,transcriber ,notes      ,text emphasis 
shown as ,bold and ,italics4    ,whole  
and fractional parts of numbers         
displayed as #ag-e_/h4                  
,issued ,may #bc1 #aiaa                 
,u4 ,s4 ,,department ,,of ,,agriculture4
                                        
,,farmers' ,,bulletin #ddg4             
,,bees4                                 
,,by                             ,e4 ,f4
 ,,phillips1 ,ph4 ,d41                  
,in ,charge of ,bee ,culture1 ,bureau of
 ,entomology4                           
,,washington3                           
,,government ,,printing ,,office4       
#aiaa4                                  
,,letter ,,of ,,transmittal4            
,u4 ,s4 ,department or ,agriculture1    
,bureau of ,entomology1                 
,washington4 ,d4 ,c41 ,march #d1 #aiaa4 
,sir3 ,i have the honor to transmit     
herewith a manuscript entitled ,bees1   
by ,e4 ,f4 ,phillips1 ,ph4 ,d41 in      
charge of bee culture in this bureau4   
,this paper will supersede ,farmers'    

,bulletins #ei and #cig1 ,a few new     
illustrations which add greatly to the  
value of the paper and some minor       
alterations in the text are the only    
changes in this from ,farmers'          
,bulletin #cig2 but since it is not now 
the policy of the department to  issue  
revised editions1 it is recommended that
 this bulletin be issued  under a new   
serial number4    ,in the preparation of
 this paper the aim has been to give    
briefly such  information as is needed  
by persons engaged in the keeping of    
bees1 and  to answer inquiries such as  
are frequently received from            
correspondents  of the department4 ,no  
attempt has been made to include        
discussions of  bee anatomy1 honey      
plants1 or the more special             
manipulations sometimes  practiced1 such
 as queen rearing4 ,the discussion of   
apparatus is  necessarily brief4        
,respectfully1                          
,l4 ,o4 ,howard1                        
,entomologist and ,chief of ,bureau4    

,hon1 ,james ,wilson1                   
,secretary of ,agriculture4             
,,contents4                             
,page4      ,introduction               
#e      ,location of the apiary         
#f      ,equipment in apparatus         
#i      ,workshop                       
#i      ,hives4                         
#i      ,hive stands                    
#aa      ,other apparatus               
#aa      ,equipment in bees             
#ab      ,bee behavior                  
#ae      ,directions for general        
manipulations                           
#ai      ,transferring                  
#bb      ,uniting                       
#bd      ,preventing robbing in the     
apiary                            #be   
,feeding                                
#bf      ,spring management             
#bf      ,swarm management and increase 
#bi      ,artificial swarming           
#ca      ,prevention of swarming        
#cb      ,preparation for the harvest   
#cc      ,the production of honey       

#cc      ,extracted honey               
#cd      ,comb honey                    
#cf      ,the production of wax         
#ci      ,preparations for wintering    
#dj      ,diseases and enemies          
#db      ,general information           
#dd      ,breeders of queens            
#dd      ,introducing queens            
#dd      ,dealers in bee keepers'       
supplies                            #de 
,bee keepers' associations              
#de      ,laws affecting beekeeping     
#de        ,disease inspection          
#de        ,laws against spraying fruit 
trees while in bloom          #df       
,laws against the adulteration of honey 
#df        ,when bees are a nuisance    
#df    ,supposed injury of crops by bees
                              #df       
,journals and books on beekeeping       
#df      ,publications of the           
,department of ,agriculture on          
beekeeping   #dg                        
,,illustrations4                        
,page4      ,fig4 #a4 ,a well-arranged  

apiary #g           #b4 ,a ten-frame    
hive with comb honey super and          
perforated zinc queen excluder          
#aj           #c4 ,smoker               
#aa           #d4 ,bee veil with        
silk-tulle front                        
#aa           #e ,hive tools            
#ab           #f4 ,drone and queen trap 
on hive entrance                        
#ab           #g4 ,bee escape for       
removing bees from supers               
#ac           #h4 ,spring bee escape    
#ac           #i4 ,bee brush            
#ad          #aj4 ,worker1 queen1 and   
drone                                   
#af          #aa4 ,comb architecture    
#ag          #ab4 ,egg1 larv1 and pupa  
#ah          #ac4 ,queen cells          
#ah          #ad4 ,handling the frame3  
,first position                         
#ba          #ae4 ,handling the frame3  
,second position                        
#ba          #af4 ,handling the frame 3 
,third position                         
#bb          #ag4 ,division-board feeder

 to be hung in hive in place of frame   
#bg          #ah4 ,feeder set in collar 
under hive body                         
#bg          #ai4 ,pepper-box feeder for
 use on top of frames                #bh
          #bj4 ,pan in super arranged   
for feeding                             
#bh          #ba4 ,knives for uncapping 
honey                                   
#cd          #bb4 ,honey extractor      
#ce          #bc4 ,perforated zinc queen
 excluder                               
#ch          #bd4 ,shipping cases for   
comb honey                              
#ch          #be4 ,queen mailing cage   
#de          ,,bees4                    
,,introduction4    ,beekeeping for      
pleasure and profit is carried on by    
many thousands of  people in all parts  
of the ,united ,states4 ,as a rule1 it  
is not the sole  occupation4 ,there are1
 however1 many places where an          
experienced bee  keeper can make a good 
living by devoting his entire time and  
attention  to this line of work4 ,it is 

usually unwise to undertake extensive   
beekeeping without considerable previous
 experience on a small scale1  since    
there are so many minor details which go
 to make up success in the  work4 ,it is
 a good plan to begin on a small scale1 
make the bees pay for  themselves and   
for all additional apparatus1 as well as
 some profit1 and  gradually to increase
 as far as the local conditions or the  
desires of  the individual permit4      
,bee culture is the means of obtaining  
for human use a natural product  which  
is abundant in almost all parts of the  
country1 and which would  be lost to us 
were it not for the honey bee4 ,the     
annual production of  honey and wax in  
the ,united ,states makes apiculture a  
profitable minor  industry of the       
country4 ,from its very nature it can   
never become one of  the leading        
agricultural pursuits1 but that there is
 abundant opportunity  for its growth   
can not be doubted4 ,not only is the    
honey bee valuable  as a producer1 but  

it is also one of the most beneficial of
 insects in  cross-pollinating the      
flowers of various economic plants4     
,beekeeping is also extremely           
fascinating to the majority of people as
 a  pastime1 furnishing outdoor exercise
 as well as intimacy with an insect     
whose activity has been a subject of    
absorbing study from the earliest       
times4 ,it has the advantage of being a 
recreation which pays its own way  and  
often produces no mean profit4    ,it is
 a mistake1 however1 to paint only the  
bright side of the picture  and leave it
 to the new bee keeper to discover that 
there is often  another side4 ,where any
 financial profit is derived1 beekeeping
 requires  hard work and work at just   
the proper time1 otherwise the surplus  
of  honey may be diminished or lost4    
,few lines of work require more study to
  insure success4 ,in years when the    
available nectar is limited1 surplus    
honey is secured only by judicious      
manipulations1 and it is only through   

considerable experience and often by    
expensive reverses that the bee  keeper 
is able to manipulate properly to save  
his crop4 ,anyone can  produce honey in 
seasons of plenty1 but these do not come
 every year in  most locations1 and it  
takes a good bee keeper to make the most
 of poor  years4 ,when1 even with the   
best of manipulations1 the crop is a    
failure  through lack of nectar1 the    
bees must be fed to keep them from      
starvation4    ,the average annual honey
 yield per colony for the entire        
country1 under  good management1 will   
probably be #be to #cj pounds of comb   
honey or #dj  to #ej pounds of extracted
 honey4 ,the money return to be obtained
 from  the crop depends entirely on the 
market and the method of selling the    
honey4 ,if sold direct to the consumer1 
extracted honey brings from #aj to  #bj 
cents per pound1 and comb honey from #ae
 to #be cents per section4 ,if  sold to 
dealers1 the price varies from #f to #aj
 cents for extracted honey  and from #aj

 to #ae cents for comb honey4 ,all of   
these estimates depend  largely on the  
quality and neatness of the product4    
,from the gross return  must be deducted
 from #ej cents to #a per colony for    
expenses other than  labor1 including   
foundation1 sections1 occasional new    
frames and hives1  and other            
incidentals4 ,this estimate of expense  
does not include the cost  of new hives 
and other apparatus needed in providing 
for increase in the  size of the apiary4
    ,above all it should be emphasized  
that the only way to make beekeeping  a 
profitable business is to produce only a
 first-class article4 ,we can  not      
control what the bees bring to the hive 
to any great extent1 but by  proper     
manipulations we can get them to produce
 fancy comb honey1 or if  extracted     
honey is produced it can be carefully   
cared for and neatly  packed to appeal  
to the fancy trade4 ,too many bee       
keepers1 in fact1 the  majority1 pay too
 little attention to making their goods 

attractive4 ,they  should recognize the 
fact that of two jars of honey1 one in  
an ordinary  fruit jar or tin can with a
 poorly printed label1 and the other in 
a  neat glass jar of artistic design    
with a pleasing1 attractive label1 the  
latter will bring double or more the    
extra cost of the better package4 ,it   
is perhaps unfortunate1 but nevertheless
 a fact1 that honey sells largely  on   
appearance1 and a progressive bee keeper
 will appeal as strongly as  possible to
 the eye of his customer4               
,,location ,,of ,,the ,,apiary4    ,in  
choosing a section in which to keep bees
 on an extensive scale it is  essential 
that the resources of the country be    
known4 ,beekeeping is more  or less     
profitable in almost all parts of the   
,united ,states1 but it is  not         
profitable to practice extensive        
beekeeping in localities where the      
plants do not yield nectar in large     
quantities4 ,a man who desires to make  
honey production his business may find  

that it does not pay to increase  the   
apiaries in his present location4 ,it   
may be better to move to another  part  
of the country where nectar is more     
abundant4    ,illustration3 sc,fig4     
#a4_/sc--,a well-arranged apiary4       
,the location of the hives is a matter  
of considerable importance4 ,as a  rule 
it is better for hives to face away from
 the prevailing wind and to  be         
protected from high winds4 ,in the      
,north1 a south slope is desirable4  ,it
 is advisable for hives to be so placed 
that the sun will strike them  early in 
the morning1 so that the bees become    
active early in the day1  and thus gain 
an advantage by getting the first supply
 of nectar4 ,it is  also advantageous to
 have the hives shaded during the       
hottest part of the  day1 so that the   
bees will not hang out in front of the  
hive instead of  working4 ,they should  
be so placed that the bees will not     
prove a nuisance  to passers-by or      
disturb live stock4 ,this latter        

precaution may save the  bee keeper     
considerable trouble1 for bees sometimes
 prove dangerous1  especially to horses4
 ,bees are also sometimes annoying in   
the early  spring1 for on their first   
flights they sometimes spot clothes hung
 out  to dry4 ,this may be remedied by  
having the apiary some distance from the
  clothes-drying yard1 or by removing   
the bees from the cellars on days  when 
no clothes are to be hung out4    ,the  
plot on which the hives are placed      
should be kept free from weeds1         
especially in front of the entrances4   
,the grass may be cut with a lawn       
mower1 but it will often be found more  
convenient and as efficient to  pasture 
one or more head of sheep in the apiary 
inclosure4    ,the hives should be far  
enough apart to permit of free          
manipulation4 ,if  hives are too close  
together there is danger of bees        
entering the wrong  hive on returning1  
especially in the spring4    ,these     
conditions1 which may be considered as  

ideal1 need not all be  followed4 ,when 
necessary1 bees may be kept on          
housetops1 in the back  part of city    
lots1 in the woods1 or in many other    
places where the ideal  conditions are  
not found4 ,as a matter of fact1 few    
apiaries are perfectly  located2        
nevertheless1 the location should be    
carefully planned1  especially when a   
large number of colonies are kept       
primarily for profit4    ,as a rule1 it 
is not considered best to keep more than
 #ajj colonies in  one apiary1 and      
apiaries should be at least #b miles    
apart4 ,there are so  many factors to be
 considered1 however1 that no general   
rule can be laid  down4 ,the only way to
 learn how many colonies any given      
locality will  sustain is to study the  
honey flora and the record of that place
 until  the bee keeper can decide for   
himself the best number to be kept and  
where they shall be placed4    ,the     
experience of a relatively small number 
of good bee keepers in  keeping         

unusually large apiaries indicates that 
the capabilities of the  average        
locality are usually underestimated4    
,the determination of the  size of      
extensive apiaries is worthy of         
considerable study1 for it is  obviously
 desirable to keep bees in as few places
 as possible1 to save  time in going to 
them and also expense in duplicated     
apparatus4 ,to the  majority of bee     
keepers this problem is not important1  
for most persons  keep but a small      
number of colonies4 ,this is perhaps a  
misfortune to the  industry as a whole1 
for with fewer apiaries of larger size  
under the  management of careful1       
trained bee keepers the honev production
 of the  country would be marvelously   
increased4 ,for this reason1            
professional  bee keepers are not       
favorably inclined to the making of     
thousands of  amateurs1 who often spoil 
the location for the honey producer and 
more  often spoil his market by the     
injudicious selling of honey for less   

than  it is worth or by putting an      
inferior article on the market4    ,out 
apiaries1 or those located away from the
 main apiary1 should be so  located that
 transportation will be as easy as      
possible4 ,the primary  consideration1  
however1 must be the available nectar   
supply and the  number of colonies of   
bees already near enough to draw on the 
resources4  ,the out apiary should also 
be near to some friendly person1 so that
  it may be protected against           
depredation and so that the owner may be
  notified if anything goes wrong4 ,it  
is especially desirable to have it in   
the partial care of some person who can 
hive swarms or do other similar  things 
that may arise in an emergency4 ,the    
terms under which the apiary  is placed 
on land belonging to some one else is a 
matter for mutual  agreement4 ,there is 
no general usage in this regard4        
,,equipment ,,in ,,apparatus4    ,it can
 not be insisted too strongly that the  
only profitable way to keep  bees is in 

