,,mod]n ,,design ,,9 ,,jewell]y ,,& ,,fans ,,edit$ ,,by ,,*>les ,,holme ,,(fices ,,( ',,! ,,/udio1' ,,london1 ,,p>is1 ,,new ,,york ,,mcmii ,,prelim9>y ,,note ,,john ,,rusk9 has laid d[n "s broad & simple rules :i* are especially applicable to ,,design ,,9 ,,jewell]y ,,& ,,fans4 ,he says1 ,nev] enc\rage ! manufacture ( any article n absolutely necess>y1 9 ! production ( :i* inv5tion has no %>e4 ,&1 aga91 ,nev] enc\rage imitation1 or copy+ ( any k9d1 except = ! sake ( pres]v+ records ( great works4 ,x is 9 ! ?or\gh belief ( ! s\ndness or ^! pr9ciples t ! ,editor has select$ a numb] ( repres5tative mod]n examples ( design by ,briti% & ,cont95tal work]s1 :i*1 f _! beauty & fre%ness ( treatm5t1 be> te/imony to ! great advance t has rec5tly be5 made 9 ! "r und]/&+ & r5d]+ ( ! jewell]'s & fan-mak]'s arts4 ,if articles ( good ta/e are to be produc$1 !re mu/ be a dem& = !m4 ,s long z a public is to be f\nd t w pur*ase tr9ketry 9 imitation ( :eel-b>r[s1 cocks & h5s1 fl[]-pots1 & moons & />s1 s long w ! advance 9 art be ret>d$4 ,! ,editor has pleasure 9 ackn[l$g+ ! c\rtesy ( ! own]s ( copyrights = _! k9dness 9 sanction+ ! reproduction ( important "w2 & 8 be/ ?anks are due to all ! arti/-contributors1 & especially to ^? :o h made designs expressly = ?is publication4 ,table ( ,lit]>y ,cont5ts ,,mod]n ,,fr5* ,,jewell]y ,,& ,,fans ,by ,gabriel ,m\rey ,,mod]n ,,briti% ,,jewell]y ,,& ,,fans ,by ,aym] ,vallance ,,mod]n ,,au/rian ,,jewell]y ,by ,w4 ,fr$ ,,mod]n ,,g]man ,,jewell]y ,by ,*r4 ,f]d9& ,morawe ,,mod]n ,,belgian ,,jewell]y ,,& ,,fans ,by ,f4 ,khnopff ,,mod]n ,,dani% ,,jewell]y ,by ,georg ,bro*n] ,,li/ ,,( ,,craftsm5 ,,& ,,design]s ,,fr5* ,,section ,aub]t1 ,flix plate #ce ,bck]1 ,e4 plate #ae ,b+1 ,m>cel plates #be1 #bf ,b\*]on plates #ab1 #ac1 #ad ,cauv9 plate #ab ,colonna plates #be1 #bf ,desbois1 ,jules #af1 #ag1 #ah ,dufrne #bh1 #cc ,feure1 ,georges de #a1 #ce ,follot1 ,paul #ai1 #bh ,f\quet1 ,g4 plates #g1 #h1 #i1 #aa ,grasset1 ,e4 plate #aj ,hirtz1 ,l4 plates #ab1 #ac1 #ad ,l',art ,n\veau plates #be1 #bf ,lalique1 ,r5 plates #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1 #f ,lamb]t1 ,?4 #cb1 #cc1 #cd ,la ,maison ,mod]ne plates #ai1 #bg1 #bh1 #bi1 #cj1 #cc1 #ce ,mangeant1 ,e4 plates #bc1 #bd ,monvel1 de1 ,*4 ,b\tet #ba1 #bb ,mu*a plate #g ,orazzi plates #bg1 #bh1 #bi1 #cj ,ri*>d1 ,paul plates #ad1 #ae ,rivaud1 ,*>les plate #ca ,templi]1 ,p4 plates #cb1 #cc1 #cd ,v]g]1 ,f]d9& 7,editeur7 plates #ad1 #ae ,vev] plates #ac1 #ai1 #bj ,,briti% ,,section ,alaba/]1 ,annie plate #dh ,alaba/]1 ,m4 #cd ,all51 ,kate plates #ai1 #bi1 #ca1 #cc1 #ch ,angus1 ,*ri/9e plate #ab ,arscott1 ,a4 ,e4 #bi ,a%bee1 ,c4 ,r4 plates #ag1 #ah1 #bj1 #ba ,bak]1 ,oliv] #ce1 #cf ,b>rie1 ,b4 ,j4 #ai1 #ca1 #cd ,brangwyn1 ,frank plate #h ,br[n1 ,e4 ,may #bi ,cook1 ,?omas ,a4 plates #ae1 #bd ,cond]1 ,frank plates #b1 #e1 #f1 #g ,dawson1 ,nelson plate #ad ,dawson1 ,edi? #ad ,dick1 ,reg9ald ,t4 plate #a ,ev]s-,sw9dell1 ,nora plates #cd1 #ej1 #eb ,fell1 ,h4 ,granville plate #aa ,fi%]1 ,kate plates #be1 #cg ,gask91 ,ar?ur ,j4 #dd1 #de ,guild ( ,h&icraft plates #ag1 #ah1 #bj1 #ba ,hammett1 ,lydia ,c4 plate #i ,h>t1 ,doro?y #cd ,hodgk9son1 ,e!l ,m4 plates #ci1 #ej1 #eb ,hodgk9son1 ,w9ifr$ plates #bi1 #cj1 #ci1 #eb ,k+1 ,jessie ,m4 plate #af ,l>combe1 ,e!l plates #aj1 #cd ,mc,bean1 ,isabel #bi1 #dg ,mack9to%1 ,c4 ,r4 plate #dc ,mack9to%1 ,m>g>et ,macdonald plate #dc ,mc,leish1 ,annie plates #bh1 #bi1 #cb1 #cd1 #ci1 #ej ,mc,leish1 ,m9nie plates #cd1 #dg ,mc,nair1 ,frances #ba1 #bb1 #db ,mc,nair1 ,j4 ,h4 #bb1 #bc ,morris1 ,talw9 #dj1 #da1 #db ,naylor1 ,myra #c1 #d ,pickett1 ,edi? #be1 #di ,rank91 ,arabella #ea ,rob9son1 ,f4 ,s4 #df ,simpson1 ,edg> #bf1 #bg1 #cf ,syrett1 ,nellie #ac1 #ae ,talbot1 ,j4 ,m4 plate #ea ,veazey1 ,david plates #ai1 #cd1 #ci1 #dh1 #ej ,,au/rian ,,section ,fis*mei/]1 ,h]r plates #b1 #c ,gr+old1 ,emil plate #g ,hauptmann1 ,franz #d ,h(/ett]1 ,josef plates #a1 #e ,holz+]1 ,e4 plate #h ,mesm]1 ,f4 plates #a1 #h ,pruts*]1 ,otto plates #a1 #e1 #f ,roset1 ,h]r #b1 #c ,s*n?on]1 ,v4 plate #a ,s*w>tz1 ,pr(4 #e ,ung]1 ,elsa plates #g1 #h ,wagn]1 ,anna plate #h ,,g]man ,,section ,fahrn]1 ,!odor plates #c1 #h ,gos51 ,!odor von plate #e ,hirzel1 ,h4 ,r4 ,c4 #d ,ko*1 ,rob]t #a ,loew5?al1 ,d4 & ,m4 plates #b1 #c1 #h ,mhr+1 ,bruno plate #f ,morawe1 ,c4 ,f]d9& plate #g ,olbri*1 ,joseph ,m4 plates #b1 #c1 #h ,v]e+te ,w]k/aett51 ,muni*1 plate #e ,w]n]1 ,f4 ,h4 #f ,w]n]1 ,l\is #d ,,belgian ,,section ,cassi]s1 ,h4 plate #a ,dubois1 ,paul #i ,van ,/rydonck1 ,l4 plate #b ,wolf]s1 ,ph4 plates #c1 #d1 #e1 #f1 #g1 #h ,,dani% ,,section ,b9desbll1 ,?4 plate #h ,boll91 ,moy5s plates #f1 #g1 #h ,magnuss51 ,erick plates #b1 #e1 #f ,slott-,mll]1 ,h4 plates #a1 #b1 #c1 #d ,,mod]n ,,fr5* ,,jewell]y ,,fans4 ,,by ,,gabriel ,,m\rey4 ,illu/ration ,fr5* sup]iority 9 ! art ( jewell]y seems to be inconte/able to-day4 ,no unbias$ obs]v] w d5y ! fact t ) u !re is m ri*ness1 m v>iety1 m orig9ality ?an c be f\nd else:]e2 & ! jewell]y section 9 ! ,esplanade des ,invalides at ! ,exhibition ( #aijj %[$ to ! :ole _w ! progress made 9 ?is special bran* ( appli$ art by our craftsm5 & our arti/s2 %[$1 too1 ! v]ve1 ! imag9ation1 ! fancifulness1 :i* are ! special prop]ty ( ! ,fr5* race 9 all t relates to articles ( luxury1 to ^? ?+s :i* are ess5tially useless1 if s we may t]m a woman's adornm5ts2 if s we may reg>d ! beauty ( preci\s /ones1 ( enamels skilfully & subtly =m$--( all t1 9 a ^w1 :i*1 tak5 f ,nature's inf9ite treasure-h\se1 s]ves to con/itute t adorably va91 t exquisitely sup]flu\s ?+--! jewel4 ,rusk9 once rem>k$1 9 8 /range1 p5etrat+ way1 t ! lovelie/ ?+s are ^? :i* are ! lea/ useful--lilies & peacocks' fea!rs1 = in/ance4 ,fur!rmore1 to depreciate ! "p play$ by jewell]y 9 relation to decorative art w\ld be equival5t to m9imis+ ! rle ( womank9d 9 civilisation4 ,!n1 aga91 z reg>ds decoration or adornm5t1 has n ! highe/ mission devolv$ on woman8 ,has %e n _h to assume ! mo/ active "p 9 x all8 ,! mod]n jewell]y vogue has1 ,i am conv9c$1 done m 9 ,france to propagate new ideas 9 ! way ( decorative art ?an all ! /hetic !ories ev] evolv$1 h[ev] s\nd4 ,"o might say mu*1 might make _m reflections on ?is r5asc5ce ( ! jewell]'s art1 z manife/$ at ! pres5t mom5t 9 ,p>is4 ,?is revival reveals itself ri* & abundant--p]haps too ri* & abundant2 b :at ( ! future8 ,:at fruit w x be> :5 ! glam\r ( t :i* x has already borne has pass$ away8 ,is !re no dang] ( see+ good int5tions misc>ry--high gifts fall+ into excesses injuri\s to ! prosp]ity ( ! movem5t8 ,is n ! new fa%ion--if x be m]ely a fa%ion--be+ adopt$ ) too mu* en?usiasm1 foll[$ ) too mu* ard\r1 to la/8 ,is !re no fe> ( a reaction8 ,"h are sev]al que/ions to :i* we _c reply ) any c]ta9ty4 ,yet1 :at matt]8 ,among ! works produc$ dur+ ! pa/ five ye>s or s--t is1 s9ce ! full expansion ( ! movem5t--!re are _m :i*1 by _! orig9ality1 _! te*nical p]fection1 des]ve to rema94 ,& rema9 !y c]ta9ly w1 to be> witness to ! audaci\s fancy1 ! creative faculty ( our arti/s1 & z a sort ( passionate homage laid by ! m5 ( to-day at ! feet ( ! ,et]nal ,fem99e4 99 99 99 99 99 ,! "n ( ,m4 ,r5 ,lalique arises in/9ctively z soon z "o beg9s to discuss ! mod]n jewel4 ,he is ! r5ovator1 or1 pref]ably1 ! creator1 ( ! art z we "k x n[adays1 & "o c easily und]/& ! en?usiasm & ! admiration ar\s$ by 8 "w4 ,m4 ,lalique is almo/ z celebrat$ z ,m4 ,edmond ,ro/&2 & he at lea/ des]ves 8 celebrity1 = he is a real1 a v great1 arti/4 ,& su* he mu/ inde$ be to be able to make "o =get 8 imitators1 _m ( ^: productions are z dete/able z copies c be4 ,at times ev5--mo/ unju/ly1 ,i admit--"o almo/ comes to hate ! art ( ,m4 ,lalique himself1 s p]si/5tly is x badly imitat$4 ,"o has be5 con/ra9$ be=e n[ to hate ,raphael1 on see+ a ,cabanel or a ,b\gu]eau6 ,b en\gh ( t6 ,! jewels by ,m4 ,lalique n[ reproduc$ are r diff]5t1 bo? 9 conception & 9 treatm5t1 f 8 usual mann]4 ,"h he appe>s z a m direct obs]v] ( ,nature1 m devot$ to simplicity & bread?4 ,8 new combs1 ) pansy & sycamore-leaf motifs1 9 horn & silv]--especially ! exquisite "o ) sycamore se$s 9 horn1 silex1 black enamel1 & obsidian1 ) gold5 insects "h & !re--%[ him /ill anxi\s to ext5d ! field ( 8 exp]im5ts1 nev] tir$ ( seek+ fre% subjects & te/+ new mat]ials4 ,in/ead ( rema9+ /ation>y & fall+ asleep at 8 po/1 he is spurr$ by a desire = conque/1 & %[s himself ev] f]tile 9 imag9ation1 ( inf9ite fancy1 con/antly advanc+1 ) undim9i%$ fre$om & orig9ality4 ,at ! ,univ]sal ,exhibition ! works execut$ by ,m4 ,vev]1 9 collaboration ) ,m4 ,eugne ,grasset1 obta9$ ! success t 0 _! due4 ,b ! mo/ important piece ( "w a*iev$ by ^! two arti/s 0 n f9i%$ at t "t4 ,i ref] to ! sumptu\s & h]oic p5dant ( ,h]cules1 :i* we are =tunate en\gh to be able to reproduce "h f ! orig9al wat]-col\r by ,m4 ,grasset4 ,x is truly an admirable "w1 "o 9 :i* all ! imag9ative & te*nical qualities possess$ by ! illu/rator ( ! ,quatre ,fils ,aymon are to be se5 9 pr(usion4 ,:at ri*ness1 :at di/9ction 9 ! details2 :at p]fection ( balance1 bo? 9 design & 9 col\r+6 ,z = ! execution by ! firm ( ,vev]1 !y des]ve z mu* cr$it = x z if !y _h produc$ an orig9al "w4 ,?is is a jewel wor?y to f9d a p]man5t place 9 "o ( ! great ,european gall]ies1 to rank side by side ) ! wond]ful productions ( ! pa/4 ,m4 ,georges ,f\quet is a mo/ d>+ fantaisi/e1 & 8 creations impress "o by qualities altoge!r diff]5t f ^? ( ! ,,mm4 ,vev]4 ,he might p]haps be said to belong to ! ,lalique s*ool1 n t he imitates him1 b by reason ( 8 imag9ative gifts4 ,he is g5]ally complicat$1 some:at ,byzant9e1 & ?or\ghly mod]n 9 any case4 ,"s ( 8 jewels w\ld1 ,i ?9k1 ga9 by be+ less ri*2 nev]!less1 !y are v int]e/+1 & !y des]ve all ! success !y h won4 ,! *ief objection t c be urg$ aga9/ !m is _! lack ( spontaneity4 ,m4 ,georges ,f\quet c]ta9ly holds a =emo/ place 9 ! new movem5t4 ,already 8 production is consid]able4 ,altoge!r an arti/ ( r>e gifts & spl5did audacity4 ,i h always _h a lik+ = ! jewell]y ( ,m4 ,colonna--= "s ( x1 at any rate1 t :i* is mo/ simple1 mo/ orig9al1 & mo/ we>able4 ,8 works h ?is great *>m 9 my eyes1 t !y are nei!r %[-case jewels nor m]e bij\x de p>ade1 ?+s int5d$ solely = display4 ,z a rule1 !y are quiet & practical4 ,9 mo/ cases !y h no subject1 be+ simply happy comb9ations ( l9es & curves & reliefs1 ! imprvu ( :i* has a p>ticul> *>m4 ,m4 ,m>cel ,b+1 all ( ^: productions1 l ^? ( ,m4 ,colonna1 are ! monopoly ( ! ,art ,n\veau ,b+1 has done "s delightful ?+s4 ,"o c see t he is /ill some:at timid & hesitat+1 b 8 ta/e is sure1 & he has an imag9ation :i*1 if n specially abundant1 is at lea/ delicate & f9e4 ,he has a s5se ( col\r too1 & 8 pretty fancies are c>ri$ out ) evid5t delight4 ,la ,maison ,mod]ne1 s actively direct$ by ,m4 ,mei]-,graefe1 has produc$ a l>ge numb] ( jewels4 ,ord9>ily ! designs are suppli$ by ,,mm4 ,maurice ,dufrne1 ,paul ,follot1 & ,orazzi4 ,( c\rse1 !y are n ( uni=m m]it1 b ?is 9 no way dim9i%es ! int]e/ atta*+ to _! ef=ts4 ,!y are m>r$ to "s ext5t1 x mu/ be admitt$1 by c]ta9 extravagances1 b ev5 t is bett] ?an a relapse into ! old =mul1 or ! pr(itless reproduction ( ! bad models :i* 7 ! rage "s ?irty ye>s s9ce4 ,moreov]1 ,la ,maison ,mod]ne--all praise to x6--has br\ght )9 ! rea* ( ! public quantities ( jewell]y :i*1 )\t be+ ma/]pieces ( conception or execution1 are yet ?or\ghly good "w bas$ on excell5t pr9ciples ( novelty & fre%ness4 ,!y are :at may be t]m$ popul> jewels4 ,! works design$ by ,m4 ,?odore ,lamb]t1 & execut$ by ,m4 ,paul ,templi]1 are ( altoge!r diff]5t "*4 ,9 ^! days1 :5 excessive complications 9 jewel-"w are s g5]al & s mu* e/eem$1 ^! r+s1 necklaces & plaques1 ) _! symmetrical l9e> designs 9 mono*rome or r$di% or gre5i% metal1 reliev$ at times by pe>ls only1 & ) _! =mal aj\rem5ts1 w d\btless seem to _m p too simple or too commonplace4 ,x w be ju/ly urg$ aga9/ !m t !y are n suffici5tly symbolic1 t !y take no acc\nt ( ! human =m4 ,no nymph disports h]self amid ! fall ( ! leaves 9 a lake ( enamel bord]$ by wat]-lilies & iris blooms2 no s]p5t nor devil-fi% w9ds ab\t 9 spasmodic contortions3 yet ^! are *>m+ works ( art1 beautifully & h>moni\sly design$1 & ) l9es balanc$ to p]fection4 ,!y are1 9 fact1 jewels meant to be worn1 bij\x de ville1 :i*1 :ile attract+ no special notice1 =m nev]!less mo/ exquisite objects ( female adornm5t4 ,m4 ,r5 ,foy is a /range arti/1 r re/less1 nev] altoge!r satisfi$ ) himself1 & haunt$ by a p]petual desire = some?