,english tradesman was to feed the persons in his employment in the #afth century1 which would certainly not be very pleasing now to that useful and laborious class3-- 8,you feed your folks with the best of beef and the finest of wheat1 which is an oversight2 neither do ,i hear of any knight in this country that doth it1 and1 to say the truth1 how were they able to bear that part which they do1 if they saved it not by some means8 ,come thither1 and ,i warrant you that you shall see brown bread upon the board2 if it be of wheat and rye mingled together1 it is a great matter1 and bread most highly commended1 but most commonly they eat barley bread1 or rye mingled with peasen or such-like coarse grain1 which is doubtless of small price1 and there is no other bread allowed except it be at their own board2 and in like manner for their meat1 it is well known that necks and points of beef is their ordinary fare2 which1 because it is commonly lean1 they seeth therewith now and then a piece of bacon or pork1 whereby they make their pottage fat1 and therewith drive out the rest with more content3 and this you must do4 ,and besides that1 the midriffs of oxen1 and the cheeks1 the sheep's heads1 and the gathers1 which you give away at your gate1 might serve them well enough2 this would be a great spareing to your meat1 and by this means you would save much money in the year1 whereby you might better maintain your ,french hood and silk gown40 ,the following is the style of living at the court of the ,dauphin of ,france in the #adth century3-- ,as in all well-regulated houses1 there were five repasts1 viz43 the morning 7except on fast days71 the breakfast2 the repast of ten o'clock1--7dix heures1 or the dcimheure2 by abbreviation dcimer1 and by a second abbreviation1 dner7--the dinner2 the second dinner1 the supper 7souper71 at which they eat no more soup than we do2 and lastly1 the night repast1 which they called a collation4 ,as an every-day fare1 the ,dauphin took for his dinner a rice pottage1 with leeks or cabbage1 a piece of beef1 another of salt pork1 a dish of six hens or twelve pullets1 divided in two1 a piece of roast pork1 cheese1 and fruit2 at supper1 a piece of roast beef1 a dish of brains1 neat's feet1 with vinegar1 cheese and fruit4 ,other days1 other dishes1 which were also pre-arranged with respect to kind and quantity4 ,the barons of the court had always the half of the quantity of the ,dauphin2 the knights1 the quarter2 the equerries and chaplains1 the eighth4 ,the distributions of wine and bread were made in the same proportions2 such a rank1 such weight1 such measure2 so that the young and delicate baroness had four pots of wine1 while the chorister and the chaplain had but one4,,xxix-#id ,we are indebted to the learned ,monteil for the following details relative to the public repasts of ,louis ,,xiv43--,,xxix-#ie ,the usher of the court1 at the hour named1 goes and knocks with his wand at the door of the hall of the body-guard1 and says3 8,gentlemen1 to the king's table60 a guard is dispatched1 who follow him to the goblet1 where one of the officers for the service of the table takes the nave4 ,the guard accompany him1 marching by his side1 sword in hand4 ,having arrived at the dining-room1 the officers spread the cloth1 try the napkins1 the fork1 the spoon1 the knife1 and the tooth-picks2 that is to say1 they touch them with a morsel of bread1 which they afterwards eat4 ,the usher returns again to the hall of the body-guard1 knocks at the door with his wand1 and cries3 8,gentlemen1 the king's meat60 ,four guards then follow him to the ambry1 where the equerry of the household and the chief steward1 or major-domo1 test the dishes1 by dipping a piece of bread1 which they eat4 ,after this1 the king's meat is carried1 the guards marching with their drawn swords on either side2 the chief steward1 preceded by the usher1 walking in front4 ,when he arrives near the table1 he approaches the nave1 and makes his obeisance to it2 and if the announcer1 or any other person desire also to do it1 he may4 ,the gentlemen-in-waiting place the dishes successively1 and the table being covered with them1 the king then enters4 ,it is to be remarked1 that it is always a prince or a great personage who presents the wet napkin to him with which to wash his hands1 whereas it is a simple valet who presents him with the dry napkin to wipe them4 ,the king takes his seat4 ,the equerry-carver carves the viands4 ,the king serves himself on a plate of gold4 ,when he asks for drink1 the cup-bearer calls aloud3 8,drink for the king60 ,at the same time he makes his obeisance to him1 goes to the buffet1 takes two crystal decanters1 one of which is filled with wine1 and the other with water1 returns to the king1 makes another obeisance1 removes the cover of the glass1 and presents it to the king1 who pours out wine and water according to his own pleasure4 ,during the dinner or supper of the king1 a group of lordly courtiers stand behind his chair1 and endeavour--though frequently in vain--to divert him1 and make him laugh2 and another group1 composed of ladies of the court1 stand behind the queen's chair1 who1 on their part1 try to amuse her1 and excite a smile4 ,whether the king eat in public or private1 the table is always served in the same manner3-- ,,at ,,dinner4 ,,two ,,large ,,terrines ,,of ,,soup4 ,,two ,,middling-,,sized ,,ones4 ,,two ,,small ,,ones ,,as ,,side ,,dishes4 ,,first ,,course4 ,,second ,,course4 ,,two ,,large ,,dishes4 ,,two ,,large ,,dishes ,,of ,,roast4 ,,two ,,middling-,,sized ,,ones4 ,,two ,,more1 ,,as ,,side ,,dishes4 ,,six ,,small ,,ones1 ,,as ,,side ,,dishes4 ,,at ,,supper4 ,the same number of dishes1 only there is but three-fourths of the quantity of soup4 ,the king eats only with the royal family and princes of the blood4 ,sometimes1 however1 the ,pope's nuncio has the honour of sitting at his table1 but always at the distance of four places4,,xxix-#if ,the luxury of the table was carried so far under ,edward ,,iii4 of ,england1 that that prince was constrained1 in the #agth year of his reign1 to impose sumptuary laws on his subjects1 forbidding the common people the indulgence of costly food and fine wines4,,xxix-#ig ,the necessity for this measure is demonstrated by the fact1 of which we read in the chronicles of ,stow1,,xxix-#ih that1 8at the marriage of ,lionel1 ,duke of ,clarence1 the third son of ,edward ,,iii41 with ,violentis1 the daughter of ,galeasius ,,ii41 ,duke of ,milan1 there was a rich feast1 in which above thirty courses were served at the table1 and the fragments that remained were more than sufficient to have served a thousand people40 ,the same chronicler also informs us that ,king ,richard ,,ii4 held the ,christmas feasts in the great hall of ,westminster in #acii1 8and such numbers came1 that every day there were slain twenty-six or twenty-eight oxen and three hundred sheep1 besides fowls without number40,,xxix-#ii ,richard ,nevil1 ,earl of ,warwick1 kept so good a table1 that his guests often eat six fat oxen for their breakfast4,,xxix-#ajj 8,in number of dishes and change of meate10 says ,holinshed1,,xxix-#aja 8the nobilitie of ,englande do most exceede1 sith there is no daye in maner that passeth over their heades1 wherein they have not onely beefe1 mutton1 veale1 lambe1 kidde1 pork1 conie1 capon1 pigge1 or so many of these as the season yieldeth1 but also some portion of the redde or fallow deere1 beside great varietie of fishe and wilde fowle1 and thereto sundrie other delicates1 wherein the sweet hand of the portingale is not wanting40 ,so early as the #afth century the inhabitants of the ,city of ,london were remarkable for the astonishing profusion of their repasts1 if we are to believe the poet ,massinger-- 8,men may talk of country ,christmas1 and court gluttony1 ,their thirty pounds for buttered eggs1 their pies of carps' tongues1 ,their pheasants drenched with ambergrise2 the carcases ,of three fat wethers bruised for gravy1 to ,make sauce for a single peacock3--yet their feasts ,were fasts1 compared with the ,city's40,,xxix-#ajb ,the description of one dish will enable us to judge of the others-- 8,three sucking pigs1 served up in a dish1 ,took from the sow as soon as she had farrowed1 ,a fortnight fed with dates and muskadine1,z ,that stood my master in twenty marks a piece2 ,besides the puddings in their bellies1 made ,of ,i know not what40,,xxix-#ajc ,hang thyself1 voluptuous ,apicius6 thou hast never dreamed of such delicate fare6 ,in the comedy of the 8,parson's ,wedding10,,xxix-#ajd the captain orders for his supper 8chines fry'd and the salmon calver'd1 a carp and black sauce1 red deer in the blood1 and an assembly of woodcocks and jacksnipes1 so fat you would think they had their winding-sheets on2 and upon these1 as their pages1 let me have wait your ,sussex wheatear1 with a feather in his cap2 over all which let our countryman1 general chine of beef1 command4 ,i hate your ,french pottage1 that looks as if the cook-maid had more hand in it than the cook40 ,the luxurious munificence of ,norman kings is almost as remarkable as that of the emperors of degenerate ,rome4 ,william the ,conqueror had himself crowned three times in the same year1 and the banquets he gave on those occasions were such that they impoverished the kingdom4,,xxix-#aje ,at the dinner given on the marriage of ,richard1 ,earl of ,cornwall1 and brother of ,henry ,,iii41 with the daughter of ,raymond1 ,earl of ,provence1 more than thirty thousand dishes were served on the table of the bride and bridegroom4,,xxix-#ajf ,in the year #abeb1 8,john ,mansel1 the king's counsellor1 gave a stately dinner to the kings of ,england and ,scotland and their queens2 there was also present ,edward1 the king's son1 the ,bishop of ,london1 and many earls1 barons1 knights1 and citizens2 in short1 so large was his company1 that his house at ,totehill could not contain them2 therefore he set up tents and pavilions for their reception2 seven hundred messes of meat was not sufficient to serve them for the first course40,,xxix-#ajg ,the following details1 which we borrow from ,monteil's excellent work1,,xxix-#ajh give us some idea of the style of living in the mansions of ,france during the #adth century3-- 8,whenever there is a dinner of ceremony1 the clerks of the church are requested to bring holy water4 ,the repast is commenced and concluded with fruit4 ,the bread eaten is in loaves of nine ounces only4 ,every bason of meat is surrounded with sage1 lavender1 or other aromatic herbs2 and on ,sunday1 or any holiday1 negus is given4 ,the sideboard1 or buffet1 is always in the middle of the room1 covered with jugs and large drinking cups of gold and silver4 8,the cellars1 store-rooms1 kneading troughs1 dairies1 and fruit-stores1 are filled and emptied unceasingly--take who will1 when he will1 and as much as he will4 ,provisions of every kind are heaped up with a profusion that announces magnificence allied with riches4 8,the great number of nobles1 knights1 huntsmen1 falconers1 pages1 kitchen servants1 butlers1 bakers1 the numerous valets1 workmen1 gardeners1 harbingers1 door-keepers1 porters1 and guards are not equal to the task of consuming so much4 ,from all sides come relations1 allies1 neighbours1 friends1 pilgrims1 and travellers1 all of whom remain or depart at will1 being feasted as if it were the morrow of a wedding1 or a patronal festivity4 8,the kitchen chimney-places are not less than twelve feet in width4 ,one man would not have strength sufficient to use the tongs or the shovels4 ,the andirons do not weigh less than a hundred pounds1 the trivets forty pounds2 copper saucepans of thirty pounds are common1 and so are spits of eleven and twelve pounds4 ,one roast is composed of one1 two1 or three calves1 two1 three1 or four sheep1 besides game1 venison1 and poultry4 ,the boiling of the saucepans1 the exhalations from the grease1 render the atmosphere so fat1 so thick1 that it is only necessary to breathe in it to feed4 ,a person would not dare enter one of those kitchens on the eve of a feast day1 for fear1 as it were1 of breaking his fast4 8,in the #afth century persons washed their hands at the commencement of a repast1 and a second time when it was concluded4 ,when the master of the house was particular on the point of civility1 he had a bason sent round at this second ablution1 filled with perfumed water4,,xxix-#aji 8,when the person seated in the chief place was a guest of distinction1 politeness made it indispensable to present him with water to rinse his mouth4,,xxix-#aaj 8,one of the most difficult points of ,french civility in the #afth century was to drink to a person's health1 or return the compliment in a proper manner4,,xxix-#aaa ,a guest at one end of the table held up his glass1 and called out3 #8,mr4 ,such-a-one1 to your health6' ,he replied3 #8,i love it from you6',,xxix-#aab ,during the whole of the repast1 healths were bandied to and fro1 in every sense4 ,at the end they touched glasses together at a central point1 which created a very singular kind of clash1 and1 at the same time1 the arms underneath formed a sort of fasces of sleeves and cuffs40,,xxix-#aac ,,xxx4 ,,variety ,,of ,,repasts4 ,the fertile country inhabited by the ,jewish people furnished them with a very great variety of excellent provisions4 ,those of which they made the greatest consumption1 and which we find generally mentioned in the ,scriptures1 are bread1 flour1 barley1 beans1 lentils1 wine1 raisins1 figs1 honey1 butter1 oil1 sheep1 oxen1 fatted calves1 c4,,xxx-#a ,the fat of animals offered in sacrifice was reserved for the ,lord2,,xxx-#b but1 with this exception1 the ,hebrews could freely make use of it4 ,they esteemed it much1 and when they wished to speak of a rich banquet1 they called it 8a banquet of fat animals40,,xxx-#c 8,he that loveth wine and oil10,r says ,solomon1 8shall not be rich40,,xxx-#d ,the extreme simplicity of the greater part of the ,biblical repasts ought not to induce us to suppose that the ,jews were entire strangers to the inspirations of good cheer4 8,solomon's provisions for one day were thirty measures of fine flour1 and three score measures of meal1 ten fat oxen1 and twenty oxen out of the pastures1 and an hundred sheep1 besides harts1 and roebucks1 and fallow-deer1 and fatted fowl40,,xxx-#e ,that primitive nation also knew different kinds of banquets1 which1 conformably with their nave manners1 were associated with the celebration of a religious solemnity1 a sad or a joyful event1 a family festivity or mourning1 a victory or a public calamity4,,xxx-#f ,the ,greeks and ,romans1 skilful masters in the art of good living1 were early on the alert to assure the collection of all things necessary for the support of life4 8,take care10 said ,aurelian to ,flavius1 8take care1 above all things1 that the markets of ,rome be well supplied3 nothing more gay or more peaceful than the people1 when they are well fed40,,xxx-#g ,this remark is much more profound than it at first appears4 ,at ,athens1 special officers visited the markets1 and only permitted each citizen to purchase and keep in his own house the quantity of provisions necessary for one year4,,xxx-#h ,the ediles of ,rome performed nearly similar functions4,,xxx-#i ,the prefect of the town was invested with the power of making regulations for the markets1,,xxx-#aj and the prefect of provisions had the inspection of the sale of bread1 meat1 wine1 fish1 and all other kinds of aliment required either for the table of the rich or poor plebeian4,,xxx-#aa ,during a long time1 in ,greece and ,italy1 the only charm of repasts was1 that they furnished an opportunity for the exercise of those duties of kind hospitality1 which ,apollodorus has described in the following ingenuous style3 8,as soon as a friend10 says he1 8steps on the threshold of his host1 the porter receives him with a smiling face2 the dog of the house comes immediately to caress him1 amicably wagging his tail2 then some one runs and presents him a seat without being told40,,xxx-#ab ,this last trait is charming4 ,but afterwards1 they thought much more of honouring the god of good cheer than ,jupiter ,hospes1 and joyous ,comus became everywhere the fashionable divinity4 ,one of the ancients describes him in the following manner3 8,he is seen at the door of an apartment communicating with the banqueting hall2 his smiling face is fresh1 plump1 and ruddy2 his head is crowned with roses1 and he sleeps standing2 his left hand rests on a thyrsus1 but sleep makes him loose his hold2 he staggers1 and the torch will soon fall from his grasp40,,xxx-#ac ,the ,greeks were fervent in their worship of this god1 at an epoch when ,rome still prided herself on her transcendant sobriety4 ,conon gave a banquet to all the ,athenians after the battle of ,cnidos1 about four centuries before the ,christian era2 and his celebrated contemporary1 the handsome ,alcibiades1 conqueror in the ,olympic games1 magnificently regaled the numerous spectators who had just applauded his triumph4,,xxx-#ad ,the pagan temples themselves often rung with the sound of the music1 the chaunts1 and the dances which always accompanied the religious banquets4 ,these feasts in honour of the immortals must have been rather unedifying to the truly faithful1 for gaiety generally degenerated into extreme licentiousness4,,xxx-#ae ,the conquest of ,asia was fatal to the ,romans4 ,their savage rudeness yielded to the effeminate manners of the vanquished2 and henceforth1 the epicureans of ,italy studied but one thing--gastronomic delectation2 had but one worship--that of the goddess ,victua1,,xxx-#af protectress of food1 and sovereign of the table4 ,luxury made appalling progress4 ,nearly a century ,b4,c41 the ,romans did not blush to give #ej denarii 7#a #afs47 for a young fatted peacock2 #c denarii at least 7more than #bs47 for a thrush2,,xxx-#ag and1 a century later1 #d1jjj sesterces 7#cf7 were given for a couple of fine young pigeons4,,xxx-#ah ,worse followed6 ,seneca describes in few words the luxury of the table among the voluptuous ,romans3--8,behold10 says he1 8,nomentanus and ,apicius1 those happy conquerors of all that is delectable on earth or in the sea4 ,behold them at table1 stretched on their couches1 and contemplating innumerable viands4 ,harmonious songs flatter their ears1 a variety of pleasing objects occupy their eyes1 and the most exquisite savours captivate their insatiable palates40,,xxx-#ai ,the genius of gluttony multiplied the banquets by prescribing luxurious gastronomic assemblages1 sometimes in honour of the gods1 and often for the gratification of simple mortals themselves4 ,each year1 at the ides of ,november1 a repast was offered to ,jupiter in the ,capitol 7cna ,capitolina74 ,the statue of the god was present at the banquet1 reclining on a magnificent couch1 with ,juno and ,minerva seated on either side4 ,these divinities were splendidly served1 and1 as they touched nothing1 in the middle of the night the seven epulary priests joyously eat the supper of the three immortals4,,xxx-#bj ,the cereal banquet 7cna ,cerealis7 was equally splendid1 and ,ceres maintained the same frugality4,,xxx-#ba ,a sterile reminiscence of the equality which reigned among men in the golden age1 placed the slaves at table by the side of their masters1 during the celebration of the ,saturnalia 7cna ,saturnalis74,,xxx-#bb ,this usage was common to the ,greeks and ,romans4,,xxx-#bc ,the ninth day of the ,august calends1 and the thirteenth day of the ,november calends1 a gastronomic solemnity--a monstrous gala--brought together the ,roman pontiffs to celebrate the day of their inauguration 7cna pontificalis74 ,this banquet was worthy of the proverbial delicacy of those sacred stomachs4,,xxx-#bd ,the augurs treated themselves magnificently in their turn 7cna auguralis71 when they entered on their functions4 ,the pagan priests of ,rome vied one with another in a noble emulation of exquisite refinement and ruinous viands2,,xxx-#be but it is said that the ministers of ,mars1 who had the reputation of being arch-epicureans 7cna saliaris71 always won the palm in this struggle of magnificence and voluptuousness4,,xxx-#bf ,the day the ,emperor took the title of ,augustus1 he gave a supper 7cna imperatoria7 to the senators and magistrates4 ,the tributes of a year were sometimes hardly sufficient to indemnify the grand master of these imperial orgies4,,xxx-#bg ,the triumphal banquets 7cna triumphalis7 were less elegant1 no doubt1 but they cost the victor who invited the people immense sums4,,xxx-#bh ,the guests crowded into the vast inclosure of the temple of ,jupiter ,capitolinus1,,xxx-#bi or the temple of ,hercules4,,xxx-#cj ,they sat down to table to celebrate the anniversary of a birth-day 7cna natalitia71,,xxx-#ca the happy wedding-day 7cna nuptialis71,,xxx-#cb the arrival of a friend 7cna adventitia71,,xxx-#cc the sad day of his departure 7cna viatica74,,xxx-#cd ,the melancholy ceremony of interment was followed by a supper 7cna funebris71 at which the guests were the relations and friends of the deceased4,,xxx-#ce ,they drank to his manes1 and1 by degrees1 the wine not only stifled their laments but called forth joyous smiles4 ,the ,romans have bequeathed to certain modern nations more than the remembrance of their funeral repasts4 ,in the palmy days of ,athens1 the ,greeks evinced more of the epicurean than the glutton--a fact which may be inferred from the description of the supper of ,dinias4,,xxx-#cf ,the most magnificent of their repasts was1 perhaps1 that which ,alexander the ,great had served to ten thousand guests1 who received1 each one1 a present of a golden patera4,,xxx-#cg ,in ,greece1 as in ,rome1 the greater part of the events of life occasioned the joyous meeting of relations and friends4 ,at the birth of a child1,,xxx-#ch a banquet was given in his honour2 he was named on the tenth day1 and the ceremony terminated with a banquet1,,xxx-#ci in which they offered the guests cooked ,cherso cheese1 cabbage boiled in oil1 pigeons1 thrushes1 fish1 and brimming cups of excellent wine4,,xxx-#dj ,the teething repast took place when the child had attained his seventh month1 and the weaning supper when he began to eat4,,xxx-#da ,these family feasts1 more or less sumptuous according to the fortune and rank of the individuals who gave them1 were generally signalized by a custom which ridiculous and egotistical vanity could alone authorise and maintain4 ,on the banquet day care was taken to throw the feathers of the poultry before the door of the house1 in order to excite the fruitless greed of the poor wretches1 who1 as they passed1,,xxx-#db prayed heartily that the infernal divinities might take the proud amphitryon1 his guests1 and even the meanest of his servants4 99 99 99 99 99 ,in ,france1 about #acej1 the setier 7about twelve ,english bushels7 of--,,xxx-#dc s4 d4 ,wheat was worth #j #j #g ,rye #j #j #c ,oats #j #j #b ,beans #j #j #e ,peas #j #j #f ,a ,hogshead of ,wine #j #d #g ,a ,load of ,hay #j #a #aj ,an ,ox #j #f #aj ,a ,horse #j #aa #f ,a ,calf #j #a #b ,a ,sheep #j #j #d ,a ,fat ,pig #j #b #j ,a ,gosling #j #j #a ,a ,hen #j #j #j #ajj ,eggs #j #j #a #alb of ,butter #j #j #c #alb of ,honey #j #j #aj #alb of ,wax #j #a #aj ,prices of a few articles in ,france during the #aeth century3,,xxx-#dd s4 d4 #alb of ,bread #j #j #j #a ,pint of ,wine #j #j #j #a ,pint of ,mustard #j #j #j #a ,bushel of ,salt #j #j #b #alb of ,pepper #j #j #b #alb of ,cinnamon #j #a #b #alb of ,bacon #j #j #j ,a ,pair of ,pigeons #j #j #a ,a ,pair of ,partridges #j #j #b ,a ,cart-load of ,wood 7une voie7 #j #j #h ,a ,sack of ,charcoal #j #j #a #alb of ,candles #j #j #j ,in ,england1 under the reign of ,edward ,,iii41 a royal proclamation fixed the price of the following articles3--,,xxx-#de s4 d4 ,a ,swan #j #j #d ,a ,porcelle #j #j #h ,an ,ewe #j #j #f ,a ,capon #j #j #f ,a ,hen #j #j #d ,a ,pullet #j #j #b ,a ,poucyn #j #j #b ,a ,coney #j #j #d ,a ,teal #j #j #b ,a ,river ,mallard #j #j #e ,a ,snipe #j #j #a ,a ,woodcock #j #j #c ,a ,partridge #j #j #e ,a ,plover #j #j #c ,a ,pheasant #j #a #d ,twelve ,eggs #j #j #a ,twelve ,small ,birds #j #j #a ,the funeral repast of ,sir ,john ,redstone1 ,mayor of ,london1 who died in #aecl1 occasioned the following expenses3-- s4 d4 ,shipe ,brede #j #g #e #glbs of ,sugar for the same #j #d #a ,two unces of ,saffrun #j #b #j ,two unces of ,clovys and ,mace #j #a #h ,seven unces of ,pepper #j #j #aj ,sixty ,eggs #j #j #g ,seven dysshes of ,butter1 at #d;d4 the gallone #j #c #c ,manchet ,brede #j #a #j #djj of ,peers #j #b #d #alb of ,bysketts #j #j #h ,,to ,,the ,,pyke-,,monger4 ,sixteen ,pikes1 at #as4 #d;d4 a piece #a #a #d ,eight roundes of ,sturgeon #a #b #j ,,to ,,the ,,pulter4 ,six roundes of ,brawne #j #aa #h ,ten ,swannes1 at #fs4 a piece #c #j #j ,two dozen of ,quayles #j #aj #j ,three dozen of ,rabetts #j #f #f ,twenty-two ,capons #j #ab #aj ,nine dozen of ,pygeons1 at #aj;d4 per dozen #j #g #f ,four ,gese #j #b #h #cjj ,eggs #j #c #i ,,to ,,the ,,bowcher4 ,a ,surloyne of ,beffe #j #b #d ,half a ,vele 7,calf7 #j #b #h ,four ,marybones #j #j #h ,,to ,,the ,,mylke-,,wyffe4 ,two ,gallones and ,six ,dishes of ,butter #j #d #b ,eight ,gallones of ,creme #j #d #j ,twelve ,gallones of ,curdde #j #a #f ,,to ,,the ,,brewer4 ,three ,barrelles of ,ale #j #aa #j ,a ,kylderkyn of ,bere #j #a #j ,for ,double ,bere to the ,tabull #j #j #d ,yest #j #j #d ,,to ,,the ,,vyntener4 ,thirty two ,gallones of ,redde and ,clarett ,wyne1 at #aj;d4 per gallon #a #f #h ,three ,gallones of ,mackeray #j #j #d ,a ,rundlett of ,muskadine #j #f #j #alb of ,bread #j #j #j ,,the ,,grocer4 s4 d4 ,six unces of ,pepper #j #j #i ,four unces of ,clovys and ,mace #j #b #d ,two unces of ,saffrone #j #a #aj #ahlb of ,pruenes #j #c #j #hlb of ,corans #j #a #h #flb of ,dates #j #b #j #aalb of ,byskettes #j #j #aj #ablb of ,sugar #j #g #j ,five unces of ,cynimion #j #a #c ,four unces of ,gynger #j #j #f ,,the ,,baker4 ,four busshelles of ,chete1 at #as4 #aj;d4 the busshelle #j #g #d ,for ,hot ,brede #j #d #j ,for ,fyne ,flour #j #j #aa ,for ,basterde ,flour #j #a #aj ,,the ,,chaundeler4 ,a ,peck and a-half of ,salt #j #j #f ,for ,candelles #j #j #d ,for ,vennyger #j #j #d ,for ,vergeys #j #j #f ,for ,pack-threade and ,mustarde #j #j #b ,for ,cappys 7,capers7 #j #j #b ,for ,lop of ,pottes #j #j #h ,for ,hyer of ,pottes #j #j #d ,,the ,,cooke4 ,for hys labor and companye for eighteen messes of meat #j #ae #j ,for ,yerbys #j #j #h ,a ,quarter of a ,hundred of ,fagottes #j #a #b ,for ,coles #j #a #f ,paide the turners of broches and skulyons1 four of them #j #a #d ,the following is a correct copy of a monster bill of fare1 from a paper found in the ,tower of ,london3--,s #cjj ,quarters of ,wheat4 #cjj ,tuns of ,ale4 #ajd ,tuns of ,wine4 ,one ,pipe of ,spiced ,wine4 #aj ,fat ,oxen4 #f ,wild ,bulls4 #cjj ,pigs4 #ajjd ,wethers4 #cjj ,hogs4 #cjjj ,calves4 #cjj ,capons4 #ajj ,peacocks4 #bjj ,cranes4 #bjj ,kids4 #bjjj ,chickens4 #djjj ,pigeons4 #djjj ,rabbits4 #djjj ,ducks4 #bjd ,bitterns4 #djj ,hernsies4 #bjj ,pheasants4 #ejj ,partridges4 #ejjj ,woodcocks4 #djj ,plovers4 #ajj ,curlews4 #ajj ,quails4 #ajjj ,eggets4 #bjj ,rees4 #djjj ,bucks1 ,does1 and ,roebucks4 #aee ,hot ,venison ,pasties4 #djjj ,cold ,venison ,pasties4 #ajjj ,dishes of ,jellies4 #bjjj ,hot ,custards4 #djjj ,cold ,custards4 #djj ,tarts4 #cjj ,pikes4 #cjj ,breams4 #h ,seals1 and #d ,porpoises4 ,at the feast1 the ,earl of ,warwick was steward2 the ,earl of ,bedford1 treasurer2 the ,lord ,hastings1 comptroller1 with many noble officers2 servitors1 #ajjj2 cooks1 #fb2 kitcheners and scullions1 #eae4 ,in ,france 7#adth and #aeth centuries7 the repasts were commonly divided into five parts1 called courses1 or dishes4,,xxx-#dg ,the first course was composed of cherries1 tender fruits1 citrons1 and salads4,,xxx-#dh ,milk-porridge1 puddings1 and pottages followed2 it was the second course4,,xxx-#di ,the third consisted of roast1 with various sauces4,,xxx-#ej ,the second roast1 or fourth course1,,xxx-#ea presented the guests with venison and game4 ,the fifth course took the name of fruit-course4 ,at this they served tarts made with all sorts of herbs1 flowers1 grains1 vegetables1 and fruit4,,xxx-#eb ,illustration3 ,pl4 #bh4 ,,xxxi4 ,,the ,,dining-,,room4 ,the cnaculum 7dining-room71 properly so called1 was the place in the upper part of the house where they eat4,,xxxi-#a ,it was reached by a staircase1,,xxxi-#b and thither persons repaired during the summer1 particularly in the country4 ,the ,roman villas terminated by a platform1 on which the ,romans often collected at meal-time2 the air was not so hot1 and the panorama of the neighbouring country-seats was presented without obstruction1 to the gaze of the guests4,,xxxi-#c ,the dining-room was commonly decorated with fasces of arms and trophies1,,xxxi-#d which served as a momento of the warlike virtues of the ancestors of the master of the house4 ,enchanting frescoes stood out marvellously from the obscure shading of the wall1 round which were twined fresh garlands of flowers2 and a mosaic floor--master-piece of art and patience--harmonised with the fascinating landscape of the ceiling1 the site of which varied with every course4,,xxxi-#e ,the ,emperor ,nero1 who carried this taste for the beautiful rather too far1 devised a sort of vault1 in the most elegant style1 and entirely composed of movable leaves of ivory1 which exhaled sweet ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xxv4 ,no4 #a4 ,large vase1 or cratre2 a vessel which was placed in the banqueting-room1 and also on the empty space left on the tables4 ,in it was put wine and water1 which was taken out with a simpulum1 a kind of small cup1 fixed to a very long handle1 bent at the extremity as a hook1 to fill the cups of the guests4 ,when the cratres were not fixed on tripods 7engytheca1 or angotheca71 which supported them1 they only differed from the cups by their size4 ,some were of such dimensions that ,herodotus speaks of two cratres1 one containing #cjj amphor1 and the other #fjj2 there vases commonly exceeded ten-fold the size of the cups1 to which they were very similar in shape and handles4 ,no4 #b4 ,a glass vase1 with two handles1 for iced water4 ,no4 #c4 ,glass bottle1 with its cup1 placed on the table for each guest4 perfumes1 and whence flowers fell on the guests4 ,in another of his dining-rooms admiration was excited by a magnificent dome1 the rotary movement of which imitated1 day and night1 the course of the celestial bodies4,,xxxi-#f ,these prodigies of ancient mechanism adorned the palace that the prodigal ,csar called 8the gilded house40,,xxxi-#g ,the colossal statue of that prince rose in the middle of the hall3 it was #abj feet high6,,xxxi-#h ,studious people1 or those who wished to appear so1 covered some part of the dining-room with books2 for it was a custom introduced into ,rome to have recitations or readings during the repast4,,xxxi-#i ,atticus had always a reader2,,xxxi-#aj and ,juvenal promises the friend he invites to supper that he shall hear some fragments from ,virgil and ,homer4,,xxxi-#aa ,the ,greeks yielded willingly to this intellectual pastime at the commencement of the banquet1 whilst incense and other perfumes filled the room with a light vapour4,,xxxi-#ab ,opposite the entrance-door stood a buffet1 sometimes of iron1 but more generally among the ,greeks of sculptured wood1 bronze1 or silver1 on which were represented the heads of oxen or satyrs4,,xxxi-#ac ,this piece of furniture was placed under the protection of ,mercury1 and a curtain commonly veiled the front of it4 ,it served for the display of precious plate--vases of silver1 silver-gilt1 and gold1 enriched with magnificent precious stones4,,xxxi-#ad ,the buffet of the ,romans1--a sort of sideboard1 of rare workmanship1--was appropriated to the same use4,,xxxi-#ae ,sometimes a single foot supported a white marble table1 surrounded with a border of vert-antique1 and plates and dishes were arranged on two elegant shelves placed above4,,xxxi-#af ,again1 the artist frequently conceived the idea of giving a whimsical form to the buffet1 which enhanced its price--it was a ship laden with the vases necessary for the banquet2 four enormous amphor occupied the deck1 on the two sides of the mast2 towards the prow was a candelabrum1 and at the stern was displayed a large-bellied cantharus1 or vase1 with mobile handles2,,xxxi-#ag the main-topmast ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xxvi4 ,no4 #a4 ,a glass vase1 with two handles4 ,no4 #b4 ,a glass vase1 with three handles4 ,no4 #c4 ,etruscan vase1 with three handles1 terra cotta4 ,no4 #d4 ,a large silver vase1 to hold wine and water2 when placed on the table1 the liquor was taken out with simpulum1 to fill the drinking cups4 ,no4 #e4 ,a large-bellied cantharus--8,herculaneum40 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #bj4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,pl4 #ba4 was replaced by a large urn1 and two cups of ,bacchus were gracefully balanced at either extremity of the yard1,,xxxi-#ah along which were suspended craters1 or vases1 used in drinking wine4,,xxxi-#ai ,the buffet of the ,greeks and ,romans survived the ruins of those two celebrated nations2 we find it again in the middle ages1 and even in more modern times4 ,then also1 rich people loved to display their plate on a very apparent piece of furniture1 which1 being dressed1 took the name of 8dresser40 ,monstrelet1 describing the magnificence of the ,duke of ,burgundy during his sojourn in ,paris1 relates3 8that in the room of his mansion in which he eat was a square dresser 7dressoir7 with shelves1 which dresser was covered and loaded with very rich gold and silver plate40,,xxxi-#bj ,sovereigns who affected great munificence had buffets of metal2 there were three--one for silver1 one for silver-gilt1 and one for gold4 ,at the banquet which the ,king of ,france1 ,charles ,v41 gave to the ,emperor ,charles ,,iv41 his uncle1 each of the three buffets was of the same metal as the plate it supported4,,xxxi-#ba ,after the birth of a child1 ladies1 when they received visits1 had a dresser placed in their room4 ,those of countesses and great ladies had three shelves2 those of the wives of the younger sons of