,the ,little ,girl's ,sewing ,book ,,the ,,little ,,girl',s ,,sewing ,,book ,,edited ,,by ,,flora ,,klickmann ,illustration ,new ,york3 ,frederick ,a4 ,stokes ,company1 ,publishers4 ,illustration ,a ,word to the ,grown-ups4 ,this book contains lessons in practically all the stitches used in plain needlework1 as well as the more useful of the fancy stitches4 ,each article described and illustrated will be found to contain instructions for some definite branch of sewing2 and though all the stitches required in making the article will not necessarily be illustrated in that chapter1 they will appear in other chapters1 and can easily be referred to1 by aid of the comprehensive index4 ,illustration ,things you can make for ,yourself4 ,a ,handy ,work ,apron4 ,if you are going to set to work to make some of the pretty articles described in this little book1 the little work apron shown in the picture on this page is just the very thing you will need to put on while you are sewing4 ,it has two deep pockets and two small ones1 and you will be able to put the silks and cottons necessary1 for whatever it is you are making1 into these1 so that they will be ready as you want to use them4 ,illustration3 ,,this ,,has ,,four ,,pockets ,you will find it is so handy1 too1 to have a pocket to slip your scissors into after cutting your thread4 ,you know what a nasty way they have of slipping off your lap on to the floor4 ,and then1 when you pick them up1 it is quite likely that you get a little dust on your hands1 and this gets on to your pretty work and makes it look soiled4 ,then1 when your sewing time is ended for the day1 how convenient it is to be able to fold your work away in your little work apron1 so that it is kept well protected from any stray specks of dust1 and will be quite ready for you when next you want it4 ,so you see how this little apron is going to help you to keep your work nice and clean1 and ,i am sure you will want to make yourself one as quickly as ever you can1 so let us see how it is done4 ,you will only need #a yard of material to make the apron1 and this can be white or coloured as you prefer4 ,a soft linen or sateen would make up well4 ,for the featherstitching use coloured 8,star ,sylko0 thread1 as this will wash without the colour running4 ,to cut out the apron1 first measure off #d inches of the material1 and cut across from selvedge to selvedge2 this will form the band4 ,the piece used for the apron itself is #cb inches long and #bj inches wide1 and when you have cut this you will have a strip left for making the small pockets1 which should each be #f inches square4 ,to make the points at the bottom of the pockets1 fold each square right down the centre1 measure #a inches up the double cut edges1 and cut off the corners on the cross to the edge of the centre fold4 ,illustration3 ,,gathering1 ,,stroking1 ,,and ,,putting ,,into ,a ,,band4 ,now take the piece you have cut for the apron1 and turn a quarter-inch hem along both the sides and one of the ends of this strip1 tack these along carefully1 and hem neatly4 ,we give directions for tacking and hemming on page #ah4 ,to form the large double pocket1 fold the hemmed end of the strip up #aa inches1 and oversew the edges of the side hems together4 ,directions for oversewing are given on page #bh4 ,now place a tacking line right down the centre of the pocket ,the small patch pockets should then be added4 ,turn a quarter-inch hem along the top of each of these1 and a single narrow turning round the other edges4 ,hem one of these on to each side of the large pocket1 placing them about #c inches down from the top of the large pocket1 and #c inches in from the side edges of the apron4 ,illustration3 ,,how ,,the ,,feather-,,stitching ,,is ,,done4 ,now take the band strip1 tack a single turning round all edges and fold right along the centre4 ,gather the top of the apron1 draw the gathers up tightly 7winding the thread round a pin so that it will be ready when you want to let them out again71 and carefully stroke down each gathered stitch with your needle to make them set nicely4 ,now let out the gathers until the apron is #ac inches wide1 place the gathered edge between the folded band1 taking care that you get the centre of the band and the centre of the apron together1 and hem along each side of the work4 ,you will see that you have a little picture showing you exactly how this should be done4 ,the open edges of the ends of the band should be oversewn together4 ,when you have finished sewing on your band you will need to put a button on one end and to make a buttonhole in the other end4 ,if you are not quite sure how to make a buttonhole nicely you had better look carefully at the illustrations showing how to do this4 ,first fold the end of the band1 and cut your buttonhole through the fold and exactly in a line with a thread of the material2 the buttonhole should be cut just large enough for you to put your button through easily4 ,before you commence to work the buttonholes make a line of running or 8barring0 stitches quite close to the edges1 to hold them evenly together1 as shown in the first part of the little diagram2 the second part of the diagram shows another way of holding the edges together by working overcasting stitches over the hole1 but this way is more often used when working on thicker materials4 ,the third part of the diagram shows a finished buttonhole1 and you will see that one end is worked round and the other square2 the outside should be the round one1 and the inner end the square one4 ,illustration3 ,,the 8,,barring0 ,,overcasting1 ,,and ,,the ,,finished ,,buttonhole4 ,now you are ready to commence to work the buttonhole4 ,thread a sewing needle with white cotton 7say ,no4 #dj71 make a knot1 and just to fasten your thread to your work put your needle in on the wrong side just below the running stitches1 at the inner end of the buttonhole1 picking up one thickness of material only1 and bring it out on the right side of your work between the edges of the buttonhole4 ,illustration3 ,,making ,a ,,buttonhole4 ,buttonholes are always worked on the right side of the work1 and are worked from left to right4 ,to make the first stitch 7after fastening your cotton on as above71 place the needle downwards through the buttonhole1 and put it in just where you put it at first1 only this time right through both thicknesses of material4 ,when you have your needle in this position1 place your cotton round it exactly as the little illustration shows it placed1 pull your needle out1 and you will find that you have made a knotted stitch1 which must be pulled up so that the knot comes right at the edge of the buttonhole2 this completes one stitch1 and you must work a row of these stitches right along1 making the ends of the stitches even to a thread4 ,the round end is made in the same way that you do oversewing1 and each stitch must be made the same length as the buttonhole stitches1 and taken round to form a half-circle at the end of the hole2 the lower part of the little illustration shows how the needle is placed for this4 ,work the second side in the same way as the first1 then for the square end take a couple of ordinary back stitches right over the entire width of the worked buttonhole 7from the lower edge of the stitches on one side to the lower edge of the stitches on the other71 and work a row of buttonhole stitches across the end of the buttonhole1 bringing the knots just over the bar of stitches you have just made across4 ,this completes your buttonhole4 ,all that now remains to be done is the feather-stitching1 and for the little girl who has not attempted this stitch before1 we are giving an illustration showing exactly how it should be made4 ,this is worked from right to left4 ,if you look carefully at the illustration you will see that the thread is always brought round to the front of the needle before making a stitch1 and for the upper part a small stitch is taken downwards towards you1 and for the lower part a stitch of the same length is taken turning upwards towards you4 ,the feather-stitching should be worked just over the hemming line1 and this will serve as a guide for keeping it straight2 the bottom of the top stitch should come just above the hemming line1 and the top of the lower stitch just below it4 ,the illustration clearly shows where the feather-stitching should be added4 ,you run and hem from right to left1 ,you buttonhole from left to right2 ,your needle should be rather fine1 ,and never pull the thread too tight4 ,for ,ribbons and ,bows4 ,isn't it just too tiresome when you want a particular bow to wear with a blouse1 or a little lace collar that is just the right shape1 and you look in vain through the drawer where you keep knick-knacks of this description4 ,then you know how the drawer gets all tumbled over1 and you have finally to seize a bow that isn't a bit the one you wanted1 and rush off1 to save being late for school4 ,have you ever been in a fix like that8 ,if you have1 you know all about it1 and it is all the more annoying when you know all the time that the bow is there somewhere4 ,now what is really the trouble here8 ,why the fact of the matter is the drawer is too big1 and the little bow loses itself among the other things in the drawer4 ,illustration3 ,this is how the ,box looks when it is closed4 ,now what you want is a little compartment where you can keep your bows or collars 7as the case may be7 all to themselves4 ,a cardboard box inside the drawer won't last any time4 ,no2 the better plan is to make yourself a really pretty box1 that can stand on your dressing-table4 ,you see the sweet one illustrated1 don't you8 ,well1 it will be a very simple matter for you to make one in the same way4 ,the outside of this one is covered with a pretty flowered cretonne1 of which pink and green are the principal colours1 and it is lined with biscuit-coloured sateen4 ,but you would1 of course1 make your box in the colours that will go best with your little bedroom4 ,a flowered material is probably nicest for the outside1 though plain material could be used4 ,in any case1 a deep cream is the best colour for the inside of the box4 ,to make a box the same size as the one here shown1 you will want four pieces of thin cardboard #f inches long by #e inches wide for the lid and bottom1 four pieces #f inches by #c inches for the sides1 and four pieces #e inches by #c inches for the ends4 ,then you will want two pieces of cream sateen #g inches by #f inches1 and two pieces of flowered cretonne the same size1 two pieces of cream sateen and two pieces of cretonne #g inches by #d inches1 and two pieces each of sateen and cretonne #f inches by #d inches4 ,the first step is to cover the cardboard pieces4 ,this must be done very neatly4 ,you will notice that the pieces of material are an inch larger each way than the cardboard they are to cover4 ,when you lay a piece of cardboard on a piece of material there should be -inch of material all round1 outside the cardboard1 for turning over4 ,crease it over the edges of the cardboard all round1 turning it in under again at the corners1 as you see in the little picture4 ,start by taking a few stitches at the first corner1 carry your needle on to the next corner1 and again take a few firm stitches4 ,when you have done all the corners1 take a few long stitches from side to side1 as you see in the illustration1 to keep it secure4 ,illustration3 ,,covering ,a ,,section ,,of ,,cardboard ,,with ,,material4 ,you must now sew the covered pieces together4 ,take a cretonne-covered piece1 place it against a sateen-covered piece of the same size1 having the turned-in sides together1 and oversew neatly all round4 ,do this with all the pieces4 ,now you have six neat little sections1 each of which is cream one side and coloured on the other4 ,your next task is to oversew five of these sections together to make a box4 ,first sew the two side and two end pieces together1 and then sew the bottom piece to all four1 taking care that all the cream sides are inside and the coloured sides outside4 ,before you sew the lid on1 sew cord round all the edges with neat stitches1 as you see in the picture4 ,green cord was used for this box1 but you could use whatever colour goes best with your cretonne4 ,sew cord also round the edge of the lid4 ,all that now remains to be done is to fasten the lid to the box4 ,this is done by oversewing on the inside the cord on one side of the box to that on the lid4 ,you have now got not only a useful receptacle for your bows1 etc41 but a very pretty addition to your dressing-table4 ,the size given is a very useful one1 but you are not bound to make it this size if any other would suit your purpose better4 ,for instance1 if it is to hold handkerchiefs1 a box that is square would be a better shape4 ,but whatever size you decide on1 see that each piece is cut and joined evenly1 as this is most essential if the box is to be really a success4 ,such an ,advantage6 ,my scissors used to run away2 ,my cotton lost itself2 ,my needlebook would never stay ,upon the mantel-shelf2 ,my thimble always would forget ,to be where ,i could find it2 ,my button-box was quite upset ,if no one stayed to mind it4 ,but now a work-bag ,i have made1 ,i'm saved no end of worry2 ,i find my cotton1 tape and braid ,without the slightest flurry4 ,f4 ,k4 ,the ,lambkin ,bag4 ,this pretty bag is made just big enough to take a pair of little girl's shoes1 and would be just the very thing for you to keep at school to put your slippers in when you change them to come home2 or you might like to use it to carry your slippers in when you go out to tea4 ,do you see the two frisky lambs gambolling on the grass1 worked across the bottom of the bag8 ,don't you wish that you were like them1 and didn't have to wear shoes that are always wearing out8 ,this little bag was made of dark red sateen1 and embroidered with white 8,star ,sylko0 embroidery thread4 ,the bag should be about #g inches wide and #aj inches deep1 when finished1 and to allow for seams and a nice wide hem at the top1 you will want to cut a strip of material #h inches wide and #bd inches long4 ,illustration3 ,doesn't this make a pretty ,shoe-bag6 ,it will be best to do your embroidery before you make up the bag1 so that you can get at the work better4 ,first fold your strip of material right across the centre1 put a tacking line on this fold1 and work your lambs just above this4 ,if you turn to page #cj you will see how to work the cross-stitch designs1 by placing canvas over your material first1 and you have the lambs all drawn out for you in this article4 ,also you will find a whole alphabet of initials for working in cross-stitch on another page4 ,when you have finished the embroidery1 fold the strip of material in half1 with the right side inside1 and sew it together at each side with a run and back stitch1 leaving about #d inches open at each side at the top of the back4 ,when you have joined the seams1 you must oversew them along the edges on the wrong side as well1 so that they will not fray4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,from the outline designs on this page1 you will be able to count the crosses4 ,now turn down a #b-;inch hem at the top1 on both sides of the bag1 turning in the side edges of the hems2 you can tack down the sides of the hems1 so as to keep the edges in1 but don't sew them together just yet4 ,when you have hemmed the hems1 you must put a row of running stitches along each hem1 about half-an-inch above your hemming line1 to make a runner1 so that when you thread your ribbons through they will be held down at the bottom of the hem and not come right up to the top of the bag4 ,now you can oversew the ends of the hems together1 leaving the little space between the running line and the hemming line open1 so that you can thread your ribbon through4 ,this part of the work must be done with fine sewing cotton the same colour as your material1 as you do not want the stitches to show too much4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,here you see what the lambs look like worked on ,penelope ,canvas4 ,aren't they frisky6 ,if you like you can embroider an even row of white crosses over the stitches on the right side of the bag2 this makes a pretty finish4 ,you can either use red cord or a narrow red ribbon for threading through your bag1 and you will want a yard and a half4 ,cut this into two even lengths4 ,then thread a bodkin with one piece1 and starting from the left hand side of the bag1 thread it right round the bag through the runner you made at the bottom of the hems4 ,when you have got it right through1 sew the two ends of the ribbon together1 and pull it round from the right side so that the join does not show2 this will leave you with a long loop of ribbon hanging from the right side of the bag4 ,now take the other piece of ribbon and do exactly the same from the left side of the bag4 ,now when you pull the loops at each side the bag will draw up nice and evenly at the top4 ,the ,invalid4 ,i'm 'fraid ,i can't go out to-day1 ,my baby's cough is worse2 ,and if she isn't better soon ,i'll have to have a nurse1-- ,like mother did when ,i had fever2-- ,it really isn't safe to leave her6 ,this morning when ,i had my bath1 ,she tumbled head-first in1 ,and got herself just soaking wet ,right to her very skin4 ,she had her shoes and stockings on1 ,also her cream serge frock2 ,and when we found her1 nearly drowned1 ,she'd fainted with the shock6 ,i've made her lots of medicine1 ,with chocolate cream and water2 ,but she's so tiresome1 she won't try ,to take it as ,i taught her4 ,i've put her in the nice new bed ,i've been so busy making1 ,with mattresses and underlay1 ,and feather beds for shaking4 ,and hem stitched sheets all trimmed with lace1 ,and blankets edged with blue1 ,and frills around the pillow case1 ,a pink silk bedspread too6 ,i've put her newest nightie on1 ,and made her shut her eyes2 7,she does that when she lies down flat ,and goes to sleepy byes74 ,but when ,i got her medicine ,and said1 8,now dear1 sit up1 ,and take a teeny little drop ,out of your favourite cup40 ,she was a really naughty child1 ,and simply said1 she wouldn't6 ,but