,transcrib]'s ,note3 #a7 ,page #ia conta9s a footnote1 h[ev] !re is no associat$ m>k]4 ,! footnote has be5 left 9 place1 ) a note to ?is effect4 #b7 ,a lett] foll[+ is sup]script$4 ,:]e m ?an "o lett] is sup]script$1 ea* is prec$$ by ! symbol4 #c7 4,a dot above ,a h4 dot bel[ h a macron above a #d7 ,symbol3 cross patte 7also kn[n z a cross pattee1 cross patty1 cross =me or cross =my or 9 ,g]man ,tatz5kreuz7 is a type ( cross t has arms :i* are n>r[ at ! c5t]1 & broad] at ! p]imet]4 ,! "n comes f ! fact t ! %ape ( ea* arm ( ! cross 0 ?\ght to resemble a paw 7,fr5* patte74 99 99 99 99 99 ,,jewell]y ,,by ,h4 ,,clif=d ,,smi?1 ,m4,a4 ,illu/ration3 ,! ,connoisseur's ,libr>y ,,new ,,york3 ,g4 ,p4 ,,putnam',s ,,sons ,,london3 ,,me?u5 ,,co4 #aijh ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,i ,,sixte5?-,,c5tury ,,p5d5t ,,jewels ,,( ,,enamell$ ,,gold ,,cont5ts ,,page ,,li/ ,,( ,,illu/rations1 ix ,,preface1 xxxiii ,,introduction1 xxxvii ,,e>ly ,,jewell]y ,,*apt] ,i4 ,,egyptian ,,jewell]y1 #a ,,pho5ician ,,jewell]y1 #g ,,ii4 ,,greek ,,jewell]y1 #aa ,,iii4 ,,etruscan ,,jewell]y1 #bj ,,iv4 ,,roman ,,jewell]y1 #bg ,v4 ,,byzant9e ,,jewell]y1 #cc ,,vi4 ,,prehi/oric 7,,celtic7 ,,jewell]y1 #ci ,,romano-,,briti% ,,jewell]y1 #dd ,,vii4 ,,! ,,b>b>ic ,,jewell]y ,,( ,,europe 7,,! ,,great ,,migrations71 #di ,,viii4 ,,anglo-,,saxon ,,jewell]y 7,,fif? ,,to ,,sev5? ,,c5turies71 ,,m]ov+ian ,,jewell]y1 #ef ,,ix4 ,,late ,,anglo-,,saxon ,,jewell]y 7,,sev5? ,,to ,,n9? ,,c5turies71 #fe ,x4 ,,! ,,celtic ,,broo*1 #ge ,,! ,,jewell]y ,,( ,,! ,,middle ,,ages 7,,t5? ,,to ,,fifte5? ,,c5turies7 ,,*apt] ,,xi4 ,,m$i,,val ,,jewell]y 7,,introduction71 #hj ,,xii4 ,,m$i,,val ,,engl&1 #ia ,,xiii4 ,,! ,,my/]y ,,( ,,preci\s ,,/ones1 #ii ,,xiv4 ,,head-,,ornam5ts1 #aje ,,necklaces1 #aac ,,xv4 ,,p5dants1 ,,ros>ies1 ,,& ,,pom&]s1 #aah ,,xvi4 ,,broo*es--,,! ,,r+-,,broo*1 #abg ,,xvii4 ,,broo*es 7contd47--,,pectorals1 #ace ,,xviii4 ,,r+s ,,& ,,bracelets1 #adg ,,xix4 ,,belts ,,& ,,girdles1 #aei ,,r5aissance ,,jewell]y ,,*apt] ,,xx4 ,,italy1 ,,fifte5? ,,c5tury1 #aff ,,xxi4 ,,sixte5?-,,c5tury ,,jewell]y 7,,g5]al71 #agg ,,italy1 ,,sixte5? ,,c5tury1 #ahc ,,xxii4 ,,g]many1 ,,! ,,l[ ,,c\ntries1 ,,hung>y1 #ahg ,,xxiii4 ,,france--,,spa91 #aii ,,xxiv4 ,,engl& 7,,h5ry ,,viii--,,elizabe?71 #bjf ,,xxv4 ,,head-,,ornam5ts1 ,,enseignes1 ,,aigrettes1 ,,hair-,,p9s1 ,,e>r+s1 #bbb ,,xxvi4 ,,necklaces1 ,,neck-,,*a9s1 ,,& ,,coll>s1 #bcf ,,xxvii4 ,,neck-,,p5dants1 #bdb ,,xxix4 ,,girdles ,,& ,,girdle ,,p5dants 7,,mirrors1 ,,books1 ,,wat*es1 ,,sc5t-,,cases1 ,,& ,,pom&]s71 #bgj ,,lat] ,,& ,,mod]n ,,jewell]y ,,*apt] ,,xxx4 ,,sev5te5?-,,c5tury ,,jewell]y 7,,g5]al71 #bgf ,,xxxi4 ,,sev5te5?-,,c5tury ,,jewell]y 7contd471 #bij ,,engl&1 ,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury1 #bii ,,xxxii4 ,,eighte5?-,,c5tury ,,jewell]y1 #cjg ,,xxxiii4 ,,n9ete5?-,,c5tury ,,jewell]y --,,! ,,mod]n ,,revival1 #cbe ,,xxxiv4 ,,peasant ,,jewell]y1 #cda ,,xxxv4 ,,jewell]y ,,9 ,,pictures1 #cdh ,,xxxvi4 ,,frauds ,,& ,,=g]ies1 #cee ,,xxxvii4 ,,mem5to ,,mori1 #cfc ,,bibliography1 #cga ,,index1 #cha ,,li/ ,,( ,,illu/rations ,b4 ,m4 ,briti% ,museum4 ,v4 & ,a4 ,m4 ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4 ,a page-numb] app5d$ to a description indicates place ( ref]5ce 9 ! text4 ,i4 ,,sixte5?-,,c5tury ,,p5d5t ,,jewels ,,( ,,enamell$ ,,gold ,frontispiece #a4 ,p5dant 9 ! =m ( a ,triton4 ,italian4 7,m>quess ( ,clanric>de47 p4 #bdi4 #b4 ,p5dant 9 =m ( a w+$ dragon4 ,spani%4 p4 #bdi4 7,l\vre47 ,,ii4 ,,pho5ician ,,jewell]y p4 #h4 #a-h4 ,f ,cyprus & ,s>d9ia4 7,b4 ,m47 #a-d4 ,f\r gold e>r+s4 p4 #i4 #a4 ,*rysalis =m4 #b-c4 ,a pair3 birds p]*$ above a bu%el ( gra94 #d4 ,long oval r+ t]m9at+ ) a cross4 #e-f4 ,two necklaces ) p5d5t heads 9 ! ,egyptian /yle1 f ,?>ros 9 ,s>d9ia4 p4 #aj4 #e4 ,beads ( glass & gold4 #f4 ,c>nelian bugles4 #g-h4 ,two seal p5dants ( silv]1 set ) s>d sc>abs4 #i4 ,ib]o-,pho5ician /one bu/1 kn[n z ! ,lady ( ,el*4 p4 #i4 7,l\vre47 7,photo1 ,giraudon47 ,,iii4 ,,e>ly ,,greek ,,jewell]y p4 #ab4 #a4 ,?ree gold plates or discs f ,myc54 p4 #aa4 7,national ,museum1 ,a!ns47 #b-g4 ,gold ornam5ts ( ! ,myc5an p]iod4 p4 #ab4 7,b4 ,m47 #b4 ,p5dant f g9a3 figure 9 ,egyptian co/ume grasp+ geese4 #c4 ,plaque f ,kameiros3 w+$ goddess1 ) two lions 9 ! r\nd1 & owls at ! top4 #d4 ,diadem ( spiral ornam5t1 f ,enkomi 7,salamis71 ,cyprus4 #e-f4 ,pair ( lee*-%ap$ e>r+s1 f ,enkomi4 #g4 ,p5d5t pomegranate ( granulat$ gold1 f ,enkomi4 ,,iv4 ,,greek ,,jewell]y 7,,e>r+s1 ,,necklace ,,& ,,hair-,,p974 7,b4 ,m47 p4 #af4 #a-c4 ,?ree e>r+s4 p4 #ae4 #a4 ,head ( a goat ) g>net eye4 #b4 ,p5d5t ,cupids & ,victories 7,kyme1 9 olis74 #c4 ,eros ) a jug 7,crete74 #d4 ,gold necklace ) p5d5t tassels 9 =m ( pomegranates 7,kyme74 #e4 ,pair ( gold e>r+s set ) g>nets & em]alds1 connect$ by a plait$ *a94 7,tyszkiewicz ,collection47 #f4 ,gold p9 f ,paphos1 ,cyprus4 p4 #ag4 ,v4 ,,greek ,,jewell]y 7,,cr[n1 ,,necklaces1 ,,bracelet1 ,,r+s74 7,b4 ,m47 p4 #ah4 #a4 ,gold cr[n f ,magna ,grcia1 second c5tury ,b4,c4 7,tyszkiewicz ,collection47 p4 #ag4 #b4 ,necklace ) enamell$ rosettes & filigree4 7,blacas ,collection47 #c4 ,enamell$ gold necklace f ,melos4 p4 #ag4 #d4 ,gold bracelet ) bulls' heads4 7,blacas ,collection47 #e4 ,f\r r+s4 #a4 ,gold1 demon ) ,sphynx & pan!r 7e>ly ,ionic74 #b4 ,silv]1 surm\nt$ by gold fly 7,cyprus74 p4 #aj4 #c4 ,gold1 engrav$ ) figures ( ,aphrodite & ,eros4 #d4 ,gold1 ) bu/s ( ,s]apis & ,isis 7,grco-,roman74 ,,vi4 ,,etruscan ,,jewell]y 7,,p9s1 ,,necklaces1 ,,e>r+s74 7,b4 ,m47 p4 #bb4 #a4 ,hair p9s & balls ( granulat$ gold1 f ,etruria4 #b4 ,primitive necklace ( amb]1 gold1 & electrum1 f ,prne/e4 p4 #bd4 #c4 ,necklace hung ) p5d5t vases & heads ( ,io4 #d4 ,necklace ) p5d5t head ( a faun4 p4 #bd4 #e4 ,*a9 ) p5d5t head ( a negro4 p4 #bd4 #f4 ,necklace ( plasma & gold beads1 ) basalt amulet p5dant4 p4 #be4 #g-h4 ,e>r+s4 p4 #bc4 #g4 ,saddle-%ap$1 ) f9e granulation4 #h4 ,p5d5t cock 9 :ite enamel4 ,,vii4 ,,etruscan ,,jewell]y 7,,broo*es1 ,,diadem1 ,,bracelet1 ,,r+s74 7,b4 ,m47 p4 #bd4 #a4 ,e>ly fibula f ,c]vetri1 surm\nt$ ) figures ( lions4 p4 #be4 #b4 ,gold diadem ( ivy leaves & b]ries4 p4 #bc4 #c4 ,fibula f ,tuscana1 ) me&] patt]n 9 f9e granulation4 #d4 ,e>ly bracelet f ,c]vetri1 ) m9ute granul> "w4 p4 #be4 #e-h4 ,f\r r+s4 #a4 ,bezel m\nt$ ) intaglio1 gold bord] ) t5dril patt]n 7,*iusi74 #b4 ,c>t\*e ) figures ( %eph]d & dog 7,*iusi74 #c4 ,intaglio bezel support$ by lions4 p4 #be4 #d4 ,l>ge oval bezel bord]$ ) dolph9s & waves 7,bols5a74 p4 #bf4 ,,viii4 ,,roman ,,jewell]y p4 #cj4 #a-f4 7,b4 ,m47 #a4 ,gold necklace set ) g>nets1 & a p5dant 9 =m ( a butt]fly4 #b4 ,gold necklace1 ) a p5d5t aureus ( ,domitian4 p4 #cj4 #c4 ,gold hair-p9 f ,t>5tum surm\nt$ by a figure ( ,aphrodite4 p4 #bh4 #d-f4 ,?ree gold r+s4 pp4 #ca-cb4 #d4 ,s]p5t =m4 #e4 ,op5-work$1 set ) a nicolo intaglio--a mask ( a ,satyr4 #f4 ,eye-%ap$1 ) op5-"w %\ld]s1 set ) a nicolo4 #g-ae4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #g-aj4 ,e>r+s4 pp4 #bh-bi4 #g4 ,porphyry drop4 #h4 ,two pe>ls 7crotalia7 susp5d$ f yoke4 #i4 ,basket ( fruit set ) g>net1 a c>nelian bead1 & an em]ald p5dant4 #aj4 ,l>ge hook set ) sapphire1 an em]ald bel[1 & ?ree pe>l drops4 #aa4 ,gold bracelet 9 =m ( a s]p5t4 p4 #cj4 #ab-ae4 ,f\r r+s4 #ab4 ,gold3 tragic mask 9 high relief4 #ac4 ,gold3 qu9tuple1 set ) two sapphires & ?ree g>nets4 #ad4 ,gold3 rais$ op5-"w bezel set ) a sapphire & a *rysoprase4 #ae4 ,gilt bronze3 bu/ ( ,s]apis 9 relief4 p4 #cb4 ,,ix4 ,,byzant9e ,,jewell]y1 ,,& ,,enamell$ ,,jewell]y ,,9 ,,! ,,byzant9e ,,/yle p4 #cf4 #a-g & #i-aa4 7,b4 ,m47 #h4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #a-b4 ,pair ( gold loop e>r+s3 a cross pate betwe5 two peacocks confront$4 ,ab\t sev5? c5tury4 p4 #ce4 #c4 ,gold pectoral cross ) a text f ,galatians vi4 #ad4 ,elev5? c5tury4 p4 #cf4 #d-e4 ,pair ( gold & enamell$ loop e>r+s4 ,twelf? c5tury4 p4 #ce4 #f4 ,niello$ gold w$d+ r+3 ,*ri/ & ! ,virg9 bless+ a bride & bridegroom4 ,ab\t t5? c5tury4 #g4 ,engrav$ gold signet r+4 ,ab\t fif? c5tury4 #h4 ,b]es=d-,hope cross3 cloisonn enamel4 ,ab\t eigh? c5tury4 p4 #cf4 #i4 ,! ,ca/ellani broo*3 portrait 9 cloisonn enamel4 ,nor? ,italian1 sev5? c5tury4 p4 #gj4 #aj4 ,gold inscrib$ key r+4 ,f\r? c5tury4 p4 #cg4 #aa4 ,t[nley broo*4 ,probably ,rh5i% "w1 ) ,byzant9e cloisonn enamels4 ,t5? or elev5? c5tury4 p4 #gj4 ,x4 ,,prehi/oric ,,gold ,,ornam5ts ,,( ,,! ,,briti% ,,isles 7,b4 ,m47 p4 #dj4 #a4 ,r+1 f\nd at ,borm]1 ne> ,falm]1 ,sussex4 #b4 ,plait$ r+1 f\nd ne> ,wat]=d1 ,irel&4 #c4 ,r+ ,money ( gold & silv]1 f\nd at ,ru/+ton1 ,sussex4 #d4 ,torque fa/5$ by a r+1 f\nd at ,boyton1 ,suffolk4 #e4 ,disc1 f\nd at ,ca/le ,treasure1 ne> ,d\glas1 ,co4 ,cork4 #f4 ,dress fa/5]1 f\nd at ,crif ,k]an ,ca/le1 ,co4 ,armagh4 #g4 ,bracelet1 f\nd at ,bexley1 ,k5t4 ,,xi4 ,,anglo-,,saxon ,,& ,,romano-,,briti% ,,broo*es1 ,,etc4 7,b4 ,m47 p4 #fj4 #a-e4 ,anglo-,saxon inlaid jewell]y4 #a4 ,gold broo*1 f ,s>re1 ,k5t4 p4 #fa4 #b4 ,silv] broo*1 f ,fav]%am1 ,k5t4 p4 #fj4 #c4 ,gold p5dant1 f ,fav]%am4 p4 #eh4 #d4 ,bronze broo*1 f ,w+ham1 ,k5t4 p4 #fj4 #e4 ,gold broo*1 f ,ab+don1 ,b]ks4 p4 #fa1 note4 #f-g4 ,romano-,briti% broo*es4 #f4 ,bronze broo* set ) slices ( ,roman millefiori glass1 f ,pont-y-,saison1 ne> ,*ep/[1 ,mon4 p4 #df4 #g4 ,enamell$ bronze broo*1 f\nd 9 ,london4 7,ha/+s ,collection47 p4 #df4 ,,xii4 ,,anglo-,,saxon ,,& ,,franki% ,,jewell]y 7,,fif? ,,to ,,sev5? ,,c5turies7 p4 #fb4 #a-f4 7,b4 ,m47 #a4 ,gold necklace ) g>nets1 f ,desbor\gh1 ,nor?ants4 p4 #gd4 #b4 ,gold bracteate1 f ,a%1 ne> ,s&wi*1 ,k5t4 p4 #ei4 #c4 ,sauc]-%ap$ broo*1 bronze gilt1 f ,ea/ ,%ef=d1 ,b]ks4 p4 #fa4 #d4 ,squ>e-head$ broo*1 f ,*essell ,d[n1 ,isle ( ,wight4 p4 #fb4 #e4 ,cruci=m broo*1 bronze gilt1 f ,slea=d1 ,l9cs4 p4 #fa4 #f4 ,inlaid & jewell$ gold buckle1 f ,tapl[1 ,bucks4 p4 #fc4 #g4 ,radiat$ broo* ( silv]1 enri*$ ) gold & inlay ( g>nets4 ,! back inscrib$ ) ! "n ,,uffila4 ,sev5? c5tury4 ,f ,wittisl+5 on ! ,danube4 #f in*es long4 p4 #fb4 7,bav>ian ,national ,museum1 ,muni*47 ,,xiii4 ,,late ,,anglo-,,saxon ,,jewell]y 7,,sev5? ,,to ,,n9? ,,c5turies7 p4 #fh4 #a-b4 ,! ,alfr$ ,jewel4 pp4 #fh-fi4 7,a%molean ,museum1 ,ox=d47 #c4 ,/4 ,cu?b]t's cross4 p4 #fh4 7,durham ,ca!dral47 #d4 ,d[gate ,hill broo*3 cloisonn enamel & pe>ls4 p4 #fi4 7,b4 ,m47 #e4 ,e!lwulf's r+4 p4 #gb4 7,b4 ,m47 #f4 ,niello$ gold r+ ) two bezels1 f\nd 9 ! ,n5e1 ne> ,pet]bor\gh4 p4 #gb4 7,b4 ,m47 #g4 ,e!ls)'s r+4 p4 #gb4 7,b4 ,m47 #h4 ,gold r+1 f\nd 9 ,g>rick ,/reet1 ,london4 7,b4 ,m47 #i4 ,alh/an's r+4 p4 #ga4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #aj4 ,niello$ gold r+4 p4 #gc4 7,"l ,fitzh>d+e47 #aa4 ,silv] r+ f\nd 9 ! ,?ames at ,*elsea4 p4 #gc4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 ,,xiv4 ,,! ,,t>a ,,broo*4 p4 #gh4 7,collection ( ! ,royal ,iri% ,academy1 ,national ,museum1 ,dubl947 ,,xv4 ,,! ,,jewels ,,( ,,william ,,( ,,wykeham4 ,,new ,,college1 ,,ox=d4 p4 #if4 #a4 ,monogram ( ! ,virg93 gold1 enamell$1 & set ) rubies1 em]alds & pe>ls4 #b4 ,silv]-gilt decorations ( ! mitre3 compris+ two quatrefoils set ) turquoises1 two rosettes set ) pa/es1 & h+$ b&s ( brasse-taille enamel set ) pe>ls & cry/als4 ,engli%1 late f\rte5? c5tury4 pp4 #if-ih4 ,,xvi4 ,,antique ,,cameos ,,9 ,,m$i,,val ,,sett+s4 p4 #ajb4 #a4 ,! ,jewel ( ,/4 ,hil>y4 p4 #ajc4 7,biblio?que ,nationale1 ,p>is47 #b4 ,! ,s*affhaus5 onyx4 p4 #ajd4 #c4 ,! cameo ( ,*>les ,v ( ,france4 p4 #ajc4 7,biblio?que ,nationale1 ,p>is47 7,photo1 ,giraudon47 ,,xvii4 ,,m$i,,val ,,head-,,ornam5ts4 p4 #aaj4 #a-d4 ,pilgrims' signs ( lead4 p4 #aaj4 7,b4 ,m47 #a4 ,head ( ,/4 ,?omas ) swords1 )9 a cusp$ bord]4 #b4 ,ampulla = blood ( ,/4 ,?omas4 #c4 ,/4 ,george )9 a bord]4 #d4 ,head ( ,/4 ,john ! ,bapti/4 #e-h4 ,reta9]s' badges ( lead4 p4 #aaj4 7,b4 ,m47 #e4 ,h>t lodg$ 7,ri*>d ,,ii74 #f4 ,cr[n$ o/ri* fea!r 7,duke ( ,norfolk74 #g4 ,rose & fett]lock 7,edw>d ,,iv74 #h4 ,coll>$ h\nd 7,talbot1 ,e>l ( ,%rewsbury74 #i4 ,silv]-gilt cr[n or circlet1 set ) pe>ls & col\r$ pa/es4 ,fr5*1 f\rte5? c5tury4 p4 #ajf4 7,muse du ,c9quant5aire1 ,brussels47 #aj-ab4 ,?ree fifte5?-c5tury gold enseignes4 #aj4 ,antique onyx cameo1 out] frame set ) rubies4 ,spani%4 p4 #aaa4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #aa4 ,pelican 9 h] ,piety1 set ) a ruby & diamond4 ,flemi% 7f\nd 9 ! ,meuse74 p4 #aaa4 7,b4 ,m47 #ab4 ,figure ( a drom$>y 9 :ite enamel 9 frame set ) pe>ls4 ,flemi%4 p4 #adf4 7,museo ,nazionale1 ,flor5ce47 7,photo1 ,al9>i47 ,,xviii4 ,,m$i,,val ,,p5dants 7,,reliqu>ies1 ,,etc47 p4 #abj4 #a4 ,silv] reliqu>y set ) cry/al4 ,g]man1 fifte5? c5tury4 p4 #aba4 7,bav>ian ,national ,museum1 ,muni*47 #b4 ,silv]-gilt reliqu>y1 f ! treasury ( ,eng]1 ne> ,h]=d1 9 ,we/phalia4 ,fifte5? c5tury4 7,kun/gew]be ,museum1 ,b]l947 #c4 ,silv]-gilt pom&] op5+ into f\r sections4 ,g]man1 ab\t #adhj4 p4 #abf4 7,bav>ian ,national ,museum1 ,muni*47 #d4 ,gold ,reliqu>y ( ,*>lemagne1 conta9+ a fragm5t ( ! ,true ,cross4 ,g]man1 n9? 787 c5tury p4 #aah4 #e4 ,reliqu>y ( ,/4 ,l\is1 gold1 enri*$ ) transluc5t enamels1 conta9+ a ?orn f ! ,cr[n ( ,?orns4 ,fr5*1 f\rte5? c5tury4 p4 #aai4 7,b4 ,m47 #f4 ,gold bracelet4 ,g]man1 twelf? c5tury4 p4 #aeg4 7,bav>ian ,national ,museum1 ,muni*47 ,,xix4 ,,m$i,,val ,,p5dants p4 #abd4 #a4 ,silv]-gilt p5dant conta9+ figures ( sa9ts & angels1 surm\nt$ by ! ,virg9 & ,*ild4 ,g]man1 fifte5? c5tury4 p4 #abj4 7,bav>ian ,national ,museum1 ,muni*74 #b-c1 #e-h1 & #aj4 ,g]man fifte5? & sixte5? c5turies4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #b4 ,coronation ( ! ,virg91 silv] gilt4 #c4 ,agnus ,dei1 silv] gilt4 ,inscrib$3 ,,iecuc 7,,jesus7 ,,m>ia ,,johannes ,,annus 7,,agnus74 ,on ! back3 ,,jesus ,,maira 7,,m>ia7 ,,johannes ,,m>ia ,,hilf4 p4 #abb4 #d4 ,niello$ p5dant1 silv] gilt3 ) ! ,annunciation on "o side1 & ! sacr$ monogram on ! o!r4 ,italian1 fifte5? c5tury4 p4 #agc4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #e4 ,/4 ,seba/ian1 silv] gilt4 #f4 ,! ,crucifixion1 silv] gilt4 #g4 ,figures ( f\r sa9ts1 silv] gilt4 #h4 ,gold cross1 set ) rubies & pe>ls4 ,fifte5? c5tury4 #i4 ,! ,devil ( ,temptation1 silv] gilt4 ,flemi% or ,g]man1 fifte5? c5tury4 p4 #abj4 7,mrs4 ,p]cy ,macquoid47 #aj4 ,ros>y ( boxwood1 ) emblems ( ! ,passion 9 silv]4 p4 #abd4 ,,xx4 ,,m$i,,val ,,broo*es 7,,r+-,,broo*es1 ,,etc47 p4 #acj4 #a-f4 ,,gold ,,r+-,,broo*es 7f]mails74 #a4 ,set ) pe>ls & preci\s /ones1 & ) f\r bosses ( animals4 ,f\rte5? c5tury4 p4 #abi4 7,b4 ,m47 #b4 ,enamell$ blue & :ite1 & inscrib$ ) a text f ,/4 ,luke iv4 #cj4 ,fr5*1 f\rte5? c5tury4 p4 #acj4 7,museo ,nazionale1 ,flor5ce47 7,photo1 ,al9>i47 #c4 ,set ) rubies & sapphires1 ! back niello$4 ,fr5*1 ?irte5? c5tury4 p4 #acj4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #d4 ,he>t-%ap$1 inscrib$4 ,fr5*1 fifte5? c5tury4 p4 #aci4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #e4 ,circul>3 inscrib$1 & set ) two rubies & f\r small em]alds4 ,engli% 7f ,enniscor?y ,abbey71 f\rte5? c5tury4 7,b4 ,m47 #f4 ,set ) rubies & em]alds4 ,fr5*1 ?irte5? c5tury4 p4 #acj4 7,museo ,nazionale1 ,flor5ce47 7,photo1 ,al9>i47 #g4 ,silv]-gilt broo* 9 =m ( ,/4 ,*ri/oph]4 ,engli% 7f ,k+/on-on-,?ames71 fifte5? c5tury4 p4 #adb4 7,b4 ,m47 #h-ab4 ,,flemi%-,,burgundian ,,gold ,,broo*es 7n\*es74 ,fifte5? c5tury4 #h4 ,two /&+ figures1 enamell$1 & set ) a ruby1 diamond1 & pe>ls4 p4 #adf4 7,imp]ial ,art ,collections1 ,vi5na47 #i4 ,seat$ female figure ) gold5 rays beh9d3 enamell$ & set ) pe>ls4 p4 #add4 7,ess5 ,treasury47 #aj-ab4 ,broo*es f\nd 9 ! ,meuse4 p4 #adc4 7,b4 ,m47 #aj4 ,enamell$ & set ) a ruby & diamond4 #aa4 ,a female figure1 set ) a sapphire1 diamond1 & ?ree rubies4 #ab4 ,set ) a ruby amid/ foliage1 ) traces ( enamel4 ,,xxi4 ,,m$i,,val ,,scotti% ,,broo*es4 ,,! ,,gl5lyon ,,& ,,lo* ,,buy ,,broo*es4 7,b4 ,m47 p4 #acb4 #a4 ,! ,gl5lyon broo*4 ,silv] gilt1 set ) ame?y/s1 pe>ls1 & rock cry/al3 ! back inscrib$4 ,fifte5? c5tury4 p4 #acb4 #b4 ,! ,lo* ,buy broo*4 ,silv]1 set ) rock cry/al & pe>ls4 ,ab\t #aejj4 p4 #acc4 ,,xxii4 ,,m$i,,val ,,broo*es 7,,pectorals ,,& ,,morse7 p4 #acf4 #a4 ,! ,eagle ,fibula2 gold & cloisonn enamel4 ,e>ly twelf? c5tury4 p4 #ace4 7,ma9z ,museum47 #b4 ,gold broo* 9 =m ( an eagle1 set ) em]alds1 lapis-lazuli1 a sapphire1 & a ruby4 ,?irte5? c5tury4 p4 #acf4 7,b>on von ,heyl47 ,f an et*+ 9 ,kun/gew]be-,blatt1 ,,iii4 7,by p]mission ( ! arti/1 ,pr(4 ,p4 ,halm1 ( ,muni*47 #c4 ,silv]-gilt morse1 made 9 #adhd = ,alb]t von ,letel91 ,canon ( ,m9d51 by ! goldsmi? ,re9ecke van ,dress*e ( ,m9d54 p4 #aci4 7,kun/gew]be ,museum1 ,b]l947 ,,xxiii4 ,,m$i,,val ,,& ,,lat] ,,r+s p4 #adh4 #a-b4 ,episcopal r+s ( ,william ( ,wykeham4 ,f\rte5? c5tury4 7,new ,college1 ,ox=d47 #a4 ,gold set ) a ruby4 p4 #adi4 #b4 ,silv] gilt1 ) repres5tation ( ! crucifixion1 set ) a cry/al4 #c4 ,gold1 episcopal1 set ) a sapphire4 ,engli%1 f\rte5? c5tury4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #d-e4 ,! ,cov5try r+ 7two views74 ,gold1 engrav$ ) ! five w\nds ( ,*ri/ & _! names4 ,engli%1 ab\t #adeg4 p4 #aej4 7,b4 ,m47 #f4 ,! ,god/[ ,priory r+3 a gold love-r+1 ) leg5ds & =get-me-nots4 ,engli%1 fifte5? c5tury4 p4 #aej4 #g4 ,gold1 episcopal1 project+ bezel set ) a sapphire4 ,fr5*1 f\rte5? c5tury4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #h4 ,gold1 episcopal1 ( complex design1 set ) a sapphire4 ,italian1 fifte5? c5tury4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #i4 ,silv]1 set ) a toad/one4 ,g]man1 sixte5? c5tury4 p4 #aea4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #aj4 ,papal r+4 ,gilt metal ) c>d9al's hat & cross$ keys4 ,on %\ld]s ,virg9 & ,*ild & ,sa9t4 ,inscription on hoop3 ,,episc4 ,,lugdun--,c>d9al de ,b\rbon 7871 ,ar*bi%op ( ,lyons1 #adff-adhh4 ,italian1 fifte5? c5tury4 p4 #adh4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #aa4 ,antique gem 9 r$ jasp]1 set 9 gold ,italian m\nt ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 inscrib$3 ,s4 ,,fr4 ,,de ,,columpna4 p4 #aed4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #ab4 ,gold1 set ) a wolf's too?1 & inscrib$ ) ! *>m motto3 ,,buro,,b]to,,b]neto,,consummatum ,,e/4 ,engli%1 f\rte5? c5tury4 p4 #aeb4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #ac4 ,gold ornam5tal r+1 *as$1 enamell$1 & set ) em]alds4 ,italian1 sixte5? c5tury4 7,b4 ,m47 #ad4 ,gold signet r+ ) ! arms ( ,mortim]4 ,engli%1 sev5te5? c5tury4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #ae4 ,silv]-gilt w$d+ r+1 set ) two tee?4 ,nor? ,g]man1 sev5te5? c5tury4 p4 #bfb4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #af4 ,f$e r+1 niello$ silv]4 ,italian1 fifte5? c5tury4 p4 #agc 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #ag4 ,ornam5tal r+ ( silv] gilt1 set ) a foil$ cry/al4 ,g]man1 sixte5? c5tury4 p4 #cef4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #ah4 ,! ,p]cy signet4 ,gold4 ,inscrib$3 ,,n[ ,,ys ,,?us4 ,f ,t[ton ,field1 ,w4 ,r41 ,yorks4 ,engli%1 fifte5? c5tury4 p4 #aec4 7,b4 ,m47 #ai4 ,ornam5tal r+ ( silv] gilt1 ) /ag & foliage 9 op5-"w4 ,g]man1 late fifte5? c5tury4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #bj4 ,gimmel r+s1 enamell$ gold4 ,g]man1 sixte5? c5tury4 p4 #bfa4 7,b4 ,m47 ,,xxiv4 ,,picture1 ,,kn[n ,,z ,,! ,,leg5d ,,( ,,/4 ,,eloy ,,& ,,/4 ,,godeb]ta1 ,,repres5t+ ,,! ,,int]ior ,,( ,a ,,goldsmi?',s ,,%op ,,9 ,,! ,,fifte5? ,,c5tury4 ,by ,,petrus ,,*ri/us1 ,,( ,,bruges4 p4 #aee4 7,b>on ,a4 ,opp5heim1 ( ,cologne7 p4 #aef4 ,,xxv4 ,,fifte5?-,,c5tury ,,p5dants1 ,,etc4 7,,italian ,,& ,,flemi%7 p4 #agj4 #a4 ,! ,felic9i jewel1 by ,francia4 ,reproduc$ f a picture 9 ! ,bologna ,gall]y4 p4 #agj4 #b4 ,enamell$ gold p5dant1 figur$ ) ! ,annunciation4 ,italian1 fifte5? c5tury4 p4 #agc4 7,mr4 ,j4 ,pi]pont ,morgan47 #c4 ,p5d5t jewel ( ,*>les ! ,bold1 ,duke ( ,burgundy1 set ) ?ree rubies 7! ,bre?r571 a diamond1 & f\r pe>ls4 p4 #bji4 #d4 ,two silv]-gilt girdle-plates1 ) figures ( ,samson & ,/4 ,mi*ael4 ,flemi%1 fifte5? c5tury4 p4 #afc4 7,h]r ,james ,simon1 ( ,b]l947 ,,xxvi4 ,,designs ,,= ,,jewell]y ,,by ,d,,r] ,,& ,,holbe94 7,b4 ,m47 p4 #aij4 #a4 ,draw+s = two r+-%ap$ p5d5t :i/les by ,dr]4 p4 #aij4 #b-c4 ,et*+s = 7#b7 a buckle & buckle-plate & 7#c7 a girdle-end1 by ,holl>1 f lo/ orig9als by ,dr]4 p4 #aia4 #d-i4 ,draw+s by ,holbe94 p4 #bab4 #d4 ,jewell$ p5dant3 a monogram ( ! lett]s ,r & ,e4 #e4 ,a p5dant ( op5 goldwork ) ribbon ornam5t2 a diamond 9 ! c5tre1 surr\nd$ by six pe>ls1 & a pe>l bel[4 #f4 ,p5dant =m$ 9 a monogram ( ! lett]s ,h & ,i4 #g-h4 ,two p5dants ea* =m$ ( two /ones1 "o above ! o!r1 set 9 goldwork1 ) ?ree pe>ls bel[4 #i4 ,p5dant3 a bu/ ( a woman hold+ be=e h] a l>ge /one1 on :i* are ! words ,well ,laydi ,well4 ,,xxvii4 ,,designs ,,= ,,jewell]y by ,,solis1 ,,woeiriot1 ,,hornic1 ,,& ,,brosam] p4 #aid4 #a-b4 ,engrav+s = p5dants by ,virgil ,solis4 p4 #aid4 7,b4 ,m47 #c4 ,engrav+ = a p5dant by ,pi]re ,woeiriot1 dat$ #aeee4 p4 #bja 7,b4 ,m47 #d-f4 ,engrav+s = p5dants by ,erasmus ,hornick3 ,neptune & ,amphitrite1 & ,/4 ,george & ! ,dragon4 p4 #aid4 7,b4 ,m47 #g4 ,draw+ = p5d5t :i/le by ,han ,brosam]1 fitt$ ) too?pick1 etc4 pp4 #aic1 #bej4 7,mr4 ,max ,ros5heim47 ,,xxviii4 ,,r5aissance ,,jewell]y ,,( ,,enamell$ ,,gold4 7,8 ,maje/y ! ,k+7 p4 #bah4 #a4 ,pa9t$ enamel back ( a less] ,george ( ! ,g>t]1 belong+ to ,*>les ,,ii4 ,engli%1 sev5te5? c5tury4 p4 #bib4 #b4 ,enamell$ gold enseigne1 ) figures ( ,/4 ,george & ! ,dragon4 ,v5etian1 sixte5? c5tury4 p4 #bbd4 #c4 ,enamell$ gold p5dant1 ) figures ( ,apollo & ,daphne3 inscrib$3 ,,daphnem ,,phebvs ,,amat1 etc4 ,italian1 sixte5? c5tury4 #d4 ,! ,l5nox or ,d>nley ,jewel4 ,scotti%1 sixte5? c5tury4 pp4 #bag & #beg4 #e4 ,m9iature case ( enamell$ gold1 op5-work$ & set ) diamonds & rubies4 ,engli%1 late sixte5? or e>ly sev5te5? c5tury4 ,x conta9s a lock ( hair ( ,*>les ,i tak5 f 8 c(f94 p4 #beg4 ,f ! ,connoisseur 7#aijc74 ,by p]mission ( ,mr4 ,j4 ,t4 ,h]b]t ,baily4 ,,xxix4 ,,r5aissance ,,enseignes ,,( ,,enamell$ ,,gold p4 #bbf4 #a4 ,head ( ,john ! ,bapti/ on a *>g]4 ,italian1 sixte5? c5tury4 p4 #bbf4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #b4 ,bu/ ( ,hel54 ,italian1 sixte5? c5tury4 7,poldi-,pezzoli ,museum1 ,milan47 #c4 ,battle sc5e4 ,italian1 sixte5? c5tury4 p4 #bbe4 7,biblio?que ,nationale1 ,p>is47 #d4 ,head ( a negro 9 agate4 ,g]man1 sixte5? c5tury4 p4 #bbh4 7,biblio?que ,nationale1 ,p>is47 #e4 ,l$a & ! ,swan4 ,by ,cell9i4 p4 #bbh4 7,antik5 ,kab9et1 ,vi5na47 #f4 ,cameo bu/ ( ,n]o on s>donyx1 9 enamell$ m\nt set ) diamonds & rubies4 ,fr5*1 sixte5? c5tury4 7,biblio?que ,nationale1 ,p>is47 7,photo1 ,giraudon47 #g4 ,cameo ( ,diana on s>donyx 9 enamell$ sett+4 ,fr5*1 sixte5? c5tury4 7,b4 ,m47 #h4 ,onyx cameo1 w+$ female head 9 enamell$ sett+4 ,fr5*1 sixte5? c5tury4 7,b4 ,m47 ,,xxx4 ,,hat-,,ornam5ts 7,,aigrettes1 ,,etc474 ,,late ,,sixte5? ,,& ,,e>ly ,,sev5te5? ,,c5turies p4 #bcj4 #a4 ,two col\r$ draw+s = jewell$ aigrettes4 ,by ,arnold ,lulls1 jewell] to ,james ,i4 pp4 #bca & #cjb-c4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #b4 ,gold enseigne ( ,sir ,francis ,drake3 enamell$ & set ) diamonds1 rubies1 & opals4 p4 #bcj4 ,see also ,plate ,,xxxiv1 #c4 7,sir ,f4 ,full]-,eliott-,drake47 #c4 ,socket = an aigrette1 enamell$ gold set ) rubies3 initials ,d4 ,m4--,doro!a ,m>ia1 wife ( ,otto ,h5ry1 ,c\nt ,palat9e ( ,neuburg4 pp4 #bcj-a4 7,bav>ian ,national ,museum1 ,muni*47 #d4 ,enamell$ gold aigrette set ) em]alds1 pe>ls1 etc4 ,s4 ,g]man1 e>ly sev5te5? c5tury4 7,=m]ly ! prop]ty ( ,sir ,t4 ,d4 ,gibson ,c>mi*ael47 ,,xxxi4 ,,g]man ,,& ,,fr5* ,,r5aissance ,,p5d5ts p4 #bdd4 #a4 ,necklace & p5dant ( enamell$ gold set ) diamonds1 rubies1 & pe>ls4 ,g]man1 late sixte5? c5tury4 7,lady ,ro?s*ild47 #b4 ,p5dant ( enamell$ gold4 ,9 ! c5tre a table-cut em]ald ) a triangul> em]ald above4 ,fr5*1 sixte5? c5tury4 7,biblio?que ,nationale1 ,p>is47 #c4 ,gold p5dant3 on ! front two rais$ %ields ( arms2 on ! back ! initials ,d4 ,a4 ,g]man1 ab\t #aecj4 p4 #bdh4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #d4 ,cameo bu/ ( a woman1 ! head c>nelian1 ) ame?y/ drap]y1 jewell$ gold cr[n2 gold backgr\nd & black enamell$ frame4 ,g]man1 sixte5? c5tury4 7,8 ,maje/y ! ,k+47 #e4 ,p5dant 9 ! %ape ( a ,sphynx4 ,! body =m$ ( a l>ge b>oque pe>l4 ,head1 brea/1 & arms are fle%-col\r$ enamel2 ! claw opaque :ite ) gold scales2 ! tail gre51 set ) diamonds4 ,on ! brea/ is a ruby4 ,! base m\nt$ ) a r[ ( diamonds on :ite enamel1 ! creatures at ea* end be+ gre54 ,! *a9s1 ( :ite enamel set ) diamonds1 hang f a ruby1 f :i* is susp5d$ a he>t-%ap$ pe>l4 ,g]man1 late sixte5? c5tury4 7,lady ,ro?s*ild47 #f4 ,portrait cameo 9 agate4 ,gold m\nt enamell$ black & :ite & set ) f\r rubies & two diamonds1 ) a p5d5t pe>l4 ,! portrait 7unid5tifi$7 is repres5t$ on a contempor>y m$al by a nor? ,italian arti/4 ,! m\nt1 ,fr5*1 sixte5? c5tury4 7,biblio?que ,nationale ,p>is47 #g4 ,gold pom&] case3 enri*$ ) brilliant blue1 r$1 & transluc5t gre5 enamel1 & opaque :ite4 ,set ) rubies & p5d5t pe>ls1 ,g]man1 late sixte5? c5tury4 7,lady ,ro?s*ild47 ,,xxxii4 ,,?ree ,,p5d5t ,,jewels p4 #bdf4 ,gold1 enri*$ ) poly*rome enamels1 set ) preci\s /ones & hung ) pe>ls4 ,g]man1 ab\t #afjj4 7,lady ,ro?s*ild47 ,,xxxiii4 ,,p5d5t ,,jewels ,,by ,,hans ,,colla]t1 ,,etc4 p4 #bdh4 #a4 ,enamell$ gold p5dant3 9 c5tre a figure ( ,*>ity ) ?ree *ildr51 on ea* side a pila/] set ) diamonds & rubies alt]nately1 ) a cupid above1 & beyond ea* pila/] a figure ( ,fai? on "o side & ,=titude on ! o!r4 ,g]man1 sixte5? c5tury4 7,b4 ,m41 ,waddesdon ,beque/47 #b4 ,design = a p5dant by ,hans ,colla]t 7#aeha74 p4 #aif4 7,mr4 ,max ,ros5heim47 #c4 ,p5dant 9 ! /yle ( ,colla]t3 enamell$ gold1 9 ! =m ( a %ip1 ) figures ( ,antony & ,cleopatra4 pp4 #aig1 #bdg4 7,mr4 ,*>les ,w]!im]47 ,,xxxiv4 ,,r5aissance ,,p5dants1 ,,etc41 ,,( ,,gold1 ,,enamell$ ,,& ,,jewell$4 ,,spani% 7#a-b7 ,,& ,,engli% 7#c-f74 p4 #bed4 #a-b4 ,,spani% ,,p5dants1 ,,late ,,sixte5? ,,c5tury4 ,f ! ,treasury ( ! ,virg5 del ,pil>1 ,s>agossa4 #a4 ,jewel 9 =m ( a p>rot3 transluc5t gre5 enamel1 ! brea/ set ) a hyac9?4 p4 #bdi4 #b4 ,jewel ( enamell$ gold3 a dog /&+ on a scroll1 set ) diamonds1 rubies1 & an em]ald4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #c-d4 ,,! ,,drake ,,jewels3 pres5t$ to ,sir ,francis ,drake by ,que5 ,elizabe?4 #c4 ,enseigne ( enamell$ gold set ) diamonds1 rubies1 & opals2 ! c5tre ruby engrav$ ) ! ,que5's orb & cross4 p4 #bcj4 #d4 ,enamell$ gold p5dant1 conta9+ a m9iature ( ,elizabe? by ,hilli>d4 p4 #bec4 7,sir ,f4 ,full]-,eliott-,drake47 #e-f4 ,,! ,,armada ,,jewel4 ,believ$ to h be5 pres5t$ by ,que5 ,elizabe? to ,sir ,francis ,wals+ham4 ,possibly ! "w ( ,ni*olas ,hilli>d4 #e4 ,front3 ,gold bu/ ( ! ,que54 #f4 ,back3 ,ark re/+ peacefully on tr\bl$ waves4 ,inside3 ,m9iature ( ,elizabe? by ,hilli>d4 p4 #bee4 7,mr4 ,j4 ,pi]pont ,morgan47 ,,xxxv4 ,,elizabe?an ,,jewell]y p4 #bef4 #a4 ,! ,pho5ix ,jewel4 p4 #bee4 7,b4 ,m47 #b4 ,drake p5dant 9 ! =m ( a %ip4 p4 #bec4 7,"l ,fitzh>d+e47 #c4 ,p5d5t m9iature case1 ) c>v$ m$allion 9 "m-(-pe>l4 p4 #bef4 7,poldi-,pezzoli ,museum1 ,milan47 #d4 ,! ,b>bor ,jewel4 p4 #bed4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #e4 ,! ,hunsdon ,armlet4 p4 #bfe-f4 7,"l ,fitzh>d+e47 #f4 ,onyx cameo 9 gold m\nt1 pres5t$ to ,que5 ,elizabe? by ,ar*bi%op ,p>k]4 7,describ$ 9 ,ar*4 ,j\rn4 ,vol4 ,,xix47 7,mr4 ,g4 ,e4 ,lloyd ,bak]47 #g4 ,edw>d ,,vi's ,pray] ,book4 p4 #bgd4 7,"l ,fitzh>d+e47 ,,xxxvi4 ,,r5aissance ,,& ,,lat] ,,r+s4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 p4 #bfb4 #a4 ,gold w$d+ r+3 op5-"w h&s 7f$e71 inscrib$ )93 ,,qvod ,,devs ,,conivnvit ,,homo ,,non ,,sep>et4 ,flor5t9e1 sixte5? c5tury4 p4 #bfb4 #b4 ,jewi% w$d+ r+ ( enamell$ gold4 ,italian1 sixte5? c5tury4 p4 #bfb4 #c4 ,gold w$d+ r+1 set ) rose diamond betwe5 enamell$ h&s4 ,engli%1 dat$ #agjf4 p4 #cba4 #d4 ,gold1 set ) a po9t$ diamond4 ,engli%1 sev5te5? c5tury4 p4 #bfj4 #e4 ,jewi% w$d+ r+ ( enamell$ gold 9 =m ( a temple4 ,g]man1 sixte5? c5tury4 p4 #bfb4 #f4 ,enamell$ gold1 set ) a diamond4 ,italian1 sixte5? c5tury4 #g4 ,enamell$ gold1 figure ( ,cupid ) a g>net on ! brea/4 ,sev5te5? c5tury4 #h4 ,gold1 set ) a m9iature portrait ( ,james ,/u>t1 ! ,old ,*evali]4 #i4 ,gi>d9etti r+3 a basket ( fl[]s compos$ ( diamonds1 rubies1 & em]alds4 ,engli%1 eighte5? c5tury4 p4 #bie4 #aj4 ,gi>d9etti3 set ) diamonds & rubies 9 ! =m ( a vase ( fl[]s4 ,engli%1 late sev5te5? c5tury4 p4 #bie4 #aa4 ,memorial3 *as$ ) dea?'s head 9 :ite enamel1 & hav+ diamond eyes4 ,engli%1 sev5te5? c5tury4 p4 #cfg4 #ab4 ,memorial3 ) enamell$ skull4 ,inscrib$3 ,,behold ,,! ,,ende4 7,said to h belong$ to ,*>les ,i47 p4 #cff4 #ac4 ,memorial3 bezel enclos+ pa9t$ female figure1 be>+ inscription3 ,,n ,,lo/ ,,b ,,gone ,,be=e4 ,engli%1 dat$ #aghh4 p4 #cfi4 #ad4 ,memorial3 bezel enclos+ fun]eal urn 9 hair & gold4 ,engli%1 dat$ #agha4 p4 #cfi4 ,,xxxvii4 ,,r5aissance ,,bracelets p4 #bff4 #a4 ,gold bracelet ( circul> flut$ l9ks ) enamell$ clasp4 ,g]man1 late sixte5? c5tury4 p4 #bff4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #b4 ,bracelet ( enamell$ gold4 ,fr5*1 sev5te5? c5tury4 p4 #bid4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #c-d4 ,bracelet ( ,diana ( ,poiti]s1 enamell$ gold1 set ) cameos4 p4 #bff4 7,biblio?que ,nationale1 ,p>is47 7,photo1 ,giraudon47 #e4 ,gold bracelet ( ,otto ,h5ry1 ,c\nt ,palat9e ( ,neuburg 7d4 #afjd71 ) 8 wife's initials-- ,d ,m ,p ,b ,r ,g ,h ,z ,w ,v ,t 7,doro!a ,m>ia ,pfalzgrf9 bei ,rhe9 geborne ,h]zog9 zu ,wirtemb]g und ,tek47 ,comp>e p4 #bcj4 7,bav>ian ,national ,museum1 ,muni*47 ,,xxxviii4 ,,r5aissance ,,girdles p4 #bgb4 #a4 ,italian1 fifte5?-c5tury girdle ( gold tissue ) gilt metal m\nts4 p4 #afc4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #b4 ,silv] gilt *a9 girdle4 ,g]man1 late sixte5? c5tury4 7,mrs4 ,p]cy ,macquoid47 #c4 ,nuremb]g girdle ( lea!r1 ) silv]-gilt m\nts4 ,sev5te5? c5tury4 p4 #bgb4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 ,,xxxix4 ,,engrav$ ,,designs ,,= ,,jewell]y ,,by ,,daniel ,,mignot4 p4 #bhj4 7,mr4 ,max ,ros5heim47 p4 #bhj4 ,,xl4 ,,engrav$ ,,designs ,,= ,,jewell]y ,,by ,,gilles ,l,,g> ,,& ,,paul ,,birck5hultz p4 #bhb4 #a-b4 ,designs = p5dants1 seals1 & r+s2 f ,gilles ,lg>'s ,livre des ,ouvrages d',orfvr]ie4 p4 #bhb4 7,b4 ,m47 #c4 ,seal 9 ! /yle ( ,lg>4 ,! upp] "p gold ) pa9t$ enamel2 bel[1 engrav$ on /eel1 ! ,royal ,arms ( ! ,/u>ts1 ) bton s9i/]1 ( ,anne ,fitz ,roy 7b4 #affa1 d4 #agba1 m>ri$ #afgd1 ,"l ,dacre1 creat$ ,e>l ( ,sussex71 daught] ( ,b>b>a ,villi]s1 ,du*ess ( ,clevel&1 & ,*>les ,,ii4 7,col4 ,cr(t ,lyons47 #d4 ,design = a p5dant by ,paul ,birck5hultz4 pp4 #bhj-a4 7,mr4 ,max ,ros5heim47 ,,xli4 ,,engrav$ ,,patt]ns ,,= ,,jewell]y1 ,,& ,,enamell$ ,,jewels ,,execut$ ,,f ,,simil> ,,designs4 ,,late ,,sixte5? ,,& ,,e>ly ,,sev5te5? ,,c5turies p4 #bhd4 #a4 ,design = enamell$ jewell]y by ,hans ,h5sel1 ( ,sagan 7#aeii74 p4 #bhd4 7,mr4 ,max ,ros5heim47 #b4 ,gold r+ set ) flat he>t-%ap$ g>net3 design on %\ld]s res]v$ 9 gold on :ite enamel4 ,e>ly sev5te5? c5tury4 p4 #bie4 7,b4 ,m47 #c4 ,design = jewell]y 9 *amplev enamel1 by ,guillaume de la ,quewell]ie1 ( ,am/]dam 7#afaa74 p4 #bhd4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #d4 ,gold r+3 ! %\ld]s enamell$ 9 ! *amplev mann] ) design 9 black & :ite4 ,late sixte5? c5tury4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #e4 ,design = an enamell$ r+ by ,hans van ,ghem]t 7#aehe74 p4 #bhd4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #f4 ,design = enamel-"w by ,jean ,t\t9 7#afai74 p4 #bhe4 7,mr4 ,max ,ros5heim47 #g4 ,! ,lyte ,jewel1 conta9+ a portrait ( ,james ,i by ,isaac ,oliv]4 ,rev]se side1 ) silh\ette patt]n 9 gold & ruby *amplev enamel on :ite gr\nd4 ,engli%1 ab\t #afaj4 pp4 #cjc-d4 7,b4 ,m41 ,waddesdon ,beque/47 7,enamel-"w ( id5tical design occurs on ! back ( a m9iature-case1 conta9+ a portrait ( ,*>les ,i by ,pet] ,oliv]1 dat$ #afbf1 9 ! collection ( ,mr4 ,j4 ,pi]pont ,morgan47 #h4 ,design = enamel-"w 9 ! niello or silh\ette mann]1 by ,/ephanus ,c>t]on 7#afae74 p4 #bhe4 7,mr4 ,max ,ros5heim47 ,,xlii4 ,,sev5te5?-,,c5tury ,,enamell$ ,,p5dants1 ,,etc4 p4 #bij4 #a4 ,gold p5dant1 conta9+ an onyx cameo surr\nd$ by ribbon-"w & fl[]s ( col\r$ enamel1 set ) rose diamonds4 ,fr5*4 7,mr4 ,jeff]y ,:itehead47 #b-c4 ,pair ( e>r+s en suite =m$ ( a h& hold+ a b[ & bun* ( fl[]s4 #d4 ,p5dant3 an int]lac$ monogram ( turquoise enamel susp5d$ f a cr[n-%ap$ ornam5t1 enamell$ & set ) diamonds4 ,fr5*4 7,mr4 ,jeff]y ,:itehead47 #e4 ,gold p5dant ( v>iegat$ enamel 7transluc5t & opaque7 9 =m ( a basket fill$ ) fruit1 ) fl[]s above1 & a bird on ! top4 7,h4 ,c4 ,s47 #f4 ,small aigrette ( silv] 9 =m ( a bun* ( fl[]s spr++ f a vase1 set ) rose diamonds1 & be>+ traces ( enamel4 7,h4 ,c4 ,s47 ,,xliii4 ,,sev5te5?