,a ,,practical ,,treatise ,,on ,,the ,,manufacture ,,of ,,perfumery3 ,,comprising ,,directions ,,for ,,making ,,all ,,kinds ,,of ,,perfumes1 ,,sachet ,,powders1 ,,fumigating ,,materials1 ,,dentifrices1 ,,cosmetics1 ,,etc41 ,,etc41 ,,with ,a ,,full ,,account ,,of ,,the ,,volatile ,,oils1 ,,balsams1 ,,resins1 ,,and ,,other ,,natural ,,and ,,artificial ,,perfume-,,substances1 ,,including ,,the ,,manufacture ,,of ,,fruit ,,ethers1 ,,and ,,tests ,,of ,,their ,,purity4 ,,by ,,dr4 ,c4 ,,deite1 ,,assisted ,,by ,l4 ,,borchert1 ,f4 ,,eichbaum1 ,e4 ,,kugler1 ,h4 ,,toeffner1 ,,and ,,other ,,experts4 ,,from ,,the ,,german ,,by ,,william ,t4 ,,brannt1 ,,editor ,,of ,,the ,,techno-,,chemical ,,receipt-,,book4 ,,illustrated ,,by ,,twenty-,,eight ,,engravings4 ,,philadelphia3 ,,henry ,,carey ,,baird ,,co41 ,,industrial ,,publishers1 ,,booksellers ,,and ,,importers1 #haj ,,walnut ,,street4 #ahib4 ,,copyright ,,by ,,henry ,,carey ,,baird ,,co4 #ahib4 ,,printed ,,at ,,the ,,collins ,,printing ,,house1 #gje ,jayne ,street1 ,,philadelphia1 ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 ,,preface4 ,a translation of the portion of the ,handbuch der ,parfmerie-und ,toiletteseifenfabrikation1 edited by ,dr4 ,c4 ,,deite1 relating to perfumery and cosmetics1 is presented to the ,english reading public with the full confidence that it will not only fill a useful place in technical literature1 but will also prove--for what it is chiefly intended--a ready book of reference and a practical help and guide for the perfumer's laboratory4 ,the names of the editor and his co-workers are a sufficient guaranty of its value and practical usefulness1 they all being experienced men1 well schooled each in the particular branch of the industry1 the treatment of which has been assigned to him4 ,the most suitable and approved formul1 tested by experience1 have been given2 and special attention has been paid to the description of the raw materials1 as well as to the various methods of testing them1 the latter being of special importance1 since in no other industry has the manufacturer to contend with such gross and universal adulteration of raw materials4 ,it is hoped that the additions made here and there by the translator1 as well as the portion relating to the manufacture of ,fruit ,ethers1 added by him1 may contribute to the interest and usefulness of the treatise4 ,finally1 it remains only to be stated that1 with their usual liberality1 the publishers have spared no expense in the proper illustration and the mechanical production of the book2 and1 as is their universal practice1 have caused it to be provided with a copious table of contents and a very full index1 which will add additional value by rendering any subject in it easy and prompt of reference4 ,w4 ,t4 ,b4 ,,philadelphia1 ,may #b1 #ahib4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,historical ,,notice ,,of ,,perfumery4 ,,page ,consumption of perfume-substances by the early nations of the ,orient #ag ,perfume-substances as an offering to the gods and their use for embalming the dead2 ,arts of the toilet in ancient times #ah ,perfume-substances used by the ,hebrews2 ,olibanum and the mode of gaining it in ancient times1 as described by ,herodotus #ai ,pliny's account of olibanum #bj ,practice of anointing the entire body customary among the ancients2 ,the holy oil prescribed by ,moses2 ,origin of the sweet-scented ointment myron #ba ,luxurious use of ointments in ,athens1 and the special ointments used for each part of the body2 ,introduction of ointments in ,rome1 and edict prohibiting the sale of foreign ointments2 ,plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in ,rome #bb ,ancient books containing directions for preparing ointments2 ,directions for rose ointment1 according to ,dioscorides #bc ,ancient process of distilling volatile oils2 ,dioscorides's directions for making animal fats suitable for the reception of perfumes2 ,consumption of perfume-substances by the ancient ,romans2 ,condition of the ancient ointment-makers #bd ,use of red and white paints1 hair-dyes1 and depilatories by the ,romans #be ,peculiar substance for cleansing the teeth used by the ,roman ladies2 ,perfumeries and cosmetics in the ,middle ,ages2 ,receipts for cosmetics in the writings of ,arabian physicians1 and of ,guy de ,chanlios #bf ,giovanni ,marinello's work on ,cosmetics for ,ladies2 ,introduction of the arts of the toilet into ,france1 by ,catherine de ,medici and ,margaret of ,valois #bg ,extravagant use of cosmetics in ,france from the commencement of the seventeenth to the middle of the eighteenth century #bh ,importance of the perfumer's craft in ,france2 ,chief seats of the ,french perfumery industry #bi ,privileges of the parfumeurs-gantiers in ,france2 ,use of perfumes in ,england2 ,act of ,parliament prohibiting the use of perfumeries1 false hair1 etc41 for deceiving a man and inveigling him into matrimony #cj ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,the ,,perfume-,,materials ,,for ,,the ,,manufacture ,,of ,,perfumery4 ,derivation of the perfume-substances2 ,animal substances used2 ,occurrence of volatile oils in plants #ca ,families of plants richest in oil2 ,central ,europe the actual flower garden of the perfumer2 ,principal localities for the cultivation of plants #cb ,volatile oils and their properties #cc ,principal divisions of volatile oils #cd ,constitution of terpenes2 ,concentrated volatile oils #ce ,modes of gaining volatile oils2 ,expression #cf ,clarification of the oil #cg ,filter for clarifying the oil1 illustrated and described #ch ,distillation #ci ,apparatus for determining the percentage of volatile oil a vegetable substance will yield1 illustrated and described #dj ,various stills for the distillation of volatile oils1 illustrated and described #da ,distillation of volatile oils by means of hot air2 ,separation of the oil and water2 ,florentine flasks1 illustrated and described #df ,separator-funnel1 illustrated and described #dg ,extraction #dh ,various apparatuses for extraction1 illustrated and described #di ,heyl's distilling apparatus #eg ,maceration or infusion2 ,pomades2 ,purification of the fats used in the maceration process #eh ,huiles antiques2 ,old ,french process of maceration2 ,piver's maceration apparatus1 illustrated and described #ei ,flowers for which maceration is employed2 ,absorption or enfleurage #fj ,apparatuses for absorption1 illustrated and described #fa ,flowers for which the absorption process is employed2 ,storage of volatile oils #fe ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,testing ,,volatile ,,oils4 ,extensive adulteration of volatile oils2 ,testing volatile oils as to odor and taste #ff ,recognition of an adulteration with fat oil #fg ,detection of alcohol or spirit of wine2 ,dragendorff's test #fh ,hager's tannin test #fi ,detection of chloroform2 ,detection of benzine #ga ,quantitative determination of adulterations with alcohol1 chloroform1 and benzine #gb ,detection of adulterations with terpenes or terpene-like fluids #gc ,detection of adulterations with volatile oils of a lower quality2 ,test with iodine #gd ,hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test #ge ,table showing the behavior of volatile oils free from oxygen towards nitroprusside of copper #gf ,hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test2 ,hager's guaiacum reaction #gh ,division of the volatile oils with reference to the guaiacum reaction #gi ,hbl's iodine method #hj ,a4 ,kremel's test by titration or saponification with alcoholic potash lye #ha ,utilization of ,maumen's test by ,f4 ,r4 ,williams #hb ,planchon's proposed procedure for the recognition of a volatile oil #hc ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,the ,,volatile ,,oils ,,used ,,in ,,perfumery4 ,acacia oil or oil of cassie2 ,almond oil 7bitter7 #hg ,adulterations of oil of bitter almonds and their detection #ij ,angelica oil #ib ,anise-seed oil #ic ,star anise oil #id ,balm oil2 ,basil oil2 ,bayberry oil1 or oil of bay leaves #if ,bergamot oil2 ,testing bergamot oil as to its purity #ig ,cajeput oil #ih ,camomile or chamomile oil2 ,blue camomile oil2 ,green camomile oil #ii ,caraway oil2 ,recognition of the purity of caraway oil #ajj ,cedar oil2 ,cherry-laurel oil #aja ,detection of oil of mirbane in cherry-laurel oil2 ,cinnamon oils2 ,ceylon cinnamon oil #ajb ,cassia oil #ajc ,cinnamon-root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves2 ,quantitative determination of cinnamaldehyde in cassia oil #ajd ,detection of adulterations in cassia oil2 ,citron oil #ajf ,detection of adulterations in citron oil2 ,citronella oil2 ,detection of adulterations in citronella oil #ajg ,oil of cloves #ajh ,test for the value of oil of cloves #aji ,eucalyptus oil #aaj ,fennel oil #aaa ,geranium oil1 palmarosa oil1 ,turkish geranium oil2 ,east ,indian geranium oil2 ,french and ,african geranium oils #aab ,adulterations of geranium oils2 ,jasmine oil1 or oil of jessamine #aac ,juniper oil #aad ,lavender oil2 ,spike oil #aae ,detection of adulterations of lavender oil2 ,lemon oil2 ,sponge process of obtaining lemon oil #aaf cuelle process #aag ,distillation2 ,apparatus combining the cuelle and distilling processes1 illustrated and described #aah ,adulterations of oil of lemons and their detection3 ,lilac oil2 ,oil of limes #aba ,licari oil1 linalo oil2 ,marjoram oils2 ,spanish marjoram oil #abb ,mignonette oil2 ,myrrh oil #abc ,nutmeg oils2 ,mace oil2 ,adulterations of mace oil and their detection #abd ,opopanax oil2 ,orange-peel oil1 ,portugal oil or essence of ,portugal2 ,mandarin oil #abe ,orange-flower oil or neroli oil2 ,neroli ,portugal oil2 ,cultivation of the orange on the ,french ,riviera and yield of orange blossoms2 ,characteristics of oil of orange flowers #abf ,adulterations of neroli oil and their detection #abg ,petit-grain oil2 ,oil of orris root #abi ,patchouli oil #acj ,varieties and characteristics of patchouli oil #aca ,peppermint oil2 ,oil of curled mint2 ,peppermint oil and its varieties #acb ,american oils of peppermint of high reputation2 ,mode of distinguishing ,american1 ,german1 and ,english oils of peppermint #acc ,adulterants of peppermint oil and their detection #acd ,poley oil #ace ,pimento oil or oil of allspice2 ,rose oil or attar of roses2 ,principal localities of its production2 ,schimmel ,co4's1 of ,leipzic1 ,germany1 experiment to obtain oil from indigenous roses #acf ,the rose-oil industry in ,bulgaria2 ,methods of gathering and distilling the roses #acg ,characteristics of pure rose oil #ach ,manner of judging the genuineness of rose oil2 ,process for the insulation and determination of stearoptene in rose oil #aci ,adulteration of rose oil with ginger-grass oil #adj ,test for the adulteration of rose oil with ginger-grass oil employed in ,bulgaria #ada ,adulterants of rose oil #adb ,tests for rose oil2 ,approximate quantitative determination of spermaceti in rose oil #adc ,rosemary oil2 ,detection of adulterations in rosemary oil #add ,rosewood oil or rhodium oil2 ,sandal-wood oil2 ,sassafras oil2 ,characteristics of sassafras oil #ade ,thyme oil #adg ,oil of turpentine2 ,austrian oil of turpentine2 ,german oil of turpentine2 ,french oil of turpentine2 ,venetian oil of turpentine #adh ,american oil of turpentine2 ,pine oil2 ,dwarf pine oil2 ,krummholz or ,latschenoel2 ,pine-leaf oil2 ,templin oil 7,kienoel72 ,balsam-pine oil #adi ,oil of verbena2 ,oil of violet2 ,vitivert or vetiver oil #aej ,wintergreen oil #aea ,birch oil2 ,artificial preparation of methyl salicylate #aeb ,adulteration of wintergreen oil and its detection2 ,ylang-ylang oil #aec ,cananga oil #aed ,,chapter ,v4 ,,resins ,,and ,,balsams4 ,elementary constituents of resins2 ,division of resins2 ,hard resins2 ,soft resins or balsams2 ,gum-resins #aee ,diffusion of resins in the vegetable kingdom2 ,benzoin #aef ,varieties of benzoin and their characteristics #aeg ,peru balsam and mode of obtaining it #aei ,white ,peru balsam #afj ,characteristics of ,peru balsam #afa ,adulterants of ,peru balsam and their detection #afb ,tolu balsam and its characteristics #aff ,a new variety of ,tolu balsam #afg ,storax2 ,liquid storax and its characteristics #afh ,adulteration of liquid storax and its detection #agj ,storax in grains2 ,ordinary storax #aga ,american storax1 white ,peru balsam1 white ,indian balsam1 or liquid-ambar2 ,myrrh #agb ,myrrha electa and its characteristics #agc ,constitution of myrrh #agd ,adulteration of myrrh and its detection #age ,opopanax2 ,olibanum or frankincense #agf ,commercial varieties of olibanum2 ,sandarac and its characteristics #agg ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,perfume-,,substances ,,from ,,the ,,animal ,,kingdom4 ,musk and its varieties2 ,musk sacs1 illustrated and described #agh ,characteristics of ,tonkin musk #ahj ,musk of the ,american musk-rat as a substitute for genuine musk #aha ,other possible substitutes for the musk-deer2 ,artificial musk #ahb ,adulterations of musk and their detection #ahc ,civet #ahd ,castor and its varieties #ahe ,adulterations of castor2 ,ambergris #ahf ,constituents of ambergris #ahg ,adulterations of ambergris #ahh ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,artificial ,,perfume-,,materials4 ,conversion of oil of turpentine into oil of lemons by ,bouchardat and ,lafont #ahi ,cumarin1 its occurrence and properties #aij ,varieties of tonka beans found in commerce #aia ,preparation of cumarin from tonka beans2 ,artificial preparation of cumarin from salicylic acid #aib ,synthetical preparation of cumarin2 ,heliotropin or piperonal and its characteristics #aic ,preparation of heliotropin #aid ,vanillin2 ,characteristics of the vanilla #aie ,artificial preparation of vanillin #aif ,characteristics of vanillin #aig ,adulteration of vanillin1 and its detection2 ,nitrobenzol #aih ,characteristics of nitrobenzol or oil of mirbane2 adulteration of nitrobenzol and its detection #aii ,fruit ethers and their characteristics #bjj ,acetic amyl ether or amyl acetate1 its preparation and use2 ,acetic ether or ethyl acetate and its preparation #bja ,benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate and its preparation #bjd ,butyric ethyl ether or ethyl butyrate2 ,preparation of butyric acid #bje ,preparation of butyric ether #bjg ,st4 ,john's bread or carob as material for the preparation of butyric ether #bji ,formic ethyl ether1 or ethyl formate and its preparation #baj ,nitrous ether or ethyl nitrate and its preparation according to ,kopp's method #baa ,preparation and use of nitrous ether in ,england and ,america #bab ,valerianic amyl ether or amyl valerate and its preparation #bad ,valerianic ethyl ether2 ,apple ether2 ,apricot ether2 ,cherry ether2 ,pear ether2 ,pineapple ether2 ,strawberry ether2 ,preparation of fruit essences2 ,apple essence2 ,apricot essence #baf ,cherry essence2 ,currant essence2 ,grape essence2 ,lemon essence2 ,melon essence2 ,orange essence2 ,peach essence2 ,pear essence2 ,pineapple essence2 ,plum essence #bag ,raspberry essence2 ,strawberry essence #bah ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,alcoholic ,,perfumes4 ,division of alcoholic perfumes2 ,what constitutes the art of the perfumer2 ,qualities of flower-pomades and their designation #bai ,storage of flower-pomades2 ,extraction of flower-pomades #bbj ,apparatus for making alcoholic extracts from flower-pomades1 illustrated and described #bba ,beyer frres improved apparatus1 illustrated and described #bbc ,tinctures and extracts and their preparation #bbe ,beyer frres apparatus for the preparation of tinctures1 illustrated and described #bbf ,musk tincture2 ,civet tincture #bbh ,ambergris tincture2 ,castor tincture2 ,benzoin tincture2 ,peru balsam tincture2 ,tolu balsam tincture #bbi ,olibanum tincture2 ,opopanax tincture2 ,storax tincture2 ,myrrh tincture2 ,musk-seed or abelmosk tincture #bcj ,angelica root tincture2 ,orris-root tincture2 ,musk-root or sumbul-root tincture2 ,tonka-bean tincture #bca ,cumarin tincture2 ,heliotropin tincture2 ,vanilla tincture2 ,vanillin tincture #bcb ,vitivert tincture2 ,juniper-berry tincture2 ,patchouli extract #bcc ,tinctures from volatile oils2 ,almond-oil 7bitter7 tincture2 ,balm-oil tincture2 ,bergamot-oil tincture2 ,canango-oil tincture #bcd ,cassia-oil tincture2 ,cedar-oil tincture2 ,cinnamon-oil tincture2 ,citronella-oil tincture2 ,clove-oil tincture2 ,eucalyptus-oil tincture2 ,geranium-oil tincture2 ,lavender-oil tincture2 ,lemon-grass-oil tincture2 ,lemon-oil tincture2 ,licari-oil tincture2 ,myrrh-oil tincture2 ,neroli-oil tincture2 ,opopanax-oil tincture2 ,orris-root-oil tincture2 ,patchouli-oil tincture #bce ,petit-grain-oil tincture2 ,pine-leaf-oil tincture2 ,portugal-oil tincture2 ,sandal-wood-oil tincture2 ,verbena-oil tincture2 ,vitivert-oil tincture2 ,wintergreen-oil tincture2 ,ylang-ylang-oil tincture2 ,rose-oil tincture #bcf ,extraits aux fleurs2 ,extrait acacia2 ,extrait cassie2 ,extrait hliotrope2 ,extrait jacinthe #bcg ,extrait jasmin2 ,essence of the odor of linden blossoms2 ,extrait jonquille2 ,extrait magnolia2 ,extrait muguet 7lily of the valley72 ,extrait fleurs de ,mai 7,may flowers7 #bch ,extrait ixora2 ,extrait orange2 ,extrait white rose2 ,extrait rose v4 d4 centifolie2 ,extrait violette2 ,coloring substance for extraits2 ,extrait de violette de ,parme #bci ,extrait tubereuse2 ,extrait rsda2 ,extrait ylang-ylang2 ,compound odors 7bouquets72 ,extrait ,edelweiss2 ,extrait ess-bouquet #bdj ,extrait spring flower2 ,extrait bouquet ,eugenie2 ,extrait excelsior2 ,extrait ,frangipani2 ,extrait jockey club #bda ,extrait opopanax2 ,extrait patchouli2 ,extrait millefleurs2 ,extrait bouquet ,victoria #bdb ,extrait kiss-me-quick2 ,extrait mogadore2 ,extrait bouquet ,prince ,albert2 ,extrait muse2 ,extrait new-mown hay2 ,extrait chypre #bdc ,extrait marchal2 ,extrait mousseline2 ,extraits triple concentrs and their preparations #bdd ,concentrated flower-extract for the preparation of extraits d',odeurs2 ,extraits d',odeurs1 quality ,,ii #bde ,extrait violette ,,ii2 ,extrait rose ,,ii2 ,extrait rsda ,,ii2 ,extrait ylang-ylang ,,ii #bdf ,extrait new-mown hay ,,ii2 ,extrait chypre ,,ii2 ,extrait ess-bouquet ,,ii #bdg ,extrait muguet ,,ii2 ,extrait bouquet ,victoria ,,ii2 ,extrait spring flower ,,ii2 ,extrait ixora ,,ii #bdh ,extrait ,frangipani ,,ii2 ,cologne water 7eau de ,cologne7 and its preparation #bdi ,durability of the volatile oils used in the preparation of ,cologne water #bej ,cologne water1 quality ,i #beb ,cologne water1 quality ,,ii2 ,cologne water1 quality ,,iii2 ,cologne water1 quality ,,iv2 ,cologne water1 quality ,v #bec ,maiglckchen eau de ,cologne2 ,various other receipts for ,cologne water #bed ,eau de ,lavande2 ,eau de vie de ,lavande double ambre2 ,eau de ,lavande double2 ,aqua mellis2 ,eau de ,lisbonne #bee ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,dry ,,perfumes4 ,use of dry perfumes in ancient times2 ,sachet powders and their preparation #bef ,sachet la rose2 ,sachet la violette2 ,heliotrope sachet powder2 ,ylang-ylang sachet powder2 ,jockey club sachet #beg ,sachet aux millefleurs2 ,lily of the valley sachet powder2 ,patchouli sachet powder2 ,frangipani sachet powder2 ,victoria sachet powder2 ,rsda sachet powder #beh ,musk sachet powder2 ,ess-bouquet sachet powder2 ,new-mown hay sachet powder2 ,orange sachet powder2 ,solid perfumes with paraffine2 ,white rose #bei ,ess-bouquet2 ,lavender odor2 ,eau de ,cologne2 ,smelling salts2 ,preston salt and menthol pungent as prepared by ,william ,w4 ,bartlett2 ,white smelling salt #bfj ,,chapter ,x4 ,,fumigating ,,essences1 ,,pastilles1 ,,powders1 ,,etc4 ,constitution of fumigating agents2 ,object of fumigating2 ,prejudice against fumigating2 ,mode of fumigating #bfb ,atomizers2 ,objections to dry fumigating agents #bfc ,fumigating essences and vinegars2 ,rose-flower fumigating essence2 ,flower fumigating essence--hliotrope #bfd ,violet-flower fumigating essence2 ,oriental flower fumigating essence2 ,pine odor 7for atomizing72 ,juniper odor2 fumigating balsam #bfe ,fumigating water2 ,fumigating vinegar2 ,fumigating powders2 ,ordinary fumigating powder #bff ,rose fumigating powder2 ,violet fumigating powder2 ,orange fumigating powder2 ,new-mown hay fumigating powder #bfg ,fumigating paper2 ,fumigating pastilles #bfh ,ordinary red fumigating pastilles2 ,ordinary black fumigating pastilles2 ,musk fumigating pastilles #bfi ,rose fumigating pastilles2 ,violet fumigating pastilles2 ,millefleurs fumigating pastilles2 ,fumigating lacquer #bgj ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,dentifrices1 ,,mouth-,,waters1 ,,etc4 ,selection of materials for and compounding of dentifrices #bgb ,soap as a constituent of dentifrices2 ,value of thymol for dentifrices2 ,object of glycerin in dentifrices #bgc ,tooth and mouth waters2 ,thymol tooth-water2 ,eau dentifrice ,botot2 ,eau dentifrice ,orientale #bgd ,violet mouth-water2 ,antiseptic gargle2 ,odontine2 ,sozodont2 ,eau de ,botot 7improved7 #bge ,quinine tooth-water2 ,dr4 ,stahl's tooth-tincture2 ,esprit de menthe2 ,arnica tooth-tincture2 ,myrrh tooth-tincture #bgf ,tooth-pastes and tooth-powders2 tooth-paste or odontine #bgg ,thymol tooth-paste2 ,cherry tooth-paste2 ,non-fermenting cherry tooth-paste2 ,odontine paste #bgh ,thymol tooth-powder2 ,poudre dentifrice2 ,violet tooth-powder #bgi ,dr4 ,hufeland's tooth-powder2 ,white tooth-powder2 ,black tooth-powder2 ,poudre de corail2 ,camphor tooth-powder2 ,opiat liquide pour les dents #bhj ,poudre d',algrine #bha ,dr4 ,hufeland's tooth-soap #bhb ,tooth-soap2 ,saponaceous tooth-wash #bhc ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,hair ,,pomades1 ,,hair ,,oils1 ,,and ,,hair ,,tonics2 ,,hair ,,dyes ,,and ,,depilatories4 ,fats used for the preparation of pomades2 ,reputation of some fats as hair pomades #bhd ,pomades and their preparation2 ,purification of the fat #bhe ,substances used for coloring pomades2 ,fine ,french pomades 7flower-pomades72 ,maceration or extraction of the flowers #bhf ,receipts for some flower-pomades2 ,pommade la rose2 ,pommade l'acacia2 ,pommade la fleur d'orange2 ,pommade l'hliotrope #bhg ,pomades according to the ,german method and their preparation2 ,foundations for white pomades #bhh ,apple pomade2 ,bear's grease pomade2 ,quinine pomades #bhi ,quinine pomades 7imitation72 ,benzoin pomade2 ,densdorf pomade2 ,ice pomades2 ,family pomades #bij ,strawberry pomade2 ,fine hair pomade2 ,pomade for promoting the growth of the hair2 ,heliotrope pomades #bia ,jasmine pomade2 ,emperor pomade2 ,macassar pomade2 ,portugal pomade2 ,herb pomade2 ,lanolin pomade #bib ,oriental pomade2 ,paraffin ice pomade2 ,neroli pomade2 ,cheap pomade 7red1 yellow1 white72 ,mignonette pomade2 ,castor oil pomades2 ,princess pomade #bic ,fine pomade2 ,beef-marrow pomade2 ,rogers's pomade for producing a beard2 ,rose pomade2 ,fine rose pomade2 ,finest rose pomade2 ,salicylic pomade2 ,victoria pomade2 ,tonka pomade #bid ,fine vanilla pomade2 ,vanilla pomade2 ,violet pomade2 ,walnut pomade2 ,vaseline pomades #bie ,foundations for vaseline pomades2 ,bouquet vaseline pomade2 ,family vaseline pomade2 ,lily of the valley vaseline pomade2 ,neroli vaseline pomade #bif ,mignonette vaseline pomade2 ,portugal vaseline pomade2 ,rose vaseline pomades2 ,fine vaseline pomade 7yellow72 ,vaseline pomade 7red72 ,vaseline pomade 7white72 ,virginia vaseline pomade2 ,victoria vaseline pomade #big ,extra fine vaseline pomade2 ,stick pomades2 ,foundations for stick pomades2 ,manufacture of stick pomades #bih ,rose-wax pomade2 ,black-wax pomade2 ,blonde-wax pomade2 ,brown-wax pomade #bii ,cheap wax pomades2 ,resin pomades2 ,hair oils2 ,huiles antiques2 ,vaseline oil for hair oils2 ,treatment of oils with benzoin #cjj ,preparation of huiles antiques2 ,huile antique la rose2 ,huile antique au jasmin2 ,alpine herb oil2 ,flower hair oil2 ,peruvian bark hair oil #cja ,peru hair oil2 ,burdock root hair oils2 ,macassar hair oils2 ,neroli hair oil2 ,mignonette hair oils2 ,fine hair oil #cjb ,cheap hair oil 7red or yellow72 ,portugal hair oil2 ,jasmine hair oil2 ,vaseline hair oils2 ,vanilla hair oil2 ,ylang-ylang hair oil2 ,philocome hair oil #cjc ,sultana hair oil2 ,rose hair oil2 ,tonka hair oil2 ,violet hair oil2 ,victoria hair oil2 ,cheap hair oils2 ,bandolines and their preparation #cjd ,rose bandoline2 ,almond bandoline2 ,brilliantine #cje ,flower brilliantine ,no4 #a2 ,brilliantine ,no4 #b #cjf ,brilliantine ,no4 #c2 ,various formulas for brilliantine #cjg ,hair tonics2 ,eau ,athnienne2 ,florida water #cjh ,eau de ,cologne hair tonic2 ,eau de quinine #cji ,eau de quinine 7imitation72 ,honey water2 ,glycerin hair tonic2 ,eau lustral 7hair restorative72 ,tea hair tonic #caj ,locock's lotion for the hair2 ,shampoo lotion2 ,shampoo liquid #caa ,dandruff cures2 ,dandruff lotion2 ,bay rum #cab ,directions for preparing bay rum #cac ,hair dyes2 ,requirements of a good hair dye2 ,gradual darkening of the hair2 ,use of dilute acids for making the hair lighter #cad ,use of lead salts1 nitrate of silver1 and copper salts for dyeing the hair #cae ,iron salts for dying the hair2 ,rastikopetra1 a ,turkish hair dye2 ,use of potassium permanganate and pyrogallic acid for dyeing the hair #caf ,kohol1 an ,egyptian hair dye2 ,the use of henna as a hair dye2 ,process of coloring hair1 dyed red with henna1 black #cag ,use of the juice of green walnut shells for coloring the hair2 ,bleaching the hair with peroxide of hydrogen2 ,formul for hair dyes #cah ,single hair dyes2 ,teinture ,orientale 7,karsi72 ,teinture ,chinoise 7,kohol7 #cai ,potassium permanganate hair dye2 ,bismuth hair dye2 ,walnut hair dye2 ,pyrogallic hair stain #cbj ,double hair dyes2 ,for dyeing brown2 ,for dyeing black2 ,tannin hair dye #cba ,melanogne2 ,eau d',afrique2 ,krinochrom2 ,copper hair dye2 ,depilatories2 ,rhusma #cbb ,boettger's depilatory2 ,bartholow's depilatory #cbc ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,cosmetics4 ,skin cosmetics2 ,toilet vinegars2 ,vinaigre de ,bully2 ,vinaigre de toilette la rose2 ,vinaigre de toilette la violette #cbd ,vinaigre de toilette hliotrope2 ,vinaigre de toilette orange2 ,vinaigre de toilette2 ,aromatic vinegar2 ,english aromatic vinegar #cbe ,toilet vinegar2 ,washes2 ,virginal milk 7,lait virginal72 ,rose milk 7,lait de rose7 #cbf ,almond milk 7,lait d'amandes amres7 #cbg ,lily milk 7,lait de lys72 ,perfumed glycerin with rose odor2 ,perfumed glycerin with fruit odor2 ,perfumed meals and pastes2 ,farin de noisette 7nut meal7 #cbh ,farin d'amandes amres 7almond meal72 ,pate d'amandes au miel 7honey almond paste72 ,poudre de riz la rose #cbi ,poudre de riz hliotrope2 ,poudre de riz orange2 ,poudre de riz muguet #ccj ,poudre de riz ixora2 ,poudre de riz bouquet2 ,cold creams and lip salves2 ,cold cream2 ,vaseline cold cream #cca ,glycerin cream2 ,crme de concombre2 ,glycerin gele2 ,glycerin jelly #ccb ,cream of roses2 ,boroglycerin cream2 ,recamier cream2 ,preparations for chapped hands #ccc ,wash for the hands2 ,nail powder2 ,lip-salves #ccd ,paints2 ,pulverulent paints 7powders72 ,blanc fard or ,blanc franais #cce ,mixtures for powders2 ,coloring substances for powders2 ,powder for coloring intensely red2 ,solid paints2 ,ordinary red paint 7rouge7 #ccf ,fine red paint 7rouge72 ,white paint2 ,preparation of paints #ccg ,red stick-paint 7stick rouge72 ,moulding the rouge into sticks #cci ,white stick-paint2 ,rouge en feuilles2 ,liquid paints2 ,liquid rouge #cdj ,white liquid paint2 ,fat paints #cda ,crme de ,lys2 ,crme de rose #cdb ,,index #cdc ,a ,,practical ,,treatise ,,on ,,the ,,manufacture ,,of ,,perfumery4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,historical ,,notice ,,of ,,perfumery4 ,nature has implanted in man the instinct of finding the odor accompanying decay and putrefaction insufferable1 of fleeing from it1 and of going in quest of fragrant odors4 ,hence1 in ancient times1 perfume substances were highly esteemed1 and an offering of them was considered a sign of the most profound reverence and homage4 ,the early nations of the ,orient especially used perfume substances in such profusion that the consumption of them by the finest lady of to-day must be called a comparatively moderate one4 ,this may1 however1 be readily explained1 for1 on the one hand1 the majority of plants which produce the most agreeable perfumes in larger quantity are indigenous to the ,orient2 and1 on the other1 the excessive exhalations from the human body1 caused by the hot climate1 forced the people to search for means to remove1 or at least to cover1 the disagreeable odor arising therefrom4 ,since fragrant odors were agreeable to human beings1 it was believed that they must be welcome also to the gods1 and1 to honor them1 perfume substances were burned upon the altars4 ,besides1 as an offering to the gods1 perfume substances were extensively used by many nations1 especially by the ,egyptians1 for embalming the dead1 the process employed by the latter having been transmitted to us by the ancient authors ,herodotus and ,diodorus4 ,furthermore1 a desire for ornamentation and to give to the face and body as pleasing an appearance as possible1 is common to all mankind4 ,to be sure1 the ideas of what constitutes beauty in this respect have varied at different times and among the various nations4 ,but1 independent of the savage races1 who consider painting and tattooing the body and face an embellishment1 and taking into consideration only the earliest civilized nations1 it is astonishing how many arts of the toilet have been preserved from the most ancient historical times up to the present4 ,in the most ancient historical times1 people perfumed and painted1 frizzed1 curled1 and dyed the hair as at present1 and1 in fact1 the same cosmetics1 only slightly augmented1 which were in use hundreds1 nay1 thousands1 of years ago are still employed to-day4#a ,it is especially woman1 who everywhere exercises the arts of the toilet1 while1 with the exception of perfumes and agents for the hair1 man is but seldom referred to as making use of cosmetics4 ,the young girls of ancient ,egypt used red and white paints1 colored their pale lips1 and anointed their hair with sweet-scented oils2 they dyed their eyelashes and eyelids black to impart a brighter lustre to the glance of the eye1 and the mother of the wife of the first king of ,egypt is said to have already composed a receipt for a hair-dye4 #a ,paschkis1 ,kosmetik fr ,aerzte4 ,wien1 #ahij4 ,from the ,egyptians1 the practices of the toilet1 like many other things1 were transmitted to the ,jews4 ,in ,egypt1 the ,hebrew woman had known the sweet-scented flower of the henna bush1 and1 finding it also in ,judea1 it served her as a perfume4 ,in the ,bible the henna flower is called kopher1 in ,greek kypros1 and the ,cyprian salve1 mentioned by ,pliny1 was prepared by boiling henna flowers in oil and then expressing them4 ,painting the face was also practised by the ,hebrew women1 reference being made to it in ,,ii4 ,kings ix4 #cj1 and ,jeremiah v4 #cj1 while painting of the eyes is mentioned in ,ezekiel xxiii4 #dj4 ,the number of perfume substances known to the ancient ,hebrews was but a limited one1 they consisting1 besides the above-mentioned henna flower1 chiefly of a few gum-resins1 especially bdellium1 olibanum and myrrh4 ,in ancient times olibanum was1 without doubt1 the most important perfume-substance4 ,it was introduced into commerce by the ,phoenicians1 and1 like many other substances1 it received from them its name1 which was adopted by other nations4 ,thus1 the ,hebrews called the tree lebonah1 the ,arabs1 lubah1 while the ,greeks named it1 and the resin derived from it1 the celebrated frankincense of the ancients1 1 ,latin1 olibanum4 ,regarding the mode of gaining the olibanum1 some curious ideas prevailed in ancient times4 ,thus1 ,herodotus writes3 ,arabia is the only country in which olibanum grows1 as well as myrrh1 cassia1 cinnamon and lederum4 ,with the exception of myrrh1 the ,arabs encounter many difficulties in procuring these products4 ,olibanum they obtain by burning styrax1 for every olibanum tree is guarded by a number of small-sized winged serpents of a variegated appearance1 which can be driven away by nothing but styrax vapors4 ,according to ,pliny1 who gives a very full account of olibanum1 ,arabia felix received its by-name from the abundance of olibanum and myrrh found there4 ,he states that olibanum grows in no other country besides ,arabia1 but it is not found in every part of it4 ,about in the centre1 upon a high mountain1 he continues1 is the country of the ,atramites1 a province of the ,sabeans1 from which the olibanum region is distant about eight days' journey4 ,it is called ,saba and is everywhere rendered inaccessible by mountains1 a narrow defile1 through which the export is carried on1 leading into an adjoining province inhabited by the ,mineans4 ,in ,saba itself were not more than #cjj families1 called the saints1 who claimed the cultivation of olibanum as a right of heritage4 ,when making the incisions in the trees1 and while gathering the olibanum1 the men were prohibited from having intercourse with women and from attending funerals4 ,notwithstanding the fact that the ,romans carried on war in ,arabia1 none of them had ever seen an olibanum tree4 ,when there was less chance of selling the olibanum1 it was gathered but once in the year1 but since the increase in the demand1 it was gathered twice1 first in the fall and again in the spring1 the incisions in the trees having been made during the winter4 ,the collected olibanum was brought upon camels to ,sabota1 where one gate was open for its reception2 to turn from the road was prohibited under penalty of death4 ,the priests took one-tenth by measure for the god ,sabin1 sales not being allowed until their claim was satisfied4 ,the olibanum could be exported only through the territory of the ,gebanites1 whose ,king also levied tribute4 ,pliny further states that the ,arabs did not steal one from another1 but for fear of loss those employed in the stores of ,alexandria were forced to go naked with the exception of a clout which was sealed4 ,a mask and a thick net were thrown over the head4 ,to us the practice of anointing the entire body1 customary among the ancients1 appears very singular4 ,old ,egyptian sculptures represent the guests being anointed at the meal4 ,among the ,jews we find a holy oil with which ,aaron and his sons were anointed to consecrate them to the priesthood1 ,moses prescribing for this holy anointing oil1 myrrh1 cinnamon1 calamus1 and oil from the olive tree4 ,other persons were prohibited from imitating or using this holy oil4 ,the anointing of kings was introduced later on4 ,though it was prohibited to imitate and use the holy oil1 this prohibition did not refer to anointing with oil in general4 ,that the ,greeks also set a high value upon anointing with oil is plainly seen from ,homer4 ,when ,telemachus visited ,nestor1 ,polycaste1 ,nestor's youngest daughter1 bathed him and anointed him with oil1 and when he was the guest of ,menelaus1 the maids of the latter performed the same service for him1 while for ,ulysses returning as a beggar1 the aged ,euryclea prepared a foot-bath and anointed him4 ,by the addition of fragrant substances to the oil1 the sweet-scented ointment1 myron1 originated4 ,while the anointing with simple oil evidently served as a hygienic measure after the bath1 and especially for men in the gymnasium1 and before a combat1 with the ,greeks1 ointments were an article of luxury4 ,in ,socrates' time the use of sweet-scented ointments had reached such an extent1 that ,xenophon caused him to speak against it1 but1 as is the case with all such lectures against fashion1 without the slightest success4 ,in ,athens the luxury was carried so far that the bacchanalians anointed each part of their body with a special ointment4 ,the oil extracted from the palm was thought best adapted to the cheeks and the breasts2 the arms were refreshed with balsam-mint2 sweet marjoram supplied an oil for the hair and eyebrows2 and wild thyme for the knee and neck4 ,although to us it would be repugnant to have the entire body anointed1 in ,athens it was considered beautiful to be glossy with ointments4 ,it is said of ,demetrius ,phalereus1 that in order to appear more captivating1 he dyed his hair yellow1 and anointed the face and the rest of his body4 ,from the ,asiatics and ,greeks the ,romans also learned the use of ointments4 ,pliny cannot say at what time they were introduced in ,rome1 but states that after the conquest of ,asia and the defeat of the ,king1 ,antiochus1 in the year #efe1 after the building of ,rome1 the censors issued an edict prohibiting the sale of foreign ointments4 ,however1 this edict was of no use1 and the practice spread more and more1 ,pliny speaking very bitterly about it4 ,regarding this extravagance in ointments1 ,plutarch says3 ,frankincense1 cinnamon1 spikenard1 and ,arabian calamus are mixed together with the most careful art and sold for large sums4 ,it is an effeminate pleasure and has spoiled not only the women but also the men1 who will not sleep even with their own wives if they do not smell of ointments and powders4 ,plutarch further mentions an incident which must have created a sensation even in luxurious ,rome1 as otherwise it would scarcely have been chronicled for the benefit of posterity4 ,nero one day anointed himself with costly ointments and scattered some of them over ,otho4 ,the next day ,otho gave ,nero a banquet1 and laid in all directions gold and silver tubes1 which poured forth expensive ointments like water1 thoroughly saturating the guests4 ,directions for preparing ointments are contained in ,theophrastus's work ,on ,perfumes1 in ,dioscorides's ,medica materia1 and ,pliny's ,historia naturalis4 ,dioscorides's receipts are the fullest4 ,according to ,pliny1 a distinction was made between the juice and the body1 the latter consisting of the fat oils and the former of the sweet-scented substances4 ,in preparing the ointments1 the oil together with the perfuming substances were heated in the water-bath4 ,for instance1 rose ointment was1 according to ,dioscorides1 prepared by mixing #e lbs4 of bruised ,andropogon ,schnanthus with a little water1 then adding #bj lbs4 of oil and heating4 ,after heating the oil was filtered off1 and the petals of one thousand roses were thrown into the oil1 the hands with which the rose leaves were pressed into the oil being previously coated with honey4 ,when the whole had stood for one night1 the oil was strained off and when all impurities had settled1 it was brought into another vessel and fresh rose leaves introduced1 the operation being several times repeated4 ,however1 according to the opinion of the ancient ointment makers1 no more odor was absorbed by the oil after the seventh introduction of rose leaves4 ,to fix the odor1 resins or gums were added to the ointments4 ,a process of distilling volatile oils was also known1 the odoriferous matter being caught by spreading wool over the heated perfume-substances4 ,the wool was afterwards subjected to pressure4 ,this process1 of course1 involved great loss and was available only for substances containing much volatile oil4 ,dioscorides also gives directions for making animal fats suitable for the reception of perfumes4 ,beef-tallow1 deer-fat1 or the marrow of animals was freed from all membranes1 melted together with a little salt in an entirely new vessel1 and then poured into clean water1 where it was washed by rubbing with the hands1 the water being frequently renewed4 ,then it was boiled with equal parts of sweet-scented wine1 and after taking it from the fire it was allowed to stand over night4 ,the next day the cold fat was again boiled in a new vessel1 with sweet-scented wine1 this operation being repeated until the fat had lost every trace of disagreeable odor1 when it was brought in contact with the perfumes4 ,the consumption of perfume-substances by the ancient ,romans must have been enormous4 ,the trade of the ointment makers 7ungentarii7 was so extensive that the large street ,seplasia in old ,capua was entirely taken up by it1 and the business must have paid well since the prices realized were very high4 ,however1 in ancient times the business cannot have been very agreeable1 at least not in ,greece1 as shown by a passage in ,plutarch's ,life of ,pericles3 ,we take pleasure in ointments and purple1 but consider the dyers and ointment makers bondsmen and mechanics4 ,red and white paints1 in the form of powder as well as of paste1 were extensively used by the ,roman ladies4 ,chalk and white lead served for white paint1 and minium and carmine for red4 ,lovers preferred white paints1 a pale color being more becoming to them3-- ,palleat omnis amans2 hic est color aptus amanti4--7,ovid47 ,for black paints for the eyebrows roasted ant eggs or soot were used4 ,the ,roman ladies paid as much attention to their natural1 and also false1 hair as the fair ones of to-day4 ,they curled their hair with heated iron instruments1 and perfumed them with fragrant oil4 ,if from age1 sorrow1 or other reasons1 the hair was no longer black1 it was dyed1 and it seems that a considerable number of hair-dyes were known in ,rome1 amongst them some which are still employed to-day1 such as green nutshells and acetate of lead4 ,after the ,romans had seen the blonde ,german maidens1 blonde and red hair became the fashion4 ,to dye the hair blonde sharp alkaline soaps were chiefly used4 ,however1 this or some other hair-dye seems to have been very injurious1 as it caused the hair to come out4 ,the satirists ridiculed this as well as the wigs1 which were worn by men and women to hide baldness1 or on account of the color which could not be attained by dyes4 ,depilatories were also known to the ,romans1 the agents employed being called psilothrum and dropax4 ,they were of vegetable origin1 but it is not exactly known from which plants they were derived4 ,for cleaning the teeth the ,roman ladies used a dentifrice which does not seem very inviting to us4 ,it consisted of a urine imported from ,spain 7dens hiberna defricatus urina74 ,to perfume the breath or to hide its bad odor1 mouth-washes1 perfumed with saffron1 roses1 etc41 were used1 or myrrh1 mastic from ,chios or perfumed pastilles were chewed4 ,we know but little regarding the use of perfumeries and cosmetics in the ,middle ,ages4 ,in the wars during the migrations of the nations1 but little thought was very likely given to them1 but as soon as the nations became again settled and made sufficient progress in culture1 the taste for perfumes and other pleasures of life no doubt returned4 ,our knowledge in this respect is limited to what is contained in the works of physicians of the first centuries4 ,later on we find receipts for cosmetics in the writings of ,arabian physicians1 such as ,rhazes 7end of the #ith to the commencement of the #ajth century71 ,avicenna 7end of the #ajth to the commencement of the #aath century71 and ,mesu 7#aath century74 ,to the #aath century also belong the works of the celebrated ,trotula1 ,de mulierum passionibus1 ,practica ,trotulae mulieris ,salernitanae de curis mulierum1 and ,trotula in utilitatem mulierum1 all of which contain receipts for cosmetics4 ,in the #adth century the most celebrated surgeon of the ,middle ,ages1 ,guy de ,chanlios1 did not consider it beneath his dignity to devote a section of his ,grande ,chirurgie to cosmetics4 ,however1 it was only in the #afth century that perfumes and cosmetics came again into prominent notice in ,italy1 which at that time was the country of luxury and art4 ,giovanni ,marinello1#b a physician1 in #aefb wrote a work on ,cosmetics for ,ladies1 which he dedicated to the ladies ,victoria and ,isabella ,palavicini4 ,in the preface the author expresses the opinion that it is only right and pleasing to ,god to place the gifts bestowed by him in a proper light and to heighten them4 ,he then proceeds to give perfumes for various purposes1 aromatic baths to keep the skin young and fresh1 means for increasing the stoutness of the entire body and of separate limbs1 and others for reducing them4 ,he further recommends certain remedies for making large eyes small1 and small ones large4 ,the chapter on the hair is very fully treated4 ,to prevent the hair from coming out1 rubbing with oil1 and then washing with sorrel and myrobalan is recommended4 ,for promoting the growth of the hair1 the use of dried frogs1 lizards1 etc41 rubbed to a powder1 is prescribed4 ,means for making the hair long and soft and curly are also given1 and others recommended for eyebrows and eyelashes4 ,as depilatories lime and orpiment are prescribed4 ,paints are also classed among general cosmetics4 ,their use became at this time more and more fashionable1 and not only the face1 but also the breast and neck were painted4 #b ,gli ornamenti delle donne1 tratti dalle seriture d'una ,reina greca1 par ,m4 ,giovanni ,marinello in ,venetia4 ,catherine of ,medici and ,margaret of ,valois introduced these arts of the toilet into ,france4 ,that country soon became the leader in this respect1 and for many years the greatest luxury in perfumes and cosmetics prevailed there4 ,the golden age for these articles lasted from the commencement of the seventeenth to the middle of the eighteenth century1 during which time the mouche or beauty patch also flourished4 ,there were at that time hundreds of pastes1 essences1 cosmetics1 a white balsam1 a water to make the face red1 another to make a coarse complexion delicate1 one to preserve the fine complexion of lean persons and again one to make the face like that of a twenty-year old girl1 an ,eau pour nourir et laver les teints corrods and ,eau de chair admirable pour teints jaunes et bilieux1 etc4 ,then there were ,mouchoirs de ,venus1 further bands impregnated with wax to cleanse and smooth the forehead2 gold leaf was even heated in a lemon over a fire in order to obtain a means which should impart to the face a supernatural brightness4 ,for the hair1 teeth and nails there were innumerable receipts1 ointments1 etc4 ,however1 of special importance were the paints1 chemical white1 blue for the veins1 but1 chief of all1 the red or rouge1 mineral1 vegetable1 or cochineal4 ,the application of rouge was at that time no small affair1 it was not only to be rouged1 but the rouge had also to express something--,le grand point est d'avoir un rouge qui dise quelque chose4 ,the rouge had to characterize its wearer2 a lady of rank did not wear the rouge like a lady of the court1 and the rouge of the wife of the bourgeois was not like either of them nor like that of the courtesan4 ,at court a more intense rouge was worn1 the intensity of which was still increased on the day of presentation1 it being then ,rouge d',espagne and ,rouge de ,portugal en tasse4 ,it may seem incredible1 but for eight days a violet paint was used and then for a change ,rouge de ,serkis4 ,ladies1 when retiring for the night applied a light rouge 7un demi rouge71 and even small girls wore rouge1 such being the decree of fashion4 ,the ladies dyed their eyebrows and eyelashes1 and powdered their hair1 both natural and false1 for1 about #agej1 they commenced wearing wigs and chignons4 ,powdering was done partially for the purpose of dying the hair after dressing1 and partially for decoration2 white1 gray1 red and fiery red powders were in vogue4 ,to that time fashion also ordained an ever-varying routine in the employment of perfumes2 so that the royal apartments were one day fragrant with the scent of the tuberose and the next with that of amber and cloves2 and so on consecutively1 each succeeding day bringing a change of the reigning odor4 ,in that luxurious age the personal use of perfumes was not confined to the fair sex1 but the effeminate gallants of the day gloried in perfuming themselves with the favorite scents of their mistresses or of prominent belles2 so that the allegiance was recognized1 not as in more chivalrous times by the knight wearing the colors of the fair one who had enslaved him1 but by his smelling of the particular odor which she had consecrated to herself4 ,philip ,augustus1 in #aaij1 granted a charter to the ,french perfumers1 who had formed a guild4 ,this charter was1 in #aceg1 confirmed by ,john1 and in #aehb by ,henry ,,iii41 and remained in force until #afcf4 ,the importance of the craft in ,france is shown by the fact that under ,colbert the perfumers or parfumeurs-gantiers1 as they were called1 were granted patents which were registered in ,parliament4 ,in the seventeenth century ,montpellier was the chief seat of the ,french perfumery industry2 to-day it is ,paris1 and over fifty millions of francs' worth of perfumery are annually sold there4 ,the parfumeurs-gantiers had the privilege of selling gloves of all possible kinds of material1 as well as the leather required for them2 they had the further privilege of perfuming gloves and selling all kinds of perfumes4 ,perfumed leather for gloves1 purses1 etc41 was at that time imported from ,spain4 ,this leather was very expensive and fashionable1 but on account of its penetrating odor its use for gloves was finally abandoned4 ,in ,england perfumes were not in general use before the reign of ,queen ,elizabeth1 when they soon became fashionable4 ,elizabeth had an especially finely developed sense of smell and nothing was more repugnant to her than a disagreeable odor4 ,she had a cloak of perfumed ,spanish leather1 and even her shoes were perfumed4 ,perfumed gloves were also fashionable4 ,the city soon imitated the practices of the court1 and that an extravagant use was made of perfumeries and cosmetics is plainly seen from the works of the authors of that time1 as well as from an act of ,parliament passed in #aggj4 ,by the latter it is ordained that any woman1 no matter of what age or rank1 be she maid or widow1 who deceives a man and inveigles him into matrimony by the use of perfumeries1 false hair1 ,crpons d',espagne 7a paint71 corsets1 hooped petticoats1 shoes with high heels1 and false hips1 shall suffer the penalty of the law for procuring1 and the marriage shall be null and void4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,the ,,perfume-,,materials ,,for ,,the ,,manufacture ,,of ,,perfumery4 ,most of the perfume-materials employed by the perfumer are derived from the vegetable kingdom2 a few are of animal origin1 whilst some are artificially prepared4 ,of animal substances only four are used1 namely3 musk1 castor or castoreum1 civet1 and ambergris2 the separation of their characteristic odoriferous substances has1 however1 not yet been accomplished4 ,the odor of plants is generally due to volatile substances called volatile or essential oils4 ,their occurrence is not limited to special parts1 they being found in the flower1 seed1 wood1 bast1 bark1 leaves1 and root4 ,however1 in every plant the oil occurs chiefly in certain organs1 and it even happens that the oil differs with the part of the plant whence it is derived4 ,the odors exist already formed in the living plant1 or else are generated1 as in the instance of bitter almonds1 by some reaction between the elements which takes place during fermentation or distillation4 ,from the strength of the odor of a plant no conclusion can be drawn as to the quantity of volatile oil present4 ,if this were the case1 the hyacinth1 for instance1 would contain more oil than the coniferae1 whilst in fact it contains so little that it can be separated only with the greatest difficulty4 ,the odor does not depend on the quantity1 but on the quality of the oil2 a plant may diffuse but little odor and still contain much volatile oil4 ,of the various families of plants1 the labiatae1 umbelliferae1 and coniferae are richest in volatile oils4 ,in every climate plants diffuse odor1 those growing in tropical latitudes being more prolific in this respect than the plants of colder regions1 which1 however1 yield the most delicate perfume4 ,although the ,east ,indies1 ,ceylon1 ,peru1 and ,mexico afford some of the choicest perfumes1 ,central ,europe is the actual flower garden of the perfumer1 ,grasse1 ,cannes1 and ,nice being the principal places for the production of perfume-materials4 ,thanks to the geographical position of these places1 the cultivator1 within a comparatively narrow space1 has at his disposal various climates suitable for the most perfect development of the plants4 ,the ,acacia ,farnesiana grows on the seashore1 without having to fear frost1 which in one night might destroy the entire crop1 while at the foot of the ,alps1 on ,mount ,esteral1 the violet diffuses a much sweeter odor than in the hotter regions1 where the olive and the tuberose reach perfect bloom4 ,england asserts its superiority in oils of lavender and peppermint4 ,the volatile oils obtained from plants cultivated in ,mitcham and ,hitchin command a considerably higher price than those from other localities1 this preference being justified only by the delicacy of their perfume4 ,cannes is best suited for roses1 acacias1 jasmine1 and neroli1 while in ,nimes1 thyme1 rosemary1 and lavender are chiefly cultivated4 ,nice is celebrated for its violets1 while ,sicily furnishes the lemon and orange1 and ,italy the iris and bergamotte4 ,the odors exhaled by our own domestic plants have been but little studied1 but the southern as well as many northern districts of the ,united ,states are well adapted for the cultivation of quite a number of species of plants which might be made to yield highly valuable articles of commerce4 ,among the plants which might furnish oils for the perfumer's use are1 for instance1 the wall flower1 the ,lilly1 lilac and mignonette4 ,,volatile ,,oils4--,the volatile oils are either fluid 7actual volatile oils7 or solid 7varieties of camphor7 or solutions of solid combinations in fluid4 ,the latter1 on exposure to low temperatures1 separate into two portions1 one solid1 called stearoptene1 and the other liquid1 called eloptene4 ,the boiling point of the volatile oils is considerably higher than that of water1 but when heated with water they pass over with the vapors4 ,upon paper1 fluid volatile oils produce grease spots1 which differ1 however1 from those caused by fat oils in that they gradually disappear at an ordinary temperature1 and rapidly by gentle heating4 ,most volatile oils are insoluble1 or only with difficulty and sparingly soluble1 in water1 but they impart to the latter their odor and taste4 ,they are readily soluble in alcohol1 ether1 chloroform1 bisulphide of carbon and petroleum-ether1 and miscible in every proportion with fats and fat oils4 ,by their solubility in alcohol they differ from most fat oils4 ,when freshly prepared many volatile oils are colorless1 but soon turn yellow2 some1 however1 show a distinct color even when fresh4 ,they ignite with greater ease than fat oils and burn with a fierce smoky flame depositing a large amount of carbon4 ,they exhibit a great tendency to absorb oxygen from the air and to gum1 the influence of light promoting the process4 ,in specific gravity they range from about #j4ge to #a4ag1 most of them being specifically lighter than water4 ,most bodies1 under otherwise equal conditions1 show always exactly the same specific gravity1 the variations being so slight that they may be justly ascribed to errors of observation4 ,however1 one and the same volatile oil frequently shows such variations in specific gravity1 that we are forced to ascribe this phenomenon to alterations in the constitution of the oil itself4 ,for the exact determination of the specific gravity of a volatile oil1 it should1 therefore1 be subjected to examination immediately after its preparation from the plant or vegetable substance1 which should be as fresh as possible4 ,the influence of light upon volatile oils is best shown by the following interesting experiment3 ,if certain volatile oils are distilled in a vacuum or over burnt lime in a current of carbonic acid1 it is no longer possible to distinguish1 for instance1 oil of lemon from oil of turpentine2 however1 by again exposing the oils to the air1 they reacquire their characteristic odor4 ,according to their elementary composition the volatile oils may be divided into three principal divisions3-- #a4 ,volatile oils free from oxygen1 terpene 7camphene71 or hydrocarbons4 #b4 ,oxygenated volatile oils4 #c4 ,volatile oils containing sulphur4 ,on account of the facility with which most of the volatile oils absorb oxygen1 oils originally free from oxygen are frequently a mixture of hydrocarbons and combinations containing oxygen4 ,the volatile oils varying so much in their physical as well as their chemical properties1 a suitable classification of them has thus far been unsuccessful4 ,most of the volatile oils contain a liquid hydrocarbon1 terpene1 which is characterized neither by special taste nor odor1 nor is the peculiarity of a volatile oil dependent on it4 ,in the direct distillation of a volatile oil1 for instance1 lemon oil1 this hydrocarbon 7citrene71 passes first over and can1 therefore1 be readily separated from the constituents on which depend the peculiarity of lemon oil1 and which distil over at a higher temperature4 ,the specific character of an oil is generally due to the portion of the oil containing oxygen4 ,hence1 manufacturers have endeavored to free several of the volatile oils1 used for perfumery and the preparation of food1 from the worthless terpene and at the same time to obtain them in a concentrated form4 ,carvol is1 for instance1 caraway oil freed from carvene 7terpene74 ,these concentrated oils are not only purer and more agreeable in odor and taste and more readily soluble in dilute alcohol1 but1 being more concentrated1 an equal volume of them goes much further than ordinary volatile oil4 ,in the price lists these oils are designated as extra strong1 patented1 concentrated1 highly concentrated oils or essences4 ,all the terpenes occurring in the various oils are combinations having the formula ,c#aj;,h#af1 or polymeric with it1 ,c#ae;,h#bd1 ,c#bj;,h#cb1 etc4 ,these terpenes exhibiting certain deviations in regard to their properties1 odor1 specific gravity1 and boiling points1 nearly as many terpenes as there are volatile oils have been distinguished4 ,it is1 however1 very likely that these deviations may be traced back to fortuitous circumstances1 for example1 to the admixture of foreign substances occurring together with the terpenes1 and that1 by a more accurate examination1 the number of terpenes entitled to be considered pure chemical combinations will be considerably reduced4 ,by ,wallach's labors1 the identity of several terpenes formerly considered distinct1 has already been established1 whilst many others have been found to possess properties in common4 ,according to the nature and quantity of the odoriferous substances contained in the plants1 various methods1 namely1 expression1 distillation1 extraction1 maceration1 and absorption1 are employed for the purpose of obtaining them4 ,expression4--,this is only practicable when the substances are especially rich in oil and of sufficient softness1 as in the case with the peel of the orange1 citron1 lemon1 etc4 ,in such instances the material is simply placed in a linen cloth and subjected to a strong pressure until it ceases to yield oil4 ,the press may be of any size according to the quantity to be expressed4 ,for small quantities it generally consists of an iron vessel1 having a small opening at the bottom so that the oil may flow out4 ,the material is placed upon a perforated bottom inside of the vessel and covered with a well-fitting iron plate1 that can be pressed down by means of a screw4 ,though the material is fairly exhausted by such a press1 for large operations it is advisable to make use of a hydraulic press1 which is constructed and managed in exactly the same manner as those used for the expression of fixed oils4 ,by expression a turbid milky fluid is obtained1 which consists of the volatile oil and aqueous substances4 ,the latter are a solution of various extractive substances and salts in water4 ,this fluid1 as it runs from the press1 is received in tall1 narrow1 glass vessels and brought into a cool place for clarification4 ,this frequently requires several days1 three distinct layers being generally distinguished4 ,on the bottom is a mucous layer consisting of cell substances carried along by the liquid bodies4 ,over this is a clear fluid consisting of a solution of extractive substances1 vegetable albumen1 and salts1 and upon this floats the volatile oil1 being specifically the lightest body1 which1 by its greater refractive power1 can be clearly distinguished from the aqueous fluid4 ,the oil is separated by bringing all that has been expressed into a bottle provided near the bottom with a lateral neck closed by a cock4 ,after separating the oil from the aqueous fluid1 the latter is allowed to escape by opening the cock4 ,the oil obtained in this manner is still impure1 and requires further treatment to remove small vegetable fibres1 invisible to the naked eye1 which float in them1 and cause them to be somewhat opaque and slightly opalescent4 ,by their subsequent decomposition they would also give the oil a disagreeable odor4 ,there are two methods of obtaining the oil entirely clear1 viz41 filtration and distillation4 ,filtration is the cheaper process1 but requires special precautions to exclude the air as much as possible to prevent the oil from undergoing injurious changes4 ,by arranging the filtering apparatus so that the oil always comes in contact with only the same quantity of air1 the injurious action of the oxygen is reduced to a minimum4 ,it is self-evident that the apparatus should not be placed in the sun1 but in a semi-dark1 cool place4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #a4 ,a filter of simple construction1 and performing excellent service1 is shown in ,fig4 #a4 ,it consists of a large glass bottle1 ,f1 hermetically closed by a doubly-perforated cork4 ,the neck of the glass funnel ,t1 the upper rim of which is ground smooth1 is placed in one of the holes1 and a glass tube1 r1 bent at a right angle1 is fitted into the second hole4 ,a thick wooden lid1 with a rubber ring on the lower side1 is placed upon the funnel1 thus closing it air-tight4 ,in the centre of the lid is fitted a glass tube1 r1 also bent at a right angle1 which is connected with the tube r1 by a rubber hose1 k4 ,after the funnel has been provided with filtering paper and the oil to be filtered1 the lid is placed upon it1 and must not be removed1 except for the purpose of pouring more oil into the funnel4 ,the air in the bottle ,f is displaced by the oil dropping into it1 and escapes through r1 k and r into the funnel1 and thus only the air in the bottle and funnel can act upon the oil4 ,the other method for the complete purification of expressed oil is by rectification or distillation with water4 ,for this purpose the oil1 together with a little water1 is brought into one of the stills described later on1 and the oil distilled over4 ,it is sometimes difficult to obtain the last portion of the oil1 especially with a still heated by direct fire1 and it is therefore preferable to combine it with a fresh quantity of the same oil to be distilled4 ,distillation4--,there are at present two methods in use4 ,the one is founded upon the direct action of the heat1 the other upon the use of steam4 ,the first was formerly in general practice1 and is still largely employed in ,france and ,england1 and to a limited extent in this country4 ,it is1 however1 very deficient in many respects4 ,as the stills must necessarily be of small capacity1 only small quantities can be distilled at one time1 and the oils very rarely possess the peculiar odor due to them1 and sometimes the odor is even altered4 ,in mixing too little water with the materials to be extracted1 there is danger that empyreumatic oils will be formed2 a large quantity of water1 on the other hand1 is of disadvantage1 in so far as in case the perfume-materials contain little oil1 only a perfumed water1 but no oil1 will be obtained4 ,in order to avoid these inconveniences1 or1 at least1 to do away with some of them1 another plan was devised4 ,the materials to be distilled were spread upon sieves1 which were suspended in the upper part of a still1 so that they might be penetrated from below4 ,it is true no scorching is possible in this case1 as was in the other process when the heating was continued after all the water had evaporated1 and the oil retains its proper color1 but by this method only small quantities can be extracted at a time4 ,the still generally used for distillation with direct heat resembles so much an ordinary whiskey still as to need no further description here4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #b4 ,for the accurate determination of the percentage of volatile oil a vegetable substance will yield1 or to obtain the oil from very costly raw materials1 the small glass apparatus1 ,fig4 #b1 is used4 ,the flask ,a1 with a capacity of up to #e or #f quarts1 serves for a still4 ,in the tube t1 shaped like the neck of a bottle1 is inserted by means of a cork1 a funnel tube1 l1 reaching to the bottom of the flask4 ,the neck of the flask passes into the cooling pipe1 which lies in a so-called ,liebig cooler4 ,this consists of a wide-glass tube1 ,c1 into the lower end of which1 at h1 flows cold water from the reservoir ,d1 displacing the heated water at g4 ,the lower end of the cooling pipe is connected with the neck-shaped tube v1 under which stands the vessel for the reception of the distillate4 ,to prevent the cracking of the flask1 which might readily happen with the use of direct heat1 it is placed in a vessel filled with sand or water4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #c4 ,a very good small apparatus for the distillation of volatile oil is shown in ,fig4 #c4 ,it is known as a siphon still4 ,it consists of a double-walled boiler1 surmounted by a still-head1 which is provided with a mechanism for keeping the contents of the boiler in motion4 ,this stirring apparatus consists of a perpendicular shaft1 bearing a frame work of iron1 curved so as to correspond to the interior shape of the still1 and on the outside carrying a chain which scrapes over the inner surface of the still while the stirrer is being turned4 ,this may be done either by hand or by steam4 ,the still having been charged with the material to be extracted1 is filled up with water to within a few inches of the top of the body of the still1 and the latter is heated by admitting steam4 ,the vapors arising are conducted to a cooler situated at a higher level than the still itself1 and the condensed liquid is collected in a receiver1 where the oil and water separate4 ,this receiver is provided with two faucets1 one near the top and the other near the bottom4 ,if the oil passing over is heavier than water1 the excess of the latter is removed by the upper faucet2 if the oil swims on the water1 the lower faucet is regulated so as to allow the water to escape in about the same ratio as it enters the receiver4 ,in either case the condensed water is made to run back into the still1 and the loss of oil is1 therefore1 greatly reduced4 ,sometimes a single-walled still is used1 and distillation carried on with direct steam4 ,this method is1 however1 not suitable where the presence of water is necessary1 for instance1 in the production of oil of bitter almonds4 ,a simple way of converting an ordinary still into use with steam is shown in ,fig4 #d4 ,for the helmet of the still ,a is substituted a cylindrical vessel1 ,b1 with an opening in the bottom4 ,the materials to be distilled are brought into ,b1 and rest upon a wire bottom to prevent particles from falling into ,a4 ,from the upper portion of ,b a pipe1 ,r1 leads to the condenser4 ,as may be seen from the illustration1 the still ,a serves only for the generation of steam4 ,the latter1 in passing through ,b1 heats the contents and absorbs the liberated oil1 the combined vapors passing into the condenser4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #d4 ,this simple modification of the ordinary still affords some advantage1 the principal being the avoidance of the condensation of a large quantity of water4 ,this in itself would not amount to much1 but it has to be taken into consideration that1 though volatile oils are only very sparingly soluble in water1 they are nevertheless soluble in it to such a degree as to impart to it their characteristic odor and taste4 ,such aromatized water can be utilized in the manufacture of liqueurs and perfumery1 but to the manufacturer who restricts himself to the production of volatile oils alone1 this represents a loss1 and it is therefore necessary for him to condense as little water as possible4 ,and this object can only be attained by the use of direct steam4 ,a simple apparatus for the purpose is shown in ,fig4 #e4 ,the still b1 provided with a helmet1 rests free upon a suitable support4 ,to prevent cooling1 it is surrounded with a wooden jacket1 ,m4 ,the material to be extracted rests upon a perforated bottom1 beneath which enters the pipe ,,hd1 which conducts the steam from the boiler4 ,for the more uniform distribution of the steam1 it is recommended to let this pipe end in a perforated coil4 ,the water condensed in the apparatus itself is discharged through the short pipe ,h1 placed in the lowest part of the still4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #e4 ,an improved apparatus for distilling dry substances by steam has been patented in ,germany by ,messrs4 ,schimmel ,co41 of ,leipzic4 ,the tall conical column at the left 7,fig4 #f7 is the still4 ,about eight inches from the bottom is a perforated diaphragm or false bottom1 upon which the material to be distilled is placed by introducing it through the still-head4 ,a perforated coil below the diaphragm projects steam upwards through the mass1 which is occasionally agitated from without by means of a horizontal stirring apparatus indicated by the two crosses4 ,any condensed water which may run back is converted into steam by the heating coil at the bottom4 ,meanwhile1 the mass itself is heated by a long coil lining the body of the still and carrying steam at a high pressure4 ,whatever of volatile oil is carried forward by the steam passes through the still-head into the cooler on the right1 where both oil and steam are condensed1 and from where they flow through a small funnel tube into three successive receivers1 which are arranged like ,florentine flasks1 and which retain the volatile oil that has separated4 ,from the last receiver the water1 which is still impregnated with oil1 enters another reservoir1 shown in the illustration only by dots1 and from there it flows into a small globular still situated underneath2 in which1 by means of steam1 nearly all the oil still retained is again volatilized with the steam of the water and both again conducted to the cooler4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #f4 ,attempts have been made to effect the distillation of volatile oils without the use of steam by means of hot air1 but comparative experiments have shown that less oil is obtained4 ,with the use of steam1 the vegetable substances swell up by the absorption of water1 and thus afford a free passage to the oil1 liberated from the sacs containing it4 ,with the use of hot air1 on the other hand1 the surface of the plant is completely dried and shrivels to a hard solid mass1 which offers considerable resistance to the process of distillation4 ,this injurious effect of hot air can be somewhat overcome by thoroughly moistening the plants to be distilled1 and allowing the hot air1 before entering the still1 to pass through a pipe filled with sponges constantly kept wet4 ,but this process offers no advantages over that by steam4 ,the apparatus required is far more complicated2 and1 besides1 a ventilator has to be provided for forcing the hot air through the apparatus4 ,separation of the oil and water4--,as previously mentioned the specific gravity of most volatile oils is less than that of water4 ,this behavior is utilized for the separation of the oil and water1 by means of a so-called ,florentine flask 