,transcriber's ,notes3 ,bold text is surrounded by equal signs and italic text by underscores4 ,some patterns use a spaced d c for a double-crochet stitch while another uses dc4 ,,needlework ,,economies ,,edited ,,by ,,flora ,,klickmann ,a ,book of ,making and ,mending with ,oddments and ,scraps 8,a ,live ,magazine for ,women40 8,no praise can be too high for this ,magazine4 ,each article is written with knowledge and insight1 and in a practical spirit40 --,morning ,post4 #a_/- ,,net ,monthly ,illustration3 ,,the ,,girl',s ,,own ,,woman',s ,,magazine ,,edited ,,by ,,flora ,,klickmann4 8,it is a treasure-house of story and article1 as well as being an infallible guide to arts and crafts of various kinds40--,lady's ,pictorial4 8,it is brimful of brightly-drawn stories1 together with many household hints40--,daily ,telegraph4 8,it blends fiction with fashion1 and the decorative with the domestic40--,pall ,mall ,gazette4 8,it concerns itself with any and every interest which a girl may have1 or ought to have40--,westminster ,gazette4 ,published at #d1 ,bouverie ,street1 ,london1 ,e4,c4 #d4 ,on ,sale ,,everywhere4 ,,rickards 8,sylvan0 ,artificial ,silk ,,embroidery ,,threads are the closest imitation of ,pure ,silk made in ,rickard's ,,sylvan4 ,the requirements of needleworkers have been carefully studied4 ,its colours are unsurpassed for brilliancy1 silk lustre and finish4 ,,sylvan ,threads should be used for all rich colour embroidery effects4 ,illustration ,manufactured by ,c4 ,a4 ,,rickards1 ,,ltd41 ,bradford4 ,a ,,good ,,home ,,rule ,the ,finest ,,medicine ,,in ,,the ,,world ,,for ,,all ,,children',s ,,ailments4 ,illustration 8,,give ,,your ,,children ,,perry',s,,powders0 ,sold ,everywhere at #a_/c per box of #c dozen1 or ,post ,free from ,,perry',s ,,powders1 ,ld41 ,,leeds4 ,illustration3 ,,peacock ,,quality ,,registered4 ,it is essential suitable material should be used for the work selected4 ,the undermentioned wools are highly recommended and will not cause disappointment4 ,all the brands should be procurable at any ,needlework ,repository4 ,in the event of any difficulty in obtaining a supply please write to ,,faudel',s ,,ltd41 ,newgate ,street1 ,london1 ,e4,c4#a ,a4,a4 ,,peacock ,,fingering1 ,the best quality ,wool for ,the long length ,wool1 ,general ,knitting and #b1jjj yards more in the #f lb4 ,crochet purposes1 in #b1 ,spindle than in ordinary #c1 #d1 #f ply4 yarns4 #d ply kept in #aej ,colours and ,fancy ,mixtures4 ,,peacock ,,shetland ,,wool1 ,best ,for ,shawls1 ,opera ,hoods1 ,english make4 ,wraps1 ,fascinators1 etc41 in all leading colours4 ,natural and ,clerical4 ,,peacock ,,andalusian1 ,best ,for ,socks1 ,stockings1 ,english make4 ,mittens1 ,gloves1 ,cuffs1 ,gaiters1 ,wraps1 ,bonnets1 and ,shawls4 ,,peacock ,,double ,,knitting ,for ,golf ,jerseys1 ,hats and ,for some years we have ,norfolk ,jackets1 ,shooting been trying to introduce a and ,cycling ,stockings1 ,yarn with the ,wearable ,tams1 ,scarves1 ,sweaters1 characteristics of the best ,football and ,golf ,worsted1 combined with ,stockings4 the ,soft1 ,strong and ,elastic qualities of the best ,fingering4 ,we claim in the 8,peacock ,double ,knitting0 to have been eminently successful4 ,,peacock ,,vest ,,wool1 ,unshrinkable4 ,specially prepared for all ,underwear in #b1 #c1 #d ply4 ,,peacock ,,lady ,,betty1 ,a ,pure ,wool4 ,for softness and warmth1 used largely for ,baby's first ,vests1 ,shawls1 etc41 and all useful garments where the best soft wool is needed4 ,,peacock ,,ostrich ,,wool1 ,in #a oz ,balls4 ,for making1 ,boas1 ,capes1 ,hoods1 ,muffs1 ,ruffles1 etc4 ,,peacock ,,spangled ,,wool1 ,with ,for ,shawls1 ,vests1 ,hoods1 ,mercerised ,thread4 ,children's ,gloves1 ,bonnets1 etc4 ,a very pretty wool4 ,,peacock ,,aberdeen ,,fingering1 ,a good fingering for all ,made in #b1 #c1 #d ply4 purposes requiring softness1 strength and warmth4 ,,peacock ,,homespun1 or ,wheeling ,a yarn for ,deep ,sea ,mission ,yarn4 and ,charity purposes4 ,,peacock ,,royal ,,shetland ,,floss ,for ,boas1 ,ruffles1 and ,shawls1 ,,or ,,boa ,,wool4 for working on ,boa frame4 ,,needlework ,,economies ,a ,new ,edition 7,the ,fifteenth7 now ,selling4 ,price #g_/- net4 7by post #g_/f74 ,the ,flower-,patch among the ,hills ,by ,,flora ,,klickmann1 ,editor of the 8,,girl',s ,,own ,,and ,,woman',s ,,magazine10 etc4 ,with ,photogravure ,portrait of the ,author4 8,your delightful book charms me40--,miss ,marie ,corelli4 8,fun peeps out from almost every page40--,mrs4 ,florence ,l4 ,barclay4 8,i have read it with great pleasure40--,sir ,wm4 ,robertson ,nicoll4 8,i have found it infinitely more interesting than a novel40--,mr4 ,coulson ,kernahan4 8,a truly beautiful piece of work40--,mr4 ,jeffery ,farnol4 8,miss ,klickmann has quite a sense of humour40--,the ,times4 8,it transports the reader into a haven of peace1 which is quite unfaked40--,the ,daily ,telegraph4 8,this is a cheerful book40--,the ,athenum4 8,it is full of sunshine and gaiety40--,the ,sphere4 8,it is charming alike in title and text40--,the ,graphic4 8,it is indeed a charming book40--,the ,guardian4 8,we have nothing but praise for this charming volume40--,the ,record4 8,no one can come to #8,the ,flower-,patch' without feeling delighted and refreshed40--,the ,life of ,faith4 8,there are chapters that brace the spirits in these trying days40--,the ,yorkshire ,observer4 8,it is a piece of work as charming as it is clever40--,the ,field4 8,the fun1 pathos1 and deeper thoughts of their owner suit our every mood40--,the ,church ,family ,newspaper4 8,this is a book to take up when one is worried and out-of-sorts40--,the ,western ,mail4 8,an orderly review of such a book would seem like using firstly1 secondly1 and thirdly to describe the song of the lark40--,the ,sword and the ,trowel4 8,we have seen no other book of its kind equal to this1 and none more likely to bless its readers40--,the ,christian4 8,it is a delightful book1 the humour is gay and infectious40--,the ,methodist ,recorder4 8,the book is a very genial companion40--,the ,christian ,world4 8,it is a volume of well nigh unique charm1 breezy1 scent-laden and eminently delightful40--,the ,western ,morning ,news4 8,one element in the book's charm is the waywardness of a humour which does not allow the author to be long without a change of mood40--,the ,scotsman4 8,it is a capital story40--,the ,sheffield ,daily ,telegraph4 8,it is just the book for a leisure afternoon40--,the ,gentlewoman4 8,it is emphatically a book for the times40--,the ,western ,daily ,press4 ,illustration3 ,the ,flower-,patch ,among the ,hills ,by ,,flora ,,klickmann ,a ,book of ,cheerfulness3 you just smile your way right through4 ,london3 #d1 ,bouverie ,street1 ,e4,c41 #d4 ,and at all ,bookshops and ,bookstalls4 ,price ,,seven ,,shillings net 7by post #g_/f74 ,the ,home ,art ,series ,needlework ,economies ,a ,book of ,mending and ,making with ,oddments and ,scraps ,,edited ,,by ,,flora ,,klickmann ,editor of 8,the ,girl's ,own ,paper and ,woman's ,magazine40 ,london3 ,the ,office of 8,the ,girl's ,own ,paper ,woman's ,magazine0 #d ,bouverie ,street #fe ,st4 ,paul's ,churchyard1 ,e4,c4 #d4 ,illustration ,that ,baby ,girl sitting on the ground will soon be as big and strong as her sister in the swing if mother feeds her regularly upon ,robinson's 8,patent0 ,groats4 ,made nicely with milk1 and sweetened with a little sugar or syrup1 it has that delicious flavour which the little ones enjoy4 ,robinson's 8,patent0 ,groats ,possessing valuable flesh and bone-forming properties1 it is extremely nourishing and easily digested4 ,it is also a valuable diet for ,,nursing ,,mothers1 providing the nutriment that enables mothers to nurse their babies4 ,,invalids and the ,,aged find it an ideal breakfast and supper food4 ,send for ,free ,booklet 8,,advice ,,to ,,mothers10 ,dept4 ,n4,e41 ,,keen1 ,,robinson ,co41 ,ltd41 ,,london1 ,e4#a4 ,illustration3 ,,needlework ,,economies4 ,edited by ,,flora ,,klickmann ,preface4 ,war is a hard1 stern teacher1 and its lessons are bitter in the learning2 yet some of its teaching we badly needed--and not the least important of its many lessons is the one it inculcated on the criminality of waste4 ,to so many of us 8waste0 was a word with a comparative meaning4 ,what was waste in one woman was not necessarily waste in another1 we argued4 ,it was wrong for the factory girl to let her skirts drop off her for lack of mending2 but not wrong for better-off women to discard their clothes directly they showed the least sign of wear1 because they could afford to buy more1 we said2 and1 besides1 it made it good for trade--that was a favourite argument used by the extravagant to excuse their wanton waste4 ,but we have all learnt the value of economy of recent years3 and we have seen how the saving and thrift of individuals may mean the salvation of the ,state4 ,it will be a long time before we can ever return to that condition of easy-going plenty that we knew before the war4 ,in any case the cost of all commodities will remain higher in price4 ,the woman who can utilize oddments and make things with her own hands is the woman who will be making money1 as she will be supplying one of the most expensive items of modern times--personal labour4 ,the hints in this book are intended as suggestions1 which can be developed in many new directions4 ,part ,i4 ,dress ,economies4 ,the ,brassiere4 ,the ,brassiere1 or bust bodice1 is an essential garment for those who wish to keep the form neat in appearance now when the low cut corset is so much in vogue4 ,it has the great advantage of correcting round shoulders in those who are inclined to stoop when walking1 and prevents that ugly ridge so often seen in the back of the coat or blouse caused by the top of the corset4 ,illustration3 ,the ,crochet ,trimming gives a pretty finish4 ,they are so very easily made that every woman and girl should make as many as she requires1 for they are expensive articles to buy1 and the garments one makes for one's self are likely to outlast three or four of the bought kind and this1 too1 at about one-third the cost4 ,illustration3 ,this ,section of the ,front shows the actual size of the ,crochet4 ,the pattern for the ,brassiere shown here is in three parts1 the front1 side-front and back4 ,half a yard of #cf inch wide linen or cambric is sufficient4 ,the material used must be strong but fine1 and linen is1 of course1 the best for wearing qualities4 ,having cut out the sections1 join all seams with a row of stitching less than a quarter of an inch from the edge1 open out the seams flat and cover each with a casing made by a strip of the linen with the edge turned inwards1 each should then be half an inch wide4 ,stitch close to the edge at each side4 ,the three centre casings have buttonholes worked in the centre of the casing1 in an upward direction1 each an inch in length4 ,these are to admit of a strip of whalebone1 eight inches in length and which can readily be removed for washing4 ,turn in a narrow hem at each side of the shoulder section and stitch in place4 ,make the insertion and place in position on the front1 mark the lines at each side1 cut the material along the centre where the various strips are to be1 turn in a narrow hem and stitch all round4 ,then turn a hem all round the edge and stitch4 ,sidenote3 ,with an ,irish ,crochet ,insertion4 ,with the crochet hook1 put a row of #h ch #a d c into the edge of the hem from the lower edge of the back round to the opposite point and around each armhole4 ,into each loop put #g ch #a d c twice1 with #e ch #a d c from loop to loop4 ,sew a patent fastener to the top edge of the back1 and a long strip of tape to the lower edge4 ,the tapes are crossed at the back and brought round to the front to regulate the fit of the brassiere4 ,the ,insertion4 ,this is the pretty ,rose beading in ,irish crochet1 and is made with ,manlove's ,irish lace thread1 ,no4 #ej1 with a ,no4 #f crochet hook4 ,form #f ch into a ring4 #ast ,row4--#f ch #a tr into the ring1 #c ch #a tr into the ring #d times1 #c ch #a s c into the #crd of the #f ch4 #bnd ,row4--#a d c #g tr #a d c into each loop4 #crd ,row4--#e ch #a d c into the d c between the petals in last row4 #dth ,row4--#a d c #aj tr #a d c into each loop4 #eth ,row4--,same as #crd1 but #f ch instead of #e4 #fth ,row4--#a d c #ab tr #a d c into each loop4 #gth ,row4--#h ch1 picot #e of them1 #c ch #a d c into the #crd tr on #ast petal in last row2 #f ch1 picot #e of them1 #a d c into the #ith tr on same petal2 #f ch1 picot #e of them1 #a d c into the #crd tr on next petal2 #f ch1 picot #e of them1 #a d c into the #ith tr on same petal4 #hth ,row4--,turn with #h ch and repeat the #d picot loops as in last row1 for #h rows of the #d loops4 #afth ,row4--,turn with #e ch1 #a tr into #ast loop1 #b ch #a tr into each of the others1 turn4 #agth ,row4--#aj ch #a d c into the #bnd of the #e ch at the turning of last row4 #ahth ,row4--,repeat the #d picot loops over the #aj ch and form #e rows4 ,then repeat the #afth and #agth rows and form #h rows more of the picot loops4 ,make another rose and join to the picot loops in the last row to correspond with the joining of the first one4 ,when the front strip is of sufficient length1 make the strip for each shoulder and the front piece1 joining each to the loops in the straight strip4 ,make the straightening rows at each side with #a tr #b ch into each loop and petal along the sides1 placing the trs so that the chs may form a straight line4 ,work a #bnd row of #b ch #a tr into each space of #ast row1 then finish with #c d c into each space4 ,now top-sew the insertion in place and join the shoulders with a flat 8run and fell0 seam4 ,sew a piece of tape ending with a loop on the point of the front to fasten the ,brassiere to the corset4 ,beautiful ,crochet on ,household ,linen ,edited by ,,flora ,,klickmann ,this is full of beautiful ideas for table cloths1 toilet covers1 curtain tops1 sideboard cloths1 tea cosies1 dressing table runners4 ,uniform with this volume in style and price1 and issued by the same publishers4 ,a ,camisole ,yoke of ,embroidered ,filet ,net and ,crochet4 ,machine-made filet net was used in making this pretty yoke1 on which the trefoil is worked in darning stitch with ,tenax embroidery silk in a moss-rose shade of pink4 ,other lovely shades can be had in the ,tenax silk1 and blue1 green1 or mauve will answer quite as well4 ,the shape is cut out from the net1 allowing two meshes for a margin at all edges4 ,illustration3 ,from this diagram the ,shamrock ,design can be worked in darning4 ,using ,no4 #gj ,peri-,lusta crochet cotton1 overcast the two rows of meshes left as a margin with an overcasting through each mesh1 then with a ,no4 #e crochet hook work a row of d c all round the edges1 #b d c into each mesh4 ,around the edge of the sleeve part1 neck1 and fronts of the yoke1 work a row of #i ch loops1 #a into every #dth d c4 ,then into each loop put #g ch #a d c twice4 ,the trefoil is then worked in simple darning stitch4 ,have the wrong side turned towards you while doing the embroidery1 as all fastenings of the thread must be made on this side4 ,the trefoil can readily be copied from the diagram4 ,illustration3 ,this kind of trimming would also be pretty for a ,blouse or ,jumper4 ,a ,pretty ,camisole ,yoke4 ,use ,no4 #gj ,peri-,lusta ,crochet for this pretty yoke4 ,form #e ch into a ring1 into which put #h d c1 and close the row with a s c into the #ast d c1 #f ch #a tr into next d c1 #c ch #a tr into each d c1 #c ch #a s c into the #crd of the #f ch to close a row of #h spaces4 #crd ,row4--#e d c into each sp4 #dth ,row4--#g ch1 #a long tr into the #ast ch 7thread #c times over the needle7--the #g ch stands for a long tr--work off the loops of the long tr1 two at a time1 but retain the last on the needle2 make another long tr through the same ch stitch1 work off as before1 then work off all the loops together4 ,make #g ch1 and repeat the #b long tr through the #ast of the #g ch1 #a ch1 #a d c into the d c over the next tr in the row below1 repeat this long tr loop into the d c over each tr 7#h loops74 #eth ,row4--#f ch1 bring these up behind the #ast loop and fasten with a d c on centre of the loop1 #aj ch #a d c into centre of each loop4 #fth ,row4--#ab d c over each #aj ch4 #gth ,row4--#aj ch1 #f triple tr into the d c on centre of #ast loop below1 #c ch between the trs1 99 #aj ch1 #a d c over the d c on centre of next loop1 #aj ch #f triple tr with #c ch between into the d c over centre of next loop1 and repeat from 994 #hth ,row4--#ab d c over each #aj ch1 over each #c ch put #a d c #g ch #a d c4 ,to ,join the ,motifs4 ,illustration3 ,twenty-three motifs are required for this yoke4 ,work the last row to the #crd group of picots1 form #b of the picots as before2 for the #crd picot make only #b ch1 join to the #crd picot on preceding motif with a d c1 make #b ch1 then continue on to next picot on the motif in hands1 and join the next two in the same way2 #ab d c over next #aj ch1 #f ch #a d c into the d c between the two bars on preceding motif after the joining1 come back on the #f ch with #b ch1 #a d c over the centre of the #f ch1 #c ch1 #ab d c over next chs on the motif1 then join next #c picots as before and finish off the motif4 ,the extension of the front at each side is formed of a motif and the point4 ,for the point1 make the ring as in the centre of the motif1 then #f ch #a tr into the #ast d c1 #c ch #a tr into each of next #b d c1 turn4 #bnd ,row4--#i d c into #ast loop1 #e d c into each of next two1 turn1 and put three of the long tr loops into the d c's over the trs in the same manner as in the motif4 #dth ,row4--,turn1 #aj ch1 #a d c into top of long tr loop2 put the #f triple trs into the d c's as before with the #c ch between and the two #aj ch loops4 #eth ,row4--,make the picots and d c's as in the motif1 joining to the #b lower groups of triple trs as before4 ,there are #bc motifs in all required1 #d for each front1 #e for the back1 #d for each shoulder and the two extensions4 ,to ,re-sole ,cashmere ,stockings4 ,stockings re-soled according to the following directions can be worn with slippers1 and will be found comfortable4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,place the stocking as shown in ,fig4 #a1 cut off the sole at the dotted line a--b2 then cut off the toe at the line c--d4 ,as the heel of the sole piece will not lie flat it must be slit1 until1 when laid out1 it resembles fig4 #b4 ,cut pieces to these patterns from the leg of another stocking1 allowing turnings as follows3 ,fig4 #a1 the toe piece1 -inch at c--d where it joins the stocking2 fig4 #b4 -inch all round except at the lines a--b1 c--b1 where -inch only must be allowed4 ,if the stocking is short this can be remedied by leaving the extra length required at fig4 #a1 a1 and fig4 #b1 d1 in addition to the turnings previously mentioned4 ,machine the new toe piece to the stocking at c--d 7fig4 #a71 open and press the seam4 ,machine a--b to b--c1 of the sole piece 7fig4 #b71 open and press the seam4 ,machine this new sole to the stocking1 open and press the seam4 ,fasten down all seams with small slip stitches4 ,it is advisable to use mercerised cotton or silk1 and to leave the tension of the machine rather slack4 ,three ,pretty ,aprons4 ,in a ,christmas parcel sent to me from ,italy this year1 ,i found two of the dearest little aprons ,i have ever seen--much less owned4 ,illustration3 ,,an ,,easily ,,slipped-,,on ,,apron4 ,they were so very unusual and yet so simple of make1 that ,i feel every girl who is fond of aprons would love to have one4 ,to these two ,i have added one other1 equally simple1 and which costs but a few pence all told4 ,an ,easily-,slipped-on ,apron4 ,the first one of the three is one of the ,italian ones1 and is made of two yards of ordinary kitchen roller towel4 ,this particular one is made from unbleached linen1 utterly free from coloured stripes or borders4 ,from a two yard length of towelling1 cut off a strip ten inches long1 which will be used for the waistband4 ,at one end of the long length make a three inch hem1 this being the front4 ,now lay this strip on the table1 and measuring #ci inches from the hem1 make a dot with a lead pencil1 and take this dot as the centre of a circle #cc inches in circumference1 which also mark out with the pencil with the help of a compass4 ,next cut out this circle and neatly turn in the raw edge1 making a tiny hem4 ,at the back of the apron1 that is the end unhemmed1 make three pleats--one box pleat in the centre and two outward turning ones on either side of the centre pleat4 ,cut the ten inch strip into two #e inch ones1 and join in the middle to form a long band4 ,fold this neatly in the middle and point one end1 letting the other end be straight4 ,join to the back of the apron and stitch on firmly by machine4 ,put a fastening in the form of a button and button-hole1 or hook and eye1 or patent fastener1 on each end of the belt1 to complete the apron4 ,slip the head through the circular opening and let the apron fall on to the shoulders1 and join the waistband in the front1 and there you have the simplest and quickest made apron one could possibly imagine4 ,the decoration on my little apron consists of a design of three conventional red roses with green leaves and stalk1 separated by #e graduated dots1 the largest being in the middle4 ,this occurs across the foot of the apron1 about half an inch from the front hem1 and again around the neck1 but three inches from the edge of the circle4 ,right round the circle is a line of stitching in brown silk1 then a row of green ,french knots1 and then another line of brown1 making a narrow band4 ,in the centre of the belt is a large button covered in linen1 and a single red rose1 minus the stalk1 worked on it4 ,an ,apron with ,smocking4 ,illustration3 ,,an ,,apron ,,with ,,smocking ,,and ,,richelieu ,,embroidery4 ,the second apron is also ,italian1 but this one is more suitable for needlework or knitting1 when one's frock is apt to pick up pieces of thread or fluff from the wool4 ,it is easily made from a piece of white alpaca1 #bb inches long by #bg inches wide4 ,a straight piece of material is used1 and the edges are scalloped in three inch wide scallops4 ,down both sides and along the bottom there is embroidered in white silk1 a design of leaves1 with a centre flower worked in ,richelieu openwork1 and the effect of this on the alpaca is really very beautiful4 ,at the top the apron is narrowed by means of three groups of honeycomb or diamond smocking1 terminating in points4 ,a tiny pocket on the right hand side has also a little smocking at the base to correspond4 ,this pocket is made from a #f inch square of the material and is fastened to the apron by means of feather-stitching4 ,the band consists of a piece of alpaca1 one yard long and about an inch wide4 ,this band is stitched all around by machine4 ,a ,pleated ,work ,apron4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,pleated ,,apron4 ,last of all comes the little odd apron1 but ,i should not be at all surprised if many of you did not prefer it to either of the others4 ,for this1 one yard of zephyr is needed in a pretty check or plaid design1 and a quarter of a yard of plain zephyr to match or tone in colour4 ,one of the many that ,i have made was of white zephyr1 with a plaid design of pale blue and brown4 ,to go with this ,i chose a plain chocolate brown1 and it really looked exceedingly pretty when finished4 ,from the yard of check material cut a strip three inches wide along the selvedge4 ,then from the remaining piece1 cut a strip six inches wide on the width of the material4 ,this will leave a piece #bg inches wide and #cj long4 ,most zephyrs run #cj inches wide in the single width4 ,lay the material flat on the table and turn down a narrow hem1 where the selvedge has been cut off1 also making a hem the selvedge side as well4 ,then take two corners of the square and join them together to form a mitre1 being very careful to match the design of the material4 ,this forms a pocket1 which is useful for holding anything4 ,next cut the plain material into three strips of #c inches each1 and join into one long piece4 ,then the #f inch piece of checked zephyr should be cut into two pieces1 each measuring #c inches wide1 and also joined into one long strip4 ,this leaves you with one long strip of plain1 one middle-sized piece of check1 and one shorter strip of check4 ,take the short piece of check1 which measures just a yard long1 and cut off a piece of plain one inch shorter4 ,lay the plain material on top of the check1 and tack them together with a line of thread down the centre4 ,fold the check material over the plain to form a narrow border either side1 and stitch with machine4 ,leave one end of this band rough1 and the other end round off1 continuing the little border the same as the sides4 ,from the #fj-;inch strip of check1 cut off a yard length1 and the same from the plain1 proceeding exactly as before1 only finishing off one end quite straight4 ,this makes the shoulder straps and band of the apron1 and should leave two strips of material1 one check measuring #bd inches and one plain measuring #ah inches4 ,this latter cut into two strips one-and-a-half inches wide1 and join into one strip again4 ,turn down either side of this strip to make a band1 and sew along the top edge of the pocket1 slanting each end to make a pretty finish4 ,when this is done1 take a stitch with a needle through the centre of the pocket and the apron1 and this prevents it from gaping4 ,take the top of the apron next and lay in twelve half inch tucks1 six going one way and six the reverse1 but both facing in towards the centre of the apron4 ,before doing this1 turn down the rough edge to make a neat heading4 ,sew on the two straps at either end of the top4 ,from the remaining piece of zephyr1 cut a strip one-and-a-half inches wide and the length of the top of the apron bib4 ,turn in each side and both ends1 and stitch across the bib top to cover the straps4 ,to finish the apron1 work a buttonhole in the rounded end of one of the strings1 and sew a button on the other strap4 ,then take an iron and pleat the whole apron from top to bottom in half-inch pleats1 using the stitched pleats of the bib as a guide4 ,when wearing the apron the straps should go over the shoulders and cross at the back1 and come round the waist and button in the centre front4 ,the description of this apron may sound a little difficult1 but it is really simplicity itself1 and very quickly made1 besides being very inexpensive4 ,hardanger and ,cross-,stitch ,edited by ,,flora ,,klickmann ,this shows some handsome ,hardanger patterns1 also ,natural ,designs in ,cross-stitch for ,violets1 ,cyclamen1 ,creeping ,jenny1 ,nasturtiums1 ,daisies1 ,roses1 ,fern1 ,daffodils1 ,clover1 ,cherries1 and ,wild ,birds4 ,the book is uniform in style and price with 8,needlework ,economies10 and issued by the same publishers4 ,utilizing ,partly-,worn ,garments4 ,garments are often discarded as being of no use1 just because they are worn in certain parts1 whereas a little thought and careful cutting will often transform them into something quite useful4 ,it is often possible1 for instance1 to make garments for the little ones by using the least worn portions of larger sized clothes4 ,partly worn woollen vests can be admirably re-made into babies' pants4 ,to make these take the old vest and cut along the line ,a ,b1 shown on the little diagram4 ,this cuts away the most worn part of the garment4 ,curve out at the bottom1 along the lines ,c ,d and ,e ,f4 ,the stitches required in the little garments are very simple4 ,join by seaming together the edges from ,d to ,e4 ,turn down a fold of about -inch round the curved portions1 and herringbone or machine-stitch4 ,at the top1 turn down a hem of #a inch1 and stitch in the same way4 ,make two eyelet holes in the back of this1 and insert a draw-string4 ,a cosy little garment for baby is the result4 ,illustration3 ,the original garment and what it eventually becomes4 ,the lines and lettering show where the cutting is done4 ,a ,use for ,old ,stockings4 ,a delightfully warm pair of bloomers for a little girl of #e or #f can be made from the legs of winter stockings1 the feet of which are too worn for further mending4 ,two pairs are needed4 ,first cut off the legs just above the darns on the heel1 then cut up the back seam and lay them open4 ,now lay your pattern on1 and you will probably find that you can just cut the four pieces1 bearing in mind that the stocking will stretch1 so can be cut considerably narrower than ordinary material4 ,when the seams are machined up 7once stitching is quite sufficient71 and a hem1 wide enough for elastic to be run in1 made at the waist and bottom of the legs1 you have as comfortable and cosy a garment as you could wish for4 ,if the legs of the stockings are hardly wide enough for your pattern1 corners can easily be cut from the ankle or front of the foot1 and joined on to each piece4 ,this sounds very