,transcriber's ,note  ,italic text is   
marked with underscores1 bold text with 
tildes4                ,,jacquard       
,,machines             ,,instruction    
,,paper                ,h4 ,william     
,nelson       ,head of ,department of   
,weaving          ,lowell ,textile      
,school      ,,american ,,school ,,of   
,,correspondence     ,,chicago          
,,illinois                 ,u4 ,s4 ,a4  
,copyright #aiji by    ,american ,school
 of ,correspondence    ,entered at      
,stationers' ,hall1 ,london             
,all ,rights ,reserved                  
,illustration3 ,,cross ,,border         
,,double-,,lift ,,jacquard ,,machine    
,thomas ,halton's ,sons     ,,jacquard  
,,machines   ,the term ,jacquard        
,weaving may be applied to all harness  
weaving that is above the range of      
harness shafts1 so that a jacquard      
machine is simply a shedding motion     
whereby a large variety of sheds may be 
formed4 ,the greater the number of      
lifting hooks contained in a machine1   

the greater will be the range of        
patterns that may be woven4 ,jacquard   
machines range from #ajj to #bfjj hooks4
  ,since its introduction the jacquard  
machine has undergone many changes in   
regard to the methods of operating the  
different parts of the machine1 but the 
principles remain the same4  ,jacquard  
machines may be classed under four      
heads1 as follows3 ,first1 ,single      
,action ,machines1 meaning single       
cylinder machines2 second1 ,double-,lift
 ,single ,cylinder ,machines2 third1    
,double ,action ,machines1 meaning      
double-lift and two cylinders2 and      
fourth1 ,rise and ,fall ,machines1 which
 have a close-shed motion4 ,there are   
also special machines4  ,when speaking  
of a jacquard1 all the parts comprising 
the machine and the harnesses are       
included4 ,these may be classified as   
follows3  7a7 ,a number of wire hooks   
placed vertically in the frame of the   
machine4  7b7 ,a number of wire needles 
placed horizontally between the wire    

hooks4  7c7 ,a number of springs at one 
end of the needles4  7d7 ,tail cords or 
neck bands attached to the bottom of the
 wire hooks4  7e7 ,harness threads which
 are attached to a coupling that passes 
through the comber board4  7f7 ,the     
coupling1 which is usually composed of  
three or four parts as follows3  ,a     
lingo1 usually made of various weights  
of wire and which is at the extreme end 
of the coupling2 a double thread1       
commonly termed a hanger1 which attaches
 the lingo to a mail eye2 and the mail  
eye1 through which the warp yarn is     
passed4 ,when there are four parts1 a   
double thread termed the mid-piece or   
sleeper is attached to the top of the   
eyelet and is then fixed to the harness 
threads mentioned at e4  7g7 ,the       
cylinder and its working parts4  7h7    
,the griffe levers4  7i7 ,the griffe4   
,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,hooks ,resting
 on ,perforated ,board4                 
,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,flat ,hooks4  
,hooks4 ,a description of the great     

variety of hooks and needles which have 
been used and which combine different   
ideas as to their relative values and   
adaption for the various machines in    
which they were or are used1 will be    
both interesting and instructive4  ,in  
the old jacquard machine the hooks      
rested on a perforated board1 through   
which the neck cord passed1 and the     
bottom of the hook was bent up about    
five inches1 as shown in ,fig4 #a4 ,bars
 were passed through the turned up      
portion1 as shown in the illustration1  
to prevent the hooks from turning4 ,the 
bars formed a frame which was lifted    
when the griffe was raised4  ,the next  
hook1 as shown in ,fig4 #b1 was flat4   
,this also rested on a perforated board1
 and1 to assist in keeping the hook in  
position1 the needle was twisted around 
the hook4 ,this kind of hook and needle 
required too much time and labor when   
one had to be replaced4                 
,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,hook          
,sometimes ,used on ,french ,machines4  

,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,common        
,jacquard ,hook4  ,the illustration1    
,fig4 #c1 shows the next form of hook   
that was used1 and which is used at the 
present time in many ,french machines4  
,this also rested on a perforated board4
 ,the chief object of this hook was to  
remove the necessity of having springs  
to force back the needles4 ,at the point
 marked ,a1 a rod passed through the    
hooks from one side of the machine to   
the other1 which kept the hooks quite   
firm4 ,near the top of the hook at      
positions ,b and ,b1 two more rods were 
placed1 one being at the back of the    
hook and the other at the front1 the    
bottom of the hook being held firmly1   
while the rod ,b pressing against the   
back portion of the hook caused a       
certain amount of spring4  ,the rod ,b  
was to prevent the hook from swinging   
under the blades of the griffe when the 
latter was descending4 ,the needles used
 with this hook had an elbow which      
pressed against the front of the hook as

 shown at ,c4    ,illustration3 ,fig4   
#e4 ,showing ,deep ,griffe ,blades4     
,what we shall term the ordinary shaped 
hook1 but which formerly was much       
thicker1 was next used4 ,this is        
illustrated in ,fig4 #d4 ,the lower     
portion of these hooks passes through a 
grate1 each hook passing through a      
single slot4 ,when first used1 these    
hooks were often bent or crowned under  
the griffe as it descended4 ,in some    
cases the trouble was due to the wire   
from which the hook was made1 but more  
often it was due to there being too     
great a distance between the point where
 the needle was in contact with the     
hook1 and the griffe1 causing the hook  
to swing or vibrate4 ,to overcome this  
defect1 deep griffe blades 7shown in    
,fig4 #e7 were introduced4  ,the use of 
these deep blades made it difficult for 
the fixer to replace broken hooks1 in   
addition to adding weight to the        
machine1 so another change was made1    
deep and shallow blades being fixed     