7,fig4 #g74 ,it consists of a glass flask provided near the bottom with a pipe1 a1 rising vertically to near the neck c of the flask where it is bent downwards as shown in the illustration4 ,the mixed liquid of water and oil drips from the cooling pipe into the flask1 and the water w1 being specifically heavier1 separates from the oil floating on the top1 and gradually ascends in the pipe a1 finally flowing over at d4 ,oils specifically heavier than water are caught in receivers provided with a discharge-pipe near the mouth of the flask as shown in ,fig4 #h4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #g4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #h4 ,the oil delivered from the receivers is1 however1 still mixed with some water1 dirt1 etc41 and for their separation is allowed to stand quietly for some time4 ,the final separation is effected either by simply pouring off the oil1 especially if larger quantities have to be handled1 or with the assistance of a separator-funnel 7,fig4 #i74 ,this consists of the glass-funnel ,t secured to the stand ,g1 and provided with a close-fitting lid1 ,p4 ,the fluid is poured into the funnel1 the lid placed in position1 and the whole allowed to rest until the water ,w is completely separated from the oil ,o4 ,the oil is then separated from the last drops of water by carefully opening the faucet ,h4 ,most volatile oils are obtained by distillation1 but this method is not practicable for separating the odoriferous principle of many of the most sweet-scented and delicate flowers1 partially because the flowers contain too little oil1 and partially because the oil would lose in quality if obtained by distillation4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #i4 ,extraction4--,for obtaining the volatile oils by extraction various solvents such as ether1 bisulphide of carbon1 etc41 may be employed4 ,carefully rectified petroleum-ether is very suitable for the purpose4 ,it completely evaporates at about #abb ,f41 and when sufficiently purified does not possess a disagreeable odor4 ,the process of extraction is briefly as follows3 ,the material to be extracted is treated in a digester with petroleum-ether or one of the above-named solvents4 ,the solution is then drawn off and the solvent evaporated in a still4 ,the recondensed solvent flows immediately back into the digester and further extracts the material contained therein4 ,the operation is repeated until nothing soluble remains4 ,in practice some difficulties are1 however1 connected with this process since1 besides the volatile oils1 resins1 and coloring and extractive substances are dissolved1 which have to be removed1 as well as the last traces of the solvent1 as otherwise the oil would acquire a foreign odor4 ,further the solvents mentioned are very volatile and inflammable1 requiring the greatest precautions as regards fire4 ,for these reasons the extraction process is not suitable for many purposes1 and though at first great hopes were entertained in regard to it1 its use is limited to substances with a large content of volatile oil4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,for extraction on a small scale1 the apparatus1 ,fig4 #aj1 is a very suitable one4 ,it is especially adapted for manufacturers of perfumery1 who wish to extract fresh flowers4 ,it consists of a cylindrical vessel1 ,c1 of tin plate1 provided on the bottom with the stop-cock a and the pipe b4 ,the lid ,d fits into a gutter1 ,r1 running around the edge of ,c1 and is hermetically closed by water in ,r4 ,the cylinder is filled with the vegetable substance to be extracted1 and sufficient petroleum-ether or bisulphide of carbon to cover it1 poured in4 ,the lid is then adjusted1 the gutter ,r filled with water and the apparatus allowed to stand quietly for forty minutes4 ,to remove the fluid from the cylinder1 the faucet o in the lid is first opened1 and then the stop-cock a2 the fluid escapes at b1 and is caught in a well-closed vessel4 ,the operation may be repeated once or twice1 or the vegetable substance is pressed out by means of a wooden plate1 and the apparatus filled anew4 ,the faucet h serves for emptying the gutter ,r4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,extraction being finished1 the cock o is opened1 and then the cock a1 and the fluid allowed to run into the flask of the distilling apparatus 7,fig4 #b74 ,for working on a large scale1 the flask is1 however1 too small1 and is suitably replaced by a bottle-shaped tin vessel1 ,f 7,fig4 #aa71 the conical cover ,d of which is secured by means of the rubber ring ,r and iron screw-clamps1 ,s4 ,a bent glass tube fitted into the cover is connected with the cooling-pipe of the apparatus shown in ,fig4 #b4 ,but the oils prepared by extraction are not sufficiently purified by mere rectification1 as traces of the solvent adhere tenaciously to them1 which can only be removed by passing a current of air through the oil4 ,but contact with air has an injurious effect upon the delicacy of the odor4 ,for expensive oils a current of air should therefore never be used1 but one of pure carbonic acid4 ,fig4 #ab shows a suitable apparatus for the purpose4 ,the large bottle ,a1 filled half full with pieces of white marble1 is closed with a doubly-perforated cork2 through one of the holes is inserted a funnel-tube1 and through the other a short tube bent at a right angle4 ,the latter is connected with another tube which reaches to the bottom of the vessel ,b1 in which is also inserted a tube open in the bottom1 and a short tube bent at a right angle4 ,alongside ,b stands another vessel1 ,c1 arranged in the same manner4 ,the tube leading from ,c is connected with a tin pipe1 ,d1 with a rose-like expansion on its lower end4 ,this pipe is inserted in the glass balloon containing the volatile oil4 ,finally1 a pipe leads to the flask ,f1 filled with water4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,to put the apparatus in operation1 strongly diluted hydrochloric acid is poured through the funnel-tube upon the pieces of marble in ,a1 which causes the development of a current of carbonic acid4 ,but as the latter carries along water and hydrochloric acid1 it has to be freed from them before coming in contact with the volatile oil4 ,the vessels ,b and ,c serve for the purpose4 ,b is half filled with water1 while ,c contains strong sulphuric acid4 ,in ,b the hydrochloric acid carried along with the current of carbonic acid is retained1 while the water is fixed on the sulphuric acid in ,c4 ,the current of carbonic acid passing out from ,c is perfectly pure1 and enters the volatile oil through the fine perforations in the pipe ,d4 ,it absorbs the traces of solvent still adhering to the oil1 and finally passes out through the water in the bottle ,f4 ,volatile oils obtained by extraction1 and purified by a current of carbonic acid1 will keep for years without undergoing alteration1 if placed immediately in hermetically closed vessels and stored in a dark place4 ,oils purified by a current of air always become somewhat thickly fluid by storing1 and partially lose their fine odor1 which is due to the oxygen absorbed during the process4 ,for the extraction of oil on a larger scale1 the apparatus shown in ,fig4 #ac is very suitable4 ,it consists of two principal parts1 the actual extracting vessel ,e1 and the still ,b4 ,the extracting vessel ,e sits in a vat containing cold water1 ,w1 the arrangement being such that the heated water can be removed and replaced by cold4 ,the still ,b sits in a boiler1 ,k1 filled with hot water4 ,the apparatus is charged as follows3 ,the conical head ,c of the extracting vessel ,e is unscrewed and its connection at ,h with the pipe ,r loosened4 ,the extracting vessel is then charged with the vegetable substance1 the head ,c replaced1 and the connection with the pipe ,r restored4 ,the cocks ,h#b and ,h#d are then opened1 and the required quantity of solvent is brought into the still4 ,both cocks are then closed1 and the cocks ,h and ,h#a opened4 ,the water in the boiler is then heated until the contents of the still commence to boil4 ,the vapor of the solvent ascends through the pipe ,r2 on entering the extracting vessel ,e it is condensed1 and after falling as a spray upon the material to be extracted1 finally returns impregnated with volatile oil to the still ,b4 ,here the solvent is revaporized1 and passes again through the material in the extracting vessel1 while the extracted oil remains in the still4 ,during the boiling of the solvent the extracting vessel must be suitably cooled by the constant admission of cold water4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,when extraction is finished1 the cocks ,h and ,h#a are closed1 and the cock ,h#b1 which is connected with a cooling worm1 is opened4 ,the solvent is then evaporated1 and regained by condensation4 ,the oil is discharged1 from the still through a pipe in the bottom provided with the cock ,h#c4 ,the apparatus may also be so arranged that the still ,b is connected with two extracting vessels which are used alternately1 while the contents of one are being extracted the other is emptied and refilled4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,for working on a very large scale1 ,heyl's extracting apparatus1 shown in ,fig4 #ad1 is very suitable4 ,it consists of a battery of four or more cast iron or sheet iron cylinders1 ,a#a to ,a#d1 communicating with each other and surrounded by steam jackets4 ,the extracting vessels are so arranged that they can be emptied by tilting1 which is rather inconvenient1 as all the pipes have to be unscrewed4 ,in each cylinder close above the bottom is a perforated plate covered with fine wire-gauze1 upon which the material to be extracted is placed4 ,the cylinder is filled to the top1 and1 after placing a similar plate upon it1 the upper opening is closed by a lid suspended to a crane4 ,the cylinder1 as well as the lid1 is provided with a broad flange1 between which is placed a hemp tissue firmly pressed together by #ab clamps to serve for packing4 ,after filling the cylinders with the material to be extracted and arranging the packing1 the solvent 7bisulphide of carbon7 is conducted from a reservoir through the principal pipe1 ,b1 to the extracting vessels1 and is introduced into ,a#b by opening the cock ,c#b1 which communicates with the pipe ,b4 ,the bisulphide of carbon passes through the bent pipe ,d#a1 enters through the cock ,e#b1 below the false bottom of the cylinder ,a#b1 and1 after penetrating the mass and filling the cylinder1 runs through the cock ,c#b of the bent pipe ,d#b1 and the cock ,e#c into the cylinder ,a#c1 reaching the fourth cylinder in the same manner through the cock ,c#c1 the pipe ,d#c1 and the cock ,e#d4 ,from the last cylinder it passes as a thoroughly saturated oil solution into a reservoir1 in which a vacuum has been created to promote the circulation of the fluid in the entire apparatus4 ,after a quantity of oil solution corresponding to the contents of the cylinder ,a#d has arrived1 the cock ,g#d is closed and the cock ,c#d opened1 whereby the cylinder ,a#d is connected with ,a#a by the bent pipe ,d#d and the cock ,e#a4 ,after the exhaustion of the contents of the cylinder ,a#b1 which is recognized by means of the glass tube ,h#b placed on ,d#b by the fluid running off being colorless1 the cocks ,c#a and ,e#b are closed1 and ,c#b and ,e#c opened1 whereby the solvent runs into ,a#c1 and from there to ,a#d and ,a#a2 ,a#b being omitted4 ,to effect this omission1 and at the same time not to prevent the introduction of bisulphide of carbon1 ,c#a1 ,c#b1 ,c#c1 and ,c#d1 are so-called two-way cocks1 which1 when placed in one position1 connect the principal pipe ,b with the branch pipes ,d1 but interrupt a further flow through the principal pipe ,b2 while in the other position they close the pipes ,d and open the principal pipe ,b4 ,the cylinder ,a#b is1 however1 still filled with the solvent and material saturated with it4 ,to remove the solvent1 the discharge cock ,k#b on the bottom of the cylinder is opened1 which communicates with the discharge pipe ,j1 through which the bisulphide of carbon is conducted into a reservoir4 ,the discharge is promoted by opening the cock ,m#b1 connected with the pipe ,l1 and the admittance of compressed air1 which displaces the liquid solvent4 ,after the flow of the latter has ceased1 the steam cocks on the jacket ,o#b and the cylinder ,p#b are opened under constant admission of air and simultaneous introduction of steam through the pipe ,n into the upper part of the cylinder4 ,the solvent 7bisulphide of carbon7 converted into vapor by the heat1 is conducted together with the aqueous vapor1 by the admission of air through the cock ,k#b1 the pipe ,j1 and a cooling pipe placed between the extracting vessels and the reservoir1 and collected in a reservoir to be re-used4 ,on account of the great volatility of bisulphide of carbon1 considerable loss would1 however1 be incurred by the above-mentioned admission of air4 ,to avoid this1 the reservoir serving for the reception of the condensed bisulphide of carbon and aqueous vapor is closed1 and connected by a pipe with a long1 narrow1 horizontal cylinder half filled with oil1 and provided with a fan-shaft4 ,the vapors of bisulphide of carbon entering the cylinder from the reservoir are absorbed1 together with the air by the oil1 the surface of which is constantly agitated by the fan-shaft1 while the air1 rendered entirely inodorous1 passes out at the other end4 ,the bisulphide of carbon is finally separated from the oil by distillation and again used4 ,after the cylinder ,a#b is sufficiently steamed1 it is emptied and again charged with material and connected with the cylinder ,a#a2 while the other cylinders undergo the same manipulations described above4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,the saturated oil solution is subjected to distillation1 which is readily effected in ,heyl's apparatus1 ,fig4 #ae4 ,the lower part of the still ,a of boiler plate is surrounded by the steam-jacket ,b1 into which steam is admitted through ,c and the condensed water discharged through ,d4 ,the concentrated oil solution runs from a reservoir1 standing at a higher level through the pipe ,e into the still1 the admission of a sufficient quantity being indicated by the gauge ,f4 ,the bisulphide of carbon brought to the boiling point 7#aad ,f47 by the steam introduced into the jacket1 vaporizes quickly2 the vaporization being still more accelerated by revolving the stirrer ,h1 by means of the crank ,g4 ,the vapors of bisulphide of carbon escape through four openings in the upper part of the still1 into a capacious worm1 the lower part of which enters1 under water1 a reservoir4 ,notwithstanding the volatility of bisulphide of carbon1 the oil retains a portion of it so tenaciously that a complete separation cannot be accomplished by the introduction of steam into the jacket ,b4 ,hence1 in order to vaporize the last traces of the solvent1 air is introduced into the oil through the pipe ,k1 the lower end of which is perforated4 ,after completed distillation the oil is discharged through ,l4 ,maceration or infusion4--,this process is employed for flowers with an inconsiderable content of volatile oil or whose odoriferous substance would suffer decomposition or alteration by distillation4 ,the process is founded on the affinity of odoriferous substances for fatty bodies which1 when impregnated with them1 are called pomades4 ,these are afterwards made to yield the aroma to strong alcohol1 so that finally there is obtained a solution of the volatile oil in alcohol from which the pure oil is obtained by distilling off the alcohol4 ,the fat used1 olive oil1 lard1 etc41 should be entirely neutral1 i4 e41 free from every trace of acid4 ,the fats are purified by treating them several times in the heat with weak soda-lye and then washing carefully with water until the last traces of the lye are removed1 and the fat shows no alkaline or acid reaction4 ,with the use of olive oil the so-called ,huiles antiques are obtained1 which are merely solutions of volatile oils in the fixed oil4 ,by the use of lard1 etc41 the genuine pomades are obtained1 which are directly used as expensive articles of perfumery1 but in the factories serve as a starting point for the preparation of volatile oils4 ,the old process of maceration1 which is still in use in some parts of ,france1 is as follows3 ,a certain quantity of fat is placed in an enameled iron or porcelain pan provided with a water or steam bath4 ,when the fat is melted1 the freshly gathered flowers from which the aroma is to be extracted are thrown in and left to digest for from twelve to twenty-four hours1 the fat being kept fluid and stirred frequently4 ,when the flowers are completely exhausted1 the fat is strained from them into fresh pots1 in which it is again macerated with fresh flowers as before4 ,this operation is repeated ten to fifteen times until the pomade has acquired the desired strength4 ,experience1 however1 has shown that volatile oils prepared by this process possess a finer odor the shorter the time the flowers remain in contact with the fat4 ,piver has devised an apparatus which reduces the time of maceration to the shortest period possible4 ,the kettle to the left1 ,fig4 #af1 supplies the fat heated to the proper temperature1 which circulates slowly through the macerating tank1 in which a constant temperature of #adi ,f4 is maintained by means of a steam pipe4 ,the macerating tank is divided into compartments1 in which baskets containing the vegetable substance to be extracted are suspended4 ,the basket on the left contains the substance which has passed through all the compartments2 it is from time to time removed1 filled with fresh substance1 and then attached to the right1 the other baskets being moved to the next compartment to the left4 ,in this way the fresh substance has to traverse each compartment from right to left1 while the fat flows slowly from left to right1 and saturated with the perfume of the substance collects in the tank on the extreme right4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #af4 ,maceration is employed for the flowers of the orange 7citrus aurantum71 of the mock orange 7,philadelphus coronarius71 of the acacia 7acacia ,farnesiana71 of the violet 7viola odorata71 of the mignonette 7rsda odorata71 etc4 ,the process of absorption1 or enfleurage1 as it is called by the ,french1 is chiefly made use of for procuring the odoriferous principle of very delicate flowers1 the delicious odor of which would be greatly modified1 if not entirely spoiled1 by the application of heat4 ,the older apparatus employed for the purpose consists of a number of shallow wooden frames of about #aeah inches1 inclosing at half their depth a sheet of glass4 ,the edges of the frame rise about an inch above each surface of the glass1 and1 being flat1 the frames stand securely upon one another1 forming often considerable stacks4 ,these frames are called chassis1 those just described being termed chassis aux vitres1 or chassis aux pomades1 to distinguish them from a different form1 which is used where oil has to be submitted to the process of absorption4 ,the process in the case of pomade is as follows3 ,each sheet of glass is uniformly coated with a thin layer of purified grease1 care being taken that the grease does not come in contact with the woodwork of the frames4 ,the flowers are then thinly sprinkled1 or rather laid1 one by one1 upon the surface of the fat1 where they are allowed to remain one or two days1 when they are removed and replaced by fresh ones4 ,the operation is thus continued for twenty-five or thirty days1 until the fat is saturated with aroma4 ,the frames charged with fat and flowers are stacked one upon the other1 forming1 in fact1 a number of little rectangular chambers4 ,for perfuming oils a metal sieve1 ,fig4 #ag1 is substituted for the glass plate4 ,upon the sieve a piece of thick cotton cloth saturated with oil is laid1 and upon this the flowers are scattered1 and left there until fresh ones have to be substituted4 ,the operation is repeated until the oil is sufficiently impregnated with aroma1 when the cloth is subjected to pressure and the expressed oil filtered4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ag4 ,this process is very tedious1 requiring much labor and a long time for the impregnation of the fat or oil1 but1 notwithstanding its faults1 it is still pursued to a great extent1 some ,french firms using #cjjj such frames during the season4 ,with the apparatus1 shown in ,fig4 #ah1 the process of absorption can1 however1 be conducted with very little expense of labor and time4 ,it has the further advantage that the flowers do not come in direct contact with the fat1 whereby a saving of the latter is effected1 and it is less liable to rancidity4 ,the apparatus consists of a tall wooden box provided with doors which can be hermetically closed4 ,in the box are placed upon brackets a number of glass plates1 g1 so arranged one above the other that1 for instance1 those with uneven numbers are on the left side1 leaving an open space to the right1 while those with even numbers are arranged on the right side with an open space to the left4 ,from the bottom of the box a pipe passes into a sheet-iron cylinder1 ,k1 filled loosely with flowers1 and provided with lateral openings1 ,o and ,o4 ,from the lid of the box ,k ascends a pipe1 e1 which is connected with a small ventilating apparatus kept in motion by a clockwork and weights4 ,this ventilator when in motion sucks a current of air through the apparatus4 ,the air enters the cylinder ,k at ,o1 and after ascending through the flowers and becoming impregnated with the vapors of the volatile oil enters through the opening ,o into the box ,k and1 in passing in the direction indicated by arrows1 over the plates coated with fat1 yields its aroma to them4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,another apparatus for the same purpose1 devised by ,piver1 is shown in ,fig4 #ai4 ,the fat is converted into thin macaroni-like threads and brought upon wire gauze stretched in frames4 ,the flowers to be extracted are piled upon tinned metallic plates1 and the trays containing the fat and the flowers are placed in an air-tight chamber arranged as shown in the illustration4 ,the air in the chamber is made to circulate to and fro by the working of a bellows with which the apparatus is provided1 whereby the fat is caused to absorb the odor of the flowers very rapidly and is less liable to rancidity4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,the absorption process is employed for the flowers of the jasmine 7jasminum oderatissimum71 the mignonnette 7rsda odorata71 the violet 7viola tricolor71 the tuberose 7polianthes tuberosa71 etc4 ,storage of volatile oils4--,in storing volatile oils1 they should be carefully protected from light and air4 ,some oils become darker on exposure to light1 while others1 for instance1 lemon oil1 become colorless4 ,most volatile oils1 as previously mentioned1 absorb oxygen from the air with avidity and combine chemically with it4 ,thinly-fluid oils become perceptibly more thickly-fluid and finally even rigid1 the product of oxidation being a resinous body4 ,some volatile oils containing aldehydes are converted1 by the absorption of oxygen1 into acids1 cinnamic acid being1 for instance1 formed in cinnamon oil1 and benzoic acid in oil of bitter almonds4 ,to prevent evaporation1 as well as the above-mentioned effects of light and air1 the volatile oils should be preserved in not too large glass bottles kept as full as possible1 and closed with a good cork1 over which it is best to tie a piece of bladder4 ,the bottles should be stored in a cool1 shady place4 ,the preservation of the oils is assisted by the addition of #j4e to #a per cent4 of anhydrous alcohol4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,testing ,,volatile ,,oils4 ,volatile oils are much adulterated1 the adulterations consisting chiefly in mixing an expensive oil with a cheaper one and with alcohol2 more rarely with chloroform and fat oils4 ,to these adulterations1 which have been common for many years1 has recently been added the previously mentioned hydrocarbon called terpene or camphene1 which is separated in the preparation of concentrated oils4 ,for the recognition of the quality of a volatile oil1 serve first of all its physical properties1 especially its color1 odor and taste4 ,the specific gravity varies too much and is not always a sufficient criterion4 ,reagents can only be employed with a few oils4 ,the chemical detection of adulterations is rendered especially difficult by the fact1 that most of the volatile oils form a mixture of terpenes with other combinations1 in which the separate constituent parts do not appear in fixed1 but in changeable proportions1 and in which the constituents themselves suffer alteration by storing1 air and light4 ,odor and taste are so characteristic for every volatile oil as to suffice in most cases4 ,for testing as to odor1 bring a drop of the oil to be examined upon the dry palm of one hand and for some time rub with the other1 whereby the odor is more perceptibly brought out4 ,to determine the taste1 vigorously shake one drop of the oil with #ae to #bj grammes of distilled water and then test with the tongue4 ,an adulteration with fat oil 7poppy oil1 castor oil7 may be recognized as follows3 ,place a drop of the suspected oil upon blotting paper and expose it to the heat of the water bath4 ,if it evaporates completely and no stain is perceptible1 the oil is pure4 ,but frequently a transparent stain remains with old oils without their being adulterated1 which is due to the resin formed by the absorption of oxygen and remaining dissolved in the oil4 ,in this case a transparent ring is generally formed by the concentration of the resin on the edges of the stain4 ,if no tangible results are obtained by this test1 pour a few cubic centimeters of the oil upon a watch-crystal and heat it very slowly upon a piece of sheet-iron1 until all the odor has disappeared4 ,if the watch-crystal becomes empty in a short time1 nothing but volatile oil was present2 but if a viscous residue remains1 this may consist either of fatty oil or resin1 or of both4 ,treat the residue with strong alcohol2 if it dissolves it may be resin or castor oil4 ,dilute the solution with much water2 a white flocculent turbidity indicates resin2 the separation of an oily liquid1 after standing1 castor oil4 ,if the residue remains undissolved1 it consists of a fatty oil1 generally oil of almond or olive4 ,the presence of castor oil can be accurately determined by bringing the residue from the watch-crystal into a test-tube by means of a glass-rod1 and compounding it with a few drops of nitric acid4 ,a strong development of gas takes place1 after the cessation of which1 solution of carbonate of soda is added as long as there is any sign of effervescence4 ,if the added oil was castor oil1 the contents of the test-tube will show a peculiar odor due to nanthylic acid formed by the action of nitric acid upon castor oil4 ,another method of establishing the presence of fat oil consists in mixing the suspected oil with eight times its quantity of #ij per cent4 alcohol 7specific gravity #j4hbc74 ,if the oil is unadulterated a clear solution is formed2 if it contains fat oil1 the latter remains undissolved4 ,the presence of castor oil1 which of the fat oils is chiefly used for adulteration1 is1 however1 not shown by this method1 it being also soluble in alcohol4 ,a permanent stain upon the paper may1 however1 also be formed by fresh oils obtained by expression from the respective parts of the plant4 ,thus1 lemon oil obtained by expression from the peel1 and which has a far more agreeable odor than that produced by distillation1 always leaves behind a slight grease-stain4 ,detection of alcohol or spirit of wine4--,independent of the alcohol added to assist the preservation of some oils1 adulteration with alcohol frequently occurs1 especially in expensive oils4 ,with a content of not more than #c per cent4 of alcohol1 it suffices to allow one to two drops of the suspected oil to fall into water4 ,in the presence of alcohol1 the drop becomes either immediately surrounded with a milky zone1 or it becomes turbid or whitish after being for some time in contact with the water4 ,dragendorff's test is based upon the fact that oils1 which are hydrocarbons1 suffer no change by the addition of sodium 7ten drops of oil and a small chip of sodium71 while oils containing hydrocarbons and oxygenated oils cause with sodium a slight evolution of hydrogen gas1 and suffer but a slight change during the first five to ten minutes of the reaction4 ,if1 however1 the oil is adulterated with alcohol1 not only a violent evolution of hydrogen gas takes place1 but the oil in a short time becomes brown or dark brown1 thickly fluid or rigid4 ,the detection of alcohol by means of fuchsine1 which has been frequently recommended1 requires special precautions4 ,it must first be ascertained that the oil is free from acids and water2 if such is not the case1 they must be removed by means of caustic potash4 ,after settling1 bring1 by means of a dry pipette1 about five cubic centimeters of the oil into a dry test-tube about ten millimeters in diameter1 without moistening the walls of the upper half of the tube4 ,then bring1 by means of a paper gutter1 a few milligrammes of coarsely-powdered fuchsine into the dry part of the obliquely held tube1 at a distance of one centimeter from the oil4 ,now heat gradually over a lamp until the tube begins to tarnish4 ,with pure oil no evaporation is observed1 but if the oil contains only #j4a per cent4 of alcohol1 every speck of fuchsine will1 after heating to boiling and setting aside1 be surrounded by a stain produced by the alcoholic solution4 ,the chief requirement for this test is that the oil be free from water4 ,if such is not the case1 vapors will be observed1 which condense in the upper portion of the test-tube1 and dissolve fuchsine1 and1 after flowing back1 sink below the oil with a crackling noise4 ,if the oil contains alcohol1 the condensing vapors dissolve fuchsine with greater ease1 and in flowing back mix without crackling4 ,hager's tannin test is very reliable4 ,bring into a test-tube #e to #aj drops of the oil to be examined1 add a piece of tannin the size of a pea1 shake so that the tannin is moistened by the oil1 and let the whole stand at a temperature of #ei to #fh ,f4 ,in most volatile oils tannin is insoluble1 and1 if the oil is pure1 floats for days on the surface without change4 ,if1 however1 the oil contains alcohol1 the tannin absorbs the latter1 according to the quantity present1 in #c to #dh hours1 and forms with it a more or less transparent1 viscous1 tough1 or smeary mass resembling a soft resin1 which settles on the bottom1 and adheres so firmly to it1 as well as to the sides of the tube1 that it cannot be moved by shaking4 ,the mass may be examined as to its consistency with a knitting needle4 ,traces of moisture in the oil are not detrimental to the test1 the tannin mass separating in the form of a hyaline mass only in few oils1 and if this mass is tested with the knitting needle it will be found not tough or smeary1 but hard1 and may sometimes be divided into small grains4 ,with oil of bitter almonds1 cassia oil1 and some oils of clove1 as well as volatile oil containing an acid1 the tannin test is not available4 ,the first two oils even dissolve tannin1 and large quantities of it1 if they contain alcohol4 ,the above-mentioned oils may1 however1 be rendered fit for the tannin test by mixing them with double their volume of benzine or petroleum-ether1 and allowing the mixture to stand for two or three days4 ,if1 however1 the oils contain much alcohol1 the tannin is dissolved4 ,the use of powdered tannin is not advisable1 because it generally deposits in a thin layer on the bottom1 and its alteration is not so perceptible4 ,if1 for practical reasons1 a content of #j4e per cent4 anhydrous alcohol might be accepted as permissible in a volatile oil1 the tannin test would have to be so modified as to mix #aj drops of the oil with a piece of tannin the size of two peas1 and allow the whole to stand for one hour4 ,in this time the above-mentioned content of alcohol would yield no result4 ,detection of chloroform4--,an adulteration with chloroform1 if moderate1 cannot always be detected by the odor and taste4 ,in most cases1 chloroform will considerably increase the specific gravity of the oil4 ,bring into a test-tube #ae drops of the suspected oil1 #de to #ij drops of alcohol1 and #cj to #dj drops of dilute sulphuric acid4 ,after thorough shaking1 add #b or #c shavings of zinc sheet and heat until a vigorous evolution of hydrogen takes place4 ,after again shaking1 set the whole aside1 and heat again when the evolution of gas becomes weaker4 ,this heating and gentle shaking of the fluid is several times repeated4 ,after #bj to #be minutes1 compound the fluid with an equal volume of cold distilled water1 shake vigorously and filter through a paper-filter moistened with water4 ,strongly acidulate the filtrate with nitric acid and compound with nitrate of silver solution4 ,if chloroform is present1 turbidity or a precipitate of chloride of silver appears4 ,detection of benzine4--,an adulteration with benzine can be readily detected only in oils specifically heavier than water4 ,the separation of benzine is effected by distillation from a small glass flask in the water bath4 ,the distillate together with an equal volume of nitric acid of #a4e specific gravity is gently heated in a test-tube4 ,a too vigorous reaction is modified by cooling in cold water1 and a too sluggish action quickened by gentle heating 7dipping in warm water74 ,if the mixture has a yellow color1 dilute it with water1 shake with ether1 mix the decanted ethereal solution with alcohol and hydrochloric acid1 add some zinc and place the whole in a lukewarm place to convert the nitrobenzol formed into aniline4 ,after evolution of hydrogen is done1 neutralize with potash lye1 shake1 take off the layer of ether1 let the latter evaporate and add to the residue a few drops of calcium chloride solution4 ,if benzine is present1 a blue-violet color reaction takes place4 ,adulterations with alcohol1 chloroform1 and benzine are quantitatively determined by bringing a weighed quantity of the oil into a glass flask so that it occupies about four-fifths of the volume of the flask4 ,place upon the flask a cork through which has been passed a glass-tube bent at a right angle and provided with a cylindrical glass vessel serving as a receiver and heating in the water bath4 ,if the distance from the level of the oil to the angle of the glass tube in which it inclines downwards1 amounts1 for instance1 to #d4gb inches1 and the neck of the flask up to its angle is #b4ge inches high outside of the direct effect of the heat of the water bath1 only the above-mentioned adulterants distill over1 while the vapor of the volatile oil condenses at a height of #b4ge inches and flows back into the flask4 ,the distillate is weighed and examined as to its derivation4 ,first add one cubic centimeter of it to two or three cubic centimeters of potassium acetate solution of specific gravity #a4aig and shake moderately4 ,if a clear mixture results1 alcohol alone is present4 ,if1 however1 the mixture is not clear1 and the distilled fluid sinks down and collects on the bottom of the test-tube1 chloroform is very likely present1 and if it remains floating upon the acetate solution1 benzine4 ,next bring two to three centimeters of the distillate into a test-tube and add a piece of sodium metal1 the size of a pea4 ,if violent foaming1 i4 e41 an evolution of gas1 takes place1 alcohol is certainly present1 and possibly also chloroform and benzine towards which sodium is indifferent4 ,however1 in the presence of benzine1 the sodium solution would be colorless1 and in the presence of chloroform1 yellowish and turbid4 ,in case the sodium produces no reaction and alcohol is1 therefore1 not present1 add an equal volume 7two to three cubic centimeters7 of anhydrous alcohol1 and after moderately shaking allow the solution of the sodium and the evolution of gas to proceed1 whereby benzine produces a nearly colorless1 turbid fluid1 and chloroform a yellowish1 milky one4 ,now dilute the fluid with an equal or double volume of water1 shake and allow the mixture to stand quietly4 ,in the presence of benzine a colorless1 turbid layer collects on the bottom of the fluid1 while that collecting in the presence of chloroform is yellowish4 ,in the latter case1 i4 e41 in the presence of chloroform1 the aqueous filtrate yields with lead acetate solution a white precipitate 7lead chloride and lead hydroxide74 ,the adulterant having thus been recognized1 further particulars are learned from the specific gravity of the oil as well as of the distillate4 ,adulterations with terpenes or terpene-like fluids1 such as are gained in the preparation of concentrated or patent oils1 are difficult to recognize4 ,they may be detected by the specific gravity1 the terpenes being1 as a rule1 specifically lighter1 their specific gravity varying between #j4hdj and #j4hgj4 ,the detection of adulterations with volatile oils of a lower quality is very difficult1 if not led to it by the odor and taste4 ,many methods for establishing such adulterations have been proposed1 of which the following are the most important3-- ,i4 ,test with iodine4--,this test is based upon the fact that some oils violently detonate with iodine1 while others develop heat and vapors1 and others again remain indifferent4 ,for this test pour upon about #j4ai gramme of dry iodine in a watch-crystal #d to #f drops of the oil to be examined4 #a4 ,a vigorous reaction 7detonation7 with considerable increase in the temperature and emission of vapors takes place with the following oils3 oils of bergamot1 lemon1 lavender1 nutmeg1 orange peel1 spike1 turpentine1 wormwood4 #b4 ,such a reaction as mentioned under #a1 does not take place with oils of bitter almonds1 copaiba1 calamus1 clove1 peppermint1 rose4 #c4 ,moderate heating and slight vapors are developed with oils of anise-seed1 fennel1 camomile1 curly mint1 marjoram1 rosemary1 sassafras1 thyme4 ,when an oil of the second series becomes heated with iodine and evolves vapors1 it may first of all be adulterated with cheaper oils4 ,this may also be the case when an oil of the third series reacts violently with iodine and evolves vapors with strong heating4 ,formerly the iodine test was highly valued2 it has1 however1 been shown to be unreliable since it is frequently dependent on the age of the oil4 ,in place of iodine1 ,rudolph ,eck recommends a very dilute alcoholic iodine solution1 which is not discolored by oils of turpentine1 while other oils discolor it4 ,dissolve a drop of the oil to be examined in #c cubic centimeters of #ij to #ajj per cent4 alcohol1 and add a drop of the iodine solution4 ,the latter is not discolored in the presence of an oil of turpentine4 ,there are also1 however1 several volatile oils1 which do not discolor the iodine solution4 ,mierzinski mentions the following3 ,all cold-expressed oils from the ,aurantiace1 further oils of coriander1 caraway1 galanga1 rue1 sassafras1 rose1 rosemary1 anise-seed1 fennel1 calamus1 neroli1 angelica1 wormwood4 ,hence1 this reaction cannot be relied upon4 ,,ii4 ,hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test4--,this test sometimes gives good results1 but only with hydrocarbons absolutely free from oxygen and oxygenated oils4 ,it is1 therefore1 not suitable for oils derived from the ,aurantiace4 ,the process is as follows3 ,add to a small quantity of the oil to be examined in a perfectly dry test-tube1 #b to #e milligrammes of pure nitroprusside of copper previously thoroughly dried and finely pulverized1 shake vigorously and gradually heat to boiling4 ,after boiling for a few seconds allow to cool4 ,if the oil is free from oil of turpentine1 or another oil containing no oxygen1 the precipitate formed is brown1 black1 or gray1 and according to the quantity of the reagent added and the original color of the oil1 the supernatant oil will be differently colored and appear more or less dark4 ,if1 however1 the oil is adulterated with oil of turpentine1 the precipitate formed shows a handsome green or blue-green color1 while the supernatant oil retains its original color or at the utmost acquires a very slightly darker one4 ,the longer the oil is allowed to stand after settling1 the more distinct and beautiful the color of the oil and of the precipitate appears4 ,for the establishment and certain recognition of very small quantities of oil of turpentine in oxygenated oils1 it is best to first add very little of the nitroprusside of copper to the oil to be tested1 and a larger quantity only after being convinced either of the purity or adulteration of the oil4 ,this is done to be able1 on the one hand1 better to judge the reaction1 if the oil is pure1 and1 on the other1 if it is adulterated1 to establish such adulteration with certainty and to approximately estimate the quantity of oil of turpentine present4 ,the less nitroprusside of copper is used1 the better small quantities of oil of turpentine can be detected4 ,nearly all volatile oils free from oxygen show the same behavior towards nitroprusside of copper2 they decompose it1 which is not the case with oxygenated oils4 ,the behavior of the latter is shown in the following table3-- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- ,proportion of ,color of the oil ,name of ,color of the nitroprusside after ,color of the the oil4 oil4 of the experiment4 precipitate4 copper to oil4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- ,caraway clear as water #a 3 #ajjj partsslightly dirty gray4 and colorless yellowish ,fennel pale yellowish #a 3 #ajjj brownish-yellow black4 ,dill pale #a 3 #ajjj becomes first reddish-yellow colorless1 then yellowish ,anise-seed pale yellow #a 3 #ajjj yellow ,camomile 7green7 yellowish #a 3 #ajjj brownish-yellow ash-gray4 ,lavender pale yellow #a 3 #ajjj wine-yellow slate-gray4 #a 3 #ajj brown-yellow ,mint 7curly7 colorless #a 3 #ajjj wine-yellow first gray1 then black4 ,peppermint #a 3 #ajjj yellowish black4 #a 3 #ajj brownish-yellow ,balm yellow #a 3 #ajjj dark wine-yellow ,marjoram colorless #a 3 #ajjj yellowish #a 3 #ajj brown-yellow ,sage slightly #a 3 #ajjj wine-yellow dark green4 yellowish #a 3 #ajj brown-yellow dark green1 then nearly black4 ,thyme 7field7 #a 3 #ajjj brownish-yellow slate-gray4 #a 3 #ajj dark brown-yellow nearly black4 ,wormwood yellow-brown #a 3 #ajjj dark brown black4 ,tansy pale yellow #a 3 #ajjj red-brown dirty brown4 ,milfoil dark #a 3 #ajjj first pale blue1 gray-brown4 azure-blue then dark green ,cajeput colorless #a 3 #ajjj brownish-yellow black4 ,clove slightly #a 3 #bjjj rose-red and clear slate-gray4 yellowish #a 3 #ajjj violet-red and clear #a 3 #ejj cherry-red and opaque #a 3 #ajj dark cherry-red and opaque ,cassia brownish-yellow #a 3 #ajjj brownish-red to black4 hyacinth-red #a 3 #ajj dark brown-red ,sassafras yellowish #a 3 #ajjj yellowish-brown ,star anise pale yellow #a 3 #ajjj dark wine-yellow ,valerian pale greenish #a 3 #ajj brownish-yellow ,rue slightly #a 3 #ajj brown-yellow ash-gray4 yellowish ,bergamotte yellowish #a 3 #ajjj dark yellow #a 3 #ajj brownish-red ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- ,if these oxygenated oils are mixed with oils free from oxygen1 for instance1 oil of turpentine1 they show exactly the same behavior as oils free from oxygen2 the nitroprusside of copper is not decomposed and retains its gray-green color4 ,if1 for instance1 oil of cloves is mixed with oil of turpentine1 the red coloration by nitroprusside of copper does not appear4 ,,iii4 ,hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test4--,bring into a test-tube of about #j4e inch diameter1 five to six drops of the oil to be tested and twenty-five to thirty drops of pure concentrated sulphuric acid1 and mix the two fluids by shaking1 whereby either no heating takes place or a scarcely perceptible one1 or the heating is strong or very vigorous and in some cases increased to the evolution of vapors4 ,the mixture is either clear or turbid4 ,after complete cooling1 add to the mixture eight to ten cubic centimeters of #ij per cent4 alcohol1 and after closing the tube with the finger1 shake vigorously4 ,the mixture now shows a different color1 is clear or turbid1 and the deposit formed after standing for one day is also differently colored and either soluble or insoluble in boiling alcohol4 ,the mixture of oil1 sulphuric acid and alcohol is perfectly clear and transparent with oils of bitter almonds1 fennel1 clove and rose2 with anise-seed oil and star anise-seed oil only the alcoholic layer over the mixture of sulphuric acid and oil is clear4 ,the mixture of oil1 acid and alcohol is slightly turbid or nearly clear with oils of valerian1 peppermint and field thyme4 ,with most of the other volatile oils occurring in commerce1 the mixture is more or less milky turbid4 ,heating of the oil and acid mixtures does not take place with pyrogenous oils 7petroleum1 benzine7 or only to a very slight degree1 as with oils of peppermint and mustard4 ,,iv4 ,hager's guaiacum reaction#c serves for the detection of oil of turpentine in a volatile oil4 ,by pouring upon as much guaiacum1 freshly powdered1 as will lie upon the point of a small knife1 in a test-tube #a cubic centimeter 7#be drops7 of spike oil1 and heating nearly to boiling over a petroleum lamp1 the oil after being removed from the flame and allowing the undissolved resin to settle1 shows a yellow color4 ,by now pouring upon an equal quantity of guaiacum in another test-tube #be drops of spike oil and #e drops of rectified oil of t from the flame shows a dark violet color4 ,various other oils behave in the same manner as spike oil1 and hence a content of oil of turpentine can be readily detected in them4 ,other oils do not exhibit this behavior2 but this can be remedied by adding1 in testing for oil of turpentine1 a few drops of an oil of the first class4 #c ,hager1 ,chemische ,reactionen zur ,nachweise des ,terpentinoels in den aetherischen ,oelen1 etc4 ,berlin1 #ahhe4 ,the guaiacum reaction is an ozone reaction and with reference to this1 the volatile oils may be divided into three classes3-- a4 ,oils inclining to the formation of ozone4--,foremost of these is oil of turpentine1 especially when rectified4 ,oils of tansy1 rue1 mint1 juniper1 zedoary1 etc41 show considerably less inclination4 b4 ,oils which1 especially when heated1 directly incite the oil of turpentine to form ozone1 and to color guaiacum violet or blue4--,such oils are many kinds of oil of citronella1 oils of spike1 calamus1 cedar1 etc4 c4 ,oils with a content of oil of turpentine1 which remain indifferent towards guaiacum4--,to such oils1 if to be tested for oil of turpentine1 with the assistance of the guaiacum reaction1 a few drops of an oil of the second class have to be added4 ,v4 ,hbl's iodine method4--,mr4 ,c4 ,barenthin has applied ,hbl's iodine method for fixed oils to the examination of volatile oils4 ,he uses the following solutions3-- #a4 ,fifty grammes iodine and #fj grammes of mercuric chloride in a liter of alcohol freed from fusel oil1 and let stand for #ab hours4 #b4 ,twenty-four grammes of hyposulphite of sodium in a liter of water4 #c4 ,a ten per cent4 solution of iodide of potassium4 ,dissolve #j4a to #j4b gramme of the volatile oil in #aj cubic centimeters of chloroform1 and add first #ae cubic centimeters of the iodine-mercuric chloride solution2 let stand three or four hours1 and1 in case the mixture gets discolored1 add a few more centimeters of solution4 ,now add #aj to #ae cubic centimeters iodide of potassium solution1 dilute with #aej cubic centimeters of water1 and titrate with hyposulphite till the mixture remains clear for about a minute4 ,the iodide of potassium solution must be added before the water1 and the relative proportions between this solution and the iodine-mercuric chloride solution must be #ae to #bj cubic centimeters4 ,the quantity of iodine solution consumed is calculated to iodine for #ajj parts and the figure thus obtained is designated as the iodine number4 ,barenthin has in this manner determined the iodine number of several volatile oils2 other experimenters1 however1 for instance1 ,kremel and ,davies1#d have found different numbers for the same oils1 so that this method requires further thorough examination before it can be classed as available4 #d ,pharm4 ,centralh4 #ahhh1 ,s4 #dhb u4 #eee2 #ahhi1 ,s4 #acc4 ,,vi4 ,a4 ,kremel has endeavored to utilize titration or saponification with alcoholic potash lye for the examination of volatile oils4 ,in his experiments he was guided by the following points3 ,a series of volatile oils contains partially free organic acids1 like oils of bitter almonds and cinnamon1 and partially aldehydes or other combinations4 ,now it seems not impossible1 that up to a certain limit1 the quantities of these combinations in the separate volatile oils remain constant1 thus presenting the opportunity of testing the respective oils as to their quality and purity by saponification4 ,in some cases these combinations are the chief bearers of the specific odor1 and hence the determination of the saponification number becomes of double value4 ,it is1 of course1 self-evident that not every volatile oil can be saponified1 and ,kremel admits that1 even where saponification takes place1 it is not in every case a sure test4 ,the execution of the method is as follows3 ,dissolve #a gramme of the oil to be examined in #b to #c cubic centimeters of #ij per cent4 alcohol freed from acid1 compound the solution with a few drops of phenol-phthalein solution1 and titrate the free acid with normal alcoholic potash lye4 ,the milligrammes of caustic potash used are designated the acid number4 ,after having thus determined the content of acid1 add to the same solution #aj cubic centimeters of the same potash lye1 heat for hour upon the water bath1 and then titrate back the excess of potash lye with normal hydrochloric acid4 ,in this manner the saponification number is obtained4 7,in some cases when the final reaction is not plainly perceptible1 it is advisable to correspondingly dilute with water after heating the alcoholic fluid47 ,the saponification number1 less the acid number1 gives the ether or ester number4 ,kremel has in this manner examined a large number of volatile oils and partially obtained surprising results4 ,rose oil gives a saponification number of #ab1 and geranium oils one of #dj to #ej4 ,while lavender oils give very high saponification numbers1 oil of lemons does not4 ,artificial oil of bitter almonds shows higher saponification numbers than the natural oil4 ,by further compounding the saponified portions of the latter with acid1 a crystalline precipitate of benzoin is formed1 the quantity of which amounts to from #dj to #ej per cent4 of the oil used4 ,such a precipitate1 but only in very small quantities1 is also formed in peach kernel oil1 but not in other similar oils nor in artificial oil of bitter almonds4 ,,vii4 ,f4 ,r4 ,williams has recently endeavored to utilize for testing volatile oils ,maumen's test1 which is based upon the increase in temperature produced in oils by concentrated sulphuric acid1 and which gives valuable points for the examination of some fat oils4 ,of course1 the large quantities of oil otherwise prescribed cannot be used4 ,while for the examination of fat oils #ej grammes of oil are mixed with #aj cubic centimeters of concentrated sulphuric acid in a beaker glass wrapped around with cotton1 ,williams could use only six cubic centimeters of volatile oil4 ,they were brought into a very small beaker glass enveloped in cotton4 ,after reading off the temperature1 twelve cubic centimeters of concentrated sulphuric acid were added and the whole stirred with the thermometer until the temperature no longer rose4 ,numbers were in this manner obtained which might in some cases1 for instance1 cassia oil1 furnish guiding points for judging the purity of the oil4 ,planchon proposes the following procedure in order to recognize a volatile oil3-- ,a4 ,the oil is specifically lighter than water4 #a4 ,the substance is solid and only melts at #cdg ,f43 ,camphor4 #b4 ,the oil at a temperature of over #cb ,f4 contains a crystalline stearoptene4 a4 ,the oil is laevorotatory1 the stearoptene melts at #gg ,f41 and1 on adding sulphuric acid1 a clear solution remains behind3 ,rose oil4 b4 ,the oil possesses no rotatory power1 the stearoptene melts at #ej ,f41 and1 on adding sulphuric acid1 two layers are formed1 only one of which is liquid3 ,anise-seed oil4 c4 ,the oil is dextrorotatory1 the stearoptene melts at #da ,f41 and1 on adding sulphuric acid1 a nearly colorless fluid remains behind3 ,fennel oil4 #c4 ,the oil is perfectly fluid and clear at above #cb ,f4 ,i4 ,the oil explodes with iodine1 emitting violet vapors4 a4 ,the oil thickens in the air and readily forms resin4 ,it requires for its solution several volumes of alcohol3 ,oil of conifers4 b4 ,the oil1 on exposure to the air1 does not thicken and but slowly forms resin4 4 ,it is dextrorotatory4 ,the liquid oil dissolves santalin3 ,oil of the aurantiace4 ,the thick oil does not dissolve santalin3 ,mace oil4 4 ,the oil is laevorotatory4 ,the oil shows an acid reaction and dissolves in equal parts of alcohol3 ,lavender oil4 ,the oil shows a neutral reaction and dissolves in #ab to #ae parts of alcohol3 ,marjoram oil4 ,,ii4 ,the oil gives no explosion with iodine1 but shows an increase in temperature with or without emission of red vapors4 a4 ,the oil shows an acid reaction4 4 ,the blue or green oil shows the acid reaction only indistinctly3 ,milfoil oil4 4 ,the colorless or brown oil gives a turbid fluid with sulphuric acid4 ,it is laevorotatory3 ,spanish marjoram oil4 ,the oil is rendered but slightly turbid by sulphuric acid2 it acquires a red-violet color by nitric acid1 has no effect upon the plane of polarization1 and has a peculiar odor3 ,oil of valerian4 b4 ,the oil is neutral4 4 ,it dissolves with difficulty in alcohol4 4 ,the oil is miscible in every proportion with alcohol4 #a4 ,it is dextrorotatory4 ,the oil is colorless or yellowish1 it thickens on exposure to the air1 and dissolves and reduces fuchsine3 ,caraway oil4 ,the oil is thick1 yellow-brown or red-yellow1 and has a peculiar odor3 ,calamus oil4 #b4 ,the oil is laevorotatory4 ,it is fluid and has an aromatic odor3 ,rosemary oil4 ,the oil is thick and very pungent3 ,cubebs oil4 ,,iii4 ,the oil dissolves iodine without vigorous reaction and without an increase in the temperature4 a4 ,the oil is blue and green4 ,it has an agreeable1 camphor-like odor3 ,camomile oil4 ,the green oil thickens in the air and is dextrorotatory3 ,wormwood oil4 ,the oil is generally green and produces no effect upon the plane of polarization3 ,cajeput oil4 b4 ,the oil is colorless or yellow-brown4 4 ,it separates a solid stearoptene at about #cb ,f43 ,rue oil4 4 ,the oil remains liquid at several degrees below #cb ,f4 #a4 ,dextrorotatory oils4 ,the oil shows an acid reaction1 and gives with sulphuric acid a somewhat turbid solution1 which becomes clear by the addition of alcohol3 ,dill oil4 ,the oil gives with sulphuric acid a yellow-red turbid solution1 which becomes clear and peach-blossom red by the addition of alcohol3 ,eucalyptus oil4 #b4 ,laevorotatory oil4 ,the oil showing an acid reaction becomes thick in the air and has a characteristic odor3 ,mint oil4 ,the oil shows a neutral reaction and has a camphor-like odor3 ,thyme oil4 ,,iv4 ,the oil does not dissolve iodine1 does not heat with sulphuric acid1 and does not react upon nitric acid4 ,the odor is empyreumatic3 ,petroleum4 ,b4 ,the oil is specifically heavier than water4 #a4 ,the oil shows an acid reaction4 ,it is soluble in #cj parts of water1 boils at #cef ,f41 and smells of bitter almonds3 ,oil of bitter almonds4 ,the oil has an agreeable1 sweet odor and boils at from #cib to #dca4f ,f43 ,wintergreen oil4 #b4 ,the oil shows a neutral reaction4 a4 ,the oil is laevorotatory4 ,it becomes blue by the addition of sulphuric acid3 ,oil of cloves4 b4 ,the oil is optically inactive4 ,the thick oil gives with sulphuric acid a turbid1 black-brown fluid2 the odor is agreeable3 ,cinnamon oil4 c4 ,the oil is dextrorotatory4 ,the thick oil has an agreeable odor3 ,sassafras oil4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,the ,,volatile ,,oils ,,used ,,in ,,perfumery4 ,the volatile oils1 as previously mentioned1 may be divided into three groups1 viz3 the pure hydrocarbons1 oxygenated oils1 and sulphuretted oils4 ,chemically1 this division is1 however1 of little value1 since1 among bodies which should be classed according to it in one of the groups1 combinations are found which vary very much in a chemical respect1 and belong partially in the groups of alcohols1 indifferent bodies1 acids1 etc4 ,it is1 therefore1 preferred not to attempt a classification of the volatile oils according to their chemical composition1 but simply to enumerate them in alphabetical order4 ,acacia1 oil of1 commonly called oil of cassie4 ,the flowers or buds of the acacia ,farnesiana yield a somewhat thickly-fluid1 greenish-yellow oil of a very intense but delightful odor4 ,the oil may be obtained either by extraction or absorption4 ,the acacia is cultivated in special plantations along the ,riviera di ,genova4 ,these plantations being controlled by a few perfumers1 the oil is not allowed to reach the market1 and does not form an article of commerce4 ,the green-colored extrait d'acacia is a solution of the oil in alcohol4 ,almond oil 7bitter7 7oleum amygdal amar7 is obtained by submitting bitter almond cake 7left after the expression of the fixed oil from bitter almonds7 to distillation with water4 ,the volatile oil does not exist ready formed in the bitter almond1 nor in the almond cake1 but results from the decomposition of a glucoside called amygdalin1 contained in the cake1 under the influence of emulsin and water1 the emulsin acting as a ferment1 into benzylic aldehyde1 glucose and prussic acid4 ,the almond tree grows wild1 but is also cultivated in ,southern ,europe1 ,africa1 ,barbary1 ,palestine and ,syria4 ,the bitter almonds brought from ,barbary are considered the best4 ,besides1 in almonds1 amygdalin occurs in various other plants2 for instance1 in the leaves of the cherry laurel1 the leaves and kernels of the peach1 the kernels of the black cherry and other varieties of prunus and amygdalus1 they all yielding1 after maceration with water1 a distillate containing prussic acid and oil of bitter almonds4 ,instead of the comparatively expensive bitter almonds1 peach kernels freed from their hard shells are extensively used in the fabrication of oil of bitter almonds4 ,the oil is prepared as follows3 ,the press cakes of bitter almonds or peach kernels are ground and soaked about twenty-four hours in twice their weight of water to which one-third their weight of salt has been added4 ,the whole is then submitted to distillation4 ,the temperature of the water should not exceed #aac to #abb ,f4 ,the emulsin contained in the almonds possesses only within certain limits of temperature the power of decomposing amygdalin1 and1 if heated to #agf ,f41 becomes inoperative4 ,hence1 if the almond paste is quickly heated to boiling1 the emulsin becomes inoperative before all the amygdalin is decomposed1 and a portion of it being consequently lost1 the yield is insufficient4 ,the distillation of the almond paste is effected in a current of steam4 ,a portion of the prussic acid formed by the decomposition of the amygdalin adheres tenaciously to the oil4 ,this content of prussic acid makes the oil of bitter almonds exceedingly poisonous1 while in itself it is non-poisonous4 ,it can be freed from the prussic acid by shaking with ferrous sulphate 7blue vitriol7 solution4 ,by then distilling over burnt lime the originally yellow or yellowish oil is obtained colorless4 ,it is then thinly fluid1 of a peculiar agreeable odor and strongly nutty taste4 ,its specific gravity is #a4jdc at #ei ,f41 but varies a little with age4 ,it boils at #cef ,f41 and dissolves in #ac parts of water1 but more readily in alcohol and ether4 ,in the air it is rapidly converted into benzoic acid by the absorption of oxygen4 ,it has to be carefully protected from air and light and kept in well-closed bottles in a dark place4 ,the crude oil1 containing from #b to #e per cent4 prussic acid1 has generally a yellowish color4 ,oil of bitter almonds may be prepared artificially in many ways4 ,by allowing chlorine to flow into boiling toluene1 the latter is converted into benzyl chloride3- ,c#f;,h#e7;,,ch#c7 ,cl#b ,c#f;,h#e7;,,ch#b;,cl7 ,h,cl ----toluene----- -benzyl chloride-- chlorine hydrogen chloride ,by withdrawing the chlorine and one atom hydrogen from the benzyl chloride and introducing for it one atom oxygen1 the benzyl chloride is converted into benzaldehyde4 ,this conversion is readily effected by continuously boiling1 best with the introduction of carbonic acid1 #a part of benzyl chloride with #a parts of lead nitrate and #aj parts of water1 and finally distilling the benzaldehyde off by steam4 ,the decomposition takes place according to the following equation3-- #b;,c#f;,h#e7;,,ch#b;,cl7 ,pb7,,no#c7b #b;,c#f;,h#e7;,,cho7 ,pb,cl#b ,n#b,o#c ,h#b,o4 ,the crude benzaldehyde thus obtained is agitated with warm solution of acid sodium sulphite1 the solution formed thereby is separated from undissolved oily particles and cooled1 whereby a combination of benzaldehyde with acid sodium sulphate crystallizes out4 ,this combination is separated from the remaining fluid1 decomposed by acid and submitted to distillation1 whereby benzaldehyde passes over4 ,large quantities of benzaldehyde are at present prepared according to this method4 ,the identity of benzaldehyde with oil of bitter almonds has been established by ,lippmann and ,hawliczek4 ,genuine oil of almonds is much adulterated1 chiefly with alcohol1 nitrobenzole1 and various cheaper oils4 ,an addition of #c to #e per cent4 of alcohol is frequently made by ,italian dealers in order to conceal a content of water1 which at a low temperature is apt to render the oil turbid4 ,to detect the presence of alcohol1 moderately heat a sample of the oil in a distilling apparatus and compound the drops1 first passing over with sodium carbonate solution and then with potassium iodide solution4 ,in the presence of alcohol a yellowish crystalline precipitate of iodoform is formed4 ,an addition of synthetically composed oil might seem of no importance1 since the natural oil does not differ from it4 ,however1 for very fine perfumery the natural oil cannot be replaced by the artificial1 it having been thus far impossible to obtain the latter absolutely chemically pure4 ,it always contains small quantities of undecomposed chlorine combinations which injure the taste and odor4 ,to detect such oil in the natural oil1 bring a few drops upon a tuft of cotton and ignite it4 ,over the burning flame invert a beaker moistened inside with water4 ,on the moist sides of the beaker the soot and hydrochloric acid formed by the combustion of the chlorine combination are precipitated4 ,when the flame is extinguished1 the beaker is rinsed out with water1 the fluid filtered and tested for chlorine with nitrate of silver4 ,an addition of #aj per cent4 artificial oil can in this manner be accurately determined4 ,if genuine oil of bitter almonds containing prussic acid1 be heated with an excess of alcoholic potash lye1 and the excess of the latter be neutralized with hydrochloric acid1 benzoin amounting to #dj to #ej per cent4 of the weight of oil of bitter almonds is1 according to ,a4 ,kremel1 separated4 ,by subjecting artificial oil of bitter almonds to the same treatment1 no benzoin is separated1 so that the genuine oil can in this manner be distinguished from the artificial4 ,kremel further found that oil of bitter almonds prepared from apricot kernels1 when treated in an analogous manner1 yielded considerably less benzoin1 and that cherry-laurel oil containing prussic acid1 which has been considered identical with oil of bitter almonds1 separated no benzoin whatever4 ,should further experiments prove the constancy of this phenomenon1 this reaction would be a convenient means of distinguishing the four products4 ,an adulteration with nitrobenzole and other volatile oils is recognized by mixing #b drops of the oil with #ajj drops of distilled water1 and shaking vigorously4 ,pure oil must completely dissolve4 ,however1 the test yields accurate results only with the use of actually pure distilled water and by accurately observing the above-mentioned proportions4 ,if to #e cubic centimeters of #ij per cent4 alcohol and an equal quantity of distilled water in a test-tube1 #aj drops of the oil be added1 and1 after closing the tube with the finger1 mixture be effected by gently turning the tube twice upside down1 a clear solution will immediately result if the oil is pure4 ,if1 however1 it contains nitrobenzole1 even only #a per cent41 the latter separates1 at first rendering the fluid turbid1 but in the course of a minute1 when gently agitated1 it floats in the form of minute drops upon the fluid1 while1 when at rest1 these drops collect to larger ones on the bottom of the test-tube4 ,if the oil becomes only turbid1 adulteration with other volatile oils is indicated4 ,another test1 given by ,wagner1 is based upon the difference in the specific gravity of mixtures of oil of bitter almonds with oil of mirbane4 ,the specific gravity of commercial oil of bitter almonds varies between #a4jdj and #a4jdc and that of oil of mirbane between #a4ahj and #a4bja4 #e c4 c4 of pure oil of bitter almonds weigh #e4bi grammes4 #e mixed with oil of mirbane #e4ci #e #e4eg #e #e4ge #e of pure #e4ij ,oil of bitter almonds is much used in the fabrication of perfumery4 ,in a pure state its odor is by no means agreeable1 but rather strong and stupefying4 ,when strongly diluted it is1 however1 very pleasant4 ,angelica oil is obtained by distillation with water from the root of ,angelica ,archangelica ,l41 natural order ,umbelliferae4 ,the oil is lighter than water1 possesses the spicy odor of the root and an aromatic pungent taste4 ,it consists mostly of a terpene which turns the plane of polarization to the right1 and boils at #cbj ,f4 ,besides the oil from the root1 one obtained from the seeds also occurs in commerce4 ,it is1 however1 more expensive4 ,in a fresh state it is amber-yellow1 and has a specific gravity of #j4hedi at #ei ,f42 older oil is thickly-fluid1 brown1 and has a specific gravity of ,o4#ijhf4 ,it contains a terpene which turns the plane of polarization to the right1 and has a lemon-like odor4 ,it is used for fine perfumery4 ,anise-seed oil 7oleum anisi74 ,the anise 7,pimpinella anisum ,l471 natural order ,umbelliferae1 contains volatile oil in all parts1 but chiefly in the seeds4 ,dry anise-seed yields by distillation #b to #c per cent4 of oil1 while the peduncle and chaff contain at the utmost #a per cent4 of oil1 which is said to be richer in stearoptene4 ,the anise-seed oil prepared in ,southern ,russia has always been highly valued1 but as it is generally considerably adulterated1 the ,leipsic manufacturers of volatile oils prefer to import the seed and distill it themselves4 ,freshly prepared anise-seed oil is colorless or straw-yellow1 has the odor of anise and a sweetish taste1 leaving a burning sensation upon the tongue4 ,it is thinly fluid at #fh ,f41 but commences to congeal at a somewhat lower temperature1 and the sooner the more stearoptene it contains4 ,good oil should become solid at from #eg4b to #fj4h ,f4 ,it has a specific gravity of #j4ihj to #j4iie at #ei ,f4 ,the specific gravity varies with the content of stearoptene2 the greater the latter the higher the specific gravity4 ,good anise-seed oil contains #e to #aj per cent4 of terpene and #ij to #ie per cent4 of a stearoptene1 called anethol1 ,c#aj;,h#ab,o1 on which the value of the oil depends4 ,the anethol can be separated from the oil by cooling to #cb ,f41 and forms colorless crystals4 ,it has an agreeable odor and intensely sweet taste1 is sparingly soluble in water1 but readily in alcohol1 ether1 and other solvents of volatile oils4 ,good anethol has a specific gravity of #j4ihf1 and melts at #fi to #gj ,f4 ,by frequent contact with the air a small portion of the anethol is oxidized1 very likely to anisaldehyde4 ,by this process the specific gravity is raised and the melting point lowered4 ,anise-seed oil is soluble in #e parts of #ij per cent4 alcohol1 and with #c times its volume of petroleum-ether yields a clear mixture4 ,its mixture with four times its weight of petroleum-ether is turbid1 but becomes clear in ten minutes1 while that with five times its volume of petroleum-ether remains for a longer time turbid4 ,in a fluid state the oil1 when exposed to the air1 becomes resinous and loses its property to crystallize4 ,it should1 therefore1 be kept in tightly-closed bottles in a cool1 shady place4 ,anise-seed oil is used in perfuming soaps and mouth waters4 ,it should1 however1 be used with prudence1 since the sweetish1 penetrating odor of the oil readily overcomes the other volatile oils in the mixture1 and renders them inoperative4 ,star anise oil very much resembles the ordinary anise-seed oil4 ,it is obtained from star anise1 the fruit of ,illicium anisatum1 a tree formerly supposed to be indigenous to ,cochin ,china1 and cultivated in ,china1 ,japan1 and the ,phillipine ,islands4 ,however1 according to ,messrs4 ,bourgeoin-,meiffre1 a ,french firm of ,hano 7,tonkin71 the star anise oil found in commerce is exclusively produced in the ,french colony ,tonkin 7,province ,langson71 the ,french government having made over the entire sale of the oil to the above-mentioned firm4 ,according to a memoir published by ,dr4 ,blondel1 of ,paris1 the star anise tree is not indigenous to the ,chinese provinces ,yunnan1 ,quang-si1 and ,fo-,rien1 but to the province ,langson1 which has by conquest passed into ,french possession4 ,hence1 the producers of star anise and star anise oil are now under ,french control and1 as it seems1 are obliged to sell all the oil produced to the above-mentioned firm4 ,if these statements should prove correct1 the ,chinese harbors ,macao and ,hong ,kong1 from which the greater portion of star anise oil was formerly exported1 will lose their importance in this respect and the product find its way direct from ,hano via ,hayphong to ,marseilles4 ,the first shipment from ,bourgeoin-,meiffre arrived in ,europe in ,december1 #ahij4 ,according to ,messrs4 ,schimmel ,co4's report1 the product is put up and packed exactly like that formerly shipped from ,hong ,kong1 and the oil of excellent quality4 ,star anise oil differs from the ordinary oil in containing a much smaller quantity of anethol1 and hence congealing only at a temperature of from #da to #ej ,f4 ,besides the odor of the terpene contained in star anise oil differs from that of the ordinary oil4 ,admixtures of star anise oil can1 therefore1 be generally recognized by the odor4 ,other methods recommended for its detection are unreliable4 ,balm oil4--,the leaves of this plant1 ,melissa officinalis1 yield by distillation a volatile oil sometimes called oil of melissa4 ,it is colorless or yellowish1 of a pleasant odor1 has a specific gravity of #j4he to #j4ib1 shows a slightly acid reaction and dissolves in #b to #c parts of alcohol4 ,it must not be confounded with the so-called ,east ,india oil of melissa or citronella oil from ,andropogon ,nardus ,l4 ,balm oil is occasionally used in the preparation of eau de ,cologne4 ,basil oil is distilled in ,southern ,france from the fresh leaves of ,ocymum basilicum ,l41 natural order ,labiat4 ,the oil shows the peculiar odor of the herb and crystallizes a few degrees above #cb ,f4 ,in perfumery it is used as an addition