,transcrib]'s ,note3 ,inconsi/5t hyph5ation & spell+ 9 ! orig9al docum5t h be5 pres]v$4 ,obvi\s typographical errors h be5 correct$4 ,italic text is d5ot$ by und]scores & bold text by equal signs4 ,d',appligny 0 *ang$ to ,d',apligny4 ,gallium 0 *ang$ to ,galium4 ,page #acb3 a ,note 0 an*or$1 & add$ to ! footnote sequ5ce4 ,inconsi/5t punctuation & capitalization ( li/s1 *apt] head+s1 & footnotes 0 reta9$4 ,! li/$ ,errata 7 correct$4 ,a ,,book ,,on ,,vegetable ,,dyes ,,by ,,e!l ,m4 ,,mairet ,a4,d4 #aiaf ,,publi%$ ,,by ,,d\glas ,,pepl] ,,at ,,! ,,hamp%ire ,,h\se ,,work%ops ,,hamm]smi? ,w ,price #es4 net4 ,,pr9t$ by ,,d\glas ,,pepl] at ,,dit*l+ 9 ! ,,c\nty ( ,,sussex ,,publi%$ ,,by ,,him ,,at ,,! ,,hamp%ire ,,h\se ,,work%ops ,,hamm]smi? ,,on ,s4 ,,john ,,! ,,bapti/',s ,,day ,a4,d4 ,,mdccccxvi ,,publi%]',s ,,note ,,9 ,,pr9cipio ,,erat ,,v]bum ,,et ,,v]bum ,,erat ,,apud ,,deum ,,et ,,deus ,,erat ,,v]bum4 ,sc4 ,joannem #a4a4 ,,viditque ,,deus ,,cuncta ,,qu ,,fec]at3 ,,et ,,erant ,,valde ,,bona4 ,g5esis4 #a4ca4 ,,man uses ^! good ?+s1 & :5 ,,man fir/ discov]s h[ to make any?+1 t ?+ :i* he makes is good4 ,= example3 ?is book is pr9t$ ^u "o ( ! fir/ iron presses to be made 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,! press is a good press2 x w\ld be difficult to make a press :i* w\ld enable ! pr9t] to pr9t m cle>ly4 ,! wood5 press 0 a good press ! pr9t+ f x has n be5 surpass$4 ,fur!r1 ?is quality ( goodness ( a fir/ discov]y may p]si/ = _m ye>s4 ,b !re is a t5d5cy to avoid ,quality ,/reet4 ,we are *oos+ r ,quantity ,/reet ! ,bye pa?s ( ,facility ,clev]ness2 we h become accu/om$ to ! hum ( ! ,"t ,lab\r sav+ ma*9]y2 & we are 9 dang] ( =gett+ ! use ( good ?+s3 inde$ ! tradition practice ( goodness has be5 lo/ 9 a consid]able numb] ( trades4 ,= in/ance3 a c>p5t] has become s us$ to buy+ 8 timb] 9 planks f a y>d t he has ne>ly =gott5 its relation to ! tree4 ,! man :o works to designs conceiv$ by somebody else ) wood sawn by ano!r man's ma*9e mu/ be depriv$ ( ! natural /r5g? ( ! tree4 ,& ?is is n an exception to1 b an example (1 ! way we are *oos+ to d ?+s4 ,x is impossible to buy l95 z good z t normally us$ by e tradesman 9 ! ,,xviii c5tury4 ,x is ne>ly impossible to get clo?1 pap]1 bread1 be]1 bacon & lea!r equal to t 9 common use #aej ye>s ago4 ,,9 ,,view ,,( ,,! ,,beg9n+ x is desirable to record :at /ill survives ( ! traditions ( mak+ good ?+s2 & ,i %all endeav\r to publi% ! in/ructions advice ( m5 wom5 :o /ill foll[ ^! good traditions4 ,d\glas ,pepl]4 ,,cont5ts ,,page ,i4 ,,introduction #a ,,ii4 ,,wool1 ,,silk1 ,,cotton ,,& ,,l95 #aa ,,iii4 ,,mordants #bd ,,iv4 ,,briti% ,,dye ,,plants #cg ,v4 ,,! ,,li*5 ,,dyes #de ,,vi4 ,,blue #fc ,,vii4 ,,r$ #hg ,,viii4 ,,yell[ #ajg ,,ix4 ,,br[n ,,& ,,black #abb ,x4 ,,gre5 #acc ,,*apt] ,i4 ,dye+ has almo/ ceas$ to exi/ z a traditional art4 ,9 ?is #bj? c5tury ! importance ( col\r 9 our lives seems to be realiz$ less & less4 ,x has be5 =gott5 t /rong & beautiful col\r1 su* z us$ to ab\nd 9 all e day ?+s1 is an ess5tial to ! full joy ( life4 ,a sort ( fe> or n]v\sness ( bright col\r is "o ( ! features ( our age1 x is especially evid5t 9 ! ?+s we we>4 ,!re is un=tunately good reason = x4 ,we fe> bright col\r because our mod]n col\rs are bad1 & !y are bad because ! tradition ( dye+ has be5 brok54 ,! *emi/ has invad$ ! doma9 ( ! dy]1 driv5 him out & tak5 ov] 8 bus9ess1 ) ! result t ugly col\r has become ! rule = ! fir/ "t 9 ! hi/ory ( mank9d4 ,x is n t *emi/s nev] produce beautiful col\r4 ,dye+ z a *emical sci5ce has n be5 /udi$ = ! la/ #ej ye>s )\t produc+ good results4 ,b !re is ?is great diff]5ce betwe5 ! *emical comm]cial dyes & ! traditional dyes--t ) ! comm]cial dyes x is v easy to produce ugly col\rs1 ! beautiful col\r is r>e2 b ) traditional dyes x is difficult to make an ugly col\r1 & good col\r is ! rule4 ,x 0 9 #ahef t mauve 0 produc$ f coal t> by an ,engli% *emi/1 & ?is began a new era 9 dye+4 ,! discov]y 0 develop$ 9 ,g]many1 & ! result 0 ! creation ( a sci5ce ( *emical col\r+4 ,! advantages ( ! new col\rs 7 ease & simplicity ( use1 g5]al reliability ) reg>d to /r5g? & composition1 & c]ta9ty 9 reproduc+ ! same col\r aga9 )\t tr\ble4 ,) reg>d to fa/ness1 to light & to wa%+ !re is practically little diff]5ce betwe5 ! two4 ,x is m ! me?od by :i* !y are dy$ & n ! dye itself 7al?\gh ( c\rse 9 "s cases ?is is n s7 t det]m9es _! fa/ness4 ,! natural dyes are m tr\ble & take long] "t to prep>e4 ,*emical col\rs c be dy$ n[ z fa/ z ! natural col\rs1 al?\gh at fir/ ?is c\ld n be done4 ,"s ( ! *emical col\rs z well z ! natural1 are n fa/ to light & wa%+1 & ought nev] to be us$2 b !re are natural col\rs1 su* z madd]1 "s ( ! li*5s1 cate*u etc41 :i* are z fa/ z any *emical dye1 if n m s4 ,,b !re is ?is g5]al diff]5ce betwe5 ! results ( ! two me?ods1--t :5 a *emical col\r fades x becomes a diff]5t col\r & g5]ally a bad "o3 :5 a natural col\r fades1 x becomes a light] tone ( ! same col\r4 ,s9ce ! middle ( ! #ai? c5tury our col\r s5se has be5 gett+ rude %ocks4 ,at fir/ came ! hide\s anil9e col\rs1 crude & ugly1 & p said1 ,h[ wond]ful1 are !y really made out ( coal6 ,!y 7 told to l !m & !y did1 & admir$ ! *emi/s :o made !m4 ,!n came m discov]ies1 & col\r began to g to ! opposite extreme1 & ! fa%ion 0 muddy indet]m9ate col\rs--'art' col\rs z !y 7 call$1 j z remote f pure good col\r+ 9 "o direction z ! e>ly anil9e col\rs 7 9 ! o!r4 ,we are n[ em]g+ f ! mud col\rs1 z ,i w\ld call !m1 to ! p]iod ( ! brilliant col\r+ ( ! ,futuri/4 ,"h we h sci5tific col\r+ us$ ) real skill4 ,! ,futuri/ has p]haps indicat$ a possible way 9 :i* *emical col\rs may be us$ by ! arti/ & is tea*+ p ! value ( simple comb9ations ( brilliant col\r4 ,& yet d !y satisfy ! arti/8 ,are !y z beautiful z ! col\rs 9 a ,p]sian ,khelim8 ,is !re a blue 9 ! _w z f9e z ! blue 9 a ,bokh>a rug1 or a r$ to t\* ! r$ ( a ,p]sian brocade or ,indian silk8--! new fre% col\rs z !y come out ( ! dy]'s vat1 n z !y are aft] ye>s ( we> & te>1 ?\gh t is beautiful en\gh4 ,& yet !y are n m beautiful ?an ! col\rs once made by dy]s 9 ,engl&4 ,!y are z brilliant z ! *emical col\rs1 b !y are n h>d & unsympa!tic & correct4 ,!y are alive & v>i$1 hold+ ! light z no *emical col\r c hold x2 & !y are beautiful f _! bir? to _! old age1 :5 !y mell[1 "o ) ! o!r1 into a bl5d ( ri*ness t has nev] yet be5 got by ! *emical dy] & nev] w be4 ,p]haps x is ! sci5tific me?od t kills ! imag9ation4 ,deal+ ) exactly kn[n quantities1 & /riv+ = precise uni=mity1 ! *emi/ has no use = ! accid5ts & irregul>ities :i* ! arti/'s imag9ation seizes & :i* ! traditional work] well knew h[ to use4 ,william ,morris says t all degradation ( art veils itself 9 ! semblance ( an intellectual advance1 & no?+ is tru] ?an ?is ) reg>d to ! art ( dye+4 ,z a tradition x is practically dead 9 ,brita91 & is ?reat5$ ) gradual ext9ction all ov] ! _w4 ,x w n recov] itself z an art till individual arti/s set !mselves to make beautiful col\rs aga91 & ignore ! col\r made = !m by comm]ce & ! *emi/s4 ,h&icraft work]s %\ld make _! own col\rs4 ,lea!r work]s %\ld dye _! own lea!r1 ! embroid]]s _! own silks & wools1 ! basket mak]s _! own mat]ials1 ! weav]s & sp9n]s _! own flax1 cotton & wool2 & until !y d ?is ! be/ "w w n be done4 ,?is is ! necessity = ! pres5t4 ,if any craft work] wants s\nd col\r he mu/ make x = himself1 he _c get x done = him by arti/s4 ,! hope = ! future is t dye+ may be re9/at$ z a craft1 co-op]at+ ) ! o!r crafts & practic$ by craftsm54 ,! way to beauty is n by ! broad & easy road2 x is along difficult & adv5tur\s pa?s4 ,e piece ( craft "w %\ld be an adv5ture4 ,x _c be an adv5ture if comm]ce /eps 9 & says ,i w dye all y\r y>n = y2 y w always !n be able to mat* y\r col\r aga92 !re ne$ be no v>iation2 e ske9 %all be z all ! o!rs2 y c ord] s _m p\nds ( su* a numb] & y c get x by return ( po/2 & y c h six or sev5 hundr$ %ades to *oose f4 ,x is all s easy1 s tempt+ly easy1--b h[ ,,dull6 ! deadly y>ds ( /uff all s ev5 & s exactly dy$2 s p]fect t ! comm]ce-ridd5 p]son says1 ?is is almo/ z good z ! /uff y c buy 9 a %op1 x is z p]fect z ma*9e made /uff4 ,:at w\ld h be5 ! use ( all ?is to ! great col\ri/s ( ! _w1 ! anci5t ,egyptians1 ! m$ival ,italians or ! great ,ori5tal dy]s8 ,!y c\ld n get six hundr$ %ades to ord]2 six 0 m l _! range1 !y did n ne$ m1 & 9 ^? !y c\ld n comm& precise uni=mity4 ,!y knew t ! slight v>iations caus$ by natural human me?ods add to ! beauty & int]e/ ( a ?+1 & t a few good col\rs are wor? any numb] ( indiff]5t ones4 ,x is q c]ta9 t a great _m ( ! h&icrafts t h dep5d$ ^u comm]cial dyes w\ld produce inf9itely bett] "w if !y dy$ _! raw mat]ial !mselves4 ,x may be object$ t life is n long en\gh2 b ! h&icrafts are out to create m life1 n out to produce quantity nor to save "t4 ,! aim ( comm]ce is mat]ial ga92 ! aim ( ! crafts is to make life1 & no tr\ble mu/ be sp>$ to rea* t end4 ,x mu/ always be be=e ! craft work]4 ,dye+ is an art2 ! mom5t sci5ce dom9ates x1 x is an art no long]1 & ! craftsman mu/ g back to ! "t be=e sci5ce t\*$ x1 & beg9 all ov] aga94 ,! tradition is ne>ly lo/ 9 ,engl&4 ,x l+]s 9 a few places 9 ,scotl& & ,irel&4 ,9 ,norway1 ,russia1 ,c5tral ,asia1 ,india & o!r places :]e sci5ce has n ent]$ too mu* into ! life ( ! p1 x is /ill practic$4 ,is dye+ z a tradition to be doom$1 z traditional weav+ 0 doom$8 ,yes1 unless x be consci\sly /udi$ aga9 & remade into an art4 ,?is book is int5d$ = ! use ( craftsm5 & o!rs :o are try+ to dye _! mat]ials by h& & on a small scale4 ,in=mation & recipes1 useful to su* work]s1 are to be f\nd 9 books & pamphlets dat+ onw>ds f ! #ag? c5tury1 & 9 ?is book ,i h drawn l>gely ^u ^! s\rces ( dye+ k1 z well z ^u ! traditions /ill foll[$ by pres5t work]s1 & ^u ! exp]i5ce ( my own "w4 ,all dye+ recipes1 h[ev]1 %\ld guide r ?an rule ! work]2 !y are bett] appli$ ) imag9ation & exp]i5ce ?an ) ! slavi%ness ( m9ute imitation4 ,e dy] %\ld keep a record ( 8 exp]im5ts1 = ?is w become invaluable z x gr[s1 & z "o ?+ is le>nt f ano!r4 ,! ideal way ( work+ is n by a too rigid accuracy nor by loose guess-"w1 b by ! way :i* practice has prov$ be/3 nev]!less1 "s ( ! greate/ dy]s h done _! "w by rule-(-?umb me?ods j z o!rs h c]ta9ly work$ ) sy/ematic exactness4 ,! dy]1 l any o!r arti/1 is free to f9d 8 own me?ods1 subject to ! requirem5ts ( good & p]man5t craftsman%ip1 provid$ t he a*ieves ! effects at :i* he aims4 ,b x is supremely important t he %\ld aim at ! "r effects2 or1 r1 at ! use ( ! "r mat]ials1 = if ^! are "r ! effects may safely be left to take c>e ( !mselves4 ,9 ord] to develop ! ta/e & temp]am5t ( a good col\ri/1 x is necess>y to use good col\r & to live ) good col\r4 ,9 ?is book ,i attempt to %[ :]e good col\r c be obta9$4 ,b "o may beg9 to live ) good col\r :i* has be5 f\nd by o!rs4 ,?is "p ( ! dy]'s education is n prohibitively co/ly1 ev5 9 ^! days ( inf]ior col\r4 ,indian & ,p]sian embroid]ies are /ill to be obta9$1 ?\gh c>e mu/ be tak5 9 _! selection1 z mo/ mod]n pieces are dy$ ) *emical dyes & are v ugly4 ,p]sian ,khelim rugs are *eap & (t5 ( ! mo/ beautiful col\rs4 ,russian embroid]ies & wov5 /uffs1 bo? old & new1 are obta9able1 & are good 9 col\r1 z are mo/ ( ! embroid]ies & weav+s ( ,ea/]n ,europe & ! ,ea/4 ,:at are popul>ly kn[n z c(fee t[els are (t5 embroid]$ 9 ! f9e/ col\r$ silks4 ,bokh>a rugs & embroid]ies are /ill to be pur*as$1 & _m ( ! weav+s ( ! f> ,ea/1 al?\gh1 alas1 v few ( ! mod]n ones are ( good col\r4 ,i w\ld say to dy]s1 d n be satisfi$ ) see+ beautiful col\r$ /uffs 9 museums4 ,x is possible /ill to get !m1 & to live ) a piece ( good col\r is ( mu* m use ?an occasional h\rs sp5t 9 museums4 ,,*apt] ,,ii4 ,,wool ,,silk ,,cotton ,,l95 ,v>i\s k9ds ( wool4 ,wool f goats4 ,fleeces4 ,wool dye+4 ,sc\r+ ( wool4 ,silk1 prep>ation = dye+4 ,cotton1 cleans+ & gall+ (4 ,indian me?ods ( prep>+ cotton & l95 = dye+4 ,,bancr(t on ! prep>+ ( cotton & l95 = dye+4 ,l954 ,on wat] = dye+4 ,,on ,,wool4--,! quality ( wool v>ies consid]ably4 ,briti% wools are ( v>i\s k9ds3-- ,highl&1 ,wel% & ,iri% wools are f small %eep1 n f> remov$ f ! wild /ate1 ) irregul> %ort /apl$ fleeces4 ,=e/ or ,m\nta9 %eep 7,h]dwick1 ,exmoor1 ,blackfac$1 ,lime/one1 ,*eviot7 h bett] wool1 especially ! ,*eviot :i* is v ?ick good = mill+4 ,anci5t ,upl&1 su* z ,s\? ,d[n1 are small] %eep ?an ! la/ nam$1 b ! wool is s(t] & f9]4 ,long ,wooll$ %eep 7,l9colns1 ,leice/]7 ) long /aple wool 7record l5g?1 #cf 947 & ! fleeces weigh+ up to #ab lbs4 ,! ,leice/] fleece is s(t]1 f9] & bett] ?an ! ,l9coln4 ,to ! end ( ! #ah? c5tury ,spani% wool 0 ! f9e/ & be/ wool 9 ! _w4 ,spani% %eep h s9ce be5 introduc$ into v>i\s c\ntries1 su* z ,saxony1 ,au/ralia1 ,cape ,colony1 ,new ,zeal&1 & "s ( ! be/ wools n[ come f ! colonies4 ,alpaca1 ,vicuna & ,llama wools are obta9$ f diff]5t species ( ,s\? ,am]ican goats4 ,mohair is obta9$ f ! ,angora goat ( ,asia ,m9or4 ,ka%mir wool is got f ! ,?ibetan goat4 ,camel hair is ! s(t "u wool ( ! camel1 :i* is %$ annually4 ,x is ( a br[n col\r4 ,! col\r ( wool v>ies f :ite to a v d>k br[n black1 ) all %ades ( fawn1 grey & br[n 9 betwe54 ,! natural col\rs are n absolutely fa/ to light b t5d to blea* slightly ) ! sun4 ,fleeces are ( v>i\s k9ds1 ! pr9cipal be+3 ,lambs1 #c to #f mon?s gr[?1 ! f9e/1 s(te/ & mo/ ela/ic ( wool4 ,hogs & ,tegs3 ! fir/ %e>+ ( %eep t h n be5 %orn z lambs4 ,we!rs3 all clips succe$+ ! fir/ %e>+4 ,wool comes into ! m>ket 9 ! foll[+ condition4 #a7 ,9 ! grease1 n hav+ be5 wa%$ & conta9+ all impurities4 #b7 ,wa%$1 ) "s ( ! grease remov$ & fairly clean4 #c7 ,sc\r$1 ?or\ghly clean$ all grease remov$4 ,,on ,,wool ,,dye+4--,!re are f\r pr9cipal me?ods ( dye+ wool4 #a/4--,! wool is boil$ fir/ ) ! mordant & !n 9 a fre% ba? ) ! dye4 ,?is me?od ( dye+ is ! mo/ satisfactory & gives bright] & fa/] col\rs ?an ! o!r me?ods4 ,x is n necess>y to ?r[ away ! solution aft] ! mordant+ has be5 done1 b x c be repl5i%$ = a fre% lot ( wool2 a sep>ate ba? is us$ = ! dye4 #bnd4--,! wool is boil$ fir/ ) ! dye &1 :5 x has absorb$ z mu* ( ! col\r z possible1 ! mordant is add$ to ! same ba?1 ?us fix+ ! col\r4 ,?is is call$ ! /uff+ & sadd5+ me?od2 ! /uff+ be+ ! boil+ ( ! wool ) ! dye /uff & ! sadd5+ ! fix+ ! col\r by ! mordant4 ,a sep>ate ba? c be us$ = ea* ( ^! processes1 9 :i* case ea* ba? c be repl5i%$ & us$ aga9 = a fre% lot ( wool4 #crd4--,! wool is boil$ ) ! mordant & dye 9 ! same ba? toge!r4 ,! col\r1 z a rule1 is n s fa/ good z ) a sep>ate ba?1 ?\gh ) "s dyes a bright] col\r is obta9$4 #d?4--,! wool is mordant$1 !n dy$1 !n mordant$ aga9 7sadd5$74 ,?is me?od is adopt$ to ensure an extremely fa/ col\r4 ,! mordant 9 ?is case %\ld be us$ r sp>+ly4 ,wool c be dy$ ei!r 9 ! fleece1 9 ! y>n or 9 ! wov5 clo?4 ,raw wool always conta9s a c]ta9 am\nt ( natural grease4 ,?is %\ld n be wa%$ out until x is ready = dye+1 z ! grease keeps ! mo? out to a consid]able ext5t4 ,h& spun wool is always spun 9 ! oil to facilitate sp9n+4 ,all grease & oil mu/ be sc\r$ out be=e dye+ is begun1 & ?is mu/ be done v ?or\ghly or ! wool w take ! col\r unev5ly4 ,! pr9cipal det]g5t kn[n f e>lie/ times is /ale ur9e4 ,9 ! ,highl&s ?is is us$ 9 ! proportion ( #a "p to #e ( wat]4 ,x is ! be/ sc\r+ ag5t & leaves ! wool s(t & ela/ic4 ,c>bonate ( soda is also us$4 ,b a good pure soap is ! mo/ conv5i5t sc\r+ ag5t4 ,a suds %\ld be made ) hot wat]1 & ! wool1 :i* has be5 soak$ 9 w>m wat] previ\sly1 %\ld be well squeez$ & work$ 9 ! suds till all ! grease is remov$4 ,?is %\ld be done two or ?ree times if ne$$1 & !n ! wool r9s$ out ?or\ghly 9 clean wat]4 ,soda is apt to make ! wool h>% & %\ld be avoid$4 ,a little ,ammonia add$ to ! wa%+ wat] helps4 ,to prev5t y>n felt+ :5 x is sc\r$1 x %\ld be fir/ /eep$ 9 hot wat] & left to cool4 ,s(t soap is be/ = long f9e wool4 ,ur9e = %ort wools2 or ur9e & soda a%4 ,ano!r way ( cleans+ wool4 ,make a hot ba? ( #d p>ts wat] & #a "p ur9e1 ent] wool1 teas+ x & op5+ x out to admit ! full action ( ! liquid4 ,aft] #bj m9utes imm]sion1 remove & all[ to dra94 ,!n r9se 9 cle> runn+ wat] & all[ to dry4 ,use no soap4 ,! liquid c be us$ aga94 ,! wool (t5 loses "o fif? ( its weight 9 ! process ( wa%+4 ,to s(t5 y>n--,9 a gallon ( hot wat] dissolve half p\nd ( common soda1 !n add half-p9t ( sweet oil & /ir well4 ,a little ( ?is add$ to ! wa%+ wat]1 = "s col\rs1 w s(t5 ! y>n4 ,to blea* wool--,! wool is susp5d$ 9 a clos$ room on hoops1 & "u ! wool *af+ di%es are plac$ ) light$ coals on :i* p[d]$ sulphur is ca/4 ,! room door is aft]w>ds %ut s t ! smoke may be ! long] reta9$ to act on ! wool1 :i* is to rema9 until x is entirely :it5$4 ,,on ,,silk4--,!re are two k9ds ( silk1 #a7 raw silk 7reel$ silk1 ?r[n silk1 drawn silk71 & #b7 wa/e silk or spun silk4 ,raw silk is t directly tak5 f ! cocoons4 ,wa/e silk is ! silk f cocoons t are damag$ 9 "s way s t !y _c be reel$ (f direct4 ,!y are !re=e c>d$ & spun1 l wool or cotton4 ,silk 9 ! raw /ate is cov]$ ) a silk gum :i* mu/ be boil$ (f be=e dye+ is begun4 ,x is ti$ up 9 canvas bags & boil$ up 9 a /rong solution ( soap = ?ree or f\r h\rs until all ! gum is boil$ (f4 ,if x is yell[ gum1 ! silk is wr\ght fir/ 9 a solution ( s(t soap at a temp]ature j bel[ boil+ po9t = ab\t an h\r1 !n put into bags & boil$4 ,aft] boil+1 ! soap is well wa%$ out4 ,g5]ally speak+1 ! aff9ity ( silk = dyes is simil> b weak] 9 "* to t ( wool4 ,! g5]al me?od = dye+ is ! same z = wool1 except t 9 mo/ cases l[] temp]atures are us$ 9 ! mordant+4 ,9 "s cases1 soak+ 9 a cold conc5trat$ solution ( ! mordant is suffici5t4 ,! dye+ ( "s col\rs is also at a l[ temp]ature4 ,( ! prep>ation ( raw silk4 ,= e p\nd ( raw silk1 take lb4 ( soap2 fir/ put ! silk into a bag1 or s make x up t tangl+ may be prev5t$1 !n let x boil toge!r = #b h\rs1 aft] :i* x mu/ be v well cleans$1 & s x is ready to dye all sorts ( col\rs1 be+ fir/ allom$4#a ,h[ ! boil$ silk mu/ be allom$4 ,9 proportion to e p\nd ( silk1 take lb4 ( ,allom1 melt 9 a little kettle or skillet1 & :5 melt$1 ?r[ x 9 to a tub ( wat]1 into :i* put ! silk to /eep1 :]e let x lie a :ole night4#a ,to s(t5 silk aft] dye+4 ,into a l>ge vessel ne>ly full ( wat]1 a solution ( soap is p\r$1 9 ! proportion ( f #d to #e lbs4 ( soap = e #aaj lbs4 ( silk4 ,! solution ( soap is /ra9$ ?r\gh a clo? into ! wat] & well mix$4 ,! silk is !n introduc$ left = ab\t qu>t] ( an h\r aft] :i* x is wrung out & dri$4 ,,on ,,cotton4--,cotton is ! d[n surr\nd+ ! se$s 