alternately2 using hooks shown in ,fig4 
#f4 ,in this arrangement the long hooks 
had a tendency to swing back under the  
short blade owing to the great length of
 the hook1 when the loom was run at a   
high speed4    ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4 
,alternate ,arrangement of ,griffe      
,blades4  ,the hook illustrated in ,fig4
 #g was then introduced4 ,it will be    
noted the wire extends some distance    
beyond the point when the wire was bent 
to catch on the blade of the griffe4    
,while they were new1 these hooks       
overcame the difficulty to a certain    
extent1 but as soon as they became worn1
 the top portion of the wire would bend 
and break1 falling into the machine4    
,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,showing ,hook 
,extending ,above ,griffe4              
,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,hooks ,used at
 the ,present ,time4  ,in most of the   
jacquard machines used at the present   
time1 the griffe has been lowered to    
within approximately one inch of the top
 of the needles and the hooks have been 

made of stronger material 7shown in     
,fig4 #h71 enabling a more compact      
machine to be made4     ,,single        
,,action ,,machine     ,illustration3   
,fig4 #i4 ,single ,action ,jacquard     
,machine4  ,the illustration1 ,fig4 #i1 
shows a jacquard known as the ,single   
,action ,machine4 ,the chief feature of 
this machine is that the same griffe    
lifts the hooks for every shed1 so the  
griffe must descend before the next shed
 can be lifted4 ,this allows all the    
yarn to be lifted from the bottom shed4 
,the single action machine is convenient
 and well adapted to work when a high   
speed is not required2 ninety to one    
hundred thirty picks per minute being   
the most suitable speeds4  ,in the silk 
industry the single action machine is   
extensively used as there is no danger  
of the cards becoming crossed4 ,this is 
a very valuable feature as wrong picks  
are often placed in the cloth by a      
double cylinder machine through the     
skipping of the cards4  ,construction4  

,the single action is the original idea 
and is the simplest machine4 ,fig4 #aj  
shows a sectional view of a #djj-;hook  
single machine4 ,the meaning of the term
 #djj-;hook is as follows3 ,there are   
four hundred hooks and four hundred     
needles in the machine which are in rows
 of eight hooks and eight needles4 ,it  
also means that there are four hundred  
harness threads to one repeat of the    
maximum pattern that can be woven by the
 machine4 ,nearly all machines have a   
few extra hooks 7from #af to #bf7 which 
are often classed with the regular      
number of hooks1 but are chiefly used   
for extra work1 such as selvedge1 extra 
harnesses1 etc4 ,a pattern of less than 
four hundred to a repeat can be woven1  
by casting out some of the hooks4       
,referring to ,fig4 #aj1 ,b is the      
needle board or plate1 through which the
 points of the needles ,e protrude      
three-eighths or one-half inch4 ,c is   
the griffe which is composed of eight   
blades2 ,h is the spring box1 containing

 four hundred brass springs which are   
placed against the back or loop ends of 
the needles1 one spring for each needle4
 ,g is the grate through which the hooks
 ,f pass4  ,needle ,plate4 ,in some     
cases the needle plate is made of wood  
and in others it is made of metal1 but  
the former is undoubtedly the more      
economical from every standpoint4       
,particularly is this shown in the      
single cylinder machines where the      
cylinder travels at a faster rate of    
speed than a double cylinder machine1   
consequently there is more movement and 
a larger amount of friction between the 
needle and needle board or plate1 which 
results in rapidly wearing out the      
points of the needles if a metal plate  
is used4 ,worn needle points cause a    
large amount of trouble1 for in single  
cylinder machines the cylinder has a    
tendency to half-turn when the lay is   
pushed back by hand1 and when the       
cylinder returns to the needle points   
the corner of the cylinder presses      

against them and invariably bends a     
number of the points down on to the     
plate4 ,this prevents some of the hooks 
which ought to be lifted from being     
lifted1 and causes some hooks to be     
lifted which ought to be down4  ,a      
composition of powdered black lead and  
,french chalk was used to prevent the   
needle points from wearing out1 but it  
was discarded because the dust was      
constantly dropping into the harnesses  
and yarn1 and also was very disagreeable
 for the weaver4    ,illustration3 ,fig4
 #aj4 ,showing ,arrangement of ,hooks1  
,needles1     ,etc4  ,a needle board or 
plate for a #djj-machine1 has #daf      
holes1 arranged in #eb rows with #h     
holes in a row4 ,the rows are divided by
 a groove into #bf rows on each side4   
,there are also grooves at each end of  
the needle board4 ,the grooves are for  
the lacings which hold the cards        
together4  ,the lacing naturally makes  
the card occupy more space at the ends  
and center1 because it passes along the 

upper and under sides of the card1 and  
if there were no grooves in the needle  
board1 the needles would have to be made
 longer so as to allow the points to    
protrude farther out from the needle    
board2 or when the card was in contact  
with the needle points1 the hooks would 
not be pressed back far enough to       
prevent them from being lifted4 ,the    
grooves are also a great saving on the  
lacing of the cards1 for if it came in  
close contact with the needle board     
every time the cylinder was drawn in1   
the lacing would soon be cut1 and this  
often causes the breakage of cards4     
,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa4 ,showing      
,loops for ,springs4  ,the reason for   
the extra rows of needles1 is to allow  
the selvedge to be worked by that row of
 hooks2 also because a jacquard         
sometimes has patterns added that       
require additional harness at the front 
and back of the comber board1 and the   
extra needles are used for the working  
of the extra harness4  ,a spring box is 