to violet and other preparations4 ,the ,french also prepare a pommade basilique1 which serves as a cheap substitute for violet pomade4 ,bayberry oil1 or oil of bay leaves1 is extracted by distillation from the leaves of ,myrcia acris or the bayberry tree4 ,many varieties of the tree exist throughout the ,west ,indies1 which are scarcely to be distinguished botanically1 but have quite a different odor from that of the genuine tree4 ,great care must1 therefore1 be taken in the collection of the leaves which are to be used1 as the admixture of a small quantity of the other leaves may entirely spoil the product of distillation4 ,two oils are obtained1 a light oil of specific gravity of #j4hgj to #j4iij1 and a heavy oil with specific gravity #a4jbc to #a4jcg4 ,when first distilled the oil is colorless1 but by exposure to the air quickly acquires a yellowish tint and1 if the exposure be continued1 becomes quite dark in color4 ,the odor of the freshly-distilled oil is rank1 but in the course of from three to six months it becomes mellow1 and ripens into the agreeable fragrance so much liked in the best specimens of bay-rum4 ,the oil is soluble in all proportions in #ie per cent4 alcohol1 also in ether and petroleum benzine4 ,its chief use is for the preparation of bay-rum4 ,bergamot oil is obtained from the rinds of the fruit of citrus bergamia1 a tree belonging to the natural order ,aurantiace4 ,the rind is grated and the oil running off separated from the aqueous fluid and cellular substance by means of a separating funnel1 or the grated mass is distilled in a current of carbonic acid4 ,the oil is very fluid and pale yellow1 but poorer qualities are frequently greenish or brownish4 ,when distilled with water it becomes perfectly colorless1 but is less durable4 ,its odor is very pleasant1 somewhat like a mixture of orange and lemon oils4 ,its specific gravity is #j4hg to #j4hi4 ,by standing for some time1 the oil separates white crystalline scales 7stearoptene71 which melt at #bbc ,f4 ,the oil becomes solid a few degrees below the freezing point4 ,the ,messina oil of bergamot is considered the best4 ,from other volatile oils of the orange family1 bergamot oil differs in dissolving readily in caustic potash1 forming a clear solution4 ,it has1 however1 the same property as other oils of a similar origin1 of igniting with iodine and not dissolving santalin1 the red resinous coloring matter of santal-wood4 ,bergamot oil may be tested as to its purity by mixing it with alcohol4 ,it becomes pale gray-yellow1 forms a sediment which adheres firmly to the vessel and1 on shaking1 floats about in the form of flakes4 ,after two days the sediment is inconsiderable and difficult to divide into flakes in the clear yellow fluid by shaking4 ,the oil is frequently adulterated with alcohol4 ,to detect such adulteration1 ,righini recommends the following method3 ,mix #ae parts of the oil with a like quantity of pure olive oil or oil of sweet almonds4 ,if alcohol is present1 it immediately separates1 like water1 from the fat oil2 if no separation takes place the oil is not adulterated with alcohol4 ,the tannin test also gives reliable results4 ,in storing oil of bergamot great care must be exercised to exclude air and light1 as it is one of the most changeable oils and soon acquires an odor resembling that of turpentine4 ,large quantities of oil of bergamot are used in perfumery4 ,it forms1 so to say1 the basis for most of the finer products4 ,in ,cologne water it forms the principal constituent in the mixture of volatile oils4 ,cajeput oil 7oleum cajeputi74--,this oil is obtained by distillation from the leaves of several species of ,melaleuc1 natural order ,caryophyllace1 indigenous to the ,east ,indies1 ,banda1 and ,malabar4 ,the ordinary oil has a greenish color and possesses a strong odor of camphor and a pungent taste4 ,it is chiefly imported by way of ,amsterdam1 where it is partially discolored by rectification1 so that two kinds1 the white and green cajeput oil1 are brought into commerce4 ,the color of the latter is generally supposed to be due to a resinous substance containing chlorophyl1 though others assert that it originates from the copper of the distilling apparatus and the copper flasks in which it is dispatched4 ,the specific gravity of the oil varies between #j4iaj and #j4idj1 though specifically lighter and heavier oils are said to occur4 ,it is claimed that an artificial cajeput oil is often prepared from camphor and rosemary oil1 the green color being obtained by distillation with milfoil4 ,the presence of camphor may be readily determined by thoroughly triturating a few drops of the oil with sugar and then dissolving in water1 whereby the particles of camphor separate in the form of white flakes upon the surface4 ,cajeput oil is frequently adulterated with oil of turpentine and rosemary oil4 ,such adulteration is recognized by pure cajeput oil dissolving clear in equal parts of #ij per cent4 alcohol1 which is not the case with the other two oils4 ,camomile or chamomile oil 7oleum anthemidis74--,two varieties of oil of camomile are found in commerce1 one green and the other blue4 ,the first is derived from the flowers of the genuine or ,roman camomile 7,anthemis nobilis7 and the blue from the common variety 7,matricaria chamomila74 ,the last oil is the one chiefly used in the manufacture of perfumery and in medicine4 ,blue camomile oil is generally obtained by distillation4 ,in distilling1 metal ,florentine flasks should be used1 as the oil adheres tenaciously to glass vessels and the distillate has to be treated with ether4 ,the pure oil has a beautiful blue color1 and on heating forms blue vapors4 ,it has a penetrating odor which only by strong dilution becomes similar to that of camomile4 ,by storing in the light and the simultaneous presence of air1 the oil turns green2 later on1 brown1 and is finally converted into a thickly-fluid1 brownish mass4 ,green camomile oil from the genuine or ,roman camomile possesses an agreeable odor of fresh lemons2 it is more seldom used than the other4 ,on account of the slight yield obtained from the flowers1 camomile oil is rather expensive4 ,caraway oil 7oleum carui7 is obtained by distillation from the seeds of the well-known aromatic plant ,carum carui1 or the caraway1 natural order ,umbelliferae4 ,in a fresh1 purified state the oil is colorless1 very thinly-fluid and possesses a pungent taste4 ,the oil prepared from cleansed ,dutch seed is best liked1 while that distilled from ,norwegian or ,tyrolese seed is not much in demand1 its taste and odor not being so pure on account of the many impurities mixed with these kinds of seed4 ,caraway oil consists mainly of a terpene1 ,c#aj;,h#af1 called carvene1 specific gravity #j4hgj1 and of carvol1 specific gravity #j4ifj4 ,the richer the oil in carvol1 the higher its specific gravity4 ,good caraway oil should have a specific gravity of #j4ijj to #j4iaj4 ,the carvol being the actual bearer of the aroma1 the value of the oil exclusively depends on the content of it4 ,in the better varieties of oil1 the content of carvol amounts to from #de to #ej per cent41 while poorer qualities generally contain only from #dj to #db per cent4 ,the carvol and carvene are now frequently separated by fractional distillation4 ,the carvol1 which has three times as strong an odor and taste as the carvene1 dissolves with much greater facility in alcohol4 ,the carvene being offered at very low prices might be suitable for perfuming cheap soaps4 ,caraway oil obtained by distillation from the plant has a less agreeable odor than that from the seed1 and possesses an acrid resinous taste4 ,the purity of caraway oil is recognized by its dissolving clear in equal parts of #ij per cent4 alcohol4 ,if such is not the case1 the oil contains either an admixture of oil of turpentine or does not possess the full normal content of carvol4 ,pure caraway oil does not detonate with iodine1 which is the case with oil containing oil of turpentine4 ,caraway oil is chiefly used for perfuming soap2 for handkerchief perfumes it is not suitable4 ,cedar oil 7oleum cedri7 is obtained by distillation from the shavings of the wood of the ,american or ,virginia cedar 7,juniperus virginiana74 ,for the distillation of oil the waste falling off in the manufacture of lead-pencils is almost exclusively used4 ,it yields about #b to #c per cent4 of oil4 ,the oil is thinly-fluid1 of specific gravity #j4ifbb1 of a greenish color1 and an agreeable but not very penetrating odor4 ,it is a mixture of a terpene1 boiling at about #edj ,f41 and of a hydrocarbon4 ,the latter1 which is called cidrin1 forms the fluid portion of the oil4 ,it has a specific gravity of #j4ihd1 and boils at about #dei ,f4 ,cedar oil is extensively used in the manufacture of toilet soap1 it serving as the basis for other perfumes4 ,care must1 however1 be taken that its odor does not preponderate1 as in such case it readily produces an unpleasant effect4 ,the oil being cheap1 adulteration is scarcely to be feared4 ,a volatile oil is also obtained by distillation from the leaves of the ,juniperus virginiana4 ,in odor it resembles savin oil1 and is unfit for perfuming purposes4 ,cherry-laurel oil 7oleum laurocerasi7 is the volatile oil1 which contains prussic acid1 obtained from the leaves of the cherry-laurel 7,prunus laurocerasus1 ,l474 ,like bitter almonds1 the leaves contain some amygdalin4 ,hence they are macerated with water and allowed to stand in a warm place for #bd hours4 ,by subsequent distillation a volatile oil is obtained which closely resembles oil of bitter almonds1 but differs in some respects4 ,it is colorless or yellowish1 rarely reddish1 and of specific gravity #a4je to #a4jf4 ,in its behavior towards air1 solvents1 and reagents1 it does not essentially differ from oil of bitter almonds4#e #e ,compare ,kremel's observations1 p4 #ia4 ,to detect oil of mirbane in cherry-laurel oil1 ,enrico ,pega adds some alcohol to the oil to be tested and then mixes it with some alcoholic potash lye and a few drops of ferric chloride solution4 ,after standing for a few hours the mixture is shaken and distilled4 ,a small portion of the oil distilling over is freed from water1 poured upon a few small pieces of pure caustic potash in a test-tube1 and heated over a lamp4 ,if the sample is pure it remains colorless2 in the presence of oil of mirbane it acquires a dark coloration in consequence of the formation of nitrobenzide and aniline1 a few drops of calcium chloride solution brought into the mixture producing1 for this reason1 a violet coloration4 ,cherry laurel oil is but seldom used for perfuming purposes4 ,cinnamon oils4--,there are four different kinds of this oil1 viz41 ,ceylon cinnamon oil1 cassia oil1 cinnamon root oil1 and oil of cinnamon leaves4 ,though the first two are very much alike1 the ,ceylon oil is considered the best4 ,ceylon cinnamon oil 7oleum cinnamoni ceylonici74--,formerly this oil was exclusively distilled from chips and waste of the genuine cinnamon bark of the ,cinnamonum ceylonicum1 ,nees1 and came into commerce from ,ceylon4 ,however1 the fabrication of the oil from cinnamon waste or chips is now extensively carried on in ,germany1 and this oil1 being prepared with the assistance of more perfect apparatus1 has almost entirely supplanted that exported from ,ceylon4 ,when fresh1 the ,ceylon oil is colorless1 but when stored for some time it becomes first golden yellow and later on brownish4 ,it is thickly-fluid and heavier than water1 its specific gravity being #a4jfj to #a4jij4 ,it has an agreeable1 aromatic odor and a biting but pure1 sweet taste4 ,its principal constituent is cinnamaldehyde 7,c#i;,h#h,o71 and it contains1 besides1 #d to #h per cent4 of eugenol4 ,the presence of the latter in cinnamon oil may be established by shaking with #ae per cent4 soda-solution1 whereby the eugenol is dissolved1 and decomposing the aqueous solution with hydrochloric acid4 ,the eugenol separated thereby gives in alcoholic solution1 when compounded with a trace of ferric chloride1 a beautiful blue color4 ,cassia oil 7oleum cassi74--,in ,china and ,cochin ,china this oil is obtained by distillation from the bark1 unripe fruits1 buds1 and other waste of the ,cinnamonum cassia or ,cinnamonum aromaticum1 ,nees1 a tree indigenous to those countries4 ,it has a pale yellow color1 which in time becomes brown4 ,it is thickly-fluid1 of specific gravity #a4je to #a4jg1 and possesses a sweet taste with an acrid after-taste4 ,like cinnamon oil1 it consists chiefly of cinnamaldehyde1 but contains no eugenol1 and hence can be readily distinguished from ,ceylon oil by the above-mentioned reaction4 ,one part of pure cassia oil dissolves in two parts of #hj per cent4 alcohol4 ,cinnamon root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves4--,neither of these oils contains cinnamaldehyde1 but abundant quantities of eugenol1 the root oil as much as #ej to #gj per cent4 ,the root oil is quite limpid and has an agreeable odor of cinnamon and cloves4 ,the leaf oil is thickly-fluid1 of the consistency of castor oil4 ,the ,ceylon oil is frequently adulterated with cassia oil4 ,such adulteration is very difficult to detect1 and can only be recognized by experts by the odor and taste4 ,the quality of cassia oil is recognized by the taste and odor1 especially on heating1 and the high specific gravity1 in consequence of which the oil sinks in water4 ,according to ,hager1 cassia oil is frequently adulterated with oil of cloves4 ,this is1 however1 scarcely probable1 the price of oil of cloves being1 on an average1 higher than that of cassia oil4 ,the latter1 however1 is frequently adulterated with cheaper thickly-fluid volatile oils1 especially with cedar oil4 ,in this case the oil does not dissolve in the above-mentioned proportion in alcohol4 ,the value of cassia oil is dependent on its contents of cinnamaldehyde4 ,hence1 the establishment of its actual value requires a quantitative determination of its contents of cinnamaldehyde1 which unfortunately presents great difficulties4 ,for this purpose ,schimmel ,co4 proceed indirectly as follows3 #ge grammes of cassia oil in a capacious boiling flask are mixed with #cjj grammes of a boiling-hot #cj per cent4 solution of acid sodium sulphite1 whereby cinnamaldehyde-sodium sulphite is immediately separated4 ,the whole is then vigorously agitated and allowed to rest for a short time4 7,with oils rich in aldehyde considerable heating generally takes place1 which must eventually be moderated by the addition of cold water47 ,next add about #bjj grammes of hot water and heat the whole1 with frequent shaking1 in the water-bath until the combination of the aldehyde with the acid-sodium sulphite is completely dissolved1 and the non-aldehydes in the form of an oily layer float upon the solution of the aldehyde salt4 ,now allow the whole to cool1 then shake twice with ether2 first1 with about #bjj cubic centimeters1 and then with #ajj2 combine the ethereal extracts of the non-aldehydes separated by means of a separatory funnel1 and filter them into a capacious1 previously-weighed beaker provided with a platinum wire1 the lower end of which is bent in the form of a spiral4 ,now evaporate the ether as much as possible1 by placing the beaker in hot water4 ,when by swinging the beaker the remaining fluid no longer foams up1 allow to cool off and weigh4 ,now return the beaker-glass to the water-bath for ten minutes1 weigh again after cooling1 and repeat the operation until the difference between two weighings does not amount to more than #j4c gramme at the utmost4 ,the weighing previous to the last is taken as the correct one4#f #f ,the manner of expelling the ether is of great influence upon the accuracy of the result4 ,though the non-aldehydes volatilize with difficulty1 they are volatile1 and hence the ether must be quickly expelled1 and the beaker not allowed to stand longer upon the water-bath than necessary for the evaporation of the ether4 ,the weight of the non-aldehydes thus obtained is deducted from the cassia oil used1 the difference giving the content of cinnamaldehyde in the latter4 ,for example3-- ,used #gi4ga grammes of oil4 ,first weighing of the beaker after evaporating the ether #adg4ee grammes ,second #adf4hd ,third #adf4eh ,tare of the beaker #abh4cd ,hence non-aldehydes in the oil #adf4hd grammes4 ,less tare #abh4cd ------ #ah4ej grammes4 ,calculated to per cent41 #bc4a per cent4 #ajj - #bc4a #gf4i per cent4 cinnamaldehyde4 ,by accurately following the directions given1 the difference between two controlling determinations will be only a few tenths per cent41 seldom as much as #a per cent4 ,for practical purposes1 for which alone this method is intended1 this is more than sufficient4 ,according to the reports of ,schimmel ,co41 all the cassia oil brought into commerce from ,china was for a considerable time adulterated with resin and petroleum1 they having found as much as #cj per cent4 of resin in the oil4 ,such adulteration can be established by the determination of the specific gravity and distilling the oil4 ,good cassia oil should show a specific gravity of #a4je to #a4jg at #ei ,f41 and by distillation #ij per cent4 of pure cassia oil must pass over4 ,the residue should not solidify after cooling and acquire the character of a brittle resin2 it must remain at least thickly-fluid1 and under no conditions amount to more than #aj per cent4 ,citron oil 7oleum citri71 from the peel of the fruit of ,citrus medica or the citron tree4 ,the oil is prepared in a similar manner to that of oil of bergamot1 either by expression or distillation1 the latter process yielding more and purer oil4 ,rectified citron oil is colorless1 of an agreeable penetrating odor and acrid taste1 and very sensitive to light and air4 ,by exposure to light it turns yellow1 and if air be admitted at the same time1 it is first converted into a fluid which1 on account of its content of ozone1 possesses strong bleaching powers4 ,the oil at the same time acquires a disagreeable odor1 resembling that of oil of turpentine1 and is finally converted into a resinous mass4 ,citron oil is frequently adulterated with oil of orange and sometimes with oil of bergamot4 ,these adulterations are readily detected by an experienced person by the odor1 this being in fact the best guide4 ,the specific gravity of citron oil is #j4hej at #ei ,f42 it boils at from #ccb4f to #cdc4d ,f4 and congeals at #d ,f4 ,citronella oil 7oleum citronell7 is chiefly distilled in ,ceylon from the lemon grass1 ,andropogon ,nardus1 ,l4 ,it is quite limpid1 of a greenish-yellow to brown color1 and has an odor resembling that of genuine citron oil4 ,its specific gravity is #j4hif at #ei ,f41 and it boils at from #cib to #daj ,f4 ,of the various oils reaching the market that with the trade-mark ,fisher is most in demand1 it being distinguished by special purity4 ,edward ,kremers has found in citronella oil an aldehyde1 ,c#g;,h#ad,o1 a terpene1 ,c#aj;,h#af1 citronellol1 which is isomeric with borneol2 further1 acetic acid and valerianic acid4 ,the ,indian distillers1 it is claimed1 adulterate the citronella oil with petroleum1 an addition up to #be per cent4 being not uncommon4 ,according to experiments by ,schimmel ,co41 pure citronella oil must give a clear solution1 when #a part of the oil is vigorously shaken with #aj parts of #hj per cent4 alcohol4 ,if1 in executing the test1 the kind of turbidity is observed1 and whether the portion insoluble in alcohol separates1 after standing1 upon the surface or on the bottom of the fluid1 and further1 if the above-mentioned quantity of alcohol is not added at one time1 but at first only #a or #b parts of it1 a conclusion may be drawn as to the kind and quantity of the adulterant4 ,petroleum causes a milky-white turbidity1 while in the presence of fat oil the mixture becomes turbid1 but not actually milky4 ,as a rule1 fat oil deposits1 after standing1 on the bottom1 while petroleum floats upon the surface of the fluid4 ,citronella oil adulterated with fat oil does not dissolve in #a to #b parts nor in #aj parts of #hj per cent4 alcohol1 while oil adulterated with not too large a quantity of petroleum1 gives a clear solution with #a to #b parts4 ,the determination of the specific gravity may also serve for the detection of adulterations4 ,this holds good1 however1 only for petroleum1 which reduces the specific gravity1 an addition of fat oil producing no deviation in this respect4 ,the specific gravity of the oil should not be below #j4hie at #ei ,f4 ,citronella oil is much used for perfuming cheap hair oils and toilet soaps2 it is the chief constituent of all perfumes for honey-soaps4 ,in the ,american soap industry it is extensively used1 the yearly consumption being estimated at #a million ounces4 ,cloves1 oil of 7oleum caryophylli71 is obtained by distillation with steam1 or by extraction from the cloves of commerce1 which are the dried unexpanded flower buds of ,caryophyllus aromaticus1 ,l41 or the clove tree4 ,oil of cloves1 when fresh1 is almost colorless1 but on exposure to air acquires a brownish coloration and a thickly fluid consistency4 ,it has the aromatic taste and odor of cloves1 and a specific gravity of #a4cjj to #a4jfe4 ,it frequently shows a slightly acid reaction1 boils at #dhb ,f41 and congeals at #d ,f4 ,it is readily soluble in alcohol1 ether1 and strong acetic acid4 ,it consists of a terpene 7,c#aj;,h#af7 and eugenol 7,c#aj;,h#ab,o#b71 the odor of the oil being due to the latter4 ,the terpene has a specific gravity of #j4iah1 and in distilling passes over first 7light oil of cloves74 ,the eugenol1 when fresh1 is colorless1 has the odor and taste of cloves1 a specific gravity of #a4jfc at #fe ,f41 boils at #dhg4d ,f41 is insoluble in water and glycerin1 but soluble in alcohol1 ether and glacial acetic acid4 ,its alcoholic solution is colored magnificently blue by ferric chloride4 ,if in an alkaline solution it is oxidized with potassium permanganate1 vanillin being formed4 ,an inferior quality of oil is obtained from the stems of the clove buds4 ,it dissolves with greater difficulty than the oil prepared from the buds1 and has a darker red-brown color4 ,to test the value of oil of cloves1 introduce1 according to ,stohman1 into a graduated glass cylinder #aj volumes ether1 #aj oil of cloves1 and #cj of a #aj-per cent4 soda solution4 ,after vigorous shaking1 the eugenol dissolves2 the increase in volume of the aqueous fluid is then proportional to the quantity of eugenol present4 ,for more exact determinations1 dissolve a weighed quantity of oil1 repeatedly shake the aqueous fluid with ether to remove the terpene1 then decompose the eugenol-sodium with dilute sulphuric acid1 dissolve the separated eugenol in ether and weigh after evaporating the ethereal fluid4 ,good oil of cloves does not contain less than #hj per cent4 of eugenol1 and frequently #ij per cent4 or more4 ,oil of cloves is chiefly adulterated with copaiba oil and cedar oil4 ,such adulteration is recognized by the oil not forming a clear solution in every proportion with alcohol1 as is the case with pure oil of cloves4 ,oil of cloves is much used for perfuming purposes4 ,eucalyptus oil 7oleum eucalypti7 is obtained from the leaves of various trees of the eucalyptus family4 ,according to ,merk two kinds of oil must be strictly kept apart3 oleum eucalypti from the leaves of eucalyptus globulus and oleum eucalypti australe1 the former being used in medicine1 and the latter1 which is considerably cheaper1 chiefly for perfuming purposes4 ,however1 ,piesse's opinion that eucalyptus oil1 as far as its odor is concerned1 does not deserve to be classed among perfumes is undoubtedly correct4 ,it has an odor between that of oil of turpentine and cajeput oil1 and as long as perfumery is the art of sweet odors1 such oil cannot be designated a perfume4 ,when not rectified1 eucalyptus oil is mostly yellowish or bluish4 ,in a rectified state it is colorless1 clear1 limpid1 lighter than water1 of a strong odor1 and acrid taste4 ,the oil from eucalyptus globulus has a specific gravity of #j4ijj to #j4ibe1 and dissolves in every proportion in #ij per cent4 alcohol4 ,it is optically inactive or turns the plane of polarization slightly to the right4 ,on standing with sodium it acquires a yellowish coloration1 and does not detonate with iodine4 ,the oil from eucalyptus australe has a specific gravity of #j4hf to #j4hg1 and is but sparingly soluble in #ij per cent4 alcohol1 so that even a solution prepared in the proportion of #a3ae is turbid4 ,it turns the plane of polarization strongly to the left2 acquires1 on standing with sodium1 a red coloration1 and detonates with iodine4 ,eucalyptus oil consists of eucalyptol and eucalyptene1 and perhaps other hydrocarbons4 ,the content of the first1 on which depends the medicinal value of the oil1 varies very much in the oils from the different species of eucalyptus1 the oil from some species1 it is said1 containing no eucalyptol whatever4 ,eucalyptol 7,c#bd;,h#bj,o#b7 is limpid1 colorless1 turns the plane of polarization1 has a specific gravity of #j4ije1 and boils at #cdg ,f4 ,its vapor mixed with air has an agreeable1 refreshing taste1 and its dilute solutions remind one of roses4 ,eucalyptene 7,c#bd;,h#ah7 has a specific gravity of #j4hcf1 and boils at #cbi ,f4 ,fennel oil 7oleum fniculi7 is derived by distillation from the fruits of ,fniculum vulgare1 ,gaertner4 ,large quantities of it are produced in ,saxony1 and also in ,galicea4 ,it is quite colorless1 limpid1 of specific gravity #j4idj to #j4igj and1 with a full content of stearoptene1 possesses a nauseous sweet taste and odor4 ,it contains #fj to #gj per cent4 of anethol and congeals at from #da to #ej ,f4 to a crystalline mass4 ,the leaves of the plant also contain a volatile oil1 which is1 however1 less valued than the seed-oil4 ,good fennel oil should dissolve clear in #a to #b parts of #ij per cent4 alcohol4 ,direct adulterations of this oil do not occur1 but the stearoptene is frequently withdrawn by fractional distillation whereby the oil loses much in value4 ,such oil freed from stearoptene does not congeal1 has a more bitter than sweet taste and does not dissolve in the above-mentioned proportion in alcohol4 ,in perfumery fennel oil is but little used2 sometimes in connection with other volatile oils for perfuming soaps4 ,geranium oil1 palmarosa oil1 ,turkish geranium oil is obtained from ,andropogon ,pachnodes4 ,it is yellowish1 limpid1 of specific gravity #j4hij at #ei ,f41 possesses a very agreeable rose-like odor resembling that of geranium oils from ,pelargonium radula1 ,aiton1 and for this reason is generally designated as ,turkish geranium oil4 ,the odor of the oil is improved by shaking it with water containing lemon juice1 any content of copper being thereby removed4 ,the washed oil is then brought into shallow dishes and exposed for two or three weeks to the sun1 whereby its odor becomes still more like that of rose oil4 ,the oil thus prepared is much used for adulterating rose oil4 ,turkish geranium oil is also much used for the adulteration of genuine geranium oil and is itself adulterated with oil of turpentine4 ,it is extensively employed in perfumery1 especially for perfuming hair oils and pomades1 and in conjunction with geranium oils for rose soap4 ,east ,indian geranium oil is obtained1 chiefly in the ,presidency of ,bombay1 from ,andropogon ,schoenantus1 ,l4 ,it is greenish-yellow to yellow-brown1 has a specific gravity of #j4ijf at #ei ,f41 and consists mainly of geraniol 7,c#aj;,h#ah,o74 ,its odor is rose-like1 though modified by a lemon-like odor4 ,it is principally used for perfuming cheaper articles4 ,french and ,african geranium oils 7oleum geranii7 are obtained by distillation with water from the leaves of various species of pelargonium4 ,many different kinds of this oil are found in commerce4 ,the finest and most expensive are the ,spanish and ,french geranium oils1 so-called ros1 which are distinguished by their fine odor1 closely resembling that of rose oil4 ,they are derived from ,pelargonium radula1 and are either yellowish1 brownish1 or pale green1 the brownish oils being preferred4 ,it congeals at #fj4h ,f4 and turns the plane of polarization to the right4 ,another good geranium oil is the ,african1 which is chiefly prepared in ,algiers from ,pelargonium roseum1 ,wildenow1 and ,p4 odoratissimum1 ,aiton4 ,it closely resembles the ,french oil1 but turns the plane of polarization to the left4 ,french geranium oil is said to be frequently adulterated with fat or copaiba oil2 but geranium oil being soluble in #gj per cent4 alcohol1 such adulterations are readily detected4 ,add to #e cubic centimeters of #gj per cent4 alcohol 7specific gravity #j4hij7 at #ei to #fb4e ,f41 #aj drops of the oil1 and shake4 ,if a clear solution results the oil is very likely unadulterated4 ,the so-called ,turkish geranium oil is frequently found mixed with cocoanut oil4 ,to detect this1 place the oil in a test-tube in ice or a cold mixture for several hours1 whereby the cocoanut oil separates as a white substance4 ,adulterations of upward to #bj per cent4 are said to frequently occur4 ,reliable tests to detect an adulteration of the better qualities of geranium oil with those of a lower grade do not exist1 the odor being the only guide4 ,jasmine oil or oil of jessamine1 from the flowers of ,jasminium officinale1 ,l41 and ,j4 grandiflorum4--,the oil is exclusively obtained by the absorption process1 and is the most prized by the perfumer4 ,it is1 however1 exceedingly rare on account of the enormous cost of its production4 ,the extract of jasmine1 the essence de jasmine of the ,french manufactories1 is a solution of the oil1 as obtained by extraction with lard or beef suet1 in strong spirit of wine4 ,the odor of jasmine oil is so peculiar that it is without comparison1 and as such cannot be imitated4 ,juniper oil 7oleum juniperi7 is obtained by distillation from the fruits of ,juniperus communis1 ,l41 or juniper4 ,the berries used for the purpose should be fully grown and fresh and bruised before being placed in the still4 ,unripe berries yield a smaller quantity and an oil of somewhat different properties than ripe berries4 ,the oil obtained by distillation with steam is colorless and that by ordinary distillation yellowish1 the former having a specific gravity of #j4hdj to #j4hfj and the latter of #j4hej to #j4ijj4 ,it consists mainly of terpenes4 ,by standing1 a stearoptene is separated1 which crystallizes in feathery needles from hot spirit of wine4 ,the odor and taste of juniper oil remind one at the same time of juniper berries and oil of turpentine4 ,juniper oil has a great tendency to thicken2 it becomes resinous1 acid and thickly fluid1 formic acid being formed4 ,it should be kept in well-closed bottles1 and protected from light4 ,it is frequently adulterated with oil of turpentine and juniper-wood oil4 ,it may be tested by its behavior towards alcohol1 as well as by the taste4 ,a drop of the oil rubbed up with sugar1 and shaken with #ejj grammes of water1 should not impart an acrid taste to the water4 ,juniper oil gives a clear solution with part absolute alcohol2 by a larger quantity it is rendered turbid4 ,lavender oil 7oleum lavandul47--,large quantities of this oil are distilled in ,southern ,france1 in the neighborhood of ,grasse and ,nimes1 from the flowers of lavandula officinalis1 ,chaix1 which grows wild in that region4 ,it is limpid1 colorless1 or yellowish1 has a strong odor and a pungent1 aromatic1 somewhat bitter taste4 ,with #ij per cent4 alcohol it mixes clear in every proportion1 boils at #cbj ,f41 and has a specific gravity of #j4hgf to #j4ije4 ,it turns the plane of polarization to the left4 ,the best ,french lavender oil1 distilled from pure flowers only1 is brought into commerce under the name1 ,essence de ,lavande ,montblanc4 ,it is distinguished from all other kinds1 in the preparation of which more or less stems and leaves are used1 by its extremely agreeable odor4 ,lavender is also extensively cultivated in ,mitchan and ,hitchin1 ,england1 and used for the preparation of an especially fine oil1 the odor of which surpasses even that of the best ,french product4 ,it is1 however1 comparatively expensive4 ,from the leaves and flowers of lavandula spica the spike oil is obtained by distillation4 ,it is colorless1 or yellow1 and in odor approaches rosemary oil more than lavender oil4 ,its boiling point1 like that of lavender oil1 is at #cff4h ,f41 and its specific gravity #j4if4 ,spike oil turns the plane of polarization only slightly to the left1 the deviation scarcely ever exceeding #j4h4 ,lavender oils are very sensitive to light and air1 they becoming ozonized under their influence1 and acquire an odor like turpentine4 ,hence they must be kept in well-closed vessels in a dark place4 ,oil of lavender is frequently adulterated1 chiefly with alcohol1 fat oils1 oil of turpentine1 and spike oil4 ,to test the oil1 mix a drop of it with #aj cubic centimeters of warm water1 and test the odor1 which should be pure and agreeably lavender-like4 ,the taste of the vigorously agitated water should be transiently bitter aromatic4 ,one volume of the oil should give a turbid mixture with one volume of dilute alcohol 7specific gravity #j4hie71 but a perfectly clear one with three volumes4 ,on shaking #j4e cubic centimeter of the oil with a few grains of rosaniline it remains uncolored1 but1 in the presence of even a trace of alcohol1 it acquires a red coloration4 ,by mixing in a graduated cylinder equal volumes of the oil and distilled water1 and shaking vigorously1 the oil1 after the water has settled1 shows a decrease in volume if alcohol be present4 ,the presence of fat oil can be readily recognized by bringing a drop of the oil to be tested upon filtering paper2 a grease stain is formed1 which disappears neither at the ordinary temperature nor by heating4 ,adulteration with oil of turpentine is recognized by the boiling point1 that of oil of turpentine being #cab4h ,f41 and that of oil of lavender1 as previously stated1 #cff4h ,f4 ,spike oil should mix clear with equal parts of #ij per cent4 alcohol2 the contrary would indicate adulteration with oil of turpentine4 ,for perfumery1 lavender oil is of great importance1 it being much employed by itself1 as well as mixed with other oils4 ,lemon oil 7oleum limonis7 is obtained by various processes from the rinds of lemons4 ,the best and most delicately-scented oil is obtained by the so-called sponge process in use in ,southern ,italy and ,sicily4 ,the rinds are soaked from fifteen to twenty-five minutes in water1 to which sometimes a little soda is added4 ,they are taken up singly in the right hand and the outer surface of each is firmly pressed against a large and rather hard-grained sponge held in the left hand and secured by a strap4 ,two or three sharp turns of the wrist impart what may be called a screw-pressure to the rind1 thus effectually fracturing the oil cells1 the sponge absorbing the contents4 ,the sponge is constantly held over an earthen jar and occasionally squeezed into it4 ,the fluid in the jar quickly separates into three different products--the dregs or deposit of mucilaginous and cellular matter1 some fruit juice1 and the pure oil1 which floats on the top4 ,the latter1 when bright and clear1 is passed1 by means of a small glass siphon1 into the cans of thin copper1 in which1 after sealing1 it is stored away for export4 ,the above described primitive mode of fabrication furnishes the most highly prized oils of commerce2 they are called hand-pressed oils or essences prepares a l'ponge4 ,in the same manner are obtained the oils from the sweet and bitter pomegranate1 the bergamotte1 and mandarin orange4 ,another method of expressing the oil is that of the cuelle piquer1 much used in the region about ,nice4 ,the oils obtained by this method1 which are also of a very fine quality1 are marked essence l'cuelle or au zeste4 ,the apparatus consists of a round shallow pan of copper or brass1 having a receptacle for the oil at its lowest part and a lip on one side for pouring1 and studded on its concavity by strong blunt spikes4 ,the workman takes the fruit and rolls it gently but quickly around the inside of the cuelle2 the spikes prick the oil sacs1 whereupon the oil1 running down the spikes and the concavity of the pan1 collects in the reservoir at the lowest part4 ,the oil is filtered and then poured into clean glass bottles1 in which the impurities are allowed to settle4 ,in ,reggio1 where especially much bergamot oil is manufactured1 sheet-metal bowl-like vessels1 studded inside with sharp ribs1 are used4 ,six to eight fruits are placed in the vessel4 ,a movable lid closes the vessel1 so that there is just enough space for the fruits between the lid and the bottom of the vessel4 ,if now the lid be revolved by hand-or steam-power1 the rinds of the fruit are torn apart1 and the oil together with the juice runs through the sieve-bottom of the apparatus into a cylindrical vessel where it clarifies4 ,the third method of obtaining the oil is by expression4 ,the grated rind is placed in hair mats1 and subjected to powerful pressure by means of a screw or lever press4 ,the process of distillation is carried on as follows3 ,the peels1 which should be from select fruit1 are sprinkled with powdered salt1 and a few hours afterwards sufficient water to moisten them is poured over them4 ,a day or two afterwards more water is added1 and the whole is distilled until either no more oil separates or the steam1 at first purely fragrant1 begins to acquire a rank and rather unpleasant smell4 ,the oil obtained by distillation is inferior to the others4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bj4 ,lately a combination of the cuelle and distilling processes has been introduced by ,domenico ,monfalcone1 which has given excellent results4 ,it is shown in ,fig4 #bj4 ,f ,f is a hollow cylinder1 of sheet-iron1 the interior surface of which is studded with a large number of small metallic knife-points4 ,this cylinder revolves on two axles attached to it at diagonally opposite points4 ,the cylinder having been half-charged with lemons1 together with a small quantity of water1 is set in motion by aid of the shafting and pulleys driven by the small steam engine4 ,the fruits are thereby made to come in contact with the metallic lancets1 and their whole surface gradually becomes punctured sufficiently to rupture the cells containing the volatile oil1 which escapes4 ,the cylinder ,f ,f has double walls1 the space between them being intended for the circulation of a current of steam1 which is admitted to heat the water and to facilitate the extraction of the oil1 while at the same time the vapors are rarefied or aspirated by the vacuum pump ,l4 ,the axles of the cylinder on both sides are hollow2 that on the side looking towards the engine is imbedded in such a manner that steam from the boiler ,d may be admitted at will1 either into the double walls of the cylinder1 or into the interior of the cylinder itself1 while the hollow passage in the other axle communicates with a condensing worm1 ,g1 the outlet of which1 ,h1 descends into a cylindrical vessel1 ,i1 intended to receive the condensed products1 consisting of water and volatile oil4 ,when the apparatus is first set in motion the pump ,l begins to produce a vacuum during the first revolutions of the cylinder4 ,steam being now cautiously admitted into the double walls of the cylinder1 the water is raised to boiling at a comparatively low temperature1 and the vapors charged with the volatile oil pass over into the receptacle1 where they separate into two layers4 ,the product obtained by this process is claimed to be equal in quality to that obtained by mechanical means1 and the yield nearly double4 ,during the months of ,november to ,march the average yield from #ajjj lemons in the factories of ,palermo is #cbj grammes of oil2 in those of ,messina1 where a better quality of fruit is employed1 the yield is about #djj grammes4 ,the same number of lemons yield about #aj gallons of juice1 the collection of which is1 of course1 a necessary accompaniment of the manufacture of volatile oil4 ,pure oil of lemons is almost colorless and has the odor of the fruit4 ,its specific gravity varies between #j4hgeb and #j4hghe2 it boils at #bih4d ,f41 and is soluble in all proportions in absolute alcohol and glacial acetic acid4 ,it contains1 according to ,g4 ,bouchardat and ,j4 ,lafont1 besides a little cymene1 several hydrocarbons1 the most abundant of which is citrene1 ,c#aj;,h#af1 boiling near #ceb4e ,f41 having a rotatory power exceeding #aje1 and yielding a solid optically inactive dihydrochloride4 ,oil of lemons is frequently adulterated with oil of turpentine4 ,this may be detected1 according to ,g4 ,heppe1 by slowly heating the oil in a dry test-tube with a small piece of copper butyrate to about #cch ,f41 taking care that the temperature does not exceed #cef;,f4 ,the copper salt will dissolve in pure oil of lemons with a green color1 while in the presence of oil of turpentine a yellow turbid mixture is obtained1 reddish-yellow cuprous oxide being separated4 ,this test is also applicable to oils of bergamot and of orange-peel4 ,lilac oil is obtained from the flowers of ,syringa vulgaris1 the lilac1 by aqueous distillation and subsequent extraction with benzine4 ,it is also frequently prepared by the absorption process4 ,it is used for the most expensive perfumes1 and is seldom found in commerce4 ,limes1 oil of 7oleum limett71 is derived from the rind of the fruit of ,citrus limetta1 or lime4 ,the oil is obtained in the same manner as oil of lemons1 which it somewhat resembles4 ,its mean specific gravity is #j4hgcd at #hd ,f4 ,the oil made by the cuelle process is of a decidedly yellow color1 varying in intensity1 being darker in the fresh product4 ,the difference in flavor and aroma is so marked as scarcely to require any other means of distinguishing the oil made by the cuelle process from that obtained by distillation1 the first having a decided fragrant lemon smell1 whilst the distilled oil is very inferior1 frequently possessing little more than the smell of turpentine4 ,large quantities of oil of limes are manufactured in ,dominica1 but most of the oil exported from there is of an inferior quality and was formerly solely used for adulterating oil of lemons4 ,lately it has also been employed for scenting soaps and in the manufacture of the common essences and perfumes4 ,licari oil1 linalo oil1 is obtained1 partially in ,mexico and partially in ,cayenne1 from the wood of the white cedar 7bois de rose femelle71 ,licari canali4 ,it is limpid1 has an agreeable odor1 reminding one of roses1 and does not become solid at #d ,f4 ,its specific gravity is #j4hfh at #ei ,f41 and it boils at #chh4d ,f4 ,marjoram oils4--,by distilling the leaves of ,origanum marjorana1 ,l41 the marjoram oil 7oleum marjoran7 is obtained4 ,it is yellowish or green-yellowish1 but becomes reddish-brown by age4 ,if badly kept it finally becomes thickly-fluid and sticky1 sometimes depositing a reddish stearoptene4 ,the odor of marjoram oil is less agreeable than that of the plant1 and the taste peculiar1 bitter1 cooling4 ,the oil dissolves readily in #ij per cent4 alcohol1 and when mixed with equal parts of it yields a clear solution4 ,its specific gravity is #j4hi to #j4ia4 ,it should be kept in entirely filled1 well-closed bottles in a shady place4 ,on coming in contact with air1 it absorbs oxygen with avidity and forms a white1 odorless1 crystalline mass4 ,from ,origanum vulgare1 ,l41 the ordinary marjoram oil 7oleum origani vulgaris7 is obtained4 ,it is yellowish or reddish1 limpid1 of specific gravity #j4ij to #j4ie1 and has a camphor-like odor4 ,spanish marjoram 7oleum origani cretici7 is obtained by distillation from the flowering plants of several varieties of marjoram 7,or4 creticum1 ,or4 hirtum1 ,or4 smyrnum74 ,it is brought into commerce from ,trieste1 ,smyrna1 ,salonica1 and other ,mediterranean seaports4 ,the oil exported from ,france appears to be derived from another variety of marjoram2 at least it shows a different behavior and approaches more the ordinary marjoram oil4 ,the genuine oil is thickly-fluid1 generally yellow-brown2 of specific gravity ,o4#ie to ,o4#ig2 has a strong1 aromatic odor1 and produces upon the tongue a sharp continued burning4 ,it dissolves in equal parts of #ij per cent4 alcohol4 ,it is chiefly adulterated with copaiba oil1 the presence of which can be recognized by the oil dissolving with greater difficulty4 ,the marjoram oils are but little used for perfuming purposes4 ,mignonette oil 7oleum rsd74 ,the well-known mignonette1 ,rsda odoratissima1 yields a thick yellowish oil1 either by maceration and absorption1 or by extraction with ether or petroleum-ether4 ,it has a penetrating1 disagreeable odor1 which can only be rendered agreeable by greatly diluting the oil4 ,in gathering the flowers care must be had not to mix them with leaves1 as this spoils the odor of the oil4 ,myrrh oil 7oleum myrth7 is obtained from the leaves of ,myrtus communis1 ,l4 ,it is yellowish1 dextrorotatory1 of specific gravity #j4iaj at #fj4h ,f41 and commences to boil at #cbj ,f4 ,as its principal constituents1 ,jahns has established a terpene 7,c#aj;,h#af71 boiling at from #caf4d to #cbj ,f41 and turning the plane of polarization to the right1 and cineol 7,c#aj;,h#af,o71 which boils at #cdh4h ,f4 ,besides these principal constituents there seems to be present a very small quantity of a camphor1 corresponding very likely to the formula ,c#aj;,h#af,o4 ,myrtol1 which was formerly supposed to exist in myrtle oil1 has been found to be a mixture of the dextrorotatory terpene and of cineol4 ,nutmeg oils4--,from mace1 the fresh aril of the nutmeg 7,myristica fragrans1 ,houtt1 natural order ,myristicace71 mace oil 7oleum macidis71 is obtained by distillation4 ,it is straw-yellow or yellowish1 later on yellow-reddish1 clear1 somewhat thickly-fluid1 of a strong odor resembling that of mace1 and a taste at first mild1 but later on pungent and aromatic4 ,it mixes clear in every proportion with absolute alcohol1 but of #ij per cent4 alcohol1 #e to #f volumes are required for a clear solution4 ,the specific gravity of the oil varies from #j4hg to #j4ib4 ,with iodine it detonates1 vapors being emitted4 ,the oil obtained from dried mace has a less agreeable odor4 ,the oil is frequently adulterated with tincture of nutmeg prepared with absolute alcohol4 ,such an adulteration1 as well as any content of alcohol1 is recognized by shaking #j4e cubic centimeter of the oil with a grain of rosaniline4 ,in the presence of alcohol the oil acquires a red coloration1 while pure oil remains uncolored4 ,from the nutmegs1 the seed of ,myristica fragrans1 freed from the seed-coat and aril1 a volatile oil 7oleum nucist thereum7 is also obtained by distillation4 ,it is generally yellowish1 seldom colorless1 somewhat thickly-fluid and has the odor and taste of nutmegs4 ,it is readily soluble in alcohol and ether and of specific gravity1 #j4ic to #j4ie4 ,it consists of two oils1 one specifically lighter and fluid1 and the other heavy and crystalline4 ,on standing it deposits a stearoptene1 called myristicin4 ,the nutmeg oils are but seldom used in perfumery4 ,opopanax oil is obtained from opopanax4#g ,it is of gold-yellow color and an agreeable balsamic odor reminding one somewhat of myrrh4 ,its specific gravity is #j4ijaf1 and it boils between #cib and #egb ,f4 #g ,see later on under ,balsams and ,resins4 ,on account of its strength1 the oil must be very carefully handled in perfuming1 but if used in the correct proportion it is very advantageous4 ,orange-peel oil1 also called ,portugal oil or essence of ,portugal1 is obtained in ,italy from the fresh peels of the orange1 the fruit of ,citrus vulgaris1 ,risso4 ,it is prepared in a manner similar to that of oil of lemons 7which see74 ,in commerce a distinction is made between the ,messina oil1 which is of inferior quality1 and the ,calabria oil1 which is of a better quality4 ,the ,messina oil has a yellow color1 frequently not much darker than that of oil of lemons1 while the color of ,calabria oil is dark yellow1 nearly brown4 ,the oil prepared from the peels of the bitter orange 7,citrus bigaradia1 ,duhamel71 is of the same color as the sweet ,messina oil4 ,it is more used in the preparation of liqueurs than for perfuming4 ,orange-peel oils are limpid and have a specific gravity of #j4hai to #j4i4 ,one part of orange-peel oil should1 according to its age1 dissolve clear in #e to #aj parts of #ij per cent4 alcohol4 ,very similar to orange-peel oil1 though differing somewhat in odor1 is the mandarin oil obtained from the fresh peels of the mandarin orange1 the fruit of ,citrus sinensis4 ,it is brought into commerce from ,reggio and is said to form a constituent of the genuine ess-bouquet4 ,it has a specific gravity of #j4heb at #ej ,f4 and is dextrorotatory4 ,while from the peels the volatile oil is but seldom obtained by distillation1 this process is exclusively used for gaining volatile oils from the flowers1 leaves1 and young branches4 ,in this connection two kinds of volatile oil have chiefly to be considered1 viz3 orange-flower oil and petit-grain oil4 ,orange-flower oil or neroli oil 7oleum florum aurantii2 ol4 neroli2 ol4 naph7 is obtained by distillation from the flowers of the bitter orange2 while the flowers of the sweet orange yield the so-called neroli-,portugal oil1 which is far inferior to the other4 ,on the ,french ,riviera1 the orange is especially cultivated for obtaining blossoms and leaves for distilling purposes4 ,at ,cannes1 ,le ,cannet1 ,golfe-,juan1 ,vallauris1 ,biot1 ,vence1 ,le ,bar1 ,antibes1 ,le ,cap1 ,nice1 and ,mentone1 the bitter orange1 whose flowers are very numerous and especially suitable for perfumery1 is chiefly cultivated4 ,cannes and ,le ,cannet alone possess #aej1jjj to #afj1jjj such trees1 and ,golfe-,juan and ,vallauris #bjj1jjj4 ,the flowers harvested in ,golfe-,juan amount to about #gjj1jjj lbs41 in ,le ,cannet to about #ccj1jjj lbs41 at ,cannes to about #acj1jjj lbs41 and in ,antibes1 ,mentone1 and ,nice to about #bfj1jjj lbs4 ,one orange tree yields1 according to its age1 from #b to #ag lbs4 of flowers4 ,the distillation of neroli oil has also been lately commenced in ,sicily and ,calabria1 but as far as quality is concerned1 the oil thus far brought into commerce cannot compete with the ,french oil4 ,oil of orange flowers is at first nearly colorless or straw-yellow1 but becomes reddish-yellow when kept for some time4 ,in a clear glass it opalizes bluish4 ,it is limpid and has a slightly bitter taste and a strong but very delicious odor4 ,its specific gravity varies between #j4he and #j4ij4 ,it is but sparingly soluble in water1 but imparts to the latter an agreeable odor2 the solution is colored red by sulphuric acid4 ,with #a to #b parts of #ij per cent4 alcohol1 the oil gives a clear solution which becomes turbid by a further addition of alcohol and1 after standing quietly1 a flaky separation of stearoptene is observed4 ,if not carefully kept the oil becomes darker and even acquires a disagreeable odor4 ,by rectification with water oil thus spoiled can be restored4 ,with sodium the oil does not evolve hydrogen gas2 it detonates with iodine4 ,of the various oils of orange blossoms occurring in commerce ,neroli petale is the best4 ,neroli oil being a very expensive oil is exposed to many adulterations4 ,mierzinski even asserts that no genuine unadulterated neroli oil occurs in commerce1 because it is a well-known fact that what is sold as genuine1 pure neroli oil1 consists on an average of #d_/h genuine neroli oil1 #a_/h oil of bergamot1 and #c_/h petit-grain oil4 ,furthermore1 it is no secret that besides the flowers of all kinds of ,aurantiace1 unripe fruits or fresh peels of ripe fruits and even young shoots of the branches and leaves are subjected to distillation4 ,this assertion perhaps goes too far1 but nevertheless it is advisable to procure the oil only from a thoroughly reliable firm4 ,a very frequent adulteration consists in an addition of petit-grain oil4 ,such an addition can only be recognized by the taste and odor4 ,for this purpose add to #c drops of oil in a small bottle #aj grammes of distilled water1 and1 after shaking vigorously1 test as to the odor and taste4 ,according to ,chevalier1 pour #a or #b drops of the oil upon sugar and stir the latter in water2 if the oil is not genuine the water acquires a bitter taste4 ,hager recommends the following test3 ,mix #c drops of the oil in a test-tube with #dj to #ej drops of alcohol2 add1 after complete solution1 about the volume of the solution of concentrated sulphuric acid1 and effect mixture by careful shaking4 ,pure oil gives a turbid1 reddish1 dark-brown mixture 7with old oil1 dark brown72 almost all other oils1 which may be substituted1 give paler-colored 7reddish1 red1 or ocher-color7 mixtures2 or1 in case the genuine oil is adulterated with non-genuine1 the mixture exhibits a considerably less dark-color4 ,when this test has been several times executed with genuine oil1 no room for doubt is left4 ,if the mixture be diluted with four times its volume of water1 it becomes yellowish and milky4 ,the odor of orange flowers is1 according to ,soubeiran1 due to two volatile oils1 of which the one having the most delicious odor is soluble in water4 ,the other volatile oil1 of which the neroli oil of commerce chiefly consists1 is sparingly soluble in water1 and does not possess such a delicious odor4 ,this is the reason why good orange-flower water cannot be prepared by saturating water with neroli oil4 ,the genuine orange-flower water is obtained as a by-product in distilling the oil4 ,neroli oil is much used for the finer perfumes1 it being especially a necessary constituent of eau de ,cologne4 ,it has to be carefully protected from air and light4 ,for perfuming purposes it is only sufficiently ripe after having been stored for at least one year4 ,if1 however1 it becomes too old1 it inclines towards rancidity1 which may be prevented by compounding it with an equal volume of fine spirit4 ,portugal oil being of inferior quality can only be used for lower grade products4 ,petit grain oil 7oleum petit grain7 is obtained by distillation from the leaves1 young shoots and unripe fruits of different ,aurantiace4 ,the best oil is that distilled from the leaves of the bitter orange1 it possessing an odor similar to that of neroli oil1 but1 of course1 not so fine4 ,southern ,france was formerly the chief place for the production of this oil1 but considerable quantities of it are now manufactured in ,paraguay1 and the oil at present brought from there into commerce being of quite a good quality and considerably cheaper than the ,french oil1 has almost entirely supplanted the latter4 ,orris root1 oil of 7oleum iridis71 is obtained by distillation with steam from the rhizomes of ,iris florentina1 which is cultivated in ,southern ,france1 ,dalmatia1 and other regions4 ,it has a yellow color and1 at an ordinary temperature1 a quite solid consistency like butter or wax1 so that it can be rendered fluid only by heating4 ,it consists chiefly of a rigid odorless body to which the liquid odoriferous oil adheres4 ,the solid portion was formerly designated orris-stearoptene2 according to ,flueckiger it is1 however1 myristic acid4 ,oil of orris root is one of the oils which keep for years without suffering injury4 ,it is recommended to keep it in stock in alcoholic solution so that the myristic acid contained in it may to a certain degree be etherized1 and cannot injuriously affect the odoriferous principle4 ,oil of orris root serves as a substitute and for strengthening the natural odor of violets4 ,it can1 however1 be employed only for very fine expensive perfumery since1 on account of the very slight yield from the root 7from #ajjj parts to part of oil71 its price is very high1 generally exceeding that of rose oil4 ,an admixture of other volatile oils of less value would render the oil fluid at the ordinary temperature4 ,patchouli oil4--,by the name of patchouli are known1 according to ,l4 ,wray1 ,jr41 the leaves of ,pogostemon patchouli1 ,pellet1 natural order ,labiat1 indigenous to the ,east ,indies1 and known and used for centuries in the various regions of ,china1 ,assam1 and the ,malayan ,islands4 ,most of the patchouli comes from the ,east ,indies4 ,before exportation it is sorted into three qualities3 #a4 ,selected1 consisting of leaves only4 #b4 ,mixed1 leaves with slight peduncles and few stems4 #c4 ,stalky leaves4 ,the best quality occurs seldom in commerce since the picking of the leaves does not cover the expense4 ,according to ,wray1 the leaves are intentionally mixed with those of the ruku 7ocimum basilicum1 ,l471 an herb indigenous to the ,malayan ,islands4 ,the leaves of the latter are broader than those of pogostemon patchouli1 and the stalks thinner and round4 ,seed-capsules are also frequently found among the leaves1 though patchouli seldom flowers and bears seeds4 ,in ,europe1 patchouli has been an article of commerce since #ahda4 ,in the ,orient it is highly esteemed as a perfume4 ,the ,arabs even ascribe remedial properties to it1 and it is customary with them to fill their pillows with the leaves to protect them from infection and prolong their lives4 ,the peculiar1 penetrating1 though not exactly agreeable1 odor of patchouli leaves1 is due to a volatile oil1 of which they contain #a4e to #b per cent4 ,in the ,orient this oil has for many years been obtained by distillation4 ,in the ,penang market two kinds of oil1 one green and the other gold-brown1 are distinguished4 ,though both are sold at the same price1 there is a greater demand for the green oil4 ,according to the statements of the distillers1 the brown oil is derived from the leaves of old plants and the green oil from the leaves of young plants4 ,it would seem1 however1 that the color is dependent on the soil upon which the plants are grown1 as well as upon atmospheric influences4 ,when ruku is distilled with patchouli leaves1 the oil is yellow and thickly-fluid4 ,in ,germany1 the oil is now distilled from imported leaves4 ,it is thickly-fluid1 of a brown color1 and1 in an undiluted state1 possesses a disagreeable1 almost musty odor4 ,however1 when sufficiently diluted and suitably mixed with other volatile oils1 the odor is far more agreeable1 and for this reason it has for some time played an important part in the manufacture of perfumery4 ,it has the advantage of being very yielding and lasting1 but1 on the other hand1 possesses the disadvantage of not combining with other perfumes1 so that its odor is always perceptible4 ,it should always be used in very small quantities or much diluted4 ,in commerce ,penang oil and ,french oil are distinguished1 the first having a specific gravity of #j4iei and the latter of #a4jab4 ,when kept for any length of time the oil deposits patchouli-camphor 7,c#ae;,h#bh,o7 in prismatic crystals of #a4jde specific gravity and melting at #abg to #abi ,f4 ,these crystals have a peculiar1 very lasting odor4 ,patchouli oil is soluble in equal parts of #ij per cent4 alcohol1 the contrary indicating that it is not pure4 ,it is chiefly adulterated with cedar oil4 ,peppermint oil4--,the ,mentha family furnishes commerce with three oils differing essentially from each other--oil of curled mint1 peppermint oil1 and poley oil4 ,oil of curled mint 7oleum menth crisp7 is separated by distillation with water from the leaves of ,mentha crispa1 ,linn4 ,it is limpid1 yellowish1 sometimes greenish2 in time it becomes darker and more thickly-fluid4 ,its specific gravity varies between #j4hij and #j4ife4 ,it has a strong odor of curled mint and a pungent1 somewhat cooling1 slightly bitterish taste4 ,it is soluble in all proportions in #ij per cent4 alcohol4 ,in commerce a distinction is made between ,german and ,american oil of curled mint1 the latter generally containing oil of turpentine and oil of sassafras4 ,odor1 taste1 and the alcohol test suffice for the determination of the quality of the oil4 ,oil of curled mint contains a terpene1 ,c#aj;,h#af1 and a body isomeric with carvol1 the carvol of curled mint1 ,c#aj;,h#ad,o4 ,its specific gravity1 boiling point and chemical properties are the same as those of the carvol of caraway oil1 but it differs from it by its odor and turning the plane of polarization to the opposite direction4 ,in conjunction with other volatile oils1 oil of curley mint is sometimes used for perfuming soaps4 ,peppermint oil 7oleum menth piperit7 is obtained from the fresh flowering peppermint1 ,mentha piperita1 natural order ,labiat4 ,in commerce1 ,german1 ,english1 ,american and ,japanese peppermint oils are distinguished4 ,as regards fineness1 the ,german oil is inferior to the ,english and better kinds of ,american oils1 but superior to the ,japanese4 ,the best and most expensive oil is the ,english so-called ,mitcham oil of peppermint1 which dissolves in #ej parts of #ej per cent4 spirit of wine and possesses a fine1 pure taste1 it being for this reason preferred by distillers for the fabrication of liqueurs4 ,for perfuming purposes1 however1 the ,american as well as the ,german oils are very suitable4 ,of ,american oils that of ,h4 ,g4 ,hotchkiss1 ,l4 ,b4 ,hotchkiss1 ,hale ,parshall1 and ,fritzsche ,bros4 enjoy a high reputation4 ,the ,japanese oil is distinguished from the rest by a peculiar train-oil-like odor and taste1 and is in but little demand4 ,crude oil of peppermint is yellowish to greenish and contains much mucus2 it has therefore to be subjected to another distillation with water4 ,the rectified oil is clear as water1 limpid1 of a strong but pleasant odor and a specific gravity of #j4ijj to #j4ijb4 ,old oil thickens and then shows an acid reaction4 ,the greater portion of the oil congeals at the freezing point of water2 many kinds1 however1 requiring but slight cooling in order to become solid4 ,the solid portion of the oil1 ,menthol1 7,c#aj;,h#ab1;,h#b,o7 is a colorless1 finely crystallized body with an intense odor of peppermint4 ,it melts at #ajg4f ,f41 is quite fluid at an ordinary temperature and boils at #dac4f ,f4 ,menthol is found in all oils of peppermint most abundantly in the ,japanese oil1 which contains from #ej to #ee per cent4 of it4 ,mitcham oil is also very rich in menthol1 it containing from #dj to #de per cent41 while the ,american oil contains only from #bj to #be per cent4 ,american1 ,german and ,english oils of peppermint may be distinguished as follows3 ,by adding to #e or #f drops of the oil1 #be to #cj drops of pure white concentrated sulphuric acid1 ,american oil of peppermint becomes heated and emits vapors1 the mixture acquiring a dark brownish red coloration4 ,after mixing with #h to #aj cubic centimeters of #ij per cent4 alcohol1 the fluid becomes turbid1 pale yellowish brown1 or reddish brown1 and on boiling clear pale brown4 ,when mixed with sulphuric acid1 ,german oil of peppermint becomes heated without emitting vapors1 becomes yellowish red1 not very dark1 and turbid4 ,after diluting with alcohol1 the fluid becomes turbid and yellowish red1 and on boiling somewhat more transparent and currant-red4 ,english oil of peppermint treated in the same manner as the others with sulphuric acid becomes very slightly heated without any emission of vapor4 ,after diluting with alcohol1 it becomes clear and raspberry red4 ,as adulterants of peppermint oil are mentioned3 fat oils1 alcohol1 oil of turpentine1 copaiba oil1 mustard oil1 and ginger oil4 ,the most frequent adulteration is an admixture of oil of turpentine4 ,it is recognized by the oil not dissolving clear in equal parts of #ij per cent4 alcohol1 as is the case with the pure product4 ,to detect the presence of copaiba oil1 mix #e drops of the oil to be tested with #ae to #bj drops of fuming nitric acid1 shake and allow it to stand for #a to #b hours4 ,after this time the oily portion should be neither entirely nor partially congealed1 but remain fluid4 ,to detect traces of mustard oil1 bring #aj drops of the oil into a wide reagent glass1 then add #c to #d cubic centimeters of absolute alcohol1 #b to #c drops of silver nitrate solution and #ab to #ae drops of ammonia4 ,the mixture is clear and colorless1 and remains so on heating to boiling4 ,in the presence of mustard oil turbidity and blackening take place in consequence of the formation of silver sulphide4 ,after boiling1 allow the fluid to stand quietly for #b or #c hours4 ,if it then shows a grayish turbidity1 the oil is adulterated with another volatile oil4 ,instead of pure ,american oil of peppermint1 a product compounded with camphor oil1 and mostly freed from menthol1 is said frequently to occur in commerce4 ,according to ,e4 ,c4 ,federer1 this is recognized by dissolving one volume of oil of peppermint in #b volumes of #id per cent4 alcohol1 adding water and shaking4 ,pure peppermint oil is then separated with a certain portion of the alcohol4 ,for example1 mix #aj cubic centimeters of oil of peppermint in a graduated cylinder of #de to #ej cubic centimeters' capacity with #bj cubic centimeters of #id per cent4 alcohol1 then add #aj cubic centimeters of water of #ej ,f4 and shake4 ,after allowing the mixture to stand quietly1 two layers are formed1 the upper one of which1 if the oil is pure1 will amount to #ad cubic centimeters1 but only to #ab4e cubic centimeters if the oil is freed from menthol and compounded with camphor oil4 ,a larger or smaller addition of water to the alcoholic mixture is without influence upon the height of the upper layer separated4 ,in perfumery peppermint oil serves chiefly for aromatizing dentifrices1 etc4 ,it should be kept in well-closed bottles in a shady place2 an addition of #j4e per cent4 of alcohol helps to preserve the oil for a long time4 ,poley oil 7oleum menth pulegii74--,in ,southern ,france and ,spain this oil is obtained by distillation from the leaves of ,mentha pulegium4 ,it has an odor resembling that of peppermint1 is at first colorless1 but soon becomes yellow1 has a specific gravity of #j4ibg1 boils at #cfa4d to #cgj4d ,f41 and contains neither menthol nor carvol4 ,it is used for perfuming herb soaps4 ,pimento oil1 or oil of allspice 7oleum pimenta7 from the bruised fruit of ,eugenia pimenta1 allspice1 natural order ,myrtace4 ,the oil is pale yellow1 becoming reddish-brown by age2 it has a very pungent taste and intense odor1 very much resembling that of cloves4 ,it is heavier than water1 its specific gravity being from #a4jba to #a4jcg4 ,it mixes with glacial acetic acid in all proportions4 ,when treated with nitric acid1 pure pimento oil assumes a red color1 with strong effervescence4 ,rose oil or attar of roses 7oleum ros7 comes almost exclusively from ,bulgaria1 where it is obtained by distillation with water from the flowers of ,rosa damascena4 ,the small quantities of an excellent quality of rose oil prepared in ,southern ,france from ,rosa provincialis remain in the country of their production and do not even cover the local demand4 ,the small productions of ,persia and ,india need also not be taken into consideration4 ,in ,tunis1 where formerly much rose water was prepared from ,rosa canina and also rose oil of a very fine quality1 the distillation of roses has1 according to ,christo ,christoff1 been entirely abandoned1 geranium oil only being now produced4 ,in the summer of #ahhd1 ,schimmel ,co41 of ,leipzic1 ,germany1 made the experiment to obtain oil on a large scale from indigenous roses4 ,the result was very satisfactory1 #bjjj lbs4 of rose leaves yielding about #a lb4 of oil1 the extraordinarily agreeable odor of which was so superior to that of the ,turkish oil1 that notwithstanding the high price--double that of ,turkish oil--it found ready purchasers4 ,at the ordinary temperature the ,leipzic oil is solid1 it only melting at #hi4f ,f4 ,in ,bulgaria1 ,kazanlik1 in the ,tundscha ,valley1 is the centre of the entire industry and the principal market4 ,rose oil is there called gul-jag 7gul1 the rose1 and jag1 oil74 ,the annual production of ,kazanlik and neighboring places1 amounting #ej years ago to from #dej to #fej lbs41 has within a few years risen to the enormous figure of #eejj lbs4 ,in ,kazanlik two varieties of roses1 known as the white rose and red rose1 are cultivated2 the former being ,rosa alba1 ,l41 and the latter ,rosa damascena1 ,miller4 ,by distillation the white rose yields an oil of little perfume1 but rich in stearoptene4 ,on account of its slight odor1 the white rose is seldom distilled by itself1 but occasionally white and red roses are mixed in order to obtain an oil rich in stearoptene1 so that a fraudulent admixture of a larger quantity of geranium oil may be effected without great danger of detection4 ,the large plantations consist only of bushes of red roses4 ,but on the edges of the field a strip1 a few feet wide1 is planted with white roses1 so that only flowers of little commercial value may be plucked by passers-by4 ,the flowers are gathered before sunrise1 and1 if possible1 the same day subjected to distillation4 ,the latter is effected in a very crude apparatus1 over a direct fire4 ,the flowers are distilled with double their weight of water1 one-half of which is drawn off4 ,the product of several operations thus obtained is combined and again distilled1 when1 however1 only one-sixth is drawn off4 ,this distillate is allowed to stand for one or two days in a place warmer than #ei ,f41 when the oil floating on the top is skimmed off4 ,it may be supposed that on an average #ffjj lbs4 of roses are required to obtain #b4b lbs4 of oil1 and that these #ffjj lbs4 of roses correspond to an area of #a hectare 7#b4dga acres7 planted with rose bushes4 ,pure1 carefully-distilled rose oil is at first colorless1 but soon turns yellowish4#h ,its specific gravity is between #j4hcj and #j4hij4 ,it consists of a liquid oil and a stearoptene1 the content of the latter varying very much4 ,it is a pure hydrocarbon1 odorless1 of specific gravity1 #j4hdj to #j4hfj1 and distils at #egb ,f4 ,hence it is lighter than the eloptene on which alone the odor of the rose oil is dependent4 ,rose oil generally congeals between #ej and #fj ,f41 though sometimes at a higher or lower degree1 according to its content of stearoptene4 ,while some oils require the cold of winter for congealing1 others are in the heat of summer either entirely solid1 or form a fluid filled with many crystals4 ,the odor of rose oil is peculiarly honey-like1 and too intense to be agreeable1 its entire deliciousness being only developed by strong dilution1 be it by dissolving in water or alcohol1 or by distribution upon large quantities of rigid bodies1 fats1 soaps1 etc4 ,in alcohol it dissolves with greater difficulty than all other volatile oils1 #a part of it requiring for solution #adj to #afj parts of alcohol of #j4hae specific gravity4 #h ,this1 however1 applies only to ,bulgarian oil2 ,french and ,saxon rose oils have a greenish color4 ,the larger or smaller content of stearoptene in rose oil seems to be dependent on climatic conditions1 it having been remarked that the quantity is the greater the lower the temperature of the region4 ,the oil from the coldest and highest regions of the ,balkan is richer in stearoptene than that from the lower and warmer regions4 ,the genuineness of rose oil is generally judged by its odor1 its capacity of congealing1 and the manner of its crystallization4 ,the odor is by all means the most reliable criterion1 but requires much experience1 and especially reliable pure standard samples for comparison4 ,the capacity of congealing at certain conditions of temperature1 is1 to be sure1 also a requirement of genuine rose oil1 but1 as previously mentioned1 this property varies very much1 and is subject to different influences1 so that a fixed standard at which pure rose oil must congeal cannot be established4 ,attention must1 however1 be called to the fact that the quality of a rose oil does by no means rise with its greater capacity to congeal1 since only the liquid oxygenated portion possesses odor4 ,schimmel ,co4 bring at present into commerce a liquid rose oil freed from stearoptene which