baronets had two2 women well-connected but not titled could have no shelf4 ,those who enjoyed the honours of the court placed by the side of the buffet a little table1 covered with a white cloth1 destined for the hippocrass and spiced wine they offered their visitors1,,xxxi-#bb and which they drank in hanaps1 or a kind of chalice of earthenware1 gold1 or silver4 ,those of crystal were much esteemed4 ,charles the ,bald gave to the ,abbey of ,st4 ,denis a hanap1 said to have belonged to ,solomon4 8,it was of pure gold1 fine emeralds1 fine garnets1 and the work so marvellous that in all the kingdoms of the world never was there anything so perfect40,,xxxi-#bc ,the great lords also indulged in metal dressers1,,xxxi-#bd to which the #afth century gave the name of 8buffets40 ,under ,henry ,,ii4 of ,france the court called them crdence1 from an ,italian word bearing the same meaning1,,xxxi-#be and which they have retained4 ,the ,hebrews probably knew nothing of chimneys4 ,when ,king ,jehoiakim burned the book which ,jeremiah had written1 8he sat in the winter-house in the ninth month3 and there was a fire on the hearth burning before him40,,xxxi-#bf ,when1 among the ,greeks or ,romans1 they wanted to warm the dining-room1 they also had recourse to braziers or bronze furnaces of the dimension of a middling-sized table1 resting on lion's claws4 ,foliage in copper1 bronze1 and silver1 was artistically incrusted round the edge4 ,the bottom was a very thick iron grating4 ,above and beneath1 brick-work prevented the coal from touching the upper part1 or escaping through the interstices4,,xxxi-#bg ,they also made use of two kinds of stoves to warm the dining-room--the one was concealed under ground in the massive wall1 and little pipes extended from its orifice to the apartment2 the other1 portative and light1 disappeared whenever it was judged expedient4,,xxxi-#bh ,among the pagans1 the dining-room was lighted by torches made of a resinous wood1,,xxxi-#bi or tallow candles4,,xxxi-#cj ,the rich had lamps1 candelabra1,,xxxi-#ca or magnificent lustres suspended from the ceiling4,,xxxi-#cb ,they even knew the luxury of wax candles4,,xxxi-#cc ,in the middle ages1 the sovereigns and the great lords had1 in the middle of their dining-rooms1 fountains playing1 which poured fourth wine1 hippocrass1 and other liquors4 ,some gave rose-water and divers odoriferous liquids to perfume the banqueting-hall4 ,rubruquis found in ,tartary a ,parisian goldsmith1 ,guillaume ,boucher1 who had settled under the sway of the ,khan1 and had made him one of those fountains4 ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xxvi ,a4 ,,the ,,duke ,,of ,,brunswick',s ,,vase4--,this is one of the finest monuments we have yet seen1 which has reference to the mysteries and sacrifices of ,ceres and ,bacchus4 ,it is a precious vase1 made of one single piece of onyx1 from the cabinet of the ,duke of ,brunswick1 and of the size represented in the engraving4 ,it was published1 and learnedly explained1 in #afhb1 by ,jean ,henry ,eggeling1 and printed in the same year4 ,this vase is of a singular form2 has one handle1 and on the other side a spout1 which begins at the bottom1 and finishes by a bend towards the top1 to pour out the liquor4 ,eggeling believes that this vase is of the number of those the ancients called guttus1 because the liquor came out drop by drop3 he comes to that conclusion from a passage of ,varro--8,quo vinum dabant1 ut minutatim funderent1 a guttis guttum appellarunt40 ,the vase is divided in three parts by two bands of gold1 by which it is girdled3 that of the middle1 which forms the largest space1 contains also a larger number of figures4 ,the third diminishes towards the foot1 and has figures also1 all of which represent the mysteries and sacrifices of ,ceres and ,bacchus4 ,the reader will probably feel interested how this vase came into the possession of the ,duke of ,brunswick4 ,it was in the cabinet of the ,duke of ,mantua4 ,when that city was taken and sacked1 in #afbi1 a soldier1 who had possession of the vase1 offered it to ,francis ,albert1 ,duke of ,lower ,saxony1 his commander1 who gave him a hundred ducats as a reward4 ,this prince left it by will to the ,princess ,christina ,marguerite of ,mecklenburg1 his wife1 who left it in the same way to her sister1 the ,princess ,sophia1 ,duchess of ,brunswick4 ,she also gave it by will to her son1 ,ferdinand ,albert1 ,duke of ,brunswick4 ,the lapidaries thought so much of it1 that they offered1 in turn1 from sixty to ninety thousand imperials4 ,in the inventory of the ,princess ,sophia it was valued at one hundred and fifty thousand imperials4,t ,illustration3 ,,duke ,,of ,,brunswick',s ,,vase4 ,the municipal bodies adopted them4 ,at the entrance of ,charles ,,vii4 into ,paris1 one of this kind was seen in the ,rue ,st4 ,denis3--8,one of the tubes spouted milk1 another vermilion-coloured wine1 another white wine1 and another pure water2 and persons stood all round with silver cups to give drink to the passers-by40 ,in the #agth century playing fountains were still used at repasts4,,xxxi-#cd ,,xxxii4 ,,the ,,table4 ,it is pretended1 says ,athenus1 that in the ,homeric times each guest had a table to himself1,,xxxii-#a on which he was served with 8a saddle-back of beef1 or a whole sheep or goat40 ,it was the custom among the heroes1 all men of high lineage1 and tolerably aristocratic in their tastes4 ,the burghers of those warlike times and the villeins of the epoch eat their dinner1 without form or ceremony1 on a heap of grass1 which also served them as a seat or couch4,,xxxii-#b ,wooden tables--at first very clumsy ones1 no doubt--only came into use when the development of human industry had enabled men to understand that they might be preferable to a truss of hay4,,xxxii-#c ,a passage in ,homer would seem to show that they were very much like ours4,,xxxii-#d ,perhaps the circular form was generally preferred4,,xxxii-#e ,luxury soon called for the most precious materials1 and the ,greeks had1 at a very early period1 tables of bronze1,,xxxii-#f and even of fine silver4,,xxxii-#g ,the isle of ,rhenea produced magnificent ones1,,xxxii-#h and an expensive fashion caused those luxurious pieces of furniture to be prized when they presented delicate incrustations of silver1 bronze1 or ivory1 and rested on lions' claws or leopards' feet4,,xxxii-#i ,cneus ,manlius introduced these rarities into ,rome after the conquest of ,asia4,,xxxii-#aj ,he was also the originator of tables veneered with plates of gold1,,xxxii-#aa which ere long adorned the dining-rooms of princes and senators1 and the excessive price of which was only surpassed by that of tables made of precious woods from distant countries4,,xxxii-#ab ,the maple1 the whitten1 and a species of ,african lemon-tree occupied the first rank1,,xxxii-#ac and the prodigious skill of the workmen gave them a value superior to gold and silver4,,xxxii-#ad ,the most beautiful of these tables were spotted or veined to imitate the tiger's or panther's skin2 but they acquired an exorbitant claim upon the admiration of connoisseurs when they bore the marvellous design of a peacock's tail4 ,this fantastic play of nature commanded a boundless price4,,xxxii-#ae ,an artist of unrivalled talent1 ,carvilius ,pollio1 was the first1 according to ,pliny1,,xxxii-#af who enriched these magnificent woods with buhl-work of ivory and shell in the acme of perfection4,,xxxii-#ag ,under the reign of ,nero1 the ,romans dyed this shell1 and thought to increase its primitive value by giving it the tints and accidental shades of the cedar1 the maple1 and the lemon tree4,,xxxii-#ah ,these splendid pieces of furniture were at first square2,,xxxii-#ai then round2,,xxxii-#bj then in the form of a half-circle or half-moon1 and this horseshoe-shaped table they called a sigma1 from the name of that ,greek letter1 which resembled our ,c4,,xxxii-#ba ,the guests whom any person wished to honour most were placed at the extremities of this hemicycle1,,xxxii-#bb overlaid with magnificent covers1 which replaced the skins of beasts1 formerly used for their adornment2 and1 in addition1 they were spread with tissues of fine linen and rich stuffs elaborately worked4,,xxxii-#bc ,the tables were changed at each course4,,xxxii-#bd ,the ,greeks cleaned them with sponge2,,xxxii-#be the ,latins used a sort of thick1 plushed1 linen cloth4,,xxxii-#bf ,the opulent citizens possessed a great number of tables2 some were of ivory1,,xxxii-#bg others of maple wood1 cedar of ,mount ,atlas1,,xxxii-#bh or lemon4,,xxxii-#bi,u ,cicero had one of this latter kind of wood which cost him #bjj1jjj sesterces--about #a1dhj4,,xxxii-#cj ,they rested on one1 two1 or three feet1,,xxxii-#ca and were called monopedes1 bipedes1 and tripedes4 ,the ,romans often changed tables only twice during the repast4 ,fish and flesh appeared on the first1 and the fruit was served on the second4,,xxxii-#cb ,the same custom was common to the ,greeks and the oriental nations4 ,the ,hebrews had also two tables in their solemn feasts and sacrificial banquets2 on one was served the flesh of the victim1 and on the other they placed the cup of benediction1 which passed round from one to another1 and was called 8the cup of praise40,,xxxii-#cc ,the luxury of ,rome seemed to revive after she had become extinct4 ,saint ,rmi1 ,bishop of ,rheims1 left to his heirs a silver table1 embellished with figures4,,xxxii-#cd ,charlemagne had three made of the same metal--the first represented the ancient capital of the world2 the second1 ,constantinople2 the third1 every known region of the earth4,,xxxii-#ce ,aymar1 ,viscount of ,limoges1 found on his estate a treasure1 which consisted of a table1 round which were seated an emperor1 his wife1 and several children--all as large as life1 and of massive gold4 ,richard ,cur-de-,lion pretended that the treasure belonged to him as ,lord of ,limousin1 and went to lay siege to the castle of ,chalons1 to which ,aymar had retired1 where the king received a wound1 of which he died the #fth of ,april1 #aaii4,,xxxii-#cf ,silver tables still existed in the #agth century4 ,madame de ,svign 7#afhi71 speaking of persons who1 following the example of ,louis ,,xiv41 sent their plate to the mint1 says3 8,madame de ,chaulnes has sent her table1 two guridons1 and her beautiful toilet of silver gilt40 ,at some distance from the sigma1 on a slightly raised platform1 were three kinds of elegant crdences for the cups1 wines1 and vases4,,xxxii-#cg ,the major-domo himself1 generally attended to this part of the service4 ,a very curious old book1 cited by ,strutt1 8,the ,booke of ,kervynge10,,xxxii-#ch contains the following instructions as to the manner of laying the cloth for the ,king of ,england3-- 8,serve your ,soverayne with wafers and ypocras4 ,also loke your composte be fayre and clene1 and your ale fyve dayes olde before men drynke it1 and be curtays of answere to eche persone2 and whan ye laye the clothe1 wype the borde clene with a cloute 7cloth72 then lay a couch 7cloth71 take your feluwe1 that one ende1 and holde you the other ende1 then drawe the clothe straught1 the bought on the utter edge1 take the utter parte and hange it even1 then take the thyrde clothe1 and laye it bought on the inner edge1 and laye estat with the upper parte halfe a fote brode1 then cover thy cupborde and thyne ewery with the towel of dyaper2 than take thy towell about thy necke1 and laye that on syde of the towel upon thy lefte arme1 and thereon laye your soveraynes napkyn1 and on thyn arme seven loves of brede1 with thre or foure trenchour loves1 with the ende of the towel1 in the lefte hande as the maner is2 then take thy salte seller in thy lefte hande1 and take the ende of the ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xxvii4 ,no4 #a4 ,etruscan flat vase1 of terra cotta1 with a cover1 to hold a particular drink 7warm1 perhaps74 ,no4 #b4 ,a marble vase1 ornamented1 for water4 ,no4 #c4 ,a metal vase1 to fill the cups of the guests4 ,no4 #d4 ,a ,greek ,etruscan drinking vase1 of terra cotta1 in form of a seated ,bacchanal4--8,hercul40 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #bg4 towell in your ryght hand1 to bear in spones and knyves2 than set your salte on the ryght syde1 where your soverayne shall sytte1 and on the lefte syde the salte set your trenchoures2 than laye your knyves1 and set your brede one lofe by another2 your spones1 and your napkyns1 fayre folder besyde your brede1 than over your brede1 and trenchours1 spones1 and knyves1 and at every ende of the table set a salte seller1 with two trenchour loves1 and yf ye wyll wrappe youre soverayne's brede stately1 ye must square and proporcyon your brede1 and see that no lofe be more than another2 and than shall ye make your wrapper manerly2 than take a towell of reynes1 of two yerdes and an halfe1 and take the towell by the endes double1 and laye it on the table2 than take the ende of the bought a handfull in your hande1 and wrape it harde1 and laye the ende so wrapped betwene two towells1 upon that ende so wrapped laye your brede1 bottom to bottom1 syx or seven loves2 than set your brede manerly in fourm1 and whan your soverayne's table is thus arrayed1 cover all other bordes with salt1 trenchours1 and cuppes2 and se thyn ewery be arrayed with basyns and ewers1 and water1 hote and colde2 and se ye have napkins1 cuppes and spones2 and se your pottes for wyne and ale be made clene1 and to the surnape make curtesy1 with a clothe1 under a fayre double napry2 than take the towelle's ende next you1 and the utter ende of the clothe1 on the utter syde of the table1 and holde these three endes at ones1 and folde them at ones1 that a plyte passe not a fote brode2 than laye it as it should lye3 and after mete wasshe with that1 that is at the ryghte ende of the table1 ye must guyde it out1 and the marshall must convey it2 and loke on eche clothe1 the ryghte syde be outwarde1 and draw it streygthe2 than must ye reyse the upper parte of the towell1 and laye it without ony grouyng1 and at every ende of the towell1 ye must convey halfe a yarde that the sewer may make reverently and let it be4 ,and whan your soverayne hath washen1 drawe the surnape even2 than bere the surnape to the myddes of the borde1 and take it up before your soverayne1 and bere it into the ewery agayne2 and whan your soverayne is set1 loke your towell be aboute your necke2 then make your soverayne curtesy2 than uncover your brede1 and set it by the salt1 and laye your napkyn1 knyfe1 and spone1 afore hym2 than knele on your knee till the purpayne passe eyght loves2 and loke ye set at your endes of the table foure loves at a messe2 and se that every persone have napkyn and spone1 and wayte well to the server1 how many dysshes be covered1 that so many cuppes cover ye2 than serve ye forth the table manerly1 that every man may speke your curtesy40 ,,the ,,table ,,seats4 ,the ,jews originally sat down to their meals2 but when they became subject to ,persia they laid on couches at their repasts1 like their conquerors1 and other oriental nations1 from whom the ,greeks and ,romans borrowed their custom4,,xxxii-#ci ,the most distinguished place was at the head of the table1 at the extremity of the room1 near the wall4 ,saul sat in this place of honour4,,xxxii-#dj ,under the reign of ,solomon1 the ,hebrews still used seats4,,xxxii-#da ,the ,egyptians were early acquainted with the effeminate sumptuousness of table couches4 ,they often placed on them the venerated images of ,jupiter1 ,juno1 and their king himself4,,xxxii-#db ,before they had adopted this refinement of oriental luxury1 the ,greeks sat at their repasts on chairs1 more or less costly1 but all very elegant1 similar to those which adorn our drawing-rooms1 and which have been modelled from theirs4,,xxxii-#dc ,homer's heroes sat down to table1,,xxxii-#dd and ,alexander the ,great appears to have preserved the custom4 ,that prince giving a repast to ten thousand persons1 caused all to be seated in silver arm-chairs1 covered with purple4,,xxxii-#de ,however1 ,hegesander assures us that1 among the ,macedonians1 he who had succeeded in killing a wild boar1 reclined at full length1 whilst the other guests remained seated4,,xxxii-#df ,italy always imitated ,greece1 and1 like her1 had table couches1 which at first1 were only used by men3 a feeling of propriety interdicted their use by women4,,xxxii-#dg ,but the relaxation of morals1 seconded by fashion1 soon banished this seeming reserve1 and the two sexes could only eat in a reclining posture4,,xxxii-#dh ,a round1 low table1 made of common wood1 and resting on three legs1 was placed in the dining-room of persons in humble life2 the rich had it made of lemon or maple wood1 and supported by a single ivory foot4,,xxxii-#di ,three couches at most were arranged round this table 7triclinium72,,xxxii-#ej sometimes two1 which ,plautus names biclinium2,,xxxii-#ea and these they covered with purple or other magnificent stuffs4,,xxxii-#eb ,before they placed themselves1 the guests performed their ablutions and threw off their togas1 to substitute the 8dinner robe40,,xxxii-#ec ,they then took off their sandals1,,xxxii-#ed and lay down1 three or four on each couch4,,xxxii-#ee ,the rules of good society did not allow that number to be exceeded4 ,the upper part of the body was supported by the left elbow2 the lower part was extended4 ,the head was slightly raised1 and downy little cushions supported the back4,,xxxii-#ef ,when several persons occupied the same couch1 the first placed himself at the head1 in such a manner that his feet nearly reached the shoulders of the second guest1 whose head was before the middle of the body of the preceding one1 from whom he was separated by a cushion2 and his feet descended to the back of the third guest1 who followed the same order with respect to the fourth4,,xxxii-#eg ,when a couch contained three persons1 the one in the middle occupied the place of honour2 when there were four1 that distinction belonged to the second4 ,the place at the head of the couch was only offered to the most worthy1 when not more than two persons were on the couch4,,xxxii-#eh ,among the ,persians1 the middle place was reserved for the king4 ,cyrus placed on his left the guest to whom he wished to do the most honour1 the next on his right1 the third on the left1 the fourth on the right1 and so on1 down to the last4,,xxxii-#ei ,in ,greece1 the most distinguished personage occupied the head of the table4,,xxxii-#fj ,the voluptuous ,heliogabalus only made use of couches stuffed with hares' down or partridges' feathers4,,xxxii-#fa ,the ,emperor lius ,verus introduced a more exquisite novelty3 he had his filled with lily and rose leaves4,,xxxii-#fb ,the first of these princes--a cruel monarch1 or capricious child1 according to his strange whims--amused himself1 sometimes1 by placing on a couch1 round the sigma1 at one time eight bald men2 at another1 eight gouty men2 one day1 eight grey-headed old men2 another day1 eight very fat men1 who were so crowded together that it was almost impossible for them to raise their hands to the mouth4 ,and the brainless dolt shook with laughter at their efforts and their contortions4,,xxxii-#fc ,one of his favourite diversions consisted in filling a leathern table-couch with air1 instead of wool2 and while the guests were engaged in drinking1 a tap1 concealed under the carpet1 was opened1 unknown to them2 the couch sank1 and the drinkers rolled pell-mell under the sigma1 to the great delight of the beardless emperor1 who enjoyed greatly his espiglerie4,,xxxii-#fd ,the ,celts seated themselves at their repasts on hay1 before very low tables2,,xxxii-#fe the ,belgians reclined on a kind of couch2,,xxxii-#ff the ,gauls on the skins of dogs or wolves4,,xxxii-#fg ,these different authorities are easily reconciled2 for they relate to different cantons of ,gaul4 ,the use of couches was not unknown in the middle ages2 we find the proof of it in the fabliaux of the #acth century4 ,we have also the description of a magnificent repast given by a bishop to two great officers of ,charlemagne1 at which the prelate was seated1 or lying1 on feather cushions4,,xxxii-#fh ,but this fashion was unsuccessful1 and people preferred wooden seats and stools1 covered with carpet4 ,when they gave a great feast1 they seated the guests on benches--bancs--whence comes the word 8banquet40,,xxxii-#fi ,henry ,,iii4 of ,france introduced arm-chairs for himself1 and folding stools for his suite4,,xxxii-#gj ,sometimes people eat on the floor4 ,st4 ,arnold1 ,bishop of ,soissons1 took his repast in that manner on the day of the dedication of a church1 after having had carpets spread on the ground4,,xxxii-#ga ,in winter the banqueting place was spread with straw or hay1 and in summer with grass and leaves4 ,publicans and tavern-keepers decorated their rooms in like manner4,,xxxii-#gb ,the gallantry of the middle ages had led to the adoption of a rather singular custom1 which consisted in placing the guests two and two1 man and woman1 and serving for each couple one common dish1 which they called 8eating in the same porringer40 ,neither had they more than one cup4 ,in families the same goblet served for all4 ,saint ,berlanda was disinherited by her father1 who was exasperated because1 under pretext that he was leprous1 she had washed his goblet before making use of it for herself4,,xxxii-#gc ,a passage in ,martial would seem to imply that the guests1 among the ,romans1 laid the cloth themselves2,,xxxii-#gd that is to say1 they spread on the sigma the stuff1 more or less precious1 with which it was to be adorned4 ,a somewhat whimsical custom was established in the middle ages of chivalry4 ,when it was intended to affront any one1 a herald1 or king-at-arms1 was sent to cut the cloth before him1 and turn his bread upside down4 ,that was called 8cutting away the cloth10 and was practised in reference to cowards and faithless vassals4 ,it is thought that ,bertrand ,duguesclin was the originator of this custom4,,xxxii-#ge ,mention is made of table-cloths in the life of ,st4 ,eloi4 ,they were in use on common tables2 but the costly ones were not covered4 ,these cloths were plushed and shaggy1 as we find by the description of ,nigellus1 the author of a poem on ,louis-le-,dbonnaire4 ,they were of vast dimensions4 ,in the inventory of certain effects in the monastery of ,fontenelle1 in the #ith century1 we read of four table-cloths1 each of which measured twelve yards and a-half by two and a-half2 another1 twelve and a-half by three and three-quarters2 and thirteen1 three yards and three-quarters wide4 ,in the #abth and #acth centuries table-cloths were called1 in ,france1 doubliers1 doubtless because they were folded in two4 ,this practice was eventually given up2 and instead of a doubled cloth1 the first was covered by a smaller one1 and removed at the last course4 ,henry ,,iii4 required this dessert cloth to be artistically plaited1 so as to present pleasing designs4,,xxxii-#gf ,napkins were much used in ,greece and ,italy4 ,in the time of ,augustus1 and many years after1 each guest brought his own1 as we bring our pocket-handkerchiefs4 ,catullus complains of a certain ,asinius1 who had stolen his4 ,martial brings a similar accusation against a parasite named ,hermogenes4,,xxxii-#gg ,napkins were sometimes made of asbestos1 and they were thrown into a brazier to clean them4,,xxxii-#gh ,but these rarities were seldom possessed by any but princes1 for asbestos was as expensive as jewels4,,xxxii-#gi ,the constitution of ,st4 ,ansegisius for the monastery of ,fontenelle mentions plush napkins to wipe the hands1 but they were only used before and after the repast4 ,the town of ,rheims was renowned in the middle ages for the manufacture of table linen4 ,when ,charles ,,vii4 made his entrance there they presented him with napkins1 8very rich and curious by reason of the beautiful flowered work40 ,,xxxiii4 ,,the ,,servants4 ,all the opulent families had a great number of servants1 or slaves1 whose low extraction1,,xxxiii-#a the chances of war1,,xxxiii-#b or the parental will1,,xxxiii-#c subjected to the caprices of the rich as a mere thing possessed1 a right1 a property 7res74 ,they were known1 like the slaves of the ,jews,,xxxiii-#d in former times1 by their ears1 which were pierced with an awl2,,xxxiii-#e an ineffaceable stigma1 which always reminded the freed-man of his former humiliation4 ,the slave was also often marked with a hot iron on the back1 the hands1 the cheeks1 or the forehead2 and the characters thus imprinted served the master as an evidence against his fugitive servant in whatsoever place he might find him4,,xxxiii-#f ,it is1 perhaps1 to similar marks that the prophet ,zechariah makes allusion1 when he says3 8,what are these wounds in thine hands80,,xxxiii-#g ,plautus1 whose comic vein respects neither the power of the ,gods nor the sanctity of misfortune1 calls these unfortunate creatures 8lettered slaves0 7servos literatos74,,xxxiii-#h ,a house of any note could not do without a crowd of servants1 to whom the steward 7dispensator7 apportioned the labour1 the food1 and the chastisements4,,xxxiii-#i ,in a lodge near the vestibule was the porter 7ostiarius71,,xxxiii-#aj whose watchful eye observed every one who went in or out by day or night4 ,they made sure of his vigilance by chaining him to his place4,,xxxiii-#aa ,the hall 7atrium7 was guarded by an intelligent and confidential servant1 whose functions raised him above the other slaves4,,xxxiii-#ab ,the atriensis--such was his designation--had the care of the arms1 trophies1 precious furniture1 and books1 which adorned this apartment4 ,he had also to take extreme care of the paintings and wax figures there preserved from motives of vanity or by a sentiment of respect2 and it was he who carried those images of venerated ancestors before the funeral procession of the head of the family when1 in his turn1 death had numbered him with his progenitors4,,xxxiii-#ac ,the obsonator bought in the markets the meat1 fruit1 and delicacies necessary for the repasts4,,xxxiii-#ad ,the vocatores carried the invitations1 received the guests1 and placed them at table according to their rank4,,xxxiii-#ae ,these functions required a peculiar kind of urbanity and long experience on the part of the individual who fulfilled them4 ,the arrangement1 the keeping in order1 and adornment of the table-couches belonged exclusively to the cubicularii 7valets74,,xxxiii-#af ,these servants are mentioned in ,suetonius and other ancient authors4 ,the ,csars had a great number of cubicularii who obeyed one particular chief4,,xxxiii-#ag ,the dapiferi brought the dishes into the dining-room1,,xxxiii-#ah and the nomenclators 7nomenculatores7 immediately informed the guests of the names and qualities of the things with which they were going to be served4,,xxxiii-#ai ,the structor arranged the dishes symmetrically4,,xxxiii-#bj ,the scissor 7carver7 cut up the meats to the sound of musical instruments1 of which he followed the measure4 ,finally1 young slaves 7procillatores71,,xxxiii-#ba served the guests attentively1 and poured out their drink4 ,those chosen for this employment were fine1 beardless1 adolescent youths1 with a fresh complexion1 whose long silky hair fell in curls over the shoulders4 ,a wide riband which went twice round the waist confined their fine1 white tunic--a light1 graceful vestment1 which descended in front to the knees1 and behind hardly covered the hamstring4,,xxxiii-#bb ,while the guests1 softly reclining on their table-couches1 were enjoying the agreeable surprise reserved for them by an amiable amphitryon1 slaves 7sandaligeruli7 attended to their sandals1 and fastened them on at the moment of departure4,,xxxiii-#bc ,others1 7flabellarii7 armed with fans of peacocks' feathers1,,xxxiii-#bd drove away the flies1 and cooled the banqueting-hall4,,xxxiii-#be ,the banquet terminated1 servants with torches and lanterns 7adversitores7 conducted their masters home1 and pointed out to them the stones that might be lying in their path1 and which repeated libations might have prevented their visual organs from discovering4,,xxxiii-#bf ,we must not omit1 in this nomenclature of the principal servants of a good house1 the taster 7prgustator71 who tasted or tried the viands before the guests touched them2,,xxxiii-#bg nor the chief steward 7triclinarches71 and director of the repast1 who had to occupy himself with an infinity of details in the kitchen1 the cellar1 the pantry1 the buffet1 and the dining-room4,,xxxiii-#bh ,a living synthesis of these multiplied services1 he performed them all himself4 ,the least negligence1 the slightest absence of mind on his part1 would have ruined the reputation1 utterly marred the sumptuous hospitality1 of his master4 ,never did the general of an army tremble under the weight of a responsibility so redoubtable4 ,procillatores1 or cup-bearer1 an officer whose duty was to fill and present the cup to the king and princes4 ,this charge was known in ,egypt1 and the ancients transformed ,ganymede into a cup-bearer to the gods4 ,charlemagne had master cup-bearers4 ,these officers signed royal charters1 and kept rank amongst the great officers of state4 ,the head one took the title of ,echanson to the king1 of master1 premier1 or great chanson4 ,in the #aeth century the chansons exercised their functions only on the coronations1 marriages1 and entries of kings and queens4 ,louis ,,xviii4 re-established the office of premier chanson4 ,it was abolished in #ahcj4 ,there was1 moreover1 a class of miserable1 obscure1 despised slaves1 whose useful labours rendered them necessary1 and who were treated much the same as beasts of burden4 ,this order of subaltern servants were composed of3-- ,the lecticarii4 ,they carried the elegant palanquin in which the haughty matron or the noble senator were conveyed to the banqueting-hall4,,xxxiii-#bi ,the stokers 7focarii71 who cut the wood1 lighted1 and attended to the fires4,,xxxiii-#cj ,the sweepers 7scoparii71 whose indefatigable activity kept the apartments and furniture clean4,,xxxiii-#ca ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xxviii4 ,no4 #a4 ,procillatores1 or ,echanson1 from a painting at ,herculaneum4 ,no4 #b4 ,triclinium1 from a sculpture at ,pompeii4 ,illustration3 ,,triclinium4 ,illustration3 ,,procillatores4 ,the washers 7peniculi74 ,with a sponge and a cloth they cleaned the precious tables which adorned the cnaculum1 or dining-room4 ,sometimes1 also1 they had to lay the covers4,,xxxiii-#cb ,this rapid sketch will enable the reader to form a sufficiently correct idea of the comfort and luxury which prevailed among the ,romans1 and of which the ,greeks set them the example4 ,it is hardly necessary to remark that the cup-bearers1 stewards1 carvers1 and other household officers1 whose names belong to modern ,europe1 perform functions analogous to those which similar servants performed formerly in ,italy4 ,but these last were debased by the stigma of slavery1 and degraded by long habit1 whilst the others were citizens4 ,,xxxiv4 ,,the ,,guests4 ,the ,jews and the ,egyptians washed the feet of the persons whom they received into their houses1 and offered them larger portions as a mark of greater honour4,,xxxiv-#a ,these homely and hospitable usages have disappeared with the simplicity of the primitive ages4 ,the ,greeks required their guests to arrive neither too soon nor too late4 ,it was a rule of politeness from which nothing could exempt them1,,xxxiv-#b and which we ourselves observe at this day4 ,in the ,homeric ages each one received his share of meat and wine1,,xxxiv-#c and the man who at that epoch piqued himself on his knowledge of the science of life1 never failed to offer his neighbour a part of his dinner4 ,so ,ulysses gives ,demodochus one-half of the 8chine of beef0 with which he is served4,,xxxiv-#d ,it is true that the ,king of ,ithaca was regarded as a perfect model of complaisance and delicacy4 ,another custom 7adopted it is said only in the modern taverns and dining-rooms7 was that of warming the remains of a preceding banquet for other guests4,,xxxiv-#e ,it must have constituted very poor fare1 for the ,greeks were remarkable for a formidable appetite1 and their repasts were prolonged indefinitely4 ,the banquet of ,menelaus1 noticed by ,athenus1 is a proof of it4 ,they eat at first without speaking1 and after prodigies of mastication they began to discourse4 ,then1 having washed their hands1 face1 and beard1 a fresh attack was commenced1 more formidable than the first2 and when the ardour and energy of the assailants seemed to be exhausted1 they hardly took time to breathe ere they fell on the viands with renewed avidity4 ,nothing resisted them2 the dishes were cleared2 only a few bones remained to certify their achievement4,,xxxiv-#f ,a saddening1 unsatisfactory trophy for future guests4 ,archestrates1 whose gastronomic axioms we cannot respect too much1 was averse to large dinner parties4 ,three or four persons--five at most--chosen with care1 assembled with taste1 appeared to him sufficient,,xxxiv-#g for those solemnities in which silence was to be maintained so long1 under pain1 said ,montmaur1 of no longer knowing what one eats4 ,the ,lacedmonians admitted as many as fifteen guests1 but they elected a king of the banquet1 and that ephemeral autocrat decided without appeal all questions which might have compromised the tranquillity of the banquet4,,xxxiv-#h ,greater numbers met together in ,athens4 ,plato gave a supper to twenty-eight of his friends4,,xxxiv-#i ,hundreds of citizens often met together at the public repasts2 but then a magistrate was deputed to see that modesty1 moderation1 and temperance were observed4,,xxxiv-#aj ,the ,romans understood that it is at table that one lives2 so they gave those whom they invited the name of conviva 7cum vivere1 living conjointly71 a charming type of that easy1 gentle cordiality which arises1 is fortified1 and displayed between those who partake of the same dishes1 drain in friendship cups of the same wine1 and separate with the hope of soon seeing a return of the same pleasures4 ,people were very polite in ,rome1 as in ,greece1 when they met in the dining-room4 ,never did they fail to make a low