,,joseph ,,pennell',s ,,pictures ,,of ,,the ,,panama ,,canal ,,fourth ,,edition ,,joseph ,,pennell',s ,,pictures ,,of ,,the ,,panama ,,canal ,,reproductions ,,of ,a ,,series ,,of ,,lithographs ,,made ,,by ,,him ,,on ,,the ,,isthmus ,,of ,,panama1 ,,january--,,march1 #aiab1 ,,together ,,with ,,impressions ,,and ,,notes ,,by ,,the ,,artist ,illustration3 ,decorative image4 ,,philadelphia ,,and ,,london ,j4 ,b4 ,,lippincott ,,company #aiac ,,copyright1 #aiab1 ,,by ,,joseph ,,pennell ,,published1 ,,september1 #aiab ,,printed ,,by ,j4 ,b4 ,,lippincott ,,company ,,at ,,the ,,washington ,,square ,,press ,,philadelphia1 ,u4,s4,a4 ,,to ,j4 ,b4 ,,bishop ,,secretary ,,of ,,the ,,isthmian ,,canal ,,commission ,,who ,,made ,,it ,,possible ,,for ,,me ,,to ,,draw ,,these ,,lithographs ,,and ,,who ,,was ,,also ,,good ,,enough ,,to ,,accede ,,to ,,my ,,request ,,and ,,read ,,and ,,correct ,,the ,,proofs ,,for ,,me ,,introduction--,,my ,,lithographs ,,of ,,the ,,panama ,,canal ,the idea of going to ,panama to make lithographs of the ,canal was mine4 ,i suggested it1 and the ,century ,magazine and ,illustrated ,london ,news offered to print some of the drawings ,i might make4 ,though ,i suggested the scheme a couple of years ago1 it was not until ,january1 #aiab1 that ,i was able to go--and then ,i was afraid it was too late--afraid the work was finished and that there would be nothing to see1 for photographs taken a year or eighteen months before1 showed some of the locks built and their gates partly in place4 ,still ,i started1 and after nearly three weeks of voyaging found1 one ,january morning1 the ,isthmus of ,panama ahead of the steamer1 a mountainous country1 showing deep valleys filled with mist1 like snow fields1 as ,i have often seen them from ,montepulciano looking over ,lake ,thrasymene1 in ,italy4 ,beyond were higher peaks1 strange yet familiar1 ,japanese prints1 and as we came into the harbor the near hills and distant mountains were silhouetted with ,japanese trees and even the houses were ,japanese1 and when we at length landed1 the town was full of character reminiscent of ,spain1 yet the local character came out in the ,cathedral1 the tower of which--a pyramid--was covered with a shimmering1 glittering mosaic of pearl oyster shells4 ,the people1 not ,americans1 were primitive1 and the children1 mostly as in ,spain1 were not bothered with clothes4 ,i followed my instinct1 which took me at once to the great swamp near the town of ,mount ,hope1 where so many of ,de ,lesseps' plans lie buried4 ,here are locomotives1 dredges1 lock-gates1 huge bulks of iron1 great wheels1 nameless1 shapeless masses--half under water1 half covered with vines--the end of a great work4 ,i came back to ,colon by the side of the ,french ,canal1 completed and working up to1 ,i believe1 ,gatun ,lock and ,dam1 and spent the afternoon in the ,american town1 every house ,japanese in feeling1 ,french or ,american in construction1 screened with black wire gauze1 divided by white wood lines--most decorative--and all shaded by a forest of palms4 ,through these wandered well-made roads1 and on them were walking and driving well-made ,americans4 ,there were no mosquitoes1 no flies1 no smells1 none of the usual adjuncts of a tropical town4 ,at the end of the town was a monument1 a nondescript ,columbus1 facing nowhere1 at his feet an ,indian2 but it seemed to me1 if any monument was wanted at ,colon1 it should be a great light-house or a great statue towering aloft in the harbor1 a memorial to the men who1 ,french and ,american1 have made the ,canal4 ,next day ,i started across the ,continent to ,panama1 for ,i learned the ,government headquarters were there1 and1 until ,i had seen the officials1 ,i did not know if ,i should be allowed to work or even stay on the ,isthmus4 ,but at ,gatun ,i got off the train1 determining to do all ,i could before ,i was stopped--as ,i was quite sure ,i should be4 ,i saw the tops of the locks only a few hundred yards away1 and1 turning my back on the stunning town piled up on the hillside1 walked over to them2 from a bridge bearing a sign that all who used it did so at their own risk ,i looked down into a yawning gulf stretching to right and left1 the bottom filled with crowds of tiny men and tiny trains--all in a maze of work2 to the right the gulf reached to a lake1 to the left to mighty gates which mounted from the bottom to my feet4 ,overhead1 huge iron buckets flew to and fro1 great cranes raised or lowered huge masses of material4 ,as ,i looked1 a bell rang1 the men dropped their tools1 and lines of little figures marched away1 or climbed wooden stairs and iron ladders to the surface4 ,the engines whistled1 the buckets paused1 everything stopped instantly1 save that from the depths a long chain came quickly up1 and clinging to the end of it1 as ,cellini would have grouped them1 were a dozen men--a living design--the most decorative motive ,i have ever seen in the ,wonder of ,work4 ,i could not have imagined it1 and in