9 pods ( c]ta9 %rubs & trees gr[+ 9 tropical & semi-tropical c\ntries4 ,x 0 fir/ introduc$ into ,europe by ! ,s>ac5s & 0 manufactur$ into clo? 9 ,spa9 9 ! e>ly #ac? c5tury4 ,cotton clo? 0 made 9 ,engl& 9 ! e>ly #ag? c5tury4 ,! col\r ( cotton v>ies f deep yell[ to :ite4 ,! fibre diff]s 9 l5g?1 ! long /apl$ be+ ! mo/ valu$4 ,cotton is difficult to dye & requires a special prep>ation4 ,x is fir/ boil$ ) wat] till ?or\ghly s(t5$ & wett$4 ,!n alum$ 9 ! proportion ( #a ( alum to #d ( ! cotton 7see page #bh74 ,x is !n gall$4 ,! gall+ is done ) diff]5t proportions ( gall-nuts & o!r a/r+5ts 7su* z tannic acid1 myrobalams1 suma*1 cate*u7 accord+ to ! quality ( ! a/r+5ts & ! effect wi%$ to be obta9$4 ,if gall-nuts are us$ !y are bruis$1 !n boil$ = ab\t two h\rs 9 a quantity ( wat]4 ,! ba? is !n all[$ to cool till ! h& c be> x4 ,! cotton is work$ well 9 ?is solution & !n left = #bd h\rs4 ,aft] :i* x is wrung out & dri$4 ,cotton is sometimes boil$ 9 s\r wat] 9 ord] to cleanse x3 sometimes an alkal9e ley is us$3 ! cotton mu/ be boil$ 9 x = #b h\rs1 !n wrung out & r9s$ 9 clean wat] & dri$4 ,cotton dye+ has be5 c>ri$ on = c5turies 9 ! ,ea/4 ,9 ,india be=e a clo? is ready to be dy$ ) a fa/ col\r1 x has g5]ally to und]go a prelim9>y process ( prep>ation m or less elaborate1 ! diff]5t /ages ( :i* may be recit$ z wa%+1 blea*+1 dung+1 gall+1 alum+1 or mordant+1 & aga9 wa%+4 7,a ,monograph on dyes & dye+ 9 ! ,bombay ,presid5cy1 by ,c4 ,g4 ,h4 ,fawcett1 #ahif47 ,x is wa%$ fir/ ( all to remove all impurities1 :e!r ^? naturally belong+ to ! fibre or ^? purposely introduc$ dur+ ! processes ( sp9n+ & weav+4 ,! blea*+ removes grease1 etc4 ,?is is done 9 ,india by ! sun1 air & moi/ure4 ,! dung+ process consi/s ( pass+ ! cotton ?r\gh a hot solution ( c[ dung1 :i* r5d]s ! dye fa/4 ,?is is sometimes replac$ by sub/itutes1 su* z ! phosphates ( soda & lime1 silicates ( soda1 etc4 ,! next op]ation ( gall+ is an important /ep 9 ! ,indian process ( dye+4 ,x is appli$ to cotton1 l95 & silk4 ,vegetable infusions conta9+ tann9 are appli$ to ! clo?4 ,^? mo/ly us$ are myrobalams1 pomegranate r9d1 tam>isk galls1 & pi/a*io galls4 ,! clo? is !n alum$1 wa%$1 & is !n ready to be dy$4 ,bancr(t says3--,! fibres ( l95 or cotton :5 spun or wov5 are prep>$ = ! dy] by be+ fir/ boil$ 9 wat] ) a suitable proportion ( pota% 7:i* = l95 %\ld be made cau/ic1 9 ord] t x may act m /rongly ^u ! oily & res9\s matt]s ab\nd+ 9 flax7 & aft]w>ds blea*$ by exposure ^u ! grass to sun & air4 ,b z ?is op]ation commonly leaves a portion ( e>?y matt] 9 ! l95 or cotton1 x ought to be soak$ or /eep$ 9 wat] s\r$ by sulphuric acid1 to dissolve & remove ?is e>?y matt]1 tak+ c>e aft]w>ds to wa% or r9se (f ! acid4 ,a few ( ! natural dye /uffs are capable ( dye+ cotton direct1 )\t a mordant1 su* z ,turm]ic1 ,b>b]ry b>k1 saffl[]1 annatto4 ,= o!r dyes cotton has a special attraction1 su* z cate*u1 fu/ic1 logwood4 ,,on ,,l954--,l95 is flax1 d]iv$ f ! decompos$ /alks ( a plant ( ! g5us ( ,l9um4 ,x gr[s *iefly 9 ,russia1 ,belgium1 ,france1 ,holl&1 & ,irel&4 ,! plants aft] be+ ga!r$ are subject$ to a process call$ rett+1 :i* sep>ates ! fibre f ! decay+ "p ( ! plant4 ,9 ,irel& & ,russia ?is is usually done 9 /agnant wat]1 produc+ a d>k col\r$ flax4 ,9 ,belgium1 ,holl& & ,france1 rett+ is c>ri$ out 9 runn+ wat]1 & ! result+ flax is a light] col\r4 ,l95 is m difficult to dye ?an cotton1 probably on acc\nt ( ! h>d nature ( ! fibre4 ,! same processes are us$ = dye+ l95 z = cotton4 ,l95 ?read is dy$ 9 ! same mann] z cotton1 only1 t previ\s to its be+ purg$ l cotton ?read1 x is usual to boil x 9 wat]1 add+ = e p\nd ( ?read a qu>t] p\nd ( *opp$ sorrel4 ,oil ( vitriol is1 h[ev]1 m conv5i5t & bett] ?an sorrel4--,d',apligny4 ,to ,blea* ,l954--7,= #ac to #ae y>ds l957 ,boil lb4 soap & lb4 soda 9 a gallon ( wat]4 ,put x 9 a copp] & fill up ) wat]1 leav+ room = ! l95 to be put 94 ,put 9 ! l95 & br+ to ! boil4 ,boil = #b h\rs1 keep+ x "u ! wat] & cov]$4 ,/ir occasionally4 ,!n spread out on ! grass = #c days1 wat]+ x :5 x gets dry4 ,repeat ?is boil+ & grass+ = #c weeks4 ,y\r l95 is !n pure :ite4 ,to blea* l95 a cream col\r4--,boil lb4 soap & lb4 soda 9 a gallon ( wat]4 ,fill copp] up ) wat] & put 9 l954 ,boil = #b h\rs4 ,repeat ?is once a day = #d days4 ,! l95 %\ld n be wrung out b kept 9 ! wat] till ready to be put into ! fre% ba?4 ,,on ,,wat]4--,a con/ant supply ( clean s(t wat] is a necessity = ! dy]4 ,ra9 wat] %\ld be collect$ z mu* z possible1 z ?is is ! be/ wat] to use4 ,! dye h\se %\ld be by a riv] or /ream1 s t ! dy] c wa% ) a cont9u\s supply4 ,spr+ & well wat] is z a rule h>d1 & %\ld be avoid$4 ,9 wa%+1 z well z 9 dye+1 h>d wat] is altoge!r injuri\s = wool4 ,x ru9s ! brilliancy ( col\r1 & prev5ts ! dye+ ( "s col\rs4 ,tempor>y h>dness c be ov]come by boil+ ! wat] 7#bj to #cj m9utes7 be=e us+4 ,an old me?od ( purify+ wat]1 :i* is /ill us$ by "s silk & wool sc\r]s1 is to boil ! wat] ) a little soap1 skimm+ (f ! surface z x boils4 ,9 _m cases x is suffici5t to add a little acetic acid to ! wat]4 ,b]?ollet says1--,:5ev]1 !re=e1 a wat] is limpid1 :5 its fl[ is con/ant1 :5 x has no s5sible ta/e1 & dissolves soap well1 x may be reg>d$ z v prop] = dye+4 ,he also goes on to say t = correct+ wat] t is bad1 s\r wat] is pr9cipally us$1 t is1 wat] 9 :i* bran has be5 f]m5t$4 ,,footnote3 #a ,f a dye book ( #agje4 ,,*apt] ,,iii4 ,,mordants ,def9ition ( mordant4 ,! pr9cipal mordants4 ,! mordant+ ( silk & wool4 ,( l95 & cotton4 ,a/r+5ts = cotton4 ,alum4 ,v>i\s examples ( us+ alum = wool1 silk1 cotton & l954 ,iron4 ,examples ( iron mordants4 ,t94 ,examples ( t9 mordants4 ,*rome4 ,examples ( *rome mordants4 ,copp]4 ,examples ( copp] mordants4 ,g5]al obs]vations4 ,tann9 & ! gall+ ( cotton & l954 ,examples ( v>i\s gall+ processes4 ,,mordants4--,dyes are divid$ into two classes4 ,fir/1 ! sub/antive dyes1 :i* give _! col\r directly to ! mat]ial ) :i* !y are boil$3 & second1 ! adjective dyes1 z !y are sometimes call$4 ,^! latt] include ! great] numb] ( dyes & require ! use ( a mordant to br+ out _! col\r4 ,!re are ?us two processes conc]n$ ) ! dye+ ( mo/ col\rs2 ! fir/ is mordant+ & ! second is ! col\r+ or actual dye+4 ,! mordant+ prep>es ! /uff to receive ! dye--7mord]e1 to bite47 ,! e>ly ,fr5* dy]s ?\ght t a mordant _h ! effect ( op5+ ! pores ( ! fibres1 s t ! dye c\ld m easily ent]2 b accord+ to ,hummel & lat] dy]s ! action ( ! mordant is purely *emical2 & he gives a def9ition ( a mordant z t body1 :atev] x may be1 :i* is fix$ on ! fibre 9 comb9ation ) any giv5 col\r+ matt]4 ,! mordant is fir/ precipitat$ on to ! fibre & comb9es ) ! col\r+ matt] 9 ! subsequ5t dye ba?4 ,b1 :e!r ! action is *emical or m]ely physical1 ! fact rema9s t all adjective dyes ne$ ?is prep>ation ( ! fibre be=e !y w fix !mselves on x4 ,! use ( a mordant1 ?\gh n a necessity1 is sometimes an advantage :5 us+ sub/antive dyes4 ,9 e>ly days ! leaves & roots ( c]ta9 plants 7 us$4 ,?is is ! case ev5 n[ 9 ,india & o!r p>ts :]e primitive dye+ me?ods are /ill c>ri$ on4 ,alum has be5 kn[n = c5turies 9 ,europe4 ,iron & t9 fil+s h also be5 us$4 ,alum & copp]as h be5 kn[n 9 ! ,highl&s = long ages4 ,/ale ur9e is also mu* us$ 9 ,scotl& & ,irel&1 b p]haps m z a cle>+ ag5t ?an z an actual mordant4 ,silk & wool require v mu* ! same prep>ation except t 9 ! case ( silk high temp]atures %\ld be avoid$4 ,wool is g5]ally boil$ 9 a weak solution ( :atev] mordant is us$4 ,) silk1 z a rule1 x is bett] to use a cold solution1 or a solution at a temp]ature bel[ boil+ po9t4 ,cotton & l95 are m difficult to dye ?an wool or silk4 ,_! fibre is n s por\s & w n hold ! dye /uff )\t a m complicat$ prep>ation4 ,! usual me?od ( prep>+ l95 or cotton is to boil x fir/ ) "s a/r+5t4 ,! use ( a/r+5ts 9 dye+ dep5ds ^u ! tannic acid !y conta94 ,9 comb9ation ) ord9>y mordants1 tannic acid aids ! attraction ( ! col\r+ matt] to ! fibre & adds brilliancy to ! col\rs4 ,! a/r+5ts mo/ly us$ are tannic acid1 gall nuts1 suma* & myrobalams4 ,cotton has a natural attraction = tannic acid1 s t :5 once /eep$ 9 its solution x is n easily remov$ by wa%+4 ,,alum4 7,alum9ium sulphate47--,?is is ! mo/ g5]ally us$ ( all ! mordants1 & has be5 kn[n z su* f e>ly times 9 _m p>ts ( ! _w4 ,= mo/ col\rs a c]ta9 proportion ( cream ( t>t> %\ld be add$ to ! alum ba? z x helps to bright5 ! ultimate col\r4 ,! usual am\nt ( alum us$ is a qu>t] ( a p\nd to e p\nd ( wool4 ,z a rule1 less mordant is ne$$ = light col\rs ?an = d>k4 ,an excess ( alum is apt to make ! wool /icky4 ,= dye+ wor/$ & /uffs yell[1 y make use ( ! usual prep>ation1 viz41 ( t>t> & alum4 ,y all[ f\r ounces ( alum to e p\nd ( wool1 or tw5ty-five p\nds to e hundr$4 ,) reg>d to ! t>t>1 "o ounce to e p\nd is suffici5t = yell[1 ?\gh x requires two = r$4--,hellot4 ,! usual l5g? ( "t = boil+ ) alum is f an h\r to #a h\r2 b "s dy]s give z mu* z #b h\rs4 ,v>i\s examples ( mordant+ ) alum4-- ,= silk4 ,wet out ! silk ?or\ghly ) wat] & wr+ out4 ,!n "w x ab\t a little 9 a /rong solution ( alum1 previ\sly dissolv$ 9 hot wat]1 & /eep = sev]al h\rs 7or ov] night74 ,!n wa% well4 ,x %\ld n be all[$ to dry be=e dye+4 ,silks are always alum$ 9 ! cold1 because :5 !y are alum$ 9 a hot ba?1 !y are apt to lose a portion ( _! lu/re4 ,b]?ollet4 ,= wool4 lb4 ( ,alum & #a oz4 ,cream ( t>t> = e p\nd ( wool4 ,?is is dissolv$ & :5 ! wat] is w>m ! wool is ent]$4 ,raise to boil+ po9t & boil = "o h\r4 ,! ba? is !n tak5 (f ! fire & all[$ to cool ov] night4 ,! wool is !n wrung out 7n wa%$7 & put away 9 a l95 bag 9 cool place = f\r or five days1 :5 x is ready = dye+4 ,= cotton & l954 ,aft] boil+ 9 wat] 7"s use a s\r wat]1 "s an alkal9e ley7 ! cotton is put into ! alum ba?1 lb4 ( ,alum to #a lb4 ( cotton4 ,! alum is dissolv$ 9 hot wat] ) soda 9 ! proportion ( #a "p soda to #af ( alum4 7,"s add a small quantity ( t>t> & ars5ic74 ,! cotton is well work$ 9 ?is solution & left #bd h\rs4 ,x is !n wa%$1 & aft]w>ds gall$4 ,= l954 lb4 alum = e p\nd ( l954 ,boil = #b h\rs & imm$iately put into ! dye ba?4 ,= wool4 #f to #h p] c5t4 ( alum & #e to #g p] c5t4 ( t>t> ( ! weight ( wool4 ,,iron4 7,f]r\s ,sulphate1 copp]as1 gre5 vitriol7 ,iron is "o ( ! olde/ mordants kn[n & is l>gely us$ 9 wool & cotton dye+4 ,x is almo/ z important z alum4 ,) wool x %\ld be us$ 9 comb9ation ) cream ( t>t>4 ,! temp]ature ( ! mordant+ ba? mu/ be rais$ v gradually to boil+ po9t or ! wool w dye unev5ly4 ,a g5]al me?od ( deal+ ) copp]as is to boil ! wool fir/ 9 a decoction ( ! col\r+ matt] & !n add ! mordant to ! same ba? 9 a proportion ( #e to #h p] c5t4 ( ! weight ( wool3 & cont9ue boil+ = half an h\r or s long]4 ,) "s dyes a sep>ate ba? is ne$$1 su* z ) ,camwood or ,cate*u4 ,if us$ = cotton1 ! cotton is fir/ dy$ 9 a boil+ decoction ( ! dye /uff & !n pass$ ?r\gh a cold solution ( f]r\s sulphate4 ,probably ! commone/ way ( apply+ copp]as 9 cotton dye+ is to prep>e ! cotton ) tann91 pass ?r\gh cle> lime wat] & !n ?r\gh a copp]as solution4 ,great c>e is ne$$ 9 ! us+ ( copp]as1 z1 unless x is ?or\ghly dissolv$ & mix$ ) ! wat] be=e ! wool is ent]$1 x is apt to /a9 ! wool4 ,x also h>d5s wool if us$ 9 excess1 or if boil$ too long4 ,copp]as is mo/ly us$ = ! fix+ ( wool col\rs 7,fu/ic etc47 to produce br[n %ades by ! /uff+ & sadd5+ me?od 7see page #ad71 ! wool be+ boil$ fir/ 9 a decoction ( ! dye = ab\t an h\r1 & !n = an h\r ) ! addition ( #e to #h p] c5t4 ( copp]as4 ,if us$ = d>k5+ col\rs1 copp]as is add$ to ! ba?1 aft] ! dye+1 & ! boil+ cont9u$ = #ae to #bj m9utes4 ,examples ( v>i\s proportions = ,mordant+4-- #h p] c5t4 ( copp]as & #bj p] c5t4 ( cream ( t>t> is a mordant us$ = "s col\rs4 #d p] c5t4 copp]as1 #aj p] c5t4 cream ( t>t> gives good olive col\rs ) weld4 #h p] c5t4 copp]as )\t t>t> ) s+le ba? me?od1 = d>k olive br[n ) old fu/ic4 #b oz4 copp]as & #b oz4 cream ( t>t> to #b lbs4 wool4 #b oz4 copp]as1 #a oz4 oxalic acid to #b lbs4 wool4 ,,t94--7,/ann\s *loride1 t9 cry/als1 t9 salts1 muriate ( t947 ,t9 is n s useful z a mordant 9 itself1 b z a modify+ ag5t ) o!r mordants4 ,x mu/ be always us$ ) great c>e1 z x t5ds to h>d5 ! wool1 mak+ x h>% & brittle4 ,its g5]al effect is to give bright]1 cle>] & fa/] col\rs ?an ! o!r mordants4 ,:5 us$ z a mordant be=e dye+1 ! wool is ent]$ into ! cold mordant+ ba?1 conta9+ #d p] c5t4 ( /ann\s *loride & #b p] c5t4 oxalic acid3 ! temp]ature is gradually rais$ to boil+1 & kept at ?is temp]ature = #a h\r4 ,x is sometimes add$ to ! dye ba? t[>ds ! end ( dye+1 to int5sify & bright5 ! col\r4 ,x is also us$ ) co*9eal = sc>let on wool1 9 ! proportion ( #f p] c5t4 ( /ann\s *loride & #d p] c5t4 ( cream ( t>t>4 ,boil = #a to #a h\rs4 ,!n wa% well4 ,! wa%+ aft] mordant+ is n always ess5tial4 ,also #f to #h p] c5t4 ( oxalic acid & #f p] c5t4 ( /ann\s *loride1 = co*9eal on wool4 ,?is mordant produces bright fa/ yell[s f old fu/ic1 by boil+ ! wool f #a to #a h\rs1 ) #h p] c5t4 ( /ann\s *loride & #h p] c5t4 ( cream ( t>t>4 ,"o recipe gives #b oz4 t9 & #d oz4 cream ( t>t> to #b lbs4 wool 9 #aj gallons ( wat]4 ,x is n a suitable mordant alone = cotton1 b c be us$ to bright5 ! col\r 9 comb9ation ) o!r mordants4 ,! nitro-muriate ( t9 7dy]'s _s7 al?\gh x produces good yell[s ) qu]citron b>k1 produces !m 9 a mu* weak] degree ?an ! murio-sulphate ( t metal1 :i* is really ! *eape/ & mo/ efficaci\s ( all ! solutions or prep>ations ( t9 = dye+ qu]citron z well z ! co*9eal col\rs4-- ,bancr(t4 ,,*rome4 7,potassium di*romate1 ,bi*romate ( ,pota%47 ,*rome is a mod]n mordant1 unkn[n to ! dy] ( #ej ye>s ago4 ,x is excell5t = wool & is easy to use & v effective 9 its action4 ,its great advantage is t x leaves ! wool s(t to ! t\*1 :]eas ! o!r mordants are apt to h>d5 ! wool4 ,9 comm]cial dye+ x is n[ almo/ exclusively us$1 z x has prov$ itself ! mo/ g5]ally conv5i5t4 ,by "s x is said n to be s fa/ to light z ! o!r mordants1 b x produces bright] col\rs4 ,! wool %\ld be boil$ = "o to "o a half h\rs ) bi*romate ( pota% 9 ! proportion ( #b to #d p] c5t4 ( ! wool4 ,x is !n wa%$ well & imm$iately dy$4 ,wool mordant$ ) *rome %\ld n be expos$ to light1 b %\ld be kept well cov]$ ) ! liquid :ile be+ mordant$1 else x is liable to dye unev5ly4 ,an excess ( *rome impairs ! col\r4 #c p] c5t4 ( *rome is a safe quantity to use = ord9>y dye+4 ,"o recipe gives #a oz4 ( *rome to #b lbs4 ( wool4 ,x %\ld be dissolv$ 9 ! ba? :ile ! wat] is heat+4 ,! wool is ent]$ & ! ba? gradually rais$ to ! boil+ po9t1 & boil$ = ?ree qu>t]s ( an h\r4 ,9 ! dye+ ( cotton1 x is us$ = cate*u br[ns & o!r col\rs4 ,! cotton is soak$ 9 a decoction ( cate*u1 & aft]w>ds pass$ ?r\gh a boil+ solution ( *rome1 or x is work$ = half an h\r 9 a ba? ( *rome at #fj;,c41 & !n wa%$4 ,x is usual to wa% wool or cotton aft] mordant+ ) *rome1 b "s dy]s d n ?9k x necess>y4 ,,copp]4 7,copp] ,sulphate1 ,v]digris1 blue vitriol1 blue-/one47 ,copp] is r>ely us$ z a mordant4 ,x is usually appli$ z a sadd5+ ag5t1 t is1 ! wool is dy$ fir/1 & ! mordant appli$ aft]w>ds to fix ! col\r4 ,) cream ( t>t> x is us$ sometimes z an ord9>y mordant be=e dye+1 b ! col\rs s produc$ h no advantage ov] col\rs mordant$ by easi] me?ods4 ,,examples4--#f p] c5t4 ( copp] is us$ z a mordant = weld to produce an olive yell[4 #d to #e p] c5t4 is us$ ) old fu/ic = yell[4 #aj p] c5t4 ( copp] gives to wool a r$di% purple ) co*9eal4 ,mordants %\ld n affect ! physical *>act]i/ics ( ! fibres4 ,suffici5t "t mu/ be all[$ = ! mordant to p5etrate ! fibre ?or\ghly4 ,if ! mordant is only sup]ficial1 ! dye w be unev53 x w fade & w n be z brilliant z x %\ld be4 ,! brilliancy & fa/ness ( ,ea/]n dyes are probably due to a great ext5t to ! l5g? ( "t tak5 ov] ! v>i\s processes ( dye+4 ,! long] "t t c be giv5 to ea* process1 ! m satisfactory w be ! result4 ,diff]5t mordants give diff]5t col\rs ) ! same dye /uff4 ,= example3--,co*9eal1 if mordant$ ) alum1 w give a crimson col\r2 ) iron1 purple2 ) t91 sc>let2 & ) *rome or copp]1 purple4 ,logwood1 also1 if mordant$ ) alum1 gives a mauve col\r2 if mordant$ ) *rome1 x gives a blue4 ,fu/ic1 weld1 & mo/ ( ! yell[ dyes1 give a gre5y yell[ ) alum1 b an old gold col\r ) *rome2 & fawns ( v>i\s %ades ) o!r mordants4 ,,tann94--7,tannic ,acid47--,tann9s are us$ 9 ! dye+ ( cotton & l954 ,cotton & l95 possess ! rem>kable p[] ( attract+ tann9s f _! aque\s solution1 & :5 ^! sub/ances are prep>$ ) tann9s1 !y are able to reta9 dyes p]man5tly4 ,cotton saturat$ ) tann91 attracts ! dye /uff m rapidly1 & holds x4 ,tannic acid is ! be/ tann9 = mordant+ cotton & l951 z x is ! pure/ & is free f any o!r col\r+ matt]4 ,x is1 !re=e1 us$ = pale & bright %ades4 ,b = d>k %ades1 sub/ances conta9+ tannic acid are us$1 su* z suma*1 myrobalans1 valonia1 divi-divi1 oak galls1 *e/nut 7#h to #aj p] c5t4 ( tann971 cate*u4 ,cotton & l95 are prep>$ ) tann9 aft] !y h be5 ?r\gh ! requir$ cleans+1 & if necess>y1 blea*+ op]ations4 ,a ba? is prep>$ ) #b to #e p] c5t4 ( tannic acid ( ! weight ( ! cotton1 & a suffici5t quantity ( wat]4 ,= d>k %ades1 #e to #aj p] c5t4 %\ld be us$4 ,! ba? is us$ ei!r hot or cold4 ,x %\ld n be above #fj;,c4 ,! cotton is work$ 9 ?is = "s "t1 & !n left to soak = #c to #ab h\rs1 :ile ! ba? cools4 ,x is !n wrung out & slightly wa%$4 ,! foll[+ gives ! relative proportions ( ! v>i\s sub/ances conta9+ tann93--#a lb4 tann9 equals #d lbs4 suma*1 #ah lbs4 myrobalans1 #ad lbs4 divi-divi1 #aa lbs4 oak galls4 ,a few examples tak5 f v>i\s recipes ( cotton dye+3-- ,= #aj lbs4 cotton use #ab oz4 tann94 ,= #ej lbs4 cotton use #aj lbs4 suma*4 ,= #dj lbs4 cotton use #aj lbs4 suma*4 ,= #bj lbs4 cotton use #b lbs4 yell[ cate*u or black cate*u4 ,= #bj lbs cotton sp5d #c lbs4 ( cate*u ) #c oz4 ( blue vitriol4 ,"s recipes soak ! cotton = #bd h\rs1 o!rs = #dh h\rs4 ,,*apt] ,,iv4 ,,briti% ,,dye ,,plants ,! introduction ( =eign dye woods & o!r dyes dur+ ! #ag? & #ah? c5turies rapidly displac$ ! native dye plants1 except 9 c]ta9 out ( ! way places su* z ! ,highl&s & p>ts ( ,irel&4 ,"s ( ^! ,briti% dye plants _h be5 us$ f e>ly hi/orical times = dye+4 ,"s few are /ill 9 use 9 comm]cial dye "w 7pe>1 sloe1 & a few o!rs72 b _! disuse 0 practically complet$ dur+ ! #ai? c5tury :5 ! *emical dyes ou/$ !m f ! m>ket4 ,! majority ( ^! plants are n v important z dyes1 & c\ld n probably n[ be collect$ 9 suffici5t quantities4 ,"s few h[ev] are important1 su* z woad1 weld1 hea!r1 walnut1 ald]1 oak1 "s li*5s2 & _m ( ! less important ones w\ld produce valuable col\rs if exp]im5ts 7 made ) ! "r mordants4 ,^? :i* h be5 9 use 9 ! ,highl&s are mo/ ( !m good dyes4 ,among ^! are ,ladies ,b$/raw1 :ortleb]ry1 yell[ iris1 brack51 bramble1 mead[ sweet1 ald]1 hea!r & _m o!rs4 ,! yell[ dyes are ! mo/ pl5tiful1 & _m ( ^! are good fa/ col\rs4 ,practically no good r$1 9 quantity1 is obta9able4 ,madd] is ! only reliable r$ dye among plants1 & t is no long] indig5\s 9 ,engl&4 ,mo/ ( ! dye plants require a prep>ation ( ! mat]ial to be dy$1 ) alum1 or "s o!r mordant1 b a few1 su* z ,b>b]ry1 & "s ( ! li*5s1 are sub/antive dyes1 & require no mordant4 ,,plants ,,:i* ,,dye ,,r$4-- ,pot5til4 ,pot5tilla ,torm5tilla4 ,roots4 ,wild ,madd]4 ,rubia p]egr9a4 ,lady's ,b$/raw4 ,galium v]um4 ,roots4 ,gromwell4 ,li?osp]mum arv5se4 ,m>% ,pot5til4 ,pot5tilla ,com>um4 ,roots4 ,bir*4 ,betula alba4 ,fre% inn] b>k4 ,b$-/raw4 ,galium boreale4 ,roots4 ,common ,sorrel4 ,rumex acetosa4 ,roots4 ,ev]gre5 ,alkanet4 ,an*usa semp]vir5s4 ,) *loride ( t94 ,dy]'s ,woodruff4 ,asp]ula t9ctoria4 ,roots4 ,,plants ,,:i* ,,dye ,,blue4-- ,woad4 ,isatis ,t9ctoria4 ,:ortleb]ry or blaeb]ry4 ,vacc9ium ,myrtillus4 ,b]ries4 ,eld]4 ,sambucus nigra4 ,b]ries4 ,privet4 ,ligu/rum vulg>e4 ,b]ries1 ) alum & salt4 #b,sloe4 ,prunus communis4 ,fruit4 ,r$ be>b]ry4 ,arcto/aphylos ,uva-,ursi4 ,dogs ,m]cury4 ,m]curialis p]5nis4 ,yell[ ,iris4 ,iris ,pseudacorus4 ,root4 ,devil's ,bit4 ,scabiosa succisa4 ,leaves prep>$ l woad4 ,,plants ,,:i* ,,dye ,,yell[4-- ,weld4 ,res$a luteola4 ,mead[ ,rue4 ,?alictrum flavum4 ,roots4 ,m>% ,m>igold4 ,cal?a palu/ris4 ,fl[]s4 ,s4 ,john's ,wort4 ,hyp]icum p]=atum4 ,hea?4 ,erica vulg>is4 ,) ,alum4 ,sp9dle tree4 ,euonymus ,europu4 ,buck?orn4 ,rhamnus frangula & ,r4 ca?