,,block+ ,,ma*9e 8,,c>re ,,vive ,,bro*i]0 ,illu/ration ,inv5tors & ,mak]s ( o!r special adju/+1 dress+ & press+ ma*9es & accessories = ! manufacture ( ,,/raw ,,boat]s ( p]fect & correct %ape ,,soci,t ,,anonyme ,,des ,,etablissem5ts ,j4 ,b4 ,,bro*i]1 #h ,rue de la ,viab]t1 ,,lyon ,,com=t ,,9 ,,hats ,among/ ! alli$ trades associat$ ) ! ,/raw ,hat ,indu/ry mu/ be includ$ ! production ( ! ,pneumatic or ,easy-,fitt+ ,sweats or ,lea!rs1 :i* dur+ ! la/ #be ye>s h be5 ! *ief means ( e/abli%+ ! ,/raw ,boat] z ! mo/ popul> ,summ] ,head-we>4 ,,! ,,hat ,,manufactur]s' ,,supply ,,co41 ,,ltd41 ( ,/ockport1 ,engl&1 make claim to be ! produc]s ( ! be/ ( ^! k9d1 & _m ( _! pat5t productions h a place 9 ! ,hi/ory ( ! ,/raw ,hat ,indu/ry2 ! foll[+ h /ood out prom95tly3 8,,ivy0 & 8,,m>vel10 b app>5tly ! z5i? 0 rea*$ ) ! production ( ! ,_w-fam$-- ,pat5t 8,,bon-,,ton ,,ivy0 ,?is pat5t ,com=t ,lea!r is ackn[l$g$ z ! 8,,l&m>k0 9 ,head-com=t = any ,hat4 ,& consid]ably ov] tw5ty millions h be5 sold = ,/raw ,hats alone1 :i* fact mu/ und\bt$ly prove t ?is ,lea!r has be5 greatly in/rum5tal 9 aid+ ! progress ( ! ,/raw ,boat]2 s mu* s1 t ! ,pat5tees h appo9t$ manufactur+ ag5ts 9 v>i\s p>ts ( ! ,_w to cope ) ! increas+ dem&4 ,! late/ production 9 ^! ,easy-fitt+ ,lea!rs is !-- 7,pat5t7 8,,new ,,bon-,,ton ,,ivy0 7introduc$ #aiba7 :i* is suitable = any k9d ( hats &1 l its well-kn[n p>5t pat5t1 gu>antees ,p]fect ,fit1 ,com=t1 & ,v5tilation4 ,x is wor? be>+ 9 m9d t all g5u9e 8,bon-,ton ,ivy0 lea!rs h adju/able ,ela/ic ,fitt+1 also see "n ,/amp on ! lea!r4 ,pat5tees & ,sole ,manufactur]s1 at ! ,,headqu>t]s ,,= ,,hatt]s' ,,specialities4 ,gold ,pr9t]s1 etc4 ,,! ,,hat ,,manufactur]s ,,supply ,co41 ,ltd4 ,,pretoria ,,works1 ,,/ockport1 ,,engl& ,samples on ,application4 ,tlphone3 ,no4 #hbi ,tlgrammes3 ,,burgiss]1 ,,flor5ce 99 99 99 99 99 ,soc4 ,an4 ,burgiss] 99 99 99 99 99 ,,italian ,milans & ,fancy ,braids ,m5's & ,ladies' ,leghorns ,fancy ,bodies ,novelties ,,blea*+ & ,,dye+ ,,flor5ce ,,via ,,masaccio #adi ,,sole ,,repres5tatives-- ,e4 ,t4 ,,raban ,,sons #c-f ,au/ralian ,av5ue1 ,london1 ,e4,c4#a ,,e/abli%$ ,,ov] #ajj ,,ye>s ,b5jam9 ,b5nett ,,ltd4 ,manufactur]s ( ,ladies' & ,*ildr5's ,hats1 ,trimm$ & ,untrimm$--,vel\rs1 ,felts1 ,/raws1 & ,fancies1 also all k9ds ( ,/rawbo>d & ,lea!rbo>d ,boxes 99 99 99 99 99 ,factories3 ,connaught ,h\se1 ,upp] ,george ,/reet1 ,luton #ag #bb ,high ,/reet1 ,dun/able ,%[rooms ,(fices3 #fa ,george ,/reet1 ,luton ,telegrams3 ,beebee ,luton ,telephones3 ,luton #iba 7#b l9es72 ,dun/able #c ,illu/ration ,h4 ,,godfrey ,,co4 ,,eng9e]s ,,to ,,! ,,hat ,,trade ,mak]s ( ! ,ke/on ,block+ ,ma*9es #ad;a ,,/u>t ,,/reet1 ,,luton ,! ,london ,v>ni% & ,enamel ,co41 ,ltd4 ,successors to ,conrad ,wm4 ,s*midt 7,f4 ,a4 ,glaes]71 ,ltd4 ,city ,works ,c>p5t]s ,road1 ,/rat=d ,london1 ,e4#ae1 ,engl& ,illu/ration ,,! ,,orig9al ,,& ,,l>ge/ ----,,manufactur]s ,,(---- ,,/raw ,,hat ,,poli%es ,,9 ,,all ,,col\rs ,,luton ,illu/ration3 ,,trade ,,m>k ,,br& ,^! ,_s ,hat ,poli%es 7 introduc$ 9 #ahgh & h be5 ext5sively us$ ev] s9ce 9 ,luton1 ,london1 & all ,hat ,mak+ ,c5tres ?r\gh\t ----! ,_w---- ,a4,b4,c4 ,,code #d? & #e? ,,edition ,,us$ ,,cable ,,address3 8,,lov>namel1 ,,london0 ,h4 ,spratley 7,late ,h4 ,,spratley ,,son7 #af1 #ah #bj ,b>b]'s ,lane1 ,luton ,illu/ration ,! ,olde/ ,e/abli%$ ,firm 9 ! ,trade = ! mak+ ( ,ladies'1 ,g5t's1 & ,*ildr5's ,%apes = ,/raws & ,felts 9 ,wood1 ,pla/]1 ,iron1 ,spelt] & ,alum9ium ,pans & ,di%es4 ,all ,accessories = ! ,trade ,! ,not$ ,blockmak] = ,high-,class ,"w ,tel4 #ggh ,,e/abli%$ #ahff ,coll+ ,company ,,proprietor3 ,,*as ,f4 ,,coll+ ,illu/ration ,pla9 & ,fancy ,silk1 ,sat9 & ,cotton ,goods 99 99 99 99 99 ,manufactur]s ( all k9ds ( ,hat ,l9+s #ci ,k+ ,/reet1 ,luton ,,telegrams3 8,,coll+1 ,,k+ ,,/41 ,,luton0 ,,telephone3 ,,luton #ag ,,pitman',s ,,common ,,commodities ,,& ,,indu/ries ,,s]ies ,ea* book 9 cr[n #hvo1 illu/rat$1 #c_/- net ,,tea4 ,by ,a4 ,ibbetson ,,c(fee4 ,by ,b4 ,b4 ,keable ,,sug>4 ,by ,geo4 ,m>t9eau ,,oils4 ,by ,c4 ,a9swor? ,mit*ell ,,:eat4 ,by ,&rew ,mill> ,,rubb]4 ,by ,c4 ,beadle & ,h4 ,p4 ,/ev5s ,,iron ,,& ,,/eel4 ,by ,c4 ,hood ,,copp]4 ,by ,h4 ,k4 ,pic>d ,,coal4 ,by ,f4 ,h4 ,wilson ,,timb]4 ,by ,w4 ,bullock ,,cotton4 ,by ,r4 ,j4 ,peake ,,silk4 ,by ,lu!r ,hoop] ,,wool4 ,by ,j4 ,a4 ,hunt] ,,l954 ,by ,alfr$ ,s4 ,moore ,,tobacco4 ,by ,a4 ,e4 ,tann] ,,lea!r4 ,by ,k4 ,j4 ,adcock ,,knitt$ ,,fabrics4 ,by ,j4 ,*amb]la9 & ,j4 ,h4 ,quilt] ,,clays4 ,by ,alfr$ ,s4 ,se>le ,,pap]4 ,by ,h>ry ,a4 ,maddox ,,soap4 ,by ,w4 ,a4 ,simmons ,,! ,,motor ,,indu/ry4 ,by ,horace ,wyatt ,,glass4 ,by ,p]cival ,m>son ,,gums ,,& ,,res9s4 ,by ,e4 ,j4 ,p>ry ,,! ,,boot ,,& ,,%oe ,,indu/ry4 ,by ,j4 ,s4 ,h>d+ ,,gas4 ,by ,w4 ,h4 ,y4 ,webb] ,,furniture4 ,by ,h4 ,e4 ,b9/ead ,,coal ,,t>4 ,by ,a4 ,r4 ,w>nes ,,petroleum4 ,by ,a4 ,lidgett ,,salt4 ,by ,a4 ,f4 ,calv]t ,,z9c4 ,by ,t4 ,e4 ,lones ,,photography4 ,by ,wm4 ,gamble ,,asbe/os4 ,by ,a4 ,l4 ,summ]s ,,silv]4 ,by ,b5jam9 ,:ite ,,c>pets4 ,by ,reg9ald ,s4 ,br9ton ,,pa9ts ,,& ,,v>ni%es4 ,by ,a4 ,s4 ,j5n+s ,,cordage ,,& ,,cordage ,,hemp4 ,by ,t4 ,woodh\se & ,p4 ,kilg\r ,,acids ,,& ,,alkalis4 ,by ,g4 ,h4 ,j4 ,adlam ,,electricity4 ,by ,r4 ,e4 ,neale ,,alum9ium4 ,by ,g4 ,mortim] ,,gold4 ,by ,b5jam9 ,:ite ,,butt] ,,& ,,*eese4 ,by ,c4 ,w4 ,walk]-,tisdale & ,jean ,jones ,,! ,,briti% ,,corn ,,trade4 ,by ,a4 ,b>k] ,,lead4 ,by ,j4 ,a4 ,smy! ,,engrav+4 ,by ,t4 ,w4 ,lascelles ,,/ones ,,& ,,qu>ries4 ,by ,j4 ,all5 ,h[e ,,explosives4 ,by ,s4 ,i4 ,levy ,,! ,,clo?+ ,,indu/ry4 ,by ,b4 ,w4 ,poole ,,telegraphy1 ,,telephony1 ,,& ,,wireless4 ,by ,j4 ,poole ,,p]fum]y4 ,by ,e4 ,j4 ,p>ry ,,! ,,electric ,,lamp ,,indu/ry4 ,by ,g4 ,arncliffe ,p]cival ,,ice ,,& ,,cold ,,/orage4 ,by ,b4 ,h4 ,spr+ett ,,gloves4 ,by ,b4 ,e4 ,ellis ,,jute4 ,by ,t4 ,woodh\se & ,p4 ,kilg\r ,,drugs ,,9 ,,comm]ce4 ,by ,j4 ,humphrey ,,! ,,film ,,indu/ry4 ,by ,davidson ,b\ghey ,,cycle ,,indu/ry4 ,by ,w4 ,grew ,,sulphur4 ,by ,h>old ,a4 ,aud5 ,,textile ,,blea*+4 ,by ,alec ,b4 ,/ev5 ,,w9e4 ,by ,&re ,l4 ,simon ,,ironf\nd+4 ,by ,b4 ,:iteley ,,cotton ,,sp9n+4 ,by ,a4 ,s4 ,wade ,,alcohol4 ,by ,c4 ,simmonds ,,concrete ,,& ,,re9=c$ ,,concrete4 ,by ,w4 ,n4 ,twelvetrees ,,sponges4 ,by ,e4 ,j4 ,j4 ,cresswell ,,wall ,,pap]4 ,by ,g4 ,:iteley ,w>d ,,clocks ,,& ,,wat*es4 ,by ,g4 ,l4 ,ov]ton ,,an?racite4 ,by ,a4 ,l4 ,summ]s ,,inc&esc5t ,,light+4 ,by ,s4 ,i4 ,levy ,,! ,,fi%+ ,,indu/ry4 ,by ,w4 ,e4 ,gibbs ,,oil ,,= ,,p[] ,,purposes4 ,by ,s4 ,h4 ,nor? ,,/>*4 ,by ,h4 ,a4 ,aud5 ,,talk+ ,,ma*9es4 ,by ,o4 ,mit*ell ,,nickel4 ,by ,b4 ,h4 ,:ite ,,play] ,,piano4 ,by ,d4 ,m4 ,wilson ,,int]nal ,,combu/ion ,,eng9es4 ,by ,j4 ,okill ,,dyes4 ,by ,a4 ,j4 ,hall ,,motor ,,boats4 ,by ,f4 ,/rickl& ,,velvet4 ,by ,j4 ,h4 ,cooke ,,! ,,/raw ,,hat ,,indu/ry4 ,by ,h4 ,inw>ds ,,bru%es4 ,by ,w4 ,kiddi] ,,pat5t ,,fuels4 ,by ,j4 ,a4 ,gre5e & ,f4 ,mollwo ,p]k9 ,,furs4 ,by ,j4 ,c4 ,sa*s ,,/raw ,,hats ,always lead+ = ,/yle & ,quality ,frank ,h>d51 ,ltd4 ,manufactur]s ( ,,ladies' ,,hats ( all descriptions ,,:olesale ,,& ,,%ipp+ ,,only ,illu/ration #eh-fb ,bute ,/reet ,luton ,illu/ration3 ,model z worn #be-cj ye>s ago ,,manufactur$ ,,by ,,frank ,,h>d5 ,illu/rat$3 ,model z worn #aibb season ,,manufactur$ ,,by ,,frank ,,h>d51 ,,ltd4 ,telegrams3 ,h>d51 ,luton ,codes3 ,m>coni & ,a4,b4,c4 #e? edition ,illu/ration3 ,,f9i%+1 ,,l9+ ,,& ,,trimm+ ,,/raw ,,hats ,frontispiece ,,pitman',s ,,common ,,commodities ,,& ,,indu/ries ,,/raw ,,hats ,,_! ,,hi/ory ,,& ,,manufacture ,,by ,,h>ry ,,inw>ds ,,ex-,,presid5t ,,luton ,,*amb] ,,( ,,comm]ce ,illu/ration ,,london ,,sir ,,isaac ,,pitman ,,sons1 ,,ltd4 ,,p>k] ,,/reet1 ,,k+sway1 ,w4,c4#b ,,ba?1 ,,melb\rne1 ,,toronto1 ,,new ,,york ,,pr9t$ ,,9 ,,ba?1 ,,engl& ,,by ,,sir ,,isaac ,,pitman ,,& ,,sons1 ,,ltd4 ,,to ,,my ,,wife ,,emily ,,inw>ds ,a ,,lov+ ,,tribute ,cable ,address3 ,codes3 ,a ,b ,c 7#d?1 #e? #f? ,editions7 8,att5tion1 ,luton40 ,a#a1 ,b5tley's1 ,m>coni ,h5ry ,durl] & ,son1 ,ltd4 99 99 99 99 99 ,import]s1 ,export]s1 ,blea*]s ,dy]s 99 99 99 99 99 ( all k9ds ( ,*9ese & ,japanese ,/raw ,plaits = ,hat ,manufacture 99 99 99 99 99 ,luton1 ,b$=d%ire ,,engl& ,,=eword ,x w be notic$ ?r\gh\t ?is book t ! au?or has deviat$ f ! diction>y me?ods ( spell+ words illu/rative ( ! action ( plait4 ,! ,ox=d ,diction>y reads-- 8,plait 7pleit1 ploet1 plit7 444 see also plat40 8,plat4 ,to =m hats1 etc41 is n[ a less usual spell+ ?an plait40 8,plat-t+1 ! action ( plat40 ,nuttall gives ! pronunciation ( plait z plate1 & t ( ! action ^w plait$ z plat$4 ,9 ! di/rict :]e ! manufacture is suffici5tly anci5t to h e/abli%$ a claim to its regul> pronunciation1 plait1 z x is inv>iably spelt1 has always be5 pron\nc$ plat1 & ! action words plat-t]1 plat-t$1 & plat-t+4 ,t ?is is n a local solecism ( pronunciation is prov$ by ! r5d]+s giv5 "u ! head+s plat & platt+ 9 ! ,ox=d ,diction>y1 & fur!r1 a lit]>y & anci5t example c be f\nd 9 8,a ,lov]'s ,compla9t10 :]e ,%akespe>e speaks ( 8a plat-t$ hive40 ,! au?or ?9ks x is "t "s def9ite me?od1 9 prop] accord ) ! cu/om ( ! indu/ry1 %\ld be adopt$1 & he proposes a prec$5t1 :i* he claims to be well f\nd$ & s5sible1 viz41 to cont9ue to use ! ^w plait 7pron\nc$ plat7 z ! sub/antive1 & to e/abli% ! spell+ plait-t]1 plait-t$ & plait-t+ z designations ( ! action words prop]ly int]pret+ ! univ]sal pronunciation4 ,i %\ld l to express grateful ?anks = assi/ance & in=mation giv5 me 9 ! c\rse ( my "w1 to ,messrs4 ,murry ,b>=d 7,mayor ( ,luton71 ( ,b>=d ,sons1 ,luton2 ,p]cy ,currant1 ( ,currant ,creak1 ,luton2 ,h5ry ,george ,drap]1 ( ,wal% ,sons1 ,luton2 ,george ,field1 ( ,luton2 ,h5ry ,gregory1 ( ,gregory ,sons1 ,b>bican1 ,london1 ,e4,c42 ,*>les ,hubb>d1 ( ,luton2 ,?omas ,mann1 ( ,vyse ,sons ,co41 ,luton2 ,james ,saund]s1 ,f4,l4,s41 ( ,saund]s ,son1 ,luton2 ,frank ,e4 ,%oosmi?1 ( ,luton2 ,john ,irv+ ,wright1 ,j4,p41 ( ,luton2 all ( :om h intimate k ( ! /raw trade & its ma*9]y2 & to ,mr4 ,t4 ,maw1 ,libr>ian ,luton ,public ,libr>y4 ,! help ( ^! g5tlem5 has mat]ially add$ to ! correctness ( _m details1 ( :i* my k 0 unc]ta94 ,,h>ry ,,inw>ds ,luton4 #ca/ ,m>*1 #aibb4 ,,cont5ts ,,*ap4 ,,page ,,=eword vii ,i4 ,,orig9 ,,& ,,classical ,,hi/ory #a ,,ii4 ,,comm]cial ,,rise ,,& ,,gr[? #ac ,,iii4 ,,/raw ,,plait--,,me?od ,,( ,,prep>+ ,,! ,,/raws #be ,,iv4 ,,/raw ,,hoods--,,me?od ,,( ,,prep>+ ,,& ,,( ,,weav+ ,,! ,,fibres #ce ,v4 ,,/raw ,,plait ,,& ,,plaitt+ #de ,,vi4 ,,dye+ #eb ,,vii4 ,,blea*+ #fj ,,viii4 ,,blockmak+ #ff ,,ix4 ,,h& ,,& ,,ma*9e ,,sew+ #ga ,x4 ,,/iff5+ #hd ,,xi4 ,,block+ ,,by ,,h& #ic ,,xii4 ,,block+ ,,by ,,ma*9e #ajj ,,xiii4 ,,f9i%+4 ,,poli%+4 ,,trimm+4 ,,l9+ #aaa ,,index #abe ,,erm5 ,,roby',s ,,cotton ,,is ,,luton',s ,,fav\rite ,,br& ,illu/ration ,:ite & ,black on #aj1jjj ,y>d ,reels ,all ,col\rs on #e1jjj ,y>d ,reels ,,illu/rations ,,page ,,f9i%+1 ,,l9+ ,,& ,,trimm+ ,,/raw ,,hats ,frontispiece ,,! ,,petasus #b ,,! ,,/ephanos #c ,,! ,,etruscan ,,hat #d ,,hat ,,( ,,p5elope #e ,a ,,pompeian ,,bonnet #e ,,/raw ,,plaitt]s ,,at ,,"w #cj ,,panama ,,hood ,,mak+ #ci ,,blea*+ ,,& ,,dye+ ,,( ,,plaits ,,& ,,hoods #ee ,a ,,tipp] #fi ,,section ,,( ,,f\r ,,r[s ,,( ,,plait #gb ,,sew+ ,,/raw ,,plait ,,into ,,hats ,,by ,,ma*9e #ge ,,section ,,( ,,roll]s #hb ,,/iff5+ ,,/raw ,,hats #hi ,,h& ,,block+ #ig ,,ma*9e ,,block+ #ajc ,,ma*9e ,,block+ 7,,bro*i] ,,type7 #aji ,,e ,,description ,,( ,,/raw ,,hats ,,( ,,gu>ante$ ,,excell5ce ,illu/ration3 ,! 8,cavali]0 ,make ,engli% ,boat] ,g5u9e 8,luton ,lodge0 ,,regd4 ,engli% ,boat] ,g5u9e 8,wal% ,luton0 ,,regd4 ,e/abli%$ #ahfb ,,r[l& ,,cunn+ham 7,,wm4 ,,wal%7 ,,limit$ ,,/raw ,,hat ,,manufactur]s ,,/u>t ,,lodge ,,hat ,,works ,,luton1 ,,b$s ,telegraphic ,address3 8,,wal% ,,luton0 ,telephone3 #acb ,,luton ,code ,a ,b ,c #d? #e? ,editions ,,m>coni',s1 ,,b5tley',s ,,/raw ,,hats ,,*apt] ,i ,,orig9 ,,& ,,classical ,,hi/ory ,! orig9 ( :at is kn[n z a 8,/raw ,hat0 is lo/ 9 ! mi/s ( antiquity4 ,ambigu\s ref]5ces to :at may h be5 hats ( vegetable mat]ials are to be f\nd 9 ! works ( almo/ all anci5t writ]s1 b v little t is specific c be discov]$4 ,p]haps "o reason = ! paucity ( in=mation on ?is subject may be t ! home made hats ( plaitt$ /raws or ru%es 7 probably worn only by ! common p4 ,) society1 z x exi/$ 9 e>ly days1 if su* 7 ! case1 ! matt] w\ld be consid]$ almo/ too vulg> = ! classical writ]s to m5tion4 ,d\btless 9 ! e>lie/ /ages ( human developm5t any k9d ( conv5i5t mat]ial 0 utiliz$ by primeval man 9 ! endeav\r to keep 8 head or body w>m or cool z ! case might require4 ,n[ ! m]e fact ( ! %elt] af=d$ by trees w\ld create "s inducem5t t[>ds us+ leaves = cov]+ ! body1 = "o may assume t ev5 be=e vegetable products 7 ga!r$ & us$1 say1 z ?at*1 = collective %elt]1 "s ( !m 7 adopt$ = individual protective purposes4 ,! e>lie/ ref]5ce to su* is ! well-kn[n acc\nt ( ! 8aprons ( fig leaves0 m5tion$ 9 ! ?ird *apt] ( ,g5esis4 ,?is primitive me?od ( clo?+ 0 soon foll[$ by ! use ( sk9s 7z not$ lat] 9 ! same *apt]71 b ev5 9 ?is record ! vegetable product 0 us$ by man be=e t ( animals1 & %[s 9 a mo/ unmi/akable1 ev5 if allegorical1 mann]1 ! natural tr5d ( all developm5t1 viz41 t articles easie/ to procure are ^? t are fir/ us$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a ,,petasus1 ,,f ,,p>!non ,,frieze 7,,elg9 ,,m>ble7 ,,by ,,phidias 7circ4 #dej ,b4,c47 ,%ad$ "p is n[ brok54 ,x is1 !re=e1 n unfair to assume t ! manipulation ( vegetable fibres1 su* z leaves1 ru%es1 /raws & o!r simil> products1 0 really ! e>lie/ textile op]ation4 ,t once conc$$1 x is no long /ep to ! use ( ! 8plaitt$0 article z a head cov]+4 ,! ,encyclopa$ia ,britannica1 9 its articles on 8,co/ume0 & 8,hats0 /ates t ! 8mod]n hat c be trac$ back to ! ,petasus worn by ! anci5t ,romans :5 on a j\rney02 & simil> hats1 kn[n z ,kausia1 7 also us$ by ! anci5t ,greeks on l occasions4 ,! ,greek ,kausia & ! ,roman ,petasus are describ$ z 8hats ( a pliant mat]ial :i* c\ld be b5t d[n at ! sides l t worn by ,atalanta40 ,la ,croix1 a ,fr5* writ] on ! subject1 assures u t ! e>ly ,romans & ,franks 8s\ght ,ba/ & ,/raw ( :i* to make !m hats10 & !re is an antique /atue ( ,m]cury 9 ! ,vatican at ,rome1 :i* has = head cov]+ a hat ( a 8wide-awake0 nature1 sculptur$ 9 close imitation ( a f9ely plaitt$ /raw4 ,! ,goddess ,h]a 7! ,grecian "n = ! ,roman ,juno71 ,que5 ( ,olympus1 is depict$ on anci5t vases1 co9s & /atues we>+ a ,/ephanos "o ( ! /atues1 ! orig9al ( :i* 0 by ,praxiteles 7#cej ,b4,c471 repres5t+ ,h]a ,teleia /&+1 is kn[n to mod]ns by copies to be f\nd 9 ! ,vatican & o!r museums4 ,pausanias 7c4 #afj ,b4,c47 speak+ ( ! co9s ( ,argos1 specifically describes ,h]a z we>+ a ,/ephanos4 ,?is 0 a head cov]+ consi/+ only ( a cr[n1 simil> 9 %ape to a mod]n ,turki% fez inv]t$1 ( ! same bread? & height all r\nd1 & 0 made ( v>i\s vegetable products4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b ,,/ephanos1 ,,f ,,t]ra-,,cotta 7#gjj ,b4,c471 ,,briti% ,,museum ,9 ! ,briti% ,museum is to be se5 a small t]ra-cotta figure seat$ we>+ ! above sket*$ ,/ephanos 9 :i* ! plaitt+ m>ks ( co>se vegetable fibres are v di/9ct4 ,?is is probably ! e>lie/ extant record1 9 ! pla/ic art1 ( a /raw hat4 8,wick] "w 7poloi kala?oi7 0 also us$ by ! anci5t ,greeks to make brim-less hats40 7,g]>d4 ,antike ,bildw]ke47 ,! anci5t ,etruscans wore :at 0 kn[n z a ,tutulus1 a brimless hat ) a high po9t$ c5tre to ! cr[n2 & a broad brimm$ hat simil> to ! ,petasus1 b ) a po9t$ top l ! ,tutulus4 ,etruria cov]$ ! di/rict n[ occupi$ by ! ,italian /raw plait & hat mak]s1 b :ile !re is an extreme likelihood1 f ! %ape ( ! hat 9 ! accompany+ sket*1 t ! d5iz5s ( ?is f]tile *ampaign1 produc+ z x does1 & probably did1 unlimit$ mat]ials t c\ld be plaitt$1 made ^! hats ( /raw1 !re is no def9ite in=mation z to _! be+ con/ruct$ ( any vegetable fibres4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c ,,etruscan ,,hat 7circ4 #ddj ,b4,c471 ,,head ,,( ,,peleus ,,f ,,pa9t+ ,,on ,,e>!nw>e ,,di% ,,f\nd ,,9 ,a ,,tomb ,,at ,,vulci ,ano!r v important l9k ( classical int]e/ ) ! remote pa/ is %[n 9 ! two sket*es ( hats & bonnets z worn by ! anci5t inhabitants ( ill-fat$ ,pompeii4 ,! mural decorations ( ?is long-buri$ city illu/rate 9 a f> m cog5t mann] ?an any o!r kn[n examples1 ! probable actual appe>ance ( ! p :o liv$ !re be=e its cata/rophe1 & ! hat %[n on ! head ( ,p5elope is a model t has be5 imitat$ dur+ ! la/ ?irty-five ye>s4 ,! little knob on ! top is1 h[ev]1 q novel4 ,! o!r example f ,pompeii is f a comic fresco 9 :i* two m51 dress$ z wom51 are hav+ an alt]cation1 & "h ! arti/ has n only %[n ! l9es :i* indicate ! ridges ( a wov5 vegetable fibre hat1 b ?is pa9t+ provides ! fir/ kn[n draw+ ( a ,bonnet4 ,note ! tilt at :i* x is worn1 & ! portion cut out at base to admit ! neck1 & also ! absolute resemblance to :at is kn[n z a 8,granny0 ,bonnet4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d ,,hat ,,worn ,,by ,,p5elope ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e ,,bonnet ,a v fam\s writ] ( antiquity 7p]haps ! "o be/ kn[n1 except ,caes>1 to all s*ol>s ( ,lat971 ,virgil1 makes allusion 9 8 ,pa/orals to ! 8plaitt+ ( osi]s & will[s40 ,probably !re is no race ( m5 t has s closely ma9ta9$ to ! pres5t "t its anci5t =ms ( clo?+1 z h ! ,arabs2 & !y occasionally we> a hat made ( twi/$ b&s ( /raw simil> to a beehive4 ,!y are ! only ,moslems t d1 & !re is no trace ( any o!r p ( t religion we>+ a simil> head cov]+4 ,all ?is evid5ce f ! ,graeco-,roman & o!r anci5t s\rces proves t ! mak+ 9 "s way ( /raw hats 0 fairly g5]al ev5 9 ! e>lie/ times 9 ! c\ntries ( ,asia ,m9or & s\?-ea/]n ,europe1 b "s writ]s on ! subject fav\r ! claims ( ! ,black ,=e/ ( ,g]many z hav+ be5 ! bir?place ( ! indu/ry4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 may be s1 al?\gh no ,g]manic or ,teutonic writ]s ( equal antiquity h h&$ d[n su* direct evid5ce z t ( ! ,graeco-,romans4 ,b x seems a little invidi\s = any special "p ( ! _w to make su* a claim1 = d\btless ! weav+ ( vegetable fibres 0 n conf9$ to any p>ticul> area1 b t primeval man all ov] ! _w practis$ ! op]ation = 8 own ne$s4 ,!re are no ,briti% records ( /raw hats until ,a4,d4 #adei1 :5 x is n>rat$ t ,sir ,john ,fa/olfe di$ possess$ ( 8ij ,/raw5 hattes02 ! 8,promtorium p>vulorum0 ( ab\t t date r5d]s ! 8hatte ( /raw0 z cap$ulum4 ,sp5s]1 ,%akespe>e & ,?ynne1 brilliant lum9>ies ( ! ,elizabe?an p]iod1 all make allusions to ! /raw hat4 ,sp5s]1 ! ,poet ,laureate ( ,good ,que5 ,bess 7:o h]self is said to h worn a /raw hat t may /ill be se5 at ,hatfield ,h\se71 q e>ly 9 ! sixte5? c5tury says-- 8,"s plaid ) /raws10 etc43 :ile ,?ynne1 ab\t #aegj1 9 8 8,debate betwe5 ,pride & ,l[l9ess0 writes ( a man ) 8,a /raw5 hatte ^u 8 head 8,! :i* 0 fa/5$ und]nea?40 ,%akespe>e 9 ,! ,tempe/ 7,act ,,iv1 ,sc5e #a7 makes ,iris say-- 8,y sunburn$ sicklem51 ( ,augu/ we>y 8,come hi!r f ! furr[1 & be m]ry2 8,make holyday3 y\r rye /raw hats put on 8,& ^! fre% nymphs enc\nt] e "o 8,9 c\ntry foot+40 ,9 ,a ,lov]'s ,compla9t1 ! immortal b>d /ill fur!r emphasizes ! use1 :i* app>5tly 0 fairly g5]al1 ( ! /raw hat-- 8,^u h] head a platt$ hive ( /raw 8,:i* =tifi$ h] visage f ! sun40 ,?is passage is int]e/+ fir/ on acc\nt ( ! use ( ! ^w hive4 ,?is object1 z us$ = beekeep+1 0 )\t d\bt v famili> to ,%akespe>e1 & !re=e ! maid's head cov]+1 z x exi/$ 9 ! imag9ation ( ! poet1 0 probably simil> to t worn by ! ,arabs m5tion$ previ\sly1 = %e & !y wore x z a protection aga9/ ! sun's heat4 ,second1 ,%akespe>e's spell+ ( ! ^w 8platt$0 0 und\bt$ly ! me?od ( spell+ curr5t at ! "t & 0 phonetic4 7,! au?or 9 ! 8,=eword0 bases 8 reasons = us+ ! d\ble ,t 9 8plaitt+0 or 8plaitt]0 9 conjunction ) ! mod]n spell+ ( ! ^w on ?is & o!r m rec5t well-kn[n examples ( lit]ature co-eval ) ! bir? ( ! trade 9 ,great ,brita947 ,b5 ,jonson1 ! ,poet ,laureate ( ,james ,i1 ab\t #afcj1 9 an epigram to ,lady ,m>y ,wro?1 writes-- 8,he t saw y we> ! :eat5 hat10 etc4 ,! inimitable di>i/1 ,pepys1 describes an actress at ! ,duke's ,!atre z 8dress$ l a c\ntry maid ) a /raw hat on03 & m5tions t :ile /ay+ at ,hatfield1 8,! wom5 7( ! p>ty7 _h pleasure 9 putt+ on "s ,/raw ,hats1 :i* are mu* worn 9 ?is c\ntry1 :i* did become !m mightily1 b especially my wife660 ,x may be int]e/+ at ?is po9t to m5tion a widely kn[n subject1 ( :i* int]pretations h be5 greatly at fault4 ,"o ( ,pet] ,paul ,rub5s' be/ kn[n pa9t+s is entitl$ 8,la ,dame au ,*apeau de ,poil40 ,! subject is ( a lady we>+ a l>ge brimm$ & some:at high cr[n$ hat adorn$ ) a sweep+ plume ( fea!rs1 & _m writ]s on /raw hats h endeav\r$ to %[ t ! hat ( ! picture 0 made ( /raw1 argu+ t ! ^w 8,poil0 9 ! title 0 an anci5t =m ( ! ,fr5* ^w = /raw1 viz41 8,paille40 ,x is true t "s old ,gaelic writ]s 9 m5tion+ ! /alks ( c]eals h us$ v>i\s me?ods ( spell+ ! equival5t = /raw2 8,pail10 8,paile0 & 8,paill0 are to be f\nd 9 sixte5? & sev5te5? c5tury books1 b 9 no case has ! ^w 8,poil0 ev] be5 us$1 & q rightly s1 because ?is ^w means an entirely diff]5t ?+1 & is us$ to-day ) ! same spell+ & = ! same purpose z x 0 9 ! sixte5? c5tury4 8,poil0 means 8nap10 a rais$ 8pile10 :i* c be obta9$ on v>i\s fabrics4 ,?is consi/s ( a suffici5t numb] ( ! loose ends ( ! /aple1 ( :i* ! mat]ial is wov5 or felt$1 be+ left on ! surface1 or aft]w>ds rais$ by means ( combs1 etc41 s z to =m ei!r a velvety ri*ness on :i* ! loose ends /& upright1 or a glossy f9i%1 l t obta9$ on a man's top hat1 :]e ! loose ends are smoo!d d[n4 ,! real translation ( ! picture's title is 8,! lady ) a ,pile hat10 9 ?is case und\bt$ly ( "s felt$ nature & ( :i* ! actual mod]n equival5t w\ld be ei!r a beav]1 flam& or vel\r4 ,f ?is "t onw>ds1 z pr9t+ became m g5]al1 allusions to /raw hats became frequ5t1 &1 ) ! adv5t ( p]iodicals ( fa%ions1 etc41 = ladies1 bo? lett]press & illu/rations confirm _! widespread use4 ,naturally detail began to be giv51 & ! poet ,gay 7cir4 #agad7 9 8 ,pa/orals s+s ( 8,my new /raw hat1 ?us trimly l9$ ) gre540 ,9 ! ,ladies ,diction>y 7#afid7 "u ! head+ ( 8,app>el10 /raw hats are m5tion$ z among ! ?+s 8necess>y to fem99e adornm5t40 ,miss ,con/ance ,i%]wood says t 8,/raw hats--became ! rage among ! reign+ beauties ( ,que5 ,anne's c\rt & ! e>ly ,georgian p]iod40 ,! ,ladies' ,magaz9e ( ! eighte5? c5tury has _m plates %[+ v>i\s /yles ( :at are c]ta9ly /raw hats1 ! design & manipulation ( ! /raws 9 wov5 hats & ! detail ( ! plait 9 sewn hats be+ v c>efully & di/9ctly engrav$4 ,^! exc]pts f anci5t z well z m rec5t au?orities all t5d to %[ ! widespread use ( ! /raw hat1 & prove t ! t]m 8/raw0 01 z x is n[1 a mo/ compreh5sive "o1 & "o 9 no way entirely conf9$ to ! /alks ( c]eals4 ,b !y also %[ t1 al?