all the time ,i was on the ,isthmus ,i never saw it but once again4 ,for a second only they were posed1 and then the huge crane swung the group to ground and the design fell to pieces as they dropped off4 ,across the bridge was a telephone station and beyond and below it the great approaches to the locks along which electric locomotives will draw the ships that pass through4 ,there was a subject1 and ,i tackled it at once4 ,in the distance the already filling lake--among islands1 but the highland still above the water1 dotting it1 crowned with palms and strange trees2 dredgers slowly moved1 native canoes paddled rapidly1 over all hovered great birds4 ,to the right was the long line of the ,french ,canal1 almost submerged1 stretching to the distance1 against which1 blue and misty and flat1 were strange-shaped mountains1 outlined with strange-shaped trees4 ,bridges like those of ,hiroshigi connected island with island or with the mainland4 ,it was perfect1 the apotheosis of the ,wonder of ,work1 and as ,i looked the whole rocked as with an earthquake--and then another4 ,i was dragged into the hut as showers of stones rattled on the roof as blast after blast went off near by4 ,soon people in authority came up--,i supposed to stop me2 instead it was only to show pleasure that ,i found their work worth drawing4 ,these men were all ,americans1 all so proud of their part in the ,canal1 and so strong and healthy--most of them trained and educated1 ,i knew as soon as they opened their mouths--the greatest contrast to the crowd on the steamer1 who now were all tamely following a guide and listening to what they could neither understand nor see during their only day ashore4 ,these engineers and workmen are the sort of ,americans worth knowing1 and yet ,i did not see any golf links at ,gatun4 ,the day was spent in that telephone box and on the ,spillway of the ,dam--a semicircle of cyclopean concrete1 backed by a bridge finer than ,hokusai ever imagined1 yet built to carry the huge engines that drag the long trains of dirt and rock across it1 to make the dam4 ,the dam1 to me1 was too big and too vague to draw4 ,and all this is the work of my countrymen1 and they are so proud of their work4 ,yet the men who have done this great work will tell you that we owe much to the ,french1 and that if the engineers and the ,commission at ,panama had not the ,government1 with unlimited men and money1 behind them1 and the discoveries in sanitary science of which the ,french were ignorant1 we1 too1 would have failed4 ,they tell you1 and show you how1 the ,french worked on the ,canal right across the ,isthmus1 and we are carrying out the great project they were unable to complete4 ,and we have won the admiration of the world4 ,the sanitary problem is solved1 but they tell you under the ,french1 fever carried off a man for every tie that was laid on the ,panama ,railroad4 ,this is a legend1 but a true story is1 that the ,french cared so little for their lives that with every shipload of machinery came boxes of champagne1 and those who received them asked their friends to dinner--finished the bottles--and were buried in the empty box in the morning4 ,now there is no fever in the ,canal ,zone1 but there is plenty of drink in and outside of it1 but1 ,i am told1 indulged in with wonderful moderation4 ,i certainly never saw an ,american under the influence of it4 ,in the evening a ride of two hours took me over the thirty miles to ,panama--one of the last passengers over the old line of the ,panama ,railway1 now buried under the waters of the growing lake4 ,from the railroad ,i saw for the first time the primeval forest1 the tropical jungle1 which ,i had never believed in1 never believed that it could not be penetrated save with an axe or a machete2 but it is so1 and the richness of it1 the riot of it1 the variety of it1 is incredible and endless4 ,the train puffed along1 in that time-taking fashion of the tropics ,i should soon be familiar with1 passing points of view ,i made notes of1 for first impressions are for me always the best1 and one trip like this gives me more ideas than days of personal pointing out4 ,finally ,panama was reached in the dark2 all ,i saw was a great hill lit up with rows of lights1 one above the other1 in the night4 ,the day had not been hot1 the sky was not blue or black--it was white1 and filled with white clouds1 though they were dark against it4 ,there was no glare--and ,i had forgotten my sketching umbrella2 but ,i never needed it4 ,so far as ,i know1 there is always a breeze--it is never really hot in the day--and as soon as the sun sets the trade wind rises--if it has not been blowing all day--and ,i could always sleep at night4 ,it is all so unlike other hot countries--but1 then1 ,panama is unlike other places3 the sun rises and sets in the ,pacific1 and the city of ,panama1 though on the ,pacific1 is east of ,colon1 on the ,atlantic4 ,there was not a smell1 or a mosquito1 or a fly on ,ancon ,hill1 but over it all