,,co/ume ,,fanciful1 ,,hi/orical1 ,,& ,,!atrical ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,coquel91 ,,z ,,cyrano ,,de ,,b]g]ac1 ,,f ,a ,,wat] ,,col\r ,,draw+ ,,by ,,p]cy ,,&]son4 7,reproduc$ by special p]mission47 ,,co/ume3 ,,fanciful1 ,,hi/orical ,,& ,,!atrical ,,compil$ ,,by ,,mrs4 ,,aria ,,illu/rat$ ,,by ,,p]cy ,,&]son ,illu/ration ,london ,,macmillan ,,& ,,co41 ,,limit$ ,,new ,,york3 ,,! ,,macmillan ,,company #aijf ,all rights res]v$ ,illu/ration3 ,to ! de> ,memory ( ,sir ,h5ry ,irv+ by :om ,i 0 inspir$ ) a love = all ?+s beautiful4 ,,introductory ,,note ,x is m]ely a "q ( head1 said ,p]cy ,&]son to me "o day1 :il/ we 7 discuss+ "s easy me?od ( solv+ a problem 9 fancy dress4 ,& he cont9u$3 ,inde$1 ,i w\ld say t1 broadly speak+1 ( all co/ume4 ,! fa%ion ( any p]iod is di/+ui%$ prim>ily by ! way its we>] dresses h] hair4 ,& *ooses h] sleeves1 ,i sugge/$1 & receiv$ 8 approval4 ,we agre$ !n t we 7 bo? mo/ ke5ly int]e/$ 9 dress1 reg>d+ x z "o ( ! f9e & ess5tial arts2 & we decid$ t we w\ld try to prea* its be/ doctr9es & traditions to ! _w at l>ge1 :ile we did n ignore ! fact t _m m wor?y _h previ\sly enri*$ lit]ature ) ! same object4 ,realis+ ?is mo/ acutely1 x came to pass t ,i f\nd myself se>*+ libr>ies = in=mation :i* c\ld s]ve to po9t my moral1 :ile ,mr4 ,&]son cons5t$ to adorn my tale & help me 9 my endeav\r to pres5t concisely1 & ) z little c]emony & z mu* simplicity z possible1 ! ma9 facts ( ! fa%ions :i* h obta9$ ?r\gh ! c5turies4 ,a few practical details & sugge/ions are includ$ 9 ! hope t !y may obviate "s difficulties ( ^? :o fret _! h\r on ! /age or at ! fancy-dress ball1 :ile1 = ! b5efit ( ! next g5]ation1 ,i h devot$ a small space to p]sonal rem9isc5ces ( !atrical h]oes & h]o9es1 & to "s facts ( !atrical dress1 z x has be5 express$ 9 classic & popul> dramas produc$ by ! lead+ actors & actresses ( our "t4 ,e4 ,,aria4 ,,cont5ts ,,page ,,*apt] ,i ,,9 ,,classic ,,times #a ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,9 ,,e>ly ,,m$i,,val ,,times #aj ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,9 ,,! ,,?irte5? ,,c5tury #ai ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,9 ,,! ,,f\rte5? ,,c5tury #bh ,,*apt] ,v ,,9 ,,! ,,fifte5? ,,c5tury #cg ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,9 ,,! ,,sixte5? ,,c5tury #di ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,9 ,,! ,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury #ff ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,9 ,,! ,,eighte5? ,,c5tury #gh ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,9 ,,! ,,n9ete5? ,,c5tury #ib ,,*apt] ,x ,,( ,,briti% ,,peasants #ajf ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,( ,,"s ,,=eign ,,peasants #aae ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,( ,,"s ,,=eign ,,peasants 7cont9u$7 #acj ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,,( ,,ori5tal ,,dress #adg ,,*apt] ,,xiv ,,( ,,ori5tal ,,dress 7cont9u$7 #afc ,,*apt] ,,xv ,,( ,,fancy ,,dress #agh ,,*apt] ,,xvi ,,( ,,dom9oes ,,& ,,masks #aij ,,*apt] ,,xvii ,,( ,,mat]ials1 ,,! ,,corset1 ,,& ,,! ,,cr9ol9e #bja ,,*apt] ,,xviii ,,( ,,c]emonial ,,& ,,bridal ,,dress #baa ,,*apt] ,,xix ,,( ,,danc+ ,,dresses1 ,,european ,,& ,,ori5tal1 ,,anci5t ,,& ,,mod]n #bbe ,,*apt] ,,xx ,,( ,,!atrical ,,dress #bcf ,,illu/rations ,,col\r$ ,,page ,coquel91 z ,cyrano de ,b]g]ac4 7,f a ,wat]-,col\r ,draw+ by ,p]cy ,&]son7 ,frontispiece ,9 ,anci5t ,greece ,to face #e ,9 ! ,twelf? ,c5tury #ab ,9 ! ,?irte5? ,c5tury #bb ,! ,que5 ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 #bh ,a ,g]man ,/ud5t 9 ! ,f\rte5? ,c5tury #cb ,v>ieties ( ! ,h5n9 #dj ,9 ! ,eighte5? ,c5tury #gh ,albanian ,peasants #abj ,9 ,corfu ,to-day #abf ,9 ,*9a ( ,old #adg ,! ,seville ,orange #ahj ,an ,egyptian ,danc] #bbf ,isolde #bdj ,lewis ,wall] z ,h5ry ,v4 #bej ,o!llo #bed ,,9 ,,! ,,text ,two ,h&-,mirrors #d ,a ,roman ,head--,a ,greek ,head #f ,a ,roman ,lady #g ,a ,dress lac$ 9 ! ,front--,a ,dress lac$ at ! ,back #aa ,a ,coronet--,a ,broo* #ac ,a ,pla9 ,wimple #ad ,a ,%oe #ae ,dagg$ ,co/ume 9 ! ,twelf? ,c5tury #af ,a ,clasp$ & ,jewell$ ,girdle--,a ,cloak-,fa/5] #ah ,h5ry ,,iii4's ,que5 #bj ,a ,simple ,button$ ,g[n #ba ,a ,qua9t ,wimple #cd ,! ,head-dress ( ,h5ry ,,iv4--,a ,head ,drap]y held ) ,plait$ ,hair #ce ,embroid]$ ,gloves #cf ,an ,elaborate ,head-dress 9 ! ,reign ( ,h5ry ,v4 #ch ,elizabe? ( ,woodville #ci ,! ,horn$ ,head-dress #da ,head-dress ( ,jewell$ ,velvet & ,lawn #db ,! ,h\ppel&e #dc ,a ,girdle--,a ,po9t$ ,%oe #dd ,elizabe? ( ,york #de ,9 ! ,"t ( ,h5ry ,,vii4 #eb ,a ,trio ( ,ruffs #ee ,que5 ,elizabe? 9 ,full ,dress #ef ,a ,*emisette #eh ,an ,italian ,lady #ei ,two ,italian ,coiffures--,an ,italian ,g5tleman #fj ,a ,spani>d 9 ! ,sixte5? ,c5tury #fa ,a ,%\ld]-,jacket #fb ,! ,cape ) ,button$ ,sleeve #fc ,maximilian #fd ,a ,fea!r & a ,*ick5-sk9 ,fan #fg ,a ,full ,apron #fh ,! ,lace ,commode #gj ,clogs & ,*op9es #ga ,a ,mob-,cap #gc ,glove ) ,jewell$ ,gauntlet #ge ,a ,rid+ ,co/ume #gf ,madame de ,pompad\r #gi ,m>ie ,anto9ette #hb ,a ,peignoir #hc ,a ,coiffure #hd ,a ,v>iety ( ,head-dresses adopt$ 9 ! ,eighte5? ,c5tury #he ,a ,cap & ,hood #hg ,"s ,/icks #hi ,"s ,qua9t ,examples ( ,n9ete5?-,c5tury ,headge> #ic ,lady ,bless+ton #ii ,lady ,bless+ton--,lady ,dalm5y #aja ,two ,coiffures--,e>ly ,victorian ,/yles #ajb ,9 ! ,n9ete5? ,c5tury #ajc ,! ,au/rian ,peasant-,bride 9 ,black #abc ,a ,croatian ,peasant #abd ,a ,croatian ,peasant #abe ,a ,greek ,peasant 9 ,m$ival ,days #abg ,a ,greek ,peasant--,a ,greek ,peasant ,woman--,a ,greek ,prie/--,a ,greek ,brig& #abh ,a ,we/phalian ,peasant #adb ,a ,hung>ian ,peasant 9 ! ,sev5te5? ,c5tury #add ,a ,*9ese ,actor #aeb ,a ,*9ese ,peasant #aec ,an ,egyptian ,peasant ,woman #aei ,an ,egyptian ,wat]-,c>ri] #afj ,an ,egyptian ,peasant #afa ,an ,old ,indian ,fe/ival ,dress #afe ,a ,botticelli ,danc+-,dress #aha ,an ,eighte5?-,c5tury ,pi]rot #ahc ,a ,s\? ,sea ,isl&] #ahf ,! ,knave ( ,diamonds #ahg ,miss ,ell5 ,t]ry z ,mi/ress ,page #bci ,george ,alex&] z ,guy ,domville #bde ,julian ,l',e/range z ,h]mes #bdg ,be]bohm ,tree z ,malvolio #bdi ,miss ,con/ance ,colli] z ,viola #bea ,miss ,g]trude ,elliot z ,desdemona #bec ,vronique #bee ,,*apt] ,i ,,9 ,,classic ,,times ,fa%ion1 ev5 "u exalt$ patronage1 _h scant *ance to di/+ui% h]self 9 ! bad old days ( ! ,romans4 ,%e1 :o n[ mu/ be obey$1 0 =c$ !n to take a back seat enwrapp$ 9 ! toga1 & all :o w\ld h prea*$ or practis$ ! doctr9e ( div]sifi$ dress rema9$ mute1 +lori\s modi/es4 ,x is n on record t any great p]sonage inv5t$ any p>ticul> g>m5t1 or 0 accord$ ! hon\r ( /&+ godmo!r to a fav\r$ /yle4 ,su* privileges z ^? ( ,que5 ,alex&ra1 :o1 at ! indiscretion ( any drap]1 may be sponsor to a ruffle or a petticoat1 or ( ,que5 ,victoria ,eugnie1 ^: "n has be5 snat*$ to hon\r a face-cream1 7 n 9 vogue4 ,?is seems a pity :5 "o comes to consid] ! allit]ative allurem5t ( su* a title z ! ,boadicean bl\se1 & to rememb] t ! ,poppan pomade1 :i* might h be5 ju/ifi$ 9 ! obs]vance1 0 delib]ately committ$ 9 ! brea*4 ,!re 0 sorry opportunity = any :o w\ld h lik$ to /amp individuality on _! co/ume4 ,/yle 0 a cut-&-dri$ affair1 & save 9 ! elaboration or simplicity ( adornm5t v>iety 0 practically )\t ! pale4 ,!re 0 b subtle di/9ction betwe5 ! =m ( ! tunic & ! /ola1 yet p]*ance 9 ! deftness ( ! adju/m5t ( ! drap]y ( ! toga & ! exact position ( ! girdle1 ta/e c\ld play "s "p4 ,b ! _w ( co/ume 0 a dull table-l& exalt$ to a sc5e ( battle only :5 ! /r+5t laws relat+ to extravagances 7 lib]ally disreg>d$4 ,x seems to h be5 a cu/om ?r\gh\t ! ages = "s hi/orian1 rul]1 or prie/ to int]f]e ) ! exi/+ facts ( fa%ion4 ,"o c f9d traces ( su* want ( sympa?y ev5 9 ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,! ,roman laws 7 arbitr>y1 & ,numa actually =bade any woman to h m ?an half an ounce ( gold on h] robes1 :ile he also prohibit$ ! g>m5t ( _m col\rs4 ,x is pleas+1 h[ev]1 to realise t 8 /rictures 7 n tak5 v s]i\sly4 ,! "o s>torial fact ) :i* my y\?ful m9d 0 burd5$ 0 t ! e>lie/ ,britons /a9$ _! tattoo$ bodies ) woad4 ,*ronicl]s are n 9 accord z to ! precise %ade ( ?is blue dye1 prov+ t ! habits ( *ronicl]s *ange b little1 s9ce fa%ion-writ]s ( to-day may be accus$ ( l conduct2 & z woad is m correctly describ$ z an undress uni=m ?an z an article ( clo?+1 ,i w n n[ discuss ! "q ( its exact col\r1 b note cont5t$ly t all au?orities agree t ! ,britons clad !mselves 9 sk9s decorat$ ) beads & fl[]s1 :i*1 9 conjunction ) _! pa9t$ & punctur$ p]sons1 l5t !m a f]oci\s aspect1 q attractive4 ,mu* z ,boadicea dete/$ ! ,romans1 %e pref]r$ _! graceful g>m5ts to ^? worn by h] own c\ntrywom51 & :5 %e l$ h] troops into battle1 %e 0 attir$ 9 all ! glory ( a multi-col\r$ tunic1 & h] hair fell unb\nd ov] h] neck & %\ld]s4 ,wily ,boadicea1 h] unb\nd hair prov$ ! woman 9 ! w>rior1 :o w\ld w9 h] triumph z be/ %e c\ld1 ?\gh hi/ory is c>eful n to attribute to h] any b ! mo/ legitimate me?ods6 ,9 ^? days ! ,roman wom5 made a rule ( we>+ a toga1 :i*1 hang+ f ! neck or ! head1 fell ov] ! %\ld]s & t\*$ ! gr\nd at ! back4 ,! toga 0 ei!r :ite or yell[ = p]sons ( rank1 :5 ! bord] 0 purple1 b ! l[] ord]s _h ! toga dy$1 & 9 times ( m\rn+ *ose x 9 black4 ,)9 doors ! toga 0 disc>d$ altoge!r 9 fav\r ( ! simple tunic1 :i* 0 worn ) or )\t ! girdle1 & made ei!r ( wooll5 mat]ial or cotton or ?9 gauze4 ,t[>ds ! latt] "p ( ! ,empire ! tunic 0 l5g!n$1 & bore sleeves adorn$ ) buttons accord+ to ,hell5ic fa%ion2 inde$1 ! sleeve seem$ !n1 z n[1 to indicate /yle1 = ! e>li] types rea*$ only to ! elb[1 & gradually !y ext5d$ to ! wri/1 & f9ally to ! gr\nd4 ,:5 ! /ola became popul> x 0 always :ite1 be>+ long sleeves ornam5t$ ) a wide bord]1 & ov] x fell a mantle ) a hood r\nd ! %\ld]s4 ,:ite 0 ! fav\rite col\r = a long "t1 & ev5 9 ^? days ! ,gauls inspir$ ! fa%ions4 ,!y taught ! ,britons to sp9 & weave & dye1 & purple & sc>let h]b dyes 7 employ$ ) consid]able success1 ?\gh ! *ief col\r+ matt] 0 woad4 ,! ,roman wom5 all[$ _! ta/e 9 col\r to run riot1 & purple1 sc>let1 gre51 yell[1 hyac9?1 & blue 7 all 9 fav\r1 z well z *equ]$ mat]ials4 ,! foot-ge> at ?is p]iod 0 ( two k9ds1 ei!r rea*+ to ! middle ( ! leg & cov]+ ! :ole foot1 or only protect+ ! sole ( ! foot & be+ secur$ by lea!r ?ongs4 ,wom5's %oes 7 b little less co/ly ?an ^? worn by ! m51 & 7 gay ) ornam5t ( gold set ) pe>ls & o!r preci\s /ones4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,h&-,,mirror4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,h&-,,mirror4 ,jewell]y 0 a great feature2 e>-r+s1 bracelets1 armlets1 torques & necklaces1 & r+s ( gold1 silv]1 & bas] metals1 7 (t5 set ) preci\s /ones1 or engrav$ ) ! portrait ( "s de> fri5d or ! repres5tation ( "s hi/orical ev5t4 ,su* r+s1 be+ us$ = seal+ lett]s & docum5ts1 w\ld usually be bequea!d by a ,roman on 8 dea?-b$ to 8 ne>e/ fri5d4 ,e>-r+s 7 a v fav\rite =m ( adornm5t1 & ?ree or f\r w\ld dangle picturesquely f ea* e>1 b only wom5 & boys wore !m4 ,! we>+ ( r+s1 h[ev]1 0 g5]al4 ,iron1 copp]1 & ivory play$ _! "p 9 ! mak+ ( ! bracelets1 & 9 ! long p9s = ! hair1 :i* 7 decorat$ ) massive heads mo/ly significant1 includ+ su* odd designs z a fi% be>+ 9 its m\? two preci\s /ones1 & a hang+ basket ) a gre$y bird peck+ at its floral cont5ts4 ,! s]p5t f\nd 8 way to fav\r z an armlet & aga9 z a diadem4 ,! ,greeks1 inde$1 7 fond ( adorn+ _! g>m5ts ) bea/s & birds1 :i* !y embroid]$ or wove 9 gold & silv] & col\r$ ?reads4 ,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,anci5t ,,greece4 ,! ,greek female dress consi/$ ( ! pallium1 a cloak-l g>m5t v long & ample1 worn pla91 or be>+ a fr+$ bord]1 & "u ?is 0 a *lamys1 be>+ close k9%ip 9 =m to ! ,roman toga1 & fa/5$ to ! %\ld] by a broo*4 ,! ,grecian wom5 cut _! hair close to _! heads1 & ! m>ri$ 7 di/+ui%$ f ! unm>ri$ by a p>t+ 9 front1 b no ,grecian woman ev] w5t )\t a veil1 cov]+ ! face4 ,! head-dress & ribbons ( matrons diff]$ f ^? ( ! virg9s1 & !re 0 a *ange 9 ! %ape ( ! tunic be=e & aft] m>riage4 ,ribbons 9 ! hair 7 pref]r$ z decorations by ! mode/ wom51 :ile ! c\rtesans cov]$ _! heads ) a mitre1 & c>ri$ oval h&-mirrors1 :i* di/+ui%$ !m1 z x 7 significantly1 f _! m virtu\s si/]s1 :o made use ( fans ( leaves or fea!rs4 ,! art ( beauty1 x seems1 0 /udi$ ) mu* int]e/4 ,! use ( cosmetics 0 greatly fav\r$4 ,:ite lead 0 employ$ to :it5 ! sk91 & v]milion to produce ! rosy bloom ( y\?2 & we h mo/ ( u be5 impress$ by ! fact t ,n]o's wife discov]$ a pomade = ! pres]vation ( h] complexion--no d\bt h] urg5t ne$s l$ to ?is h]oic ef=t6 ,mu* "t & att5tion 7 be/[$ on ! hair1 & ! use ( false tresses 0 v g5]al1 slaves be+ employ$ to curl ! hair1 :ile exp]ts sup]vis$ ! process4 ,! /ructures 7 adorn$ ) pe>ls & o!r preci\s /ones1 cr[ns ( gold & fl[]s1 ribbons & fillets1 :ile ! embroid]$ net1 kn[n z ! caul1 also _h a full %>e ( patronage4 ,! ,roman wom5 w\ld pa9t _! hair a gorge\s yell[4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,roman ,,head4 ,m5 & wom5 alike wore ! co?urnus1 :i* rea*$ to ! knee1 :]e x 0 fa/5$1 purple be+ ! fav\rite col\r = ?is4 ,x c\ld n h be5 possible to obta9 a great v>iety 9 a co/ume1 &1 save 9 ! decoration ( ! tunic1 :i* 0 ornam5t$ ) spots or scrolls1 & 9 ! arrangem5t ( ! girdle1 ( two v>y+ wid?s1 ! "o plac$ above ! o!r s t ! folds ( ! g[n c\ld p\* betwe51 e "o mu/ h appe>$ v l 8 bro!r & 8 si/]4 ,"o ( ! div]g5ces 9 ! fa%ion ( ! tunic worn by ! wom5 & t worn by ! m5 0 9 ! =m] always rea*+ to ! feet & cov]+ ! arms4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,greek ,,head4 ,! actual %ape ( ! g>m5ts v>i$ b little1 & betwe5 ! tunic & ! /ola !re w\ld h be5 "s difficulty 9 see+ any diff]5ce1 b ! /ola 0 worn ov] ! tunic1 & x came z l[ z ! ankles1 & 0 fa/5$ r\nd ! body by a girdle1 broad folds be+ above ! brea/3 ! ess5tial di/9ction betwe5 ! two 9 cut be+ t ! /ola always possess$ an in/ita or fl\nce4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,roman ,,lady4 ,x is a curi\s fact1 & "o wor?y ( note1 t ! dress ( ! boys 0 m>k$ by a *ange aft] ! age ( sev5te54 ,!n !y laid aside ! purple-bord]$ toga 9 fav\r ( ! toga purely :ite1 :ite be+1 presumably1 ! insignia ( lib]ty4 ,boys wore1 too1 ab\t _! necks a holl[ ball or boss1 ! high] classes hav+ ?is 9 gold1 & ! poor] citiz5s 9 lea!r4 ,?is boss 0 also adopt$ z an ornam5t = belts or girdles1 b 9 ! v anci5t days ! ,roman m5 _h no o!r clo?+ ?an ! toga1 & x 0 ?\ght effem9ate to appe> abroad c>elessly girdl$4 ,! ,romans 9 lat] days wore a *iton1 a %ort wooll5 %irt )\t sleeves1 & !y also be/[$ patronage ^u long l95 g>m5ts be>+ sleeves1 :ile above ! toga !y adopt$ a sort ( coat1 op5 9 front & fa/5$ ) clasps & buckles1 ?is %>+ fav\r ) ! greatcoat or surt\t1 :i* bore a hood & 0 *iefly us$ = j\rneys or by ! soldi]s4 ,! milit>y robe prop] ( ! ,romans 0 a wooll5 g>m5t call$ a sagum1 & ! m5 at fir/ wore nei!r /ock+s nor bree*es1 b enwrapp$ _! legs & ?ighs ) pieces ( clo?4 ,lat] !y tri$ socks ( goat's hair & %oes ( unwr\ght lea!r4 ,! %oes ( ! s5ators flaunt$ a gold cre/ on ! top1 & black 0 ! mo/ g5]al col\r1 ?\gh sc>let & r$ 7 also 9 use4 ,gloves too 7 among/ ! possibilities ( ?is e>ly mom5t1 & x is set d[n t "s ( ^! 7 cut ) f+]s1 & t o!rs 7 ( ! patt]n ( a mitt54 ,9 grief ! ,romans all[$ _! hair to gr[1 ev5 z ! ,jews did1 & ! fir/ gr[? ( ! be>d 9 y\? 0 consecrat$ to "s god4 ,! hair 0 treat$ altoge!r ) mu* respect1 valu$ & consid]$ ) c>e4 ,e lady ( di/9ction possess$ h] own hair-dress]1 curl+ irons 7 9 dem&1 & a popul> %ape ( head-dress+ 0 copi$ f ! helmet4 ,= ! re/1 let my illu/rations speak4 ,! col\r$ specim5 repres5ts ! classic ,greek g>b "u its simple/ aspect1 made 9 :ite home-spun bord]$ ) yell[1 & fall+ 9 folds some:at disguiseful to ! figure1 & q simple to a*ieve4 ,! ,roman lady hav+ flatt]$ ! ,grecian sleeve to ! po9t ( imitation1 pr\dly be>s h] toga trac$ ) purple & cr[n$ ) jewels4 ,! two head-dresses are *>act]i/ic1 & among/ ?+s easy to und]/&4 ,tak+ ! s-call$ classic p]iod altoge!r1 x mu/ be admitt$ t among ! anci5t ,greeks & ,romans 7 born ! be/ pr9ciples ( ! art ( dress--an appreciation ( outl9e & a s5se ( grace 9 drap]y4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,9 ,,e>ly ,,m$i,,val ,,times ,f ! days ( ! e>ly ,britons to ! twelf? c5tury is a long jump1 b 9 _m c\ntries ! gr[? ( new fa%ions 0 s sl[ t to attempt to describe x w\ld mean mu* we>y+ repetition & an unnecess>y ext5sion ( ^! pages4 ,= example1 ! dress worn by ! m5 & wom5 ( ,italy dur+ ! twelf? c5tury 0 v simil> to ! old ,roman /yles1 :ile 9 ,s\!rn ,italy ! ,norman dress f\nd fav\r z well z ! ,byzant9e4 ,9 ,sicily ,arab co/ume pr$om9at$1 & 9 ,nor!rn ,italy ! ,g]man & ! ,norman fa%ions %>$ popul>ity4 ,italian wom51 :o all aspir$ to express _! exalt$ bir? by _! dress1 wore 9 ! h\se a tunic or /ola drawn up "u a belt to %[ ! feet1 fitt+ closely to ! figure & be>+ long or %ort sleeves1 z fancy dictat$1 & ov] ?is a palla1 develop$ into a rectangul> piece ( clo?1 pass$ "u ! "r armpit ) ! ends knott$ on ! left %\ld]4 ,until ! close ( ! t5? c5tury1 co/ume 9 ,engl& bore m resemblance to t worn 9 anci5t ,rome ?an to any *os5 by ! ,danes4 ,?\gh ! ,normans 7 greatly influ5c$ by ! ,s>ac5ic & ,byzant9e fa%ions prevail+ 9 ,s\!rn ,europe1 an ,engli% lady ( ! twelf? c5tury c\ld sc>cely h be5 di/+ui%$ by h] attire f a lady ( ! ,l[] ,empire1 or ev5 a mod]n maid ( ,a!ns2 & no d\bt a contempor>y wit ( flippant habit w\ld h excus$ h] simplicity by decl>+ t ! /udy ( co/ume 0 ,greek to h]4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,dress ,,lac$ ,,9 ,,! ,,front4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,dress ,,lac$ ,,at ,,! ,,back4 ,! prevail+ note 9 dress 9 ! twelf? c5tury 0 co/l9ess4 ,! k+ set ! fa%ion ( ri* app>el1 & 8 example 0 foll[$ by bo? cl]gy & p1 ?\gh ! =m] ex]cis$ _! didactic privileges by inveigh+ aga9/ ! mo/ popul> ecc5tricities4 ,! wom5's dress at ?is p]iod %[$ a /rong t5d5cy to exagg]at$ l5g?1 & ! veils & k]*iefs 7 s long t ! fair we>]s 7 =c$ to knot !m to avoid tread+ on !m1 :ile ! skirts lay 9 great folds on ! gr\nd4 ,mu* significance might be atta*$ to t preci\s old ,,ms4 :]e ! illum9ator depicts ! devil 9 a woman's surcoat ) a sleeve & skirts ti$ up 9 knots6 ,robes 7 lac$ up 9 front1 & ! cuffs ( ! sleeves embroid]$ or fur-trimm$1 & ov] ! long robe or tunic appe>$ a %ort] g>m5t resembl+ ! sur cte1 :i* 0 *equ]$ & spott$1 presumably to repres5t embroid]y1 & f9i%$ ) an ind5t$ bord] t]m$ dagg$1 9 a fa%ion condemn$ by ,h5ry ,,ii4 ,norman ladies wore _! hair plait$1 ! braids (t5 incas$ 9 silk or b\nd r\nd ) ribbon & f9i%$ (f ) ?ree curls2 b t[>ds ! end ( ! twelf? c5tury ! hair 0 frequ5tly held 9 a network ( gold set ) /ones4 ,! cl]gy _h mu* to say on ! subject ( ! long be>ds :i* reappe>$ dur+ ! reign ( ,h5ry ,i42 & t "o1 m =cible ?an elegant 9 8 d5unciations1 :o describ$ ! m5 ( 8 "t z fil?y goats1 has = ! solecism gone d[n to po/]ity ) ! prie/ :o1 prea*+ su* a mov+ s]mon on ! subject t k+ & c\rti]s wept1 took advantage ( ! impression he _h made1 drew out a l>ge pair ( scissors t he _h conceal$ 9 8 sleeve1 & cropp$ ! entire assemblage4 ,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,! ,,twelf? ,,c5tury4 ,dur+ ! latt] half ( ! twelf? c5tury a *ange = ! bett] came ov] ! _s ( dress1 :i* 0 n[ m>k$ by a great] retic5ce4 ,! extravagant cuff disappe>$1 & sleeves 7 worn tight & fa/5$ at ! wri/4 ,an effigy ( ,que5 ,b]5g>ia1 9 ! ,abbey ( l',espan1 %[s ! que5 ) fl[+ locks p>tly cov]$ by a k]*ief1 surm\nt$ by a gold cr[n2 h] robe is held toge!r at ! neck by a l>ge circul> broo* set ) preci\s /ones1 h] mantle hang+ almo/ to h] feet beh9d1 :ile a small aumnire is p5d5t f a beautiful girdle4 ,= j s mu* detail & no m w\ld ,i p9 my fai? to a monum5tal sculptor z a fa%ion hi/orian4 ,gre5 0 ! fav\rite col\r ( ! robe 9 ! reign ( ,john1 & !re is a k+'s w>rant = two gre5 robes = ! que51 ea* to consi/ ( two ells ( clo?1 :ile !re exi/s a regi/] %[+ t a gre5 robe l9$ ) condal co/ sixty %ill+s2 s common1 9 fact1 0 ! we>+ ( ! gre5 t ,long*amp1 ! arrogant ,bi%op ( ,ely1 :5 he 0 =c$ to fly ! k+dom to escape ,john's rage1 disguis$ himself 9 a woman's gre5 tunic & ,norman mantle & hood ( ! same col\r4 ,x 0 ! h>ve/-"t = ! embroid]]s1 or at lea/ x ought to h be51 b x is n on record t _! s]vices 7 rew>d$ ) any magnific5t g5]osity4 ,embroid]y 0 rampant3 all /ate g>m5ts 7 trac$ ) gold1 & vivid col\rs w\ld adorn robes & mantles alike1 a fav\rite design be+ a s]ies ( circles4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,coronet4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,broo*4 ,! pelisse n[ came into exi/5ce2 9 =m x 0 a close-fitt+ dress1 a prototype ( ! g>m5t :i* be>s ! same title to-day4 ,fur 0 a modi% trimm+1 & n9e b>s ( fur are m5tion$ z a trimm+ ( "s special grey pelisse :i* ,k+ ,john be/[$ ^u ,isabella ( ,ang\lme4 ,obvi\sly ! sealsk9 paletot & ! sable cape 7 n among/ ! possibilities ( t h\r1 or ,8 ,maje/y w\ld n h be5 let (f s *eaply4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,pla9 ,,wimple4 ,b to ! en?usia/ic *ronicl] ( fa%ion !re 0 "o fact ( ,k+ ,john's reign :i* 0 pre-em95tly wor?y & admirable4 ,?is 0 ! introduction ( ! wimple1 ( all attributes to fem99e beauty surely ! mo/ becom+ ev] conceiv$ or accompli%$6 ,x 0 made ei!r 9 silk or l951 a cov]+ = ! neck1 *91 & =ehead at once disguiseful & provocative1 coquetti% & demure4 ,at times ! wimple 0 little m ?an an elaborat$ veil or k]*ief1 b 9 its mo/ allur+ =m x 0 a sep>ate article worn "u ! veil1 z 9 a nun's dress ( to-day1 :i*1 9 fact1 9 all b col\r1 be>s a /rik+ resemblance to ! ?irte5?-c5tury dress4 ,inde$ ,*auc] di/+ui%es ! two :5 he says-- ,w]+ a vaile in/$ ( wimple1 ,z nonnes don 9 !r abbey4 ,! wimple 0 wrapp$ r\nd ! head & *91 & ladies ( weal? b\nd x on ! =ehead by a gold5 or jewell$ fillet1 :ile _! poor] si/]s us$ pla9 silk4 ,silk5 wimples 7 =bidd5 to ! nuns1 :o 7 !n z n[ devot$ to :ite l954 ,x is n unlikely t ! wimple orig9at$ ) ! fa%ion ( we>+ ! cov]*ief ab\t ! neck1 & x 0 t[>ds ! end ( ! twelf? c5tury t ! cov]*ief und]w5t trans=mation1 gr[+ small] & be+ ti$ "u ! *9 l a mod]n cap or bonnet4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,%oe4 ,boots & %oes =m$ an important portion ( dress 9 ! twelf? c5tury1 & "h aga9 ! int]f]+ cl]ic play$ 8 fav\rite rle ( d5unciator4 ,! monks1 :o 7 d5i$ _! we>1 abus$ ) vig\r ! peak-to$ boots & %oes1 :i* inde$ rea*$ a po9t exquisitely ridicul\s :5 a c\rti] c\ld *oose to /uff ! po9ts ( 8 %oes ) t[1 s t !y might curl up l ram's horns4 ,dispassionately1 ,i recognise z mu* wit z wisdom 9 ! notion4 ,wom5 wore %ort boots z well z %oes1 b ! dresses 7 s long t only ! tips ( ! toes c\ld be se51 & !y 7 cont5t to embroid] ^! 9 gold ) fanciful or circul> devices4 ,gloves1 jewell$ at ! back1 7 *os5 by ! ri*] classes1 & co>sely-made w>m gloves )\t f+]s receiv$ a mild patronage f ! poor4 ,b wom5 wore gloves v r>ely2 !y 7 n among/ ! trifles :i* attract$ fem99e att5tion1 ?\gh !re 0 mu* g5]al love = v>iety1 & a va/ am\nt ( money1 c>e1 & ?\ght 0 be/[$ on p]sonal adornm5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,dagg$ ,,co/ume ,,9 ,,! ,,twelf? ,,c5tury4 ,9 ! e>ly "p ( ! ?irte5? c5tury _m beautiful fabrics put 9 an appe>ance4 ,velvet1 & silk int]wov5 ) gold1 & clo? ) _m col\rs 7 fa%ionable1 :ile x became a v popul> practice to ornam5t hems ( g>m5ts by cutt+ !m into ind5t$ tabs or leaves1 a fa%ion to :i* ,i h ref]r$ previ\sly z dagg$1 ! contempor>y expression4 ,h[ pretty ! dagg$ co/ume may be is easily realis$ by glanc+ at ! picture on page #af1 :i* %[s x entirely made 9 clo?1 cr[n$ by a :ite l95 turban ) a b& ( l95 "u ! *94 ,! turban adorn$ _m a fair & d>k head1 ! ,spani% wom5 we>+ x exclusively1 draw+ _! inspiration = ?is1 & = _! trail+ robes & funnel-%ap$ sleeves1 f ! ,arab fa%ions4 ,fr5*wom5 ass]t$ !mselves z pione]s ) ! closely-fitt+ g>m5t t all[$ ! l9es ( ! figure to be se51 a legitimate ance/ress to our pr9cess g[n4 ,sleeves e/abli%$ _! "r to exi/ 9 m ?an "o =m1 "s be+ wide at ! top1 o!rs n>r[1 close-fitt+1 & fa/5$ at ! wri/s1 & o!rs aga9 n>r[ at ! top & to ! middle ( ! =e>m1 :]e !y wid5$ & fell almo/ to ! gr\nd4 ,! cuirass dress 0 (t5 slightly op5 at ! neck 9 ord] to %[ ! "u-g>m5t1 & a long girdle embroid]$ 9 gold 0 pass$ r\nd ! wai/1 cross$ beh9d & br\ght r\nd aga9 to ! front a little l[] d[n1 :]e x 0 ti$ s t ! ends fell loosely4 ,9 ! twelf? c5tury ?is /yle ( g[n 0 frequ5tly drap$ on ! hips & worn )\t ! embroid]$ bodice or ! girdle1 & a fav\r$ long robe 0 op5 f top to bottom & fa/5$ ) buttons4 ,mantles 7 semicircul> 9 cut & held 9 div]s ways1 & _! bord]s 7 adorn$ ) rectangul> metal plaques1 ea* pi]c$ ) five holes1 a d\ble cord be+ pass$ ?r\gh ^! holes & fa/5$ beh9d4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,clasp$ ,,& ,,jewell$ ,,girdle4 ,an affection = jewels1 r+s & coll>s ( pe>ls1 diadems & clasps1 0 common to all ! nobles ( all ! nations1 :ile caps1 wimples1 & veils cr[n$ ! fair ) grace1 & p]mitt$ "s div]sity ( expression4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,cloak-,,fa/5]4 ,9 ! twelf? c5tury ! ,engli% hi/orian decl>es t 9 ,france fa%ion danc$ ! gaye/ tunes & 0 upro>i\s 9 h] dem& = extravagance1 &1 if ,fr5* *ronicl]s are to be believ$1 mod]ation m>k$ ! foot/eps ( ! native monda9e1 ^: %oes 7 comp>atively l[ & bore small po9ts4 ,b ,i d\bt n t1 !n z n[1 ea* woman 0 a pr(it to h] own c\ntry1 & did h] duty to comm]ce by practis+ prodigality ) unsw]v+ en?usiasm4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,9 ,,! ,,?irte5? ,,c5tury ,a comp>ative simplicity m>k$ ! raim5t ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 :5 ! elaborate detail yield$ place to ample folds ( drap]y1 capaci\s mantles1 & fl[+ tra9s4 ,x 0 a simplicity1 h[ev]1 :i* _c consci5ti\sly be congratulat$ ^u its economical habits1 = ! fabrics employ$ 7 ( ! ri*e/ & mo/ sumptu\s1 & ! bread? ( ! g>m5ts 0 prodigi\s4 ,! dress :i* is s pr\dly worn by ! ,que5 9 ! illu/ration on page #bj1 is *>act]i/ically spl5did1 & a glance at x %[s t x 0 fa%ion$ ( a ?ick brocade trac$ 9 diamond design1 & cut squ>e 9 ! neck & v long 9 ! sleeves1 :]e a few folds ( :ite lawn appe> becom+ly above ! wri/s1 ! veil fall+ f neck to hem1 & ! enfold+ gorget be+ fa/5$ tightly "u ! *94 ,pre-em95tly typical 0 ano!r dress hon\r$ by ?is ,eleanor ( ,prov5ce--a mo/ unpopul> lady1 by ! way1 ev5 ?\gh h] ta/e 9 co/ume might h made = "s measure ( success1 at lea/ among/ h] fem99e subjects4 ,%e *ose a g[n ( gold brocade1 sleeves rea*+ to ! wri/s1 :ile ov] ?is %e wore a mantle bord]$ ) gold & be>+ a coll> ( erm9e4 ,! mantle 0 held up by a broo* ( gold set ) jewels1 ! head cr[n$ ) a ,go?ic design ( floriat$ trefoils above a jewell$ b&4 ,illu/ration3 ,,h5ry ,,iii4',s ,,que54 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,simple ,,button$ ,,g[n4 ,! foll[+ description1 comm5dably brief1 :i* ,i h read ( a dress worn by ! wife ( ,edw>d ,i4 w br+ home ! fa%ion ( ! day to ! und]/&+ ( ! lea/ initiat$3--,a long g[n ) loose sleeves2 held at ! brea/ by a n>r[ b& is a long mantle1 folds ( ?is cov]+ ! feet2 ornam5ts none4 ,b !n no d\bt ! amiable lady suff]$ f a popul> lean+ 9 fav\r ( conjugal ob$i5ce1 & x is well kn[n t ,k+ ,edw>d himself /r5u\sly upheld all simple g>b1 ?\gh x mu/ be admitt$ t 8 desc5dants %[$ b small respect = 8 prejudices :5 !y buri$ him 9 a dalmatic ( r$ silk damask1 a crimson sat9 mantle fa/5$ on ! %\ld]s by a gilt fibula decorat$ ) preci\s /ones2 a /ola ( :ite tissue ornam5t$ ) gilt quatrefolds & knots cross$ on ! brea/1 & jewell$ gloves ^u 8 augu/ h&s4 ,! l[] "p ( 8 body 0 wrapp$ 9 a piece ( clo? ( gold4 ,"s sev]ity also m>k$ co/ume 9 ,france at ?is "t1 :5 !re 0 a sugge/ion ( ! ecclesia/ical 9 ! high guimpe )\t :i* no dress 0 complete4 ,?is 0 a fancy inaugurat$ by ! second wife ( ,philip ,,iii4 = ! special b5efit ( h] long ?roat & flat *e/2 & worn 9 company ) a po9t$ head-dress & a fl[+ veil1 a closely-fitt+ long robe ( brocade1 & an embroid]$ mantle1 ! g5]al effect mu/ h be5 entirely dignifi$ & impressive4 ,simplicity1 h[ev]1 did n reign "h long1 & ,l\is ,,ix4 ( ,france appe>s to h be5 q l5i5t t[>ds extravagance1 & to h _h a nice ta/e ( 8 own1 judg+ f ! picture :i* repres5ts him we>+ a velvet cap1 a tunic op5 at ! neck1 & a robe ( br[n embroid]$ ) r$ fl[]s1 & possess+ long sleeves trimm$ ) fur4 ,fur 0 among/ 8 weaknesses evid5tly1 = a deep cape ( fur cov]s 8 %\ld]s 9 ano!r picture1 :]e he is we>+ a fur-trimm$ robe & has indulg$ himself ) r$ /ock+s & black %oes4 ,?is 0 ! ,k+ :o urg$ 8 c\rti]s to dress !mselves well & neatly1 s t _! wives w\ld love !m ! m1 & _! p e/eem !m high]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,! ,,?irte5? ,,c5tury4 ,philip ! ,fair1 or ,unfair1 ( ,france decre$ t ,no damoiselle1 if %e be n *tela9e or dame own+ #bjjj levies ye>ly1 %all h m ?an "o pair ( g[ns p] ye>2 & if %e be1 %e %all h two pairs & no m--an edict :i* 01 ( c\rse1 defi$ fe>lessly4 ,sumptu>y laws come someh[ to be disreg>d$1 prov+ ! c\rage ( wom5 9 def5ce ( _! idol--fa%ion4 ,v curi\s is a coiffure :i* obta9$ 9 ! reign ( ,philip ! ,bold1 consi/+ ( a cov]+ l a plate 9 outl9e worn ^u ! head1 ) a veil fall+ ov] ! *eeks & p5d5t at ! back4 ,f> m attractive mu/ h be5 ! head-dress ( peacock's fea!rs :i* obta9$ ab\t t "t1 :5 prodigality began to ass]t itself defiantly 9 magnific5t jewels & g[ns ( condal emblazon$ ) rubies & sapphires2 & :5 silk5 hose1 gold & silv] embroid]y1 & furr$ trimm+s 7 among/ ! atta9able & ! atta9$4 ,lavi%ness rul$ 9 ,italy 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 :5 wom5 wore long full g[ns ( silk velvet brocade1 & tissues ( gold & silv]1 & wooll5 mat]ials dy$ violet or sc>let4 ,!y _h v l>ge sleeves1 _! h&s (t5 be+ m ?an half cov]$ ) ^!1 :i* t\*$ ! gr\nd2 & ornam5ts ( pe>ls & bord]s ( gold edg$ ) pe>ls 7 *apt]s 9 ! /ory ( magnific5ce1 little hoods adorn$ ) gold & pe>ls & embroid]y speak+ ! f9al ^w ( spl5d\r4 ,! ,italian matron wore a long mantle t\*+ ! gr\nd1 & op5 9 ! front1 fa/5$ ) buttons or clasps enri*$ ) pe>ls1 & l9$ ) silk & deck$ ) gold1 & :5 ! hood 0 disp5s$ )1 ! hair 0 cov]$ ) a light transp>5t veil ( silk4 ,! kirtle worn 9 ,engl& 9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,i4 0 9 =m pla9 to ! po9t ( sev]ity1 b ov] x on occasions !re fl[$ a robe ) a long tra91 ! ladies ( rank *oos+ ! kirtle 9 z ri* mat]ial z ! robe1 :i* !y remov$ z a m>k ( respect :5 att5d+ on illu/ri\s gue/s4 ,! kirtle 0 a g>m5t orig9ally common to bo? sexes1 & is be/ describ$ z a smock frock1 al?\gh ! t]m at diff]5t times has be5 p]mitt$ to signify a cloak1 a g[n1 a wai/coat1 & ev5 a petticoat1 & 9 ! fifte5? c5tury x 0 disgrac$ into a habit ( p5ance4 ,mo/ frequ5tly ! kirtle 0 lac$ closely to ! body & hung /raight d[nw>ds to ! hem4 ,9 ! latt] ye>s ( ?is c5tury 0 introduc$ ! surkuane1 :i*1 accord+ to a fam\s writ]1 0 ( ,langu$ocian orig94 ,he describes x z be+ a bodice cut d[n ! front & display+ 9 ! int]vals left by ! lac+s1 v wide ap>t1 a transp>5t tissue ( ! *emise elaborately pleat$ & embroid]$ 9 gold & silv]4 ,! exi/5ce ( ?is has1 h[ev]1 be5 disput$ by no less an au?ority ?an ,plan*1 :o has fail$ to discov] any trace ( a ?irte5?-c5tury dress fulfill+ su* conditions4 ,yet x 0 at ?is "t t an edict 0 pass$ prohibit+ ! cottes lacs & *emises brodes1 & _h !re be5 no su* fa%ion ( bodice1 !re w\ld h be5 no temptation = su* luxuries1 & no occasion = legislation to *eck ! indulg5ce4 ,! embroid]$ %ift 0 =bidd5 to all save brides1 :o 7 p]mitt$ x on _! w$d+ day & = ! twelve succe$+ mon?s4 ,surely to h set su* limit on ! we> ( da9ty l+]ie enc\rag$ t repreh5sible be+ ! slatt]nly wife1 ^: *>ms d n outlive h] tr\sseau4 ,! co/ume ( ! bridegroom is n specialis$1 b man "u less ec/atic circum/ances seems to h be5 di/+ui%$ by a l>ge cloak ) full sleeves & a hood1 a :ite l95 coif ti$ "u 8 *91 :ile a fanta/ic sort ( close cap =m$ headge> common alike to ,france1 ,g]many1 & ,engl&1 ! orig9 be+ d\btful4 ,b5ea? ! long cloak m5 wore a long g[n rea*+ to ! feet1 & fa/5$ at ! wai/1 & z an alt]native to ?is !y c\ld *oose a tunic to ! knee1 ) wide sleeves to ! elb[1 ! fitt+ sleeves ( ! "u-tunic t]m9at+ at ! wri/s & fa/5+ ) a closely-set r[ ( buttons1 or1 if ! buttons 7 omitt$1 sewn tightly r\nd4 ,briefly1 wom5's dress 9 ,engl& 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury consi/$ ( a wimple & gorget swa!d r\nd ! neck & fa/5$ by p9s above ! e>s1 conceal+ alike br[ & *92 ! full g[n worn loose _h sleeves trail+ on ! gr\nd1 & ! "u-g>m5t1 :i* 0 g5]ally d>k] ?an ! g[n1 _h tight-fitt+ sleeves turn$ up f ! wri/s4 ,! poor] wom5 wore a some:at %ort] g[n caught up "u ! arm to reveal ! "u-g>m5t1 & high boots rea*+ to ! calf ( ! leg & fa/5$ ) a d\ble r[ ( buttons4 ,9 ,france1 h[ev]1 ! wom5 ( ! middle & l[] classes wore grey %oes1 :5ce x is suppos$ ! ^w grisette 0 born1 :i* f mod]n usage has come to typify somebody captivat+ :o dwells 9 ! ,lat9 qu>t]4 ,!re 71 h[ev]1 *anges :i* des]ve m5tion4 ,! hood 0 /ill 9 fav\r1 & ! long wide circul> cloak 0 worn fa/5$ at ! neck ) d\ble cords1 & ! tra9s ( ! dresses became abnormally ext5d$1 evok+ f idle critics _m m or less witty quips :i* may or may n h influ5c$ ! subsequ5t less5+ ( ! tra9s4 ,gradually ! wid? ( ! dresses decreas$ z _! l5g? increas$1 & ! girdle _h ! privilege ( exi/+ m]ely z an ornam5t1 :ile ! cuffs ( ! "u-sleeves 7 adorn$ ) buttons1 & ! hang+ ov]-sleeve 0 cut z a long bag f ! elb[ to ! %\ld]s1 :]e x fa/5$ into ! robe & fell to ! floor4 ,among/ ! wise saws ( anci5t in/ance 0 ! advice 9 ! ,romance ( ! ,rose1 t ladies %\ld let trail+ robes hide ! feet ( ^? too l>ge & unsightly1 b t ! m beautifully gift$ c\ld hold up _! skirts & proce$ 9 com=t4 ,h]e9 may we realise t wisdom is no new c\nsellor 9 ! ways ( vanity1 & ,i am q conv9c$ t "s su* philosoph] mu/ h guid$ ! selection ( ! dame ^: picture faces page #bb 9 drap]ies ( p9k ov] mauve1 ) a purple mantle l9$ ) r$4 ,no?