-,,c5tury ,,enamell$ ,,m9iature-,,cases1 ,,lockets1 ,,etc4 p4 #bib4 ,a#a4 ,gold m9iature-case by ,jean ,t\t93 ! design res]v$ 9 gold on a gr\nd ( black enamel4 p4 #bic4 7,mr4 ,j4 ,pi]pont ,morgan47 #b4 ,gold m9iature-case1 transluc5t gre5 enamel1 ) patt]n 9 :ite1 f a design by ,pi]re ,fir5s4 p4 #bic4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m41 ,dyce ,collection47 ,a#c4 ,gold m9iature-case ( transluc5t gre5 enamel 7mail en rsille7 ) pea-pod design 9 gre5 & r$2 enclos+ m9iature ( ,*>les ,,ii by ,samuel ,coop]4 p4 #bic4 7,mr4 ,j4 ,pi]pont ,morgan47 ,a#d4 ,cry/al reliqu>y m\nt$ 9 enamell$ gold & set ) a plaque ( v]re glomis4 ,spani%1 ab\t #afjj4 p4 #bjc4 7,mr4 ,j4 ,pi]pont ,morgan47 ,a#e4 ,gold locket ( purple enamel ) floral design 9 :ite1 yell[1 & gre5 on gold 7mail en rsille74 ,fr5*4 7,mr4 ,j4 ,pi]pont ,morgan47 #f4 ,p5dant1 set ) a cameo ( ,lucrezia de' ,m$ici 9 op5-"w floral bord] ( pa9t$ enamel4 ,fr5*4 p4 #bib4 7,biblio?que ,nationale1 ,p>is47 ,a#g4 ,gold m9iature-case ( op5-"w design enamell$ 9 gre51 blue1 & :ite2 conta9+ a m9iature ( ,james ,i4 ,engli%4 7,mr4 ,j4 ,pi]pont ,morgan47 #h4 ,gold locket ) pa9t$ 7,l\is-,treize7 enamel ( v>i\s col\rs 9 relief on blue gr\nd4 ,engli%4 p4 #bic4 7,mrs4 ,b4 ,spr+-,rice47 ,a ,reproduc$ by p]mission ( ,dr4 ,williamson1 act+ on behalf ( ,mr4 ,j4 ,pi]po9t ,morgan4 ,copyright res]v$4 ,,xliv4 ,,r+s1 ,,slides1 ,,& ,,p5dants 7,,*iefly ,,memorial74 ,,sev5te5? ,,& ,,e>ly ,,eighte5? ,,c5turies p4 #bid4 #a4 ,memorial r+1 black enamel3 set ) cry/al ov] a skull & cross-bones2 dat$ #agdj4 #b4 ,gold memorial locket ) facet$ cry/al enclos+ hair2 inscrib$ beh9d3 ,( su* is ! ,k+dom ( ,god4 ,engli%1 late sev5te5? c5tury4 p4 #cfh4 #c4 ,memorial r+1 black enamel2 dat$ #aggg4 #d4 ,memorial r+1 :ite enamel2 dat$ #agci4 #e4 ,memorial r+1 :ite enamel2 dat$ #agic4 #f4 ,memorial r+1 black enamel2 set ) facet$ cry/al enclos+ m9ute patt]n 9 gold wire4 ,engli%1 e>ly eighte5? c5tury4 7#a--f--;,h4 ,c4 ,s47 #g4 ,back ( a gold slide3 pa9t$ enamel ) initials ,e4 ,j4 b5ea? a coronet4 7,visc\nt ,falkl&47 #h4 ,gold r+3 op5-"w floral patt]n 9 pa9t$ enamel2 inscrib$ ) a posy4 p4 #bie4 7,visc\nt ,falkl&47 #i4 ,silv] locket surr\nd$ by pe>ls1 ) facet$ cry/al enclos+ monogram 9 gold wire4 ,engli%1 late sev5te5? c5tury4 p4 #cfh4 7,mrs4 ,/ew>t ,k+47 #aj-ad4 ,memorial slides1 ) v>i\s devices & initials 9 gold wire ov] hair or ribb$ silk b5ea? facet$ cry/al4 ,engli%1 late sev5te5? & e>ly eighte5? c5turies4 p4 #cfh4 7,mr4 ,jeff]y ,:itehead47 #ae4 ,gold p5dant set ) an antique ,roman cameo 9 op5-"w floral bord] ( pa9t$ enamel4 ,engli%1 sev5te5? c5tury4 p4 #bib4 7,8 ,maje/y ! ,k+47 #af4 ,mem5to ,mori jewel ( enamell$ gold2 inscrib$ r\nd ! sides3 ,?r\gh ! resurrection ( ,*ri/e we be all sanctifi$4 ,engli%1 ab\t #afjj4 p4 #cfe4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #ag4 ,gold p5dant set ) a cameo ( ,lucius ,v]us1 9 bord] ( pea-pod ornam5t4 ,f a design by ,pi]re ,m>*ant4 ,fr5*1 e>ly sev5te5? c5tury4 p4 #bib4 7,b4 ,m47 ,,xlv4 ,,page ,,f ,,! ,,l$g] ,,( ,,sir ,,francis ,,*ild1 ,,jewell] ,,to ,,william ,,iii4 ,ab\t #afgd4 ,pres]v$ at ,*ild's ,bank1 ,no4 #a ,fleet ,/reet1 ,london1 ,e4 ,c4 p4 #cjf4 7,by p]mission ( ,mr4 ,f4 ,g4 ,hilton ,price47 p4 #cjd4 ,,xlvi4 ,,eighte5?-,,c5tury ,,jewell]y1 ,,fr5* ,,& ,,engli% p4 #caf4 #a-c4 ,p5dant1 & two e>r+s en suite conta9+ pa9t+s en grisaille on "m-(-pe>l1 9 gold frames set ) rubies1 diamonds1 & /r+s ( pe>ls4 ,fr5*1 ,l\is ,,xvi4 7,mr4 ,jeff]y ,:itehead47 #d4 ,rosette-%ap$ broo* pav ) :ite pa/e ( f9e quality4 ,engli%1 e>ly eighte5? c5tury4 7,col4 ,cr(t ,lyons47 #e-f4 ,pair ( gir&ole e>r+s ) pa/e sapphires4 ,=m]ly ! prop]ty ( ,madame du ,b>ry4 ,fr5*1 ,l\is ,,xv4 p4 #bag4 7,lady ,monckton47 #g4 ,necklet & p5dant ( p9k pa/e & m>casite4 ,engli%1 ab\t #agfj4 7,col4 ,cr(t ,lyons47 ,,xlvii4 ,,eighte5?-,,c5tury ,,necklaces1 ,,etc4 7,mr4 ,jeff]y ,:itehead7 p4 #cbj4 #a4 ,necklet & p5dant ( pa/e 9 silv] sett+4 ,engli%4 #b-c4 ,pair ( oval memorial clasps conta9+ grisaille pa9t+s )9 pe>l bord]s4 ,engli%4 p4 #cfi4 #d4 ,necklace ( cut /eel ) ,w$gwood cameos 9 :ite on blue4 ,engli%4 ,,lxviii4 ,,eighte5?-,,c5tury ,,*atela9es 7,mr4 ,jeff]y ,:itehead7 p4 #cbb4 #a4 ,*atela9e 7equipage7 ( cut /eel m\nt$ ) ,w$gwood w>e 9 :ite cameo on blue jasp] gr\nd1 hung ) a wat* & two wat* keys4 ,engli%1 ab\t #aghj4 #b4 ,*atela9e 7equipage7 ( gold =m$ ( a hook ) five p5dants--a scissor-case1 two ?imble or sc5t cases1 & two ne$le or bodk9 cases4 ,fr5*1 ,l\is ,,xv4 p4 #cbc4 #c4 ,oval memorial clasp ( blue enamel ) m9ute design 9 c>v$ ivory & pe>l "w1 m\nt$ 9 pa/e frame4 ,engli%4 p4 #cfi4 ,,xlix4 ,,empire ,,head-,,ornam5ts p4 #cbf4 #a4 ,empire ti>a ( rose diamonds set 9 silv]1 on gold m\nts4 7,mrs4 ,kirby47 #b4 ,empire head-ornam5t 7b&eau7 ( gold1 enri*$ ) blue enamel1 & set ) tw5ty-five c>nelian intaglios4 ,=m]ly ! prop]ty ( ! ,empress ,joseph9e4 7,mr4 ,m4 ,g4 ,lloyd ,bak]47 #c4 ,empire comb en suite set ) f\r c>nelian intaglios4 7,mr4 ,m4 ,g4 ,lloyd ,bak]47 ,l4 ,,e>ly ,,n9ete5?-,,c5tury ,,jewell]y p4 #cbh4 #a-b4 ,pair ( e>r+s 9 =m ( baskets ( fl[]s1 enamell$1 & set ) turquoises & pe>ls4 7,mr4 ,jeff]y ,:itehead47 #c-d4 ,pair ( bracelet clasps ( bead$ goldwork set ) v>i\s col\r$ /ones1 ) ,cr[n & ,royal cyph] 9 enamel4 ,=m]ly ! prop]ty ( ,que5 ,*>lotte4 7,mr4 ,jeff]y ,:itehead47 #e4 ,necklace & p5d5t cross1 ) broo* & e>r+s en suite3 ( bead$ gold & filigree1 set ) p9k topazes & pe>ls4 ,engli%4 7,lady ,ramsay47 #f4 ,necklace1 ) broo* & e>r+ en suite1 ( col\r$ gold set ) ame?y/s & pe>ls4 ,engli%4 7,lady ,ramsay47 ,,li4 ,,buckles ,,& ,,necklaces4 ,,late ,,eighte5? ,,& ,,e>ly ,,n9ete5? ,,c5turies p4 #ccj4 #a-b4 ,pair ( /eel buckles p>tly plat$ ) silv]4 ,sign$ ,w4 ,hipk9s4 p4 #cae4 7,h4 ,c4 ,s47 #c4 ,girdle-clasp ( facet$ /eel4 ,engli% 7,birm+ham71 late eighte5? c5tury4 p4 #cae4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #d4 ,gold %oe-buckle4 ,engli%1 eighte5? c5tury4 p4 #cbb4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 #e4 ,silv] girdle-buckle4 ,engli%1 eighte5? c5tury4 7,h4 ,c4 ,s47 #f4 ,silv] %oe-buckle4 ,engli%1 eighte5? c5tury4 7,h4 ,c4 ,s47 #g4 ,necklace ( delicate gold filigree enri*$ ) blue enamel & set ) sapphire pa/es4 ,e>ly n9ete5? c5tury4 7,mrs4 ,holman ,hunt47 #h4 ,necklace ( ca/ iron m\nt$ ) gold3 ! oval plaques1 9 op5-"w1 alt]nately a spray ( fl[]s & a figure subject 9 ! /yle ( an antique gem4 ,prussia 7,b]l971 e>ly n9ete5? c5tury4 p4 #ccj4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 ,,lii4 ,,mod]n ,,fr5* ,,jewell]y4 7,v4 & ,a4 ,m47 p4 #cch4 #a4 ,enamell$ gold broo*4 ,by ,georges ,f\quet4 #b4 ,neck-ornam5t 7plaque de colli]73 c>v$ horn1 set ) p9k b>oque pe>ls4 ,by ,r5 ,lalique4 #c4 ,p9 = ! hair1 gold1 set ) opals & diamonds4 ,by ,ga/on ,laffitte4 #d4 ,gold p5dant set ) diamonds & an opal1 & enri*$ ) op5-"w transluc5t enamel 9 high relief4 ,by ,comte du ,suau de la ,croix4 #e4 ,enamell$ gold p5dant1 set ) diamonds1 opals1 & em]alds4 ,by ,g4 ,gautra94 ,,liii4 ,,spani%1 ,,portuguese1 ,,flemi%1 ,,& ,,fr5* ,,peasant ,,jewell]y1 ,,etc4 p4 #cdb4 #a4 ,b[-%ap$ brea/-ornam5t ( gold set ) em]alds1 & hav+ l>ge em]ald p5dant4 ,spani%1 sev5te5? c5tury4 p4 #bjd4 7,mrs4 ,close47 #b4 ,e>r+ ( gold filigree hung ) p5dants4 ,portuguese4 p4 #cdg4 7,lady ,cook1 ,viscondessa de ,mons]rate47 #c4 ,gold p5dant set ) rose diamonds m\nt$ on silv] rosettes4 ,flemi%1 eighte5? c5tury4 p4 #cde4 7,h4 ,c4 ,s47 #d4 ,silv] cross set ) cry/als4 ,fr5* 7,norm&y74 p4 #cdb4 7,h4 ,c4 ,s47 #e4 ,p5d5t badge ( brass1 enamell$ black1 :ite1 & blue1 conta9+ a cr[n$ monogram ( ! ,virg94 ,spani% 7,b>celona71 sev5te5? c5tury4 p4 #bjd4 7,h4 ,c4 ,s47 ,,liv4 ,,adriatic ,,jewell]y4 p4 #cdf4 #a4 ,p5dant 9 =m ( a %ip1 enri*$ ) col\r$ enamels & hung ) clu/]s ( pe>ls4 7,mr4 ,jeff]y ,:itehead47 #b4 ,%ip p5dant ( gold filigree hung ) pe>ls4 7,mr4 ,jeff]y ,:itehead47 #c-d4 ,pair ( enamell$ e>r+s hung ) clu/]s ( pe>ls4 7,mr4 ,jeff]y ,:itehead47 #e4 ,long e>r+ ( gold filigree m\nt$ & hung ) pe>ls4 7,mr4 ,jeff]y ,:itehead47 #f-h4 ,p5dant & pair ( e>r+s1 ( gold filigree enri*$ ) col\r$ enamels4 ,f ! ,isl& ( ,patmos4 7,mr4 ,cecil ,h4 ,smi?47 ,,illu/rations ,,9 ,,! ,,text ,safety-p9 xli ,romano-,briti% broo* or fibula ) bilat]al spr+ xlii ,broo* =m$ ( d\ble spiral discs ( conc5tric wire 7,spectacle fibula7 xlii ,celtic broo* xliii ,r+-broo* 7,tomb ( ,que5 ,b]5g>ia ( ,nav>re1 wife ( ,ri*>d ,coeur de ,lion1 at ,le ,mans7 xliii ,buckle1 ) buckle-plate & tag4 ,g]man1 ab\t #adij4 7,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum7 xlvi ,bronze fibula4 7,irel&7 xlvii ,coll> ( ! ,ord] ( ! ,gold5 ,fleece1 made 9 #adcb by ,john ,peut91 ( ,bruges1 jewell] to ,philip ! ,good1 ,duke ( ,burgundy4 7,f ! portrait ( ,baldw9 de ,lannoy by ,john van ,eyck at ,b]l97 #ij ,int]ior ( a jewell]'s %op4 ,f ,kreut]bu*4 7,frank=t1 #aecf7 #ih ,gold r+ engrav$ & enamell$ ) figures ( ! ,virg9 & ,*ild & ,/4 ,john ! ,evangeli/4 ,scotti%1 fifte5? c5tury4 7,nat4 ,museum ( ,antiquities1 ,ed9burgh7 #ajd ,necklace worn by ! daught] ( ,tommaso ,port9>i 9 ,van d] ,goes' tripty* 9 ! ,uffizi ,gall]y1 ,flor5ce #aag ,pom&]4 ,f ,kreut]bu*4 7,frank=t1 #aefi7 #abf ,a m$ival lapid>y4 ,f ,ortus ,sanitatis4 7,/rasburg1 ab\t #adig7 #acd ,mantle clasp 7portion7 on effigy ( ,h5ry ,,iv4 7,cant]bury ,ca!dral7 #adj ,broo* ( ! ,virg9 9 ,lo*n]'s ,dombild4 7,cologne ,ca!dral7 #ade ,engli% gold r+1 fifte5? c5tury4 ,engrav$ ) ! ,annunciation1 & ! words en bon an4 7,mr4 ,e4 ,ri*>dson-,cox7 #aej ,fr5* gold r+1 f\rte5? c5tury4 7,l\vre7 #aed ,a goldsmi? 9 8 work%op4 ,f ,hortus ,sanitatis4 7,/rasburg1 #aecf7 #aeh ,luck5boo? broo* ( silv]4 7,nat4 ,museum ( ,antiquities1 ,ed9burgh7 #afe ,p5dant worn by "o ( ! ,?ree ,graces 9 ,botticelli's ,primav]a4 #afi ,jewel1 9 ,ghirl&aio's portrait ( ,giovanna ,tornabuoni #agj ,broo* worn by ! ,virg9 on fifte5?-c5tury ,flor5t9e picture 7,no4 #bif1 ,national ,gall]y1 ,london7 #agd ,a fifte5?-c5tury jewell]4 ,f ,ortus ,sanitatis4 7,/rasburg1 ab\t #adig7 #agf ,design = a p5d5t :i/le by ,hans ,brosam] #aih ,design = a p5dant by ,hans ,brosam] #bje ,e>r+1 f ,portrait ( a ,lady by ,sodoma4 7,frank=t ,gall]y7 #bcc ,design = a p5dant by ,jacques ,&r\et ,duc]ceau #bda ,! ,p5ruddock ,jewel #beb ,triple r+s set ) po9t$ diamonds4 ,device ( ,cosimo de' ,m$ici4 ,f ,paolo ,giovio's ,dialogo dell' imprese4 7,figur$ 9 ,botticelli's ,pallas 9 ! ,pitti ,gall]y7 #bfj ,r+s on a roll ( p>*m5t4 ,f ,kreut]bu*4 7,frank=t1 #aecf7 #bfc ,design = a bracelet by ,jacques ,&r\et ,duc]ceau #bfi ,jean ,t\t9 9 8 work%op1 fir+ an enamell$ jewel #bhi ,design = a p5d5t m9iature-frame by ,pi]re ,m>*ant #cjf ,,preface ,! t]m ,jewell]y is us$ g5]ally 9 a v wide s5se1 & x has be5 necess>y to impose c]ta9 limitations ^u its mean+ = ! purpose ( ! pres5t "w4 ,jewell]y may be def9$ z compris+ v>i\s objects adapt$ to p]sonal ornam5t1 preci\s 9 !mselves or r5d]$ preci\s by _! workman%ip4 ,! jewel worn z a p]sonal ornam5t may be m]ely decorative1 su* z ! aigrette or ! p5dant1 or x may be useful z well z ornam5tal1 su* z ! broo* or ! girdle4 ,gems & preci\s /ones are n jewels1 9 ! pres5t s5se1 until ! jewell]'s skill has wr\ght & set !m4 ,?is def9ition w be f\nd to correspond ) ! t]m m9ut]ia adopt$ by ,italian writ]s on ! goldsmi?'s art = objects 9 preci\s mat]ials employ$ = ! adornm5t ( ! p]son1 z di/9ct f gross]ia--^? fa%ion$ = h\sehold use or ornam5t4 ,) ! exception ( a *apt] deal+ ) ,egyptian jewell]y1 ,i h conf9$ myself solely to ,europe4 ,! "w falls into f\r ma9 divisions4 ,! fir/ deals ) ! jewell]y worn dur+ classical times1 & until ! n9? c5tury ( our era4 ,! second treats ( ! jewels ( ! ,middle ,ages4 ,! ?ird is devot$ to ! jewels ( ! ,r5aissance1 & ! f\r? includes ^? ( subsequ5t times4 ,9 ! *apt]s deal+ ) ,r5aissance & lat] jewell]y ,i h endeav\r$ to utilise ! valuable evid5ce1 hi!rto g5]ally ov]look$ or neglect$1 :i* may be d]iv$ f ! engrav$ designs & work+ draw+s ( jewell]s1 f p]sonal inv5tories1 & f pictures by ! old ma/]s4 ,p]haps too g5]\s a %>e ( att5tion has be5 be/[$ on ,engli% "w2 b ?is may be p>don$ :5 x is rememb]$ t ! previ\s lit]ature ( jewell]y has be5 almo/ entirely f ! p5s ( ,fr5* & ,g]man writ]s4 ,:ile fully appreciat+ ! importance & int]e/ ( ! rec5t revival ( arti/ic jewell]y1 ,i h n ?\ght x necess>y1 9 a book int5d$ ma9ly = ! connoisseur1 to give m ?an a rapid review ( ! ma9 features ( ! mod]n movem5t1 ) a brief m5tion ( "s prom95t craftsm5 !re9 employ$4 ,= simil> reasons no g5]al acc\nt is giv5 ( ! processes ( manufactur+ articles ( jewell]y1 ?\gh ref]5ces are made to te*nical me?ods :5 !y s]ve to expla9 po9ts ( arti/ic importance4 ,assi/ance has be5 suppli$ by num]\s works4 ,! l>ge/ debt is due to ! le>n$ art hi/orian ,f]d9& ,lu?m]1 ^: /&>d "w ,gold und ,silb] has af=d$ mo/ important aid4 ,f ,rckl9's ,s*muckbu* ,i h con/antly d]iv$ in/ruction2 & ,font5ay's ,bij\x anci5s et mod]nes has be5 a /oreh\se ( in=mation4 ,o!r books :i* h be5 ( s]vice are includ$ 9 ! ,bibliography4 ,x is n[ my duty & pleasure to express my obligations to all ^? ^: unv>y+ k9dness has facilitat$ my rese>*es4 ,special ?anks are due3 to ,lady ,ro?s*ild1 :o has pres5t$ me ) photographs1 specially tak5 = ! purpose1 ( "s ( h] *oice/ jewels2 to ,lady ,full]-,eliott-,drake1 :o at consid]able p]sonal inconv5i5ce br\ght ! ,drake jewels to ,london2 to ,mr4 ,jeff]y ,:itehead1 :o despat*$ = my use a numb] ( jewels f 8 collection2 to ,mr4 ,max ,ros5heim1 :o1 besides plac+ at my disposal 8 unrivall$ s]ies ( engrav$ designs = jewell]y1 has read ?r\gh & correct$ ! portion ( ! subject deal+ ) engrav$ ornam5t2 to ,sir ,john ,evans1 ,k4,c4,b41 :o has guid$ me p]sonally ?r\gh 8 spl5did collections ( e>ly jewell]y2 & to ,dr4 ,williamson1 = assi/+ me 9 _m ways1 & = ! loan1 on behalf ( ,mr4 ,j4 ,pi]pont ,morgan1 ( copyright photographs ( ! f9e/ enamell$ m9iature-cases f 8 catalogue ( ,mr4 ,morgan's collection1 ) leave to describe & reproduce su* ( !m z ,i might select = ?is volume4 ,among ^? :o h fav\r$ me ) p]mission to publi% ! treasures 9 _! possession ,i mu/ gratefully m5tion ,lady ,cook 7,viscondessa de ,mons]rate71 ,lady ,ramsay1 ,lady ,monckton1 ,mrs4 ,holman ,hunt1 ,mrs4 ,p]cy ,macquoid1 ! ,m>quess ( ,clanric>de1 ,visc\nt ,falkl&1 & ,"l ,fitzh>d+e2 also ,h]r ,james ,simon1 ( ,b]l91 & ,lieut4-,col4 ,g4 ,b4 ,cr(t ,lyons1 :o h pres5t$ me ) photographs ( _! jewels4 ,?anks are also due to ,dr4 ,kit*91 ,dean ( ,durham1 = ! photograph ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t's ,cross2 to ,dr4 ,spoon]1 ,w>d5 ( ,new ,college1 = p]mission & aid 9 photograph+ ! ,new ,college jewels2 to ,dr4 ,j4 ,&]son1 ,director ( ! ,national ,museum ( ,antiquities ( ,scotl&1 = ! loan ( blocks ( two jewels 9 ! ,ed9burgh ,museum2 to ,mr4 ,f4 ,g4 ,hilton ,price1 :o enabl$ me to photograph ! old l$g]s 9 ,*ild's ,bank2 & to ,mr4 ,j4 ,t4 ,h]b]t ,baily1 = leave to reproduce illu/rations to my articles on ! ,k+'s gems & jewels at ,w9dsor ,ca/le 9 ! ,connoisseur 7#aijb-c74 ,! names ( _m o!rs1 :o h k9dly l5t me jewels or photographs1 w be f\nd1 atta*$ to ! individual objects1 9 ! ,li/ ( ,illu/rations4 ,i w\ld especially ?ank1 among/ o!rs1 ! foll[+ (fic]s ( ! ,cont95tal museums :o h g5]\sly pres5t$ me ) photographs ( articles ( jewell]y 9 ! collections "u _! *>ge1 or h aid$ me ) _! advice3--,sir ,h5ry ,ang/1 ,k4,c4,m4,g41 ,briti% ,consul-,g5]al = ,switz]l&1 late ,director ( ! ,zuri* ,museum2 ,m4 ,e4 van ,ov]loop1 ,cons]vator ( ! ,royal ,museums1 ,brussels2 ,dr4 ,l9d5s*midt1 ,director ( ! ,ma9z ,museum2 ,dr4 ,h]mann ,j4 ,h]mann1 ,keep] ( ! ,imp]ial ,art ,collections1 ,vi5na2 ,dr4 ,wilhelm ,behncke1 late ( ! ,kun/gew]be ,museum1 ,b]l92 ,dr4 ,h4 ,graf1 ,director ( ! ,bav>ian ,national ,museum1 ,muni*2 ,dr4 ,l4 ,curtius1 ( ! ,antiqu>ium1 ,muni*2 & ,m4 ,j4 de ,foville1 ( ! ,cab9et des ,mdailles1 ,biblio?que ,nationale1 ,p>is4 ,grateful ackn[l$gm5t is also due to ! (fic]s ( ! ,briti% ,museum = ! help !y h giv5 me1 p>ticul>ly to ,mr4 ,cyril ,dav5port = num]\s valuable sugge/ions4 ,to my colleagues 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum ,i owe cordial ?anks = mu* enc\ragem5t & help1 p>ticul>ly to ,mr4 ,a4 ,van de ,put = 8 aid 9 read+ ?r\gh ! pro(s ( ?is volume2 & above all to ,mr4 ,m>t9 ,h>die1 ,a4,r4,e41 :o1 besides execut+ ! p5-draw+s :i* illu/rate ! text1 has assi/$ me 9 v>i\s ways1 & ?r\gh\t ! :ole c\rse ( ! pres5t "w has fav\r$ me ) con/ant advice & sugge/ions4 ,h4 ,,clif=d ,,smi? ,,introduction ,! love ( ornam5t prompt$ by vanity is inh]5t 9 ! human race4 ,a mo/ primitive in/9ct ( human be+s is to make _! p]sons m beautiful1 m impos+1 or m /rik+ by ornam5tation4 ,?is incl9ation is z old z dress itself1 nay1 p]haps1 dates ev5 fur!r back4 ,= !re are tribes to :om climate & civilisation h n yet sugge/$ ! necessity ( clo?+ ! body1 b :o nev]!less possess ornam5ts ( "s degree ( developm5t4 ,f ! rude/ ( beg9n+s up to ! la/ ref9em5ts ( art1 jewell$ ornam5ts h ev] ! same purpose 9 view--to give prom95ce to individual p>ts ( ! body by means ( glitt]+1 beautiful objects :i* involunt>ily draw ! eye ( ! spectator 9 ! desir$ direction4 ,jewell]y is n only worn ) ! purpose ( attract+ att5tion & sett+ (f ! beauty ( ! p]son1 b satisfies ! desire1 n less deep-root$ 9 humanity1 ( e/abli%+ a di/9ctive m>k ( rank & dignity4 ,9 fact ! we>+ ( c]ta9 k9ds ( ornam5ts has at times be5 fix$ by legislation4 ,among savages1 & races n f> remov$ f b>b>ism1 x may be obs]v$ t ! love ( ornam5t is *iefly *>act]i/ic ( m54 ,z civilisation advances x is display$ m & m by wom5 alone4 ,yet ev5 a c5tury ago1 among ! mo/ civilis$ nations ( ,europe1 ! beaux & mac>onis adorn$ !mselves ) jewell]y ( all k9ds4 ,to-day1 h[ev]1 x is conf9$1 & ) great] propriety1 almo/ entirely to wom54 ,desir\s always ( pleas+1 ! g5tle sex has ev] s\ght to add to its *>ms by adorn+ itself ) jewels4 ,two me?ods ( deal+ ) ! hi/ory ( ! pres5t subject pres5t !mselves4 ,"o me?od consi/s 9 tak+ individual classes ( jewell]y1 trac+ _! complete developm5t1 & foll[+ ! *anges !y und]go dur+ ! v>i\s p]iods ( civilisation4 ,by ! o!r--! hi/orical me?od--all types ( jewell]y 9 exi/5ce at a p>ticul> "t are exam9$ side by side )9 ! hi/orical p]iod to :i* !y belong4 ,! g5]al *anges t take place at "o epo* f9d an e*o 9 e piece ( jewell]y t belongs to t epo*4 ,! diff]5t classes ( jewell]y dur+ e p]iod all be> a di/9ct relation%ip ( /yle4 ,= in/ance1 ! *anges :i* take place 9 ! aspect ( ! necklace at a p>ticul> epo* w be f\nd to occur at ! same "t 9 t ( ! bracelet & girdle4 ,b !re may exi/ ! wide/ div]g5ce 9 /yle & idea betwe5 a p>ticul> piece ( jewell]y & its successor ( a subsequ5t p]iod4 ,= ^! reasons an hi/orical & *ronological mode ( treatm5t has be5 adopt$1 :i* w all[ m complet5ess ( obs]vation1 & full] & m sci5tific inve/igation ( /yle & craftman%ip4 ,c]ta9 difficulties are nev]!less enc\nt]$1 because p]iods & fa%ions naturally ov]lap4 ,?is is p>ticul>ly ! case 9 times :5 communication 0 n easy2 s9ce "s p w\ld cl+ to an old =m ( jewell]y1 :ile o!rs1 m travell$ or m fa%ionably m9d$1 w\ld pref] a new4 ,9 proce$+ t[>ds a sy/ematic classification ( p]sonal ornam5ts x may be advisable1 in/ead ( deal+ ) ! sep>ate ornam5ts ( ea* p]iod accord+ to _! relative importance or prom95ce1 to foll[ a simpl] & m natural plan4 ,?us1 ! ornam5ts dealt ) 9 ea* succe$+ epo* w 9 e case be ^? worn3 7#a7 on ! head--diadems1 ti>as1 aigrettes1 hair-p9s1 jewels = ! hat & cap1 & e>r+s2 7#b7 on ! neck--necklaces & neck-*a9s hung ) num]\s v>ieties ( p5dants2 7#c7 on ! brea/--broo*es1 clasps1 buttons2 7#d7 on ! limbs--armlets1 anklets1 bracelets1 r+s2 & 7#e7 on ! body & wai/--girdles & _! v>i\s atta*m5ts1 *atela9es1 & miscellane\s p5d5t ornam5ts1 su* z pom&]s1 sc5t-cases1 ros>ies1 etc4 ,a few prelim9>y words may be said respect+ ! evolution ( "s ( ! v>i\s ornam5ts employ$ on ! diff]5t p>ts ( ! body4 ,! cu/om ( decorat+ ! head ) jewell$ ornam5ts 0 probably sugge/$ by ! natural idea ( encircl+ x ) fl[]s 9 tok5 ( joy or triumph4 ,! use ( diadems 0 9 e>ly times g5]ally res]v$ = ^? ( noble bir?4 ,f ! fillets employ$ = b9d+ ! hair1 develop$ circlets1 :i* ) ! addition ( preci\s /ones assum$ ! dignity ( cr[ns4 ,! use ( e>r+s z p]sonal ornam5ts seems to h orig9at$ 9 ! ,ea/1 :]e !y h always be5 9 fav\r4 ,e>r+s =m$ an important article ( jewell]y dur+ ! classical ages1 b !y 7 n commonly worn aga9 9 ,europe until ! sev5te5? & eighte5? c5turies4 ,at ! pres5t mom5t fa%ion does n decree _! g5]al use4 ,! necklace--"o ( ! mo/ primitive ( ornam5ts--is worn ei!r close r\nd ! ?roat1 loosely r\nd ! neck1 or l[ d[n ^u ! brea/4 ,occasionally1 z among savage peoples1 x takes ! =m ( a r+2 b z a rule x is =m$ ei!r ( a simple cord1 or a *a9 =m$ by ! appropriate l9k+ toge!r ( r+s1 p]=at$ discs1 or pi]c$ balls4 ,arti/ic effects are produc$ by a regul> alt]nation ( ^! details1 z well z by ! tap]+ ( ! *a9 f ! middle t[>ds ! ends4 ,neck-*a9s ) symbolic elem5ts are ^? worn z ord]s & z signs ( dignity4 ,! necklace may be fur!r ornam5t$ by a r[ ( p5dants1 or m g5]ally a s+le p5d5t ornam5t4 ,! p5dant ?us employ$ has become1 p]haps1 ! mo/ beautiful ( all articles ( adornm5t4 ,x occupies a conspicu\s position ^u ! p]son1 & possibly = ?is reason has evok$ ! greate/ skill & ref9em5t ( ! jewell]'s art4 ,its v>ieties are manifold--f ! primitive *>m1 & ! symbolic ornam5ts ( ! ,middle ,ages1 to ! elaborate p5dant1 = ! mo/ "p purely decorative1 dat+ f ,r5aissance times4 ,next comes ! important gr\p ( ornam5ts worn *iefly on ! brea/1 compris+ broo*es1 clasps & p9s1 employ$ = fa/5+ ! dress4 ,all h _! orig9 9 ! simple p94 ,to ?is class belongs ! hair-p91 ( :i* ! mo/ h&some & v>i$ examples are to be f\nd 9 anci5t "w4 ,unlike mod]n hair-p9s :i* are provid$ ) two po9ts1 !y h a s+le cyl9drical or slightly conical /em1 po9t$ at "o end1 & t]m9at$ at ! o!r ) a knob or "s o!r f9ial4 ,a simple p9 = ! dress 0 uncommon 9 antiquity1 & its g5]al use = ?is purpose belongs to comp>atively rec5t times4 ,its place 0 always tak51 especially 9 e>ly p]iods1 by a broo*--an outcome ( ! p9--:i* suppli$ ! want ( buttons4 ,! broo*1 an ornam5t ( v consid]able importance1 c be trac$ d[n f ! e>lie/ civilisation1 & is a valuable crit]ion 9 que/ions ( e?nic movem5ts4 ,! /ory1 h[ev]1 ( ! gr[? ( ea* ( ! diff]5t classes into :i* primitive broo*es may be divid$1 ! p]iods at :i* ^! ornam5ts made _! appe>ance1 & ! d$uctions ( e?nographical int]e/ t may be drawn !refrom1 mu/ ( necessity lie outside ! scope ( ! pres5t "w4 ,illu/ration3 ,safety p94 ,all broo*es1 z has be5 said1 orig9at$ f ! simple p91 :i* itself 0 prec$$ by & probably d]iv$ f a ?orn4 ,at an e>ly p]iod ?is p91 aft] hav+ be5 pass$ ?r\gh ! g>m5t1 0 = great] security b5t up1 & its po9t caught beh9d ! head4 ,lat]1 9 ord] t ! po9t might be held m securely 9 ! cat*1 ! p9 0 giv5 a complete turn1 :i* produc$ ! spr+1 z se5 9 ! common =m ( our mod]n safety-p94 ,?us con/ruct$1 ! broo*1 ?\gh 9 "o piece1 may be said to consi/ ( f\r p>ts2 7a7 ! acus or p92 7b7 ! spr+ or h+e2 7c7 ! cat* or lock+ app>atus1 :i* =ms ! %ea? ( ! p92 & 7d7 ! b[ or back--! framework unit+ ! spr+ ) ! cat*4 ,illu/ration3 ,romano-,briti% broo* or fibula ) bilat]al spr+4 ,f ?is primitive safety-p91 :i* is ! f\ndation =m ( all broo*es ) a cat*1 develop$ ! num]\s v>ieties & patt]ns ( ! broo* or fibula ( succe$+ ages4 ,among/ ^! is ! ,roman fibula1 :i* in/ead ( be+ made ( "o piece ( metal1 is ( two pieces--! b[ & ! acus4 ,! p9 "h works on a h+e--! result ( gradually ext5d+ ! coils ( ! spr+ symmetrically on ea* side ( ! p9 into :at is kn[n z ! d\ble-twi/$ or bilat]al spr+1 & plac+ a b> ?r\gh ! coils ?us made4 ,f ! broo* h+$ 9 ?is mann] orig9at$ ! ,roman prov9cial fibula ( ! ,t-%ap$ type common 9 ,france & ,brita91 & lat] ! cruci=m broo* ( ,anglo-,saxon times4 ,! broo* ) ) a h+e 0 exclusively us$ until ! revival ( ! safety p9 ) a spr+1 pat5t$ z a new inv5tion 9 ! n9ete5? c5tury4 ,illu/ration3 ,broo* =m$ ( d\ble spiral discs ( conc5tric wire 7,spectacle fibula47 ,9 addition to ! above broo*es or fibul 7gr\p #a7--;all developm5ts ( ! safety-p9 type--!re are ?ree o!r l>ge gr\ps ( broo*es3 7#b7 ! circul> disc type2 7#c7 ! p5annul> or ,celtic broo*2 & 7#d7 ! r+-broo*4 ,! fir/ ( ^!--! type g5]ally worn at ! pres5t day--may be describ$ z a flat disc fitt$ ) a h+$ p94 ,9 cemet]ies belong+ to ! ,e>ly ,iron ,age 9 ,s\!rn ,europe circul> plates h be5 f\nd fitt$ ) a p94 ,^! plates appe>#a to h be5 develop$ by ! conv]sion ( a primitive disc ( spiral conc5tric wire into a circul> plate4 ,f ! broo* ( ?is type sprang ! circul> broo* ( ! ,roman p]iod1 (t5 inlaid ) enamel1 z well z ! spl5did circul> broo*es ( ,anglo-,saxon times1 & all o!r disc-%ap$ broo*es4 ,9 all e>ly p]iods1 & ev5 9 ,roman times1 ! b[ or safety-p9 type ( broo* 0 common] ?an ! disc & also m practical1 z x (f]$ room = ! ga!r$ folds ( ! g>m5t4 ,9 mod]n times ! disc-%ap$ broo* fitt$ ) a h+$ or sometimes ) a spr+ p9 has be5 pr9cipally us$4 #a ,ridgeway 7,w471 ,e>ly ,age ( ,greece1 p4 #dcg4 ,illu/ration3 ,celtic broo*4 ,illu/ration3 ,r+-broo* 7,tomb ( ,que5 ,b]5g>ia ( ,nav>re1 wife ( ,ri*>d ,coeur de ,lion1 at ,le ,mans74 ,! two rema9+ gr\ps ( broo*es--7#c7 ! ,celtic broo* & 7#d7 ! r+-broo*--are bo? developm5ts ( ! simple p9 9 comb9ation ) a r+--9 ! =m] case p5annul> & 9 ! latt] annul>4 ,! ,celtic broo*1 ) p5annul> r+ & long p91 is app>5tly ! result ( fitt+ a p9 to a prehi/oric =m ( fa/5+ = ! dress--a p5annul> r+ t]m9at+ ) knobs1 kn[n z a mammill>y fibula4 ,! r+-broo* ) complete r+1 & p9 ( ! same l5g? z ! diamet] ( ! r+1 :i* 0 popul> 9 m$ival times1 is ! outcome ( fitt+ a complete r+ ( wire to a p9 to prev5t ! head ( ! p9 f slipp+ ?r\gh ! mat]ial--:i* r+ 9 c\rse ( "t became ! m important memb]4 ,x is improbable t ! ,celtic broo* orig9at$ 9 ! same way1 f ! union ( a long p9 ) a small r+4 ,nor is x likely t ^! two =ms ( broo*es 7 evolv$ ! "o out ( ! o!r by ! %ort5+ or l5g!n+ ( ! p9s4 ,z a matt] ( fact ! two appe> to h aris5 indep5d5tly side by side4 ,bracelets & armlets may be consid]$ toge!r1 = ?\gh ! bracelet is prop]ly only a decoration = ! wri/1 ! t]m has become descriptive ( any ornam5t worn ^u ! arm4 ,! bracelet1 toge!r ) ! necklace1 7 ! e>lie/ ornam5ts us$ = ! decoration ( mank9d4 ,among/ savage tribes bo? 7 worn 9 "s =m or ano!r--! necklace z an ornam5t pure & simple1 b ! bracelet s]v+ frequ5tly a practical purpose1 sometimes z a %ield = ! arm 9 combat1 sometimes cov]$ ) spikes1 & us$ = (f5sive purposes4 ,:ile us$ univ]sally by wom5 9 ! =m ( a b&1 clos$1 or op5 on "o side1 or else 9 ! %ape ( a spiral1 or fa%ion$ l a *a91 ! bracelet has be5 worn f ! e>lie/ times 9 ! ,ea/ by m5 also1 especially by pr9ces z "o ( ! insignia ( royalty1 & by di/+ui%$ p]sons 9 g5]al4 ,( all jewels ! simple/ & at ! same "t p]haps ! mo/ int]e/+ & important is ! f+] r+4 ,x is univ]sally employ$ z an article ( p]sonal ornam5t1 & has be5 worn by bo? sexes at almo/ all times1 & 9 ne>ly e c\ntry4 ,sometimes x is an object ( use z ! signet r+1 or a tok5 ( dignity z ! bi%op's r+4 ,sometimes x has a symbolical significance1 z ! w$d+-r+4 ,sometimes x is purely ornam5tal4 ,mo/ f+] r+s may be said to be =m$ ( two p>ts--! circul> portion :i* surr\nds ! f+]1 kn[n z ! hoop or %ank1 & ! enl>g$ or upp] portion :i* is call$ ! bezel4 ,?is latt] t]m1 appli$ to ! upp] side ( ! r+1 :i* is broad5$ to receive an ornam5t ( "s k9d1 g5]ally a /one1 seems to h orig9ally designat$ ! basil or project+ flange1 t reta9$ ! /one 9 its sett+4 ,! t]m collet1 also us$ = ! :ole top includ+ ! /one or seal1 is simil>ly d]iv$ f ! flange or collet 9 :i* ! /one is set4 ,f its box-l %ape ?is "p ( ! r+ is also call$ ! *aton4 ,illu/ration3 ,buckle1 ) buckle-plate & tag4 ,g]man1 ab\t #adij4 7,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum47 ,! belt or girdle 0 worn r\nd ! wai/ by m5 z a means ( susp5d+ weapons1 by wom5 sometimes m]ely z an ornam5t1 & g5]ally by bo? sexes = ! practical purpose ( conf9+ ! clo?+4 ,x is commonly =m$ ( a b& ( lea!r or textile mat]ial4 ,! "p z a rule :i* receives p>ticul> att5tion is ! fa/5+4 ,?is is ei!r 9 ! =m ( a clasp1 or m (t5 a buckle4 ,! clasp consi/s ( two p>ts1 g5]ally symmetrical1 "o ( :i* c be hook$ into ! o!r4 ,! buckle1 ano!r comb9ation ( a r+ ) a p91 is simil> to ! m$ival r+-broo*1 b diff]s f x 9 t :ile ! p9 ( ! broo* pi]ces ! mat]ial twice1 t ( ! buckle pi]ces x only once4 ,x may be describ$ z a rectangul> or curv$ rim hav+ "o or m h+$ p9s or spikes atta*$ on "o side ( x or on a b> across its c5tre1 & long en\gh to re/ ^u ! opposite side4 ,! buckle is made fa/ to "o end ( ! girdle2 :il/ ! o!r end1 drawn ?r\gh on ! pr9ciple ( a slip knot1 is kept fa/ by pu%+ ! po9t ( ! p9 or tongue ?r\gh a hole made 9 ! mat]ial ( ! girdle4 ,! girdle is atta*$ by means ( sew+ a fold ( x r\nd ! b> or r\nd "o side ( ! rim ( ! buckle4 ,z a great /ra9 0 put ^u ! d\bl+ ( ! lea!r or /uff1 ?is soone/ gave way4 ,consequ5tly a plate ( metal 0 pass$ r\nd ! b> or edge ( ! buckle1 & ! two portions ( x receiv$ ! end ( ! /rap betwe5 !m4 ,! :ole 0 !n made fa/ ) rivets4 ,! plate is kn[n z ! buckle-plate4 ,"o end ( ! girdle be+ ?us furni%$1 ! o!r 0 frequ5tly made to t]m9ate ) a metal *ape to enable x to pass easily ?r\gh ! r+ ( ! buckle 9 ! process ( buckl+ & unbuckl+4 ,?is *ape is kn[n also z ! mordant4 ,! *ief po9t ( ! girdle to be decorat$ 0 ! buckle-plate1 :i* 0 (t5 9 "o piece ) ! buckle1 or h+$ to x4 ,! mordant or tag 0 commonly decorat$ too1 :ile ornam5ts ( metal ( simil> design1 sometimes jewell$1 7 appli$ at regul> int]vals to ! /rap or b& ( ! girdle4 ,9 lat] ye>s ! girdle (t5 took ! =m ( a *a91 on :i*1 z 9 ! case ( *a9s = ! neck & wri/s1 arti/ic effects 7 produc$ by a regul> sequ5ce ( l9ks4 ,fa/5$ by a clasp1 x 0 worn by wom5 *iefly z an ornam5t1 or to c>ry small objects = p]sonal use4 ,= ! latt] purpose x 0 subsequ5tly supplant$ by ! *atela9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,bronze fibula 7,irel&74 ,,jewell]y ,,e>ly ,,jewell]y ,,*apt] ,i ,,egyptian ,,& ,,pho5ician ,,jewell]y ,mo/ ( ! =ms met ) among ! jewell]y ( ! civilis$ nations ( lat] times are f\nd repres5t$ 9 ! ornam5ts ( ! ,egyptians4 ,x is =tunate t important specim5s ( all descriptions ( ^! h come d[n to our days4 ,?is we owe to ! elaborate c>e :i* ! ,egyptians be/[$ on ! pres]vation ( ! dead1 & to ! /rict obs]vance ( fun]al rites1 :i* induc$ !m to dress & ornam5t _! mummies ) a view to future com=t bo? 9 ! grave & 9 ! aft] life4 ,! ornam5ts1 h[ev]1 buri$ ) ! dead 7 frequ5tly m]e models ( :at 7 worn 9 life1 & ! pa9s tak5 9 mak+ ^! dep5d$ on ! sums exp5d$ by ! fri5ds ( ! deceas$ aft] 8 dea?4 ,:ile ^? :o 7 possess$ ( means & 7 scrupul\s 9 _! la/ duties to ! dead pur*as$ ornam5ts ( ! be/ workman%ip & ( ! mo/ co/ly mat]ials1 o!rs :o 7 unable or unwill+ to incur exp5se 9 provid+ su* objects 7 cont5t$ ) glass pa/es in/ead ( preci\s /ones1 & glaz$ pott]y in/ead ( gold4 ,) ! exception ( _m f+] r+s worn by bo? sexes & "s female ornam5ts1 ! great] numb] ( jewels discov]$ 9 ! tombs are ( inf]ior quality & value to ^? :i* ! deceas$ _h worn :5 liv+4 ,a peculi>ity ( ! jewell]y ( ! ,egyptians is t1 9 addition to its actual purpose1 x g5]ally possesses some?+ ( ! allegorical & emblematic signification1 = :i* _! my?ology (f]$ pl5tiful mat]ial4 ,among ! emblems or figures ( objects :i* symbolise or sugge/ ! qualities ( deities1 ! mo/ fav\rite is ! sc>ab or beetle1 type ( ! god ,khep]a4 ,! use ( sc>abs 9 burial _h ref]5ce to ! resurrection ( ! dead & immortality4 ,o!r important emblems include ! uza or ut*at1 ! symbolic eye--! eye ( ,horus1 ! hawk-god2 ! cobra snake1 ! uru--emblem ( div9e & royal sov]eignty2 ! tet1 ! f\r-b>r$ emblem ( /ability1 endurance1 & la/+ness2 ! human-head$ hawk1 emblem ( ! s\l4 ,^! & _m o!rs1 z well z figures f ! animal _w1 7 worn z ornam5ts1 & especially z amulets to br+ good =tune or to w>d (f evil4 ,col\r plays an important "p 9 ,egyptian jewell]y4 ,?is love ( col\r 0 display$ 9 ! use ( glaz$ w>e1 incorrectly t]m$ porcela91 b prop]ly a fai5ce1 mu* employ$ = all articles1 z necklaces1 sc>abs1 & r+s1 & p>ticul>ly = ! v>i\s k9ds ( amulets :i* 7 l>gely worn z p]sonal ornam5ts4 ,! mo/ usual & beautiful 0 ! cupre\s glaze ( a blue or apple-gre5 col\r2 yell[1 violet1 r$1 & :ite are also met )1 b less frequ5tly1 & *iefly at lat] p]iods4 ,b col\r %[$ itself above all 9 ! surface decoration ( jewell]y1 produc$ by ! application ( col\r$ /ones & ! imitation ( ^! ins]t$ 9 cells ( gold prep>$ = !m4 ,! *ief mat]ials employ$ = ! purpose 7 lapis-lazuli1 turquoise1 root ( em]ald or gre5 felsp>1 jasp]1 & obsidian1 besides v>i\s opaque glasses imitat+ !m4 ,) ! exception ( enamel ^u metal1 :i* is only f\nd 9 ,egypt 9 q late p]iods1 ! ,egyptians appe> to h be5 acqua9t$ ) all ! processes ( jewell]y n[ 9 use4 ,*as+ & engrav+ !y pref]r$ to all o!r modes ( ornam5t+ metal-"w1 z ^! me?ods enhanc$ ! beauty ( _! jewels :ile reta9+ a level surface4 ,!y 7 also highly skill$ 9 sold]+ & 9 ! art ( rep\ss "w4 ,! great malleability ( gold enabl$ !m to ov]lay ornam5ts ( silv]1 bronze1 & ev5 /one ) ?9 leaves ( ?is metal2 :ile ornam5ts 7 also compos$ entirely ( plates ( gold ( extreme ?9ness4 ,9 articles :]e frequ5t repetition occurs1 = in/ance1 9 necklaces1 patt]ns 7 produc$ by pressure 9 m\lds1 & !n sold]$ toge!r4 ,examples ( jewell]y furni%$ by ! ,egyptian tombs are to be f\nd 9 ! museums ( almo/ e c\ntry4 ,und\bt$ly ! f9e/ collection is 9 ! ,vic]egal ,museum ( ,egyptian ,antiquities at ,cairo4 ,x conta9s jewels ( ! e>lie/ dyna/ies1 v few ( :i* are to be f\nd outside x4 ,dat+ f ! great ,!ban dyna/ies1 ! eighte5? & n9ete5?1 :5 ! jewell]'s art rea*$ its highe/ level1 are _m beautiful examples1 notably ! fam\s set ( jewels discov]$ 9 ! tomb ( ,que5 4,aah-h4etep 7#afjj ,b4,c474 ,f9e collections are also pres]v$ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 9 ,b]l91 ,muni*1 & 9 ! ,l\vre4 ,foll[+ ! sequ5ce ( ornam5ts f ! head d[nw>ds1 m5tion mu/ fir/ be made ( diadems or frontlets4 ,^! 