was the odor of petroleum1 with which the streams and marshes of the whole zone are sprayed almost daily2 and this has made the ,canal and saved the workers4 ,next morning ,i went to the ,administration ,building and presented my letters1 though ,i did not know if ,i should be allowed to draw4 ,but it seemed that everything had been arranged for me by the ,commission1 who1 it also seemed1 had been doing nothing for weeks but waiting my coming4 ,i was clothed1 fed1 taken about in motor cars and steam launches1 given passes on the railroad1 and finally turned loose to go where ,i wanted and draw what ,i liked--and if anything happened or did not happen ,i was just to telephone to headquarters4 ,the following day1 donning my khaki1 which ,i wore only once1 and pocketing my pass and some oranges1 ,i started for the locks at ,pedro ,miguel--pronounced1 in ,american1 ,peter ,megil1 just as ,miraflores is called ,millflowers4 ,we were all down1 had breakfast1 and off in the train--a jim-crow one--before the sun was up1 and at ,pedro ,miguel station ,i found myself one of a horde of niggers1 ,greeks1 ,hindoos1 ,slovaks1 ,spaniards1 ,americans and engineers1 bound for the lock1 half a mile away4 ,here ,i went down to the bottom to get a drawing of the great walls that lead up to the great gates1 now nearly finished4 ,i had come at exactly the right time4 ,these walls are surmounted with great arches and buttresses--the most decorative subject1 the most stupendous motive ,i have ever seen--almost too great to draw4 ,unlike my experiences of a lifetime at other ,government works1 ,i was asked for no permit4 ,i was allowed to go where ,i wanted1 draw what ,i liked2 when any attention was paid to me1 it was to ask what ,i was working for--give me a glass of ice water--precious1 out of the breeze at the bottom of a lock--offer to get me a photograph or make one1 to suggest points of view1 or tell me to clear out when a blast was to be fired4 ,and the interest of these ,americans in my work and in their work was something ,i had never seen before4 ,a man in huge boots1 overalls and ragged shirt1 an apology for a hat1 his sleeves up to his shoulders1 proved himself in a minute a graduate of a great school of engineering1 and proved as well his understanding of the importance of the work ,i was trying to do1 and his regret that most painters could not see the splendid motives all about2 and the greatest compliment ,i ever received came from one of these men1 who told me my drawings would work4 ,day after day it was the same--everything1 including government hotels and labor trains1 open to me4 ,the only things to look out for were the blasts1 the slips of dirt in the cut1 and the trains1 which rushed and switched about without any reference to those who might get in front of them4 ,if one got run over1 as was not usual2 or blown up1 which was unusual2 or malaria1 which few escaped among the workmen1 there were plenty of hospitals1 lots of nurses and sufficient doctors4 ,each railroad switch was attended by a little darkey with a big flag2 of one of whom it was said he was seen to be asleep1 with his head on the rails one day4 ,the engineer of an approaching dirt train actually pulled up1 and he was kicked awake and asked why he was taking a nap there4 ,the boy replied he was 'termined no train go by1 boss1 widout me knowin' it2 and of another who1 awaking suddenly and seeing half a train past his switch1 pulled it open and wrecked all the trains1 tracks and switches within a quarter of a mile2 or the third1 a ,jamaican1 a new hand1 who1 being told he was not to let a train go by1 promptly signalled a locomotive to come on1 and when he was hauled up1 smilingly said3 ,dat wan't no train wat yer tole me to stop2 dat's a enjine4 ,drawing had other interesting episodes connected with it1 as when ,i sat at work in ,culebra ,cut the leading man of a file of niggers1 carrying on his head a wooden box1 would approach1 stop beside me and look at the drawing4 ,as ,i happened to look up ,i would notice the box was labelled1 ,explosives1 ,highly dangerous4 ,then1 with his hands in his pockets1 he and the rest of the gang would stumble along over the half-laid ties1 slippery boulders and through the mud1 trying to avoid the endless trains and balance the boxes on their heads at the same time4 ,i must say1 when ,i read the legend on the box the sensation was peculiar4 ,they tell you1 too1 that when ,president ,taft came down to the ,cut all dynamiting gangs were ordered out2 but one gang of blacks was forgotten1 and as the train with the ,president and ,colonel ,goethals in it passed1 the leader cheered so hard that he dropped his box1 which somehow didn't go off4 ,it was interesting1 too1 when one had been working steadily for some time1 to find oneself surrounded1 on getting up1 by little flags1 to announce that the whole place had been mined and should not be approached2 or to find oneself entangled in a network of live wires ready to touch off