there--poor thing1 she's just a doll1 ,so ,i suppose she couldn't6 ,and now ,i'll have to say good-bye1 ,you'll 'scuse me writing more4 ,i think ,i hear the doctor1 ,rat-tat-tatting at the door4 ,f4 ,k4 ,the ,swallow ,nightdress ,pocket4 ,isn't it just lovely to be able to make things all by yourself1 without having to wait to be shown what to do next all the time4 ,mother is sure to be busy just when you want to know how to go on1 and not have the time to stop to arrange your work for you4 ,this pretty nightdress pocket can be made out of a long straight strip of material1 folded up like an envelope4 ,that sounds quite easy1 doesn't it1 and ,i am sure you have often folded up paper like an envelope1 haven't you8 ,you just divide it into three1 and let one end lie over the other like a flap4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,birds ,,are ,,flying ,,home ,,to ,,bed4 ,you will want about half a yard of white canvas1 or linen1 to make the pocket1 and about #a yards of ,cash's ,fancy ,frilling1 to put round the edge of the flap4 ,also you will need a ball of blue 8,brighteye40 ,now1 take a tape measure and measure your material each way4 ,you want to have a strip #cj inches long and #ae inches wide4 ,when you have cut this1 measure up #ah inches of the length1 and cut #a inches off the width of the strip at each side up as far as this1 leaving the remaining #ab inches wider1 to allow of the deep hem round the flap4 ,now turn a #a inch hem across the narrow end of your strip of material1 hem it along on what will be the inside of the pocket1 and fold this end of the strip up to form the pocket1 until the lower edge of the hem reaches where the material comes out wider at each side4 ,illustration3 ,,one ,,swallow ,,worked ,,on ,,penelope ,,canvas4 ,illustration3 ,,an ,,outline ,,swallow ,,for ,,counting ,,the ,,crosses4 ,sew up the side seams with a run and back-stitch1 then oversew the edges of the seams together1 so that you do not have any frayed edges inside your pocket4 ,the ends of the hem are not joined into the seams at each side1 but these are turned in and oversewn to make them neat4 ,this loose hem at the top of the pocket makes it easier for the nightdress to be slipped in and out4 ,now you turn in an even hem all round the flap and hemstitch it4 ,directions for hemstitching are given on page #cj4 ,you will also find out how to work cross-stitch designs over canvas on page #bf1 and you can work your birds in the same way from the diagram given4 ,you will see that your nightdress pocket would be quite complete without the frill1 but this makes a very pretty finish to it4 ,cash's ,frillings are supplied with a thread that draws up already in1 so that you will have no need to gather your frilling but just to draw it up4 ,if you measure round the flap1 and then draw your length of frilling up to this size and distribute the fulness evenly all the way along1 you can then just oversew the drawn-up edge of the frill to the edge of the hem all round on the wrong side of the flap4 ,illustration ,an ,easy-to-make ,pinafore4 ,every little girl would rather make something that is pretty and useful than something that is useful without being pretty4 ,now here is a very delightful pinafore that you can make for yourself1 that is pretty1 useful1 and also easy4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,little ,,girl ,,in ,,her ,,pinafore4 ,the little girl in the picture looks so stylish in her pinafore that you would hardly believe you could so easily make one like it4 ,but look at the picture on page #ai and you can see better what an easy little pattern it is--just a straight piece of muslin1 hemmed and tucked and pleated into a band4 ,this band comes across the chest1 the two ribbons are taken over the shoulders1 crossed at the back 7just like a nurse's apron straps71 and brought round the waist to tie in a bow in front4 ,the pinafore is made of white spotted muslin1 trimmed with a sweet little insertion and tucks1 and the ribbon used on it is pink4 ,a pinafore like this would brighten up your school frock1 and ,i am sure you are wanting to set to work to make one at once4 ,you will need a yard of spotted muslin #bd inches wide1 a yard of insertion1 and two pieces of #a-;inch pink ribbon each #a yards long4 ,now ask mother to tell you what length you require from the yoke to the bottom hem1 because you want to have your pinafore the right length4 ,the little girl in the picture is eight years old1 and she measures #bh inches from where the pleats are put into the band1 to the bottom of her pinafore4 ,then another #c inches is allowed for turning up the hem1 making #ca inches altogether4 ,now1 having cut off this length1 the sides have to be hemmed4 ,for this the edges must be folded over twice4 ,the first fold is only enough to turn in the raw edge1 the second fold should be -inch wide4 ,now tack it1 so as to keep the turnings straight1 by making a long stitch on top and a short stitch underneath4 ,illustration3 ,,putting ,,pleats ,,into ,a ,,band4 ,if you are not sure how to hem1 look at the little picture on this page4 ,put the needle in just under the fold1 slant it towards you1 and put it through the fold near the edge4 ,repeat this stitch1 taking up only a few threads of material each time4 ,having hemmed the sides1 make a deep hem at the bottom1 first turning down a little fold1 and then a deep #b inch fold4 ,tack and hem it4 ,illustration3 ,,making ,a ,,tuck4 ,for the lowest tuck1 crease the material #c inches from the bottom of the pinafore1 and tack it about -inch below the crease1 to keep the fold in place4 ,now1 we only want our little tuck to be -inch1 so just at that distance below the crease1 start running it along with tiny stitches as you learned to do for the work apron on page #d4 ,to keep the tuck the same size all the way1 you might keep testing it with a piece of paper notched in two places--the notches to be -inch apart--the width of your tuck4 ,when you have finished the tuck1 take out the tacking stitches and turn the tuck down so that the stitches come at the top and the tuck below them4 ,illustration3 ,,how ,,hemming ,,is ,,done4 ,make a second tuck above the first1 the bottom of the second to be -inch above the top of the first4 ,make a third tuck1 the bottom of which must be #b inches above the top of the second1 and a fourth1 having the bottom -inch above the top of the third4 ,in this way you have two tucks together1 then a space1 and two more tucks together4 ,on to this space between the pairs of tucks you sew the insertion4 ,cut off enough to go across the pinafore1 allowing a little more at each end to turn in4 ,tack it1 and then when you are sure that it is quite straight1 run the insertion along both edges on to the muslin1 taking an occasional back-stitch to keep it quite firm4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,finished ,,pinafore4 ,the top part of the pinafore is now put into a band1 which must be as long as your width across the chest4 ,you were shown how to put material into a band on page #e4 ,the little difference here1 however1 is that instead of gathering the material1 you pleat it4 ,mark the centre both of the band and the material to be pleated into it1 with a pin4 ,turn three little pleats on each side of the centre of the material4 ,on the little girl in the picture these pleats are each -inch wide1 but you must test carefully and get them the size just to fit the band4 ,the picture at the top of page #ah shows pleats being put into a band4 ,now sew on to the band a little length of insertion1 as you did at the bottom4 ,at each end of the top of the band1 however1 leave about -inch of insertion not sewn to the band4 ,this makes two tiny pockets into which you can slip the pink ribbon afterwards1 and you can then sew the ribbon and insertion through to the band4 ,then1 as you won't want to have the pink ribbon washed as often as you do the pinafore1 you simply have to take out those few stitches each time the pinafore goes to be washed4 ,besides1 you may not always want to wear pink4 ,with some dresses you may prefer to have pale blue ribbon1 or heliotrope1 or even red4 ,whatever colour you choose1 sew it into the pockets1 and your pinafore is ready for wear4 ,illustration ,the ,pink ,sun-bonnet4 ,a sun-bonnet--what does it make you think of8 ,doesn't it remind you of your last summer holiday--the country1 the birds1 the flowers8 ,close your eyes and try to imagine it4 ,can't you almost feel the heat1 and hear the hum of the insects1 and hear1 too1 the rattle of the pails1 as you used to hear it when ,maggie1 the rosy-cheeked milk maid1 wearing her pretty lilac sun-bonnet1 went down to milk ,brindle and ,beauty and ,cherry4 ,you thought that sun-bonnet looked so pretty1 and kept the sun from ,maggie's head and neck so beautifully1 and you wished you had one too4 ,you will wish it again1 when you go to the country for your next holiday1 and ,i expect you will want one when you are working in the sun in your own garden at home4 ,suppose1 therefore1 you start to make a sun-bonnet for yourself4 ,this one1 that is shown in the picture1 is really very easy to make4 ,it is of a pretty pink print1 with tiny flowers on it4 ,but perhaps your favourite colour is not pink4 ,probably1 you want a lilac one4 ,whatever colour you decide on1 get -yard of print that shade1 and you are ready to start4 ,cut off #ah inches along the full length of the print1 and hem along one edge4 ,about #a inch from the hem make a -inch tuck1 and #a inch from this1 another tuck4 ,now fold your print in half1 and join up the two edges for the back of the bonnet with a ,french seam1 which is described in the chapter on 8,dolly's ,underwear40 ,your sun-bonnet is now rather square in shape4 ,to get it rounded at the back1 take hold of the point and draw it down a little way on to the seam at the back4 ,there catch it with a few stitches4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,sun-,,bonnet ,,ready ,,for ,,wear4 ,no sun-bonnet is complete without a frill1 so the next thing is to sew this on4 ,cut off #ah inches of print #e inches wide1 hem along one side and both ends4 ,gather the other side1 and draw it up until it is the length of the bottom edge of the bonnet beyond the second tuck4 ,sew it on the inside to the bonnet edge1 leaving a little piece of the edge above the gathered piece4 ,turn in the edge1 and hem it over the seam4 ,this makes it quite neat4 ,the edges along where the frill does not come are also hemmed up4 ,for the strings1 cut off two lengths of #ad inches1 each #a inches wide4 ,hem each side and one edge4 ,turn the opposite edge in1 and sew it neatly to the inside of the bonnet4 ,your sun-bonnet is now finished1 and you will be able to ask nurse to put it into the trunk the next time she is packing to take you to stay at the farm4 ,won't ,maggie be surprised when you arrive with a bonnet like hers1 only just a few sizes smaller6 ,a ,red ,satin ,housewife4 ,what a tiresome way needles have of getting lost1 haven't they1 and even whole packets of needles have a trick of disappearing nobody knows where4 ,every little girl who does any sewing really needs some safe place in which to keep her needles4 ,this little housewife1 which is shown both open and closed1 is just the thing4 ,you can stick odd needles in the flannel1 and slip packets of needles in the pocket at the end4 ,if you always remember to do this1 you cannot very easily get them mislaid1 and the little red housewife will be quite a friend to you4 ,and what is more1 it is not difficult to make4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,needle-,,case ,,closed4 ,to make one exactly like that in the picture1 you want a piece of crimson satin1 #ab inches long by #c inches wide1 a piece of white flannel1 #aj inches long by #b inches wide1 some crimson embroidery silk1 salmon pink embroidery silk1 some crimson sewing silk1 and a pearl button4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,double ,,feather-,,stitching4 ,first lay your flannel on the wrong side of the satin4 ,if you put it on quite straight1 you will find there is -inch of red showing each side of the flannel1 and #a inch at each end4 ,at each side turn down a hem of satin1 so that it comes over the edge of the flannel4 ,tack and hem it4 ,now turn down and hem each end in the same way4 ,you will have wider hems here4 ,having hemmed the satin to the flannel all round 7taking care that the stitches do not go right through to the right side of the satin71 turn down #b inches at one end1 to make the little pocket you see in the picture1 sewing it neatly at each side with oversewing stitches4 ,oversew also the open ends of the opposite hem4 ,illustration3 ,the ,housewife ,when ,open4 ,now you know how to feather-stitch1 don't you1 or if you do not1 you will see on page #e how it is done4 ,work single feather-stitch with salmon pink silk down each side and end of the housewife4 ,the inside is now divided up into four divisions1 by double feather-stitch worked in crimson4 ,this is worked in the same way as single feather-stitch1 only that you take first two stitches one way and then two the other1 instead of one each way4 ,a little piece of double feather-stitching has been separately worked for you to see how it is done4 ,at the end opposite the pocket1 make a loop in red silk of two threads1 covered with blanket stitch4 ,this is described in the chapter on 8,dolly's ,bed40 ,now1 starting at the pocket end1 fold the needle-case over and over1 and just opposite where the loop comes1 sew a little pearl button1 and the housewife is finished1 and quite ready for you to stick your needles in4 ,you can use silk quite as well as satin for your housewife1 and if you like any other shade better than red1 make it of your favourite colour4 ,illustration ,presents you can make for ,people4 ,a ,feeder in ,cross-,stitch4 ,here is a pretty little feeder for baby that you will be able to make all by yourself4 ,i expect mother will be only too pleased to help you to get the materials4 ,you will want about half-a-yard of some soft white washing material1 a small quantity of ,penelope canvas1 a ball of coloured 8,brighteye0 embroidery thread1 and three-quarters of a yard of a narrow silk ribbon4 ,do you see the three happy little dogs running after each other across the bottom of the feeder8 ,these are worked in cross-stitch1 also baby's name in the centre4 ,if you haven't yet done any cross-stitch1 you had better first look at the little illustration on page #bf1 and see exactly how it is done1 before commencing to cut out your feeder4 ,illustration3 ,,baby ,,will ,,like ,,the ,,three ,,happy ,,dogs4 ,just for practice1 take a small square of canvas1 and thread a crewel needle with the embroidery thread4 ,bring your needle up through one of the large holes in the canvas1 count over two canvas threads to the right1 and two upwards1 put your needle in this hole1 and pick up two threads towards the left4 ,pull your thread through1 and this will give you the first part of the cross4 ,now put your needle in the hole two threads to the right of the hole you started from1 and bring it up through the hole two threads to the left of the first hole1 as shown in the second part of the little illustration4 ,illustration3 ,,making ,,the ,,crosses ,,on ,,the ,,canvas4 ,this1 as you will see1 completes the first cross1 and brings the thread ready to make a second one in the same way4 ,the lower part of the illustration shows the dog's tail commenced1 and how you should place your needle when you want to make a cross on the slant below4 ,one thing you should be very careful about when working in cross-stitch3 see that the threads are always crossed in the same direction1 and not sometimes one way and sometimes another4 ,your work will look so much better if this rule is always followed4 ,when you feel quite sure you can work the crosses evenly1 you can cut out the feeder4 ,perhaps you may like first to cut it out in paper4 ,take your tape measure and measure off a piece of paper #ab inches long and #aa inches wide4 ,fold this right down the centre1 the longest way4 ,measure two inches down the fold and two inches up the cut edges from one end1 and cut round from points ,a to ,b1 as shown in the little diagram4 ,this will give you a curve for baby's neck4 ,now measure down an inch on the long outer edges1 and cut from point ,b on the slant to this point1 which we will call ,c4 ,illustration3 ,,diagram ,,for ,,cutting ,,out ,,the ,,feeder4 ,now that you have a paper pattern1 you will be able to place this over your material and cut it from this4 ,you will want to have two pieces exactly alike1 so that you can use one to line the feeder4 ,we have now come to the interesting part of working the little dogs4 ,tack a strip of canvas along the bottom of the right side of one of the pieces you have just cut out2 the dogs are nine crosses high1 so the strip should be wide enough to take the design and leave a few extra threads of canvas above and below4 ,it is best to commence with the centre dog1 starting the centre cross of the design in the centre hole of the canvas1 you will then be sure of getting it right in the middle4 ,when working the other dogs1 leave #af threads of canvas between the middle one and each of these4 ,you will then have your three little dogs at equal distances apart1 and there will be no chance of their catching each other up6 ,canvas must be placed across the centre for the name in the same way4 ,illustration3 ,,one ,,of ,,the ,,cross-,,stitch ,,dogs4 ,from the illustrations of the dog and the letters1 you will easily be able to count the crosses1 and see how they are placed4 ,if baby's name is not ,may1 and you want to work another name1 designs for a whole alphabet appear on another page4 ,when you have worked all your designs1 the canvas threads must be pulled away4 ,cut the canvas down fairly close to the embroidery1 and pull out the threads one by one4 ,baby's name is shown with all the threads of the #8,y' pulled out1 and the #8,a' as it looks when only the cross threads have been pulled away4 ,to make up the feeder1 place the plain portion of the feeder