\gh /raw hats 7 made all ov] ! ,cont95t1 etc41 ! "w on !m 0 purely individual & local4 ,!re 7 no recogniz$ c5tres ( manufacture or di/ribution1 =1 except+ ! fact t "s localities 7 m productive ( suitable mat]ials = plaitt+ ?an o!rs1 ! mak+ ( /raw hats 0 univ]sal1 & x is n until ! sixte5? c5tury t any reliable in=mation is obta9able ( special c5tres = /raw hat production4 ,accord+ to ,ces>e ,cantu1 a well-kn[n ,italian hi/orian1 ! manufacture ( hats ( /raw 9 ! neighb\rhood ( ,flor5ce1 = di/ribution outside ! locality1 c be trac$ back to ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,?is is probably q true1 b un=tunately ! /atem5t is n corroborat$ by any contemporane\s evid5ce4 ,b 9 ! ye> #aegd1 ,signa1 a village ne> ,flor5ce1 0 entitl$ 8! orig9al seat ( ! indu/ry40 7,f a consul> report47 ,x is1 !re=e1 almo/ safe to decl>e t ! comm]cial life ( ! /raw hat began 9 ! di/rict ( ,flor5ce1 & "h1 probably1 = ! fir/ "t 9 hi/ory1 7 to be f\nd ga!r$ toge!r 9 suffici5tly l>ge numb]s to make _! w>es m>ketable1 p]sons bo? male & female engag$ 9 weav+ /raws into hats1 or capelli1 or 9 plaitt+ /raws into braids1 :i* 7 call$ paglia or plait4 ,f ,tuscany to ,pi$mont is n a 8f> cry10 & ,coryat 9 8 ,crudities 7a "w publi%$ 9 #afaa & consi/+ ( a s]ies ( obs]vations made 9 a j\rney ?r\gh ,europe7 says1 8at _m places 9 ,piemont ,i obs]v$ mo/ delicate /raw5 hats1 :i* bo? m5 & wom5 use 9 mo/ places ( t ,prov9ce40 ,aga91 ,pi$mont is n v di/ant f ,lorra9e1 & x is f ?is latt] di/rict1 :i* 0 ! c\ntry ( ! bir?place ( h] "m1 t ,m>y1 ,que5 ( ,scots1 is said to h br\ght plaitt]s to ,scotl& 9 #aeeb1 & ?us to h introduc$ ! art to ! ,briti% ,isles4 ,"s writ]s on ?is subject1 fail+ to discrim9ate betwe5 plait & hats1 adduce _m adv]se argum5ts 7see bel[7 :5 ! claim is made t ! un=tunate que5 e/abli%$ ! trade 9 ! coa/s ( ,brita94 ,^! po9t to ! und\bt$ fact t /raw hats 7 made bo? 9 ,scotl& & ,engl& be=e h] "t4 ,t1 ( c\rse1 is q true1 b :at is n equally c]ta9 is :e!r ! hats made 9 ! ,briti% ,isles be=e #aeeb 7 hats wov5 9 "o piece1 or hats made ( plaitt$ braid sewn aft]w>ds 9 "s mann] to ! requir$ %ape4 ,9 ! old acc\nt ( ! transaction "o reads t 9 ,lorra9e ,m>y notic$ ! p 8pr(itably employ$1 "s 9 plaitt+ /raws & o!rs 9 work+ 7sic7 ! /raw plait into hats40 ,x is1 !re=e1 evid5t t x 0 an e/abli%$ indu/ry 9 ,lorra9e & t bo? op]ations 7 be+ c>ri$ on4 ,"o may also d$uce t1 :ile ! weav+ ( hats may h be5 common 9 ,scotl&1 ! mak+ ( plait & ! subsequ5t mak+ into hats 0 a novelty to ,m>y1 &1 !re=e1 9 ! int]e/s ( h] ,scotti% subjects1 %e endeav\r$ to promote a simil> indu/ry 9 :i* !y also might be 8pr(itably employ$40 ,! late ,mr4 ,john ,wall]1 ( ,luton1 a memb] ( "o ( ! olde/ families connect$ ) ! /raw trade1 aft] a c>eful & app>5tly unbias$ inve/igation1 says t ! /atem5t ab\t ,m>y be+ ! f\nd] ( ! indu/ry 8c only be reg>d$ z pleas+ fiction02 & to support ?is quotes f ,oldmixon's ,hi/ory ( ,engl& 7edition ( #agbd7 8,t ! manufacture ( /raw plait _h ?riv5 = ab\t #ajj ye>s 9 ! neighb\rhood ( ,hemel ,hemp/ead & ,dun/able40 ,b f #aeeb to #afbd is a long p]iod1 & "o c easily imag9e ! natives ( sunny ,lorra9e feel+ none too homelike 9 8,cal$onia1 /]n & wild40 ,) ! accession ( ,james ,i 7,m>y's son7 to ! ,engli% ?rone1 :at c\ld be m natural ?an ! migration ( ^! work]s to m g5ial s\!rly temp]atures1 br++ ) !m _! art8 ,z ,james became k+ 9 #afjc !re w\ld h be5 pl5ty ( "t = ! indu/ry ( mak+ plait = sew+ into hats be+ e/abli%$ betwe5 !n & #afbd1 :i* w\ld be exactly #ajj ye>s be=e ,oldmixon's acc\nt6 ,& speak+ ( ! adv5t ( ! ,lorra9]s into ,b$s & ,h]ts1 ,mr4 ,?omas ,george ,au/91 9 8 book on ! ,/raw ,hat & ,bonnet trade ( ! ,luton ,di/rict1 writes1 8,x is said to be ! true hi/ory ( ! introduction ( ! h&icraft into ,engl&40 ,"o mu/1 !re=e1 come to ! conclusion t ! sy/em ( mak+ hats f plait1 z di/9ct f ! weav+ ! hat 9 "o piece1 0 introduc$ by ,m>y1 ,que5 ( ,scots1 to ,scotl&1 & f !nce ! me?od came s\?1 & = reasons :i* w be set out h]eaft]1 settl$ itself 9 ! regions ( ,s\? ,b$=d%ire1 ,nor?-ea/ ,h]t=d%ire1 & ,ea/ ,buck+ham%ire4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,comm]cial ,,rise ,,& ,,gr[? ,! hi/ory ( a /raw hat has ?us be5 trac$ d[n to ! latt] half ( ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,prior to ?is p]iod all k9ds ( /raws1 grasses1 & fibres ( vegetables _h be5 utiliz$ 9 ! op]ation1 ! only limit z to mat]ial be+ ! gr[?s peculi> to ! locality 9 :i* hat-mak+ 0 c>ri$ on1 s "o may see t1 z ea* locality probably grew diff]5t k9ds ( fibres1 ! result ( ! f9i%$ hats 0 diff]5t4 ,?is diff]5ce e>ly gave rise to local nom5clature1 p]haps ! fir/ collective t]m 0 8,leghorn0 7circ4 #afej4 ,toml9son's ,cyclopa$ia1 #ahfg74 ,?is n[ well-kn[n v>iety ( /raw hat1 wov5 fir/ 9 braids & !n cunn+ly put toge!r 9 spiral sequ5ce to ! requir$ %ape1 is n sewn ov]lapp+1 b ) ! braids laid edge to edge1 & a f9e t\gh /raw or o!r fibre ?read$ ?r\gh e o!r head on ! imp++ edges ( ! plait1 & !n drawn tight1 s t ! opposite heads fitt+ betwe5 & inside ea* o!r assum$ ! appe>ance ( be+ wov5 9 "o piece1 except t :]e ! jo9 took place1 ! ?ickness caus$ by ! heads ( ! plait & ! ?read+ mat]ial1 produc$ a ridge :i*1 />t+ f ! c5tre & runn+ spirally to ! edge ( ! brim1 is "o ( ! prom95t *>act]i/ics ( a 8,leghorn40 ,?is t]m1 !re=e1 embodies1 fir/1 ! place ( orig92 second1 ! mat]ial us$2 ?ird1 ! me?od ( us+4 ,if o!r local t]ms 7 ?us e>ly appli$ to /raw productions1 !y h n1 z f> z ! ,cont95t ( ,europe is conc]n$1 come d[n to mod]n times1 all o!r names n[ 9 use 7& !y are legion7 are ! products ( ! late eighte5? & ! n9ete5? c5turies4 ,all ! mat]ials us$ = plaitt+ up to ab\t #agde _h be5 work$ :ole1 t is1 ! fibre :e!r ru%1 grass or /raw1 0 plaitt$ z x 0 gr[n1 & consequ5tly ! hats ( co>se weav+ l>gely pr$om9at$2 !re be+ naturally a prepond]ance ( ! co>s] p>ts ( any vegetable gr[?4 ,fur!r1 ! manipulation ( ! bigg] fibres 0 easi] to f+]s p]haps only infrequ5tly devot$ to ! "w1 & !re=e up to ?is p]iod ! majority ( /raw hats 7 ?ick & weighty4 ,!re 7 exceptions su* z ,leghorns t 7 plaitt$ f a v>iety ( be>d$ :eat or rye 7,triticum turgidum7 gr[n 9 ,tuscany4 ,?is 0 light 9 weight1 comp>atively t\gh1 & ( a f9e natural gold5 col\r4 ,! upp] "p ( ! /raw call$ ,punta 7or po9t7 0 us$ = all ,leghorn hats1 & also = mak+ plait :i* 0 call$ ,tuscan1 f ! locality ( gr[?4 ,:5 ,tuscan 0 ! only /raw plait export$ f ,italy1 ,great ,brita9 0 "o ( ! pur*as]s1 & dur+ ! e>ly "p ( ! n9ete5? c5tury up to ! repeal ( ! ,corn ,laws & ! abolition ( protective duties on o!r goods1 ,briti% import]s ( ,tuscan plait _h to pay a duty ( #hs4 p] lb4 weight4 ,! desire to produce /raw hats ( less weight br\ght ! bottom half ( ! /raw column into use4 ,t portion g5]ally has a %ea?1 protect+ x f ! sun1 :i* be+ /ripp$ disclos$ ! "u "p ( pe>ly :ite col\r1 ?is f be+ at ! foot 0 call$ p$ale1 & al?\gh n s t\gh z ! punta1 0 suffici5tly s = plaitt+ purposes1 & 0 v mu* light] 9 weight4 ,! fir/ p>cel ( p$ale plait arriv$ 9 ,great ,brita9 9 #ahgh1 & is suppos$ to h be5 pur*as$ by ,messrs4 ,c>ru!rs ,co41 ( ,luton4 ,b ev5 !n ! quantity ( f9e p$ale /raws gr[n did n suffice = ! increas+ dem&s = /raw hats4 ,! ,italian /raw1 be+ s well e/abli%$ z ! be/ mat]ial1 caus$ work]s to endeav\r to f9d simil> /raw 9 o!r c\ntries :i* _h adopt$ /raw hat mak+ z a comm]cial und]tak+4 ,x is probable t ! climate ( ,scotl& 0 n alone ! cause = ! migration ( ! ,lorra9]s2 ! se>* = f9e :ite1 light1 /raws1 impossible to obta9 9 ! cold nor?1 may h drawn ^! op]atives to ! s\!rn p>ts ( ,engl&4 ,:atev] ! actual reason or reasons1 x is c]ta9 t by #afbd ! neighb\rhood ( ,s\? ,b$=d%ire 7,dun/able71 ,nor?-we/ ,h]t=d%ire 7,hemel ,hemp/ead71 & probably ,ea/ ,buck+ham%ire 0 produc+ high] grade /raw hats ?an any hi!rto obta9able 9 ! ,briti% ,isles4 ,! di/rict comprises practically ! :ole ( ! ,ea/]n ranges ( ! ,*ilt]n ,hills1 an area ( *alky subsoil4 ,! discrim9at+ ,lorra9]s quickly discov]$ ! extreme beauty ( col\r ( ! ,*ilt]n /raws1 & x is almo/ c]ta9 t = ?is reason alone ! art ( mak+ plait braid 0 introduc$ into ! locality1 :i* f #afbd onw>ds has be5 und\bt$ly ! c5tre ( ! ,briti% /raw hat indu/ry4 ,lat] on ! /raw plait mak+ spread to portions ( ,essex & ,suffolk1 & al?\gh ! plaits produc$ !re 7 ( mu* inf]ior quality & col\r to ^? produc$ 9 ! ,*ilt]ns1 &1 g5]ally speak+1 7 n utiliz$ = ! highe/ class "w1 !y =m$ a v useful adjunct to ! plait /ocks requir$ by hat manufactur]s :5 l>ge quantities 7 ne$$4 ,ano!r ,engli% c5tre = /raw plaitt+ 0 ,ripon 9 ,york%ire1 ! di/rict ar\nd be+ ! seat ( q a fair-siz$ indu/ry4 ,x is int]e/+ to note ?is1 = x seems to %[ t ! ,lorra9]s 9 _! s\!rly migration1 _h /opp$ en r\te1 & _h sampl$ ! /raws gr[n on ! ,york%ire *alk4 ,b all ?is evid5ce t5ds to prove t ! nature ( ! soil :i* produc$ ! prop] /raw = plaitt+ caus$ ! trade to localize ar\nd ,dun/able4 ,?is anci5t bor\gh1 practically 9 ! c5tre ( ! plaitt+ di/ricts1 situat$ on ! ,watl+ ,/reet1 along :i* pass$ all ! traffic betwe5 ,london & ! nor?-we/ ( ,engl& & ,nor!rn ,wales1 at ! junction ( ! ,icknield way 7ano!r anci5t ,roman road cross+ ! ,watl+ ,/reet t[>ds ! ea/ & we/71 0 9 ! middle ( ! fifte5? c5tury alive all day ) ! hum ( p & m]*&ise travell+ to & fro4 ,sitt+ a/ride ( ! trunk roads lead+ ev]y:]e 9 ,great ,brita91 x is small wond] t ?is little t[n1 ( va/ ecclesia/ical importance 9 ! ,middle ,ages1 b mu* decay$ s9ce ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,viii1 became ! place f :5ce all ! products ( ! neighb\rhood c\ld be dispat*$4 ,&1 !re=e1 ! "n ( 8,dun/able10 ano!r ( ! n[ _w-kn[n local names1 0 giv5 to ! plait1 hats & bonnets :i* emanat$ f ! :ole vic9ity4 ,! great prepond]ance ( co>se /raws1 comb9$ ) ! increas+ dem&s = hats made ( f9e plaits1 caus$ /raw work]s to endeav\r to make ! /raws small] by splitt+ ! 8pipes0 7z ! :ole /raw is call$7 into n>r[] portions call$ 8spl9ts40 ,?is 0 done at fir/ ) a knife1 b ! result 0 g5]ally unsatisfactory1 al?\gh "s skill$ work]s manag$ to acquire really wond]ful deftness 9 ! op]ation4 ,x 0 plait call$ 8,pat5t ,dun/able0 made ( ^! split /raws t gave ?is plaitt+ area its fir/ textile claim to di/9ction4 ,"s "o1 n[ unkn[n1 f\nd out t two f9e spl9ts ( /raw laid toge!r1 inside to inside1 produc$ :5 plaitt$ an effect equal to t ( ! :ole /raw1 & yet enabl$ plaitt]s to make ! f9e/ & n>r[e/ wid?s ( plait4 ,! clumsy me?od ( cutt+ ) a knife 0 app>5tly ! only possible way ( mak+ spl9ts until ! "t ( ! ,napoleonic ,w>s4 ,! ,fr5* prison]s at ,yaxley ,b>racks1 ne> ,/ilton1 produc$ 8pretty & useful articles su* z baskets1 workboxes1 mats1 etc40 7,mr4 ,alfr$ ,tansley ,soc4 ,art41 #ahfj74 ,^! 7 decorat$ ) 8laid "w10 a k9d ( mosaic patt]n made ( col\r$ /raw spl9ts1 cut to v>i\s sizes & pa/$ on suitable f\ndations4 8,= ! purpose ( mak+ ^! spl9ts1 !y us$ a /raw splitt] made ( bone1 ab\t two in*es long1 br\ght to a po9t beh9d :i* a set ( cutt]s 0 arrang$ 9 a circle1 ! po9t ent]$ ! /raw pipe sep>at+ x into s _m equal siz$ spl9ts0 7,tansley74 ,?is in/rum5t 0 soon copi$ by a ,dun/able blacksmi? nam$ ,janes 7"s au?orities say ,norman7 :o made "s 9 iron & turn$ ! cutt+ p>ts at "r angles to an elongat$ /em1 :i* c\ld be us$ z a h&le4 ,^! 7 subsequ5tly also made 9 brass1 & 9 #ahae o!r v>ieties1 9 ! =m ( metal :eels set 9 wood5 frames1 appe>$4 ,mr4 ,tansley says1 8,to ?is inv5tion may be attribut$ ! success :i* 9 aft] times has att5d$ ! manufacture ( /raw plait 9 ,engl&40 ,! two me?ods ( work+ /raws1 ei!r :ole or split1 op5$ up a wide field = div]sity ( plaitt+1 & quickly novelties began to appe>4 ,f #ahae to ! pres5t day1 at int]vals sometimes %ort & sometimes v long1 new designs ( plait h be5 put on ! m>ket1 & n[ !re is no /yle ( %ape t _c be suitably fitt$ up ) "o or m plaits4 ,briti% plaitt]s h n be5 cont5t to use only ! /raws gr[n 9 ! five c\nties4 ,!y h ransack$ ! _w = mat]ials1 wood cut into f9e %av+s or spl9ts1 ,manila grasses or hemp1 manufactur$ spl9ts ( cotton1 silk1 or simil> fibres1 /uck toge!r 9 a flat ribbon call$ a 8lame10 horsehair1 bamboo1 raffia1 & _m o!r articles h be5 us$ = ! purpose4 ,at "o "t #cj1jjj p]sons 7 engag$ 9 ! plaitt+ indu/ry1 b by #ahij ! numb] _h dw9dl$ to "u #c1jjj4 ,! reasons = ?is decl9e 7 manifold4 ,al?\gh ! di/rict _h produc$1 & 0 /ill produc+1 /raws bett] ?an any o!r cont95tal c5tre1 yet ab\t #ahee ! dem& = some?+ diff]5t f ! plaits made solely ( /raw induc$ =eign plaitt+ communities to plait fancy mat]ials :i* be=e _h be5 us$ = o!r purposes4 ,switz]l& & ,france began to make pretty & delicate patt]ns ( plait or braid1 wov5 bo? by h& & by ma*9]y1 ( all k9ds ( fancy fibres su* z silk1 horsehair 7or cr9ol9e z t]m$ by mill9]s71 f9e ribbons1 etc41 9 v>i\s comb9ations ( "o or two or m ( ! above articles ei!r ) or )\t /raws4 ,fur!r attempts 9 ! way ( decoration 7 made by int]mixtures ( glass beads & bugles4 ,^! v fanciful braids _h a wond]ful success1 = !y 7 especially adaptable = bonnets1 :i* to ab\t #ahfe 7 mu* m 9 dem& = fa%ionable we> ?an hats4 ,?is invasion ( a l>ge quantity ( displac+ mat]ial adv]sely affect$ ! volume ( plaitt+ 9 ,engl&1 & /ill fur!r damage 0 done :5 ,italy began to s5d ov] pla9 & fancy plaits made ( will[ %av+s1 z well z f9e /raw punta & p$ale plaits simil> to ,twi/1 :i* 0 by !n ! ma9/ay ( ! f9e plait trade4 7,twi/ 0 a #g end /raw ) a twi/$ beadhead made ( f9e spl9ts1 two ( :i* laid inside to inside =m$ "o /r& = plaitt+47 ,9 #ahfg ! 8la/ nail 9 ! c(f90 ( ,briti% /raw plaitt+ 0 driv5 by ! fir/ import ( plait f ,*9a1 & 9 t same ye> ! di/ress 9 & ar\nd ,dun/able 0 s great t ! !n ,mayor1 ,mr4 ,joseph ,gutt]idge1 call$ a public meet+ to discuss me?ods = its alleviation4 ,z ! f> ea/]n c\ntries ( ,*9a & ,japan n[ play su* an important "p 9 ! _w's /raw hat trade1 x w be ( int]e/ to note h[ ,briti% trad]s fir/ came 9 contact ) _! goods4 ,d\btless f "t immemorial ! deft 8,*9ee0 _h be5 accu/om$ to ! weav+ ( grasses1 etc41 into hats & mats1 & x is /at$ t ! att5tion ( ,luton hat mak]s 0 fir/ drawn to ! possibility ( gett+ plait f ,*9a1 by see+ "s 8hats 7mats87 :i* _h be5 us$ = l9+ *e/s ( tea40 ,:atev] ! cause1 9 #ahfg1 f plaitt$ samples s5t to !m1 ! ,*9ese 7 able to imitate1 9 _! native gr[n /raws1 ! products ( ,engl& 9 su* an excell5t mann] & at su* a l[ price1 t ! fi]ce/ competition 0 at once creat$4 ,p engag$ 9 ! trade 7 s exasp]at$ at ! circum/ance1 t !y made an effigy ( ! import] & burn$ x 9 ! ,luton ,m>ket ,place4 ,! competition ( ! increas+ bulk ( ,*9a /raw plait imports1 toge!r ) ! ,italian imitation ( ,dun/able twi/ 7call$ at fir/ 8,milan10 & n[ g5]ally kn[n z 8#g ends ,p$al07 made ! plaitt+ trade 9 ! five c\nties to decrease rapidly4 8,! ,society ( ,arts h at v>i\s times rew>d$ _m individuals = successful attempts to introduce bonnets =m$ ( grasses indig5\s to ,brita910 says ,toml9son1 9 8 ,cyclopa$ia publi%$ 9 #ahfg1 b all ^! well meant ef=ts to revive ! indu/ry 7 unavail+4 ,nei!r = price nor quantity 7:i* latt] 0 rapidly becom+ almo/ ! prime necessity7 c\ld ,briti% plaitt]s successfully compete ) ! ,italians & ! ,*9ese = plaits ( n>r[ grades1 al?\gh quantities ( wid] plaits bo? ( pla9 & fancy designs cont9u$ to be made4 ,ab\t #ahij plait began to arrive f ,japan1 & j z ! ,briti% /raw 0 bett] ?an ! ,italian & ,*9ese1 s ! ,japanese 0 sup]ior to ! ,briti%4 ,x 0 ( ! mo/ delicate pe>ly col\r1 x 0 inf9itely light] 9 weight1 & x c\ld be obta9$ 9 f> bigg] pipes ?an any ,european or ,*9ese gr[?s1 & its adaptability bo? = :ole & split plaits 0 equal to all4 ,9 /raw plait1 !re=e1 ! ,japanese 7 able to compete successfully1 b 9 a %ort "t !y put on ! m>ket an article made ( wood spl9ts plaitt$ ) ?ree /r&s1 call$ 8,*ip #c ends40 ,?is plait1 ( ,italian make orig9ally1 f its extremely l[ price & col\r possibility1 0 ! mat]ial backbone ( ! ladies' hat trade = "s ye>s4 ,9 lat] times a braid made ( hemp by ma*9]y1 call$ ,tagal or ,tgal1 orig9at$ 9 ,switz]l& & ,italy4 ,quickly adopt$ by ! ,japanese1 !y h be5 able to supplant ! e>li] produc]s1 & z ) ! ,*ip #c ends1 to provide v>ieties :i* h almo/ monopoliz$ ! hat mak+ m>kets = ! million4 ,9 #ahif ! plaitt+ trade 0 9 su* a bad /ate t "s ( ! pr9cipal hat mak]s 9 ! di/rict det]m9$ to attempt ! rescue ( ! plaitt]s4 ,= t purpose ! 8,briti% ,/raw ,plaitt+ ,company0 0 =m$1 ! writ] ( ?is book be+ appo9t$ ,*airman ( a v repres5tative ,bo>d ( ,directors4 ,manufactur]s 7 eag] to assi/1 & = ! fir/ twelve mon?s ! company %[$ great promise4 ,a revival ( plaitt+ 7al?\gh ) o!r mat]ials ?an /raw & ( fre% designs7 ensu$1 & bett] prices 7 paid s t wages 7 mu* advanc$4 ,b ! ,swiss & ,italians took fright1 & = ! next two ye>s s successfully compet$ by cutt+ prices1 t 9 #ahii ! company 0 oblig$ to cease op]ations4 ,9 fact1 n only c\ld bett] mat]ials = plaitt+ be f\nd 9 o!r p>ts ( ! _w1 b 9 ^? p>ts ! natives1 :o 7z ! ,ency4 ,britt4 says ab\t ! ,*9ese7 8c\ld live :]e an ,engli%man w\ld />ve10 7 able to produce plait at prices :i* made x impossible = plaitt]s 9 ,engl& to e>n a liv+4 ,b =tunately z ! plaitt+ trade decl9$ ! hat & bonnet mak+ ( ,dun/able & ,luton 0 increas+ z fa/ z its pr$ecessor fell4 ,9 #ahfe ! fir/ attempts to sew plait by ma*9]y 7 made1 previ\sly all _h be5 sewn by h&1 a long & t$i\s process1 :5 f9e plaits 7 involv$4 ,?is took ! =m ( sew+ sev]al pieces ( f9e plait 9 a p>allel =m1 mak+ /rips ( an increas$ wid?1 :i* 7 !n sewn by h& to ! desir$ %ape4 ,a little lat] an ,am]ican nam$ ,bodswor? introduc$ a ma*9e :i* 0 capable ( sew+ plait into hats & bonnets1 b unlike all subsequ5t models1 :i* />t at ! c5tre ( ! top ( ! cr[n1 ?is ma*9e />t$ sew+ at ! edge ( ! brim4 ,?is mat]ially less5$ ! field ( %ape v>iety1 & al?\gh great improvem5ts 7 effect$ by skilfulness ( work+1 & al?\gh ! ma*9e 0 adopt$ by ,messrs4 ,vyse ,sons ,co41 x 0 n tak5 up g5]ally by ! trade4 ,! well-kn[n firm ( ,willcox ,gibbs1 mak]s ( a dome/ic *a9/it* sew+ ma*9e1 _h an ag5t 9 ,luton nam$ ,edw>d ,/rat=d1 & ab\t #ahgj 8 wife1 9 response to a fri5dly *all5ge1 sew$ ! fir/ /raw hat f c5tre to circumf]5ce4 ,! day foll[+ ?is epo* mak+ occurr5ce ,mrs4 ,/rat=d sew$ ano!r hat out ( a f9e make ( 8,engli% ,*9a ,purl0 7a f9e fancy edg$ plait72 ?is hat is said to be /ill 9 exi/5ce4 ,f #ahgj ! :ole trade 0 revolutioniz$1 all f9e plaits ev5tually 7 sewn by ma*9e1 only ! co>se/ & broade/ wid?s be+ sewn by h&4 ,9 #ahgd ,mr4 ,h5ry ,bl&1 a ,luton me*anic1 turn$ 8 att5tion to mak+ alt]ations to ! ,willcox ,gibbs' dome/ic ma*9e1 9 ord] to r5d] x m suitable = sew+ /raw plait4 ,he took out pat5ts to cov] 8 improvem5ts1 :i* 7 subsequ5tly acquir$ by ,messrs4 ,willcox ,gibbs1 :o issu$ ! new ma*9e to ! ,trade "u ! title ( 8,! #aj-;,gu9ea0 /raw hat sew+ ma*9e4 ,b ?is visible /it* ma*9e _h a fault :i* made x unsuitable = ! be/ "w1 inasmu* z ! /it* 0 prom95t on ! outside ( ! hat1 & ! dem& = h&sewn invisible /it* cont9u$ unabat$ = goods ( ! be/ quality4 ,v>i\s ma*9es 7 introduc$ to imitate h&sew+1 mo/ ( !m failures1 b ,m4 ,lgat1 a ,fr5*man1 pat5t$ "o 9 #ahge t ev5 up to ! pres5t "t has nev] be5 surpass$ = close resemblance 9 its "w to t done by h&1 b al?\gh ! ma*9e 0 tak5 up s]i\sly by ! be/ h\ses ( ,great ,brita9 & ,france1 its l>ge initial co/1 & heavy *>ges = ma9t5ance1 all[$ x only to reta9 its supremacy p5d+ ! adv5t ( a less intricate1 delicate & co/ly model4 ,9 #ahgh ,mr4 ,edmund ,wiseman 7:o is /ill liv+71 ( ,luton1 took out a pat5t = a ma*9e to sew plaits ) a 8conceal$0 /it*4 ,9 #ahhj "s improvem5ts 7 made1 & = "s ye>s ! 8,wiseman ,conceal$ ,/it*0 ma*9e sold at ab\t half ! price ( ! 8,lgat10 & by no means z intricate & delicate1 gradually displac$ ! ,fr5* ma*9e4 ,betwe5 #ahhj & #ahhf1 ,mr4 ,bl&1 ( ,luton1 & ,mr4 ,william ,walk] ( ,dun/able1 bo? pat5t$ conceal$ /it* ma*9es1 b )\t mu* success4 ,9 #ahhf ,mr4 ,wiseman ent]$ into arrangem5ts ) ! ,willcox ,gibbs ,co4 to produce an improv$ conceal$ /it* ma*9e t f its %ape & me?od ( action 0 call$ ! 8,box ma*9e40 ,?is1 al?\gh on ! same l9es z ! fir/ inv5tion ) reg>d to ! me?od ( /it* & sew+1 0 capable ( sew+ all k9ds ( plait bo? f9e & co>se1 :]eas ! e>li] pat5t 0 only really successful on f9e plaits4 ,?is ,box ma*9e has be5 greatly improv$ s9ce #ahhf1 b tak5 on ! :ole1 its g5]al *>act]i/ics are ! same4 ,9 #ahie ,messrs4 ,janes ,bros41 ( ,luton1 took out a pat5t = a conceal$ /it* ma*9e call$ ! 8,lutonia10 :i* has met ) a v di/9ct success4 ,mean:ile ! dem& = hats ( c]ta9 plaits1 :i* 7 improv$ by ! outside /it* sew+1 kept on increas+1 & inde$ !re are plaits on :i* ev5 ! s call$ 8visible0 /it*es are invisible4 ,plaits ( cotton1 silk1 aj\r1 & cr9ol9e are ( su* nature t ! cotton us$ 9 ! outside /it* ma*9e sew+ seems to lose or bury itself 9 ! mat]ial ( ! braid1 & !re is less likelihood ( ! ne$le cat*+ 9 _! t\gh fibres ?an !re is 9 ! work+ ( ! ,box ma*9e1 :]e a hook is us$2 & fur!r = "s ye>s plaits ( f9e *ip 7 ! dom9ant dem&1 & = ^! !re 0 less t5d5cy on ! "p ( ! f9e s+le ne$le ( ! visible /it* ma*9e to cut ! n>r[ wood /r&s1 ?an if ! d\ble punctuation ( ! ,box ma*9e ne$le & hook 7 us$4 ,9 #ahgi1 !re=e1 ! ,willcox ,gibbs ,co4 took out a pat5t = :at is n[ kn[n z ! 8#ag ,gu9ea0 type ( visible /it* sew+ ma*9es4 ,?is model has be5 closely foll[$ by ! 8,dresd5sia10 a ,g]man product ( signal value2 & 8,! ,s+]10 an ,am]ican competitor1 bo? ( :i* are 9 ! ma9 imitations or copies ( ! #ahgi pat5t4 ,x is a fact wor?y ( note t ! fir/ successful ma*9e to sew a hat ( /raw plait f button to circumf]5ce ( brim 0 a ,willcox ,gibbs1 & t ! late/ ^w 9 /raw sew+ is also1 by ! arrangem5t ) ,mr4 ,wiseman1 a product ( ! same firm4 ,o!r ma*9]y us$ = mak+ /raw hats consi/s ( a v>iety ( 8,block+0 ma*9es4 ,z w be %[n h]eaft]1 ! mo/ primitive means 7 adopt$ at fir/1 b :5 ! hydraulic type made its appe>ance x soon left no room = any o!r me?od4 ,! appliances ( ,messrs ,desbordes1 ,desireau1 ,lgat1 ,b]es=d1 ,ke/on1 ,bro*i] & ,/(fel 7describ$ 9 ,*apt] ,,xii7 h n[ r5d]$ possible ! block+ ( all k9ds ( %apes & mat]ials by ma*9e4 ,! plait mill1 made ( bo? wood & iron1 completes ! li/ ( me*anical appliances us$ 9 mak+ a /raw hat4 ,b at ! pres5t "t all hat sew+ ma*9es1 :i* = at lea/ tw5ty-five ye>s 7 driv5 by ! foot p[] ( ! op]ator1 are work$ by me*anical p[]1 ei!r f a gas or /eam eng9e1 or by electrical dynamos4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,/raw ,,plait--,,me?od ,,( ,,prep>+ ,,! ,,/raws ,! =ego+ details1 ma9ly devot$ to ! classical & hi/orical side ( /raw hat manufacture1 h demon/rat$ t ! ^w 8/raw0 is v ela/ic 9 its mean+ :5 appli$ to its use = mak+ hats4 ,all classes ( vegetable fibres h be5 includ$ at "s "t or o!r 9 its embrace1 & to-day ! range ( mat]ials te*nically kn[n z 8/raws0 is l>g] ?an at any previ\s "t4 ,b z ! indu/ry ( /raw hat mak+ c5tr$ itself 9 ! locality ( ,s\? ,b$=d%ire on acc\nt ( ! sup]ior /raw1 & because ! process ( splitt+ & subsequ5t manipulation effect$ a total revolution 9 /raw hat work+1 a description ( ! processes common 9 t di/rict w1 ) a few m9or exceptions1 s]ve z an example = all plait mak+4 ,! /raws us$ 9 ,engl& are pr9cipally ^? ( :eat1 ! exceptions are v small4 ,!y are specially gr[n by c>eful me?ods ( tillage1 & at ! prop] p]iod are cut ei!r ) ! sickle or ) ! scy!1 ! m[+ ma*9e be+ likely to bruise ! /alks4 ,!y are ti$ into suitable bundles1 consid]ably small] ?an ! usual %eaf1 ) ! e>s ( corn z ne>ly level z possible2 ^! are !n cut (f & us$ = gra9 purposes4 ,! bundles ( /raw are c>efully 8comb$0 ) a co>se wood5 comb to rid ! /alks ( all ! loose portions & ?9 blades4 ,!y are !n cut into ! /&>d l5g?s1 ab\t #aj ins4 long1 & are ready = siz+4 ,?is is effect$ by work+ ?r\gh a s]ies ( sieves1 ) some:at deep sides4 ,z ! /raws h be5 c>efully ga!r$ ) e>s upp]mo/1 x naturally foll[s t all ! simil> ?icknesses ( /alk are toge!r1 & !re=e ! process ( sort+ becomes a fairly spe$y "o4 ,! cut l5g?s n[ become /raw pipes1 & !y are fir/ plac$ on ! l>ge/ end 9 ! l>ge/ grade sieve1 ! pipes small] ?an ! me% fall ?r\gh1 leav+ only ^? ( ! co>se/ dim5sions4 ,?is process is repeat$ until all ! v>y+ ?icknesses ( /raw h be5 sort$ into _! respective sizes4 ,!y are !n ti$ up c>efully into bundles ( ab\t #e ins4 9 diamet]1 & are ready = ! plaitt]4 ,9 ,italy1 :]e ! /raw is gr[n solely = plaitt+ purposes1 ! process be=e sort+ is a little diff]5t4 ,! s[+ ( corn 7,triticum turgidum1 or ,triticum oe/ivum1 :i* is a species ( rye7 is done v ?ickly1 s z to produce ?9 & %ort /alks4 ,x is ga!r$ :5 ! e> is 9 a s(t1 milky /ate be=e ! f9al /ages ( rip5+4 ,x is !n ?9ly spread ov] ! gr\nd 9 f9e1 hot wea!r1 & aft]w>ds ti$ 9 bundles & /ack$1 s t ! resultant heat may drive (f all moi/ure4 ,aft] rema9+ /ack$ = ab\t a mon?1 x is spread out & expos$ to ! action ( dew1 sun & air1 9 ord] to blea* x4 ,dur+ ! exposure1 :i* v>ies accord+ to necessity1 ! /alks are frequ5tly turn$4 ,:5 ! blea*+ process is suffici5tly complete1 ! l[] jo9t ( ! /raw /ripp$ ( its outside ?9 %ea? is divid$ f ! upp] "o1 :i* is /ill all[$ to reta9 ! e>4 ,?is process provides ! punta & ! p$ale4 ,! /raw is !n subject$ to ! action ( /eam & ! fumes ( sulphur4 ,:5 ?is blea*+ process is complete ! assortm5t into sizes by sieves takes place1 & ! grad$ /raws are !n ready = use4 ,f ?is /age = mak+ plaits ( ! :ole or unsplit /raw1 ! processes adopt$ by bo? ,engl& & ,italy are 9 ! ma9 id5tical2 ,italy1 h[ev]1 has n g5]ally adopt$ ! splitt+ processes = plait mak+ on acc\nt ( ! f95ess ( h] /raws4 ,b ! ,briti% plaitt] res]ves ! sulphur blea*+ ( ! /raws until ! plait is actually made1 =1 ) ! excell5t col\r ( ! /raw1 9 _m cases ?is c be disp5s$ ) until ! ne$ = hat mak+ arises4 ,! fir/ processes ( plaitt+1 ei!r ( hats or ( braid1 7 und\bt$ly ( ! unsplit /alks1 & all 8,engli% :ole /raw0 plaits 7 s made4 ,x has be5 %[n h[ & :y ! splitt+ ( /raws arose4 ,! plaitt]1 hav+ det]m9$ on ! v>iety ( plait to be made1 acquir$ a suffici5cy ( suitable siz$ pipes4 ,) ! splitt]1 ! po9t ( :i*1 ins]t$ 9 ! end ( ! /raw1 & press$ d[nw>ds1 ! tube ( /raw com+ aga9/ ! radially set cutt]s1 ! pipes 7 divid$ into spl9ts ( equal wid?s ( a f95ess accord+ to ! plaitt]'s requirem5ts4 ,^! 