the blasts from hundreds of yards away1 and to remember that ,i was behind a boulder about to be blown to pieces1 and might be overlooked2 or to be told ,i had better get out1 as they were ready to blast1 after a white man had got done chucking from one rock1 to a black man on another1 sticks of melanite1 as the easiest way of getting them to him2 or ramming in1 with long poles1 charges so big that trains1 steam shovels and tracks had to be moved to keep them from being shot up4 ,i always kept out of the way as far as possible after the day at ,bas ,obispo when1 standing some hundreds of yards from a blast watching the effect of showers of rocks falling like shells in the river1 ,i heard wild yells1 and1 looking up1 saw a rock as big as a foot-ball sailing toward me4 ,i have heard one can see shells coming and dodge them4 ,i know now that this is so1 though ,i had to drop everything and roll to do it4 ,but ,i don't like it2 and accidents do happen1 and there are hospitals all across the ,isthmus with men1 to whom accidents have happened1 in them4 ,but nothing happened to me4 ,i did not get malaria or fever1 or bitten or run over4 ,i was very well all the time--and ,i walked in the sun and worked in the sun1 and sat in the swamps and the bottoms of locks and at the edge of the dam1 and nothing but drawings happened2 but ,i should not advise others to try these things1 nor to get too near steam shovels1 which pick up anything1 from an elephant to a red-bug1 but sometimes drop a ton rock2 nor play around near track-lifters and dirt-train emptiers--for the things are small respecters of persons4 ,but most people do not get hurt1 and ,i never met anyone who wanted to leave2 and ,i believe the threat to send the men home broke the only strike on the ,canal4 ,i did not go to ,panama to study engineering--which ,i know nothing about2 or social problems--which ,i had not time to master2 or ,central ,american politics--which we are in for2 but to draw the ,canal as it is1 and the drawings are done4 ,i was there at the psychological moment1 and am glad ,i went4 ,it is not my business to answer the question3 ,when will the ,canal be opened8--though they say it will be open within a year4 ,will the dam stand8 ,those who have built it say so4 ,which is better1 a sea level or a lock8 ,the lock canal is built4 ,i did not bother myself about these things1 nor about lengths and breadths and heights and depths4 ,i went to see and draw the ,canal1 and during all the time ,i was there ,i was afforded every facility for seeing the construction of the ,panama ,canal1 and from my point of view it is the most wonderful thing in the world2 and ,i have tried to express this in my drawings at the moment before it was opened1 for when it is opened1 and the water turned in1 half the amazing masses of masonry will be beneath the waters on one side and filled in with earth on the other1 and the picturesqueness will have vanished4 ,the ,culebra ,cut will be finer1 and from great steamers passing through the gorge1 worth going #ae1jjj miles1 as ,i have done1 to see4 ,but ,i saw it at the right time1 and have tried to show what ,i saw4 ,and it is ,american--the work of my countrymen4 ,,joseph ,,pennell ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations ,,the ,,illustrations ,,begin ,,with ,,colon ,,and ,,proceed ,,in ,,regular ,,sequence ,,across ,,the ,,isthmus ,,to ,,panama4 ,i ,,colon3 ,,the ,,american ,,quarter ,,ii ,,mount ,,hope ,,iii ,,gatun3 ,,dinner ,,time ,,iv ,,at ,,the ,,bottom ,,of ,,gatun ,,lock ,v ,,the ,,guard ,,gate1 ,,gatun ,,vi ,,approaches ,,to ,,gatun ,,lock ,,vii ,,end ,,of ,,the ,,day3 ,,gatun ,,lock ,,viii ,,the ,,jungle3 ,,the ,,old ,,railroad ,,from ,,the ,,new ,,ix ,,the ,,native ,,village ,x ,,the ,,american ,,village ,,xi ,,the ,,cut ,,at ,,bas ,,obispo ,,xii ,,in ,,the ,,cut ,,at ,,las ,,cascadas ,,xiii ,,the ,,cut ,,from ,,culebra ,,xiv ,,steam ,,shovel ,,at ,,work ,,in ,,the ,,culebra ,,cut ,,xv ,,the ,,cut3 ,,looking ,,toward ,,culebra ,,xvi ,,the ,,cut ,,at ,,paraiso ,,xvii ,,the ,,cut ,,looking ,,toward ,,ancon ,,hill ,,xviii ,,laying ,,the ,,floor ,,of ,,pedro ,,miguel ,,lock ,,xix ,,the ,,gates ,,of ,,pedro ,,miguel ,,xx ,,the ,,walls ,,of ,,pedro ,,miguel ,,xxi ,,building ,,miraflores ,,lock ,,xxii ,,cranes3 ,,miraflores ,,lock ,,xxiii ,,walls ,,of ,,miraflores ,,lock ,,xxiv ,,official ,,ancon ,,xxv ,,from ,,ancon ,,hill ,,xxvi ,,the ,,cathedral1 ,,panama ,,xxvii ,,the ,,city ,,of ,,panama ,,from ,,the ,,tivoli ,,hotel1 ,,ancon ,,xxviii ,,the ,,mouth ,,of ,,the ,,canal ,,from ,,the ,,sea ,i ,,colon3 ,,the ,,american ,,quarter ,the city of ,colon is divided into two quarters--the native1 or ,panamanian1 and the ,american4 ,the former is picturesque1 but has nothing to do with the ,canal and is some distance from it4 ,the ,canal cannot be seen from the city4 ,the ,american quarter1 in which the ,canal employees live1 stands on the sea shore1 and is made up of bungalows1 shops1 hotels1 hospitals--all that