seldom used on ,american machines to    
hold the springs that press back the    
needles1 but where the spring box is    
dispensed with1 a longer loop is made on
 the back end of the needle 7see ,fig4  
#aa7 and the spring is placed on the    
loop1 with the cotter1 which holds the  
needles4 ,the spring box1 however1 is   
most certainly of value if it is made to
 fit squarely in the framework of the   
machine4 ,the springs are kept cleaner  
and consequently will give good results2
 and if a spring should break1 it can be
 replaced more readily in a spring box  
than if it were on the end of a needle4 
,there is1 however1 one disadvantage in 
using the spring box1 for when the hole1
 through which the bolt1 which holds the
 box in position1 passes1 has become    
worn1 some of the needles will be       
pressing against the edge of the spring 
instead of the center1 unless care is   
taken in fixing on the box4 ,this causes
 the needles to stick in the box1       
preventing the hooks from working as    

they ought to do4    ,illustration3     
,fig4 #ab4 ,hooks ,out of ,perpendicular
 with     ,needles4  ,when placing hooks
 and needles in a machine1 one row of   
eight needles is placed in first2 that  
is1 the needles are passed through the  
bars that extend across the machine from
 side to side1 and into the holes in the
 needle board4 ,on the bars the loop of 
the needle rests1 the bars keeping each 
#eb needles separate4 ,the first needle 
is the one that has the half circle1    
through which the hook passes1 nearest  
the needle board at the top 7see ,fig4  
#aj71 and the others are graded down    
until the eighth is placed in4 ,this    
will be the bottom needle with the half 
circle nearest the spring box ,h4  ,when
 the cotter has been placed through the 
loop of the needles1 the hooks are      
placed in among the needles4 ,the first 
hook is pressed through the half circle 
of the needle and passes on the outside 
of the others1 which keeps the hook in  
position4 ,the second is placed through 

the half circle of the second needle1   
but passes on the outside of the first  
needle and on the outside of the lower  
needles4 ,this rule is followed out     
until the eighth hook is placed in      
position4    ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ac4  
,hooks ,out of ,perpendicular with      
,needles4  ,the grate through which the 
hooks pass is sometimes made with extra 
rows of holes1 and is also made so that 
it can be moved around to help in the   
setting of the hooks4 ,for this reason1 
it is best1 after placing in one row of 
hooks1 to notice if they are straight in
 the grate4 ,if they are not straight1  
and cannot be made straight by moving   
the grate1 the next row of holes must be
 used4 ,if the hooks are not straight1  
even though they may work freely1 the   
needles1 hooks and grate will be worn   
out in a very short time4  ,the hook    
that passes through the first needle is 
considered the first thread in the      
pattern1 although when standing in front
 of a single action machine1 it is the  

last thread4 ,in a machine that has the 
needle board divided into twenty-six    
rows at one side of the middle1 and     
twenty-five at the other side1 the      
twenty-six rows are always at the       
left-hand side of the machine1 looking  
at the point of the needles4 7,so that  
the number end of the cards will be at  
the left hand side of the machine1      
looking at the top needle board47  ,when
 all the needles and hooks have been    
placed in the machine1 the frame1 in    
which the bars that support the top of  
the needle are fixed1 must be made      
perfectly straight with the needle      
board4 ,if they are not straight with   
each other1 there is endless trouble    
with the machine4 ,in the first place1  
the loop of the needle presses down the 
spring when the needle is forced back by
 the card1 instead of pressing the      
spring back straight in the box4 ,this  
will cause the springs to wear out      
sooner and they will often stick1       
preventing the hooks from being lifted4 

,in the second place1 the needle points 
will not be straight in the needle      
board4 ,this causes the hole in the     
board to be worn crooked1 also1 the dust
 and oil that get into the back portion 
of the board has a greater tendency to  
bind the needles when they are not      
straight4 ,the holes in the needle board
 at the back are counter sunk1 which    
allows the needles to be placed in more 
readily when the machine is being fixed 
up1 or when a broken needle has to be   
replaced4  ,when the hooks and needles  
have been fixed1 the grate1 needle board
 and needle frame adjusted1 the spring  
box is attached and every needle is     
tested and made to work freely4 ,after  
this is done1 the griffe is placed in   
the machine4 ,it is absolutely necessary
 that the griffe be made to lift        
straight1 and each blade or knife must  
be in exact position relative to the    
hooks1 or there will be a number of the 
hooks either crowned or not lifted when 
they ought to be4 ,the griffe is made so

 that each side can be moved either     
forward or backward1 but it is sometimes
 necessary to bend one or two blades of 
the griffe so as to have them straight  
with the hooks4 ,figs4 #ab1 #ac and #ad 
show crooked hooks and needles4         
,illustration3 ,fig4 #ad4  ,when the    
griffe is set1 the top of the blade     
ought to be just touching the hook4 ,if 
the hook is pressing too hard against   
the blade1 either the needle point must 
extend farther out from the needle      
board1 or the cylinder has to press hard
 against the needle board when the hooks
 have to be pressed off the griffe4     
,either case is detrimental to the      
machine4 ,in the first instance1 the    
cylinder requires to pass farther out   
from the needle board1 to allow the     
cards to clear the needle points when   
the cylinder is being turned1 or there  
is a possibility of the edge of the card
 catching on the needle points1         
preventing the cylinder from turning1   
and causing misspicks4 ,in the second   