7 !n wett$ s z to r5d] !m a little t\gh] & m am5able = manipulation & b5d+4 ,! plaitt]1 ) a bundle ( spl9ts "u ! left arm1 & g5]ally a few 9 ! m\?1 ?r\gh ! lips ( :i* !y are drawn to keep moi/1 comm5ces op]ations4 ,any description ( all ! me?ods ( plaitt+ w\ld be t$i\s1 all ! op]ations consi/+ ( a con/ant "u & ov] lock+ ( ! spl9ts1 b 9 ! split /raw mak+ ( ! 8,pat5t ,dun/able0 ! plaitt+1 in/ead ( be+ ( ei!r "o /raw or spl9t1 is ( two1 wett$ & laid toge!r1 & 9 ! v>ieties kn[n z 8,splits0 ! spl9ts are plaitt$ s+ly1 leav+ alt]nately1 or 9 a spac$ patt]n1 accord+ to ! design requir$1 ! inside & ! outside ( ! /raw2 ! outside ( silicate be+ %9y1 & ! inside ) its slight pi? 7or rice z x is t]m$7 be+ dull4 ,! 8,:ole ,/raw ,dun/able10 ! fir/ plait made 9 ! neighb\rhood1 0 ( sev5 entire /raws1 8,pat5t ,dun/able0 or 8,twi/0 0 ( sev5 d\bl$ /r&s1 or ends1 =m$ ( f\rte5 spl9ts4 ,rice simil>ly made1 b ) ! spl9ts inside out1 mak+ a plait ( a dull :ite :i* 0 ext5sively us$ = bonnets = w$d+s4 8,split0 0 =m$ ( sev5 s+le split /raws1 pres5t+ ! v>i$ appe>ance m5tion$ above1 & 0 naturally ! lighte/ ( ,briti% f9e plaits4 8,luton0 0 made l 8,pat5t ,dun/able10 b )\t ! 8,twi/0 head1 mak+ a flat plait simil> to split b ) bo? sides alike4 8,b$=d10 made ( elev5 s+le or elev5 d\ble ends ( tw5ty-two spl9ts1 simil> to & 9 imitation ( ! ,italian plait 8#aa-;end ,tuscan10 & 8,ru/ic10 a plait ( f\r :ole or split /raws plaitt$ to %[ po9t$ s]rations on bo? edges4 ,^! plaits =m ! base f :i* all o!r /raw plaits h develop$2 _! composition & me?ods are to be f\nd 9 e v>iety :e!r made 9 ,great ,brita9 or abroad1 & al?\gh o!r h&-made plaits h l>g] or small] numb]s ( 8ends0 7f ?ree to almo/ any numb] upw>ds7 _! basis ( treatm5t rema9s ! same4 ,! two prim>y homes ( plaitt+ /raws into braids1 ,italy & ,great ,brita91 _h _m features 9 common 9 ! conditions & me?ods by :i* ! plait 0 made4 ,9 bo? c\ntries ! :ole ( ! indu/ry 0 c>ri$ on by peasants & _! wives4 ,! males1 :o 7 g5]ally agricultural lab\r]s or small trad]s 9 rural di/ricts1 = ! ma9 "p saw to ! gr[+ ( ! /raws & _! prep>ation & di/ribution = plaitt+1 foll[$ aft] ! braids 7 made by ! m>ket+ ( ! "w done by _! female fri5ds or relations4 ,9 "s di/ricts1 su* z ! environs ( ,flor5ce & ( ! ,s\? ,b$s & neighb\r+ c\nties1 ^! occupations 7 ( su* magnitude z to give con/ant employm5t to _m4 ,9 all ! di/ricts ! ma9 lab\r ( plaitt+ 0 und]tak5 by ! wom5folk1 al?\gh m5 at times took a h&1 & 9 ! middle ( ! n9ete5? c5tury x 0 a real feature ( village life 9 ! plaitt+ c5tres1 to see ! good wives & daught]s1 aft] ! h\sehold "w 0 done1 /&+ at _! cottage doors1 swiftly & dext]\sly plaitt+ & at ! same "t di/ribut+ t g5tle & yet satisfy+ gossip t 0 s de> to ru/ic life4 ,9 ?is mann] by f> ! great] bulk ( ! plaits ( ,italy & ,great ,brita9 7 made1 al?\gh 9 ! latt] c\ntry s9ce ab\t #ahbe1 "s extra means ( production 7 employ$4 ,in/ead ( ! art be+ taught f "m to daught]1 z 0 ! e>li] practice1 s*ools ( plaitt+ 7 in/itut$4 ,^! 7 g5]ally arrang$ 9 ! cottage home ( "o ( ! mo/ exp]t plaitt]s1 :o = a small fee taught ! y\?ful aspirants all ! intricacies ( ! trade1 :ile at ! same "t ! in/ructor contriv$ to keep at "w on h] own p>ticul> plaitt+4 ,! view ( a portion ( a plaitt+ village1 on a f9e day1 ) its g5]ally picturesque surr\nd+s fram+ an active ru/ic gr\p ( wom5 engag$ 9 plaitt+1 0 su* z %\ld h comm5d$ itself to _m an arti/1 yet /range to say ! pictures extant ( ei!r ,italian or ,briti% plaitt+ sc5es are v few & f> betwe54 ,^! pleasant1 pa/oral occupations seem to h gone = ev] f ,great ,brita91 al?\gh "o may /ill see 9 ,italy ! once famili> signs4 ,h& plaitt+ has migrat$ to ! ,f> ,ea/1 & !re 9 ,*9a & ,japan "o c to-day see1 ) ! *anges consequ5t on ! diff]5t sett+ ( ! sc5es1 ! sights :i* sev5ty-five ye>s ago 7 common to ! c\ntryside ar\nd ,dun/able1 ,hemel ,hemp/ead1 & ,luton4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f ,,/raw ,,plaitt]s ,,at ,,"w--,a ,,b$=d%ire ,,village ,,sc5e ,,9 #ahgj ,ma*9e-made /raw plaits h nev] be5 produc$ 9 quantities 9 ,engl&1 al?\gh pat5ts = plaitt+ h be5 tak5 out2 b 9 ,italy & ,switz]l& ma*9]y has be5 9 use s9ce #ahdj1 produc+ plaits ( /raw mix$ ) o!r fibres1 su* z horsehair or silk4 ,fiesole1 a village ne> ,flor5ce1 became a c5tre ( ma*9e-made plaits ( ,tuscan /raw wov5 9 ,wattle fa%ion ) /r&s ( silk & cotton1 & gave its "n to all simil>ly made plaits4 ,! o!r cont95tal c5tres mak+ /raw plaits 7 ,switz]l& & ,belgium4 ,by ! =m] practically all ! /raws us$ 7 import$ f ,italy1 only q a small portion be+ home gr[n2 b ,belgium produc$ "s beautiful /raws1 & ! 8,split0 & 8,pip+0 made 9 t c\ntry h nev] be5 surpass$4 ,! 8#g end cord10 ( same detail z 8,pat5t ,dun/able10 al?\gh excell5t 9 make & col\r1 miss$ ! %>p twi/$ head 7f :5ce ! "n 8,twi/07 peculi> to ! ,briti% made article1 ! /raws be+ ( too s(t a nature to reta9 ! desir$ effect ?r\gh\t ! hat-mak+ processes4 ,! me?ods ( ga!r+ & prep>+ ! /raws 9 ,belgium closely foll[$ ! ,briti%4 ,*9a1 ! fir/ ,f> ,ea/]n /raw plait competitor1 is able to c\nt on almo/ limitless quantities ( /raw1 & ! plaits made !re are1 z f> z appe>ance is conc]n$1 second to none4 ,b :ile ! ,briti% plaitt] ins]ts only "o or say two /raws at a "t1 ! ,*9ese frequ5tly ins]t :at is kn[n z ! :ole sett2 ?is naturally causes a great] weakness at ! junction ?an is f\nd 9 ,briti% plait1 & = t reason _m ,*9ese patt]ns1 al?\gh beautiful to look at1 are v difficult to "w1 & ! probability ( "s ( ^! setts com+ undone & ! consequ5t ragg$ness ( ! speels 7z ! loose ends are call$7 make ^! plaits undesirable = ! highe/ class "w4 ,b ! ,*9ese1 al?\gh n too adaptable1 are no?+ if n deft1 & a few makes ( plait are put on ! m>ket1 :i* f _! alt]$ 8sett+0 are kn[n z 8speelless40 8,speelless ,maslimpo10 an imitation 9 v f9e :ole /raws ( ,italian #g ends p$al is "o ( ! mo/ beautiful f9e plaits made1 & al?\gh x seldom entirely ju/ifies its adjective1 9 ! ma9 x is ! lea/ difficult ,*9ese plait to "w up4 ,! me?ods employ$ by ! cele/ials 9 prep>+ ! /raws are tantam\nt to ^? employ$ 9 ,brita91 & ! me?ods ( splitt+ !m are id5tical4 ,japan occupies a unique position 9 ! cultivation & production ( /raws = plaitt+4 ,! soil is extremely f]tile1 & ! geological condition ( ! c\ntry is volcanic4 ,! /raws :5 gr[n atta9 to a great size ( tube1 ev5 z mu* z #a_/c ( an in* 9 diamet]1 & plaits h be5 made ( ,japanese /raws1 split only 9 "o place1 :i* :5 op5$ out =m a spl9t an in* wide1 mak+ braids ( only #d or #e ends1 ab\t #c ins4 9 wid?4 ,! volcanic nature ( ! c\ntry seems to h p]meat$ ! soil ) "s blea*+ ag5t4 ,sulphur is usually a product ( volcanic eruption1 & al?\gh its fumes are deadly to ! gr[? ( c]eals1 /raws gr[n on volcanic soil acquire a col\r :i* is unobta9able else:]e4 ,& ! col\r ( ! ,japanese /raw is entirely unlike1 & at ! same "t va/ly bett] ?an1 any o!r kn[n v>iety4 ,its rapid gr[? also eng5d]s a special lightness ( weight1 & al?\gh n t\gh z ! ,italian or ,briti%1 x is suffici5tly s = any plaitt+ purposes4 ,9 ?is case ! prep>ation ( /raws = work+ is simply ! dry+ & sort+4 ,c]eals only h z yet be5 describ$1 b two o!r vegetable products c almo/ claim by us] to be class$ z /raws1 z ! /raw hat mak+ indu/ry has adopt$ !m 9 a v :ole-he>t$ mann]4 ,"o ( ! fir/ vegetable plaits1 o!r ?an ^? ( actual /raw1 0 made ( f9e spl9ts ( ! wood ( will[4 ,?is 0 suffici5tly season$ 9 plank1 a f9ely plan$ surface obta9$1 & a plan+ cutt]1 ) scor+ knives set to ! requisite wid?1 0 made to take a v ?9 %av+4 ,?is naturally produc$ ! %av+ 9 v n>r[ /rips t 7 ! m$ia f :i* #c ends1 #e ends1 #g ends & #i ends 8,*ip0 7 plaitt$ by h&4 ,also wid] spl9ts ( will[ %av+s 7 us$ to make fancy patt]ns ( plait1 ! numb] ( :i* is legion4 ,?is bran* ( ! indu/ry emanat$ f ,italy1 & ,saxony & ! ,black ,=e/ subsequ5tly did "s bus9ess 9 *ip plaits1 b _! %av+s 7 n equal to ! ,italian1 be+ m woolly & less glossy1 & !y enjoy$ ma9ly a local success4 ,ab\t #ahij ! ,japanese began to make *ip plaits1 _! wood 0 equal to ! ,italians1 & _! prices va/ly l[]1 s t = "s ye>s1 :ile ! plait kn[n z 8#c ends ,*ip0 monopoliz$ ! great bulk ( ! hat mak+ requirem5ts1 ,italy & ,japan 7 ke5 competitors4 ,z 9 ! bir?place ( *ip plaits1 s 9 ,japan 7 subsequ5tly made all k9ds ( fancy designs1 :i* = "s "t ne>ly ext+ui%$ ! ,italian trade4 ,! o!r vegetable fibre is hemp4 ,?is 0 fir/ us$ by ! ,swiss 9 ! manufacture ( a ma*9e made braid simil> 9 appe>ance to ! h& plaitt$ #i or #g end *ips4 ,! fibre f :i* ! fir/ braids 7 wov5 0 d]iv$ f an aloe-l plant ,sansavi]a ,zeylanica 7or b[ /r+ hemp7 :i* grew 9 ! isl& ( ,java 9 a di/rict call$ ,tgal4 ,?is p>ticul> hemp :5 prep>$ 0 exce$+ly lu/r\s & t\gh1 & :5 put on ! m>ket 9 braids 0 call$ by ! "n ( its native place4 ,! "n has be5 corrupt$ into sev]al =ms1 ,tagal1 ,tagel1 ,tagle1 etc41 b ! prop] "n is ,tgal1 & ?is is /ill reta9$ by ! ,fr5*1 :ile 9 ,engl& ! mo/ popul> =m is ,tagal4 ,! me?od ( weav+ 0 to plait into braids1 /r&s =m$ ( "o1 two or ?ree1 or ev5 m fibres ( ! hemp1 & plaits 7 m>ket$ convey+ ^? features1 su* z 8#ac_/b0 7:i* meant #ac /r&s ( two fibres71 or 8#ac_/c0 7?irte5 /r&s ( #c fibres74 ,?is %oelace l braid 0 soon foll[$ by a design simil> to ,italian #g end ,p$al1 & 0 at fir/ kn[n z 8,tgal ,picot10 b is n[ m g5]ally call$ 8,p$al ,tagal40 ,:5 work$ ?is plait has a v close resemblance to its model1 & l all ! o!r hemp plaits1 w take a s(tly brilliant & regul> col\r$ dye4 ,! ,japanese soon copi$ all ^! ,tagal braids & quickly made x almo/ impossible = any o!r competitor1 al?\gh at fir/ _! reproductions 7 extremely faulty4 ,:ile ,italy1 t also made hemp plaits1 & ,switz]l& yet enjoy a small trade1 x is probable t at lea/ #ie p] c5t ( ,p$al ,tagal emanates f ! 8,l& ( ! ,ris+ ,sun10 :i* has f\nd means to utilize o!r v>ieties ( hemp1 & has also incorporat$ silk fibres into ! plaitt+1 & at ! same "t is n[ produc+ qualities t are n surpass$ by ei!r ( ! ,european v>ieties4 ,! only m]it ( cont95tal ,tagal above ! ,japanese is t ! braids are some:at firm] & squ>] 9 make4 ,hemp fibres1 l almo/ all o!rs1 h be5 ext5sively us$1 ei!r by !mselves or 9 conjunction ) o!r mat]ials1 9 mak+ fancy braids ( a ?\s& & "o v>ieties4 ,"o feature ( all ,tagal plaits is t !re is no o!r kn[n m$ium :i* comb9es su* t\ghness & we>-resi/+ qualities4 ,fur!r1 plaits h be5 made f ! naturally produc$ vegetable fibres1 ,raffia1 ,cuba ,ba/1 ,y$da 7a p>ticul>ly light /ripp+ f an exotic plant71 ,s9net or ,palm leaf1 ,ru%es ( all k9ds1 & v>i\s simil> gr[?s4 ,me*anically prep>$ fibres f vegetable gr[?s su* z cotton1 jute1 etc41 h be5 press$ into ! mak+ ( v>i\s braids ( close & op5 designs1 :ile silk & imitation silks ( cellulose nature h enjoy$ great popul>ity z plaits = mak+ fancy hats4 ,! only purely animal product us$ 9 mak+ plaits is horsehair4 ,?is mat]ial1 s extremely lik$ by ! highe/ classes ( we>]s1 is n[ mo/ difficult to obta9 ow+ to ! rise ( ! motor c> & ! subsequ5t decl9e ( ! horse1 b 9 spite ( its orig9 x has be51 s9ce at lea/ sixty ye>s1 includ$ z "o ( ! mat]ials t c be classifi$ z a 8/raw hat40 ,all ! plaits m5tion$1 ) v few exceptions1 su* z ! cellulose1 visca1 cotton or black horsehair v>ieties1 require blea*+ or dye+ be=e be+ ready = sew+4 ,9 a few cases ^! processes take place :]e ! plait is made1 b g5]ally speak+ !y are done at ! places :]e plaits are made into hats4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,/raw ,,hoods--,,me?od ,,( ,,prep>+ ,,& ,,( ,,weav+ ,,! ,,fibres ,! previ\s *apt] has dealt ) ! mat]ials us$ 9 plait & ! incid5tal processes necess>y to ! prep>ation ( ! fibres1 because plait is und\bt$ly at ! pres5t day ! pr9cipal m$ium = ! fa%ionable /raw hat4 ,z ! op5+ *apt] proves1 ! e>lie/ p]iods ( ! use ( vegetable fibres = head cov]+s 7 entirely devot$ to ! weav+ ( ! hat 9 "o piece1 z1 = example1 a basket is wov54 ,9 fact1 ! use ( plait braid has be5 adopt$ only = ab\t #djj ye>s1 b1 al?\gh l>ge quantities ( wov5 hats /ill cont9ue to be made1 plait has gradually tak5 ! premi] place4 ,b any description ( ! /raw hat trade w\ld be incomplete )\t a prop] acc\nt ( ! wov5 hat or 8hood10 z x is t]m$ 9 ! trade1 ! ^w 8hat0 imply+ ! f9i%$ article4 ,9 ! fir/ place ! fibres t c be made into plait c also be made into hoods1 = any fibre capable ( be+ manipulat$ 9 plaitt+ c be wov54 7,! t]m 8wov50 is us$ 9 want ( a bett]1 because ! action ne$$ is really m :at is g5]ally kn[n z 8weav+0 ?an 8plaitt+10 al?\gh bo? processes are done by h&1 ) "o or two m9or exceptions47 ,!re are1 h[ev]1 sev]al fibres t are wov5 into hoods t are n g5]ally utiliz$ = mak+ plaits1 al?\gh q suitable1 b _! nature is su* z to dem& a diff]5t prep>atory treatm5t to any ( ^? ess5tially /raw4 ,^! are ! 8,panama0 & ! ,panama imitations or sub/itutes4 ,among ! sub/itutes are 8,curaoas10 8,b[5s10 8,jipi-,japas10 etc42 & ! imitations are 8,javas10 8,bankoks10 8,brazilians10 8,manilas0 & 8,pap] ,panamas0 made f /rips ( pap] roll$ to imitate1 & !y d imitate v closely1 ! natural fibre us$ 9 ! real ,panama4 ,a description ( ! true 8,panama0 fibre w give an insight into ! nature ( all ! sub/itutes1 ! prep>ations = weav+ be+ ne>ly id5tical 9 e case4 ,! orig9 ( ! ,panama hat is obscur$ 9 oblivion1 b ! s\rce ( supply ranges r\nd ab\t ,c5tral ,am]ica1 & f ,ecuador claims are made t 9 ! prov9ce ( ,manavi1 a native nam$ ,francisco ,delgado fir/ made a ,panama hat ab\t #cjj ye>s ago4 ,?is v ,spani% "n = a native evokes a suspicion t ! date giv5 0 ! fir/ ,spani% record ( ! matt]1 = x is mo/ probable t ! mak+ ( grass fibre hats 9 ! ,we/]n ,hemisph]e 01 l x has be5 %[n to be 9 ! ,ea/]n1 ( ! mo/ remote antiquity4 ,b rese>*es made by our ,consul> ,(fice c only supply ! above in=mation4 ,! mat]ial us$ is d]iv$ f a k9d ( native palm or palm grass kn[n z paja toquilla1 & resembles1 9 its fan l %ape1 ! saw palmetto4 ,cultivation usually takes place 9 select$ l[-hung wet l&s1 & ! se$ is plant$ 9 r[s dur+ ! ra9y season4 ,:5 ! grass atta9s a height ( #d-a_/b to #e ft41 x is cut j be=e rip5+1 boil$ 9 wat]1 & aft] be+ ?or\ghly dri$ 9 ! sun1 is sort$ ?r\gh v c>efully4 ,! actual selection ( fibres = ! be/ class hat is mo/ ?or\gh1 & all unlikely leaves are reject$4 ,^? f9ally select$ are 9 "s di/ricts1 su* z ,manavi1 damp5$ ) wat] to make !m t\gh1 pliable1 & am5able to /ripp+ into ! requir$ wid?s4 ,9 ,columbia1 :]e ! 8,palmi*a0 is us$1 ! leaves are boil$ = a c]ta9 "t till !y s(t5 & turn a light yell[ 9 col\r4 ,?is process ( boil+ is an art 9 itself1 & seems to pres5t great] difficulties )\t correspond+ advantages to ! simple damp+4 ,! leaves done by ei!r me?od are !n sep>at$ & hung to dry 9 a curr5t ( air1 b n 9 ! sun4 ,be=e !y are q dry ! splitt+ op]ation comm5ces2 ?is is /ill done 9 "s di/ricts 9 ! primitive me?od by ! ?umb-nail ( ! op]ator1 9 o!rs a ,y-%ap$ wood5 tool is us$4 ,! spl9ts1 :5 be+ split are made to curl slightly at ! edges1 caus+ ! fibre to assume a r\ndness4 ,! subsequ5t dry+ causes ?is r\ndness to become p]man5t4 ,!y are !n made into suitable bundles1 & wrapp$ 9 clean damp clo?s to protect !m f ! dry atmosph]e z well z f ! light4 ,! hood weav]s comm5ce at ! apex ( cr[n & cont9ue ! weav+ 9 a circul> & transv]se mann]1 until ! edge ( ! brim is rea*$1 :5 a d\ble 8return0 is made to give /r5g? & =m to ! hat4 ,"s c5tres use wood5 blocks1 on :i* ! hood is %ap$ dur+ its progress ( weav+1 o!rs foll[ simply ! primitive me?od ( rule ( ?umb1 b dur+ late ye>s ! dem& = l>g] head entries to ,panama hats has caus$ a m g5]al us+ ( ei!r ! wood5 block or a suitable template 9 ord] t ! size ( ! cr[ns may be m uni=m4 ,9 "s places ! v>i\s p>ts ( ! hood are made by diff]5t op]atives1 ?us ! cr[n or ! top only may be wov5 by "o1 ! side ( cr[n by ano!r1 & ! brim by a ?ird2 g5]ally !re are two4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #g ,,panama ,,hood ,,mak+--,,typical ,,( ,,"w ,,on ,,all ,,wov5 ,,/raw ,,hats ,9 ord] to a*ieve ! be/ results ! weav+ has to be done 9 a v humid atmosph]e1 & to take advantage ( t condition1 & to ensure cont9uity1 ! "w is sometimes accompli%$ betwe5 midnight & #g a4m4 dur+ ! dry season4 ,"s writ]s on ?is subject ass]t t ,panamas are wov5 "u wat]1 ! op]ator us+ a b[l2 "s may h be51 b ?is 0 probably a freak exp]im5t1 z 9 all ! _m di/ricts :]e hats ( ?is k9d are made ! only desid]atum is full natural humidity4 ,:5 ! hood is f9i%$ ! ends or 8speels0 ( ! /r&s1 :]e ! setts-9 & ! setts-out take place1 are c>efully p>$ (f ) a %>p knife or scissors1 & ! hat is batt]$ all ov] ) a small wood5 mace 9 ord] to make x z smoo? z possible4 ,x is !n wa%$1 9 "s places ) clean cold wat] only1 9 o!rs ) soap & wat]1 & 9 "s ) soap & wat] comb9$ ) lime-juice2 dry+ 9 ! sun completes ! op]ations ( mak+ ! hood4 ,:at are "h kn[n z 8,jipi ,japas0 are s closely alli$ to ! true ,panama t only an exp]t c diff]5tiate betwe5 !m4 ,! mat]ial us$ is almo/ always id5tical & is prep>$ 9 ! same way4 ,!re is1 h[ev]1 a slight diff]5ce 9 ! me?od ( weav+1 & ! f9i% g5]ally speak+1 is n ( su* a high /&>d4 ,!y are made pr9cipally 9 ! prov9ce ( ,manavi1 9 ,ecuador4 ,ano!r v>iety1 v simil>1 tak+ its "n f ! di/rict 9 :i* x is made1 is call$ 8,suaza40 ,! really f9e specim5s ( ! ,panama hat appe> to be produc$ 9 ,columbia1 & are made 9 ! dep>tm5ts ( ,sant&]1 ,antisquia1 ,cauca1 & ,tolima4 ,! local g5]ic "n = all ^! hoods is 8,jipi-,japa10 b ! "n 8,panama0 0 appli$ to !m because ,panama 0 ! port f :i* !y 7 %ipp$1 & ?is "n = ! be/ quality obta9s g5]ally ?r\gh\t ! _w4 ,a really f9e hood w\ld take two or ?ree mon?s to make1 b ! bulk probably d n exce$ two or ?ree weeks' "w4 ,"s di/ricts look to ! mak+ z regul> employm5t1 & ! op]atives "w ! :ole available "t 9 ! day1 :ile o!rs reg>d x z a side l9e1 & utilize only _! sp>e "t4 ,a v simil> arrangem5t to ?is 0 common among ! /raw plaitt]s ( ,engl&1 & 9 bo? cases ! bulk ( ! work]s 7 wom54 ,latt]ly 9 ! ,c5tral ,am]ican ,/ates m5 h be5 m employ$ 9 ! indu/ry4 ,! 8,curaoa0 7or z x %\ld prop]ly be spelt ,curaao7 comes f ! isl& ( ! same "n 9 ! ,c>ibbean ,sea4 ,:5 made ! hoods are ( a light creamy fawn col\r1 & are made out ( fibres import$ f ! neighb\r+ ma9l& ( ,v5ezuela4 ,! me?od ( weav+ is simil> to t ( ,panama hats1 b ! /r&s are ( a mu* co>s] texture4 8,b[5s0 or 8,p&ans0 are made pr9cipally by ,*9ese lab\r 9 ! isl& ( ,sumatra4 ,!y are g5]ally1 al?\gh "s are ( split fibres1 made ( a :ole natural raffia-l grass :i* is indig5\s4 ,!y are extremely l[ 9 price1 & al?\gh co>se look+ are v s]viceable hats4 ,:5 prop]ly blea*$1 aft] go+ ?r\gh a v>iety ( *emical col\r *anges1 !y assume an excell5t :ite4 ,ano!r v>iety ( hood1 ( :i* only a limit$ quantity h be5 us$1 ow+ to its _m undesirable features1 is ! 8,h9oki40 ,?is is made ( ,*9ese raffia by native lab\r1 & is simil> to ! 8,b[510 b ! nature ( ! fibre is su* z to make x decid$ly inf]ior among ! ,panama imitations4 8,javas0 are p]haps ! mo/ peculi> & wond]ful 9 _! work+4 ,!y are made ( p]fectly flat spl9ts obta9$ f bamboo-l palms1 & are wov5 9 all degrees ( f95ess1 b _! great peculi>ity lies 9 ! fact t !y are d\ble1 ! hoods :5 m>ket$ hav+ a f9ely wov5 ext]ior & an inside l9+ mu* co>s] 9 texture atta*$ only to ! out] "o at ! edge ( ! brim4 ,at "o "t !y comm&$ a l>ge trade1 b dem& = !m has greatly dim9i%$ 9 ,europe4 8,bankoks0 are simil>ly flat spl9t hoods ( "o ?ickness1 b ! fibre ( :i* !y are compos$ is an inn] "o1 ! out] & h>d] portion be+ tak5 away4 ,!y h ! m]it ( extreme lightness ( weight & c be successfully dy$ 9 any col\r b ) little %e54 8,brazilians0 are n unlike 8,javas10 b are ( "o ?ickness only1 & ! fibre us$ is m /ubborn ?an t ( ! 8,java40 8,manilas0 are also wov5 9 l mann] to a ,panama1 b !y c be obta9$ bo? s+le & d\ble l a 8,java40 ,! fibre us$ = !m is hemp1 ! 8spl9ts0 ( :i* are f9e /rips ( two or m /r&s ( hemp laid flat4 ,?is v>iety ( hood is capable ( be+ dy$ to any col\r1 & unlike ei!r ( its confrres1 has a brilliant %e5 :5 f9i%$4 ,all ^! 8imitations0 d]ive _! "n 9 "s way f _! places or ports ( orig94 8,pap] ,panamas0 are ! late/ ,japanese production1 imitat+ "s models fir/ made 9 ,france4 ,by appe>ance alone !y c h>dly be select$ f ! real article except to exp]ts1 x is only ! diff]5ce 9 weight & great] regul>ity ( col\r1 t discloses _! nature4 ,b !y h n ! same we>+ capabilities1 = :ile a real ,panama c1 & (t5 does1 la/ long] ?an its we>]'s lifetime1 ! %am "o is ne>ly wor?less aft] ! fir/ season's use4 ,o!r hoods are made ( 8*ip0 7g5]ally ( wid] spl9ts ?an ^? us$ = mak+ plait72 ( 8ru%10 8y$da10 8raffia10 & o!r simil> mat]ials1 9 fact ea* succe$+ season g5]ally sees "s novelty ( fibre introduc$4 ,( ru% hoods !re are two v>ieties1 "o ( ! f9e1 r h>d1 b v t\gh ru%es t usually gr[ 9 ,engl& by ! wayside2 ^! are made 9 ! greate/ quantities 9 ,*9a1 & wond]ful +5uity is display$ 9 _! f9i%4 ,! o!r v>iety is t ( ! pi?y 8ru%0 su* z "o may ga!r 9 ! ,f5s1 & :i* is to be f\nd 9 quantities 9 ! ,lomb>dy m>%es2 ^! are us$ = mak+ bo? plait & hoods :i* are v light 9 weight4 8,y$da0 is ! inn] cuticle ( an exotic plant1 :i* has great t\ghness & is v light 9 weight1 b1 ow+ to ! gr[? ( ! plant1 c only be obta9$ 9 v %ort l5g?s1 ?is ( necessity mak+ bo? plaitt+ & weav+ m difficult4 8,raffia0 is ! sub/ance kn[n to g>d5]s1 & makes an excell5t m$ium = plait & hoods on acc\nt ( its lightness1 its t\ghness & ! great l5g? ( its /aple4 ,!re are o!r natural fibres t h be5 utiliz$ = hood weav+ by h&1 b ! above-m5tion$ are ! pr9cipal ones4 ,9 addition !re are "s hoods made ( ma*9e wov5 plait ( hemp1 cotton1 silk1 or imitation silk fibres4 ,al?\gh ! fir/ nam$ is frequ5tly work$ alone1 ! o!rs are g5]ally wov5 ) o!r mat]ials4 ,a hood ( /raws ma*9e wov5 ) ! aid ( a cotton1 hemp1 or silk fibre emanates f ,switz]l& & ,italy1 & is extremely light 9 weight4 ,sometimes ! /raws are utiliz$ :ole 9 ^! hoods1 b m g5]ally !y are split4 ,9 bo? cases ! /raws are dy$ or blea*$ be=e weav+4 ,all ^! hoods are utiliz$ = mak+ m5's or ladies' hats1 & except 9 a few cases !y are import$ 9 ! natural col\r1 requir+ blea*+ or dye+ be=e ent]+ ! actual hat mak+ process4 ,x is p]haps necess>y to add t hoods ( spl9ts cut f palm leaves import$ f ,cuba1 7 made dur+ "s ye>s at ,/4 ,albans4 ,! result 0 simil> to a 8,brazilian0 79 fact1 !y w5t "u t "n71 be+ wov5 by h& 9 ! villages r\nd ! city1 & block$ into prop] %ape & trimm$ 9 ! ,/4 ,albans factories4 ,! trade langui%$ :5 ,fr5* competition arose1 ,/rasburg & ,nancy be+ ! mo/ successful ,european competitors4 8,panamas0 or hoods made f ! fibre import$ f ! ,we/ ,indies h also be5 made 9 ^! la/ m5tion$ c5tres4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,/raw ,,plait ,,& ,,plaitt+ ,hav+ briefly describ$ ! nature (1 & me?od ( prep>ation ( v>i\s plaits & hoods1 "s detail$ acc\nt ( ! me?od ( work+ ^? :i* h l>gely contribut$ to ! creation & augm5tation ( ! ,/raw ,hat ,trade w be necess>y4 ,! fir/ plaits made 71 z has already be5 said1 ( :ole pieces ( ru% or /raw4 ,!y 7 pla9ly plaitt$ )\t any attempt at produc+ :at is t]m$ a 8head10 i4e4 ! /raws or ru%es 7 simply fold$ ov] flatly at ! edge ( ! plait4 ,plaits 7 made ( v>y+ numb]s ( 8ends0 or pieces ( /raw1 f ?ree to sev5 0 probably ! fav\rite scale4 ,! 8ends10 let u say ?ree1 are fa/5$ toge!r by twi/+ 9 a fanlike mann]1 ! "r-h& "o is fir/ b5t "u t[>ds ! left 9 a flat fold at a widi% angle1 "u ! middle 8end10 ?is !n becomes p>allel to ! left h& 8end0 :i* 9 its turn is fold$ "u ! n[ middle end t[>ds ! "r1 becom+ consequ5tly p>allel to ! "r-h& 8end02 ?is completes ! op]ation1 :i* to make l5g?s ( plait is repeat$ ad libitum4 ,! plait produc$ is n[ kn[n z 8#c ends pla940 ,to make a 8head0 on "o edge ( ! plait1 in/ead ( fold+ flatly f ! "r1 a 8twi/0 or half turn is giv5 to ! 8end0 at ! extreme edge & po9t ( turn1 be=e fold+ "u ! middle /r&2 z ?is always to a c]ta9 ext5t buckles ! r\nd pipe ( /raw or ru%1 a %ell l effect is produc$ :i* greatly adds to ! effectiv5ess ( ! plait1 & is call$ 8,twi/0 or 8,picot0 edge4 ,to make 8five ends0 plait1 five /r&s are requir$2 ^! are also set out 9 a fan l %ape1 b f\r ( ! ends lie p>allel t[>ds ! "r1 & "o only t[>ds ! left2 ! plaitt+ beg9s by turn+ ) ei!r ! twi/$ or ! flat fold1 ! "r h& 8end0 "u ! 8end0 ne>e/ to x1 ov] ! next "o1 & "u ! ?ird1 :5 ! left h& 8end0 is turn$ "u ! "o j br\ght f ! "r1 :i* !n becomes ! left h& 8end10 aga9 beg9n+ ) ! n[ "r h& 8end0 & repeat+ ! op]ation z be=e4 ,^! two processes =m ! basis = all plaitt+1 & al?\gh any numb] ( 8ends0 may be us$ up to ! hold+ capacity ( ! plaitt] & al?\gh any *ange ( mak+ ! 