goes to make up a city--save saloons4 ,all are built of wood1 painted white1 and completely screened with wire gauze1 rusted black by the dampness1 a protection from mosquitoes and other beasts1 bugs and vermin4 ,raised on concrete supports mostly with long1 gently sloping roofs1 and buried in a forest of palms1 the town1 the first the visitor will see1 seems absolutely ,japanese1 is very pictorial and full of character4 ,the design1 ,i believe1 of the houses was made by the ,american engineers or architects4 ,very few of the higher ,canal officers live at ,colon1 which is the ,atlantic seaport of the ,isthmus1 the eastern mouth of the ,canal1 though ,colon is west of ,panama--such is the geography of the country4 ,the mouth of the ,canal will be fortified2 breakwaters and light-houses are being built4 ,for authorities on fortification it may be interesting to state that the forts will be so situated that the locks will be completely out of range of an enemy's guns4 ,personally ,i am not a believer in wars or navies4 ,if my theories were practised there would be no need for fortifications4 ,illustration ,,ii ,,mount ,,hope ,near ,mount ,hope1 which--for the ,french--should be called the ,slough of ,despond1 or the ,lake of ,despair1 is a huge swamp about a mile or so from ,colon1 on the left bank of the ,french ,canal1 seen on the right of the lithograph4 ,this swamp is now filled with all sorts of abandoned ,french machinery4 ,dredges1 locomotives1 and even what seem to be lock gates1 show amid the palms in the distance4 ,huge ,american cranes for raising this ,french material--which the ,american engineers have made use of--and discharging cargo from the ships in the ,french ,canal--which is here finished and in use--loom over the swamp1 the banks of which are lined with piers and workshops full of life--a curious contrast to the dead swamp in which not a mosquito lives1 nor a smell breathes4 ,illustration ,,iii ,,gatun3 ,,dinner ,,time ,between ,mount ,hope and ,gatun is much more of the swamp and much more abandoned machinery1 but the ,canal is not to be seen from the railroad1 or any evidence of it1 till the train stops at the station of ,old ,gatun1 with its workmen's dwellings crowning the hillside4 ,i regret ,i made no drawing of these1 so picturesquely perched4 ,at the station of ,gatun--the first time ,i stopped--,i saw the workmen--in decorative fashion--coming to the surface for dinner4 ,the lithograph was made from a temporary bridge spanning the locks and looking toward ,colon4 ,the great machines on each side of the locks are for mixing and carrying to their place1 in huge buckets1 the cement and concrete1 of which the locks are built4 ,the ,french ,canal is in the extreme distance1 now used by our engineers4 ,illustration ,,iv ,,at ,,the ,,bottom ,,of ,,gatun ,,lock ,there is a flight of three double locks at ,gatun by which ships will be raised eighty-five feet to the level of ,gatun ,lake4 ,from the gates of the upper lock--the nearest to the ,pacific--they will sail across the now-forming lake some miles 7about twenty1 ,i believe7 to the ,culebra ,cut2 through this1 nine miles long1 they will pass1 and then descend by three other flights of locks1 at ,pedro ,miguel and ,miraflores1 to the ,pacific1 which is twenty feet higher1 ,i believe1 than the ,atlantic4 ,the great height1 eighty-five feet1 was agreed upon so as to save excavation in the ,cut and time in completion--one of those magnificent labor-saving devices of the moment--which ,i1 not being an engineer1 see no necessity for--having waited four hundred years for the ,canal1 we might1 as an outsider1 it seems to me1 have waited four more years and got rid of a number of the locks1 even if it cost more money4 ,the lithograph made in the middle lock shows the gates towering on either side4 ,these gates were covered1 when ,i made the drawing1 with their armor plates4 ,the lower parts1 ,i was told1 are to be filled with air1 and the gates1 worked by electricity1 will virtually float4 ,the scaffolding is only temporary1 and so is the opening at the bottom and the railroad tracks1 which were filled up and discarded while ,i was there4 ,so huge are the locks--the three1 ,i think1 a mile long1 each one thousand feet between the gates1 and about ninety feet deep--that1 until the men knock off1 there scarce seems anyone around4 ,illustration ,v ,,the ,,guard ,,gate1 ,,gatun ,there is a safety gate in each lock1 to protect1 in case of accident1 the main lock gate1 just suggested1 with the figures working at the armor-plate facing1 on the extreme right4 ,beyond are the outer walls and approaches of the upper lock1 and beyond these1 but unseen1 the lake4 ,at the bottom is the railroad and the temporary opening shown in the previous drawing4 ,the scale1 the immensity of the whole may be judged by the size of the engines and figures4 ,i have never seen such a magnificent arrangement of line1 light and mass1 and yet those were the last things the engineers