7 compos$ ei!r ( r+ ornam5ts1 set ) preci\s /ones & /rung 9 a v>iety ( ways1 :i* hung d[n ov] ! temples1 or ( gold b&s ornam5t$ 9 cloisonn inlay ) ! fav\rite allegorical repres5tations ( animals 9 v>i\s arrangem5ts4 ,9 ! case ( royal p]sonages !re is a uru 9 front4 ,among all ,ori5tal nations ( antiquity ( :om we h any accurate k1 e>r+s h always be5 9 g5]al use by bo? sexes2 b z f> z c be judg$ f monum5ts1 ^! ornam5ts appe> 9 ,egypt to h be5 worn by wom5 alone4 ,m4 ,font5ay#b claims t ! holes visible 9 ! e>s ( /atues ( ,rameses ,,ii--su* z ! colossal head 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 ca/ f ! orig9al 9 ! temple ( ,ipsamb\l--h be5 pi]c$ = e>r+s4 ,b ev5 s1 e>r+s _h probably only a sac]dotal or sacr$ significance1 & 7 worn by ! sov]eign only1 & on v exceptional occasions4 ,e>r+s1 h[ev]1 f\nd v little fav\r ev5 among wom5 until :at 9 ,egyptian *ronology are comp>atively late times4 ,^? t d occur are ( ! simple/ k9d1 =m$ ( a r+-%ap$ hook = pi]c+ ! lobe ( ! e>1 hung ) a blossom-%ap$ or symbolical p5dant4 ,l>ge p5annul> r+s ( v>i\s mat]ials 7 occasionally employ$ z e> ornam5ts2 ! op5+ 9 !m enabl+ !m to be fitt$ on to ! upp] "p ( ! e>4 #b ,font5ay 7,e471 ,les bij\x anci5s et mod]nes1 p4 #ih4 ,necklaces appe> to h play$ a v prom95t "p 9 ,egyptian ornam5ts4 ,no tomb seems to be )\t !m1 & ! wall pa9t+s also prove _! v g5]al use4 ,mo/ frequ5t is a *a9 consi/+ ( v>i\s mat]ials /rung toge!r1 g5]ally ) a l>ge drop or figure 9 ! c5tre1 & p5d5t motives introduc$ at def9ite int]vals4 ,! latt]1 ( e imag9able v>iety ( design1 occur 9 rhy?mical alt]nation1 & are occasionally introduc$ betwe5 two r[s ( beads4 ,! peculi>ly sev]e & regul> decorations ( ! ,egyptians--m p>ticul>ly ! v>i\s *>m+ adaptations ( op5 & clos$ lotus fl[]s--are "h f\nd 9 ! f9e/ =ms ( application4 ,especially is ?is %[n on ! ornam5t call$ ! usekh coll>1 :i* figures on e mummy & mummy case4 ,=m$ ( r[s1 g5]ally ( cyl9d]-%ap$ beads ) p5dants1 /rung toge!r & ga!r$ up at ei!r end to ! head ( a lion or hawk or to a lotus fl[]1 ?is coll> or brea/ decoration cov]$ ! %\ld]s & *e/1 & is f\nd 9 t position on ! mummy1 atta*$ frequ5tly to ! w9d+-%eet4 ,"o ( ! mo/ important ,egyptian ornam5ts is ! pectoral1 :i*1 z its "n implies1 0 worn on ! brea/1 susp5d$ by a ribbon or *a94 ,9 all probability x =m$ a portion ( ! ev]yday co/ume ( m5 & wom51 b its symbolism po9ts to its *ief use z a mortu>y ornam5t1 & x is f\nd on almo/ e mummy4 ,pectorals are usually 9 ! =m ( a pylon or %r9e1 9 ! middle ( :i* is (t5 a sc>ab1 ! emblem ( trans=mation & immortality1 ador$ by ! goddesses ,isis or ,neph?ys4 ,^! ornam5ts 7 made ( metal--r>ely gold1 m (t5 gild$ bronze--& v frequ5tly ( alaba/]1 /eatite1 & basalt sometimes glaz$1 & ( e>!nw>e always glaz$4 ,9 ! ,cairo ,museum is a pectoral ( pure gold inlaid ) c>nelian1 lapis-lazuli & turquoises1 :i* 0 f\nd at ,da%r 9 #ahid 9 ! tomb ( ! ,pr9cess ,set-,ha?or 7twelf? dyna/y74 ,discov]$ at ! same "t 0 a pectoral hav+ at ! top a vulture ) outspread w+s & bel[ ! "n ( ,us]ts5 ,,iii support$ on ei!r side by hawk-head$ sph9xes4 ,! op5-"w pectoral ( ,que5 4,aah-h4etep1 ( solid gold1 also at ,cairo1 is "o ( ! mo/ beautiful ( all specim5s ( ,egyptian jewell]y4 ,ano!r gold5 pectoral1 f\nd 9 ! tomb ( ,kha-em-uas1 son ( ,rameses ,,ii1 is 9 ! ,l\vre4 ,some:at simil> to ! pectorals are jewels 9 ! %ape ( conv5tional hawks4 ,z emblems ( ! s\l1 !y are f\nd plac$ ^u ! brea/ ( ! mummy4 ,! f9e/ are made ( pure gold decorat$ ) cloisons %ap$ accord+ to ! natural =mations ( ! body & w+s ( ! bird4 ,! talons grasp a pair ( signet r+s4 ,alli$ to ^! are ornam5ts kn[n z gides1 :i* 7 occasionally also worn on ! brea/4 ,a v beautiful specim51 ! gis ( ,ba/1 is 9 ! ,l\vre4 ,sculptures & pa9t+s repres5t bracelets by b&s ( r$ or blue col\r on ! arms1 & %[ t ! ,egyptians wore f\r--"o on ! wri/ & "o above ! elb[ ( ea* arm4 ,"s ( ! e>lie/ are compos$ ( glass & gold beads ?read$ s z to =m v>i\s patt]ns4 ,! m solid =ms ( bracelet are ornam5t$ ) inlaid "w4 ,r+s = ! arms1 z well z ! ankles1 are g5]ally ( pla9 gold--bo? solid & holl[--sometimes bord]$ ) plait$ *a9-"w4 ,bracelets ( ?ick & occasionally twi/$ wire1 f\nd z e>ly z ! twelf? dyna/y1 usually h ! ends beat5 out into a ?9 wire1 :i* is lapp$ r\nd ! opposite %ank s z to slip easily ov] ! wri/4 ,bracelets 9 ! =m ( s]p5ts belong to ! ,ptolemaic & e>ly ,roman p]iods4 ,! commone/ ornam5t is ! f+] r+4 ,! r+ 0 n only an ornam5t1 b an actual necessity1 s9ce x s]v$ z a signet1 ! own]'s emblem or badge be+ engrav$ ei!r on ! metal ( ! r+ or on a sc>ab or o!r /one set 9 x4 ,!re are ?ree ma9 types ( ,egyptian r+s4 ,! fir/ & simple/1 compos$ ( a seal /one ) a r+ atta*$1 is =m$ ( a hoop ) flatt5$ ends1 ea* pi]c$1 :i* grasp ! sc>ab4 ,?r\gh a hole made 9 ! sc>ab 0 run a wire1 ! ends ( :i*1 pass+ ?r\gh ! extremities ( ! r+1 7 w\nd sev]al times r\nd x4 ,! revolv+ sc>ab exhibit$ its back :5 worn on ! f+] & ! engrav$ side :5 necess>y to use x z a seal4 ,! g5]al outl9e ( ! r+ is l a /irrup1 a =m :i* ( c\rse v>i$ 9 accordance ) ! size ( ! sc>ab4 ,9 a second type ( r+ ! swivel disappe>s1 & ! r+ is 9 "o piece4 ,its outl9e reta9s ! /irrup =m1 b ! inside ( ! hoop is r\nd & fits closely to ! f+]4 ,( ?is type are r+s1 dat+ f ! eighte5? to ! tw5tie? dyna/y1 =m$ ( two hoops unit$ at ! top & hav+ ! names & titles ( ! own] deeply sunk 9 hi]oglyphics on oblong gold bezels4 ,a ?ird type1 almo/ circul> 9 outl9e1 is ( simil> =m to ! signet-r+ ( ! pres5t day4 ,9 addition to ^? :i* 7 actually worn 9 life1 are models ( real r+s employ$ solely = fun]al purposes to ornam5t ! f+]s ( ! wood5 model h&s :i* 7 plac$ on ! c(f9s ( mummies ( ! eighte5? & n9ete5? dyna/ies4 ,! model r+s are made ( fai5ce ) f9e glazes ( blue1 gre51 & o!r col\rs1 ) v>i\s devices1 incuse or 9 intaglio1 ^u ! bezels1 :i* are g5]ally ( oval =m4 ,,pho5ician ,,jewell]y ,z ! inv5tors ( me?ods & ! creators ( models :i* ex]cis$ a widespread influ5ce 9 ! developm5t ( subsequ5t types ( ornam5ts1 ,egypt1 & 9 a less] degree ,assyria also1 occupies a position ( consid]able importance4 ,! *ief ag5ts 9 ! spread+ ( ^! me?ods & models 7 ! ,pho5icians1 ! fir/ & =emo/ navigators ( ! anci5t _w1 :o import$ jewels among o!r articles ( trade1 into ,italy & into ! isl&s & ma9l& ( ,greece4 ,n by nature creative1 b always copy+ ^? nations ) :om 9 _! w&]+s !y came 9 t\*1 ! ,pho5icians produc$ a native jewell]y ( composite type 9 :i* !re is a p]petual mixture ( ,egyptian & ,assyrian =ms4 ,z !y _h imitat$ ,egypt & ,assyria1 s !y began to imitate ,greece z soon z !y came into contact ) h]4 ,! ,greeks 9 return made great use at fir/ ( ?is composite /yle1 b subsequ5tly %ook (f its influ5ce & incorporat$ x only aft] _m modifications into _! own develop$ art4 ,! amphora--a =m ( ornam5t 9 goldsmi?'s "w :i* c be trac$ to ,assyria--is "o among _m motives borr[$ by ! ,pho5icians1 & transmitt$ by !m to ,greece4 ,f ,egypt ! ,pho5icians acquir$ a high degree ( te*nical skill & ma/]y ov] mat]ials4 ,?is f9i% 0 transmitt$ to ! f9e/ ,greek jewell]y1 & to ! p]sonal ornam5ts ( ! e>ly ,etruscans4 ,! art ( sold]+ gold to gold1 :i* 0 kn[n 9 ,egypt at an e>ly p]iod1 0 greatly p]fect$ & develop$ by ! ,pho5icians2 & x is g5]ally believ$ t !y 7 ! inv5tors ( ! process ( decorat+ jewell]y by granulation1 t is by affix+ to ! surface m9ute globules ( gold--a process :i* atta9$ its p]fection 9 ! skilful h&s ( ! ,etruscan goldsmi?s4 ,! jewell]y ( ! ,pho5icians mu/ be s\ght = f "o end ( ! ,m$it]ranean to ! o!r1 r ?an 9 ,pho5icia itself4 ,x occurs *iefly 9 _! settlem5ts on ! %ores & isl&s ( ! ,ea/]n ,m$it]ranean1 at ,s>d9ia1 ,crete1 & ,rhodes1 & on ! s\!rn coa/s ( ,asia ,m9or1 b ! be/ & mo/ num]\s specim5s h be5 f\nd 9 ,cyprus4 ,9 addition to ! actual ornam5ts1 special value atta*es also to ,pho5ician sculptures1 pr9cipally bu/s1 bo? f ,pho5icia itself & f its colonies1 ow+ to ! c>e ) :i* p]sonal ornam5ts & details ( dress are repres5t$4 ,sev]al /rik+ examples ( ^! are pres]v$ 9 ! gall]ies set ap>t = ,cyprian & ,pho5ician antiquities 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,! mo/ fam\s ( simil> works1 :i* include ! sculptures f ! ,c]ro de los ,santos1 ne> ,yecla 9 ! prov9ce ( ,albacete 9 ,spa91 n[ 9 ! museum at ,madrid1 is ! rem>kable /one bu/ ( a woman 9 ! ,l\vre1 kn[n z ! ,lady ( ,el*1 f a t[n ( t "n 9 ! prov9ce ( ,alicante1 :]e x 0 discov]$ 9 #ahig 7,pl4 ,,ii1 #i74 ,! maje/ic "* ( ?is figure1 its sumptu\s coiffure ) clu/]s ( tassels susp5d$ by t5 *a9s1 ! :eel-l discs cov] ! e>s1 ! triple r[ ( necklaces ) _! urn-%ap$ p5dants--all unite to produce an effect unequall$ by any kn[n /atue ( antiquity4 ,especially noticeable among ^! ornam5ts is ! diadem :i* encircles ! =ehead & hangs d[n f ea* side 9 long p5dants ^u ! %\ld]s4 ,) ?is may be comp>$ ! *a9s hung at ! ends ( ! gold5 fillet at ,b]l91 discov]$ by ,s*liemann at ! pre-,myc5an city ( ,hiss>lik 9 ! ,troad1 ! ornate tassell$ app5dages at ,/4 ,pet]sburg1 f\nd ) ! fam\s ,greek diadems 9 ! tombs ( ! ,crimea1 & ! elaborate head ornam5ts ) p5d5t ends worn by ,alg]ian wom5 at ! pres5t day4 ,! ,pho5icians1 z se5 also by _! sculptures1 7 addict$ to ! b>b>ic practice ( pi]c+ ! upp] p>ts ( ! e>s1 z well z ! lobes1 & atta*+ to !m r+s be>+ drop-%ap$ p5dants4 ,r+s 7 also atta*$ to ! hair on ea* side ( ! face4 ,!y consi/ ( a d\ble twi/ :i* c\ld be run ?r\gh a curl ( ! hair1 & are ornam5t$ at "o end ) a lion's or gryphon's head4 ,( ord9>y e>r+s worn by ! ,pho5icians ! simple/ is a pla9 r+4 ,9 ! majority ( cases ! simple r+ 0 conv]t$ into a hook & s]v$ to susp5d v>i\s ornam5ts1 ( :i* baskets or bu%els ) gra9 9 !m af=d$ fav\rite motives4 ,examples ( e>r+s ( ?is k9d1 f ,?>ros 9 ,s>d9ia1 are 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,ii ,,pho5ician ,,jewell]y ,/atues1 l ! ,lady ( ,el*1 %[ t ,pho5ician wom5 wore ?ree or f\r necklaces at ! same "t1 "o above ! o!r2 ^! v>y 9 ! size ( _! elem5ts1 f ! small beads ab\t ! ?roat1 to ! l>ge acorn-%ap$ p5dants :i* hang l[ ^u ! brea/4 ,!y display a /rik+ admixture ( ,greek & ,egyptian motives4 ,gold beads are (t5 int]mix$ ) small c>nelian & onyx bugles1 to :i* hang amphor =m$ alt]nately ( gold or cry/al4 ,! ,pho5icians 7 p>ticul>ly skill$ 9 ! manufacture ( glass3 occasionally ! sole mat]ials ( _! necklaces are beads ( glass4 ,a necklace f ,?>ros 9 ,s>d9ia1 n[ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 is =m$ ( beads ( glass & gold2 ( its ?ree p5dants1 ! c5tre "o is ! head ( a woman ) ,egyptian coiffure1 & ! two o!rs lotus fl[]s4 ,f+] r+s are ( all mat]ials--gold1 silv]1 bronze1 & ev5 glass4 ,!y are usually set ) a sc>ab or sc>aboid1 fix$ or revolv+ on a pivot4 ,silv] is less common ?an gold2 b 9 ! ,briti% ,museum is a r+ ( almo/ pure ,greek workman%ip f ,cyprus :i* is entirely ( silv]1 save = an exquisitely modell$ gold5 fly t re/s on ! bezel4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,greek ,,jewell]y ,be=e deal+ ) ,greek jewell]y ( ! classic p]iod "s ref]5ce mu/ be made to ! primitive & ar*aic ornam5ts t prec$$ x4 ,! p]iod & phase ( ,greek culture to :i* ! primitive ornam5ts belong is kn[n widely z ,myc5an--a title x owes to ! discov]ies made at ,myc51 :]e 9 #ahgf ,s*liemann br\ght to light ! fam\s gold treasure n[ pres]v$ 9 ! ,national ,museum at ,a!ns4 ,a *>act]i/ic motive ( ! decoration ( ^! objects is ! use ( spiral patt]ns almo/ id5tical ) ^? employ$ on ,celtic ornam5ts4 ,besides ^! & o!r primitive exhibitions ( decorative skill1 we f9d repres5tations ( naturali/ic animal =ms1 su* z cuttlefi%1 />fi%1 butt]flies1 & o!r creatures4 ,^! are display$ 9 rep\ss patt]ns work$ 9 l[ relief4 ,among ! mo/ notable objects are a numb] ( gold cr[ns usually 9 ! =m ( elongat$ oval plates ornam5t$ ) f9e "w *iefly 9 ! %ape ( rosettes & spirals4 ,mo/ num]\s are ! gold plates int5d$ to be fa/5$ to ! dress4 ,!y are ornam5t$ ) spirals & radiat+ l9es1 ) ! above-m5tion$ animal =ms1 or ) leaves %[+ ! ve9s cle>ly m>k$ 7,pl4 ,,iii1 #a74 ,specially wor?y ( note also are ! f+] r+s ) ! designs sunk into ! oval surface ( ! bezel4 ,ornam5ts ( ?is same epo*1 l ^? 9 ! ,briti% ,museum f ,ialysos 9 ,rhodes1 & ,enkomi 9 ,cyprus1 h be5 discov]$ ?r\gh\t ! :ole gean di/rict4 ,!y are likewise ma9ly 9 ! =m ( gold plates us$ = sepul*ral purposes1 ornam5t$ ) emboss$ patt]ns impress$ f /one m\lds4 ,"s ( !m are enri*$ ) f9e granulation4 ,?is p>ticul> process1 h[ev]1 :i* ab\nds 9 ,etruscan "w1 is m frequ5t on ,greek ornam5ts ( ! ar*aic epo*1 :i* dates r\ghly f ab\t ! sev5? or eigh? c5tury ,b4,c4 ,! types ( ^!1 g5]ally semi-,ori5tal 9 "*1 %[ ! influ5ce ( ,pho5ician art1 ) its traces ( ,egyptian & ,assyrian feel+4 ,lions & w+$ bulls on "s objects betray ! ,assyrian /yle2 ! treatm5t ( ! human figure displays on o!rs ! influ5ce ( ,egypt4 ,among ! be/ examples ( ?is ,grco-,pho5ician jewell]y are ^? f\nd at ,kameiros 9 ,rhodes1 & n[ 9 ! ,l\vre & ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,betwe5 ^! & ! f\r?-c5tury jewels f ! ,crimea to be describ$ next1 ! only kn[n ,greek jewels are ! quasi-,ori5tal ones f ! tombs ( ,cyprus1 :i* belong to ab\t ! fif? c5tury4 ,! jewell]y ( anci5t ,greece1 :i* requires m detail$ consid]ation1 is t worn f ! close ( ! fif? c5tury onw>ds4 ,! jewell]y ( ! ,greeks at ?is epo* 01 l all _! o!r works ( art1 ( surpass+ excell5ce4 ,gold 0 wr\ght ) a skill :i* %[$ h[ well ! arti/ appreciat$ ! beauty ( its col\r & its di/9ctive qualities ( ductility & malleability4 ,! ,greek craftsman 0 ev] c>eful to keep ! mat]ial 9 /rict subord9ation to ! workman%ip1 & n to all[ its intr9sic wor? s to dom9ate 8 productions z to obscure 8 arti/ic int5tion4 ,! ,greek goldsmi?s excell$ 9 ! processes ( rep\ss1 *as+1 engrav+1 & ( intaglio cutt+ on metal1 & br\ght to great p]fection ! art ( sold]+ small objects on to ?9 surfaces & jo9+ toge!r ! ?9ne/ metal plates4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,iii ,,e>ly ,,greek ,,jewell]y ,granulat$ "w1 9 :i* !y 7 rivall$ by ! ,etruscans alone1 ! ,greeks practis$ ) success1 b pref]r$ filigree ornam5tation1 t is ! use ( f9e ?reads ( gold twi/$ ^u ! surface ) v delicate effect4 ,preci\s /ones 7 v r>ely us$ 9 ! f9e/ "w1 ?\gh on _m ( ! po/-,alex&r9e jewels1 /ones su* z g>nets 7 frequ5tly employ$4 ,col\r 0 obta9$ by a sp>+ use ( enamel4 ,! value ( ,greek jewell]y lies 9 ! use ( gold & ! arti/ic developm5t ( ?is s+le mat]ial4 ,! m9ut5ess ( jewell]y did n lead ! ,greeks to despise x z a field ( lab\r4 ,:atev] designs !y borr[$ f o!rs ! ,greeks made _! own & reproduc$ 9 a =m peculi> to !mselves4 ,9 o!r respects !y w5t /raight to nature1 *oos+ simple motives ( fruit1 fl[]s1 & foliage1 unit$ ) a c>eful imitation ( animal =ms & ( ! human body4 ,! objects we h to consid] fall into two classes1 accord+ z !y are ei!r sub/antial articles = use or ornam5t 9 daily life1 or m]e flimsy imitations ( !m made only to be buri$ ) ! dead4 ,z 9 ! case ( o!r nations ( antiquity1 ! dem&s ( ,greek piety 7 satisfi$ if ! dead 7 adorn$ ) jewels made *eaply ( leaves ( /amp$ or bracteate gold4 ,?is c\rse 0 foll[$ ma9ly = ! purpose ( less5+ exp5se2 b x s]v$ also to obviate ! *ance ( tombs be+ rifl$ by tomb-robb]s or tymbory*oi1 :o practis$ a pr(ession :i* 0 common 9 anci5t times & (f]$ l>ge & c]ta9 pr(its4 ,jewels simply & entirely fun]eal occupy a prom95t position 9 e public & private collection ( ,greek jewell]y4 ,! r>ity ( jewels = actual use may be fur!r expla9$ by ! fact t articles ( t k9d w\ld only be associat$ ) ! grave ( a p]son ( weal? & di/9ction1 & t ! m important graves 7 ! fir/ prey ( robb]s4 ,! almo/ complete abs5ce ( specim5s ( jewell]y f ! ma9l& ( ,greece is due to ^? acts ( pillage :i* cont9ually took place at localities well kn[n z cemet]ies4 ,only 9 tombs conceal$ by _! environm5t1 or lo/ to sight 9 semi-b>b>\s c\ntries1 h suffici5t ornam5ts be5 f\nd = u to =m an e/imate ( ! p]fection :i* ?is bran* ( ! indu/rial arts !n atta9$4 ,! *ief s\rces ( ^! discov]ies h be5 ! ,crimea1 ! ,greek isl&s1 ! we/ coa/ ( ,asia ,m9or1 & ,s\!rn ,italy--kn[n 9 anci5t times z ,magna ,grcia4 ,( ^! di/ricts by f> ! mo/ important 0 t on ! nor!rn %ore ( ! ,black ,sea1 call$ =m]ly ! ,tauric ,*]sonese & n[ ! ,crimea1 :]e 9 close proximity to ! w>like ,scy?ian tribes a ,greek colony _h settl$ z e>ly z ! six? c5tury be=e our era4 ,excavations made also 9 ! adjac5t p59sula ( ,taman h reveal$ num]\s articles ( gold1 all belong+ to ! latt] half ( ! c5tury4 ,! weal? ( gold on ! %ores ( ! ,black ,sea1 :i* is ! basis ( ! e>ly ,greek leg5ds ( ! ,gold5 ,fleece1 _h attract$ m]*ant adv5tur]s at an e>ly date4 ,& ! ,greek goldsmi?s :o settl$ !re =w>d$ _! productions bo? to _! "m-c\ntry & to ! neighb\r+ l&s ( ! b>b>ians4 ,excavations und]tak5 by ! ,russian ,gov]nm5t ne> ,k]t*1 ! anci5t ,pantikapaion1 gave rise to an important discov]y 9 #ahca1 :5 ! op5+ ( ! celebrat$ tumulus ,k\l-,oba reveal$ a magnific5t display ( ,greek jewell]y4 ,^! treasures1 & o!rs :i* ! ent]prise ( ! ,russian ,gov]nm5t has br\ght to light1 are pres]v$ at ,/4 ,pet]sburg 9 ! ,museum ( ! ,h]mitage4 ,italy1 less sy/ematically ravag$ ?an ,greece1 has prov$ exce$+ly ri* 9 f9ds ( antique jewell]y4 ,except = a few scatt]$ fragm5ts f ,greece prop] & ! o!r s\rces m5tion$ above1 public & private cab9ets1 outside ,russia1 are made up almo/ exclusively ( ! results ( excavations 9 ! burial-places ( ,magna ,grcia4 ,9 no ornam5t did ! ,greek jewell] exhibit 8 f]tility ( inv5tion to a great] degree ?an 9 ! v>iety & beauty ( ! =ms giv5 to e>r+s4 ,!y divide naturally into two classes4 ,! fir/1 ! e>li]1 are r+-%ap$1 ( two halves =m$ 9 a m\ld & unit$ toge!r4 ,!y t]m9ate at "o end ) a human head--l t ( a ,mnad 9 a specim5 9 ! ,briti% ,museum--or m usually ) ! head ( a lion1 bull1 or "s o!r animal4 ,to ! second class belong ^? atta*$ to ! e> by a hook mask$ by a rosette or disc4 ,f ?is hang "o or m p5dants ( a v>iety ( designs4 ,9 r>e in/ances ^! consi/ ( beads hung to little *a9s2 b ! logical s5se ( ! anci5ts pref]r$ = ! purpose ?+s t might be imag9$ z float+1 su* z a little figure ( ,eros1 or a t9y ,victory be>+ a wrea?4 ,! place on ! r+ :]e ! p5dant is atta*$ is almo/ inv>iably made prom95t by a sauc]-%ap$ rosette1 a mask1 or simil> object ornam5t$ ) f9e ?reads ( gold4 ,opaque enamel1 ( :ite1 blue1 or gre51 is sometimes f\nd appli$ ?9ly to ! surface ( ! metal4 ,_m e>r+s are ( ! mo/ complicat$ design4 ,:5 ! e>-p5dant 0 conf9$ to a r+ ) a cresc5t-%ap$ l[] "p1 ?is ornam5t w\ld produce no effect except :5 ! we>] 0 se5 9 pr(ile4 ,9 ord] to make ! ornam5t visible f ! front1 ! idea sugge/$ itself to hang ! cresc5t r+ on to a small] "o4 ,wond]fully well execut$ are "s ( ! lat] ,greek e>r+s 9 :i* small figures are atta*$ directly to ! hook :i* is ins]t$ into ! e>4 ,among ^! are figures ( ,eros play+ a musical in/rum5t or hold+ a jug z if p\r+ a libation4 ,by ! amplification ( ! app5dages we f9d ! simpl] e>r+s assume su* an imm5se increase 9 dim5sion z to make x impossible t !y 7 atta*$ to ! lobe ( ! e>4 ,x may be assum$ t !y 7 fa/5$ to ! diadem or frontlet1 or to a plait$ tress ( hair1 & hung ov] ! e>1 or m to ! front ov] ! temples4 ,naturally ?is species ( ornam5t1 ow+ to its weight & ! _m sep>ate pieces ( :i* x 0 made1 w\ld prev5t ! we>] f mak+ any rapid movem5ts1 b 0 adapt$ to a sl[ & dignifi$ pace 9 walk+4 ,x w\ld also h ! additional motive ( increas+ ! comm&+ appe>ance ( ! individual4 ,a spl5did pair ( head app5dages ( ?is "* discov]$ at ,k]t* are n[ at ,/4 ,pet]sburg4 ,!y are compos$ ( two l>ge m$allions repres5t+ ! head ( ,a!ne1 ^: helmet is adorn$ ) sph9xes & gryphons4 ,f ^! are susp5d$ sev]al r[s ( amphora-%ap$ ornam5ts cov]$ ) f9e filigree decoration4 ,! decorat+ ( ! head ) wrea?s 0 a v common practice among ! anci5ts on fe/ive occasions ( e description4 ,! wrea?s ) :i* ! dead 7 adorn$ = burial1 made 9 imitation ( natural leaves1 =m a l>ge portion ( fun]eal jewell]y4 ,"o ( ! mo/ fam\s ( ?is species1 f\nd 9 #ahac at ,arm5to 7,s4 ,italy71 & pur*as$ ab\t #ahbf by ,ludwig ,i1 ,k+ ( ,bav>ia1 f ,c\ntess ,lipona 7=m]ly ,que5 ( ,naples & wife ( ,joa*im ,murat7 is n[ 9 ! ,antiqu>ium at ,muni*4 ,"h ! wrea?1 =m$ ( roses1 n>cissus1 myrtle & oak leaves1 is enliv5$ by small figures ( g5ii1 :ile on ! top is plac$ a /atue ) an inscription und]nea? x4 ,?is spl5did specim5 0 probably employ$ = votive purposes4 ,dat+ f ! ?ird c5tury ,b4,c41 & also f ,magna ,grcia1 is ! gold cr[n 9 ! ,briti% ,museum :i* 0 acquir$ f ! collection ( ,c\nt ,tyszkiewicz 9 #ahih 7,pl4 ,v1 #a74 ,be+ ( m solid con/ruction1 ?\gh excessively light & elegant1 ?is1 & simil>ly elaborate cr[ns 9 ! ,l\vre1 7 probably worn by ladies ( high rank4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,iv ,,greek ,,jewell]y 7,,e>r+s1 ,,necklace ,,& ,,hair-,,p97 ,9 addition to ^! diadems compos$ ( _m m9ute p>ts1 ! simple/ & probably ! mo/ usual =m is t ( a flat b& increas+ 9 bread? t[>ds ! middle1 & end+ !re sometimes 9 a blunt po9t m>k$ by a palmette4 ,p9s t s]v$ ! purpose ( fa/5+ up & decorat+ ! hair v>y 9 /yle1 _! heads be+ =m$ sometimes ( fl[]s1 & sometimes ( animals or human figures1 resembl+ ^? employ$ z p5dants to e>r+s4 ,probably ! mo/ important is ! h&some p9 9 ! ,briti% ,museum f ,paphos 9 ,cyprus 7,pl4 ,,iv1 #f74 ,! head1 surm\nt$ ) a bead ( ,egyptian porcela9 ) a pe>l above1 is 9 ! =m ( a capital ( a column4 ,at ! f\r corn]s are project+ heads ( bulls1 & betwe5 ^! are op5 cups or fl[]s1 t[>ds :i* f\r doves ) out/ret*$ w+s b5d z if to dr9k4 ,typical necklaces ( ! be/ p]iod consi/ ( a *a9 ab\t ?ree-eigh?s ( an in* 9 wid?1 ( closely plait$ gold wire4 ,f ?is are susp5d$ num]\s small] *a9s1 mask$ at ! top by small rosettes & hung bel[ ) vases1 sp9dle-%ap$ pieces1 or a rhy?mical comb9ation ( o!r ornam5ts cov]$ ) f9e filigree4 ,! ,briti% ,museum possesses sev]al sup]b necklaces4 ,to ! f9e/ "o1 f\nd 9 ! isl& ( ,melos1 col\r is add$ by means ( gre5 & blue enamel 7,pl4 ,v1 #c74 ,bracelets & armlets1 :i* are r>] ?an necklaces1 are ( ?ree =ms3 a f9e plait$ *a91 l t ( ! necklaces1 unit$ by a clasp 9 ! =m ( a knot2 rep\ss plaques h+$ toge!r2 & a circlet ( beat5 gold ( m solid con/ruction4 ,! prim>y object ( ! f+] r+ 0 its use z a conv5i5t me?od ( c>ry+ ! engrav$ /one :i* 0 to s]ve z a signet4 ,h5ce 9 e>ly times m att5tion 0 paid to ! engrav+ ( ! gem set 9 ! r+ ?an to its m\nt+4 ,_m e>ly r+s are entirely ( gold & made g5]ally ( "o piece1 ) a l>ge flat bezel engrav$ l a gem4 ,a great numb] ( !m1 ?\gh app>5tly solid1 are holl[1 & =m$ ( gold leaf pun*$ into %ape & !n fill$ up ) ma/ic to pres]ve ! =m4 ,! ornam5tal r+s ( ! lat] ,greeks h be5 f\nd *iefly 9 ! luxuri\s colonies ( ,magna ,grcia4 ,"o ( ! mo/ *>m+ designs is 9 ! %ape ( a s]p5t :i* coils itself _m times r\nd ! f+]1 ) its head & tail ly+ along ! f+]4 ,x is wor?y ( rem>k t ?\gh a numb] ( ,greek r+s are 9 exi/5ce1 nev] 9 ,greek art1 z 9 ,etruscan & ,roman1 d we f9d any repres5tation ( ! human figure ) r+s on ! f+]s4 ,9 e>li] times simple p9s =m$ ( gold wire appe> to h be5 (t5 employ$ to fa/5 ! dress4 ,b[-%ap$ broo*es 7 also worn1 b few gold broo*es are met ) except ^? belong+ to ! lat] ,greek ornam5ts4 ,^! are *>act]is$ by a small ar*$ b[ & a long %ea? = ! po9t ( ! p9 decorat$ ) designs 9 f9e filigree4 ,! goldsmi?'s art is mu* m limit$ 9 its application to girdles ?an to head or neck ornam5ts2 & yet1 z is well kn[n1 girdles =m$ an important item 9 ! dress ( m5 & wom54 ,! girdle ov] :i* ! long tunic hung 9 deep folds 0 (t5 ( simple cords ) tassels affix$ to ! ends3 ?us ,hom] speaks ( ,h]a z we>+ a zone f :i* a hundr$ tassels hang4 ,girdles appe> to h be5 ma9ly ( s(t ligam5ts1 :i* probably1 ) ! increase ( luxury1 7 adorn$ ) gold ornam5tations4 ,x is rem>kable1 at all ev5ts1 t ^? species ( gold ornam5t t c c]ta9ly be recognis$ z girdles are obvi\s imitations ( textile fabrics4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,v ,,greek ,,jewell]y 7,,cr[n1 ,,necklaces1 ,,bracelet1 ,,r+s7 ,correspond+ to ! ornam5ts f\nd at ,myc5 :i* 7 employ$ by ! primitive ,greeks = decorat+ _! g>m5ts are ?9 plates ( gold1 t]m$ bracte1 pi]c$ ) small holes1 :i* s]v$ ! lat] ,greeks = simil> purpose4 ,!y are rep\ss1 & h cle>ly be5 /amp$ ) dies1 = ! designs on !m %[ con/ant repetition4 ,!y are ( v>i\s sizes & %apes1 & x is evid5t t "s 7 meant to be worn z s+le ornam5ts1 :ile o!rs1 sewn on 9 l9es1 =m$ regul> bord]s or designs on ! robes4 ,x is possible t1 l ! ball-%ap$ buttons met ) 9 _m fanciful =mations1 "s ( m solid con/ruction s]v$ ! purpose ( clasps t drew toge!r ! dress at int]vals along ! arm1 & act$ z fa/5+s at ! neck or on ! %\ld]4 ,"s atta*m5ts ( ?is k9d 9 ! =m ( r\nd discs1 ) _! gold surface ri*ly ornam5t$ ) filigree & also ) enamel1 may h be5 actual broo*es & h _h h+$ p9s affix$ bel[4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,etruscan ,,jewell]y ,! ,etruscans appe> to h _h a peculi> passion = jewell]y4 ,ev5 9 e>ly times1 :5 ! excessive use ( p]sonal ornam5t 0 consid]$ a m>k ( effem9acy1 !y 7 fam$ = _! jewels4 ,dionysius ( ,halic>nassus1 speak+ ( ! ,sab9es1 says t !y wore bracelets on _! left arms1 & r+s1 = !y 7 a gold-we>+ nation1 & n less effem9ate ?an ! ,etruscans4 ,l mo/ o!r nations ( antiquity1 ! ,etruscans d$icat$ to ! s]vice ( ! dead co/ly articles ( adornm5t :i* !y _h worn :5 liv+2 ?\gh ! great] numb] ( ^! jewels are flimsy objects made = mortu>y purposes4 ,on ,etruscan s>cophagi ! m5 h torques ab\t _! necks1 :ile ! wom5 h sometimes torques1 sometimes necklaces1 long e>r+s1 & bracelets1 & bo? sexes h _m r+s on _! f+]s4 ,?\gh sy/ematically rifl$ 9 =m] times1 ,etruscan tombs h yet pres]v$ to ! pres5t day a l>ge numb] ( jewels1 suffici5t to prove t ! possibilities ( gold 7 nev] m ?or\ghly grasp$ ?an by ! ,etruscans4 ,_! e>li] jewell]y--= ! lat] is mu* co>s]--%[s extraord9>y f95ess & elaboration ( workman%ip4 ,!y possess$ a peculi> art ( fus+ & jo9+ metals by ! use ( solv5ts unkn[n to u1 :i* r5d]$ invisible ! traces ( sold]4 ,surface decoration 0 produc$ by ! int]weav+ ( extremely delicate ?reads ( gold1 by a sp>+ use ( enamel1 & p>ticul>ly by ! sold]+ toge!r ( p>ticles or globules ( gold ( su* m9ut5ess & equality z to be sc>cely p]ceptible to ! nak$ eye4 ,animal or human =ms 7 skilfully execut$ 9 relief by rep\ss1 or produc$ 9 ! r\nd ) ! assi/ance ( sold]4 ,b ! *ief *>act]i/ic ( _! jewell]y1 & t :i* ma9ly di/+ui%es x f ! ,greek1 is its ornam5tation ) gra9s ( gold ( microscopic size4 ,! me?od ( decorat+ ! surface ( gold ) f9e granules1 :i* is usually t]m$ granulation1 is "o :i* 0 9 fav\r among all anci5t gold work]s 9 ! c\ntries bord]+ on ! ,m$it]ranean4 ,! pulvisculus aureus1 z x 0 call$ 9 ,italy1 came into common use t[>ds ! close ( ! ,myc5an ,age1 at a "t :5 ! ,pho5icians 7 mak+ _! influ5ce felt 9 ,cyprus1 ,s>d9ia1 & ,etruria1 :]e examples ( ?is me?od ( gold work+ p>ticul>ly ab\nd4 ,we are probably "r 9 assum+ t ?is granulat$ "w 0 indig5\s to ! ,ea/]n ,m$it]ranean1 & t1 z x has be5 f\nd ^u jewels ( und\bt$ ,pho5ician orig91 ! ,pho5icians 7 n un9/rum5tal 9 dissem9at+ x along _! trade r\tes4 ,cell9i1 9 8 description ( ! process ( granulation 9 8 ,trattato dell' ,orefic]ia1 speaks ( ea* gra9 be+ made sep>ately & sold]$ on1 a te*nique probably practis$ by ! anci5t jewell]s4 ,b 9 ! case ( ! m9ute/ ,etruscan "w1 x is n improbable t ! gra9s--at fir/ natural1 ?\gh subsequ5tly artificial--7 spr9kl$ l du/ ov] ! p>ts ( ! surface :i* _h to be cov]$4 ,?is f9e granulation belongs only to ! e>ly & be/ ,etruscan jewels4 ,l>g] gra9s 7 us$ = lat] "w4 ,x is rem>kable t ! secrets ( ! old ,etruscan goldsmi?s h nev] be5 :olly recov]$ 9 ,europe4 ,t ! art ( granulation1 ?\gh m5tion$ by ,cell9i1 0 n g5]ally practis$ by ! goldsmi?s ( ! ,r5aissance is evid5t f ! examples ( _! "w t h surviv$4 ,9 rec5t ye>s attempts h be5 made to revive ! art2 b z ! well-kn[n productions ( ,ca/ellani ! eld]1 ) 8 ,aless&ro ! connoisseur & ,augu/o1 & ( ,c>lo ,giuliano1 are connect$ ) ! lat] hi/ory ( jewell]y1 fur!r ref]5ce w be made to !m subsequ5tly4 ,z might be expect$1 important collections ( ,etruscan jewell]y are pres]v$ 9 museums close to ! sites :]e ! objects !mselves h be5 discov]$4 ,"o ( ! mo/ ext5sive ( su* collections is t 9 ! museum ( ! ,vatican1 :i* 0 br\ght toge!r by ,pope ,gregory ,,xvi f ! di/ricts :i* till #ahgj =m$ "p ( ! papal doma94 ,! ,briti% ,museum1 ! ,l\vre1 & ! museums ( ,b]l9 & ,muni* all conta9 a l>ge numb] ( ornam5ts f ! old cemet]ies ( ! ,etruscan races4 ,! e>lie/ ,etruscan jewell]y co9cides r\ghly ) ,greek "w ( ! late ,myc5an p]iod1 & betrays1 f ! religi\s symbols express$ on x1 a m>k$ ,ori5tal or ,egyptian influ5ce4 ,at a some:at lat] date1 t is f ab\t #ejj to #cjj ,b4,c41 x is evid5t t ! ,etruscans l>gely foll[$ ,greek models1 or import$ f ,greece1 especially f ,ionia1 "s ( ! f9e/ arti/s 9 ! preci\s metals4 ,etruscan jewell]y c !n be divid$ into ?ree di/9ct /yles3 ! primitive1 some:at ,ori5tal 9 "*1 & ( f9e b n arti/ically attractive "w2 ! lat]1 :5 ! primitive art _h be5 subject$ to ,hell5ic influ5ce & produc$ "w ( ! highe/ arti/ic & te*nical excell5ce2 & ! late/ /yle1 9 :i* ,greek art1 /ill foll[$1 b 9 a vulg>is$ =m1 results 9 ornam5ts noticeable = _! size & co>s5ess ( execution4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,vi ,,etruscan ,,jewell]y 7,,p9s1 ,,necklaces1 ,,e>r+s7 ,! ,etruscans appe> to h paid p>ticul> att5tion to ! decoration ( ! head4 ,foll[+ a cu/om 9 vogue ?r\gh\t ,greece1 m5 z well z wom5 adorn$ !mselves ) fillets2 :ile wom5 also wore highly ornate hair-p9s1 ) heads %ap$ l balls1 acorns1 & pomegranates1 decorat$ 9 granulation4 ,_m ( ^! p9s mu/ h s]v$ to fix ! diadems & fillets = :i* ! ,etruscans appe> to h _h an especial lik+4 ,! latt] are compos$ = ! mo/ "p ( ! foliage ( myrtle1 ivy1 & oak1 9 accordance ) ! symbolical ideas atta*$ to ^! leaves4 ,! great] numb] are ( plate ( gold1 s ?9 & fragile t !y c only h be5 employ$ z sepul*ral ornam5ts--l ! wrea? ( ivy leaves & b]ries ( ?9 gold /ill encircl+ ! bronze helmet f ,vulci 9 ! ,room ( ,greek & ,roman ,life 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 & a simil> wrea? ( bracteate gold ar\nd a conical bronze helmet 9 ! ,salle des ,bij\x ,antiques ( ! ,l\vre4 ,e>r+s ( ! f9e/ p]iod be> a /rik+ simil>ity to ,greek ornam5ts ( ! same date4 ,! fir/ type is p5annul> 9 %ape1 "o end t]m9at+ 9 ! head ( a bull or lion1 & ! o!r 9 a po9t :i* pi]ces ! e>4 ,to ?is r+ is next atta*$ a p5dant4 ,9 ! ?ird type ! hook :i* pi]ces ! e> is hidd5 by a rosette or disc f :i* hang tassel-%ap$ app5dages1 & 9 ! middle betwe5 !m small animals enamell$ :ite1 su* z ! geese1 swans1 & cocks 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 & ! peacocks & doves 9 ! ,campana ,collection 9 ! ,l\vre4 ,e>r+s ( ano!r class are saddle-%ap$1 =m$ l an imp]fect cyl9d]1 "o end ( :i* is clos$ by an op5-"w rose cap1 :i* completely enclos$ ! lobe ( ! we>]'s e>4 ,! late/ ,etruscan e>r+s1 ( p5dant =m1 are mo/ly ( great size & 9 ! %ape ( convex bosses4 ,9 exam9+ ! v primitive necklaces & o!r ornam5ts t h be5 discov]$ 9 v>i\s tombs 9 ,italy1 especially 9 ,etruria & ,latium1 ! extraord9>y abundance ( amb] at once attracts att5tion4 ,! amb] ( ?is anci5t jewell]y ( ,italy has accessories1 sometimes ( gold1 & m frequ5tly ( silv]1 or else ( an alloy ( gold & silv] t]m$ electrum4 ,a notewor?y e>ly necklace ( ^! mat]ials f\nd at ,prne/e1 & n[ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 is compos$ ( amb] cyl9d]s1 & p5d5t vases alt]nately ( amb] & electrum 7,pl4 ,,vi1 #b74 ,?\gh ! majority ( ,etruscan necklaces aim at l>g5ess ( display1 "s are z delicate & ref9$ z ! be/ ,greek ornam5ts4 ,f a r\nd plait$ *a9 9 ! ,briti% ,museum hangs a s+le ornam5t--! mask ( a faun ^: hair1 eyebr[s1 & wavy be>d are work$ ) f9e granulation2 ano!r p5dant is a negro's head on :i* ! granules are dispos$ ) exquisite skill to repres5t ! %ort woolly hair 7,pl4 ,,vi1 #e74 ,f9] ev5 ?an ei!r ( ^!--& a rem>kable example ( ! comb9ation ( ! two processes ( filigree & granulation--is a neck p5dant 9 ! =m ( a mask ( ,dionysos 7,bac*us7 9 ! ,campana ,collection 9 ! ,l\vre4 ,on ?is ! curls ( hair ov] ! =ehead are repres5t$ by filigree spirals1 :ile ! be>d is work$ entirely 9 ! granulat$ me?od4 ,a l>ge numb] ( necklaces h evid5tly be5 produc$ simply = sepul*ral purposes1 = !y are compos$1 l ! majority ( cr[ns1 ( ! ?9ne/ bracteate gold 9 ! %ape ( rosettes & /uds /rung toge!r4 ,! *ief *>act]i/ic ( ,etruscan necklaces is _! ornam5tation ) p5d5t bull4 ,! bulla1 f ! ,lat9 ^w mean+ a bubble1 0 usually made ( two concave plates ( gold fa/5$ toge!r s z to =m a globe--l5toid or vase-%ap$-)9 :i* an amulet 0 conta9$4 ,9 ,etruscan art bo? m5 & wom5 are repres5t$ we>+ necklaces & ev5 bracelets =m$ ( bull4 ,occasionally1 in/ead ( a bulla1 is "s su* object z ! too? or claw ( an animal or a small primitive fl9t arr[-head1 :i* s]v$ z an amulet4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,vii ,,etruscan ,,jewell]y 7,,broo*es1 ,,diadem1 ,,bracelet1 ,,r+s7 ,( bracelets ( primitive "w are a fam\s pair 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 :i* 7 discov]$ 9 a tomb at ,c]vetri 7,cre74 ,!y are compos$ ( ?9 plates ( gold measur+ #h in*es 9 l5g? by #b in*es 9 wid?1 divid$ into six sections1 ornam5t$ ) sc5es ?or\ghly ,assyrian 9 "*1 indicat$ by l9es ( microscopic granulations 7,pl4 ,,vii1 #d74 ,etruscan fibul ( gold are g5]ally =m$ ( a %ort arc-%ap$ b[ & a long %ea? = ! p9 decorat$ ) m9ute granul> "w4 ,^u ! upp] surface are (t5 r[s ( small models ( animals4 ,^u ! %ea? ( a l>ge e>ly fibula f\nd at ,c]vetri 7,cre71 & n[ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 is a d\ble r[ ( tw5ty-f\r /&+ lions 7,pl4 ,,vii1 #a74 ,! b[ ( ! lat] fibul is sometimes 9 ! =m ( a s+le figure1 z t ( a cr\*+ lion4 ,a consid]able numb] ( small fibul ( ?is type appe> to h be5 worn 9 r[s d[n ! seam ( ! dress4 ,two s]ies ( ^!1 ! "o numb]+ tw5ty-"o & ! o!r ?irty-n9e1 bo? f\nd 9 a tomb at ,vulci1 are 9 ! ,l\vre4 ,! ,etruscans appe> to h _h a special love = r+s2 e f+]1 includ+ ! ?umb1 0 cov]$ ) !m1 & a consid]able numb] h be5 discov]$ 9 ! tombs4 ,! majority are compos$ ( sc>abs m\nt$ mu* 9 ! same /yle z ^? ( ! ,egyptians4 ,"o ( ! f9e/ ,etruscan r+s 9 ! ,briti% ,museum is =m$ by two lions1 ^: bodies make up ! %ank1 _! heads & =e-paws & support+ a bezel 9 filigree :i* holds ! signet /one--a small sc>abu *>g$ ) a lion reg>dant4 ,ano!r rem>kable class ( ,etruscan r+s has l>ge oval bezels measur+ upw>ds ( an in* & a half across4 ,^! are set ) an engrav$ gem1 & h wide bord]s ornam5t$ ) v>i\s designs4 ,an example 9 ! ,briti% ,museum %[s a patt]n =m$ ( dolph9s & waves4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,roman ,,jewell]y ,! f\ndation ( ! designs ( ,roman jewell]y is to be f\nd among ! ornam5ts ( ! anci5t ,lat9 & ,etruscan races :i* ,rome subdu$4 ,t !re is consid]able resemblance also betwe5 ,roman & ,greek jewell]y is natural1 = ! ,romans1 hav+ plund]$ fir/ ,sicily & ,s\!rn ,italy1 & !n ,greece itself1 induc$ ,greek workm5 ) m ref9$ in/9cts ?an _! own to eke out a prec>i\s liv+ z provid]s ( luxuri\s ornam5ts4 ,x is wor?y ( rem>k t1 ow+ to v>i\s causes1 ,greek & ,etruscan jewell]y has surviv$ 9 consid]ably great] quantity ?an has t f ! mu* m luxuri\s times ( ! ,roman ,empire4 ,x is cu/om>y to associate ,roman jewell]y ) a degree ( luxury :i* has n be5 surpass$ 9 anci5t or mod]n times4 ,roman morali/s1 satiri/s1 & comic poets ref] aga9 & aga9 to ! extravagance ( _! own day4 ,! fir/ nam$1 f a sombre po9t ( view1 condemn ! pres5t to ! advantage ( ! pa/2 & ! o!rs1 ) a di/ort$ view1 /udy exceptional cases1 & take social mon/rosities z be+ fai?ful repres5tations ( ! :ole ( society4 ,"u ! ,republic ne>ly all ornam5ts 7 worn = (ficial purposes1 & ! we>+ ( preci\s /ones 0 prohibit$ except 9 r+s2 b 9 imp]ial times !y 7 worn 9 lavi% pr(usion1 & successive emp]ors1 by a s]ies ( sumptu>y laws1 attempt$ to *eck ! progress ( ?is extravagance4 ,_m in/ances might be quot$ ( excessive luxury 9 ! use ( preci\s /ones1 l t ( ! lady describ$ by ,pl9y1 :o at a simple betro?al c]emony 0 cov]$ ) pe>ls & em]alds f head to foot4 ,yet ,roman luxury 0 n )\t its p>allel 9 lat] ages4 ,= 9 ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies we read h[ at c\rt ! wom5 c>ri$ _! :ole =tunes 9 a s+le dress4 ,fur!r1 z f> z c be judg$1 ! p]sonal ornam5ts ( ! anci5ts 7 = ! mo/ "p subject to mu* less frequ5t *ange ( fa%ion ?an is inevitable "u ! social conditions ( m mod]n times4 ,) reg>d to ornam5ts ( ! head1 diadems & fillets 7 mu* worn4 ,ladies ( ! ,roman ,empire dress$ _! hair 9 ! mo/ elaborate mann]1 & adorn$ x ) pe>ls1 preci\s /ones1 & o!r ornam5ts4 ,= fix+ _! head-dresses1 & = arrang+ ! hair1 !y made use ( long hair-p9s4 ,a gold specim5 pres]v$ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum is upw>ds ( eight in*es 9 l5g?2 x has an octagonal %aft cr[n$ ) a ,cor9?ian capital1 on :i* /&s a figure ( ,aphrodite 7,pl4 ,,viii1 #c74 ,pe>ls 7 9 p>ticul> fav\r z ornam5ts = ! e>s4 ,introduc$ into ,rome ab\t ! "t ( ,sulla1 pe>ls 7 import$ 9 l>ge quantities dur+ ! ,roman dom9ation ( ,egypt4 ,9 ,vespasian's "t ,pl9y1 ref]r+ to e>r+s1 says3 ,!y seek = pe>ls at ! bottom ( ! ,r$ ,sea1 & se>* ! b[els ( ! e>? = em]alds to decorate _! e>s4 ,p]fect sph]ical pe>ls ( delicate :it5ess 7 t]m$ uniones 7i4e4 unique71 s9ce no two 7 f\nd exactly alike4 ,pe>-%ap$ pe>ls1 call$ el5*i1 7 priz$ z suitable = t]m9at+ ! p5dant1 & 7 sometimes plac$ two or ?ree toge!r = ?is purpose4 ,?us worn1 !y 7 entitl$ crotalia 7rattles71 f ! s\nd produc$ z !y cla%$ toge!r4 ,two pe>ls beside ea* o!r1 ,s5eca compla9s1 ) a ?ird on ! top n[ g to a s+le p5dant4 ,! extravagant fools probably ?9k _! husb&s are n suffici5tly plagu$ )\t _! hav+ two or ?ree h]itages hang+ d[n f _! e>s4 ,e>r+s ) s+le p5dants 7 call$ /alagmia4 ,x is especially to be notic$ t ! %apes ( all anci5t jewell]y & ornam5ts1 p>ticul>ly ^? ( ! ,romans1 7 9 a great measure decid$ by a belief 9 _! magical effici5cy4 ,! we>+ ( amulets 0 mo/ frequ5t among ! ,romans ( all classes4 ,!y 7 g5]ally enclos$ 9 a bulla1 & susp5d$ f ! neck4 ,a rem>kable specim5 ( a bulla1 f\nd at ,h]culaneum1 & pres5t$ by ! ,c\rt ( ,naples to ! ,empress ,joseph9e1 is n[ 9 ! ,a%molean ,museum at ,ox=d4 ,! l5toid-%ap$ bulla 0 worn almo/ entirely by *ildr51 b o!r p5dants1 %ap$ l p5d5t vases1 or 9 ! =m ( a squ>e or cyl9drical box1 7 a n unusual ornam5t ( ! necklace ( ,roman ladies4 ,!y probably always possess$ a symbolical mean+4 ,! simple neck-*a91 :e!r suppli$ ) ! app5dage or n1 0 call$ a monile2 ! luxury ( latt] times d\bl$ or trebl$ ! r[s ( *a9s4 ,^! 