8head0 may be adopt$1 ! "u & ov] me?od is common to all plaitt+ ( braids & hoods4 ,! dem& = novelty has caus$ _m v>iations to be creat$2 ! 8,twi/0 head has be5 describ$1 9 addition !re are ! 8"o0 8two0 or 8?ree0 or ev5 m 8,purl0 7or 8,pe>l07 heads4 ,a 8,purl0 is a d\ble k9d ( 8,twi/0 :i* may occur at e o!r head or great] int]vals4 ,?is twi/ consi/s ( two ( ! /r&s or split /raws be+ turn$ spirally = a suffici5t l5g? to =m a little half %ell at ! edge ( ! plait1 ! fur!r l5g? ( ! /r& be+ plaitt$ into ! foot at ! desir$ di/ance1 giv+ to ! f9i%$ braid1 :i* is g5]ally ( a n>r[ wid?1 a v pretty effect4 ,ano!r v>iety ( head :i* has diff]5t applications ( ! same pr9ciple is kn[n z 8,fea!r40 ,?is1 al?\gh x c be made ) :ole /raws1 is g5]ally1 & is mo/ effective1 made ) split /raws1 & its patt]n is a loop or loops ( a slightly curv$ nature =m$ on ! edge ( ! plait by all[+ ! "r h& 8end0 or 8ends0 to miss "o or m turns ( plaitt+1 s t :5 at regul> int]vals x is1 or !y are1 loosely br\ght into use1 !y w =m a k9d ( scallop$ edge to ! plait4 ,!re are also heads :i* are kn[n by ! numb] ( times plaitt+ is miss$ to create a fancy edge4 ,^! v>y f two to t51 & are made f a suffici5t numb] ( 8ends0 to leave ! head ( 8,"u-two0 or 8,"u-t50 or int]m$iate numb]s1 z ! case may be1 ) a suffici5t 8foot0 to keep ! plait firm = work+2 ! resultant appe>ance ( ?is me?od is a pla9 succession ( p>allel /raws at ! plaitt+ angle to ! 8foot10 :i* gives1 :5 sewn1 ! 8foot0 be+ cov]$1 accord+ to ! m$ium us$1 an entirely 8matt0 or a brilliantly glossy surface4 ,^! 8"u0 plaits c be made ) any reasonable numb] ( 8ends10 b !y are seldom f\nd plaitt$ ) m ?an suffici5t to produce ! 8"u t540 ,9 ord] to pres]ve absolute regul>ity ( l5g? 9 ^! head /raws1 :i* are actually 89 ! air10 !y are turn$ ov] a suitable template1 be x ( bone1 metal1 or any ?9 h>d we>+ mat]ial2 ?is is )drawn z ! plaitt+ progresses to ! fur!r /ages ( developm5t1 b 9 "s cases1 especially ) split /raws1 :i* w\ld n reta9 any regul>ity )\t "s support1 ! template us$ is a /r& ( split /raw ( suffici5t wid? = ! numb] ( 8"u heads10 & is left 9 ! plait to =m a p]man5t /r5g!n] to ! patt]n4 ,x is completely hidd5 f sight by ! heads fold$ ov] x1 & al?\gh 9 ! wid] plaits x is v undesirable1 be+ extremely difficult to turn 9 small circles1 9 ! n>r[ grades ! objectionable features are m easily ov]come4 ,9 addition to ^!1 !re is ! 8saw0 edge1 a peculi>ity ( 8,ru/ics10 & ( :i*1 z its "n implies1 "o edge1 or bo? edges1 pres5t t angul> s]ration :i* is common to saws4 ,!re are also innum]able fancy edges1 hav+ z _! f\ndation "o or ! o!r ( ^! g5]ic patt]ns4 ,! 8,foot10 or o!r "p ( ! braid z di/9ct f ! head1 is made 9 s _m ways t room =bids any detail$ acc\nt3 "s plaits h none1 & "o ( ! mo/ rem>kable ( ?is v>iety may be describ$4 ,9 8,engli% ,brilliant10 a widi% plait made ( a v>y+ numb] ( ends1 !re is really no 8foot10 ! plait1 ( split /raws1 be+ all head or patt]n4 ,! individuality ( 8,brilliant0 is t once ! turn is effect$ ! split /raw in/ead ( lay+ flat across ! patt]n is made to /& on its edge1 giv+ to ! design a look simil> to a honeycomb2 ?is is probably ! lighte/ 9 weight ( any /raw made plait4 ,^! few types =m ! basis on :i* ne>ly all plaits are made by h&4 ,!re are1 ( c\rse1 _m o!rs 9 actual use1 "o n yet m5tion$ :i*1 al?\gh plaitt$ 9 ! same way z ord9>y flat head #g end braid1 is made ) s+le /r&s ( split /raw4 ,! result is a k9d ( *ess bo>d patt]n1 :i* %[s alt]nate squ>es ( ! outside & ! inside ( ! /raw4 ,?is has a g5]ic "n ( 8split10 & 0 "o ( ! e>lie/ developm5ts ( ,engli% plaitt+4 ,naturally1 x is v light 9 weight1 & enjoy$ a great sale = _m ye>s1 be+ mo/ suitable = 8,granny0 bonnets4 ,o!r plaits h be5 made ( :at is call$ 8,cord9ette40 ,?is consi/s ( two /r&s only1 & is plaitt$ "o ov] ! o!r 9 recurr+ fa%ion1 s z to make a k9d ( n>r[ conc]t9a4 ,x 0 at "o "t us$ = mak+ small bonnets1 b its g5]al application has be5 = ! embelli%m5t ( "s ( ! wid] grades ( plait4 ,! /raw plaits ( ,*9a1 & especially ,japan1 are all made on ! above l9es1 _! extra beauty & lightness1 comb9$ ) ! wid? ( /raw possibilities1 r5d]+ !m ! successful rivals to our insul> produce4 ,9 ^! ,f> ,ea/]n l&s _m fancy digressions ( plait mak+ h be5 made1 "s ( !m ( beautiful design & effect1 b all ( !m embody+ "o or m ( ! me?ods already describ$ z peculi> to h& plaitt+1 & g5]ally speak+ h be5 copies ( patt]ns s5t out f ,europe4 ,! o!r bran* ( plait mak+ t has n[ revolutioniz$ ! trade is t ( ma*9e made braids4 ,"s few entirely /raw plaits h be5 made by ma*9e4 ,a ,luton inv5tor nam$ ,b>rett design$ a me*anical plaitt]1 :i* really did make fairly good :ole /raw plaits1 b ! inv5tion came at a "t :5 lightness 0 consid]$ mo/ ess5tial1 & ! ma*9e fail$ to d ju/ice to ei!r s+le or d\ble split /raws4 ,italy has = _m ye>s produc$ a /raw plait wov5 ) cotton or silk1 ( :i* !re are _m patt]ns1 b :i* are all giv5 ! g5]ic "n ( 8,fiesole10 f ! orig9al place ( manufacture4 ,?is ,italian plait ( f9e ,tuscan /raws has be5 9 use = _m ye>s1 #ahdj is suppos$ to h be5 ! date1 & ! plait 0 made on looms import$ f ,switz]l&4 ,bo? ,italy & ,switz]l& h s9ce produc$ innum]able patt]ns ( plaits 9 :i* /raw is comb9$ ) "o or m suitable weav+ m$ia4 ,b all ^! ma*9e-made patt]ns1 al?\gh legion 9 numb]1 & ext5d+ ov] m ?an ?ree-qu>t]s ( a c5tury1 _c comp>e z a /raw hat success ) ! ma*9e wov5 braids ( horsehair1 cotton1 silk1 viscose1 hemp & o!r simil> fibres t h emanat$ f ,switz]l&1 ,italy1 ,g]many & ,japan4 ,probably ! fir/ ma*9e-made braid 7soon adopt$ & classifi$ z 8/raw07 0 t kn[n z 8cr9ol9e40 ,?is has z its basis horsehair1 & is made bo? ( hair alone & ( hair mix$ ) _m o!r fibres4 ,! pla9 braid c be compos$ ( odd numb]s ( /r&s ( horsehair f five upw>ds1 9 s]ies ( numb]s divisible by f\r1 plus "o2 ?us #ag ends1 #ba ends1 #be ends1 & s on2 ! f9e/ us$ 9 ! trade is #ag ends1 :i* is ab\t #a_/h ( an in* 9 wid?1 b #ba & #be ends are ! mo/ 9 reque/ = mak+ ! ,cr9ol9e hat s well kn[n 9 ! mo/ fa%ionable qu>t]s4 ,bonnets 7 ext5sively made ab\t fifty or sixty ye>s ago ( 8,cr9ol9e ,fancy0 plaits t 7 a mixture ( ! hair ) silk1 or /raw1 or ,tuscan1 or any simil> fibres4 ,!y 7 also adorn$ ) glass beads or bugles1 & ) silk5 knots & small tassels4 ,?is trade is n[ ne>ly ext9ct ow+ to ! sc>city ( hair1 b its place is fully fill$ ) imitations made ( v>i\s k9ds ( artificial silk1 cellulose1 viscose1 & ! l4 ,a *eap] competitor to cr9ol9e 0 br\ght out ab\t #ahgj1 :5 imitations 9 cotton fibre braids 7 put on ! m>ket1 b ^! miss$ entirely ! delicate op5 "w ( ! real article4 ,simil> effects 7 subsequ5tly made 9 hemp4 ,b ab\t #ahij ! ,g]mans began to make cotton braids 9 an op51 or z x 0 t]m$ aj\r1 mann]1 imitat+ v closely ! true effect ( cr9ol9e4 ,?is _h a trem5d\s success1 = ! co/ 0 v small4 ,?is 0 foll[$ by ! silk imitations m5tion$ above1 & !y h n[ rea*$ su* a /age ( p]fection ( make & col\r z to entirely outvie _! prog5itor4 ,ab\t #ahib ! ,swiss p put on ! m>ket ! fir/ 8,tgal0 braids1 to be quickly foll[$ by an ,italian copy4 ,?is rapidly spread to ,japan1 & ! product ( t f> ea/]n c\ntry soon took ! premi] place1 :i* at ! "t ( writ+ x /ill holds4 ,ano!r product1 l>gely us$ 9 ! trade1 al?\gh /rictly speak+ nei!r a plait nor a wov5 hat1 is 8,sp>t]ie40 ,?is is wattle wov5 ( f9e will[-*ip spl9ts into v>i\s siz$ %eets = ! diff]5t requirem5ts ( ! trade2 x is ma9ly us$ z a f\ndation = mak+ hats to be cov]$ ) "s delicate plait t w n /& any me?od ( wet /iff5+4 ,x is extremely light 9 weight1 & c be m\ld$ to almo/ any %ape1 x w /& /iff5+1 & may be made z firm z /iff buckram4 ,?is emanat$ fir/ f ,italy1 b n[ = "s ye>s ! ,japanese h be5 compet+ = ! trade4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,dye+ ,! dye+ & blea*+ ( ! v>i\s plaits are ! next important processes t[>ds mak+ a /raw hat4 ,! dye+ ( /raw plait 9 ,engl&1 done individually = "s "t on a small scale1 comm5c$ z a sep>ate indu/ry ab\t #ahde1 :5 a ,mr4 ,r&all op5$ "s dye+ works at ,sundon1 a village ab\t f\r miles f ,luton4 ,black1 & a v poor br[n & d>k blue1 7 ! only col\rs !n dy$4 ,%ortly aft] ,mr4 ,?omas ,lye1 :o came f ,kirkby ,malze>d1 ne> ,ripon1 ,yorks1 :i* 0 a plait mak+ c5tre1 />t$ bus9ess z a dy] 9 ,luton4 ,8 gamut ( %ades numb]$ only f\r or five1 & ! /&>d ( col\r !n dem&$ 0 v l[4 ,mr4 ,lye's fir/ signal success 0 a 8grey10 :i* at t "t no o!r competitor _h attempt$4 ,9 #aheg 8 bus9ess 0 transf]r$ to its pres5t site4 ,o!r col\rs quickly foll[$1 & ! inv5tion ( anil9e dyes revolutioniz$ ! old 8vegetable dye0 processes1 ( :i* ! +r$i5ts 7 madd]1 indigo1 logwood & fu/ic4 ,^! wood dyes requir$ a long & co/ly process1 & involv$ ! use ( mordants to prep>e ! /raw = ! diff]5t col\rs1 & _! some:at cumb]some me?ods r5d]$ !m at all times r unc]ta9 9 _! results4 ,) ! adv5t ( ! m easily h&l$ syn!tic dye/uffs ! op]ations ( wood dye+ became less frequ5t1 & al?\gh to-day black is /ill produc$ f logwood *ips1 practically all col\rs are dy$ ) "o or ! o!r extracts ( coal t>1 etc4 ,! ma9 consid]ations ( dye+ are brilliance ( %ade ) p]fect ev5ness ( col\r1 & p5etration ( ! dye "r ?r\gh ! /raw4 ,unlike "s textile fabrics1 fa/ness ei!r to light or ev5 to wat] is n insi/$ on2 b absolute p5etration is a necessity1 = %\ld any "p ( ! /raw :5 plaitt$ become abrad$1 if ! col\r 7 only on ! surface1 ! worn "p w\ld %[ a light] t9t2 & also if :5 ! 8button0 or c5tre ( ! hat 0 made1 ! turn+ ( :i* be+ 9 su* t9y circles1 ! /raws are di/urb$ to _! utmo/1 & ! light col\r$ spaces :i* w\ld result w\ld impair ! regul>ity ( col\r4 ,& ! dye+ p5etration ( /raws or /raw plait1 compos$ z x is ( su* div]sity ( elem5ts1 ! h>d fl9t l ext]ior & ! s(t pappy inside1 is a matt] ( consid]able difficulty1 ev5 if dy]s _h n to cont5d1 fir/1 ) ! extreme h>dness ( wat] :i* is common 9 ! ,s\? ,b$=d%ire di/rict1 & second1 ! con/ant cleans+ necess>y on *anges 9 fa%ionable col\rs necessitat+ ! use ( copp]s1 ! *emical effects ( :i* 9 "s in/ances ne$ c\nt] action to a*ieve a good result4 ,! "q ( p5etration ( ! /raw is "o t has ke5ly ex]cis$ ! m9ds ( /raw dy]s f ! inception ( ! indu/ry4 ,_m are ! op9ions z to ! be/ m$ium = rapid & regul> p5etration4 ,& _m are ! =mulae giv5 z be+ mo/ suitable ag5ts4 ,x is probable t /raws1 gr[n on diff]5t geological =mations & ?us hav+ diff]5t v>ieties ( silicate ext]iors1 require diff]5t ba?s ( s(t5+ *emicals1 & t "o ba?1 excell5t = ! /raw plaits ( ,*9a1 w\ld be ineffici5t = ! /raw plaits ( ,italy4 ,g5]ally speak+1 h[ev]1 ^! ba?s are =m$ ( wat] ) "s neutral salt1 su* z sodium acetate2 or ( an alkal9e solution ( sodium c>bonate ) ammonia4 ,b ! less t is done 9 ! way ( su* s(t5+ be=e dye+ ! bett]2 because ! long] /raw plait is boil$ ! m x is impov]i%$4 ,& z ^! prelim9>y processes involve boil+ 9 e case1 impov]i%m5t mu/ take place1 & :]e alkal9e solutions are us$ ! results are especially poor4 ,ano!r objection to ! use ( s(t5]s is t !y t5d to loos5 ! /raws ( ! plait1 & z ea* process involves manipulation1 ! h&l+ ( ! loos5$ plait t5ds to break x consid]ably4 ,yet ano!r objection is t c]ta9 %ades ( col\r are mo/ adv]sely affect$ by ! previ\s use ( su* ag5ts1 9 fact "s tones _c be produc$ at all on plaits ?us treat$4 ,:ile 9 a few cases x is p]haps necess>y & advisable to employ a s(t5]1 9 by f> ! great] numb] ! be/ results are ^? obta9$ f t =mula :i* involves ! fewe/ processes & ! %orte/ "t ( boil+1 & ?is c be/ be obta9$ :]e dye/uffs are us$ t d n require any previ\s prep>ation ( ! plait4 ,! dye+ ( /raw is almo/ inv>iably done at ! boil4 ,! dye+ matt]1 ) any necess>y addition1 is put into ! vat or copp] & well mix$ ) ! requisite am\nt ( wat]4 ,! plait is !n introduc$ & laid c>efully & regul>ly s t :5 press$ d[n ! solution may cov] x4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #h ,,blea*+ ,,& ,,dye+ ,,( ,,plaits ,,& ,,hoods ,! vats 7:i* are made ( wood7 & ! copp]s are all furni%$ ) a /eam p]=at$ copp] coil at ! bottom4 ,ov] ?is at a slight di/ance1 s t ! heat$ pipes _c come into contact ) ! plait1 is laid a p]=at$ tray1 be x ( wood or copp]4 ,! plait is laid1 z describ$ above1 on ?is tray1 & :5 suffici5tly press$ d[n is cov]$ ) a p]=at$ copp] lid to prev5t ! plait f ris+ above ! surface ( ! dyeba?4 ,?is is !n br\ght to ! boil & cont9u$ = suffici5t "t1 accord+ to ! nature ( ! mat]ial & col\r requir$1 to ensure p]fect p5etration & regul>ity4 ,?is "t may v>y f ev5 less ?an tw5ty m9utes to sev]al h\rs4 ,:5 ! desir$ %ade is a*iev$1 :i* is prov$ by te/+1 ! plait is lift$ c>efully f ! dye ba? on to a crat$ topp$ c>ri]1 simil> to a fun]al bi]4 ,=m]ly on arriv+ at ! dry+ %$ ! plait 0 put on rods & ?or\ghly %ak5 to ca/ (f z mu* moi/ure z possible1 & !n hung 9 ! air s t ! dry+ might n be too rapid & ?us r5d] ! plait brittle4 ,n[ ! plan is to place ! plait1 :5 tak5 f ! copp]1 9 a c5trifugal wr+] or 8hydro-extractor10 :i*1 revolv+ at great spe$1 ?r[s (f all free moi/ure & leaves ! plait almo/ dry4 ,plac$ !n 9 a *amb] ) l>ge p[]-driv5 fans1 ! dry+ process is mo/ spe$ily complet$4 ,be=e dye+1 = easy h&l+1 all plait is 8/rung40 ,e piece ( plait is receiv$ ei!r w\nd up 9 8/icks10 z !y are te*nically t]m$1 or 9 "s loop$ =mation :i* all[s a f9e /r+ to be easily ?read$ ?r\gh & ti$ 9 su* a mann] z to =m a means ( ei!r c>ry+ ! piece or ( hang+ x on a wood5 rod4 ,^! rods are made ( conv5i5t ?icknesses & l5g? to c>ry ! plait 9 ! dry+ dep>tm5ts 7be x 9 ! room1 or 9 ! op5 air71 :5 susp5d$ ei!r 9 ! =m] case on tre/les m\nt$ at suitable di/ances1 or 9 ! latt] on l9es fix$ to uprights & /ret*$ across ! dry+ area4 ,ea* lot ( plait = dye+ c>ries a numb]$ wood5 8tally10 ! numb] correspond+ ) ! dye ticket left 9 ! (fice or 8giv+ out0 room4 ,:5 dry by means ( ^! tallies1 ! plait is collect$ into its orig9al lot1 & is c>efully ti$ up 9 suitably siz$ bundles4 ,"s plaits receive1 :5 dy$1 a 8f9i%0 ( a glucose mixture :i* has two effects1 x gives bett] gloss to ! mat]ial & x assi/s 9 prev5t+ ! col\r com+ (f dur+ ! manufactur+ processes4 ,^! mixtures are all ( a />*y or f>9ace\s nature1 9 :i* "s sub/ance1 say 8f>9a0 itself1 is dissolv$ 9 wat]1 br\ght to a boil & r5d]$ cry/al 9 appe>ance be=e be+ us$ = ! f9i%+ process4 ,"s plaits are ( "o col\r ?r\gh\t1 b are made ) /raws t h be5 previ\sly dy$4 ,g5]ally speak+1 especially = /raws1 ! effect is n s good z :]e ! plait itself is dy$4 ,!re are1 ( c\rse1 "o or two exceptions :]e ! fibre us$ is v delicately plaitt$ into "s loose design :i* w\ld n reta9 its crispness ( outl9e "u ! weight ( wat] 9 dye+ & ! necess>y h&l+4 ,o!r plaits kn[n z 8,speckl$10 mu/1 f _! nature ( mix$ col\rs1 be plaitt$ f dy$ /raws4 ,( ^! !re are col\r$ & natural1 col\r$ & :ite1 & mixtures ( v>i\s col\rs4 ,! dye+ ( /raws foll[s 9 ! ma9 ! dye+ ( plait1 b ! prep>ation is some:at diff]5t4 ,! /raws1 cut into equal l5g?s1 are ti$ up 9 bundles ab\t #e ins4 9 diamet]1 & are c>efully plac$ 9 ! vat or copp] 9 an upright position ) z little pressure z possible1 & :5 dy$ are dri$ /ill 9 ! bundle4 ,at "o "t a new dye+ effect on /raws 0 introduc$1 :i* consi/$ ( /&+ ! bundles upright & all[+ /rong dye to run ?r\gh ! 8pipes40 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 dy$ ! int]ior & "s p>ts ( ! ext]ior1 :i* n t\*+ ano!r /raw all[$ ! dye to d its "w4 ,wat] 0 !n pass$ ?r\gh ! 8pipes10 & ! result :5 dry 0 a pretty mottl$ effect4 ,ano!r fancy me?od ( dye+ 0 ! production ( 8,ombr0 col\rs4 ,?is novelty1 introduc$ by ! ,fr5* dy]s1 consi/$ ( two or m col\rs on ! same plait4 ,x 0 done by means ( a f9e spray+ ma*9e1 :i* vaporiz$ a p[]ful dye on to an already dy$ piece ( plait ( "s light] t9t4 ,messrs4 ,lye ,sons br\ght out a novelty on /raw plait1 p>ticul>ly effective on ! ,japanese wide patt]ns1 :i* produc$ ! same iridesc5t effect t is obta9$ on 8%ot0 silk4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 0 ba?-dy$ & n spray$4 ,^! v>i\s bases ( d\ble tones 7 utiliz$ to _! undo+1 = x 0 no uncommon sight to see manufactur]s ( ! l[] grades ( hats endeav\r+ to produce multicol\r$ effects on *ip plaits by p\r+ ! prep>$ dye ov] ! plait f f9ely nozzl$ wat]+ cans6 ,! resultant crud5ess ( su* arrangem5ts br\ght a beautiful ?+ into disfav\r4 ,! %ade requirem5ts ( to-day include _m col\rs t are t]m$ 8,pa/el40 ,^! are delicate1 pale %ades1 & c be obta9$ only by submitt+ /raw plait to a blea*+ process previ\s to dye+1 b ! f9i%$ article is a ?+ ( extreme beauty1 n only on ! "q ( col\r1 b 9 its int5se purity & s(tness4 ,a me?od = dye+ plaits1 :i* obta9$ consid]able magnitude 9 ,p>is1 b has nev] be5 a fav\rite 9 ,great ,brita91 is t kn[n z 8,cold ,dye40 ,x enjoy$ only a small measure ( success on /raw1 b on *ip & hemp braids v beautiful results h be5 a*iev$4 ,9 #ahgg ,mme4 ,deuxb\ts1 ( ,p>is1 0 dye+ *ip plaits 9 ?is mann]1 :i* is t us$ = fea!rs1 & 9 #ahgh at ! ,exposition ,univ]selle1 h] exhibit 9 ?is direction 0 sup]ior to t %[n by any o!r h\se4 ,x is n[ us$ = dye+ cr9ol9e & ^? silk plaits :i* w\ld be spoil$ by heat$ ba?s4 ,su* are ! ma9 features ( dye+1 pa/ & pres5t1 on ! v>i\s plaits utiliz$ 9 hat mak+1 & 9 ?is art1 = x is no less1 ,engl& has %[n ! way to ! re/ ( ! _w4 ,to-day o!r c\ntries1 su* z ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 ,switz]l&1 ,g]many1 ,italy & ,japan1 h a*iev$ signal success 9 dye+1 9 fact on "s fibres a few =eign dy]s are m successful ?an ^? at home4 ,?is is probably due to ! c>eful skill ( ! dy]1 comb9$ ) ! m fav\rable nature ( ! wat] us$4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,blea*+ ,! o!r section ( prep>atory "w = plait is t ( ,blea*+4 ,! e>ly ef=ts 9 ?is direction 7 ( necessity v crude1 & x is probable t imitation ( ! process us$ 9 "s o!r indu/ry1 r ?an inv5tion = ! p>ticul> commodity1 provid$ ! prim>y /eps 9 /raw blea*+4 ,naturally1 ! fir/ ?+ t w\ld occur to anyone w\ld be to wa% ) wat]1 & any gr[] ( c]eals1 kn[+ ! blea*+ p[] ( ! sun1 w\ld probably comb9e ^! two elem5ts 9 ! endeav\r to produce a bett] col\r on ! corn /alks4 ,!n "s attempts w\ld be made ) a cleans] su* z soap1 /ill utiliz+ ! sun's rays z blea*] aft] clean+4 ,z ,italy is probably ! home ( blea*+ op]ations1 x is n difficult to imag9e t1 ) ! sulphur blea*+ effects s easily se5 r\nd ! ,bay ( ,naples & 9 ,sicily1 x 0 n long be=e ! fumes ( sulphur 7 press$ into ! s]vice4 ,& crude z ^! elem5ts are1 al?\gh ! processes h radically *ang$1 !y rema9 practically ! fundam5tals ( blea*+ to-day4 ,ab\t sev5ty ye>s ago1 ,mr4 ,wel*1 ( ! firm ( ,wel* ,sons1 ( ,luton 7"o ( ! olde/ e/abli%$ h\ses 9 ! trade & /ill 9 exi/5ce71 pat5t$ a blea* :i* 0 call$ ! 8,luton ,blea*40 ,?is consi/$ ( c>efully wa%+ ! plait ) soap & wat] 9 wood5 vats2 aft] c>eful r9s+ x 0 imm]s$ 9 a ba? ( weak oxalic acid & wat] 7"s blea*]s subsequ5tly add$ o!r *emicals71 & !n :ile wet subject$ to ! fumes ( sulphur 9 a h]metically clos$ wood5 *e/4 ,hang+ out 9 ! sun%9e to dry1 & ano!r sulphur fumigation be=e 8bun*+0 7z ! ty+ up ( plait into bundles is t]m$71 complet$ ! op]ation4 ,) *ip plaits1 & fifty or m ye>s ago ^! 7 v fa%ionable1 a simil> process 0 usual1 b ! blea*+ ba? conta9$1 z well z oxalic acid1 kali1 t>t>1 & a good _m o!r simil> +r$i5ts1 accord+ to ! requirem5ts ( ! us]4 ,9 ^? days ne>ly all blea*+ 0 done by ! actual manufactur] ( ! hats1 x 0 only :5 ! trade began to move by leaps & b\nds t works entirely = blea*+ purposes 7 e/abli%$4 ,= _m ye>s ^! me?ods ( blea*+ 7 ! only ones employ$ on plaits = hats1 & !y produc$ excell5t results on really good col\r$ /raws2 b fail$ entirely to elim9ate any faulty p>ts1 & fur!r1 9 ord] to get ! f9e/ col\r1 two m sulphur fumigations 7 necess>y2 "o :5 ! hat 0 wet f ! gelat9e employ$ to /iff5 x1 & ! o!r a dry 8/eam0 7z ! fumigation 0 call$7 be=e putt+ ! f9i%$ hats into ! cases = dispat*4 ,?is cu/om ( blea*+1 9 a patri>*al way 9 "o's own t5t1 br\ght out consid]able inv5tiv5ess on ! "p ( g-ahead manufactur]s1 & x 0 no uncommon ?+ = "s fre% developm5t ( blea*+1 on "o or ano!r plait1 to e/abli% ! reputation ( a manufactur]1 :o1 until 8 secret leak$ out1 endeav\r$ to exploit to ! full ! value ( 8 sup]ior article4 ,b ?is k9d ( blea*+ only clean$ & purifi$1 x did n mat]ially alt] ! natural condition ( ! article blea*$4 ,9 ! fir/ place manufactur]s 7 n laboratory *emi/s1 & x 0 ! ef=ts ( ! ,italians1 ! produc]s ( ! plait :i* 0 supplant+ ! ,briti% product1 t gave bir? to a *emical blea*1 :i* = "s "t 0 unrivall$ 9 ,engl&4 ,= "s ye>s ! blea*$ ,italian ,p$al ( ,messrs4 ,burgiss] ,co41 ( ,flor5ce1 _h no sup]ior1 & 0 = a long p]iod r5[n$ = ! purity & beauty ( its col\r process4 ,b ! secret subsequ5tly leak$ out1 & blea*+ e/abli%m5ts 9 ?is c\ntry soon acquir$ !m1 & x 0 n long be=e ! results obta9$ "h comp>$ fav\rably ) ! ,italian4 ,= "s ye>s ?is blea*1 :i* n only cleans$ & purifi$ ! /raw1 b also *ang$ its actual tone by br++ m into col\r l9e ! /raws ( d>k] hue1 0 accept$ by ! _w z ! be/ possible2 & "o may say t1 al?\gh lat] developm5ts h consid]ably wid5$ ! scope ( op]ations1 ! results ( ?is p]iod1 :i* may be call$ ! int]m$iate cycle ( /raw blea*+1 7 9 _! way q equal to any n[ a*iev$4 ,! only drawback to ?is blea* 0 t really inf]ior col\r$ plait c\ld n be made s]viceable = :ite4 ,9 ! case ( *ip spl9ts or 9 ! case ( corn/alks1 only ! be/ & cle>e/ ( ei!r ( ^! _h be5 us$ = plaits = blea*+4 ,?is necessitat$ keep+ two /ocks ( plait1 = al?\gh ! be/ col\r$ plait c\ld be dy$ black or o!r %ade if necess>y1 ! bad col\r$ /raws c\ld n be blea*$1 & fur!r1 "o always _h to pay m = ! be/ col\r$ goods1 :i* al?\gh to "s ext5t ?is is ev5 n[ ! case1 ow+ to ! great possibilities op5$ up by ! pres5t blea*+ processes1 !re is n ! wide diff]5ce 9 price !re us$ to be4 ,b at la/ competitive *emi/s discov]$ t ! quantity ( /raw plait requir$ = blea*+ 0 ( su* magnitude1 :ile ! really good blea*+ plait 0 comp>atively s small 9 quantity1 t x w\ld be wor? _! :ile to make rese>*es 9 ! direction ( a blea* = inf]ior col\r$ /raws4 ,betwe5 #ahhe & #ahij _m exp]im5ts 7 made1 ) naturally v>iable results4 ,x mu/ n be ov]look$1 t plaits 7 /ill requir$ by ! trade to be ( a 8/raw0 col\r1 & ! fir/ ef=ts ( ! 8new blea*]0 7 t[>ds ?is end4 ,b ! process t gave mo/ promise be+ actually an oxydization 0 m 9 ! nature ( a dye ?an a blea* 9 "o respect1 viz41 t x app>5tly *ang$ ! nature ( ! mat]ial1 9 fact "s ( ! blea*]s to diff]5tiate 9 ! trade betwe5 ! new process & ! old call$ ! lat] arrival a 8,:ite ,dye40 ,x 0 soon f\nd t an ext5d$ application ( ! process w\ld entirely elim9ate ! v>y+ tones ( mix$ 8,punta0 & 8,p$ale0 /raws & w\ld make ! plait a p]fectly dull :ite l pap]1 b at ! same "t x t5d$ to mat]ially injure ! fabric ( ! /raw4 ,!re 0 naturally no dem& = any su* results1 ! 8pap] :ite0 c\ld easily be obta9$ on 8*ip0 plaits1 & ! only effect requir$ 0 to r$uce mottl$ col\r$ natural plaits to suffici5t uni=mity ( good /raw :ite col\r4 ,moreov]1 ! absolute 8deadness0 ( ! :ite produc$ took away all ! beautiful lu/re ( ! /raw :i* x 0 desirable to reta92 & ! weak5+ ( ! fibre by ! *emical process 0 entirely inimical to ! subsequ5t prop] sew+ & f9i%+ ( ! hat4 ,h[ev]1 a process 0 f\nd t met all requirem5ts z f> z lu/re & /r5g? 7 conc]n$4 ,!re 0 /ill a t5d5cy to kill ! /raw col\r1 b subsequ5t inve/igations h r$uc$ t to a m9imum1 & to-day ! blea*es on /raw plaits leave no?+ to be desir$4 ,z f> z *ip & ,tagal plaits 7 conc]n$ !re 0 n ! occasion to pres]ve ! natural col\rs ( ! fibre4 ,:ite *ip 0 always requir$ 8pap] :ite10 & al?\gh "s ( ! hemp fibres ( ,tagal 7 ( a flax5 col\r1 mo/ ( t export$ f ,japan 0 di/9ctly on ! :ite side1 &1 !re=e1 f ! fir/1 ?is process ( blea*+ has be5 helpful to all plaits made ( ^! two mat]ials4 ,moreov]1 ! mod]n me?ods are especially adaptable = hood hats1 inasmu* z ! process disp5ses ) scrubb+ by h&4 ,to ,panamas1 al?\gh previ\sly ! col\r _h be5 fairly good1 ! new blea* has be5 a great help1 & has enabl$ ,panamas ( f9e col\r to be univ]sal4 ,^! rem>ks apply also to ! o!r v>ieties ( ,panamas ( :i*1 al?\gh ! me?od ( mak+ may be slightly diff]5t1 ! fibre is almo/ id5tical2 b :5 "o comes to ! ,b[5 or ,curaoa hoods1 _! sub/itutive use has only be5 possible because ( ! se>*+ effects ( ! new process4 ,be=e blea*+1 ^! articles are q unfit to sell = :ite1 & _! natural t9t is n "o t w\ld comm& a fa%ionable sale4 ,s9ce be+ dy$ :ite1 ! dem& = !m has be5 ph5om5al1 & = a l[ pric$1 co>se-look+ hat ( a ,panama nature1 !re is at pres5t no?+ to take _! place4 ,! natural col\r ( ,javas1 ,brazilians & ,bankoks is su* t !y are saleable z import$1 b al?