can be highly recommended for finer alcoholic perfumes4 ,it remains fluid at #cb ,f41 but in a cold mixture congeals to a gelatinous mass1 and hence is not absolutely free from stearoptene4 ,it has an extremely fine and powerful odor1 and when dissolved in alcohol does not give the disagreeable crystalline separations of the ordinary rose oil1 which produce a disturbing effect1 especially in the preparation of extracts4 ,for the insulation and determination of the stearoptene in rose oil1 ,schimmel ,co4 proceed as follows3 ,heat #ej grammes of oil together with #ejj grammes of #ge per cent4 alcohol to from #aeh to #agf ,f4 ,in cooling1 the stearoptene separates nearly quantitatively4 ,separate it from the fluid1 treat it again in the same manner with #bjj grammes of #ge per cent4 alcohol1 and repeat the operation until the stearoptene is entirely free from odor4 ,two treatments of the crude stearoptene are generally sufficient4 ,in this manner ,schimmel ,co4 obtained from #ahhg ,german rose oil #cb per cent4 stearoptene1 from #ahhh ,german rose oil #cd per cent41 from #ahhg ,turkish rose oil #ab to #ac per cent41 and from #ahhh ,turkish rose oil #ad per cent4 ,it is evident that such a valuable product as rose oil is much subjected to adulteration1 it being even said that oils containing scarcely #aj per cent4 of genuine rose oil occur in the market4 ,the chief adulterant used by the ,bulgarians is the so-called geranium oil1 but actually ginger-grass oil derived from ,india1 which is brought by way of ,arabia to ,constantinople1 and prepared for the purpose of adulterating rose oil by treatment with lemon juice and bleaching in the sun4 ,the sophistication is generally effected by sprinkling the ginger-grass oil thus prepared upon the rose leaves before distilling4 ,the general characters of this oil are so similar to those of rose oil that detection1 when the adulteration is kept within certain limits1 is very difficult1 so that during the distilling time large buyers and exporters of rose oil are forced to pay1 besides their other officers in ,kazanlik1 confidential native agents who constantly move around in the distilling regions and report where distillation has been carried on honestly1 and where the ginger-grass oil bottle has been seen4 ,however1 the prepared ginger-grass oil is frequently not even distilled with the rose leaves1 but simply mixed with the finished rose oil4 ,whether a rose oil is free from geranium or ginger-grass oil is tested in ,bulgaria1 according to ,christo ,christoff1 by the freezing method1 which is1 however1 unreliable4 ,it is based upon the fact that an addition of geranium oil reduces the congealing point of rose oil4 ,pure ,bulgarian rose oil congeals at from #fc4e to #fh ,f42 by the addition of geranium oil1 the same oil congeals at #fa4be1 #ei1 #ef4ge1 or at a still lower temperature1 according to the quantity added4 ,the buyer when purchasing oil carries with him two basins1 one containing hot and the other cold water1 which he mixes in order to obtain a fixed temperature1 the operation being controlled by a ,raumur thermometer4 ,in the water thus prepared he completely submerges a #bj gramme flask containing #ae grammes of the oil to be tested4 ,in three minutes1 needle-like crystals of the separating stearoptene must appear1 and in ten minutes crystallization must be complete4 ,according to the congealing point thus established1 the product is paid for4 ,oil congealing below #ei ,f4 being evidently adulterated is rejected and bargained for at a special price4 ,many attempts have been made to fraudulently make this congelation appear within the limits of temperature permitted1 paraffine which dissolves well in rose oil being formerly frequently added4 ,in such case the oil may congeal at from #fe4ge to #fh ,f41 but the crystals are opaque1 dirty yellow1 and dissolve to a turbid paste which collects on the surface4 ,the simplest method is to distil white roses with the red4 ,the resulting product has not as fine an odor as that from red roses alone1 but is richer in stearoptene4 ,such oil1 which1 unadulterated1 congeals perhaps at #fh ,f41 can by the addition of geranium oil be reduced to from #fc4e to #fe4ge ,f41 thus keeping within the limits permitted4 ,numerous attempts have been made to find a rapid and sure way for the detection of geranium oil in rose oil1 but thus far in vain4 ,attention must also be drawn to the fact that the adulterant is frequently itself adulterated with oil of turpentine before being sold to the distillers of rose oil4 ,besides the above-mentioned ginger-grass oil1 the actual geranium oils from ,pelargonium odoratissimum and ,p4 roseum1 as well as rosewood oil1 sandal-wood oil1 spermaceti1 paraffine1 and fat oils have been mentioned as adulterants of rose oil4 ,the geranium oils having a by-odor of lemon oil1 by which their presence could be readily detected are not suitable for the purpose4 ,neither can rosewood or sandal-wood oils be used1 or at least such adulteration would be so clumsy as to be immediately recognized4 ,attempts to adulterate rose oil by the addition of a fat crystallizable body together with another volatile oil fail on account of the characteristic properties of rose oil stearoptene1 which resembles no other body at present known4 ,while rose oil stearoptene is lighter than eloptene and entirely volatile1 spermaceti possesses essentially different qualities4 ,it does not form such long and specifically light crystals as rose oil stearoptene2 hence it readily separates on the bottom and on shaking exhibits a peculiar iridescent loamy formation4 ,furthermore it melts at #abb ,f41 and not being volatile1 leaves1 on heating1 a greasy stain upon paper1 while the stearoptene melts at #ie ,f4 and1 on heating1 volatilizes completely without leaving a greasy stain behind4 ,if a rose oil is to be tested1 expose the bottle containing the oil to a moderate heat until the contents are entirely liquid2 then gently shake the bottle in order to bring about an intimate mixture of eloptene and stearoptene4 ,now pour some of the oil into a cylindrical glass flask of #bj to #dj cubic centimeters' capacity and allow it to congeal2 then1 while heating in the hand1 observe how the rigid portions act in liquefying4 ,these rigid1 crystalline portions should be transparently clear and1 being lighter than the fluid portion1 float1 while liquefying1 in the upper layer of the fluid4 ,hence1 if now the fluid be again allowed to congeal1 the crystals should appear within the upper half of the oil4 ,the above-mentioned volatile oils partially lack the property of separating a stearoptene in crystals at from #cc4h to #ej ,f41 and though they may have a rose odor1 it is not the mild1 fragrant odor of genuine rose oil4 ,to recognize the latter1 ,guibourt makes use of pure concentrated sulphuric acid4 ,stir together in a watch-crystal an equal number of drops of the oil and of the acid2 pure rose oil preserves its characteristic odor1 while the foreign oils exhibit a disagreeable odor even when mixed with genuine rose oil4 ,schimmel ,co4 give a method for an approximate quantitative determination of spermaceti in rose oil3 ,boil #c to #e grammes of stearoptene1 separated in the manner above given1 with #bj to #be grammes of #e per cent4 alcoholic potash lye for #e to #f hours2 then evaporate the alcohol and compound the residue with hot water4 ,in cooling1 the greater portion of the stearoptene separates in a crystalline mass upon the surface4 ,now pour off the alkaline fluid1 wash the stearoptene with cold water1 then melt it again in hot water1 allow it to cool1 pour off the water1 and repeat the same operations until the wash-water is neutral4 ,the combined aqueous fluids are twice shaken with ether to remove any stearoptene suspended in them4 ,the alcoholic lye separated from the ether is acidulated with dilute sulphuric acid and again extracted with ether4 ,after evaporation no residue 7fatty acids7 should remain4 ,to control the experiment weigh the regained stearoptene dried at #aid ,f41 adding1 of course1 the ether used for extracting the alkaline fluid4 ,there will be a small loss1 since small quantities of stearoptene always evaporate in drying4 ,rosemary oil 7oleum rosemarini or ol4 anthos7 is obtained in ,southern ,europe1 especially in ,southern ,france1 ,dalmatia and ,northern ,italy1 by distillation from the flowering rosemary1 ,rosmarinus officinalis1 natural order ,labiat4 ,it is1 when fresh1 limpid1 colorless1 or yellowish1 of a penetrating1 camphor-like odor and taste1 and specific gravity #j4hhj to #j4iae4 ,by age it becomes darker and thickly-fluid4 ,the ,french rosemary oil is the best and most expensive4 ,it is distinguished from the ,italian oil by its much more pleasant odor4 ,pure ,french rosemary oil dissolves in an equal part of #ij per cent4 alcohol1 while the ,italian product requires #b to #c parts4 ,the cheaper rosemary oils are generally adulterated with oil of turpentine1 which is recognized by the oil not dissolving in the above-mentioned proportion in alcohol1 as well as by the iodine test4 ,rosemary oil does not detonate with iodine1 but simply dissolves with heating and perhaps the emission of vapors4 ,the ,french rosemary oil forms one of the ingredients of eau de ,cologne and is used in other perfumery4 ,rosewood oil or rhodium oil 7oleum ligni rhodii71 is obtained by distillation from the wood of the root and lower trunk of ,convolvulus scopiarius and ,c4 floridas1 ,l41 two plants indigenous to the ,canaries4 ,the waste falling off in the manufacture of rosewood beads is chiefly used for the purpose4 ,the oil is of a pale yellow color becoming brown by age4 ,it has a pleasant odor resembling in some slight degree the fragrance of the rose4 ,it is sometimes used in cheap perfumery as a substitute for rose oil4 ,sandal-wood oil 7oleum ligni sandali7 is distilled from the white ,west ,indian or dark yellow ,east ,indian sandal-wood 7,santalum myrtifolium74 ,for the purpose of distillation the wood is rasped as finely as possible4 ,the oil obtained from the ,east ,indian wood is the better and more valuable4 ,it has a dark yellow to brown color and a pleasant intense1 rose-like odor1 while the ,west ,indian oil is pale yellow and of a less agreeable odor4 ,both oils are very thickly-fluid4 ,the quality and value of sandal-wood oil are best judged by the odor1 an adulteration with cedar oil being readily detected thereby4 ,sassafras oil 7oleum ligni sassafras71 from the bruised root of the sassafras tree1 ,sassafras officinale1 natural order ,laurace4 ,sassafras is one of the most widely distributed trees of ,north ,america1 being found in ,canada1 in all of the ,united ,states1 east of the prairies1 beyond the ,mississippi1 and in ,mexico4 ,the largest amount of oil distilled is within sixty miles of ,baltimore1 ,md41 which is the principal depot for its commerce4 ,oil of sassafras varies in color from colorless to yellow and red4 ,its taste is pungent and aromatic1 being agreeable to most persons4 ,it has a pleasant odor resembling that of fennel1 and is heavier than water1 its specific gravity being #a4jh to #a4ji4 ,it is soluble in #d to #e parts of alcohol of #j4he specific gravity1 and consists of a mixture of various oils1 among which is safrene 7,c#aj;,h#af71 a dextrorotatory terpene which boils between #caa and #cad4f ,f4 ,by strongly cooling in a cold mixture1 safrol1 a crystallizing stearoptene of the composition ,c#aj;,h#aj,o#b1 is separated4 ,safrol is the chief constituent of sassafras oil4 ,it is obtained in abundance by cooling1 at a temperature of #ac ,f41 the portion boiling between #ddb4d and #dee ,f4 ,it melts at #df4d ,f41 and at a medium temperature forms a colorless clear oil of pungent taste1 characteristic odor1 and specific gravity #a4ajd4 ,when the crystals have been heated to above #aeh ,f41 they congeal only after remaining for weeks at a temperature below #cb ,f41 but on being melted at #fh ,f41 the fluid mass again congeals readily on cooling4 ,the safrol is neutral1 optically inactive1 boils at #ddi4f ,f41 and is soluble in alcohol and ether4 ,sassafras oil is said to be frequently adulterated with oil of turpentine1 which is1 however1 readily detected by the energetic reaction and by distilling a sample of the suspected oil4 ,safrol is very suitable for perfuming ordinary soaps4 ,it has in a still higher degree than camphor oil the property of removing the disagreeable odor of some fats1 while at the same time it imparts to the soaps an aromatic1 refreshing odor4 ,as a rule #h to #aa ozs4 are used for #bbj lbs4 of soap2 but if it shall at the same time serve for removing the disagreeable odor of low quality fats1 especially those extracted with bisulphide of carbon or benzine1 it is advisable to take #b4b lbs41 or still better1 #d4d lbs4 for #bbj lbs4 of soap4 ,in this case the safrol should be added to the fat after melting and before saponification and thoroughly mixed with it by stirring4 ,an excellent perfume for ordinary soaps is a mixture of safrol and citronella oil1 it being at any rate preferable to oil of mirbane4 ,the standard of value for safrol is its specific gravity1 which should not be below #a4ajd at #ei ,f4 ,specifically lighter kinds contain camphor oil and other impurities4 ,thyme oil is obtained in ,southern ,france and ,spain by distillation from the flowering thyme1 ,thymus vulgaris1 ,l4 ,it is greenish-yellow to red 7red thyme oil1 oleum thymi rubrum71 but by rectification becomes colorless 7white thyme oil1 oleum thymi album74 ,both oils are quite limpid and possess a strong thyme odor4 ,the specific gravity of the red oil is #j4ia to #j4id1 and that of the rectified oil #j4hg to #j4hi4 ,the oil prepared from the fresh plant shows1 as a rule1 a higher specific gravity than that from the dried plant4 ,thyme oil consists essentially of thymene 7,c#aj;,h#af7 besides some cymene 7,c#aj;,h#ad7 and thymol 7,c#aj;,h#ad,o71 the latter forming an essential constitutent of the oil4 ,oils from which the thymol has been withdrawn occur in commerce4 ,pure thyme oil dissolves clear in every proportion in #ij per cent4 alcohol2 if such is not the case1 adulteration with oil of turpentine is probable4 ,the oil distilled from the field thyme1 ,thymus serpyllum1 ,l41 is limpid1 yellowish to gold yellow1 and of specific gravity #j4hi to #j4ia4 ,old oil is red or brown and no longer limpid4 ,good oil is soluble in every proportion in #ij per cent4 alcohol and emits only slight vapors when brought in contact with iodine4 ,it consists largely of thymene and cymene1 and contains a few per cent4 of phenol-like bodies4 ,turpentine1 oil of4--,under the general name oil of turpentine are comprised the volatile oils obtained by distillation from the resins or other portions of different species of the pine4 ,there is a large number of these oils1 the most important ones of which shall here be mentioned1 though but a few are of interest to the perfumer4 ,austrian oil of turpentine1 from ,pinus laricio1 ,poir4--,it is colorless or yellowish1 transparent2 specific gravity1 #j4hfd2 boiling point1 #caa to #cad ,f42 turns polarized light to the left2 soluble in #f parts #ij per cent4 alcohol4 ,when rectified it has a specific gravity of #j4hfb1 and is soluble in #g parts of #ij per cent4 alcohol4 ,german oil of turpentine1 from ,pinus sylvestris1 ,p4 abies1 ,p4 vulgaris1 ,p4 picea1 and ,p4 rotundata1 resembles the former2 specific gravity1 #j4hfj to #j4hgj2 boiling point1 #caa to #cbj ,f42 turns polarized light to the left4 ,when rectified it is soluble in #g parts of #ij per cent4 alcohol4 ,french oil of turpentine1 from ,french turpentine of ,pinus maritima4--,it is colorless or faint yellowish2 specific gravity1 #j4hfj2 boiling point1 #cac to #cae ,f42 turns polarized light to the left2 odor peculiar2 taste burning4 ,with #g parts of #ij per cent4 alcohol it gives a clear solution4 ,venetian oil of turpentine1 from ,venice turpentine of ,larix decidua1 ,mill41 is laevorotatory and resembles the preceding1 but has a more agreeable odor4 ,venice turpentine is mostly obtained in ,southern ,tyrol and in ,piedmont1 and yields #ah to #be per cent4 of oil4 ,american oil of turpentine1 from ,american turpentine of ,pinus australis1 ,mich41 and ,p4 ,taeda1 ,l4--,it resembles ,french turpentine1 but turns polarized light to the right4 ,specific gravity1 #j4hfd2 boiling point1 #cjb to #cab4h ,f4 ,pine oil 7oleum abietis7 is obtained by distilling with water the leaves or green cones of ,pinus picea1 ,l41 ,abies pectinata1 ,d4 ,c4 ,its odor is much finer than that of ordinary oil of turpentine4 ,it is soluble in #g parts of #ij per cent4 alcohol4 ,dwarf pine oil1 ,krummholz or ,latschenoel 7oleum pini pumilionis71 is obtained by distilling the young tops and cones of ,pinus pumilio with water4 ,it has an agreeable odor1 reminding one of juniper2 specific gravity1 #j4hfe2 boiling point1 #cch ,f4 ,the oil is laevorotatory and soluble in #ab to #ae parts of #ij per cent4 alcohol4 ,pine-leaf oil is obtained by distilling the leaves of ,pinus sylvestris or ,p4 abies by means of steam4 ,it is dextrorotatory2 has a fine aromatic odor2 boiling point1 #cbj ,f42 specific gravity1 #j4hge to #j4hgf4 ,templin oil 7,kienoel7 7oleum pini1 ol4 templinum7 is obtained chiefly in some sections of ,switzerland and ,tyrol by distilling the wood1 branches1 leaves1 cones1 etc41 with water4 ,it has a lemon-like odor2 specific gravity1 #j4hfj to #j4hhj2 boiling point1 #cbj to #cbg ,f41 and is laevorotatory4 ,balsam-pine oil 7oleum abietis canadensis7 is obtained in ,canada from the branches of ,abies balsamea1 ,d4 ,c4 ,it has a slightly yellowish color1 a very agreeable and refreshing odor2 specific gravity1 #j4ijb2 boiling point at #cbj to #ccj4h ,f41 and turns polarized light to the right4 ,of the different varieties of oil of turpentine mentioned only pine oil and dwarf pine oil are used in perfumery4 ,oils of turpentine must be kept carefully protected from light and air4 ,when badly kept they gradually become resinous with formation of formic and acetic acids4 ,when exposed to the air oil of turpentine absorbs ozone2 with iodine it detonates violently4 ,when brought in contact with a mixture of concentrated sulphuric acid and nitric acid it ignites4 ,verbena1 oil of1 from the lemon verbena1 ,aloysia citriodora1 ,hooker4 ,the plant is cultivated in the gardens of ,grasse4 ,the oil is extracted from the leaves by distillation in ,august1 but on account of its high price is almost out of market1 it being everywhere substituted by the oil of lemon grass1 ,andropogon citratus4 ,violet1 oil of4--,the perfume of the violet1 ,viola odorata1 natural order ,violace1 is due to a volatile oil of a green color and of such a penetrating odor as to cause headache2 it acquires the agreeable odor of the violet only by strong dilution4 ,the violet farms from whence the flowers are procured for the production of the oil1 are very extensive at ,nice and in the neighborhood of ,florence4 ,the oil is only obtained by the absorption process1 all other methods to procure it having failed up to this time4 ,it is scarcely obtainable in commerce1 as the ,french manufacturers1 who prepare the greater part of it1 use the very small yield for manufacturing fine perfumery4 ,vitivert or vetiver oil 7oleum iva ranchusa7 from the so-called cuscus1 the rhizome of an ,indian grass1 ,anathereum muricatum4 ,the oil is obtained by distillation1 either from the fresh root in ,india1 or from the imported dried root in ,europe4 ,the yield is very small4 ,the oil is thickly-fluid1 of a red-brown color1 and has an intense1 but agreeable odor very much like that of oil of orris root4 ,like the latter1 it possesses the valuable property of diffusing a lasting perfume4 ,its value can only be judged by the odor1 and hence it should only be purchased from a thoroughly reliable firm4 ,wintergreen oil 7oleum gaultheri7 is obtained by distillation from the wintergreen1 ,gaultheria procumbens1 a plant common in ,north ,america4 ,it is thickly fluid1 yellowish green to gold yellow1 of a sweetish1 aromatic1 pungent taste and penetrating1 narcotic odor1 which becomes agreeable only by strongly diluting the oil4 ,by rectification the oil becomes entirely colorless4 ,its specific gravity is #a4agj to #a4aij 7according to ,gladstone1 #a4adb74 ,it is sparingly soluble in water1 but readily so in alcohol1 ether1 chloroform1 etc4 ,the aqueous or dilute alcoholic solution is colored deep violet by ferric chloride4 ,wintergreen oil boils at #cib ,f42 the boiling point1 however1 soon rises to #dca4f ,f41 when it remains constant4 ,between #cib and #dbh ,f4 a terpene 7,c#aj;,h#af7 constituting about #a_/aj of the oil distils off2 the rest corresponds to the composition ,c#h;,h#h,o#c2 it is methyl salicylate ,c#f;,h#d ,,oh ,,co4,,och#c4 ,wintergreen oil is also obtained by distillation from ,gaultheria punctata and ,gaultheria leucocarpa4 ,an oil1 very closely resembling wintergreen oil1 is in this country distilled from the young shoots of the ,american species of birch1 ,betula lenta1 variously called sweet birch1 black birch1 cherry birch1 and mountain mahogany4 ,according to ,procter1 the oil does not exist in the birch but is formed by the action of the water upon an odorless body1 called gaultherin1 which is converted into volatile oil by the reaction of another substance analogous to emulsin4 ,hence the formation of oil is similar to that of oil of bitter almonds4 ,to obtain the oil from ,betula lenta1 the material is chopped up and placed in the still1 as much as this will hold1 a sufficient quantity of water being then added to fill the still about one-third full4 ,the still is generally permitted to remain in this condition over night1 a fire is made in the morning and distillation proceeds nicely4 ,the manufacture of birch oil is carried on at quite a large scale by ,mr4 ,a4 ,h4 ,seidle1 of ,middleport1 ,schuylkill ,county1 ,pa4 ,methyl salicylate may also be artificially prepared by heating a mixture of methyl alcohol1 sulphuric acid and salicylic acid whereby at first methyl-sulphuric acid is formed which is then converted into methyl ether and sulphuric acid3-- ,,oh ,,och#c ,,so#b ,,ch#c,,oh ,,so#b ,h#b,o ,,oh ,,oh ,,och#c ,,oh ,,so#b ,c#f;,h#d ,,oh ,,cooh ,,oh ,,oh ,c#f;,h#d ,,so#b ,,co4,,och#c ,,oh4 ,etherification succeeds without difficulty1 it being sufficient to heat the mixture for some time and then pour it into water whereby the ether separates as a heavy layer of oil4 ,after washing with water distil in a direct current of steam4 ,the ether thus obtained is as clear as water and1 as regards its other properties1 does not differ from the naturally occurring oil4 ,this artificial wintergreen oil is now much used for perfuming purposes4 ,wintergreen oil is said to be frequently adulterated with sassafras oil which is also specifically heavier than water4 ,if1 according to ,hayer1 #e drops of the oil in a test-tube be mixed with #aj drops of crude concentrated nitric acid1 a deep blood-red fluid results in one minute if oil of sassafras is present4 ,in the course of another minute1 the fluid separates a brown resinous mass4 ,pure oil1 on the other hand1 is but little altered4 ,according to ,p4 ,mac,ewan the adulteration of wintergreen oil with camphor oil is carried on at a large scale4 ,the presence of camphor oil may be recognized by the specific gravity1 #j4ijj1 while that of pure wintergreen oil is1 on an average1 #a4ah4 ,a crude test--which is1 however1 readily executed--is as follows3 ,stir a few drops of the suspected oil in water4 ,if pure1 the oil in a few seconds sinks to the bottom1 but if it contains camphor oil several minutes elapse before it deposits1 and there is time to observe that the particles of oil assume different forms1 but not a globular one4 ,ylang-,ylang oil 7oleum unon7 is obtained by distilling the flowers of ,unona odoratissima1 indigenous to the ,philippine ,islands1 the ,straits of ,malacca1 and ,indian ,archipelago4 ,the oil is colorless to yellowish4 ,its color and specific gravity1 however vary very much1 according to the season of the year in which it is prepared1 the oil distilled in the cold season being more colorless and limpid than that produced in the warm season4 ,the oil has an exquisite odor1 partaking of the jasmine and the lilac1 and is used in the manufacture of the finest perfumery4 ,various kinds are found in commerce1 that marked ,sartorius being preferred4 ,the difference in quality of the many kinds of oil found in commerce is chiefly due to the method of preparation and the selection of the flowers1 which possess the finest aroma when freshly gathered4 ,in distilling1 the first light volatile portions passing over have an incomparable perfume1 while the oil distilling over later on possesses an insipid odor4 ,hence the manufacturer1 who only obtains the first portions1 will furnish the finest quality of oil1 and it is this method of preparation which has gained the ,sartorius oil its high reputation4 ,while according to ,schimmel ,co4's report1 #bbj lbs4 of fresh ylang-ylang flowers yield #b4fd lbs4 of oil1 ,sartorius for the preparation of his fine oil distils off only about half the quantity4 ,conanga oil is a poorer quality of ylang-ylang oil1 obtained from the same plant4 ,two varieties are distinguished in commerce1 viz3 the ,javanese and ,indian4 ,the ,java oil is the best1 and may be used where ordinary qualities of ylang-ylang oil will do4 ,according to ,schimmel ,co4's report the cheaper ,indian oil is very resistant and durable in soaps1 especially when combined with licari or linalo oil4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,resins ,,and ,,balsams4 ,the term resins is applied to certain organic substances which are very closely related to volatile oils1 in so far as many of them are formed from the latter by oxidation4 ,as previously mentioned1 by exposure to the atmospheric air all volatile oils undergo a change1 whereby they thicken and are finally converted into substances possessing the character of resins4 ,in nature most resins also occur mixed with volatile oils4 ,the elementary constituents of resins are carbon1 hydrogen1 and oxygen2 but1 generally speaking1 they are poor in oxygen and rich in carbon4 ,chemically they behave like weak acids1 their solutions frequently reddening litmus and sometimes expelling1 on boiling1 the carbonic acid from alkaline carbonates4 ,independent of a possible content of volatile oil1 every naturally occurring resin consists of several resins which1 however1 can1 as a rule1 be separated only with difficulty4 ,the resins are generally divided into hard resins1 soft resins or balsams1 and gum-resins4 ,the hard resins are1 at the ordinary temperature1 solid1 hard1 and brittle1 can be readily pulverized1 and contain little or no volatile oil4 ,the soft resins or balsams are kneadable1 and sometimes even semi-fluid2 they represent solutions of resins in volatile oils1 or a mixture of volatile oil and resin4 ,on exposure to the air they are changed by the volatile oil suffering oxidation1 they becoming then more or less hard1 and may be converted into actual resins4 ,the gum-resins are mixtures of vegetable gum1 resin1 and volatile oils1 and are obtained by inspissation of the milky juice of several plants4 ,when triturated with water they yield a milky1 turbid fluid1 and dissolve only partially in alcohol4 ,the resins are widely diffused in the vegetable kingdom1 there being scarcely a plant which does not contain resin in one form or another4 ,some families of plants and organs of plants are1 however1 distinguished by their special wealth of resins4 ,the resins are1 as a rule1 secreted simultaneously with volatile oils in special reservoirs1 from which they flow out naturally at certain periods1 or are obtained by incisions made in the plants4 ,a few bodies of the character of resins also occur in the animal kingdom1 and a series of them1 the fossil resins1 are generally classed in the mineral kingdom1 though most of them are very likely derived from plants4 ,some resins1 such as the aldehyde resins1 etc41 are purely artificial products4 ,of the hard resins1 benzoin alone is used in perfumery2 of the balsams1 ,peru balsam1 ,tolu balsam1 and storax balsam2 and of the gum-resins1 the myrrh4 ,benzoin is exclusively obtained from ,styrax benzon1 ,dryand 7,benzone officinale1 ,hayne71 a tree which grows in ,java1 ,sumatra1 and ,siam4 ,the bark of the tree is slit to allow a fluid to flow out1 which concretes on the trunk in the form of grains1 or is collected in vessels in which it congeals and assumes the form of lumps 7tampangs74 ,older trees which have been frequently tapped for resin yield a product of a lower quality2 the grains 7tears7 forming1 as a rule1 the better varieties4 ,when the benzoin collects in large masses it always shows an amygdaloid structure1 the grains 7almonds7 of a roundish form1 smooth termination1 homogeneous structure1 and paler color1 appearing imbedded in a dark1 porous1 or resiniform mass4 ,according to the appearance of the product three varieties are distinguished3 ,benzoin in tears 7,b4 in lacrimis71 amygdaloid benzoin 7,b4 amygdaloides71 and lump benzoin 7,b4 in sortis1 ,b4 in massis74 ,the benzoin in tears forms loose1 smoothly terminated1 longish1 homogeneously appearing masses of an opal-like lustre1 and first of a whitish1 and later on1 of a yellowish1 reddish1 or brownish color4 ,the separate pieces are up to #c millimeters in diameter1 though the ,siam benzoin in tears frequently consists of still larger and generally decidedly flattened pieces4 ,amygdaloid benzoin consists chiefly of white pieces1 becoming1 later on1 brownish1 of a waxy lustre and imbedded in a lustrous brown-red resinous mass4 ,the lump benzoin or ordinary benzoin has also an amygdaloid structure but is not so rich in almonds as the preceding variety and possesses either a fine granular or colophony-like ground-mass and is frequently contaminated by parts of plants4 ,the exterior of the variety occurring in commerce in large lumps shows1 according to the mode of packing1 the imprint of leaves or of coarse pack-cloth4 ,benzoin generally consists of cinnamic and benzoic acids which occur in a crystalline state in the grains as well as the ground-mass2 further1 of several amorphous resins soluble in alcohol1 and coloring matter4 ,the content of cinnamic and benzoic acids amounts to from #ab to #bj per cent4 ,the best varieties from ,sumatra and ,singapore contain no benzoic acid1 and those from ,siam no cinnamic acid4 ,all varieties of benzoin possess a peculiar odor1 that of the better varieties being agreeable1 and a sweet1 aromatic1 but pungent taste4 ,the melting point generally lies between #agf and #bjc ,f41 that of the tears and of the almonds being lower than that of the ground-mass4 ,a low melting-point is accepted as a mark of quality1 ,siam benzoin1 which is considered the best1 melting at #afg ,f4 ,some varieties1 for instance1 those recently imported from ,singapore1 have a pronounced vanilla-like odor2 the presence of vanillin has been established in them4 ,the ,sumatra benzoin has a storax-like odor4 ,benzoin is sparingly soluble in chloroform1 only partially so in ether1 and completely in alcohol4 ,on mixing the alcoholic solution with water1 the resin is separated4 ,petroleum-ether and benzine withdraw only benzoic acid from the dry1 powdered benzoin4 ,all varieties of benzoin dissolve in concentrated sulphuric acid to a beautiful purple colored fluid1 from which benzoic acid1 if present1 is separated in crystals by the gradual addition of water4 ,the establishment of the presence of cinnamic acid is best effected as follows3 ,boil the sample in milk of lime1 filter1 and treat the solution with hydrochloric acid4 ,the precipitate thereby separated is thoroughly washed1 triturated with potassium permanganate and water1 and heated1 whereby in the presence of cinnamic acid1 oil of bitter almonds is formed from the latter1 which is readily recognized by the odor4 ,if benzoin containing benzoic acid be heated1 white vapors are emitted which1 on cold surfaces1 deposit in very delicate1 lustrous1 acicular1 or foliated crystals of benzoic acid1 the so-called benzoin flowers 7,floris benzoes47 ,benzoic acid thus prepared possesses an agreeable1 vanilla-like odor1 since by heating the benzoin the greater portion of the odoriferous substance contained in it escapes4 ,benzoic acid separated by the wet method is odorless4 ,benzoin is especially used for fumigating pastilles4 ,it is also of great importance on account of its property of preventing fats from becoming rancid1 if added to them in small quantities4 ,peru balsam 7,balsamum ,peruvianum7 is the produce of the ,balsam ,coast1 ,san ,salvador1 ,central ,america1 where ,sansonate forms the central point of the industry4 ,in the mountain forests1 back of the coast1 grows the balsam tree 7,myroxylon ,pereir1 ,klotzch2 ,toluifer ,pereir1 ,baillon71 natural order1 ,papilionace4 ,the gaining of balsam commences when the tree is five years old1 the collecting time beginning in the dry season in the first days of ,november4 ,the trunks of the trees are belabored with hammers on four places 7according to other statements1 on twenty to thirty71 so that the bark is detached in strips4 ,after a few days the bark thus loosened is burnt off by means of torches1 whereupon a balsamic fluid oozes from the young wood1 which is absorbed by pieces of cloth or rags1 placed upon the denuded places4 ,when the rags are thoroughly saturated with balsam1 they are squeezed out and then thrown into an earthen pot filled with boiling water1 whereby the balsam is detached and collects on the bottom of the vessel4 ,by this process the ,balsamo de trap is obtained4 ,by boiling the bark1 which falls off1 a small quantity of a poorer quality of balsam1 called tacuasonte1 is obtained1 which1 it would seem1 is frequently added to the better quality4 ,crude ,peruvian balsam is a gray-green to dirty-yellow fluid1 of the consistency of syrup4 ,the process of purification in use on the ,balsamic ,coast is as follows3 ,the crude balsam is brought into large iron vessels1 holding from #acjj to #aejj lbs4 each1 and allowed to clarify by quietly standing from #h to #ad days1 the heavy impurities settling on the bottom1 while the light dirt1 together with the water1 appears as foam on the surface4 ,after #h to #ad days the balsam is drawn off through a cock1 located about #d inches above the bottom of the vessel1 into a tinned iron boiler1 and boiled over an open fire at a moderate heat for #b to #c hours4 ,the foam which forms is skinned off1 and boiling continued until no more foam appears4 ,the collection of balsam continues until the first rain falls in ,april or ,may1 when the work ceases4 ,a vigorous tree1 well treated1 yields balsam for #cj years in succession1 and if then allowed to rest #e or #f years can be used several years longer4 ,the annual yield of balsam from #ajj trees is said to be about #eej lbs4 ,from the very odoriferous flowers of the balsam tree or1 according to others1 by expressing the fruits1 a white ,peruvian balsam is obtained1 which is1 however1 seldom found in commerce4 ,it is of the consistency of honey1 pale-yellow1 smells of vanilla and melilot1 and has an aromatic bitter taste4 ,on standing for some time it deposits crystals of myroxocarpin4 ,ordinary 7black7 ,peruvian balsam is a black-brown fluid1 transparent and dark 7honey-yellow in thin layers71 which retains its consistency even after being kept for years and deposits no crystals4 ,it shows a slight acid reaction1 has an agreeable odor reminding one of gum benzoin and vanilla1 and at first a mild1 but1 later on1 a sharp and pungent taste4 ,the specific gravity of pure ,peru balsam formerly varied between #a4ad and #a4af1 but at present between #a4ace and #a4ade1 this change in the specific gravity being very likely due to a different process of purification4 ,peru balsam is miscible in every proportion with absolute alcohol1 while ether leaves behind undissolved a black1 smeary residue1 and hot oils of turpentine or almonds dissolve only about one-half4 ,it is miscible with acetone1 chloroform1 amyl alcohol4 ,by digesting the balsam with aqueous potash lye1 ,peru balsam oil1 which constitutes about #fj per cent4 of the balsam1 separates on the surface4 ,in an undecomposed state the oil is1 according to ,kachler1 chiefly benzyl1 cinnamate1 or cinnamein4 ,the potash solution separated from the ,peru balsam oil1 contains cinnamic acid1 benzoic acid1 and resin4 ,the latter1 according to ,stotze1 can be separated into two portions1 one soluble1 and the other insoluble1 in aqueous alcohol4 ,benzine and petroleum-ether dissolve from the ,peru balsam only the nearly colorless cinnamein of which it contains up to #de per cent4 ,the behavior of ,peru balsam towards bisulphide of carbon is very characteristic1 #c parts of it giving1 according to ,flckiger1 a clear solution with #a part of bisulphide of carbon2 if1 however1 #h parts more of the latter be added1 up to #cj per cent4 of a dark resin is separated1 while the bisulphide of carbon is but slightly colored4 ,from ,san ,salvador #aa1jjj to #ac1jjj lbs4 of ,peru balsam are annually brought to ,europe1 it being generally imported in tin cans1 and more rarely in earthen jars surrounded by a kind of plaited matting4 ,according to whether the product comes by way of ,england1 ,new ,york1 ,bremen1 or ,hamburg1 it is distinguished as ,english1 ,american1 ,bremen1 or ,hamburg ,peru balsam4 ,the supply being frequently insufficient1 the balsam is subjected to many adulterations4 ,a cheap1 so-called ,london ,peru balsam always contained colophony and had a specific gravity of #a4acc4 ,there can be no doubt that pure unadulterated ,peru balsam is difficult to obtain4 ,as adulterants1 are used3 ,alcohol1 volatile oils1 fat oil1 especially castor oil2 further1 copaiba balsam1 ,canada balsam1 gurjun balsam1 storax1 benzoin1 and asphaltum4 ,the establishment of these adulterants is connected with difficulties2 but the properties of ,peru balsam are so characteristic that it is quite easy to detect whether it is genuine and pure1 or not1 the specific gravity and proportions of solubility deserving especial attention in this respect4 ,the test by the specific gravity is available1 since most of the adulterants render the balsam specifically lighter1 especially alcohol1 but also copaiba balsam 7specific gravity1 ,o4#ie71 castor oil 7#j4if71 oil of turpentine 7#j4hg71 gurjun 7#j4if71 etc4 ,the customary procedure is as follows3 ,prepare a common salt solution of #a4be specific gravity1 by dissolving #a part of dried sodium chloride in #e parts of distilled water2 drop the balsam into the solution2 every drop of pure ,peru balsam sinks in a roundish form to the bottom2 but if the drop again comes to the surface and spreads out upon it1 it is a sure sign of some kind of adulteration4 ,however1 the change in the specific gravity by the admixture of fat oils is but very slight1 since the balsam can only be mixed with them to a conformable fluid in the proportion of from #g to #aj to #a4 ,castor oil forms an exception in this respect1 it being miscible also in other proportions4 ,petroleum-ether is an excellent testing agent4 ,bring into a test-tube about #b4e grammes of ,peru balsam1 and #f to #g centimeters of petroleum-ether1 close the tube with the finger and shake vigorously2 a brown1 thickly-fluid mass adheres in unequal layers to the sides of the tube1 and before running together remains in this position #a to #b minutes after the petroleum-ether has been poured into a porcelain saucer4 ,if1 however1 the mass is thinly-fluid1 and does not1 in the above-mentioned manner1 adhere to the sides of the tube1 but1 after shaking1 collects below the petroleum-ether1 the balsam is adulterated4 ,after shaking1 immediately pour off the petroleum-ether2 if the latter is almost colorless1 or but slightly colored yellowish1 the balsam is pure2 if1 however1 it is turbid1 and soon forms a sediment1 or if it is yellow or brownish1 or brown1 the balsam is adulterated4 ,alcohol is added either by itself or in the form of saturated solution of storax1 benzoin1 or ,canada balsam1 by which means the specific gravity of the balsam is but slightly changed4 ,bring the above-mentioned common salt solution1 together with #bj grammes of the ,peru balsam to be examined1 into a small flask1 and distil off about #e grammes2 gradually mix the distillate with #e drops of caustic potash lye and potassium iodide solution saturated with iodine1 shaking gently until the mixture acquires a slightly yellow-brownish coloration4 ,if this coloration does not disappear in one minute1 add drop by drop more of the potash lye until discoloration appears4 ,in the presence of alcohol1 yellow crystals of iodoform1 which are readily recognized under the microscope by their form1 collect on the bottom of the fluid4 ,adulteration with a volatile oil is recognized in the distillate by odor and taste4 ,fat oil1 ,canada balsam1 copaiba balsam1 gurjun balsam1 and volatile oil may be recognized by the following tests3 ,if pure ,peru balsam in a porcelain saucer is thoroughly mixed with an equal volume of pure concentrated sulphuric acid1 the mixture thereby becomes heated1 vapors of a pungent odor being emitted1 and if then set aside to cool1 it congeals4 ,in the presence of fat or volatile oils1 copaiba balsam1 gurjun balsam1 or ,canada balsam1 it remains1 however1 more or less thickly fluid or more or less soft-smeary4 ,if the balsam be pure1 the cold mixture1 after washing with water1 should yield a hardish or soft-friable mass1 which1 when kneaded with the fingers1 should not prove smeary or sticky4 ,fat oils are also very readily recognized by the use of warm petroleum-ether4 ,the extract is evaporated1 saponified with potash lye1 extracted with alcohol1 evaporated and decomposed with hydrochloric acid4 ,a mixture of cinnamic acid and any of the fatty acids present in the ,peru balsam is thereby obtained1 which1 after treatment with water1 remains in the residue4 ,of copaiba balsam1 ,peru balsam can take up as much as #be per cent4 ,from such adulterated balsam benzine dissolves the copaiba balsam1 together with cinnamein1 and the adulteration can then be recognized by the odor4 ,cinnamein treated with sulphuric acid acquires a cherry-red color1 while in the presence of copaiba balsam or gurjun balsam1 a yellow-brown coloration appears4 ,the detection of an adulteration of ,peru balsam with storax is1 according to ,denner1 effected as follows3 ,shake in a test-tube #e parts of the balsam to be examined with #e parts of a #ae per cent4 soda solution 7soda lye of #a4fj specific gravity7 and #aj parts of water4 ,then shake with #ae parts of ether1 and after settling pour off the ether as much as possible4 ,repeat the shaking with #ae parts of fresh ether4 ,now heat the aqueous residue to boiling1 acidulate with hydrochloric acid1 add cold water1 remove the resin separated thereby from the fluids1 dissolve it in about #c parts of soda lye of the above-mentioned strength1 dilute with #bj parts of water1 heat to boiling1 and precipitate with barium chloride solution4 ,bring the precipitate upon the filter1 and1 after allowing it to drain off1 dry it in the water-bath4 ,then extract it with alcohol1 evaporate the alcoholic extract1 take it up with concentrated sulphuric acid1 add chloroform1 and shake4 ,in the presence of gum benzoin or storax1 the chloroform acquires a violet to blue color4 ,this method is a sure test for the recognition of even very small admixtures4 ,a content of asphaltum is readily detected by mixing the ,peru balsam with ether compounded with about alcohol4 ,any asphaltum present remains undissolved1 and may be collected upon a filter4 ,in perfumery ,peru balsam is chiefly used for pomades and fumigating pastilles1 but also for cosmetics and soaps4 ,tolu balsam is the produce of ,myroxylon toluiferum1 ,humb41 ,bonpl4 et ,kunth1 ,toluifera balsamum1 ,l41 a tree of the natural order ,papilionace1 growing in ,northwestern ,south ,america4 ,it exudes during the heat of the day1 and is collected in gourds4 ,it soon hardens1 by which it is distinguished from ,peru balsam4 ,in commerce two varieties of ,tolu balsam are found1 one of the consistency of turpentine and the other solid4 ,the first variety1 ,brazilian balsam1 forms a semi-fluid1 turpentine-like1 sticky mass1 of the color of copaiba balsam4 ,by long storage it becomes hard and brownish4 ,the solid variety1 ,tolu1 or ,carthagena balsam1 is a brittle1 more or less translucent yellow-brown or red-brown resin of a granular or crystalline appearance4 ,it softens at about #hf ,f41 and melts between #adj and #adi ,f4 ,viewed under the microscope1 it appears rich in crystals of separated ciannamic and benzoic acids4 ,its specific gravity varies between #a and #b4 ,both varieties of ,tolu balsam have an aromatic1 slightly pungent and sourish taste1 resembling somewhat that of ,peru balsam4 ,they are readily soluble in ordinary spirit of wine1 alcohol1 acetone1 chloroform1 and potash lye1 but insoluble in petroleum-ether and bisulphide of carbon4 ,in ,tolu balsam have been found toluene1 cinnamic and benzoic acids1 and several resins not yet sufficiently examined4 ,according to ,scharling1 toluene constitutes about #a per cent4 of the ,tolu balsam4 ,it forms a colorless1 limp oil1 boils1 according to ,deville1 at #cch ,f41 and according to ,e4 ,kopp1 at between #cji and #cbj ,f41 and has a specific gravity of #j4heh4 ,it has a sharp1 pungent1 pepper-like taste1 and an odor resembling that of elemi4 ,in the air1 it is gradually converted by oxidation into a soft resin1 without1 however1 becoming colored4 ,on boiling ,tolu balsam with water1 cinnamic and benzoic acids are separated from the solution4 ,when treated with potash lye the resinous acids are fixed1 and the toluene floats upon the fluid4 ,commercial ,tolu balsam is frequently more or less mixed with vegetable remains1 which1 however1 can be readily detected with the microscope1 especially after the solution of the resinous constituents4 ,it is frequently adulterated with turpentine or pine resin4 ,such adulterations may be detected by bisulphide of carbon1 which completely dissolves these substances1 but not the ,tolu balsam4 ,when pure ,tolu balsam is triturated with concentrated sulphuric acid1 a cherry-red fluid is1 according to ,ulex1 obtained1 which does not evolve sulphurous acid1 as is the case in the presence of turpentine-resins4 ,tolu balsam is chiefly used for fumigating pastilles4 ,the tincture prepared from it is also frequently used with advantage to give durability to the scent of handkerchief perfumes4 ,according to ,holmes and ,nalor1 a ,tolu balsam differing in its chemical behavior is found in the ,english wholesale trade4 ,in thick layers it is yellow-brown1 but perfectly transparent and gold-yellow in thin layers and extraordinarily sticky4 ,by storage it hardens but slightly1 and does not become brittle even if exposed for several days to a temperature of #bab ,f4 ,its odor reminds one somewhat of glue1 and it develops a pungent1 sharp taste only after chewing it for a few seconds4 ,its melting point lies at #acf4d ,f41 being lower than that of ordinary ,tolu balsam1 from which it also differs in that it completely dissolves in ether as well as in benzine1 while it is only partially dissolved by potash lye4 ,the balsam contains no toluene1 nor a hydrocarbon1 boiling at #cbj ,f4 ,further investigations have shown it actually to be a natural product1 the derivation of which1 however1 could not be ascertained4 ,storax is the produce of ,liquid ambar orientale1 ,mill1 a plantain-like tree which reaches a height of about #cb feet4 ,in ,southern ,asia ,minor1 especially in ,cyprus1 the tree forms handsome1 dense forests4 ,according to ,flckiger1 the balsam is extracted from the peeled-off bark1 with the assistance of warm water4 ,the mass thus melted out sinks down in the water1 and is later on combined with the substance obtained by expressing the boiled bark while still warm4 ,this mixture forms the liquid storax 7,storax liquidus74 ,the residue remaining after expression is dried in the sun and forms1 under the name of ,cortex thymiamatis1 an article of commerce1 which is used for fumigating purpose1 for the preparation of ordinary storax1 etc4 ,the crude storax is brought to ,smyrna1 ,syra1 and ,kos1 and comes into the ,european market almost exclusively from ,trieste4 ,liquid storax is a sticky1 opaque substance of the consistency of turpentine4 ,it has a mouse-gray color1 which by contact with the air becomes brown on the surface1 an agreeable benzoin-like odor1 and a sharp1 pungent1 aromatic taste4 ,it is heavier than water1 its specific gravity being #a4aab to #a4aae4 ,on losing its content of moisture 7by drying out when heated7 it becomes brown and clear4 ,when exposed to the air in a thick layer it does not completely dry1 and in a thin layer only after considerable time2 but when pressed with the finger always shows a certain stickiness4 ,it is partially soluble in spirits of wine1 yielding with it a more or less turbid solution4 ,it is also incompletely soluble in oil of turpentine1 benzine1 petroleum-ether1 and chloroform4 ,viewed under the microscope liquid storax appears as a colorless thickish fluid1 intermingled with larger and smaller drops1 fragments of bark tissue1 and now and then1 perhaps1 with crystals of styracin and cinnamic acid4 ,liquid storax contains styrol 7#aj to #ae per cent471 styracin1 and cinnamic acid 7#aj to #ae per cent474 ,styrol or cinnamol seems to be the most important carrier of the odor and taste of liquid storax4 ,if #bj parts of liquid storax are subjected to distillation together with #ae parts of crystallized soda and #bjj parts of water1 the cinnamol collects in the form of a yellowish1 very mobile liquid upon the distillate4 ,by rectification it can be obtained colorless1 but is thereby partially converted into metastyrol1 an isomeric1 amorphous1 odorless1 and tasteless substance which is solid at an ordinary temperature4 ,by exposure for some time to a heat of #fjh ,f4 it is reconverted into styrol4 ,styrol 7,c#h;,h#h7 forms a clear1 colorless1 mobile liquid having an odor of benzine and naphthalene4 ,its specific gravity is #j4ibd and its boiling point lies at #bid4h ,f4 ,in water it is but sparingly soluble1 but is miscible in all proportions with anhydrous spirit of wine1 chloroform1 benzine1 ether1 and oils4 ,it stands in the same relation to cinnamic acid as benzol to benzoic acid1 and is formed by distilling a mixture of cinnamic acid and barium oxide4 ,styracin is cinnyl cinnamate4 ,on distilling liquid storax with water1 styrol passes over4 ,if now from the residue the cinnamic acid be withdrawn by means of soda-solution1 and the resin1 which remains behind1 be treated with cold spirit of wine1 styracin is left1 which crystallizes from ether1 hot alcohol1 or benzol4 ,it forms colorless1 odorless1 and tasteless crystals which melt at #aac ,f4 and remain for a long time fluid after melting4 ,it is insoluble in water1 but soluble in #be parts cold1 and #b parts boiling1 spirit of wine1 as well as in #e parts ether4 ,by oxidizing substances it is converted into bitter almond oil and benzoic acid1 and by the action of potassium hydroxide it is decomposed to cinnyl alcohol and cinnamic acid4 ,good liquid storax should yield to #ij per cent4 alcohol at least so much soluble matter that the dried residue of the filtered alcoholic solution amounts to #fe per cent4 of the quantity of storax4 ,ordinary liquid storax1 which has not been stored too long1 contains #aj to #bj per cent4 of water and about the same quantity of impurities 7fragments of plant tissue7 which remain behind on treatment with the above-mentioned solvents4 ,liquid storax is said to be adulterated with the turpentines of some species of larch and pine4 ,such adulteration is primarily detected1 according to ,hager1 by the specific gravity4 ,take up a drop of the balsam with a knitting-needle1 and by heating the needle make it fall into a cold solution of #a part common salt and #h parts water4 ,on stirring1 the drop must sink1 otherwise adulteration with turpentine is very likely4 ,next bring #e grammes of the storax into a test-tube1 melt it in the water-bath1 add volume of absolute alcohol1 and mix by shaking2 then compound the mixture with several times its volume of petroleum-ether1 shake vigorously1 allow to settle1 and decant the layer of petroleum-ether4 ,repeat twice this shaking with petroleum-ether2 then evaporate the petroleum-ether solution in a tared flask in the water-bath4 ,the residue remaining after evaporation is colorless1 bluish opalescent1 and of an agreeable odor2 in the presence of turpentine it is yellowish and has the1 not to be mistaken1 odor of turpentine4 ,storax in grains consists of round1 longish grains of a brown-black color and smooth1 lustrous surface1 which soften by the warmth of the hand4 ,it is nothing but liquid storax brought into a granular form and by storing freed more or less from impurities4 ,ordinary storax 7,styrax calamitus or ,st4 vulgaris7 is an artificial product prepared by mixing liquid storax with various comminuted vegetable substances4 ,formerly the above-mentioned bark of the storax tree 7,cortex thymiamatis7 was only used for this purpose1 but at present sawdust and exhausted cinnamon are also taken4 ,this storax forms a reddish or brown-black1 humus-like mass1 which is generally moist4 ,when dried it is very friable and has a storax-like odor distinctly calling to mind that of cinnamon4 ,good qualities are abundantly covered with crystalline efflorescences 7of cinnamic acid and styracin72 poorer qualities prepared with the addition of sawdust have a musty odor4 ,the admixed vegetable tissue can1 according to ,wiesner1 be readily recognized by boiling the storax with alcohol1 and after washing treating with dilute chromic acid1 to which a small quantity of sulphuric acid has been added4 ,liquid storax was already used for fumigating purposes by the ancient ,greeks and ,jews1 and it forms to-day a constituent of fumigating pastilles1 essences1 etc4 ,storax tincture furthermore possesses the property of giving more constancy to scents resembling it4 ,piesse says1 in regard to the odor of liquid storax1 that it combines the agreeable with the disagreeable1 it possessing partially an odor similar to that of the tuberose and partially one reminding of coal-tar oil4 ,however1 it possesses this disagreeable odor only in a concentrated state2 when finely divided or diluted1 it diffuses a very agreeable perfume4 ,under the name ,american storax1 white ,peru balsam1 white ,indian balsam or liquid ambar is found in commerce a product similar to storax1 which is derived from ,liquidambar styraciflua1 ,l41 a tree indigenous to ,mexico and ,louisiana4 ,this balsam forms a clear1 transparent1 brownish-yellow1 semi-fluid mass4 ,it has a storax-like odor1 and a sharp and pungent taste4 ,it is only partially soluble in alcohol1 specifically lighter than water1 and shows an acid reaction4 ,it is said to consist of #bd per cent4 styracin1 #a per cent4 benzoic acid1 volatile oil1 etc4 ,it is sometimes used for fumigating purposes1 but chiefly serves for the adulteration of ,tolu balsam4 ,myrrh 7,gummi-resina myrrha1 ,gummi myrrha7 is a gum resin1 the produce of ,balsamodendron ,ehrenbergianum1 ,berg1 and1 perhaps1 also of ,balsamodendron ,myrrha1 ,nees4 ,the first-named tree is found in the countries bordering on the ,red ,sea1 and extends into ,africa to the ,somali ,coast1 where the principal supply of myrrh is collected4 ,the gum-resin exudes naturally as a white oil-like mass1 which1 after hardening1 whereby it becomes considerably darker1 is collected by the natives and brought chiefly to ,berbera1 a small seaport opposite ,aden1 to be exchanged for ,english and ,indian goods4 ,from there1 by way of ,aden and ,bombay1 it reaches the ,european market4 ,in ,bombay the first sorting takes place1 which is1 however1 superficial1 and hence has to be repeated in ,europe 7,london74 ,according to ,parker1 ten different resins are admixed with myrrh1 especially bdellium resins4 ,in commerce ,myrrha electa and ,myrrha vulgaris or in sortis are distinguished4 ,myrrha electa1 the best quality1 occurs in pieces of irregular form and variable sizes1 consisting of tears--either distinct or agglomerated--usually covered with a fine powder or dust4 ,the surface is seldom smooth1 but generally rough or granular4 ,the color varies1 being pale reddish-yellow1 red1 or reddish-brown4 ,the fracture is conchoidal1 seldom smooth1 but rather granular1 rough1 of a fatty lustre1 and sometimes shows whitish stri or veins1 or opalesces like flint4 ,the fractured edges are more or less translucent2 thin disks or splinters are translucent or transparent4 ,the specific gravity is1 according to ,hager1 #a4aie to #a4bje1 and according to ,ruickholdt1 #a4ab to #a4ah4 ,a ,myrrha electa is the better1 the more fragile1 friable1 and paler in color it is1 and the more rapidly it ignites and burns with a yellow1 sooty flame4 ,poorer qualities may be recognized by the dark-brown color and dirty appearance4 ,myrrh is with difficulty rubbed to a fine powder1 this being possible only after drying1 which must1 however1 be done at a very moderate heat in order to prevent loss of volatile oil4 ,according to ,hager1 myrrh consists in #ajj parts of about #b4e parts volatile oil 7myrrhol71 #be to #ce parts resin 7myrrhin71 #ee to #fe parts gum soluble in water1 #c to #h parts salts1 impurities1 and water4 ,water forms with myrrh an emulsion1 and dissolves the gum4 ,the resinous constituents are dissolved by spirit of wine4 ,the gum1 which forms the portion of the myrrh soluble in water1 but insoluble in alcohol1 and amounts to from #eg to #ei per cent41 is1 according to ,oscar ,koehler1 a hydrocarbon of the formula ,c#f;,h#aj,o#e4 ,the portion soluble in alcohol is1 according to the same chemist1 a mixture of various resins1 an indifferent soft resin of the formula ,c#bf;,h#cd,o#e1 soluble in alcohol and ether1 forming the greater portion of it4 ,there are further present two resin acids1 one of which has to be considered a bibasic acid of composition ,c#ab;,h#af,o#h1 and the other as a monobasic acid of the formula ,c#bf;,h#cb,o#i4 ,the principal constituent of the volatile oil of which1 according to ,koehler1 #g to #h per cent4 is present1 while ,ruickholdt formerly found only #b4ah per cent4 corresponds to the formula ,c#aj;,h#ad,o4 ,the volatile oil is laevorotatory1 and when diluted with bisulphide of carbon becomes1 according to ,flckiger1 violet by the action of bromine4 ,an extract of myrrh1 prepared with bisulphide of carbon1 gives the same reaction with bromine vapor4 ,hydrochloric or nitric acid also colors myrrh violet1 which also applies to the volatile oil4 ,petroleum-ether should1 at the utmost1 take up #f per cent4 of the myrrh1 and the extract must be colorless4 ,myrrh is frequently contaminated with bark1 which forms either a film of cork as thick as paper or a crust of a fibrous and1 at the same time1 brittle nature4 ,sand or small pebbles are also frequently mixed with the myrrh4 ,other varieties of gum or gum-resin1 which considerably decrease the value of the product1 are often found in the commercial article1 the inferior qualities especially being adulterated and mixed with dark pieces of ,suakim gum1 gum of the plum or cherry tree1 bdellium1 and similar substances1 which are partially moistened with myrrh tincture1 and scattered over with myrrh powder4 ,adulteration with gum-arabic1 gum of the plum or cherry tree1 which are coated with alcoholic myrrh solution1 is recognized by the paler lustre1 greater transparency1 and mucilaginous taste4 ,pieces of resin melt on heating1 while myrrh only swells up4 ,bdellium is detected by the dark or black-brown color1 toughness1 less bitter taste1 and by crackling and spitting when held in the flame of a candle1 as well as by the reaction of myrrh with nitric acid discovered by ,bonastre4 ,by mixing #e cubic centimeters of alcoholic myrrh tincture with #e to #aj drops of fuming nitric acid1 a rose-color coloration passing into red results4 ,parker gives the following method for testing myrrh3 ,prepare a tincture of #a part myrrh and #f parts spirit of wine4 ,saturate with this tincture white filtering paper1 allow it to drain off1 and then wrap it around a glass rod moistened with nitric acid of #a4db specific gravity4 ,with genuine myrrh the paper immediately becomes deep yellow-brown and then black1 while the edges of the paper strip appear dark purple-red4 ,when a few drops of the tincture of myrrh are allowed to dry in1 a transparent residue remains behind4 ,the tinctures of spurious articles 7with the exception of bissabol7 give turbid residues4 ,myrrh was already in ,moses's time an article used in the sacrifices of the ,israelites4 ,it seems to have been made use of by ,democrates4 ,dioscorides enumerates eight varieties of it1 and ,pliny seven1 which he obtained from ,abyssinia4 ,herodotus and ,diodorus ,siculus mention ,arabia as the home of the myrrh tree4 ,in perfumery1 myrrh is chiefly used for dentifrices and fumigating pastilles and essences4 ,opopanax is the inspissated juice of the root of ,opoponax ,chironium1 ,koch1 or ,ferula ,opoponax1 ,l4 ,it forms grains or lumps of a red-yellow or brown color1 and has a fracture of a waxy lustre4 ,it can be rubbed to a gold-yellow powder4 ,it has a strong and peculiar odor1 and a very bitter and balsamic taste4 ,with water it forms an emulsion1 while it is only partially soluble in spirit of wine4 ,it contains very little volatile oil1 and a resin which melts at #bab ,f41 and is soluble in ether and aqueous alkalies4 ,it further contains gum1 organic and inorganic salts1 and foreign admixtures4 ,opopanax is but little used in perfumery4 ,for ,extraits the opopanax oil is better adapted than the tincture prepared from the gum1 the latter coloring the ,extrait dark4 ,olibanum or ,frankincense is the inspissated juice of various varieties of ,boswellia1 partially indigenous to ,africa and partially to ,asia4 ,the pure pieces are pale yellow1 seldom reddish1 transparent1 or opaque1 brittle1 covered with a mealy coating and of a splintery fracture4 ,the specific gravity of olibanum is #a4bb2 its odor is slightly balsamic1 and its taste bitter and pungent4 ,it melts only incompletely when exposed to heat1 diffusing an agreeable odor4 ,it consists in #ajj parts of #e to #g parts of a clear volatile oil1 boiling at #cbc4f ,f41 and of specific gravity #j4hf1 #ef parts of acid resin1 and #cj to #cf parts gum1 which corresponds with gum-arabic4 ,with water it forms a milky fluid1 and is mostly dissolved by spirit of wine4 ,selected olibanum 7,olibanum electum7 is the best commercial variety1 while ,olibanum naturale1 ,o4 in lacrymis1 and ,o4 in sortis1 form darker pieces intermingled with separate paler grains1 and contaminated by pieces of bark1 and wood and sand4 ,olibanum is only adulterated with sandarac and naturally exuded pine resin1 inspissated to tears by exposure to the air4 ,the former is recognized by the fracture being glassy and transparent1 and the latter by completely dissolving to a clear solution in spirit of wine4 ,olibanum serves as an addition to fumigating pastilles1 etc4 ,sandarac is the resin exuding from the bark of ,thuja articulata1 ,desf41 or ,callitris quadrivalvis1 ,vent41 which grows in ,barbary4 ,it forms pale yellow1 transparent1 brittle grains with a glassy fracture1 which have a specific gravity of #a4jf to #a4ji and fuse readily4 ,its odor is slightly balsamic and its taste somewhat bitter4 ,sandarac softens at #bab ,f4 and melts at #bge ,f4 ,it dissolves in hot absolute alcohol1 ether1 and amyl alcohol1 is less soluble in chloroform1 petroleum-ether1 and volatile oils1 and insoluble in benzol4 ,in #ij per cent4 alcohol of it dissolve2 the term sandaracin has been applied to the insoluble portion4 ,according to ,unverdorben1 sandarac consists of three different resins4 ,it is sometimes employed in fumigating pastilles4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,perfume-,,substances ,,from ,,the ,,animal ,,kingdom4 ,musk is a peculiar concrete secretion obtained from ,moschus mochiferus1 ,l41 an animal bearing a close resemblance to the deer in shape and size1 and indigenous to the high plateaus of ,asia4 ,the musk is contained in an oval1 hairy1 projecting sac1 found only in the male1 situated between the umbilicus and the prepuce4 ,it is from #b to #c inches long and from #a to #b broad4 ,in commerce1 several varieties of musk are distinguished1 the principal ones1 however1 being ,tonkin and ,kabardin musk4 ,tonkin1 ,thibet1 or ,oriental musk1 ,yunnan musk 7,moschus tonquinensis1 or orientalis1 or transgangetanus7 is the best variety4 ,it comes from ,china1 ,tonkin1 and ,thibet4 ,it consists of sacs of a puffed-up appearance1 more roundish than longish1 varying in size1 being at the utmost #a4gg inches long1 up to #a4eg inches broad and #j4ei to #a4ah inches thick1 and weighing from #h4df drachms to #a oz4 #i4ci drachms each4 ,the hairy side of the sac is concave and the other flat4 ,fig4 #ba shows an unshorn ,tonkin musk sac of medium size from the concave or hairy side and ,fig4 #bb the same from the side4 ,the envelop of the sac consists of a double skin1 the outer skin being gray-brown4 ,one side of the sac is covered with stiff1 yellowish hair with red-brown points1 generally cut short4 ,the original packages1 containing usually #bd sacs each1 consist of longish1 four-cornered boxes lined with lead-foil and covered outside with some silken stuff4 ,each sac is separately wrapped in tissue paper4 ,the musk-substance appears as a dark red to black-brown mass intermingled with hair1 and forming roundish grains4 ,the odor is penetrating and the taste bitter4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bc4 ,kabardin1 ,siberian1 or ,russian musk 7,moschus sibirius1 or cabardinicus7 is a cheaper variety of an inferior quality1 which is brought from ,mongolia and ,siberia4 ,the sacs 7,fig4 #bc7 are longish1 generally pear-shaped1 flatter in proportion to their longitudinal and latitudinal dimensions1 and not of a puffed-up appearance1 the surface being frequently even shrivelled or wrinkled4 ,the outer skin is denser and harder1 and on the convex side covered with longer hair 7up to #j4i inch long71 of nearly a silver or brownish color4 ,towards the edge of the sac the hairs are1 however1 frequently so trimmed and shorn as to give the sac a resemblance to the ,tonkin article4 ,the musk-substance inclosed in the sac amounts to from #h4df drachms to #a oz4 ,it is somewhat paler1 more brown or yellow-brown1 soft1 almost unctuous1 when fresh1 but after storing1 solid or granular-pulverulent1 like ground1 burnt coffee4 ,the odor is weak1 offensive1 more urinose1 resembling that of castor1 or horse sweat4 ,moschus ex vesicis is said to be the musk taken from ,tonkin sacs4 ,as a rule1 however1 it consists of a mixture of musk substance taken from good sacs which present a bad appearance1 or have been torn1 and from sacs of an inferior quality1 frequently adulterated with foreign substances1 such as dried blood1 dung of birds1 weathered bicarbonate of soda1 etc4 ,to open a musk sac1 cut it with a sharp penknife around where the hairless side joints the hairy side1 and empty it by scraping it out upon a sheet of paper4 ,the membranes and hair are then removed by means of pincers4 ,the musk-substance of the ,tonkin sacs is generally a heavy1 dry-feeling mass2 it is partially intermingled with and partially enveloped by small1 thin1 soft1 brown1 somewhat transparent membranes and frequently mixed with small hair4 ,it is partially loose and crummy1 and partially consists of various lumps or grains of the size of a mustard seed to that of a pea1 which are more or less roundish1 more seldom angular1 softer or harder 7but can always be readily cut71 of a fatty lustre and black-brown or dark-red color4 ,in fresh sacs1 the mass is frequently soft1 and1 when bruised1 somewhat smeary1 but never unctuous4 ,on rubbing1 it becomes paler in color1 and glistening hair-like1 paler1 gray or whitishyellow particles1 sometimes of a crystalline texture1 appear4 ,the odor of the musk substance is peculiar1 strong1 and very constant2 it is agreeable only when much diluted4 ,musk is not a substance of a constant chemical and physical constitution1 the reason for this being found in the age and the different foods of the musk animal1 the season in which it is killed1 and the degree of dryness of the musk-substance4 ,water dissolves of good musk and #ij per cent4 alcohol 4 ,the alcoholic solution is not precipitated by water4 ,musk further contains fat-like substances1 wax1 gall-substances 7together #aj to #ab per cent471 glue-substances and albumen 7#f to #i per cent471 traces of lactic and butyric acids1 phosphates1 sulphates and hydrochlorates of the alkalies and alkaline earths1 frequently strong traces of ammonium carbonate and a volatile oil1 further moisture1 humus-substance1 and fibrous matter4 ,musk1 when dried1 has a weak odor1 which gradually becomes stronger on moistening4 ,there are several substances which destroy the musk odor1 especially bitter almonds1 camphor1 sulphur1 acids and sulphates4 ,the odor adhering to a mortar in which musk has been rubbed can best be removed by pounding bitter almonds in it4 ,since1 on account of the high price of musk1 the musk animal is much hunted1 there is a possibility of it becoming in time extinct4 ,for this reason a substitute has been long searched for1 and is believed to have been found1 especially1 in the ,american musk-rat 7,fiber zibethicus71 which is chiefly hunted for its skin4 ,in this animal the musk is found in two small sacs located between the anus and generative organs1 and is emitted when the animal becomes excited4 ,according to ,r4 ,s4 ,cristiani1 this musk is invaluable for the toilet soap industry of ,america1 it being nearly as good and strong as genuine musk4 ,cristiani has formerly used much of it for scenting soaps1 powders1 etc41 but does not recommend it for essences4 ,when used for soaps1 some time is required for the odor to become refined1 and if a piece of soap scented with it is stored for a few months1 it would1 according to ,cristiani's assertion1 be difficult even for an expert perfumer to distinguish the odor from that of genuine ,tonkin musk4 ,as possible substitutes for the musk deer may further be mentioned a species of rat indigenous to the ,west ,indies1 and an antelope of ,north ,africa4 ,it is also said that musk derived from the ,mississippi alligator has been brought into commerce4 ,the sacs are said to be small1 the odor somewhat different from that of genuine musk1 resembling that of civet1 but suitable for perfuming purposes4 ,a process for the preparation of artificial musk has been patented by ,dr4 ,baur1 of ,gispersleben4 ,according to the specification1 toluol is mixed with the halogen compounds of butane and boiled with the addition of aluminium chloride or aluminium bromide4 ,the product of the reaction is mixed with water and distilled with steam4 ,the fraction passing over between #cch and #cib ,f4 is caught and treated with fuming nitric acid and fuming sulphuric acid4 ,the product obtained is washed with water and alcohol1 and crystallized4 ,the artificial musk forms an amorphous white powder1 which in time becomes yellow4 ,it is readily soluble in #ij per cent4 alcohol1 but from solutions in weaker alcohol it again crystallizes out at a cool temperature4 ,the odor becomes very pronounced after the addition of #e drops of ammonia to #a pound of a one per cent4 solution4 ,this artificial product having been in existence but for a short time1 it is not possible to come to a final conclusion as to its availability4 ,however1 its odor differs essentially from that of the genuine article1 and it can scarcely be employed for fine extracts2 if low enough in price it might1 however1 