+ c\ld be m becom+ ?an ! simple l9es ( h] g[n :i* fl[ f neck to hem1 trimm$ at ! top ) gold jewels set ) em]alds1 :ile r\nd h] br[ is a gold5 fillet1 ) a fold ( :ite lawn "u ! *9 hold+ ?is f side to side4 ,h[ attractive are ^! lawn folds may be not$ aga9 on a fam\s canvas1 :i* portrays a dress ( ! same p]iod 9 ?ick brocade1 ) a pla9 ov]-skirt bord]$ ) embroid]y1 & ! broad flat turban hat flank$ on ei!r side by w+s elaborately deck$ ) jewels1 ) a p5d5t veil f ! back4 ,!re is mu* virtue 9 ! veil1 & its l5g? & condition 7 v>i$ to suit ! individual & h] circum/ance4 ,on /ate occasions x w\ld be ov]spread by ano!r veil1 & above x by ! wom5 ( quality w\ld be plac$ a cr[n ( gold2 or x w\ld ass]t its influ5ce ov] ! hair1 :i* 0 p>t$ on ! =ehead1 curl$ or plait$ beh9d ! e>s1 & conf9$ 9 a gold net kn[n z a crisp9e2 wom5 ( highe/ degree *oos+ ?is crisp9e ( gold ?read set ) jewels & encircl+ x by a gold b& also jewell$1 :i* w\ld =m ! frame = ! veil4 ,?is crisp9e 9 v>i\s =ms 0 ! common fa%ion = a long "t1 & :5 disc>d$ ! hair 0 b\nd tightly to ! head ) a silk5 fillet & g>l&s ( fl[]s4 ,alike 9 ! decoration ( ! head & 9 ! fabrics :i* 7 *os5 to glorify ! simple g[ns1 x appe>s to h be5 q possible to evade ! _s1 :ile obey+ ! lett]1 ( ! law ( simplicity :i* ! rul]s dem&$ at ! h&s ( fa%ion4 ,fa%ion grant$ x ) a diff]5ce1 & :ile rigidly au/]e 9 cut1 clo!s 7 s g5]ally magnific5t 9 _! mat]ial & s g5]\s 9 _! wid?1 t ru9 might wait swiftly ^u ! prodigal ) a pretty fancy 9 frocks4 ,& to ?9k t ! security ( a ,m>ri$ ,wom5's ,prop]ty ,act 0 outside ! k5 & com=t ( ! weak & confid+ "l1 :o lov$ 8 lady too well to d5y h] caprice6 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,9 ,,! ,,f\rte5? ,,c5tury ,sumptu\s & ev] m sumptu\s grew dress 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury1 :5 ! outfit br\ght by ,isabella ( ,france1 ^u ! occasion ( h] m>riage ) ,edw>d ,,ii41 0 a conspicu\s example ( ! possibilities ( extravagance4 ,hi/orians h x t h] robes 7 ( gold & silv] & ( %ot taffeta & velvet1 t !re 7 _m beautiful furs1 & t six doz5 coifs & #dai y>ds ( l951 & six dresses ( gre5 clo?1 six dresses spl5didly m>bl$1 & six dresses ( rose sc>let 7 includ$ 9 h] possessions4 ,sov]eigns 9 ^? times took unto !mselves "s pride 9 lead+ ! fa%ions1 & we h ,anne1 wife ( ,ri*>d ,,ii41 effect+ ! introduction ( ! cte h>die1 a g>m5t n unlike a wai/coat1 fitt+ closely on ! hips & trimm$ r\nd ) a bord] ( fur & button$ d[n ! front4 ,?is 0 cut squ>e bel[ ! neck & boa/$ long tight-fitt+ sleeves1 & 0 made ( ei!r pla9 or embroid]$ mat]ial1 or x display$1 z did s _m ( ! g>m5ts ( t day1 an embroid]$ bord]4 ,embroid]y fl\ri%$ 9 ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,ii41 :5 dress1 petticoat1 & mantle w\ld be emblazon$ ) ! arms ( ! we>]'s family1 & ! device ( a bird & tree adorn$ ) /ately grace _m a mantle ( ,ri*>d's ,que51 :o mu/ be cr$it$ ) a mo/ admirable incl9ation t[>ds beautiful frocks4 ,9 ! picture giv5 %e is %[n we>+ a tra9 ( peacock-blue velvet bord]$ ) gold & embroid]$ ) ! fleurs-de-lys1 :ile h] head appe>s to great advantage ) a %ort veil b5ea? h] cr[n1 h] hair be+ braid$ ov] ! e>s & a small lawn b& support+ h] *94 ,! sleeve ( ?is frock %[s ! fancy :i* obta9$ = ! long sc>f held above ! elb[ & fall+ ) long ends edg$ ) fur2 & ! little *emisette & ! :ite cuffs give a w9n+ sugge/ion ( simplicity to an attire completely magnific5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,que5 ,,( ,,ri*>d ,,ii4 ,h] royal consort deck$ himself ) dress no less elaborate1 fur1 gold1 embroid]y1 & brocade & velvet all hav+ ! privilege ( adorn+ ,8 ,maje/y1 ^: c\rti]s wore robes emblazon$ & embroid]$ ) preci\s /ones1 & mantles slic$ 9 po9t$ leaf or squ>e ind5t$ edges4 ,p>ti-col\r$ g>m5ts 7 _! delight1 ! dress (t5 be+ divid$ 9 two1 half 9 "o col\r & half 9 ano!r1 hose suff]+ l treatm5t2 & _! wide sleeves1 kn[n z devil's receptacles1 trail$ along ! gr\nd1 ) _m sla%+s to decorate !m4 ,! ,tr\bad\rs gaily twang$ ! guit> & o!r in/rum5ts at ! t\rnam5t1 :]e ! dames & matrons rode 9 p>ti-col\r$ tunics1 ) hoods & long tails to !m1 & bore small gold or silv] swords or dagg]s 9 ! girdle1 :i* fell ov] ! hips in/ead ( encircl+ ! wai/4 ,erm9e %$ its s(t influ5ce on _m ( ! /iffe/ ( silks1 & dresses 7 completely l9$ ) erm9e1 :i* also bord]$ ! cte h>die4 ,a deep royal blue 0 a v fav\rite col\r1 & jewels obta9$ 9 abundance1 girdles be+ encru/$ ) ^!1 :ile no neck seem$ complete )\t a necklace ( f\r r[s ( jewels & a p5d5t cross4 ,a good example ( ! dress worn by ! middle class may be tak5 f ,*auc]'s ,wife ( ,ba?4 ,he tells u %e wore on h] head on ,sundays a f9e clo? k]*ief :i* weigh$ a p\nd1 & sc>let /ock+s & f9e new %oes2 %e travell$ 9 a wimple & a v broad hat & cloak4 ,! ,mill]'s wife w5t abroad 9 a girdle1 b>r$ all ( silk1 & a :ite apron or b>me clo?1 z x 0 !n call$4 ,h] %ift _h its coll> embroid]$ 9 front & beh9d ) black silk1 & %e cov]$ h] head ) a :ite cap ti$ ) /r+s1 above a broad silk fillet4 ,%e _h a lea!rn purse ) metal buttons & silk5 tassels dep5d+ f h] girdle4 ,edw>d ,,ii4's reign welcom$ a new mode ( dress+ ! hair1 :i* 0 p>t$ 9 ! middle2 ov] ea* e> 0 a gold5 basket1 & on ! top 0 a b& ( gold1 n>r[] 9 ! c5tre & broad] t[>ds ! e>s1 & ! cov]*ief 0 plac$ on ! top ( ! head4 ,a peculi> me?od too 0 ! arrang+ ( ! hair 9 sausage rolls1 cov]$ ) a :ite veil held 9 a lattice-"w ( gold4 ,on ! :ole1 head-dresses 7 m rem>kable ?an beautiful & becom+4 ,! caput1 :i* came a little lat]1 & might h be5 call$ ugly1 fitt$ closely to ! head1 & _h a broad scollop$ bord]1 & sometimes1 9 addition1 two lappets :i* hung to ! wai/2 o!rs 7 po9t$ z ! bi%op's mitre2 & mo/ 7 *>act]is$ by a lack ( height ) no hair visible2 & ! p5d5t veil at ! back bore an embroid]$ bord]4 ,!re 0 mu* hank]+ aft] yell[ hair 9 ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,ii41 & ^? :o 7 unbless$ ) gold5 locks w\ld dye !m ) saffron4 ,gloves receiv$ ! special att5tion ( wom5 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury1 &1 :5 n actually on ! h&s1 7 plac$ 9 ! girdle or c>ri$4 ,! gauntlets 7 jewell$1 & embroid]y 0 on ! back or r\nd ! base ( ! f+]s4 ,spa9 & ,france 7 fam\s = _! pr(ici5cy & indu/ry 9 ! mak+ ( gloves1 & fur & %eepsk9 7 us$ = ^! z well z wool & silk4 ,9 ,g]many ! co/ume affect$ dur+ ! f\rte5? c5tury diff]$ b little f t ( ! ?irte5?4 ,! dress ( ! wom5 consi/$ ( a long g>m5t ) a %ort] "u-dress1 & ov] ?is ano!r dress 0 worn1 & ov] ?is aga9 a mantle4 ,! loose "u-g>m5t 0 v long1 closely fitt+ to ! hips1 :5ce ! skirt increas$ consid]ably 9 wid?2 long n>r[ sleeves 7 made ( :ite or col\r$ silk or ( f9e l951 & ! necks ( ! dresses & ! bord]s ( ! sleeves 7 trimm$ ) trac+s ( gold2 a %ort *emise 0 visible f neck to wai/1 & ! ,hausfrau bun* ( keys hung f ! girdle4 ,x is on record1 inde$1 t ,g]man wom5 9 ?is c5tury 7 buri$ ) _! keys1 & t divorc$ wom5 7 b\nd to return !m to _! husb&s4 ,"y girls wore a long sleeveless robe closely fitt+ to ! hips & ample 9 ! skirt1 & ov] ?is a long g[n ( equal fulness fell f ! neck1 extremely wide ^u ! %\ld]s1 & cov]+ ! =e>m on bo? sides z a long tab>d1 circul> pieces be+ cut out f ea* side1 & ! l[] portion ( ! skirt sewn up4 ,! old ,teuton mode ( hair-dress+ ) fl[+ locks prevail$1 b plait+ also 0 9 vogue1 twi/$ ) col\r$ or gold ribbons1 or held at ! back 9 a gold5 net4 ,simple g>l&s ( fl[]s 7 plac$ 9 ! hair1 & a fillet ( /uff or metal1 ?is be+ %ap$ ei!r z a cr[n1 a diadem1 or a coronet2 & ! matron adopt$ a fur-trimm$ cap4 ,italy 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury %[$ a decid$ t5d5cy to return to ! classic =m ( dress4 ,long robes fa%ion$ l ! old tunic & /ola fell 9 graceful folds r\nd ! figure to ! gr\nd2 ! sleeves 7 ( mod]ate wid?1 p]mitt+ ! "u-sleeves to be se5 fitt+ tightly to ! wri/s4 ,! dawn ( ! ,r5aissance br\ght "s *anges 9 co/ume1 notably 9 ! ov]-dress1 !n call$ a sim>re1 :i* fitt$ closely 9 ! bodice & outspread 9 a full tra9$ skirt4 ,?is sim>re 0 sometimes made op5 f neck to hem1 & held toge!r at ! top by a squ>e broo*2 & ! sleeves 7 ( two v>ieties1 ei!r q tight or else wid] & v long1 end+ 9 a po9t1 b inv>iably be>+ "s decorative bord]4 ,! girdle def9itely slipp$ to ! hips1 & ! description ( a ,flor5t9e dress runs3 ,a sim>re ( brocade fa/5$ ) small buttons on ei!r side1 ! back hang+ q /raight1 ! girdle be+ worn 9 front ( ! dress only4 ,v pretty mu/ h be5 ! cypriane1 a g[n ( ,fr5* orig9 :i* 0 worn ) a high belt & _h a triangul>-%ap$ op5+ l[ on ! bodice1 a veil cov]+ ! bosom1 & a delicate ruffle encircl+ ! neck2 ! puff$ sleeves & ! back ( ! dress 7 sla%$4 ,a semicircul> cloak 0 ?r[n ov] ! %\ld]s & fa/5$ 9 front1 & left op5 or button$ f ?roat to hem4 ,! m>ri$ wom5 *ose a sleeveless ov]-dress1 & a long r$ or blue cloak1 capaci\s & envelop+1 & ! wid[ wore ?is 9 black1 surm\nt$ by a long :ite veil4 ,caps1 veils1 & fillets f\nd equal fav\r 9 ! eyes ( ! ,italian1 ^: pretty hair 0 z frequ5tly se5 b\nd ) sat9 ribbons z ) gold or silv] paillettes1 or arrang$ spirally1 or conf9$ 9 a caul2 & ! horse%oe %ape ( head-dress common 9 ,engl& 0 also to be se5 9 ,italy1 :o borr[$ x f ,france1 :]e ! skirts 7 n[ gradually becom+ n>r[] & ! dresses button+ /raight d[n ! front1 ! skirt & bodice be+ cut 9 "o1 & ! sleeves inve/$ ) mu* div]sity1 be+ worn tight or loose1 button$ or hang+ op51 display+ 9 "s cases ! =e>m & 9 o!rs a close "u-sleeve4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,g]man ,,/ud5t ,,9 ,,! ,,f\rte5? ,,c5tury4 ,! sleeveless surcoat 0 v popul>1 ! upp] portion tap]+ to a small po9t ^u ! %\ld]s1 %[+ ! g[n worn b5ea?1 & ! skirts ( ^! surcoats 7 deck$ ) erm9e & emblazon$ ) ! family arms4 ,! art ( embroid]y 0 cultivat$ assidu\sly by ! ri*1 ^: leisur$ mom5ts 7 sp5t 9 ply+ ! ne$le & silk1 to accompli% devices :i* %\ld hon\r & grace _! attire4 ,veils ( :ite l95 enwrapp$ ! head1 & unb\nd hair 0 r>ely se5 except on "y girls4 ,a ri*ly embroid]$ cap t receiv$ "s att5tion 0 s %ap$ t x p>tly cov]$ ! *eeks1 & bel[ x 7 two e>-cages ( metallic tissue 9 plait$ design4 ,a v curi\s head-dress 9 ,france 0 compos$ ( a closely-fitt+ cap ) a jewell$ bord]1 surm\nt$ by a long flat piece ( mat]ial plac$ ov] ! =ehead & hang+ d[n beh9d1 ?is be+ elaborately trimm$ & jewell$1 & completely hid+ ! hair4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,qua9t ,,wimple4 ,x is writt5 to ! hon\r ( ,isabella ( ,bav>ia t %e enc\rag$ ! ladies ( h] ,c\rt 9 a great love = dress1 & %e w\ld seem to h made a /udy ( ! subject1 if "o judges f a picture ( h] rob$ 9 regal array1 ) a horn$ head-dress surm\nt$ by a cr[n1 an elaborate robe pr(usely adorn$ ) jewels1 a mantle bord]$ ) erm9e1 & a tra9 ( prodigal ext5t4 ,! surcoat receiv$ ! hon\r ( sleeves 9 ! latt] "p ( ! c5tury1 & ^! hung almo/ to ! hem ( ! skirt1 :ile ! cte h>die took unto itself ano!r %ape1 ! %\ld]s be+ broad]1 ! bodice cut l[1 & edg$ ) fur1 ) folds ( :ite silk to =m a coll>1 a %ort wai/ be+ simulat$ by ! we>+ ( ! girdle high4 ,! la/ tw5ty ye>s ( ! c5tury saw ! introduction ( high cov]*iefs1 mo/ly cresc5t-%ap$ or horn$1 "o ( ! =m] be+ contriv$ ( two he>t-%ap$ pieces ( silk ) roll$ edges1 ! spaces betwe5 ! two sides be+ occupi$ ) a veil ( clo?4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,head-,,dress ,,( ,,h5ry ,,iv4 ,h5ry ,,iv41 ) t5d] solicitude = 8 own com=t & beauty1 inv5t$ a clo? head-dress :i* enwrapp$ 8 bald pate & bore a gold device on "o side1 & a fr+e on ! hem4 ,a novel head-dress = a woman1 calculat$ to %[ bo? itself & ! hair at ! be/1 %[s plaits worn outside ! lawn cov]+1 z 9 ! picture4 ,?is mu/ h be5 mo/ attractive2 s too w\ld be a lawn head-dress :i* set outw>ds & ^u a frame at ! back1 :5ce x hung /raight across to =m a mo/ becom+ backgr\nd4 ,! orig9 ( ?is 0 ,g]man1 & its accompli%m5t 0 a little complicat$1 involv+ ! arrangem5t ( ! ord9>y b& ( l95 r\nd ! face1 :ile above 0 drap]y ( appliqu "w 9 :ite or :ite ( silv]4 ,! %ort veil :i* came above ?is aga9 0 kept 9 place by a jewell$ circlet1 ! clo? ar\nd ! ?roat & %\ld]s be+ cut 9 "o ) ! inn] b& ( ! wimple4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,head ,,drap]y ,,held ,,) ,,plait$ ,,hair4 ,among/ ! mo/ attractive descriptions t ,i h f\nd ( dress 9 ?is p]iod is "o ( a ,fr5*woman ^: hair 0 entw9$ ) black ribbon1 & ^: dress 0 ( :ite embroid]$ 9 silv]1 ) small sleeves ( r$ & :ite *eck bord]$ ) gold4 ,cambric ( a sort--n z we "k x to-day--mu/ h be5 indisp5sable1 = x enwrapp$ ! head1 & =m$ ! guimpe1 & _h ! privilege ( mak+ small ruffles4 ,a dress ( decid$ *>m 0 made ( brocade1 cut 9 "o piece to ! knees1 & !nce fl\nc$ ) erm9e to ! gr\nd4 ,! bodice 0 l[ to ! wai/1 & f ! wai/ to ! bu/ 0 fill$ 9 ) :ite cambric1 & an erm9e coll> 0 r\nd ! %\ld]s4 ,! sleeves 7 v tight to ! wri/s1 ) erm9e cuffs ext5d+ ov] ! h&s1 & f ! po9t$ head-dress fell a long veil ) embroid]$ bord]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,embroid]$ ,,gloves4 ,wom5 _h pl5ty ( *ance to indulge _! desire = v>iety 9 ! m9or accessories ( dress1 9 _! embroid]$ purses1 _! jewell$ girdles1 _! decorat$ bord]s1 _! guimpes & _! ornam5t$ gloves4 ,all ( ^! gave opportunity = ! display ( ! individual ta/e1 & x mu/ be reg>d$ some:at regretfully t !re 7 no fa%ion pap]s 9 t day1 or we :o come aft] w\ld n h be5 left s high & dry = detail4 ,/ill1 we may be grateful = ! writt5 record t aprons 7 fir/ se5 9 ?is p]iod1 & t !y 7 ti$ ) ribbons2 t wid[s 7 d5i$ ! privilege ( elaborate co/ume2 & t :ite g[ns 7 devot$ to home we>4 ,& s mu* may we accept ) cont5t1 rememb]+ ! entirely novel cte h>die ) gratitude z "o novelty 9 ! c5tury4 ,p]haps x w\ld be gre$y to dem& m4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,9 ,,! ,,fifte5? ,,c5tury ,extravagance to ! fanta/ic po9t pursu$ its outrage\s way 9 ! fifte5? c5tury2 ! dresses 7 tightly belt$ at ! wai/1 & trail$ long l5g?s ^u ! floor1 :ile ! flat coll>s ( velvet or fur po9t$ t[>ds ! front & 7 cut to display a squ>e /oma*]1 & ! sleeves indulg$ !mselves ) _m div]sions1 small ruffles appe>+ to f9i% ^? :i* 7 tight at ! wri/s4 ,! celebrat$1 nev]-to-be-=gott5 horn$ head-dresses /uff$ ) t[ made _! appe>ance 9 ,engl& 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,v41 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vi4 hav+ ! privilege ( welcom+ ^! 9 he>t-%ape2 & l>ge turbans 9 ,turki% =m f\nd fav\r ) ! wom5 dur+ ! great] "p ( ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv4 ,illu/ration3 ,,an ,,elaborate ,,head-,,dress ,,9 ,,! ,,reign ,,( ,,h5ry ,v4 ,! fa%ion ( bord]+ dresses & skirts ) deep fl\nces ( fur & velvet 0 introduc$ r late 9 ! c5tury1 & silk5 girdles ( conspicu\s wid? 7 held up by jewell$ clasps1 & innum]able gold *a9s fell r\nd ! neck4 ,! r\nd cap1 cov]$ by a k]*ief hang+ to ! gr\nd1 0 popul>1 & ! /eeple =m ( head-dress ) p5d5t drap]y tuck$ "u ! arm 0 a di/9ctive feature ( ! "t4 ,head-dress 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,v4 0 p]haps z exquisitely ridicul\s z x 0 ridicul\sly exquisite1 b1 :atev] its faults1 x possess$ ! supreme virtue ( be+ becom+4 ,:at face w\ld n look well "u ! influ5ce ( su* a head-dress z t sket*$ on ?is page8 ,picture x made s(t & :ite b5ea? a turban ( col\r1 & ) jewels flank+ x on ei!r side b5ea?4 ,! horn$ head-dress look$ its be/--& t x _h a be/ is no que/ionable po9t--9 jewell$ velvet1 :5 b5ea? x fell a long veil 9 graceful folds4 ,! picture on page #db %[s a head-dress accurately plann$ ^u a p]fectly fitt+ frame1 ) :ite at ! top & back1 & jewell$ velvet z an outl9e = ! e>-pieces1 :ile ! b& ( :ite across ! front is lawn1 aga9 trac$ ) a col\r4 ,! sug>-loaf head-dress 0 usually ornam5t$ ) a b& ( black velvet embroid]$ 9 gold4 ,illu/ration3 ,,elizabe? ,,( ,,woodville4 ,!re is a f9e record ( ,elizabe? ( ,woodville 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 h] hair pale yell[ 9 col\r1 arrang$ ) a small curl on ! =ehead1 & br\ght up "u a high cr[n1 ) l>ge clos$ ar*es :5ce x falls1 ! po9ts ( ! ar*es be+ f9i%$ ) fleurs-de-lys4 ,h] dress is ( gold brocad$ 9 blue1 & ! sleeves are tight-fitt+2 erm9e outl9es ! %\ld]s1 & a crimson sc>f does its picturesque duty z a girdle1 & a broad hem ( erm9e outl9es ! skirt1 :i* is v full & has an extremely long tra92 & b5ea? ! dress we are all[$ a peep ( a blue petticoat & po9t$ %oes4 ,sev]al ( ! ladies att5dant ^u all ?is elegance h ! privilege ( appe>+ ) h] 9 ! illum9ation1 9 high caps ) ! hair drawn ?r\gh ! top1 %ort-wai/$ g[ns1 & tra9s ) fur bord]s4 ,ano!r g[n :i* _h ! advantage ( s]v+ royalty 0 close-fitt+ & %ort-wai/$1 ) tight sleeves1 embroid]$ cuffs1 & a coll> :i* took almo/ ! =m ( a small cape1 held 9 front ) a squ>e broo* jewell$ 9 ! c5tre1 & be>+ ?ree p5dants4 ,a r[ ( pe>ls def9$ ! edge ( ! dcolletage1 a necklace ( gold encircl$ ! ?roat1 & ! flat1 close-fitt+ cap 0 embroid]$ 9 gold4 ,elizabe? ( ,woodville is repres5t$ on ! previ\s page 9 a close1 slightly-po9t$ coif made ( a trellis ( ribbon & jewell$ above ! cap ( black1 ! filmy :ite veil hang+ ov] ^! ) mu* grace2 & ! bodice ( h] velvet dress1 :i* is cut r\nd to %[ a f9e l95 *emisette1 be>s coll> & cuffs ( embroid]y4 ,illu/ration3 ,,v>ieties ,,( ,,! ,,h5n94 ,! h5n9 rea*$ its height ( popul>ity 9 e s5se ( ! ^w 9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,v4 ,briefly x may be describ$ z a lawn k]*ief /iff5$ ) canes or wires1 ^! k]*iefs be+ pla9 or diap]$ ) gold1 ! frame project+ outw>d f ! back ( ! head1 & b5ea? x ! hair is ga!r$ up into a caul ( gold or embroid]y4 ,! orig9al h5n9 0 a tall funnel-%ap$ tube 9 brocade work$ 9 beads & fix$ firmly on ! head1 & f ! top float$ a f9e veil4 ,! little h5n9 0 a %ort head-dress cov]$ by a veil :i* fell ov] ! %\ld]s4 ,! h5n9s--& y c see _m examples decorat+ ! col\r$ page--7 l>ge or small1 pla9 or decorat$1 z ! individual fancy might dictate1 & _! adoption 0 common alike to ,engl& & to ,france1 :]e !y af=d$ a complete *ange f _! pr$ecessors1 ! small bgu9s or hoods1 & %>$ fav\r ) ! two-horn$ head-dresses1 ) horns ab\t a y>d high4 ,! l95 = ! h5n9 0 /iff1 to help ! f9e wire or cane frames to d _! duty ) great] success2 & to acc5tuate fur!r _! importance !re 7 great w+s on ei!r side1 s widely set t ! pass+ ( a doorway 0 a difficulty4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,horn$ ,,head-,,dress4 ,prie/s & husb&s inveigh$ alike aga9/ ?is fa%ion1 & "o monk felt its absurdities s acutely t he rode ?r\gh ! prov9ces1 deplor+ ! excess ( ! h5n9 z ( equal gravity ) t ( gambl+ & ! ?r[+ ( dice4 ,he prea*$ ?is doctr9e s plausibly t he induc$ ! easily-ar\s$ populace to *ase 9 ! /reets ! wom5 :o 7 we>+ ! h5n91 & ev5 to spatt] !m ) mud or pelt !m ) /ones4 ,su* en?usiasm1 h[ev]1 l ! photographs ( ,hiawa?a1 fail$ completely2 & aft] ! dep>ture ( ! prophet1 h5n9s grew & ev] grew1 & !y 7 deck$ ) jewels & hung ) *a9s1 & all ! be/ obta9able prodigalities ( fa%ion 7 consecrat$ to _! hon\r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,head-,,dress ,( ,,jewell$ ,,velvet ,,& ,,lawn4 ,att5tion 0 giv51 n only to ! horn$ head-dress1 :i* develop$ into two high po9ts curl$ inw>d ) p5d5t veils f ! tops1 b also to ! turban1 made aft] ! fa%ion ( ^? worn 9 ! ,ea/4 ,x _h ?ick rolls ( silk or velvet r\nd ! head1 ! hair be+ pull$ up ! c5tre & worn hang+ d[n ! back1 a drap]y assi/+ 9 ! ,ori5tal effect4 ,! esc(fion--= :i*1 al?\gh x is said to h be5 introduc$ by ,engl&1 !re is no ,engli% ^w--is cresc5t-%ap$ l a turban2 & a cap :i* receiv$ "s patronage 0 he>t-%ap$1 made ( embroid]$ mat]ial deck$ ) a trellis-"w ( braid ornam5t$ ) beads1 ! wide b& 9 front be+ set ) preci\s /ones1 :i* aga9 took ! =m ( a he>t z !y re/$ ^u ! =ehead4 ,! wom5 ( ! middle classes wore clo? caps & b&s ( mat]ial twi/$ r\nd ! head1 ) w+s on ei!r side4 ,e>ly 9 ! fifte5? c5tury ! scollop$ sleeves 7 introduc$1 & ! dresses 7 cut 9 "o 9 front1 & sep>at$ at ! back ) a sort ( basque4 ,to ,france we owe ! h\ppel&e1 worn alike by m5 & wom51 & seem+ly obsess$ by ! virtue ( com=t4 ,x be>s close k9%ip to ! dress+-g[n ( to-day1 & _h at its be/ a battlem5t$ bord] outl9$ by "s contra/+ /uff or trimm+4 ,x develop$ v>i\s extravagances ( decorations & bread?1 b y may see x well %[n 9 its e>lie/ =m 9 ! picture on ?is page4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,h\ppel&e4 ,at ! end ( ! fifte5? c5tury ! dresses1 well suppli$ ) l>ge full sleeves1 7 inv>iably cut squ>e at ! neck1 & bore /oma*]s jewell$ or embroid]$1 & b5ea? ^! 7 buckles1 or belts or ri* girdles ) long p5dants1 l ! "o illu/rat$1 :i* is worn r\nd ! hips & fa/5$ 9 front ) ?ree clasps & tassels4 ,side by side ) ?is appe>s ! po9t$ %oe ( ! p]iod2 made 9 r$ patt]n$ ) :ite1 x has *>ms :i* are obtrusive if n conv9c+1 ?\gh !y s]v$ to inspire "s prea*] 9 ,france1 m viol5t ?an holy1 to d5\nce !m z an outrage aga9/ ! ,creator4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,girdle4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,po9t$ ,,%oe4 ,! fam\s ,agnes ,sorel _h consid]able influ5ce ov] ! fa%ions ( h] day1 & %e practis$ exagg]ation ) audacity3 h] h5n9 0 tall] ?an any o!r1 h] skirts 7 long]1 & h] bodices l[]2 & %e w\ld b& h] =ehead & encircle h] ?roat ) ! mo/ magnific5t jewels4 ,elizabe? ( ,york _h a fancy = veils ri*ly jewell$ at ! bord] & arrang$ to =m a hood & fall d[n ei!r side ( ! face1 ! hair be+ pla9ly p>t$ on h] =ehead4 ,! picture on ! opposite page %[s h] we>+ a full g[n ( silk brocade1 ) a bord] ( erm9e decorat+ ! hem ( ?is & ! sleeves1 & putt+ 9 its appe>ance aga9 /raight across ! bodice & d[n ! c5tre ( ! front4 ,on h] head hangs a /iff mitr$ head-dress1 ! inn] rim be+ outl9$ ) jewels1 & h] p5d5t veil rea*es ne>ly to ! wai/4 ,illu/ration3 ,,elizabe? ,,( ,,york4 ,n be+ cont5t ) ! weight ( brocades & silks !y _h to c>ry1 ! wom5 burd5$ !mselves ) canes ) h&les be>+ ! image ( a bird4 ,!y c>ri$ fans1 too1 & collect$ f ,spa9 p]fum$ gloves made ( kid or silk1 ) ! backs embroid]$ 9 gold or silv]2 ! glove1 h[ev]1 0 punctili\sly remov$ :5 ! h& 0 giv5 9 greet+4 ,france exhibit$ a nice s5se ( col\r1 & ! mo/ popul> comb9ation 0 a veil ( :ite tissue1 a girdle ( gre5 wr\ght ) gold1 & a glimpse ( violet "u-skirt bel[ a brocad$ dress set (f ) black %oes4 ,! cte h>die 0 improv$ by be+ cut op5 9 a po9t 9 front1 ) rev]s ^u ! %\ld]s1 & a lappet ( velvet or brocade 0 us$ to fill 9 ! op5+1 &1 turn+ back1 reveal$ "s delicate tissue ( gauze & lace4 ,! noble ladies ( ,g]many affect$ mu* simplicity1 adopt+ ?is attitude 9 contra/ to t ( ! burgh]s' wives & daught]s4 ,_! co/ume 0 n>r[ 9 cut1 ! close-fitt+ skirt wid5+ z x rea*$ ! gr\nd4 ,! bodices 7 cut l[ (f ! %\ld]s1 lac$ 9 front1 ) tightly-fitt+ sleeves t button$ ! :ole l5g?1 & 7 f9i%$ by cuffs ext5d+ ov] ! h&s4 ,! ov]-dress _h wide sleeves & a long tra9 lac$ bel[ ! wai/ beh9d1 ! fulness held at ! bu/ ) a girdle4 ,mantles 7 ( a semicircul> %ape1 ) a long tra9 fa/5+ to ! front ) a buckle1 or f9i%$ ) a turnov] coll> held 9 place ) ribbons on ! %\ld]s4 ,! %ort] mantle kn[n z ! tapp]t 0 op5 at ea* side1 & _h a l>ge up/&+ coll> & hood1 & m>ri$ wom5 affect$ a circul> cloak ga!r$ at ! neck by a cord & fall+ 9 volum9\s folds to ! hem4 ,"y girls & matrons braid$ _! hair1 or p>t$ x simply 9 ! c5tre1 & roll$ x 9 two portions b\nd ) ribbon or twi/$ fillets2 ^! rolls1 br\ght ov] ! e>s to =m a frame = ! face1 7 held 9 a gold net1 ) a jewell$ p5dant 9 ! c5tre4 ,a fav\rite cap _h a ?ickly ru*$ bord]1 & ano!r1 kn[n z ! ,burgundian1 _h a high conical cr[n ) a r\nd$ po9t1 & 0 worn ov] a k]*ief ) ! veil float+ beh9d4 ,gold b&s & cr[ns re/$ on ! hair1 a rectangul> k]*ief fold$ 9 two receiv+ "s att5tion4 ,%oes 7 made op5 ) po9ts1 & wood5 clogs & golo%es express$ ! ,teuton caution4 ,z ! c5tury drew to its close fur!r lic5se 0 visible4 ,high dress 0 ! exception1 all bodices be+ r\nd ) slight po9ts1 ! %\ld]s uncov]$1 & ! back cut d[n z l[ z ! wai/2 & sleeves exhibit$ mu* div]sity ( design1 be+ at times n>r[ & at o!rs full1 & !n aga9 fall+ f> bel[ ! h&s1 or rea*+ up to ! elb[1 ornam5t$ ) sla%+s4 ,ov]-dresses 7 lac$ at ! back1 & inv>iably ! op5+s 7 fill$ 9 ) ! *emise1 or a fold$ fi*u1 or an embroid]$ pla/ron4 ,m5 & wom5 alike wore wond]ful *emisettes ) wide bord]s embroid]$ ) silk1 or wr\ght ) pe>ls1 & fur 0 a decoration belov$ ( bo? sexes4 ,fur adorns ! %ort ov]-sleeve ( ! coat sket*$ on page #eb2 & ! we>]1 x w\ld seem1 _h inf9itely bett] =tune 9 ! selection ( 8 ve/ & s(t %irt ?an 9 8 mu%room hat1 :i*1 made ( clo? & /it*$1 c\ld n h fail$ to be at lea/ try+ to ! mo/ p]fect beauty4 ,tra9s ext5d$ !mselves :5 ! wai/s ( ! bodices grew %ort]1 & ! dresses 7 ga!r$ 9 front1 pleats fall+ f ! bu/ or j bel[ ! %ort wai/4 ,! girdles appe>$ j bel[ ! armpits1 & ! sleeves 7 s long t !y _h to be turn$ back f ! wri/s1 ! scollop$ bord] appe>+ on ^? :i* 7 wide & w+-%ap$4 ,9 ,france & ,engl& spl5d\r foll[$ ^u spl5d\r2 ev5 ! pray]-books did n escape ! g5]al craze = elaboration & decoration1 _! cov]s be+ emblazon$ ) jewels & silk5 embroid]y4 ,jewels glitt]$ r\nd e fair neck & on e fair head2 & all heads 7 fair1 assi/$ by art :5 nature d5i$ su* grace4 ,! hair & ! tra9 7 ! conspicu\s po9ts ( magnific5ce1 & fa%ion1 play+ ! game ( heads & tails1 all[$ !m bo? to w9 h] be/ att5tion4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,9 ,,! ,,sixte5? ,,c5tury ,! ,tudor p]iod br\ght an extraord9>y revolution 9 dress1 ! fir/ important *ange tak+ place 9 ! sleeves1 :i* 7 n[ ( diff]5t mat]ial & diff]5t col\r f ! g[n4 ,sev]al pairs ( sleeves w\ld be allott$ to ea* g[n1 & 7 necess>ily made deta*able1 :ile 9 %ape !y 7 full & puff$1 padd$ & quilt$ & sla%$ & fitt+ tightly2 & ! squ>e-neck$1 %ort-wai/$ /yle ( dress 0 punctili\s 9 a display ( a /oma*] & a full tra94 ,clo? ( gold 0 ! fav\rite fabric1 be+ us$ alike = decoration z = g>m5ts1 & inde$ gold ass]t$ itself on e ri* mat]ial1 & !re 0 a silv] taffeta embroid]$ 9 gold2 & a damask ( crimson or yell[ wr\ght ) gold (f]$ itself p]suasively = fur trimm+1 lynx & sable & m>t5 accept+ ! responsibility ) zeal4 ,! fair foot$ x bravely 9 l[ %oes adorn$ ) l>ge ribbon ,tudor roses1 :i* 7 also allott$ ! delicate duty ( ornam5t+ elaborate g>t]s4 ,! pla9] v>iety ( %oe 0 ( wood cov]$ ) velvet or lea!r1 /it*$ ) silk & fa/5$ ) buckles or rosettes2 & a wood5 %oe 9 vogue 0 kn[n z ! pant(fle1 & n unlike t *op9e worn 9 ,italy at ?is "t & lat]1 :5 x atta9$ ! p9nacle ( ! prepo/]\s4 ,?is %oe 01 h[ev]1 kn[n 9 ,engl& only 9 a modifi$ =m4 ,none ( ! fa%ions ( ! day c\ld tru?fully be call$ com=table4 ,com=t obvi\sly 0 bani%$ f consid]ation1 & ea* innovation dur+ ! sixte5? c5tury %[s its dem&s m & m disreg>d$4 ,! hoop appe>$1 & held ! be/ affections 9 its grasp ( iron1 wood1 or :alebone1 ! indisp5sable edicts aga9/ x foll[+ quickly ^u its popul>ity4 ,ri* & poor alike fell victims to its aggressive *>ms1 & alike insi/$ ^u its we>1 &1 on ! occasion ( h] m>riage ) ,pr9ce ,ar?ur ( ,wales1 ,ca!r9e ( ,m$ici wore ! dress ( ,spa9 & a mantilla bord]$ ) gold & preci\s /ones1 & h] skirt 0 di/5d$ by sev]al hoops4 ,! wives ( t m]ry polygami/ ,h5ry ,,viii4 7 sympa!tically atta*$ to beautiful clo!s1 & ,anne ,boleyn is cr$it$ ) we>+ a cap ( blue velvet trimm$ ) gold5 bells1 & a ve/ ( velvet />r$ ) silv]1 & ov] x a surcoat ( wat]$ silk l9$ ) m9iv]1 ) l>ge p5d5t sleeves2 blue velvet brodequ9s 7 on h] feet1 ) a diamond /> on ea* in/ep1 & above h] long curls 0 plac$ an aureole ( plait$ gold4 ,x is a well-kn[n fact t ,anne1 because ( "s slight de=mity ( ! h&1 held affectionately to ! *>ms ( ! hang+ sleeve aft] x _h be5 disc>d$ 9 fav\r ( ! full puff$ & sla%$ sleeve4 ,!re is an attractive picture ( h] by ,holbe91 ) ! hair drawn f h] =ehead 9 small curls1 & a plait hang+ f ! top ( ! head ov] "o e>1 ! cr[n be+ worn r f> back & kept 9 place by a jewell$ caul4 ,to ,spa9 hi/orians h grant$ ! laurel ( ! ruff1 :i* became fir/ popul> 9 ,engl& 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii42 & ,anne ,boleyn introduc$ lappets made ( velvet & adorn$ ) preci\s /ones1 ei!r po9t$ at ! hem or squ>e & broad4 ,dur+ ^? days ! l5g? ( ! g[n d5ot$ ! rank ( ! we>]1 c\ntesses & b>onesses & ladies ( l[] degree /amp+ _! e/ate ^u ! dim5sions ( _! tra94 ,embroid]y decorat$ ! g[ns & petticoats alike1 _m ( ! dresses be+ cut op5 9 front to display a sat9 kirtle & an apron embroid]$ 9 gold & _m col\rs4 ,! bodice ( ! dress sometimes diff]$ 9 col\r f ! skirt1 & ! sleeves w\ld mat* ! skirt2 & !re 0 mu* v>iety 9 head-dress1 ! velvet cap tassell$ & set ) jewels above a float+ veil be+ a popul> /yle4 ,b cauls1 coifs1 & ,fr5* hoods1 & ! high b&s 9 front1 7 9 evid5ce1 toge!r ) a :ite ?ree-corn]$ cap1 ! orig9al no d\bt ( ! ,m>ie ,/u>t cap ( succe$+ ye>s4 ,! m5 7 z prodigal z ! wom51 & sp>$ no exp5se or "t or ?\ght 9 _! pursuit ( ! sumptu\s & ! elegant2 _! %oes & g>t]s & hats glitt]$ ) gems1 & !y wore r+s & *a9s 9 pr(usion1 rais+ ! trades ( tailors & goldsmi?s & clo?-mak]s to supreme importance4 ,jack ( ,newbury1 a fam\s clo? m]*ant ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 is describ$ z appe>+ be=e t mon>* 9 a pla9 russet coat & a pair ( :ite k]sey slops1 ! /ock+s ( ! same piece be+ sewn to 8 slops4 ,slops 0 a t]m develop$ f slip1 & signifi$ any g>m5t easily adju/$1 & an example ( its use occurs 9 ,mu* ,ado ,ab\t ,no?+1 a phrase runn+ z1 a ,g]man f ! wai/ d[nw>d1 all slops2 h5ce may ! suspici\s glean t ! ,teuton habit ( co/ume 0 n ma9ly trim4 ,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,! ,,"t ,,( ,,h5ry ,,vii4 ,m5 yield$ to ! g5]al craze = an exp&$ hip1 we>+ great bree*es /uff$ ) hair or bran or wool1 & exhibit+ no less ?an fem99e en?usiasm 9 ! wid? ( _! ruffles4 ,_! hose1 ( diff]5t detail1 0 ei!r ( clo? or silk1 & blaz$ ) col\r1 be+ ornam5t$ ) gold or ?reads ( ,v5etian silv]1 ?\gh ! ,k+ himself pref]r$ clo? hose1 :i* also _h ! hon\r ( decorat+ ,que5 ,elizabe?1 until %e *anc$ to meet ) ! silk /ock+1 to :i* %e !reaft] clung ) t5acity4 ,jane ,seym\r's coronation dress 0 ( h] fai?less sp\se's fav\rite mat]ial1 clo? ( gold2 all 8 wives seem to h be5 oblig+ en\gh to yield to 8 fancy = ?is extravagance1 & ?is poor lady's *oice 0 decorat$ ) a rais$ design ( embroid]y & pe>ls1 & ! /oma*] b5ea? 0 ?ickly encru/$ ) jewels1 :ile h] surcoat 0 ( purple velvet bord]$ ) erm9e & embroid]$ ) gold1 & a jewell$ velvet caul 0 on h] head4 ,anne ( ,cleves endeav\r$ to popul>ise ! ,dut* fa%ion ( a g[n )\t a tra91 & %e 0 z mu* a failure 9 ?is z 9 h] o!r ambitions4 ,ca?>9e ,p>r1 ! la/ ( ! noble six1 _h a g[n ( clo? ( gold made ) a sleeve q tight at ! %\ld]1 bord]$ at ! elb[ ) fur1 & %[+ b5ea? a sla%$ & puff$ "u-sleeve1 f9i%$ by a small ruffle at ! wri/4 ,m>y inh]it$ h] fa!r's love ( spl5d\r & co/ly app>el1 & h] fav\rite head-dress 0 ( clo? ( gold1 & h] g[ns 7 g5]ally ( velvet trimm$ ) fur & jewell$4 ,elizabe? devot$ h]self to fa%ion 9 a frank1 :ole-he>t$ way t brook$ no half-measures1 & among/ h] t]rors ( dea? mu/ h be5 p>t+ ) h] g[ns1 = %e di$ possess$ ( no few] ?an ?ree ?\s& dresses4 ,:at a h>ve/ = ! ladies-9-wait+ or ! deal]s ( ! day to ga!r6 ,h] crimson locks %e pil$ high up 9 curls & puffs1 surm\nt$ by cr[ns ( jewels1 & h] sleeves & hoop$ skirts 7 padd$ into diamond design trac$ ) embroid]y1 & e po9t w\ld hold a p5d5t jewel4 ,%e %[$ no desire to a*ieve grace or elegance bel[ ! wai/2 no?+ m entirely unbecom+ to ! fem99e figure c be imag9$ ?an ! tight1 h>d1 flat1 n>r[ bodice t]m9at+ 9 a po9t at ! front1 cut (f at ! wai/ on ! hips1 above ! mon/r\sly di/5d$ petticoat4 ,! ov]-"p ( ! dress & ! skirt b5ea? x 7 bon$ & wir$1 & tight lac+ rul$ 9 an injuri\s degree1 ?\gh ! enorm\s sleeves1 ruffles1 & skirts might well h accord$ su* an effect ( slimness z to r5d] /r+5t measures unnecess>y4 ,dress 0 a magnific5t affair altoge!r2 velvet & taffeta & f9e sc>let clo? 7 us$1 lace play$ its "p bravely1 & silk5 sc>ves fr+$ ) gold & silv] 7 ?r[n ov] ! %\ld]s1 ) deep capes ( sat9 or velvet edg$ ) lace4 ,e %ape & l5g? ( g>m5t obta9$1 & ! only extravagance f :i* dress did n suff] 0 9 ! dcolletage1 :i* 0 n>r[ & /raight & ( dim5sions em95tly dec5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,trio ,,( ,,ruffs4 ,illu/ration3 ,,que5 ,,elizabe? ,,9 ,,full ,,dress4 ,elizabe? introduc$ ! :alebone corset1 & h]s might well h be5 call$ ! wire & :alebone age1 = ! influ5ce ( ^! 0 ne$$ = ! petticoats1 ! g[ns & /ays1 & x _h a consid]able %>e 9 ! good conduct ( ! ruffles :i* ext5d$ "s n9e in*es f ! neck4 ,9 ,france ! ruffles 7 s enorm\s t !y h>dly all[$ _! we>]s to turn _! heads at all1 & c\rti]s :o affect$ !m 7 provid$ ) long-h&l$ spoons to enable !m to take _! s\p 9 com=t4 ,^! huge ruffs 7 trimm$ ) lace outl9$ ) wire ?reads to ensure suffici5t /iffness1 a dem& creat+ ! supply ( />*1 :i* made its appe>ance 9 ?is c5tury1 be+ introduc$ by ! wife ( ,elizabe?'s coa*man1 :o e/abli%$ h]self z ,lady ,high ,laundress ( ! ,c\rt1 & made at once a compet5ce & a reputation4 ,ruffs 7 ( yell[ z well z :ite1 & yell[ too 7 "s ( ! ext5sive lace coll>s jewell$ & embroid]$ 9 gold1 :i* ) wir$ edges outl9$ ! %\ld]s ( all dresses worn on /ate occasions4 ,p9s & ribbons 7 fir/ br\ght into use 9 ! reign ( ,elizabe?1 & really to h] int]e/ 9 ! subject ( fa%ion we owe mu*4 ,silk /ock+s among/ o!r ?+s1 su* z cosmetics1 face wa%es & p]fumes1 & embroid]$ & sc5t$ gloves1 & fans made ( o/ri* or peacock fea!rs ) gold & silv] h&les1 7 adopt$ by ! m5 z well z by ! wom54 ,( ! _m head-dresses fav\r$ by ,elizabe? "o resembl$ a cu%ion1 ornam5t$ ) jewels2 ano!r1 kn[n z a %ip-tire1 left ! neck & %\ld]s b>e2 & ano!r1 dubb$ ! tire valiant1 0 made ( _m k]*iefs1 s dispos$ z to all[ only ! nose1 eyes1 & m\? to be visible4 ,9 ! e>ly days ( ! sixte5? c5tury dress 9 ,france 0 some:at simple1 b ab\t #aeej ta/es alt]$ & e k9d ( trimm+ 0 eag]ly s\ght & f\nd1 & ! lappets1 :i* became a popul> addition to ! head-dress1 display$ jewell$ bord]s or gold5 tassels 9 ! %ape ( a fl[]4 ,! hair fell 9 curls ab\t ! face & on ! neck1 & 9 a long description :i* we h f ,rabelais1 ( a dress ( ! p]iod 9 ,p>is1 !re is m5tion ( a beautiful b\quet ( fea!rs1 a pana*e1 :i* mat*$ ! muff1 & 0 ?ickly spangl$ ) gold4 ,to him also we owe an excell5t acc\nt ( crimson /ock+s ) ! edges embroid]$ ?ree in*es above ! knee1 & ( g>t]s ( elaborate detail to hold ^!1 & ( %oes & slipp]s ( crimson or violet velvet to complete !m4 ,attire consi/$ ( a *emise worn b5ea? a corset ( silk camlet1 a hood ( silk1 & above ?is a cotte 9 silv] tissue embroid]$ 9 gold4 ,9 summ] ! ,p>isian wore1 in/ead ( a dress1 wraps made 9 a loose burn\s /yle ( velvet seam$ ) pe>ls1 & no co/ume 0 complete )\t its ros>y1 its girdle1 jewell$ necklaces & bracelets4 ,! mo/ popul> head-dress 0 a velvet hood ) a hang+ curta91 & ! turban w\nd its graceful way above a network ( pe>ls or preci\s /ones4 ,muffs receiv$ mu* att5tion & elaboration1 fur & lace & jewels alike be+ d$icat$ to _! s]vice1 & 9 _! dep?s w\ld ne/le ! dog or monkey or m>moset ^: mi/ress c\nt$ su* a pet 9 h] arm\ry ( attractions4 ,a description ( a robe montante1 :i* appe>s to h be5 comp>atively a nglig1 n p]mitt$ ! hon\r ( att5d+ ,c\rt functions1 %[s x cut squ>e 9 ! neck1 ) a coll> ( f9e cambric f9i%$ ) a small ruff1 ! sleeves1 puff$ & sla%$ & fitt+ tightly to ! wri/s1 be+ ( a diff]5t mat]ial f ! dress2 & 9 ,france1 z 9 ,engl&1 rank det]m9$ ! l5g? ( ! tra91 que5s burd5+ !mselves ) no less ?an six y>ds4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,*emisette4 ,illu/ration3 ,,an ,,italian ,,lady4 ,9 ! e>ly days ( ?is c5tury turban head-dresses 7 popul> 9 ,italy1 & sla%$ & puff$ sleeves 7 trimm$ ) ribbon4 ,x is int]e/+ to note t ! wom5 ( ,g5oa 7 b\nd by law to we> a dress ( pla9 clo?1 b t _! "u-g>m5ts 7 ( ! ri*e/ silks1 & %oes & hose 7 co/ly details4 ,! sket* on page #ei %[s an ,italian lady "u attractive conditions1 ) a /oma*] & coll> trac$ ) a rais$ design ( gold outl9$ ) pe>ls1 & puff$ sleeves ti$ ) ribbons tagg$ ) metal2 &1 cov]+ h] hair1 is a close coif edg$ ) pe>ls4 ,italian also are ! two heads illu/rat$1 lace & jewels & ribbons be+ us$ = _! adornm5t4 ,! ,italian g5tleman we>s a full-cr[n$ cap ( velvet1 & a clo? coat %[+ sla%+s & coll> ( velvet1 ! lawn frill inside ! coll> be+ repeat$ at ! wri/s ( ! sleeves1 ^: detail ( sla%+ may well be left to ! imag9ation4 ,illu/ration3 ,,two ,,italian ,,coiffures4 ,illu/ration3 ,,an ,,italian ,,g5tleman4 ,spa9 0 fai?ful to ! horn$ head-dress late into ! sixte5? c5tury2 & talk+ ( ,spa91 ,i am rem9d$ ( t illu/ration opposite1 :]e a sixte5?-c5tury ,spani>d is exploit+ an unusual =m ( trunk1 9 cut-out clo?1 %[+ :ite b5ea?1 & button$ ) /raps on to ! hose4 ,8 :ite %irt is sla%$1 & f ! d\ble coll> falls a tassel2 tassels are p5d5t f ! drap]y ( ! long gold-bord]$ cloak1 & a gold net appe>s b5ea? ! *>act]i/ic cap ( velvet4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,spani>d ,,9 ,,! ,,sixte5? ,,c5tury4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,%\ld]-,,jacket4 ,! picture on page #fd ( ,maximilian ( fame %[s him brave 9 up/&+ felt hat1 encircl$ ) flaunt+ fea!rs1 & b5ea? ?is a /rip$ sc>f is b\nd r\nd 8 head1 & ! mon/r\s sleeves h sla%+s ( col\r4 ,tassels dangle f ! sc>f b5ea? ! *9 & ov] ei!r e>1 & bold b[s ass]t !mselves above "o knee1 & claim _! "r to hold ! folds ( 8 sa% 9 front4 ,a sixte5?-c5tury sacque coat 9 its orig9al s9--or grace--appe>s illu/rat$ on ! left1 ) sleeves sla%$ & ! armholes be>+ padd$ rolls on ! top4 ,! inn] ve/ has a high coll> bon$ to /& out at ! back1 & ! helmet-%ap$ hat is trimm$ ) b&s ( braid button$ ) gold1 ) two fea!rs wav+ at "o side4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,cape ,,) ,,button$ ,,sleeve4 ,ano!r edition ( ! helmet-%ap$ hat1 f> less successful1 h[ev]1 9 ! int]e/s ( beauty1 decorates ! "r-h& figure1 :i* be>s r\nd ! neck a wond]ful ruff1 & gives a capital idea ( a /range =m ( cape button$ d[n ! sleeve1 ga!r$ slightly 9 ! process1 & bord]$ ) a b& ( pla9 col\r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,maximilian4 ,fair & sweet looks ! maid5 on page #eh b5ea? ! kilt$ frill ( h] cap1 & h] little bodice %[s h] *emisette ( :ite lawn ti$ 9 front ) small b[s4 ,i w ruffle x ) ! be/ ( !m 0 di/9ctly ! det]m9ation ( ! valiant que5 :o smiles ^u y on page #ef4 ,lace =ms h] huge coll> & h] p5d5t lappets1 & tightly r\nd h] ?roat sits a lace ruffle2 an audaci\s fea!r /&s rampant on top ( h] cr[n1 & b5ea? ?is is a cap bord]$ ) jewels1 curv$ at "o side to all[ a good view ( h] curl$ head1 :]e ! flat cap ( jewels holds a gold5 p5dant 9 ! c5tre ( h] =ehead4 ,f> m demure are ! ruffle & cap :i* appe> on page #ee b5ea? ! closely-hood$ mantle1 & sev]ity m>ks ! net & lace ( ! dame ^: hair is entw9$ ) pe>ls2 & a typical ,m$ici coll> ( lace is elaborately wir$ to =m a frame to ! fair head1 ^u :i* jewels & fea!rs alike disport !mselves4 ,9 ?is c5tury fa%ion 0 play+ ! woman :o (t5 v>ies1 & ,la ,bruyre 9 review+ ! situation says3 ,a fa%ion has no soon] supplant$ "s o!r fa%ion ?an its place is tak5 by a new "o1 :i* 9 turn makes way = ! next1 & s on2 su* is ! feebl5ess ( our "*4 ,:ile ^! *anges are tak+ place a c5tury has roll$ away1 relegat+ all ?is f9]y to ! dom9ion ( ! pa/4 ,& writ+ 9 ! tw5tie? c5tury1 ,i c see "s satisfaction 9 t4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,9 ,,! ,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury ,famili>ity has br$ respect1 ev5 affection1 = ! typical co/ume ( ,*>les ,i4's reign1 & t un=tunate mon>* himself1 depict$ by ,van ,dyck 9 sombre coat & lace coll>1 is among/ ! de> intimacies ( our daily life4 ,sir ,pet] ,lely1 :o foll[$ on ! foot/eps ( ,van ,dyck1 left _m modi% records ( 8 "t1 & ?\gh he has be5 rat$ = dress+ 8 nymphs 9 inappropriate extravagances ( fr+es & embroid]y1 he und\bt$ly clo!d lovely woman ) an excell5t fantasy1 be/[+ height & grace by ! l5g? & simple disposition ( 8 drap]y4 ,mign>d1 ! ,fr5* arti/1 also wrote a page 9 fa%ion's hi/ory 9 8 pa9t+s ( ! ,c\rt ladies z ,madonnas2 cov]+ ! vanities ( ! s9n] ) ! mantle ( ! sa9t1 he 0 mu* s\ght aft] = 8 pa9s4 ,! ma9 features ( fem99e co/ume 9 ,*>les ,i4's reign may be realis$ 9 recall+ ! dresses :i* h s (t5 appe>$ to delight u 9 ! v>i\s pres5tations ( /age plays ( 8 p]iod2 ! bodice is tight1 ! basque squ>e & tabb$1 & r\nd ! wai/ are a few folds ( silk fa/5$ into a rosette 9 ! front2 ! lace coll> falls f ! neck to ! %\ld]s 9 deep po9ts1 & ! r+let$ hair be>s a ribbon rosette1 or is surm\nt$ by a plum$ hat4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,fea!r ,,& ,a ,,*ick5-,,sk9 ,,fan4 ,h5rietta1 ,que5 ( ,*>les ,i41 is accr$it$ ) ! introduction ( female lab\r = clo?