\gh _m are ?us us$1 ! great majority ( !m requir$ = :ite are blea*$ by ! new process1 & ) v excell5tly cle> results4 ,javas1 be+ ! d>ke/ ( ! trio m5tion$ above1 c h _! col\r reta9$ to "s ext5t1 giv+ ! f9i%$ article almo/ a p]fect /raw t9t1 b ,brazilians & ,bankoks assume a :it] tone )\t any t+e ( yell[4 ,!y1 !re=e1 are v simil> to ,panamas 9 col\r appe>ance1 b bo? ( !m1 be+ made ( flat spl9ts1 are light] 9 weight4 ,y$da1 ru%1 & raffia plaits & hoods are all v am5able to ! blea*1 & :ile ! two latt] pres5t1 :5 blea*$1 little1 if any1 lu/re1 ! fir/ nam$ assumes a silky appe>ance :i* is mo/ effective4 ,to sum up1 ) ! mod]n process1 ( :i* !re are sev]al modifications1 any k9d ( fabric us$ = /raw hats c be successfully blea*$ into "o or ! o!r tones f /raw to pap] :ite1 :i* are reg>d$ z necess>y = ! highe/ grade f9i%4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,blockmak+ ,a mo/ important "p ( ! indu/ry is t :i* actually =ms ano!r trade 9 itself1 viz41 t ( blockmak+4 ,e %ape requires its individual block ( wood1 iron or o!r mat]ial1 9 ord] t repetitions ( ! %ape may be id5tical 9 outl9e & =m4 ,! e>lie/ ,briti% 8block0 0 t :i* und\bt$ly gave ! "n to its successors4 ,x 0 simply a block ( wood =m$ f ! trunk ( a suitable siz$ tree1 m\nt$ on legs l a vault+ horse1 & ) ends bluntly po9t$ to ! desir$ =m1 s t two op]atives c\ld be at "w simultane\sly4 ,t primitive me?od 0 q inadequate :5 fa%ion began to ask = %ape v>iations ( su* a "* z to be impossible to produce on ! tree trunk1 & an indu/ry gradually grew up1 :i* has atta9$ q l>ge proportions1 solely = ! mak+ ( wood5 & o!r blocks = ! use ( ! /raw work]4 ,! exact %ape hav+ be5 det]m9$ on1 models ei!r ( draw+s to scale1 or ( templates ( suitable mat]ial1 or ( ! actual hat produc$ ei!r by sew+ ! patt]n 9 "s adaptable plait1 or by buckram or sp>t]ie duly %ap$1 or by =ms ( wire b5t to make outl9es ( ! design suffici5t = ! blockmak]4 ,^! are ! me?ods adopt$ :5 "s novelty evolves1 ( :i* !re is no previ\s patt]n1 b ! great bulk ( models put into ! h&s ( ! blockmak] are ! actual hats requir$1 t h be5 already made by "s "o else1 b :i* ! manufactur] desires to copy4 ,z ! ,pat5t or ,regi/ration ,laws d n af=d suffici5t protection to ! creator ( ! %ape or design1 x w be und]/ood t ! f9i%$ hat is mo/ (t5 ! model = ! blockmak]4 ,! blockmak] works 9 a v simil> way to ! 8patt]n-mak]0 ( ! iron & eng9e]+ trades1 ! ma9 portion ( 8 "w be+ done by ! spoke%ave4 ,b[ saws1 work$ ei!r by h& or ma*9e1 cut out ! ovals ( ! cr[n & ! brim1 & subsequ5t op]ations are c>ri$ out by means1 9 a few cases1 ( a la!1 b ! major "p is done by ! spoke%ave & *isel or g\ge4 ,9 _m in/ances ! intricacy ( ! "w c>ries ! indu/ry almo/ into ! art ( wood sculpture1 b g5]ally speak+ ! models are ( a pla9] nature4 ,m5tion has already be5 made ( 8"o piece0 & 8two piece0 hats4 ,! =m] may h blocks made 8all d[n10 t is ) ! cr[n fix$ to ! brim1 :i* w g5]ally be ( a flat or a droop+ nature4 ,b ! 8"o piece0 9 mo/ models dem&s bo? ! cr[n & ! curl] blocks1 s t al?\gh ! hats may be ( "o ! blocks mu/ be ( two pieces2 ?is obta9s :]e ! brim has an outl9e :i* rolls upw>ds 9 "s place or places1 f ! base ( ! cr[n4 8,two piece0 blocks are necess>y :]e ! tr5d ( fa%ion dem&s t ! outl9e ( ! cr[n1 especially at ! base1 %all be l>g] ?an ! head entry !n fa%ionable4 ,= unlike m5's hats1 ! head entries ( wom5's hats v>y accord+ to ! prevail+ /yle ( coiffure1 or ! outl9e :i* mo/ appeals at ! "t to ! public dem&4 ,:]e 9 a 8"o piece0 hat ! top ( ! cr[n is l>g] ?an ! head entry1 ! cr[n block has to be made 9 su* a mann] z to all[ ! block to be ins]t$ 9 ! hat = block+1 & to p]mit its easy )drawal :5 ! op]ation is complet$4 ,?is is atta9$ by mak+ ! cr[n block 9 two or m sections1 ! pieces be+ held toge!r by means ( grooves & tongues4 ,^! are made slightly angl$ 9 e way1 ! end ( ! grooves ne>e/ ! top ( ! cr[n be+ small] ?an ! end at ! base1 s t :ile fitt+ up v tightly :5 ! tongue is "r home1 ! slighte/ movem5t ( ! 8key0 piece af=ds an easy dislocation ( ! :ole block4 ,! majority ( ^! piec$ blocks are built up ) five sections includ+ ! key piece1 :i* is a tap]+ squ>e & occupies ! c5tre1 c>ry+ on ea* side a tongue :i* fits into ! groove ( ! correspond+ piece ( ! outside cont\r ( ! block4 ,! top ( ! key piece =ms ! c5tre ( ! top ( ! cr[n1 & unlike ! inn] sides & base is made to con=m to ! requir$ outl9e ( ! %ape design4 ,! :ole :5 prop]ly made af=ds q z solid a gr\nd = work+ on z a block made f a s+le piece ( wood4 ,if ! hat ) a cr[n ne$+ a piec$ block is 9 itself a 8"o piece0 hat1 x is necess>y to make ! brim block 9 two p>ts1 ) a h+e at "o cut & a lock at ! o!r2 s t ! head entry may1 :5 ! brim is clos$1 fit closely up to ! head l9e ( ! hat1 b 9 all 8two piece0 hat cases ! brim blocks are made out ( "o piece4 ,z a rule1 ! brims are made f wood suffici5tly ?ick to all[ a little ov] ! wid? ( ! brim if !re be any dep? ( roll1 or turn upw>ds1 & :]e ! brim is flat or ) a small roll an extra ?ickness is all[$ to give suffici5t /r5g? to ! block & prev5t any w>p+ :i* might be possible "u ! use ( dry & damp heat4 ,! brim block has on its und]side "s 8feet0 :i*1 ei!r ( wood or metal1 raise ! work+ cont\r a suffici5t height above ! wood base to :i* !y are atta*$ to all[ ! cr[n ( ! hat be+ block$ to "w freely & to miss ! top ( ! 8sp9dle40 ,e wood block1 :e!r cr[n or brim1 has a squ>e hole 9 its base call$ ! 8sp9dle hole0 to take ! 8sp9dle40 ,?is is ( iron1 & has ! upp] portion squ>e & tap]$ to quickly adju/ itself to ! fit ( ! sp9dle hole2 its l[] "p is circul>1 s t x may revolve 9 ! socket made = x 9 ! 8sp9dle0 bracket1 an in/rum5t fix$ to ! block+ b5* by :i* any "p ( ! block c be adju/$ to suit ! iron+ ne$s ( ! op]ative4 ,wood blocks are made pref]ably ( ald]1 z t wood resi/s be/ ! action ( dry & damp heads1 & hav+ a m9imum ( gra9 pres5ts ! be/ m$ium = cutt+ into curv$ or corn]$ %apes4 ,popl>1 *e/nut & o!r h>d woods are also us$1 ei!r ( !m hav+ "s special *>act]i/ic :i* r5d]s x suitable = v>i\s k9ds ( blocks4 ,! base ( a brim block is frequ5tly made ( elm1 b bee* & any really h>d wood c be utiliz$4 ,ma*9e block+ necessitates ! use ( metal blocks1 :i* are ca/ ei!r 9 iron1 alum9ium1 or spelt] f m\lds made f ! wood5 blocks1 s t if only ma*9e block+ is int5d$1 x is fir/ necess>y to make ! wood5 patt]n4 ,! v>i\s work+s ( ^! blocks w be describ$ 9 ! 8,block+0 *apt]4 ,! wood block also af=ds ! model = tak+ ,pla/] ( ,p>is ca/s4 ,:5 ord]s are l>ge & ! wood blocks are requir$ all ! "t by ! /iff5] or block]1 pla/] copies are made f x1 s t ! sew]s may h some?+ def9ite to "w to4 ,^! are made 9 ! usual pla/] ca/+ me?od1 & are only int5d$ = tempor>y use1 _! *eapness & quickness ( completion z aga9/ ! co/ ( wood be+ ! reason = _! adoption1 = !y w n /& ! /iff5+ & block+ processes4 ,a subsidi>y k9d ( block1 con/ruct$ ( wood & metal1 is us$ = su* p>ts ( a "o-piece hat or bonnet t _c be reproduc$ 9 wood alone4 ,! 8,pork ,pie0 turban1 9 fa%ion dur+ ! '#fj's ( ! n9ete5? c5tury1 _h a close curl or brim /&+ only ab\t half an in* away f ! cr[n4 7,see ,john ,lee*'s draw+s 9 ,pun* ( t p]iod47 ,no wood curl] z ?9 9 texture z ! %ape requir$ w\ld /& any prolong$ /iff5+ & block+1 s in/rum5ts call$ 8,tipp]s0 7 us$ = block+ ?is /yle ( %ape4 ,!y _h a wood5 sp9dle t c\ld be put 9 ! sp9dle socket1 to :i* a piece ( metal1 iron1 brass1 or z9c 0 atta*$4 ,?is 0 9 ! =m ( a widi%1 %ort l5g? scoop1 & ) x a workman c\ld iron a close brim 9 sections4 ,^! 8tipp]s0 7 made ) v>y+ curves1 s t any k9d ( oval c\ld be reproduc$4 ,! adv5t ( two piece hats1 :]e ! cr[n is atta*$ to ! brim aft] block+1 has r5d]$ ^! in/rum5ts ne>ly useless1 z by ?is new arrangem5t ! wood brim = su* a %ape c be made q solid4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #i 8,,tipp]0 ,blockmak+ is "o ( ! mo/ important sections contribut+ to ! /raw trade1 = ! p]fect reproduction ( a model's outl9e dep5ds entirely on ! accuracy ( f9i% giv5 to ! blocks4 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,h& ,,& ,,ma*9e ,,sew+ ,! next /age 9 ! evolution ( a /raw hat made f plait is ! sew+ toge!r ( ! mat]ial to =m ! necess>y %ape4 ,! e>lie/ me?ods 71 ( c\rse1 all by h&4 ,p]haps ! fir/ 0 t describ$ 9 ,*apt] ,,ii1 :]e ! heads ( ! plait 7 tuck$ 9 "o "u ! o!r & r5d]$ secure by ! pass+ ( "s fibre inside ! loops ( ! heads1 s z to make an almo/ invisible jo9t1 z 9 ! case ( a 8,leghorn0 hat4 ,x may be said 9 pass+ t ?is me?od 0 c>ri$ out by ! ,italian plaitt]s 9 ! case ( *ip plaits made ( #i ends1 b )\t ! secur+ fibre4 ,! result 0 t !re 0 en\gh 8hold0 giv5 by ! tuck$ 9 heads to ensure ! edges hold+ toge!r suffici5tly to =m a p]fectly flat plate4 ,x 0 9 ?is =m t *ip plaits 7 fir/ us$ = ! 8,granny0 bonnets 9 vogue a c5tury ago2 = :5 /iff5$ ) gelat9e or glue ! jo9s 7 suffici5tly /rong to enable ! brim %ape to be produc$4 ,! 8,flats10 z !y 7 call$1 7 made all ( "o diamet]1 & x !re=e foll[$ t "o made out ( ! f9e/ plait w\ld conta9 m r[s ?an "o made ( a co>s] grade4 ,! exact diamet] 0 det]m9$ by ! f9e/ size plait1 & ( t !re w\ld be #ajj r[s1 h5ce ! t]m 8,no4 #ajj0 repres5t$ to ! trade ! n>r[e/ plait4 ,! qualities d[n to ! co>se ones 7 grad$ 9 #e's1 ?us ! next co>se size 0 8,no4 #ie10 & s on1 d[n ev5 to 8,no4 #fe10 ( :i* be+ v co>se only #fe r[s 7 necess>y to make ! 8flat40 ,to use = work+1 :]e dye+ 0 requir$1 ! flat 0 8/ripp$0 by tak+ ! outside end & g5tly pull+ ! flat1 ! c5tre ( :i* 0 pivot$ r\nd & r\nd until ! :ole 0 undone4 ,?is 9 no way det]iorat$ ! plait1 b x 0 soon f\nd t to w9d ! plait into neat pieces sav$ consid]able tr\ble = m>ket+ & subsequ5t use4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 is only a digression record+ a me?od ( jo9+ plait 9 spiral r[s1 ( :i* head we> 0 made1 :i* aft] all is ! plan on :i* all sew+ is bas$4 ,! ,briti% sew]s1 ) only a v few exceptions1 h always jo9$ plaits toge!r by means ( an ov]lap1 t is1 ! head ( "o r[ cov]+ ! foot ( ano!r1 ?us1 ! ne$le pass+ ?r\gh ! plait j "u ! head1 to make ! /it* z little visible z possible1 & ?r\gh ! foot close to ! edge1 s z to lay ! plait z ?9ly z firm sew+ w\ld p]mit4 ,! effect :5 sewn 0 ( a t9y1 practically invisible /it* on ! surface ( ! plait & a cont9u\s /it* on ! "u side1 ! /it*es be+ ab\t half an in* ap>t4 7,see opposite page47 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aj ,,section ,,( #d ,,r[s ,,( ,,plait ,?is back/it*+ =m$ a p]fect 8lock10 &1 al?\gh = ! purpose ( explanation ! five "r h& /it*es are %[n 9 a graduat$ loose /ate1 9 actual work+ ea* "o 0 tight5$ at its completion be=e comm5c+ ! next4 ,?is me?od 0 common to ! sew+ ( all plaits1 ! co>s]1 h>%] v>ieties necessitat+ ! use ( ! co>se/ ?read4 ,= "s plaits su* z f9e 8split10 to be us$ = 8compo0 f9i%1 & horsehair cr9ol9e a 8runn+0 /it* 0 sometimes us$ 9 ! e>ly times1 b x has be5 discont9u$ except = broad silk or fancy plaits4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aa ,z "s ( ! plaits 7 only ab\t #a_/h? ( an in* 9 wid?1 x w readily be se5 h[ deft & skill$ an op]ative mu/ h be51 to ensure ! p]fect spirals & equidi/ant r[s t 7 ! m>k ( ! be/ h&sewn bonnets & hats4 ,! nature ( ! /it* made by any ( ! ma*9es us$ = hat mak+ ) /raw plait is necess>ily entirely diff]5t to t ( ! h&1 al?\gh ! "o made by ! 8,lgat0 ma*9e foll[$ ! h&/it* v closely4 ,x consi/$ ( two /r&s ( cotton =m+ a t9y1 almo/ invisible /it* on ! surface ( ! plait & "o /r& only und]nea?1 ! l5g? ( ea* complet$ /it* be+ ab\t half an in*4 ,x 0 made by a desc5d+ %aft c>ry+ a hook$ ne$le1 & ! peculi> result 0 a*iev$ by v intricate & delicate ma*9]y 9 a circul> box fac+ ! op]ator4 ,! delicacy ( ! p>ts 0 s great & ! ma*9e be+ less rapid ?an ! 8,willcox ,visible ,/it*10 or ! fir/ 8,wiseman ,h& ,/it*10 x 0 soon eclips$ by its competitors4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ab ,,sew+ ,,/raw ,,plait ,,into ,,hats ,,by ,,ma*9e ,! 8,willcox ,visible ,/it*0 0 produc$ fir/ on :at 0 aft]w>ds kn[n 9 ! trade z ! 8#aj-;,gu9ea0 ma*9e4 ,?is 0 simply ! dome/ic *a9 /it* ma*9e1 f :i* ! table or plat=m ar\nd ! ne$le _h be5 tak5 away1 9 ord] to all[ free work+ ( any "p ( ! hat4 ,9 a %ort "t ?is ma*9e und]w5t a great *ange = ! /raw hat purpose4 ,luton me*anics set !mselves to "w1 & appliances 7 affix$ "o ( :i* r5d]$ ! +ress ( ! plait m easy2 ano!r all[$ = a m9ute & /&>diz$ gaug+ ( ! necess>y wid?s = ! prop] r[-lay+ ( ! plait1 /ill fur!r ano!r made x possible to alt] ! actual l5g? ( ! /it*1 & at la/ ! model kn[n ?r\gh\t ! trade z ! 8#ag-;,gu9ea0 0 univ]sally adopt$ z ! be/ type ( visible /it* ma*9e = plait sew+4 ,! 8/it*0 consi/s ( "o /r& ( cotton on ! surface ( ! plait & two /r&s und]nea?1 & f its *a9-l nature c be easily undone if requir$4 ,?is has be5 closely copi$ by o!r ma*9e mak]s1 ! "o produc$ 9 ,g]many kn[n z ! 8,dresd5sia0 be+ almo/ an exact copy ( ! 8#ag-;,gu9ea40 ,bo? ^! ma*9es vie ) ea* o!r 9 ! fav\r ( manufactur]s1 be/ "w be+ possible f ei!r4 ,! o!r model hav+ surviv$ ! te/s ( "t & ! necessities ( ! indu/ry is ! 8,wiseman ,box0 ,h& ,/it* ,ma*9e4 ,?is d]ives its "n f ! inv5tor1 & f ! box-l case1 ) ev5 a lift+ lid1 t is its great *>act]i/ic4 ,mr4 ,wiseman 9 ?is ma*9e1 z 9 8 fir/ model1 :i* 0 n box enclos$1 makes use bo? ( ! ?read$ ne$le simil> to ! 8,willcox10 & ( ! un?read$ hook-l ne$le peculi> to ! 8,legat40 ,b contr>y to ! d[nw>d action ( ! o!rs1 ! 8,wiseman0 ne$les make an upw>d ?ru/4 ,!y /& at ab\t #a_/af ( an in* ap>t1 ! "o ) ! eye 7:i*1 z 9 all ma*9es1 is at ! po9t$ end7 c>ry+ ! cotton1 & be+ plac$ 9 ! same ne$le b> move simultane\sly4 ,! upw>d ?ru/ :5 work+ s5ds ! pair ( !m ?r\gh ! two ov]lapp+ /r&s ( plait :i* are kept at ! prop] place by special 8guides40 ,:5 !y em]ge on ! surface ( ! plait1 a little f+]1 call$ ! 8loop]10 takes "o /r& ( ! loop ( cotton f ! ne$le1 br+s x across ! int]v5+ space :]e x is caught 9 ! hook$ ne$le & releas$ f ! loop]4 ,!n bo? desc5d1 & ! result ( ?is trio ( movem5ts is a /it* ( ! wid? t exi/s betwe5 ! ne$les1 consi/+ ( two /r&s ( cotton4 ,! fe$s !n move ! plait =w>d ab\t half an in*1 & ! op]ation is complet$4 ,! "u /it* consi/s ( ?ree /r&s1 b z ! cotton us$ 9 ?is & all o!r /raw ma*9es is ( ! f9e/ grades1 say f 8#hj0 to 8#ajj0 = ! be/ "w1 ! /it* is h>dly se51 & ! weight is n suffici5t to be detrim5tal4 ,! c5tre ( ! top ( ! cr[n1 call$ 9 trade p>lance ! 8,button10 is produc$ by tak+ an extreme end betwe5 ! ?umb & =ef+] ( ! "r h&1 ! left hold+ ! l5g? "p ( ! plait4 ,! "r h& makes a %>p turn ( ! portion held & ) a slight cupp+ motion1 su* z w\ld be us$ by a groc] mak+ a conical pap] bag1 p]mits ! plait 9 ! left h& to come "u ! cupp$ portion1 ?r\gh ! lapp+ ( :i* ! fir/ /it*es are made4 ,! spirals ( ! 8button0 are extremely small1 & ! beauty ( ?is "p is enhanc$ by ! gradual & regul> increase ( ! size ( !m4 ,?is op]ation produces a spiral go+ f "r to left1 z 9 ,fig4 #ac1 & is always ! me?od adopt$ by h& sew]s2 x 0 9 ?is way t all ! bonnets & hats 7 comm5c$ prior to ! adoption ( ma*9]y = sew+ plait4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ac ,! button f9i%$1 rec\rse is !n made to ! 8block0 or %ape ( ! cr[n to be produc$1 = ! subsequ5t sew+ dep5ds on its cont\r4 ,if ?is is circul> ! cont9ual work+ ar\nd ! button until ! desir$ diamet] is rea*$1 w a*ieve ! requir$ result2 b if ! %ape is oblong 7z !y frequ5tly are1 ! trade "n = :i* is 8oval071 x is necess>y = ! sew+ to foll[ a slightly cr[d$ c\rse at ! n>r[ wid?1 & a slightly ext5d$ c\rse at ! l5g?1 = x is a desid]atum t ! edge ( ! top %\ld syn*ronize exactly ) ! 8turn d[n r[0 z x is call$1 s t ) ! fir/ r[ sewn d[n ! side ( ! cr[n1 a clean cut & squ>e edge w be produc$4 ,?is done1 sew+ cont9ues1 always to ! 8block0 cont\rs1 until suffici5t dep? is rea*$1 & ?is f9i%es ! cr[n :]e ! base is at equal di/ance all r\nd f ! edge ( ! top4 ,9 "s cases1 h[ev]1 x is necess>y 9 ord] to produce ! actual outl9e ( ! model1 to add 9 "o place or ano!r at ! bottom ( ! cr[n %ort extra r[s ( 8gores0 or 8slopes0 7! local t]ms7 :i* w increase ! dep? ( ! cr[n at ! place requir$2 9 "s bonnets _m extra r[s are necess>y to give j ! fit to any ar* !re may be 9 ! head l9e ( ! brim4 ,9 e>ly times ! bottom ( ! cr[n 0 always ! same size 9 circumf]5ce z ! head entry ( ! brim1 & 9 t case ! brim 0 comm5c$ by sew+ ! fir/ r[ ( x to ! la/ r[ ( ! cr[n4 ,9 "s /yles t /ill obta9s1 & ! hats ?us made are designat$ 8"o piece40 ,mod]n models1 h[ev]1 (t5 h ! base ( ! cr[n mu* l>g] ?an ! necess>y head entry4 ,9 ^? cases ! cr[n & ! brim are made sep>ate1 & are call$ 8two piece0 hats :5 f9i%$1 ! head fit be+ provid$ by ! brim alone4 ,9 su* cases ! brim is comm5c$ by sew+ to a b& ( "s *eap mat]ial suffici5tly /iff1 made to ! necess>y head size4 ,_m %apes h brims :i* are ( equal wid? all r\nd4 ,x is !n only necess>y to sew directly (f ! la/ r[ ( ! cr[n1 &1 con=m+ to ! /yle1 cont9ue ! sew+ 9 ! spiral mann]4 ,:]e a brim is flat x is mo/ important t x %\ld be />t$ at a prop] angle to ! side ( ! cr[n1 = t may or may n be exactly upright4 ,!re are cr[ns1 su* z boat]s = m51 ( :i* ! sides are exactly at an angle ( #ij to ! brim1 !re are o!rs ( :i* ! top is small] ?an ! head fit1 ( :i* ! sides tap]1 mak+ an obtuse angle to ! brim l9e2 & /ill fur!r !re are o!rs1 :]e ! top is l>g] ?an ! head1 :]e ! angle is %>p5$4 ,s t 9 ord] to make ! brim p]fectly flat due reg>d mu/ be made to ! side cr[n incid5ce1 & 9 process ( mak+ great c>e has to be tak5 s z n to imp>t ei!r fullness1 :i* w\ld cause undulations1 or tightness1 :i* w\ld make ! brim ei!r to turn up l a sauc]1 or to turn d[n l a mu%room4 ,( c\rse1 !re are hats ) brims ( equal wid? all r\nd t are design$ to d "o or ! o!r ( ^! ?+s1 & 9 t case ! op]ative gives ! necess>y fullness or tightness ei!r all r\nd or 9 "p z ! %ape may require4 ,b ! majority ( fa%ionable models h brims ( unequal wid?s2 ?us ! front may be wid] or n>r[] ?an ! sides or back2 or ! back may be ( ! n>r[e/ wid?2 or ! sides may be wid] ?an ei!r front or back1 or ea* c>d9al po9t ( ! brim compass may be ( diff]5t dim5sions4 ,9 ei!r ( ^! cases ! prop] result c only be obta9$ by "o ( ?ree ways3 #a/1 by ! ins]tions ( ! prop] wid? & l5g? ( gores at ! "p ne>e/ to ! cr[n & opposite1 b 9 relation to1 ! edge ( ! wide/ "p or p>ts ( ! brim2 #bnd1 by />t+ ! brim at ! cr[n l9e z if = an equal wid?1 & putt+ ! gores at ! edge ( ! brim at ! place :]e ! extra wid? is requir$2 #crd1 by sew+ ! brim z an all r\nd "o & !n cutt+ ! edge to ! requir$ %ape4 ,! fir/ me?od is t always foll[$ :]e a circul> or extra oval edge ( ! brim is necess>y1 ! gores c\nt]act+ ! inequality ( wid? w leave ! circumf]5ce ) a clean1 true sweep4 ,! second me?od is only adopt$ :]e ! brim outl9e =ms "s abnormality1 :i* x w\ld be impossible to a*ieve by sew+ ! gores to ! cr[n1 & :]e ?is is done ea* end ( ! plait us$ is c>efully cr[d$ t[>ds ! "p :]e x is jo9$ to ! brim & laid d[n 9 su* a mann] z to pres]ve z f> z possible ! orig9al curves ( ! r[s ( plait ne>e/ to ! cr[n4 ,! ?ird me?od is employ$ :]e ! abnormal outl9e ( ! edge ( ! brim is ( a too acute nature to all[ ev5 ( gores be+ work$1 & e season br+s up "o or m models t require ?is k9d ( treatm5t4 ,! brim is sewn1 tak+ no notice ( ! inequalities1 to ! wid? ( ! wide/ "p 7provid+ always t ! head l9e gores mu/ be ins]t$ :]e practicable72 ei!r be=e or aft] /iff5+ or block+1 z ! case may dem&1 ! edge is cut ) scissors to a template ( ! %ape1 & is !n b\nd ) a r[ ( ! plait sewn all ov] ^? p>ts :i* h be5 cut across ! r[s1 s t any possibility ( fray+ is av]t$4 ,9 ! above cases1 :i* are all ( m or less curv$ l9es1 a r[ ( plait is always sewn on ! la/ r[1 mak+ a d\ble ?ickness4 ,?is is = two purposes1 to create an extra /r5g?1 & to p]mit ! atta*m5t !reto ( any wire or fabric desir$1 )\t /it*+ ?r\gh ! brim prop]4 ,b !re h be5 brims ( :i* ! outside edge _h a portion or portions t 7 q %>ply def9$ angles4 ,^! are n[ done by ! ?ird me?od outl9$ above1 b 9 ! old h& sew+ days1 :]e ! op]atives' f+]s1 in/ead ( a ma*9e1 _h to d ! "w1 ! angle 0 a*iev$ by a process kn[n z 8nipp+40 ,?is consi/$ ( />t+ ! angul> portion ) a piece ( plait turn$ abruptly1 ev5 to ! ext5t ( mak+ ! foot ( ! turn$ portion lap ov] ! foot ( ! f\ndation4 ,?is 0 sometimes done 9 work+ a v oblong top ( a cr[n1 b !n ! two ends ( ! acc5tuat$ oval 7 turn$ 9 z circul> a =m z possible1 simil> to "p ( ! =mation ( a 8button10 b 9 ! 8nipp+0 case ! turn+ po9t 0 q %>p1 ne$+ a small tuck ( ! plait to be sewn und]nea? to get ! requir$ acut5ess2 ! foll[+ r[s 7 treat$ 9 ! same mann] until ! desir$ wid? 0 obta9$4 ,by ?is means any angul> projection ( ! brim c be obta9$1 b x is only possible 9 h& sew+4 ,be=e ! adv5t ( ma*9]y any su* process z ,no4 #c1 cutt+ ! brim & b9d+1 0 nev] utiliz$ 9 ! manufacture ( be/ class goods1 except = ^? bonnets :i*1 l>gely 9 vogue at "o "t1 _h v deep e>s ) r\nd ends1 & ev5 9 ^! cases :]ev] possible ! me?od ,no4 #b 0 adopt$4 ,b :5 ma*9]y became ! prime factor 9 ! sew+ ( plaits o!r me?ods 7 necess>ily tak5 up1 = ! capability ( ! ma*9e 0 n always equall$ by ! capability ( ! op]ator1 & vice v]sa2 !re=e1 ! be/ means common to ! skill ( ! greate/ numb] became ! g5]al rule4 ,x is possible t1 ) ! delicate adju/m5ts :i* c be obta9$ on ei!r ( ! two /yles ( ma*9es 9 use 9 ! trade1 ! la/ ( ! f\r me?ods c\ld be suffici5tly well done1 b only a v small p]c5tage ( op]atives w\ld be deft en\gh to a*ieve a good result1 & ev5 9 ! cases ( ! fir/ & second me?ods :]e gores are work$ on ! inside or outside edges ( ! brim1 ! f9al cr[d+ & lay+ d[n is inv>iably done by h& sew+4 ,! button also is ano!r "p t ! hat sew] by ma*9e /ill makes by h&4 ,9 ! ma*9e f9i%$ hats ?is "p is turn$ 9 ! same mann]1 b 9 ! opposite direction1 ?us ! h& sewn hat spirals run f "r to left1 :]eas ! ma*9e made article rims f left to "r1 tak+ ! same orbit z t ( ! sun4 7,see ,fig4 #ad47 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ad ,z already m5tion$1 "o ( ! e>lie/ ma*9es made = plait sew+ comm5c$ ! hat op]ations at ! edge ( ! brim1 b ?is 0 a solit>y in/ance1 all o!rs />t$ at ! 8button0 & ! two g5]ic ma*9es n[ 9 vogue1 ! visible & ! invisible /it*1 foll[1 ) ! exception ( ! direction1 ! me?od ( h& sew+4 ,9 ord] t a ma*9i/ ( /raw plait %\ld be capable ( produc+ ! highe/ grade "w1 a ?or\gh tuition ( h& sew+ is mo/ helpful1 & ?is 0 well demon/rat$ :5 ma*9es 7 fir/ us$4 ,! e>ly appliances or atta*m5ts to ! ma*9es 7 ( q a primitive nature1 9 fact1 !y 7 only ^? 9 use = dome/ic sew+1 & ! subsequ5t ma*9es made especially = /raw "w1 did n develop ! niceties :i* n[ are "p ( ! con/ruction ( ! up-to-date ma*9e1 & yet1 9 spite ( ^! drawbacks1 ! ma*9e "w done by ! er/:ile h&-sew]s has nev] be5 surpass$1 al?\gh by aid ( ! possibilities ( adju/m5t & ! adv5t ( me*anical p[] ! pres5t spe$ capacity has be5 at lea/ d\bl$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ae ,,section ,,( ,,roll]s1 ,,%[+ ,,"o ,,flat ,,section ,,= ,,headless ,,plaits1 ,,& ,,six ,,) ,,groov$ ,,recesses ,,= ,,receiv+ ,,! ,,heads ,,9 ,,! ,,v>i\s ,,sizes ,,necess>y ,,= ,,diff]5t ,,wid?s ,,( ,,plait ,a process common to bo? h& & ma*9e sew+ is ! 8mill+0 ( plait be=e us+4 ,?is obta9s ma9ly1 if n :olly1 on plaits made ( /raw4 ,9 h& sew+ times x 0 an absolute necessity1 z x imp>t$ a requisite pliability to ! some:at h>% fibres1 & p]mitt$ _! easi] adju/m5t 9 sew+ to ! requirem5ts ( ! %ape4 ,x also1 on ^? plaits :i* _h 8heads10 acc5tuat$ ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! head & ! foot1 giv+ a great] boldness ( effect4 ,! mills us$ = ?is purpose 7 made ) bee* wood frames & ) boxwood roll]s4 ,g5]ally ^! roll]s 7 design$ & cut to take all wid?s ( plait1 & ! 8trolls10 z ! individual grooves 7 designat$1 7 made ) a d\ble recess1 ! small] "o ( :i* p]mitt$ ! head ( ! plait to escape ! pressure ex]t$ on ! foot4 7,see ,fig4 #ae47 ,:5 ! extra dem& = ma*9e made hats arose x 0 f\nd t ! h>%] plaits ( ,*9a 7 too we>+ on ! wood5 roll]s1 & mills made ( iron 7 produc$1 b on ! same active pr9ciples z %[n above4 ,to-day ! majority ( plaits us$ 9 ! trade are n mill$1 only ! co>s] & h>d] /raw v>ieties be+ occasionally done4 ,all ,tagal & s(t p$al plaits c be ma*9$ )\t mill+1 ow+ to ! pressure me*anism :i* is n[ "p ( all ! plait sew+ ma*9es4 ,,*apt] ,x ,,/iff5+ ,! g5]al description ( ! actual sew+ ( a /raw hat1 :e!r by h& or ma*9e1 mu/ be foll[$ by ! /atem5t t :5 sewn ! hat is inv>iably 9 a limp condition1 t is x is q unfit = g5]al we>4 ,!re are "s few plaits1 :5 made into hats1 s firm 9 _! consi/5cy z to require little or ev5 no assi/ance to keep !m 9 %ape4 ,^! %apes are ma9ly ( ! 