be suitable for soaps and cheaper perfumes4 ,musk is very much adulterated1 the ,chinese being adepts in this sophistication4 ,dried blood1 on account of its resemblance to musk1 is among the most common adulterations1 but1 besides this1 sand1 iron filings1 hair1 the dung of birds1 wax1 asphaltum1 and many other substances are introduced4 ,they are mixed with a small portion of musk1 the powerful odor of which is communicated to the entire mass1 and renders the discovery of the fraud sometimes difficult4 ,the bags containing the musk should have the characteristics before described as belonging to the natural sac1 and present no sign of having been opened4 ,one of the grossest frauds1 which is also perpetrated in ,europe1 consists1 according to ,hager1 in perforating the musk sac with a needle1 placing it in strong rum or weak spirit of wine1 and1 after pressing it with the fingers1 washing with spirit of wine and drying in the air4 ,by this means a tincture suitable for perfuming purposes is obtained1 while the musk-substance is increased in weight by the absorption of moisture4 ,sacs thus treated are1 however1 readily recognized1 they being1 after drying1 gnarled and uneven4 ,good musk-sacs should yield from #ej to #fj per cent4 of musk4 ,an admixture of blood is detected by the musk acquiring a putrid odor when moistened with water4 ,the presence of pieces of metal1 pebbles1 resin1 etc41 is recognized by the naked eye or with the assistance of a magnifying glass4 ,the microscope reveals1 in pure musk1 white and brownish1 irregularly-formed grains1 cells1 oil drops1 and1 generally1 also fungoid threads4 ,genuine musk burns with a white flame and leaves a gray ash1 which should not amount to more than from #e to #h per cent4 ,in perfumery musk is used for soap1 sachet powders1 and extracts4 ,by itself it is1 however1 scarcely employed1 not even for the so-called musk soaps or musk extracts4 ,it is chiefly valued by the perfumer for its property of rendering other perfumes used in combination with it more durable and bringing out their scent4 ,for scenting soaps the musk must first be prepared4 ,if to be used for milled soaps1 it is triturated in a mortar with clear sugar1 while for cold stirred soaps1 weak potash lye of at the utmost #c to #e ,b4 is poured over it4 ,weak lye makes the odor more pronounced1 while strong lye destroys it4 ,civet 7zibethum7 is derived from two animals of the genus ,viverra4 ,the actual civet cat 7,viverra civetta1 ,l47 lives in the hottest parts of ,africa from the ,guinea ,coast and the ,senegal to ,abyssinia1 where it is carefully bred for its civet4 ,the product is also obtained from ,viverra zibetha1 ,l41 indigenous to the ,moluccas and ,philippines4 ,the civet is secreted in a cavity between the anus and the external genitals1 and is scraped out with a spoon4 ,it is semi-liquid1 unctuous1 yellowish1 becoming brown and thicker by exposure to the air1 of a bitter1 disagreeable1 fatty taste1 and of a peculiar1 urinose1 disagreeable odor1 resembling that of musk which becomes agreeable only when much diluted and mixed with other perfumes4 ,when ignited it burns with a bright flame1 leaving behind #c to #d per cent4 of ash4 ,it is insoluble in water2 in spirit of wine it partially dissolves with difficulty1 and with greater ease in warm ether and in chloroform4 ,it should form a homogeneous1 non-crumbling mass4 ,according to ,m4 ,boutron ,chalard1 it contains free ammonia1 stearin1 olein1 mucus1 resin1 a yellow coloring substance1 salts1 and a volatile oil1 the latter giving the odor to it4 ,in perfumery1 civet is chiefly used as an addition to other perfumes in order to strengthen them and make them more constant4 ,it is also employed for perfuming fine leather articles4 ,castor or castoreum is a peculiar concrete substance obtained from ,castor fiber or the beaver4 ,in both sexes between the anus and external genitals are two pear-shaped sac-like follicles 7,fig4 #bd7 united at their thin ends4 ,the follicles contain1 when fresh1 a semi-liquid substance which becomes more solid by drying4 ,the castor occurring in commerce is generally dried by smoke4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bd4 ,in commerce two principal varieties are distinguished3 ,siberian or ,russian and ,canadian1 ,english or ,american castor1 the first being the most valuable4 ,the length of a ,siberian sac varies between #b4cf and #d4gb inches1 the width between #j4ih and #b4ee inches1 and the thickness between #j4gh and #a4eg inches2 it weighs from #a4gf to #h4ha ozs4 ,one of the sacs is generally somewhat smaller than the other4 ,the exterior skin of the sac is almost smooth and1 in a dry state1 dark brown2 the interior is dirty yellow1 intermixed with a dense cellular tissue1 which envelops the castor-substance and is grown together with it4 ,in a dried state1 the latter is dark brown1 without lustre1 almost friable1 of a very strong1 peculiar odor1 and a pungent1 somewhat bitter1 aromatic taste4 ,the sacs of ,canadian castor are smaller than the ,siberian1 they being at the utmost #c4ae inches long1 #j4ih inch thick1 and darker and uneven4 ,the interior mass is resinous1 hard1 with a lustrous fracture1 red-brown1 and can be readily pulverized4 ,the odor is weaker1 somewhat musty and ammoniacal1 and the taste more bitter and less pungent than that of the ,siberian castor4 ,castor is much adulterated--pebbles1 pieces of lead1 dried blood1 etc41 being frequently found in the sacs4 ,these frauds can generally be detected in cutting the sac open4 ,spurious sacs are said to be frequently found among the genuine sacs of ,canadian castor4 ,these spurious sacs are prepared by drying a mixture of castor1 resin1 dragons' blood1 etc41 in the scrotum of goats4 ,in perfumery1 castor is now very seldom used1 the perfumers preferring musk and civet1 which1 certainly1 give a somewhat different scent4 ,ambergris is a fatty1 waxy substance1 often found floating on the sea on the coasts of ,arabia1 ,madagascar1 ,japan1 etc4 ,it is also found in the ccum of the sperm whale 7,physetus macrocephalus1 ,schow71 and is supposed by some to be a morbid secretion in the urinary bladder4 ,according to ,mr4 ,beale1 it merely consists of the indurated fces of the animal1 perhaps somewhat altered by disease4 ,it has a gray-white color1 often with a black streak and a slight agreeable odor1 like that of benzoin1 which becomes more pronounced on heating4 ,when held for some time in the hand it becomes soft and flexible4 ,it melts at the temperature of boiling water1 and1 when more strongly heated1 volatilizes in the form of a white vapor1 leaving but slight traces of ash behind4 ,its specific gravity is #j4h to #j4i4 ,it is insoluble in water1 sparingly soluble in cold spirit of wine1 and more readily so in hot spirit of wine1 ether and volatile and fat oils4 ,it is almost completely soluble in absolute alcohol4 ,though ambergris crumbles readily1 it can only with difficulty be converted into coarse powder4 ,with the finger it can be polished like hard soda-soap4 ,the principal constituent of ambergris is ambrin or ambrein1 a non-saponifiable fat1 which1 from a saturated alcoholic solution of ambergris1 crystallizes1 after standing for some time1 in the form of verrucose1 whitish or lustrous acicular crystals4 ,according to ,john1 ambergris consists of #he per cent4 ambrin1 #ab4e per cent4 sweet balsamic extract1 further benzoic acid1 sodium chloride1 and #a4e per cent4 insoluble brown residue4 ,when distilled with water1 ambergris yields #ac per cent4 of a volatile oil having an agreeable odor4 ,a red-hot iron wire readily penetrates ambergris1 and from the hole thus made flows an oily liquid of a strong and agreeable odor4 ,on account of its high price1 ambergris is frequently adulterated1 the commercial article being often nothing but an artificial mixture of benzoin1 olibanum1 wax1 and flour1 with other substances1 perfumed with musk4 ,such adulterations are detected by the appearance1 proportions of solubility1 nature of the fracture and the content of ash4 ,a small quantity of pure ambergris1 exposed to heat1 melts without forming bubbles or scum4 ,it is easily punctured with a heated needle1 which1 when withdrawn1 should come out clean and without anything adhering to it1 and the characteristic odor of ambergris should be immediately evolved4 ,the surface should be rugged1 that with a smooth and uniform surface being generally factitious4 ,in perfumery1 ambergris is not so much used on account of its agreeable odor1 but rather to make the perfumes more constant4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,artificial ,,perfume-,,materials4 ,in speaking of the volatile oils used in perfumery1 two artificial perfume-materials1 artificial oils of bitter almonds and wintergreen have already been mentioned4 ,there can be no doubt that when the chemical construction of volatile oils is better known1 chemistry will succeed in preparing still more such combinations1 valuable for perfumery1 or in converting cheap volatile oils into more valuable ones1 as has1 for instance1 been done by ,bouchardat and ,lafont1 who have successfully converted oil of turpentine into oil of lemons4 ,these chemists rectified ,french oil of turpentine at exactly #caa to #cad4f ,f41 dissolved in the distillate1 which amounted to #abj grammes1 an equal quantity 7#abj grammes7 of glacial acetic acid1 cooled the mixture and then carefully added1 so that the temperature never exceeded #ajd ,f41 #hh grammes of crystallized chromic acid dissolved in a sufficient quantity of acetic acid4 ,notwithstanding that the greater portion of the oil of turpentine remained unoxidized1 a thorough reaction took place1 and the product of decomposition proved to be a hydrocarbon1 boiling at from #cde4b to #ceb4d ,f41 to which ,bouchardat and ,lafont have applied the term terpilene4 ,the properties of this hydrocarbon1 especially its boiling point1 corresponded with those of oil of lemons1 its odor also resembling that of the latter1 but it contained about one-sixth cymol which it was impossible to remove4 ,though thus far this artificial oil of lemons is of no importance for perfumery1 it is of interest as showing the possibility of converting one volatile oil into another4 ,the artificial musk1 spoken of under ,musk1 cannot be classed with the previously-mentioned artificial perfumed-materials4 ,the odoriferous principle of the natural and artificial musk have nothing in common1 the odor depending not on a common chemical combination4 ,besides the artificial perfume-materials already mentioned1 but a few others are employed in perfumery1 viz3 ,cumarin1 heliotropin1 vanillin1 and nitrobenzol1 or oil of mirbane4 ,another series of artificial perfume-materials1 the so-called fruit ethers1 have also been recommended for perfumery purposes4 ,although such products are sometimes used1 their employment is not advisable1 since they produce an irritating effect upon the bronchial tubes and respiratory organs1 and frequently cause headache4 ,cumarin4--,the agreeable odor of new-mown hay is chiefly due to the sweet-scented vernal grass 7,anthoxanthum odoratum1 ,l474 ,this grass contains an odoriferous substance1 the cumarin4 ,the latter is also found in many other plants2 for instance1 in the tonka bean 7the seeds of ,dipterix odorata71 in the sweet woodruff 7,asperula odorata71 and1 combined with melilotic acid1 in the melilot 7,melilotus officinalis1 ,descr474 ,cumarin forms small1 colorless crystals of a silky lustre4 ,it is very hard1 cracks between the teeth1 shows a smooth fracture1 and sinks in water4 ,it has a very agreeable aromatic odor1 which1 on rubbing the substance with the fingers1 becomes like that of oil of bitter almonds1 and has a bitter1 warm1 and pungent taste4 ,when pure it melts at #aeb4f ,f41 but when containing fat1 like that separated from tonka beans1 at from #ajd to #abb ,f4 ,its boiling point lies at #eed ,f42 it volatilizes1 however1 at far lower temperatures1 diffusing an odor resembling that of oil of bitter almonds1 and sublimating in white needles4 ,it is soluble in alcohol1 ether1 acetic acid1 fat1 and volatile oils4 ,of cold water 7#ei ,f47 #djj parts are1 according to ,buchner1 required for its solution1 but of boiling water only #de parts4 ,tonka beans are the ripe seeds of ,dipterix odorata4 ,they are much used in perfumery on account of their content of cumarin1 and formerly constituted the initial point for its manufacture4 ,in commerce two varieties are distinguished1 viz41 ,dutch tonka beans1 derived from ,dipterix odorata1 ,willd41 indigenous to the forests of ,guiana1 and ,english tonka beans1 from ,dipterix oppositifolia1 ,willd41 indigenous to ,cayenne4 ,the ,dutch tonka bean is #a4ah to #a4eg inches long1 #j4ci to ,o4#ei inch wide1 and ,o4#bg to ,o4#dc inch thick4 ,it is generally slightly curved1 provided under the point with the hilum1 and covered with a thin1 fragile1 brown-black or black skin of a fatty lustre1 upon which small crystals of cumarin are generally found1 so that it appears coated1 especially in the wrinkles1 with a whitish dust4 ,the kernel consists of two yellow-brownish oleiferous catyledons1 between which layers of cumarin are generally found4 ,the odor is agreeable1 resembling that of melilot1 and the taste aromatic bitter4 ,dutch tonka beans contain fat1 sugar1 malic acid1 and malate of lime2 further1 starch1 gum1 and #a to #e per cent4 of cumarin 7,c#i;,h#f,o#b74 ,the ,english tonka beans are smaller1 white-yellowish inside1 nearly black outside1 and of inferior quality to the ,dutch beans4 ,from tonka beans1 cumarin may be obtained by two different methods4 ,one method consists in repeatedly extracting the bruised beans with spirit of wine1 distilling the latter off from the extract1 and mixing the residue with cold water1 whereby cumarin contaminated with fat is precipitated4 ,to remove the fat1 bring the whole to the boiling point1 filter the hot solution through a moist filter upon which the fat is retained1 and allow to cool1 whereby the greater portion of the cumarin crystallizes out2 the remaining small portion is obtained by evaporating the mother-lye4 ,according to the other method1 the bruised tonka beans are distilled with water4 ,after #bd hours the greater portion of the cumarin separates in a crystalline form4 ,the residue remaining in solution can be withdrawn from the water by shaking with petroleum-ether and subsequent evaporation of the solvent4 ,from one pound of good tonka beans1 up to #d drachms of cumarin may be obtained4 ,cumarin is sometimes also obtained by purifying by recrystallization of the dbris found in the original boxes of tonka beans1 which chiefly consists of cumarin4 ,perkin has recently succeeded in artificially preparing cumarin from salicylic acid4 ,by boiling the sodium salt of the latter in acetic anhydride for a few minutes and then pouring into water1 an oil-like body is separated1 whilst sodium acetate passes into solution4 ,the former is a mixture of acetic anhydride1 salicylic acid and cumarin2 in distilling1 the latter passes over last 7at #eed ,f471 and congeals in the receiver to a crystalline mass4 ,cumarin is now synthetically prepared by several firms1 that brought into the market by ,schimmel ,co41 of ,leipsic1 especially being of excellent quality4 ,although artificial cumarin is considerably lower in price than that obtained from tonka beans1 most perfumers still prefer the extract from tonka beans prepared by themselves4 ,there is1 however1 no good reason for this1 since a change in the respective receipts for perfumes presents no difficulties1 #h4df drachms of cumarin corresponding to #b4b lbs4 of best tonka beans4 ,heliotropin or piperonal is of great importance in the manufacture of perfumes4 ,it forms small1 colorless prismatic crystals1 which have an agreeable odor of hliotrope4 ,upon the tongue heliotropin produces the same sensation as oil of peppermint under the same conditions1 the sensation being1 however1 more lasting4 ,it melts at about #ajd ,f41 and volatilizes at a higher temperature without leaving a residue4 ,it is soluble in alcohol and ether1 and insoluble in cold water2 in hot water it melts to an oily liquid which floats upon the water4 ,exposed to the action of heat and air1 heliotropin acquires an uncomely appearance1 balls together and1 under very unfavorable circumstances1 turns brown4 ,it is then entirely decomposed and useless1 and1 hence1 should be kept in summer in as cool a place as possible4 ,a temperature of #ie ,f4 has already an injurious effect upon the perfume1 and it is best not to buy it at all in the hot summer months4 ,to preserve the perfume in its entire freshness1 it is advisable for consumers in hot climates to at once dissolve the heliotropin in alcohol and to keep the solution in a cool place4 ,pepper serves as the initial point for heliotropin or piperonal1 the white variety being the best for the purpose4 ,to obtain piperine1 contained in varying qualities 7#g to #i per cent47 in pepper1 the latter is repeatedly extracted with boiling alcohol4 ,the extract is then evaporated to one-third its volume1 or the greater portion of the alcohol is distilled off1 and the resinous mass1 obtained after the addition of water1 is repeatedly washed in water with the addition of a small quantity of potash or soda lye1 dissolved in alcohol and purified by repeated recrystallization4 ,to convert the white-yellow piperine thus obtained into potassium piperate it is1 together with equal parts of potassium hydroxide and #e to #f parts of alcohol1 kept gently boiling for #bd hours in a well-closed flask provided with an ascending ,liebig cooler4 ,a capacious flask should be used1 as the mass pounds quite vigorously4 ,after cooling1 the precipitate1 which is obtained in yellowish1 lustrous lamina1 is separated through a filter from the dark-brown mother-lye1 washed with cold alcohol and several times recrystallized from hot water4 ,a further discoloration may be effected by the addition of animal charcoal4 ,the potassium piperate thus obtained forms nearly colorless prisms in verucose groups1 which1 however1 turn yellow when exposed to light4 ,by boiling the alcoholic mother-lye with of the previously used potash-lye1 further small quantities of potassium piperate may be obtained4 ,to obtain piperonal from the potassium piperate1 dissolve #a part of the latter in #dj to #ej parts of hot water1 and then slowly introduce1 with constant stirring1 a solution of #b parts potassium permanganate in #ej parts of water4 ,this precaution is absolutely necessary1 as otherwise the piperonal formed would be partially further oxidized and lost4 ,the paste-like mass formed is passed1 while still hot1 through a straining cloth1 and the residue repeatedly washed with boiling water until it shows nothing more of the characteristic odor of hliotrope4 ,the wash-waters are combined with the first filtrate1 and subjected to distillation over a free fire4 ,the first distillates are richest in piperonal1 it generally separating already in the cooler4 ,the fractionally caught distillate is allowed to stand one or two days in as cool a place as possible1 whereby the greater portion of the piperonal separates in a crystalline form or in fine lamina4 ,to obtain the piperonal still remaining dissolved in the water1 the mother-lye1 after the separation of the crystals through a filter1 may be repeatedly agitated with ether1 whereby the piperonal dissolves in the ether4 ,the latter is carefully distilled off at as low a temperature as possible 7#ajd to #abb ,f47 in the water-bath or allowed naturally to evaporate4 ,vanillin4--,vanilla is the not entirely ripe1 pod-like1 capsular fruit 7wrongly called pod71 of a tropical orchid 7,vanilla planifolia1 ,andrews71 which is cultivated in ,mexico1 the ,west ,indies1 and ,south ,america4 ,it is extensively used for flavoring1 and its odoriferous substance is highly valued in perfumery4 ,the cross-section of the capsule is thick and fleshy1 filled with very small1 black1 lustrous seeds stuck together by a gummy balsam with which they are coated4 ,the capsule has a sourish taste and has no value1 the seeds1 or rather the balsam enveloping the seeds1 being the substance on which the odor and taste of vanilla depend4 ,when the vanilla fruit becomes ripe1 the capsule opens and empties its content of seeds in the form of a balsam-like mass4 ,the lustrous black-brown surface of vanilla is frequently coated with white1 delicate crystals1 which were formerly taken for benzoic acid4 ,bley and ,vee first recognized them as a peculiar substance1 which was further examined by ,gobley and ,stokkebye4 ,this substance1 to which ,gobley applied the term vanillin1 is the chief odoriferous substance of vanilla4 ,it is deposited upon the vanilla-crystals1 when the latter are densely and closely packed together and for some time exposed to a heat of about #gg ,f4 ,of vanillin1 vanilla contains #a4e to #b4ge per cent42 the ,mexican variety containing #a4fi to #a4cb per cent41 the ,bourbon ,no4 ,i1 #b4dh to #a4ia per cent41 ,bourbon ,no4 ,,ii1 #a4ee to #j4ge per cent41 and the ,java1 #b4ge to #a4ef per cent4 ,it is singular1 that the highly valued ,mexican vanilla has1 generally speaking1 a lower content of vanillin than the other varieties4 ,at present1 vanillin is prepared artificially4 ,tiemann and ,harmann first showed that by the oxidation of coniferin1 a glucoside occurring in the cambial sap of the ,conifer1 a product1 perfectly identical with the vanillin prepared from vanilla1 is obtained4 ,the coniferin is obtained by barking the pine or silver fir1 scraping together the sap under the bark together with a portion of the liber and pouring it into a vessel4 ,the sap is then pressed off1 boiled to separate the albumin1 filtered1 evaporated to one-fifth its volume1 and set aside to crystallize4 ,one hundred quarts of sap are said to yield from #a to #b pounds of coniferin-crystals4 ,by now allowing an aqueous coniferin-solution to run into a heated mixture of #aj parts potassium bichromate1 #ae parts concentrated sulphuric acid1 and #hj parts water1 and heating for #c hours in a flask with back-flow cooler1 a liquid is obtained from which ether takes up a yellow oil4 ,after treating the latter with animal charcoal1 dissolving in ether and evaporating the latter1 there remain colorless1 acicular crystals of the odor and taste of vanilla4 ,these crystals consist of vanillin contaminated with some vanillic acid4 ,to separate the latter1 purify with acid sodium sulphite and recrystallize4 ,after this operation1 vanillin represents a nearly white crystalline powder which melts at from #agf to #agg4h ,f4 ,in this form it is brought into commerce as a complete substitute for vanilla1 #e4fd drachms of it corresponding to about #a pound of vanilla4 ,a medium-sized pine tree is said to yield vanillin of the value of #hj marks 7#ai4bj74 ,vanillin may also be prepared by oxidation from eugenol4 ,oil of cloves is diluted with three times its volume of ether and agitated with weak caustic potash solution to fix the eugenol on the potash4 ,by acidulating the alkaline solution and shaking with ether1 the eugenol is collected4 ,after distilling off the ether1 the eugenol is converted with acetic anhydride into aceteugol1 and the latter oxidized with dilute1 moderately-warmed potassium permanganate solution4 ,the filtrate is made slightly alkaline1 concentrated1 then compounded with acid and the vanillin extracted with ether4 ,vanillin 7,c#h;,h#h,o#c7 forms small colorless prisms of a strong vanilla odor1 a warm1 vanilla taste1 and an acid reaction4 ,it is readily soluble in hot water1 alcohol1 ether1 chloroform1 fat and volatile oils1 as well as in solutions of caustic alkalies and alkaline carbonates4 ,it melts when heated to from #agf to #agg4h ,f42 at a higher temperature it sublimates without leaving a residue4 ,according to a notice published in the ,deutsch-,amerikanischen ,apotheker ,zeitung1 vanillin adulterated with benzoic acid has occurred in the ,united ,states4 ,a sample subjected to examination is said to have been nothing but benzoic acid perfumed with vanillin4 ,such an adulteration can be detected with the microscope1 since vanillin crystallizes in acicular crystals1 and benzoic acid in lamina1 which can be readily recognized4 ,pure vanillin melts at #agf ,f41 while the melting points of such mixtures are considerably higher1 it being in one case at #bdi ,f4 ,by extracting such mixture with thin sodium carbonate solution1 benzoic acid passes into solution4 ,after neutralizing with hydrochloric acid1 the filtrate yields with ferric chloride a fawn-brown precipitate of ferric benzoate1 and on adding hydrochloric acid in excess1 the benzoic acid1 which dissolves with great difficulty in cold water1 is precipitated4 ,by treating the latter1 or the ferric benzoate1 with dilute sulphuric acid and magnesium1 the benzoic acid is reduced to benzaldehyde1 which is recognized by its characteristic odor of oil of bitter almonds4 ,nitrobenzol is obtained by treating benzol1 or a mixture of it1 with toluol and their higher homologues1 with strong nitric acid1 or a mixture of nitric and sulphuric acids1 washing the product of reaction with water and soda1 caustic soda or ammonia1 expelling the unaltered hydrocarbons with steam and rectifying the residue4 ,three varieties distinguished by their boiling points and odor occur in commerce4 ,the nitrobenzol or oil of mirbane 7essence de mirbane7 is the so-called light nitrobenzol1 which boils at from #dja to #dae ,f4 ,the heavier varieties boil at a higher temperature and have a more or less disagreeable odor2 they are used in the manufacture of aniline and aniline colors4 ,pure oil of mirbane is pale yellow1 the finest qualities being colorless and almost as clear as water4 ,it has an agreeable odor resembling that of oil of bitter almonds1 a specific gravity of #a4ahf to #a4b #be ,b41 and congeals at #cg4d ,f4 to a crystalline mass4 ,it is scarcely soluble in water1 sparingly so in alcohol and with difficulty in watery spirit of wine2 it is miscible in all proportions with ether1 benzine1 volatile oils1 and most fat oils4 ,oil of mirbane is largely manufactured in ,england1 but the ,german product is now generally preferred1 it being purer and does not impart to soap perfumed with it a yellowish tinge4 ,the finest oil of mirbane is prepared from pure crystallizable benzol1 and again purified by washing with potassium bichromate and sulphuric acid1 and by rectification with steam4 ,pure nitrobenzol suffers no change by boiling with soda lye1 while the poorly rectified product colors the lye yellow or brown4 ,nitrobenzol is frequently adulterated with spirit of wine1 which is recognized by shaking the oil with fat oil of almonds2 in the presence of spirit of wine a turbid mixture is formed4 ,by shaking nitrobenzol containing spirit of wine with an equal volume of water in a graduated cylinder1 its volume decreases4 ,oil of mirbane is much used for perfuming soaps1 but even the finest quality of it cannot replace oil of bitter almonds for fine soaps and perfumery4 ,great care has to be exercised in storing1 as well as in working1 nitrobenzol1 it igniting very readily1 and it is also poisonous4 ,even the vapors1 when inhaled for some time1 may produce symptoms of poisoning1 which consist in the skin acquiring a leaden color1 and heavy feelings in the limbs with cold extremities1 especially the hands and feet4 ,,fruit ,,ethers4 ,at the ,london ,exhibition1 in #ahea1 various products called apple oil1 pear oil1 pine-apple oil1 etc41 were shown4 ,they were examined by ,a4 ,w4 ,hofmann1 and found to consist of solutions of certain ethers in alcohol4 ,since then the manufacture has greatly increased and large quantities are now brought into commerce under the name of fruit ethers or fruit essences4 ,fruit ethers are fluids possessing an agreeable1 refreshing odor closely resembling that of some fruits4 ,for this reason they are used in confectionery1 in the manufacture of liqueurs and also as a substitute for volatile oils1 in the manufacture of perfumery4 ,chemically1 fruit ethers are combinations of an organic acid--acetic1 butyric1 valerianic1 etc4--with a so-called alcohol radicle1 such as ethyl and amyl4 ,the preparation of fruit ethers being connected with many difficulties1 is seldom attempted by perfumers1 especially as products of an excellent quality can at a low rate be procured from chemical laboratories making a specialty of their manufacture4 ,however1 for the sake of completeness1 a brief description of the fabrication of the principal ethers used in their preparation shall here be given4 ,acetic amyl ether or amyl acetate1 ,c#e;,h#aa,o4,c#b;,h#c,o1 is prepared by mixing #a part of amyl alcohol with #a part of concentrated sulphuric acid1 and distilling the mixture with #b parts of potassium acetate4 ,the distillate is washed with water1 to which some carbonate of soda has been added1 and then rectified over magnesia4 ,it forms a colorless liquid of an agreeable fruity odor4 ,it boils1 according to ,kopp1 at #bhj ,f4 and1 at #ei ,f41 its specific gravity is #j4hfib4 ,for use in perfumery1 the ether is best prepared1 according to ,fehling's directions1 by heating for some time at a temperature of #bab ,f4 #a part of glacial acetic acid with part of sulphuric acid and one part of amyl alcohol4 ,by then adding water the ether is separated4 ,by this process distillation is avoided4 ,acetic ethyl ether or ethyl acetate1 ,c#b;,h#c,o4,o4,c#b;,h#e4 ,acetic ether is formed by the decomposition of sodium acetate by ethyl sulphuric acid3-- ,,so#b ,,oc#b;,h#e ,c#b;,h#c,o4,o,na ,,oh --------- ------------ ,ethyl sulphuric ,sodium acetate4 acid4 ,,so#b ,o,na ,c#b;,h#c,o4,,oc#b;,h#e ,,oh ---- ------------------- ,acid sodium ,acetic ether4 sulphate4 ,one molecule of sulphuric acid or #ih parts is mixed with one molecule of alcohol or #df parts1 or with #a molecule of alcohol of #ij per cent4 which contains #he4ge per cent4 of absolute alcohol1 hence with #ec4f parts of alcohol1 and distilled with #a molecule or #hb parts of anhydrous sodium acetate4 ,since commercial sulphuric acid always contains #e or #f per cent4 of water1 this has to be taken into consideration1 and #aje to #ajf parts of it have to be used in order to decompose the entire quantity of sodium acetate4 ,the crude sodium acetate found in commerce may be used4 ,it is nearly white and at the utmost contaminated by traces of sulphuric acid and chlorine1 which in this case are not injurious4 ,the crystallized salt is heated in an iron kettle whereby it melts in its water of crystallization4 ,with constant stirring the water is then completely evaporated until an entirely dry mass of salt remains behind4 ,the latter may be quite strongly heated without fear of destroying the acetic acid4 ,the dried salt is immediately powdered1 passed through a medium fine sieve and kept for use in well-closed vessels4 ,on a large scale the distillation of the ether may be effected in an iron kettle1 which is provided with a well-fitting lid and connected by a copper head with a cooling apparatus--a worm lying in cold water4 ,bring into the kettle the required quantity of concentrated sulphuric acid1 add1 with vigorous stirring1 the alcohol and allow the mixture to rest for #bd hours4 ,then throw the dry sodium acetate into the mixture1 mix it thoroughly1 by stirring1 with the ethyl sulphuric acid1 and1 after luting all the joints of the apparatus1 heat at first moderately4 ,distillation proceeds quietly and uniformly1 the fire being regulated according to how the ether runs off from the worm4 ,such uniform distillation is1 however1 only attained by the use of the sodium acetate in the form of powder1 and thoroughly mixing it with the acid4 ,if large pieces of the salt are present or the powdered salt balls together1 the formation of ether sometimes takes place so suddenly that the vapors cannot condense in the cooling apparatus1 but escape violently1 or if they cannot escape rapidly from the condenser1 may even burst the apparatus4 ,the reason for this is that the larger pieces float in the superheated acid without being saturated by it1 and1 when they suddenly collapse1 form a mass of ether-vapors4 ,distillation is continued until that which at last passes over is not inflammable4 ,with the above-mentioned proportions #hh parts of acetic ether are formed1 but as some water always passes over1 distillation need not be interrupted until the receiver contains at least #ij parts of crude ether4 ,the crude ether always contains more or less water1 some alcohol1 and a small quantity of free acetic acid4 ,with the above-mentioned proportions1 the content of alcohol can1 however1 be only very small4 ,to neutralize the acetic acid1 add some burnt magnesia or shake with carbonate of soda solution until the acid reaction disappears4 ,for the absorption of the water and alcohol1 add as much sharply dried 7not fused7 calcium chloride as the fluid will dissolve1 and then let it stand with an excess of the salt for one day4 ,the calcium chloride combines with the water and alcohol and separates as a heavy layer beneath the ether4 ,the latter is decanted off and brought into a rectifying vessel--a copper still1 heated by steam1 and provided with a cooling pipe4 ,the ether is distilled off at a moderate heat1 the last portion1 about #a_/aj1 being caught in a special receiver1 to be again rectified at the next operation4 ,according to ,grossschopf1 #dj lbs4 of pulverized anhydrous sodium acetate1 together with a cooled mixture of #df lbs4 of concentrated sulphuric acid and #cg lbs4 of #ie per cent4 alcohol1 free from fusel oil1 are distilled in a copper still heated by steam4 ,distillation is continued with constant stirring by means of an apparatus in the still1 until no more fluid smelling and tasting of acetic ether passes over4 ,the crude distillate1 amounting to #ee or #ef lbs41 is brought into bottles which are filled full4 ,the bottles are then filled up with water and potassium carbonate is added until the fluid1 after shaking1 shows no acid reaction4 ,the aqueous fluid beneath the ether is then drawn off by means of a siphon1 and the ether several times washed by shaking with water and allowing to settle4 ,since the wash-water absorbs a quite considerable quantity of ether1 it is collected and subjected to rectification1 whereby an alcoholic acetic ether is obtained4 ,the ether1 being freed from acetic acid and alcohol by neutralization and washing1 is brought in contact with fused calcium chloride to free it from water1 and finally rectified over magnesia4 ,in this manner #cf to #cg lbs4 of pure acetic ether are obtained4 ,acetic ether is a clear1 colorless fluid of a pleasant1 etheral odor4 ,it boils at #agj4f ,f41 and at #ei ,f4 its specific gravity is #j4ijfh4 ,pure acetic ether dissolves in #aa to #ab parts of water2 a content of alcohol or the addition of water increases its solubility4 ,hence1 its solubility in water is a criterion of its purity4 ,benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate1 ,c#g;,h#e,o4,,oc#b;,h#e1 is most readily prepared by mixing #d parts of alcohol1 #b parts of crystallized benzoic acid1 and #a part fuming hydrochloric acid1 and for some time heating the mixture in a flask4 ,the benzoic acid is thereby gradually and completely converted into ether4 ,the fluid is mixed with water1 whereby the ether is completely separated4 ,it is several times washed with carbonate of soda solution1 and1 for the purpose of withdrawing the last trace of free acid1 distilled over lead oxide4 ,it forms a colorless oil of an aromatic odor1 specific gravity #a4jejb1 and boils at #dab ,f4 ,in cold water it is insoluble4 ,however1 like all varieties of ether1 it dissolves readily in alcohol and ether4 ,butyric ethyl ether or ethyl butyrate1 ,c#d;,h#g,o4,,oc#b;,h#e4 ,the preparation of this ether must be preceded by that of butyric acid4 ,the latter is obtained1 according to ,bensch1 by dissolving #f lbs4 of cane sugar and #h drachms of tartaric acid in #ac quarts of hot water1 allowing the liquid to stand a few days and then adding #g ozs4 of old rotten cheese1 which has been stirred up in #d quarts of skimmed sour milk and #c lbs4 of finely pulverized chalk4 ,the mixture must be kept at a uniform temperature of from #hf to #ie ,f4 for some weeks1 from time to time mixing it by stirring1 and replacing the water lost by evaporation4 ,by the action of a ferment the sugar is first converted into lactic acid4 ,in #aj to #ab days the entire mass congeals to a paste of calcium lactate4 ,by now allowing fermentation to proceed without interruption1 it gradually enters another stage2 gas bubbles consisting of carbonic acid and hydrogen rise up1 until in the course of #e or #f weeks the process is finished4 ,this is recognized by the fluid becoming quiet1 no more gas being evolved4 ,the fluid then contains a solution of calcium lactate1 which is converted into the corresponding sodium salt by the addition of #h lbs4 of crystallized soda4 ,it is then filtered and concentrated by evaporation to #e quarts4 ,by adding #e lbs4 of sulphuric acid1 diluted with an equal volume of water1 butyric acid is separated as a dark-colored oily mass4 ,the crude butyric acid thus obtained and freed from water by shaking with calcium chloride1 is a mixture of acetic1 butyric1 and capric acids1 but does not contain propionic and valerianic acids4 ,to obtain from it pure butyric acid1 fractional distillation is required4 ,for manufacturing on a large scale1 a copper distilling apparatus with silver head and silver cooling pipe is used1 the bulb of a thermometer being placed in the head4 ,in the first rectification1 the receiver is changed after the thermometer has risen to #caa ,f42 the portion passing over between #caa and #cbi ,f4 is caught up by itself1 and the receiver being again changed1 distillation is continued until finished4 ,the first distillate contains mostly acetic acid1 besides a small quantity of butyric acid1 the second the greater portion of the butyric acid besides a little acetic and capric acids1 while the third consists chiefly of capric acid4 ,for preparing butyric ether for technical purposes1 the fraction passing over between #caa and #cbi ,f4 is sufficiently pure4 ,to obtain chemically pure butyric acid1 the rectification of the portion passing over between #caa and #cbi ,f4 is in the same manner repeated1 until finally a product with a constant boiling point at #cbd4b ,f4 is obtained4 ,butyric acid fermentation proceeds more rapidly by using1 instead of rotten cheese1 putrefying meat1 and in place of sugar1 starch paste or mashed boiled potatoes1 #a part of meat to #d parts of starch or a corresponding quantity of potatoes being employed4 ,the same products are formed as in the preceding process1 but much more rapidly1 fermentation being finished1 according to ,schubert1 in #e to #f days4 ,butyric acid1 ,c#d;,h#g,o4,,oh1 or ,c#c;,h#g;,,cooh1 is a liquid of a very sour taste and odor1 and at an intense cold congeals to a crystalline mass which melts at #cb ,f4 ,in a pure state it boils at #cbd4b ,f4 ,it is soluble in water1 but separates again if soluble salts are added to this solution4 ,its specific gravity1 after being completely freed from water1 is #j4igd4 ,besides the normal butyric acid1 there is known another one called isobutyric' acid or dimethyl acetic acid4 ,it is distinguished from the normal acid by being less soluble in water and by its boiling point1 which lies at #cji4b ,f4 ,it occurs in ,st4 ,john's bread or carob1 in the volatile oil from ,arnica montana and in croton oil4 ,butyric ether is formed by mixing #b parts of butyric acid with #b parts of alcohol and #a part of sulphuric acid4 ,the fluid is heated to #agf ,f41 and1 after being for several hours kept at that temperature1 is poured into cold water1 whereby the ether separates as an oily fluid4 ,it is then separated from the aqueous solution1 washed with water to which some chalk has been added for the neutralization of the free acid1 and finally the water is withdrawn from the ether by1 for several days1 leaving it in contact with calcium chloride4 ,to obtain it entirely pure1 it is only necessary to distil it once4 ,it forms a clear1 very mobile fluid of a pine-apple odor1 and a specific gravity of #j4ijj4 ,it boils at #bdi4h ,f4 ,commercial butyric ether1 large quantities of which are used for the preparation of the so-called pine-apple ether or essence1 is seldom pure1 it being generally obtained from simply rectified butyric acid4 ,according to another method1 which is1 however1 not as profitable1 it is obtained by distilling butter-soap with alcohol and sulphuric acid4 ,for this purpose1 bring #bj pounds of butter-soap1 cut up in small pieces1 into a distilling apparatus1 pour over it #aj pounds of #ij per cent4 alcohol and heat moderately until the soap is dissolved4 ,since a portion of the alcohol evaporates thereby1 add #aj pounds more of alcohol and then #bj pounds of sulphuric acid4 ,on further heating1 a fluid of a very agreeable odor distils over1 which is an alcoholic solution of the ethers of the volatile acids found in butter4 ,towards the end of the operation1 in consequence of the further progress of decomposition1 a development of sulphurous acid generally takes place4 ,this is removed from the distillate by allowing it to remain for several days in contact with finely-pulverized pyrolusite 7peroxide of manganese7 and rectifying over burnt magnesia4 ,in the first distillation1 the heavy volatile acids of the butter remain behind2 they are freed from the excess of sulphuric acid and the sulphate of sodium or potassium by washing with hot water1 and can be utilized in the manufacture of soap4 ,the butyric ether obtained from butter-soap is far from being pure butyric ether1 it containing1 besides it1 a mixture of various kinds of ether derived from the volatile acids--caproic1 capric1 and caprylic acids4 ,however1 these varieties of ether possess similar properties to that of butyric acid2 in alcoholic solutions their taste and odor are nearly alike1 and hence can be employed in this mixture for the preparation of essences of an agreeable odor and taste4 ,a suitable material for the preparation of butyric ether is also the ,st4 ,john's bread or carob1 the pods of ,silequa dulcis4 ,redtenbacher established in them the occurrence of about #b per cent4 butyric acid1 which ,gruenzweig later on proved to be isobutyric acid4 ,besides butyric acid and other volatile acids1 ,st4 ,john's bread contains about #dj per cent4 of fermentable varieties of sugar1 which can be utilized after their conversion to butyric acid4 ,for this purpose ,stinde has proposed the following process3 ,convert the pods together with the seeds to a coarse powder2 bring #ajj lbs4 of this powder into a capacious barrel placed in a warm place1 and pour sufficient water of #hb4e ,f4 over it1 to form a thin paste2 after #d to #e days add #bd lbs4 of whiting and await fermentation4 ,the paste1 which gradually becomes thicker1 is from time to time stirred1 and1 if necessary1 a small quantity of lukewarm water added4 ,in summer fermentation is finished in six weeks1 after which the preparation of the ether is proceeded with4 ,for this purpose bring the paste into a still provided with a steam jacket2 the evening before mix #cf lbs4 of concentrated sulphuric acid with #fj lbs4 of alcohol of #ie per cent41 and add the mixture to the paste in the still2 then lute the joints of the distilling apparatus1 and quickly introduce steam4 ,distillation soon commences1 and1 when once introduced1 is continued with a moderate admission of steam4 ,the first pound of the distillate is caught by itself1 and1 after changing the receiver1 distillation is continued until but little passes over1 even with an increased admission of steam4 ,thus an abundant yield of alcoholic butyric ether is obtained4 ,when distillation is finished #bj lbs4 more of alcohol may be brought into the still2 the distillate obtained thereby being still rich in butyric ether4 ,the ,st4 ,john's bread used should be of the best quality1 free from worms and mould1 as otherwise the ether would not possess the pure1 agreeable odor characteristic of butyric ether4 ,formic ethyl ether1 or ethyl formate1 ,,cho4,,oc#b;,h#e4--,this ether is also much manufactured for the preparation of the so-called essences which are employed for the purpose of imitating the odor of plants1 fruits1 etc4 ,it is formed by the action of formic acid upon alcohol1 or by bringing ethyl sulphuric acid1 or a mixture of alcohol and sulphuric acid1 in contact with formates1 or finally by bringing formic acid at the moment of its formation in contact with alcohol4 ,the most simple process is that recommended by ,lorin3-- ,into a capacious distilling apparatus connected with the cooling pipe1 so that the distillate constantly flows back1 bring #a part1 by weight1 of glycerin of the consistency of syrup1 add of its weight of crystallized oxalic acid and the same quantity of alcohol of #ij to #ie per cent4 ,with moderate heating a vigorous development of gas soon takes place4 ,the oxalic acid in contact with the glycerin splits into formic acid and carbonic acid1 according to the following equation3-- ,,cooh ,,cho4,,oh ,,co#b4 ,,cooh ---- -------- ---- ,oxalic acid4 ,formic acid4 ,carbonic acid4 ,the glycerine does not undergo alteration thereby4 ,the nascent formic acid converts the alcohol present into formic ether1 water being separated4 ,when1 after continued heating1 the development of carbonic acid abates1 add the same quantities of oxalic acid and alcohol to the contents of the still1 heat again until but little carbonic acid is evolved1 and then add1 twice in succession1 the same quantities of oxalic acid and alcohol as before1 until finally as much oxalic acid is consumed as glycerin has been employed4 ,when the evolution of carbonic acid ceases1 the receiver is reversed and the ether distilled off4 ,the glycerin remaining behind is again concentrated to the consistency of syrup1 and may be re-used4 ,the distillate is freed from free acid by the addition of magnesia1 and the alcohol and water are separated by shaking with calcium chloride1 after which the pure ether is obtained by rectification4 ,formic ether is colorless1 thinly-fluid1 of a pleasant smell1 specific gravity #j4ide1 boiling point #acj ,f41 soluble in cold water1 and miscible in every proportion with alcohol and ether4 ,nitrous ether1 or ethyl nitrite1 ,c#b;,h#e4,,ono4--,in a pure state this ether is best prepared according to the method given by ,e4 ,kopp4 ,it consists in bringing equal volumes of alcohol and ordinary nitric acid together with copper filings into a distilling apparatus1 which is so arranged that the vapors first pass through a flask filled with water of #gg ,f41 then through a calcium chloride tube1 and are finally condensed in a receiver surrounded by snow and common salt4 ,the nitric acid is first decomposed by the copper1 nitrous acid being thereby developed1 which is so transposed that its radicle ,,no occupies the position of the typical hydrogen in the alcohol1 while the rest of the acid forms water with the hydrogen of the alcohol4 ,by the reaction such a quantity of heat is liberated that the process requires assistance by external heating only towards the end of the operation4 ,in the receiver is then a pale yellow fluid having the taste and odor of apples and1 at #ei ,f41 a specific gravity of #j4idg4 ,according to ,liebig1 the boiling point of nitrous ether lies at #fa4e ,f42 hence it can be condensed only by careful cooling1 and has to be kept in glass tubes fused together4 ,in water it is but sparingly soluble1 but readily so in alcohol4 ,by the addition of water it is separated from the alcoholic solution4 ,mohr has modified ,kopp's method as follows3 ,mix alcohol of #j4hcc specific gravity1 water1 and nitric acid of #a4bjj specific gravity1 each #bd parts and add #d parts of copper filings4 ,of this mixture draw off #bd parts of distillate1 mix the latter with litmus tincture and neutralize the free acid by adding1 drop by drop1 solution of caustic potash or soda until the litmus tincture becomes blue4 ,rectify the distillate and catch of it #h parts4 ,compound the latter with #af parts alcohol of #j4hcc specific gravity1 whereby the product is made equal to the quantity of alcohol originally used4 ,the product is kept in glasses holding from #b to #c ozs4 each4 ,this alcoholic nitrous ether is of a yellow color1 very strong and has a pure odor4 ,in ,england and ,america1 nitrous ether is much used for aromatizing whiskies and for other purposes4 ,according to ,stinde#i it is prepared on a large scale as follows3-- ,a stone-ware flask of at least #abj lbs4 capacity1 such as is used for the preparation of chlorine1 is so placed upon a tripod in a sheet-iron cylinder that the neck projects over the edge of the cylinder4 ,the space between the flask and the walls of the cylinder is completely filled with mats or coarse pack-cloth4 ,a steam-pipe enters the lower part of the cylinder1 while a cock placed on the bottom of the cylinder serves for discharging the condensed water4 ,the cylinder is closed by a sheet-iron cover provided in the centre with a hole through which passes the neck of the flask4 ,the flask is filled with #fj lbs of #ij per cent4 alcohol free from fusel oil1 to which1 in small portions1 #ae lbs4 of crude nitric acid of #cf ,b4 are added4 #i ,dingler's ,polyt4 ,journ41 #ahd1 #cfg4 ,the neck of the flask is provided with an exactly-fitting tube of pure tin4 ,the tube is bent twice at a right angle1 and one end is provided with an annular piece to prevent it from slipping too far into the interior of the flask4 ,the joints between the tube and the neck of the flask are luted with a stiff paste of flaxseed meal1 a wet strip of linen being1 for greater security1 wrapped over the cement4 ,the other end of the tin-tube1 which here occupies the place of a still-head1 is in the same manner connected with a long tin-worm lying in a large cooling vat4 ,everything being prepared1 but little steam is at first introduced into the iron cylinder in order to slowly warm the apparatus4 ,when this is done the admission of steam is gradually increased4 ,the mats or pack-cloth placed between the walls of the cylinder and the flask prevent the latter from bursting1 which otherwise might readily happen4 ,distillation commences in about ten minutes4 ,the admission of steam is then moderated1 care being had that the ether passes over in an uninterrupted stream of the thickness of a goose-quill4 ,when1 with the admission of the same amount of steam1 the distillate commences to run drop by drop1 the steam-cock is closed and the operation interrupted1 this being the case in about six to seven hours4 ,the next day the flask--without removing the residue--is charged in the same manner4 ,however1 the third day only #cj pounds of alcohol are poured in4 ,the combined distillates come into a copper still with double walls1 between which steam can be admitted1 and are neutralized with dry calcium hydrate4 ,the cooling pipe connected with the still consists of tin1 and is provided with a beak dipping into a flask filled half-full with #d pounds of alcohol4 ,a slight current of steam suffices for distillation4 ,the first distillate is dark yellow1 and contains large quantities of aldehyde4 ,notwithstanding careful cooling1 the vapors can be but incompletely condensed1 and their inhalation has to be carefully avoided1 they producing stupor and headache as well as inflammation of the eyes4 ,when the distillate is colorless and shows no reaction with litmus paper1 the receiver is removed and replaced by a large glass balloon in which the entire distillate is collected4 ,distillation must be quickly finished1 as otherwise colored ether is obtained4 ,valerianic amyl ether or amyl valerate1 ,c#e;,h#aa,o4,c#e;,h#i,o4 ,this ether is formed by treating amyl alcohol with chromic acid4 ,however1 besides the ether a large quantity of valerianic acid is also formed1 which has to be converted by itself into ether4 ,to prepare the ether bring #e parts of powdered potassium dichromate together with #e parts of water into a distilling apparatus and very gradually add a mixture of #a part amyl alcohol and #e parts concentrated sulphuric acid4 ,the fluid becomes so strongly heated that it almost boils4 ,when reaction is finished1 heat and distil off the rest4 ,the distillate consists of two layers2 the lower one being an aqueous solution of valerianic acid and the upper one a mixture of valerianic acid and amyl valerate4 ,to separate both1 add concentrated carbonate of soda solution until all the free acid is neutralized4 ,the oily liquid separating thereby is the ether4 ,it is separated from the valerianate of sodium1 the latter evaporated to a small volume1 and1 after cooling1 sufficient sulphuric acid to fix the entire quantity of the soda is added4 ,the valerianic acid is thereby separated1 and floats upon the solution of the sodium sulphate4 ,it is separated from the latter1 and #a parts of it are added to a mixture of part of amyl alcohol and #a part sulphuric acid and heated to #bab ,f4 ,after the addition of water1 the apple-ether separates and only requires washing with water and some sodium carbonate to yield a pure product4 ,the separation of the valerianic acid can1 however1 be readily avoided4 ,evaporate the neutral solution of the valerianate of soda to dryness in the water-bath1 weigh off #a molecule1 or #abd parts1 and gently heat it with a mixture of #a molecule or #ih parts of sulphuric acid 7on account of the content of water in the commercial acid1 #aje parts of it will have to be taken7 and #a molecule or #hh parts of amyl alcohol4 ,the ether thus obtained is a fluid1 which1 in a concentrated state1 does not possess an agreeable odor1 but when mixed with #aj parts of alcohol imparts to the latter an odor resembling that of apples4 ,it boils at from #cgj to #cgd ,f41 and at #fd ,f4 has a specific gravity of #j4hgic4 ,valerianic ethyl ether closely resembles the amyl ether1 and1 like it1 is prepared from valerianate of sodium1 ordinary alcohol1 and sulphuric acid4 ,apple ether essentially consists of valeric amyl ether1 of which #a part is dissolved in #f to #aj parts of strong alcohol4 ,apricot ether is butyric ether with some amyl alcohol4 ,cherry ether is acetic ether with benzoic ether4 ,pear ether contains acetic amyl ether4 ,pineapple ether is butyric ether4 ,strawberry ether is acetic ether with acetic amyl ether and butyric ether4 ,the ethers are dissolved in various proportions in alcohol1 according to the intensity of the odor which it is desired to obtain4 ,the aroma of most of them is generally increased by a slight addition of chloroform4 ,for the preparation of different fruit essences ,kletzinsky#aj gives the following directions4 ,the figures indicate additions in cubic centimeters to #a liter of rectified alcohol of #ij per cent43-- #aj ,dingler's ,polyt4 ,journ41 #ahj1 #gg4 ,apple essence4--,chloroform #aj1 nitrous ether #aj1 aldehyde #bj1 acetic ether #aj1 valeric amyl ether #ajj1 oxalic acid#aa #aj1 glycerin #dj4 ,apricot essence4--,chloroform #aj1 butyric ether #ajj1 valeric ether #ej1 peach oil #aj1 amyl alcohol #bj1 butyric amyl ether #aj1 tartaric acid#aa #aj1 glycerin #dj4 ,cherry essence4--,acetic ether #ej1 benzoic ether #ej1 peach oil #aj1 benzoic acid#aa #aj1 glycerin #cj4 ,currant essence4--,aldehyde #aj1 acetic ether #ej1 benzoic ether #aj1 grape-seed oil #aj1 tartaric acid#aa #ej1 succinic acid#aa #aj1 benzoic acid#aa #aj4 ,grape essence4--,chloroform #bj1 aldehyde #bj1 formic ether #bj1 grape-seed oil #ajj1 wintergreen oil #aj1 tartaric acid#aa #ej1 succinic acid#aa #cj1 glycerin #ajj4 ,lemon essence4--,chloroform #aj1 nitrous ether #aj1 aldehyde #bj1 acetic ether #ajj1 oil of lemons #ajj1 tartaric acid#aa #ajj1 succinic acid#aa #aj1 glycerin #ej4 ,melon essence4--,aldehyde #bj1 formic ether #aj1 butyric ether #dj1 valeric ether #ej1 glycerin #cj4 ,orange essence4--,chloroform #bj1 aldehyde #bj1 acetic ether #ej1 formic ether #aj1 butyric ether #aj1 benzoic ether #aj1 wintergreen oil #aj1 acetic amyl ether #aj1 orange-peel oil #ajj1 tartaric acid#aa #aj1 glycerin #ajj4 #aa ,the figures for free acids refer to cubic centimeters of cold1 saturated1 alcoholic solutions4 ,peach essence4--,aldehyde #bj1 acetic ether #ej1 formic ether #ej1 butyric ether #ej1 valeric ether #ej1 peach oil #ej1 amyl alcohol #bj1 glycerin #ej4 ,pear essence4--,acetic ether #ej1 acetic amyl ether #ajj1 glycerin #ajj4 ,pineapple essence4--,chloroform #aj1 aldehyde #aj1 butyric ethyl ether #ej1 butyric amyl ether #ajj1 glycerin #cj4 ,plum essence4--,aldehyde #ej1 acetic ether #ej1 formic ether #aj1 butyric ether #bj1 peach oil #dj1 glycerin #hj4 ,raspberry essence4--,nitrous ether #aj1 aldehyde #aj1 acetic ether #ej1 formic ether #aj1 butyric ether #aj1 benzoic ether #aj1 grape-seed oil #aj1 wintergreen oil #aj1 acetic amyl ether #aj1 butyric amyl ether #aj1 tartaric acid#aa #ej1 succinic acid#aa #aj1 glycerin #dj4 #aa ,the figures for free acids refer to cubic centimeters of cold1 saturated1 alcoholic solutions4 ,strawberry essence4--,nitrous ether #aj1 acetic ether #ej1 formic ether #aj1 butyric ether #ej1 wintergreen oil #aj1 acetic amyl ether #cj1 butyric amyl ether #bj1 glycerin #bj4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,alcoholic ,,perfumes4 ,the alcoholic perfumes1 also called ,extraits d',odeurs1 are divided into flower-odors1 ,extraits aux fleurs1 and into compound odors1 ,bouquets4 ,the extracts of ,french flower pomades form the foundation of all ,extraits d',odeurs1 all other additions serving the purpose of rendering these odors more pronounced and durable4 ,hence the art of the perfumer consist in attaining this object as perfectly as possible by the correct composition of the perfume-materials at his disposal4 ,if1 for instance1 the flower-odor jasmine is to be prepared1 it would not be sufficient to simply use the alcoholic extract of jasmine-pomade for the purpose1 since the odor of jasmine would soon volatilize in the air or upon the handkerchief1 if the perfumer did not understand how to prevent it4 ,to prevent the rapid volatilization of the scent1 to retain it or to fix it1 extracts of various perfume-materials1 known as tinctures or extracts are used4 ,the method of preparing the flower-pomades in ,france has already been described on p4 #eh et seq4 ,it need here only be added that1 according to their quality1 these pomades are designated by different numbers by the ,french manufacturers4 ,there are three qualities1 which by some manufacturers are designated as ,no4 #f1 ,no4 #ah1 and ,no4 #cj2 and by others as ,no4 #ab1 ,no4 #bd and ,no4 #cf1 so that ,no4 #f and ,no4 #ab1 ,no4 #ah and ,no4 #bd1 as well as ,no4 #cj and #cf correspond to each other4 ,pomades ,no4 #f or ,no4 #ab are not suitable for the preparation of extracts1 they containing but little actual extract of flowers1 and are generally mixtures touched up with volatile oils4 ,they are almost exclusively used for hair pomades1 for which they are well adapted4 ,no4 #ah or ,no4 #bd is the quality generally employed by the perfumer for alcoholic extracts4 ,no4 #cj or ,no4 #cf is the strongest1 and1 hence1 most expensive flower-pomade1 and is used only by a few perfumers who have customers for the finest qualities of ,extraits d',odeurs4 ,when freshly prepared1 the above-mentioned flower pomades do not possess the fine odor of the respective flowers1 the full aroma being developed only after about six months4 ,the tin-canisters containing them should be provided with well-fitting lids and kept in a cool1 dry cellar4 ,thus stored1 flower-pomade keeps for about five years1 with the exception of jasmine and tuberose1 which keep only for about two years4 ,in order to show how the extraction of flower-pomades is effected1 we will take1 as an example1 #b lbs4 of ,french flower-pomade ,no4 #ah and #c quarts of best alcohol4#ad ,this proportion yields a good and sufficiently strong extract for the preparation of ,extraits d',odeurs4 ,it must1 of course1 be suited to the size of the extracting apparatus1 #h lbs4 of flower-pomade and #ad quarts of alcohol being1 for instance1 taken1 though that depends on the quantity of the respective extract required by the perfumer4 ,it is1 however1 best that the apparatus should be as completely filled as possible so that it contains but little air4 #ad ,by best alcohol is understood rectified alcohol of #ie to #ig per cent4 ,the gaining of alcoholic extracts from flower-pomades is best effected in a special apparatus1 one of the simplest kind for the purpose being shown at ,fig4 #be4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #be4 ,it consists of two cylinders1 ,a and ,a#a of stout sheet-iron provided with well-fitting lids4 ,through the centre of each lid passes a vertical iron shaft a and a#a which carries in the interior of the apparatus several horizontal arms b1 b#a1 b#b4 ,these vertical shafts can be rapidly revolved by the horizontal shaft c4 ,before bringing the flower-pomade into the apparatus1 it is melted in the water-bath at a temperature1 which1 under no conditions1 should exceed #hh4be ,f4 ,the alcohol is also heated to #hh4be ,f4 and added to the melted pomade in the apparatus4 ,the arms with which the vertical shaft is provided1 keep the mass in the apparatus in constant motion and prevent the pomade from settling on the bottom4 ,the apparatus is arranged to be driven either by hand or steam1 a fly-wheel instead of a pulley1 being in the first case provided at g4 ,where the manufacturer has steam-power at his disposal1 the apparatus may be connected with the transmission and allowed to run for #dh to #fj hours during working time4 ,after the expiration of this time1 proceed to strain off the finished extract 7,no4 #a7 as follows3 ,over a clean tin vessel stretch a close1 white linen cloth1 and pour the entire contents of the apparatus upon the latter2 the liquid portion runs through the cloth into the vessel1 while the pomade remains behind upon the cloth4 ,finally1 the cloth is thoroughly wrung out in order to obtain as much alcoholic extract from the pomade as possible4 ,bring the extract1 ,no4 #a1 thus obtained into a glass flask1 allow it to stand in a cool cellar for about #dh hours1 and then filter it through paper into another glass bottle4 ,this filtering through paper is necessary1 even if the extract should appear clear and pure1 as1 in straining1 not only do small particles of fat pass through the cloth1 but are also dissolved in the extract4 ,by quietly standing in a cool cellar these particles of fat are separated and appear as white flakes on the bottom and sides of the flask4 ,at a higher temperature1 these flakes melt and appear as drops of oil on the bottom of the flask4 ,if filtering were omitted1 these particles of fat would be transferred to the extracts and thus cause stains upon handkerchiefs1 clothing1 etc4 ,if the manufacturer has not a cool cellar at his disposal1 the fatty particles are readily separated by placing the flasks containing the extract upon ice1 and filtering immediately after separation is complete4 ,the fat then remains upon the filter4 ,the pomade remaining upon the straining cloth is1 without being previously melted1 returned to the apparatus1 and1 after adding the same quantity of alcohol 7#c quarts to every #b lbs4 of pomade71 the mixture is again worked as previously described4 ,the straining off and filtering of extract ,no4 #b is effected in precisely the same manner as extract ,no4 #a4 ,the pomade upon the cloth is now brought for the third time into the apparatus and1 after adding #c quarts of alcohol for every #b lbs4 of pomade1 subjected to the same treatment as for extracts ,nos4 #a and #b4 ,after thoroughly wringing out the cloth containing the pomade1 the latter is brought into a clean tin vessel and entirely melted upon the water-bath4 ,the vessel containing the melted pomade is placed in a cool cellar and1 if after complete cooling1 a liquid appears upon the surface1 it is added to the flask containing extract ,no4 #c4 ,this extract1 ,no4 #c1 is used in place of alcohol when preparing1 the next time1 extract ,no4 #a from the same kind of pomade4 ,in this manner1 an extract ,no4 #a of still greater strength is obtained1 and by treating the pomade three times with alcohol1 it is more completely exhausted4 ,the exhausted pomade can1 in conjunction with fresh fat1 be used for ordinary hair pomades4 ,although the extraction of pomades is somewhat laborious and requires great care1 it nevertheless pays the perfumer4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,beyer frres1 of ,paris1 have essentially improved the extracting apparatus previously described1 the improvement being shown in ,fig4 #bf4 ,the cylinders ,a and ,a#a are of copper tinned inside2 the lids close air-tight2 above the cocks f and f#a a perforated piece of tin is placed in the interior of the cylinders2 upon this piece of tin a disk of felt may be placed1 and thus the extract be drawn off clear4 ,in order to reduce the pomade to a finely divided state1 and thus bring it in contact with the alcohol1 it is passed through a vermicelli press1 h1 placed upon the cylinder ,a#a4 ,the pomade passes1 in the form of fine vermicelli1 through a sieve in the lower portion of the press into the alcohol contained in the cylinders4 ,the press can be transferred from one extracting vessel to the other4 ,the shafts a and a#a also have several horizontal arms like those shown in ,fig4 #be4 ,through the contrivances d and d#a1 sitting upon the shaft c1 the shafts a and a#a1 receive a revolving as well as an up-and-down motion1 so that a complete mixture of pomade and alcohol is effected4 ,by this arrangement the pomade completely yields its perfume to the alcohol in one day1 and independent of the quicker work1 it has the further advantage that the extracts are of better quality in consequence of not remaining for so long a time in contact with the fat4 ,,tinctures ,,and ,,extracts4 ,in the following pages receipts for the preparation of the principal tinctures and extracts used in the preparation of ,extraits1 as well as in other branches of perfumery1 fumigating pastils and powders1 dentifrices1 mouth-waters1 and cosmetics1 will be given4 ,the tinctures are prepared from the resins and balsams previously mentioned1 as well as from the perfume-substances derived from the animal kingdom4 ,besides these there are employed for the purpose several spices1 leaves1 roots1 and seeds--such as musk-seeds1 angelica root1 orris root1 patchouli leaves1 musk-root or sumbul-root1 tonka beans1 vanilla1 vitivert root1 etc4 ,most of these substances1 if not already found in commerce in the form of a powder1 are1 before extraction1 pulverized1 or at least comminuted as much as possible4 ,for a better view the treatment of each substance is given with the respective receipt4 ,the infusions should be stored in a moderately warm room1 and thoroughly shaken several times every day4 ,when extraction is finished the product is filtered through paper and is then called tincture or extract4 ,the substances to be used for tinctures should be fresh and genuine1 and the alcohol free from fusel oil1 since a perfect tincture can only be obtained under these conditions4 ,for the preparation of tinctures ,beyer frres have constructed very suitable apparatuses 7,figs4 #bg and #bh74 ,by the vigorous and uninterrupted agitation produced by means of such an apparatus extraction is effected much more rapidly and more completely than by treating the substances to be extracted in ordinary bottles and by shaking with the hand4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bg4 ,the apparatus 7,fig4 #bg7 is provided with two boxes for the reception of bottles filled with the substances to be extracted and alcohol4 ,in the accompanying illustration one box is charged with two glass bottles and the other with a copper flask4 ,however1 ,beyer frres also construct apparatuses which can1 at one time1 be charged with #f1 #h1 or #aj glass bottles1 so that #f1 #h1 or #aj different tinctures can be prepared at one operation4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bh4 ,the apparatus 7,fig4 #bh7 consists of a round table provided with cavities covered with leather1 in which rest bottles of a special shape4 ,the bottles fit exactly in the cavities4 ,the stoppers1 with which the bottles are closed1 rest against a screw of large diameter placed in the centre of the apparatus4 ,against this screw the bottles are firmly pressed by means of clamps and screws4 ,the bottles being filled with the substances to be extracted1 the table is set in motion1 moving alternately from left to right and from right to left4 ,it is advisable to have always a sufficient supply of tinctures on hand1 since their aroma improves by age4 ,the receipts given in the following pages have been practically tested and can be recommended as perfectly reliable4 ,musk tincture4--,tonkin musk #aa drachms1 rose water #h ozs41 best quality of alcohol #b quarts4 ,carefully empty the musk sac into a glass flask1 add the rose water and let the flask stand for about #aj days1 shaking frequently4 ,then add the alcohol and let the whole stand for several weeks1 shaking frequently4 ,cut up the empty musk sacs into as small pieces as possible1 and1 in another bottle1 treat them in the same manner as their contents2 distilled water1 may1 however1 be used instead of rose water4 ,the object of the water is to soften the musk1 which swells up1 so that the alcohol can better penetrate into the cellular tissue and absorb the aroma4 ,the extract from the empty musk sacs is used for cheaper products1 or mixed with the extract from the contents of the sacs1 according to whether a more or less fine quality of tincture is to be obtained4 ,a still higher yield might1 perhaps1 be obtained by the use of a machine for comminuting the musk1 which grinds the sac to atoms1 whereby the cellular tissue is still more completely disintegrated than by cutting up4 ,civet tincture4--,civet #e drachms1 best quality of alcohol #c pints4 ,civet in its natural state being1 with difficulty1 soluble in alcohol1 triturate it in a mortar to a pulverulent mass together with some dry substance1 for instance1 whiting or exhausted orris-root powder4 ,the mixture is then brought into a glass flask1 the alcohol added1 and the whole frequently shaken4 ,ambergris tincture4--,ambergris #e drachms1 alcohol of the best quality #a quart4 ,ambergris dissolving readily in alcohol1 pulverizing is not required1 but if it is done1 great care should be exercised to prevent loss of this expensive substance4 ,ambergris is not so much distinguished by its aroma as by its indestructibility1 which renders it especially suitable for fixing odors4 ,castor tincture4--,castor #c ozs41 best quality of alcohol #c pints4 ,comminute the castor as much as possible1 bring it into a glass flask and add the alcohol4 ,perfume-substances resembling musk having in the last few years increased to an extraordinary degree1 the use of castor has been almost entirely abandoned on account of its disagreeable odor4 ,the tincture can only be employed1 when very old1 for cheap perfumes4 ,benzoin tincture4--,benzoin 7,siam7 #b lbs41 best quality of alcohol #c quarts4 ,convert the benzoin into a coarse powder1 bring it into a flask1 add the alcohol and shake thoroughly4 ,solution takes place in #aj to #ab days4 ,siam benzoin is the finest and most expensive and is indispensable for ,extraits d',odeurs4 ,for cheaper products of perfumery1 ,sumatra benzoin answers very well4 ,peru-balsam tincture4--,peru balsam #h ozs41 best quality of alcohol #e quarts4 ,tolu-balsam tincture4--,tolu balsam #c lbs41 best quality of alcohol #e quarts4 ,bring the alcohol into a bottle4 ,tolu balsam cannot be reduced to a powder1 hence it is necessary to keep it right cool1 whereby it becomes brittle so that it can be cut up with a sharp instrument and a hammer4 ,the pieces detached are rapidly