lumpy1 but the seams can be machined quite narrow 7you find they don't fray out at all71 and being of wool are perfectly soft1 and will not be noticed in the wearing4 ,grandma was cutting out new garments from old1 and her little grand-daughter was an interested spectator4 8,grandma10 remarked ,mollie1 8,you do cut and contrive1 don't you80 8,no10 said ,grandma1 8first ,i contrive1 and then ,i cut40 ,collars for ,cold ,days4 ,furs are a very expensive item at the best of times1 and increasingly so just now4 ,yet some additional warmth at the throat and neck is very necessary in the cold weather4 ,the difficulty is admirably settled in the collars here shown4 ,besides being warmer1 they are a change from an ordinary scarf1 and with a careful choice of colour1 can give a very stylish finish to any coat4 ,a ,collar with very little shaping4 ,this nicely fitting collar is worked in plain knitting with very little shaping1 and is afterwards given a fur-like appearance by means of a ,teazle ,brush4 ,materials required4 #c oz4 ,teazle ,wool4 ,two ,no4 #h ,celluloid ,knitting ,needles4 ,a large button mould4 ,two or three dress-fasteners4 ,this ,collar should be worked at a tension to produce about #f stitches and #ab rows to the inch4 ,cast on #de stitches4 ,work #h rows in plain knitting4 99 #ith ,row4--,k #e1 turn4 #ajth ,row4--,k #e4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,collar ,,with ,,little ,,shaping4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,sailor-,,shaped ,,collar4 #aath ,row4--,k #e1 lift up the stitch before the next and knit it together with the next stitch 7thereby preventing a hole71 ,k #d1 turn4 #abth ,row4--,k #aj4 #acth ,row4--,k #aj1 lift up the stitch before the next and knit it together with the next stitch1 ,k #d1 turn4 #adth ,row4--,k #ae4 ,continue in this manner1 knitting in #e extra stitches every alternate row1 until all the #de stitches are on one row again 994 ,knit without shaping until the shortest side measures #i inches4 ,finish at the wide edge1 then repeat from 99 to 99 once4 ,knit #i rows without shaping1 then repeat again from 99 to 994 ,knit #i inches without shaping4 ,repeat from 99 to 99 once more4 ,knit #h rows without shaping4 ,cast off4 ,the ,button4 ,cast on #c stitches4 ,knitting plain1 increase once at the beginning of each row until #ae stitches are on the needle4 ,knit #f rows without shaping4 ,then decrease once at the beginning of each row until only #c stitches remain4 ,cast off4 ,raise the surface of each piece lightly with a ,teazle ,brush1 until a fluffy effect is obtained4 ,sidenote3 ,to ,save the ,cost of ,fur4 ,cover the button-mould with the small round of knitting and sew it on the right front4 ,sew dress-fasteners in place on to each front4 ,if required the collar can be lined with silk or sateen4 ,a ,pretty ,sailor ,collar4 ,this sailor shaped collar is a stylish addition to any coat1 while at the same time giving the extra warmth so necessary during cold winter days4 ,worked in plain knitting the shaping will be found quite easy to follow4 ,materials required4 #c oz4 ,teazle ,wool4 ,two ,no4 #h ,celluloid ,knitting ,needles4 ,a large button mould4 ,two or three dress-fasteners4 ,this ,collar should be worked at a tension to produce about #f stitches and #ab rows to the inch4 ,commencing along the lower edge at the back of the collar1 cast on #abf stitches4 ,knitting plain1 decrease once at the beginning and end of every #abth row until #d stitches have been decreased at each side 7leaving #aah stitches in the row74 ,then increase once at the beginning and end of every #adth row until two increasings have been made at each side1 making #abb stitches on the needle1 and #gf rows 7#f inches7 from the commencement4 ,the stitches now require to be divided for the neck opening as follows3--,k #db1 cast off #ch1 ,k #db4 ,on the last #db stitches1 continue for the first shoulder piece as follows3--,on the outside edge continue increasing once every #adth row1 while at the neck edge1 decreasing once every #bnd row until #f stitches are decreased1 then once every following #abth row until #c more stitches have been decreased4 ,knit back to the neck edge then1 continuing to decrease once 7at the neck7 in every #abth row1 shape for the front and shoulder as follows3--,knit to within #e stitches of the shoulder edge1 turn and knit back4 ,knit to within #e stitches from the end of the previous row 7i4e41 #aj stitches from the shoulder edge71 turn and knit back4 99 ,knit to within #e stitches of the end of the last row1 turn and knit back4 ,repeat from 99 until only #e stitches remain in the last short row4 ,in the next row the stitches require to be all knitted into one row again1 but to prevent little holes from appearing at the turnings of the short rows a loop from the row below should be lifted up and knitted together with the next stitch above the turning4 ,knit #h rows without shaping4 ,cast off4 ,join up the wool again at the neck where the #db stitches were left1 then work the second shoulder on these stitches to correspond with the first4 ,the ,button4 ,cast on #c stitches4 ,knitting plain1 increase once at the beginning of each row until #ae stitches are on the needle4 ,knit #f rows without shaping4 ,then decrease once at the beginning of each row until only #c stitches remain4 ,cast off4 ,raise the surface of each piece lightly with a ,teazle brush until a fluffy effect is obtained4 ,cover the button mould with the small round of knitting and sew it on the right front4 ,sew dress-fasteners in place on each front4 ,if required the collar can be lined with silk or sateen4 ,to ,freshen a ,last ,season's ,jersey4 ,it is always the neck and wrist edges that show the first signs of wear on a knitted sports coat or jersey1 and often a garment is discarded as done for just because these parts are shabby or out-of-date4 ,have you ever thought of knitting an entirely fresh set of collar and cuffs to replace the soiled parts1 or to be added to a collarless jersey or coat8 ,the existing collar and cuffs can quite easily be cut away and the raw edges neatly buttonholed with wool before sewing on the new set4 ,illustration ,you will probably not be successful in getting wool the exact colour of your jersey1 so it will be best to use a striking contrast1 such as purple on a pale blue jersey1 or emerald green on a white one2 or if you already have two colours in the jersey1 or it is of a specially brightly-hued tint1 black makes a pleasing contrast4 ,and this year particularly contrasts of colour are very much in vogue1 so that your re-modelled jersey will be quite fashionable4 ,here is a practical little set that you will find quite easy to make4 ,the ,collar4 ,this is of the ever-popular sailor shape that will be quite easily adapted to most garments4 8,sirdar0 ,sports ,wool has been used for the making on ,no4 #i bone needles2 or a #e-ply 8,sirdar0 ,scotch ,fingering would work up at a similar tension4 ,three ounces of wool will be sufficient for the set4 ,abbreviations ,used4 ,k knit2 ,p purl2 ,n narrow 7k two st together72 st stitch or stitches4 ,commence from the back edge and cast on #gh st4 ,k #ag rows plain4 #ahth ,row4--,k #h1 ,p to #h st from the end of the row1 ,k #h4 #aith ,row4--,knit plain4 ,repeat the #ahth and #aith rows twice4 #bdth ,row4--,k #h1 ,p #d1 99 ,k #f1 ,p #f1 repeat from 99 #c times1 ,k #f1 ,p #d1 ,k #h4 #beth ,row--,k #ab1 99 ,p #f1 ,k #f1 repeat from 99 #c times1 ,p #f1 ,k #ab4 ,repeat the #bdth and #beth rows once4 #bhth ,row4--,k #h1 ,p #aj1 99 ,k #f1 ,p #f1 repeat from 99 twice1 ,k #f1 ,p #aj1 ,k #h4 #bith ,row4--,k #ah1 99 ,p #f1 ,k #f1 repeat from 99 twice1 ,p #f1 ,k #ah4 ,repeat the #bhth and #bith rows once4 ,repeat from the #bdth row once1 and then from the #bdth to the #bgth row once4 ,this completes the pattern4 ,k #bd rows a plain and a purl row ,sidenote3 ,other ,ways of ,renovating4 alternately1 always working the #h border st plain in every row4 ,now to divide for the neck3 ,k #cd1 and slip these st on to a safety-pin4 ,cast off #ad st for the centre of the neck1 and on the remaining #cd st knit up the left front of the collar thus3 ,work #aj rows a plain and a purl row alternately1 knitting the #bnd and #crd st together of every row turned from the neck edge1 and continuing the #h plain border st4 ,continue shaping in this way1 decreasing also at the border side by purling the #ajth and #aath st together of every #dth row turned from the border edge4 ,when you have worked off all but the #h border st continue in plain knitting1 decreasing from the neck edge only1 until only #c st remain4 ,reverse the directions for the right side of collar4 ,now pick up all the loops from the neck edge and ,k #f plain rows4 ,the ,cuffs4 ,cast on #ej st4 ,k #ac rows plain4 #adth ,row4--,k #f1 ,p to #f st from the end of the row1 ,k #f4 #aeth ,row4--,plain4 ,repeat the #adth and #aeth rows once4 #ahth ,row4--,k #f1 ,p #d1 ,k #f1 ,p #f1 ,k #f1 ,p #f1 ,k #f1 ,p #d1 ,k #f4 #aith ,row4--,k #aj1 ,p #f1 ,k #f1 ,p #f1 ,k #f1 ,p #f1 ,k #aj4 ,repeat the #ahth and #aith rows once4 #bbnd ,row4--,k #f1 ,p #aj1 ,k #f1 ,p #f1 ,k #f1 ,p #aj1 ,k #f4 #bcrd ,row4--,k #af1 ,p #f1 ,k #f1 ,p #f1 ,k #af4 ,repeat the #bbnd and #bcrd rows once4 ,repeat from the #afth row to the #aith row once4 ,this completes the pattern4 ,k #af rows a plain and a purl row alternately1 working the #f border st plain in every row4 ,k #f plain rows1 cast off4 ,for a ,collarless ,coat4 ,another simple way of freshening the neck of a collarless jersey coat is to work a strip of plain knitting #d inches wide and #ab inches long1 and stretch it along the neck edge4 ,cuffs can be worked to correspond4 ,a pretty striped effect for this style of finish can be arrived at by using two different shades of wool1 and working first four rows of one and then four rows of the other4 ,the ,modern ,knitting ,book ,edited by ,,flora ,,klickmann ,if you are interested in knitting1 this is the book you should possess4 ,it includes a number of directions for garments for men and women's wear1 and some delightful patterns for the little ones1 to say nothing of the designs in fancy knitting for household use4 ,the volume is uniform with this series1 and issued by the same publishers4 ,the ,use and ,abuse of ,gloves4 ,never be tempted to throw away a pair of gloves1 however old4 ,that is1 until you have decided on their utter uselessness4 ,because a glove has holey fingers1 or a badly torn thumb1 or a split palm1 it does not signify that it is of no use except for house-work4 ,our illustration will show what can be done with gloves that are 8nearly hopeless0 to most people4 ,to ,mend a ,glove worn ,between the ,fingers4 ,the first part to go is1 as a rule1 between the fingers4 ,this more especially is the case with washing gloves1 which have a tendency to shrink1 and wash-leathers1 unless splice-seamed1 will always do this4 ,as the fingers shrink1 the space between splits1 and it cannot be sewn up because it would make the hand too tight and the fingers too short4 ,to remedy this1 take a reel of strong thread and a small fur needle 7three-sided needle7 and make a fine net-work between the two fingers4 ,illustration3 ,,showing ,,the ,,lattice-,,work ,,between ,,the ,,fingers1 ,,and ,,also ,,how ,,to ,,apply ,a ,,new ,,thumb4 ,button-hole the edge of the split as you form the lattice4 ,insert your needle in the edge of the hole and make one button-hole stitch2 then take your needle into the other side of the hole with another button-hole stitch4 ,then two button-hole stitches1 and take your needle up to the top edge of the hole1 near where you began4 ,this forms bars about #a_/af-;inch apart1 and with two button-hole stitches in between4 ,this completed1 turn the glove and do the same thing across from side to side1 knotting the thread each time it crosses the under-threads4 ,by this means1 a tiny net-work is made4 ,this net-work is elastic1 and will wear and wash into shape and last as long as the glove itself4 ,making a ,neat ,patch4 ,next to the fingers1 the thumb is the worst problem4 ,i find that opening carriage doors has an unfortunate knack of splitting a glove1 where the thumb joins the palm4 ,if there is plenty of room1 this split can be neatly joined up1 but the better plan is to patch it with a tiny piece of an old glove4 ,sidenote3 ,taking ,care of ,your ,gloves4 ,tack the patch in1 and then with fine silk the colour of the glove1 button-hole around the edge of the tear1 taking up the under-skin as well4 ,this keeps it firm and neat1 and the patch may be cut away underneath1 just leaving a small margin for stretch4 ,adding a ,new ,thumb4 ,if the top of the thumb wears out1 and is unpatchable1 an entirely new one can be put in with very little trouble4 ,i have an old piece of chamois leather1 which ,i keep for this very thing1 and it answers the purpose beautifully4 ,cut out the torn thumb carefully1 retaining the shape as much as possible4 ,split up the seam and lay it flat on the piece of leather or kid which you are using to mend the glove4 ,cut around the pattern1 leaving a tiny margin1 as your sewing is not as fine as that done by an expert4 ,then tack the new thumb into the glove around the base4 ,button-hole this carefully in1 and lastly button-hole the seam up the thumb and across the top4 ,this will be found quite easy4 ,for coloured kid gloves1 ,i buy scraps of kid from the boot maker1 and you can procure quite a nice sized piece for a small sum1 large enough to cut any size thumb and to leave a good few scraps for patching4 ,always remember in putting on gloves to proceed slowly1 pulling on the fingers first and half the palm next1 and the thumb last4 ,be as careful in taking off as in putting on1 and pull each finger and thumb into shape4 ,illustration3 ,a ,patchwork ,cloth made with 8pieces0 machined together and finished with some narrow insertion4 ,a ,knitted ,hat4 ,materials ,required4 ,for the hat illustrated a buckram shape was used with the brim slightly curled all round1 and deeper at the back than the front1 and having a tall crown2 #a ounce of purple wool1 and #c ounces of white #d-ply 8,beehive0 ,scotch ,fingering2 five ,no4 #ad long steel knitting-needles4 ,the fifth needle is only required for the brim where there are too many stitches for three needles4 ,hat shapes alter1 of course1 from time to time1 but the general principles remain the same1 and by a little adaptation1 this can be made to suit any shape of the 8sailor0 class4 ,illustration3 ,the ,hat is white1 and the ,flower ,pattern is worked in purple4 ,directions4 ,commence by casting on #b st on each of three needles4 ,knit #ast row plain4 #bnd ,row4--,knit twice into each st1 thus--knit the st1 but retain it on the left needle1 twist the point of the right needle round to the back of the st and knit the other side of this st1 then drop the st off the left needle4 ,repeat into every st4 #crd ,row1 and every ,alternate ,row4--,knit plain4 #dth ,row4--99 ,knit #a1 knit twice into next st1 repeat from 994 #fth ,row4--99 ,knit #b1 knit twice into each st1 repeat from 994 #hth ,row4--99 ,knit #c1 knit twice into next st1 repeat from 994 ,continue in this way1 increasing the number of stitches in each section by #a st before the increase until in the #dfth row1 there are #bd st in each section1 that is #add st in the row4 ,knit #db rows on the #add st4 #hith ,row4--99 ,knit #aa1 knit twice into the next st1 repeat from 994 #ijth ,row4--,knit plain and repeat these #b rows until the number in each section is increased to #bj1 then knit #aj rows of the #bdj st4 ,use the spare needle to take off some of the stitches1 putting #fj st on each of the #d needles4 ,work in ribbing of knit #a1 purl #a all round for #af rows1 then cast off the stitches on #b of the needles1 continue on the other #b the ribbing for the wide part of the brim1 casting off #d st at the beginning and end of every row 7composed of the stitches on the #b needles71 until this piece measures #a inches1 then cast off4 ,it will be necessary to fit the covering to the shape to see that it fits evenly1 and to add or subtract a row or two perhaps to the part for each portion of the shape1 while working4 ,sidenote3 ,pretty and ,durable4 ,stretch the covering over the shape and tack along the line between the crown and brim to the shape1 turn the wrong side of the hat towards you and gather up the edge of the covering to fit the shape along the edge of the crown4 ,sew the knitting securely to this edge of the shape4 ,headline the hat and press the brim with a warm iron1 placing a damp cloth under and over it2 iron until the cloths are quite dry4 ,the ,band4 ,this is made in the new floral knitting1 and gives a nice finish to a very useful and becoming hat4 ,using the same kind of white wool and #b needles1 cast on #bj st and work #cj rows1 #a plain and #a purl row alternately1 so that there is a right and a wrong side to the band4 #cast ,row4--,knit #ac 7using the white wool71 tie on the purple wool close up to the #acth st1 and knit #d p 7purple71 then finish the row with white4 ,when using two or more colours in this class of knitting1 one of the wools is stretched across the fingers of the left hand just as in crochet1 and the wool for the stitch taken from this by inserting the needle under it and drawing the loop through the stitch you are knitting on the left-hand needle4 ,keep the different wools at opposite sides of your work1 so as not to tangle them1 and see that the wools on the back of the work are kept even and not pulled too tightly1 otherwise the work will pucker4 #cbnd ,row4--,purl #g w 7white71 #a p 7purple71 #ab w4 #ccrd ,row4--,knit #aa w 7always slipping the #ast st71 #a p1 #h w4 #cdth ,row4--,purl #i w1 #a p1 #aj w4 #ceth ,row4--,knit #i w1 #b p1 #i w4 #cfth ,row4--,purl #aj w1 #a p1 #i w4 #cgth ,row4--,knit #h w1 #a p1 #aa w4 #chth ,row4--,purl #ab w1 #a p1 #g w4 #cith ,row4--,knit #g w1 #a p1 #ab w4 #djth ,row4--,purl #ab w1 #a p1 #g w4 #dast ,row4--,knit #g w1 #a p1 #ab w4 #dbnd ,row4--,purl #ab w1 #a p1 #g w4 #dcrd ,row4--,knit #g w1 #a p1 #a w1 #b p1 #i w4 #ddth ,row4--,purl #h w1 #d p1 #a w1 #c p1 #d w4 #deth ,row4--,knit #d w1 #h p1 #a w1 #b p1 #e w4 #dfth ,row4--,purl #d w1 #e p1 #c w1 #d p1 #d w4 #dgth ,row4--,knit #f w1 #a p1 #b w1 #a p1 #b w1 #d p1 #d w4 #dhth ,row4--,purl #e w1 #c p1 #a w1 #c p1 #a w1 #c p1 #d w4 #dith ,row4--,knit #c w1 #d p1 #b w1 #a p1 #b w1 #a p1 #g w4 #ejth ,row4--,purl #e w1 #d p1 #c w1 #e p1 #c w4 #east ,row4---,knit #d w1 #b p1 #a w1 #h p1 #e w4 #ebnd ,row4--,purl #d w1 #d p1 #a w1 #d p1 #c w1 #a p1 #c w4 #ecrd ,row4--,knit #c w1 #c p1 #a w1 #d p1 #a w1 #c p1 #e w4 #edth ,row4--,purl #aj w1 #b p1 #a w1 #c p1 #d w4 #eeth ,row4--,knit #g w1 #a p1 #f w1 #c p1 #c w4 #efth ,row4--,purl #b w1 #e p1 #d w1 #a p1 #a w1 #b p1 #e w4 #egth ,row4--,knit #d w1 #d p1 #a w4 #d p1 #a w1 #c p1 #c w4 #ehth ,row4--,purl #d w1 #a p1 #a w1 #d p1 #b w1 #b p1 #a w1 #a p1 #d w4 #eith ,row4--,knit #e w1 #b p1 #b w1 #h p1 #c w4 #fjth ,row4--,purl #c w1 #d p1 #a w1 #b p1 #aj w4 #fast ,row4--,knit #aa w1 #c p1 #f w4 #fbnd ,row4--,purl #f w1 #a p1 #ac w4 ,knit next #bb rows all white1 then repeat from the #cast row three times more1 ending with #cj rows of white4 ,press this band on the wrong side as in the brim1 turn in each end to form an angle1 and secure on the wrong side with a few stitches made with the woollen thread1 press the ends flat1 then place the band round the hat in the manner illustrated and sew in place4 ,to ,wash the ,hat4 ,the covering and band are easily removed from the shape when it becomes necessary to clean the hat4 ,make a lather of warm soapy water1 immerse the covering and press and squeeze through the hands1 but do not rub1 until it seems clean1 then squeeze out all the water possible and rinse in clean warm water1 again squeeze as dry as possible1 and place immediately before the fire until nearly1 but not quite1 dry4 ,have the wrong side turned out4 ,press on the wrong side with a hot iron until quite dry1 pull into shape1 and replace over the buckram4 ,the band1 or covering1 if it be made with coloured wool1 should have a handful of salt added to the lather and rinsing water4 ,illustration3 ,design ,no4 #h4 ,this ,stocking ,top is described on page #bg4 ,fancy ,tops for ,socks and ,stockings4 ,very pretty effects can be obtained for turnover stocking tops by working in plain knitting in two or three shades of wool4 ,the designs illustrated are worked in grey wool1 with black and white introduced just to show the contrast1 and when worked in bright colours many of these would be very effective4 ,for instance1 saxe blue and a bright brown would be pretty on a grey sock1 and emerald green and white on a navy sock is another combination2 or the boy's particular school colours can be introduced1 giving a uniform touch to his rig-out4 ,these tops are not at all difficult to work1 and can be added to any sock directions4 ,they are best commenced with six or eight rows of ribbing1 as this makes them set well1 and when the fancy design is completed the work is turned before commencing the sock itself4 ,care must be taken to see that you have the correct multiple of stitches for the particular design chosen1 and1 if necessary1 add the required number to give this after the ribbing1 decreasing them to the original number again1 to get the even rib before commencing the sock4 ,another point that should be borne in mind is1 that the wools must be allowed to run very loosely1 or the design will become contracted4 ,you can also quite easily prevent the wools becoming twisted together in the working1 if in changing from one wool to another you weave the wools first over1 and then under the shade previously used4 ,if you find you have the design contracted a little when finished1 pressing with a hot iron over a damp cloth will often relieve this4 ,in fact1 all knitted garments are the better for being pressed in this way4 ,the directions given are for a sock for a boy of from six to seven years of age1 and the leg measures #aa inches to the base of the heel when the top is turned over2 the foot measures seven inches from heel to toe4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,finished ,,stocking ,,showing ,,design ,no4 #a4 ,the ,sock4 ,abbreviations ,used4 ,k knit2 ,p purl2 ,n narrow 7decrease a stitch by knitting two stitches together72 ,st stitch or stitches4 ,materials required3 #d ounces of ,messrs4 ,j4 ,j4 ,baldwin's #d-ply grey 8,beehive0 ,scotch ,fingering1 a half ounce each of white and black wool1 and four ,no4 #ae steel needles4 ,with grey wool cast on #fd st1 #bb on each of two needles and #bj on the third needle4 ,work in rib of ,k #b1 and ,p #b for #h rounds4 ,work one plain round1 increasing your number of st to #gj1 then commence the fancy top1 using the three wools as follows3 #ajth and #aath ,rounds4--#d grey 7,g71 #c white 7,w71 #d ,g1 #c black 7,b74 ,repeat4 #abth and #acth ,rounds4--#b ,b1 #b ,w1 #c ,g1 #b ,w1 #b ,b1 #c ,g4 ,repeat4 #adth and #aeth ,rounds4--#b ,w1 #b ,b1 #c ,g1 #b ,b1 #b ,w1 #c ,g4 ,repeat4 #afth1 #agth1 #ahth1 and #aith ,rounds4--#d ,g1 #c ,b1 #d ,g1 #c ,w4 ,repeat4 #bjth and #bast ,rounds4--#b ,w1 #b ,b1 #c ,g1 #b ,b1 #b ,w1 #c ,g4 ,repeat4 #bbnd and #bcrd ,rounds4--#b ,b1 #b ,w1 #c ,g1 #b ,w1 #b ,b1 #c ,g4 ,repeat4 ,illustration3 ,design ,no4 #b4 #bdth and #beth ,rounds4--#d ,g1 #c ,w1 #d ,g4 #c ,b4 ,repeat4 ,work a plain round in the grey wool and decrease your stitches to #fd again4 ,turn the work1 and commence the sock in rib of ,k #c1 ,p #a4 ,work for #e inches1 then commence shaping for the leg as follows3 ,k #a1 ,n1 work in rib to the four last st of the round ,n1 ,k #a1 ,p #a4 ,decrease in this way four times1 with #g rows between each decreasing4 ,work an inch without shaping1 then divide the st1 putting half on to one needle for the heel1 taking care that the decreasings made come in the centre of the needle4 ,the ,heel4 ,make an extra stitch1 so that you have an odd number on the needle 7you should then have #bi st71 and knit and purl a row alternately 7always slipping the first st7 until you have worked the same number of rows as you have st on the needle1 ending with a purl row4 ,k #af1 ,n1 ,k #a1 turn4 ,p #e1 ,purl #b together1 ,p #a1 turn4 ,k #f1 ,n1 ,k #a1 turn4 ,p #g1 ,purl #b together1 ,p #a1 turn1 and continue in this manner until all the stitches have been worked on to one needle again4 ,illustration3 ,design ,no4 #c4 ,pick up #ad loops at each side of the heel1 and commence working in rounds again for the foot1 continuing the rib on the instep needles1 but working in plain knitting for the under part of the foot4 ,illustration3 ,design ,no4 #d4 ,in the first round narrow at each side1 by taking the two lowest stitches picked up from the side of the heel flap together4 ,repeat this decreasing three times1 with #a round between each4 ,continue the foot without further shaping for #c inches1 when you will be ready for the toe4 ,the ,toe4 ,put half your st on the heel needle1 and divide the remainder between the other two needles4 ,work the toe in plain knitting all round1 decreasing at each end of the heel needle1 and at the outer end of the other needles every other round1 until you have only #bj st left in the round4 ,place these on to two needles1 and cast off both needles together4 ,sidenote3 ,for the ,small ,boy4 ,design ,no4 #b4 ,for this pattern the number of st used must give a multiple of #h4 #ast and #bnd ,rounds4--#c ,g1 #e ,b4 ,repeat4 #crd and #dth ,rounds4--#a ,b1 99 #a ,g1 #g ,b4 ,repeat from 994 #eth and #fth ,rounds4--#d ,g1 99 #c ,b1 #e ,g4 ,repeat from 994 #gth and #hth ,rounds4--#a ,g1 99 ,w1 #b ,g1 #a ,b1 #a ,g1 #a ,b1 #b ,g4 ,repeat from 994 #ith and #ajth ,rounds4--#c ,w1 #e ,g4 ,repeat4 #aath and #abth ,rounds4--#a ,g1 99 #a ,w1 #b ,g1 #a ,b1 #a ,g1 #a ,b1 #b ,g4 ,repeat from 994 #acth and #adth ,rounds4--#d ,g1 99 #c ,b1 #e ,g4 ,repeat from 994 #aeth and #afth ,rounds4--#a ,b1 99 #a ,g1 #g ,b4 ,repeat from 994 #agth and #ahth ,rounds4--#c ,g1 #e ,b4 ,repeat4 ,design ,no4 #c4 ,for this pattern the number of stitches used must give a multiple of #f4 ,illustration3 ,design ,no4 #e4 ,commence the border by working #b plain rounds in the black wool1 then #b plain rounds in the white4 #eth and #fth ,rounds4--#a ,b1 #e ,w4 ,repeat4 #gth and #hth ,rounds4--#a ,w1 99 #c ,b1 #c ,w4 ,repeat from 994 #ith and #ajth ,rounds4--#b ,w1 #a ,b4 ,repeat4 #aath and #abth ,rounds4--#a ,w1 #c ,b1 #a ,w1 #a ,b4 ,repeat4 #acth and #adth ,rounds4--#a ,w1 99 #c ,g1 #c ,w4 ,repeat from 994 #aeth and #afth ,rounds4--#e ,g1 #a ,w4 ,repeat4 #agth and #ahth ,rounds4--,white4 #aith and #bjth ,rounds4--,black4 #dth ,design4 ,for this pattern the number of stitches used must give a multiple of #aj #ast and #bnd ,rounds4--,white4 #crd and #dth ,rounds4--,black4 #eth and #fth ,rounds4--#a ,b1 #a ,w4 ,repeat4 #gth and #hth ,rounds4--,white4 ,illustration3 ,design ,no4 #f4 ,illustration3 ,design ,no4 #g4 #ith and #ajth ,rounds4--#a ,w1 99 #b ,b1 #c ,w1 #b ,g1 #c ,w4 ,repeat from 994 #aath and #abth ,rounds4--#d ,b1 #a ,w1 #d ,g1 #a ,w4 ,repeat4 #acth and #adth ,rounds4--#a ,w1 99 #b ,b1 #c ,w1 #b ,g1 #c ,w4 ,repeat from 994 #aeth and #afth ,rounds4--,white4 #agth and #ahth ,rounds4--#a ,b1 #a ,w1 ,repeat4 #aith and #bjth ,rounds4--,black4 #bast and #bbnd ,rounds4--,white4 ,design ,no4 #e4 ,for this pattern the number of stitches used must give a multiple of #aa4 #ast and #bnd ,rounds4--,white4 #crd and #dth ,rounds4--,black4 #eth and #fth ,rounds4--#c ,g1 #a ,w1 #b ,b1 #b ,w1 #b ,b1 #a ,w4 ,repeat4 ,sidenote3 ,effective ,patterns4 #gth and #hth ,rounds4--#a ,w1 #a ,g1 #a ,w1 #b ,b1 #a ,w1 #b ,g1 #a ,w1 #b ,b4 ,repeat4 #ith and #ajth ,rounds4--#a ,b1 99 #a ,w1 #b ,b1 #a ,w1 #d ,g1 #a ,w1 #b ,b4 ,repeat from 994 #aath and #abth ,rounds4--#c ,b1 #a ,w1 #f ,g1 #a ,w4 ,repeat4 #acth and #adth ,rounds4--#a ,b1 99 #a ,w1 #b ,b1 #a ,w1 #d ,g1 #a ,w1 #b ,b4 ,repeat from 994 #aeth and #afth ,rounds4--#a ,w1 #a ,g1 #a ,w1 #b ,b1 #a ,w1 #b ,g1 #a ,w1 #b ,b4 ,repeat4 #agth and #ahth ,rounds4--#c ,g1 #a ,w1 #b ,b1 #b ,w1 #b ,b1 #a ,w4 ,repeat4 #aith and #bjth ,rounds4--,black4 #bast and #bbnd ,rounds4--,white4 ,design ,no4 #f4 ,for this pattern the number of stitches used must give a multiple of #h4 #ast and #bnd ,rounds4--#d ,b1 #d ,g4 ,repeat4 #crd and #dth ,rounds4--#d ,g1 #d ,b4 ,repeat4 #eth and #fth ,rounds4--,black4 #gth and #hth ,rounds4--#c ,g1 #e ,b4 ,repeat4 #ith and #ajth ,rounds4--#b ,g1 99 #b ,w1 #c ,b1 #c ,g4 ,repeat from 994 #aath and #abth ,rounds4--#b ,g1 99 #a ,b1 #c ,w1 #a ,b1 #c ,g4 ,repeat from 994 #acth and #adth ,rounds4--#a ,g1 99 #c ,b1 #b ,w1 #c ,g4 ,repeat from 994 #aeth and #afth ,rounds4--#d ,b1 99 #c ,g1 #e ,b4 ,repeat from 994 #agth and #ahth ,rounds4--,black4 #aith and #bjth ,rounds4--#d ,b1 #d ,g4 ,repeat4 #bast and #bbnd ,rounds4--#d ,g1 #d ,b4 ,repeat4 ,design ,no4 #g4 ,only two colours will be needed for this design1 and the number of stitches used must give a multiple of #h4 #ast and #bnd ,rounds4--,black4 #crd