8floppy0 ord]1 & are design$ ei!r to we> z 8picture0 hats or to be manipulat$ 9 su* a mann] z to make a 8toque0 effect4 ,f ! e>lie/ p]iod ( mak+ hats = fa%ionable we>1 & t c]ta9ly is n m ?an two c5turies ago1 "s process 0 necess>y to keep ! hat1 :e!r wov5 or sewn1 9 ! requir$ %ape4 ,! fir/ me?ods 7 by ! ins]tion ( a k9d ( wick] f\ndation1 :i* all[$ ! %ape to be m\ld$ to x2 & by simil> mat]ials ?read$ ?r\gh ! r[s ( ! plait1 or be+ atta*$ !reto by sew+2 also by f9e wires :i* 7 utiliz$ 9 ! same way z ! wick]4 ,:alebone 0 also us$ z a support1 & 9 ! con/ruction ( ! huge hats common dur+ ! ,georgian p]iod1 c>dbo>d & buckram 7 us$4 ,b all ^! articles1 effective ?\gh !y might h be51 7 ( su* great weight t means 7 s\ght to f9d a m$ium t w\ld give ! desir$ result )\t increas+ ! weight4 ,"o mu/ rememb] t ) ! use ( :ole /raws a hat ( l>ge size w\ld be v heavy )\t ! addition ( wick]1 wire1 or buckram1 & :51 dur+ ! craze = ,fr5* fa%ions :i* foll[$ ! sign+ ( ! ,treaty ( ,ami5s1 small] hats came into vogue1 su* /r5g!n]s made ! hats look clumsy & di/ort$4 ,! g5ius1 :e!r ,briton or =eign]1 :o discov]$ ! use ( glue or gelat9e = ! /iff5+ ( /raw hats1 is unkn[n1 al?\gh x is v probable he or %e 0 ,fr5*4 7,:5 ! writ] 0 appr5tic$ to a firm ( hat mak]s 9 ,p>is 9 #ahgg1 he 0 giv5 to und]/& t ! fir/ gelat9e process = hats 0 us$ 9 ,p>is4 ,if ! "n ( ! inv5tor 0 giv51 he has entirely =gott5 x1 b to ! be/ ( 8 recollection no "n 0 m5tion$47 ,b o!r mat]ials su* z />* & is+lass _h be5 tri$1 b none f\nd entirely satisfactory until ! use ( glue 0 adopt$4 ,gelat9e is a f9e v>iety ( glue1 & 0 develop$ fir/ by ! ,fr5* glue mak]s2 among ! =emo/ ( :om 7 ,coignet ,frres1 ( ,lyons1 f\nd$ 9 #ahah4 ,! manufacture ( gelat9e is n[ almo/ univ]sal1 b ,messrs4 ,coignet /ill reta9 a v high cr$it = _! w>es4 ,x is q probable t ei!r "s glue us$ = jo9]y or gelat9e b\ght = cook]y purposes 0 fir/ tri$ on /raw hats by ! inv5tor1 & d\btless ) su* success t x 0 spe$ily tak5 up by all /raw work]s1 & to-day no o!r m$ium is us$ = ! /iff5+ ( actual /raws4 ,t us$ = ! purpose is specially made1 & is 9 v>y+ qualities ( /r5g? & col\r4 ,= :ite goods gelat9e ( ! pure/ col\r is necess>y1 :ile = black or d>k col\rs1 a gelat9e ( d>k biscuit t9t is g5]ally us$1 z its price is mat]ially less ?an t ( ! bett] col\r4 ,! ma9 requirem5ts 9 a gelat9e are #a/1 col\r2 #bnd1 no t5d5cy :5 be+ us$ to fro?2 #crd1 :5 dry an ela/ic & firm result4 ,! second condition is probably ! mo/ necess>y1 z al?\gh gelat9e is capable ( be+ r$uc$ ) wat] to su* a degree ( fluidity1 t x af=ds ! be/ m$ium = p5etrat+ ! /raw & giv+ x ! requir$ /r5g?1 if ! quality is n good ! mixture :5 us$ w fro? l soapy wat]1 & ?us h a t5d5cy to leave a snaily appe>ance on ! hat4 ,! me?od ( prep>ation = 8/iff5+10 z ! process is t]m$ 9 ! trade1 is by soak+ ! gelat9e 9 cold wat] = a suffici5t t]m to enable x to become q s(t & flaccid1 & aft]w>ds ) heat to melt x d[n 9 its s(t5+ ba?4 ,! weight ( gelat9e & quantity ( wat] v>y accord+ to diff]5t =mulae = ! 8/ock0 mixture1 & 8/iff5+s0 ( less] /r5g? are made by ! addition ( wat] to a c]ta9 quantity ( ! 8/ock40 ,9 almo/ any hat = ladies1 ! cr[n is /iff5$ ) a weak] solution ?an ! brim1 & !re=e two /r5g?s are g5]ally provid$ = ?is purpose4 ,two me?ods are adopt$ by ! work]s = /iff5+ /raw hats1 8spong+0 & 8roll+40 ,! =m] consi/s1 :5 ! hat is on ! wood5 block1 ( spong+ ! hot gelat9e on to ! /raw ) a 8dabb+0 motion1 & :5 ! plait is ?or\ghly saturat$1 us+ a w>m1 ne>ly dry sponge to cle> all surplus f ! surface4 ,! latt] me?od is effect$ by rapidly dipp+ or 8roll+0 "o or m hats into ! gelat9e ba?1 & !n all[+ !m to dra91 aft]w>ds plac+ !m s+ly on ! block & spong+ out ! sup]fluity ( gelat9e4 ,! fir/ way is g5]ally us$ = ! highe/ class "w1 z :5 well done !re is less t5d5cy = ! dri$ hat to crackle & a decid$ incl9ation t[>ds a resili5t f9i%4 ,b ! second plan is v successful on "s mat]ials1 & be+ mu* quick] to effect is g5]ally practis$ among manufactur]s h&l+ l>ge quantities4 ,x has "o advantage1 x c be done by less skill$ or c>eful op]atives ?an ! 8spong+10 :i* ne$s c>eful att5tion4 ,! /raw boat] = m5 dur+ its /iff5+ is (t5 soak$ 9 ! 8/iff5+0 ba? = an appreciable "t 9 ord] t ! gelat9e may ?or\ghly soak into all ! fibres ( ! plait2 b t also1 :5 x em]ges1 is spong$ ov] to remove excess4 ,! g5]al plan ( /iff5+ a s+le piece hat 7ladies' hat7 ) gelat9e is = ! op]ator to place ! cr[n ( ! hat correctly on ! wood5 block4 ,! sponge hav+ be5 dipp$ into ! prop] ba?1 ! cr[n is ev5ly & ?or\ghly saturat$ ) ! gelat9e4 ,x is !n 8dry spong$0 to cle> ! surface1 & ! op]ator c>efully arranges ! r[s to syn*ronize ) ! edges ( ! block & ) ea* o!r4 ,)draw+ ! cr[n block1 ! hat is next put on ! brim block1 & ! spong+ & arrang+ op]ations are repeat$1 b 9 ! case ( a wide brim ! 8/iff5+0 us$ is f a /rong] solution ba?4 ,be=e ! sew] h&s ov] ! hat to ! 8/iff5]10 ! hat has to be 8/rung10 i4e4 a f9e ?read is s atta*$ to x z to af=d a conv5i5t means ( hang+ ! hat up to dry1 & :5 ! /iff5] has f9i%$ 8 op]ation he susp5ds ! hat on a wood5 rod1 :i* is plac$ ne> him 9 a conv5i5t position4 ,^! rods are f #c ft4 to #d ft4 long1 accord+ to individual ne$s1 & ab\t #a 94 squ>e3 on ! long] ones f f\r to six hats c be hung1 & :5 full ! rod is plac$ 9 a suitable rack ) cov]+ ov]head1 b 9 a position freely op5 to ! air4 ,! be/ results are obta9$ f natural air dry+1 :e!r by w9d or by a me*anically arrang$ draught f a c5trifugal fan1 b 9 cases ( "t pressure1 :]e goods are want$ quickly1 rec\rse is made to a dry+ room1 :i* w>m$ ei!r by fire or by /eam heat$ coils is able to ensure a dry heat1 by :i* ! moi/ure 9 ! hats is soon evaporat$ & ! gelat9e all[$ to set4 ,?is plan is only useful 9 extremity1 = 9 ! e>ly /ages :ile ! moi/ure 9 ! hats is at its greate/ volume1 ! gelat9e has a t5d5cy to run t[>ds ! l[e/ hang+ portions ( ! hat1 ) ! result ( unev5 /r5g?s2 & fur!r1 :5 ! moi/ure is driv5 (f1 ! gelat9e reta9$ is r5d]$ m or less brittle1 los+ entirely ! mu* desir$ t\ghness & resili5cy4 ,ano!r po9t aga9/ dry+ by heat is t x requires a /rong]1 & !re=e m co/ly1 solution ( gelat9e to be us$1 9 ord] to c\nt]act ! wa/age caus$ by runn+ & ! weakness consequ5t on ! dri$ up gelat9e4 ,! above me?ods are ^? 9 use = all /raw1 tagal or hemp1 & = all *ip plaits4 ,x is also us$ = real horsehair cr9ol9e1 b ! imitations ( ?is article be+ ( viscose1 cellulose1 or simil> f\ndation fibres1 require special mixtures ( gelat9e ) "s acid1 su* z acetic1 to h>d5 ! fibre & prev5t x %r9k+ or dissolv+1 & ) "s volatile fluid su* z me?ylat$ _s1 to enc\rage ! rapid evaporation ( ! /iff5+ & ?us r$uce to a m9imum ! det]iorat+ effects ( a liquid ( any k9d on ! artificial fibres4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #af ,,/iff5+ ,,/raw ,,hats ,ano!r me?od ( /iff5+ ^! susceptible plaits is by "s mixture ( a res9\s nature1 pref]ably t ( %ellac dissolv$ 9 _s4 ,?is me?od has1 ( c\rse1 sev]al v>iations :i* are jeal\sly gu>d$ by ! inv5tors1 b ! f\ndation ( all ( !m is on ! above l9es4 ,9 ^! cases ! 8/iff5+0 or really 8pro(+0 7= x is1 ( c\rse1 wat]pro(7 is appli$ ) a bru% & c>e has to be us$ n to clog ! int]/ices ( ! fabric4 ,!re are _m disadvantages to ! use ( ?is m$ium1 & its use is n g5]al4 ,cotton fibre plaits are g5]ally /iff5$ ) a gelat9e solution simil> to ! viscose me?od1 b ano!r process 0 evolv$ = black cotton hats1 by :i* a res9\s solution aft] application 0 burn$ (f 9 a block+ ma*9e1 comb9+ at ! "o "t ! dual processes ( /iff5+ & block+4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 c only be tak5 advantage ( :5 ! p>ticul> v>iety ( ma*9e1 ) spelt] male & female blocks1 0 available4 7,?is w be describ$ "u ! head ( ,block+47 ,^!1 9 ! ma91 are ! 8/iff5+0 me?ods 9 use 9 ! /raw hat trade z x is to-day1 :5 ! mat]ials us$ = hats are prep>$ to _! f9al appe>ance /age be=e be+ sewn1 b 9 ! e>ly days ( ! trade :5 ! f9i%$ plait 0 q crude z comp>$ ) t ( ?is c5tury1 "s me?ods 7 utiliz$ dur+ /iff5+ to alt] or improve ! col\r ( ! hat or bonnet4 ,! e>lie/ attempt 9 ?is direction 0 ! production ( a :ite col\r on /raw4 ,x has be5 %[n 9 previ\s *apt]s t ! e>ly blea*+s simply improv$ ! natural col\r ( ! /raw1 & did n remove its yell[ t9t+4 ,b x 0 f\nd possible dur+ ! /iff5+ to c>ry ! improvem5t a /age fur!r4 ,?is 0 done by ! mixture ( "s acid1 su* z oxalic1 sorrel & o!r simil> *emicals1 9 ! gelat9e ba?4 ,^! _h a dual effect1 !y kept ! gelat9e f return+ gradually to its pri/9e br[ny-yell[ t9t1 & :5 ! hat 0 /iff5$ ! *emically treat$ 8/iff5+0 0 m easily affect$ 9 ! blea*+ by ! fabrics ( sulphur4 7,incid5tally "o may rem>k t ! addition ( a simil> *emical action to t produc$ by ! above-m5tion$ acids1 w mat]ially improve ! col\r ( ev5 ! d>ke/ t9t$ gelat9e47 ,b ev5 "u all ^! improvem5ts1 plait c\ld n be made z :ite z fa%ion dem&$ sixty or sev5ty ye>s ago4 ,attempts 7 made to produce ! requir$ article by mak+ plait simil> to 8twi/0 or 8,luton0 ) ! /raws plaitt$ inside out1 t is ! two spl9ts us$ = ea* /raw 7 laid ) ! outsides ( ! /raws toge!r1 leav+ ! inside ( ! /raw1 or 8rice10 :i* is mu* pal] 9 col\r1 on ! outside ( ! plait4 ,?is1 :5 blea*$1 0 mat]ially :it] ?an t ) ! silicate outside1 b x did n come up to ! requir$ /&>d4 ,a me?od 0 introduc$ call$ 8,enamell+0 or 8,compo+10 :i* consi/$ ( a pa/e made ( />*1 or is+lass1 or gelat9e1 mix$ ) v>i\s :ite p[d]s1 mak+ :5 ready = use a ?icki% :itewa%4 ,?is provid$ bo? /iff5+ & col\r+ to ! hat4 ,b ?is 9 itself 0 an additional weight1 & z all plaits ) heads made ! prop] di/ribution ( ! enamel v difficult1 "s smoo!r & light] m$ium _h to be f\nd4 8#g ends ,split0 0 ! *os5 plait1 & = sev]al ye>s enamell$ split bonnets 7 a mo/ fa%ionable feature4 ,! modus op]&i 0 to spread ! 8enamel0 or 8compo0 ov] ! outside surface ( ! bonnet or hat1 9 a p]fectly ev5 mann]1 s t :5 dry x pres5t$ ! appe>ance ( be+ ev5ly :itewa%$4 ,! f9al t\* 0 giv5 by iron+ ! hat v c>efully on ! block1 ) a b>e iron n too hot2 ?is imp>t$ a slight glaze1 :i*1 if unscor*$1 0 really v f9e4 ,v>i\s o!r m$ia h be5 us$ at diff]5t times = /iff5+ /raw hats1 su* z dextr9e & o!r f>9ace\s products1 & res9\s & o!r gums1 soluble 9 _s or 9 wat]4 ,ma*9es h be5 utiliz$ = /iff5+1 b ! little advantages !refrom 7 s ov]weight$ by ! disadvantages1 t !y h nev] obta9$ any popul> support & to-day x is probably n too mu* to say t e /raw hat is /iff5$ actually by h&4 ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,block+ ,,by ,,h& ,! process ( 8,block+10 z ! next op]ation 9 ! mak+ ( a /raw hat is t]m$1 consi/s ( "s me?od1 ei!r by h& or ma*9]y1 to place ! some:at unc\? look+ article1 exhibit$ by ! dri$ /iff5$ hat1 into its ultimate =m4 ,naturally1 ! ?or\ghly s(t5$ %ape1 saturat$ ) hot gelat9e & hung to ! rod by a ?read1 assumes dur+ dry+ an appe>ance totally at v>iance ) ! prop] %ape1 & 9 ord] to a*ieve ! correct outl9e "s means has to be employ$ t w at ! same "t r5d] ! gelat9e am5able & also fix ! cont\rs4 ,ev] s9ce hats h be5 made1 :e!r 9 ! olde/ wov5 =m1 or 9 ! m rec5t plait sewn way1 ?is process has be5 a necessity4 ,9 fact ! smoo?+ = we> ( ! f9i%$ hat is a process consid]ably old] ?an t ( giv+ "s extra firmness4 ,9 ! acc\nt ( ! mak+ ( ! ,panama m5tion has be5 made ( ! use ( wood5 mallets to oblit]ate ! ridges caus$ by ! 8setts0 & to give a g5]al outl9e ( con=mity to ! hood1 & ev5 s 9 ! case ( ,briti% made hats1 ev5 be=e ! /iff5+ me?ods ( wick]1 wire or buckram1 hats 7 giv5 a smoo!n+ f9i% by means ( "s simil> in/rum5t4 ,x is probable t 9 ! e>li] times wood5 tools 7 us$ "h1 b ( ^! !re are no records cle>ly indicat+ _! nature4 ,! e>lie/ in/rum5t us$ 9 ! trade ( :i* !re are exi/+ examples 7 t]m$ 8,slick5 ,/ones40 ,( ^! !re are two f9e specim5s 9 ! ,luton ,free ,libr>y1 & !y are ( diff]5t sizes1 "o ab\t #d ins4 diamet] & "o ab\t #f ins4 ,!y are circul>1 b flatt5$ ) a r\nd$ bevel edge some?+ l ! %ape ( a muff91 b ) v smoo? surfaces4 ,_! mission 0 to remove all inequalities f ! hat aft] weav+ or sew+1 contribut+ at ! same "t a smoo?ness :i* c\ld n be obta9$ f wood4 ,!y 7 probably us$ f ! e>lie/ hat mak+ times1 & c]ta9ly play$ a "p 9 ! smoo?+ ( hats made on wick]4 ,:e!r !y 7 ne$$ = ! wire f\ndation$ %apes is unc]ta91 z ?is m$ium 0 s easily adju/$ by ! f+]s1 b !y und\bt$ly 7 ext5sively employ$ 9 ! %ap+ ( ! buckram supports1 z ?is article1 slightly damp1 c\ld be easily m\ld$4 ,!y 7 us$ cold1 & ! probability is t 9 ! wick] & ! buckram me?ods1 a slight /eam+ ov] boil+ wat]1 imm$iately foll[$ by ! application & use ( ^! cold 8,slick50 /ones1 w\ld result 9 ! possibility ( %ap+ & at ! same "t 8sett+0 ! mat]ial4 ,ab\t ! comm5cem5t ( ! n9ete5? c5tury !y 7 9 common use ar\nd ! ,s\? ,b$=d%ire hat mak+ c5tres1 & !re is no d\bt !y 7 successful 9 _! op]ations on hats bo? wov5 & sewn t 7 suffici5tly firm 9 _! /raw nature4 ,f :at c be glean$ !y 7 /ill 9 use :5 ! fir/ gelat9e 0 us$1 b z ! necess>y /eam+ or s(t5+ ( ! hat 0 ano!r process1 ! old e/abli%$ me?od 0 soon sup]s$$ by ! use ( irons1 = x 0 f\nd t ) a damp clo? ov] ! hat1 ! iron at "o "t c\ld produce its own /eam & s(t5 ! /iff5$ mat]ial1 & also make ! hat con=m to ! %ape ( ! block4 ,at ! "t ( ! gelat9e introduction1 %apes 7 all ( v>iations ( ! 8,poke10 8,coalscuttle10 or 8,granny0 bonnet /yles1 & ! smoo?+ or iron+ ( !m 0 done on a 8block10#a some?+ ! %ape ( a vault+ horse1 & ne>ly z l>ge1 = x _h legs long en\gh to make x suffici5tly high to "w at )\t /oop+4 ,! ends 7 made to take ! cr[n1 or r ! portion :i* hung at ! back ( ! head or nape ( ! neck ( ! we>]1 into :i* 0 set ! volum9\s 8poke0 or side brims ( ! 8petasus0 or coalscuttle type t completely oblit]at$ ! side views ( ! we>]'s face4 ,! poke c\ld be block$ on any "p ( ! 8horse0 except ! ends1 & its curves & outl9es v>i$ z occasion might require4 ,on ! introduction ( irons & ! use ( a damp clo?1 kn[n 9 ! trade z a 8/ra9]10 ! wood5 horse 0 ! only app>atus = block+ until ! adv5t ( o!r %apes necessitat$ fur!r & m complicat$ outl9es4 ,:5 ! 8iron0 9 pres5t use fir/ made its appe>ance 9 ! trade x has be5 impossible to f9d out4 ,x is :at is n[ univ]sally kn[n z a 8box iron10 consi/+ ( a w$ge %ap$ %ell ( metal ) flat top & bottom1 b ) curv$ sides1 into :i* a r$ hot 8pad10 or block ( iron to fit ! int]ior1 c\ld be put to imp>t to ! 8box0 ! necess>y heat4 ,t ?is /yle ( iron 0 kn[n long be=e ! beg9n+ ( ! n9ete5? c5tury is c]ta94 ,qua9t =ms = iron+ ! ,elizabe?an ruffs embody+ ! hot pad pr9ciple are /ill 9 exi/5ce1 b ! e>ly n9ete5? c5tury acc\nts ( ! in/rum5ts us$ 9 ! /raw trade are some?+ l ! ,hi/ory ( ,engl& betwe5 ,a4,d4 #ejj & ,a4,d4 #hjj1 extremely hazy6 ,!re=e1 x is impossible to fix ! exact date ( its introduction to ! trade2 "o may conjecture t1 l 8,topsy0 9 ,uncle ,tom's ,cab91 8x gr[$40 ,its trade bir? 0 probably accid5tal1 b its exi/5ce has be5 ph5om5al 9 duration1 = al?\gh ma*9]y = block+ is n[ do+ a lot ( "w =m]ly done by h&1 /ill 9 mo/ factories h& iron+ occupies a v prom95t place1 & ev5 :]e hats are block$ by ma*9e 9 _m cases !y ne$ r\ghly %ap+ fir/ by h&4 ,h& block+ is done 9 ! foll[+ mann]3 ! hat to be iron$ is fir/ put ?r\gh "s process to make ! h>dness ( ! gelat9e suffici5tly s(t to fit ! blocks4 ,9 ! e>ly days ( ! trade ?is 0 always done by lightly pass+ ! hot iron ov] a damp clo? 9 :i* ! hat 0 envelop$1 ?us produc+ en\gh /eam to r5d] ! hat pliable1 ! cr[n 0 !n c>efully adju/$ on ! block1 special att5tion be+ giv5 to ! spac+ & direction ( ! r[s ( plait4 ,ab\t #ahhj /raw hat manufactur]s1 hav+ also />t$ ! mak+ ( felt hats1 = :i* a small /eam jet 9 an enclos$ box or vessel 0 necess>y1 f\nd t ?is same 8/eam pot0 7trade t]m7 provid$ an easy means ( s(t5+ ! hat1 = plac+ on ! wood5 block1 & s9ce t "t ! old me?od ( s(t5+ has practically di$ out1 ) ! exception ( su* plaits z w\ld be injur$ by /eam action4 ,:5 ! cr[n ( ! hat is 9 prop] position on ! block1 x is cov]$ ) ! 8/ra9]40 ,?is %\ld be 9 a well wrung-out damp condition1 & is held 9 its place by ! left h& ( ! 8block]10 ! iron+ op]ative4 ,) ! box iron 9 8 "r h&1 he ev5ly & ) a slightly circul> motion1 keep+ ! iron on ! hat1 presses out any inequalities t may be left1 b ) su* discretion z n to injure ! design ( ! plait4 ,?is process cont9ues until ! 8/ra9]0 is dry1 :i* indicates t all sup]flu\s moi/ure is evaporat$ & t ! mat]ial w /ay p]man5tly 9 ! requir$ =m4 ,"s plaits ) prom95t heads or fancy embelli%m5ts require two or m 8/ra9]s0 or ev5 a ?ickness ( flannel betwe5 ! iron & ! hat to prev5t bruis+1 b plaits su* z ^! are g5]ally 8block$0 by be+ 8/eam$0 7trade t]m71 t is ! %ap+ on ! block is entirely done by ! h& ( ! op]ator aft] ! mat]ial has be5 s(t5$ 9 ! 8/eampot40 ,:5 hats are1 z !y always 7 till ab\t #ahhe1 ( 8"o piece0 make1 ! cr[n hav+ be5 f9i%$1 is tak5 (f ! wood5 block & plac$ head d[nw>d 9 ! 8curl]0 or 8brimm]0 ( wood4 ,ei!r "n suffici5tly designates its =m & use1 & ! 8"o piece0 hat is c>efully adju/$ 9 ! head entry1 due reg>d be+ made to ! cont\r ( ! base ( ! cr[n1 & ! arrangem5t ( ! fir/ gores ( ! brim1 s z to ensure a p]fectly clean l9e ( junction betwe5 ! cr[n & ! brim4 ,! brim is !n adju/$ to ! exact outl9e ( ! edge1 & :5 true is 8block$0 9 a simil> way to ! cr[n4 ,! two piece hats are done 9 ! same way )1 ( c\rse1 ! exception t ! cr[n & ! brim are block$ ap>t4 ,x is1 ( c\rse1 obvi\s t only q a small portion ( "s p>ts ( ! hats c be iron$ at a "t1 ! surface ( ! iron c only1 at mo/1 imp+e on t am\nt :i* is p>allel1 &1 !re=e1 ! block+ ( a cr[n ) r\nd+ top1 bevell$ edges & p]haps almo/ 8,o4 ,g40 sides1 is an op]ation ne$+ consid]able skill1 = no l9es mu/ %[1 nor mu/ !re be any bruise m>ks1 & yet at ! same "t !re mu/ be en\gh pressure to cause ! mat]ial to assume & reta9 ! requir$ %ape4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ag ,,h& ,,block+ ,) ,iron ,heat$ by ,electricity ,! irons are made ) v>i\s k9ds ( faces1 "s are p]fectly flat1 o!rs ) convex sweeps or curves1 ^! are call$ 8grecian0 irons1 & are int5d$ to be us$ 9 recess$ curves ( cr[n or brim1 :i* curves are kn[n z 8grecians10 b ! skilful op]ative c adapt ! curv$ sides ( a flat-fac$ box iron to mo/ ( ! concave places1 s t except = extreme undulations1 no rec\rse to ! curv$ fac$ iron is necess>y4 ,!re are _m modifications ( ^! g5]al rules & me?ods1 & x may be necess>y 9 c]ta9 cases1 su* z ! iron+ ( braids /iff5$ ) m$ia o!r ?an gelat9e or wat] soluble mat]ials1 to employ o!r me?ods1 b !y are g5]ally peculi> to ! plait us$ & ( a purely ephem]al nature4 ,9 "s factories box irons are us$1 heat$ by pat5t fuel1 o!rs are w>m$ by gas & electricity1 b ! g5]al conv5i5ce ( ! fire-heat$ pad causes ! old fa%ion$ iron to reta9 an almo/ univ]sal supremacy4 ,9 "w x is j z conv5i5t z any o!r1 & 9 co/ x mu/ ( necessity be l[]1 = e factory mu/ h fire = /eam production & g5]al w>m?1 & ! coke burn+ furnaces 9 use 9 ! small] factories are usually con/ruct$ to a*ieve ^! two objects1 & at ! same "t heat ! block]'s pads4 ,9 ! l>g] e/abli%m5ts /eam = heat+ & work+ is g5]ally rais$ 9 sep>ate adequately l>ge boil]s1 ) a specially con/ruct$ & economical furnace = pad heat+4 ,?is is made ) a %all[ b$1 a broad iron lip1 on :i* pads c be *ang$1 & a guillot9e-l con/ruction 9 front1 ) a 8bl[]0 :i* c be made to rise or fall1 z occasion may dem& = ! regulation ( ! draught4 ,,footnote3 #a ,?is d\btless gave ! "n to ! op]ation ( %ap+4 ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,block+ ,,by ,,ma*9e ,! block+ ( hats by ma*9]y is a process mu* m rec5t 9 op]ation ?an h& "w1 & al?\gh its orig9 is m or less inside ! possibility ( a liv+ man's memory1 s confus$ are ! data connect$ ) x t little or no reliability c be plac$ on ! great] numb] ( ! traditions4 ,"o ?+ alone /&s out cle>ly z a def9ite indication ( fir/ use1 & t is ! c]ta9 s5iority ( ! press+ ( ,leghorn hats4 ,x is almo/ self-evid5t t nei!r ma*9]y or blocks to /& ma*9e pressures w\ld be made = ! manufacture ( unlikely or transi5t mat]ials & %apes1 & :ile ! fa%ion ( 8,granny0 bonnets1 etc41 0 con/ant = ne>ly half a c5tury1 ! details ( _! %apes (f]$ too _m difficulties to ! w\ld-be mak] ( a ma*9e to press !m1 to induce any great inv5tive ef=t on 8 "p4 ,x ne$$ some?+ simple 9 outl9e1 & some?+ t c\ld be done 9 l>ge & recurr+ quantities1 to give to ! inv5tor ! necess>y impetus to produce a ma*9e to imp>t to ! hats _! f9al f9i%4 ,& #ajj ye>s ago !re 0 no?+ 9 ! /raw m>ket1 us$ ei!r = hats or bonnets1 t fulfill$ ! above conditions except ! ,leghorn hat4 ,! mak+ ( ?is has be5 describ$ 9 a =m] *apt]4 ,! e>ly me?ods1 ei!r by wood mallet or slick5/one did n adequately fill ! requirem5ts2 h& iron+ 0 ne>ly z t$i\s & 0 r dang]\s1 z ! ,tuscan /raw ( ! ,leghorns 0 s easily scor*$1 & z ! dem& increas$ ! desire = a m exp$iti\s1 safe & uni=m me?od ( press+ grew ) x4 ,! e>lie/ in=mation1 giv5 ) "s res]ve1 is t an iron pan or di% 0 made1 m\ld$ to ! %ape ( ! hat1 & t ?is 0 fix$ ov] a metal cauldron 9 :i* wat] 0 kept at ! boil1 or 0 w>m$ direct by *>coal fires4 ,^! heat$ ! pan suffici5tly = ! purpose2 9 fact1 to-day1 ) all ! improvem5ts1 & !y are legion1 /eam heat+ 9 ?is mann] to block+ ma*9es is /ill g5]al4 ,! hat 0 damp$ & laid prop]ly 9 ! pan to its %ape1 & 0 press$ on ! inside by a conv5i5t tool ( h>d wood or /one1 ei!r ( :i* 0 suffici5t to squeeze ! wet-s(t5$ /raw into ! crevices att5dant on ! edge ( ! cr[n & ! corn] made by ! junction ( ! cr[n & ! brim1 & to imp>t ! necess>y %ape to all sections ( ! hat4 ,! next move t[>ds ! pres5t models1 0 to h ! pan z above1 ) a wood51 or sometimes iron1 block :i* w\ld1 :5 ! hat 0 laid 9 position1 fit into x 9 su* a mann] z to convey an equal imp+em5t on all p>ts4 ,?is 0 adju/$ by means ( an ov] work+ screw1 by :i* "s l>ge pressures c\ld be giv54 ,b ^! simple me?ods _h great disadvantages2 x 0 impossible to entirely syn*ronize ! pressure on e hat1 & x 0 extremely l5g?y & t$i\s4 ,a ,mr4 ,samuel ,h[>d1 ( ,luton1 inv5t$ a press on simil> l9es1 b ! action 0 horizontal in/ead ( v]tical1 ?is s]v$ a v good purpose = a p]iod until ,,mm4 ,desbordes1#b ( ,p>is1 introduc$ _! hydraulic press4 ,?is consi/$ ( a /eam heat$ *amb] 9 :i* 0 plac$ ! metal 8pan0 or 8di%10 x be+ ! 8female0 m\ld ( ! requir$ %ape4 ,! pressure 0 obta9$ by an ov]head *amb] to :i* an india-rubb] bag 0 fa/5$4 ,?is *amb] 0 v /rong & heavy1 & 01 z x 71 "o end ( a balance1 work+ on trunnions1 at ! o!r end ( :i* 7 two l>ge metal balls z c\nt]poise4 ,to br+ into op]ation1 ! *amb] 0 pull$ d[n s t ! c5tre ( ! india-rubb] bag1 :i* 0 made ) a teat1 came into ! cr[n op5+ ( ! pan2 ! *amb] 0 securely fa/5$ by means ( screw lugs to ! portion hold+ ! pan1 & a hydraulic press 0 put into action :i* fill$ ! rubb] bag ) a suffici5t pressure ( wat] to di/ribute ! p[] all ov] ! hat 9 ! pan2 a gauge %[$ ! pressure obta9$ & consequ5tly an equal am\nt c\ld be giv5 to e hat4 ,! results1 !re=e1 7 all alike1 & z ! press c\ld be lock$ & unlock$ 9 a fraction ( ! "t requir$ by ! screw process1 ! "w 0 greatly accel]at$4 ,_m improvem5ts h be5 made 9 block+ ma*9es s9ce !n 7ab\t #ahfj71 b all ! lat] models embody ! important feature ( ! hydraulic pressure ?r\gh ! rubb] bag4 ,! next important /ep 9 ! evolution ( me*anical block+ 0 t introduc$ by ,mr4 ,h5ry ,ke/on1 ( ,luton1 adapt$ f a model made by a ,mr4 ,b]es=d1 ( ,/ockport1 ,*e%ire4 ,?is improvem5t consi/$ ( erect+ r\nd /eel uprights on ! b$ ( ! /eam heat$ *amb]1 all[+ ! bag *amb]1 atta*$ to :i* 7 slides fitt+ ! uprights1 to rise & fall v]tically4 ,! c\nt]poise 0 effect$ by a *a91 atta*$ to ! top ( ! bag *amb]1 pass+ ov] a :eel support$ by a bracket at ! back ( ! ma*9e & load$ ) suffici5t weights to adju/ ! balance4 ,a h& or foot lev] pressure 0 suffici5t to raise or depress ! bag *amb]1 & wat] connection to x 0 obta9$ by means ( a cord$ re-in=c$ india-rubb] swan neck4 ,:5 ! *amb] _h desc5d$ to its prop] position x 0 lock$ by means ( a /\t /eel ?ree-arm$ "p l ! hub ( a :eel1 ) ?ree spokes radiat+ f x at equal di/ances4 ,! hub 0 pivot$ on ! c5tre ( ! top ( ! bag *amb]1 & a %ort lat]al movem5t ( ?is "p br\ght all ?ree spokes "u v /rong hook-l lugs1 & lock$ ! bag *amb] securely to ! pan *amb]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ah ,,ma*9e ,,block+ ,by ,press ( ,b]es=d-,ke/on ,type ,wat] pressure above ! supply pressure 0 effect$ by means ( a h& work$ hydraulic pump1 & ! =ce 0 reckon$ by a pressure gauge4 ,?is me?od 0 s mu* simpl] & easi] to "w1 & also 0 s mu* m rapid1 t x quickly sup]s$$ its pr$ecessor2 & n[1 aft] =ty ye>s' exp]i5ce1 is /ill ! fav\rite model1 al?