+ novel4 ,is he completely himself1 t :i* he wi%es or /rives to be8 ,?is is ! "q ^? :o h closely wat*$ 8 c>e] are ask+ !mselves4 ,= my "p1 ,i "k "s delightful ?+s ( 81 extraord9>ily delicate & graceful2 b ,i also rememb] "s ( 8 "w 9 :i* 8 exagg]ations are su* t "o despairs ( und]/&+ 8 mean+4 ,unless ,i greatly mi/ake him1 he wants ! jewel to express m ?an x is possible = ! jewel to express1 & !re=e is cont9ually re/less 9 8 attempts to a*ieve ! una*ievable4 ,he loses himself 9 a maze ( ref9em5ts :i*1 9 my op9ion1 are outside ! limits ( ! art he practises4 ,he has creat$ lovely ?+s1 ?+s s novel z to be almo/ too novel1 b ,i d n ?9k he has said 8 f9al ^w yet4 ,he is a "y man :o may h _m surprises 9 /ore = u4 ,! jewels ( ,m4 ,jules ,desbois are works ( pure sculpture4 ,8 vision1 at once broad & delicate1 takes ! =m ( beautiful female =ms 9 dreamy or voluptu\s attitude1 sleep+ amid ! masses ( _! abundant hair1 aga9/ a backgr\nd ( gold1 or %ell1 or :atev] ! mat]ial may be4 ,any womanly ge/ure suffices2 &1 9 tru?1 :at m is ne$$ to make a real "w ( art 9 ! =m ( a broo* or a button8 ,no conv5tional fl[]s1 no complicat$ int]lacem5ts1 no?+ decorative 9 ! bad s5se ( ! ^w2 yet 8 "w is p[]fully & delicately mod]n4 ,m4 ,desbois' jewels are p]fect pieces ( sculpture4 ,victor ,pr\v1 ! pa9t]1 has be5 influ5c$ 9 a simil> way1 b1 n be+ a regul> sculptor1 he is m complicat$ )\t be+ any m orig9al on t acc\nt4 ,!re is m composition 9 8 jewels ?an 9 ^? ( ,m4 ,desbois1 m real1 m visible1 int5tion4 ,8 wai/belts1 8 broo*es1 c41 are admirably suit$ to ! purpose = :i* !y are int5d$1 _! modell+ be+ full1 supple1 & ke54 ,! jewels1 execut$ ) scrupul\s c>e & irreproa*able te*nique by ,m4 ,rivaud1 are real works ( art4 ,m4 ,bck] & ,m4 ,paul ,ri*>d1 :o are bo? work+ almo/ exclusively = ,m4 ,f]d9& ,v]g] 7,f4 ,v4 is ! tradem>k ( ! firm71 incl9e to t type ( jewell]y :i* might be t]m$ sculptur$4 ,!y are v consci5ti\s arti/s1 b 9 my op9ion1 at any rate1 ! orig9ality !re may be )9 !m has n yet made itself fully app>5t4 ,m4 ,l\is ,bonny's jewels des]ve special att5tion4 ,l ,m4 ,vev]1 ,m4 ,bonny %[s a pr$ilection = preci\s /ones1 :i* he has ! art ( us+ ) r>e orig9ality4 ,at ! la/ salon ( ! ,socit des ,arti/es ,franais he exhibit$ a s]ies ( jewels :i* attract$ mu* att5tion1 among !m--9 addition to a beautiful necklace ( wild grape 9 enamel1 diamonds1 & em]ald1 9 addition to v>i\s floral p5dants & neck ornam5ts 9 enamel & diamonds--a curi\s diadem1 repres5t+ cocks 9 gold & enamel fight+ = possession ( a sup]b topaz4 ,?is 0 a real t\r de =ce 9 ! way ( execution4 ,o!r beautiful ?+s ( 8 ,i "k1 p>ticul>ly 8 plaque de c\ ( g]aniums1 ) ! leaves 9 diamonds1 ! fl[]s 9 rubies1 ! /ems & buds 9 d>k gre5 enamel1 ! :ole be+ at once ri* & sob] 9 col\r+ & mo/ h>moni\sly & flexibly compos$4 ,m4 ,jo ,descomps is a s\nd arti/1 ^: ef=ts1 laudable z !y may be1 nev]!less lack boldness4 ,he has imag9ation en\gh1 b x looks z ?\gh he fe>$ to give x re94 ,) a little less timidity ,m4 ,descomps w\ld d\btless produce some?+ m piquant & m fre%4 ,i greatly l ! "w ( ,m4 ,*>les ,rivaud4 ,x displays a love ( simplicity too (t5 want+ 9 ! productions ( _m ( 8 fell[ arti/s4 ,if 8 jewels recall--)\t imitat+--! ornam5tal jewell]y ( ,egypt or ,greece1 ^? ( primitive civilisations or ^? sorts popul> 9 ,russia1 ,i c see no h>m 9 ! fact4 ,bett] = him & = u t he %\ld turn to ^! inexhau/ible spr+s ?an become a m]e imitator ( o!r imitators ( successful jewell]s4 ,8 r+s & 8 necklaces1 9 :i* he is always c>eful to leave to ! mat]ials employ$ all ! natural *>m !y possess1 are productions :i* w please ! arti/ r ?an ! b\rgeois & ! snob4 ,!y are discreet & hone/1 nev] l\d or ecc5tric4 ,no less int]e/+1 9 ano!r way1 are ! jewels by ,m4 ,mangeant & ,m4 ,jacqu94 ,x is urg$ aga9/ !m t !y are crude1 incomplete & imp]fect 9 execution4 ,! tru? is1 ^! two arti/s--:om ,i br+ into conjunction1 al?\gh _! "w is dissimil>1 save f _! common reg>d = fre$om 9 ! use ( mat]ials--h1 above all1 a love = natural =ms4 ,out ( a fl[]1 a piece ( seawe$1 or any humble motif1 vegetable or animal1 !y con/ruct jewels 9 gold or oxidis$ silv]1 discreetly reliev$ by /ones1 :i*1 if ( no great intr9sic value1 are nev]!less highly decorative4 ,m4 ,mangeant1 ) "m-(-pe>l & hamm]$ rep\ss silv]1 has creat$ *>m+ jewels1 9 :i* all ! con/ructive p>ts h be5 int5tionally left visible4 ,pr(essional jewell]s %rug _! %\ld]s at ! sight ( ^! jewels1 :i* be> s pla9ly ! /amp ( ! h& t fa%ion$ !m4 ,yet1 9 _! nave rud5ess1 !y appeal to me f> m =cibly ?an does ! poly*romatic t9-w>e ( s _m highly-e/eem$ produc]s4 ,m4 ,*>les ,b\tet de ,monvel1 al?\gh gift$ ) a ri*] & subtl] imag9ation1 may be includ$ 9 ?is little gr\p4 ,9 c]ta9 ( 8 jewels !re is1 z x 71 a rem9isc5ce ( ,byzant9e art--9 ?is owl-comb1 = in/ance1 :i* ,i reg>d z "o ( 8 be/ works4 ,8 swan hair-p91 8 seawe$ buttons 9 gold & silv] on gre5i% enamel ) a pe>l 9 ! c5tre1 8 plaque de c\ 9 translucid enamel1 are also /rong & captivat+4 ,8 sun%ade h&les too1 & 8 sc>f-p9s1 are full ( delicate fancy4 ,x is impossible1 )9 ! space at my disposal1 to describe 9 detail ! productions ( _m o!r work]s well wor?y ( ext5d$ m5tion4 ,let x suffice1 !re=e1 to cite ! names ( ,m4 ,h5ri ,nocq1 t fre% & bold arti/2 ( ,m4 & ,mme4 ,pi]re ,selm]%eim2 ,m4 ,feuilltre2 ,mme4 ,annie ,n\ffl>d2 ,,mm4 ,haas1 ,*]ri]1 ,*alon1 ,falguires1 ,dabault1 ,g4 ,laffitte1 ,h\illon1 ,ar*ambault1 ,l4 ,h4 ,ruffe1 ,qun>d1 ,blan*ot1 ,muret1 ,desrosi]s1 ,le ,c\teux1 ,m>ioton1 ,luci5 ,hirtz1 & ,nau--arti/s :o "w1 "s on _! own acc\nt1 "s = ! big jewell]y firms4 ,( ! firms 9 "q "o mu/ 9 ju/ice "n 9 ! fir/ place ^? ( ,b\*]on & ,falize frres1 n =gett+ ,l4 ,aucoc1 ,vev]1 ,s&oz1 ,luci5 ,gaill>d1 ,f\quet1 ,desprs1 ,tet]g]1 ,*aumet1 ,templi]1 ,f]d9& ,v]g]1 ,j4 ,duval1 ,c\lon1 & ,piel frres4 ,su*1 briefly1 is ! mod]n art-jewell]y movem5t 9 ,france4 ,its int5sity1 z "o sees1 is s great z to be almo/ al>m+4 ,:i!r is x t5d+8 ,"s ( its excesses are dang]\s2 :at w be ! result8 ,m4 ,emile ,mol9i]1 9 a rec5t article on ,objects ( ,art 9 ! ,salons ( #aija1 expresses c]ta9 fe>s :i* ,i %>e4 ,he dreads a reaction due to ! ecc5tricities ( c]ta9 arti/s1 to _! love ( ! outrage\s & ! biz>re1 to _! lack ( proportion1 bo? 9 =m & 9 *oice ( mat]ial4 ,x w\ld really be a pity1 he says1 if s promis+ a revival ( ! true arti/ic jewell]y %\ld come to a bad end4 ,happily we h n rea*$ t po9t yet1 b x is a result :i* may soon be rea*$ if arti/s cont9ue to foi/ ^! weird ?+s on ! public4 ,a fa%ion 9 jewell]y %\ld la/ long] ?an a fa%ion 9 dresses or 9 hats2 b x %\ld n be =gott5 t x mu/ rely 9 ! long run on its appropriat5ess & adaptability4 ,my s9c]e hope is t ^! fe>s may prove to be gr\ndless4 ,,gabriel ,,m\rey4 ,illu/ration 7,fr5*7 ,,design ,,= ,a ,,fan ,,by ,,georges ,,de ,,feure4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #a ,illu/ration3 ,comb 9 ,horn1 ,silex1 ,black ,enamel & ,obsidian4 ,insects 9 ,gold ,,r5 ,,lalique ,,plate #b ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,p5dant 9 ,gold1 ,ivory1 ,enamel & ,pe>l ,b4 ,p5dant 9 ,gold1 ,enamel & ,pe>l ,,r5 ,,lalique ,,plate #c ,illu/ration3 ,wat* 9 ,ivory1 ,gold & ,enamel ,clasp1 ,leaves ( ,plane ,tree1 9 ,silv] ,,r5 ,,lalique ,,plate #d ,illu/ration3 ,comb1 ,leaves ( ,sycamore ,horn & ,silv] ,,r5 ,,lalique ,,plate #e ,illu/ration3 ,combs 9 ,horn & ,silv] ,,r5 ,,lalique ,,plate #f ,illu/ration3 ,p>ure de ,corsage1 9 ,gold & ,enamels ,,mu*a & ,g4 ,,f\quet ,,plate #g ,illu/ration3 ,girdle ) ,p5dants 9 ,gold1 ,pe>ls & ,brilliants ,g4 ,,f\quet ,,plate #h ,illu/ration3 ,necklet ) ,p5dant1 ,gold & ,enamel ,g4 ,,f\quet ,,plate #i ,,p5dant ,,& ,,necklet ,,by ,e4 ,,grasset4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #aj ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,p5dant 9 ,gold1 ,enamel & ,/ones ,b4 ,p5dant 9 ,gold1 ,enamel & ,pe>ls ,g4 ,,f\quet ,,plate #aa ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,lorgnon 9 ,*as$ ,gold & ,*rysoprase ,design$ by ,,cauv9 ,execut$ by ,,b\*]on ,b4 ,lorgnon 9 ,*as$ ,gold ,design$ by ,l4 ,,hirtz ,,plate #ab ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,,fig4 ,c ,a4 ,devant de ,corsage1 ,brilliants ^u gre5 ) ,em]alds en cabo*on ,execut$ by ,,b\*]on ,b4 ,necklet 9 ,*as$ ,gold1 ) a l>ge ,topaz ,bo? design$ by ,l4 ,,hirtz ,c4 ,p5dant 9 ,gold1 ,diamonds1 ,pe>l1 ,opal & ,enamel ,,vev] ,,plate #ac ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,wai/-b& ,buckle 9 ,silv] ,design$ by ,,paul ,,ri*>d4 ,execut$ by ,f4 ,v4 ,,diteur ,b4 ,broo*es 9 ,*as$ ,gold ,design$ by ,l4 ,,hirtz4 ,execut$ by ,,b\*]on ,,plate #ad ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,,fig4 ,c ,,fig4 ,d ,*atela9es & ,wat*es ,f4 ,v4 ,,diteur & ,,paul ,,ri*>d ,b & ,c design$ by ,e4 ,b,,ck] ,,plate #ae ,illu/ration3 ,broo*es 9 ,*as$ ,gold ,,jules ,,desbois ,,plate #af ,illu/ration3 ,buttons & ,broo*es 9 ,*as$ ,gold ,,jules ,,desbois ,,plate #ag ,illu/ration3 ,broo* 9 ,*as$ ,gold & two ,wai/-b& ,buckles 9 ,silv] ,,jules ,,desbois ,,plate #ah 7,fr5*7 ,design = a ,comb 9 ,enamel ,%ell1 & incru/$ ,gold ,f an orig9al draw+ by ,,h5ri ,,vev] ,comb 9 ,enamel1 ,%ell1 & ,preci\s ,/ones ,design$ by ,,paul ,,follot ,execut$ by ,,la ,,maison ,,mod]ne ,comb 9 ,enamel1 ,gold1 ,%ell1 & ,preci\s ,/ones ,design$ by ,,paul ,,follot ,execut$ by ,,la ,,maison ,,mod]ne ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ai ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,comb 9 ,gold & ,horn4 ,leaves 9 gre5 transluc5t ,enamel1 set ) ,sib]ian ,ame?y/s ,b4 ,horn ,fan ,h&le1 incru/$ ) ,gold1 ,brilliants1 & ,enamel ,,vev] ,,plate #bj ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,hat ,p9s 9 ,gold1 ,enamel1 & ,pe>l ,b4 ,umbrella ,h&le1 ,silv] ,gilt & ,/ones ,,*4 ,,b\tet ,,de ,,monvel ,,plate #ba ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,comb 9 ,horn & ,gold ) ,turquoises ,b4 ,comb 9 ,ivory1 ,silv] & ,"m-o'-pe>l ,,*4 ,,b\tet ,,de ,,monvel ,,plate #bb ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,hamm]$ & ,*as$ ,silv] ,broo*es ,b4 ,comb 9 ,silv] & ,"m-o'-pe>l ,e4 ,,mangeant ,,plate #bc ,illu/ration3 ,clasps 9 ,hamm]$ & ,*as$ ,silv] ,e4 ,,mangeant ,,plate #bd ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,c ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,p5dant 9 ,gold & ,enamel ,b4 ,hang+ ,mirror 9 ,gold & ,enamel ,execut$ by ,l',,art ,,n\veau ,design$ by ,,m>cel ,,b+ ,c4 ,p5dant 9 ,gold & ,pe>ls ,design$ by ,,colonna ,,plate #be ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,,fig4 ,c ,a4 ,broo* 9 ,gold1 ,enamel & ,ivory ,execut$ by ,b4 ,p5dant 9 ,gold & ,enamel ,l',,art ,,n\veau ,,m>cel ,,b+ ,c4 ,belt ,clasp 9 ,gold ,,colonna ,,plate #bf ,illu/ration3 ,combs 9 v>i\s mat]ials ,design$ by ,,orazzi ,execut$ by ,,la ,,maison ,,mod]ne ,,plate #bg ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,c ,,fig4 ,d ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,b4 ,broo*es 9 ,gold ) ,preci\s ,/ones ,design$ by ,m4 ,,dufr,,ne ,execut$ by ,c4 ,comb ,,la ,,maison ,,mod]ne ,design$ by ,,orazzi ,d4 ,gold ,p5dant ) ,enamels & ,preci\s ,/ones ,design$ by ,p4 ,,follot ,,plate #bh ,illu/ration3 ,combs ,design$ by ,,orazzi ,execut$ by ,,la ,,maison ,,mod]ne ,,plate #bi ,illu/ration3 ,hat & ,hair ,p9s ,design$ by ,,orazzi ,execut$ by ,,la ,,maison ,,mod]ne ,,plate #cj ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,plaque de ,corsage 9 ,gold1 ,enamel & ,preci\s ,/ones ,b4 ,r+s ,,*>les ,,rivaud ,,plate #ca ,illu/ration3 ,silv] ,wai/-b& ,buckles ,design$ by ,,?4 ,,lamb]t ,execut$ by ,p4 ,,templi] ,,plate #cb ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,,fig4 ,c ,,fig4 ,e ,,fig4 ,c ,,fig4 ,d ,a1 ,b1 ,c ,d4 ,silv] ,broo*es ,design$ by ,,?4 ,,lamb]t ,execut$ by ,p4 ,,templi] ,e4 ,*atela9e & ,wat* ,design$ by ,m4 ,,dufr,,ne ,execut$ by ,,la ,,maison ,,mod]ne ,,plate #cc ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,,fig4 ,c ,a ,b4 ,silv] ,broo*es ,c4 ,silv] ,necklet ) ,p5dant ,design$ by ,,?4 ,,lamb]t ,execut$ by ,p4 ,,templi] ,,plate #cd ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,pa9t$ ,fan ,,georges ,,de ,,feure ,b4 ,lace ,fan ,design$ by ,f,,lix ,,aub]t ,execut$ by ,,la ,,maison ,,mod]ne ,,plate #ce 7,briti%7 ,,design ,,= ,a ,,/5cill$ ,,fan ,,by ,,reg9ald ,t4 ,,dick4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #a ,,mod]n ,,briti% ,,jewell]y ,,fans4 ,,by ,,aym] ,,vallance4 ,illu/ration ,none b ! mo/ sup]ficial obs]v]s c h fail$ to note ! imm5se advance t has be5 atta9$ 9 ,briti% jewell]y2 ?