and #dth ,rounds4--,grey4 #eth and #fth ,rounds4--#a ,b1 #b ,g1 #d ,b1 #a ,g4 ,repeat4 #gth and #hth ,rounds4--#a ,b1 #b ,g1 #a ,b1 #d ,g4 ,repeat #ith and #ajth ,rounds4--#a ,b1 #b ,g1 #a ,b1 #d ,g4 ,repeat4 #aath and #abth ,rounds4--#g ,b1 #a ,g4 ,repeat4 #acth and #adth ,rounds4--#c ,g1 #a ,b1 #b ,g1 #a ,b1 #a ,g4 ,repeat4 #aeth and #afth ,rounds4--#c ,g1 #a ,b1 #b ,g1 #a ,b1 #a ,g4 ,repeat4 #agth and #ahth ,rounds4--#d ,b1 #b ,g1 #a ,b1 #a ,g4 ,repeat4 #aith and #bjth ,rounds4--,grey4 #bast and #bbnd ,rounds4--,black4 ,design ,no4 #h4 ,this border works out a good deal wider than the others1 and would perhaps be more suitable for a man's stocking2 or to reduce the width the stripes from each edge could be omitted4 ,stitches giving a multiple of #h will be required4 #ast and #bnd ,rounds4--,black4 #crd and #dth ,rounds4--,white4 #eth and #fth ,rounds4--,black4 #gth and #hth ,rounds4--,grey4 #ith and #ajth ,rounds4--#e ,g1 #c ,b4 ,repeat4 #aath and #abth ,rounds4--#f ,g1 99 #a ,b1 #g ,g4 ,repeat from 994 #acth and #adth ,rounds4--#b ,g1 99 #a ,w1 #g ,g4 ,repeat from 994 #aeth and #afth ,rounds4--#a ,g1 99 #c ,w1 #e ,g4 ,repeat from 994 #agth and #ahth ,rounds4--#c ,w1 #d ,g1 ,repeat4 #aith and #bjth ,rounds4--#b ,w1 99 #d ,b1 #a ,g1 #c ,w4 ,repeat from 994 #bast and #bbnd ,rounds4--#c ,w1 #e ,g4 ,repeat4 #bcrd and #bdth ,rounds4--#a ,g1 99 #c ,w1 #e ,g4 ,repeat from 994 #beth and #bfth ,rounds4--#b ,g1 99 #a ,w1 #g ,g4 ,repeat from 994 #bgth and #bhth ,rounds4--#f ,g1 99 #a ,b1 #g ,g4 ,repeat from 994 #bith and #cjth ,rounds4--#e ,g1 #c ,b4 ,repeat4 #cast and #cbnd ,rounds4--,grey4 #ccrd and #cdth ,rounds4--,black4 #ceth and #cfth ,rounds4--,white4 #cgth and #chth ,rounds4--,black4 ,making a ,child's ,overall from a ,narrow ,skirt4 ,good quality washing materials for making children's everyday frocks are now so very much more expensive than in pre-war days1 that the economical woman who happens to have a number of washing skirts of the narrower type so popular a few years ago1 would be wise to make some good use of them4 ,while it is a comparatively simple matter for the woman who makes her own clothes to remodel a full skirt into a narrow design quite successfully1 it is not so simple to adapt a narrow design to a wider pattern4 ,even if one could match the material1 it is never wise to use new fabric with old1 and the freshness of the new material would only give emphasis to the fact that the other parts were slightly worn4 ,here is a suggestion that may not have occurred to everyone4 ,have you ever thought what really excellent little garments for the children can be made from the best parts of a cotton skirt8 ,as an example1 we are showing how the child's overall illustrated can be cut from a two-piece skirt of quite the narrowest type 7this design only measures #a yards round the hem7 without even cutting into the parts that are likely to be the most worn4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,overall ,,that ,,can ,,be ,,cut ,,from ,a ,,narrow ,,skirt4 ,whether the skirt used is made of linen1 piqu1 casement cloth1 or any of the stouter washing fabrics1 it would serve admirably for making this little frock that can either be worn as an overall over another frock1 or as a little summer play frock without another dress underneath4 ,the skirt made use of in this instance is a two-gored design1 with a seam at each side1 and to cut the pattern as shown on the diagram1 the hem of the skirt should be unpicked1 also the side seams from the waist to just below the hips1 or just far enough to allow of the skirt being laid flat out on the table4 ,sidenote3 ,easy to ,make and to ,slip ,on4 ,take care to see that you have the skirt placed so that there is an even fold at centre back and front1 and the side seams back one another1 then lay on your pattern4 ,you will see that in placing the sleeve portion it comes over the side seam of the skirt1 giving you two seams in the sleeve instead of one1 but the second seam will come on the under-arm so that it will not in any way spoil the appearance of the garment4 ,the collar and cuff portions will need to be lined in order to neaten them1 and you will probably find sufficient from the cuttings to cut these out again1 or if not1 a small piece of white calico could quite well be used for this4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,diagram ,,for ,,cutting ,,out ,,the ,,overall ,,from ,a ,,skirt4 ,the back of the overall is cut down from neck to hem1 and finished with a hem at each side1 and fastened with buttons and buttonholes4 ,many varieties of trimming could be used for a little overall of this description4 ,french knots worked in a contrasting colour along the hem and round the collar and cuffs would be effective1 or some simple cross-stitch animal designs would look well4 ,use ,clark's 8,anchor0 ,coton ,broder1 ,no4 #ab4 ,a frock for a two-year old has been used as an example1 but it would be quite possible to cut a larger size in a like manner1 though it might be necessary to put a false hem of some other material4 ,stitchery4 ,if you are interested in ,needlework1 you will like the magazine 8,stitchery0 that is being edited by ,flora ,klickmann4 ,it deals with practically every form of ,needlecraft1 plain and fancy1 including ,crochet4 ,it is a high-class publication1 printed in the same style as 8,needlework ,economies40 ,re-footing made ,easy4 ,illustration3 ,a ,hand-knit ,sock showing the replaceable foot sections1 and the method of reinforcing the heel4 ,this method of knitting hose renders it an easy matter to repair the heel and toe when these parts become worn4 ,by simply undoing the end stitch of a row of crochet chain stitches1 the sole1 heel1 or toe part can be almost instantly removed by pulling the thread and undoing the crochet4 ,the chain stitches are used to join the different parts1 which are worked separately and then joined together4 ,when the worn part is removed1 a piece exactly the same size is knitted and joined to the remainder of the sock with the row of chain stitches4 ,in this way the leg and instep portions1 which seldom wear out1 may be made to serve for two or three renewals of the parts exposed to wear4 ,it is just as easy to knit a sock or stocking in the new way as in the old1 and the saving effected by the new way is great1 especially now1 when woollen thread is both scarce and expensive4 ,the same may be said about cotton thread4 ,the sock or stocking is begun in the usual way1 and may be made either plain or ribbed4 ,the sock illustrated is a full-size man's sock1 and the joinings are shown in the dark line round the heel1 along the side of the foot1 and across the instep at the beginning of the front toe part4 ,these joinings were made in black thread on the white sock in order to show the joinings1 but in making a sock they must all be worked with the same thread as in the sock4 ,then the joinings are not visible on the outside1 nor is there a seam on the inside1 as the row of chain stitches forms a flat line4 ,working the ,leg4 ,in the sock shown here #hj st were cast on three ,no4 #ab knitting-needles4 ,on these were worked #d inches of ribbing--#a plain1 #a purl4 ,then #e inches of plain knitting with a back seam4 ,the ,instep4 ,divide for the heel1 putting #bj st at each side of the back seam1 all on one needle4 ,divide the #ci remaining st on to the two needles1 and continue knitting on these 7leaving the heel needle for the present71 knit and purl alternate rows until the piece is #f inches long4 ,put the #ci st on one needle1 and leave this part aside for the present4 ,the ,heel4 ,cast on #da st on a needle in 8slip loops10 that is1 wind the thread once round the top of the thumb1 and take over the loop so formed on to the needle4 ,sidenote3 ,renewing ,worn ,portions4 ,knit the #da loops1 purling the #bast for the back seam1 which is preserved for the entire heel4 ,purl the next row1 then knit and purl alternate rows until there are #bd rows in all4 ,closing the ,heel4 #ast ,row4--,knit to the #ith st after the back seam1 slip the #ajth st1 k next stitch1 pull the slipped stitch over1 k #a1 turn 7leaving #h st74 #bnd ,row4--,slip #ast st and pull back to the #ajth after the back seam1 purl #ajth and #aath together1 purl next st1 turn and repeat these #b rows until all the stitches at each side have been taken in4 ,cut the thread1 leaving a short end attached4 ,the ,sole4 ,there should now be #bd st at each side of the heel1 and #bc along the top of it4 ,cast on a number equal to these1 #ga1 with the 8slip loops40 ,k and p alternate rows for #d rows4 ,then decrease in every plain row in the #crd and #dth st from each end1 thus3--k #b1 sl #a1 k #a1 pass the slipped st over1 k to the #dth st from the end1 k #dth and #crd together1 k #b4 ,continue until the stitches are reduced to #ci1 to correspond with the stitches on the instep4 ,knit this piece until it is exactly the same length as the instep portion4 ,illustration3 ,how the new ,toe and ,heel for a ,machine-knit ,sock are worked4 ,the ,toe4 ,take two additional needles1 cast on #bj st on one1 and #ai on the other1 following after those on the sole needle1 making the 8slip loops0 as before4 ,join round1 and k #b rows plain4 ,decrease in the next round thus3--k first #b on the sole needle1 sl #a1 k #a1 pass the slipped st over1 k to the #dth st from the end of this needle1 k #crd and #bnd together1 k #b4 ,knit first #b st on next needle1 sl #a1 k #a1 pass the slipped st over1 k remainder of needle1 k next needle to the last #d st1 k #dth and #crd st together1 k #b4 ,knit #f rounds4 ,decrease as before4 ,knit #e rounds4 ,decrease4 ,knit #d rounds4 ,decrease4 ,knit #c rounds4 ,decrease4 ,knit #b rounds4 ,decrease4 ,decrease in every #bnd round until there are #aa st remaining on the sole needle4 ,put back and front needles together1 and taking a corresponding stitch from each needle1 cast off #b together4 ,draw the thread through last loop and cut it1 leaving a short end4 ,the ,method of ,joining4 ,commencing at the back part of the leg portion1 place the heel in position1 having the wrong sides turned towards you4 ,with a ,no4 #a steel crochet hook1 make a chain on the end of the thread1 insert the hook through the #ast st on the heel1 and through the #ast st on the needle of the leg portion1 draw a loop through these #b together1 and through the chain on the hook1 insert the hook through the next st on the heel1 slip off the joined st on the needle1 insert the hook through the next st on the needle1 draw a loop through the #b st and the loop on the needle1 repeat to the end of the needle1 then take up the foot part1 and put it in place on the heel4 ,join in the same way1 inserting the hook through corresponding stitches4 ,continue up the side1 across the instep and along to the heel again4 ,fasten the thread1 leaving about an inch of it4 ,work the end into the following stitches to conceal it4 ,it can be readily seen that when any part is worn and requires to be renewed1 the joining thread can be cut and unravelled as far as required4 ,to ,renew the ,toe ,portion4 ,undo the chain stitches along the front1 cut the sole part in a line with the front1 unpick the threads to get an even line of stitches1 pick these up on a needle1 and knit the toe piece exactly like the first one4 ,join to the front in the same manner4 ,to ,reinforce the ,heel and ,toe4 ,it is not generally known that these parts can be so reinforced that their durability is prolonged two or three times4 ,the best method of doing this is shown in the sock illustrated4 8,star ,sylko0 ,no4 #e1 matching the colour of the sock1 is worked into the lines of knitted stitches1 using a darning needle for the purpose4 ,take up one side of each st on the needle1 draw the thread through1 working in perpendicular rows1 come back on the other side of the stitches down to where the #ast row was commenced1 and so on4 ,in this way the cotton thread is all on the outside of the woollen knitting1 and receives all the friction from the shoe1 while it never comes next to the skin4 ,the dark strip down the heel shows where the strengthening stitches have been worked in4 ,to ,re-,knit a ,heel and ,toe into a ,machine-,knit ,sock4 ,in the machine-knit sock the heel and toe are not made in the same way as in most of the hand-knit variety1 but usually on the lines of the illustration at bottom of page4 ,in the case of the heel1 a portion of the leg has been worked to show how the heel is made straight on to this4 ,sidenote3 ,repairing ,machine-made ,socks4 ,cut away the heel at its base to the #ast decreasing st4 ,make a cut across the sole next the heel in a line with the #crd decreasing at each side4 ,turn back #c rows under the sole1 where they must be secured with a flat seam1 using a piece of the same kind of thread and a darning needle4 ,pick up the stitches at the base of the heel on to a knitting needle4 ,fasten the thread and knit a row4 ,then purl and knit alternate rows1 taking the first #b st together in every row until the st are reduced to one-third of those in the #ast row4 ,continue working a plain and a purl row alternately on these stitches1 increasing by picking up a loop at the end of each row from the side of the flap just worked1 until you have closed the heel1 and have the original number of stitches on the needle4 ,join to the sole part with a row of crochet chain stitches4 ,the ,toe ,part4 ,this is worked exactly like the heel1 picking up one-half of the st round the foot part4 ,knit the toe part as in the heel1 working back to close the toe in the same way1 then join to the front part with a row of chain stitches4 ,illustration3 ,band boxes covered with chintz to match the hangings give a pretty touch to a room4 ,a large bow of plain colour serves to lift the lid4 ,the waste paper receptacle matches the box4 ,how to ,re-heel a ,worn ,sock4 ,when the heel only becomes worn out in a hand-knitted sock or stocking1 it is an easy matter to replace the worn-out portion and the adjacent weak parts4 ,if possible1 let the mending thread be a little finer in texture than that used in the stocking1 and when not possible to match the thread in colour use white--in fact1 many people prefer white heels and toes in their hosiery4 ,we are illustrating a grey sock re-heeled with white to show clearly how the work is done4 ,run a coloured thread through each stitch at the base of the heel in a straight line from side to side4 ,in the same way run another piece of thread through the stitches at the top of the sole where it adjoins the heel 8closing0 portion1 that is from the first to the last stitch on the centre of the heel to where the stitches at each side of the heel were raised4 ,now count the number of rows in the heel before the 8closing0 was begun1 and the number of stitches at each side of the back seam after the closing was finished4 ,take a note of these1 as the piece re-knitted must fit exactly4 ,cut away the worn part that you wish to replace from the second row inside the marking thread1 and the second row from each side where the side stitches were taken up4 ,pick out the cut threads from each side of the heel until you come to the 8raised0 stitches1 which you may leave for the present as they cannot ravel4 ,pick out the cut threads from the rows inside the marking threads in the same way4 ,the marking thread should be through every stitch so that they cannot ravel4 ,take up the stitches at the base of the heel and re-knit exactly as it was before and close it in the same way4 ,tie the thread when the last row in the heel closing is done1 cut it and work the end in through the stitches4 ,thread a darning needle with a length of the same kind of thread and fasten the thread to the beginning of the heel at the right side4 99 ,run the needle behind the next of the 8raised0 stitches on the sole at the base of that stitch1 bring it back to the heel1 and running it inwards through the first stitch where it was brought out bring it out through the next heel stitch and repeat from 99 up to the stitches on the needle which are connected to those on the thread in the same way1 slipping off each stitch when joined4 ,work down the other side in the same way1 fasten off the thread and cut it4 ,work in the end of the thread through a few stitches4 ,remove the marking threads4 ,this heel will have no seam4 ,illustration ,slippers you can ,make4 ,footwear1 like everything else1 is exceedingly high-priced at present1 and to know how to economize in this direction is a serious problem4 ,but have you ever thought of making your slippers8 ,this is really quite possible4 ,indeed1 there is no reason why very presentable shoes and slippers cannot be made at home4 ,in nearly every household the materials are already at hand4 ,pieces of velvet1 tweed1 felt or cloth are all suitable1 and to show what can be done in this way we illustrate here two pairs of comfortable slippers made from oddments4 ,the first is a neat pair made from a piece of left-over dress material1 in black and white woollen check1 a bit of red flannel for lining and some navy serge coating for the soles1 which are formed over the usual cardboard4 ,then the pair of men's slippers were built up on a pair of leather soles with fleecy lining4 ,grey tweed left over from making a boy's suit was utilised1 and a scrap of blue flannel shirting forms the lining4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,pair ,,of ,,men',s ,,slippers4 ,illustration3 ,,slippers ,,made ,,from ,,check ,,material4 ,you will probably see the advantage of making these at home1 and any comfortable old slipper can be cut up for a pattern4 ,they are made in the same way if you make the soles yourself1 but with the purchased slipper sole there is a slight difference in the manner of attaching the upper4 ,the ,check ,slippers4 ,in cutting the upper1 no turnings will need to be allowed for the upper edge1 but allow a margin of a quarter-inch around the side which comes next to the sole4 ,cut both lining and material the same size4 ,the ,sole4 ,cut this out in stiff cardboard1 then cut a covering for it from the lining material1 allowing a half-inch margin all round4 ,place the cardboard on the centre1 and draw the edges of the lining together from opposite sides with crossing stitches1 using stout linen thread for this purpose and a coarse sewing needle4 ,the cardboard must be covered smoothly and securely with the flannel and gatherings made at the heel and toe parts4 ,the upper side of this sole is the inside of the shoe1 and the stitching underneath4 ,now lay this sole on another piece of cardboard1 and cut out the shape again just one-eighth of an inch larger all round4 ,lay this on the felt or piece of tweed intended for the outer sole and cut out the shape4 ,take the cardboard pattern for this sole and cut away a quarter-inch margin around4 ,this smaller shape is put between the inner and outer soles when making up the shoe4 ,stitch up the side seams in material and lining4 ,press both seams out flat1 place opposite to each other and tack the lining along the top edge to the check material4 ,now bind the edges together with a strip of ribbon or narrow tape4 ,it is as well to stiffen the back of the slipper a little with an interlining of thin cardboard or tailor's canvas4 ,now take up the flannel covered sole and place the upper over it1 having the smooth side of the sole turned from you2 sew the edge of the upper very securely to the wrong side of the sole1 putting the stitches into the flannel only1 and about an eighth of an inch from the extreme edge4 ,lay the small cardboard sole over the one just put in and secure it with a couple of stitches1 place the tweed sole on top of it with its edge overlapping evenly all round4 ,using thick black thread1 the stronger the better1 slip-stitch the sole through the inside edge to the upper where it turns in under the first sole4 ,it is necessary to notch the edge of the cardboard stiffening where it overlaps the sole1 in order to make it lie flat4 ,the ,men's ,slippers4 ,the same directions apply to these with the exception of the mode of attaching the ready-made sole4 ,turn in both edges of the uppers and tack securely around1 then top-sew together1 place over the sole and stitch the sewn edges to the middle section of the sole1 turning back the leather edge for this purpose4 ,no binding was used for this slipper1 but the lining had its edge turned in as well as the material1 then the lining was tacked with the turned in edge coming a little above the material so as to form a narrow piping around the top4 ,artistic ,crochet ,edited by ,,flora ,,klickmann ,contains beautiful designs in ,crochet for useful and decorative purposes4 ,it is uniform with this volume1 and issued by the same publishers4 ,mending a ,man's ,shirt4 ,illustration3 ,,cuffs ,,for ,,attaching ,,to ,,white ,,shirts4 ,one of the many expensive necessaries in these expensive days is a man's white shirt4 ,in many cases the finished article is treble the price it was in #aiad4 ,this is partly due1 of course1 to the increase in the cost of labour1 as there is a considerable amount of skilled work entailed in the cutting out and putting together of a man's white shirt4 ,and the high price is partly to be accounted for by the increased cost of materials4 ,but with all the care in the world1 shirts will still wear out1 and must somehow be replaced4 ,fortunately this difficulty is not such a serious one as it at first appears2 a shirt can quite easily be renovated--and without having that amateurish look that so often just spoils things4 ,repairing ,shirt ,tails4 ,the first parts to go1 very often1 in a man's shirt are the tails4 ,well1 the simplest way to deal with this is to cut them off right across1 above the weak places4 ,this is really far more satisfactory than patching4 ,a piece of calico or longcloth from another discarded article is not difficult to get4 ,measure the same size as the portion cut off4 ,hem round three sides4 ,run and fell the fourth side to the shirt itself4 ,perhaps you did not know1 as ,i did not myself until recently1 that many of the essential details which go to make up the shirt1 can be purchased separately4 ,in this way a weak front or collar1 or the cuffs can be removed1 a new one substituted1 and you have a new shirt without its cost4 ,illustration3 ,,two ,,kinds ,,of ,,collar ,,bands4 ,cuffs are parts that soon show signs of wear1 and frayed cuffs gives the shirt--and the man--a weary look4 ,in this case1 unpick the cuffs if possible1 if not1 cut them off close up4 ,the new cuffs can be bought into which the sleeve is inserted1 and the shirt regains its sprightly appearance4 ,at the time of writing1 the price of these cuffs is #f;d4 and #h;d4 per pair1 and the result is well worth this small expenditure4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,front ,,for ,a ,,shirt ,,fastening ,,at ,,the ,,back4 ,another method of repairing the cuffs is to cut off the frayed cuff1 and put on a narrow band4 ,in this case1 separate cuffs would be worn4 ,you do not even need to make these bands yourself4 ,they can be bought ready for use4 ,about ,collar ,bands4 ,most women have1 at one time or another1 struggled with the shirt collar-bands of their menfolk4 ,when it is your first one1 you start off quite happily4 ,after all1 you say1 it is a simple matter to cut such a band1 and will only require a small piece of material4 ,but you soon find out that it is not so simple as it looks1 and1 being shaped1 needs more material than you had thought for4 ,and when you have finished it1 you have neither satisfied yourself1 nor the owner of the shirt4 ,men often assume a superior indifference to clothes1 but there are certain things about which no indifference is visible1 one being the collar band of their shirt4 ,collar-bands are cut in a scientific manner1 and even experienced workers1 knowing that they are not very easy to make1 will probably be as thankful as less advanced workers1 to buy them shaped and stitched1 ready for applying to the shirt4 ,these collar-bands can be bought singly or in half dozens1 and can be supplied opening at the front or back1 according to the fastening of the shirt for which they are needed4 ,the present price of these collar-bands is #c;d4 each4 ,they are made in white calico1 also in sateen for coloured shirts4 ,sidenote3 ,fronts that you can ,buy4 ,when ,buttonholes are ,torn4 8,but10 says someone1 8buttonholes are my trouble4 ,you can't1 surely1 buy new buttonholes to replace the broken ones80 ,true1 but the case is by no means hopeless4 ,if this is your difficulty two courses are open to you4 ,either refront the shirt1 or else an additional front can be worn outside the white shirt4 ,this latter plan would perhaps be too warm in the summer1 though an extra front is a useful addition in the winter4 ,the use of separate fronts and cuffs help to solve the ever-present laundry problem1 as these can be sent to the laundry for stiffening and polishing1 while the unstiffened shirts can be washed at home1 thus effecting a very considerable saving in expense4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,front ,,for ,a ,,shirt ,,fastening ,,in ,,front4 ,if1 however1 the separate front is objected to1 you can buy fronts for letting into worn shirts4 ,there are two kinds1 the front in one piece for shirts fastening at the back1 and the dividing front for shirts fastening in front4 ,these are supplied square1 as shown in the illustration4 ,there are two qualities1 price #i;d4 and #a_/-4 ,to apply the new front1 first tack it on to the old front1 then cut it to the shape required1 allowing sufficient margin to turn in a fell4 ,then cut away the unnecessary material at the back from the shirt1 leaving here sufficient to turn in a fell4 ,in this way you have practically a new shirt again4 ,these are the portions that are most likely to show signs of stress and wear4 ,should any rents occur elsewhere1 a little patch must be added4 ,a ,patch may be ,necessary4 ,it is hardly necessary to remind you that it is better to mend and patch with material that is not quite new4 ,very often a pillow-case that is worn in one part will supply a sufficient amount of sound material for re-tailing a shirt4 ,in looking through the shirts of your menfolk1 you will probably find one wants a new collar-band1 another new cuffs1 another a front1 and so on4 ,they will not all need repairing in every direction4 ,but even if they did1 and you had to get several new portions for one shirt1 it would be well worth your while1 as the cost of these portions is very slight4 ,mending a ,collar4 ,men's collars are among those articles that one had come to regard as useless as soon as they are torn or worn1 and therefore at the first sign of disrepair to be replaced by new ones4 ,yet collars nowadays are a far more expensive item than they were a few years back2 a frequent supply of new collars means a considerable outlay4 ,before discarding the torn collar1 therefore1 it is well to see if it is not possible to repair it1 and it nearly always is possible4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,flap ,,tear ,,and ,,how ,,to ,,mend ,,it4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,buttonhole ,,tear ,,and ,,how ,,to ,,mend ,,it ,the tear usually occurs in the little projecting flap for the buttonhole1 either where this piece joins the main part of the collar1 or the buttonhole itself4 ,two such tears are illustrated4 ,now either of these can be very easily mended with a piece of tape4 ,first of all1 wash all the starch out of the collar4 ,when quite dry1 tack a small piece of tape over the tear1 as illustrated1 and machine it in place4 ,this makes a perfectly neat mend1 and is quite easy to do4 ,moreover when the collar is starched again1 the tape does not show4 ,the ,wisdom of ,preventive ,mending4 ,we do not1 nowadays1 spend long hours bending over fine stitchery that is destined for no really useful purpose4 ,to efficiently understand how to mend and how to make is our more practical aim4 ,a distinctive and imperative branch of this knowledge is the art of preventive mending4 ,from the gracious days of our grandmothers1 or our even more remote ancestors1 comes a lavender-scented remembrance of patiently executed needlework1 almost unbelievably fine2 wonderful samplers were made and monumental pictures depicting ,bible scenes were toiled over until the last of the innumerable stitches was filled in1 and the triumph ready to be framed and hung up on the wall of the best parlour4 ,some of us possess examples of these forgotten arts1 bead necklaces so finely constructed that1 entirely handmade and needle-threaded as they were1 they altogether surpass the pretty ornaments of the present day1 made upon apache looms4 ,samplers1 too1 we fondly cherish1 if we are fortunate enough to have had one or two handed down from mother to daughter in our family4 ,the ,day of the ,ready-,mades4 ,but life to-day is more strenuous2 the