brought into the alcohol1 solution taking place in about #ad days4 ,if the alcohol were added to the tolu balsam1 the latter would ball together1 rendering solution very difficult4 ,frequent vigorous shaking is necessary4 ,olibanum tincture4--,olibanum #b lbs41 best quality of alcohol #d quarts4 ,reduce the olibanum to as fine a powder as possible1 bring it into a flask1 add the alcohol and shake frequently4 ,opopanax tincture4--,opopanax #b lbs41 best quality of alcohol #d quarts4 ,reduce the opopanax to a coarse powder1 bring it into a bottle1 add the alcohol and shake frequently4 ,storax tincture4--,storax liquidus #d lbs41 alcohol of best quality #e quarts4 ,bring the alcohol first into the flask4 ,then place the pot containing the storax in warm water until it becomes more liquid1 and then pour it in very thin threads into the flask4 ,shake frequently4 ,myrrh tincture4--,myrrh #a lb41 best quality of alcohol #b quarts4 ,musk-seed or abelmosk tincture4--,abelmosk grains #ba ozs41 best quality of alcohol #b quarts4 ,reduce the grains to a fine powder1 bring the powder into a bottle1 and add the alcohol4 ,this tincture abelmoschi fulfils its object as a fixing agent only when about one year old1 when it possesses a very fine aroma4 ,abelmosk grains are the seeds of a plant 7,abelmoschus moschatus ,mnch2 ,hebiscus abelmoschus1 ,l47 indigenous to ,central ,africa1 ,arabia1 and ,india4 ,they are reddishgray1 kidney-shaped1 slightly corrugated on the surface1 and of an agreeable musk-like odor4 ,the substance producing the musk odor lies in the seed coat4 ,the odor becomes very pronounced on rubbing the seeds between the hands4 ,angelica root tincture4--,angelica root #af ozs41 best quality of alcohol #b quarts4 ,bruise or rasp the root1 bring it into a bottle1 add the alcohol1 and shake frequently4 ,orris-root tincture4--,pulverized orris root of best quality #b lbs41 alcohol of best quality #c quarts4 ,pulverize the root1 bring it into a glass flask1 and add the alcohol4 ,the powder having a great tendency to ball together1 it is necessary to shake five or six times daily1 and continue to do so for #ad days4 ,in straining off the tincture1 it is advisable to bring the entire contents of the flask upon a close linen cloth stretched over a tin vessel4 ,the orris-root powder remaining upon the cloth after the tincture has run off is returned to the flask1 and fresh alcohol added in order to obtain a second extract4 ,musk-root or sumbul-root tincture4--,sumbul root #a lb41 best quality of alcohol #b quarts4 ,proceed in the same manner as given under angelica-root tincture4 ,tonka-bean tincture4--,tonka beans #h ozs41 alcohol of best quality #c pints4 ,the tonka bean is of great importance for perfumery4 ,the tincture prepared from it has an agreeable1 penetrating odor1 and in mixing it with other odors1 great care has to be exercised1 so that the tonka odor is not too prominent4 ,the tincture is prepared as follows3 ,bring the beans1 without comminuting them or removing the white coating adhering to them1 into a flask1 add the alcohol1 and let the whole macerate1 with frequent shaking1 for about #ad days4 ,then filter off the fluid4 ,the tincture prepared in this manner only contains the cumarin found as a white coating upon the beans1 and is used only for the finest products4 ,now take the beans from the flask1 comminute them1 return them to the flask1 and add #a quarts of alcohol4 ,this extract gives an excellent tincture suitable for products of medium quality4 ,cumarin tincture4--,cumarin #e drachms1 best quality of alcohol #a quart4 ,heliotropin tincture4--,the white crystals of heliotropin yield with alcohol a solution clear as water1 which is much used in the preparation of ,extrait hliotrope4 ,vanilla tincture4--,best quality of ,bourbon vanilla #e ozs41 alcohol of best quality #b quarts4 ,to prepare the tincture proceed as follows3 ,cut the so-called vanilla pods lengthwise and then into as small pieces as possible1 and bring the latter together with the alcohol into a flask4 ,some perfumers triturate the commimuted vanilla with sugar in a porcelain mortar1 whereby the small-seed bodies contained in the pod are ground up1 and a better yield is claimed to be obtained4 ,though by this trituration a tincture of a darker color may be obtained1 the color alone is by no means a proof of the strength of the tincture4 ,care must be had to bring the white1 downy crystals of vanillin found upon the vanilla pods into the flask4 ,vanillin tincture4--,vanillin #a drachms1 alcohol #b quarts4 ,vitivert tincture4--,vitivert rhizome #h ozs41 best quality of alcohol #b quarts4 ,reduce the rhizome to as fine a powder as possible1 bring the latter into a flask1 add the alcohol and shake frequently4 ,juniper-berry tincture4--,juniper berries #b lbs41 best quality of alcohol #e pints4 ,the juniper berries 7the fruits of ,juniperus communis1 ,l47 are comminuted1 and the alcohol is poured over them4 ,patchouli extract4#ae--,patchouli leaves #a lb41 best quality of alcohol #e pints4 #ae ,compare patchouli oil1 p4 #acj4 ,bring the pulverized leaves into a bottle and add the alcohol4 ,the tincture from patchouli leaves being dark-green is not suitable for the preparation of ,extraits1 since white substances are colored grass-green by it2 only traces of the tincture may be used for the purpose of giving the ,extrait patchouli a greenish shade of color4 ,the tincture may1 however1 be utilized for milled patchouli soaps4 ,from many of the above-mentioned perfume-substances1 which serve for the preparation of tinctures and are not entirely soluble in alcohol1 but leave a residue after extraction1 a second infusion may be made4 ,musk1 castor1 and the resins dissolve completely1 there remaining behind only the impurities and any mineral constituents present which possess no aroma4 ,but all residues from woods1 fruits1 etc41 are suitable for a second extraction1 most of the tinctures thus obtained being quite aromatic1 and1 as will be seen later on in giving receipts1 can be very advantageously utilized4 ,for the second extraction less alcohol has to be taken than for the first4 ,since many perfumers consider it of greater advantage and more suitable to first dissolve the volatile oils used for the ,extraits d',odeurs1 and to prepare a tincture in this manner1 several receipts for the purpose are given below4 ,in the receipts for perfumery given in the next following sections1 the volatile oils are specified as such1 and not as tinctures1 because the ,extraits d',odeurs containing evidently much non-saturated alcohol1 the volatile oils will in time completely dissolve in them4 ,an exception to this rule might be ylang-ylang oil and perhaps orris-root oil4 ,ylang-ylang oil is soluble with difficulty1 even in very strong alcohol1 and if directly used for the ,extrait1 the latter remains turbid for weeks1 and frequently1 especially in winter1 does not become clear1 notwithstanding repeated filtering4 ,however1 by preparing in good time an ylang-ylang tincture this evil is avoided4 ,almond-oil 7bitter7 tincture4--,bitter almond oil #b drachms1 alcohol#af #a quart4 #af ,for all the tinctures1 #ie to #ig per cent4 alcohol of the best quality is to be used4 ,balm-oil tincture4--,balm oil #e drachms1 alcohol #a quart4 ,basil-oil tincture4--,basil oil #ad drachms1 alcohol #a quart4 ,bergamot-oil tincture4--,bergamot oil #c ozs41 alcohol #d quarts4 ,canango-oil tincture4--,canango oil 7,java71 #a ozs41 alcohol #a quart4 ,cassia-oil tincture4--,cassia oil #a ozs41 alcohol #a quart4 ,cedar-oil tincture4--,cedar oil #a oz41 alcohol #a quart4 ,cinnamon-oil tincture4--,ceylon cinnamon oil #e drachms1 alcohol #a quart4 ,citronella-oil tincture4--,citronella oil #a oz41 alcohol #a quart4 ,clove-oil tincture4--,oil of cloves #aa drachms1 alcohol #a quart4 ,eucalyptus-oil tincture4--,eucalyptus oil #a oz41 alcohol #a quarts4 ,geranium-oil tincture4--,palma rosa oil #ad drachms1 alcohol #a quart4 ,lavender-oil tincture4--,lavender oil #a ozs41 alcohol #a quart4 ,lemon-grass-oil tincture4--,lemon-grass oil #a oz41 alcohol #a quart4 ,lemon-oil tincture4--,oil of lemons #a ozs41 alcohol #a quart4 ,licari-oil tincture4--,licari oil #e drachms1 alcohol #a quart4 ,myrrh-oil tincture4--,myrrh oil #e drachms1 alcohol #a quart4 ,neroli-oil tincture4--,neroli oil #e drachms1 alcohol #a quart4 ,opopanax-oil tincture4--,opopanax oil #e drachms1 alcohol #a quart4 ,orris-root-oil tincture4--,orris-root oil #e drachms1 alcohol #a quart4 ,patchouli-oil tincture4--,patchouli oil #e drachms1 alcohol #a quart4 ,petit-grain-oil tincture4--,petit-grain oil #aa drachms1 alcohol #a quart4 ,pine-leaf-oil tincture4--,pine-leaf oil#ag #ad drachms1 alcohol #a quart4 #ag ,by pine-leaf oil is understood pine oil or dwarf-pine oil4 ,see p4 #adi4 ,portugal-oil tincture4--,portugal oil #a ozs41 alcohol #a quart4 ,sandal-wood-oil tincture4--,sandal-wood#ah oil #e drachms1 alcohol #a quart4 #ah ,the better quality of oil from the ,east ,indian wood is to be used4 ,verbena-oil tincture4--,verbena oil #aa drachms1 alcohol #a quart4 ,vitivert-oil tincture4--,vitivert oil #b drachms1 alcohol #a quart4 ,wintergreen-oil tincture4--,wintergreen oil #e drachms1 alcohol #a quart4 ,ylang-ylang-oil tincture4--,ylang-ylang oil #aa drachms1 alcohol #c quarts4 ,rose-oil tincture4--,rose oil 7,turkish7#ai #a ozs41 alcohol #f quarts4 #ai ,bulgarian rose oil is generally designated ,turkish rose oil4 ,rose oil1 if directly added to the alcohol1 dissolves with difficulty and incompletely4 ,by the following method the object is1 however1 readily accomplished3-- ,bring about #e ozs4 of pulverized sugar into a capacious porcelain mortar1 add the rose oil and mix intimately with the pestle4 ,then pour the thickly-fluid mass through a glass funnel into a glass flask and rinse the mortar with alcohol until the prescribed #f quarts of the latter have been brought into the flask4 ,frequent shaking accelerates the complete solution of the rose oil4 ,,extraits ,,aux ,,fleurs4 ,we now proceed to give receipts for ,extraits d',odeurs1 and consider first the flower odors1 ,extraits aux fleurs4 ,by extracts are thereby understood the odors extracted from ,french flower pomades4 ,any coloring matter required is mentioned under the respective receipts4 ,great care has to be exercised in the preparation of ,extraits and ,bouquets1 and special attention must be paid that they actually represent the odor whose name they bear4 ,extrait acacia4--,extract ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,acacia #gej drachms1 bergamot oil #a1 lavender oil #a1 eucalyptus oil 1 orris-root tincture #abe1 musk-root tincture #ab1 ambergris tincture #b1 civet tincture #a1 musk tincture #a4 ,extrait cassie4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,cassie #ejj drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,tubereuse #abe1 bergamot oil #e1 orris-root tincture #ge1 tinctures of vitivert and angelica each #ab1 tinctures of musk and ambergris each #b4 ,extrait hliotrope 7,receipt ,no4 #a74--;,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,hliotrope #gej drachms1 and from ,pomm4 ,rose #ge1 bergamot oil #b1 rose-geranium oil #a1 musk tincture #b1 civet tincture #a1 heliotropin tincture #ej4 ,extrait hliotrope 7,receipt ,no4 #b74--;,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,hliotrope #ejj drachms1 and from ,pomm4 ,rose and ,pomm4 ,orange #ej each1 bergamot oil #e1 clove oil #b1 vanilla tincture #ej1 orris-root tincture #ajj1 musk-root tincture #be1 tinctures of musk and civet #e each1 benzoin tincture #aj1 ,peru-balsam tincture #e4 ,extrait jacinthe4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,jacinthe #gej drachms1 and from ,pomm4 ,acacia #ajj2 bergamot oil #e1 clove oil #a1 storax tincture #b1 musk-root tincture #ab1 tinctures of musk and ambergris #a each4 ,extrait jasmin4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,jasmin #ejj drachms1 and from ,pomm4 ,orange #ajj2 civet tincture #a1 ambergris tincture #a1 sandal-wood oil #c drops4 ,essence of the odor of linden blossoms4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,acacia #bej drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,jasmin #ej1 and from ,pomm4 ,jonquille #ajj2 pure camomile oil #a1 oil of lemons #b1 ambergris tincture #e1 civet tincture #c4 ,extrait jonquille4--,extract ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,jonquille #gej drachms1 lavender oil 1 bergamot oil #b1 ,ceylon cinnamon oil 1 storax tincture #a1 tinctures of abelmosk and angelica each #e1 musk tincture #a1 civet tincture #a4 ,extrait magnolia4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,tubereuse #aej drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,acacia #bej1 and from ,pomm4 ,rose #abe1 balm oil #b1 tinctures of vanilla and cumarin each #ab1 civet tincture #a1 musk tincture #b4 ,extrait muguet 7lily of the valley74--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,jonquille #gej drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,jasmin #ajj1 from ,pomm4 ,tubereuse #bjj1 and from ,pomm4 ,acacia and ,pomm4 ,orange each #ajj2 bergamot oil #g drachms1 oil of lemons #b1 angelica oil #c drops1 storax tincture #e drachms1 musk tincture #b1 vanilla tincture #e1 ambergris tincture #b1 ylang-ylang tincture #ajj1 wintergreen tincture #be1 bitter-almond-oil tincture #b4 ,extrait fleurs de ,mai 7,may flowers74--,extract ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,rsda1 ,pomm4 ,rose and ,pomm4 ,hliotrope1 each #ge drachms2 from ,pomm4 ,jasmin #abe1 and from ,pomm4 ,orange #ej2 bergamot oil #g1 ,ceylon cinnamon oil #b1 orris-root tincture #ej1 tinctures of ambergris and musk1 each #ae1 ylang-ylang tincture #be4 ,extrait ixora4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,tubereuse #abe drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,cassie and ,pomm4 ,rsda1 each #age2 bergamot oil #e1 orris-root tincture #abe1 musk tincture #aj1 benzoin tincture #be4 ,extrait ,orange4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,orange #ejj drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,acacia #ajj2 ,portugal oil #g1 tinctures of musk and ambergris1 each #a4 ,extrait white rose4--,rose-oil tincture from ,turkish rose oil #ejj drachms1 bergamot oil #a1 sandal-wood oil #c drops1 nutmeg oil #a drop1 musk tincture drachm1 civet tincture drachm4 ,extrait rose v4 d4 centifolie4--,extract ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,rose #ejj drachms1 rose-oil tincture from ,turkish rose oil #ejj1 rose-geranium oil #aj1 musk tincture1 #b1 sandal-wood oil1 #g drops4 ,extrait violette4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,violette #ejj drachms1 and from ,pomm4 ,cassie #bej2 orris-root tincture #abe1 musk tincture #a1 sandal-wood oil #c drops4 ,to give the extrait violette an apparently greater concentration1 it is compounded with a green coloring tincture4 ,the latter may be prepared by bringing comminuted dried spinach leaves into a bottle and pouring #if per cent4 alcohol over them4 ,the result is a handsome green coloring matter2 but care must be taken not to add too much of it to the extrait1 as otherwise it might stain the handkerchief1 etc4#bj #bj ,this spinach extract unfortunately bleaches very rapidly when exposed to light1 and the extraits colored with it acquire a dirty-brown color4 ,hence it is recommended to use the green tincture1 which can be purchased from the larger manufactories of volatile oils4 ,extrait de violette de ,parme4--,extract ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,violette #gej drachms1 orris-root oil and bergamot oil each #b1 tinctures of musk1 ambergris1 and bitter-almond oil each #a4 ,this extrait may also be colored slightly green4 ,extrait tubereuse4--,extract ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,tubereuse #ejj drachms1 bergamot oil #b1 ,ceylon cinnamon oil 1 musk tincture #a1 storax tincture #b4 ,extrait rsda4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,rsda #gej drachms1 and from ,pomm4 ,violette #ajj2 bergamot oil #g1 rose-geranium oil #b1 clove oil #a1 musk tincture #b1 ambergris tincture #a4 ,a trace of the above-mentioned green coloring substance may be added4 ,extrait ylang-ylang4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,jasmin1 ,pomm4 ,jonquille1 ,pomm4 ,orange1 and ,pomm4 ,acacia1 each #bej drachms1 bergamot oil #g1 angelica oil #b1 ylang-ylang tincture #ejj1 abelmosk tincture #be1 tonka-bean extract #g1 musk tincture #d1 ambergris tincture #b4 ,,compound ,,odors 7,,bouquets74 ,extrait ,edelweiss4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,jasmin and ,pomm4 ,tubereuse #bej drachms each1 and from ,pomm4 ,orange1 ,pomm4 ,hliotrope1 and ,pomm4 ,jacinthe #abe each1 bergamot oil #aj1 basil oil #e1 tinctures of musk and ambergris each #e1 bitter-almond-oil tincture #b1 tinctures of angelica and vitivert each #be4 ,extrait ess-bouquet4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,acacia and ,pomm4 ,cassie each #ajj drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,jasmin #cbe1 from ,pomm4 ,rose #ge1 and from ,pomm4 ,orange #bej2 bergamot oil #dj1 ,ceylon cinnamon oil and clove oil each #e1 ,french rose-geranium oil #aj1 sandal-wood oil #b1 licari oil #h1 rose-oil tincture from ,turkish rose oil #ge1 orris-root tincture #ej1 tinctures of ambergris and civet each #aj1 musk tincture #ae1 musk-root tincture #cg1 benzoin tincture #ae4 ,extrait spring flower4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,jasmin1 ,pomm4 ,cassie1 ,pomm4 ,orange1 ,pomm4 ,jonquille1 ,pomm4 ,tubereuse1 and ,pomm4 ,violette each #ajj drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,rose #ej1 from ,pomm4 ,rsda #ajj1 and from ,pomm4 ,hliotrope and ,pomm4 ,acacia each #ej2 neroli oil #b1 bergamot oil #e1 vitivert oil 1 rose-oil tincture from ,turkish rose oil #ej1 musk-root tincture #ab1 musk tincture #e1 civet tincture #b1 orris-root tincture #be4 ,extrait bouquet ,eugenie4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,cassie #ajj drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,tubereuse #ge1 from ,pomm4 ,jasmin #abe2 bergamot oil #aj1 licari oil #b1 rose-oil tincture from ,turkish rose oil #ge1 musk-root tincture #aj1 cumarin tincture #g1 orris-root tincture #ge1 tinctures of angelica and musk each #aj1 ambergris tincture #e4 ,extrait excelsior4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,jasmin #bjj drachms and from ,pomm4 ,orange and ,pomm4 ,hliotrope each #ajj2 oils of lemon and rose geranium each #d1 rose-oil tincture from ,turkish rose oil #fj1 orris-root tincture #ej1 musk tincture #e1 abelmosk tincture #aj1 opopanax tincture #e1 storax tincture #a4 ,extrait ,frangipani4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,cassie #aej drachms1 and from ,pomm4 ,jasmin #ej2 ,french rose geranium oil #e1 cassia oil #b1 licari oil #c1 sandal-wood oil #a1 orris-root tincture #ajj1 angelica tincture #h1 musk tincture #e1 storax tincture #e4 ,extrait jockey club4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,orange #aej drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,rose #ce1 from ,pomm4 ,jasmin #aej1 and from ,pomm4 ,jonquille and ,pomm4 ,hliotrope each #cj2 bergamot oil #h1 ,ceylon cinnamon oil #b1 ,portugal oil #f1 cedar oil #a1 clove oil #b1 tincture of rose oil from ,turkish rose oil and of orris root each #dj1 musk-root tincture #h1 musk tincture #aj1 ambergris tincture #c1 vanilla tincture #e4 ,extrait opopanax4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,orange #bej drachms1 and from ,pomm4 ,hliotrope #abe2 opopanax oil #aj1 ,ceylon cinnamon oil #e1 rose-oil tincture from ,turkish rose oil #abe1 opopanax tincture #be1 orris-root tincture #fb1 musk tincture #d1 ambergris tincture #e4 ,extrait patchouly4--,extract ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,acacia #ajj drachms1 patchouli oil #d1 clove oil and ,portugal oil1 each #b1 rose-oil tincture from ,turkish rose oil #dj1 orris-root tincture #cj1 musk-root tincture #aj1 vitivert tincture #aj1 patchouli tincture #a4 ,extrait millefleurs4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,jasmin #bej drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,jonquille #ajj1 ,pomm4 ,rose #ge1 ,pomm4 ,acacia #ajj1 ,pomm4 ,orange and ,pomm4 ,tubereuse each #aej1 and ,pomm4 ,cassie #ajj2 bergamot oil #bj1 rose geranium oil and ,portugal oil each #ae1 oils of angelica and sandal wood1 each #e1 rose-oil tincture from ,turkish rose oil #aej1 orris-root tincture #bej1 vanilla tincture #ae1 musk-root tincture #ce1 tolu-balsam tincture #aj1 tinctures of storax and patchouli each #e1 musk tincture #cj1 civet tincture #be4 ,extrait bouquet ,victoria4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,rose #bjj drachms1 ,pomm4 ,orange and ,pomm4 ,tubereuse1 each #ajj1 ,pomm4 ,jasmin #cjj1 and ,pomm4 ,hliotrope #bjj2 lemon oil #bj1 verbena oil #e1 ,french rose geranium oil #aj1 musk tincture #bj1 tinctures of civet and ambergris each #e1 musk-root tincture #dj1 tolu-balsam tincture #bj1 orris-root tincture #aej4 ,extrait kiss-me-quick4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,acacia and ,pomm4 ,jonquille each #ajj drachms1 and ,pomm4 ,jasmin #dj2 bergamot oil #d1 oil of lemons #b1 rose-oil tincture from ,turkish rose oil #cj1 tinctures of vitivert and angelica #h1 ambergris tincture #d1 civet tincture #b1 musk tincture #a4 ,extrait mogadore4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,jasmin #ajj drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,jonquille and ,pomm4 ,acacia1 each #ej1 from ,pomm4 ,orange #dj2 bergamot oil #f1 oil of lavender #a1 ,french rose geranium oil #b1 tinctures of musk1 ambergris1 tolu balsam1 and cumarin1 each #aj1 tincture of orris root #ej4 ,extrait bouquet ,prince ,albert4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,jasmin #aej drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,tubereuse1 ,pomm4 ,orange1 and ,pomm4 ,cassie each #ej1 ,pomm4 ,rose #be1 neroli oil #b1 bergamot oil #d1 musk tincture #b1 tonka bean extract #d1 angelica tincture #aj1 ambergris tincture #b4 ,extrait musc4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,orange1 ,pomm4 ,hliotrope1 and ,pomm4 ,cassie each #ej drachms2 clove oil #d1 cassia oil #b1 tinctures of abelmosk and musk-root each #aj1 opopanax tincture #d1 musk tincture #cj1 civet tincture #e1 orris-root tincture #ej4 ,extrait new-mown hay4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,rsda #bjj drachms1 ,pomm4 ,rose #dj1 ,pomm4 ,cassie #hj1 ,pomm4 ,acacia #dj2 ,french rose geranium oil #d1 bergamot oil #aj1 myrrh oil #e1 tonka-bean extract #cj1 vitivert tincture #aj1 musk-root tincture #af1 benzoin tincture #d4 ,extrait chypre4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,orange #fj drachms1 ,pomm4 ,jasmin #dj1 ,pomm4 ,cassie #aaj1 ,pomm4 ,hliotrope #dj2 ,french rose geranium oil #f1 bergamot oil #b1 cedar oil 1 benzoin tincture #d1 orris-root tincture #cj1 musk tincture #e1 civet tincture #d1 abelmosk tincture #aj4 ,extrait marchal4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,hliotrope and ,pomm4 ,orange each #bjj drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,jasmin #ge2 oils of sandal wood and cloves each #e1 ,portugal oil #aj1 cedar oil #a1 rose-oil tincture from ,turkish rose oil #ajj1 orris-root tincture #ge1 vitivert tincture #be1 civet tincture #aj1 musk tincture #bj1 bitter almond oil tincture #a4 ,extrait mousseline4--,extracts ,no4 #a from ,pomm4 ,jasmin #bej drachms1 ,pomm4 ,rose #aej1 and ,pomm4 ,jonquille1 ,pomm4 ,hliotrope1 and ,pomm4 ,cassie1 each #abe2 ,french rose geranium oil #ab1 oil of cloves #aj1 cassia oil #e1 wintergreen oil #a1 orris-root tincture #abe1 rose-oil tincture from ,turkish rose oil #ajj1 musk tincture #ab1 civet tincture #aj1 vitivert tincture #cg1 abelmosk tincture #be4 ,in compiling the abundant choice of receipts for ,extraits d',odeurs given above1 the golden mean has been chosen in regard to the quality of these odors1 they1 when carefully prepared1 giving1 at a moderate cost of manufacture1 a product which in most cases will satisfy the demands of lovers of perfumes4 ,to enable the perfumer1 however1 to satisfy the highest demands attention is called to1 and a brief explanation given of1 the so-called ,extraits triple concentrs4 ,for the preparation of these stronger products1 the employment of a stronger foundation1 i4 e41 of more highly saturated extracts from ,french flower pomades1 is required4 ,for this purpose the ,french perfumers prepare1 under ,no4 #cj1 flower pomades of all odors which are exclusively used for concentrated ,extraits4 ,they are1 of course1 correspondingly higher in price than those prepared from ,no4 #ah1 which have previously been treated of4 ,the method of preparing the extracts from these pomades1 ,no4 #cj1 is the same as previously described1 the proportion of pomade to alcohol being also the same2 hence for #b lbs4 of pomade #a quarts of alcohol are to be used4 ,the proportions of volatile oils and tinctures given in the above receipts are also to be retained4 ,the stronger extracts from the flower pomades are the only measure in the preparation of the ,extraits triple concentrs1 and such must be the case since the object of the concentration of the ,extraits is thus completely attained by the greater prominence of the flower odors from the ,extraits d',odeurs4 ,for the preparation of ,extraits d',odeurs1 the ,french perfumers also manufacture a concentrated flower extract of the various odors4 ,this extract is simply dissolved in alcohol1 the solution being effected immediately1 so that this method of preparing ,extraits d',odeurs is the simplest imaginable4 ,however1 the price of such extract 7#ajjj francs #bjj and more per kilogramme #b4b lb47 is a considerable item1 so that most perfumers will prefer the extracts from the flower pomades as previously described4 ,,extraits ,d',,odeurs1 ,,quality ,,ii4--,in addition to the fine extracts given in the preceding section1 a small selection of quite cheap receipts for quality ,,ii of such extracts is here given1 the extracts ,no4 #b offering sufficient material for their preparation4 ,in the introduction to the previous section1 attention has been called to the fact that quite useful tinctures may be prepared from substances leaving behind solid residues1 there being also on hand the second extract from the flower pomades4 ,besides the alcohol1 such tinctures and extracts cost only the small trouble of treatment4 ,for this second quality only half the quantity of volatile oils prescribed for the best quality is used4 ,such tinctures1 from which a second extract cannot be had1 may1 for this purpose1 be diluted one-half with alcohol1 which need not be of the best quality1 thus preparing a second quality of them4 ,the process to be followed is illustrated by a selection from the first ,extrait receipts which have been converted into ,extraits of quality ,,ii4 ,extrait violette ,,ii4--,extracts ,no4 #b from ,pomm4 ,violette #ejj drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,cassie #bej2 bergamot oil #b1 musk tincture ,no4 #b1 #a1 ambergris tincture ,no4 #b1 1 diluted with alcohol 1 bitter almond oil tincture ,no4 #b1 #a1 orris-root tincture ,no4 #b1 #abe4 ,add a small quantity of green coloring substance4 ,extrait rose ,,ii4--,extract ,no4 #b from ,pomm4 ,rose #ejj drachms1 ,african rose geranium oil #d1 sandal-wood oil #c drops1 musk tincture ,no4 #b1 #b drachms1 rose-oil tincture from ,turkish rose oil #bej drachms diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol1 which may be called rose tincture ,no4 #b4 ,extrait rsda ,,ii4--,extracts ,no4 #b from ,pomm4 ,rsda #gej drachms and from ,pomm4 ,violette #ajj1 bergamot oil #c1 ,african rose-geranium oil #a1 clove oil #a1 musk tincture ,no4 #b1 #b1 ambergris tincture diluted with alcohol 4 ,extrait ylang-ylang ,,ii4--,extracts ,no4 #b from ,pomm4 ,jasmin1 ,pomm4 ,jonquille1 ,pomm4 ,orange1 and ,pomm4 ,acacia each #bej drachms2 bergamot oil #c1 angelica oil #a1 ylang-ylang tincture #bej diluted with the equal quantity of alcohol1 abelmosk ,no4 #b1 #be1 tonka-bean extract ,no4 #b1 #g1 musk tincture ,no4 #b1 #d1 ambergris tincture #a diluted with the same quantity of alcohol4 ,extrait new-mown hay ,,ii4--,extracts ,no4 #b from ,pomm4 ,rsda #ejj drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,rose #ajj1 from ,pomm4 ,cassie #bjj and ,pomm4 ,acacia #ajj2 palma rosa oil #e1 bergamot oil #ab1 myrrh oil #f1 tonka-bean extract ,no4 #b1 #ge1 vitivert tincture ,no4 #b1 #be1 musk-root tincture ,no4 #b1 #dj1 benzoin tincture #e diluted with the same quantity of alcohol4 ,extrait chypre ,,ii4--,extracts ,no4 #b1 from ,pomm4 ,orange #aej drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,jasmin #ajj1 ,pomm4 ,cassie #bge1 and ,pomm4 ,hliotrope #ajj2 palma rosa oil #g1 bergamot oil #b1 cedar oil 1 orris-root tincture ,no4 #b1 #ge1 musk tincture ,no4 #b1 #ab1 abelmosk tincture ,no4 #b1 #be1 civet tincture #e diluted with alcohol #e1 benzoin tincture #e diluted with alcohol #e4 ,extrait ess4 bouquet ,,ii4--,extracts ,no4 #b from ,pomm4 ,acacia and ,pomm4 ,cassie each #ajj1 from ,pomm4 ,jasmin #cge1 ,pomm4 ,rose #ge1 ,pomm4 ,orange #bej2 bergamot oil #bj1 ,ceylon cinnamon oil and clove oil each #b1 ,african rose geranium oil #e1 sandal-wood oil #a1 licari oil #b1 rose-oil tincture from ,turkish rose oil #cg diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol1 orris-root tincture ,no4 #b1 #ej1 ambergris tincture #e diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol1 civet tincture #e diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol1 musk tincture ,no4 #b1 #ae1 musk-root tincture ,no4 #b1 #cg1 benzoin tincture #g diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol4 ,extrait muguet ,,ii4--,extracts ,no4 #b from ,pomm4 ,jonquille #gej drachms1 ,pomm4 ,jasmin #ajj1 ,pomm4 ,tubereuse #bjj and ,pomm4 ,acacia and ,pomm4 ,orange each #ajj2 bergamot oil #c1 oil of lemons #a1 angelica oil #b drops1 storax tincture #b drachms diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol1 musk tincture ,no4 #b1 #b1 vanilla tincture #e1 ambergris tincture #a1 diluted with an equal quantity of alcohol1 ylang-ylang tincture #ej diluted with alcohol #ej1 wintergreen tincture #ab diluted with alcohol #ab1 bitter-almond oil #a diluted with alcohol #a4 ,extrait bouquet ,victoria ,,ii4--,extracts ,no4 #b from ,pomm4 ,rose #ajj drachms1 ,pomm4 ,orange and ,pomm4 ,tubereuse each #ej2 ,pomm4 ,jasmin #aej1 ,pomm4 ,hliotrope #ajj2 lemon oil #e1 verbena oil #a1 ,african rose geranium oil #b1 musk tincture ,no4 #b1 #aj1 musk-root tincture ,no4 #b1 #bj1 orris-root tincture ,no4 #b1 #ge1 civet tincture #a diluted with alcohol #a1 ambergris tincture #a diluted with alcohol #a1 tolu-balsam tincture #e diluted with alcohol #e4 ,extrait spring flower ,,ii4--,extracts ,no4 #b from ,pomm4 ,jasmin1 ,pomm4 ,cassie1 ,pomm4 ,orange1 ,pomm4 ,jonquille1 ,pomm4 ,tubereuse and ,pomm4 ,violette1 each #ajj drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,rose #ej1 ,pomm4 ,rsda #ajj1 and ,pomm4 ,hliotrope and ,acacia1 each #ej2 neroli oil #a1 bergamot oil #b1 vitivert oil #ac drops1 rose-oil tincture from ,turkish rose oil #be drachms1 diluted with alcohol #be1 musk-root tincture ,no4 #b1 #ab1 musk tincture ,no4 #b1 #ab1 orris-root tincture ,no4 #b1 #be1 civet tincture #a diluted with alcohol #a4 ,extrait ixora ,,ii4--,extracts ,no4 #b from ,pomm4 ,tubereuse #abe drachms1 from ,pomm4 ,cassie and ,pomm4 ,rsda each #age2 bergamot oil #b1 orris-root tincture ,no4 #b1 #abe1 musk tincture ,no4 #b1 #aj1 benzoin tincture #ab diluted with alcohol #ab4 ,extrait ,frangipani ,,ii4--,extracts ,no4 #b from ,pomm4 ,cassie #cge drachms1 and ,pomm4 ,jasmin #abe2 ,african rose geranium oil #ab1 cassia oil #b1 licari oil #c1 sandal-wood oil #a1 orris-root tincture ,no4 #b1 #bej1 angelica tincture ,no4 #b1 #bj1 musk tincture ,no4 #b1 #ab1 storax tincture #f diluted with alcohol #f4 ,cologne water1 eau de ,cologne4--,owing to its excellent properties1 ,cologne water is1 without doubt1 one of the most popular perfumes4 ,it was invented early in the eighteenth century1 and is perhaps the only perfume which has kept its reputation for so long a time4 ,it was formerly employed as a medicine in all imaginable diseases1 and even now is in some cases successfully used in slight ailments1 such as headache1 nausea1 etc4 ,the success and reputation of ,cologne water are the natural results of a good product prepared with a thorough knowledge of the subject4 ,however1 in order to be enabled to impart to ,cologne water its generally known excellent qualities1 it is necessary to have a thorough knowledge of the materials used1 as well as to understand the method of fabrication1 and the proper treatment of all4 ,for the preparation of actually good ,cologne water employment of the best materials is the first condition4 ,the alcohol must be pure1 i4 e41 free from fusel oil1 and #ie to #if per cent4 strong1 so as to effect a ready and complete solution of the volatile oils4 ,the latter also should be of the best quality and proper age1 i4 e41 neither too young nor too old4 ,if too young or too recently distilled1 the aroma is not thoroughly developed1 and if1 on the other hand1 too old1 they have lost the greater portion of their aroma1 are thickly fluid1 acquire a dark coloration1 and are finally converted into a resinous substance in which condition they are entirely unfit for finer products4 ,a cool and dry cellar is required for storing volatile oils1 and they must also be protected from air and sunlight4 ,regarding the durability of the volatile oils used in the preparation of ,cologne water1 the following may be said3-- ,bergamot oil is quite durable2 in well-closed bottles stored in a cool cellar it keeps quite well for #c to #d years4 ,oil of lemons is1 however1 very sensitive1 and has to be especially protected against heat1 by which it is readily decomposed and1 so to say1 turns sour4 ,freshly-distilled neroli oil should never be used1 it acquiring its proper aroma only after being stored for about #b years2 on the other hand1 it should not be too old4 ,when #f to #h years old1 it shows a tendency to rancidity1 which can1 however1 be prevented by mixing it at the proper time with an equal quantity of alcohol of the best quality4 ,petit-grain oil is apt to spoil when kept for several years1 and hence it is not advisable to have too large a supply of it on hand4 ,besides the ,french variety of this volatile oil1 there has existed for several years past another kind1 namely the ,paraguay petit-grain oil1 which is about one-half cheaper than the ,french4 ,while some consider both oils as equally good1 the ,french product no doubt deserves the preference4 ,of lavender oil only the best ,french oil1 especially made in ,france for the preparation of ,eau de ,cologne1 should be used4 ,the price of the ,english ,mitcham lavender oil1 being six times that of the ,french oil1 is simply excessive4 ,of rosemary oil1 an especially fine quality for ,cologne water1 which can be highly recommended1 is also manufactured in ,france4 ,of balm oil only the best ,german product should be taken4 ,the three varieties of volatile oils last mentioned keep for years1 especially when kept in hermetically-closed bottles in a cool place protected from the sun4 ,rose water and orange-blossom water also need careful treatment1 the bottles containing them requiring to be well stoppered and kept in a cool place4 ,these waters being liable to spoil1 the supply of them should be renewed from year to year4 ,as regards the compounding of the volatile oils1 it is advisable to mix them in a capacious glass flask1 add at least an equal weight of alcohol of the best quality1 shake thoroughly1 let the mixture stand about #ad days1 and then in the apparatus incorporate it with the required quantity of alcohol4 ,when the alcohol and volatile oils are intimately mixed1 the mixture is allowed to stand quietly for about #ad days1 when solution of the volatile oils will be complete4 ,now add1 with vigorous agitation1 the rose water and the orange-blossom water1 and let the whole stand quietly to become clear4 ,cologne water thus carefully prepared answers all demands4 ,special attention is here called to the fact that all manipulation by the addition of fixing or conspicuous substances is injudicious4 ,an addition of tincture of musk or civet should particularly be avoided4 ,nervous people immediately detect such additions1 even if present only in very small quantities1 and in most cases refuse the ,cologne water containing them4 ,experience having shown that all alcoholic perfumes develop their proper aroma only after storing for some time1 provision must be made to have always a sufficient supply of ,cologne water on hand4 ,it is best to keep it in large glass balloons in a cool cellar4 ,wooden vessels are impracticable on account of their permeability and other evils4 ,metallic vessels1 if used1 should be tinned4 ,vessels defective in this respect1 or tinned with tin containing lead1 exert an injurious effect upon the aroma of the water4 ,in the latter case1 lead is dissolved1 even if only in small quantities1 and a dirty precipitate injurious to the odor of the ,cologne water is formed4 ,the filtering of the ,cologne water is best effected through white filtering paper and a glass funnel2 the paper1 however1 should not have been bleached with chlorine1 the odor of the latter being readily perceived and having an injurious effect upon the aroma of the water4 ,filtering should be avoided as much as possible by carefully decanting off the clear water and filtering the sediment only4 ,filtering through charcoal1 magnesia1 or other clarifying agents1 should not be made use of for fine perfumes1 their odor being injured by all such means4 ,in the following a selection of receipts for ,cologne water is given2 it is1 however1 especially mentioned that only good1 pure materials must be used even for the inferior qualities4 ,a receipt for the now fashionable ,maiglckchen ,eau de ,cologne is also given4 ,cologne water1 quality ,i4--,bring into a large glass balloon #ie to #if per cent4 alcohol of the best quality #g4i gallons1 lemon oil #ad4aa ozs41 bergamot oil #ae1 neroli oil #d4bc1 ,french extra lavender oil #a4je oz41 rosemary oil #j4g1 best ,german balm oil #j4db2 mix thoroughly1 and after #ad days add best orange-blossom water and rose water each #b4fd quarts4 ,mix again thoroughly1 and then let stand until wanted for use4 ,cologne water1 quality ,,ii4--,bring into a large glass balloon #ie to #if per cent4 alcohol of the best quality #g4i gallons1 lemon oil #aj4eh ozs41 bergamot oil #ab4cd1 neroli oil #a4gf1 ,french extra lavender oil #j4h1 rosemary oil #j4fc1 finest ,german balm oil #j4ce1 ,french petit-grain oil #j4h2 mix thoroughly1 and after #ad days add best orange-blossom water and rose water each #b4fd quarts4 ,mix again thoroughly1 and then let stand until wanted for use4 ,cologne water1 quality ,,iii4--,bring into a large glass balloon #ie to #if per cent4 alcohol of the best quality #g4i gallons1 lemon oil #g4je ozs41 bergamot oil #g4id1 ,portugal oil #c4eb1 ,french petit-grain oil #a4eh1 finest rosemary oil #j4eb1 lavender oil #j4g1 orange-blossom water and rose water each #a4eh quarts1 distilled water #b4aa quarts4 ,proceed in the same manner as given for qualities ,i and ,,ii4 ,cologne water1 quality ,,iv4--,bring into a large glass balloon alcohol free from fusel oil #g4i gallons1 lavender oil #b4fd ozs41 ,portugal oil #b4fd1 petit-grain oil #j4g1 rosemary oil #j4eb1 bergamot oil #c4eb1 lemon oil #c4eb1 distilled water #g4i quarts4 ,if this quality1 after standing for some weeks1 should not become clear1 use some magnesia in filtering1 or use less water4 ,cologne water1 quality ,v4--,bring into a glass balloon alcohol free from fusel oil #g4i gallons1 ,portugal oil #j4hh oz41 rosemary oil #j4hh1 lavender oil1 bergamot oil1 and lemon oil each #a4gf4 ,after standing for #ad days1 add #g4i quarts of distilled water4 ,proceed in the same manner as given for quality ,,iv4 ,maiglckchen ,eau de ,cologne4--#ie to #if per cent4 alcohol of the finest quality #aj4ef quarts1 bergamot oil and lemon oil each #c4eb ozs41 neroli oil #j4g1 ,french extra lavender oil #j4ba1 rosemary oil #j4ad1 best ,german balm oil #j4g1 ylang-ylang oil #j4ag1 maiglckchen 7lily of the valley7 extract #b4aa pints4 ,dissolve the #j4ag oz4 of ylang-ylang oil by itself in #j4h pint of alcohol of the best quality1 and when the solution is entirely clear add it to the rest in the balloon4 ,after standing for #ad days add carefully orange-blossom water and rose water each #a4je pints2 shake thoroughly and let the mixture stand quietly until perfectly clear4 ,various other receipts for ,cologne water4--,i4 ,bergamot oil #b drachms1 oil of lemon #b drachms1 oil of origanum #f drops1 oil of rosemary #bj drops1 alcohol #a pint1 orange-flower water #a oz4 ,,ii4 ,bergamot oil #ad parts1 citron oil #cd1 oil of neroli 7petale7 #bj1 oil of neroli 7bigarade7 #g1 rosemary oil #ad1 grape spirit #fjjj4 ,,iii4 ,cologne spirits #c quarts1 oils of rosemary1 bergamot1 cedrat1 and lemon each #b drachms1 oil of neroli #a drachm1 water 7warm7 #b pints2 mix1 filter until clear4 ,,iv4 ,cologne spirits #c quarts1 oil of lemon #e drachms1 oil of bergamot #d drachms1 ,portugal oil #c drachms1 neroli oil drachm1 petit-grain oil and rosemary oil each drachm1 lavender oil #be drops1 oil of cloves #f drops1 extract ,pomm4 jasmine #d ozs41 water 7warm7 #cb ozs42 mix4 ,v4 ,cologne spirits #a gallon1 rosemary oil oz41 lemon oil #a oz41 lavender oil #a ozs41 cinnamon oil #bj drops1 warm water #a quart2 mix4 ,eau de ,lavande4--,for eau de lavande1 but two receipts are given3 ,eau de vie de ,lavande double ambre and eau de ,lavande double1 the former being a very agreeable perfume for toilet purposes1 and is used as an addition to wash-water as well as to baths and for fumigating4 ,on account of its balsamic constituents1 eau de ,lavande ambre in being manufactured cannot be mixed with water1 as the latter would produce an emulsion which cannot be removed4 ,eau de ,lavande double is used for the toilet1 in the wash-water1 or the bath4 ,it is very popular1 its action upon the skin and nerves being refreshing and stimulating4 ,eau de vie de ,lavande double ambre4--,alcohol of the best quality #e4ah quarts1 best quality of lavender oil #c4eb ozs41 ,french rose geranium oil #j4g1 oils of cassia1 bergamot1 lemon1 and ,french petit grain each #j4hh1 ,peru balsam #e4bi1 orris-root tincture #b4aa quarts1 ambergris tincture #e4bi ozs41 musk tincture #j4bh1 storax tincture #h4ha1 tolu-balsam tincture #e4bi1 benzoin tincture #aj4eh4 ,no water should be added4 ,eau de ,lavande double4--,best quality of alcohol #aj4ef quarts1 best lavender oil #h4ha ozs41 ,portugal oil and bergamot oil each #a4gf4 ,after #ad days add #b4aa pints of orange-blossom water4 ,aqua mellis4--,coriander seed #g lbs41 cloves #ab ozs41 storax #h ozs41 nutmegs 7bruised7 #h ozs41 lemon-peel #aj ozs41 calamus #f ozs41 proof spirit #ae pints1 water #h pints4 ,macerate for a month in a closed vessel1 then distil #bb pints1 and to the distillate add3 ,orange-flower water #e pints1 rose oil #bd drops1 ambergris #a grain1 vanilla #b ozs4 ,macerate for #h days and filter4 ,eau de ,lisbonne4--,lemon oil #b ozs41 ,portugal oil #d ozs41 rose oil #d drachms1 alcohol #e quarts4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,dry ,,perfumes4 ,in ancient times dry perfumes were almost exclusively used1 but1 independent of fumigating agents1 which will be considered later on1 the consumption of dry or solid perfumes is at present a limited one4 ,sachet powders 7poudres pour sachets7 are1 however1 still manufactured in large quantities4 ,the preparation of solid perfumes with the assistance of paraffine has been recently commenced1 but up to the present time such perfumes have not become of any importance4 ,smelling salts may also be classed among the dry perfumes4 ,,sachet ,,powders4--,sachet powders 7poudres pour sachets7 are generally put into silk or satin bags or into ornamental paper envelopes and are useful for perfuming clothes1 drawers1 trunks1 desks1 letter paper1 etc4 ,the incorporation of the powders with bags or envelopes is effected by dividing them between thin layers of cotton1 bringing the cotton together with the powder in fine tissue paper into the shape of the respective bag1 cushion1 etc41 and then inclosing them in the bag or envelope4 ,a selection of receipts for such powders is here given4 ,their manufacture is not difficult2 however1 the weighing off of the constituents should be conscientiously done1 and in mixing the powders with the volatile oils1 etc41 care should be had not to cause any unnecessary dust and consequent loss of powder4 ,after mixing1 the powder is passed through a sieve4 ,sachet la rose4--,ground rose leaves1 ground rose wood and pulverized starch each #ej drachms1 ,turkish rose oil #a1 rose-geranium oil #b1 oil of cloves #a1 bergamot oil #b1 musk tincture #a4 ,sachet la violette4--,ground orris root #abe drachms1 ground lavender flowers and pulverized starch each #ej1 liquid orris-root oil#ba #b1 sandal-wood oil 1 musk tincture #b1 extrait violette #be4 #ba ,the so-called liquid orris-root oil is not pure orris-root oil1 but generally a distillate of orris-root with bergamot oil2 there are1 however1 also products in which the orris root is distilled with copaiba balsam oil and cedar oil4 ,hliotrope sachet powder4--,ground lavender flowers #ej drachms1 ground orris root and ground rose leaves each #be1 ground benzoin #aj1 pulverized starch #ej1 bergamot oil #aj1 rose geranium oil #b1 oil of cloves and musk tincture each #a1 vanilla tincture #ab1 extrait hliotrope #be1 oil of bitter almonds #b drops4 ,ylang-ylang sachet powder4--,ground starch #ajj drachms1 orris-root powder #be1 ground lavender flowers #ab1 ground vitivert root and ground rose wood each #be1 bergamot oil #b1 ylang-ylang oil #a1 tinctures of musk and of cumarin each #a1 extrait ylang-ylang #bj4 ,jockey club sachet4--,ground orris root1 ground rose leaves and ground rose wood each #ej drachms1 ground lavender flowers #be1 ,african rose geranium oil #e1 oils of ,ceylon cinnamon and bergamot each #b1 oils of cloves and cedar each #a1 musk tincture #b1 civet tincture #a1 extrait jockey club #bb4 ,sachet aux millefleurs4--,ground starch #ej drachms1 ground orris root1 ground lavender flowers1 ground rose wood1 and exhausted vanilla pulverized1 each #ej drachms1 pulverized cloves #bj1 bergamot oil and ,african geranium oil each #b1 verbena oil #a1 tincture of benzoin and musk root each #e1 musk tincture #e4 ,lily of the valley sachet powder4--,pulverized starch #ej drachms1 ground orris root #be1 ground lavender flowers and ground rose wood each #ab1 ground vitivert root and ground benzoin each #be1 bergamot oil #e1 wintergreen oil #b1 ylang-ylang oil and angelica oil each 1 bitter almond oil #b drops1 storax tincture #e drachms1 musk tincture #a1 extrait muguet #be4 ,patchouli sachet powder4--,ground patchouli leaves #ajj1 ground rose leaves and ground lavender flowers1 each #be1 patchouli oil #b1 oil of cloves #a1 bergamot oil and ,african geranium oil each #b4 ,frangipani sachet powder4--,pulverized starch #be drachms1 ground orris root #ge1 ground rose leaves #ej1 ground lavender flowers #be1 ,portugal oil #e1 petit-grain oil and ,african geranium oil1 #b1 ,ceylon cinnamon oil #a1 musk tincture #b1 civet tincture #a1 tinctures of cumarin and vitivert each #aj4 ,victoria sachet powder4--,ground lavender flowers #ej drachms1 ground rose wood and ground rose leaves each #be1 ground orange peel #ab1 ground benzoin #be1 ground vitivert root #ab1 ,turkish rose oil #a1 bergamot oil #b1 oils of cloves and verbena each #a1 musk tincture #a1 civet tincture #a4 ,rsda sachet powder4--,ground orris root #ajj drachms1 ground rose leaves #ej1 ground rose wood #be1 clove oil1 ,african geranium oil1 and bergamot oil each #b1 musk-root tincture #aj1 vanilla tincture #e1 musk tincture #a1 extrait rsda #be4 ,musk sachet powder4--,ground musk root1 ground exhausted musk sacs1 and ground lavender flowers1 each #ej drachms1 ground benzoin #be1 cassia oil1 palma-rose oil1 and clove oil each #b1 musk tincture #bb4 ,ess-bouquet sachet powder4--,ground rose wood and ground lavender flowers each #ej drachms1 ground vitivert root #be1 ground opopanax #ab1 ground orris root #be1 bergamot oil and lemon oil each #b1 clove oil #a1 ,ceylon cinnamon oil #a1 ,african geranium oil #b1 sandal-wood oil and licari oil each #a1 musk tincture #b1 civet tincture #a1 extrait ess-bouquet #be4 ,new-mown hay sachet powder4--,pulverized starch #be drachms1 ground rose leaves and ground lavender flowers1 each #ej1 ground orris root and ground benzoin1 each #be1 bergamot oil #e1 angelica oil and ,java cananga oil each #a1 tonka-bean extract #g1 musk tincture #a1 vitivert tincture #g4 ,orange sachet powder4--,ground orange peels #ajj drachms1 ground lemon peels #ej1 ground lavender flowers #be1 ,portugal oil #aj1 neroli oil and petit grain oil each #a1 bergamot oil #b1 musk-tincture #a1 musk-root tincture #aj4 ,,solid ,,perfumes ,,with ,,paraffine4 ,the solid perfumes simply consist of hard paraffine1 which1 when melted1 is perfumed with a corresponding quantity of any desired perfume-essence and poured into moulds4 ,a few mixtures for such perfumes are here given3-- ,white rose4--,rose geranium oil and bergamot oil each #aj drachms1 patchouli oil and oil of cloves #a4 ,ess-bouquet4--,coriander oil #a drachm1 oil of cloves #g1 nutmeg oil #c4e1 lavender oil #aj1 sandal-wood oil #c4e1 bergamot oil #cj1 rose oil and rose-geranium oil each #b1 neroli oil #j4f4 ,lavender odor4--,lavender oil #ej drachms1 bergamot oil #be1 cinnamon oil #j4c1 geranium oil #b4e1 neroli oil #j4e4 ,eau de ,cologne4--,bergamot oil and lime oil each #cj drachms1 lemon oil and neroli oil each #ae1 rosemary oil #e1 rose geranium oil #j4f4 ,,smelling ,,salts4 ,smelling salts are ammoniacal perfumes in a solid form1 ,preston salt 7sel de ,preston7 being one of the most popular4 ,it is generally prepared by intimately rubbing together in a porcelain mortar equal parts of sal ammoniac or ammonium carbonate and lime freshly slaked to a powder1 and perfuming the mixture1 according to the quality of volatile salts desired1 with a finer or inferior perfume4 ,william ,w4 ,bartlett prepares ,preston salt without lime according to the following receipt3 ,powdered chloride of ammonium #a ozs41 powdered carbonate of potassium #a oz4 #f drachms1 coarsely powdered carbonate of ammonium #c drachms1 oils of clove and bergamot each #aj drops4 ,mr4 ,bartlett also gives a formula for a menthol pungent which is quite agreeable to the smell and a novelty for headache and faintness4 ,it is prepared by leaving out the essential oils in the above formula and substituting in their place #a drachm of menthol4 ,white smelling salt consists essentially of perfumed carbonate of ammonia4 ,there are several receipts for it1 one frequently used being as follows3 ,mix in a capacious porcelain mortar #b4b lbs4 of ammonium carbonate with #a4a lb4 of ammonia1 cover the mortar and let it stand quietly4 ,in the course of a few days the contents have been converted into normal carbonate of ammonia4 ,the latter is reduced to a coarse powder and perfumed with bergamot oil #j4ef drachm1 lavender oil #j4i1 nutmeg oil1 clove oil1 and rose oil each #j4bh1 cinnamon oil #b4hb4 ,the incorporation of the volatile oils is effected by first triturating about #a_/aj of the salt with the volatile oils and then gradually incorporating with this perfumed mass the rest of the salt1 a uniform distribution of the odor being in this manner effected4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,fumigating ,,essences1 ,,pastilles1 ,,powders1 ,,etc4 ,fumigating agents are divided into liquid and dry1 the first being alcoholic solutions1 and perhaps most popular4 ,they consist of extractions from resins1 balsams1 leaves1 flowers1 seeds1 wood1 and roots1 compounded with volatile oils1 alcohol1 and alcoholic extracts from ,french flower pomades4 ,it should be the aim of the perfumer to compound these substances so that a harmonious blending together of all the ingredients is attained4 ,the object of fumigating living rooms1 sleeping rooms1 and sick chambers is not only to make abode in these rooms more agreeable by an attempt to cover the disagreeable odors1 but chiefly to render them innoxious1 thus combining the useful with the agreeable4 ,for several years past a strong prejudice against fumigating has been developed4 ,such prejudice may be justified in certain cases1 especially when the fumigating agents contain musk or are otherwise incorrectly composed4 ,an addition of musk1 even in very small quantities1 causes nervous persons to dislike fumigating agents containing it1 because it is a well-known fact that musk excites the nerves in a high degree1 and hence in most cases fumigating with agents containing it does more harm than good4 ,the mode of fumigating has also to be taken into consideration4 ,it is1 for instance1 entirely incorrect to place the fumigating agent upon very hot iron1 a hot stovepipe1 or glowing coals1 because in evaporating upon hot iron1 it leaves behind an empyreumatic1 pungent odor excitatory to cough1 while the actual aroma is lost and thus the object of fumigating is frustrated4 ,to derive the best effects from the fumigating agent it should be placed upon a moderately warm article so that it will slowly evaporate4 ,liquid fumigating agents may also be mixed in a porcelain vessel with distilled water4 ,by placing the vessel upon a warm stove1 evaporation proceeds at a still slower rate1 because the fumigating agent can only evaporate together with the water1 whereby its aroma becomes still more agreeable4 ,the use of rose water or orange water instead of distilled water considerably enhances the success of fumigating4 ,the so-called atomizers may here be mentioned4 ,they are very practicable for cold fumigating1 i4 e41 for the distribution of pine odor1 ,cologne water1 etc4 ,on account of their content of musk the atomization of ,extraits d',odeurs in the presence of nervous people cannot be recommended4 ,the dry fumigating agents1 such as powders1 pastilles1 paper1 and lacquer1 are less popular than the fluid1 it being necessary for the purpose of fumigating to place them upon hot articles1 heat them1 or burn them4 ,these manipulations develop more or less smoke1 which frequently exerts a disagreeable effect upon the respiratory organs4 ,the most injurious of these methods of hot fumigation is that by means of hot coals1 whereby the aroma of the fumigating agent is largely destroyed1 and the very injurious gas emanating from the coals is inhaled4 ,a heated piece of sheet-iron is1 however1 very suitable for fumigation by means of powder or lacquer4 ,scatter the powder upon it or coat it with the lacquer4 ,several approved receipts for liquid and dry fumigating agents are here given4 ,,fumigating ,,essences ,,and ,,vinegars4 ,great care should be exercised in making the following receipts for liquid fumigating agents4 ,after mixing1 shake thoroughly1 and let the product stand quietly for at least several weeks1 the aroma of all alcoholic perfumes being improved by storing for some time4 ,it need scarcely be said that alcohol of the finest quality is to be used1 since1 if it contains fusel oil1 the attainment of a fine product is absolutely impossible4 ,to decrease the cost of manufacture1 it might be permissible to increase the proportion of alcohol1 but an inferior quality of it should1 under no conditions1 be employed4 ,rose-flower fumigating essence4--,alcohol1 extract ,no4 #a1 from ,french-rose pomade and benzoin tincture each #a quart1 musk-root tincture ,no4 #a1 #h ozs41 ,turkish rose oil and clove oil each #b drachms1 ,french rose-geranium oil #e drachms4 ,dissolve the rose oil in the other volatile oils4 ,flower fumigating essence1 hliotrope4--,alcohol and extract ,no4 #a from ,french hliotrope pomade each #a quart1 vanilla tincture ,no4 #a and orris-root tincture each #a pint1 tinctures of benzoin and tolu balsam each pint1 musk-root tincture ,no4 #a1 #g ozs41 cumarin tincture #e ozs41 ,portugal oil #a oz41 ,french rose-geranium oil #aa drachms1 clove oil #e drachms1 best lavender oil #aa drachms4 ,violet flower fumigating essence4--,alcohol #a quart1 extracts ,no4 #a from ,french-violet pomade and cassie pomade each #a pint1 orris-root tincture ,no4 #a1 #a quart1 benzoin tincture #a pint1 storax tincture pint1 abelmosk tincture ,no4 #a1 #d ozs41 ambergris tincture #aa drachms1 orris-root oil #b drachms1 bergamot oil #aa drachms1 best lavender oil #e drachms1 myrrh oil #a drachms1 basil oil #b drachms4 ,oriental-flower fumigating essence4--,alcohol #a quart1 extract from ,french-rose pomade #ag ozs41 extracts from ,french-jasmine pomade1 jonquille pomade1 hliotrope pomade and cassie pomades each #g ozs41 vanilla tincture #g ozs41 tinctures of orris root1 tonka beans1 and musk root each #c ozs41 benzoin tincture #h ozs41 tolu-balsam tincture #d ozs41 storax tincture #e ozs41 olibanum tincture #c ozs41 ambergris tincture and bergamot oil each #a ozs41 ,ceylon cinnamon oil #e drachms1 best lavender oil #aa ozs41 ,turkish rose oil and clove oil each #e drachms1 neroli oil #b drachms1 ,peru balsam #c ozs4 ,pine odor 7for atomizing7 ,no4 #a4--;,alcohol #b quarts1 pine oil 7from ,pinus picea7 #g ozs41 bergamot oil #e drachms4 ,pine odor 7for atomizing7 ,no4 #b4--;,alcohol #b quarts1 dwarf-pine oil 7from ,pinus pumilio7 #e ozs41 oil of lemons #e drachms4 ,juniper odor4--,alcohol #b quarts1 extra fine juniper berry oil #c ozs41 best lavender oil #e drachms1 juniper tincture #h ozs4 ,pine odor or juniper odor may also be mixed in a vessel with water1 and thus used for fumigating4 ,fumigating balsam4--,alcohol #c quarts1 orris-root tincture #a quart1 tinctures of benzoin1 tolu balsam1 and storax each #ag ozs41 olibanum tincture #h ozs41 tinctures of abelmosk and musk-root each #c ozs41 vanilla tincture #a ozs41 ,peru balsam #d ozs41 bergamot oil #a ozs41 lemon oil #ad drachms1 ,african rose geranium oil #aa drachms1 clove oil and cassia oil each #ad drachms1 petit-grain oil #aa drachms1 fine lavender oil #a ozs4 ,fumigating water4--,alcohol #aj quarts1 orris-root tincture ,no4 #b1 tinctures of storax1 benzoin1 and tolu balsam each #a quart1 abelmosk tincture ,no4 #b1 #g ozs41 olibanum tincture #h ozs41 ,peru balsam and lavender oil each #c ozs41 cassia oil and bergamot oil each #a oz41 thyme oil oz41 clove oil and palmarosa oil each #a oz4 ,fumigating vinegar4--,alcohol #b quarts1 orris-root tincture #a quart1 benzoin tincture #a pint1 tinctures of tolu balsam and storax each pint1 musk-root tincture #d ozs41 tinctures of vitivert and vanilla each #c ozs41 ,peru balsam #a ozs41 lavender oil and clove oil each #h drachms1 ,ceylon cinnamon oil and ,african rose-geranium oil each #e drachms1 acetic acid #d ozs4 ,,fumigating ,,powders4 ,the lavender flowers1 marigold flowers 7,calendula officinalis71 rose leaves1 etc41 used in the preparation of fumigating powders are not pulverized1 but so far comminuted with a suitable instrument as to form a distinctly colored mixture4 ,to dissolve the volatile oils1 they are thoroughly mixed with the alcoholic extracts mentioned in the receipts4 ,the perfume thus obtained is finally incorporated with the powders by rubbing together with the hands4 ,to prevent loss of perfume1 it is mixed with the powders in a porcelain or enamelled vessel4 ,ordinary fumigating powder4--,lavender flowers1 marigold flowers1 corn flowers1 rose leaves1 rasped orris root each #b lbs41 cloves and cinnamon each #c ozs41 rasped sanders wood #ag ozs41 rasped cedar wood #h ozs41 fumigating balsam #ag ozs41 bergamot oil and ,african rose-geranium oil each #a ozs41 lavender oil #aa drachms4 ,besides the above-mentioned dry constituents1 the residues from odoriferous substances1 such as vanilla1 orris root1 vitivert root1 juniper berries1 etc41 employed in the preparation of tinctures may be used for ordinary fumigating powders4 ,rose fumigating powder4--,rose leaves and rose wood each #b lbs41 lavender flowers and sanders wood each #a lb41 corn flowers lb41 tinctures of musk root and abelmosk each #a ozs41 ,african rose-geranium oil #a oz41 ,turkish rose oil #b drachms1 bergamot oil #h drachms1 clove oil #b drachms1 nutmeg oil #a drachms1 extract from ,french rose pomade #c ozs4 ,violet fumigating powder4--,rasped orris root #d lbs41 lavender flowers and rasped sanders wood each #a lb41 orris-root tincture1 abelmosk tincture1 and bergamot oil each #a ozs41 orris-root oil1 basil oil1 and ,ceylon-cinnamon oil each #b drachms1 extract from ,french cassie pomade #a ozs4 ,orange fumigating powder4--,orange peels #d lbs41 orange flowers and marigold flowers each #a lb41 musk-root tincture and ,portugal oil each #a ozs41 petit-grain oil #e drachms1 bergamot oil #aa drachms1 extract from ,french orange flower pomade #c ozs4 ,new-mown hay fumigating powder4--,lavender flowers #b lbs41 rose-leaves1 rasped sanders wood1 and rasped orris root each #a lb41 powdered benzoin1 ,roman camomile1 curled mint and balm each lb41 exhausted tonka beans #a lb41 patchouli leaves and bergamot oil each #aa drachms1 ,african rose-geranium oil #h drachms1 tonka-bean extract and abelmosk tincture each #a ozs41 extract from ,french rsda pomade #c ozs4 ,,fumigating ,,paper4 ,bring into a capacious shallow dish a quantity of fumigating balsam and repeatedly draw sheets of card-board through it1 allowing the sheets to thoroughly drain off and dry after each drawing through4 ,after repeating the operation about four times1 the sheets will be sufficiently perfumed and are then coated by means of a fine brush with a solution of gum-arabic in rose water4 ,this gives to the sheets a dull lustre1 while the thin layer of gum-arabic also prevents the volatilization of the aroma4 ,the sheets thus perfumed are cut up into pieces the size of a playing card1 and six to twelve such pieces put up in an envelope4 ,for use the paper is not ignited1 but only heated4 ,with one such piece a room can be several times perfumed4 ,it may be remarked that before perfuming1 the name of the firm1 directions for use1 etc41 are generally printed upon the card-board4 ,,fumigating ,,pastilles4 ,some perfumers make more or less a specialty of the manufacture of fumigating pastilles4 ,they are generally of a red or black color1 different perfumes1 names and qualities4 ,to prepare them1 the finely pulverized substances are passed through a sieve and mixed in a capacious dish with the volatile oils1 tinctures1 etc4 ,the mixture of powder and perfume is then made into a mass with a mucilage of gum tragacanth1 which is thoroughly kneaded to make it homogeneous4 ,the saltpetre given in the receipts is dissolved by itself in distilled water and last of all added to the mass4 ,its object is to keep the pastilles burning after ignition4 ,as regards the mucilage of gum-tragacanth1 it may be said that it readily spoils1 especially in summer4 ,when it begins to get watery it is already useless and soon acquires a bad odor2 by decomposition it loses its cementing power4 ,hence only a sufficient quantity for immediate use should be made at one time4 ,the moulding of the pastilles is very simple4 ,a number of tin cones into which the mass is pressed are used for the purpose4 ,after standing for a short time the pastilles are taken from the moulds and allowed to dry4 ,ordinary red fumigating pastilles4--,pulverized sanders wood and pulverized ,sumatra benzoin each #b lbs41 finely pulverized sandarac and olibanum each #a lb41 saltpetre #d ozs4 dissolved in distilled water2 clove oil #e drachms1 palmarosa oil #aa drachms1 lavender oil #ad drachms4 ,mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as required4 ,ordinary black fumigating pastilles4--,charcoal #b lbs41 finely pulverized ,sumatra benzoin #b lbs41 finely pulverized olibanum #a lb41 saltpetre #d ozs41 dissolved in distilled water2 lavender oil1 cassia oil1 and citronella oil each #aa drachms4 ,mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as required4 ,musk fumigating pastilles4--,pulverized genuine linden charcoal #b lbs41 pulverized musk root and orris root each #a lb41 pulverized sanders wood1 ,siam benzoin1 and abelmosk each lb41 saltpetre #d ozs41 dissolved in distilled water2 ,tonkin musk #a drachms1 triturated in distilled water2 ,african-rose geranium oil1 ,portugal and cedar oil each #e drachms4 ,mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as required4 ,rose fumigating pastilles4--,pulverized sanders wood #b lbs41 powdered sandarac and ,siam benzoin each #a lb41 carmine1 dissolved in rose water1 #a drachms2 saltpetre #c ozs41 bergamot oil #e drachms1 clove oil1 ,turkish rose oil1 and ,french rose-geranium oil each #b4ge drachms4 ,gum-tragacanth dissolved in rose water as much as required4 ,violet fumigating pastilles4--,powdered orris root #b lbs41 pulverized sanders wood #a lb41 pulverized ,siam benzoin and opopanax each lb41 saltpetre #c ozs41 dissolved in distilled water2 tolu-balsam tincture #c ozs41 orris-root oil and bergamot oil each #e drachms1 myrrh oil #b drachms4 ,mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as required4 ,millefleurs fumigating pastilles4--,pulverized linden charcoal #b lbs41 pulverized sanders wood1 ,siam benzoin1 and orris root each #a lb41 pulverized olibanum lb42 saltpetre #d ozs41 dissolved in distilled water2 bergamot oil and ,african rose-geranium oil each #ad drachms1 ,ceylon cinnamon oil1 ,paraguay petit-grain oil1 and juniper-berry oil each #e drachms1 ,peru balsam #a ozs41 civet tincture #e drachms1 musk-root tincture #c ozs4 ,mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as required4 ,fumigating lacquer4--,fumigating lacquer consists chiefly of resins1 to which sufficient liquid storax is added to render the mass plastic1 so that sticks of any desired length and thickness can be formed therefrom4 ,the resins and licorice mentioned in the receipt given below are gradually and very carefully melted in an iron pan over a gas or petroleum flame4 ,to prevent the resins from scorching1 the bottom of the pan must constantly be kept free with a small iron spatula4 ,when the mass is perfectly fluid the ,frankfort black is added1 and the whole thoroughly worked until no more lumps of ,frankfort black are present4 ,the pan is then taken from the fire1 and1 after allowing the mass to cool somewhat1 it is perfumed with the thoroughly mixed perfume4 ,a lithographic stone1 not too small1 is used for giving the fumigating lacquer a round form4 ,the stone is rubbed with a rag moistened with a very small quantity of olive oil4 ,a small portion of the still very warm mass is then poured upon the stone and rolled with the hands1 which should also be moistened with a little olive oil1 into sticks of desired thickness4 ,the sticks are cut into the desired lengths while the lacquer is still warm1 and the operation is thus continued until the entire mass is worked up4 ,the mass in the pan must1 of course1 be constantly kept liquid4 ,siam benzoin1 olibanum1 and myrrh each #h ozs41 storax as free from water as possible #c ozs41 licorice #ag ozs41 ,peru balsam #c ozs41 ,frankfort black #e ozs41 bergamot oil #ad drachms1 ,african rose-geranium oil1 cassia oil1 juniper-berry oil1 and eucalyptus oil each #aa drachms4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,dentifrices1 ,,mouth-,,waters1 ,,etc4 ,for cleansing and preserving the teeth and gums1 soaps1 powders1 and tinctures are used1 and for removing foul breath1 mouth-waters4 ,great care is required in compounding dentifrices and mouth-waters1 and special attention must be paid to the correct selection of the material4 ,the substances used must be chemically pure1 and no caustic or sharp or grating materials1 such as pumice1 sand1 ossa sepi1 etc41 should be employed1 they destroying the enamel of the teeth4 ,the coloring substances used to give the dentifrices and mouth-waters a pleasing appearance should under no condition be injurious or poisonous1 such as1 for instance1 brilliant rosa1 cinnabar1 aniline1 chrome yellow1 picric acid1 etc4 ,the perfumes have also to be carefully selected1 and all repugnant volatile oils and tinctures1 such as bitter-almond oil1 sandal-wood oil1 musk tincture1 etc41 should be avoided4 ,on the other hand1 peppermint oil forms the principal constituent of the perfume for most dentifrices and mouth-waters1 this preference being not only due to its agreeable odor1 but chiefly to its pleasant1 refreshing1 and stimulating action upon our organs4 ,in accordance with recent medical directions and opinions soap is again employed1 and justly so1 for the better cleansing of the teeth1 whilst formerly it was generally considered injurious4 ,however1 though soap is innocuous to the teeth1 it should be used in very limited quantities1 since its introduction into the mouth is repugnant to many persons1 producing in many cases vomiting4 ,the quality of the soap must also be taken into consideration1 and only the best neutral soap in the form of a powder1 such as is used for fine milled soaps1 should be employed4 ,the alcohol used for the tooth and mouth-waters--more correctly tinctures--should be perfectly free from fusel oil1 and of #ie to #if per cent4 strength4 ,the best qualities of volatile oils should be taken1 and the tinctures prepared with the greatest care4 ,the dentifrices for preventing caries1 among which the thymol preparations are the most prominent1 deserve special attention4 ,the most celebrated physicians have long since recognized thymol as an antiseptic1 it being much used in hospitals1 and is frequently preferred to carbolic acid4 ,for this reason thymol preparations should be used for preserving the teeth4 ,they render good service1 especially in the case of hollow teeth1 as they remove the foul odor and protect the sound teeth from becoming hollow4 ,for cleansing artificial teeth thymol tooth-water can be especially recommended4 ,great care should1 therefore1 be exercised in the preparation of these thymol dentifrices4 ,on the other hand1 according to medical opinions1 dentifrices containing salicylic acid cannot be recommended1 the acid1 it is claimed1 being very injurious to the enamel of the teeth4 ,glycerin1 which occurs in several receipts for dentifrices and mouth-waters1 fulfills a double object2 on the one hand1 its action upon the teeth and mouth is beneficial1 and1 on the other1 it covers the naturally bitter taste of many substances contained in the preparations1 and thus makes them more agreeable to use4 ,the receipts for dentifrices and mouth-waters here given have been thoroughly tested1 and can be highly recommended4 ,tooth and mouth waters4 ,thymol tooth-water4--,alcohol of best quality #e quarts1 chemically pure glycerin of #bh ,b4 #ag ozs41 crystallized thymol #a oz41 white thyme oil and best peppermint oil each #a ozs41 tinctures of arnica and guaiacum each #a ozs41 cochineal tincture1 for coloring1 #b to #c ozs4 ,bring all the ingredients into a glass balloon1 shake thoroughly1 and protect the liquid from sunlight4 ,the cochineal tincture is prepared from #ad ozs4 of cochineal and #a quart of alcohol of best quality1 the arnica tincture from #b lbs4 of arnica root and #b quarts of alcohol of best quality1 and the guaiacum tincture from #e ozs4 of guaiacum-wood and #a quart of alcohol of best quality4 ,eau dentifrice ,botot4--,alcohol of best quality #e quarts1 chemically pure glycerin of #bh ,b4 #ag ozs41 peppermint oil #b ozs41 clove oil #aa drachms1 anise-seed oil #e drachms1 ratany tincture and vanilla tincture each #e ozs41 ,peruvian bark tincture #a ozs41 sanders-wood tincture1 as coloring matter1 #c ozs4 ,proceed as above4 ,the sanders-wood tincture is prepared by macerating #e ozs4 of red sanders wood with #a quart of alcohol4 ,eau dentifrice ,orientale4--,alcohol of best quality #e quarts1 peppermint oil and rose-geranium oil each #a ozs41 clove oil #aa drachms1 extrait rose and ratany tincture each #c ozs41 vanilla tincture #a ozs4 ,proceed as above and color rose color