hives with movable frames4 ,the bees    
build their combs in these  frames1     
which can then be manipulated by the bee
 keeper as necessary4  ,the keeping of  
bees in boxes1 hollow logs1 or straw    
'skeps' is not  profitable1 is often a  
menace to progressive bee keepers1 and  
should be  strongly condemned4 ,bees in 
box hives 7plain boxes with no frames   
and  with combs built at the will of the
 bees7 are too often seen in all parts  
of the country4 ,the owners may obtain  
from them a few pounds of inferior      
honey a year and carelessly continue in 
the antiquated practice4 ,in some  cases
 this type of beekeeping does little    
harm to others1 but where  diseases of  
the brood are present the box hive is a 
serious nuisance and  should be         
abolished4    ,,workshop4    ,it is     
desirable to have a workshop in the     
apiary where the crop may be  cared for 
and supplies may be prepared4 ,if the   
ground on which the hives  are located  
is not level1 it is usually better to   

have the shop on the  lower side so that
 the heavier loads will be carried down 
grade4 ,the  windows and doors should be
 screened to prevent the entrance of    
bees4  ,the wire-cloth should be placed 
on the outside of the window frames and 
should be extended about #f inches above
 the opening4 ,this upper border  should
 be held away from the frame with narrow
 wooden strips one-fourth  inch in      
thickness so as to provide exits for    
bees which accidentally get  into the   
house4 ,bees do not enter at such       
openings1 and any bees which  are       
carried into the house fly at once to   
the windows and then crawl  upward1 soon
 clearing the house of all bees4 ,the   
windows should be so  arranged that the 
glass may be slid entirely away from the
 openings to  prevent bees from being   
imprisoned4 ,the equipment of benches   
and racks  for tools and supplies can be
 arranged as is best suited to the      
house4 ,it  is a good plan to provide   
racks for surplus combs1 the combs being

 hung  from strips separated the        
distance of the inside length of the    
hive4    ,,hives4    ,it is not the     
purpose of this bulletin to advocate the
 use of any  particular make of hive or 
other apparatus4 ,some general          
statements may  be made1 however1 which 
may help the beginner in his choice4    
,the type of hive most generally used in
 this country 7fig4 #b7 was  invented by
 ,langstroth in #ahea4 ,it consists of a
 plain wooden box holding  frames hung  
from a rabbet at the top and not        
touching the sides1 top1 or  bottom4    
,hives of this type are made to hold    
eight1 ten1 or more frames4  ,the size  
of frame in general use1 known as the   
,langstroth 7or ,l7 frame  7#i-a_/h by  
#ag-e_/h inches71 is more widely used   
than all others combined4  ,one of the  
best features in hive manufacture       
developed by ,langstroth  is the making 
of the spaces between frames1 side      
walls1 and supers  accurately1 so that  
there is just room for the easy passage 

of bees4 ,in  a space of this size      
7called a bee space7 bees rarely build  
comb or  deposit propolis4    ,the      
number of frames used depends on the    
kind of honey produced 7whether  comb or
 extracted7 and on the length of honey  
flow and other local  factors4 ,there   
are other hives used which have points  
of superiority4  ,these will be found   
discussed in the various books on       
beekeeping and in  the catalogues of    
dealers in bee keepers' supplies4       
,whatever hive is  chosen1 there are    
certain important points which should be
 insisted on4  ,the material should be  
of the best2 the parts must be          
accurately made1  so that all frames or 
hives in the apiary are interchangeable4
 ,all hives  should be of the same style
 and size2 they should be as simple as  
it is  possible to make them1 to        
facilitate operation4 ,simple frames    
diminish  the amount of propolis1 which 
will interfere with manipulation4 ,as a 
rule1 it is better to buy hives and     

frames from a manufacturer of such      
goods rather than to try to make them1  
unless one is an expert woodworker4     
,the choice of a hive1 while important1 
is usually given undue prominence  in   
books on bees4 ,in actual practice      
experienced bee keepers with  different 
sizes and makes of hives under similar  
conditions do not find  as much         
difference in their honey crop as one   
would be led to believe  from the       
various published accounts4             
,illustration3 sc,fig4 #b4_/sc--,a      
#aj-;frame hive with comb honey super   
and perforated zinc queen excluder4     
,hives should be painted to protect them
 from the weather4 ,it is usually       
desirable to use white paint to prevent 
excessive heat in the colony  during hot
 weather4 ,other light colors are       
satisfactory1 but it is best  to avoid  
red or black4    ,,hive ,,stands4       
,generally it is best to have each hive 
on a separate stand4 ,the entrance      
should be lower than any other part of  

the hive4 ,stands of wood1 bricks1  tile
 7fig4 #b71 concrete blocks1 or any     
other convenient material will  answer  
the purpose4 ,the hive should be raised 
above the ground1 so that  the bottom   
will not rot4 ,it is usually not        
necessary to raise the hive  more than a
 few inches4 ,where ants are a nuisance 
special hive stands are  sometimes      
necessary4    ,illustration3 sc,fig4    
#c4_/sc--,smoker4    ,illustration3     
sc,fig4 #d4_/sc--,bee veil with         
silk-tulle front4    ,,other            
,,apparatus4    ,in addition to the     
hives in which the bees are kept some   
other apparatus  is necessary4 ,a good  
smoker to quiet the bees 7fig4 #c71     
consisting of a  tin or copper          
receptacle to hold burning rotten wood  
or other material1  with a bellows      
attached1 is indispensable4 ,a veil of  
black material1  preferably with a black
 silk-tulle front 7fig4 #d71 should be  
used4 ,black  wire-cloth veils are also 
excellent4 ,even if a veil is not always

 used1  it is desirable to have one at  
hand in case the bees become cross4     
,cloth  or leather gloves are sometimes 
used to protect the hands1 but they     
hinder most manipulations4 ,some sort of
 tool 7fig4 #e7 to pry hive covers      
loose and frames apart is desirable4 ,a 
screwdriver will answer1 but any  of the
 tools made especially for that purpose 
is perhaps better4 ,division  boards    
drone traps 7fig4 #f71 bee escapes      
7figs4 #g and #h71 feeders  7figs4 #ag1 
#ah1 #ai1 #bj71 foundation fasteners1   
wax extractors1 bee brushes  7fig4 #i71 
queen-rearing outfits1 and apparatus for
 producing comb or  extracted honey     
7figs4 #b1 #ba1 #bb7 will be found      
described in catalogues  of supplies3 a 
full discussion of these implements     
would require too much  space in this   
bulletin4 ,a few of these things are    
illustrated1 and their  use will be     
evident to the bee keeper4 ,it is best  
to have the frames  filled with         
foundation to insure straight combs     

composed of worker cells  only4         
,foundation is made from thin sheets of 
pure beeswax on which are  impressed the
 bases of the cells of the comb4 ,on    
this as a guide the  worker bees        
construct the combs4 ,when sheets of    
foundation are inserted  they should be 
supported by wires stretched across the 
frames4 ,frames  purchased from supply  
dealers are usually pierced for wiring4 
,it should  be remembered that          
manipulation based on a knowledge of bee
 behavior  is of far greater importance 
than any particular style of apparatus4 
,in a short discussion like the present 
it is best to omit descriptions  of     
appliances1 since supply dealers will be
 glad to furnish whatever  information  
is desired concerning apparatus4        
,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4--;,hive tools4 
,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4--;,drone and   
queen trap on hive entrance4            
,,equipment ,,in ,,bees4    ,as stated  
previously1 it is desirable to begin    
beekeeping with a small  number of      

colonies4 ,in purchasing these it is    
usually best to obtain them  near at    
home rather than to send to a distance1 
for there is considerable  liability of 
loss in shipment4 ,whenever possible it 
is better to get  bees already domiciled
 in the particular hive chosen by the   
bee keeper1  but if this is not         
practicable then bees in any hives or in
 box hives  may be purchased and        
transferred4 ,it is a matter of small   
importance  what race of bees is        
purchased1 for queens of any race may be
 obtained  and introduced in place of   
the original queen1 and in a short time 
the  workers will all be of the same    
race as the introduced queen4 ,this is  
due to the fact that during the honey   
season worker bees die rapidly1 and     
after requeening they are replaced by   
the offspring of the new queen4         
,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4--;,bee escape  
for removing bees from  supers4    ,a   
most important consideration in         
purchasing colonies of bees is to  see  

to it that they are free from disease4  
,in many ,states and counties  there are
 inspectors of apiaries who can be      
consulted on this point1 but  if this is
 not possible even a novice can tell    
whether or not there is  anything wrong 
with the brood1 and it is always safest 
to refuse hives  containing dead brood4 
,the best time of the year to begin     
beekeeping is in the spring1 for  during
 the first few months of ownership the  
bee keeper can study the  subject and   
learn what to do1 so that he is not so  
likely to make a  mistake which will end
 in loss of bees4 ,it is usually best to
 buy good  strong colonies with plenty  
of brood for that season of the year1   
but  if this is not practicable1 then   
smaller colonies1 or nuclei1 may be     
purchased and built up during the summer
 season4 ,of course1 no surplus  honey  
can be expected if all the honey        
gathered goes into the making of        
additional bees4 ,it is desirable to get
 as little drone comb as possible  and a

 good supply of honey in the colonies   
purchased4    ,illustration3 ,fig4      
#h4--,spring bee escape4    ,the        
question as to what race and strain of  
bees is to be kept is  important4 ,if   
poor stock has been purchased locally1  
the bee keeper  should send to some     
reliable queen breeder for good queens  
as a  foundation for his apiary4 ,queens
 may be purchased for #a each for       
untested to several dollars each for    
selected breeding queens4  ,usually it  
will not pay beginners to buy selected  
breeding queens1 for  they are not yet  
prepared to make the best use of such   
stock4 ,untested  or tested queens are  
usually as good a quality as are        
profitable for a  year or so1 and there 
is also less danger in mailing untested 
7young7  queens4    ,various races of   
bees have been imported into the ,united
 ,states and among  experienced bee     
keepers there are ardent advocates of   
almost all of  them4 ,the black or      
,german race was the first imported1    

very early in the  history of the       
country1 and is found everywhere1 but   
usually not entirely  pure4 ,as a rule  
this race is not desirable4 ,no         
attention has been paid to  breeding it 
for improvement in this country1 and it 
is usually found in  the hands of       
careless bee keepers4 ,as a result it is
 inferior1 although  it often produces  
beautiful comb honey4    ,the ,italian  
bees1 the next introduced1 are the most 
popular race among  the best bee keepers
 in this country1 and with good reason4 
,they are  vigorous workers and good    
honey gatherers1 defend their hives     
well1 and  above all have been more     
carefully selected by ,american breeders
 than any  other race4 ,especially for  
the last reason it is usually desirable 
to  keep this race4 ,that almost any    
other race of bees known could be bred  
to  as high a point as the ,italians1   
and perhaps higher1 can not be doubted1 
but the bee keeper now gets the benefit 
of what has been done for this  race4   

,it should not be understood from this  
that the efforts at breeding  have been 
highly successful4 ,on the contrary1 bee
 breeding will compare  very unfavorably
 with the improvement of other animals  
or plants which  have been the subject  
of breeding investigations4             
,illustration3 ,fig4 #i4--;,bee brush4  
,italian bees have been carefully       
selected for color by some breeders  to 
increase the area of yellow on the      
abdomen1 until we now have what  are    
known as five-banded bees4 ,these are   
very beautiful1 but it can  scarcely be 
claimed that they are improved as honey 
producers or in  regard to gentleness4  
,they are kept mostly by amateurs4 ,some
 breeders  have claimed to select       
,italians for greater length of tongue1 
with the  object of getting a bee which 
could obtain the abundance of nectar    
from red clover4 ,if any gain is ever   
made in this respect1 it is soon  lost4 
,the terms red-clover bees or           
long-tongued bees are somewhat          

misleading1 but are ordinarily used as  
indicating good honey producers4        
,caucasian bees1 formerly distributed   
throughout the country by  this         
department1 are the most gentle race of 
bees known4 ,they are  not stingless1   
however1 as is often stated in          
newspapers and other  periodicals4 ,many
 report them as good honey gatherers4   
,they are more  prolific than ,italians 
and may possibly become popular4 ,their 
worst  characteristic is that they      
gather great quantities of propolis and 
build  burr and brace combs very freely4
 ,they are most desirable bees for the  
amateur or for experimental purposes4   
,carniolan and ,banat bees have some    
advocates1 and are desirable in that    
they are gentle4 ,little is known of    
,banats in this country1 ,carniolans    
swarm excessively unless in' large      
hives4 ,cyprians were formerly used     
somewhat1 but are now rarely found pure1
 and are undesirable either  pure or in 
crosses because of the fact that they   

sting with the least  provocation and   
are not manageable with smoke4 ,they are
 good honey  gatherers1 but their       
undesirable qualities have caused them  
to be  discarded by ,american bee       
keepers4 '',holy-land1 ,egyptian1 and   
,punic  7,tunisian7 bees have also been 
tried and have been universally         
abandoned4    ,the ,department of       
,agriculture does not now distribute or 
sell queen bees  or colonies of bees of 
any race4      ,,bee ,,behavior4    ,the
 successful manipulation of bees depends
 entirely on a knowledge  of their      
habits4 ,this is not generally          
recognized1 and most of the  literature 
on practical beekeeping consists of sets
 of rules to guide  manipulations4 ,this
 is too true of the present paper1 but  
is due to a  desire to make the bulletin
 short and concise4 ,while this method  
usually  answers1 it is nevertheless    
faulty1 in that1 without a knowledge of 
fundamental principles of behavior1 the 
bee keeper is unable to recognize  the  

seemingly abnormal phases of activity1  
and does not know what to do  under such
 circumstances4 ,rules must1 of course1 
be based on the usual  behavior4 ,by    
years of association the bee keeper     
almost unconsciously  acquires a wide   
knowledge of bee behavior1 and          
consequently is better  able to solve   
the problems which constantly arise4    
,however1 it would save  an infinite    
number of mistakes and would add greatly
 to the interest of  the work if more   
time were expended on a study of        
behavior2 then the  knowledge gained    
could be applied to practical           
manipulation4    ,a colony of bees      
consists normally of one queen bee 7fig4
 #aj1 b71 the  mother of the colony1 and
 thousands of sexually undeveloped      
females  called workers 7fig4 #aj1 a71  
which normally lay no eggs1 but build   
the comb1 gather the stores1 keep the   
hive clean1 feed the young1 and  do the 
other work of the hive4 ,during part of 
the year there are also  present some   