bow4,,xxxiv-#aa ,this act of ,roman courtesy recalls a very pretty expression of ,fontenelle's1 which we cannot refrain from citing4 ,this grand nephew of the great ,corneille passed1 on his way to the table1 before ,madame ,helvtius1 whom he had not perceived4 ,fontenelle was then ninety years of age4 8,see10 said she1 8what esteem ,i must have for your gallantry3 you pass before me without looking at me40 8,be not surprised1 ,madam10 replied the old gallant2 8if ,i had looked at you ,i should never have passed40 ,in the year of ,rome #egj 7#ahb ,b4,c471 the tribune of the people1 ,c4 ,orchius1 was the prime mover of the first sumptuary law1 which enacted that the number of guests were not to exceed that of the ,muses1 nor be less than that of the ,graces4,,xxxiv-#ab ,subsequently seven were thought to be sufficient1 and some insisted that when there were more the banquet ought rather to be called a rout4,,xxxiv-#ac ,in the year of ,rome #edh1 the ,consul ,c4 ,fannius carried a law 7,lex ,fannia7 which prohibited the assembling of more than three persons of the same family on ordinary days1 or more than five at the nones1 or on festival days4,,xxxiv-#ad ,this rigorous measure was pressingly solicited by the rational portion of every order of citizens1 who could not witness without a shudder the whole of ,italy plunge into the most brutifying excesses1 after obscene orgies which we dare not describe4,,xxxiv-#ae ,but who could dissipate that fearful bewilderment with which nations seem to be seized when they are about to fall8 ,rome blushed for her ancient virtues1 and veiled them with dissolution and crimes4 ,she had exhausted all the prodigies that the genius of debauchery could invent--she created monsters6 ,ruinous banquets soon revived1 and the number of guests had no other rule than the unbridled desire of ostentation and expense4 ,let us not forget those miserable parasites who managed to get to the corner of a table in ,greece and ,italy1 and to whom meagre portions were conceded as a reward for cringing servility1 such as the vilest slave would have been ashamed to exhibit4 ,there were three kinds of parasites4 ,some1 under the name of buffoons1 amused the company with their grotesque attitudes and ridiculous sayings4,,xxxiv-#af ,others allowed their ears to be boxed1 and suffered a thousand different torments1 provided a piece of meat or a bone were afterwards thrown to them4 ,these patient sufferers,,xxxiv-#ag diverted the ,greeks and ,romans very much4 ,the adulatory parasites were the most skilful of these hungry parias4 ,they were well treated and almost respected4 ,they were persons who possessed a kind of merit which was always equally appreciated1 and to which we still render justice--they flattered whosoever gave them a supper4,,xxxiv-#ah ,an energetic1 familiar expression in ,french often replaces the word parasite1 transmitted to us by the ,greeks and ,romans3 that expression1 which conveys the same idea1 is pique-assiette1 an image necessarily associated with disdain and insult4 ,the ,count de ,gerval had invited to his table several persons of high distinction1 among whom was remarked one of those intruders who find means to get themselves received1 notwithstanding the profound contempt they inspire4 ,the dessert was just served1 and a magnificent pear attracted the attention of the parasite1 who endeavoured to bear it off on the point of his knife1 but1 in so doing1 he broke a valuable plate4 8,the deuce take it1 sir10 said the master of the house2 8piquez l'assiette as long as you like1 but don't break it60 ,the guests always washed their hands1 and frequently their feet1 before they placed themselves on the triclinium4,b,,xxxiv-#ai ,they received that custom from the orientals1 and we find numerous examples of it in the ,old and ,new ,testaments4,,xxxiv-#bj ,perfumes were then poured on their heads1,,xxxiv-#ba as among the ,jews1,,xxxiv-#bb and wreaths of flowers were offered them4,,xxxiv-#bc ,it was at this solemn moment that the guests turned their attention to the election of the king of the banquet1 whose grave functions consisted in regulating the number of cups that each one was expected to empty during the repast4,,xxxiv-#bd ,among the ,anglo-,saxons1 he who wished to drink asked the nearest person to pledge him4 ,the latter replied affirmatively1 and immediately armed himself with his knife or his sword to protect the other while he emptied his cup4 ,the death of ,edward the ,martyr1 it is said1 gave rise to this custom4 ,elfrida1 his mother-in-law1 caused him to be basely assassinated from behind whilst he was drinking4,,xxxiv-#be 8,the following10 says ,strutt1 8according to ancient historians1 is the manner in which ,rowena1 daughter or niece of ,hengist1 drank to the health of ,vortigern1 ,king of the ,britons4 ,she entered the banqueting-hall where the prince was with his guests1 and1 making a low curtsey1 she said3 #8,to your health1 my lord and king4' ,then1 having put the cup to her lips1 she presented it on her knees to ,vortigern1 who took it and emptied it1 after having replied3 #8,i drink to your health4'nbsp20,,xxxiv-#bf ,we find in the works of ,pasquier an affecting anecdote of the unfortunate ,queen of ,scotland1 ,mary ,stuart3 8,on the eve of her death10 says he1 8towards the end of the supper1 she drank to all her attendants1 commanding them to pledge her2 the which obeying1 and mingling their tears with their wine1 they drank to their mistress40 ,divers spectacles1 of which we shall have occasion to speak hereafter1 occupied the leisure of the guests during the interval necessary to remove the remains of one course and serve the next4 ,these representations and amusements1 of which they never tired in the middle ages1 received from our ancestors1 in ,france1 the name of entre-mets2 a designation much more true and just than the modern acceptation imposed on the word--anything served between the roast and the dessert4 ,the entre-mets were interludes1 pantomimes1 concerts1 and even melodramas performed between each course4 ,so that a piece which in our days attracts crowds to one or other of the theatres1 would have been then a little entre-met1 or a cold side-dish 7hors-d'uvre74 ,in #abhg1 at the marriage of ,robert1 son of ,saint-,louis1 with ,machault1 ,countess of ,artois1 very singular spectacles were given between each course of the banquet4 ,a horseman crossed the hall by making his horse walk on a thick cord1 extended above the heads of the guests4 ,at the four corners of the table were musicians seated on oxen2 and monkeys1 mounted on goats1 seemed to play the harp4,,xxxiv-#bg ,a droll custom prevailed at the court of the ,frank kings4 ,st4 ,germier having come to solicit some favour from the ,king of the ,franks1 ,clovis1 that haughty ,sicamber received the bishop with kindness1 and had an excellent dinner served for him4 ,the holy bishop took leave of the king after the banquet1 and the king1 who sometimes piqued himself upon his politeness1 pulled out a hair1 according to the custom of the time1 and offered it to his guest4 ,each of the courtiers hastened1 in his turn1 to imitate the benevolent monarch1 and the virtuous prelate returned to his diocese enchanted with the reception he had met with at the court4,,xxxiv-#bh ,among other amusements prepared for ,queen ,elizabeth1 during her sojourn at the celebrated castle of ,kenilworth1 8,there was10 says ,laneham1 8an ,italian juggler who performed feats of strength and leaps1 and cut such capers with so much suppleness and ease1 that ,i began to ask myself whether it were a man or a sprite4 ,indeed ,i know not what to say of that comical fellow10 adds the artless chronicler2 8,i suppose his back must resemble that of a lamprey--it had no bone40,,xxxiv-#bi ,in ,england1 during the middle ages1 the courts of princes and the castles of the great were crowded with visitors1 who were always received with sumptuous hospitality4 ,the pomp displayed by the lords was truly extraordinary1 and it is difficult to understand how their fortunes could suffice for it4 ,they had their privy-counsellors1 treasurers1 secretaries1 chaplains1 heralds1 pursuivants-at-arms1 pages1 guards1 trumpeters--in a word1 all the officers1 all the servants1 with which royalty itself is surrounded4 ,and besides this numerous domestic establishment1 there were troops of minstrels1 clowns1 jugglers1 strolling players1 rope-dancers1 c41 lodged there at the great banqueting times4 ,each of the apartments open to the guests presented spectacles in harmony with the gross taste of the epoch4 ,it was a marvellous confusion1 a prodigious chaos1 in which the ear was struck at once with the sound of dishes1 of cups clashing one against another1 of harmonious music1 with the bustle of the dance1 the notes of the song1 pasquinades1 somersaults1 and everywhere the most boisterous laughter4 ,the face of decency alone was slightly veiled4,,xxxiv-#cj ,sometimes the term entre-mets was also applied to decorations1 which were paraded through the banqueting hall1 and which represented cities1 castles1 and gardens1 with fountains1 whence flowed all kinds of liquors4 ,at the dinner which ,charles ,v4 of ,france gave to the ,emperor ,charles ,,iv4 there was a grand spectacle1 or entre-met4 ,a vessel appeared with its masts1 sails1 and rigging2 it advanced into the middle of the hall1 by means of a machine concealed from the view of all4 ,a moment after there appeared the city of ,jerusalem2 its towers covered with ,saracens4 ,the vessel approached it1 and the city was taken by the ,christian knights who manned the vessel4,,xxxiv-#ca ,among the ,egyptians a funereal idea was made the means of rousing the erewhile buoyant spirits of the guests at the end of a repast4 ,a servant entered carrying a skeleton1 or the representation of a mummy1 which he took slowly round the dining-room4 ,he then approached the guests1 and said3 8,eat1 drink1 amuse yourselves to-day2 to-morrow you die40,,xxxiv-#cb ,greece1 and ,rome in particular1 adopted this lugubrious emblem of the rapid flight of time and pleasure4 ,this sepulchral image hurried them on in the enjoyment of the present3 it never revealed to paganism a 8hope full of immortality40,,xxxiv-#cc ,,xxxv4 ,a ,,roman ,,supper4 ,two lustres had passed since the world obeyed ,domitius ,nero1 son of ,agrippina4 ,the ,romans1 a herd of vile slaves1 docile adulators of the infamous ,csar1 had already celebrated nine anniversaries of his happy accession to the empire1 and the ,flamen of ,jupiter solemnly thanked the gods at each of these epochs for all the benefits that the well-beloved monarch had unceasingly lavished on the earth4 ,few princes1 it is true1 ever equalled ,nero4 ,he and his mother had poisoned ,junius ,silanus1 the pro-consul of ,asia2 subsequently the young emperor made away with ,agrippina1 and the senate applauded that horrible crime1 which was only the prelude to outrageous enterprises which astonish the historian who narrates them4 ,the ,flamen was1 indeed1 bound to offer up solemn thanksgivings to ,jupiter for having hitherto restrained the crowned monster from the commission of evil which afterwards marked his flagitious career4 ,it was the #fdth year of the ,christian era4 ,the emperor had passed some time at ,naples1 whence it was thought he would go into ,greece2 but suddenly changing his project1 he returned to the capital of the world1 to prepare1 it was said1 a spectacle of unheard-of splendour1 and such as ,nero alone could conceive4 ,one of his ancient freed-men1 ,caius ,domitius ,seba1 resolved to celebrate the return to ,rome1 and the tenth anniversary of the reign of his master1 who was now become his patron and friend4 ,that man possessed immense riches1 a formidable credit at court1 and an insolence which had struck so much terror into the souls of the proudest families of the empire1 that they had long since humbled themselves before him4 ,illustration3 ,,roman ,,banquet ,,in ,,the ,,year #fd4 ,so that it was no sooner whispered among the ,roman aristocracy that the magnificent ,seba intended to give a banquet1 than one and all became anxious to be numbered with the guests of ,csar's favourite4 ,however1 days past1 the time for the nocturnal festival approached1 and the ,invitor had not made his appearance4 ,among the ,hebrews1 nothing was more simple and unsophisticated than an invitation to dinner2,,xxxv-#a but1 with the ,romans1 etiquette required that the amphitryon should send one of his servants to each person who was to participate in his pompous hospitality4 ,this servant1 who was generally a freed-man1 went from house to house1 and indicated1 with exquisite politeness1 the day and precise hour of the banquet4,,xxxv-#b ,seba's ,invitor was at last announced to the two consuls of the year1 ,lecanius ,bassus and ,licinius ,crassus1 who accepted with tender gratitude the distinguished honour which the enfranchised slave deigned to confer upon them4 ,after them the same favour was received with the same gratitude by the ,agrippas1 the ,ancuses1 the ,cossuses1 the ,drususes1 and all those who were the most noble1 powerful1 and proud in ,rome4 ,the next day1 about two o'clock in the afternoon 7the repast was to begin at six o'clock71 an unusual movement reigned in the ,palatine baths1 and those of ,daphnis1 near the ,sacred ,way4 ,the mediastini kept up a steady fire under the coppers2 the capsarii folded with care the clothes of the bathers2 the unguentarii sold their oils and unguents2 and the fricatores1 armed with the strigil--a sort of wooden1 iron1 or horn spoon--rubbed and scraped the skin before the tractatores came gently to manipulate the joints1 and skilfully shampoo the body1 which gained by this operation more elasticity and suppleness4,,xxxv-#c ,the upper classes of the ,romans never sat down to table until they had undergone all these preliminaries of minute cleanliness4,,xxxv-#d ,the future guests return home1 after the bath1 to employ the skill of the barbers 7tonsores71 who are in waiting to give more grace to the hair1 and remove1 with the aid of tweezers and pumice1 the first silvery indications of the lapse of years1 which1 though incessantly effaced1 still re-appeared4,,xxxv-#e ,a more serious occupation succeeded4 ,epicureans should never neglect their teeth--particularly at the approach of a banquet4 ,nor did the ingenious gastronomy of the first century of our era neglect to invent tooth-powder1 which cleaned the enamel without injuring it1 and fortified the gums--those fortresses of mastication4 ,some persons made use of substances which no one would adopt in the present day1 because our delicacy revolts against them4,,xxxv-#f ,but preparations less offensive were employed1 and men of good taste1 as well as fashionable ladies1 extolled ox-gall1 goats' milk1 the ash of stags' horns1 of pigs' hoofs1 and of egg-shells4,,xxxv-#g ,thus were the teeth equipped1 as the comic ,plautus has it2,,xxxv-#h or1 rather1 thus were they prepared to undergo the labour required of them4 ,those who had had the misfortune to lose some of those powerful gastrophagic auxiliaries substituted false ones of ivory1 which art found means to render absolutely similar to their neighbours4 ,the eye was deceived3 what more could be required8,,xxxv-#i ,but the clepsydr,,xxxv-#aj and the celebrated clock of the field of ,mars,,xxxv-#aa announce that it is time to put on the white1 light robe1 a little longer than the pallium of the ,greeks1 and to which the ,latins have given the names of vestis cnatoria1 vestis triclinaria1 vestis convivalis4,,xxxv-#ab ,this last part of their toilet finished1 the guests set out for the magnificent abode of their host1 preceded by a few slaves1 and followed by their shadows--those hungry hangers-on of whom mention has already been made1 and who strive to obtain1 on the road1 a smile or a word by dint of cringing obsequiousness4 ,arrived at the atrium1 the crowd of ,roman nobles are conducted into the interior of the house by the parasites of ,seba4 ,the proud freed-man disturbed himself for nobody2 but1 like the opulent ,greeks1 whom he aped1 he left to these ignoble familiars the care of replacing him in the honours of his palace4,,xxxv-#ac ,they enter an immense hall1 decorated with unheard-of luxury1 lighted by lustres1,,xxxv-#ad and round which are several ranks of seats1 not unlike the folding-stools and arm-chairs we meet with in the present day in the most elegant boudoirs4,,xxxv-#ae ,the guests seat themselves1 and anon ,egyptian slaves approach with perfumed snow-water1 which flows from golden vases of the most graceful forms1 and cools the hands of senators and ,roman knights1,,xxxv-#af whilst other servants disincumber them of their patrician shoes1 the end of which represents a crescent4,,xxxv-#ag ,the feet then received a similar ablution1 and fresh slaves1 skilful orthopdists1 accomplish in a twinkling the delicate toilet of these extremities1,,xxxv-#ah and imprison them again in elegant and commodious sandals1 fastened by ribands which cross on the top4,,xxxv-#ai ,here and there a few persons are remarked who still wear their togas1 having doubtless forgotten to substitute the banqueting dress4 ,so soon as the major-domo perceives them he makes a sign to some youths clothed in white tunics1 who hasten to present to each of these guests a synthesis1 or short woollen vestment of different colours1,,xxxv-#bj which envelopes the whole body1 but leaves the shoulders and breast uncovered if the wearer desire it4,,xxxv-#ba ,these indispensable preliminaries being terminated1 the seats disappeared1 and the guests stood waiting for the freed-man1 ,seba1 who speedily entered accompanied by the two consuls1 for whom places of honour had been reserved on couches beside their pompous amphitryon4 ,the latter deigned to address a few words of welcome to his noble company1 and each one stretched himself on his couch of gold and purple4 ,the fourth couch was given up to the parasites and shadows4,,xxxv-#bb ,meanwhile1 slaves were burning precious perfumes in golden vases 7acerr71 and young children were pouring on the hair of the guests odoriferous essences1 which filled the banqueting hall with balmy fragrance4 ,rome had borrowed this custom from the east4,,xxxv-#bc ,the golden panelling of the hall shone with dazzling brightness as it reflected a torrent of light from the crystal candelabra1,,xxxv-#bd and the melodious sounds of the hydraulic organ,,xxxv-#be announced the commencement of the banquet4,,xxxv-#bf ,at this signal1 servants1 richly dressed1 place within the circle formed by the couches lemon-wood tables of inestimable price1,,xxxv-#bg which they immediately cover with a rich tissue of gold and silk4 ,that done1 sylph-like hands spread them over with a profusion of the rarest flowers and rose leaves4,,xxxv-#bh ,musicians 7symphoniaci7 then occupy a kind of orchestra or platform1 raised at one of the extremities of the hall1,,xxxv-#bi among whom the flute and harp players are to be particularly remarked4,,xxxv-#cj ,the former constitute1 among the ,romans1 a special body dubbed with the name of ,college1 and they have the exclusive right to attend banquets and enliven the pomp of ceremonies4,,xxxv-#ca ,these musicians execute a slow1 dulcet melody while the slaves are placing on the tables the statues of some of the principal gods1,,xxxv-#cb together with that of the divine ,nero1 whom a pusillanimous flattery ranks already with the immortals4 ,at this moment they also arrange here and there the salt-cellars1,,xxxv-#cc while the more meditative of the guests invoke ,jupiter1 before they give themselves up to the pleasures of the feast4,,xxxv-#cd ,hardly is this short prayer finished when joyous cup-bearers distribute charming little crystal cups1,,xxxv-#ce which thiopian slaves,,xxxv-#cf fill to the brim with a generous1 honeyed wine1 drawn1 in the first instance1 from those large pitchers which the ,greeks have named amphor4 ,some drops of the exhilarating liquid are offered to the ,lares 7household gods71 by sprinkling it in their honour on the floor and the table4,,xxxv-#cg ,this pious libation precedes the entrance of the first course 7antecna71,,xxxv-#ch composed of the lightest and least succulent kinds of viands1 by means of which a generous host stimulates the appetites of his guests1 as a preparative for brilliant exploits4,,xxxv-#ci ,lettuces1 olives1 pomegranates1 ,damascus plums1,,xxxv-#dj tastefully arranged on silver dishes1,,xxxv-#da serve to encircle dormice1 prepared with honey and poppy juice1,,xxxv-#db forcemeat balls of crab1 lobster1 or cray-fish1 prepared with pepper1 cummin1 and benzoin root4,,xxxv-#dc ,a little further1 champignon and egg sausages1 prepared with garum1,,xxxv-#dd are placed by the side of pheasant sausages1 a delicious mixture of the fat of that bird1 chopped very small1 and mixed with pepper1 gravy1 and sweet sun-made wine1 to which a small quantity of hydrogarum is added4,,xxxv-#de ,tempting as these delicate viands may be1 the practised epicureans seem to have a decided preference for peacocks' eggs1 which they open with spoons4 ,these eggs1 a master-piece of the culinary artist1 who presides over ,seba's stoves1 are composed of a fine perfumed paste1 and contain1 each one1 a fat1 roasted1 ortolan surrounded with yolk of egg1 and seasoned with pepper4,,xxxv-#df ,we will not go through the list of all the dishes which composed the antecna4 ,the nomenclature was offered1 according to custom1 to the guests of the rich freed-man1 but the reader would doubtless think it a little tiresome4 ,we must1 however1 inform him1 that the true gastronomists--and there were many at that banquet--did no more than give note of preparation to their appetite1 by plying it with pickled radishes1,,xxxv-#dg some few grasshoppers of a particular species1 fried with garum1,,xxxv-#dh grey peas1 and olives fresh from their brine4,,xxxv-#di ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xxx4 ,no4 #a4 ,a ,greek ,etruscan vase1 or amphora1 of terra cotta1 for wine and water1 commonly placed on the dinner table4--,,hamilton4 ,no4 #b4 ,a ,greek terra cotta vase1 for a particular wine4--,,caylus4 ,no4 #c4 ,etruscan terra cotta vase1 to hold wine on the table4--,,caylus4 ,no4 #d4 ,a glass amphora1 or vase1 of large dimensions1 for ,falernian wine4 ,all found at ,herculaneum4--,,saint-,,non4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,pl4 #cd4 ,the first course was removed to the sound of music4,,xxxv-#ej ,now came chased silver cups1 much larger than those of crystal,,xxxv-#ea--no doubt because thirst is excited by drinking4 ,amphor of a secular wine were ranged by the major-domo on the mosaic flooring of the hall1 at some distance from the triclinium1 and they proceeded1 by the invitation of the consuls1 to the choice of the symposiarch 7or master of the banquet71 upon whom devolved the duty of regulating how often any person was to drink1 and of preventing the guests1 in the best manner he could1 from yielding too easily to bacchic provocations1 which commonly led to unseemly gaiety and the loss of reason4,,xxxv-#eb ,this sort magiric magistracy was obtained by lot1 or the unanimous call for a personage worthy of such a distinction4,,xxxv-#ec ,that memorable evening every voice named the senator ,drusillus1 one of the most determined drinkers of the ,roman aristocracy4 ,drusillus smiled1 snapped his fingers1,,xxxv-#ed and1 by the order of his master1 thus intimated1 a slave1 who was standing behind him1 filled a golden crater,c with wine1 and presented it to the symposiarch4 ,thereupon1 the latter1 slightly raising his head from the downy cushions on which it rested1 and supporting it from the left elbow1,,xxxv-#ee makes a graceful bow to the amphitryon1 the consuls1 and the rest of the assembly4 ,then1 with a stentorian voice3 8,slaves10 he cried1 8bring wreaths of flowers4,,xxxv-#ef ,fugitive images of the spring and of pleasure1 they shall bind our brows4,,xxxv-#eg ,at the same time let garlands adorn our craters1 in which the cherished liquor of the son of ,semele sparkles2,,xxxv-#eh and let us bestow no thought1 during the fleet joys of the banquet1 on the uncertain and fatal hour when ,atropos shall pronounce our doom40 ,this speech1 slightly impregnated with the epicurean philosophy so much in fashion during the reign of ,nero1 had at least the merit of a praiseworthy conciseness4 ,nor did it fail to attract applause from the auditors1 whose brows and cups were speedily adorned with wreaths of roses1 which young boys1 clothed in white tunics1 arranged with marvellous art4 ,the slight rustling of the flowers was soon drowned by the shrill noise of the trumpets which announced the second course4 ,a flattering buzz welcomed this profusion of viands1 which encumbered the tables1 and well-nigh crushed them with their weight4 ,there were the peacock1,,xxxv-#ei the duck1 whose breast and head are so much coveted2,,xxxv-#fj capons' livers1,,xxxv-#fj peppered becaficoes1,,xxxv-#fa grouse1 the turtle-dove1 the phenicopter1,,xxxv-#fb and an infinite number of rare birds1 the costly tribute that ,europe1 ,asia1 and ,africa1 exchanged against the gold of the prodigal ,seba4 ,other gold and silver dishes contained these inestimable fishes which ,roman luxury brought so much into fashion2 the scarus1 or parrot fish1 sturgeons1 turbots1 mullets1 and those numerous inhabitants of every sea with which the tanks were stocked1 to supply the kitchen of the freed-slave4 ,moreover1 there were wild boars la ,troyenne1,,xxxv-#fc ranged in the centre of the table1 in silver basins of a prodigious value2 stuffed pigs1 quarters of stag and roebuck1 loins of beef1 kidneys surrounded with ,african figs1,,xxxv-#fd sows' paps prepared with milk1,,xxxv-#fe sows' flank1,,xxxv-#ff and some pieces of ,gallic bacon1,,xxxv-#fg which certain gluttons loved to associate with a piece of succulent venison4 ,while the carvers were cutting up the meats with incredible address1 to the sound of a light but animated music1 ,numidian slaves filled the cups from small leathern bottles with old ,greek wine1,,xxxv-#fh a servant carried bread round the tables in a silver basket1,,xxxv-#fi and others ventilated the apartment1,,xxxv-#gj or offered the guests warm and iced water4,,xxxv-#ga ,in every direction trays circulated1 covered with divers kinds of meats1,,xxxv-#gb which they took care to humect with peppered garum1,,xxxv-#gc that strange condiment1 which the freed-slave procured from ,spain at a price equal to its weight in gold4 ,suddenly the symposiarch commands silence3 the musicians obey--the slaves are motionless4 8,let us drain our cups10 said he1 8in honour of ,csar4 ,let us celebrate the tenth anniversary of his glorious reign1 and his happy return to the metropolis of the world4 ,let us drink1 senators and knights1 as many craters as there are letters in the cherished name of the emperor40,,xxxv-#gd ,sense and reason must have succumbed1 had the patrician assembly toasted ,caius ,lucius ,domitius ,nero3 it would have been constructive treason not to empty twenty-three cups2 but they limited themselves to four1 which represented the last of these names4 ,joy unrestrained floated with the fumy wine1 furnished from large ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xxxi4 ,no4 #a4 ,curious silver dish1 with ,etruscan letters engraved around the head of ,medusa4 ,petronius speaks of two silver dishes1 upon which were engraved the name of ,trimalcion1 and the weight of each dish4--,,athen42 ,,stuart4 ,nos4 #b and #c4 ,silver dishes4--,,gorrie1 8,etruscan ,mus40 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #ce4 glass amphor1 on which were these words3 8,falernian wine of a hundred leaves1 made under the consulship of ,opimius40,,xxxv-#ge;,d ,the consuls and the ,roman nobles almost forgot1 in the voluptuousness of the splendid repast1 that the executioner of ,britannicus and ,burrhus1 the crowned tiger1 was doubtless thinking at that very moment of taking some of the heads then present4 ,a funereal spectacle soon aroused their dormant fears4 ,an officer of the palace presented himself at the door of the banqueting hall4 ,he advanced slowly1 followed by two slaves1 who laid on the table an object covered with a winding-sheet4 8,pressing occupations10 said the imperial messenger1 8prevent ,csar from sharing with you the hospitality of ,seba2 but he thinks of you1 and sends you a testimony of his remembrance40 8,long live ,csar60 cry the consuls1 the freed-slave1 and some few trembling voices4 ,the officer retires4 ,the veil which shrouds ,nero's present from every eye is removed1 and all perceive a silver skeleton1 of terrifying truthfulness1 and which1 by its admirable mechanism1 proclaims artist to be one of those ,greeks who have come to ,rome to seek fortune and celebrity4,,xxxv-#gf ,this episode engrossed the thoughts of the greater part of the guests1 and the old senator1 ,lucius ,vafra1 could not help saying1 with a sigh1 to his neighbour1 ,virginius ,rufus1 one of the consuls of the preceding year3 8,fear the ,greeks3 fear this disastrous present60,,xxxv-#gg ,but the hot wine which was being served1,,xxxv-#gh and the healths which succeeded without interruption1 drove the sinistrous presage from their minds2 and1 moreover1 the present of the emperor was nowise contrary to the manners of the epoch1 and the thought of death would only have enlivened the repast1 if it had been presented by any other than ,nero4 ,at first healths were drunk in the ,greek fashion1--that is1 beginning by the most distinguished personages1 he who drank bowed and said3 8,i wish you every kind of prosperity20 or simply3 8,i salute you40 ,in pronouncing these words1 he who drank the health took only a part of the wine contained in the cup1 and sent the remainder to the guest he had just designated4,,xxxv-#gi ,many craters were then emptied in honour of the mistress of the house 7domin72 neither were the illustrious dead nor absent friends forgotten4 ,the formula was nearly the same for all3 8,to your healths10 said the symposiarch1 8to our own1 to that also of the friend whom we cherish40,,xxxv-#hj ,sometimes ,drusillus1 still fascinated with that dulcet poetry of the ,greeks with which1 when young1 he had stored his mind1 would take up the harmonious cadences of ,horace1 and thus personate1 as it were1 those divine chanters of ,attica who have immortalised themselves by celebrating love1 wine1 and pleasure4 ,one of his extempore strains1 while sipping the sparkling liquor from his cup1 was3-- ,this dream of bliss maintain1 prolong these happy hours1 ,o1 all-enchanting wines6 perfumed with flowers ,which ,cos and ,cyprus rear2 ,let nothing ever change this soul-felt1 rich delight2 ,for ,i would say1 when parting for the realms of night1 ,i never knew a tear4 ,this sensual philosophy found numberless echoes in that vainglorious ,rome1 who exhausted her disdain1 outrage1 and punishments on the 7so called7 new fantastic folly that the ,nazarenes were endeavouring to introduce4 ,a few years more1 and their doctrine will subjugate the universe6 ,time passed rapidly1 and the meats1 divided into equal portions1 were served to the guests1 who frequently did not touch them1 but gave their share to their servants1 or sent it home4,,xxxv-#ha ,so soon as the major-domo perceived that appetite began to flag1 he ordered the whole to be cleared1 and the dessert1 spread on ivory tables1,,xxxv-#hb to be substituted for the more substantial comestibles1 with which the guests were satiated4 ,exquisite drinks1 artificial wines1 delicate and light aliments1,,xxxv-#hc still came to titillate the palate and the burthened stomach--pears1 apples1 walnuts1 dried-figs1 grapes2,,xxxv-#hd a thousand different kinds of raw1 cooked1 and preserved fruits2 tarts1 cakes1 and those incredible delicacies which the ,latins designated by the collective generic term bellaria1 wooed the epicurean--if we may be allowed the expression--with their mild1 material1 dangerous1 and irresistible eloquence4 ,some one proposed to replace the half-faded flowers by ,egyptian wreaths1 and every brow was soon bound with garlands of roses and myrtle1 interspersed with little birds1 which1 by their fluttering and chirping1 soon restored the drowsy company to that animation which seemed to wane4,,xxxv-#he ,then began the amusements of the evening4 ,a troop of strolling players were admired for their agility and suppleness4 ,some rolled round a cord like a wheel which turns on its axle2 they hung by the neck1 by one foot1 and varied these perilous exercises in a thousand different ways4 ,others slid down a cord1 lying on the stomach1 with their arms and legs extended4 ,some revolved as they ran along a descending cord4 ,some1 in a word1 performed feats of strength and address on the horizontal rope which were truly incomprehensible1 and at an elevation from the flooring which would have rendered a fall fatal4,,xxxv-#hf ,to these acrobats succeeded prestigiators1 who appeared to receive a peculiar degree of attention4 ,one placed under cups a certain number of shells1 dry peas1 or little balls1 and he caused them to disappear and re-appear at will4,,xxxv-#hg ,the spectators strained their eyes without being able to comprehend anything4 ,another of these mountebanks wrote or read very distinctly while whirling rapidly round4,,xxxv-#hh ,some vomited flames from the mouth1 or walked1 head downwards1 on their hands1 and beat with their feet the movements of the most agile dancers4,,xxxv-#hi ,then a woman appeared1 holding in her hand twelve bronze hoops1 with several little rings of the same metal1 which rolled round them4 ,she danced gracefully1 throwing and successively catching the twelve hoops1 without ever allowing any of the rings to fall4,,xxxv-#ij ,after that1 another juggler rushed1 with his breast uncovered1 into the midst of a forest of naked swords4 ,every one thought him to be covered with wounds1 but he re-appeared1 with a smile on his countenance1 whole and sound4,,xxxv-#ia ,these feats were followed by an interlude1 in which the parts were amusingly sustained by marionettes4 ,the ,greeks knew this childish pastime1,,xxxv-#ib and ,rome did not disdain it4,,xxxv-#ic ,these little bronze and ivory figures,,xxxv-#id played some comic scenes tolerably well1 and obtained the applauses of grave senators1 who more than once forgot their senility as they contemplated the grotesque pantomime4 ,the only thing now wanting to render ,seba's supper a worthy specimen of nocturnal ,roman feasts was1 to produce before the guests one of those spectacles which outrage morals and humanity4 ,nero's freed-man had been too well tutored to refuse them this diversion4 ,young ,syrians1,,xxxv-#ie or bewitching ,spanish girls1,,xxxv-#if went through lascivious dances1,,xxxv-#ig which raised no blush on the brow of rigid magistrates1 who forgot1 in the abode of the vile slave1 the respect due to their age and dignity4 ,after the voluptuous scenes of the lewd ,celtiberians1 blood was required3 for they seem to have been formed by nature to take a strange delight in sudden contrasts4 ,ten couples of gladiators1 armed with swords and bucklers1 occupied a space assigned to them1 and ten horrible duels recreated the attentive assembly4 ,for a long time nothing was heard but the clash of arms2 but the thirst for conquest animated those ferocious combatants1 and they rushed with loud cries on one another4 ,blood flowed on all sides2 the couches were dyed with it1 and the white robes of the guests were soon spotted4 ,some of the combatants fell1 and the rattles announced approaching death2 others preserved1 in their last struggle1 a funereal silence1 or endeavoured to fix their teeth in the flesh of their enemies standing erect beside them4,,xxxv-#ih ,the spectators1 stupified with wine and good cheer1 contemplated this carnage with cold impassibility2 they only roused from their torpor when one of those men1 happening to trip against a table1 struck his head on the ivory1 and his antagonist1 prompt as lightning1 plunged his sword into the throat of his foe1 whence torrents of black1 reeking blood inundated the polished ivory1 and flowed in long streams among the fruits1 cups1 and flowers4 ,the deed was applauded2 servants washed the tables and the floor with perfumed water1 and these stirring scenes were soon forgotten4 ,a last cup was drunk to the good genius1,,xxxv-#ii whose protection they invoked before returning home4 ,meantime a stifling atmosphere pervades every part of the hall1 and a hollow noise1 rumbling in the distance1 excites at intervals in the minds of the guests a sort of undefinable apprehension--the ordinary presage of an unknown but imminent catastrophe4 ,the consuls raise themselves on their couches and listen2 their host endeavours to calm their fears2 but at this moment a slave1 panting for breath1 rushes towards ,seba1 and pronounces a few inarticulate words4 8,fire60 cries the anguished freed-man4 8,where is the fire80 inquire all the terrified guests1 who have heard but this one sinistrous word4 8,everywhere60 replies the slave2 8it has burst forth simultaneously in every part of the city60 ,no one waits to hear more4 ,consuls1 senators1 knights1 musicians1 and servants1 jostle one another2 and1 abandoning those who fall1 arrive pell-mell at the atrium4 ,the porter still chained1 trembles at his post2 the flames already envelop the sumptuous edifice--the entire street is one vast brazier6 ,rome burns1 and will soon be a heap of ruins and ashes6 ,flight is impossible--the flames intercept every issue6 99 99 99 ,nero has taken his measures well4 ,we will not attempt to depict the mute but terrible despair of those proud patricians1 at bay in the midst of an ocean of fire1 in which they are fated ere long to perish4 ,the wreaths of flowers which bind their brows are already parched by the scorching breath of those roaring flames1 which engulf and consume everything as they sweep along4 ,a thick smoke begrimes the lustrous robes1 whose graceful folds erewhile displayed the exquisite urbanity of ,seba's guests1 and which now exhibit only a sad emblem of festive joys4 ,the dread of death1 and ,i know not what strange anguish at this all-important moment1 blanch those human faces1 to which the choicest wines of ,greece and ,italy had just given a hue of purple4 ,these men feel--instinct tells them--that life is theirs no longer1 and they have not the courage to die6 ,the opulent freed-man calls to his slaves1 and promises them their liberty if they consent to risk their lives in an attempt to save his4 ,but the vile herd is already dispersed2 the porter alone remains--for no one has thought to liberate him--and he1 in his impotent fury1 replies by insulting clamours to the cowardly supplications of his quondam master4 ,this horrible scene soon changed by the very action of that torrent of fire which was pursuing its devastating course2 and the next day1 when ,aurora appeared1 a heap of ruins was all that remained of the odious ,seba's magnificent palace4 ,the two consuls and some of the senators were fortunate enough to escape the common danger4 ,less besotted1 perhaps1 by the wine and good cheer1 and finding in despair that incredible energy which sometimes operates the same prodigies as courage1 they rushed through the flames1 and gained the country1 or those obscure portions of the city which the son of ,agrippina had apparently forgotten4 ,thus it was that ,lucius ,domitius ,nero celebrated the tenth anniversary of his glorious reign4 ,while the fire was rolling on with its resistless flood of flame from temples to palaces1 and from the ,circus to the ,pantheon1 the young1 poetic ,csar1 his brow bound with laurel1 and holding in his hands a golden lyre1 viewed from the top of a tower--where he was surrounded by a troop of histrions and buffoons--the conflagration he had just kindled4 ,and while the imperial ,apollo sang some melancholy verses on the fatal destiny of the antique city of ,troy1 his ignoble courtiers cried with enthusiasm3 8,may the ,gods preserve ,nero1 their august son1 and the delight of the human race60 ,such was the last gorgeous feast at which the magiric genius presided in that ,rome which ,romulus had founded1 and which engulfed the treasures and wonders of the world4 ,destroyed by the imperial incendiary1 it arose from its ashes with increased beauty and voluptuousness2 and the wild joy of its new banquets caused the thoughtless queen of nations quickly to forget the disasters of the past1 and the sinistrous presages of the future4 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #cb4 ,,nero4 ,,heliogabalus4 ,,biographical ,,notes4 ,,nero4 ,lucius ,domitius ,nero's father was ,caius ,domitius nobarbus2 ,agrippina was his mother4 ,he took the reins of the empire at the age of eighteen 7,a4,d4 #ed71 and governed at first with clemency and equity4 ,the ,roman people1 transported with love for their young prince1 indulged the fond hope of long and unalloyed felicity2 but they were soon aroused from this delusion to a sense of the dire reality4 ,nero had forgotten himself in the path of virtue2 he rallied by trying his hand at crime1 and found at last his true vocation4 ,others have recounted his detestable infamies3 we will merely remind our readers that he poisoned ,britannicus1--that he caused his mother to be slain1--that he killed his wife ,octavia by kicking her1--and that ,seneca1 his preceptor1 only escaped his cruelty by having his veins opened4 ,in the year #fd he took it into his head to set fire to the city of ,rome1 and then accused the ,christians of that prodigious atrocity4 ,language cannot describe the unbridled luxury of this ignominious emperor4 ,his gilded house1 his ivory ceilings1 his murrhine vases1 the nets of gold and scarlet with which he fished1 the incalculable profusion of his repasts--everything connected with ,nero betrayed a species of pompous monomania1 leading to excesses so immeasurable and abominable that in these days they excite doubt or incredulity4 ,the entire world detested the monster4 ,galba and the ,roman army revolted against him1 and the pusillanimous ,csar fled bare-footed1 and wrapped in a sordid robe4 ,but1 alarmed at the idea of the tortures he would have to undergo if he fell alive into the hands of the cohorts and the people1 and finding no executioner more infamous than himself1 he plunged a sword timidly into his breast1 while a freed-man1 ,epaphroditus1 guided his trembling hand4 ,this happy event happened in the year #fh4 ,nero had reigned thirteen years6 ,this prince sat down to table at mid-day1 and did not quit it till midnight 7,sueton4 in ,neron4 #bg71--;he had reservoirs stocked with the most rare and exquisite fish1--and he gave to his boon companions suppers which vied in delicacy with their astonishing magnificence4 ,let this1 then1 plead our excuse for having classed the cruel but epicurean ,csar among the high culinary notabilities whose names1 glory1 or excesses we record in this work4 ,,heliogabalus4 ,heliogabalus 7,marcus ,aurelius ,antoninus ,verus71 son of ,antoninus ,caracalla and ,semiamira1 immortalised himself by his follies1 and merited the name of the ,sardanapalus of ,rome4 ,his grandmother1 ,msa1 had a fancy to have him invested with the functions of ,priest of the ,sun1 and the following year 7#bah7 the army elected him to succeed ,macrinus4 ,he was then only fourteen years old4 ,it would be impossible to give a complete catalogue of the crimes which stained this precocious monster4 ,his luxury knew no bounds1 and his insatiable gluttony led him to send into distant provinces for rare birds1 unknown in ,italy4 ,the golden lamps of his palace were supplied with a precious balm1 and scented waters of exquisite delicacy were daily renewed in the vast piscina of this beardless ,csar4 ,his beds were adorned with coverlets of a cloth of gold1 and in his kitchens none but skilfully chased silver utensils were employed4 ,it is said that ,heliogabalus invented after-dinner lotteries3 his guests took the tickets at random1 and fate gave to one some vase of inestimable value1 to another a simple toothpick2 a fortunate adventurer would receive for his allotment ten elephants1 richly caparisoned1 and his less lucky neighbour had to content himself with ten flies1 and loud bursts of laughter from the imperial stripling4 ,thank ,heaven6 this frightful phenomenon of turpitude and folly never attained manhood4 ,the soldiers of his guard massacred him after a reign of something less than four years1 and threw to the populace the dead body of a young man of eighteen1 who1 in the course of his brief existence1 had exhausted the treasures of the empire1 and enlarged the sphere of every crime4 ,the gastronomic art is1 however1 indebted to the odious ,heliogabalus for some useful discoveries1 and for that reason alone is he here mentioned4 ,,epicurus4 ,epicurus--born #ccg years ,b4,c41 in the market-town of ,gargettus1 near ,athens--taught in his gardens a system of philosophy1 which1 though indulgent towards the requirements of the senses1 possessed the merit of a sovereign disdain for every kind of superstition4 ,epicurus had a great number of disciples among the ancient pagans1 and the sensual philosophy of modern times hails him as a patron4 ,at this very day the dainty livers rally under the joyous banner of the moralist of ,gargettus1 and his cherished shade inspires the guests and presides over the soothing intoxication of banquets4 ,,modern ,,banquets4,e ,we have endeavoured to describe in the preceding pages some of those antique entertainments1 which seem to be the summum bonum of the gigantic power of those shameless dominators of the ,roman empire1 whose reigns might be counted as so many banquets1 and for whom the entire world was transformed into one vast market4 ,we are reduced to despair when we attempt to depict such sensualism1 and we also despair of inspiring belief4 ,when one goes back into those old pagan times1--when one shuts out the world as it is1 to evoke the manners and customs of days gone by1 and breathe in their atmosphere1--the mind experiences a sort of stupefaction1 so much is it immersed in the senses1 so thick is the moral darkness1 so low has man fallen6 ,and1 as if it had been decreed that everything should concur to consummate the annihilation of the human species1 on the one hand1 almost the whole family of man was1 for the first time since their dispersion1 collected into one body under the ,roman domination1 which spread its corruption throughout the several members2 while1 on the other hand1 the hordes of barbarians who pressed round--like ferocious beasts waiting till the arena opened--were about to over-run the earth1 in the absence of any civilising element that could interpose to stay the destruction1 by snatching the conquered from the hands of victory1 and the conquerors themselves from their own ferocity4 ,it belongs not to us to portray this fearful cataclysm1 this sudden transition from the development of all the arts which perpetuate the enjoyments of life to the profound ignorance1 the savage rudeness1 which the northern conquerors imposed on enslaved ,europe4 ,the fifth was the last century of ,rome4 ,it was then that barbarism became everywhere victorious4 ,the ,vandals were masters of ,africa1 the ,lombards of ,italy1 the ,visigoths of ,spain1 the ,franks of ,gaul4 ,literature followed the destiny of the empire1 and seemed to perish at the same time4 ,it is1 however1 impossible for nations not to receive1 as an inheritance from people civilised before themselves1 a great part of their intellectual cultivation4 ,happily modern ,europe was swayed by this law3 the barbarians reduced ,rome by the force of arms1--,rome triumphed in the long run over the barbarians by the genius of civilisation and her arts4 ,it is known that even after the introduction of vulgar idioms1 the learned of the middle ages continued the use of ,latin1 and that in the #aeth century that beautiful language1 purified from barbarian corruptions1 became once more classic1 particularly in ,italy4 ,at that epoch1 an obscure inhabitant of ,mentz1 ,john ,guttenberg1 immortalised himself by the discovery of printing1 just as the love of antiquity was causing the old literary masterpieces to be sought out1 and creating a demand for copies of the manuscripts4 ,then1 as if they had risen from their tombs after a thousand years of forgetfulness1 all the writers of antiquity re-appeared1 to charm1 instruct1 and renovate the world4 ,it was the era of regeneration1 when you1 ,o1 beloved masters6 ,pliny1 ,apicius1 ,petronius1 ,athenus1--and you1 ingenuous and faithful chroniclers of the gastronomic follies of the people-king1--were resuscitated in all your glory6 ,others instructed the universe in philosophy1 eloquence1 and history1--you taught man how the ancients dined2 and1 thanks to your lessons1 our fathers began to comprehend that1 since the table is the great scene of life where bonds of friendship are formed and cemented1 banqueting is indispensable to the prosperity of nations4 ,no one will accuse us1 we hope1 of endeavouring to establish a paradox for which we could hardly find an excuse1 in our love of the culinary art1 as long experience1 and public facts within the memory of all1 victoriously confirm our assertion4 ,let us interrogate the #aith century4 ,hardly had the lamentable wars which divided the nations of ,europe ceased1--hardly had the vibration of the last cannon-shot died away1--when the people of every clime--too long disunited--sealed by fraternal banquets their tardy but frank reconciliation4 ,the destructive genius of war is succeeded by those grand struggles of commerce and industry1 which1 aided by the arts and sciences of civilisation1 dispense to all the blessing of reproductive wealth4 ,and then dinner is the sine qu non1--to that goal all our efforts tend4 ,the ,englishman dines in ,paris1 the ,frenchman dines in ,london2 the time-honoured national dishes become cosmopolite1 like those who dwell on the banks of the ,thames or the ,seine2 on both sides the people are proud to communicate the arcana of those delicate preparations1 which have only to cross the frontier to obtain1 under a favourable sky1 a more ample illustration and a new right of citizenship4 ,appetite1 the roasting-jack1--in a word1 gastronomy1 serves perhaps to unite men much more firmly than motives of interest2 and more than one thought useful to the human species has often originated in the midst of the creative excitement of a banquet1 where1 to say the least1 we meet with that hearty goodwill and friendly aid which might be wanting elsewhere4 ,shall we mention that prodigious enterprise with which a noble prince--the enlightened protector of industry and the arts1 and so worthy of our love and respect--has deigned to couple a name dear to public gratitude8 ,the royal plan was nothing less than this3 to erect an immense1 costly1 and sumptuous palace1 in which each nation should deposit the material proofs of its intelligence4 ,neither ,rome nor ,greece ever conceived such a thought6 ,louis ,,xiv41 with all his magnificence1 and the magic pomp of his reign1 imagined nothing equal to it6 ,this great and complex idea struck many persons no doubt with surprise2 but ,england--we must do her the justice which facts prove to be her due--is always ready to undertake impossibilities1 and generally performs them4 ,however1 it was necessary to bring together a certain number of influential1 scientific1 patriotic1 and wealthy men1 and obtain their co-operation to realise that modern arch of crystal1 into which the industry of the world would be summoned to send its most marvellous productions4 ,banquets were proposed1 and banquets took place1 in honour of a prince who was about to connect all parts of the globe in the bands of commercial fraternity4 ,the ,lord ,mayor of the city of ,london--that celebrated factory of the world's trade6--invited all the mayors of the three kingdoms to come and place themselves by the side of the august spouse of their sovereign1 at a feast worthy of such guests by its delicate profusion and splendid magnificence4 ,there his ,royal ,highness ,prince ,albert received the enthusiastic assurance of the realisation of a colossal project1 a philanthropic thought1--the union of nations1 by rousing the noble pride of their nationality6 ,in their turn1 the mayors of ,great ,britain and ,ireland were desirous of offering to the ,lord ,mayor of the city of ,london a banquet1 at which his ,royal ,highness would be present2 and this feast1 a grandiose and sympathetic demonstration on the part of the votaries of the memorable ,london ,exhibition1 took place the #beth ,october1 #ahej1 in the gothic ,guildhall of ,york1 where remembrance of the past was blended with hopes for the future4 ,it was resolved to intrust us with the direction of the gastronomic department1 and1 let us add1 the artistic arrangement of that banquet1 which1 by reason of its unprecedented richness and truly magic aspect1 no pen can describe1 owing partly to the magnificence of the maces1 swords1 banners1 c41 of each county being for the first time displayed under the same roof4 ,the engraving which we present to our readers,f will perhaps convey an idea of a portion of the splendour of the entertainment4 ,the guests at the royal table consisted of the following distinguished personages3 ,the ,lord ,mayor of ,york being in the chair1 there were seated on his right his ,royal ,highness ,prince ,albert1 his ,grace the ,archbishop of ,york1 ,earl ,fitzwilliam1 ,lord ,john ,russell1 ,earl ,minto1 ,lord ,overstone1 ,lord ,beaumont1 and the ,right ,honourable ,sir ,charles ,wood4 ,on his ,lordship's left were the ,lord ,mayor of ,london1 the ,marquis of ,clanricarde1 the ,earl of ,carlisle1 the ,earl of ,abercorn1 ,lord ,feversham1 the ,earl ,granville1 the ,high ,sheriff of ,yorkshire1 the ,right ,honourable ,sir ,g4 ,grey1 ,bart41 and ,sir ,j4 ,v4 ,johnstone1 ,bart4 ,as this table formed a prominent feature in the entertainment1 the following distinct bill of fare was provided3-- ,,bill ,,of ,,fare ,,for ,,the ,,royal ,,table4 ,,first ,,course4 ,sidenote3 ,rissolettes la ,pompadour4 ,sidenote3 ,rissolettes la ,pompadour4 ,trois ,potages4 ,trois ,poissons4 ,potage la ,victoria4 ,turbot la ,mazarine4 ,id4 la ,prince of ,wales4 ,rougets l',italienne ,blanche4 ,id4 ,tortue ,transparente4 ,john ,dory la ,marinire4 ,trois ,relevs4 ,l',extravagance ,culinaire l',alderman4,g ,chapons la ,nelson4 ,quartier d',agneau de ,maison la ,svign4 ,sidenote3 ,venison4 ,sidenote3 ,venison4 ,quatre ,flancs4 ,timballe de ,riz la ,royale4 ,jambon la ,york4 ,vol au vent la ,talleyrand4 ,cannetons ,canaris1 ,macdoine de ,lgumes4 ,six ,entres4 ,saut de ,faisans au fumet de ,gibier4 ,blancs de ,volaille la ,york ,minster4 ,turbans de ,quenelles de ,lapereaux aux ,truffes4 ,ctelettes de ,mouton la ,rforme4 ,riz de ,veau la ,palestine4 ,filets de ,canneton la ,sville4 ,,second ,,course4 ,trois ,rtis4 ,paon l'ancienne ,rome garni d',ortolans4 ,bcasses aux ,feuilles de ,cleri4 ,guillents des ,ardennes4 ,dix ,entremets4 ,crme de la ,grande ,bretagne la ,victoria4 ,galantine d',oisons la ,volire4 ,gele de ,fraises ,franaises la ,fontainebleau4 ,mireton de ,homard4 ,tartelettes pralines aux cerises de ,montmorency4 ,crme de la ,grande ,bretagne l',albert4 ,salade de ,grouse la ,soyer4 ,chartreuse de ,fruits aux ,pches4 ,gteaux crmants la ,duke of ,york4 ,rocailles aux ,hutres gratines l',ostend4 sidenote3 ,lgumes la ,franaise4 ,petite ,pois ,verts4 sidenotnote3 ,lgumes la ,franaise4 ,grosses ,asperges l',amricaine4 ,trois ,relevs4 ,hure de ,sanglier l',allemande en ,surprise4 ,jambon ,croquant aux ,abricots4 ,panir de ,fruit glac la ,lady ,mayoress4 ,dessert ,floral la ,watteau4 ,raisins de ,fontainebleau4 ,fraises des bois ,franaises4 ,pches de ,montreuil4 ,ananas4 ,raisins ,muscats4 ,melons4 ,bananas4 ,compote de ,chaumontelle4 ,illustration3 ,pl4 #cc4 ,york ,banquet ,,general ,,bill ,,of ,,fare ,,for #bdh ,,guests4 ,,first ,,course4 ,trente-deux ,potages4 ,quatre ,potages la ,victoria4 ,quatre ,id4 la ,prince of ,wales4 ,huit ,potages la ,tortue ,transparente4 ,seize ,id4 la ,moderne4 ,trente-deux ,poissons4 ,huit ,turbots la ,mazarin4 ,huit ,truites ,saumones la ,marinire4 ,huit ,filets de ,merlans la ,crme4 ,huit ,crimp ,cod aux ,hutres4 ,trente-deux ,releves4 ,six ,chapons la ,nelson4 ,six ,saddleback de ,mouton ,gallois4 ,quatre ,aloyaux de ,buf au ,raifort4 ,six ,haunches de ,venaison4 ,six ,quartiers d',agneau de ,maison la ,svign4 ,quatre ,dindonneaux en ,diadme4 ,trente-deux ,flancs4 ,huit ,jambons la ,york4 ,huit ,poulardes la ,russe4 ,huit ,timballes de ,riz la ,royale4 ,huit ,pts chauds la ,westphalienne4 ,quarante-huit ,entres4 ,huit ,sauts de ,faisans au fumet de ,gibier aux ,truffes4 ,huit de ,ctelettes de ,mouton la ,vicomtesse4 ,huit de ,blancs de ,volaille la ,york ,minster4 ,huit de ,riz de ,veau la ,palestine4 ,huit de ,rissolettes de ,volaille la ,pompadour4 ,huit de ,salmi de ,gibier la ,chasseur4 ,,second ,,course4 ,quarante ,rtis4 ,huit de ,perdreaux aux feuilles de ,cleri4 ,huit de ,faisans bards au ,cresson4 ,six de ,cannetons au jus d',oranges4 ,six de ,grouses l',ecossaise4 ,six de ,levreaux au jus de ,groseilles4 ,six de ,bcasses et ,bcassines au jus4 ,cent ,entremets4 ,dix ,chartreuses de ,pches4 ,dix ,geles de fraises ,franaises la ,fontainebleau4 ,dix ,salades de ,grouses la ,soyer4 ,dix ,galantines ,aspiques la ,volire4 ,dix ,crmes transparentes au ,kirchenwasser4 ,dix ,crevettes au ,vin de ,champagne4 ,dix ,gteaux crmants la ,duke of ,york4 ,dix ,petites ,macdoines de fruit cristallise4 ,dix ,mirotons de ,homard aux ,olives4 ,dix ,tartelettes prlines aux ,cerises de ,montmorency4 ,vingt ,releves4 ,dix paniers de ,fruits ,glacs la ,lady ,mayoress4 ,dix ,jambons en ,surprise l',ananas4 ,side ,table--,vegetables4 ,cleri la ,crme4 ,choux ,fleurs au beurre4 ,haricots ,verts4 ,choux de ,bruxelles4 ,cleri la ,crme4 ,choux ,fleurs au beurre4 ,sea ,kale4 ,choux de ,bruxelles4 ,grand ,dessert ,floral la ,watteau4 ,l',extravagance ,culinaire l',alderman1 or the ,one ,hundred ,guinea ,dish4--,the opportunity of producing some gastronomic phenomenon for the royal table on such an occasion as the ,york ,banquet was irresistible2 accordingly1 the following choice morsels were carefully selected from all the birds mentioned in the general bill of fare1 to form a dish of delicacies worthy of his ,royal ,highness and the noble guests around him4 ,the extravagance of this dish1 valued at one hundred guineas1 is accounted for1 by supposing1 that if an epicure were to order a similar one for a small party1 he would be obliged to provide the undermentioned articles1 viz43 ,at the cost of s4 d4 #e ,turtle heads1 part of fins1 and green fat #cd #j #j #bd ,capons1 the two small noix 7nuts7 from each side of the middle of the back only used1 being the most delicate part of every bird #h #h #j #ah ,turkeys1 the same #h #ab #j #ah ,fatted pullets1 the same #e #ag #j #af ,fowls1 the same #b #h #j #aj ,grouse #b #e #j #bj ,pheasants1 noix only #c #j #j #de ,partridges1 the same #c #g #j #f ,plovers1 whole #j #i #j #ajj ,snipes1 noix only #e #j #j #c ,dozen ,quails1 whole #c #j #j #dj ,woodcocks1 noix only #h #j #j #c ,dozen ,pigeons1 the same #j #ad #j #f ,dozen ,larks1 stuffed #j #ae #j ,ortolans from ,belgium #e #j #j ,the garniture1 consisting of cockscombs1 truffles1 mushrooms1 crawfish1 olives1 ,american asparagus1 croustades 7paste crust71 sweetbreads1 quenelles de volaille 7strips or slices of fowl71 green mangoes1 and a new sauce #ad #aj #j -------------- #aje #e #j ,in order to present to the reader the striking contrast of extravagance in ancient and modern cookery1 we here give an engraving of the celebrated ,roman dish 7,wild ,boar la ,troyenne7 described in page #ahe4 ,it appears to have been one of those extraordinary efforts of genius which the artist could only produce under the sanction of a lavish patron4 ,it was a veritable tour-de-force1 and1 no doubt deserved the commendation it received1 not only because it was of colossal size1 and the good taste displayed1 but also on account of the various culinary delicacies of which it was composed4 ,we have no account of the cost of such a dish1 but1 judging from the excessive prices given in ancient times for all recherch articles at the tables of the great1 it must have been enormous4 ,we will now resume our description of the ,york ,banquet4 ,in front of the ,illustration3 ,pl4 #cd4 ,,wild ,,boar ,a ,,la ,,troyenne4 ,,extravagance ,,culinaire ,a ,l ,,alderman ,illustration3 ,pl4 #ce ,,lord ,,mayor ,,of ,,york',s ,,cup4 ,,his ,,royal ,,highness ,,prince ,,albert',s ,,cup4 ,,lord ,,mayor ,,of ,,london',s ,,cup4 principal table1 on a raised platform1 covered with purple cloth1 was a collection of maces1 swords1 c41 estimated by competent judges to be worth #ab1jjj4 ,the most conspicuous ornament was placed immediately behind the great circular table2 it was designed by the author1 and is represented in the accompanying engraving4 ,it consisted of a large emblematic vase1 twenty feet in height1 painted and modelled by ,mr4 ,alfred ,adams4 ,around the base are ,europe1 ,asia1 ,africa1 and ,america1 presenting specimens of industry to ,britannia4 ,from the centre of the base springs a palm tree1 surrounded by the arms of the cities of ,london and ,york2 medallion portraits of her ,majesty and ,prince ,albert1 encircled by the shields of the principal cities and towns of the ,united ,kingdom1 form the body of the vase2 two figures of ,ireland and ,scotland the handles2 the ,prince of ,wales's emblem the neck1 and the royal arms the apex4 ,appended were graceful wreaths of flowers1 in which the symbols of the ,houses of ,york and ,lancaster 7red and white roses7 predominated2 and when a brilliant flood of gaslight1 aided by powerful reflectors1 was thrown upon this splendid decoration1 the effect was truly magnificent4 ,having illustrated this volume with a murrhine vase1 belonging to the ,house of ,brunswick1 and a curiously worked crystal cup1 as gems of ancient production1 we give here1 as modern works of art1 an engraving representing three superb drinking cups1--one for his ,royal ,highness ,prince ,albert1 and one each for the ,lord ,mayors of ,london and ,york3 the first is in ruby glass1 a portion of the stem and base internally checquered with silver1 and on the sides bearing white sunken medallions of her ,majesty and the ,prince ,consort1 and the royal arms of ,england4 ,the other two cups were of the same size and shape1 but1 instead of being ruby and silver1 the colours were emerald and silver2 and on the sides were the private arms of each of the ,lord ,mayors1 together with the usual heraldic emblazonments of the cities of ,london and ,york respectively4 ,they were presented by the author of this work in the name of the ,patent ,silvered-,glass ,company4 ,this banquet was of so interesting a nature1 that we could not omit giving some particulars of it in this work2 at all events1 the pomp and splendour of modern times1 as far as banqueting is concerned1 must prove that--from the ,greeks and ,romans1 down to the middle ages--we have not been exceeded1 except1 perhaps1 in waste and extravagance4 ,the national entertainments given within the last fifty years1 to commemorate striking events1 are too fresh in our memory to pass them in silence4 ,many persons can still remember the coronation of the ,emperor ,napoleon in #ahje4 ,on that occasion a grand banquet was given to all the dignitaries of the ,empire and their ladies1 nothing being omitted that was calculated to solemnise with sumptuosity such an event4 ,in #ahaj the city of ,paris offered to ,napoleon and ,maria-,louisa 7,archduchess of ,austria7 a banquet as extraordinary as it was costly4 ,a semicircular gallery of the ,corinthian order was erected on the whole square of the ,htel-de-,ville1 where above a thousand guests joined the festival4 ,in #ahae a magnificent entertainment was given to the allied sovereigns by the city of ,london1 where richness of decoration1 massive gold and silver plate1 and profusion of culinary rarities struck the beholder with wonder4 ,at the ,coronation ,banquet of ,george ,,iv41 in #ahbj1 the old customs and privileges were ransacked to give clat to that solemnity1 one of the grandest1 and perhaps1 the most sumptuous that ever could he imagined in ancient or modern times4 ,in ,france1 in the year #ahbd1 the coronation of ,charles ,x4 was celebrated at ,rheims with royal magnificence2 the banquet excited the admiration of all present4 ,at that solemnity the ,duke of ,northumberland was appointed ,ambassador ,extraordinary from ,england1 and few1 if any1 ever equalled the liberality of his ,grace1 or the display he made of his wealth1 to represent and honour his sovereign and country at the court of ,charles ,x4 ,the ftes and banquets given by his ,grace--and at which the author was present--were of the most costly if not extravagant description1 for we are told that the expenses of that munificent nobleman were not less than #bjj1jjj4 ,the grand banquets and receptions of ,king ,louis ,philippe during eighteen years exhibited too much liberality and splendour to be forgotten2 and at the marriage of his eldest son1 the unfortunate ,duke of ,orleans1 ,versailles presented a scene of banqueting and rejoicing unparalleled since the time of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,on her ,majesty's visit to the city of ,london a banquet was given in the ,guildhall1 the grandeur of which was scarcely ever exceeded1 showing the loyalty1 devotedness1 and noble hospitality of the wealthiest commercial citizens in the world4 ,in #ahch1 at the coronation of ,queen ,victoria1 ,buckingham ,palace witnessed a most elegant1 chaste1 and splendid banquet4 ,the ,ambassadors ,extraordinary1 sent from all the foreign courts1 were not more conspicuous for the brilliancy of their costumes than the native nobility who graced the festive-board of the youthful ,queen of ,great ,britain4 ,on this occasion a very elaborate and graceful fountain of massive gold of about three feet in height and two feet in diameter1 was prominent on the royal table4 ,it spouted four different sorts of delicious wine into as many shells1 from which it dripped into four reservoirs1 and was served to the guests by means of a golden ladle4 ,this fountain can be seen1 with the regalia1 in the ,tower of ,london4 ,on that joyful day the members of the ,reform ,club intrusted to our care1 at ,gwyrdir ,house1 a sumptuous entertainment for fifteen hundred persons1 on a scale of liberality deserving of the highest praise4 ,the marriage of ,her ,majesty with ,h4 ,r4 ,h4 ,prince ,albert formed one of those memorable epochs to be preserved in the annals of banqueting4 ,the opening of the ,royal ,exchange1 in #ahdf1 was also one of those extraordinary days on record1 where the ,queen of a great nation gave proof of her sympathy in the prosperity of her merchant-princes1 by presiding over a splendid entertainment to commemorate the re-establishment of that commercial edifice4 ,on the #crd of ,july in the same year1 his ,highness ,ibrahim ,pacha1 son of ,mehemet ,ali1 ,viceroy of ,egypt1 was entertained by the members of the ,reform ,club to a magnificent and most sumptuous banquet provided for two hundred guests4 ,the author1 having full scope to do honour to the invitation1 provided the following liberal selection of gastronomic dishes1 many of which were innovated for the occasion3-- ,,bill ,,of ,,fare4 ,seize ,potages4 ,quatre la ,victoria4 ,quatre la ,comte de ,paris4 ,quatre la ,louis ,philippe4 ,quatre la ,colbert1 aux ,lgumes ,printaniers4 ,seize ,potages4 ,quatre de ,turbots1 ,sauce la ,mazarin4 ,quatre de ,buissons de ,filets de ,merlans l',egyptienne4 ,quatre de ,saumons de ,severn la ,crme4 ,quatre de ,truites ,saumones en ,matelotte ,marinire4 ,seize ,relves4 ,quatre de ,chapons la ,nelson4 ,quatre de ,saddleback of ,southdown ,mouton1 rti la ,soyer4 ,quatre de ,poulardes en ,diadme4 ,quatre de ,saddleback d',agneau1 rti la ,svign4 ,baron of ,beef l',anglaise4 ,entre ,pagodatique de riz la ,luxor4 ,cinquante-quatre ,entres4 ,six de ,poussins ,printaniers l',ambassadrice4 ,six de ,ctelettes de ,mouton la ,reform4 ,quatre de ,riz de ,veau piqus en ,macdoine de ,lgumes4 ,quatre de ,petits ,vol-au-vents aux ,laitances de ,maquereaux4 ,quatre ,timballes de ,riz aux ,quues d',agneau4 ,quatre de ,jambonneaux ,braiss au ,vin de ,madre4 ,quatre de ,volailles ,farcies la ,russe aux ,lgumes ,verts4 ,quatre de ,ptes ,chauds de ,cailles la ,banquire4 ,quatre de ,rissolettes la ,pompadour4 ,quatre de ,grenadins de ,buf la ,beyrout4 ,six de ,ctelettes d',agneau la ,vicomtesse1 et ,quatre de ,turbans ,epigramme de ,levreau au ,fumet4 ,seize ,rts4 ,quatre de ,turkey ,poult1 ,piqus et ,bards4 ,quatre de ,cannetons au ,jus de ,bigarades4 ,quatre de ,levreaux au ,jus de ,groseilles1 et ,quatre de ,gros ,chapons au ,cresson4 ,cinquante-quatre ,entremots4 ,six de ,geles ,macdoine de ,fruits au ,dantzic4 ,quatre ,turbans de ,meringues ,demi-,glaces4 ,quatre de ,charlotte ,prussienne4 ,six de ,croquantes d',amandes aux ,cerises4 ,quatre de ,galantines la ,volire4 ,quatre de ,mirotons de ,homard l',indienne4 ,quatre de ,salades de ,volaille la ,soyer4 ,quatre de ,haricots ,verts au ,beurre ,noisette4 ,six de ,tartelettes ,prlines aux ,abricots4 ,quatre de ,pain de ,pches au ,noyeau4 ,quatre de ,petite ,pois l',anglo-,francaise1 et ,quatre de ,geles ,cristallises l',ananas4 ,relevs de ,rts4 ,crme d',egypte l',ibrahim ,pacha4 ,gteau ,britannique l',amiral4 ,quatre de ,jambons ,glacs en ,surprise4 ,quatre de ,ctelettes en ,surprise la ,reform4 ,quatre de ,manivaux de ,champignons au ,curaao en ,surprise4 ,deux de ,meringues ,chinoises-,pagoda aux ,fraises4 ,we hardly need mention the annual entertainment which takes place on the #ith of ,november1 when the city of ,london makes a king of a citizen4 ,in the course of the year #ahdd1 ,king ,louis ,philippe paid a visit to her ,majesty ,queen ,victoria at ,windsor ,castle1 and during the time a series of banquets were given in honour of the ,king's visit by her ,majesty4 ,the gold plate--worth1 it is said1 a million sterling--was used on that occasion4 ,we shall not attempt to describe the extraordinary beauty of that service3 the value in itself must leave the impression that nothing like it is in existence4 ,in the year #ahdh the return of ,lord ,hardinge1 ,governor-,general of ,india1 from his glorious campaigns in the ,east1 was solemnised by a sumptuous banquet offered to his lordship by the members of the ,carlton ,club4 ,in the year #ahej the annual meeting of the ,royal ,agricultural ,society was held in the fine old city of ,exeter1 where the ,society was welcomed with the most enthusiastic rejoicings1 and we had the honour of being selected by the committee to provide a dinner for one thousand and fifty members4 ,as this rustic banquet was admitted to be one of no ordinary kind we give here the general bill of fare1 and a short narrative of the first attempt to roast a whole ox by gas4 ,,grand ,,agricultural ,,pavilion ,,dinner4 ,sidenote3 ,baron of ,beef la ,magna ,charta4 #cc ,dishes of ,ribs of ,beef4 #ce ,dishes of ,roast ,lamb4 #ii ,dishes of ,galantine of ,veal4 #bi ,dishes of ,ham4 #ff ,dishes of ,pressed ,beef4 #b ,rounds of ,beef la ,garrick4 #bfd ,dishes of ,chicken4 #cc ,french raised ,pies la ,soyer4 #aih ,spring ,mayonnaise ,salad4 #bfd ,cherry1 ,gooseberry1 ,raspberry1 and ,currant ,tarts4 #cc ,exeter ,puddings4 #aih ,dishes of ,hot ,potatoes4 ,sidenote3 ,grand ,agricultural ,trophy4 ,homer tells us that a royal culinary artist placed before ,ajax and his voracious companions in arms a whole bullock roasted4 ,since those heroic ages many no doubt have shared the same fate2 and we know that in this country1 on the occasion of a rich heir coming of age1 a roasted ox is often given to the tenants as a substantial fare1 with a well-nursed butt of ale1 twenty-one years old4 ,many can remember that in the winter of #ahab a bullock was roasted on the frozen ,thames1 which certainly was something to wonder at4 ,another monster effort was attempted at ,hammersmith some years ago1 but the animal1 clumsily suspended from the summit of an apparatus formed of three beams1 was burnt1 emitted a rank smell1 and did not roast4 ,all those who have had to attend such an operation agree that it is rather an awkward affair1 and not performed without great difficulties1 on account of the immense fire1 which requires constant attention to keep up and regulate the necessary heat1--and1 after all1 it is seldom entirely successful4 ,for the present festival1 the author1 who knew well the power and efficacy of gas1 wished to honour the guests with a dish of his own1 never yet attempted1 and which he has entitled the 8,baron and ,saddleback of ,beef la ,magna ,charta40 ,he therefore proposed to roast a baron and saddleback of beef1 weighing five hundred and thirty-five pounds1 in the open air4 ,the magistrates very willingly put the castle yard at his disposal1 and it was anticipated that a large ,pandemonium fire would have been seen2 but1 to the surprise of every one1 a few bricks1 without mortar1 and a few sheets of iron1 forming a temporary covering to a space six feet six inches in length1 and three feet three inches in width1 were the only appearance of an apparatus1 with two hundred and sixteen very small jets of gas coming through pipes half-an-inch in diameter4 ,it was hardly credited that such a monster joint could be properly done by such means2 however1 incredulity soon vanished on seeing it frizzling and steaming away2 and after eight hours' roasting it was thoroughly dressed1 at a cost of less than five shillings for gas4 ,after having allowed it to cool it was removed1 and carried by eight men through the principal streets of the ancient and loyal city of ,exeter1 accompanied by a band of music1 playing 8,the ,roast ,beef of ,old ,england10 and followed by thousands of the incredulous of the previous day4 ,on its arrival at the pavilion it was deposited under the grand triumphal arch1 designed and erected by the author2 it was #ag feet high1 and #aj feet wide1 and composed of all the produce of agriculture and the farm4 ,the following list will give some idea of its magnitude3 it consisted of-- ,one swan1 two turkeys1 four geese1 four ducks1 eight fowls1 eight pigeons1 four rabbits1 one fine barn-door cock1 six ox heads1 four calves' heads1 two rams' heads1 two stags' heads1 two whole lambs--all natural1 and in their plumage or skin--ornamented with vegetables1 fruit1 and flowers1 viz41 cabbages1 turnips1 potatoes1 carrots1 leeks1 celery1 rhubarb1 onions1 ,french beans1 peas1 asparagus1 sea-kale stalks2 sheaves of wheat1 oats1 barley2 pine apples1 citrons1 cherries1 grapes1 melons1 peaches1 apricots1 greengages1 apples1 gooseberries1 strawberries1 currants1 and the choicest kinds of flowers--all being the production of the county--and surmounted by various implements of agriculture4 ,there was also an elegant jug1 ornamented with flowers1 filled with clotted cream4 ,on the top of the huge piece of beef1 was placed a black pig's head1 weighing eighty pounds when killed4 ,it was in the recollection of many persons1 that thirty-five years ago a baron of beef1 weighing only two hundred and forty-two pounds was roasted in ,exeter1 under the superintendence of twelve blacksmiths1 at their forge fire1 for a banquet given at the time peace was proclaimed4 ,the ,parisians have not forgotten the great fte of the distribution of eagles by his ,majesty the ,emperor of the ,french1 on that day when he relinquished the functions of ,president of the ,republic for a more august title4 ,that military solemnity was followed by a splendid banquet1 at which there were several thousands of guests4 ,it would be superfluous to add1 that the arrangements for that gigantic repast evinced the intelligent taste and incredible resources of imagination of our continental neighbours4 ,an entire volume would not suffice1 if we attempted to recount all the pompous feasts which followed in succession during the last century1 8the age of powder and suppers40 ,but we cannot pass in silence the memorable punch given in #agdf by ,sir ,edward ,russell1 ,commander-in-,chief of the ,british forces1 which can only be assimilated in point of extravagance to the great banquet of the ,earl of ,warwick1 the description of which was extracted from the 8,gastronomic ,regenerator10 and reproduced in this work1 page #cfb4 ,the bowl was the marble basin of a delightful garden1 forming the central point of four vast avenues1 bordered with orange and lemon trees4 ,a magnificent collation was served on four immense tables1 which occupied the whole length of the several avenues4 ,the basin had been filled with four large barrels of brandy1 eight barrels of filtered water1 twenty-five thousand citrons1 eighty pints of lemon juice1 thirteen hundred weight of sugar1 five pounds of nutmeg1 three hundred biscuits1 and a pipe of ,malaga wine4 ,an awning over the basin protected it from rain1 which might have disturbed the chemical combination of the delicious beverage2 and1 in a charming little rose-wood boat1 a cabin boy1 belonging to the fleet1 rowed about on the surface of the punch1 ready to serve the joyous company1 which numbered more than six thousand persons4,h ,we cannot terminate this rapid sketch1 without mentioning that1 after several years of research in compiling this work1 we completed our task on the day following that on which her ,most ,gracious ,majesty the ,queen of ,england offered the largest royal banquet since her accession to the throne1 to an assembly of kings1 queens1 and princes1 and the flower of the ,british aristocracy1 consisting of a hundred and twenty guests1 on the occasion of the baptism of his ,royal ,highness ,prince ,leopold ,george ,duncan ,albert4 ,this regal entertainment took place on the #bhth of ,june1 and never1 perhaps1 did the august sovereign display so much magnificence and majesty4 ,we shall not publish the details of this imposing banquet2 and1 moreover1 we should inform our readers of nothing new1 were we to tell them of the artistical selection1 execution1 and perfection of the bill of fare1--of the richness of the ornaments and service1--of the royal and feminine gracefulness of the mother1 wife1 and queen4 8,may ,heaven grant10 say we1 in the words of the immortal ,bossuet1 8that the children of this illustrious princess1 like a crown of olive saplings1 may cling round her1 and grow in virtue1 strength1 and renown2 may the ,ruler of empires throw a halo round the destiny of the august mother1 and show to all that ,his mighty hand upholds thrones and protects kings60 ,,footnotes3 ,a ,this lemon-tree wood was a species more precious and more beautiful than that which we now possess4 ,b ,see ,plate ,,xxviii41 p4 #cgh1 for the triclinium4 ,c ,cup1 or crater1 used by the ,greeks and ,romans at their repasts1 made either of gold1 silver1 or earthenware 7terra cotta74--,,hamilton1 8,herculaneum40 ,d ,see ,plate ,,xxx41 ,no4 #d4 ,e ,the following descriptions of various banquets and bills of fare are here introduced1 in the anticipation that in after years they may prove interesting1 and induce1 for the future1 culinary artists to enlarge and preserve those magiric archives4 ,f ,for the general illustration of the banquet1 see the 8,illustrated ,london ,news10 of ,november #bnd1 #ahej4 ,g ,see page #djf4 ,h ,while thus hastily enumerating some modern banquets1 we cannot refrain mentioning that illusive feast of the most effeminate of ,assyrian kings1 the plan of which seems to have been imparted by the magiric genius himself to our celebrated tragedian ,charles ,kean4 ,every night1 ,sardanapalus1 the sensual king of the too joyous ,ninevites1 rising from his tomb1 with his twenty-six centuries of renown1 seats himself at table1 in order to unveil to us long buried splendours1 and confirm our belief in those sumptuous orgies of which history preserves to us but uncertain details4 ,the admirable works of ,botta1 ,flandin1 ,layard1 and ,bonomi1 have allowed the ingenious major domo who presides at these ,assyrian feasts of the #aith century1 to invest them with that couleur locale which would formerly have been sought in vain2 and1 should the shade of the voluptuous prince wander amidst the guests seated at his table1 it may still recognise the cup from which he imbibed intoxication and forgetfulness of his tragic destiny4 ,altogether1 this scenic representation appears to us the realisation of an extraordinary dream1 and we have been tempted to place this fictitious repast of ,sardanapalus amongst the modern banquets here called to remembrance4 ,i ,since the above was written1 my researches have been rewarded by success1 and ,i have given a complete description of it in this work4--,see page #bfi4 ,j ,no less than #eb1jjj1 if ,pliny really means the grand sesterce1 which everything leads us to believe4 ,k ,smallage1 a species of parsley1 known by the name of celery1 is diuretic and aperitive4 ,the celery1 as cultivated now1 is derived from the smallage4 ,l ,it is a question whether they could compete in quality with those caught in the ,severn at the present day4 ,m ,this paper did not resemble our own of the present day2 it was a kind of papyrus1 which perfectly resisted all moisture4 ,n ,pie of meat and flour4 ,o ,see ,plate ,no4 ,,xxvii41 ,no4 #d41 a plain bottle1 with a long neck4 ,p ,a pound of honey to three pounds of water4 ,q ,we are not aware that any of our dramatic authors ever gave such proof of generosity after a triumph as did the poet1 ,ion4 ,crowned at ,athens1 after the representation of a tragedy1 he made a present to each ,athenian of a vase filled with wine of ,chios4--8,athen410 ,i41 #e4 ,r ,fat meat1 according to the vulgate4 ,s ,dinner given by the ,earl of ,warwick1 at the installation of an ,archbishop of ,york1 in the year #adgj4 ,t ,imperial1 a gold coin1 current in ,russia4 ,the ,imperial of ten roubles 7#agee7 was worth nearly #b #bs4 #j;d4 ,u ,this lemon-tree wood was a species more precious and more beautiful than that which we now possess4 ,v ,a grand banquet was held by the ,royal ,agricultural ,society1 at ,exeter1 on ,july #bjth1 #ahej1 for description of which see end of volume4 ,w ,apicius composed the nogarum 7or rather eleogarum1 for wine is not mentioned in his recipe7 in the following manner3 bruise1 in a mortar1 pepper1 alisander1 coriander1 and rue2 then add some garum1 honey1 and a little oil4,,ix-#aai ,x ,the word ,ox--,bos--is a general term applied equally by sacred and profane writers to the bull1 ox1 and cow4--,,valla1 lib4 iv41 cap4 #db4 ,it would appear that the castration of bulls originated with the ,greeks1 though they and the ,romans1 their imitators1 saw only in this operation the facility of subduing them1 and accustoming them to the yoke4--,,geoponics1 ,,columella1 ,,pliny1 c4 ,y ,we saw1 in #ahcf1 while at ,colne ,castle1 about one ton weight taken out of the water in a few hours4 ,y ,a sort of wine1 much esteemed4 ,,table ,,of ,,references ,,to ,ancient and ,modern ,writers4 ,i4 ,,agriculture4 ,i-#a ,plutarch4 ,de ,isid4 et ,osirid42 ,ovid4 ,fabul4 lib4 v4 #f1 #g2 ,aurel4 ,vict4 ,de ,orig4 ,gent4 ,roman4 ,i-#b ,genes4 cap4 ii4 #ae4 ,i-#c ,ibid4 cap4 iii4 #bc4 ,i-#d ,cuvier1 ,discours sur les ,rvolutions du ,globe1 #f;e4 dit4 p4 #aga4 ,i-#e ,judic4 cap4 vi4 #aa1 #ad4 ,i-#f ,ruth1 cap4 ii4 #c1 #e4 ,i-#g ,i4 ,samuel1 cap4 xi4 #e4 ,i-#h ,i4 ,reg4 cap4 xix4 #ai4 ,i-#i ,gune1 ,lettres de ,quelques ,juifs1 tom4 iii4 p4 #bc1 edit4 in #abmo4 ,i-#aj ,levitic4 cap4 xxv4 #bc4 ,i-#aa ,diodor4 ,sicul4 lib4 ii4 #c4 ,i-#ab ,aristot4 ,de ,republ4 lib4 ii4 cap4 #g4 ,i-#ac ,levitic4 xxv4 #c1 #f4 ,i-#ad ,mishna1 passim4 ,i-#ae ,exod4 iii4 #h4 ,i-#af ,joseph4 ,de ,bello ,judaic4 lib4 iii4 cap4 #h4 ,i-#ag ,juvenal4 ,sat4 xv4 #aj4 ,i-#ah ,genes4 cap4 xii4 #aj4 ,i-#ai ,ibid4 cap4 xlii4 #a1 #b1 #c4 ,i-#bj ,varro4 ,de ,re ,rustic42 ,plin4 xviii4 #g2 ,plutarch4 ,in ,csar4 ,i-#ba ,plutarch4 ,de ,isid42 ,tibull4 lib4 i4 eleg4 vii4 #bi4 ,i-#bb ,fabretti4 ,inscript4 p4 #egd4 ,i-#bc ,homer4 ,il4 x4 #cea2 ,odyss4 viii4 #abd4 ,i-#bd ,polydor4 ,virgil4 ,i-#be ,plin4 xviii #d4 ,i-#bf ,aul4 ,gell4 i4 #bc4 ,i-#bg ,plin4 iv4 #c2 ,flor4 i4 #b4 ,i-#bh ,flor4 viii4 #c4 ,i-#bi ,columell4 ii4 #e4 ,i-#cj ,ibid4 ii4 #b4 ,i-#ca ,varro4 i4 #bi4 ,i-#cb ,encyclopdie ,mthodique2 ,antiquits ,planches4 ,i-#cc ,cato4 ,de ,re ,rustica1 x4 xi4 ,i-#cd ,strutt1 ,manners and ,customs1 c41 vol4 i4 p4 #cb1 fig4 vii4 ,i-#ce ,plin4 xvii4 #e1 #h4 ,i-#cf ,varro4 i4 #ac1 #ch2 ,columell4 ii4 #e1 #f1 #i4 ,i-#cg ,geoponic4 xii4 #d2 ,virgil4 ,georg4 i4 #ha2 ,plin4 xvii4 #i4 ,i-#ch ,cato4 cap4 xxx42 ,plin4 xviii1 #ec2 ,varro4 ii4 #b4 ,i-#ci ,column4 ,trajan4 tab4 #hc4 ,i-#dj ,passerii ,lucern4 ,fictil4 tab4 #i4 ,i-#da ,gessner4 ii4 tab4 #cb1 no4 #ge4 ,i-#db ,mongez4 ,encyclop4 ,mthod4 ,antiquit4 ,planches4 ,i-#dc ,de ,re ,rustica1 i4 #ej4 ,i-#dd ,virgil4 ,georg4 lib4 iv4 ,i-#de ,plin4 viii4 #cj4 ,i-#df ,columell4 ii4 #ba4 ,i-#dg ,isaias1 xxviii4 #bg4 ,i-#dh ,herculan4 v4 #ie4 ,i-#di ,geoponic4 ii4 #bg1 #ca2 ,plin4 xviii4 #cj2 ,varro4 i4 #eg2 ,columell4 i4 #f4 ,i-#ej ,dioscorid42 ,diodor4 ,sicul42 ,dio4 ,nicus4 ,i-#ea ,id4 ,i-#eb ,strab42 ,plin42 ,strutt1 ,manners1 c41 of the ,ancient ,britons1 vol4 i4 p4 #g4 ,i-#ec ,strutt1 ,ibid4 p4 #dc4 ,i-#ed ,id4 ,ibid4 pp4 #dc1 #dd4 ,i-#ee ,fontan4 tom4 ii4 liv4 iii4 titre #cc1 p4 #aaij4 ,,ii4 ,,cereals4 ,,ii-#a ,tit4 ,liv4 ,decad4 i4 lib4 #a4 ,,ii-#b ,plin4 xviii4 #h4 ,,ii-#c ,cato4 ,r4 ,r4 cap4 #hf4 ,,ii-#d ,virgil4 ,georgic4 i4 #baj4 ,,ii-#e ,,ii4 ,samuel1 cap4 xvii4 #bh4 ,,ii-#f ,sueton4 ,in ,august4 xiv4 ,,ii-#g ,exod4 cap4 ix4 #ca4 ,,ii-#h ,virgil4 ,georgic4 i4 #baf4 ,,ii-#i ,xenophon4 ,de ,expedit4 ,cyri4 lib4 vii42 ,plin4 xviii4 #g4 ,,ii-#aj ,geoponic4 ii4 #ch4 ,,ii-#aa ,plin4 xviii4 #dj4 ,,ii-#ab ,id4 xviii4 #af4 ,,ii-#ac ,dioscorid4 ii4 #af4 ,,ii-#ad ,virgil4 ,georgic4 i4 #aec4 ,,ii-#ae ,plin4 xviii4 #ag4 ,,ii-#af ,id4 xviii4 #g1 #aj4 ,,ii-#ag ,dioscorid4 ii4 #aag4 ,,ii-#ah ,galen4 ,de ,facultat4 ,aliment4 i4 #ag4 ,,ii-#ai ,herodot4 ii4 #cf4 ,,ii-#bj ,dioscorid4 lib4 ii4 cap4 #c2 lib4 iii4 ,,ii-#ba ,plin4 xxii4 #be4 ,,ii-#bb ,id4 ii4 #g4 ,,ii-#bc ,petron4 cap4 i4 ,,ii-#bd ,plaut ,pn4 act4 i4 sc4 #b1 #aab4 ,,ii-#be ,leg4 xii4 ,tabul4 pars ii4 ,l4 ix4 ,,ii-#bf ,ulp4 #ej ,dig4 t4 v4 l4 #b2 ,arc4 ad4 ,charis4 ,d4 #ej1 t4 iv4 l4 #ah1 #e2 ,wolfius1 t4 v4 ,oper4 ,demosth4 f4 #ceh4 ,,ii-#bg ,samuel ,petit4 ,comment4 lib4 v4 tit4 #e4 ,,ii-#bh ,plin4 lib4 xviii4 ,,ii-#bi ,dio4 lib4 xi4 #c2 ,isidor4 lib4 ult4 cap4 #ad4 ,,ii-#cj ,panem et ,circenses4 ,,ii-#ca ,demosth4 ,in ,phorm4 ,,ii-#cb ,plutarch4 ,in ,cat4 ,maj42 ,cic4 in ,verrem4 ,,ii-#cc ,sueton4 ,in ,jul4 ,csar4 cap4 #da4 ,,ii-#cd ,dio ,cassius4 lib4 xliii4 ,,ii-#ce ,id4 lib4 lv4 ,,ii-#cf ,sueton4 ,in ,neron4 cap4 #aj2 ,tacit lib4 xv4 ,,ii-#cg ,spartian4 ,in ,sever42 ,liv4 lib4 ii4 ,,ii-#ch ,socrat4 ii4 #aj1 #ac2 ,sozomen4 iii4 #f4 ,,ii-#ci ,cic4 ,pro ,leg4 ,manil4 ,,ii-#dj ,liv4 lib4 xxxiii42 ,cic4 ,ad ,attic4 ep4 ix4 et seqq42 ,varro4 ,r4 ,r42 ,plin4 xviii4 #g4 ,,ii-#da ,stow's ,chronicles1 p4 #afg4 ,,ii-#db ,fabian4 vol4 ii4 p4 #cj4 ,,iii4 ,,grinding ,,of ,,corn4 ,,iii-#a ,apud ,athenum4 ,,iii-#b ,ovid4 ,fast4 iv4 #cii4 ,,iii-#c ,tibull4 ii4 eleg4 #c4 ,,iii-#d ,pausan4 ,in ,arcad4 ,,iii-#e ,virgil4 ,georg4 iv4 #ha4 ,,iii-#f ,de ,mensura ,cibi4 ,,iii-#g ,lucret4 v4 #ad4 ,,iii-#h ,plin4 vii4 #ea4 ,,iii-#i ,encyclop4 ,mthod4 ,antiquit4 ,planches4 ,,iii-#aj ,varro4 apud ,nonnium4 ,,iii-#aa ,plin4 xviii4 #c4 ,,iii-#ab ,polyb4 i4 #bb4 ,,iii-#ac ,deuteronom4 xxiv4 #f4 ,,iii-#ad ,exod4 xi4 #e4 ,,iii-#ae ,numer4 xi4 #h4 ,,iii-#af ,pausanias1 v4 1 ,histor4 ,laconicor4 ,,iii-#ag ,homer4 ,odyss4 ,,iii-#ah ,id4 ,ibid4 vii4 #aje4 ,,iii-#ai ,plin4 xviii4 #aa4 ,,iii-#bj ,gell4 xxxi4 #c2 ,terent4 ,andr4 act4 i4 sc4 #b4 ,,iii-#ba ,gell4 xiii4 #bb4 ,,iii-#bb ,virg4 ,georg4 i41 et ibi ,servius1 v4 #bfg1 #bgd4 ,,iii-#bc ,ovid4 ,in ,fastis2 ,rosin4 ,antiquit1 ,roman1 iv4 #aj4 ,,iii-#bd ,paschal4 ,coron4 p4 #bfj4 ,,iii-#be ,rosin4 loc4 cit4 ,,iii-#bf ,apul4 ,milesiar4 lib4 ix4 ,,iii-#bg ,terent4 ,andria4 act4 i4 sc4 #b4 ,,iii-#bh ,meursius1 ,criticar4 ,exercitat4 part i4 cap4 #i4 ,,iii-#bi ,id4 ,ibid4 ,,iii-#cj ,gell4 iii4 #c4 ,,iii-#ca ,vitruv4 x4 #aj4 ,,iii-#cb ,plin4 xviii4 #aj4 ,,iii-#cc ,vid4 ,turneb4 ,salmas1 et ,perrault1 section ,vitruve4 ,,iii-#cd ,goetzius1 ,de ,pistrinis ,veterum4 ,,iii-#ce ,strabo1 ,geograph4 ,,iii-#cf ,de ,canone ,frumentar1 ,urb4 ,rom4 ,l4 iv4 ,cassiodor4 ,variar4 iii4 ,,iii-#cg #eth century4 ,,iii-#ch ,decernimus de ,aquductu1 ,l4 x4 ,,iii-#ci ,anno #ecf4 ,,iii-#dj ,procop4 ,de ,bello ,gothico4 i4 #ae4 ,,iii-#da ,vitruv4 x4 #e2 ,schneider2 ,palladius1 ,r4 ,r4 i4 #db4 ,,iii-#db ,plin4 xxxvi4 #cj4 ,,iii-#dc ,odyss4 xx4 #aje1 #aai2 ,cato4 ,r4 ,r4 cap4 #ef4 ,,iii-#dd ,leges ,ethelberti4 ,,iii-#de ,strutt1 ,manners1 c41 vol4 ii41 p4 #ac4 ,,iii-#df ,apud ,strutt1 ibid4 ,,iii-#dg ,ibid4 p4 #ad4 ,,iii-#dh ,heringius4 ,,iii-#di ,monast4 ,anglic4 t4 i4 p4 #caf2 t4 ii4 p4 #dei2 t4 iii4 p4 #ajg4 ,,iv4 ,,manipulation ,,of ,,flour4 ,,iv-#a ,montaigne1 ,essais4 ,,iv-#b ,genes4 xviii4 #f4 ,,iv-#c ,exod4 xii4 #ci4 ,,iv-#d ,reg4 xix4 #f4 ,,iv-#e ,levitic4 vii4 #i4 ,,iv-#f ,calmet4 ,bible1 tom4 vi4 p4 #beg1 fol4 ,,iv-#g ,waserus1 ,de ,antiq4 ,mensuris1 ii4 #e4 ,,iv-#h ,genes4 iii4 #ai42 ,exod4 ii4 #bj2 xviii4 #ab2 et passim4 ,,iv-#i ,calmet4 loc4 cit4 ,,iv-#aj ,fleury1 ,murs des ,isralites1 chap4 #ab4 ,,iv-#aa ,ruth1 ii4 #ad4 ,,iv-#ab ,calmet4 loc4 cit4 ,,iv-#ac ,plin4 xviii4 #aa4 ,,iv-#ad ,exod4 xii4 #ae1 #ag to #bj1 #cd1 #ci4 ,,iv-#ae ,levitic4 vii4 #i4 ,,iv-#af ,genes4 xv4 #ag4 ,,iv-#ag ,levitic4 ii4 #d2 vii4 #i2 xi4 #ce2 xxvi4 #bf2 ,calmet4 ,bible1 tom4 vi4 ,,iv-#ah ,genes4 xl4 #a1 et seqq4 ,,iv-#ai ,cassiodor4 ,variar4 vi42 ,olai ,magni ,hist4 xiii4 #ac2 ,panis a ,pane4 ,,iv-#bj ,cic4 ,pro ,cluentio2 ,isidor4 xx4 #b4 ,,iv-#ba ,patre--,manger4 ,,iv-#bb ,nonnius ,marcellus1 ,de ,prop4 ,sermon4 ,,iv-#bc ,athen4 iii4 #ac4 ,,iv-#bd ,id4 ,ibid4 ,,iv-#be ,id4 ,ibid4 ,,iv-#bf ,id4 ,ibid4 ,,iv-#bg ,,iv-,aristoph4 ,ran4 v4 #hef4 ,,iv-#bh ,galen4 ,de ,aliment4 ,facultat4 lib4 i4 ,,iv-#bi ,athen4 iii4 #bi4 ,,iv-#cj ,cl4 ,rhodig4 xxvi4 ,,iv-#ca ,athen4 loc4 cit4 ,,iv-#cb ,id4 ,ibid4 ,,iv-#cc ,id4 ,ibid4 ,,iv-#cd ,id4 ,ibid4 ,,iv-#ce ,id4 ,ibid4 ,,iv-#cf ,id4 iii4 #ac4 ,,iv-#cg ,plin4 xviii4 #g4 ,,iv-#ch ,athen4 loc4 cit4 ,,iv-#ci ,plaut4 ,pn4 et ,mostellar2 ,plin4 xviii4 #h4 ,,iv-#dj ,tit4 ,liv4 ,dec4 i4 lib4 v4 cap4 #dh--;,florus4 ,,iv-#da ,galen4 ,de ,aliment4 ,facultat4 i4 #ah4 ,,iv-#db ,festus2 ,lactant4 ,divinar4 ,institut4 cap4 #bj2 ,ovid4 ,fast4 ii4 #ebe4 ,,iv-#dc ,plin4 xviii4 ,,ii4 ,,iv-#dd ,pomp4 ,sabin4 ,in ,moret4 ,virgil4 ,,iv-#de ,maximar4 ,c4 ,de ,excusat4 ,muner4 ,l4 xii4 ,,iv-#df ,vitruv4 ,architect4 vi4 #i4 ,,iv-#dg ,plin4 xviii4 #aj4 ,,iv-#dh ,plin4 xviii4 #aa4 ,,iv-#di ,aurel4 ,vict42 si quis ,de ,pistorib4 ,l4 ii42 si cui1 ,ibid4 ,l4 iv4 ,,iv-#ej ,optio1 ,ibid4 ,l4 iv4 ,,iv-#ea ,nulli ,pistori1 ,ibid4 ,l4 xxi4 ,,iv-#eb ,ne ,quis1 ,ibid4 ,l4 xv4 ,,iv-#ec ,quicumque1 ,ibid4 ,l4 xxii4 ,,iv-#ed ,gell4 xv4 #ai4 ,,iv-#ee ,brod4 ,miscellan4 v4 #ba2 ,plin4 xix4 #a2 ,columell4 v4 #aj2 ,petron4 #he4 ,,iv-#ef ,juvenal4 ,sat4 x4 #hb4 ,,iv-#eg ,ammian4 ,marcellin4 xxvi42 ,sueton4 ,in ,claud4 cap4 #ah4 ,,iv-#eh ,plin4 xviii4 #g1 #i1 #aj1 #aa4 ,,iv-#ei ,id4 xix4 #d4 ,,iv-#fj ,id4 ,ibid4 ,,iv-#fa ,gronovius4 ,,iv-#fb ,richard4 ,gorri4 ,annal4 ,principio4 ,,iv-#fc ,plin4 xviii4 #aa4 ,,iv-#fd ,a4,d4 #ge4 ,,iv-#fe ,ovid4 ,fast4 vi41 #bfj1 et seqq4 ,,iv-#ff ,pitt4 ,ercolan4 tom4 ii4 p4 #ada4 ,,iv-#fg ,gronovius4 ,,iv-#fh ,cels4 ii4 #ah2 ,galen4 ,de ,facultat4 ,aliment4 i4 ,,iv-#fi ,id4 iv4 #f4 ,,iv-#gj ,ammian4 ,marcellin4 xvii4 #ag2 ,senec4 ,epist4 #hc4 ,,iv-#ga ,athen4 iii4 #bh4 ,,iv-#gb ,encyclop4 ,mthodiq4 ,antiquits4 ,,iv-#gc ,plaut4 ,aulul4 act4 ii4 sc4 #i1 ver4 #d2 ,plin4 xviii4 #aa4 ,,iv-#gd ,encyclop4 ,mthod4 ,antiq4 ,,iv-#ge ,ibid4 ,,iv-#gf ,ibid4 ,,iv-#gg ,strutt1 loc4 cit4 ,,iv-#gh ,delamarre1 ,trait de la ,police4 ,,iv-#gi ,rglement du #bj ,mars1 #afce4 ,,iv-#hj ,monteil4 ,hist4 des ,franais1 tom1 ii41 pp4 #dg1 #dh4 ,v4 ,,frumenta4 ,v-#a ,servius4 ,v-#b ,theophrast4 ex versione ,gaz4 ,v-#c ,hippocrat4 ,de ,victs ,ration42 ,galen4 ,de ,aliment4 ,facult4 lib4 i4 ,v-#d ,plin4 xviii4 #g2 xx4 #be2 ,bruyerin4 v4 #g2 et seqq4 ,v-#e ,deuteron4 viii4 #h4 ,v-#f ,,ii4 ,samuel1 xvii4 #bh4 ,v-#g ,paralipomen4 ii4 #i4 ,v-#h ,sueton4 ,in ,august4 cap4 #ad4 ,v-#i ,theophrast42 ,menand42 ,plin4 xviii4 #g4 ,v-#aj ,galen4 ,de ,aliment4 ,facultat4 lib4 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,id4 xiv4 et xxiii4 ,,xxviii-#ajj ,athen4 i4 et ix4 ,,xxviii-#aja ,aristot4 ,,xxviii-#ajb ,galen4 ,,xxviii-#ajc ,petron4 c4 #cd4 ,,xxviii-#ajd ,plin4 xiv4 #d4 ,,xxviii-#aje ,martial1 xi4 #fj4 ,,xxviii-#ajf ,apul4 ,milesiar4 ii4 ,,xxviii-#ajg ,senec4 ,epist4 #fd4 ,,xxviii-#ajh ,lucan4 ,pharsal4 x4 #afd4 ,,xxviii-#aji ,athen4 i4 #dg4 ,,xxviii-#aaj ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxviii-#aaa ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxviii-#aab ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxviii-#aac ,apicius1 i4 #f4 ,,xxviii-#aad ,athen4 i4 ,,xxviii-#aae ,plin4 xiv4 ,,xxviii-#aaf ,cato4 ,r4 ,r4 ,,xxviii-#aag ,plin4 xiv4 #h4 ,,xxviii-#aah ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxviii-#aai ,museum ,borbonicum4 tom4 iii42 ,ta4 vol4 #bh4 ,,xxviii-#abj ,plin4 xiv4 #i4 ,,xxviii-#aba ,varro4 ,de ,vit ,pop4 ,rom42 ,columell4 ,r4 ,r42 ,martial1 xiii4 #ajf2 ,juvenal4 xiv4 #bgj4 ,,xxviii-#abb ,columell4 xii4 #bg4 ,,xxviii-#abc ,dio4 ,commod4 ,,xxviii-#abd ,macrob4 vii4 #ab2 ,plin4 xxii4 ,,xxviii-#abe ,leclerc1 ,histoire de la p4 #dgi4 ,,xxviii-#abf ,geoponic4 viii4 ,,xxviii-#abg ,ibid4 ,,xxviii-#abh ,apicius1 i4 #d4 ,,xxviii-#abi ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxviii-#acj ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxviii-#aca ,plin4 xiv4 #ac4 ,,xxviii-#acb ,ercolano4 ,,xxviii-#acc ,plin4 xxiii4 #a4 ,,xxviii-#acd ,columell4 iii4 #c4 ,,xxviii-#ace ,bockh1 ,public ,economy of ,athens1 vol i4 p4 #acc4 ,,xxviii-#acf ,valer4 ,max4 ii4 #a4 ,,xxviii-#acg ,plin4 xiv4 #ac4 ,,xxviii-#ach ,fab4 ,pictor4 apud ,plin4 ,ib4 ,,xxviii-#aci ,plin4 ,ib4 ,,xxviii-#adj ,id4 xiv4 #f4 ,,xxviii-#ada ,id4 xiv4 #bh4 ,,xxviii-#adb ,athen4 v4 ,,xxviii-#adc ,dio4 ,trajan4 ,,xxviii-#add ,id4 ,in ,sever4 ,,xxviii-#ade ,sueton4 ,in ,claud4 ,,xxviii-#adf ,dio4 ,domitian4 ,,xxviii-#adg ,id4 ,in ,caligul4 ,,xxviii-#adh ,athen4 i4 #dg4 ,,xxviii-#adi ,tibull4 iii4 eleg4 #f2 ,martial1 v4 #fe4 ,,xxviii-#aej ,athen4 i4 #dh4 ,,xxviii-#aea ,plin4 xiv4 #af4 ,,xxviii-#aeb ,plutarch4 ,sympos4 viii4 #f4 ,,xxviii-#aec ,festus4 ,,xxviii-#aed ,plin4 loc4 cit4 ,,xxviii-#aee ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxviii-#aef ,id4 ,ib4 ,columell4 xii4 #ce4 ,,xxviii-#aeg ,plin4 loc cit42 ,columell4 xii4 #cg4 ,,xxviii-#aeh ,dioscorid4 v4 #ac2 ,plin4 loc4 cit4 ,,xxviii-#aei ,meursius4 ,,xxviii-#afj ,plin4 loc4 cit4 ,,xxviii-#afa ,strutt1 ,manners and ,customs of the ,ancient ,britons1 vol4 #a4 p4 #g4 ,,xxviii-#afb ,w4 ,malmsbur4 ,de ,pont4 lib4 iv4 ,,xxviii-#afc ,delamarre1 ,trait de la ,police4 ,,xxviii-#afd ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxviii-#afe ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxviii-#aff ,mlanges ,tirs d'une ,grande ,bibliothque4 ,,xxviii-#afg ,mnage4 ,,xxviii-#afh ,arnaud de ,villeneuve2 ,trait du ,rgime de la ,sant4 ,,xxviii-#afi ,les ,bigarrures du ,seigneur des ,accords4 ,,xxviii-#agj ,baluze4 ,capitul4 ,reg4 ,franc4 passim4 ,,xxviii-#aga ,fontanon4 ,conf4 des ,ordon4 tom4 ii4 p4 #hbb4 ,,xxviii-#agb ,strutt1 ,manners and ,customs1 c4 ,,xxviii-#agc ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxviii-#agd ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxix4 ,,repasts4 ,,xxix-#a ,athen4 i4 #af4 ,,xxix-#b ,id4 i4 #ae4 ,,xxix-#c ,homer4 ,iliad4 ,,xxix-#d ,athen4 i4 #af4 ,,xxix-#e ,aristot4 ,probl4 xxvi4 #de4 ,,xxix-#f ,posidippus4 ,in ,epigr4 ,,xxix-#g ,hierap4 ,theodor4 de ,certam4 ,,xxix-#h tol4 ,alexand4 ,,xxix-#i ,theodorus4 ,,xxix-#aj ,xanthus1 ,in ,lydiacis4 ,,xxix-#aa ,theopomp4 ,,xxix-#ab ,clearch4 ,,xxix-#ac ,mnesimach1 ,in ,philippo4 ,,xxix-#ad ,crates ,theban4 ,in ,lamia4 ,,xxix-#ae ,hecatus apud ,athen4 ,,xxix-#af ,sueton1 ,in ,claud4 #cc4 ,,xxix-#ag ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxix-#ah ,id4 ,in ,galba4 #bb4 ,,xxix-#ai ,id4 ,in ,vitell4 #ac4 ,,xxix-#bj ,virgil4 neid4 iii4 ,,xxix-#ba ,sueton4 loc4 cit4 ,,xxix-#bb ,id4 ,in ,vitell4 #ag4 ,,xxix-#bc ,fuller's ,worthies4 ,,xxix-#bd ,berchoux1 ,gastronomie1 note4 ,,xxix-#be ,athen4 i4 #ai4 ,,xxix-#bf ,herodot4 i4 #fc2 ,theophrast4 ,charact4 c4 #c4 ,,xxix-#bg ,plat4 ,epist4 #g4 ,,xxix-#bh ,athen4 i4 #i4 ,,xxix-#bi ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxix-#cj ,id4 v4 ,,xxix-#ca ,plutarch4 ,sympos4 viii4 #f4 ,,xxix-#cb ,ecclesiast4 x4 #af4 ,,xxix-#cc ,mercurial4 ,variar4 lect4 iv4 #ag1 ,in ,arte ,gymnast4 i4 #aa4 ,,xxix-#cd ,homer4 ,odyss4 ,,xxix-#ce ,athen4 i4 #ai2 ,aristophan4 ,in ,avib4 #abhf4 ,,xxix-#cf ,id4 ,ib42 ,schrevelius2 ,plutarch4 ,sympos4 viii4 #f4 ,,xxix-#cg ,apuleius1 ,metam4 i4 ,,xxix-#ch ,martial4 xiv4 #bcc4 ,,xxix-#ci ,apul4 loc4 cit4 ,,xxix-#dj ,sueton4 ,in ,august4 #gf4 ,,xxix-#da ,genes4 xliii4 #af4 ,,xxix-#db ,act4 x4 #i1 #aj4 ,,xxix-#dc ,athen4 i4 #i4 ,plutarch4 ,sympos4 viii4 #f4 ,,xxix-#dd ,cic4 ,tusculan4 ,qust4 #e4 ,,xxix-#de ,sueton4 ,in ,caligul4 #eh4 ,,xxix-#df ,horat4 ,sat4 i4 #f4 ,,xxix-#dg ,senec4 ,epist4 #hd1 #hg4 ,,xxix-#dh ,sueton4 ,in ,claud4 #cb4 ,,xxix-#di ,berchoux1 ,gastronomie1 notes4 ,,xxix-#ej ,isidor4 ,origin4 xx4 ,,xxix-#ea ,joseph4 ,de ,bello ,jud4 vii4 ,,xxix-#eb ,jud4 xx4 #bf2 ,,ii4 ,reg4 i4 #ab2 ,ib4 iii4 #be4 ,,xxix-#ec ,biblia ,sacra1 passim2 ,iliad1 ix4 #bjf1 #bah2 ,odyss4 xv4 #cbb4 ,,xxix-#ed ,homer4 ,iliad4 xxi4 #cfc4 ,,xxix-#ee ,id4 ,ib4 ix4 #bag4 ,,xxix-#ef ,id4 ,odyss4 xvii4 #dee4 ,,xxix-#eg ,id4 ,iliad4 vii4 #dhj4 ,,xxix-#eh ,id4 ,ib4 xii4 #caa4 ,,xxix-#ei ,id4 ,ib4 ix1 #bbe4 ,,xxix-#fj ,id4 ,odyss4 i4 #bbf2 ,terent4 ,eunuch4 iii4 #d2 ,athen4 viii4 ,,xxix-#fa ,aristophan4 ,eccl4 #feb4 ,,xxix-#fb ,macrob4 ,saturnal4 ii4 #ac2 ,val4 ,max4 ii4 #a4 ,,xxix-#fc ,biblia ,sacra1 passim4 ,,xxix-#fd ,,ii4 ,reg4 xix4 #ce4 ,,xxix-#fe ,see ,la ,farce de ,pathelin4 ,,xxix-#ff ,mmoires de ,dangeau4 ,,xxix-#fg ,plato4 ,de ,republ4 iii4 #ac4 ,,xxix-#fh ,pollux1 vi4 #hc4 ,,xxix-#fi ,martial4 iv4 #h4 ,,xxix-#gj ,juvenal4 i4 #ie4 ,,xxix-#ga ,liv4 ix4 ,,xxix-#gb ,sueton4 in ,vitell4 #ac4 ,,xxix-#gc ,nicolas1 ,etudes sur le ,christianisme1 tom4 i4 p4 #bed4 ,,xxix-#gd ,strabo2 ,diodor4 ,sicul42 ,csar4 ,,xxix-#ge ,strutt1 ,manners1 c4 vol4 i4 p4 #dh4 ,,xxix-#gf ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxix-#gg ,id4 ,ib4 p4 #di4 ,,xxix-#gh ,plutarch4 ,sympos4 i42 ,xenoph4 ,respubl4 ,laced42 ,plat4 ,de ,conviviis4 ,,xxix-#gi ,exod4 xxxii4 #f2 ,i4 ,reg4 ix4 #bb1 et passim4 ,,xxix-#hj ,philo4 ,de ,vit ,contempl4 ,,xxix-#ha ,s4 ,paul4 ,i4 ,corinth1 xi4 #bj1 et seqq42 ,chrysostom4 ,homil4 #bg2 ,tertull4 ,apologet4 c4 #ci2 ,augustin4 ,epist4 #fd2 ,baron4 ,annal4 sub an4 #eg1 #cgg1 #chd4 ,,xxix-#hb ,plat4 ,de ,conviviis2 ,aristot4 ,polit4 ii4 #h2 vii4 #aj4 ,,xxix-#hc ,xenoph4 ,de ,repub4 ,lac42 ,plutarch4 ,in ,vita ,lycurg4 ,,xxix-#hd ,plutarch4 ,ib4 ,,xxix-#he ,diogen4 ,laert42 ,plutarch4 ,vita ,solon4 ,,xxix-#hf ,flor4 i4 #a2 ,liv4 i4 #f2 ,dionys4 ,halicarn4 ,ant4 ,rom4 i42 ,plutarch4 ,vita ,romuli4 ,,xxix-#hg ,plutarch4 ,vita ,sull4 ,,xxix-#hh ,sueton4 ,in ,j4 ,csar4 ,,xxix-#hi ,bulenger1 ,de ,conviviis4 ,,xxix-#ij ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxix-#ia ,vid4 ,sueton42 ,lamprid42 ,dio4 c4 ,,xxix-#ib ,id4 ,,xxix-#ic ,apud ,strutt1 ,manners1 c4 vol4 iii4 p4 #aaa4 ,,xxix-#id ,monteil1 ,histoire des ,franais1 tom4 ii4 p4 #abf4 ,,xxix-#ie ,id4 ,ib4 tom4 vii4 p4 #cch1 et seqq4 ,,xxix-#if ,see ,piganiol1 ,description de la ,france4 ,,xxix-#ig ,holinshed1 p4 #ifi4 ,,xxix-#ih ,stow1 ,chron4 p4 #bfg4 ,,xxix-#ii ,id4 ,survey of ,london1 p4 #eba4 ,,xxix-#ajj ,strutt1 ,manners1 c4 vol4 ii4 p4 #ajd4 ,,xxix-#aja ,holinshed4 ,descrip4 ,brit4 #id4 ,,xxix-#ajb ,massinger1 ,the ,city ,madam4 ,,xxix-#ajc ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxix-#ajd ,killigrew1 ,the ,parson's ,wedding4 ,,xxix-#aje ,strutt1 ,manners1 c4 vol4 ii4 p4 #ai4 ,,xxix-#ajf ,mathieu ,paris1 anno #abdc4 ,,xxix-#ajg ,stow's ,survey of ,london2 apud ,strutt1 vol4 ii4 p4 #ai4 ,,xxix-#ajh ,monteil1 ,histoire des ,franais1 tom4 i4 p4 #ajf1 et seqq4 ,,xxix-#aji ,l',isle des ,hermaphrodites4 ,,xxix-#aaj ,contes d',eutrapel4 ,,xxix-#aaa ,ibid4 ,,xxix-#aab ,des ,accords1 ,les ,bigarrures1 ch4 #f4 ,,xxix-#aac ,aventures de ,foeneste1 liv4 iv4 ch4 #b4 ,,xxx4 ,,variety ,,of ,,repasts4 ,,xxx-#a ,biblia ,sacra1 passim4 ,,xxx-#b ,levitic4 iii4 #af4 ,,xxx-#c ,isai4 xxv4 #f4 ,,xxx-#d ,prov4 xxi4 #ag4 ,,xxx-#e ,,iii4 ,reg4 iv4 #bb1 #bc4 ,,xxx-#f ,biblia ,sacra1 passim4 ,,xxx-#g ,ap4 ,ulric4 ,rasium1 ,in ,catal4 ,legg4 ,antiquar4 ad ,leg4 ,jul4 de ,annon4 ,,xxx-#h ,plato4 ,de ,leg4 vi4 xxxiv42 ,aristot4 de ,republ4 iv4 #d1 #ae2 vi4 #h2 ,postel4 ,de ,magistrat4 ,athen4 ,,xxx-#i ,gorri4 ,annal4 ,,xxx-#aj ,accurs4 ,,xxx-#aa ,rosin4 ,antiquit4 ,roman1 p4 #ecc4 ,,xxx-#ab ,athen4 i4 #d4 ,,xxx-#ac ,philostrat4 ,,xxx-#ad ,athen4 i4 #e4 ,,xxx-#ae ,id4 v42 ,homer4 ,virgil1 passim2 ,banier2 ,stuckius4 ,,xxx-#af ,arnob4 iii4 ,,xxx-#ag ,varro4 ,,xxx-#ah ,columell4 ,,xxx-#ai ,senec4 ,de ,vit ,beat1 c4 #aa4 ,,xxx-#bj ,liv4 xxiv4 ,,xxx-#ba ,plaut4 ,menech4 i4 #a1 #be4 ,,xxx-#bb ,tibull4 i4 #c4 ,,xxx-#bc ,macrob4 ,saturnal4 i4 #g4 ,,xxx-#bd ,horat4 ,od4 ii4 #ad4 ,,xxx-#be ,varro4 ,r4 ,r4 iii4 #f4 ,,xxx-#bf ,apul4 ,metam4 iv4 #aeb4 ,,xxx-#bg ,sueton42 ,lamprid42 ,dio4 ,,xxx-#bh ,plin4 ix4 #ee4 ,,xxx-#bi ,possidon4 ii4 ,,xxx-#cj ,crinit4 ,de ,honest4 ,discipl4 xxiv4 #e4 ,,xxx-#ca ,spartian42 ,stuckius4 ,,xxx-#cb ,lucian4 ,in ,lapith4 ,,xxx-#cc ,sueton4 ,in ,vitell4 #ac4 ,,xxx-#cd ,plaut4 ,bacch4 i4 #a1 #fa4 ,,xxx-#ce ,vatin4 c4 #ab2 ,varro4 apud ,nonnium4 i4 #bcd4 ,,xxx-#cf ,barthlmy1 ,anacharsis4 ,,xxx-#cg ,pererius1 ,comment4 ,in ,daniel4 ,,xxx-#ch ,athen4 iv4 ,,xxx-#ci ,polyn4 ,strateg4 vi4 ,,xxx-#dj ,athen4 ii4 ix4 ,,xxx-#da ,id4 iv4 ,,xxx-#db ,aristoph4 ,acharn4 ,,xxx-#dc ,monteil4 ,histoire des ,franais1 tom4 i4 p4 #bjc4 ,,xxx-#dd ,id4 ,ib4 iii4 p4 #dhi4 ,,xxx-#de ,strutt4 ,manners1 c4 vol4 iii4 p4 #aac4 ,,xxx-#df ,from a ,manuscript in the ,harleian ,library1 quoted by ,strutt1 ,manners1 c4 vol4 iii4 p4 #aad4 ,,xxx-#dg ,taillevant4 ,le ,viandier4 ,,xxx-#dh ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxx-#di ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxx-#ej ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxx-#ea ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxx-#eb ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxi4 ,,the ,,dining-,,room4 ,,xxxi-#a ,valla4 iv4 ,,xxxi-#b ,fest4 ,pomp4 iii4 ,,xxxi-#c ,vid4 ,fabr4 v4 ,solarium4 ,,xxxi-#d ,petron4 ,satyric4 ,,xxxi-#e ,ercolano1 c42 ,gell's ,pompeiana1 passim2 ,senec4 ,epist4 #ij4 ,,xxxi-#f ,sueton4 ,in ,neron4 #ca4 ,,xxxi-#g ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxi-#h ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxi-#i ,senec4 ,de ,tranquill4 ,anim4 c4 #i4 ,,xxxi-#aj ,cornel4 ,nepos4 ,,xxxi-#aa ,juvenal4 ,sat4 ii4 ,,xxxi-#ab ,athen4 iii4 #ba2 ,gell4 iii4 #ai4 ,,xxxi-#ac ,athen4 ,lys4 ,frag4 #df4 ,,xxxi-#ad ,athen4 ,pollux1 x4 #abb2 ,plat4 ,repub4 iii42 ,theophr4 ,charact4 #bb4 ,,xxxi-#ae ,juvenal1 iii4 #bjd4 ,,xxxi-#af ,encyclop4 ,mthod4 ,antiquit4 ,,xxxi-#ag ,ib4 ,,xxxi-#ah ,ib4 ,,xxxi-#ai ,virgil4 n4 vii4 #ebh4 ,,xxxi-#bj ,monstrelet1 ,chroniques4 ,,xxxi-#ba ,mlanges ,tirs d'une ,grande ,bibliothque4 ,,xxxi-#bb ,ib4 ,,xxxi-#bc ,chroniques de ,st4 ,denis4 ,,xxxi-#bd ,vigiles de ,charles ,,vii4 ,,xxxi-#be ,l',isle des ,hermaphrodites4 ,,xxxi-#bf ,jerem4 xxxvi4 #bb4 ,,xxxi-#bg ,ercolano1 c4 ,,xxxi-#bh ,plin4 ,epist4 ii4 #ag4 ,,xxxi-#bi ,apul4 ,metam4 iv4 ,,xxxi-#cj ,columell4 ii4 #bb4 ,,xxxi-#ca ,sil4 ,italic4 ,punicor4 vi4 ,,xxxi-#cb ,petron4 ,nodot4 tom4 i4 p4 #aaf4 ,,xxxi-#cc ,paulinus1 ,episcop4 ,nol4 ,d4 ,felicis ,natali1 #f4 ,,xxxi-#cd ,mercure ,galant4 ,mars1 #afha4 ,,xxxii4 ,,the ,,table4 ,,xxxii-#a ,athen4 i4 #bj4 ,,xxxii-#b ,tibull4 ii4 #f2 ,valer4 ,flac4 ,argonaut4 i4 ,,xxxii-#c ,plin4 xxxiii4 #aa4 ,,xxxii-#d ,hom4 ,odyss1 iii4 #ach4 ,,xxxii-#e ,athen4 xi4 #gh4 ,,xxxii-#f ,athen4 ix4 #ge4 ,,xxxii-#g ,homer4 ,odyss4 iii4 #ced et seqq42 #cfa et seqq4 ,,xxxii-#h ,athen4 xi4 #bg4 ,,xxxii-#i ,potter1 ii4 p4 #cgg4 ,,xxxii-#aj ,liv4 ix4 ,decad4 #d4 ,,xxxii-#aa ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxii-#ab ,plin4 xvi4 #bg4 ,,xxxii-#ac ,id4 xiii4 #ae4 ,,xxxii-#ad ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxii-#ae ,id4 ,ib42 ,senec4 ,de ,tranquil4 ,anim4 c4 i42 ,id4 ,de ,beneficiis1 vii4 #i4 ,,xxxii-#af ,plin4 ix4 #aa4 ,,xxxii-#ag ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxii-#ah ,id4 xvi4 ,,xxxii-#ai ,fest4 v4 ,,xxxii-#bj ,varro4 ,l4 ,l4 iv4 ,,xxxii-#ba ,sidon4 ,apollin4 ,epist4 ii4 #b4 ,,xxxii-#bb ,id4 ,ib4 i4 #aa4 ,,xxxii-#bc ,rosin4 ,ant4 ,rom4 p4 #cgg4 ,,xxxii-#bd ,servius4 n4 i4 ad finem4 ,,xxxii-#be ,homer4 ,odyss4 i4 #bei2 ,pind4 ,olymp4 i4 #bf4 ,,xxxii-#bf ,martial4 ,,xxxii-#bg ,apul4 ,milesiar4 ii42 ,basil4 ,magnus ,orat4 ad ,divites4 ,,xxxii-#bh ,plin4 xiii4 #ae4 ,,xxxii-#bi ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxii-#cj ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxii-#ca ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxii-#cb ,stuckius4 ,,xxxii-#cc ,id42 ,calmet4 ,,xxxii-#cd ,gregor4 ,tur4 ,,xxxii-#ce ,eginhard4 ,,xxxii-#cf ,polydor4 ,virgil1 p4 #beg2 ,rapin ,de ,thoiras4 ,,xxxii-#cg ,varro4 ,l4 ,l4 iv4 #bf4 ,,xxxii-#ch ,printed ,a4,d4 #aejh ,,the ,,table ,,seats4 ,,xxxii-#ci ,calmet4 ,,xxxii-#dj ,i4 ,reg4 ix4 #bb42 xx4 #be4 ,,xxxii-#da ,calmet4 tom4 v4 fol4 #bef4 ,,xxxii-#db ,diodor1 ,sicul4 ,,xxxii-#dc ,ercolano1 tom4 i4 tav4 #bi2 ,athen4 xi4 #gb4 ,,xxxii-#dd ,athen4 i4 #ca4 ,,xxxii-#de ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxii-#df ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxii-#dg ,isidor4 xx4 #aa4 ,,xxxii-#dh ,valer4 ,maxim4 ii4 #a4 ,,xxxii-#di ,rosinus2 ,stuckius4 ,,xxxii-#ej ,scholiast4 ,juvenal4 ,sat4 v4 #ag4 ,,xxxii-#ea ,rosin4 p4 #chj4 ,,xxxii-#eb ,athen4 ii4 #i4 ,,xxxii-#ec ,martial4 ii4 #df4 ,,xxxii-#ed ,id4 iii4 #di4 ,,xxxii-#ee ,rosinus4 ,,xxxii-#ef ,horat4 ,serm4 ii4 #c1 #bec4 ,,xxxii-#eg ,stuckius2 ,rosinus2 ,ercolano1 passim4 ,,xxxii-#eh ,lambin4 ,in ,sat4 iv4 lib4 ii42 ,horat42 ,mercurial4 ,de ,art4 ,gymnast4 ,,xxxii-#ei ,xenoph4 ,de ,pd4 ,cyri1 viii4 ,,xxxii-#fj ,plutarch4 ,sympos4 ,,xxxii-#fa ,lamprid4 ,in ,elogab4 ,,xxxii-#fb ,spartian4 ,in ,vero4 ,,xxxii-#fc ,lamprid4 loc4 cit4 ,,xxxii-#fd ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxii-#fe ,possidonius4 ,,xxxii-#ff ,strabo4 ,,xxxii-#fg ,diodor4 ,,xxxii-#fh ,le ,moine de ,st4 ,gal4 ,,xxxii-#fi ,mnage4 ,,xxxii-#gj ,l',isle des ,hermaphrodites4 ,,xxxii-#ga ,vie de ,st4 ,arnould4 ,,xxxii-#gb ,mlanges ,tirs d'une ,grande ,bibliothque4 ,,xxxii-#gc ,vita ,s4 ,berland4 ,,xxxii-#gd ,martial4 xii4 #bi4 ,,xxxii-#ge ,alain ,chartier4 ,,xxxii-#gf ,l',isle des ,hermaphr4 ,,xxxii-#gg ,martial4 loc4 cit4 ,,xxxii-#gh ,plin4 xxxv4 #ae2 xxxvi4 #ai4 ,,xxxii-#gi ,id4 ,ibid4 ,,xxxiii4 ,,the ,,servants4 ,,xxxiii-#a ,gruterus1 pp4 #bfj1 #iff1 #igc4 ,,xxxiii-#b ,kipping4 ,antiquitat4 ,,xxxiii-#c ,dionys4 ,halicarnass4 ii4 ,,xxxiii-#d ,exod4 xxi4 #f2 ,deuteron4 xv4 #ag4 ,,xxxiii-#e ,juvenal4 ,sat4 i4 ,,xxxiii-#f ,cl4 ,rhodig4 ,antiquit4 viii4 #aa4 ,,xxxiii-#g ,zachar4 xiii4 #f4 ,,xxxiii-#h ,plaut4 ,casin4 act ii4 sc4 #f4 ,,xxxiii-#i ,gruterus1 p4 #eif4 ,,xxxiii-#aj ,petron4 ,satyric4 ,,xxxiii-#aa ,columell4 i42 ,tibull4 i4 #g4 ,,xxxiii-#ab ,vid4 ,pignorium1 ,de ,servis4 ,,xxxiii-#ac ,id4 ,ib42 ,petron4 loc4 cit4 ,,xxxiii-#ad ,senec4 ,epist4 #dg4 ,,xxxiii-#ae ,plin4 xxxv4 #aj2 ,senec4 ,de ,ir4 iii4 #cg4 ,,xxxiii-#af ,pignor4 loc4 cit4 ,,xxxiii-#ag ,sueton4 ,in ,domit4 #af2 ,capitol4 ,pertin4 #d4 ,,xxxiii-#ah ,hildebrand4 ,compend4 ,antiquit4 ,rom4 ,,xxxiii-#ai ,plin4 xxxii4 #f2 ,petron4 c4 #dg4 ,,xxxiii-#bj ,petron4 c4 #ce4 ,,xxxiii-#ba ,id4 c4 #cf4 ,,xxxiii-#bb ,philo4 ,de ,vit ,contemplativ4 ,,xxxiii-#bc ,plaut4 ,trin4 ii4 #a1 #bb4 ,,xxxiii-#bd ,propert4 ii4 #be1 #aa4 ,,xxxiii-#be ,terent4 ,eunuch1 iii4 #e1 #dg2 ,fulv4 ,ursin4 ,in ,appendic4 ad ,ciaccon4 ,,xxxiii-#bf ,plaut4 ,most4 iv4 #a1 #bd2 ,terent4 ,adelphi4 #ab4 ,,xxxiii-#bg ,pignorius2 ,sueton1 ,in ,claud4 #dd4 ,,xxxiii-#bh ,petron4 c4 #bb2 ,pignorius4 ,,xxxiii-#bi ,senec4 ,epist4 #bi2 ,lips4 ,elector1 i4 #ai4 ,,xxxiii-#cj ,ulpian4 ,l4 i4 #e1 ,dig4 ,de ,naut4 ,caupon4 et ,stabular4 ,,xxxiii-#ca ,id4 ,dig4 xxxviii4 t4 #g1 ,l4 viii4 ,fin4 #a4 ,,xxxiii-#cb ,stuckius4 ,,xxxiv4 ,,the ,,guests4 ,,xxxiv-#a ,genes4 xliii4 et passim4 ,,xxxiv-#b ,schol4 ,theocrit4 ,in ,idyll4 vii4 #bd2 ,plut4 ,sympos4 viii4 #f4 ,,xxxiv-#c ,athen4 i4 #ba4 ,,xxxiv-#d ,id4 i4 #bc4 ,,xxxiv-#e ,homer4 ,,xxxiv-#f ,athen4 i4 #ai4 ,,xxxiv-#g ,id4 i4 #g4 ,,xxxiv-#h ,xenoph4 ,de ,republ4 ,laced42 ,plut4 ,vita ,lycurg4 ,,xxxiv-#i ,athen4 i4 ,,xxxiv-#aj ,plutarch4 ,sympos4 ,,xxxiv-#aa ,apul4 ,milesiar4 x4 ,,xxxiv-#ab ,macrob4 ,saturnal4 iii4 #ag4 ,,xxxiv-#ac ,gell4 xiii4 #aa2 ,de ,num4 ,conviv4 ,,xxxiv-#ad ,macrob4 loc4 cit4 ,,xxxiv-#ae ,sammonic4 ,severus2 ,macrob4 loc4 cit4 ,,xxxiv-#af ,plaut42 ,horat4 ,,xxxiv-#ag ,plaut4 ,,xxxiv-#ah ,athen4 vi4 #e2 ,terent4 ,eunuch1 ii4 #b1 #ac1 et #af4 ,,xxxiv-#ai ,virg4 n4 i42 ,plaut4 ,pers4 v4 #b2 ,athen4 xiv4 ,,xxxiv-#bj ,genes4 xviii4 #d2 xix4 #b2 ,judic4 xix4 #ba2 ,luc4 vii4 #dd2 #a ,timoth4 v4 #aj1 et passim4 ,,xxxiv-#ba ,tibull4 ,eleg4 iv4 #f4 ,,xxxiv-#bb ,marc4 xiv4 #c4 ,,xxxiv-#bc ,horat4 ,od4 iii4 #ad2 ,anacr4 passim4 ,,xxxiv-#bd ,plin4 xiv4 #bb2 ,plut4 ,sympos42 ,athen4 x4 ,,xxxiv-#be ,strutt1 ,anglo-,saxons1 vol4 i4 p4 #di4 ,,xxxiv-#bf ,id4 ,ib4 p4 #dh4 ,,xxxiv-#bg ,froissard4 ,,xxxiv-#bh ,saint-,foix1 ,essais sur ,paris4 ,,xxxiv-#bi ,laneham1 ,sports exhibited at ,kenilworth4 ,,xxxiv-#cj ,johan4 ,sarisburiensis1 i4 #h1 p4 #cd4 ,,xxxiv-#ca ,saint-,foix1 ,essais1 tom4 iv4 p4 #ace4 ,,xxxiv-#cb ,herodot4 ii4 ,,xxxiv-#cc ,sapient4 iii4 #d4 ,,xxxv4 ,a ,,roman ,,supper4 ,,xxxv-#a ,genes1 xviii42 ,esther1 v42 ,matth4 xxii4 ,,xxxv-#b ,plin4 xxxv4 #aj4 ,,xxxv-#c ,mercurial4 ,de ,arte ,gymnast1 p4 #id1 edit4 ,frisii2 ,apul4 ,metamorph4 v4 ,in ,principio2 ,id4 lib4 iv4 ,asini4 ,,xxxv-#d ,apul4 loc4 cit4 ,,xxxv-#e ,leclerc1 ,histoire de la ,mdecine1 p4 #egc4 ,,xxxv-#f ,apul4 lib4 i4 ,apologi ,su1 ex ,catull4 ,,xxxv-#g ,sammonic4 ,seren4 ,de ,medicin1 c4 #ae4 ,,xxxv-#h ,plaut4 ,in ,captivis1 act i4 sc4 #b1 v4 #hd4 ,,xxxv-#i ,martial4 v4 #dd4 ,,xxxv-#aj ,plin4 vii4 #fj4 ,,xxxv-#aa ,id4 xxxvi4 #aj4 ,,xxxv-#ab ,turneb4 ,adversar4 xxiii4 #ai2 xxvii4 #ah4 ,,xxxv-#ac ,theophrast4 ,charact4 #bj4 ,,xxxv-#ad ,virgil4 n4 i4 v4 #gbi4 ,,xxxv-#ae ,montfaucon1 ,antiq4 ,expl4 ,,xxxv-#af ,petron4 ,nodot4 tom4 i4 p4 #abb4 ,,xxxv-#ag ,plutarch4 ,problem4 ,romanor4 #gf4 ,,xxxv-#ah ,petron4 loc4 cit4 ,,xxxv-#ai ,terent4 ,heautontimor4 act i4 sc4 #a4 ,,xxxv-#bj ,octav4 ,ferrarius1 ,de ,re ,vestiari1 i4 #ca4 ,,xxxv-#ba ,le ,pitture ,antiche d',ercolano1 tom4 i4 tav4 #ad4 ,,xxxv-#bb ,dio4 lxix4 ,,xxxv-#bc ,senec4 ,de ,vit ,beat2 ,tibull4 iv4 #f2 ,psalm4 passim4 ,,xxxv-#bd ,sil4 ,ital4 ,punicor4 vi4 ,,xxxv-#be ,petron4 ,conviv4 ,trimalcion4 ,,xxxv-#bf ,just4 ,lips4 ,,xxxv-#bg ,juvenal4 ,sat4 xi4 ,,xxxv-#bh ,pacatus4 ,,xxxv-#bi ,vitruv4 ,architect4 v4 #h4 ,,xxxv-#cj ,quintilian4 ,institut4 ,orator4 i4 #ad4 ,,xxxv-#ca ,valer4 ,maxim1 ii4 #a4 ,,xxxv-#cb ,arnob4 ii4 ,,xxxv-#cc ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxv-#cd ,quintilian4 ,declamat4 #cja4 ,,xxxv-#ce ,juvenal4 ,sat4 v4 #cb2 vi4 #aed4 ,,xxxv-#cf ,terent4 ,eunuch1 act4 i4 sc4 #b1 v4 #he4 ,,xxxv-#cg ,virgil4 n4 v4 ,,xxxv-#ch ,cic4 ad ,familiar4 ix4 #bj4 ,,xxxv-#ci ,horat4 ,sat4 ix4 #h1 #i4 ,,xxxv-#dj ,petron4 ,nodot4 tom4 i4 p4 #abd4 ,,xxxv-#da ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxv-#db ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxv-#dc ,apicius1 ii4 #a4 ,,xxxv-#dd ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxv-#de ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxv-#df ,petron4 p4 #abh4 ,,xxxv-#dg ,athen4 iv4 ,,xxxv-#dh ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxv-#di ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxv-#ej ,petron4 tom4 i4 p4 #acj4 ,,xxxv-#ea ,alex4 ,trallian4 lib4 ,problem #a4 ,,xxxv-#eb ,aul4 ,gell4 xv4 #b4 ,,xxxv-#ec ,plutarch4 ,sympos4 i4 ,qust4 #d4 ,,xxxv-#ed ,martial4 vi4 #hi4 ,,xxxv-#ee ,id4 iii4 #h4 ,,xxxv-#ef ,lucan4 ,pharsal4 lib4 iii4 carm4 #ad4 ,,xxxv-#eg ,athen4 iii4 #ba4 ,,xxxv-#eh ,virgil4 ,georg4 ii4 #ebh4 ,,xxxv-#eh;,a ,macrob4 ,saturnal4 ii4 #i4 ,,xxxv-#ei ,martial4 xiii4 #eb4 ,,xxxv-#fj ,plin4 ,,xxxv-#fa ,martial4 iii4 #e4 ,,xxxv-#fb ,id4 xiii4 #ga4 ,,xxxv-#fc ,juvenal4 i4 #ada4 ,,xxxv-#fd ,petron4 ,nodot1 tom4 i4 p4 #acf4 ,,xxxv-#fe ,martial4 xiii4 #dd4 ,,xxxv-#ff ,id4 xiii4 #ef4 ,,xxxv-#fg ,id4 xiii4 #ee4 ,,xxxv-#fh ,petron4 tom4 i4 p4 #acj4 ,,xxxv-#fi ,id4 p4 #acf4 ,,xxxv-#gj ,martial4 iii4 #hb4 ,,xxxv-#ga ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxv-#gb ,horat4 ,sat4 ii4 #h1 #hf4 ,,xxxv-#gc ,petron4 p4 #ach4 ,,xxxv-#gd ,martial4 i4 #fb4 ,,xxxv-#ge ,petron4 p4 #acb4 ,,xxxv-#gf ,id4 ,ib4 ,,xxxv-#gg ,virgil4 n4 ii4 #di4 ,,xxxv-#gh ,plaut4 ,cur4 i4 #c1 #ae4 ,,xxxv-#gi ,encyclop4 ,mthod4 ,antiquits4 ,,xxxv-#hj ,plaut4 ,in ,sticho4 ,,xxxv-#ha ,sueton4 ,in ,galba4 ,,xxxv-#hb ,juvenal4 ,sat4 xi4 ,,xxxv-#hc ,gell4 xiii4 #aa4 ,,xxxv-#hd ,martial4 v4 #gi4 ,,xxxv-#he ,fest4 ,paniroll4 tom4 ii4 tit4 #b1 ,de ,porcellanis4 ,,xxxv-#hf ,nicephor4 ,gregoras2 ,manilius2 ,nicetas2 ,vopiscus4 ,,xxxv-#hg ,casaub4 ,in ,athen4 i4 #ae4 ,,xxxv-#hh ,xenoph4 ,in ,conviv4 ,,xxxv-#hi ,herodot4 vi4 #abi4 ,,xxxv-#ij ,xenoph4 loc4 cit42 ,caylus1 ,recueil d',antiquits4 tom4 i4 p4 #bjb4 ,,xxxv-#ia ,caylus1 ,ib42 ,athen4 iv4 ,,xxxv-#ib ,socrat4 ,in ,conviv4 ,xenoph4 ,,xxxv-#ic ,horat4 ,sat4 lib4 ii4 #g1 v4 #hb4 ,,xxxv-#id ,caylus1 tom4 iv4 pl4 #hj1 ,no4 #a2 tom4 vi4 pl4 #ij1 ,no4 #c2 tom4 vii4 p4 #afd4 ,,xxxv-#ie ,vet4 ,scholiast4 ,juvenal4 ad v4 #afb1 sat4 #aa4 ,,xxxv-#if ,rosinus1 ,antiquit4 ,roman4 p4 #cia4 ,,xxxv-#ig ,macrob4 ,saturnal4 ii4 #a4 ,,xxxv-#ih ,rosinus1 ,ib4 ,,xxxv-#ii ,id4 p4 #daj4 ,,table ,,of ,,recipes ,,of ,ancient ,cookery1 and for the making of various ,dishes4 ,page ,,oxen4 ,care taken of oxen at the plough #ad ,greek and ,roman manure #ad ,,cereals4 ,how to keep corn any length of time #ae ,marshal ,vanban's method for using corn in soup #ae ,rural occupation of the ,anglo-,saxons throughout the year #ag1 #ah ,,bread4 ,bread made of spelt #ai ,granea porridge #bj ,avena oats for cattle and porridge #bj ,seor bread #ca ,azumos biscuit #cc ,artolaganos biscuit #cc ,escarites #cc ,melitates #cc ,tyrontes #cc ,method of making leaven #cf ,autopyron bread #cg ,athlet's bread #cg ,cappadocian ditto #ch ,artoplites ditto #ch ,astrologicus ditto #ch ,panis madidus paste #ch ,various kinds of bread made in ,paris in the #adth century #dj ,alphiton1 or barley gruel #da ,another sort #db ,how to obtain the flavour of vanille from oats1 and make an excellent cream #db ,rice good in consumption and spitting of blood #dc ,carthaginian pudding #dd ,indian corn hasty pudding #dd ,,seeds4 ,mustard1 its influence and qualities #df ,coriander1 its properties #dg ,lupin1 fit for fattening cattle #dg ,,vegetables4 ,method of preserving vegetables #ea ,twelfth-,night cake #ed ,haricots preserved #ef ,apicius's method of dressing cabbages #fa ,dried cauliflowers #fa ,beet1 its medicinal qualities #fb ,apicius1 on stewing the beet #fc ,beet-root as a salad #fc ,mallows as a salad #fd ,how to keep asparagus several days #fe ,how to cook the gourd #ff1 #fg ,turnips1 how to dress #fg ,carrots as a salad1 and otherwise #fh ,purslaine1 its internal use #fi ,sorrel1 stewed #fi ,method of rendering artichoke mild #ga ,way of dressing #ga ,how to preserve them #ga ,pompion1 how to dress it2 three recipes #gb ,cucumber2 four recipes #gc ,apicius's nogarum #gc ,lettuce1 method of cultivation by ,aristoxenus #gd ,how to dress lettuces #ge ,endives1 way of stewing them #gf ,onions1 stewed #gf ,leeks1 stewed #gg ,radishes1 how to preserve them #gi ,horse-radish1 its virtues #ha ,garlic1 its qualities #hb ,parsley1 stewed #hb ,chervil1 how used #hd ,water-cress1 its properties #he ,,plants ,,used ,,in ,,seasoning4 ,poppy1 how used #hf ,sow-thistle1 good for rabbits #hg ,rocket1 good for removing freckles #hg ,fennel1 good for strengthening the sight #hh ,dill1 its qualities #hh ,anise-seed1 its properties #hh ,hyssop1 good for cutaneous eruptions #hi ,wild marjoram1 a most delicate condiment1 c4 #hi ,savory1 its usefulness #hi ,thyme1 its culinary value #hi ,wild thyme1 efficacious1 for the bite of serpents #hi ,sweet marjoram1 oil extracted from it #hi ,pennyroyal1 a digestive #ij ,rue1 a cure for the ear-ache #ij ,mint1 a preservative against curdling of milk #ij ,assaftida1 chewed by the ,persians and ,indians #ib ,ginger1 an aperitive good for the scurvy and the chest #ib ,wormwood1 good for giddiness #ic ,,stone ,,fruit4 ,olive tree1 preparation of its fruit #ih ---- and qualities #ii ,dates1 their various uses #aja ,peaches1 how to preserve them #ajd ,,pip ,,fruit4 ,quinces1 how to preserve them #ajg ,pears1 strengthening qualities #ajg ,lemons1 method of preserving #aaj ,mulberry1 a beneficent fruit1 agreeable to the stomach1 and digestible #aaf ,,shell ,,fruit4 ,almonds1 how to dress them1 and their various properties #aag ,walnuts1 considered astringent1 stomachic1 an antidote to poison1 and digestible #aai ,pistachios1 good however dressed #aba ,chesnuts1 how to preserve #abb ,pomegranate1 preserving #abc ,,rearing ,,of ,,cattle4 ,oxen1 how to fatten them #abh ,method of salting and preserving meat #aca ,,the ,,pig4 ,hog la ,troyenne #acf ,apician brine1 for salting pork #ach ,apician pork #ach ,macedonian pork #ach ,stuffed sucking pig #aci ,aristoxenic ham #aci ,lucullian ham #aci ,ventre de truie la ,troyenne #aci ,ditto la ,romaine #aci ,fillet of pork la ,botienne #aci ,ttines de truie la ,salienne #adj ,ditto la ,flamine #adj ,olympian pig's liver #adj ,capitolian pig's liver #adj ,campanian bacon #adj ,quenelles of pig's liver and brains #adj ,lucanian sausages #adj ,imperial sausages #ada ,,the ,,ox4 ,beef l',ibrienne #add ,stewed beef la ,sarmate #add ,dish of veal la ,syracusaine #add ,noix de veau la ,tarantaise #add ,cisalpine preserve #ade ,,the ,,lamb4 ,lamb's head la ,quirinale #adg ,quarter of lamb l',esquilon #adg ,palatine broil #adg ,roast lamb la ,phrygienne #adg ,lamb la ,trimalcion #adg ,,the ,,kid4 ,kid la ,trans-,tibrienne #adi ,roast ,kid la ,janiculum #adi ,kid la ,tarpienne #adi ,kid la ,tivoli #adi ,kid la ,mlisienne #adi ,,poultry4 ,capon la ,dliaque #aee ,,the ,,hen4 ,poularde la ,viminale #aef ,,the ,,chicken4 ,apician ,macedonia of chicken #aeg ,parthian chicken #aeg ,numidian chicken #aeg ,chicken la ,frontonienne #aeg ,chicken la ,clienne #aeg ,,the ,,duck4 ,ducks' brains l',epicurienne #aei ,apicius's seasoning for wild duck #aei ,,the ,,goose4 ,sejus's seasoning #afa ,apician seasoning for roast goose's liver #afa ,boiled goose la ,gauloise #afa ,,the ,,pigeon4 ,roast pigeon1 with ,servilian seasoning #afc ,,the ,,guinea ,,hen4 ,guinea hen la ,numide #afc ,,the ,,turkey ,,hen4 ,turkey l',africaine #afe ,how to fatten turkey #afe ,turkey's eggs more delicate than hen's eggs #aff ,how to preserve turkey #aff ,,the ,,peacock4 ,peacock of ,samos #afg ,,milk1 ,,butter1 ,,cheese1 ,,and ,,eggs4 ,,milk4 ,hygeian qualities of milk #afi ,asses' milk1 good in weak constitutions #afi ,macdoine ,germanique of milk #agj ,,butter4 ,method of preserving butter #agb ,method of preventing rancidity #agb ,,cheese4 ,salad of cheese1 la ,bithynienne #agd ,dish of ,tromelian cheese #agd ,cheese of ,rouergue #agd ,,eggs4 ,eggs la ,romaine #agg ,hard eggs l',athnienne #agg ,fried eggs l',epnte #agg ,egyptian egg pudding #agg ,lesbian eggs aux roses #agg ,,the ,,stag4 ,quarter of stag roast l',nmenne #ahc ,shoulder of stag l',hortensius #ahc ,fillet of stag la ,persane #ahc ,,the ,,roebuck4 ,roebuck with spikenard #ahd ,roebuck aux prunes #ahd ,roebuck aux ,amandes de ,pin #ahd ,,the ,,deer4 ,deer la ,marcellus #ahe ,,the ,,wild ,,boar4 ,wild boar la ,troyenne #ahe ,wild boar la ,pompe #ahg ,quarter of wild boar la ,thebaine #ahg ,fillet of wild boar la ,macdonienne #ahg ,wild boar's liver la ,grecque #ahg ,wild boar's head la ,cantabre #ahg ,green ham of wild boar la ,gauloise #ahg ,,elephant4 ,elephant's feet roasted #aib ,,feathered ,,game4 ,pheasant's flesh1 good for weak stomachs #aie ,starling1 a nourishing and light food #bjj ,fig-pecker1 an exquisite bird #bjc ,ortolan1 has the same reputation #bjc ,ostrich1 fatted and salted #bjc ,ostrich's eggs1 enormous1 how to cook them #bjd ,ostrich's fat1 used in the preparation of dishes2 cures rheumatism and paralysis #bjd ,salangan's nest1 a delicious seasoning #bje ,salangan's nest1 good for exhaustion and debile stomachs #bje ,salangan's nest1 makes a fortifying pottage #bjf ,snipe1 delicate savour of the fat #bjg ,snipe1 how to find1 when in perfection #bjg ,lark1 its supposed property #bjg ,the common lark1 wholesome and delicate #bcg ,,fish4 ,caviar1 how manufactured #bag ,mullet1 way of dressing #bai ,lamprey1 ,italian method of cooking #bbc ,scarus1 an epicurean dish #bbd ,conger-eel1 how dressed #bbf ,eel1 ,apicius's recipe #bbg ,pike1 preserved #bbh ,carp1 curious way of dressing #bbi ,eel-pout1 how to dress the liver #bbi ,trout1 dressed as the preceding #bcj ,gold-fish1 how served #bcj ,whiting1 manner of cooking #bca ,cod-fish1 how cooked by the ,greeks #bca ,perch1 way of dressing #bcb ,scates1 the eggs excellent for intermittent fever #bcc ,sepia1 ,apicius's recipe #bcd ,swordfish1 how dressed by the ,greeks #bcd ,shad1 way it is cooked #bcd ,rhombo1 a delicate fish1 how dressed #bce ,mugil1 how prepared #bce ,loligo1 how prepared #bcg ,sole1 a nourishing and light food #bcg ,pilchard1 way of cooking #bch ,loach1 how dressed #bch ,gudgeons1 how dressed #bci ,herring1 methods of preserving #bdj ,anchovy1 how salted and how dressed #bda ,emphractum stew #bdb ,oysters1 how dressed at ,rome #bdc ,oysters1 how preserved #bdd ,sea-hedgehog1 way of cooking #bde ,mussel1 how dressed #bde ,tortoise1 the blood supposed to cure diseases of the eyes1 how dressed #bdf ,sea crayfish1 ,roman way of dressing #bdg ,lobster1 how cooked #bdh ,river crayfish1 how dressed and preserved #bdh ,crab sausages #bdh ,frogs1 how dressed #bdi ,preserving of fish #bea ,,sauce ,,and ,,seasoning4 ,sauce la ,cameline #beh ,tence sauce #beh ,brine1 how made #bfi ,digestive salt1 how made #bfi ,garum1 various recipes #bgj #bga ,digestive garum 7,apicius7 #bgb ,wonderful seasoning of ,apicius #bgd ,oxyporon seasoning #bgd ,honey1 its medicinal properties #bgf ,cinnamon1 its medicinal properties #bgf ,greek and ,roman pickles #bgh ,truffles1 ,apicius's method of preparing #bhj ,syrup of truffles1 how made #bhj ,truffles1 medicinal quality #bha ,truffles1 how to preserve #bha ,the ,emperor ,verus's pie1 how made #bhg ,cato's cake1 how made #bhg ,ancient pie1 the placenta1 how made #bhg ,globi1 method of making #bhh ,apicius's globi1 three recipes #bhi ,original pastry1 its progress1 how made #bia ,darioles1 how composed #bib ,curious tarts #bib ,,water4 ,aristotle's method of obtaining ice #bie ,,beverages4 ,zythum and ,curmi1 how composed #bii ,strong ale1 how to make a hogshead #cjb ,bracket1 way of making #cjc ,ptisana1 recipe #cjd ,oxycratus1 do4 #cjd ,sicera1 made of grain1 honey1 or fruit #cjd ,hydromel1 method of making it #cjd ,hydromelon1 how composed #cje ,hydrorosatum1 simple addition to the preceding #cje ,apomeli1 simple recipe #cje ,omphacomeli1 ingenious mixture #cje ,myrtites1 aromatic drink #cje ,date wine1 how made #cje ,artificial wines #cje ,nero's refreshing water #cje ,,tea4 ,various teas1 how manufactured #cjf ,,coffee4 ,various qualities of coffee #caj ,coffee1 made with roasted rye #caa ,coffee1 with chicory #caa ,coffee1 made with lupin #caa ,coffee1 its medicinal properties #caa ,coffee1 its physical effects #cab ,,chocolate4 ,various kinds of cocoa #cac ,chocolate1 how manufactured #cac ,chiapa1 perfumed chocolate #cad ,chocolate1 its properties #cad ,,wine4 ,grapes1 way of preserving fresh #cbe ,wine1 method of making #cbe ,piquette1 simple way of obtaining it #cbf ,carenum1 how obtained #cbf ,defrutum1 how obtained #cbf ,sapa1 how obtained #cbf ,wine1 how to preserve it #cbf ,preparation of dolia for wine #cbg ,wine1 how to fine it #cbg ,athenus's opinion of old wine #cbi ,difference of properties between white and red wines #cbi ,process of preparation for ,chios wine #ccj ,passum wine #cbj ,dulce wine #ccj ,mulsum wine #cca ,anisites wine #cca ,rosatum wine1 ,apicius's recipe #cca ,violatum wine #cca ,myrrhinum wine #cca ,,liqueur ,,wine4 ,various composition of liqueurs1 herbs employed #ccc ,liqueur wine for ,greek and ,roman ladies #ccc ,wormwood wine1 how made1 its properties #ccd ,bitter liqueurs1 how obtained #ccd ,myrtle wine1 its properties #ccd ,adynamon wine1 its properties #cce nanthinum wine #cce ,burgundy and ,champagne wines #ccf ,ypocras1 how composed #cch ,clarey1 how composed #cch ,,repasts4 ,,roman ,,supper4 ,fly dishes1 or dormice1 what they consist of #cij ,champignon and egg sausages1 how made #cij ,grasshoppers1 how prepared and cooked #cij ,,index4 44444,page ,abacus1 sideboard1 #bfd ,abderites1 give up their soil to frogs1 #bdi ,ablution1 #chb1 #chh ,ablutions1 before supper1 #cgb ,acerr1 vases for perfumes1 #chi ,acetabulum1 vinegar cruet1 #bfd ,acetaria1 pickles of the ancients1 #fd ,achilles turned the spit1 #bec ,acorns1 a primitive food1 #bc 8 eaten by the ,spaniards1 #bd 8 a substitute for wheat1 #bd ,acratism1 breakfast1 #cdb ,acrobats1 known to the ancients1 #cie ,adephagia1 the goddess of good cheer1 #bef ,adrian's regulations respecting cattle1 #abg ,adversitores1 ,roman footmen1 #cgg ,adynamon wine1 #ccd sopus' dish of singing birds1 #aic ,agap1 love feasts1 #cdf ,agricultural ,society of ,england 7the ,royal71 #af1 #daj 8 trophy1 #daa ,agriculture1 #i 8 its origin1 #i 8 developed the industry of the ,jews1 #aa 8 very ancient in ,egypt1 #ab 8 highly respected by the ,roman ,senate1 #ac 8 first treatise on1 #af 8 honours paid to1 #af 8 protected by ,charles ,,ix4 of ,france1 #ah ,a wine1 #ccg ,albanum wine1 #cbi ,albert1 banquets offered to ,h4 ,r4 ,h4 ,prince1 #djc ,alcibiades' banquet1 #cee ,ale1 its ancient reputation1 #cja 8 its curative properties1 #cja 8 how it was made in ,england1 #cjb ,ale1 its price under ,edward ,,ii41 #cjb ,alec1 a kind of brine1 #bdj1 #bga ,alexander the ,great discovered the eschalot1 #hb 8 was fond of apples1 #ajh 8 an admirer of peacocks1 #aff 8 his magnificent banquet1 #ceg 8 his silver arm-chairs1 #cgb ,alfred the ,great a renowned hunter1 #aha ,alisander1 a valuable remedy1 #ia ,almond tree1 #aag 8 a native of ,paphlagonia1 #aag 8 highly valued in the ,east1 #aag 8 how to augment its fertility1 #aag ,almonds1 ,apician preparation of1 #aag 8 eaten before drinking1 #aag 8 oil extracted from1 #aag 8 paste obtained from1 #aah 8 their various uses1 #aah ,alose sauce1 #beh ,alphonso of ,castile1 his repugnance to garlic1 #ha ,amaltha1 the goat1 #bc ,amboise 7,george d'71 ,archbishop of ,rouen1 #agb ,ambrosia1 the food of the gods1 #bc ,amphis1 despised horse-radishes1 #hj ,amphor1 vases used for wine1 #cbh1 #cij ,ampulla1 a crystal bottle1 #bif ,amusements of the guests1 #chc ,anacreon sung parsley1 #hc ,anaphe1 an island desolated by hares1 #ahh ,anchovies1 #bdj 8 how preserved1 #bdj 8 supplied a kind of garum1 #bdj1 #bgj 8 how cooked1 #bda ,andalusia1 renowned for its olives1 #ih ,anecdote1 severity of ,pygmalion1 #abe 8 the eggs of ,petronius1 #bja ,angel-fish1 its size1 #bcg ,anglo-,saxons1 devoted to agriculture1 #ag ,anglo-,saxons1 their rural occupations1 #ag 8 their culinary utensils1 #cdf ,animal food added to vegetables1 #abc 8 when first introduced1 #abd ,animals1 #acc ,anise-seed1 extolled by ,pythagoras1 #hh 8 recommended by ,pliny1 #hh ,anisites wine1 #cca ,anna ,perenna1 a protectress of flocks1 #abh ,antecna1 first course1 #cij ,antidote of ,mithridates1 #aai ,antiphanus1 a patron of quails1 #aig ,antony was fond of fishing1 #bej 8 his liberality towards a cook1 #bef ,apician pork1 #ach ,apicii1 the three1 #bjj ,apicius1 he killed himself1 #ea 8 his gastronomic treatise1 #bjj 8 his prize for a new brine1 #bac 8 his voyage to ,africa1 #bdg 8 his cakes1 #bhi ,apollo was an ichthyophagist1 #baj ,apomeli1 a kind of beverage1 #cje ,appetite1 its three degrees1 #bee ,appius ,claudius' aqueduct1 #bie ,apple tree in ,greece1 #ajh 8 seldom mentioned in ,holy ,writ1 #ajh 8 cultivated by the ,latins1 #aji 8 introduced into ,gaul1 #aji ,apples1 named after eminent personages1 #aji ,apricot tree1 #ajc ,apricots1 their price in ,rome1 #ajc 8 how prepared1 #ajd ,apronian cherry1 #ajc ,apronianus1 his decree respecting the ,roman butchers1 #acj ,aqueducts of ,rome1 #bid ,archestrates1 his culinary meditations1 #bed ,archimagirus1 chief cook1 #bef1 #bfj ,argonauts1 they discovered the pheasant1 #aid ,aristus1 the inventor of oil mills1 #ig 8 8 of cheese1 #agc 8 discovered honey1 #bgc ,aristocracy of ,england1 its munificent hospitality1 #chd ,aristoxenic ham1 #aci ,aristoxenus1 his lettuces1 #gd ,armeniaca1 apricot tree1 #ajc ,artemidorus1 regulated the culinary language1 #bed ,artichoke1 known to the ancients1 #gj 8 despised by ,galen1 #gj 8 sung by ,columella1 #gj ,artichoke1 forgotten during a long period1 #gj 8 their preparation1 #ga 8 how to render them mild1 #ga 8 how preserved1 #ga 8 when introduced into ,england1 #eb ,artificial dishes1 #bfj 8 wines1 #cje ,artocreas1 a kind of pie1 #bfe1 #bhf ,artolaganos1 a kind of bread1 #cb ,artoplites1 #ch ,artopticius panis1 #ch ,arvales brothers1 instituted by ,romulus1 #ac ,asaftida1 esteemed by the ancients1 #ia 8 extraction of its resin1 #ib ,ascalon1 the native place of eschalots1 #hb ,asparagus1 #hd 8 brought from ,asia2 grown at ,ravenna1 #fe 8 ,roman2 their size2 how prepared1 #fe 8 boiled2 how preserved2 hurtful to the sight1 #fe 8 when introduced into ,england1 #eb 8 wine1 #ccc ,ass1 its flesh forbidden to the ,jews2 patronised by ,mecnas1 #aej ,asses used in ,roman mills1 #bf 8 milk beneficial to ,francis ,i41 #afi 8 8 cheese obtained from it1 #agc ,astrologicus panis1 a sort of bread1 #ch ,astydamas1 a great eater1 #cci ,athelstan1 a promoter of the art of venery1 #aha ,athenus praises the ,damascus plum1 #aje ,athenians1 their epicurism1 #abf ,athlet1 fed on figs1 #aac ,atriensis1 hall-keeper1 #cgf ,atrium1 hall1 #cgf ,attalus fond of gardening1 #ei ,attica1 its pomegranates1 #abb ,augurs1 their banquet1 #ceg ,augustus1 cured by lettuces1 #ge 8 was fond of cheese1 #agd 8 his sumptuary regulations1 #cdg ,autopyron1 a coarse bread1 #cg ,aveline1 filbert1 #abj ,avena1 vats1 #bj ,aviaries for thrushes1 #aih 8 ,varro's1 #aih ,aymar's table of massive gold1 #cgj ,azumos1 a sort of bread1 #cb ,babylon1 her celebrated gardens1 #ei ,bacchus1 protector of the grapes2 ripened the figs1 #ie 8 kills a goat1 #abd 8 the same as ,osiris2 cultivated the vine1 #cbb 8 worshipped by the ,romans1 #cbd ,bacon1 a substitute for oil1 #ajj 8 was sold in public-houses1 #ach ,bailli de ,suffren1 a witty epicure1 #cdc ,bain ,marie of the ancients1 #bfb ,bakehouses in ,rome1 #cd ,baker1 of ,king ,pharaoh1 #ca 8 ,greek bakers1 #cb 8 in ,rome1 #cd1 #ce 8 submitted to certain regulations1 #ce 8 under the ,norman kings1 #ch1 #ci 8 in ,france2 how they were admitted at ,paris1 #ci ,bancs1 benches1 #cgd ,banquet of ,geta1 #abf 8 of ,caranus1 #aee 8 of ,charles ,,vi41 #bei 8 of ,alexander the ,great1 #ceg 8 etymology1 #cgd 8 offered to ,napoleon2 to the allied sovereigns1 #djg 8 to ,h4 ,m4 ,queen ,victoria1 #djh 8 on the occasion of the baptism of ,prince ,albert ,duncan1 #dab ,banquets of the ancients1 #cde 8 of ,william the ,conqueror1 #ceb 8 of the ,hebrews1 #ced 8 in the ,temples1 #cee 8 triumphal1 #ceg 8 modern1 #dja1 #djg1 #djh 8 conducive to the prosperity of nations1 #djb 8 offered to ,h4 ,r4 ,h4 ,prince ,albert1 #djc 8 given by the ,reform ,club1 #djh ,barbarossa's pike1 #bbh ,barbers in ,rome1 #chg ,bardakes1 cooling vases1 #big ,barley1 an ignominious food1 #bj 8 a symbol of fertility1 #da 8 gruel1 #da1 #db 8 water1 #db1 #cjd ,basque fishermen1 #bca ,baths in ,rome1 #chg ,bean1 a dismal food2 offered to ,apollo2 served on good tables1 #ec 8 ,egyptian2 ,greek2 royalty of the bean1 #ed ,beaune wine1 #ccf ,beccafico1 #bja1 #bjc ,beef1 #adc 8 l',ibrienne2 la ,sarmate1 #add ,beer1 an ancient beverage1 #bii 8 a substitute for wine1 #cjj ,bees1 under the protection of ,mellona1 #bgc ,beet1 etymology1 #fb 8 preparation1 #fb1 #fc 8 preservation1 #fc 8 a vermifuge1 #fb ,belisarius1 his watermills on the ,tiber1 #bh ,bellaria1 dessert1 #cid ,bellay1 ,bishop of ,mans 7,du71 #bd ,berlanda1 disinherited by her father 7,st471 #cgd ,beuchlingen 7,countess of71 fond of eel-pouts1 #bbi ,beuckels1 the ,dutch fisherman1 #bci ,beverages1 of which water is the foundation1 #bii ,biclinium1 #cgb ,bill of ,fare1 #bfd1 #djd1 #dje1 #dji 8 of an ,english dinner in the #aeth century1 #cfb ,birds1 when served1 #aic 8 a dish of #g1jjj birds1 #bjg 8 mixed with garlands of flowers1 #cid1 #cie ,birds'-nests1 various opinions2 described by ,poivre1 #bje 8 substantial food2 of two sorts1 #bjf ,bittern1 #aih ,black pudding1 #ach 8 sauce of ,lacedmon1 #beb ,blackbirds1 dear to the ,roman epicures2 medicinal properties2 imprisoned by ,louis ,,xi1 #aii ,bl1 wheat1 #ai ,blit1 its insipidity1 #fh ,botia1 produced excellent pomegranates1 #abb 8 renowned for its ducks1 #aeh ,buf-gras1 a fatted ox1 #ade ,bold appetite1 #bee ,boleti1 mushrooms1 #bhc ,bon ,chrtien pear1 #ajg ,books placed in the dining-room1 #cfd ,bordeaux1 its oysters1 #bdd ,botargo1 a preparation from the eggs of mullets1 #bbj ,bourbon coffee1 #caj ,bourriche of oysters1 #bdb ,bouturon1 butter1 #aga ,brahmin women1 worship a cow1 #ade ,braket1 a beverage for the lower classes1 #cjc ,bramble of ,ida1 #aae ,braziers of the ancients1 #cfe ,bread1 how made in the ,east1 #cj 8 without leaven1 #ca 8 of ,athens2 of ,megara1 #cb 8 various kinds in ,greece1 #cb1 #cc 8 baking1 #cc 8 of the athlet1 #cg 8 soaked in vinegar1 #bgh 8 carried round the tables1 #cib ,breakfast of ,galba1 #beg 8 of the ,romans2 of the ,greeks1 #cdb 8 first meal1 #cdd1 #cdi ,brill1 #bcg ,brine1 used to preserve cheese1 #agd 8 from the blood of mackerel1 #bac 8 served at table1 #bfh 8 brought from ,dalmatia1 #bfi ,britons1 paid little attention to agriculture1 #af 8 their frugality1 #ag 8 abstained from the hare1 #ahh 8 8 from fish1 #bad ,brocoli1 esteemed by connoisseurs2 how prepared1 #fi ,brouet1 a ,german dish1 #beh ,bubona1 the goddess of oxen1 #abh ,buccellatum1 biscuit1 #cg ,buffets of the ,romans1 #cfd 8 in the middle ages1 #cfe ,buffon and the truffles1 #bgi ,buffoons1 #chb ,buhl work1 valued by the ancients1 #cfi ,bun1 its probable origin 7,cross71 #bij ,buphonic feast1 #abe ,burgundy wine1 #ccf ,bustard1 #bjf ,butchers in ,greece2 in ,rome2 their patron1 #abi 8 corporations2 regulations1 #acj1 #aca ,butter1 a substitute for oil1 #ajj 8 known in the ,east1 #agj 8 its manipulation2 used for pastry2 served instead of oil2 the food of the barbarians2 a remedy1 #aga 8 how to obtain it instantly2 how to attenuate its rancidity2 its preservation2 burned in lamps1 #agb 8 fried or roasted1 #beh 8 regulations for its sale1 #agb 8 ,tower1 the1 #agb ,butts1 of the ancients1 #cbg ,cabbage1 cured all diseases1 #ej 8 various preparations2 brought into ,gaul2 how preserved1 #fa ,cacabaceus panis1 a kind of bread1 #ch ,cadmus1 the culinary tutor of a king1 #bec ,csar1 served with bad oil1 #ii 8 sumptuary regulations1 #cdg ,cake1 devoured by an ox1 #abe ,cakes of the ancients1 #bhe ,caligula1 made his own apotheosis1 #afe 8 his expedition against ,britain1 #bda ,calves1 how fed1 #adc ,cambis devoured his wife1 #cci ,camels'-milk cheese1 #agc 8 flesh1 #aij ,cameline sauce1 #beg ,campanian bacon1 #adj 8 wines1 #ccc ,canard1 a ,french1 #aeh ,candelabra1 #chi ,cantabria1 renowned for hams1 #acg ,cantibaris1 his stupendous gluttony1 #cdj ,capers1 left to the people2 how prepared1 #ia ,capitolian pig's liver1 #adj ,capon1 first introduced1 #aed 8 la dliaque1 #aee ,cappadocians1 venerated water1 #bic ,capre1 excesses of1 #abf ,capsarii1 attendants in the ,roman baths1 #chg ,caracas cocoa1 #cac ,caranus1 a ,greek epicure2 his wedding repast1 #aee1 #ahf ,carenum1 cooked wine1 #cbf ,caria1 its oil1 #ih ,carp1 held in estimation2 how cooked2 its size2 its fecundity2 its longevity2 where naturalised1 #bbi ,carrots1 much esteemed2 how prepared1 #fh ,carthaginian chariot1 #ae 8 apples1 #abb ,cartier 7,jacques71 #bca ,carver1 #cgg ,carvilius1 an artist in buhl-work1 #cfi ,carving1 art of2 with music1 #bfj ,castella aquarum1 large water basins1 #bie ,castor1 trained horses1 #agi ,catalonia1 celebrated for hams1 #acg ,catesby1 his opinion of the flamingo1 #bja ,catinus1 a vase1 #bfc ,cato1 noticed the fig tree1 #aad 8 sold his old slaves1 #bjh 8 his recipe for a cake1 #bhg ,cattle mentioned in the ,mosaic law2 valued by the ,romans2 rearing of cattle1 #abg 8 markets of the ,hebrews2 of the ,greeks1 #abh 8 of the ,romans1 #abi ,cattle1 feeding of1 #abh ,cauliflowers unknown in ,england before ,charles ,,ii41 #eb ,caviar1 how prepared2 of two sorts1 #bag ,cayenne coffee1 #caj ,cecilian cherry1 #ajc ,celer1 the price he gave for a red mullet1 #bac ,cellars of the ancients1 #cbf ,celtiberia1 swarming with rabbits1 #ahi ,cereals1 #ai1 #bb 8 name of a feast2 when discovered1 #bb ,ceres1 the goddess of agriculture1 #i1 #ac 8 a queen of ,sicily1 #bd 8 gave the fig tree to ,phytalus1 #aac 8 killed the first pig1 #abd 8 was presented with milk1 #afi ,cerevisia1 beer1 #cjj ,chafing-dishes1 #bfb ,chailly1 bread of1 #ci ,chairs used by the ,greeks1 #cah ,chalices of the ,greeks1 #cgb 8 of amber1 #cba ,champagne wine1 #cc ,champignon sausages1 #cij ,charcutier1 pork butcher1 #acb ,charlemagne's kitchen-garden1 #ea 8 silver tables1 #cgj ,charles ,,vi4 of ,france2 his wedding banquet1 #bei 8 poisoned by mushrooms1 #bhb ,charles ,,ix4 of ,france2 his edict in favour of agriculture1 #ah 8 an admirer of turkeys1 #ahe ,charles ,x4 of ,france2 his coronation banquet1 #djh ,cheese1 #afh 8 mentioned by ,aristotle1 #aga 8 invented by ,aristus2 known to the ,hebrews2 a military aliment2 various sorts2 given to the ,greek wrestlers1 #agc 8 preserved in brine2 ,tromelian2 la ,bithynienne1 #agd ,cherips1 invented a new dish1 #bhj ,cherry tree1 cultivated by ,mithridates2 introduced by ,lucullus1 #ajb 8 propagated in ,italy1 #ajc ,cherries praised1 #ajb 8 when served2 various kinds2 8 cherry wine1 #ajc ,chervil1 how prepared1 #hd ,chestnuts1 preparation of2 oil extracted1 #aba 8 kept green all the year1 #abb ,chestnut tree1 its native place1 #aba ,chickens1 sacred1 #aef ,chickens1 hatched in ovens2 la ,clienne2 la ,frontonienne1 #aeg ,chicory1 mixed with coffee1 #caa ,chimneys known to the ancients1 #bfa 8 unknown to the ,hebrews1 #cfe ,chinese1 their respect for agriculture1 #ae ,chios wine1 #cbh1 #ccj ,chiron1 a pupil of ,diana1 #agi ,chocolat de sant1 #cac ,chocolate1 #cab 8 used by the ,mexicans1 #cac 8 a favourite food in ,spain2 its properties2 when introduced into ,france1 #cad ,christmas bread1 #dj ,christmas feasts under ,richard ,,ii41 #cea ,chrodegand1 ,bishop of ,metz1 #bd ,cicero's valuable tables1 #cfi ,cider maker1 #cjd ,cinara metamorphosed into an artichoke1 #gj ,cinnamon1 its mysterious growing1 #bge 8 its scarcity2 from ,china2 offered as a present1 #bgf ,cisalpine preserve1 #ade ,city of ,london1 its ancient gastronomic profusion1 #cea ,civilis panis1 a kind of bread1 #ch ,clarence's wedding repast 7,duke of71 #cea ,clarey1 an ,english drink1 #cch ,claudius1 his guests1 #beg 8 poisoned by mushrooms1 #bhb 8 his voracity1 #cdj ,clement ,,vii4 poisoned by mushrooms1 #bhb ,clerks' wine1 #ccg ,clerks' feeding in the #afth century1 #cdh ,cloths1 dimensions of table2 cutting away the table cloth1 #cgd ,cloves1 #bgf ,clovis1 his politeness1 #chd ,club of ,roman epicures1 #bdc ,cock1 consecrated to ,mars2 cock-fight in ,greece2 in ,italy1 #aec 8 white1 proclaimed the hours1 #aed ,cocoa-nut1 #cab ,cod-fishing2 weight2 fecundity1 #bca1 #bcb 8 how dressed1 #bca ,clia1 beer1 #bjj ,cna1 supper1 of various descriptions1 #cef1 #ceg ,cnaculum1 dining-room1 #cfc ,cur1 introduced the turkey 7,jacques71 #afe ,coffee1 of various kinds2 its introduction1 #caj 8 when mentioned2 its properties1 #caa ,coffee when drunk in ,italy2 in ,london2 in ,paris2 in ,sweden2 a slow poison2 with milk1 #cab ,collation1 #cdb1 #cdd 8 of the ,romans1 #cdc 8 of ,lucullus1 #cdh ,colum nivarium1 snow cullender1 #bif1 #cbg 8 vinarium1 wine strainer1 #cca ,colymbades1 a kind of olives1 #ih ,comissatio1 a sort of 8wake01 #cde ,comus1 his portrait1 #cee ,conflagration of ,rome1 #cif ,conger-eel1 bestowing immortality2 of a considerable size1 #bbf 8 culinary preparation1 #bbf ,conntable1 a celebrated orange tree1 #aab ,conon's banquet1 #cee ,conviva1 guest1 #cha ,cookery1 ancient1 #bff 8 exposed to unjust reproaches1 #bea ,cooks1 #bea 8 ,greek1 #abf 8 from ,sicily1 #bef1 #cdd 8 erratic1 #bfe 8 how rewarded1 #bef 8 in the middle ages1 #bei 8 of ,louis ,,xiv41 #bae1 #bef 8 his qualities1 #beb ,coriander used to preserve meat1 #dg ,corinth1 its quinces1 #ajf ,cormorant1 #aic ,corn1 its aboriginal country1 #bb 8 various kinds1 #ai 8 best2 ,roman law1 #ba 8 cutting1 #ad 8 grinding1 #bc1 #be 8 its preservation1 #ae ,cornelian law1 #cdg ,corporation of butchers1 #acj ,cos1 its poultry1 #aed 8 wine1 #cbh ,cossi1 large worms1 #bfe ,couches for the repasts1 #cgb 8 of some emperors1 #cgc 8 in the middle ages1 #cgd ,counts of ,anjou1 introduced the plum tree1 #aje ,courses1 #cfb 8 their number1 #cde1 #cij1 #cia ,cow1 worshipped by ,brahmin women1 #ade 8 milk2 cheese1 #agc ,condiments1 #bgb ,crab1 its seasoning2 sausages2 stuffed1 #bdh ,cranaus mixed water with wine1 #cbc ,crane1 #aic ,crater1 a cup1 #cia ,crawfish1 #bdg ,crayfish1 seasoning2 from ,alexandria2 how preserved1 #bdh ,crdences1 dressers1 #cfe ,cross-bun1 #bij ,crow1 #aic1 #bjg ,crowns of thrushes1 #aih 8 for the guests1 #cia ,crucifixion1 the punishment of slaves1 #bjh ,cruet1 #bfd ,crystal1 malleable1 #bah ,crystal ,palace1 the1 #djb ,cubicularii1 valets1 #cgg ,cucumber1 plentiful in ,egypt2 from ,antioch2 marvellous properties1 #gb 8 protects all kinds of seeds2 preparation2 preservation1 #gc ,cummin1 #ia ,cups1 #bfc1 #caf 8 in the ,homeric ages1 #cag 8 variety of shapes1 #cah1 #cba 8 of praise1 #cfi 8 modern1 #djg 8 bearer1 #cgh ,curlew1 #bjg ,curmi1 beer1 #bii ,cuttle-fish1 #bcd ,cuvier1 on the ,pentateuch1 #i ,cybele1 her repugnance to garlic1 #ha 8 patroness of the pine1 #ie ,cythnus1 renowned for cheese1 #agd ,dalmatia1 its brine1 #bfi ,damascus plum trees1 #aje ,dampier1 his opinion of the phenicopter1 #bja ,daphne1 its thrushes1 #aig ,dapiferi1 servants1 #cgg ,darioles1 a kind of pastry1 #bib ,dates1 from ,judea2 how preserved2 various preparations2 honey from the dates1 #aja ,dauphin of ,france1 his style of living in the #adth century1 #cdh ,death of ,vatel1 #bae ,decapolis1 its olives1 #ih ,dcimer1 or ,dcimheure1 dinner1 #cdi ,decree of ,apronianus1 #acj ,deer1 #ahd 8 la ,marcellus1 #ahe ,defrutum1 boiled wine1 #cbf ,denarius1 inclosed within a truffle 7,roman71 #bgi ,dessert1 #cid ,diamond1 a fish1 #bcg ,diana1 taught ,chiron1 #agi ,dies epulat1 festivals1 #bij ,digestive garum1 #bgb 8 salts1 #bfi ,dill1 its properties1 #hh ,dining-room1 its decoration1 #cfc 8 of ,nero1 #cfd ,dinner1 #cdb1 #cdd1 #cdi 8 served to ,t4 ,quintus1 #acf 8 of the ,jews1 #cdb ,diogenes1 his earthen vase1 #cbg ,diomus kills an ox1 #abe ,diphilus fond of cherries1 #ajb ,diploma1 double vase1 #bfb ,dishes of the ancients1 #bfa 8 thirty thousand1 at a banquet1 #ceb ,dispensator1 steward1 #cgf ,distribution of wheat1 #ba 8 of oil1 #ii 8 of pork-meat1 #acj ,dodine sauce1 #beh ,dog1 a relishing dish1 #aej 8 nailed to a cross1 #aea 8 trained by ,pollux1 #agi 8 names of hunting dogs2 their qualities1 #ahj ,dolia1 wine vessels1 #cbg ,dolphins1 #bae ,dolyres1 a kind of bread1 #cc ,domingo ,coffee 7,st471 #caj ,domitian1 his turbot1 #bbd ,dorio1 a wit1 #bbe 8 an epicure1 #bbf ,dormice1 how prepared1 #cij ,doubliers1 table-cloths1 #cge ,dove1 an emblem of sweet virtues1 #afb ,dragon-weaver1 #bcg ,dressers1 in the middle ages1 #cfe ,drinking1 #chc 8 in ,roman banquets1 #cib 8 to the good genius1 #cif 8 cups1 #caf 8 horns1 #cah ,druids1 their respect for the oak1 #bd ,drunkards among the ancients1 #caf ,drusus fond of brocoli1 #fi 8 favourite starling1 #bjj 8 daughter1 and the sea-eels1 #bad ,duck1 an antidote2 its flesh2 sacrificed to ,neptune2 from ,botia2 served on good tables1 #aeh 8 parts offered2 brains l',epicurienne2 seasoning1 #aei ,dulce wine1 #ccj ,dumplings of ,athens1 #he ,dutertre1 his opinion of the phenicopter1 #bja ,eagles1 distribution of1 #dab ,easter eggs1 #agh ,eaters of renown1 #cdj ,eau-bnite sauce1 #beh ,echansons1 #cgh ,echaud bread1 #ci ,eclectic appetite1 #bee ,eden1 garden of1 #i ,edgar1 a destroyer of wolves 7,king71 #aha ,ediles of ,rome1 #cee ,edward the ,confessor1 fond of hunting1 #aha 8 his sumptuary laws1 #cej ,eel1 worshipped in ,egypt2 esteemed by the ,greeks2 by the ,sybarites2 despised by the ,romans2 noticed by ,apicius2 how prepared2 sacrificed to the ,gods2 how served2 its enemies2 served at ,rockingham's banquet1 #bbg 8 its fabulous length1 #bac1 #bbh ,eel-pout1 its liver1 #bbi 8 its reputation1 #bac ,eggs1 #afh 8 venerated by some philosophers1 #age 8 primitive2 when served2 cooked without fire2 seen in dreams2 symbol of the universe2 carried with pomp1 #agf 8 soft boiled2 la ,romaine2 l',epnte2 l',athnienne2 la ,macdonienne2 aux ,roses1 #agg 8 pudding2 red1 #agh 8 cooked on the spit1 #beh 8 ,easter1 #agh ,egypt1 the granary of the empire1 #ab 8 supplied the best vinegar1 #bgh ,egyptians abhorred the pig1 #acd 8 esteemed the ox1 #adb 8 their veneration for the kid1 #adh 8 fond of fish1 #baa 8 their respect for the sea-eel1 #bbb 8 for water1 #bic 8 consumed a great deal of bread1 #cdj 8 wreaths1 #cid ,elephant1 its flesh2 its feet2 trunk1 #aia 8 dancing elephants2 la ,troyenne1 #aib ,elizabeth1 fond of geese 7,queen71 #aei ,emphractum1 an ,apician dish1 #bdb ,endive1 differently appreciated2 curative qualities1 #ge 8 how prepared1 #gf ,entrails of the scarus1 #bbd 8 of the tunny-fish1 #bbe ,entremets1 #chc1 #che ,epicurean dish in the olden times1 #cea ,epicurus1 #djj ,epimeletes1 a ,greek magistrate1 #abi ,erichthonius1 king of ,athens1 #abe ,eschalots1 by whom discovered1 #hb ,escharites1 a kind of bread1 #cc ,etiquette in the #afth century1 #cec ,eumenes encouraged the rearing of pigs 7,king71 #acf ,exeter banquet1 #daj ,exhibition of #ahea1 #af1 #djb ,extravagance ,culinaire1 #djf ,falcon1 #aid ,falernian wine1 #cbi ,fannius1 the consul1 #cha ,fare1 bills of1 #djd1 #dje1 #dji ,fattening of poultry1 #aed 8 of geese1 #afa 8 of turkeys1 #afe ,feast in honour of ,ceres1 #cef ,feathered game1 #aic ,feathers thrown before the door1 #ceh ,fcule1 flour1 #bb ,feeding of cattle1 #abh 8 of clerks in the #afth century1 #cdh ,fennel used to restore the sight1 #hh ,festival of ,st4 ,ulric1 #bae ,fte of the distribution of eagles1 #dab ,fig-pecker1 how prepared1 #bja ,fig-tree dear to ,bacchus1 #ie 8 a tree of ,eden1 #aab 8 planted at ,athens1 #aac 8 varieties2 brought war on ,attica1 #aad ,figs1 abounded in ,canaan1 #aab 8 exportation interdicted2 an article of trade in ,jerusalem2 valued by the ,hebrews2 food of the athlet2 favourite food of ,plato2 of ,attica2 served to ,persian kings1 #aac 8 noticed by ,cato2 planted in the forum2 food for entire armies1 #aad 8 how served1 #aae ,filbert1 #abj ,file-fish1 #bcg ,fillet of pork la ,botienne1 #aci ,fish permitted to the ,jews1 #baj 8 served to ,queen ,gatis2 despised by the heroes of ,homer1 #baa 8 ,athenian law on1 #bab 8 disliked by the ,britons1 #bad ,fish1 of two hundred cubits1 #bac 8 mania1 #bad 8 prepared in the shape of game2 its consumption in former times2 its vogue under ,louis ,,xiv41 #bae 8 ponds1 #bbj 8 hooks1 #bdi 8 preservation of2 piscin on the roofs of houses1 #bej ,fishermen1 #bdi ,fishing1 #bdi ,fishmongers of ,athens1 #bab 8 supplying royal tables1 #bae ,flabellarii1 servants1 #cgg ,flamingo's tongue1 #bjj 8 little known in ,europe1 #bja ,flesh most in fashion in the age of ,homer1 #abe ,flocks of the patriarchs1 #abg 8 of the eastern nations1 #adf ,flounder1 #bcg ,flour1 its manipulation1 #cj ,flowers used by the guests1 #chc 8 spread over the table1 #chi ,focarii1 stokers1 #cgh ,fontainebleau1 its orange tree1 #aab ,fontenelle1 his answer to ,madame ,helvtius1 #cha ,food1 primitive1 #cde 8 animal1 #abc ,forks1 #bfc ,fornax1 a goddess1 #cd ,forum pistrinum1 the bread market1 #cg ,fountains of the ancients1 #bid 8 in dining-rooms1 #cff 8 spouting various liquors1 #cfg1 #che ,fowls flavoured at will1 #afa ,fox1 #aij ,francis ,i41 how cured1 #afi ,francis of ,paulo introduces a pear 7,st471 #ajg ,fraternity of free-livers1 #bgj ,french wine1 its price in ,england1 #cch ,fricatores1 servants1 #chg ,fritters1 #bhe ,frogs had no repute among the ancients2 in fashion in ,paris2 eaten in ,germany2 disdained in ,england1 #bdi ,fruits1 the primitive food2 ,hebrew legislation2 how eaten1 #ie 8 how preserved1 #if 8 when served1 #if1 #ig ,fruit-trees on the house tops1 #if ,frumenta1 #da ,funereal banquet1 #ceg ,furfuraceus panis1 a sort of bread1 #ch ,furrows1 their length1 #ah ,gala of the pagan pontiffs1 #cef ,galactophagists1 drinkers of milk1 #afh ,galba's breakfast1 #beg 8 gastronomic profusion1 #cda ,galen1 his opinion of the pear1 #ajg ,game1 feathered1 #aic 8 its preservation1 #aid 8 fabulous expenses for1 #bjg 8 abundant in ,ithaca1 #cci 8 permitted to the ,hebrews1 #aic ,gardening in ,great ,britain1 #ag 8 known at an early period1 #ei ,gardens1 of ,babylon2 of ,alcinous2 ,roman1 #ei ,garlic1 a god in ,egypt2 a military food2 given to cocks2 used by countrymen2 proscribed by a ,king of ,castile1 #ha 8 its virtues2 how to render it milder1 #hb ,garoe1 a curious tree1 #bih ,garos1 a shrimp1 #bgj ,garum1 #bac1 #bfi 8 sociorum2 #bcf1 #bgj 8 obtained from anchovies1 #bdj 8 procured from ,spain1 #bdc 8 its price2 from shrimps2 from mackerel2 of the allies2 from tunny-fish2 from the red mullet1 #bgj 8 from saxatile fish2 its preparation2 used as a seasoning2 from various animals1 #bga 8 its modifications2 digestive1 #bgb 8 used in ,turkey1 #bgc ,garus1 a shrimp1 #bgj ,gastronomy1 where it has flourished1 #abf 8 the offspring of appetite and sensuality1 #baj 8 promotes friendship1 #djb ,gatis1 ,queen of ,syria1 #baa ,gaul1 renowned for hams1 #acg ,gauls1 enticed by the figs of ,italy1 #aad ,geese1 saved the ,capitol1 #aea 8 appreciated by the ancients2 their prudence2 honoured by the ,britons1 #aei 8 kept in the ,capitol2 a symbol of safety2 fattening1 #afj1 #afa ,gelatine sauce1 #beh ,gellia1 anecdote of1 #ahi ,george ,,iv41 his coronation banquet1 #djh ,geta's banquet1 #abf 8 alphabetical dishes1 #beg ,getes1 drinkers of milk1 #afh ,gills of mullets1 #bai ,ginger1 #ib 8 bread1 #dj 8 known to the ancients1 #bhe ,gladiators1 fighting to amuse the guests1 #cif ,globi1 a kind of pastry1 #bhh ,gloucestershire1 renowned for its wines1 #ccf ,goat1 killed by ,bacchus1 #abd ,gold-fish1 how dressed2 gave its name to ,sergius1 #bcj ,golden age1 dietetic of the1 #abd 8 apples1 #aji ,gods of the sea1 #bid ,gonesse1 bread of1 #ci ,goose's liver1 #afj1 #afa ,goose la ,gauloise2 served on ,michaelmas day1 #afa ,gorgor introduces honey into ,spain1 #bgc ,goslings1 in repute among the ,greeks1 #aei 8 how fattened1 #afj ,gourd1 brought from ,india2 how prepared and preserved2 from ,antioch1 #ff ,grain1 spread on the furrows1 #ad ,grains1 #df ,granada1 its olives1 #ih ,granatum1 pomegranate1 #abb 8 wine1 #cca ,granea1 how prepared1 #bj ,grapes1 offered to ,bacchus1 #ie 8 served on the ,roman tables1 #cbe 8 preserved1 #cbe ,grass1 a primitive seat1 #cfh ,grasshoppers1 #bfe1 #cij ,greek-nut1 #aag ,greeks1 fond of agriculture1 #aa 8 their cattle-markets1 #abh 8 eat dogs1 #aea 8 laid the foundation of ,ichthyophagy1 #baa ,grinding of corn1 #bc ,grinding-stones1 by whom invented1 #bd1 #be 8 used by ancient nations1 #be ,grindstones1 of porous lava1 #bh ,gruel1 of the ,romans1 #cc1 #cd ,gudgeon1 #bch 8 when served2 seasoning1 #bci ,guests1 #cfh 8 their places1 #cgb 8 their number1 #cha ,guinea hen1 native place2 la ,numide1 #afc 8 sacrificed to ,caligula1 #afe ,guiseau1 a kind of eel1 #bbh ,haddock1 served with pomp1 #bcf ,halec1 a kind of brine1 #bdj ,hall1 atrium1 #cgf ,hall-keeper1 atriensis1 #cgf ,halmades1 a kind of olives1 #ih ,hams1 when served1 #acg ,hand-mills1 #be ,hare1 how prepared2 forbidden to the ,jews2 abounded in ,greece1 #ahh ,hare's down used for couches1 #cgc ,haricots1 introduced by ,alexander1 #ee 8 when served1 #ef ,harold1 the ,british ,nimrod 7,king71 #ahb ,hazel-nut1 #abj ,healths1 how drank1 #chc1 #cic1 #cid ,hebrews1 their cattle-markets1 #abh 8 their use of wine1 #cbc ,hedgehog1 #aij ,heliogabalus1 fond of pheasants1 #aie 8 thrushes and ostrichs's brains1 #aii1 #bjd 8 was served with gills of mullets1 #bai 8 gorged the pheasants with an expensive delicacy1 #bba 8 his couches1 #cgc 8 his childish espigleries1 #cgc 8 biography1 #djj ,hempseed1 #dh ,hen of ,numidia1 #afc ,henry ,i4 of ,england1 his death1 #bbb ,hens1 proscribed by ,c4 ,fannius1 #aed 8 aviaries2 inauspicious cackling2 feeding1 #aee1 #aef 8 worshipped1 #age 8 of ,adria2 eggs1 #agg ,hercules1 the patron of butchers1 #abi 8 a powerful hunter1 #agi 8 resuscitated by a quail1 #aif ,heroes of ,homer1 fond of animal food1 #abf 8 their culinary talents1 #bec ,heron1 #aic1 #aid ,herring1 unknown to the ancients2 caught on the coast of ,scotland2 sold by the ,dutch1 #bci 8 how preserved1 #bdj ,hesperides apples1 #aji ,hippocrates1 prejudiced against beans1 #ec ,hippolochus1 a defender of quails1 #aig ,hirpinus's park1 #aha 8 fish-ponds1 #bdc ,hirtius1 celebrated for his fish-ponds1 #bbj 8 his sea-eels1 #bba ,hirundo esculenta1 sea-swallow1 #bje ,hog la ,troyenne1 #acf ,homer1 his heroes1 #abf 8 his poem in favour of thrushes1 #aig ,honey1 discovered by ,aristus2 its qualities2 introduced into ,spain2 recommended by ,pythagoras2 produced by the air2 by flowers1 #bgc 8 by reeds2 from ,attica2 when served2 seasoning1 #cgd 8 obtained from dates1 #aja ,honeyed wine1 #aca ,hpital1 prohibits the sale of pies 7,chancelier de l'71 #bij ,horace1 fond of parsley1 #hc 8 peacocks1 #agf ,hordeum1 barley1 #bj ,horns1 used for cups1 #cah ,hors-d'uvre1 #cha ,horse-radish despised2 various sorts2 preparation of the seed1 #hj 8 spoils the teeth1 #ha 8 its properties1 #hj1 #ha ,horses1 trained by ,castor1 #agi ,hortensius1 the first who served a peacock1 #afg 8 his park1 #aha 8 wept over the death of a fish1 #bad ,hospitality1 described by ,apollodorus1 #cee 8 of the ,english aristocracy1 #chd ,hot-houses1 known to the ancients1 #id 8 wine1 #cic ,hunting1 its antiquity1 #agi 8 of the ancients1 #ahj 8 permitted by the ,roman law2 in ,england1 #aha1 #ahb ,hydromel1 #cjd ,hydromelon1 #cje ,hydrorosatum1 #cje ,hyperbius1 son of ,mars1 #abd ,hypotrimma1 a stomachic condiment1 #bgb ,hyssop1 its virtues1 #hh1 #hi 8 wine1 #ccd ,ibrahim ,pacha1 entertained by the ,reform ,club1 #djh ,ice1 how obtained2 from the ,alps2 ice-houses1 #bie ,iced beverages1 #bif ,ichthyophagy1 #baj 8 of the ,greeks2 of the ,romans1 #bjh ,ichthyophilists1 #bab ,imperial sausages1 #ada ,incrustations1 for tables1 #cfh ,indolent appetite1 #bee ,innkeepers1 #ccf ,intoxication1 not unfashionable with the ancients1 #cag 8 in the middle ages1 #ccg 8 punished in ,france1 #ccg1 #cch ,invitation to dinner1 #chg ,irrigation of gardens1 #ei ,israelites1 fed on quails1 #aif 8 their public repasts1 #cdf ,ivory tables1 #cid ,james ,i4 and lamb's fleece1 #ahb ,janus planted the vine in ,italy1 #cbc ,jews1 devoted to agriculture1 #aj 8 abstained from the pig1 #acd 8 8 hare1 #ahh ,judea1 its fertility1 #ab 8 produced excellent dates1 #aja ,jugglers1 #chd1 #cie ,jupiter1 his stratagem against the ,gauls1 #cc 8 suckled by a sow1 #acd ,jus ,nigrum1 black sauce1 of ,lacedmon1 #beb ,keneffes1 ,german1 #beh ,kervynge1 the ,booke of1 #cgj ,kid1 venerated by the ,egyptians2 a favourite dish with the ,hebrews2 the ,greeks2 of ,attica1 #adh 8 ,sicily2 ,tivoli2 various preparations1 #adi ,king of the banquet1 #chc ,kirschen-wasser1 #ajc ,kitchen1 ancient remains1 #bei 8 description1 #bfj 8 in the middle ages1 #cec ,kitchen-garden1 #ei ,knives1 #bfd ,ladies1 fond of oysters 7,roman71 #bdd 8 forbidden to drink wine1 #ccb ,lady of the lamb1 #adh ,lamb1 offered in sacrifice2 ,paschal1 #adf 8 a luxury2 in repute among the ancients2 various preparations1 #adg ,lamprey1 dried up by the sun2 stops a vessel2 its high price1 #bbb 8 killed in ,candian wine2 how prepared1 #bbc 8 compared to quails1 #bbd ,lares1 household gods1 #cij ,lark1 #bjg ,latona1 presented with leeks1 #gg ,leaven1 known to the ,jews1 #ca 8 how used by the ,greeks1 #cc 8 different kinds1 #cf ,lecticarii1 servants1 #cgh ,leek1 an ,egyptian divinity2 cured numerous diseases2 how prepared2 how to make them acquire an extraordinary size2 they are offered to ,latona1 #gg ,legislation1 concerning the ,roman slaves1 #bji ,lemon tree1 its origin1 #aji 8 received from ,persia1 #aaj 8 used for tables and beds1 #aaj1 #cfh ,lemons1 considered as a counter-poison2 how preserved2 lemon-peel1 a digestive1 #aaj ,lentils1 etymology2 known to the ,hebrews2 appreciated by the ,egyptians2 by the ,greeks2 not in high repute with the ,romans2 supposed to soften the temper1 #eg 8 an ill-omened food2 a funereal vegetable1 #eh ,lesbos wine1 #cbh ,lettuce1 eaten by the ,hebrews2 its narcotic virtue2 irrigated with wine2 served with eggs1 #gd 8 how prepared1 #ge ,le ,vaillant1 his opinion of the elephant's feet and trunk1 #aia ,libations1 #cij ,libum1 a sort of cake1 #bhg ,liburnian oil1 #ajj ,licinian law respecting cattle1 #abg 8 concerning the ,roman diet1 #ea ,licinius ,murna1 #bbj ,lighting of the ancients1 #cff ,linseed1 #dh ,liqueur wine1 #ccb1 #ccd ,list of the repast1 #bfd ,liver of the red mullet1 #bac ,livia and the sorceress1 #agf 8 fond of good wine1 #ccb ,livio contrived to fatten peacocks1 #afg ,loach1 how dressed in ,italy1 #bch ,loaves1 ,roman1 #cg ,lobster1 a favourite dish1 #bdg 8 how prepared1 #bdh ,loligo1 how served1 #bcg ,louis ,,xi imprisons blackbirds1 #aii 8 ,,xiv41 his public repasts1 #cdi 8 his dinners1 #cej 8 suppers1 #cej ,lucanian sausages1 #ach1 #adj ,lucrinus1 a lake renowned for its fish1 #bdc ,lucullian ham1 #aci ,lucullus1 introduced the cherry tree1 #ajb 8 his park1 #aha 8 fed thrushes1 #aii 8 brought up the sea to his gardens1 #bac 8 his ambigu to ,cicero and ,pompey1 #beg1 #cdh ,lupin1 used for cattle1 #dg 8 etymology1 #dh ,lutatian cherry1 #ajc ,luxury of the ,romans1 #cef ,lycurgus commanded little children to fast1 #beb 8 destroyed the vines of ,lacedmon1 #cbc ,lysimachus1 his tax on salt1 #bfg ,macdoine ,germanique of milk1 #agj ,macedonia1 its giant pigs1 #acf 8 of chickens1 #aeg ,macedonian pork1 #ach ,mackerel1 #bce 8 its dangerous appetite2 supplied a sort of garum1 #bcf1 #bgj 8 appreciated by the ancients1 #bcf 8 etymology1 #bce 8 furnished a valuable brine1 #bac ,madidus panis1 a sort of cosmetic1 #ch ,mecnas introduced the flesh of the ass1 #aej ,magiric science1 its beginnings1 #abc ,mahomedans abstain from the pig1 #acd ,majordomo1 #bfj ,mallows1 their properties2 in high renown2 among the ancient acetaria2 how prepared2 served as a salad1 #fd ,mamertinum wine1 #cbi ,manlius1 his trick with the ,gauls1 #cc ,manure1 ,greek and ,roman1 #ad 8 obtained from thrushes1 #aih ,maple1 used for tables1 #cfh ,maragnon cocoa1 #cac ,mares' milk cheese1 #agc ,marionettes with the ancients1 #cie ,marjoram wine 7wild71 #ccc ,markets1 #abh ,market-bell1 #bab ,marl1 used as manure1 #ad ,martinique coffee1 #caj ,mary ,stuart's supper1 #chc ,mauviette1 a species of lark1 #bjg ,meals1 their number1 #cdb ,meat1 preserved without salt1 #aca 8 sold by mication1 #abi 8 given by guests to their servants1 #cid ,median apples1 #aji ,mediastini1 servants1 #chg ,megalartus1 taught to knead flour1 #cb ,meilleraye1 his bill for vinegar 7,duke de ,la71 #bgh ,meleager1 mourned by turkeys1 #afd ,meleagrides1 turkeys1 #afd ,melitates1 a sort of pastry1 #cc1 #bhe ,mellona1 the protectress of bees1 #bgc ,melon1 #gg 8 from ,asia2 perfumed by the ,greeks2 appreciated in ,rome2 how to render it milder2 its ,hygienic qualities2 how prepared2 brought from ,italy1 #gh ,mercury was presented with milk1 #afi ,merenda1 #cdc ,mication1 used for the sale of meat1 #abi ,michaelmas day1 goose served at dinner1 #afa ,michaux1 a botanist1 #ai 8 brought peas into repute1 #ef ,miletus1 the inventor of grinding-stones1 #be ,milk1 #afh 8 a primitive food1 #abc 8 an emblem of fertility2 the principal food of several nations1 #afh 8 offered to ,ceres2 to ,mercury2 its qualities1 #afi 8 ,macdoine ,germanique of1 #agj 8 mixed with coffee1 #cab ,millers1 their festival 7,roman71 #bf ,millet1 #dc 8 used for making cakes1 #bj ,millium1 millet1 #bj ,mills introduced to ,rome1 #be 8 of the ancients2 hydraulic mills2 mentioned by ,vitruvius1 #bg 8 where invented2 constructed by ,belisarius2 description2 known in ,england1 #bh 8 wind-mills1 #bi ,milo1 a notorious eater1 #adc1 #cci ,minerva1 the patroness of the olive tree1 #ie 8 produced the olive tree1 #ig ,minos1 his sumptuary laws1 #cdf ,mint1 formerly a young girl2 prevented milk from curdling1 #ij 8 wine1 #ccc ,minturn1 the retreat of ,apicius1 #bdg ,mirabelle plums1 #aje ,misor taught the art of seasoning1 #bfg ,mithcus1 a magiric writer1 #bed ,mithridates cultivated the cherry tree1 #ajb 8 his antidote1 #aai 8 his opinion of the duck1 #aeh ,mocha coffee1 #caj ,mola1 a goddess1 #be1 #bf ,monsieur1 plums of1 #aje ,morel1 a sort of mushroom1 #bhb ,moretaria1 a stomachic condiment1 #bgb ,mortars1 used to pound the grain1 #bd1 #be ,mosaic law1 concerning cattle1 #abg ,moses1 promoted agriculture1 #aa1 #cbb ,mostecham sauce1 #beh ,mountebanks enlivening the banquets1 #cdd ,mot sauce1 #beh ,mugil1 how dressed1 #bce ,mulberry tree1 its wisdom2 a native of ,canaan2 its juice and wine1 #aaf ,mullet1 red1 #bah 8 killed on the table1 #bac1 #bah 8 in brine1 #bac 8 anecdote of ,philoxenus1 #bah 8 how cooked2 its price1 #bah 8 its liver and head2 weight1 #bai ,mulsum wine1 cure for head-ache1 #cca ,murna1 sea-eel1 #bjh 8 dear to ,hortensius1 #bad ,murrhine vases1 #cai ,muria1 brine2 dura2 a convivial punishment1 #bfi ,muses1 protected the palm-tree1 #ie1 #ajj ,mushrooms1 the dish of the gods2 their poisonous effects2 relished by the ancients1 #bhb 8 how they are grown1 #bhc ,musicians1 symphoniaci1 #chi ,mussels1 praised by the ancients1 served to the gods2 how seasoned1 #bde ,mustaceum of the ,romans1 #bhf ,mustard1 #df 8 etymology1 #df1 #dg 8 a remedy against venomous serpents1 #df ,myrrhinum wine1 #cca ,myrtites wine1 #cje ,myrtle wine1 #ccd ,napkins used by the ancients1 #cge ,naples1 its good cheer1 #abf ,napoleon ,i41 his coronation banquet1 #djg ,nero's iced water1 #cje 8 dining-room1 #cfc 8 he sets fire to ,rome1 #cfi 8 biographical note1 #cii ,nestor's cup1 #cag ,nets1 #bdi ,new year eggs1 #agh ,nicolas of ,damascus1 his dates1 #aja ,nicomachus and his estate1 #agg ,nicomedes and his cook1 #dd1 #de ,noisettes1 hazel nuts1 #abj ,nomenculatores1 servants1 #cgg ,northumberland 7,duke of71 his munificence1 #djh ,nougat of the ancients1 #bhe ,numidian chicken1 #aeg ,nut-tree1 #abj 8 nuts of ,jupiter2 ,persian1 #aah 8 of ,heraclea1 #abj ,oak1 supplied a primitive food1 #bd ,oatmeal1 relished by the ancients1 #dc ,oats1 #db 8 appreciated by the ,germans1 #bj 8 oat soup2 oat cream1 #db ,obsonator1 servant1 #bfj1 #cgg nanthinum wine1 #cce nogarum1 #gc ,officers appointed to watch over the water1 #bid ,oil1 abounded in the ,east2 used by the ,patriarchs1 #ig 8 the best2 its price in ,rome1 #ih 8 served to ,julius ,csar2 used at the baths2 distribution of oil1 #ii 8 ,liburnian oil1 #ajj 8 of almonds1 #aag 8 of chestnuts1 #aba ,oil-mills1 invented by ,aristus1 #ig ,olive-tree1 #if 8 discovered by ,minerva2 its pre-eminence2 used for various emblems1 #ig 8 cultivated by the ,jews2 in ,greece1 #ih ,olives1 preserved by the ,hebrews2 of ,andalusia2 of ,granada2 cultivation1 #ih 8 when served1 #ii ,olla1 a ,spanish dish1 #beh ,olympian pig's liver1 #adj ,omphacomeli1 a beverage1 #cje ,onions1 brought into ,greece2 how prepared2 with honey1 #gf ,orach1 its pernicious properties1 #hg ,orange-tree1 its native place2 introduced by the ,portuguese2 unknown to the ,romans1 #aaa 8 stuck with cloves1 #aab ,orchius1 the ,tribune1 #cha ,organs of the ,romans1 #chi ,orpheus and the primitive egg1 #agf ,ortolans1 sent to ,rome1 #bjc ,oryza1 rice1 #bj ,osiris1 the inventor of agriculture1 #i 8 introduced the plough into ,egypt1 #ab ,ostiarius1 porter1 #cgf ,ostrich1 fatted and salted1 #bjc 8 served on some tables2 dish of ostrich's brains2 eggs2 a friandise1 #bjd ,otranto1 the palm tree of1 #ajj ,ovens1 used by the ,jews1 #ca 8 near the hand-mills1 #cc 8 first built in ,rome1 #cd 8 portable1 #ce ,ox1 sacrificed by ,prometheus1 #abd 8 offered to ,jupiter2 devouring a sacred cake1 #abe 8 roasted whole1 #adb1 #daj 8 an emblem of agriculture2 its image on coins2 offered to pugilists1 #adb 8 its flesh permitted to the ,hebrews2 praised by ,hippocrates2 price of1 #adc 8 highly valued by the ,romans1 #ade 8 care taken of2 tracing a furrow1 #ad 8 sacrificed to ,bubona1 #abh ,oxycrat1 a military drink1 #cjd ,oxymel1 #cjd ,oxyporon1 a seasoning1 #bgd ,oysters1 uncommon in ancient times2 served to the pagan pontiffs2 their price1 #bdb 8 preserved fat and alive2 sent to ,trajan2 when served in ,greece2 often served raw2 how fattened1 #cdc 8 how dressed2 from the ,atlantic ocean2 from ,bordeaux2 how preserved2 pickled2 forgotten for a long period1 #bdd ,palatine broil1 #adg ,pales1 #abh ,palestine1 renowned for its wines1 #cbb ,palladius cultivated the lemon tree1 #aaj ,palm-tree1 consecrated to the ,muses1 #ie1 #ajj 8 of ,otranto1 #ajj 8 its usefulness1 #aja 8 supplied the schecar1 #ajj ,pan1 #ca ,pandarus1 exempt from indigestions1 #bea ,panic-grass1 #dc 8 a favourite dish1 #bj ,panis1 bread2 etymology1 #ca1 #cb ,parasites1 #chb1 #chh 8 their place in banquets1 #chj ,parks1 #ahj ,parrot-fish1 #bbc ,parsley given as a prize1 #hb 8 its origin2 culinary preparation2 a symbol of mourning1 #hc ,parsley1 the food of chargers2 a favourite plant with ,horace2 sung by ,anacreon1 #hc 8 seed wine1 #ccc ,parthian chicken1 #aeg ,partridges1 #aie 8 their price2 the best parts2 their fights1 #aif 8 feathers used for couches1 #cgc 8 eggs1 #agg ,paschal lamb1 #adf ,passum wine1 #ccj ,pastry of the ,jews2 among the ,egyptians2 with the ,greeks and ,romans1 #bhd 8 patronised by eminent persons1 #bij 8 its progress1 #bia 8 cooks1 #bhe1 #bij ,patin1 dishes1 #bfc ,peach-tree1 supposed to be poisonous2 price of peaches2 how preserved1 #ajd ,peacocks1 #aff 8 admired by ,alexander the ,great2 kept in aviaries2 their price2 exhibited in ,greece2 appreciated in ,rome1 #aff 8 ridiculous consumption2 fattened by ,livio2 of ,samos2 reared by ,tiberius1 #afg 8 served as if alive1 #afg 8 sacrificed to ,caligula1 #afe 8 eggs1 #agg1 #cij 8 utility of their feathers1 #cdj 8 used by ,roman polyphagists1 #bdd 8 their tails designed on tables1 #cfi ,pear-tree1 its native place2 qualities of pears1 #ajg ,peas1 #ef 8 green1 little appreciated2 grey1 relished by the ancients2 sold at the ,circus1 #ef 8 a kind of bribe1 #eg ,pelasgus patronised the beech tree1 #bc ,pelorus celebrated for its oysters 7,cape71 #bdd ,peniculi1 washers1 #cgi ,pennyroyal used as a digestive1 #ij 8 wine1 #ccc ,pentapharmacum of the ,emperor ,verus1 #beg ,pentateuch of ,moses1 #aj ,pepper used by the ancients1 #bgg ,perch1 from the ,rhine2 given to the sick2 fed in the ,moselle2 relished by the ,romans2 how dressed1 #bcb ,perdix rustica1 the wood-cock1 #bjg ,perfumes1 used by the guests1 #chc ,persians1 fond of water-cresses1 #hd 8 their veneration for water1 #bic 8 predilection of their kings for figs1 #aac ,persiller1 to give pungency to cheese1 #agd ,pertinax1 fond of pheasants1 #aie ,pestles1 used for bruising wheat1 #be ,petronius's eggs1 #bja ,pharsalians1 their mighty appetite1 #cdj ,pheasants1 relished by ,severus1 #afj 8 eggs1 #agg 8 discovered by the ,argonauts2 kept in aviaries2 adorned the triumph of ,ptolemy2 served in sumptuous repasts1 #aid 8 scarce in ,italy2 ,vitellius relished their brains2 sacrificed to ,caligula2 recommended to weak stomachs2 sold frozen1 #aie 8 sausages1 #cij ,phenicopter1 flamingo1 #bjj ,philip of ,macedon1 fond of apples1 #ajh ,philip-le-,bel's regulations for fast-days1 #bad ,philoxenus1 died of indigestion1 #bab 8 a witty epicure1 #bah 8 devoted to degustation1 #bed ,phnicians1 abstained from pork1 #acd 8 venerated the ox1 #adb ,phrygians1 their respect for the ox1 #adb ,phytalus1 received a fig-tree from ,ceres1 #aac ,picenum cakes1 #bhh ,pickled pork1 #ach ,pickles1 relished by the ancients1 #bgh ,pic-nics1 known to the ancients1 #cdd ,pie1 invented by the ,emperor ,verus1 #bhf ,pig1 killed by ,ceres1 #abd 8 market at ,rome1 #abi 8 portrait of the2 its qualities1 #acc 8 offered to ,venus2 a sign of peace2 an emblem of fecundity2 abhorred by the ,egyptians2 forbidden to the ,jews2 to the ,mahomedans1 #acd 8 of ,macedonia1 #acf 8 stuffed with game1 #acg 8 forbidden to ramble2 of the ,abbey ,st4 ,antoine1 #ada 8 suckling1 #acg 8 the discoverer of truffles1 #bgi ,pigeons1 how they were caught1 #afb 8 a dainty dish2 recommended to the sick2 their price2 how prepared1 #afc ,pigeon-houses1 #afb ,pike1 little esteemed by ancient epicures2 its multiplication2 preparation2 longevity1 #bbh ,pilau1 #beh ,pilchard1 how stuffed by the ,romans1 #bch ,pine1 consecrated to ,cybele1 #ie ,pip-fruit1 #ajf ,pique-assiette1 parasite1 #chb ,piquette1 weak wine of the ancients1 #cbf ,pistachio-tree1 a native of ,india2 brought to ,rome by ,vitellius1 #abj 8 nuts1 recommended by ,avicenna1 #aba ,pistores1 corn grinders1 #be ,pithyllus1 his protector of the tongue1 #bee ,place of honour in banquets1 #cgc ,placites1 a kind of bread1 #cc ,plaice1 #bcg ,plants1 used in seasoning1 #hf ,plato was fond of figs1 #aac ,plautus worked at the mill1 #bg ,plough introduced into ,egypt2 the ,egyptian plough1 #ab 8 the primitive1 #ac 8 its simplicity2 ancient2 ,greek2 ,anglo-,norman2 ,gallic1 #ad ,plum tree2 plums2 how preserved2 of ,reine ,claude2 of ,mirabelle2 of ,monsieur1 #aje ,plutarch1 his vegetarian principles1 #abf ,pochet1 her recipe for tea 7,madame71 #cjh ,poisonous peaches1 #ajd ,poitevine sauce1 #beh ,poivre1 his description of birds' nests1 #bje ,poles1 fond of cucumbers1 #gc ,politeness of ,king ,clovis1 #chd ,pollio1 his answer to ,augustus1 #ii ,pollio's 7,vedius7 atrocious