over the embroidered one1 with the right sides facing one another1 and run round all the edges about a quarter of an inch in from the edge1 leaving only the curved neck edges open4 ,a running stitch1 with a back-stitch put in now and then1 is the best for this1 as this will hold it firm4 ,turn the feeder out on the right side1 then turn in the neck edges and oversew them together4 ,how the oversewing stitch is made is shown in the little illustration on this page4 ,hold the edges to be joined together firmly in your left hand1 and work from right to left1 always putting your needle in slanting just as the little picture shows1 and taking up about a couple of threads of the material from each of the edges you are joining together4 ,illustration3 ,,making ,,over-,,sewing ,,stitches4 ,the piece of work in the illustration has been flattened out1 in order that you may see the stitches more clearly2 but when you are oversewing you will hold the two pieces together with the thumb and first finger of your left hand1 oversewing the top of the two edges4 ,now cut your length of ribbon in half1 and sew one piece to each end of the neck of the feeder1 so that it can be tied round baby's neck when she wants to take her food4 ,illustration3 ,this shows how to pull the ,canvas away after the ,cross-,stitch is done4 ,cats on a ,chair ,back4 ,here is a very pretty thing that you will be able to make for ,mother4 ,how amused she will be1 when she sees these two funny cats sparring at each other1 and how nice the ,chair ,back will look hanging over the back of father's chair1 where he puts his head4 ,the ,chair ,back is hemstitched at each side and across each end1 so before we commence to make it we will find out how to do this stitch4 ,shall we take a small piece of linen and try and copy the little picture we have of the stitch just for practice8 ,when you have tacked a hem along1 draw out five of the horizontal threads of your linen1 just beneath the edge of the hem4 ,illustration3 ,they don't look very pleased to meet1 do they8 ,now for the stitch itself4 ,hemstitching is always done on the wrong side of your piece of work1 and the stitch is worked from right to left4 ,thread your needle with linen thread or a fairly coarse crochet cotton1 and fasten the end of it to the commencement of the hem4 ,now look how the needle is placed in the top part of the picture1 and put yours in in the same way4 ,place it under four of the open threads1 then pull your needle through1 which draws these four threads up closely together4 ,then make a small upright stitch up through the hem1 placing your needle as shown in the second part of your illustration4 ,these two stitches are repeated all the way along4 ,this is the simplest form of hemstitching1 and is what is used on the sides of the ,chair ,back4 ,illustration3 ,,showing ,,how ,,hem-,,stitching ,,is ,,done4 ,,serpentine ,,stitch ,,is ,,illustrated ,,at ,,the ,,bottom4 ,for ladder hemstitching you work along the other side of the open threads1 just as above1 taking the same group of threads4 ,when working on coarse linen1 or canvas1 two or three threads need only be picked up each time1 all that really matters is that you keep to the same number all the way along4 ,the stitch we have across the ends of our ,chair ,back is called serpentine stitch1 and the small piece of canvas at the bottom of the picture shows how to work this4 ,the first side is worked as in the simple hemstitching1 taking up four threads each time1 but in working the second side four threads are again taken up1 but the needle is here put between the threads taken up on the opposite side4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,finished ,,corner4 ,when you want to turn a corner in hemstitching a square cloth1 you first draw your threads out where the edge of your hem is to come each way2 then you fold the material on the wrong side diagonally through the corner1 turn the pointed end in until the point reaches the open threads1 make a crease1 turn the point back and backstitch along the crease4 ,you have a little picture showing just where the backstitching is done4 ,after this cut off the point beyond the backstitching1 turn the corner inside out1 and you have a neat little seam going diagonally from the corner to the edge of your hem 7as in illustration74 ,illustration3 ,,doing ,,the ,,back-,,stitching ,,along ,,the ,,crease4 ,you will find that these simple forms of hemstitching will be very useful to you in making all kinds of things4 ,to make the chair back you will want a strip of white ,hardanger canvas1 a yard long and about #ag inches wide2 this will allow for the hems4 ,first measure up five inches from each end1 and draw out four threads of canvas across each end1 then draw out two threads at each side1 about three-quarters of an inch in from the set of open threads at one end to the other2 you will have to cut the threads at each end4 ,now tack all the hems along2 you can turn in the ends of the wide hems and oversew them together4 ,hemstitch the side hems in simple hemstitching1 taking up three threads of canvas each time1 and the wide hems in the serpentine stitch1 taking two threads of canvas each time2 you will remember to take the alternate sets on the second side4 ,now you have only to embroider the cats4 ,these are worked in cross-stitch1 using 8,peri-lusta0 ,pearl ,knit1 size #e4 ,shade ,no #bdi is a pretty red that would do beautifully4 ,directions for working cross-stitch on canvas are given on page #bf1 and you will be able to copy the cats from the enlarged designs given below4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,tom ,,cat---- ,if you fold the chair back right down the centre1 and start the whiskers of the cats four threads on each side of this line1 they will be about the right distance apart4 ,the bristles on the legs and tails are made by working half crosses1 and those on the back by making long single strokes1 the length of two crosses4 ,the whiskers of the cat extend the length of three crosses4 ,three threads of the ,hardanger canvas are allowed for each cross4 ,on the material used for the chair back in your picture1 each cross worked out at about an eighth of an inch across1 but if the canvas you are using happens to be a coarser one1 you may perhaps find your crosses work out much larger1 in which case you must go over two threads each time so as to get your animals the right size for the chair back4 ,illustration3 ----,,and ,,his ,,enemy4 ,perhaps you would rather not make your chair back of ,hardanger canvas at all1 but would prefer to use linen1 or some material that has not got wide even threads2 this is not easy to count when working your crosses4 ,in that case you must first tack ,penelope canvas over your work1 and embroider the cats over this2 the enlarged designs in your pictures were worked on ,penelope canvas1 and you can see what nice large holes it has1 and how easy it is to work on4 ,and when you have finished the designs you just cut away the canvas quite close to the design1 and pull the threads of canvas out of the crosses4 ,you can put cross-stitch on to any material in this way4 ,a ,hardanger ,handkerchief ,sachet4 ,have you thought yet what you are going to make ,mother for her birthday present8 ,how would you like to work her a handkerchief sachet in ,hardanger ,embroidery8 ,you don't know how8 ,well1 if you follow this little talk very carefully1 ,i think you will soon learn4 ,what is ,mother's favourite colour8 ,rose ,pink8 ,very well2 how delighted she will be with what you are going to make6 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,finished ,,sachet4 ,what to get for the ,sachet4 ,can't you take ,mother shopping with you one day1 because you will want to buy a few little things for the sachet4 ,you will want a piece of ,congress ,canvas--cream or white--a square #ab inches each way1 a ball of ,ardern's 8,star ,sylko0 ,no4 #gdd1 size #e1 a square of white silk the same size as the canvas for lining the sachet1 a crewel needle1 #c yards of pink ribbon half-an-inch wide4 7,the best kind to get is a silk ribbon having threads running through1 that you pull and draw the ribbon up into a ruche4 ,this saves you all the trouble of running a thread through to make a ruche74 ,you also want a little pink sewing silk1 some white sewing silk1 a pair of sharp scissors with points1 and1 of course1 your thimble4 ,how to ,start4 ,first1 make sure your canvas is perfectly even all round1 #ab inches on each side4 ,when cutting it1 be careful to cut between the same threads all the way down4 ,turn in about a quarter of an inch all round very carefully1 and tack it4 ,fig4 #a shows the edge being tacked4 ,when you come to a corner1 just turn in again the end of the second side1 to make it quite neat4 ,you will see in ,fig4 #a what ,i mean4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,with the ,pink ,thread4 ,the tacking done1 the pretty work begins4 ,thread your crewel needle with the 8,sylko40 ,at one corner count #bd threads in from each side4 ,the hole just where these threads cross is your starting point4 ,now leave #c holes below1 and in the #dth bring your needle up from underneath for a satin stitch4 ,you will see how to do this stitch in making the doll's bedspread 7page #fg71 only as you are using a different kind of canvas here1 you leave #c holes instead of one4 ,make #d of these stitches4 ,leave #c holes1 and into the #dth start another little block of satin stitches4 ,do #d of these little blocks4 ,this brings you to the corner4 ,fig4 #b shows the little blocks4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,to turn the corner1 after making your #dth stitch1 bring your needle up into the #dth hole from the top of your satin stitch1 not the #dth from the bottom as before4 ,make one little block this way4 ,turn another corner in exactly the same way1 bringing the needle up in the #dth hole from the top of the satin stitch4 ,start another block4 ,when you have put the needle down for the #dth stitch of this block1 bring it up #d holes below the last hole at which you brought it up4 ,then put it back into the last hole at which you brought it up4 ,fig4 #c will make this clear4 ,make #d stitches1 now working from right to left4 ,turn again1 and make #d stitches1 working from left to right4 ,you will notice that wherever you turn a little corner--or make an angle--#b stitches go into the same hole1 one each way4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,when you have made #h little blocks in this way1 turn again1 and make #d blocks of satin stitch as you did on the first side1 the last stitch of the #dth block should take you back into the hole we called your starting point4 ,if it doesn't1 you have made a little mistake somewhere--either you have missed a thread1 or made two stitches in one hole1 or something like that1 and you will have to undo the work until you find your mistake4 ,this sounds rather hard lines1 doesn't it1 but unless you have got this outside part right1 you cannot cut and draw the threads properly1 and we want to have ,mother's sachet quite perfect1 don't we8 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,with the ,scissors4 ,how much quicker we seem to get on with scissors than with a needle and cotton1 don't we8 ,it is such quick work to cut a hole1 but quite slow work to mend one6 ,well1 you are going to do some 8scissors work0 now1 but you will have to do it carefully1 and make sure first just which threads you are going to cut4 ,i want you to notice one important thing4 ,always cut across the ends of your stitches1 never along the sides of them4 ,isn't this quite clear8 ,well1 look at the little diagram for cutting1 ,fig4 #e4 ,you cut the #c threads between ,a and ,b1 and between ,a and ,c1 and between ,c and ,j1 and between ,d and ,e1 and between ,g and ,h1 but never those between ,j and ,i1 or between ,i and ,d4 ,you see what ,i mean now1 don't you8 ,then be careful always not to cut too far1 that is to say1 never cut beyond the satin stitches1 only cut the threads enclosed by them4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,pull out the threads you have cut1 and you will have a little corner1 like that shown in ,fig4 #d4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4 ,weaving ,work4 ,now you have to do the weaving1 and this is very easy1 and nice work to do4 ,only remember not to drag the threads too tightly1 but you must not have them loose--just firm and even4 ,bring your needle up from underneath1 in the middle of one of the groups of #d threads1 take it over #b threads on one side up into the middle again1 and over #b threads on the other side4 ,look at ,fig4 #d again4 ,repeat this until you have #e stitches on each side4 ,bring your needle up between another set of threads1 and repeat4 ,when you have finished all the weaving1 fasten off neatly at the back of the canvas1 and your corner is done4 ,work the other #c corners in the same way4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #i4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,putting on the ,ribbon4 ,take your ribbon and cut off two pieces1 each #h inches long4 ,these are for the bow4 ,divide the remainder into four equal lengths1 and mark each little division with a small pin4 ,this is so that you will use just the same length on each of the four sides of your square4 ,with a needle1 draw out three or four threads running through the middle of the ribbon1 and pull these gently to draw the ribbon up4 ,it is not enough to pull on one thread or two1 because1 although it is easier to draw1 it may snap before you get very far4 ,draw up the ribbon until it is exactly the size to go round your square2 then pin the gathered ribbon round the sides1 taking care to get one of the divisions marked by the pin on each side of the square4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ac4 ,thread a needle with pink sewing silk1 and sew the ribbon on1 through the centre1 taking a very tiny stitch on top1 and a longer one underneath4 ,make a back-stitch every now and then1 by putting the needle back instead of forward4 ,this makes it a little more secure4 ,allow a little extra fulness at the corners1 so as to turn these carefully and evenly1 and here you will need one or two little backstitches4 ,when you get round to the corner from which you started1 turn in the end of your ribbon1 and join it neatly to your starting end4 ,take out the pins4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa4 ,lining the ,sachet4 ,take the square of white silk1 and turn in once all round about a quarter-inch1 and tack it4 ,lay it on your square of canvas1 so that the turned-in sides of canvas and silk come together4 ,pin these together all round4 ,with the white sewing silk1 hem the silk to the canvas carefully1 so that each stitch catches up a thread of the canvas1 but does not come through the gathered ribbon4 ,at the second corner1 slip in one end of one of your lengths of ribbon between the silk and canvas1 and when you come to that1 hem it in with the silk to the canvas4 ,when the hemming is finished1 the tacking stitches can be taken out of the silk4 ,illustration ,folding and ,finishing4 ,you have now got a silk-lined canvas square1 with a little end of ribbon attached to one corner4 ,you must now fold your square so that all the worked corners meet1 as you see in the picture on page #cd4 ,we will call your square ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d1 as the corners are marked in the diagram1 ,fig4 #f4 ,divide each side in half 7just put a tiny pin in to mark the division71 and call these points ,e1 ,f1 ,g1 and ,h4 ,now fold along the lines ,e to ,f1 ,f to ,g1 ,g to ,h1 and ,h to ,e4 ,this will bring your corners ,a1 ,b1 ,c and ,d all together in the middle if you have done your measuring quite carefully4 7,see ,fig4 #g74 ,let us call ,d the point that has the ribbon end4 ,now ,a1 ,b and ,c have all to be joined together1 but ,d is not sewn to them4 ,d's little ribbon end is only tied to the centre1 so that the sachet can be opened and closed4 ,catch ,a ,f and ,b ,f and ,a ,e and ,c ,e together with just a few tiny stitches under the ribbon1 sew the points ,a1 ,b1 ,c neatly together4 ,and here is where you attach your last little bit of ribbon having turned in one end neatly4 ,while you are sewing on this centre you had better keep your left fingers inside the sachet1 and your thumb outside4 ,then you will be quite sure that you are not sewing right through the sachet1 because it would be serious if when ,mother came to put her handkerchiefs in1 she couldn't get them down because it was sewn through1 wouldn't it8 ,you have now only to tie your two ends of ribbon in a nice bow1 and ,mother's handkerchief sachet is complete4 ,of course1 you will want to make some more of these sachets1 and you can work them in other colours1 or line them with coloured silk4 ,it would look pretty1 for instance1 to have a deep cream canvas1 worked with ,ardern's 8,star ,sylko0 ,no4 #gcd1 ,size #e1 which is a lovely cream shade4 ,then have for the lining1 forget-me-not blue1 and blue ribbon to match4 ,or you could work the satin-stitch in dark green1 ,no4 #gec1 and the weaving in a paler green1 ,no4 #gea1 and have a white silk lining and pale green ribbon4 ,and ,i am sure you will think of lots of other pretty colours you can use4 ,some other ,pretty ,corners4 ,perhaps you would rather work another kind of corner4 ,six others are shown1 any of which you would be able to manage1 ,i am sure4 ,for four of them1 you do not have to cut any threads4 ,the one with the cross in the middle1 ,fig4 #h1 would be very quickly worked4 ,the outer part of this is worked almost like the corner on the sachet1 only there are no straight blocks in a row here1 and you take #e stitches over #e threads for each block4 ,then you work #e stitches over #e threads each way into one hole in the middle for the centre cross4 ,fig4 #i is another little corner1 just like the one on the sachet1 only instead of cutting any threads1 you fill up alternate squares with satin-stitch blocks4 ,illustration ,then the star pattern1 ,fig4 #aj1 is pretty and easy4 ,you start