\gh h[ or at :at precise po9t ( "t ! improvem5t orig9at$ may n be det]m9$ ) too ra% precision4 ,x began n m ?an fifte5 or tw5ty1 nor p]haps lat] ?an t5 ye>s ago4 ,some:]e betwe5 ^! two limits is ab\t ! approximate date4 ,at any rate1 x is c]ta9 t1 ?irty ye>s s9ce1 x 0 q impossible to procure jewell]y 9 ! design & composition ( :i* !re ent]$ any arti/ic ta/e :atev]4 ,su* simply did n exi/4 ,:]eas n[ !re is a widespread1 ?\gh unhappily n a univ]sal1 movem5t among/ u = ! design & production ( jewell]y on true /hetic pr9ciples4 ,! movem5t may ev5 be describ$ z 9 a measure conc]t$1 t is1 9 s f> z x pres5ts c]ta9 ma9 *>act]i/ics common to ! "w ( ! v>i\s individual arti/s or s*ools ( arti/s :o are conc]n$ ) ?is bran* ( decoration4 ,&1 fir/ly1 mu/ be not$ ! developm5t ( ! goldsmi?'s & silv]smi?'s craft z an important arti/ic factor entirely di/9ct & ap>t f ! subsidi>y task ( /one-sett+4 ,! recognition ( ! art ( ! metal-work]1 z wor?y & capable 9 itself ( provid+ beautiful ornam5ts1 )\t _! s]v+ any su* ult]ior purpose z sport+ trophies or ecc5tric badges ( buffoon]y2 & also )\t ! adv5titi\s attraction ( co/ly gems1 is a decid$ po9t ga9$4 ,&1 secondly1 :]e /ones d happ5 to be employ$1 !re is an increas+ practice ( introduc+ !m = ! sake ( _! decorative prop]ties1 n1 z =m]ly1 = ! comm]cial value !y repres5t 9 p\nds /]l+4 ,m]e glitt] & ! vulg> display ( afflu5ce are gradually yield+ be=e ! high] consid]ations ( beauty ( =m & col\r4 ,nor is x any long] deem$ improp]1 %\ld ! /hetic effect ( ! juxtaposition dem&1 to set diamonds or o!r valuable gems side by side ) common & inexp5sive /ones4 ,9 ^! col\r comb9ations1 s9ce fla% & transp>5ce are become ( m9or e/eem1 jewels1 in/ead ( be+ cut 9 facets1 are n infrequ5tly poli%$ 9 _! natural %ape1 en cabo*on1 or tall[-cut1 z x is call$1 _! irregul>ities ( =mation imp>t+ n a little to ! b>b>ic ri*ness ( ! ornam5ts 9 :i* !y occur4 ,moreov]1 out ( ! ta/e = col\r effects 9 jewell]y has aris5 an en?usia/ic /udy ( ! special peculi>ities ( _m gems n hi!rto mu* s\ght aft]2 a /udy result+ 9 ! adoption ( c]ta9 gems n v preci\s1 yet suffici5tly r>e1 & su* t1 l ,mexican or fire opals1 = example1 possess peculi> qualities ( *ameleon-l iridesc5ce or dep? or lu/re t r5d] !m admirably appropriate = qua9t & picturesque sett+s4 ,among o!r /ones ?us employ$ may be m5tion$ lapis lazuli2 mala*ite & its correspond+ blue m9]al1 azurite2 ,connem>a m>ble1 or s]p5t9e2 amazonite1 a light gre5 sp>2 *rysoprase2 & luma*ella1 ,hung>ian bo? 9 "n & orig94 ,! la/ nam$ consi/s ( fossilis$ %ells imb$d$ 9 a black matrix1 ! %ells ( wond]ful iridesc5ce1 or fleck$ ) /reaks ( vivid col\r1 & possess+1 9 %ort1 su* ornam5tal qualities z amply comp5sate ! difficulty ( obta9+ x & ( work+ :5 obta9$4 ,ano!r mat]ial includ$ 9 ! same category is riv] pe>l1 or "m-(-pe>l1 9 ! =m te*nically kn[n z pe>l bli/]s1 t is1 pe>ls undevelop$ 9 ! %ell & mis%ap51 :i* nev]!less are peculi>ly useful = decorative jewell]y4 ,"o advantage ( ^! sub/ances is t1 on acc\nt ( _! comp>ative *eapness1 "o does n scruple to dim9i% & divide & fa%ion !m z may be/ s]ve ! purpose 9 h&2 :]eas 9 ! case ( ! m preci\s /ones1 l diamonds1 ^: co/1 cet]is p>ibus1 increases proportionately ) _! size & weight1 "o %r9ks f impair+ _! comm]cial value1 & consequ5tly is apt to pres]ve !m :ole1 v (t5 at ! sacrifice ( decorative effect4 ,! craftsman is unhamp]$ 9 ! use ( ^? jewels only :i* he kn[s he is at lib]ty to treat z adjuncts subord9at$ to 8 art4 ,!re has1 moreov]1 tak5 place an ext5d$ revival ( enamell+1 an art :i* (f]s abundant opportunities = ! ex]cise ( ! decorator's skill & fancy4 ,x is wor?y ( rem>k t our arti/s' imag9ation 9 jewell]y seldom deg5]ates into any great extravagance4 ,= ! mo/ "p ! designs1 ev5 among beg9n]s & /ud5ts 9 art s*ools1 a numb] ( :om h tak5 up ?is bran* ( ornam5t1 are /rictly re/ra9$ )9 b\nds1 9 accord1 may be1 ) our national "* ( res]ve4 ,few draw+s comp>atively h be5 execut$1 b !re is no reason :y a l>ge proportion %\ld n be translat$ f pap] into actual exi/5ce2 = !y are 9 g5]al fairly simple1 /raight=w>d1 & practicable1 or su* t1 ) b slight modifications1 c\ld be r5d]$ q practicable = work+ purposes4 ,x is (t5 /at$ t art c only fl\ri% ?r\gh ! patronage ( ! weal?y1 to ^: com=t & luxury x m9i/]s4 ,if ?is be true at all1 !n surely ( all ?+s 9 ! _w ! jewell]'s craft %\ld be a case 9 po9t1 :]eas x is conspicu\sly ! rev]se4 ,! arti/ic jewell]y produc$ 9 ?is c\ntry has n1 f its v nature1 appeal$ *iefly to ! ri*e/ classes ( ! community1 b r to ^? ( q mod]ate means4 ,& :ile1 on ! "o h&1 x is enc\rag+ to obs]ve h[ mu* ( good "w has be5 & is be+ done t[>ds rais+ ! /&>d ( jewell]y design among/ u1 x is nev]!less disappo9t+ to h to record h[ little support x has f\nd 9 influ5tial & (ficial qu>t]s4 ,"o notable exception is ! commission ,mr4 ,alfr$ ,gilb]t receiv$ to design a mayoral coll>1 *a9 & badge = ! ,corporation ( ,pre/on4 ,! sket* model = ! same 0 exhibit$ at ! ,royal ,academy 9 #ahhh1 &1 = bold orig9ality ( outl9e1 z well z = ! crisp curl+ treatm5t ( ! p>ts execut$ 9 %eet metal1 mu/ h be51 z 0 rem>k$ at ! "t1 a revelation to ! ord9>y trade jewell]4 ,among pione]s ( ! arti/ic jewell]y movem5t1 ,mr4 ,c4 ,r4 ,a%bee holds an hon\rable place4 ,he /ood almo/ alone at ! beg9n+1 :5 he fir/ made kn[n ! jewell]y design$ by him1 & produc$ "u 8 p]sonal direction by ! ,guild & ,s*ool ( ,h&icraft 9 ! ,ea/ ,end4 ,x 0 imm$iately app>5t t "h 0 no t5tative nor half-he>t$ caprice1 b t a g5u9e & e>ne/ phase ( an anci5t craft _h be5 re-e/abli%$4 ,e design 0 c>efully ?\ght out1 & ! "w execut$ ) n less c>eful & consi/5t te*nique4 ,9 fact1 its high m]its 7 f> 9 advance ( any?+ else 9 contempor>y jewell]y or goldsmi?'s "w4 ,! patt]ns 7 bas$ on conv5tionalis$ =ms ( nature1 fav\rite among !m be+ ! c>nation1 ! rose1 & ! he>tsease1 or on ab/ract =ms invit$ by ! requirem5ts & conditions ( ! mat]ial--! ductility & lu/re ( ! metal itself4 ,mo/ ( ! ornam5ts 7 ( silv]1 ! surface ( :i* 0 n work$ up to a brilliantly %9+ burni%1 9 ! preval5t fa%ion ( ! day1 b dull poli%$ 9 su* wise z to give ! *>m+ ri*ness & tone ( old silv]work4 ,mr4 ,a%bee also adopt$ ! use ( jewels1 n lavi%ly nor o/5tati\sly1 b j :]ev] a note ( col\r w\ld convey ! mo/ tell+ effect1 ! /ones 9 !mselves1 e4g4 ame?y/s1 amb]1 & r\gh pe>l1 be+ ( no p>ticul> value1 save purely f ! po9t ( view ( decoration4 ,novel & revolution>y z 71 at its fir/ appe>ance1 ! pr9ciples und]ly+ ,mr4 ,a%bee's jewell]y "w--viz4 t ! value ( a p]sonal ornam5t consi/s n 9 ! comm]cial co/ ( ! mat]ials s mu* z 9 ! arti/ic quality ( its design & treatm5t--!y became ! /&>d :i* no arti/ !nce=w>d c\ld wisely af=d to ignore1 & su* fur!rmore t h ev5 9 c]ta9 qu>t]s become appropriat$ by ! trade 9 rec5t times4 ,mr4 ,a%bee himself is an en?usia/ic /ud5t ( ,b5v5uto ,cell9i1 ^: treatises he translat$1 edit$1 & pr9t$ 9 #ahih4 ,b =tunately ! influ5ce ( ,italian /yle is by no means p>am\nt 9 ,mr4 ,a%bee's own designs = jewell]y1 unless inde$ ! f9e & da9ty grace :i* p>ticul>ly *>act]ises "s ( 8 lat] "w is to be attribut$ to ?is s\rce4 ,"o or two ( ! necklaces "h reproduc$ are examples ( ?is light] mann] ( ,mr4 ,a%bee's1 z ! two h&some peacock patt]n broo*es are ( 8 m solid & sub/antial jewell]y2 :ile1 aga91 ! necklace ( gre5 mala*ite1 turquoise1 & silv]1 ) p5dants ( grape bun*es alt]nat+ ) v9e-leaf & t5dril ornam5ts1 occupies an int]m$iate position midway betwe5 ! two =m] classes ( 8 "w4 ,"o is always glad to welcome an arti/ :o is c\rage\s & firm en\gh to grapple ) ! practical difficulties t surr\nd him1 & :o sets ab\t to re=m1 :]e ne$ requires1 ! native indu/ry ( 8 own neighb\rhood4 ,su* is ! aim ( ,mr4 & ,mrs4 ,ar?ur ,gask94 ,_! home is 9 a locality :]e a l>ge am\nt ( v deplorable jewell]y is produc$2 s deplorable t !y det]m9$1 if possible1 to provide an antidote to ! prevail+ degradation4 ,& ! reason :y ! va/ mass ( ! trade jewell]y manufactur$ 9 ,birm+ham is bad is t 9 /yle & outl9e x is utt]ly devoid ( arti/ic inspiration1 :ile at ! same "t x is p]fect z conc]ns m]e te*nique4 ,! pity ( x is t su* excell5t workman%ip %\ld be wa/$ on su* contemptible design4 ,mr4 ,gask91 !re=e1 saw no alt]native b to />t afre%1 rev]s+ ! accept$ ord] ( ?+s4 ,8 plan is to give ! =emo/ c>e to ! design1 & only secondly to reg>d te*nique2 & s1 by keep+ design well 9 advance1 executive skill foll[+ aft]1 to raise ! =m] to its prop] level4 ,abs5ce ( ma!matical uni=mity is no d\bt held to be a blemi% 9 ! op9ion ( ! tradesman1 b x gives a liv+ & human int]e/ to ! "w1 & a decorative quality :i* ma*9e-made articles _c claim to possess4 ,mr4 ,gask9 came to ! conclusion t x 0 ( little b5efit = a draughtsman to make draw+s on pap] to be c>ri$ out by someone else2 /udio & work%op mu/ be "o1 design] id5tical ) craftsman4 ,x is n v _m ye>s s9ce ,mr4 ,gask91 ably second$ by 8 wife1 />t$ ) humble1 nay1 almo/ rudim5t>y app>atus1 to make jewell]y ) 8 own h&s2 b ! result has prov$ h[ mu* ta/e & /eadfa/ endurance c accompli%4 ,_! designs are s num]\s & s v>i$--r>ely is any s+le "o repeat$1 except to ord]--t x is h>dly possible to f9d any description to apply to all4 ,b x may be not$ t1 :]eas a l>ge numb] h be5 *>act]is$ by a light & graceful treatm5t ( twi/$ wire1 almo/ l filigree1 ! two p5dants "h illu/rat$ seem to indicate r a new dep>ture on ! "p ( ,mr4 ,gask91 ) _! plates ( *as$ metal1 & p5dants atta*$ by r+s1 a me?od n 9 any s5se copi$ f1 yet 9 "s sort recall+ ! beautiful fa%ion ) :i* connoisseurs are famili> 9 ,norwegian & ,sw$i% peasant jewell]y4 ,next 9 ord] may be m5tion$ ,mr4 ,fr$ ,rob9son4 ,?is arti/ is actuat$ by simil> ideals z ,mr4 & ,mrs4 ,gask91 z is evid5c$ m especially by 8 necklace ) b5t wire p5dants ( op5-"w arabesque4 ,ano!r arti/ ( di/9ction is ,miss ,annie ,mc,leish1 ( ,liv]pool1 ^: jewell]y design1 p>ticul>ly 9 ! way 9 :i* ! sev]al p>ts are connect$ toge!r--an ornam5tal feature be+ made out ( ! /ructural requirem5t ( /r5g!n+ & ty+ toge!r ! portions pi]c$ j\r--is curi\sly sugge/ive ( ! p]=at$ iron gu>ds ( ,japanese sword-h&les4 ,at ! same "t1 x is n to be impli$ t ,miss ,mc,leish is at all an imitator ( ,japanese "w4 ,ano!r po9t to be notic$ is h] decorative use ( ! human figure1 9 :i* reg>d two m lady design]s1 ,miss ,l>combe & ,miss ,w9ifr$ ,hodgk9son1 also excel4 ,! latt]1 to ^: "w black-&-:ite reproduction sc>cely does adequate ju/ice1 is /rong] 9 h] figure "w ?an 9 t :i* comes easie/ to mo/ p--to wit1 ! treatm5t ( floral =ms t con/itute ! subord9ate portions ( ! design4 ,! numb] ( ladies :o h a*iev$ success 9 jewell]y design proves ?is1 inde$1 to be a craft to :i* a woman's light & da9ty manipulation is peculi>ly adapt$4 ,besides ^? already m5tion$ "o has only to in/ance ,miss ,e!l ,hodgk9son & ,miss ,sw9dell1 :o bo? contribute graceful designs = hat-p9s & o!r small articles2 ,miss ,doro?y ,h>t1 ^: *>m+ p5tacol is execut$ by h]self2 ,miss ,kate ,fi%] & ,miss ,mc,bean1 9 ^: designs = clasps1 etc41 enamel is a prom95t item2 ,miss ,alaba/]1 ^: beautiful gold broo*1 adorn$ ) blue & gre5 enamel1 is bas$ on a motif ( trees ) int]tw9+ /ems & roots2 & ,miss ,rank91 ^: f\r silv] hat-p9s ( h&some design1 repres5t+ a peacock1 ?i/les1 & ,celtic bea/s respectively1 are execut$ by ,mr4 ,talbot1 ( ,ed9burgh1 himself a design] z well z artific]4 ,miss ,edi? ,pick]t1 9 h] designs = v>i\s articles ( jewell]y1 usually employs a fairly ?ick outl9e ( metal to enclose a col\r$ enamel surface4 ,h[ div]sely "o & ! same motif may be r5d]$ 9 diff]5t h&s is illu/rat$ by a comp>ison ( ,miss ,pick]t's belt design & ,mr4 ,nelson ,dawson's belt-clasps1 bo? 9 enamel & bo? f\nd$ on ! fl[] love 9 a mi/4 ,mr4 ,nelson ,dawson1 well kn[n z an em95t metal-work] & active memb] ( ! ,society ( ,arts & ,crafts1 is also ,director ( ! ,artific]s' ,guild4 ,ano!r belt-clasp f 8 design repres5ts ! delicate =m ( ! h>ebell plant4 ,mr4 ,edg> ,simpson1 ( ,nott+ham1 is an arti/ ( great gifts1 z 8 draw+s &1 /ill m1 ! specim5s ( 8 actual h&iwork "h illu/rat$ fully te/ify4 ,_m excell5t designs lose vig\r & "* 9 ! process ( execution f ! orig9al sket*2 b ,mr4 ,simpson1 on ! contr>y1 manages to give 8 designs additional *>m by ! exquisite f9i% ) :i* he works !m out 9 metal4 ,p>ticul>ly happy is ?is arti/'s r5d]+ ( dolph9s & o!r m>9e creatures2 z 9 ! circul> p5dant :]e ! swirl+ motion ( wat] is convey$ by elegant curv+ l9es ( silv]1 ) a pe>l1 to repres5t an air-bubble1 issu+ f ! fi%'s m\?4 ,mr4 ,david ,veazey's "w1 includ+1 among o!r ?