+ ! out] woman1 & f h] day mantle-mak+ rank$ among female occupations4 ,b ! tailor /ill rul$ supreme1 & ?\gh ! sex ( ! mill9] 0 ! m sympa!tic1 x 0 left to ! next c5tury to popul>ise fem99e s]vices4 ,! f>?+ale ext5d$ its circumf]5ce 9 ! reign ( ,james ,i41 :5 mu* ef=t 0 tak5 to suppress x1 = ! ,k+ decl>$ x occupi$ m room at 8 c\rt ?an he himself4 ,! ruff fl\ri%$1 b less obtrusively ?an 9 ! prec$+ reigns1 & 9 its place 0 adopt$ :at 0 kn[n z a fall1 a loose b& ov]hang+ ! top ( a wide coll> />*$ & frill$ at ! base--a fancy "s m]ry writ] ( ! p]iod not$ ) ! epigram3 ,a "q 'tis :y wom5 we> a fall8 ,! tru? on't is1 to pride !y're giv5 all1 ,& pride1 ! prov]b says1 w h a fall4 ,) ! f>?+ale 7 worn long sleeves1 lace coifs1 & flut$ basques1 & /oma*]s2 & lat] ! long sleeves 7 replac$ by ^? rea*+ ! elb[1 made 9 puffs ti$ ) b[s or tightly fitt+ & bord]$ ) frills4 ,b5ea? ! pani] ( ! full skirt1 :i* 0 trimm$ ) _m b&s ( gold & embroid]y1 appe>$ a frill$ apron1 & ! bodices 7 high at ! back1 & cut squ>e 9 front1 & ov] ! %\ld]s 0 worn a sc>f4 ,muffs 7 indisp5sable1 & heads 7 decorat$ 9 mon/r\s disproportion4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,full ,,apron4 ,! k+s' fav\rites 9 ,france influ5c$ dress by _! caprices1 :i* made to "s ext5t = beauty1 n conspicu\sly evid5t :5 ! fontanges head-decoration 0 9 vogue4 ,?is 0 a polyglot erection :i* ow$ its bir? to ! fact t ! fam\s beauty1 los+ h] hat "o day 9 ! hunt+-field1 ti$ h] hair ) h] g>t]4 ,! fontanges ext5d$ its glories to a framework ( wire half a y>d 9 height1 :i* 0 divid$ into sev]al ti]s1 ea* be+ cov]$ ) a diff]5t mat]ial2 ribbon1 *5ille1 pe>ls1 fl[]s1 & musl9 7 all br\ght into s]vice1 & b5ea? ^! a clu/] ( curls fell on ! =ehead4 ,ea* ti] might take a diff]5t "n1 & among/ ^!1 duke1 cabbage1 cat1 organ-pipe1 & m\se 7 *os5 ) z mu* rhyme z reason4 ,b ! *ri/5+ ( fa%ions 0 a common habit1 & :5 ,p>is 0 r$uc$ to mis]y by ! ,ligue1 & depression 0 writt5 l>ge ^u ! dress1 :i*1 cut squ>e & heavy 9 /yle1 bore ab\t x a sugge/iv5ess ( ar*itecture1 col\rs 7 di/+ui%$ by su* qua9t names z ,dy+ ,monkey1 ,! ,sick ,spani>d1 etc4 ,l ! girl 9 "s comic op]a1 ,i wond] :y8 ,mlle4 de ,n9on & ,mesdames de ,montespan & de ,ma9t5on ea* inspir$ ! names ( a coiffure1 a cr[n1 & a cap1 ! la/ lady giv+ its title to a head-dress 9 ! =m ( a sc>f entw9+ a helmet4 ,! battle ( ,/e9kirk /ood sponsor to a cravat & to a ?ree-corn]$ fi*u trimm$ ) gold & silv] fr+es2 & ! ,n9on coiffure 0 p>t$ 9 ! front & fl[$ 9 curls at ei!r side1 ! back be+ held by a ribbon4 ,no su* di/9ction 0 ga9$ by ! ,engli% mi/resses & maids ( hon\r1 ^: names & escapades 7 legion2 nor did !y seek mu* individuality 9 _! clo!s1 confid5t t ! fa%ions prevail+ 7 suffici5t to excite ! envy ( ! "o sex & ! admiration ( ! o!r2 yet ,lady ,ca/lema9e1 ,miss ,hamilton1 ,miss ,w>me/re1 ,miss ,j5n+s1 ,miss ,temple1 ,miss ,price1 ,miss ,/ew>t1 & all ! re/ ( ! m]ry gang1 7 slaves ( ! mirror1 & ! joys ( ! masqu]ade 7 high 9 _! fav\r1 & = ?is no co/ume 0 too extravagantly absurd or too absurdly extravagant to obta9 _! satisfaction4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,lace ,,commode4 ,! di/+ui%+ feature ( fa%ion 0 ! lace commode1 :i* prevail$ ubiquit\sly2 its simple/ *>ms are easily realis$ by ! pictures on ^! pages1 :]e1 too1 are evid5t examples ( ! *op9e & ! clogs1 ^: pas de fasc9ation 7 execut$ "u su* disadvantages4 ,high heels 7 conspicu\s ev]y:]e1 b x 0 left to ,italy to h ! hon\r ( popul>is+ ! mo/ ridicul\s fa%ion ( ! *op9es or /ilt$ clogs1 :i* ass]t$ !mselves at diff]5t heights1 mo/ly outrage\s1 b5ea? a cov]+ ( gauff]$ lea!r1 a commodity :i* looks l ! mod]n pok]-"w4 ,! idea ( ! *op9es 0 import$ f ,turkey to ,italy & !nce to ,engl&1 :]e1 h[ev]1 x is well to m5tion1 x receiv$ b ! scantie/ consid]ation4 ,! height ( ! *op9es s]v$ to indicate rank1 & "s 7 ( su* mon/r\s inconv5i5ce t !y necessitat$ _! we>] be+ support$ on ei!r side :ile %e walk$4 ,e conceivable device 0 s\ght = ! decoration ( ! %oes1 & a fr5zy ( extravagance broke out 9 buckles ( gold1 silv]1 pa/e1 & diamonds4 ,illu/ration3 ,,clogs ,,& ,,*op9es4 ,*>les ,,ii41 f long resid5ce 9 ,france1 _h mu* sympa?y ) fa%ion1 :i* 0 belov$ ( m5 & wom51 :o patronis$ ! lace coll>1 ! muff1 ! fanciful buttons1 & fea!rs ) equal en?usiasm4 ,! sexes1 too1 %>$ a love = curls & ! hats ( broad brims1 ^: flopp+ habits prov$ s inconv5i5t t !y 7 turn$ up fir/ at "o side & !n at ! o!r1 & la/ly at ! back1 :5 !y develop$ into ! well-lov$ cock$ hat4 ,hat-b&s 7 prom95tly important1 made ei!r ( cord 9 silv] or gold or silk1 & glorifi$ by ! addition ( jewels = ! gay & witty ,duke ( ,buck+ham1 :o *ang$ 8 love z (t5 z 8 coat1 & %[$ a prodigal appreciation ( ! arts ( gallantry & co/ume4 ,he l$ _m ( ! fa%ions = m51 & add$ to ^! a conspicu\s numb] ( ribbons1 buckles1 & cravats4 ,he sp>$ 8 fri5ds nei!r 8 wit nor 8 money1 & ,dryd5 epitomis$ 8 fall3 ,he _h 8 je/1 :ile !y _h 8 e/ate4 ,two manufactures :i* 7 accord$ prom95t att5tion 9 ^! times 7 ! l95 & button manufactures1 ! =m] be+ made f ! y>n obta9$ 9 ,irel&1 :ile = ! latt]1 inspiration came f v>i\s p>ts ( ! ,cont95t4 ,/eel1 brass & copp]1 & jet 7 us$ to make ^! buttons1 & _! value is quot$ f #c;d4 to #adj gu9eas p] gross4 ,fairholt1 writ+ on ! subject1 says3 ,buttons 7 made sometimes l a picture1 ! back d>k1 ^u :i*1 9 v>i\s degrees ( relief1 7 plac$ 9 ivory or bone1 figures & fl[]s4 ,o!rs %[$ elegant patt]ns 9 :ite ^u gilt1 & _m mo/ ta/eful appe>$ on ,c\rt suits1 ^! be+ made ( "m-(-pe>l or ivory1 ! c5tre embelli%$ ) patt]ns 9 gilt4 ,musl9 came g5]ally into use "u su* flimsy conditions t x 0 describ$ by "s writ] z co/+ "s #cjs4 p] y>d1 & be+ b ! %ad[ ( a commodity :5 procur$4 ,india 0 ! happy hunt+-gr\nd = musl9s till ,fl&]s & ,g]many took up its cause &1 9 ! eighte5? c5tury1 ,bolton & ,glasg[ grant$ x special att5tion4 ,elegance *>act]is$ _m ( ! prevail+ modes1 :i* enc\rag$ a conspicu\s simplicity1 :5 ! sup]abundance ( jewell]y & mo/ elaborate trimm+s decreas$ to "s ext5t1 & a simple /r+ ( pe>ls 0 worn r\nd ! neck1 & ! /udi$ nglig became ! highe/ expression ( coquetry4 ,! hair 0 curl$ into r+lets1 & amid/ ^! ne/l$ a s+le rose or a *aplet ( pe>ls2 & at ! sides x 0 slightly puff$ ov] ! e>s1 ) "s support ( pad or wire to secure its righte\s be>+4 ,wom5 ( ! l[] classes wore musl9 caps ) ribbons twi/$ r\nd !m1 b :at lovely hats 7 obta9able by ! weal?y6 ,above ! long r+lets huge plumes wav$ ov] a hat ( /raw1 or ! velvet cap w\ld be cov]$ ) fea!rs4 ,hair-dress+ 0 a f9e art1 & _m 7 ! /yles 9 :i* ! r+lets 7 treat$2 !y w\ld be cut to graduat$ l5g?s1 %ort 9 front & long at ! back1 or w\ld only obta9 at ea* side ( ! face & r\nd ! neck1 ! ma9 portion ( hair be+ drawn up on ! top2 or ! hair 0 cut r %ort1 & curl$ ov] ! head1 :ile black ribbons & pe>ls decorat$ x4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,mob-,,cap4 ,! cultivation ( beauty 0 e>ne/ & intellig5t1 & all ladies ( high degree own$ among/ _! ret9ue />*]s & bru%]s1 & ! position ( pat*es _h a political significance accord+ to ! op9ions ( ! fair pat*$4 ,! pat*1 by ! way1 0 br\ght into fame ab\t #afee2 ?\gh1 ow+ its fir/ exi/5ce to ! times ( ! ,romans1 x _c consci5ti\sly claim ?is to be ! date ( its bir?4 ,! h\se coats & g[ns & petticoats 7 quilt$1 & be+ made ( silk f ,japan1 ,*9a1 & ,p]sia & trimm$ ) ,flemi% lace1 may be freely grant$ a cosmopolitan sympa?y4 ,an attractive description ( a dress ( ?is "t tells ( a musk-col\r$ silk %ot ) silv]1 ) trails ( silv] fl[]s1 trimm$ ) :ite bone lace1 ^: importation f =eign l&s excit$ ! displeasure ( ,*>les ,,ii4 ,lace 0 a triumphant feature1 be+ indisp5sable = ! commodes1 ! frill$ cravats1 & ! coll>s4 ,x 0 useful alike to m5 & wom51 & beautiful specim5s ( lace 7 enri*$ ) gold & silv] "u ! auspices ( ,v5ice & ,spa94 ,maz>9 _h1 9 endeav\r+ to /ay ! popul> gre$ = lace1 caus$ a small social revolution1 & ! ,fr5* b\ght lace f ,engl&4 ,colb]t 0 wis] 9 8 g5]ation1 = he set up a factory at ,al5on1 & ,brussels & ,me*l9 devot$ !mselves assidu\sly & mo/ successfully to lace4 ,among/ ! va9 ef=ts ( an e>li] p]iod 9 ,france 0 "o to kill fa%ion1 ^: reckless prodigality _h be5 vot$ insupportable1 & l to br+ ru9 to ! p4 ,a contempor>y pr9t %[s ! fun]al ( fa%ion1 ! design be+ ( fa%ion l$ by f\r wom5 & foll[$ by a cr[d ( workpeople1 :ile a s>cophagus 9 ! backgr\nd be>s ! foll[+ epitaph3-- ,"h lies "u ?is picture1 = hav+ des]v$ x1 ,fa%ion1 :i* caus$ s mu* madness 9 ,france4 ,dea? has put sup]fluity to dea?1 ,& w soon revive abundance4 ,b ,l\is ,,xiv4 0 s appreciative ( ! *>ms ( co/ume t he w\ld di/ribute all mat]ials1 silks & sat9s & brocades1 to 8 c\rti]s1 & ex]cise "s jurisdiction ov] ! way ^! 7 to be made4 ,pa9t+ on silk & sat9 0 among/ ! novelties ( 8 reign1 b embroid]y /ill held ! affections ( ! prodigal1 & at a fte at ,vaux1 ,mlle4 de la ,vallire is record$ to h worn a g[n ( :ite ) gold5 />s & leaves 9 ,p]sian /it*1 & a blue sa% ti$ 9 a l>ge knot ^u h] bosom1 :ile h] fair wav+ hair1 entw9$ ) fl[]s & pe>ls1 fell 9 pr(usion ab\t h] neck & %\ld]s1 & h] gloves 7 ( cream-col\r$ lace4 ,a gold dress embroid]$ ) gold is also includ$ 9 ! *ronicles1 & !re 7 d\ble bord]s ( gold & silv] to _m ( ! "u-skirts1 :i* 7 made ( silk or sat9 ) a long tra9 :i* 0 c>ri$ ov] ! left arm4 ,bodices 7 trimm$ ) galon1 ribbon1 & lace1 & ,madame de ,svign writes ( ! transp>5t g[n1 ^: desc5dant lives to-day 9 our lace & jet frocks ov] tissue4 ,illu/ration3 ,,glove ,,) ,,jewell$ ,,gauntlet4 ,! ,du*ess ( ,b\rgogne %[$ h] nice ta/e 9 a g[n ( silv] tissue ) gold fl[]s outl9$ ) orange & gre51 & aga9 9 a grey damask bord]$ ) silv]2 & ! same record tells ( a mantilla ( gold ,spani% po9t lace1 & ( a coat & skirt ( clo? ( silv] lac$ ) silv]1 & worn ) diamonds & rubies4 ,all w]ry capital1 z ,sam ,well] might h obs]v$1 _h he only he>d ( !m4 ,among/ ! desirable & ! desir$ 0 a blue camlet wai/coat embroid]$ & fr+$ ) silv]4 ,spani% broadclo? ( ! v f9e/ description 0 d$icat$ to wai/coats & to ! hunt+ & rid+ co/umes :i* 7 z mu* mascul9e z fem99e1 & ma9ly picturesque1 ) small rapi]s to emphasise ! manly tone4 ,all hats 7 fea!r$1 & ! cravats frill$1 a /ate ( affairs :i* excit$ comm5t f t irrepressible critic ,pepys1 :o grant$ x small admiration :5 he wrote3 ,walk+ 9 ! gall]ies at ,:ite ,hall ,i f9d ! ladies ( hon\r dress$ 9 _! rid+ g>bs ) coats & d\blets & deep skirts1 j = all ! _w l m9e1 & button$ _! d\blets up to ! brea/1 ) p]iwigs & hats1 s t only = a long petticoat dragg+ "u _! m5's coats nobody c\ld take !m = wom5 9 any po9t :atev]4 ,x 0 an odd sight1 & a sight :i* did n please me4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,rid+ ,,co/ume4 ,b ,pepys1 9 8 immortal di>y1 did n pay prop] respect to fa%ion4 ,he comm5t$ on ! clo!s ( ! ladies1 x is true1 b he %[$ a lam5table vagu5ess1 if n c>eless indiff]5ce1 ab\t _! details4 ,d\btless 8 notes on dress 7 q satisfy+ to 8 mascul9e m9d1 b ,i f9d !m practically useless 9 assuag+ ! deepe/ emotions ( fem99e curiosity4 ,h[ev]1 ,i "k f him & o!r s\rces t ,nell ,gwynn1 ! c>eless slatt]n1 wore a c>t-:eel hat :5 deliv]+ a prologue 9 a play1 & fur!rmore t %e look$ pretty on "o occasion :5 ,pepys pass$ h] z %e /ood at h] lodg+ door 9 smock-sleeves & a bodice1 :atev] su* description might please to mean4 ,col\rs1 %apes1 & mat]ials ?is inimitable gossip ignor$ z unimportant2 yet x may be writt5 d[n to 8 cr$it t he confess$ he 0 mov$ :5 he saw ,lady ,ca/lema9e's smocks & l95 petticoats hang+ out to dry 9 ! ,privy g>d5 at ,:ite ,hall1 lac$ ) ! ri*e/ lace at ! bottom :i* ev] he saw1 & he v[s1 !y did me good to look at !m2 & s mu* may we c\nt = grace1 ev5 ?\gh ,i sigh to ?9k ( ! numb] ( tucks & gaug+s he fail$ to m5tion4 ,x is to be hop$ t1 aft] t pa9ful int]view ) ! rid+ g>b ( ! ladies at ,:ite ,hall1 he turn$ ! o!r way & w5t back to ! ,privy g>d5 & 8 joyful contemplation ( ,lady ,ca/lema9e's "u-we>4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,9 ,,! ,,eighte5? ,,c5tury ,m>ie ,/u>t %>es ) ,madame de ,pompad\r ! hon\r ( /&+ godmo!r to fa%ions :i* w be kn[n ?r\gh ! ages by _! names4 ,! =m] luckless lady w ev] be associat$ ) t coif :i* is po9t$ 9 ! front1 & curves at ei!r side1 :ile ! latt] /&s et]nal sponsor to ! roll$ coiffure :i* turns back f ! face ov] a high pad4 ,!re may p]haps be o!r glories bett] wor? atta9m5t1 b nobody respectfully imbu$ ) ! importance ( dress c v5ture to ass]t t ^! ladies liv$ 9 va94 ,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,! ,,eighte5? ,,c5tury4 ,& 9 a m9or degree _! privilege has be5 %>$ by o!rs4 ,! art ( ,ga9sbor\gh & ( ,watteau has immortalis$ a hat1 a pleat1 & a fl[]$ sac2 ,madame du ,b>ry has a special %ade ( p9k consecrat$ to h] memory2 ! lace coll> :i* exp&s r\nd ! %\ld]s _h at its *ri/5+ no less a p]son ?an ,ca!r9e de ,m$ici2 & ,napoleon gave 8 "n to a hat4 ,( ! m mod]n g>m5ts ,i c\ld take z examples ! c>digan1 a wai/coat ( wool nam$ aft] a noble "l2 & ,i c\ld recall t ano!r noble "l1 "o ,sp5c]1 introduc$ a %ort wooll5 jacket2 & t ! great g5]al ,g>ibaldi is responsible = ! loose %irt ) op5 coll>2 & t a peculi> k9d ( op5-sleev$ b$-jacket1 kn[n z ! night+ale1 is sacr$ to ! h]oic ef=ts ( t devot$ nurse :o did su* spl5did duty at ! ,crimea4 ,illu/ration3 ,,madame ,,de ,,pompad\r4 ,madame de ,pompad\r repres5t$ 9 h] c5tury ev]y?+ t 0 mo/ beautiful1 mo/ desirable1 & mo/ allur+1 & %e play$ h] "p z pione] ( fa%ion ) a fi]ce1 reckless en?usiasm1 &1 f ! cr[n ( h] roll$ hair to ! tip ( h] embroid]$ %oes1 express$ conclusively ! prodigal & ! pretty4 ,^u h] feet %e be/[$ consid]able att5tion1 & n>r[ po9t$ %oes 7 among/ h] innovations2 %e w\ld h !m deck$ ) e conceivable conceit1 & kick h] r$ heels 9 defiance ( public op9ion4 ,a pair ( h] %oes are ev5 n[ kept 9 ! ,museum at ,cluny1 & ^! are embroid]$ 9 a design ( gre5 foliage1 outl9$ ) silv]1 clasp$ ) silv] buckles glitt]+ ) old pa/e4 ,fans also 7 among/ h] weaknesses2 %e _h ^! ( e size & %ape1 ) long h&les :i* c\ld n be fold$1 & m\nts ( c>v$ & decorat$ ivory1 "s ( h] ,*9ese fans be+ wor? a small =tune4 ,mrs4 ,delany's lett]s may be ! f\ndation = a lib]al education 9 ! art ( co/ume z practis$ 9 ,engl& 9 ! eighte5? c5tury1 & h] description ( ,lady ,hunt+don's dress at a ,c\rt ball is z vivid z rem>kable1 reflect+ at once cr$it on ! ,boswell & ! inspiration3-- ,h] petticoat 0 ( black velvet embroid]$ ) *5ille1 ! patt]n a l>ge /one vase fill$ ) ramp+ fl[]s1 :i* spread almo/ ov] ! bread? ( ! petticoat f ! top to ! bottom2 betwe5 ea* vase ( fl[]s 0 a patt]n ( gold %ells & foliage emboss$ & mo/ heavily ri*4 ,! g[n 0 :ite sat9 embroid]$ also ) *5ille mix$ ) gold1 no vase on ! sleeve1 b two or ?ree on ! tail2 x 0 a mo/ lab\r$ piece ( f9]y1 ! patt]n mu* prop]] = a /ucco /aircase ?an ! app>el ( a lady4 ,%e also writes ! description ( a dress %e is go+ to we> at ! w$d+ ( ,pr9cess ,anne 7,george ,,ii4's elde/ daught]7 & ,pr9ce ,william ( ,nassau & ,orange 9 #agcd3-- ,i h got my w$d+ g>m5t ready2 'tis a brocad$ lute-/r+ :ite gr\nd1 ) great ramp+ fl[]s 9 %ades ( purples1 r$s1 & gre5s4 ,i gave ?irte5 %ill+s a y>d3 :i* looks bett] ?an x describes1 & x w make a %[4 ,i %all we> x ) d>k purple & gold ribbon1 & a black hood = dec5cy's sake4 ,& aga9 %e describes3 ,! ,pr9cess ( ,orange's dress 0 ! prettie/ ?+ t ev] 0 se5--a corps de robe--t is1 9 pla9 ,engli%1 a /iff bodi$ g[n4 ,! eight pe]s' daught]s t held up h] tra9 7 9 ! same sort ( dress1 all :ite & silv]1 ) great quantities ( jewels 9 _! hair & long locks2 "s ( !m v pretty & well-%ap$1 x is a mo/ becom+ dress4 ,! ,pr9cess wore a mantua & petticoat1 :ite damask ) ! f9e/ embroid]y ( ri* emboss$ gold4 ,on "o side ( h] head %e _h a gre5 diamond ( va/ size1 ! %ape ( a pe>1 & two pe>ls prodigi\sly l>ge t 7 fa/5$ to wires & hung loose 9 h] hair2 on ! o!r side small diamonds prettily dispos$2 h] e>-r+s1 necklace1 & b>s to h] /ays all extravagantly f9e1 pres5ts ( ! ,pr9ce ( ,orange to h]4 ,9 ! same lett] %e says3 ,! ,que5 comm5d$ my clo!s4 ,9 ! reign ( ,l\is ,,xv4 ! ,engli% borr[$ all _! fa%ions f ,france4 ,! beautiful ,au/rian1 ,m>ie ,anto9ette1 came 9 a blaze ( spl5d\r to *>m & a/oni% e "o1 & ! lovelie/ ladies ( h] ,c\rt1 head$ by h] fri5d ! ,pr9cess de ,lamballe1 vi$ ) h] 9 inaugurat+ a reign ( co/ume :i* 0 to h be5 roses1 roses all ! way4 ,alas1 h[ev]1 ?orns made !mselves felt only too soon4 ,9 h] e>ly days ! ,que5 seem$ to h no c>e save t noble lov] ( h]s & h] dressmak]2 & %e /udi$ ! m9or details ( ! etiquette ( h] ,c\rt s assidu\sly t we h ! amus+ hi/ory ( h] disrob+1 surr\nd$ by a bevy ( ladies1 ea* tak+ _! turn 9 h&+ _! royal mi/ress h] *emise4 ,m>ie ,anto9ette's delicate beauty call$ = pale col\rs1 & gre5 & p9k & puce 7 among/ ! fav\r$ tones1 ! la/ m5tion$ tak+ its "n f no m attractive s\rce ?an ! back ( a flea4 ,h] e>li] dresses display$ /iff po9t$ bodices ) /oma*]s1 held ) little ti$ b[s ( velvet1 & pani]s bun*$ lib]ally on ! hips to %[ ! "u-dress ( lace1 bord]$ ) fl\nces1 head$ & fe/oon$ ) roses4 ,! dcolletage 0 squ>e1 & ! elb[ sleeves _h frills ( lace4 ,illu/ration3 ,,m>ie ,,anto9ette4 ,! pani]s grew daily 9 size1 & evok$ ! inevitable d5unciation :i* waits punctually ^u ! heels ( any fav\rite ( fa%ion4 ,m>ie ,anto9ette v>i$ h] corsets to suit h] bodices1 !re9 %[+ mu* wisdom1 s9ce obvi\sly ! %ort-wai/$ bodice asks b5ea? x a /ay totally diff]5t f t ne$$ b5ea? a bodice :i* is cut 9 a long po9t 9 front4 ,h] fi*us 7 z elaborate z da9ty1 & ! me?od ( _! adju/m5t v>i$ 9 half-a-doz5 diff]5t ways--!y w\ld be cross$ ov] ! bu/ & ti$ at ! back1 or tuck$ into ! wai/b&1 or fa/5$ high on ! bu/ ) bun*es ( ribbons or fl[]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,peignoir4 ,no g>m5t m attractive c be imag9$ ?an ! d%abill galant3 a teag[n ( h]s :i* 0 ru*$ f ! neck r\nd to ! %ort tra91 & display$ a frill$ front ( lace or musl9 ti$ ) ribbons1 & da9tily fl\nc$ r\nd ! hem4 ,silks1 sat9s1 & brocades 7 us$ to make ^!1 b %ot silk enjoy$ supreme patronage2 & ! fav\rite dressmak]1 ,madame ,b]t91 0 a h]o9e ( va/ importance1 a g5ius ( diplomatic habits1 :o play$ mo/ successfully ^u ! fancies ( h] royal patron1 br++ h] e day "s new device 9 pani]s or sumptu\s tra9 :i* x 0 impossible to resi/4 ,m>ie ,anto9ette ador$ fea!rs1 & ! pana*e fl\ri%$ "u h] fav\r1 & boldly surviv$ h] "m's reprim&4 ,y h s5t me ! picture ( an actress1 n ( a ,que51 %e wrote1 ^u receiv+ a picture ( h] daught] 9 a prodigi\s head-dress ( fea!rs & jewels4 ,jewels1 x is well kn[n1 7 among/ ,m>ie ,anto9ette's weaknesses4 ,did n !y inspire t romance ( ! ,que5's necklace :i* has pursu$ u = _m ye>s 9 v>i\s works ( fiction & drama1 & is /ill reg>d$ z vitally int]e/+8 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,coiffure4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,v>iety ,,( ,,head-,,dresses ,,adopt$ ,,9 ,,! ,,eighte5? ,,c5tury4 ,b let me return to ,engl&1 & repeat t ,fr5* fa%ions 7 treat$ ) s]vility1 if n ) complete success1 = someh[ ! ,engli% wom5 7 too pond]\sly exact 9 _! me?od ( adju/m5t to toy triumphantly ) ! _m accessories ( lace1 & ribbon1 & velvet1 & buckles1 & ru*+s :i* 7 ess5tially ! di/+ui%+ features ( ^! /yles4 ,&1 also1 ! small feet ( ! ,fr5* wom5 enc\rag$ mu* att5tion to da9ty %oes1 ) col\r$ heels & embroid]$ toes1 & to ^! ! national defici5cies or sup]fluities ( ! ,engli% wom5 7 r a drawback4 ,h[ev]1 !y foll[$ ! ,fr5* fa%ions at a di/ance1 & be/[$ mo/ e>ne/ att5tion ^u hair-dress+1 :i* assum$ =midable proportions dur+ ?is p]iod1 & rose high] & ev] high]1 to be topp$ by ornam5ts z incongru\s1 z hide\s4 ,! skilful hair-dress] :o c\ld build a head 0 at a premium2 ! art ( hair-dress+ be+ reckon$ z "o ( ! mo/ important1 & z r>e z difficult4 ,no lady's maid1 h[ev] clev]1 0 entru/$ ) ?is difficult task1 & v complicat$ 0 ! "w ( con/ruct+ ! popul> coiffure1 :i* 0 pil$ half a y>d high1 & deck$ ) pads1 & false hair1 & curls s /uck d[n & pla/]$ ) pomades t !y might hold = weeks )\t be+ pull$ d[n4 ,s monum5tal 7 ^! erections t collapsible frames _h to be made1 s t ladies c\ld pass ?r\gh doors & get into _! s$an-*airs4 ,w9dmills & %ips 9 full sail1 fruit & balls 7 add$ to ! pile1 & o/ri* plumes nodd$ boldly among/ a pr(usion ( ribbons & fl[]s4 ,! ari/ocratic 0 ( c\rse ! only class t c\ld af=d ^! mo/ elaborate /yles1 :]e s mu* curl+ & frizz+ appe>$ 9 l>ge masses 9 front t iron hairp9s 7 us$ to keep ^! 9 place at ! top le/ !y %\ld fall cru%$ b5ea? _! own weight4 ,! hats 7 worn r f> back to %[ ^! curls1 & _m _h long ends ( ribbon hang+ d[n at ! back1 & o!rs _h l[ cr[ns & wide brims trimm$ ) fl[]s4 ,:at 0 kn[n z a fly cap 0 a l>ge butt]fly edg$ ) jewels1 & cr[nless hats became ! fa%ion2 inv5t$ s z n to spoil ! high coiffure1 !y boa/$ no?+ b brim1 & 7 delegat$ to d duty only 9 ! f9e/ wea!r4 ,! cala%1 :i* resembles comically ! hood ( a baby's p]ambulator1 c\ld be drawn back or ov] ! face at w1 & 0 ti$ ) /r+s4 ,/raw hats obta9$1 z well z ^? ( silk & velvet1 & a mob-cap creat$ su* a s5sation at ,ranelagh1 ! popul> resort ( ! mom5t1 t all ! wom5 7 cry+ out = "o be=e ! sun _h ris5 & set aga94 ,! mob-cap 0 made ( blonde1 fl[]s1 ribbons1 & musl92 b s great 0 ! craze = hair-dress+ & head decoration t e sort ( cap & hat ga9$ "s att5tion 9 turn1 & among/ !m 7 hoods ( lace or velvet1 edg$ ) fur1 & crpe turbans held ) jewels1 ) a gr\p ( fea!rs wav+ pr\dly on ! top4 ,! fam\s ,devon%ire hat ( black ) :ite fea!rs %[$ well ! curls & rolls1 :i* ext5d$ to ! back ( ! head :5 x _h be5 realis$ t ! /raight clean upw>d sweep to ! top p9nacle ( ! puffs 0 a disadvantage to ! cont\r n to be p]mitt$4 ,( ! prettie/ ( ! fa%ions 7 ! broad-brimm$ hats ( black *ip1 & ! ,rub5s hats ( black velvet2 & ! /raight-cr[n$ gipsy hats 7 really q *>m+2 b ! w+$ ,m]cury hat receiv$ m popul>ity ?an x des]v$4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,cap ,,& ,,hood4 ,! p]ruques ( ! m51 ev5 :5 fre% f ! embraces ( ! curl-pap]s1 mu/ h look$ v insignificant by ! side ( ! huge erections :i* t[]$ above ! wom51 :o did n scruple 9 _! m>tyrdom to sit on ! floor ( a hackney coa* s t ! head-dress %\ld n be dis>rang$1 or to g to b$ ) _! hair surr\nd$ by a basket1 or held 9 position by pill[s & tapes4 ,happily ! danc+ ( ! p]iod 0 ( a /ately k9d1 = ! coiffure w\ld h brook$ no su* frivolities z ! two-/ep1 & ! upro>i\s lanc]s ( to-day w\ld h made %ort "w ( ! hair-dress]'s lab\r ( "t & money4 ,! "q ( complexion 0 s]i\sly /udi$1 ! col\r ( ! *9 & *eeks be+ c>efully suit$ to ! g[ns4 ,pat*es 7 lavi%ly indulg$ 9 9 ,engl& & ,france1 ! eyebr[s 7 black$ & ev5 false1 & ,*9a1 ,spa91 & ,portugal all contribut$--= a consid]ation--r\ges & :ite lead & wa% balls1 sc5t$ l>d & lip salves1 & toilet wat]s & soaps4 ,! fan 0 an indisp5sable complem5t to e g[n1 & its be/ conduct 0 an art :i* might well h be5 add$ to ! s*ola/ic curriculum = wom51 always suppos+ ! l 9 exi/5ce4 ,! fans 7 made ( *ick5 sk9 & pa9t$2 & *ick5 sk9 also _h ! privilege1 ) lace & an embroid]y ( gold & silv]1 9 mak+ gloves & mitt5s = ev5+ we>4 ,tight-lac+ 0 de rigueur1 & x is inde$ impossible to imag9e any discom=t omitt$ f ! toilet4 ,i _c picture conditions m entirely unpleasant ?an to glaze ! face ) pa9t & grease ( r$ & black1 to decorate x at int]vals ) devices ( /ick+ pla/]1 to supply x ) false eyebr[s1 & to m\nt on ! head "s p\nds' weight ( /uff$ hair1 :ile r$uc+ ! wai/ at lea/ ?ree in*es bel[ ! natural size1 exp&+ ! hips ) :alebone & hoops1 compress+ ! feet into n>r[ %oes1 & c>efully /udy+ e movem5t ( ! arm s z to hold a fan at a significant & becom+ angle4 ,& to add to all ?is1 ! dresses 7 ( ! /iffe/ brocades1 deck$ ) gold & silv] embroid]ies & t9sell$ fr+es1 velvet & fur increas+ ! burd54 ,illu/ration3 ,,"s ,,/icks4 ,! excessive elaboration ( ! hoods & ! sc>ves & ! aprons dangl+ ) silv] tassels & fr+es 0 responsible = "s criticism f ,beau ,na%1 ! autocrat ( ,ba?1 :]e he _h e/abli%$ ! /ricte/ rules ( dress & proc$ure1 cov]+ all del9qu5cies ( conduct ) a be>+ ( conv9c+ dignity set 9 an atmosph]e ( punctili\s etiquette4 ,goldsmi? gives an in/ance ( ! despotic rule ( ,na%1 & ( ! special lib]ties he arrogat$ to himself4 ,i h kn[n him on a ball-night /rip ev5 ! ,du*ess ( ,q4 7! ,kitty beautiful1 z ! poet ,prior call$ ?is ,du*ess ( ,que5sb]ry71 & ?r[ h] apron at "o ( ! h9d] b5*es among ! ladies' wom51 obs]v+ t none b ,abigails appe>$ 9 :ite aprons4 ,wom5 _h inde$ to suff] 9 ^? days to atta9 :at !y 7 pleas$ to call ! beautiful1 & x is q a relief to rememb] ! mom5t :5 ,m>ie ,anto9ette took a sudd5 caprice to appe> )\t hoops 9 a s(t sat9 g[n ) wide sleeves1 :i* set ! fa%ion 9 ,london z well z 9 ,france4 ,= a %ort "t only1 h[ev]1 su* mod]ation rul$1 & ! hoops came back l>g] ?an ev] 9 #aghd1 :5 ! ,du*ess ( ,cumb]l& swept ! floor 9 five y>ds ( brocade1 & a /oma*] blaz+ /iffly ) jewels4 ,! pa/oral simplicity ( ! ,petit ,trianon %\ld h really made m la/+ impression ?an x did4 ,= ! ,c\rt ladies play$ at milkmaids "u ! rule ( _! f>m] ,que51 & *urn$ butt] ) _! own fair h&s1 & f\nd a wide field = da9ty disguises 9 ru/ic & ru9\s simplicity4 ,! peasant girls' dresses ( /uffs & musl9 7 glorifi$ by ri* silks & musl9 & *allis deck$ ) lace fi*us & cr[n$ ) rose-col\r$ & be-ribbon$ /raw hats1 & embroid]$ holl& & ,p]sian cambric 7 affect$ economies no less exp5sive ?an ! maize-col\r$ silk & /rip$ gre5 & :ite sat9 ( av[$ prodigality4 ,! ,trianon 0 a happy hunt+-gr\nd = flirtation1 b t is ano!r /ory1 inde$ a great _m2 b x s]v$ too z a pretext = innum]able new frocks1 & ! col\r-pr9ts ( ! "t conv9c+ly prove ! da9ty possibilities af=d$ by ! artifice ( simplicity alli$ to a nice ta/e 9 ribbons4 ,we h to g back to ! days ( ,m>ie ,anto9ette = a practice :i* ar\s$ "s int]e/ & amusem5t :5 a dressmak] 9 ,london la/ ye> 0 fir$ ) a desire to revive x4 ,g[ns 7 inve/$ ) ! p[] to express special emotion1 & ,molire held ! notion up to ridicule 9 8 fam\s ,prcieuses4 ,long n>r[ %oes ) ! seam at ! heel1 ^: socket 0 /udd$ ) jewels1 7 call$ v5ez-y-voir2 & ?is sugge/ion ( =w>dness 0 aga9 evid5t 9 a ribbon :i* w5t by ! "n ( m>k$ att5tion4 ,o!r absurdities (t5 quot$ 7 ! g[n kn[n z ! /ifl$ sigh1 trimm$ ) sup]flu\s regrets1 & ! cap ( assur$ conque/1 & a muff ( mom5t>y agitation4 ,t[>ds ! end ( ! reign ( ,l\is ,,xvi4 ! l[ head-dress came into fa%ion1 ! %ort curls be+ ga!r$ into a knot ( ribbon or catogan1 & ! fair mod]at$ _! transports = p[d]$ hair :i* _h abundantly obta9$ 9 :ite1 r$di% blonde1 & grey4 ,m>ie ,anto9ette knew all !re 0 to "k ( ! art ( dress1 & recognis+ ! supreme *>m ( caprice1 %e w\ld r+ e *ange 9 turn2 & p]haps %e nev] look$ m exquisitely beautiful ?an :51 h] hair p[d]$ & h] face fa9tly l9$ by sorr[1 %e met ! scaffold & ! mob on ! la/ day ( h] exi/5ce1 9 h] pla9 black dress & simple :ite fi*u4 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,9 ,,! ,,n9ete5? ,,c5tury ,on try+ to set d[n a *ronicle ( dress z x liv$ 9 ! e>li] "p ( ! n9ete5? c5tury1 my m9d becomes imm$iately obsess$ ) %ort-wai/$ g[ns2 & a vision ( ! hapless ,joseph9e--^: "n1 by ! way1 ,i %\ld h add$ to ! li/ ( ! few :o h /ood godmo!r to a fa%ion--imm$iately appe>s be=e me 9 h] graceful %ort-skirt$ ev5+ dress ) its high ,empire belt4 ,t all wom5 kill ! /yle !y love might ) tru? be said ( ! en?usiasm :i* rag$ = t ,empire belt1 = x grew small] by degrees & grotesquely less :5 x comm5c$ its c>e] imm$iately b5ea? ! arm1 pu%+ ! bu/ "u ! ?roat1 pres5t+ b an apology = a bodice1 & ne$+ ! completely slim figure to )/& its lib]ties ) any degree ( decorum4 ,decorum 01 h[ev]1 n among its ambitions4 ,illu/ration3 ,,"s ,,qua9t ,,examples ,,( ,,n9ete5?-,,c5tury ,,headge>4 ,= walk+ we> ! high wai/ 0 no less a desid]atum1 & clo? skirts1 long & full1 7 complet$ by %ort velvet coats ) long tight sleeves1 ve/s ( :ite1 & /ocks ( black4 ,! :ole 0 cr[n$ by small hats ) fea!rs on "o side1 or high hats ( mascul9e conv5tion made ( cream-col\r$ beav]4 ,napoleon1 foll[+ 9 ! foot/eps ( _m ( 8 pr$ecessors 9 ! pr(ession ( ,royalty1 %[$ a nice appreciation ( ! *>m ( co/ume1 be+ alt]nately disapprov+ & enc\rag+ 9 8 criticisms1 & always lean+ t[>ds ! side ( prodigality4 ,pr9cess ,paul9e ,buonap>te made dress ! religion ( h] salon1 & !re are records ( h] audaci\s grace 9 a fancy co/ume z ,m9]va1 & ( "o ( h] soire g[ns :i* express$ ! la/ ^w ( extravagance 9 p9k tulle ov] p9k sat91 trimm$ ) m>ab\t fea!rs1 & diamond agrafes1 ) ! bodice encru/$1 & e seam ( ! skirt gli/5+1 ) diamonds4 ,9 ,engl& ,que5 ,*>lotte ev9c$ a decid$ pr$ilection = ! greatcoat & ! clo? pelisse ) a velvet coll>1 cr[n$ by ! circul> hat ( beav]1 veil$ ) gre5 musl92 & mu* fav\r 0 grant$ to su* mascul9e prop]ties z ! silk cravat & ! boot ) ! high milit>y heel1 ! fem99e situation be+ sav$ only by ! sprigg$ lace veil4 ,an alt]native to ! pelisse 0 a g>m5t n unlike ! ,greek *iton1 :i*1 h[ev]1 nev] receiv$ ! att5tion be/[$ ^u ! boxclo? driv+-coat ) heavy capes1 & ! manly etcet]as to d x hon\r or di%on\r4 ,x goes to prove my suspicion t !re is a leav5 ( contr>iety 9 ! s\l ( wom51 :5 ,i rememb] t b5ea? ^! 0 worn a cambric or lawn dress ( mo/ diaphan\s detail1 & s close-fitt+ t ! fem99e =m1 un=tunately n be+ div9e1 lack$ "u its influ5ce ! be/ grace ( retic5ce4 ,besides be+ ( cambric & lawn1 ^! skimpy dresses 7 made ( cle> silk net ov] a f\ndation ( :ite sat91 & all 7 v %ort 9 ! wai/ & 9 ! skirt1 :i* 0 trimm$ ) r\leaux ( sat94 ,9 w>m wea!r ! ?ick cloaks 7 disc>d$ = ! %ort cloaks & mantles %ap$ z ! ,z\ave1 or 9 ! %ort sacque /yle ext5d+ only to ! wai/4 ,a sp5c] 9 a contra/+ %ade ( silk a*iev$ popul>ity & 0 consid]$ ! fitt+ complem5t to ! musl9 g[n2 & ab\t ! ye> #ahad ?is 0 made ) full sleeves & up/&+ coll> & worn ov] ! morn+ dress1 :i* 0 ei!r cut high to ! neck1 or fill$ 9 ) a ruff & k]*ief ( lace or musl94 ,a fold ( musl9 also did s]vice1 cross$ 9 front ( ! popul> ev5+ bodice1 ^: dcolletage 0 m rem>kable = its brea* ?an its obs]vance ( ! be/ ideals ( mode/y4 ,a fav\rite ornam5t 0 a gold *a9 & he>t1 :i* w\ld op5 to reveal ! eye ( a lov]1 relative1 or fri5d execut$ on ivory & bord]$ ) enamel2 & ?is limn$ eye is a love tok5 :i* seems to be com+ once m into fa%ion4 ,fr5* fa%ions aga9 became ! mode at ! beg9n+ ( ! c5tury1 :5 :ite *emisettes 7 worn ) ! ,swiss petticoat1 & p[d] fell into disuse1 & ! hair 0 long or %ort 9 curls fall+ ov] ! face1 a /yle ( coiffure :i* 0 foll[$ by ! crop1 9 fav\r ( :i* ev5 ! mo/ tol]ant c f9d little to put =w>d4 ,) ! crop a n>r[ fillet 0 plac$ r\nd ! head1 hold+ a rose 9 front1 or ov] x an imm5se pana*e ( fea!rs w\ld nod ) fooli% monotony4 ,! cropp$ head _h = its successor ! /yle kn[n z la *9oise = :i* ! hair 0 tightly dragg$ back f ! =ehead1 ) a long r+let fall+ at ! side1 a plait set 9 a clu/] ( roses cr[n+ ! top1 :i* 0 fur!r decorat$ ) gold p9s1 tassell$ ) small gold balls4 ,_m g>m5ts _h =eign names4 ,a robe kn[n z ! ,mameluke _h a ,delta trimm+2 a coiffure adorn$ ) jewels & a d\ble r[ ( beads on ! =ehead 0 d$icat$ to ,egypt2 & ,au/]litz express$ a nanke5-col\r$ g[n ) blue trimm+s4 ,& !re 7 caps recognis$ z ,patmos & ,tyrolean2 & !re 7 ,spani% dresses1 & ,etruscan bord]s to ,pyr5ean robes4 ,! ,patmos cap _h *>ms :i* easily pu%$ x to ! height ( success1 :5 x 0 made ( sat9 & lace cut into po9ts at ! front1 0 cov]$ ) diamonds1 & _h tassels fall+ at ei!r side4 ,beau ,brummel1 z he walk$ ^u ! ,pantiles1 c>efully cultivat+ t[>ds ev]ybody an insol5ce t w\ld n be tol]at$ n[adays1 ev5 9 ! ri*e/ memb] ( ! ,/ock ,ex*ange1 laid d[n ! law ( dress = m54 ,ab\t #ahaa he held supreme sway1 & 0 ! ,arbit] ,elegant>ium1 contribut+ d\btless to ! gaiety ( nations _m a new /ock & new button4 ,x 0 n long aft] ?is1 h[ev]1 t man gave up fa%ion z a bad job1 ultimately cont5t+ himself = 8 adornm5t ) ! details ( 8 wai/coat & ! cut ( 8 :isk]s1 begg+ ! "q at fir/ by full-skirt$ coats ) velvet coll>s1 frill$ %irts & /ock ties1 tassell$ canes1 & light beav] hats1 !n gradually drift+ into ! safe h>b\r ( broadclo? & l951 :]e he p]mitt$ himself selection only 9 ! col\r ( 8 necktie & ! option ( ! h>d or ! s(t hat4 ,gone are 8 glories ( brocade & sat9 & tight bree*es1 :i* reveal$ silk /ock+s & buckl$ %oes2 bani%$ are ! lace ruffles1 ! nanke51 ! mulb]ry1 & ! blue clo? ) brass buttons2 dim9i%$ are ! curl$ heads2 & frankly ,i regret all ^! z losses to ! beauty z well z to ! hum\r ( social exi/5ce4 ,x 0 9 ! e>lie/ days ( ! n9ete5? c5tury t artificial fl[]s began to obta9 consid]able popul>ity1 & !y 7 us$ 9 ! hair & on ! bodices & 9 fe/oons on ! skirts1 & on ! hems ( tra9s4 ,aft] ! return ( ,napoleon f ,elba1 violets 7 ! conspicu\s fa%ion1 be+ reg>d$ z an emblem ( ,imp]ialism1 & no fai?ful foll[] 0 se5 )\t a bun* ( violets 9 h] dress2 :ile ! ladies ( royal sympa?ies w\ld1 9 hon\r ( ,l\is ,,xviii41 decorate _! g[ns ) eighte5 tucks1 & supply _! ca%m]e %awls ) v]milion bord]s4 ,%awls1 ! manufacture ( :i* _h begun 9 ,engl& 9 ! eighte5? c5tury1 7 9 great reque/ lat] 9 ! c5tury4 ,!y 7 made ( ca%m]e1 9 imitation ( ! ,indian %awls1 :i* 7 respectfully consid]$ articles ( luxury & importance dur+ all ! days ( ,que5 ,victoria1 :o *ose ^! z w$d+ gifts = ! brides %e delight$ to hon\r4 ,b ,i progress too fa/4 ,aft] ! battle ( ,wat]loo1 fa%ion decid$ly *ang$1 & ! cl++ g[n1 ) its skimpy skirt hang+ f a %ort belt or ,empire bodice1 0 disc>d$ 9 fav\r ( a mu*-trimm$ dress /&+ well away f ! figure1 & fancy w\ld "w its elaborate w on ! trimm+ ( ^! skirts ) scollops1 _m-col\r$ embroid]ies1 fr+es & gold braid4 ,! bodice /ill rema9$ a m9or quantity1 suppli$ ) two %ort puff$ sleeves & fill$ to ! bu/ or some:at bel[ x ) a jewell$ clasp or "s decoration ( embroid]y or lace1 ^: indiscretions 7 presumably to be conceal$ b5ea? a da9ty sc>f ( silk or col\r$ gauze1 an elegance :i* fail$ 9 its duties lam5tably1 & hung limply ov] ! arm z if a%am$ ( its del9qu5cies4 ,! fa%ionable outdoor dress c\ld h>dly h be5 suitable to ! ,engli% climate1 unless inde$ its habits h alt]$ /rangely1 & its detractors h reason = _! abuse4 ,! loose robe 0 ( jaconet musl9 op5 at ! neck & cov]$ ) embroid]y1 & r\nd ! %\ld]s w\ld hang ! sc>f1 usually dropp+ to ! wai/1 & held 9 ! holl[ ( ! elb[2 & on ! head appe>$ a ,fr5* cap ( blonde lace trimm$ ) ribbons4 ,9 ! '?irties1 dress 0 m]ely a trave/y ( ! 'tw5ties2 huge sleeves & /iff5$ petticoats 7 univ]sal1 & ! tight-fitt+ bodices1 cut ) slop+ %\ld]s1 gave a ?9 flat appe>ance to ! wai/1 fur!r acc5tuat$ by ! balloon+ sleeves1 sett+ closely to ! wri/4 ,! skirts 7 %ort1 & /ill fur!r enhanc$ ! imm5se effect ( ! sleeves2 & r\nd ! wai/ a pla9 b& add$ angul>ity to ! outl9e4 ,rev]s1 %ap$ l capes at ! back & po9t$ 9 ! front1 7 on day & ev5+ bodices alike1 & pel]9es ( all k9ds e/abli%$ _! popul>ity1 be+ tuck$ into ! wai/1 or hav+ wide long ends cross$ at ! back or front4 ,blonde lace 0 a fav\rite trimm+ to all g[ns2 & a /yle ( dress t took ! fancy = a %ort "t 0 kn[n z ! tunic4 ,?is 0 made ) a sleeveless bodice & po9t$ %\ld]s1 ! "u-dress be+ two in*es long] & ( a col\r diff]5t f ! skirt1 :i* 0 op5 9 ! front4 ,bright col\rs 7 v popul>1 b1 on ! :ole1 ! _s ( co/ume 0 *a/5$1 & muffs1 fans1 b\quets1 & p>asols became consid]ably small]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,lady ,,bless+ton4 ,! mo/ conspicu\s g>m5ts 9 ! e>lie/ days ( ,que5 ,victoria 7 ! %awl-%ap$ cloak1 ! circul> cape1 & ! crossov] made ( ei!r embroid]$ crpe or taffeta1 & be>+ on its bord]s a fr+e or "s frill ( lace4 ,b5ea? ^! ! sleeves dropp$ l[] & l[] f ! %\ld]1 & ext5d$ _! fulness f elb[ to wri/2 _! top 0 tight & pla91 or edg$ ) two little frills1 & ! bill[ b5ea? 0 express$ 9 :ite lawn4 ,! fi*u 9 cambric or lawn 0 a feature ( ne>ly e bodice1 ! only alt]native be+ a d\ble coll>1 :i* turn$ d[n at ! neck4 ,! out/&+ petticoat 0 ubiquit\s1 skirts ov] x be+ s+le & trimm$ ) fl\nces1 or d\ble & divid+ 9 ! c5tre1 to %[ a contra/+ "u-skirt4 ,k]*iefs & capes 7 drap$ ov] l[ dresses1 & b]?as 7 important features 9 ! tulle or t>letan g[n1 :i* 0 fe/oon$ & fl\nc$1 ti$ ) ribbons1 "o skirt be+ loop$ up ov] ano!r ) m +5uity ?an elegance4 ,! bonnet pok$ its brim into an audaci\s spoon1 tilt+ upw>ds to reveal a trimm+ b5ea? ( quill+s & ru*+s 9 musl9 or net1 ) a b[ ( ribbon & a bun* ( fea!rs on ! cr[n1 :5ce fell ! curta9 at ! back to ! neck4 ,! poke gradually decreas$ 9 height & wid?1 ev5tually assum+ a semicircle z close to ! br[ z ! bonnet ( a b>ge-woman1 & ! ,fr5* ladies adopt$ ?is fa%ion1 mak+ ! bonnets ( /raw & drap+ !m ) a gre5 gauze veil4 ,ab\t #ahfj ! cr9ol9e ( horsehair & /eels swell$ visibly1 l ano!r h]o1 & ,leghorn hats took ! place ( bonnets4 ,^!1 deck$ ) ribbons & plumes1 w\ld b5d l[ _! brims ov] ! face ( beauty & ugl9ess4 ,hair 0 p]mitt$ e lic5se except ! mon/r\s unheal?y misdemean\rs ( ! ,/u>t & ,tudor p]iods4 ,9 turn1 x /ra9$ itself rigidly to ! topmo/ po9t ( ! cr[n1 :]e1 coil$ 9 plaits1 x met ! j rew>d ( a disfigur+ bun* ( fea!rs2 x puff$ itself out 9 a mass beh9d ! e>s1 or b&$ itself demurely ov] !m4 ,x m]rily %ook itself 9 r+lets f a c5tre p>t+1 :i* knew su* sorr[ z ,macass> oil & ! controll+ influ5ce ( ! side comb2 or1 /uff$ out ) frisettes1 x hid its ins9c]ity 9 ! me%es ( ! silk & *5ille net2 or x lay l[ 9 flat curls at ! nape ( ! neck4 ,at diff]5t times x plac$ ! burd5 ( its rolls & curls ^u e in* ( ! cr[n--on top ( x1 9 ! middle ( x1 beh9d x1 & 9 front ( x1 :]e1 inde$1 x once develop$ a fr5zy ( disord]1 & hung 9 wild & fr+$ confusion to ! eyebr[4 ,illu/ration3 ,,lady ,,bless+ton4 ,illu/ration3 ,,lady ,,dalm5y4 ,?is rem9ds me to note ! royal cons]vatism ( h] graci\s ,maje/y ,que5 ,alex&ra1 :o foll[s fa%ion at a dignifi$ di/ance1 l5d+ h] sweet p]sonal en*antm5t to our view ( h] ant$at$ coiffure1 ) its rais$ curls ov] h] br[ po9t+ slightly to ! c5tre ( ! =ehead4 ,royalty no long] seeks to lead fa%ions1 nor1 inde$1 to foll[ !m1 ! only exceptions to ! rule ( g5]ality be+ ! royal ladies ( ! h\ses ( ,saxe-,coburg-,go?a & ( ,connaught1 :o all %[ a mo/ delightful appreciation (1 & a becom+ sympa?y )1 e vag>y ( ,la ,mode4 ,yet our supreme ,royalty takes int]e/ 9 ! national aspect ( ! affairs ( co/ume1 & be/[s mu* p]sonal tr\ble 9 ar\s+ loyalty t[>ds ,iri% popl9s1 ,briti%-made silks1 ! twe$ indu/ries ( ,irel& & ,scotl& & ,wales1 & ! lace manufactures ( ,devon%ire & ,bucks & ,nott+ham4 ,! bl\se & ! teag[n ( to-day date _! inception f ! la/ c5tury1 b ! b5efic5t law ( evolution conc$es !m ! grace ( novelty1 ev5 :ile dogma t$i\sly reit]ates ,!re is no?