7 (t5 ( f9ely plait$ gold or else ( l9ks4 ,o!r necklaces 7 compos$ ( m\nt$ preci\s /ones1 ! fa%ion = :i* appe>s to date f ! ,ori5tal conque/s ( ,pompey 9 ! fir/ c5tury ,b4,c4 ,va/ quantities ( preci\s /ones 7 br\ght into ,rome at t date2 = ! treasury ( ,mi?ridates1 captur$ at ,talaura1 conta9$1 besides _m o!r preci\s objects1 jewels = ! brea/ & neck all set ) gems4 ,! ,romans also wore necklaces 7monilia baccata7 compos$ ( beads ( v>i\s mat]ials1 bo? preci\s /ones & glass1 ( _m col\rs & v>i\s %apes4 ,amb] 0 l>gely employ$ = ! purpose1 & held 9 high e/imation by ,roman ladies1 :o reg>d$ x n only z an ornam5t1 b z a talisman = protection aga9/ dang]1 especially wit*craft4 ,amb] 9 :i* small insects 7 enclos$ 0 p>ticul>ly priz$3 ! price1 says ,pl9y1 ( a small figure 9 x1 h[ev] dim9utive1 exce$s t ( a liv+ heal?y slave4 ,bo? cameos & l>ge intaglios 7 9 frequ5t use z p5d5t ornam5ts1 & 9 ! mo/ rec5t pieces ( ,roman jewell]y imp]ial gold co9s 7 employ$ = r+s1 bracelets1 & especially = p5dants to necklaces4 ,= ! latt] purpose !y are n infrequ5tly f\nd set 9 opus int]rasile--! op5-"w *>act]i/ic ( late ,roman jewell]y4 ,! be/ example ( cameos & co9s m\nt$ ?us is a necklace 9 ! ,cab9et des ,mdailles at ,p>is4#c #c ,babelon 7,e4 ,c4 ,f471 ,catalogue des cames antiques de la ,bib4 ,nat4 7,no4 #cfg71 p4 #aii4 ,9 ! case ( bracelets 7armill7 :i* 7 fav\rite ornam5ts among ! ,romans1 two k9ds h to be notic$4 ,! fir/1 t]m$ dextro*]ium1 0 meant to be worn r\nd ! "r wri/1 & foll[s ! same rules ( =mation z ! necklace1 b no p5d5t motives are introduc$4 ,o!r bracelets are =m$ ( two r\nd$ halves ( solid "*1 h+$1 & clos$ by a snap4 ,! second k9d ( bracelet or armlet1 worn on ! upp] arm1 0 ! bra*iale or torques bra*ialis2 ano!r 0 ! sp9!r1 :i* kept its place on ! arm by its own ela/icity4 ,! diff]5ce1 h[ev]1 betwe5 ! diff]5t ,lat9 t]ms = ! armlet is some:at obscure4 ,orig9ally ( pure gold1 bracelets 7 subsequ5tly set ) preci\s /ones & engrav$ gems1 &1 l ! specim5 9 ! ,imp]ial ,cab9et at ,vi5na1 ) co9s dat+ f ! ?ird c5tury ,a4,d4 ,! s]p5t =m appe>s to h be5 a fav\rite "o among ,roman ladies1 & a f9e pair ( armlets ( ?is design are 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum 7,pl4 ,,viii1 #aa74 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,viii ,,roman ,,jewell]y ,! ,romans appe> to h be5 m extravagant 9 _! r+s ?an any o!r p4 ,v few ornam5tal r+s are e>li] 9 date ?an ! "t ( ! ,empire1 :5 ! passion = gold r+s adorn$ ) preci\s /ones & engrav$ gems seems to h p]vad$ all classes2 & x rea*$ su* extravagance t ,m>tial speaks ( a man :o wore six on e f+]1 & recomm5ds ano!r :o _h "o ( mon/r\s size to we> x on 8 leg in/ead ( 8 h&4 ,"s individuals1 we le>n1 _h diff]5t sets ( r+s = summ] & w9t]1 ^? = ! latt] season be+ too heavy = hot wea!r4 ,_! weight 0 sometimes v great1 & x is n to be wond]$ t compla9t 0 made ( _! liability to slip (f :5 ! f+] 0 greasy at a meal4 ,ev5 until ! late/ times ! r+ reta9$ its orig9al purpose z a means ( di/9ction or ( recognition1 & 0 us$ by its we>] to impress 8 seal on docum5ts & private prop]ty4 ,x cont9u$ also to be associat$ ) ! idea ( p[] & privilege especially be/[$ ^u ! individual4 ,?us ! ,roman pat]familias wore on 8 f+] a r+ ) a small key atta*$4 ,e ,roman appe>s to h *os5 at pleasure ! subject or device = 8 signet--a portrait ( a fri5d or an ance/or1 or "s subject f poetry or my?ology4 ,ea* ( ^! devices became associat$ ) a p>ticul> p]son1 & s]v$1 l ! coat-(-arms ( lat] c5turies1 z a m>k ( id5tification4 ,! commone/ v>iety ( r+ is =m$ ( a pla9 b& ( gold :i* wid5s & ?ick5s t[>ds ! bezel1 & is set ) a small /one4 ,! latt] is g5]ally engrav$1 b is (t5 q pla94 ,! simil>ity ( ! convex s>donyx to an eye (t5 /ruck ! anci5ts1 & may acc\nt = ?is /one be+ frequ5tly f\nd un5grav$ 9 r+s1 & set 9 a collet1 itself %ap$ into ! =m ( a human eye4 ,su* r+s 7 no d\bt worn z amulets4 ,r+s conta9+ /ones set 9 ?is mann] h sometimes a flatt5$ hoop & op5-"w %\ld]s4 ,o!r di/9ctly ornam5tal r+s1 kn[n by ! ,romans z polypsephi1 are =m$ ( two or m r+s unit$ toge!r4 ,a l>ge numb] ( ,roman r+s are ( bronze1 & ! key r+s ref]r$ to are1 ) a v few exceptions1 ( ?is mat]ial4 ,iron & bronze r+s 7 n infrequ5tly gild$4 ,su* r+s1 accord+ to ,pl9y1 7 call$ ,samo?racian4 ,r+s 9 ! =m ( snakes 7 v popul>1 z 7 ^? %ap$ l a ,h]culean knot4 ,l o!r articles ( jewell]y1 r+s are sometimes set ) gold co9s ( ! late ,empire4 ,a few ornam5tal r+s h high pyramidal bezels :i* 7 sometimes holl[1 & 7 made to conta9 poison4 ,hannibal kill$ himself ) a dose ( poison :i* he c>ri$ ab\t ) him 9 8 r+2 s did ! (fic] 9 *>ge ( ! temple ( ,jupit] ,capitol9us4 ,be+ arre/$1 says ,pl9y1 he broke ! /one ( 8 r+ betwe5 8 tee? & expir$ on ! spot4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,byzant9e ,,jewell]y ,! peculi> int]e/ ( ,byzant9e jewell]y lies1 n only 9 its own composite nature1 b 9 ! great influ5ce x ex]cis$ on ,european ornam5ts dur+ ! great] "p ( ! ,middle ,ages4 ,byzant9e jewell]y is ! result ( a compromise betwe5 ,ori5tal & ,we/]n influ5ces4 ,x reta9s ! craftsman%ip ( anci5t ,rome & ! dignity ( classical traditions modifi$ by ,*ri/ian ideas1 & to ^! x unites ! skill 9 pati5t & exub]ant decoration 9 :i* ! ,ori5tal workman excels4 ,! new era1 inaugurat$ 9 #ccj ,a4,d4 by ! transf] by ,con/ant9e ( ! seat ( empire to ! old colony ( ,byzantium1 0 m>k$ at fir/ by a ret5tion ( ! ,greek & ,lat9 influ5ces2 b ! quantities ( pe>ls & preci\s /ones t pass$ ?r\gh ,con/ant9ople1 ! highway ( comm]ce betwe5 ,europe & ! ,ea/1 soon r5d]$ ! workm5 ( ! ,empire susceptible to ! magnific5ce ( ,ori5tal decoration4 ,ow+ to ! irruption ( ,ori5tal ideas 9 ! six? c5tury consequ5t on ! sack ( ,antio* by ! ,p]sians & ! conque/s ( ,belis>ius1 spl5d\r ( mat]ial began to sup]s$e ! ref9em5t ( classical times4 ,?is t5d5cy is admirably display$ on ! ri* mosaics ( ! p]iod1 especially ^? 9 ! *ur* ( ,san ,vitale at ,rav5na 9 ,italy1 :i* repres5t ! ,emp]or ,ju/9ian & 8 wife ,!odora4 ,! ,empress & h] att5dants are clo!d 9 robes /iff5$ ) gold & set ) preci\s /ones2 pe>ls1 rubies1 & em]alds encircle h] neck & %\ld]s1 &1 entirely cov]+ h] head1 hang d[n f ! temples 9 ri* fe/oons ^u ! brea/4 ,ju/9ian also has a diadem ^u 8 head1 & a purple & gold embroid]$ mantle fa/5$ ) a mon/r\s fibula hung ) triple p5dants4 ,! outbreak ( iconoclasm 9 ! eigh? c5tury _h its influ5ce on jewell]y 9 caus+ ! bani%m5t ( =ms ornam5t$ ) ! proscrib$ figures4 ,b ! iconocla/ic movem5t 0 also ( v great importance1 s9ce _m goldsmi?s driv5 f _! c\ntry by ! decrees ( ,leo ,,iii e/abli%$ !mselves 9 ,italy1 ,g]many1 & ,gaul1 c>ry+ ) !m ! processes & designs ( ,byzant9e art4 ,! re/oration ( images by ,basil ! ,mac$onian 9 ! n9? c5tury op5$ an important p]iod ( revival ( indu/ry & art1 :i* la/$ until ! sack ( ,con/ant9ople by ! ,crusad]s 9 #abjd4 ,! active ov]l& trade ) ,india :i* _h be5 kept up = _m ye>s1 ) no small influ5ce on ! ornam5ts ( ! ,we/1 0 mu* augm5t$2 :ile ! comm]cial relations ) ,p]sia 7 ma9ta9$4 ,x 0 dur+ ! p]iod f ! t5? c5tury onw>ds t ! influ5ce ( ,byzant9e art 0 mo/ /rongly felt 9 ! ,we/1 ow+ to ! connection :i* 0 e/abli%$ betwe5 ! ,g]man c\rt & ,con/ant9ople1 ?r\gh ! m>riage ( ! ,emp]or ,o?o ,,ii ) ! ,byzant9e ,pr9cess ,!ophano1 daught] ( ,romanus1 9 #igb4 ,a consid]able proportion ( ,byzant9e ornam5ts1 z %[n by ! mosaics1 consi/$ ( gems sewn ^u ! dress4 ,actual specim5s ( jewell]y are naturally ( consid]able r>ity4 ,! ,briti% ,museum conta9s a small b repres5tative collection4#d ,!y %[ a diff]5ce f ! jewels ( classical times *iefly 9 ! sub/itution ( co>se rep\ss & op5-"w--! opus int]rasile ( lat] ,roman "w--= f9e filigree & granulation2 yet filigree 0 employ$ ) skill1 & ex]cis$ a consid]able influ5ce on ! "w ( ,european craftsm54 ,9 g5]al =m ! ornam5ts ( ! ,l[] ,empire reta9$ ! "* ( anci5t "w1 b add$ to x fre% designs to suit ! *ange ( religion ) its accompany+ symbolism4 ,enamel & col\r$ /ones1 employ$ ) a res]ve 9 antique ornam5ts1 n[ =m$ ! *ief arti/ic aspect ( jewell]y4 ,cloisonn inlay1 t is to say ! incru/ation ( glass or g>net 9 cells1 0 made use (1 b cloisonn enamel 0 pref]r$4 ,9 ! majority ( ornam5ts1 h[ev]1 preci\s /ones appe> to h pr$om9at$4#e #d ,dalton 7,o4 ,m471 ,catalogue ( e>ly ,*ri/ian antiquities 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 #aija4 #e ,cunynghame 7,h4 ,h471 ,european enamels1 p4 #dj4 ,z ornam5ts = ! head1 wrea?s 7 worn1 especially ^u fe/al occasions4 ,f ! e>lie/ ,*ri/ian times ! bride & bridegroom at _! w$d+ wore1 z 9 "s c\ntries at ! pres5t day1 cr[ns ( gold1 silv]1 gre5 leaves1 or fl[]s1 :i* 7 aft]w>ds return$ to ! *ur*4 ,e>ly ,byzant9e e>r+s naturally foll[ ! ,roman patt]ns4 ,"s take ! =m ( a p5annul> wire loop hold+ a ?imble-%ap$ cage ( filigree1 ! flat end ( :i* is clos$1 & has 9 ! c5tre a sett+ = a preci\s /one4 ,! majority ( ,byzant9e e>r+s are1 h[ev]1 ( a peculi> design4 ,! mo/ usual type1 f ! six? c5tury onw>ds1 is cresc5t-%ap$1 =m$ ( gold rep\ss & op5-work$ 9 ! =m ( a cross pate )9 a circle1 support$ on ei!r side by peacocks confront$4 ,dat+ f ! f9e/ p]iod1 i4e4 ab\t ! twelf? c5tury1 is a pair ( e>r+s 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 9 ! %ape ( a segm5t ( a circle1 ornam5t$ on bo? sides ) figures ( birds 9 blue1 gre51 & :ite cloisonn enamel4 ,^u ! out] bord] ( ea* segm5t are pe>ls fix$ ^u radiat+ p9s1 alt]nat+ ) pyramids ( pellets2 on ! inn] is a disc decorat$ ) simil> enamels4 ,! cross is naturally ! mo/ fav\rite ( p5dants2 yet ?is symbol does n appe> to h be5 commonly worn on ! p]son till ab\t ! fif? c5tury4 ,among ! mo/ int]e/+ pectoral crosses 9 ! ,briti% ,museum is "o inscrib$ ) a text f ,galatians ,,vi4 #ad2 ^u its arms & l[] "p are r+s = p5d5t gems1 & 9 ! c5tre ! sett+ = a /one4 ,ano!r cross1 ornam5t$ ) niello$#f figures ( our ,"l1 ! ,virg91 & two angels or milit>y sa9ts1 has ! "n ( its own] inscrib$ at ! back4 ,bo? date f ab\t ! t5? or elev5? c5tury4 ,"o ( ! f9e/ & ! be/ kn[n ( su* ornam5ts is ! gold & enamell$ pectoral cross 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum1 kn[n z ! ,b]es=d-,hope ,cross4 ,?is rem>kable specim5 ( ,byzant9e jewell]y1 dat+ f ab\t ! eigh? c5tury1 is =m$ ( two cruci=m plates ( gold1 h+$ s z to =m a reliqu>y1 & set 9 a silv]-gilt frame ( lat] workman%ip ?an ! cross itself4 ,! figures ^u x1 execut$ 9 transluc5t cloisonn enamel1 repres5t on "o "p ! ,savi\r on ! cross1 ) bu/s ( ! ,virg9 & ,/4 ,john on ei!r side1 & on ! o!r a full-l5g? figure ( ! ,virg9 & ! heads ( f\r sa9ts 7,pl4 ,,ix1 #h74 ,jewell]y ornam5t$ 9 ?is mann] is ( great r>ity2 be+ execut$ ne>ly always ^u pure gold1 x has seldom escap$ ! crucible4 #f ,niello3 a composition ( lead1 silv]1 sulphur1 & borax4 ,judg+ f ! mosaics1 z1 = example1 ! portraits ( ,ju/9ian 9 ! *ur*es ( ,san ,vitale & ,sant' ,apoll9>e ,nuovo at ,rav5na1 broo*es ( ! circul> type appe> to h be5 g5]ally worn4 ,_! *ief *>act]i/ic 0 ! pres5ce ( ?ree *a9s set ) jewels atta*$ to !m by loops4 ,co9s1 z 9 ,roman times1 7 frequ5tly m\nt$ z broo*es 9 a bead$ or op5-"w edg+4 ,b[-%ap$ broo*es 7 worn1 b n aft] ! six? c5tury4 ,?ree inscrib$ examples ( ! f\r? c5tury1 "o ( !m ( gold1 are 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,ix ,,byzant9e ,,jewell]y1 ,,& ,,enamell$ ,,jewell]y ,,9 ,,! ,,byzant9e ,,/yle ,simil> 9 workman%ip to ! cresc5t-%ap$ e>r+s describ$ above1 & ( ab\t ! same date1 is a rem>kable gold bracelet 9 ! ,franks ,beque/4 ,x is =m$ ( an op5-"w hoop decorat$ ) swans & peacocks enclos$ 9 scrolls issu+ f a vase4 ,a circul> m$allion ) a rep\ss bu/ ( ! ,virg9 =ms ! clasp4 ,f+] r+s h surviv$ 9 great] numb]s ?an o!r ,byzant9e ornam5ts4 ,! majority are figur$ ) ! beautiful symbolism ( ! ,*ri/ian belief4 ,"s are set ) engrav$ gems1 b on mo/ ! design is produc$ by ! m simple process ( engrav+ ! metal ( :i* ! r+ is compos$4 ,9 e>ly ,*ri/ian times r+s 7 (t5 (f]$ z pres5ts1 & 7 engrav$ ) expressions ( good-w t[>ds ! recipi5t1 ^: "n is sometimes m5tion$4 ,! ,briti% ,museum conta9s a some:at ext5sive collection ( ^! r>e objects 9 gold4 ,bronze1 (t5 gild$1 is naturally ! common] mat]ial4 ,silv] appe>s to h be5 sc>cely ev] employ$4 ,! int]e/ ( ! majority ( ,byzant9e r+s arises r f ! subjects ) :i* !y are associat$1 ?an f ! quality ( _! workman%ip4 ,!re is1 h[ev]1 9 ! ,briti% ,museum a v beautiful example ( pi]c$ gold "w 9 ! =m ( a key r+ ) project+ tongue1 ( a k9d mu* us$ 9 ,roman times1 :i* op5$ ! lock by lift+ a lat*4 ,^u ! front ( a wide hoop are ! words ,accipe dulcis1 9 lett]s res]v$ 9 metal 9 a pi]c$ gr\nd4 ,! rema9d] ( ! hoop is divid$ into comp>tm5ts1 ea* conta9+ "o lett] ( ! inscription ,multis annis4 ,above ! inscription1 9 front1 is a rectangul> projection1 p]haps = ins]tion into a lock4 ,x is f9ely pi]c$ ) a design 9 ! =m ( ,greek crosses 7,pl4 ,,ix1 #aj74 ,! sack ( ,con/ant9ople by ! ,fr5* & ,v5etians dealt ! dea?-bl[ to ,byzant9e art4 ,until well into ! ?irte5? c5tury ! ,byzant9e goldsmi?s cont9u$ to ex]cise an important influ5ce on _! contempor>ies1 & transmitt$ to ! arti/s ( m$ival ,europe su* ( ! processes & designs ( antique art z !y _h pres]v$4 ,_! int]c\rse 0 close/ ) ,russia1 ^: jewell]y = c5turies1 ev5 up to ! pres5t day1 has foll[$ ! designs ( ! old ,byzant9e workm54 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,prehi/oric 7,,celtic7 ,,jewell]y ,,romano-,,briti% ,,jewell]y ,! e>ly ornam5ts ( ! great] "p ( ,europe rema9$ until late times entirely unt\*$ by ! culture preval5t 9 ,italy & ,greece4 ,?\gh ( great ar*ological importance1 z reveal+ successive /ages ( culture1 !y d n at ! pres5t dem& v detail$ consid]ation4 ,! decoration ( ! e>lie/ jewell]y ( ,europe--t ( ! ,bronze ,age1 :i* dates r\ghly f ab\t a ?\s& ye>s be=e ! ,*ri/ian era--is by means ( spiral & zigzag patt]ns4 ,ornam5ts h free end+s1 b5t 9 spiral1 snail-%ell coils4 ,! e>lie/ 7 ca/1 ?\gh ! hamm] 0 us$ t[>ds ! close ( ! p]iod2 sold] 0 unkn[n1 & rivets alone employ$4 ,gold & bronze 7 ! only metals employ$1 ! latt] be+ sometimes gilt by means ( ?9 gold plates1 :ile amb] is (t5 f\nd us$ z a jewel4 ,"s idea ( ^! e>ly ornam5ts c be =m$ f ! discov]ies ( objects worn by ! anci5t inhabitants ( ! ,briti% ,isles4 ,!y are1 h[ev]1 n v num]\s or important until aft] ! ,bronze ,age1 & until ! ,e>ly ,iron ,age--kn[n 9 ,engl& z ! ,late ,celtic p]iod--is rea*$4 ,! ornam5ts ( ! ,britons--t is to say ! ,bry?ons or iron-us+ ,celts--be=e !y became subject to ,rome are some:at r>e1 = few objects ( value 7 buri$ 9 graves4 ,su* z h be5 f\nd comprise bronze p9s1 broo*es1 torques1 & bracelets2 beads ( amb]1 jet1 bone1 & glass1 & bracelets also ( jet4 ,gold5 ornam5ts1 l ^? laid b>e by ,s*liemann at ,myc51 conceal$ ei!r z votive (f]+s or = ! sake ( security1 h be5 br\ght to light f "t to "t1 occasionally 9 ,engl& & m frequ5tly 9 ,irel&4 ,celtic lit]ature & leg5d are full ( ref]5ces to ^! gold5 ornam5ts1 & classical writ]s (t5 make m5tion ( !m4 ,! simple/ types ( gold ornam5ts discov]$ 9 ,engl& are r+s =m$ ( a r\nd$ b> ( equal ?ickness ?r\gh\t1 b5t into a circul> =m1 & ! extremities left disunit$4 ,_! mat]ial is gold1 s pure & flexible t ! r+s c be easily op5$ to be l9k$ into a *a9 or /rung ^u a ?9 gold wire4 ,!y 7 v probably employ$ = b>t]1 & are g5]ally kn[n z r+-money4 ,o!r r+s1 cresc5t-%ap$1 ) ends tap]+ t[>ds _! extremities1 may h s]v$ bo? z ornam5ts & sub/itutes = money4 ,o!rs1 aga91 are ( gold wire %ap$ into a sort ( rope1 or else =m$ ( a simple b> twi/$ 9 an ornam5tal mann]4 ,x has be5 sugge/$ t ! simple p5annul> r+s 7 nose-ornam5ts1 & :5 l9k$ or /rung toge!r 7 worn z necklaces2 also t ! m decorative r+s 7 e>r+s4 ,b x is q impossible to det]m9e _! actual use z p]sonal ornam5ts4 ,massive torques employ$ by ! ,celts = ! purpose ( adorn+ ! neck are occasionally f\nd ( pure gold4 ,!y consi/ ( a long piece ( metal twi/$ & turn$ into ! =m ( a circle1 ) its ends ei!r t]m9at+ 9 a knob1 or d\bl$ back 9 ! =m ( a %ort hook1 or swell+ out into cup-l t]m9ations4 ,"s are =m$ ( a squ>e b> ( gold twi/$ spirally1 o!rs ( a flat b> twi/$ 9 a light] mann]1 or ( m ?an "o b> twi/$ toge!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,x ,,prehi/oric ,,gold ,,ornam5ts ,,( ,,! ,,briti% ,,isles ,gold ornam5ts = ! arms1 kn[n by ! t]m armill1 are sometimes ( ! same ?ickness ?r\gh\t4 ,x is m usual to f9d !m pla91 ?\gh twi/$ "w 0 also appli$ to !m4 ,! majority h dilat$ ends1 or ends slightly concave4 ,) o!rs1 aga91 ^! cavities assume ! =m ( a cup s exp&$ z to pres5t ! appe>ance ( a trumpet or ! calyx ( a l>ge fl[]4 ,on ornam5ts some:at resembl+ ! latt] ! dilat$ extremities are flat plates1 :ile ! connect+ "p1 dim9utive 9 proportion to _! exagg]at$ size1 is /riat$ longitud9ally4 ,^! objects are usually describ$ z dress-fa/5]s1 b ! exact purpose = :i* !y 7 employ$ is /ill a matt] ( d\bt4 ,advanc$ skill 9 ! art ( enamell+ is "o ( ! mo/ notable features ( ! ,late ,celtic p]iod1 :i* itself ext5d$ f ! prehi/oric ,age ( ,iron & ov] ! p]iod ( ! ,roman occupation4 ,?is enamel1 execut$ by ! *amplev process on copp] & bronze1 s]v$ = ! decoration ( massive bronze p5annul> bracelets1 & = bronze p9s ) :eel-%ap$ heads4 ,9 addition to broo*es--all ( ! safety-p9 type--( an imm5se v>iety ( design1 o!r primitive bronze ornam5ts1 usually ( ! spiral =m *>act]i/ic ( ,celtic "w1 include torques1 armlets1 & anklets4 ,! torques are mo/ly p5annul> & h enl>g$ t]m9als2 ! armlets are (t5 complete r+s4 ,= ! mo/ ext5sive repres5tation ( ! prehi/oric gold ornam5ts ( ! ,briti% ,isles "o mu/ look1 n to ,engl& ^: inhabitants g5]ally assum$ ! types ( ornam5t 9 use among _! ,roman conqu]ors1 b to ,irel&1 :]e ! ,celtic traditions 7 cont9u$1 & :i* has reveal$ va/ ho>ds ( gold5 treasure4 ,9 ,celtic ,engl& dur+ ! ,bronze & ,e>ly ,iron ,ages ! majority ( p]sonal ornam5ts are ( bronze2 9 ,irel&1 h[ev]1 at ! same p]iods ! great] numb] are ( gold4 ,! objects belong+ to ! ,royal ,iri% ,academy 9 ! ,dubl9 ,museum--p]haps ! l>ge/ collection 9 ,europe ( prehi/oric gold ornam5ts--repres5t m]ely a fraction ( :at1 dur+ ! la/ few hundr$ ye>s1 has be5 discov]$ & consign$ to ! crucible4 ,usually describ$ z head-ornam5ts are c]ta9 cresc5t or moon-%ap$ plates ( ?9 gold1 g5]ally decorat$ ) engrav$ designs 9 p>allel l9es1 ) angul> l9es betwe5 !m1 & hav+ _! extremities =m$ into small flat circul> discs4 ,^! gold lunettes or lunul are consid]$ to h be5 worn upright on ! head & held 9 position by ! t]m9al plates set beh9d ! e>s1#g b !y 7 v probably worn r\nd ! neck4 ,! f9e/ at ,dubl9 is ( pure gold1 weigh+ upw>ds ( sixte5 ounces1 & is ri*ly ornam5t$ ) r[s ( conical /uds4 #g ,wilde 7,w4 ,r471 ,cat4 ( antiquities ( gold1 p4 #ab4 ,torques are ! mo/ frequ5t ( anci5t ,iri% ornam5ts4 ,! l>ge/ kn[n1 ov] #e feet long & upw>ds ( #bg ounces 9 weight1 is suppos$ to h be5 worn ov] ! %\ld] & across ! brea/4 ,x is ! prop]ty ( ! ,royal ,iri% ,academy4 ,9 addition to torques & gorgets1 neck-ornam5ts 7 also =m$ ( beads ( gold1 & "s ( ^! h be5 f\nd accompani$ by beads ( amb]4 ,besides torque-%ap$ armlets1 are bracelets compos$ ( p]fect r+s2 b ! p5annul> type1 t]m9at+ mo/ly ) bulb\s or cup-l ends1 is commone/4 ,a consid]able numb] ( ! prehi/oric dress-fa/5]s1 kn[n z mammill>y fibul1 h be5 discov]$ 9 ,irel&4 ,a slight enl>gem5t ( ! ends ( ! p5annul> r+ develops into a cup-l expansion1 :i* increases to su* a size t ! r+ becomes simply ! connect+ l9k betwe5 ! t]m9ations4 ,! latt] :5 flat are g5]ally pla91 & :5 cup-%ap$ are (t5 highly ornam5t$4 ,! f9e/ ( ^! fibul at ,dubl9 is #h-c_/h in*es long1 & is ( ! extraord9>y weight ( #cc ounces4 ,among o!r gold ornam5ts are c]ta9 circul> flat plates ( ?9 gold1 usually ab\t #b in*es 9 diamet]1 some:at simil> to ! plates discov]$ at ,myc51 9 t !y 7 evid5tly employ$ = sew+ ^u ! dress4 ,9 ! middle ( ! plates are small holes z if = atta*m5t4 ,z reg>ds r+-money1 & simil> r+s employ$ possibly z ornam5ts = ! e>s or f+]s1 no?+ m ne$ be said1 z !y usually foll[ ! designs ( ^? 9 use among ! ,celts ( ,brita94 ,9 a c\ntry l ,irel&1 :i* is fam$ = its gold5 treasures1 _m /range /ories ( discov]ies h be5 record$1 yet few h excit$ great] int]e/ ?an ! n[ fam\s ,limavady treasure1 :i* 9 ! ye> #ahif 0 pl\gh$ up at ,broight]1 ne> ,limavady1 9 ! c\nty ( ,londond]ry1 9 a field n f> f ! %ores ( ,l\gh ,foyle4 ,?is ho>d--probably ! mo/ important :i* has ev] be5 une>!d ( objects ( ?is p]iod--has be5 fully describ$ by ,dr4 ,a4 ,j4 ,evans 9 ,vol4 ,,lv ( ,ar*ologia4 ,x includes ! foll[+ p]sonal ornam5ts3 two gold *a9s1 a torque =m$ ( ?ick twi/$ wires1 & coll> ( v rem>kable workman%ip4 ,?is coll> consi/s ( a holl[ cyl9d] =m$ ( two plates sold]$ toge!r1 & fa/5$ at ! end by a ,t-%ap$ projection & slot4 ,! ornam5t is rep\ss "w1 9 ! trumpet patt]n ( ! ,late ,celtic p]iod4 ,! /yle ( "w ^u ^! ornam5ts1 p>ticul>ly t ( ! coll>1 associates !m ) an arti/ic p]iod :i* probably dates f ! fir/ c5tury ,a4,d4 ,! ye> foll[+ its discov]y ! :ole f9d 0 pur*as$ by ! ,briti% ,museum1 :]e its pres5ce at once figur$ z ano!r inju/ice to ,irel&2 :ile ?r\gh ! ,press & 9 ,p>liam5t num]\s attempts 7 made to obta9 its removal to ,dubl94 ,! ,iri% claim$ x z treasure-trove & ma9ta9$ t its legal home 0 ! ,national ,museum at ,dubl94 ,! ,briti% ,museum au?orities repli$ t ,dubl9 _h miss$ an opportunity ( obta9+ x 9 op5 m>ket1 :ile !y !mselves1 hav+ acquir$ x 9 ! ord9>y c\rse ( bus9ess1 7 preclud$ by /atute f p>t+ ) x4 ,!y fur!r cont5d$ t ! ornam5ts 7 n necess>ily ( ,iri% workman%ip1 b might ) equal likelihood h be5 produc$ 9 ,brita94 ,?us = sev]al ye>s ! dispute dragg$ on1 until 9 ! summ] ( #aijc ! case came up 9 ! ,*anc]y ,division ( ! ,c\rts ( ,law 7,attorney-,g5]al v4 ,tru/ees ( ,briti% ,museum4 ,! ,times ,law ,reports1 ,,xix1 p4 #eee47 ,not)/&+ ! +5i\s def5ce ( ! ,briti% ,museum1 judgm5t 0 giv5 t ! ornam5ts 7 treasure-trove1 & by virtue ( ! ,pr]ogative ,royal mu/ be surr5d]$ to ! ,k+4 ,!y 7 accord+ly deliv]$ to ! ,cr[n au?orities & pres5t$ to ! ,iri% ,national ,museum by ,8 ,maje/y4 ,,romano-,,briti% ,:atev] races settl$ "u ! bann] ( ,rome1 !y accept$ unres]v$ly its ornam5ts1 dress & mann]s1 z well z its language & its laws4 ,h5ce ! jewell]y :i* dates f ! ,roman occupation ( ,brita9 7i4e4 f ab\t #dc ,a4,d4 to ab\t #daj ,a4,d47 foll[s = ! mo/ "p ! ,italian designs1 & at ! same "t diff]s b little f t br\ght to light among ! rema9s ( ,roman colonisation else:]e4 ,! majority ( ,romano-,briti% p]sonal ornam5ts are ( bronze--9 mo/ cases probably once gilt4 ,comp>atively few objects ( gold h be5 f\nd4 ,among ! articles ( female adornm5t t occur 9 ! greate/ abundance are p9s1 :i* 7 us$ = fix+ ! hair 9 a knot beh9d ! head1 ?\gh "s may h be5 employ$ z dress-p9s4 ,!y range f #c to #i in*es 9 l5g?1 & h heads ( v>i\s designs1 t]m9at+ 9 "s in/ances 9 a bu/ or 9 a figure4 ,! majority are ( bone1 _m are ( bronze1 & a few are compos$ ( col\r$ glass or jet4 ,a few necklaces ( gold & bronze h be5 f\nd1 b by f> ! great] numb] appe> to h be5 compos$ ( beads ( glass--9 ! manufacture ( :i* ! ,romans display$ rem>kable skill4 ,^! necklaces diff] consid]ably 9 =m & col\r4 ,! commone/ beads are sph]ical & pi]c$ ) a l>ge hole4 ,!y are usually ( "o col\r1 g5]ally blue1 b "s are ( comp\nd col\rs exquisitely bl5d$1 & a few h a s]p5t9e ornam5t fus$ into ! glass4 ,beads ( amb]1 pe>ls1 & glaz$ e>!nw>e h also be5 f\nd4 ,a *>act]i/ic ( ,roman jewels execut$ 9 ,brita9 is _! ornam5tation ) enamels4 ,! metal employ$ is g5]ally bronze1 ! surface ( :i* is ornam5t$ by ! *amplev process2 t is to say1 x is incis$ or groov$ out 7?\gh sometimes /amp$ or ca/7 9 su* a mann] z to leave floral or geometrical patt]ns 9 relief1 & into ! sunk spaces ?us =m$ are fus$ opaque enamels1 pr9cipally r$1 yell[1 gre51 blue1 & :ite4 ,?is enamell+ is g5]ally f\nd ^u broo*es bo? ( ! circul> & ( ! b[-%ap$ type4 ,! fronts ( ! circul> broo*es are flat1 or rais$ l a %ield into sev]al comp>tm5ts ( diff]5t col\rs4 ,! p91 :i* is hidd51 moves freely on a pivot1 & its po9t is held by a cat*4 ,! f9e/ specim51 discov]$ 9 ,london1 0 =m]ly 9 ! collection ( ,"l ,ha/+s1 f :om x 0 acquir$ by ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,x is a circul> flat plaque1 ! patt]n on :i* consi/s ( f\r quatrefoils ) blue c5tres on a r$ gr\nd1 & f\r small circles ( yell[ enamel betwe5 !m4 ,9 ! c5tre is ! revolv+ figure ( a dolph9 7,pl4 ,,xi1 #g74 ,broo*es enamell$ 9 a some:at simil> mann] h be5 f\nd 9 ,france at ,mont ,beuvray1 ne> ,autun1 & are pres]v$ 9 ! ,muse des ,antiquits ,nationales at ,/4 ,g]ma94#h #h ,bulliot 7,j4 ,g471 ,f\illes de ,mont ,beuvray 7anci5ne ,bibracte7 de #ahfg #ahie4 #ahii4 ,q diff]5t are c]ta9 ornam5ts set ) slices cut f rods ( millefiori glass1 :i* 7 execut$ = ! mo/ "p dur+ ! decl9e ( ! ,roman p[]4 ,"o ( ! mo/ elaborate is a broo* f\nd at ,pont-y-,saison1 ne> ,*ep/[1 ,monm\?%ire1 9 #ahfa1 & pres]v$ among o!r ,romano-,briti% antiquities 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,x has an elaborate patt]n ( *equ]$ squ>es ( r$1 :ite1 & blue 7,pl4 ,,xi1 #f74 ,broo*es ( ! ,gallo-,roman & e>ly ,m]ov+ian p]iod appe> to h be5 also decorat$ 9 ?is mann]4 ,( b[-%ap$ broo*es1 or fibul1 !re exi/s a consid]able numb] ( v>ieties4 ,among ^! we may di/+ui% ! ,t-%ap$ fibula ) long cyl9drical head1 & a wide flat b[ ) sunk designs fill$ ) enamel4 ,9 ano!r v>iety ! b[ passes ?r\gh a horizontal disc 9 its c5tre & assumes a =m resembl+ a tassel4 ,ano!r common v>iety is ! crossb[ =m1 ei!r ) a spiral or h+$ head4 ,9 _m ,roman fibul ! p9 works on a h+e1 b 9 ! v>iety kn[n z ! h>p-%ap$1 ! %ea? ( ! p9 is fill$ 9 ) a triangul> plate1 pi]c$ or solid1 & ! head is slightly exp&$ to suit ! coils ( a spr+4 ,9 addition to ! m =mal types ( broo*es1 _m fancy devices1 probably ( ,celtic orig91 appe> to h be5 9 vogue among ! ,roman coloni/s ( ,great ,brita94 ,^! are 9 ! %ape ( birds1 fi%1 & all k9ds ( animals1 brilliant ) v>i\s col\r$ enamels1 :i* are (t5 s dispos$ z to indicate ! spots or m>k+s ( ! animals4 ,a rem>kable s]ies ( broo*es ( ?is k9d is 9 ! possession ( ,sir ,john ,evans4 ,bracelets & armlets1 usually ( bronze1 h surviv$ 9 l>ge numb]s4 ,!y consi/ g5]ally ( a simple n>r[ r+1 su* z c\ld be slipp$ ov] ! wri/4 ,"s are p5nanul> ) tap]+ ends1 o!rs are clos$ ) a hook & eye1 :ile a few h _! ends s twi/$ toge!r t !y c slide ov] "o ano!r & s be tak5 on & (f4 ,armlets ( glass1 *iefly ( a deep transp>5t blue1 h also be5 f\nd4 ,mo/ ( ! v>ieties ( f+] r+s already record$ appe> to h be5 worn 9 ,brita94 ,! ext5t ( ! ,roman civilisation c be measur$ by ! numb] ( engrav$ /ones enclos$ 9 _! sett+s or f\nd ap>t1 ! majority ( :i* mu/ h be5 execut$ by lapid>ies on ! spot4 ,_m articles1 su* z r+s1 armlets1 beads1 buttons1 & amulets1 7 =m$ ( jet or ,kimm]idge %ale1 turn$ on a la!4 ,9 ! ,isl& ( ,purbeck r\nd flat pieces ( jet h be5 f\nd pi]c$ ) holes1 :i* are cle>ly refuse pieces ( ! turn]--! nuclei ( r+s & o!r articles4 ,?is mat]ial appe>s to be ! same z t t]m$ by ,pl9y gigates4 ,accord+ to him1 x 0 suppos$ to possess ! virtue ( driv+ away s]p5ts2 & p]sonal ornam5ts made ( x 7 p>ticul>ly priz$4 ,!re seems little d\bt t ! use ( ornam5ts ( ,kimm]idge coal or %ale by ! ,romano-,britons 0 no?+ m ?an a survival ( ! ,neoli?ic or ,/one ,age4 ,great ,brita91 writes ,m4 ,font5ay 9 #ahhg1 ) ref]5ce to ! anci5t practice ( we>+ ornam5ts ( jet1 rema9s fai?ful to its e>ly cu/oms2 = at ! pres5t day ,engli% ladies delight 9 adorn+ !mselves ) jet jewell]y4 ,fa%ion *anges rapidly1 b x w be long1 "o hopes1 be=e x aga9 decrees ! g5]al use ( ornam5ts ( ?is unattractive mat]ial4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,b>b>ic ,,jewell]y ,,( ,,europe 7,,! ,,great ,,migrations7 ,dur+ ! p]iod ( ! great migrations1 :5 hordes ( b>b>ians swept l waves across ,europe ov] ! tracks ( ,roman civilisation1 all traces ( classical art rapidly vani%$1 save 9 ,con/ant9ople1 :i* rema9$1 z x 71 a corn] ( ! antique _w4 ,! =ms ( classical jewell]y 9 natural c\rse ei!r totally disappe>$ or und]w5t a complete trans=mation1 & !re appe>$ in/ead a new process = ! decoration ( p]sonal ornam5t1 :i* 9 e>li] times 0 practically unkn[n1 save to ! goldsmi?s ( anci5t ,egypt4 ,j z ! desire to imitate preci\s /ones l$ to ! introduction ( enamel1 s ! ,go?ic nations :o hail$ f ! s\?-ea/ corn] ( ,europe br\ght into jewell]y ! ,ori5tal love = col\r4 ,col\r$ /ones1 usually g>nets1 or r$ glass1 cut 9 slices1 7 inlaid on a metal surface1 or 7 plac$ side by side1 sep>at$ only by int]v5+ /rips ( metal4 ,?is process ( inlay or incru/ation is ( great importance1 s9ce almo/ e species ( jewell]y 9 ,europe f ! ?ird till ab\t ! eigh? c5tury is ?us decorat$4 ,! ,go?s inv5t$ no new jewell]y1 b adapt$ a /yle :i* _h long be5 9 exi/5ce4 ,& ?