pride of the needlewoman must1 in the majority of cases1 have a more practical aim4 ,we do not despise the lavender-scented sweetness and tranquility--sometimes we even sigh for the qualities that can only come to perfection in days of unhurried calm--but we recognise the every-day usefulness of the modern needlewoman and applaud the sanity of her methods4 ,microscopic stitching is a delightfully interesting pursuit for the woman of leisure4 ,the busy girl or the house-mother1 harassed with many cares1 would not find such sewing a sedative for tense and weary nerves2 but the capable woman with quick1 deft fingers and mind alert1 finds it both interesting and exhilarating1 in its practicality1 to sit down and either make or mend something4 ,illustration3 ,children may be taught that darning is really quite an interesting occupation4 ,mending and altering are two branches of the great art of ,needlecraft which no woman can afford to despise in these days of ready-made frocks and shop-bought costumes4 ,turnings may be insufficient1 buttons sewn on with too scant stitches1 hooks and eyes trembling to fall off1 but these deficiencies very easily can be put to rights4 ,and the business girl would find herself sorely pressed for time to do the necessary shopping1 matching trimmings1 and the travelling to and from the dressmaker for fittings-on1 while not her time alone but her pocket also would seriously suffer if the ready-to-wear gowns and walking-suits were suddenly to be banished from our drapery stores4 ,a shop-bought costume that doesn't fit1 however1 isn't cheap at any price4 ,learn1 therefore1 how to make alterations in the most common-sense and practical fashion1 and take preventive measures1 before the garment is worn for the first time1 to overcome the little deficiencies that we may expect to discover in the 8ready-mades40 ,tools for the ,practical ,needlewoman4 ,chief among the aids for the practical needlewoman1 taking first rank among her valuable assistants1 comes the sewing-machine4 ,for hard wear and every-day use machine-stitching is generally much neater and stronger than hand sewing1 and the pace1 of course1 is far quicker4 ,her sewing-machine is a good friend to the busy woman who has most need to practise the art of preventive mending1 for strength and speed are two of her chief demands4 ,it pays to understand one's sewing-machine1 and to treat it with tender care4 ,rough usage1 or careless handling through ignorance of the rightful functions of the different delicate pieces may lead to dire disaster4 ,a handbook of instructions is always given when the machine is purchased3 cherish this book1 for if it is mislaid you are at sea without your chart4 ,the inexperienced girl who makes her early attempt to fathom the mysteries of the sewing-machine will find that a little personal instruction 7which may be had at the dept of her own make of machine7 will be more helpful than an hour spent in trying to solve intricate problems by the aid of the printed page4 ,later on1 however1 the printed directions will read lucidly enough when her mind is conversant with the everyday workings of the machine1 and an intelligent glance at her useful little handbook will disclose to her the cause and the remedy of the defective action4 ,keep the machine scrupulously clean and thoroughly well oiled4 ,to do this is again to recognise the wisdom of preventive measures4 ,an un-oiled1 dirty machine will always cause trouble in working1 for when the parts do not run smoothly1 dropped and uneven stitches are a frequent embarrassment4 ,illustration3 ,open and turn back1 so that when the oil has soaked through the clogged dirt it may be carefully cleaned away4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,sewing ,machine4 ,oil in every part1 and open and turn back so that when the oil has soaked through1 the clogged dirt may be carefully cleaned away4 ,a capacious mending basket is a necessity for the practical worker1 and it is all the more convenient if it stands upon legs1 table height1 and can be carried about to be stationed just within comfortable reach of the mender's right hand4 ,illustration3 ,her sewing-machine is a good friend to the busy woman who practises the art of preventive mending4 ,keep always some tailor's canvas for use as stiffening1 buckram for millinery1 white leno1 and fine black lining1 rolls of old linen and flannel for patching1 stray pieces of lace1 and left-over lengths of embroidery or insertions4 ,roll up all oddments in soft1 clean muslin with tape or label attached1 on which is written a list of the trifles to be found within your treasury4 ,if you frequently find your tape measure mislaid1 try this plan1 and thus prevent the long searching that interrupts your sewing4 ,cut as long a piece off your tape as will stretch from end to end of your machine1 and paste it along the front edge of the stand4 ,it thus will be always at hand when required1 and will serve at any rate for all the shorter measurements required4 ,it is a good plan to assemble your hooks and eyes on safety pins4 ,slip the opened pin through the separate hooks and eyes1 then when they are all securely dangling1 firmly close your safety pin1 and they are ready for use when needed and will not get tangled and twisted together as so often happens if they are kept in a box4 ,keep odd buttons in glass bottles4 ,no more hunting in the dark and dust6 ,you can see the button for which you are searching1 and by shaking the bottle can bring it near to the top1 where it can be easily reached4 ,bone or pearl buttons for underwear1 or any others that are not affected by exposure1 may be securely fixed upon a hairpin4 ,straighten out one of the long hairpins1 bend back one end about a quarter or half an inch1 run the point through the holes1 and when your buttons are neatly crowded together turn up the other end to hold them securely4 ,aids to ,strength and ,durability4 ,we have heard that in ,china it is the custom to pay the family doctor to keep his patients in good health rather than to call him in only after illness has laid the sufferer low4 ,many of us applaud this system1 but have neither the opportunity nor1 perhaps1 the courage1 to defy conventions in ,england4 ,but why not pursue the same wise course in dealing with household mending8 ,it works admirably4 ,take that proverbial stitch that 8saves nine0 in very good time1 even before there is any apparent need for for it1 and you'll find it will work miracles4 ,sidenote3 ,preventive ,mending4 ,stockings1 for instance4 ,the toes and heels of children's stockings may be neatly darned before they are worn for the first time1 for this purpose using crochet silk or mercerised thread1 which is less bulky and clumsy than wool4 ,insist on frequent change of hosiery1 and forbid the wearing of any stocking that shows even the tiniest hole4 ,to prevent those long running ladders which are almost impossible to mend1 sew a band of silk or cotton1 or a border cut from an old stocking1 round each hem of the new pair4 ,hose supporters 7chief cause of these destructive ladders7 will seldom cut through this double band4 ,or another excellent plan may be adopted4 ,take a round brass ring and double crochet closely over it to make a soft1 firm covering4 ,sew this securely into position upon the stocking top with neat1 strong stitches1 and always insert the clip of the suspender within this ring4 ,you will thus make it impossible for the tension to strain the stocking beyond the area enclosed by the ring4 ,in the knees of children's stockings small shields may be placed1 pieces cut from other stockings and fastened in so neatly that they are quite inconspicuous and not at all uncomfortable4 ,the 8ready-mades10 whether visiting frocks1 walking suits1 or underwear1 as was hinted in a previous paragraph1 cry out loudly for preventive mending4 ,for instance1 sleeves should be stitched in by machine1 for on ready-made clothes the machine stitching is not always carefully done1 and a weak place in the sleeve seam will quickly give way under strain and start an ugly tear4 ,embroidery with scalloped or pointed edging should be machined strongly all round the extreme edges1 the machine needle patiently following the circuitous course of the pattern4 ,this will double the life of embroidered lace1 preventing frayed untidiness and breaks1 gaps and tears4 ,to prevent an embroidery flounce from ragging out before the petticoat itself is any the worse for wear1 neatly hem the edge as soon as it threatens to fray or gets torn by an accidental mis-step1 and add a bordering of ,valenciennes or fine ,torchon lace4 ,buttons should receive careful attention when any ready-made garment is bought4 ,the trimness of effect and the general prettiness of coat or costume may be entirely spoilt if one of a set of distinctive buttons is allowed to drop off and get lost4 ,therefore sew on all buttons at the time of your purchase4 ,stitch carefully with a strong thread2 when you have sewn through and through the button half a dozen times1 wind your thread round and round the strands which hold the button1 between the button and the cloth1 making a sort of shank4 ,treat boot and shoe buttons in the same way4 ,it is wise to strengthen bed-linen with broad tape laid on at the corners1 inconspicuously stitched into position1 so that an added firmness is given to the sheets where the clothes-pegs might do most damage4 ,look closely into the wool-worked buttonholing at your blanket ends4 ,you may1 with advantage1 stitch fresh buttonhole edgings that will keep the neat turn-over1 when the blanket is in use1 for a longer time than if the shop-bought edging were left to suffice4 ,remember that half-an-hour spent weekly in preventive mending1 will save the busy housewife hours of darning and patching later on4 ,for ,keeping out the ,wind4 ,the value of old ,kid ,gloves4 ,with furs advanced #hj per cent4 in price in some cases1 and every sort of leather and skin at a premium1 it is evident that many who would like new furs1 and a leather waistcoat for motoring1 will have to forego these for a while1 now that such items have become so expensive4 ,those who are studying economy1 however1 will find an excellent substitute for the leather1 and the fur skins1 in the old kid gloves that have got beyond even the cleaner's kindly aid4 ,it is always the fingers and thumb that go2 the remainder of the glove will be a serviceable bit of kid4 ,these pieces can be used in a variety of ways1 and since they are impervious to wind1 they may save you many a chill--or more serious illness1--if you find a new thick winter coat beyond your purse in these hard times4 ,cut off the fingers and thumb1 remove the fasteners1 cut the glove up to the top at the front opening1 and spread it out flat--as you see in the small illustration4 ,there will be a little fulness at the thumb-pieces1 but this can be doubled over and stitched down flat4 ,illustration3 ,here is the piece of ,glove with the fingers cut off4 ,illustration3 ,this shows some of the gloves stitched on the flannel inter-lining4 ,perhaps your thickest coat is not nearly thick enough for the piercing east winds that come to us in the early part of the year1 finding out our weak spots4 ,for an ,under-coat or ,waistcoat4 ,if you wish to avoid the cost of a new big coat1 why not make a small sleeveless coat1 or a waistcoat to wear under your outdoor coat8 ,for this you will need about #a yards of silk for the outside1 some thin flannel for the interlining1 and some more silk1 or other suitable material for the lining4 ,i suggest silk1 because this slips on so easily1 and the outer coat1 in turn1 slips on easily over the silk waistcoat4 ,it takes so little material that in all probability you can get enough out of the silk lining of some discarded coat or underskirt4 ,then of course there are the old gloves4 ,cut out the silk1 outer and lining1 and the flannel1 by the same pattern4 ,deal with the flannel first4 ,onto this stitch the pieces of glove--they merely want pinning in place first of all1 and then run the machine round each fragment4 ,put them on as they will best cover the flannel1 it doesn't matter how irregular it all is1 so long as the flannel is completely covered4 ,it doesn't look elegant1 as you are doing it2 that again1 is unimportant1 as it is all hidden by the silk4 ,if you have not enough gloves for your needs1 a few bits of chamois leather will help you out4 ,then make up the little undercoat1 with the glove-covered flannel as interlining1 the kid against the lining1 and you will find you have something that keeps out the wind in a way a woollen hug-me-tight could never do4 ,and the glove-lined garment takes up so little room that it does not add to one's bulk2 in addition1 it is very light in weight--a great advantage4 ,the idea is capable of various developments4 ,a velvet stole edged with a little fur could be interlined in the same way4 ,it would be light and warm1 and a real comfort on cold days4 ,it is quite surprising how the kid interlining adds to the warmth of a garment4 ,a chest protector1 like the one we illustrate1 is invaluable for the girl who has a weak chest1 and is out in all weathers4 ,this again is quite easy to make4 ,in a garment like this1 or any large surface1 it is as well to run the machine down the material after the pieces are all joined up2 this 8quilts0 it and holds it together4 ,illustration3 ,the back portion is a little longer than the front4 ,illustration3 ,showing the front of the ,chest ,protector4 ,for ,men's ,waistcoats4 ,many men complain that they feel cold at their back1 even though they are wearing the thickest of vests4 ,this is probably due to the fact that the material used in making the back of the waistcoat is many degrees thinner than that used for the fronts4 ,the defect can be easily remedied1 however1 if you have three or four old pairs of gloves4 ,cut out a piece of stout black lining1 the size of the back piece of the waistcoat4 ,stitch the portions of the gloves to the wrong side of this lining4 ,they will not need to come below the strap at the waist-line4 ,then turn in the edges1 and apply this to the inside of the waistcoat 7glove pieces inside of course71 and run it neatly all round1 taking care that it does not show above the top of the waistcoat at the back4 ,it will keep it better in place if you run a line of stitching down the centre of the back1 from top to bottom1 after the lining has been run on all round4 ,you will have a perfectly neat looking garment that simply looks like a waistcoat with black lining at the back4 ,i advise this lining being put on by hand rather than by machine4 ,an ,apron you can make from a ,summer ,skirt4 ,the attractive little apron illustrated on this page has been made with the expenditure of very little time and trouble1 from a straight-gathered cotton voile skirt4 ,the simple gathered full type of skirt has been very popular for the summer frock during the last two or three years1 and when this has lost its freshness for dress wear1 the material will often be found to be in quite good enough condition to turn to account in the manner suggested4 ,at the top of the page the skirt is shown before its transformation2 the two lower figures give the front and back views of the apron when finished1 and you will see that it is quite a becoming little garment of the fashionable button-on-the-shoulder style1 with straps crossing at the back4 ,to make the apron1 first take your skirt and rip the gathers away from the band at the top1 measure #cj inches from the centre front of the skirt folded together1 and cut away the extra fulness from the back4 ,the larger portion you have then forms the apron4 ,if the skirt you are using happens to be one that fastens with a seam at the centre front1 it will be best to use the back of the skirt for the centre front of the apron1 to avoid a seam down the centre4 ,illustration3 ,the ,gathered ,skirt which was used for the making of the ,apron4 ,illustration3 ,the back and front views of the finished ,apron4 ,unless the skirt is a very short one1 you will find it will be quite long enough without making any alteration in the hem1 but as most skirts have a fairly deep hem1 it would be quite possible to let this down if necessary4 ,to form the curved sides for the under-arm1 measure #ab inches along the top edge from the centre front1 and cut a half-circle #g inches deep and #ab inches across in each side of the apron4 ,now take the piece you cut away from the back of the skirt1 and from this cut a straight double strip #ab inches long and #d inches deep for the front yoke band1 and two further double strips each #ag inches long and #d inches wide for the shoulder straps4 ,mitre one end of each of the shoulder straps and slant the other ends1 taking #b inches off the length for the outer edge of the strap4 ,if your skirt should not be full enough to give sufficient material for the double straps1 they could quite well be lined with some other material1 or could even be made a little narrower4 ,finish the back edges of the apron with narrow hems1 also the armholes4 ,gather the front and place between the double yoke band4 ,the backs are also gathered and placed between the slanting ends of the shoulder straps1 putting the shortest part of the strap towards the back4 ,cross the straps at the back of the apron1 and fasten the mitred ends to the yoke band with buttons and buttonholes4 ,your little apron is then complete4 ,illustration3 ,,spinning ,,with ,a ,,distaff ,,in ,,brittany4 ,photo by ,m4 ,parsons4 ,knitting ,your ,own ,woollen ,spencers4 ,provided you are fond of knitting and can work fairly quickly1 you will find it a great economy to make your own woollen spencers4 ,if you are careful to select wool of good quality1 you will be well rewarded for the time spent in making1 as hand-knitted woollens can always be relied upon to show less shrinkage with constant washing than even the most reliable makes of all-wool woven underwear4 ,here is a practical little design that is very easily made1 and very comfortable for wearing1 the cross-over front giving a double protection over the chest4 ,materials required4 #g ounces of #d-ply white ,a4,a4 8,peacock0 ,fingering1 and #d ,no4 #ac steel needles4 ,abbreviations used4 ,k knit2 p purl2 st stitch or stitches4 ,the ,back4 ,the body section is worked in one piece1 and is commenced from the back4 ,cast on #ajj st4 ,knit #bj rows of ribbing1 #a plain and #a purl alternately4 ,now commence working a plain and a purl row alternately1 knitting plain the first #d st and the last #d st of both the plain and the purl rows4 ,these plain stitches prevent the edges of the work from curling up1 and give a flat under-arm seam4 ,work #fj rows in this way1 increasing #a st in the #fth st from each end of every #aeth row4 ,continue for #e more rows1 which will bring you to the armhole4 #hfth ,row4--,cast off #ab st1 p to #d st from the end of the row1 k #d4 #hgth ,row4--,cast off #ab st1 k to the end of the row4 ,cast off #a st at the commencement of each of the next #d rows4 ,this should leave you with #hj st on the needle4 ,now work #di rows1 a plain and a purl row alternately1 slipping the #ast st of every row4 ,in these rows purl the return rows right across1 omitting the four plain st at each end4 ,n4,e4 ,d ,illustration3 ,the ,cross-over ,front gives a double protection over the chest4 ,the ,front4 ,to divide the st for the fronts1 k #cd st on to a spare needle1 cast off #ab st for the back of the neck1 and on the remaining #cd st work one front as follows3 #ast ,row4--,cast off #b st1 k to the end of the row4 #bnd ,row4--,slip #a1 p to the end of the row4 #crd ,row4--,cast off #b st1 k to the end of the row4 #dth ,row4--,slip #a1 p to the end of the row1 then cast on #f st to form the front border4 ,on these #cf st work #cj rows1 a plain and a purl row alternately1 working the #f border st plain in every row1 and slipping the #ast st when turning from the armhole edge4 ,in the next row increase #a st in the #gth st4 ,work #ce more rows1 and increase #a st in the #gth st from the border edge in every #fth row4 ,now in the next #d plain rows increase #a st in the #bnd st from the armhole edge1 and after working the next plain row cast on #ab st for the front of the armhole4 ,now work #fj rows1 a plain and a purl row alternately1 continuing the increasings from the front edge1 with #e rows between1 and working #d plain st in every row to form the seam from the armhole edge4 ,in the #cast and #east rows1 k the #fth and #gth st from the armhole edge together to decrease a little to shape for the waist4 ,work #bj rows of ribbing2 cast off4 ,reverse the directions for the right front4 ,illustration3 ,the ,body ,section when ready for joining up4 ,to finish the neck1 pick up the back of the #f st1 cast on for the border1 k #hj rows2 cast off4 ,stretch this strip round the back of the neck1 and sew into position4 ,sew up the 7,concluded on page #eb74 ,a ,child's ,knitted ,petticoat4 ,this little petticoat is made to fit a child of from four to five years1 and measures #bj inches from the neck to the lower edge of the skirt4 ,materials ,required4 ,five ounces of ,messrs4 ,j4 ,j4 ,baldwin's ,white 8,beehive0 #d-ply ,scotch ,fingering1 #a pair of long ,no4 #aj bone needles1 and a set of ,no4 #aa steel needles4 ,abbreviations ,used4 ,k knit2 ,p purl2 ,o over 7put the wool over and make a stitch72 ,n narrow 7knit two stitches together72 st stitch or stitches4 ,cast on #bia st4 #ast ,row4--,plain4 #bnd ,row4--,purl4 #crd ,row4--,k #b1 99 ,o1 ,k #d1 ,k #c together1 ,k #d1 ,o1 ,k #a1 repeat from 99 to the end of the row1 ending with ,k #b4 #dth ,row4--,plain4 ,repeat the #crd and #dth rows #cb times1 or until the skirt is the length required4 #fith ,row4--,k #f1 ,k #c together1 99 ,k #i1 ,k #c together1 repeat from 99 to the end of the row4 #gjth ,row4--,purl4 #gast ,row4--,k #e1 ,k #c together1 99 ,k #g1 ,k #c together1 repeat from 99 to the end of the row4 #gbnd ,row4--,purl4 #gcrd ,row4--,k #d1 ,k #c together 99 ,k #e1 ,k #c together1 repeat from 99 to the end of the row4 #gdth ,row4--,purl4 ,you should now have #adg st on the needle4 ,make a row of holes for the ribbon by repeating ,k #d1 ,o1 ,n1 all the way along and purling a return row4 ,illustration3 ,this will fit a child of #d-e years4 ,illustration3 ,it measures #bj inches from neck to lower edge4 ,the ,bodice4 ,knit #dh plain rows1 purling the #fth st from each end of the row on the right side of the work4 ,now divide for the armholes thus3 ,k #cf st on to a spare needle1 ,k #ge1 and slip the remaining #cf st on to a spare needle4 ,on the #ge centre st continue as follows3 ,k #a1 ,n1 ,k plain to the end of the row4 ,repeat this row #ba times1 then work #dj plain rows without decreasing4 ,this brings you to the neck of the petticoat4 ,to form the shoulder sections1 ,k #ae1 cast off #bc st 7or up to #ae st from the other end of the row71 #a on the remaining st1 ,k #cf rows4 ,cast off4 ,work up the other shoulder in the same way4 ,now on the #cf st at each side of the work1 knit up the backs to correspond with the front1 forming the armhole slopes by decreasing #a st in the first #i rows turned from the armhole edge in each case4 ,when working the backs1 cast off all the st when the neck is reached4 ,sew the shoulder strap from each side of the front to the #ae cast-off st from the armhole edge of each back1 and finish the neck by picking up all the loops along the edge and working #f rows of ribbing1 making holes for threading ribbon in the third row4 ,the ,sleeves4 ,pick up on to the ,no4 #ab needles all the loops round the armhole edge1 and work #bj rounds1 a plain and a purl round alternately1 in every other round decreasing #b st2 these decreasings should be made over the top of the armhole slope at each side1 thus forming a gusset for the under-arm4 ,finish with #f rows of ribbing4 ,woollen ,spencers 7,concluded from page #ej74 under-arm seams1 leaving a half-inch opening above the ribbing in the right-hand seam4 ,the ,sleeves4 ,pick up the loops round the armhole edge on to #c needles4 ,put #ah st from each side of the under-arm seam on to #a needle 7#cf st in all71 and divide the remaining loops on to the others4 ,work #e rounds1 then in the next round decrease #a st at each end of the under-arm needle4 ,repeat these #f rounds twice4 ,work for #h inches without decreasing1 then for the next #d inches decrease #a st at each end of the under-arm needle in every #fth row4 ,finish with #cj rows of ribbing1 and cast off4 ,if you wish to have elbow sleeves1 finish the sleeve with #ae rows of ribbing after working the #h inches without decreasing4 ,the bodice crosses over at the front1 and fastens with ribbon ties at the neck and waist4 ,thread the ribbon from the left front of the waist through the opening in the right-hand seam1 and make a slot over the left seam1 to correspond by knitting a small strap 7#ab rows on #d st71 and sewing it on to the seam just above the ribbing2 thread the ribbon from the right front through this1 and tie the ends together at the back4 ,a ,practical ,way to ,teach ,girls ,dressmaking4 ,some of the ladies who have headed sewing parties1 or collected garments for the soldiers and sailors1 during the past few years1 could a tale unfold of the mysterious articles that many very willing workers have produced in their anxiety to help4 ,no sooner was war declared than hundreds of women1 from every grade in society1 stepped forward1 ready to make something2 but what of the shirts #f ft4 long1 the neckbands made of flannel--not ones1 nor twos1 but dozens of them1 calling forth a special warning from the daily ,press8 ,and it must be borne in mind1 that many of these needlewomen must have passed through our schools--elementary or secondary--and have spent a couple of hours every week1 for six or seven years1 8learning needlework02 likewise1 the garments required were not novelties1 they are worn by men in time of peace as well as war4 ,such a result of 8learning needlework0 gives one 8furiously to think40 ,has the training in the schools fitted the girls for making and mending garments for themselves and others--remodelling old ones1 and generally using the needle as a help towards comfort and economy in the home8 ,this brings us to a very pertinent question4 ,is it possible to give the girls at school such a training in the cutting out and making of garments that the work loses it terrors1 and comes within the grasp of them all8 ,experience has proved that cutting out paper garments from elaborate diagrams1 bristling with 8inches in0 and 8inches down10 is of very small practical value4 ,the secret of success lies in getting the girls to measure a real wearer1 and then to make a pattern1 which they can properly 8try on0 for themselves1 from these measurements4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,girl ,,wearing ,,the ,,frock ,,she ,,has ,,made4 ,take1 for example1 the making of a frock1 such as the girl is wearing in the picture4 ,this child of twelve or thirteen1 was one of a class of thirty or forty1 in which every girl made a similar dress for herself4 ,all measuring1 making of patterns1 cutting out of the material1 fixing and sewing--everything in fact1 from beginning to end1 was done by the girls themselves4 ,to begin with1 they arranged themselves in pairs1 and each girl cut a yoke1 cuff and sleeve pattern for her companion4 ,it was not necessary to make a paper pattern of the skirt of the frock4 ,no material was cut until the patterns were satisfactory4 ,a yoke is an exceedingly useful and necessary part of many garments1 but it is not1 as a rule1 considered an easy thing to cut a pattern of one to fit a particular wearer2 but these girls found it simple enough1 by working on the following plan4 ,the illustration shows one girl taking the neck ,illustration3 ,,the ,,first ,,measurement ,,for ,,the ,,yoke4 measurement of her friend2 this is the only one required for cutting the pattern4 ,it should be found1 by holding the tape loosely around the neck1 so that the head moves easily with it in position4 ,illustration3 ,,testing ,,the ,,yoke ,,pattern4 ,an oblong piece of paper--newspaper will serve quite well--measuring the neck length one way and one-and-a-half times the same the other1 was then cut out4 ,thus1 if the neck is #ab in41 the paper will be #ab in4 by #ah in4 7,see ,fig4 #a74 ,the method adopted of getting the yoke from this1 will be seen by following each step in the sketches4 ,the two shorter sides were folded together as in ,fig4 #b1 forming a double piece4 ,the two top corners were brought over until they met in the middle1 as in ,fig4 #c1 and then the triangular pieces cut off1 leaving a double piece1 as in ,fig4 #d4 ,care must be taken in the next step to bring the slanting edge 7,a7 next to the two open straight edges1 over to the bottom edges ,d2 thus ,a and ,d lie exactly over each other1 and the second slanting