instance1 if the cylinder presses too   
hard against the needle board1 the      
lacing is often cut1 and the needles    
have a tendency to pierce the card where
 it is blank4    ,illustration3 ,fig4   
#ae4 ,showing ,overhead ,lever ,lift and
     ,independent ,batten ,motion4      
,having set all the inner parts of the  
machine1 the next in order is the tying 
on of the neck cords4 ,carelessness in  
the setting of the inner parts so far   
mentioned cannot afterwards be          
rectified1 and means the loss of years  
of work from the machine besides having 
endless trouble during the time it is   
working4  ,the ,outer ,workings of the  
,machine4 ,there are five distinct      
methods of operating the movable parts  
of the machine3 ,first1 top or overhead 
lever lift and independent batten or    
swing cylinder motion2 second1 overhead 
lever and spindle cylinder motion2      
third1 overhead lever and independent   
slide cylinder motion2 fourth1 bottom or
 cradle lever lift1 and independent     

spindle cylinder motion2 and fifth1     
bottom or cradle lever lift and spindle 
cylinder motion4  ,the first method is  
illustrated by ,fig4 #ae4 ,it consists  
of a lever at the top of the machine1 or
 in some instances suspended from the   
beam that supports the ceiling4 ,the    
inner end of the lever is connected by a
 link to the crossbar of the griffe4    
,this must be fixed exactly in the      
center of the crossbar so as to give a  
straight lift to the griffe4 ,to the    
outer end of the lever1 a long driving  
rod is attached4 ,the bottom end of the 
driving rod is placed on a stud attached
 to the hand wheel1 which is fixed on   
the crank shaft of the boom when the    
machine is a single lift4 ,the overhead 
lever is from thirty-six to forty inches
 long1 according to the width of the    
loom4 ,on the thirty-six inch lever the 
inner end1 which is attached to the     
crossbar from the link to the supporting
 stud1 fixed in the bracket attached to 
the framework of the machine1 is about  

ten and one-half inches long1 and the   
longer end1 which is attached to the    
lifting rod1 is twenty-four to          
twenty-five and two-thirds inches long4 
,the throw from the center of shaft to  
the stud fixed to the hand wheel is four
 inches4 ,this gives an eight inch      
stroke on the hand wheel4      #aj  #h  
-------   #c inches       #be  ,allowing
 for the fall of the griffe below the   
bend of the hook the movement will give 
about a three-inch shed in the          
harnesses4  ,the batten or swing        
cylinder movement is shown in detail in 
,fig4 #af4 ,it is composed of five      
distinct parts as follows3  7a7 ,two    
small arms are fixed at the top of the  
machine1 one at each side4 ,two pointed 
set screws with lock nuts are set in the
 arms and the batten or swing is        
supported on these points4  7b7 ,the    
batten1 which is in the form of a square
 iron frame4    ,illustration3 ,fig4    
#af4 ,details of ,batten or ,swing      
,cylinder     ,motion4  7c7 ,two cups   

set in the batten frame1 which support  
the cylinder4 ,the cups are made of iron
 or brass and are held in place by a    
bolt with thumb screw on the outside of 
the frame of the batten4 ,set into the  
bottom of the batten frame and pressing 
upwards against the cups1 are two set   
screws whose purpose is to raise or     
lower the cylinder4  7d7 ,the cylinder4 
,this is a square prism with a number of
 holes bored on each side to correspond 
with the needles in the machine4 ,on    
each of the four sides of the cylinder  
and near each end there is a small brass
 peg 7shown in ,fig4 #ag7 for the       
purpose of holding the card in the      
correct position on the cylinder4 7,the 
perforations in the cards should be over
 the holes in the cylinder74 ,the pegs  
are set so they can be adjusted to the  
right or left4 ,at the ends of the      
cylinder square iron castings with      
rounded edges are fixed4  7e7 ,a spring 
hammer1 the flat end of which rests on  
the casting on the end of the cylinder4 

,what might be termed the handle of the 
hammer passes through the lower cross   
rail of the bottom frames and through   
the top frame4 ,a spring is placed      
between the two rails and around the    
handle of the hammer4 ,the object of the
 hammer is to keep the cylinder         
perfectly level so that the cylinder    
will strike the board level4            
,illustration3 ,fig4 #ag4 ,spring ,peg4 
,illustration3 ,fig4 #ah4 ,cylinder ,out
 of ,true with ,needle ,board4  ,flat   
springs also are attached to the inside 
of the batten1 the lower end of the     
spring pressing the card to the         
cylinder4 ,it is impossible to          
overestimate the value of these springs1
 especially on single cylinder machines1
 for it would be almost impossible to   
work without them4 ,their great value is
 shown when the cylinder is leaving the 
needle board by preventing the card from
 swinging on to the points of the       
needles1 and also preventing the cards  
from slipping off the pegs as the       

cylinder is drawn over by the catch4    
,the catch is fixed to the framework of 
the machine1 and rests on the square    
casting fixed to the end of the         
cylinder4 ,as the cylinder moves out1   
the catch comes in contact with the     
rounded edges of the square and in this 
manner the cylinder is turned4 ,there is
 also another catch fixed underneath1   
but it is not in contact with the       
cylinder1 and is adjusted so that it can
 be raised up in contact and the top    
catch raised from contact with the      
cylinder4 ,this permits the cylinder to 
be turned back when a lost pick has to  
be found4    ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ai4  
,iron ,bar ,supporting ,batten ,frame4  
,at each side of the batten frame toward
 the lower end1 an arm is fixed4 ,to    
these arms rods that extend downward are
 attached1 and each rod is fixed to an  
arm that is set-screwed on a shaft      
supported by brackets fixed to the arch 
of the loom4 ,at the end of this shaft  
another arm is fixed and is connected to