>tica4 ,b]ries & ,b>k4 #c;,dy]'s ,gre5wood4 ,g5i/a t9ctoria4 ,"y %oots & leaves4 ,kidney ,vet*4 ,an?yllis ,vuln>>ia4 ,m>% ,pot5til4 ,pot5tilla ,com>um4 ,l+4 ,calluna vulg>is4 ,yell[ ,c5taury4 ,*lora p]foliata4 ,hornbeam4 ,c>p9us ,betulus4 ,b>k4 ,h$ge /a*ys4 ,/a*ys palu/ris4 ,polygonum ,p]sec>ia4 ,polygonum ,hydropip]4 ,hop4 ,humulus lupulus4 ,/9k+ ,willy1 or ,ragwe$4 ,s5ecio ,jacoba4 ,yell[ ,camomile4 ,an!mis t9ctoria4 ,common dock4 ,rumex obtusifolius4 ,root4 #d,sawwort4 ,s]ratula t9ctoria4 ,gorse4 ,ulex ,europu4 ,b>k1 fl[]s & "y %oots4 ,broom4 ,s>o?amnus scop>ius4 ,brack54 ,pt]is aquil9a4 ,roots4 ,also "y tops4 ,way-f>+ tree4 ,viburnum lantana4 ,leaves1 ) alum4 ,bramble4 ,rubus fructicosus4 ,nettle4 ,urtica4 ,) alum4 ,bog ,myrtle or ,sweet ,gale4 ,myrica ,gale4 ,teasel4 ,dipsacus ,sylve/ris4 ,sundew4 ,dros]a4 ,b>b]ry4 ,b]b]is vulg>is4 ,/em & root4 ,bog asphodel4 ,n>!cium ossifragum4 ,agrimony4 ,agrimonia ,eupatoria4 ,yell[ corydal4 ,corydalis lutea4 ,privet4 ,ligu/rum vulg>e4 ,leaves4 ,crab ,apple4 ,pyrus ,malus4 ,fre% inn] b>k4 ,a%4 ,frax9us excelsior4 ,fre% inn] b>k4 ,pe>4 ,leaves4 ,popl>4 ,leaves4 ,plum4 ,leaves4 ,bir*4 ,leaves4 #e,will[4 ,leaves4 ,,plants ,,:i* ,,dye ,,gre54-- ,privet4 ,ligu/rum vulg>e4 ,b]ries & leaves1 ) alum4 ,fl[]+ re$4 ,phragmites communis4 ,fl[]+ tops1 ) copp]as4 ,eld]4 ,sambucus nigra4 ,leaves ) alum4 ,nettle4 ,urtica dioica & ,u4 ,ur5s4 ,lily ( ! valley4 ,conval>ia majalis4 ,leaves4 ,l>*4 ,b>k1 ) alum4 ,,plants ,,:i* ,,dye ,,br[n4-- ,:ortleb]ry4 ,vacc9ium ,myrtillus4 ,"y %oots1 ) nut galls4 ,l>*4 ,p9e ne$les1 collect$ 9 ,autumn4 ,walnut4 ,root & gre5 husks ( nut4 ,wat] ,lily4 ,nympha alba4 ,root4 ,ald]4 ,alnus glut9osa4 ,b>k4 ,bir*4 ,betula alba4 ,b>k4 ,oak4 ,qu]cus ,rohur4 ,b>k4 ,r$ currants1 ) alum4 ,hop4 ,humulus lupulus4 ,/alks give a br[ni% r$ col\r4 ,,plants ,,:i* ,,dye ,,purple4-- ,:ortleb]ry or blaeb]ry4 ,vacc9ium myrtillus4 ,b]ries4 ,x conta9s a blue or purple dye :i* w dye wool & silk )\t mordant4 ,deadly night%ade4 ,atropa ,belladonna4 ,sundew4 ,dros]a4 ,bryony4 ,bryonia dioica4 ,b]ries4 ,danewort4 ,sambucus ,ebulus4 ,b]ries4 ,eld]4 ,sambucus nigra4 ,b]ries1 ) alum1 a violet2 ) alum & salt1 a lilac col\r4 ,d&elion4 ,t>axacum ,d5s-leonis4 ,roots4 ,dyes a mag5ta col\r4 ,damson4 ,fruit1 ) alum4 ,,plants ,,:i* ,,dye ,,black4-- ,ald]4 ,alnus glut9osa4 ,b>k ) copp]as4 ,blackb]ry4 ,rubus fruticosus4 ,"y %oots1 ) salts ( iron4 ,dock4 ,rumex4 ,root4 ,iris4 ,iris ,pseudacorus4 ,root4 ,mead[sweet4 ,spirea ,ulm>ia4 ,oak4 ,b>k & acorns4 ,eld]4 ,b>k1 ) copp]as4 ,,footnotes3 #b ,on boil+ sloes1 _! juice becomes r$1 & ! r$ dye :i* x imp>ts to l95 *anges1 :5 wa%$ ) soap1 into a blui% col\r1 :i* is p]man5t4 #c ,= giv+ v inf]ior yell[ ^u co>s] wooll5s1 ! dy]'s broom1 g5i/a t9ctoria1 is sometimes employ$1 ) ! common prep>ation ( alum & t>t>4 #d ,sawwort :i* gr[s abundantly 9 mead[s af=ds a v f9e pure yell[ ) alum mordant1 :i* greatly resembles weld yell[4 ,x is extremely p]man5t4 #e ,! leaves ( ! sweet will[1 salix p5t&ra1 ga!r$ at ! end ( ,augu/ & dri$ 9 ! %ade1 af=d1 if boil$ ) ab\t "o ?irtie? pota%1 a f9e yell[ col\r to wool1 silk & ?read1 ) alum basis4 ,all ! #e species ( ,erica or hea? gr[+ on ?is isl& are capable ( af=d+ yell[s mu* l ^? f ! dy]'s broom2 also ! b>k & %oots ( ! ,lomb>dy popl>1 populus pyramidalis4 ,! ?ree leav$ hellebore1 helleborus trifolius1 = dye+ wool yell[ is us$ 9 ,canada4 ,! se$s ( ! purple trefoil1 luc]ne1 & f5ugreek1 ! fl[]s ( ! ,fr5* m>igold1 ! *amomile1 antemis t9ctoria1 ! a%1 frax9us excelsior1 fumitory1 fum>ia (fic9alis1 dye wool yell[4 ,! ,am]ican gold5 rod1 solidago canad5sis1 af=ds a v beautiful yell[ to wool1 silk & cotton ^u an alum9\s basis4--,bancr(t4 ,,*apt] ,v4 ,,! ,,li*5 ,,dyes ,"s ( ! mo/ useful dyes & ! lea/ kn[n are to be f\nd among ! ,li*5s4 ,!y seem to h be5 us$ among peasant dy]s f remote ages1 b app>5tly none ( ! great ,fr5* dy]s us$ !m1 nor are !y m5tion$ 9 any ( ! old books on dye+4 ,! only ,li*5 dyes t are kn[n g5]ally among dy]s are ,or*il & ,cudbe>1 & ^! are prep>ations ( li*5s1 n ! li*5s !mselves4 ,!y are /ill us$ 9 "s quantity & are prep>$ r elaborately4 ,b a great _m ( ! ord9>y ,li*5s yield v good & p]man5t dyes4 ,! ,p>melia saxatilis & ,p4 omphaloides1 are l>gely us$ 9 ! ,highl&s ,we/ ,irel&1 = dye+ br[n ( all %ades4 ,no mordant is ne$$1 & ! col\rs produc$ are ! fa/e/ kn[n4 ,crottle1 is ! g5]al "n = ,li*5s1 9 ,scotl&4 ,!y are ga!r$ (f ! rocks 9 ,july & ,augu/1 dri$ 9 ! sun1 & us$ to dye wool1 )\t any prep>ation4 ,! crottle is put into ! dye ba? ) a suffici5t quantity ( wat]1 boil$ up & all[$ to cool & !n boil$ up ) ! wool until ! %ade requir$ is got4 ,?is may take f "o to ?ree or f\r h\rs1 z ! dye is n rapidly tak5 up by ! wool4 ,o!r dy]s use x 9 ! foll[+ way3--,a lay] ( crottle1 a lay] ( wool1 & s on until ! ba? is full2 fill up ) cold wat] & br+ to ! boil1 & boil till ! col\r is deep en\gh4 ,"s ( ! f9e/ br[ns are got 9 ?is way4 ,! wool does n seem to be affect$ by keep+ x 9 ! dye a long "t4 ,a small quantity ( acetic acid put 9 ) ! ,li*5 is said to assi/ 9 exhau/+ ! col\r4 ,! grey ,li*5 ,ramal9a scopulorum1 dyes a f9e %ade ( yell[ br[n4 ,x gr[s v pl5tifully on old /one walls1 especially by ! sea1 & 9 damp woods1 on trees1 & on old rott5 wood4 ,boil ! ,li*5 up 9 suffici5t wat] "o day1 & ! next day put 9 ! wool1 & boil up aga9 till ! "r col\r is got4 ,if ! wool is left 9 ! dye = a day or m aft] boil+1 x absorbs m col\r1 & x does n hurt ! wool1 b leaves x s(t & silky to ! t\*1 ?\gh apt to be unev5 9 col\r4 ,"s mordant ! wool fir/ ) alum1 b x does n seem to ne$ x4 ,! be/ kn[n ( ! dye ,li*5s are ,p>melia saxatilis1 & ,p>melia omphalodes1 :i* are /ill l>gely us$ 9 ,scotl& & ,irel& = dye+ wool = twe$s4 ,! well kn[n ,h>ris twe$ smell is p>tly due to ! use ( ?is dye4 ,o!r ,li*5s also kn[n = _! dye+ prop]ties are3--,p>melia cap]ata or ,/one ,crottle :i* conta9s a yell[ dye1 ,p4 c]atophylla1 or ,d>k ,crottle1 & ,p4 p>iet9a1 ! common wall li*51 :i* gives a col\r simil> to ! col\r ( ! li*5 itself1 yell[i% br[n4 ,9 ,bancr(t's ,philosophy ( ,p]man5t ,col\rs is to be f\nd ! foll[+--,besides ! li*5s1 ^: col\r dep5ds ^u a comb9ation ) ! ammonia1 !re are "s :i* af=d sub/antive col\rs1 less beautiful inde$1 b m durable1 by m]ely boil+ ) wat]4 ,"o ( ^! is ! muscus pulmon>ius ( ,casp> ,bauh9e1 or ! li*5oides pulmonium reticulatum vulg>e m>g9ibus peltif]us ( ,dill5ius1 call$ ,rags & ,/one ,rags1 9 ! nor!rn p>ts ( ,engl&1 :i*1 )\t any mordant1 dyes a v durable d>k br[n col\r ^u :ite wool or clo?1 & a f9e la/+ black ^u wool or clo? :i* has previ\sly receiv$ a d>k blue f ,indigo4 ,! foll[+ occurs 9 an old ,scotti% hi/ory4--,!re is "o excres5ce gotton (f ! craigs :i* !y call cork-lit1 & make use !re( = litt+1 or dye+ a k9d ( purple col\r4 ,ano!r li*51 tak5 f trees 9 ,scotl&1 0 us$ = produc+ an orange t9t1 call$ ,philamort4 ,! tree li*5 0 call$ wood-raw1 or rags1 to di/+ui% x f /one li*51 or /one-raw4 ,a deep r$ col\r 0 got f ! dull grey friable li*51 common on old /one walls1 :i* 0 scrap$ (f1 ) a metal scrap]4 ,! bright yell[ li*51 gr[+ on rocks & walls1 & old ro(s1 dyes a f9e plum col\r1 if ! wool is mordant$ fir/ ) ,bi*romate ( ,pota%4 ,!re is a difficulty1 h[ev]1 9 gett+ en\gh ( ?is li*5 to make ! dye+ ) x practicable4 ,! col\r ( ! plant is no indication ( ! colorific p[]4 ,t is (t5 greatly modifi$ by ! conditions ( its gr[?1--su* z climate1 elevation above ! sea1 ne>ness or di/ance f ! sea1 age1 season :5 ga!r$1 habitat4 ,! be/ season = ga!r+ mo/ li*5s1 is late summ] & autumn4 ,9 ,sw$51 ,scotl& & o!r c\ntries1 ! peasantry use a li*51 call$ ,lecanora t>t>ea1 to furni% a r$ or crimson dye4 ,9 ,%etl&1 ! ,p>melia saxatilis 7,scrottyie7 is us$ to dye br[n4 ,x is f\nd 9 abundance on argillace\s rocks4 ,x is consid]$ be/ if ga!r$ late 9 ! ye>1 & is g5]ally collect$ 9 ,augu/4 ,imm$iately aft] be+ collect$1 an iron vessel is fill$ ) x1 & /ale ur9e !n p\r$ ov] x1 till ! vessel is full4 ,?is is sl[ly boil$ until ! plant beg9s to assume a mucillag9\s appe>ance1 :i* g5]ally takes place 9 ab\t #b h\rs4 ,:5 tak5 (f ! fire1 x has ! consi/5ce ( a ?9 jelly1 b x spe$ily h>d5s until x is ne>ly z ?ick z porridge1 & its col\r becomes a d>k ru/y grey4 ,x is !n fold$ 9 ! clo?1 lay] by lay] ( ,scrottyie & clo? alt]nately1 & all is boil$ = ab\t #bj m9utes1 9 s(t wat]1 9 :i* a little alum has be5 dissolv$4 ,x is !n tak5 (f ! fire & ! clo? wa%$ 9 cold wat]1 :5 ! process ( dye+ is complete4 ,! ,scrottyie1 tak5 f betwe5 ! folds ( ! clo?1 is us$ sev]al times = dye+1 on be+ treat$ aga9 9 ! same mann]4 ,! plant us$ 9 ,%etl& = ! r$ dye is ! ,lecanora t>t>ea4 ,x is f\nd abundantly on almo/ all rocks & also gr[s on dry moors1 along ) ,cladonia sangif]9a4 7,if a p>ticle ( ! latt] is all[$ to be int]mix$ ) ! dye1 x is suppos$ to be spoil$47 ,! li*51 & ! dye made f x1 are call$ ,korkalett4 ,?is li*5 is collect$ 9 ,may & ,june1 & /eep$ 9 /ale ur9e = ab\t #c weeks1 be+ kept at a mod]ate heat all ! "t4 ,! sub/ance hav+ !n a ?ick & /rong texture1 l bread1 & be+ ( a blui% black col\r1 is tak5 out & made into small cakes ( ab\t lb4 9 weight1 :i* are wrapp$ 9 dock leaves & hung up to dry 9 peat smoke4 ,:5 dry x may be pres]v$ fit = use = _m ye>s2 :5 want$ = dye+ x is p>tially dissolv$ 9 w>m wat] till ( ! consi/5ce ( ,scrottyie1 ! dye+ proce$s 9 ! same mann]2 #e lbs4 ( korkalett be+ consid]$ suffici5t = ab\t #d ,scot* ells ( clo?4 ,! col\r produc$ is a light r$4 ,x is mu* us$ 9 ! dye+ ( y>n z well z clo?4 ,! y>n is simply boil$ 9 x )\t fold+ z 9 ! case ( clo?4#f ,l9nu m5tions t a beautiful r$ col\r may be prep>$ f ,li*5 pu/ulatus1 ,gyrophora pu/ulata4 ,g4 cyl9drica is us$ by ,icel&]s = dye+ wooll5 /uffs a br[ni% gre5 col\r4 ,9 ,sw$5 & ,norway1 ,ev]nia vulp9a is us$ = dye+ wooll5 /uffs yell[4 ,icel& moss1 ,cetr>ia ,isl&ica1 is us$ 9 ,icel& = dye+ br[n4 ,usnea b>bata is collect$ f trees 9 ,p5nsylvania us$ = an orange col\r = y>n4 ,lecanora t>t>ea 7corcur ( ! ,scotti% ,highl&]s7 dyes a cl>et4 ,x is usually prep>$ by p\nd+ ! li*5 & mix+ x ) /ale *amb]ley1 to :i* a little salt or kelp is add$2 ?is mixture is kept = sev]al weeks1 & frequ5tly /irr$2 be+ !n br\ght to ! consi/5ce ( co>se pa/e1 x is made up into balls1 ) a little lime or burnt %ells1 & is kept ready = use4 ,:5 us$1 x is co>sely p[d]$ & a small portion ( alum is g5]ally add$4 ,a g5]al me?od = us+ li*5s is sugge/$ by ,dr4 ,we/r+ ( ,sw$51 9 8 ,exp]im5ts on ,li*5s = ,dye+ ,wools & ,silks4 ,he says3 ,! ,li*5s %\ld be ga!r$ aft] "s days ( ra91 !y c !n be m easily deta*$ f ! rocks4 ,!y %\ld be well wa%$1 dri$ & r$uc$ to a f9e p[d]3 #be p>ts pure riv] wat] are add$ to #a ( p[d]$ li*51 & #a "p ( fre% quick lime to #aj p>ts p[d]$ li*54 ,to #aj lbs4 li*5 lb4 sal ammoniac is suffici5t :5 lime & sal ammoniac are us$ toge!r4 ,! vessel conta9+ !m %\ld be kept cov]$ = ! fir/ #b or #c days4 ,sometimes ! addition ( a little common salt or salt-petre w give great] lu/re to ! col\rs4#g ,?is me?od c be foll[$ by anyone wi%+ to exp]im5t ) ,li*5s4 ,dr4 ,we/r+ did n use a mordant z a rule4 ,:]e ! same species ( ,li*5 gr[s on bo? rocks & trees1 ! specim5s tak5 f rocks give ! bett] col\rs4 ,,or*il ,,or ,,ar*il ,,& ,,cudbe> are sub/antive or non mordant dyes1 obta9$ f ,li*5s ( v>i\s species ( ,roccella gr[+ on rocks 9 ! ,can>y ,isl&s & o!r tropical & sub-tropical c\ntries4 ,!y us$ to be made 9 c]ta9 p>ts ( ,great ,brita9 f v>i\s li*5s1 b ! manufacture ( ^! has almo/ entirely disappe>$4 ,!y h be5 kn[n f e>ly times z dyes4 ,!y give beautiful purples & r$s1 b ! col\r is n v fa/4 ,! dye is produc$ by ! action ( ammonia & oxyg5 ^u ! cru%$ ,li*5s or we$s z !y are call$4 ,! e>ly way ( produc+ ! col\r 0 by treat+ ! ,li*5 ) /ale ur9e & slak$ lime1 & ?is me?od 0 foll[$ 9 ,scotl&4 ,or*il is appli$ to wool by ! simple process ( boil+ x 9 a neutral or slightly acid solution ( ! col\r+ matt]4 #c ,sulphuric acid is a useful comb9ation4 ,sometimes alum & t>t> are us$4 ,x dyes sl[ly & ev5ly4 ,x is us$ z a bottom = ,indigo on wool & also = comp\nd %ades on wool & silk4 ,= cotton & l95 dye+ x is n us$4 ,x is r>ely us$ by itself z ! col\r is fugitive1 b by us+ a mordant ( t91 ! col\r is made mu* m p]man5t4 ,ar*il is 9 g5]al a v useful +r$i5t 9 dye+2 b z x is ri* 9 col\r1 & communicates an allur+ bloom1 dy]s are (t5 tempt$ to abuse x1 & to exce$ ! proportions t c add to ! beauty1 )\t1 at ! same "t1 injur+ 9 a dang]\s mann] ! p]man5ce ( ! col\rs4 ,nev]!less1 ! col\r obta9$ :5 solution ( t9 is employ$1 is less fugitive ?an )\t ?is addition4#h ,_m ( ! ,briti% li*5s produce col\rs by ! same treatm5t z is us$ = produc+ ,or*il4 ,l>ge quantities 7 manufactur$ 9 ,scotl& f li*5s ga!r$ 9 ! ,%etl& ,isl&s & ,we/]n ,highl&s4 ,?is 0 call$ ,cudbe>4 ,! species us$ by ! ,scotti% ,cudbe> mak]s 7 g5]ally ,lecanora t>t>ea & ,urceol>ia calc>ea2 b ! foll[+ li*5s also give ! purple col\r on treatm5t ) ammonia4--,ev]nia pruna/ri1 ,lecanora pallesc5s1 ,umbilic>ia vellea1 ,u4 pu/ulata1 ,p>melia p]lata2 :il/ sev]al o!rs give col\rs ( simil> "*1 b ( little comm]cial value4 ,! manufacture ( ,ar*il & ,cudbe> f ! v>i\s li*5s is simple 9 pr9ciple4 ,9 all cases ! plant is r$uc$ to a pulp ) wat] & ammonia1 & ! mass kept at a mod]ate heat & all[$ to f]m5t1 ! process tak+ two or ?ree weeks to complete4 ,! ammonia us$ to be add$ 9 ! =m ( /ale ur9e1 & additions ( slak$ lime 7 made f "t to "t4#i ,! g5]al mode ( treatm5t = ! developm5t f ! dye li*5s ( or*il & cudbe> consi/s ( ! foll[+ /eps3-- #a4--;,c>eful wa%+1 dry+ & clean+1 to sep>ate e>?y & o!r impurities4 #b4--,pulv]isation into a co>se or f9e pulp ) wat]4 #c4--,regulat$ addition ( ammonia ( a c]ta9 /r5g? & d]iv$ f v>i\s s\rces 7putrid ur9e1 gas liquor1 etc47 #d4--;,frequ5t /irr+ ( ! f]m5t+ mass s z to ensure full exposure ( e "p !re( to ! action ( atmosph]ic oxyg54 #e4--;,addition ( alkalis 9 "s cases 7e4g4 pota% or soda7 to height5 or modify ! col\r2 & ( *alk1 gypsum & o!r sub/ances1 to imp>t consi/5ce4 ,v>i\s accessories are employ$1 e4g4 ! application ( cont9u$1 mod]ate & c>efully regulat$ heat dur+ ! process ( f]m5tation4#aj ,,recipes ,,= ,,dye+ ,,) ,,li*5s4 ,to dye ,br[n ) ,crotal4 ,= #f lbs4 7#ajj oz47 ( wool4 ,dye ba?s may be us$ ( v>y+ /r5g?s ( f #aj to #ej oz4 ( ,crotal4 ,raise ! ba? to ! boil1 & boil = an h\r4 ,a light tan %ade is got by fir/ dipp+ ! wool 9 a /rong solution ( ,crotal1 a d>k] %ade by boil+ = half-an-h\r1 & a d>k br[n by boil+ = two h\rs or s4 ,x is bett]1 h[ev]1 to get ! %ade by alt]+ ! quantity ( ,crotal us$4 ,! addition ( suffici5t oil ( vitriol to make ! ba? slightly acid w be an improvem5t4 7,a v small quantity %\ld be us$74 ,to ,dye ,r$ ) ,crotal4-- ,ga!r ! li*5 (f ! rocks--x is be/ 9 w9t]4 ,put lay]s ( li*5 & wool alt]nately 9 a pot1 fill up ) wat] & boil until y get ! desir$ t9t4 ,too mu* crotal w make ! wool a d>k r$ br[n1 b a v pretty t]ra cotta r$ c be got4 ,no mordant is requir$4 ,to ,dye ,p9k f a bright yell[ ,li*54 7,p>melia p>iet9a74 ,mordant ! wool ) #c ( ,bi*romate ( ,pota%1 !n boil ) ! li*5 = #a h\r or m4 ,to ,dye ,br[n f ,crotal4 ,boil ! wool ) an equal quantity ( li*5 = #a or #a h\rs4 ,no mordant is requir$4 ,to dye r$ purple f ,cudbe> ,logwood4 ,dye ) equal quantities ( ,cudbe> & ,logwood1 ! wool hav+ be5 mordant$ ) *rome4 ,a light] col\r is got by dye+ ) #h lbs4 cudbe> & lb4 logwood 7= #cj lbs4 wool74 ,to ,dye ,yell[ on ,l95 ) ! ,li*5 ,peltig]a can9a 7a l>ge flat li*5 gr[+ on rocks 9 woods74 ,mordant ) alum1 7 lb4 to a lb4 ( l957 boil = #b h\rs4 ,!n boil up ) suffici5t quantity ( ! li*5 till ! desir$ col\r is got4 ,,li/ ,,( ,,li*5s ,,us$ ,,by ,,! ,,peasantry ,,( ,,diff]5t ,,c\ntries ,,= ,,wool ,,dye+4#aa ,,%ades ,,( ,,r$1 ,,purple ,,& ,,orange4 ,roccella t9ctoria4 ,orseille4 ,gr[s 9 ! ,s\? ( ,france1 on rocks by ! sea4 ,lecanora t>t>ea4 ,crotal1 ,crottle1 ,corkur1 ,corcir1 ,korkir4 ,f\nd 9 ! ,scot* ,highl&s & ,isl&s1 gr[+ on rocks2 us$ = ! manufacture ( ,cudbe> 9 ,lei? ,glasg[4 ,l4 p>ella4 ,light ,crottle1 ,crabs ,eye ,li*54 ,f\nd 9 ,scotl&1 ,france1 & ,engl&1 on rocks & trees1 =m]ly celebrat$ 9 ! ,s\? ( ,france 9 ! mak+ ( ! dye call$ ,orseille d',auv]gne4 ,l4 hmatomma4--,bloody spott$ lecanora1 ,black lecanora4 ,f\nd 9 ,scotl& on rocks & trees4 ,umbilic>ia pu/ulata4--,bli/]$ umbilic>ia4 ,f\nd on rocks 9 ,norway & ,sw$54 ,isidium corall9um4 ,:ite crottle4 ,f\nd on rocks 9 ,scotl&4 ,i4 ,we/r+ii4 ,we/r+'s ,isidium4 ,norway & ,sw$54 ,urceol>ia calc>ea4 ,corkir1 ,lime/one ,urceol>ia4 ,f\nd 9 ,scotl&1 ,we/]n ,isl&s1 ,%etl& & ,wales1 gr[+ on lime/one rocks4 ,u4 ,scruposa4 ,rock ,urceol>ia4 ,gr[s on rocks 9 hilly di/ricts 9 ,engl&4 ,u4 c9]ea4 ,greyi% ,urceol>ia4 ,9 ,engl&1 on rocks4 ,p>melia saxatilis4 ,crottle1 /ane-raw1 ,/aney-raw1 7,scotl&74 ,scrottyie1 7,%etl&74 ,/5-laf1 ,/5-mossa1 7,norway & ,sw$574 ,f\nd on rocks & /ones 9 ,scotl&1 ,%etl&1 & ,sc&9avia4 ,9 w9t] ! ,sw$i% peasantry we> home made g>m5ts dy$ purple by ?is li*54 ,by ! ,%etl&]s x is usually collect$ 9 ,augu/1 :5 x is consid]$ ri*e/ 9 col\r+ matt]4 ,p4 omphalodes4 ,black ,crottle1 ,cork1 ,cork]1 ,cro/il or ,cro/al1 7,scot* ,highl&s74 ,arcel1 7,irel&74 ,k5k]ig1 7,wales74 ,ala=el-leaf1 7,sw$574 ,f\nd on rocks1 especially ,alp9e1 9 ,scotl&1 ,irel&1 ,wales & ,sc&9avia4 ,"o ( ! mo/ ext5sively us$ dye-li*5s4 ,x yields a d>k br[n dye readily to boil+ wat]1 & x is easily fix$ to y>ns by simple mordants4 ,x is /at$ to yield a r$1 crimson or purple dye4 ,p4 cap]ata4 ,/one crottle1 ,arcel4 ,f\nd 9 ,nor? ( ,irel& & ,isle ( ,man1 on trees4 ,said to dye y>n br[n1 orange & lemon yell[4 ,p4 consp]sa4 ,spr9kl$ p>melia4 ,f\nd gr[+ on rocks 9 ,engl&4 ,ev]nia pruna/ri4 ,ragg$ ho>y li*54 ,/ag's horn li*54 ,f\nd 9 ,scotl&1 on trees4 ,ramal9a scopulorum4 ,ivory-l ramal9a4 ,scotl&1 on m>itime rocks4 ,a r$ dye4 ,r4 f>9acea4 ,mealy ramal9a4 ,on trees 9 ,engl&4 ,borr]a a%ney4 ,*ut*ele]a4 ,india4 ,solor9a crocea4 ,saffron yell[ solor9a4 ,9 ,scotl&1 on m\nta9 summits4 ,! col\r+ matt] is ready =m$ & abundant 9 ! ?allus4 ,nephroma p>ilis4 ,*ocolate color$ nephroma4 ,scotl&1 on /ones4 ,said to dye blue4 ,/icta pulmonacea4 ,on trees4 ,lecidea sangu9>ia4 ,r$ fruit$ lecidea4 ,9 ,scotl&1 on rocks4 ,conicul>ia aculeata4 v>4 spadicea4 ,br[n prickly cornicul>ia4 ,can>y ,isl&s1 ,highl& ,m\nta9s4 ,usnea b>bata4 ,be>d$ ,usnea4 ,p5nsylvania & ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,on old trees4 ,/at$ to dye y>n orange4 ,u4 florida4 ,fl[]+ ,usnea4 ,pale gre5i% yell[ or r$di% br[n4 ,u4 plicata4 ,plait$ usnea4 ,on trees4 ,,%ades ,,( ,,br[n ,cetr>ia ,isl&ica4 ,icel& moss4 ,icel& hea?s1 & hills4 ,x yields a good br[n to boil+ wat]1 b ?is dye appe>s only to h be5 made available to ! ,icel&]s4 ,p>melia physoides4 ,d>k crottle1 ,bjork-laf4 ,f\nd 9 ,sw$51 ,scotl& ,sc&9avia1 on rocks & trees4 ,p4 omphalodes4 ,9 ,sc&9avia & ,scotl&4 ,)]+ ass]ts t x yields a purple dye pal]1 b m p]man5t1 ?an or*il2 :i* is prep>$ 9 ,icel& by /eep+ 9 /ale lye1 add+ a little salt & mak+ x up into balls ) lime4 ,/icta pulmonacea4 ,oak lung1 ,lungwort1 ,aikraw1 ,hazel-raw1 ,oak rag1 ,hazel rag1 ,hazel crottle1 ,rags4 ,f\nd on trees 9 ,engl&1 ,scotl&1 ,nor? ( ,irel&1 ,sc&9avia4 ,x dyes wool orange & is said to h be5 us$ by ! ,h]e=d%ire peasantry to dye /ock+s br[n4 ,"s species yield beautiful saffron or gamboge col\r$ dyes1 e4g4 ,s4 flava1 crocata1 aurata4 ,= cont9uation ( li/ see ,app5dix4 ,,footnotes3 #f ,t4 ,edmon/on4 ,on ! ,native ,dyes ( ! ,%etl& ,isl&s #ahda4 #g ,! ,annales de ,*imie4 ,/ockholm ,transactions #agib4 #h ,! ,art ( ,dye+4 ,b]?ollet4 ,he gives m9ute directions = ! prep>ation ( ,ar*il4 ,see page #cfe4 #i ,"s ,briti% ,dye ,li*5s4 ,alfr$ ,edge4 #aj ,f ,dr4 ,w4 ,l4 ,l9dsay1 ,on ,dye+ ,prop]ties ( ,li*5s4 #aa ,f an article by ,dr4 ,laud] ,l9dsay on ! ,dye+ ,prop]ties ( ,li*5s1 9 ! ,ed9burgh ,philosophical ,j\rnal4 ,july to ,octob] #ahee4 ,,*apt] ,,vi4 #ab;,,blue ,,indigo1 ,,woad1 ,,logwood4 ,not)/&+ ! v great facility ( dye+ wool blue1 :5 ! blue vat is once prep>$1 x is f> o!rwise ) reg>d to ! prep>ation ( ?is vat1 :i* is actually ! mo/ difficult op]ation 9 ! :ole art ( dye+4--,hellot4 ,,indigo ,indigo is ! blue matt] extract$ f a plant1 ,indig(]a t9ctoria o!r species1 gr[+ 9 ,asia1 ,s\? ,am]ica & ,egypt4 ,x rea*es ! m>ket 9 a f9e p[d]1 :i* is insoluble 9 wat]4 ,!re are two ways ( dye+ ) indigo4 ,x may be dissolv$ 9 sulphuric acid or oil ( vitriol1 !reby mak+ an indigo extract4 ,?is process 0 discov]$ 9 #agdj4 ,x gives good blue col\rs1 b is n v p]man5t4 ,d>k] col\rs by ?is me?od are m p]man5t ?an ! pal] ones4 ,x does n dye cotton or l954 ,! o!r me?od is by ! indigo vat process1 :i* produces fa/ col\rs1 b is complicat$ & difficult4 ,9 ord] to col\r ) indigo1 x has to be depriv$ ( its oxyg54 ,! deoxydis$ indigo is yell[1 & 9 ?is /ate p5etrates ! wooll5 fibre2 ! m p]fectly ! indigo 9 a vat is deoxydis$1 ! bright] & fa/] w be ! col\r4 ,= ! dye+ ( wool1 ! vats are usually heat$ to a temp]ature ( #ej;,c4 ,cotton & l95 are g5]ally dy$ cold4 ,hellot says :5 ! vat1 ( :atsoev] k9d x be1 is once prep>$ 9 a prop] /ate1 !re is no difficulty 9 dye+ wooll5s or /uffs1 z x is requisite only to soak !m 9 clean w>m wat]1 to wr+ !m1 & !n to imm]se !m 9 ! vat1 = a long] or %ort] "t1 accord+ z y w\ld h ! col\r m or less deep4 ,! /uff %\ld be f "t to "t op5$1 t is to say1 tak5 out & wrung ov] ! vat & expos$ to ! air = a m9ute or two1 till x becomes blue4 ,= let y\r vat be :at x w1 ! /uff w be gre5 :5 tak5 out & w become blue :5 expos$ to ! air4 ,9 ?is mann] x is v prop] to let ! col\r *ange be=e y imm]se y\r /uffs a second "t1 z y are !reby bett] enabl$ to judge :e!r !y w require only "o or sev]al dips4--,! ,art ( ,dye+ ,wool1 by ,hellot4 ,! col\r ( ! blue is bright5$ by pass+ ! wool ?r\gh boil+ wat] aft] x comes out ( ! dye4 ,indigo is a sub/antive dye & consequ5tly requires no mordant4 #aca74 ,,to ,,make ,,extract ,,( ,,indigo4-- ,put #b lbs4 ( oil ( vitriol into a glass bottle or j>1 /ir into x #h oz4 ( p[d]$ indigo1 /irr+ briskly = h\r1 !n cov] up & /ir #d or #e times a day = a few days1 !n add a little p[d]$ *alk to neutralise ! acid4 ,x %\ld be add$ sl[ly1 little by little1 z ! *alk makes ! acid bubble up4 ,keep x closely cork$4 #b74 ,,to ,,make ,,extract ,,( ,,indigo4-- #d oz4 sulphuric acid1 oz4 f9ely gr\nd ,indigo4 ,mix l mu/>d1 & leave to /& ov]-night4 ,prep>e ! wool by mordant+ ) #e oz4 alum to #a lb4 wool4 ,boil = h\r & dye )\t dry+4 #c74 ,,to ,,dye ,,wool ,,) ,,indigo ,,extract ,= #d to #f lbs4 ( wool4 ,/ir #b to #c oz4 ( ,indigo extract into ! wat] ( ! dye ba?4 ,! am\nt is det]m9$ by ! dep? ( %ade requir$4 ,:5 w>m1 ent] ! wool1 & br+ sl[ly to boil+ po9t 7ab\t h\r7 & cont9ue boil+ = ano!r h\r4 ,by keep+ x bel[ boil+ po9t :ile dye+1 bett] col\rs are got1 b x is apt to be unev54 ,boil+ levels ! col\r b makes ! %ade gre5]4 ,?is is correct$ by add+ to ! dye ba? a little logwood1 #aj to #bj p] c5t4 ,?is %\ld be boil$ up sep>ately1 /ra9$1 & put 9 ! ba? be=e ! wool is ent]$4 ,too mu* %\ld be avoid$ h[ev]1 z x dims ! col\r4 ,x c be done 9 ! same ba?1 b bett] results are got by sep>ate ba?s4 ,in/ead ( logwood a little madd] is sometimes us$2 also ,cudbe> or ,b>wood4 #d74 ,,to ,,dye ,,silk ,,) ,,indigo ,,extract4 ,dye at a temp]ature ( #dj to #ej;,c4 9 a ba? ) a little sulphuric acid & ! am\nt ( indigo z is ne$$ = ! col\r4 ,ano!r me?od is to mordant ! silk fir/ ) alum by /eep+ x = #ab h\rs 9 a solution ( #be p] c5t4 & !n1 )\t wa%+1 to dye ) ! ,indigo ,extract & ab\t #aj ( alum add$ to ! dye ba?4 ,by ?is means comp\nd col\rs c be made by ! addition ( co*9eal1 = purple1 or old ,fu/ic1 ,logwood1 etc41 = greys1 br[ns & o!r col\rs4 #e74 ,,saxon ,,blue4-- ,put into a glaz$ e>!n pot #d lbs4 ( good oil ( vitriol ) #ab oz4 ( *oice ,indigo1 /ir ?is mixture v ha/ily & frequ5tly 9 ord] to excite a f]m5tation4 ,x is cu/om>y ) "s ,dy]s to put into ?is composition a little antimony or salt-petre1 t>t>1 *alk1 alum & o!r ?+s1 b ,i f9d x suffici5t to mix ! oil & ,indigo alone1 & ! col\rs w be f9]1 = ^? neutral salts de/roy ! acid ( ! vitriol & sully ! col\r4 ,9 #bd h\rs x is fit = use4 ,!n a copp] ( a good size is to be fill$ ) fair wat] 7into :i* "o peck ( bran is put 9 a bag7 & made pretty w>m1 ! bran aft] yield+ its fl[] mu/ be tak5 out1 & ! ,*ymie1 7,indigo ,extract7 mix$ well ) wat] 9 a ,pigg91 7a small pot7 is put 9 accord+ to ! %ade requir$1 hav+ fir/ put 9 a h&-ful ( p[d]$ t>t>2 ! clo? is to be well wet & work$ v quick ov] ! w9* 7/ick on :i* x is hung7 = half an h\r4 ,! liquor mu/ n be made hott] ?an = madd] r$ 7j "u boil+ po9t74 ,! hot acid ( ! vitriol w\ld cause ! blue to incl9e to gre5 if too mu* heat 0 giv54 7,f an old ,dye ,book74 #f74 ,,to ,,make ,,up ,a ,,blue ,,vat4-- ,take #a lb4 ,indigo ?or\ghly gr\nd1 put ?is into a deep vessel ) ab\t #ab gallons ( wat]1 add #b lbs4 copp]as1 & #c lbs4 newly slak$ lime1 & /ir = #ae m9utes4 ,/ir aga9 aft] #b h\rs & repeat e #b h\rs = #e or #f times4 ,t[>ds ! end1 ! liquor %\ld be a gre5i% yell[ col\r1 ) blacki% ve9s ?r\gh x1 & a ri* fro? ( ,indigo on ! surface4 ,aft] /&+ #h h\rs to settle1 ! vat is fit to use4 #g74 ,,turquoise ,,= ,,wool4-- ,mordant ) alum4 ,= a pale %ade use #a teaspoonful ( ,indigo ,extract 7see ,no4 #b7 = #a lb4 ( wool4 ,boil h\r4 #h74 ,,blue ,,= ,,wool4 7,highl&s74 ,take a suffici5cy ( ,indigo4 7,= m$ium %ade ab\t #a oz4 to e p\nd ( wool74 ,dissolve x 9 ab\t z mu* /ale ur9e 7ab\t a =tnight old7 z w make a ba? = ! wool4 ,make x lukew>m4 ,put 9 ! wool & keep x at ! same temp]ature till ! dye+ is done4 ,= a deep navy blue x w take a mon?1 b a pale blue w be done 9 #c or #d days4 ,e morn+ & ev5+ ! wool mu/ be tak5 out ( ! dye ba?1 wrung out & put back aga94 ,! ba? mu/ be kept cov]$ & ! temp]ature c>efully att5d$ to4 ,"s add a decoction ( dock roots ! la/ day1 :i* is said to fix ! blue4 ,! wool mu/ !n be ?or\ghly wa%$4 ,?is is a fa/ dye4 #i74 ,,indigo ,,vat4 7,= small dy]s74 ,add to #ejj litres ( /ale ur9e #c to #d kilos ( common salt & heat ! mixture to #ej to #fj;,c41 = #d to #e h\rs ) frequ5t /irr+1 !n add #a kilo ( madd]1 #a kilo ( gr\nd ,indigo1 /ir well1 & all[ to f]m5t till ! ,indigo is r$uc$4 #aj74 ,,saxon ,,blue4 7,b]?ollet74 ,prep>e ! wool ) alum & t>t>4 ,a small] or great] proportion ( ! ,indigo solution is put into ! ba?1 7#a "p ( ,indigo ) #h p>ts ( sulphuric acid1 dige/$ = #bd h\rs71 accord+ to ! dep? ( %ade wi%$ to be obta9$4 ,= deep %ades x is advantage\s to p\r 9 ! solution by portions1 lift+ out ! wool f ! ba? :ile x is be+ add$4 ,! cold ba? acts z well z ! hot4 #aa74 ,,! ,,cold ,,indigo ,,vat ,,) ,,ur9e4 ,take #d lbs4 ( p[d]$ ,indigo & put x into a gallon ( v9eg>1 leav+ x to dige/ ov] a sl[ fire = #bd h\rs4 ,at ! end ( ?is "t ! ,indigo %\ld be q dissolv$4 ,if n dissolv$ p\nd x up ) "s ( ! liquor add+ a little ur9e4 ,put into x lb4 madd]1 mix+ x well4 ,!n p\r x into a cask conta9+ #fj gallons ( ur9e 7fre% or /ale74 ,mix & /ir ! :ole toge!r2 ?is %\ld be done morn+ & ev5+ = #h days or until ! surface becomes gre5 :5 /irr$1 & produces fro?4 ,x may be work$ imm$iately )\t any o!r prep>ation ?an /irr+ x #c or #d h\rs be=e-h&4 ,?is k9d ( vat is extremely conv5i5t1 because :5 once prep>$ x rema9s s always until x is entirely exhau/$4 ,accord+ z y w\ld h y\r vat l>g] or small] y r$uce or enl>ge ! am\nt ( ! +r$i5ts us$ 9 ! same proportion z ! orig9al4 ,?is vat is soon] prep>$ 9 summ] ?an 9 w9t]4 #ab74 ,,indigo ,,vat ,,on ,a ,,small ,,scale ,,= ,,wooll5s ,,& ,,cottons4-- ,h a /rong #i gallon cask1 put into x #h gallons ( ur9e1 h a #d qu>t pickle j>1 into :i* put #a lb4 gr\nd ,indigo & #c p9ts ( be/ v9eg>2 put ! j> into a saucepan fill$ ) wat]1 & make x boil well = #b h\rs1 /irr+ x all ! "t4 ,let x /& 9 a w>m place = #c days1 !n p\r x into ! cask2 rake x up twice a day = a mon?4 ,x mu/ be cov]$ f ! air4 #ac74 ,,blue ,,vat ,,= ,,wooll5s4-- ,= e #bj gallons ( wat] add #e oz4 gr\nd ,indigo1 #h oz4 ( pota%1 #c oz4 madd]1 & #d oz4 bran4 ,keep ! solution at #adj;,f42 aft] #bd h\rs ! :ole w h begun to f]m5t1 !n add #b oz4 madd]1 /ir & all[ ! :ole to settle1 aft] :i* ! vat is ready = use4 #ad74 ,,to ,,dye ,,indigo ,,blue4 ,ur9e ,vat4-- ,prep>e vat z foll[s3--,to #c gallons ( /ale ur9e add #d oz4 ( common salt1 & heat ! mixture to #abe;,f4 7z hot z ! h& c be>74 ,keep at ?is heat = #d to #e h\rs1 frequ5tly /irr+1 !n add #a oz4 ?or\ghly gr\nd ,indigo & #a oz4 ,madd]1 /ir well & all[ to f]m5t till ! ,indigo is r$uc$4 ,?is is recogniz$ by ! appe>ance ( ! vat1 :i* %\ld be ( a gre5i% yell[ col\r1 ) /reaks ( blue4 ,all[ ! vat to settle1 :5 y c proce$ ) dye+4 ,process ( dye+ ! same z 9 ,no4 #ae4 #ae74 ,,to ,,dye ,,indigo ,,blue4--,pota% ,vat4-- ,into a pot #c p>ts full ( wat] put #a oz4 ,madd] & #a oz4 bran4 ,heat to ne>ly boil+1 & keep at ?is heat = #c h\rs4 ,!n add #e oz4 ,c>bonate ( ,pota%2 all[ ,pota% to dissolve & let ! liquor cool d[n till luke-w>m4 ,!n add #e oz4 ?or\ghly gr\nd ,indigo1 /ir well & leave to f]m5t = two days1 occasionally /irr+1 e #ab h\rs or s4 ,wool dy$ 9 ?is vat mu/ be ?or\ghly wa%$ aft] ! col\r is obta9$4 ,process ( ,dye+4--,into a vat prep>$ z above1 dip ! wool4 ,keep x "u ! vat liquor1 g5tly mov+ ab\t a suffici5t "t to obta9 ! col\r requir$4 ,a light blue is obta9$ 9 a few seconds1 d>k] blues take long]4 ,take out wool1 & ?or\ghly squeeze out ( x all ! dye liquor back into ! vat4 ,spread out ! wool on ! gr\nd1 expos$ to ! air till ! full dep? ( col\r is develop$4 ,! wool comes out ( ! vat a gre5i% %ade1 b ! oxyg5 9 ! air d>k5s x1 ?r\gh oxydation1 to indigo blue4 ,! wool %\ld n[ be wa%$ 9 cold wat] ) a little acid add$ to x1 & aga9 ?or\ghly r9s$ & dri$4 #af74 ,,blue ,,vat ,,= ,,cotton4-- ,9 a clean tub put #aj pails ( wat]1 slack5 #a bu%el ( lime into x1 & cov] :ile slack5+2 put #f lbs4 gr\nd ,indigo 9 a pot & mix x into a pa/e ) hot wat] & !n put #d pails ( boil+ wat] on to x1 /ir x1 cov] x1 & leave x4 ,9 ano!r pot1 put #bj lbs4 copp]as1 p\r #d pails ( wat] on ?is1 /ir x & leave x cov]$4 ,p\r #d pails ( wat] on ! top ( ! lime t is slack5+1 rake x up well & put 9 ! melt$ copp]as2 rake x well & put 9 ! ,indigo2 /ir well & leave cov]$ = a c\ple ( days1 /irr+ occasionally4 ,half fill a new vat ) ! mixture4 ,rake x well & :ile y are rak+1 fill x up ) clean wat]1 cont9ue rak+ = an h\r4 ,cov] x ov]2 x c be us$ ! next day4 ,?is is a col\r t nev] wa%es out4 #ag74 ,,gl\ce/]%ire ,,indigo ,,vat4 ,size #e feet ov] ! top3 #g feet deep1 #f to #g feet at ! bottom4 ,take cwt4 bran1 peck lime & #dj lbs4 indigo4 ,w>m up to #ahj to #bjj;,f41 rake x #d times a day4 ,if x f]m5ts too mu* add m lime3 if n en\gh1 m bran4 ,an exp]i5c$ eye or nose w soon tell :5 x is ripe or fit to use1 :i* %\ld be 9 ab\t #c days4 ,regulate ! /r5g? ( ! vat f "t to "t to ! col\r requir$4 ,no madd] or woad is us$ :5 mu* p]man5cy is want$4 #ah74 ,,cold ,,indigo ,,vat ,,= ,,dye+ ,,wool1 ,,silk1 ,,l95 ,,& ,,cotton4 #a "p ,indigo1 #c p>ts good quicklime1 #c p>ts ,engli% vitriol1 & #a p>ts ( orpim5t4 ,! ,indigo is mix$ ) wat]1 & ! lime add$1 /irr$ well1 cov]$ up1 & left = "s h\rs4 ,! p[d]$ vitriol is !n add$1 & ! vat /irr$ & cov]$ up4 ,aft] "s h\rs ! orpim5t p[d] is ?r[n 9 & ! mixture is left = "s h\rs4 ,x is !n /irr$ well & all[$ to re/ till ! liquid at ! top becomes cle>4 ,x is !n fit = dye+4 ,,woad ,woad is d]iv$ f a plant1 ,isatis t9ctoria1 gr[+ 9 ! ,nor? ( ,france & 9 ,engl&4 ,x 0 ! only blue dye 9 ! ,we/ be=e ,indigo 0 introduc$ f ,india4 ,s9ce !n woad has be5 little us$ except z a f]m5t+ ag5t = ! indigo vat4 ,x dyes wooll5 clo? a gre5i% col\r :i* *anges to a deep blue 9 ! air4 ,x is said to be inf]ior 9 col\r to indigo b ! col\r is mu* m p]man5t4 ,! leaves :5 cut are r$uc$ to a pa/e1 kept 9 heaps = ab\t fifte5 days to f]m5t1 & !n =m$ into balls :i* are dri$ 9 ! sun2 ^! h a r agreeable smell & are ( a violet col\r4 ,^! balls are subject$ to a fur!r f]m5tation ( #i weeks be=e be+ us$ by ! dy]4 ,:5 woad is n[ us$ x is always 9 comb9ation ) ,indigo1 to improve ! col\r4 ,ev5 by itself1 h[ev]1 x yields a good & v p]man5t blue4 ,x is n n[ kn[n h[ ! anci5ts prep>$ ! blue dye1 b x has be5 /at$ 7,dr4 ,pl[right7 t woad leaves :5 cov]$ ) boil+ wat]1 weight$ d[n = half-an-h\r1 ! wat] !n p\r$ (f1 treat$ ) cau/ic pota% & subsequ5tly ) hydro*loric acid1 yield a good ,indigo blue4 ,if ! "t ( infusion be increas$1 gre5s & br[ns are obta9$4 ,x is suppos$ t woad 0 vitrum1 ! dye ) :i* ,cs> said almo/ all ! ,britons /a9$ _! bodies4 ,x is said to gr[ ne> ,tewkesbury1 also ,banbury4 ,x 0 cultivat$ till q lately 9 ,l9coln%ire4 ,!re 7 f\r f>ms 9 #ahif2 "o at ,p>son ,drove1 ne> ,wisbe*1 two f>ms at ,holbea*1 & "o ne> ,bo/on4 ,indigo has q sup]s$$ x 9 comm]ce4#ad ,x is l ! ,indigo plant1 b less delicate & ri*4 ,x is put 9 vats ) ,indigo & madd] to dye a nev]-fad+ d>k blue on wool1 & 0 call$ woad-vats be=e ,indigo 0 kn[n4 7,?omas ,love74 ,& aga9 ,woad1 or :at is mu* /rong]1 pa/el1 always dy$ ! blue wooll5s ( ,europe until ,indigo 0 br\ght ov] "h4 ,bancr(t says ,woad alone dyes a blue col\r v durable1 b less vivid & beautiful ?an t ( ,indigo4 ,,logwood 7,bois de ,camp*e1 ,campea*y ,wood7 ,logwood is a dye wood f ,c5tral ,am]ica1 us$ = produc+ blues & purples on wool1 black on cotton & wool1 & black & violet on silk4 ,x is call$ by ! old dy]s1 "o ( ! ,less] ,dyes1 because ! col\r loses all its brightness :5 expos$ to ! air4 ,b ) prop] mordants & ) c>eful dye+ ?is dye c produce fa/ & good col\rs4 ,que5 ,elizabe?'s gov]nm5t issu$ an enactm5t entirely =bidd+ ! use ( logwood4 ,! act is entitl$ ,an ,act = ! aboli%+ ( c]te9e deceitful /uffe us$ 9 ! dye+ ( clo!s1 & x goes on to /ate t ,:]eas !re ha? be5 br\ght f beyond ! seas a c]te9e k9d ( /uff call$ logwood1 alias blockwood1 :]e) div]s dy]s1 etc41 & ,:]eas ! clo!s !re) dy$1 are n only solde & utt]$ to ! great deceit ( ! ,que5e's lov+ subjects1 b beyond ! seas1 to ! great discr$it & sclaund] ( ! dy]s ( ?is realme4 ,= re=mation :]e(1 be x enact$ by ! ,que5e our ,sov]aygne ,ladie1 t all su* logwood1 9 ^: h&es soev] f\nde1 %all be op5ly burn$ by au?oritie ( ! maior4 ,! p]son s (f5d+ 0 liable to imprisonm5t & ! pillory4 ,?is is quot$ f ,! ,art ( ,dye+1 by ,james ,napi]1 writt5 9 #ahec4 ,he goes on to say1 ,upw>ds ( eighty ye>s elaps$ be=e ! real virtues ( ?is dye+ ag5t 7 ackn[l$g$2 & !re is no dyewood we "k s univ]sally us$1 & s univ]sally useful4 ,! pr9cipal use = logwood is 9 mak+ blacks & greys4 ,! logwood *ips %\ld be put 9 a bag & boil$ = #bj m9utes to h\r1 j be=e us+4 ,logwood is us$ ) galls & copp]as = ! v>i\s %ades ( greys1 incl9+ to slate1 lav5d]1 dove1 & lead col\r1 etc4 ,= ?is purpose y fill a cauldron full ( clean wat]1 putt+ into x z mu* nut galls z y ?9k prop]4 ,y !n add a bag ( logwood1 & :5 ! :ole is boil$1 hav+ cool$ ! liquor1 y imm]se ! /uff1 ?r[+ 9 by degrees "s copp]as1 p>tly dissolv$ 9 wat]4--,hellot4 ,hellot is v scornful ( logwood1 nam+ x z "o ( ! less] dyes1 & n to be us$ by good dy]s4 ,,recipes ,,= ,,dye+ ,,) ,,logwood4 #a74 ,,black ,,= ,,cotton4-- ,aft] wa%+1 "w ! cotton 9 a cold infusion ( #cj