edge ,b covers the fold ,c4 ,illustration3 ,,getting ,,the ,,width ,,of ,,the ,,sleeve4 ,sidenote3 ,taking the ,measurements4 ,the pattern begins now to look something like a yoke1 and is soon complete4 ,two pieces must be cut off1 one to form the neck and the other the shoulder4 ,fig4 #f shows clearly how this is done1 and when it is finished a yoke pattern1 as in ,fig4 #g1 is the result4 ,the illustration gives some idea of the 8fit0 of a yoke cut in this way4 ,the girls were very critical about the neck and shoulder curves1 and the width across the back and front2 many little alterations were made before the pattern was considered satisfactory1 and good enough to cut out the material from4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,under-,,arm ,,length ,,of ,,the ,,sleeve4 ,having made a satisfactory yoke pattern1 the next thing to tackle was the sleeve4 ,an oblong piece of paper was again necessary1 and its dimensions were found in the manner shown in the two pictures4 ,the measure was slipped loosely around the top of the arm1 and three or four inches added to allow for the arm movement4 ,this gave the width required1 and the length was found by holding the measure on the top of the shoulder1 as the girl is doing in the illustration1 and then carrying it around the bent elbow to the wrist4 ,illustration3 ,,finding ,,the ,,length ,,of ,,the ,,sleeve4 ,illustration3 ,,taking ,,the ,,wrist ,,measurement4 ,when this oblong was folded in half1 lengthwise1 it faintly resembled a sleeve1 but1 to shape it properly1 two other dimensions were necessary4 ,the next two photographs show the girls getting them4 ,the length of the under-arm sleeve is about three quarters of the full length1 and the wrist the same fraction of the width at the top of the arm4 ,the girls discovered these things for themselves1 and marked with the rounded end of the scissors1 a slightly curved line from the wrist to the under-arm position4 ,this double piece was then cut away4 ,the shaping of the top of the sleeve requires a little more judgment and care4 ,the pattern was opened out flat1 and a convex curve made from one side to the top1 joining a slightly concave one starting from the other4 ,thus they obtained the foundation of any sleeve pattern4 ,it can easily be made wider or narrower1 longer or shorter1 according to the dictates of fashion4 ,as the frock the girls made on this occasion had sleeves with cuffs1 two or three inches deep1 the pattern was shortened accordingly1 before the material was cut4 ,the girls were only beginners1 so they cut patterns of the collar and cuffs in paper1 and fitted all the parts on the material before cutting out4 ,the cuff and waistband were straight pieces of material cut to the required sizes4 ,illustration3 ,,making ,,the ,,yoke ,,pattern4 ,sidenote3 ,cutting out the ,pattern4 ,for the collar pattern1 the neck length was taken1 as for the yoke pattern1 and an oblong piece of paper cut out1 this length one way and half of it the other4 7,see ,fig4 #a74 ,this was folded in half to form a square1 and creased across the middle1 as in the diagram4 ,one of the two open corners was folded over to the crease1 and the triangular pieces thus formed were cut off1 as in ,fig4 #c4 ,a curved line was next marked1 connecting one end of the slanting edge1 ,a1 with the bottom end1 ,c1 of the fold4 ,by measuring the length of the slanting edge ,a1 ,b1 along the fold1 a new point ,d was found1 and a curve was made parallel to the first curve1 connecting ,b and ,d 7,see ,fig4 #d74 ,the double paper was cut along the curves1 and thus the pattern of half the collar was obtained4 ,illustration3 ,,making ,,the ,,collar ,,pattern4 ,it was found that the collar for the frock fitted better when made in two parts and in double material4 ,thus1 in cutting out the cloth1 four pieces1 the size and shape of the pattern1 were required4 ,the length required for the skirt was found by fitting on the yoke pattern1 and then measuring from the middle of the front straight down1 adding two or three inches for the hem4 ,the frock in the illustration was made from double width serge1 and it was found practicable to get the skirt from one-and-a-half widths1 the other half serving for the yoke4 ,the pair of sleeves came out of a full width4 ,this planning and arranging involved no end of simple but interesting calculation1 and the reality of it all made a strong appeal to the girls4 ,one point of supreme importance was most carefully impressed--that was--8the way of the cloth02 certainly1 if this goes wrong1 the garment is ruined1 and just as certainly it is a thing that will never be mastered 8theoretically0--it must be learnt by actually cutting out of material4 ,the cutting of the sleeves from one pattern is another bit of 8practical politics0 which arises when a garment such as this is being made4 ,there is no reason why the pair should not be cut together1 so long as the two right1 or two wrong sides are placed together4 ,the use of ,french chalk for marking out the pattern on the cloth was encouraged4 ,the making up of the frock afforded many opportunities for practice in neat1 strong stitching1 combined with beauty4 ,suitable cottons and needles were used1 nothing finer than ,no4 #dj cotton will stand the wear and tear of every-day life4 ,where possible1 the sewing machine was used1 but the parts sewn with it were first carefully tacked4 ,the question of decoration aroused no end of discussion and interest the whole time the frocks were being made1 and urged many a slow worker on to greater efforts4 ,the yokes1 cuffs and collars were stitched with contrasting coloured thread1 and the variety of decoration was delightful4 ,simple hand-worked stitches are generally more effective1 as well as more economical1 than bought trimmings4 ,of course1 any difficult stitch or piece of fixing--for example1 the placing of the box pleats--was always practised on a piece of 8scrap0 material or paper1 before the frock was tackled2 but when the young needlewomen realised they were 8trying0 a stitch or a piece of fixing1 because they needed to use it in the making of the frock1 they put a good deal more zest into the work than if it was a mere 8needlework exercise40 ,no new material was ever torn up for these practices--odd bits of any shape or size were used1 and a bag of such pieces was always at hand1 in sewing lesson1 for this purpose4 ,on the score of both economy and efficiency1 one would plead that the tearing up of good flannel and calico for the 8sewing lesson0 should be rigidly tabooed4 ,probably no other subject offers such unique opportunities in our schools for inculcating habits of thrift and economy1 with increased efficiency in the teaching4 ,the distress of nations1 with its awful promise of misery and poverty in the future1 gives this branch of a girl's education an added importance4 ,surely we must neglect no opportunity of improving it6 ,books of ,cheerfulness ,by ,,flora ,,klickmann ,,the ,,flower-,,patch ,,among ,,the ,,hills ,,and ,,between ,,the ,,larch ,,woods ,,and ,,the ,,weir ,overflowing with humour1 bubbling with smiles1 yet never out of sound of the soughing of the pines1 the scold of the squirrel1 the call of the birds1 and the delicious pungent scent of wood-smoke4 ,books to laugh over1 to think over1 and to be thankful for4 ,the ,art of ,blouse ,making4 ,with an up-to-date pattern and good material1 the making of one's own blouses is but a delightful pastime1 as well as a very profitable one4 ,the material for the blouse shown here cost very little1 just a few shillings would1 in fact1 pay for the paper pattern1 two yards of the material1 a dozen little bone rings and two yards of narrow velvet ribbon for the lacings1 but the cost of a similar blouse ready-made would be at least four times as much4 ,the various pieces were all cut out by a paper pattern1 which was pinned on the material1 and on which there was an allowance of a quarter inch margin4 ,the collar1 cuffs1 and yoke were cut double4 ,the last three items had their edges all turned inwards1 to the depth of the margin allowed1 then both pieces of each were tacked together with their edges perfectly even4 ,the little turned back cuff had the two pieces stitched together on the wrong side on the outer edge and sides1 then turned inside out and the edges tacked flat4 ,the inside edge was tacked in between the two pieces of the large cuff and secured with a row of stitching4 ,illustration3 ,the ,blouse is fastened with eyelet holes and ribbon velvet4 ,the sleeves were joined with a ,french seam1 then both ends were turned into a narrow hem1 which was tacked carefully4 ,the edge at the lower end was gathered to fit the cuff with top stitch set evenly1 and for this the same kind of thread as used in the faggoting was employed4 ,the fronts had the edges cased with a piece of the material for a depth of two inches4 ,the back was joined to the fronts in the underarm seam by a ,french seam as in the sleeve1 then the entire top portion of back and front and the armholes were turned into a narrow hem1 and tacked securely1 the front edges gathered as in the sleeve1 to fit the yoke4 ,narrow strips of stiff paper were tacked underneath the lines where the different parts were to be joined1 and then the faggoting was commenced by beginning at the right front edge1 as shown on this page4 ,bring out the thread through the edge of the yoke1 carry it down in a straight line to top front edge1 and insert the needle down through the material1 bring it out above the stitch just formed1 which you draw up evenly1 now repeat this stitch through the edge of the yoke one-eighth of an inch from the first stitch1 and so on from one side to the other4 ,make all joining in the thread on the back of the hem4 ,when the faggoting is finished1 the hems are worked with a row of stem stitch1 which keeps them in place and gives a neat finish4 ,the eyelet holes were next worked1 and the method is shown in the diagram4 ,quarter-inch bone rings are used4 ,place each in position on the material and tack around1 then work over in close buttonhole stitch1 having the top of the stitches resting on the material4 ,the centre of the eyelet hole is cut away on the back4 ,the front and cuffs are laced through these holes1 which are set opposite each other1 with narrow velvet4 ,at the waist line there is a narrow casing of muslin on the inside1 to take the tape1 tie-string or elastic1 and the lower end is neatly hemmed4 ,the edges of the collar1 cuffs1 etc41 may have a row of machine1 or hand stitching on the right side1 or they may be joined by stitching on the wrong side and then turned out4 ,illustration3 ,this shows the method of faggoting1 the stem-stitched hem1 and the raised eyelet hole4 ,decorative ,stitches for ,children's ,clothes4 ,how to decorate the simple garments made at home is a question one frequently meets4 ,illustration3 ,,some ,,pretty ,,effects ,,in ,,tacking ,,stitch4 ,children's overalls and frocks1 little boys' tunics1 and blouses for the elder girls1 usually need some trimming or decoration1 and it is often difficult to find just the right kind4 ,this is especially the case with coloured garments1 and those for which lace is unsuitable4 ,many people like a little embroidery1 but it is not always easy to get an entirely suitable pattern4 ,some require more time than the home worker is able to give1 and some are more elaborate than is desirable for the garment4 ,a simple kind of stitchery is usually resorted to1 and very often meets the case1 and one may see little frocks and tunics of inexpensive materials1 with quite a note of distinction given by the pretty stitching on the hems and bands4 ,the favourite and most frequently seen among the stitches so used1 are the ,french knot1 stem stitch and feather stitch4 ,it is with the idea of suggesting other stitches and arrangements1 that these diagrams and illustrations are given1 and with attention to a very few simple directions1 the most diffident worker may be sure of a good result4 ,one feature of decorative stitchery of this kind1 is that it may also be constructional1 that is1 that where a hem is to be decorated1 it need not first be stitched with the machine1 the decoration does the work of the machine4 ,this point is not always realised by the home worker1 who usually makes the garment with the sewing machine1 and then proceeds to decorate it1 adding ,french knots and perhaps stem stitch to hide the machining4 ,some machining is often necessary1 but much can be dispensed with1 without detriment to the garment1 and this makes it possible to do1 at any rate1 part of the home dressmaking1 away from the noise and busy atmosphere almost inseparable from a room dominated by a sewing machine4 ,illustration3 ,,effective ,,borders ,,for ,,children',s ,,frocks4 ,in making a little magyar overall1 like that illustrated1 for instance1 the side seams and opening may be sewn with a machine1 the hems and neck prepared as if for machining1 and then the decoration applied4 ,the home worker1 whose husband has a rooted objection to having a sewing machine at work when he comes home in the evening1 cuts out and machines part of her work during the day1 and has only the pleasant part to do by hand in the evening1 while she is free to talk1 or listen to the day's news4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,belt and ,sleeves4 ,the value of the simple tacking stitch as a trimming is not fully realised4 ,on another page are shown some very distinctive effects in this stitch1 and in the frock illustrated the stitch is used in conjunction with the ,y stitch which is shown and described4 ,the worker who has not yet used the tacking stitch as a decorative stitch must be careful on a few points1 however4 ,the stitch must not be too long1 and the length and spacing must be as even as possible4 ,a novice might make an experiment on a little garment of brown calico1 holland or cru-coloured casement cloth4 ,illustration3 ,,how ,,the ,,hem ,,and ,,sleeves ,,are ,,finished4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,stitches ,,used ,,for ,,the ,,belt ,,of ,,the ,,child',s ,,frock4 ,turn up the hems on the right side of the garment1 and with turkey-red embroidery cotton of medium thickness1 make the first row of tacking about where the hem would be machined4 ,the first row is the most important and needs the most care4 ,illustration3 ,to show method of working4 ,y stitch4 ,,the ,,stitch ,,that ,,is ,,combined ,,with ,,tacking ,,stitch ,,on ,,the ,,frock ,,below4 ,as a general rule no tacking stitch used as a decoration should be more than half-an-inch in length1 and the space between proportionately less4 ,the space between may be equal to the stitch1 or may be half or a quarter its length1 but neither stitch or space should be longer than half-an-inch1 or the result may be a series of long threads1 apt to become loops if suddenly caught4 ,for the experiment1 make the stitches about one-third of an inch1 and the space between either the same or very small--about one-tenth of an inch4 ,an inch measure at hand to test the first few stitches will quickly help the eye to guess the correct length of the remainder without effort4 ,after the first row1 the most difficult part is over1 as the second and succeeding rows will be exactly the same length4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,child',s ,,frock ,,decorated ,,with ,,tacking ,,stitch ,,and ,y ,,stitch4 ,three rows of stitching close together will result in a pattern of red oblongs1 with regular spaces between them4 ,these may become squares if more rows are added4 ,all the illustrations on pages #fa and #fb are based on the tacking stitch1 and may be applied to the decoration of a hem1 or the border of belt or neck4 ,sidenote3 ,pretty ,fancy ,stitches4 ,an illustration on page #fc shows the treatment of the two-inch hem on the child's frock4 ,the vertical bar repeated at regular intervals round the hem is filled with a variation of the ,y stitch1 the working of which is shown in diagrams ,a1 ,b and ,c on page #fd4 ,the pattern should be arranged on the sleeves1 neck and belt1 as shown in the sketch4 ,the position of each vertical bar should be accurately measured1 and marked with a pencil1 and a line drawn down the centre of each bar will help to keep the stitch equal on each side4 ,illustration3 ,,some ,,variations ,,of ,,the ,y ,,stitch4 ,the working of this stitch is shown on page #gj4 ,part ,,ii4 ,household ,economies and ,fancy ,finishes4 ,the ,nursery ,casement ,curtain4 ,a very delightful little casement curtain is shown on page #ie4 ,this would be eminently suitable for the ,animal and ,bird ,nursery1 and will appeal to a child2 and these little muslin curtains with filet crochet tops are so very effective both from inside and outside the window4 ,as will be seen1 the crochet presents no difficulty1 but it must be done evenly to look well4 ,a diagram is given for working the strip1 from which the open and solid meshes can be counted4 ,the heading on the curtain shown is worked in ,ardern's ,no4 #cf cotton4 ,this measures #ae inches wide by #c inches deep4 ,to make this a little longer or deeper1 a coarser cotton could be used1 though1 of course1 much depends on the individual worker as to the size it actually works out4 ,but filet crochet is best done as closely as possible4 ,two of these little curtains would be wide enough for some windows1 but it will be quite easy to repeat the design1 or part of it1 if required4 ,double crochet is worked along the top and bottom of the curtain strip to give a nice firm edge4 ,if quite a narrow curtain strip is preferred1 the insertion showing the two ducks and the rabbit repeated1 would be good4 ,or this insertion could be used at the bottom of a little curtain1 providing there is little or no fulness in the curtain4 ,if used at the bottom of a full curtain1 the design would1 of course1 be completely lost4 ,this narrower insertion would also look very pretty to trim a white cloth for the tray or table1 and it could either be let in round the sides of the cloth1 or a strip would look well let in across each corner4 ,the cock and duck insertion is one that would be very effective where a strip is wanted to hang lengthwise down the sides of a curtain1 or for any other purpose where a lengthwise strip is required4 ,a separate diagram is not included for this1 as this is merely a different arrangement of the birds1 and the illustration is sufficiently large for the number of meshes between each pattern to be counted4 ,illustration3 ,an ,insertion that can be used lengthwise on a ,curtain4 ,the ,advantage of ,coloured ,knitting ,cottons4 ,many people do not care for all-white quilts and bedspreads1 considering them cold-looking1 even though they undoubtedly give a look of freshness to a bed1 when they are first put on4 ,and there can be no doubt but what there is a need for colour in our furnishings no less than in our dress1 in our dull climate4 ,white bedspreads look charmingly cool and refreshing on a hot1 sunny ,july day--but alas1 so few of our days1 even in ,july1 are hot and sunny2 and there are all the other months of the year to be provided for4 ,hence the vogue of the coloured bedspread1 with its splashes of pink1 or blue1 or heliotrope flowers and green leaves on a white ground4 ,now that knitting has returned to us1 and will undoubtedly stay1 we find a revival of the knitted quilt of our grandmother's day4 ,but once more the objection is raised that the all-white quilt1 while undoubtedly handsome1 looks chilly1 and shows every slightest mark4 ,few people know what pretty effects can be obtained from white knitting combined with colour4 ,strutt's 8,milford0 ,knitting ,cotton comes in several dozen very pretty shades1 all guaranteed to wash well4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,bedspread ,,in ,,blue ,,and ,,white4 ,sidenote3 ,a ,leaf ,cluster ,pattern4 ,the counterpane here illustrated is in pale blue and white1 and is quite a feature in a pale blue bedroom4 ,other colours you can obtain are various pinks1 greens1 pale cream1 with the intervening tones right up to full orange1 heliotrope1 salmon1 half-a-dozen different blues1 from palest forget-me-not to navy blue1 crimson1 fawn1 and various tints of brown4 ,but1 undoubtedly1 for bedspread purposes1 there is nothing like the pinks or the blues4 ,it is best to use patterns that are worked in separate diamonds or squares1 and joined later on4 ,this saves a tanglement of various balls1 as is inevitable if several colours are all going at once on a large piece of work4 ,when the work is in squares1 each alternate square can be in colour2 when the work is in diamonds1 that begins with one stitch and increase each row till the widest point1 and then decrease to the opposite point4 ,half the diamond is worked in white1 and when the widest point is reached the cotton is broken off and the coloured ball joined on1 the remaining half being worked in colour4 ,the pattern here illustrated is the old fashioned leaf-cluster so often seen in ancient knitted counterpanes4 ,the bedspread is worked in small diamonds1 which are joined together by over-sewing4 ,use ,strutt's 8,milford0 ,knitting ,cotton ,no4 #h1 in white and in pale blue 7or any other colour required71 and a pair of ,no4 #ad steel needles4 ,abbreviations ,used4 ,k knit a plain stitch2 ,p purl2 ,o over1 that is1 bring the thread forward and pass it over the right hand needle1 in order to make an extra stitch2 ,n narrow1 that is1 knit two stitches together4 ,with the white cotton1 cast on one stitch4 #ast ,row4--,k #c stitches into the one stitch cast on4 #bnd ,row4--,o1 ,k1 ,o1 ,k1 ,o1 ,k4 #crd ,row4--,o1 ,k1 ,p #c1 ,k #b4 #dth ,row4--,o1 ,k #c1 ,o1 ,k1 ,o1 ,k #c4 #eth ,row4--,o1 ,k #b1 ,p #e1 ,k #c4 #fth ,row4--,o1 ,k #e1 ,o1 ,k1 ,o1 ,k #e4 #gth ,row4--,o1 ,k #c1 ,p #g1 ,k #d4 #hth ,row4--,o1 ,k #g1 ,o1 ,k1 ,o1 ,k #g4 #ith ,row4--,o1 ,k #d1 ,p #i1 ,k #e4 #ajth ,row4--,o1 ,k #i1 ,o1 ,k1 ,o1 ,k #i4 #aath ,row4--,o1 ,k #e1 ,p #aa1 ,k #f4 #abth ,row4--,o1 ,k #aa1 ,o1 ,k1 ,o1 ,k #aa4 #acth ,row4--,o1 ,k #f1 ,p #ac1 ,k #g4 #adth ,row4--,o1 ,k #g1 cast off one 7i4e41 slip a stitch on to the right hand needle without knitting it1 knit the next stitch1 draw the slipped stitch over the knit one71 ,k #i1 ,n1 ,k #g4 #aeth ,row4--,o1 ,k #g1 ,p #aa1 ,k #h4 #afth ,row4--,o1 ,k #h1 cast off #a1 ,k #g1 ,n1 ,k #h4 #agth ,row4--,o1 ,k #h1 ,p #i1 ,k #i4 #ahth ,row4--,o1 ,k #i1 cast off #a1 ,k #e1 ,n1 ,k #i4 #aith ,row4--,o1 ,k #i1 ,p #g1 ,k #aj4 #bjth ,row4--,o1 ,k #aj1 cast off #a1 ,k #c1 ,n1 ,k #aj4 #bast ,row4--,o1 ,k #aj1 ,p #e1 ,k #aa4 #bbnd ,row4--,o1 ,k #aa1 cast off #a1 ,k1 ,n1 ,k #aa4 #bcrd ,row4--,o1 ,k #aa1 ,p #c1 ,k #ab4 #bdth ,row4--,o1 ,k #ab1 knit #c stitches together1 ,k #ab4 #beth ,row4--,o1 ,k to end of row4 #bfth1 #bgth1 #bhth and #bith ,rows4--,like #beth ,row4 ,break off white cotton at end of #bith ,row1 and join on the blue cotton4 #cjth ,row4--,knit the whole row2 end with the last #b stitches knit together4 #cast ,row4--,purl1 ending with the last #b stitches purled together4 #cbnd ,row4--,like #cjth4 #ccrd and #cdth ,rows4--,like #cast4 #ceth ,row4--,like #cjth4 #cfth ,row4--,like #cast4 #cgth ,row4--,like #cjth4 ,repeat from #cjth ,row twice over1 making #c times in all4 ,then continue working the purl and plain knitting for alternate rows till you have only one stitch left4 ,break off the blue cotton and cast off4 ,in joining the diamonds1 use white cotton when uniting the white portions1 and blue cotton for the blue portions4 ,illustration3 ,y ,,stitch ,,and ,,loop ,,stitch ,,and ,,their ,,variations4 ,see the article on page #fa4 ,the ,cynthia ,knitted ,stripe4 ,suitable for a ,toilet ,runner4 ,abbreviations ,used4 ,k knit a plain stitch2 ,p purl2 ,o over1 that is1 bring the thread forward to the front of the work1 and pass it round over the right hand needle1 in order to make an extra stitch2 ,n narrow1 that is1 knit two stitches together2 ,s slip a stitch4 ,use ,strutt's ,knitting ,cotton1 ,no4 #h1 #c threads1 and a pair of ,no4 #ab steel needles4 ,cast on #ia stitches for a runner1 about #ab inches wide1 or #aah for a runner #af inches wide4 ,if something wider than this is needed1 cast on multiples of #bg1 with an extra #aj stitches4 ,illustration ,notice that after the first piece of plain knitting1 each alternate row is like the #aith4 ,knit #ah rows plain4 #aith ,row1 and each alternate row4--99 ,s #a1 ,k #i1 ,p #ag4 ,repeat from 99 till only #aj stitches remain on needle4 ,knit these #aj plain4 #bjth ,row4--99 ,s #a1 ,k #aj1 ,o1 ,n1 ,o1 ,n1 ,k #d1 ,o1 ,n1 ,o1 ,n1 ,k #d4 ,repeat from 991 ,k #aj4 #bast ,row4--,like #aith4 #bbnd ,row4--99 ,s #a1 ,k #aa1 ,o1 ,n1 ,o1 ,n1 ,k #d1 ,o1 ,n1 ,o1 ,n1 ,k #c4 ,repeat from 991 ,k #aj4 #bdth ,row4--,s #a1 ,k #ab1 ,o1 ,n1 ,o1 ,n1 ,k #d1 ,o1 ,n1 ,o1 ,n1 ,k #b4 ,repeat from 991 ,k #aj4 #bfth ,row4--99 ,s #a1 ,k #ac1 ,o1 ,n1 ,o1 ,n1 ,k #d1 ,o1 ,n1 ,o1 ,n1 ,k #a4 ,repeat from 991 ,k #aj4 #bhth ,row4--99 ,s #a1 ,k #ad1 ,o1 ,n1 ,o1 ,n1 ,k #d1 ,o1 ,n1 ,o1 ,n4 ,repeat from 991 ,k #aj4 #cjth ,row4--99 ,s #a1 ,k #ae1 ,o1 ,n1 ,o1 ,n1 ,k #d1 ,o1 ,n1 ,k #a4 ,repeat from 991 ,k #aj4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,cynthia ,knitted ,stripe4 #cbnd ,row4--99 ,s #a1 ,k #aj1 ,o1 ,n1 ,k #d1 ,o1 ,n1 ,o1 ,n1 ,k #d1 ,o1 ,n4 ,repeat from 991 ,k #aj4 #cdth ,row4--99 ,s #a1 ,k #aa1 ,o1 ,n1 ,k #d1 ,o1 ,n1 ,o1 ,n1 ,k #e4 ,repeat from 991 ,k #aj4 #cfth ,row4--,like #bjth4 #chth ,row4--,like #bbnd4 #djth ,row4--,like #bdth4 #dbnd ,row4--,like #bfth4 #ddth ,row4--,like #bhth4 #deth ,row4--,like #aith4 ,then knit #ai rows plain knitting4 ,go back and repeat from the #aith row4 ,the ,economy ,quilt4 ,bedclothes become an expensive item when there are several beds for young people to be made up1 as well as those for their elders4 ,yet warmth is essential1 if their health is to be maintained4 ,in the winter1 there usually comes a night of sudden cold1 so raw and so intense1 that it seems next to impossible to put too much on the beds4 ,every spare blanket is turned out1 and every eider-down1 and still there is not enough6 ,next morning someone is sure to say they never got warm all night6 ,of course1 eider-downs are ideal4 ,they are warm without being heavy4 ,but real eider-downs are expensive4 ,here is a substitute that was popular in our grandmothers' day4 ,it is simply a quilt formed of small bags1 sewn together like patchwork1 each bag containing a certain amount of snippets and clippings4 ,very simple1 isn't it8 ,and yet these quilts1 that cost practically nothing1 are invaluable in the cold weather4 ,put one of these over the outside of the bed1 and the sleeper keeps as snug and warm as though under a couple of down quilts4 ,one great advantage of this quilt is the ease with which it can be made4 ,a child can always run up a little bag2 a child can also cut up snippets1 if it is old enough to be allowed to use a scissors4 ,mother can run round a few bags with her sewing machine1 just before putting it away after doing needlework4 ,in this way the bags accumulate in a surprising manner2 and joining them together1 a few at a time1 either by hand or with the machine1 is not laborious or brain-wearing work4 ,the ,method ,i ,always ,adopt4 ,for some years now1 ,i have made it a rule always to have one of these quilts on hand4 ,if ,i do not need it myself1 when it is finished1 ,i always know someone who can put it to good use4 ,any woman who has an elastic family and a non-elastic purse1 is glad of one for a gift4 ,i save every scrap of material that would otherwise be wasted4 ,if it is not new1 ,i have it washed and thoroughly dried4 ,all this waste goes into a bag that ,i keep hanging up in a cupboard in my bedroom4 ,i never allow a large amount to accumulate1 lest moth should get at it4 ,i have seldom more than a couple of handfuls at one time waiting to be dealt with4 ,on my chest of drawers ,i keep a box4 ,in this there is always a pair of sharp scissors4 ,when ,i have a few moments idle--between the lights when it is too dark to see much else1 or when my eyes are too tired to do work requiring close attention--,i cut up a few of the scraps from the bag into snippets about an inch square sometimes smaller1 never larger4 ,i put these in the box4 ,sidenote3 ,worked in ,sections4 ,then again1 whenever ,i have any bits from dressmaking1 or mending1 or darning1 it has become second nature with me to cut them up there and then into snippets1 and put them in the box4 ,in fact1 ,i always have the snippet box on the table beside my work box when ,i am sewing1 and the bits go in as a matter of course as ,i go along4 ,it keeps me so tidy4 ,everything comes in useful1 even fragments of darning wool1 ravellings and basting threads6 ,i save any scraps of material large enough to make the bags2 a useful size is five or six inches by three inches4 ,i run up three sides of these when ,i have a spare moment2 put in a small handful of snippets1 and close up the end4 ,these ,i put in a drawer till ,i have time to join them together4 ,i always machine mine together1 as it is the quickest way4 ,do not fill the bags anything like full1 or the quilt will be impossibly heavy4 ,if you fill the bag about a third full1 or at most a very loose half-full1 that will be quite enough4 ,each little bag just wants a slight thickness inside1 to give the extra warmth1 much the same as we sometimes line quilts with a layer of cotton wool between two cotton covers4 ,illustration3 ,,section ,,of ,,the ,,economy ,,quilt4 ,the reason we put the clippings in little bags1 instead of into one bag1 is to keep the stuff evenly distributed over the surface of the bed4 ,otherwise1 every time the sleeper turned over1 or disarranged the coverings1 there would be the chance of all the clippings slipping over1 and collecting themselves on the one side or the other of the bed1 or possibly all falling to the foot of the bed4 ,a quilt made of the bags1 not too full1 can be shaken and kept thoroughly aired4 ,almost any sort of material can be used for the bags1 provided it is not too delicate in colour1 as one does not want to have a quilt of this sort frequently going to the cleaners4 ,strong stuffs are best1 such as cretonne1 serge1 stout print1 sateen--anything in fact that will stand some wear4 ,mix cotton clippings with wool clippings in each bag4 ,obviously the quilt will not need any lining1 as the back will be fairly neat4 ,if you like1 you can finish the edge with a cord2 but ,i myself always aim to get the outside bags all of one colour scheme2 this in itself makes a certain finish--a kind of border--and ,i just leave it at that4 ,after all1 these quilts are not for ornament so much as stern utility2 nevertheless1 they can be made to look really pretty1 if a little care and taste is expended on the placing of the various colours and designs4 ,to ,finish the ,hems of ,blankets4 ,illustration ,turn down a hem a little more than an inch1 having a ball of wool ready 7,andalusian or #c-ply white will do71 fasten in the end with a darning needle4 ,having the working end of wool out at the top of hem1 ready for the crochet hook 7a coarse steel hook is best71 catch up a chain stitch with the hook and 99 bring the wool across the hook as for doing a stitch1 insert the hook at the bottom of hem1 catch wool on opposite side1 the opposite way to lifting the thread as in crocheting1 that is hooking the wool in a downward movement from right to left1 draw loop through and up level with the top of line4 ,take out the hook and make one loop1 just drawn up to lie in two straight lines and slip through loop on needle1 afterwards doing a chain stitch1 and repeat from 994 ,a little practice will soon show that done in this way the stitches are not twisted but lay flat1 like the machine finish4 ,doing up an ,eiderdown4 ,in the days of our grandmothers1 eiderdowns were considered a luxury1 things to be taken care of and kept well covered4 ,at the present time1 however1 they are found on nearly every bed1 varying from those made of sateen and chintz to those made of satin and silk4 ,i suppose it is because 8familiarity breeds contempt0 that we do not take the care of ours that our grandmothers did of theirs1 and that therefore they became so much sooner soiled and worn out4 ,if your eiderdown is getting shabby1 why not clean it and re-cover it yourself8 ,if anybody is not willing to give up a little time and trouble to the success of this venture1 let them not so much as contemplate cleaning and re-covering an eiderdown at home1 for though quite easy it is a little tiresome1 and the only two things really needed outside a few yards of chintz are patience and common sense4 ,to explain3 patience will be needed1 for an eiderdown takes some time to dry when once wet1 and common sense to choose the right day on which to do it4 ,the first thing to do is to choose a hot day1 as the eiderdown must be dried out-of-doors1 and the brighter the day the quicker it will dry1 added to which the sunshine fluffs up the down better than any fire does4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,narrow ,,insertion ,,for ,a ,,nursery ,,casement ,,curtain4 ,see the article on page #fg4 ,after well brushing and shaking the quilt1 whip it well with a little cane to loosen the feathers and to get out whatever dust you can4 ,have ready a bath half full of warm--not hot--water1 into which dissolve a small packet of ,lux4 ,be sure before putting the quilt in that the soap is well melted1 as otherwise it is apt to stick in lumps to the covering1 whatever it may be4 ,dip half of the quilt in first and souse it up and down before dipping in the rest4 ,you will be surprised at the amount of dirt that 8pours0 out4 ,it seems incredible that an eiderdown could be so dirty without showing it plainly4 ,when the whole quilt is wet1 continue to dip it up and down in the water for some time1 gently squeezing it between your hands4 ,it does not matter if the colour runs1 as the dye will not affect the down1 and as you are re-covering it1 why1 the streaky case will not be seen4 ,let it soak in the water for about an hour1 occasionally stirring it in the bath1 kneading and squeezing it so as to loosen the dirt4 ,when you think it is clean1 empty the bath and refill with hotter water1 but no soap4 ,rinse well and continue in fresh waters until the soap is completely rinsed out4 ,wring out thoroughly and hang over the edge of the bath to drain4 ,at the end of twenty minutes wring out again1 and it is much better if you can get another person to help with it1 as it is much too big to do alone4 ,next1 take it out into the garden and hang it on a line1 the higher the better1 but anywhere where the wind can blow through it4 ,and here is needed the patience2 for it will take two days--probably three days1 and possibly a week--to dry in the open1 for an eiderdown is very thick1 and the down being close it is difficult for the air to penetrate4 ,never let it stay out after the sun is off it1 as it quickly absorbs the damp and only delays the process of drying4 ,frequently turn it while hanging on the line1 and shake it well to loosen the feathers4 ,i generally find that three days is enough to dry my quilts thoroughly1 but ,i always leave them spread out on the grass on a clean sheet for one whole day in the sunshine after the drying to fluff up the feathers4 ,it is wonderful how the heat makes them swell and become light and fluffy4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,diagram ,,for ,,the ,,casement ,,curtain ,,shown ,,on ,,page #ie4 ,when all this is finished1 take your little cane and whip it all over hard1 as though you were beating a carpet4 ,turn it often as this helps to loosen the down inside4 ,this completes the cleaning process1 which is simple but complete1 and then you are ready for the re-covering4 ,the new cover1 needless to say1 depends entirely upon individual choice whether it is to be satin1 silk1 sateen or chintz4 ,i always use a pretty chintz corresponding to the curtains and hangings of the bedroom the quilt belongs to4 ,one side ,i cover with this1 and the other side ,i use a self-coloured sateen or casement cloth to tone4 ,it is impossible for me to give the amount of material necessary1 as eiderdowns vary tremendously in size4 ,there are many different widths in what is called a double-bedded quilt1 as also in the single-bedded ones4 ,for large-sized ones you will have to have a seam down the centre1 as no material is wide enough to cover it completely2 but1 for a single-width quilt1 a forty-inch goods will be wide enough4 ,sidenote3 ,re-covering the ,quilt4 ,the last quilt ,i covered was for a brown room with a china-blue carpet patterned in white1 and so ,i chose a willow-pattern chintz with a reverse side of brown sateen1 and it was really one of the most successful ,i have done4 ,first of all1 machine-stitch the two widths of material together1 being careful to match the design on the right side1 and carefully press the seam flat4 ,then spread out on the floor the sateen--also seamed--and1 laying the eiderdown upon it1 run a tacking thread all round the edge1 being careful to stretch the quilt to its fullest1 so as not to make the cover too tight4 ,after this run a line of stitching around each and every little eyelet1 of which there are many2 these hold the cover in position for the next step4 ,taking a long thread of a bright-coloured cotton1 carefully follow out the design of the quilting1 which1 in my particular case1 was a very elaborate scroll1 tacking the stitches right through the quilt to the new piece of material4 ,if the design is very complicated this needs patience2 but nowadays eiderdowns are more often quilted in straight lines1 with perhaps a diamond centre4 ,always tack your pattern on the plain side of the material1 as it is so much easier to stitch on the machine later on if there is no pattern to dazzle your eyes4 ,i would impress on whoever tries this re-covering to be very careful about keeping exactly to the quilting pattern1 as on this altogether depends the success of the whole undertaking4 ,it would be most disappointing if1 after having finished1 you should find that owing to careless tacking the covering was crooked or cramped or drawn4 ,it takes patience and care1 but is quite easy and most satisfying4 ,when you have completed the outlining1 lay the quilt on the floor again and tack on the chintz1 doing exactly as you did with the sateen1 only omitting to outline the quilting1 as it is not necessary to have it on both sides4 ,next1 where the threads outline the eyelets take a stiletto and punch the holes through both sides and button-hole them all round through the double materials4 ,in doing this use silk the colour of the plain-coloured side1 as it looks so much nicer than the reverse way4 ,and now all is ready for the machine4 ,if your quilt is in two colours1 thread the machine with the silk matching the sateen and use a bobbin threaded with a shade to match the reverse4 ,carefully follow out the design which you have outlined1 spreading the quilt as wide as possible so as not to get it puckered4 ,when all the stitching is finished you will be delighted to see that both sides of the quilt are stitched in their own respective colourings4 ,take out the tacking threads around the edge1 and turning down the edge of the 8right side0 of the quilt insert a narrow piping cord and sew in by machine4 ,next turn in the edges of the other side1 and hem by hand down to the edge of the cord4 ,this gives a very nice finish as well as a very neat one4 ,to anybody who desires a frill1 though these are not always the prevailing fashion--there being fashions in eiderdowns as in other things--after taking out the tacking thread around the edge of the quilt1 insert the frill instead of the cord and stitch firmly by machine4 ,in using a frill be sure to have it made of the two materials the same as the cover1 putting the plain to the plain and the fancy to the fancy4 ,then hem down as with the cord4 ,a very handsome edge can be made if a thick cord be used similar to those used in upholstery work1 but covered tightly with material before sewing to the cover4 ,the pulling tightly of the material covering the cord gives a sort of 8cable0 effect1 and is really very pretty4 ,when completed ,i feel sure you will be pleased with the look of your new eiderdown4 ,it costs so little--not more than a few shillings at the outside4 ,illustration3 ,,suggestions ,,for ,,curtain ,,borders4 ,see the article on page #fa4 ,patchwork ,quilts4 ,that useful branch of oldtime needlework1 the patchwork quilt1 has been revived1 and this revival is due to the exigency of economy during war-time4 ,the price of all kinds of materials being so very high1 and the need for economy so great1 have led to many useful devices1 in order to maintain a reasonable amount of comfort during these trying times1 and not the least of these is the patchwork quilt4 ,illustration3 ,to form the sides of the padded quilt illustrated on the next page4 ,the smallest scraps of cotton1 silk1 or other material can be utilised and made into coverings1 which in many cases may be made very artistic1 and durable4 ,in order to carry out the colour scheme of the bedroom for which it is intended1 it is necessary to combine only those colours which are found in the other furnishings4 ,the usual size of a quilt for a double bed is #f ft4 by #e ft41 or if the bed be very large1 #f ft4 by #f ft4 ,the single bed size is #e ft4 by #d ft4 ,for a child's cot1 #d ft4 by #c ft4 is the average size4 ,illustration3 ,a simple pattern showing triangles in three colours4 ,many of the more artistic kind are made up into bedspread size1 which is longer than the quilt1 and allows for a fall over each side4 ,the size of a bedspread is usually from #gb to #ij inches1 by from #ij to #ajj inches4 ,illustration3 ,an effective design for silk patchwork3 black and white squares1 machined or quilted diagonally in green4 ,the pieces of material1 which are all of the same kind in each quilt1 are cut up into triangles1 squares1 points1 circles1 etc41 and care must be taken to have the sizes of the different shapes exactly alike4 ,the edges are turned in1 then the various pieces topsewn together on the wrong side according to the pattern4 ,it is a good plan to make the quilt in sections1 then unite all together4 ,illustration3 ,to form a padded quilt4 ,a quilt of this kind must have a lining1 and if wanted to give additional warmth an interlining of some kind4 ,cotton wadding1 strips of old white flannel1 or any colour which will not run in the washing1 sewn together4 ,old woollen underwear thoroughly washed and with worn pieces cut away1 can be made use of1 as well as light colour tweeds1 etc41 but all pieces must be lightly sewn together with flat seams1 then tacked on the lining4 ,see that this lining fits the quilt exactly1 turn in the edges of both1 tack together1 then machine stitch or sew the edges together4 ,blanket stitch may be worked over the edge with coarse coloured silk1 embroidery thread1 or ,no4 #e 8,peri-,lusta40 ,illustration3 ,a diagram showing a two-colour star design4 ,the quilt is now ready for the 8quilting10 without which it would not be complete4 ,this is done on the sewing machine if one be at hand1 otherwise hand-sewing with coloured thread1 matching or contrasting with the work1 is done in running stitch1 with here and there a backstitch to make it secure4 ,use a long sewing needle with 8,peri-,lusta0 thread1 any required colour1 ,no4 #h4 ,the lines of sewing can be formed into diamond shape1 squares1 herringbone shape1 zig-zag1 or any other form liked4 ,sidenote3 ,about ,quilting4 ,the following designs are easily made1 and will only require scraps of material found lying idle in most households4 ,old sheets can be made use of for the lining1 or perhaps faded casement curtains1 which can be washed and bleached1 or tinted to match4 ,illustration3 ,an appliqu design to border a plain bedspread4 ,this was carried out in two shades of blue4 ,triangles in ,three ,colours4 ,this is intended for scraps of silk too small to allow of variety in the shape4 ,they are all cut into triangles1 and the colours arranged to form hexagonal shapes4 ,there are only three colours1 and of each you will require two triangles to form the hexagonal shape4 ,place the six triangles with a point of each in the centre1 no two of same colour coming together1 turn in and topsew the edges of each of two sides together4 ,make several of this shape before joining together1 then topsew all the hexagonals1 which will be found to fit into each other4 ,finish in the manner already directed4 ,a ,variety of the 8,star0 ,shape ,design4 ,the design shown on page #hb is a variety of the 8star0 shape design1 and three colours are used4 ,each star has a plain six-sided figure in the centre4 ,in the design this centre is green4 ,then each of these six sides has a triangle in white4 ,the space between the points being filled with pink1 the outer edge of which is1 of course1 twice as long as one side of the centre4 ,suitable for ,silk ,patchwork4 ,the design at the bottom of page #gi is the very latest design1 and is suitable for scraps of silk1 the fashionable colours of black and white being combined in the sample4 ,blue and white1 pink and white1 green and white1 or any other colours can be substituted4 ,the border has an appliqu of roses cut from cretonne4 ,each motif has its edges turned under1 then tacked to the quilt or bedspread when the quilting is finished4 ,the edge is worked over with green 8,peri-,lusta0 of the same shade as that with which the 8quilting0 was done1 using outline stitch4 ,to ,form a ,padded ,quilt4 ,the design at the bottom of page #hj is intended for forming a padded quilt out of small pieces of silk1 sateen1 or other material4 ,the hexagonal shape is used here1 and the lining of contrasting colour is cut to the same size1 then five sides of the shape are sewn together1 and the little bag so formed is stuffed with vegetable down1 then the other side sewn up4 ,one side of this can be silk and the other cotton4 ,the long narrow strips for the sides are formed of the principal material in strips of the required length1 and double the width the band is to be4 ,sew the edges together1 then stuff with the down through one end1 sew the corners together1 and these must be cut at right angles1 so as to give a nice corner4 ,when all the padded pieces are sewn together1 a pretty effect is obtained by going over all the seams with black cotton in feather-stitch4 ,vegetable down is cheap1 and about three pounds will be ample for a large size quilt4 ,illustration3 ,a three-colour design for a patch-work quilt1 in diamonds1 triangles1 and hexagonals4 ,patchwork ,appliqu ,bedspreads4 ,another economical bed-covering is found in the patchwork appliqu4 ,in this bedspread there is no lining required1 and cheap cotton material serves for the foundation1 or old sheets1 casement curtains1 bolton sheeting1 etc41 that have served their purpose can be utilised4 ,they can be tinted any shade desirable and1 of course1 must contrast with the colours chosen for the appliqu4 ,a deep border turned up on the foundation in the form of a hem is attractive1 as seen in the 8,fleur-de-lis0 design on page #ha4 ,here the foundation is cream sateen1 and the appliqu with border cut from similar material1 but in a deep shade of pink4 ,the motif is simply outlined with black 8,peri-,lusta0 in stem stitch1 when attaching to the bedspread4 ,repairing ,table ,linen4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,plain ,darning4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,twill ,darning4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,darning for a ,straight ,tear or ,gash4 ,now more than ever is it absolutely necessary to preserve our linen household napery1 for the price asked for new linen is enormous1 owing to its scarcity1 and it is said that in the near future it will be almost impossible to obtain it at any price4 ,it may not be generally known that linen is liable to the attack of minute insects1 which bore through it1 just as the moth does through wood1 and so weaken it that it soon wears into holes1 if precaution is not taken to prevent them4 ,when storing linen1 camphor1 lavender1 cedar wood1 etc41 are just as necessary for its preservation as they are for woollen goods1 and it is said that an apple1 hung up till quite dry1 then studded all over with cloves1 stuck in up to the head1 is very potent when attached to the top of the drawer of the chest1 or hung on the inside of the door1 if the chest be made in this way4 ,all linen should be well aired before putting away4 ,the repairs should be made before sending the linen to the laundry1 and if it has been stiffened and glazed1 the part requiring mending should be steeped in warm water to take out the starch1 and then dried4 ,when a part becomes threadbare1 the best method of repairing is to darn it neatly with fine linen thread1 obtained by ravelling a piece of the material4 ,in the case of a table cloth this thread can be got by ripping the hem at one end and unravelling the edge for a few rows4 ,wind the thread on a reel and keep for the repairing of this cloth1 then remake the hem4 ,fig4 #a shows the method of doing plain darning1 and ,fig4 #b shows the twill darning or plain damask stitch4 ,insert the part to be darned in the embroidery tambour with the wrong side turned towards you1 as all darning must be done on this side of the material4 ,the darning should go well up into the sound part of the surrounding material1 and the stitches should be small and even4 ,sidenote3 ,repairing ,table ,linen4 ,run in the lengthwise stitches first1 taking care to have them a little loose1 as they will shrink when washed1 and leave a small loop of the thread at each turning1 to allow for the taking up of these threads when working across them4 ,run the stitches according to the thread of the material in perfectly straight lines1 taking up only two or three threads and skipping the same number4 ,in alternate rows take up those threads skipped in the preceding rows4 ,when the weak portion is covered with the lengthwise stitches and about half an inch beyond it at each end1 work across in the same way1 taking up and leaving alternate stitches1 and having the same space between the rows as at first4 ,illustration3 ,these specimens show some of the patterns that are to be met with in damask4 ,sidenote3 ,darning and ,patching4 ,when there is a hole in the linen1 it is necessary to cut away the worn edges and make the sides even1 then darn as in the preceding case1 but have the threads much closer together1 continue each lengthwise thread across the hole and darn down below it1 leave the loop at the end when turning4 7,see ,fig4 #a74 ,the darn when finished should have the threads so close together as to replace the original piece4 ,for twilled linen fabric ,fig4 #b shows the method of proceeding4 ,begin by working the darning stitch lengthwise across the hole in the same manner as before1 then study the material to see how many threads of the fabric are crossed over to form the twill1 and proceed to make the crossing stitches1 passing over two or three threads and taking up one or two according to the pattern4 ,in each succeeding row advance one or two threads in the same direction4 ,even coloured borders can be very successfully repaired1 and a correct copy of the original design be obtained in this way1 using thread matching in colour with those of the border4 ,fig4 #c shows how to repair a rent in the material1 or a gash made by a knife1 when the edges fit close together4 ,place a strip of stiff paper underneath the opening and tack securely all round4 ,darn across the rent1 drawing the edges close together1 and picking up the threads in each row which were passed over in the preceding4 ,leave the small loop at each turning as before4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,a ,hemmed and ,stitched ,patch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4 ,a ,top-sewn ,patch4 ,patching the ,linen4 ,when the piece to be repaired is too large for darning1 it must be cut out and replaced with a patch of the same material and1 if possible1 the patch should be cut from linen which has been in use about the same length of time as that requiring the mending4 ,if new material must be used1 then let it be somewhat thinner in texture than the other1 for if the same material in a new piece be used the patch would be very conspicuous4 ,sidenote3 ,repairing ,table ,linen4 ,use fine linen thread and a fine sewing needle when patching4 ,cut the edges of the hole to a thread of the material1 taking away the worn parts completely1 cut the patch to fit over the hole and about an inch beyond it each way4 ,turn in the edges of the hole1 making a diagonal slit at each corner1 to get a perfect angle and flat seam4 ,turn in the edges of the patch and tack on the wrong side evenly over the hole1 turn to the right side and hem the patch to the edge of the hole with neat small stitches1 then backstitch on this right side to the outside edge of the patch1 keeping the lines straight and the angle at each corner acute4 ,see ,fig4 #d4 ,fig4 #e shows the inset patch which is less noticeable than the preceding1 and suitable for articles which do not have to stand very frequent use and washing4 ,the edges of the hole are arranged as in the preceding1 the patch is cut to fit it exactly1 with its edges turned in a seam of the same width as that in the hole4 ,both edges are topsewn together on the wrong side1 then the seam opened out and pressed quite flat4 ,if neatly done and the pattern evenly matched1 a patch of this kind is scarcely noticeable4 ,the raw edges of the material should be neatly overcast to prevent ravelling4 ,darning ,damask ,table ,linen4 ,when darning damask linen it is quite possible to imitate the design so closely as to render the mending invisible4 ,a close study of the design is necessary to see the number of threads taken up and passed over4 ,in all cases the best thread to use is the ravelling obtained by picking out the threads from the edges of the material4 ,the illustration page shows the most common damask patterns and the method of darning them4 ,in all cases the lengthwise stitches are worked as in ,fig4 #b4 ,the pattern is worked by the crossing stitches1 taking up and passing over a certain number of threads in each successive row4 ,the samples are worked with two coloured threads1 so that the stitches forming the design can be easily copied4 ,when doing drawn thread work wind all the pulled threads on a reel1 and keep them for mending linen of all kinds1 they are the best threads for the purpose4 ,when ,cloths are frayed at the ,laundry4 ,table cloths and serviettes are usually sent to the laundry1 even when the bulk of the washing is done at home1 as it is so difficult for the amateur to get the evenly glazed surface that the professional worker gives the cloths4 ,the result is that tablecloths soon show signs of wear and tear1 and invariably 8go0 first down the edges4 ,as soon as holes and fraying appear at the sides or ends1 cut the strip right off1 unless it is quite a small rent and can easily be mended4 ,as a rule1 when the edges once start to go1 they do the job pretty thoroughly4 ,and the best way is to cut off the weak part1 before it tears far into the material1 and turn a new hem4 ,if the cloth is then too narrow to use on the dining table1 it can be widened or lengthened1 by applying a deep hem1 which can be joined with fagotting to the cloth4 ,it will be necessary to tack both the cloth that has been cut and re-hemmed1 and the new hem on stiff paper to keep it even as you work the faggoting4 ,mending a ,sheet4 ,nowadays1 when economy must be the watchword with most of us1 a great saving can be effected in our household by paying attention to the requirements of the contents of the linen chest and remembering the old proverb1 8a stitch in time saves nine40 ,when a piece of bedroom or table-napery shows signs of wear in any part by becoming thin1 patching can be avoided by carefully darning the spot with soft cotton or linen thread1 running the stitches well up into the sound portion surrounding the weak4 ,but when1 as in the case of sheets1 a large portion gets thin all over1 patching must be resorted to4 ,the best way to repair a sheet that has become well worn in the centre is to cut it right up the middle and turn the selvedged edges to the centre4 ,tack these in a flat seam1 overlapping the edges for somewhat less than the quarter of an inch 7do not turn in the selvedge edge for there must not be a thick seam71 using fine sewing cotton of a soft make1 stitch along the extreme edge of the seam at both sides1 or use the machine if one be handy2 in the latter case do not have the tension tight4 ,if the part now turned to the sides shows any holes or any portion of it be very thin1 it is better to cut this portion out and replace by a patch4 ,the piece for this patch should be lighter than the material of the sheet1 but of the same kind1 and it is always well to keep pieces of the old sheets which can no longer be used for this purpose4 ,illustration3 ,showing the centre of the sheet with selvedge edges in overlapping seam1 and hem-stitching reworked over the seam4 ,cut the patch to the required size by a line in the threads of the material1 allowing two or three inches beyond the weak edges in the sheet4 ,turn in the edges neatly along the three sides of the piece which come in on the sheet1 tack the two edges together and spread the patch in place on the sheet1 making it perfectly smooth1 now tack round the three edges4 ,hem down this side of the patch4 ,illustration3 ,showing the patch set into the side of the sheet before hemming1 with method of cutting away the worn part under the patch4 ,turn the other side of the sheet