 the eccentric rod that is attached to  
the clamp that encircles the cam or     
eccentric4 ,the cam is for the purpose  
of imparting motion to the batten4 ,the 
cam generally used to operate the batten
 is about three and one-half inches from
 center of movement to extreme outside  
length of cam4 ,the cylinder is moved   
out from the needle board from two to   
three inches4  ,for the saving of cards1
 a great deal depends upon the movement 
that is imparted to the cylinder4 ,the  
less movement that can be given to the  
cylinder1 the better2 that is1 of       
course1 when obtaining the results      
required4 ,the cylinder ought to be     
about one-quarter inch from the needle  
points when commencing to turn4         
,sometimes it is necessary to have the  
cylinder a little farther out1          
especially when the cards have been     
stored in a damp place and become warped
 so that they do not lie flat on the    
cylinder4 ,in this case1 unless the     
cylinder is a little farther out from   

the needle points when commencing to    
turn1 the edge of the card will catch on
 the needle points4 ,this will throw the
 cards off the pegs and cause a         
pick-out4 ,if the distance traveled by  
the cylinder is too short1 it causes too
 sharp a turning of the cylinder1 which 
has a tendency to jump the cards from   
the pegs2 and if the cylinder moves out 
too far1 there is too much friction on  
the working parts1 as the larger        
distance has to be traveled in the same 
space of time as the shorter distance4  
,illustration3 ,fig4 #bj4 ,spindle      
,cylinder ,motion4  ,when setting the   
batten frame by either the set screws or
 the arms to which the set screws are   
attached1 the principal point is that   
the cylinder must be flat against the   
needle board1 both at the top and bottom
 of the board1 and have the needle      
points as near the center of the holes  
in the cylinder as possible4 ,it is     
particularly desirable that all points  
be square and straight with the batten  

motion1 because the batten1 moving from 
a top connection1 performs an arc       
movement1 and if the cylinder does not  
lie flat against the needle board1 some 
of the hooks will not be pressed far    
enough off the griffe1 or the points of 
the needles will come in contact with   
the sides or bottom of the holes in the 
cylinder and in that case1 hooks will be
 down when they ought to be lifted4     
,fig4 #ah shows the cylinder set crooked
 with the needle board4  ,the set screw 
support for the batten frame is a very  
objectional feature as will readily be  
seen1 for the frame resting and working 
on two points is a great strain and some
 part of the screw soon becomes worn4   
,this1 of course1 lowers the cylinder4  
,when the cylinder is adjusted by       
turning the set screw1 the frame is not 
only raised higher but is moved to the  
right or left1 which throws the cylinder
 out of place1 thus making double the   
amount of work to adjust it4  ,the      
method of supporting a batten frame on  

an iron bar is by far the best1 as by   
this arrangement1 the cylinder can be   
directly adjusted4 ,the illustration    
given in ,fig4 #ai1 shows this method of
 supporting the cylinder4  ,in the      
second method of operating the movable  
parts 7see ,fig4 #bj7 the top motion    
remains the same as in the first1 but   
the method of operating the cylinder is 
different4 ,fixed to each side of the   
square iron frame that supports the     
cylinder1 is an iron spindle1 which     
passes through two brackets which act as
 slides for the spindle and are fixed to
 the frame of the machine4 ,attached to 
this cylinder spindle is a two-inch     
cranked slotted arm4 ,attached to the   
spindle of the griffe is a small        
extension on which an iron roller is    
placed4 ,this iron roller sets in the   
slot of the cranked arm2 the slot arm   
being about seven inches long4 ,the     
seven inches is divided into three      
parts1 the top and lower portions being 
perpendicular1 to allow a rest for the  

cylinder when it is out from the needle 
board1 and also when it is in contact   
with the needle board4 ,as the griffe is
 lifted1 the roller passing up the slot 
of the cranked arm forces out the       
cylinder4 ,the distance the cylinder is 
moved cannot be changed to any great    
extent1 neither can the time of the     
cylinder be changed1 so that when a     
warped set of cards is being used1 there
 is always the tendency for the cards to
 catch on the needle points4  ,in the   
third movement 7see ,fig4 #ba71 the top 
motion is the same as the first and     
second1 but the cylinder movement is    
distinct4 ,a flat1 iron casting which   
acts as a slide1 is placed on each side 
of the machine4 ,these slides are       
supported by small iron rollers1 which  
are placed in brackets fixed to the     
frame of the machine4 ,at the end of the
 slide1 a brass cup for the cylinder and
 the spring hammer is fixed4 ,a stud is 
attached to the slide4 ,the rod         
connected to the clamp of the cam 7or   

what is called the eccentric rod7       
extends upwards and is attached to an   
arm that is set-screwed on a shaft1 but 
extends upwards4 ,this movement is one  
of the best4 ,the brackets that support 
the rollers are adjustable but seldom in
 the life of a harness do they require  
adjusting1 for if the rollers are well  
oiled they last many years1 because the 
friction is at the lowest possible      
point4    ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ba4     
,showing ,overhead ,lever ,lift and     
,slide     ,cylinder ,motion4  ,in the  
fourth movement a square cradle lever is
 placed in brackets near the feet of the
 machine1 and connected to the top of   
the griffe spindle by means of an arm   
attached to the end of the cradle lever4
 ,this is shown in the double-lift      
machine1 ,fig4 #bb4 ,there is an arm at 
each side of the machine that is        
connected to the cradle lever4 ,to the  
outer end of the lever the long lifting 
rod is attached4 ,the length of the     
square lever is generally twenty-eight  