\gh ! ma*9es ( to-day conta9 _m improvem5ts n to be f\nd 9 ! orig9al4 ,by all ^! desc5d+ bag *amb] models ! block+ ( ! hat is id5tical4 ,! only diff]5ce made is 9 ! am\nt ( pressure1 "s /raws tak+ m ?an o!rs )\t injury4 ,! hat hav+ be5 prop]ly 8r\gh$ out0 or 8sweat$10 t is %ap$ to its exact size )\t pressure by h& or ma*9e1 & /ill hold+ a little /eam moi/ure1 is plac$ accurately 9 ! pan1 ! outside ( ! hat to ! metal2 inside ! hat is di/ribut$ z ev5ly z may be a ?ick felt dummy 7to prev5t ! /raw f cutt+ ! bag74 ,if ! edge ( ! cr[n is v %>p1 su* z "o f9ds 9 a man's boat]1 a r+ ( vulcaniz$ rubb] or simil> mat]ial ) angles correspond+ to ! cr[n edge is plac$ 9 position inside ! cr[n be=e ! felt dummy is introduc$4 ,! bag *amb] is !n br\ght d[n1 securely lock$1 & ! wat] pressure appli$4 ,diff]5t mat]ials require diff]5t p]iods ( "t to prop]ly set1 b :ile "o is sett+ ! op]ator 8r\ghs out0 ano!r hat1 s t :5 ! me*anical process on ! "o is complete1 its successor is ready = ! op]ation4 ,a ma*9e1 ! pr9ciple ( :i* 0 int5d$ to apply to ! mak+ ( buckram %apes1 0 also adopt$ by ! /raw trade4 ,its fir/ adoption 0 due to ! introduction ( ! felt hat manufacture into ! di/ricts hi!rto peculi> to ! /raw hat mak+1 b x 0 f\nd to possess po9ts ( advantage 9 ! block+ ( c]ta9 mat]ials4 ,?is ma*9e has a 8female0 pan ( metal into :i* a prop]ly fitt$ 8male0 block1 ) ! accurate am\nt ( space = ! mat]ial to be us$1 may ent]1 =m+ ) ! pan & ! hat "o solid piece4 ,?is 8male0 block is also ( metal4 ,!y 7 fir/ ( iron & aft]w>ds 7 g5]ally ( spelt] or alum9ium4 ,9 ! p>ticul> case = :i* !y 7 mo/ ext5sively us$1 ! hat 0 made ( a cotton braid1 ! /iff5+ ( :i* 0 effect$ by a %ellac & me?ylat$ _s mixture1 z gelat9e 0 n f\nd entirely satisfactory4 ,bo? ! 8male0 & ! 8female0 blocks 7 heat$ by gas jets1 & :5 ! hat 0 /ill wet ) ! highly inflammable /iff5+ x 0 plac$ 9 position on ! l[] block1 ! o!r 0 adju/$ to x1 & :5 9 prop] place ! heat ( ! blocks1 or ! light ( ! gas jets1 fir$ ! /iff5+1 :i* rapidly burn$ ! _s out1 leav+ ! %ellac or o!r res9\s mat]ial 9 ! fibres ( ! braid 9 suffici5t quantity to r5d] ! hat h>d en\gh = its purpose1 & at ! same "t creat+ an almo/ wat]pro( fabric1 t enabl$ ! cotton to )/& ! s(t5+ influ5ces ( damp wea!r4 ,! op]ation 0 complet$ by releas+ ! movable block & tak+ out ! hat4 ,an entire revolution 9 ! sy/em ( block+ /raw hats 0 introduc$ 9 #aiac-ad by a ,m4 ,/(fel1 ( ,p>is4 ,?is me?od dep5ds = pressure on air only1 & by its means %apes almo/ if n impossible by any o!r me?od c be beautifully block$4 ,! app>atus consi/s ma9ly ( a vacuum res]voir f :i* all air is extract$1 creat+ a suction pressure ( ab\t #ac lb4 to ! squ>e in*1 exhau/$ by means ( a vacuum pump+ eng9e & p]=at$ blocks plac$ ov] copp] tables t are also p]=at$ & connect$ ) ! vacuum *amb]4 ,! blocks are ( wood or metal1 & bo? cr[ns & brims are made to ! =m ( ! outside ( ! hat1 & are 9 !mselves q indep5d5t ( ! copp] table4 ,! modus op]&i is z foll[s3 ! block to be us$ is w>m$ by /eam & is plac$ bottom upp]mo/ on ! copp] table4 ,! hat1 slightly moi/5$ by /eam1 is adju/$ c>efully on or 9 ! block1 cov]$ ) a l>ge wat] & air pro( clo? :i* c envelop ! :ole ( ! block & table1 & leave a suffici5t quantity to fill up ! cavity caus$ by ! int]ior ( ! cr[n1 or ! undulations ( ! brim4 ,! vacuum =ce is !n br\ght into action1 & ! suction creat$ draws ! clo?1 ) a pressure ( ab\t #aj to #ab lb4 to ! squ>e in*1 into e crevice or corn] =m$ by ! %ape ( ! hat & block2 ! suction set up draws (f z well any moi/ure evaporat$ by ! heat ( ! block1 & 9 a few mom5ts ! hat is suffici5tly dry to be remov$4 ,by ?is me?od cr[ns ( hats ) conc]t9a-l folds & creases c be p]fectly 8iron$10 us+ a block made ( only two sections1 :]eas 9 any o!r =m ( block+1 :]e simil> blocks mu/ be made 9 five sections1 ! result obta9$1 comp>atively speak+1 is m or less imp]fect4 ,moreov] ! process1 :ile be+ mu* m rapid1 does n require any?+ l ! same am\nt ( =ce exp5diture on ! "p ( ! workman z d ei!r h& or ma*9e block+4 ,ano!r important b5efit ( ?is inv5tion is t ! actual work+ app>atus c be arrang$ 9 ord9>y block+ b5*es1 ! copp] p]=at$ table tak+ up no m room ?an t usually occupi$ by a h& block]1 :]eas1 :ile o!r block+ ma*9es d n occupy 9 !mselves a great] area1 ! 8r\gh+ out0 or 8sweat+0 necessitates ! ord9>y h& block+ space :i* makes ! actual am\nt ne>ly d\ble4 ,x mu/ n be =gott5 t ! prelim9>y1 z "o may call x1 app>atus ( ! 8,/(fel0 sy/em requires space = ! vacuum eng9e & pump1 :ile ! vacuum res]voir tank is1 ( c\rse1 ( consid]able magnitude1 accord+ to ! s]vices requir$4 ,bo? ^!1 h[ev]1 c be plac$ 9 "s basem5t1 etc41 q away f ! actual block+ room4 ,:]eas ! e>li] models ne$ no extra area ?an ! actual work+ spaces1 ) ! exception ( ! /eam g5]at+ plant1 :i*1 h[ev]1 is common to all sy/ems1 & fur!r is a necessity = o!r purposes su* z heat+ ! v>i\s "w & dry+ rooms1 & also = melt+ & keep+ w>m ! gelat9e us$ = /iff5+1 etc4 ,b comp>$ ) ! ,desbordes & ,ke/on models1 ?is sy/em is n s well adapt$ = m5's boat]s "w4 ,up to ab\t #aiaj1 ! great bulk ( ru/ic boat]s 0 block$ on presses ( ! ,ke/on type1 & ev5 to-day boat] mak]s /ill make use ( !m4 ,! h>d-natur$ /raws t are g5]ally utiliz$ = boat]s require heavy pressure 9 v>y+ degrees accord+ to ! diff]5t v>ieties ( plaits1 & 9 ?is respect ! suction me?od is n suffici5t = ! high p[]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ai ,,ma*9e ,,block+ ,by ,press ( 8,bro*i]0 ,type ,ab\t #aiaj ano!r ,fr5* eng9e] put a block+ ma*9e on ! m>ket ) special claims = boat] "w4 ,m4 ,j4 ,b4 ,bro*i]1 ( ,lyons1 introduc$ ! model n[ kn[n :]ev] boat]s are made by ! "n ( 8,c>re ,vive10 ( :i* ! free translation1 8%>p edge10 suffici5tly indicates ! peculi> claim ( ! inv5tor4 ,?is ma*9e 9 /ructure is a comb9ation ( "s o!r block+ presses1 b ) a special contrivance = creat+ ! extra %>p edge1 & ( extra lightness & simplicity 9 work+4 ,x has ! guillot9e frame ( ! ma*9e m5tion$ = block+ cotton braids /iff5$ ) %ellac /iff5+1 ! pan *amb] heat$ by /eam1 ! india-rubb] bag = hydraulic pressure1 & ! bag-*amb] mov+ v]tically on uprights ( ! 8,ke/on0 or 8,b]es=d0 type4 ,b x diff]s f t ma*9e 91 fir/1 ! bag *amb] is really a plate ) a hole 9 ! c5tre to c>ry ! bag1 & is only ( ! mo/ meagre dim5sions ( ! lea/ possible weight4 ,second1 ?is is caus$ to desc5d into ! pan *amb] by a lev] actuat$ by ! op]ator's foot1 ! little weight ( x is balanc$ at ! end ( a lev] ) a small c\nt]weight1 obviat+ ! ov]head *a9 & pulley4 ,?ird1 ! fix$ contact ) ! pan *amb] is made by means ( a screw :eel1 a small turn ( :i* :5 ! hat & bag are 9 position1 firmly tight5s & locks ! two portions toge!r4 ,f\r?1 ! special cr[n edg+ action is done by a ris+ & fall+ movem5t made by ! bottom ( ! boat] pan1 :i* is actuat$ by means ( a lev] work+ on a rat*et by :i* ! pressure c be reta9$ until ! hat is ready = removal4 ,?is model is n[ ext5sively us$ = boat]s1 al?\gh at ! mom5t ( writ+ t extreme %>pness1 desirable 9 boat]s a few ye>s ago1 is n requir$ 9 ! season's models = ! home trade1 ! cr[n edges ( :i* are an almo/ imp]ceptible bevel4 ,^! practically exhau/ ! ma*9es = block+1 b !re are 9 use ?r\gh\t ! trade block+ presses = ! brims ( boat]s & ( "s v>ieties ( hats ) roll+ brims4 ,^! consi/ ei!r ( a flat metal plate1 or op5 pan con=m+ to ! curves ( ! roll$ brim1 heat$ ei!r by gas or /eam on1 or 91 :i* ! brim ( ! hat is arrang$1 & a wood5 block plac$ ov] x4 ,affix$ to ! plate or pan are two uprights ) a crossbeam1 9 ! c5tre ( :i* is a long quick act+ screw ) a small plate at ! bottom4 ,?is desc5ds on to ! wood5 block & creates suffici5t pressure to put ! brim ( ! hat 9 correct %ape4 ,x is f\nd v useful 9 8t\*+ up0 ! %ape ( a brim t may h be5 b5t or damag$ 9 ! trimm+1 z to put ! hat into ei!r ( ! o!r ma*9es w\ld necessitate ! tak+ away ( all trimm+s & l9+s4 ,! m5tion ( ^! articles br+s our hi/ory to its next /age--t ( ! actual 8,f9i%+10 z ! trade calls all ! op]ations done to ! hat aft] block+4 ,,footnote3 #b ,ab\t ?is !re is "s unc]ta9ty2 ! writ]1 f p]sonal recollection1 believes x to be correct1 b "s mod]n ,fr5*m5 claim ! hon\r on behalf ( ,m4 ,desireau1 :ile o!rs assign priority to ,m4 ,lgat4 ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,,f9i%+4 ,,poli%+4 ,,trimm+4 ,,l9+4 ,! /raw hat hav+ n[ arriv$ at ! /age :]e its actual manufacture ceases1 has /ill fur!r to und]go ! process ( embelli%m5t necess>y = its prop] appe>ance on ! c\nt]s ( ! m]*ant1 or 9 ! %[room ( ! mill9]4 ,a great _m hats ( ! 8,leghorn0 v>iety leave ! factories )\t any f9i% ( trimm+ or l9+1 b aft] !y leave ! block+ room !y h to und]go a process ( poli%+4 ,?is is done 9 "o or two ways4 ,! 8dry0 way is = ! hat to be put ?r\gh a sev]e bru%+1 done by rapidly revolv+ bru%es c>ry+ p[d]$ sulphur1 9 an air %aft :i* takes away ! residue ( ! p[d]4 ,?is gives to ! ,leghorn hat a velvety smoo?ness & incid5tally imp>ts a ri*] col\r1 ow+ to ! sulphur t f9ds its way into ! crevices ( ! /raw fibres2 al?\gh ! bru%+ is int5d$ to leave ! hat free f ! p[d]1 9 actual work+ t is f\nd to be ne>ly impossible4 ,! o!r way is ! 8wet10 & 9 ?is case ! hat is cov]$ all ov] ) a ?9 pa/e1 ( :i* sulphur is ! pr9cipal +r$i5t4 ,:5 dry ! block+ process is gone ?r\gh1 & ! hat subsequ5tly receives a bru%+ simil> to ! 8dry0 me?od1 b 9 ?is case ! object ( ! bru%+ is to remove e available p>ticle ( ! dri$ pa/e4 ,! advantage ( ?is me?od is great :]e ! col\r ( ! ,leghorn is none too f9e4 ,! wet sulphur mixture has a blea*+ effect on ! /raw1 & naturally t5ds to p5etrate bett] into ! fibres & crevices ?an ! p[d] alone4 ,! result is t ! tone ( ! hat is immeasurably beautifi$ & ) a long] la/+ col\r ?an is obta9$ by simply poli%+ ) dry p[d]4 ,:5 prop]ly bru%$ & ticket$ ,leghorns are !n completely ready = ! m>ket4 ,"s few o!r k9ds ( hats g out )\t any trimm+ or l9+1 b ! processes !y und]go w be set out 9 "o or ! o!r ( ! foll[+ descriptions4 ,e k9d ( /raw ne$s "s v>iety ( treatm5t be=e ! actual 8,f9i%+10 b g5]ally speak+ ^! treatm5ts are conf9$ to ! d>k] col\r$ plaits4 ,?us = *ip plaits black receives a coat+ ( "s oil su* z olive or nut1 etc4 ,?is levels up ! col\r ( ! plait & int5sifies ! black2 all o!r col\rs are simply cle>$ by /eam1 & receive no fur!r treatm5t4 ,= plaits ( actual /raw v>i\s ?+s h be5 us$ dur+ ! c\rse ( "t4 ,! fir/ me?od1 :5 only black1 navy blue & br[n col\rs 7 available1 0 to sm>tly bru% ! dry f9i%$ hat ) /iff h&-bru%es4 ,?is imp>t$ a fairly good %9y surface to ! /raw1 b x _h two drawbacks1 "o 0 t ! bru%+ did n 9 any way improve ! col\r ( ! sometimes faultily-dy$ plaits1 & ! o!r 0 a t5d5cy dur+ ! bru%+ ( r\gh+ up ! fibres ( ! /raw4 ,9 ^? e>ly days :5 l[ness ( price 0 n ! ma9 consid]ation1 _m hats h be5 gloss$ by bru%+ ov] ) :ite ( egg1 b ! exp5se ( t r5d]$ x useless = ! bulk ( ! goods4 ,! 8,japan ,black10 t 9 ! "t ( our fa!rs 0 utiliz$ e spr+ on ! h\sehold grates1 0 also tri$ on black /raw hats1 b its visc\s nature 0 q unsuitable = ! prop] poli%+ ( /raw4 ,x 0 n until ab\t #ahgj t a poli% made ( "s res9\s gums & me?ylat$ _s 0 put on ! /raw hat m>ket4 ,= black ?is 8poli%0 0 t9t$ ) a suitable col\r+ matt]1 & at fir/ ! f9d+ ( ! prop] +r$i5t t w\ld rema9 9 solution )\t precipitation 0 a long & t$i\s job2 h[ev]1 ?is 0 ev5tually effect$1 & n[ = "s ye>s ! v>i\s be/ br&s ( /raw hat _s poli% leave no?+ to be desir$4 ,a ,g]man firm1 ,messrs4 ,conrad ,s*midt ,co41 0 ab\t ! fir/ to m>ket 9 ,great ,brita9 a satisfactory _s poli%1 & ) recurr+ improvem5ts ?is br& ( poli%1 n[ made by ! ,london ,v>ni% ,co41 /ill obta9s a l>ge %>e ( /raw hat mak]s' dem&s4 ,br[n & blue _s poli%es 7 produc$ by dye+ ! gum & _s mixture ) an anil9e dye4 ,:ite _s poli% 0 ( two v>ieties1 "o ne>ly opaque :ite1 & ! o!r a cle> fluid ) j a slight yell[ t9t4 ,^! c be us$ on all col\r$ /raws o!r ?an black1 br[n & navy1 b _m manufactur]s omit to poli% ! v light tones su* z *ampagne1 silv] grey1 sky blue1 etc4 ,:ite1 ( c\rse1 is nev] poli%$4 ,:5 _s poli% 0 fir/ introduc$ x 0 v co/ly1 & on ! adv5t ( ! ,*9a plait to ^! m>kets1 x 0 f\nd to be r out ( proportion exp5sive to ! v *eap ,canton hats4 ,a poli% made ( ord9>y glue mix$ ) lamp black or *>coal 0 curr5t 9 ,luton ab\t #ahgj1 & la/$ 9 use = ! l[e/ price goods until _s poli% became a reasonable price4 ,! glue poli% (t5 smelt v na/y1 & 0 always badly affect$ by a humid w>m atmosph]e4 ,dur+ ! pa/ few ye>s :5 s _m v>ieties ( fibre h be5 utiliz$ = mak+ plaits1 all k9ds ( poli%+ m$ia h be5 exp]im5t$ )1 ev5 ! h\sehold bees' wax & turp5t9e has n be5 left out 9 ! cold1 b ^? t h made any la/+ m>k on ! mak+ ( a /raw hat are all ( !m 9 "s way comb9ations ( gums & _s4 ,! rapid evaporation ( any liquid put on a block$ hat is an absolute necessity1 x mu/ also n be able 9 any way to s(t5 ! gelat9e or o!r /iff5+ mat]ial1 & x mu/ leave a desir$ gloss on ! hat )\t be+ glassy or 8fatty0 look+4 ,fur!r1 x mu/ n mat]ially h>d5 ! fibres4 ,"s plaits are requir$ q bright2 = ^! ord9>y /raw hat poli% is correct2 o!rs are want$ ) an 8egg %ell0 %9e1 ^! are provid$ = 9 "o or ! o!r ( ! 8,lu/res0 & 8,silk ,f9i%es0 t are to be obta9$4 ,9 fact1 to-day !re is no mat]ial ( :i* hats are made t _c be prop]ly poli%$4 ,! la/ advantage ( ! _s poli% is t x gives a slight wat] pro(+ to ! ladies' hat1 & ! m5tion ( t br+s up ! "q ( ! wat]pro(+ ( m5's boat]s4 ,a boat] is g5]ally made ( ru/ic plait ( :i* ! saw-l edges lapp+ ov] ea* o!r =m a surface simil> to a til$ ro(1 & if x 7 possible to sew ! plait ) ! s]rations z regul> z til+1 ! result w\ld be %[]pro(1 b su* regul>ity is impossible1 & 9 ord] to make ?is mo/ useful hat /ill m s]viceable1 "o or two pat5ts h be5 tak5 out 9 ! direction ( mak+ x absolutely wat]pro(4 ,z f> z "o c ga!r 9 ! trade1 ! only me?od ( r5d]+ /raw hats ra9pro( n[ ext5sively us$ is t kn[n z ! 8,crav5ette40 ,aft] ! 8%ell0 ( ! boat] is sewn & /iff5$1 a special p[d] is appli$ c>efully ov] ! entire surface ( ! hat1 aft] :i* a spray ( ! pat5t liquid is made to ev5ly & ?9ly cov] ! p[d] caus+ x to dissolve & =m ! wat]pro(+ m$ium4 ,aft] dry+ ! hat is block$ 9 ! usual mann]1 & :5 done1 only an exp]t c tell f sight t ! hat has be5 treat$1 z ! col\r is 9 no way det]iorat$1 nor are ! fibres ( ! /raw *ang$ 9 any mann]4 ,! /raw hat1 :e!r boat] = mascul9e we> or ! ladies' fa%ionable hat1 is1 :5 ! poli% or f9i% is q dry1 ready = ! att5tions ( ! 8,f9i%]0 or 8,trimm]40 ,9 ! e>ly days ( ! ,briti% trade1 t is ab\t a c5tury ago1 ! "w ( ! f9i%] 0 v limit$4 ,practically all t 0 done 0 to ins]t "s k9d ( tempor>y l9+ to ! head fit1 & affix a small tab or ticket = ref]5ce purposes4 ,gradually z m intricate %apes began to be 9 public fav\r1 x 0 f\nd necess>y to add to ! above op]ations1 by ins]t+ at ! edge ( ! brim a metal wire cov]$ ) ei!r cotton or silk4 ,?is _h 9 view two purposes1 ! fir/ t by skilful b5d+ & %ap+ ! desir$ outl9e ( ! brim c\ld be produc$1 & ! o!r 0 t :5 ! prop] =m 0 a*iev$1 ! support ( ! wire assi/$ 9 its ret5tion4 ,z plaits ( lace-l appe>ance came on ! m>ket 7^? ( cr9ol9e & fancy adornm5ts1 = example7 ! tempor>y l9+s 7 made f v>i\s col\rs ( tissue pap]4 ,^! n only p]mitt$ a possible pur*as] to see at a glance all ! beauties ( ! plait1 b af=d$ means by :i* ! bonnet c\ld be tri$ on ! head1 ) ! lea/ *ance ( damage1 ei!r to ! %ape or ! we>]'s hair4 ,& m5tion+ bonnets1 up to #ahfj s mu* pr$om9ant 9 public reque/1 & ev5 to ! pres5t "t1 ! :olesale manufactur] ( !m has always us$ pap] = ! tempor>y l9+ = all made ( *ip or fancy plaits1 :ile = /raws ) _! h>d %>p heads1 likely to te> ! tissue pap]1 ! probably equally %ort liv$ l9+ 0 made ( f9e :ite musl94 ,a common reason = ^! tempor>y l9+s 7= !y 7 always remov$ by ! mill9] :5 trimm+7 0 t z bonnets 7 kept on ! %[ c\nt] or dispat*$ to _! de/9ation1 9 sausage l r[s :]e "o bonnet ne/$ 9 ano!r1 ! l9+ prev5t$ any protub]ance ( ! plaits us$ f cat*+1 & ?us any "p ( ! r[ c\ld be tak5 f ! o!r ) ! greate/ facility4 ,b by #ahej hats began to assume a consid]able volume1 & = ^! 9 addition to pap]1 :i*1 ( c\rse1 0 int5d$ to be tempor>y1 head-l9+s ( sate5 silk1 s>s5et1 & o!r simil> mat]ials1 gradually began to be us$4 ,!y 7 made ) a draw cord at ! edge int5d$ to fall into ! top ( ! cr[n1 :]e a 8tip0 ( ! same mat]ial 0 already 9 place4 ,! l9+ hav+ be5 sewn1 z x 71 upside-d[n to ! head entry inside ! cr[n1 0 turn$ ov] ! /it*es until ! drawn cord edge met ! tip2 ?is edge 0 !n sewn to ! circumf]5ce ( ! cr[n1 ! draw-cord 0 tight5$ to make ! l9+ sit exact to ! oval1 & ?is op]ation 0 complete4 ,b at t "t & until ab\t #aijj e hat 0 wir$ at its edge ) a silk or cotton mixture cov]$ wire4 ,?is 0 made especially = ! mill9]y trade1 & consi/$ ( a f9e iron wire1 ( :i* x 0 necess>y to h ! 8temp]0 ev5 & ductile1 s t :5 once b5t !re w\ld be no resili5ce1 or 8spr++10 z x 0 kn[n to /raw work]s4 ,p>allel to & all r\nd ! wire1 :i* ?us =m$ a core1 7 v>y+ numb]s1 accord+ to ! ?ickness ultimately requir$1 ( /r&s ( cotton4 ,ar\nd ?is 0 twi/$ ! silk fibres1 :i* at ! same "t kept all 9 position1 & made a glossy ext]ior to ! wire4 ,9 "s qualities ! silk laid s ?ickly z to %[ no break1 :ile o!rs accord+ to value1 %[$ v>y+ spaces betwe5 ! silk spirals2 o!rs ( ! *eape/ qualities 7 entirely ( cotton inside & outside4 ,! advantage ( ?is cu%ion-l pad ar\nd ! wire 0 t /it*es c\ld be tak5 ?r\gh x1 & if affix$ to ! hat or bonnet ) a 8slip-/it*10 no trace ( ! /it*+ c\ld be se54 ,! ladies' hat trade also uses ano!r v>iety ( wire kn[n z 8m9iature40 ,?is is wire ( simil> gauge to ! 8silk10 b x has no padd+1 & consi/s solely ( ! metal & a silk or cotton y>n cov]+4 ,9 putt+ ?is into or on any hat1 x is1 ( c\rse1 necess>y to sew ov] & ov] z ! clos5ess ( ! cov] does n p]mit ( any ne$le p5etration4 ,9 "s k9ds ( hats ( :i* ! brims are requir$ h>d & /raight edg$1 /eel wires ( wat* spr+-l temp] are us$1 & 9 o!rs /r5g!n+ & %ap+ are assi/$ by /r&s ( cane1 cut into r\nd /rips1 ( diff]5t gauges = v>i\s k9ds ( "w4 ,:5 ! wir+ ( hats = female we> became univ]sal1 ma*9]y 0 introduc$ to put ! wires at ! edges ( ! brims1 b ?is 0 done only to hats ( ! l[] grades1 because ! /it* 0 v visible4 ,m5tion has be5 made ( ! tab or ticket atta*$ to ! hat by ! 8f9i%]40 ,?is is prim>ily1 9 fact absolutely1 = purposes ( ref]5ce2 ! %ape numb]1 accord+ to ! manufactur]'s regi/ry1 is writt5 on x be=e dispat*1 toge!r ) any o!r special m>k+s requir$ by ! pur*as]1 b almo/ e :olesale di/ribut+ h\se 9 ,p>is1 ,london1 ,new ,york1 etc41 etc41 has "s di/9ctive ticket4 ,?is g5]ally be>s a trade m>k1 cre/1 or o!r sign peculi> to ! h\se 9 "q1 & may be ( any col\r2 ev5 black1 ) gold or silv] pr9t+1 has be5 us$1 & z !y v>y 9 m>ks & col\rs1 s !y v>y 9 size1 f1 say1 #c_/d 94 wide & #b 94 long1 to ev5 #b 94 wide to #d 94 long4 ,_! %apes are v num]\s1 rhomboids ellipses1 circles1 p5tagons1 conic sections1 p>allelograms1 half-moons1 />s1 & all o!r geometric-l =ms may be f\nd 9 ticket %apes1 b ! major "p ( ^? us$ p>take ( a 8sweep0 t has "s con=mity ) ! outl9e ( ! hat or bonnet4 ,g5]ally speak+1 trimm+ a lady's hat is ! special prov9ce ( ! mill9]1 & 9 ?is case1 ( c\rse1 hats are n conf9$ to ^? made ( /raw or plait1 &1 9 fact1 ?is is an indu/ry ( its own1 & is1 !re=e outside ! scope ( ! mak+ ( a /raw hat4 ,b = _m ye>s bo? ladies & g5tlem5 h worn :at h be5 at diff]5t epo*s call$ 8sailors0 or 8boat]s40 ,! mak+ ( ^! hats = m5 has ne>ly always be5 accompani$ by ! trimm+2 & :51 ab\t #ahhj1 wom5 comm5c$ to we> 8sailors10 _m ( !m 7 dispat*$ f ! ,/4 ,albans factories ) "s trimm+4 ,ab\t #ahij ! mak]s ( ladies' %ap$ hats ( simple =m began to add "s little adornm5t to !m1 & ^! 7 designat$ z 8semi-trimm$40 ,x is1 !re=e1 q inside ! hi/ory ( ! /raw hat to include "s acc\nt ( m5's boat]s1 ladies' sailors1 & 8semi-trimm$0 or ready-to-we> hats4 ,! fir/ /raw hats to be trimm$ by ! manufactur] 7 m5's boat]s4 ,_! trimm+ has n v mat]ially alt]$ f ! fir/ output up to ! pres5t "t4 ,!re 0 a ribbon b& & b[ at left h& side on ! outside ( ! cr[n1 & !re 0 also "s head l9+4 ,anyone conv]sant ) ! boat] ( to-day w recognize t ^! sali5t features are /ill ma9ta9$1 ! only diff]5ces f "t to "t be+ 9 _! nature & detail4 ,= ! head l9+s1 lea!r1 flannel1 cotton1 imitation lea!r1 sat91 & v>i\s o!r articles suitable = com=t to ! head & moi/ure absorption h be5 & are /ill us$4 ,! mo/ mat]ial *ange has be5 effect$ 9 ! imitation lea!rs1 :i* h n[ be5 br\ght up to su* a high /&>d ( excell5ce f :at "o might almo/ t]m 8! l[e/ dep?s10 t !y are v =midable competitors ( ! real article4 ,at ! same "t !y d n q comp>e ) good class lea!rs1 :i* are /ill always us$ = ! be/ hats4 ,:]e boat]s are l9$ ) flannel1 cotton or sat91 !y are g5]ally made 9 ! =m ( a ?9 pad1 & = c]ta9 m>kets are mu* e/eem$4 ,! o!r "p ( ! int]ior ( a boat] is sometimes left )\t any o!r adornm5t1 b g5]ally ! sides are decorat$ ) a l9+ ( :ite op5 "w net1 & ! top is cov]$ by a tip ( silk1 sat91 sate51 or cotton1 :i* g5]ally has ! c5tre pr9t$ ) ! retail]'s "n & address4 ,= o!r m>kets ! side cr[ns inside are cov]$ ) mat]ials simil> to ! tips1 9 all k9ds ( col\rs1 & arrang$ 9 bo? pla9 & fanciful mann]s4 ,! exact fitt+ ( ^! head l9+s1 or 8sweatb&s10 z "s t]m !m1 is an op]ation ne$+ skill1 & ! "w has be5 r5d]$ m easy by ! inv5tion ( ,mr4 ,bra*]1 ( ,/ockport4 ,?is1 n[ kn[n ?r\gh\t ! _w z 8,bra*]+0 7pron\nc$ ,bra%]+7 consi/s ( a small /rip ( mat]ial ar\nd a f9e /r& ( cane or o!r mat]ial1 :i* is sewn by a special /it* ma*9e to ! l9+ or lea!r1 mak+ at ! same "t a neat1 unte>able edge & a conv5i5t means = atta*m5t to ! hat4 ,f "t to "t v>i\s inv5tions h be5 made = ! v5tilation ( boat]s1 ^! g5]ally consi/+ ( "s op5 "w /raw be+ us$ at ! base ( ! cr[n in/ead ( ! ne>ly imp]meable ru/ic4 ,?is1 :5 cov]$ ) a ?9 b& ( ribbon1 is n visible f ! outside1 & af=ds "s fair degree ( air passage4 ,o!r me?ods h be5 adopt$ by hav+ a punctur$ edge to ! sweat b&1 :i* p]mitt$ air to freely circulate close to & all ar\nd ! head ( ! we>]4 ,to increase ! resili5cy ( ! lea!r or imitation lea!r l9+1 pat5ts h be5 tak5 out = pneumatic surr\nds1 =m+ an air cu%ion all r\nd ! hat1 :i* incid5tally all[s 9 ! easie/ mann] = any discrepancies1 & !y are v common1 9 ! cont\r ( ! we>]'s skull4 ,! v>i\s devices = increas$ com=t & utility 9 boat] l9+s are v num]\s1 & display great +5uity4 ,! 8,aut(orm0 ,! 8,bon-,ton-,ivy0 & ! 8,eesola0 pads1 ea* ( !m specialities ( v>i\s mak]s ( boat] sweatb&s1 pres5t diff]+ features creat+ resili5cy ar\nd ! head ( ! we>]4 ,^! are produc$ by means ( s(t mat]ial ins]tions "u ! lea!r or o!r l9+1 or ( cellul> impressions made 9 ! lea!r1 or ( a cont9u\s roll all ar\nd ! head fitt+ "p1 or ev5 ( ! ins]tion ( a pneumatic tube1 all creat+ a cu%ion l addition to ! flatness ( ! l9+ mat]ial4 ,ea* has its peculi> m]its1 & = c]ta9 purposes are p]fect 9 _! utility4 ,"s are v little m co/ly ?an ! pla9 lea!r1 b o!rs f ! extra mat]ial & "w involv$ are naturally m exp5sive1 b ! ef=ts ( _! manufactur]s to raise ! /&>ds ( quality & ( effici5t com=t are su* z to des]ve special comm5dation4 ,! mo/ rec5t developm5t = ensur+ ! com=table we> ( ! h>de/ boat] is t ( an ,am]ican inv5tor4 ,al?\gh ! mak+ ( /raw hats f plait has be5 an e/abli%$ indu/ry 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates = at lea/ half a c5tury1 & ! amaz+ increase ( ! trade has be5 ph5om5al1 yet up to ! pres5t ! "n ( an ,am]ican has n be5 writt5 v prom95tly on ! pages ( /raw trade indu/ry4 ,x is true t ! fir/ ma*9e to sew plait 0 ! product ( an ,am]ican firm1 b1 x 0 n really successful until x _h be5 alt]$ & adapt$ by a ,luton eng9e]2 x is also true t ,mr4 ,bodswor?1 an ,am]ican1 introduc$ a /raw sew+ ma*9e1 b z previ\sly /at$1 ?is 0 n a /rik+ success1 & al?