+ new "u ! sun4 ,illu/ration3 ,,two ,,coiffures4 ,illu/ration3 ,,e>ly ,,victorian ,,/yles4 ,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,! ,,n9ete5? ,,c5tury4 ,9 co/ume ! ,victorian era 0 ,ev]y?+-arian1 welcom+ & disc>d+ all %apes & /yles ( g>m5ts1 & ga!r+ 9 ! fa%ions f e age1 adopt+ ) mild en?usiasm & mod]at$ transport ! mo/ graceful & ! mo/ graceless1 & imp>tially be/[+ att5tion ^u ! sla%$ & puff$ sleeves ( ! ,tudors1 ! lace coll> & wide ruff ( ! ,/u>ts1 ! ,watteau dress1 re-*ri/5$ ,dolly ,v>d51 ! %ort wai/s ( ! ,empire1 ! full coats & l>ge rev]s ( ! ,directoire1 & ! long plumes & brilliant buckles ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,an inju/ice to ! ^w /hetic 0 committ$ by ! foll[]s ( a fa%ion :i* cri$ al\d = sad col\rs1 sadd] %apes1 & ! sadde/ untid9ess2 & among/ ! ridicul\s mi/akes may be writt5 d[n a polonaise dress loop+ up 9 unexpect$ places1 fl\nc$ & furbel[$ )\t b\nds ( reason1 :ile ext5d+ itself f ! wai/ ov] an imm5se bu/le4 ,!re is satisfaction 9 rememb]+ ! reaction :i* took place aft] ?is 9 fav\r ( ! eelsk9 dress1 sett+ z tightly z 0 conv5i5t f neck to heel1 :5 ! wov5 j]sey-bodice _h a %ort spell ( patronage1 b1 prov+ itself suavely unsympa!tic 9 its treatm5t ( any b ! p]fect figure1 laps$ spe$ily into disuse4 ,ab\t #ahhb ! que/ionable *>ms ( ! bu/le reass]t$ !mselves1 & ! ,watteau /yle ( frock ex]cis$ "s b5eficial influ5ce ov] ! wai/ ( its fair we>]4 ,man's la/ aspiration t[>ds d&yism gasp$ & di$ 9 ! embrace ( ! /ock ( ,c\nt ,d',orsay4 ,n[1 woman alone rules ! roo/ ( fa%ion1 man is no long] dress$ b clo!d1 & "u fem99e autocracy1 dress1 ^: int]e/s are widely & publicly recognis$1 has rea*$ a position ( prim>y importance4 ,no m are ^! int]e/s repres5t$ 9 an unwant$ corn] ( a mon?ly p]iodical1 or 9 ! lett]s ( ! t[n c\s9 to ! c\ntry c\s91 or 9 ! c\nsels ( p]fection sign$ by ! old woman4 ,!y ma9ta9 v>i\s j\rnals e/abli%$ 9 _! hon\r1 & 9 ! field ( ,fa%ion ,engl& has ris5 f ! ranks to lead]%ip2 :ile a wide pla9 ( *eap selection op5s to ! prolet>iat ! *ance to beautify _! out] z well z _! "u we>1 :i* has em]g$ f ! uncompromis+ conf9es ( /iff long-clo? & ,madeira "w to ! s$uctive limits encompass$ by f9e lawn & embroid]y1 alli$ to ,val5ci5nes lace & s(t ribbon4 ,z ,i write1 ,fa%ion seems a pleasantly mod]ate ?+1 & ! summ]-day dress ( :ite l951 ) a broad-brimm$ hat encircl$ by ! float+ veil1 & ! ev5+ dress ( *iffon g>l&$ ) *iffon1 appe> to ju/ify my suspicion t :atev] is1 is "r1 9 ! _w ( dress4 ,&1 :5 ,i rememb] t ! picture dress ( to-day 0 ! g>b ( conv5tion ye/]day1 ,i c hope t our bespangl$ nets & t9sell$ brocades w 9 due c\rse be encircl$ ) *>m f ! halo ( ! bygone4 ,may x also1 ,i pray1 come to s(t5 ! h>de/ outl9e ( our lea!r-trimm$ twe$ & s]ge co/umes ( sport1 & to ex]cise a b5ign influ5ce ^u our disproportionate figures & our p]ky toques6 ,,*apt] ,x ,,( ,,briti% ,,peasants ,:ile se>*+ 9 ! annals ( ! bygone co/ume ( ! peasant1 ! mo/ democratic p]son might be tempt$ to regret ! repeal+ ( all sumptu>y law4 ,we are grateful to-day to recognise ! arti/ic value ( ! r$ tie ( ! mascul9e till] ( ! field1 or ( ! col\r$ h&k]*ief ov] ! head ( ! h>ve/-woman1 b1 9 ^? o!r times1 ! pla9s & ! fields1 ! woods & ! =e/s1 7 ! backgr\nd = a p 9 brave array1 on :i* blue1 r$1 gre51 & :ite play$ conspicu\s "p4 ,& n alone 9 col\r mu/ _! g>b h be5 pre-em95tly attractive to ! eye1 b 9 ! simplicity ( its make1 ! lib]al display ( :ite l95 ab\t ! neck & ! head1 & ! fur!r addition ( col\r$ lac+s4 ,^! complet$ an effect ( picturesque c>elessness :i* may well h be5 all[$ to cov] a multitude ( s9s ( omission 9 p]sonal cleanl9ess4 ,glanc+ r\ghly ?r\gh ! p]iods1 ,i f9d t ! dress mo/ worn 9 ,engl& by ! peasant wom5 9 ! elev5? c5tury consi/$ ( a co>se wooll5 g[n ) long sleeves closely fitt+ to ! wri/s1 a :ite l95 apron1 & a l95 k]*ief cov]+ ! head z a wimple4 ,9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,i4 x is record$ t m5 wore simple tunics ( r$ l9$ ) :ite1 innoc5t ( a girdle1 & op5 f ! wai/ at ! left side1 ! sleeves possess+ long cuffs rea*+ almo/ to ! elb[4 ,! mantle 0 (t5 add$1 & b5ea? ! tunic 7 *ausss or draw]s1 & ei!r boots or %oes1 ) cross$ diagonal lac+s4 ,hats or hoods 7 ( lea!r1 felt1 or clo?1 & w>m mitt5-%ap$ gloves ( co>se make 7 adopt$4 ,9 ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,ii4 wom51 :o held fai?fully to l95 aprons1 caps1 & k]*iefs1 wore long g[ns & pla9 bodices lac$ up ! back1 ! sleeves put r full at ! %\ld]s1 & ! petticoats pleat$ at ! wai/4 ,9 ! ?irte5? c5tury ! bliaus1 or smock1 ( canvas or fu/ian 0 made 9 _m v>ieties ( co>se clo?1 russet1 & cordetum produc$ = ! use ( ! poor4 ,! peasant wom5 7 conv]t$ t[>ds "s ambition = ! beautiful1 & _! co/ume became impress$ ) ! ornam5tal1 consi/+ ( a bodice cut l[ 9 ! neck to %[ a pleat$ *emisette ( :ite l951 & atta*$ to a fully ga!r$ skirt1 fa/5+ ) buttons d[n ! front4 ,_! boots 7 high & _h buttons on ! fronts1 :ile ! :ite l95 apron & :ite l95 cap or k]*ief /ill held _! place4 ,9 ! days ( ,k+ ,edw>d ,,ii4 ! m5 adopt$ a long g[n button+ f ! neck to ! wai/1 ) loosely hang+ sleeves1 %[+ closely-fitt+ "u-sleeves1 ! hood be+ fold$ back or p5d5t1 & ! %oes po9t$4 ,! d\ble dress 0 introduc$ 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury1 a dress :i* is 9 ! =m :i* we n[ associate ) ! fi%wife's dress1 ! upp] skirt be+ p9n$ back ov] a full petticoat1 ! bodice ( ?is be+ lac$ & ! sleeves loose4 ,*auc] describes 8 poor ,pl\ghman z we>+ a tab>d--a g>m5t unhe>d ( be=e ! f\rte5? c5tury--a hat1 scrip1 & sc>f2 ! ,%ipmanne 0 g>b$ all 9 a g[n ( fald+ to ! knee4 ,?is mat]ial 0 a k9d ( frieze1 & 9 ?is day ! co>se r$ wooll5 mat]ial /ill us$ by ! ,iri% peasant wom5 = petticoats & jackets is ! old fald+4 ,9 ! fifte5? c5tury ! *emisette to "s ext5t yield$ place to ! bodice high at ! neck & fa/5$ at ! back1 f9i%$ by a small l95 k]*ief ti$ 9 ! front4 ,a pla9 full wooll5 petticoat 0 9 vogue1 & ! sleeves 7 turn$ back ) pleat$ cuffs1 ! option 9 headge> be+ all[$ betwe5 a close hood or k]*ief & a pla9 hat ( /raw4 ,9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv4 ! peasant wom5 rev]t$ mo/ wisely to ! bodice1 :i* 0 cut l[ at ! neck 9 a circul> =m2 ! pla9 skirts 7 ga!r$ at ! wai/1 & ov] a :ite l95 cap !y plac$ a hood & cape cut 9 "o piece4 ,9 ! days :5 ! greate/ wid[] 0 a*iev+ 8 conjugal record1 an old c\ntry-man is describ$ z we>+ a button$ cap 7"o ) flaps ov] ! e>s1 turn$ up & fa/5$ ) a button71 a lockram fall+ b&1 a n>r[ turn$-d[n coll> ( co>se l95--co>se b clean1 a russet-coat2 a :ite belt ( horse hide1 "r horse coll> :ite lea!r2 a close r\nd bree* ( russet %eep's-wool1 ) a long /ock ( :ite k]sey1 & a high %oe ) yell[ buckles4 ,a pretty fell[1 ,i'm conv9c$4 ,9 ?is reign1 too1 ornam5tal braid f\nd its place on ! co/umes ( ! peasant wom51 ^: bodices1 cut squ>e & edg$ ) braid1 7 lac$ up at ! back4 ,h[ev]1 novelty1 :i* is ev] desirable1 0 obta9$ by limit+ ! bodices1 rais+ ! wai/s1 & tight5+ ! full sleeves at ! wri/s1 :]e !y 7 f9i%$ ) a small frill4 ,braid lat] ga9$ fur!r patronage1 & 9 ! reign ( ,m>y 0 all[$ ! privilege ( ornam5t+ ! full petticoats1 :5 ! closely-fitt+ bodices 7 /ill lac$ 9 ,v-%ape & flaunt$ an up/&+ coll> ( ,m$ici t5d5cy cut 9 "o ) rev]s4 ,on ! top ( ! sleeves 0 a padd$ roll1 & ^u ! head a qua9t cap display$ a small po9t 9 front1 & bore a close resemblance 9 ! cr[n to ! p5ny bun4 ,! e>ly ,elizabe?an peasant woman's dress consi/$ ( a d\ble skirt1 ! "u "o ( s]ge1 full1 ! upp] "o ) braid r\nd ! hem1 made 9 a contra/+ %ade1 & fold$ back to =m a pani]4 ,! tight-fitt+ bodice _h a po9t$ pla/ron edg$ ) ribbon on ei!r side1 & ! bodice 0 b\nd at ! hem ) ribbon1 :i* ti$ 9 a b[ at ! wai/1 a l>g] b[ appe>+ at ! bu/1 :ile r\nd ! neck a gauff]$ frill outspread itself ) /iff importance4 ,! sleeves 7 full1 & ! head 0 cov]$ ) a lawn cap1 ! cr[n ( :i* 0 full1 & ! curta91 turn+ back 9 front1 0 trimm$ ) lace4 ,yet ano!r /yle ( dress worn at ?is p]iod _h a full skirt braid$ r\nd ! hem & an upp] skirt ) a wid] braid1 ! squ>e-cut bodice1 also braid$1 be+ f9i%$ ) a turn$-d[n l95 coll>4 ,! sleeves display$ d\ble puffs to ! elb[1 !nce fitt+ tightly to ! wri/1 & braid aga9 appe>$ on ! mob-cap ( lawn1 & on ! hem ( ! lawn apron4 ,?is might h be5 ! attire ( _m a wilful w5* hie+ =? on h] holiday1 9 ! hopes ( cat*+ a glimpse ( "s gre5-clad figure 9 ! wake ( gay ,rob9 ,hood4 ,pleasant read+ is ( ! milkmaid ( ! reign ( ,james ,i42 %e mu/ h be5 a bonny figure 9 h] box-pleat$ "u-skirt ( r$ s]ge1 ) a blue s]ge ov]-skirt tuck$ up on ! hips4 ,h] tight bodice 0 ( blue & lac$ d[n ! front1 h] sleeves 7 long & loose to all[ ( _! be+ roll$ back to ! elb[1 r\nd h] neck 0 w\nd a bright-col\r$ k]*ief1 & on h] head ano!r1 :ile1 = m]rymak+ & ftes1 %e w\ld tie h] apron ) col\r$ ribbons1 & let bun*es ( ribbon adorn h] sm>t high-heel$ %oes4 ,z an alt]native to ! k]*ief %e w\ld we> ov] h] hood a pla9 /raw hat ) a slightly turn$-up brim deck$ ) ribbons4 ,! ,commonweal? br\ght ) x au/]ity ( dress2 sad tones ( dull br[n & grey receiv+ popul> patronage1 :ile ! =mal l95 cuffs1 coll>1 & cap 7 ubiquit\s4 ,a pla9 mat]ial =m$ ! ov]-skirt ( _m a dress :i* bore a /rip$ "u-skirt1 tight sleeves1 & a pla91 tightly-fitt+ bodice4 ,cuffs & coll>s grew wid]1 ! l95 apron _h two pockets1 & !re 0 add$ to co/ume a circul> cape ( dull s]ge4 ,! high felt hat 0 adorn$ simply by a pla9 b& ( ribbon4 ,dur+ ! ,re/oration1 col\r ass]t$ itself once m1 & dress 0 aga9 pretty1 a comm5dable example hav+ a blue l95 skirt ) a b& ( fancy mat]ial r\nd ! hem1 a full basque1 & a l95 coll>1 ! front adorn$ ) braid1 ! apron /rip$4 ,/ripes 7 q a feature ( fa%ion !n & 9 ! lat] days ( ,william ,,iii41 :5 ! /rip$ skirt w\ld be adorn$ ) a deep b& ( pla9 mat]ial trimm$ ) braid1 ! /rip$ bodice cut ,v-%ap$ to %[ a ve/ ( pleat$ l951 ! sleeves be+ pla9 ) l95 cuffs1 ! apron ( l951 & ! clo? hood & cape cut 9 "o piece4 ,fancy mat]ials 7 made 9 ! reign ( ,anne1 :5 %ort skirts frequ5tly 7 compos$ ( /ripes b5ea? a pla9 ov]-skirt bun*$ on ! hips4 ,! bodice !n came out 9 ! glory ( a musl9 fi*u1 & ! long sleeves 7 turn$ back to ! elb[1 ! cap 0 ( musl9 too1 ) a full cr[n & gauff]$ edge4 ,a *>m+ picture ( a c\ntry-woman ( #agaa %[s h] we>+ a tuck$-up g[n ) %ort loose sleeves1 a pair ( /iff /ays1 & an apron1 ) high-heel$ %oes & a l[ cap turn$ up 9 front4 ,caps yield$ place to hats = ! l[] ord]s 9 ! eighte5? c5tury1 :5 pla9 flat /raw hats became ! only we>1 be+ recognis$ z s]v+ a useful purpose 9 ! c>ry+ ( fruit & fi%4 ,cretonne fir/ enjoy$ a %>e ( recognition 9 ! reign ( ,george ,i41 :5 ! "u-skirts 7 made ( ?is 9 /ripes1 ga!r$ at ! wai/1 & ov] ^! 0 worn a s]ge skirt tuck$ up at ! hips4 ,! tight-fitt+ bodice 0 ( s]ge lac$ 9 front1 cut l[ 9 ! neck1 & outl9$ ) a loosely-knott$ h&k]*ief1 ! full sleeves be+ turn$ back bel[ ! elb[s4 ,9 glanc+ ?r\gh ! records1 ,i f9d 9 ! reign ( ,george ,,ii4 b little *ange f ?is /ate ( affairs4 ,! bodice 0 lac$ ov] a :ite l95 *emisette1 & f9i%$ ) a deep coll> & tight sleeves ) frills ( musl9 at ! elb[1 ! apron ) its two pockets be+ ornam5t$ ) a deep b& ( embroid]$ musl94 ,! hair1 h[ev]1 receiv$ m att5tion1 be+ ti$ r\nd ) a ribbon "u a musl9 cap1 :ile a /raw hat 0 worn ov] x :5 ! fair maids took _! walks abroad4 ,! modi% m&ate 0 rev]s$ 9 ! foll[+ reign1 :5 ! "u-skirt 0 ( s]ge ) ! ov]-skirt ( *9tz ga!r$ on to ! bodice1 :i* 0 full at ! back & op5$ 9 ! front1 ! bodice be+ fur!r adorn$ by lac+s ov] a velvet ve/1 cut l[1 ) a musl9 fi*u to put ! f9i%+ t\* & :ite musl9 frills appe>+ to adorn ! tight sleeves4 ,! apron ( musl9 _h a l>ge pocket on ! "r side1 & ! /raw hat 0 inv>iably trimm$ ) a b[ ( ribbon1 also plac$ on ! "r side4 ,:5 ,george ,,iv4 0 k+ ! full skirt 0 ga!r$ on to ! %ort bodice all r\nd b5ea? a b& ( ribbon1 :i* f9i%$ at ! back to conceal ! fact4 ,! musl9 fi*u 0 g5]ally adopt$1 padd$ rolls 7 on ! %\ld]s1 ! :ite l95 apron 0 long1 & ! head b[$ itself to ! fasc9ations ( ! bonnet ( drawn :ite cambric4 ,a full wooll5 skirt1 ga!r$ r\nd ! wai/1 0 ! popul> co/ume 9 ! "t ( ,william ,,iv41 :5 ! tight bodice button$ d[n ! front1 a triple cape atta*$ to a b& ( ribbon & fa/5$ 9 ! front 0 ?r[n ov] ! %\ld]s1 & ribbon prov$ itself z s]viceable z becom+ ov] ! cr[n ( ! /raw hat1 :]e x 0 plac$ to secure x firmly to its we>]4 ,my inve/igations by ! way ( ,scot* & ,iri% & ,wel% peasants h be5 few1 b ! details ( "o mod]n repres5tative ,iri% peasant's dress ,i c quote z includ+ a %ort skirt ( l9sey turn$ up ov] a petticoat ( r$ or "s o!r bright col\r1 ) ! bodice belt$ r\nd ! wai/ & lac$ d[n ! front1 worn b5ea? a long frieze cloak ) cap & hood2 ! head is cov]$ ) a k]*ief4 ,( imp]i%able memory is ! r$ ,connem>a colle5 cloak2 & ! native ,wel% dress is n less de> to ! lov]s ( ! picturesque1 ) its high po9t$ hat worn above a frill$ lawn cap1 ! wor/$ %awl1 ! %ort petticoat1 & :ite apron & trim %oes4 ,! ,highl& dress 0 9 its orig9al =m a *equ]$ cov]+ kn[n z a breconfeile1 a pla9 piece ( t>tan two y>ds wide & six y>ds 9 l5g? plac$ r\nd ! wai/ 9 folds1 & held 9 position by a lea!r belt4 ,! plaid 0 fa/5$ on ! left %\ld] by a l>ge broo*1 ! "r end hang+ d[n long] ?an ! left1 be+ tuck$ into ! belt1 :ile ! "r arm 0 left uncov]$ save 9 ! sev]e/ wea!r1 :5 ! plaid 0 ?r[n ov] ! :ole body4 ,?is 0 ! we>1 until ! end ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 ( ,l[l&]s & ,highl&]s alike4 ,! ,scot*1 & ! ,iri% too1 _h a root$ antipa?y to foot-ge>1 pref]r+ to c>ry _! %oes & /ock+s r ?an p]mit !m to d _! prop] duties1 & :5 ! etiquette ( *ur*-go+ dem&$ ! sacrifice ( ?is incl9ation1 !y yield$ only dur+ ! s]vice1 aft]w>ds sitt+ on any conv5i5t grave/one to remove ! unwelcome imp$im5ts4 ,! national head-dress ( ! ,highl&]s is ! r\nd flat bonnet ( blue clo?1 ) an eagle's fea!r2 & = _m c5turies m5 & wom5 wore plaids alike1 ! usual col\rs be+ :ite /rip$ ) r$1 black1 or blue1 ! m5's /ock+s mat*+ ^!4 ,?9k+ s]i\sly ov] ! dress ( ! peasant 9 ! ,nor?1 ,s\?1 ,ea/1 & ,we/1 ,i am tempt$ to prote/ t progression has meant retrogression1 & t ! mod]n c\ntry-woman1 ) h] indiscreet lace-trimm$ bl\se reveal+ ! ragg$ belt ( h] mud-col\r$ petticoat1 makes a sorry figure 9 comp>ison ) h] si/]-toil] ( ! pa/2 & ,i recall sorr[fully ev5 ?is description ( an e>ly ,victorian peasant-woman's dress :i* reads3 ,to consi/ ( a full skirt ( pr9t ga!r$ into a b& at ! wai/2 !re is a full crossov]-bodice ov] a full ve/ ( ! same mat]ial1 f9i%$ ) a frill at ! neck4 ,! sleeves are full above ! elb[ ) two puffs1 & f ^! are tight to ! wri/s1 & a musl9 mob-cap is worn ) a b[ ( ribbon 9 front4 ,! c\ntry-woman :o dwells 9 ! indulg5t times ( ,edw>d ,,vii4 %\ld pond] ov] ! picture1 & rep5t ( h] %apeless bodice divorc$ f h] unsympa!tic skirt1 & h] clo? cricket cap held by aggressive p9s above a gr\p ( tortur$ wisps ( hair b\nd 9 /eel bondage to a cruel curl]4 ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,( ,,"s ,,=eign ,,peasants ,i regret1 f ! practical z well z ! arti/ic po9t ( view1 ! ?reat5$ disappe>ance ( local col\r+1 z emphasis$ by ! *>act]i/ic co/ume ( ! p1 = ,i am conv9c$ t ! adoption ( a uni=m /yle ( dress by a community greatly fur!rs ! cause ( neatness & economy4 ,no opportunity be+ af=d$ = ! display ( p]sonal bad ta/e1 extravagance is disc\rag$1 & ! spick & span are virtues :i* may di/+ui% ! c>eful f ! slatt]nly1 & reveal mu* to ! /ud5t ( "*4 ,a love ( col\r & p]sonal adornm5t is inh]5t 9 ! human race1 & x is to be regrett$ t ! rel5tless advance ( comm]ce is responsible = ! blott+ out ( a c\ntry's individuality1 & r$uc+ all places to ! same dead level ( monotony4 ,diff]+ slightly b di/9ctly ) ! locality1 ! dress ( ! peasants ( ,brittany is second 9 int]e/ to none 9 ,europe4 ,?is fact1 c\pl$ ) an in/9ctive cons]vatism common to ^? :o g d[n to ! sea 9 %ips1 is1 no d\bt1 acc\ntable = ! t5acity ) :i* ! ,bretons cl+ to _! national co/ume1 be>+ x ) !m :5 !y emigrate & donn+ x on gala occasions 9 ! new l&4 ,peculi> to ! peasant ( ,bignon is a :ite flannel petticoat1 ! hem surm\nt$ by a sc>let b&4 ,pleat$ at ! wai/1 x jo9s a bodice fa%ion$ f bright r$ clo?1 :i* fits closely up to ! ?roat & is edg$ ) black velvet embroid]$ 9 v>i\s col\r$ wor/$s1 turn$-back cuffs to mat* f9i%+ ! tight elb[-sleeves2 :ile ! apron1 9 a d>k tone ( mulb]ry1 fa/5s by means ( a sa% ti$ 9 a b[ at ! side4 ,cov]+ ! head is a small cap ( :ite l951 :i* s]ves z f\ndation = a conical erection contriv$ f a co>se />*$ texture resembl+ br[n holl&4 ,to ?is is atta*$ a pair ( long flaps1 :i* c be p9n$ up or left hang+ accord+ to ! ta/e ( ! we>]4 ,! well-to-d possess a necklace ( amb] & black beads1 & a gold & ebony crucifix susp5d$ f a n>r[ black velvet ribbon4 ,if dress be an outw>d & visible sign ( "*1 !n %\ld ! p ( ,quimp] be ! gaye/ ( ! gay4 ,! co/ume ( ! di/rict consi/s ( a lac$ jacket ) tight elb[-sleeves1 supplem5t$ by full :ite ones :i* rea* to ! wri/1 & a %ort petticoat ( ample proportions4 ,blue is a fav\rite %ade = bo? corsage & skirt1 :i* are frequ5tly glorifi$ by ! addition ( r$ & gold lace4 ,blue & p9k inspire ! sleeves1 ! "u ones be+ ( :ite1 ti$1 au poignet1 ) yell[ ribbon4 ,! *emisette displays a multi-col\r$ coll>1 & ! apron is 9 a vivid tone ( orange4 ,! ,morbihan dep>tm5t is di/+ui%$ by a v>iety ( head-dresses1 "s ( :i* are exce$+ly high1 :ile all fit closely r\nd ! face1 & _m display p5d5t lappets beh9d4 ,odd1 b by no means unbecom+1 is ! co/ume ( ! ,norm&y peasant4 ,! skirt is ( /rip$ wooll5 mat]ial1 p>tially conceal$ b5ea? a r$ & blue apron4 ,( black1 :ite1 r$1 or m>oon wor/$1 ! bodice boa/s long sleeves1 "s ( :i* are sc>let 9 col\r f wri/ to elb[ & dull cl>et to ! %\ld]1 a small fr+$ %awl hid+ ! upp] portion ( ! arm4 ,q ! mo/ /rik+ & important feature is ! b\rgo94 ,evolv$ f /iff :ite musl9 drawn ov] a c>dbo>d %ape1 x is v high 9 ! cr[n1 ! wide brim n>r[+ t[>ds ! back1 :5ce dangle two lace /ream]s4 ,! hair is turn$ up 9 a mann] be/ describ$ z clubb$1 ! ends disappe>+ b5ea? ! cap1 :ile on fte-days ! head-dress is compos$ ( ! v f9e/ musl91 elaborately trimm$ ) lace1 & fa/5$ by means ( a velvet /rap pass$ "u ! *9 or across ! =ehead4 ,! b\rgo9 is enc\nt]$ 9 its mo/ ornate =m1 h[ev]1 9 ! ,pays de ,caux1 :]e x is rev]5tly reg>d$ z an heirloom & h&$ d[n f g5]ation to g5]ation4 ,wond]fully & fe>fully made1 ! upp] portion is ( light blue pa/ebo>d /rewn ) gold t9sel fl[]s1 & ruffl$ ) musl9 bord]$ ) lace4 ,! brim is ( sc>let velvet1 lappets float+ beh9d1 & a *9-/rap hold+ x 9 place4 ,unlike ! wom5 ( ,brittany1 :o c>efully conceal all traces ( hair1 ! ,norm&y peasant arranges h]s 9 coquetti% curls on ! temples4 ,despite _! long & romantic association ) ! c\ntry1 & ! impress !y left on its ar*itecture & its hi/ory1 ! influ5ce ( ! ,moors is 9 n[ise app>5t 9 ! dress ( ! ,spani% peasantry4 ,! p ( ! ,p59sula manage to unite 9 admirable fa%ion ! practical ) ! picturesque1 z express$ by ! co/umes peculi> to ! diff]5t prov9ces4 ,:at1 = in/ance1 c\ld be m happily conceiv$ ?an ! dress ( a ,ca/ilian peasant8 ,! %ort sleeveless coat1 or bol]o1 consi/s ( col\r$ cotton edg$ ) an appliqu design 9 imitation ( co>se braid4 ,?is is worn 9 conjunction ) a %irt ( :ite cotton conspicu\s = a /&-up coll> & sleeves to ! elb[1 a wide r$ sa% encircl+ ! wai/1 :]e x is held firmly 9 place by a n>r[ lea!r belt on :i* ! we>]'s "n1 or t ( 8 fiance1 is embroid]$4 ,! tight knick]bock]s are ( s]viceable texture1 g>t]$ at ! knee1 ea* %[+ f\r silv] or gilt buttons 9 a r[ up ! outside ( ! leg4 ,! gait]s comb9e ! duty ( /ock+s1 & are supplem5t$ by l[1 ?ick-sol$ s&als1 t]m$ alp>gats or esp>dez1 ti$ r\nd ! ankle ) gay ribbons4 ,! fte co/ume ( ! wom5 embraces a volum9\s skirt ( f9e clo?1 ext5d+ bel[ ! knees & trimm$ ab\t ! bottom ) wide & n>r[ b&s ( black ribbon velvet1 & an apron1 likewise ( clo?1 b 9 a contra/+ col\r1 bord]$ ) gold lace or passem5t]ie4 ,! closely-fitt+ jacket rea*es to ! hips2 ! seams are outl9$ 9 gold lace1 & ! sleeves sla%$ op5 f ! elb[ to ! wri/ to reveal :ite "u-sleeves belong+ to ! *emisette1 a second glimpse ( :i* is caught at ! neck 9 front4 ,an imm5sely long coral *a9 is w\nd c\ntless times ab\t ! ?roat1 & dangl+ f x are sacr$ m$allions & v>i\sly siz$ crosses1 ! :ole =m+ a pla/ron :i* desc5ds to ! wai/4 ,:ite cotton /ock+s are usual--r$ ones indicat+ a bride--& black lea!r %oes reliev$ ) ribbon rosettes4 ,! hair is plait$1 ti$ ) black velvet1 & all[$ to hang d[n beh9d1 & ! mitre-%ap$ hat is ( black velvet trimm$ up ea* side ) a s]ri$ r[ ( silv] buttons4 ,9 ,val5cia ! peasantry ( bo? sexes affect s&als lac$ up ! leg4 ,! wom5 we> a %ort1 brightly col\r$ skirt & an apron1 ! l[] portion ( :i* is 9 "o %ade & ! upp] 9 ano!r1 ! latt] be+ brilliantly embroid]$4 ,! tight bodice laces 9 front across a :ite *emisette1 & displays long1 closely-fitt+ sleeves1 :ile ! head is enclos$ 9 a :ite bonnet :i* =ms a frill r\nd ! neck1 & is surm\nt$ by a hat ) a %all[ cr[n1 & a brim %ap$ l an inv]t$ sauc]4 ,! dress ( ! m5 is correspond+ly simple1 compris+ a light-blue l95 wai/coat button$ up to ! *91 :]e x is f9i%$ ) a :ite coll>1 a sa%1 & a %ort op5 coat1 rem>kable = buttons d[n bo? sides4 ,! tr\s]s t]m9ate at ! calf1 & a r$ h&k]*ief is w\nd r\nd ! head4 ,9 ! m\nta9 fa/nesses ( ,catalonia1 ! wom5 we>1 9 lieu ( a bonnet1 a :ite veil1 :i* falls to ! wai/ beh9d1 & a crossov] fi*u fa%ion$ ( cotton1 & *iefly notable = a decorative bord] 9 a contra/+ %ade4 ,little is se5 ( ! bodice beyond ! tight sleeves1 :i* f9i% at ! wri/ ) a b& ( black velvet & a silv] buckle1 & ! ankle-l5g? skirt is almo/ conceal$ by a full r\nd apron4 ,all ! jewell]y common to ! di/rict is exceptionally massive & set ) r$ or gre5 /ones1 ! p5d5t e>-r+s ( gold or silv] be+ s heavy t !y h to be support$ by cords1 le/ !y %\ld te> ! fle%4 ,a male peasant belong+ to ! same locality dons a %ort op5 coat ( light-blue velvet1 long-sleev$ & boa/+ dim9utive rev]s & silv] buttons4 ,! :ite cotton %irt introduces a turn$-d[n coll> & a gaily-col\r$ cravat1 ti$ 9 a sailor's knot & drawn ?r\gh a silv] r+1 & ! wai/coat consi/s ( /rip$ r$ & :ite calico1 :ile a sc>let sa% supports tight knick]bock]s ( blue velvet4 ,^! are met by legg+s ( tan lea!r1 ! l[ %oes be+ atta*$ by means ( ?ongs1 aft] ! /yle ( s&als4 ,%ap$ some:at l a fool's cap1 ! peak ( ! sc>let head-dress is roll$ ov] 9 front to =m a wide flap imm$iately above ! br[s1 a la/ t\* be+ giv5 by a /rip$ r$ & yell[ sc>f ?r[n ov] ! left %\ld]1 ! ends edg$ ) deep fr+e & p5d5t balls4 ,= ! mayor1 or t important local dignit>y ! driv] ( ! dilig5ce1 ! back ( ! coat is embroid]$ ) a pot ( fl[]s 9 florid t9ts1 :ile ano!r badge ( (fice1 p]ta9+ to ! same function>ies1 is a pat* ( sc>let or gre5 clo? on ei!r elb[4 ,a peasant woman ( ,a/urias1 is di/+ui%$ by a full skirt bel[ ! knees1 & a %ort n>r[ apron ( black velvet trac$ ) a *eck$ design 9 silv] braid4 ,a joy\sly-patt]n$ cotton h&k]*ief is arrang$ on ! head1 & ti$ 9 a butt]fly b[ 9 front1 & ! tight bodice boa/s closely-fitt+ sleeves1 turn$ back ) black velvet cuffs embroid]$ 9 a v>iety ( brilliant %ades1 a small fr+$ %awl cross+ at ! bu/ & ty+ at ! wai/ beh9d4 ,:ite ?read /ock+s & black %oes complete ! picture4 ,illu/ration3 ,,albanian ,,peasants4 ,! m]e m5tion ( ! ^w ,switz]l& is suffici5t to conjure up a m$ley ( conflict+ emotions4 ,?\ghts ( ,ne/l's milk1 ,pet]'s *ocolate1 ,cook's p>ties1 & picture po/-c>ds adorn$ ) edelweiss1 /ruggle to oblit]ate memories ( maje/ic m\nta9s ^: ho>y peaks pi]ce ! calm blue ( a cl\dless sky1 ( sunsets ( awful beauty1 & ( sunrises :i* flood ! cold :ite ,alps ) roseate light1 *ang+ ! silv] ( ! lakes to burni%$ gold4 ,homeli] visions arise ( wood5 *alets da9tily p]*$ high on ! m\nta9 side1 or l[ 9 ! valley1 ( milk & honey1 :ite butt] & black bread1 & ( fair-hair$ waitresses 9 national co/ume4 ,ea* canton has its di/9ctive dress4 ,! peasant wom5 ( ,luc]ne we> l>ge flat hats ( smoo? /raw1 ! cr[n encircl$ by b[s ( ribbon int]rupt$ by a bun* ( fl[]s4 ,! tri-col\r$ skirt b>ely cov]s ! knee1 :]e x is met by :ite /ock+s1 & ! corselet displays lace1 embroid]y1 & brass or silv] buttons4 ,! :ite *emisette vaunts full %ort sleeves1 & fits up to ! ?roat1 :]e x is occasionally f9i%$ ) a broad frill1 :ile ! hair is drawn (f ! =ehead & hangs d[n ! back 9 two plaits4 ,9 ,sol]ne ! dress ( ! fem99e portion ( ! community includes a :ite petticoat edg$ ) p9k1 :i* j %[s b5ea? a black skirt embroid]$ ) r$1 :ile r\nd ! neck is knott$ a black silk k]*ief1 ! bodice be+ r$ & gre5 & ! *emisette ( :ite musl9 ) wide sleeves to ! elb[4 ,sn[y musl9 inspires ! l>ge cap ) its gauff]$ frill1 o!r details be+ :ite /ock+s1 ribbon g>t]s1 & black %oes lac$ ) sc>let4 ,possibly ! prettie/ co/ume ( all is to be f\nd 9 ! ,canton ( ,/4 ,gall4 ,on ,sundays & fte-days x comprises a small :ite musl9 cap1 l9$ ) gre5 silk & display+ a crimson cr[n4 ,! hair is drawn into a s+le plait at ! back ( ! head1 fa/5$ ) long gold or silv] p9s4 ,! sn[y *emisette f9i%es ) a mod]ately-siz$ ruffle at ! ?roat1 & disappe>s into a velvet /oma*]1 ! little op5 jacket be>+ a bord] ( col\r$ ribbons4 ,q ! mo/ gaudy dress is t *>act]i/ic ( ,grison4 ,! bodice is ( bright orange1 lac$ ) gre5 ribbon ov] a blue /oma*]1 & ! skirt is 9 a p5etrat+ tone ( violet hemm$ ) gre51 9 brilliant contra/ to r$ /ock+s work$ ) :ite clocks4 ,! effect is happily modifi$ by a black lace cap1 :i* =ms a po9t on ! =ehead & is ti$ "u ! *94 ,to ^? 9 que/ ( ! em95tly becom+1 ! co/ume ( ! wom5 ( ,unt]wald5 comm5ds itself4 ,! hair is p>t$ 9 front1 & hangs d[n beh9d 9 two plaits jo9$ by a species ( slide 9 silv]4 ,! %ort full skirt is evolv$ f co>se br[n mat]ial1 ! /ock+s are blue & ! %oes black1 ) metal heels & ribbon b[s4 ,! apron is provid$ ) a sc>let bib1 & ! sleeveless corsage is fill$ 9 ) a :ite *emisette1 ) puff$ elb[-sleeves t]m9at+ 9 black velvet b&s & frills ( lace4 ,ab\t ! neck is a deep filigree silv] coll>1 f :i* hang two enorm\s silv] p5dants1 "o re/+ on ! bu/ at ei!r side4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,au/rian ,,peasant-,,bride ,,9 ,,black4 ,! typical ,roman peasant woman makes a picturesque figure 9 a skirt ( "s d>k mat]ial & an apron brightly trimm$ ) two broadi% b&s ( embroid]y1 "o appe>+ imm$iately bel[ ! hips & ! o!r at ! knees4 ,! tight1 sleeveless corsage laces beh9d1 & is support$ by n>r[ %\ld]-/raps1 :ile ! :ite *emisette has long sleeves & is l[ at ! ?roat4 ,ord9>ily ! hair is all[$ to hang loosely b5ea? a head-dress fa%ion$ f a l5g? ( sn[y l951 fold$ 9 su* a way z to =m a n>r[ /rip1 :i* is p9n$ at ! temples & flung back to hang d[n beh9d4 ,all b ! v poore/ we> necklaces1 p5d5t e>-r+s1 *a9s & crosses4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,croatian ,,peasant4 ,! co/ume ( ! ,tra/av]9i1 al?\gh !y are inhabitants ( ! same city1 diff]s some:at f t ( ! ,romans4 ,! wom5 plait _! hair1 decorate x ) silv] bodk9s1 & conf9e x 9 a silk net4 ,on gala days !y don velvet bodices lac$ ) gold1 & silk skirts1 :i* may be :ite to mat* ! *emisette1 or col\r$1 an ess5tial accessory be+ a sc>let apron4 ,! m5 also we> silk nets1 _! jackets be+ ( black velvet enliv5$ by r$ silk sa%es1 :ile _! black %oes vaunt l>ge silv] buckles4 ,9 "s ( ! ,pontifical ,/ates !re is /rik+ resemblance betwe5 ! dress common to ! di/rict & t associat$ ) ! ,iri% peasantry4 ,! wom5 tie k]*iefs on _! heads 9 ! same way z _! ,hib]nian si/]s1 a second po9t ( simil>ity exi/+ 9 ! hood$ cloaks4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,croatian ,,peasant4 ,/rangely incongru\s ?\gh x seems1 :5 tak5 9 conjunction ) _! sunny clime & joy\s levity ( temp]am5t1 ! peasantry ( ,flor5ce exhibit a m>k$ pr$ilection = black4 ,on fte-days ! ,tuscans don a t9y hat cock$ at an acute angle ov] ! left e>1 ! hair at ! o!r side be+ pr(usely decorat$ ) pe>ls or an ornam5tal comb4 ,!y also display a pretty ta/e 9 jewell]y1 we>+ pe>l e>-r+s & pe>l & coral necklaces1 o!r articles ( attire includ+ black velvet slipp]s1 & sleeveless bodices lac$ ) ribbon ov] a :ite *emisette4 ,occasionally ! hair is turn$ up 9 a knot b5ea? a veil :i* hangs d[n beh9d1 b1 :5 work+ or go+ to m>ket1 ! wom5 imprison x 9 a silk5 me% adorn$ ) tassels1 ! latt] be+ sometimes ( gold & silv]4 ,! ,bolognese peasant wom5 cont9ue fai?ful to ! tradition ( ! z5dada1 a veil fall+ f ! plait$ hair & drap$ ov] ! %\ld]s 9 graceful fa%ion4 ,coral is greatly 9 dem& = purposes ( adornm5t1 & combs & p9s are lib]ally employ$ to decorate ! hair4 ,s int5se is h] love = f9]y1 t 9 ,lomb>dy x is a common occurr5ce = a peasant woman to sp5d all h] e>n+s ^u jewell]y1 go+ b>efoot ! :ile4 ,ano!r weakness ( h]s takes ! direction ( l>ge ,g]man fans 9 black & gold4 ,^! are mu* 9 evid5ce at all fe/ivities 9 ,tur94 ,bright col\rs are pref]r$ to sombre ones1 & x is easy to di/+ui% girls f m>ri$ wom51 z ! latt] h squ>e l95 veils1 :ile ! =m] all[ _! hair to be se51 braid+ x1 & fa/5+ x ) a comb or =midable-look+ p94 ,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,corfu ,,to ,,day4 ,economical & self-d5y+ ?\gh %e may be 9 o!r respects1 ! peasant woman ( ,g5oa is recklessly extravagant ! mom5t x is a "q ( jewell]y4 ,to :at l5g?s h] passion = display c>ries h] may be gaug$ f ! fact t :5 %e is go+ to be m>ri$ %e ?9ks no?+ ( pay+ sev5 or eight hundr$ francs = a necklace4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,greek ,,peasant ,,9 ,,m$i,,val ,,days4 ,n only are ! ,croatian wom5 not$ = _! unusual beauty ( face & =m1 !y are equally fam\s = _! indu/ry1 & ! national co/ume is a m>vel ( ne$lework4 ,! example illu/rat$ on page #abd %[s embroid]y play+ its "p on ! sleeves1 ! full skirt1 & ! bodice4 ,! *emisette is ( :ite lawn1 & jewels are ar\nd ! neck1 & fl[]s wrea! ! head ov] a lawn cap :i* conceals ! hair4 ,! sket* ( ! ,croatian man on page #abe %[s him 9 a hat ( black felt1 a coat ( :ite bord]$ ) blue1 & a cape l9$ ) r$1 edg$ ) a patt]n =m$ by an application ( r$ clo?4 ,a m elaborate edition ( ?is dress p]mits a gold fr+e on ! l[ cr[n ( ! hat1 & a r$ fr+e on a deep lea!r p\* :i* is held on ! left hip by a lea!r /rap4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,greek ,,peasant4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,greek ,,peasant ,,woman4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,greek ,,brig&4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,greek ,,prie/4 ,dep>t+ f ! classical sev]ity ( palla & peplum1 ! dress ( mod]n ,greece has no?+ 9 common ) t ( a p :o scal$ ! heights ( immortality 9 ! simple/ ( g>bs4 ,peasant wom5 we> spangl$ petticoats ( blue or p9k silk1 a long-wai/$ co/ume ( purple velvet embroid]$ 9 gold1 high-heel$ %oes :i* display silv] buckles1 & a k]*ief drap$ on ! plait$ hair4 ,! m5 resemble ! typical /age brig&1 9 a d\ble-brea/$ wai/coat ( blue or m>oon velvet edg$ ) gold lace1 a r[ ( gold or silv] buttons runn+ f ei!r %\ld] to meet at ! wai/1 :i* is encircl$ by a brilliantly col\r$ sa%4 ,a di/+ui%+ note is giv5 by ! ?oraki1 a *>act]i/ic g>m5t ( blue cotton1 sugge/+ 9 =m a /iff sack wid] at ! bottom ?an ! top1 ) holes at ! corn]s = ! legs to pass ?r\gh4 ,a sub/itute = ?is is a :ite petticoat to ! knees1 & o!r accessories are :ite /ock+s & black %oes ) l>ge silv] buckles4 ,"s resemblance to ! co/ume ( anci5t ,greece may be trac$ 9 ! dress ( ! %eph]ds1 :o we> cloaks ( %eep's wool or goat's hair1 ) b>e feet encas$ 9 s&als ( untann$ lea!r /rapp$ across ! in/ep & up ! l[] portion ( ! leg4 ,?us attir$1 might ! ,pyrrhian h climb$ ^? m\nta9s :i* look$ on ,m>a?on1 z ,m>a?on look$ on ! sea4 ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,( ,,"s ,,=eign ,,peasants 7cont9u$7 ,9 ,russia ! conv5tion ( dress may n s]ve z an index to ! m9d ( ! c\ntry1 = ! peasant is all[$ to %>e ) ! pr9ce a fancy = gold1 col\r$ embroid]y1 & silk & jewels1 & x has n yet become necess>y = ! ,duma to include an advocate 9 ! cause ( co/ume4 ,! hi/ory ( ,russia is inscrib$ ^u ! dress ( its p4 ,travell+ f nor? to s\? & f ea/ to we/1 ! co/umes ( ! peasantry ev]y:]e be> ! impress ( ! political vicissitudes ?r\gh :i* ! p>ticul> locality has pass$4 ,?is1 c\pl$ ) ! fact t no empire 9 ! _w is made up ( su* an agglom]ation ( va/ly diff]5t races1 acc\nts = ! imm5se div]sity ( /yles4 ,to ga9 "s idea ( ! +r$i5ts :i* g to make up ! s>torial pot-p\rri1 "o has b to pay a visit to ! great annual fair at ,nijni ,novgorod4 ,!re ,cossack rubs %\ld]s ) ,f9n1 ,jew ) ,lapl&]1 ,t>t> ) ,slav1 ,p]sian1 ,sib]ian1 ,bulg>ian1 & ,circassian add+ to ! int]e/ ( ! sc5e & ! ,babel ( tongues4 ,z ev]y?+ ,russian leads up to ! "o =bidd51 & !re=e burn+1 "q1 politics1 x is impossible ev5 to treat ( ! national co/ume )\t t\*+ lightly ^u ^? crises :i* det]m9$ ! ultimate cut ( a sleeve or ! %ape ( a head-dress4 ,long ago ,byzantium impos$ its religion & its fa%ions ^u its great nor!rn neighb\r4 ,bo? 7 readily adopt$ by ,russia1 & a significant side-light is ?r[n ^u ! national "* by ! fact t :51 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 ! ,mongolian invasion rev]s$ ! political situation1 ! vanqui%$ adopt$ ! dress ( _! conqu]ors1 b n _! fai?4 ,?is is /rictly true ( all b ! sov]eigns1 ^: co/ume rema9$ m or less fai?ful to tradition1 & nev] entirely dep>t$ f ! ,byzantium orig9al4 ,al?\gh ,byzantium dictat$ ! fa%ions ( ! classes1 ! masses 7 unaffect$ !reby1 & ! co/umes ( ! s]fs trace _! s\rce to ,slav & ,t>t>1 accord+ to ! di/rict4 ,! fir/ ?+s to impress ! =eign] are ! gorge\s nature ( ! fte dresses worn by ! wom51 & ! lavi% use ( gold trimm+4 ,?is love ( gold1 z appli$ to decorative purposes1 w\ld appe> inh]5t 9 ! ,russian "*1 reveal+ itself 9 ! heavy gild+ on ! icons & ! _m glitt]+ domes ( ,mosc[ & ,/4 ,pet]sburg4 ,m sugge/ive ( a fairy pr9cess ?an ( a peasant is ! gala toilet ( ! female population ( ,tv]4 ,contriv$ f ?ick silk %ot ) gold1 ! wide r\nd skirt is pleat$ beh9d1 ! op5+ d[n ! front & ! hem bord]$ ) gold1 :ile ! :ite *emisette vaunts puff$ elb[-sleeves f9i%$ ) frills1 ?ree r[s ( pe>ls encircl+ ! coll>less neck4 ,9 summ] "t ! little s>afan1 or1 = want ( a bett] t]m1 jacket1 is made )\t sleeves & resembles a %ort full petticoat t /icks out1 z ?\gh /iff5$1 at ! bottom4 ,x1 too1 is ( brightly col\r$ silk1 & desc5ds f ! armpits to bel[ ! hips1 be+ support$ by gold %\ld]-/raps1 an edg+ ( gold galon runn+ r\nd ! bottom & up ! fronts4 ,! head-dress consi/s ( a species ( gilt diadem set ) artificial gems 9 col\r$ glass4 ,?is encircles ! base ( an erection ( /iff5$ calico1 rem9isc5t 9 %ape ( ! glass %ades design$ to protect ^? floral atrocities 9 ,b]l9-wool & wax t 7 s de> to ! he>t ( ! e>ly ,victorian h\sewife4 ,conceal+ ! /ructure is a volum9\s veil ( :ite silk or gauze1 /rip$ or /rewn ) fl[]s1 & inv>iably bord]$ ) gold4 ,! duty ( gloves is p]=m$ by cas+s ( velvet & sable1 :i* cov] ! back ( ! h& & enclose ! f+]-tips1 :ile leav+ ! palm & ?umb free4 ,/ill m beautiful & sumptu\s is ! fte dress ( ! wom5 ( ,torjok4 ,!y we> a s+ul> head-dress kn[n z kokos*9k1 :i*1 lit]ally translat$1 signifies ! cre/ ( a h51 ! :y & :]e=e ( ! "n be+ a riddle beyond ! p[] ( ! av]age intellig5ce to solve4 ,modell$ on ! l9es ( a rev]s$ funnel1 ! tall sl5d] cr[n ( ! kokos*9k is :ite1 encircl$ by n>r[ b&s ( gold1 & surm\nt$ 9 ! case ( m>ri$ wom5 by a metal ornam5t :i* may be triangul>1 oval1 r\nd1 or cresc5t-%ap$4 ,! only rule f :i* no dep>ture may be made is t ! cr[n be absolutely v]tical1 :]eas ! cr[n common to ! sp9/] ( ! community slants abruptly t[>ds ! front4 ,all )\t exception display a brim compos$ ( an out/&+ frill ( :ite lace encru/$ ) se$ pe>ls1 & an enorm\s veil ( :ite gauze embroid]$ & edg$ ) gold1 :i* is atta*$ to ! top ( ! kokos*9k & floats ov] ! %\ld]s1 ! two po9ts dipp+ to t\* ! gr\nd at ei!r side4 ,^! veils are n1 z might easily be suppos$1 ( ,mohamm$an orig91 nor are !y ev5 remotely associat$ ) romance4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 no?