to #dj ( ,suma*1 or its equival5t 9 o!r tann9 matt]#ae 7gr\nd gall nuts1 myrobalans1 etc47 & let /eep ov]-night4 ,squeeze out & )\t wa%+ pass ?r\gh a ba? conta9+ a dilut$ solution ( lime wat]1 or soda4 ,"w 9 a cold solution ( copp]as = h\r1 !n back into ! soda = a h\r at a temp]ature ( #ej to #fj;,c4 ,!n wa%4 ,dye 9 a fre%ly made ba? ( logwood ) a small proportion ( old ,fu/ic or ,qu]citron ,b>k4 ,! cotton is introduc$ into ! cold dye liquor & ! temp]ature gradually rais$ to boil+4 ,boil = an h\r4 ,aft] dye+1 ! cotton %\ld be pass$ ?r\gh a w>m solution ( ,bi*romate ( ,pota%4 7#e gra9s p] litre74 ,x is !n wa%$ & work$ 9 a w>m solution ( soap & dri$4 ,m ,fu/ic makes a gre5] black4 ,:5 cate*u is ! tann+ matt] employ$1 ! cotton %\ld be work$ 9 a boil+ decoction ( x & all[$ to /eep till cold4 #b74 ,,grey ,,drab ,,= ,,wool4 7#aj lbs47 ,dissolve oz4 ,bi*romate ( ,pota% 9 wat]1 & !n boil = h\r2 lift ! wool & add #a oz4 logwood3 boil = h\r4 ,lift out1 wa% & dry4 #c74 ,,logwood ,,grey ,,on ,,cotton4 ,! cotton is work$ 9 a weak decoction ( logwood at #dj to #ej;,c41 & !n 9 a sep>ate ba? conta9+ a weak solution ( f]r\s sulphate or ,bi*romate ( ,pota%4 ,wa%4 #d74 ,,gre5 ,,black ,,= ,,wool4-- ,mordant wool ) #c ,bi*romate ( ,pota% & #a ,sulphuric acid 7or #d ,t>t>7 = #a to #a h\rs4 ,!n wa% & dye ) #ce to #ej ( ,logwood4 ,?is gives a blue black4 ,x is gre5$ by add+ #e old ,fu/ic to ! dye ba?4 ,! m ,fu/ic ! gre5] ! black becomes4 ,if #c to #d alum is add$ to ! mordant+ ba?1 a /ill gre5] %ade is obta9$4 ,sulphuric acid 9 ! mordant produces a dead look+ blue black4 ,t>t> yields a bright blui% black4 #e74 ,,logwood ,,blue ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant ! wool = #a to #a h\rs at #ajj;,c41 ) #d alum & #d to #e cream ( ,t>t>4 ,wa% well & dye = #a to #a h\rs at boil+ po9t ) #ae to #cj logwood & #b to #c *alk4 ,?is col\r is n v fa/1 b c be made fa/] by add+ #a to #c bi*romate ( pota% & #a sulphuric acid4 ,! brighte/ logwood blues are obta9$ by dye+ j bel[ boil+ po9t4 ,long boil+ dulls ! col\r4 #f74 ,,gre5 ,,black ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant ) #b ,*rome & #be sulphuric acid4 ,boil #a h\rs & leave ov]night4 ,dye ) #dj logwood & #aj ,fu/ic4 ,boil #a h\r4 #g74 ,,logwood ,,blue ,,= ,,wool4 ,*rome #a1 ,alum #c1 ,t>t> #a4 ,boil #a h\rs & leave ov]-night4 ,dye ) logwood #bj & ,cudbe> #a4 ,boil "o h\r1 !n ?r[ 9 #bj qu>ts ( s+le muriate ( t91 dilut$ ) #bj to #cj gallons ( wat]4 ,imm]se #ae m9utes & wa%4 #h74 ,,fa/ ,,purple ,,= ,,cotton4 7,= #bj lbs4 cotton47 ,mordant ) copp]as4 ,wa% slightly2 !n a ba? ( muriate ( t94 ,dye ) #d to #e lbs4 logwood4 #i74 ,,fa/ ,,black ,,on ,,wool4-- ,put wool into a /rong logwood ba?1 ! /rong] ! bett]1 & boil = #a h\r4 ,take out & dra91 & put into a ,bi*romate ( ,pota% ba? & keep at #aej;,f4 = ab\t #e m9utes4 ,!n a ba? ( ,fu/ic or ,qu]citron4 ,aft] :i* wa% well 9 cold wat]4 #aj74 ,,black ,,= ,,cotton4-- 7,= #aj lbs47 ,/eep cotton 9 hot decoction ( #c lbs4 ,suma* & let /ay ov] night4 ,wr+ out & "w = #aj m9utes ?r\gh lime wat]3 !n "w = h\r 9 a solution ( #b lbs4 copp]as4 ,x may be ei!r wa%$ f ?is1 or work$ aga9 ?r\gh lime wat] = #aj m9utes4 ,dye = h\r 9 a w>m decoction ( #c lbs4 logwood add+ p9t *amb] lye4 ,take out cotton & add to ! same ba? #b oz4 copp]as4 ,"w #aj m9utes1 !n wa% & dry4 #a lb4 ,fu/ic is add$ = jet black4 #aa74 ,,fa/ ,,black ,,= ,,wooll5s4-- 7,= #ej lbs47 ,mordant ) #b lbs4 *rome1 #a lb4 ,t>t>1 #a qu>t ,muriate ( ,t94 ,boil #a h\r & wa% well4 ,dye ) #be lbs4 logwood & #c lbs4 ,fu/ic4 ,boil #cj m9utes4 ,take out & add #a p9t ,vitriol4 ,return = #aj m9utes1 wa% & dry4 #ab74 ,,jet ,,black ,,= ,,silk4 7,= #ej lbs47 ,mordant 9 hot solution ( ,nitro-,sulphate ( ,iron at #aej;,f41 "w = h\r4 ,wa% well1 !n boil up #ah lbs4 ,fu/ic4 ,put (f ! boil1 ent] silk & "w = #cj m9utes4 ,take out4 ,boil #af lbs4 logwood1 put (f ! boil & decant ! liquor into fre% ba?1 add #a lb4 :ite soap1 ent] & "w f #cj to #dj m9utes4 ,wa% well4 #ac74 ,,lav5d] ,,= ,,wool4 7,= #f lbs47 ,mordant ) #c oz4 ,bi*romate ( ,pota%1 = #de m9utes & wa%4 ,dye ) #b oz4 madd]1 #a oz4 logwood4 ,ent] ! wool1 raise to ! boil & boil = #de m9utes4 ,! proportion ( logwood to madd] c be s adju/$ z to give v>i\s %ades ( cl>et to purple4 #ad74 ,,black ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant #f lbs4 wool ) #d oz4 ,*rome4 ,boil = #de m9utes4 ,dye ) #ej oz4 logwood1 #a oz4 ,fu/ic4 ,raise to boil & boil = #de m9utes4 #ae74 ,,fa/ ,,*rome ,,black ,,= ,,wool4 7,= #dj lbs4 wool47 ,dissolve #c lbs4 copp]as & boil = a %ort "t4 ,!n dip ! wool 9 ?is = h\r1 air+ frequ5tly4 ,take out wool & make dye ) #bd lbs4 logwood4 ,boil = h\r4 ,dip h\r1 air wool1 dip h\r long] & !n wa% 9 /rong soap suds4 #af74 ,,light ,,silv] ,,drab ,,= ,,wool4 7,= #ej lbs4 wool74 lb4 logwood1 lb4 alum4 ,boil well & ent] wool & dip = #a h\r4 #ag74 ,a ,,fa/ ,,logwood ,,blue ,,= ,,wool4 7,highl& recipe74 ,mordant ) #c ,bi*romate ( ,pota% & boil wool 9 x = #a h\rs4 ,wa% & dry wool4 ,make a ba? ( #ae to #bj logwood ) ab\t #c *alk add$ to x4 ,boil ! wool = #a h\r1 wa% & dry4 ,! wool c be gre5$ by /eep+ x all night 9 a hot solution ( hea!r1 or boil+ x 9 hea!r till ! desir$ t9t is obta9$4 #ah74 ,,gre5 ,,black ,,= ,,wool4 7,= #ej lbs4 wool74 ,boil #bj m9utes ) #a lb4 *rome4 ,dye ) #bj lbs4 ,fu/ic1 #h lbs4 logwood4 ,boil = h\r4 #ai74 ,,slate ,,purple4 7,= #hj lbs4 y>n74 ,mordant ) #b lbs4 *rome = #bj m9utes4 ,dye ) #aj lbs4 logwood #a lb4 ,cudbe>4 ,boil = h\r4 #bj74 ,,rav5 ,,grey ,,= ,,wool4 7,= #fj lbs47 ,dissolve #h oz4 ,alum & "w ! wool v quickly = h\r at boil+ heat2 !n take x out & add to ! same liquor #c or #d lbs4 copp]as1 "w x at boil+ heat = h\r4 ,!n wa%4 ,9 ano!r copp]1 boil #a pailfull ( logwood *ips = #bj m9utes4 ,put ! wool into ?is = h\r2 !n return x into ! alum & copp]as = #aj to #ae m9utes4 #ba74 ,,d>k ,,r$ ,,purple ,,) ,,logwood ,,= ,,wool4--7,= #b lbs47 ,mordant ) #aj oz4 alum & #b oz4 cream ( t>t> = #a h\r4 ,let cool 9 ! mordant1 !n wr+ out & put away = #d or #e days 9 a l95 7or o!r7 bag 9 ! d>k4 ,dye ) #a lb4 logwood1 & lb4 madd]4 ,boil up ! logwood & madd] 9 a sep>ate ba? & p\r ?r\gh a sieve into ! dye ba?4 ,ent] ! wool :5 w>m & br+ to boil4 ,boil f h\r to #a h\rs4 ,wa% ?or\ghly4 #bb74 ,,violet ,,) ,,logwood ,,= ,,silk4 ,! silk is wa%$ f ! soap & dra9$4 ,= e p\nd ( silk1 dissolve 9 cold wat] #a oz4 v]digris2 :5 x is well mix$ ) ! wat]1 ! silk is imm]s$ & kept 9 ?is liquor = an h\r4 ,?is does n give col\r4 ,x is !n wrung air$4 ,a logwood liquor is !n made2 ! silk dipp$ 9 x :5 cold2 x takes a blue col\r suffici5tly d>k4 ,! silk is tak5 out & dipp$ 9 a cle> solution ( alum2 x acquires a r$ :i* produces a violet on ! silk j dy$ blue4 ,! quantity ( alum is undet]m9$2 ! m alum ! r$d] ! violet4 ,! silk is !n wa%$4 #bc74 ,,ord9>y ,,logwood ,,purple ,,= ,,wool4 7,= #a lb47 ,mordant wool ) lb4 alum & oz4 t>t> = #a h\r2 wr+ out & put away 9 a bag = "s days4 ,dye ) lb4 logwood = #a h\r4 ,,footnotes3 #ab ,e>ly dy]s 7 p>ticul> z to ! nam+ ( _! col\rs4 ,"h is a li/ ( blues1 publi%$ 9 #affi4--,:ite blue1 pe>l blue1 pale blue1 fa9t blue1 delicate blue1 sky blue1 que5's blue1 turkey blue1 k+'s blue1 g>t] blue1 ,p]sian blue1 aldego blue1 & inf]nal blue4 #ac ,i give "h recipes = ! simpl] vats :i* c be us$ on a small scale4 ,! m complicat$ recipes c only be done 9 a well-fitt$ dye h\se4 ,i w\ld ref] ! read] to ^? 9 ,! ,art ( ,dye+ by ,hellot1 ,macqu] & ,d',apligny1 & ,elem5ts ( ! ,art ( ,dye+ by ,b]?ollet4 #ad ,woad1 pa/el & ,indigo are us$ 9 "s dye books to mean ! same dye1 & !y evid5tly h v mu* ! same prep>ation 9 mak+4 #ae ,see page #cf4 ,,*apt] ,,vii4 ,,r$4 ,,k]mes1 ,,co*9eal1 ,,lac-,,dye1 ,,madd]4 ,,k]mes4 ,k]mes1 or ,k]ms1 f :i* is got ! ,sc>let ( ,gra9 ( ! old dy]s1 is "o ( ! old insect dyes4 ,x is consid]$ by mo/ dy]s to be ! fir/ ( ! r$ dyes1 be+ m p]man5t ?an co*9eal & bright] ?an madd]4 ,9 ! #aj? c5tury x 0 9 g5]al use 9 ,europe4 ,! r$s ( ! ,go?ic tape/ries 7 dy$ ) x1 & are v p]man5t1 mu* m s ?an ! r$s ( lat] tape/ries1 :i* 7 dy$ ) co*9eal4 ,bancr(t says ,! ,k]mes r$ or sc>let1 ?\gh less vivid1 is m durable ?an t ( co*9eal4 ,! f9e blood-r$ se5 at ?is "t on old tape/ries 9 diff]5t p>ts ( ,europe1 unfad$1 ?\gh _m ( !m are two or ?ree hundr$ ye>s old1 7 all dy$ f ,k]mes1 ) ! alum9\s basis1 on wooll5 y>n4 ,k]mes consi/s ( ! dri$ bodies ( a small scale insect1 ,coccus ilicis1 f\nd pr9cipally on ! ilex oak1 9 ! ,s\? ( ,europe4 ,x is said to be /ill 9 use 9 ,italy1 ,turkey1 ,morocco & o!r places4 ,william ,morris speaks ( ! ,al-k]mes or coccus :i* produces ) an ord9>y alum9\s mordant a c5tral r$1 true v]milion1 & ) a good dose ( acid a full sc>let1 :i* is ! sc>let ( ! ,middle ,ages1 & 0 us$ till ab\t ! ye> #afef1 :5 a ,dut* *emi/ discov]$ ! secret ( gett+ a sc>let f co*9eal by ! use ( t91 & s produc$ a *eap]1 bright] & ugli] sc>let4 ,k]mes is employ$ exactly l co*9eal4 ,x has a pleasant aromatic smell :i* x gives to ! wool dy$ ) x4 ,! foll[+ recipe = its use is f an old ,fr5* dye book3-- #bj lbs4 ( wool & a bu%el ( bran are put into a copp] ) a suffici5t quantity ( wat]1 & suff]$ to boil half-an-h\r1 /irr+ e n[ & !n4 ,x is !n tak5 out to dra94 ,:ile ! wool is dra9+ ! copp] is empti$ & fre% wat] put 91 to :i* is add$ ab\t a fif? ( s\r wat]1 f\r p\nds ( ,roman ,allum grossly p[d]$ & two p\nds ( r$ ,t>t>4 ,! :ole is br\ght to boil1 & t in/ant ! hanks are dipp$ 91 :i* are to rema9 9 = two h\rs1 /irr+ !m cont9ually4 ,:5 ! wool has boil$ two h\rs 9 ?is liquor1 x is tak5 out1 left to dra91 g5tly squeez$ & put into a l95 bag 9 a cool place = five or six days & sometimes long]4 ,?is is call$ leav+ ! wool 9 prep>ation4 ,aft] ! wool has be5 cov]$ = five or six days1 x is fitt$ to receive ! dye4 ,a fre% liquor is !n prep>$1 & :5 x beg9s to be lukew>m1 take #ab oz4 ( p[d]$ ,k]mes = ea* p\nd ( wool to be dy$1 if a full & well col\r$ sc>let is want$4 ,if ! ,k]mes 0 old & flat1 a p\nd ( x w\ld be requir$ = ea* p\nd ( wool4 ,:5 ! liquor beg9s to boil1 ! y>n1 /ill moi/1 7:i* x w be1 if x has be5 well wrapp$ 9 a bag & kept 9 a cool place7 is put 94 ,previ\s to its be+ dipp$ 9 ! copp] ) ! ,k]mes1 a h&ful ( wool is ca/ 91 :i* is let to boil = a m9ute4 ,?is takes up a k9d ( scum :i* ! ,k]mes ca/ up1 by :i* ! wool t is aft]w>ds dipp$1 acquires a f9] col\r4 ,! h&ful ( wool be+ tak5 out1 ! prep>$ is put 94 ,! hanks are pass$ on /icks cont9ually /irr+ & air+ !m "o aft] ! o!r4 ,x mu/ boil aft] ?is mann] an h\r at lea/1 !n tak5 out & plac$ on poles to dra91 aft]w>ds wrung & wa%$4 ,! dye /ill rema9+ 9 ! liquor may s]ve to dip a little fre% p>cel ( prep>$ wool2 x w take "s col\r 9 proportion to ! goodness & quality ( ! ,k]mes put into ! copp]4 ,ano!r ,recipe = ,dye+ ) ,k]mes4--,! wool is fir/ boil$ 9 wat] along ) bran = half-an-h\r 7 bu%el ( bran = #bj lbs4 ( wool7 /irr+ x f "t to "t4 ,dra94 ,next boil = #b h\rs 9 a fre% ba? ) a fif? ( its weight ( alum & a t5? ( ,t>t>4 ,s\r wat] is usually add$4 ,x is !n wrung1 put into a bag & left 9 a cool place = "s days4 ,! ,k]mes is !n ?r[n into w>m wat] 9 ! proportion ( #ab oz4 to e p\nd ( wool4 ,:5 ! liquor boils1 a h&ful ( wa/e wool is ?r[n 91 to take up ! dross ( ! ,k]mes1 & remov$4 ,! wool is !n put 9 & boil$ = an h\r4 ,x is aft]w>ds wa%$ 9 w>m wat] 9 :i* a small quantity ( soap has be5 dissolv$4 ,!n wa%$ & dri$4 ,to prep>e wool = ! ,k]mes dye1 x is to be boil$ 9 wat] ) ab\t ( its weight 9 alum1 & half z mu* ( ,t>t>1 = ! space ( two h\rs & aft]w>ds left 9 ! same liquor f\r or five days1 :5 be+ r9s$1 x is to be dy$ 9 ! usual way ) ab\t #ab oz4 ( ,k]mes = e p\nd ( wool4 ,sc>lets1 etc41 giv5 f ,k]mes1 7 call$ gra9 col\rs1 because t insect 0 mi/ak5 = a gra94 ,wool prep>$ ) a nitro-muriatic solution ( t9 7z is n[ practis$ = ! co*9eal sc>let7 & dy$ ) ,k]mes takes a k9d ( aurora1 or r$di% orange col\r4--,bancr(t4 ,,co*9eal ,! dri$ r$ bodies ( an insect 7,coccus ,cacti7 f\nd 9 ,mexico are nam$ ,co*9eal4 ,,recipes ,,= ,,dye+4 #a74 ,,sc>let ,,= ,,wool4 ,= ea* p\nd ( wool put #bj qu>ts ( wat]4 ,:5 ! wat] is w>m1 add #b oz4 ,cream ( ,t>t>1 #a dra*ms ( p[d]$ ,co*9eal4 ,:5 ! liquor is ne>ly boil+1 put 9 #b oz4 ( ,solution ( ,t9 7:i* ! ,dy]s call ,composition = ,sc>let74 ,z soon z x beg9s to boil1 ! wool1 :i* has be5 wett$1 is dipp$ & work$ 9 ! liquor = an h\r & a half4 ,a fre% liquor is !n prep>$1 #a oz4 ( />* is put 9 & :5 ! wat] is w>m #f dra*ms ( ,co*9eal4 ,:5 ne>ly boil+ #b oz4 ( solution ( t9 is put 94 ,x mu/ boil1 & !n ! wool is put 9 & /irr$ cont9ually = #a h\rs4 ,x is !n tak5 out1 wrung & wa%$4 ,! ,sc>let is !n 9 its ,p]fection4 #b74 ,,co*9eal ,,= ,,cotton4 ,prep>e #ej lbs4 ( cotton ) #ae lbs4 ,suma*1 #aj lbs4 ,alum4 ,dye ) #b lbs4 ( ,co*9eal4 ,leave = #bd h\rs 9 ! ,suma*2 lift2 w9* #b to #c h\rs 9 a hot solution ( ,alum2 wa% 9 two wat]s1 !n boil up ! co*9eal2 put (f ! boil1 ent] cotton w9* till col\r be full en\gh2 !n wa% & dry4 #c74 ,,orange ,,r$ ,,= ,,wool4 #a74 ,mordant wool ) ,alum4 #b74 ,dye 9 a ba? ( weak ,fu/ic4 ,wa% & ,dry4 #c74 ,put into cold wat]1 ,cream ( ,t>t>1 ,t91 ,pepp] & ,co*9eal4 ,:5 w>m1 ent] ! wool & boil4 #d74 ,,p9k ,,) ,,co*9eal ,,= ,,wool4 7,= #fj lbs4 wool74 #e lbs4 #ab oz4 alum4 ,boil & imm]se wool = #ej m9utes4 ,!n add #a lb4 ,co*9eal & #e lbs4 cream ( t>t>4 ,boil & ent] wool :ile boil+1 till ! requir$ col\r is got4 #e74 ,,sc>let ,,= ,,wool4 7,= #ajj lbs47 #f lbs4 ( ,t>t> are ?r[n into ! wat] :5 w>m4 ,! ba? is /irr$ briskly & :5 hot lb4 p[d]$ co*9eal is add$ & well mix$4 ,!n #e lbs4 ( cle> solution ( ,t9 is c>efully mix$ 94 ,:5 x is boil+ ! wool is put 9 & mov$ briskly4 ,aft] #b h\rs x is tak5 out1 air$ & wa%$4 ,! second ba?4 ,:5 ! wat] is ne>ly boil+ #e lbs4 ( p[d]$ co*9eal is put 94 ,a cru/ w =m on ! surface :i* w op5 9 sev]al places4 ,!n #ac to #ad lbs4 ( solution ( t9 is p\r$ 94 ,aft] ?is is well mix$1 ! wool is ent]$ & /irr$ well4 ,boil = an h\r1 !n wa% & dry4 ,^! two processes c be done toge!r ) good result4 ,! col\r c be yell[$ by fu/ic or turm]ic4 ,m t>t> 9 ! second ba? increases ! col\r4 ,! sc>let may be bright5$ by common salt4 ,alum w *ange ! sc>let to crimson1 ! wool be+ boil$ 9 a solution ( x = "o h\r4 #f74 ,,crimson ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant ) #b oz4 alum & #a oz4 t>t> = e lb4 ( wool4 ,!n dye ) #a oz4 co*9eal4 ,solution ( t9 is sometimes add$4 ,also salt4 #g74 ,,violet ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant ) #b oz4 alum = #a lb4 wool4 ,dye ) #a oz4 co*9eal & #a oz4 ( solution ( iron 9 :i* ! wool is kept till ! %ade is rea*$4 #h74 ,,sc>let ,,) ,,co*9eal1 ,,= ,,wool4 7,= #ajj oz4 clean wool74 ,put #f oz4 ,oxalic acid1 #f oz4 ,/ann\s ,*loride 7,t9 ,cry/als71 #h oz4 p[d]$ co*9eal 9 a ba? conta9+ ab\t half ! quantity ( wat] requir$ to cov] wool4 ,boil #aj m9utes1 !n add suffici5t wat] to cov] wool4 ,ent] ! wool1 "w well 9 ! dye & boil = h\r1 aft] :i* take out ! wool1 wa% & dry4 #i74 ,,purple1 ,,= ,,wool4 7,= #b lbs4 wool74 ,mordant ) ,bi*romate ( ,pota%1 #a oz4 9 #aj gallons ( wat]4 ,dye ) #f to #h oz4 co*9eal4 ,) alum mordant 7#d oz47 a crimson col\r is got4 ,) t9 mordant 7#b oz47 a sc>let4 ,) iron mordant 7#b oz47 a purpli% slate or lilac4 #aj74 ,,sc>let1 ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant ! wool = #a to #a h\rs ) #f /ann\s *loride & #d cream ( t>t>4 ,wa%4 ,dye ) #e to #ab ( gr\nd co*9eal = #a to #a h\rs4 ,to dye ! wool ev5ly1 ent] x 9 bo? ! mordant & ! dye :5 ! wat] is w>m1 & raise gradually to boil+4 #aa74 ,,sc>let1 ,,= ,,wool4 ,fill ! dye ba? half full ( wat]1 add #f to #h ( ,oxalic acid1 #f ( /ann\s *loride & #e to #ab p] c5t4 gr\nd co*9eal1 boil up = #e to #aj m9utes1 !n fill up ! dye ba? ) cold wat]4 ,introduce ! wool1 heat up ! ba? to ! boil+ po9t 9 ! c\rse ( to #a h\r & boil h\r4 ,wa%+ betwe5 mordant+ & dye+ is n absolutely ess5tial4 ,! addition ( t>t> up to #h p] c5t4 increases ! int5sity & yell[ness ( ! col\r4 ,9 ord] to obta9 bright yell[ %ades ( sc>let x is usual to add a small proportion ( "s yell[ dye to ! ba?4 ,wool mordant$ ) #aj p] c5t4 ( ,copp] sulphate & dy$ 9 a sep>ate ba? ) co*9eal gives a r$di% purple1 or cl>et col\r4 ,) f]r\s sulphate z mordant v good purpli% slate or lilac col\rs c be got4 ,mordant & dye 9 sep>ate ba?s4 ,use #h p] c5t4 ( f]r\s sulphate & #bj p] c5t4 ( t>t>4 #ab74 ,,crimson ,,= ,,silk4 ,mordant ! silk by work+ = h\r 9 a conc5trat$ solution ( alum1 !n leave to /eep ov] night4 ,wa% well & dye 9 a fre% ba? conta9+ #dj p] c5t4 ( co*9eal4 ,ent] ! silk at a l[ temp]ature & heat gradually to boil+4 #ac74 ,,sc>let ,,= ,,silk4 ,aft] boil+ & wa%+1 ! silk is fir/ slightly dy$ ) yell[ by work+ x = h\r at #ej;,c41 9 a weak soap ba? conta9+ ab\t #aj p] c5t4 ( ,annatto2 x is !n well wa%$4 ,mordant ! silk by work+ x = h\r1 !n /eep+ x ov] night 9 a cold solution ( #dj p] c5t4 ( nitro-muriate ( t94 ,wa% & dye 9 a fre% ba? ) a decoction ( #bj to #dj p] c5t4 ( co*9eal & #e to #aj p] c5t4 cream ( t>t>4 ,ent] ! silk at a l[ temp]ature & heat gradually to boil+4 ,bright5 9 a fre% ba? ( cold wat]1 slightly acidifi$ ) t>t>ic acid4 ,good results c also be obta9$ ) ! s+le ba? me?od ) co*9eal1 /ann\s *loride & oxalic acid4 ,) ! use ( iron mordants v f9e %ades ( lilac may be obta9$ on silk ) co*9eal4 ,,lac ,,dye4 ,l ,co*9eal & ,k]mes1 ,lac is a small scale insect1 ,coccus lacca4 ,x is f\nd 9 ,india1 ,burmah & o!r ,ea/]n c\ntries2 x 0 introduc$ into ,engl& 9 #agif4 ,! me?od ( dye+ ) lac is v mu* ! same z ) co*9eal2 x yields its col\r less readily h[ev]1 & %\ld be gr\nd into a pa/e ) ! t9 solution employ$ & a little hydro*loric acid & all[$ to /& = a day be=e us+4 ,x is said to be a fa/] dye ?an co*9eal1 b is (t5 us$ 9 comb9ation ) x1 be+ a full] col\r ?