\gh ! =ms ( _! jewell]y may be due to ! gr[? ( local traditions1 its decoration is cle>ly ! result ( influ5ces connect$ 9 "s way ) ! ,ea/4 ,orig9at+1 z x d\btless did1 9 ,p]sia or 9 ! fur!r ,ea/1 ?is process ( inlay 0 adopt$ by ! ,go?ic nations dur+ ! e>li] c5turies ( ! ,*ri/ian era1 & made its fir/ appe>ance among !m 9 ! di/ricts ( ! ,caucasus & 9 ! ,crimea4 ,f !nce x pass$ to ! ,lomb>ds 9 ,italy1 to ! ,burgundians 9 ,au/ria & ,switz]l&1 ! ,visigo?s 9 ,spa91 ! ,m]ov+ians 9 ,gaul1 ! e>li] ,sc&9avians 9 ,d5m>k2 & by ! ,saxon tribes 9 ,nor!rn ,g]many x 0 c>ri$ to ,engl&1 :]e x atta9$ its highe/ p]fection 9 ! sup]b circul> broo*es t h be5 br\ght to light 9 ,k5t4 ,by ! discov]y ( specim5s ( ,asiatic & ,g]manic jewell]y ornam5t$ 9 ?is mann]1 ! pa? ( ! migratory tribes c ?us be trac$ "r across ! ,cont95t4 ,yet = ! reason t conditions ( prop]ty & nationality became alt]$ f "o g5]ation to ano!r1 ! "q to :i* ( ! nations num]\s pieces ( jewell]y are to be ascrib$1 is difficult to solve4 ,!y are (t5 connect$ ) misund]/ood ,hell5i/ic & ,asiatic traditions1 :ile at ! same "t %[+ workman%ip ) b>b>ic ideas ( =m4 ,!re are1 z has be5 po9t$ out1#i two v di/9ct =ms ( inlay1 "o ( :i* is possibly ! outcome ( ! o!r4 ,"o has be5 t]m$ plate inlay+1 ! o!r cloisonn inlay+4 ,! fir/ is repres5t$ 9 ! ea/ ( ,europe by ! fibul & gorget 9 ! celebrat$ treasure ( ,petrossa1 & 9 ! we/ by ! cr[n ( ,sv9?ila 9 ! equally fam\s treasure ( ,gu>raz>4 ,9 ^! objects a gold plate is pi]c$1 & into ! holes ?us =m$ /ones are fix$ by ma/ic1 & support$ f beh9d by a second plate ( gold4 ,?is =m ( inlay+ seems to m]ge naturally into ! o!r1 = at a c]ta9 po9t x may h occurr$ to ! goldsmi? to ab&on ! cont9u\s upp] %eet ( metal & to cut x into /rips to be plac$ edgewise betwe5 ! /ones4 ,?us appe>$ ! second =m ( inlay+1 9 ! cloisonn mann]4 ,x is repres5t$ 9 its j\rney f ! ,ea/ by ! ,oxus treasure4 ,9 ,europe x is illu/rat$ by num]\s specim5s ( ,teutonic jewell]y f ,s\!rn ,europe1 by ! ornam5ts discov]$ 9 ! tomb ( ,*ild]ic ,i1 & f9ally by ! spl5did ,anglo-,saxon jewell]y f ! ,k5ti% cemet]ies4 ,numb]s ( articles ( jewell]y dat+ f ! fif? c5tury until ! g5]al introduction ( ,*ri/ianity h be5 discov]$ 9 v>i\s localities 9 ,europe4 ,b ! above-m5tion$ ho>ds ( treasure dem& special consid]ation1 z be+1 n only ! mo/ *>act]i/ic examples ( ! me?ods ( inlay1 b also types ( ! utmo/ luxury ( ! p]iod 9 ! way ( p]sonal ornam5ts4 ,beyond ^! no g5]al acc\nt ( ,european jewell]y ne$ "h be giv51 s9ce excavations 9 ! ,anglo-,saxon graves h reveal$ examples ( jewell]y :i* may be tak5 z fairly repres5tative ( ! articles !n 9 use ^u ! ,cont95t z well4 #i ,ar*ologia1 ,,lviii1 p4 #bdj1 #aijb4 ,a description may n[ be giv5 ( "s ( ! pr9cipal & mo/ typical ( ^! ,european treasure-ho>ds1 dat+ f :at are kn[n z ! ,d>k ,ages4 ,b att5tion mu/ fir/ be drawn to ! important ,asiatic treasure f\nd ne> ! ,riv] ,oxus1 9 ,bactria1 9 #ahgg4 ,?is ,oxus treasure1#aj belong+ = ! mo/ "p to ! f\r? c5tury ,b4,c41 seems to supply ! miss+ l9k 9 ! *a9 ( evid5ce :i* unites ! ornam5tation ( ,european jewell]y ) cle>ly def9$ ,ori5tal me?ods4 ,! *ief articles ( jewell]y 9 ! ho>d are two massive p5annul> bracelets ( gold1 "o 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 ! o!r at ,s\? ,k5s+ton4 ,!y are ornam5t$ at ea* end ) a w+$ mon/] or gryphon 9 full relief4 ,! surface ( ! w+s & necks ( ! figures is cov]$ ) gold cloisons1 once set ) col\r$ /ones or pa/es4 ,! =m & decoration ( ^! & ! o!r articles ( ! treasure 9 ! ,franks ,beque/ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum seem to indicate ! ,p]sian orig9 ( ?is inlaid "w4 #aj ,dalton 7,o4 ,m471 ,! treasure ( ! ,oxus1 #aije4 ,! treasure ( ,petrossa1 dat+ f ! f\r? c5tury ,a4,d41 conta9s "s ( ! e>lie/ examples ( inlaid jewell]y 9 ,europe4 ,few treasures ( :i* record has be5 pres]v$ are equal to x 9 ar*ological int]e/4 ,x 0 discov]$ 9 #ahcg by peasants on ! banks ( a tribut>y ( ! ,danube1 ne> ! village ( ,petrossa1 ab\t sixty miles f ,bu*>e/4 ,mu* ( x 0 brok5 up %ortly aft] its discov]y4 ,:at rema9$ 0 seiz$ by ! ,gov]nm5t & convey$ to ! ,museum ( ,antiquities at ,bu*>e/1 :]e x is n[ pres]v$4 ,! treasure includes a gold torque ) hook$ ends1 l ! ,celtic torques f ! ,briti% ,isles2 a cresc5t-%ap$ coll> or gorget ( gold ) its surface pi]c$ 9 ! mann] ( plate inlay1 & set ) g>nets & o!r /ones2 ?ree bird-%ap$ fibul2 & a l>g] ornam5t1 also 9 ! %ape ( a bird1 int5d$ probably z a brea/-plate4 ,! heads & necks ( ! birds are inlaid 9 ! cloisonn mann]2 _! l[] p>ts are ornam5t$ ) plate inlay4#aa #aa ,a rem>kable book descriptive ( ?is treasure has be5 publi%$ by ,pr(essor ,odobesco1 ( ! ,univ]sity ( ,bu*>e/1 9 :i* ! :ole process ( inlay+ is discuss$ at consid]able l5g?4 ,! same subject has be5 treat$ ) ! mo/ m9ute c>e by ! well-kn[n art hi/orian1 ,m4 ,*>les de ,l9as4 ,dat+ f ! ,m]ov+ian p]iod are ! treasures ( ,k+ ,*ild]ic ,i 9 ! ,biblio?que ,nationale at ,p>is4 ,! f\nd] ( ! ,m]ov+ian dyna/y di$ 9 #dha1 & 0 buri$ at ,t\rnai1 9 ,langu$oc1 surr\nd$ by 8 treasures & robes ( /ate4 ,9 ! ye> #afec1 :5 all memory ( ! place ( 8 int]m5t _h p]i%$1 a lab\r] accid5tally uncov]$ ! royal grave & br\ght to light ! treasure x conta9$4 ,! regalia consi/$ ( a sword1 a bracelet1 fibul1 buckles1 ab\t ?ree hundr$ gold bees--! decoration ( a mantle--& a signet-r+ ( gold4 ,?is r+ 0 n set ) a gem1 b _h its oval gold bezel engrav$ ) a full-fac$ bu/ hold+ a spe>4 ,x bore ! leg5d ,,*ildirici ,,regis4 ,on ! night ( ,novemb] #e1 #ahca1 ! ,biblio?que 0 brok5 into by burgl>s4 ,an al>m be+ giv51 !y fl$1 & ?rew _! spoil1 :i* includ$1 among/ o!r objects1 ,*ild]ic's regalia1 into ! ,se9e4 ,! riv] 0 dr$g$1 & a great "p ( ! treasure 0 recov]$4 ,! r+1 h[ev]1 0 nev] f\nd2 b its design is pres]v$ 9 ,*iflet's ,ana/asis ,*ild]ici ,i1 :ile ! signet itself has be5 recon/ruct$ f an impression ( ! seal 9 wax1 f\nd 9 ! ,bodleian ,libr>y 9 a copy ( ,*iflet's "w1 once ! prop]ty ( ! great antiqu>y1 ,francis ,d\ce4 ,except on ?is jewel1 ! traditional surface decoration ( ,teutonic jewell]y is admirably repres5t$4 ,e item ( ! treasure is inlaid ) ?9 slices ( g>net or r$ glass1 arrang$ 9 ! cloisonn mann] betwe5 gold p>titions4#ab #ab ,abb ,co*et1 ,le tombeau de ,*ildric ,ier1 #ahei4 ,! mo/ wond]ful1 probably1 ( all treasures-trove is ! fam\s treasure ( ,gu>raz>1 discov]$ 9 #aheh at a place call$ ,la ,fu5te de ,gu>raz>1 ne> ,tol$o4#ac ,x includ$ elev5 cr[ns ( pure gold set ) preci\s /ones4 ,! peasants :o une>!d ! treasure broke up ! cr[ns & divid$ ! spoil4 ,b ! /ory ( ! discov]y became kn[n2 & hav+ be5 piec$ toge!r1 mo/ ( ! cr[ns 7 convey$ to ! ,muse ,cluny at ,p>is1 & ! rema9d] plac$ 9 ! ,real ,arm]a at ,madrid4 ,! mo/ important ( ^? at ,madrid is ! cr[n ( ,k+ ,sv9?ila 7#fba-fca74 ,its surface is pi]c$ ) holes arrang$ 9 rose-%ap$ patt]ns1 & set ) l>ge pe>ls & cabo*on sapphires4 ,f ! l[] rim hangs a fr+e ( lett]s set 9 ! cloisonn mann] ) r$ glass pa/e1 susp5d$ by *a9s4 ,! lett]s =m ! inscription ,,sv9tilanus ,,rex ,,(f]et4 ,! *ief cr[n 9 ! treasure at ,p>is is t ( ,k+ ,reccesv9?us 7#fdi-fgb74 ,x consi/s ( a broad circle ( gold1 #h in*es 9 diamet]1 m\nt$ ) ?irty huge ,ori5tal pe>ls & ?irty l>ge sapphires1 all set 9 high collets & sep>at$ by pi]c$ op5-"w4 ,! m>g9s are b&s ( cloisonn "w ) inlays ( r$ glass4 ,susp5d$ bel[ by tw5ty-f\r *a9s are lett]s ( gold inlaid l ! bord]s =m+ ! words ,symbol3 cross patte ,,reccesv9?us ,,rex ,,(f]et4 ,atta*$ to ea* lett] is a squ>e collet hung ) a pe>-%ap$ sapphire4 ,! cr[n is susp5d$ by f\r *a9s f a foliat$ ornam5t encircl$ ) p5d5t pe>ls & sapphires1 & surm\nt$ by a capital ( rock cry/al4 ,a massive cross #d in*es long & #b in*es wide hangs bel[ ! cr[n4 ,x is set ) eight enorm\s pe>ls & six l>ge & brilliant sapphires1 ! latt] m\nt$ 9 high op5 bezels4 ,f its foot & limbs hang ?ree pa/e imitations ( em]alds1 ) pe>-%ap$ sapphires bel[4 ,! comb9ation ( ! pure gold ) ! violet sapphires & ! some:at fad$ lu/re ( ! pe>ls produces an exce$+ly h>moni\s effect ( col\r4 #ac ,la/eyrie 7,f4 de71 ,description du trsor de ,gu>raz>1 #ahfj4 ,! majority ( ^! cr[ns 7 votive (f]+s to a *ur*1 to be hung above ! alt>2 ! l>g] ones may h be5 actually us$ at coronations1 & aft]w>ds susp5d$ 9 "s consecrat$ build+ & ! d$icatory inscriptions atta*$ 9 remembrance ( ! c]emony4 ,!y c]ta9ly appe> to be native "w ( ! ,spani% ,visigo?s1 execut$ "u ! influ5ce ( ! /yle prevail+ 9 ! ,ea/]n ,empire4 ,at a date n long aft] _! production1 ! use ( ?is p>ticul> species ( decoration ( jewell]y1 ow+ probably to ! revival ( ! art ( enamell+1 rapidly decl9$ 9 we/]n ,europe2 & ?\gh x cont9u$ to be practis$ 9 ! ,ea/1 x _h virtually disappe>$ at ! close ( ! ,m]ov+ian p]iod--by ab\t ! ye> #hjj1 :5 ,*>lemagne 0 cr[n$ ,emp]or ( ! ,we/4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,anglo-,,saxon ,,jewell]y 7,,fif? ,,to ,,sev5? ,,c5tury7--,,m]ov+ian ,,jewell]y ,^u ! invasion ( ,brita9 by ! ,teutonic races 9 ! fif? c5tury p]sonal ornam5ts lo/ _! ,roman "*1 & assum$ a peculi> type :i* betrays ! impress ( a fre% nationality on design & workman%ip4 ,a ne> alliance by orig9 & geographical position exi/$ betwe5 ! ,jutes1 ,angles1 & o!r k9dr$ tribes commonly kn[n z ! ,saxons1 :o settl$ 9 ,brita91 & ! ,franks1 :o /ation$ !mselves 9 ,gaul4 ,! ornam5ts ( all ^! tribes be> on ?is acc\nt a close simil>ity4 ,h5ce ,anglo-,saxon jewels may = ! mo/ "p be tak5 z repres5tative ( all ! re/2 & ! only contempor>y ,m]ov+ian ornam5ts to be notic$ w be ^? t diff] f ! ,anglo-,saxon types4 ,9 ,engl& z well z 9 ,france ?is rem>kable gr\p ( jewell]y belongs to ! p]iod :i* imm$iately foll[$ ! ext9ction ( ! ,roman p[] 9 bo? c\ntries1 & ext5ds f ! fif? to ! middle ( ! sev5? c5tury4 ,p]sonal ornam5ts 9 ,engl& 7 ! la/ 9 ,europe to receive a *>act]i/ic species ( surface decoration3 = ,k5t & ! ,isle ( ,wight =m ! extreme limit ( ! geographical area 9 :i* jewell]y ornam5t$ ) cloisonn inlay has be5 f\nd4 ,! process atta9$ "h ! highe/ po9t ( excell5ce4 ,anglo-,saxon jewell]y occupies an exce$+ly important position 9 ! hi/ory ( ! goldsmi?'s art4 ,its beauty lies 9 its delicate goldwork & peculi>ly h>moni\s bl5d+ ( col\rs4 ,s rem>kable is ! f]tility ( fancy ) :i* ea* jewel is adorn$1 t sc>cely any two are exactly id5tical 9 ornam5tation4 ,h[ev] complicat$ ! sy/em ( knotwork1 & h[ev] frequ5tly ! same =m might require fill+ 91 ea* workman appe>s to h be5 eag] to express 8 own individuality1 & to orig9ate "s fre% me?od ( treatm5t or new v>iety ( design4 ,9 common ) o!r ,teutonic nations1 ! ,anglo-,saxons 7 peculi>ly fond ( p]sonal ornam5ts4 ,!y held 9 high e/eem bo? ! smi?--! produc] ( weapons--& ! goldsmi? :o manufactur$ ! r+s & bracelets employ$ z rew>ds ( val\r4 ,a passage 9 ! ,exet] ,book1 :i* dilates on ! v>i\s /ations 9 life & ! capacities requir$ = !m1 ref]s ?us to ! goldsmi?3 ,= "o a wondr\s skill 9 goldsmi?'s art is provid$3 full (t he decorates & well adorns a p[]ful k+'s nobles1 & he to him gives broad l& 9 recomp5se4 ,! graves or b>r[s ( our ,anglo-,saxon ance/ors h prov$ s+ul>ly prolific 9 p]sonal ornam5ts4 ,ext5sive cemet]ies h be5 discov]$ 9 ! midl&1 ea/]n & s\!rn c\nties1 & p>ticul>ly ^u ! d[ns ( ,k5t1 ,sussex1 & ! ,isle ( ,wight4 ,! b>r[s ( ,k5t h reveal$ p]sonal ornam5ts ( great] weal? & ref9em5t ?an ^? ( any o!r p>ts4 ,! majority ( ,anglo-,saxon p9s 7 no d\bt employ$ = fa/5+ up ! hair4 ,!y (t5 h z a head ! figure ( a bird or grotesque animal1 ornam5t$ ) g>nets1 l simil> p9s f ! ,cont95t4 ,"o ( ! be/1 :i* comes f ! ,fav]%am graves 9 ,k5t1 is 9 ! ,gibbs ,beque/1 n[ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,x is ( silv]1 =m]ly gilt2 its upp] "p is flat & 9 ! =m ( a bird set ) cut g>nets4 ,go?ic tribes _h a great pr$ilection = ! bird z a decorative subject4#ad #ad ,de ,baye 7,j471 ,! indu/rial arts ( ! ,anglo-,saxons1 p4 #de4 ,a c]ta9 numb] ( e>r+s h be5 f\nd1 b !y are n common4 ,!y are g5]ally a r+ ( silv] wire1 pla91 or twi/$ into a spiral =m1 & hung sometimes ) beads ( col\r$ glass or clay4 ,! e>r+s worn by ! ,franks dur+ ! contempor>y ,m]ov+ian p]iod are ( a type unrepres5t$ 9 ,anglo-,saxon jewell]y4 ,!y diff] 9 size1 b are ne>ly all ( ! same patt]n1 & h a pla9 hoop4 ,"o end is po9t$ to pi]ce ! e>1 & on ! o!r end is a polygonal metal cube1 ea* side ( :i* is set ) a slice ( g>net or r$ glass4 ,anglo-,saxon necklaces are compos$ ( beads ( _m v>ieties4 ,! commone/1 ( glass1 ( num]\s col\rs & %apes1 are v simil> to ! ,roman beads4 ,beads ( ame?y/9e qu>tz1 probably ( ,transylvanian or ,g]man orig91 & p>ticul>ly beads ( amb] f ! ,baltic1 are f\nd /rung on necklaces1 or 7 hung s+ly f ! neck4 ,:5 "o rememb]s ! sup]/iti\s respect :i* 0 univ]sally paid to preci\s /ones1 & especially to amb]1 9 e>ly times1 x is probable t ^! 7 reg>d$ z amulets4 ,! m sumptu\s necklaces1 :i* mu/ h be5 worn by ladies ( rank1 are compos$ ( gold beads or ( preci\s /ones 9 delicate sett+s ( twi/$ or bead$ gold4 ,! p5d5t ornam5ts hung to ! necklaces are v beautiful4 ,"s are =m$ ( l>ge1 f9ely col\r$ g>nets cut into triangle or pe> %apes & m\nt$ 9 gold4 ,o!rs1 g5]ally circul>1 are ( pure gold work$ 9 int]lac$ or v]miculat$ patt]ns & set ) preci\s /ones4 ,a /rik+ gr\p ( p5dants is =m$ ( co9s ( =eign orig91 ,roman or ,byzant9e1 or rude copies ( !m made 9 ,engl& by ,anglo-,saxon goldsmi?s4 ,9 ! ,briti% ,museum is an elaborate necklace ( glass & t]ra-cotta beads ) p5d5t gold co9s ( ! sev5? c5tury1 :i* 0 f\nd1 toge!r ) a spl5did broo*1 at ,s>re1 9 ,k5t4 ,?ree ( ! p5dants are co9s ( ,emp]ors ( ! ,ea/--,mauricius & ,h]aclius--& ! f\r? is a co9 ( ,*lotaire ,,ii ( ,france4 ,! c5tral p5dant1 also circul>1 is ornam5t$ ) a section f a rod ( ,roman millefiori glass set 9 gold4 ,besides co9s--! frequ5t use ( :i* 9 late ,roman jewell]y has already be5 notic$--!re exi/s a well-kn[n class ( p]sonal ornam5ts kn[n z nummi bracteati1 bracteate co9s1 & sometimes z spangle money4 ,!y are ?9 discs ( metal /amp$ 9 a die1 s t ! design appe>s 9 relief on ! face & incuse on ! back4 ,!y are g5]ally ( gold1 h a bead$ edg+1 & are suppli$ ) loops1 also ( gold1 = susp5sion4 ,fibul or broo*es are ! mo/ num]\s ( all ,anglo-,saxon ornam5ts4 ,!y are rem>kable bo? = _! beauty & _! excell5ce ( workman%ip4 ,probably m ?an "o 0 usually worn2 & f\r or five h be5 f\nd 9 ! same grave on diff]5t p>ts ( ! body4 ,! diff]5t types ( broo*es f v>i\s di/ricts ( ,engl& are suffici5tly cle>ly m>k$ to p]mit _! classification z ! ornam5ts ( di/9ct peoples4 ,= ! pres5t purpose x is conv5i5t to divide !m into ?ree ma9 classes1 ea* class consi/+1 naturally1 ( _m v>ieties4 7#a7 ,circul> jewell$ broo*es f\nd among ! rema9s ( ! ,k5ti% ,saxons1 & ( ! ,jutes ( ! ,isle ( ,wight4 7#b7 ,broo*es ( ! sunk or concave circul> type worn by ! ,saxons ( ,b]ks1 ,ox=d1 & ,gl\ce/]%ire4 7#c7 ,cruci=m broo*es--a type ( ! elongat$ =m ( broo*4 ,!y are peculi> to ! ,angles :o =m$ ! population ( ,m]cia1 ,ea/ ,anglia1 & ,nor?umbria4 7#a7 ,! circul> jewell$ broo*es f\nd 9 ! cemet]ies ( ,k5t & sometimes 9 ! ,isle ( ,wight1 b sc>cely ev] 9 o!r p>ts ( ,engl&1 may be subdivid$ aga9 into ?ree classes4 ,! fir/ ( ^!1 & ! mo/ num]\s1 is compos$ ( a s+le piece ( metal decorat$ ) *as$ "w & set ) jewels4 ,! second gr\p comprises ^? =m$ ( a disc ( bronze or silv]1 decorat$ ) a disc ( gold foil cov]$ ) inlaid cells =m+ triangles & circles1 ) ?ree bosses gr\p$ r\nd a c5tral boss4 ,?is type is r>] ?an ! fir/1 & is (t5 ( great beauty4 ,! ?ird gr\p1 ! f9e/ & r>e/1 is di/+ui%$ by be+ =m$ ( two plates ( metal jo9$ by a b& r\nd ! edges1 ! upp] "p be+ prep>$ 9 ! cloisonn mann] = ! reception ( /ones or pa/es1 :ile ! p9 or acus is fix$ to ! l[]4 ,broo*es ( ?is type1 9 :i* ! /ones1 mo/ly g>nets1 are set ^u hat*$ gold foil betwe5 delicate gold cloisons1 repres5t at its utmo/ p]fection ! process ( inlay+ already describ$4 ,?ree ( ! f9e/ circul> jewell$ broo*es are3 ! ,k+/on broo* 9 ! ,may] ,collection at ,liv]pool1 ! ,ab+don broo* 9 ! ,a%molean ,museum1 & ! ,s>re broo* 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,! fir/1 :i* is c]ta9ly ! mo/ beautiful1 is #c-c_/af in*es 9 diamet]4 ,! front is divid$ into comp>tm5ts subdivid$ into cells ( v>i\s =ms1 enri*$ ) v]micul> gold1 ) turquoises & ) g>nets laid ^u gold foil4 ,conc5tric circles :i* surr\nd a c5tral boss are treat$ alt]nately 9 col\r$ /ones & work$ gold4#ae ,! ,ab+don broo* is divid$ into f\r comp>tm5ts1 ea* decorat$ ) int]lac$ gold wire1 & m\nt$ ) a boss ( ivory1 horn or %ell1 ) a fif? boss 9 ! c5tre ( ! broo*4 ,! re/ ( ! gr\nd is decorat$ ) g>nets ^u hat*$ gold foil4#af ,! ,s>re broo*1 #b-e_/h in*es 9 wid?1 is ornam5t$ 9 a simil> mann]1 & has a l>ge c5tral & f\r small] bosses compos$ ( a sub/ance resembl+ ivory1 set ) c>buncles#ag 7,pl4 ,,xi1 #a74 #ae ,faussett 7,b471 ,inv5torium sepul*rale1 p4 #gh1 ,pl4 #a4 #af ,ar*4 ,j\rnal1 ,,iv1 p4 #bec4 ,ano!r simil> broo* f ,ab+don is 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,see ,ak]man 7,j4 ,y471 ,rema9s ( pagan ,saxondom1 ,pl4 iii4 #ag ,ar*ologia ,cantiana1 ,,ii1 ,pl4 iii4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xi ,,anglo-,,saxon ,,& ,,romano-,,briti% ,,broo*es1 ,,etc4 7#b7 ,! next ma9 class ( broo*es comprises ! concave circul>1 kn[n also z ! cupelli=m or sauc]-%ap$1 f\nd 9 ! ,we/ ,saxon cemet]ies4 ,!y are ( bronze or copp]1 ?ickly gilt1 & v r>ely decorat$ ) jewels4 ,!y h a pla9 edge1 & a c5tre cov]$ ) int]lac$ & o!r ornam5tal patt]ns4 7#c7 ,cruci=m broo*es =m ! la/ & mo/ widely di/ribut$ gr\p4 ,!y h trefoil or cruci=m tops2 b mu/ n be held to h any connection ) ,*ri/ianity because !y approa* ! =m ( a cross1 = !y are f\nd 9 purely pagan graves4 ,"s v>ieties are f\nd 9 o!r p>ts ( ,engl& besides ,m]cia1 ,ea/ ,anglia1 & ,nor?umbria1 b !y are r>e 9 ,k5t4 ,^! cruci=m ,anglian broo*es are ( ca/ bronze1 g5]ally gilt1 b sometimes plat$ ) silv]4 ,!y are (t5 ( enorm\s size1 & cov]$ ) rude & elaborate patt]ns su* z are f\nd ^u e>ly ,sc&9avian objects4 ,s9ce ! patt]ns 7 add$ aft] ! broo*es 7 ca/1 x happ5s t1 ?\gh =ms are frequ5tly id5tical1 decorations diff] on ne>ly e specim54 ,) ! r>e/ exception1 !y are nev] g>ni%$ ) preci\s /ones4 ,?is k9d ( broo* appe>s to h be5 evolv$ ab\t ! f\r? c5tury4 ,!re are o!r broo*es some:at ( ! same =m1 b n usually f\nd 9 ,engl&4 ,among/ ^! is a type :i*1 in/ead ( hav+ a trefoil ornam5t at ! top1 is squ>e-head$4 ,?\gh n unkn[n 9 ,france & ,g]many1 broo*es ( ?is design are *iefly ,sc&9avian4 ,an important s]ies ( bo? ( ! types la/ m5tion$ is pres]v$ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum2 :ile ! f9e collection belong+ to ,sir ,john ,evans conta9s _m spl5did specim5s4 ,ano!r v>iety is kn[n z ! radiat$ broo*1 f ! fact t its upp] "p1 :i* is rectangul> or semicircul>1 is ornam5t$ ) obtuse rays4 ,! f9e/ example ( ?is type1 & ! l>ge/ kn[n 7x measures #f in*es71 is 9 ! ,bav>ian ,national ,museum at ,muni*4 ,x dates f ab\t ! six? c5tury2 & 0 f\nd 9 a rock tomb ne> ,wittisl+5 on ! ,danube 9 #ahha4 ,x is silv]1 gilt ^u ! upp] side1 enri*$ ) a cloisonn inlay ( g>nets 9 a v>iety ( patt]ns1 & fur!r ornam5t$ ) int]lac$ gold filigree 7,pl4 ,,xii1 #g74 ,a ,lat9 inscription on ! "u side conta9s ! "n ,,uffila4 ,radiat$ broo*es1 :i* ,mr4 ,roa* ,smi?#ah consid]s to be prior 9 po9t ( date to all o!r ,anglo-,saxon types1 ext5d ov] ! great] "p ( ,europe4 ,b !y are r>e 9 ,engl&1 ?\gh a few h be5 f\nd 9 ,k5t & are pres]v$ among ! ,gibbs ,beque/4 #ah ,catalogue ( ,anglo-,saxon antiquities1 p4 xv4 ,!re is yet ano!r type ( ,anglo-,saxon broo*1 annul> 9 %ape4 ,x consi/s ( a pla9 r+1 ) a p9 travell+ r\nd x atta*$ to a small cyl9d]4 ,?is annul> broo* is comp>atively r>e 9 ,saxon times4 ,its int]e/ lies 9 ! fact t x is ! p>5t ( a mu* m important broo* worn ?r\gh\t ! ,middle ,ages4 ,9 common ) all primitive peoples1 ! ,saxons held r+s 9 less e/eem ?an o!r ornam5ts4 ,! few t h be5 f\nd are simple bronze hoops4 ,r+s 7 m frequ5t1 h[ev]1 among ! ,m]ov+ians4 ,! *ief feature 9 ,m]ov+ian r+s1 :i* are (t5 ( gold1 is t ! bezel is = ! mo/ "p l>ge & circul>4 ,x is ei!r r\ghly engrav$ 9 ! mann] ( ,*ild]ic's signet1 or else is ornam5t$ ) cloisonn inlay4 ,o!r r+s h a high project+ bezel4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xii ,,anglo-,,saxon ,,& ,,franki% ,,jewell]y 7#e,,?-#g,,? ,,c5turies7 ,buckles ( gold1 silv]1 & bronze1 us$ to fa/5 ! belt or girdle1 or employ$ on "s o!r "p ( ! dress1 are p>ticul>ly abundant 9 ,k5ti% graves4 ,!y v>y consid]ably1 _m be+ ( p>ticul>ly good design1 set ) g>nets & ornam5t$ ) gold filigree4 ,! l>ge/ examples c be assign$ to ! girdles ( m51 ! smalle/ & ri*e/ to ^? ( wom54 ,"s ( ! be/ are 9 ! ,gibbs ,beque/4 ,"o ( ! f9e/ examples ( ,anglo-,saxon jewell]y is ! magnific5t gold buckle discov]$ 9 a grave ne> ,tapl[1 ,bucks1 & n[ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,! base ( ! tongue & ! oval r+ are inlaid ) glass pa/es ^u gold foil2 :ile ! buckle plate1 enri*$ ) ?ree g>nets1 is bord]$ ) _m graduat$ r[s ( f9ely twi/$ gold wire1 & has its c5tre fill$ ) a sort ( v]miculat$ patt]n ^u rep\ss gr\nd 7,pl4 ,,xii1 #f74 ,wom5's graves h g5]ally yield$ a numb] ( objects ( p]sonal use z well z ( adornm5t4 ,articles ( toilet1 su* z tweez]s1 etc41 are f\nd by ! side ( ! skeleton1 & resemble ! mod]n *atela9e4 ,!re exi/1 9 addition1 curi\s bronze p5dants sometimes %ap$ l a pot-hook1 :i*1 f\nd 9 pairs ne> ! wai/s ( female skeletons1 are kn[n g5]ally z girdle-hang]s4 ,_! exact purpose 0 = a long "t a my/]y1 b ar*ologi/s are n[ mo/ly ( ! op9ion t !y 7 fa/5+s = bags or purses susp5d$ f ! girdle4 ,) ! exception ( ! broo*-p91 :i* is always made ( iron1 ,anglo-,saxon jewell]y is almo/ inv>iably compos$ ( gold1 silv]1 or ( "s alloy1 & is v r>ely ( iron l ! buckles f\nd 9 ! ,franki% cemet]ies4 ,^! iron buckles1 ow+ to ! p]i%able nature ( _! mat]ial are (t5 mu* disfigur$ by ru/1 b _m are suffici5tly well pres]v$ to exhibit a beautiful & elaborate inlay ( silv]1 sometimes accompani$ by gold4 ,_m examples ( !m are pres]v$ 9 ! museums ( ,france & ,g]many4 ,"s are ( extraord9>y size4 ,! buckle & plate alone ( "o 9 ! museum at ,b]ne measures no less ?an #h-e_/h by #d in*es & half an in* 9 ?ickness4 ,buckles ( ?is k9d h nev] be5 f\nd 9 ,engl&4 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,late ,,anglo-,,saxon ,,jewell]y 7,,sev5? ,,to ,,n9? ,,c5tury7 ,aft] ! l&+ ( ,/4 ,augu/9e 9 #eig & ! baptism ( ,e!lb]t1 ,k+ ( ,k5t1 ! conv]sion ( ! upp] classes 9 ,engl& appe>s to h be5 rapid1 & by ! ?ird decade ( ! sev5? c5tury ! great] "p ( ! c\ntry _h accept$ ,*ri/ianity4 ,old cu/oms1 h[ev]1 ) reg>d to burial & ! adornm5t ( ! corpse1 7 sl[ 9 disappe>+1 & ev5 z late z ! "t ( ,*>lemagne 7#gdb-had7 we he> ( ord]s be+ issu$ t ! ,saxons 7 no long] to foll[ ! pagan mode ( burial1 b to int] _! dead 9 consecrat$ gr\nd4 ,! g5]al ab&onm5t ( ! cu/om ( bury+ ornam5ts ) ! dead is responsible = ! small numb] ( ! lat] ,anglo-,saxon jewels n[ extant4 ,b ! few examples surviv+ f ! p]iod :i* t]m9at$ at ! ,norman ,conque/ are ( exceptional m]it4 ,!re c be no d\bt t ! introduction ( ,*ri/ianity produc$ a pr(\nd *ange 9 ! "* ( p]sonal ornam5ts4 ,new =ms & me?ods1 due to clos] association ) ! ,cont95t1 7 introduc$ into ! goldsmi?'s productions by ! ,*ur*1 :i* at ! same "t fo/]$ ! spl5did traditions ( ! old] ,engli% jewell]s4 ,! *>act]i/ic ( ! f9e/ pieces ( ,saxon jewell]y ( ! ,*ri/ian p]iod is _! ornam5tation by means ( cloisonn enamel4 ,x has already be5 notic$ t ,anglo-,saxon jewels 7 decorat$ ) gold wires1 "s twi/$ or bead$1 or roll$ up & plait$ toge!r1 & sold]$ on to a ?9 gold plate2 :ile o!rs 7 flatt5$ into /rips =m+ comp>tm5ts1 :i* 7 fill$ ) pieces ( g>net or col\r$ glass cut to %ape4 ,:5 ! spaces betwe5 /rips1 s dispos$ z to make up ! outl9es ( figures or ornam5t1 7 fill$ ) enamel pa/e & fir$1 ! result 0 enamel ( ! cloisonn type4 ,?is cloisonn enamel naturally result$ z soon z ! ,saxon jewell] _h ma/]$ ! art ( fus+ vitre\s col\rs ^u metal4 ,f :om did he le>n ?is art8 ,0 enamell+ introduc$ by ! foll[]s ( ,augu/9e f ,rome or ,byzantium1 or did ! ,iri% mission>ies br+ afre% into ,engl& an art ( :i* ! ,celts 7 pa/ ma/]s8 ,! "q is "o t _c be answ]$2 b x is n )\t int]e/ to note ! great influ5ce ( ! ,iri% craftsm5 on ! art productions ( ! "t4 ,a rem>kable developm5t ( goldsmi?s' "w 9 ,irel& succe$$ ! introduction ( ,*ri/ianity4 ,enamel 0 l>gely employ$ 9 ! decoration ( e>ly objects ( ecclesia/ical metal-"w1 & atta9$ p]fection 9 ! transluc5t cloisonn enamel ( ! ,t>a broo* & ! ,ardagh *alice4 ,! f>-rea*+ influ5ce & extraord9>y activity ( ! ,iri% mission>ies1 _m ( !m no d\bt skill$ goldsmi?s1 are well kn[n4 ,iri% mission>ies lab\r$ among ! ,picts ( ! ,highl&s & among ! ,frisians ( ! nor!rn seas4 ,an ,iri% mission>y1 ,columban1 f\nd$ mona/]ies 9 ,burgundy & ! ,ap5n9es4 ,! canton ( ,/4 ,gall /ill commemorates 9 its "n ano!r ,iri% mission>y4#ai ,! processes ( _! arti/ic metal-"w mu/ h made !mselves felt :]ev] ^! ,iri% mission>ies p5etrat$4 ,! w&]+ s*ol>s & arti/s ( ,irel& left bo? _! books & _! art-appr5tices 9 ,engl&1 z !y _h left !m along ! ,rh9e & ! ,danube4 ,at ,gla/onbury1 ,/4 ,dun/an1 ! patron sa9t ( ,engli% smi?s1 l+]$ z a y\? among ! books ) :i* ! ,iri% mission>ies _h end[$ ! mona/]y1 & associat$ d\btless ) ! mona/ic craftsm5 :o _h le>n$ ! arts ( _! ,celtic pr$ecessors4 #ai ,gre5 7,j4 ,r471 ,%ort hi/ory ( ! ,engli% ,p 7#ahge ed471 p4 #ba4 ,e prie/ 0 tra9$ 9 "s h&icraft1 & _m monks became excell5t goldsmi?s4 ,/4 ,dun/an 7#ibd-ihh71 l ,/4 ,eloi ( ,france 7#ehh-fei71 at once a goldsmi? & a royal m9i/]1 himself work$ 9 ! preci\s metals2 & he appe>s to h be5 a jewell] z well1 = we f9d 9 old inv5tories1 entries ( f+] r+s describ$ z ! productions ( ! great prelate4 ,9 ! ,w>drobe ,acc\nt ( ,edw>d ,i1 9 #abii 7,lib] ,quotidianus1 p4 #cdh71 is ,unus anulus auri cum saphiro qui fuit de fabrica ,sancti ,dun/ani ut cr$ebatur2 & 9 ! inv5tory ( t m$ival fop1 ,pi]s ,gave/on1 #acac 7,rym]1 ,fo$]a1 ,,ii1 i4 p4 #bjc71 is3 ,un anel d'or1 un saphir1 lequel se9t ,dun/an =ga de ses mayns4 ,! arti/ic traditions ( ! old ,saxon jewell]s became almo/ ! sole prop]ty ( ! cl]gy2 & ! ,v5]able ,b$e1 writ+ at ! comm5cem5t ( ! eigh? c5tury1 allud+ to ! mona/ic jewell]s ( 8 day1 describes h[ a skill$ gold-work]1 wi%+ to d "s admirable "w1 collects1 :]ev] he c1 rem>kable & preci\s /ones to be plac$ among ! gold & silv]1 z well to %[ 8 skill z = ! beauty ( ! "w4 ,! description ( ^! /ones z *iefly ( a ruddy or a]ial col\r w\ld seem to indicate t g>nets & turquoises _h n ev5 !n be5 entirely supplant$ by enamels4 ,c]ta9 x is t ! e>li] ,*ri/ian jewels reta9$ = a "t ! te*nique ( ^? ( pagan ,saxondom4 ,= example1 ! gold cross ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t 7d4 #fhg71 discov]$ 9 8 tomb 9 ,durham ,ca!dral 9 #ahbg & n[ pres]v$ 9 ! ,ca!dral ,libr>y1 is inlaid ) g>nets 9 ! cloisonn mann] 7,pl4 ,,xiii1 #c74 ,! int]nec9e w>s ( ! ,saxons & ! e>ly ravages ( ! ,norsem51 f :i* ,engl& 0 deliv]$ by ,alfr$ dur+ ! n9? c5tury1 c h left ! c\ntry little repose = ! cultivation ( ! jewell]'s art4 ,yet1 9 spite ( ! unhappy condition ( ,engl&1 ! art1 judg+ f inscrib$ jewels notic$ h]eaft]1 0 /ill practis$1 & ne$$ only "s presid+ g5ius to awak5 x to new life4 ,!re is little reason to d\bt t jewell]y 0 among ! =emo/ ( ! arts :i* ,alfr$ is kn[n to h enc\rag$2 inde$1 8 int]e/ 9 su* "w is ass]t$ by a well-su/a9$ tradition4 ,& if ! _w-fam$ jewel to be describ$ is1 z seems probable1 to be associat$ ) ,alfr$ ( ,wessex1 he mu/ !n h p]sonally sup]vis$ ! production ( o!r contempor>y jewels4 ,! ,alfr$ jewel1 ! f9e/ example left ( ,anglo-,saxon craftsman%ip1 & ! mo/ fam\s ( all ,engli% jewels1 is pres]v$ 9 ! ,a%molean ,museum at ,ox=d4 ,x 0 f\nd 9 #afic at ,newton 7or ,pe!rton7 ,p>k1 ?ree miles f ! ,isle ( ,a!lney1 ,som]set1 :i!r ,alfr$ _h fl$ f ! ,danes 9 ! ye> #hgh1 & 0 pres5t$ to ! museum 9 #agah by ,?omas ,palm]1 gr&son ( ,colonel ,na?aniel ,palm]1 ne> ^: e/ate x 0 f\nd4 ,! jewel is #b in*es long1 #a-a_/e wide1 & half an in* 9 ?ickness4 ,x some:at resembles a battl$ore 9 %ape2 x is flat front & back1 :ile ! o!r p>ts ( its surface are r\nd$4 ,! obv]se is ( rock cry/al1 b5ea? :i* is a plaque ( semi-transp>5t cloisonn enamel ( blue1 :ite1 gre51 & br[n1 repres5t+ ! figure ( a man4 ,^u ! rev]se is an engrav$ gold plate4 ,! small] end ( ! oval is prolong$ into ! =m ( a bo>'s head1 f ! sn\t ( :i* projects a holl[ socket4 ,ar\nd ! slop+ sides ( ! jewel1 f left to "r1 runs ! leg5d ,,aelfr$ ,,mec ,,heht ,,gewyrcan 7,alfr$ ord]$ me to be made71 9 gold lett]s1 exquisitely *isell$ 9 op5-"w ^u ! b& :i* encircles ! enamel & its cry/al cov]+4 ,! :ole ( ! goldwork is beautifully execut$ 9 filigree & granulation 7,pl4 ,,xiii1 #a1 #b74 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xiii ,,late ,,anglo-,,saxon ,,jewell]y 7#g,,?-#i,,? ,,c5turies7 ,!re is consid]able d\bt z to ! actual use ( ?is preci\s jewel4 ,pr(essor ,e>le has plac$ x among ! category ( p]sonal ornam5ts1 & holds t x 0 execut$ "u ! p]sonal sup]vision ( ,alfr$ ! ,great1 & =m$ ! c5tral ornam5t ( 8 helmet or cr[n4#bj ,! enamell$ figure is probably int5d$ = t ( ,*ri/1 repres5t$1 z is frequ5tly done 9 e>ly ecclesia/ical art1 hold+ two sceptres4 ,! gold sett+ ( ! jewel1 x is g5]ally agre$1 0 made 9 ,engl&1 & 9 ! op9ion ( _m ! enamel is ( native orig94#ba #bj ,! ,alfr$ ,jewel1 p4 #de4 #aija4 ,o!rs consid] t ! jewel 0 ! head ( a book-m>k] or po9t]4 #ba ,m4 ,mol9i] 7,hi/oire gnrale des arts appliqus l'indu/rie1 ,,iv1 p4 #ic7 is ( ! op9ion t ! enamel is ,engli%1 & n1 z "s hold1 ( ,byzant9e orig94 ,see also ,victoria ,c\nty ,hi/ory ( ,som]set1 ,i1 p4 #cgf4 #aijf4 ,some:at simil> 9 %ape to ! ,alfr$ jewel1 & probably employ$ = ! same purpose1 is a jewel kn[n z ! ,m9/] ,lovel jewel1 :i* 0 f\nd half a c5tury ago 9 a village ( t "n ne> ,ox=d1 & is n[ pres]v$ 9 ! ,a%molean ,museum4 ,x is #a in*es 9 l5g?1 circul> above1 ) a project+ socket bel[4 ,! upp] "p is ornam5t$ ) a cross-%ap$ design 9 cloisonn enamel4 ,ano!r rem>kable jewel1 pres]v$ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 is t]m$ ! ,d[gate broo*1 or ! ,roa* ,smi? n\*e 7or broo*71 9 memory ( ! le>n$ & en]getic antiqu>y ^: prop]ty x once 04 ,! broo* 0 f\nd ne> ,d[gate ,hill 9 ,?ames ,/reet1 ,london1 9 #ahci4 ,x is compos$ ( a circul> enamel repres5t+ a full-fac$ head & bu/1 enclos$ 9 a bord] ( ri* gold filigree cov]$ ) bead$ ornam5t & set at equal di/ances ) f\r pe>ls4 ,! f9e cloisons ( ! enamel "w are arrang$ s z to m>k ! outl9es ( ! face1 a cr[n ^u ! head1 & ! folds ( ! drap]y ( a mantle or tunic4 ,! dress is classical 9 appe>ance1 & seems to be fa/5$ on ! "r %\ld]#bb 7,pl4 ,,xiii1 #d74 #bb ,ar*ologia1 ,,xxix1 p4 #gj1 ,pl4 x4 ,two o!r enamell$ broo*es ( ! same k9d ( workman%ip1 also 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 are ! ,t[nley broo*1 also kn[n z ! ,hamilton broo*1 :i* is said to h be5 f\nd 9 ,scotl&1 & ! ,ca/ellani broo*1 =m]ly 9 ! collection ( ,signor ,ca/ellani1 & /at$ to h be5 f\nd at ,canosa1 ,italy 7,pl4 ,,ix1 #i1 #aa74 ,! latt] broo* is set ) a circul> enamel repres5t+ ! bu/ ( a royal p]sonage we>+ l>ge e>r+s1 & ^u ! front ( ! dress a circul> broo* ) ?ree p5dants hang+ bel[ x4 ,at ! l[] "p ( ! gold & enamel frame ( ! ,ca/ellani broo* itself are ?ree loops1 :i* mu/ h held p5dants exactly simil> to ^? atta*$ to ! broo* worn by ! enamell$ figure4 ,p5dants ( ?is k9d are repres5t$1 z has be5 se51 on ! ,rav5na mosaics1 & appe> to be *>act]i/ic ( ,byzant9e broo*es4 ,& x is probable t ?is1 z well z ! ,t[nley broo*1 z expla9$ 9 ! ,proce$+s ( ! ,society ( ,antiqu>ies 7#bnd ,s]ies1 ,vol4 ,,xx1 p4 #fd71 is ( ,cont95tal orig94 ,?\gh simil> 9 "s respects to ! o!r enamell$ jewels1 ^! two broo*es diff] consid]ably f !m4 ,^! diff]5ces1 says a rec5t writ]1 seem to acc5tuate ! difficulty ( trac+ ! orig9 ( ?is enamell$ "w4 ,x may well be t "s ( x 0 execut$ 9 ?is c\ntry by ! craftsm5 9 ! employ ( ,k+ ,alfr$2 b x may fairly be assum$ t on ! j\rneys to ,rome & else:]e1 und]tak5 by ,e!lwulf1 ,alfr$1 & ,e!ls)a1 !y & _! suites w\ld acquire jewell]y ( ?is class1 :i* mu/ h be5 comp>atively common 9 ,rome1 & 9 o!r important c5tres at t "t4#bc #bc ,catalogue ( ! ,alfr$ ! ,great mill5>y exhibition 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 #aija4 ,! r+s dat+ f ! "t ( pagan ,saxondom are few & unimportant2 ^?1 on ! o!r h&1 t belong to ?is lat] p]iod1 ?\gh r>e1 are m num]\s1 & are ( consid]able hi/orical & arti/ic int]e/4 ,x is some:at curi\s t ! f9e/ date almo/ exclusively f ! n9? c5tury1 & t mo/ ( !m are inscrib$4 ,x is to ?is fact1 d\btless1 t !y owe _! pres]vation4 ,no ,anglo-,saxon r+s1 z f> z we are aw>e1 are ornam5t$ ) enamel4 ,_m are enri*$ ) inlays ( niello4 ,gold r+s ?us inlaid sometimes h ! appe>ance ( hav+ be5 enamell$1 = ! niello seems to h a blui% t+e1 b ?is may be due1 z ,mr4 ,dav5port sugge/s 7,anglo-,saxon ,review1 ,vol4 ,v71 to "s optical effect caus$ by ! yell[ gold4 ,! mo/ important inscrib$ ,saxon r+s1 ?ree 9 numb]1 are hi/orical relics ( ! highe/ ord]4 ,!y belong$ respectively to ,alh/an1 ,bi%op ( ,%]borne 7#hbd-hfg72 ,e!lwulf1 ,k+ ( ,wessex 7#hcf-heh71 fa!r ( ,alfr$ ! ,great2 & ,e!ls)1 ,que5 ( ,m]cia1 & si/] to ,k+ ,alfr$4 ,! r+ ( ,alh/an1 at once ! e>lie/ episcopal f+] r+ & ! fir/ 9 *ronological ord] ( ^! inscrib$ gold r+s1 0 f\nd 9 #agec at ,llys-fn1 9 ! c\nty ( ,c>n>von%ire4 ,x 0 "o ( ! *ief treasures ( ! fam\s collection ( f+] r+s =m$ by ! late ,edmund ,wat]ton1 & is n[ 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4 ,! initials ( its own] are inscrib$ 9 niello ^u f\r circul> comp>tm5ts1 sep>at$ by f\r loz5ge-%ap$ comp>tm5ts also inlaid ) niello 7,pl4 ,,xiii1 #i74 ,! mo/ fam\s ( all ,engli% r+s--une pice excessivem5t prcieuse1 says ,m4 ,font5ay1 p> son orig9alit et son c>actre--is t ( ,e!lwulf1 ,k+ ( ,wessex4 ,x is 9 ! =m ( a bi%op's mitre ) only "o peak1 & be>s ! inscription ,,e!lvvlf ,rx1 above :i* are two peacocks peck+ at a tree4 ,! leg5d & subject are res]v$ 9 gold ^u a niello$ gr\nd4 ,! r+ 0 pick$ up 9 its pres5t b5t condition 9 #aghj by a lab\r] 9 a field at ,lav]/oke1 ne> ,salisbury1 :]e x _h be5 press$ out ( a c>t-rut4 ,x is n[ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum 7,pl4 ,,xiii1 #e74 ,! ?ird ( ?is rem>kable s]ies ( inscrib$ r+s is t ( ,e!ls)1 ,que5 ( ,m]cia1 daught] ( ,e!lwulf4 ,x has a circul> bezel1 9 ! middle ( :i* is a rude repres5tation ( an ,agnus ,dei engrav$ 9 relief ) a backgr\nd ( niello4 ,! inn] side ( ! bezel is incis$ ) ! inscription ,symbol3 cross patte ,,ea!lsvi? ,,regna4 ,?is beautiful r+ 0 f\nd ne> ,ab]=d1 9 ,york%ire1 ab\t ! ye> #ahgj1 & came into ! possession ( ,sir ,a4 ,w4 ,franks1 :o bequea!d x to ! ,briti% ,museum 7,pl4 ,,xiii1 #g74 ,sev]al o!r ,saxon r+s are pres]v$ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,among !m is "o ) a pla9 hoop & bead$ edges1 be>+ ar\nd x 9 gold lett]s on a niello$ gr\nd an inscription record+ ! "n ( ! own]1 ,e?r$1 & ! mak] ,eanr$4 ,x 0 f\nd 9 ,lanca%ire1 & bequea!d to ! museum by ,sir ,hans ,sloane 9 #agec4 ,ano!r r+ 7f\nd ne> ,pet]bor\gh 9 ! ,riv] ,n5e7 is peculi> = hav+ two bezels opposite ea* o!r4 ,bo? sides ( ! hoop & ea* bezel are engrav$ ) int]lac$ designs inlaid ) niello4 ,! bezels are ea* flank$ by ?ree small beads ( gold--a *>act]i/ic ornam5tation ( a c]ta9 class ( ,teutonic & ,m]ov+ian r+s1 t]m$ by ! ,fr5* bagues trois gra9s4 ,9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum is a silv] r+ ( unusual =m4 ,x has an oval bezel #a in*es 9 l5g?1 engrav$ ) convolut$ ornam5t 9 five divisions1 ! c5tre be+ fill$ ) a s]p5t-head$ mon/]4 ,x 0 f\nd 9 ! ,?ames at ,*elsea 9 #ahef4 ,a type ( r+ :i* occurs m ?an once is =m$ ( a hoop1 :i* wid5s gradually into a l>ge oval bezel ornam5t$ ) b&s ( ri* plait$ goldwork4 ,"o ( ^! r+s1 f\nd at ,boss+ton1 ne> ,/ockbridge1 is 9 ! ,a%molean ,museum4 ,x has 9 ! c5tre a male portrait surr\nd$ by ! inscription1 ,,nom5 ,,ehlla ,,fid ,,9 ,,xpo 7,my "n is ,ella2 my fai? is 9 ,*ri/74 ,m rem>kable1 p]haps1 ?an any ( ! above1 on acc\nt ( ! peculi> beauty ( its workman%ip1 is a gold r+ 9 ! possession ( ,"l ,fitzh>d+e1 & pres]v$1 toge!r ) ! ,hunsdon jewels1 at ,b]keley ,ca/le4 ,x has a l>ge bezel ( quatrefoil =m4 ,9 ! c5tre is a rais$ circul> boss ornam5t$ ) a cross or :eel-%ap$ design 9 bead$ gold4 ,radiat+ f ?is c5tre are f\r heads ( mon/]s1 inlaid ) ?9 l9es ( niello1 & hav+ project+ eyes =m$ ( dots ( d>k blue & d>k br[n glass or enamel4 ,! hoop ( ! r+1 ( consid]able gir?1 is hexagonal 9 section4 ,at ! junction ( its ends at ! back ( ! bezel1 imm$iately beh9d ! mon/]s' e>s1 x is f9i%$ ) a graduat$ wire ( filigree1 t]m9at+ ) ?ree small balls4 ,! r+ dates f ab\t ! t5? c5tury4 ,no?+ is kn[n conc]n+ its discov]y4 ,x is probably ,saxon1 b may be ( ,iri% orig9 7,pl4 ,,xiii1 #aj74 ,beyond ^! f+] r+s & ! enamell$ jewell]y1 we possess few o!r examples ( lat] ,saxon ornam5ts2 yet !re exi/ a small numb]1 :i*1 ?