+s1 a hair comb decorat$ ) enamel1 has a v>iegat$ opal-t9t$ quality ( col\r2 :ile ,miss ,b>rie obta9s admirable effects 9 transluc5t enamel )\t back+1 aft] ! ,russian me?od4 ,h] design = a belt-clasp ) int]lac$ ornam5t & /ones is excell5t4 ,o!r belt-clasps & buckles are f designs by ,mr4 ,oliv] ,bak]4 ,"s ( ?is /rap-"w ornam5t looks z ?\gh x might h be5 produc$ by ca/+ f a model2 b1 z a matt] ( fact1 x is entirely wr\ght & fold$ by h&4 ,mr4 & ,mrs4 ,mc,nair's jewell]y1 z well z t ( ,mr4 & ,mrs4 ,mack9to%1 has t qua9t mann]ism :i* "o in/9ctively associates ) ! ,glasg[ s*ool ( decorators1 z also1 9 a /ill m m>k$ degree1 t ( ,mr4 ,talwyn ,morris1 ^: *>act]i/ic book-cov]s are well kn[n4 ,= jewell]y1 he frequ5tly elects to "w 9 alum9ium4 ,8 design is /rik+ly orig9al 9 effect1 ?\gh on analysis x is f\nd to consi/ ( v simple units1 su* z v>i\s-siz$ rectangles ov]laid1 _! b\nd>y l9es int]p5etrat+2 ) ! occasional app>ition ( a peacock's eye-fea!r or ! bird's neck & head 9 ! mid/4 ,9 ^! cases a complet] s5se ( organic unity might be obta9$ if1 in/ead ( a deta*$ limb1 ! :ole bird 7 repres5t$1 or "s o!r logical coh]5ce e/abli%$ betwe5 ! incid5ts ( ! composition4 ,mr4 ,?omas ,cook1 ( ,we/ ,ham1 ins]ts small slabs ( mosaic1 aft] ! ,italian mode1 only he frankly adopts a purely conv5tional treatm5t1 wisely refra9+ f any approa* to pictorial realism4 ,x is a hopeful sign t 9 _m ( ! te*nical art s*ools ?r\gh\t ! l& /ud5ts are tak+ up jewell]y design1 & n only t1 b 9 "s cases c>ry+ out ! actual "w !mselves4 ,x is l>gely due to ! same fo/]+ influ5ce t ! beautiful art ( enamell+1 frequ5tly ref]r$ to above1 has be5 develop$ among/ u1 notably at ! ,c5tral ,s*ool ( ,arts & ,crafts1 :]e classes = ?is dep>tm5t 7 inaugurat$ "u ! able guidance ( ,mr4 ,alex&] ,fi%]4 ,b if ! improvem5t 9 jewell]y is to be g5]al & p]man5t1 9 ord] to set x on a secure basis ! motive p[] mu/ come f )94 ,mu* good1 !re=e1 may be expect$ to result f ! (ficial sanction af=d$ by ! ,goldsmi?s' ,company to ! jewell]y "w ( _! ,te*nical ,in/itute1 to :i* a numb] ( v cr$itable designs owe _! exi/5ce4 ,among o!rs may be s+l$ out "s decorations = wat*-backs1 a bran* ( ! craft z useful z x is neglect$2 ^? :o h tak5 x up1 l ,miss ,kate ,all51 = in/ance1 be+ un=tunately b r>e exceptions4 ,!re is no reason1 h[ev]1 :y ev]yone :o c>ries a wat* %\ld n enjoy 9 x ! con/ant companion%ip ( a ?+ ( beauty4 ,to sum up1 !n1 if our mod]n art jewell]y _c boa/ any conspicu\sly brilliant features1 at any rate x is ( a high av]age /&>d4 ,& ?\gh1 z is ! case ( all good "w1 x mu/ ne$s %>e _m qualities 9 common ) ! noble treasures ( ! pa/1 x yet does n assimilate to any hi/oric /yle4 ,9 f9e1 x is orig9al2 &1 )al1 !re may be trac$ 9 mo/ ( x a c]ta9 family lik5ess4 ,x seems almo/ z if "s new-born idea 7 really beg9n+ to dom9ate x ) ! impress ( a di/9ct nationality1 de/9$ to develop "s day into a tradition :i* future g5]ations may ju/ly feel x a privilege to foll[4 ,! case ( fans is ! exact opposite to t ( jewell]y4 ,9 ! =m] dep>tm5t1 x _c be said t !re exi/s any sort ( cons5sus ( ideals1 nor any p>am\nt type ( ornam5t4 ,&1 not)/&+ ! exi/5ce among/ u ( "s few fan-pa9t]s ( v consid]able repute1 _! op]ations rema9 z yet q p]sonal & individuali/ic4 ,!y h no regul> foll[+2 h f\nd$ no s*ool ( decoration4 ,x is1 !re=e1 a subject /ill op5 to det]m9e by :at pr9ciples ! ornam5t ( fans %\ld be guid$4 ,fir/ly %\ld be tak5 into acc\nt ! peculi> %ape ( ! surface available = decoration2 &1 secondly1 ! fact t ?is surface is n a flat plane1 b su* t mu/ 9 practice infallibly be brok5 into s _m set divisions or folds4 ,! latt] circum/ance is ! real crux ( ! "q1 _m decorations1 o!rwise beautiful en\gh 9 ! flat1 be+ utt]ly ru9$ 9 effect z soon z !y und]go ! ordeal ( m\nt+4 ,?us x may p]haps seem an +5i\s plan to subdivide ! space horizontally1 b x mu/ be rememb]$ t e horizontal l9e w lose its value :5 conv]t$1 z x mu/ be1 into a s]ies ( irregul> zigzags4 ,! fold+ is an ess5tial factor1 )\t tak+ :i* into acc\nt no fan decoration c be satisfactory4 ,9 sett+ out ! design1 !n1 x %\ld always be borne 9 m9d t no %>ply def9$ /raight l9es are admissible1 except ^? t radiate f ! c5tre2 & t1 ( curves1 conc5tric ones are ! be/1 su*1 t is1 z are p>allel ) ! arc %ape4 ,if ! ornam5t is floral1 x may take ! =m ei!r ( a p[d]+1 or ( an all-ov] patt]n ( mod]ately small scrolls4 ,^? on a l>ge scale w\ld run c\nt] to ! folds 9 too emphatic a mann] to be agreeable4 ,9 figure subjects1 ( c\rse1 c>e %\ld be tak5 s to dispose !m t no important feature l an eye or a nose be split asund] by ! l9es ( ! folds4 ,! l>g] & m pron\nc$ ! patt]n1 ! m necess>y x is to obs]ve ^! conditions4 ,on ! o!r h&1 :]e ! col\r+ is ( fairly ev5 tone1 & )\t /rongly contra/$ masses1 or :]e ! design is on a small scale1 ! surface c ! m safely be spac$ out by l9es or m$allions or c>t\*es1 or o!r devices t may comm5d !mselves4 ,z reg>ds mat]ial1 !re is no "q t a silk gr\nd1 prep>$ ) rice-size & /ret*$1 until ! decoration is complet$1 on a /ret*]1 (f]s z suitable a texture z "o c\ld desire = delicate & s(tly-bl5d$ h>monies 9 wat]-col\r2 z ! fans ( ,mr4 ,cond]1 a prolific fan-pa9t]1 ^: "w appeals to a l>ge circle ( admir]s1 amply te/ify4 ,! detail is all ,mr4 ,cond]'s own1 ?\gh ! influ5ce ( ,fr5* ,x,v,i,i,ith c5tury ornam5t is unmi/akable4 ,miss ,syrett aga9 is a clev] arti/ work+ on some:at simil> l9es4 ,no "o1 h[ev]1 :o knew h] figure compositions 9 h] ,slade ,s*ool days1 productions full ( promise1 if m>r$ by ! att5uat$ model ) prim1 smoo?-drawn hair1 ! type ( ,c>los ,s*wabe's illu/rations to ,le ,rve & l'vangile1 c\ld h =ese5 t ,miss ,syrett w\ld develop 9 ! direction ( h] pres5t "w4 ,! r$uc$ black-&-:ite illu/rations convey no idea ( ! t5d] beauty ( ! col\r+1 nor ( ! exquisite p5-"w 9 br[n ) :i* su* features z ! faces1 hair1 & h&s are execut$4 ,ano!r gift$ arti/ is ,mr4 ,brangwyn1 :o n[ makes 8 db z a fan decorator1 ) a f9i%$ pa9t+ on silk1 & also a crayon /udy = ! same purpose4 ,8 design %[s h[ mu* individuality an arti/ may imp>t ev5 to "w consci\sly f\nd$ on t ( a pa/ /yle4 ,"h1 = example1 9 ! draw+ ( ,cupids %oot+ _! d>ts at a pair ( lov]s1 may be recognis$ ! v figures ( ! ,trianon p]iod1 b happily )\t any ( _! doll-l affectation & effem9acy4 ,^? :o recollect ,miss ,jessie ,k+'s draw+ 9 ! la/ w9t]'s special numb] ( ,,! ,,/udio--h] ,pelleas & ,mlis&e--9 :i* ! lank =ms ( ,s*wabe or ,torop 7 comb9$ ) a weal? ( accessory ornam5t ( ! arti/'s own1 w sc>cely recognise h] h& 9 ! pres5t fan4 ,%e seems to be able to pass ) m>vell\s facility f "o fully matur$ /yle to ano!r4 ,! elaborate1 nay1 luxuriant f9i% ( ! :ole1 to say no?+ ( sep>ate details su* z ! butt]flies1 ! fe/oons1 knots1 etc41 vividly recall ! "w ( ! late ,aubrey ,be>dsley4 ,x is no d]ogation ( ,miss ,k+'s rem>kable p[]s to ass]t t1 b = ! exi/5ce ( ,mr4 ,be>dsley1 ?is draw+ ( h]s w\ld c]ta9ly n h be5 :at x is4 ,"o c\ld wi% t1 = ! sake ( support to ! leaf1 m room _h be5 all[$ to ! /icks4 ,b1 ap>t f ?is defect1 ! da9ty c>e ) :i* e m9ute detail is consi/5tly c>ri$ out m]its little else ?an praise4 ,miss ,*ri/9e ,angus contributes two designs--"o1 9 a pictorial /yle1 = a pap] fan1 n ne>ly s decorative z ! o!r1 ( nude boys & sweet peas1 = pa9t+ on silk4 ,miss ,e!l ,l>combe's gauze fans are attractive compositions1 :i* be> tok5s ( a dilig5t appreciation ( ,granville ,fell4 ,ano!r k9d ( fan ornam5tation is exemplifi$ by ! /5cil "w ( ,mr4 ,reg9ald ,dick & ,mr4 ,?omas ,cook4 ,x is true ^! decorations are 9 a degree1 b only 9 a slight degree1 me*anical4 ,! "o un*angeable elem5t is ! :ite tie-l9es ( ! patt]n4 ,= ! re/1 no little skill is requir$ ( ! arti/ 9 devis+ & cutt+ 8 /5cil4 ,! numb] ( plates is limit$1 b ! mode adopt$ ( col\r+ by h& admits ( su* v>iations t no two specim5s f ! id5tical /5cil plates w\ld ev] be alike4 ,mr4 ,dick's fan is provid$ ) enamell$ /icks 9 keep+ ) ! o!r p>ts ( ! decoration4 ,mr4 ,cook's design is ! less *>act]i/ic ( ?is p>ticul> me?od4 ,inde$1 ?\gh f9i%$ (f at ei!r end ) a c]ta9 plausibility1 ! patt]n is an obvi\s repeat1 & su* t might v well be ! section ( a circul> di% bord]4 ,less ambiti\s are ! designs = diff]5t sorts ( lacework by ,miss ,hammett & ,miss ,naylor4 ,ea* ( ^! patt]ns1 :ile keep+ /rictly )9 ! limits ( ! special te*nique propos$1 %[s yet mu* fre%ness & f]tility ( res\rce4 ,9 ! "o case ! design is floral1 9 ! o!r ! !me is reliev$ by ! introduction ( bird =ms into ! composition4 ,to conclude1 ! scope = decoration t fans af=d is s great1 & ! possible me?ods s manifold1 t ! wond] is !re are n _m m arti/s employ$ 9 ?is indu/ry4 ,x is "o well wor?y ( _! att5tion2 & x is to be hop$ t no long "t may elapse be=e ! jo9t ef=ts ( design]s may1 9 ?is1 z already 9 o!r bran*es ( arts & crafts1 result 9 some?+ l a native /yle ( ornam5tation be+ evolv$4 ,,aym] ,,vallance4 7,briti%7 ,a ,,fan ,,pa9t$ ,,on ,,silk ,,by ,,frank ,,cond]4 7,9 ! possession ( ,?omas ,greg1 ,esq47 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,plate #b ,illu/ration3 ,design = a ,lace ,fan ,,myra ,,naylor ,,plate #c ,illu/ration3 ,design = a ,lace ,fan ,,myra ,,naylor ,,plate #d 7,briti%7 ,a ,,fan ,,pa9t$ ,,on ,,silk ,,by ,,frank ,,cond]4 7,9 ! possession ( ,dalh\sie ,"y1 ,esq47 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #e ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,! ,m$allion ,fan ,b4 ,a ,trave/y ,fan ,,frank ,,cond] 7,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,c>fax ,co47 ,,plate #f ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,! ,empire ,fan ,b4 ,l',anglaise ,fan ,,frank ,,cond] 7,by p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,c>fax ,co47 ,,plate #g 7,briti%7 ,a ,,pa9t$ ,,silk ,,fan ,,by ,,frank ,,brangwyn4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #h ,illu/ration3 ,designs = ,lace ,fans ,,lydia ,c4 ,,hammett ,,plate #i ,illu/ration3 ,designs = ,pa9t$ ,gauze ,fans ,,e!l ,,l>combe ,,plate #aj 7,briti%7 ,,! ,,c\rt ,,( ,,love ,,design ,,= ,a ,,pa9t$ ,,fan ,,by ,h4 ,,granville ,,fell4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #aa ,illu/ration3 ,designs = ,pa9t$ ,silk ,fans ,,*ri/9e ,,angus ,,plate #ab ,illu/ration3 ,pa9t$ ,silk ,fans ,,nellie ,,syrett ,,plate #ac 7,briti%7 ,,buckle ,,9 ,,wr\ght ,,silv] ,,& ,,enamel ,,by ,,nelson ,,& ,,edi? ,,dawson4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ad ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,a4 ,pa9t$ ,silk ,fan ,,?omas ,a4 ,,cook ,,fig4 ,b ,b4 ,pa9t$ ,silk ,fan ,,nellie ,,syrett ,,plate #ae ,illu/ration3 ,design = a ,fan ,,jessie ,m4 ,,k+ ,,plate #af ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,necklet 9 ,gold & ,silv]1 ) ,ame?y/s & ,enamels ,b4 ,necklet 9 ,silv] & ,gold1 gre5 ,mala*ite & ,turquoise ,design$ by ,c4 ,r4 ,,a%bee ,execut$ by ,,! ,,guild ,,( ,,h&icraft ,,plate #ag ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,necklet 9 ,gold1 ,pe>ls & ,enamels ,b4 ,silv] ,muff-,*a9 ) ,pe>l ,bli/]s ,design$ by ,c4 ,r4 ,,a%bee ,execut$ by ,,! ,,guild ,,( ,,h&icraft ,,plate #ah 7,briti%7 ,comb 9 ,"m-(-pe>l & ,enamel ,b4 ,j4 ,,b>rie ,comb 9 ,beat5 ,silv] ) ,ivory ,prongs ,,david ,,veazey ,hair ,comb 9 ,silv] & ,transp>5t ,enamels ,,kate ,,all5 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ai ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,,fig4 ,c ,a4 ,peacock ,broo* ) ,pe>ls1 ,:ite ,enamel & ,turquoises ,b4 ,silv] ,broo*1 ) ,gre5 & ,blue ,enamels ,c4 ,peacock ,broo*1 9 ,gold1 ) ,pe>ls & ,diamonds1 a ,ruby 9 ! ,peacock's eye ,design$ by ,c4 ,r4 ,,a%bee ,execut$ by ,,! ,,guild ,,( ,,h&icraft ,,plate #bj ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,silv] ,clasp1 enri*$ ) ,ame?y/s1 ,pe>ls & pale violet ,enamel ,design$ by ,c4 ,r4 ,,a%bee ,execut$ by ,,! ,,guild ,,( ,,h&icraft ,b4 ,hair ,comb1 9 ,silv] & ,enamels ,,frances ,mc,n,a,i,r ,,plate #ba ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,v9aigrette & ,*a9 ,j4 ,,h]b]t ,mc,n,a,i,r ,b4 ,p5dant 9 beat5 ,silv]1 pi]c$ & enamell$ to hold a ,cry/al ,locket ,,frances ,mc,n,a,i,r ,,plate #bb ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,belt-buckle & two ,broo*es 9 beat5 ,silv] & ,wire ,b4 ,broo*es & ,e>r+s ,j4 ,,h]b]t ,mc,n,a,i,r ,,plate #bc 7,briti%7 ,,designs ,,= ,,jewell]y ,,9 ,,gold1 ,,silv]1 ,,enamels1 ,,mosaic ,,& ,,preci\s ,,/ones ,,by ,,?omas ,a4 ,,cook4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #bd ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,necklace 9 ,gold & ,enamel ,,kate ,,fi%] ,b4 ,belt 9 ,silv] & ,enamel ,,edi? ,,pickett ,,plate #be ,illu/ration3 ,silv] ,clasps & ,gold ,p5dants set ) ,opals & ,ame?y/s ,,edg> ,,simpson ,,plate #bf ,illu/ration3 ,a ,p5dant1 ,two ,buttons1 a ,broo* & a ,cloak ,clasp 9 ,silv] ,,edg> ,,simpson ,,plate #bg ,illu/ration3 ,silv] ,p5dant1 ,broo* & ,clasp ,,annie ,mc,l,e,i,s,h ,,plate #bh 7,briti%7 ,enamell$ ,silv] ,broo* ,a4 ,e4 ,,arscott ,silv] ,p5dant t\*$ ) ,enamel ,e4 ,,may ,,br[n ,enamell$ ,silv] ,broo* ,w4 ,,hodgk9son ,silv] ,broo* ) ,beads ( ,enamel ,,annie ,mc,l,e,i,s,h ,broo* 9 ,silv] & ,enamel ,,kate ,,all5 ,silv] ,broo* set ) ,r$ ,coral ,,isabel ,mc,b,e,a,n ,silv] ,locket ,enamell$ ,w4 ,,hodgk9son ,broo* 9 ,gold & ,enamel ) ,pe>l ,c5tre ,,kate ,,all5 ,broo*1 ,silv] & ,enamel ,a4 ,e4 ,,arscott ,silv] ,broo* enri*$ ) ,enamel ,,annie ,mc,l,e,i,s,h ,enamell$ ,silv] ,broo* ,w4 ,,hodgk9son ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #bi ,illu/ration3 ,belt ,buckles 9 ,silv]1 ,niello & ,enamels ,,w9ifr$ ,,hodgk9son ,,plate #cj ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,enamell$ ,silv] ,belt-,clasp ,,kate ,,all5 ,b4 ,silv] ,clasp set ) ,/ones ,b4 ,j4 ,,b>rie ,,plate #ca ,illu/ration3 ,clasps 9 ,silv] & ,enamel ,,annie ,mc,l,e,i,s,h ,,plate #cb ,illu/ration3 ,wat* ,backs 9 ,silv] & ,enamels ,,kate ,,all5 ,,plate #cc 7,briti%7 ,broo* 9 ,silv] & ,enamel ,,david ,,veazey ,broo* 9 ,silv]1 ,enamel1 & ,preci\s ,/ones ,b4 ,j4 ,,b>rie ,gold ,p5dant ) ,pe>ls1 & ,turquoise1 & ,*amplev ,enamel ,,doro?y ,,h>t ,gold ,p5dant enri*$ ) ,enamel ,e4 ,,l>combe ,silv] ,p5dant ) ,enamel ,,m9nie ,,mclei% ,broo* 9 ,silv] & ,enamel ,,annie ,,mclei% ,enamell$ ,silv] ,broo* ,,m9nie ,,mclei% ,enamell$ ,broo* 9 ,silv] ,n4 ,,ev]s-,,sw9dell ,broo* 9 ,gold & ,enamel ,m4 ,,alaba/] ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #cd ,illu/ration3 ,silv] ,clasps set ) ,/ones ,,oliv] ,,bak] ,,plate #ce ,illu/ration3 ,briti% ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,,fig4 ,c ,a4 ,silv] ,p5dant set ) ,opal 9 matrix ,,edg> ,,simpson ,b & ,c4 ,silv] ,buckles ,,oliv] ,,bak] ,,plate #cf ,illu/ration3 ,clasps 9 ,silv] & ,enamels ,,kate ,,fi%] ,,plate #cg ,illu/ration3 ,clasps 9 ,silv] & ,enamels ,,kate ,,all5 ,,plate #ch ,p9 9 ,beat5 ,silv] & ,enamel ,d4 ,,veazey ,hair ,p9 9 ,silv] & ,enamel ,e4 ,m4 ,,hodgk9son ,p9 9 ,silv] & ,enamel ,e4 ,m4 ,,hodgk9son ,p9 9 ,beat5 ,silv] & ,enamel ,d4 ,,veazey ,p9 9 ,beat5 ,silv] & ,enamel ,d4 ,,veazey ,silv] ,hair ,p9 t\*$ ) ,enamel ,,annie ,,mclei% ,hair ,p9 ( ,gold decorat$ ) ,enamel & ,"m-(-pe>l ,w4 ,,hodgk9son ,hair ,p9 9 ,silv] & ,enamel ,e4 ,m4 ,,hodgk9son ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ci ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,c ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,,fig4 ,d ,a & ,b4 ,jewell$ ,broo*es 9 beat5 ,copp] ,c & ,d4 ,jewell$ ,buckles 9 beat5 ,alum9ium ,,talw9 ,,morris ,,plate #dj ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,,fig4 ,c ,a ,jewell$ ,%oe-,buckle 9 beat5 ,copp] ,b4 ,cloak ,clasp 9 beat5 ,silv] ,c4 ,wai/-b& ,clasp 9 beat5 ,silv] ,,talw9 ,,morris ,,plate #da ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,,fig4 ,c ,a & ,b4 ,buckles 9 beat5 ,alum9ium ,,talw9 ,,morris ,c4 ,p5dants 9 ,silv]2 ! upp] "o ) ,enamels1 ! l[] ) ,turquoises ,,frances ,,mcnair ,,plate #db ,illu/ration3 ,silv] ,f+] ,r+ set ) ,pe>ls1 ,ame?y/s1 & ,rubies ,,*>les ,r4 ,,mac9to% ,silv] ,broo* & ,p5dant ,he>t set ) ,rubies1 ,pe>ls1 & ,turquoises ,m4 ,,macdonald ,,mack9to% ,,plate #dc ,illu/ration3 ,necklet ( beat5 ,silv]1 *as$1 & set ) ,fire ,opals ,,ar?ur ,j4 ,,gask9 ,,plate #dd ,illu/ration3 ,silv] ,p5dant & ,*a9 set ) ,turquoises & ,*rysoprase ,,ar?ur ,j4 ,,gask9 ,,plate #de ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,silv] ,belt ,b4 ,silv] ,necklet1 set ) ,pe>l ,bli/]s1 ,coral & ,aquam>9e ,,fr$ ,s4 ,,rob9son ,,plate #df ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,silv] ,*a9 & ,p5dants set ) ,/ones ,,isabel ,mc,b,e,a,n ,b4 ,enamell$ ,silv] ,p5dant ,,m9nie ,mc,l,e,i,s,h ,,plate #dg ,silv] ,clasp enri*$ ) ,enamel ,,annie ,,alaba/] ,silv] ,clasp inset ) ,enamel ,,david ,,veazey ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #dh ,illu/ration3 ,silv] & ,enamel ,clasps1 ,p9s & ,broo*es ,,edi? ,,pickett ,,plate #di ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,,fig4 ,c ,,fig4 ,e ,,fig4 ,d ,,fig4 ,f ,,fig4 ,g ,a1 ,d1 ,g4 ,broo*es & a ,cross 9 ,gold1 set ) ,/ones ,,annie ,mc,l,e,i,s,h ,b4 ,broo* 9 ,silv] & ,enamels ,,david ,,veazey ,c4 ,silv] ,broo* ) ,opals ,,e!l ,m4 ,,hodgk9son ,f4 ,broo* 9 ,silv]1 ,enamel & ,pe>ls ,,nora ,,ev]s-,,sw9dell ,,plate #ej ,illu/ration3 ,f\r ,silv] ,hat ,p9s ,design$ by ,,arabella ,,rank9 ,execut$ by ,j4 ,m4 ,,talbot ,,plate #ea ,illu/ration3 ,a4 ,six ,p9s 9 ,silv] & ,enamel ,,nora ,,ev]s-,,sw9dell ,b4 ,two ,p9s 9 ,silv] & ,enamel ,,w9ifr$ ,,hodgk9son ,c4 ,two ,silv] ,p9s set ) ,enamel ,,e!l ,m4 ,,hodgk9son ,,plate #eb ,,mod]n ,,au/rian ,,jewell]y4 ,by ,w4 ,,fr$4 ,illu/ration ,critical exam9ation ( ! jewell]y ( any p>ticul> p]iod _c fail to be practically a *apt] ( ! hi/ory ( culture4 ,! popul> say+3 ,e "t has ! poet x des]ves1 is sup]ficially true1 yet holds )9 itself a c]ta9 elem5t ( falsehood1 z does pretty well e commonplace prov]b ( ! same k9d4 ,h[ev]1 if ! s5t5ce be slightly modifi$1 z x v well may be1 s t x reads1 ,e "t has ! jewell]y x des]ves1 !re w be absolutely no?+ untrue ab\t x1 = ! ornam5ts worn1 :e!r on ! dress1 ! hair1 or ! p]son ( ! we>]1 h always reflect$ 9 a m>k$ degree ! ta/e ( _! p]iod1 & are v di/9ctly diff]5tiat$ f ^? ( any o!r "t1 s t *anges 9 fa%ion imply *anges ( a m radical description 9 popul> feel+4 ,a hi/ory ( p]sonal ornam5t is op5 to _m side issues1 & unfolds itself 9 two diff]5t--inde$1 opposite--directions4 ,primitive savages1 z is well kn[n1 we> ornam5ts be=e !y take to clo!s4 ,! ,fiji isl&]s sport gold *a9s r\nd _! necks1 & ! ,african negroes 9 _! untam$ /ate load !mselves ) e glitt]+ object !y c get hold (1 look+ ^u ! multiplication ( ornam5ts z a sign ( weal?4 ,v diff]5t1 ( c\rse1 is ! /ate ( civilisation ( ^? :o look ^u decoration z an evid5ce ( art culture1 & c>e only = su* ornam5ts z require ! ex]cise ( te*nical skill 9 _! production1 valu+ !m 9 proportion to ! am\nt ( t skill display$ by _! craftsm51 r ?an ! intr9sic value ( _! mat]ial4 ,! "t ( ! ,italian ,r5aissance is an in/ance ( ! tru? ( ?is4 ,z has s (t5 be=e be5 ! case 9 ! times ( transition :i* are ( inevitable recurr5ce1 our own mod]n epo* is *>act]is$ by a c]ta9 unre/ & confusion1 9 :i* _m t5d5cies are cont5d+ ) ea* o!r side by side1 & neutralis+1 to a great ext5t1 ea* o!r's effects4 ,9 ,am]ica1 ! ,tiffany company seems to aim at produc+ masses ( preci\s /ones1 :i* w give prim>ily ! impression ( ! great weal? ( _! own] & produc]2 :]eas1 9 ,france1 ,lalique ! jewell] endeav\rs r to ?r[ into ! backgr\nd ! actual value ( ! jewels1 _! arti/ic sett+ be+ ! fir/ ?+ to /rike ! obs]v]4 ,we 9 ,au/ria h great] lean+s to ,france ?an to ,am]ica1 & preci\s /ones1 h[ev] great _! intr9sic value1 are look$ ^u z ( q second>y value 9 mod]n art-"w to beauty ( l9e & ( col\r4 ,fr5* influ5ce on ,au/rian "w _c fail to be recognis$4 ,its g]ms fell inde$ on a soil ( exceptional f]tility1 ) ! result t !y h tak5 root & borne abundant fruit4 ,x %\ld p]haps1 h[ev]1 be rem>k$ t ^? races :o are ! heirs ( a /rong art tradition d n ne$1 z d o!rs less =tunate1 to prove ! weal? ( _! inh]itance by ! use ( lavi% ornam5t4 ,_! inh]5t arti/ic culture is inde$ evid5c$ by ! fact t !y expect _! arti/s to ex]cise _! skill on mat]ials less co/ly ?an d ^? :o1 to a c]ta9 ext5t1 h _! reputations /ill to make4 ,b5v5uto ,cell9i _h to be cont5t to "w 9 silv]1 ! ,am]icans want to h e /ick or umbrella-h&le to be ( gold4 ,if we ca/ a glance1 h[ev] ha/y & cursory x may be1 ov] ! developm5t ( jewell]y 9 ,vi5na1 not+ ! =ms mo/ popul> 9 t city 9 pa/ times1 x is impossible n to be /ruck ) ! way 9 :i* e hi/orical phase ( art is reflect$ 9 ^! =ms4 ,! fav\rite /yle ) ,vi5nese jewell]s1 & t 9 :i* ! mo/ effective1 & at ! same "t ! mo/ *>act]i/ic1 results h be5 a*iev$ 0 und\bt$ly ! s-call$ b>oque1 a t]m orig9ally re/rict$ to a precise ar*itecture or art-/yle alone1 b n[ loosely appli$ to *>act]ise any ornam5tal design ( an unusual k9d4 ,x is 9 ?is half-s]i\s1 half-sportive /yle1 ) its grotesque yet bold effects & its complete fre$om f conv5tion1 t ! f9e/ pieces ( ,au/rian jewell]y h be5 produc$4 ,at ! "t ( ! great ,congress ( ,vi5na1 :5 ! repres5tatives ( ! ,p[]s met 9 t city to settle ! affairs ( ,europe aft] ! fall ( ,napoleon--t is to say1 ab\t "o hundr$ ye>s lat] ?an ! fir/ introduction ( ! b>oque /yle f ,italy1 ,fr5* "w1 ?\gh x 0 ( a crude description1 ex]cis$ an influ5ce ov] ,au/rian jewell]s1 & :at seem$ l a second r5aissance ( ! art ( ornam5t began 9 ,au/ria4 ,! art ( jewell]y 9 ,au/ria rema9$ "u ,fr5* influ5ce almo/ until ! pres5t day--9 fact1 ?r\gh\t ! :ole ( ! #ai? c5tury--& x has only be5 9 ! la/ ye> t ,au/rian art-indu/ries h be5 set free f ! =eign yoke :i* s long oppress$ !m1 s t ! true ,vi5nese /yle ( jewell]y has b r>ely come to ! =e4 ,n[ at la/1 h[ev]1 ! lib]at+ influ5ce ( ! mod]n _s is mak+ itself felt 9 ! art ( jewell]y1 z 9 ev]y?+ else2 & e ornam5t produc$1 :e!r 9 preci\s /ones or 9 enamel1 be>s ! unmi/akable impress ( ! di/9ctive psy*ic "* ( our capital city1 :i* ev5 =eign]s d n fail to recognise4 ,! result ( ?is individuality is t a "w ( art is indissolubly b\nd up ) ! p]sonality ( its creator1 & ) ! idiosyncrasies ( ! t[n :i* 0 its bir?place4 ,9 ,au/ria m5 we> v little jewell]y1 & ! only notewor?y examples ( ornam5ts made = !m :i* c be quot$ are a few r+s & *>ms1 ! =m] p]haps adorn$ ) designs 9 l[-relief4 ,! flat gold circle ( ! w$d+-r+1 :i* c be easily c>ri$ 9 ! wai/coat pocket1 & ! engagem5t-r+1 ! psy*ic mean+ ( :i* is cle> en\gh1 ! latt] g5]ally be>+ "o l>ge diamond or o!r preci\s /one1 d n af=d mu* scope = ! /hetic feel+ ( _! mak]s4 ,a man :o v5tures to we> mu* jewell]y is call$ old-fa%ion$1 b !re are /ill p :o d>e to sport a s+le great diamond or "s o!r simple ornam5t on _! %irt fronts4 ,a pe>l )\t sett+1 an em]ald1 or s-call$ sapphire en cabo*on1 are /ill frequ5tly se54 ,! pres5t fa%ion all[+ m5 to tie _! cravats 9 all mann] ( diff]5t /yles to suit _! own p>ticul> fancy1 has l$ to ! manufacture ( a few v>ieties ( sc>f r+s :i* admit ( a c]ta9 am\nt ( arti/ic int]tw9+ ( ! gold1 if x be gold ( :i* !y are made4 ,:5 ! mak+ ( jewell]y = m5 is left to ! unfett]$ imag9ation ( ! arti/1 he g5]ally produces some?