by taking a stitch over #h threads1 then take one over #g1 over #f1 over #e1 over #d1 over #c1 over #b4 ,now over #b again1 and so on1 up to #h4 ,then start another row at right angles to the first1 and two more rows in the same way4 ,the long stitches in the middle are taken into the holes from which the short stitches were taken4 ,another easy little design shows two straight rows of satin-stitch crossing two in opposite ways 7,fig4 #aa74 ,sometimes a few rows of blocks outside a design will improve it1 and make it look bolder4 ,this is the case with the open-work square1 ,fig4 #ab4 ,a second row of blocks has been added outside the first1 working the stitches the other way4 ,in the last open-work corner1 ,fig4 #ac1 #d stitches are taken over #d threads1 and #e over #h threads1 then #d over #e threads again1 and so on4 ,all the threads are then cut away1 except the #d in the middle of each side1 and these are woven as usual4 ,now set to work and see what you can do4 ,after a little practice1 you will probably be able to make up some corners for yourself1 but until you are quite sure of the work1 it is better to practise those ,i have shown you4 ,illustration ,pale ,blue and ,heliotrope4 ,you don't know what to make for ,auntie8 ,why not make her a pretty bag to keep her work in8 ,the one on this page is in pale blue1 and looks ever so pretty4 ,too difficult8 ,oh no1 everything is easy when you know the way1 and you are going to have a little lesson in ,hairpin ,work to-day4 ,no1 the work isn't exactly done on a hairpin1 but on a staple4 ,this is similar in shape1 only larger4 ,for this bag you will want your staple--get one about #b inches in width--and a ,no4 #a steel crochet hook4 ,you will also want a ball of ,strutt's ,macram ,thread ,no4 #eab1 ,size #aj4 ,then1 if you want to line your bag1 you will need something pretty for this4 ,the bag you see here is lined with a heliotrope sateen1 which peeps very prettily through the pale blue4 ,one more thing--a few little white bone rings for the drawing-up strings to go through4 ,illustration3 ,the heliotrope sateen shows through the pale blue hairpin work4 ,all ,about ,loops4 ,commence by making a loop in your thread1 you will want this loop to be as long as half the distance between the two prongs of your staple1 so that when you hang it over one side the knot comes just in the middle4 ,so do not tighten it until you see that it will come just here4 ,put this loop over the left side of the staple4 ,put the thread across the front1 and over the right prong of the staple4 ,now take your crochet hook1 put it in the loop1 and catch the thread that you have put over the right prong from front to back4 ,this makes the first loop on the right4 ,slip the hook over the right prong 991 turn the staple over towards you1 wrapping the thread round the left prong1 as you do so4 ,by turning1 you now make the left prong the right one1 you have now one loop on your crochet hook4 ,put the hook under the loop which is now on the left side of the staple1 draw the thread through this4 ,this gives you two loops on your hook4 ,put the thread over the crochet hook1 and draw it through the two loops4 ,slip the hook over the right prong1 and repeat from 994 ,the picture shows the thread being drawn through the loop4 ,illustration3 ,the work being done on the staple4 ,notice that the commencing knot must be quite in the middle4 ,you must keep on making these loops until you have #ij on each side of the staple4 ,then finish off in this way4 ,when you have made the #ijth loop1 don't turn the staple1 but make two or three chain stitches1 cut the thread from the ball about #c inches from your hook1 and draw it through the loop on your hook4 ,this finishes the strip4 ,take the strip off the staple4 ,don't be afraid--it won't come undone4 ,make #f strips the same length4 ,these strips are twice as long as the bag is deep4 ,in making the strips1 don't pull the loops round the staple too tightly4 ,after a little practice the work will come quite easy1 and you will get along quickly with it4 ,joining the ,strips4 ,having finished your strips you have to join them4 ,one of the pictures shows this being done4 ,take two strips and lay them side by side on the table1 with the commencing ends of each towards you4 ,take up on your crochet hook three loops from the strip on the left1 then three loops from the strip on the right4 ,as the six loops lie on the hook--three from each side--draw the three from the right through the three from the left1 with the help of your left thumb and first finger4 7,if you look at the picture you will see that these loops usually lie twisted4 ,they should be taken on to the hook in this way1 and if one is not twisted1 turn it over with your finger and thumb74 ,you have now three loops on your hook1 which were picked up on the right hand strip4 ,take up three more from the left1 and so on1 for the length of the strip4 ,when you get to the end of the strip 7your last loop will have been taken from the right as you started on the left71 stick the hook with the loops on into the middle of the strip on the left1 and drawing through the length of thread which was left at the end of the strip1 fasten off securely4 ,now take the third strip and lay it on the right of the second strip2 start by taking up three loops from the third4 ,in joining1 see that you always commence on the odd strip1 that is to say1 on #a1 #c1 #e1 #g1 etc41 so that whether you are joining strips #b to #c1 or #c to #d1 you commence on strip #c1 and whether you are joining #d to #e1 or #e to #f1 you commence on strip #e4 ,illustration3 ,here are two strips being joined4 ,getting it into ,shape4 ,you must now fold in half your long piece of work1 and join up the sides to make it into a bag4 ,the sides are joined just the same as the other part1 taking first #c loops from one side and #c from the other until you get to the bottom4 ,with a little piece of thread1 fasten off very neatly on the wrong side1 sticking the hook in the middle of one of the strips before finishing off1 to make it quite firm4 ,to finish the top of the bag make a loop in the thread1 draw this through the top of one of the strips1 make #e chain stitches1 then #a double crochet into the joined loops1 #e chain1 #a d c into middle of next strip4 ,do this all round the top of the bag1 and fasten off4 ,for the cord1 make a chain of #cf inches4 ,sew #aj little white rings at even distances round the bag1 about #b inches from the top4 ,run the cord through these rings twice1 and when you get back the second time to the ring you started from1 join the cord neatly with a needle and cotton4 ,now you see it will pull up quite nicely each side1 and ,auntie can hang the bag on her arm4 ,we have not talked about lining the bag4 ,perhaps you don't want to line it1 but if you do1 make a bag of silk or sateen 7like the one described on page #aa71 the same size as the macram bag1 and slip it into it1 just catching it at the corners with a few tiny stitches1 so that the lining does not slip out of the bag4 ,this lining should have a nice deep hem at the top1 which could peep over the top of the macram bag4 ,your bag is now finished1 and if ,auntie is not delighted with it1 ,i shall be very much surprised4 ,the ,amiable ,pussy ,cats4 ,doesn't your pussy cat always like to be near at hand when the table is laid for tea1 on the chance of perhaps getting a saucer of milk8 ,of course1 you never let pussy himself sit on the table1 but it would be rather uncommon1 wouldn't it1 to have a cosy on the table with two dear little pussies worked on it like the one in the picture8 ,i think ,mother would like it1 too1 don't you8 ,the cosy cover in our picture was made of white ,hardanger canvas1 and is not fastened to the tea cosy itself1 but is made loose1 so that it can be taken off and washed4 ,red 8,bright-eye0 thread was used for working the cats4 ,illustration3 ,,how ,,they ,,look ,,on ,,the ,,cosy4 ,you will want to make it the right size for ,mother's tea cosy1 won't you8 ,well1 you will be able to get it exactly the size1 if you first take a piece of paper1 lay the cosy on it1 and draw round the cosy with a pencil1 then cut the paper out on the pencil line4 ,this gives you the shape of the side of the cosy1 but the material will need to be cut larger than this to allow for a seam and a hem across the bottom1 so take another piece of paper1 and using the piece you have already cut as a pattern1 cut the side out again1 this time allowing an extra quarter of an inch all round the curved edge for the seam1 and an inch along the straight edge for the hem4 ,now that you have a pattern1 cut out two pieces of canvas exactly this shape1 and you can commence to make up your cosy cover4 ,the hems at the bottom of the cosy have to be hem-stitched1 so you had better pull the threads out for this first4 ,measure each side up #a inches from the straight edge and draw out four threads4 ,directions for the simple hemstitching used are given on page #cj1 but before you do this part you must work your cats and join the two sides together1 so that you can turn up your hem all along both sides evenly1 and not have to join the hem after they are turned up4 ,work your cats in cross-stitch4 ,this stitch was described on page #be1 so that if you don't know how to do it1 just turn to this page and see how it is done4 ,you will be able to count the crosses from the drawing you have of the two cats4 ,the lowest cross of the tail of the cat sitting down should come six threads above the open threads for your hem2 this will help you in starting to work the design4 ,work two cats on each side of the cosy4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,design ,,for ,,counting ,,the ,,crosses4 ,when you have finished the pussy cats1 place the two sides together1 with the right sides facing one another1 and sew round the curved edges with a run and back-stitch1 then oversew along the cut edges to make them neat4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,cats ,,worked ,,on ,,penelope ,,canvas4 ,now turn up your hem and hemstitch it1 then turn the cosy on the right side1 and sew a piece of red cord over the seam of the cosy1 making three little loops in the centre at the top4 ,you must use red cotton to sew on the cord1 and take tiny hemming stitches that will not show too much4 ,if you don't want to make your cosy cover of canvas1 but would like to use linen or some other material1 you can work the cats on ,penelope canvas1 tacked over the material1 as you learnt to do when making the ,feeder4 ,what a ,contrast6 ,lazy ,lizzie uses pins ,when she sees a tear6 ,her buttons lie upon the floor1 ,the lace is off her pinafore2 ,and don't the people stare6 ,hilda is industrious1 ,nothing ever tires her2 ,she simply gets her sewing-box1 ,and quickly mends her pretty frocks2 ,and everyone admires her6 ,f4 ,k4 ,the ,orchid ,flower ,bag4 ,have you been trying very hard to think of something else that you can make for ,mother8 ,i wonder if she has a ,stocking ,bag8 ,if not1 you could easily make her one of these1 couldn't you1 and ,i know she would like to have one1 especially if she has several little boys and girls to mend stockings for4 ,if you make her a lovely big bag like the one in the picture1 she will be able to keep all the stockings that need mending together1 and will know exactly where to find them when mending day comes round4 ,illustration3 ,this ,bag will hold a lot of stockings4 ,it will be best to make the bag of a material that will wash nicely4 ,a good strong ,holland or ,crash would be very suitable4 ,you will want a strip of material about a yard long and fifteen inches wide to make a good-sized bag4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,orchid ,,design ,,for ,,the ,,bag4 ,the pretty little flowers across the bag are worked in cross-stitch1 and you have an enlarged diagram of the design which you will be able to count the crosses from4 ,use 8,bright-eye0 embroidery thread for working the flowers4 ,a purple thread would look pretty1 but perhaps you know another colour that ,mother is very fond of1 and would like to use that4 ,you must work the designs before you make up the bag4 ,fold the strip of material in half and tack a strip of ,penelope ,canvas across about four inches up from the fold4 ,directions for working cross-stitch over ,penelope ,canvas are given on page #bg1 in case you want to know how this is done4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,row ,,of ,,orchids ,,worked ,,on ,,canvas4 ,how to make up a bag1 too1 was described on page #aa1 and you can make this one in exactly the same way4 ,you will notice that this one has a cord threaded through rings outside of the bag instead of through a runner at the top though1 and if you like this way better you can sew twelve white bone rings at equal distances apart round the outside of the bag just at the bottom of the hem1 and put the cord through these4 ,you will want about two yards of coloured cord1 in the same shade as the thread you used for working the flowers4 ,thread the cord twice round the bag through the rings1 join it together1 and your bag is complete4 ,an ,alphabet that can be copied in ,cross-stitch4 ,illustration ,more ,letters for ,cross-stitch4 ,illustration ,illustration ,furnishings for ,dolly's ,cottage4 ,for ,dolly's ,bed4 ,one of the most enjoyable times of the day spent with dolly is the time when you can undress and put her to bed1 just as mother does baby4 ,and how much nicer1 too1 if you can feel that you have made all the bedclothes yourself4 ,you may perhaps think that you could never manage that1 but just look at these pretty little pictures of the things and see how simple they all are4 ,i am sure then that you will want to try and copy them for your own dear dolly4 ,before starting to make the outfit for the doll's bed1 get your materials together4 ,perhaps someone gave you a bedstead on your last birthday8 ,if not1 buy one the right size for your favourite doll4 ,the one in the picture is a metal one with a wire mattress4 ,for the mattress1 try to get a material something like that generally used for mattresses1 but not so thick2 a striped print would do quite nicely4 ,the mattress illustrated and the pillows are made of grey1 and white striped material1 bound with red ribbon4 ,the cover for the wire mattress is made of white calico1 the blankets of cream flannel1 the sheets and pillow-cases of white linen2 the bedspread and nightdress case of canvas worked with 8,brighteye0 thread4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,bed ,,ready ,,for ,,dolly4 ,the ,mattress4 ,cut out two pieces of material a little larger than the bedstead1 and another long narrow piece the depth of the mattress4 ,sew one side of the narrow piece around the sides of one of the large pieces 7running stitch will do quite well for this part of the work71 leaving the edges of the seam on the outside4 ,then join the other side of the narrow strip to three of the sides of the other piece you have cut1 leaving one side open to put the filling in4 ,this mattress is filled with horse-hair2 but cotton wool1 small pieces of rag1 or paper could be used instead4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,cover ,,for ,,the ,,wire ,,mattress4 ,when the mattress is filled1 sew up the fourth side and bind all the seams with narrow ribbon4 ,red ribbon is used on the mattress illustrated1 and a little specimen is illustrated1 showing how to put it on4 ,the ribbon is held over the seam edges with the left hand and back-stitched along1 taking your stitches right through the seam edges and both edges of the ribbon each time4 ,now you will need to stab the mattress in places1 as in the picture1 to make it look just like the one on your own bed4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,mattress4 ,take a long needle threaded with coarse thread the same colour as the binding1 put the needle through the mattress1 leaving a long end1 make two more stitches through the mattress in the same place1 pulling the thread tightly1 finish at the same side as you began1 tie a knot with the thread used and the long end left at the beginning and cut the threads1 leaving small ends of threads beyond the knot4 ,look at the illustration to see the positions in which you must put these stitches and knots4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,hemstitched ,,top ,,sheet4 ,the ,wire ,mattress ,cover4 ,cut the material a little larger than the wire mattress to allow for a quarter-inch hem2 hem the piece around1 and sew two narrow pieces of tape 7or coarse thread will do7 at each corner of the cover3 the cover is tied to the wire mattress with these pieces of tape4 ,the ,blankets4 ,cut the flannel out large enough to cover the top and sides of mattress and allow for tucking up4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,blanket ,,edged ,,with ,,blue4 ,turn down about a quarter of an inch single turning at each end of the blanket on the wrong side1 then work in blanket stitch across both ends4 ,you will see that a little specimen of work is illustrated1 showing how to make this stitch4 ,it is worked from left to right4 ,the turned-in edge of your blanket must be held along the first finger of your left hand1 and the needle placed in your work downwards towards you1 the thread always being held under your thumb as you make a stitch1 so that when you pull your needle you have a knot right at the edge of the work4 ,the ,sheets4 ,these should be cut a little longer than the blankets to allow for the wide hems1 and for turning back at the top4 ,the very narrowest of hems should be put at each side of the sheets1 and one about half an inch wide along the bottom of each2 but the top hems are about three-quarters of an inch wide1 and are worked in ladder hem-stitching4 ,all about how to do hem-stitching will be found on page #cj4 ,illustration3 ,,some ,,of ,,the ,,stitches ,,used3 ,no4 #a shows ,blanket ,stitch4 ,no4 #b shows ,outline ,stitch4 ,no4 #c shows ,whipping ,stitch4 ,no4 #d shows the ,stitch for ,binding the ,mattress4 ,at the corner of the top sheet the initial ,b is worked4 ,of course1 you must work