\gh n s bright4 ,a good fa/ sc>let is produc$ by ! foll[+ recipe3--,= #ajj lbs4 wool4 #h lbs4 lac1 previ\sly gr\nd up ) "p ( ! t9 spirits1 #e lbs4 co*9eal1 #e lbs4 t>t>1 #bj lbs4 t9 _s4 ,,madd]4 ,madd] consi/s ( ! gr\nd up dri$ roots ( a plant1 7,rubia t9ctorum7 cultivat$ 9 ,france1 ,holl&1 & o!r p>ts ( ,europe1 z well z 9 ,india4 ,madd] is n mu* us$ = silk dye+1 b = wool1 l95 & cotton x is "o ( ! be/ dyes4 ,x is also us$ l>gely 9 comb9ation ) o!r dyes to produce comp\nd col\rs4 ,:5 us$ = cotton ! col\r is mu* improv$ by boil+ 9 a weak solution ( soap aft] ! dye+4 ,! gradual rais+ ( ! temp]ature ( ! dye ba? is ess5tial 9 ord] to develop ! full col\r+ p[] ( madd]2 long boil+ %\ld be avoid$1 z x dulls ! col\r4 ,if ! wat] is defici5t 9 lime1 bright] %ades are got by add+ a little gr\nd *alk to ! dye ba?1 #a to #b p] c5t4 ,b]?ollet di/+ui%es two k9ds ( madd] r$ on cotton1 "o ( :i* is giv5 9 ,no4 #d4 ,! o!r is ! well-kn[n ,turkey r$ or ,adrianople r$1 a v difficult & complicat$ dye1 b "o ( ! mo/ p]man5t dyes kn[n4 ,madd] r$s are said to be n s beautiful z ^? f ,k]mes1 lac or co*9eal1 b my exp]i5ce has be5 t ) c>e1 ! f9e/ r$s c be got ) madd]4 ,bir* leaves are us$ 9 ,russia to improve ! col\r ( madd]4 ,!y are add$ to ! dye ba?4 ,,recipes ,,= ,,use ,,( ,,madd]4 #a74 ,,r$ ,,= ,,wool4 ,= #ajj oz4 7#f lbs47 wool4 ,mordant #h oz4 ,alum & #b oz4 ,t>t>4 ,boil ! wool 9 ! mordant = "o h\r & wa% 9 cold wat]4 ,dye3 #ej oz4 ,madd]4 ,ent] ! mordant$ wool1 raise to boil & boil g5tly = "o h\r4 ,wa% ?or\ghly 9 cold wat] & dry4 ,if ! wat] is v s(t1 a small quantity ( lime or *alk add$ to ! dye ba? improves ! %ade4 ,ald] b>k or ald] leaves add$ to ! dye ba? d>k5s ! col\r4 ,! be/ results are obta9$ :5 ! dye ba? is ma9ta9$ j "u ! boil+ po9t4 #b74 ,,r$di% ,,br[n ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant ) #c bi*romate ( pota% & dye ) ,madd]4 ,good results c be got by ! s+le ba? me?od4 7,see page #ad1 ,no4 #c47 #c74 ,,br[ni% ,,r$ ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant ! wool ) #f to #h p] c5t4 ( alum & #e to #g p] c5t4 ( t>t>4 ,dye ) #fj to #hj ( ,madd]4 ,beg9 ! dye+ at ab\t #dj;,c41 & raise ! temp]ature ( ! ba? gradually to #hj to #ajj;,c41 9 ! c\rse ( an h\r1 & cont9ue ! dye+ ab\t an h\r4 ,wa% & dry4 ,! col\r c be bright5$ by add+ a small proportion ( /ann\s *loride to ! mordant or x c be add$ to ! dye ba? t[>ds ! end ( ! dye+4 ,bright] %ades are got by keep+ ! temp]ature at ab\t #hj;,c41 & prolong+ ! dye+ process4 ,aft] dye+1 ! col\r c be bright5$ by work+ ! wool at #gj;,c41 9 a weak soap ba?1 or a ba? conta9+ bran4 #d74 ,,bright ,,r$ ,,= ,,cotton4#af 7,= #bb lbs474 ,! cotton mu/ be sc\r$1 !n gall$ 9 ! proportion ( #a "p ( nut galls to #d ( cotton1 & la/ly alum$ 9 ! proportion ( #a ( alum to #d ( cotton4 ,to ! solution ( alum is add$ "o tw5tie? ( solution ( soda ley 7 lb4 ord9>y soda to #a p9ts wat]74 ,x is !n dri$ sl[ly & alum$ aga94 ,!n dri$ sl[ly aga94 ,! m sl[ly ! dry+ takes place ! bett] ! col\r4 ,! cotton is !n ready to be dy$4 ,heat ! wat] ( ! dye ba? z hot z ! h& c be>2 mix 9 #f lbs4 madd] & /ir c>efully4 ,:5 ?or\ghly mix$1 put 9 ! cotton "w = h\r )\t boil+4 ,take x out add ab\t a p9t ( soda ley4 ,! cotton is !n return$ to ! ba? & boil$ = #ae to #bj m9utes4 ,x is !n bright5$ by pass+ x quickly ?ro' a tepid ba? ) a p9t ( ley 9 x4 ,x is !n wa%$ & dri$4 #e74 ,,bright ,,orange ,,r$ ,,= ,,wool4 ,= #a lb4 sc\r$ fleece1 mordant ) #d oz4 alum & #a oz4 cream ( t>t>4 ,dissolve ! mordant1 ent] ! wool & raise to boil+ po9t & boil = #a h\r4 ,all[ ! wool to cool 9 ! mordant4 ,!n wr+ out & put 9 a l95 bag 9 a cool place = #d or #e days4 ,soak #h oz4 madd] ov] night 9 wat] & boil up be=e us+4 ,put into dye ba?1 ent] wool :5 w>m1 br+ gradually to ! boil & boil = h\r4 #f74 ,,bright ,,r$ ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant #a lb4 wool ) #e oz4 ( ,alum1 & #a oz4 ( ,t>t>2 leave to dra9 & !n wr+ out2 put into a l95 bag & leave 9 a cool place = sev]al days4 7,! wool %\ld /ill be damp :5 tak5 out to dye2 if x is dry1 damp ) w>m wat]74 ,if ! ,t>t> is increas$ a c9namon col\r is got4 ,dye ) lb4 ( madd] = e p\nd ( wool4 ,! wat] %\ld n boil1 b kept j bel[ boil+ = an h\r2 !n boil up = #e m9utes be=e tak+ out & wa%+4 ,) sulphate ( copp] z a mordant1 madd] gives a cle> br[n bord]+ on yell[ 7"o "p ( sulphate ( copp] & #b p>ts ( madd]74 #g74 ,,r$ ,,= ,,silk4 ,! silk is mordant$ ov] night ) alum1 by /eep+ x 9 a cold conc5trat$ solution2 wa% well & dye 9 a sep>ate ba? ) #ej p] c5t4 ( madd]4 ,beg9 dye+ at a l[ temp]ature & gradually raise to #ajj;,c4 ,! addition ( bran t5ds to give bright] col\rs4 ,a small quantity ( ,suma* c\ld be add$ if a full] col\r is want$4 ,aft] dye+1 wa% & !n bright5 9 a boil+ solution ( soap1 to :i* a small p]c5tage ( /ann\s *loride has be5 add$4 ,aft]w>ds wa% well4 ,by mordant+ ) ,copp]as1 ei!r alone or aft] an ,alum ba?1 violet & br[n %ades c be got4 #h74 ,,r$ ,,) ,,madd] ,,= ,,wool4 ,p\nd up c>efully )\t heat+ "s roots ( madd]4 ,mordant ! wool ) ,alum1 add+ "s cay5ne pepp]4 ,dye ) ! madd]1 add+ cream ( t>t> to ! dye ba?4 ,bir* leaves improve ! col\r4 #i74 ,,madd] ,,r$ ,,= ,,cotton4 ,take a piece ( :ite cotton1 ab\t #bj y>ds4 ,melt 9 "s wat] #a lb4 ( pota%2 boil ! cotton 9 ?is = #bj m9utes1 !n r9se x4 ,put #d lbs4 ( ! be/ ,suma* 9 ! copp] & fill x up ) boil+ wat]1 & boil = #aj m9utes4 ,put to cool & "w ! cotton well 9 ?is = an h\r4 ,take x out & give x a scald+ hot alum & sug> ( lead ba? = half-an-h\r2 r9se 9 two wat]s2 put x back 9 ! suma* = half-an-h\r2 !n alum aga9 = #bj m9utes4 ,r9se4 ,put #b lbs4 ( madd] into hot wat] & boil g5tly = a few m9utes4 ,put 9 ! cotton1 "w well & boil = half-an-h\r g5tly4 ,aft]1 give x a hot alum = #bj m9utes1 & r9se4 ,put #a lb4 fre% madd] 9 ! copp]1 put 9 ! cotton & boil = #bj m9utes4 ,!n wa%4 #aj74 ,,r$ ,,= ,,cotton4 ,sc\r ! cotton4 ,!n gall 9 ! proportion ( #a ( gall nuts to #d ( cotton4 ,!n alum 9 ! proportion ( #a ( alum to #d ( cotton1 ) a little soda & t>t> add$4 ,dissolve ! alum1 etc41 & put 9 ! cotton1 & boil half-an-h\r4 ,cool d[n & r+ out4 ,!n dry sl[ly4 ,repeat ! alum+4 ,put madd] into wat] & :5 hot dip 9 cotton = h\r1 keep+ x "u boil+ po9t1 !n boil up = h\r & wa%4 ,dry4 #aa74 ,,madd] ,,r$ ,,= ,,cotton ,,l954 7,= #a lb47 #a/ ,mordant4--,boil #a oz4 gr\nd gall nuts 9 #e qu>ts ( wat] = h\r4 ,put 9 ?read & soak = #bd h\rs4 ,dry4 #bnd ,mordant4--,melt #b oz4 ( alum1 oz4 ( ,turm]ic1 & oz4 ( gum ,arabic 9 two qu>ts ( wat]1 ov] a sl[ fire4 ,let cool4 ,melt #a oz4 soda1 #a oz4 ars5ic1 oz4 pota% 7cru%$7 9 a ba?1 & :5 dissolv$1 add ! alum1 turm]ic & gum ,arabic mixture4 ,/ew h\r4 ,put 9 ?read1 :i* %\ld be cov]$ ) ! liquid1 & let x soak = #bd h\rs4 ,dry4 #a/4 ,ba?4--,put #b oz4 ,madd] into #aj qu>ts ( wat]1 heat up to boil+ b d n let x boil4 ,put 9 ?read & /ir well = #a h\r4 #bnd4 ,ba?4--,put #c oz4 ,madd] 9 #aj qu>ts ( wat]2 treat z 9 fir/ ba?1 f :i* ! ?read %\ld be tak5 & put /raight into ! #bnd4 ba?4 ,/ir = #a h\r4 ,soak = #bd h\rs2 wa% & dry4 #crd4 ,ba?4--,put #c oz4 ,madd] 9 #aj qu>ts wat]2 repeat ! process describ$ = #bnd4 ba?4 ,! ?read %\ld be wa%$ 9 cold wat] la/ly 9 w>m wat] 9 :i* a little s(t soap has be5 dissolv$4 ,:5 dry+ d n wr+ ! ske9s z ?is is likely to make ! col\r unev54 ,!re are a few o!r r$ dyes ( m9or importance :i* %\ld be m5tion$4 ,,brazil ,,woods1 v>i\s legum9\s trees1 includ+ lima1 sapan & pea* wood1 dye r$ ) alum & t>t>1 & a purpli% slate col\r ) bi*romate ( pota%4 ,!y are n fa/ col\rs4 ,"s old dy]s us$ ,brazil wood to height5 ! r$ ( madd]4 ,,camwood1 ,,b>wood1 ,,s&alwood or ,,s&]swood1 are *iefly us$ 9 wool dye+1 ) o!r dye woods su* z ,old ,fu/ic1 & ,logwood = br[ns4 ,!y dye good b fugitive r$ ) bi*romate ( pota%1 or alum4 ,,r$ f ,,ladies ,,b$/raw4 ,! cru%$ roots ( ?is plant are us$4 ,mordant ! wool ) ei!r alum or bi*romate ( pota%4 ,! r$ ) alum is an orange r$1 ) *rome1 a crimson r$4 ,make ! dye ba? ) #cj to #ej ( b$/raw roots & boil ! mordant$ wool 9 x = an h\r4 ,,r$ = ,,cotton4 ,= #aj lbs4 cotton boil #c lbs4 ,suma*1 let ! cotton /eep 9 ?is ov] night3 wr+ out & "w 9 r$ spirits 7#a gill to a gallon ( wat]74 ,wr+ out & wa% well4 ,boil up #c lbs4 limawood 7or ,brazil or ,pea* wood7 & #a lb4 fu/ic4 ,"w ! cotton 9 ?is h\r1 z w>m z ! h& c be>2 add #a gill r$ spirits & "w #ae m9utes long]4 ,wa%4 ,,footnote3 #af ,?is recipe c also be us$ = l951 b l95 takes ! col\r less easily ?an cotton1 & %\ld h ! v>i\s op]ations repeat$ z mu* z possible4 ,,*apt] ,,viii4 ,,yell[4 ,,weld4 ,,old ,,fu/ic4 ,,turm]ic4 ,,qu]citron4 ,,dy]',s ,,broom4 ,,hea!r1 ,,& ,,o!r ,,yell[ ,,dyes4 ,!re are t5 species ( drugs = dye+ yell[1 b we f9d f exp]i5ce t ( ^! t5 !re are only five fit to be us$ = ! good dye--viz4 ,weld1 savory1 gre5 wood1 yell[ wood & f5ugrec4 ,weld or wold yields ! true/ yell[1 & is g5]ally pref]r$ to all ! o!rs4 ,savory & gre5 wood1 be+ naturally gre5i%1 are ! be/ = ! prep>ation ( wool to be dy$ gre53 ! two o!rs yield diff]5t %ades yell[4--,hellot4 ,,weld ,weld1 ,res$a luteola1 an annual plant gr[+ 9 wa/e s&y places4 ,! :ole plant is us$ = dye+ except ! root4 ,x is ! be/ & fa/e/ ( ! yell[ natural dyes4 ,hellot's directions = dye+ ) weld are ! foll[+3--,all[ #e or #f lbs4 ( weld to e p\nd ( /uff3 "s enclose ! weld 9 a clean wooll5 bag1 to prev5t x f mix+ 9 ! /uff2 & to keep ! bag d[n 9 ! copp]1 !y put on x a cross ( heavy wood4 ,o!rs hold x 9 ! liquor till x has communicat$ all its col\r1 & till x falls to ! bottom3 ! /uff is !n susp5d$ 9 a net1 :i* falls into ! liquor1 b o!rs1 :5 x has boil$1 take out ! weld ) a rake & ?r[ x away4 ,! plant is ga!r$ 9 ,june & ,july1 x is !n c>efully dri$ 9 ! %ade & ti$ up into bundles4 ,:5 ne$$ = dye+ x is brok5 up into pieces or *opp$ f9ely1 ! roots be+ disc>d$ & a decoction is made by boil+ x up 9 wat] = ab\t h\r4 ,x gives a bright yell[ ) alum & t>t> z mordant4 ,) *rome x yields an old gold %ade2 ) t9 x produces m orange col\r$ yell[s2 ) copp] & iron1 olive %ades4 ,! quantity ( weld us$ mu/ be det]m9$ by ! dep? ( col\r requir$4 ,! dye ba? is prep>$ j be=e dye+1 ! *opp$ weld be+ put into weight$ bags & boil$ 9 s(t wat] = to #a h\r4 #b ( ,/ann\s *loride add$ to ! mordant gives brilliancy & fa/ness to ! col\r4 ,bright & fa/ orange yell[s are got by mordant+ ) #h ,/ann\s *loride in/ead ( alum4 ,) #f copp] sulphate & #h *alk1 weld gives a good orange yell[4 ,wool mordant$ ) #d ( f]r\s sulphate & #aj t>t> & dy$ 9 a sep>ate ba? ) weld ) #h *alk1 takes a good olive yell[4 #h ( alum is (t5 us$ = mordant = weld4 ,! dye ba? %\ld n be above #ij;,c4 ,x is good to add a little *alk to ! dye ba? z x makes ! col\r m int5se1 :ile common salt makes ! col\r ri*] & deep]4 ,wooll5 dy]s frequ5tly add a little /ale ur9e or lime & pota% to ! wat] 9 :i* x is boil$4 ,!y commonly employ #c or #d oz4 ( alum & "o ( t>t> = ea* p\nd ( ! wool4 ,t>t> is suppos$ to r5d] ! yell[ col\r a little m cle> & lively4--,bancr(t4 ,weld is ( great] antiquity ?an mo/1 if n all o!r natural yell[ dyes4 ,x is cultivat$ = dye+ 9 ,france1 ,g]many & ,italy4 ,x is important = ! silk dy]1 z x dyes silk ) a fa/ col\r4 ,! silk is mordant$ 9 ! usual way ) alum1 wa%$ & dy$ 9 a sep>ate ba? ( #bj to #dj weld1 ) a small quantity ( soap add$4 ,aft] dye+1 ! col\r is bright5$ by work+ ! silk = #aj m9utes 9 a fre% soap ba? ) a little weld add$ to x4 ,wr+ out )\t wa%+4 ,,recipes ,,= ,,dye+ ,,) ,,weld4 #a74 ,,yell[ ,,= ,,silk4 ,sc\r ! silk 9 ! proportion ( #bj lbs4 soap to #ajj lbs4 ( silk4 ,aft]w>ds alum & wa%4 ,a ba? is made ( #b p>ts weld = #a ( silk1 & aft] h\r's boil+1 x is filt]$ ?r\gh a clo? into ano!r ba?4 ,:5 ?is ba? is cool$ a little1 ! silk is imm]s$ & turn$ ab\t till dy$4 ,! weld is 9 ! meantime boil$ up aga9 ) a little pe>l a%1 & aft] be+ /ra9$1 x is add$ to ! fir/ ba? 7"p ( ! fir/ ba? hav+ be5 ?r[n away7 until ! desir$ col\r is got4 ,! ba? mu/ n be too hot4 ,if m gold5 yell[s are want$1 add "s annotto to ! second ba?4 #b74 ,,yell[ ,,= ,,cotton4 ,sc\r ! cotton 9 a lixivium ( wood a%es1 wa% & dry4 ,x is alum$ ) ( its weight ( alum4 ,aft] #bd h\rs x is tak5 out ( ! ba? & dri$ )\t wa%+4 ,a weld ba? is prep>$ ) #a p>ts weld to #a ( cotton1 & ! cotton dipp$ 9 till ! %ade is got4 ,x is !n work$ 9 a ba? ( sulphate ( copp] 7 copp] to #a ( cotton7 = #a h\rs4 ,x is next ?r[n1 )\t wa%+1 into a boil+ solution ( :ite soap 7 soap to #a cotton74 ,x is boil$ = #a h\r1 !n wa%$ & dri$4 #c74 ,,deep ,,yell[ ,,= ,,cotton ,,or ,,l954 #b p>ts ( weld = #a ( cotton1 ) a little copp] sulphate add$ to ! ba?4 ,! cotton is well work$ 9 ?is till ! cotton has ! desir$ col\r4 ,x is !n tak5 out & a little soda ley is p\r$ 94 ,x is return$ & work$ 9 ?is = h\r1 !n wa%$ & dri$4 #d74 ,,old ,,gold ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant ) #b *rome & dye ) #fj ( weld 9 a sep>ate ba?4 #c ( *alk adds to ! int5sity ( col\r4 #e74 ,,yell[ ,,= ,,wool4 ,boil wool ) #d ( alum = #a to #b h\rs1 & dye 9 a sep>ate ba? ( #ej to #ajj weld = #bj m9utes to an h\r at #ij;,c4 #f74 ,,yell[ ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant ) alum & t>t>1 & dye ) #e or #f lbs4 ( weld = e lb4 ( wool4 ,common salt deep5s ! col\r4 ,if alum is add$ to ! dye ba?1 ! col\r becomes pal] & m lively4 ,sulphate ( iron incl9es x to br[n4 #g74 ,,weld ,,yell[ ,,= ,,silk4 ,"w ! silk 7#a lb47 = an h\r 9 a solution ( alum1 #a lb4 to ! gallon1 wr+ out & wa% 9 w>m wat]4 ,boil #b lbs4 weld = h\r2 /ra9 & "w ! silk 9 ?is = h\r4 ,add #a p9t alum solution to ! weld ba? & return ! silk2 "w t5 m9utes1 wr+ out & dry4 ,,old ,,fu/ic4 ,fu/ic is ! wood ( ,morus t9ctoria1 a tree ( ,c5tral ,am]ica4 ,x is us$ pr9cipally = wool4 ,x does n produce a fa/ dye = cotton4 ,) ,bi*romate ( ,pota% z mordant1 ,old ,fu/ic gives old gold col\r4 ,) alum x gives yell[1 incl9+ to lemon yell[4 ,! brighte/ yell[s are got f x by mordant+ ) ,t94 ,) copp] sulphate x yields olive col\rs4 7#d to #e copp] sulphate & #c to #d t>t>74 ,) f]r\s sulphate1 d>k] olives are obta9$ 7#h f]r\s sulphate74 ,= silk x does n produce z bright yell[s z weld1 b c be us$ = v>i\s %ades ( gre5 & olive4 ,prolong$ dye+ %\ld always be avoid$1 z ! yell[s are apt to become br[ni% & dull4 ,! *ips %\ld be ti$ up 9 a bag & boil$ = h\r be=e us+4 ,x is /ill bett] to soak ! wood ov]-night1 or boil up 9 a small vessel & /ra9 into ! dye ba?4 ,! proportion ( ,fu/ic to be us$ = a good yell[ is #e to #f p>ts to #af p>ts ( wool4 ,,recipes ,,= ,,dye+ ,,) ,,old ,,fu/ic4 #a74 ,,old ,,gold ,,= ,,wool4 ,boil ! wool ) #c to #d ,*rome = #a to #a h\rs4 ,wa%1 & dye 9 a sep>ate ba? = #a to #a h\rs at #ajj;,c4 ) #bj to #hj ( ,old ,fu/ic4 #b74 ,,light ,,yell[ ,,= ,,silk4 ,"w ! silk = to h\r at #ej to #fj;,c4 9 a ba? conta9+ #af alum & a decoction ( #h to #af ( old ,fu/ic4 ,= d>k yell[ ! silk is mordant$ ) alum1 wa%$ & dy$ = ab\t an h\r at #ej;,c41 ) #ej to #ajj ( ,fu/ic4 ,! col\r c be made fa/] & bright] by work+ ! silk 9 a cold solution ( nitro-muriate ( ,t9 = an h\r4 #c74 ,,bright ,,yell[ ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant wool ) #h ( /ann\s *loride = #a to #a h\rs1 & #h ( t>t>4 ,wa%1 & dye ) #bj to #dj ( ,fu/ic at #hj to #ajj;,c4 = #cj to #dj m9utes4 #d74 ,,old ,,gold ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant #f lbs4 7#ajj oz47 wool ) #c oz4 *rome1 = h\r & wa%4 ,dye ) #bd oz4 ,fu/ic #d oz4 madd] = #de m9utes4 #e74 ,,yell[ ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant #f lbs4 wool ) #c oz4 *rome1 = h\r & wa%4 ,dye ) #f oz4 ,fu/ic1 #b dra*ms logwood4 ,boil h\r4 #f74 ,,bright ,,yell[ ,,= ,,wool4 7,s+le ba? me?od74 ,fill ! dye ba? full ( wat]1 add #b oxalic acid1 #h /ann\s *loride1 #d t>t> & #dj p] c5t4 ( ,fu/ic4 ,boil up = #e or #aj m9utes1 !n fill ! ba? ) cold wat]4 ,put 9 ! wool heat up ! ba? to boil+ 9 ! c\rse ( to #a h\r1 boil = h\r4 #g74 ,,yell[ ,,= ,,wool4 7,s+le ba?74 #d /ann\s *loride1 #d oxalic acid & #ej ,fu/ic4 #h74 ,,yell[ ,,= ,,silk4 7#e lbs47 ,"w ! silk ?r\gh an alum solution ( #a lb4 to a gallon ( wat]4 ,wa% 9 w>m wat]4 ,boil #b lbs4 ,fu/ic = h\r 9 wat] & 9 ?is "w ! silk = h\r4 ,lift & add #a p9t ( ! alum solution4 ,"w #aj m9utes long]1 !n wa% & dry4 #i74 ,,fu/ic ,,yell[ ,,= ,,silk4 7#e lbs47 ,alum ! silk4 ,boil up #c lbs4 ,fu/ic & "w silk 9 x :ile hot = h\r4 ,lift1 add #b oz4 r$ spirits4 ,"w = #ae m9utes4 ,wa% out 9 cold wat]4 ,"w #aj m9utes 9 a soap solution4 ,wr+ out & dry4 #aj74 ,,buff ,,col\r ,,on ,,wool4 7#de lbs47 ,boil #d lbs4 ,fu/ic & #a lbs4 madd]4 ,add #g lbs4 alum & boil up toge!r4 ,all[ to cool a little1 ent] wool & boil = h\r4 #aa74 ,,yell[ ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant ) alum & t>t>4 ,solution ( t9 increases ! col\r2 salt makes x deep]4 #e or #f oz4 ,fu/ic = e p\nd ( wool4 ,,turm]ic ,turm]ic is a p[d] obta9$ f ! gr\nd up tub]s ( ,curcuma t9ctoria1 a plant f\nd 9 ,india & o!r ,ea/]n c\ntries4 ,x gives a brilliant orange yell[1 b x has little p]man5ce4 ,x is "o ( ! sub/antive col\rs & does n ne$ any mordant4 ,cotton has a /rong attraction = x1 & is simply dy$ by work+ 9 a solution ( ,turm]ic at #fj;,c4 = ab\t h\r4 ,) silk & wool x gives a bright] col\r if mordant$ ) alum or t94 ,boil+ %\ld be avoid$4 ,x is us$ sometimes = deep5+ ! col\r ( ,fu/ic or ,weld1 b its use is n recomm5d$ z al?