\gh execut$ some:at aft] ! mann] ( ! old] jewels1 probably belong to ?is lat] p]iod ( ,saxon art4 ,among su* ornam5ts is a necklace f ,desbor\gh1 ,nor?ants1 & n[ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,x is =m$ ( beads ( spirally coil$ gold wire4 ,circul> p5dants1 hav+ "o side convex & ! o!r flat1 alt]nate ) gold p5dants ( v>i\s %apes & sizes1 set ) g>nets4 ,f ! c5tre ( ! necklace hangs a cross 7,pl4 ,,xii1 #a74 ,"o o!r ornam5t 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 p>ticul>ly wor?y ( att5tion1 is a beautiful set ( ?ree ornam5tal p9s ( silv] gilt1 :i* 7 f\nd 9 ! ,riv] ,)am1 ne> ,l9coln4 ,! ?ree p9s h heads 9 ! %ape ( circul> discs1 & are connect$ toge!r by two oblong pieces ( metal ) a r+ at ea* end4 ,! p9s av]age f\r in*es 9 l5g?4 ,! int]lac$ ornam5t on _! circul> heads 7describ$ 9 detail 9 ! ,reliqu>y1 #bnd ,s]ies1 ,vol4 ,x1 p4 #eb71 is arrang$ 9 f\r panels sep>at$ by radial divisions4 ,! p5annul> broo*1 kn[n z ! ,celtic broo*1 s common 9 o!r p>ts ( ! ,briti% ,isles ab\t ?is p]iod1 has r>ely be5 f\nd 9 ,engl&4 ,a few examples occur 9 close proximity to und\bt$ ,anglo-,saxon rema9s1 b !y are conf9$ mo/ly to ! nor? ( ,engl&4 ,its extreme r>ity leads "o naturally to ! conclusion t x f\nd b little fav\r 9 ,engl&4 ,9 ,scotl& & ,irel&1 h[ev]1 :]e x 0 almo/ univ]sally worn1 ?is type ( broo* atta9$1 z w %ortly be %[n1 ! highe/ degree ( excell5ce bo? 9 design & workman%ip4 ,,*apt] ,x ,,! ,,celtic ,,broo* ,9 ord] to und]/& ! condition ( ! arts 9 ! m remote p>ts ( ! ,briti% ,isles1 subsequ5t to ! introduction ( ,*ri/ianity t[>ds ! middle ( ! fif? c5tury1 "o mu/ rememb] ! situation creat$ by ! invasions ( ! ,teutonic tribes1 :]eby ne>ly ! :ole ( nor!rn & we/]n ,europe relaps$ into paganism1 :ile ,irel& & ! we/]n highl&s ( ,scotl& alone rema9$ fai?ful to ! ,*ri/ian ,*ur*4 ,dur+ ! e>li] c5turies ( ?is p]iod1 ! designs & processes ( ! ,celtic crafts1 nurtur$ 9 ^! p>ts ( ! ,briti% ,isles by ! ,*ur*1 undi/urb$ by invad]s1 & free f outside influ5ces1 7 br\ght to a /ate ( high p]fection4 ,! introduction ( ,*ri/ianity into ,irel& by ,/4 ,patrick1 :o d\btless br\ght ) him ,european craftsm51 _h greatly enc\rag$ ! production ( metal-"w2 & ?\gh *anges 9 design result$1 ! spiral patt]ns *>act]i/ic ( ,celtic art 7 reta9$ = a consid]able l5g? ( "t--long] 9 fact ?an 9 any o!r qu>t]s4 ,x is un=tunate1 h[ev]1 t :ile a numb] ( objects ( e>ly ,*ri/ian art f ,irel& & ! ,scotti% highl&s h surviv$1 !re is sc>cely a s+le article ( jewell]y :i* is prior 9 date to ab\t ! n9? c5tury ,a4,d4 ,! *ief p]sonal ornam5ts belong+ to ?is lat] p]iod1 i4e4 ! n9? c5tury onw>ds1 are a numb] ( rem>kable objects kn[n z ,celtic broo*es4 ,! ,celtic broo*1 z f> z its orig9 & developm5t are conc]n$1 %[s no k9%ip ) ! b[ or disc-%ap$ broo*es already describ$1 ?\gh1 l !m1 x probably orig9at$ among ! primitive ,celts ( ! ,danubian region4 ,"o !ory d]ives its evolution f :at is kn[n z a r+-p91 t is a simple p91 ! head ( :i*1 prim>ily solid1 0 aft]w>ds pi]c$ & fitt$ ) a r+1 :i* 9 c\rse ( "t increas$ 9 size & became highly ornam5t$4 ,ano!r !ory traces ! ,celtic broo* f a comb9ation ( a long p9 ) ! anci5t dress fa/5]s--p5annul> r+s furni%$ ) knobs--su* z are f\nd 9 prehi/oric graves1 & are ev5 n[ worn by ! natives ( ,we/ ,africa4 ,?is p5annul> broo* has be5 f\nd n only 9 ,scotl& & ,irel&1 b z f> ea/ z ,livonia1 & is actually /ill 9 use 9 ,alg]ia at ! pres5t day4 ,its peculi>ity consi/s 9 ! great size ( its p9--"o 9 ! ,briti% ,museum measures #bb in*es--! l5g? ( ! p9 be+ suppos$ to h correspond$ to ! rank ( its own]4#bd ,9 "s ( ! e>li] =ms ! r+ is ( ! same bread? all r\nd1 & m]ely cut across 9 "o place = ! passage ( ! p94 ,b z a rule ?is p5annul> r+ t]m9ates 9 knobs1 & :5 ! p9 :i* travels r\nd ! r+ has pi]c$ ! portions ( ! g>m5ts x is int5d$ to unite1 ! r+ is pu%$ a little to "o side & prev5t$ by ! t]m9al knobs f becom+ unloos5$4#be #bd ,proc4 ,soc4 ,antiq41 #bnd ,s]ies1 ,,xix1 p4 #cjd4 ,su* long /\t p9s c\ld only h s]v$ to fa/5 co>se1 loosely wov5 fabrics4 #be ,j4 ,r4 ,all5 7,celtic ,art1 p4 #bai7 describes ! exact function ( ?is broo*1 & illu/rates its use 9 anci5t & mod]n times4 7,see also ,reliqu>y1 #bnd ,s]ies1 ,i1 p4 #afb4 #ahid47 ,! developm5ts 9 ! =m ( ?is broo* %[ its evolution f a p5annul> to an annul> r+4 ,9 "s--probably ! e>lie/--examples1 ! r+ & ! head ( ! p9 t]m9ate 9 bulb\s knobs1 or 9 sph]ical ends ornam5t$ ) ,celtic designs & animals' heads4 ,9 o!rs ! ends ( ! r+s & ! p9-heads are broad5$1 9 ord] to provide space = an elaborate surface decoration ( int]lac$ "w & zoomorphic & an?ropomorphic designs simil> to ^? ^u ! ,iri% manuscripts4 ,f9ally1 ! op5+ is clos$ & ! r+ becomes annul>4 ,! f9e/ examples ( ^! broo*es are pres]v$ 9 ! museum ( ! ,royal ,iri% ,academy 9 ,dubl91 ! ,national ,museum ( ,antiquities ( ,scotl& 9 ,ed9burgh1 & ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,among ! e>lie/--:i* are n1 h[ev]1 prior to ! lat] ,anglo-,saxon p]iod1 & make _! appe>ance ab\t ! n9? c5tury--are ^? ) a pla9 p5annul> r+1 =m$ ( a solid cyl9drical rod ( silv]1 t]m9at+ ) bulb\s knobs furni%$ ) expansions1 & (t5 cov]$ ) a peculi> prickly ornam5tation l ?i/le-heads4 ,specim5s ( ?is /yle ( broo* h be5 f\nd 9 ,irel&1 ,scotl&1 & 9 ! nor? ( ,engl&4 ,! simple/ ( ! silv] p5annul> broo*es ) discoidal t]m9ations 9 ! museum at ,ed9burgh is "o f ,croy 9 ,inv]ness-%ire4 ,x has ends exp&+ into circul> discs ) amb] sett+s4 ,! mo/ elaborate1 "o ( two kn[n z ! ,cadboll broo*es1 f\nd at ,rog>t 9 ,su!rl&%ire1 has f\r rais$ heads ( birds1 two ^u ! circumf]5ce ( ea* disc1 & two ^u ! r+4 ,! collection 9 ! ,royal ,iri% ,academy conta9s sev]al spl5did broo*es ( a simil> type1 notably ! ,kilma9ham broo* f ,kilma9ham1 ,co4 ,dubl91 ! surface ( :i* is ornam5t$ ) comp>tm5ts ( ?9 plates ( gold tool$ ) int]lac$ patt]ns4 ,! t]m9ations ( ! p5annul> r+ soon become s exp&$ t !y fill up exactly half ! r+4 ,^u ^! flatt5$ plaques1 :i* h j space en\gh betwe5 !m = ! p9 to pass1 a s]p5t or dragon =m is a frequ5t ornam5t1 z well z ! int]tw9$ triple ornam5t1 or triquetra1 :ile ! surface is set at int]vals ) bosses ( amb]4 ,! mo/ rem>kable examples ( ?is type are ! ,univ]sity broo* 9 ! collection ( ,tr9ity ,college1 ,dubl91 & ! ,cl>5don broo* f\nd 9 ,co4 ,kilk5ny1 & n[ 9 ! museum ( ! ,royal ,iri% ,academy4 ,! ma9 *>act]i/ic ( ! ,celtic broo* is t x is p5annul>1 t is1 its r+ has an op5+1 if n real1 at lea/ app>5t1 betwe5 its two ends4 ,= ev5 :5 ! n>r[ op5+ left betwe5 ! enl>g$ ends is clos$ by a b>1 or is f9ally clos$ altoge!r1 ! flatt5$ plaques are ornam5tally treat$ z if !y 7 /ill disunit$4 ,( ?is class ( broo*es ) cont9u\s r+s !re h surviv$ two _w-fam$ examples1 "o f ,irel& & ! o!r f ,scotl&4 ,! fir/ ( ^!1 kn[n z ! ,t>a broo*1 0 f\nd 9 #ahej on ! sea%ore ne> ,betty/[n1 ,co4 ,l\?1 & receiv$ ! title ( ,t>a on acc\nt ( its beauty1 & aft] ! celebrat$ hill ( t "n4 ,x is compos$ ( :ite bronze ?ickly gild$4 ,! r+ & exp&$ head ( ! p9 are divid$ into a numb] ( panels ornam5t$ ) examples ( ne>ly e te*nical process1 be+ enri*$ ) enamel-"w1 niello1 & inlaid /ones2 :ile ! metal is hamm]$1 *as$1 & engrav$1 & filigre$ ) extraord9>y delicacy4 ,! enamels1 ( ! cloisonn k9d1 h be5 made sep>ately & m\nt$ l gems4 ,atta*$ to ! broo* on "o side is a f9ely plait$ *a92 a simil> *a9 ^u ! o!r side has be5 lo/4 ,! rev]se ( ! broo* is unadorn$ ) sett+s1 b decorat$ ) a div]g5t spiral ornam5t kn[n z ! ,celtic trumpet patt]n1 execut$ ) v great p]fection4 ,! probable date ( ?is extraord9>y jewel is ! t5? c5tury4 ,x is n[ ! *ief treasure ( ! museum ( ! ,royal ,iri% ,academy1 = :i* x 0 b\ght 9 #ahfg = ! sum ( #bjj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xiv ,,! ,,t>a ,,broo* 7,,national ,,museum1 ,,dubl97 ,! f9e/ aft] ! ,t>a broo*1 & ! mo/ fam\s ( ,scotti% broo*es1 is kn[n z ! ,hunt]/on broo*4 ,x 0 f\nd 9 #ahbf on ! e/ate ( ,mr4 ,rob]t ,hunt]1 ( ,we/ ,kilbride1 ,ayr%ire1 & is n[ 9 ! ,national ,museum ( ,antiquities ( ,scotl&4 ,x is some:at simil> to ! ,t>a broo*1 & ( ! same gilt metal1 b r less ornate1 & unprovid$ ) enamels1 glass pa/es1 or *a94 ,its ma9 ornam5tation consi/s ( v>ieties ( int]lac$ "w 9 f9e gold filigree1 ( s+ul>ly beautiful design & ( rem>kable execution4 ,! back is decorat$ ) ! trumpet patt]n1 & engrav$ ) ,runic *>act]s4 ,! pres5ce ( ! trumpet patt]n ^u ! backs ( ^! two fam\s broo*es det]m9es _! date z prior to ! elev5? c5tury2 = ! old ,celtic patt]n disappe>s f broo*es & f mo/ ,iri% & all ,scotti% metal-"w aft] ! ye> #ajjj ,a4,d41 & is succe$$ by v>ieties ( int]lac$ "w & zoomorphic designs4#bf ,! lat] ,celtic broo*es diff] besides 9 =m1 = ! p9 is long] 9 proportion to ! size ( ! r+1 & its head is h+$ ^u a con/riction ( ! r+1 :i* itself becomes p>tly fill$ up4 #bf ,&]son 7,j471 ,scotl& 9 e>ly ,*ri/ian times1 #bnd ,s]ies4 #ahha4 ,! ,celtic broo* is di/9ct 9 itself1 & does n m]ge into any o!r =m4 ,x disappe>s entirely ab\t ! ?irte5? c5tury1 & is succe$$ by a totally diff]5t type ( broo*1 :i* belongs to ! ornam5ts ( ! lat] ,middle ,ages4 ,,! ,,jewell]y ,,( ,,! ,,middle ,,ages 7,,t5? ,,to ,,fifte5? ,,c5turies7 ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,m$i,,val ,,jewell]y ,,introduction ,to ! /ud5t ( jewell]y ! ,middle ,ages (f] f> great] problems ?an ! p]iods ( classic antiquity4 ,! ma9 reason = ?is is to be f\nd 9 ! fact t ?r\gh\t m$ival & lat] p]iods ornam5ts 7 m closely associat$ ) dress1 & dress itself became subject to ! mo/ m>k$ *anges & con/ant div]g5ces ( fa%ion4 ,9 ! days ( antiquity1 s f> z our k goes1 ! idea ( fa%ion1 9 ! pres5t s5se ( ! t]m1 did n exi/4 ,b 9 ! ,middle ,ages1 z ,lu?m] po9ts out1 x becomes an important factor 9 ! hi/ory ( civilisation4 ,! duration ( ea* preval5t fa%ion t5d$ to become %ort] & %ort]1 & ! new mode 0 usually an absolute contra/ to ! prec$+ "o4 ,?\gh ornam5ts1 ow+ to _! high] mat]ial value1 did n alt] ) ea* successive *ange 9 dress1 nev]!less !y und]w5t rapid v>iations ( /yle4 ,! cu/om ( bury+ objects 9 graves1 :i* cont9u$ = a consid]able "t aft] ! introduction ( ,*ri/ianity1 af=ds a tol]ably cle> idea ( ! v>i\s ornam5ts worn dur+ ! e>li] p]iods ( ! ,middle ,ages4 ,com+ to a lat] p]iod1 f ! "t ( ! fir/ ,crusade onw>ds1 discov]ies 9 ! graves are extremely r>e1 & "o has to look 9 _m directions = in=mation respect+ ! articles !n 9 use4 ,?\gh !re seems to h be5 an imm5se production ( p]sonal ornam5ts ?r\gh\t ! :ole ( ,europe1 _! intr9sic value has be5 too great to all[ ( _! pres]vation2 & ! arti/ic qualities ( ^? t h surviv$ cause "o to regret all ! m ! :olesale de/ruction t mu/ h occurr$4 ,! jewels ( ! p]iod are1 9 fact1 s few 9 numb]1 & furni% su* /rik+ v>ieties1 t x is impossible to give an exhau/ive synopsis ( ! diff]5t *anges t took place 9 _! =m4 ,! utmo/ t c be attempt$ is to take s+le *>act]i/ic pieces & all[ !m to /& z types ( ! :ole epo*4 ,p]sonal ornam5ts at ?is "t began to h a wid] significance ?an t ( be+ m]ely decorations pleasant to ! eye4 ,_! mat]ial value comes m 9 ! =egr\nd4 ,!y began to =m ! nucleus ( family & h\sehold treasures4 ,! unc]ta9 conditions ( life made x desirable = ! individual to h 8 mo/ preci\s possessions 9 a portable =m4 ,an un=tunate w> or royal displeasure might co/ a pr9ce or b>on 8 l& or 8 ca/les2 b 8 movable goods1 consi/+ ( preci\s /ones & gold & silv] ornam5ts1 7 n s easily expos$ to ! vag>ies ( 8 sup]iors4 ,?us ! num]\s inv5tories ( h\sehold goods t h come d[n f ^? times %[ an a/\nd+ increase 9 ! matt] ( jewels & treasures among ! great & less] gr&ees1 bo? secul> & ecclesia/ical2 :ile !re is a correspond+ advance at ! same "t 9 craftsman%ip4 ,to ?is *ange 9 ! significance ( ornam5ts is to be attribut$ _! r>ity 9 graves4 ,jewell]y _h1 9 fact1 assum$ ! "* ( money pass$ f h& to h&1 & 0 con/antly1 s to speak1 reco9$2 = ev5 if held 9 /eadfa/ possession x _h to submit to *anges ( fa%ion & und]go frequ5t resett+4#bg ,p>ticul>ly 0 ?is ! case at ! p]iod ( ! ,r5aissance1 :5 almo/ ev]y?+ ,go?ic 0 remodell$4 #bg ,lu?m] 7,f471 ,gold und ,silb]1 p4 #ej4 ,tombs1 !n1 supply little or no in=mation2 & = ! pres5t purpose "o may make %ift to use ! *ance descriptions ( romanc]s1 & su* pictorial repres5tations ( jewell]y z are pres5t$ by effigies on brasses1 tomb/ones1 & o!r monum5tal sculpture1 & also by illum9at$ manuscripts4 ,monum5tal effigies %[ a numb] ( accurately execut$ p]sonal ornam5ts1 :i*1 belong+ z !y d ma9ly to sov]eigns & individuals ( weal? & di/9ction1 may be tak5 z ! highe/ types ( ^? !n worn4 ,! m9iatures & decorations ( manuscripts execut$ t[>ds ! end ( ! p]iod "u review also af=d consid]able assi/ance2 = illum9ators 7 int5sely fond ( introduc+ jewels among ! plants1 fl[]s1 birds1 & butt]flies m9utely depict$ on ornam5tal bord]s4 ,! inv5tories ( p]sonal effects made = v>i\s purposes1 & (t5 full ( graphic details1 ?r\gh\t ! :ole ( ! p]iod supply absolutely tru/wor?y evid5ce z to contempor>y ornam5ts4 ,pictures1 :i* are among ! *ief s\rces ( in=mation1 are n at "o's disposal until t[>ds ! t]m9ation ( ?is epo*1 b su* z 7 produc$ dur+ ! lat] ,go?ic /yle1 p>ticul>ly 9 ,italy1 ,g]many1 & ! ,l[ ,c\ntries1 furni% num]\s examples ( jewell]y pa9t$ ) lov+ c>e & m9ute detail4 ,ev5 f ^! s\rces ( in=mation1 h[ev]1 "o c\ld =m b an inadequate idea ( ! precise "* ( m$ival jewell]y4 ,b1 :ile ! v>i\s reasons m5tion$ h result$ 9 ! g5]al de/ruction ( articles made = secul> use1 among preci\s objects consecrat$ to religi\s uses a small numb] ( p]sonal ornam5ts h be5 pres]v$4 ,?is may be due1 p]haps1 to ! sanctity ( ! places conta9+ !m1 or p]haps to ! precautions ( _! gu>dians1 :o h hidd5 !m 9 "t ( tr\ble4 ,!y h surviv$ _m & /range vicissitudes1 & _! safety is n[ secur$ by a new-creat$ ar*ological value1 9 place ( ! religi\s devotion :i* 0 _! =m] gu>dian4 ,9 ! treasury--an edifice atta*$ to ! *ur*--!re 0 kept 9 e>ly times1 among ! ve/m5ts & plate us$ 9 its s]vices1 a va/ collection ( reliqu>ies & jewels gradually br\ght toge!r1 & pres]v$ z memorials ( ! piety ( ! fai?ful4 ,9 num]\s cases ! treasury mu/ h con/itut$ a v]itable museum1 exhibit+ examples ( jewell]y ( ea* successive /yle4 ,"s idea c be =m$ ( ! imm5se scope1 z well z ( ! magnific5ce ( its cont5ts1 f ! e>ly inv5tories :i* ar*ologi/s ( rec5t ye>s h tak5 pa9s to ga!r toge!r & publi%4 ,! relative abundance ( jewell]y ( ,m]ov+ian & ,franki% times1 & ! great r>ity ( jewell]y f ! n9? c5tury onw>ds1 are ph5om5a obs]vable 9 e museum4 ,! reason = ?is lies 9 ! fact t until ! "t ( ,*>lemagne 7#gdb-had7 ! dead 7 buri$ ) _! weapons & ) e article ( jewell]y4 ,! ,emp]or =bade ?is ma9ly z a hea!n practice1 b l>gely because he saw ! disadvantage ( s _m co/ly objects be+ )drawn f circulation1 ) consequ5t loss to ! national res\rces4 ,?is almo/ complete abs5ce ( examples r5d]s x difficult to e/imate precisely ! /yle ( ornam5ts !n 9 use4 ,b z f> z c be judg$1 ,byzant9e influ5ce seems to h affect$ all =ms ( jewell]y4 ,x is kn[n1 at all ev5ts1 t until ab\t ! twelf? c5tury active comm]cial transactions betwe5 ,france & ,g]many on ! "o h&1 & ,byzantium on ! o!r1 7 c>ri$ on by way ( ,v5ice4 ,n only did ,byzant9e workm5 settle 9 ! great seaport ( ! ,adriatic1 b imitations ( "w f ! ,ea/]n ,roman prov9ces 7 probably made !re at an e>ly date by native arti/s4 ,su* traffic appe>s to h be5 p>ticul>ly active dur+ ! ,c>lov+ian p]iod2 :ile ! close fri5d%ip ( ,*>lemagne ) ,h>\n al-,ras*id1 ! celebrat$ caliph ( ! ,s>ac5s1 r5d]s x fur!r probable t models ( ,ori5tal art ab\nd$ 9 ! ,we/ 9 ! n9? c5tury4 ,^! 7 n m]ely conf9$ to articles ( jewell]y & o!r goldsmi?'s productions1 b includ$ also sumptu\s dress mat]ials int]wov5 ) ?reads ( gold1 embroid]ies /udd$ ) gems & pe>ls1 & o!r objects :i* ! spl5d\r ( ! rul]s ( ! ,we/ & ! pr9ces ( ! ,*ur* borr[$ f ! magnific5ce preval5t 9 ! ,ea/ & at ! ,byzant9e ,c\rt4#bh #bh ,lu?m]1 op4 cit41 p4 #gb4 ,! ,ea/]n influ5ce :i* dur+ ! f\r? & fif? c5turies _h come we/w>ds by way ( ,byzantium1 & _h acquir$ new p[] ow+ to ! sov]eignty ( ! ,arabs 9 ,spa9 & ,sicily dur+ ! eigh? & n9? c5turies1 increas$ consid]ably at ! "t ( ! ,crusades4 ,! knights & pr9ces ( ! ,we/ br\ght back n only impressions ( culture f ,syria & ,pale/9e1 b also actual specim5s ( gold ornam5ts & preci\s /ones4 ,!re !n began an invasion ( skill$ workm5 f ! t[ns ( ,asia ,m9or1 & a regul> importation ( su* treasures by ! m]*ants ( ! ,italian republics1 to wit1 ,v5ice1 ,g5oa1 & ,pisa1 :o1 "u ! bann] ( ! ,cross1 re-e/abli%$ _! trade ) ! ,ea/4#bi #bi ,ibid41 p4 #ej4 ,until ab\t ! twelf? c5tury ornam5ts foll[$ = ! mo/ "p ! /yle ( ^? 9 use 9 ! ,ea/]n ,roman prov9ces4 ,"s 7 adorn$ ) cloisonn enamel introduc$ f ,byzantium1 & fir/ execut$ by ,cont95tal workm5 ab\t ! eigh? c5tury4 ,cloisonn1 h[ev]1 01 9 turn1 ab&on$ = *amplev enamel1 ! manufacture ( :i* ^u ! ,l[] ,rh9e _h be5 enc\rag$ by ! ,*ur*1 ?r\gh ! in/rum5tality ( ! ,greek monks4 ,by ! beg9n+ ( ! twelf? c5tury1 ! ,we/ seems to h become la/+ly indep5d5t ( ! ,ea/1 ev5 ) reg>d to its ornam5ts1 z may be inf]r$ f v>i\s rem>kable productions 9 gold & silv]1 & p>ticul>ly 9 gild$ copp] adorn$ ) *amplev enamel1 su* z %r9es & o!r sacr$ objects4 ,_m ( ^! are /ill pres]v$ 9 ! ecclesia/ical treasuries ( ,g]many1 :ile museums at home & abroad all possess beautiful examples4 ,?\gh ! p]sonal ornam5ts ( ?is p]iod are n[ almo/ entirely lo/ to u 9 ! orig9al1 !re has yet be5 pres]v$ a treasure ( ine/imable value 9 ! =m ( a te*nological manual h&$ d[n f ! ,middle ,ages4 ,! "w ref]r$ to is ! fam\s treatise ( ,!ophilus entitl$ ,s*$ula ,div]s>um ,artium1 :i* describes ! te*nical processes ( almo/ all ! indu/rial arts cultivat$ eight c5turies ago--! treatise be+ writt5 %ortly be=e ! ye> #aajj4cj ,aft] describ+ 8 work%op1 ,!ophilus m5tions 8 tools1 & proce$s to describe m9utely ! v>i\s processes necess>y = ! metal-work] to und]/&2 & %[s h[ ! goldsmi? 0 requir$ to be at ! same "t a modell]1 sculptor1 smelt]1 enamell]1 jewel-m\nt]1 & inlay-work]4 ,altoge!r1 to judge f ! directions !re giv51 m especially ^? relat+ to ! te*nical "w ( ! goldsmi?s1 ^! ,s*$ul w\ld seem to reflect ! anci5t k & practices ( ,byzant9e workm51 ( :i*1 h[ev]1 ! goldsmi?s ( ! twelf? c5tury appe> to h become completely indep5d5t4 #cj ,ilg 7,a471 ,!ophilus ,presbyt]1 p4 xliii4 ,! p]fection ( arti/ic "w atta9$ by ! mona/]ies l$ to ! production ( sumptu\s objects to meet ! requirem5ts ( ! ,*ur* 9 connection ) its s]vices1 :ile co/ly %r9es 7 made to conta9 ! num]\s relics br\ght home by pilgrims f ! ,holy ,l&4 ,dur+ ! p]iod ( ! ,romanesque & e>ly ,go?ic /yles p]sonal ornam5ts became objects ( less] importance ?an articles = ecclesia/ical use4#ca ,! enamel-"w = ! decoration ( ornam5ts 0 mo/ly execut$ at ,limoges1 :i* 0 !n ris+ to importance z ! *ief c5tre = ! production ( enamels4 ,! process employ$ 0 *amplev1 g5]ally ^u copp]4 ,su* ornam5ts z buckles1 & broo*es or morses1 = ! belts ( knights or ! ve/m5ts ( ecclesia/ics1 7 produc$ 9 consid]able numb]s at ,limoges1 & f\nd _! way all ov] ! nor?-we/ ( ,europe4 ,! trade-guilds ( ,limoges 7 probably m active 9 ?is k9d ( enamel ?an ^? situat$ ^u ! banks ( ! ,rh9e1 ^: "w seems to h be5 devot$ pr9cipally to %r9es & objects = ! use ( ! ,*ur*4 ,ornam5ts ( ! above types 7 execut$ dur+ ! great] "p ( ! twelf? c5tury & ?r\gh\t ! ?irte5?1 b _! manufacture ceas$ 9 ! c5tury foll[+1 :5 ,limoges 0 sack$ by ! ,black ,pr9ce4 #ca ,cunynghame 7,h4 ,h471 ,european enamels1 p4 #fi4 ,f ! beg9n+ ( ! ?irte5? c5tury a *ange takes place ) ! appe>ance ( ! ,go?ic /yle4 ,=ms become slight] & m elegant1 & exhibit great] delicacy & detail 9 _! workman%ip4 ,hi!rto goldsmi?'s "w1 h[ev] beautiful f ! cumulative effect ( preci\s /ones & enamels1 0 little m ?an conv5tional1 nay1 almo/ b>b>ic1 9 its repres5tations ( ! human figure2 b ! revival 9 ! art ( figure sculpture l$ to a consid]able use be+ made ( ! human figure execut$ 9 full relief4 ,j z 9 ! ,romanesque p]iod1 s dur+ ! "t :5 ,go?ic art reign$ supreme1 ar*itecture left its impress on e "w ( art2 & jewell]y & o!r goldsmi?'s "w1 z well z ivories1 seals1 & ev5 %oes1 7 ornam5t$ ) ! designs ( ,go?ic ar*itecture & ) pi]c$ op5-"w patt]ns1 l ! w9d[ trac]y ( ! great ca!drals--t]m$ ,paul's w9d[s by ! masses4 ,improv$ skill 9 design & workman%ip became incompatible ) ! ret5tion ( ! old] & co>s] enamel-"w1 & )\t rel9qui%+ a m$ium :i* by ! brilliancy ( its col\r+ 0 em95tly suit$ to ! works ( ! goldsmi?1 ! ?irte5?-c5tury craftsman obta9$ ! desir$ result by ! use ( transluc5t enamel ^u metal1 usually silv]1 *as$ & modell$ 9 l[ relief4 ,! beauty ( ?is basse-taille enamel1 produc+1 z x 71 transp>5t pictures1 enabl$ ! arti/ frequ5tly to disp5se ) col\r$ gems1 & reta9 only pe>ls1 ^: delicate hues h>monis$ bett] ) 8 "w4 ,occasionally1 h[ev]1 pe>ls1 preci\s /ones1 & transluc5t enamels 7 employ$ toge!r ) brilliant effect4 ,go?ic ornam5ts ( ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies %[ a peculi> love = figurative & ar*itectural motives :i* exhibit a/oni%+ te*nique & beauty ( =m4 ,t[>ds ! middle ( ! f\rte5? c5tury !re came into use enamel on full relief 7mail en ronde bosse74 ,9 ! inv5tories ( ! "t1 :]e x is frequ5tly m5tion$1 ?is enamel1 usually opaque :ite1 is t]m$ mail en blanc4 ,s *>m+ 0 ! contra/ ( :ite1 m>ble-l figures by ! side ( gold1 bright col\r$ /ones1 & poly*rome enamels1 t = upw>ds ( ?ree c5turies goldsmi?s cont9u$ to apply ?is species ( enamel to jewels4 ,x 0 p>ticul>ly *>act]i/ic ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,sev]al broo*es ornam5t$ ) x w be ref]r$ to lat] 7p4 #adc72 b ! mo/ rem>kable example ( its use is ! wond]ful votive jewel ( ,fr5* workman%ip t]m$ ,das ,gold5e ,rssel1 9 ! treasury ( ! abbey *ur* ( ,altoett+1 9 ,bav>ia1 :i* dates f ab\t #adjj4cb ,! m9ute rep\ss figures on sixte5?-c5tury jewels 7 usually coat$ ) :ite enamel2 & jewell]y maille de blanc is (t5 allud$ to 9 inv5tories4 ,?is species ( enamel 0 disc>d$ 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury1 :5 figures 9 relief w5t out ( fa%ion = jewell]y4 #cb ,kun/d5kmale des ,knigrei*es ,bay]n1 ,i1 iii1 p4 #bcfd4 #aijc4 ,?\gh t[>ds ! close ( ! ,middle ,ages ! art ( cutt+ preci\s /ones & ev5 diamonds 0 c]ta9ly practis$1 yet x is to be obs]v$ t ?r\gh\t ! :ole p]iod jewell]y is set z a rule ) /ones en cabo*on1 i4e4 ) _! surfaces r\nd$ & poli%$ 9 a convex %ape1 b n facet$4 ,! /one treat$ ?us pres]ves its own "* & individuality2 & mu* ( ! *>m ( e>ly jewell]y is due to ?is v fact4 ,f ! middle ( ! ?irte5? c5tury enamel 9 g5]al1 ?\gh appli$ to jewels ( common] k9ds1 is *iefly limit$ to ! m sumptu\s ornam5ts ( ! cl]gy4 ,b ) ! beg9n+ ( ! f\rte5? c5tury ! delight 9 jewell]y enri*$ ) enamels & preci\s /ones is aga9 reveal$ 9 ! co/umes ( ! laity4 ,at ! ,fr5* ,c\rt ( ,john ,,ii 7le ,bon1 d4 #acfd7 & ,*>les ,v 7d4 #achj71 :]e ! pr9ces ( ! royal blood /rove to outrival "o ano!r 9 luxuri\s display1 p]sonal adornm5ts atta9$ an extraord9>y degree ( spl5d\r1 & 7 worn to an excess ( o/5tation4#cc #cc ,"s e/imate ( _! magnific5ce & ext5t may be obta9$ by means ( contempor>y inv5tories4 ,! mo/ rem>kable inv5tory is p]haps t ( ,john's elde/ son1 ,*>les ,v--! ,wise--drawn up 9 #acgi & publi%$ by ,j4 ,lab>te4 ,sc>cely less rem>kable are ! jewel inv5tories ( 8 ?ree o!r sons1 ,l\is ,duke ( ,anj\1 ,john ,duke ( ,b]ry1 & ,philip 7le ,h>di7 ,duke ( ,burgundy1 :i* h be5 publi%$ respectively by ,l4 de ,laborde1 ,j4 ,guiffrey1 & ,b4 ,pro/4 ,?is extravagance ( fa%ion decl9$ = a "t ow+ to ! w>s ) ,engl&1 b atta9$ its full developm5t 9 ! dress ( ! ,burgundian ,c\rt4 ,! spl5d\r ( ! ,burgundian dukes1 out%9+ t ( _! feudal lieges ! k+s ( ,france1 & ca/+ into ! %ade ! rude gr&eur ( ! ,g]man emp]ors1 gave a new impetus to ! use ( articles = p]sonal decoration1 & = a "t set ! fa%ion = e c\ntry ( nor!rn ,europe 9 all matt]s ( /yle z well z ( ornam5t4 ,outside ( ,italy1 :i* p]haps excell$ 9 po9t ( culture1 ! ,c\rt ( ! dukes ( ,burgundy dur+ ! fifte5? c5tury 0 ! ri*e/ & mo/ luxuri\s 9 all ,europe4 ,! sway ( ?is p[]ful ,h\se ext5d$ ov] ! ,l[ ,c\ntries1 ^: ports aft] ,v5ice 7 ! c5tres ( ,ori5tal comm]ce & ^: inl& t[ns1 su* z ,arras1 ,brussels1 & ,gh5t1 vi$ ) "o ano!r 9 weav+ ! products ( ! ,ea/ into all mann] ( ri* /uffs4 ,n only silks1 b pe>ls & preci\s /ones ( all descriptions1 f\nd an entrance ?r\gh ! great port ( ,bruges2 & h>dly a g>m5t is depict$ by ! ,flemi% ma/]s :i*1 p>ticul>ly 9 ! case ( ! ecclesia/ics1 is n ?ick-sewn ) ,ori5tal pe>ls & /ones4 ,a survey ( records conta9+ descriptions ( p]sonal prop]ty1#cd & an exam9ation ( contempor>y pictures--always ! mo/ fasc9at+ docum5t 9 reg>d to p]sonal ornam5t--reveal a widespread luxury4 ,n only at ,c\rt1 b 9 ! ev]yday life ( /reet & m>t1 co/umes =m$ ( magnific5t /uffs 7 habitually worn1 :i* requir$ to be set (f by jewels ( an equally ri* description4 ,! w>m? ( ! ,italian climate dem&$ no su* weal? ( app>el z 0 ess5tial to com=t 9 ! m nor!rly c\ntries2 h5ce pr(usion ( p]sonal ornam5t 0 less g5]ally indulg$ 9 ?r\gh\t ,italy dur+ ! same p]iod4 ,?is special love ( jewell]y & consequ5t ta/e & skill acquir$ by ! goldsmi?s 0 %>$ by ! pa9t]s ( ! day4 ,) a high degree ( f9i% & brilliancy1 !y introduc$ into _! pictures fai?ful repres5tations ( all ! ri* ornam5ts !n 9 vogue4 ,un=tunately actual examples ( ! spl5did jewels ( ?is "t are n[ ( ! utmo/ r>ity1 b su* z h surviv$1 *iefly 9 ! =m ( ri* enamell$ broo*es1 reflect 9 _! execution ! te*nical p]fection & 9 _! design ! :ole-he>t$ realism :i* display !mselves to ! full 9 ! pa9t+s ( ! e>ly ,flemi% s*ool4 #cd ,sev]al inv5tories ( ! cont5ts ( ! ,burgundian treasury h be5 pres]v$4 ,li/s ( ! magnific5t jewels ( two ( ! mo/ p[]ful & weal?y1 ^? ( ,philip ! ,good 7#acif-adfg7 & 8 son ,*>les ! ,bold 7#adcc-adgg7 h be5 publi%$ by ,laborde 9 8 ,ducs de ,b\rgogne1 ,pt4 #b1 ,vol4 ,,ii4 ,illu/ration3 ,coll> ( ! ,ord] ( ! ,gold5 ,fleece1 made 9 #adcb by ,john ,peut9 ( ,bruges1 jewell] to ,philip ! ,good1 ,duke ( ,burgundy4 7,f ! portrait ( ,baldw9 de ,lannoy by ,john van ,eyck at ,b]l947 ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,m$i,,val ,,engl& ,a few broo*es & f+] r+s are almo/ ! only surviv+ examples ( ,engli% jewell]y ( ! elev5? to ! fifte5? c5turies4 ,yet !re is evid5ce f exi/+ records ( an abundance ( ! mo/ beautiful objects z accumulat$ 9 ! ecclesia/ical treasuries1 & ! great %r9es1 l t ( ,/4 ,?omas ( ,cant]bury1 or ( ,our ,lady ( ,wals+ham ,priory1 :i* n ev5 ! ,santa ,casa at ,loreto1 or ! %r9e ( ,/4 ,james at ,compo/ella1 c\ld surpass 9 r5[n1 or equal 9 ! reception ( ri* & co/ly gifts4 ,va/ quantities ( jewell$ objects1 :i* mu/ h be5 9 great "p native productions1 h also be5 tabulat$ 9 ! inv5tories ( our mon>*s1 pr9ces1 guilds1 & corporations4 ,judg+ f extant examples ( ,engli% pa9t$ glass1 sculpture1 & p>ticul>ly embroid]y1 "s e/imate c be =m$ ( ! high quality ( ! goldsmi?s' "w1 :i* 0 sc>cely excell$ 9 ! ,middle ,ages by t ( any o!r c\ntry 9 ,europe4 ,! ,engli% goldsmi?s1 9 fact1 aft] ! ,norman ,conque/ seem to h lo/ none ( ! skill :i* is display$ on _! e>li] productions4 ,,tn3 no footnote m>k] 9 ! text = ?is footnote ,de ,mly & ,bi%op1 ,bibliographie gnrale des inv5taires imprims1 #ahib-ie4 ,a love ( f9]y seems to h *>act]is$ ! ,c\rt ( ,william ! ,conqu]or & 8 successors4 ,! jewell]y ( ! ladies became exce$+ly extravagant1 & is bitt]ly inveigh$ aga9/ by ! religi\s satiri/s4 ,neckam1 an ,anglo-,lat9 poet1 t[>ds ! close ( ! twelf? c5tury1 accuses !m ( cov]+ !mselves ) gold & gems & ( p]=at+ _! e>s 9 ord] to hang !m ) jewels4 ,h5ry ,i _h ! ta/es ( a collector4 ,t he collect$ gems is kn[n f a lett] writt5 by a prior ( ,worce/] to ,edm]1 ,anselm's biograph]1 9 :i* he sugge/s t = money ,h5ry might be p]suad$ to "p ) "s pe>ls4#ce ,k+ ,john 0 greatly atta*$ to 8 jewels1 & _! loss 9 ! ,wa% is commonly suppos$ to h ha/5$ 8 dea?4 ,! record is pres]v$ conc]n+ ! loss on an e>li] occasion ( c]ta9 ( 8 preci\s /ones :i* we are wont to we> r\nd our neck4 ,! /ones mu/ h be5 cr$it$ ) miracul\s p[]s1 = _! f9d] 0 v lib]ally rew>d$4#cf ,h5ry ,,iii1 "o ( ! mo/ indig5t ( mon>*s1 made su* extravagant pres5ts ( jewell]y to 8 wife1 t he 0 aft]w>ds oblig$ to pawn n only 8 regalia1 b a consid]able portion ( ! jewels & preci\s /ones accumulat$ at ! %r9e ( ,edw>d ! ,confessor at ,we/m9/] ,abbey4 #ce ,bateson 7,m471 ,m$ival ,engl&1 p4 #ac4 #cf ,ibid41 p4 #adh4 ,dat+ fir/ f ab\t ?is p]iod are a numb] ( inv5tories ( p]sonal ornam5ts2 & x is by a p]usal ( ! inv5tories ( ! mo/ weal?y1 & p>ticul>ly ^? ( sov]eign pr9ces1 t an e/imate c be obta9$ ( ! nature ( e type ( ornam5t 9 use at ! p]iod1 9 its mo/ elaborate =m4 ,among ! e>lie/ & mo/ important royal inv5tories t h be5 publi%$ are ^? pres]v$ 9 ! ,w>drobe ,acc\nt 7,lib] ,quotidianus7 ( ,edw>d ,i1 = ! ye> #abii4cg ,! jewels 7jocalia7 include a l>ge numb] ( morses or clasps 7firmacula7 giv5 by ! k+ to bi%ops1 & re/or$ aft] _! dea?s1 & simil> objects (f]$ by ! k+ or que5 to v>i\s %r9es2 :ile among o!r jewels are broo*es or n\*es 7n\*e71 _m r+s 7anuli71 a p5dant 7p5dulum71 belt 7zona71 bracelet 7braccale71 & baldrick 7baudre74 ,ab\t ?is "t masses ( preci\s /ones1 ! spoils ( ! ,crusades1 began to f9d _! way into ?is c\ntry1 & to be employ$ = broid]+ or sew+ ^u ! g>m5ts4 ,edw>d ,,ii & 8 extravagant fav\rites1 su* z ! wor?less ,pi]s ,gave/on1 load$ !mselves ) preci\s /ones4 ,li/s ( jewels belong+ to ,gave/on on 8 atta9d] 9 #acac1ch & to ! k+ 9 #acbd1 %[ ! magnific5ce ( _! ornam5ts1 & ! va/ sums at :i* !y 7 valu$4 ,! k+'s jewels1#ci describ$ 9 consid]able detail1 are inv5tori$ "u ! foll[+ head+s3 7a7 ,/ones & o!r objects1 7b7 ,cr[ns ( gold & silv]1 includ+ c]cles & *apeletz1 7c7 ,broo*es 7f]mails7 ( gold1 7d7 ,fleures de liz1 7e7 ,r+s 7anelx7 ( gold1 7f7 ,girdles 7ce9tres7 & diadems 7tress\res74 ,f ?is "t onw>d !re is an increase ( su* docum5ts & ( wills1 & also ( sumptu>y laws specially connect$ ) p]sonal ornam5ts4 #cg ,publi%$ by ! ,society ( ,antiqu>ies 9 #aghi4 pp4 #ccb-cec4 #ch ,rym]1 ,fo$]a1 ,,ii1 #a1 pp4 #bjc-bje4 #ci ,kal5d>s & ,inv5tories ( ! ,ex*equ]1 ,,iii1 p4 #acg4 ,! brilliant reign ( ,edw>d ,,iii#dj 0 fav\rable to ! full display ( jewell]y4 ,new luxuries 7 import$ 9 great abundance1 & !re 0 h>dly a lady ( position :o _h n 9 h] possession "s portion ( ! spoils ( plate & jewels f cities beyond ! sea2 :ile ^? :o1 l ! ,knight ( ,*auc]1 _h be5 at ,alex&ra :5 x 0 won1 return$ ) clo? ( gold1 velvets1 & preci\s /ones4 ,9 ! ?irty-sev5? ye> ( ?is reign 7#acfc7 ! ,p>liam5t held at ,we/m9/] enact$ sev]al sumptu>y laws aga9/ ! extravagant use ( p]sonal adornm5t4 ,^! /ate :at co/ume is suit$ to ! v>i\s degrees ( rank & income1 & are ( value = ! in=mation !y supply on ! prevail+ fa%ions 9 jewell]y4 ,re/rictions ( ?is k9d1 re-enact$ f "t to "t1 & app>5tly ( little effect1 seem to h be5 int5d$ n s mu* to prev5t ! gratification ( an in/9ctive desire = brav]y & spl5d\r1 z to make diff]5t classes proclaim _! rank & /ation by _! dress4 #dj ,see li/ ( 8 jewels 9 ,inv5tories ( ! ,ex*equ]1 ,,iii1 p4 #aff1 & 8 ,great ,w>drobe ,acc\nts 7,ar*ologia1 ,,xxxi1 p4 #ee74 ,*auc] 9 ! ,prologue ( 8 ,cant]bury ,tales af=ds 9 a *>m+ mann] additional in=mation ab\t ! p]sonal ornam5ts ( ! diff]5t grades ( ,engli% society ( 8 "t4 ,he gives detail$ description ( ! broo* ( ! yeoman & ! nun1 & pictures ! m]*ant ) 8 ri*ly clasp$ %oes1 ! squire ) %ort knife & gypcire 7purse7 at 8 girdle1 ! c>p5t]'s wife ) h] coll> fa/5$ by a broo* z broad z ! boss ( a buckl]1 & v>i\s tradesm5 :o1 9 spite ( sumptu>y laws1 wore p\*es1 girdles1 & knives ( silv]3-- ,hir knives 7 y*ap$ n ) bras ,b all ) silv] wr\ght ful cl5e & wel ,hir girdeles & hir p\*es e del4 ,! passion = p]sonal ornam5ts1 or brav\ries z !y 7 t]m$1 rea*$ its z5i? 9 ,engl& dur+ ! reign ( ! elegant & un=tunate ,ri*>d ,,ii1 ^: c\rti]s outvi$ "o ano!r 9 su* extravagances4 ,an anonym\s writ] ( ! p]iod quot$ by ,camd5 9 8 ,rema9es conc]n+ ,brita9 speaks ( hoods1 ev5 ^? worn by m5 ( mod]ate means1 z commonly set ) gold & preci\s /ones1 :ile _! girdles are ( gold & silv]1 "s ( !m wor? tw5ty m>ks4 ,! k+1 9 con/ant want ( money1 0 oblig$ on sev]al occasions to deposit ! royal jewels ) ! ,corporation ( ,london z security = loans1 & detail$ li/s ( ! objects select$ = ! purpose are pres]v$ 9 ! inv5tories ( ! ,ex*equ]1 & among ! city ar*ives4 ,9 spite ( attempt$ re/rictions1 & not)/&+ ! disa/r\s ,w>s ( ! ,roses1 imm5se dem&s appe> to h be5 made ^u ! productive p[]s ( ! jewell]s ?r\gh\t ! :ole ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,! rem>kable li/ ( ,h5ry ,,iv's jewels 9 ! inv5tories ( ! ,ex*equ]1 & ! mo/ important ( royal ,engli% inv5tories ( ! ,middle ,ages1 t tak5 aft] ! dea? ( ,h5ry ,v 9 #adbb 7,rotuli ,p>liam5torum1 ,,iv1 pp4 #bad-bda71 s]ve to %[ t until ! end ( ! c5tury1 :i* may s]ve z ! t]m9ation ( ! p]iod1 extraord9>y extravagance 9 ! /yle & nature ( ornam5ts z well z ( co/ume 0 ! ord] ( ! day4 ,e "o :o _h acquir$ weal?1 or ev5 a mode/ compet5ce only1 display$ a magnific5ce f> beyond 8 means4 ,x 0 a "t :5 weal? 0 requir$ 9 a compact & tangible =m4 ,own]s did n hesitate to melt d[n _! jewels :5 desir\s ( employ+ !m = o!r purposes4 ,! *ange ( ta/e :i* %ortly came ab\t t5d$ t[>ds simil> de/ruction2 :ile ! ,w>s ( ! ,roses involv$ ! break+ up ( mu* t 0 mo/ sumptu\s 9 mat]ial & beautiful 9 workman%ip4 99 99 99 ,?r\gh\t ! :ole ( ! ,*ri/ian ,middle ,ages ! highe/ ef=ts ( ! goldsmi? 7 direct$ to ! enri*m5t ( ! ,*ur* & ! adornm5t ( its m9i/]s1 & ! magnific5ce :i* ! ritual ( ! ,*ur* fo/]$ f\nd expression 9 ! jewell$ ornam5ts ( ecclesia/ic ve/m5ts4 ,9 ,norman times ecclesia/ical jewell]y 0 extremely luxuri\s & co/ly1 & ! illum9ations ( ! p]iod %[ ! cope & *asuble ri*ly bord]$ ) preci\s /ones4 ,/4 ,?omas ,becket wore an extraord9>y pr(usion ( jewels1 & descriptions are pres]v$ ( ! magnific5ce ( 8 own p]son & ( 8 att5dants dur+ a progress he once made ?r\gh ! /reets ( ,p>is4 ,innoc5t ,,iii1 memorable 9 ?is c\ntry z ! ,pope to :om ! pusillanim\s ,john surr5d]$ 8 cr[n1 is record$ to h comm5t$ on ! ri*ness ( ! co/umes & ornam5ts ( ! ,engli% cl]gy1 ) a h9t at ! possibility ( extract+ fur!r sums = ! increase ( ! papal rev5ue4 ,! e>ly inv5tories all record ! spl5d\r ( ! ve/m5ts us$ 9 public wor%ip1 & %[ h[ pe>ls1 preci\s /ones1 & ev5 anci5t cameos1 all r5d]$ m beautiful by exquisite sett+s1 7 employ$ = _! enri*m5t4 ,no bi%op1 inde$1 0 suitably equipp$ )\t a preci\s mitre ) delicate goldsmi?'s "w & inlaid gems1 )\t a spl5did morse or broo* to fa/5 8 cope1 & )\t a r+1 set ) an antique gem or a /one en cabo*on1 to we> ov] 8 embroid]$ glove4 ,( all ^! ri* ornam5ts sc>cely any examples h surviv$ save a numb] ( r+s recov]$ f ! graves ( ecclesia/ics4 ,all ! m preci\s1 !re=e1 are ! jewell$ ornam5ts bequea!d 9 #adjd by ,william ( ,wykeham1 ,bi%op ( ,w9*e/]1 to ,new ,college1 ,ox=d1 :]e !y are /ill pres]v$ z relics ( its munific5t f\nd]4 ,^! unique examples ( m$ival jewell]y date f ! clos+ ye>s ( ! f\rte5? c5tury--! p]iod ( transition f ,decorat$ to ,p]p5dicul> ar*itecture3 a "t :5 ,go?ic art _h rea*$ its climax2 & n only ! ar*itect1 b ! pa9t] & ! goldsmi? 