the first letter of your doll's name4 ,if you are not sure you can write the initial on linen yourself1 get someone to do it for you2 then work it over in a fancy outline stitch with embroidery thread4 ,you have a little specimen of work showing how the outline stitch was made for the ,b4 ,in working this you hold your thread down along the design of your initial with your left hand1 and take a small stitch over the thread1 putting your needle in just above the thread and bringing it out just underneath2 this makes a little knotted stitch1 and the knots are repeated along the design at equal distances apart4 ,you can use this outline stitch for many purposes4 ,the ,pillows4 ,make the pillows of the same material as you used for the mattress4 ,these will need to be each about three inches wide1 and a little longer than half the width of the bed4 ,for each pillow cut two pieces of material exactly the same size4 ,run the two pieces together round three of the edges on the wrong side1 then turn on to the right side1 stuff the pillows with wool or small pieces of rag1 and oversew the edges of the fourth side together4 ,illustration3 ,,one ,,of ,,the ,,pillows4 ,the ,pillow-,cases4 ,make the pillow-cases in the same way as the pillows but a little larger1 and hem round one end so that you can slip the pillow in4 ,sew two pieces of very narrow tape to each side of the open end1 and tie the pillow into the case4 ,one of the pillow-cases has a frill round4 ,to make this1 cut out a narrow piece of linen1 hem one side of it1 and work a simple crochet edge on to this4 ,or you can use ,cash's ,frillings for this1 which are made to draw up easily into frills4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,plain ,,pillow ,,case4 ,when the frill is ready to sew on1 roll the edge of the other side of frill between your finger and thumb and sew over the roll1 as shown in the little illustration4 ,use a coarser thread for this1 working from right to left1 pulling the thread to gather the frill as you are working it4 ,this is called whipping1 and is really very much the same as oversewing1 only the stitches are taken right over the hem4 ,cash's ,frilling needs no whipping4 ,oversew the frill around the edge of the pillow-case4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,pillow ,,case ,,with ,a ,,frill4 ,the ,bedspread4 ,cut out a piece of canvas large enough to cover the bed1 and hang over the mattress1 allowing extra around for the hem4 ,hemstitch around1 taking two sets of threads together2 for the second side of the hemstitch sew together two sets of threads1 but take up alternate threads to those taken up on the other side2 this serpentine stitch is shown on page #cj4 ,the pattern of the bedspread is shown on page #fa4 ,each slanting stitch is worked over two holes--that is1 pull the needle through a hole1 leave two holes on the cross1 put the needle into the next hole1 leave two holes on the cross in the opposite direction1 pull the needle up through the next hole1 put the needle back into the same hole as the end of first stitch1 and up again through the hole at the beginning of the second stitch4 ,continue to work in this way all round the piece of canvas4 ,work three more rows like this1 arranged so that the stitches form a diamond pattern as you see illustrated4 ,then fill in the corners with the same pattern1 and work the pattern in the centre of dolly's bedspread4 ,the ,nightdress ,case4 ,the nightdress case is made with the same materials as the bedspread4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,nightdress ,,case4 ,cut out a piece of canvas two and a half inches wide and four and a half inches long2 fold this so that it makes a bag with a flap over it the same size as the bag4 ,put the two ends of the canvas for bag together1 and work in blanket stitch round through both pieces at once1 also around the edges of the flap to finish off the little case4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,stitch ,,for ,,the ,,bedspread4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,bedspread4 ,work three diamonds on the front of the nightdress case4 ,this completes the outfit for dolly's bed1 and ,i am sure she will like it4 ,illustration3 ,this ,patchwork ,quilt is for the spare bedroom used by ,seraphine's ,doll ,friends when they visit her4 ,a ,patchwork ,quilt4 ,,supposing ,miss ,seraphine's doll-friend ,clementine were to write and say she was coming on a visit next week4 ,wouldn't you be in a fix with no nice bedspread for the spare bed1 because you were reading that book instead of attending to the dolls' spring cleaning8 ,you will have to see about a new bedspread quickly1 and you can make one that will be very pretty1 with just a few little pieces4 ,here is where those scraps that ,grandma gave you the other day will come in usefully4 ,we are going to make a patchwork quilt4 ,it won't be as large as the one ,grandma has1 but ,clementine doesn't require a very big one to cover her4 ,first1 let us just see what pieces we have got together4 ,some unbleached calico1 some pieces with roses and rosebuds on1 some dark ones with leaves and bunches of grapes1 one piece with a little pink flower all by itself1 a few flowery bits1 and some with different kinds of spots4 ,there is just enough here to make something really lovely1 and ,i shouldn't wonder if when ,clementine sees it she doesn't want to change bedspreads with ,seraphine4 ,arranging the ,pieces4 ,but to get to work4 ,we must think out a little scheme of how we are going to arrange the pieces4 ,whatever you do1 don't put the dark ones on one side1 or throw them away1 because they are just what you will want to show up the light ones nicely4 ,we will decide to have our design in squares4 ,a little square of the pink flower could come in the centre4 ,then to show it up1 a dark square with leaves and a bunch of grapes could come above1 below1 and at each side of it4 ,you might have four little spotty patterns at the corners between two dark bits1 and above the top and below the bottom dark piece might be a little fancy pattern4 ,at the four corners left1 we will put a rose or rosebud4 ,look at the picture of a patchwork quilt1 and you will see how we have arranged them all4 ,then we might have a border of the unbleached calico4 ,before we go any further1 do you know what makes this so attractive and pretty8 ,it is the dark pieces--the pieces you wanted to throw away--and the plain border4 ,these darker pieces throw up the pretty light designs1 and make them look even more pretty1 whereas1 if you put all light together1 you could not so easily pick them out4 ,illustration3 ,tacking the material through the paper square4 ,an old letter has been used here4 ,covering and ,joining the ,squares4 ,if you haven't done any patchwork1 you will wonder how to get the little squares even1 and to join them together4 ,this is how it is managed4 ,you want #ae squares of stiff paper1 each measuring #a inches each way4 ,stiff old letters will do beautifully to cut up for this4 ,get a piece of cardboard1 #a inches each way1 and cut your papers by this1 taking great care that they are perfectly even and true4 ,cut out your #ae pieces of material in squares1 which should measure #b inches each way4 ,that will allow you inch on each side for turning the end over the paper to make it neat4 ,tack a piece over each square of paper1 as in the picture4 ,when the #ae squares are covered1 join them all together on the wrong side with oversewing stitches1 arranging them as we decided4 ,you will see how to do oversewing on page #bh4 ,illustration3 ,this shows the right side of the square4 ,the tacking threads are afterwards cut away and the paper pulled out4 ,how to ,manage the ,border4 ,for the border1 cut a plain strip of unbleached calico1 #b inches wide and about #cg inches in length4 ,on each side of this strip tack down inch4 ,now1 leaving about #b inches1 start sewing on the border at one corner of the quilt1 on the wrong side1 with neat oversewing stitches4 ,when you come to a corner you must mitre it4 ,from the corner measure along your border twice the width of the border1 i4e41 #c inches4 ,mark with a pin or thread4 ,now pleat your border strip so that the pin comes just on the corner4 ,if you have done this quite neatly and evenly1 your corner will be quite square4 ,on the wrong side you will have a crease across the diagonal of the border4 ,stitch along this firmly with run and back-stitch4 ,then cut away just beyond the stitches1 and oversew the raw edges to keep from fraying4 ,when you come to the corner from which you started1 you must join the two ends of the border1 and this is done just the same as the other corners1 by first creasing and then stitching on the diagonal4 ,illustration3 ,here is a corner being mitred4 ,illustration3 ,this picture shows a corner mitred4 ,the ,fancy ,stitch4 ,on the quilt in the picture a little fancy stitch has been worked in coloured 8,star ,sylko10 and this is a great improvement4 ,this is worked from left to right1 with first a little horizontal stitch then a long slanting stitch1 and below the slanting stitch another horizontal stitch4 ,bring your needle up from the wrong side4 ,take a few threads of material1 bringing the needle out on a line with the first place at which you brought it up1 but a little to the right of it4 ,bring it out under the stitch just made1 and carry it down in a slanting direction and make another little horizontal stitch in the same way1 this time1 however1 keeping your needle above the stitch4 ,then up again1 and so on4 ,the little pictures will make this stitch clear4 ,when you have gone all round the border1 you can take out all your tacking stitches and pull the paper away from the little squares4 ,now all that remains to be done is to line your quilt1 and this is done by taking a piece of white sateen #g inches wide by #aj inches long4 ,turn in once and then tack inch all round1 and hem it neatly to the counterpane1 as you were shown how to line the sachet on page #ci4 ,be careful not to let the stitches come through to the right side of the quilt4 ,if you want to make it extra warm you can put a layer of cotton wool in between the quilt and the lining4 ,it is now quite ready for the spare bed4 ,illustration3 ,how to work the fancy stitch round the border4 ,but perhaps some little mother says3 8,i haven't got any pretty pieces like those in the picture4 ,i have only got plain pink1 blue and white40 ,well1 you can arrange these to look pretty1 even if they are only plain colours4 ,put a square of pink in the middle1 have a white square above1 below1 and at each side4 ,at the four corners1 where the spotty bits are1 have blue4 ,the four outside corners could be pink1 and the top and bottom centre ones white4 ,then you could have a white border with blue stitching on it4 ,this is only one suggestion for plain colours4 ,you will soon think of plenty more4 ,there is ever so much you can do with a few pieces and a little patience4 ,just ,think6 ,mary ,mabel ,melancholy ,wouldn't even dress her dolly6 ,the only thing that she would do1 ,was sit and sing 8,bo-hoo6 ,bo-hoo60 ,so the cold1 uncomfy creature1 ,was confiscated by the teacher1 ,and given to ,alice ,always-,good1 ,who made it such a pretty hood4 ,f4 ,k4 ,for the ,new ,perambulator4 ,there is one thing that dolly absolutely must have before you take her out to see her friends1 and that is a new pram-cover4 ,you had almost forgotten that1 hadn't you8 ,just think how you would feel to have her dressed in her best for visiting1 and sitting in that beautiful perambulator that ,uncle gave you1 and no nice cover to match6 ,wouldn't you feel dreadful8 ,here is a pram-cover that you can make4 ,this has been worked on pale pink sateen1 with shaded green for the leaves and stems1 and dark crimson for the rosebuds4 ,use a shaded green ,no4 #h 8,star ,sylko10 crimson1 ,no4 #h1 and plain green thread1 ,no4 #e1 the same shade as the darkest part of the shaded thread1 for the lines around4 ,perhaps these colours won't go quite nicely with dolly's pram and outdoor clothes4 ,in that case you must decide on some other shades4 ,this pram-cover measures #aj inches long by #g inches wide1 then another #b inches has been added to the length1 and #b inches to the width for the hem4 ,you may find you need your cover larger or smaller than this one1 but whatever size you have1 don't forget to allow extra for a nice hem4 ,tack the hem down all round1 but do not hem it3 the stitches on the outside line keep it in place4 ,illustration ,having tacked your hem1 you have now to get the design transferred to your pram-cover4 ,just look at the outline design4 ,this is just the size you will want4 ,now take a piece of tracing paper1 and go carefully over the outline of the leaf wreath4 ,don't trouble about the bud at present4 ,next turn the paper over and run over the back of the design with a fairly soft lead pencil--the outlines will show through the transparent paper4 ,turn it over again and lay it on your cover1 taking care to get it nicely in the centre4 ,keep it firm and follow every line with a slightly harder pencil1 marking it firmly and evenly4 ,when you take your paper up you will find the leaves transferred to your pram-cover4 ,the buds are transferred to each corner in the same way1 putting them whichever way up you want them4 ,illustration3 ,,an ,,outline ,,design4 ,,actual ,,size4 ,all you have to do now is to work over the design in the outline stitch described on page #eh4 ,work the leaves and stems in the shaded green1 the rosebuds in crimson1 and the border lines in plain dark green4 ,you can then take out the tacking threads4 ,illustration ,dolly will be highly pleased to have such a nice cover to her perambulator4 ,she does like to be stylish1 doesn't she8 ,illustration3 ,this pretty ,bedspread is made of cream canvas embroidered in white and blue4 ,a ,bedspread for ,victoria4 ,i wonder whether you have made the bedspread1 shown on page #fa1 with the doll's bed outfit4 ,i daresay you have1 and perhaps the patchwork quilt too4 ,but of course you will not want all your doll-children's beds to look quite the same1 so how about a bedspread with a fringe to it for ,victoria's bed8 ,you usually dress her in blue1 don't you1 to match her eyes1 so you had better work the bedspread in blue4 ,no1 ,i know she does not go to sleep with her eyes open1 but she has lovely fair hair1 and pink roses in her cheeks2 and a cream bedspread1 worked in blue1 is what she needs to set her off properly4 ,the bedspread is worked in coarse cream ,hardanger ,canvas4 ,the little detail of the stitch shows you the actual size of the canvas4 ,if you use a finer canvas than this--as of course you can if you like--then you will have to take your stitches over more threads to get your design the same size as the one shown here4 ,the shade of blue that will suit ,victoria beautifully is ,no4 #gji in ,ardern's 8,star ,sylko10 size #e1 and you could use this for the work on your bedspread2 and you will also want some white 8,star ,sylko10 size #e1 for the satin stitch4 ,for sewing the fringe cream linen thread can be used4 ,if you have not yet learnt to work the stitches used in making this bedspread1 the best plan would be to take an odd piece of canvas and practise on that first4 ,illustration ,satin ,stitch4 ,we will start with the white outlines of the border4 ,this is worked in satin stitch--a very simple stitch1 but it needs to be worked evenly1 and the thread must not be pulled too tightly4 ,do not make a knot to start the work1 leave a piece of thread at the back1 and put the needle through this piece before you work the second stitch4 ,start by putting the needle up through a hole of the canvas1 miss #a hole1 put the needle into the next hole2 put the needle through the next hole on a line with the first1 and go on working stitches like this in a straight line4 ,if you do this in the right way1 the stitches on the right side will be straight1 and on the wrong side they will slant a little4 ,illustration3 ,this little square shows the stitches clearly4 ,the corners of this piece of work are done in an easy way1 look carefully at the illustration1 and ,i think you will see what to do4 ,the #b stitches on each side and the centre stitch are all worked into the same hole on the inside of the corner4 ,outlines of ,border4 ,now if you can do satin stitch1 the bedspread can be started4 ,leave #ab holes around outside the satin stitch line4 ,work #ej stitches across both ends1 #hd stitches on each side--not counting the #c extra stitches at corners4 ,leave #ad holes on the side and work a line of stitches across to the other side1 on both ends of work4 ,leave #ad holes1 counting towards the centre from side1 and work a second line on each side between the ones worked at each end4 ,to divide this into squares1 leave #ad holes1 and work rows of satin stitch between the #b lines4 ,centre of ,squares4 ,thread your needle with blue1 and put it up through the corner hole1 miss #b holes1 counting towards the centre1 put the needle in the next hole1 put the needle up through the third hole in a straight line from end of first stitch1 then into same hole as the end of first stitch2 work another straight stitch on the other side4 ,work #c more stitches like the first #c4 ,do #c more corners in the same way1 and join these corners with #d stitches1 these stitches make the square in the centre4 ,the fringe looks difficult1 but it is easier than it looks4 ,count #c lines of thread from the satin stitch1 this will leave #b holes1 draw out the next two lines of thread from across the canvas2 this leaves a narrow piece of the canvas with threads one way only4 ,on page #cj you will see how to do the ,serpentine ,hem-stitching4 ,this is the stitch that is used for the edge of this bedspread1 only that here you have no hem4 ,you just do the work on both sides of the threads4 ,then pull away the threads at the edge1 outside the second row of stitches1 and you will get your fringe4 ,the ,two ,dollies4 ,i always dress the ,princess ,clare ,in white with pale blue bows2 ,she is a most well-mannered doll1 ,and careful where she goes4 ,she never soils her muslin dress1 ,or makes her slippers in a mess4 ,but ,lady ,maude is always getting ,some ugly-looking tear2 ,or else her hat has had a wetting ,and isn't fit to wear6 ,and though ,i give her lovely sashes1 ,she gets them spoilt with muddy splashes6 ,a doll who acts so carelessly ,will have to wear a sack6 ,with just a piece of string to tie ,a sash behind her back6 ,you cannot let her wear pink silk ,when she upsets her bread and milk6 ,but ,princess ,clare goes out to tea1 ,and often has a treat2 ,you know wherever she may be ,she will be clean and neat4 ,a child like this is quite a treasure1 ,to take her out is such a pleasure6 ,f4 ,k4 ,for ,dolly's ,cottage ,window4 ,,little casement curtains are quite the best kind for the doll's cottage windows1 and on this page is shown a very pretty one that you will probably like to make4 ,this is of dark green sateen1 and the work on it is done in light green and pink 8,brighteye40 ,it looks very nice in the picture1 but it looks a great deal prettier when you can see the colours just as they are4 ,and isn't the way the little circles are entwined just sweet8 ,are you thinking that you couldn't manage it8 ,well don't think it any more1 because you can1 if you just follow this little talk carefully4 ,the stitch on this little curtain is called chain stitch4 ,it is worked from right to left1 or to be really nearer the mark--from top to bottom4 ,to make it1 bring your needle up from underneath1 leaving a little end at the back4 ,hold the thread down with the left thumb1 and1 putting the needle back where you brought it up1 take up a few threads of the material with the needle4 ,pull the thread through1 but not too tightly1 repeat the stitch4 ,one little picture shows you chain stitch being worked4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,little ,,green ,,curtain4 ,illustration3 ,,working ,,the ,,chain-,,stitch4 ,illustration ,for this curtain1 a piece of sateen1 #e inches long by #d inches wide1 is needed4 ,turn a narrow hem on all four sides1 and tack it4 ,the top edge must be hemmed with tiny stitches1 but the other three sides need not be hemmed1 as the chain stitches will keep the hems down4 ,this chain stitch can now be worked over the hems1 on the right side4 ,now measure in #a inch from the left side of chain stitch1 and work another row in the same way4 ,between these two straight rows come the interwoven circles4 ,to get these circles even1 cut out a piece of cardboard the same size as the top of your thimble1 and draw little circles round it on the sateen1 allowing each circle to overlap the last one just a little bit4 ,now each little round touches the next one at two points4 ,at one of these points it goes under1 and at the other1 over the next round4 ,you will easily see what ,i mean by looking carefully at this little curtain4 ,when the circles are all finished1 they look like a chain1 with one pink and one green link alternately4 ,the only other thing to do is to sew the rings to the top of the curtain1 for putting your curtain rod through4 ,you will want one just like it for the other side of the window1 and in making this1 be sure and get your circles on the opposite side of the curtain1 so as to make them a perfect pair4 ,carpets and ,hearthrugs4 ,the worst of having a house papered and painted a fresh colour is that it means getting all the furnishings to match1 and carpets1 hearthrugs1 curtains1 etc41 are expensive items1 if you have to buy them4 ,but one must have a change in the doll's cottage sometimes1 so suppose1 to-day1 you learn how to make a pretty carpet and hearthrug for it4 ,you can make your carpet and rug of whatever shades you like1 and it would be best to choose colours that will go nicely with your wall paper4 ,for instance1 if the sitting-room of your doll's cottage is going to have a paper with pink roses and green leaves on the wall1 you had better decide to have pink and green for your carpet and rug4 ,if you have yellow walls1 a carpet in a lovely shade of brown1 and just a little yellow in it would be delightful4 ,of course1 if the doll's cottage has white or cream walls1 you can choose whatever colours you like for the floor4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,in-,,and-,,out ,,pattern ,,for ,a ,,rug4 ,the ,in-and-,out ,pattern4 ,let us make this little rug first1 as this is a particularly easy pattern4 ,cream ,congress ,canvas has been used for this1 and on page #gh there is a picture of a little bit worked on canvas1 that you may see which way the stitches go4 ,this rug measures #d inches long by #b inches wide when finished1 but it does not matter at all what size you make it4 ,this has been worked in ,baldwin ,walker's ,ladyship #c-ply ,fingering1 pink and green4 ,this is a lovely soft wool to use4 ,commence by turning the canvas in all round and tack it4 ,run the pink wool up a little way at the back of the canvas1 leave a loop at the end1 then start the first row between #bnd and #crd threads from the left side1 99 pass the pink wool under #a thread of canvas2 then over #f threads and under #b threads #f times1 now over #f threads and under #a at end of canvas1 leave a loop at end1 and start the next row between the next two threads of canvas4 99 ,work four more rows from 99 to 994 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,twisted ,,and ,,darned ,,pattern4 #fth ,row4--,pass the pink wool under #a thread1 over #b threads1 under #b threads1 over #f threads #f times2 now under #b threads1 over #b threads1 under #a thread4 ,work #d more rows like this4 ,repeat from #ast row to #ajth row until the work is the right width4 ,turn the canvas round and work the green wool across the canvas left between the pink wool4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,in-,,and-,,out ,,pattern4 #ast ,row4--,start between the #crd and #dth threads from the top and the #fth and #gth threads from the side499 ,pass the green wool over #f threads and under #d threads twice1 then over #f threads1 slip thread on to next hole at the back of the canvas4 ,work #b more rows like this from 994 #dth ,row4--,start the #dth row in the same hole as the #ast pink stitch of group ends4 ,pass the green wool over #e threads1 then under #d threads and over #f threads three times1 now over #f threads1 slip the thread at back to the next hole for next row4 ,work #b more rows like this4 ,oversew the #b threads at the end of the rows with green wool1 and twist the wool over the single thread at the end of the fringe loops4 ,if there is any difficulty in counting the threads when working the green across1 look at the back of the work4 ,repeat the #f rows until all the canvas between the pink threads is covered4 ,the ,twisted and ,darned ,pattern4 ,if you want to use the design for a carpet you can make it larger and square-shaped1 or here is another design that is thicker1 and will therefore be softer and nicer for the dolls' feet4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,twisted ,,and ,,darned ,,carpet ,,pattern4 ,this twisted pattern is also shown in the shape for a rug1 which measures #e inches long by #c inches wide1 but it can be made whatever size and shape you like4 ,it has also been worked on ,congress ,canvas1 with ,baldwin ,walker's ,ladyship #c-ply ,fingering4 ,the colours used are light green for the twisted pattern1 heliotrope for the star in the middle1 and dark green for the darning4 ,with this carpet a paper with pansies or violets would look very pretty4 ,here again little samples of the stitches have been worked on canvas1 that you may see clearly how they are done4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,detail ,,for ,,working ,,the ,,diagonal ,,pattern4 ,the twisted pattern is worked in satin stitch over #d threads of canvas4 ,you will see this stitch is described on page #ga1 and if you look at the pattern carefully1 you will get the twist over and under quite right4 ,to make the corners1 work the stitches over #c1 then #b1 and #a thread1 then over the middle1 work the other side of corner over #a1 #b1 and #c threads1 finish over #d threads into the same hole as the last stitch1 over #d threads on the other side of the corner4 ,look at the pattern on the canvas as you work this out1 that will also show how many stitches to do1 and the way they are arranged4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,hearthrug ,,in ,,the ,,diagonal ,,design4 ,for the star in the centre1 work from corner to corner twice1 crossing the thread in the centre1 then another stitch from the centre hole on the top to the centre hole at opposite end1 and another across the centre4 ,the canvas between the twisted pattern is darned1 that is1 pass the thread over #b threads of canvas and under #b threads--this also is plainly shewn on the coarse canvas4 ,illustration3 ,fading light4 ,work blanket stitch into every hole around the edge4 ,a square carpet of this design1 with a small rug of the ,in-and-,out pattern1 would look very well1 but you would have to use the same colours for both1 of course4 ,the carpet could be fastened to the cottage floor with small drawing pins4 ,the ,diagonal ,pattern4 ,here is still another kind of rug that you can make4 ,it is also worked in ,baldwin ,walker's #c-ply ,ladyship ,fingering on ,congress ,canvas1 and the colours that have been used are pale blue1 grey1 and violet4 ,a row is worked in each colour until the rug is large enough4 ,this little hearthrug shown measures #d inches by #b inches1 but you can make it as large as you like4 ,the rug is worked in satin stitch for the #ast row1 the stitches are upright1 over #d threads1 but each fresh stitch is started one thread lower1 and of course finishes one thread lower4 ,the next row is worked across1 also over #d threads1 each stitch is started one thread farther back than the one before1 and finished in the same hole as one of the stitches of the row before4 ,if you look at the two little specimens that have been worked1 ,i don't think you will have any trouble over this4 ,you will notice that when you come to the edge1 and want to finish off straight1 you have to take your stitches over #d threads1 #c threads1 #b threads1 and then #a thread4 ,the edge of the rug is worked in blanket stitch4 ,the ,ostrich and the ,silkworm4 ,this ,poem was written over a hundred years ago4 ,one morning an ostrich1 returning with glee ,from laying her eggs in the sand1 ,trotted under the boughs of a mulberry tree1 ,where a silkworm was weaving her band4 8,good day10 said the worm1 wishing much to be heard1 8,any news in the papers1 my dear80 8,who's there--is it you1 my good friend80 said the bird2 8,why1 no1 not a line that ,i hear4 8,except--yes1 ,i met with one comical thing 7,design'd1 ,i suppose1 for a skit71 ,an account of a feather ,i brush'd from my wing1 ,because it was ruffled and split4 8,and a cone of old silk you had dropt to the ground 7,choice articles both1 ,i confess71 ,that one of those great human creatures had found1 ,and made somehow into a dress2 8,and when it was finish'd 7you wouldn't suppose ,such queer1 unaccountable pride71 ,the creature imagin'd because of its clothes ',twas better than any beside4 8,it walked to and fro for its fellows to see1 ,and turn'd up its nose at the crowd1 ,as if it forgot1 little cousin1 that we ,had really best right to be proud40 8,he6 he6 why1 you don't tell me so10 said the worm2 8,ha6 ha60 said the bird1 8but ,i do2 ,but ,i keep you from dinner2 good day to you1 ma'am2 ,mind--,i don't tell the story for true40 ,,jane ,,taylor4 ,illustration ,about ,dolly's ,wardrobe4 ,cutting ,out your ,doll's ,clothes4 ,whatever garment it is you are wanting to make for dolly1 you should first get a good pattern to cut it out from4 ,you will find that your paper pattern only gives half of the garment1 and by cutting each piece on double material you get the whole article4 ,for instance1 if you are cutting out a chemise for dolly1 the pattern will give you half of the back and half of the front1 and you will notice that the straight edge of each portion is marked 8place to fold10 which means that you must fold your material and place these edges along the fold1 so that when you have cut out the two portions you will have the full front and the full back of the chemise4 ,this rule of cutting on double material generally applies to all the portions of the pattern1 but it is not always necessary to lay the edge against a fold1 you only do this when your pattern is marked in this way4 ,for instance1 you will have the pattern for the whole sleeve when cutting out a frock1 and by cutting it on double material you get a sleeve for each arm4 ,illustration ,before starting to cut out1 clear your table of everything else1 so that you have a nice flat surface2 and whatever you do don't try to cut out with a cloth on the table1 or you will find you are constantly pinning your pattern right through to the cloth1 instead of to the material only4 ,you will want a sharp pair of scissors to cut out well1 and a good supply of pins4 ,you will notice that one blade of your cutting-out scissors has a very sharp point1 while the other blade has a rounded blunt end4 ,to cut out successfully1 you must always hold your scissors so that the blunt blade comes underneath your work4 ,this prevents the sharp point of the scissors from running into the material1 and making a hole where you don't want one6 ,look at each portion of the pattern carefully1 and place it on to the material according to what is marked on the paper pattern1 then pin it down securely and cut round the portion close to the edge of the paper4 ,be sure you cut into the little notches that you will find cut in some of the edges1 as these will help you in putting the pieces together4 ,the edge that has one notch has to be joined to another edge with one notch1 the edge with two notches to another edge with two notches1 and so on4 ,if the material has a pattern on it1 be sure that you have it the right way up4 ,for instance1 if you are making dolly a frock out of a piece of material with birds on it1 see that you arrange the pattern on the material so that the birds come with heads up4 ,and also see that both the pieces of material1 if you are cutting it double1 are the same way up4 ,wouldn't it look queer if it turned out that one half of dolly's frock--when you had put it together--had birds standing on their feet1 while the other half showed them standing on their heads6 ,making ,dolly's ,underwear4 ,good mothers always try to have their children dressed neatly and prettily1 not only giving them nice hats and dresses1 but having all the other clothes to match4 ,of course1 you want to be like a good mother to dolly1 but perhaps you do not know how to make some of the things4 ,well1 just look at this pretty set of underwear1 and read what is written about them1 and see if you can make a set for dolly4 ,the nightdress1 chemise1 flounced petticoat and the knickers are made of nainsook1 and the plain petticoat of fine flannel4 ,you have a little article on page #hc telling you how to cut out the garments from paper patterns4 ,illustration ,the ,nightdress4 ,we will commence with the little nightdress4 ,the seams of this are joined with what is called a run-and-fell seam4 ,lay the two edges to be joined over one another1 placing the edge of the upper portion just below the edge of the under one1 and run them together1 about an eighth of an inch in from the upper edge4 ,when you have finished running the seam1 you turn the edge of the under portion over the upper edge1 and fold the seam down flat and hem it 7or fell it7 along4 ,this is shown in your illustration of the seam4 ,the side you have hemmed is the wrong side of the seam4 ,illustration3 ,,dolly',s ,,nightdress4 ,when you have joined both the seams1 make a half-inch hem round the bottom of the nightdress1 and make the very tiniest of hems round the neck and sleeve edges4 ,to trim your night-gown you will want a little lace edging with a beading at the top that you can thread a piece of narrow ribbon through4 ,hem the edging along the hems you have made at the neck and sleeve edges1 then thread in the ribbons with a bodkin1 and draw them up to the size for dolly's neck and wrists4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,knickers4 ,the ,chemise4 ,the chemise seams are joined in the same way as those of the night-gown1 and narrow hems are placed round the neck and armhole edges1 a little wider hem being put round the bottom of the chemise4 ,trim the neck and armholes with lace edging1 as you did the night-gown1 and draw up the neck only with ribbon4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,chemise4 ,the ,white ,petticoat4 ,in making the little petticoat you have only one seam to join up at the centre back4 ,you can use a ,french seam for this1 and to make this you run the edges to be joined together on the right side1 then turn your work over and run the seam down a second time4 ,i think the little picture will explain this quite clearly to you4 ,the seam is shown being run the second time1 and you will see how this covers up the raw edges and leaves you with a neat little double seam sticking out on the wrong side of your work4 ,this seam will be useful when you want to make dolly frocks1 etc41 or anything where you don't want to show any stitches on the right side of your work1 and yet want it very neat on the wrong side4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,flounced ,,petticoat4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,flannel ,,petticoat4 ,don't join the back of the petticoat all the way up1 but leave about two inches open at the top to form a placket4 ,make a narrow hem down each of the two edges of the opening on the wrong side1 then place one hem over the other and backstitch them together across the bottom of the placket2 this will make it firm1 so that you won't tear the seam when dressing dolly4 ,when you want to backstitch1 you start as you would for running1 but only taking one stitch at a time1 and for each stitch you put your needle back into the end of the stitch you have just made1 so that you have a row of even stitches without any