thought of4 ,but great work is great art1 and always was and will be4 ,this is the ,wonder of ,work4 ,illustration ,,vi ,,approaches ,,to ,,gatun ,,lock ,these huge arches1 only made as arches to save concrete and to break the waves of the lake1 are mightier than any ,roman aqueduct1 and more pictorial1 yet soon they will be hidden almost to the top by the waters of the lake4 ,electric locomotives will run out to the farthest point1 and from it1 tow the ships into the lock4 ,beyond is ,gatun ,lake1 and to the right the lines of the ,french ,canal and ,chagres ,river stretch to the horizon4 ,even while ,i was on the ,isthmus the river and canal disappeared forever before the waters of the rapidly rising flood4 ,all evidence of the ,french work beyond ,gatun has vanished under water4 ,i did not draw the ,dam or the ,spillway simply because ,i could not find a subject to draw1 or could not draw it4 ,illustration ,,vii ,,end ,,of ,,the ,,day--,,gatun ,,lock ,this was another subject ,i saw as the men stopped work in the evening4 ,on the left is the stairway which most of them use1 and on both sides are iron ladders which a few climb4 ,the semicircular openings are for mooring the ships4 ,illustration ,,viii ,,the ,,jungle ,,the ,,old ,,railroad ,,from ,,the ,,new ,while ,i was on the ,isthmus the old line from ,gatun to the ,culebra ,cut at ,bas ,obispo was abandoned1 owing to the rising waters of the lake1 which will soon cover towns1 and swamps1 and hills1 and forests4 ,this drawing was made looking across the lake near ,gatun1 with the dam in the distance1 and ,i have tried to show the rich riot of the jungle4 ,below1 on the old road1 is a steam shovel digging dirt4 ,the little islands1 charming in line1 are little hills still showing above the waters of the forming lake4 ,illustration ,,ix ,,the ,,native ,,village ,this lithograph was made on the new line1 which discovered to the visitor primitive ,panama1 its swamps1 jungles and native villages2 but1 owing to ,colonel ,gorgas1 native no longer1 as they are odorless and clean2 but the natives1 with their transformation1 seem to prefer to the palm-leaf roof1 corrugated iron and tin1 and abandoned freight cars to live in4 ,the huts are mostly built on piles near the rivers4 ,in the background can be seen the strange-shaped mountains and strange-shaped trees4 ,the white tree--,i don't know its name--with the bushy top has no bark1 and is not dead1 but puts out leaves1 ,mrs4 ,colonel ,gaillard tells me1 in summer2 and she also tells me the jungle is full of the most wonderful orchids1 birds1 snakes1 monkeys and natives1 and offered to take me to see them4 ,i saw her splendid collection of orchids at ,culebra1 through the luxuriance of which ,colonel ,gaillard says he has to hew his way with a machete every morning to breakfast1 so fast do plants grow on the ,isthmus4 ,advantage of this rapidity of jungle growth has been taken to bind together the completed parts of the surface of the dam1 which are covered with so much vegetation that ,i could not tell ,nature's work from that of the engineers4 ,illustration ,x ,,the ,,american ,,village ,these are scattered all across the ,continent1 hemmed in by the tropical jungle or placed on the high1 cool hill4 ,in all there is1 first1 the news-stand at the station2 then1 the hotel--really restaurants--where on one side the ,americans gold employees dine for thirty cents1 better than they could for a dollar at home--and more decently2 men1 women and children4 ,on the other1 in a separate building1 usually1 the silver employees foreigners2 and there are separate dining and sleeping places and cars for negroes1 even on workmen's trains4 ,the ,indian has the sense and pride to live his own life down there1 apart1 as at home in ,india4 ,there are many in the ,zone4 ,the head men in each of these towns have their own houses2 the lesser lights share double ones2 and ,i believe the least of all1 bunks2 but these matters didn't interest me1 nor did sanitary conditions or social evils or advantages4 ,there are also clubs1 ,i believe1 social centres1 mothers' meetings1 churches1 art galleries and museums on the ,isthmus1 but ,i never saw them4 ,i was after picturesqueness4 ,still1 it is no wonder1 under present conditions1 that ,i never found a man who wanted to go home--and some hadn't been home for seven years1 and dreaded going--and rightly4 ,the ,canal ,zone is the best governed section of the ,united ,states4 ,illustration ,,xi ,,the ,,cut ,,at ,,bas ,,obispo ,the ,culebra ,cut commences near ,bas ,obispo--from this place--where the ,chagres ,river enters ,gatun ,lake1 the cut extends for nine miles1 to ,pedro ,miguel4 ,all between here and ,gatun will be under water4 ,the drawing was made at the bottom of the cut1 and the various levels on which the excavations are made may be seen4 ,the dirt trains1 one above the other1 are loading up from the steam shovels on each side of the old river bed in the centre4 ,the machinery for shifting