hundreds of males 7fig4 #aj1 c7 or      
drones 7often removed or  restricted in 
numbers by the bee keeper71 whose only  
service is to mate  with young queens4  
,these three types are easily           
recognized1 even by a  novice4 ,in      
nature the colony lives in a hollow tree
 or other cavity1 but  under            
manipulation thrives in the artificial  
hives provided4 ,the combs  which form  
their abode are composed of wax secreted
 by the workers4 ,the  hexagonal cells  
of the two vertical layers constituting 
each comb have  interplaced ends on a   
common septum4 ,in the cells of these   
combs are  reared the developing bees1  
and honey and pollen for food are also  
stored  here4    ,the cells built       
naturally are not all of the same size1 
those used in  rearing worker bees being
 about one-fifth of an inch across1 and 
those  used in rearing drones and in    
storing honey about one-fourth of an    
inch  across 7fig4 #aa74 ,the upper     
cells in natural combs are more         

irregular1  and generally curve upward  
at the outer end4 ,they are used chiefly
  for the storage of honey4 ,under      
manipulation the size of the cells is   
controlled by the bee keeper by the use 
of comb foundation--sheets of  pure     
beeswax on which are impressed the bases
 of cells and on which the  bees build  
the side walls4    ,illustration3 ,fig4 
#aj4--,the honey bee3 a1 ,worker2 b1    
queen2 c1  drone4 ,twice natural size4  
,in the ,north1 when the activity of the
 spring begins1 the normal colony       
consists of the queen and some thousands
 of workers4 ,as the outside            
temperature raises1 the queen begins to 
lay eggs 7fig4 #ab1 a7 in the  worker   
cells4 ,these in time develop into white
 larv 7fig4 #ab1 b1 c71  which grow to  
fill the cells4 ,they are then capped   
over and transform  first into pup 7fig4
 #ab1 d7 and then into adult worker     
bees4 ,as the  weather grows warmer1 and
 the colony increases in size by the    
emergence  of the young bees1 the       

quantity of brood is increased4 ,the    
workers  continue to bring in pollen1   
nectar to be made into honey1 and water 
for brood rearing4 ,when the hive is    
nearly filled with bees and stores1  or 
when a heavy honey flow is on1 the queen
 begins to lay eggs in the  larger      
cells1 and these develop into drones or 
males4 ,continued increase  of the      
colony would result in the formation of 
enormous1 colonies1 and  unless some    
division takes place no increase in the 
number of colonies  will result4        
,finally1 however1 the workers begin to 
build queen cells  7fig4 #ac74 ,these   
are larger than any other cells ,in the 
hive and hang on  the comb vertically4  
,in size and shape they may be likened  
to a peanut1  and are also rough on the 
outside4 ,in preparing for swarming the 
queen  sometimes lays eggs in partly    
constructed queen cells1 but when a     
colony  becomes queenless the cells are 
built around female larv4 ,the larv in  
these cells receive special food1 and   

when they have grown to full size  they1
 too1 are sealed up1 and the colony is  
then ready for swarming4                
,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa4--;,comb       
architecture3 a1 ,vertical section  at  
top of comb2 b1 vertical section showing
 transition from worker to  drone cells2
 c1 horizontal section at side of comb  
showing end bar of  frame2 d1 horizontal
 section of worker brood cells2 e1      
diagram showing  transition cells4      
,natural size4    ,the issuing of the   
first swarm from a colony consists of   
the departure  of the original queen    
with part of the workers4 ,they leave   
behind the  honev stores1 except such as
 they can carry in their honey stomachs1
 the  brood1 some workers1 drones1      
several queen cells1 from which will    
later  emerge young queens1 but no adult
 queen4 ,by this interesting process the
  original colony is divided into two4  
,the swarm finds a new location in some 
place1 such as a hollow tree1 or1  if   
cared for by the bee keeper1 in a hive4 

,the workers build new combs1  the queen
 begins laying1 and in a short time the 
swarm becomes a normal  colony4         
,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab4--,the honey   
bee3 a1 ,egg2 b1 young larva2  c1 old   
larva2 d1 pupa4 ,three times natural    
size4    ,the colony on the old stand   
7parent colony7 is increased by the bees
  emerging from the brood4 ,after a time
 7usually about seven or eight days7    
the queens in their cells are ready to  
emerge4 ,if the colony is only          
moderately strong the first queen to    
emerge is allowed by the workers to     
tear down the other queen cells and kill
 the queens not yet emerged1 but  if a  
second swarm is to be given off the     
queen cells are protected4    ,if the   
weather permits1 when from #e to #h days
 old1 the young queen flies  from the   
hive to mate with a drone4 ,mating      
usually occurs but once during  the life
 of the queen and always takes place on 
the wing4 ,in mating she  receives      
enough spermatozoa 7male sex cells7 to  

last throughout her life4  ,she returns 
to the hive after mating1 and in about  
two days begins egg  laying4 ,the queen 
never leaves the hive except at mating  
time or with  a swarm1 and her sole duty
 in the colony is to lay eggs to keep up
 the  population4    ,when the flowers  
which furnish most nectar are in bloom1 
the bees usually  gather more honey than
 they need for their own use1 and this  
the bee  keeper can safely remove4 ,they
 continue the collection of honey and   
other  activities until cold weather    
comes on in the fall1 when brood rearing
  ceases2 they then become relatively   
quiet1 remaining in the hive all        
winter1 except for short flights on warm
 days4 ,when the main honey flow  is    
over1 the drones are usually driven from
 the hive4 ,by that time the  virgin    
queens have been mated and drones are of
 no further use4 ,they are  not usually 
stung to death1 but are merely carried  
or driven from the  hive by the workers 
and starve4 ,a colony of bees which for 

any reason is  without a queen does not 
expel the drones4    ,illustration3     
,fig4 #ac4--,queen cells4 ,natural size4
    ,many abnormal conditions may arise 
in the activity of a colony1 and it is  
therefore necessary for the bee keeper  
to understand most of these1 so  that   
when they occur he may overcome them4   
,if a virgin queen is prevented  from   
mating she generally dies1 but          
occasionally begins to lay eggs  after  
about four weeks4 ,in this event1       
however1 all of the eggs which  develop 
become males4 ,such a queen is commonly 
called a drone layer4    ,if the virgin 
queen is lost while on her flight1 or   
the colony at any  other time is left   
queenless without means of rearing      
additional queens1  it sometimes happens
 that some of the workers begin to lay  
eggs4 ,these  eggs also develop only    
into drones4    ,it also happens at     
times that when a queen becomes old her 
supply of  spermatozoa is exhausted1 at 
which tune her eggs also develop only   

into  drones4 ,these facts are the basis
 of the theory that the drone of the    
bee is developed from an unfertilized   
egg or is partheno-genetic4 ,a full     
discussion of this point is impossible  
in this place4    ,the work of the hive 
is very nicely apportioned among the    
inmates1  so that there is little lost  
effort4 ,as has been stated1 the rearing
  of young is accomplished by having one
 individual to lay eggs and  numerous   
others 7immature females or workers7 to 
care for the larv4  ,in like manner all 
work of the colony is apportioned4 ,in  
general1 it  may be stated that all     
inside work--wax building1 care of      
brood1 and  cleaning--is done by the    
younger workers1 those less than #ag    
days old1  while the outside work of    
collecting pollen and nectar to be made 
into  honey is done by the older        
workers4 ,this plan may be changed by   
special  conditions4 ,for example1 if   
the colony has been queenless for a tune
 and  a queen is then given1 old workers

 may begin the inside work of feeding   
larv1 and these may also secrete wax4   
,or1 if the old workers are all         
removed1 the younger bees may begin     
outside work4 ,as a rule1 however1 the  
general plan of division of labor       
according to age is probably followed   
rather closely4      ,,directions ,,for 
,,general ,,manipulations4    ,bees     
should be handled so that they will be  
little disturbed in their  work4 ,as    
much as possible1 stings should be      
avoided during manipulation4  ,this is  
true1 not so much because they are      
painful to the operator1 but  because   
the odor of poison which gets into the  
air irritates the other  bees and makes 
them more difficult to manage4 ,for this
 reason it is most  advisable to wear a 
black veil 7fig4 #d7 over a wide-brimmed
 hat and  to have a good smoker 7fig4   
#c74 ,gloves1 however1 are usually more 
an  inconvenience than otherwise4       
,gauntlets or rubber bands around the   
cuffs  keep the bees from crawling up   

the sleeve4 ,it is best to avoid black  
clothing1 since that color seems to     
excite bees2 a black felt hat is        
especially to be avoided4               
,superfluous quick movements tend to    
irritate the bees4 ,the hive should  not
 be jarred or disturbed any more than   
necessary4 ,rapid movements are         
objectionable1 because with their       
peculiar eye structure bees probably    
perceive motion more readily than they  
do objects4 ,persons not accustomed  to 
bees1 on approaching a hive1 often      
strike at bees which fly toward  them or
 make some quick movement of the head or
 hand to avoid the sting  which they    
fear is to follow4 ,this should not be  
done1 for the rapid  movement1 even if  
not toward the bee1 is far more likely  
to be followed  by a sting than         
remaining quiet4    ,the best time to   
handle bees is during the middle of warm
 days1  particularly during a honey     
flow4 ,never handle bees at night or on 
cold1  wet days unless absolutely       

necessary4 ,the work of a beginner may  
be  made much easier and more pleasant  
by keeping gentle bees4 ,caucasians1    
,carniolans1 ,banats1 and some strains  
of ,italians ordinarily do not sting    
much unless unusually provoked or except
 in bad weather4 ,common black  bees or 
crosses of blacks with other races are  
more irritable4 ,it may be  well worth  
while for the beginner to procure gentle
 bees while gaining  experience in      
manipulation4 ,later on1 this is less   
important1 for the  bee keeper learns to
 handle bees with little inconvenience  
to himself or  to the bees4 ,various    
remedies for bee stings have been       
advocated1 but  they are all useless4   
,the puncture made by the sting is so   
small that  it closes when the sting is 
removed and liquids can not be expected 
to  enter4 ,the best thing to do when   
stung is to remove the sting as soon as 
possible without squeezing the poison   
sac1 which is usually attached4  ,this  
can be done by scraping it out with a   

knife or finger nail4 ,after  this is   
done the injured spot should be let     
alone and not rubbed with any  liniment4
 ,the intense itching will soon         
disappear2 any irritation only  serves  
to increase the afterswelling4          
,before opening a hive the smoker should
 be lighted and the veil put on4  ,a few
 puffs of smoke directed into the       
entrance will cause the bees to  fill   
themselves with honey and will drive    
back the guards4 ,the hive  cover should
 be raised gently1 if necessary being   
pried loose with a  screwdriver or      
special hive tool4 ,when slightly       
raised1 a little more  smoke should be  
blown in vigorously on the tops of the  
frames1 or if a  mat covering for the   
frames is used1 the cover should be     
entirely removed  and one corner of the 
mat lifted to admit smoke4 ,it is not   
desirable to  use any more smoke than   
just enough to subdue the bees and keep 
them down  on the frames4 ,if at any    
time during manipulation they become    

excited1  more smoke may be necessary4  
,do not stand in front of the entrance1 
but  at one side or the back4    ,after 
the frames are exposed they may be      
loosened by prying gently with  the hive
 tool and crowded together a little so  
as to give room for the  removal of one 
frame4 ,in cool weather the propolis    
7bee glue7 may be  brittle4 ,care should
 be exercised not to loosen this        
propolis with a  jar4 ,the first frame  
removed can be leaned against the hive1 
so that  there will be more room inside 
for handling the others4 ,during all    
manipulations bees must not be mashed or
 crowded1 for it irritates the  colony  
greatly and may make it necessary to    
discontinue operations4  ,undue crowding
 may also crush the queen4 ,if bees     
crawl on the hands1 they  may be gently 
brushed off or thrown off4              
,illustration3 ,fig4 #ad4--;,handling   
the frame3 ,first position4    ,in      
examining a frame hold it over the hive 
if possible1 so that any bees  or queen 

which fall may drop into it4 ,freshly   
gathered honey also often  drops from   
the frame1 and if it falls in the hive  
the bees can quickly  clean it up1      
whereas if it drops outside it is untidy
 and may cause  robbing4 ,if a frame is 
temporarily leaned against the hive1 it 
should be  placed in a nearly upright   
position to prevent breakage and leaking
 of  honey4 ,the frame on which the     
queen is located should not be placed on
  the ground1 for fear she may crawl    
away and be lost4 ,it is best to lean   
the frame on the side of the hive away  
from the operator1 so that bees  will   
not crawl up his legs4    ,illustration3
 ,fig4 #ae4--;,handling the frame3      
,second position4    ,in hanging frames 
the comb should always be held in a     
vertical position1  especially if it    
contains much honey4 ,when a frame is   
lifted from the  hive by the top bar1   
the comb is vertical with one side      
toward the  operator 7fig4 #ad74 ,to    
examine the reverse side1 raise one end 

of the top  bar until it is             
perpendicular 7fig4 #ae71 turn the frame
 on the top bar as  an axis until the   
reverse side is in view1 and then lower 
to a horizontal  position with the top  
bar below 7fig4 #af74 ,in this way there
 is no extra  strain on the comb and the
 bees are not irritated4 ,this care is  
not so  necessary with wired combs1 but 
it is a good habit to form in handling  
frames4    ,it is desirable to have     
combs composed entirely of worker cells 
in  order to reduce the amount of drone 
brood4 ,the use of full sheets of       
foundation will bring this about and is 
also of value in making the  combs      
straight1 so that bees are not mashed in
 removing the frame4 ,it  is extremely  
difficult to remove combs built         
crosswise in the hive1 and  this should 
never be allowed to occur4 ,such a hive 
is even worse than a  plain box hive4   
,superfluous inside fixtures should be  
avoided1 as they  tend only to impede   
manipulation4 ,the hive should also be  

placed so that  the entrance is         
perfectly horizontal and a little lower 
than the back  of the hive4 ,the frames 
will then hang in a vertical position1  
and the  outer ones will not be fastened
 by the bees to the hive body if        
properly  spaced at the top4            
,illustration3 ,fig4 #af4--;,handling   
the frame3 ,third position4    ,in      
placing frames in the hive great care   
should be exercised that they  are      
properly spaced4 ,some frames are       
self-spacing1 having projections on  the
 side1 so that when placed as close as  
possible they are the correct  distance 
apart4 ,these are good for beginners or 
persons who do not judge  distances well
 and are preferred by many professional 
bee keepers4 ,if  unspaced frames are   
used1 the brood frames should be #a-c_/h
 inches from  center to center4 ,a      
little practice will usually enable     
anyone to space  quickly and accurately4
 ,careful spacing is necessary to       
prevent the  building of combs of       