spaces between4 ,i think the illustration will explain this to you4 ,if you are going to trim your petticoat with a little embroidery flounce1 you must turn a hem round it the same width as your flounce1 then whip the top of flounce to the top of the hem4 ,how to do whipping was described on page #fj4 ,the top of the petticoat is gathered and placed into a band the size for dolly's waist2 putting gathers into a band was described on page #d4 ,illustration3 ,,how ,,herring-,,boning ,,is ,,done4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,run ,,and ,,fell ,,seam ,,and ,a ,,sample ,,of ,,back-,,stitching4 ,illustration3 ,,how ,a ,,button ,,is ,,sewn ,,on4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,french ,,seam ,,being ,,made4 ,the petticoat is fastened with a button and buttonhole4 ,if you do not yet know how to make a buttonhole1 turn to page #f for this4 ,you have an illustration on this page showing how the button is put on4 ,use a small white linen button1 make a little bar of threads across the centre1 just working over and over through the button and the band1 then bring your needle out at the left end of the bar of threads and work buttonhole stitches closely together along the bar4 ,when you have worked to the other end1 put your needle through the button and bring your cotton out between the button and the band1 wind the cotton round four or five times1 then put your needle down through the band and fasten off your cotton on the wrong side4 ,the ,knickers4 ,in joining up the little knickers you must first join each of the leg seams1 then you join the two legs together from the front to the back1 leaving a placket at the back as you did in making the petticoat4 ,finish the placket as before1 then make a narrow hem round the top of the knickers1 and thread a piece of tape through this to tie round dolly's waist4 ,gather the knee edges and place them into bands1 and trim with a narrow lace or embroidery edging4 ,perhaps you will like to feather-stitch the bands2 this stitch was described on page #g4 ,the ,flannel ,petticoat4 ,now take the piece of flannel for your other petticoat4 ,the seam of this has to be joined in a different way to the other garments you have been making4 ,you first run the two edges to be joined evenly together1 then fold them over and herring-bone the raw edges down flat4 ,herring-bone stitch is worked from left to right2 you hold the edges of the seam down1 and first take a little stitch below the edges1 and then one just above1 putting the stitches fairly close to each other so that the threads cross evenly4 ,if you don't feel quite sure of this stitch1 take a small piece of flannel for practice and copy the little picture4 ,then1 when you can work the stitch evenly1 you can do your seam4 ,place the top of the petticoat into a band and finish with a button and buttonhole4 ,you will see that little pleats are made instead of gathers to bring the petticoat to the size of the band2 the pleats set better in the flannel than gathers4 ,finish the bottom of the petticoat with a hem and tuck4 ,how to make a tuck was described on page #ah4 ,the set of underwear illustrated was made for a doll #ah inches high1 measuring from the top of the head to the sole of the foot4 ,for this size set1 about one yard of nainsook and a quarter of a yard of flannel will be sufficient4 ,two yards of lace edging1 a yard of embroidery edging and two yards of bb ribbon will also be needed4 ,a ,frock and ,coat for ,dolly4 ,making the ,frock4 ,if you haven't made dolly any dresses before1 a simple yoked pattern like the one she has on in her picture will be an easy pattern to start with4 ,you will want about a yard of some pretty soft material4 ,a fancy delaine or creponne with a pretty floral design on it would look well1 or you may prefer to have a plain material4 ,a yard of lace and two yards of bb ribbon will also be required if you are going to trim your frock exactly like the one in the picture4 ,carefully cut out all the pieces you want to make the frock4 ,you will find out how to do this on page #hc4 ,when you have all the pieces cut out in the material1 take the yoke portions of the pattern and cut them out again from a little piece of nainsook or something that will do to make a lining4 ,join the side seams of the skirt with ,french seams1 then cut a placket two inches long in the centre of the back part of the skirt1 and finish it as you were told how in the article on making dolly's underwear4 ,now take the dress yoke portions1 and join the shoulder seam4 ,just an ordinary little run together seam on the wrong side will do for these1 as you will remember we are going to line the yoke4 ,illustration3 ,you can see here how pretty the frock is4 ,gather the top of the front of the skirt1 and draw it up to the size of the lower edge of the front of the yoke4 ,place the edge of the yoke and the edge you have gathered together just as if you were going to make a seam 7be sure you put the right sides of the material inside7 and backstitch along firmly4 ,turn in a quarter-inch single turning1 from the neck down to the lower edge of each of the backs of the yoke1 then gather the backs of the skirt and join them to the yoke as you did the front4 ,join the lining yoke portions together1 turn your dress on the wrong side1 and place the lining yoke over the dress yoke1 so that the edges of the seams come inside4 ,turn the lower edges of the lining yoke in and hem them along to the back of the gathers1 making it all neat inside1 and in the same way turn in the straight edges of the backs of the lining to meet the single turnings you made on the dress yoke2 oversew these edges together4 ,illustration3 ,,making ,,french ,,knots4 ,you will notice that the top edge of your sleeve portion is curved up much higher one side than the other2 the high side has to come on the shoulder1 and the lower side underneath the arm4 ,you will have to be careful in joining up the sleeves1 that in the second sleeve the high side comes the opposite side of the sleeve to what it does in the first sleeve1 so that you have one sleeve for the left and one for the right arm4 ,join up the sleeves with ,french seams4 ,take your little cuff band1 fold it in half and join up one side with a single seam1 so that it is joined in a circle4 ,gather the bottom of the sleeve1 until it is the same size as the cuff4 ,place the cuff over the bottom of the sleeve 7with the right side of the material inside71 and backstitch the gathered edge to the edge of the cuff4 ,fold the cuff piece in half over the gathers right round1 then turn your sleeve on the wrong side1 and hem the other edge of the cuff to the back of the gathers4 ,make the other sleeve in the same way4 ,to put the sleeves into the dress1 first gather the tops1 until they are the size of the armhole of the frock4 ,place the short part of the sleeve over the skirt seam1 so that it will come under dolly's arm1 and place the sleeve seam to the seam joining the yoke to the skirt at the front4 ,make a seam of the armhole and the gathered edge of the sleeve4 ,to neaten the armhole seams1 bind them with narrow tape or ribbon4 ,now you are ready to turn up the bottom of the frock4 ,measure dolly from her neck to where you want the bottom of the frock to come4 ,then measure the same distance down from the neck of the frock in front1 and turn up a nice wide hem evenly all round4 ,if dolly's frock is of plain material1 instead of just hemming the hem1 you might like to finish it with ,french knots along4 ,you must work these with embroidery thread1 and you have a picture showing how the knots are made4 ,bring your needle up through the double hem on the right side1 hold the thread down with the left hand thumb1 and pick up a tiny stitch along the hem1 just where the thread comes out2 now1 with the right hand1 wind the thread round the needle 7just as it is in the picture71 pull your needle out1 and you will find you have made a little twisted knot4 ,put your needle down through the hem again close to the knot1 and bring it up a little further along the hem1 ready for the next knot4 ,make your knots equal distances apart all round4 ,this is a very good way of finishing any hem1 where you do not want a row of hemming stitches showing on the right side4 ,bind the neck of the frock with a narrow strip of the material4 ,divide the lace into two equal lengths1 then cut one length in half again4 ,pleat the longest piece into the neck of the dress1 and one short piece into each cuff4 ,loop your ribbon up into a little rosette1 leaving one or two long loops hanging1 and place this on the left side of the yoke4 ,fasten the frock with buttons and buttonholes at the back4 ,making the ,coat ,dolly wears on page #hb4 ,serge would be a good material to use4 ,half a yard would be sufficient to make it for an #ah-;inch doll1 the size of the one in the picture4 ,two yards of a tiny white braid were used to trim the coat4 ,when you have carefully cut out your coat pattern1 join up the under-arm and shoulder seams4 ,to join coat seams you must just place the two edges to be joined together evenly1 and backstitch them together on the wrong side4 ,to neaten the seams inside the coat1 open them out flat and bind each of the raw edges separately4 ,to get them quite flat you will have to press them with a hot iron4 ,the coat sleeve has two pieces1 so you will have two seams to join for each sleeve2 join them just as you did the shoulder and under-arm seams1 and be careful to get one sleeve the reverse way to the other one4 ,now take the front facings1 lay them on to the right side of the fronts of the coat 7you will see they are just the same shape as the fronts at the outer edges74 ,backstitch these pieces on to the fronts all round where the edges meet the coat edges1 then turn the facings inside the coat4 ,bind the straight raw edges of the facings that come inside the coat4 ,turn back the top of each front to form a rever4 ,turn a single turning half an inch wide round the bottom of the coat1 and backstitch along about a quarter of an inch in from the fold2 bind the raw edge of the turning inside the coat4 ,finish the wrist edges of the sleeves in the same way1 and put them into the coat as you put in the dress sleeves2 they will need very little gathering4 ,cut a second collar out of a piece of soft sateen or lining1 place the two pieces together and backstitch round three of the edges1 leaving the curved neck edge open4 ,turn the collar inside out1 pushing out the corners carefully4 ,to join the collar to the coat1 seam the neck of the coat to the neck edge of the lining of the collar1 then turn the neck edge of the collar in over this seam and hem it along neatly4 ,put the braid round all the edges of the coat as shown4 ,using white cotton1 hold the braid along the work1 and sew it on with small running stitches along the centre of the braid4 ,make three buttonholes on the right front of the coat1 and sew buttons on the left front to correspond4 ,illustration3 ,this is the ,peacock ,cloth4 ,one ,peacock is standing on the top of a wall1 while the other struts about on the grass and shows off his splendid feathers4 ,isn't it pretty8 ,a ,chapter about ,pretty ,oddments4 ,a ,peacock ,cloth4 ,,the sight of these pretty peacocks makes you long to sit down and start working them1 ,i am sure1 and when worked on a square of white ,hardanger canvas1 they really make a most attractive little cloth or table-centre4 ,the cloth in the picture was about #ab inches square when hemmed1 but you can make it just what size suits you best2 this will1 of course1 greatly depend on what you want to use it for4 ,there is one thing1 however1 that you must be very careful about1 and that is that your piece of material is perfectly square1 and not wider one way than the other4 ,also be sure you allow about an extra #a inches all round to the size you want the cloth to be when finished1 so that you can have a nice wide hem4 ,you must first hemstitch your cloth all round1 and you learnt all about how to do this on page #cj4 ,illustration3 ,you can count the squares in this ,peacock with tail outspread4 ,the peacocks are worked in cross-stitch with ,j4 ,j4 ,baldwin's ,beehive ,shetland ,wool1 in a crimson shade4 ,if you are making your cloth out of ,hardanger canvas1 you will be able to work the crosses very easily4 ,when working on the ,hardanger canvas1 you just make your crosses over three threads of the canvas each way4 ,i think you will find it quite easy to count the crosses from the diagrams given1 and the best way to make sure of getting the peacocks nicely even in the corners1 like they are in the picture1 is to count the number of open squares1 from the corners of the diagrams to the commencement of the designs1 and allow three threads for each square on your canvas4 ,for instance1 taking the peacock on the left of your cloth1 you will need to start on the sixteenth square up from the lower hemstitched border1 and one square to the right of the side border4 ,illustration3 ,here is the ,peacock with his tail drooping4 ,remember1 if you start the first cross right and work your crosses evenly1 the design must come out even2 all you have to do is to see that you don't go over more than three threads of canvas for each cross4 ,this design would look very well on a cushion4 ,in that case1 the cushion cover could be made of serge1 or of crash1 or of linen4 ,crash is very easy to work on1 and washes well4 ,if the material is so fine that it tries your eyes to count the threads1 then it is easy to tack ,penelope canvas over the material1 and work the cross-stitches on this1 drawing the canvas threads out when the work is finished4 ,some ,pretty ,bead-work4 ,there are very few little girls--or big ones either--who are not fond of beads4 ,there is something so fascinating1 isn't there1 in seeing what pretty things we can make by threading them4 ,and there are so many lovely ways in which you can use beads4 ,illustration3 ,,green ,,venetian ,,and ,,small ,,crystal ,,beads4 ,you see the picture on page #ih1 showing four little rows of beads4 ,well1 each is a section of a pretty chain1 either of which any little girl could make4 ,the top one is made of tiny metal beads and shell beads4 ,there are #ab tiny beads1 then #c shell beads1 all the way along4 ,the next chain shows beads of four different sizes1 some dark and some light4 ,this is part of a lovely1 long muff chain4 ,just below is another chain1 which is a very simple arrangement1 being simply #ab metal beads1 then #a ordinary coral bead4 ,the bottom chain of the little group is made of small1 dull blue beads--#bd are threaded1 then #b little pink ones1 next #a deep coloured pearl bead1 #b pink1 #bd blue1 and so on4 ,illustration3 ,,of ,,small ,,pale ,,blue ,,and ,,pearl ,,beads4 ,the picture above shows a pretty necklace made on #b threads4 ,you thread the tiny beads on single threads1 then when you come to a larger bead1 you put both threads through the same bead4 ,the #e very big beads are green ,venetian beads1 and look so pretty4 ,another necklace worked on #b threads is also shown4 ,the beads here are pale blue1 with a small pearl here and there4 ,both threads are put through the same beads1 until you come to the front part4 ,there they are divided1 and more put on the lower thread1 to make the little loops1 then both are threaded through the same bead again4 ,this is done #g times1 to make #g loops1 then for the remainder all the beads are threaded on #b threads4 ,illustration3 ,,four ,,simple ,,bead ,,chains4 ,the upper picture on page #ii shows sections of #c chains made of small beads4 ,these are made on a bead loom4 ,on these looms you can make lovely things1 and the beads to use are ,venetian ,iridescent1 ,cut ,tosca1 or ,no4 #h ,cut ,metal4 ,the work is very easy1 and is done as follows3-- ,always cut one more warp thread than the number of beads to be used in width1 for instance1 if the width of work is to be #f bead wide cut #g threads4 ,also in making necklaces cut the thread several inches longer1 so as to prevent joining and to allow for the fastening on of the snap4 ,illustration3 ,,chains ,,made ,,on ,a ,,loom4 ,after cutting threads1 commence to tie all threads together at one end1 fix this on the nail on the spool and then place each of the threads in rotation on the notches of bridge1 carrying the threads to the opposite bridge4 ,then place the threads in same rotation on the second bridge2 now draw the threads tight and with the remains of length tie on round the end of loom and fix in and around the pegs4 ,this is called the warp4 ,you now get your thread for threading the beads1 and tie the end at the first or left-hand warp1 thread the same number of beads in the way you want the first row made1 and push them up between the warps1 and repeat this again and again until the design is finished4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,bead ,,loom4 ,pretty ,things in ,woolwork4 ,have you ever burnt your finger8 ,if so1 you know just what it is like1 and you don't want me to tell you how it feels6 ,when you have once had a burn or a scald1 you are very careful not to get another if you can help it1 and you won't want anyone else to burn themselves1 ,i know4 ,has ,grandmamma a kettle holder8 ,she certainly ought to have one1 because it is really a nasty thing to pick up a hot kettle without a holder4 ,you just want to drop it at once6 ,suppose you start right away to make a kettle holder4 ,i mean a really pretty one1 of course1 that will be delightful to look at1 as well as useful4 ,illustration3 ,here is a pretty ,kettle ,holder4 ,it hangs up by the loop at the top4 ,here is a lovely chance for you to do some ,berlin ,woolwork4 ,this is done on ,penelope ,canvas4 ,you have already learnt to work cross-stitch designs on ,penelope ,canvas1 haven't you8 so you have not so very much that is fresh to learn here4 ,when you did the work before1 however1 you pulled the threads away afterwards1 but here you do not pull any away1 but you cover the whole of the canvas square with some pretty pattern4 ,it may be alternate rows of two colours1 or it may be a little square pattern1 or it can be