tracks and unloading trains is wonderful1 but not very picturesque4 ,illustration ,,xii ,,in ,,the ,,cut ,,at ,,las ,,cascadas ,this drawing shows the cut and gives from above some idea of the different levels on which the work is carried out4 ,it is on some of these levels that slides have occurred and wrecked the work4 ,the slides move slowly1 not like avalanches1 but have caused endless complications2 but ,colonel ,gaillard1 the engineer in charge1 believes he will triumph over all his difficulties--which include even a small volcano--there is a newspaper story--but no earthquakes4 ,illustration ,,xiii ,,the ,,cut ,,from ,,culebra ,at this point the cut is far the deepest at the continental divide1 and here the ,french did their greatest work1 and here this is recorded by the ,united ,states on a placque high up on the left-hand bare mountain face of ,gold ,hill4 ,the drawing was made looking towards ,pedro ,miguel4 ,illustration ,,xiv ,,steam ,,shovel ,,at ,,work ,,in ,,the ,,culebra ,,cut ,this beast1 as they say down there1 can pick up anything from an elephant to a red-bug--the smallest thing on the ,isthmus4 ,they also say the shovel would look just like ,teddy if it only had glasses4 ,it does the work of digging the ,canal and filling the trains1 and does it amazingly--under the amazing direction of its amazing crews4 ,illustration ,,xv ,,the ,,cut--,,looking ,,toward ,,culebra ,this is the most pictorial as well as the most profound part of the cut4 ,culebra1 the town1 is high above--some of it has fallen in--on the edge in the distance--on the left4 ,the white tower is an observatory from near which the lithograph ,no4 ,,xiii of the cut was made4 ,the drawing is looking toward the ,atlantic4 ,the engineer of the dirt train--the smoke of which is so black because the engines burn oil--climbed up to see what ,i was at1 and incidentally told me he was paid #c1fjj a year1 had a house free and two months' holiday4 ,it is scarcely wonderful he has little interest in home1 but the greatest pride in our canal1 and his only hope was to be kept on the job and run an electric locomotive for the rest of his life4 ,illustration ,,xvi ,,the ,,cut ,,at ,,paraiso ,at this point the old railroad crosses the ,canal bed1 and there is a splendid view in both directions4 ,this is looking toward the same mountains as in the previous drawing1 early in the morning4 ,the mountains are covered with long lines of mist1 under which nestles the ,american-,japanese town of ,paraiso4 ,the new line of railroad never crosses the ,canal1 but passes behind the mountain on the right4 ,the scheme of having it follow the ,canal through ,culebra ,cut has been abandoned1 owing to the slides4 ,illustration ,,xvii ,,the ,,cut ,,looking ,,toward ,,ancon ,,hill ,this is the view toward the ,pacific from the same spot in the full stress of work4 ,the ,pedro ,miguel locks are in the distance1 beyond is ,ancon ,hill1 dominating ,panama1 miles farther on2 and to the right1 between the hills1 but miles still farther1 beyond ,miraflores lock1 the ,pacific4 ,illustration ,,xviii ,,laying ,,the ,,floor ,,of ,,pedro ,,miguel ,,lock ,this is the most monumental piece of work on the ,canal1 and the most pictorial4 ,the huge approaches1 quite different in form from ,gatun--for all the locks have character1 and the character of their builders--are only arches to save concrete4 ,here were men enough laying the concrete floor--others swarming over the gates not yet covered with their armor plate4 ,beyond is the lock just shown between the gates4 ,illustration ,,xix ,,the ,,gates ,,of ,,pedro ,,miguel ,this is the same lock nearer the gates1 and shows the great length of it from gate to gate and something of its building and construction1 from my point of view4 ,illustration ,,xx ,,the ,,walls ,,of ,,pedro ,,miguel ,this was drawn from the opposite end of the lock and the great side walls topped with their concrete-making crenellations and cranes are seen4 ,in the foreground1 on the left1 is one of the side openings for emptying the water from one lock to another--for all the locks are double1 side by side1 and ships will not have to wait until a lock is empty1 as is usual1 before they can enter1 but1 as one empties1 the same water partly fills the one beside it1 and so steamers will pass without waiting4 ,two or three small vessels can go through at the same time1 as well as the largest with room to spare4 ,illustration ,,xxi ,,building ,,miraflores ,,lock ,this lock1 the nearest the ,pacific1 is again quite different and is the work of a civil engineer1 ,mr4 ,williamson1 and not of army officers1 like the rest4 ,between the two forces1 ,i believe1 the most fierce harmony exists4 ,the drawing shows the two locks side by side1 the great cranes--they are different1 too--towering above4 ,all the ground here will be filled by a small lake between this lock and ,pedro ,miguel4 ,illustration ,,xxii ,,cranes--,,miraflores ,,lock ,these great cranes travel to and fro1 and