inches from fulcrum to connection of    
long lifting rod1 and ten inches on the 
shorter end4 ,this gives about a        
four-inch lift to the griffe4 ,the      
cylinder is driven by an independent    
spindle motion4 ,an iron spindle is     
attached to the frame that supports the 
cylinder4 ,the spindle passes through   
two slide brackets fixed to the sides of
 the machine4 ,between the two brackets 
and set-screwed on the spindle is an    
extension with a stud attached to the   
top of it4 ,on this stud1 the connecting
 arm from the lever is placed4 ,the     
lever is supported at the top of the    
same bracket that supports the square   
lifting lever4 ,to the outer end of the 
lever the eccentric rod is attached1 but
 instead of using a cam to give motion  
to the cylinder1 one part of a double   
crank is used1 the other portion is used
 for lifting the griffe4  ,the fifth    
method is the same as the fourth with   
the exception that the cylinder is      
operated by the slotted crank arm same  

as in the second method4                
,,double-,,lift ,,and ,,single          
,,cylinder ,,machines   ,the            
illustration1 ,fig4 #bb1 shows a machine
 of this type4 ,the same methods are    
used to operate this kind of machine as 
are used with the single action with    
this exception that there must be two   
lifting levers1 either overhead or      
cradle levers4 ,the reason for using    
this kind of machine is to have an open 
shed motion1 and to gain a little extra 
speed2 but this naturally drives the    
cylinder faster1 consequently there is a
 greater damage done to the cards unless
 great care is taken with them and      
additional appliances used to prevent   
them from jumping off the pegs4  ,the   
needles and hooks used in this kind of  
machine are shown in ,fig4 #bc4 ,each   
needle has two eyes or curves4 ,the     
reason for two eyes is as follows3      
,there is but one cylinder and two      
griffes1 one of which is descending     
while the other is ascending4 ,the      

cylinder has to pass in for every pick2 
that is1 for each lift of the griffe1   
which necessitates the use of double the
 number of hooks2 so that in a          
#djj-machine1 there are #hjj hooks1     
without the extra ones4 ,the top bend of
 every hook is turned in the same       
direction1 that is1 toward the needle   
board4  ,the hook that is used on this  
machine requires a deep bend at the top 
so as to have a firm grip on the griffe 
blade4 ,this is necessitated by the     
method of controlling two hooks with one
 needle1 for it sometimes happens that  
one hook is lifted while the other is   
pressed back by the cylinder1 so that   
the same thread will not be lifted for  
the next pick4  ,the bottom of the hook 
is made in the form of a capital letter 
,v4 ,the reason for this is that it     
saves a considerable amount of friction 
by allowing the bottom of the hook that 
is lifted to move back a little as the  
partner hook is being pressed by the    
needle4 ,this shape of hook saves the   

grate through which the bottom of the   
hook passes4 ,fig4 #bc shows the        
position occupied by the hooks when one 
hook is lifted and the other hook 7which
 passes through the same needle7 is     
pressed off4 ,the dotted lines show the 
original positions of the hooks4        
,illustration3 ,fig4 #bb4 ,double-,lift 
and ,single ,cylinder     ,machine4     
,illustration3 ,fig4 #bc4 ,needles and  
,hooks ,used in ,double-,lift     and   
,single ,cylinder ,machines4  ,in       
addition to the added friction on the   
needles and hooks1 it takes considerably
 more time to replace a worn needle than
 it does in machines where single       
needles are used1 for a rod has to be   
temporarily inserted that will press to 
one side the two hooks around which the 
needle has to go1 and it is often       
necessary to take out the hooks until   
the needle has been replaced1           
particularly if the machine is an old   
one1 or if deep blades are used in the  
griffe4     ,,double ,,action ,,machine 

,this means that there are two griffes  
and two cylinders4 ,the same methods are
 used to operate the moving parts1 as   
are used on the single action machines1 
but the lever and arms are used in a    
compound manner4 ,this machine is       
undoubtedly the best1 where large       
reproduction is aimed at1 for it can be 
run #agj or #ahj picks per minute4 ,the 
illustration1 ,fig4 #bd1 shows a double 
action machine4    ,illustration3 ,fig4 
#bd4 ,double ,action ,jacquard ,machine4
  ,the shedding motion is obtained by   
means of a double crank fixed on the end
 of the pick cam shaft1 and to which the
 long lifting rods are attached4 ,this  
is shown in ,fig4 #be4 ,cams have been  
used to take the place of the double    
crank1 so as to allow a dwell for the   
shed while the shuttle is passing       
through4 ,it is particularly desirable  
in a broad loom to have the shed full   
open for a longer period in order to    
give clearance for the shuttle1 but the 
cam motion was proven to be somewhat    

detrimental1 owing to the quick rise and
 fall of the harnesses1 which causes the
 lingoes to jump and to be constantly   
breaking off4 ,the neck cords also were 
constantly breaking4 ,the cam movement  
could be used successfully with a       
jacquard that had not many harness      
threads attached to the neck cords1 and 
had heavier lingoes fixed to the        
harnesses1 but for general use1 the     
double crank is best1 as it gives a more
 even movement4 ,there is also a short  
dwell while passing around the extended 
part of the crank4    ,illustration3    
,fig4 #be4  ,the time to set the crank  
is to have it level1 that is1 the two   
extreme points horizontal1 when the     
crank shaft is a little ahead of the    
bottom center1 or to have the reed about
 #a inches from the cloth when the shed 
is level4    ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bf4  
,showing ,connection of ,neck ,cords to 
,hooks4  ,owing to the general formation
 of the double action machine1 that is1 
the use of two hooks for one set of     