+ qua9tly orig9al & fanta/ic1 su* z que] figurals1 grotesque masks1 comic c>icatures ( human or half-human figures or faces1 etc4 ,on ! o!r h&1 !re is no d\bt t !re is f> m activity 9 ! production ( jewell]y = wom5 9 ,vi5na ?an 9 almo/ any o!r city4 ,! culture ( our t[n is1 inde$1 ess5tially fem99e4 ,! graceful & witty1 yet dreamy & passionate1 girls & wom5 ( ,vi5na give to x its di/9ctive "*4 ,a =eign] :o once sp5t two days only 9 our capital 0 yet able to say ( x1 t all ?r\gh 8 w&]+s 9 its /reets & alleys ! rhy?m ( female culture 0 s\nd+ 9 8 e>s4 ,! m5 ( ,vi5na pride !mselves m ?an ! ,fr5*1 m ev5 ?an ! p ( ,nor!rn ,europe1 on _! wom51 & z a result ( ?is pride !re is sure to be pl5ty ( beautiful jewell]y ( v>i$ design to be met ) 9 ! t[n 9 :i* !y live4 ,among/ jewels & preci\s /ones ! spotless :ite pe>l is p]haps ! fav\rite1 b1 z prov$ at ! la/ great ,exhibition 9 ,p>is1 ! pale rose-col\r$ coral f ! ,ea/ runs x v close4 ,diamonds are /ill set 9 ! old-fa%ion$ way--t is to say1 aft] simple designs1 ! be/ ( :i* are copies f ,r5aissance or b>oque models4 ,only n[ & !n is any attempt made to produce lightly incis$ repres5tations direct f ,nature ( fl[]s1 birds1 or leaves4 ,( c\rse1 b\quets ( brilliants & leaves consi/+ entirely ( diamonds h always be5 easily made at any p]iod2 b :at is n[ aim$ at = t v reason is ! evolution ( designs :i* %all be ess5tially true to ,nature1 b at ! same "t really arti/ic4 ,crude masses ( naturali/ic fl[]s are really ( no acc\nt :atev]1 = a b\quet ( diamonds c nev] h ! exquisite *>m ( a fre%1 sweet-smell+ bun* ( real blossoms4 ,only a fairly good design1 f\nd$ on "s fl[] or leaf :i* c be satisfactorily reproduc$ 91 & is1 s to speak1 en rapport )1 ! jewels to be us$1 c succe$ 9 pleas+ ?r\gh beauty ( =m alone1 indep5d5tly ( any association4 ,good examples ( ! be/ /yle ( ornam5t 9 :i* preci\s /ones are us$ are ! necklace1 figur$ h]e)1 ) ! e>r+s to mat*1 by ,roset & ,fis*mei/]4 ,9 !m ! natural =m1 :i* has be5 ! motive f :i* ! design 0 evolv$1 0 ! fruit & leaf ( ! r>e plant kn[n 9 ,g]many z ! ,g+opflanze4 ,! delicate sep>ate /ems are work$ 9 dull gold1 & ! way ! jo9+ is manag$ _c fail to be admir$1 :il/ ! s+le /ems are 9 plat9um4 ,! *>m & di/9ction ( ?is piece ( jewell]y is due above all to its beauty ( =m1 9 o!r words x is n ! gross value ( ! preci\s /ones ) :i* x is set :i* makes x a wor?y possession1 b ! skill ) :i* ! motive has be5 work$ out4 ,vi5nese jewell]s d n use ! col\rless preci\s /ones mu*4 ,!y g5]ally comb9e jewels ) enamel1 & also ) :at !y !mselves call ! col\r$ ,halb$el/e9e1 or half-jewels1 su* z ! agate1 onyx1 cornelian1 & o!r less valuable preci\s /ones4 ,! mod]n t5d5cy is 9 e case to rely ^u col\r & l9e = effect r ?an ^u massive =m1 s t ! great] numb] ( new designs1 or ( reviv$ designs ( ! pa/1 require = _! satisfactory treatm5t :at may be almo/ *>act]is$ z a new te*nique4 ,fir/ ( all1 ! mod]n buckle = ! belt or girdle claims att5tion4 ,! lately reviv$ cu/om ( we>+ ! bl\se l$1 z a matt] ( c\rse1 to ! use ( ! belt ) a m or less ornate buckle1 j z1 a few ye>s ago1 ! long necklace came into g5]al use aga94 ,! "y wom5 ( ! pres5t day f\nd bo? all ready = use 9 ! jewel-*e/s ( _! gr&mo!rs4 ,x seems likely1 too1 t !re w pres5tly be a revival ( ! co/ly %\ld]-clasps :i* us$ to be ! fa%ion 9 ! "t ( ! ,empire1 & if ?is be ! case1 ! new fancy w probably1 to "s ext5t1 ou/ ! belt buckle f popul> fav\r4 ,9 ! design+ ( ornam5ts = ! neck1 art jewell]s h f> m scope ?an =m]ly = ! ex]cise ( _! imag9ation1 & !y are dispos$1 to "s ext5t1 to foll[ ! ,fr5* mode1 t is to say1 !y make necklaces flat & broad1 s z to give an effect ( sl5d]ness to ! ?roat ( ! we>]4 ,x is a matt] ( c\rse t combs & p9s = ! hair are (t5 ( v f9e workman%ip1 %[+ mu* skill & ta/e on ! "p ( _! design]s4 ,/range to say1 h[ev]1 ev5 9 ,vi5na1 few r+s = wom5 ( real art value are produc$4 ,9 c]ta9 cases1 h[ev]1 ! p5dants 9 gold relief1 9 cry/al1 or 9 enamel1 are ( pleas+1 ?\gh n p>ticul>ly orig9al design4 ,work+ 9 enamel is ( c\rse an indep5d5t art 9 itself1 & to beg9 )1 ,i mu/ rem>k t1 z a g5]al rule1 beautiful z are ! col\r effects produc$ by ,vi5nese craftsm51 x is impossible to reproduce exactly ! delicate *>m ( ! orig9al sket*es f :i* ! designs are work$ out4 ,v good results c1 h[ev]1 be obta9$ 9 :at ! ,fr5* call mail j\r1 or mail translucide1 z well z 9 ! old-fa%ion$ opaque enamel4 ,x w\ld1 h[ev]1 be out ( place "h to attempt to describe ! v>i\s modifications ( :at may n[ be call$ an int]national art4 ,gu/av ,gurs*n] is a sculptor p> excell5ce4 ,8 f+]s are accu/om$ to m\ld+ clay or pla/] designs 9 su* a mann] z to be readily reproduc$ 9 bronze4 ,8 slim & graceful /atuettes hold+ c&les or gongs1 & o!r arti/ically design$ objects = h\sehold use1 h all a di/9ctly ,vi5nese "*4 ,8 *>m+ nude figures are full alike ( *ildlike innoc5ce & n]v\s /r5g?1 & are moreov] in/9ct ) ! spiritual expression :i* naturally belong$ to _! orig9als4 ,gurs*n]'s designs = jewell]y h v mu* ! same effect ^u a true judge4 ,! great ?+ di/+ui%+ 8 "w f t ( 8 contempor>ies is ! fact t x is modell$ f ! liv+ figure1 n z is g5]ally ! case1 f m]e wat]-col\r sket*es4 ,! diff]5ce _c fail to /rike ! mo/ sup]ficial obs]v]4 ,else:]e1 col\r is (t5 ! *ief consid]ation2 ) ,gurs*n] x is =m4 ,9 mod]n decorative "w1 silv] is n[ v l>gely us$ & appreciat$4 ,x is h] skilful use ( ?is mat]ial :i* has won s high a position = ,elsa ,ung]1 a daught] ( ! wond]fully successful et*]1 ,pr(essor ,william ,ung]4 ,elsa ,ung] has a v great pr$ilection = silv]1 & has atta9$ to r>e skill 9 express+ h]self 9 t mat]ial4 ,%e h]self kn[s p]fectly well h[ to deal ) x at e /age ( its progress z art mat]ial4 ,%e c hamm] x out & *isel x2 %e c engrave x1 & comb9e ) x beautiful mail j\r ( s(t1 h>moni\s col\r+4 ,"o ( ! mo/ notewor?y peculi>ities ( ,elsa ,ung]'s "w is1 inde$1 h] ma/]y ( h] mat]ial4 ,%e is n cont5t1 z are un=tunately mo/ ( h] contempor>ies1 ) delegat+ to o!rs ! work+ out ( h] designs1 b %e h]self sees to e detail1 do+ all ! "w ) h] own h&s4 ,"s ( h] articles1 su* z g5tlem5's /uds & sleeve-l9ks1 9 beat5 silv]1 reliev$ ) blue enamel1 are alike simple & elegant1 & h ! r>e advantage ( be+ also *eap4 ,) ,elsa ,ung] may be class$ ano!r woman work] 9 silv]1 ,anna ,wagn]1 :o has produc$ among/ o!r ta/eful "w a beautiful silv] buckle1 reliev$ ) enamel4 ,among/ m5 :o h won a reputation z skilful work]s 9 silv] maybe nam$ ,e4 ,holz+] & ,franz ,mesm]1 :o 7 tra9$ 9 ! same in/itution z ,elsa ,ung] & ,anna ,wagn]1 ! ,s*ool ( ,art ,craftsman%ip connect$ ) ! ,museum ( ,vi5na1 well kn[n = ! ?or\ghness ( ! in/ruction giv5 9 x4 ,9 ?is academy1 :i* 0 ?or\ghly re=m$ a few ye>s ago1 & is n[ "u ! able direction ( ,b>on ,myrba*1 ! /ud5ts le>n to e/eem skill 9 art craftsman%ip z x des]ves1 & become ?or\ghly famili> ) ! mat]ials employ$ 9 x4 ,9 ! c\rse ( _! tra9+1 feel+ = true beauty & elegance is mix$1 s to speak1 ) _! v blood1 becom+ "p ( _! natures1 s t !y _c g f> wrong4 ,look1 = in/ance1 at "s ( ! combs made by ,elsa ,ung]4 ,h[ delicately h>monis$ are ! beat5 silv] & ! pale lilac-col\r$ enamel1 & h[ well ! gracefully curv+ l9es ( ! two mat]ials bl5d ) & melt into ea* o!r6 ,h[ *a/ely effective1 moreov]1 is ! way 9 :i* ! leaf-motive is work$ out 9 ! p9s = ! hair design$ by ,mesm]1 & :at a happy ?\ght x 0 to make ! _m-col\r$ half-jewels1 or jewels ( m9or value1 em]ge z !y d f ! beat5 silv]4 ,^! works are1 moreov]1 a v /rik+ example ( h[ necessity may sometimes become a virtue4 ,! *eapness ( mat]ial1 s ess5tial 9 an educational e/abli%m5t1 has n be5 all[$ to detract 9 ! v slighte/ degree f ! beauty ( ! "w produc$2 s t x is possible to h a real "w ( art1 ( :i* b few examples are produc$1 at a v l[ price--say f ab\t ?irty-five %ill+s2 & t "w is n a ma*9e-made article1 b "o ! production ( :i*1 by 8 or h] own h&1 has be5 a true lab\r ( love to ! design]1 m>k+ a real progress 9 art culture4 ,to ! ,te*nical ,academy ( ,vi5na ! ar*itect1 ,otto ,pruts*]1 & ! pa9t]1 ,v4 ,s*o5?on]1 also owe mu*1 b ! *>m ( _! "w consi/s r 9 its col\r ?an 9 its =m4 ,mu* is to be hop$ 9 ! future f bo? ( ^! tal5t$ arti/s1 & :at !y h already produc$ proves t !re has be5 no sacrifice ( individuality1 no cramp+ ( special t5d5cies1 su* z is s mu* to be deprecat$ else:]e1 9 ! tra9+ !y h receiv$4 ,otto ,pruts*]'s necklaces & r+s are rem>kable alike = ! beauty & h>moni\s v>iety ( _! col\r+4 ,he uses enamel to a great ext5t1 & also q small preci\s /ones4 ,v uncommon1 too1 is ! way 9 :i* he employs metal1 ?\gh only en\gh ( x to hold ! enamel 9 its place4 ,x w\ld appe> z if ! arti/ _h 9 8 m9d a vision ( ! wom5 :o are to we> 8 "w1 :o are too t5d] & frail to c>ry any weight1 s t ! use ( mu* metal 9 ornam5ts = !m w\ld be q unsuitable4 ,= a ,salome or a ,que5 ( ,%eba t sort ( ?+ is sc>cely appropriate--b x is done = ! s(tly nurtur$ ,mignonne ( ! pres5t day4 ,! little col\r$ p9s design$ by ,f4 ,s*o5?on] are also noticeable = _! elegance & suitability = ! purpose = :i* !y are int5d$4 ,a ^w ( un/9t$ praise mu/ be accord$ to ! graceful designs ( ! tal5t$ ,frule9 ,eug5ie ,munk1 ^: skill & good ta/e h be5 devot$ to ! production ( a great deal ( v beautiful & ref9$ jewell]y4 ,i h already spok5 ( ! "w 9 diamonds ( ,roset & ,fis*mei/]1 & ,i %\ld l to ref] to ^? two ma/] craftsm5 aga9 9 connection ) "s ( _! figural ornam5ts1 su* z buckles = belts1 r+s1 /uds = %irt fronts & cuffs1 etc41 work$ 9 dull or bright gold1 all ( :i* ,i consid] wor?y to be spok5 ( z ,vi5nese works ( art4 ,! diff]5t masks on ! /uds1 ea* ) its own individual expression1 really display q rem>kable tal5t 9 _! design]1 = !y are n only ?or\ghly arti/ic b mo/ amus+ /udies 9 physiognomy4 ,un=tunately x is impossible to give 9 reproductions ( su* "w any true idea ( ! subtle mann] 9 :i* ! blue-gre5 col\rs ( ! enamels1 ! gleam+ :ite ( ! diamonds1 & ! pe>ly opal9e t9ts ( ! moon/ones1 h>monize ) ea* o!r & ) ! gold ( _! sett+ 9 ! beautiful necklaces ( ,messrs4 ,roset & ,fis*mei/]4 ,! wat*-*a9s = m51 ) _! f9ely-modell$ & *>act]i/ic ornam5ts1 manufactur$ by ! firm ( ,f4 ,h(/ett]1 mu/ also be m5tion$ on acc\nt ( ! skill ) :i* ! l9ks are int]wov54 ,! p5dant is design$ f a sket* made by ,pr(essor ,/ephan ,s*w>tz4 ,two o!r designs f ! same firm %[ v consid]able skill4 ,v int]e/+ is ! way 9 :i* ! mat]ials are comb9$ 9 ! belt-buckles by ,franz ,hauptmann4 ,! wat]-lily buckle is ( gre5i% gold1 & ! enamel1 :i* is ( ! translucid v>iety1 is also ( a gre5 hue1 z are ! onyx /ones work$ into ! design4 ,! motive is ! fl[] & se$ ( ! wat]-lily1 & f ! wat]1 repres5t$ 9 enamel1 rise up ! delicate fl[]s 9 ! same mat]ial ( a sn[y :it5ess4 ,an exam9ation ( ! sket*es ( designs = jewell]y1 reproduc$ "h1 _c fail to br+ "o fact =cibly be=e ! m9d4 ,me*anical repetition is mo/ c>efully avoid$1 & z a result e example reta9s its own unique *>m--! m>k ( ! arti/'s h&4 ,w4 ,,fr$4 ,sc>f ,p9 ,v4 ,,s*,,n?on] ,sc>f ,p9 ,v4 ,,s*,,n?on] ,sc>f ,p9 ,v4 ,,s*,,n?on] ,silv] ,broo* ) ,enamel ,f4 ,,mesm] ,p5dant 9 ,gold1 ,enamel & ,pe>ls ,,otto ,,pruts*] ,silv] ,broo* ) ,enamel ,,josef ,,h(/ett] ,sc>f ,p9 ,v4 ,,s*,,n?on] ,head ( ,sc>f ,p9 ,v4 ,,s*,,n?on] ,head ( ,sc>f ,p9 ,,otto ,,pruts*] ,silv] ,broo* ) ,enamel ,f4 ,,mesm] ,gold ,broo* ) ,enamel ,,otto ,,pruts*] ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #a4 ,illu/ration3 ,necklace ( ,brilliants ,,roset ,,fis*mei/] ,,plate #b ,illu/ration3 ,jewell]y ,,roset ,,fis*mei/] ,,plate #c ,illu/ration3 ,belt-,buckles 9 gre5i% ,gold1 enri*$ ) ,onyx ,/ones & ,enamel ,,franz ,,hauptmann ,,plate #d ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,,figs4 ,c ,d ,a4 ,silv] ,p5dant & ,*a9 ,! ,*a9 by ,j4 ,,h(/ett] ,! ,p5dant by ,,pr(4 ,,s*w>tz ,b4 ,a ,comb 9 ,silv] & ,horn ,j4 ,,h(/ett] ,c & ,d4 ,gold ,p5dants set ) ,preci\s ,/ones ,,otto ,,pruts*] ,,plate #e ,illu/ration3 ,jewell]y ,,otto ,,pruts*] ,,plate #f ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,,fig4 ,c ,a4 ,belt & ,silv] ,clasp ,,emil ,,gr+old ,b & ,c4 ,silv]-m\nt$ ,combs ,,elsa ,,ung] ,,plate #g ,illu/ration3 ,necklace ,e4 ,,holz+] ,,elsa ,,ung] ,?reefold ,clasp1 ,upp] ,c5tral ,clasp ,e4 ,,holz+] ,f4 ,,mesm] ,l>ge ,tw(old ,silv] ,clasp ,,anna ,,wagn] ,broo*es & ,l9ks ,e4 ,,holz+]1 ,e4 ,,ung] ,a4 ,,wagn] ,,plate #h ,,mod]n ,,g]man ,,jewell]y4 ,,by ,,*r4 ,,f]d9& ,,morawe4 ,illu/ration ,my opportunities ( survey+ ! ,g]man jewell]y m>ket1 & ( mak+ acqua9tance ) ! ins & outs ( ! jewell]s' bus9ess1 h be5 limit$2 b x is c]ta9 t bo? are fl\ri%+2 at lea/1 ! ,g]man jewell]s d n look z if !y />v$6 ,moreov]1 ! dem& = preci\s ornam5ts seems to increase ye> by ye>1 & ! display 9 ! jewell]s' w9d[s gr[s m & m luxuri\s1 z is ! case ) mo/ o!r bus9esses4 ,nobody w /ore sup]flu\s & unm>ketable goods1 lea/ ( all ! jewell]1 :o is always a bus9ess man4 ,y w be ?or\ghly aw>e ( ?is fact if y />t discuss+ art ) him4 ,he is cauti\s & suspici\s ( any?