+ c\ld well be m prosaic ?an _! hi/ory1 = !y 7 fir/ adopt$ z a protection aga9/ ! plague ( flies ) :i* ! di/rict is infe/$ 9 w>m wea!r4 ,pre-em95tly picturesque1 ! co/ume !y %r\d reveals a skirt ( su* g5]\s proportions z to recall memories ( ! cr9ol9e4 ,?is is ( silk1 & buttons d[n ! front1 & x is n only edg$ ) gold1 b be>s an all-ov] patt]n trac$ 9 gold galon4 ,! loose sleeveless jacket t]m9ates bel[ ! wai/1 :]e x /&s out /iffly1 & is ( simil> texture1 treat$ 9 equally lavi% /yle ) gold1 ! huge leg-o'-mutton sleeves belong+ to ! :ite *emisette be+ ri*ly embroid]$ 9 gold ?read4 ,! ?roat is hidd5 by an unyield+ cravat ( :ite taffetas rul$ ) f9e gold cord1 ! %ort ends cross$ "u ! *92 & ! %oes are ( morocco or velvet1 ) a design work$ 9 gold ?reads4 ,9 w9t] ! veil is ab&on$ 9 fav\r ( a %awl ( :ite taffetas fr+$ ) gold1 worn ov] a modifi$ v]sion ( ! summ] kokos*9k1 9 pale blue silk1 embroid]$ ) se$ pe>ls & gold4 ,! all-envelop+ greatcoat is ( clo? or velvet1 edg$ ) fur1 & lapp$ well ov] on ! "r side1 :]e x fa/5s ne> ! %\ld] only4 ,a feature ( ! wrap is ! sleeve1 :i* is n>r[ & ( abnormal l5g?1 t]m9at+ bel[ ! knees 9 a fur cuff1 no h9t be+ all[$ to transpire ( ! h&s ?us jeal\sly gu>d$ f ! unwelcome att5tions ( fro/4 ,! peasant woman ( ,riazan we>s black %oes1 :ite /ock+s ruck$ at ! ankles1 a %orti% skirt ( bright blue cotton1 & a fr+$ apron work$ 9 a v>iety ( col\rs1 notably yell[ & sc>let4 ,! *ief g>m5t is ! ponka1 a loose r\nd coat to ! knees1 v l t ( a ,*9aman1 fa%ion$ f :ite l95 edg$ ) a n>r[ bord] ( r$1 ! wide elb[-sleeves t]m9at+ 9 an in*-deep b& ( ! same4 ,op5 9 front1 ! jacket all[s a lib]al view ( a r$ bl\se1 work$ 9 a *>act]i/ic cross-/it* design 9 brilliant %ades1 ! long bi%op sleeves be+ ( pla9 ,turkey-r$1 f9i%$ ) %all[ frills hemm$ ) blue 9 a tone correspond+ to t ( ! skirt4 ,almo/ impossible to describe 9 words1 ! kits*ka1 or local head-dress1 c be/ be pictur$ z a m9iature v]sion ( ! bonnet *>act]i/ic ( ! ,salvation ,army lass4 ,compos$ ( r$ velvet1 x is neatly drap$ ) a silk k]*ief ! %ade ( ! fea!rs on a pigeon's brea/4 ,f ! back dangle two unequal ends1 "o on top ( ! o!r1 :ite edg$ ) r$1 ! extremities consi/+ ( /iff5$ squ>es ( sc>let passem5t]ie1 trimm$ at ! bottom ) %all[ r$ fr+e4 ,9 /rik+ contra/ to ! types already m5tion$1 ! co/ume ( a ,t>t> woman be>s evid5ce ( h] ,ori5tal desc5t1 ! memory ( :i* %e /rives /ill fur!r to p]petuate by /a9+ h] nails ) h5na & black5+ h] eyebr[s & hair4 ,%e betrays a decid$ pr$ilection = /rip$ silk5 textures1 :i* %e occasionally v>ies 9 fav\r ( a l>ge all-ov] patt]n4 ,h] ord9>y toilet is compos$ ( baggy tr\s]s conceal$ b5ea? a long fl[+ robe ( r$ & :ite figur$ silk1 surm\nt$ by a second %apeless g>m5t to ! knees 9 ! nature ( a coat4 ,! la/ is evolv$ f /rip$ p9k & :ite silk1 & fa/5s ne> ! "r %\ld] ) ?ree small metal buttons set closely toge!r1 :ile ?r\gh ! loosely flapp+ fronts protrudes ! fr+$ end ( a sumptu\sly embroid]$ sa%4 ,cov]+ ! head & %\ld]s is a sweep+ veil ( :ite silk1 p9 /rip$ ) gre51 t falls to ! gr\nd & envelops ! figure aft] ! fa%ion ( a cloak1 slits be+ provid$ = ! h&s to pass ?r\gh2 & al?\gh ! ,t>t>s are ,mohamm$ans by religion1 ! face is left b>e4 ,al?\gh palpably design$ = use r ?an ornam5t1 ! dress ( ! wom5 ( ,kh]son is f> f be+ :olly unattractive4 ,a :ite k]*ief1 drawn ov] ! head1 falls 9 po9ts on ! %\ld]s1 conceal+ ! hair1 b leav+ ! e>s expos$ to %[ dangl+ e>-r+s4 ,! *emisette ( ?ick :ite cotton introduces a t\* ( col\r at ! wri/s ( ! wide sleeves1 & ! loose sleeveless bodice reveals a he>t-%ap$ op5+ 9 front1 & is conf9$ by a /rip$ sc>f w\nd ab\t ! wai/ & held by a lea!r belt fa/5$ ) an impos+ silv] clasp4 ,! n>r[ fr+$ apron is ( c>pet mat]ial ov] a pla9 skirt cut %ort above ! ankles to reveal a gaily-embroid]$ petticoat4 ,! c]emonial co/ume ( ! wom5 ( ,simbirsk is v peculi>4 ,high & squ>e1 ! hat is ( velvet1 ) a close brim compos$ ( a broad h& ( :ite %eep's wool drawn d[n ov] ! br[s1 giv+ ! we>] a slightly l[]+ expression4 ,a %[] ( gilt co9s jangles 9 ! e>s1 & ! long-sleev$ :ite tunic fits tightly up to ! ?roat & ceases abruptly at ! knees1 :]e x is met by legg+s ( :ite felt cross-g>t]$ ! entire di/ance1 ! g>t]s do+ d\ble duty1 z !y s]ve z supports = ! l[ %oes4 ,! mo/ extraord9>y & *>act]i/ic feature ( ! entire toilet is a l>ge squ>e brea/-plate ( :ite metal cov]$ ) pieces ( money & copp] discs1 :i* comb9e ! roles ( amulets & ornam5ts4 ,?is odd & w>rior-l decoration is divid$ across ! c5tre1 & s =ms two sep>ate portions1 ! upp] be+ s arrang$ t x laps ov] ! "u1 :5 r5d]$ necess>y by ! movem5ts ( ! body4 ,9 addition1 a small silv] cross is worn susp5d$ f a ribbon pass$ r\nd ! neck4 ,specially int]e/+ by reason ( ! fact t ,nijni ,novgorod is ! sc5e ( ! mo/ important fair 9 ! _w1 ! dress ( ! wom5 ( ! di/rict consi/s ( a fr+$ & embroid]$ %awl :i* envelops ! head & %\ld]s & is p9n$ "u ! *94 ,z is only to be expect$1 fur plays a "p 9 ! trimm+4 ,! wide jacket rea*es to ! wai/1 & reveals fur cuffs & an edg+ ( fur ab\t ! bottom & up ! fronts4 ,n q ankle l5g?1 ! brocade skirt is bord]$ ) fr+e1 ! pla9 or brocad$ "u-skirt desc5d+ to ! gr\nd4 ,bo? skirts are imm5sely wide1 & sugge/ ! pres5ce ( a hoop$ petticoat4 ,! %awl & out] jacket remov$1 !re are attractive revelations ( a sleeveless corsage ( brocade & a :ite *emisette conspicu\s = sleeves t puff ) exagg]ation at ! %\ld] & aga9 bel[ ! elb[1 f9ally com+ 9 tightly at ! wri/ & end+ 9 frills4 ,! jewell]y1 z is usual 9 ,russia1 is ( a pond]\s type1 & is mo/ popul> 9 ! =m ( *a9s1 necklaces1 & f+]-& e>-r+s4 ,! wom5 ( ! p /ill pla/] _! faces crudely ) :ite & r$ cosmetics3 a mode once 9 fav\r ) ! upp] classes1 b n[ condemn$ z di/9ctly bad =m & sav\r+ ( b>b>ity4 ,i _c leave ,russia )\t "s ref]5ce to ! ,jews1 :o write n[ z ev] an important *apt] 9 _! hi/ory4 ,no ,jew c ju/ly be c\nt$ a peasant1 s9ce no memb] ( ! race is all[$ to be a l&-own]1 8 utmo/ privilege p]mitt+ him to be a t5ant f>m]4 ,! di/9ctive g>m5t rema9s :at x has be5 ?r\gh _m c5turies--! gab]d9e2 b "s concession is made to mod]n op9ion by ! black peak$ cap1 :i*1 9 place ( ! old skull-cap1 is worn 9 ! /reets by ! less prejudic$4 ,! gab]d9e buttons d[n ! front to ! wai/1 hangs to ! ankles1 & is usually n[ made ( black clo?1 silk1 or moir1 held at ! wai/ by a fold$ belt4 ,x is f9i%$ at ! neck by a s(t turn-d[n coll> atta*$ to an "u-%irt1 & x conceals f view loose tr\s]s & high boots2 9 w9t] x is l9$ ) fur4 ,! *9 is un%av51 & a p5d5t curl hangs f ei!r temple2 & rev]5ce = ! old traditions upholds ! cu/om t on ! ,fa/ or ,atonem5t day ( ! ,jews1 ! patri>* ( ! family %all att5d ! synagogue 9 8 %r\d1 & t ! pray+-%awl or tale? ( :ite1 ) a bord] ( blue1 be worn e day at devotions4 ,! ,jewi% wom5 ( ! poor] class we> a :ite k]*ief ov] ! head1 cross$ on ! bu/ ( a black sate5 jacket1 :i* buttons on ! slant & rea*es bel[ ! hips4 ,! %ort skirt b5ea? is ( a vivid tone ( r$1 cov]$ by a :ite apron1 & ! mo/ vital diff]5ce betwe5 ! ,jew & ! o!r races 9 ,russia is ! significant abs5ce ( ! cross4 ,! work+ dress ( ! ,jew consi/s ( a pair ( baggy tr\s]s disappe>+ into top-boots1 & a :ite %irt drawn into ! wai/ by a lea!r belt1 surm\nt$ by a r\nd clo? cap1 = no religi\s ,jew ev] uncov]s 8 head4 ,! hair w\ld seem to h "s special importance1 = no ,jewi% woman :o m>ries is all[$ to reta9 h] tresses2 !y are cropp$ or %av$ close to ! head1 :i* is cov]$ by a black sat9 cap1 d[n ! c5tre ( :i* a :ite ?read is sewn 9 imitation ( a p>t+4 ,?is sacrifice is dem&$ ( all :o w\ld enjoy matrimony2 & ! great "q z to :e!r ! cause is wor?y has n yet be5 air$ 9 any halfp5ny daily issu$ at ,/4 ,pet]sburg4 ,*anc+ ^u a book ( co/ume1 :i* includ$ details ( ! dress worn by a tribe kn[n z ! ,wotiaks1 :o inhabit a small village 9 ,sib]ia1 ,i le>n$ t ! wom5 we> a peculi> co/ume consi/+ ( a %ift ( co>se l951 slit 9 front l a man's %irt1 & hemm$ up at ei!r side ) wor/$ ( diff]5t col\rs4 ,! g[n1 :i* is wooll51 some:at 9 ! %ape ( ! habit ( ! ,jesuits 9 college1 rea*es to ! knees1 & is fa/5$ by a girdle4 ,! head-dress is v rem>kable & intricate1 includ+ mu* wrapp+ ( a t[el1 ov] :i* is plac$ a helmet made ( ! b>k ( a tree1 ornam5t$ by a piece ( clo? & copecs1 & cov]$ ) a h&k]*ief wr\ght ) wor/$ ( diff]5t col\rs & edg$ ) a fr+e4 ,! ,mordv9e wom51 if m>ri$1 h ! privilege ( we>+ a high cap work$ 9 col\r$ ?reads1 ) flaps hang+ d[n at ! back1 adorn$ ) *a9s & p5d5t fr+es4 ,! l95 petticoats & aprons %[ mu* embroid]y ( r$ & blue & _m fr+es1 & tassels & beads hang d[n beh9d4 ,l95 & ribbons1 embroid]y & col\r$ wor/$1 are ! common features ( dresses 9 all ! villages1 & ! plait ( hair1 ) /r+s ( coral & ribbon1 af=d ! "y girl "s opportunity = coquetry2 & at ,kirguise !re is a head-dress specially wor?y ( note4 ,?ree or f\r y>ds ( mat]ial are plac$ on ! head1 ) ! ends hang+ on ei!r side ( ! face1 & ov] ?is is b\nd ano!r /uff to =m a turban1 ! hair be+ plait$ 9 two & br\ght up ov] ! head to fall d[n aga9 ov] ! e>s4 ,9 ,crac[ ! op5 %irt is deck$ ) coll> & wri/b&s ti$ ) ribbons1 & ov] ?is is a tunic rea*+ to ! knee1 fa/5$ 9 front1 & held by a girdle ornam5t$ ) copp] /uds4 ,! cap ( clo? bord]$ ) fur is common 9 ?is di/rict z 9 _m o!rs4 ,! dress ( ! ,saxon peasants ne> ,dresd5 be>s a sugge/ion ( joy 9 its multi-col\r$ details4 ,!y we> d>k petticoats ) :ite jackets & aprons2 & r\nd ! neck a sc>let h&k]*ief1 ! ends ( :i* appe> "u ! jacket1 & a huge frill ti$ ) a l>ge blue b[ 9 front & a l>ge crimson "o at ! back4 ,! hair is q hidd5 by a closely-fitt+ cap ( crimson ) a :ite bord]1 or a col\r$ h&k]*ief is p9n$ tightly r\nd ! head1 & big b[s are plac$ at ! back4 ,! m5 9 ! ,tyrol we> %ort coats1 bord]$ & l9$ ) a bright col\r1 & !y %[ _! poly*romatic prejudices fur!r 9 _! ve/s ( gre51 yell[1 or sc>let1 /rip$ ) black & :ite4 ,_! %ort tr\s]s rea* to _! b>e knees1 & are ornam5t$ ) designs 9 :ite ?read1 & _! gre5 felt hats are conical 9 %ape1 ) n>r[ brims1 flaunt+ a bun* ( col\r$ ribbons on "o side4 ,! dress worn by ! wom5 is v pretty1 display+ a yell[ or r$ /oma*] & d>k bodice1 worn ov] n9e or t5 full %ort petticoats 9 diff]5t col\rs4 ,! aprons h col\r$ bord]s1 & a black h&k]*ief is cross$ ov] ! bosom "u ! /oma*]1 fur be+ p]mitt$ to trim ! sleeves :5 long2 b ) ! %ort sleeve ! :ite frill puts 9 an appe>ance at ! elb[1 & black mitt5s embroid]$ 9 col\rs cov] ! h&s & arms4 ,huge caps ) plait$ cr[ns1 ) a fea!r or bun* ( fl[]s1 con/itute ! ord9>y head-dress2 & ! hair is turn$ back f ! face1 braid$ at ! back1 & kept 9 place by v long gold p9s4 ,! /ock+s h qua9t limitations1 rea*+ only f knee to ankle1 & ! %oes are ( black lea!r4 ,qua9tness is ! di/+ui%+ feature ( ! ,dut* peasant1 m5 & wom51--! latt] 9 _! full & v %ort petticoats1 lac$ bodice & long tight sleeves1 ! hair b\nd & knott$ ) ribbons2 ! =m] 9 _! closely-fitt+ coats ) mon/] pockets1 v wide bree*es1 & long wai/coats4 ,i don't l !m buttons1 a millionaire model once said to 8 portrait pa9t]2 & a criticism ( ?is k9d w\ld come ) a t\* ( au?ority f ! ri* ,gueld]l& peasant1 ^: co/ume is all buttons4 ,coat1 wai/coat1 wai/b&1 tr\s]s1 & %oes are all decorat$ ) gold & silv] buttons1 :ile at ! ?roat is a silv] clasp1 & ! wom5 h gold ornam5ts on _! dress & 9 _! hair1 & gold5 tr9kets hang ab\t !m ev]y:]e ) m recklessness ?an reason4 ,! peasants ( ,fr5* ,fl&]s we> %ort full petticoats1 & a jacket lac$ up ! front1 gold e>-r+s & a gold5 cross be+ conspicu\s features ( _! co/ume1 :i* includes a black bib & a cap ) a pleat$ bord]4 ,a %ort coat ( black & a veil ( ?ree or f\r y>ds ( /uff are add$ = walk+ out4 ,! ,we/phalian peasant appe>s to h an odd ta/e 9 headge>1 judg+ f ! picture on page #adb1 & ! black b[ :i* ext5ds beyond ei!r e> mu/ be /iff5$ ) :alebone to induce x to su* a rectitude ( conduct4 ,! small l95 turban is held by a piece ( black ribbon1 b5ea? :i* appe>s a b& ( :ite lawn4 ,black l5ds a picturesque t\* to ! front ( ! l[ bodice1 :i* is outl9$ by a h&k]*ief ( :ite lawn held 9 front by two elaborate designs ( embroid]y2 embroid]y ( gre5 & black & r$ putt+ 9 its appe>ance r\nd ! hem ( ! pla9 s]ge skirt4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,we/phalian ,,peasant4 ,! com=table advantage ( re9de] sk9 0 appreciat$ by ! ,norwegian peasants 9 _! dress ( old5 times1 & cloaks ( ?is 7 g5]ally worn until ! city ( ,b]g5 0 built by ,k+ ,oluf 9 ! elev5? c5tury1 & ! com+ ( =eign m]*ants introduc$ a v>iety ( new fa%ions4 ,accord+ to ,norwegian *ronicl]s1 ! natives took gre$ily to f9e lac$ hose1 gold5 plates buckl$ r\nd _! legs1 high-heel$ %oes /it*$ ) silk & cov]$ ) tissue ( gold1 jackets t button$ on ! side1 ) sleeves t5 feet long1 pleat$ up to ! %\ld]s4 ,! long re9de]-sk9 g>m5t did n1 h[ev]1 disappe> entirely1 until ! rule ( %ort clo!s & b>e legs 0 inaugurat$ by ,k+ ,magnus ,olufs54 ,! v>ieties ( fa%ion d n seem to affect ! peasants n[2 !y note ) indiff]5ce ! *anges ( co/ume1 & cl+ ma9ly to ! dress :i* has desc5d$ ?r\gh _m g5]ations4 ,_! bree*es & /ock+s are cut 9 "o2 _! wai/coats are ( wooll5 mat]ial ) ! seams cov]$ ) clo? ( diff]5t col\r2 on _! heads !y we> br[n1 grey1 or black caps1 or broadly brimm$ hats2 :ile _! heel-less %oes are made ( two pieces ( lea!r1 & ! lac$ half-boots us$ 9 w9t] are cov]$ ) sealsk94 ,! ,sw$i% peasants are devot$ to long coats ( clo? l9$ ) %eepsk91 & ! wom5 *oose _! wooll5 g[ns /rip$ ) gre5 & :ite & r$4 ,! ,norwegian fte dress consi/s ( a lac$ jacket & lea!r girdle set ) silv]1 & indisp5sable are _m r[s ( *a9 hold+ a gilt or silv] p5dant4 ,! k]*ief & cap are cov]$ ) silv]1 t91 & brass plates1 buttons & r+s be+ us$ ad libitum1 & v f9e l95 is among/ ! luxuries4 ,almo/ e p>i% 9 ,norway has its own col\r1 a s*eme :i* might consid]ably assi/ ! police & municipal au?orities 9 ! sordid byways ( crime1 or ! roseate pa?s ( romance4 ,illu/ration3 ,,hung>ian ,,peasant ,,9 ,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury4 ,! ,hung>ian peasant wom5 may be not$ 9 pass+ = _! yell[ lea!r boots & l[ iron heels1 & !y /udy ! s]viceable & ! beautiful 9 _! _m col\r$ bodices & petticoats1 & :ite apron & long plaits4 ,! ,hung>ian peasant woman illu/rat$ %[s ! effect ( :ite l95 = ! head1 ) ! dress ( canvas embroid]$ 9 r$ & blue & violet4 ,! fte dress ( ! ,morlac*i woman is a gorge\s affair1 ) a *emisette embroid]$ 9 gold & r$1 & ! blue petticoat upheld by a wooll5 girdle trimm$ ) %ells4 ,! /ock+s are r$1 & ! %oes ( undress$ lea!r4 ,! unm>ri$ wom5 we> /range head ornam5ts1 includ+ a sc>let cap ) a p5d5t veil1 & su* decorations z silv] co9s1 glass beads1 fea!rs1 %ells1 artificial fl[]s1 & glass plumes1 all ( :i* elegancies are disp5s$ ) at ! alt>1 = ! matron enwraps h] head ) a h&k]*ief & all[s h] hair to fall simply ov] h] %\ld]s4 ,! virg9 conceals h] hair ) a cap1 & twi/s beads & co9s among/ h] locks 9 approv$ ,t>t> fa%ion4 ,! m>ri$ woman is all[$ ! ease ( ! ,turki% slipp]1 & all alike we> /r+s ( beads r\nd ! neck1 & z _m brass & t9 r+s z !y c obta92 & bracelets ( lea!r cov]$ ) wr\ght silv] or t91 & embroid]$ /oma*]s adorn$ ) beads & %ells express ! la/ ^w ( sm>tness4 ,! ,f9l& peasant woman seems to be ! only "o ) a nice appreciation ( br[n4 ,%e *ooses ?is = h] bodice1 ) a %ort skirt ( black1 & h] sleeves are loose & deck$ ) blue & r$1 & r\nd h] neck are five r[s ( l>ge beads1 :ile h] p5d5t ornam5ts are ( beads1 & h] qua9t little apron ( blue is /rip$ ) blue & black & a design 9 yell[ & r$ beads4 ,! :ite k]*ief cov]s ! head & =ehead1 fall+ on to h] %\ld]s1 & r\nd h] wai/ is fa/5$ a belt /rip$ ) r$ & fr+$4 ,b ga!r y\r peasant co/ume :]e y may1 :e!r 9 ! ,nor? or ! ,we/ ( ,europe1 y w f9d its mo/ prom95t details ! contra/+ col\r ( ! bodice1 ! blue & r$ embroid]y1 ! silv] & gold ornam5ts1 & ! l95 & canvas fabrics4 ,! k]*ief & ! cap are ! di/+ui%+ features1 & ! %ape & fa%ion ( ! jewell]y are inspir$ z (t5 z n by ! prevail+ religi\s rites & ! sup]/iti\s beliefs ( ! di/rict4 ,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,*9a ,,( ,,old4 ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,,( ,,ori5tal ,,dress ,all ov] ,*9a1 & p>ticul>ly 9 (ficial circles1 dress is det]m9$ by c]ta9 fix$ laws1 ! result be+ t e detail possesses a mean+ = ^? capable ( int]pret+ x4 ,! mo/ significant feature is ! button :i* adorns ! cr[ns ( hats peculi> to ,m&>9s1 :ile embroid]ies likewise assi/ 9 det]m9+ ! /atus ( ! we>]4 ,col\r is ano!r factor ( importance4 ,yell[ is sacr$ to ! ,emp]or1 ! memb]s ( ! ,imp]ial family1 & ^? privileg$ few to :om ! sov]eign desires to aw>d ! highe/ hon\r4 ,r$ is exclusively res]v$ = ,m&>9s1 b blue1 violet1 & black are common prop]ty4 ,9 ! matt] ( fem99e attire1 fa%ion is equally subjective to legislature1 & has v>i$ little ?r\gh\t ! c5turies4 ,) reg>d to ! ladies ( ! ,imp]ial h\sehold1 ! rules laid d[n = _! guidance1 9 ! matt] ( p]sonal adornm5t1 are z compreh5sive z /r+5t4 ,cu/om n only orda9s t ! ,emp]or %all h "o hundr$ & ?irty wives1 x also decrees :at !y %all we>4 ,z *ief wife & equal 9 all po9ts to h] ,cele/ial consort1 x is incumb5t ^u ! ,empress to be di/+ui%$ f h] ent\rage by ! magnific5ce ( h] raim5t4 ,= ?is %e dep5ds ^u ! mat]ials employ$ & ! embroid]ies1 z ! co/ume common to all ,*9ese wom5 ( position is modell$ on simil> l9es1 namely1 a long "u-dress1 usually ( pla9 silk1 arrang$ 9 /iff1 ov]lapp+ pleats at ! foot4 ,?is is surm\nt$ by an ov]-dress 9 a contra/+ col\r1 elaborately embroid]$ ) ! insignia ( ! husb&'s rank1 & t]m9at+ j bel[ ! knees1 :ile ! sleeves rea* to ! wri/1 :]e !y are supplem5t$ by tight inn] sleeves1 belong+ to ! "u-dress1 & almo/ completely conceal+ ! h&4 ,! coll> is n m ?an an in* deep1 & is r\nd 9 %ape1 a becom+ t\* be+ add$ by a n>r[ sc>f ( s(t silk twi/$ once ab\t ! ?roat1 & knott$ loosely1 ) ! ends all[$ to hang unev5ly 9 front4 ,a r>e illum9ation depicts ! ,empress seat$ ^u a ?rone ( c>v$ wood drap$ ) gre5 silk4 ,on h] head is a cope-l erection edg$ ) dangl+ pe>l fr+e1 h] jewell]y consi/+ ( jade e>-r+s & bracelets contriv$ f ! same preci\s /one4 ,h] "u-robe is sumptu\sly embroid]$ 9 a dazzl+ v>iety ( col\rs1 pleat$ & l9$ ) gold tissue1 :ile ! upp] g>m5t is ( r$ silk1 work$ 9 an all-ov] design ( dragons1 emblematic ( ,imp]ialism by reason ( ! di/+ui%+ five claws1 ! bord] be+ ( d>k blue ri*ly embroid]$ 9 sombre tones4 ,9 h] "r h& %e holds ! sceptre1 a twi/$ /ick head$ by a fabul\s bird4 ,next 9 rank to ! ,empress are ! ?ree wives kn[n by ! title ( ,f\-g94 ,etiquette decrees t !y %all we> dresses adorn$ ) fea!rs work$ 9 five %ades4 ,inf]ior aga9 to ^! are ! n9e ,imp]ial consorts kn[n z ,p9s4 ,to !m are assign$ robes ( brilliant yell[1 ! ?irty-sev5 ,*i-f\s donn+ :ite4 ,! l[e/ wives ( all are ! ,yu-tsis1 eighty 9 numb]1 & !y are doom$ to appe> 9 black4 ,! ov]-dress common to ,*9ese ladies is coat-%ap$1 & op5s up ! sides = a consid]able di/ance1 ano!r di/9ctive feature be+ ! sleeves1 :i* boa/ a s+le seam "u ei!r arm & are cut 9 "o ) ! rema9d] ( ! g>m5t1 :i*1 9 w9t]1 is l9$ ) ! co/lie/ fur4 ,consid]able att5tion is devot$ to ! hair4 ,9 ,pek9 girls arrange !irs 9 tufts on ! temples1 :ile ! back hangs d[n 9 multitud9\s plaits4 ,z soon z !y become engag$ !y turn x up & ?ru/ a silv] p91 a foot 9 l5g?1 ?r\gh ! ?ick tresses4 ,?is p91 by ! way1 is z significant ( betro?al z is ! r+ 9 ,europe4 ,on h] w$d+ day ! bride's hair is %av5 9 front1 to height5 ! =ehead1 & ! rema9d] braid$ & coil$ ab\t a /iff black silk frame :i* re/s on ! nape ( ! neck4 ,?is done1 fl[]s1 fea!rs1 glass ornam5ts1 or1 = ! ri*1 jewell]y set ) uncut /ones1 are add$4 ,a popul> /yle on ord9>y occasions is to twi/ ! hair into out/&+ bun*es at ei!r e> & decorate ! excresc5ces ) fl[]s4 ,a small foot is highly e/eem$ z a beauty1 & causes its possessor to be ard5tly s\ght aft] 9 m>riage4 ,! practice1 h[ev]1 ( mutilat+ ! feet 9 ord] to a*ieve ! desir$ result is limit$ to "o daught] out ( five 9 ea* family1 :ile ! wom5 ( ,t>t>y disda9 ! notion altoge!r4 ,! dim9utive foot1 errone\sly held to be typical ( all ,*9ese ladies ( rank1 is encas$ 9 a silk or cotton slipp] rais$ on a ?ick1 incl9$ sole4 ,^? :o are incapable ( gett+ into a %oe comp>$ ) :i* ,c9d]ella's glass slipp] w\ld appe> gigantic1 h rec\rse to ! /ratagem ( we>+ a simil> model fitt$ ) a high heel set 9 ! middle ( ! sole4 ,p]*$ on su* an unc]ta9 support1 !y walk ) ! m9c+ /eps & sway+ gait :i*1 = !m1 con/itute ! acme ( grace1 b :i*1 9 b>b>ian eyes1 sugge/ no?+ m allur+ ?an an imm95t dang] ( toppl+ ov]4 ,abnormally long f+]-nails are likewise held to enhance ! natural *>ms ( lovely woman1 & ! use ( cosmetics is freely indulg$ 94 ,a fan is always c>ri$1 & frequ5tly a pipe1 conspicu\s = a dim9utive b[l & long sl5d] /em4 ,z repres5t+ (ficialdom1 ! ,m&>9s1 or ,kwans1 z !y are call$ 9 _! own c\ntry1 are q ! mo/ important body ( m5 9 ! ,cele/ial ,empire4 ,!y are divid$ into n9e classes1 ea* ( :i* is subdivid$ into two4 ,a glance at ! button on ! hat is suffici5t to det]m9e ! rank ( ! we>]4 ,! significance atta*$ to ?is p>ticul> decoration is z foll[s3-- ,class4 ,degree4 ,r$ ,a ruby or o!r preci\s /one #a/ #a/ ,coral #a/ #bnd ,a r$ jewel ( inf]ior quality #bnd #a/ ,coral c>v$ 9 ! =m ( a fl[] #bnd #bnd ,blue ,a light-blue preci\s /one #crd #a/ ,! same only small] #crd #bnd ,a d>k-blue preci\s /one #d? #a/ ,! same only small] #d? #bnd ,:ite ,cry/al #e? #a/ ,! same only small] #e? #bnd ,a :ite preci\s /one #f? #a/ ,! same only small] #f? #bnd ,gold ,gold #g? #a/ ,small] #g? #bnd ,small] #h? #a/ ,small] #h? #bnd ,! la/ class ( all is simil>ly repres5t$ by a gold button4 ,! button employ$ on c]emonial occasions diff]s f t worn e day1 9 t x is r\nd1 :]eas ! latt] is oblong4 ,ano!r di/9ctive feature ( a ,m&>9's dress is ! pectoral--a small piece ( mat]ial atta*$ to ! brea/4 ,9 ! case ( civil dignit>ies x is embroid]$ ) birds1 :ile 9 t ( milit>y au?orities x displays quadrup$s4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,*9ese ,,actor4 ,! (ficial co/ume consi/s ( a long1 loose g[n :i* op5s up ! c5tre & is gorge\sly embroid]$ ) dragons or w+$ s]p5ts4 ,! claws fur!r te/ify to ! rank ( ! we>]1 ^? dragons possess+ ?ree or f\r be+ ! exclusive privilege ( memb]s ( ! fir/ f\r classes1 :o are also entitl$ to we> peacock's fea!rs at ! back ( _! hats1 & *a9s ( coral1 ! r$ p>asol be+ ano!r ( _! pr]ogatives4 ,ov] ! "u-robe is worn an ample coat ( pla9 silk ext5d+ bel[ ! knees4 ,?is has wide sleeves1 :i* all[ a view ( tight "u-sleeves p]ta9+ to ! embroid]$ robe1 & drawn d[n to cov] ! h&s1 & %ap$ at ! ends 9 ! =m ( a horse%oe4 ,ab\t ! wai/ is a deep embroid]$ b&1 t s]ves z pocket 9 case ( ne$1 :ile a squ>e1 embroid]$ coll> re/s on ! %\ld]s & tap]s up to vani%+ po9t at ! ?roat 9 front4 ,! hair hangs 9 a tightly-plait$ pigtail1 l5g!n$ by ! addition ( false tresses1 & ! *>act]i/ic hat boa/s a brim ( sat91 velvet1 or fur1 %ap$ l a sauc]1 its r$ cr[n surm\nt$ by ! all-important button4 ,! %oes are ^? :i* a man ( position mu/ always we> 9 public4 ,sabot-%ap$1 ) ?ick soles1 !y are cov]$ 9 silk1 sat91 or cotton1 & !re is no diff]5ce betwe5 ! "r & left foot4 ,a covet$ milit>y di/9ction is a fox's tail arrang$ at ! back ( ! hat4 ,! mo/ signal m>k ( ,imp]ial fav\r1 h[ev]1 is p]mission to we> a yell[ coat4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,*9ese ,,peasant4 ,9 8 ev]yday attire ! ,m&>9 obs]ves none ( ^! elaborate =mul4 ,he dons a loose robe ( silk to ! ankles1 an umbrella-%ap$ hat1 & heel-less %oes ) po9t$ toes t curve slightly upw>ds1 contriv$ f rattan plait$ 9 su* a mann] z to all[ freely ( v5tilation4 ,9 8 "r h& he c>ries a fan & 9 8 left a *eck$ h&k]*ief ( impos+ dim5sions4 ,! ord9>y dress ( m5 ( ! middle classes comprises a %ort %irt cut l[ at ! ?roat1 draw]s1 socks ( mat]ial made ) a s+le seam up ! back1 a long embroid]$ coat1 & a %ort] jacket ( "s pla9 fabric1 held by a broad wai/-belt1 embroid]$ 9 col\rs & fa/5$ by a jade ornam5t4 ,! headge> diff]s accord+ to ! season4 ,9 summ] a conical-%ap$ /raw hat is *os51 & 9 w9t] small hats obta9 ei!r ( h>d felt ) /iff1 upturn$ brims or ( felt s(t & pliable4 ,! co/ume ( ! l[] ord]s is simplicity itself4 ,a cotton %irt1 tr\s]s1 & a loose sleeveless coat exhau/ ! li/4 ,a n>r[ /rip ( mat]ial is ti$ r\nd ! wai/ 9 ord] to prev5t ! clo?+ gett+ 9 ! work]'s way1 & ! nak$ feet are ?ru/ into l[ s&als4 ,occasionally ! ubiquit\s pigtail is turn$ up & p9n$ 9 a coil ab\t ! head1 b ?is lib]ty is nev] p]mitt$ 9 ! pres5ce ( a sup]ior4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 ! etiquette ( dress is rigidly obs]v$ ?r\gh\t ,*9a4 ,no g5tleman w\ld dream ( ei!r pay+ or receiv+ a visit )\t %oes on 8 feet1 a fan 9 8 h&1 & a wide1 po9t$ hat1 r sugge/ive ( a t5t1 on 8 head4 ,h[ true x is t mann]s1 l morals1 are m]e matt]s ( geography6 ,9 contra/ to ! love ( display *>act]i/ic ( _! ,*9ese neighb\rs1 ! ,japanese are conspicu\s = extreme simplicity4 ,?is national trait f9ds expression 9 _! dress4 ,"h ,i pause to consid] :e!r1 z a *ronicl] ( co/ume1 ,i %\ld allude to ! ,japanese 9 ! pres5t or pa/ t5se8 ,i regretfully incl9e to ! latt] view1 = !re is little d\bt t ! smoke ( factory *imneys1 built on ,european l9es & f$ ) ,c>diff coal1 is rapidly blurr+ local col\r4 ,already ! qua9t little m5 h adopt$ ! outw>d & visible sign ( inw>d civilisation 9 ! =m ( a frock coat & top hat4 ,_! wom5-folk h foll[$ _! example & disc>d$ ! picturesque = ! prosaic1 ex*ang+ ! fa%ions transmitt$ by _! ance/resses = ^? telegraph$ f ,p>is4 ,w ! ,gei%as d likewise1 & is ano!r decade de/9$ to see !m 9 caps & aprons1 & w--,imag9ation fails me1 & ,i rev]t to ! glori\s days ( ! ,daimios & ,sam\rais--days = :i*1 ,i am firmly conv9c$1 e frock-coat$ ,japanese sighs z ard5tly z ,i d4 ,9 old ,japan social di/9ctions 7 drawn = all "t1 & !re 0 no cross+ ! l9e ( dem>cation4 ,society 0 divid$ into n9e grades4 ,! pr9ces1 or ,daimios1 ! nobles1 or ,sam\rai1 ! prie/s1 & ! milit>y compos$ ! fir/ f\r4 ,^! 7 entitl$ to c>ry two swords1 :ile ! intellectual class1 :i* numb]$ doctors 9 its ranks1 0 all[$ "o4 ,! rema9d]1 includ+ lawy]s1 7 deb>r$ ! privilege ( be>+ arms4 ,f ! age ( sev5 ! son ( a ,sam\rai appe>$ 9 public we>+ ! two swords di/9ctive ( 8 rank4 ,!y 7 small1 ( c\rse1 z appropriate to 8 size & /r5g?1 b 7 o!rwise p]fect 9 e detail4 ,despite rigor\sly-obs]v$ social divisions1 all classes wore ! same out] g>m5t1 ! diff]5ce be+ 9 ! mat]ials employ$4 ,until ! influx ( ,europeans made its levell+ influ5ce felt1 ! use ( silk by any b ! nobility 0 /rictly prohibit$4 ,! article ( attire common to bo? sexes ( ! community 0 ! kimono1 a loose1 fl[+ wrap :i* op5$ d[n ! c5tre & cross$ ov] at ! brea/1 :]e on m5 x 0 held 9 place by a n>r[ belt1 :ile wom5 wore a wide sa% neatly fold$ & ti$ 9 an elaborate b[ beh9d4 ,al?\gh ! sleeves 7 imm5sely wide & hung 9 deep po9ts1 only a small op5+ 0 left = ! h& to pass ?r\gh1 ! rema9d] be+ jo9$ toge!r to s]ve z pocket4 ,etiquette exact+ t :at a gue/ c\ld n eat he %\ld take home1 ! sup]flu\s da9ties 7 c>efully envelop$ 9 pap] & deposit$ 9 ! roomy sleeves4 ,h&k]*iefs 7 ( tissue pap]1 & 7 c>ri$ 9 ! belt2 :ile no ,japanese1 ( ei!r sex or any rank1 f ! ,mikado d[nw>ds1 w\ld cons5t to ev5 a mom5t>y sep>ation f 8 or h] fan4 ,mascul9e co/ume consi/$ ( tight tr\s]s to ! calf & ! loose1 r\nd %irts1 :i* 7 fa%ion$ f :ite mat]ial = ! p & f greyi%-blue silk = ! nobility2 & lab\r]s display$ on !irs ! insignia ( _! special craft or ( ! corporation to :i* !y belong$4 ,common to all classes 7 high wood5 clogs & s&als ( plait$ /raw4 ,peculi> to ! ari/ocracy & c]ta9 regim5ts1 notably ! ar*]s1 7 %ort tr\s]s ( brilliantly-col\r$ silk1 cut s imm5sely wide z to sugge/ ! petticoats ( a ballet girl4 ,on c]emoni\s occasions ! feet & legs 7 left b>e4 ,/ock+s 7 cut out ( cotton1 or /uff1 neatly seam$ up ! back1 & 7 made ) a division at ! great toe = ! ?ong ( ! s&al4 ,on ! :ole1 subdu$ %ades & d>k col\rs pr$om9at$1 ! ,japanese be+ di/+ui%$ by ! quiet elegance ( _! ta/e4 ,typical ( ! headge> affect$ by ! l[] classes 9 w>m wea!r 0 a huge /raw hat 9 ! =m ( a di%-cov]4 ,ano!r *>act]i/ic example1 likewise ( /raw1 resembl$ a r\nd1 deep-edg$ tray1 ! brim turn$ d[nw>ds1 & ! :ole 0 held 9 place by means ( a *9-/rap4 ,wom51 z a rule1 left ! head uncov]$1 pref]r+ to rely = protection ^u flat umbrellas made ( pap]1 cotton1 or silk4 ,!y drew _! hair (f ! =ehead1 dress+ x 9 neat puffs or coils & decorat+ x ) l>ge1 ornam5tal p9s1 fl[]s1 & ribbons1 b nei!r e>-r+s nor any o!r articles ( jewell]y 7 worn4 ,m>ri$ wom5 7 di/+ui%$ by _! black5$ tee? & ! fact t _! eyebr[s 7 %av$ & _! faces unpa9t$4 ,!y wore a long robe ( r$ crpe de *9e :i* fold$ ov] at ! brea/ leav+ a ,v-%ap$ op5+ at ! ?roat4 ,_! pet vanity 0 to arrange _! "u-g>m5ts s t ! bord] ( ea* =m$ a regul> trimm+ at ! neck1 a glance suffic+ to %[ h[ _m 7 worn--! great] ! numb] ! great] ! success a*iev$4 ,on ! back & sleeves ( _! trail+ silk kimonos 7 embroid]$ ! arms ( _! h\se4 ,:5 walk+1 or o!rwise inconv5i5c$ by folds ( mat]ial cl++ ab\t _! feet1 !y tuck$ ! kimonos into ! belt1 a pretty fa%ion :i* reveal$ ! gaily-col\r$ g[n b5ea? & ! high wood5 clogs4 ,! only diff]5ce betwe5 ! dress ( wom5 ( ! upp] & l[] classes 0 ! employm5t ( cotton in/ead ( silk4 ,despite ! fact t ,european influ5ce has done mu* t[>ds impos+ ,european co/ume ^u ! ,japanese1 ! influ5ce is z yet re/rict$ to ,tokio & o!r indu/rial c5tres4 ,9 rural di/ricts ! national dress is /ill sacr$1 & ! c\ntry-man rema9s a qua9tly picturesque figure to delight ! visitor f across seas1 :o recognises 9 him ! prototype ( ! c>v$ ivory models ( ! glass cab9et & curio table4 ,f ! l& ( ! *rysan!mum to t ( ! ,pyramids is a f> cry1 & 9 po9t ( fact no m dissimil> types c\ld be imag9$ ?an ^? ( old ,japan & anci5t ,egypt4 ,woman's dress *>act]i/ic ( ! latt] c\ntry 0 m>k$ by a %amelessness ( display & a unique brilliancy ( col\r1 ! effect ( ! scanty g>m5ts 9 vivid tones acc5tuat+ r ?an conceal+ ! natural l9es & curves ( ! figure4 ,! *ief article ( attire w\ld seem to h be5 ! deep circul> coll> worn r\nd ! ?roat1 & ?is 0 typical ( bo? sexes & ( all ranks ( ! community ) ! exception ( ! v meane/4 ,x 0 compos$ ( jewels1 metal1 enamel "w1 or beads1 accord+ to ! position ( ! we>]4 ,fem99e dress consi/$ ( a tight sleeveless robe1 bett] describ$ p]haps z a cl++ skirt1 ( a texture adapt$ to def9e ! figure1 rea*+ to ! ankles1 & ext5d+ a few in*es above ! wai/4 ,x 0 held 9 place by a pair ( /raps :i* 7 jo9$ 9 ! c5tre &1 sep>at+1 pass$ ov] ! %\ld]s to meet aga9 beh9d4 ,! bu/ & arms 7 b>e1 ! latt] adorn$ ) bracelets at ! wri/ & aga9 above ! elb[4 ,anklets 7 worn1 & occasionally big circul> e>-r+s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,an ,,egyptian ,,peasant ,,woman4 ,illu/ration3 ,,an ,,egyptian ,,wat]-,,c>ri]4 ,! treatm5t ( ! hair 0 extremely elaborate & difficult1 call+ = ! ex]cise ( consid]able skill & pati5ce4 ,cut /raight across ! =ehead1 x 0 arrang$ ) ma!matical precision 9 sev]al r[s ( f9e plaits1 ! clubb$ ends t]m9at+ imm$iately bel[ ! nape ( ! neck4 ,z a coiffure ( ?is k9d necessitat$ an enorm\s exp5diture ( "t & lab\r1 all classes ( society _h rec\rse to wigs1 ! ri* employ+ natural hair = ! purpose1 & ! poor1 wool4 ,a typical example ( a fa%ionable p]ruque took ! =m ( a d5sely-braid$ mass :i* cov]$ ! head z efficaci\sly z a mat1 "o l>ge plait com+ d[n at ei!r side ( ! face1 & curv+ r\nd on ! %\ld] 9 ! %ape ( an elephant's trunk4 ,! cr[n ( ! head 0 usually encircl$ by a sl5d] gold5 fillet1 :i*1 9 ! case ( a ,ph>aoh1 or a royal lady1 0 tw9$ ab\t ) ! uru1 emblem ( supreme sov]eignty4 ,! head ( ! sacr$ asp re>$ ?reat5+ly 9 ! c5tre ( ! =ehead4 ,cleopatra--n ! fam\s ,cleopatra ( ,m>k ,antony1 b "o ( h] five pr$ecessors--is repres5t$ ) ! b>e bosom1 nak$ arms1 circul> coll>1 & sk9-tight skirt common to h] c\ntrywom54 ,a notewor?y feature is t h] dress1 ( bright blue & :ite mat]ial1 %[s horizontal /ripes to ! knees1 :]e x is jo9$ by a slightly full] fl\nce ) ! /ripes runn+ v]tically4 ,x is support$ by sc>let %\ld]-/raps1 & ! ribbon encircl+ ! cr[n ( ! head is 9 ! same %ade1 knott$ at ! back1 :]e x hangs 9 two %ort ends4 ,! wig is arrang$ 9 multitud9\s plaits t re/ on ! %\ld]s at ei!r side & desc5d midway to ! wai/ beh9d4 ,above ! =ehead re>s ! royal asp1 & ov] x t[] two /raight quills1 :i* =m a backgr\nd = ! horns ( a ram betwe5 :i* gl>es a flam+ sun2 ^! quills1 by ! way1 typify absolute sov]eignty4 ,illu/ration3 ,,an ,,egyptian ,,peasant4 ,! head-cov]+ 9 g5]al use consi/$ ( a piece ( mat]ial %ap$ to re/ flat on ! top ( ! head & describe a curve 9 front1 ) a /raight1 n>r[ tab cut up at ! side to all[ free passage = ! %\ld]1 ! back hang+ curta9-wise to af=d ample protection to ! nape ( ! neck4 ,! textures employ$ = su* purposes 7 cotton1 l951 & wool decorat$ ) /ripes or embroid]y4 ,! m51 z well z ! wom51 glitt]$ ) bracelets1 anklets1 & o!r jewell]y ( a massive & %[y type4 ,:ite 0 pref]r$ to col\rs = _! clo?+2 & ! habitual co/ume = m5 0 ( ! scantie/ possible description1 be+ no?+ m or less ?an a sleeveless tunic held up by %\ld]-/raps1 a n>r[ piece ( ribbon be+ ti$ r\nd ! wai/1 t]m9at+ 9 two %ort ends 9 front4 ,?is skirt or tunic rea*$ to ! knee or calf1 & sometimes ev5 z f> z ! ankle2 ! legs1 arms1 & *e/ 7 b>e1 & ! face clean-%av54 ,a great w>rior is depict$ we>+ a tightly-fitt+ %irt ( mail compos$ ( bronze scales sewn on to s(t lea!r1 display+ %ort sleeves & desc5d+ bel[ ! knees1 a :ite metal gauntlet protect+ ! left wri/4 ,on ! head is a high1 n>r[ helmet :i* completely conceals ! hair1 & f x floats ?ree p5d5t ends ( /rip$ mat]ial4 ,ab\t ! ?roat is a jewell$ & enamell$ coll>1 & f a ?ick gold *a9 hangs a l>ge gold ornam5t engrav$ ) figures4 ,x is kn[n t ! f9e/ & mo/ transp>5t musl9s 7 fir/ manufactur$ by ! anci5t ,egyptians1 & d\btless ^! 7 us$ = mak+ dresses2 inde$ 9 pro( ( ?is _m repres5tations are extant ( female musicians clad 9 diaphan\s musl9 ?r\gh :i* ! body c be cle>ly se54 ,! loose robe is drawn "u ! "r arm & fa/5$ on ! left %\ld]4 ,did ,egyptian wom5 ev] gr[ old1 ,i wond]1 & if s1 :at did !y we>8 ,! arti/s h left u no record save ( ! et]nal fem99e et]nally y\?ful4 ,,*apt] ,,xiv ,,( ,,ori5tal ,,dress 7cont9u$7 ,& nev] ! twa9 %all meet1 lilts ,kipl+ ( ! ,ea/ & ! ,we/2 & 9 ! prov9ce ( dress1 z ev]y:]e else 9 ! ,ori5t1 ca/e1 rul+ supreme1 writes incontrov]sial laws ( sep>ation4 ,9 ,india1 ! article ( mascul9e attire to :i* mo/ importance atta*es is ! turban1 its %ape & g5]al aspect d5ot+ ! social & spiritual /atus ( ! we>]4 ,until ! f\nd+ ( ! ,mogul ,empire 9 #aeje1 ! wom5 ( ,h9do/an 7 /rang]s to ! tyranny bo? ( ! ,z5ana & ( ! veil1 b f t "t onw>ds traces ( ,mohamm$an influ5ce are pla9ly visible 9 ! habits & co/ume ( ! p4 ,! utmo/ magnific5ce & display *>act]is$ ! dress ( ! ,mogul ,emp]ors & _! ,c\rt2 & al?\gh diff]+ 9 col\r1 texture1 & c]ta9 m9ute details1 ! co/umes common to ! p]iod 7 id5tical 9 broad outl9e & g5]al design2 & ,fa%ion mov$ s sl[ly 9 a c\ntry :]e tradition 0 reg>d$ z law1 t ! sleeve & coll> 9 vogue at ! end ( a c5tury 7 v l ^? obta9+ at ! beg9n+4 ,a pr9ce ( ! ,mogul dyna/y1 :o is depict$ 9 a dress typical ( 8 "t & rank1 we>s long1 tightly-fitt+ pyjamas ( /rip$ r$ & gold mat]ial1 v mu* ruck$ at ! calf & t]m9at+ at ! ankle4 ,8 feet are encas$ 9 embroid]$ slipp]s1 :i* leave ! heel b>e1 ! po9t$ toes curl+ upw>ds4 ,! ov]-dress rea*es to bel[ ! knee1 & is ( transp>5t :ite tissue1 ! skirt pleat$ & held at ! wai/ by a sa%1 work$ 9 gold1 sc>let1 & black1 knott$ 9 front & ) fr+$ ends fall+ 9 unequal l5g?s4 ,a jewel-hilt$ dagg] is worn at ! left side1 & a n>r[ sc>f1 9 :ite & gold1 crosses ! brea/1 pass+ "u ! "r arm & ov] ! left %\ld]1 :]e "o end hangs d[n beh9d & ! o!r be=e4 ,! closely-fitt+ sleeves are ruck$1 & bracelets are drawn ov] !m at ! wri/ & above ! elb[1 :ile sev]al r[s ( pe>ls appe> at ! neck4 ,! small :ite turban is arrang$ 9 a po9t on ! =ehead & encircl$ by a broad gold b& & a /r+ ( pe>ls1 ! latt] rais$ 9 front by an enorm\s em]ald1 a sup]b aigrette wav+ above an ornam5t glitt]+ ) diamonds & o!r preci\s /ones2 & on /ate occasions a l>ge sword1 %ea!d 9 crimson velvet1 & ) a cross-%ap$ hilt /udd$ ) jewels1 0 c>ri$1 ano!r m>k ( ,imp]ial dignity be+ ! umbrella :i* ov]spread ! ?rone4 ,! dress ( high-born ladies 0 v simil> to t ( ! m51 = x1 too1 consi/$ ( ruck$ tr\s]s1 ( brilliantly-col\r$ silk1 decorat$ ) embroid]y & conf9$ at ! feet ) pla9 gold bangles or jewell$ anklets4 ,! po9t$ slipp]s curv$ up at ! toes & left ! heels expos$1 & ! pleat$ robe ( transp>5t musl9 t]m9at$ at ! calf4 ,f ! wai/ 9 front a wid? ( gold tissue1 fr+$ & work$ 9 v>i\s bright %ades1 hung apron-l1 :ile ! bu/ 0 support$ by a corselet contriv$ f poli%$ wood s light & s supple z 9 n[ise to int]f]e ) ! li! movem5ts ( ! body4 ,! arms 7 b>e1 except+ = bracelets at ! wri/s & above ! elb[1 & ! head & upp] portion ( ! figure 7 envelop$ 9 ! graceful folds ( a s>i1 or imm5se veil ( diaphan\s texture bord]$ ) gold & patt]n$ 9 vivid col\rs4 ,! hair 0 p>t$1 & fell 9 plaits beh9d1 a jewell$ ornam5t be+ worn 9 ! c5tre ( ! =ehead2 :ile a pe>l 0 fa/5$ into "o no/ril1 & ! nails 7 /a9$ v]milion4 ,illu/ration3 ,,an ,,old ,,indian ,,fe/ival ,,dress4 ,c\rt dignit>ies are repres5t$ 9 long1 loose g>m5ts com+ bel[ ! knees & cut l[ at ! ?roat to reveal a ve/ ( f9e :ite mat]ial1 b o!rwise id5tical 9 design ) ! ord9>y dress+-g[n ( a man ( to-day4 ,! wai/ 0 encircl$ by a broad b& ( embroid]y1 & ! tr\s]s completely encas$ ! feet4 ,on ! head 0 ! inevitable turban1 r\nd 9 %ape & wide ( brim4 ,"u ! ,briti% ,raj1 ,india reta9s h] picturesque v>iety ( co/ume1 & rema9s ! "o l& fai?ful to ! traditions ( ! turban4 ,h>dly less spl5did ?an 9 ! gorge\s days ( ! ,mogul ,empire is ! dress ( a mod]n pr9ce ( ! ca/e ( ,rajput4 ,a small r$ turban is w\nd tightly ab\t ! head1 "o %ort gold-b$iz5$ end fall+ beh9d4 ,! big e>-r+s are cresc5t-%ap$1 & ! necklace is compos$ ( sev]al r[s ( pe>ls4 ,a :ite robe falls to ! ankles1 & is surm\nt$ by a %ort] yell[ jacket embroid]$ 9 col\rs & held toge!r at ! wai/ by a sa% ( peacock blue sat91 ! gold fr+$ ends fall+ unev5ly 9 front4 ,! tight sleeves t]m9ate at ! elb[1 :]e !y are supplem5t$ by :ite ones1 :i* ext5d to ! wri/4 ,sc>let & :ite are ! fav\rite contra/1 & ! effect is to make ! cr[d$ baza>s brilliant & attractive to ! eye4 ,a co/ume *>act]i/ic ( a ,pa?an1 a ,musulman by religion1 consi/s ( a :ite turban ( volum9\s proportions w\nd 9 su* a mann] z to =m a wide brim4 ,! tight tr\s]s are cle>ly visible ?r\gh a fl[+ robe ( figur$ :ite cotton1 :i* rea*es ne>ly to ! gr\nd1 &1 cross+ ov] at ! brea/1 is kept 9 place by a /rip$ %awl fold$ ab\t ! wai/1 ! picture be+ complet$ by velvet slipp]s turn$ up at ! toes4 ,! coolies are g5]ally nak$ except = a lo9-clo? & turban1 b "s we> a :ite cotton %irt1 %ort-sleev$ & held by a fold$ belt 9 "s bright %ade4 ,brahm9s are di/+ui%$ by ! sacr$ cord1 9 reality a twi/$ rope ( cotton1 :i* hangs f ! left %\ld] to ! middle ( ! ?igh4 ,a typical co/ume is evolv$ f a long1 /raight piece ( mat]ial w\nd r\nd ! body f ! wai/ d[nw>ds1 & drawn betwe5 ! legs to =m a tr\s]-l division4 ,a %awl1 drap$ ab\t ! upp] portion ( ! figure1 is manipulat$ 9 su* a way z to cross on ! left %\ld]1 "o end hang+ 9 front & ! o!r beh9d4 ,a %ako-%ap$ turban & a *aplet ( beads put ! f9i%+ t\*es1 :ile on ! =ehead1 brea/1 & b>e arms ! m>k ( ! sect is pa9t$ ) :ite p[d]4 ,f ! age ( sev51 ,p>sees ( bo? sexes don ! sadra or sacr$ surplice emblematic ( ! coat ( mail worn 9 anci5t times by ! ,gueb]s to w>d (f ! attacks ( ,ahriman1 _s ( evil4 ,! dress ( ! m5 comprises light1 baggy tr\s]s1 :ite /ock+s1 flat-heel$ slipp]s1 a tight black coat1 usually ( alpaca1 button$ d[n ! front1 & a high sug>-loaf hat ( %9y black4 ,no?