harness threads1 there is a somewhat    
uneven movement to the harnesses4 ,when 
a griffe is descending and some of the  
hooks that are on the griffe are to be  
lifted for the next shed1 and the hooks 
are passing each other at the center of 
movement1 the angle of the harness      
threads is changed1 for as one hook is  
lifted from the top shed1 the neck cord 
attached to the hook that is at the     
bottom is slack4 ,when this hook is     
raised for the next pick1 at the point  
when all the slack cord is taken up1 the
 uneven movement is caused1 the         
harnesses swinging over into the line   
with the lifting hook4 ,the results from
 this movement are not so harmful if the
 jacquard is tied up proportionally and 
run at the right speed2 but when the    
machine is run too fast and the lingoes 
are too light1 also when the neck cord  
is too short1 a large amount of trouble 
is caused4 ,instead of connecting the   
harnesses to the hooks1 by means of two 
neck cords1 one is used as shown in     

,fig4 #bf4 ,the link answers the purpose
 for which it is intended1 that is1 to  
take away the slack neck cord4 ,it also 
reduced the uneven movement4 ,however1  
unless the hooks are kept perfectly     
straight1 the link will not work1 and it
 is common for a hook to be bent a      
little underneath the grate4            
,illustration3 ,fig4 #bg4 ,arrangement  
of ,needles and ,hooks in     ,double   
,action ,machine4  ,when one neck cord  
breaks on the ordinary double action    
machine1 the defect is not readily seen1
 because the harness cord will be lifted
 by the other hook1 unless it is a      
pattern where that particular hook from 
which the cord has broken is lifted very
 often4 ,when the link is used1 all the 
harness threads that are attached to the
 link will fall1 owing to the use of    
only one neck cord2 this also occurs on 
the single action machine4  ,needles4   
,the illustration ,fig4 #bg shows the   
arrangement of needles in a double      
action machine4 ,the first needle at the

 top marked ,a1 controls the hook ,b1   
passing down in regular order until the 
bottom needle in the right hand needle  
board1 marked ,c1 controls the hook ,d4 
,the first needle in the left hand or   
bottom needle board1 marked ,e1 controls
 the hook ,f1 which is the partner to   
,d1 that is1 ,f and ,d control the same 
harness threads1 as will be noticed by  
the connection at the bottom ,g4 ,the   
eighth needle in the bottom needle      
board1 marked ,h1 controls the hook ,k1 
which is the partner hook to ,b4 ,the   
bottom set of needles is exactly like   
the top set4 ,they are placed in the    
same relative position1 but work from   
the opposite direction4  ,there being   
two cylinders on this type of machine1  
one passes in as the other is going out4
 ,both cylinders turn toward the machine
 as indicated by the arrows1 and a      
glance at the two cards ,a and ,b with  
holes marked #a and #b1 and needles     
marked the same will show the two hooks 
,f and ,d control the same harness      

threads4    ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bh4   
,showing ,levers1 ,supports and ,studs4 
,it will be noticed that one hook has   
the top bend bent backward1 while the   
other bends forward in the same         
direction as the lower bend of the hook4
 ,the reason for this latter is that it 
would require more space in the grate   
and the needles would have to be longer1
 which would make a broader machine if  
the same shape of hook were used2 so    
that by the use of these hooks1         
considerable space is gained4  ,when    
cutting cards for a double action       
machine1 each card is cut from the      
design singly1 just the same as if      
cutting cards for a single action       
machine4 ,after the cards are cut1 they 
are divided1 the odd numbers from the   
even numbers1 so that when laced they   
form1 as it were1 two sets of cards1 one
 set being placed at one side of the    
machine and the other set at the other  
side of the machine4  ,a double action  
machine is composed of double the number

 of working parts that are on a single  
action machine1 but they are placed so  
as to work in different directions1 with
 the exception that with an independent 
cylinder motion only one eccentric rod  
is used1 and the eccentric is placed on 
the pick cam shaft4 ,but if the         
cylinders are operated by a spindle     
motion1 a slotted crank arm is attached 
to the lifting rod of each griffe and   
the cylinder is moved out as the griffe 
to which it is attached is raised1 one  
cylinder moving out from contact with   
the needle board as the griffe1 that    
comes in contact with the hook          
controlled by the needles of that board1
 is raised1 at the same time the other  
cylinder is passing in towards the      
needle board while the second griffe is 
descending4    ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bi4
 ,rack ,method of ,lifting ,griffe4     
,when using the cradle lever on a double
 action machine1 it is necessary to have
 two different sizes of lifting cranks  
to allow extra lift for the difference  

in length of the levers1 owing to one of
 the levers working on the inside of the
 other4 ,the length of levers used is   
about #cj inches for the longer end1    
from fulcrum to connection of lifting   
rod1 and #ac inches for the shortest end
 on the longer lever4 ,fulcrum to       
connection of lifting arm on the shorter
 lever is #be inches1 and #aj inches on 
the shorter end4 ,the double crank is   
made so that the one with the #ab-;inch 
stroke is attached to the shorter lever1
 and the #aj-;inch stroke operates the  
longer lever4    ,illustration3 ,fig4   
#cj4 ,pulley and ,belt for ,lifting     
,griffe4  ,the cradle lever lift is used
 only on machines that have the         
harnesses attached to them by the cross 
tie system1 because by the straight tie 
system the machine is turned in the     
opposite direction2 that is1 one set of 
cards would be over the cloth in the    
loom1 and the other set over the warp2  
and in the cross tie system the cards   
are over the sides of the loom or over  