irregular thickness and to retard the   
building of  pieces of comb from one    
frame to another4    ,a beginner in     
beekeeping should by all means1 if      
possible1 visit some  experienced bee   
keeper to get suggestions in handling   
bees4 ,more can be  learned in a short  
visit than in a considerably longer time
 in reading  directions1 and numerous   
short cuts which are acquired by        
experience will  well repay the trouble 
or expense of such a visit4 ,not all    
professional  bee keepers manipulate in 
the very best way1 but later personal   
experience will correct any erroneous   
information4 ,above all1 personal       
experimentation and a study of bee      
activity are absolute necessities in    
the practical handling of bees4         
,,transferring4    ,in increasing the   
apiary it is sometimes best to buy      
colonies in box  hives on account of    
their smaller cost and to transfer them 
to hives with  movable frames4 ,this    
should be done as soon as possible1 for 

box hive  colonies are of small value as
 producers4 ,the best time to transfer  
is in  the spring 7during fruit bloom in
 the ,north7 when the amount of honey   
and  the population of the colony are at
 a minimum4    ,transferring should not 
be delayed until spring merely because  
that  season is best for the work4 ,it  
may be done at any time during the      
active season1 but1 whenever possible1  
during a honey flow1 to prevent         
robbing4 ,if necessary1 it may be done  
in a tent such as is often used in      
manipulating colonies4 ,by choosing a   
time of the day when the largest  number
 of bees are in the field the work will 
be lessened4    ,plan #a4--,the box hive
 should be moved a few feet from its    
stand and  in its place should be put a 
hive with movable frames containing full
  sheets of foundation4 ,the box hive   
should be turned upside down and a      
small1 empty box inverted over it4 ,by  
drumming continuously on the box  hive  
with sticks for a considerable time the 

bees will be made to desert  their combs
 and go to the upper box1 and when most 
of them are clustered  above1 the bees  
may be dumped in front of the entrance  
of the hive which  is to house them4    
,the queen will usually be seen as the  
bees enter the  hive1 but1 in case she  
has not left the old combs1 more        
drumming will  induce her to do so4 ,it 
is necessary that the queen be in the   
hive before  this manipulation is       
finished4 ,the old box hive containing  
brood may  now be placed right side up  
in a new location and in #ba days all of
 the  worker brood will have emerged and
 probably some new queens will have     
been reared4 ,these bees may then be    
drummed out and united with their       
former hive mates by vigorously smoking 
the colony and the drummed bees  and    
allowing the latter to enter the hive   
through a perforated zinc to  keep out  
the young queens4 ,the comb in the box  
hive may then be melted up  and any     
honey which it may contain used as the  

bee keeper sees fit4 ,by  this method   
good straight combs are obtained4 ,if   
little honey is being  gathered1 the    
colony in the hive must be provided with
 food4    ,plan #b4--;,if1 on the other 
hand1 the operator desires to save the  
combs  of the box hive1 the bees may be 
drummed into a box and the brood combs  
and other fairly good combs cut to fit  
frames and tied in place or held  with  
rubber bands1 strings1 or strips of wood
 until the bees can repair  the damage  
and fill up the breaks4 ,these frames   
can then be hung in a  hive on the old  
stand and the bees allowed to go in4    
,the cutting of  combs containing brood 
with more or less bees on them is a     
disagreeable  job1 and1 since the combs 
so obtained are usually of little value 
in an  apiary1 the first method is      
recommended4    ,plan #c4--;,another    
good plan is to wait until the colony   
swarms and then  move the box hive to   
one side4 ,a movable frame hive is now  
placed in the  former location of the   

box hive and the swarm is hived in it4  
,in this  way all returning field bees  
are forced to join the swarm4 ,in #ba   
days  all of the worker brood in the box
 hive will have emerged4 ,these young   
bees may then be united with the bees in
 the frame hive and the box hive        
destroyed4    ,colonies often take up   
their abode in walls of houses and it is
 often  necessary to remove them to     
prevent damage from melting combs4 ,if  
the cavity in which the combs are built 
can be reached1 the method  of procedure
 is like that of transferring1 except   
that drumming is  impractical and the   
bees must simply be subdued with smoke  
and the combs  cut out with the bees on 
them4    ,another method which is often 
better is to place a bee escape over the
  entrance to the cavity1 so that the   
bees can come out1 but can not  return4 
,a cone of wire cloth about #h inches   
high with a hole at the apex  just large
 enough for one bee to pass will serve  
as a bee escape1 or  regular bee escapes

 7fig4 #h7 such as are sold by dealers  
may be used4  ,a hive which they can    
enter is then placed beside the         
entrance4 ,the  queen is not obtained in
 this way and1 of course1 goes right on 
laying  eggs1 but as the colony is      
rapidly reduced in size the amount of   
brood  decreases4 ,as brood emerges1 the
 younger bees leave the cavity and join 
the bees in the hive1 until finally the 
queen is left practically alone4  ,a new
 queen should be given to the bees in   
the hive as soon as possible1  and in a 
short time they are fully established in
 their new quarters4  ,after about four 
weeks1 when all or nearly all of the    
brood in the cavity  has emerged1 the   
bee escape should be removed and as     
large a hole made  at the entrance of   
the cavity as possible4 ,the bees will  
then go in and  rob out the honey and   
carry it to the hive1 leaving only empty
 combs4 ,the  empty combs will probably 
do no damage1 as moths usually soon     
destroy  them and they may be left in   

the cavity and the old entrance         
carefully  closed to prevent another    
swarm from taking up quarters there4    
,in transferring bees from a hollow tree
 the method will depend on the          
accessibility of the cavity4 ,usually it
 is difficult to drum out the bees  and 
the combs can be cut out after subduing 
the colony with smoke4    ,,uniting4    
,frequently colonies become queenless   
when it is not practicable to give  them
 a new queen1 and the best practice     
under such conditions is to unite  the  
queenless bees to a normal colony4 ,if  
any colonies are weak in the  fall1 even
 if they have a queen1 safe wintering is
 better insured if two  or more weak    
colonies are united1 keeping the best   
queen4 ,under various  other conditions 
which may arise the bee keeper may find 
it desirable  to unite bees from        
different colonies4 ,some fundamental   
facts in bee  behavior must be          
thoroughly understood to make this a    
success4    ,every colony of bees has a 

distinctive colony odor and by this     
means bees  recognize the entering of   
their hive by bees from other colonies  
and  usually resent it4 ,if1 however1 a 
bee comes heavily laden from the field  
and flies directly into the wrong hive  
without hesitation it is rarely         
molested4 ,in uniting colonies1 the     
separate colony odors must be hidden1   
and this is done by smoking each colony 
vigorously4 ,it may at times be         
desirable to use tobacco smoke1 which   
not only covers the colony odor but     
stupefies the bees somewhat4 ,care      
should be taken not to use too much     
tobacco1 as it will completely overcome 
the bees4 ,the queen to be saved  should
 be caged for a day or two to prevent   
the strange bees from killing  her in   
the first excitement4    ,another fact  
which must be considered is that the    
bees of a colony  carefully mark the    
location of their own hive and remember 
that location  for some time after they 
are removed4 ,if1 therefore1 two        

colonies in  the apiary which are not   
close together are to be united1 they   
should  be moved gradually nearer1 not  
more than a foot at a time1 until they  
are side by side1 so that the bees will 
not return to their original  locations 
and be lost4 ,as the hives are moved    
gradually the slight  changes are noted 
and no such loss occurs4 ,as a further  
precaution1 a  board should be placed in
 front of the entrance in a slanting    
position1  or brush and weeds may be    
thrown down so that when the bees fly   
out they  recognize the fact that there 
has been a change and accustom          
themselves  to the new place4 ,if       
uniting can be done during a honey flow1
 there is  less danger of loss of bees  
by fighting1 or if done in cool weather1
 when  the bees are not actively rearing
 brood1 the colony odors are diminished 
and the danger is reduced4    ,it is an 
easy matter to unite two or more weak   
swarms to make one strong  one1 for     
during swarming the bees have lost their

 memory of the old  location1 are full  
of honey1 and are easily placed wherever
 the bee  keeper wishes4 ,they may      
simply be thrown together in front of a 
hive4  ,swarms may also be given to a   
newly established colony with little    
difficulty4    ,,preventing ,,robbing   
,,in ,,the ,,apiary4    ,when there is  
no honey flow bees are inclined to rob  
other colonies1 and  every precaution   
must be taken to prevent this4 ,feeding 
often attracts  other bees1 and1 if     
there are indications of robbing1 the   
sirup or honey  should be given late in 
the day4 ,as soon as robbing begins1    
manipulation  of colonies should be     
discontinued1 the hives closed1 and1 if 
necessary1  the entrances contracted as 
far as the weather will permit4 ,if     
brush  is thrown in front of the        
entrance1 robbers are less likely to    
attempt  entering4 ,at all times honey  
which has been removed from the hives   
should  be kept where no bees can get at
 it1 so as not to incite robbing4       

,,feeding4    ,during spring            
manipulations1 in preparing bees for    
winter1 and at other  times it may be   
necessary to feed bees for stimulation  
or to provide  stores4 ,honey from an   
unknown source should never be used1 for
 fear  of introducing disease1 and sirup
 made of granulated sugar is cheapest   
and best for this purpose4 ,the cheaper 
grades of sugar or molasses  should     
never be used for winter stores4 ,the   
proportion of sugar to water  depends on
 the season and the purpose of the      
feeding4 ,for stimulation  a proportion 
of one-fourth to one-third sugar by     
volume is enough1 and  for fall feeding1
 especially if rather late1 a solution  
containing as  much sugar as it will    
hold when cold is best4 ,there seems to 
be little  advantage in boiling the     
sirup4 ,tartaric acid in small quantity 
may be  added for the purpose of        
changing part of the cane sugar to      
invert sugar1  thus retarding           
granulation4 ,the medication of sirup as

 a preventive or  cure of brood disease 
is often practiced1 but it has not been 
shown that  such a procedure is of any  
value4 ,if honey is fed1 it should be   
diluted  somewhat1 the amount of        
dilution depending on the season4 ,if   
robbing is  likely to occur1 feeding    
should be done in the evening4          
,numerous feeders are on the market1    
adapted for different purposes and      
methods of manipulation 7figs4 #ag1 #ah1
 #ai74 ,a simple feeder can be made  of 
a tin pan filled with excelsior or      
shavings 7fig4 #bj74 ,this is filled    
with sirup and placed on top of the     
frames in a super or hive body4 ,it is  
advisable to lean pieces of wood on the 
pan as runways for the bees1 and  to    
attract them first to the sirup1 either 
by mixing in a little honey or  by      
spilling a little sirup over the frames 
and sticks4    ,it may be stated        
positively that it does not pay         
financially1 or in any  other way1 to   
feed sugar sirup to be stored in        

sections and sold as comb  honey4 ,of   
course1 such things have been tried1 but
 the consumption of  sugar during the   
storing makes the cost greater than the 
value of pure  floral honey4            
,,spring ,,management4    ,the condition
 of a colony of bees in the early spring
 depends largely  upon the care given   
the bees the preceding autumn and in the
 method of  wintering4 ,if the colony   
has wintered well and has a good        
prolific queen1  preferably young1 the  
chances are that it will become strong  
in time to  store a good surplus when   
the honey flow comes4    ,the bees which
 come through the winter1 reared the    
previous autumn1  are old and incapable 
of much work4 ,as the season opens they 
go out to  collect the early nectar and 
pollen1 and also care for the brood4    
,the  amount of brood is at first small1
 and as the new workers emerge they     
assist in the brood rearing so that the 
extent of the brood can be  gradually   
increased until it reaches its maximum  

about the beginning  of the summer4 ,the
 old bees die off rapidly4 ,if brood    
rearing does not  continue late in the  
fall1 so that the colony goes into      
winter with a  large percentage of young
 bees1 the old bees may die off in the  
spring  faster than they are replaced by
 emerging brood4 ,this is known as      
spring  dwindling4 ,a preventive remedy 
for this may be applied by feeding1 if  
necessary1 the autumn before1 or keeping
 up brood rearing as late as  possible  
by some other means4    ,illustration3  
,fig4 #ag4--;,division-board feeder to  
be hung in  hive in place of frame4     
,if spring dwindling begins1 however1 it
 can be diminished somewhat by  keeping 
the colony warm and by stimulative      
feeding1 so that all the  energy of the 
old bees may be put to the best         
advantage in rearing brood  to replace  
those drying off4 ,the size of the brood
 chamber can also be  reduced to        
conserve heat4    ,illustration3 ,fig4  
#ah4--;,feeder set in collar under hive 

body4    ,it sometimes happens that when
 a hive is examined in the spring the   
hive body and combs are spotted with    
brownish yellow excrement4 ,this is  an 
evidence of what is commonly called     
dysentery4 ,the cause of this  trouble  
is long-continued confinement with a    
poor quality of honey for  food4        
,honeydew honey and some of the inferior
 floral honeys contain a  relatively    
large percentage of material which bees 
can not digest1 and1  if they are not   
able to fly for some time1 the          
intestines become clogged  with fcal    
matter and a diseased condition results4
 ,worker bees never  normally deposit   
their fces in the hive4 ,the obvious    
preventive for this  is to provide the  
colony with good honey or sugar sirup   
the previous  fall4 ,dysentery          
frequently entirely destroys colonies1  
but if the bees  can pull through until 
warm days permit a cleansing flight they
 recover  promptly4    ,illustration3   
,fig4 #ai4--,pepper-box feeder for use  

on top of  frames4    ,bees should not  
be handled in the early spring any more 
than necessary1  for to open a hive in  
cool weather wastes heat and may even   
kill the  brood by chilling4 ,the hive  
should be kept as warm as possible in   
early  spring as an aid to brood        
rearing4 ,it is a good practice to wrap 
hives  in black tar paper in the spring1
 not only that it may aid in conserving 
the heat of the colony1 but in holding  
the suns heat rays as a help to  the    
warmth of the hive4 ,this wrapping      
should be put on as soon as an  early   
examination has shown the colony to be  
in good condition1 and there  need be no
 hurry in taking it off4 ,a black       
wrapping during the winter is  not      
desirable1 as it might induce brood     
rearing too early and waste the         
strength of the bees4    ,as a further  
stimulus to brood rearing1 stimulative  
feeding of sugar  sirup in early spring 
may be practiced4 ,this produces much   
the same  effect as a light honey flow  