+ m *>m+ c\ld be devis$ ?an ! dress peculi> to ! female foll[]s ( ,zoroa/]4 ,until %e m>ries ! ,p>see girl we>s wide tr\s]s fa%ion$ f brilliantly-hu$ silk or sat91 & ! hems ( ! legs are adorn$ ) b&s ( embroid]y 9 qua9t designs ( birds & bea/s work$ 9 ! mo/ gorge\s t9ts4 ,h] inn] g>m5t is a long sleev$ jacket ( :ite musl91 ov] :i* comes ! sadra1 or loose1 squ>e tunic lack+ sleeves1 & di/+ui%$ by ! magnific5ce ( its embroid]ies4 ,! hair1 divid$ 9 ! c5tre & hang+ d[n beh9d1 is cr[n$ by a little circul> cap ( black velvet cov]$ ) gold & silv] embroid]y & /udd$ ) se$ pe>ls1 :ile on ! feet are gaily-embroid]$ slipp]s4 ,etiquette decrees t be=e h] w$d+ ! ,p>see woman mu/ submit to hav+ h] head %av$1 a m>tyrdom :i* is responsible = ! nun-l b& ( :ite mat]ial drawn l[ on ! =ehead4 ,%e cont9ues to we> ! tr\s]s1 b ex*anges ! decorative sadra = an ev5 m sup]b s>i4 ,?is volum9\s drap]y is ( gold-bord]$ musl9 9 w>m wea!r1 at o!r seasons a long1 /raight piece ( silk or sat9 wondr\sly col\r$ & exquisitely embroid]$4 ,x is w\nd r\nd & r\nd ! body1 outl9+ x tightly at ! back1 & hang+ 9 /raight folds 9 front1 ea* evolution be+ accompli%$ 9 pleats1 to atta9 suffici5t fulness2 & f9ally ! end is drawn ov] ! head1 conceal+ "o e> & leav+ ! o!r expos$1 a practice :i* expla9s ! s+le e>r+ worn by ,p>see wom54 ,9 w>m wea!r ! s>i is ( musl9 & boa/s a wide gold bord]4 ,! pr9cipal item 9 ! w>drobe ( ! ,h9du woman is likewise ! s>i1 :i* %e arranges z ! ,p>see does h]s4 ,! texture v>ies accord+ to ! means ( ! we>]4 ,! poor employ cotton1 b !y inv>iably endeav\r to h an ornam5tal bord] ( "s k9d4 ,! simply-made skirt rea*es to ! ankles1 & ! *uli1 a %ort-sleev$ jacket ( dim9utive proportions1 t]m9ates imm$iately bel[ ! bu/1 leav+ ! middle ( ! figure uncov]$ except+ = ! s>i4 ,! hair is twi/$ 9 a heavy coil l[ d[n on ! nape ( ! neck1 a /yle r5d]$ necess>y by ! cu/om ( c>ry+ weights on ! head4 ,! poor ,h9du1 di/ru/ful ( o!r securities1 inve/s su* worldly weal? z he possesses 9 jewell]y = 8 wife1 :o appe>s lad5 ) bracelets1 ( pa9t$ wood or col\r$ glass4 ,z _m z twelve r+s j+le f ! mu*-pi]c$ rim ( ei!r e>1 :ile an ornam5t1 frequ5tly ( prepo/]\s size1 is affix$ to "o no/ril1 & 9 addition !re are anklets1 necklaces1 & toe & f+] r+s4 ,if ! outdoor dress ( ,p]sian wom5 be any crit]ion1 _! husb&s mu/ be ! mo/ jeal\s 9 ! _w1 = n "o ( ! *>ms accr$it$ to frail fem99ity is all[$ to transpire4 ,! veil & all-envelop+ mantle ma9ta9 a pr(\nd res]ve1 s t :e!r ! we>] be old or "y1 sl5d] or /\t1 attractive or repulsive1 rema9s = ev] an imp5etrable my/]y4 ,be=e quitt+ ! seclusion ( ! ,&>an1 ! ,p]sian woman assumes an effective disguise4 ,fir/ %e draws on a pair ( d>k gre5 or grey tr\s]s1 "o leg at a "t1 = !re is no connection betwe5 ! two1 & ^! are fa/5$ at ! wai/ by a belt4 ,_! %ape is peculi>2 =1 baggy to ! knees1 !y fit closely at ! calf & encase ! foot aft] ! mann] ( a /ock+4 ,ov] ^! is worn an ample mantle ( black silk1 cotton1 or musl91 cov]+ ! head & %r\d+ ! entire figure1 ! ends drawn up at ! bu/ & held by /r+s1 :i* are cross$ & ti$ r\nd ! neck4 ,a ?ick :ite veil--an ess5tial item f ! age ( n9e--falls f ! =ehead to ! wai/ 9 front1 & is p9n$ at ! back ( ! head to keep x 9 place1 a n>r[ ins]tion ( net appe>+ at ! eyes1 to all[ sight to ! we>]4 ,! indoor dress ( a ,p]sian lady consi/s ( a full skirt to ! ankles1 fa%ion$ f clo? ( gold1 velvet1 or "s o!r co/ly fabric1 trimm$ ) beautiful embroid]y4 ,a loose jacket ( s(t :ite musl91 decorat$ ) a peculi> k9d ( lace1 =ms a ve/ 9 front b5ea? an op5 embroid]$ jacket ( a %ade contra/+ ) t ( ! skirt4 ,?is jacket rea*es to ! wai/1 & has long sleeves conspicu\s = turn$-back cuffs4 ,a ca%m]e %awl is drap$ on ! %\ld]s1 & a :ite veil is arrang$ k]*ief-wise on ! head & fa/5$ "u ! *9 ) a jewell$ broo*1 leav+ only ! oval ( ! face visible4 ,! br[s are encircl$ by a gold5 fillet1 f ! c5tre ( :i* dep5ds a jewel1 :ile ! hair is p>t$ & hangs d[n beh9d 9 ?ree or m plaits1 _! ends ti$ ) gay ribbons or weight$ ) pe>ls or silk tassels4 ,a v>iation ( ?is /yle is not$ 9 ! dress ( ! ladies ( ,trebizond1 _! ca%m]e %awl be+ small] & arrang$ ov] ! skirt 9 su* a way t a po9t falls d[n beh9d4 ,! sn[y musl9 *emisette is cut l[ at ! ?roat1 & ! embroid]$ coat %[s a he>t-%ap$ op5+ fa/5+ only at ! wai/ ) two buttons2 & on ! head is a small r\nd cap4 ,female s]vants are g5]ally b>efoot$1 _! full skirts t]m9at+ midway to ! ankles1 & pull$ l[ d[n on ! hips1 s t ! %ort :ite "u-jacket & little coat ( col\r$ mat]ial t]m9at+ at ! wai/1 expose ! c5tre ( ! body to view4 ,! (ficial classes h disc>d$ ! turban 9 fav\r ( ! fez1 a closely-fitt+ cap "s six in*es 9 height1 contriv$ f black clo? or a/rakhan4 ,^! are pla91 ) ! exception ( ! jewell$ fez peculi> to ! ,%ah1 & ( ! caps ( c]ta9 high milit>y au?orities1 :i* be> a di/9ctive badge ( a gold lion & sun affix$ above ! =ehead1 a field-m>%al we>+ two lions surm\nt$ by a cr[n4 ,! turbans ( ! prie/s are l>ge & r\nd1 ^? *>act]i/ic ( ! ,seyyids1 ! direct desc5dants ( ,ali1 be+ 9 a bright %ade ( gre54 ,z a rule1 ! (ficial classes we> tr\s]s & black frock coats t diff] f ^? cu/om>y 9 ,europe only 9 t !y are arrang$ 9 num]\s pleats1 :i*1 comm5c+ at ! hips1 cont9ue r\nd ! back4 ,inf9itely m *>act]i/ic is ! co/ume affect$ by m]*ants1 ?is section ( ! community exhibit+ a p>tiality = lighti% blue clo? ( native manufacture4 ,! long coat1 or ghaba1 is loose & fl[+4 ,d\ble-brea/$1 x laps ov] & fa/5s ) two buttons1 :ile ab\t ! wai/ a %awl is w\nd sev]al times1 knott$1 & ! ends tuck$ out ( sight4 ,! ov]coat1 or aba1 is ( r\gh br[n mat]ial1 op5 9 front1 & ! wide sleeves t]m9ate at ! elb[4 ,a t[]+ fez or a roll$ turban is worn1 accord+ to ! ta/e ( ! we>]4 ,! prie/s1 or ,mullahs1 affect mu* ! same /yle ( g>b2 &1 z ,i write1 "o :om ,i knew rises up be=e me4 ,8 0 a mo/ impos+ p]sonality4 ,( middle height1 he seem$ mu* tall] by reason ( 8 l>ge :ite turban & ample robe ( d>k blue t fl[$ to 8 ankles1 reveal+ heel-less %oes ( bright yell[ lea!r4 ,r\nd 9 %ape1 8 head 0 %av51 & 8 be>d 0 trimm$ to a po9t & /a9$ ) h5na4 ,ab\t 8 wai/ a :ite %awl 0 wrapp$ six times1 & into x 0 tuck$ a big /rip$ cotton h&k]*ief4 ,9 8 h& he c>ri$ a ros>y compos$ ( a hundr$ clay beads1 &1 :5 he walk$1 ! dignity ( 8 demean\r 0 fur!r enhanc$ by a long :ite mantle :i* he wore flung ov] 8 "r %\ld]4 ,p]sians es*ew gaudy col\rs & /rik+ contra/s 9 dress1 pref]r+ quiet %ades & h>moni\s comb9ations2 dull r$s1 dim blues1 & sombre gre5s be+ fav\rite t9ts4 ,! diplomatic uni=m is black1 ! front ( ! tight coat "o blaze ( gold embroid]y2 & ! (ficial sword is susp5d$ f a n>r[ belt4 ,9 ,turkey1 z else:]e1 int]national int]c\rse has gradually l$ to ! disappe>ance ( ^? sali5t features :i* make = ! *>act]i/ic 9 dress4 ,9 ,con/ant9ople ! (ficial classes we> ! conv5tional g>b ( ,we/]n ,europe1 ) ! "o notewor?y exception ( ! fez1 a r$ clo? cap surm\nt$ by a black silk tassel4 ,fr5* fa%ions are p]mitt$ 9 ! privacy ( ! h>em1 b etiquette decrees t ! wom51 be=e !y g out1 %all ex*ange ^! = a simple toilet ( nun-l sev]ity2 & ! ladies ( ! ,sultan's h\sehold1 :o are nev] se5 9 public unless 9 a c>riage or boat1 don an all-envelop+ mantle ( black silk 9 w9t] & ( "s light %ade 9 summ]2 & ov] ?is two :ite veils are worn4 ,! fir/ cov]s ! face z f> z ! bridge ( ! nose1 & ! second is drawn across ! br[s1 %r\d+ ! head & leav+ only ! eyes visible4 ,b 9 tru? ^! ya%maks are s transp>5t t !y s]ve to enhance r ?an conceal ! *>ms1 natural & artificial1 ( ! we>]4 ,?r\gh ! %imm]+ :ite drap]y ! fl[]-deck$ hair is cle>ly se51 & romantic 9 ! extreme is ! effect ( a small boat ) ?ree r[]s1 & a veil$ figure "u a flutt]+ lace p>asol1 glid+ swiftly ov] ! sun-kiss$ wat]s ( ! ,bosphorus4 ,! walk+ dress 9 vogue 9 mod]n ,con/ant9ople is ev5 pla9]4 ,x consi/s ( a black silk skirt & a silk cape to ! wai/1 ! cape be+ provid$ ) an additional piece to cov] ! head1 & an ess5tial complem5t is a %ort veil ( close black net4 ,9 summ] black is ex*ang$ = light col\rs1 b ! /yle rema9s ! same4 ,! prie/s1 ) true ecclesia/ical fidelity to tradition1 h rema9$ con/ant to ! old-_w /yle ( dress+2 & to ?is day !y cut picturesque figures 9 a r$ fez encircl$ by a n>r[ :ite turban1 loose tr\s]s kept 9 place by a ca%m]e %awl1 d>k yell[ 9 col\r & ( great beauty ( design1 & a black caftan1 a g>m5t almo/ id5tical ) t ( ! cassock worn by ! cl]gy ( ! ,*ur* ( ,engl&4 ,ano!r survival :i* is famili> to ! casual visitor to ,con/ant9ople is ! dress ( c]ta9 lab\r]s1 consi/+ ( baggy pantaloons to ! knee or a little beyond1 r$ %oes1 a long sleev$ cotton %irt1 & a %ort1 sleeveless jacket ( blue or black mat]ial1 a r$ fez1 & a col\r$ %awl ab\t ! wai/4 ,=m]ly fur trimm+s d5ot$ great opul5ce & luxury1 & ! sk9s mo/ fav\r$ 7 erm9e1 sable1 m>t51 :ite fox1 & squirrel1 :i* 7 *ang$ accord+ to a prescrib$ =mula4 ,! date = "o to be disc>d$ & ano!r sub/itut$ 0 fix$ by ! ,sultan1 :o usually elect$ to appe> 9 new clo!s on a ,friday1 :5 att5d+ mosque4 ,! ,gr& ,vizi] 0 (ficially notifi$ ( ! int5d$ *ange1 :]eupon he imm$iately s5t ^w to ! entire ,c\rt1 :o ha/5$ to foll[ ! sov]eign's example4 ,! outdoor dress ( ladies 9 ^? days 0 a l5g?y mantle ( d>k mat]ial1 :i* boa/$ long sleeves & a deep sailor coll> ( r$1 blue1 or gre5 sat92 ess5tial accessories be+ ! two :ite veils & top boots ( yell[ morocco4 ,heavy & sumptu\s1 ! g[n worn at home consi/$ ( baggy tr\s]s ( ?9 texture drawn 9 tightly at ! ankles1 supplem5t$ by a long sleev$ *emisette ( :ite musl9 trimm$ ) a peculi> k9d ( lace4 ,?is 0 met at ! bu/ by ! dress prop]1 a trail+ robe ( ri* mat]ial encircl$ by an embroid]$ belt fa/5$ by a jewell$ clasp & drawn d[n v l[ 9 front4 ,! sleeveless velvet mantle 0 edg$ ) velvet & fell to ! gr\nd1 & on ! head 0 a high turban ( embroid]$ musl9 surr\nd$ by a gold fillet set ) diamonds1 rubies1 & em]alds4 ,! hair 0 cut 9 a /raight fr+e across ! =ehead1 & arrang$ 9 b&s ov] ! e>s4 ,turki% wom5 h always display$ a great fondness = jewell]y1 & mod]n etiquette r5d]s a diamond ti>a incumb5t ^u ! bride ( any social /&+ :atsoev]4 ,mu* ( ! fasc9ation ( ! des]t1 its my/]y & its appeal to ! imag9ation1 is embodi$ 9 ! ,arab4 ,! eye travels ov] ! tall figure1 /raight z a palm tree1 drap$ 9 ! long folds ( ! burn\s1 ) ! same baffl$ s5se ( inquiry1 ! same subdu$ excitem5t & expectation ) :i* x looks across ! arid s& /ret*+ out to ! horizon & beyond4 ,:at re/less fev] consumes ?is /atuesque figure1 impell+ him ev] to be on ! move8 ,:]e does 8 que/ lead amid ! dunes & burn+ s&1 & :at is ! p[] t keeps him et]nally a w&]] 9 t sil5t l&8 ,vaguely "o realises ! subtle aff9ity betwe5 ! two--! nameless spell :i* ! des]t ca/s ov] h] sons4 ,! dress ( ! ,arab1 picturesque ?\gh x is1 w\ld seem to h be5 expressly design$ ) a view to af=d+ ! utmo/ possible protection to ! head4 ,! ca*i1 a little felt cap1 r$1 br[n1 or :ite1 & surm\nt$ by a silk tassel 9 a contra/+ %ade1 is common to all4 ,two1 & frequ5tly ?ree1 are worn1 "o above ! o!r1 ! topmo/ be+ inv>iably r$4 ,conceal+ ! ca*i is ! hak1 an ample :ite drap]y drawn l[ on ! =ehead & fall+ curta9-wise ab\t ! face4 ,x is held 9 place by "o or m tightly-fitt+ r+s compos$ ( camel's or goat's hair1 press$ firmly d[n on ! head1 & is ( su* lib]al dim5sions z to envelop ! entire figure above a %irt contriv$ f f9e :ite wool4 ,ov] all is flung ! burn\s1 a volum9\s mantle ( pla9 or /rip$ mat]ial :i* c be arrang$ 9 a v>iety ( ways4 ,sometimes x is ti$ at ! ?roat ) /r+s tipp$ ) tassels1 & at o!rs x is wrapp$ ab\t ! body 9 classic folds ) "o end flung ov] ! left %\ld]4 ,s&als are worn on ! b>e feet1 & ! be>d is long & po9t$4 ,! co/ume ( ! *ief ( a w>rior tribe diff]s 9 detail1 al?\gh reta9+ ! *>act]i/ic features4 ,! s&als are supplem5t$ by high lea!r side-pieces1 op5 up ! front & ) ! tops decorat$ ) tassels4 ,! %ort1 tightly-fitt+ coat is trimm$ ) embroid]y & m tassels1 & reveals a wide expanse ( :ite ve/ & a fold$ belt ( brilliantly-hu$ silk4 ,! baggy tr\s]s t]m9ate at ! knees1 :]e !y are met by /rip$ /ock+s4 ,! hips are encircl$ by a %awl1 :i* is knott$ at ! left side2 & on ! head is ! inevitable hak1 surm\nt$ by a l>ge sauc]-brimm$ hat compos$ ( fea!rs & conspicu\s = a dome-%ap$ cr[n4 ,! burn\s fa/5s ) tassels at ! ?roat1 & is flung back f ! %\ld]s1 tassels reappe>+ at r>e int]vals r\nd ! hem4 ,9 t[ns ,arab wom5 are always m or less veil$1 :ile ^? lead+ ! free life ( ! des]t disp5se ) :at !y deem sup]flu\s drap]y & *oose = ord9>y occasions attire ( ! scantie/ description1 m]ely consi/+ ( a simple robe to ! ankles1 sleeveless & conf9$ by a n>r[ girdle4 ,on days ( gr& c]emonial ?is is ex*ang$ = a long1 fl[+ g[n1 ! hem & elb[-sleeves edg$ ) fr+e1 & drap$ ) big cotton h&k]*iefs 9 vivid plaid designs4 ,"o ( ^! is drawn closely r\nd ! head1 & ! ends are flung back to float beh9d 9 picturesque dis>ray2 a second is p9n$ at ! "r hip & aga9 on ! left %\ld]2 f ! neck hang bead *a9s1 & e available item ( enamell$ jewell]y is display$ on diff]5t p>ts ( ! body4 ,! p5d5t silv] e>-r+s are ( impos+ size & weight1 & wide bracelets cov] ! arms1 :ile1 9 ! case ( a woman =tunate en\gh to be ! "m ( a son1 a di/+ui%+ ornam5t dangles 9 ! c5tre ( ! =ehead1 :5ce ! hair is drawn back & arrang$ 9 a coil on ! nape ( ! neck4 ,?is jewel %e =feits ^u ! bir? ( a daught]1 & %e recov]s x only if %e be bless$ by ano!r son4 ,,*apt] ,,xv ,,( ,,fancy ,,dress ,! fancy-dress ball ( private ent]prise has n[adays comp>atively little patronage4 ,! ho/ess is will+1 b ! gue/ is weak1 & :ile idl5ess is at ! root ( mo/ social pleasure1 ! ef=t requir$ to assume ! virtue or vice ( "s o!r p]sonality is plac$ )\t ! pale ( popul>ity4 ,!re h be51 ( c\rse1 "s hi/orical exceptions1 su* z ! fam\s balls giv5 by ! ,du*ess ( ,devon%ire & ! ,c\ntess ( ,w>wick1 b simil> triumphs seem sc>cely possible except 9 ^! exalt$ circles1 :5 ! att5dance is great because n to be pres5t is to argue y\rself unask$4 ,!re are public fancy-dress balls 9 pl5ty1 & ! ,ice ,c>nival has j liv$ its little day--or night1 & n[ & aga9 "s d>+ creature1 unv]s$ 9 ! ways ( h] _w1 issues invitations ) ! words ,fancy ,dress pr9t$ on ! corn] ( ! c>d1 :i* decl>es h] det]m9ation to be ,at ,home at "s club or ano!r4 ,b disappo9tm5t g5]ally waits ^u ! result3 ! numb]s :o accept are few1 & ( ^! _m w consid] !mselves exempt f we>+ ! motley1 & w beg ! "q 9 ! ,w9dsor uni=m ( r$ fac+s to ! dress coat4 ,mo/ m5 c&idly confess to feel+ !mselves fools array$ 9 any b ! mo/ conv5tional co/ume1 & x is only ! vanity ( a few t w yield to ! attractions ( be+ a velvet-clad ,cavali]1 a sla%$ ,romeo1 or a b$iz5$ ,beaucaire4 ,a woman1 on ! o!r h&1 delights 9 be+ somebody else1 & sc>cely a c\ntry h\se p>ty comes to its close 9 w9t] "t )\t "s attempt at dress+ up1 ! head-dress d9n] be+ q an e/abli%$ function1 :5ce1 )\t d\bt1 mu* amusem5t may be evolv$ & mu* +5uity result4 ,! success ( ! head-dress 9 influ5c+ ! entire appe>ance gives1 ( c\rse1 pro( to my fav\rite dogma1 t ! cr[n+ po9t is ! po9t ( importance 9 co/ume4 ,"t & opportunity 9 ! pa/ h exhau/$ ! decorative delights ( simulat+ "s fl[]1 b al?\gh su* tactics are di/9ctly common-place1 yet few frocks look pretti] ?an ^! :5 well plann$4 ,"o ( ! mo/ successful ,i c recall repres5t$ a fu*sia1 & x _h a purple velvet skirt cut 9 po9t$ tabs1 & bore an ov]-skirt simil>ly treat$ ( crimson silk2 ! tight-fitt+ %ort bodice 0 ( ! pale/ gre51 cream-col\r$ /ock+s 9 pale gre5 sat9 %oes appe>$ b5ea? ^!1 :ile ! hat 0 an entire fu*sia1 violet1 purple1 gre51 & cream be+ all dispos$ 9 _! prop] places4 ,?is 0 easy en\gh to make1 & facility mu/ be an advantage1 ev5 z economy1 9 ! plann+ ( a dress = ! c>nival1 s9ce1 aft] all1 x is sc>cely likely to make its appe>ance on m ?an "o occasion4 ,an orig9al idea = :i* we c give ?anks to ! ,fates is ! ,gooseb]ry-fool's dress1 :i* may be compass$ ) petticoats ( pale-gre5 silk fr+$ ) gooseb]ries ( padd$ silk1 & on ! head a fool's cap ) p5d5t gooseb]ries z bells4 ,z a dress easy ( a*ievem5t ,i c quote t "o sket*$ "h 9 col\r1 ! ,seville ,orange4 ,! dress & bodice ( orange-col\r$ silk be> an application ( padd$ oranges & leaves on ! skirt1 b5ea? a *5ille fr+e ( black ) heavy nett+1 velvet /ream]s & oranges are us$ at discretion to adorn ! hair1 & ! petticoats b5ea? ! yell[ skirt are ( gre51 ! /ock+s & %oes be+ ( ! same tone4 ,at a fancy-dress ball ! co/ume :i* is m]ely orig9al & n pretty %\ld be condemn$ except :5 ! novelty prize is ! desid]atum ( ! occasion4 ,!re h be5 "s rem>kable co/umes design$1 :i* h proclaim$ e sci5tific inv5tion1 & o!rs :i* h illu/rat$ topical sc5es & curr5t ev5ts1 involv+ mu* special prep>ation & pr9t+1 & inv>iably pres5t+ "s difficulty :5 ! great "q ( head-dress _h to be answ]$ becom+ly4 ,x is n easy to convey a ,m>coni sy/em z a hat1 nor c x be consid]$ a simple task to inve/ a coiffure elegantly ) ! be/ pr9ciples ( an air-%ip1 ev5 ?\gh ! ladies ( long ago saw fit to cr[n !mselves ) ! la/ cry 9 ,armadas4 ,x is on record t ! audaci\s actor1 ,samuel ,foote1 di/+ui%$ himself by appe>+ at a masqu]ade 9 an abnormally exagg]at$ c>icature ( ?is fa%ion--a policy :i* l$ m directly to ! discomfiture ( ,samuel ,foote ?an to any s]i\s contempt = ! fa%ions he held up to ridicule4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,seville ,,orange4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,botticelli ,,danc+-,,dress4 ,an easy & popul> mann] ( solv+ ! problem ( :at to we> is to reproduce ! dress :i* is be+ worn by ! h]o9e ( "s v fav\r$ play4 ,vronique1 9 h] pale-gre5 silk & :ite musl9 drap]ies1 0 a rec5t opportunity mu* adopt$1 & = ye>s no fancy-dress ball 0 complete )\t at lea/ ?ree ,kate ,h>dca/les1 :ile ,juliets 7 to be f\nd 9 e doorway1 & a danc+ ,fau/ w\ld lack no *oice ( ,m>g>ets4 ,! ,calico ball proclaims itself pre-em95tly ?rifty 9 its int5tion1 & rem>kably pretty effects may be obta9$ ) cotton fabrics1 if suffici5t intellig5ce be us$ 9 ! design ( ! dresses4 ,to a*ieve ! effect ( an old pr9t1 :ite crpe cotton & pale blue sate51 ) a /raw bonnet b&$ ) ! blue & a p9k rose b5ea?1 may be recomm5d$ z useful +r$i5ts4 ,! ,m>cus ,/one girl1 z we famili>ly call a maid5 clad 9 :ite musl9 ) a frill$ fi*u1 is ano!r h]o9e ^: frock l5ds itself readily to *eap mat]ial1 & we h always at our disposal ! ev]-popul> r$1 :ite1 & blue flag1 yet bunt+ is n ! mo/ com=table ( fabrics = ! en?usia/ic danc]4 ,! embodim5t ( ! ,seasons1 al?\gh consid]ably hackney$1 may safely be accompli%$ ) cottons & musl9s & swansd[n1 leaves1 & fl[]s2 & a v effective dress is ! ,ra9b[1 9 :i* ra9b[ crpe ( ,japanese manufacture is an ideal assi/ant4 ,*iffon is indisp5sable to ! success ( _m a frock4 ,9 a dress :i* %all repres5t ,smoke1 = in/ance1 ! *iffon ought to be ( a d>k-grey tone1 & y>ds & y>ds %\ld be w\nd ab\t ! figure & ! head1 ! sleeves be+ w+-%ap$1 ! /ock+s & %oes to mat*4 ,flames may also be embodi$ ) orange-r$ & yell[ *iffon1 drap$ r\nd ) lib]ality1 x be+ und]/ood 9 bo? ^! cases t a ?91 tightly-fitt+ petticoat & "u-bodice be suppli$ ( pongee to mat* ! *iffon4 ,illu/ration3 ,,an ,,eighte5?-,,c5tury ,,pi]rot4 ,a good idea = a fancy-dress ball1 if n "o bas$ p]haps ^u ! true/ _s ( poetry1 is ,gre5s2 *iffon or silk ( _m %ades ( gre51 ) a head-dress 9 ! %ape ( a cabbage4 ,v successful1 ?\gh n inexp5sive1 is ! ,oy/] dress1 compos$ ( a v ?9 :ite sat9 l9$ ) p9k sat91 adorn$ at discretion ) fr+es ( pe>ls1 :ile a p9k *iffon *emisette is gaug$ to admiration ^u ! drap$ :ite sat9 bodice1 & ! coiffure ( ! we>] is surm\nt$ by a coronet ( oy/] %ells set on a b&eau ( pale-p9k *iffon1 ) a float+ veil ( a deep] p9k4 ,! ,:ite ,que5 f ,alice 9 ,wond]l& c be *eaply & suffici5tly repres5t$ by a frock ( :ite calico1 ) ! hoop$ skirt set 9 a succession ( ?ickly padd$ rolls1 ! hair net ( :ite *5ille1 surm\nt$ by a cr[n ( :ite c>dbo>d pa9t$ ) ! title4 ,+5i\s1 b p]haps n v becom+1 is a dress ( :ite l951 ) a big clock pa9t$ 9 ! middle ( ! skirt1 ! h&s po9t+ to1 say1 #e ,a4,m41 ) ! obvi\s purpose ( sugge/+ t ! we>] is ,bett] late ?an nev]4 ,a "* :i* nev] fails to attract at ! gay c>nival is ,mephi/opheles1 ! fem99e or mascul9e v>iety be+ alike adopt$ ) avidity1 9 bright r$1 fea!r 9 ! cap1 & a little %\ld]-cape1 & spangles complete4 ,a good co/ume = a man is ! ,druid1 :5 he c arrange volum9\s :ite drap]ies z he w1 & take unto himself ! lib]ty ( ! mi/letoe wrea?4 ,a popul> habit prevails ( embody+ ! names ( c]ta9 illu/rat$ j\rnals1 & repres5t+ ! titles ( "s books4 ,"s d>+ innovator sugge/s labell+ himself z a ,doctor1 & v[s he repres5ts ! ,d>k ,lant]n1 & ! pr9ciple op5s up a l>ge field = selection4 ,:y %\ld n an ord9>y ev5+-dress-coat$ g5tleman be labell$ ,! ,sph9x's ,lawy]1 & ,! ,com+ ,race be express$ by ! ,ox=d & ,cambridge crews limn$ on sat92 & ,! ,imag9ative ,man might h a pair ( w+s fix$ to ! %\ld]s ( 8 ord9>y broadclo?1 a sign t he imag9es himself an angel4 ,! gr\nd is fruitful ( sugge/ion4 ,fancy me 9 fancy dress1 s+s "s gay lady 9 "s gay play1 & ! notion is full ( fasc9ation1 :i* may be/ be realis$1 n by ! borr[+ ( clo!s1 b by mak+ !m1 plann+ !m1 inv5t+ !m1 &1 above all1 we>+ !m ) grace4 ,we h pass$ ! days & nights :5 we ye>n$ to repres5t "s tragic figure--:5 to appe> z ,m>ie ,anto9ette or ,m>y ,que5 ( ,scots seem$ ! p9nacle ( delight4 ,gone too are ! times :5 ! repres5tation ( ! lamp-%ade w\ld exhau/ ! inv5tive p[] ( ! _m1 & fl$ are our desires to coquette z a ,columb9e or flit z a fairy 9 :ite tulle4 ,9 an assembly :]e none are mask$1 a mask$ girl may attract conspicu\s att5tion1 a monk :o nev] draws c[l f 8 face may h a foll[+ ( ! curi\s2 %e :o w\ld dress z ,money1 9 gold or yell[ sat91 j+l+ ) gold5 co9s1 may be assur$ t %e w be run aft]1 & %e :o repres5ts ,cleopatra1 or "s o!r ,ori5tal que51 blaz+ ) jewels1 w n be all[$ to sit 9 a corn]4 ,an audaci\s selection is ! co/ume ( ! ,wallfl[] 9 gold & br[n1 :i* looks its be/ :5 made 9 *iffon & velvet4 ,z a rule1 x mu/ be admitt$ t ! f9e/ fancy dress looks ! be/1 & h[ev] *>m+ may be ! effects arriv$ at ) musl91 cotton1 crpe1 & calico1 %e :o /&s out 9 ! va/ cr[d w be %e :o has ! mo/ magnific5t clo!s4 ,! glories ( brocade & sat9 & velvet w always hold supreme sway1 alli$ to "s di/9ctively gr& head-dress elevat$ f ! head on a frame & b&$ ) jewels1 ) a long diaphan\s veil fl[+ into a sumptu\s l5g? ( tra94 ,! spl5didly glori\s is only rivall$ by ! d>kly my/]i\s1 & ! maid5 ( ! ,ya%mak1 if only %e has ! liquid eye t speaks ! flirtati\s s\l1 & ! veil$ ,sorc]ess1 if h] wit be suffici5t to c>ry ! situation1 may be q irresi/ible3 = always ! unkn[n allures4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,s\? ,,sea ,,isl&]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,knave ,,( ,,diamonds4 ,an idea :i*1 to say ! lea/ ( x1 sav\rs no?+ ( conceit is to select ! co/ume ( a ,s\? ,sea ,isl&]1 & x is "o mo/ easily contriv$ ) a sate5 f\ndation ov]sewn ) fea!rs1 & surm\nt$ by a head-dress ( erect plumes dispos$ 9 wild confusion above locks app>5tly un9flu5c$ by ! p]suasive bru% or comb4 ,y c see ! result pictur$1 & note ! contra/ ( ! sleek knave ( diamonds1 ^: dress %\ld be express$ 9 r$ & blue & :ite & yell[1 ) black silk /ock+s4 ,9 decid+ ^u a co/ume = a fancy-dress ball1 ! fir/ ?\ght ( ! revell] %\ld be to secure ! becom+ & ! suitable1 & to be successful ! *oice %\ld be ma9ly influ5c$ by 8 or h] p]sonality4 ,i q realise ! problem to be a difficult "o1 s9ce happily we h n ! gift giv5 to u to see ourselves z o!rs see u1 else %\ld we nev] meet a podgy ,mephi/opheles bulg+ out ( 8 clo!s1 nor an att5uat$ ,juno1 nor a dusky ,desdemona1 nor a buxom ,puck4 ,mo/ arti/ic & felicit\s results may be obta9$ f copy+ co/umes 9 old pictures2 & visits to ! ,national ,gall]y1 & an aft]noon sp5t at ! ,wallace ,collection1 w prove !mselves at once a pr(it & a pleasure1 & an easy guide t[>ds ! selection ( ! appropriate dress4 ,x is advisable on su* occasions to be accompani$ by ! k9d fri5d :o1 )\t fe> to risk a reproa*1 w c\nsel ) all wisdom1 & temp] y\r ambitions to y\r p]sonality4 ,an admirable item 9 ! programme ( ! fancy-dress ball is ! quadrille1 ! lanc]s1 or ! cotillon1 :i* %all be danc$ by p clad 9 co/umes ( ! same p]iod1 su* h>mony be+ a special pleasure to ! behold]1 :o may nev]!less also glean "s ent]ta9m5t f ! spectacle ( ! n9ete5?-c5tury ,columb9e hobnobb+ ) ! f\rte5?-c5tury monk2 & may no d\bt get "s satisfaction f ! sight ( ,cleopatra 9 ! arms ( ! ,devil4 ,b ,i w l+] no long] lightly 9 ! realms ( fancy dress1 b p5etrate ! d>k dep?s ( ,dom9oes & ,masks1 leav+ ! _m illu/rations 9 ^! pages cull$ f ! c5turies to speak ! la/ ^w ( selection ) mo/ flu5t & expressive tongue4 ,,*apt] ,,xvi ,,( ,,dom9oes ,,& ,,masks ,italian 9 conception1 ! dom9o is ( ecclesia/ical orig91 & z su* has reta9$ its monki% aspect ?r\gh\t ! _m *anges rung by fa%ion4 ,9 its primitive =m x consi/$ ( a long1 loose robe ( black mat]ial ) a c[l atta*m5t :i* completely cov]$ ! head4 ,dur+ ! middle ages1 &1 9 fact1 z late z ! sixte5? c5tury1 x con/itut$ ! popul> travell+ co/ume ( ^? engag$ ^u secret missions4 ,disguis$ 9 ! habit common to ! c\ntless hordes ( monks & o!r pi\s m5dicants :o infe/$ ! c\ntry1 x 0 an easy matt] to g1 unnotic$1 f end to end ( ,europe1 ! g>b protect+ its we>] & ensur+ him immunity f criticism or inquiry4 ,its s]viceable %ape & virtue ( concealm5t l$ to ! univ]sal adoption ( ! dom9o1 until x actually became z mu* an in/itution z ! toga ( anci5t ,rome4 ,clad 9 its all-envelop+ folds1 ! hood drawn well =w>d & ! face mask$1 ! dom9o =m$ an ideal dress = intrigue1 love adv5tures1 conspiracy1 ball1 r\t1 procession1 & ev5+ we> 9 g5]al ov] a gala co/ume4 ,x ow$ its fir/ entry into le monde o l'on s'amuse to ^? ,v5etian orgies & wild midnight revels enc\rag$ by ! ,c\ncil ( ,t5 z a means :]eby ! att5tion & en]gies ( ! y\? ( ! capital ( ! ,adriatic might be div]t$ f politics4 ,:5 ! gay _w made ! dom9o its own1 fa%ion decre$ t x %\ld reta9 its orig9al %ape1 & ?is x has cont9u$ to d d[n to ! pres5t4 ,! same cons]vatism did n ext5d to col\r4 ,z a matt] ( fact x has1 at "o "t & ano!r1 appe>$ 9 all %ades1 & 9 e appropriate v>iety ( texture1 l9$ or unl9$2 9 two or m tones1 self-col\r$1 trimm$1 or pla91 sumptu\s or sev]e1 accord+ to ! ta/es & incl9ation ( ! we>]4 ,a man's dom9o1 z typical ( to-day z ( five hundr$ ye>s ago1 consi/s ( a long1 ample robe ( sc>let ca%m]e ga!r$ into a pla9 yoke pip$ ) sat94 ,?ree small ca%m]e buttons fa/5 x snugly f ! ?roat d[nw>ds1 & sat9 ribbon ties x across ! *e/4 ,! peak$ hood is l9$ ) sat9 & weight$ ) a heavy silk tassel1 & ov] ! %\ld]s falls a %ort1 pleat$ cape4 ,( ! angel ord]1 ! wide1 po9t$ sleeves are turn$ back to all[ a n>r[ glimpse ( sat91 ! fold held 9 place by a cord loop & a dim9utive gold button sewn to ! "u arm seam imm$iately above ! wri/4 ,t ! religi\s orig9 ( ! dom9o 0 nev] lo/ sight ( is illu/rat$ by ! anecdote ( ! dissipat$ "y revell] :o1 leav+ a mask$ ball 9 ! grey dawn1 0 met by an indignant fa!r1 :o proce$$ to load him ) reproa*es on ! subject ( 8 dissolute mode ( life4 ,aft] li/5+ = "s "t 9 filial sil5ce1 ! son made ! witty answ]3 ,beati qui moriuntur 9 ,dom9o4 ,f ,italy ! fa%ion ( we>+ dom9oes spread to ,france1 & !nce to ,engl&4 ,9 ,p>is ! vogue rea*$ its height "u ,l\is ,,xiii4 & ,l\is ,,xiv4 ,dur+ ! reigns ( bo? mon>*s1 & m especially ! latt]1 masqu]ades & mask$ balls 7 ! fav\rite amusem5ts ( ! ,c\rt4 ,_m ent]ta9m5ts 7 giv5 at :i* dom9oes 7 compulsory = m51 ! ,k+ alone be+ exempt f ?is rule4 ,l\is ,,xiv4 g5]ally elect$ to appe> 9 a :ite dom9o ( transp>5t musl9 :i* m]ely veil$1 )\t 9 any way conceal+1 ! gala dress b5ea?4 ,dom9oes at ?is p]iod 7 ri*ly trimm$1 & contriv$ f co/ly mat]ials4 ,"u ! ,reg5cy mask$ balls 7 in/itut$ at ! ,op]a4 ,at ^! public functions1 safegu>d$ by ! practically imp5etrable disguise ( a dom9o1 all classes ( society mix$ indiscrim9ately4 ,if tales ( ! "t are to be believ$1 _m a gallant has %ad[$ a dom9o ! entire ev5+1 only to make ! humiliat+ discov]y t ! coquetti% c\ntess ( 8 dreams 0 a tripe-sell] f ! m>ket4 ,) ! fall ( ! ,fr5* mon>*y ! dom9o deg5]at$ into an abuse1 & 0 f9ally aboli%$1 except+ = su* occasions z c>nivals & fancy-dress balls4 ,! dom9oes worn by wom5 diff] f ^? worn by m5 9 t !y inv>iably manage to /rike a di/+ui%+ fem99e note4 ,! textures employ$ are light]1 be+ usually s(t sat91 silk1 or m\ssel9e de soie4 ,! hood1 in/ead ( p>tak+ ( ! sev]ity ( a c[l1 is r\nd 9 %ape &1 = mo/ fe/ive occasions1 is trimm$ ) fluffy frills ( silk1 *iffon1 & lace1 fur!r elaboration consi/+ ( fl[]s4 ,a *>act]i/ic example is ( =get-me-n-hu$ b5gal9e l9$ ) pale p9k4 ,! yoke sp>kles ) silv] sequ9s & ! r\nd hood & %all[ cape display frills p[d]$ ) glitt]+ paillettes1 & reveal inn] frills ( fray$ p9k silk & cobwebby lace ! t9t ( old ivory1 a bun* ( %ad$ roses be+ fa/5$ ne> ! left temple & ano!r at ! ?roat4 ,at ! foot is a fl\nce :i*1 :5 ! we>] walks1 %[s occasional glimpses ( p9k silk & cream lace1 & ! wide sleeves be> sequ9-embroid]$ cuffs & lace ruffles4 ,a qua9t dom9o is ( gauze ( an opaque :it5ess1 /rewn ) black & gold spots ( v>y+ sizes1 ! hood ga!r$ up 9 ! middle b5ea? a big :ite poppy1 ! petals tipp$ ) gold & ! c5tre ( black silk4 ,= obvi\s reasons1 _m dom9oes1 bo? = m5 & wom51 7 made rev]sible4 ,occasionally1 9 addition to ! hood1 a t[]+ erection 0 worn on ! head1 caus+ ! we>] to appe> ( sup]natural height1 & ! m my/]i\s4 ,& ,i pause "h to obs]ve ) emphasis t at a mask$ ball a dom9o is inve/$ ) special int]e/ :5 surm\nt$ by a fanta/ic headge>1 & t su* an incongru\s alliance z t ( a :ite-p[d]$ & curl$ wig & ! black silk dom9o %ap$ z a gab]d9e1 ) a full hood & lace-frill$ silk mask1 creates an effect b5ea? :i* an id5tity may be mo/ easily conceal$4 ,f> m desirable1 h[ev]1 9 ! int]e/s ( ! beautiful1 is x to select ! dom9o & head-dress 9 sympa?y2 & ,i may quote z a successful bl5d a long cloak ( jet-spangl$ net1 ) jet-spangl$ hood fall+ r\nd ! %\ld]s1 & a high-po9t$ head-dress ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 ) a p5d5t jet veil & a jet mask to cov] ! face1 ! *9 be+ held by a few folds ( net to mat* ! veil4 ,dom9oes made ( net ov]sewn ) petals ( fl[]s1 ! hoods adorn$ to mat* & well drawn ov] ! hair1 & ! masks ( lace 9 butt]fly %ape1 may also be quot$ z decorative2 & s too may ! dom9o ( accordion-pleat$ silk1 b cu/om has some:at /al$ ! *>ms ( ?is1 & ,i w\ld vote r = ! m sumptu\s brocade1 & urge ! importance ( lib]ality 9 its folds4 ,! mask has1 at all times1 be5 ! ess5tial complem5t ( ! dom9o4 ,9 its ord9>y =m x consi/s ( a /iff %ape arrang$ to fit ! face z f> z ! upp] lip4 ,m\ld$ to ! nose1 x is provid$ ) slits = ! eyes & no/rils1 & fa/5$ by means ( a button & a n>r[ ela/ic b&4 ,n[ & !n x is edg$ ) a frill ( lace :i* conceals ! *9 & fur!r enhances ! disguise4 ,black sat9 & velvet are mo/ frequ5tly employ$ to cov] ?is k9d ( mask1 ! latt]1 by ! way1 be+ f> m becom+2 b ! black lace mask is an innovation ( mod]n times1 sometimes fail+ 9 its purpose ( disguise1 & ! *iffon spangl$ mask may be accr$it$ ) l disadvantage4 ,col\r$ masks1 or l\ps1 z !y are t]m$ 9 ,fr5*1 are also worn1 b h little to comm5d !m1 be+ grotesque & ugly4 ,au?orities diff] conc]n+ ! orig9 ( masks4 ,! mo/ g5]ally accept$ !ory is t !y 7 fir/ employ$ at ! fe/ivals ( ,bac*us1 & rec5t discov]ies h prov$ !m to h be5 9 use 9 anci5t ,egypt1 num]\s specim5s hav+ be5 f\nd at ! heads ( mummy-cases4 ,^! e>ly examples are compos$ ( a sub/ance closely resembl+ papi]-ma*1 & pa9t$ 9 imitation ( life4 ,x 0 9 ,greece1 h[ev]1 t ! mask rea*$ its apo!osis4 ,!re x =m$ an indisp5sable factor 9 classic drama4 ,its introduction on ! /age is attribut$ to ,!spis1 :o is held to h sub/itut$ masks = cosmetics4 ,!re is no confus+ ! mask peculi> to ! ,greek !atre ) t ( any o!r c\ntry or p]iod4 ,! indu/ry rose to ! dignity ( an art1 z ! beauty-lov+ ,hell5es w\ld tol]ate no?+ ugly or ill-made on _! actors4 ,! dramatic masks consi/$ ( an entire head1 ) hair1 be>d1 & ornam5ts arrang$ 9 exact accordance ) ! "* to be portray$4 ,all ! features 7 /rongly acc5tuat$1 vividly col\r$1 & ( sup]natural size4 ,! eyes 7 deeply sunk51 ! nose exagg]at$1 & ! m\? op54 ,inside ! p>t$ lips 0 a metal con/ruction design$ to make ! voice c>ry a consid]able di/ance--a necess>y measure1 z all p]=mances took place 9 colossal op5-air build+s4 ,! mom5t an actor appe>$ ^u ! sc5e a glance at 8 mask suffic$ to det]m9e ! rle he 0 ab\t to play2 &1 :e!r mascul9e or fem99e1 ! details 7 equally exact4 ,h[ compreh5sive ! range ( selection 0 may be ga!r$ f ! fact t masks 7 broadly divid$ into ?ree great classes1 namely1 ,tragical1 ,comical1 ,satirical1 ea* ( :i* 0 9 turn subdivid$ z foll[s3-- #a4 ,eight masks ( old m51 typify+ diff]5ces ( age1 rank1 hum\r1 etc4 #b4 ,a s]ies ( elev5 masks ( "y m54 #c4 ,sev5 v>ieties ( masks ( slaves4 #d4 ,eighte5 masks ( wom54 ,9 addition to ! above1 ! masks depict+ gods & h]oes 7 plac$ 9 a sep>ate category4 ,^! nev] v>i$1 & ea* display$ ! attributes ( ! deity portray$4 ,?us ,acton appe>$ ) ! antl]s ( a de]1 ,argus ) a hundr$ eyes1 ,diana ) a cresc5t2 & s on4 ,! e>lie/ masks 7 fa%ion$ f wood fibre1 :i* 9 due "t gave place to lea!r1 & f9ally to wax4 ,9 ,rome ! art ( mask-mak+ 0 fur!r elaborat$4 ,trades & pr(essions 7 di/9ctively p]sonat$4 ,d\ble-fac$ masks 7 introduc$1 "o side repres5t+ laught] & ! o!r te>s1 s t by turn+ 8 "r or left pr(ile to ! audi5ce1 ! actor c\ld *ange 8 expression at w4 ,among ! ,romans ! use ( ! mask 0 n re/rict$ to ! !atre4 ,x 0 worn 9 processions1 & at c]ta9 fe/ivals1 notably ^? d$icat$ to ,pan1 :]e masks ( v9e leaves 7 cu/om>y4 ,a /range fun]al rite consi/$ ( a p]=mance giv5 by a com$ian we>+ a mask made 9 ! lik5ess ( ! defunct4 ,?is mumm]'s mission 0 to foll[ ! c(f91 act+ & recit+ ! sali5t features ( ! dead man's c>e]1 imp>tially sett+ =? bo? ! good & ! bad4 ,9 ! reign ( ,augu/us1 patrician ladies 7 9 ! habit1 :5 indoors1 ( we>+ masks delicately p]fum$ & treat$ ) cosmetics4 ,?is fa%ion 0 reviv$ by ,h5ry ,,iii4 ( ,france & 8 c\rti]s = ! pres]vation ( ! complexion4 ,! fall ( ! ,roman ,empire m>k$ ! disappe>ance ( ! mask f ! /age4 ,f !n onw>d x appe>$ only 9 pantomime1 :]e ! mask ( ,pun*9ello is famili> to ?is day4 ,! nutcrack] c\nt5ance1 ) its highly-col\r$ *eeks & t9kl+ bells1 is a survival ( extreme antiquity4 ,i pause to wond] :o ! old ,greek may h be5 :om ! mak] ( masks ?us immortalis$8 ,!re is a _w ( cynicism1 pa?os1 & philosophy 9 8 face4 ,i feel t he sorr[$1 & t x 0 n because he knew too little1 b because he knew too mu*4 ,! practice ( we>+ masks1 by private individuals 9 ev]yday life1 />t$1 z did ! fa%ion = dom9oes1 9 ,v5ice4 ,!re ! black sat9 & velvet masks1 /ill worn at fancy-dress balls & dur+ ,c>nival "t1 fir/ obta9$1 to be en?usia/ically adopt$ 9 ,france & ,engl& a little lat] on4 ,9 ! latt] c\ntry1 h[ev]1 ! use ( ! mask nev] deg5]at$ into an abuse z 9 ,france1 al?