the 8upstairs and downstairs0 pattern that you see in the kettle holder on this page4 ,the easiest kind of kettle holder to start with would be one like the mat on page #ajc--;in green and purple--working a row of green crosses1 and then a row of purple crosses4 ,when you are working several crosses in a row1 you do not finish each cross before going on to the next4 ,you make the halves of the crosses all one way1 and then go back and cross them all4 ,you will see what ,i mean by the top illustration in the picture on this page1 showing the stitches4 ,you will want some ,penelope ,canvas1 and some purple and some green ,berlin wool--,j4 and ,j4 ,baldwin's ,english-made ,berlin wool is the kind to get1 as we all like to buy things that are made in ,england1 don't we8 ,you also need a piece of thick serge or cloth to line the kettle holder1 and a pretty cord to finish the edge4 ,to start the kettle holder1 take a piece of canvas1 about #g inches each way4 ,before you commence the pattern1 thread your needle with wool1 and take over-and-over stitches all round the edge to keep the canvas from fraying out while you are doing the pretty work4 ,now1 starting half an inch in1 work the cross-stitch1 first doing a row of purple and then a row of green1 leaving half an inch all round the edge4 ,this will give you a worked square1 #f inches by #f inches4 ,illustration3 ,,how ,,the ,,stitches ,,are ,,done4 ,having finished the cross-stitch1 turn in the edge all round as far as the work1 and tack it4 ,take your piece of cloth1 turn in and tack the edge of that all round to the same size as the kettle holder4 ,place them together with the wrong sides facing1 and hem the lining to the holder1 not letting the stitches show through on the right side4 ,the only thing to be done now is to sew the cord to the edge4 ,this finishes the kettle holder very prettily1 and at one corner it can be twisted up to make a loop to hang the holder up by1 as you see in the picture on page #ajj4 ,do you see the little piece worked in squares at the bottom of the picture on page #aja4 ,this is a lovely design for a kettle holder4 ,you see nine crosses are worked in light wool and nine in dark wool alternately4 ,illustration3 ,,berlin ,,wool ,,work ,,on ,a ,,bag4 ,the 8upstairs and downstairs0 pattern is just a little bit more difficult1 but even this only requires careful counting4 ,you start in the top left-hand corner1 and work six crosses in a row4 ,then take four downwards1 then four more in a row with the last one down1 then four more down1 and so on4 ,when you have worked from one corner to the other in this way1 you start filling in the space at each side of that diagonal line1 working two rows in each colour4 ,light and dark green would look very pretty for this4 ,the kettle holder worked in this design is shown hanging cornerwise1 but of course it has to be worked straight1 as in third specimen in the picture on page #aja4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,mat ,,for ,a ,,hot ,,water ,,jug4 ,there is another thing that ,grandma would find very useful1 and that is a mat to stand on the table for her hot water-jug4 ,you can make this in the same way as the kettle holder1 with just two little differences4 ,when the work on the front is finished1 turn the canvas on the wrong side over a piece of cardboard before tacking it4 ,then line it with a strong piece of sateen4 ,the cardboard keeps it firm1 and it will then be quite a useful mat to stand the jug on4 ,then you do not make a loop to hang it up1 as you did the kettle holder1 but you simply finish the edge with a straight piece of cord4 ,if you have a thicker wool1 or use the wool doubled1 you can work the design in half crosses only1 that is to say1 just take a half stitch and do not cross it4 ,you will see what ,i mean by the second little specimen in the picture on page #aja4 ,does ,grandma knit8 ,if she does she will need a strong bag to keep her work in1 as steel knitting needles have an aggravating way of poking their heads through the corners of a bag that is not very strong4 ,you will see how to make a bag on page #aa1 and a way to make it extra strong is to work a strip of ,berlin wool-work and sew it to the bottom of the bag1 so that when you join up the seams of the bag1 you sew in the strip of wool-work at the same time4 ,isn't that a sweet bag on page #ajb4 ,this is made of pretty grey material1 and the work at the bottom is done in several lovely colours1 purple1 green1 black1 yellow and white1 and you would hardly believe how lovely they all look blended together4 ,the ribbons to draw up the bag1 and the feather-stitching1 are of a beautiful purple colour4 ,preparing for ,visitors4 ,we've been so busy all this week1 ,spring-cleaning ,dolly's rooms4 ,we've shaken carpets1 scrubbed the floors1 ,we've cleaned the walls1 and rubbed the doors1 ,with dusters1 pails1 and brooms4 ,we've made new curtains and new mats1 ,a carpet for her feet1 ,a bedspread fit for any queen1 ,a hearthrug worked in pink and green-- ,it all looks very sweet4 ,you see1 when ,cousin ,mabel comes ,and brings her doll1 ,rose ,gerty1 ,it would be shocking if she found ,a speck of dust upon the ground1 ,or thought our doll's house dirty6 ,f4 ,k4 ,a ,butterfly ,pincushion4 ,this cushion case can be made of white ,hardanger ,canvas and embroidered with ,j4 ,j4 ,baldwin's ,beehive ,shetland ,wool in a blue shade1 but you must first make a little calico case and stuff it with bran1 then the embroidered case can be taken off and cleaned when it gets dirty4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,butterfly ,,design ,,for ,,counting ,,the ,,crosses4 ,cut two squares of calico #d inches wide each way1 run them together along three of the sides then turn the little square bag you have made inside out1 and stuff it with bran4 ,when you have put in as much bran as you can possibly manage to squeeze into the bag1 turn the edges of the open side in and oversew them together4 ,now cut two squares of canvas the same size as you cut the two calico squares1 for the case4 ,the butterfly and the border are worked in cross-stitch4 ,this stitch was described on page #bf4 ,illustration3 ,the ,cord gives the ,pincushion a pretty finish4 ,make your first row of crosses #h threads in from the edge of the square1 going over three threads of canvas for each cross and leaving three threads between each4 ,then put the second row of crosses above the open spaces of the first row4 ,a cross is then added at each corner three threads in from the border4 ,to get the butterfly right in the centre of the square1 count the crosses on the design and place the centre cross of the butterfly even with the centre cross of the border each way4 ,now sew your two squares of canvas together along three of the edges on the wrong side1 taking a seam of four threads of canvas4 ,turn on to the right side1 pull the case over the stuffed cushion1 and oversew the edges of the fourth side together4 ,illustration ,finish the cushion with blue cord1 making a loop at each corner2 the cord should be hemmed on along the seam all round4 ,the oversewn seam can be opened a little way and the ends of the cord tucked in and sewn securely to make a neat finish4 ,three-quarters of a yard of cord will be sufficient to go round the cushion4 ,this little butterfly would also look very pretty on a cushion for ,dolly's chair or couch1 and you could make the cushion in exactly the same way as the pincushion1 only you would not need to stuff it so full1 but leave it loose and soft for ,dolly's head4 ,or1 if you can knit1 you could knit her a woollen bedspread1 using ,j4 ,j4 ,baldwin's #d-ply ,beehive ,fingering4 ,knit it in plain garter stitch1 the length and width you require4 ,then work a cross-stitch border all round1 and the butterfly in the centre4 ,it is easy to work cross-stitch on plain knitting4 ,the ,farmyard ,curtain4 ,isn't this a pretty curtain8 ,it has quite a farmyard of animals on it4 ,first1 there is the stately cock2 then two rabbits1 one running along and one sitting down2 and then quite a group of ducks and ducklings4 ,perhaps if you were to ask mother1 she would let you make some like it for your own bedroom4 ,cream ,congress canvas was used to make the curtain1 and it was lined with sateen of the same shade4 ,the animals and border are worked in green 8,star ,sylko0 thread1 ,no4 #e1 ,shade #ged4 ,the curtain in the picture is about #ah inches wide and #ba inches deep1 but you would1 of course1 make it the right size for your own window4 ,first cut your canvas to the size required1 allowing about #f threads of canvas extra all round for turnings4 ,turn in a single turning of #f threads all round and tack securely4 ,illustration3 ,the curtain looks like this when it hangs at the window4 ,working the ,border4 ,now look carefully at the border and see how this is done4 ,you have an illustration showing how to make the various stitches used4 ,you first work slanting up-and-down stitches all along the side edges and across the bottom of the curtain1 going over #d threads of canvas4 ,commencing from the top of the right side edge of the curtain1 count #d threads from the top edge1 and put your needle up through the hole right on the edge2 go over #d threads to the right and #d threads up1 put your needle in and pick up #h threads2 make a slanting stitch back again down to the edge of the canvas1 and put your needle into the hole you first brought it out of1 pick up #h threads along the edge1 and repeat this up and down all the way round three sides of the curtain4 ,i think the little picture will best show you how this is done2 you will see that two slanting stitches meet at the corner4 ,in picking up the lower threads only take up the single canvas1 so that no stitches will be shown at the edge on the other side4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,corner ,,showing ,,the ,,border4 ,now to complete the edge1 buttonhole stitches are worked around4 ,directions for making buttonhole stitch are given on page #f4 ,one stitch is placed at each point of the slanting stitches1 putting your needle down through the fold of the edge of the curtain4 ,how this should look can be seen in the second specimen in the illustration of the stitches4 ,you will notice that three stitches are made into the one hole at the corner4 ,you have now to work the rows of stars around to finish the border4 ,these are worked as shown in the third specimen in your illustration of stitches4 ,all the stitches of the star start from the centre hole1 the four long stitches being worked over four threads of the canvas1 and the four short stitches over #b2 one thread of canvas is left between each star4 ,there should also be four threads left between the points of the first row of stars and the stitches round the edge of the curtain4 ,one row of stars is worked all round1 a second row and a row of half stars being added across the bottom4 ,illustration3 ,,showing ,,some ,,of ,,the ,,stitches ,,used ,,on ,,the ,,curtain4 ,the ,animals4 ,the animals are worked in cross-stitch1 going over #b threads of canvas for each cross4 ,if you are not quite sure how to work cross-stitch1 you can find out by looking at page #bf4 ,you will be able to count the crosses from the diagrams given4 ,of course1 if your curtain is to be much larger than this one1 you will have to leave more space between each animal4 ,also1 you might like to make your curtain of some other material instead of the canvas1 and if you are using a plain material1 without even threads to count1 you can first tack ,penelope canvas where you want your animals1 and work over this1 pulling the threads of canvas away after1 as you see explained on page #bg4 ,for instance1 the curtain would look quite nice made of unbleached calico in this way4 ,you have a set of pictures on page #aaa1 showing the animals worked over ,penelope canvas1 and these will help you1 if you are using calico1 or casement cloth for your curtain4 ,illustration ,illustration ,illustration ,illustration3 ,from these diagrams you can easily count the crosses for the animals4 ,the pictures on this page show the animals worked over ,penelope ,canvas4 ,you would do them this way if you make your curtain of sateen or unbleached calico4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,you can see that this is the ,swimming ,duck4 ,on the left is the ,cock4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,this is the ,running ,rabbit4 ,the one on the left prefers to sit still4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,here are the ,duck and ,duckling4 ,on the left is the ,duckling flapping his wings4 ,lining the ,curtain4 ,you now cut out a piece of sateen exactly the same size as you cut the canvas1 turn in a narrow single turning1 and tack the sateen to the wrong side of the curtain4 ,the stitch used for sewing the lining to the curtain is shown at the bottom of your illustration of stitches4 ,in working this1 you hold a strand of your embroidery thread along just in from the edge of your work1 and sew over this1 with small slanting stitches1 putting your needle in just above the line of thread1 and bringing it out just underneath4 ,the coloured thread is used for this2 a white thread is used in the specimen1 just to show you how the stitches should look4 ,illustration ,when you are doing this part of the work1 be careful that you do not take your stitches through to the right side of the curtain1 but only pick up the turned-in edge of the canvas with the sateen4 ,sew #g bone curtain rings to the top of curtain at even distances apart1 and the curtain is complete4 ,illustration ,you will need two curtains1 or even three1 if your window is a very wide one4 ,but each curtain is made in exactly the same way4 ,and when they are finished1 you will be very proud of your needle-work ,i am sure4 ,and all your friends will be able to see it1 without any showing1 every time they come into your room4 ,index4 ,,page ,alphabet1 ,a ,cross-stitch #eb1 #ec ,amiable ,pussy ,cats1 ,the #dg ,apron1 ,a ,handy ,work #c ,backstitching #hh ,bag1 ,the ,orchid ,flower ,stocking #ej ,bag1 ,a ,knitting #ajb ,bag1 ,the ,lambkin #aa ,bag1 ,making a ,macram #dc ,band1 ,putting ,gathers into a #d ,bead ,work #ig ,bed1 ,for ,dolly's #ee ,bedspread for ,victoria1 ,a #ga ,berlin ,wool ,work #ajj ,binding ,seams #eh ,blanket ,stitch #eh ,butterfly ,pincushion1 ,a #aje ,buttonhole1 ,making a #f ,button1 ,how to ,sew on a #hh ,carpets and ,hearthrugs #gf ,cats on a ,chair ,back #bi ,cats1 ,the ,amiable ,pussy #dg ,cloth1 ,a ,peacock #ie ,chain ,stitch #ge ,chair ,back1 ,cats on a #bi ,cosy ,cover1 ,making a #dg ,cottage ,window1 ,for ,dolly's #gd ,covering ,squares for ,patchwork #fd ,cross-stitch ,alphabet1 ,a #eb1 #ec ,cross-stitch over ,penelope ,canvas1 ,how to ,work #bf ,cross-stitch on ,hardanger ,canvas1 ,how to ,work #ie ,cross-stitch1 ,a ,feeder in #be ,cross-stitch ,designs #ab1 #af1 #bg1 #cb1 #dh1 #ea1 #ie1 #aje1 #aaj ,curtain1 ,the ,farmyard #ajg ,cutting ,out your ,doll's ,clothes #hc ,doll's ,clothes1 ,cutting ,out your #hc ,dolly1 ,a ,frock and ,coat for #ij ,dolly's ,underwear1 ,making #he ,double ,featherstitching #bc ,draw-strings in a ,bag1 ,threading #ac ,dressmaking #df ,easy-to-,make ,pinafore1 ,an #ag ,farmyard ,curtain1 ,the #ajg ,featherstitching #e ,featherstitching1 ,double #bc ,feeder in ,cross-stitch1 ,a #be ,for ,dolly's ,bed #ee ,for ,dolly's ,cottage ,window #gd ,for the ,new ,perambulator #fg ,for ,ribbons and ,bows #h ,french ,knots #ia ,french ,seam1 ,a #hh ,frock and ,coat for ,dolly1 ,a #ij ,gathering #d ,gathers into a ,band1 ,putting #d ,handkerchief ,sachet1 ,a ,hardanger #cd ,handy ,work ,apron1 ,a #c ,hardanger ,handkerchief ,sachet1 ,a #cd ,hardanger ,corners #da ,hairpin ,work #dd ,hearthrugs1 ,carpets and #gf ,hemming #ah ,hemstitching #cj ,herring-boning #hh ,housewife1 ,a ,red ,satin #bb ,invalid1 ,the #ad ,just ,think #ff ,kettle ,holder1 ,a #ajj ,knitting ,bag1 ,a #ajb ,ladder ,hemstitching #cj ,lambkin ,bag1 ,the #aa ,macram ,bag1 ,making a #dc ,mattress1 ,making a ,doll's #ee ,mat for a ,hot-water ,jug1 ,a #ajc ,mitre a ,corner1 ,how to #fe ,mitring a ,corner for ,hemstitching #ca ,night-dress ,pocket1 ,the ,swallow #ae ,night-dress ,case1 ,making a ,doll's #fa ,orchid ,flower ,bag1 ,the #ej ,ostrich and the ,silkworm1 ,the #ha ,outline ,stitch1 ,an #eh ,oversewing #bh ,pale ,blue and ,heliotrope #dc ,patchwork ,quilt1 ,a #fc ,peacock ,cloth1 ,a #ie ,perambulator1 ,for the ,new #fg ,pillow1 ,making a ,doll's #ei ,pinafore1 ,an ,easy-to-make #ag ,pincushion1 ,a ,butterfly #aje ,pink ,sunbonnet1 ,the #bj ,pleats1 ,making #ah ,poems #aj1 #ad1 #df1 #di1 #gc1 #ha1 #ajd ,preparing for ,visitors #ajd ,pretty ,things in ,woolwork #ajj ,putting ,gathers into a ,band #e ,putting ,pleats into a ,band #ah ,quilt1 ,a ,patchwork #fc ,red ,satin ,housewife1 ,a #bb ,ribbons and ,bows1 ,for #h ,run and ,fell ,seam1 ,a #hh ,running #hh ,rug-making #gf ,satin ,stitch #ga ,serpentine ,hemstitching #cj ,staple ,work #dd ,stocking ,bag1 ,a #ej ,stroking #d ,such an ,advantage #aj ,sunbonnet1 ,the ,pink #bj ,swallow ,nightdress ,pocket1 ,the #ae ,things in ,woolwork #ajj ,threading ,draw-strings in a ,bag #ac ,tucks #ah ,two ,dollies1 ,the #gc ,underwear1 ,making ,dolly's #he ,what a ,contrast #di ,whipping #eh ,woolwork1 ,pretty ,things in #ajj ,work ,apron1 ,a ,handy #c ,printed for the ,proprietors of 8,,the ,,girl',s ,,own ,,paper ,,woman',s ,,magazine10 by ,,curtis ,,beamish1 ,,ltd41 ,,coventry1 ,,england4 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's ,notes3 ,obvious punctuation errors repaired4 ,text uses both 8,brighteye0 and 8,bright-eye40 ,this and other varied hyphenation was retained4 ,page #ba1 8her's0 changed to 8hers0 7like hers1 only just7 ,page #ib1 8embrodiery0 changed to 8embroidery0 7with embroidery thread7 ,page #ih1 8,iridiscent0 changed to 8,iridescent0 7,venetian ,iridescent1 ,cut ,tosca1 or7 ,page #aji1 8,o0 changed to 8,of0 7,of course1 if your curtain7 ,page #aac1 8,macram0 changed to 8,macram0 to match usage in text 7,bag1 ,making a ,macram7 ,page #aad1 8,macram0 changed to 8,macram0 to match usage in text 7,macram ,bag1 ,making a7