does and the results are often good4    
,others  prefer to give the bees such a 
large supply of stores in the fall that 
when spring comes they will have an     
abundance for brood rearing1 and it     
will not be necessary to disturb them in
 cool weather4 ,both ideas are  good1   
but judicious stimulative feeding       
usually more than pays for the  labor4  
,colonies should be fed late in the day1
 so that the bees will not  fly as a    
result of it1 and so that robbing will  
not be started4 ,when the  weather is   
warmer and more settled the brood       
cluster may be artificially  enlarged by
 spreading the frames so as to insert an
 empty comb in the  middle4 ,the bees   
will attempt to cover all the brood that
 they already  had1 and the queen will  
at once begin laying in the newly       
inserted comb1  thus making a great     
increase in the brood4 ,this practice is
 desirable  when carefully done1 but may
 lead to serious results if too much new
  brood is produced4 ,a beginner had    

better leave the quantity of brood to   
the bees4    ,illustration3 ,fig4       
#bj4--,pan in super arranged for        
feeding4    ,it is desirable early in   
the season1 before any preparations are 
made for  swarming1 to go through the   
apiary and clip one wing of each queen  
7see  p4 #cj74 ,this should be done     
before the hive becomes too populous4   
,it is  perhaps best to clip queens as  
they are introduced1 but some colonies  
may rear new ones without the knowledge 
of the owner1 and a spring  examination 
will insure no escaping swarms4 ,the    
beginner should perhaps  be warned not  
to clip the wings of a virgin queen4    
,queens sometimes die during the winter 
and early spring1 and since there  is no
 brood from which the bees can replace  
them1 the queenless colonies  are       
hopelessly queenless4 ,such colonies are
 usually restless and are  not active in
 pollen gathering4 ,if1 on opening a    
colony1 it is found  to be without a    
queen and reduced in numbers1 it should 

be united with  another colony by       
smoking both vigorously and caging the  
queen in the  queen-right colony for a  
day or two to prevent her being killed4 
,a frame  or two of brood may be added  
to a queenless colony1 not only to      
increase  its strength1 but to provide  
young brood from which they can rear a  
queen  ,bee keepers in the ,north can   
frequently buy queens from southern     
breeders  early in the spring and       
naturally this is better than leaving   
the colony  without a queen until the   
bees can rear one1 as it is important   
that  there be no stoppage in brood     
rearing at this season4      ,,swarm    
,,management ,,and ,,increase4    ,the  
excessive rearing of brood at the wrong 
season or increase in the  number of    
colonies greatly reduces the surplus    
honey crop by consumption4  ,the ideal  
to which all progressive bee keepers    
work1 when operating  simply for honey1 
is to stimulate brood rearing to prepare
 bees for  gathering1 to retard breeding

 when it is less desirable1 and to      
prevent  swarming4 ,formerly the measure
 of success in beekeeping was the amount
  of increase by swarming1 but this is  
now recognized as being quite the       
contrary of success4    ,the stimulation
 of brood rearing in the spring1        
however1 makes it more  likely that     
swarming will occur2 so that the        
operator must counteract the  tendency  
to swarm4 ,this is especially true in   
comb honey production4 ,very  few       
succeed in entirely preventing swarming1
 but by various methods the  situation  
can be largely controlled4    ,when a   
swarm issues1 it usually first settles  
on a limb of a tree or bush  near the   
apiary4 ,it was formerly common to make 
a noise by beating pans  or ringing     
bells in the belief that this causes the
 swarm to settle4  ,there is no         
foundation for such action on the part  
of the bee keeper4 ,if  the bees alight 
on a small limb that can be spared it   
may simply be  sawed off and the bees   

carried to the hive and thrown on a     
sheet or hive  cover in front of the    
entrance4 ,if the limb can not be cut1  
the swarm can  be shaken off into a box 
or basket on a pole and hived4 ,if the  
bees light  on the trunk of a tree or in
 some inaccessible place they can first 
be  attracted away by a comb1 preferably
 containing unsealed brood4 ,in these   
manipulations it is not necessary to get
 all the bees1 but if the queen  is not 
with those which are put into the hive  
the bees will go into the  air again and
 join the cluster4    ,if a queen is    
clipped as recommended under ,spring    
management 7p4 #bi7  the swarm will     
issue just the same1 but the queen1 not 
being able to fly1  will simply wander  
about on the ground in front of the     
hive1 where she  can be caught and      
caged4 ,the parent colony can then be   
removed to a new  stand and a new hive  
put in its place4 ,the bees will soon   
return and the  queen can be freed among
 them as they enter4 ,the field bees on 

returning  will enter the new hive with 
the swarm1 thus decreasing still more   
the  parent colony and making a second  
swarm less probable4 ,to make sure of   
this1 however1 all queen cells except   
one good one can be removed soon  after 
the swarm issues4 ,another method of    
preventing second swarms is  to set the 
old hive beside the swarm and in a week 
move the old hive to  another place4    
,the field bees of the parent colony    
then join the swarm  and the parent     
colony is so much reduced that a second 
swarm does not  issue4    ,to hold a    
swarm it is desirable to put one frame  
containing healthy  unsealed brood in   
the new hive4 ,the other frames may     
contain full sheets  or starters of     
foundation4 ,usually comb honey supers  
or surplus bodies  for extracting frames
 will have been put on before swarming  
occurs4 ,these  are given to the swarm  
on the old stand and separated from the 
brood  chamber by queen-excluding       
perforated zinc4 ,in three or four days 

the  perforated zinc may be removed if  
desired4    ,when clipping the queen's  
wing is not practiced1 swarms may be    
prevented  from leaving by the use of   
queen traps of perforated zinc 7fig4    
#f74  ,these allow the workers to pass  
out1 but not drones or queens1 which1 on
  leaving the entrance1 pass up to an   
upper compartment from which they  can  
not return4 ,these are also used for    
keeping undesirable drones from         
escaping1 and the drones die of         
starvation4 ,when a swarm issues from a 
hive provided with a queen trap1 the    
queen goes to the upper compartment  and
 remains there until released by the bee
 keeper4 ,the workers soon  return to   
the hive4 ,when the operator discovers  
the queen outside1 the  colony may be   
artificially swarmed to prevent another 
attempt at natural  swarming4 ,a queen  
trap should not be kept on the hive all 
the time for  fear the old queen may be 
superseded and the young queen prevented
 from  flying out to mate4              

,,artificial ,,swarming    ,if increase 
is desired1 it is better to practice    
some method of  artificial swarming and 
to forestall natural swarming rather    
than be  compelled to await the whims of
 the colonies4 ,the situation should be 
under the control of the bee keeper as  
much as possible4 ,the bees1 combs1  and
 brood may be divided into two nearly   
equal parts and a queen provided  for   
the queenless portion2 or small         
colonies1 called nuclei1 may be made    
from the parent colony1 so reducing its 
strength that swarming is not           
attempted4 ,these plans are not as      
satisfactory as shaken swarms1 since    
divided colonies lack the vigor of      
swarms4    ,a good method of            
artificially swarming a colony is to    
shake most of the  bees from the combs  
into another hive on the old stand with 
starters  7narrow strips7 of foundation4
 ,the hive containing the brood with    
some  bees still adhering is then moved 
to a new location4 ,if receptacles for  

surplus honey have been put on          
previously1 as they generally should be1
  they should now be put over the       
artificial swarm separated from the     
brood  compartment by perforated zinc4  
,this method of artificially swarming   
7usually called by bee keepers  shook   
swarming7 should not be practiced too   
early1 since natural  swarming may take 
place later4 ,the colony should first   
have begun its  preparations for        
swarming4 ,the method is particularly   
useful in comb  honey production4 ,the  
bees may be prevented from leaving the  
hive by  the use of a drone trap 7fig4  
#f7 or by putting in one frame          
containing  unsealed brood4 ,some bee   
keepers prefer using full sheets of     
foundation  or even drawn combs for the 
artificial swarm1 but narrow strips of  
foundation have some advantages4 ,by    
using narrow strips the queen has no    
cells in which to lay eggs for a time1  
thus reducing brood rearing1 but1  since
 by the time artificial swarming is     

practiced the profitable brood  rearing 
is usually over1 this is no loss but    
rather a gain4 ,there are  also in the  
brood compartment no cells in which the 
gathering workers  can deposit fresh    
honey1 and they consequently put it in  
the supers4  ,gradually the combs below 
are built out and brood rearing is      
increased4  ,later the colony is allowed
 to put honey in the brood combs for its
  winter supply4 ,if no increase is     
desired1 the bees which emerge from the 
removed brood combs may later be united 
with the artificial swarm and by  that  
time there will usually be little danger
 of natural swarming4    ,artificial    
swarming can readily be combined with   
the shaking treatment  for bee diseases1
 thus accomplishing two objects with one
 manipulation4  ,if disease is present  
in the parent colony1 only strips of    
foundation  should be used and the      
colony should be confined to the hive   
until a  queen and drone trap and not   
with a frame of brood4    ,,prevention  

,,of ,,swarming4    ,unless increase is 
particularly desired1 both natural and  
artificial  swarming should be done away
 with as far as possible1 so that the   
energy  of the bees shall go into the   
gathering of honey4 ,since crowded and  
overheated hives are particularly       
conducive to swarming1 this tendency    
may be largely overcome by giving plenty
 of ventilation and additional  room in 
the hive4 ,shade is also a good         
preventive of swarming4 ,extra  space in
 the hive may be furnished by adding    
more hive bodies and frames  or by      
frequent extracting1 so that there may  
be plenty of room for brood  rearing and
 storage at all times4 ,these           
manipulations are1 of course1           
particularly applicable to extracted    
honey production4    ,to curb the       
swarming impulse frequent examinations  
of the colonies  7about every week or   
#aj days during the swarming season7 for
 the purpose  of cutting out queen cells
 is a help1 but this requires           

considerable  work1 and since some cells
 may be overlooked1 and particularly    
since  it frequently fails in spite of  
the greatest care1 it is not usually    
practiced4 ,requeening with young queens
 early in the season1 when  possible1   
generally prevents swarming4            
,swarming is largely due to crowded     
brood chambers1 and since eggs laid     
immediately before and during the honey 
flow do not produce gatherers1  several 
methods have been tried of reducing the 
brood4 ,the queen may  either be        
entirely removed or be caged in the hive
 to prevent her from  laying4 ,in either
 event the bees will usually build queen
 cells to  replace her1 and these must  
be kept cut out4 ,these plans would     
answer the  purpose very well were it   
not for the fact that queenless colonies
 often  do not work vigorously4 ,under  
most circumstances these methods can not
  be recommended4 ,a better method is to
 remove brood about swarming time  and  
thus reduce the amount4 ,there are      

generally colonies in the apiary to     
which frames of brood can be given to   
advantage4    ,in addition to these     
methods various nonswarming devices have
 been  invented1 and later a nonswarming
 hive so constructed that there is no   
opportunity for the bees to form a dense
 cluster4 ,the breeding of bees by      
selecting colonies with less tendency to
 swarm has been suggested4    ,on the   
whole1 the best methods are the giving  
of plenty of room1 shade1  and          
ventilation to colonies run for         
extracted honey2 and ventilation1       
shade1 and artificial swarming of       
colonies run for comb honey4 ,frequent  
requeening 7about once in two years7 is 
desirable for other reasons1  and       
requeening before swarming time helps in
 the solution of that  difficulty1      
,,preparation ,,for ,,the ,,harvest4    
,an essential in honey production is to 
have the hive overflowing with  bees at 
the beginning of the honey flow1 so that
 the field force will be  large enough  

to gather more honey than the bees need 
for their own use4  ,to accomplish this1
 the bee keeper must see to it that     
brood rearing is  heavy some time before
 the harvest1 and he must know          
accurately when the  honey flows come1  
so that he may time his manipulations   
properly4 ,brood  rearing during the    
honey flow usually produces bees which  
consume stores1  while brood reared     
before the flow furnishes the surplus   
gatherers4 ,the  best methods of        
procedure may be illustrated by giving  
as an example the  conditions in the    
white clover region4    ,in the spring  
the bees gather pollen and nectar from  
various early  flowers1 and often a     
considerable quantity from fruit bloom  
and  dandelions4 ,during this time brood
 rearing is stimulated by the new       
honey1 but afterwards there is usually a
 period of drought when brood  rearing  
is normally diminished or not still more
 increased as it should  be4 ,this      
condition continues until the white     

clover flow comes on1  usually with a   
rush1 when brood rearing is again       
augmented4 ,if such a  condition exists1
 the bee keeper should keep brood       
rearing at a maximum  by stimulative    
feeding during the drought4 ,when white 
clover comes in  bloom he may even find 
it desirable to prevent brood rearing to
 turn the  attention of his bees to     
gathering4    ,a worker bee emerges from
 its cell #ba days after the egg is     
laid1 and it  usually begins field work 
in from #ad to #ag days later4 ,it is   
evident1  therefore1 that an egg must be
 laid five weeks before the honey flow  
to  produce a gatherer4 ,since the flow 
continues for some time and since bees  
often go to the field earlier than #ad  
days1 egg laying should be pushed  up to
 within two or three weeks of the       
opening of the honey flow4 ,in  addition
 to stimulative feeding1 the care of the
 colony described under  the heading of 
,spring management 7p4 #bf7 will        
increase brood production4      ,,the   