\gh masks became s fa%ionable 9 ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies1 t society ladies deem$ !m an ess5tial accessory to ! toilette4 ,!y 7 n always worn3 sometimes !y 7 c>ri$ 9 ! h& & held up to ! face only :5 necess>y4 ,! exclusive elect$ to appe> mask$ at ! !atre & o!r public places4 ,b ! univ]sal we>+ ( masks became su* a public m5ace & inc5tive to crime t 9 #aece an edict 0 issu$ 9 ,france prohibit+ ! fa%ion except+ dur+ ,c>nival "t4 ,"u ,h5ry ,,iv4 ! privilege 0 re/rict$ to ! nobility1 & x 0 made a capital crime = any common] to don a mask4 ,) ,l\is ,,xiii4 ! mask fell into tempor>y abeyance1 only to be reviv$ ) r5ew$ vig\r "u 8 successor4 ,! fir/ occasion ^u :i* ,l\is ,,xiv4 appe>$ 9 a mask 0 at ! ,palais ,c>d9al 9 ,janu>y #afef4 ,f t date until ,janu>y #affh he 0 an en?usia/ic support] ( ! vogue4 ,! fa%ion1 preval5t 9 #afej1 ( lad5+ masks ) sup]flu\s trimm+ 0 ( b %ort duration4 ,:ile ! craze la/$ a ru*+ ( lace adorn$ ! top1 a lace frill ! bottom1 & ! eyes 7 encru/$ ) v>i\s decorations to su* an ext5t t ladies1 desc5d+ f _! c>riages1 7 oblig$ to be l$1 x be+ impossible = !m to see4 ,! prepo/]\s vogue inspir$ ,sc>ron's ditty3 ,dirai-je comm5t ces fantasques ,qui port5t d5telles leurs masques ,en *am>r5t les tr\s des yeux ,croyant que leur masque en e/ mieux4 ,l its associate ! dom9o1 ! mask gradually fad$ away ) ! pass+ ( ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,9 ,italy x enjoy$ ! longe/ & mo/ undisput$ sway4 ,!re x 0 worn by all memb]s ( ! community1 includ+ ! cl]gy4 ,! ,c\ncil ( ,t51 ! ,inquisitors1 & ! memb]s ( ! ,holy ,(fice g5]ally1 bo? 9 ,italy & ,spa91 7 closely mask$ :5 employ$ ^u ! ex]cise ( _! t]rible functions4 ,c]ta9 unwritt5 b univ]sal & indisputable laws rule ! we>+ ( masks4 ,:e!r worn privately or 9 public1 its disguise has at all times & 9 all c\ntries be5 respect$ z inviolably sacr$4 ,to ! mask$ ! greate/ extravagance ( language & ge/ure is p]mitt$4 ,he is all[$ to indulge 9 acrid p]sonalities & proclaim sca?+ tru?s :i*1 ev5 if address$ to ! mon>* himself1 g unrebuk$4 ,to /rike a mask is a s]i\s (f5ce1 :ile 9 no class ( society1 h[ev] degrad$1 w\ld any "o d>e to unmask a woman4 ,yet ano!r pr]ogative entitles ! mask$ to invite any woman pres5t1 :e!r mask$ or n1 to dance ) him1 etiquette decree+ t ! que5 ( ! l& may n claim exemption f ?is rule4 ,de> to romance is ! mask$ highwayman1 :o fl\ri%$ until ! adv5t ( railways robb$ him ( 8 occupation2 & a grim figure is ev] ! mask$ headsman4 ,( num]\s romances1 none has equall$ 9 fasc9ation t ( ! imp5etrable my/]y ( le ,masque de ,f]4 ,held by _m to h be5 bro!r to ,l\is ,,xiv41 ?is /range prison] ( ,/ate gu>d$ 8 incognito to ! end4 ,he 0 nev] se5 )\t a pliable /eel mask provid$ ) a movable m\?piece to all[ ( 8 eat+ ) comp>ative ease4 ,o!r peculi>ities ( 8 7 8 fondness = exquisitely f9e l95 & 8 habit ( inv>iably dress+ 9 br[n4 ,no mode ev] inv5t$ has appeal$ s /rongly to ! imag9ation1 or giv5 rise to su* trag$ies & com$ies1 z t ( ! mask1 & no o!r has l$ its foll[]s to su* flights ( folly4 ,nev]!less1 ,i f9d myself sigh+ = ! days :5 x inve/$ ! neutral-t9t$ _w ) ! glam\r ( romance1 tw9 si/] ( my/]y1 :i* 0 ! prevail+ atmosph]e :5 fa%ion decre$ t m5 & wom5 %\ld assume a common disguise & flit1 %ad[-l1 among o!r nameless %ad[s ?r\gh ! complicat$ mazes ( _! social highways & byways4 ,,*apt] ,,xvii ,,( ,,mat]ials1 ,,! ,,corset1 ,,& ,,! ,,cr9ol9e ,! mat]ial "q seems to h be5 answ]$ 9 e c\ntry save ,engl&1 :]e ! initiative 9 manufacture is conspicu\s by its abs5ce1 ?\gh we h ?r\gh ! c5turies s successfully begg$1 borr[$1 /ol51 or acquir$ an exp]t k ( ! v>i\s textile arts1 t e manufactur$ fabric is n[ gri/ :i* may come f our mill4 ,! art ( clo?-mak+ ! e>ly ,britons le>n$ f ! ,romans1 b _! ambition t[>ds ?is indu/ry di$ aft] ! dep>ture ( _! in/ructors1 n actively ass]t+ itself aga9 until1 at ! sugge/ion ( ,philippa ( ,ha9ault1 "s ,flemi% weav]s e/abli%$ !mselves at ,norwi*--a policy evid5tly successful en\gh to induce ,edw>d ,,iii4 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury to invite a ,flemi% weav] to tea* ! art to su* ( our p z %all be incl9$ to le>n x4 ,! trade 0 />t$ at ,k5dal1 spread+ to ,york & !nce to _m diff]5t t[ns1 :]e !re grew up 9 due c\rse ! manufacture ( broadclo?1 baizes1 k]seys1 & s]ges1 ! ,nor? ( ,engl& !n1 z to ?is day1 hold+ ! be/ int]e/s ( ! clo? trades firmly 9 ! holl[ ( its h&4 ,x is int]e/+ to note t an ,act 0 pass$ =bidd+ all save ! ,k+ & ,que5 & h] *ildr5 to we> any clo? b t made 9 ,engl&1 = "h we may trace surely ! "w ( ! legitimate ance/or ( our passionate protectioni/1 ,joseph ,*amb]la94 ,b1 aft] all1 wooll5 clo? is dull /uff1 & ! fir/ on ! li/ ( fabrics aim+ at ! beautiful is clo? ( gold1 :i* made its bid = fame 9 ! days ( ,ri*>d ,,ii41 ^: patronage ( ! luxury 01 h[ev]1 mild 9 comp>ison ) t ( t pa/ ma/] 9 ! art ( prodigality1 ,h5ry ,,viii41 :o is said to h _h z _m z tw5ty-five suits ( clo? ( gold1 secur+ x at a price ( #djs4 p] y>d1 :i* does n seem a v extravagant sum to-day4 ,a textile us$ 9 ,engl& dur+ ! twelf? & ?irte5? c5turies is imp]ial1 wr\ght ) gold1 & cr$it$ ) be+ wov5 at ! work%ops kept by ! ,byzant9e ,emp]ors2 & gold also gave its assi/ance to ! mak+ ( a well-kn[n /uff 9 ! ,middle ,ages *ri/5$ baudek91 :i* lat] came to be a t]m signify+ any ri* silk4 ,a v>iety ( ! clo? ( gold 0 plunket clo? ( gold--plunket1 h[ev]1 be+ m prop]ly describ$ z a co>se wooll5 clo?2 yet x is au!ntic t ,ri*>d ,,iii4 _h a g[n l9$ ) ?is1 & 9 revels held by ,h5ry ,,viii4 at ,gre5wi* x 0 regi/]$ t !re 7 six ladies 9 crimos9 plunket embroid]$ ) gold & pe>ls1 s t fa%ion seems to h idealis$ ! homely plunket1 :i* 9 its orig9al /ate w\ld h be5 m suitably class$ ) home-spuns1 burnet1 russet1 & frieze4 ,9 ! f\rte5? c5tury taffeta 0 introduc$ into ,engl&1 & taffy 0 ! "n ( a wat]$ edition ( ?is1 :i* we owe to ! refugees1 :o cr[d$ "h 9 _! numb]s1 & made u famili> ) brocade among/ o!r novelties4 ,sat9 0 kn[n 9 ,engl& z e>ly z ! ?irte5? c5tury1 hav+ be5 import$ into ,europe f ,*9a1 b n a*iev+ mu* popul>ity ow+ to its exorbitant price1 ?\gh lat] ,h5ry ,,viii4 _h a great pr$ilection = x 9 r$4 ,among/ /uffs associat$ immortally ) hi/ory & romance are sackclo? & samite1 & ! latt]1 besides be>+ its fame d[n f biblical days1 has be5 cr$it$ ) possess+ e kn[n virtue t ! textile is heir to2 x 0 orig9ally1 no d\bt1 a heavy silk mat]ial wov5 ) a ?read ( six fibres1 & c>ry+ ?ick ^u its surface mo/ glossy hon\rs4 ,:5 ,sir ,launcelot came to ,k+ ,ar?ur1 ! poet says3 ,lancelot & ! que5e 7 cl$e1 ,9 robes ( a ri* we$e1 ,( samit :ite1 ) silv] %r$de4 ,& x is 9 :ite we inv>iably picture x1 yet m con/antly 9 old5 days x 0 made 9 r$4 ,suff]+ mu* *ange 9 its or?ography1 x 0 orig9ally writt5 samits1 lat] samit1 & f9ally inve/$ ) ! f9al e1 & yet :ile e record grants x a silk5 surface1 "s ,g]man s*ol>1 ow+ to ! circum/ance t to ?is day _! ^w samt expresses velvet1 is q conv9c$ t ! samit ( old 0 ( velvet sub/ance4 ,to ,*9a 0 accord$ ! privilege ( p]suad+ u p]man5tly ( ! *>ms ( brocade & velvet1 & ! descriptions ( ! m$ival velvets sugge/ t ?is c\ld h be5 no difficult task1 = !y include diap]$ velvets1 figur$ velvets1 *angeable velvets1 velvets figur$ ) :ite1 & velvets work$ ^u gold1 :ile ! ,g5oese & ! ,fr5* rivall$ ea* o!r 9 ! be/ manufacture ( ^!4 ,! mak+ ( l95 has be5 trac$ back to ! e>ly ,egyptians1 & ! art 0 br\ght to ,engl& by ! ,romans1 b a v f9e l95 d$icat$ to alt> clo?s & %irts 9 ! middle ages 0 fir/ manufactur$ at ,r5nes 9 ,brittany4 ,! ,engli% l95 trade made no great /ride until ! reign ( ,*>les ,i41 & lawn & cambric 7 fir/ greatly us$ 9 ,engl& 9 ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,fur z a trimm+ appe>s to h _h no popul> exi/5ce previ\s to ! ?irte5? c5tury1 b aft] ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,iii4 x be>s its "p bravely 9 romance & *ronicles1 erm9e be+ pre-em95t toge!r ) a fur kn[n z lettice1 :i* closely resembles x2 !re 7 lettice caps worn by ladies 9 ! reign ( ,elizabe?1 :o inde$ =bade _! we> to any b a g5tlewoman born1 hav+ arms1 & sable 0 p]mitt$ only to ! nobility & to c]ta9 (fic]s ( ! ,royal h\sehold 9 ! ,middle ,ages4 ,lace has paid = its success 9 a disput$ bir?place1 = bo? ,fl&]s & ,italy claim its fir/ manufacture1 ! exp]ts decl>+ 9 fav\r ( ! latt]1 & ass]t+ t ,italy bore ! art to ,spa9 & pass$ x on to ,fl&]s4 ,9 any case ,v5ice mu/ be grant$ ! fir/ prize = ! beauty ( its lace1 :i* 9 e>ly days 0 enri*$ ) gold & silv]4 ,ca5 is accord$ ! hon\r ( hav+ fir/ introduc$ blonde lace1 :ile ,france & ,switz]l& & ,belgium h all contribut$ _! %>e t[>ds ! p]fect+ ( ! mo/ fasc9at+ ( all fabrics1 & diff]5t ev5ts ( hi/ory h br\ght no small influ5ce to be> on ! popul>ity ( diff]5t laces 9 diff]5t p]iods1 ! =eign-made bone-lace obta9+ ! di/9ction ( be+ bani%$ f ,engl& by royal ord]4 ,9 ! reigns ( ! ,/u>ts1 lace adorn$ alike fem99e & mascul9e attire1 & ! coll> ( ! luckless ,k+ ,*>les ,i4 9 8 _m pictures by ,v&yke has /amp$ ! fact indelibly on our m9ds4 ,! ,commonweal? greatly affect$ ! manufacture ( lace 9 ,engl&1 ?\gh "s ( ! mo/ rigid ,puritans cont9u$ to we> ,fl&]s lace1 & ! dead body ( ! ,protector 0 rob$ 9 purple velvet1 erm9e1 & ri*e/ ,fl&]s lace--n s bad = ! simple c]em5ts ( ! greate/ sociali/ :o ev] liv$6 ,! passion = we>+ lace rea*$ its height 9 ,engl& 9 ! reign ( ,william & ,m>y1 :5 lace 0 indisp5sable to ! mo/ exalt$ we>]s ( ! commodes1 & its influ5ce 0 ess5tial on ! full cravats & ruffles4 ,9 ! reigns ( ,george ,i4 & ,george ,,ii41 ,brussels lace grew especially popul>2 b ,engli% lace rea*$ a pit* ( p]fection at ?is p]iod1 ,devon%ire be+ especially fam\s = ! indu/ry4 ,9 its delicate me%es lace has held captive to its *>ms _m e>ne/ /ud5ts :o h set d[n its biography 9 v>i\s volumes1 & to skim ^! hurri$ly is to d !m wrong2 s 9 pass+ ,i w\ld recomm5d _! pages to ! leisur$1 :ile *ronicl+ t we h kn[n lace ne$le-run or pill[-made = ne>ly f\r c5turies1 & t x 0 prec$$ by ! cut out1 ! appliqu1 & an embroid]y work$ 9 /iffly conv5tional design on net ) cords ( ?read4 ,! mo/ fai?ful & punctili\s ar*ologi/s confess t ! orig9 ( ! corset mu/ be writt5 d[n to ! cr$it or discr$it ( man1 = !y f9d ! bir? ( its exi/5ce may be dat$ 9 ! f> antiquity1 :5 ! savage made 8 hunt+ belt ( lea!r /iff5$ ) bone or h>d /ick held ) a ?ong ( hide1 & z decorative z useful1 s9ce x 0 adorn$ ) %ells & quills & s]v$ to hold ! knife or quiv]4 ,ovid recomm5ds ! fair ones ( 8 day to we> ^? +5i\s con/ructions :i* give l9es to ! bu/ & all x lacks1 :ile ,hom] describes ,juno z we>+ a ce9ture ornam5t$ ) a ?\s& fr+es1 & we are1 ( c\rse1 conv9c$ ( ! fact t %e borr[$ f ,v5us a fam\s ce/us :]e9 7 all ! pa9s & p5alties ( love4 ,! anci5t ,greeks & ,romans /]nly oppos$ ! corset1 & yet !y yield$ to ! necessity = b&s & belts to support ! bu/1 ?is b& be+ usually made ( embroid]$ lea!r4 ,!re is indisputable pro( t 9 ! e>lie/ days ( civilisation !re 0 9 use a v>iety ( contrivances = ! r$uction ( ! fem99e figure1 & 9 a mo/ int]e/+ *ronicle ,i read t ,among/ ! works ( art discov]$ among/ ! ru9s ( "o ( ! my/]i\s =e/ cities 9 ,s\? ,am]ica is a bas-relief repres5t+ a female figure :i*1 9 addition to a pr(usion ( massive ornam5ts1 we>s a complicat$ & elaborate wai/ b&age1 :i* by a sy/em ( circul> & transv]se fold+ & loop+ conf9es ! wai/ j bel[ ! ribs to ! hips4 ,:at c\ld be m conclusive8 ,"h is obvi\sly ! ance/ress ( ! /raight-front$ ,spcialit corset4 ,! orig9 ( ! ^w /ays comes f /ay1 to support2 ! t]m corset may h be5 develop$ f corps3 ! t]m corse1 h[ev]1 mu/ n be conf\nd$ ) x1 & ,plan* consid]s ?is %\ld apply m]ely to ! bodice ( a g[n4 ,! e>lie/ me?od ( mak+ ! /ay 0 ) pieces ( cane1 & ?is may be comp>$ fav\rably ) a v>iety obta9+ z lately z 9 ! reign ( ,que5 ,elizabe?4 ,?is 0 made ( /eel ) broad pieces ( /eel %ap$ to ! hips1 & clamp$ or h+$ "u ea* arm1 be+ /raightly /iff at ! top ( ! front & ! back1 :]e x rea*$ up to ! %\ld]-blades4 ,^! frames1 h[ev]1 7 n prim>ily us$ to r$uce ! wai/1 = !y 7 worn ov] a corset1 s t ! dress might yield n to ! weakness ( a s+le fold1 & t ! /oma*] might pres5t a front ( unruffl$ smoo?ness4 ,a developm5t ( ?is /ay %[$ x curv$ at ! top1 front1 & back1 some:at 9 ! outl9e ( ^? we we> n[1 b clamp$ toge!r d[n ! back1 & made ( ! /iffe/ ( iron1 & decorat$ ) c\ntless mean+less-look+ little holes & ap]tures4 ,?is 0 ! /yle adopt$ by ,ca!r9e ( ,m$ici1 :i* p]mitt$ h] ! que/ionable joy ( r$uc+ h] wai/ to ?irte5 in*es4 ,*ri/9e ( ,france1 we are told by ,jacob ! bibliophili/1 wore a ju/aucorps embroid]$ 9 gold & /udd$ ) preci\s /ones2 ?is 0 a rem>kable %ape1 n def9+ ! wai/ at all1 & f9i%$ (f ) an ind5t$ basque4 ,! fir/ m5tion ( :at may rightly be t]m$ ! corset is at ! end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 :5 ! dresses cut l[ 9 ! front introduc$ by ,isabella ( ,bav>ia 7 responsible = ! innovation1 & made popul> ! we>+ ( ! new g>m5t1 :i* 0 made 9 all k9ds ( mat]ials lac$ ei!r at ! front or at ! back4 ,at ! end ( ! fifte5? c5tury ! basqu9e 0 adopt$1 a corset ( /\t l95 or cotton ) a busk ( wood or metal at ! front4 ,rabelais says1 ,! ladies at ! ,c\rt ( ,francis ,i4 wore basqu9es1 & a silk camlet ov] _! *emises1 & x is ne$less to say t !y incurr$ ! displeasure ( ! prea*]s ( ! day2 inde$ ,*>les ,,ix4 & ,h5ry ,,iii4 issu$ sev]al /r+5t laws ) reg>d to ! corset1 be+ conv9c$ t x 0 highly injuri\s to ! heal? ( its we>]s1 & ! corps piqu :i* 0 worn 9 ?is reign 0 nei!r m nor less ?an an in/rum5t ( torture1 compress+ ! body into a h>d unyield+ m\ld1 ! spl9t]s ( wood (t5 te>+ ! sk94 ,until ! end ( ! sixte5? c5tury ! tailor _h ! monopoly ( corset-mak+1 & 8 me?ods seem to h be5 any?+ b t5d]4 ,x 0 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury t ,b5 ,jonson pa!tically compla9$ ,! :alebone man1 ,:o quilts ! bodies ,i h leave to span4 ,9 ! reign ( ,l\is ,,xv4 corsets 7 cut away on ! hips & lac$ at ! back1 ! long busks ( wood or /eel be+ only 9 ! front2 :alebone 0 us$ to /iff5 ! corset1 :i* 0 sometimes made 9 two pieces & lac$ "u ! arms1 & x 0 inv>iably suppli$ ) %\ld]-/raps1 & began 9 ^? days to take unto itself su* ri* mat]ials z brocade & sat9 embroid]$ 9 gold *5ille or silk4 ,! ,directoire p]iod produc$ a classic zone worn outside ! dress1 a mode t soon gave place to ! boneless corset1 a fleet+ fancy1 = all co/ume worn 9 ! "t ( ,l\is ,,xvi4 owes its greate/ *>m to ! /ays1 ! bodices be+ cut into long po9ts & fitt$ tightly f bu/ to wai/4 ,9 "s in/ances ^! bodices 7 sewn on to ! figure ( ! we>] aft] ! /ays _h be5 lac$ to _! extreme limit1 & _m ( ,hog>?'s figures prove ! influ5ce ( ! v /iff /ay1 ! figures be+ erect 9 an uncom=table degree1 = x is impossible to imag9e any human creature a*iev+ su* excell5ce ( c>riage )\t consid]able support f )\t1 & "s inconv5i5ce f )94 ,9 ! lat] days ( ! eighte5? c5tury great] com=t 0 grant$1 :5 ! %ort-wai/$ dress prevail$1 toge!r ) ! mo/ laudable ambition to copy ! fl[+ elegance ( ! classic p]iod4 ,b ! rule ( ease did n obta9 long1 & 9 ! e>ly times ( ! n9ete5? c5tury ! fa%ion ( tight lac+ 0 reviv$ ) en?usiasm1 /ays be+ compos$ ( b>s ( iron & /eel ) ! tops /iffly /eel$ s t ! %\ld]-/raps might be disp5s$ )4 ,wom5 suff]$ a craze = compression1 until ! six? decade ( ! n9ete5? c5tury1 :5 its influ5ce 0 some:at less ess5tial by reason ( ! ubiquity ( ! cr9ol9e1 :i* gave a semblance ( ! small wai/ to ! lea/ sl5d]4 ,! cr9ol9e boa/s z its great-great-gr&-"m ! f>?+ale or v]t+ale1 :i* 0 worn 9 ,france 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,ii41 :5 x is describ$ z a cage put on b5ea? ! petticoat to inflate x to extravagant ext5t4 ,x 01 h[ev]1 9 ! days ( ,elizabe? t ! f>?+ale rea*$ its apogee1 & accord+ to ,sir ,rog] de ,cov]ley made its we>]s look z if !y 7 /&+ 9 a drum4 ,e>ly 9 ,*>les ,i4's reign x w5t out ( fa%ion1 & :5 ,ca!r9e ( ,braganza & h] ,portuguese ladies wore x on com+ to ,london = h] m>riage ) ,*>les ,,ii41 ! ana*ronism attract$ cr[ds ( amus$ spectators4 ,! f>?+ale1 9 fact1 _h become obsolete1 to reappe>1 h[ev]1 9 ! some:at m conv5i5t =m ( ! hoop$ petticoat :i* swell$ 9 ! reign ( ,anne4 ,! cont\r ( ?is 0 v slightly alt]$ 9 ! reign ( ,george ,i41 ! sides be+ m curv$ at ! front & ! back1 & ! old %ape ( ! circul> f>?+ale 0 pref]r$ ) ! tra9less g[n4 #agif is ! date giv5 :5 hoops 7 disc>d$ except at ,c\rt1 & ! real cr9ol9e made its appe>ance 9 #ahed1 ! previ\s ye> hav+ witness$ ! cr9ol9e petticoat z an ord9>y adjunct to dress4 ,! ,empress ,eugnie pron\nc$ 9 fav\r ( ! cr9ol9e1 & x became ! mode1 rema9+ s = _m ye>s1 :ile ^? few :o refus$ to give x patronage gave ho/ages to fa%ion 9 ! horsehair-/iff5$ petticoat4 ,! cr9ol9e 9 ^? days 0 ( ! skeleton k9d & =m$ ( hoops ( /eel held toge!r by p]p5dicul> tapes1 b x soon develop$ into a petticoat ( calico ) ! /eels runn+ ?r\gh x at int]vals f hem to wai/4 ,x is among/ ! fa%ions ov] :i* ev5 ! mo/ pessimi/ic may hopefully write ,i*abod4 ,,*apt] ,,xviii ,,( ,,c]emonial ,,& ,,bridal ,,dress ,! rules & regulations ( c]emonial dress are z exact+1 if n z unalt]able1 z ev] 7 ^? ( ! ,m$es & ,p]sians4 ,k+s & ,emp]ors punctili\sly obs]ve ! etiquette :i* frames !m1 s t e royal meet+ or p>t+ or fe/ivity is att5d$ 9 a c>efully prescrib$ g>b1 & ! ,ma/] ( ! ,royal ,w>drobe mu/ be deeply & wisely v]s$ 9 ! hi/ory ( ! nations1 & wor?y to take a diploma 9 ! fir/ division ( ! ,c\rt ( ,co/ume4 ,8 ,maje/y ! ,k+ has a lynx eye2 no item escapes 8 notice2 & he gives z mu* att5tion to ! details ( ev]yday g>b z to ^? ( clo!s = m]ry or solemn occasion4 ,unlike ! ,que51 he rules ! fa%ions1 & 8 we>+ ( a l[ hat or a high hat1 9 :ite or 9 br[n1 a twe$ suit or a frock-coat1 :ite boots or black ones1 decides su* "q = ! multitude :5 att5d+ inaugurations1 race meet+s1 & o!r social functions1 & ! ,royal decisions are h]ald$ =? 9 ! press = public guidance4 ,at ! rec5t coronation !re 0 mu* discussion ( ! =m & %ape ( ! robes = ! ladies1 & ! ,k+1 anxi\s to conciliate ! /ricte/ etiquette ( ye/]day ) a nice s5se ( ! fa%ionable exig5cies ( to-day1 conc]n$ himself ) ! %ape ( ! bodice & trimm+ ( ! tra94 ,! results we may all rememb]1 ! deeply crimson velvet1 ! bord]s ( m9iv]1 & ! lic5se ( ! jewell$ /oma*] & ! lace "u-skirt2 :ile ! rank :i* is b ! gu9ea's /amp f\nd expression 9 ! epaulette1 ! coronet1 & ! b>s ( fur4 ,9 tru?1 ! coronation robe1 ev5 "u its improv$ conditions1 _c consci5ti\sly be describ$ z becom+ or com=table4 ,! only virtue t ,i c see 9 x is its pond]\s simplicity1 ! details ( :i* ,i w give--= ! b5efit ( a future g5]ation--9 ! pomp\s language ( ! (ficial proclamation4 ,! edict issu$ in=m$ ^? imm$iately conc]n$ t ! robe or mantle ( ! ,pe]s be ( crimson velvet edg$ ) m9iv]1 ! cape furr$ ) m9iv] pure1 & p[d]$ ) b>s or r[s ( erm9e accord+ to _! degree1 viz4-- ,b>ons4 ,two r[s4 ,visc\nts4 ,two r[s & a half4 ,e>ls4 ,?ree r[s4 ,m>quesses4 ,?ree r[s & a half4 ,dukes4 ,f\r r[s4 ,! said mantles or robes to be worn ov] ! full ,c\rt dress1 uni=ms1 or regim5tals4 ,_! coronets to be ( silv]-gilt1 ! caps ( crimson velvet turn$ up ) erm9e1 ) a gold tassel on ! top1 & no jewels or preci\s /ones are to be set or us$ 9 ! coronets1 or c\nt]feit pe>ls in/ead ( silv] balls4 ,! coronet ( a ,b>on to h on ! circle or rim six silv] balls at equal di/ances4 ,! coronet ( a ,visc\nt to h on ! circle sixte5 silv] balls4 ,! coronet ( an ,e>l to h on ! circle eight silv] balls rais$ ^u po9ts1 ) gold /rawb]ry leaves betwe5 ! po9ts4 ,! coronet ( a ,m>quis to h on ! circle f\r gold /rawb]ry leaves & f\r silv] leaves alt]nately1 ! latt] a little rais$ or po9t$ above ! rim4 ,! coronet ( a ,duke to h on ! circle eight gold /rawb]ry leaves4 ,simil> in/ructions 7 =w>d$ to ,pe]esses1 :o 7 in=m$ t _! coronets 7 to be id5tical 9 all respects ) ^? worn by _! husb&s4 ,) reg>d to ! rema9+ items ( _! toilet1 ! foll[+ is an extract f ! ,e>l ,m>%al's proclamation3-- ,^! are to give notice to all ,pe]esses :o att5d at ! ,coronation ( _! ,maje/ies t ! robes or mantles app]ta9+ to _! respective ranks are to be worn ov] full ,c\rt dress4 ,t ! robe or mantle ( a ,b>oness be ( crimson velvet1 ! cape :]e( to be furr$ ) m9iv] pure & p[d]$ ) two b>s or r[s ( erm9e 7i4e4 n>r[ pieces ( black fur71 ! said mantle to be edg$ r\nd ) m9iv] pure two in*es 9 bread?1 & ! tra9 to be ?ree feet on ! gr\nd4 ,t ! robe or mantle ( a ,visc\ntess be l t ( a ,b>oness1 only ! cape p[d]$ ) two r[s & a half ( erm9e1 ! edg+ ( ! mantle two in*es z be=e1 & ! tra9 a y>d & a qu>t]4 ,t ! robe or mantle ( a ,c\ntess be z be=e1 only ! cape p[d]$ ) ?ree r[s ( erm9e1 ! edg+ ?ree in*es 9 bread?1 & ! tra9 a y>d & a half4 ,t ! robe or mantle ( a ,m>*ioness be z be=e1 only ! cape p[d]$ ) ?ree r[s & a half ( erm9e1 ! edg+ f\r in*es 9 bread?1 ! tra9 a y>d & ?ree-qu>t]s4 ,t ! robe or mantle ( a ,du*ess be ! same z be=e1 only ! cape p[d]$ ) f\r r[s ( erm9e1 ! edg+ f\r in*es & a half 9 bread?1 ! tra9 f\r y>ds4 ,a note is add$ /ill fur!r assi/+ ! exact int]pretation ( ! ,e>l ,m>%al's in/ructions3 ,x is und]/ood t ! above ord]s ref] to all ,engli%1 ,scot*1 & ,iri% ,pe]s 7except ,pe]s :o are m9ors1 & ,iri% ,pe]s :o h seats 9 ! ,h\se ( ,commons74 ,pe]esses 9 _! own "r1 ! wid[s ( ,pe]s1 & ! wives ( liv+ ,pe]s1 includ+ ! wives ( ,iri% ,pe]s :o h seats 9 ! ,h\se ( ,commons4 ,) respect to su* ,pe]esses z h rem>ri$ "u ! rank ( ! ,pe]age1 !y1 accord+ to =m] prec$5t1 are n consid]$ z entitl$ to su* summons4 7,a summons to att5d ! ,coronation47 ,z to wid[s ( ,pe]s :o h rem>ri$ ) a ,pe] ( l[] degree1 _! prec$5ce is ) t ( _! late husb&4 ,! dress regulations relat+ to o!rs ?an ,pe]s & ,pe]esses rul$ t g5tlem5 %\ld appe> 9 full uni=m or full ,c\rt dress2 :ile ladies 7 comm&$ to we> ,c\rt dress )\t tra9s1 & m\rn+ 0 /rictly prohibit$4 ,knights ,gr& ,cross & ,knights ,gr& ,comm&]s 7 in/ruct$ to pres5t !mselves 9 ! mantles & coll>s p]ta9+ to _! v>i\s ord]s4 ,su* y\?s z 7 =tunate en\gh to receive invitations to att5d1 7 in/ruct$ to d s 9 a black velvet co/ume1 knick]bock]s1 black silk /ock+s1 %oes ) /eel buckles1 & a ,gl5g>ry cap ( black velvet4 ,! two dom9ant figures 9 ! great pageant bore ^u !m a burd5 ( cr[ns1 & cloaks1 & swords1 & tra9s1 palls1 sceptres1 & r+s & rods1 mantles & caps & robes1 ^: heavy c>es repres5t$ b lightly ,royal responsibility4 ,b ! mo/ int]e/+ ( all ! g>bs ( conv5tion1 because ! mo/ supremely p]sonal1 is ! bridal co/ume1 d$icat$ prim>ily to :ite1 & p]mitt$ to enjoy ! di/9ctions ( silv] or lace decoration4 ,"u ord9>y conditions ! wid[ :o rem>ries1 ev5 z ! "m ( a bride1 f9ds h]self tempt$ to ! pa?s ( grey1 & only occasionally lapses into ! m triumphant glories ( violet & pale blue & cream col\r2 & ) ! pres5t fa%ion ( en%r\d+ ! hat or toque ) a p5d5t veil1 %e may confid5tly %>e ! grace ( drap]y ) ! virg9 bride4 ,n[ & aga9 dur+ ! pa/ & ! pres5t c5turies brides h ?\ght fit to indulge _! :ite sat9 simplicity ) embroid]y outl9$ ) gold ?reads1 & "s h be5 suffici5tly audaci\s to introduce a yell[-petall$ daisy2 & ! revival ( an old cu/om is ! sub/itution ( ! pray]-book = ! b\quet4 ,b ^! are trivialities :i* obta9 b scant att5tion1 n ev5 rea*+ ! importance ( a n9e-days' wond]4 ,on ! :ole1 ! bride's dress 9 ! civilis$ p>ts ( ,europe mu/ be writt5 d[n z pre-em95tly cons]vative & spl5didly null1 & x is int]e/+ to turn f its monotony to a consid]ation ( ! ord9>y bridal co/ume 9 gra4 ,?is is black1 & r\nd ! =ehead ( ! bride is b\nd a fillet ( p5d5t jewels 9 ! %ape ( te>s4 ,&1 by ! way1 ,i f9d t an embroid]$ patt]n ( te>s 0 select$ to ornam5t a wid['s grey cloak 9 ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,assur$ly ?is is a poetic notion1 b its realisation might prove a little emb>rass+1 if ! grief = ! dep>t$ subsid$ be=e ! g>m5t 0 worn out4 ,!re w\ld be no?+ = x1 ,i suppose1 b to d$icate x to private s]vice z a h\se-g[n1 or to give x ! obscurity :i* a petticoat enjoys4 ,:5 ! sorr[ dw9dl$ to ext9ction1 ! remnants ( ! g>m5t might well be be/[$ on "s v poor wid[ ^: woe1 mitigat$ or n1 w\ld inevitably rejoice at ! *ance ( su* elegant proclamation4 ,b to return to my bride ( gra1 :o ent]s ^u h] duties ) mu* gravity & solemnity1 go+ to ! alt> 9 a %ort black skirt1 lac$ bodice1 & hood$ cloak1 h] sole ornam5t ! nuptial b&1 :i* is b\nd r\nd h] =ehead & ti$ ) ribbon at ! back1 :ile 9 h] h&s %e c>ries h] ros>y & h] veil4 ,9 ,switz]l& black is all[$ on fe/ival g>b1 & on ,sundays ! wom5 we> black 9 ! morn+s & *ange to col\rs 9 ! ev5+4 ,9 ! ,b]ne ,canton ! wom5 usually display a black lace cap1 %ap$ l a fan & ti$ "u ! *91 accompany+ ?is ) long gre5 gloves2 & 9 ev]yday life _! co/ume comprises a blue or black petticoat rea*+ to ! ankles1 scollop$ at ! bord] ) r$ or :ite1 complet$ ) a :ite *emisette high to ! ?roat1 ) full %ort sleeves reveal$ b5ea? a %ort sleeveless jacket4 ,on _! heads are /raw hats1 & on _! legs & feet r$ /ock+s ) black clocks & heel-less %oes1 & _! hair is worn hang+ d[n 9 two long plaits4 ,co/ume has ?r\gh ! ages be5 all[$ to signify ! m>ri$ or unm>ri$ /ate ( its we>]4 ,9 ,rome ! purple-bord]$ toga & ! segm5tum--conc]n+ :i* !re has be5 "s discussion1 s9ce x has be5 sep>ately describ$ z a necklace1 a fr+e1 & an embroid]$ ribbon--w\ld grace ! matron4 ,! ,roman bride wore a r$ veil or flam5 on h] w$d+-day2 & 9 ,greece ! m>ri$ woman p>t$ h] hair 9 front 9 a diff]5t fa%ion f t ( ! maids2 & to ?is day 9 "s p>ts ( ! ,grecian ,isl&s brides we> ! flame-col\r$ veil1 & foll[ ! cu/om ( putt+ a pat* ( gold-leaf on ! face4 ,! mod]n bride ( ,corfu illu/rat$ at page #abf is we>+ a skirt ( purple & an apron ( blue1 & a %ort blue corselet buckl$ ) gold2 h] small r$ velvet coat is trac$ ) gold1 & gold ornam5ts hang r\nd h] neck & hold ! :ite *emisette across ! bu/4 ,ribbons entw9e h] hair ) g>l&s ( fl[]s1 & ov] ^! a s(t :ite veil hangs to ! wai/1 ribbons aga9 flutt]+ _! elegance f wai/ to hem4 ,9 v>i\s p>ts ( ,italy ! peasants h ornam5ts h&$ d[n f g5]ation to g5]ation1 & z a pres5t to ea* succe$+ bride an extra *a9 or jewel is add$1 =m+ a s5tim5tal record ( l9eage :i* only ! mo/ deva/at+ pov]ty induces ! possessor to "p )4 ,! practice ( weav+ a w$d+-veil is an old "o1 dat+ f ! times ( anci5t ,greece4 ,a bride ( ,attica is immortalis$ 9 a long fl[+ robe ( cl++ rose col\r1 ) a girdle ( gold cord knott$ & tassell$4 ,h] hair is closely curl$ r\nd ! nape ( h] neck1 & drawn up at ! back into a wide me%$ net1 ! front b&$ ) a gold5 fillet engrav$ ) a ,grecian key patt]n1 :5ce floats a transp>5t :ite veil to ! gr\nd4 ,! donn+ ( a bridal cr[n is a fa%ion :i* traces its orig9 to ! f> ,nor?1 & 9 ,sc&9avia x is ! mo/ significant feature ( ! bridal attire1 ea* p>i% be+ possess$ ( its special cr[n1 ! prop]ty ( ! *ur*1 ! pa/or ( :i* sanctions ! use ( ! cr[n only :5 ! bride is ( irreproa*able "*4 ,su* a cu/om %\ld act z a p[]ful inc5tive to virtue1 s9ce to /& be=e ! alt> uncr[n$ mu/ be conclusive evid5ce ( unwor?9ess4 ,( copp]-gilt1 ! bridal cr[n diff]s slightly accord+ to ! di/rict4 ,9 ! diocese ( ,dron!im x is r\nd 9 %ape1 tap]+ up to spire-l po9ts1 ! rim encircl$ ) a d\ble g>l& ( fl[]s emblematic ( innoc5ce1 :ile f b5ea? x at ei!r side dangle /ream]s ( gaily col\r$ ribbon & black lace ov] luxuriant tresses1 real or false1 ei!r ( hair or /raw4 ,! dress consi/s ( a close-fitt+ bodice ) long tight sleeves1 & a pla9 skirt to ! ankles1 ( ! same d>k mat]ial1 ! %ort n>r[ apron be+ ( :ite musl94 ,! corsage is almo/ hidd5 b5ea? a pel]9e made ( wool cov]$ ) :ite lace1 edg$ ) gre5 ribbon1 & deck$ across ! *e/ ) a triangul> piece ( sc>let clo?1 :i* =ms ! re/+-place = lavi% adornm5t ) gold & silv] ornam5ts connect$ by *a9s2 ! n>r[ belt is ( sc>let clo?1 & falls 9 a s+le end d[n ! left side ( ! front4 ,! h&s are held 9 a little drum-%ap$ muff ( r$ clo?1 bord]$ by l9es ( gre5 silk & lace & fur!r decorat$ ) broo*es2 & on ! feet are d>k /ock+s & black lea!r %oes ) impos+ silv] buckles4 ,! co/umes & cu/oms ( ,sw$5 & ,norway h always borne a c]ta9 family resemblance2 9 bo? c\ntries ! cr[n plays a prom95t "p at w$d+s1 occasionally assum+ proportions m fanta/ic ?an conv5i5t4 ,9 ,h>dang] ! cr[n is a v gorge\s affair1 l>ge & wide at ! top1 set ) rubies & em]alds & quiv]+ ) p5d5t ornam5ts2 & b5ea? x ! hair is divid$ to hang d[n loosely f a %[] ( bright ribbons4 ,! sc>let skirt is trimm$ ) black velvet1 & ! :ite apron has a b& ( drawn ?read-"w at ! hem1 ! bodice reveal+ a pla/ron made ( a v>iety ( col\r$ clo?s1 ) r$ = ! pr$om9ant hue1 cov]$ ) gold & silv] jewell]y ( ! filigree description4 ,tradition ord]s t ! bride %all reta9 h] f9]y intact = an entire week1 dur+ :i* p]iod ! w$d+ fe/ivities are kept up ) unflagg+ en?usiasm1 & on ! eigh? day %e gives ! signal = ! m]rymak+ to cease by rais+ h] h& to press a secret spr+1 :5 ! heavy cr[n falls f h] head & leaves h] free to jo9 9 ! la/ joy\s dance ) h] husb&4 ,possibly ! annals ( co/ume conta9 no m extravagant w$d+-dress ?an t peculi> to ! ,du*y ( ,saxe-,alt5burg4 ,! bridal cr[n is c]ta9ly unique4 ,x is made ( little quadrangul> pieces ( metal :i* display a rais$ design & are m\nt$ ^u a high cyl9drical %ape ( pa/ebo>d encircl$ by a fr+e ( gilt leaves atta*$ to silv] buttons4 ,^! buttons head a b& ( r$ velvet ribbon ti$ 9 a huge b[ beh9d1 :]e a curv$ h&le ( twi/$ gre5 velvet ext5ds itself ) wide ends ( gre5 velvet ribbon t conceal ! e>s & are ti$ 9 an enorm\s b[ "u ! *9 above a /iff gigantic b[ ( black silk4 ,! tight %ort skirt is ( d>k wool ) a scollop$ bord] ( r$ & yell[1 & a n>r[ pleat$ apron is 9 a dull %ade ( tang]9e4 ,ab\t ! wai/ is a broad sa% ( black silk ti$ 9 a mon/] b[ 9 ! front1 & ! tight bodice introduces ! multi-col\r$ ve/4 ,little c be se5 ( ! bride or h] g[n beyond ! ,brobd+nagian b[s1 & h] co/ume might be ?\ght to embody ! axiom--x is well to h m ?an "o b[ to y\r /r+4 ,! peasantry ( ! ,swiss canton ( ,frib\rg hold rev]5tly to ance/ral tradition1 we>+ ! dress ( _! gr&p>5ts 9 tok5 ( _! resolve to rema9 fai?ful to anci5t cu/om4 ,! bride plaits h] hair 9 a s+le plait "u an erection l ! huss>'s cap1 made 9 pale blue trimm$ ) n>r[ l9es ( rose silk ru*+1 & b&$ across ! =ehead ) black velvet4 ,h] /ock+s1 %ort skirt1 & bodice are ( sc>let1 ! sleeves t]m9at+ ) velvet cuffs1 & h] apron is ( black or ( silk ( "s sombre %ade4 ,! indisp5sable pla/ron-ve/ is ( p9k edg$ ) silv] lace & load$ ) silv] buttons1 & ! flat circul> ruffle is ( pale blue edg$ ) silv] braid2 & bel[ x hangs a f9e silv] *a9 support+ a l>ge m$allion4 ,my/ic 9 its simple gr&eur is ! dress ( an ,arm5ian bride1 consi/+ ( a long trail+ g[n ( ?ick silk1 ri*ly int]wov5 ) gold1 held at ! wai/ by a gold5 girdle1 & op5+ d[n ! front to %[ a petticoat ( a contra/+ col\r4 ,on ! head is a wrea? ( :ite fl[]s1 ov]spread by a veil ( mi/y :ite1 :i* falls to ! gr\nd above a %[] ( glitt]+ gold /ream]s4 ,! e>ly fa%ions ( ,egypt 9 gala times1 al?\gh suffici5tly decorative 9 _! col\r & drap]y1 7 always spoilt by ! hide\s head-dress ( black wool or hair ti$ ) wool & plait$1 or set out aggressively at ei!r side l a furze bu% 9 m\rn+4 ,on /ate occasions ! ,egyptian woman wore a dress ) full sleeves ( silk *eck$ 9 crimson & yell[4 ,! hem 0 trimm$ ) a gold fr+e1 & r\nd ! wai/ 0 a wide girdle1 & on ! feet lea!r %oes embroid]$ 9 gold4 ,! black plaits z well z ! head 7 adorn$ ) gold braid encru/$ ) preci\s /ones2 a blue lotus fl[] fell ov] ! =ehead1 a numb] ( gold bodk9s 7 plac$ above ! fillet1 & l>ge gold hoops hung f ! e>s4 ,bracelets & necklets =m$ ( r[s ( enamell$ discs1 pe>ls1 /r+s ( liz>ds & beetles ( /amp$ gold1 all s]v$ at fea/s to adorn ! ,egyptian beauty1 ^: fav\rite bangle 0 9 ! =m ( a snake1 & ^: f+]s 7 /iff ) r+s4 ,an old ,indian fe/ival dress is emblazon$ ) beads & silks 9 gay col\rs1 & be>s long squ>e lappets hang+ f a jewell$ headpiece4 ,! sombre tunic is enri*$ ) jewels at ! neck & wai/4 ,rem>kable specim5s ( old ,indian ta/e & +5uity are ! tunics made ( lea!r ?ickly encru/$ ) beads ( diff]5t col\rs 9 geometrical patt]n1 su* tunics be+ fr+$ ) lea!r & complet$ by a mu* fea!r$ head-dress4 ,byron's v]se gives a haunt+ picture ( ,moori% magnific5ce1 :5 he describes ,haide 9 h] joy3 ,ar\nd1 z ,pr9cess ( h] fa!r's l&1 ,a l gold b> above h] in/ep roll$ ,ann\nc$ h] rank2 twelve r+s 7 on h] h&2 ,h] hair 0 />r'd ) gems2 h] veil's f9e fold ,bel[ h] brea/ 0 fa/5$ ) a b& ,( lavi% pe>ls1 ^: wor? c\ld sc>ce be told2 ,h] orange silk full ,turki% tr\s]s furl'd ,ab\t ! prettie/ ankle 9 ! _w4 ,9 ,bokh>a ! bride we>s a rose-col\r$ veil on h] w$d+-day2 & "h1 /rangely en\gh1 deep blue is ! di/9ctive m\rn+ col\r4 ,! co/ume ( m>ri$ wom5 9 ,afghani/an mu/ be grant$ mu* admiration3 !y we> a %irt ) wide sleeves embroid]$ ) fl[]s 9 col\r$ silks1 col\r$ tr\s]s1 & a small cap embroid]$ 9 gold ?reads1 & ov] ?is1 at ! approa* ( a /rang]1 !y ?r[ a l>ge %eet4 ,b5ea? ! cap ! hair is divid$ into two plaits on ei!r side & fa/5$ at ! back4 ,*a9s1 nose & e> r+s are select$ at discretion2 & ! unm>ri$ wom5 are kn[n by _! :ite tr\s]s & loosely fl[+ hair4 ,return+ to ,we/]n climes1 ,i note t ,isabella1 ,que5 ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 ( ,engl&1 includ$ 9 h] tr\sseau a gorge\s & unique robe & mantle ( r$ gra9$ velvet1 embroid]$ ) metal birds ( goldsmi?'s "w p]*$ ^u bran*es ( pe>ls & gre5 preci\s /ones4 ,obvi\sly economy 0 no object1 & h] ,maje/y _h det]m9$ to d ! ?+ h&somely4 ,9 ! sixte5? c5tury ,engli% matrons wore a coif or close bonnet1 & ! unm>ri$ wom5 braid$ _! hair ) knots ( ribbon4 ,!re is a curi\s record 9 ! hi/ory ( ,*e/] 9 ,h5ry ,,viii4's "t1 :i* includes an ord] to di/+ui% ! head-dress ( ! m>ri$ wom5 f unm>ri$1 no unm>ri$ woman to we> :ite or o!r col\r$ caps2 & no woman to we> any hat1 unless %e rides or goes abroad into ! c\ntry 7except sick or ag$ p]sons71 on pa9 ( #cs4 #d;d4 ,su* an ord] is almo/ z unreasonable z ungrammatical1 yet !re is com=t to be glean$ f ! fact t ! tax on disob$i5ce 0 b #cs4 #d;d4 ,9 ! sixte5? c5tury 9 ,scotl& ! hair ( an unm>ri$ girl 0 b\nd by a snood or simple fillet1 a lock ( hair hang+ on ea* side ( ! face & ti$ ) a ribbon2 b1 :5 m>ri$1 wom5 cov]$ ! hair ) a fold ( l95 fa/5$ "u ! *9 & fall+ 9 po9ts on ! %\ld]s4 ,at ! m>riage ( ,pr9cess ,elizabe?1 daught] ( ,james ,i41 9 #afac1 :5 ! fa%ion ( ! "t 0 ! /iff /oma*]1 f>?+ale & ruff1 ! bride wore a cr[n set ) diamonds1 a dress ( silv] /uff embroid]$ ) silv]1 pe>ls & preci\s /ones1 ! tra9 s long t x 0 borne by twelve or fifte5 fair "y ladies1 ! hair fl[+ freely d[n z l[ z ! knee1 9 ! /yle t virg9s us$ to we> _! hair at _! w$d+s4 ,aft] d9n] ! ,pr9cess put on a dress embroid]$ ) gold1 & did up h] hair4 ,?is description ( a ,v5etian w$d+ 9 ! eighte5? c5tury 0 by ,lady ,mill]3--,all ! ladies1 except ! bride1 7 dress$ 9 _! black g[ns ) l>ge hoops2 ! g[ns 7 /raight-bodi$ ) v long tra9s1 ! tra9s tuck$ up on "o side ( ! hoop ) a prodigi\s l>ge tassel ( diamonds4 ,_! sleeves 7 cov]$ up to _! %\ld]s ) falls ( ! f9e/ ,brussels lace1 a drawn tuck] ( ! same r\nd ! bosom1 adorn$ ) r[s ( ! f9e/ pe>ls1 ea* ! size ( a gooseb]ry1 till ! r[s desc5d$ bel[ ! top ( ! /oma*]2 !n two r[s ( pe>ls1 :i* came f ! back ( ! neck1 7 caught up at ! left side ( ! /oma*]1 & f9i%$ 9 two f9e tassels4 ,_! heads 7 dress$ prodigi\sly high1 9 a va/ numb] ( buckles & two long drop curls 9 ! neck4 ,a great numb] ( diamond p9s & /r+s ( pe>ls adorn$ _! heads1 ) l>ge sultanas1 or fea!rs1 on "o side1 & magnific5t diamond e>-r+s4 ,! bride 0 dress$ 9 clo? ( silv] made 9 ! same fa%ion1 & decorat$ 9 ! same mann]1 b h] br[ 0 kept q b>e1 & %e _h a f9e diamond necklace & an enorm\s b\quet4 ,lady ,mill] des]v$ to h liv$ 9 times :5 ! conduct ( ! fa%ion pap] 0 among/ ! privileges ( ! high nobility4 ,,*apt] ,,xix ,,( ,,danc+ ,,dresses1 ,,european ,,& ,,ori5tal1 ,,anci5t ,,& ,,mod]n ,sympa?y betwe5 ,*ur* & ,/age is ( no novel date4 ,! relation%ip betwe5 ! two has be5 close & intimate s9ce ! days :5 no religi\s fe/ival 0 complete )\t its *orus ( danc]s1 & ! (ficiat+ prie/s took "p 9 ! tripp+ until ! introduction1 9 ! ,middle ,ages1 ( su* pr(anities z ! ,dance ( ,dea? & ! ,dance ( ! ,angels1 common 9 ,italy1 ,spa91 & ,france1 caus$ ! practice to fall into disrepute4 ,possibly ! pres5t "t sees ! ,t]psi*orean art at its l[e/ ebb4 ,nev]!less1 a promis+ sign ( reviv+ int]e/ is t mod]n sci5ti/s1 foll[+ ! example ( ! old ,greek philosoph]s1 are em]g+ z *ampions ( ! lightsome measure4 ,/ill1 x is d\btful :e!r x w ev] aga9 atta9 ! respect x rea*$ 9 anci5t ,greece2 & x 7 m]e optimism to hope t we may yet witness ,memb]s ( ,p>liam5t danc+ to _! seats 9 ! ,h\se ( ,commons1 our judges pir\ett+ solemnly t[>ds ! b5*1 & our admirals & g5]als inculcat+ a _s ( patriotism by dances devis$ to inspire h]oic s5tim5ts & an exalt$ idea ( milit>y duty4 ,! ballet1 an inv5tion ( ! prie/hood ( ,egypt1 0 inaugurat$ 9 connection ) c]ta9 sacr$ fe/ivals1 notably ^? d$icat$ to ! bull ,apis1 & x =m$ an important feature ( ! initiatory rites into ! my/]ies ( ,isis4 ,x 0 my/ic r ?an s5su\s1 & ! aim ( its compos] 0 to sugge/ ! hidd5 ?