+ 9 ! %ape ( novelty4 ,he seems to say to himself3 ,?is arti/ has ideas2 he wants to %[ some?+ new2 b we _c agree ) ^! ideas1 = we d n "k if we %all be able to d bus9ess4 ,?is is a great pity1 = ! trade 9 wom5's ornam5ts (f]s m arti/ic scope ?an almo/ any o!r4 ,x is n en\gh n[adays j to set "s nicely poli%$ /ones neatly1 or to be s lavi% ( mat]ial t ! ornam5t produc$ repres5ts an imm5se value2 = ! result w probably be some?+ n at all arti/ic4 ,inde$1 ?is g5]ally occurs4 ,! lot ( ! arti/ :o designs wom5's ornam5ts is n a happy "o1 & x is almo/ l a message f heav5 :5 a jewell] tells him t he w really condesc5d to c>ry out an orig9al design4 ,ev5 !n he mu/ sometimes put up ) ! fact t 8 design1 :i* 0 int5d$ = "o p]son or purpose only1 is repeat$1 l a manufactur$ article1 a hundr$ & a ?\s& times aga94 ,happily !re are "s arti/s 9 ,g]many1 z 9 ,engl&1 ,france1 & ,belgium1 :o are above ! fa%ion1 & ^: arti/ic individuality is s /rong t !y are b\nd to succe$ 9 o!r sph]es ( art z well z 9 t ( wom5's jewell]y4 ,two ( ! fir/ to %[ activity 9 ?is direction 7 ! ,b]l9 arti/s1 ,hirzel & ,mhr+4 ,bo? *ose = _! ornam5ts ! same mann] & me?ods :i* ,eckmann & 8 fell[-work]s _h previ\sly employ$ 9 decorative art2 !y adh]$ z closely z possible to simple natural plant-=ms1 especially ,hirzel4 ,?allmayr1 ( ,muni*1 is /ill work+ 9 ! same /yle1 b ) m individuality ?an ,hirzel4 ,?allmayr w c]ta9ly sp5d 8 life /udy+ ! leaves & blossoms ( ! trees & ! fl[]s 9 8 g>d51 :ile ! o!r w d\btless produce new results1 dep>t+ some:at f ! real =ms ( nature4 ,mhr+'s works already %[$ ?is t5d5cy :5 he produc$ !m ne>ly at ! same "t z ,hirzel 84 ,subsequ5tly ^! arti/s 7 occupi$ less ) wom5's ornam5ts ?an ) o!r ?+s com+ )9 ! category ( decorative art1--?is ow+ to lack ( intellig5ce & ent]prise on ! "p ( ! jewell]s & manufactur]s4 ,tables1 *airs1 & o!r necess>y h\sehold articles f\nd a mu* wid] m>ket4 ,b we are n[ deal+ exclusively ) wom5's ornam5ts4 ,two circum/ances 9 ?is connection are v /range4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 x seems t ! arti/s ( ! pres5t "t 7,i speak ( ,g]many7 are n successful 9 design+ f+]-r+s4 ,"h & !re "o sees an attempt made to design *>act]i/ic %apes1 b ! sph]e ( ! r+ is s conf9$ t nobody has succe$$ 9 produc+ any?+ really elegant & novel4 ,mo/ly "o sees extravagant examples1 ( confus$ design4 ,! second peculi> fact is1 t "o v seldom f9ds an arti/ devot+ himself to design+ e>r+s4 ,! :ole arti/ic movem5t 9 relation to wom5's ornam5ts is /ill some:at pu]ile4 ,?is may be recognis$ by ! abs5ce ( ! e>-r+1 t mo/ sup]ior ornam5t1 :i*1 unlike all o!rs1 has an indep5d5t language ( its own4 ,al?\gh 9 ! li/ ( female ornam5ts ! clasp & ! broo* occupy ! =emo/ place1 ! p5dant = ! brea/ %\ld n be =gott54 ,! mission ( ! p5dant is to %[ by its fancy & its ta/efulness h[ & 9 :at degree ! ,g]man is di/+ui%$ f ! ,engli%man & f ! ,fr5*man4 ,i w m5tion 9 ?is connection two arti/s liv+ 9 ,g]many :o are n ,g]mans1 b by _! mann] ( life & "w might be su*4 ,bo? ^! arti/s1 9 _! sev]al ways1 w ex]cise great influ5ce on ! developm5t ( our ornam5ts4 ,i ref] to ,van d] ,velde & ,olbri*4 ,x is well kn[n t ! fir/ is a ,belgian1 :ile ! o!r is a =eign]1 inasmu* z he comes f ,au/ria4 ,olbri*'s p5dants & p9s are v *>act]i/ic4 ,he takes a hamm]$ gold-plate1 enri*es x ) preci\s /ones & enamel1 & adds a rim set ) long pe>ls4 ,x is easy to see t he is fond ( rummag+ among ! treasures ( ! old ca!drals & conv5ts2 he kn[s ! secret ( _! effect1 &1 besides ?is1 he has an extraord9>y tal5t = inv5t+ new ?+s himself4 ,8 jewell]y is ! be/ we h n[ 9 ,g]many1 because x is sup]ior to fa%ions & p]iods4 ,8 jewels are pure1 ?\ghtful works ( art4 ,:5 worn1 !y produce a mo/ sumptu\s effect2 b _! ri*ness has no?+ tawdry ab\t x4 ,^! jewels %[ u h[ we ought to deck our wives1 bo? at home & at ! !atre2 moreov]1 !y sugge/ ?+s fit = ! lady sup]iors ( religi\s ord]s1 = abbesses1 ev5 = our que5s4 ,!y %[ u too h[ our burgoma/]s' *a9s1 ) _! insignificant crosses & />s1 might be improv$4 ,^! ideas are p]haps at pres5t z intangible z a beautiful dream1 b t is no reason :y we %\ld n indulge our fancy 9 ?is direction4 ,= ! mom5t1 h[ev]1 we mu/ be satisfi$ if ! jewell] is incl9$ to c>ry out our designs4 ,look+ fur!r among our arti/s1 we f9d ,k>l ,gross1 ( ,dresd54 ,mr4 ,gross1 :o =m]ly liv$ 9 ,muni*1 delight$ u :ile !re ) a good _m beautiful designs = jewell]y4 ,he produc$ n only female ornam5ts1 b also pap]-cutt]s1 seals1 & s on4 ,he always display$ good ta/e & a f9e s5se ( =m1 hav+1 l ,olbri*1 ! capacity to c>ry out 8 designs q indep5d5tly1 )\t consid]ation ( 8 pr$ecessors' effects4 ,a hair-p9 ( ,gross's may be reg>d$ z q an indep5d5t "w1 al?\gh x relies on an old tradition4 ,^? arti/s1 inde$1 %[ ! mo/ fre$om :o h adapt$ ! beautiful examples ( pa/ g5]ations4 ,exam9+ our new jewell]y1 we f9d v little "w :i* has ! appe>ance ( hav+ be5 done by a /rong h&4 ,mo/ ( x 9 "t becomes unbe>ably monoton\s4 ,/ill1 x is some?+ t we 9 ,g]many h at lea/ two arti/s :o design 9 s fre% & *>act]i/ic a mann] t _! works are always look$ at ) ! greate/ int]e/4 ,i already h m5tion$ !m--,olbri* & ,van d] ,velde--& ,i fall back aga9 ^u !m1 ?\gh ,i h already tak5 !m 9 consid]ation4 ,we h o!r arti/s1 too1 :o foll[ s\nd pr9ciples 9 o!r bran*es ( decorative art4 ,"o ( ! mo/ individual ( ^! is ,riem]s*mid1 ( ,muni*4 ,o!rs !re are :o are ne>ly on ! "r way1 b ^: p]sonal arti/ic s5se is n broad en\gh to make !m produce some?+ really good4 ,?is g5]al m5tion is1 !re=e1 all _! "w dem&s4 ,9 addition to f+] & e>r+s our jewell]y arti/s are responsible = o!r objects1 su* z ! bracelet1 ! wat*1 & ! fan4 ,i ?9k x is v difficult to rescue ! bracelet f conv5tionality4 ,we mu/ hope ! be/ = ! future4 ,b :at ab\t wat*-cases1 especially ^? ( ladies' wat*es8 ,?is art is q neglect$1 n s mu* by ! manufactur]s z by ! arti/s4 ,at ?is ye>'s ,d>m/adt ,exhibition !re 7 two wat*es display$4 ,"o ( !m _h ! case enamell$1 if ,i mi/ake n1 9 ! =m ( a *rysan!mum1 & on ! o!r 0 modell$ ! figure ( "o ( ! ,fates4 ,! effect ( ! *rysan!mum wat* 0 fairly good1 b ! less said ab\t ! ,fate ! bett]4 ,:y is x n possible to design an ornam5t ) ta/e & furni% x ) preci\s /ones & enamel8 ,x is ! greate/ pity t our sculptors h no imag9ation4 ,hav+ arriv$ at ! det]m9ation to ?9k ( a wat*1 ! arti/ has no idea beyond depict+ "o ( ! ,fates ) ! ?read & ! scissors4 ,i said j n[ t ! wat* 0 neglect$ less by ! manufactur]s ?an by ! arti/s4 ,n[adays y may f9d wat*es inde$ ) gaily-col\r$ cases1 b ! decorations are mis]able1 l ev]y?+ else t is inv5t$ by ! manufactur]s4 ,!y don't want to pay a good price = ! arti/'s sket*1 & !y are pr\d ( ! inspiration ( _! own ,muse4 ,9 ?is case "o _c avoid ! conclusion t ! arti/s are !mselves to blame = _! neglect ( ?is bran* ( ! jewell]'s art4 ,,! condition ( affairs ) reg>d to ! fan is also v a/oni%+4 ,:y d our arti/s n supply our ladies ) nice fans8 ,please d n conf\nd nice ) preci\s4 ,! fan z we "k x n[ is s utt]ly play$ out t sc>cely any?+ c be done ) x4 ,new arrangem5ts ( ! fea!rs are inv5t$2 ! h&le is trimm$ 9 diff]5t ways2 new mat]ials are us$1 b a really new & arti/ic idea _c be devis$4 ,titian's ,lady ) ! ,fan is admir$2 ! fan is kn[n v well1 b nobody ?9ks ( mak+ use ( x4 ,mean:ile ano!r k9d ( fan is be+ m & m ext5sively employ$4 ,i ref] to ! palm-leaf ( ! ,japanese & ! ,*9ese4 ,p are v fond ( be+ fann$ by ^! leaves1 b nobody obs]ves _! arti/ic possibilities4 ,an arti/ :o c af=d to be indep5d5t ( m]e fa%ion is !re=e want$ to give new life to ! fan4 ,su* an arti/ w w9 la/+ success4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,coll> ,ornam5t 9 ,gold1 ,enamel1 ,onyx1 & ,brilliants ,b4 ,coll> ,ornam5t 9 ,gold1 ,enamel1 & ,brilliants ,,rob]t ,,ko* ,,plate #a ,illu/ration3 ,gold ,p5dant1 set ) ,lapis ,lazuli1 ,pe>ls1 & ,rubies ,design$ by ,,joseph ,m4 ,,olbri* ,silv] ,p5dant1 set ) ,blood/ones & a l>ge ,pe>l ,execut$ by ,d4 ,m4 ,,loew5?al ,,plate #b ,illu/ration3 ,p5dant 9 ,gold1 ,silv]1 ,enamel1 & ,pe>l ,execut$ by ,,!odor ,,fahrn] ,gold ,p5dant set ) ,ame?y/s & ,pe>ls ,execut$ by ,d4 ,m4 ,,loew5?al ,bo? design$ by ,j4 ,m4 ,,olbri* ,,plate #c ,illu/ration3 ,gold ,broo*es ,design$ by ,,h]mann ,r4 ,c4 ,,hirzel ,execut$ by ,,l\is ,,w]n] ,,plate #d ,illu/ration3 ,gold ,broo*es ,design$ by ,,!odor ,,von ,,gos5 ,execut$ by ,,v]e9igte ,,w]k/aett51 ,,muni* ,,plate #e ,illu/ration3 ,gold ,broo*es ,design$ by ,,bruno ,m,,hr+ ,execut$ by ,f4 ,h4 ,,w]n] ,,plate #f ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,,fig4 ,c ,a & ,c4 ,gold ,p5dants set ) a ,turquoise ,b4 ,gold ,p5dant set ) ,turquoises & ,moss-,agates ,,*r4 ,,f]d9& ,,morawe ,,plate #g ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,silv] ,broo* set ) ,turquoise & ,enamel ,execut$ by ,,!odor ,,fahrn] ,b4 ,gold ,p5dant set ) ,pe>ls & ,sapphires ,execut$ by ,d4 ,m4 ,,loew5?al ,bo? design$ by ,,joseph ,m4 ,,olbri* ,,plate #h ,,mod]n ,,belgian ,,jewell]y ,,& ,,fans4 ,by ,f4 ,,khnopff4 ,illu/ration ,rec5t ,salons 9 ,belgium h be5 notori\sly unsuccessful1 & x _c be disput$ t ! public is becom+ less & less int]e/$ 9 ! l>ge exhibitions ( ,f9e ,arts4 ,notable arti/s h be5 conspicu\sly abs5t2 new works h be5 z sc>ce z old ones h be5 abundant2 &1 la/ly1 ! g5]al arrangem5ts h be5 altoge!r lack+ 9 attractiv5ess4 ,despite ! viol5t opposition ( int]e/$ p]sons1 (ficial & o!rwise1 ! type ( display />t$ "s "t ago 9 ,brussels by ! ,,xx club1 & cont9u$ by ! ,libre ,e/htique & ,p\r ,l',art societies1 has succe$$ 9 attract+ ! att5tion ( connoisseurs & art lov]s g5]ally1 )1 app>5tly1 e prospect ( reta9+ x4 ,! comb9ation ( works ( pa9t+ & sculpture ) ! mo/ exquisite productions ( c]amic art1 glass-w>e1 & all t is mo/ delicate 9 jewell]y & goldsmi?'s "w1 adds a special attraction to ^! exhibitions1 :i* are always look$ = ) ! utmo/ int]e/4 ,x is1 inde$1 ! jewell]s1 :o1 among all our ,belgian art work]s1 h succe$$ 9 mak+ !mselves & _! productions ! be/ kn[n & mo/ widely appreciat$2 ! m s z 9 _! case "o 0 able to comp>e _! works closely & det]m9e _! relative m]its4 ,x may truly be said t _! mo/ notable *>act]i/ic is div]sity--a div]sity :i* is %[n1 n only by ! amateurs1 s to speak1 b also among ! pr(essionals4 ,no rem>ks on ,belgian sculpture--p>ticul>ly 9 its decorative s5se--are complete )\t m5tion be+ made ( ,*>les ,van d] ,/app54 ,true1 he has execut$ b a small numb] ( deta*$ ornam5ts1 b 9 ! arrangem5t ( ! hair 9 8 exquisitely fanciful bu/s he has lavi%$ a weal? ( f9e modell+1 ! influ5ce ( :i* is /ill widely felt4 ,9 ! works ( ,m4 ,paul ,dubois we discov] ! sculptor modell+ ! details ( 8 buckles & clasps z he w\ld s _m p[]ful muscles4 ,m4 ,f]n& ,dubois seems to be a *]*eur ( a m subtle k9d2 b ?is v excess ( +5uity sometimes m>s ! pla/ic effect ( 8 jewels4 ,f ,victor ,r\sseau we h _h s f> no?+ m ?an a gold bracelet4 ,! subject is q simple--two h&s hold+ a pe>l2 b ! "w is 9 e way wor?y ( ! "y ,brussels arti/1 :om ,i reg>d z "o ( ! mo/ rem>kable p]sonalities 9 ! doma9 ( contempor>y ,belgian sculpture4 ,! decorator ,van de ,velde1 :o has left ,brussels1 & is n[ settl$ 9 ,b]l91 exhibit$ at "s ( ! ,libre ,e/htique salons a s]ies ( jewels rem>kable = _! firm & consi/5t con/ruction4 ,! jewels display$ rec5tly by ,m4 ,feys are di/+ui%$ by grace & felicit\s appropriat5ess2 b ev5 m /rik+ is ! p]fection ( _! execution1 :i* is really extraord9>y 9 its sugge/ion ( suppl5ess4 ,o!r jewels display$ rec5tly at ! ,libre ,e/htique by ,m4 ,morr5 & ,mlle4 de ,bronckre also des]ve notice4 ,9 ! c\rse ( a v int]e/+ /udy on ,m4 ,ph4 ,wolf]s1 ,m4 ,s&] ,pirron1 ! sagaci\s ,brussels critic1 ?us describ$ ! "w ( ?is rem>kable speciali/ 9 ! ,revue des ,arts ,dcoratifs3-- ,m4 ,wolf]s seeks 8 inspiration 9 ! /udy ( ! nature & ! =ms ( 8 m>vell\s doma91 & 8 vision ( ?