\gh x gives v beautiful col\rs1 x is a fugitive dye4 ,z ,b]?ollet says ,! %ade aris+ f ! ,turm]ic is n long ( disappe>+ 9 ! air4 ,,qu]citron4 ,qu]citron is ! inn] b>k ( ! ,qu]cus nigra or ,q4 t9ctoria1 a species ( oak gr[+ 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates & ,c5tral ,am]ica4 ,x 0 fir/ introduc$ into ,engl& by ,bancr(t 9 #agge z a *eap sub/itute = weld4 ,he says1 ,! wool %\ld be boil$ = ! space ( #a or #a h\rs ) "o six? or "o eigh? ( its weight ( alum2 !n )\t be+ r9s$1 x %\ld be put into a dye+ vessel ) clean wat] & also z _m p\nds ( p[d]$ b>k 7ti$ up 9 a bag7 z !re 7 us$ ( alum to prep>e ! wool1 :i* is to be !n turn$ 9 ! boil+ liquor until ! col\r appe>s to h tak5 suffici5tly3 & !n ab\t #a lb4 clean p[d]$ *alk = e #ajj lbs4 ( wool may be mix$ ) ! dye+ liquor & ! op]ation cont9u$ #h or #aj m9utes long]1 :5 ! yell[ w h become bo? light] & bright] by ?is addition ( *alk4 ,,qu]citron ,,= ,,silk4 ,bancr(t4 #a to #b lbs4 ( b>k to e #ab lbs4 silk accord+ to %ade requir$4 ,! b>k1 ti$ up 9 a bag1 %\ld be put into ! dye+ vessel :il/ ! wat] is cold1 z soon z x gets w>m ! silk1 previ\sly alum$1 %\ld also be put 9 & dy$ z usual4 ,a little *alk %\ld be add$ t[>ds ! end ( ! op]ation4 ,a little murio sulphate ( t9 is us$ :]e m lively %ades ( yell[ are want$4 ,boil at ! rate ( #d lbs4 b>k to e #c lbs4 ( alum #b lbs4 murio sulphate ( t9 ) a suitable quantity ( wat]1 = #aj to #ae m9utes4 ,r$uce ! heat s t ! h& c be> x1 put 9 ! silk & dye till x has acquir$ ! %ade4 ,by add+ suitable proportions ( sulphate ( indigo to ?is yell[ liquor & keep+ x well /irr$1 v>i\s & beautiful %ades ( ,saxon gre5 may be dy$4 ,by dissolv+ diff]5t proportions ( copp]as or copp]as & alum 9 ! w>m decoction ( b>k1 silk may 9 ! same way be dy$ ( all ! diff]5t %ades ( olive & drab col\rs4 ,,= ,,cotton ,,& ,,l954 ,soak ! y>n 9 a liquor made by dissolv+ ( its weight ( alum 9 ! necess>y wat]1 to :i* x w be highly advantage\s to add at ! rate ( #a lb4 pota% or #aj oz4 *alk = e #f or #g lbs4 alum4 ,! y>n is tak5 out & dri$ well3 be+ aft]w>ds r9s$1 x is to be dy$ 9 cold liquor made by boil+ #a lbs4 ( ! plant = ea* lb4 ( y>n1 :i*1 aft] hav+ receiv$ a suffici5t body ( col\r1 is to be tak5 out ( ! dye+ liquor & soak$ = an h\r & m 9 a solution ( sulphate ( copp] 7blue vitriol7 conta9+ at ! rate ( #c or #d oz4 = e p\nd ( y>n3 x is !n remov$ )\t be+ wa%$1 put into a boil+ solution ( h>d soap1 conta9+ #c or #d oz4 soap = ea* p\nd ( y>n4 ,/ir well & boil = ab\t h\r or m4 ,!n wa% & dry4 ,& aga91 take a suffici5t quantity ( acetate ( alum9a4 ,?is is made by dissolv+ #c lbs4 alum 9 a gallon ( hot wat]1 !n add+ #a lb4 sug> ( lead1 /irr+ well = #b or #c days1 aft]w>ds add+ ab\t #b oz4 pota% & #b oz4 p[d]$ *alk1 7c>bonate ( lime71 mix ) w>m wat] & soak l95 or cotton well 9 ?is = #b h\rs1 keep+ w>m2 squeeze out1 dry2 soak aga9 9 mordant1 squeeze2 dry2 soak 9 lime wat]1 dry2 ?is mordant+ & lim+ c be repeat$ if a fa/ yell[ is requir$3 x %\ld !n be well wa%$4 #ab to #ah lbs4 ( ,qu]citron b>k1 = e #ajj lbs4 cotton or l951 is ti$ up 9 a bag & put 9 cold wat]1 & slightly heat$4 ,! cotton is put 91 /irr+ = an h\r to an h\r & a half :ile ! wat] gets w>m3 !n ! liquor is heat$ to boil+ po9t & ! cotton boil$ a few m9utes only4 ,sl[ rais+ to boil+ po9t gives ! be/ col\r4 ,in/ead ( us+ acetate ( alum9a1 ! cotton c be impregnat$ ) "s a/r+5t su* z galls or myrobalans 7#a lb4 9 #b or #c gallons ( wat] ) a little soda74 ,mac]ate ! cotton an h\r or two 9 ?is & dry1 !n a solution ( alum 7#h lbs4 alum1 #a lb4 *alk1 9 #f gallons ( wat]7 soak cotton #b h\rs1 & dry1 !n soak 9 lime wat] & dry4 ,second "t 9 alum & dry4 ,!n wa% & dye sl[ly 9 ! ,qu]citron4 ,?is is a la/+ yell[ = cotton or l954 ,,o!r ,,yell[ ,,dyes4 ,root ( ! dock1 b>k ( ! ,a% tree1 leaves ( ! almond1 pea* & pe> trees1 all give good yell[ dyes1 m or less f9e accord+ to ! "t !y are boil$ & 9 proportion to ! ,t>t> & alum us$4 ,a prop] quantity ( alum br+s ^! yell[s to ! beautiful yell[s ( ! weld4 ,if ! ,t>t> is 9 great] quantity1 ^! yell[s w bord] on ! orange1 if too mu* boil$ !y take br[n %ades4 ,f a dye+ book1 #aggh4 ,,b>b]ry4 ,! roots & b>k ( ,b]b]is ,vulg>is1 us$ pr9cipally = silk dye+1 )\t a mordant4 ,! silk is work$ at #ej to #fj;,c4 9 a solution ( ! dye wood slightly acidifi$ ) sulphuric1 acetic or t>t>ic acid4 ,= d>k %ades1 mordant ) /ann\s *loride4 ,,dy]s ,,broom4 ,g5i/a t9ctoria4 ,! plant gr[s on wa/e gr\nd4 ,x %\ld be pick$ 9 ,june or ,july dri$4 ,x c be us$ ) an alum & t>t> mordant & gives a good bright yell[4 ,x is call$ gre5+ we$ & us$ to be mu* us$ = gre5+ blue wool4 ,,privet ,,leaves1 ,ligu/rum vulg>e1 dye a good fa/ yell[ ) alum & t>t>4 ,,hea!r4 ,mo/ ( ! hea!rs make a yell[ dye1 b ! "o *iefly us$ is ! ,l+1 ,calluna vulg>is4 ,! tips are ga!r$ j be=e fl[]+4 ,!y are boil$ 9 wat] = ab\t half an h\r4 ,! wool1 previ\sly mordant$ ) alum1 is put into ! dye ba? ) ! liquor1 :i* has be5 /ra9$4 ,x is !n cov]$ up closely & left till ! morn+4 ,or ! wool c be boil$ 9 ! hea!r liquor till ! desir$ col\r is obta9$4 ,,recipes3--#a74 ,,yell[ ,,= ,,wool4 ,= #f lbs4 mordant ) #e oz4 alum = #a h\r & wa%4 ,boil up #h oz4 hea!r twigs1 leaves & fl[]s4 ,ent] ! wool & boil = #a h\r4 ,wa% 9 cold wat] dry4 #b74 ,,gold5 ,,yell[ ,,= ,,wool4 ,= #f lbs4 mordant ) #c oz4 bi*romate ( pota% = h\r4 ,wa% 9 cold wat]4 ,dye ) #ej oz4 hea!r & boil = #de m9utes4 ,,*apt] ,,ix4 ,,br[n ,,& ,,black4 ,,cate*u4 ,,ald] ,,b>k4 ,,suma*4 ,,walnut4 ,,peat ,,soot4 ,,logwood1 ,,& ,,o!r ,,dyes ,,cate*u4 ,cate*u1 7,cut*7 is an old ,indian dye = cotton4 ,x c be us$ = wool1 & gives a f9e ri* br[n4 ,x is obta9$ f ! wood ( v>i\s species ( ,areca1 ,acacia1 & ,mimosa trees4 ,bombay ,cate*u is consid]$ ! be/ = dye+ purposes4 ,cate*u is soluble 9 boil+ wat]4 ,x is l>gely us$ by ! cotton dy] = br[n1 olive1 drab1 grey1 & black4 ,! ord9>y me?od ( dye+ cut* br[n on cotton is to /eep ! cotton 9 a hot solution ( cate*u1 conta9+ a small addition ( copp] sulphate1 & leave x 9 ! solution = sev]al h\rs4 ,to #g or #h gallons ( wat] put #a lb4 cate*u & boil till all is dissolv$1 !n add #a to #b ozs4 ( sulphate ( copp] & /ir4 ,x is !n put into a boil+ *rome ba? 7#c7 = h\r4 ,= deep %ades ! dye+ & *rom+ op]ations are repeat$4 ,) alum mordant$ cotton1 ! col\r is a yell[i% br[n1 ) t9 x becomes /ill yell[]4 ,) iron x is br[ni% or gre5i% grey4 ,:5 cate*u only is us$1 a d>k] %ade ( br[n is got by add+ to ! cate*u #f ( its weight ( copp] sulphate4 ,:5 mordants are us$1 !y may be appli$ be=e or aft] ! *rome ba?1 ! cotton be+ work$ 9 _! cold solution4 #a74 ,,cate*u ,,br[n ,,= ,,cotton4 7#aj lbs47 ,"w ! cotton at a boil+ heat = #b h\rs1 or /eep = sev]al h\rs 9 a cool liquid1 9 #b lbs4 cate*u4 7,to ea* #g or #h gallons ( wat] put #a lb4 ( cate*u1 & boil till all is dissolv$1 !n add #b oz4 sulphate ( copp] & /ir74 ,wr+ out & !n "w = h\r 9 a hot solution ( *rome1 #f oz4 ,wa% 9 hot wat]4 ,if soap is add$ ! col\r is improv$4 ,any dep? ( col\r c be got by repeat+ ! op]ations4 #b74 ,,br[n ,,= ,,cotton4 ,soak cotton 9 w>m wat]4 ,boil = h\r 9 a solution ( cate*u1 9 ! proportion ( #a oz4 ( cate*u to #e oz4 ( cotton4 ,put x into a #c solution ( *rome = h\r & boil4 ,!n repeat ^! two op]ations till ! col\r is obta9$4 ,!n boil 9 a ba? ( ,fu/ic4 #c74 ,,br[n ,,= ,,cotton4 7#ajj lbs47 ,boil #bj lbs4 cate*u 9 wat]3 dissolve 9 ! liquid #aj lbs4 alum & let x settle3 ent] ! y>n into ! hot liquid & aft] work+ well take out & ent] into a fre% ba? ( boil+ wat] ) #d lbs4 ( *rome4 ,r9se & s(t5 ) oil & soap4 #d74 ,,cream ,,col\r ,,= ,,cotton ,,) ,,cate*u4 7#aa lbs74 ,boil out oz4 ( cate*u 9 wat]1 & dissolve #b lbs4 #c oz4 curd soap 9 ! cle> liquid4 ,ent] ! cotton at #aij ,f4 & "w = an h\r4 #e74 ,,cate*u ,,fa/ ,,br[n4 7#ej lbs47 ,/eep y>n ov]-night 9 a decoction ( #aj lbs4 cut*4 ,lift "w 9 a hot solution ( *rome1 r9se dry4 #f74 ,,light ,,fa/ ,,cate*u ,,br[n ,,= ,,cotton4 7#ej lbs47 ,boil #bj lbs4 cate*u 9 "o boil] & #e lbs4 *rome 9 ano!r4 ,ent] 9 ! cate*u ba? fir/1 "w #bj m9utes1 & wr+ out3 !n ?r\gh ! *rome #aj m9utes1 & wr+ out4 ,?r\gh cate*u aga91 !n *rome4 ,repeat ?is till d>k en\gh1 f9i%+ ) cate*u4 #g74 ,,light ,,cate*u ,,br[n ,,= ,,cotton4 7#bj lbs74 #c lbs4 ( cate*u & #c oz4 copp] sulphate1 boil up1 & put into a ba? ( w>m wat]4 ,ent] cotton & "w = h\r2 wr+ out4 ,9 ano!r ba? ( hot wat] dissolve #h oz4 ( *rome4 ,ent] cotton :5 boil+1 & "w = h\r4 ,!n wa%4 #h74 ,,cate*u ,,black ,,= ,,cotton4 ,"w ! cotton 9 a hot decoction ( cate*u1 all[+ x to /eep 9 ! ba? till cold1 !n "w x 9 a cold solution ( iron4 ,wa%1 & dye 9 a cold or tepid ba? ( logwood1 & f9ally pass ?r\gh a solution ( *rome4 #i74 ,,cate*u ,,br[n ,,= ,,wool4 ,! wool is boil$ = #a to #a h\rs1 ) #aj to #bj cate*u1 !n sadd5 ) #b to #d ( copp] sulphate1 f]r\s sulphate1 or *rome1 at #hj to #ajj;,c41 9 a sep>ate ba? = h\r4 #aj74 ,,cate*u ,,/one ,,drab4 7#aj lbs4 cotton74 ,"w ! cotton = h\r ) #b p9ts cate*u 7#a lb4 cate*u to #g or #h gallons wat]2 boil & add #b oz4 copp] sulphate7 9 hot wat]1 lift & add #b oz4 copp]as 9 solution4 ,"w = h\r & wa%4 ,add #b oz4 logwood to a ba? ( w>m wat] "w cotton 9 ?is = #aj m9utes4 ,lift & add oz4 alum4 ,"w #aj m9utes2 wr+ out & dry4 ,,ald] ,,b>k ,! b>k & twigs ( ald] are us$ = dye+ br[n & black4 ,= #a lb4 wool use #a lb4 ald] b>k4 ,boil ! wool ) x = #b h\rs1 :5 x %\ld be a dull r$di% br[n4 ,add oz4 copp]as = e p\nd ( wool = black4 ,,suma* ,suma* is ! gr\nd up leaves & twigs ( ! ,rhus cori>ia gr[+ 9 ,s\!rn ,europe4 ,x dyes wool a yell[ & a yell[ br[n1 b x is *iefly us$ 9 cotton dye+4 ,,walnut ,! gre5 %ells ( ! walnut fruit & ! root are us$ = dye+ br[n4 ,! husks are collect$ :5 ! fruit is ripe1 put into a cask & cov]$ ) wat]4 ,9 ?is way !y c be kept = a ye> or m2 x is said ! long] !y are kept ! bett] col\r !y give4 ,)\t a mordant ! col\r is q fa/1 b if ! wool is mordant$ ) alum a bright] & ri*] col\r is got4 ,:5 us$ !y are boil$ 9 wat] = h\r1 !n ! wool is ent]$ & boil$ till ! col\r is obta9$4 ,long boil+ is n good z x makes ! wool h>%4 ,x is mu* us$ z a sadd5+ ag5t2 t is = d>k5+ o!r col\rs4 ,william ,morris says3-- ,! be/ & mo/ endur+ blacks 7 done ) ?is simple dye /uff1 ! goods be+ fir/ dy$ 9 ! indigo or woad vat till !y 7 a v d>k blue1 & !n br[n$ into black by means ( ! walnut root4 99 99 99 99 99 ,( all ! +r$i5ts us$ = ! br[n dye1 ! walnut r9d is ! be/4 ,its %ades are f9]1 its col\r is la/+1 x s(t5s ! wool1 r5d]s x ( a bett] quality1 & easi] to "w4 ,to make use ( ?is r9d1 a copp] is half fill$1 & :5 x beg9s to gr[ luke-w>m1 ! r9d is add$ 9 proportion to ! quantities ( /uffs to be dy$ & ! col\r int5d$4 ,! copp] is !n made to boil1 & :5 x has boil$ a qu>t]-(-an-h\r1 ! /uffs :i* 7 be=e dipp$ 9 w>m wat]1 are put 94 ,!y are to be /irr$ & turn$ until !y acquire ! desir$ col\r4--,james ,haigh1 #agig4 ,,peat ,,soot gives a good %ade ( br[n to wool4 ,boil ! wool = #a to #b h\rs ) peat soot4 ,c>eful wa%+ is requir$ 9 sev]al *anges ( wat]4 ,x is us$ sometimes = produc+ a hazel col\r1 aft] ! wool has be5 dy$ ) weld & madd]4 ,,oak ,,b>k4 ,mordant ) alum & dye 9 a decoction ( oak b>k4 ,,onion ,,sk9s4 7,br[n47 ,mordant ! wool ) alum & a little cay5ne pepp]4 ,boil x up lightly & keep w>m = #f days4 ,dry+ #b or #c times 9 betwe5 makes ! col\r m durable4 ,dry4 ,boil a quantity ( onion sk9s1 & cool2 !n put 9 wool & boil lightly = half-an-h\r to an h\r2 !n keep w>m = a :ile4 ,wr+ out & wa%4 ,,madd] = ,,br[n4 7,= #b lbs4 wool74 ,mordant ) #b oz4 copp]as & #b oz4 cream ( t>t>4 ,dye ) madd]4 ,,madd]1 ,,etc41 = ,,fr5* ,,br[n4 7,= #ej lbs4 wool47 ,mordant ) #a lbs4 *rome4 ,dye ) #f lbs4 ,fu/ic1 #a lb4 madd]1 lb4 cudbe>1 #a lb4 ,t>t>4 ,if n d>k en\gh add #h oz4 logwood4 ,boil = h\r4 ,wa% & dry4 ,,= ,,black ,,?read4 7,f an old ,dut* book on ,dye+4 #aehc74 ,take a quantity ( brok5 or bruis$ galls & boil !m 9 wat] 9 a small pot & :5 !y h a little boil$1 take out all ! galls & put into ! same pot s mu* ,copp]as z ye _h ( galles & put !re) a little gumme ( ,arabic & !n give x aga9 ano!r boil+4 ,s let x boil a little1 & ) ! said dye ye %all col\r !re9 y\r ?read1 !n take x =? & ye %all see x a fair %9+ black4 ,,tan ,,%ade4 7= #f lbs4 wool74 ,mordant ) #c oz4 ,*rome = #de m9utes & wa% 9 cold wat]4 ,boil = h\r1 9 a bag1 #e oz4 madd]1 #d oz4 ,fu/ic1 oz4 logwood4 ,ent] ! wool1 raise to ! boil1 & boil = #de m9utes4 ,by alt]+ ! proportions ( madd] fu/ic v>i\s %ades ( br[n c be got4 ,a ,,good ,,black = cotton1 7#bj lbs47 to /& mill+ & sc\r+4 ,/eep all night ) #f lbs4 ( ,suma*1 pass ?r\gh lime liquor & sadd5 ) copp]as2 repeat 9 ea* ( ! la/ #b tubs1 add+ m lime & copp]as to ea*4 ,pass ?r\gh logwood & wa%4 ,s(t5 ) a little oil & soda a%4 ,a ,,good ,,black = cotton1 7#bj lbs47 ,9 a tub ( cold wat] add #e lbs4 suma*1 give a few turns & let x /eep 9 x all night2 !n 9 ano!r tub ( cold wat] add a few pails ( lime wat]1 wr+ out2 9 ano!r tub add #b lbs4 dissolv$ copp]as & a pailful ( old ,suma* liquor4 ,ent]1 give #f turns1 wr+ out4 ,9 lime tub put two pails m lime liquor4 ,scald #b lbs4 logwood1 #a lb4 ,fu/ic 9 wat]2 ent] cotton1 give #aj turns1 sadd5 ) a little copp]as 9 ! same liquor4 ,s(t5 ) a little oil & soda a%4 ,,black ,,= ,,l95 ,,& ,,cotton4 ,! y>n is fir/ ( all sc\r$ 9 ! ord9>y way1 gall$1 alum$1 & !n turn$ ?r\gh a ba? ( weld4 ,x is !n dy$ 9 a decoction ( logwood to :i* "o f\r? "p ( sulphate ( copp] mu/ be add$ = "o "p ( y>n4 ,x is !n wa%$4 ,x is dy$ 9 a ba? made ) "o "p ( madd] = two ( y>n4 ,! y>n is !n turn$ ?r\gh a ba? ( boil+ soap wat]1 wa%$ & dri$4 ,,doesk9 ,,black4 7,= #ajj lbs4 wool47 ,camwood #h4 ,boil = #ej m9utes4 ,!n add ,*rome #c1 ,alum #a1 ,argol #a4 ,boil = #ej m9utes1 take out ( dye & all[ to /& ov]night4 ,dye 9 #de logwood1 #h ,fu/ic1 #d ,sumac4 ,boil = #a h\rs1 wa% & dry4 ,a fa/ p]man5t col\r4 ,,gre5 ,,black ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant ) #b ,*rome & #be ,sulphuric acid4 ,boil #a h\rs2 & leave ov]-night4 ,dye ) #dj logwood1 & #aj ,fu/ic4 ,boil #a h\r4 ,wa%4 ,,br[ni% ,,black ,,= ,,wool4 7,= #a lb47 ,mordant ) #c p] c5t4 ,*rome4 ,dye ) #b oz4 ,fu/ic1 #b oz4 logwood1 #a oz4 madd]1 & #a oz4 copp]as4 ,,br[n ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant #b h\rs ) alum2 dye ) p9e ne$les 7l>*7 collect$ 9 ,autumn :5 !y drop4 ,,black is obta9$ f ! :ole plant ( ,spirea ,ulm>ia1 b especially ! root4 ,x is ga!r$ !n dri$ 9 ! sun1 & a /rong decoction made by boil+ = "s h\rs1 7a l>ge h&ful to #c p9ts ( wat]74 ,aft] x has boil$ sl[ly = #b to #c h\rs1 /ale ur9e is add$ to supply ! loss by evaporation4 ,!n set aside to cool4 ,! clo? to be dy$1 is rubb$ /rongly ) bog iron ore1 previ\sly r\gh5$ & moi/5$ ) wat]4 ,x is !n roll$ up & boil$ 9 ! decoction4 ,?is is ( a brilliant black4 ,a f9e black is said to h be5 =m]ly obta9$ f ! roots ( ,angelica ,sylve/ris4--7,edmon/one on ! ,native ,dyes ( ! ,%etl& ,isl&s1 #ahda47 ,william ,morris says2 #ag;,black is be/ made by dye+ d>k blue wool ) br[n2 & walnut is bett] ?an iron = ! br[n "p1 because ! iron-br[n is apt to rot ! fibre2 z y w see 9 "s pieces ( old tape/ry1 or old ,p]sian c>pets1 :]e ! black is q p]i%$1 or at lea/ 9 ! case ( ! c>pet--gone d[n to ! knots4 ,all int]m$iate %ades ( fle% col\r c be got by means ( weak ba?s ( madd] & walnut sadd5+2 madd] or co*9eal mix$ ) weld gives u orange1 & ) sadd5+ 7walnut7 all imag9able %ades betwe5 yell[ & r$1 includ+ ! amb]s1 maize-col\r1 etc4 ,f a ,dye ,book ( #agje4--;,black may be comp>$ to ,night & ,dea?1 n only because all o!r col\rs are deep5$ & buri$ 9 ! ,black ,dye1 b t z ,dea? puts an end to all ,evils ( ,life1 tis necess>y t ! ,black ,dye %\ld rem$y ! faults ( o!r col\rs1 :i* h be5 occasion$ by ! defici5cy ( ! ,dy] or ! ,dye1 or ! *ange ( ,fa%ion accord+ to ! times & caprice ( man4 ,,footnote3 #ag--;,= o!r recipes = ,black1 see ,*apt] ,,vi on ,logwood4 ,,*apt] ,x4 ,,gre5 ,gre5 results f ! mix+ ( blue & yell[ 9 v>y+ proportions accord+ to ! %ade ( col\r requir$4 ,b]?ollet says3-- ,_m diff]5t plants are capable ( af=d+ gre5 col\rs2 su* z1 ! field broom grass1 ,bromus secal9us2 ! gre5 b]ries ( ! b]ry be>+ ald]1 ,rhamnus frangula2 wild *]vil1 ,*rophyllum silve/re2 purple clov]1 ,trifolium prat5se2 common re$1 ,arundo phragmites2 b ^! col\rs h no p]man5ce4#ah ,hellot says3--,x is impossible to obta9 m ?an "o col\r f a mixture ( blue & yell[1 :i* is gre52 b ?is col\r compreh5ds an inf9ite v>iety ( %ades1 ! pr9cipal ( :i* are ! ,yell[ gre51 ! ,light gre51 ! ,gay gre51 ! ,grass gre51 ! ,laurel gre51 ! ,molequ9 gre51 ! ,deep gre51 ! ,sea gre51 ! ,celadon gre51 ! ,p>rot gre51 &1 ,i %all add1 ! ,duck-w+ gre51 & ! ,celadon gre5 ) ,blue4 ,all ^! %ades & ! int]m$iate ones are made aft] ! same mann] & ) ! same ease4 ,! /uff or wool dy$ blue1 light or d>k1 is boil$ ) ,alum & ,t>t>1 z is usually done to make :ite /uff yell[1 & !n ) ,weld1 ,savory1 or ,gre5+ ,wood4 ,! ,weld & ! ,savory are ! two plants t af=d ! f9e/ gre5s4 ,ano!r old ,dye book says3-- ,if y w\ld dye y\r goods gre51 y mu/ fir/ dye !m yell[ ) ,broom or ,dy]'s ,we$1 o!rwise ,yell[ ,we$2 aft] :i* put !m into ! ,blue vat4 ,e dy] has 8 p>ticul> yell[ we$ ) :i* he gre5s 8 blue dy$ /uff4 ,b ! be/ gre5s are und\bt$ly got f weld & fu/ic4 ,! wool is dy$ fir/ 9 ! blue vat2 !n wa%$ & dri$2 !n aft] mordant+ dy$ 9 ! yell[ ba?4 ,?is me?od is n arbitr>y z "s dy]s consid] a bett] gre5 is got by dye+ x yell[ be=e ! blue4 ,b ! fir/ me?od produces ! fa/e/ & brighte/ gre5s z ! alum+ aft] ! blue vat cle>s ! wool ( ! loose p>ticles ( indigo & seems to fix ! col\r4 ,if a bright yell[ gre5 is want$1 !n mordant ) alum aft] ! indigo ba?2 if olive gre51 !n mordant ) *rome4 ,! wool c be dy$ blue = gre5 9 #c diff]5t ways3--#a/4 9 ! indigo vat 7see page #fh et seq472 #bnd4 ) ,indigo ,extract 7see pages #fe-fg72 #crd4 ) logwood1 ! wool hav+ be5 previ\sly mordant$ ) *rome 7see p4 #hb1 ,no4 #g1 & p4 #he ,no4 #ag74 ,= a good bright gre51 dye ! wool a r light blue1 !n wa% & dry2 gre5 x ) a good yell[ dye1 su* z weld or fu/ic1 v>y+ ! proportion ( ea* accord+ to ! %ade ( gre5 requir$4 ,hea!r tips1 dy]'s broom1 dock roots1 popl> leaves1 saw wort are also good yell[s = dye+ gre54 ,if ,indigo ,extract is us$ = ! blue1 fu/ic is ! be/ yell[ = gre5+1 its col\r is less affect$ by ! sulphuric acid ?an o!r yell[s4 ,bancr(t gives _m recipes = dye+ gre5 ) qu]citron4 ,he says3-- ,wool :i* has be5 fir/ prop]ly dy$ blue 9 ! common indigo vat may be made to receive any ( ! v>i\s %ades ( gre5 :i* are usually giv5 9 ?is way f weld1 by boil+ ! blue wool 7aft] x has be5 well r9s$7 9 wat]1 ) ab\t "o eigh? ( its weight 9 alum1 & aft]w>ds dye+ x unr9s$ ) ab\t ! same quantity ( ,qu]citron b>k & a little *alk :i* %\ld be add$ t[>ds ! end ( ! process4 ,9 ! same way clo? t has previ\sly receiv$ ! prop] %ade ( ,saxon blue1 may be dy$ to a beautiful ,saxon gre53 x w be prop] to add ab\t #c lbs4 *alk ) #aj to #ab p\nds ( alum = ! prep>ation liquor = #ajj lbs4 weight ( wool :i* is to be turn$ & boil$ z usual = ab\t an h\r1 & !n )\t *ang+ ! liquor1 #aj or #ab lbs4 ( ,qu]citron b>k1 p[d]$ & ti$ up 9 a bag1 may be put into x1 & ! dye+ cont9u$4 ,:5 ! dye+ has cont9u$ ab\t #ae m9utes1 x w be prop] to add ano!r lb4 ( p[d]$ *alk1 /irr+ x well 91 & to repeat ?is addition once1 twice or ?ree times at int]vals ( #f or #h m9utes4 ,! *alk does n m]ely answ] ! purpose ( decompos+ ! acid left 9 ! wool by ! sulphate ( indigo1 b x helps to raise ! col\r & to r5d] x m durable4 ,accord+ to ,bancr(t1 ,qu]citron is ! yell[ above all o!rs = dye+ gre5s4 ,he says3-- ,! mo/ beautiful ,saxon gre5s may be produc$ v *eaply & exp$iti\sly by comb9+ ! lively yell[ :i* results f ,qu]citron b>k1 murio sulphate ( t9 & alum1 ) ! blue af=d$ by indigo :5 dissolv$ 9 sulphuric acid1 z = dye+ ! ,saxon blue4 ,= a full bodi$ gre5 he says #f or #h lbs4 ( p[d]$ b>k %\ld be put into a dye+ vessel = e hundr$ lbs4 wool ) a simil> quantity ( wat]4 ,:5 x beg9s to boil1 #f lbs4 murio-sulphate ( t9 %\ld be add$ 7) ! usual precaution7 & a few m9utes aft]w>ds #d lbs4 alum3 ^! hav+ boil$ #e or #f m9utes1 cold wat] %\ld be add$1 & !n z mu* sulphate ( ,indigo z ne$$ = ! %ade ( gre5 to be dy$1 /irr+ ?or\ghly4 ,! wool is !n put into ! liquor & /irr$ briskly = ab\t h\r4 ,x is be/ to keep ! wat] j at ! boil+ po9t4 ,,recipes ,,= ,,dye+ ,,gre54 #a74 ,,bottle ,,gre5 ,,= ,,silk ,,) ,,fu/ic4 7#e lbs47 ,dissolve #b lbs4 alum & #a lb4 copp]as 9 wat]2 "w ! silk 9 ?is = h\r2 wa% 9 w>m wat]4 ,"w = an h\r 9 a decoction ( #f lbs4 ,fu/ic4 ,lift1 & add #b oz4 ,indigo ,extract4 ,"w #bj m9utes4 ,wa% & dry4 #b74 ,,gre5 ,,= ,,wool ,,) ,,fu/ic4 lb4 ( wool is mordant$ ) oz4 *rome & oz4 ,cream ( ,t>t> = an h\r to #a h\r4 ,soak ov]night 9 wat]1 #c oz4 ,fu/ic & #b oz4 logwood1 & boil = #b h\rs4 ,/ra91 & ent] wool4 ,boil = #b h\rs4 #c74 ,,gre5 ,,= ,,l95 ,,) ,,l>* ,,b>k4 ,mordant #d lbs4 l95 ) lb4 alum4 ,boil = #b h\rs2 wr+ out b d n dry4 ,boil up a quantity ( l>* b>k & boil l95 9 ?is = #b h\rs4 #d74 ,,fu/ic ,,gre5 ,,= ,,wool4 7#ej lbs47 ,mordant wool ) #aa lbs4 alum4 ,soak #ej lbs4 ,fu/ic ov]-night1 & boil up4 ,ent] ! wool & boil = half-an-h\r or m4 ,add ,extract ( ,indigo 9 small quantities at a "t1 till ! desir$ col\r is got4 #e74 ,,saxon ,,gre5 ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant ! wool ) alum & t>t> = half-an-h\r2 x is !n tak5 out & air$1 b n wa%$4 ,! ba? is refre%$ ) cold wat]1 & half ! am\nt ( ! solution ( ,indigo :i* is to be us$ is well mix$ 94 ,! wool is ent]$ & rapidly /irr$ = #e or #f m9utes1 )\t boil+4 ,x is tak5 out & ! re/ ( ! ,indigo solution is well mix$ 94 ,! wool is put 9 & boil$ = t5 m9utes2 !n tak5 out & cool$4 ,! ba? is !n ?ree-qu>t]s empti$ & fill$ up ) a decoction ( fu/ic4 ,:5 ! ba? is v hot1 ! wool is put 9 until ! desir$ %ade ( gre5 is got4 #f74 ,,gre5 ,,) ,,qu]citron ,,= ,,wool4 ,dye ! wool blue 9 ! ,indigo vat4 ,wa% well4 ,= #ajj p>ts ( wool1 put #c p>ts ( *alk & #aj or #ab ( alum4 ,boil ! wool 9 ?is = #a h\r4 ,!n to ! same ba?1 add #aj or #ab p>ts ( ,qu]citron1 & cont9ue ! boil+ = h\r4 ,!n add #a "p ( *alk1 & ?is addition is repeat$ at int]vals ( #f to #h m9utes till a f9e gre5 col\r is br\ght out4 #g74 ,,gre5 ,,) ,,qu]citron ,,= ,,cotton4 ,fir/1 ! cotton is dy$ a sky blue col\r by means ( indigo dissolv$ by pota% & orpim5t2 !n x is pass$ ?r\gh a /rong decoction ( suma*1 9 :i* x is left until well cool$4 ,x is !n dri$1 pass$ ?r\gh ! mordant ( acetate ( alum9a1 dri$ aga91 wa%$1 work$ = #b h\rs 9 tepid ba? ( ,qu]citron1 7#bf lbs4 to #aaj lbs4 cotton74 #h74 ,,gre5 ,,) ,,indigo ,,extract ,,weld ,,= ,,wool4 ,mordant #a lb4 wool ) #d oz4 alum & oz4 cream ( t>t>4 ,dye blue ) suffici5t quantity ( ,indigo ,extract4 ,wa% & dry4 ,prep>e a dye ba? ) weld :i* has be5 previ\sly *opp$ up & boil$4 ,ent] wool & boil = half-an-h\r or m4 ,,footnote3 #ah ,note page #db on ,briti% plants :i* dye gre54 ,,app5dix ,,li*5s ,,us$ ,,= ,,dye+ ,,wool ,,br[n4 ,cont9u$ f page #fb ,s4 scrobiculata4 ,aik-raw1 ,oak rag4 ,f\nd on trees 9 ,scotl& & ,engl&4 ,gyrophora deu/a4 ,scor*$ look+ gyrophora4 ,f\nd on rocks 9 ,sc&9avia4 ,l9nu /ates t x furni%es a pa9t call$ ,t\s*1 mu* us$ 9 ,sw$54 ,g4 cyl9drica4 ,cyl9drical gyrophora4 ,on rocks 9 ,icel&4 ,gre5i% br[n4 ,also ,g4 deu/a4 ,alectoria jubata4 ,horse hair li*51 ,rock hair4 ,on fir trees 9 ,engl&1 pale gre5i% br[n4 ,p>melia p>iet9a4 ,common yell[ wall li*51 ,wg-mssa1 ,wag-laf4 ,engl& & ,sw$5 on trees1 rocks1 walls1 pal+s4 ,us$ to dye ,ea/] eggs4 ,us$ 9 ,sw$5 = wool dye+4 ,cetr>ia junip]9a4 ,en-mossa4 ,on trees 9 ,sc&9avia4 ,borr]a flavicans4 ,yell[ borr]a4 ,on trees 9 ,g]many1 gamboge yell[4 ,lecanora c&el>ia4 ,ljus mssa4 ,on trees 9 ,sw$54 ,ev]nia flavicans4 ,wolf's-bane ev]nia4 ,on trees 9 ,sc&9avia1 gamboge yell[4 ,lecidea atro-vir5s4 ,map li*54 ,on rocks 9 ,sc&9avia4 ,lepr>ia *lor9a4 ,brim/one col\r$ lepr>ia4 ,sc&9avia1 on rocks4 ,l4 ,ioli?us4 ,viol-mssa4 ,sw$51 on /ones4 ,gives to /ones ! appe>ance ( blood /a9s4 ,,bibliography ,pr(4 ,g4 ,h5sl[4 ,uses ( ,briti% ,plants4 ,dr4 ,pl[right4 ,briti% ,dye ,plants4 7,j\rnal ( ! ,royal ,horticultural ,society1 ,vol4 #bf4 #aija47 ,s[]by4 ,useful ,plants ( ,great ,brita94 ,s[]by4 ,engli% ,botany4 ,pr(essor ,g4 ,s4 ,b\lg]4 ,! ,uses ( ,plants4 #ahhi4 ,alfr$ ,edge4 ,"s ,briti% ,dye ,li*5s4 7,j\rnal ( ! ,society ( ,dy]s & ,col\ri/s4 ,may #aiad74 ,j4 ,j4 ,hummel4 ,! ,dye+ ( ,textile ,fabrics4 ,clem5t ,bolton4 ,a ,manual ( ,wool ,dye+4 #aiac4 ,w4 ,crooks4 ,dye+ & ,tissue ,pr9t+4 #ahhb4 ,rawson1 ,g>d9] & ,laycock4 ,a ,diction>y ( ,dyes1 ,mordants1 #aija4 ,james ,haigh4 ,! ,dy]'s ,assi/ant4 #aggh4 ,james ,napi]4 ,a ,manual ( ,dye+ ,receipts4 #ahee4 ,james ,napi]4 ,a ,manual ( ! ,art ( ,dye+4 #ahec4 ,a ,pr(itable ,boke4 7,on ,dye+74 ,translat$ f ! ,dut*4 #aehc4 ,d>w9 & ,meldola4 ,woad4 7,nature1 ,nov4 #ab1 #ahif74 ,mrs4 ,an/ru!r ,mackay4 ,simple ,home ,dye+4 ,engli% ,encyclopdia4 ,dye+4 #ahjb4 ,g>d9] ,d4 ,hiscock4 #bj? ,c5tury ,book ( ,recipes1 ,=mulas & ,processes4 #aijg4 ,f4 ,j4 ,bird4 ,! ,dy]'s ,h& ,book4 #ahge4 ,hur/4 ,silk ,dye+ & ,pr9t+4 7,te*nological ,h& ,book4 #ahib74 ,smi?4 ,practical ,dy]s' ,guide4 #ahdi4 ,t4 ,sims4 ,dye+ & ,blea*+4 7,briti% ,manufactur+ ,indu/ries4 #ahgg47 ,david ,smi?4 ,! ,dy]s' ,in/ructor4 #aheg4 ,! ,dy] & ,col\r ,mak]'s ,companion4 #ahei4 ,?omas ,love4 ,! ,practical ,dy] & ,sc\r]4 #ahed4 ,kne*t1 ,rawson & ,l[5?al4 ,a ,manual ( ,dye+4 #ahic4 ,b]?ollet4 ,! ,art ( ,dye+4 #ahbd4 ,george ,j>ma94 ,on ,wool ,dye+4 #f ,lectures4 #ahgf4 ,hellot1 ,macqu]1 ,m4 le ,pilleur ,d',apligny4 ,! ,art ( ,dye+ ,wool1 ,silk & ,cotton4 7,translat$ f ! ,fr5*1 #aghi4 ,new ,edition1 #aija47 ,! ,art ( ,dye+4 7,translat$ f ! ,g]man4 #agje4 ,repr9t #aiac47 ,r4 ,p4 ,milroy4 ,h&book on ,dye+ = ,wooll5 ,homespun ,work]s4 7,conge/$ ,di/ricts ,bo>d = ,irel&74 ,dr4 ,w4 ,l4 ,l9dsay4 ,on ! ,dye+ ,prop]ties ( ,li*5s4 7,ed9burgh ,new ,philosophical ,j\rnal1 #ahee74 ,t4 ,edmon/on4 ,on ! ,native ,dyes ( ! ,%etl& ,isl&s4 7,transactions ( ,botanical ,society ( ,ed9burgh1 ,vol4 ,i4 #ahda74 ,edw>d ,bancr(t4 ,! ,philosophy ( ,p]man5t ,col\rs4 #agid4 ,fran*eville4 ,on ,anci5t & ,mod]n ,dyes1 #agfg4 7,royal ,academy ( ,sci5ces1 ,b]l974 ,p>nell's ,appli$ ,*emi/ry4--,article on ,dye+4 ,william ,morris4 ,( ,dye+ z an ,art4 7,essays by ,memb]s ( ! ,arts & ,crafts ,exhibition ,society1 #aijc74 ,william ,morris4 ,! ,less] ,arts ( ,life4 7,f ,ar*itecture1 ,indu/ry & ,weal?4 #aijb74 ,brew/]'s ,ed9burgh ncyclopdia4 #ahcj4 ,dye+4 ,sansome4 ,dye+4 #ahhh4 ,john ,m4 ,?omson4 ,! ,practical ,dy]'s ,assi/ant4 #ahdi4 ,,gloss>y ,,& ,,index4 ,a4--,adjective dyes1 #bd4 ,dyes :i* require a mordant4 ,ald] b>k1 #dc1 #dd1 #ajj1 #abf4 ,aliz>94 ,! *ief col\r+ pr9ciple ( madd]4 ,x is also ! "n = an ext5sive s]ies ( *emical col\rs produc$ f an?rac5e1 "o ( ! coal t> hydroc>bons1 discvrd41 #ahfh4 ,alkal9e ley1 #bh4 ,almond1 #abj4 ,amb]1 #acb4 ,alum1 #bf-bi4 ,alum9ium sulphate1 #bf4 ,anil9e1 #c4 ,discov]$1 #ahbf 7ail1 ,span4 indigo74 ,fir/ prep>$ f indigo by means ( cau/ic pota%4 ,f\nd 9 coal 9 #ahcd4 ,manufactur$ on a l>ge scale aft] ,p]k9's discov]y ( mauve 9 #ahef4 ,anatta1 7,anotto1 ,arnotto1 ,r\c\71 #aaa4 ,a dye obta9$ f ! pulp surr\nd+ ! se$s ( ! ,bixa orellana2 *iefly us$ 9 dye+ silk an orange col\r1 b is ( a fugitive nature4 ,ar*il1 #eb1 #ec1 #ed4 ,argol1 #aca4 ,! t>t> deposit$ f w9es completely f]m5t$1 & adh]+ to ! sides ( casks z a h>d cru/4 ,:5 purifi$ x becomes ,cream ( ,t>t>4 ,a%1 #da1 #abj4 ,a/r+5ts1 #ai1 #bf4 ,b4--,b>b]ry1 #da1 #abj4 ,b>wood1 #fg1 #ajf4 ,beck4--,a l>ge vessel or tub us$ 9 dye+4 ,bi*romate ( ,pota%1 #cb4 ,bir*1 #ch1 #db1 #dc1 #ii1 #ajc4 ,black1 #abb-abc2 f logwood1 #gi-he4 ,black ,dye ,plants1 #dd4 ,blue1 #fc2 f ,indigo1 #ff-ge2 f li*51 #fa2 f logwood1 #gi-he4 ,blue black1 #ha4 ,blue ,dye ,plants1 #ci4 ,blue /one1 #cc4 ,blue vitriol1 #cc-cf4 ,bois de ,camp*e1 #gg4 ,bois jaune1 ,fu/ic1 yell[ wood4 ,brazil woods1 #ajf4 ,briti% ,dye ,plants1 #cg-dd4 ,broom1 #da1 #acd4 ,br[n1 #abb-acc2 f li*5s1 #de-di1 #ea1 #ef1 #eg1 #fj-fb1 #adj2 f madd]1 #ajb1 #ajf2 f weld1 #aab2 f woad1 #gf4 ,br[n ,dye ,plants1 #dc4 ,buff1 #aae4 ,c4--,campea*y ,wood1 #gg4 ,camwood1 #ajf1 #aca4 ,c>?amus4 ,saffl[]1 an annual plant cultivat$ 9 ,s4 ,europe1 ,egypt & ,asia = ! r$ dye f its fl[]s4 ,cate*u1 #cc1 #ce1 #cf1 #abb-f4 ,cau/ic ,soda4 ,c>bonate ( soda1 boil$ ) lime4 ,*e/nut1 #ce4 ,*rome1 #cb1 #cc4 ,c9namon1 #ajb4 ,cl>et1 #ea1 #hd4 ,coal ,t> ,col\rs4 ,col\rs obta9$ by di/illation & *emical treatm5t f coal t>1 a product ( coal dur+ ! mak+ ( gas4 ,!re are ov] #b1jjj col\rs 9 use4 ,co*9eal1 #ib-g1 #acb4 ,copp]1 #cc-e4 ,copp] sulphate1 #cc4 ,copp]as1 #bi1 #cj1 #abi4 ,corcur1 #ea4 ,cotton1 #ah2 ! dye+ (1 #ai2 )\t mordant1 #ba2 me?od 9 ,india1 #ai1 #bj2 ! mordant+ (1 #bf4 ,cream1 f cate*u1 #abd4 ,cream ( ,t>t>1 #bh-cb1 #cd4 ,see argol4 ,crimson1 #id-if1 #ajf2 f li*5s1 #di1 #fj4 ,crottle1 #df1 #ef-fj1 #fb4 ,cudbe>1 #de1 #eb1 #ed1 #ee1 #eg1 #eh1 #fg1 #he1 #abi4 ,d4--,det]g5t1 #ae4 ,a cleans+ ag5t4 ,dip4 ,g5]ally appli$ to imm]s+ clo? etc4 9 ! blue vat4 ,divi-divi1 #ce1 #cf4 ,! dri$ pods ( ,csalp9a cori>ia1 gr[+ 9 ! ,we/ ,indies & ,s4 ,am]ica4 ,!y conta9 #bj to #ce tann9 & a br[n col\r+ matt]4 ,dock1 #dj1 #dd1 #ej1 #fi1 #abj1 #ace4 ,drab1 #hj1 #aah1 #abf4 ,dy]'s ,broom1 #dj1 #aba1 #ace4 ,dy]'s ,_s1 #cb4 ,aqua =tis1 #aj p>ts2 ,sal ,ammoniac1 #e p>ts2 ,t91 #b p>ts2 dissolv$ toge!r4 ,dy]'s ,we$1 #dj1 #acd4 ,e4--,ent]4 ,to ent] wool1 to put x into ! dye or mordant liquor4 ,extract ( ,indigo1 #fe-fi4 ,f4--,felt+1 to prev5t1 #ae4 ,f5ugrec1 ,f5ugreek1 #ajg4 ,trigonnella fnugrcum4 ,f]r\s sulphate1 #bi4 ,flav94 ,a col\r+ matt] extract$ f qu]citron4 ,fleece1 v>i\s k9ds (1 #ac4 ,fle% col\r1 #acb4 ,full1 to4 ,to tread or beat clo? = ! purpose ( cleans+ & ?ick5+ x4 ,full]'s ,h]b4 ,sapon>ia (fic9alis4 ,a plant us$ 9 ! process ( full+4 ,full]'s ,?i/le or ,teasle4 ,dipsacus fullonum4 ,us$ = full+ clo?4 ,fu/et4 ,"y fu/ic4 ,v5etian ,suma*4 ,rhus cot9us4 ,x gives a f9e orange col\r1 :i* has n mu* p]man5ce4 ,fu/ic1 #aac-aaf1 #acj1 #aca1 #ace4 ,g4--,galls1 ,gall nuts1 #bf1 #abi4 ,oak galls produc$ by ! egg ( an insect1--! female gall wasp4 ,an excresc5ce is produc$ r\nd ! egg1 ! insect1 :5 develop$1 pi]ces a hole escapes4 ,^? gall nuts :i* are n pi]c$ conta9 mo/ tannic acid4 ,! be/ come f ,aleppo & ,turkey4 ,gramme or ,gram4 ,ab\t #ae gra9s 7,troy74 ,gre51 #acc-i2 ) fu/ic1 #acg-h2 ) weld1 #aci4 ,gre5 ,dye ,plants1 #db4 ,gre5 ,vitriol1 #bi4 ,gre5 wood1 #ajg1 #ajh1 #acd4 ,gre5+ we$1 #aba4 ,grey1 #fg1 #gi2 f logwood1 #hj1 #he4 ,h4--,hazel col\r1 #abh4 ,hea!r1 #dj1 #he1 #aba1 #ace4 ,i4--,icel& moss1 #ea1 #fa4 ,indigo1 #fc-ge1 #ace-aci4 ,indigo ,extract1 #fd-gj2 = gre51 #ace-aci4 ,iron1 #bi-cj4 ,k4--,k]mes1 #hg-ia4 ,kilo4 ,kilogramme4 ,equals #b lbs4 #cb oz4 ,korkalett1 #ej4 ,l4--,lac1 #ig1 #ih4 ,l>*1 #dc1 #aca1 #acg4 ,lav5d]1 #hd4 ,less] ,dye1 #gg1 #gi4 ,ley1 see lye4 ,li*51 #de-fb1 #adj4 ,lilac1 #ie1 #if1 #ig4 ,lima ,wood1 #ajf1 #ajg4 ,l951 #ba2 to blea*1 #bb2 ! mordant+ (1 #bf2 v>i\s k9ds (1 #ba4 ,litre1 #hj4 ,ne>ly #a p9ts4 ,lixiviation4 ,! process ( sep>at+ a soluble sub/ance f an insoluble by ! p]colation ( wat]4 ,lixivium4 7,lye74 ,a t]m (t5 us$ 9 old dye books4 ,wat] impregnat$ ) alkal9e salts extract$ by lixiviation f wood a%es4 ,logwood1 #gg1 #acj1 #aca1 #acg4 ,lye or ,ley4 ,any /rong alkal9e solution1 especially "o us$ = ! purpose ( wa%+1 su* z soda lye1 soap lye4 ,m4--,madd]1 #ch1 #ih-aje1 #acb4 ,mag5ta1 #dd4 ,maize1 #acb4 ,m]c]is$ ,cotton4 ,cotton prep>$ by treat+ ) a solution ( cau/ic pota% or soda or c]ta9 o!r *emicals4 ,discov]$ by ,john ,m]c] 9 #ahdd4 ,mill+4 ,! op]ation ( full+ clo?4 ,mordants1 #bd2 g5]al rem>ks on1 #cd2 primitive mordants1 #be4 ,muriate ( ,t91 #ca4 ,myrobalans1 #bf1 #ce1 #cf4 ,! fruit ( sev]al species ( trees1 gr[+ 9 ,*9a ! ,ea/ ,indies1 conta9+ tannic acid1 7#be-dj tann974 ,o4--,oak b>k1 #abh4 ,oak galls1 #ce1 #cf4 ,oil ( ,vitriol1 #fd1 #fe1 #fg4 ,sulphuric acid4 ,old ,fu/ic1 see ,fu/ic4 ,old ,gold1 #aji1 #aab-aad4 ,olive1 #aji1 #aac1 #aah1 #ace4 ,onion sk9s1 #abh4 ,orange1 #ia1 #ic1 #ajb1 #ajf1 #aji1 #abj1 #acb2 f li*5s1 #dh1 #ea1 #eh1 #fj-b4 ,or*il1 #de1 #eb-ee4 ,organz9e4 ,twi/$ raw silk f be/ cocoons1 us$ = w>p4 ,orseille1 #eh4 ,oxalic ,acid1 #cj1 #ca4 ,p4--,pa/el1 #gg4 ,woad4 ,pea*1 #abj4 ,pea* wood1 #ajf-ajg4 ,pe>1 #da1 #abj4 ,pe>l a%4 ,c>bonate ( ,pota%4 ,peat ,soot1 #abh4 ,p]sian ,b]ries4 ,! dri$ unripe fruit ( v>i\s species ( ,rhamnus4 ,also call$ ,fr5* b]ries1 ,gra9s ( ,avignon4 ,philamort1 #dh4 ,p9k1 #ic2 f li*51 #eg4 ,plum col\r1 f li*51 #dh4 ,popl>1 #db1 #ace4 ,potassium ,c>bonate4 7,pota%es74 ,c>bonate ( ,pota% has be5 kn[n s9ce anci5t times z a con/itu5t ( ! a%es ( l& plants1 f :i* x is obta9$ by extraction ) wat]4 ,9 mo/ cases ,sodium ,c>bonate1 :i* x /rongly resembles1 c be us$ 9 its place4 ,potassium di*romate1 #cb4 ,privet1 #ci1 #da1 #db1 #aba4 ,purple1 f li*5s1 #ec1 #eg-fj1 #fb2 ) co*9eal1 #ie1 #if2 ) logwood1 #hb1 #he1 #hf1 #hg4 ,purple ,dye ,plants1 #dc4 ,q4--,qu]citron1 #aaf-abj2 = gre51 #ace-acg4 ,r4--,r$1 #hg-ajg2 f li*5s1 #dh-ea1 #ec1 #ef1 #eh1 #fj4 ,r$ ,dye ,plants1 #ch4 ,r$ ,spirits4 ,t9 spirits4 ,appli$ to t9 mordants g5]ally4 ,a solution ( ,/ann\s *loride4 ,r$ woods4 ,camwood1 ,b>wood1 ,s&]swood 7,santal1 ,s&al1 ,r$ ,s&]s71 ,brazil wood1 ,sapan wood1 ,pea* wood4 ,rett+1 #ba4 ,r\c\4 ,anatta1 ,arnotto4 ,s4--,s&alwood or ,saund]swood1 #ajf4 ,sadd51 to1 sadd5+1 #ad1 #cj1 #cd1 #abg1 #acj1 #acb4 ,to d>k5 or dull 9 col\r4 ,sapan wood1 #ajf4 ,savory1 #ajg1 #ajh4 ,sawwort1 #da1 #ace4 ,saxon blue1 #fg1 #gj1 #acf4 ,! dye made by ,indigo dissolv$ 9 oil ( vitriol4 ,saxon gre51 #aah1 #acf1 #ach4 ,sc>let1 #hh1 #ia1 #ib1 #ic1 #id1 #ie1 #ig1 #ih4 ,sc>let ( ,gra91 #hg4 ,scot* ell4 #cgb in*es4 ,sc\r1 to4 ,to wa%4 ,scroop4 ,! ru/l+ prop]ty ( silk4 ,scrottyie1 #di1 #ej1 #ei4 ,silk1 #af-ah2 to alum1 #ah2 g5]al me?od ( dye+1 #ag2 to mordant1 #bf2 ! prep>ation (1 #ag2 to s(t51 #ah2 v>i\s k9ds (1 #af2 raw1 #af1 #ag2 wa/e1 #af4 ,silv] drab1 #hd4 ,sloe1 #ci4 ,soda a%4 ,c>bonate ( soda4 ,soda ley1 #aja4 ,s\r wat]1 #bh4 ,to e gallon ( wat]1 add #a gill vitriol2 /ir ?or\ghly4 ,/uff /eep$ 9 ?is %\ld be cov]$ ) ! liquor1 o!rwise x w rot4 7#b74 ,wat] 9 :i* bran has be5 made to gr[ s\r4 #bd bu%els ( bran are put 9 a tub1 ab\t #aj hog%eads ( ne>ly boil+ wat] is p\r$ into x2 acid f]m5tation soon beg9s1 & 9 #bd h\rs x is ready to use4 7#c74 ,?r[ "s h&fuls ( bran into hot wat] & let x /& = #bd h\rs1 or till ! wat] becomes s\r1 :5 x is fit = use4 ,/ann\s ,*loride1 #ca4 ,/aple1 #aa1 #ab4 ,a t]m appli$ to cotton & wool1 indicat+ l5g? ( fibre4 ,/uff+ & ,sadd5+1 #ad1 #cj4 ,sub/antive ,dye1 #bd1 #eb1 #fe1 #aaf4 ,a dye n requir+ a mordant4 ,sulphuric ,acid1 #fd1 #ff1 #fg1 #gj1 #abj1 #aca4 ,suma*1 #bf1 #ce1 #cf1 #abf4 ,leaves & twigs ( sev]al species ( ,rhus1 conta9+ ,tannic acid4 ,x is sold 9 ! =m ( cru%$ leaves or z a p[d]1 7#ae-bj tann974 ,t4--,tannic ,acid1 #bf1 #ce4 ,tann91 #ce1 #cf4 ,t91 #ca1 #cb4 ,t9 cry/als1 #ca4 ,t9 salts1 #ca4 ,tram4 ,slightly twi/$ raw silk1 us$ = weft4 ,turkey ,r$1 #ii4 ,turm]ic1 #aaf4 ,turquoise1 #fi4 ,tyrian purple4 ,a purple col\r obta9$ f c]ta9 %ell fi%1 su* z ,bucc9um ,purpura4 ,x is m5tion$ by ,pl9y z be+ discov]$ 9 #adjj ,b4,c4 ,x 0 a lo/ art 9 ! middle ages4 ,v4--,valonia1 #ce4 ,acorn cups ( c]ta9 species ( oak f ,s4 ,europe1 conta9+ #be-ce ( tannic acid4 ,vegetable alkali4 ,pota%4 ,v]digris1 #cc4 ,acetate ( copp]4 ,violet1 #hf1 #id1 #ajc4 ,vitrum1 #gf4 ,w4--,walnut1 #dc1 #abg1 #acb4 ,wat] = dye+1 #bc4 ,weld1 #ajg-aab1 #abj1 #acj1 #acd1 #ace4 ,wet out1 to4 ,to damp1 be=e putt+ ! y>n or clo? into ! dye4 ,woad1 #ci1 #ge-gg4 ,wool1 #aa2 to blea*1 #af2 to cleanse1 #ae1 #af2 long /aple wool1 #ab2 v>i\s k9ds (1 #aa1 #ab1 #ac4 ,wool ,dye+1 g5]al me?ods1 #ac-af4 ,y4--,y>n1 to s(t51 #af4 ,yell[1 #ajg-abb2 f li*5s1 #ea1 #eg1 #adj2 f suma*1 #abf4 ,yell[ ,dye ,plants1 #ci4 ,yell[ ,we$1 #acd4 ,yell[ ,wood1 #ajg4 ,,errata page #ei4 ,rock ,urcol>ia %ld4 be ,rock ,urceol>ia4 page #fa4 ,fl[]+ lusnea %ld4 be ,fl[]+ ,usnea4 page #add4 7pr9t$ )\t be+ correct$74 ,add3--,ald] b>k1 #dc1 #dd1 #ajj1 #abf4 ,almond1 #abj4 ,amb]1 #acb4 ,argol1 #aca4 ,a%1 #da1 #abj4 ,b>wood1 #fg1 #ajf4 ,correct3-- au?rac5e to an?rac5e anie to ail ,r\con to ,r\c\ sorr\nd+ to surr\nd+ ,pr9t$ by ,d\glas ,pepl] at ,dit*l+ ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,wood ,,cut ,,illu/ration ,,f ,,! ,,devil',s ,,devices 7see adv]t47 ,,books ,publi%$ by ,,d\glas ,,pepl] ,,at ,,! ,,hamp%ire ,,h\se ,,work%ops ,,hamm]smi? ,,cottage ,,economy ,,by ,,william ,,cobbett ) an ,,introduction ,,by ,g4 ,k4 ,,*e/]son ,price #bs4 #f;d4 net 7,po/age #c;d47 ,a ,,repr9t ( a ,,/&>d ,,"w ,:i* %\ld be ( use1 9 ^! days1 to ,_m beside ,cottag]s4 ,a ,,c>ol ,,& ,,o!r ,,rhymes ,by ,,edw>d ,,john/on ,price #as4 net4 7,po/age #b;d47 ,a ,,book ,,on ,,vegetable ,,dyes ,by ,,e!l ,m4 ,,mairet ,price #es4 net 7,po/age #d;d47 ,,! ,,devil',s ,,devices or ,control v]sus ,s]vice by ,,d\glas ,,pepl]1 ) ,wood-cut ,illu/rations by ,eric ,gill4 ,price #bs4 #f;d4 net4 ,! fir/ #bjj copies w be numb]$ & sign$4 ,price #cs4 #f;d4 net4 ,?is book conta9s an acc\nt ( a c9ematograph ent]ta9m5t 9 ,satan's ,circuit2 a crafty devil2 & an appreciation ( ,no4 #bg1 an ,engli% work+-man4 ,,! ,,review]s ,,on ,,! ,,devil',s ,,devices4 ,,:at ,,w ,,!y ,,say ,,next8 ,b we believe t ! effect ^u mo/ p w be :at x c]ta9ly is ^u "o read]1 :o is ,,n ,,9 ,,! ,,lea/ ,,%ock$1 b is consid]ably ,,bor$4 --,c4 ,o4 ,review4 ,a v]se may f9d him :o a s]mon flies1 & !re is likely to be "h & !re "o1 :o see+ 9 a booksell]'s w9d[ ! r$ cov] & ! black1 ! v black1 c>t !reon1 w incont95tly pur*ase4 --,! ,new ,witness4 ,8 argum5ts are closely logical :5 he *ooses to make !m s1 ?\gh _! sequ5ce & arrangem5t are bewild]+ly haphaz>d4 --,! ,h]ald4 ,! :ole effect is ( a hot*-pot* compos$ 9 a lunatic asylum2 & ! pictures seem madd] ?an ! lett]press4444 ,mu* to ! irritation ( my wife1 = supp] 0 wait+1 ,i read on till ,i _h read ! book "r ?r\gh4444 ,! mad au?or ( ?is book is ,d\glas ,pepl]1 ! mad arti/ is ,eric ,gill4 ,:5 ,i say mad ,i am1 = ! mom5t1 tak+ x = grant$ t ! _w is sane4-- ,lab\r ,lead]4 99 99 99 99 99 7& s on v nicely = sev]al columns47-- ,l& & ,wat]4 ,! drama is skilfully unfold$ 7?\gh ! au?or fails ov] ! spell+ ( ,nietzs*e1 page #bi7 & int]sp]s$ ) wood-cuts 444 & a /ill m excell5t acc\nt ( ! pass+ ( ! poor man's p>l\r4 ,! ,cambridge ,magaz9e4 ,! au?or has m>k$ ) ! toe ( 8 boot ! moral weakness on :i* ! ,devil dep5ds = 8 p[] ov] ! mod]n _w4-- ,r$ ,fea!r4 ,mr4 ,pepl] p]petually ,,drops into dialogue ) ,,fatal ,,results4 ,new ,age4