+s ( ! cult1 ! c\rse ( ! heav5ly bodies1 & ! h>mony ( ! univ]se4 ,! a/ronomical dance 0 f> f be+ ! only "o practis$4 ,at ,memphis & ,!bes ! prie/s danc$ r\nd ! bull ,apis2 ! figures 9 turn depict+ ! miracul\s bir? ( ! god1 ! incid5ts ( 8 *ildhood1 & 8 union ) ,isis4 ,f9ally1 on ! occasion ( 8 dea?1 8 obsequies 7 celebrat$ ) dances ( appropriate solemnity4 ,b1 alas6 ^! cap]s 7 n conc]n$ ) clo!s1 = ! p]=m]s 7 unhamp]$ by s>torial consid]ations1 & ! toilet ( a female danc] consi/$ ( a n>r[ metal girdle ab\t ! hips1 ! deep circul> coll> peculi> to ! race1 & a tamb\r9e4 ,occasionally ^! items 7 supplem5t$ by a transp>5t robe ( ! f9e/ :ite musl91 & ! arrangem5t ( ! hair1 or wig1 0 always elaborate4 ,fram+ ! face1 x re/$ on ei!r %\ld] 9 a d5se mass ( plaits1 ! back hang+ 9 a /raight l9e ( ?ick braids j bel[ ! nape ( ! neck1 :ile a gleam+ metal fillet fla%$ l[ on ! =ehead4 ,male danc]s cont5t$ !mselves ) s]ri$ skirts1 9 :i* !y twirl$ ) ext5d$ arms1 mu* aft] ! mann] ( d]vi%es4 ,illu/ration3 ,,an ,,egyptian ,,danc]4 ,desc5dants ( ^! anci5t ball]9as are to be f\nd 9 ,egypt to-day 9 ! p]sons ( ! ,ghawazees4 ,9 common ) mo/ ,ori5tal danc]s1 ! ,ghawazee takes up h] position on a brightly col\r$ c>pet4 ,%e is dress$ 9 a sleeveless corselet1 brilliantly enamell$ aft] ! /yle ( an ,egyptian sword-%ea?1 h] only o!r article ( attire be+ a simple musl9 *emise vividly spott$ & />-bespangl$1 :ile on h] head a k]*ief ( clo? ( gold is drap$ 9 qua9t mann]4 ,h] b>e feet nev] move1 ! body alone vibrat+ to ! %rill music ( flute & cymbals4 ,! play ( ! long supple arms is wond]ful z !y 9 turn c>ess & pursue an invisible be+ :o et]nally eludes _! passionate embrace4 ,to rev]t to ! days :5 ! ,pyramids 7 ! newe/ ?+ 9 ar*itecture1 traces ( ! sacr$ dance ( ,apis are f\nd 9 ,biblical hi/ory :]e ! prophets ( ,israel inaugurat$ ! habit ( danc+ r\nd ! gold5 calf2 b un=tunately ! co/ume is omitt$ f ! records1 & ?\gh ,i "k ,miriam l$ a procession1 danc+ & play+ on ! tamb\r9e1 & ,david danc$ be=e ! ,ark1 & ,jeph?ah's daught] danc$ to h] doom1 _! dress is enwrop 9 my/]y2 & ,i c b hope x 0 adequate4 ,! art ( danc+ 0 glorifi$ into popul>ity 9 ,greece1 :]e x 0 held 9 high v5]ation & freely indulg$ 9 by all memb]s ( ! community1 ^u :om ! ex]cise 0 r5d]$ incumb5t up to ! age ( ?irty4 ,h[ salut>y a simil> rule w\ld be1 if en=c$ 9 ,engl& to-day6 ,!re w\ld be no lack ( danc+ m5 at balls1 ! task ( ! *ap]one w\ld be light5$1 & ! burd5 ( anxiety press+ ^u ! mu*-h>ass$ ho/ess r$uc$ to a fea!r-weight4 ,! dances ( ! old ,hell5es 7 divid$ into ?ree classes--! sacr$1 ! milit>y1 & ! pr(ane2 & dress 0 end[$ ) a fe/ive air by ! fl[]s & g>l&s ( leaves worn on ! head4 ,a *orus ( female danc]s1 attir$ 9 :ite1 0 a feature at fun]als2 :ile1 clad 9 full arm\r & equipp$ z ?\gh = ! field ( battle1 m5 practis$ ! milit>y dances ) vig\r & en?usiasm4 ,9 anci5t ,rome ! art ( danc+1 z le>n$ f ! ,greeks1 deg5]at$ into an excuse = lic5ti\sness1 & weal?y patricians includ$ female danc]s among _! slaves4 ,! dress ( ^! danc]s 0 ( transp>5t tissue held by jewell$ girdles1 & fl[]s 7 9 _! hair & fell 9 a wrea? r\nd _! necks4 ,9 ,india !re are two classes ( danc]s--^? consecrat$ to ! s]vice ( ! pagodas1 & ^? kn[n z ,naut* girls1 or to give !m _! ,portuguese title1 ,bayadeses4 ,! =m] are t]m$ ,devadasi1 & are to be f\nd 9 numb]s 9 ! sacr$ city ( ,b5>es4 ,! dress ( ! ,naut* girl is brightly col\r$1 ( ri* mat]ial brilliantly decorat$ ) embroid]y & preci\s /ones4 ,x comprises tight embroid]$ tr\s]s to ! ankles1 pla9ly visible ?r\gh a %ort skirt ( transp>5t texture held at ! wai/ by a girdle f :i* hangs a n>r[ :ite musl9 apron1 pleat$ & bord]$ ) gold4 ,! little *uli1 a dim9utive jacket1 is %ort-sleev$ & cut l[ at ! ?roat1 & leaves ! c5tre ( ! body b>e b = a diaphan\s sc>f :i* floats f ! left %\ld]1 tw9es r\nd ! figure1 & escapes to flutt] 9 a loose end beh9d4 ,gli/5+ ) oil1 ! black hair is p>t$ & hangs d[n ! back 9 a long plait1 weight$ ) a clu/] ( gold tassels4 ,! t9y skull-cap is gaily embroid]$1 & ! sc5t$ petals ( fl[]s quiv] amid ! d>k tresses4 ,bracelets load ! arms & legs1 r+s sc9tillate 9 ! e>s & on ! f+]s & toes1 *a9s dangle f ! neck1 & an enorm\s r+ dep5ds f ! left no/ril4 ,dur+ c5turies ! dances ( ! ,devadasi & ,naut* girls h alt]$ little1 if at all1 & x w\ld be amus+ to contra/ _! me?ods ) ! poly*romatic lightsome mod]nity ( ,loie ,full]1 ! abrupt conclusions ( ! high-kick]1 & ! prim precisions ( ! p9k-%od pir\ett] ( ! pantomime4 ,w ! ,"l ,*amb]la9 p]mit8 ,l ! ,daimios & ,sam\rai1 ! sacr$ ,gei%a is rapidly becom+ a memory only 9 ! ,japan ( to-day4 ,nev]!less1 ! cu/om ( keep+ danc+ girls 9 ! temples /ill survives 9 c]ta9 prov9ces4 ,qua9t because ( _! solemnity1 ! religi\s dances are execut$ by a numb] ( dim9utive maid5s "u ?irte5 ye>s ( age4 ,rang$ on a plat=m1 ^! odd little ve/als are g>b$ 9 a mann] :i* adds consid]ably to ! biz>re effect ( ! sc5e4 ,ea* we>s twelve kimonos1 "o on top ( ! o!r1 alt]nately :ite & r$1 ! bord]s %[+ 9 regul> r[s at ! ?roat1 & ov] ^! is a ,c\rt mantle sumptu\sly embroid]$ 9 gold & col\r$ silks1 ! back %ap$ to sugge/ a *asuble4 ,divid$ d[n ! c5tre 9 front1 ! hair hangs 9 a plait beh9d1 decorat$ ) circles cut out ( gold pap] drawn toge!r to =m two big r+s1 :ile at ! temples appe> clu/]s ( r$ camellias & wi/>ia & metal ornam5ts4 ,! face is :it5$ & ! lips are /a9$ v]milion1 & ! %av$ eyebr[s replac$ by %ort1 slant+ l9es ( black pa9t1 :i* l5d a t\* at once piquant & grotesque4 ,! ,gei%a ( ! h\se is a va/ly diff]5t p]son4 ,h] sole mission 9 life is to amuse & ent]ta94 ,to ?is end %e dons a gaily-embroid]$ kimono & decorates h] black hair ) fans1 fl[]s1 & o!r ornam5ts4 ,h] prettie/ p]=mance is ! fan dance1 to ! light /ra9 ( a /r+$ in/rum5t play$ by a female musician4 ,flutt]+ a fan 9 h] "r h&1 ) h] left %e lib]ates a pap] butt]fly1 !n1 d>t+ hi!r & ?i!r ) m>vell\s grace & dext]ity1 %e pursues x z x floats t[>ds a fl[]1 skims a petal & alights on ! brim ( a cup1 to escape afre% & describe mo?-l circles ab\t ! flame ( a c&le1 sudd5ly disappe>+ 9 a quick fla% ( fire4 ,9 ,mohamm$an c\ntries danc+ is d5\nc$ z a s94 ,m5 nev] indulge 9 x1 ei!r = pr(it or pa/ime1 :ile su* wom5 z make x _! pr(ession are reg>d$ z disreputable memb]s ( ! community4 ,despite ! ban plac$ ^u !m1 ,p]sian danc]s are wond]fully skilful1 & capable ( p]=m+ prodigies 9 _! p>ticul> l9e4 ,!y dance to ! accompanim5t ( an air *ant$ by a woman or a boy4 ,! rhy?m is sl[1 ! tune languor\s1 & ! action pantomimic1 be+ made up ( c]ta9 poses & movem5ts :i*1 second$ by an eloqu5t play ( feature1 /rive to tell a /ory ( "s sort4 ,! mo/ popul> & be/ kn[n is ! ,dance ( ! ,bee4 ,! danc] pret5ds to h be5 /ung1 & pursues ! insect ) a ?\s& graceful turns & b5ds1 dive/+ h]self ( h] g>m5ts z %e does s4 ,%e fir/ appe>s ^u ! sc5e 9 ! all-envelop+ mantle common to h] c\ntrywom5 out ( doors4 ,?is remov$1 %e is se5 to be we>+ a %ort skirt1 pull$ well d[n on ! hips1 a long-sleev$ jacket ( :ite musl91 cut l[ at ! neck & op5 ne>ly all ! way f ! ?roat1 & a little coat ( brightly col\r$ silk1 sat91 or velvet4 ,h] hair hangs 9 plaits1 surm\nt$ by a t9y embroid]$ cap p]*$ high on ! head4 ,f9ally %e disc>ds bo? coat & inn] jacket1 & reveals a body cov]$ ) tattoo m>ks1 huge s]p5ts wri?+ ab\t ! legs1 & fl[]s1 birds1 & palms /&+ out prom95tly on ! :ite fle%4 ,h] bu/ is support$ by r\nd %ields jo9$ toge!r 9 front & atta*$ by a n>r[ b& beh9d1 & 9 h] h&s %e manipulates a sc>f ) m>vell\s grace & dext]ity4 ,! co/ume ( a ,turki% danc] all[s less fre$om ( movem5t1 be+ m cumb]some & elaborate4 ,! skirt rea*es to ! ankles1 :]e x t]m9ates 9 a deep hem head$ by a fr+e1 & ! little sleeveless jacket is fa/5$ at ! ?roat only1 & op5s ov] a *emisette4 ,ab\t ! wai/ a fr+$ %awl is arrang$ 9 su* a way z to sugge/ a circul> frill1 :ile a belt1 held by a l>ge clasp1 is drawn l[ on ! hips4 ,a :ite veil is ?r[n ov] ! turban & p9n$ "u ! *9 ) a jewell$ broo*1 conceal+ ! hair & e>s b leav+ ! face expos$1 & on ! feet are yell[ slipp]s sewn ) se$ pe>ls4 ,! ,sword ,dance ( ,bonnie ,scotl& has its ,ori5tal prototype 9 ! ,dance ( ! ,scimit>4 ,! latt] inspires a *>m+ co/ume4 ,a veil ( diaphan\s gauze falls cl\d-l ov] ! hair & face1 & ! :ite musl9 *emisette1 ) its sleeve to ! elb[1 is drawn 9 bel[ ! wai/ ) a col\r$ sa%1 a necklace compos$ ( r[s ( gilt co9s glitt]+ on ! b>e ?roat4 ,! ankle-l5g? skirt is ( heavi] texture1 drap$ ) a fr+$ %awl drawn r\nd ! hips1 knott$ 9 front1 & hang+ 9 a po9t beh9d2 :ile a scimit> is balanc$ on ! head1 a second be+ held 9 ! "r h&1 ! left re/+ lightly on ! hip4 ,mu* z ! mantilla makes = grace 9 ,spani% dances1 ,i1 p]sonally1 pref] ! dress ( ! peasants4 ,9 ,galicia a rural danc] delights ! eye 9 a qua9t hat %ap$ l a fool's cap1 ) ! addition ( a ?ree-corn]$ brim ( black velvet turn$ %>ply up 9 front1 "o pompon adorn+ ! summit & ano!r appe>+ midway d[n at ei!r side4 ,a sc>let sa%1 ) fr+$ ends1 is knott$ c>elessly on ! "r hip1 & ! long-sleev$ :ite %irt is ?r[n into /rik+ relief by a little sleeveless bol]o ( sc>let clo?1 ! back be>+ an embroid]$ design1 ! front conspicu\s = triangul> pockets d$icat$ to ca/anets1 & small rev]s ( black velvet4 ,! tightly-fitt+ knick]bock]s are ( tan lea!r1 f9i%$ at ! knee ) black b&s1 :]e !y are met by gait]s to mat*1 closely button$ up ! out] side4 ,a female danc] is no less picturesque 9 a %ort skirt ( /rip$ r$ & :ite1 l[ black %oes & :ite cotton /ock+s2 h] apron displays a bord] ( contra/+ col\r1 & ! *emisette is almo/ conceal$ by a %ort r\nd cape ( clo? edg$ ) black velvet1 :i* crosses ov] & fa/5s at ! left side ( ! wai/4 ,a gaily-patt]n$ k]*ief is worn on ! hair1 ! po9t fall+ beyond ! %\ld]s beh9d4 ,inf9itely m %[y is ! danc+ dress ( a pr(essional1 a memb] ( a well-kn[n tr\pe 9 ,seville4 ,! yell[ sat9 skirt1 rea*+ bel[ ! knees1 is lad5 ) glitt]+ sequ9 trimm+ & a %[] ( lace & *iffon fl\nces1 & p[d]$ ) spangles & small imitation co9s4 ,! l[-neck$ sat9 bodice has tight elb[-sleeves1 s(t5$ ) lace frills1 & f ! dcolletage dangle glitt]+ paillettes1 a clu/] ( fl[]s be+ fa/5$ at ! left %\ld]4 ,! hair is elaborately arrang$1 & a bun* ( fl[]s peeps out at ! "r side f "u ! folds ( a mantilla4 ,an important "p ( ! male danc]'s dress is a black toreador hat1 ) a l>ge pompon 9 front4 ,m]ely a glimpse is caught ( a :ite %irt front1 & ! long-sleev$ sat9 or velvet jacket is gorge\sly embroid]$ at ! wri/s4 ,simil> embroid]y %[s d[n ! outside ( ei!r leg ( ! sat9 knick]bock]s1 :i* meet :ite /ock+s accompani$ by black ballet %oes4 ,a sa% ) fr+$ ends is knott$ on "o hip1 & a cloak is ?r[n ) c>eless c>e ov] ! %\ld]s & w\nd 9 inimitable fa%ion r\nd ! left arm4 ,! ,coon dance s de> to ! ,s\? ,am]ican makes no great dem&s ^u ! skill & +5uity ( ^? entru/$ ) ! plann+ ( a suitable co/ume4 ,a %ort skirt ( r$ & :ite awn+ is ! mo/ usual1 accompani$ by a sc>let sa% knott$ l[ on ! left hip4 ,! loose :ite bl\se vaunts a sailor coll>1 turn$-back cuffs1 & a cravat ( /rip$ mat]ial mat*+ ! skirt4 ,black %oes & /ock+s are worn1 & ! l>ge /raw hat is ( ! haymak] ord]1 ! cr[n encircl$ by a r$ sc>f ti$ at ! left side ) ! ends fall+ to ! %\ld]4 ,a co/ume appeal+ to ! male danc] :o appreciates com=t is t ( gay old ,pi]rot1 ) 8 full :ite tr\s]s & black pompons1 loose coat & ruffle1 conical hat above a black silk sc>f1 :it5$ face1 & v]milion lips4 ,8 fem99e companion is a common object 9 ! fancy-dress ballrooms on & (f ! /age4 ,practically e c\ntry has its *>act]i/ic dances1 to :i* are naturally d$icat$ "s adaptation ( ! national dress4 ,!re are fancy dances 9 pl5ty :i* call = no di/9ctive /yle ( dress1 b ! fa%ion fits ! foot/ep z a rule1 & no d\bt influ5c$ its bir?4 ,! /ately movem5ts ( ! m9uet & ! grace ( ! gavotte ask = ! dignity ( p[d] & brocade2 ! c\ntry dance seems ! m]ri] = ! gaily-col\r$ flutt]+ ribbons & %ort bright petticoats2 ! hornpipe w\ld lose "s significance )\t ! co-op]ation ( navy blue & a man-o'-w> or a ,jack-t> hat2 ! hunt+ dance %\ts away = p9k2 ! ,iri% jig is %orn ( mu* ( its *>m )\t ! em]ald-gre5 skirt1 ! sc>let cloak1 & ! fold$ k]*ief2 ! ,scot* dance dem&s its t>tan2 ! ,spani% dance ! mantilla & ca/anets2 & s on ?r\gh ! :ole diction>y ( dances4 ,! mode suits ! measure1 & ! dance de/9$ to be p]=m$ 9 clogs loses its individuality :5 tripp$ 9 sat9 slipp]s2 ! t>antella c\ld n live to tell its tale 9 sabots2 ! jig w\ld jump to a conclusion "u ! /ultify+ glories ( sat9 & pat*es2 & ! s5su\s grace ( ! ,ea/ w\ld expire 9 ! bondage ( ,we/]n raim5t4 ,,*apt] ,,xx ,,( ,,!atrical ,,dress ,! "t has long gone by :5 ! dress ( 8 own p]iod w\ld s]ve ! turn ( ! actor 9 any "* 9 any play1 irrespective ( ! c5tury 9 :i* its /ory pass$4 ,t condition ( affairs has no place ev5 9 ! m5tal treasure-trove ( ! olde/ playgo]1 :o saw ,edmund ,kean1 & nev] lets y =get x4 ,al?\gh x has n be5 /at$ t ! mo/ audaci\s actor ev] v5tur$ to play ,hamlet 9 a tall hat1 solecisms no less grave h 9 ! long ago be5 committ$ & condon$1 ev5 applaud$4 ,imag9e ,o!llo address+ ! mo/ pot5t1 grave1 & rev]5d signiors ( sixte5?-c5tury ,v5ice 9 a /iff-skirt$ coat1 bree*es & wai/coat ( ! ,engli% fa%ion ( ,george ,,ii4's day1 ) a full-bottom$ wig1 a ?ree-corn]$ hat1 & a black face6 ,yet t 0 h[ ,g>rick dress$ ! "p1 &1 not)/&+1 ?rill$ 8 audi5ce to en?usiasm2 :il/ h&some ,sprang] ,b>ry won ev5 ,colley ,cibb]'s applause :5 he act$ ! dusky ,moor dress$ 9 a full suit ( gold-lac$ sc>let1 a small cock$ hat1 knee bree*es1 & silk /ock+s6 ,!n1 picture ,macbe?1 z ,g>rick play$ him1 9 a #agej suit ( black silk1 & silk /ock+s & %oes1 ) buckles at 8 knees & feet1 & a tie wig1 or 9 ! sc>let & gold-lac$ uni=m ( a ,briti% g5]al ( ,george ,,iii4's reign6 ,& fancy ,lady ,macbe? 9 enorm\s hoop$ petticoats & huge fl\nces1 z ,mrs4 ,yates dress$ h]2 yet1 :5 %e said1 ,give me ! dagg]s1 & took !m 9 h] h&s1 z an old pr9t %[s h] do+1 no "o 9 ! audi5ce record$ a ?\ght t ! action 0 incongru\s ) ! co/ume1 or ! co/ume ) ! trag$y4 ,:at a contra/ to ! sup]b gre5 & gold glories ( ! co/ume ( ,miss ,ell5 ,t]ry's ,lady ,macbe?1 immortalis$ by ,s>g5t6 ,b !re 0 no attempt 9 ^? days to give ! audi5ces any?+ bett]4 ,:5 ,b5jam9 ,we/ ask$ ,g>rick :y he did n initiate re=m 9 /age-co/ume1 8 answ] 0 t ! public w\ld n all[ x4 ,!y w\ld ?r[ a bottle at my head1 add$ ! great actor1 & he f\nd x easi] to elude ! bottle--at lea/1 t p>ticul> bottle4 ,i believe x is to ,john ,kemble we are indebt$ = ! fir/ c>eful /udy ( dress+ a "p on its m]its1 ev5 ?\gh he did n all[ himself too ne> an approa* to accuracy1 le/1 z he said1 ! public %\ld call him 9 disgu/ an antiqu>y4 ,s he did n hesitate1 9 play+ ,macbe?1 to we> a great bonnet ( ! #dbnd ,highl&]s--! ,black ,wat*4 ,b :5 ,sir ,walt] ,scott saw ?is1 he 0 s %ock$ at ! ana*ronism t he pluck$ out ! big plume & replac$ x ) a s+le broad eagle's fea!r1 ! "t-hon\r$ symbol ( ! ,highl& *iefta94 ,x 01 h[ev]1 to ! antiqu>ian rese>*es ( ,r4 ,j4 ,plan*1 = ,*>les ,kemble's production ( ,k+ ,john at ,cov5t ,g>d5 9 #ahbc1 t our /age owes its fir/ important /ep 9 ! re=m ( co/ume4 ,macready1 :o urg$ ! re=m /ill fur!r1 c>ri$ 8 s5se ( ! importance ( co/ume to su* a po9t dur+ ! rehe>sals ( ,h5ry ,v4 t he w5t to b$ 9 8 arm\r1 desir+ t1 n only %\ld ! dress become ! "p1 b he %\ld become ! dress4 ,i recollect ,sir ,h5ry ,irv+ quot+ ?is fact1 :5 tell+ me t he himself always foll[$ ! practice ( we>+ ! clo!s = a new "p a few days previ\s to assum+ !m on ! /age4 ,sir ,h5ry 01 ( c\rse1 a pa/ ma/] 9 ! art ( !atrical co/ume1 & to 8 g5ius & ta/e m ?an to any o!r influ5ce we may attribute its pres5t developm5t on ! ,engli% /age4 ,let ! old playgo] prate en?usia/ically z he w ab\t ,*>les ,kean1 & 8 spl5did ,%akespe>ean revivals at ! ,pr9cess's ,!atre1 dramatic art has nev] be5 m picturesquely1 ri*ly1 & appropriately clo!d ?an x 0 at ! ,lyceum ,!atre 9 ! great days ( ,h5ry ,irv+4 ,ev5 to talk to him ( 8 productions 0 a lib]al education 9 all arts app]ta9+ to ! !atre4 ,t ! great actor took inf9ite p]sonal tr\ble ) e detail1 & w\ld1 9 8 own co/ume1 direct ! cut ( ! drap]y1 ! %ape ( ! %irt coll>1 & ! exact position ( ! sa%1 or ! fold ( ! turban1 all :o 7 privileg$ to associate ) him at "w are fully aw>e4 ,i recall _m conv]sations ) him on ! subject ( /age co/ume1 & inv>iably he w\ld br+ out "s po9t ( its psy*ological be>+4 ,z to v>iation 9 ! int]pretation ( a "* "u ! influ5ce ( a diff]5t dress1 = in/ance1 ,i rememb] 8 say+--,:5 y h ! good =tune to act ) an actress l ,miss ,t]ry1 ! arti/ dom9ates ! woman "u any conditions ( co/ume1 & ! lea/ sugge/ion is easily grasp$ & appreciat$4 ,9 all times1 modes & mann]s mu/ influ5ce ea* o!r1 & diff]5t ge/ures inevitably accompany diff]5t co/umes4 ,y w\ld n1 = in/ance1 see a lady :5 we>+ ,grecian drap]ies disport h]self 9 ! same fa%ion z "o be>+ ! /iff /oma*] & mon/r\s f>?+ale ( ! ,elizabe?an p]iod4 ,illu/ration3 ,,miss ,,ell5 ,,t]ry ,,z ,,mi/ress ,,page4 ,aga91 we 7 discuss+ ! "q ( col\r 9 relation to c]ta9 emotions1 moods1 & traits ( "*4 ,:o w\ld ?9k ( play+ a murd]] 9 sky-blue sat9 & silv]8 ,sir ,h5ry said4 ,& n paus+ = my reply3 ,( c\rse "o expects a woman to g mad 9 :ite4 ,c y picture ,hamlet 9 col\rs8 ,surely he dem&s black clo!s1 inde$ ! text says z mu*1--al?\gh ! col\r = ! expression ( m\rn+ 9 ,d5m>k at t p]iod 01 ,i believe1 r$4 ,b1 aft] all1 ! fir/ ?+ is1 or %\ld be1 to fit ! p]sonality to ! "*1 & !n ! "q ( dress is comp>atively easy4 ,john ,ryd]1 by ! way1 us$ to expla9 8 protract$ engagem5t ) ,*>les ,kean z be+ solely due to :at he 0 wont to call 8 ar*ological figure4 ,illu/ration3 ,,isolde4 ,x has be5 que/ion$ :e!r ! public c>es1 or kn[s1 mu* ab\t ! details ( /age dress1 ^u :i* s mu* "t & ?\ght are be/[$2 b !n x is recognis$ t among/ ! neglect$ arts is ! art ( co/ume1 & p5d+ ! e/abli%m5t ( ! ,royal ,academy ( ,dress1 ov] :i*1 ( c\rse1 ,mr4 ,p]cy ,&]son %\ld preside1 visits to ! !atre may (f] to ! /ud5t consid]able in/ruction4 ,9 o!r days ! s*ol> res5t$ any incongruities ( /age-co/ume4 ,! satire ( ,pope pictures !m vividly 9 ! e>ly eighte5? c5tury3 ,su* is ! %\t1 ! long applaud+ note1 ,at ,qu9's high plume1 or ,oldfield's petticoat6 ,or :5 f ,c\rt a bir?day suit be/[$1 ,s9ks ! lo/ actor 9 ! tawdry load4 ,boo? ent]s--,h>k6 ! univ]sal peal6 ,b has he spok58 ,n a syllable4 ,:at %ook ! /age1 & made ! p />e8 ,cato's long wig1 fl[]$ g[n1 & lacqu]$ *air4 ,imag9e an anci5t ,roman 9 a p]iwig & fl[]$ g[n aft] ! ,que5 ,anne fa%ion6 ,no wond] ,addison1 z he sat 9 a side box ) two or ?ree fri5ds to wat* 8 trag$y on ! fir/ night1 ne$$ flasks ( ,burgundy & *ampagne to support 8 spirits1 = _h he n plead$ 9 a numb] ( ! ,spectator = ! poet aga9/ ! co/umi]8 ,! ord9>y me?od ( mak+ a h]o is to clap a huge plume ( fea!rs on 8 head1 :i* rises s v high t !re is (t5 a great] l5g? f 8 *9 to ! top ( 8 head ?an to ! sole ( 8 foot4444 ,z ^! sup]flu\s ornam5ts make a great man1 a pr9cess gradually receives h] gr&eur f ^? additional encumbrances :i* fall into h] tail4 ,i mean ! broad sweep+ tra9 :i* foll[s h] 9 all h] motions1 & =ms con/ant employm5t = a boy :o /&s beh9d h] to op5 & spread to advantage4 ,i d n "k h[ o!rs are affect$ at ?is sight1 b ,i mu/ confess my eyes are :olly tak5 up ) ! page's "p1 &1 z = ! ,que51 ,i am n s att5tive to any?+ %e speaks z to ! "r adju/+ ( h] tra91 le/ x %\ld *ance to trip up h] heels1 or incommode h] z %e walks to & fro ^u ! /age4 ,x is1 9 my op9ion1 a v odd spectacle to see a ,que5 v5t+ h] passions 9 a disord]$ motion1 & a little boy all ! :ile tak+ c>e !y d n ruffle ! tail ( h] g[n4 ,! p>ts t ! two p]sons act on ! /age at ! same "t are v diff]5t4 ,! pr9cess is afraid le/ %e %\ld incur ! displeasure ( ! ,k+ h] fa!r1 or lose ! h]o h] lov]1 :il/ h] att5dant is only conc]n$ le/ %e %\ld entangle h] feet 9 h] petticoat4444 ,9 %ort1 ,i w\ld h our conception rais$ by ! dignity ( ?\ght & sublimity ( expression1 r ?an by a tra9 ( robes or plume ( fea!rs4 ,b "h 0 no plea = correctness ( co/ume1 :i* might h obviat$ ! di/ractions compla9$ (4 ,n[adays we h alt]$ all t1 & inde$ we _h "o mod]n play1 ,frocks & ,frills1 frankly devot$ to dress z ! pivot ( its plot4 ,yet its au?or1 ,mr4 ,grundy1 nev] gives any v special in/ructions 9 ! matt] ( co/ume1 8 /age directions be+ v simple1 m]ely /at+ :e!r a woman %\ld be h&somely or poorly dress$4 ,he decl>es1 h[ev]1 t directly he sees ! play]s ready & made up1 he c realise :e!r or n 8 "w is go+ to be successful1 feel+ t if !y h realis$ ! p]sonalities1 & look l ! m5 & wom5 he has conceiv$1 !y w repres5t ! *>act]s conv9c+ly4 ,he audaci\sly advances ! dogma1 t e woman is at he>t a fa%ion-plate1 & ,i wi% ,i c\ld set him d[n = s]i\s conv]sion by ,mrs4 ,tree1 "o among/ ! few ^: ta/e 9 dress on ! /age is q irreproa*able1 :o nev] makes a mi/ake 9 fitt+ h] clo!s to h] "p4 ,mrs4 ,tree v[s t if y gave h] a doz5 y>ds ( :ite crpe de *9e1 %e w\ld make a co/ume 9 :i* %e c\ld appe> z ,ophelia1 ,lady ,macbe?1 ,con/ance1 & ,juliet1 & w\ld und]take 9 ! disposal ( h] drap]ies to satisfy ! dem&s ( ! mo/ exact+ critic4 ,b on ! subject ( fa%ion ,mrs4 ,tree is a h]etic1 refus+ to treat x s]i\sly1 & indulg+ 9 ! !ory t ev]y?+ is p1 no?+ is g[ns4 ,! philosophy ( clo!s z exp\nd$ by ,mrs4 ,tree1 if r5d]$ popul>1 w\ld n br+ mu* gri/ to ! mill ( ! modi/e2 b !n ,9 ?is life no?+ comes (f--except buttons is h] fav\rite pessimism4 ,i h he>d a fam\s dramati/ decl>e t :5 he wants to m>k a situation /rongly ^u ! m9ds ( ! audi5ce1 he nev] all[s ! h]o9e to make entry 9 a new frock4 ,he also cont5d$ t1 9 *oos+ h] own g[n1 ! actress %\ld *oose x 9 relation to ^? to be worn by o!r play]s appe>+ 9 ! same sc5e1 reg>d+ h]self1 n prim>ily z an individual b z "o 9 a gr\p4 ,%e %\ld also take c>e t h] dress is suit$ n only to h] surr\nd+s b to h] bus9ess1 s t no drap]y imp$e h] movem5ts1 no tightness be a b> to graceful ge/ure4 ,no less an au?ority ?an ,mr4 ,p9]o1 :5 discuss+ ! influ5ce t dress may ex]cise on ! art ( act+1 has decl>$ t our plays are = ! mo/ "p ov]-dress$1 ) extravagance1 vulg>ity1 & inappropriat5ess obta9+ 9 place ( arti/ic fitness4 ,x is well kn[n t ,p9]o takes a p]sonal int]e/ 9 e detail p]ta9+ to 8 productions1 & su* condemnation f him is condemnation inde$4 ,especially :5 he caps x by say+ t he has f\nd t ! new co/umes h to "s ext5t frequ5tly undone ! results ( 8 undress rehe>sals1 ! actresses no long] repres5t+ 8 creations z !y did be=e ! dressmak]s s5t home _! g[ns1 :ile ! v>iety ( _! imp]sonations is swamp$ by ! uni=mity ( _! fa%ions4 ,ev5 :ile grumbl+1 ,p9]o admits t /age co/ume has made wond]ful progress s9ce ! "t :5 ,rob]tson's appropriately-dress$ plays doom$ ! !atrical /ock w>drobe1 & ,alfr$ ,?ompson initiat$ re=ms mak+ = arti/ic h>mony2 nev]!less1 ,p9]o prote/s t x is "t = ! dramati/1 9 ! int]e/s ( dramatic art1 to say to ! co/umi]s & ! purveyors ( fa%ion1 ,?us f> %all ye g1 & no f>!r4 ,sir ,james ,l9ton took up ?is cry1 :ile decl>+ t ! bane ( ! dressmak] 0 ov] all fem99e /age co/ume1 & w\ld be1 until !re arose an autocratic manag]4 ,sir ,james is sev]e1 & w\ld accept no compromise1 insi/+ t dress 9 hi/orical plays %\ld be absolutely accurate1 q reg>dless ( ! becom+1 & ass]t+ t an elem5t ( incongruity is always pres5t on ! /age1 introduc$ by ! m]e vanity ( ! m]e woman4 ,9 h[ f> ! art ( co/ume may affect ! art ( drama ,i h my pet !ories1 :i* include a pr$ilection 9 fav\r ( r$ ( all %ades = hi/orical dress2 an appreciation ( ! *>m ( decoration 9 black & gold2 a recognition ( ! imm5se value ( black 9 small quantities wisely dispos$1 & mu* sympa?y ) trimm+s ( black & :ite on light dress ( mod]n fa%ion4 ,comb9ations ( col\r :i* 9 ord9>y circum/ances w\ld appe> at lea/ d>+1 &1 at ! mo/1 unpleasant1 h a knack ( be+ effective :5 worn on ! /age4 ,! deep crimson l9+ to ! sc>let cloak may be quot$ z an example ( ?is1 toge!r ) ! alliance ( em]ald gre5 ) turquoise blue1 & orange col\r ) lemon4 ,on fairies & o!r angels ( ! ballet ! repetition ( ! same co/ume is ( great value1 ! multipli$ mass en*a9+ ! eye1 :]e small] gr\ps ( div]se details fail to hold x4 ,illu/ration3 ,,george ,,alex&] ,,z ,,guy ,,domville4 ,9 mom5ts ( passionate emotion x is well t ! actor or actress %\ld disc>d a hat4 ,irv+ r>ely wore "o at all1 inv>iably tak+ ! fir/ opportunity to remove 81 be>+ x ) 8 special grace "u 8 arm or 9 8 h&1 z opportunity p]mitt$4 ,9 ! managem5t ( classic drap]y consid]able skill & mu* practice are dem&$1 & _m an actor ( contempor>y me?ods f9ds himself lo/ & awkw>d )\t ! consol+ com=t ( 8 tr\s] pocket = 8 re/less f+]s1 or ! conv5i5t coat-tail to be j]k$1 9 fits ( irritation4 ,und\bt$ly1 x is wise = ! play] to accu/om himself to unconv5tional clo!s = "s days be=e assum+ !m on ! /age3 x is only ?us t he c hope to avoid self-consci\sness & to escape inelegance ( movem5t & ge/ure4 ,wom51 al?\gh m easily adapt$ to new clo!s1 & less emb>rass$ "u _! influ5ce1 because m accu/om$ to su* privileges1 yet suff] re/ra9t 9 diff]5t attire1 & w\ld yet d well to consid] ! advisability ( rehe>s+ 9 _! frocks on m ?an "o occasion be=e !y p]mit ^! to accompany !m 9 _! hi/rionic duties4 ,! /age has (t5times _h ! privilege ( introduc+ new fa%ions1 & ! mo/ apa!tic patron ( ! playh\se may be lur$ to ! auditorium by ! report ( some?+ new 9 petticoats1 an ideal coiffure1 or ! late/ modi% m&ate obey$ to ! lett] 9 a belt4 ,miss ,violet ,vanbrugh may h ! cr$it ( br++ to notice ! elegant *>ms ( ! corselet1 & ! trim fasc9ations ( ! /ock coll>1 worn ) ! "r sort ( cravat4 ,to ,miss ,m>y ,moore ,i attribute a reviv$ popul>ity ( ! broad black ,alsatian b[2 %e wore ?is 9 velvet 9 h] clev] imp]sonation 9 ,mrs4 ,gorr+e's ,necklace1 & all ! _w ( wom5 flock$ to see & to copy2 :ile h] little %ort-wai/$ :ite musl9 frock1 ) broad ribbons & puff$ sleeves1 9 ,rosem>y made t h]o9e an inevitable figure at fancy-dress balls = mon?s aft] ! production ( ?is da9ty little play4 ,miss ,letty ,l9d1 ,miss ,kate ,vaughan1 & ,miss ,jessie ,milw>d--,i take my examples at r&om--may all be c\nt$ pione]s4 ,to ,kate ,vaughan we owe ! lace-frill$ petticoat1 b5ea? ! influ5ce ( :i* %e da9tily danc$ h] way into public fav\r4 ,miss ,letty ,l9d fir/ wore ! accordion-pleat$ danc+ skirt1 & ,miss ,jessie ,milw>d popul>is$ ! lawn-embroid]$ coll>s & cuffs4 ,i =get :i* ,adelphi melodrama %e grac$ ) ^! trifles1 b ,i am safe 9 ass]t+ t %e 0 ! h]o9e ( ! drama1 & 0 made happy by w$d+ bells z ! curta9 fell4 ,illu/ration3 ,,julian ,l',,e/range ,,z ,,h]mes4 ,x is easy = me to let my pictures 9 ?is *apt] give me my cues = dilat+ on specially spl5did productions :i* x has be5 my privilege to enjoy1 = ,mr4 ,&]son has be5 responsible = ! majority ( ^!1 & 8 p5cil has illum9at$ ! v>i\s c5turies ) exp]i5ce1 inf9ite c>e1 & a skill ( :i* ,i h promis$ him fai?fully n to speak4 ,an exception1 h[ev]1 0 ,coriolanus at ! ,lyceum1 a play l5d+ itself pre-em95tly to dignifi$ int]pretation1 & x is ne$less to say t ,sir ,h5ry ,irv+ saw t x got ?is4 ,p]haps ! great actor nev] look$ m impos+ ?an 9 ! milit>y robes ( dull r$ & leop>d sk9s1 ) a cuirass ( ri*ly-wr\ght gold1 ?\gh1 to be sure1 he always wore 8 ecclesia/ical g>b ) ! gr& air1 & z ,wolsey1 ,ri*elieu1 & ,becket he embodi$ ! v5]able magnific5ce ( e/abli%$ hol9ess4 ,illu/ration3 ,,be]bohm ,,tree ,,z ,,malvolio4 ,miss ,ell5 ,t]ry1 z ,volumnia1 also p]sonifi$ dignity1 :e!r 9 a loose g>b ( purple silk1 ) a mantle ( yell[ & br[n fall+ f a diadem-%ap$ head-dress set ) turquoise1 or :51 aft] h] successful plead+ ) h] son1 %e ?rew aside h] g>b ( woeful black1 & 0 radiant 9 a drap$ tunic embroid]$ 9 p9k & gold1 ) gold ornam5ts r\nd h] arms & turquoise *a9s ^u h] neck4 ,! picture ( ,rome "u ,n]o1 ,mr4 ,tree p]sonally inve/$ ) a purposeful effem9acy1 & 8 tunics & g>l&s ( fl[]s acc5tuat$ ! poet 9 ! man4 ,mrs4 ,tree %[$ ,agripp9a at h] be/ b5ea? ! influ5ce ( _m-col\r$ veils1 violet & r$ be+ ! dom9ant notes2 & two graci\s pictures rise be=e my eyes z ,i write1 ( ,miss ,con/ance ,colli] z ,poppa 9 :ite1 ) a ?ick wrea? ( sc>let poppies ar\nd h] dusky head1 & ( ,miss ,doro!a ,baird 9 pea* col\r1 ) lilacs entw9$ 9 h] fair hair4 ,illu/ration3 ,,lewis ,,wall] ,,z ,,h5ry ,v4 ,among/ o!r notable figures :i* dwell 9 my memory is ,miss ,lily ,hanbury z ,*orus 9 ,h5ry ,v41 produc$ by ,lewis ,wall]1 ^: mi5 9 arm\r1 be>+ a f9e cloak l9$ ) ,v5etian r$1 brea!d ! ess5tial _s ( m>tial =ce4 ,miss ,hanbury look$ wond]ful 9 drap]ies ( brilliant r$ ov] :ite1 /&+ on a p$e/al aga9/ a black backgr\nd4 ,& ! secret ( ! admirable conduct ( h] folds 0 t ! :ite "u-dress ( crpe de *9e 0 wrung :5 wet1 & r\nd ?is 7 w\nd sev5te5 y>ds ( blood-r$ crpe4 ,) ?is spl5did triumph ( p]sonality ,miss ,hanbury may class h] appe>ance z ,lady ,bless+ton 9 ,mr4 ,tree's production1 ,! ,la/ ( ! ,d&ies1 :5 %e appe>$ 9 a pale-blue sat9 g[n1 v full r\nd ! wai/1 ) a :ite *iffon d\ble-frill$ fi*u ov] h] %\ld]s1 & a bonnet be>+ a lace veil p5d5t ov] ! back1 & clu/]s ( p9k roses re/+ b5ea? ! brim 9 front4 ,! ,la/ ( ! ,d&ies 01 z x %\ld h be51 q a succs de co/ume1 & x may be writt5 d[n "u ?is aspect to ! cr$it ( ,p]cy ,&]son4 ,illu/ration3 ,,miss ,,con/ance ,,colli] ,,z ,,viola4 ,?is rem9ds me ( ! illu/rations :i* adorn ?is *apt]4 ,fir/ly1 ( ,george ,alex&] 9 ,guy ,domville1 t subtly clev] play by ,h5ry ,james1 :i* came be=e its "t & di$ ( its premature bir?4 ,sombre black is ! dress *os5 by ?is ,engli% ,prote/ant g5tleman ab\t to take holy ord]s 9 ! latt] "p ( ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,9 ,ulysses ! co/umes 7 9 =m & col\r ess5tially primitive1 ar*aic inde$1 & no less a complim5t has be5 be/[$ on ,mr4 ,&]son's "w 9 ?is direction ?an ! proposition t ! designs %\ld be acquir$ by ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,! sket* ( ,julian l',e/range z ,h]mes may be tak5 z typical2 gold & black & r$ express$ x1 & !re 7 r$ w+s to ! cap & s&als to ! feet4 ,z ,malvolio ,mr4 ,tree excell$ all 8 pr$ecessors4 ,ev5 ! old playgo] yield$ 8 admiration to ! fanta/ic *>ms ( ?is egoti/1 :o display$ j ! "r t\* ( absurdity 9 e ge/ure1 9 e inflection ( 8 voice1 & 9 e detail ( 8 clo!s1 :o 0 s elegant ) 8 elongat$ /ick1 & 8 blade-gre5 & yell[ sla%$ dress ) its mon/] ruff & foppi% frills4 ,miss ,con/ance ,colli] z ,viola wore a dress ( grey embroid]$ ) silv]1 ! cap ( sc>let toss+ a blue tassel1 :ile h] p\* ( crimson velvet embroid]$ ) gold _h peculi> slits or pockets = weapons1 & h] sleeves hung w+-l 9 exact copy ( ! ,albanian co/ume1 a happy idea1 s9ce ! ,illyria ( ,%akespe>e is ! ,albania ( to-day4 ,desdemona1 z play$ by ,miss ,g]trude ,elliot 9 ,=bes ,rob]tson's production ( ,o!llo at ! ,lyceum ,!atre1 0 a sweet & da9ty creature inde$1 we>+ ! pale/ ( col\rs1 :ite1 pale blue & silv]1 & gold1 ) a trellis ( pe>ls on h] fair head1 & ribbons & pe>ls entw9$ 9 h] fl[+ locks4 ,illu/ration3 ,,miss ,,g]trude ,,elliot ,,z ,,desdemona4 ,vronique1 ! fir/ ( a new s]ies ( comic op]as ) a plot1 0 rem>kable altoge!r = its exquisite frocks4 ,no pretti] h>mony c\ld h be5 imag9$ ?an ! *rysoprase-gre5 & :ite ( ! fir/ act1 unless x be ! _m gradations ( p9k1 c]ise1 & r$ :i* grac$ ! la/ act 9 company ) a little b& ( maid5s clad 9 pale-lemon col\r4 ,! picture ( ,vronique %[s h] ) ! close lace cap ?read$ ) little gre5 ribbons1 & ) %ort s(t glac sacque trimm$ ) ribbons1 & ?is %e wore 9 ! fam\s sw+ sc5e1 :]e ! da9tie/ ( little e>ly ,victorian brides danc$ 9 :ite musl9 & a poke bonnet "u ! %ade ( p9k & :ite *e/nut trees4 ,! ,o!llo ( my picture is we>+ a dress ( ?ick wooll5 fabric 9 deep cream tone2 8 head is b\nd ) a :ite turban1 9 :i* gre5ly gli/5s a huge em]ald1 em]alds be+ embroid]$ on ! sleeves int]sp]s$ ) a design ( r$ silk2 & !re are jewels ( all col\rs encru/$ 9 8 sword-belt1 & 8 sa% is ( r$ ca%m]e fr+$ ) r$ & gre54 ,x is invidi\s to make comp>isons--,i h he>d ?is = _m ye>s1 & kn[n x ev5 long]--yet ,i w\ld boldly decl>e t !re are b few ladies ^u ! /age :o und]/& ! important fact t1 by ! dress+ ( ! hair & ! decoration ( ! head1 !y may make or m> ! mo/ gorge\s or mo/ simple g>m5t4 ,miss ,ell5 ,t]ry & ,mrs4 ,tree %>e a tal5t = hi/orical head-dress+1 :il/ ( ! y\ng] g5]ation ,miss ,doro!a ,baird & ,miss ,lily ,brayton mo/ ju/ly des]ve ! palm ( excell5ce = ! way !y express _! s5se ( p]iod 9 ! arrangem5t ( _! tresses1 & w dismiss all hank]+s aft] ! m]ely becom+ 9 ! high] int]e/s ( ! entirely appropriate4 ,illu/ration3 ,,o!llo4 ,illu/ration3 ,v,,ronique4 ,! mo/ int]e/+ actresses ( to-day make a cult ( co/ume1 & are ev] ready ) views1 !ories1 & ev5 pr$ilections4 ,miss ,ir5e ,vanbrugh1 = example1 :o1 ) h] si/]1 ,miss ,violet ,vanbrugh1 w\ld seem to int]pret all t is fa%ionable on ! /age1 & to speak mat]ially ! la/ ^w ( mod]n /yle1 q unlike ,miss ,baird1 :o pleads = ! l9es ( nature & w\ld kill fa%ion1 frankly decl>es h] fav\rite /age co/ume 0 ! kimono 9 :i* %e play$ t excit+ sc5e 9 ,! ,gay ,"l ,quex4 ,h] exp]i5ce ( ! cr9ol9e p]iod 9 ,trelawny ( ! ,wells1 ) ! frill$ skirts1 pork-pie hats1 & ! hair-nets1 l$ ,miss ,vanbrugh to be ?ankful t 9 real life %e _h escap$ fa%ions s dete/ably uncom=table4 ,ano!r typically elegant actress is ,miss ,ellis ,jeffries1 & h] p]sonal ta/e incl9es t[>ds ! pla9e/ & simple/ co/umes1 z %e told me1 :ile add+1 ,( c\rse y won't believe me1 b x's true4 ,i *oose my frocks to suit my circum/ances on ! /age1 & also to "s ext5t ! emotions ,i h to express2 & ,i insi/$1 9 spite ( criticism1 t1 :5 ,i _h to play ! "p ( an hy/]ical woman1 ,i %\ld robe h] 9 sc>let4 ,i felt ,i c\ldn't be hy/]ical 9 :ite musl92 c\ld y8 ,miss ,m>ie ,tempe/1 exploit+ to p]fection ! s>torial possibilities ( ,peg ,w(f+ton1 made h] fir/ appe>ance 9 t play 9 a dress ( daffodil yell[ ) po9t$ bodice outl9$ ) sable1 ! skirt trimm$ ) sable1 & a lace cap fitt+ closely to h] p[d]$ head4 ,%e 0 amaz+ly hoop$ & pani]$1 & look$ h] mo/ gorge\s 9 ! second act1 9 a dress ( :ite sat9 fl\nc$ ) silv] lace1 pr(usely ornam5t$ ) ru*es & rosettes ( p9k *iffon4 ,a sc>f ( silv] tissue 0 drap$ across ! front ( ! skirt1 a knot ( black velvet deck$ ! l[ bodice1 & a fasc9at+ little black fea!r nodd$ on "o side ( ! head4 ,aga91 z ,becky ,%>p1 ,miss ,m>ie ,tempe/ %[$ h] nice s5se ( ! fitness ( ?+s1 grac+ ! hi/oric ball on ! eve ( ,wat]loo 9 p9k *iffon ) clu/]s ( roses1 & *oos+ a ,c\rt g[n ( ,empire t5d5cy1 made ) a :ite sat9 tra9 l9$ ) clo? ( gold1 & embroid]$ 9 a leaf design ( gold1 :i* also appe>$ across ! bu/ & on ! hem ( ! *iffon "u-skirt4 ,yet ,miss ,tempe/ av[$ly does n believe t ! actress %\ld subord9ate h] p]sonality 9 any way to a g5]al s*eme4 ,discuss+ ! "q1 %e said3 ,i ?9k t design]s ( !atrical co/ume z a rule are altoge!r oblivi\s ( ! special requirem5ts ( individual faces & figures4 ,to ! design]1 x seems to me1 ! actress is m]ely a note ( col\r 9 8 g5]al s*eme4 ,only t1 & no?+ m6 ,i w\ld urge t exactly ! same k9d ( co/ume _c possibly be becom+ alike to tall1 maje/ic wom5 & a little insignificant nez retr\ss p]son l me6 ,i _c af=d to h two or ?ree l9es go+ across my figure & cutt+ me up into slices2 nor c ,i h my neck muffl$ & ruffl$ up to ! eyes1 & my %\ld]s load$ ) heavy cloaks1 )\t feel+ p]fectly swamp$ & ov]:elm$--& look+ x1 :i* is worse6 ,i always ?9k1 %e conclud$1 t a woman ought to h a l>ge %>e 9 ! design+ & arrang+ ( /age-dresses1 = %e c und]/& :at is becom+ f> bett] ?an a man4 ,small matt]s ( detail are c>ri$ out bett] by wom5 ?an by m54 ,& wom51 ( c\rse1 h m pati5ce & m p]sev]ance4 ,b !atrical co/ume is a subject = a :ole volume1 n = a *apt] m]ely1 & ,i c t\* b ! fr+e ( x4 ,i h felt tempt$ to dwell ^u ! pa/1 & endeav\r to trace ! evolution ( ! idea ( accurate co/ume on ! /age f ! day1 p]haps1 :5 ! celebrat$ ,mrs4 ,mattocks ( ,cov5t ,g>d5 copi$ ! attire ( ,rub5s's second wife 9 ,v&yck's picture1 s z to appe> appropriately z ! niece ( ! ,gov]nor ( ,bruges1 9 ,! ,royal ,m]*ant1 a play adapt$ f ,beaumont & ,flet*]4 ,b1 lack+ ! p5 ( ! hi/orian & ! sci5ce ( ! psy*ologi/1 ,i h *os5 ! easi] & m humble role ( ! gossip4 ,yet1 p]haps1 ! elusive *att] ( ! actress's dress+-room may n be )\t its sugge/ive value1 m vivid1 possibly1 ?an ! utt]+s ( ! /ud5t1 = its memories h ! fragrance ( ye/]day4 ,be=e me z ,i write1 secure "u glass1 toge!r ) its au!ntic p$igree1 is ! lace coll> t ,edmund ,kean us$ to we> :5 he play$ ,hamlet2 yet x /irs no ?rill 9 me because ( ,kean1 z old ,sir ,william ,g[]1 9 ,p9]o's ,trelawny ( ! ,wells1 0 mov$ at sight ( ! *a9 ,kean wore z ,ri*>d1 because 9 8 y\? he _h se5 ! great actor4 ,b ! m]e ?\ght ( ! s(t lawn coll> & cuffs t ,h4 ,b4 ,irv+ wore ) 8 inky cloak1 gold-bord]$ & crimson-l9$1 & 8 fam\s fa!r's silv]-clasp$ belt1 br+s ! late/ & n ! lea/ accompli%$ ( ,hamlets vividly to my m9d's eye4 ,ea* tone1 ge/ure1 action1 falls naturally into a h>mony ( memory1 because ! co/ume 0 z appropriate z x 0 picturesquely *>m+--9 fact1 x 0 "r1 :i* proves ! tru? ( ,sir ,h5ry ,irv+'s doctr9e1 ,y c take x t ! "r ?+ on ! /age is at once ! mo/ effective & ! mo/ becom+4 ,a wise doctr9e1 :i* may be appli$ ) irrefutable tru? to ! art ( co/ume on & (f ! bo>ds--a doctr9e :i* may obta9 z guidance ?r\gh ! l& ( dress 9 all ! c5turies1 "u all circum/ances1 pa/ & to come4 ,,! ,,end ,pr9t$ by ,r4 ,r4 ,,cl>k1 ,,limit$1 ,ed9burgh4 99 99 99 99 99 ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,transcrib] notes3 ,p4 #ej4 'm9ev]' *ang$ to 'm9iv]' z 9 'silk l9$ ) m9iv]'4 ,p4 #adh4 'a a long' *ang$ to 'a long'4 ,p4 #bbg4 ',egytian' *ang$ to ',egyptian'4 ,v>i\s punctuation correct$4 ,note3 ,! equals sign is us$ to surr\nd bold text2 und]scores to surr\nd italic text4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------