and cut away the portion over the patch1 leaving half an inch margin1 turn in the edges of the margin1 snipping the corners to make an angle1 tack the seam1 then hem or machine-stitch along the edge4 ,the sheet is now ready for hemming the sides1 turn in a half inch hem at each side and sew in place4 ,if the sheet has been hem-stitched at both ends a few stitches of this hemming must be undone at each side of the centre seam and then reworked so as to preserve the pattern and give a neat finish to the work4 ,books for ,little ,girls ,edited by ,,flora ,,klickmann 8,the ,little ,girl's ,sewing ,book0 is unlike any other needlework book that has ever been published1 and is overflowing with pictures and little poems1 just the sort that a child enjoys4 8,the ,little ,girl's ,knitting and ,crochet ,book0 contains instructions for making many articles--easy1 attractive1 and useful--that a small girl will love to knit or crochet4 ,a ,patchwork ,toilet ,runner4 ,illustration3 ,strips of pretty ,cretonne are joined together1 and the hem is of blue print4 ,the illustration on this page shows a very effective way of using pieces of cretonne to make a toilet runner4 ,runners are expensive items to buy1 but if you have some pretty pieces of material by you1 you can make one with very little trouble and expense4 ,the one shown is composed of #ah pieces of pretty coloured cretonne1 each measuring about #b #h inches4 ,these are joined together to make a long strip1 and the whole is finished with a #a inch hem of blue print1 which is machined on4 ,the border can be of any pretty shade that will tone well with the pieces4 ,or1 if they are of a delicate shade1 a hem of unbleached calico would make a delightful finish4 ,this washes excellently1 and the soft1 creamy tint looks exceedingly well with the pale-coloured pieces4 ,in selecting the pieces of cretonne to be used1 it is essential to employ only those that will launder well4 ,otherwise with the first wash the whole thing will be spoilt through the colours 8running40 ,this runner when finished measures #dd inches long by #ab inches deep1 but a cloth of any size or shape can be made in this way1 and with a little thought and trouble really delightful results can be secured at little or no expense4 ,if you do not happen to have any fancy cretonne by you1 there is no reason why plain coloured pieces should not be used4 ,so long as they are carefully and tastefully blended1 quite a pretty cloth or runner can be made4 ,oddments of casement cloth1 linen1 cotton poplin1 print1 can all be saved1 and a real economy can be effected by this method of using them4 ,modern ,bead ,work4 ,beaded motifs as dress trimmings were never more in vogue than at the present time4 ,beaded bags1 hat-bands1 belts and ornaments are all expensive articles to purchase1 but they are quite easy to make1 and the materials cost but a little4 ,there are two modes of making the hand-made trimmings and bags1 and1 of course1 this kind is worth much more than that made by machinery1 as well as being more lasting and artistic4 ,in beaded crochet a coloured mercerised cotton1 fine enough to pass easily through the beads selected1 is used with a crochet-hook corresponding in fineness to the thread4 ,the beads are first put on the thread1 using a fine sewing needle for the purpose1 or waxing the thread end2 the beads are then worked into the design with the usual d c4 ,in the needle-made variety1 which we are illustrating in this issue1 each bead is attached to the bead immediately below it1 and to the one following it4 ,a very fine sewing needle1 with fine linen or glazed cotton thread1 is necessary4 ,the ,rose ,design4 ,illustration3 ,a ,needle-made ,beaded ,rose ,motif4 ,this beautiful design is suitable as a single motif for dress trimming1 or as a repeat for tops of bags1 etc4 ,delft-blue china beads compose the background for the rose1 which is of a deep pink colour1 with small green stem4 ,use fine linen thread and a very fine sewing needle4 ,thread #bi of the blue beads 7or any other colour selected for the groundwork71 run the needle back through the #bhth bead 7that is1 insert the needle through the #bhth bead1 between the #bhth and #bith1 and bring it out through the #bhth between that and the #bgth71 thread a bead1 bring this bead over the #bhth1 and run the needle back through the #bhth1 as you did before1 but run it through the #bgth also2 thread another bead1 place it over the #bgth1 and run the needle back through the #bgth and #bfth beads2 repeat with every #b beads to the end4 ,turn4 #crd ,row4--,thread a bead1 run the needle back through the last bead in the #bnd row1 thread a bead1 run the needle back through the last bead again1 in the same manner as before1 and through the following bead2 thread a bead1 and continue as in the #bnd row1 introducing the rose beads4 ,after working #g blue 7b71 there are #e pink 7p71 #c b1 #c p1 #aj b4 #dth ,row4--#i b1 #e p1 #a b1 #f p1 #g b4 #eth ,row4--#g b1 #f p1 #a b1 #e p1 #i b4 #fth ,row4--#h b1 #b p1 #h b1 #d p1 #f b4 #gth ,row4--#f b1 #a p1 #b b1 #a p1 #a b1 #f p1 #b b1 #b p1 #g b4 ,sidenote3 ,needle-made ,motifs4 #hth ,row4--#g b1 #a p1 #a b1 #b p1 #b b1 #e p1 #b b1 #b p1 #f b4 #ith ,row4--#g b1 #b p1 #a b1 #b p1 #g b1 #a p1 #a b1 #b p1 #e b4 #ajth ,row4--#e b1 #a p1 #a b1 #a p1 #e b1 #a p1 #a b1 #d p1 #b b1 #c p1 #d b4 #aath ,row4--#c b1 #e p1 #a b1 #d p1 #a b1 #b p1 #d b1 #a p1 #a b1 #b p1 #d b4 ,illustration3 ,a ,needle-made ,star ,design and a ,bird ,motif4 #abth ,row4--#d b1 #a p1 #a b1 #a p1 #d b1 #b p1 #a b1 #e p1 #a b1 #f p1 #b b4 #acth ,row4--#b b1 #a p1 #a b1 #a p1 #d b1 #e p1 #a b1 #b p1 #d b1 #a p1 #a b1 #a p1 #d b4 #adth ,row4--#d b1 #a p1 #a b1 #d p1 #a b1 #b p1 #a b1 #d p1 #b b1 #f p1 #b b4 #aeth ,row4--#c b1 #f p1 #a b1 #d p1 #c b1 #d p1 #a b1 #a p1 #e b4 #afth ,row4--#c b1 #b p1 #a b1 #a p1 #d b1 #c p1 #a b1 #c p1 #a b1 #f p1 #c b4 #agth ,row4--#d b1 #e p1 #a b1 #a p1 #c b1 #h p1 #a b1 #b p1 #c b4 #ahth ,row4--#c b1 #c p1 #a b1 #i p1 #b b1 #e p1 #e b4 #aith ,row4--#g b1 #b p1 #b b1 #a p1 #a b1 #g p1 #b b1 #b p1 #d b4 #bjth ,row4--#f b1 #b p1 #a b1 #f p1 #a b1 #c p1 #i b4 #bast ,row4--#h b1 #c p1 #c b1 #a p1 #d b1 #d p1 #e b4 #bbnd ,row4--#d b1 #d p1 #a b1 #d p1 #a b1 #a p1 #a b1 #e p1 #a b1 #a green 7g71 #e b4 ,illustration3 ,the ,rose diagram4 ,the ,star diagram is given below4 #bcrd ,row4--#d b1 #a g1 #b b1 #e p1 #a b1 #b p1 #a b1 #g p1 #e b4 #bdth ,row4--#e b1 #f p1 #b b1 #c p1 #a b1 #c p1 #c b1 #b g1 #c b4 #beth ,row4--#c b1 #a g1 #e b1 #e p1 #d b1 #c p1 #g b4 #bfth ,row4--#bd b1 #a g1 #c b4 #bgth and #bhth ,rows4--,all blue4 ,the bead at each turning is not included in the number given at the beginning of each row2 this is the 8turning0 bead1 and must be used in every row as in the #ast and #bnd rows4 ,a ,needle-made ,star ,design4 ,illustration ,this lovely design can be extended each way4 ,it is made with #b shades of blue1 but any other combination will prove equally attractive if the shades are well chosen4 ,light and dark blue were used in the sample1 and1 of course1 the beads are all of the same size and shape4 ,thread #d dark blue 7d b71 #g light blue 7l b71 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #g l b1 #d d b4 ,turn4 ,in this design the 8turning0 bead is omitted4 #bnd ,row4--,thread #a d b bead1 run the needle through the last bead in #ast row at the side next to the #bnd last1 draw out the thread1 now run it through the #ast bead in this row towards the #bnd bead in #ast row1 and put it through that bead2 thread another d b and continue on with #b more d b1 then #h l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #c l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #h l b1 #d d b4 #crd ,row4--#b d b1 #aa l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #a l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #aa l b1 #b d b4 #dth ,row4--#b d b1 #ab l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #ab l b1 #b d b4 #eth ,row4--#aj l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #a d b1 #c l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #a d b1 #aj l b4 #fth ,row4--#aj l b1 #b d b1 #d l b1 #a d b1 #a l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #b d b1 #aj l b4 #gth ,row4--#aj l b1 #c d b1 #d l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #c d b1 #aj l b4 #hth ,row4--#aj l b1 #d d b1 #g l b1 #d d b1 #aj l b4 #ith ,row4--#aj l b1 #e d b1 #e l b1 #e d b1 #aj l b4 #ajth ,row4--#aj l b1 #f d b1 #c l b1 #f d b1 #aj l b4 #aath ,row4--#d l b1 #f b d1 #a l b1 #e d b1 #c l b1 #e d b1 #a l b1 #f b d1 #d l b4 #abth ,row4--#a d b1 #d l b1 #f d b1 #a l b1 #d d b1 #c l b1 #d d b1 #a l b1 #f d b1 #d l b1 #a d b4 #acth ,row4--#a l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #f d b1 #a l b1 #c d b1 #c l b1 #c d b1 #a l b1 #f d b1 #d l b1 #a d b1 #a l b4 #adth ,row4--#b l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #f d b1 #a l b1 #b d b1 #c l b1 #b d b1 #a l b1 #f d b1 #d l b1 #a d b1 #b l b4 #aeth ,row4--#a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #f d b1 #a l b1 #a d b1 #c l b1 #a d b1 #a l b1 #f d b1 #d l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b4 #afth ,row4--#a l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #f d b1 #e l b1 #f d b1 #d l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #a l b4 ,sidenote3 ,a ,swallow ,design4 ,illustration3 ,a ,diagram for working the ,bird4 #agth ,row4--#b l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b4 #aj l b1 #c d b1 #aj l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #b l b4 #ahth ,row4--#a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #i l b1 #c d b1 #i l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b4 #aith ,row4--#b l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #aj l b1 #c d b1 #aj l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #b l b4 #bjth ,row4--#a l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #f d b1 #e l b1 #f d b1 #d l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #a l b4 #bast ,row4--#b d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #f d b1 #a l b1 #a d b1 #c l b1 #a d b1 #a l b1 #f d b1 #d l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b4 #bbnd ,row4--#b l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #f d b1 #a l b1 #b d b1 #c l b1 #b d b1 #a l b1 #f d b1 #d l b1 #a d b1 #b l b4 #bcrd ,row4--#a l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #f d b1 #a l b1 #c d b1 #c l b1 #c d b1 #a l b1 #f d b1 #d l b1 #a d b1 #a l b4 #bdth ,row4--#a d b1 #d l b1 #f d b1 #a l b1 #d d b1 #c l b1 #d d b1 #a l b1 #f d b1 #d l b1 #a d b4 #beth ,row4--#d l b1 #f d b1 #a l b1 #e d b1 #c l b1 #e d b1 #a l b1 #f d b1 #d l b4 #bfth ,row4--#aj l b1 #f d b1 #c l b1 #f d b1 #aj l b4 #bgth ,row4--#aj l b1 #e d b1 #e l b1 #e d b1 #aj l b4 #bhth ,row4--#aj l b1 #d d b1 #g l b1 #d d b1 #aj l b4 #bith ,row4--#aj l b1 #c d b1 #d l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #c d b1 #aj l b4 #cjth ,row4--#aj l b1 #b d b1 #d l b1 #a d b1 #a l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #b d b1 #aj l b4 #cast ,row4--#aj l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #a d b1 #c l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #a d b1 #aj l b4 #cbnd ,row4--#b d b1 #ab l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #ab l b1 #b d b4 #ccrd ,row4--#b d b1 #aa l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #a l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #aa l b1 #b d b4 #cdth ,row4--#d d b1 #h l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #c l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #h l b1 #d d b4 #ceth ,row4--#d d b1 #g l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #g l b1 #d d b4 ,repeat from the #bnd row4 ,the ,bird ,motif4 ,this is worked with two shades of blue beads--light and dark--bright yellow1 and any colour chosen for the ground-work4 ,it is a beautiful design for a beaded bag intended for a gift4 ,if used for this purpose there must be a larger number of beads in the first row for a foundation1 as the number shown in the diagram 7#eb7 only gives a width of #d inches4 ,allow #ad beads for each extra inch required4 ,be sure to keep the bird design exactly in the centre of the background1 the depth of the design as worked is #c inches1 therefore more rows before and after the bird design will be necessary to increase the depth4 ,using a fine linen or glazed sewing cotton1 thread #ec beads for the groundwork foundation1 turn1 run the thread back through the #ebnd bead1 and1 working as directed for the rose design1 form the #bnd row of groundwork1 which1 in the illustration is white4 ,the 8turning0 bead is not included in the numbers composing the design1 but it must be used at the beginning of every row4 #crd ,row4--#cj white 7w71 #b dark blue 7d b71 #bj w4 #dth ,row4--#ba w1 #b d b1 #b yellow 7y71 #bg w4 #eth ,row4--#bf w1 #b y1 #a d b1 #a light blue 7l b71 #a d b1 #ba w4 #fth ,row4--#ba w1 #c l b1 #c y1 #be w4 #gth ,row4--#be w1 #b y1 #d l b1 #ba w4 #hth ,row4--#ae w1 #f d b1 #e l b1 #b y1 #bd w4 #ith ,row4--#bb w1 #b l b1 #a y1 #ab l b1 #c d b1 #ab w4 ,sidenote3 ,a ,nursery ,casement ,curtain4 #ajth ,row4--#aa w1 #b d b1 #ad l b1 #a y1 #d l b1 #bj w4 #aath ,row4--#ag w1 #c d b1 #ba l b1 #b d b1 #i w4 #abth ,row4--#h w1 #a d b1 #be l b1 #b d b1 #af w4 #acth ,row4--#ad w1 #b d b1 #f l b1 #a d b1 #bj l b1 #b d b1 #g w4 #adth ,row4--#f w1 #b d b1 #bb l b1 #a d b1 #g l b1 #b d b1 #ab w4 #aeth ,row4--#aa w1 #a d b1 #h l b1 #a y1 #f l b1 #b w1 #aj l b1 #a w1 #a l b1 #a w1 #c l b1 #b d b1 #e w4 #afth ,row4--#e w1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #f w1 #a l b1 #b w1 #a l b1 #b w1 #a l b1 #e w1 #e l b1 #a y1 #i l b1 #a d b1 #aj w4 #agth ,row4--#i w1 #a d b1 #i l b1 #a y1 #f l b1 #ai w1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #d w4 #ahth ,row4--#c w1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #ba w1 #e l b1 #b y1 #i l b1 #a d b1 #h w4 #aith ,row4--#g w1 #a d b1 #h l b1 #c w1 #a y1 #e l b1 #bc w1 #a d b1 #c w4 #bjth ,row4--#b w1 #a d b1 #be w1 #e l b1 #a y1 #b w1 #a l b1 #a w1 #g l b1 #a d b1 #f w4 #bast ,row4--#e w1 #a d b1 #f l b1 #a w1 #a l b1 #d w1 #e l b1 #bg w1 #a d b1 #a w4 #bbnd ,row4--#bi w1 #f l b1 #g w1 #e l b1 #a d b1 #d w4 #bcrd ,row4--#c w1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #h w1 #g l b1 #bi w4 #bdth ,row4--#bi w1 #c l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #i w1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #c w4 #beth ,row4--#b w1 #a d b1 #a l b1 #aa w1 #a l b1 #a d b1 #a l b1 #a d b1 #d l b1 #bi w4 #bfth ,row4--#bi w1 #d l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #a l b1 #aa w1 #a l b1 #b w4 #bgth ,row4--#a w1 #a l b1 #ab w1 #c l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #b l b1 #bi w4 #bhth ,row4--#bi w1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #c l b1 #a d b1 #c l b1 #ac w4 #bith ,row4--#ad w1 #b l b1 #a w1 #b l b1 #a d b1 #c l b1 #bi w4 #cjth ,row4--#bi w1 #a l b1 #a w1 #a l b1 #a w1 #a l b1 #ah w4 #cast and #cbnd ,rows4--,all white4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,casement ,,curtain ,,with ,a ,,filet ,,crochet ,,top4 ,see pages #fg1 #ge and #gf4 ,crochet ,ribbons for ,underwear ,beadings4 ,a very pretty and economical substitute for the silk lingerie ribbon is found in the new crochet ribbons for this purpose4 ,fine mercerised cotton1 or crochet silk thread is used with a fine hook4 ,illustration3 ,the above illustration shows ribbons ,no4 #a1 #b1 #c and #d4 ,no4 #a4 #ab ch1 turn1 miss next ch1 #e d c into next #e ch1 #c d c into next ch1 #e d c into last #e ch1 99 turn with #a ch1 miss #ast d c1 #e d c into next #e d c1 #c d c into next d c 7that is the centre d c of the #c d c into #a ch71 #e d c into next #e d c1 miss last d c1 and repeat from 994 ,no4 #b4 ,this is a corded design1 and is worked over a single stout cotton thread1 such as ,no4 #aj4 ,form a knot on the end of the ,no4 #aj cotton1 over the cord put #h d c1 keep the cord gently pulled1 to have the stitches close together and the line perfectly straight4 ,turn1 miss #ast #c d c1 #ae d c over the cord into the #ae d c 991 #c d c over the cord alone1 #ae d c into the #ae d c2 99 repeat4 ,no4 #c4 #aa ch1 turn1 miss #ast ch1 #a d c into next ch1 #c ch1 #b tr into same ch as last d c1 #a d c into next #crd ch1 #c ch1 #b tr into same ch1 #a d c into next #crd ch1 #c ch1 #b tr into same ch1 #a d c into last ch1 99 turn1 #a ch1 #a d c into last d c1 #c ch1 #b tr into same d c1 #a d c1 #c ch1 #b tr over each #c ch except the last1 where you put only the #a d c2 repeat from 994 ,no4 #d4 #ac ch1 #a tr into the #ajth ch1 over the tr put #a d c1 #d tr1 #a tr into the #gth ch1 over the tr put #a d c1 #d tr1 #a tr into the #dth ch1 over the tr #a d c1 #d tr1 #a tr into the #ast ch1 99 turn1 #d ch1 #a tr into the space between the groups of tr with #a d c1 #d tr over each1 #a tr over the #d ch1 at the turning #a d c1 #d tr over this tr2 99 repeat4 ,no4 #e4 #ad ch1 #a d c into the #aath ch1 #c ch1 #a d c into every #bnd ch1 99 turn1 #d ch1 #a d c1 #c ch into each loop2 99 repeat4 ,sidenote3 ,designs that will wear well4 ,no4 #f4 #aj ch1 turn1 #c long tr into the #eth ch1 retaining last loop of each on the hook until working off the #crd1 then work off all the loops together1 and put #a d c around the top1 #c ch1 #c long tr into same ch as last trs1 #c long tr into #ast ch1 #c ch1 #c long tr into same ch1 #a long tr beside last group1 turn1 99 #e ch1 two groups of long trs with #c ch between into each #c ch space1 #a long tr between last trs and following chs2 99 repeat4 ,no4 #g4 #ac ch2 into the #ajth and #gth1 #dth and #ast ch put #b tr with #b ch between1 #a tr beside last tr1 99 turn1 #c ch1 into each #b ch space put #b tr with #b ch between1 #a tr between last tr and next chs2 99 repeat4 ,no4 #h4 #ae ch1 turn1 into the #ajth ch put #a d c1 #e ch1 #a d c1 #c ch1 into the #gth ch1 #a d c1 #e ch1 #a d c1 #c ch1 into the #dth ch1 #a d c1 #e ch1 #a d c1 #c ch1 #a d c into the #ast ch1 99 turn1 #e ch1 into each picot #a d c1 #e ch1 #a d c1 #c ch between the picots1 #c ch1 #a d c into the #crd ch at the turning2 99 repeat4 ,the illustrations show the actual size of the crochet ribbons1 so the worker can easily gauge what width pattern she wishes to work4 ,these are so varied in design as to give plenty of choice4 ,if a firm1 close pattern is preferred1 either ,no4 #a or ,no4 #b would be suitable1 the latter being particularly strong1 the padding cord giving extra durability4 ,for an easily and quickly worked pattern1 it would be difficult to find anything to beat design ,no4 #e4 ,this has the very even flat appearance1 which renders it particularly suitable for ribbon purposes4 ,similar in appearance1 though somewhat different in the working1 is ,no4 #g4 ,no4 #h is a very lacy pattern1 particularly suitable for finer kinds of underwear4 ,illustration3 ,above are shown ribbons #e1 #f1 #g and #h4 ,these crochet ribbons will launder excellently4 ,bead ,fancies4 ,the fashion of the present day runs towards beads in every colour and design1 and although the making of beads is not exactly a needlework economy1 it is a dress economy1 and that is very nearly related to needlework4 ,i have been very successful in making all sorts of articles for ornamentation--from beads1 sealing-wax1 broken china1 a little gold paint and some glue1 not to mention a little grease and a knitting-needle4 ,i began my home-made bead-making from necessity1 because ,i was unable to find any beads to match a particular frock ,i very much wanted a string for4 ,also1 in hunting everywhere for them1 ,i found that the really artistic and barbaric ones ran into a great deal of money1 especially if they were large4 ,now ,i wanted an odd shade of blue1 which was really no shade at all1 because the material was old and had faded to the beautiful tint which it now possesses4 ,i could not procure any that were even remotely like it1 and so my idea of making some for myself was born4 ,to begin with1 ,i bought for sixpence a large box of assorted beads1 such as are sold for children to string at kindergarten4 ,sealing-wax is an ,essential4 ,at a stationer's ,i bought up a whole lot of broken sealing-wax for a very little money1 purchasing at the same time two good sticks1 one of gold and one of silver4 ,these ,i carried home and sorted as best ,i could into shades of different colouring4 ,you will be surprised to find what a lot of different tones there are to be had in sealing-wax1 though1 when buying1 be careful not to be taken in by the outside of the stick6 ,i bought what ,i thought was a beautiful shade of lavender1 but fortunately was told by the assistant that it was really a dark blue1 which had been in the window and faded6 ,blues will often fade mauve1 and reds will become pink4 ,but you will easily avoid mistakes by looking at the box which gives a description of its contents4 ,broken ,china the next ,requisite4 ,having secured what ,i wanted at the stationer's1 ,i next looked through the china pantry and kitchen cupboards to see what ,i could find in the way of broken china and glass4 ,i turned out quite a nice little heap from here1 and then went to the tool-house1 where ,i had a little store1 which ,i had dug up out of the garden4 ,i never can understand where all the broken china comes from which is always to be found in every garden when the earth is turned up4 ,i have a small basket full of all sorts1 of odd pieces in bright blues1 reds1 and yellows1 which appear to be chips from plates or saucers4 ,i should think it would take a generation of families1 and their tea1 dinner and breakfast services1 to account for the quantity and colouring ,i have by me4 ,all this china ,i washed carefully in soapy water1 rinsing in very hot clear water1 and drying whilst still hot4 ,by this means the china and glass keeps its shine1 and if set in the sun for a little while it will greatly improve the lustre4 ,next ,i sorted the colours1 and then1 with the aid of a wooden hammer and a piece of felt1 ,i cracked the china into tiny pieces4 ,be careful in doing this to put the coloured side of the china downwards1 and lay on a piece of felt1 with another piece on top4 ,hit gently1 but firmly1 and where the piece is cracked insert a nail or strong pin in the crack and hit with the hammer4 ,the cracks will split and will leave a nice edge1 which is very useful for sticking in the sealing-wax4 ,break the pieces as small as possible1 but leaving the colour to show on one side4 ,if you smash at the pieces they will powder and be of no use at all4 ,illustration3 ,a ,diagram for working the cross-stitch design on the ,bag illustrated on page #ajg4 ,this is worked on one side in green1 and on the other side in purple4 ,whatever odd beads you have1 or old pieces of coloured paste and imitation stones--which are often to be had in old buckles--spangles and bugles1 all are grist to the mill4 ,i have also used broken pieces of pebbles and stones which ,i found among the gravel1 and which were broken by the roller1 and which1 when chipped very fine1 displayed really brilliant colouring4 ,pieces of flint with a sparkle of mica look beautiful4 ,making the ,beads4 ,having completed this collection1 ,i turned my attention to the bead-making1 and ,i began in this manner3-- ,i started with a set of six large beads in blues for my chain4 ,i chose the largest beads in my assorted box1 irrespective of colour and shape4 ,taking one of these ,i slipped it over the end of a steel knitting-needle1 using one large enough to hold the bead tightly4 ,this needle ,i first greased with a rag on which a little lard had been rubbed4 ,this prevents the sealing-wax adhering to anything but the bead4 ,next ,i lit a taper1 and1 using blue wax1 ,i covered the bead roughly with it1 turning the knitting-needle in my hand1 so that the hot liquid ran round it4 ,this ,i plunged into cold water4 ,before proceeding1 ,i would like to say that great care must be taken not to smoke the wax when a taper or candle is used2 if you will heat the wax in the centre of the flame1 you will find that the colour does not become blackened4 ,as soon as the blue wax had cooled1 without hardening1 ,i splashed on some of the gold1 and1 turning the bead rapidly in the flame itself1 the gold mingled with the blue1 so forming a sort of marbled effect4 ,this ,i also plunged into the cold water4 ,then ,i chose a brilliant yellow wax1 and1 heating it in the candle flame1 ,i squeezed the tip into a sharp point4 ,this1 in turn1 ,i heated1 and dabbed it in regular intervals round the bead to form spots4 ,while the spots were still soft1 ,i pushed into the centre of each one a tiny piece of broken china1 in a pure turquoise shade1 pinching the wax to cover the rough edge4 ,do not use the fingers to the sealing-wax more than can be possibly helped1 as touching it takes away the glaze4 ,i made three beads similar to this design1 and three in a paler shade of blue1 with the same yellow spots1 but using pieces of dark red china instead of the turquoise4 ,these ,i strung with a three-inch length of small yellow beads 7which ,i bought at the same shop as the box of beads came from1 and which were also sold for children's kindergarten work7 between each large one1 and the chain1 when finished1 looked truly beautiful4 ,it certainly enhanced the beauty and value of the frock for which it was made4 ,making ,fancy ,buttons4 ,to match the chain ,i made four buttons1 used to fasten the shoulder-pieces of the bodice1 in the same colours and the same design4 ,to make these1 any old buttons that have shanks to them will do1 but have shanks they must1 as there is no other means of fastening them4 ,i had four old brass buttons1 with flat1 shiny tops4 ,with an old knife ,i scraped the face of each so as to make it rough1 as the wax adheres better to a rough surface4 ,sidenote3 ,pretty ,uses for ,beads4 ,i used a piece of cardboard--piece of an old box--and cut four small slits in it large enough to slip the button-shanks through4 ,on the other side ,i slipped a burnt match into the shank of each1 and by this means the buttons were quite firm and did not wobble about4 ,then ,i covered two with dark wax1 and two with light wax similar to the beads1 scraping away any wax which had overflowed on to the cardboard4 ,before it was cold ,i pressed a tiny ring of the small yellow beads round the immediate edge1 finishing off with a spot of the yellow wax in the centre of each1 and a scrap of broken china in the centre of that1 again4 ,i found the buttons a little rough on the edge1 but1 with the aid of a nail file1 ,i rubbed them fairly smooth1 and they did not notice when sewn on the frock4 ,i have made buttons and buckles galore from old oddments1 using up different coloured beads in an inlaid fashion4 ,a most effective way is to cover the surface of a button with a thin layer of glue1 and to lay the beads on in a design like a mosaic4 ,this is a really beautiful way of decorating buttons1 and a very pretty opaque look can be given by sprinkling the beads1 while the gum is still wet1 with a little of the flitter used in pen painting4 ,various ,ways of ,using ,beads4 ,a very pretty way of using beads also is to hem a skirt with them1 simply tacking the hem in the desired depth1 and then1 with a long cotton and needle1 make a stitch through to the right side1 slip on a bead1 pass the needle through to the wrong side1 take a long stitch underneath1 and come up on the right side for a bead again4 ,this is a most effective way of finishing a hem1 and has the advantage of being much quicker done than ordinary hemming4 ,i feel sure that1 once having tried this way1 you will confess it is very much prettier than an ordinary hem4 ,tops of tassels can be made to match buttons and bead chain in the exact manner that the sealing-wax beads are made themselves4 ,if a whole set1 consisting of chain1 buttons1 tassel-tops1 belt and shoe-buckles1 are made to match1 you have no idea how lovely they look2 and also what a very 8,parisian0 look it gives to an otherwise plain and rather ordinary frock4 ,of course1 if you are very industrious1 and would like to complete your outfit1 ,i would suggest knitting one of the ever-popular bead-bags4 ,for this all that is necessary is a ball or two 7according to the size of the bag7 of coloured knitting silk1 and a bunch of small beads1 either the same or a contrasting shade4 ,for instance1 a golden brown silk1 with tiny yellow beads1 would look beautiful1 especially were it lined with a daffodil lining1 and finished off at the end with a bead tassel made to match4 ,to make these bags you want1 as ,i say1 one ball of brown silk1 and one bunch of tiny yellow beads1 and a pair of fine knitting-needles especially made for this work1 and which are about as thick as a hat-pin4 ,to begin with1 thread a needle 7a bead needle or darner is best7 with the end of your ball of silk1 then pull out one little strand of beads and run the needle1 darning fashion1 into the thread on which the beads themselves