with corallin tincture4 ,the ratany tincture is prepared from #ag ozs4 of ratany root and #a quart alcohol1 and the corallin tincture from #ag ozs4 of corallin and #a quart alcohol4 ,violet mouth-water4--,tincture of benzoin #g parts1 tincture of ratany #cj1 tincture of myrrh #fj1 rose water #bej1 tincture of orris root #ejj1 alcohol #bej4 ,antiseptic gargle4--,the following solution is recommended for sterilizing the mouth after the teeth have been cleansed with a tooth-brush and soap3 ,thymol #c grains1 benzoic acid #de1 tincture of eucalyptus #ahj1 water #a pints4 ,odontine4--,exhaust #c ozs4 of pulverized myrrh with a mixture of #be ozs4 of alcohol and #h ozs4 of water4 ,then dissolve #a ozs4 of ,castile soap shavings in a mixture of #be ozs4 of alcohol and #h ozs4 of water1 and color wine-red with alkannin4 ,then add lemon oil #cj drops1 peppermint oil #cj drops1 wintergreen oil #aj drops1 star-anise oil #cj drops1 and finally #d ozs4 of glycerin4 ,after allowing the whole to stand in a cool place for one or two weeks1 filter1 mix the filtrate with #aj drachms of acetic ether1 and fill in bottles4 ,sozodont4--,white ,castile soap oz41 oil of peppermint #e drops1 oil of wintergreen #ab drops1 glycerin oz41 water #a oz41 alcohol #b ozs41 cochineal tincture sufficient to color4 ,eau de ,botot 7improved74--,cloves1 star-anise1 and soap bark1 each #b drachms1 cochineal #a drachms4 ,pulverize and percolate with the following mixture3 ,alcohol #bj ozs41 rose water #d ozs4 ,to the percolate add3 ,cream of tartar #de grains1 oil of peppermint #a drachms4 ,filter4 ,quinine tooth-water4--,alcohol of best quality #e quarts1 peppermint oil #a oz41 clove oil oz41 ,ceylon cinnamon oil #b drachms1 ,peruvian bark-tincture #h ozs41 guaiacum-tincture #c ozs41 myrrh tincture #a4ge ozs41 glycerine of #bh ,b4 #ag ozs4 ,proceed as above4 ,the ,peruvian bark-tincture is prepared by macerating #h ozs4 of ,peruvian bark in #a quart of alcohol of best quality4 ,dr4 ,stahl's tooth-tincture4--,alcohol of best quality #e quarts1 peppermint oil #a ozs41 clove oil #e drachms1 ,french rose-geranium oil #h drachms1 vanilla-tincture #e ozs41 guaiacum-tincture #c ozs41 benzoin tincture #h ozs41 henna-tincture1 as coloring matter1 #h ozs4 ,bring all the ingredients into a glass bottle1 shake thoroughly and protect the mixture from sunlight4 ,the tincture1 when mixed with water1 gives an emulsion4 ,the henna-tincture is obtained by macerating #ag ozs4 of henna-root in #d quarts of alcohol4 ,esprit de menthe4--,alcohol of best quality #e quarts1 peppermint oil #d ozs4 ,arnica tooth-tincture4--,alcohol of best quality and arnica-tincture each #a quart1 ,peruvian bark-tincture #a pint1 glycerin of #bh ,b4 #e ozs41 cochineal tincture1 as coloring matter1 #a ozs4 ,myrrh tooth-tincture4--,alcohol of best quality #a quart1 myrrh tincture #b quarts1 guaiacum-tincture #h ozs4 ,a few remarks may here be made regarding the use of tooth tinctures4 ,the tinctures should not be used undiluted1 they being apt to make tender gums sore1 cause pain1 and may even produce inflammation4 ,it is best to dilute the tinctures somewhat with water whereby they become milder and more agreeable to the gums4 ,an excellent article for rinsing out the mouth is obtained by pouring a teaspoonful of the tincture into a tumbler of water4 ,,tooth-,,pastes ,,and ,,tooth-,,powders4 ,tooth-paste or odontine1 ,no4 #a4--;,carbonate of magnesium #f lbs41 sugar of milk #b lbs41 precipitated carbonate of calcium #d lbs41 alizarin1 to color1 #a ozs41 best soap-powder #g ozs41 powdered gum-arabic #e ozs41 sugar #ag ozs4 dissolved in distilled water #b quarts1 chemically pure glycerin of #bh ,b4 #ag ozs41 peppermint oil #h ozs41 clove oil #h drachms4 ,pass the magnesia1 sugar of milk1 carbonate of calcium1 alizarin1 soap-powder and gum-arabic through a fine sieve and mix intimately2 dissolve the sugar in the distilled water and add the glycerin to the solution4 ,bring the sifted powders into a mortar or other convenient vessel1 gradually add the fluid and thoroughly mix with the hands4 ,then add the perfume1 and convert the whole into a solid paste with a wooden pestle4 ,instead of mixing and working the mass in a mortar1 the operation is much more rapidly performed by passing the mixture through the rolls of a soap mill1 which must1 of course1 be thoroughly cleansed for the purpose by washing with water4 ,tooth-paste or odontine1 ,no4 #b4--;,carbonate of magnesium and sugar of milk each #b lbs41 precipitated carbonate of calcium #d lbs41 prepared chalk #aj lbs41 sugar #d lbs4 dissolved in water #e quarts1 best soap-powder #b lbs41 alizarin1 as coloring matter1 #g ozs41 peppermint oil #aj ozs41 clove oil #h ozs4 ,this paste is prepared in the same manner as ,no4 #a1 only the proportion of water has to be taken into consideration4 ,to prevent the mass from becoming too soft1 the water should be very gradually added4 ,thymol tooth-paste4--,carbonate of magnesium #d lbs41 sugar of milk #b lbs41 pulverized gum-arabic and soap powder each #c ozs41 carmine nacarat1 as coloring matter1 #b drachms1 and alizarin1 as coloring matter1 #f drachms1 sugar #aj ozs41 dissolved in distilled water #a quarts1 peppermint oil #a ozs41 white thyme oil #b ozs41 crystallized thymol #a ozs41 arnica tincture #g ozs4 ,the thyme oil1 peppermint oil and arnica tincture are brought into a bottle and the thymol is dissolved in the mixture4 ,by previously converting the thymol to a coarse powder solution takes place quite rapidly4 ,the further manipulation is the same as given for tooth-paste ,no4 #a4 ,cherry tooth-paste4--,boil briskly #a oz4 potassium carbonate and #a oz4 of powdered cochineal in a pint of water until reduced to #ab or #ac ozs4 ,when cold1 add #a oz4 cream of tartar1 oz4 alum1 #b ozs4 glycerin1 and water sufficient to make #af ozs4 of filtered solution4 ,then add #d ozs4 of honey and set aside a few days to see if fermentation occurs4 ,carefully mix the liquid with #b lbs4 prepared chalk1 #a ozs4 orris powder and ozs4 cassia powder4 ,non-fermenting cherry tooth-paste4--,fine powdered pumice stone #b ozs41 powdered orris root #b ozs41 powdered myrrh oz41 honey #d ozs41 sufficient liquid cochineal to color1 oil of cloves drachm1 essence of lemon #a drachms1 rose oil #h drops4 ,mix well4 ,odontine paste4--,french chalk #cj drachms1 soap #ae1 sugar #ae1 gum-arabic #b1 peppermint oil #b1 glycerin #h1 water #h4 ,work into a paste4 ,thymol tooth-powder4--,sugar of milk and carbonate of magnesium each #b lbs41 precipitated carbonate of calcium #a lb41 best soap-powder #g ozs41 alizarin1 as coloring matter1 and crystallized thymol1 each #a oz41 glycerin of #bh ,b4 #e ozs41 arnica tincture #g ozs41 white thyme oil #a ozs41 peppermint oil #aa drachms4 ,thoroughly mix--preferably in a capacious enamelled vessel--the powdered and colored ingredients1 add the thymol dissolved in the mixture of the volatile oils1 arnica tincture and glycerin1 rub and uniformly mix the whole with the hands1 so that no specks of coloring matter and perfume are perceptible1 and then again pass through a fine sieve4 ,tooth powder is best kept in well closed tin boxes2 boxes of wood or paste-board are not suitable for the purpose1 the powder1 when kept in them1 losing in quality4 ,the above explanations refer to all the following tooth powders3-- ,poudre dentifrice4--,precipitated carbonate of calcium #b lbs41 carbonate of magnesium #a lb41 sugar of milk #a lbs41 fine soap-powder #e ozs41 alizarin1 as coloring matter1 #e ozs41 peppermint oil #b ozs41 clove oil #e drachms1 ,ceylon cinnamon oil #b drachms1 rose-geranium oil #e drachms1 vanilla tincture #a ozs4 ,proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder4 ,violet tooth-powder4--,orris-root powder #c lbs41 carbonate of magnesium #a lb41 sugar of milk #a lbs41 best soap-powder #e ozs41 ,portugal oil and peppermint oil each #a oz41 ratany tincture #c ozs4 ,proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder4 ,dr4 ,hufeland's tooth-powder4--,pulverized sanders wood1 ,peruvian bark1 and precipitated carbonate of calcium each #b lbs41 best soap-powder #g ozs41 bergamot oil and ,portugal oil each #aa drachms1 clove oil and cassia oil each #ad drachms1 myrrh tincture #a ozs4 ,proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder4 ,white tooth-powder4--,carbonate of magnesium1 precipitated carbonate of calcium1 and prepared chalk each #a lb41 soap-powder #c ozs41 peppermint oil #a oz41 clove oil #e drachms4 ,proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder4 ,black tooth-powder4--,finely pulverized linden charcoal #b lbs41 precipitated carbonate of calcium #a lb41 best soap-powder #c ozs41 peppermint oil #a ozs41 clove oil #h drachms1 guaiacum tincture #c ozs4 ,proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder4 ,poudre de corail4--,carbonate of magnesium #a lb41 sugar of milk #g ozs41 prepared chalk #a lb41 best soap-powder #g ozs41 alizarin #c ozs41 peppermint oil #a ozs41 clove oil #e drachms1 cassia oil #b drachms4 ,proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder4 ,camphor tooth-powder4--,prepared chalk and precipitated carbonate of calcium each #a lb41 best soap-powder #b ozs41 peppermint oil #e drachms1 camphor #a oz4 dissolved in the necessary quantity of alcohol of best quality4 ,thoroughly mix all the ingredients and pass the mixture through a fine sieve4 ,this tooth-powder should be used only every #e or #f days2 when too frequently used it affects the nerves4 ,opiat liquide pour les dents4--,genuine honey #a lbs41 sugar syrup #b ozs41 best wheat flour #g ozs41 round-lake #b ozs41 peppermint oil and clove oil each #aa drachms4 ,convert the round-lake into a fine powder and pass it through a fine sieve into a capacious porcelain dish4 ,then intimately mix it with the wheat flour1 gradually add the honey and syrup1 and after thoroughly working the mass for about hour1 add the volatile oil4 ,now work the whole thoroughly with the pestle1 then cover the dish1 and after allowing it to stand quietly for about #cf hours1 bring the mass into boxes of glass or tin provided with screw-tops4 ,poudre d' ,algrine4--,cream of tartar and pulverized red coral each #b lbs41 pulverized burnt alum #a lb41 pulverized sugar of milk #b lbs41 cochineal as coloring matter #c ozs4 ,the pulverized ingredients are brought into an enamelled vessel having a capacity of #ab quarts and thoroughly mixed1 so that the cochineal is uniformly distributed in the mass4 ,now have ready about #c quarts of nearly boiling water and a thoroughly cleansed soap-stirrer or similar instrument4 ,when everything is prepared1 quickly pour the hot water upon the powder in the enamelled vessel and stir rapidly and thoroughly during the effervescence which immediately takes place4 ,the effervescence gradually ceases and the result will be a beautiful crimson colored mass1 the hot water having immediately and completely dissolved the coloring matter of the cochineal4 ,now1 bring the mass into a shallow box lined with clean white paper and place it to dry in an airy room1 but do not expose it to the air or sunlight4 ,the next day the mass in the box is thoroughly worked through1 this operation being repeated every day until the mass is dry4 ,it is then again powdered1 whereby it acquires a rose color1 and is then sifted4 ,the powder is perfumed with peppermint oil #a oz4 and clove oil and cassia oil each #e ozs41 sufficient glycerin to prevent dust1 being at the same time rubbed in4 ,with the addition of the glycerin the beautiful crimson color of the powder reappears4 ,this tooth-powder possesses excellent cleansing qualities and can be recommended chiefly to persons having yellow teeth1 as well as to smokers whose teeth commence to get black4 ,dr4 ,hufeland's tooth soap4--,best quality of tallow melted without acid #ad lbs41 soda lye of #ch ,b4 #f lbs41 potash lye of #bj ,b4 #a lb4 ,further1 yellow ochre #a lb41 umber #d ozs41 and precipitated carbonate of calcium #c lbs41 stirred together with hot water #b quarts4 ,peppermint oil #e ozs41 clove oil #ad drachms4 ,the kettle with the tallow strained through a cloth is brought upon the water-bath and the tallow heated to #afg ,f4 ,the lye heated to about #ajj ,f4 is then slowly added to the tallow in the kettle1 and1 after stirring for about hour1 the mass is allowed to rest quietly1 the kettle being lightly covered and only a little steam admitted or fire kept under the kettle1 so that saponification does not take place too rapidly4 ,saponification will be slowly effected from the sides of the kettle in about one hour1 the mass in the kettle rising somewhat4 ,this rising indicates that the process of saponification is going on4 ,the mass is now again stirred1 which must be done carefully and not hastily1 as otherwise the soap readily becomes spumous4 ,when the soap again lies quietly in the kettle1 it will have the appearance of a white prime grain-soap4 ,now add the coloring substances and the precipitated carbonate of calcium and thoroughly stir1 so that the mass acquires a uniform brown color4 ,then remove the kettle from the water-bath1 add the perfumes with constant stirring1 bring the finished tooth soap into the frame1 lightly cover the latter with the wooden lid and let stand over night4 ,the next day the tooth soap may be cut up into suitable pieces1 which are allowed to dry for about #ab hours and then packed in tinfoil1 etc4 ,tooth-soap4--,castile soap #a lb41 prepared chalk #a oz41 thymol #bj grains1 oil of wintergreen #cj drops4 ,shave the soap into ribbons1 beat it into a paste with a little water1 and add first the prepared chalk and lastly the thymol and wintergreen oil dissolved in a little water4 ,saponaceous tooth-wash4--,white ,castile soap #c ozs41 oil of orange peel #aj drops1 oil of cinnamon #e drops1 water #d ozs41 alcohol #ab ozs4 ,shave the soap into ribbons2 melt with the water in a water-bath1 adding the alcohol while still warm4 ,continue the heat if necessary1 until solution is effected4 ,when cold1 dissolve the oils in the liquid4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,hair ,,pomades1 ,,hair ,,oils1 ,,and ,,hair ,,tonics2 ,,hair ,,dyes ,,and ,,depilatories4 ,to properly preserve the hair it requires to be occasionally oiled1 and the scalp to be frequently cleansed4 ,pomades and oils serve for the former purpose1 and hair tonics for the latter4 ,for the preparation of pomades1 fats1 such as lard1 beef-tallow1 and beef-marrow1 are principally used1 though cocoa butter1 cocoanut oil1 castor oil1 almond oil1 spermaceti1 and wax1 and1 more recently1 vaseline are also employed4 ,for the preparation of hair oils1 fat oils1 especially olive oil and almond oil are used1 but also poppy oil1 peanut oil1 sesame oil1 etc4 ,the fats and oils used should not be rancid1 for1 on the one hand1 the bad odor arising from rancidity is troublesome in perfuming1 and1 on the other1 what is of still greater importance1 rancid fat injuriously affects the scalp and the growth of the hair4 ,of the oils above mentioned1 which are sometimes used1 poppy oil is a drying oil1 and1 therefore1 not suitable for the purpose4 ,some fats enjoy a special reputation as hair pomades1 the property of strengthening the scalp and promoting the growth of the hair being ascribed to them4 ,this is especially the case as regards beef marrow and horse fat1#bb whilst in olden times the bone marrow of the deer 7cerval medull7 and bear's grease were believed to possess this property4 ,cleopatra is said to have used the latter1 and many ladies are at the present time under the impression that they apply it to their hair when they use ,pommade la graisse d'ours4 ,thoroughly purified lard renders no doubt the same service as the above-mentioned fats4 #bb ,genuine horse fat is obtained from the upper portion of the neck of the horse4 ,,pomades4 ,pomades are prepared by two different methods2 the desired odor is imparted to the fat by the extraction of the flowers of various plants1 or the fat in a semi-congealed state is perfumed with different volatile oils4 ,the fats used for pomades should1 as above indicated1 be as fresh and pure as possible1 so that they will keep for a long time4 ,fats intended for fine pomades1 for which lard and beef-tallow are chiefly used1 are generally first subjected to purification by1 for some time1 treating them with cold water1 constantly renewed1 and thoroughly washing1 so that all adhering particles of dirt and mucus are removed1 and the pomades prepared from them are better protected against rancidity4 ,for the removal of the water adhering from washing1 the fats are remelted4 ,still greater durability is imparted to the fat by adding in remelting a small quantity of salicylic acid 7#b drachms of the acid to #b lbs4 of fat71 or of gum benzoin4 ,a small addition of ethyl nitrite also renders the fats more durable4 ,the purification of the fat1 which generally consists of #b to #c parts lard and #a part beef-tallow1 is frequently effected as follows3 ,boil for about one hour #abe lbs4 of fat with about #cj gallons of water containing #a lb4 each of common salt and alum in solution1 constantly removing the scum formed4 ,after standing for several hours1 the fat thus purified is carefully taken off from the sediment and water2 it is then1 together with #d to #f lbs4 of pulverized benzoin1 for some time heated at #afg ,f41 and finally strained into stone jars1 which1 after the fat is cold1 are closed with a piece of bladder or waxed paper and kept for use4 ,fat thus prepared keeps for years4 ,for coloring the pomades are used3 #a4 ,for red3 ,alkannin1 cinnabar1 carmine 7triturated with a small quantity of sal ammoniac and added to the fat7 and safranin 7#a part of it dissolved in #bj parts alcohol and #hj parts water and added to the melted fat74 #b4 ,for yellow3 ,annotto1 turmeric1 cadmium sulphide4 #c4 ,for brown3 ,cocoa powder and ochre4 #d4 ,for green3 ,chlorophyl4 ,besides the above-mentioned coloring substances1 a very intense coloring matter for pomades is brought into commerce under the name ,lederin by ,saltzer ,voigt1 of ,oker1 ,germany4 ,it is manufactured in lemon color1 orange1 cinnabar1 violet1 and brown shades1 and #aj to #ab drachms of it1 triturated in a porcelain dish with about #a lb4 of the warm fat1 will impart a truly beautiful color to #ajj lbs4 of fat or oil4 ,fine ,french ,pomades 7,flower ,pomades74--,in ,france1 especially in the southern part1 where the cultivation of the various flowers1 such as roses1 violets1 mignonette1 hliotrope1 etc41 is carried on on an extensive scale1 the fine pomades are prepared by the method previously mentioned 7see p4 #eh et seq474 ,the maceration or extraction of the flowers is effected as follows3 ,the fat1 generally consisting of #c parts lard and #a part beef-tallow1 is melted in an enamelled vessel over the steam or water-bath4 ,the flowers in a clean linen bag are suspended in the fat1 and after covering the vessel the fat is kept1 according to the strength of the perfume of the respective variety of flower1 for a day or two more at a temperature of from #acc to #ade ,f4 ,the extracted and exhausted flowers are then taken out1 slightly pressed out1 and thrown away4 ,the same operation with always the same quantities of fresh flowers is then repeated ten to twelve times with the same fat1 until it is sufficiently perfumed4 ,the pomade thus obtained1 to which some white vaseline is frequently added1 is then stirred until cold4 ,receipts for some flower pomades are here given3-- ,pommade la rose4--,extract1 in the manner above given1 with #f lbs4 of lard and #b lbs4 of beef-tallow1 both thoroughly purified1 #h lbs4 of fresh rose leaves4 ,treat the fat ten to twelve times in the same manner with an equal quantity of fresh rose leaves4 ,pommade l'acacia4--,extract #f lbs4 of fresh acacia flowers with #bj lbs4 of fat1 and repeat the operation ten times with a like quantity of fresh flowers4 ,pommade la fleur d'orange4--,extract #h lbs4 of fresh orange flowers with #h lbs4 of fat1 and repeat the operation eight times with a like quantity of fresh flowers4 ,pommade l'hliotrope4--,extract #h lbs4 of fresh hliotrope flowers with #h lbs4 of fat1 and repeat the operation eight to ten times with an equal quantity of fresh flowers4 ,all simple ,french pomades1 for which flowers furnish the perfume1 are prepared in a similar manner4 ,for pomades are chiefly used the flowers of the geranium1 jasmine1 mignonette1 hyacinth1 tuberose1 narcissus1 lily1 etc41 the pomades as a rule receiving the name of the perfume imparted to them4 ,,pomades ,,according ,,to ,,the ,,german ,,method4 ,most of the pomades consumed in ,germany are prepared from fresh1 purified lard and beef-tallow1 though sometimes additions of wax1 spermaceti1 stearin1 castor-oil1 cocoanut oil1 etc41 are made1 or the pomade is entirely composed of the latter fats4 ,for inferior qualities of pomades1 borax is much used1 since it not only possesses the property of combining a quantity of water with the fat1 but also makes the pomade more durable4 ,soap dissolved in hot water is also often added to the fat1 whereby not only considerable water is fixed in the pomade1 but the latter also becomes very white and pliant4 ,in regard to pomades containing borax1 it may be mentioned that safranin has proved a durable substance for coloring the pomades red1 while alkannin suffers alterations4 ,the fabrication of pomades is very simple4 ,the fat1 after being melted1 and somewhat cooled off1 is generally vigorously worked or beaten with a wooden pestle or spatula1 until it acquires a frothy1 cream-like appearance4 ,by this treatment the fat also gains in volume1 small air bubbles being inclosed in it4 ,on the other hand1 the fat is stirred until cold1 then perfumed and poured into pots4 ,the following mixtures of fat may serve as suitable foundations for white pomades3-- ,i4 ,lard #f lbs41 beef-tallow #b lbs4 ,,ii4 ,lard #f lbs41 beef-tallow #c lbs4 ,,iii4 ,lard #g lbs41 spermaceti #a lbs4 ,,iv4 ,castor oil #f lbs41 vaseline #a lbs41 wax #a lb4 ,v4 ,lard #h lbs41 cocoanut oil #b lbs4 ,,vi4 ,castor oil #f lbs41 spermaceti #a lb4 ,,vii4 ,lard #f lbs41 cocoanut oil #c lbs4 ,,viii4 ,lard #h lbs41 wax #a lb41 cocoa butter #a lb4 ,,ix4 ,pomade fat #ab lbs41 soap #d ozs41 dissolved in hot water1 borax drachm4 ,this mass will stand about water4 ,x4 ,in summer3 ,fat #f lbs41 stearin #g ozs4 ,in winter3 ,fat #f lbs41 stearin #d ozs4 ,to either mass given under ,x1 add and combine thoroughly with it #ad drachms of borax dissolved in #a quart of water4 ,the pomades1 while still warm1 are colored and finally perfumed4 ,for perfuming1 different volatile oils and perfume substances of suitable composition are used1 #a to #a ozs4 of perfume being generally sufficient for #b lbs4 of fat4 ,receipts for the best known and most popular pomades are as follows3-- ,apple pomade4--,digest for some time in the water bath #b lbs4 of fresh apple parings with #f lbs4 of lard and #b lbs4 of beef-tallow1 press1 color yellow1 stir until cold1 and perfume with #a oz4 amyl valerate1 commonly called apple oil4 ,bear's grease pomade4--,perfume purified bear's grease #h lbs41 or benzoated lard #f lbs4 and beef-tallow #b lbs41 with rose-geranium oil #b ozs4 and vanilla tincture #b ozs4 ,quinine pomade ,no4 #a4--;,fresh lard #f lbs41 fresh beef-tallow #b lbs41 quinotannic acid #ac ozs41 tincture of cantharides and distilled water each #h ozs41 ,peru balsam #d ozs41 rose-geranium oil #h drachms4 ,quinine pomade ,no4 #b4--,vaseline #d lbs41 paraffin #b lbs41 fat jasmine oil #a lb41 ,peruvian bark extract lb41 tannin #e ozs41 ,peru balsam #c ozs41 rose-geranium oil #aa drachms4 ,melt together the vaseline and paraffin1 add the ,peruvian bark extract previously rubbed up with as little water as possible1 and stir in the tannin dissolved in the volatile oils4 ,quinine pomade 7imitation7 ,no4 #a4--;,benzoated lard #f lbs41 beef-tallow #b lbs41 colored with prepared cocoa powder about #ad ozs41 and perfumed with ,peruvian balsam #b ozs41 bergamot oil1 citronella oil1 and eau de ,cologne each #e drachms1 and oils of cloves1 lavender1 and cinnamon each #dj drops4 ,quinine pomade 7imitation7 ,no4 #b4--,lard #f lbs41 beef-tallow #b lbs41 cocoa powder #ae ozs41 ,peru balsam #b ozs41 cassia oil #a ozs41 clove oil #b drachms1 oil of bitter almonds #aj drops4 ,benzoin pomade4--,digest for several hours in a water bath at #afg ,f4 #f lbs4 of lard1 #b lbs4 of beef-tallow1 and #a lbs4 of pulverized benzoin1 and strain off the fat4 ,densdorf pomade4--,castor oil #f lbs41 vaseline #a lbs41 yellow wax #a lb41 bergamot oil #b ozs41 lemon oil #a ozs41 geranium oil #d drachms4 ,ice pomade ,no4 #a4--;,best olive oil #f lbs41 white vaseline and spermaceti each #a lbs41 bergamot oil #c ozs41 bitter almond oil #aa drachms1 rose-geranium oil #h drachms1 cinnamon oil #e drachms4 ,ice pomade ,no4 #b4--;,fat almond oil #f lbs41 spermaceti #a lbs41 bergamot oil #a ozs41 citronella oil #ad drachms1 palma rose oil #b drachms4 ,family pomade 7red74--,fresh lard #f lbs41 beef-tallow #c lbs41 bergamot oil #a ozs41 oils of lemon1 lavender1 and cinnamon each #ad drachms4 ,color with alkannin4 ,family pomade 7white74--,fresh lard #f lbs41 beef-tallow #c lbs41 lemon oil #b ozs41 sweet orange oil #a ozs41 bergamot oil #a oz4 ,family pomade 7rose color74--,fresh lard #f lbs41 beef-tallow #c lbs41 palma-rose oil1 citronella oil1 and lavender oil each #a ozs4 ,color with alkannin4 ,family pomade 7yellow74--,fresh lard #f lbs41 beef-tallow #c lbs41 bergamot oil #a ozs41 cassia oil #ad drachms1 clove oil #h drachms1 thyme oil #e drachms4 ,color with lederin or annotto4 ,family pomade 7brown74--,fresh lard #f lbs41 beef-tallow #c lbs41 cassia oil #a ozs41 caraway oil #a oz41 sweet orange oil and clove oil each #aa drachms4 ,color brown with cocoa powder1 lederin1 or umber4 ,strawberry pomade4--,fresh ripe strawberries #a lbs41 fresh lard1 #f lbs41 fresh beef-tallow #b lbs41 rose oil #e drops4 ,put the strawberries in a clean linen bag1 and digest them for some time with the fat in the water-bath4 ,then moderately press the strawberries1 color with alkannin1 and finally perfume4 ,fine hair pomade4--,fresh lard #h lbs41 cocoanut oil and wax each #a lb41 bergamot oil #c ozs41 lemon oil #a ozs41 geranium oil #e drachms1 musk tincture #a drachm4#bc #bc ,a pomade containing musk cannot be used by everyone1 since in nervous persons it may readily cause headache4 ,pomade for promoting the growth of the hair4--,lard #f lbs41 beef-tallow #b lbs41 tincture of cantharides #aj ozs41 lemon oil #b ozs41 bergamot oil #b ozs41 cinnamon oil #a drachms4 ,heliotrope pomade1 finest quality4--,lard treated with benzoin #f lbs41 beef tallow treated with benzoin #b lbs41 heliotropin #c drachms1 dissolved in a small quantity of the fat heated to about #aaa ,f42 neroli oil #ce drops4 ,heliotrope pomade4--,fresh lard #f lbs41 fresh beef tallow #b lbs41 ,peru balsam #b ozs41 cassia oil #a ozs41 clove oil #h drachms1 artificial bitter-almond oil #a drachms4 ,jasmine pomade4--,benzoated lard #f lbs41 benzoated beef tallow #b lbs41 fat jasmine oil #b lbs41 rose oil #be drops4 ,emperor pomade4--,melt together #g lbs4 of fresh olive oil1 #b lbs4 of castor oil1 and #b lbs4 of spermaceti4 ,perfume with fat jasmine oil #g ozs41 ,turkish rose oil and bergamot oil each #b drachms1 neroli oil #ej drops1 geranium oil #bj drops1 orris-root oil #aj drops1 heliotropin drachm1 and cumarin #a_/aj drachm4 ,dissolve the heliotropin and cumarin in a portion of the fat heated to #aaa ,f41 add the solution1 together with the other perfume-materials1 to the fat before it congeals1 then pour the pomade into jars and allow it to cool slowly4 ,macassar pomade4--,castor oil #f lbs41 vaseline #a lbs41 wax #a lb41 bergamot oil #b ozs41 cassia oil and cinnamon oil each #a oz41 rose-geranium oil #b drachms4 ,portugal pomade4--,fresh lard #d lbs41 white vaseline #a lb41 wax #c ozs41 ,portugal oil #b ozs41 bergamot oil #a ozs41 caraway oil #b drachms4 ,herb pomade4--,melt together fresh lard #h lbs41 ,japanese wax and bayberry oil each #c ozs41 improve the color with chlorophyl1 and perfume with lemon oil #ad drachms1 bergamot oil #aa drachms1 clove oil #e drachms1 geranium oil #c drachms1 and a few drops of curly mint oil4 ,lanolin pomade4--,benzoated fat #d lbs41 benzoinized olive oil and lanolin each #b lbs41 bergamot oil #c ozs41 cinnamon oil #g drachms1 clove oil #e drachms1 lavender oil #c drachms1 nerolin #a drachm dissolved in a portion of the fat heated to #aaa ,f4 ,color red with alkannin4 ,oriental pomade4--,benzoated lard #f lbs41 benzoated beef-tallow #b lbs41 bergamot oil #b ozs41 clove oil #a ozs41 neroli oil #e drachms1 musk tincture drachm4 ,color red with lederin4 ,paraffin ice pomade4--,castor oil or olive oil #f lbs41 paraffin #a lb41 bergamot oil #c ozs41 palma rose oil #aa drachms4 ,neroli pomade4--,benzoated lard #f lbs41 benzoated beef-tallow #b lbs41 fat jasmine oil and fat rose oil each #a ozs41 oil of bitter almonds #b drops1 nerolin #a drachms dissolved in a small portion of the fat heated to #aaa ,f4 ,color pale yellow4 ,cheap pomade 7red1 yellow1 white74--,lard #e lbs41 beef-tallow or cocoanut oil #b lbs41 perfumed with about #c ozs4 of fruit ether4 ,mignonette pomade4--,benzoated lard #d lbs41 benzoated beef-tallow and fat mignonette oil each #b lbs41 tolu-balsam tincture #d ozs4 ,color pale green with chlorophyl4 ,castor oil pomade ,no4 #a4--,melt together #d lbs4 of castor oil and #aa ozs4 of spermaceti and perfume with bergamot oil #b ozs41 and geranium oil #f drachms4 ,castor oil pomade ,no4 #b4--;,castor oil and fine olive oil each #b lbs41 yellow wax #g ozs41 bergamot oil and sweet orange oil each #ad drachms1 clove oil #h drachms1 neroli oil #b drachms4 ,princess pomade4--,fresh lard #h lbs41 cocoa butter and wax each #a lb41 bergamot oil #c ozs41 lemon oil and lavender oil each #ad drachms1 neroli oil #f drachms4 ,color rose color with alkannin4 ,fine pomade4--,benzoated lard #f lbs41 benzoated beef-tallow #b lbs41 lemon oil #b ozs41 sweet orange oil #a ozs41 bergamot oil #a oz4 ,color yellow with annotto4 ,beef-marrow pomade4--,melt together #d lbs4 of lard and #a lb4 of beef-marrow1 or1 #d lbs of lard1 #ad ozs4 of spermaceti1 and #a ozs4 of yellow wax1 color yellow and perfume with lemon oil #ad drachms1 bergamot oil #f drachms1 and a few drops of clove oil4 ,rogers's pomade for producing a beard4--,lard #g lbs41 yellow wax lb41 fine cantharides powder #aj ozs41 bergamot oil #a ozs41 oils of lemon1 cinnamon and lavender each #aa drachms4 ,rose pomade4--,fresh lard #f lbs41 fresh beef-tallow #b lbs41 palma rosa oil #b ozs41 citronella oil #aa drachms1 alkannin for coloring #a to #a ozs4 ,fine rose pomade4--,fresh lard #b lbs41 spermaceti and fat almond oil1 each #c ozs41 rose geranium oil #a ozs41 bitter almond oil #a ozs4 ,finest rose pomade4--,fat rose oil #b lbs41 spermaceti #g ozs41 white wax #c ozs41 rose-geranium oil #a ozs41 rose oil and bergamot oil1 each drachm4 ,color red with alkannin4 ,salicylic pomade4--,fresh lard #g lbs41 white wax #a lb41 fat jasmine oil #a lbs4 ,peru balsam #e ozs41 salicylic acid #b ozs41 dissolved in alcohol #d ozs4 ,victoria pomade4--,melt together #c lbs4 of fat almond oil and #aj ozs4 of white wax1 and perfume the mixture1 when quite cooled off1 with fat jasmine oil lb41 rose oil and geranium oil each #a drachm4 ,color rose color with alkannin4 ,tonka pomade4--,lard #g lbs41 spermaceti lb41 cumarin #d drachms1 dissolved in a small portion of the warm fat4 ,fine vanilla pomade4--,benzoated lard #f lbs41 beef-tallow #b lbs41 vanilla #b drachms1 dissolved in a small portion of the warm fat4 ,vanilla pomade4--,lard and vaseline each #b lbs41 wax #c ozs41 ,peruvian balsam #a ozs41 bitter-almond oil drachm1 cinnamon oil #bj drops4 ,violet pomade4--,lard #d lbs41 vaseline #b lbs41 wax #e ozs41 spermaceti #a ozs41 fat orris-root oil #b lbs41 bergamot oil #c drachms1 clove oil #b drachms1 cinnamon oil drachm1 rose oil drachm4 ,walnut pomade4--,work in a mortar to a uniform paste lb4 of fresh green walnut-shells and #b ozs4 of alum4 ,digest the paste with #b lbs4 of benzoinized lard and tallow in the water-bath until the fat appears clear4 ,then strain off the fat1 stir until cold1 and perfume with #a drachms of neroli oil and drachm of rose oil4 ,,vaseline ,,pomades4--,vaseline pomades consisting neither of an animal nor of a vegetable fat1 but almost entirely of a mineral fat1 form a special division of pomades4 ,on account of its good properties and cheapness1 vaseline1 which is obtained from petroleum residues1 etc41 has for several years past been much used in the preparation of pomades4 ,the pomades prepared from vaseline are not only very suitable for oiling the hair1 as they never become rancid1 but may also advantageously be used as a remedy for chapped skin1 inflammation1 cuts1 burns1 etc4 ,for pomades odorless vaseline has to be used1 #a lb4 of it requiring about #e to #h drachms of perfume4 ,lederin1 which has been previously mentioned1 is best suited for coloring the pomades4 ,when used for pomades vaseline1 though by itself sufficient for the purpose1 frequently receives an addition of paraffin1 wax 7mostly ceresin71 and lard4 ,to vaseline pomades intended for export to warm climates1 an addition of to ceresin is required4 ,the following mixtures give good foundations for vaseline pomade3-- ,i4 ,yellow or white vaseline #b parts1 paraffin #a4 ,,ii4 ,vaseline #e parts1 paraffin or ceresin #a4 ,,iii4 ,vaseline #c parts1 ceresin #a4 ,,iv4 ,vaseline and lard each #aj parts1 ceresin #a4 ,the pomades are prepared by first melting the paraffin or ceresin and then slowly stirring in the vaseline4 ,when the fat commences to thicken1 the perfume is added and the pomade poured into jars or tin boxes4 ,a few good receipts for vaseline pomades are here given4 ,bouquet vaseline pomade4--,white vaseline and fresh lard each #b lbs41 ceresin #c ozs41 bergamot oil #a ozs41 lavender oil #f drachms1 cinnamon oil #e drachms1 neroli oil #c drachms1 geranium oil #b drachms4 ,family vaseline pomade4--,pale yellow vaseline #aj lbs41 oils of bergamot and lemons each #a oz41 citronella oil #ab drachms1 cassia oil #h drachms1 lavender oil #d drachms1 clove oil #c drachms2 or1 bergamot oil #b ozs41 palma-rose oil #a ozs41 lavender oil #e drachms4 ,lily of the valley vaseline pomade4--,white vaseline and fresh lard each #b lbs41 ceresin #c ozs41 bergamot oil #a oz41 ylang-ylang oil #b drachms1 licari oil drachm4 ,neroli vaseline pomade4--,vaseline #aj lbs41 ceresin #b lbs41 geranium oil #a oz41 nerolin #c drachms1 dissolved in a small portion of the warm fat4 ,mignonette vaseline pomade4--,white vaseline #b lbs41 paraffin #a lb41 bergamot oil #i drachms1 neroli oil #e drachms1 artificial bitter almond oil #ae drops4 ,portugal vaseline pomade4--,pale yellow vaseline #aj lbs41 ceresin #c ozs41 ,portugal oil #b ozs41 cassia oil #a oz41 lavender oil #e drachms4 ,rose vaseline pomade1 ,no4 #a4--,vaseline #f lbs41 ceresin #c ozs41 rose-geranium oil #a ozs41 nerolin drachm4 ,colored with lederin4 ,rose vaseline pomade1 ,no4 #b4--,vaseline and lard each #b lbs41 ceresin #g ozs41 geranium oil #a ozs41 bergamot oil #e drachms1 musk tincture drachm4 ,color red with alkannin4 ,fine vaseline pomade 7yellow74--,yellow vaseline and castor oil each #b lbs41 yellow wax #g ozs41 lemon oil #a oz41 bergamot oil #f drachms1 nerolin drachm4 ,vaseline pomade 7red74--,white vaseline #d lbs41 paraffin or ceresin #ad ozs41 palma-rose oil1 citronella oil and lavender oil each #aa drachms4 ,color red with lederin or alkannin4 ,vaseline pomade 7white74--,white vaseline #d lbs41 paraffin #ad ozs41 bergamot oil #a ozs41 cassia oil #b drachms1 thyme oil #a drachms4 ,virginia vaseline pomade4--,digest for some time in the water-bath #b lbs4 of white vaseline1 #b ozs4 each of yellow wax and pulverized benzoin1 and #aa drachms of ,peru balsam4 ,then filter and perfume with bergamot oil #ad drachms1 citronella oil #a drachms4 ,this pomade serves not only for preserving the scalp1 but is also a good remedy for tetter1 cutaneous eruptions1 etc4 ,victoria vaseline pomade4--,white vaseline #e lbs41 paraffin #a lb41 bergamot oil #a ozs41 rose-geranium oil #a oz41 lavender #h drachms4 ,color red with alkannin or lederin4 ,extra fine vaseline pomade4--,white vaseline #d lbs41 ceresin #aj ozs41 bergamot oil #a ozs41 lemon oil #i drachms1 palmarosa oil #b drachms4 ,stick pomades4--,besides the soft1 unctuous pomades thus far treated of1 we have a solid product--the so-called stick-pomades4 ,these pomades1 which serve for the better fastening of the hair1 are brought into commerce either as wax pomades or resin pomades1 the former being prepared from a mixture of lard1 tallow1 and wax1 and the latter from tallow1 wax1 and resin1 to which some ,venetian turpentine may be added4 ,the following mixtures give good foundations for stick pomades3-- ,i4 ,french flower pomade #d parts1 white wax #a4 ,,ii4 ,fresh beef tallow #c parts1 fresh lard #a1 wax #a4 ,,iii4 ,best beef tallow #e parts1 yellow wax #a4 ,,iv4 ,tallow #aj parts1 wax #b1 resin #a1 ,venetian turpentine 4 ,v4 ,tallow #h parts1 resin 1 ceresin 4 ,,vi4 ,tallow #d parts1 pale resin #a1 yellow wax 4 ,,vii4 ,tallow #aj parts1 wax #b1 pale resin #a4 ,,viii4 ,olive oil #b parts1 pure stearin #a1 yellow wax #a4 ,,ix4 ,tallow #i parts1 ceresin 4 ,x4 ,best beef-tallow #aj parts1 yellow wax #a4 ,the usual process of manufacturing stick-pomade is as follows3 ,melt the fat1 wax and resin in the water-bath1 then strain the mixture and cool it off by constant stirring until a thin film is formed upon the surface4 ,then perfume and pour into tin moulds of oval1 round or square form and of various sizes4 ,a dozen of such tin moulds of the same size are generally soldered together and are provided below either with a hinged piece1 or they are open4 ,in the latter case they are placed upon a tin support with a high edge which serves for the reception for the fat escaping from any of the moulds4 ,the cold pomades are pushed out by means of sticks of wood fitting exactly into the moulds4 ,they are then wrapped in tinfoil1 labelled and brought into commerce4 ,stick-pomades are either white1 rose color1 yellow1 brown or black2 alkannin1 lederin1 umber1 ,frankfort black1 etc41 being used as coloring substances4 ,in the following some receipts for wax and resin pomades are given3-- ,rose-wax pomade4--,best tallow #f lbs41 best lard #b lbs41 white-wax #c lbs41 colored with alkannin4 ,perfume3 ,lemon oil #a oz41 lavender oil #ad drachms1 geranium oil #aa drachms1 clove oil #f drachms2 or1 bergamot oil #a oz41 oils of geranium1 cassia and ,portugal1 each #aj drachms1 clove oil #c drachms4 ,black-wax pomade4--,best tallow #aj lbs41 yellow wax #a lbs41 colored with ,frankfort black4 ,perfume3 ,bergamot oil #c ozs41 cassia oil #ac drachms2 or1 bergamot oil #c ozs41 citronella oil #f drachms4 ,blonde wax pomade4--,best tallow #f lbs41 best lard #b lbs41 white or yellow wax #c lbs4 ,perfume3 ,clove oil #a ozs41 lemon oil1 bergamot oil and ,peru balsam each #ad drachms2 or1 bergamot oil #b ozs41 cassia oil #e drachms1 thyme oil #b drachms4 ,brown wax pomade4--,best tallow #aj lbs41 yellow wax #b lbs41 colored with umber4 ,perfume3 ,citronella oil #b ozs41 clove oil #ab drachms1 bergamot oil #h drachms1 anise-seed oil #f drachms2 or1 bergamot oil #b ozs41 cassia oil #a ozs41 clove oil #e drachms4 ,cheap-wax pomade 7color as desired74--,best tallow #i lbs41 ceresin lb4 ,perfume3 ,lavender oil #a ozs41 cassia oil #a oz41 palma-rose oil #aa drachms2 or1 bergamot oil #a ozs41 palmarosa oil #a oz41 lavender oil oz4 ,resin pomade ,no4 #a4--;,best tallow #aj lbs41 yellow wax #b lbs41 pale resin #a lb4 ,perfume3 ,bergamot oil #a ozs41 cassia oil #ad drachms1 lavender oil #aa drachms1 clove oil #h drachms1 thyme oil #e drachms4 ,resin pomade ,no4 #b4--;,best tallow #aj lbs41 yellow wax #b lbs41 pale resin #a lb41 ,venetian turpentine #d ozs4 ,perfume3 ,cassia oil #b ozs41 lavender oil #a oz41 lemon-grass oil #aa drachms1 clove oil and thyme oil each #e drachms4 ,cheap resin pomade4--,best tallow #h lbs41 pale resin and pale ceresin each #ac ozs4 ,perfume3 ,bergamot oil #c ozs41 cassia oil #i drachms1 thyme oil #e drachms2 or1 ,portugal oil #b ozs41 cassia oil #a oz41 lavender oil #e drachms4 ,,hair ,,oils4--,like pomades1 hair oils are perfumed either with volatile oils or by treatment with larger quantities of fresh flowers4 ,the oils obtained in the latter manner are known as ,huiles antiques1 and are the finest and most expensive4 ,vaseline oil1 which is cheap and does not become rancid1 is also at present much used as hair oil4 ,to make the fat oils used as hair oils more durable and to protect them from becoming rancid1 they are also treated with benzoin4 ,for this purpose digest for three hours1 with frequent stirring1 in the water-bath #ajj lbs4 of the oil with #a lb4 of pulverized benzoin4 ,with the exception of alkannin for red-colored oil and chlorophyl for herb oils1 no coloring substances are used for hair oils4 ,about #e to #h drachms of perfume are required for #a lb4 of oil4 ,the ,huiles antiques are obtained as follows3-- ,huile antique la rose4--,extract in the cold #a lb4 of fresh rose leaves with #a lb4 of best olive oil1 and with the oil pressed off1 extract1 six times in succession1 equal quantities of fresh leaves1 leaving the rose-leaves each time in contact with the oil for #aj to #ab hours4 ,the oil1 when sufficiently perfumed1 is filtered4 ,huile antique au jasmin4--,extract in the manner above given #a lb4 of fresh jasmin flowers with #a lb4 of olive oil4 ,in the same manner the perfume of the different flowers can be withdrawn and utilized4 ,a number of receipts for the most popular hair oils are here given4 ,alpine herb oil4--,color slightly with chlorophyl #aj lbs4 of best quality of olive oil and perfume with peppermint oil #b ozs41 lavender oil #a oz41 caraway oil #f drachms4 ,flower hair oil4--,color slightly with alkannin #aj lbs4 of benzoated olive oil of best quality1 and perfume with geranium oil #b ozs41 bergamot oil and lavender oil each #i drachms1 petit-grain oil #d drachms1 and angelica oil #e drops4 ,peruvian bark hair oil4--,extract for some time #a lb4 of pulverized ,peruvian bark with #aj lbs4 of strongly heated benzoinized olive oil4 ,then color the oil red with alkannin1 and when cold1 perfume with bergamot oil #a ozs41 lemon oil #ad drachms1 rose-geranium oil #b drachms1 neroli oil drachm1 and cinnamon oil #e drops2 or1 with bergamot oil #b ozs41 lemon oil #a oz41 geranium oil #c drachms4 ,peru hair oil4--,benzoated olive oil #aj lbs41 ,peru balsam #c ozs41 cassia oil #aa drachms4 ,burdock root hair oil ,no4 #a4--;,digest at a moderate heat #h lbs4 of olive oil or sesame oil with #b lbs4 of fresh burdock roots2 then pour off the oil from the roots1 add #g ozs4 of castor oil1 color with alkannin1 and perfume with bergamot oil #b ozs4 and palma-rose oil #a oz4 ,burdock root hair oil ,no4 #b4--;,color #aj lbs4 of benzoated olive oil pale green with chlorophyl1 and perfume with bergamot oil #b ozs41 geranium oil #a ozs41 and lavender oil #aa drachms4 ,macassar hair oil ,no4 #a4--;,benzoated olive oil #aj lbs41 geranium oil and lemon oil each #a ozs41 cassia oil #ad drachms4 ,color red with alkannin4 ,macassar oil ,no4 #b4--;,benzoated olive oil #aj lbs41 colored with alkannin1 and perfumed with bergamot oil #a ozs41 lemon oil #a ozs41 cinnamon oil #a drachm1 musk essence #a drachm4 ,neroli hair oil4--,benzoated olive oil #aj lbs41 nerolin #e drachms dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil1 rose oil #aj drops4 ,mignonette hair oil ,no4 #a4--;,benzoated olive oil #aj lbs41 cassia oil #a ozs41 geranium oil and tolu-balsam tincture each #aa drachms1 nerolin #a drachm1 dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil4 ,mignonette hair oil ,no4 #b4--;,benzoated olive oil #d lbs41 fat mignonette oil #c lbs41 tolu-balsam tincture #c ozs4 ,fine hair oil4--,benzoated olive oil #aj lbs41 lemon oil #a ozs41 bergamot oil #ae drachms1 lavender oil #c drachms1 neroli oil #b drachms1 rosemary oil #a drachms1 petit-grain oil #a drachm4 ,cheap hair oil 7red or yellow74--,sesame oil or purified colza oil #aj lbs41 bergamot oil #b ozs41 citronella oil #a ozs41 mirbane oil #aj drachms2 or1 ,portugal oil #b ozs41 cassia oil #a oz41 lavender oil #e drachms4 ,portugal hair oil4--,benzoated olive oil #aj lbs41 ,portugal oil #b ozs41 bergamot oil #a ozs41 caraway oil #c drachms4 ,jasmine hair oil4--,benzoated olive oil #aj lbs41 fat jasmine oil #a lbs41 bergamot oil #a ozs41 clove oil #aa drachms1 rose-geranium oil #d drachms1 nerolin #a drachm1 dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil1 thyme oil drachm4 ,vaseline hair oil ,no4 #a4--,white vaseline oil #h lbs41 white olive oil #b lbs41 colored red with alkannin1 bergamot oil #a ozs41 lavender oil and lemon oil each #aa drachms1 neroli oil #e drachms4 ,vaseline hair oil ,no4 #b4--,yellow vaseline oil #h lbs41 olive oil #b lbs41 cassia oil #a ozs41 lemon-grass oil #a oz41 clove oil oz4 ,vanilla hair oil4--,benzoated olive oil #aj lbs41 vanillin1 dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil1 and ,peru balsam1 each #e drachms1 bergamot oil #a drachm1 musk tincture #aj drops4 ,ylang-ylang hair oil4--,benzoated olive oil #e lbs41 ylang-ylang oil #b drachms1 rose oil #a drachm1 neroli oil #aj drops4 ,philocome hair oil4--,melt together benzoated olive oil and yellow wax each #b lbs41 and when about half cold1 add fat orris-root oil and fat jasmine oil1 each #a lbs41 rose-geranium oil #a drachm1 and stir until cold4 ,sultana hair oil4--,benzoated olive oil #aj lbs41 colored red with alkannin1 bergamot oil #a ozs41 lavender oil #h drachms1 cinnamon oil #g drachms1 neroli oil #e drachms1 geranium oil #c drachms1 musk tincture #a drachm4 ,rose hair oil4--,benzoated olive oil #aj lbs41 colored pale red with alkannin1 geranium oil #b ozs41 bergamot oil #a oz41 cassia oil #ad drachms4 ,tonka hair oil4--,benzoated olive oil #aj lbs41 cumarin #aj drachms1 dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil4 ,violet hair oil4--,benzoated olive oil #aj lbs41 fat orris-root oil #c lbs41 bergamot oil #f drachms1 clove oil #c drachms1 cinnamon oil #a drachm1 rose oil drachm4 ,victoria hair oil4--,benzoated olive oil #aj lbs41 slightly colored with alkannin1 palma-rose oil1 lavender oil1 and citronella oil each #a oz41 musk tincture #a drachms4 ,cheap hair oil ,no4 #a4--,sunflower oil #ejj drachms1 bergamot oil #c1 rosemary oil #a1 lemon oil #a1 neroli and thyme oil each 4 ,cheap hair oil ,no4 #b4--,sunflower oil #ejj drachms1 lemon oil #b1 rosemary oil #c1 lavender oil #e1 geranium oil #a1 musk tincture 1 thyme oil #a4 ,,bandolines4--,bandolines are mucilaginous liquids1 and are prepared from substances forming mucilage1 such as gum-tragacanth1 gum-arabic1 ,japanese gelatine1 quince seeds1 flaxseed1 etc4 ,gum-arabic adhering very firmly1 its use1 however1 cannot be recommended4 ,the substances above mentioned are heated with water until the mucilaginous matter is extracted4 ,the latter is then strained through a cloth1 and the mucilaginous1 thick1 transparent liquid thus obtained perfumed4 ,volatile oils dissolving with difficulty in the liquid1 an ,extrait is generally used for perfuming1 or an aromatic water for dissolving the gums4 ,if the bandoline is to be colored1 an ammoniacal carmine solution is to be used4 ,aniline colors should not be employed for the purpose1 since they precipitate upon the scalp and hair1 even if only traces of them are present4 ,bandolines are not very durable2 their keeping properties may1 however1 be improved by the addition of benzoic or boric acid4 ,rose bandoline4--,gum-tragacanth #a lb41 rose water #g lbs4 ,bring the pulverized gum-tragacanth into a suitable earthenware or enamelled vessel1 pour the rose water over it1 and let it stand in a right warm place until by the swelling of the gum a thick mucilage is formed4 ,if the latter is to remain white1 it is first strained through a coarse linen cloth and then through a finer one2 if1 however1 the bandoline is to be rose color1 triturate in a mortar #a to #a drachms of best carmine with as little ammonia as possible1 and distribute this coloring matter in the mucilage4 ,for the reception of the bandoline jars with a sufficiently wide mouth for the index finger to reach to the bottom are best4 ,almond bandoline4--,allow #e lbs4 of rose water and #a ozs4 of quince seed to stand1 with frequent shaking1 for #bd hours4 ,then strain and perfume with #b drachms of bitter almond oil4 ,,brilliantine4--,brilliantine is very popular for giving lustre to the hair of the head and the beard1 and in fact1 if correctly prepared1 it has many advantages1 since1 owing to its composition1 it considerably decreases1 even if it does not entirely prevent1 the formation of the annoying dandruff4 ,flower brilliantine ,no4 #a4--;,chemically pure glycerin #a ozs41 alcoholic extract ,no4 #b from ,french-flower pomade ,no4 #bd #aj ozs41 ,french huile antique as much as required4 ,vigorously shake the glycerin and alcoholic pomade extract in a glass flask until a uniform fluid is formed1 which should be clear as water4 ,to give it1 however1 an oily appearance1 carefully mix with it a little sanders-wood tincture and turmeric tincture4 ,fill the brilliantine glasses half full with the above mixture and fill up the glasses with ,french huile antique of the same flower-perfume as the respective alcoholic flower-pomade extract1 but do not shake1 this being done only when used4 ,owing to the content of glycerin1 which1 as well known1 is non-volatile1 the consumption of this brilliantine is very economical1 while it is made very agreeable by the fine ,french flower perfumes4 ,if it is desired to prepare the brilliantine at less cost1 pure alcohol may be substituted for the pomade extract and any perfumed hair oil for the ,french huile antique4 ,brilliantine ,no4 #b4--;,for brilliantine of quality ,,ii1 the glasses are first filled half full with perfumed hair oil and then filled up with non-perfumed alcohol slightly colored with sanders-wood tincture or turmeric tincture4 ,glycerin is not used1 and1 hence1 in this case the oil will be on the bottom and the alcohol1 being lighter1 on top4 ,this brilliantine1 containing no glycerin1 is not so economical as the preceding4 ,it evaporates quite rapidly and sometimes makes the hair hard1 especially that of persons having naturally dry hair4 ,however1 this second quality is also quite popular and the perfumer must satisfy the demands of his customers as much as possible4 ,brilliantine ,no4 #c4--;,castor oil #aj lbs41 pure alcohol #e lbs41 ,portugal oil #g ozs41 clove oil #a ozs41 petit-grain oil #a oz41 cassia oil #a oz41 citronella oil #aa drachms4 ,mix the alcohol and castor oil in a glass-flask1 then add the volatile oils and shake vigorously4 ,if the castor oil is pure and genuine1 it forms an intimate mixture with the alcohol2 if1 on the other hand1 traces of oil appear on the surface of the fluid1 the castor oil is adulterated with other fat oils and unsuitable for this purpose4 ,the castor oil should also be as fresh as possible and1 under no conditions1 rancid4 ,if this brilliantine is desired of a somewhat yellowish color1 the object may be attained by the addition of sanders-wood tincture or turmeric tincture4 ,that this brilliantine is of an inferior quality is shown by its composition4 ,it has the further disadvantage that it plasters the hair1 especially when the castor oil becomes old4 ,however1 there are consumers with whom this quality is quite popular4 ,the following formulas for brilliantine are taken from various sources3-- ,i4 ,veal fat #d ozs41 spermaceti #b ozs41 castor oil #ab ozs41 oil of bitter almonds #a drop1 oil of cloves #aj drops1 oil of bergamot #bj drops4 ,melt together the first three ingredients1 and add the perfumes when nearly cold4 ,,ii4 ,almond oil #b lbs41 spermaceti lb41 oil of lemon #c ozs4 ,melt the spermaceti at a low temperature2 add the oil and heat until all flakes disappear4 ,let the jars into which it is to be poured be warm1 and then cool as slowly as possible to insure good crystals4 ,the following1 although somewhat peculiar1 is offered as a good brilliantine3-- ,,iii4 ,honey #a fluid oz41 glycerin and ,cologne water each fluid oz41 alcohol #b fluid ozs4 ,mix4 ,,hair ,,tonics4--,hair tonics serve for cleansing and invigorating the scalp and for preventing the hair from falling out4 ,glycerin having a beneficial effect upon the scalp is much used as one of the constituents4 ,the tonics also frequently contain ingredients said to promote the growth of the hair1 such as ,peruvian bark extract1 quinine1 tincture of cantharides1 and substances containing tannin4 ,hair tonics containing tincture of cantharides should1 however1 not be too frequently used1 as otherwise an excessive stimulation of the scalp might be the result1 which would be more injurious than beneficial to the growth of the hair4 ,some receipts for hair tonics are here given4 ,eau ,athnienne4--,alcohol of best quality #h quarts1 vanilla tincture #a lb41 cumarin tincture #g ozs41 bergamot oil #c ozs41 rose-geranium oil #aa drachms1 clove oil #ad drachms4 ,after #h days1 add #a quart of rose water and mix thoroughly4 ,florida water ,no4 #a4--;,alcohol #ej quarts1 best lavender oil #c lbs41 bergamot oil #a lb41 ,african rose-geranium oil lb41 tinctures of sanders-wood and turmeric each #aa drachms1 distilled water #af quarts4 ,the alcohol1 volatile oils1 and tinctures are intimately mixed in a glass balloon1 then allowed to stand two to three weeks when the distilled water is added and the whole vigorously agitated4 ,after adding the water the fluid becomes very turbid and requires several weeks to clarify4 ,it is then filtered through paper4 ,if1 notwithstanding filtering1 it should remain somewhat turbid1 bring a small quantity of carbonate of magnesia upon the filter4 ,florida water ,no4 #b4--;,alcohol #be quarts1 lavender oil #g ozs41 palmarosa oil #h ozs41 ,portugal oil and red thyme oil each #c ozs41 tinctures of sanders-wood and turmeric each #e drachms1 rain-water #aj quarts4 ,proceed in the same manner as given for ,florida water ,no4 #a4 ,eau de ,cologne hair tonic4--,alcohol #h quarts1 oils of bergamot and lemons each #a ozs41 lavender oil #aa drachms1 rosemary oil #e drachms1 glycerin of #bh ,b4 #c ozs4 ,after #h days add #g ozs4 of bicarbonate of soda dissolved in #b quarts of distilled water4 ,eau de quinine4--,alcohol of best quality #bj quarts1 tinctures of gall-nuts and ,peruvian bark each #b quarts1 vanilla tincture #a quart1 bergamot oil #g ozs41 ,african rose-geranium oil #c ozs41 clove oil #ad drachms1 glycerin of #bh ,b4 #c lbs41 ,panama wood #d lbs41 boiled with filtered rain-water #ab quarts1 bicarbonate of soda #a lb4 dissolved in #a quart of water4 ,the alcohol1 tinctures1 and volatile oils are brought into a glass balloon and after vigorous agitation allowed to stand #h days for the volatile oils to dissolve4 ,the decoction of ,panama wood is then added1 next the bicarbonate of soda solution1 and finally the whole is thoroughly agitated4 ,the ,panama-wood decoction should not be added while hot1 as otherwise the glass balloon might burst4 ,color the water with cochineal tincture or henna tincture4 ,eau de quinine 7imitation74--,alcohol #be quarts1 vanilla tincture ,no4 #b1 #b quarts1 ,portugal oil #a lb41 palmarosa oil #h ozs41 clove oil #c ozs41 glycerin of #bh ,b4 #c lbs41 ,panama wood #c lbs41 boiled in rain-water #bj quarts1 bicarbonate of soda #a lb41 dissolved in rain-water #a quart4 ,proceed in the manner given for genuine ,eau de quinine4 ,color with henna tincture4 ,honey water4--,alcohol of best quality #h quarts1 orris-root tincture #a quart1 angelica tincture #a lb41 tonka-bean extract #a ozs41 turmeric tincture1 as coloring matter1 #e drachms1 ,portugal oil #g ozs41 lemon oil #a ozs41 citronella oil #e drachms4 ,after #h days add #a liter of orange-flower water4 ,glycerin hair tonic4--,glycerin of #bh ,b4 #a quart1 borax #a oz41 rose water #b quarts1 alcohol #d ozs41 oils of petit-grain and cloves each #b drachms1 rosemary oil #d drachms4 ,dissolve the borax in the water1 the perfume in the alcohol1 and mix all together4 ,it should be clear4 ,color yellow1 if desired1 with saffron tincture4 ,eau lustral 7hair restorative74--,castor oil #b quarts1 linseed oil and tincture of cantharides each #d ozs41 alcohol #ac quarts1 bergamot oil #b ozs41 lemon oil #a oz41 clove oil oz41 neroli oil #b drachms4 ,mix the two fat oils and dissolve them in the alcohol by agitation4 ,then add the tincture of cantharides and the perfumes1 and color red with cochineal tincture or henna tincture4 ,tea hair tonic4--,bay rum #b ozs41 glycerin #b ozs41 alcohol #b ozs41 infusion of black tea #aj ozs4 ,mix and perfume to suit4 ,the tea infusion should be made very strong1 say #a oz4 of best tea 7best quality7 to #aj ozs4 of boiling water1 let stand till cool1 strain1 and add the other ingredients4 ,locock's lotion for the hair4--,expressed oil of nutmeg #e fluid ozs41 olive oil and stronger water of ammonia each #bj fluid ozs41 spirit of rosemary #dj fluid ozs41 rose water sufficient to make #bj pints4 ,the above should be mixed with skill1 best by gradually pouring the combined oils1 with constant stirring1 into the stronger water of ammonia1 previously diluted with the spirit1 and afterwards slowly incorporating the rose water4 ,shampoo lotion4--,new ,england rum #a pint1 bay rum #ab ozs41 glycerin #b ozs41 carbonate of ammonium #a oz41 borax #b ozs4 ,shampoo liquid4--,the readiest agent to produce a good lather upon the hair of the head is a solution of potassa or soda or a dilute water of ammonia4 ,the latter1 however1 owing to its penetrating odor1 is not usually liked4 ,the following combinations will be found serviceable3-- ,i4 ,solution of potassa #d fluid ozs41 borax #a oz41 bay rum fluid oz41 tincture of quillaga fluid oz41 water enough to make #af fluid ozs4 ,this may be scented according to taste4 ,,ii4 ,fresh eggs #c1 spirit of soap #a fluid ozs41 carbonate of potassium #afj grains1 water of ammonia #afj drops1 oil-sugar of cumarin #h grains1 oils of rose and bergamot each #b drops1 ,french geranium oil #a drop1 almond oil #a drop1 rose water #bg fluid ozs4 ,thoroughly beat the #c eggs1 and then dilute with the rose water4 ,then add the other ingredients4 ,oil-sugar of cumarin is prepared by triturating #a part of cumarin with #iii parts of sugar of milk4 ,dandruff cures4--,i4 ,ointment of nitrate of mercury #a drachm1 petrolatum #g drachms4 ,mix4 ,cut the hair short and keep well brushed1 and apply the ointment every night for a fortnight4 ,,ii4 ,red oxide of mercury #aj grains1 ammoniated mercury #aj grains1 petrolatum #a oz4 ,mix1 and apply every night4 ,,iii4 ,corrosive sublimate #cj grains1 glycerin #e fluid ozs41 ,cologne water #e fluid ozs41 water sufficient to make #ae fluid ozs4 ,mix to make lotion ,no4 #a4 ,beta naphthol #abj grains1 alcohol #bj fluid ozs4 ,mix to make lotion ,no4 #b4 ,salicylic acid #abj grains1 compound tincture of benzoin #bj fluid drachms1 olive oil #aj fluid ozs4 ,mix to make lotion ,no4 #c4 ,wash the head thoroughly with terebene soap1 rinse well1 and dry thoroughly2 then rub in some of solution ,no4 #a and allow to dry1 then use ,no4 #b in a like manner1 and finally apply ,no4 #c4 ,the treatment should be carried out daily for a month1 and then every alternate day for a fortnight4 ,the dandruff disappears in a few days1 and the hair in a short time becomes vigorous and supple4 ,dandruff lotion4--,chloral hydrate #a drachm1 glycerin #d drachms1 bay rum #h ozs4 ,bay rum4--,genuine bay rum1 as brought into commerce from ,st4 ,thomas1 is said to be prepared by twice distilling a fine quality of rum with the leaves and berries of ,myrcia acris or the bayberry tree4 ,the berries are much richer in volatile oil than the leaves1 but on account of the height of the trees1 the gathering of the berries is connected with so many difficulties and the harvest so scanty1 that the manufacturers prefer to mix leaves and berries in a certain proportion4 ,the following directions for preparing bay rum are given in ,schimmel ,co4's reports3-- ,i4 ,alcohol of #ie per cent4 #d lbs41 water #d lbs41 bay oil #e drachms1 pimento oil #b drachms1 clove oil #aj drops4 ,mix1 let stand for several days and filter4 ,,ii4 ,alcohol of #ie per cent4 #d lbs41 bay oil #ae drachms4 ,mix1 let stand for #b weeks1 and then add #h lbs4 of best ,jamaica rum4 ,this bay rum is said to be equal to the imported4 ,another receipt for bay rum is as follows3-- ,,iii4 ,alcohol of #ie per cent4 #a quart1 rectified spirit of #fj per cent4 #ad quarts1 bay oil #a oz41 loaf sugar #d ozs4 ,beat up the sugar with the oil and add the alcohol2 then the spirit1 and finally filter4 ,mierzinski gives the following formul for bay rum3-- ,,iv4 ,alcohol #h ozs41 oil of bay #dj drops1 oil of mace #a grain1 oil of orange #bj drops1 ,jamaica rum #a oz41 water enough to make #af ozs4 ,digest #b or #c weeks1 and filter through magnesia4 ,v4 ,alcohol #h ozs41 oil of bay #b drachms1 oil of cloves #a drop1 mace #bj grains1 water warmed to #hj ,f4 to make #ab ozs4 ,dissolve the oils in the alcohol1 digest the mace in the solution for a few days1 filter and add the water4 ,the whole is allowed to stand1 with occasional agitation1 for several days1 and filtered through magnesia4 ,,vi4 ,jamaica rum #cf ozs41 #ie per cent4 alcohol #cf ozs41 oil of bay oz41 oil of pimento #a drop1 acetic ether #d drops4 ,allow to stand at least #c weeks before using4 ,,hair ,,dyes4--,the requirements of a good hair-dye are that it can be readily applied1 that it contains no injurious substances1 and that the coloration be as natural and durable as possible4 ,these demands are difficult to fulfil1 and it cannot be said that there is one of the ordinary hair dyes which in every respect comes up to them4 ,black hair dyes give the most natural coloration1 but the peculiar shade of blue-black hair cannot be imitated4 ,the medium colors1 light brown and blonde1 are the least natural4 ,most dyes allow of rapid coloration1 though1 in order to make the deception more complete1 a gradual coloration is by many persons preferred4 ,such gradual1 though only very slightly darker coloration1 is attained by the use of hair oils and certain animal fats containing a slight content of sulphur or iron1 such as freshly expressed egg oil and neat's-foot oil4 ,it was formerly believed that egg oil1 if used in time1 would even prevent the hair from turning gray4 ,the gradual darkening of the hair may also be effected by agents1 which are converted into colored combinations only by the atmospheric oxygen or the content of sulphur in the hair1 such as extract from nut shells1 tannin1 pyrogallic acid and many metals1 the latter chiefly in the form of pomades or hair oil4 ,dilute acids used for some time make the hair somewhat lighter4 ,mothers wishing to keep the hair of their children blonde1 avoid oils1 and frequently wash the heads of the children with vinegar or lemon juice4 ,no coloration is1 however1 durable2 it becomes in the course of time gradually weaker1 and the new growth of hair always requires after-coloration4 ,for dyeing the hair metallic salts are chiefly employed4 ,owing to their poisonous action the use of lead salts for the purpose is prohibited in some countries1 for instance1 in ,germany and ,austria4 ,silver is used in the form of nitrate of silver 7lunar caustic74 ,in the presence of organic substances1 as well as under the influence of light1 this combination is reduced1 metallic silver in small black grains being separated4 ,silver salts also give a black precipitate of silver sulphide with sulphuretted hydrogen4 ,by simply moistening the hair with silver solution they become brown to brown-black1 the coloration appearing more rapidly by previously treating the hair with pyrogallic acid1 or1 after the application of the silver solution1 with sulphydrate of sodium or potassium4 ,the colorations produced with nitrate of silver are very durable1 but1 if not dyed again for some time1 the hair acquires a greenish or reddish color1 this being especially the case if they were not sufficiently freed from fat before dyeing4 ,for freeing the hair from fat1 wash the hair with a mixture of #a part spirit of sal ammonia in #aj parts of brandy1 and dry carefully4 ,copper salts with certain substances1 such as potassium ferrocyanide solution1 potassium sulphydrate1 calcium sulphydrate1 and pyrogallic acid give dark-brown colorations4 ,of the copper salts1 the sulphate in ammoniacal solution is most frequently employed1 though occasionally also the chloride4 ,these salts give a beautiful brown color to the hair4 ,small quantities of copper salt are also frequently added to the actual black dyes2 the hair by this means acquiring a brown-black1 instead of a deep black color4 ,all the iron salts1 with the exception of the chloride1 may be used for dyeing the hair4 ,soluble iron salts by themselves make the hair somewhat darker1 but this slow1 natural process is not relied on1 and a second substance forming dark colored combinations with the iron1 such as sulphur1 tannin1 or pyrogallic acid1 is1 as a rule1 employed4 ,to this class belongs a ,turkish hair dye1 which1 according to ,x4 ,landerer1 is prepared as follows3 ,gall-nuts converted to a fine powder are mixed with oil and roasted in a pan until no more empyreumatic vapors and odor are evolved4 ,the black powder thus obtained is made into a paste with water1 and into it is stirred a finely pulverized mass prepared from ferrous oxide1 copper1 and antimony1 the result being a deep black mass4 ,this dye is called ,rastikopetra 7eyebrow-stone74 ,it is one of the ,oriental cosmetics used by both men and women4 ,potassium permanganate solution is reduced by organic substances1 peroxide of manganese being formed4 ,a concentrated solution of this salt imparts to the hair and skin an intense brown color1 which1 however1 is not very durable1 and requires frequent renewing4 ,pyrogallic acid may be used for darkening the hair1 not only in combination with metallic substances1 but also by itself1 or with alkalies4 ,hair moistened with pyrogallic acid becomes under the influence of light and air dark gray to blackish4 ,however1 the color is not handsome1 and appears only in the course of weeks4 ,in connection with alkalies1 pyrogallic acid produces a red-brown to black-brown coloration4 ,under the name of ,kohol1 an extremely fine powder1 consisting of black sulphide of antimony1 is used in ,egypt by all classes for blackening the edges of the eyelids and the eyebrows4 ,a hair dye1 much used in the ,orient1 is henna1 the dried and pulverized leaves of ,lawsonia inermis4 ,by the women this powder is used for coloring the hair and nails red-brown4 ,in the ,turkish sweating baths the attendants scatter the henna upon the hair of the women and tie it upon the finger nails4 ,the women then frequently remain for hours in the steam bath1 whereby the powdered henna is converted into an extract-like mass which colors hair and nails red-brown4 ,it is said that henna even colors the coal-black hair of the ,arabs red-brown1 which is considered beautiful4 ,before treating with henna1 the hair must be freed from fat with soap or fuller's earth4 ,hair dyed red with henna acquires a beautiful black color when subsequently treated with indigo1 this mode of dyeing black being much in vogue in the ,orient4 ,the process is as follows3 ,the hair1 being freed from fat with soap1 is divided into separate strands and anointed with quite a stiff paste prepared from pulverized henna and lukewarm water4 ,the hair1 after being smoothed1 is allowed to remain for at least one hour in contact with the paste1 and is then rinsed off with lukewarm water4 ,being slightly dried1 it is then in the same manner anointed with a paste prepared from indigo and water1 and allowed to remain in contact with it for one hour4 ,the hairs which were colored orange-red by the henna1 now have a greenish-black appearance1 but by the oxidation of the indigo in a short time acquire an intensely blue-black color1 which is extraordinarily durable1 the hair only after several months requiring to be again dyed4 ,the freshly expressed juice and the fresh parenchyma of green walnut shells1 or of unripe walnuts1 gradually color light or gray hair dark to nut-brown4 ,the coloring substance is not thoroughly known1 but is very likely a phloroglucide2 it is extracted by fats and alcohol1 but1 according to ,paschkis1 is no longer effective in such solution4 ,this1 however1 is not correct in regard to the alcoholic extract1 because the extract from ordinary walnut shells1 prepared by mixing the expressed juice of green walnut shells with #aj parts of alcohol1 allowing the mixture to stand for ten days1 and then filtering1 also colors brown4 ,peroxide of hydrogen bleaches organic substances1 dark or red hair being thereby changed to reddish-yellow or pale blonde4 ,the coloration1 or rather bleaching1 does not appear at once1 but is complete only after some time4 ,the peroxide of hydrogen only exists in aqueous solution1 which should be quite concentrated 7#ae to #bj per cent474 ,owing to the mode of preparation1 the solution always contains some nitric acid and readily decomposes1 when exposed to light and air1 whereby it becomes useless4 ,in the following1 a number of formul for hair-dyes are given4 ,according to their constitution1 they may be divided into two groups1 viz3 ,a4 ,dyes which contain the coloring matter in a finished state2 and1 ,b4 ,dyes which are formed upon the hair by a chemical process4 ,the dye should first be applied in a dilute state1 and the application repeated in case the desired shade is not produced1 since by the use of the dye in a concentrated form a shade not resembling any natural color might be obtained1 hair which is to be colored black acquiring1 for instance1 a metallic blue-black lustre4 ,a4 ,,single ,,hair ,,dyes4 ,teinture ,orientale 7,karsi74--,ambergris #b drachms1 gall-nuts #d lbs41 pulverized iron #a ozs41 pulverized copper #a drachm1 musk #a drachm4 ,convert the gall-nuts to a fine powder1 and roast the powder in an iron pan1 stirring constantly until it is dark brown to blackish4 ,rub the powder together with the metallic powders1 and the perfume substances and keep the mixture in a damp place4 ,for use moisten some of the powder upon the hand and apply to the hair1 rubbing it in vigorously4 ,in a few days the hair acquires a deep black1 quite natural color4 ,in roasting1 the tannin-substances contained in the gall-nuts are converted into gallic and pyrogallic acids1 which yield with the metals combinations of a deep black color1 and are even readily converted into black-brown bodies 7humin bodies74 ,teinture ,chinoise 7,kohol74--,gum-arabic #a oz41 ,chinese ink #a ozs41 rose-water #a quart4 ,reduce the gum-arabic and ,chinese ink to fine powder1 and triturate the powder in small quantities with rose water until a homogeneous black fluid free from grains is formed4 ,collect this fluid in a bottle and mix it with the remaining rose water4 ,kohol is only suitable for persons with black hair and is especially used for dyeing the eyebrows4 ,the coloring matter of this preparation consisting only of carbon in a very finely divided state1 it is perfectly harmless4 ,potassium permanganate hair dye4--,potassium permanganate #e ozs41 distilled water #b quarts4 ,crystallized potassium permanganate dissolves with great ease in water to a deep violet fluid4 ,by bringing the solution in contact with an organic substance--paper1 linen1 skin1 horn1 hair--it rapidly discolors1 imparting to the substances a brown color1 which originates from peroxide of manganese4 ,free the hair from fat by washing1 and apply the dilute solution with a soft brush4 ,the color appears immediately1 and according to the degree of dilution1 all shades of color from blonde to darkest brown may be produced with this perfectly harmless agent4 ,it may1 of course1 also be used for dyeing the beard4 ,bismuth hair dye4--,subnitrate of bismuth #aj parts1 #aj per cent4 solution of potassa and citric