shuttle boxes4  ,the top lever lift is  
considered by many to be the best method
 of operating the griffes1 and this     
method can be used whether the harnesses
 are attached by the straight tie or the
 cross tie system4 ,all that is required
 to be changed is that where as in the  
straight tie both the levers are on the 
same stud1 and fixed to one support1 the
 levers for the cross tie are placed on 
separate studs with separate supports4  
,the reason for using separate supports 
and studs is to meet the different      
positions of the griffe bar4 7,see ,fig4
 #bh47  ,other lifting methods have been
 successfully tried on double action    
machines2 one being a rack movement     
shown in ,fig4 #bi and another a pulley 
and belt lift shown in ,fig4 #cj4  ,the 
rack movement is as follows3 ,a #a-;inch
 iron shaft is supported in bearings    
fixed to the top of the machine4 ,this  
shaft extends over the end of the       
machine4 ,the supports are bolted to the
 cross rail of the griffe1 and on these 

supports the racks are fixed4 ,the shaft
 passes between the two racks1 and the  
gear is fixed on the shaft in contact   
with the rack4 ,an arm is set-screwed on
 the outer end of the shaft1 and to this
 arm a long lifting rod is attached4    
,the bottom of the rod is placed on a   
stud attached to the face of a round    
iron plate that is set-screwed on the   
pick cam shaft4    ,illustration3 ,fig4 
#ca4 ,type of ,rise and ,fall ,machine4 
,in ,fig4 #cj the pulley ,a is supported
 on a shaft in the same position as the 
gear for the rack motion1 and to the    
pulley a strip of belting ,b is         
attached1 each end being fixed to the   
cross rail of the griffe at ,c4 ,the    
belt motion is a simple arrangement1 but
 the griffe must act freely and         
perfectly straight or the griffe will   
not descend low enough to allow the     
hooks to be pressed off by the cylinder4
     ,,the ,,rise ,,and ,,fall ,,or     
,,close ,,shed ,,machine   ,the         
illustration1 ,fig4 #ca1 shows a machine

 of this type4 ,its purpose is to have  
all the harnesses level at the center   
movement4 ,the same working parts are   
used on this machine as are used on the 
single action1 the distinctive          
difference being that cranked levers are
 attached to the usual lifting levers so
 that the grate through which the hooks 
pass can be raised and lowered1 and so  
that the griffe is raised only half the 
usual distance4  ,after the cylinder has
 pressed off the hooks that are not to  
be lifted1 the grate descends with these
 hooks1 and at the same time the griffe 
raises the hooks that are to be lifted4 
,on some rise and fall machines1 a      
batten cylinder motion is used1 but is  
fixed in the opposite position from the 
usual batten motion2 that is1 the batten
 swings from the bottom instead of from 
the top of the machine1 the set screws  
that hold it in position being placed in
 brackets fixed near the feet of the    
machine4  ,these machines cannot be run 
at a high speed1 #acj being considered  

average1 but faster speed is obtained   
when the pattern is equally balanced so 
that about the same number of ends are  
raised1 as are falling4 ,this style of  
machine is now extensively used for     
weaving table cloths1 silk goods1 etc4  
,,examination ,,paper   ,,jacquard      
,,machines  ,read carefully3 ,place your
 name and full address at the head of   
the paper4 ,any cheap1 light paper like 
the sample previously sent you may be   
used4 ,do not crowd your work1 but      
arrange it neatly and legibly4 ,do not  
copy the answers from the ,instruction  
,paper2 use your own words1 so that we  
may be sure that you understand the     
subject4       #a4 ,to what may the term
 ,jacquard ,weaving be applied8      #b4
 ,what are the classifications of       
,jacquard machines8      #c4 ,what are  
the chief features of the single action 
machine8      #d4 ,in what industry is  
the single action machine most          
extensively     used8      #e4 ,what is 
the use of the extra row of needles in  

the single     action machine8      #f4 
,how many methods are there for         
operating the movable parts of     a    
machine1 and what are they8      #g4    
,what are the reasons for using         
double-lift and single     cylinder     
machines8      #h4 ,why do the needles  
of double-lift and single cylinder      
machines     have two eyes8      #i4    
,why does the hook on a double-lift and 
single cylinder machine     require a   
deep band at the top8      #aj4 ,why is 
the bottom of the hook made like the    
capital letter ,v8      #aa4 ,describe  
in detail a double action machine4      
#ab4 ,why are two different sizes of    
lifting cranks necessary in     using a 
cradle lever on a double action machine8
      #ac4 ,what is the rack movement8  
#ad4 ,describe the rise and fall        
machine4      #ae4 ,describe fully the  
working of the ,jacquard machine4       
#af4 ,how are the cords handled in a    
,jacquard machine8   ,after completing  
the work1 add and sign the following    

statement3      ,i hereby certify that  
the above work is entirely my own4      
7,signed7     ,transcriber's ,note      
,minor punctuation errors have been     
corrected4 ,hyphenation has been made   
consistent4  ,the following amendment   
has been made3      ,page               
#bj--;extention amended to              
extension--444 is a small     extention 
on which an iron roller is placed4