as ,i drew the nearest ,i found the lines changing1 but thought there was something wrong with me4 ,so huge were they1 and so silently and solemnly did they move1 that ,i could not believe they were moving4 ,this is the ,pacific end of the lock--the last on the ,canal4 ,illustration ,,xxiii ,,walls ,,of ,,miraflores ,,lock ,the only wall in ,march of the approach to ,miraflores may be contrasted with the similar subject ,no4 ,,xx--,pedro ,miguel4 ,much as there was to be done in ,march1 the engineer1 ,mr4 ,williamson1 had no doubt it would be finished this fall2 for as fast as the other locks were completed1 men and machines were to be put on this4 ,illustration ,,xxiv ,,official ,,ancon ,amid these royal palm groves work and live many of the members of the ,isthmian ,canal ,commission--the rest are on the high hill at ,culebra4 ,to the secretary1 ,mr4 ,j4 ,b4 ,bishop1 and to his family1 ,i am endlessly indebted for endless help while on the ,zone4 ,ancon is a perfect ,japanese town--built by ,americans--and the interiors of the houses here and at ,culebra are as delightful as their owners are charming--and ,i know of what ,i speak4 ,the large building against the ocean is the ,administration ,office of the ,isthmian ,canal ,commission4 ,illustration ,,xxv ,,from ,,ancon ,,hill ,a road winds up ,ancon ,hill1 passing the official residences and the hospitals1 finally reaching a terrace bordered with royal palms4 ,below to the left is the ,tivoli ,hotel1 and still lower and farther away1 the city1 while the ,pacific fills the distance4 ,this is the most beautiful spot ,i saw on the ,isthmus4 ,illustration ,,xxvi ,,the ,,cathedral1 ,,panama ,the ,cathedral1 one of a number of churches in the city of ,panama1 stands in a large square4 ,the feeling of all these1 with their richly decorated faades and long1 unbroken side walls1 is absolutely ,spanish--but the interiors are far more bare--much more like ,italian churches4 ,illustration ,,xxvii ,,the ,,city ,,of ,,panama ,,from ,,the ,,tivoli ,,hotel1 ,,ancon ,from the wing of the ,government hotel in which ,i stayed ,i looked out over the city of ,panama to the ,pacific4 ,if this city were in ,spain1 or if even a decent description of it were in a ,european guide-book1 the hordes of ,americans who go to the ,canal would rave over it4 ,as it is1 not many of them 7not being told7 ever see it1 though there are few towns in ,europe with more character4 ,but ,i regret to say my countrymen don't know what they are looking at1 or what to look at1 till they have a guide-book1 courier or tout to tell them4 ,the ,government provides1 ,i am told1 a ,harvard graduate to perform the latter function1 and sends out daily an observation car across the ,continent4 ,the two strange1 flat-topped mountains1 miles out at sea1 are to be fortified1 and they are so far from shore1 and the locks so far inland1 as to be out of range--as well as out of sight--of modern guns and gunners4 ,illustration ,,xxviii ,,the ,,mouth ,,of ,,the ,,canal ,,from ,,the ,,sea ,this drawing was made from the channel which leads out to the ,pacific ,ocean4 ,the mouth of the ,canal is on the left in the flat space between the mountains2 on the right of this1 the dark mass on the edge of the water is the docks and harbors2 then comes the great1 towering ,ancon ,hill1 one side all dug out in terraces for dirt1 much of which goes to fill in the outside of locks1 which1 however1 will work before they are filled in4 ,and for what other purposes the ,war ,department are going to use this ,gibraltar they alone know4 ,the other side1 a mass of palms shelters the houses of the officials1 and at the foot of the hill1 to the right1 ,panama--as beautiful as ,naples or ,tangier1 yet hardly a tourist knows it2 and--well1 the ,government is not running a tourist agency4 ,the breakwater1 which will connect the fortified islands miles away with the mainland1 is just started in the centre4 ,this is the first and last view of ,panama--and of the greatest work of modern times1 the work of the greatest engineers of all time4 ,,joseph ,,pennell ,illustration ,life of ,james ,mc,neill ,whistler ,,by ,,elizabeth ,r4 ,,and ,,joseph ,,pennell ,the ,pennells have thoroughly revised the material in their ,authorized ,life and added much new matter1 which for lack of space they were unable to incorporate in the elaborate two-volume edition now out of print4 ,fully illustrated with #if plates reproduced from ,whistler's works1 more than half reproduced for first time4 ,crown #hvo41 fifth and revised edition4 ,whistler binding1 deckle edge4 #c4ej net4 ,three quarters grain levant1 #g4ej net4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,transcriber's ,note3 ,minor typographical errors have been corrected without note4 ,duplicated section headings have been omitted4 ,italicized words are surrounded by underline characters1 like this4 indicates a caption added by the transcriber4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------------