,,production ,,of ,,honey4    ,the      
obtaining of honey from bees is         
generally the primary object of their   
culture4 ,bees gather nectar to make    
into honey for their own use as  food1  
but generally store more than they need1
 and this surplus the bee  keeper takes 
away4 ,by managing colonies early in the
 spring as previously  described the    
surplus may be considerably increased4  
,the secret of  maximum crops is to     
,keep all colonies strong4    ,honey is 
gathered in the form of nectar secreted 
by various flowers1 is  transformed by  
the bees1 and stored in the comb4 ,bees 
also often gather  a sweet liquid called
 honeydew1 produced by various scale    
insects and  plant-lice1 but the        
honeydew honey made from it is quite    
unlike floral  honey in flavor and      
composition and should not be sold for  
honey4 ,it is  usually unpalatable and  
should never be used as winter food for 
bees1  since it usually causes dysentery
 7p4 #dj74 ,when nectar or honeydew has 

been thickened by evaporation and       
otherwise changed1 the honey is sealed  
in the cells with cappings of beeswax4  
,it is not profitable to cultivate any  
plant solely for the nectar which  it   
will produce1 but various plants1 such  
as clovers1 alfalfa1 and  buckwheat1 are
 valuable for other purposes and are at 
the same time  excellent honey plants2  
their cultivation is therefore a benefit
 to the  bee keeper4 ,it is often       
profitable to sow some plant on waste   
land2 sweet  clovers are often used in  
this way4 ,the majority of              
honey-producing  plants are wild1 and   
the bee keeper must largely accept the  
locality  as he finds it and manage his 
apiary so as to get the largest possible
  amount of the available nectar4 ,since
 bees often fly as far as #b or #c      
miles to obtain nectar1 it is obvious   
that the bee keeper can rarely          
influence the nectar supply appreciably4
 ,before deciding what kind of  honey to
 produce the bee keeper should have a   

clear knowledge of the  honey resources 
of his locality and of the demands of   
the market in which  he will sell his   
crop4 ,if the bulk of the honey is dark1
 or if the main  honey flows are slow   
and protracted1 it will not pay to      
produce comb  honey1 since the          
production of fancy comb honey depends  
on a rapid flow4  ,the best localities  
for comb honey production are in the    
northern part  of the ,united ,states   
east of the ,mississippi ,river1 where  
white clover  is a rapid and abundant   
yielder4 ,other parts of the ,united    
,states where  similar conditions of    
rapidity of flow exist are also good4   
,unless these  favorable conditions are 
present it is better to produce         
extracted honev4    ,illustration3 ,fig4
 #ba4--,knives for uncapping honey4     
,,extracted ,,honey4#a    #a ,for       
farther discussion of the production and
 care of extracted honey1  see ,bulletin
 #ge1 ,part ,i1 ,bureau of ,entomology4 
,extracted honey is honey which has been

 removed by means of centrifugal  force 
from the combs in which the bees stored 
it4 ,while it is possible  to adulterate
 extracted honey by the addition of     
cheap sirups1 this is  rarely done1     
perhaps largely on account of the       
possibility of detection4  ,it may be   
said to the credit of bee keepers as a  
class that they have  always opposed    
adulteration of honey4  ,in providing   
combs for the storage of honey to be    
extracted the usual  practice is to add 
to the top of the brood chamber one or  
more hive  bodies just like the one in  
which brood is reared1 and fill these   
with  frames4 ,if preferred1 shallower  
frames with bodies of proper size may   
be used1 but most honey extractors are  
made for full-size frames4 ,the  surplus
 bodies should be put on in plenty of   
time to prevent the crowding  of the    
brood chamber1 and also to act as a     
preventive of swarming4    ,honey for   
extracting should not be removed until  
it is well ripened and  a large         

percentage of it capped4 ,it is best1   
however1 to remove the crop  from each  
honey flow before another heavy         
producing plant comes into  bloom1 so   
that the different grades of honey may  
be kept separate4 ,it  is better to     
extract while honey is still coming in1 
so that the bees  will not be apt to    
rob4 ,the extracting should be done in a
 building1  preferably one provided with
 wire-cloth at the windows 7p4 #i74     
,illustration3 ,fig4 #bb4--;,honey      
extractor4    ,the frames containing    
honey to be extracted are removed from  
the hive1  the cappings cut off with a  
sharp1 warm knife 7fig4 #ba7 made       
specially  for this purpose1 and the    
frames are then put into the baskets of 
the  honey extractor 7fig4 #bb7 4 ,by   
revolving these rapidly the honey is    
thrown out of one side4 ,the basket is  
then reversed and the honey from  the   
other side is removed4 ,the combs can   
then be returned to the bees to  be     
refilled1 or if the honey flow is over1 

they can be returned to the  bees to be 
cleaned and then removed and stored     
until needed again4 ,this  method is    
much to be preferred to mashing the comb
 and straining out the  honey1 as was   
formerly done4    ,in large apiaries    
special boxes to receive cappings1      
capping melters to  render the cappings 
directly into wax1 and power-driven     
extractors are  often used4 ,these will 
be found listed in supply catalogues4   
,the extracted honey is then strained   
and run into vessels4 ,it is  advisable 
not to put it in bottles at once1 but to
 let it settle in open  vessels for a   
time1 so that it can be skimmed4 ,most  
honeys will granulate  and become quite 
hard if exposed to changes of           
temperature1 and to  liquefy granulated 
extracted honey it should be heated in a
 water bath4  ,never heat honey directly
 over a stove or flame1 as the flavor is
 thereby  injured4 ,the honey should    
never be heated higher than #afj ,f4    
unless it  is necessary to sterilize it 

because of contamination by disease4    
,extracted honey is put up in bottles or
 small tin cans for the retail  trade1  
and in #e-;gallon square tin cans or    
barrels for the wholesale  market4      
,great care must be exercised if barrels
 are used1 as honey will  absorb        
moisture from the wood1 if any is       
present1 and cause leakage4 ,the  tin   
package is much to be preferred in most 
cases4 ,in bottling honey  for retail   
trade1 it will well repay the bee keeper
 or bottler to go to  considerable      
expense and trouble to make an          
attractive package1 as the  increased   
price received will more than compensate
 for the increased  labor and expense4  
,honey should be heated to #afj ,f4 and 
kept there for a  time before bottling1 
and the bottle should be filled as full 
as possible  and sealed hermetically4   
,granulated honey4--,some honeys1 such  
as alfalfa1 granulate quickly after     
being extracted4 ,such honeys are       
sometimes allowed to granulate in large 

cans and the semisolid mass is then cut 
into #a-pound bricks like a butter      
print and wrapped in paraffin paper4 ,it
 may be put into paraffined  receptacles
 before granulation1 if desired4 ,there 
is always a ready  market for granulated
 honey1 since many people prefer it to  
the liquid  honey4    ,,comb ,,honey4   
,comb honey is honey as stored in the   
comb by the bees1 the size and  shape   
being determined by the small wooden    
sections provided by the bee  keeper4   
,instead of having comb in large frames 
in which to store surplus  honey1 the   
bees are compelled to build comb in the 
sections and to  store honey there 7fig4
 #b74 ,a full section weighs about #a   
pound2 larger  ones are rarely used4 ,by
 the use of modern sections and         
foundation the  comb honey now produced 
is a truly beautiful1 very uniform      
product1 so  uniform in fact that it is 
often charged that it must be           
artificially  manufactured4 ,the        
purchaser of a section of comb honey may

 be absolutely  certain1 however1 that  
he is obtaining a product of the bees1  
for never  has anyone been able to      
imitate the bees' work successfully4 ,to
 show  their confidence in the purity of
 comb honey1 the ,national ,bee         
,keepers'  ,association offers #a1jjj   
for a single pound of artificial comb   
filled  with an artificially prepared   
sirup1 which is at all difficult of     
detection4    ,there are several        
different styles of sections now in use1
 the usual  sizes being #d-a_/d inches  
square and #d by #e inches4 ,there are  
also two  methods of spacing1 so that   
there will be room for the passage of   
bees  from the brood chamber into the   
sections and from one super of sections 
to another4 ,this is done either by     
cutting bee ways in the sections and    
using plain flat separators or by using 
no bee-way or plain sections  and using 
fences--separators with cleats fastened 
on each side1 to  provide the bee space4
 ,to describe all the different supers  

or bodies  for holding sections would be
 impossible in a bulletin of this size1 
and the reader must be referred to      
catalogues of dealers in beekeeping     
supplies4 ,instead of using regular comb
 honey supers1 some bee keepers  use    
wide frames to hold two tiers of        
sections4 ,it is better1 however1 to    
have the supers smaller1 so that the    
bees may be crowded more to produce     
full sections4 ,to overcome this        
difficulty1 shallow wide frames holding 
one tier of sections may be used4 ,the  
majority of bee keepers find it         
advisable to use special comb honey     
supers4    ,in producing comb honey it  
is even more necessary to know the      
plants  which produce surplus honey1 and
 just when they come in bloom1 than it  
is in extracted honey production4 ,the  
colony should be so manipulated  that   
the maximum field force is ready for the
 beginning of the flow4 ,this  requires 
care in spring management1 and1 above   
all1 the prevention of  swarming4       

,supers should be put on just before the
 heavy flow begins4 ,a  good indication 
of the need of supers is the whitening  
of the brood combs  at the top4 ,if the 
bees are in two hive bodies they should 
generally be  reduced to one1 and the   
frames should be filled with brood and  
honey so  that as the new crop comes in 
the bees will carry it immediately to   
the  sections above4 ,if large hives are
 used for the brood chamber it is often 
advisable to remove some of the frames  
and use a division board to crowd  the  
bees above4 ,to prevent the queen from  
going into the sections to lay1  a sheet
 of perforated zinc 7fig4 #bc7 may be   
put between the brood chamber  and the  
super 7fig4 #b74    ,it is often        
difficult to get bees to begin work in  
the small sections1  but this should be 
brought about as soon as possible to    
prevent loss of  honey4 ,if there are at
 hand some sections which have been     
partly drawn  the previous year1 these  
may be put in the super with the new    

sections as  bait4 ,another good plan is
 to put a shallow extracting frame on   
either  side of the sections4 ,if a few 
colonies in the apiary that are strong  
enough to go above refuse to do so1 lift
 supers from some colonies that  have   
started to work above and give them to  
the slow colonies4 ,the super  should   
generally be shaded somewhat to keep it 
from getting too hot4  ,artificial      
swarming will quickly force bees into   
the supers4    ,to produce the finest   
quality of comb honey full sheets of    
foundation  should be used in the       
sections4 ,some bee keepers use nearly a
 full sheet  hung from the top of the   
section and a narrow bottom starter4    
,the use of  foundation of worker-cell  
size is much preferred4    ,when one    
super becomes half full or more and     
there are indications that  there will  
be honey enough to fill others1 the     
first one should be  raised and an empty
 one put on the hive under it4 ,this    
tiering up can  be continued as long as 

necessary1 but it is advisable to remove
 filled  sections as soon as possible   
after they are nicely capped1 for they  
soon become discolored and less         
attractive4 ,honey removed immediately  
after capping finds a better market1 but
 if left on the hive even until  the end
 of the summer the quality of the honey 
is improved4 ,a careful  watch must be  
kept on the honey flow1 so as to give   
the bees only enough  sections to store 
the crop4 ,if this is not done a lot of 
unfinished  sections will be left at the
 end of the flow4 ,honeys from different
  sources should not be mixed in the    
sections1 as it usually gives the comb  
a bad appearance    ,illustration3 ,fig4
 #bc4--,perforated zinc queen excluder4 
,to remove bees from sections1 the super
 may be put over a bee escape so  that  
the bees can pass down but can not      
return1 or the supers may be  removed   
and covered with a wire-cloth-cone bee  
escape4    ,illustration3 ,fig4         
#bd4--,shipping case for comb honey4    

,after sections are removed the wood    
should be scraped free of propolis  7bee
 glue7 and then packed in shipping cases
 7fig4 #bd7 for the market4  ,shipping  
cases to hold #ab1 #bd1 or #dh sections1
 in which the various  styles of        
sections fit exactly1 are manufactured  
by dealers in supplies4  ,in shipping   
these cases1 several of them should be  
put in a box or crate  packed in straw  
and paper and handles provided to reduce
 the chances of  breakage4 ,when loaded 
in a freight car the combs should be    
parallel with  the length of the car4   
,in preparing comb honey for market it  
should be carefully graded so that  the 
sections in each shipping case are as   
uniform as possible4 ,nothing  will more
 likely cause wholesale purchasers to   
cut the price than to  find the first   
row of sections in a case fancy and     
those behind of  inferior grade4        
,grading rules have been adopted by     
various bee keepers'  associations or   
drawn up by honey dealers4 ,the         

following sets of rules  are in general 
use3      ,eastern ,grading ,rules for  
,comb ,honey4    ,fancy4--,all sections 
-well filled2 combs straight2 firmly    
attached to  all four sides2 the combs  
unsoiled by travel1 stain1 or otherwise2
 all  the cells sealed except an        
occasional one2 the outside surface of  
the  wood well scraped of propolis4     
,a ,no4 #a4--;,all sections well filled 
except the row of cells next to the     
wood2 combs straight2 one-eighth part of
 comb surface soiled1 or the  entire    
surface slightly soiled2 the outside    
surface of the wood well  scraped of    
propolis4    ,no4 #a4--;,all sections   
well filled except the row of cells next
 to the  wood2 combs comparatively even2
 one-eighth part of comb surface soiled1
  or the entire surface slightly soiled4
    ,no4 #b4--,three-fourths of the     
total surface must be filled and sealed4
    ,no4 #c4--,must weigh at least half 
as much as a full-weight section4    ,in
 addition to this the honey is to be    

classified according to color1  using   
the terms white1 amber1 and dark2 that  
is1 there will be ,fancy  ,white1 ,no4  
#a ,dark1 etc4      ,new ,comb ,honey   
,grading ,rules ,adopted by the         
,colorado ,state ,bee ,keepers'         
,association4    ,no4 #a                
,white4--,sections to be well filled and
 evenly capped1 except the  outside row1
 next to the wood 2 honey white or      
slightly amber1 comb and  cappings      
white1 and not projecting beyond the    
wood2 wood to be well  cleaned2 cases of
 separatored honey to average #ba pounds
 net per case of  #bd sections2 no      
section in this grade to weigh less than
 #ac-a_/b ounces4  ,cases of            
half-separatored honey to average not   
less than #bb pounds net  per case of   
#bd sections4 ,cases of unseparatored   
honey to average not less  than #bc     
pounds net per case of #bd sections4    
,no4 #a ,light ,amber4--,sections to be 
well filled and evenly capped1 except   
the outside row next to the wood2 honey 

white or light amber2 comb and  cappings
 from white to off color1 but not dark2 
comb not projecting  beyond the wood2   
wood to be well cleaned4 ,cases of      
separatored honey to  average #ba pounds
 net per case of #bd sections2 no       
section in this grade  to weigh less    
than #ac-a_/b ounces4 ,cases of         
half-separatored honey to  average not  
less than #bb pounds net per case of #bd
 sections4 ,cases of  unseparatored     
honey to average not less than #bc      
pounds net per case of #bd  sections4   
,no4 #b4--,this includes all white      
honey1 and amber honey not included in  
the above grades2 sections to be fairly 
well filled and capped1 no more  than   
#be uncapped cells1 exclusive of outside
 row1 permitted in this  grade2 wood to 
be well cleaned2 no section in this     
grade to weigh less  than #ab ounces4   
,cases of separatored honey to average  
not less than #ai  pounds net4 ,cases of
 half-separatored honey to average not  
less than  #bj pounds net per case of   