cruelty1 #bba 8 how he chastised his slaves1 #bad ,pollux trained hunting dogs1 #agi ,polypus1 its seasoning1 #bdi ,pomegranate1 fatal to ,proserpine2 first cultivated in the east2 brought into ,italy2 how preserved2 different species1 #abb ,pomona1 #ie ,pompey and the thrushes of ,lucullus1 #aii ,pompion1 treated without ceremony1 #ga 8 of ,egypt2 its qualities2 how prepared1 #gb ,pontic nuts1 #abj ,pontiffs1 their banquet 7,pagan71 #cef ,poppia used asses' milk1 #afi ,poppy1 its preparation1 #hf ,pork-meat distributed to the ,romans1 #acj 8 abhorred by some nations1 #acd 8 recommended to wrestlers2 its reputation1 #ace 8 disguised in various ways1 #acf 8 pickled1 #ach ,porpoises1 #bae ,porter1 ostiarius1 #cgf ,portugal orange1 #aab ,portughan1 a name of the orange1 #aaa ,portuguese1 introduced the orange tree1 #aaa ,pot-de-vin1 a bribe1 #ccg ,poularde la ,viminale1 #aef ,poultry1 the best of aliments1 #aeb 8 permitted to some religious order1 #aec 8 art of fattening1 #afa ,pounded bread1 #dj ,prcocia1 apricots1 #ajc ,prfectus annon1 #cf ,prgustator1 #cgh ,prayers before meals1 #cdd1 #cij ,prefect of ,rome1 #cee ,prestigiators1 #cie ,priapus1 a protector of fruit trees1 #ie ,priests of ,mars1 great epicures1 #cdc ,probus restored the vine to ,gaul1 #cbb ,procillatores1 servants1 #cgg ,procurator1 major-domo1 #bfj ,prneste enriched by hazel nuts1 #abj ,profusion in the ,city of ,london 7,ancient71 #cea ,prodigality of the ,earl of ,warwick1 #cea ,prometheus sacrificed an ox1 #abd ,proserpine1 was too fond of pomegranates1 #abb ,provisions mentioned in the ,scriptures1 #ced 8 price of1 #ceh ,prytanea in ,greece1 #cdg ,ptisana1 barley water1 #db 8 a sorry liquid1 #cjd ,pudding1 ,carthaginian1 #dc 8 hasty1 #dd 8 black1 #ach ,pullarius1 his office1 #aef ,pultiphagists1 #cc ,punch given by ,sir ,edward ,russell1 #daa ,purslaine mixed with salad1 #fh 8 its properties1 #fi ,pyanepsia1 one of the festivals of ,apollo1 #ec ,pygmalion1 his severity1 #abe ,pythagoras1 abstained from beans1 #ec 8 was a vegetarian1 #abf 8 recommended honey1 #bgc ,quails1 a sovereign remedy1 #aif ,quails1 food of the ,israelites2 supposed to cause epilepsy2 banished from the ,roman tables1 #aif 8 fights1 #aig ,quenelles of pig's liver and brains1 #adj ,quince tree1 a native of ,cydon1 #ajf ,quinces1 their beneficial qualities2 preserved in honey1 #ajf ,quince wine1 #ajg ,rabbits taught mankind the art of fortification2 overthrow ,tarragona2 defeated by the ,roman troops1 #ahi 8 of ,macedonia2 how prepared1 #aij ,radishes of ,judea2 price in ,rome2 supposed to produce cabbages2 how preserved1 #gi 8 pickled1 #cij ,ragouts of the middle ages1 #beh ,raleigh1 his account of the herring fishery 7,sir ,walter71 #bci ,rancidity of butter1 how to attenuate it1 #agb ,raspberry1 #aae ,ratafia1 #ajc ,rauwolf1 the first to mention coffee1 #caa ,rearing of cattle1 #abg ,raumur1 his experiments to hatch chickens1 #aeg ,red mullet1 #bah ,redstone's funeral banquet 7,sir ,john71 #cei ,reform ,club1 its splendid entertainments1 #djh ,reine ,claude1 plums of1 #aje ,remy's silver table 7,st471 #cgj ,ren of ,sicily introduced the plum-tree1 #aje ,repasts1 #cci 8 in common1 #cdf 8 variety of repasts2 of the ,jews1 #ced 8 offered to ,jupiter1 #cef 8 of ,louis ,,xiv1 #cdi ,reservoirs on the house tops1 #if ,rheumatism1 cured by drinking ale1 #cja ,rhoites wine1 #cje ,rhombus1 its seasoning1 #bce ,rice1 #dc 8 a nutritious grain1 #bj ,river cray-fish1 #bdh ,rivers1 venerated by some nations1 #bic ,roast beef1 the principal article of food in the ,homeric ages1 #cci ,robert sauce1 #beh ,robigus1 a god1 #ai ,robus1 a variety of corn1 #ai ,rochelle wine1 its price in ,england1 #cch ,rocket1 how used by the ancients2 its properties1 #hg ,rockingham1 his banquet 7,lord71 #bbg ,roebuck1 with spikenard2 aux prunes2 aux amandes de pin1 #ahd ,roll bread1 #dj ,romans1 fond of agriculture1 #aa1 #ac 8 eat dogs1 #aea 8 their manipulation of butter1 #aga 8 fond of fish1 #bab1 #baf ,rome its corruption2 its fall1 #dja ,romulus1 studied the advancement of agriculture1 #ac 8 was found under a fig-tree1 #aad ,rope dancers1 #cie ,roquefort cheese1 #agd1 #age ,rosatum wine1 #cca ,rousseau1 7,j4 ,j47 was not a practical vegetarian1 #abf ,rue1 a counter poison2 its properties1 #ij 8 wine1 #ccc ,russell 7,sir ,edward71 his memorable punch1 #daa ,rye1 a detestable food1 according to ,pliny1 #bj 8 a substitute for coffee1 #caa ,sacred chickens1 #aef ,salad could not be procured for a queen1 #ea 8 in the middle ages1 #ge ,salangan1 sea-swallow1 #bjd 8 nests1 #bje ,salmasius1 on truffles1 #bha ,salmon1 when first mentioned2 sung by ,ausonius2 from ,aquitaine2 abundant in ,scotland1 #bcc ,salonite cheese1 #agd ,salt1 consecrated to the gods2 from the asphaltite lake2 used by the ,jews2 tax on salt1 #bfg 8 superstitions concerning salt1 #bfg 8 salt works in ,italy2 eaten with bread2 four sorts1 #bfh ,salt-meat1 its preparation1 #aca 8 cellars1 #chi ,salts1 digestive1 #bfi ,samos1 its oil1 #ih ,sandaligeruli1 servants1 #cgg ,sandals1 #chh ,sapa1 cooked wine1 #cbf ,sardinia1 renowned for hams1 #acg ,saturn1 the inventor of agriculture1 #i ,saucepans of the ancients1 #bfb ,saucers1 #bfc ,sauces of various kinds1 #beg ,sauce manufacturers1 #beg ,saupiquet sauce1 #beh ,sausages of ,lucania1 #ach 8 various1 #adj ,savillum pie1 #bhf ,savory1 #hi 8 wine1 #ccc ,scales of the ancients1 #acj ,scaliger1 repugnance to water-cresses1 #hd ,scallop of ,tarentum1 #bdf ,scarus1 a fish1 #bbc 8 its renown1 #bac 8 celebrated for its anomalies1 #bbd ,scate1 its back appreciated by the ,greeks1 #bcc 8 despised by the ,romans2 its varieties according to ,lacpde2 its eggs a curious remedy1 #bcc ,scissor1 a carver1 #cgg ,scoparii1 sweepers1 #cgh ,scythians1 drinkers of milk1 #afh 8 their manipulation of butter1 #aga ,sea1 peopled with gods1 #bid 8 crawfish1 its culinary preparation1 #bdg 8 eels1 fed on the flesh of slaves1 #bjh1 #bad 8 8 heard their master's voice2 ornamented with necklaces1 #bbj 8 8 how fattened2 where caught2 how prepared2 from the ,tiber1 #bba 8 8 venerated by the ,egyptians2 of a considerable size1 #bbb 8 hedgehog1 relished by the ancients2 how prepared1 #bde 8 swallow1 #bjd 8 wolf1 an exquisite fish2 a child of the gods2 eclipsed the sturgeon2 where caught2 relished by the ,greeks1 #bbc ,seals1 #bae ,seasoning1 plants used in1 #hf ,seasonings1 #bff 8 with garum1 #bgb ,seats1 #chh 8 used by the ,hebrews1 #cgb ,secale1 rye1 #bj ,sechar1 an exhilarating beverage1 #ajj ,seeds1 #df ,sejus seasoning1 #afa ,selech1 his services to mankind1 #bfg ,seneca1 his declamations against luxury2 his enormous wealth1 #beb ,sensualism of the ancients1 #cde ,sentinum wine1 #cbh ,sepia1 its black liquid2 its conjugal affection2 how it was dressed1 #bcd ,sepia1 an estimable dish1 #bcd ,sergius1 his fishponds1 #bdc ,servants1 #cgf ,sesame1 how used1 #hf 8 cakes1 #bj ,severus1 fond of geese2 of pheasants1 #afj1 #aie 8 hares1 #ahi ,svign1 her opinion on coffee 7,mde4 de71 #cab ,shad1 sold to the plebeians1 #bcd ,shadows1 a kind of parasites1 #chh ,sheep bread1 #dj ,shell1 imitating precious woods1 #cfi 8 fish1 #bda 8 8 its seasoning in ,italy2 how dressed by ,apicius2 from ,lake ,lucrinus2 from ,pelorus2 how cooked2 when served2 relished by the ancients1 #bdb 8 fruit1 #aag ,shepherds1 ancient1 #abg ,shoes of the ,romans1 #chh ,shrimps used for garum1 #bgj ,sicilian cooks1 #cdd ,sicily1 renowned for cooks1 #bef ,sideboard1 #bfd ,sieves1 #bfe ,sigma1 a horse-shoe shaped table1 #cfi ,silatum1 a ,roman drink1 #ccd ,siligineus panis1 a kind of bread1 #ch ,siligo1 a species of wheat1 #ai ,simnels1 or wigs1 #bia ,simon's speculation on frogs1 #bdi ,sitarchi1 magistrates for the allotment of corn1 #ba ,sitocome1 an inspector of corn1 #ba ,sitologi1 officers to superintend the purchase of corn1 #ba ,sitometr1 officers watching over the measurement of corn1 #ba ,siton1 inspectors of corn1 #ba ,sitophylaces1 officers regulating the sale1 #ba ,skeleton1 exhibited to the guests1 #che1 #cic ,slavery in ancient times1 #bjh ,slaves1 sold by ,cato2 cruelties practised against slaves2 punished by crucifixion2 put to death to amuse a friend1 #bjh 8 thrown to the sea-eels1 #bjh1 #bad 8 more null than vile1 #bji 8 eating with their masters1 #cef 8 their stigmas1 #cgf 8 lettered slaves1 #cgf ,snails1 a delicate hors-d'vre1 #bfe 8 how fattened1 #cbf ,snipe1 #bjg ,snow1 preserved in cellars1 #bie 8 cullender1 #bbf ,soles1 #bcg 8 compared to partridges1 #bbd 8 much sought after1 #bcg ,solon1 his sumptuary laws1 #ajh1 #cdg ,sorrel1 how prepared1 #fi ,soterides1 ,nicomedes' cook1 #dd ,sow1 ,jupiter's first nurse1 #acd ,sow-thistle1 given up to rabbits1 #hg ,sowing taught by ,ceres1 #bd ,spain1 celebrated for garum1 #bdc ,spaniards1 fond of acorns1 #bd ,spanish camomile1 mixed with wine1 #ij 8 dancers1 #cie ,spectacles introduced in banquets1 #chc ,spelt1 a species of wheat1 #ai ,spinach1 little known to the ancients1 #fc ,spoons1 #bfc ,squirrel1 #aij ,stag1 #ahb ,stags' horns consecrated to ,diana1 #ahj 8 flesh supposed to ensure longevity1 #ahc 8 fillet of stag2 shoulder of stag2 la ,persane2 l',hortensius2 la ,nmenne1 #ahc 8 pies1 #bij ,starling1 recommended by physicians2 an erudite starling1 #bjj ,statues of gods placed on the table1 #chi ,steward1 dispensator1 #cgf ,stilphon1 his answer to ,cybele1 #ha ,stokers1 focarii1 #cgh ,stone fruit1 #ig ,stork1 #aic1 #bjd ,stoves of the ancients1 #cff ,strawberries1 highly appreciated1 #aae ,strigil1 used in the baths1 #chg ,structores1 servants1 #bfj1 #cgg ,strutiophagous tribes1 #bjc ,stuffed sucking pork1 #aci ,sturgeon1 #baf 8 a royal fish1 #bad 8 its price2 compared to ambrosia2 honours it received2 announced by the sound of trumpets2 an imperial dish in ,china1 #baf 8 its weight1 #bag 8 compared to peacocks1 #bbd ,style of living in the #adth century1 #ceb ,sucking-pigs1 #acg 8 stuffed1 #aci ,sucking-pig1 with puddings1 #cea ,sugar1 the honey of reeds2 the ,indian salt1 #bge ,sultana coffee1 #cac ,sumach1 #ib ,sumptuary laws1 #aeb1 #beb1 #cdf1 #cej1 #cha ,supper1 #cdb 8 of the ,hebrews1 #cdc 8 primitive of the ,romans2 in the open air1 #cdd 8 given by the ,roman ,emperors1 #ceg 8 a ,roman1 #chf ,swallow1 sea1 #bjd ,swan1 #aic ,sweepers1 scoparii1 #cgh ,sweet marjoram1 when used1 #hi ,sweet wine1 #cbf ,sword-fish1 how dressed in ,greece2 despised by the ,romans1 #bcd ,sybaris1 renowned for its good cheer1 #abf ,sybarites1 their meditations upon a banquet1 #bbg ,sycophants1 #aac ,symphoniaci1 musicians1 #chi ,symposiarch1 #cia ,synthesis1 a convivial dress1 #chi ,syracuse1 its proverbial gastronomy1 #abg ,syrian dancers1 #cie ,syrup of truffles1 #bhj ,tables1 before each guest2 veneered with gold2 of bronze2 of wood2 of silver2 circular1 #cfh 8 spotted or veined2 of various forms2 changed at each course2 how cleaned2 of ,cicero1 #cfi 8 of ivory1 #cid ,taillevant1 the cook of ,charles ,,vii4 of ,france1 #aic ,talmouses1 a kind of pastry1 #bib ,tarentum1 renowned for its repasts1 #abf 8 the abode of luxury1 #bdf ,tarragona overthrown by rabbits1 #ahi ,tarts1 of various sorts1 #bij ,taste1 its definition1 #abd ,tax on salt1 #bfh ,tea1 gathering1 #cjf 8 of two kinds2 heating2 rolling1 #cjg 8 its miraculous origin1 #cjh 8 compared to ambrosia1 #cji 8 tasters1 #cjh ,teal1 #bjf ,teeth1 of ivory1 #chh ,teething repast1 #ceg ,tence sauce1 #beh ,tench1 mentioned by ,ausonius2 left to the common people1 #bcf ,tethalassomenon wine1 #ccj ,ttines la ,flamine2 la ,salienne1 #adj ,thalassites wine1 #ccj ,thasian nut1 #aag ,thasos wine1 #cbh ,theagenes1 a beef eater1 #adc 8 his voracity1 #cci ,theophrastus mentions the cherrytree1 #ajb 8 8 the plum tree1 #aje 8 fond of pears1 #ajg ,thesmophoria1 a feast in honour of ,ceres1 #bb ,thessalians1 their appetite1 #cdj ,thimbron1 a culinary star1 #bed ,thorian law1 respecting cattle1 #abg ,thrashing of corn1 #ad ,thrushes1 #aig 8 supplied an abundant manure2 not eaten by children2 sung by ,homer2 sent as wedding presents2 served at sumptuous feasts2 from ,daphne1 #aig 8 kept in aviaries2 sold by ,varro's aunt2 how fed2 their price2 in the shape of crowns1 #aih 8 prescribed to ,pompey2 recommended to convalescents2 their brains2 eaten by ,heliogabalus1 #aii ,thurium1 its oil1 #ih ,thyme1 its qualities2 used for aromatic liqueurs1 #hi 8 wine1 #ccc ,thys1 his voracity1 #cci ,tiberius1 fond of melons1 #gh 8 reared peacocks1 #afg 8 his generosity1 #beg 8 poisoned by mushrooms1 #bhb 8 how he encouraged artists1 #cah 8 his sumptuary regulations1 #cdg ,timachidas1 a cook and a poet1 #bed ,titormus1 his voracity1 #cci ,tonsores1 barbers1 #chg ,tooth-powder used by the ,romans1 #chg ,tortoise1 its blood2 of an enormous size1 #bdf 8 how dressed1 #bdf1 #bdg ,tourte1 a kind of cake1 #bia ,tractatores1 servants in the baths1 #chg ,tremellius1 took the surname of ,scrofa1 #abh ,triclinarches1 chief steward1 #cgh ,triclinium1 #cgb1 #bgh ,trimalcio1 a celebrated cook1 #bef ,trimestre1 a species of corn1 #bj ,tripes1 their reputation1 #adc ,triptolemus1 the inventor of agriculture1 #i 8 was a vegetarian1 #abd ,triticum1 wheat1 #ai ,trojan pig1 #acg ,tromelia1 renowned for cheese1 #agd ,trophy of agriculture1 #daa ,trout1 little appreciated by the ,greeks2 8 relished by the ,romans2 how dressed1 #bcj ,troyenne1 hog la1 #acf 8 wild boar la1 #djf ,truffles1 the daughters of thunder2 8 where they grow2 various sorts1 #bgi 8 how prepared1 #bhj 8 discovered by pigs1 #ace1 #bgi 8 syrup of1 #bhj 8 how preserved1 #bha ,tunny-,fish1 its entrails2 from ,samos2 8 offered to ,neptune2 of ,pachynum2 fishery of the ,synopians2 how prepared1 #bbe 8 obstructed the navigation of ,alexander2 of an immense size1 #bbf 8 used for garum1 #bgj ,turbot1 a delicious food2 compared to the pheasant2 the turbot of ,domitian1 #bbd 8 of ,attica1 #bbe ,turnips1 from ,thebes2 ,amiternum2 how they were eaten1 #fg ,turkey1 still retains the use of garum1 #bgc ,turkey-hen1 #afc 8 how many are required to eat a turkey-hen2 celebrated by ,sophocles2 bewailing the death of ,meleager2 reared in ,roman farms2 scarce in ,egypt and ,greece2 introduced into ,rome1 #afd 8 sacrificed to ,caligula2 how fattened2 l',africaine1 #afe 8 how prepared1 #aff 8 introduced into various countries2 admired by ,charles ,,ix4 of ,france1 #afe 8 turkey eggs1 #aff ,turtle dove1 #bjg ,twelfth-night cake1 its composition1 #ed ,typhes1 a sort of bread1 #cc ,tyrontes1 a sort of bread1 #cc ,tyrotarichus1 a popular dish1 #agd ,uladislas 7,king71 his repugnance to apples1 #ajh ,ulric 7,st47 festival of1 #bae ,ulysses1 renowned for carving1 #abi 8 laid the cloth1 #beb 8 a model of delicacy1 #chj ,unguentarii1 perfumers1 #chg ,utensils1 culinary1 #bfa 8 of the #adth century1 #bfe ,vanilla chocolate1 #cac ,variety of repasts1 #ced ,varro's aviary1 #aih ,vase of the ,house of ,brunswick1 #cjb ,vases of ,sardonyx1 #cbj 8 of silver2 of gold1 #cba ,vatel1 his tragic death1 #bae ,vauban's recipe for eating corn in soup1 #ae ,veal1 la ,syracusaine2 la ,tarentaise1 #add ,vegetables1 #di 8 dried1 #ec 8 relished by the ,romans1 #ej1 #ea 8 how preserved2 scarce in ,england1 three centuries ago1 #ea ,vegetarians1 #abf ,venafrum1 #ii ,venison1 appreciated by eastern nations1 #aha ,ventilation of the dining-room1 #cib ,ventre de truie l',athnienne2 la ,romaine1 #aci ,verjuice1 its ancient use1 #bgg ,vertumnus1 #ie ,verus 7the ,emperor71 invented a new dish1 #beg1 #bhf 8 his couches1 #cgc ,vespucius 7,americus7 introduced the turkey into ,portugal1 #afe ,vesta1 the goddess of bakers1 #cg ,vestis cnatoria1 convivial dress1 #chh ,vicar's wine1 #ccg ,victoria1 coronation banquet of ,h4 ,m4 ,queen1 #djh ,victua1 the goddess of food1 #cef ,villar's ,swiss porter1 #cda ,vine1 cultivated in ,england1 #cce ,vinegar1 its alleged qualities2 from ,egypt2 used to cool the cannons1 #bgh 8 cruet1 #bfd ,vines1 protected by the ,roman law1 #cbd ,vinum ,tethalassomenon1 #ccj ,violatum wine1 #cca ,vitellius1 brought the pistachio tree to ,rome1 #abj 8 regaled on pheasants' brains1 #aie 8 served with a dish of #g1jjj birds1 #bjh 8 grew tired of sea-eels1 #bba 8 his culinary expenses1 #beg1 #cdh 8 was an active polyphagist1 #cda 8 his nocturnal banquets1 #cde ,vocatores1 servants1 #cgg ,voracity1 examples of1 #cci1 #cda ,vulture1 #aid ,walnut tree1 a native of ,asia1 consecrated to ,jupiter1 reserved to ,persian kings1 #aah ,walnuts1 when served2 how eaten2 their qualities2 used as an antidote2 strewed on the nuptial chamber1 #aai ,warwick1 his prodigality 7,earl of71 #cea ,washers1 peniculi1 #cgi ,water1 a vivifying principle2 venerated by ancient nations1 #bic 8 conveyed into ,rome1 #bie 8 its curative virtue1 #bif 8 cure system1 practised by the ,romans1 #big 8 hot1 used to drink1 #bif 8 cresses1 a native of ,crete2 esteemed by the ,persians2 despised by ,plutarch2 their properties1 #hd 8 an anti-scorbutic2 how prepared #he 8 hen1 #bjf 8 mills1 #bg1 #bh ,wax figures among the ,romans1 #cgg 8 vases1 #cah ,weaning supper1 #ceg ,wedding-cake of the ,romans1 #bhf 8 wine1 #ccg 8 repast of ,h4,r4,h4 the ,duke of ,clarence1 #cea 8 day banquet1 #ceg 8 of ,charles ,,vi41 #bei ,weights of the ancients1 #acj ,westphalia celebrated for hams1 #acg ,whales1 #bae 8 of four acres1 #bac ,wheat1 #ai 8 its price in ,greece2 public distribution in ,rome1 #ba 8 its price in the olden times1 #bb 8 ,indian1 #dd ,whiting1 its light flesh1 #bcj 8 its preparation1 #bca ,whitten used for tables1 #cfh ,wild boar la ,troyenne1 #ahe1 #djf 8 of immense size2 served by ,caranus2 raised on farms1 #ahf 8 how served1 #ahg 8 how prepared1 #ahf1 #ahg 8 preceded by trumpeters1 #ahg ,wild marjoram wine1 #hi 8 thyme1 #hi ,william the ,conqueror1 his sumptuous banquets1 #ceb ,wind-mills1 #bi ,wine1 of grain2 of the ,britons1 #cja 8 obtained from fruits1 #cje1 #cbb 8 disliked by some nations1 #cbc 8 method of making1 #cbe 8 fining of2 how clarified1 #cbg 8 of different kinds2 ,greek2 ,italian1 #cbh 8 of a hundred leaves2 white2 red2 two hundred years old2 how to change its colour1 #cbi 8 mixed with sea-water2 of ,chios2 various made wines1 #ccj 8 interdicted to ,roman ladies1 #cca1 #ccb 8 its price in ,greece2 in ,rome1 #cca 8 the drink of generous souls1 #ccb 8 of ,campania1 #ccc 8 dealers in1 #ccf 8 used for presents and fees2 of citizenship1 #ccg 8 sweet1 #cbf 8 hot1 #cic 8 press of the ancients1 #cbe ,wood1 an extraordinary eater 7,nicholas71 #cda ,woodcock1 how prepared1 #bjg ,wood-hen1 #bjf ,wormwood1 esteemed by the ,egyptians2 its various uses1 #ic 8 wine2 its composition2 it prevented giddiness1 #ih1 #ccd ,wreaths of flowers1 #cia ,wrestlers fed on pork1 #ace 8 rewarded with an ox1 #adb 8 fed with cheese1 #agc ,xerxes1 fighting for figs1 #aad ,xiphias fish1 #bbe ,york banquet1 #djc ,ypocras1 #cch ,zea1 rice wheat1 #bj ,zeno1 of ,citium1 of the same nature as the lupins1 #dg 8 cooked his lentils himself1 #eg ,zythum1 beer1 #bii ,,errata4 ,page #af1 line #ai1 for which great and the1 read which the great and glorious4 ,p4 #ai1 l4 #af1 for ,picardy to make bread1 read in ,picardy4 ,to make bread4 ,p4 #ai1 l4 #af1 for of leaven and1 read of leaven is required1 and4 ,p4 #bf1 l4 #f1 for ,flamine1 read ,flamen4 ,p4 #bf1 l4 #be1 for leaves read loaves4 ,p4 #bg1 l4 #bj1 for ,cabire read ,cabira4 ,p4 #bh1 l4 #bh1 for hand-mill2 by the ,britons1 read hand-mill1 by the ,britons4 ,p4 #cb1 l4 #aa1 for ,megalarte and ,megalomar1 read ,megalartus and ,megalomazus4 ,p4 #cc1 l4 #b1 for escarites1 read escharites4 ,p4 #cc1 l4 #g1 for melitutes1 read melitates4 ,p4 #cg1 l4 #h1 for ,septier1 read ,setier4 ,p4 #ej1 l4 #be1 for ,ciens cheris1 read lieux cheris4 ,p4 #fc1 l4 #bh1 for chrysolacanon1 read chrysolachanon4 ,p4 #fe1 l4 #cd1 for has1 read have4 ,p4 #fg1 l4 #bj1 for ,amitermes1 read ,amiternum4 ,p4 #fh1 l4 #ah1 for possessed1 read possesses4 ,p4 #gi1 l4 #aa1 for ,algidea1 read ,algidus4 ,p4 #hd1 l4 #be1 for dressed it in1 read dressed in4 ,p4 #ic1 l4 #cb1 for ,corcyrus1 read ,corcyra4 ,p4 #ih1 l4 #ae1 for ,halmade1 read ,halmades4 ,p4 #ii1 l4 #bf1 for ,venafra1 read ,venafrum4 ,p4 #ajj1 l4 #ca1 for sechar1 read schecar4 ,p4 #ajc1 l4 #aa1 for ,ccilian1 read ,cecilian4 ,p4 #ajf1 l4 #ah1 for fruit of1 read fruit1 the4 ,p4 #abd1 l4 #ca1 for ,hyberbius1 read ,hyperbius4 ,p4 #abe1 l4 #b1 for ,erichtonius1 read ,erichthonius4 ,p4 #abi1 l4 #a1 for curators1 read curator4 ,p4 #abi1 l4 #be1 for life1 read life1 the4 ,p4 #acf1 l4 #af1 for ,chalies1 read ,chalcis4 ,p4 #aci1 l4 #ch1 for la ,botienne read la ,botienne4 ,p4 #adc1 l4 #ae1 for ,thasos1 read ,thasus4 ,p4 #adi1 l4 #b1 for ,mlos1 read ,melos4 ,p4 #aec1 l4 #b1 for ,carniphobis1 read ,carniphobus4 ,p4 #aej1 l4 #be1 for ,scipio1 ,metellus1 and1 read ,scipio ,metellus and4 ,p4 #agj1 l4 #bf1 for philosopher1 read philologist4 ,p4 #aga1 l4 #ag1 for bouturos1 read bouturon4 ,p4 #agf1 l4 #g1 for consort of ,nero1 read consort of ,augustus4 ,p4 #ahi1 l4 #e1 for consectuive1 read consecutive4 ,p4 #bjc1 l4 #bc1 for ,marmot1 read ,marmol4 ,p4 #bac1 l4 #i1 for scare1 read scar4 ,p4 #baf1 l4 #i1 et passim1 for accipenser1 read acipenser4 ,p4 #bbe1 l4 #h1 for ,pachynum1 read ,pachynus4 ,p4 #bif1 l4 #ac1 for ,sicyona1 read ,sicyon4 ,p4 #bcj1 l4 #bc1 for psant1 read psent4 ,p4 #bce1 l4 #ba1 for of ,scyathus1 read of ,sciathos4 ,p4 #bcf1 l4 #bi1 for the ,mostella1 read the ,mosella4 ,p4 #bcg1 l4 #ag1 for the ,bulistes1 read the ,balistes4 ,p4 #bch1 l4 #b1 for of ,phaleres1 read of ,phalera4 ,p4 #bdb1 l4 #i1 for of ,polareo1 read of ,pelorus4 ,p4 #bdg1 l4 #f1 for ,minturnus1 read ,minturn4 ,p4 #bej1 l4 #ab1 for a hook1 read to hook4 ,p4 #bea1 l4 #bd1 for ,pandarea1 read ,pandarus4 ,p4 #bec1 l4 #ab1 for the act of eating1 read the art of eating4 ,p4 #cgh1 l4 #c1 for ,cnide1 read ,cnidus4 ,p4 #bgj1 l4 #ab1 for ,acarnidea1 ,alopecomesia1 read ,acarne1 ,alopeconnesus4 ,p4 #bia1 l4 #bf1 for eleven hundred1 read eleven4 ,p4 #bic1 l4 #be1 for he prayed it might be1 read he prayed that the ,tiber might be4 ,p4 #cji1 l4 #bg1 for ,simon introduced ,pauli1 read ,simon ,pauli introduced4 ,p4 #cag1 l4 #be1 for we have spoken1 read we will soon speak4 ,p4 #cbc1 l4 #a1 for ,helbon1 read ,hebron4 ,p4 #cbe1 l4 #ci1 for ,plate ,,iii41 read ,plate ,i4 ,p4 #cff1 l4 #cj1 for minutalim1 read minutatim4 ,p4 #cgh1 l4 #ae and #cf1 for ,procillatores1 read ,procillator4 ,,description ,,of ,,plate ,no4 ,,xxvi4 ,a1 ,,page #cfe4 ,no4 #a4 ,terra-,cotta ,drinking-,vase1 in the shape of a ,bird4 ,no4 #b4 ,drinking-,vase in the shape of a ,tea-pot4 ,no4 #c4 ,drinking-,cup1 with ,jupiter's ,head4 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 ,,works ,,by ,a4 ,,soyer4 ,lately ,published1 the ,eighth ,edition1 ,handsomely ,bound1 ,price #aes41 ,,the ,gastronomic ,regenerator3 ,a ,,simplified ,,and ,,entirely ,,new ,,system ,,of ,,cookery1 ,,with ,,nearly ,,two ,,thousand ,,practical ,,recipes1 ,,suited ,,to ,,the ,,income ,,of ,,all ,,classes4 ,,illustrated ,,with ,,numerous ,,engravings1 ,,and ,,correct ,,and ,,minute ,,plans ,,how ,,kitchens ,,of ,,every ,,size1 ,,from ,,the ,,kitchen ,,of ,a ,,royal ,,palace ,,to ,,that ,,of ,,the ,,humble ,,cottage1 ,,are ,,to ,,be ,,constructed ,,and ,,furnished4 ,,by ,a4 ,,soyer4 ,,london3 ,,simpkin1 ,,marshall1 ,,co41 ,,stationers' ,,hall ,,court3 ,,and ,,sold ,,by ,,john ,,ollivier1 ,,pall-,,mall4 #ahec4 ,for ,criticisms see the ,public ,press in #ahdf4 99 99 99 99 99 ,the ,gastronomic ,regenerator ,,translation ,,from ,,the ,,french ,,of ,a ,,culinary ,,dialogue ,,between ,,lord ,m4 ,h4 ,,and ,a4 ,,soyer4--,from the 8,gastronomic ,regenerator10 p4 #faa4 ,s4--,you are perfectly right1 my ,lord1 the title of 8,gourmet0 belongs only to him who eats with art1 science1 and care1 and even with great care4 ,,lord ,m4--,the 8,gourmand0 is never entitled to the name of 8,gourmet20 the one eats without tasting1 whilst the other tastes in eating4 ,s4--,the proud and haughty man1 my ,lord1 orders his dinner from necessity2 the man of the world--the profound epicure--orders his with delight4 ,,lord ,r4--,it is quite certain that too much attention cannot be given to the proper execution of1 and the intelligence displayed in1 the order of a dinner4 ,the dinner--being of each day1 each season1 each century--is not only an hereditary fashion1 but also the soul of sociability2 read history1 and you will perceive that1 in all times1 amongst all people1 the good which has been done--and sometimes the evil--was always preceded or followed by a banquet4 ,s4--,nothing is more true1 my ,lord4 ,of all the pleasures which are bestowed upon us in this world1 that of the table is the only one which1 when the reins of the car of life become slack1 parts from us with regret1 and often1 as a faithful friend1 leaves us but at the brink of the tomb2 whilst all other pleasures disappear gradually1 like the fading of a beautiful autumn1 and cover our heads with the hoary locks of winter4 ,,lord ,m4--,it is positive that the gift of degustation belongs to all ages of life1--a centenarian whom ,i knew well retained this pleasure until his last hour4 ,s4--,our degustative senses require continual study1 and unceasingly claim a constant change4 ,,lord ,m4--,the greatest wit lacks eloquence1 if he neglect too much the nature of his repast4 ,s4--,which proves1 my ,lord1 that our most agreeable sensations depend1 not solely on nature1 but on the care we take of ourselves4 ,,lord ,m4--,yes1 the more sensitive the soul1 the greater the power of degustation4 ,the degustative sensations operate with as great activity on the palate as the charm of melody acts on the ear2 for example1 man in a state of madness feels the want of eating1 but the enchanting pleasure of degustation is as much denied to him as that of reason4 ,s4--,your argument on this point is extremely just1 my ,lord2 and are you not of my opinion1 that nothing disposes the human heart to amicable feelings more than a dinner well conceived and artistically prepared8 ,,lord ,m4--,it is that which has always made me say that a good cook is as useful as a good tutor4 ,s4--,i have always perceived1 my ,lord1 that the finest palate is the most difficult to please1 but also the most just in praise4 ,,lord ,m4--,the choice of wines is of great importance in the progress of a dinner3 a fine wine1 light and generous1 protects the cook and becomes the benefactor of the guest4 ,s4--,permit me also to observe1 my ,lord1 that a gastronomic runion1 without the beau sexe is to me a flower-bed without flowers1 an ocean without waves1 a fleet without sails4 ,,lord ,m4--,certainly1 such runions are the cradles of good manners and sociability1 even as intemperance is the tomb of morality4 99 99 99 99 99 ,just ,published1 the ,thirtieth ,thousand1 ,price #gs4 #f;d41 ,,the ,modern ,housewife1 or ,menagere1 ,,comprising ,nearly ,one ,thousand ,recipes for the ,economic and ,judicious ,preparation of ,every ,meal of the ,day1 ,,and ,,those ,,for ,,the ,,nursery ,,and ,,sick-,,room1 ,,with ,,minute ,,directions ,,for ,,family ,,management ,,in ,,all ,,its ,,branches4 ,,by ,a4 ,,soyer1 ,,author ,,of 8,,the ,,gastronomic ,,regenerator10 ,illustrated with ,numerous ,engravings4 ,for ,criticisms1 see the ,public ,press in #ahdi4 ,,london3 ,,simpkin1 ,,marshall1 ,,and ,,co41 ,,stationers' ,,hall ,,court1 #ahec4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,copy ,,of ,a ,,letter ,,recently ,,received ,,by ,,the ,,author ,,from ,,dr4 ,,erasmus ,,wilson1 ,,author ,,of 8,,healthy ,,skin1 ,a ,,popular ,,treatise ,,on ,,the ,,skin ,,and ,,hair40 #ag1 ,,henrietta ,,street1 ,,cavendish ,,square1 ,july #ahth1 #ahec4 ,,sir1 ,may ,i beg your acceptance of the accompanying small volume1 for the part illustration of which ,i am indebted to your admirable 8,housewife40 ,your nursery dinner is one of the most valuable pages ,i have ever read on the subject of ,diet2 and it is calculated to confer an everlasting benefit on society4 ,i am1 ,sir1 ,your faithful servant1 ,,erasmus ,,wilson4 ,a4 ,,soyer1 ,,esq4 99 99 99 99 99 ,extract from 8,healthy ,skin1 a ,popular ,treatise on the ,skin and ,hair40 ,by ,erasmus ,wilson1 ,f4,r4,s4 ,there is another branch of dietetics that calls for an observation from me1 ,i mean the diet of children4 ,children are growing animals2 nutrition in them is active1 and calls for good and plentiful material in the shape of nourishment4 ,as far as period is concerned1 the same law that applies to adults is equally suited to them1 three meals a day1 an interval of four hours between each4 ,i speak of children out of arms1 not of infants4 ,the substance of their meals cannot be too nutritive1 or too much varied4 ,that the diet of children cannot be too varied or extensive is a doctrine ,i have long held2 and ,i was recently much charmed in finding the subject treated with such admirable sense and judgment by a high authority in the science of living--,soyer4 ,his letter entitled 8,the ,nursery ,dinner10 in the 8,modern ,housewife10 ,i cannot too strongly commend to the perusal and attention of my readers1 and to the study of those on whom the proper rearing of children in any way rests4 ,speaking of the diet of children for the day1 this author writes3--8,bread and milk for breakfast at eight2 the dinner at one1 which was composed as follows throughout the week1--roast mutton and apple pudding1 roast beef and currant pudding1 baked apples2 boiled mutton with turnips1 after which rice or vermicelli pudding2 occasionally a little salt beef1 with suet dumplings1 plain and with currants in them1 or pease pudding2 or if unwell1 a little veal or chicken broth1 or beef-tea40 ,this scheme of diet is intended for the children of persons in very moderate circumstances2 but for those who can afford it he prescribes1 as the dinner of one day1 roast mutton3 8then the next day ,i would give them a small piece of mutton plain boiled1 with turnips1 and apple tart1 or a few slices of roast beef1 or a small piece roasted on purpose1 after which a very plain currant pudding2 or1 occasionally1 a little pickled pork1 with pease pudding1 or roast pork1 with baked apples1 and now and then a little salt beef1 but very well boiled1 with suet dumplings1 and occasionally1 for change1 either bread1 vermicelli1 or tapioca puddings2 in case of illness1 and with the approbation of the doctor1 veal1 mutton1 or chicken-broth1 sago1 gruel1 panada1 c4 ,many people may perhaps imagine that there is too much variety of food for children1 but it is quite the contrary1 for change of food is to the stomach what change of air is to the general health2 and of course1 with children1 these changes must be effected with judgment40 ,soyer is perfectly right with regard to the question of variety of food for children2 and the intention is so rational1 that it is difficult to conceive how a difference of opinion can exist with regard to its truth2 and yet ,i have heard parents make a boast that their children were fed exclusively upon mutton1 as though it were their intention to render the stomach incapable of supporting and digesting any other kind of food1--in which they generally succeed4 ,sameness of food1 improper food1 defective ventilation1 and insufficient exercise1 are the causes of most of the diseases of children2 and especially of cutaneous complaints4 ,this is the secret of the ring-worms and scald-heads of public seminaries4 ,in some of these institutions1 as ,i have heard1 there is a ceremony in which the children take a public meal in the presence of the governors and their friends4 ,on these occasions1 the platters eclipse in whiteness the envious snow2 a suppressed burst of delight is heard from the spectators2 the morsel of cheese1 cut with mathematical precision1 would not vary a grain in the thousand platters2 the bread--what ingenuity6--each with his neighbour a very twin4 ,and how many days in the year do the children enjoy this fattening collation8--#cfe4 ,for three hundred and sixty-five days1 for a thousand children1 is this 8toujours perdrix0 feast the very same2 and yet there are people in the world who wonder that diseases should break out1 that skin affections should be rife1 that consumptions should prevail4 ,engraft a bud of ,soyer on such an institution1 and health and happiness1 learning1 ability1 and talent will take the place of disease1 melancholy1 stupidity1 and common-place intellect4 ,what1 now1 in this intelligent country1 if there were a college of cookery1 with ,soyer for its head8 99 99 99 99 99 ,now in progress1 ,soyer's ,plain ,cookery for the ,people1 ,,containing ,,numerous ,,recipes1 ,adapted for the ,cottage of the ,labourer1 the ,home of the ,artisan1 and the ,chamber of the ,invalid4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,note ,,by ,,the ,,author4 ,in the year #ahdf ,i published a work on ,cookery1 entitled 8,the ,gastronomic ,regenerator10 which was very successful4 ,at page #fej ,i observed that if any author were to write a work on the ,history of ,food and ,cookery1 it would not only be very interesting1 but also an extremely useful production4 ,no one1 however1 having entertained my suggestion1 ,i determined to undertake the task1 and1 after several years of deep study and perseverance1 have completed this voluminous work4 ,in the 8,modern ,housewife10 which ,i published in #ahdi1 treating of sauces prepared by the ancients1 ,i said1 that 8,in all ages and countries removed from barbarism1 where fish has formed an article of diet1 sauces of various kinds have been an accompaniment4 ,with the ,romans1 in the time of ,lucullus1 great care was observed in their preparation2 the most celebrated of those which they used were the ,garum and the ,muria4 8,the ,garum was a sauce which the ,romans used in nearly all their dishes2 the preference was given to that which came from ,antipolis and from ,dalmatia4 ,horace praises that made at ,byzantium1 being the most esteemed and the most expensive3 its composition is unknown40,i ,the epicures of the present day should offer a premium for that which1 in their opinion1 may bear the greatest resemblance to this ancient relish4 ,it is a subject well worthy the attention of the professors of our universities2 perhaps some leaf yet undiscovered1 that may have escaped the conflagration of ,alexandria1 might throw some light upon so interesting a subject4 ,a4 ,,soyer4 #db ,trinity ,square1 ,tower ,hill4 ,vizetelly and ,company1 ,printers and ,engravers1 #aee ,fleet ,street1 ,london4