\gh at ! pres5t "t ! pr9cipal ma*9e 9 ! trade is made by an ,am]ican firm1 x is ! result ( a ,briton's inv5tion4 ,&1 !re=e1 x is ) pleasure t 9 ?is record ( ! trade a real inv5tion1 :i* promises to be ( ! highe/ value to ! boat] trade1 c be laid to ! cr$it ( a citiz5 ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,mr4 ,h]b]t ,l4 ,moses1 ( ,baltimore1 has pat5t$ a device = atta*m5t j inside ! head entry ( a boat] :i* consi/s ( a float+1 flexible b&1 held 9 position ab\t #a_/h ( an in* f ! hat by a s]ies ( /it*es at ab\t half an in* int]vals all r\nd ! cr[n4 ,! pr9ciple is t ! /it*es ( cotton take ! place ( ! spokes ( a :eel runn+ inside ano!r :eel1 :]e a ?ru/ 9 "o "p is comp5sat$ = by a relaxation ( ! o!r p>ts4 ,ov] ?is is sewn ! lea!r sweat-b&1 or head l9+ ( any o!r nature1 atta*$ to ! hat 9 ! usual mann]4 ,! necess>y ma*9]y = ! ins]tion ( ?is flexible con=mateur1 = t is actually :at x am\nts to1 is provid$ by means ( me*anical atta*m5ts to any suitable sew+ ma*9e4 ,^! atta*m5ts =m ! subject ( ano!r pat5t by ! same inv5tor1 :o has assign$ 8 rights to ,messrs4 ,m4 ,s4 ,levy ,sons1 ( ,baltimore1 ,u4,s4,a4 ,! peculi> features ( ?is pat5t are1 fir/1 ! ease ( fit convey$ to ! we>] ( ! hat1 &1 second1 ! great yield giv5 by ! device obviates to ! utmo/ ext5t ! ne$ = small int]m$iate sizes ( ! hats1 = fitt+ ! _m-%ap$ heads ( cu/om]s4 ,co-eval ) ! boat]1 & p]haps ev5 a little e>li]1 0 ! 8,galatea0 or 8,jack ,t>0 = boys4 ,?is hat 0 f\nd$ on ! %ape ( ! 8,s9nett0 ru/ic hat worn by sailors 9 ! ,navy = s _m ye>s4 ,! model 0 9 use at ! end ( ! eighte5? c5tury 7z pictures ( ,"l ,nelson's sea fights cle>ly demon/rate7 made bo? 9 /raw & 9 t>paul94 ,x 0 quickly adopt$ = boy's we>1 & = _m ye>s =m$ _! summ] hat4 ,no boy c\ld g to ! seaside )\t "o4 ,a pa9t+1 execut$ ab\t #ahej1 illu/rative ( ,que5 ,victoria1 ,pr9ce ,alb]t1 ) ! !n ,pr9ce ( ,wales1 aft]w>d ,k+ ,edw>d ,,vii1 %[s ! ,pr9ce we>+ a /raw ,galatea1 & any obs]v] ( ! pictures ( t "t 9 ! v>i\s p]iodicals su* z ,! ,illu/rat$ ,london ,news & ,pun*1 _c fail to notice h[ popul> ?is 8,jack ,t>0 /yle 0 among ! y\?ful males4 ,! o!r dep>tm5t ( trimm+ 9 ! /raw trade1 t ( ! 8semi-trimm$0 hats = ladies1 is ( comp>atively rec5t orig9 comp>$ ) ! boat]1 = at mo/ x c claim an exi/5ce ( only ?irty to ?irty-five ye>s1 b ! trade has n[ gr[n to su* l>ge dim5sions t any acc\nt ( ! /raw hat w\ld be incomplete )\t x4 ,x comm5c$1 z mo/ ?+s d1 9 ! trade t 0 done = "s ye>s 9 sailors = ladies4 ,^? 9 ! ma9 7 on ! same l9es z ^? = m51 t is !y />t$ ) squ>e edge cr[ns1 upright sides at "r angle to a p]fectly flat brim4 ,developm5ts ( a fanciful nature 9 ! brim =mation 9 ! direction ( :at is kn[n z a 8,breton0 sailor1 ( :i* ! *>act]i/ic is a slightly turn$ up edge1 7 ! fir/ to be made1 & subsequ5tly cr[ns ( s(t] outl9e ) ov]hang+ tops atta9$ = "s "t a great %>e ( fa%ionable fav\r4 ,b to-day1 ) ! exception ( /raw sailors = girls & "y ladies at s*ool1 !re is v little dem& = hats ( ?is description4 ,b ! trimm+1 :i* 0 ne>ly a necessity ( ^! hats1 _h e/abli%$1 9 _m factories1 dep>tm5ts :i* on ! decl9e ( _! sale1 requir$ fre% op5+s1 & attempts 7 made on 8,alp9e0 models1 !n 9 great vogue = ladies1 :i* prov$ v successful4 ,?is :ett$ ! appetite ( manufactur]s1 & all k9ds ( 8ready to we>0 hats = sports 7 spe$ily on ! m>ket1 "o ?+ l$ to ano!r1 & n[ all mann] ( %apes1 toques1 m$ium size1 & picture hats are be+ trimm$ 9 a mann] t f its dep>ture f ! e>ly extreme simplicity1 seems to tr5* consid]ably ^u :at has always be5 consid]$ ! prop] doma9 ( ! mill9]4 ,telephone3 ,,luton #caa ,telegrams3 ,,+ab1 ,,luton ,c4 ,,bagni ,r4 ,g4 ,,squires ,c4 ,,bagni ,,co4 ,,codes3 ,s*(ield's ,m>coni's ,a4,b4,c4 ,private ,import]s & ,export]s ( ,,italian1 ,,*9ese ,,japanese ,,/raw ,,plaits ,,= ,,hat ,,manufacture #cf ,guild=d ,/reet ,,luton ,,b$s4 ,,index ,arab hats1 #e ,argos1 #c ,au/91 ,t4 ,g41 #ab ,bamboo1 #ah ,ba/1 #c1 #ce ,black ,=e/1 claims (1 #f ,blea*+1 hi/ory1 #fj ---- me?ods1 #fj1 #fb1 #fc ,block+ by h&1 hi/ory1 #ic ---- tools1 #ic1 #id1 #ih ---- me?ods1 #if1 #ajd ---- by ma*9e1 hi/ory1 #ajj ---- ---- v>i\s ma*9es1 #aja1 #ajb1 #ajf1 #ajh ,blockmak+1 hi/ory1 #ff ---- me?od1 #fg ---- woods us$1 #fi ---- ( pla/]1 #fi ,bonnet1 #e ,briti% /raw plaits1 #aa1 #ae1 #ah ---- ---- hats1 #f1 #i ,ces>e ,cantu1 #i ,*9ese plaits1 #ai ,compo1 /iff5+1 #ia ,cotton plaits1 #ah ,coryat's crudities1 #aj ,dye+1 hi/ory1 #eb ---- me?ods1 #ec1 #eg1 #eh ---- plant1 #ed ,enamell+ split1 #ia ,etruscans & ,etruria1 #c ,fa/olfe1 ,sir ,john1 #f ,fiesole1 wov5 plait1 #cj ,f9i%+1 #aaa ,franks1 !1 #c ,g]>d1 #c ,greeks1 !1 #c ,hemp = plaits1 #ah1 #cc ,h]a1 hat (1 #c ,hood hats1 prep>ation1 #cg ---- ----1 me?od ( mak+1 #ch ---- ----1 ,bankok1 #db ---- ----1 ,b[51 #da ---- ----1 ,brazilian1 #db-dd ---- ----1 *ip1 #db ---- ----1 ,curaoa1 #da ---- ----1 hemp1 #db ---- ----1 ,h9oki1 #da ---- ----1 ,java1 #da ---- ----1 ,leghorn1 #ad1 #ga ---- ----1 ,manila1 #db ---- ----1 ,panama1 #cf ---- ----1 pap]1 #db ---- ----1 raffia1 #dc ---- ----1 ru%1 #db ---- ----1 ,y$da1 #dc ,horsehair plaits1 #ah ,italian plaits1 #aj1 #ad ,japanese plaits1 #ai ,kausia1 #b ,la ,croix1 #c 8,la dame au *apeau de ,poil10 #h ,lea!rs = l9+1 #aai ,leghorn1 #ac ,l9+ hats1 #aae ,ma*9es1 sew+1 #ba1 #bb1 #bc ----1 block+1 #bd ----1 plait+1 #di ,ma*9es1 mill+1 #hb ,m>y1 ,que5 ( ,scots1 #aj ,m]cury1 hat (1 #c ,milan or ,p$ale1 #ai ,oil+ *ip hats1 #aab ,oldmixon1 #aa ,pausanias1 #c ,p5elope1 hat (1 #d ,pepys1 #g ,petasus1 #b ,plaits1 bamboo1 #ah ----1 ba/1 #ce ----1 cotton1 #ah ----1 hemp1 #ah ----1 horsehair1 #ah ----1 raffia1 #ah ----1 ru%1 #ce ----1 rye /raw1 #g1 #ad ----1 silk1 #ah ----1 s9net1 #ce1 #aab ----1 ,tuscan1 #ad ----1 :eat /raw1 #ad ----1 wood %av+s1 #ah ----1 y$da1 #ce ,plaitt]s1 #bh1 #bi ,plaitt+ c5tres3 ,belgium1 #cj ,*9a1 #ai ,dun/able1 #ae ,essex1 #ae ,hemel ,hemp/ead1 #ae ,japan1 #ai ,panama1 #cf ,ripon 7,yorks71 #ae ,saxony1 #cc ,switz]l&1 #ah ---- ma*9es1 #di ---- me?ods1 #bg1 #cj1 #cb1 #de ,poetical allusions3 ,b5 ,jonson1 #g ,gay1 #i ,%akespe>e1 #g ,sp5s]1 #f ,?ynne1 #f ,virgil1 #e ,poli%+1 #aab ,pompeii1 #d ,praxiteles1 #c ,prep>ation ( /raws1 #be ---- ( *ip1 #cc ,romans1 ! e>ly1 #c ,rub5s1 ,pet] ,paul1 #h ,rye /raw1 #g1 #ad ,semi-trimm$ hats1 #abb ,sew+1 h& me?od1 #gb1 #gf ----1 ma*9e me?od1 #gc1 #ha ---- ma*9es1 #ba1 #bb1 #bc1 #gc ,signa1 #aj ,sp>t]ie1 #ea ,speckl$ plaits1 #eg ,splitt+ ( /raws1 #bg ,/ephanos1 #c ,/iff5+1 hi/ory1 #hd ---- mat]ials1 #he1 #hh1 #ij ---- me?od1 #hf1 #hh1 #ij ,/raw1 #c ---- pipes1 #af ---- spl9ts1 #af ---- splitt]s1 #ag ,swiss plaits1 #ah ,tagal1 #cd ,tansley1 #ag ,tgal1 #cd ,ticket+1 #aag ,tipp]s1 #gj ,toml9son1 #ac ,trimm+1 #aah ,tuscan plait1 #ad ,tutulus1 #d ,twi/ plait1 #ai ,vatican1 #c ,virgil1 pa/orals1 #e ,wall]1 ,john1 #aa ,wat]pro(+1 #aad ,wir+1 #aae ,pr9t$ 9 ,ba?1 ,engl&1 by ,sir ,isaac ,pitman ,sons1 ,ltd4 & ,a ,b>ry ,hat ,,gu>ante$ surpasses all ,! production ( ,,francois ,,b>ry1 #hc ,,great ,,portl& ,,/41 ,,london1 ,w4#a ,,cable ,,address3 ,,imm$iate1 ,,luton ,,telephone ,,no4 #bj ,,luton ,,wel* ,,sons1 ,ltd4 ,,luton ,,b$s1 ,,engl& ,,import]s ,,& ,,export]s ,,( ,,all ,,k9ds ,,( ,,japanese1 ,,*9ese1 ,,italian & ,,suisse ,,plaits ,= ,,hat ,,manufacture ,,blea*+ ,a ,,speciality ,codes3 ,,abc #d? #e? ,editions ,,abc #e? ,improv$ ,,lieb]s ,,lieb]s ,,improv$ ,codes3 ,we/]n ,union ,b5tley's ,m>coni ,vol4 ,i ,,private ,,manufactur]s ,,( ,,ladies'1 ,,maids' & ,,*ildr5',s ,,hats ,,trimm$ ,,& ,,untrimm$ ,,all5 ,,son1 ,,ltd4 ,,e/abli%$ #ahib ',,phone #abd ,,luton #ei-fa ,,bute ,,/reet ,,luton1 ,,b$s ,,engl& ,telegrams3 ,,k]%aw1 ,,luton ,telephone ,nos43 ,,luton1 #gdb1 #gdc 7,bran* ,ex*ange74 ,j4 ,c4 ,k]%aw ,co4 ,limit$ ,ladies' & ,m5's ,/raw & ,felt ,hat ,manufactur]s & ,plait ,m]*ants ,codes3 ,a4,b4,c4 #e,,? ,,edition4 ,,b5tleys4 ,,m>coni4 ,george ,/reet1 ,luton ,use ,willcox ,gibbs 8,,h&/it*0 = mak+ ! ,conceal$ ,/it* s ess5tial 9 all fir/-class "w4 ,,unapproa*$ ,,on ,,any ,,plait4 ,all be/ grade hats are made ) ! _w-fam$ 8,h&/it*40 ,! ,w4 ,g4 ,,visible ,,/it* ,/raw ,hat ,ma*9es are ,fa/-runn+1 ,economical1 ,adaptable & ,durable4 99 99 99 99 99 ,bo? types ( ma*9es are ext5sively us$ 9 all plait-sew+ c5tres ?r\gh\t ! _w4 ,willcox ,gibbs ,sew+ ,ma*9e ,co41 ,ltd4 ,*ief ,(fice3 #bj ,=e ,/reet1 ,london1 ,e4,c4#b4 ,luton ,(fice3 ,silv] ,/reet4 ,illu/ration ,,pat5t ,no4 #ahbjce ,,=eign ,,pat5ts ,,p5d+ ,,br[n ,,gre5 ,ltd4 99 99 99 99 99 ,hatt]s' ,ma*9]y ,manufactur]s 99 99 99 99 99 ,w9dsor ,/reet1 ,ca/le ,/reet ,s\? ,road ,,luton1 ,,b$s1 ,,engl& ,,e/abli%$ #ahdj 7,,! ,,olde/ ,,e/abli%$ ,,h\se ,,9 ,,! ,,trade7 ,telephone #ajd ,luton4 ,telegrams 8,gem ,luton40 --,?is is our late/ patt]n ,,hat ,,block+ ,,ma*9e ,,& ,,has ,,be5 ,,design$ ,,to ,,supply ,a ,,long-,,felt ,,ne$1 ,,viz4-- ,a ,,ma*9e ,,9 ,,:i* ,,! ,,op]ator ,,has ,,complete ,,visibility ,,( ,,8 ,,"w1 ,,:]e ,,! ,,block+ ,,op]ation ,,is ,,cont9u\s1 ,,:]e ,,heavy ,,lift+ ,,is ,,elim9at$1 ,,:]e ,,sup]flu\s ,,/eam ,,is ,,elim9at$1 ,,:]e ,,y ,,get ,a ,,mu* ,,great] ,,output1 ,,:]e ,,two ,,*amb]s ,,are ,,work+ ,,cont9ually ,,in/ead ,,( ,,"o1 ,,:]e ,,block+ ,,is ,,almo/ ,,made ,,foolpro(4 ,,all ,,ca/+s ,,are ,,( ,,! ,,be/ ,,mat]ial3 ,,heavy ,,:]e ,,requir$ ,,& ,,neat ,,9 ,,appe>ance ,,& ,,are ,,/&>diz$ ,,?r\gh\t4 ,,?is ,,ma*9e ,,has ,,be5 ,,te/$ ,,"u ,,work+ ,,conditions ,,) ,,e ,,success ,,& ,,we ,,claim ,,x ,,to ,,be ,,! ,,mo/ ,,p]fect ,,ma*9e ,,9 ,,use4 ,,all ,,ma*9es ,,are ,,te/$ ,,to ,,heavy ,,hydraulic ,,pressure ,,be=e ,,leav+ ,,our ,,works ,,& ,a ,,c]tificate ,,( ,,te/ ,,suppli$ ,,if ,,desir$4 ,,practical ,,demon/rations ,,c ,,be ,,arrang$ ,,at ,,our ,,works ,,at ,,any ,,"t4 ,,made ,,= ,,ei!r ,,h& ,,or ,,p[]4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,br[n ,,gre5 ,ltd4 99 99 99 99 99 ,hatt]s' ,ma*9]y ,manufactur]s 99 99 99 99 99 ,w9dsor ,/reet1 ,ca/le ,/reet ,s\? ,road ,,luton1 ,,b$s1 ,,engl& ,,e/abli%$ #ahdj 7,,! ,,olde/ ,,e/abli%$ ,,h\se ,,9 ,,! ,,trade7 ,telephone #ajd ,luton4 ,telegrams 8,gem ,luton40 ,telegraphic ,address3 8,,honorfides1 ,,luton0 ,telephone ,nos4 #ajah & #ajai 7,hats7 #ejj 7,plaits7 ,codes3 ,a ,b ,c 7#d? & #e? ,editions7 & ,b5tley's ,a4 ,,hucklesby ,co4 ,,limit$ ,plait ,m]*ants ,hat ,manufactur]s 99 99 99 99 99 ,,late/ ,,/yles 9 ,,hats ,,( ,,all ,,k9ds ,/raws1 ,felts1 ,velvets1 ,panamas1 etc4 ,ag5ts & ,import]s ( ,/raw ,plaits & ,braids ,,ribbons1 ,,gelat9es1 ,,cottons1 ,,cane1 ,,pap]1 ,,rubb] ,,goods1 & all ,,hat ,,mak]s' ,,requisites ,,/ock$ 99 99 99 99 99 ,w>eh\ses & ,%[rooms3 #df #dh ,george ,/41 & #a1 #b #c ,bond ,/4 ,factories3 ,upp] ,george ,/reet ,,= ,,ladies' ,,goods ,john ,/reet ,,= ,,m5',s ,,& ,,boys' ,,hats ,,luton ,a ,,li/ ,,( ,,books ,,publi%$ ,,by ,sir ,isaac ,pitman ,sons1 ,ltd4 7,incorporat+ ,,:ittak] ,,co47 ,,p>k] ,,/reet1 ,,k+sway1 ,,london1 ,w4,c4#b ,! prices giv5 apply only to ! ,briti% ,isles1 & are subject to alt]ation )\t notice4 99 99 99 99 99 ,a complete ,catalogue giv+ full details ( ! foll[+ books w be s5t po/ free on application4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,all ,,prices ,,are ,,net4 s4 d4 ,,accumulators1 ,,managem5t ,,(4 ,sir ,d4 ,salomons #g #f ,,a](oils ,,& ,,resi/ance ,,( ,,a]odynamic ,,bodies1 ,,prop]ties ,,(4 ,a4 ,w4 ,judge #ah #j ,,a]onautical ,,design ,,& ,,con/ruction1 ,,elem5t>y ,,pr9ciples ,,(4 ,a4 ,w4 ,judge #g #h ,,a]onautics1 ,,elem5t>y4 ,a4 ,p4 ,?ur/on #h #f ,,a]onautical ,,eng9e]+1 ,,text-,,book ,,(4 ,a4 ,klem9 #ae #j ,,a]oplanes1 ,,design ,,(4 ,a4 ,w4 ,judge #ad #j ,,a]oplane ,,/ructural ,,design4 ,t4 ,h4 ,jones & ,j4 ,d4 ,fri] #ba #j ,,a]oplanes ,,& ,,air%ips4 ,w4 ,e4 ,dommett #a #i ,,aircraft ,,& ,,automobile ,,mat]ials--,,f]r\s4 ,a4 ,w4 ,judge #be #j ,,aircraft ,,& ,,automobile ,,mat]ials--,,non-,,f]r\s ,,& ,,organic4 ,a4 ,w4 ,judge #be #j ,,aircraft1 ,,diction>y ,,(4 ,w4 ,e4 ,dommett #b #j ,,alignm5t ,,*>ts4 ,e4 ,s4 ,&rews #b #j ,,alt]nat+ ,,curr5t ,,ma*9]y1 ,,design ,,(4 ,j4 ,r4 ,b>r & ,r4 ,d4 ,ar*ibald #cj #j ,,alt]nat+ ,,curr5t ,,ma*9]y1 ,,pap]s ,,on ,,! ,,design ,,(4 ,c4 ,c4 ,hawk9s1 ,s4 ,p4 ,smi? & ,s4 ,neville #ba #j ,,alt]nat+-,,curr5t ,,"w4 ,w4 ,p]r5 ,maycock #aj #f ,,ar*itectural ,,hygi5e4 ,b4 ,f4 & ,h4 ,p4 ,flet*] #aj #f ,,ari?metic ,,( ,,alt]nat+ ,,curr5ts4 ,e4 ,h4 ,crapp] #d #f ,,ari?metic ,,( ,,electrical ,,eng9e]+4 ,:ittak]'s #c #f ,,ari?metic ,,( ,,telegraphy ,,& ,,telephony4 ,t4 ,e4 ,h]b]t & ,r4 ,g4 de ,w>dt #e #j ,,armature ,,con/ruction4 ,h4 ,m4 ,hob>t & ,a4 ,g4 ,ellis #be #j ,,artificial ,,silk ,,& ,,its ,,manufacture4 ,j4 ,foltz]4 ,translat$ by ,s4 ,woodh\se #ba #j ,,a/ronom]s1 ,,great4 ,sir ,r4 ,ball #g #f ,,a/ronomy ,,= ,,ev]ybody4 ,pr(4 ,s4 ,newcombe #g #f ,,a/ronomy ,,= ,,g5]al ,,read]s4 ,g4 ,f4 ,*amb]s #d #j ,,automobile ,,& ,,aircraft ,,eng9es4 ,a4 ,w4 ,judge #cj #j ,,automobile ,,ignition ,,& ,,valve ,,tim+1 ,,/>t+ ,,& ,,light+4 ,j4 ,b4 ,ra?bun #h #j ,,baud,t ,,pr9t+ ,,telegraph ,,sy/em4 ,h4 ,w4 ,p5dry #f #j ,,blue ,,pr9t+ ,,& ,,mod]n ,,plan ,,copy+4 ,b4 ,j4 ,hall #f #j ,,brew+ ,,& ,,malt+4 ,j4 ,ross ,mack5zie #h #f ,,cab9et ,,mak+1 ,,art ,,& ,,craft ,,(4 ,d4 ,d5n+ #g #f ,,calculus ,,= ,,eng9e]+ ,,/ud5ts4 ,j4 ,/oney #c #f ,,c>p5try ,,& ,,jo9]y4 ,b4 ,f4 & ,h4 ,p4 ,flet*] #aj #f ,,c]amic ,,indu/ries ,,pocket ,,book4 ,a4 ,b4 ,se>le #h #f ,,*emical ,,eng9e]+1 ,,introduction ,,to4 ,a4 ,f4 ,all5 #aj #f ,,*emi/ry1 ,a ,,fir/ ,,book ,,(4 ,a4 ,c\l?>d #d #f ,,coal ,,m9+1 ,,mod]n ,,practice ,,(4 ,k]r & ,burns4 ,"p #a1 #e_/-2 ,p>ts #b1 #c & #d1 ea* #f #j ,,col\r ,,9 ,,wov5 ,,design3 ,a ,,treatise ,,on ,,textile ,,col\r+4 ,r4 ,beaumont #ba #j ,,compress$ ,,air ,,p[]4 ,a4 ,w4 & ,z4 ,w4 ,daw #ba #j ,,cont9u\s-,,curr5t ,,dynamo ,,design1 ,,elem5t>y ,,pr9ciples ,,(4 ,h4 ,m4 ,hob>t #aj #f ,,cont9u\s ,,curr5t ,,motors ,,& ,,control ,,app>atus4 ,w4 ,p]r5 ,maycock #g #f ,,detail ,,design ,,( ,,m>9e ,,screw ,,propell]s4 ,d4 ,h4 ,jackson #f #j ,,direct ,,curr5t ,,electrical ,,eng9e]+4 ,j4 ,r4 ,b>r #ae #j ,,direct ,,curr5t ,,electrical ,,eng9e]+1 ,,! ,,elem5ts ,,(4 ,h4 ,f4 ,trewman & ,g4 ,e4 ,condiffe #g #f ,,div+ ,,manual ,,& ,,h&book ,,( ,,subm>9e ,,appliances4 ,r4 ,h4 ,davis #g #f ,,draw+ ,,& ,,design+4 ,c4 ,g4 ,lel& #c #f ,,draw+1 ,,manual ,,in/ruction4 ,s4 ,b>t] #d #j ,,dress1 ,,bl\se1 ,,& ,,co/ume ,,clo?s1 ,,design ,,& ,,fabric ,,manufacture ,,(4 ,r4 ,beaumont #db #j ,,dynamo1 ,,h[ ,,to ,,manage ,,!4 ,a4 ,r4 ,bottone #b #j ,,dynamo3 ,,its ,,!ory1 ,,design ,,& ,,manufacture1 ,,!4 ,c4 ,c4 ,hawk9s4 ,vol4 ,i #ba #j ,,electric ,,light ,,fitt+3 ,a ,,treatise ,,on ,,wir+ ,,= ,,light+1 ,,heat+1 ,c4 ,s4 ,c4 ,bat/one #f #j ,,electrical ,,in/rum5t ,,mak+ ,,= ,,amateurs4 ,s4 ,r4 ,bottone #f #j ,,electric ,,bells ,,& ,,all ,,ab\t ,,!m4 ,s4 ,r4 ,bottone #c #f ,,electric ,,circuit ,,!ory ,,& ,,calculations4 ,w4 ,p]r5 ,maycock #aj #f ,,electric ,,guides4 ,,hawk9s'4 #aj volumes1 ea* #e #j ,,electric ,,m9+ ,,ma*9]y4 ,s4 ,f4 ,walk] #ae #j ,,electric ,,motors ,,& ,,control ,,sy/ems4 ,a4 ,t4 ,dov] #ah #j ,,electric ,,motors--,,cont9u\s1 ,,polyphase ,,& ,,s+le-,,phase ,,motors4 ,h4 ,m4 ,hob>t ,,electric ,,motors1 ,a ,,small ,,book ,,on4 ,c4,c4 ,,& ,a4,c4 ,w4 ,p]r5 ,maycock #f #j ,,electric ,,light+ ,,& ,,p[] ,,di/ribution4 ,vol4 ,i4 ,w4 ,p]r5 ,maycock #aj #f ,,electric ,,light+ ,,& ,,p[] ,,di/ribution4 ,vol4 ,,ii4 ,w4 ,p]r5 ,maycock #aj #f ,,electric ,,light+ ,,9 ,,! ,,home4 ,l4 ,ga/] #f ,,electric ,,light+ ,,9 ,,factories4 ,l4 ,ga/] & ,j4 ,s4 ,d[ #f ,,electric ,,traction4 ,a4 ,t4 ,dov] #ba #j ,,electric ,,wir+1 ,,fitt+s1 ,,swit*es ,,& ,,lamps4 ,w4 ,p]r5 ,maycock #aj #f ,,electric ,,wir+ ,,diagrams4 ,w4 ,p]r5 ,maycock #e #j ,,electric ,,wir+ ,,tables4 ,w4 ,p]r5 ,maycock #e #j ,,electrical ,,eng9e]s' ,,pocket ,,book4 ,:ittak]'s #aj #f ,,electrical ,,in/rum5ts ,,9 ,,!ory ,,& ,,practice4 ,murdo* & ,os*wald #ab #f ,,electrical ,,ma*9es1 ,,practical ,,te/+ ,,(4 ,l4 ,oulton & ,n4 ,j4 ,wilson #f #j ,,electrical ,,transmission ,,( ,,photographs4 ,m4 ,j4 ,m>t9 #f #j ,,electricity ,,& ,,magnetism1 ,,fir/ ,,book ,,(4 ,w4 ,p]r5 ,maycock #f #j ,,electro ,,motors3 ,,h[ ,,made ,,& ,,h[ ,,us$4 ,s4 ,r4 ,bottone #d #f ,,electro-,,plat]s' ,,h&book4 ,g4 ,e4 ,bonney #e #j ,,electro-,,te*nics1 ,,elem5ts ,,(4 ,a4 ,p4 ,"y #g #f ,,eng9e] ,,draughtsm5',s ,,"w3 ,,h9ts ,,to ,,beg9n]s ,,9 ,,draw+ ,,(fices4 #b #f ,,eng9e]+ ,,sci5ce1 ,,prim] ,,(4 ,e4 ,s4 ,&rews4 ,"p #a1 #cs42 ,"p #b1 #bs4 #f;d42 ,complete #d #f ,,eng9e]+ ,,work%op ,,ex]cises4 ,e4 ,pull #c #f ,,eng9e]s' ,,& ,,erectors' ,,pocket ,,diction>y3 ,,engli%1 ,,g]man1 ,,dut*4 ,w4 ,h4 ,/e5beek #b #f ,,engli% ,,= ,,te*nical ,,/ud5ts4 ,f4 ,f4 ,pott]4 #b #j ,,exp]im5tal ,,ma!matics4 ,g4 ,r4 ,v9e ,book ,i1 ) ,answ]s #a #d ,book ,,ii1 ) ,answ]s #a #d ,,explosives1 ,,hi/orical ,,pap]s ,,on ,,mod]n4 ,g4 ,w4 ,mac,donald #i #j ,,explosives ,,indu/ry1 ,,rise ,,& ,,progress ,,( ,,! ,,briti%4 #ah #j ,,field ,,manual ,,( ,,survey ,,me?ods ,,& ,,op]ations4 ,a4 ,lovat ,higg9s #ba #j ,,field ,,"w ,,= ,,s*ools4 ,e4 ,h4 ,h>rison & ,c4 ,a4 ,hunt] #b #j ,,files ,,& ,,fil+4 ,fremont & ,taylor #ba #j ,,fitt+1 ,,pr9ciples ,,(4 ,j4 ,g4 ,horn] #g #f ,,five ,,figure ,,log>i?ms4 ,w4 ,e4 ,dommett #a #f ,,flax ,,culture ,,& ,,prep>ation4 ,f4 ,bradbury #aj #f ,,fuselage ,,design4 ,a4 ,w4 ,judge #c #j ,,gas1 ,,gasol5e ,,& ,,oil ,,eng9es4 ,j4 ,b4 ,ra?bun #h #j ,,gas ,,eng9e ,,tr\bles ,,& ,,in/allations4 ,j4 ,b4 ,ra?bun #h #j ,,gas ,,& ,,oil ,,eng9e ,,op]ation4 ,j4 ,okill #e #j ,,gas1 ,,oil1 ,,& ,,petrol ,,eng9es3 ,,includ+ ,,suction ,,gas ,,plant ,,& ,,humphrey ,,pumps4 ,a4 ,g>r>d #f #j ,,gas ,,supply ,,9 ,,pr9ciples ,,& ,,practice4 ,w4 ,h4 ,y4 ,webb] #d #j ,,geometry1 ,,! ,,elem5ts ,,( ,,practical ,,plane4 ,p4 ,w4 ,scott #e #j ,,geology1 ,,elem5t>y4 ,a4 ,j4 ,jukes-,br[ne #c #j ,,g]man ,,gramm> ,,= ,,sci5ce ,,/ud5ts4 ,w4 ,a4 ,osborne #c #j ,,graphic ,,/atics1 ,,elem5t>y4 ,j4 ,t4 ,wight #e #j ,,h&rail+ ,,= ,,geometrical ,,/aircases4 ,w4 ,a4 ,scott #b #f ,,heat1 ,,light ,,& ,,s\nd4 ,j4 ,r4 ,a%wor? #b #f ,,high ,,heav5s1 ,,9 ,,!4 ,sir ,r4 ,ball #aj #f ,,hosi]y ,,manufacture4 ,w4 ,davis #i #j ,,hydraulic ,,motors ,,& ,,turb9es4 ,g4 ,r4 ,bodm] #ae #j ,,illum9ants ,,& ,,illum9at+ ,,eng9e]+1 ,,mod]n4 ,d[ & ,ga/] #be #j ,,indicator ,,h&book4 ,c4 ,n4 ,pickwor? #g #f ,,induction ,,coils4 ,g4 ,e4 ,bonney #f #j ,,induction ,,coil1 ,,!ory ,,( ,,!4 ,e4 ,taylor-,jones #ab #f ,,insulation ,,( ,,electric ,,ma*9es4 ,h4 ,w4 ,turn] & ,h4 ,m4 ,hob>t #ba #j ,,ionic ,,valve1 ,,guide ,,to ,,/udy ,,( ,,!4 ,w4 ,d4 ,ow5 #b #f ,,ironf\nd+ ,,practical4 ,j4 ,g4 ,horn] #aj #j ,,lea!r ,,"w4 ,c4 ,g4 ,lel& #e #j ,,lektrik ,,light+ ,,connections4 ,w4 ,p]r5 ,maycock #a #j ,,l5s ,,"w ,,= ,,amateurs4 ,h4 ,or=d #c #f ,,lightn+ ,,conductors ,,& ,,lightn+ ,,gu>ds4 ,sir ,o4 ,lodge #ae #j ,,log>i?ms ,,= ,,beg9n]s4 ,c4 ,n4 ,pickwor? #a #f ,,ma*9e ,,draw+1 ,,prep>atory ,,c\rse ,,to4 ,p4 ,w4 ,scott #b #j ,,magnetism ,,& ,,electricity1 ,,an ,,introductory ,,c\rse ,,( ,,practical4 ,j4 ,r4 ,a%wor? #c #j ,,magneto ,,& ,,electric ,,ignition4 ,w4 ,hibb]t #c #f ,,manur+ ,,l&1 ,,tables ,,= ,,measur+ ,,&4 ,j4 ,cully] #c #j ,,m>9e ,,eng9e]s1 ,,practical ,,advice =4 ,c4 ,w4 ,rob]ts #e #j ,,ma!matical ,,tables4 ,w4 ,e4 ,dommett #d #f ,,ma!matics1 ,,m9+ 7,,prelim9>y74 ,g4 ,w4 ,/r+fell[ #a #f ,) ,answ]s ,d4 #b #j ,,me*anical ,,eng9e]+ ,,detail ,,tables4 ,j4 ,p4 ,ross #g #f ,,me*anical ,,eng9e]s' ,,pocket ,,book4 ,:ittak]'s #ab #f ,,me*anical ,,tables4 ,j4 ,fod5 #b #j ,,me*anics' ,,& ,,draughtsm5',s ,,pocket ,,book4 ,w4 ,e4 ,dommett #b #f ,,metal ,,turn+4 ,j4 ,g4 ,horn] #d #j ,,metal ,,"w--,,rep\ss4 ,c4 ,g4 ,lel& #e #j ,,metal ,,"w1 ,,tea*]',s ,,h&book4 ,j4 ,s4 ,mill] #d #j ,,metric ,,& ,,briti% ,,sy/ems ,,( ,,weights ,,& ,,measures4 ,f4 ,m4 ,p]k9 #c #f ,,metric ,,conv]sion ,,tables4 ,w4 ,e4 ,dommett #b #f ,,mill+1 ,,mod]n4 ,e4 ,pull #i #j ,,m9]alogy 3 ,,! ,,*>act]s ,,( ,,m9]als1 ,,_! ,,classification ,,& ,,description4 ,f4 ,h4 ,hat* #f #j ,,motion ,,picture ,,op]ation1 ,,/age ,,electrics ,,& ,,illusions4 ,h4 ,c4 ,hor/mann & ,v4 ,h4 ,t\sley #g #f ,,motor ,,truck ,,& ,,automobile ,,motors ,,& ,,me*anism4 ,t4 ,h4 ,russell #h #j ,,motor ,,boats1 ,,hydroplanes ,,& ,,hydroa]oplanes4 ,t4 ,h4 ,russell #h #j ,,mov+ ,,loads ,,on ,,railway ,,und]bridges4 ,h4 ,bam=d #e #f ,,naval ,,diction>y1 ,,italian-,,engli% ,,& ,,engli%-,,italian4 ,w4 ,t4 ,davis #aj #f ,,optical ,,in/rum5ts1 ,,mod]n4 ,h4 ,or=d #d #j ,,optics ,,( ,,photography ,,& ,,photographic ,,l5ses4 ,j4 ,t4 ,taylor #d #j ,,patt]n-,,mak+1 ,,pr9ciples ,,(4 ,j4 ,g4 ,horn] #d #j ,,pipes ,,& ,,tubes3 ,,_! ,,con/ruction ,,& ,,jo9t+4 ,p4 ,r4 ,bjrl+ #f #f ,,plywood ,,& ,,glue1 ,,manufacture ,,& ,,use ,,(1 ,,!4 ,b4 ,c4 ,b\lton #g #f ,,polyphase ,,curr5ts4 ,a4 ,/ill #g #f ,,p[] ,,wir+ ,,diagrams4 ,a4 ,t4 ,dov] #g #f ,,practical ,,electric ,,light ,,fitt+4 ,f4 ,c4 ,allsop ,,practical ,,%eet ,,& ,,plate ,,metal ,,"w4 ,e4 ,a4 ,atk9s #aj #j ,,quantities ,,& ,,quantity ,,tak+4 ,w4 ,e4 ,davis #f #j ,,radio-,,telegraphi/',s ,,guide ,,& ,,log ,,book4 ,w4 ,h4 ,m>*ant #e #f ,,railway ,,te*nical ,,vocabul>y4 ,l4 ,s]railli] #g #f ,,re9=c$ ,,concrete4 ,w4 ,n4 ,twelvetrees #ba #f ,,re9=c$ ,,concrete ,,beams ,,& ,,columns1 ,,practical ,,design ,,(4 ,w4 ,n4 ,twelvetrees #g #f ,,re9=c$ ,,concrete ,,memb]s1 ,,simplifi$ ,,me?ods ,,( ,,calculat+4 ,w4 ,n4 ,twelvetrees #e #j ,,re9=c$ ,,concrete1 ,,detail ,,design ,,94 ,e4 ,s4 ,&rews #f #j ,,roses ,,& ,,rose ,,gr[+4 ,r4 ,g4 ,k+sley #g #f ,,russian ,,weights ,,& ,,measures1 ,,tables ,,(4 ,r$v]s ,eld] #b #f ,,safe ,,loads ,,on ,,/eel ,,pill>s1 ,,tables ,,(4 ,e4 ,s4 ,&rews #f #j ,,slide ,,rule4 ,a4 ,l4 ,higg9s #f ,,slide ,,rule4 ,c4 ,n4 ,pickwor? #c #f ,,soil1 ,,sci5ce ,,( ,,!4 ,c4 ,w>rell #c #f ,,/>ry ,,realms1 ,,94 ,sir ,r4 ,ball #aj #f ,,/eam ,,turb9e ,,!ory ,,& ,,practice4 ,w4 ,j4 ,ke>ton #ae #j ,,/eam ,,turbo-,,alt]nator1 ,,!4 ,l4 ,c4 ,grant #ae #j ,,/eel ,,works ,,analysis4 ,j4 ,o4 ,arnold & ,f4 ,ibbotson #ab #f ,,/orage ,,batt]y ,,practice4 ,r4 ,rank9 #g #f ,,/resses ,,9 ,,hooks ,,& ,,o!r ,,curv$ ,,beams4 ,e4 ,s4 ,&rews #f #j ,,subm>9e ,,vessels1 ,,etc4 ,w4 ,e4 ,dommett #e #j ,,survey+ ,,& ,,survey+ ,,in/rum5ts4 ,g4 ,a4 ,t4 ,middleton #f #j ,,survey+1 ,,tutorial ,,l& ,,& ,,m9e4 ,t4 ,bryson #aj #f ,,te*nical ,,diction>y1 ,,int]national4 ,e4 ,webb] #ae #j ,,telegraphy3 ,,an ,,exposition ,,( ,,! ,,telegraph ,,sy/em ,,( ,,! ,,briti% ,,po/ ,,(fice4 ,t4 ,e4 ,h]b]t #ah #j ,,telegraphy1 ,,elem5t>y4 ,h4 ,w4 ,p5dry #g #f ,,telephone ,,h&book ,,& ,,guide ,,to ,,! ,,telephonic ,,ex*ange1 ,,practical4 ,j4 ,poole #ae #j ,,textile ,,calculations4 ,g4 ,h4 ,:itwam #be #j ,,trans=m]s ,,= ,,s+le ,,& ,,multiphase ,,curr5ts4 ,g4 ,kapp #ab #f ,,trigonometry ,,= ,,eng9e]s1 ,,prim] ,,(4 ,w4 ,g4 ,dunkley #e #j ,,triplane ,,& ,,! ,,/able ,,biplane4 ,j4 ,c4 ,hunsak] #c #j ,,turret ,,la! ,,tools1 ,,h[ ,,to ,,lay ,,out #f #j ,,union ,,textile ,,fabrication4 ,r4 ,beaumont #ba #j ,,v5tilation1 ,,pump+1 ,,& ,,haulage1 ,,! ,,ma!matics ,,(4 ,f4 ,birks #e #j ,,volumetric ,,analysis4 ,j4 ,b4 ,coppock #c #f ,,wat] ,,ma9s1 ,,! ,,lay-,,out ,,( ,,small4 ,h4 ,h4 ,hell9s #g #f ,,wat]works ,,= ,,urban ,,& ,,rural ,,di/ricts4 ,h4 ,c4 ,adams #ae #j ,,wireless ,,= ,,! ,,home4 ,n4 ,p4 ,h9ton #b #j ,,wireless ,,pocket ,,book1 ,,m>9e4 ,w4 ,h4 ,m>*ant #f #j ,,wireless ,,telegraphy ,,& ,,h]tzian ,,waves4 ,s4 ,r4 ,bottone #c #f ,,wireless ,,telegraphy3 ,a ,,practical ,,h&book ,,= ,,op]ators ,,& ,,/ud5ts4 ,w4 ,h4 ,m>*ant #g #f ,,wood-,,block ,,pr9t+4 ,f4 ,morley ,flet*] #h #f ,,woodc>v+4 ,c4 ,g4 ,lel& #g #f ,,woodwork1 ,,manual ,,in/ruction4 ,s4 ,b>t] #g #f ,,wool ,,sub/itutes4 ,r4 ,beaumont #aj #f ,catalogue ( ,sci5tific & ,te*nical ,books po/ free4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,london3 ,,sir ,,isaac ,,pitman ,,sons1 ,,ltd ,,p>k] ,,/reet4 ,,k+sway1 ,w4,c4#b ,,be/ ,,value ,,9 ,,! ,,m>ket ,,panama ,,hats ,m]*ants1 ,%ipp]s ,:olesale ,h\ses ,,requir+ ,,panama ,,hats ,%\ld correspond ) ,,gregory ,,sons #h #i1 ,,new ,,zeal& ,,av5ue1 ,,london1 ,e4,c4#a :o are exp]ts 9 ! ,trade1 & are ,! ,l>ge/ ,import]s 9 ,great ,brita9 99 99 99 99 99 ,telegrams3 8,,gregorio1 ,,london40 ,codes3 ,,b5tleys1 ,a ,b ,c 7#e? ,edition7 ,,lieb]',s ,telephone ,no43 ,,city #agee ,,coignet',s ,,gelat9es ,,coignet ,no4 #a ,,p>is-,,lyon ,,br&s ,,coignet ,no4 #b ,,p>is-,,lyon ,e/abli%$ 9 #ahah ,7 ! fir/ to be us$ = /iff5+ /raw hats & are /ill 4 4 ! be/ 4 4 99 99 99 99 99 ,= ,samples & ,prices apply to ,socit des ,produits ,*imiques ,,coignet ,,p>is3 #aad ,b\lev>d ,mag5ta 7,xe7 ,,london3 #ij ,f5*ur* ,/reet 7,e4,c4#c7 ,,new ,,york3 #ag ,/ate ,/reet ,transcrib]'s ,notes ,m9or punctuation errors h be5 correct$4 ,! foll[+ typos h be5 correct$4 p4 #ah4 8plaits simili>0 *ang$ to 8plaits simil>04 p4 #bd4 8,legat0 *ang$ to 8,lgat04 p4 #gj4 8( a models'0 *ang$ to 8( a model's04 p4 #gh4 8! headfit0 *ang$ to 8! head fit04 p4 #abj4 89 ! easi/ mann]0 *ang$ to 89 ! easie/ mann]04 ,index 8,tegal0 *ang$ to 8,tgal04