are strung4 ,pull your silk out of the needle1 leaving a tiny piece over where the silk and cotton are entwined4 ,slip the beads along1 and you will find they go easily over the joined silk1 and so pass1 as it were1 en masse on to the knitting silk4 ,according to the size of the purse or bag1 whichever you desire to make1 so cast on sufficient stitches for one side only1 the bag being knitted quite flat1 and sewn up the sides when finished4 ,having cast on your stitches1 knit one row plain and then one row in this manner-- ,slip your needle into a stitch2 push up a bead2 knit the stitch1 and so on to the end of the line4 ,next row knit plain silk with no beads1 as the beads are only wanted one side4 ,if you do this for about eight inches1 for a small bag1 and then halve it and sew it up1 you can then mount it on a piece of brown silk to make it deeper4 ,personally1 ,i think they look much prettier when knitted on four needles2 and a very pretty purse ,i made ,i knitted first of all to a depth of three inches in plain silk1 and then four inches with the beads4 ,as ,i came to the bottom ,i narrowed off as for the toe of a sock1 finishing to a point4 ,this point ,i finished with a tassel of brown and yellow beads which matched the bag itself4 ,with a crochet-hook1 ,i made a tiny edge at the head of the bag1 through which ,i passed a draw string of silk in ordinary chain-stitch1 finished at each end with a tiny tassel4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #i ,see the article on the next page4 ,some ,embroidery ,stitches4 ,no4 #a4 ,this design in squares is suitable for working either in white or colours4 ,many useful purposes present themselves for making the design into trimmings for dresses1 hats1 etc41 as well as for the alternate squares in a checked cushion cover4 8,tenax0 is a lovely silk thread that would be suitable for these stitches4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #h4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #d4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #e4 ,no4 #b4 ,here each little diamond is worked in simple outline stitch1 and each square outlined with backstitch4 ,no4 #c4 ,this design is very suitable for hat bands and is worked in two colours4 ,the stitch used is stem stitch1 worked from left to right1 bringing the thread over two of the double threads which form a square1 then bringing it out in the centre of the two squares1 that is1 half-way back on the preceding stitch1 and carrying it down over next two squares and so on4 ,work the crossing lines first1 then fill in the spaces1 all in same stitch4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #b4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #c4 ,sidenote3 ,designs in ,squares4 ,no4 #d4 ,a mosaic design1 suitable for trimming sports coats1 hats1 belts1 etc41 also for cushion borders1 and other household purposes4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #g4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #a4 ,no4 #e4 ,this is the knitting stitch1 and is also suitable for trimming1 coats and making bands for the new knitted hats4 ,it is made with stem stitch worked diagonally4 ,no4 #f4 ,lattice work made of stem stitch4 ,a very beautiful design for present day dress trimming1 and easily and quickly worked4 ,no4 #g4 ,another design for dress trimming1 either with cotton1 silk or fine woollen thread4 ,it is just satin stitch combined with simple running stitch4 ,no4 #h4 ,like ,no4 #g1 this design is used for trimming dresses1 and tweed or serge costumes1 also worked with fine wool on crpe-de-chine for blouses1 rest gowns1 etc4 ,no4 #i4 ,another 8alternate design0 for a checked cushion cover1 equally suitable for dress1 hat and other trimmings4 ,it also makes a pretty border for table centre1 cushion cover1 tunic1 or curtain4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #f4 ,two ,novel ,bags4 ,a ,crochet ,bag ,embroidered in ,cross-,stitch4 ,ecru 8,star ,sylko10 ,no4 #h1 with ,no4 #e in green and purple for the cross-stitch embroidery were used in making this lovely bag4 ,a pair of ring handles1 dark green1 give a nice finish4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,black ,,silk ,,bag ,,with ,,white ,,beads4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,bag ,,in ,,crochet ,,and ,,cross-,,stitch4 ,commence with #e ch formed into a ring into which put #f dc4 #bnd ,row4--#b dc into each dc4 #crd ,row4--99 #a dc into next dc1 #b dc into next dc1 99 repeat4 #dth and every alternate ,row4--#a dc into each4 #eth ,row4--99 #a dc into each of next #b dc1 #b dc into next dc1 99 repeat4 #gth ,row4--99 #a dc into each of next #c dc1 #b dc into next dc1 99 repeat4 #ith ,row4--99 #a dc into each of next #d dc1 #b dc into next dc1 99 repeat4 #aath ,row4--99 #a dc into each of next #e dc1 #b dc into next dc1 99 repeat4 ,continue on in this way1 increasing the number of stitches before the #b dc into #a dc by one until there are #ahb stitches around1 then work #gb rounds more4 ,in the next #ab rows there are chs at each side4 #ast of the #ab ,rows4--#ia dc into first #ia1 #c ch1 #ia dc into next half1 #c ch4 #bnd ,row4--99 #ia dc1 #e ch1 99 repeat4 #crd ,row4--99 #ia dc1 #g ch1 99 repeat4 #dth ,row4--99 #ia dc1 #i ch1 99 repeat4 #eth ,row4--99 #ia dc1 #aa ch1 99 repeat4 #fth ,row4--99 #ia dc1 #f ch1 #a dc into the #fth ch below1 #f ch1 99 repeat4 #gth ,row4--99 #ia dc1 #g ch1 #a dc into the dc below between the chs1 #g ch1 99 repeat4 #hth ,row4--99 #ia dc1 #h ch1 #a dc into the dc1 #h ch1 99 repeat4 #ith ,row4--99 #ia dc1 #i ch1 #a dc into the dc1 #i ch1 99 repeat4 #ajth ,row4--99 #ia dc1 #aj ch1 #a dc into the dc1 #aj ch1 99 repeat4 #aath ,row4--99 #ia dc1 #aa ch1 #a dc into the dc1 #aa ch1 99 repeat4 ,sidenote3 ,two ,novel ,bags4 #abth ,row4--99 #ia dc1 #ab ch1 #a dc into the dc1 #ab ch1 99 repeat4 ,take up one of the ring handles and make 99 #bd ch1 bring these across the side of the ring and fasten to the #crd dc with a dc1 99 repeat into every #crd dc up to the chs at the side4 ,fasten the thread and cut it4 ,fasten again to the first dc after next chs and work the #bd ch loops over the other handle in the same way4 ,the design is worked in cross-stitch--green on one side and purple on the other4 ,a diagram is given for this part of the work4 ,finish the end of the bag with a tassel made of the combined threads4 ,line the bag in the usual way with light color silk4 ,a ,black ,silk ,bag ,beaded in ,white4 ,this bag is very easily made and requires only one ounce of white porcelain beads with a ball of ,no4 #ab black 8,star ,sylko40 ,cut out the bag to the required size and use the corners of the silk left over to form the four vandyke points4 ,turn a narrow hem at each side and the top of each point1 tack in place4 ,sew the beads at each side of the point with a very fine needle and the 8,star ,sylko10 each bead is put on with a 8top-stitch10 going through the centre of the hem4 ,when the four points are worked1 sew up the sides and bottom of the bag with a ,french seam1 and turning out the right side crease the edge all round and tack it1 then sew on the beads as in the points1 around the seam4 ,make a crease around the top of the bag1 one and a half inches from the top edge4 ,tack the points to this crease1 one on the centre front and another on the centre back1 then one at each side1 all with edges overlapping4 ,now sew the points to the bag with the top-stitch and bead as before4 ,make the lining to fit the bag1 turn in both top edges and tack in place with the lining edge even with the edge of the bag1 top-sew with the beads to join them4 ,make a line of running stitches about the quarter of an inch above to top of the points to make the slot for the tie-strings4 ,turn the bag inside out and sew the lining to the silk front along the line of beads at the top of the points4 ,now work a buttonhole at each side of the slot through which the narrow black riband is run1 one from each side4 ,make a small loop of the riband and sew below each buttonhole for the purpose of pulling the bag open when closed4 ,the ,beaded ,tassels4 ,with the ,no4 #ab 8,star ,sylko0 make #e ch into a ring1 #f dc into the ring1 then #b dc into each dc for two rounds1 draw the thread through the last loop and1 leaving about a yard of it attached1 cut it4 ,run the end of the thread through the eye of the fine needle and thread #bd beads1 sew this into a loop to next dc1 and repeat into every #bnd dc4 ,fasten a thread on the wrong side of the disc and bring it up through the centre ring1 thread five beads1 sew to a point and bring the thread back again through the beads1 fastening off underneath the disc4 ,a ,violet ,handkerchief ,sachet4 ,there are often small pieces of canvas left over after a piece of work is finished that are too good to throw away 7especially considering the present price of canvas7 and yet do not seem large enough to make even a tray cloth4 ,the little handkerchief sachet shown here suggests one way in which such a piece may be used4 ,the bit of canvas employed measured #ab inches by #h inches1 but two pieces half that size would do1 joined to form the two sides of the sachet4 ,single violets and leaves are worked in cross-stitch and dotted about over the sachet4 8,tenax0 ,embroidery ,thread was used in pretty shades of violet and green1 with one stitch of yellow in the centre of each open flower1 each stitch being taken over two threads of the canvas4 ,white silk was used to line the sachet1 but if you have a bit of pale primrose or pale heliotrope1 this would do equally well1 and go beautifully with the colour of the violets4 ,the edge is finished with a fine cord1 and narrow violet ribbon is used to tie the sachet4 ,diagrams are given here for working the nine little designs used on the handkerchief sachet1 each blackened square representing a cross-stitch on the canvas4 ,or you could1 if you preferred1 work little rosebuds and leaves1 or daisies1 instead of the violets4 ,one often wants to make something for a ,sale of ,work that does not involve too much outlay of time or money4 ,little sachets of this kind would be just the thing1 and would probably find a ready sale4 ,moreover1 they do not entail a great deal of work1 which is a big consideration in these busy days4 ,illustration3 ,only a small quantity of canvas is required for this ,sachet4 ,illustration3 ,the diagrams above show a bud1 a leaf1 and an open flower4 ,illustration3 ,on the left1 is the diagram of a delightful little bud4 ,the arrangement of the flowers on the sachet need not1 of course1 be strictly adhered to4 ,the little buds and blossoms lend themselves to almost any form of treatment4 ,just two or three of the violets may be used1 repeating as desired4 ,one may be placed at each corner and one in the middle1 or they may be arranged in a straight or diagonal strip4 ,the latter would be very pretty4 ,illustration3 ,these diagrams are for the flowers at the top right and bottom left corner of the ,sachet4 ,illustration3 ,below are shown other flower1 leaf1 and bud illustrations4 ,a ,rosebud ,handkerchief ,box4 ,pretty boxes have a fascination for most girls4 ,for handkerchiefs1 gloves1 and the ever-accumulating stock of collars and ribbons1 there is no receptacle quite so handy as a box1 and1 of course1 it should be pretty4 ,these are expensive to buy1 however1 and therefore the girl who wants one at little or no cost must make it herself4 ,moreover1 the one you buy is not the only one of its kind1 whereas the one you make can be4 ,the rose-box here illustrated has a little cross-stitch pattern worked on every side1 and on the lid4 ,this gives a very pretty and original effect4 ,the designs are worked in pink and green 8,star ,sylko0 on white ,hardanger canvas1 and the box is lined with pale blue4 ,to make this box1 four pieces of thin cardboard #g inches by #e inches are required for the lid and bottom of the box1 four pieces #g inches by #b inches for the sides1 and four pieces #e inches by #b inches for the ends4 ,in each case one piece of cardboard is covered with the lining material1 and one piece with the canvas1 both of which are cut a little larger than the cardboard4 ,in the case of the canvas the cross-stitch design is1 of course1 worked on before the cardboard is covered4 ,illustration3 ,a ,cross-stitch ,design is worked on each side of the ,box4 ,having covered all the pieces1 proceed to sew them together in pairs--a canvas-covered piece to a lining-covered piece4 ,then seam the double pieces together to make up the box4 ,this wants to be done carefully to be quite secure1 and1 at the same time1 neat4 ,before attaching the lid1 the seams and edges are finished off4 ,in the box illustrated this was done with ,no4 #c white 8,star ,sylko10 using three strands1 and couching down at intervals with white cotton4 ,this is continued down the corners of the box1 and completely covers the seams4 ,the lid is next attached to the back of the top edge with over-sewing1 which must be neat and yet strong4 ,finally1 the lid is edged with ,no4 #c 8,star ,sylko0 in the same way as the box1 making a little loop at each corner1 and a knot and ends at the back4 ,diagrams for working the rosebud cross-stitch designs are given1 though some other flower can be worked if preferred4 ,white canvas1 as shown1 gives a pretty1 delicate effect1 but1 of course1 this soils very quickly1 and for a more serviceable box it would be better to use a colour4 ,pale blue or pink would be delightful1 or the shades can be chosen to follow the colour scheme of the room4 ,if a plain material is used1 of which it is not easy to count the threads1 the cross-stitch can be worked over ,penelope canvas4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,diagram ,,for ,,the ,,design ,,on ,,the ,,front ,,of ,,the ,,box4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,diagram ,,for ,,the ,,design ,,at ,,the ,,end ,,of ,,the ,,box4 ,again1 if time is limited1 it is not actually necessary to work the cross-stitch designs4 ,some figured material1 such as brocade1 can be used1 or anything that you happen to have by you2 but a thin material should not be employed1 or it will tear away when you come to join the pieces together4 ,a particular attraction about this box is that it costs practically nothing4 ,the outside was made from those odd pieces of white canvas which every girl has1 and which are too small for the smallest cloth4 ,the lining was of pieces left over from making a summer dressing-gown4 ,the cardboard was from a collection of old boxes and other odd bits carefully saved1 and the quantity of #8,star ,sylko1' from balls already possessed1 was very slight4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,diagram ,,for ,,the ,,design ,,on ,,the ,,lid4 ,contents ,,page ,advantage of ,coloured ,knitting ,cottons1 ,the #fh ,apron you can make from a ,summer ,skirt1 ,an #dg ,aprons1 ,three ,pretty #i ,art of ,blouse-making1 ,the #ei ,bags1 ,two ,novel #ajg ,bead ,fancies #ih ,bead ,work1 ,modern #ij ,blouse-making1 ,the ,art of #ei ,blankets1 ,to finish the hems of #gd ,brassiere1 ,the #c ,camisole ,yoke of ,embroidered ,filet ,net and ,crochet1 ,a #f ,camisole ,yoke1 ,a ,pretty #g ,casement ,curtain1 ,the ,nursery #fg ,child's ,knitted ,petticoat1 ,a #ea ,child's ,overall from a ,narrow ,skirt1 ,making a #bh ,collars for ,cold ,days #ad ,collar1 ,mending a #dj ,coloured ,knitting ,cottons1 ,the ,advantage of #fh ,crochet ,ribbons for ,underwear ,beadings #if ,crochet #if1 #fg1 #c1 #f1 #g1 #ajg ,cynthia ,knitted ,stripe1 ,the #ga ,decorative ,stitches for ,children's ,clothes #fa ,doing up an ,eiderdown #ge ,dressmaking1 ,a ,practical ,way to ,teach ,girls #ec ,economy ,quilt1 ,the #gb ,eiderdown1 ,doing up an #ge ,embroidery ,stitches1 ,some #ajc ,fancy ,tops for ,socks and ,stockings #bc ,freshen a ,last ,season's ,jersey1 ,to #af ,gloves1 ,the ,use and ,abuse of #ah ,handkerchief ,box1 ,a ,rosebud #aaa ,handkerchief ,sachet1 ,a ,violet #aji ,hat1 ,a ,knitted #bj ,jersey1 ,to ,freshen a ,last ,season's #af ,keeping out the ,wind1 ,for #de ,knitting #ad1 #af1 #bj1 #bc1 #cj1 #cd1 #di1 #ea1 #fh1 #ga ,knitting your own ,woollen ,spencers #di ,making a ,child's ,overall from a ,narrow ,skirt #bh ,mending a ,collar #dj ,mending a ,man's ,shirt #cg ,mending a ,sheet #hg ,mending1 ,the ,wisdom of ,preventive #da ,modern ,bead ,work #ij ,nursery ,casement ,curtain1 ,the #fg ,patchwork ,quilts #gi ,patchwork ,toilet ,runner1 ,a #hi ,partly-worn ,garments1 ,utilizing #ac ,practical ,way to ,teach ,girls ,dressmaking1 ,a #ec ,quilts #fh1 #gb1 #gi ,re-footing ,made ,easy #cj ,re-heel a ,worn ,sock1 ,how to #cd ,repairing1 ,articles on #ah1 #cg1 #dj1 #hc1 #hg ,repairing ,table ,linen #hc ,rosebud ,handkerchief ,box1 ,a #aaa ,sheet1 ,mending a #hg ,shirt1 ,mending a ,man's #cg ,slippers you can make #ce ,socks and ,stockings1 ,fancy ,tops for #bc ,socks1 ,re-footing #cj ,sock1 ,to ,re-heel a ,worn #cd ,spencers1 ,knitting your own ,woollen #di ,table ,linen1 ,repairing #hc ,tacking ,stitches1 ,decorative #fa ,toilet ,runner1 ,a ,knitted ,stripe for a #ga ,toilet ,runner1 ,a ,patchwork #hi ,undercoat or ,waistcoat1 ,an #de ,use and ,abuse of ,gloves1 ,the #ah ,utilizing ,partly-worn ,garments #ac ,violet ,handkerchief ,sachet1 ,a #aji ,wisdom of ,preventive ,mending1 ,the #da ,printed for the ,proprietors of 8,,the ,,girl',s ,,own ,,paper ,,woman',s ,,magazine10 by ,,curtis ,,beamish1 ,,ltd4 ,,coventry1 ,,england4 ,,the ,,home ,,art ,,series ,by ,,flora ,,klickmann1 ,editor of the 8,,girl',s ,,own ,,paper ,,woman',s ,,magazine40 ,illustration ,,fourth ,,edition4 ,,beautiful ,,crochet ,,on ,,household ,,linen ,showing ,table ,cloths1 ,toilet ,covers1 ,curtain ,tops1 ,towel ,ends1 ,sideboard ,cloths1 ,tea ,cosies1 ,dressing ,table ,runners and other items4 #abj ,pages1 fully illustrated4 #b_/- net 7by ,inland ,post #b_/d74 8,this attractive manual is issued under the able editorship of ,miss ,flora ,klickmann the well-known authority on ,knitting and ,crochet40--,the ,queen 8,a profusely illustrated and practical up-to-date guide40--,london ,teacher ,illustration ,,the ,,home ,,art ,,boor ,,of ,,fancy ,,stitchery ,eighth ,edition4 ,with ,new ,ideas for applying ,crochet to ,lingerie ,napery1 ,bead-work and ,fancy ,stitches for ,dress ,trimmings1 ,feather-,stitching1 ,smocking1 ,hardanger ,work1 ,darned ,filet ,crochet1 ,knitting1 ,macram ,work1 ,darned ,net1 ,cross-,stitch1 ,irish ,crochet1 ,embroidery on ,flannel4 #bfc ,designs4 #b_/- net 7by ,inland ,post #b_/d74 8,it is thoroughly practical and will be welcomed by all women who delight in the craft of the needle40--,the ,lady 8,a practical little book40--,the ,birmingham ,post 8,a most useful manual of fancy work4 ,an extremely valuable addition to the needle-woman's equipment40--,the ,queen ,illustration ,,the ,,home ,,art ,,crochet ,,book ,,fourteenth ,,edition4 ,containing ,entirely ,new ,designs for ,lingerie1 ,edgings and ,insertions1 ,borders for ,tray ,cloths and ,d'oilys1 ,deep ,laces for ,table ,cloths1 and ,valances1 ,motifs for ,inlet ,work and ,irish ,lace4 #adi ,designs4 ,demy #hvo1 #b_/- net 7by ,inland ,post1 #b_/d74 8,it is a book which will be of the greatest interest to needlewomen4 ,many of the designs are extremely handsome1 the advanced worker being as well catered for as those who are not so skilful40--,the ,lady ,,published ,,at #d1 ,,bouverie ,,street1 ,,london1 ,e4,c4 #d4 ,either of the above ,books will be sent1 by the ,publishers1 anywhere in the ,united ,kingdom1 post free1 on receipt of postal order for #b_/d4 ,,the ,,home ,,art ,,series ,by ,,flora ,,klickmann1 ,editor of the 8,,girl',s ,,own ,,paper ,,woman',s ,,magazine40 ,illustration ,,eighth ,,edition4 ,,the ,,craft ,,of ,,the ,,crochet ,,hook ,a ,book of ,new ,ideas in ,crochet ,work of various kinds1 showing ,novel ,methods of applying them to ,personal and ,household ,linen and ,home ,decoration4 #aej ,designs4 ,demy #hvo1 ,paper boards4 #b_/- net 7by inland post #b_/d74 8,it is a very desirable book for the crochet-woman who is always looking after fresh patterns and fancies40 --,the ,western ,daily ,press4 8,for clearness1 variety1 and suggestiveness1 it is far in advance of anything previously published40 --,the ,christian ,world4 8,it has been well planned and carried out40 --,the ,bookseller4 ,illustration ,,third ,,edition4 ,,artistic ,,crochet ,novel ,beadings1 ,insertions and ,edgings suitable for ,underwear and ,dress ,trimmings1 ,exquisite ,floral ,designs in ,irish ,crochet1 also ,practical ,suggestions1 both simple and advanced1 for ,tea-,cloths and ,bedspreads4 #abj ,designs4 ,demy #hvo1 ,paper ,boards1 #b_/- net 7by inland post #b_/d74 8,the practical needlewoman will rejoice in this book of new ideas in ,crochet ,work40 --,the ,pall ,mall ,gazette4 ,illustration ,,the ,,cult ,,of ,,the ,,needle ,,second ,,edition ,giving directions for ,bulgarian1 ,catalan1 ,hungarian and ,baro ,embroidery1 ,amager ,work1 ,hemstitching1 ,netting1 ,wool-work1 ,bohemian1 ,carrickmacross1 ,innishmacsaint and ,reticella ,lace1 and other forms of ,needlecraft4 #ahe ,designs4 ,demy #hvo1 ,paper boards1 #b_/- net 7by inland post #b_/d74 8,women who have no particular taste for ordinary sewing and embroidery need not on that account be deterred from buying this most useful little book4 ,the fact that it is ,edited by ,miss ,flora ,klickmann is in itself a guarantee that something interesting is to be expected within the covers40--,the ,glasgow ,herald4 8,it is a perfectly delightful little manual40--,the ,lady4 ,,published ,,at #d1 ,,bouverie ,,street1 ,,london1 ,e4,c4 #d4 ,sold by all ,booksellers and ,fancy-,work ,dealers4 ,,the ,,home ,,art ,,series ,by ,,flora ,,klickmann4 ,illustration ,,second ,,edition4 ,,the ,,modern ,,knitting ,,book ,,contents ,things for ,,men',s ,,wear4 ,things for ,,women',s ,,wear4 ,things for ,,children',s ,,wear4 ,things for ,,babies' ,,wear4 ,for ,,working ,,in ,,wool4 ,designs for ,,household ,,use4 8,it is a book of charming ideas for knitted underwear1 coats and wraps1 socks and stockings1 etc40 --,the ,pall ,mall ,gazette4 #abj pages4 #b_/- net 7by post1 #b_/d7 ,illustration ,,the ,,modern ,,crochet ,,book ,fifth ,edition4 ,containing ,original ,ideas for combining ,crochet with ,embroidery and with ,fancy ,braids1 together with new unusual ,designs for use on ,household ,linen1 on ,underwear1 and as ,dress ,trimmings4 #abj pages4 #abg ,designs4 #b_/- net 7by inland post1 #b_/d74 8,this is a model of what such books should be40 --,the ,standard4 8,beautiful illustrations are used1 and these include some filet mesh motifs which are bold designs for the work which is now so popular40--,the ,guardian4 8,it is thoroughly practical and full of original and dainty ideas40 --,the ,christian ,world4 ,,the ,,modern ,,home ,,series ,edited by ,,flora ,,klickmann4 ,illustration ,,the ,,mistress ,,of ,,the ,,little ,,house ,what she should know and what she should do when she has an ,untrained ,servant4 #abj pages4 #b_/- net 7by post1 #b_/d74 8,it is full of practical information1 pleasantly put1 for every housewife40--,the ,guardian4 8,it is a most useful little volume40--,the ,lady4 ,,the ,,etiquette ,,of ,,to-,,day #abj pages4 ,illustrated4 #b_/- net 7by post1 #b_/d74 ,containing ,the ,advisability of ,social ,customs1 ,introductions1 ,leaving ,cards1 ,paying ,calls1 8,at ,homes10 ,luncheons1 ,dinners1 ,garden ,parties1 8,high ,teas10 ,town and ,country ,visits1 ,foreign ,travel1 ,conversation1 ,letter ,writing1 ,in ,public1 ,christenings1 ,weddings1 ,funerals4 ,,published ,,at #d1 ,,bouverie ,,street1 ,,london1 ,e4,c4 #d4 ,either of the above ,books will be sent1 by the ,publishers1 anywhere in the ,united ,kingdom1 post free1 on receipt of postal order 7not stamps7 for #b_/d4 ,hardanger and ,,cross-,,stitch #b_/- net 7by post1 #b_/d7 ,illustration ,,fully ,,illustrated4 ,,showing ,,handsome ,,hardanger ,,borders ,,and ,,corners1 ,,also ,,natural ,,designs ,,in ,,cross-,,stitch ,,for ,,violets1 ,,cyclamen1 ,,creeping ,,jenny1 ,,nasturtiums1 ,,daisies1 ,,roses1 ,,fern1 ,,daffodils1 ,,clover1 ,,cherries1 ,,wild ,,birds1 ,,with ,,butterflies ,,in ,,hardanger4 ,this ,volume will especially please the worker who is weary of the old-fashioned conventional cross-stitch borders4 ,it gives a series of lovely natural designs of flowers and birds1 and fruit and leaves1 such as would be a delightful addition to any woman's pretty house4 8,many beautiful modes of simple embroidery are described and illustrated in ,hardanger and ,cross-,stitch1 edited by ,flora ,klickmann1 and forming one of a series of which we have more than once noted the excellence40--,the ,church ,times4 ,london3 8,the ,girl's ,own ,paper and ,woman's ,magazine0 ,office1 #d1 ,,bouverie ,,street1 ,,london1 ,e4,c4 #d4 ,do you want to write for the ,press8 ,you will start to write the day you read this book4 ,third ,edition called for within a month of publication4 #g_/- net 7by post1 #g_/f74 ,the ,,lure of the ,,pen ,a ,book for would-be ,authors4 ,by ,,flora ,,klickmann1 ,editor of 8,the ,girl's ,own and ,woman's ,magazine02 ,author of 8,the ,flower-,patch among the ,hills10 8,between the ,larch-,woods and the ,weir10 etc4 7#a7 ,,mss4 ,,that ,,fail4 ,,why ,,they ,,fail4 7#b7 ,,on ,,training ,,yourself ,,for ,,literary ,,work4 7#c7 ,,the ,,help ,,that ,,books ,,can ,,give4 7#d7 ,,points ,a ,,writer ,,ought ,,to ,,note4 7#e7 ,,author1 ,,publisher1 ,,public4 ,it is unique in its own line1 breezily written1 and crammed full of interest and information for those who read1 as well as for those who want to write4 ,coming from so experienced an ,editor it cannot fail to be authoritative4 ,the ,bookman says3 8,the fresh and original standpoint from which the book is penned1 the innumerable new and entertaining stories1 the humour1 wisdom1 expert knowledge and common sense1 make the ,,lure ,,of ,,the ,,pen not only invaluable to the literary aspirant1 but also a work of amusement1 interest and information to the general reader40 ,,london3 #d1 ,,bouverie ,,street1 ,e4,c4 #d2 and at all ,bookshops4 8,a pendant to #8,the ,flower-,patch ,among the ,hills1' and every whit as delightful40--,the ,graphic4 ,,everyone ,,should ,,read the ,new ,book of ,cheerfulness ,,by ,,the ,,author ,,of 8,,the ,,flower-,,patch ,,among ,,the ,,hills40 ,between the ,larch-woods and the ,weir ,large ,crown #hvo1 ,cloth1 #g_/- net4 ,by ,,flora ,,klickmann1 ,editor of 8,the ,girl's ,own and ,woman's ,magazine10 etc4 ,illustration ,a ,joy-,book of the ,hills4 ,overflowing with humour1 bubbling with smiles1 yet never out of sound of the soughing of the pines1 the scold of the squirrel1 the call of the birds1 and the delicious pungent scent of woodsmoke4 ,a book to laugh over1 to think over1 and to be thankful for4 8,we are quite glad to hear more of ,miss ,klickmann's country holiday1 her fellow holiday makers1 and her neighbours1 human and other2 and of the cheerful spirit1 not stifled by the distant sound of ,war40--,the ,times4 8,another charming book which shows a keen appreciation both of nature and of the oddities of ,mankind4 ,the author's kindly humour is irrepressible40 --,the ,spectator4 8,the perception of beauty1 the descriptive skill1 the insight into character1 the homely philosophy1 the refreshing humour1 the sane outlook1 the fascinating style1 all make a pleasant appeal to lovers of good books40 --,the ,methodist ,recorder4 8,fun1 humour 7caustic but never unkindly71 social satire 7shrewd and penetrating1 yet singularly pitiful71 the reader will find in abundance in these pages40 --,mr4 ,coulson ,kernahan1 in the ,bookman4 8,it is characterised by a delightful sense of humour1 and it is written with a light and graceful pen40--,the ,glasgow ,herald4 8,the pages sparkle with humour1 and the portraits of various country characters are entrancingly funny4 ,there is more to be learned in the pages devoted to birds than in many a scientific volume40--,the ,sphere4 ,,the 8,r4,t4,s410 #d1 ,,bouverie ,,street1 ,,london1 ,e4,c4 #d4 ,and at all ,bookshops and ,bookstalls4 ,,price ,,seven ,,shillings ,,net 7by post #g_/f74 ,illustration 8,it's dood for me0 ,fry's ,,pure ,,breakfast ,cocoa ,this bonny little chap is a ,,fry',s ,,cocoa boy1 plump and strong1 with rosy cheeks3 sunny1 healthy1 mischievous1 full of life and energy4 -------------- ,have you any little 8pale faces0 at home8 ,build them up with ,,fry',s4 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's ,notes3 ,obvious punctuation errors repaired4 ,varied hyphenation was retained4 ,page #aa1 8,richlieu0 changed to 8,richelieu0 7,richelieu openwork7 ,page #bh1 8occured0 changed to 8occurred0 7may not have occurred7 ,page #dc1 repeated word 8for0 removed from text4 ,original read 7apparent need for for it7 ,page #eh1 8opportuities0 changed to 8opportunities0 7such unique opportunities7 ,page #ajf1 8crep-de-chine0 changed to 8crpe-de-chine0 7crpe-de-chine for blouses1 rest7 ,page #aac1 index1 8,brassire0 changed to 8,brassiere0 to match text usage 7,brassiere1 ,the7