#bd sections4 ,cases of unseparatored   
honey to  average not less than #ba     
pounds net per case of #bd sections4    
,,the ,,production ,,of ,,wax4          
,beeswax1 which is secreted by the bees 
and used by them for building  their    
combs1 is an important commercial       
product4 ,there are times in  almost    
every apiary when there are combs to be 
melted up1 and it pays  to take care of 
even scraps of comb and the cappings    
taken off in  extracting4 ,a common     
method of taking out the wax is to melt 
the combs  in a solar wax extractor4    
,this is perhaps the most feasible      
method where  little wax is produced1   
but considerable wax still remains in   
old brood  combs after such heating4    
,various wax presses are on the market1 
or one  can be made at home4 ,if much   
wax is produced1 the bee keeper should  
make  a careful study of the methods of 
wax extraction1 as there is usually     
much wax wasted even after pressing4    
,,preparations ,,for ,,wintering4       

,after the main honey flow is over the  
management must depend on what may  be  
expected later in the season from minor 
honey flows4 ,if no crop is to  be      
expected1 the colony may well be kept   
only moderately strong1 so that  there  
will not be so many consumers in the    
hive4    ,in localities where winters   
are severe and breeding is suspended for
  several months great care should be   
taken that brood rearing is rather      
active during the late summer1 so that  
the colony may go into winter  with     
plenty of young bees4 ,in case any      
queens show lack of vitality they       
should be replaced early1 so that the   
bees will not become queenless  during  
the winter4    ,the important           
considerations in wintering are plenty  
of young bees1 a  good queen1 plenty of 
stores of good quality1 sound hives1 and
 proper  protection from cold and       
dampness4    ,if1 as cold weather       
approaches1 the bees do not have stores 
enough1 they  must be fed4 ,every colony

 should have from #be to #dj pounds1    
depending on  the length of winter and  
the methods of wintering4 ,it is better 
to have  too much honey than not enough1
 for what is left is good next season4  
,if  feeding is practiced1 honey may be 
used1 but sirup made of granulated      
sugar is just as good and is perfectly  
safe4 ,if honey is purchased for        
feeding1 great care should be taken that
 it comes from a healthy apiary1        
otherwise the apiary may be ruined by   
disease4 ,never feed honey bought on    
the open market4 ,the bees should be    
provided with stores early enough so    
that it will not be necessary to feed or
 to open the colonies after cold        
weather comes on4 ,honeydew honey should
 not be left in the hives1 as it        
produces dysentery4 ,some honeys are    
also not ideal for winter stores4       
,those which show a high percentage of  
gums 7most tree honeys7 are not so      
desirable1 but will usually cause no    
trouble4    ,in wintering out of doors  

the amount of protection depends on the 
severity of the winter4 ,in the ,south  
no packing is necessary1 and even  in   
very cold climates good colonies with   
plenty of stores can often  pass the    
winter with little protection1 but      
packing and protection  make it         
necessary for the bees to generate less 
heat1 and consequently  they consume    
less stores and their vitality is not   
reduced4 ,dampness  is probably harder  
for bees to withstand than cold1 and    
when it is  considered that bees give   
off considerable moisture1 precautions  
should  be taken that as it condenses it
 does not get on the cluster4 ,an       
opening  at the top would allow the     
moisture to pass out1 but it would also 
waste  heat1 so it is better to put a   
mat of burlap or other absorbent        
material  on top of the frames4 ,the    
hive may also be packed in chaff1       
leaves1 or  other similar dry material  
to diminish the loss of heat4 ,some     
hives are  made with double walls1 the  

space being filled with chaff2 these are
  good for outdoor wintering4 ,the hive 
entrance should be lower than any  other
 part of the hive1 so that any condensed
 moisture may run out4 ,the  hives      
should be sound and the covers tight and
 waterproof4    ,entrances should be    
contracted in cold weather not only to  
keep out cold  wind1 but to prevent mice
 from entering4 ,there should always be 
enough  room1 however1 for bees to pass 
in and out if warmer weather permits a  
flight4    ,in the hands of experienced 
bee keepers cellar wintering is very    
successful1 but this method requires    
careful study4 ,the cellar must be  dry 
and so protected that the temperature   
never varies more than from #dj  to #de 
,f42 #dc ,f4 seems to be the optimum    
temperature4 ,the ventilation  must be  
good or the bees become fretful4 ,light 
should not be admitted  to the cellar1  
and consequently some means of indirect 
ventilation is  necessary4    ,cellar   
wintering requires the consumption of   

less honey to maintain the  proper      
temperature in the cluster and is       
therefore economical4 ,bees so  wintered
 do not have an opportunity for a       
cleansing flight1 often for  several    
months1 but the low consumption makes   
this less necessary4 ,some  bee keepers 
advocate carrying the colonies out a few
 times on warm days1  but it is not     
fully established whether this is       
entirely beneficial and it  is usually  
not practiced4    ,the time for putting 
colonies in the cellar is a point of    
dispute1 and  practice in this regard   
varies considerably4 ,they should       
certainly be  put in before the weather 
becomes severe and as soon as they have 
ceased  brood rearing4 ,the time chosen 
may be at night when they are all in the
  hive1 or on some chilly day4    ,the  
hives may be piled one on top of the    
other1 the lower tier raised a  little  
from the floor4 ,the entrances should   
not be contracted unless the  colony is 
comparatively weak4 ,it is usually not  

considered good policy  to close the    
entrances with ordinary wire cloth1 as  
the dead bees which  accumulate more or 
less on the bottom boards may cut off   
ventilation1 and  the entrance should be
 free so that these may be cleaned out4 
,it is1 however1 good policy to cover   
the entrance with wire-cloth having     
three meshes to the inch to keep out    
mice4    ,the time of removing bees from
 the cellar is less easily determined   
than  that of putting them in4 ,the     
colonies may be removed early and       
wrapped in  black tar paper or left     
until the weather is settled4 ,if the   
weather is  very warm and the bees      
become fretful1 the cellar must either  
be cooled  or the bees removed4 ,some   
bee keepers prefer to remove bees at    
night1 so  that they can recover from   
the excitement and fly from the hive    
normally  in the morning4 ,one of the   
chief difficulties is to prevent the    
bees  from getting into the wrong hives 
after their first flights4 ,they often  

drift badly with the wind1 and sometimes
 an outside row will become  abnormally 
strong1 leaving other colonies weak4    
,the night before the bees are removed  
from the cellar it is good practice  to 
leave the cellar doors and windows wide 
open4      ,,diseases ,,and ,,enemies4  
,there are two infectious diseases of   
the brood of bees which cause great     
losses to the beekeeping industry of the
 ,united ,states4 ,these are known  as  
,american foul brood and ,european foul 
brood4 ,both of these diseases  destroy 
colonies by killing the brood1 so that  
there are not enough young  bees        
emerging to take the place of the old   
adult bees as these die from  natural   
causes4 ,the adult bees are not attacked
 by either disease4 ,in the  hands of   
careful bee keepers both diseases may be
 controlled1 and this  requires careful 
study and constant watching4 ,in view of
 the fact that  these diseases are now  
widely distributed throughout the       
,united ,states1  every bee keeper      

should read the available literature on 
the subject1 so  that if disease enters 
his apiary he may be able to recognize  
it before  it gets a start4 ,the        
symptoms and the treatment recommended  
by this  department are given in another
 publication which will be sent free on 
request4#b    #b ,farmers' ,bulletin    
,no4 #ddb4 ,the ,treatment of ,bee      
,diseases4    ,it is difficult for a bee
 keeper to keep his apiary free from    
disease if  others about him have       
diseased colonies which are not properly
 treated4  ,the only way to keep disease
 under control is for the bee keepers in
  the neighborhood to cooperate in doing
 everything possible to stamp out       
disease as soon as it appears in a      
single colony4 ,the progressive bee     
keeper who learns of disease in his     
neighborhood should see to it that  the 
other bee keepers around him are        
supplied with literature describing     
symptoms and treatment1 and should also 
try to induce them to unite in          

eradicating the malady4 ,since it is so 
often impossible to get all of  the bee 
keepers in a community to treat infected
 colonies properly and  promptly1 it is 
desirable that the ,states pass laws    
providing for the  inspection of        
apiaries and granting to the inspector  
the power to compel  negligent bee      
keepers to treat diseased colonies so   
that the property  of others may not be 
endangered and destroyed4 ,this has been
 done in a  number of ,states1 but there
 are still some where the need is great 
and in  which no such provision has been
 made4 ,when no inspection is provided1 
bee keepers should unite in asking for  
such protection1 so that the  danger to 
the industry may be lessened4    ,in    
case there is an inspector for the      
,state or county1 he should be  notified
 as soon as disease is suspected in the 
neighborhood4 ,some bee  keepers        
hesitate to report disease through fear 
that the inspector will  destroy their  
bees or because they feel that it is a  

disgrace to have  disease in the apiary4
 ,there is no disgrace in having        
colonies become  diseased2 the discredit
 is in not treating them promptly4 ,the 
inspectors  are usually1 if not         
universally1 good practical bee keepers 
who from a  wide experience are able to 
tell what should be done in individual  
cases  to give the best results with the
 least cost in material and labor4 ,they
  do not destroy colonies needlessly1   
and1 in fact1 they all advocate and     
teach treatment4    ,the brood diseases 
are frequently introduced into a        
locality by the  shipping in of diseased
 colonies2 or1 more often1 the bees get 
honey  from infected colonies which is  
fed to them1 or which they rob1 from    
discarded honey cans4 ,it is decidedly  
dangerous to purchase honey on the      
market1 with no knowledge of its source1
 to be used in feeding bees4  ,many     
outbreaks of disease can be traced to   
this practice 7see ,feeding1  p4 #bf74  
,it is difficult to prevent bees from   

getting contaminated honey              
accidentally4 ,if colonies are          
purchased1 great care should be taken   
that there is no disease present4       
,whenever possible1 colonies should  be 
purchased near at home1 unless disease  
is already present in the  neighborhood4
    ,there are other diseased conditions
 of the brood1 known to bee keepers  as 
pickle brood1 but these can usually be  
distinguished from the  two diseases    
previously mentioned4 ,the so-called    
pickle brood is  not contagious and no  
treatment is necessary4 ,bees also      
suffer from  dysentery1 which is        
discussed in the earlier part of this   
bulletin1 and  from the so-called       
paralysis1 a disease of adult bees4 ,no 
treatment for  the latter disease can as
 yet be recommended as reliable4 ,the   
sprinkling  of powdered sulphur on the  
top bars of frames or at the entrance is
  sometimes claimed to be effective1 but
 under what circumstances it is         
beneficial is unknown4    ,a number of  

insects1 birds1 and mammals must be     
classed as enemies of  bees1 but of     
these the two wax moths1 and ants1 are  
the only ones of  importance4 ,there are
 two species of moth1 the larger wax    
moth 7,galleria  mellonella ,l471 and   
the lesser wax moth 7,achroia grisella  
,fab471 the  larv of which destroy combs
 by burrowing through them4#c ,reports  
are  frequently received in the         
department that the larv of these moths 
7usually the larger species7 are        
destroying colonies of bees4 ,it may be 
stated positively that moths do not     
destroy strong1 healthy colonies in     
good hives1 and if it is supposed that  
they are causing damage the bee  keeper 
should carefully study his colonies to  
see what other trouble  has weakened    
them enough for the moths to enter4     
,queenlessness1 lack  of stores1 or some
 such trouble may be the condition      
favorable to the  entrance of the pest1 
but a careful examination should be made
 of the  brood to see whether there is  

any evidence of disease4 ,this is the   
most frequent cause of the cases of moth
 depredation reported to this           
department4 ,black bees are less capable
 of driving moth larv out1 but1  even   
with these bees1 strong colonies rarely 
allow them to remain4 ,the  observance  
of the golden rule of beekeeping1 ,keep 
all colonies strong1  will solve the    
moth question unless disease appears4   
#c ,bee keepers refer to these insects  
as moths1 wax moths1 bee  moths1        
millers1 wax worms1 honey moths1 moth   
worms1 moth  millers1 and grubs4 ,the   
last six terms are not correct4    ,moth
 larv often destroy combs stored outside
 the hive4 ,to prevent this  the combs  
may be fumigated with sulphur fumes or  
bisulphid of carbon  in tiers of hives  
or in tight rooms4 ,if bisulphid of     
carbon is used1  great care should be   
taken not to bring it near a flame1 as  
it is highly  inflammable4 ,combs should
 be stored in a dry1 well-ventilated1   
light room4    ,in the warmer parts of  

the country ants are often a serious    
pest4 ,they  may enter the hive for     
protection against changes of           
temperature1 or to  prey on the honey   
stores or the brood4 ,the usual method  
of keeping them  out is to put the hive 
on a stand1 the legs of which rest in   
vessels  containing water or creosote4  
,another method is to wrap a tape soaked
 in  corrosive sublimate around the     
bottom board4      ,,general            
,,information4    ,for the purpose of   
answering numerous questions which are  
asked of this  department the following 
brief topics are included4    ,,breeders
 ,,of ,,queens4    ,there are a large   
number of bee keepers who make a        
business of rearing  queens of good     
stock for sale4 ,the queens are usually 
sent by mail4 ,if  poor stock is all    
that can be obtained locally1 it is     
recommended that  such colonies be      
purchased and the queens removed and    
replaced with  those obtained from a    
good breeder4 ,this department can      

supply names of  breeders1 nearest the  
applicant1 of any race raised in this   
country4    ,,introducing ,,queens4     
,when queens are shipped by mail they   
usually come in cages 7fig4 #be7  which 
can be used for introducing4 ,if the    
colony to receive the new queen  has    
one1 she must be removed and the cage   
inserted between the frames4  ,the small
 hole leading into the candy compartment
 is uncovered1 and the  bees gradually  
eat through and release the queen4 ,if  
queens are reared  at home1 a similar   
cage may be used for introducing4 ,in   
view of the fact  that disease may be   
transmitted in mailing cages1 it is     
always a wise  precaution to remove the 
new queen and destroy the accompanying  
workers  and the cage and its contents4 
,the queen may then be put into a clean 
cage without worker bees1 with candy    
known to be free from contamination     
7made from honey from healthy hives71   
and introduced in the regular way4      
,queens sold by breeders are always     

mated unless otherwise specified1 and   
consequently the colony in which they   
are introduced has no effect on her     
offspring4 ,during the active season the
 bees in the colony are all the         
offspring of the new queen in about nine
 weeks4 ,three weeks is required  for   
the previous brood to emerge 7if the    
colony has not been queenless74  and in 
six weeks after all the old brood       
emerges most of the workers from  it    
will have died4 ,queens are usually sold
 according to the following             
classification3    ,untested queen--one 
that has mated1 but the race of the     
drone is not  known4    ,tested         
queen--one that has mated and has been  
kept only long enough to  show1 from the
 markings of her progeny1 that she mated
 with a drone of  her own race4         
,breeding queen--a tested queen which   
has shown points of superiority1  making
 her desirable for breeding purposes4   
,illustration3 ,fig4 #be4--,queen       
mailing cage4    ,,dealers ,,in ,,bee   