7 /ill devot+ _! utmo/ ef=ts on behalf ( ! ,*ur*1 ! c5tre ( ! :ole m$ival sy/em4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xv ,,william ,,( ,,wykeham',s ,,jewels ,,new ,,college1 ,,ox=d ,! ,new ,college jewels orig9ally decorat$ ,william ( ,wykeham's preci\s mitre 7mitra pretiosa74 ,portions ( ! gr\ndwork ( ! mitre sewn ) se$ pe>ls1 & its orig9al case ( cuir b\illi or boil$ lea!r1 /amp$ ) fleurs-de-lis & b\nd ) iron /raps1 are /ill pres]v$ 9 ! ,college4 ,among ! jewell$ fragm5ts are h+$ b&s ( silv] gilt1 =m$ ( plates ( basse-taille enamel repres5t+ animals & grotesques1 :i* alt]nate ) sett+s ( d>k blue pa/es & :ite cry/als surr\nd$ by radiat+ pe>ls4 ,^! b&s probably w5t r\nd ! l[] "p ( ! mitre1 & also p]haps ran up ! middle ( x1 be=e & beh9d4 ,! cre/s ( ! mitre 7 edg$ ) /rips ( exquisitely *as$ crocket+ 9 gold4 ,! o!r fragm5ts include two rosettes ( beautifully execut$ ,go?ic foliation set ) :ite cry/als1 toge!r ) two quatrefoils 9 silv] gilt & a cruci=m gold ornam5t set ) turquoises4 ,! *ief treasure ( ! ,new ,college collection is an exquisite gold jewel1 a monogram ( ! ,bless$ ,virg91 ! patron sa9t ( ! ,college ( ,/4 ,m>y ( ,w9ton 9 ,ox=d4 ,x is a cr[n$ ,lomb>dic ,m2 & might be ! ri* capital ( "s m$ival manuscript1 ) its gorge\s col\r+ fai?fully translat$ into gold1 enamel1 pe>ls1 & preci\s /ones4 ,9 ! op5 p>ts ( ! lett] are figures ( ! ,virg9 & ! ,angel ( ! ,annunciation 9 full relief1 ! angel's w+s be+ cov]$ ) enamel ( transluc5t gre54 ,! space above ! head ( ea* figure is occupi$ ) delicate ar*itectural "w ( op5 cusp+s4 ,9 ! c5tre ( ! jewel is a l>ge ruby 9 ! =m ( a vase1 f :i* spr+ ?ree lilies ) :ite enamell$ blossoms4 ,on ea* side ( ! vase are ?ree small em]alds4 ,rem>kable ta/e is %[n 9 ! arrangem5t ( ! preci\s /ones3 f9e em]alds & rubies1 en cabo*on1 m\nt$ alt]nately 9 rais$ sett+s r\nd ! jewel4 ,two /ones1 a ruby on ! left & an em]ald on ! "r1 are miss+4 ,! re/ ( ! m\nt+s are ,ori5tal pe>ls some:at discol\r$ by age 7,pl4 ,,xv1 #a74 ,x is g5]ally consid]$ t ! jewel adorn$ & occupi$ a c5tral place on ! mitre1 & its dim5sions 7#b by #b in*es7 r5d] its employm5t 9 t position probable4 ,z1 h[ev]1 !re are no indications ( su* an ornam5t on contempor>y repres5tations ( mitres1 & above all on ! mitre figur$ on ! f\nd]'s own tomb at ,w9*e/]1 !re rema9s ! possibility ( ! jewel hav+ be5 employ$ z a broo* or n\*e on "s o!r "p ( ! ve/m5t4 ,?is rem>kable jewel /&s q alone 9 po9t ( excell5ce4 ,x goes f> to ju/ify ! cont5tion t ,engli% jewell]s at ?is p]iod1 z well z 9 ,saxon times1 equall$1 if !y did n out/rip1 ! craftsm5 ( o!r nations 9 ! successful cultivation ( ! goldsmi?'s art4 ,illu/ration3 ,int]ior ( a jewell]'s %op4 ,f ,kreut]bu* 7,frank=t1 #aecf74 ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,,! ,,my/]y ,,( ,,preci\s ,,/ones ,"o ( ! mo/ curi\s & int]e/+ facts 9 connection ) ! jewell]y ( ! ,middle ,ages is ! peculi> respect :i* seems to h be5 paid to preci\s /ones4 ,9 a sci5tific age1 says ,mr4 ,paton1 x is difficult to appreh5d & sympa?ise ) ! /ate ( m9d :i* end[$ natural objects ) ! prop]ties ( *>ms & feti*es4 ,be=e x 0 ! habit to trace ph5om5a to natural causes1 fai? 9 occult p[]s 0 /rong1 & cr$ulity ex]cis$ a m>k$ influ5ce on ! habits & actions ( ! p4#da ,preci\s /ones1 on acc\nt ( ! my/]y & romance atta*+ to mo/ ?+s ( ,ea/]n orig91 _h long attract$ to !mselves a sup]/iti\s rev]5ce2 s t _! *oice & arrangem5t1 :i* appe> to u m]ely arbitr>y n[adays1 _h 9 ! ,middle ,ages a di/9ct mean+ consecrat$ by traditions dat+ back f v anci5t times4 ,e /one1 l ^? :i* enri*$ ! brea/-plate ( ! ,high ,prie/1 & ^? :i* 9 ,/4 ,john's vision =m$ ! f\ndations ( ! ,heav5ly ,j]usalem1 0 suppos$ to possess special p[]s & virtues4 ,abundant pro( ( ?is is exhibit$ 9 ! m$ival inv5tories1 :]e ! beauty or r>ity ( a /one c\nt$ = inf9itely less 9 ! e/imation ( its value ?an ! reput$ talismanic virtue1 su* z ! toad/one1 = example1 0 suppos$ to possess4 ,! m$ival lit]ature ( preci\s /ones1#db :]e9 is exp\nd$ _! m$ic9al virtues or _! sup]natural p[]s 9 baffl+ evil spirits1 is bas$ on a classical poem ( ab\t ! f\r? c5tury ,a4,d41 entitl$ ,li?ica1 :i* claims to be a /atem5t ( _! magic prop]ties made by ! se] ,!odamas to ! poet ,orpheus4 ,simil> belief 9 ! virtues ( preci\s /ones 0 /ill 9 exi/5ce 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 & f9ds an expon5t 9 ,camillus ,leon>dus1 physician to ,cs> ,borgia1 9 8 "w entitl$ ,speculum ,lapidum1 publi%$ at ,v5ice 9 #aejb4 ,ev5 z late z ! foll[+ c5tury ! use ( preci\s /ones z *>ms 0 m ?an half sanction$ by ! le>n$1 & 9 8 ,natural ,hi/ory ,bacon lays x d[n z cr$ible t preci\s /ones may "w by cons5t ^u ! spirits ( m5 to com=t & exhil>ate !m4 ,! le>n$ lawy] & philosoph]1 inde$1 0 n 9 ?is mu* sup]ior to ! pla9 & simple folk :o /ill imag9$ t e preci\s /one _h "s my/ic value communicable to ! we>]4 ,ab\t ! same "t ,de ,boot1 or ,boe?ius1 ! le>n$ physician to ! ,emp]or ,rudolf ,,ii1 publi%$ 8 fam\s ,lapid>y1 :i* ,mr4 ,c4 ,w4 ,k+ recomm5ds z a "w wor?y ( especial /udy = ! prop]ties ( /ones1 & m5tions h[ x draws a di/9ction t curi\sly illu/rates ! /ruggle !n go+ on betwe5 traditional sup]/ition & common s5se4#dc #da ,paton 7,j471 ,scotti% national memorials1 p4 #ccg4 #db ,! =emo/ int]pret] ( _! my/]ies 9 ! ,middle ,ages 0 ,m>bode1 ,bi%op ( ,r5nes 7#ajie-aabc71 9 8 ,de ,lapidibus ,pretiosis ,en*iridion4 #dc ,k+1 ,preci\s /ones1 p4 #ab4 ,treatises on preci\s /ones frequ5tly f9d a place 9 sixte5?-c5tury ,h]bals1 & are (t5 accompani$ by v spirit$ woodcuts repres5t+ ! work+ ( preci\s /ones & ! process ( adapt+ !m to p]sonal ornam5ts1 toge!r ) designs ( actual articles ( jewell]y 9 :i* !y are set4 ,two ( ! f9e/ books ( ! k9d are--an ,ortus ,sanitatis 7,/rasburg1 circa #adig71 & a ,kreut]bu* pr9t$ at ,frank=t 9 #aecf4 ,) ! advance ( ,*ri/ianity ! repres5tation ( ! subjects ( pagan my?ology 0 =bidd5 by law2 b ! old ideas 7 reta9$ = _m ye>s1 & small objects l cameos or intaglios 7 c>ri$ ab\t conceal$ ^u ! p]son4 ,lat] on1 :5 all k ( classical art _h sunk into oblivion1 su* /ones became priz$ n only = ! subjects engrav$ on !m1 :i* _! m$ival own] seldom und]/ood1 b also = ! fact t !y 7 suppos$ to possess special talismanic virtues4 ,! majority ( ^! gems 7 m\nt$ z r+s or z seals ( secul> & ecclesia/ical p]sonages ( rank4 ,pres]v$ among ! ,h>leian ,,mss4 9 ! ,briti% ,museum is a ?irte5?-c5tury ,,ms4 7quot$ by ,mr4 ,wright 9 ,ar*ologia1 ,vol4 ,,xxx71 :i* conta9s in/ructions = ! we>+ ( v>i\s /ones1 & = ! composition ( ! diff]5t metals ( ! r+s 9 :i* !y 7 to be set4 ,a pro( ( ! firm e/abli%m5t ( ! ,romans 9 ,brita9 is af=d$ by ! numb] ( _! gems br\ght to light 9 m$ival times2 :ile ! decay ( ! art ( gem-engrav+ 9 ! ,middle ,ages is %[n by ! fact t ! ,h>leian ,,ms4 always ref]s to ^! gems z objects to be f\nd & n made4444 ,a /one engrav$ 9 "o mann] y %\ld susp5d ab\t ! neck1 z x enables y to f9d treasures1 ! impression 9 wax ( ano!r /one w cause m5 to speak well ( y4 ,! engrav+ ( a dove ) a bran* ( olive 9 its m\? %\ld be m\nt$ 9 a silv] r+1 & ano!r gem %\ld be plac$ 9 a r+ ( lead4 ,f ^! & simil> writ+s x is cle> t "o ( ! objects aim$ at by ! m$ival au?ors 0 to def9e ! diff]5t virtues ( ! sigils engrav$ ^u preci\s /ones4 ,su* ideas1 n previ\sly unkn[n1 z1 = example among ! ,gno/ics1 7 no d\bt /imulat$ by ! ,crusades1 :]eby ! /udy ( al*emy & ! int]e/ 9 ,ori5tal my/]ies became spread ?r\gh\t ,europe4 ,leon>dus1 z late z ! sixte5? c5tury1 obs]ves t /ones if engrav$ by a skilful p]son or "u "s p>ticul> influ5ce1 w receive a c]ta9 virtue4444 ,b if ! effect int5d$ by ! figure engrav$ be ! same z t produc$ by ! natural quality ( ! /one1 its virtue w be d\bl$1 & its efficacy augm5t$4 ,we see ?us t ! talismanic ideas respect+ preci\s /ones 7 atta*$ z mu* to _! engrav+ z to ! /ones !mselves4 ,ow+ to ! complete decl9e ( ! glyptic art 9 ! ,middle ,ages1 antique cameos & intaglios1 on acc\nt ( "s fanci$ assimilation 9 subject or idea to ,*ri/ian symbolism1 7 occasionally us$ = dev\t subjects4 ,toge!r ) ! g5]al ignorance ( classical art1 & ! consequ5t attempts t 7 made to give ! pagan repres5tation ^u antique gems a ,*ri/ian signification--frequ5tly 9 a v =c$ & curi\s mann]--!re appe>s to h be5 a c]ta9 appreciation ( _! beauty4 ,:5 small relics1 su* z p>ticles ( ! wood ( ! cross1 or l>g] relics1 z bones ( ! sa9ts1 7 enclos$ ei!r 9 portable reliqu>ies or 9 co/ly %r9es1 su* receptacles 7 n infrequ5tly encru/$ ) anci5t cameos & intaglios1 z repres5t+ ! v *oice/ objects :i* ! f]v5t devotion ( ! age c\ld select = ?is sacr$ purpose4 ,! ,%r9e ( ! ,?ree ,k+s at ,cologne#dd & ! ,treasure ( ,conques#de are /ill enri*$ ) _m f9e examples ( ! gem-engrav]'s art1 & ! magnific5t gold %r9e ( ,edw>d ! ,confessor 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey1 long s9ce despoil$1 0 =m]ly m\nt$ ) num]\s cameos1 all probably antique4#df #dd ,bock 7,f471 ,das heilige ,kln4 ,s*atzkamm] des ,kln] ,domes1 p4 #bg4 #de ,! ,abbey ( ,conques1 ne> ,rodez1 9 ! ,dep>tm5t ( ,aveyron4 ,see ,d>cel 7,a47 ,trsor de ,conques1 p4 #ff4 #df ,rock 7,d471 ,*ur* ( our fa!rs1 ,,iii4 #a1 p4 #cic4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xvi ,,antique ,,cameos ,,9 ,,m$i,,val ,,sett+s ,! hi/ory ( ! glyptic art has be5 suffici5tly encroa*$ ^u "h to demon/rate ! prom95t place occupi$ by antique gems 9 ! p]sonal ornam5ts ( ! ,middle ,ages4 ,_! use = signet r+s w be ref]r$ to aga92 b att5tion mu/ be drawn to ! ?ree mo/ rem>kable examples ( _! application to o!r articles ( jewell]y--! ,jewel ( ,/4 ,hil>y & ! ,cameo ( ,*>les ,v 9 ! ,biblio?que ,nationale at ,p>is1 & ! ,s*affhaus5 ,onyx1 pres]v$ among ! ar*ives ( ! t[n ( ,s*affhaus5 9 ,switz]l& 7,pl4 ,,xvi74 ,! ,jewel ( ,/4 ,hil>y conta9s a f9e cameo head 9 pr(ile ( ! ,emp]or ,augu/us on a s>donyx4 ,x is enclos$ 9 a frame ( silv] gilt set ) l>ge rubies1 sapphires1 & pe>ls4 ,! jewel 0 =m]ly employ$ z a pectoral or brea/-ornam5t ^u a silv] reliqu>y bu/ ( ,/4 ,hil>y pres]v$ 9 ! ,treasury ( ,/4 ,d5is4 ,on ! disp]sal ( ! ,treasury 9 #agia1 ! jewel 0 remov$ to ! ,biblio?que ,nationale4 ,! framework dates f ! twelf? c5tury4 ,x measures #c by #b in*es4#dg ,! ,cameo ( ,*>les ,v ( ,france1 a s>donyx ( ?ree lay]s1 dat+ f ,imp]ial ,roman times1 repres5ts a full l5g? figure ( ,jupit]4 ,x is m\nt$ 9 ! gold frame 9 :i* x 0 pres5t$ to ! ,treasury at ,*>tres by ! ,k+4 ,su* prophylactic v]ses#dh z are f\nd frequ5tly side by side ^u amulets & 9 cabali/ic =mul ( ! ,middle ,ages1 are inscrib$ r\nd its edge on a gr\nd ( blue & r$ enamel1 toge!r ) ! op5+ words ( ,/4 ,john's ,gospel1 :i* 7 suppos$ to s]ve z a protection1 p>ticul>ly aga9/ demons & ?und]4 ,! figure ( ,jupit] ) ! eagle probably pass$ = a repres5tation ( ! evangeli/4 ,at ! l[] "p is a cr[n$ escut*eon be>+ ! arms ( ,france1 & on ! cr[n is an inscription record+ ! pres5tation ( ! jewel by ,*>les ,v 9 ! ye> #acfg4di ,?is beautiful example ( ,fr5* jewell]y ( ! f\rte5? c5tury is #f in*es 9 l5g? & #c 9 wid?4 #dg ,babelon 7,e4 ,c4 ,f471 ,catalogue des cames de la ,bib4 ,nat41 p4 #ajg4 #dh ,/4 ,luke1 ,,iv4 #cj2 & ,/4 ,john1 ,,viii4 #b4 #di ,babelon1 op4 cit41 p4 #a4 ,( slightly lat] date ?an ! ,jewel ( ,/4 ,hil>y1 & ( f> m elaborate workman%ip1 ?\gh p]haps less well kn[n on acc\nt ( its some:at remote situation1 is ! ,s*affhaus5 ,onyx4 ,! /one1 a f9e s>donyx1 is a ,roman cameo ( a female figure c>ry+ a cornucopia & caduceus1 & int5d$ to repres5t ,peace4 ,its sett+1 a sup]b specim5 ( m$ival goldwork1 is m\nt$ ) figures ( eagles & lions1 *as$ 9 full relief & arrang$ 9 regul> ord] betwe5 high bezels set ) g>nets1 sapphires1 pe>ls1 & turquoises4 ,! outside measurem5t ( ! jewel is #f by #e in*es1 & t ( ! /one #c by #c4ej #ej ,= a full description ( ?is jewel1 see a monograph by ,j4 ,j4 ,o]i1 entitl$ ,d] ,onyx von ,s*affhaus54 ,! l>ge "p play$ by sup]/ition 9 ! ornam5ts ( ! ,middle ,ages ne$ n be fur!r enl>g$ on4 ,! virtues ( *>ms 7 n only associat$ ) gems & preci\s /ones2 = my/ic lett]s1 cabali/ic inscriptions1 & o!r devices 7 among ! *ief features ( m$ival jewell]y4 ,su* devices l+]$ long aft] ! ,r5aissance ( le>n+ _h p>tially dispell$ ! my/icism ( ! ,middle ,ages2 :ile simil> sup]/itions 9 respect to preci\s /ones are ev5 n[ n entirely ext9ct1 9 spite ( ! assurances ( mod]n sci5ce4 ,illu/ration3 ,gold r+ engrav$ & enamell$ ) figures ( ! ,virg9 & ,*ild & ,/4 ,john ! ,evangeli/4 ,scotti%1 fifte5? c5tury 7,nat4 ,mus4 ( ,antiq41 ,ed9burgh74 ,,*apt] ,,xiv ,,m$i,,val ,,head-,,ornam5ts ,,& ,,necklaces ,head-ornam5ts f ! t5? to ! sixte5? c5tury belong = ! mo/ "p r to ! g5]al hi/ory ( co/ume ?an to t ( jewell]y prop]2 & x w be unnecess>y to foll[ ^? extravagances ( fa%ion :i*1 especially dur+ ! fifte5? c5tury1 7 pres5t$ by ! head-dress ( wom54 ,m g]mane to ! subject are ! fillets1 b&s1 & *aplets worn ?r\gh\t ! ,middle ,ages by wom5 :5 _! heads 7 uncov]$1 & dur+ a m limit$ p]iod by m5 also4 ,! orig9al =m ( ^! 0 a ribbon1 :i* encircl$ ! br[1 held back ! hair f ! face1 & adju/$ ! veil2 :ile wrea?s1 ei!r ( natural fl[]s or ( pla9 gold1 7 a frequ5t decoration = "y wom54 ,h5ce ! b&s or *aplets1 :i* took _! motives f ^? m simple ornam5ts1 7 made ei!r :olly ( metal 7c]cles71 or ( gold fl[]s sewn ^u an embroid]$ b& 7describ$ 9 inv5tories z *apeletz71 bo? =ms be+ enri*$ ) pe>ls & preci\s /ones4 ,! fillet lat] on became a heavy b& compos$ ( sep>ate pieces ( metal jo9$ by h+es1 & %[$ su* close resemblance to ! broad belts ( ! knights1 t 9 ! inv5tory ( ,edw>d ,,ii1 quot$ above1 tress\res & ce9tures are ent]$ toge!r "u "o head+4 ,! we>+ ( su* head-ornam5ts 0 n conf9$ exclusively to ! nobility1 = ! receipt ( a sale ( jewels by ,agnes ,*alke1 spic] ( ,london1 to a c]ta9 ,john ( ,cambridge 9 #acfc1 includes a coronal ( gold1 wr\ght ) /ones1 t is to say1 ) rubyes1 saphirs1 em]alds1 & pe>ls4#ea ,exquisite circlets set ) ^! gems are worn by ! *oir ( s++ & music-mak+ angels on ! w+s ( ! ,van ,eycks' fam\s ,gh5t ,alt>-piece 9 ! ,b]l9 ,museum4 ,! fillet1 :e!r a complete circle or h+$1 receiv$ ab\t ! f\rte5? c5tury additional enri*m5ts 9 ! =m ( trefoils1 fleurs-de-lis1 crosses1 & foliations1 erect$ on cusp+s ^u its upp] edge4 ,a simple b *>m+ example ( a circlet1 dat+ f ! f\rte5? c5tury1 is pres]v$ 9 ! ,muse du ,c9quant5aire at ,brussels4 ,x is ( silv] gilt1 =m$ ( h+$ plaques1 ea* m\nt$ ) f ?ree to f\r collets set ) pe>ls1 & ) pa/es 9 imitation ( preci\s /ones1 :ile additional ornam5ts 9 ! =m ( fleurs-de-lis are fix$ erect ^u x 7,pl4 ,,xvii1 #i74 #ea ,riley 7,h4 ,t471 ,memorials ( ,london1 p4 #cac4 ,f ! diadem ( ?is "* orig9at$ ! coronets worn by ^? ( high or noble rank2 ! use ( ^!1 amid ! c]emonies ( lat] c\rts1 cry/allis$ into a sy/em ( class privilege4 ,su* diadems or coronets approa* ! =m ( ! regal cr[n1 :i* 9 ,engl&1 z e>ly z ! elev5? c5tury1 0 enri*$ ) rays & floriations4 ,! regal cr[n1 ) :i* we are n imm$iately conc]n$1#eb by ! addition ( ar*es1 0 conv]t$ ab\t ! fifte5? c5tury into :at is te*nically kn[n z ! close cr[n4 #eb ,no attempt w "h be made to enum]ate ! v>i\s =ms ( cr[ns & coronets4 ,a g5]al outl9e ( ! subject is set =? 9 *apt] ,,xxvi ( ,mr4 ,fox-,davies' ,art ( ,h]aldry4 ,r\nd ! helmets ( knights 9 ! fifte5? c5tury ornam5tal wrea?s call$ orles 7 worn2 ^!1 orig9ally compos$ ( two b&s ( silk twi/$ toge!r 7 aft]w>ds ri*ly jewell$4 ,"o ( ! mo/ fam\s ( jewell$ hats 0 t ( ,*>les ! ,bold1 ?ickly encru/$ ) huge pe>ls & preci\s /ones1 :i* 0 captur$ by ! ,swiss aft] 8 dea? at ! battle ( ,nancy 9 #adgg4ec #ec ,lambecius1 ,bib4 ,caes4 ,v9dobon41 ,,ii1 p4 #eaf2 ,laborde1 ,ducs de ,b\rgogne1 ,pt4 #b1 ,,ii1 p4 #aac1 no4 #cajj4 ,( female ornam5ts ( ! same p]iod x ne$ only be /at$ t ! elaborate head-dresses1 su* z ! cornette1 esc(fion1 & h59--x is sometimes difficult to imag9e h[ wom5 _h suffici5t /r5g? to keep !m balanc$ on _! heads--7 pr(usely adorn$ ) pe>ls1 gold spangles1 & preci\s /ones1 & 9 "s cases ) cr[ns or cr[n-%ap$ combs ( elaborate goldwork enri*$ ) gems4 ,! ,italians1 ) m ref9$ ta/e1 seem1 z w be obs]v$ 7p4 #aga71 to h escap$ f su* extravagances soon] ?an ! re/ ( ,europe1 & to h be5 cont5t = ! mo/ "p ) a simple b&eau encircl+ ! =ehead4 ,among ! mo/ int]e/+ v>ieties ( p]sonal ornam5ts 9 ! ,middle ,ages are c]ta9 jewels or broo*es worn 9 ! hat & kn[n z enseignes4 ,f ! lead signs or ornam5ts worn by pilgrims !re 0 gradually evolv$ a special class ( jewels on :i* ! great arti/s ( ! fifte5? & sixte5? c5turies ex]cis$ _! utmo/ skill1 & :i* at ! pres5t day are among ! mo/ highly priz$ ( all e>ly articles ( p]sonal jewell]y4 ,riv]s ne> l>ge cities h suppli$ u ) mu* ( ! k we possess ( ! mann]s & habits ( ^? :o 9 =m] times dwelt ^u _! banks4 ,:5ev] dr$g+ or digg+ di/urbs ! b$s ( su* riv]s1 objects ( antiquity1 :i* seem to h gravitat$ !re1 are sure to be discov]$4 ,! municipal museum ( _m a city ( anci5t f\ndation pres]ves *oice works ( antiquity recov]$ f its riv]'s b$4 ,among ! mo/ rem>kable objects br\ght to light 9 ?is mann] are c]ta9 curi\s m$ival ornam5ts1 :i* belong to ! age t has bequea!d exce$+ly few examples ( articles = p]sonal use4 ,! ornam5ts ref]r$ to are ! small badges or signs ( lead1 giv5 or sold1 z tok5s1 to m$ival pilgrims to ! %r9es ( sa9ts or m>tyrs1 & kn[n z ,pilgrims' ,signs4 ,!y 7 obta9$ f ! att5dants at %r9es & exhibitions ( relics1 :o kept ready a l>ge v>iety be>+ ! effigy or device ( "s p>ticul> sa9t1 or ! symbol t _h ref]5ce to 8 acts ( wor%ip4 ,ea* sign or tok5 0 pi]c$ ) holes1 or m frequ5tly _h a p9 ca/ 9 "o piece ) x1 mak+ x available z a broo*4 ,x 0 ?us fa/5$ to ! hat or o!r portion ( ! pilgrim's dress z a te/imony ( 8 hav+ visit$ ! p>ticul> %r9e indicat$ by ! tok54 ,^! badges1 :i* date f ab\t ! ?irte5? to ! fifte5? c5tury1 7 manufactur$ at ! *ur*es or mona/]ies to :i* pilgrimages 7 made4 ,m\lds = ca/+ !m are pres]v$ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum & ! ,guildhall ,museum2 & a =ge 0 f\nd at ,wals+ham ,priory :]e ! sacri/an melt$ ! metals employ$ = _! manufacture4#ed #ed ,sev]al writ]s on ,pilgrims' ,signs /ate t a furnace de/9$ = ! same purpose may /ill be se5 9 an upp] *amb] 9 ,cant]bury ,ca!dral4 ,inquiry on ! spot has fail$ to confirm ! tru? ( ?is /atem5t4 ,! furnace 9 "q has be5 us$ solely = ! purpose ( ca/+ leadwork = repair+ ! ro(4 ,! badges 7 probably made some:]e 9 ! ,ca!dral prec9ts4 ,x w be outside ! pres5t purpose to enum]ate all ! v>ieties ( =m assum$ by ^! int]e/+ & hi/orically mo/ valuable objects4 ,important collections ( !m are pres]v$ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum & ,guildhall ,museum 9 ,london1 & 9 ! ,muse ,cluny1 ,p>is 7,pl4 ,,xvii1 #a-d74 ,9 ,engl& ! mo/ popul> relics 7 ^? ( ,our ,lady ( ,wals+ham ,priory1 & p>ticul>ly ^? ( ,/4 ,?omas ( ,cant]bury1 ^: signs1 accord+ to a /atem5t ( ,giraldus ,cambr5sis1 7 worn z e>ly z ! twelf? c5tury4 ,! anonym\s au?or ( ! supplem5t to ,*auc]'s ,cant]bury ,tales speaks ( ! pur*ase ( signs by ,*auc]'s p>ty on ! occasion ( _! pilgrimage to ,cant]bury1 & rem>ks t on _! dep>ture f ! ,ca!dral !y sett _! signys ^u _! h$es1 & som ^u _! capp4 ,& ,erasmus1 9 8 ,colloquy ( ! pilgrimage = religion's sake1 notes t pilgrims 7 cov]$ on e side ) images ( t9 & lead4 ,judg+ f ! numb] & v>iety ( ! badges relat+ to ! murd]$ ar*bi%op1 ,becket1 8 %r9e mu/ h enjoy$ a widespread popul>ity1 ?\gh ! scallop-%ell ( ,/4 ,james ( ,compo/ella 0 p]haps m univ]sally recognis$ z a pilgrim's sign ?an any o!r4 ,^! signs or signacula 7 worn n only on a pilgrimage1 b also =m$ a cu/om>y decoration = ! hat4 ,"s1 ev5 9 e>ly times1 p]haps z e>ly z ! ?irte5? c5tury1 ?\gh p>tak+ ( a religi\s "*1 d n seem to h _h ref]5ce to any p>ticul> %r9e1 & ref]r$ simply to incid5ts 9 popul> religi\s leg5ds4 ,o!rs 7 m]ely symbols or emblems2 yet1 l ! majority ( m$ival tr9kets1 !y ne>ly all display$ religi\s motives & 7 suppos$ to possess talismanic p[]s4 ,l\is ,,xi1 ! cruel & sup]/iti\s ,k+ ( ,france1 commonly wore su* signs1 p>ticul>ly ^? ( ! celebrat$ ,notre-,dame d',embrun1 /uck r\nd 8 hat2 & on a visit to ,h5ry1 ,k+ ( ,ca/ile1 he wore1 s ,philip de ,com9es in=ms u1 a v old hat ) lead5 images ^u x4 ,x is v evid5t t we h "h ! orig9 ( ! hat-ornam5ts or enseignes ( gold & silv]1 & enri*$ ) preci\s /ones & enamels1 :i*1 com+ fir/ into use 9 ! fifte5? c5tury1 became extremely popul> 9 ! sixte5?1 & 7 worn on almo/ e man's hat1 & sometimes on ^? ( wom51 until ! middle ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,l ^? obta9$ at ! %r9es1 !y bore at fir/ ! figure ( a sa9t--g5]ally a patron sa9t--or a figure ( ! ,virg94 ,( signs su* z ^!1 "s came to repres5t ! actual badge ( ! we>] or ( "s "o to :om he 0 affectionately atta*$1 :ile o!rs took ! =m ( badges ( liv]y1 & 7 worn 9 ! hats ( ! reta9]s ( great families4 ,philip de ,com9es records t ,"l ,b\r*i]1 ,gov]nor ( ,calais1 #adgj1 wore a ragg$ /aff ( gold ^u 8 bonnet4 ,?is 0 ! badge ( ! ,e>l ( ,w>wick1 & all 8 att5dants _h ragg$ /aves likewise4 ,a lead5 enseigne ( a be> & ragg$ /aff 7! ,h\se ( ,w>wick71 a cr[n$ o/ri* fea!r 7,duke ( ,norfolk71 a h\nd 7,talbot1 ,e>l ( ,%rewsbury71 & a dolph9 7badge ( ! ,dauph9--aft]w>ds ,l\is ,,xi--& 8 faction1 ! ,armagnacs71 toge!r ) o!rs ( a simil> nature1 are 9 ! ,briti% ,museum 7,pl4 ,,xvii1 #e-h74 ,! badges ( ! ,k+s ( ,engl& 7 employ$ 9 ! same mann]3 & among ! ,briti% ,museum collection is a h>t lodg$--! badge ( ,ri*>d ,,ii1 & 9 ! ,guildhall a broom-pod 7g5i/a7 ( ! ,plantag5ets1 & a cr[n ( fleurs-de-lis--! badge ( ,h5ry ,v4 ,a consid]able numb] ( small %ield-%ap$ bronze & copp] p5dants1 enamell$ ) coats ( arms1 & hav+ a r+ above = susp5sion1 seem also to h s]v$ z badges4 ,!re is ! possibility t "s 7 worn by ! s]vants ( nobility z enseignes ^u ! hat1 or p]haps on ! left arm or brea/4 ,b ! majority appe> to h be5 employ$ = ! decoration ( horse-h>ness4#ee #ee ,comp>e1 ,an ,esmail d',arragon1 by ,a4 ,van de ,put 7,burl+ton ,magaz9e1 ,,viii1 p4 #dba1 #aijf2 ,x1 p4 #bfa1 #aijg74 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xvii ,,m$i,,val ,,head-,,ornam5ts ,m$ival hat-badges ( gold are ( extreme r>ity4 ,! ,franks ,beque/ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum conta9s a *oice example4 ,x is a fifte5?-c5tury ,flemi% jewel ( gold1 repres5t+ a pelican 9 h] piety /&+ ^u a scroll1 & set ) a ruby & a small po9t$ diamond 7,pl4 ,,xvii1 #aa74 ,9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum is a circul> gold enseigne ( op5-"w enri*$ ) ,go?ic foliations4 ,! out] rim is set ) sev5 small rubies4 ,9 ! c5tre is an antique onyx cameo repres5t+ a lion4 ,x is ,spani% "w ( ! second half ( ! fifte5? c5tury 7,pl4 ,,xvii1 #aj74 ,^! two jewels are cle>ly hat-ornam5ts2 b x is (t5 difficult to di/+ui% betwe5 a broo* or n\*e int5d$ to be worn ^u ! dress & a hat-broo*1 ?\gh ! latt] c1 z a rule1 be di/+ui%$ by its =m or by its subject4 ,! enseigne 0 sometimes employ$ l a broo* = fa/5+ a plume decoration1 b z a rule s]v$ z an indep5d5t ornam5t1 & appe>s on ! pa9t+s1 sculpture1 & tape/ry ( ! fifte5? c5tury atta*$ to ! side ( ! head-ge>4 ,x became a jewel ( /ill great] importance 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 & w be fur!r dealt ) among ! jewell]y ( ! ,r5aissance4 ,! talismanic prop]ties associat$ ) ! signacula procur$ at ! %r9es 7 ext5d$ to _m objects ( base metal1 z broo*es & f+]-r+s1 :i* _h be5 plac$ 9 contact ) relics ( sa9ts1 or bless$ at _! %r9es4 ,broo*es & r+s also ( gold & silv] be> talismanic inscriptions4 ,a common inscription is ! names ( ! ,?ree ,k+s--z on ! ,gl5lyon broo*--:i* orig9at$ 9 pilgrimages to ! %r9e ( ! ,k+s ( ! ,ea/ 9 ! *ur* ( ,sant' ,eu/orgio at ,milan1 or m probably to t 9 ,cologne ,ca!dral4 ,! names ( ! ,?ree ,k+s ( ,colle9 7 consid]$ to be a *>m aga9/ epilepsy or ! fall+ sickness4 ,_m p]sonal ornam5ts ( base metal1 h[ev]1 are q unconnect$ ) any religi\s practice or ) pilgrims' signs2 = objects ( pewt] are (t5 m]ely replicas ( m preci\s jewels 9 gold & silv]1 & mu/ h be5 worn by ! poor] classes4 ,! fact t sev]al are plat$ or wa%$ ) silv] %[s t !y 7 int5d$ to pass = ! real objects4 ,yet !y are ( consid]able importance1 s9ce we f9d among !m types ( ornam5ts :i* d n exi/ 9 ! preci\s metals4 ,x may be sugge/$ t "s 7 made z models = real articles ( jewell]y2 b we are1 un=tunately1 n 9 possession ( evid5ce 7su* z c be produc$ 9 connection ) ! jewell]y ( ! ,r5aissance7 :i* c (f] any likelihood t ?is is actually ! case ) ^! m$ival ornam5ts4 ,,e>r+s ,?\gh common 9 ! ,m]ov+ian & ,c>lov+ian epo*1 e>r+s appe> to h be5 worn only to a limit$ ext5t1 & t at ! comm5cem5t ( ! p]iod at pres5t "u discussion4 ,p5dants =m$ ( quadrilat]al prisms set on ea* side ) cabo*on g>nets & hung ) small /r+s ( g>net beads are atta*$ to ! e>s ( ! t5?-c5tury figure ( ,/4 ,foy 9 ! treasury at ,conques2 ?\gh x is n impossible t ^!1 l _m ( ! gems t adorn ! /atue1 may be ( e>li] workman%ip4 ,t ! ,byzant9e /yle ( e>r+1 ( cresc5t =m1 0 worn dur+ ! elev5? & twelf? c5turies is evid5t f a twelf?-c5tury bronze ew]1 9 ! %ape ( a head ( a woman1 ( ,flemi% "w1 9 ! ,museum ( ,budape/4#ef ,e>r+s1 h[ev]1 enjoy$ no great popul>ity dur+ ! ,middle ,ages1 & ! cause ( ?is mu/ be trac$ to ! fa%ion :i* prescrib$ = wom5 a /yle ( coiffure by :i* ! hair fell d[n at ! sides1 or 0 cov]$ by a veil1 :i* w\ld h effectively hidd5 any ornam5ts = ! e>4 ,x 0 only at ! end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury t fa%ion aga9 all[$ ! hair to be worn high4 ,p5d5t r+s ( gold = ladies' e>s are m5tion$ 9 ! ,roman de la ,rose1 & /atues occasionally exhibit %ort e>r+s1 pe>ls atta*$ to ! lobe ( ! e>1 or /ones 9 ! =m ( drops4 ,e>r+s1 inde$1 did n come into v common use until ! close ( ! fifte5? or ! beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 #ef ,figur$ 9 ,exposition de ,budape/1 #ahhd1 ,*efs-d'oeuvre d'orfvr]ie1 ,i1 ,pl4 ,i4 ,!re is a reproduction ( ?is rem>kable specim5 ( ,d9&]ie 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4 ,,necklaces ,,& ,,coll>s ,! cu/om ( we>+ necklaces & neck-*a9s 0 mu* m limit$ dur+ ! ,middle ,ages ?an x _h be5 9 antiquity & at ! "t ( ! great migrations4 ,wom5's necklaces c h>dly be prov$ to h be5 9 g5]al use be=e ! end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 & dur+ ! ,middle ,ages seldom atta9$ ! exagg]at$ /yle !y exhibit$ at ! p]iod ( ! ,r5aissance4 ,!y consi/$ mo/ly ( plait$ cords ( gold wire1 & probably ( s+le or d\ble *a9s ( pe>ls4 ,^! orig9ally encircl$ ! ?roat1 b at a lat] date 7 worn m ^u ! brea/4 ,?\gh _m =ms ( p]sonal ornam5t are m5tion$ 9 e>ly wills & inv5tories1 we r>ely meet ) a ref]5ce to ! necklace until ! f\rte5? c5tury2 nor is x pictur$ on monum5tal effigies or brasses until ! beg9n+ ( ! c5tury foll[+4 ,if worn at all prior to ?is date1 x mu/ simply h s]v$ ! purpose ( support+ p5dants ( v>i\s =ms kn[n z p5tacols4 ,^! neck-*a9s1 or coll>s z !y 7 t]m$1 soon began to receive additional enri*m5t1 & ! inv5tories ( ! fifte5? c5tury conta9 frequ5t descriptions ( necklets adorn$ ) enamels & preci\s /ones4 ,eleanor1 ,c\ntess ( ,arundel 7#adee71 bequea!d to h] daught] a gold5 coll> = ! neck1 ) a jewel set ) preci\s /ones hang+ !reat4 ,! fa%ion = ri* necklaces 0 especially 9 vogue at ! luxuri\s ,c\rt ( ! ,dukes ( ,burgundy2 nor _h ! ,c\rt ( ,ri*>d ,,ii be5 beh9dh& 9 ! display ( ?is species ( ornam5t1 = ! magnific5t w$d+ pres5ts ( 8 wife1 ,isabella ( ,france1 includ$ a coll> ( gold set ) preci\s /ones ( imm5se value4 ,! ^w c>canet seems to h come into use ab\t ?is "t = ri* necklaces ( preci\s /ones1 & to h be5 appli$ a little lat] to ! b&s ( jewels commonly entw9$ 9 ladies' hair4 ,?\gh nev] s g5]ally worn z 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 a consid]able numb] ( ^! jewell$ ornam5ts are repres5t$ 9 ! exquisite pa9t+s ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,"o ( ! mo/ elaborate ( all is ! sup]b gold necklet1 brilliantly enamell$ ) small & _m-col\r$ fl[]s1 %[n on ! portrait ( ,m>ia1 wife ( ,pi]antonio ,b>oncelli1 9 ! ,uffizi ,gall]y at ,flor5ce1 by an unkn[n ,flemi% pa9t] ( ! latt] "p ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,close by1 9 ! same gall]y1 is ,van d] ,goes' celebrat$ tripty*1 pres5t$ to ! ,sp$ale di ,santa ,m>ia ,nuova by ,tommaso ,port9>i1 ag5t ( ! ,m$ici 9 ,bruges4 ,^u ! "r w+ is ,m>ia1 wife ( ! donor1 ) h] daught]4 ,! =m] we>s a magnific5t necklace ( exquisite design1 its int]lac+ goldwork %ap$ into ! =m ( roses enamell$ r$1 :ite1 & blue1 ea* set respectively ) a sapphire1 a ruby1 & a l>ge pe>l4 ,! latt] is adorn$ ) a necklace compos$ ( a d\ble r[ ( pe>ls connect$ by oval jewell$ ornam5ts2 b5ea? is hung a trefoil-%ap$ p5dant set ) rubies1 to :i* is atta*$ a l>ge drop-pe>l 7p4 #aag74 ,a precisely simil> ornam5t is se5 9 ano!r "w by ,van d] ,goes1 pa9t$ ab\t #adgc--! well-kn[n portrait ( ,m>g>et1 que5 ( ,james ,,iii ( ,scotl&1 n[ at ,holyrood4#eg ,?is picture 0 probably execut$ 9 ,fl&]s f mat]ial suppli$ by ! donor1 & ! arti/ appe>s to h adorn$ ,que5 ,m>g>et ) ! same beautiful necklace1 probably ( ,flor5t9e workman%ip1 :i* he _h se5 r\nd ! neck ( ,signor9a ,port9>i4 #eg ,%aw 7,h471 ,dresses & decorations1 ,pl4 #fj4 ,jane ,%ore1 ! beautiful & un=tunate mi/ress ( ,edw>d ,,iv1 & wife ( ! ri* jewell] ( ,lomb>d ,/reet1 is repres5t$ 9 h] two portraits1 "o at ,k+'s ,college1 ,cambridge1 & ! o!r at ,eton1 we>+ elaborate necklaces4 ,ar\nd h] ?roat are two /r+s ( pe>ls1 ) a necklet bel[ ( circul> pieces ( ,go?ic patt]n1 support+ a loz5ge-%ap$ p5dant ( simil> design adorn$ ) pe>ls4 ,among sculptur$ repres5tations ( ! necklet ! mo/ int]e/+ is t on ! monum5t ( ,sir ,john ,crosby 7d4 #adge7 & 8 wife 9 ,/4 ,hel5's ,*ur*1 ,bi%opsgate1 :]e ! latt] we>s a v h&some necklace ( roses1 to :i* is atta*$ a clu/] ( ?ree roses ) ?ree p5dants bel[4 ,sir ,john's coll> is some:at simil>ly =m$ ( rosette-%ap$ ornam5ts4 ,an e>ly in/ance ( a heavy neck-*a9 ( gold1 worn ^u ! brea/1 is to be se5 ^u ! fam\s tape/ry1 consid]$ to repres5t ,h5ry ,,vi & 8 ,que51 9 ,/4 ,m>y's ,hall1 ,cov5try4 ,coll>s ( extraord9>y ri*ness seem to h be5 worn by ,h5ry ,,iv2 = among ! miscellane\s docum5ts pres]v$ at ,/4 ,paul's ,ca!dral#eh is a li/ ( v>i\s jewels set ) diamonds bo? l>ge & small1 ) balas rubies1 sapphires1 & clu/]s ( pe>ls1 :i* 7 to be employ$ = mak+ coll>s = ! k+ & que54 ,! ,inv5tories ( ! ,ex*equ] conta9 frequ5t ref]5ce to :at is t]m$ ! ,iklyngton ,col]4 ,?is magnific5t coll>1 :i* 0 frequ5tly pawn$ by ,h5ry ,,vi1 0 enri*$ ) f\r rubies1 f\r l>ge sapphires1 ?irty-two great pe>ls1 & fifty-?ree pe>ls ( a less] sort4#ei #eh ,hi/4 ,,mss4 ,comm41 ,,ix1 p4 #ef4 #ei ,kal5d>s & ,inv5tories1 ,,ii1 p4 #afe1 etc4 ,9 addition to ! purely ornam5tal necklaces1 coll>s or *a9s ( liv]y--be>+ ! h]aldic devices ( ! day--7 assum$ by v>i\s royal & noble families1 & 7 be/[$ z m>ks ( fav\r or fri5d%ip on p]sons ( v>i\s ranks1 & bo? sexes1 :o wore !m z badges ( adh]5ce to ^? families4 ,an in/ance ( ! be/[al ( a *a9 ( ?is k9d occurr$ 9 #adgg aft] ! siege ( ,quesnoy by ,l\is ,,xi1 :o1 witness+ a great feat ( gallantry on ! "p ( ,ra\l de ,lannoy1 is report$ to h plac$ on 8 neck a *a9 ( great value1 & to h ?us wittily address$ him3 ,mon ami1 v\s tes trop furieux en un combat2 il faut v\s en*an]1 c> je ne veux po9t v\s p]dre1 dsirant me s]vir encore de v\s plusieurs fois4 ,ri*>d ,,ii1 z %[n by ! ,e>l ( ,pembroke's rem>kable picture ( t mon>* at ,wilton1 wore1 9 addition to 8 device ! :ite h>t1 a coll> ( broom-pods4 ,h5ry ,,iv employ$ ! well-kn[n coll> ( ,,ss1 d]iv$ f 8 fa!r ,john ( ,gaunt4 ,! coll> ( ,edw>d ,,iv 0 compos$ ( two ( 8 badges1 ! sun 9 its spl5d\r1 & ! :ite rose2 :ile a ?ird1 ! :ite lion ( ,m>*1 0 add$ z a p5dant4 ,ri*>d ,,iii reta9$ ! ,yorki/ coll>1 sub/itut+ = ! lion p5dant a bo>4#fj ,private family coll>s 7 also worn1 & an e>ly in/ance ( "o occurs 9 ! brass ( ,?omas ,"l ,b]keley 7#adag7 9 ! *ur* ( ,wootton-"u-,edge1 ,gl\ce/]%ire2 ! b& r\nd ! neck be+ *>g$ ) m]maids1 ! badge ( ! ,b]keleys4 #fj ,ar*ologia1 ,,xxxix1 p4 #bfd4 ,! ,,ss coll> is ! be/ kn[n ( all4 ,x is compos$ ( ! lett] ,s 9 gold repeat$ indef9itely1 ei!r fix$ on velvet or "s mat]ial1 or =m+ ! l9ks ( a *a94 ,! lett]s are g5]ally unit$ by knots2 !y sometimes t]m9ate ) portcullises & h a p5d5t rose4 ,! coll> is /ill worn by ! ,"l ,*ief ,ju/ice1 ! ,"l ,mayor ( ,london1 & ! *ief h]alds--t belong+ to ! ,"l ,mayor be+ an orig9al & beautiful example ( ,engli% jewell]y ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,despite all t has be5 writt5 ^u ! ,,ss coll> no conclusive explanation has be5 (f]$ z to its orig9 & mean+4#fa ,sev]al repres5tations ( liv]y coll>s appe> ^u monum5tal effigies ( ! latt] half ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 & !re is frequ5t m5tion ( !m 9 ! inv5tories ( ! same p]iod1 b1 ) ! exception ( ! ,,ss coll>1 !y are n met ) at all 9 ! sixte5? c5tury4 #fa ,mr4 ,h>t%orne 7,ar*4 ,j\rn41 ,,xxxix1 p4 #cff7 consid]s ! orig9 ( ! lett]s ,,ss--p> excell5ce ! crux antiqu>iorum1 he t]ms x--to lie betwe5 ! words ,s5es*allus1 ,s\v]ayne1 & ,sanctus1 & ( ^! he appe>s to be 9 fav\r ( ! fir/4 ,illu/ration3 ,necklace worn by ! daught] ( ,tommaso ,port9>i 9 ,van d] ,goes' tripty* 9 ! ,uffizi ,gall]y1 ,flor5ce4 ,,*apt] ,,xv ,,m$i,,val ,,p5dants1 ,,ros>ies1 ,,& ,,pom&]s ,! we>+ ( religi\s emblems 9 ! =m ( p5dants by ! ,*ri/ians ( ! ,middle ,ages 0 possibly1 9 ! fir/ place1 ! unconsci\s p]petuation ( pagan sup]/ition4 ,! dem& = a conv5i5t mode ( c>ry+ a reliqu>y may acc\nt 9 "s degree = ! use ( necklaces 9 e>ly times4 ,relics ( ! sa9ts & ( ! ,passion ( our ,"l 7 mo/ eag]ly s\ght aft] by m$ival ,*ri/5dom1 & :5ev] a relic ( unusual importance 0 obta9$1 all ! res\rces ( ! art ( ! "t 7 employ$ to give x a wor?y sett+4 ,! mo/ fam\s ( e>ly p5d5t reliqu>ies 0 t worn by ! ,emp]or ,*>lemagne1 :i* conta9$ relics f ! ,cr[n ( ,?orns & ! ,true ,cross1 pres5t$ to him by ,h>\n al-,ras*id4 ,! reliqu>y 0 buri$ ) him 9 #had1 & f\nd at ! op5+ ( 8 tomb at ,aix-la-,*apelle 9 #aafi4 ,9 #ahjd x 0 giv5 to ! ,emp]or ,napoleon by ! cl]gy ( ,aix1 & 0 aft]w>ds ! prop]ty ( ,napoleon ,,iii2 b x disappe>$ dur+ ! tr\bl\s times t t]m9at$ ! ,second ,empire4 ,! relics 7 enclos$ "u a l>ge sapphire magnific5tly set 9 gold & preci\s /ones#fb 7,pl4 ,,xviii1 #d74 ,ano!r hi/orical relic ( ! e>ly ,middle ,ages 0 ! enamell$ gold cross susp5d$ f a *a91 :i* 0 /ol5 f ! tomb ( ,edw>d ! ,confessor 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey 9 #afhe & giv5 to ,james ,,ii4 ,x 0 only lo/ sight ( 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! n9ete5? c5tury4#fc #fb ,see ,jahrb*] des ,v]e9s von ,alt]?umsfreund5 9 ,rhe9l&e1 ,,xxxix1 p4 #bgb4 ,bonn1 #ahff4 #fc ,wall 7,j4 ,c471 ,tombs ( ! ,k+s ( ,engl&1 p4 #aig4 ,evelyn's ,di>y1 ,sept4 #af1 #afhe4 ,portable reliqu>ies 9 =m] times 7 (t5 made ( two plates ( rock cry/al or o!r transp>5t /ones h+$ toge!r s z to =m a box4 ,an exquisite example ( ?is /yle ( ornam5t1 & "o ( ! mo/ rem>kable m$ival jewels1 is ! s-call$ reliqu>y ( ,/4 ,l\is 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,x is ( gold1 set ) two l>ge bean-%ap$ ame?y/s :i* act z cov]s to an inn] case ) a lid1 enclos+ :at purports to be a spike f ! ,cr[n ( ,?orns4 ,! back ( ?is receptacle1 z well z ! insides ( ! cov]s1 is enri*$ ) m9ute transluc5t enamels repres5t+ ! ,crucifixion & o!r sc5es f ! ,passion & ! life ( ,*ri/ 7,pl4 ,,xviii1 #e74 ,! jewel is said to h be5 giv5 by ,/4 ,l\is 7:o b\ght ! ,cr[n ( ,?orns f ,baldw91 ,k+ ( ,j]usalem7 to a k+ ( ,aragon1 b ! /yle ( ! "w is some:at lat] ?an ! "t ( ,/4 ,l\is1 & dates f ab\t ! ye> #acaj4 ,x 0 =m]ly 9 ! collection ( ,b>on ,pi*on1 & 0 pres5t$ to ! ,briti% ,museum by ,mr4 ,george ,salt+ 9 #aijb4 ,! p5d5t ornam5ts ( ! ,middle ,ages n only s]v$ z receptacles = relics b also took ! =m ( crosses1 m$allions1 votive tablets1 & monograms4 ,?