acid each a sufficient quantity1 glycerin #aej parts1 water sufficient to make #cjj parts4 ,intimately mix the subnitrate of bismuth and the glycerin by trituration1 then heat the mixture in a water-bath1 and gradually add to it solution of potassa1 under constant stirring1 until the bismuth salt is dissolved4 ,next add a concentrated solution of citric acid until only a slight alkalinity remains4 ,finally add enough water to make #cjj parts1 and perfume according to preference4 ,walnut hair dye4--,bruise #dj parts of fresh green walnut peel with #e parts of alum1 digest with #bjj parts of olive oil until all moisture has been dissipated1 strain and perfume the oil according to preference4 ,pyrogallic hair stain4--,pyrogallic acid oz41 water #c ozs41 alcohol #a oz4 ,this liquid gives a dark brown color4 ,b4 ,,double ,,hair ,,dyes4--,these and similar hair dyes consist of two preparations1 kept in bottles ,i and ,,ii4 ,the bottle ,,ii1 which serves for the reception of the silver preparation1 must be of blue or black glass1 since silver salts are decomposed by light4 ,for use1 pour some of the fluid in bottle ,i into a cup1 and moisten the hair with it by means of a soft brush4 ,then pour the fluid in bottle ,,ii into another cup1 and apply it with another brush4 ,for dyeing brown4 ,i 7in the white bottle74--,liver of sulphur #g ozs41 alcohol #a quart4 ,,ii 7in the dark bottle74 ,nitrate of silver #d ozs41 distilled water #a quart4 ,for dyeing black4 ,i 7in the white bottle74--,liver of sulphur #h ozs41 alcohol #a quart4 ,,ii 7in the dark bottle74--,nitrate of silver #e ozs41 distilled water #a quart4 ,liver of sulphur is a leather-brown mass1 readily soluble in water4 ,the solution has to be filtered before it is brought into the bottles4 ,by bringing the solutions together black sulphide of silver is formed1 which effects the dark coloration of the hair4 ,after using the dye1 a disagreeable odor of stale eggs adheres to the hair1 which is1 however1 readily removed by washing4 ,the silver hair dyes may also be made by preparing the fluid in bottle ,,ii as follows3 ,add drop by drop water of ammonia to the silver nitrate1 kept constantly agitated until the precipitate formed is redissolved4 ,tannin hair dye4 ,i 7in the white bottle74--,pulverized gall-nuts #ad ozs41 water #af ozs41 rose water #af ozs4 ,boil the gall-nuts in the water1 strain the boiling fluid through a close cloth into the rose water1 and bring the fluid thus obtained1 while still hot1 into the bottles1 which should be immediately closed4 7,it is absolutely necessary to bring the fluid hot into the bottles1 as otherwise mould is readily formed47 ,,ii 7in the dark bottle74--,nitrate of silver #e ozs41 distilled water #a quart4 ,add water of ammonia to the silver solution until the precipitate at first formed is redissolved4 ,melanogne4 ,i 7in the dark bottle74--,nitrate of silver #e drachms1 distilled water #b ozs41 water of ammonia #a oz4 ,,ii 7in the white bottle74--,pyrogallic acid drachm1 #dj per cent4 spirit of wine #ag ozs4 ,eau d',afrique4 ,i 7in the dark bottle74--,nitrate of silver #a drachms1 distilled water #c ozs4 ,,ii 7in the white bottle74--,sodium sulphide #d drachms1 distilled water #c ozs4 ,krinochrom4 ,i 7in the white bottle74--,pyrogallic acid #e drachms1 distilled water #f ozs41 alcohol #e ozs4 ,,ii 7in the dark bottle74 ,nitrate of silver #f drachms1 water of ammonia #b ozs41 distilled water #aj ozs4 ,copper hair dye4 ,i 7in the white bottle74--,potassium ferrocyanide 7yellow prussiate of potash7 #g ozs41 distilled water #a quart4 ,,ii 7in the dark bottle74--,cupric sulphate 7blue vitriol7 #g ozs41 distilled water #a quart4 ,add to the cupric sulphate solution water of ammonia until the pale blue precipitate at first formed is dissolved to a beautiful dark blue fluid4 ,this hair dye gives a dark brown color1 but great care has to be exercised in its use1 the yellow prussiate of potash being very poisonous4 ,,depilatories4--,while the number of agents for promoting the growth of the hair is a very small one1 and their efficacy not above doubt1 there are1 on the other hand1 quite a number of very effective agents for the removal of hair1 sulphur combinations being most frequently used for the purpose4 ,rhusma is a depilatory which has long been known1 and is still almost exclusively used in the ,orient4 ,it consists of #a part orpiment and #f parts of lime slaked to a powder4 ,mix intimately by passing the ingredients through a sieve1 and preserve the mixture in tightly-closed vessels4 ,for use1 stir some of the powder to a paste with water1 and apply it to the place upon which the hairs are to be destroyed4 ,as soon as the layer of paste begins to dry remove it with a thin shaving of wood4 ,owing to the energetic action of this depilatory upon the skin1 ladies are advised not to use it for the face4 ,combinations of sulphur with the alkalies and alkaline earths are much used as depilatories4 ,of these1 sodium sulphydrate1 however1 should never be used1 without the advice of a physician1 as it acts very energetically upon the skin1 and frequently leaves scars behind4 ,calcium sulphide is contained in ,boettger's depilatory4 ,it is usually prepared by heating at a low red heat in a securely-closed crucible an intimate mixture of #ajj parts of finely-powdered quicklime with #ij parts of precipitated sulphur4 ,of the calcium sulphide thus obtained1 mix #a lb4 with #h ozs4 of starch and #g drachms of lemon oil4 ,apply the paste to the place upon which the hairs are to be destroyed1 allowing it to remain #bj to #cj seconds4 ,the action of barium sulphide1 which is frequently used as a depilatory1 is much less energetic than that of calcium sulphide4 ,it is1 for instance1 a constituent of ,bartholow's depilatory1 which consists of barium sulphide #a part1 caustic lime #a part1 and starch #b parts1 made into a paste with alcohol4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,cosmetics4 ,under this heading will be considered toilet vinegars1 washes1 perfumed powders1 pastes1 skin pomades1 as well as paints4 ,the fabrication of cosmetics is an important branch of perfumery4 ,the materials used for the purpose should be selected and of good quality even for cheap articles1 which are1 of course1 also represented in the following receipts4 ,,skin ,,cosmetics4--,toilet vinegars4--,perfumed vinegars1 when added to wash water1 have a refreshing effect and are also used as fumigating agents by mixing them with water in a dish and placing the latter in the room4 ,vinaigre de ,bully4--,alcohol of best quality #aj quarts1 tinctures of orris root1 tolu balsam1 benzoin and storax1 each #a lb41 olibanum tincture lb41 vanilla tincture and best lavender oil #e ozs41 bergamot oil and lemon oil each #d ozs41 acetic acid #b lbs4 ,vinaigre de toilette la rose4--,alcohol of best quality #e quarts1 benzoin tincture #a lb41 angelica tincture #h ozs41 extrait rose ,no4 #a1 #a lb41 ,french rose geranium oil #c ozs41 acetic acid #ad ozs4 ,vinaigre de toilette la violette4--,alcohol of best quality #e quarts1 orris-root tincture #b quarts1 tinctures of benzoin and storax each #g ozs41 bergamot oil #b ozs41 liquid orris-root oil#bd #aa drachms1 acetic acid #a lb4 #bd ,see foot-note1 p4 #beg4 ,vinaigre de toilette hliotrope4--,alcohol of best quality #e quarts1 tinctures of orris root and vanilla each #a quart1 musk root tincture #c ozs41 benzoin tincture #a lb41 bergamot oil #a ozs41 verbena oil and palmarosa oil each #ad drachms1 clove oil #h drachms1 acetic acid #a lb4 ,vinaigre de toilette orange4--,alcohol of best quality #e quarts1 benzoin tincture #aj ozs41 abelmosk tincture and vitivert tincture each #h ozs41 civet tincture #ad drachms1 ,portugal oil #h ozs41 acetic acid #ad ozs4 ,vinaigre de toilette4--,alcohol of best quality #aj quarts1 orris-root tincture #a lbs41 tinctures of benzoin1 tolu balsam and angelica each #a lb41 ,french rose-geranium oil #a ozs41 bergamot oil #d ozs41 lemon oil and lavender oil each #c ozs41 neroli oil #h drachms1 best rosemary oil #aa drachms1 peppermint oil #e drachms1 acetic acid #b lbs4 ,aromatic vinegar4--,tincture of benzoin #a oz41 alcohol #a oz41 acetic ether and extract of jasmine each #a ozs41 acetic acid #c ozs41 oil of rose #aj drops1 oils of neroli and wintergreen each #e drops4 ,english aromatic vinegar4--,crystallized acetic acid #bj ozs41 camphor #b ozs41 oil of lavender #aj drops1 oil of cloves #cj drops1 oil of cinnamon #ae drops4 ,mix and dissolve4 ,the preparation is used for smelling-bottles4 ,the vials are first filled with sulphate of potassa in small crystals1 and enough acetic acid is added to thoroughly moisten the salt4 ,the use of sulphate of potassa is said to have originated from the fact1 that the acid mixture was formerly obtained by introducing into the vials acetate of potassa and a sufficiency of sulphuric acid4 ,whether this be true or not1 sulphate of potassa constitutes an excellent medium for retaining the liquid in the bottle4 ,it acts simply as an incorrodible sponge4 ,toilet vinegar4--,essence of bergamot #bj drops1 essence of ambergris #d drachms1 essence of vanilla and oil of neroli each #cj drops1 strong acetic acid #afj drops1 alcohol #f ozs4 ,washes4--,washes are mostly milky fluids or emulsions1 formed by the fine division of resins or balsams in water1 benzoin and myrrh being especially employed for the purpose4 ,of the former1 it was at one time believed that fumigations with it every evening after washing would prevent wrinkles in the face4 ,the emulsions are used by adding one to two tablespoonfuls to the wash-water4 ,perfumed glycerin is also much employed as an addition to wash-water4 ,virginal milk 7,lait virginal74--,alcohol of finest quality #b quarts1 bergamot oil and ,turkish rose oil each #e drachms1 benzoin tincture #a quart4 ,pulverize in a porcelain mortar about #ad drachms of sugar1 add the bergamot oil and rose oil and mix intimately4 ,now bring the paste-like substance into a glass bottle1 rinse out the mortar with the alcohol and add the latter to the contents of the bottle4 ,close the latter with a well-fitting stopper and place it in a warm room for #h days1 shaking frequently4 ,then add the benzoin tincture1 mix intimately and finally filter through paper4 ,this fluid is used by adding sufficient of it to the wash-water to form an emulsion1 which exerts a refreshing and invigorating effect upon the skin and olfactory nerves4 ,rose milk 7,lait de rose74--,rose water #e lbs41 white beeswax and comminuted ,castile soap each #c ozs41 potash #d ozs41 ,extrait rose ,no4 #a #h ozs4 ,heat the rose-water in an enamelled or porcelain vessel1 and dissolve in it the ,castile soap4 ,then add the wax1 and1 when this is dissolved1 the potash1 stirring constantly1 while the substances are dissolving4 ,when solution is complete1 strain the milk-like fluid through a cloth 7best gauze or muslin7 into another vessel1 cover it and allow it to cool4 ,when cold add the ,extrait rose1 shake thoroughly and fill it into bottles for sale4 ,if the ,lait de rose is to be rose color1 add very carefully a small quantity of corallin tincture and shake vigorously4 ,besides wax1 fatty or oily substances should not be employed in the preparation of these emulsions1 as otherwise they would soon become rancid4 ,almond milk 7,lait d'amandes amres74--,distilled water #e lbs41 bitter almonds #a lb41 white beeswax #a ozs41 comminuted ,castile soap #b ozs41 potash #c ozs41 bitter-almond oil #h drachms1 dissolved in extract from ,pomm4 ,tubereuse #h ozs4 ,scald and peel the bitter almonds4 ,then convert them to a paste by pounding in a clean mortar1 bring the paste into the distilled water1 and extract in a water-bath for about hour4 ,then strain the liquid through a cloth1 successively dissolve the other substances in the strained fluid in the water-bath1 and when all is dissolved1 strain again and proceed as given for rose milk4 ,the bitter-almond oil is dissolved in the extract from ,pomm4 ,tubereuse and added last of all to the liquid mass4 ,lily milk 7,lait de lys74--,rose water1 orange-flower water1 and jasmine water each #a quart1 white beeswax #c ozs41 ,castile soap #b ozs41 potash and orris-root tincture each #c ozs41 cumarin tincture #a ozs41 dissolved in musk-root tincture #c ozs41 bergamot oil #a ozs4 ,proceed as given for ,lait de ,rose4 ,in regard to the ,castile soap1 it may here be remarked that it should be neutral and contain no excess of oil1 as otherwise all the preparations above given might1 in a short time1 become rancid4 ,perfumed glycerin with rose odor4--,chemically pure glycerin of #bh ,b4 #aj lbs41 ,extrait rose ,no4 #a1 #h ozs4 ,by adding the ,extrait rose1 the glycerin becomes turbid1 but clarifies by shaking thoroughly and allowing the mixture to stand quietly for several days4 ,filtering the fluid is not advisable1 and besides entirely useless4 ,perfumed glycerin with fruit odor4--,chemically pure glycerin of #bh ,b4 #aj lbs41 any kind of fruit ether #a ozs4 ,shake thoroughly4 ,the glycerin1 if chemically pure1 is not rendered turbid by the fruit ether1 which1 of course1 must also be of the best quality4 ,,perfumed ,,meals ,,and ,,pastes4--,the perfumed meals are frequently used for washing in place of soap1 or they are applied after washing1 or shaving1 to the skin to prevent the latter from becoming rough or chapped4 ,the pastes are applied in order to make the skin softer4 ,farin de noisette 7nut meal74--,best quality wheat flour #c lbs41 almond meal #a lbs41 orris-root powder #a lb41 bergamot oil #b ozs4 ,mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture through a fine sieve4 ,farin d'amandes amres 7almond meal74--,best quality wheat flour and almond meal each #c lbs41 bitter-almond oil #a oz4 ,mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture through a fine sieve4 ,pate d'amandes au miel 7honey almond paste74--,best quality almond meal #b lbs41 honey #d lbs41 chemically pure glycerin of #bh ,b4 #b lbs41 fresh olive oil #d lbs41 bitter-almond oil #a ozs41 the yolks of #bj eggs4 ,sift the almond meal into a capacious earthenware dish4 ,mix the honey and glycerin after slightly warming them4 ,beat the yolks of the eggs in a small dish with a tablespoon until a uniform mass is formed4 ,now add alternately of the mixture of honey and glycerin and of the olive oil to the almond meal1 work the whole thoroughly with the pestle1 then add the yolks of the eggs1 stirring constantly1 and finally the bitter-almond oil4 ,the whole now forms a viscous mass4 ,it is best to keep the freshly-prepared paste in a well-closed earthenware pot in a cool place for about #ad days before distributing it into boxes1 because after the ingredients are mixed together a slight fermentation takes place which might cause damage by bursting the lids of the porcelain boxes4 ,ladies use this paste for producing a fine soft skin1 upon the hands1 face1 and neck1 for which1 in fact1 it has proved excellent4 ,poudre de riz la rose4--,rice flour #d lbs41 prepared talc #ai ozs41 ,extrait rose ,no4 #a1 #c ozs41 ,french rose-geranium oil #ad drachms1 clove oil #b drachms4 ,the ingredients are intimately mixed and passed through a sieve4 ,the perfumes are brought together in a glass and thoroughly shaken4 ,the same directions hold good for all succeeding receipts for ,poudre de riz4 ,of talc only the whitest pieces should be used1 the ,briancon talc or ,french chalk being very suitable for the purpose1 it yielding a very white and delicate powder4 ,it is prepared as follows3 ,over #a part of talc pour #b parts of vinegar1 let it stand1 with frequent shaking1 for #ad days1 then filter and thoroughly wash the talc with distilled water4 ,if rose-colored poudre de riz rose is demanded1 add to the proportions of weight above given about #a oz4 of madder1 triturate it thoroughly with the powder1 perfume1 triturate again1 and finally pass the whole through a fine sieve4 ,these rice powders are best kept in well-closed tin canisters4 ,poudre de riz hliotrope4--,rice flour #d lbs41 prepared talc #ai ozs41 bergamot oil #aj drachms1 ,french rose-geranium oil #e drachms1 clove oil #b drachms1 vanilla tincture #aj drachms1 ,extrait hliotrope ,no4 #a1 #a ozs4 ,proceed as directed for ,poudre de riz la rose4 ,poudre de riz la violette4--,rice flour #d lbs41 prepared talc #ai ozs41 bergamot oil #aj drachms1 liquid orris-root oil #b drachms1 ,extrait ,violette ,no4 #a1 #a oz41 cumarin tincture #e drachms4 ,proceed as directed for ,poudre riz la rose4 ,poudre de riz orange4--,rice flour #d lbs41 prepared talc #ai ozs41 ,portugal oil #a oz41 petit-grain oil #e drachms1 extract from ,pommade ,orange #a oz4 ,proceed as directed for ,poudre riz la rose4 ,poudre de riz muguet4--,rice flour #d lbs41 prepared talc #ai ozs41 ylang-ylang oil1 wintergreen oil1 angelica oil1 and bitter-almond oil each #b drops1 bergamot oil #e drops1 storax tincture #ad drachms1 ,extrait ,muguet ,no4 #a1 #c ozs4 ,proceed as directed for ,poudre de riz la rose4 ,poudre de riz ixora4--,rice flour #d lbs41 prepared talc #ai oz41 bergamot oil #b drachms1 ,ceylon cinnamon oil #a drachm1 tinctures of orris root and vanilla each #a ozs41 extract from ,pomm4 ,cassie or ,extrait ixora #a ozs4 ,proceed as directed for ,poudre de riz la rose4 ,poudre de riz bouquet4--,rice flour #d lbs41 prepared talc #ai ozs41 bergamot oil #h drachms1 ,african rose oil and ,ceylon cinnamon oil each #b drachms1 ,extrait ess-bouquet ,no4 #a1 #c ozs4 ,proceed as directed for ,poudre de riz la rose4 ,,cold ,,creams ,,and ,,lip-,,salves4--,the purpose of cold creams and lip-salves is to impart lustre to the skin and protect it from cracking in changes of temperature4 ,cold cream4--,fat-almond oil #c lbs41 spermaceti #e ozs41 white beeswax #g ozs41 best rose water #a quart1 bergamot oil #ad drachms1 ,turkish rose oil #e drachms4 ,melt in a porcelain dish in the water-bath1 first the spermaceti and wax1 then add the almond oil1 and when the whole forms a liquid allow the previously warmed rose water to flow in slowly1 stirring constantly4 ,now take the dish from the water-bath1 and with a large spoon of silver or horn stir the mass until it begins to thicken4 ,then stir in the perfume and fill the finished cold cream in boxes4 ,vaseline cold cream4--,white vaseline #b lbs41 fat-almond oil #a lb41 white beeswax #a ozs41 bergamot oil #ad drachms1 ,french rose-geranium oil and ,turkish rose oil each #b drachms4 ,proceed 7without the rose water7 as directed for cold cream4 ,glycerin cream4--,fat-almond oil #c lbs41 white beeswax and spermaceti each #g ozs41 chemically pure glycerin of #bh ,b4 #a lb41 bergamot oil #a oz41 clove oil1 ,turkish rose oil1 and ,french geranium oil each #b drachms4 ,proceed as above4 ,crme de concombre4--,fat-almond oil #h ozs41 white beeswax #aj drachms1 spermaceti #ab drachms1 freshly-expressed cucumber juice #g ozs41 volatile cucumber oil #b drachms1 bergamot oil #a drachms4 ,grate the cucumbers on a grater1 place the grated mass upon a clean white cloth1 and gently express the juice so that no mucus passes through the cloth4 ,the cucumber juice is slightly warmed1 the rest of the process being the same as with cold cream4 ,glycerin gele4--,gum-tragacanth #e drachms1 swelled up in rose water #aj ozs41 chemically pure glycerin of #bh ,b4 #g ozs41 honey #c ozs41 ,extrait rose ,no4 #a1 #a ozs4 ,convert the gum tragacanth to a coarse powder1 bring the powder into a capacious glass flask1 pour the rose water upon it1 and1 after corking the flask1 let it stand for about #c days1 shaking it frequently and vigorously4 ,then strain the swelled gum tragacanth1 which now represents a thick fluid1 through a white cloth or fine-meshed sieve into a dish1 and after adding the glycerin1 honey1 and ,extrait rose1 mix the whole intimately1 and fill the tubes or glasses with the finished preparation4 ,it is an approved remedy for chapped skin4 ,glycerin jelly4--,glycerin #a lb41 fat-almond oil #c lbs41 soap #b ozs41 orange-peel oil #b drachms1 thyme oil #e drachms4 ,mix the soap with the glycerin1 gradually add the oil1 and finally the perfume4 ,cream of roses4--,gum tragacanth #be grains1 glycerin #a oz41 alcohol oz41 water #f ozs41 boric acid #dj grains1 spirits of lavender and bergamot each #a oz4 ,boroglycerin cream4--,dissolve #a part of boric acid in #bd parts of glycerin2 add to this solution #e parts of lanolin and #gj parts of petrolatum4 ,this preparation is said to be excellent for chapped hands1 lips1 etc4 ,rcamier cream4--,the following formula is said to produce something quite similar to this preparation3 zinc oxide #d ozs41 glycerin #ac fluid drachms1 water #e fluid drachms1 spirit of rose 7#d drachms to #a pint7 #a fluid drachm4 ,preparations for chapped hands4--,i4 ,quince seed #b ozs41 rose water #af ozs41 glycerin #cb ozs41 tincture of benzoin #b ozs4 ,macerate the quince seeds in the rose water #bd hours1 strain1 and add the glycerin and benzoin4 ,,ii4 ,balsam of ,peru #a drachm1 purified wool fat #a oz4 ,perfume to suit4 ,,iii4 ,menthol #a4e parts1 salol #b1 olive oil #b1 lanolin #ej4 ,apply twice daily4 ,the pain soon ceases1 the skin softens and the chaps quickly disappear4 ,,iv4 ,quince seed #a drachms1 boric acid #d grains1 carbolic acid #aj grains1 glycerin #b ozs41 alcohol #c ozs41 cologne #b ozs41 oil of lavender #bj drops1 glycerite of starch #b ozs41 water sufficient to make #a pint4 ,dissolve the boric acid in #h ozs4 of water1 macerate the quince seed in the solution for three hours and then press through a straining cloth1 add the glycerin1 carbolic acid and glycerite of starch and mix thoroughly4 ,mix the cologne and oil of lavender with the alcohol1 add the solution to the mucilage and mix the whole well4 ,wash for the hands4--,tannin #h grains1 glycerin #e drachms1 rose water #d ozs4 ,mix and filter4 ,the hands should be washed with soap in soft water1 or water to which a little borax has been added1 thoroughly dried and then well rubbed with the lotion4 ,nail-powder4--,the following preparation serves for the purpose of imparting smoothness and lustre to the finger nails4 ,for use apply some of the powder to a piece of soft glove-leather and rub the nails until they show lustre4 ,stannic oxide 7putty powder7 #b lbs41 carmine #e drachms1 oils of bergamot and lavender each #b drachms4 ,rub the stannic oxide as fine as possible and mix it in the mortar with the other ingredients4 ,lip-salve ,no4 #a4--,pomm4 ,rose ,no4 #bd or #cj1 #h ozs41 best carmine nacarat #b drachms4 ,convert the carmine to a fine powder and thoroughly triturate it with the ,pomm4 ,rose in a porcelain mortar until no more specks of carmine are perceptible4 ,by this trituration the salve becomes very soft and delicate1 so that it can be conveniently pressed into the small boxes4 ,a pleasing lustre is then imparted to the surface of the salve by carefully moving each box to and fro over the flame of an alcohol lamp4 ,it may here be remarked that carmine nacarat is the best coloring matter for lip-salve1 it being far more resistant than1 for instance1 alkannin1 which1 in contact with the skin1 readily acquires a bluish coloration4 ,if lip-salve of a more solid consistency is desired1 the object may be attained by the addition of a few drachms of white beeswax4 ,however1 in this case1 the pomade must be melted in a water-bath1 or the pomade and wax melted together4 ,then add the carmine1 stir until cold1 fill into boxes and make the surface lustrous over an alcohol flame4 ,lip-salve ,no4 #b4--,pomm4 ,rose ,no4 #f or #ab1 #aj ozs41 ,huile antique rose ,no4 #f or #ab1 #ad drachms1 white beeswax #e drachms1 carmine nacarat #b drachms4 ,melt the wax in a porcelain or enamelled vessel1 then add1 first1 the oil1 combine it with the wax1 then add the pomade and finally the carmine4 ,when all this is intimately mixed1 stir it until cold4 ,the further process is the same as given for ,no4 #a4 ,,paints4--,the object of paints is to hide blemishes of the skin and to impart to it a different color--as a rule a youthful one--from that bestowed by nature1 though under certain conditions1 especially in the case of actors1 they are also employed for the purpose of changing the expression of the face4 ,a distinction is made between pulverulent1 solid1 liquid and fat paints4 ,,pulverulent ,,paints 7,,powders74--,the simplest powder is wheat starch4 ,it forms a dull white powder with a bluish lustre1 and is perfectly harmless4 ,powdered talc1 prepared in the manner previously described 7p4 #ccj71 is also much used for powder4 ,by mixing #ajj parts of prepared talc1 while still moist1 with #ab parts of spermaceti1 previously rubbed to a moist powder with some rectified alcohol1 and drying at a moderate heat1 a product known in commerce as ,blanc fard1 or ,blanc franais1 is obtained4 ,talc by itself not furnishing a beautiful white1 it is mixed1 according to circumstances1 with subnitrate of bismuth 7flake-white71 magnesia1 chalk or zinc-white4 ,white lead1 though frequently used1 cannot be recommended1 it being injurious to health4 ,subnitrate of bismuth furnishes the best white2 it has1 however1 the disadvantage of turning brown in air containing sulphuretted hydrogen4 ,zinc-white does not have this defect1 but lacks the lustre and pure white color4 ,customary mixtures for powders are as follows3-- ,i4 ,carbonate of magnesia and wheat starch each #e parts1 prepared talc #ae1 zinc-white #aj4 ,,ii4 ,carbonate of magnesia and chalk each #e parts1 prepared talc #ae1 subnitrate of bismuth #bj4 ,the powders are prepared in three colors3 white1 rose-color and yellowish4 ,to heighten the white color the powder is mixed with about of one per cent4 of ultra-marine4 ,for rose color some carmine is used1 and for coloring yellowish some carmine and yellow ochre4 ,a powder for coloring more intensely red is prepared as follows3 ,mix #ajj parts of prepared talc with #b4e or more parts of carmine1 according to the desired shade of color4 ,the carmine is triturated by itself and in small portions added to the talc4 ,it should not be dissolved1 as given in many directions1 in ammonia1 it losing thereby its fiery red4 ,to obtain an especially delicate powder1 the finished article should be carefully bolted through silk4 ,,solid ,,paints4--,solid paints may be prepared from the above-mentioned powders by stirring them to a paste with thin gum solution4 ,ordinary red paint 7rouge74--,prepared talc #b lbs41 carmine #a oz41 gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water #c ozs4 and gum-tragacanth #b drachms1 best olive oil #e drachms1 best alcohol #a oz41 spirits of sal ammoniac tablespoonful1 distilled water as much as required4 ,fine red paint 7rouge74--,prepared talc #b lbs41 carmine #a ozs41 gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water #c ozs4 and gum-tragacanth #b drachms1 best olive oil #e drachms1 ,extrait rose ,no4 #a1 #a oz41 spirits of sal ammoniac tablespoonful1 rose water as much as required4 ,white paint4--,prepared talc #b lbs41 gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water #c ozs4 and gum-tragacanth #b drachms1 best olive oil #e drachms1 ,extrait rose ,no4 #a1 #a oz41 rose water as much as required4 ,the above-mentioned paints may be filled in small porcelain boxes1 which must1 however1 be hermetically closed to prevent drying out4 ,to obviate the latter1 the paints may be mixed with glycerin1 which must1 however1 be carefully done so that the mass does not become liquid2 too much glycerin may also make the paint blue4 ,regarding the preparation of these paints1 the following may be said3 ,the prepared talc is passed through a fine-meshed sieve into a porcelain dish4 ,the carmine is rubbed fine in a porcelain mortar and then triturated with water#be in the same mortar until no more specks of carmine are visible4 ,now add the dissolved carmine to the talc in the porcelain dish1 stir thoroughly with a horn or wooden spoon1 and gradually add sufficient rose water to form a dough-like mass4 ,then add to this mass about #a ozs4 of gum-tragacanth mucilage1 prepared #c or #d days before from #b drachms of pulverized gum-tragacanth and #c ozs4 of water1 work the mass thoroughly through1 and add the #e drachms of best olive oil4 ,the oil being also incorporated with the mass1 mix in the #a oz4 of ,extrait rose or alcohol1 and again work the mass thoroughly through1 when the paint is ready to be brought upon porcelain plates4 #be ,for fine preparations1 rose water is used2 for ordinary1 distilled water4 ,the procedure is now as follows3 ,by means of a spoon bring a quantity of the paint1 about the size of three hazelnuts upon the centre of a porcelain plate1 spread it out uniformly to the edge of the plate by knocking the latter against the table1 and in the same manner cover #f or #h plates4 ,these are the test-plates4 ,tie a piece of paper over the dish containing the rest of the paint and set it aside4 ,place the plates coated with paint in a dry place to dry1 but do not expose them to sunlight1 nor should soaps be kept in the room1 as in both cases the paint would become blue4 ,after #ab to #ah hours the paint upon the plates will be dry1 and now comes the most difficult part of the manipulation4 ,with a small horn-knife or the sharp edge of a playing card scrape off very carefully and uniformly a small quantity from the surface of the paint1 proceeding from the edges towards the centre of the plate4 ,then1 to see whether the paint adheres firmly to the plate1 knock the edge of the latter quite vigorously against the table4 ,if it adheres firmly1 cover the entire plate with a piece of watered silk1 catch the ends of the latter beneath the plate with the left hand1 and1 with the palm of the right1 run quite hard over the silk4 ,by this means the moir of the silk is imprinted upon the paint1 giving it a nice appearance4 ,proceed in the same manner with the six or eight test-plates1 and if the paint upon them bears the manipulation without dropping off1 work up the rest of the paint in the dish4 ,if1 however1 the paint does not adhere to the plates1 it is proof of it containing not enough gum-tragacanth4 ,in this case add some of the mucilage to the paint in the dish1 work it thoroughly through1 and proceed in the manner described4 ,packing1 labelling1 etc41 being subject to fashion1 need not here be described1 but as the charm of novelty contributes much to the sale of an article1 the manufacturer should make it his business to invent new attractive designs1 without too much imitating others4 ,red stick-paint 7,stick rouge74--,prepared talc #a lb41 carmine #e drachms1 olive oil #b drachms1 alcohol #h drachms1 spirit of sal ammoniac a good teaspoonful1 distilled water and gum-tragacanth mucilage as much as required4 ,the mode of preparation is the same as for solid paints1 except that in order to give the rouge more consistency1 less water and gum-tragacanth mucilage are to be used4 ,for moulding the rouge into sticks1 round tin moulds about #b inches long and of the thickness of a finger are used4 ,to facilitate the removal of the rouge sticks1 the inside of the moulds is rubbed with a rag moistened with olive oil and wrapped around a thin stick of wood4 ,after removing the sticks from the mould1 they are allowed to dry superficially1 and next wrapped first in tissue paper and then in tinfoil1 one end1 however1 being left free from paper and tinfoil4 ,they are finally labelled and packed in paste-board boxes4 ,white stick paint is prepared in the same manner as stick rouge1 with the exception that the carmine is omitted4 ,rouge en feuilles4--,prepared talc #a ozs41 carmine #b drachms1 olive oil #aj to #ae drops1 spirits of sal ammoniac about #ej drops1 pure alcohol #e ozs41 distilled water or rose water #h ozs41 gum-tragacanth mucilage #a ozs4 ,the carmine is first rubbed fine1 then the olive oil1 spirits of sal ammoniac1 and gum-tragacanth mucilage are successively thoroughly triturated with the carmine1 next the talc is added1 then the water1 and finally the alcohol4 ,mix all intimately in a mortar with the pestle4 ,the whole forms a fluid which1 by means of a fine brush1 is applied to a square piece of white card board1 so that a circular disk the size of a silver dollar lies in the centre of the paper4 ,the application of the rouge to the paper has to be repeated three or four times1 allowing one layer to dry before applying the next4 ,when the last layer is dry1 the rouge is smoothed by laying a piece of tissue paper upon it and running the broad side of a paper cutter over the tissue paper4 ,in packing1 a piece of tissue is laid between the separate pieces4 ,,liquid ,,paints4 ,liquid paints are chiefly used by actors4 ,liquid rouge4--,rose water #a quarts1 carmine #a ozs41 ,extrait rose ,no4 #a1 #a lb4 ,heat the rose water1 without allowing it to boil1 in a glazed earthenware vessel1 add the carmine1 previously rubbed fine1 to the hot rose water1 and stir the fluid with a clean wooden spatula until the carmine is completely divided4 ,then take the vessel from the fire and add a tablespoonful of spirits of sal ammoniac4 ,the latter imparts to the rouge a brighter red1 but not too much of it should be used1 as otherwise the rouge acquires a bluish shade1 and besides the odor of the spirits of sal ammoniac is not exactly agreeable4 ,when the rouge is cold add #a lb4 of ,extrait de rose1 mix the whole intimately1 and filter through white filtering paper into a clean glass bottle4 ,the rouge has to be protected from sunlight4 ,white liquid paint4--,fine zinc-white #c lbs41 rose water or orange water #c quarts4 ,in a clean enamelled vessel boil the zinc-white in #e quarts of distilled water1 stirring constantly1 until about #c quarts of the water are evaporated4 ,then take the vessel from the fire and allow the fluid to stand quietly for hour4 ,then carefully decant off the supernatant water1 pour the #c quarts of rose water or orange water upon the zinc-white1 stir thoroughly1 and fill in bottles4 ,fat paints4--,fat paints of various colors and shades are prepared chiefly for the use of actors4 ,the ground mass consists of ,blanc fard or ,blanc franais1 or simply of pulverized talc bolted through silk4 ,it is colored1 according to the color desired1 with carmine1 eosin1 sienna1 lamp black1 or aniline colors1 and incorporated in the proportion of #a ground mass to #a fatty mass1 with the fatty mass consisting of white wax #c parts and olive oil #g parts2 or paraffin #a parts and white vaseline #b parts4 ,the fatty mass is melted in the water-bath1 the powder stirred in1 and after allowing the mixture to cool somewhat1 it is perfumed and poured into tin tubes previously slightly warmed4 ,besides the above-mentioned fat paints in sticks1 there are also fat paints in porcelain boxes1 which are of a somewhat softer consistency4 ,they are prepared in white1 rose color1 and yellowish4 ,a few receipts for them are as follows3-- ,crme de ,lys4--,melt #c ozs4 of spermaceti and #g ozs4 of white wax in the water-bath1 and after taking the mass from the fire mix it with #c lbs4 of subnitrate of bismuth1 previously rubbed fine1 with #a lbs4 of almond oil4 ,then allow to cool somewhat1 next stir until entirely cold1 and perfume4 ,crme de rose4--,spermaceti #c ozs41 white wax #g ozs41 ,blanc ,franais #c lbs41 carmine #h drachms1 almond oil #a-d_/e lbs4 ,proceed as directed for crme de lys4 ,,index4 ,abelmosk or musk-seed tincture1 #bcj1 #bca ,absorption or enfleurage1 process of1 #fj-fe ,acacia oil1 #hg ,acetic amyl acetate or amyl acetate1 #bja ethyl or ethyl acetate1 #bja-bjd ,acid number1 #ha ,african and ,french geranium oils1 #aab1 #aac ,alcohol and sulphuric acid test1 ,hager's1 #gh chloroform1 and benzine1 quantitative determination of adulterations with1 #gb1 #gc or spirit of wine1 detection of1 in volatile oil1 #fh-ga ,alcoholic perfumes1 #bai-bee ,allspice1 oil of1 or pimento oil1 #acf ,almond bandoline1 #cje meal1 #cbi milk1 #cbg oil 7bitter71 #hg-ic adulterations of1 #ij-ib artificial1 #hi1 #ij tincture1 #bcd paste1 honey1 #cbi ,alpine herb oil1 #cja ,ambergris1 #ca1 #ahf-ahh adulterations of1 #ahh tincture1 #bbi ,ambrein or ambrin1 #ahg ,america and ,england1 use and preparation of nitrous ether in1 #bab-bad ,american curled mint oil1 #acb ,english1 or ,canadian castor1 #ahe1 #ahf musk-rat1 musk of the1 #aha1 #ahb oil of turpentine1 #adi peppermint oil1 #acb1 #acc ,american soap industry1 consumption of citronella oil in the1 #ajh storax1 #agb ,amygdalin1 #hh ,amyl acetate or acetic amyl acetate1 #bja valerate or valerianic ether1 #bad-baf ,anethol1 #aaa ,angelica oil1 #ib1 #ic root tincture1 #bca ,animal kingdom1 perfume-substances from the1 #agh-ahh ,anise-seed oil1 #ic1 #id ,antiseptic gargle1 #bge ,apparatus for alcoholic extracts from flower pomades1 #bbc-bbe for determining the percentage of volatile oil in a vegetable substance1 #dj1 #da for distilling lemon oil1 #aah-abj for the absorption process1 #fb-fd for the distillation of volatile oil1 #da-df for the extraction of volatile oils1 #dh-eg for the preparation of tinctures1 #bbf1 #bbg ,apple essence1 #baf ether1 #baf pomade1 #bhi ,apricot essence1 #baf1 #bag ether1 #baf ,aqua mellis1 #bee ,arabian physicians1 receipts for cosmetics in the writings of1 #bf ,arnica tooth-tincture1 #bgf ,aromatic vinegar1 #cbe ,english1 #cbe1 #cbf ,artificial musk1 #ahb1 #ahc perfume-materials1 #ahi-bah ,athens1 luxurious use of ointments in1 #bb ,atomizers1 #bfc ,atomizing1 pine odor for1 #bfe ,attar of roses or rose oil1 #acf-add ,austrian oil of turpentine1 #adh ,avicenna1 receipts for cosmetics in the writings of1 #bf ,balm oil1 #if ,balm-oil tincture1 #bcd ,balsam1 ,brazilian1 #aff ,carthagena1 #aff fumigating1 #bfe1 #bff ,peru1 #aei-aff pine oil1 #adi1 #aej ,tolu1 #aff-afh new variety of1 #afg1 #afh white ,indian1 #agb ,peru1 #agb ,peruvian1 #afj1 #afa ,balsams1 #aee1 #aef and resins1 #aee-agg ,balsamum ,peruvianum1 #aei-aff ,bandoline1 almond1 #cje rose1 #cje ,bandolines1 #cjd1 #cje ,barenthin's application of ,hbl's iodine method to volatile oils1 #hj ,bartholow's depilatory1 #cbc ,bartlett1 ,w4 ,w41 menthol pungent as prepared by1 #bfj ,preston salt as prepared by1 #bfj ,basil oil1 #if tincture1 #bcd ,bayberry oil1 or oil of bay leaves1 #if1 #ig ,bay leaves1 oil of1 or bayberry oil1 #if1 #ig ,bay rum1 #cab-cad formul for1 #cac1 #cad ,beard1 ,rogers's pomade for producing a1 #bid ,bear's grease1 #bhe pomade1 #bhi ,beauty-patch or mouche1 #bh ,beef-marrow pomade1 #bid ,benzine1 detection of1 in volatile oil1 #ga1 #gb ,benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate1 #bjd1 #bje ,benzoin1 #aeg-aei amygdaloid1 #aeg determination of cinnamic acid in1 #aeh1 #aei flowers1 #aei in tears1 #aeg lump1 #aeg pomade1 #bij tincture1 #bbi treatment of fat oils with1 #cjj1 #cja varieties of1 #aeh ,bergamot oil1 #ig1 #ih tincture1 #bcd ,betula lenta1 oil from1 #aeb ,beyer frres1 apparatus for alcoholic extracts from flower pomades1 #bbc-bbe for the preparation of tinctures1 #bbf1 #bbg ,birch oil1 #aeb ,bismuth hair dye1 #cbj nitrate of1 #cce1 #ccf ,bisulphide of carbon1 #dh ,black hair dyes1 #cba tooth-powder1 #bhj wax pomade1 #bii ,blanc fard or blanc franais1 #cce ,blondel1 ,dr41 memoir on the star anise tree1 by1 #ie ,blonde wax pomade1 #bii ,boettger's depilatory1 #cbc ,boroglycerin cream1 #ccc ,bouchardat and ,lafont1 conversion of oil of turpentine into lemon oil by1 #ahi1 #aij ,bouquet vaseline pomade1 #bif ,bouquets1 #bai1 #bdj-bde ,brazilian balsam1 #aff ,brilliantine1 #cje-cjh formulas for1 #cjg1 #cjh ,brown hair dye1 #cba wax pomade1 #bii1 #cjj ,bulgaria1 rose oil industry in1 #acg1 #ach ,burdock-root hair oil1 #cjb ,butyric acid1 preparation of1 #bje-bjg ether1 formation of1 #bjg1 #bjh or ethyl butyrate1 #bje-baj ,cajeput oil1 #ih1 #ii ,camomile oil1 #ii1 #ajj ,camphor tooth-powder1 #bhj ,canadian1 ,english1 or ,american castor1 #ahe1 #ahf ,canango oil1 #aed tincture1 #bcd ,caraway oil1 #ajj1 #aja ,carbon1 bisulphide of1 #dh ,carbonic acid1 apparatus for developing a current of1 #ej-eb ,carob or ,st4 ,john's bread1 #bji ,carthagena balsam1 #aff ,carvene1 #ajj ,carvol1 #ce1 #ajj ,cassia oil1 #ajc1 #ajd tincture1 #bce value of1 #ajd ,cassie1 oil of1 #hg ,castor1 #ca adulterations of1 #ahf ,castoreum or castor1 #ahe1 #ahf ,castor oil1 determination of1 in volatile oil1 #fg1 #fh pomade1 #bic or castoreum1 #ahe1 #ahf tincture1 #bbi ,cedar oil1 #aja tincture1 #bce ,ceylon cinnamon oil1 #ajb1 #ajc ,chalk1 #ccf ,chamomile oil1 #ii1 #ajj ,chapped hands1 preparations for1 #ccc1 #ccd ,chassis1 #fa ,cherry essence1 #bag ether1 #baf laurel oil1 #aja1 #ajb tooth-paste1 #bgh non-fermenting1 #bgh ,chloroform1 alcohol1 and benzine1 quantitative determination of adulterations with1 #gb1 #gc detection of1 in volatile oil1 #ga ,cineol1 #abc ,cinnamaldehyde1 #ajc quantitative determination of1 #ajd-ajf ,cinnamic acid1 determination of1 in benzoin1 #aeh1 #aei ,cinnamon leaves1 oil of1 and cinnamon-root oil1 #ajd oil tincture1 #bce oils1 #ajb-ajf ,cinnamon root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves1 #ajd ,citrene1 #ce1 #aba ,citronella oil1 #ajg1 #ajh tincture1 #bce ,citronellol1 #ajg ,citron oil1 #ajf1 #ajg ,civet1 #ca1 #ahd1 #ahe tincture1 #bbh ,clove-oil tincture1 #bce ,cloves1 oil of1 #ajh-aaj ,cold cream1 #cca creams and lip-salves1 #cca-cce ,cologne water1 #bdi-bed durability of volatile oils used for1 #bej1 #bea preparation of1 #bdi1 #bej receipts for1 #beb-bed ,coloring substances for dentifrices and mouth-waters1 #bgb for pomades1 #bhf ,compound odors1 #bdj-bde ,copper hair dye1 #cbb nitroprusside of1 test1 #ge-gh salts for dyeing the hair1 #cae1 #caf ,cortex thymiamatis1 #afh ,cosmetics1 #cbd-cdb and perfumeries in the ,middle ,ages1 #bf1 #bg and perfumes in ,italy1 #bf1 #bg receipts for1 in the writings of ,arabian physicians1 #bf ,cream1 boroglycerin1 #ccc cold1 #cca glycerin1 #ccb of roses1 #ccc ,rcamier1 #ccc vaseline cold1 #cca ,crme de concombre1 #ccb de lys1 #cdb de rose1 #cdb ,cumarin1 #aij-aic manufacture of1 #aib1 #aic tincture1 #bcb ,curled mint oil1 #acb ,currant essence1 #bag ,cymene1 #aba ,dandruff cures1 #cab lotion1 #cab ,densdorf pomade1 #bij ,dentifrice1 singular1 used by the ,roman ladies1 #bf ,dentifrices and mouth-waters1 coloring substances for1 #bgb mouth-waters1 etc41 #bgb-bhc ,depilatories1 #cbb1 #cbc use of in ancient ,rome1 #be1 #bf ,dioscorides's directions for making animal fats suitable for the reception of perfumes1 #bd for preparing rose ointment1 #bc1 #bd ,medica materia1 #bc ,distillation of expressed oil1 #ci of lemon oil1 #aah of rose oil1 #acg1 #ach of volatile oils1 #ci-dh ancient mode of1 #bd ,distilling apparatus for lemon oil1 #aah-abj ,double hair dyes1 #cba1 #cbb ,dragendorff's test1 #fh1 #fi ,dry perfumes1 #bef-bfa ,dutch tonka bean1 #aia1 #aib ,dwarf pine oil1 #adi ,east ,indian geranium oil1 #aab ,eau ,athnienne1 #cjh ,eau d',afrique1 #cbb de ,botot 7improved71 #bge de ,cologne1 #bdi-bed durability of volatile oils for1 #bej1 #bea hair tonic1 #cji preparation of1 #bdi1 #bej receipts for1 #beb-bed solid perfume1 #bfj de lavande1 #bee double1 #bee de ,lisbonne1 #bee de quinine1 #cji1 #caj 7imitation71 #caj de vie de lavande double ambre1 #bee dentifrice ,botot1 #bgd ,orientale1 #bgd1 #bge lustral 7hair restorative71 #caj cuelle process for obtaining lemon oil1 #aag1 #aah ,egg oil1 virtues of1 #cad ,egypt1 ancient1 paints used in1 #ah1 #ai ,egyptians1 use of perfume-substances by the1 for embalming the dead1 #ah ,eloptene1 #cc ,emperor pomade1 #bib ,enfleurage or absorption1 process of1 #fj-fe ,england and ,america1 use and preparation of nitrous ether in1 #bab-bad use of perfumery in1 #cj ,english aromatic vinegar1 #cbe1 #cbf ,canadian1 or ,american castor1 #ahe1 #ahf peppermint oil1 #acb1 #acc tonka bean1 #aib ,esprit de menthe1 #bgf ,ess-bouquet sachet powder1 #bei solid perfume1 #bfj ,essence l'cuelle1 or au zeste1 #aag apple1 #baf apricot1 #baf1 #bag cherry1 #bag currant1 #bag de jasmin1 #aad de lavande ,montblanc1 #aae de mirbane1 #aii grape1 #bag lemon1 #bag melon1 #bag of ,portugal1 #abe of the odor of ,linden blossoms1 #bch orange1 #bag peach1 #bag pear1 #bag pine-apple1 #bag plum1 #bag raspberry1 #bah strawberry1 #bah ,essences and vinegars1 fumigating1 #bfd-bff pastilles1 powders1 etc41 for fumigating1 #bfb-bga ,essential or volatile oils1 occurrence of1 in plants1 #ca ,ester or ether number1 #hb ,ether1 apple1 #baf apricot1 #baf cherry1 #baf or ester number1 #hb pear1 #baf pine-apple1 #baf strawberry1 #baf ,ethers1 fruit1 #bjj-bah ,ethyl acetate1 or acetic ethyl1 #bja-bjd benzoate1 or benzoic ether1 #bjd1 #bje butyrate1 or butyric ether1 #bje-baj formate1 or formic ethyl ether1 #baj1 #baa nitrite1 or nitrous ether1 #baa-bad ,eucalyptene1 #aaa ,eucalyptol1 #aaa ,eucalyptus oil1 #aaj1 #aaa tincture1 #bce ,eugenol1 #ajc1 #aji ,expression of volatile oils1 #cf-ci ,extract1 concentrated flower1 #bde patchouli1 #bcc spinach1 #bci ,extraction of volatile oils1 #dh-eh or maceration of flowers1 #bhf1 #bhg ,extracts1 alcoholic1 from flower pomades1 apparatus for1 #bbc-bbe and tinctures1 #bbe-bcg ,extrait acacia1 #bcg bouquet ,eugenie1 #bda ,prince ,albert1 #bdc ,victoria1 #bdb1 #bdh cassie1 #bcg chypre1 #bdc1 #bdd1 #bdg de violette de ,parme1 #bci1 #bdj edelweiss1 #bdj ess-bouquet1 #bdj1 #bda1 #bdg excelsior1 #bda fleurs de ,mai1 #bch ,frangipani1 #bda1 #bdi hliotrope1 #bcg ixora1 #bci1 #bdh1 #bdi jacinthe1 #bcg1 #bch jasmin1 #bch jockey club1 #bda1 #bdb jonquille1 #bch kiss-me-quick1 #bdc lily of the valley1 #bch magnolia1 #bch marchal1 #bdd ,may flowers1 #bch millefleurs1 #bdb mogadore1 #bdc mousseline1 #bdd muguet1 #bch1 #bdh musk1 #bdc new-mown hay1 #bdc1 #bdg ,extract opopanax1 #bdb orange1 #bci patchouli1 #bdb rsda1 #bdj1 #bdf rose1 #bdf v4 d4 centifolie1 #bci spring-flower1 #bda1 #bdh tubereuse1 #bdj violette1 #bci1 #bdf white rose1 #bci ylang-ylang1 #bdj1 #bdf1 #bdg ,extraits aux fleurs1 #bai1 #bcg-bdj d'odeurs1 #bai triple concentrs1 #bdd1 #bde ,face1 painting the1 practised by the ,hebrew women1 #ai ,family pomade1 #bij1 #bia vaseline pomade1 #bif ,farine d'amandes amres1 #cbi de noisette1 #cbh ,fat mixtures for hair pomades1 #bhh1 #bhi paints1 #cda1 #cdb ,fats1 animal1 preparation of1 for the reception of perfumes1 #bd for pomades and hair oils1 #bhd protection of1 against rancidity1 #bhe purification of1 #bhe1 #bhf ,federer's1 ,c4 ,f41 test for peppermint oil1 #ace ,fennel oil1 #aaa1 #aab ,filter1 illustrated and described1 #ch1 #ci ,filtration of expressed oils1 #cg-ci ,flake-white1 #ccf ,florentine flasks1 #df1 #dg ,florida water1 #cjh1 #cji ,flower brilliantine1 #cjf1 #cjg extract1 concentrated1 #bde fumigating essence1 hliotrope1 #bfd hair oil1 #cja pomades1 #bhf1 #bhg extraction of1 #bba-bbe ,flowers for the production of volatile oils1 localities best suited for the cultivation of1 #cb1 #cc maceration or extraction of1 #bhf1 #bhg ,formic ethyl ether1 or ethyl formate1 #baj1 #baa ,france1 cultivation of the bitter orange in1 #abf extravagant use of rouge in1 #bh1 #bi golden age for toilet articles in1 #bg-bi introduction of the arts of the toilet into1 #bg old process of maceration in1 #ei ,frangipani sachet powder1 #beh ,frankincense1 in ancient times1 #ai-ba or olibanum1 #agf1 #agg ,french and ,african geranium oils1 #aab1 #aac oil of turpentine1 #adh patchouli oil1 #aca perfumers1 ancient1 privileges of1 #bi1 #cj pomades 7flower pomades71 fine1 #bhf1 #bhg ,fruit ethers1 #bjj-bah ,fuchsine1 detection of alcohol by1 #fi ,fumigating agents1 dry1 objections to1 #bfc1 #bfd balsam1 #bfe1 #bff essences and vinegars1 #bfd-bff pastilles1 powders1 etc41 #bfb-bga lacquer1 #bgj1 #bga mode of1 #bfb1 #bfc object of1 #bfb paper1 #bfh pastilles1 #bfh-bgj ordinary black1 #bfi red1 #bfi powder1 ordinary1 #bff1 #bfg violet1 #bfg powders1 #bff-bfh prejudice against1 #bfb vinegar1 #bff water1 #bff ,funnel1 separatory1 #dg ,geraniol1 #aab ,geranium oil1 ,east ,indian1 #aab ,geranium oil1 palmarosa oil1 ,turkish geranium oil1 #aab tincture1 #bce oils1 ,french and ,african1 #aab1 #aac ,german curled-mint oil1 #acb ,german oil of turpentine1 #adh peppermint oil1 #acb1 #acc ,germany1 manufacture of rose oil in1 from indigenous roses1 #acf ,glycerin cream1 #ccb for dentifrices1 #bgc1 #bgd gele1 #ccb hair tonic1 #caj jelly1 #ccb1 #ccc perfumed with fruit odor1 #cbh with rose odor1 #cbh ,grape essence1 #bag ,greeks1 practice of anointing the body by the1 #ba ,green camomile oil1 #ii ,guaiacum reaction1 ,hager's1 #gh-hj ,gummi myrrha1 #agb-agf resina myrrha1 #agb-agf ,gum-resins1 #aee1 #aef ,guy de ,chanlios1 receipts for cosmetics in the works of1 #bf ,hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test1 #gh ,hager's guaiacum reaction1 #gh-hj tannin test1 #fi-ga ,hair1 copper salts for dyeing the1 #cae1 #caf dye1 bismuth1 #cbj black1 #cba brown1 #cba copper1 #cbb potassium permanganate1 #cbj requirements of a good1 #cad tannin1 #cba1 #cbb ,turkish1 #caf walnut1 #cbj dyes1 #cad-cbb double1 #cba1 #cbb silver1 #cba single1 #cai1 #cbj use of1 in ancient ,rome1 #be green walnut shells for dyeing the1 #cah henna for dyeing the1 #cag1 #cah iron salts for dyeing the1 #caf lead salts for dyeing the1 #cae nitrate of silver for dyeing the1 #cae oil1 alpine herb1 #cja burdock root1 #cjb ,hair oil1 cheap1 #cjc1 #cjd fine1 #cjb1 #cjc flower1 #cja jasmine1 #cjc macassar1 #cjb mignonette1 #cjb neroli1 #cjb ,peru1 #cjb ,peruvian bark1 #cja1 #cjb philocome1 #cjc ,portugal1 #cjc rose1 #cjd sultana1 #cjd tonka1 #cjd vanilla1 #cjc vaseline1 #cjc ,victoria1 #cjd violet1 #cjd ylang-ylang1 #cjc oils1 #cjj-cjd and pomades1 fats for1 #bhd peroxide of hydrogen for bleaching the1 #cah pomade1 fine1 #bia for promoting the growth of the1 #bia pomades1 #bhe-cjj according to the ,german method1 #bhh-bie coloring substances for1 #bhf fine ,french1 #bhf1 #bhg foundations for1 #bhh1 #bhi hair oils1 and hair tonics1 hair dyes and depilatories1 #bhd-cbc potassium permanganate for dyeing the1 #caf pyrogallic acid for dyeing the1 #caf stain1 pyrogallic1 #cbj tonics1 #cjh-cad ,hands1 chapped1 preparations for1 #ccc1 #ccd wash for the1 #ccd ,hebrews1 ancient1 perfume-substances known to the1 #ai ,heliotrope pomade1 #bia1 #bib sachet powder1 #beg ,heliotropin or piperonal1 #aic-aie tincture1 #bcb ,henna-flower1 use of the1 for perfuming1 #ai ,henna for dyeing the hair1 #cag1 #cah ,herb pomade1 #bib ,herodotus on the mode of gaining olibanum1 #ai1 #bj ,heyl's distilling apparatus1 #eg1 #eh extracting apparatus1 #ed-eg ,historical notice of perfumery1 #ag-cj ,hitchin and ,mitchan lavender oil1 #aae ,honey almond paste1 #cbi water1 #caj ,hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test1 #ge-gh ,horse fat1 #bhd1 #bhe ,hbl's iodine method1 #hj1 #ha ,hufeland's1 ,dr41 tooth-powder1 #bhj tooth-soap1 #bhb1 #bhc ,huile antique la rose1 #cja au jasmin1 #cja ,huiles antiques1 #cja ,hydrogen1 peroxide of1 for bleaching the hair1 #cah ,ice pomade1 #bij ,indian balsam1 white1 #agb ,infusion or maceration1 process of1 #eh-fj ,iodine method1 ,hbl's1 #hj1 #ha test with1 #gd1 #ge ,iron salts for dyeing the hair1 #caf ,italy1 perfumes and cosmetics in1 #bf1 #bg ,japanese peppermint oil1 #acb1 #acc ,jasmin1 essence de1 #aad ,jasmine hair oil1 #cjc oil or oil of jessamine1 #aac1 #aad pomade1 #bib ,jessamine1 oil of1 or jasmine oil1 #aac1 #aad ,jockey club sachet1 #beg ,juniper-berry tincture1 #bcc ,juniper odor1 #bfe oil1 #aad ,kabardin musk1 #agi1 #ahj ,kahol1 #cag ,karsi1 #cai ,kienoel1 #adi ,kohol1 #cai ,kopher1 #ai ,kremel's saponification test1 #ha1 #hb ,krinochrom1 #cbb ,krummholz oil1 #adi ,kypros1 #ai ,lacquer1 fumigating1 #bgj1 #bga ,lait1 d'amandes amres1 #cbg ,lait de lys1 #cbh de rose1 #cbf1 #cbg virginal1 #cbf ,lanolin pomade1 #bib1 #bic ,latschenoel1 #adi ,lavande ,montblanc1 essence de1 #aae ,lavender odor solid perfume1 #bfj oil1 #aae1 #aaf adulterations of1 #aaf tincture1 #bce ,lead salts for dyeing the hair1 #cae white1 #ccf ,leather1 perfumed1 #cj ,lebonah1 #ai-ba ,lederin1 #bhf ,lemon essence1 #bag grass-oil tincture1 #bce oil1 #aaf-aba conversion of oil of turpentine into1 #ahi1 #aij tincture1 #bce ,licari oil1 linalo oil1 #abb tincture1 #bce ,lilac oil1 #aba ,lily milk1 #cbh of the valley sachet powder1 #beh vaseline pomade1 #bif ,limes1 oil of1 #aba1 #abb ,linalo oil1 licari oil1 #abb ,lip-salve1 #ccd1 #cce ,lip-salves and cold creams1 #cca-cce ,liquid ambar1 #agb paints1 #cdj-cdb rouge1 #cdj1 #cda storax1 #afh-aga ,locock's lotion for the hair1 #caa ,lotion1 dandruff1 #cab ,locock's1 for the hair1 #caa shampoo1 #caa ,lubah1 #ai-ba ,lunar caustic for dyeing the hair1 #cae ,macassar hair oil1 #cjb pomade1 #bib ,mace oil1 #abd ,maceration or extraction of flowers1 #bhf1 #bhg or infusion1 process of1 #eh-fj ,magnesia1 #ccf ,mandarin oil1 #abe1 #abf ,marinello's work on ,cosmetics for ,ladies1 #bg ,marjoram oils1 #abb1 #abc ,maumen's test1 #hb1 #hc ,meal1 almond1 #cbi nut1 #cbh ,meals and pastes1 perfumed1 #cbh-cca ,melanogne1 #cbb ,melon essence1 #bag ,menthol1 #acc pungent1 #bfj ,messina1 yield of lemon oil in1 #abj ,methyl salicylate1 #aea artificial production of1 #aeb1 #aec ,mierzinski's formul for bay rum1 #cac1 #cad ,mignonette hair oil1 #cjb oil1 #abc pomade1 #bic vaseline pomade1 #bif ,milk1 almond1 #cbg lily1 #cbh rose1 #cbf1 #cbg virginal1 #cbf ,millefleurs fumigating pastilles1 #bgj ,mint1 curled1 oil of1 #acb ,mirbane1 oil of1 #aii ,mitchan and ,hitchin lavender oil1 #aae ,monfalcone's1 ,d41 distilling apparatus for lemon oil1 #aah-abj ,moschus ex vesicis1 #ahj ,moses1 the holy oil prescribed by1 #ba ,mouche or beauty patch1 #bh ,mouth- and tooth-waters1 #bgd-bgg waters and dentifrices1 coloring substances for1 #bgb dentifrices1 etc41 #bgb-bhc ,musk1 #ca1 #agh-ahd adulterations of1 #ahc1 #ahd artificial1 #ahb1 #ahc fumigating pastilles1 #bfi1 #bgj ,musk-rat1 ,american1 musk of the1 #aha1 #ahb root or sumbul-root tincture1 #bca sachet powder1 #bei sac1 how to open a1 #ahj sacs1 illustrated and described1 #agh1 #agi seed or abelmosk tincture1 #bcj1 #bca substitutes for1 #aha1 #ahb tincture1 #bbh ,myristicin1 #abd ,myron1 #ba ,myrrh1 #agb-agf adulterations of1 #age1 #agf oil1 #abc1 #abd tincture1 #bce tincture1 #bcj tooth-tincture1 #bgf ,myrrha electa1 #agc in sortis1 #agc vulgaris1 #agc ,myrrhin1 #agd ,myrrhol1 #agd ,myrtol1 #abc1 #abd ,nail-powder1 #ccd ,neroli hair oil1 #cjb ,neroli oil1 adulterations of1 #abg1 #abh or orange-flower oil1 #abf-abi tincture1 #bce petale1 #abg pomade1 #bic vaseline pomade1 #bif ,new-mown hay fumigating powder1 #bfg1 #bfh sachet powder1 #bei ,nitrate of bismuth1 #cce1 #ccf of silver for dyeing the hair1 #cae ,nitrobenzol1 #aih-bjj adulterations of1 #aii ,nitroprusside of copper test1 #ge-gh ,nitrous ether1 or ethyl nitrite1 #baa-bad ,nut meal1 #cbh ,nutmeg oils1 #abd1 #abe ,odontine1 #bge or tooth-paste1 #bgg1 #bgh paste1 #bgh ,odor and taste1 testing the1 of volatile oils1 #ff1 #fg ,odors1 compound1 #bdj-bde ,oil1 castor1 determination of1 in volatile oil1 #fg1 #fh fat1 adulteration with1 of volatile oil1 #fg1 #fh the holy1 prescribed by ,moses1 #ba volatile1 apparatus for determining the percentage of1 in a vegetable substance1 #dj1 #da for the distillation of1 #da-df ,planchon's procedure for the recognition of a1 #hc-hf separation of the1 and water1 #df1 #dg testing the odor of1 #ff the taste of1 #fg ,oils1 fat1 treatment of1 with benzoin1 #cjj1 #cja oxygenated1 behavior of1 towards nitroprusside of copper1 #gf-gh perfuming of1 #fa1 #fb volatile1 #cc-fe ancient mode of distilling1 #bd apparatus for the extraction of1 #dh-eg characteristics of1 #cc1 #cd concentrated1 #ce detection of adulterations of1 with an oil of lower quality1 #gd-hc distillation of1 #ci-dh division of1 with reference to the guaiacum reaction1 #gi1 #hj expression of1 #cf-ci extraction of1 #dh-eh extra strong1 #ce for ,cologne water1 durability of1 #bej1 #bea localities best suited for the cultivation of flowers for the production of1 #cb1 #cc modes of obtaining1 #cf-fe or essential1 occurrence of1 in plants1 #ca patented1 #ce principal divisions of1 #cd solubility of1 #cc storage of1 #fe testing of1 #ff-hf the1 used in perfumery1 #hg-aed ,ointment makers1 ancient1 condition of1 #bd1 #be rose1 according to ,dioscorides1 #bc1 #bd ,ointments1 directions for preparing1 in ancient works1 #bc1 #bd foreign1 edict against1 in ,rome1 #bb for the different parts of the body used by the ,athenians1 #bb ,oleum abietes1 #adi canadensis1 #adi1 #aej amygdal amar1 #hg-ic anisi1 #ic1 #id anthemidis1 #ii1 #ajj anthos1 #add1 #ade cajeputi1 #ih1 #ii carui1 #ajj1 #aja caryophylli1 #ajh-aaj cassi1 #ajc1 #ajd cedri1 #aja cinnamoni ceylonici1 #ajb1 #ajc citri1 #ajf1 #ajg eucalypti1 #aaj1 #aaa australe1 #aaj florum aurantii1 #abf-abi fniculi1 #aaa1 #aab gaultheri1 #aea-aec geranii1 #aab1 #aac iridis1 #abi1 #acj iva ranchusa1 #aej1 #aea juniperi1 #aad laurocerasi1 #aja1 #ajb lavandul1 #aae1 #aaf ligni rhodii1 #ade sandali1 #ade sassafras1 #ade-adg limett1 #aba1 #abb limonis1 #aaf-aba macidis1 #abd menth crisp1 #acb piperit1 #acb-ace pulegii1 #ace1 #acf myrth1 #abc1 #acd naph1 #abf-abi neroli1 #abf-abi nucist thereum1 #abd petit grain1 #abi pimenta1 #acf pini1 #adi pumilionis1 #adi rsd1 #abc rosemarini1 #add1 #ade templinum1 #adi unon1 #aec1 #aed ,olibanum in ancient times1 #ai-ba or frankincense1 #agf1 #agg tincture1 #bcj ,opiat liquide pour les dents1 #bhj1 #bha ,opopanax1 #agf oil1 #abe tincture1 #bce tincture1 #bcj ,orange1 bitter1 localities for the cultivation of the1 #abf essence1 #bag flower oil1 or neroli oil1 #abf-abi water1 #abh fumigating powder1 #bfg peel oil1 #abe sachet powder1 #bei ,oriental flower fumigating essence1 #bfe pomade1 #bic ,orris-root oil1 #abi1 #acj liquid1 #beg tincture1 #bce tincture1 #bca ,orris stearoptene1 #abi ,paint1 fine red1 #ccg ordinary red1 #ccf1 #ccg red stick1 #cci white1 #ccg liquid1 #cda stick1 #cdj ,paints1 #cce-cdb fat1 #cda1 #cdb liquid1 #cdj-cdb preparation of1 #ccg-cci pulverulent1 #cce1 #ccf solid1 #ccf-cdj use of1 by the ,roman ladies1 #be ,palermo1 yield of lemon oil in1 #abj ,palmarosa oil1 geranium oil1 ,turkish geranium oil1 #aab ,paper1 fumigating1 #bfh ,paraffine1 solid perfumes with1 #bei1 #bfj ,paraguay1 manufacture of petit-grain oil in1 #abi ,paris1 annual sale of perfumery in1 #bi1 #cj ,paste1 honey almond1 #cbi ,pastes and meals1 perfumed1 #cbh-cca and powders for the teeth1 #bgg-bhc ,pastilles1 fumigating1 #bfh-bgj powders1 essences1 etc41 for fumigating1 #bfb-bga ,patchouli-camphor1 #aca ,patchouli extract1 #bcc leaves1 #acj1 #aca oil1 #acj-acb tincture1 #bce sachet powder1 #beh ,pate d'amandes au miel1 #cbi ,peach essence1 #bag kernels1 use of1 in the fabrication of bitter-almond oil1 #hh ,pear essence1 #bag ether1 #baf ,penang patchouli oil1 #aca ,peppermint oil1 adulterants of1 #acd1 #ace oils1 #acb-acf ,american1 ,english1 and ,german1 mode of distinguishing1 #acc1 #acd ,pepper1 perfume-substance from1 #aid ,perfumed meals and pastes1 #cbh-cca ,perfume-materials1 artificial1 #ahi-bah for the manufacture of perfumery1 #ca-fe substances1 consumption of1 by the ancient ,romans1 #bd consumption of1 by the early nations of the ,orient1 #ag from the animal kingdom1 #agh-ahh ,perfumeries and cosmetics in the ,middle ,ages1 #bf1 #bg ,perfumer1 the actual flower garden of the1 #cb what the art of the1 consists in1 #bai ,perfumers1 ,french1 ancient privileges of1 #bi1 #cj ,perfumery1 annual sale of1 in ,paris1 #bi1 #cj historical notice of1 #ag-cj perfume-substances for themanufacture of1 #ca-fe the volatile oils used in1 #hg-aed use of1 in ,england1 #cj ,perfumes1 alcoholic1 #bai-bee and cosmetics in ,italy1 #bf1 #bg dry1 #bef-bfa preparation of animal fats for the reception of1 #bd solid1 with paraffine1 #bei1 #bfj ,peroxide of hydrogen for bleaching the hair1 #cah ,peru balsam1 #aei-aff adulterants of1 #afb oil1 #afa statistics of1 #afb tests for1 #afb-aff tincture1 #bbi white1 #agb hair oil1 #cjb ,peruvian balsam1 white1 #afj1 #afa bark hair oil1 #cja1 #cjb ,petit-grain oil1 #abi tincture1 #bcf ,petroleum-ether1 #dh as testing agent for ,peru balsam1 #afc ,philocome hair oil1 #cjc ,pimento oil1 or oil of allspice1 #acf ,pineapple essence1 #bag ether1 #baf ,pine-leaf oil1 #adi tincture1 #bcf ,pine odor for atomizing1 #bfe oil1 #adi ,piperate1 potassium1 #aid ,piperine1 #aid ,piperonal1 how obtained1 #aid1 #aie or heliotropin1 #aic-aie ,piver's apparatus for maceration1 #ei1 #fj for the absorption process1 #fc1 #fd ,planchon's procedure for the recognition of a volatile oil1 #hc-hf ,plants1 families of1 richest in volatile oils1 #cb occurrence of volatile oils in1 #ca ,pliny's account of olibanum1 #bj1 #ba ,historia naturalis1 #bc ,plum essence1 #bag ,plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in ,rome1 #bb1 #bc ,paraffin ice pomade1 #bic ,poley oil1 #ace1 #acf ,pomade1 apple1 #bhi bear's grease1 #bhi beef-marrow1 #bid benzoin1 #bij black wax1 #bii blonde wax1 #bii bouquet vaseline1 #bif brown wax1 #bii1 #cjj castor oil1 #bic cheap1 #bic wax1 #bij ,densdorf1 #bij emperor1 #bjb extra fine vaseline1 #bih family1 #bij1 #bia vaseline1 #bif fine1 #bia1 #bid vaseline 7yellow71 #big for promoting the growth of the hair1 #bia hliotrope1 #bia1 #bib herb1 #bib ice1 #bij jasmine1 #bib lanolin1 #bib1 #bic lily of the valley vaseline1 #bif macassar1 #bib mignonette1 #bic vaseline1 #bif neroli1 #bic vaseline1 #bif oriental1 #bic paraffin ice1 #bic ,portugal1 #bib vaseline1 #bif princess1 #bic1 #bid quinine1 #bhi1 #bij 7imitation71 #bij resin1 #cjj ,rogers's1 for producing a beard1 #bid rose1 #bid wax1 #bii salicylic1 #bid stick1 manufacture of1 #bih1 #bii strawberry1 #bia tonka1 #bid1 #bie vanilla1 #bie vaseline 7red71 #big 7white71 #big foundations for1 #bif ,victoria1 #bid vaseline1 #big1 #bih violet1 #bie ,virginia vaseline1 #big walnut1 #bie ,pomades1 #bhe-cjj according to the ,german method1 #bhh-bie and hair oils1 fats for1 #bhd coloring substances for1 #bhf designation of the qualities of1 #bai1 #bbj foundations for1 #bhh1 #bhi resin1 #bih stick1 #bih-cjj foundations for1 #bih vaseline1 #bie-bih wax1 #bih ,pommade l'acacia1 #bhg la fleur d'orange1 #bhg la rose1 #bhg l'hliotrope1 #bhg ,portugal hair oil1 #cjc oil1 #abe tincture1 #bcf pomade1 #bib vaseline pomade1 #bif ,potassium permanganate for dyeing the hair1 #caf hair dye1 #cbj piperate1 #aid ,poudre d',algrine1 #bha1 #bhb de corail1 #bhj de riz la rose1 #cbi1 #ccj de riz la violette1 #ccj de riz bouquet1 #cca de riz hliotrope1 #ccj de riz ixora1 #cca de riz muguet1 #ccj1 #cca de riz orange1 #ccj dentifrice1 #bgi ,powder for coloring intensely red1 #ccf new-mown hay fumigating1 #bfg1 #bfh orange fumigating1 #bfg ordinary fumigating1 #bff1 #bfg rose fumigating1 #bfg ,powders1 #cce1 #ccf and pastes for the teeth1 #bgg-bhc fumigating1 #bff-bfh mixtures for1 #ccf pastilles1 and essences1 etc41 for fumigating1 #bfb-bga ,preston salt1 #bfj ,princess pomade1 #bic1 #bid ,pyrogallic acid for dyeing the hair1 #caf hair stain1 #cbj ,quinine pomade1 #bhi1 #bij 7imitation71 #bij tooth-water1 #bgf ,raspberry essence1 #bah ,rastikopetra1 #caf ,rcamier cream1 #ccc ,red paint1 fine1 #ccg ordinary1 #ccf1 #ccg stick paint1 #cci thyme oil1 #adg ,reggio1 mode of manufacturing bergamot oil in1 #aah ,rsda sachet powder1 #beh1 #bei ,resin pomade1 #cjj pomades1 #bih ,resins and balsams1 #aee-agg definition of1 #aee diffusion of1 in the vegetable kingdom1 #aef elementary constituents of1 #aee hard1 #aee soft1 #aee1 #aef ,rhazes1 receipts for cosmetics in the writings of1 #bf ,rhodium oil1 or rosewood oil1 #ade ,rhusma1 #cbb1 #cbc ,righini's method for testing bergamot oil1 #ih ,rogers's pomade for producing a beard1 #bid ,romans1 ancient1 consumption of perfume-substances by the1 #bd ,rome1 introduction of ointments in1 #bb ,plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in1 #bb1 #bc ,rosa alba1 #acg damascena1 #acg ,rose bandoline1 #cje flower fumigating essence1 #bfd fumigating pastilles1 #bgj powder1 #bfg hair oil1 #cjd milk1 #cbf1 #cbg oil1 adulterants of1 #adb adulteration of1 in ,bulgaria #adj determination of spermaceti in1 #adc1 #add insulation and determination of the stearoptene in1 #aci1 #adj judging the genuineness of1 #aci liquid1 #aci or attar of roses1 #acf-add principal localities of production of1 #acf test for1 #adc used in ,bulgaria1 #ada tincture1 #bcf1 #bcg ointment1 according to ,dioscorides1 #bc1 #bd pomade1 #bid wax pomade1 #bii ,rosemary oil1 #add1 #ade ,roses1 cream of1 #ccc ,rosewood oil1 or rhodium oil1 #ade ,rouge1 #ccf1 #ccg en feuilles1 #cdj extravagant use of1 in ,france1 #bh1 #bi liquid1 #cdj1 #cda moulding of1 into sticks1 #cci stick1 #cci ,russian or ,siberian castor1 #ahe1 #ahf musk1 #agi1 #ahj ,sachet la rose1 #beg la violette1 #beg aux millefleurs1 #beh jockey club1 #beg powder1 ess-bouquet1 #bei ,frangipani1 #beh hliotrope1 #beg lily of the valley1 #beh musk1 #bei new-mown hay1 #bei orange1 #bei patchouli1 #beh rsda1 #beh1 #bei ,victoria1 #beh ylang-ylang1 #beg powders1 #bef-bei ,safrene1 #adf ,safrol1 #adf1 #adg ,st4 ,john's bread or carob1 #bji ,salicylic pomade1 #bid ,salts1 smelling1 #bfj1 #bfa ,salve1 ,cyprian1 #ai ,sandal-wood oil1 #ade tincture1 #bcf ,saudarac1 #agg ,sandaracin1 #agg ,saponaceous tooth-wash1 #bhc ,saponification number1 #ha test1 ,kremel's1 #ha1 #hb ,sassafras oil1 #ade-adg ,sartorius ylang-ylang oil1 #aed ,schimmel ,co4's directions for bay rum1 #cac directions for the quantitative determination of cinnamaldehyde1 #ajd-ajf improved still1 #dd-df ,separator-funnel1 #dg ,shampoo liquid1 #caa1 #cab lotion1 #caa ,siberian or ,russian castor1 #ahe1 #ahf musk1 #agi1 #ahj ,silver1 nitrate of1 for dyeing the hair1 #cae ,single hair dyes1 #cai1 #cbj ,siphon still1 #da1 #db ,skin cosmetics1 #cbd-cbh ,smelling salts1 #bfj1 #bfa ,soap for dentifrices1 #bgc ,solid paints1 #ccf-cdj ,solubility of volatile oils1 #cc ,sozodont1 #bge ,spanish marjoram oil1 #abb1 #abc ,spermaceti1 determination of1 in rose oil1 #adc1 #add ,spike oil1 #aae ,spinach extract1 #bci ,spirit of wine1 or alcohol1 detection of1 in volatile oil1 #fh-ga ,sponge-process for obtaining lemon oil1 #aaf1 #aag ,stahl's tooth-tincture1 #bgf ,star anise oil1 #id1 #ie ,stearoptene1 #cc of rose oil1 #ach ,stick paint1 white1 #cdj pomade1 manufacture of1 #bih1 #bii pomader1 #bih-cjj foundations for1 #bih rouge1 #cci ,still1 for direct steam1 #dc1 #dd improved1 #dd-df ,still1 ordinary1 conversion of1 into use with steam1 #db1 #dc siphon1 #da1 #db ,stohman's test for oil of cloves1 #aji ,storax1 #afh-agb ,american1 #agb in grains1 #aga liquid1 #afh-aga adulterations of1 #agj1 #aga ordinary1 #aga1 #agb tincture1 #bcj ,strawberry essence1 #bah ether1 #baf pomade1 #bia ,styracin1 #agj ,styrax calamitus1 #aga1 #agb vulgaris1 #aga1 #agb ,styrol1 #afi1 #agj ,sultana hair oil1 #cjd ,sumbul root1 or musk-root tincture1 #bca ,tannin hair dye1 #cba1 #cbb ,taste and odor1 testing the1 of volatile oils1 #ff1 #fg ,tea hair tonic1 #caj1 #caa ,teinture ,chinoise 7,kohol71 #cai ,orientale 7,karsi71 #cai ,templin oil1 #adi ,terpenes1 #ce1 #cf adulterations of volatile oil with1 #gc ,terpilene1 #ahi1 #aij ,testing volatile oils1 #ff-hf ,theophrastus's work ,on ,perfumes1 #bc ,thibet or ,oriental musk1 #agh1 #agi ,thymene1 #adg ,thyme oil1 #adg1 #adh from the field thyme1 #adg1 #adh ,thymol1 #adg1 #bgc tooth-paste1 #bgh tooth-powder1 #bgi tooth-water1 #bgd ,tincture1 ambergris1 #bbi angelica-root1 #bca balm-oil1 #bcd basil-oil1 #bcd benzoin1 #bbi bergamot-oil1 #bcd bitter almond-oil1 #bcd canango-oil1 #bcd cassia-oil1 #bce castor1 #bbi cedar-oil1 #bce cinnamon-oil1 #bce citronella-oil1 #bce civet1 #bbh clove-oil1 #bce cumarin1 #bcb eucalyptus-oil1 #bce geranium-oil1 #bce heliotropin1 #bcb juniper-berry1 #bcc lavender-oil1 #bce lemon-grass oil1 #bce lemon-oil1 #bce licari-oil1 #bce musk1 #bbh root or sumbul-root1 #bca seed or abelmosk1 #bcj1 #bca myrrh1 #bcj oil1 #bce neroli-oil1 #bce olibanum1 #bcj opopanax1 #bcj oil1 #bce orris-root1 #bca oil1 #bce patchouli-oil1 #bce ,peru-balsam1 #bbi petit-grain-oil1 #bcf pine-leaf-oil1 #bcf ,portugal-oil1 #bcf rose-oil1 #bcf1 #bcg sandal-wood-oil1 #bcf storax1 #bcj tolu-balsam1 #bbi1 #bcj tonka-bean1 #bca1 #bcb vanilla1 #bcb vanillin1 #bcb verbena-oil1 #bcf vitivert1 #bcc oil1 #bcf wintergreen-oil1 #bcf ylang-ylang-oil1 #bcf ,tinctures and extracts1 #bbe-bcg apparatus for the preparation of1 #bbf1 #bbg ,toilet articles1 golden age for1 in ,france1 #bg-bi arts of the1 in ancient times1 #ah introduction of the arts of the1 into ,france1 #bg vinegar1 #cbf ,tolu balsam1 #aff-afh new variety of1 #afg1 #afh ,tolu balsam1 tincture1 #bbi1 #bcj ,toluene1 #aff1 #afg ,tonka beans1 #aia1 #aib bean tincture1 #bca1 #bcb hair oil1 #cjd pomade1 #bid1 #bie ,tonkin musk1 #agh1 #agi characteristics of1 #ahj1 #aha ,tooth-and mouth-waters1 #bgd-bgg paste or odontine1 #bgg1 #bgh pastes and tooth-powders1 #bgg-bhc powder1 ,dr4 ,hufeland's1 #bhj powders and tooth-pastes1 #bgg-bhc preparation of1 #bgi soap1 #bhc ,dr4 ,hufeland's1 #bhb1 #bhc tincture1 ,dr4 ,stahl's1 #bgf tinctures1 use of1 #bgf1 #bgg ,trotula1 works of1 #bf ,turkish geranium oil1 palmarosa oil1 geranium oil1 #aab hair dye1 #caf ,turpentine1 oil of1 #adh-aej conversion of1 into lemon oil1 #ahi1 #aij ,united ,states1 adaptation of some districts of1 for the cultivation of plants1 #cc ,valerianic ether1 or amyl valerate1 #bad-baf ethyl ether1 #baf ,vanilla1 #aie1 #aif hair oil1 #cjc pomade1 #bie tincture1 #bcb ,vanillin1 #aie-aih adulteration of1 #aih preparation of1 #aif1 #aig tincture1 #bcb ,vaseline cold cream1 #cca hair oil1 #cjc pomade1 extra fine1 #bih fine 7yellow71 #big 7red71 #big 7white71 #big pomades1 #bie-bih foundations for1 #bif ,venetian oil of turpentine1 #adh ,verbena oil1 #aej tincture1 #bcf ,vetiver oil1 or vitivert oil1 #aej1 #aea ,victoria hair oil1 #cjd pomade1 #bid sachet powder1 #beh vaseline pomade1 #big1 #bih ,vinaigre de ,bully1 #cbd de toilette1 #cbe de toilette l'hliotrope1 #cbe de toilette la rose1 #cbd de toilette la violette1 #cbd de toilette orange1 #cbe ,vinegar1 aromatic1 #cbe1 #cbf fumigating1 #bff toilet1 #cbf ,vinegars and essences1 fumigating1 #bfd-bff ,violet-flower fumigating essence1 #bfe ,violet fumigating pastilles1 #bgj powder1 #bfg hair oil1 #cjd mouth-water1 #bge oil of1 #aej pomade1 #bie tooth-powder1 #bgi ,virginal milk1 #cbf ,virginia vaseline pomade1 #big ,vitivert-oil tincture1 #bcf ,vitivert1 or vetiver oil1 #aej1 #aea tincture1 #bcc ,volatile oil1 apparatus for determining the percentage of1 in a vegetable substance1 #dj1 #da apparatus for the distillation of1 #da-df ,planchon's procedure for the recognition of a1 #hc-hf separation of the1 and #df1 #dg testing the odor of1 #ff the taste of1 #fg oils1 #cc-fe ancient method of distilling1 #bd apparatus for the extraction of1 #dh-eg characteristics of1 #cc1 #cd concentrated1 #ce detection of adulterations of1 with an oil of lower quality1 #gd-hc distillation of1 #ci-dh division of1 with reference to the guaiacum reaction1 #gi1 #hj expression of1 #cf-ci extraction of1 #dh-eh extra strong1 #ce for ,cologne water1 durability of1 #bej1 #bea localities best suited for the cultivation of flowers for the production of1 #cb1 #cc modes of obtaining1 #cf-fe patented1 #ce principal divisions of1 #cd solubility of1 #cc storage of1 #fe testing of1 #ff-hf the1 used in perfumery1 #hg-aed or essential oils1 occurrence of1 in plants1 #ca ,walnut hair dye1 #cbj pomade1 #bie shells1 green1 for dyeing the hair1 #cah ,washes1 #cbf-cbh ,wash for the hands1 #ccd ,water1 fumigating1 #bff separation of the1 and oil1 #df1 #dg ,wax pomade1 cheap1 #cjj pomades1 #bih ,white lead1 #ccf liquid paint1 #cda paint1 #ccg rose solid perfume1 #bei smelling salts1 #bfj1 #bfa stick paint1 #cdj thyme oil1 #adg tooth-powder1 #bhj ,williams1 ,f4 ,r41 utilization of ,maumen's test by1 #hb1 #hc ,wintergreen oil1 #aea-aec adulteration of1 #aec tincture1 #bcf ,ylang-ylang hair oil1 #cjc oil1 #aec1 #aed tincture1 #bcf sachet powder1 #beg ,yunnan musk1 #agh1 #agi ,zibethum1 #ahd1 #ahe ,zinc white1 #ccf ,transcriber's ,notes ,obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected4 ,variable use of accents and ligatures has been standardised to ensure compatibility between text and index4 ,the reference in the index to oleum uon has been corrected to oleum unon4 ,the index lists ,pomade - cheap - wax at page #cij1 which does not exist4 ,this has been changed to #bij4 ,footnotes #ab and #ac1 merely repeat footnote #aa1 so have been removed and all references changed to footnote #aa4 ,italics are shown thus italic and subscripts thus #b4