,,keepers' ,,supplies4    ,there are    
several manufacturers of supplies in    
this country who can  furnish almost    
anything desired by the bee keeper4     
,some of them have  agents in various   
parts of the country from whom supplies 
may be  purchased1 thus saving          
considerable in freight4    ,,bee       
,,keepers' ,,associations4    ,there are
 a large number of associations of bee  
keepers in all parts  of the country1   
formed for the betterment of the        
industry1 and a few  associations which 
are organized to aid the members in     
purchasing  supplies and in selling the 
crops4 ,of these the ,national ,bee     
,keepers  ,association is the largest4  
,it helps its members in obtaining their
  legal rights1 and aids in securing    
legislation for the furtherance of  the 
industry4 ,the annual conventions are   
held in different parts of the  country1
 and copies of the proceedings are sent 
to the members4 ,there are  also        
numerous ,state1 county1 and town       

associations1 some of which publish     
proceedings4 ,the names of officers of  
the nearest associations or of the      
,national ,bee ,keepers' ,association   
will be sent from this department on    
request4    ,,laws ,,affecting          
,,beekeeping4    ,disease               
inspection4--,various ,states have      
passed laws providing for the  ,state or
 county inspection of apiaries for      
bee-disease control1 and  every bee     
keeper should get in touch with an      
inspector when disease is  suspected1 if
 one is provided4 ,the inspectors are   
practical bee keepers  who fully        
understand how to control the diseases1 
and are of great help  in giving        
directions in this matter4 ,the name of 
the inspector of any  locality can      
usually be furnished1 and this          
department is glad to aid bee  keepers  
in reaching the proper officers4        
,laws against spraying fruit trees while
 in bloom4--,the spraying of fruit      
trees while in bloom is not now advised 

by economic entomologists1  and to      
prevent the practice some ,states have  
passed laws making it a  misdemeanor4   
,such spraying not only kills off honey 
bees1 causing a loss  to the bee keeper1
 but interferes with the proper         
pollination of the  blossoms and is thus
 a detriment to the fruit grower4 ,bee  
keepers should  do everything in their  
power to prevent the practice4    ,laws 
against the adulteration of honey4--,the
 national food and drugs act  of #aijf1 
and various ,state pure food laws1 are a
 great aid to the bee  keeper in        
preventing the sale of adulterated      
extracted honey as pure  honey4 ,bee    
keepers can often aid in this work by   
reporting to the proper  officials      
infringements of these laws which come  
to their notice4    ,when bees are a    
nuisance4--,some cities have passed     
ordinances prohibiting  the keeping of  
bees in certain areas1 but so far none  
has been able to  enforce them4 ,if bees
 are a nuisance in individual cases1 the

 owner may  be compelled to remove them4
 ,the ,national ,bee ,keepers'          
,association will  help any of its      
members in such cases1 if they are in   
the right1 as well  as in cases where   
bees sting horses4 ,bee keepers should  
be careful not to  locate bees where    
they can cause any trouble of this kind4
    ,,supposed ,,injury ,,of ,,crops    
,,by ,,bees4    ,bee keepers are often  
compelled to combat the idea that bees  
cause  damage to fruit or other crops by
 sucking the nectar from the flower4    
,this is not only untrue1 but in many   
cases the bees are a great aid in  the  
pollination of the flowers1 making a    
good crop possible4 ,a more  frequent   
complaint is that bees puncture fruit   
and suck the juices4 ,bees  never       
puncture sound fruit1 but if the skin is
 broken by some other  means bees will  
often suck the fruit dry4 ,in doing it1 
however1 they are  sucking fruit which  
is already damaged4 ,these and similar  
charges against  the honey bee are      

prompted by a lack of information       
concerning their  activities4 ,bees may1
 of course1 become a nuisance to others 
through  their stinging propensities1   
but bee keepers should not be criticized
 for  things which their bees do not do4
    ,,journals ,,and ,,books ,,on       
,,beekeeping4    ,the progressive bee   
keeper will find it to his profit to    
subscribe for at  least one journal     
devoted to beekeeping4 ,several of these
 are published  in the ,united ,states4 
,the names and addresses of such        
journals may  usually be obtained from a
 subscription agent for periodicals1 or 
from a  supply dealer4    ,it will also 
be advantageous to read and study books 
on beekeeping1 of  which several are    
published in this country4 ,these are   
advertised in  journals devoted to      
beekeeping1 or may usually be obtained  
through the  local book dealer or       
through dealers in bee keepers'         
supplies4    ,,publications ,,of ,,the  
,,department ,,of ,,agriculture ,,on    

,,bee ,,keeping4#d    #d ,list revised  
to ,april #a1 #aiaa4 7,,vii47    ,there 
are several publications of this        
department which are of interest  to bee
 keepers1 and new ones are added from   
time to time in regard to the  different
 lines of investigation4    ,the        
following publications relating to bee  
culture1 prepared in the  ,bureau of    
,entomology1 are for free distribution  
and may be obtained by  addressing the  
,secretary of ,agriculture3#e    #e     
,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4 #ei1 ,bee      
,keeping1 and ,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4  
#cig1 ,bees1 have been superseded by    
,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4 #ddg4          
,circular ,no4 #gi1 ,the ,brood         
,diseases of ,bees1 has been superseded 
by ,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4 #ddb4       
,bulletin ,no4 #a1 ,the ,honey ,bee1 has
 been discontinued4      ,farmers'      
,bulletin ,no4 #ddg1 ,bees4 ,by ,e4 ,f4 
,phillips1 ,ph4 ,d4         #aiaa4 #dh  
pp41 #be figs4          ,a general      
account of the management of bees4      

,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4 #ddb1 ,the     
,treatment of ,bee ,diseases4       ,by 
,e4 ,f4 ,phillips1 ,ph4 ,d4 #aiaa4 #bb  
pp41 #g figs4        ,this publication  
gives briefly the symptoms of the       
various bee      diseases1 with         
directions for treatment4      ,circular
 ,no4 #id1 ,the ,cause of ,american     
,foul ,brood4 ,by ,g4 ,f4 ,white1       
,ph4 ,d4 #aijg4 #d pp4        ,this     
publication contains a brief account of 
the ,investigations which               
demonstrated for the first time the     
cause of one of the brood diseases      
of bees1 ,american foul brood4          
,circular ,no4 #ach4 ,the ,occurrence of
 ,bee ,diseases in the ,united          
,states4 7,preliminary ,report47 ,by ,e4
 ,f4 ,phillips1 ,ph4 ,d4 #aiaa4         
#be pp4        ,a record of the         
localities from which samples of        
diseased brood were      received prior 
to ,march #a1 #aiaa4      ,bulletin ,no4
 #ee1 ,the ,rearing of ,queen ,bees4 ,by
 ,e4 ,f4 ,phillips1       ,ph4 ,d4      

#aije4 #cb pp41 #ag figs4        ,a     
general account of the methods used in  
queen rearing4 ,several methods      are
 given1 so that the bee keeper may      
choose those best suited to his         
individual needs4      ,bulletin ,no4   
#gj1 ,report of the ,meeting of         
,inspectors of ,apiaries1       ,san    
,antonio1 ,tex41 ,november #ab1 #aijf4  
#aijg4 #gi pp41 #a plate4               
,contains a brief history of bee-disease
 investigations1 an account of      the 
relationship of bacteria to bee         
diseases1 and a discussion of           
treatment by various ,inspectors of     
apiaries and other practical bee        
keepers who are familiar with diseases  
of bees4      ,bulletin ,no4 #ge1 ,part 
,i1 ,production and ,care of ,extracted 
,honey4       ,by ,e4 ,f4 ,phillips1    
,ph4 ,d4 ,methods of ,honey ,testing for
 ,bee ,keepers4       ,by ,c4 ,a4       
,browne1 ,ph4 ,d4 #aijg4 #ah pp4        
,the methods of producing extracted     
honey1 with special reference to the    

care of honey after it is taken from the
 bees1 so that its value may      not be
 decreased by improper handling4 ,the   
second portion of the      publication  
gives some simple tests for             
adulteration4      ,bulletin ,no4 #ge1  
,part ,,ii1 ,wax ,moths and ,american   
,foul ,brood4       ,by ,e4 ,f4         
,phillips1 ,ph4 ,d4 #aijg4 ,pp4 #ai-bb1 
#c plates4        ,an account of the    
behavior of the two species of wax moths
 on combs      containing ,american foul
 brood1 showing that moths do not       
destroy the      disease-carrying       
scales4      ,bulletin ,no4 #ge1 ,part  
,,iii1 ,bee ,diseases in ,massachusetts4
       ,by ,burton ,n4 ,gates4 #aijh4   
,pp4 #bc-cb1 map4        ,an account of 
the distribution of the brood diseases  
of bees in the      ,state1 with brief  
directions for controlling them4        
,bulletin ,no4 #ge1 ,part ,,iv4 ,the    
,relation of the ,etiologv 7,cause7 of  
,bee ,diseases to the ,treatment4 ,by   
,g4 ,f4 ,white1 ,ph4 ,d4 #aijh4 ,pp3    

#cc-db4        ,the necessity for a     
knowledge of the cause of bee diseases  
before      rational treatment is       
possible is pointed out4 ,the present   
state of      knowledge of the causes of
 disease is summarized4      ,bulletin  
,no4 #ge1 ,part ,v1 ,a ,brief ,survey of
 ,hawaiian ,bee ,keeping4       ,by ,e4 
,f4 ,phillips1 ,ph4 ,d4 #aiji4 ,pp4     
#dc-eh1 #f plates4        ,an account of
 the beekeeping methods used in a       
tropical country and      a comparison  
with mainland conditions4 ,some new     
manipulations are      recommended4     
,bulletin ,no #ge1 ,part ,,vi1 ,the     
,status of ,apiculture in the ,united   
,states4 ,by ,e4 ,f4 ,phillips1 ,ph4 ,d4
 #aiji4 ,pp4 #ei-hj4        ,a survey of
 present-day beekeeping in the ,united  
,states1 with      suggestions as to the
 work yet to be done before apiculture  
will have      reached its fullest      
development4      ,bulletin ,no4 #ge1   
,part ,,vii1 ,bee ,keeping in           
,massachusetts4       ,by ,burton ,n4   

,gates4 #aiji4 ,pp4 #ha-aji1 #b figs4   
,an account of a detailed study of the  
apicultural conditions in               
,massachusetts4 ,the object of this     
paper is to point out the actual        
conditions and needs of beekeeping in   
,new ,england4      ,bulletin ,no4 #ge1 
,contents and ,index4 #aiaa4 ,pp4       
vii#aaa-abc4      ,bulletin ,no4 #ge1   
,parts ,i-,,vii1 complete with ,contents
 and ,index4 #aiaa4       ,pp4 viii#abc4
      ,bulletin ,no4 #ih4 ,historical   
,notes on the ,causes of ,bee ,diseases4
       ,by ,e4 ,f4 ,phillips1 ,ph4 ,d41 
and ,g4 ,f4 ,white1 ,ph4 ,d41 ,m4 ,d4   
7,in press47        ,a summary of the   
various investigations concerning the   
etiology      7,cause7 of bee diseases4 
,technical ,series1 ,no4 #ad1 ,the      
,bacteria of the ,apiary with ,special  
,reference to ,bee ,diseases4 ,by ,g4   
,f4 ,white1 ,ph4 ,d4 #aijf4 #ej pp4     
,a study of the bacteria present in both
 the healthy and the diseased           
colony1 with special reference to the   

diseases of bees4      ,technical       
,series ,no4 #ah1 ,the ,anatomy of the  
,honey ,bee4       ,by ,r4 ,e4          
,snodgrass4 #aiaj4 #afb pp41 #eg figs4  
,an account of the structure of the bee1
 with technical terms omitted      so   
far as possible4 ,practically all of the
 illustrations are new1 and      the    
various parts are interpreted according 
to the best usage in      comparative   
anatomy of insects4 ,a brief discussion 
of the physiology of      the various   
organs is included 4      ,,bureau ,,of 
,,chemistry4      ,bulletin ,no4 #aaj1  
,chemical ,analysis and ,composition of 
,american       ,honeys4 ,by ,c4 ,a4    
,browne4 ,including ,a ,microscopical   
,study of       ,honey ,pollen4 ,by ,w4 
,j4 ,young4 #aijh4 #ic pp41 #a fig41 #f 
plates4        ,a comprehensive study of
 the chemical composition of ,american  
honeys4      ,this publication is       
technical in nature and will perhaps be 
little      used by practical bee       
keepers1 but it is an important         

contribution to      apicultural        
literature4 ,by means of this work the  
detection of honey      adulteration is 
much aided4      ,,hawaii ,,agricultural
 ,,experimental ,,station4 ,,honolulu1  
,,hawaii4      ,bulletin ,no4 #ag1      
,hawaiian ,honeys4 ,by ,d4 ,l4 ,van     
,dine and ,alice ,r4       ,thompson4   
#aijh4 #ba pp41 #a plate4        ,a     
study of the source and composition of  
the honeys of ,hawaii4      ,the        
peculiar conditions found on these      
islands are dealt with4                 
,transcriber ,note      ,illustrations  
were moved so as not to split           
paragraphs4