+s is specially def9$ 9 8 jewels4 ,! detail !re9 contributes l>gely to ! _s ( ! entire "w1 :i* borr[s its "* f ! decoration itself or f ! subject ( t decoration4 ,he nev] all[s himself to /ray into ! regions ( fancy2 at mo/1 he p]mits 8 imag9ation to approa* ! conf9es ( ornam5tal ab/raction4 ,nev]!less1 he int]prets ,nature1 b is nev] dom9at$ by x4 ,he has too true1 too exact a s5se ( ! decorative pr9ciple to con=m to ! absolute reality ( ! ?+s he admires & reproduces4 ,8 art1 by virtue ( ?is rule1 is ?us a modifi$ translation ( real =ms4 ,he has too mu* ta/e to introduce into ! composition ( "o & ! same jewel fl[]s or animals :i* h no p>allel symbol or1 at lea/1 "s family lik5ess or significance4 ,he w associate swans ) wat]-lilies--! fl[]s :i* frame1 z x 71 ! life ( ^? gr& poetic birds2 or he w put ! owl or ! bat ) ! poppy--t triple evocation ( ,night & ,my/]y2 or ! h]on ) ! eel--symbols ( di/ant1 melan*oly /reams4 ,he rightly judges t 9 art "o mu/ endeav\r to reconcile ev]y?+1 bo? ! idea & ! mat]ials :]eby "o tries to make t idea live & speak4 ,inspir$1 d\btless1 by ! fact t ! anci5ts *ose black /ones = ! c>v+ ( ! inf]nal or fatal deities1 ,m4 ,wolf]s uses a d>k ame?y/ = 8 owls1 :i* gives !m a special significance4 ,! ,grecians us$ ! aqua-m>9a exclusively = ! engrav+ ( _! m>9e gods1 by reason ( its simil>ity to ! col\r ( ! sea1 j z !y nev] c>v$ ! features ( ,bac*us 9 any?+ b ame?y/--t /one ^: ess5ce sugge/s ! purple fl[ ( w9e4 ,m4 van ,/rydonck expresses himself to me 9 ! foll[+ t]ms on ! subject ( 8 art3-- ,i am ( op9ion t ! jewel c be produc$ )\t ! aid ( /ones1 enamels1 etc4 ,i d n exclude !m entirely1 b !y %\ld n be us$ unless x be to give ! f9i%+ t\*1 or occasionally to relieve an ensemble lack+ 9 vig\r ( col\r4 ,my pref]5ce is = oxydations1 = 9 g5]al effect !y are m h>moni\s to ! eye1 & by c>eful seek+ "o c f9d all ! tones requir$4 ,i ?9k y w %>e my op9ion t x is mu* easi] to use enamels1 by means ( :i* "o's object is in/antly atta9$4 ,yet x is seldom "o produces a beautiful symphony ( col\r4 ,enamel c only be employ$ 9 small quantities4 ,:y8 ,because1 9 ! fir/ place1 he :o uses x mu/ h a pr(\nd k ( col\rs & a special col\ri/'s eye2 he mu/ rememb]1 moreov]1 t he is appeal+ to a cli5tle compos$ pr9cipally ( ladies1 :o 9 mo/ cases reg>d ! jewel simply z a means to complete su* & su* a toilette4 ,x seems to me1 inde$1 cont9ues ,m4 van ,/rydonck1 t transluc5t enamel is ! mo/ suitable because x simply s]ves z an auxili>y--a basis necess>y to ! completion ( ! ensemble--& adds value to workman%ip & design2 & !re is no?+ to prev5t its alliance ) ! beautiful oxydations :i* come almo/ naturally f gold4 ,note h[1 little by little1 enamel is be+ ab&on$ 9 fav\r ( /ones1 su* z onyx1 agate1 & mala*ite1 mat]ials ( no special value1 :i* c be cut 9 diff]5t ways1 & ^: col\r gives f9e effects inf9itely pref]able to ^? ( inf]ior enamels4 ,( c\rse1 ,i d n despise ! f9e /one1 :i*1 by its bold col\r1 (t5 relieves ! "w1 b ?is is n altoge!r ! object ( ! jewel1 unless pr(it be ! sole object ( ! mak]2 & ,i ought to add t ! revival ( ! jewel 9 rec5t ye>s has n be5 fav\rably reg>d$ by c]ta9 firms1 :o saw !re9 a di/9ct dim9ution ( ga91 ! fact be+ t _! l>ge /ock ( f9e /ones--beautiful 9 !mselves1 b out ( place 9 works su* z ,i h m5tion$--?reat5s to rema9 on _! h&s4 ,"o _c truly say t ,belgian ev5tailli/es exi/1 = x is only v occasionally t su* wat]-col\r pa9t]s z ,,mm4 ,cassi]s1 ,/acquet1 & ,uytt]s*aut c>ry out _! delightful l&scapes & seascapes 9 ! %ape requir$ = a fan4 ,some?+ has be5 done 9 lacework 9 connection ) ! fan1 & on ?is po9t ,i %\ld m5tion 9 t]ms ( praise ,m4 ,van ,cutsem1 a ,brussels design]1 :o has made num]\s models = ,m4 ,b>t & ,m4 ,sacr1 among/ :i* may be not$ sev]al happy exp]im5ts 9 ! direction ( ! mod]n /yle4 ,to conclude1 let me ref] to ! lace by ,mlle4 ,bi5aim1 admirably m\nt$ by ,m4 ,goos5s1 ( ,brussels4 7,belgian7 ,a ,,fan ,,pa9t$ ,,on ,,silk ,,by ,h4 ,,cassi]s4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #a ,illu/ration3 ,design = a ,necklet 9 ,silv] & ,enamel ,l4 ,,van ,,/rydonck ,,plate #b ,illu/ration3 ,p5dant ) ,*a94 ,! masque is an ,iris ) r$ ,enamel = ! hair4 ,! ,or*id's petals are 9 transluc5t ,enamel ( opalesc5t tones ,,ph4 ,,wolf]s ,,plate #c ,illu/ration3 ,p5dant & ,*a9 set ) ,brilliants & ,pe>ls4 ,! ,figure 9 ,gold1 ! ,s]p5t 9 black & br[n ,enamel ,,ph4 ,,wolf]s ,,plate #d ,illu/ration3 ,necklet1 ) ,ornam5ts ( transp>5t ,enamel ,,ph4 ,,wolf]s ,,plate #e ,illu/ration3 ,p>ure de ,corsage1 set ) ,em]alds1 ,brilliants & transp>5t ,pe>ls ,,ph4 ,,wolf]s ,,plate #f ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,wai/-b& ,buckle4 ,! ,s]p5t 9 gre5 ,bronze1 ! ,crab 9 ,silv]-gilt ,b4 ,p5dant4 ,! ,pheasants 9 gre5 & yell[-br[n ,enamel1 ! c5tre ,/one a pale-gre5 ,ceylon ,sapphire ,,ph4 ,,wolf]s ,,plate #g ,illu/ration3 ,coiffure1 set ) ,brilliants2 ! petals 9 ,opal1 ! ,s]p5t 9 ,gold t\*$ ) a slight pat9a ,,ph4 ,,wolf]s ,,plate #h ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,,fig4 ,c ,,fig4 ,d ,a1 ,b1 & ,d4 ,silv] ,belt-,clasps ,c4 ,silv] ,buckles ,,paul ,,dubois ,,plate #i ,,mod]n ,,dani% ,,jewell]y4 ,,by ,,georg ,,bro*n]4 ,illu/ration ,emanat+ f ,engl&--&1 ,i am tempt$ to add1 ) ,,! ,,/udio = its pione]--! new movem5t1 ! rejuv5ation1 ! second ,r5aissance1 or :atev] "o may be pleas$ to call x1 9 matt]s ( ,f9e1 & m especially ,appli$ ,art1 is l a mighty wave mak+ its way ov] _m l&s4 ,b1 z ) ! waves ( ! ocean1 its movem5ts are (t5 fitful & impulsive1 its progress irregul> & spasmodic4 ,:y ?is is s x is (t5 futile to speculate ^u1 & ev5 :]e a plausible explanation is app>5tly ne> at h&1 x may on clos] inve/igation prove m or less ( a fallacy4 ,?us x may appe> natural en\gh t a small c\ntry %\ld be unable to vie ) l>ge & ri* empires 9 ! matt] ( jewell]y1 = ! mak+ ( su* is likely to entail exp5diture out ( proportion to ! buy+ capacity ( small] nations4 ,yet ?is argum5t really does n hold good1 = inasmu* z 9 mod]n jewell]y x is m ! design & conception1 m ! intr9sic arti/ic value & ! prop] *oice & h&l+ ( ! mat]ial :i* are ! ma9 ?+s 7& n ! quantity ( preci\s /ones us$71 ! co/ ne$ by no means be excessive4 ,= day we>1 at lea/1 delightful jewell]y is n[ made entirely f gold & silv]1 & enamel1 & ev5 bronze1 possess+ decorative prop]ties immeasurably beyond ^? ( ! f> m co/ly articles produc$ up to only a few ye>s ago4 ,be ?is z x may1 ! fructify+ effects ( ^! new ideas h1 on ! :ole1 be5 some:at sl[ 9 mak+ !mselves felt )9 ! craft ( ! gold & ! silv]-smi?1 or1 r1 )9 t bran* ( x :i* embraces articles = p]sonal adornm5t4 ,"s c\ntries h s f> ignor$ !m altoge!r2 9 o!rs !y are only j beg9n+ to take root4 ,9 ,d5m>k1 = in/ance1 :i* 9 o!r fields ( appli$ art holds su* an hon\rably prom95t position1 comp>atively little att5tion has hi!rto be5 giv5 to jewell]y by ^? di/+ui%$ arti/s :o h = ye>s br\ght _! tal5t to be> ^u o!r crafts4 ,b1 if ,i mi/ake n1 a *ange is beg9n+ to manife/ itself 9 ?is respect1 & ,i h v little d\bt t ! mat]ial = an article on mod]n ,dani% jewell]y w be va/ly augm5t$ )9 a span ( b a few ye>s1 al?\gh x is un=tunately a little scanty at ! "t ( writ+4 ,b9desbll1 ^: *>act]i/ic /yle is s easily recognis$1 has "s good clasps & broo*es to 8 cr$it4 ,!y are di/+ui%$ by t unconv5tional boldness & fre$om :i* "o always hails ) unmix$ pleasure :]ev] "o f9ds !m1 :e!r x be on a book-cov]1 on a s(a cu%ion1 on a metal vessel1 or 9 "s ar*itectural decoration4 ,x is only v r>ely ,b9desbll deigns to employ a di/9ct figure or motif 9 8 designs1 b1 9 spite ( a caprici\sness 9 8 l9es--a caprici\sness :i* at times bord]s ^u recklessness--! effect is almo/ inv>iably h>moni\s & decorative4 ,( a totally diff]5t /amp is ,h>ald ,slott-,mll]1 to :om is due ! place ( hon\r :5 deal+ ) mod]n ,dani% jewell]y4 ,8 designs are c>efully conceiv$ & !y almo/ inv>iably illu/rate a f9e poetic idea or allegory1 always happily *os54 ,!y are some:at elaborate1 bo? 9 details & draw+1 & 9 ! *oice ( mat]ial1 ) reg>d to :i* he is r extravagant ?an o!rwise4 ,8 jewell]y is possess$ ( a di/+ui%$ decorative beauty1 & al?\gh he is entirely orig9al1 bo? 9 8 *oice ( motifs & 9 8 way ( deal+ ) !m1 x might p]haps n be v difficult to trace c]ta9 ,engli% influ5ces 9 8 "w4 ,he is himself a skilful craftsman1 :il/ "s ( 8 designs h be5 execut$ at ! fam\s e/abli%m5t ( ,mr4 ,mi*els51 ,dani% ,c\rt jewell]4 ,= "o ( ,mr4 ,mi*els5's daught]s1 ,slott-,mll] design$ ! exce$+ly beautiful broo* ( :i* we give an illu/ration 7,plate #d74 ,x is made ( silv]1 :i* is /rongly oxidis$1 ) blue1 :ite1 & gre5 enamel4 ,! />s are set 9 diamonds1 & ! p5dants at ! side are pe>ls4 ,! comb ) ! butt]flies on ! lyre is ! prop]ty ( ano!r si/]1 & is made ( tortoise-%ell & gold1 ) enamel1 set ) pe>ls1 diamonds1 & sapphires4 ,a second comb1 likewise made ( tortoise-%ell1 has = its decorative motif a m]maid1 gold1 enamel1 & coral be+ us$ ) no mean skill4 ,9 ! necklace ! my? ( ,hel5 is repres5t$4 ,! c5tral portion is ( d>k oxidis$ silv]1 ) flames & sp>ks 9 gold1 ! walls ( burn+ ,troy & ! grass are enamel1 & ! figure ( ,hel5 is c>v$ 9 ivory4 ,on ! side plates m5 fight & die1 illu/rat+ ! inscription1 9 ,greek3 ,%e br\ght deva/ation1 %e gave fame4 ,slott-,mll] has himself made ! :ole ( ?is elaborate & *>m+ necklace4 ,! h&-mirror is made 9 silv]1 ) an ivory h&le1 9 ! lik5ess ( a c&le1 r\nd ! flame ( :i* a numb] ( luckless mo?s flutt]2 ! mo?s & ! ooze f ! c&le are oxidis$4 ,moy5s ,boll91 :o has lately gone 9 = ! mak+ ( arti/ic metal objects1 has also design$ sev]al pretty combs1 clasps1 etc41 made 9 silv] or bronze4 ,9 ! =m] mat]ial is a clasp1 ( :i* we give an illu/ration1 ) fl[]s 9 blossom & bud1 admirably drawn s z to fill _! allott$ space4 ,ano!r clasp1 a butt]fly1 is 9 bronze4 ,erick ,magnuss5 is a v "y arti/1 :o seems to give promise4 ,! #aija 9 ! p5dant mirror is v deftly drawn1 cov]+ its space ev5ly & well1 z does also ! design ( ! ,fi% clasp illu/rat$4 ,! o!r1 ) ! m]maids1 %[s t he c also successfully employ ! female =m = decorative purposes4 ,a silv] clasp & broo* by ,niels ,dyrlund are di/+ui%$ by a qua9t b well balanc$ int]tw9+ ( l9es1 ! effect produc$ be+ pleas+ & decorative1 & ,e9> ,niels51 ! tal5t$ pa9t]1 ,axel ,h\1 & ,georg ,j5s5 h also rec5tly tak5 to ! design+ ( clasps & su* l objects4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,necklace repres5t+ ! /ory ( ,hel5 ( ,troy4 ,! c5tral "p 9 d>k oxidis$ ,silv]1 ) flames & sp>ks 9 ,gold2 ! walls ( burn+ ,troy & ! grass 9 ,enamel2 ! figure ( ,hel5 is c>v$ 9 ,ivory ,,h>ald ,,slott-,m,,ll] ,,plate #a ,illu/ration3 ,a4 ,belt-,mirror 9 *as$ ,silv] ,,erick ,,magnuss5 ,b4 ,silv] ,h&-,mirror ) an ,ivory h&le4 ,! mo?s are oxidis$ ,,h>ald ,,slott-,m,,ll] ,,plate #b ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,butt]fly ,comb 9 ,tortoise%ell & ,gold1 ) ,enamel1 & set ) ,pe>ls1 ,diamonds1 & ,sapphires ,b4 ,m]maid ,comb 9 ,tortoise%ell & ,gold1 ) ,coral & ,enamel ,,h>ald ,,slott-,m,,ll] ,,plate #c ,illu/ration3 ,enamell$ ,broo*es 9 oxidis$ ,silv] ,,h>ald ,,slott-,m,,ll] ,,plate #d ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,silv] ,clasp ,b4 ,enamell$ ,silv] ,clasp ,,erick ,,magnuss5 ,,plate #e ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,tw(old ,silv] ,clasp ,,moy5s ,,boll9 ,b4 ,silv] ,belt-,clasp ,,erick ,,magnuss5 ,,plate #f ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,butt]fly ,clasp 9 ,bronze ,b4 ,silv] ,clasp ,,moy5s ,,boll9 ,,plate #g ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a ,,fig4 ,b ,a4 ,silv] ,clasp 9 ?ree pieces ,,moy5s ,,boll9 ,b4 ,silv] ,buckles & ,broo*es ,,?4 ,,b9desb,,ll ,,plate #h 99 99 99 99 99 ---------------------------------------- ------------------ ,transcrib]'s notes3 ,p4#a4 'unbiass$' *ang$ to 'unbias$'4 ,p4#d47;,fr5*7 no devil-fi%1 'no' *ang$ to 'nor'4 ,p4#g4 '!melves' *ang$ to '!mselves'4 ,plate #dc4 ',p5d5t' *ang$ to ',p5dant'4 ,correct$ v>i\s punctuation4 '' ar\nd words mean bold z 9 ,fr5*4 '' ar\nd words mean italic z 9 ,fr5*4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------