\gh ^! d n atta9 ! same importance z ! p5dants ( ! ,r5aissance1 _! extraord9>y v>iety is prov$ by ! inv5tories ( ! ?irte5? to ! fifte5? c5tury1 :ile _! beauty is atte/$ by ! few examples t h =tunately be5 pres]v$4 ,small votive tablets1 t is to say dipty*s or tripty*s ) h+$ w+s1 7 exce$+ly popul> z p]sonal ornam5ts1 judg+ by _! frequ5t occurr5ce 9 ! inv5tories "u ! title ( tableau or tabulet4 ,!y 7 susp5d$ f ! girdle or neck-*a94 ,"s are pa9t$ ) delicate transluc5t enamels1 o!rs conta9 figures 9 high relief wr\ght 9 metal1 or c>v+s 9 boxwood ( m9ute dim5sions4 ,! la/ are g5]ally ,flemi%1 :ile ! o!rs ( :i* !re are sev]al spl5did examples 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum1 are mo/ly ( ,fr5* or ( ,engli% workman%ip4 ,a v rem>kable silv]-gilt p5dant 9 ! =m ( ! ,devil ( temptation1 ) ! =bidd5 fruit 9 "o h& & a crozi]1 signify+ p[]1 9 ! o!r1 is %[n on ,plate ,,xix1 #i4 ,x is ,burgundian "w ( ! second half ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 & is ! prop]ty ( ,mrs4 ,p]cy ,macquoid4 ,an int]e/+ class ( p5dants is =m$ by a some:at ext5sive s]ies ( silv] & silv]-gilt ornam5ts produc$ by ,g]man craftsm5 ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,! ,national ,museum at ,muni*1 :]e sev]al f9e examples ( ?is k9d are pres]v$1 possesses "o ( m ?an ord9>y int]e/4 ,x is ( silv]-gilt1 ab\t five in*es 9 l5g?1 compos$ ( elaborate ,go?ic trac]y1 9 %ape n unlike ! tall ,go?ic tab]nacles ( ,s\? ,g]many1 ( :i* t by ,adam ,kraft 9 ,/4 ,lawr5ce's ,*ur* at ,nuremb]g is p]haps ! f9e/ example4 ,a ni*e on ea* ( its f\r sides conta9s ! figure ( a sa9t & above1 half hidd5 among ! trac]y1 are f\r female figures4 ,! jewel is surm\nt$ by ! ,virg9 & ,*ild1 & has ?ree r+s above = susp5sion & "o bel[ 7,pl4 ,,xix1 #a74 ,o!r examples ( ,s\? ,g]man goldsmi?'s "w ( ! fifte5? & e>ly sixte5? c5tury take ! =m ( small p5d5t *>ms pictur+ "s religi\s !me4 ,! figure ( a sa9t 0 naturally a fav\rite subject1 s9ce x 0 suppos$ to possess special prophylactic p[]s4 ,! v>iety ( ! subjects ?us repres5t$ c be admirably judg$ f an important s]ies ( su* p5dants at ,s\? ,k5s+ton4 ,9 addition to ^!1 :i* are mo/ly ( ca/ silv]1 o!r p5dants ( ! same p]iod include silv] plaques1 niello$1 engrav$1 or 9 relief2 & likewise f9e cameos or reliefs ( "m-(-pe>l1 & c>v+s 9 ivory & wood1 set 9 coronets ( silv]-gilt4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xviii ,,m$i,,val ,,p5dants 7,,reliqu>ies1 ,,etc47 ,m$ival neck-p5dants 71 z has be5 obs]v$1 kn[n z p5tacols4 ,9 ! inv5tory ( ,edw>d ,,iii 9 #accifd we f9d a p5tacol compos$ ( a l>ge ,scot* pe>l 7p]le d',escoce7 & an image ( ,our ,lady 9 enamel2 & un p5tacol dor od4 iiij4 petites am]aldes et iiij4 petites rubies environ1 et une camahue en mylieu4 ,9 m$ival inv5tories & wills ! ,lat9 ^w monile signifi$ n only a necklace1 b jewels hung at ! neck4 ,! same t]m 0 also employ$ = ! morse1 p>ticul>ly :5 ! latt] _h a r+ = susp5sion4 ,_m p5dants g5]ally provid$ ) quatrefoil r+s1 come f ,s\? ,g]many 7l "o %[n on ,plate ,,xviii1 #a7 & especially f ,bohemia--!re is a good collection ( !m 9 ! ca!dral treasury ( ,prague4#fe ,! majority are silv]-gilt1 & set ) a plaque ( "m-(-pe>l or cry/al1 & are usually holl[1 to conta9 relics4 ,! t]m monile 0 fur!r appli$ to broo*es or n\*es2 & ! n\*es describ$ 9 su* detail 9 ! ,engli% inv5tories ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 :i* w be m5tion$ lat] :5 ! subject ( broo*es is dealt )1 may 9 "p h be5 employ$ z ornam5ts = ! necklace4 #fd ,kal5d>s etc41 ,,iii1 pp4 #ahe1 #ahh4 #fe ,podlaha 7,a471 & ,sittl] 7,e471 ,d] ,doms*atz 9 ,prag1 pp4 #aac-acb4 #aijc4 ,v>i\s monilia or p5dants1 conta9+ small relics1 v]ses f ! ,bible1 ! names ( ,*ri/ or ! ,virg9 writt5 ^u vellum or ^u metal1 & p]haps also anci5t magic spells--all possess+ ! virtues ( talismans1 7 worn by *a9s or cords r\nd ! neck1 & 9 "s in/ances v likely hidd5 "u ! upp] g>m5t4 ,! e>ly ,*ur*1 9 _m an edict1 decl>$ itself aga9/ ?is =m ( sup]/ition1 yet su* p5dants or phylact]ies--a t]m appli$ to any amulet worn ab\t ! p]son aga9/ evil ( all k9ds--appe> to h be5 ext5sively us$4 ,ano!r & popul> p5dant f ! f\rte5? to ! sixte5? c5tury1 :i* is frequ5tly cit$ 9 inv5tories1 b n[ r>ely met )1 takes ! =m ( a small circul> box or capsule be>+ 9 front an ,agnus ,dei 9 niello or rep\ss1 surr\nd$ by a cord$ edg+4 ,su* boxes 7 int5d$ = ! pres]vation ( a r\ndel ( wax m\ld$ f ! rema9s ( ! ,pas*al c&le at ,rome ) an impression ( ! sacr$ ,lamb1 & bless$ by ! ,pope = di/ribution to ! fai?ful4 ,! cases1 ( silv]-gilt1 h occasionally a cov]+ ( transp>5t horn on ! back & front4 ,an example ( ?is k9d1 ( fifte5?-c5tury ,g]man workman%ip1 is 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum 7,pl4 ,,xix1 #c74 ,! wax x conta9s be>s ! "n ( ,pope ,urban ,,vi 7#acgh-achi74 ,an orig9al /amp ( bronze1 ( ,italian orig91 dat+ f ! f\rte5? c5tury1 :i* 0 us$ = mak+ ^! wax impressions1 is pres]v$ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum along ) o!r m\lds = ca/+ m$als & small articles ( jewell]y4 ,9 addition to ! preci\s & semi-preci\s /ones already m5tion$1 o!r objects1 acc\nt$ specially efficaci\s = c]ta9 purposes1 7 worn4 ,! p]es de eagle1 also call$ tites1 suppos$ to be f\nd 9 ! ne/ ( ! eagle1 7 p>ticul>ly valuable dur+ *ildbir?4 ,glossopetr1 ! fossilis$ tee? ( c]ta9 k9ds ( %>k1 :i* pass$ z s]p5ts' tee?1 7 mu* us$1 z well z primitive arr[heads4 ,!y 7 hung r\nd ! neck ( infants 9 ! belief t !y assi/$ d5tition & kept (f frights4 ,( great value also 0 ! bezo> /one1 :i*1 l glossopetr1 at "o "t occupi$ a prom95t place 9 ph>macopoeia4 ,coral1 :i* has always be5 popul>1 is fir/ m5tion$ 9 ,engli% wills & inv5tories 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,x 0 us$ = ros>ies1 &1 above all1 z a *>m--a r+ ( gold or silv] be+ atta*$ to its /alk4 ,! ,romans ti$ little bran*es ( x r\nd _! *ildr5's necks to w>d (f ! evil eye2 & ! infant ,savi\r 9 _m an e>ly ,italian picture is repres5t$ we>+ a piece ( coral 9 a simil> mann]4#ff #ff ,a relic ( ?is sup]/ition /ill exi/s 9 ! coral baubles hung ) bells1 ) :i* infants are aid$ 9 cutt+ _! tee?4 ,a fe> ( poison1 common = c5turies 9 royal c\rts1 0 responsible = ! cu/om ( te/+ meats & dr9ks by me?ods f\nd$ ^u c]ta9 anci5t & gr\ndless beliefs4 ,9 ord] to neutralise or detect ! pres5ce ( poison1 c]ta9 objects 7 plac$ 9 contact ) food or 7 dipp$ into liquids4 ,! t\*+-pieces 7t\s*es7 or pro(s 7espreuves7 employ$ = ! purpose1 & consid]$ especially efficaci\s aga9/ poison1 7 toad/ones1 glossopetr1 s]p5t9e1 jasp]1 agate & p>ticul>ly ! unicorn's horn4 ,:at 0 foi/$ ^u ! cr$ul\s public z ! horn ( ! fabl$ animal 0 9 reality ! horn or tusk ( a fi%--! n>:al or sea-unicorn ( ! nor!rn seas4 ,be+ an object ( v great value1 ! horn 0 only occasionally kept entire1 l ! "o pres]v$ to ?is day at ,new ,college1 ,ox=d4 ,x 0 m usually cut into pieces & us$ z pro(s4 ,an angry unicorne 9 8 full c>e] ,*>ge ) too swift foot a jewell] ,t wat*$ him = ! treasure ( 8 br[1 ,& ere he c\ld get %elt] ( a tree1 ,nail him ) 8 ri* antl] to ! e>?4#fg #fg ,quot$ f ,bussy d',amboise 7#afjg7 by ,malone1 comm5t+ on ! passage1 ,unicorns may be betray'd ) trees 7,julius ,cs>1 ,,ii1 i74 ,^! & o!r objects1 :5 worn ^u ! p]son1 z 0 g5]ally ! practice1 7 m\nt$ at "o end1 or surr\nd$ by a claw-l b& ( silv]4 ,ano!r object :i* occupi$ an important position 9 ! ,middle ,ages & (t5 receiv$ special att5tion at ! h&s ( ! goldsmi? 0 ! ros>y4 ,x 0 susp5d$ occasionally f ! neck1 b 0 m (t5 worn ^u ! wri/1 at ! girdle1 or atta*$ to a f+] r+1 & 0 =m$ ( a /r+ ( beads ( v>i\s sizes & mat]ials repres5t+ ,aves1 ,pat]no/]s1 & ,glorias3 ea* bead receiv+ ! "n ( ! pray] x repres5t$4 ,! ros>y1 z at ! pres5t day1 0 divid$ into decades ( ,aves1 ea* decade be+ prec$$ by a ,pat]no/] & foll[$ by a ,gloria4 ,! mat]ials ( :i* !y 7 compos$ are well illu/rat$ 9 ! inv5tory#fh ( ! jewels belong+ to ,adam ,l$y>d1 a ,london jewell] 9 #acha4 ,x includes3 #d sets ( pat]no/]s ( :ite amb]2 #af sets ( pat]no/]s ( amb]2 #e sets ( pat]no/]s ( coral & geet jet2 #f sets ( aves ( geet1 & pat]no/]s ( silv]-gilt2 #ch sets ( aves ( geet1 ) gaudees ( silv]-gilt2 #ad sets ( aves ( blue glass1 ) pat]no/]s ( silv]-gilt2 #bh sets ( pat]no/]s ( geet2 #ae sets ( pat]no/]s ( maz]2 & #e sets ( pat]no/]s ( :ite bone = *ildr54 #fh ,riley 7,h4 ,t471 ,memorials ( ,london & ,london life1 p4 #dee4 ,! mak]s ( ^! beads 7 t]m$ pat]no/]]s2 & ,pat]no/] ,r[ & ,ave ,m>ia ,lane 7 s call$ f ! turn]s ( beads :o resid$ !re4 ,9 ,p>is1 z e>ly z ! ?irte5? c5tury1 ! comm]ce 9 ros>ies 0 a mo/ fl\ri%+ "o1 & x 0 cu/om>y !re to divide ! mak]s or deal]s 9 ^! articles into ?ree categories--pat]no/]]s ( bone & horn1 ( coral & "m-(-pe>l1 & ( amb] & jet4 ,9 ,engl& ! ros>y mak]s d n seem to h be5 s specialis$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xix ,,m$i,,val ,,p5dants ,! l>g] beads 7 sometimes ( gold1 silv]1 & silv]-gilt1 ( op5-"w1 beautifully *as$ & engrav$1 & ( boxwood & ivory exquisitely c>v$4 ,! gaudees or gauds 9 ! above quotation1 ! ornam5ts or tr9kets atta*$ to ! ros>y1 7 commonly 9 ! =m ( a crucifix1 :ile ! small ,g]man *>ms m5tion$ above 7p4 #abj7 7 mo/ly employ$ = ! same purpose4 ,( ! sph]ical-%ap$ gauds or nuts p5d5t to ! ros>y1 call$ 9 ,fr5* gra9s de *apelet & kn[n 9 ,g]many z ,betnsse1 _m f9e examples exi/ 9 boxwood4 ,!y h (t5 an op5-"w case :i* op5s ) a h+e1 & displays two hemisph]es fill$ ) a numb] ( c>v$ figures ( m9ute proportions4 ,among ! _m =ms assum$ by m$ival p5dants 7 ^? ( fruits--g5]ally apples or pe>s4 ,^! fruit-%ap$ p5dants1 conta9+ ei!r figures or relics1 7 exce$+ly popul>4 ,!y 7 c>ri$ 9 ! purse or atta*$ to ! ros>y or to ! girdle1 or 9 ! case ( m51 7 hung f ! neck by a cord or *a92 & 7 con/ruct$ s z to be op5$ dur+ devotions4 ,"o ( ! mo/ rem>kable examples is 9 ! ,waddesdon ,beque/ at ! ,briti% ,museum4#fi #fi ,read 7,c4 ,h471 ,catalogue ( ! ,waddesdon ,beque/1 ,no4 #bca4 ,! use ( p]fumes prevail$ at all p]iods ( ! ,middle ,ages4 ,!y 7 enclos$ 9 v>i\s receptacles1 & especially 9 ^? %ap$ l a pe> or apple4 ,^! p5d5t sc5t cases or pom&]s1 worn l o!r p5dants ( ! same =m1 7 9 g5]al use ?r\gh\t ! :ole ( ! p]iod ext5d+ f ! f\rte5? to ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,pom&] 9 e>ly inv5tories is (t5 spelt pomeambre1 indicat+ its d]ivation f pomme d'ambre1 a p]fume apple or ball2 ! ^w pomme be+ us$ = any object resembl+ an apple 9 %ape1 & ambre#gj = p]fume 9 g5]al4 ,prim>ily ! pom&] seems (t5 to h designat$ a ball compos$ ( v>i\s highly sc5t$ sub/ances :i* s]v$ ! purpose bo? ( c\nt]act+ ! smells :i* mu/ h be5 p>ticul>ly g5]al & (f5sive 9 old5 days1 & also ( protect+ aga9/ infection4 ,x 0 enclos$ 9 a ri* metal case1 op5+ across ! c5tre1 & p]=at$ s z to all[ ! sc5t to escape4 ,! title pom&]--orig9ally mean+ simply a sc5t or p]fume ball--0 giv5 to ! case :i* conta9$ x4 ,9 _m in/ances1 ! p]fumes1 in/ead ( be+ mix$ toge!r into a ball1 7 plac$ 9 ! pom&] case ea* 9 a sep>ate comp>tm5t1 ! lids ( :i* are f\nd inscrib$ ) ! names ( ! cont5ts4 ,^! comp>tm5ts1 v>y+ 9 numb] f f\r to z _m z sixte51 are =m$ l segm5ts ( an orange4 ,!y are h+$ bel[1 & unit$ at ! top by a screw or p91 :i* be+ remov$1 all[s ! segm5ts to op5 out 7,pl4 ,,xviii1 #c74 #gj ,probably abbreviat$ f ambregis 7amb]gris71 ! well-kn[n odorif]\s sub/ance1 s call$ f its resemblance to grey amb]4 ,x 0 ! mo/ highly priz$ ( all p]fumes 9 m$ival times2 & ?\gh its use is n[ almo/ entirely conf9$ to p]fum]y1 x =m]ly also occupi$ no inconsid]able place 9 ph>macy4 ,illu/ration3 ,pom&]4 ,f ,kreut]bu* 7,frank=t1 #aefi74 ,,*apt] ,,xvi ,,m$i,,val ,,broo*es--,,! ,,r+-,,broo* ,! broo*es or fibul hi!rto consid]$ h be5 con/ruct$ ei!r ) a spr+ p9 or acus1 :i* 0 held 9 its place by a hook or cat*1 or ) a h+$ acus1 :i*1 hav+ pi]c$ ! mat]ial1 0 fix$ simil>ly by a cat*1 & prev5t$ by ! weight ( ! g>m5t f becom+ unloos5$4 ,! t]m fibula1 g5]ally employ$ by ar*ologi/s to d5ote all e>ly broo*es1 has s f> be5 appli$ only to ! dress-fa/5]s ( classical times2 & ?\gh ! ^w broo* 7f ! ,fr5* bro*e1 mean+ a spit7 0 n introduc$ into ,engl& until aft] ! ,norman ,conque/1 x is = ! sake ( cle>ness us$ "h to describe :at are g5]ally kn[n among ,anglo-,saxon ornam5ts z fibul4 ,9 lat] ,roman times1 & among ! ,iri% & ,anglo-,saxons1 ! r+-broo* 0 sometimes =m$ ) an op5+ on "o side1 & ! p9 or acus1 :i* 0 n h+$1 b mov$ freely to any "p ( ! r+1 hav+ be5 pass$ ?r\gh ! tissue1 0 br\ght ?r\gh ?is op5+4 ,! r+ 0 !n turn$ till ! p9 re/$ ^u its rim4 ,at ! "t ( ! ,norman ,conque/ ! op5+ ( ! broo* is clos$1 ! r+ becomes flat & has a p9 ( ! same l5g? z its diamet]4 ,in/ead ( runn+ loosely1 ! p9 is h+$ ^u a con/riction ( ! r+ & x ei!r trav]ses ! tissue :i* has be5 br\ght ?r\gh ! latt]1 or a b& is pass$ ov] x f b5ea? ! sides ( ! r+4 ,:5 ! portions ( ! g>m5t ?us connect$ are drawn back1 ! p9 falls across ! front ( ! r+ & is held securely 9 its place4 ,?is r+-broo* 0 kn[n z ! f]mail 7,lat9 firmaculum1 signify+ a clasp7--a t]m employ$ bo? 9 old ,fr5* & old ,engli% inv5tories4 ,! r+-broo* 0 worn by bo? sexes4 ,x appe>s on ! monum5tal effigy ( ,ri*>d ,coeur de ,lion at ,r\51 on t ( ,b]5g>ia 8 que5 at ,le ,mans1 & on sev]al ( ! ?irte5?-c5tury sculptures on ! we/ front ( ,wells ,ca!dral4 ,x s]v$ to ga!r up ! fulness ( ! surcoat on ! brea/ ( ! knight1 z %[n by ! effigy1 kn[n z t ( ,william ,m>es*el ! ,eld]1 ,e>l ( ,pembroke1 9 ! ,temple ,*ur*2 b 0 g5]ally us$ to close ! op5+ 9 ! robes at ! ?roat ( ei!r sex & is se5 ?us on _m effigies ( ! ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies4#ga #ga ,ar*4 ,j\rn41 ,,iii1 p4 #gf4 ,among ! few examples ( m$ival jewell]y t h surviv$1 broo*es & f+] r+s pr$om9ate4 ,broo*es diff] slightly accord+ to ! nationality to :i* !y belong3 ^? ( ,engli% orig9 =m+ ( !mselves a class ( consid]able v>iety & ext5t4 ,! e>lie/ 7 circles ( small diamet] & n>r[ frame1 ei!r pla91 or decorat$ ) simple designs4 ,my/ic words & lett]s 7 subsequ5tly add$2 b z ! broo* became l>g]1 amatory mottoes took _! place4 ,religi\s =mul 7 also employ$1 p>ticul>ly 9 ! ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies1 :5 ! broo* rea*$ its full developm5t4 ,! v>i\s inscriptions & designs engrav$ on m$ival broo*es are ( great int]e/4 ,! majority ( inscriptions are mottoes 9 ,fr5*1 su* z 7 frequ5tly employ$ z posies ^u r+s & o!r love-gifts4 ,an inscription :i* occurs m ?an once is ,,io 4 ,,svi 4 ,,ici 4 ,,en 4 ,,liev 4 ,,dami4 ,ano!r *anson1 read+ ?us 9 mod]n ,fr5*--,je suis ici1 toi voici1 is f\nd on sev]al broo*es 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,! da9ty ,prioress1 ,madame ,egl5t9e1 9 ! prologue ( ,*auc]'s ,cant]bury ,tales wore-- 444 a bro*e ( gold ful %5e1 ,on :i*e 0 fir/ y-writt5 a cr\n$ ,a1 ,& aft]1 ,amor v9cit omnia4 ,! popul>ity ( ?is la/ motto on ! p]sonal ornam5ts ( ! ,middle ,ages may be attribut$ to its suppos$ influ5ce z a love-*>m4 ,a consid]able numb] ( leg5ds are ( a religi\s "*1 ) allusions to ! ,virg9 & ,savi\r :ile a few are talismanic1 & conta9 inscriptions su* z ! names ( ! ,k+s ( ! ,ea/4 ,r+-broo*es1 ?\gh g5]ally circul>1 %[ a v>iety ( o!r %apes1 su* z he>ts1 trefoils1 loz5ges1 etc4 ,a he>t-%ap$ broo* ( f9e workman%ip 9 *as$ & engrav$ gold is 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4 ,x appe>s to be ,fr5* & ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,^u its back is ! inscription--,no/re et t\t ditz a vo/re desir4 ,! broo*es worn by ! weal?y are (t5 magnific5t examples ( jewell]y1 enri*$ ) gems set 9 delicate goldwork4 ,a numb] ( ! exi/+ broo*es are ( su* dim9utive size--less ?an half an in* 9 diamet]--t !y c\ld only h be5 employ$ = fa/5+ ! v ?9ne/ tissue4 ,! l>g] gold r+-broo*es1 ( f9e workman%ip & set ) preci\s /ones1 are ( great r>ity4 ,9 ! ,briti% ,museum are sev]al *oice specim5s3 ! f9e/1 =m]ly 9 ! ,londesbor\gh ,collection1 dates f ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,x is m\nt$ ) pe>ls1 cabo*on sapphires & em]alds1 arrang$ 9 a v>iety ( sett+s1 & fur!r enri*$ ) f\r bosses c>v$ & pi]c$ 9 ! =ms ( dragons & cockatrices4 ,a rem>kable broo* ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 also f a well-kn[n collection1 t ( ,b>on ,pi*on1 is pres]v$ 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4 ,x is a circul> gold r+ two in*es 9 diamet]1 enri*$ ) f\r sapphires & six rubies 9 high cone-l sett+s =m$ ( simple %eets ( metal wrapp$ r\nd ! /ones4 ,! bases ( ^! collets are hidd5 on ! inn] side by an encircl+ wrea? ( v9e leaves delicately cut & /amp$ 9 gold4 ,! back is ornam5t$ ) a leaf design 9 niello4 ,!re is a some:at simil> broo*1 ?\gh only a fragm5t1 9 ! ,gem ,room ( ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,a gold broo* also dat+ f ! ?irte5? c5tury1 &1 l ! majority1 ( ,fr5* workman%ip1 is 9 ! ,c>r& ,collection 9 ! ,museo ,nazionale 7,b>gello71 ,flor5ce4 ,?is f9e example1 =m]ly 9 ! ,debruge ,collection1 is decorat$ ) exquisite ,go?ic foliage 9 naturali/ic /yle1 & ) figures ( two lions 9 full relief4 ,x is set ) two l>ge rubies & f\r small em]alds4 ,9 ! same collection is an extremely int]e/+ broo*1 likewise ,fr5*1 & ( ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,a flat r+ ( gold #a in*es 9 diamet] is ornam5t$ ) conc5tric r+s ( enamel1 ! two out] be+ blue & ! inn] :ite4 ,^u ! latt]1 9 lett]s res]v$ 9 ! gold1 is ! inscription ,,iesus ,,autem ,,traisi5s ,,p] ,,m$41#gb :i* occurs also on ! cameo ( ,*>les ,v at ,p>is1 & 0 held by ^? :o bore x to possess a prophylactic virtue4 ,! broo* is fur!r ornam5t$ ) f\r v]nicles#gc engrav$ ) exquisite feel+ at equal di/ances ^u its surface 7,pl4 ,,xx1 #b74 #gb ,/4 ,luke1 ,,iv4 #cj4 #gc ,a ,v]onica1 or ,face ( our ,"l1 frequ5tly figur$ on hat-ornam5ts4 ,?us3 ,a v]nicle hadde he sew$ ^u 8 cappe 7,*auc]1 ,cant]bury ,tales1 l4 #fhh74 ,?is jewel may p]haps h be5 a hat-broo*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xx ,,m$i,,val ,,broo*es 7,,r+-,,broo*es1 ,,etc47 ,?\gh comp>atively _m exi/+ broo*es are ( gold1 a great quantity 7 =m]ly produc$ n only 9 silv]1 b 9 bas] metals1 su* z iron1 copp]1 & lead or pewt]4 ,h[ l>ge 0 ! dem& = broo*es ( ^! mat]ials c be gaug$ f a ,fr5* writ] ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 ,jean de ,g>l&e1 a poet & gramm>ian1 :o 9 8 ,lat9 vocabul>y ref]s to broo*-mak]s z a special class ( craftsm51 :o1 ap>t f goldsmi?s1 7 suffici5tly num]\s to be> ! title ( f]mailleurs#gd--mak]s ( f]mails4 ,to ab\t ! end ( ! fifte5? c5tury belongs a satirical poem pr9t$ 9 ,london ) ! title ,cocke ,lorelles ,bote1 :]e latt5 work]s & bro*e mak]s are specially m5tion$ among ! ,london crafts or trades4 ,! manufacture ( ! f9e/ broo*es1 h[ev]1 0 always res]v$ = ! goldsmi?s--a fact indicat$ by ! qu>t]+ ( broo*es on ! arms ( ! ,goldsmi?s' ,company4 #gd ,sometimes call$ 7by meta!sis7 fremailleurs4 ,!re w\ld be no ju/ification = any g5]al ref]5ce to m$ival r+-broo*es t omitt$ to give "s acc\nt ( ^? worn 9 ,scotl&4 ,broo*es =m$ an indisp5sable accessory to ! ,highl& dress ( bo? sexes1 9 t !y s]v$ to fix ^u ! %\ld] an inv>iable article ( clo?+ ( ! ,highl&]s--! ,scotti% plaid4 ,9 ! late/ developm5t ( ! ,scotti% broo* ( ! ,celtic type1 ! p91 z has be5 obs]v$1 is h+$ ^u ! r+1 & aft] pi]c+ ! g>m5t is held 9 its place by a cat* at ! back ( ! broo*4 ,^u ! introduction ( ! r+-broo* ) a p9 equal to ! diamet] ( ! r+1 ?is mode ( fa/5+ 0 only 9 v few cases reta9$1 & pref]5ce 9 g5]al 0 giv5 to ! ,engli% mann] ( adju/m5t4 ,! e>lie/ =m ( ! ,scotti% r+-broo*1 :i* dates f ab\t ! ?irte5? c5tury1 is a flatt5$ circul> r+1 ^u :i* talismanic inscriptions 9 ,lat91 g5]ally ( a religi\s "*1 almo/ inv>iably appe>4 ,^!1 toge!r ) "s traces ( ,go?ic design1 la/ ?r\gh\t ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies4 ,aft] ?is p]iod ! k ( ,lat9 seems to decrease1 = x is r5d]$ s b>b>\sly on ! sixte5?-c5tury broo*es z to be almo/ un9telligible4 ,on ! lat] broo*es ! decoration is purely ornam5tal1 ) int]lac$ "w & foliace\s scrolls1 & broo*es ( ?is type1 on :i* ! "* ( an e>li] p]iod is reta9$1 7 made z late z ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,! designs ( ! silv] broo*es 7 produc$ by engrav+ accompani$ by niello "w2 ^? ( ! brass broo*es usually by engrav+ alone4 ,! ,national ,museum ( ,antiquities at ,ed9burgh possesses a l>ge & important collection ( ,scotti% broo*es1 :ile a few ,highl& families h pres]v$ = _m g5]ations massive silv] broo*es ( elaborate workman%ip4 ,=m]ly 9 ! possession ( ! ,campbells ( ,gl5lyon1 & n[ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 is a broo* kn[n z ! ,gl5lyon broo*4 ,x dates f ab\t ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,x is ab\t #c in*es 9 wid?1 & is =m$ ( a flat r+ set ) pe>ls on tall cone-%ap$ turrets1 alt]nat+ ) cry/als & pieces ( ame?y/4 ,across ! c5tre is a ri*ly decorat$ b>1 ^u :i* re/ ! po9ts ( two p9s atta*$ to ! edge ( ! r+4 ,on ! back ( ! broo*1 9 black-lett]1 is ! fav\rite inscription ( m$ival amulets3 ,,casp> 4 ,,mel*ior 4 ,,baltaz> 4 ,,consumatum 4 ,! la/ ^w1 ! decl>ation ( ! dy+ ,savi\r1 ,x is f9i%$1 0 (t5 inscrib$ ^u broo*es & o!r ornam5ts ( ! ,middle ,ages1 z 7 likewise ! ,angelic ,salutation1 ! titulus ,i4,n4,r4,i41 & o!r s-call$ c>acts1 all ( :i* 7 consid]$ to possess "s talismanic efficacy4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxi ,,m$i,,val ,,scotti% ,,broo*es 7,,! ,,gl5lyon ,,& ,,lo* ,,buy ,,broo*es7 ,9 _m cases ! op5 space 9 ! middle ( ! r+1 z 9 mod]n broo*es1 0 fill$ up1 & 9 ! e>ly examples 0 sometimes occupi$ by a turret-l ornam5tation set ) a cry/al1 :ile obelisks ris+ f ! r+ ( ! broo* 7 set ) poli%$ /ones su* z cairngorms 7/ill popul> on ,scotti% jewell]y71 or ) ,scotti% pe>ls4 ,! f9e/ examples ( ?is type ( broo* are kn[n z ! broo* ( ,lorn1 ! ,ugadale broo*1 & ! ,lo* ,buy broo*4 ,! broo* ( ,lorn1 /ill 9 ! possession ( ! l9eal desc5dants ( ! ,macd\gals ( ,lorn1 dates f ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,x consi/s ( a disc ( silv] #d in*es 9 diamet]1 enri*$ ) filigree4 ,9 ! c5tre is a rais$ capsule cr[n$ ) a l>ge rock cry/al1 & r\nd ! r+ ( ! broo* a circle ( eight obelisks4 ,! ,ugadale broo*1 ! prop]ty ( ! ,macneals ( ,firf]gus1 is ( some:at simil> nature1 save t ! turrets1 eight 9 numb]1 are t[>ds ! c5tre ( ! broo* & arrang$ close r\nd ! rais$ cry/al4 ,! ,lo* ,buy broo*1 ( m elaborate workman%ip1 is likewise surm\nt$ by a cabo*on cry/al on a rais$ dais4 ,on ! r+1 )9 a l[ bord]1 are t5 tall turrets1 ea* surm\nt$ ) a ,scotti% pe>l4 ,?is fam\s broo*1 long 9 ! possession ( ! ,macleans ( ,lo* ,buy 9 ! ,isle ( ,mull1 came lat] into ! collection ( ,ralph ,b]nal1 "o ( ! fir/ & mo/ em95t ( latt]-day connoisseurs1 at ^: sale 9 #ahee x 0 pur*as$ by ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,9 addition to ! ,highl& circul> broo*es1 a consid]able numb] 9 ! %ape ( he>ts h be5 f\nd 9 ,scotl&1 sometimes surm\nt$ ) a cr[n1 & 9 a few in/ances set ) jewels 7p4 #afe74 ,!y 7 mo/ly love-tok5s & betro?al gifts1 & _m ( !m be> on ! rev]se ! ^w ,,love4 ,broo*es ( ?is =m are kn[n z ,luck5boo? broo*es1 f _! hav+ be5 commonly sold 9 ! ,luck5boo?s1 ! /reet /alls ar\nd ,/4 ,giles' ,*ur* on ! ,high ,/reet1 ,ed9burgh4 ,! use ( ! ^w ,luck5boo? calls to m9d ! fact t ! goldsmi?s ( ,p>is also work$ & dwelt 9 boo?s1 :i* z late z ! f\rte5? c5tury 7 situat$ on ! ,pont du ,*ange & ! ,pont ,ntre ,dame4 ,9 ?is connection x is wor? notic+ t 9 ,engl&1 z well z 9 ,france & ,scotl&1 ! work+ goldsmi?s1 l ! foll[]s ( o!r trades1 occupi$ di/9ct qu>t]s by !mselves1 & !y _h 9 ,london "o "p ( ! ,*epe set ap>t = !m to dwell & trade 94 ,! cu/om ( ! v>i\s crafts ?us conf9+ !mselves to p>ticul> qu>t]s1 :i* is ( remote antiquity1 greatly facilitat$ ! =mation & gov]nm5t ( trade guilds4 ,illu/ration3 ,a m$ival lapid>y4 ,f ,ortus ,sanitatis 7,/rasburg1 ab\t #adig74 ,,*apt] ,,xvii ,,m$i,,val ,,broo*es 7cont9u$7--,,pectorals ,ano!r species ( broo* peculi> to ! ,middle ,ages is ! pectoral1 an article = fa/5+ on to ! middle ( ! brea/4 ,x is simil> to our mod]n broo*1 b diff]s 9 t x did n always s]ve to hold ! dress toge!r4 ,9 e>li] c5turies x 0 (t5 sewn on ! g>m5t1 & 0 only occasionally suppli$ ) a p94 ,x 0 worn by bo? sexes1 z well z by ecclesia/ics1 :o appe> to h borne 9 m9d ! *ief ornam5t worn by ! ,jewi% ,high ,prie/4 ,! e>lie/ & mo/ rem>kable example ( ?is class is ! great gold pectoral--! ,eagle ,fibula x is t]m$--f\nd 9 #ahhj at ,ma9z--t anci5t & hi/orical ,rh5i% city1 kn[n 9 =m] times f its comm]cial prosp]ity z ,gold5e ,ma9z1 :i* has prov$ extraord9>ily ri* 9 discov]ies dat+ f classical & e>ly m$ival p]iods4 ,?is fam\s jewel1 bo? on acc\nt ( its size 7#d by #c-e_/h in*es7 & good /ate ( pres]vation1 probably des]ves to rank fir/ among all gold5 ornam5ts t h come d[n to u f ! e>ly ,middle ,ages4 ,its composition1 says ,h]r ,lu?m]1 is extremely cle> & consci\s4 ,an eagle1 ( h]aldic =m1 x is true1 b n ) any ( t unnatural emaciation peculi> to ! lat] /yle ( h]aldry1 fills ! inn] circle ( a flat r+ ( /amp$ gold enri*$ ) bead$ filigree1 :i* at its upp] end--9 ord] to give space = ! head ( ! bird--is n clos$1 b connect$ by a curve 9 ! circle ( wire4 ,! eight fl[]s ins]t$ 9 ! op5-"w ( ! r+1 z well z ! :ole =m ( ! eagle ) ! exception ( ! claws1 are fill$ ) cloisonn enamel :i* un=tunately has disappe>$ f ! body ( ! eagle1 :]e only ! punctur$ outl9es ( ! fea!rs are p]ceptible ^u ! plate ( gold4 ,o!rwise ! enamel1 made ( transluc5t gre5 & blue1 turquoise-blue1 :ite & yell[1 has be5 pres]v$ 9 all its fre%ness4#ge ,?is pectoral dates f ! comm5cem5t ( ! twelf? c5tury1 & is "o ( ! *ief treasures 9 ! ri* collection ( antiquities pres]v$ 9 ! ,ma9z ,museum4 #ge ,lu?m]1 op4 cit41 p4 #gd4 ,jewels ( ?is species & ( ?is p]iod are ( ! utmo/ r>ity4 ,ano!r v beautiful example 0 discov]$ at ,ma9z j five ye>s aft] ! ,eagle ,fibula1 & is n[ 9 ! collection ( ,b>on von ,heyl zu ,h]rn%eim at ,worms4 ,x is =m$ ( rep\ss gold1 & repres5ts an eagle /&+ ^u a bran* roll$ up at bo? ends4 ,a f9e sapphire occupies ! middle ( ! brea/1 9 ! c5tre ( ! w+s are em]alds1 ! tail is set ) lapis-lazuli1 & ! eye ( ! bird ) a small ruby4 ,?is exquisite jewel dates f ! e>ly "p ( ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,x measures #b-a_/h in*es 9 height & #a-e_/h in*es 9 wid?4#gf ,! mo/ rem>kable among jewels ( ab\t ! same date 7! twelf? c5tury7 are ! spl5did antique cameos already describ$--! ,cameo ( ,/4 ,hil>y 9 ! ,biblio?que ,nationale1 ,p>is1 & ! ,s*affhaus5 ,onyx--bo? ( :i* 7 orig9ally employ$ z pectorals or broo*es4 #gf ,kun/gew]be-,blatt1 ,,iii1 p4 #ba1 #ahhg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxii ,,m$i,,val ,,broo*es 7,,pectorals ,,& ,,morse7 ,a few broo*es are atta*$1 z 0 once ! jewel ( ,/4 ,hil>y1 z ex voto on ! brea/ ( reliqu>y figures1 l t ( ,/4 ,foy at ,conques1 :i* /ill exhibits an ornam5t ( ?is k9d4 ,a broo* or f]mail 7= ?is latt] t]m is n conf9$ to ! r+-broo*71 #a in*es 9 diamet]1 :i* once =m$ "p ( ! anci5t jewels ( ! ,fr5* ,cr[n1 is 9 ! ,gal]ie d',apollon ( ! ,l\vre4#gg ,two exce$+ly f9e broo*es ( ab\t ! end ( ! twelf? c5tury1 f\nd at ,ma9z 9 #ahif & n[ 9 ! treasury ( ! ca!dral1 are describ$ by ,dr4 ,s*neid] 9 ! ,jahrbu* d] ,knigli* ,preussis*5 ,kun/sammlung5 7,vol4 ,,xviii72 & a pectoral or broo* ( a simil> =m1 a l>ge /one 9 ! c5tre1 surr\nd$ by small] ones--to take only "o among _m examples--is repres5t$ on ! twelf?-c5tury /atue ( a que51 probably int5d$ = ! ,que5 ( ,%eba1 f ! we/ portal ( ! *ur* ( ,our ,lady ( ,corbeil1 & n[ at ,sa9t-,d5is4 #gg ,b>bet de ,j\y1 ,gemmes et joyaux de la c\ronne1 ,pl4 ,,xi4 ,9 ! case ( orig9al jewels ( ?is k9d1 x is n always easy to det]m9e :e!r !y 7 articles ( adornm5t = ! cl]gy or ! laity1 & ?\gh ^? = ecclesia/ical use probably pr$om9ate1 x is only :5 !y conta9 ! figur$ repres5tation ( "s religi\s subject t !y c ) c]ta9ty be id5tifi$ z cope-clasps or morses1 ! ,fr5* equival5t = :i* is mors de *ape4 ,morses 7 frequ5tly ( extraord9>y size4 ,monum5tal brasses & tomb/ones1 especially 9 ,g]many1 exhibit _m examples4 ,adalb]t ( ,saxony1 :o 0 adm9i/rator ( ! ar*bi%opric ( ,ma9z1 & di$ 9 #adhd1 is repres5t$ on 8 tomb/one 9 ! ca!dral ) "o measur+ m ?an #g in*es across4 ,exi/+ examples v>y f #e to #g in*es 9 bread?4 ,! jewell]s ( ! ,middle ,ages delight$ 9 lavi%+ _! utmo/ ta/e & skill on morses1 :i* 7 ( a v>iety ( %apes1 & 7 compos$ ( e mat]ial4 ,"s 7 enri*$ ) preci\s /ones1 includ+ anci5t cameos1 & o!rs r5d]$ attractive ) col\r$ enamels4 ,sev]al li/s ( ,engli% morses are pres]v$4 ,9 ! inv5tory ( ,s>um1#gh ( ! ye> #abbb1 gold1 silv]1 & jewell$ morses1 firmacula1 pectoralia1 or monilia 7z !y 7 v>i\sly t]m$ 9 ! ,middle ,ages7 are describ$ at l5g?2 9 t ( ,/4 ,paul's1#gi drawn up 9 #abie1 !re are no less ?an tw5ty-eight2 :ile ! inv5tory ( jewels 7jocalia7 pres]v$ 9 ,york ,m9/]#hj 9 #aejj includes an extraord9>ily ri* collection ( ^! ornam5ts4 #gh ,rock1 op4 cit41 ,,iii1 iii1 p4 #aja4 #gi ,dugdale1 ,hi/ory ( ,/4 ,paul's ,ca!dral 7#ahah ed471 p4 #caj4 #hj ,fabric ,rolls ( ,york ,m9/] 7,surtees ,society71 p4 #bbb4 ,?\gh "s 7 cle>ly made fa/ to "o side ( ! g>m5t1 & 7 hit*$ to ! o!r by hooks1 or by a p91 l a broo*1 !y 7 n always employ$ to unite ! two sides1 b 7 sometimes us$ simply z a decoration ^u ! front ( ! ve/m5t1 & p]haps hung !re by a *a9 r\nd ! neck4#ha ,examples to be f\nd 9 _m museums are pi]c$ ) holes1 or h loops beh9d !m1 %[+ t !y 7 sewn to ! ve/m5t ) purely decorative purpose4 #ha ,comp>e p4 #aba4 ,f ! close ( ! twelf? c5tury *amplev enamel ^u copp] 0 mu* employ$ = ! decoration ( morses4 ,9 ! f\rte5? c5tury *amplev 0 l>gely sup]s$$ by transp>5t enamel on silv] relief 7basse-taille71 _m ( ! f9e/ specim5s ( :i* 7 produc$ 9 ,italy4 ,two f9e morses display+ ?is species ( "w are pres]v$2 ! "o 9 ! ,briti% ,museum#hb & ! o!r at ,s\? ,k5s+ton4 #hb ,%aw1 ,decorative arts ( ! ,middle ,ages1 ,pl4 #g4 ,! use ( anci5t cameos z p]sonal ornam5ts has already be5 m5tion$2 & !re is 9 ! ,briti% ,museum a m$ival intaglio1 ! f9e/ ( its k9d1 :i* 0 us$ z a morse4 ,x is kn[n z ! ,cry/al ( ,lo?air1 s9ce x 0 made1 9 all probability1 = ,lo?air ,,ii1 ,k+ ( ! ,franks f #hee to #hfi4 ,x is a l5ticul> plaque ( rock cry/al1 #d in*es 9 diamet]1 engrav$ 9 intaglio1#hc ) ! hi/ory ( ,susanna4#hd #hc ,x is int5d$1 h[ev]1 to be look$ at f ! rev]se side ?r\gh ! cry/al--:5 ! device appe>s l a cameo4 #hd ,ar*ologia1 ,,lix1 p4 #be4 ,public collections at home & abroad possess a v>iety ( examples ( ,go?ic morses ( exquisite design4 ,"o ( ! mo/ rem>kable ( ,g]man workman%ip ( ! f\rte5? c5tury is 9 ! ,muse ,cluny at ,p>is2#he :ile among ! f9e/ ,g]man jewels ( ! fifte5? c5tury mu/ be rank$ a morse ( beautiful execution 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4#hf ,o!r notewor?y examples are1 ?ree 9 ! treasury ( ! ca!dral ( ,aix-la-,*apelle1 "o ( !m#hg conta9+ a repres5tation ( ! ,annunciation--a subject :i*1 judg+ f ! inv5tories1 appe>s to h be5 a v fav\rite "o = ! purpose1 p>ticul>ly 9 ,engl&4 ,?ree m are 9 ,p>is3 "o--! beautiful morse ( ,/4 ,l\is--9 ! ,gal]ie d',apollon1#hh a second 9 ! ,ro?s*ild ,beque/#hi 9 ! ,l\vre1 & a ?ird 9 ! ,dutuit ,beque/4#ij ,9 ! ,kun/gew]be ,museum at ,b]l9 is a silv]-gilt morse :i* 0 made 9 ! ye> #adhd = ,alb]t von ,letel51 canon ( ,m9d51 by ! goldsmi? ,re9ecke van ,dress*e ( ,m9d54 ,x is a circul> disc #e in*es 9 diamet]1 fill$ ) ?ree elaborate ,go?ic tab]nacles1 ea* conta9+ a figure4 ,entirely symmetrical 9 composition1 x foll[s a design commonly f\nd on ! seals ( ! same date 7,pl4 ,,xxii1 #c74 #he ,figur$ by ,%aw1 ,dresses & decorations1 ,pl4 #hh1 :]e x is errone\sly describ$ z ! clasp ( ! ,emp]or ,*>les ,v4 #hf ,poll51 ,gold & silv]smi?'s "w 9 ! ,s4 ,k5s+ton ,museum1 p4 #ih4 #hg ,beissel1 ,kun/s*tze des ,aa*5] ,kais]domes1 ,pl4 ,,xiii4 #hh ,b>bet de ,j\y1 op4 cit41 ,pl4 ,x4 #hi ,mol9i]1 ,donation de ,adolphe de ,ro?s*ild1 ,pl4 ,,xix4 #ij ,giraud1 ,les arts du mtal1 ,pl4 ,,vii4 ,an excell5t idea ( ! extraord9>y beauty ( ! morses 9 use at ! close ( ! ,middle ,ages c be obta9$ f fifte5?-c5tury pa9t+s1 p>ticul>ly ( ! ,flemi% s*ool4 ,few ( ! latt] c surpass :at is "o ( its f9e/ examples 9 ! ,national ,gall]y--,g]>d ,david's beautiful picture ( ! ,canon & 8 ,patron ,sa9ts1 9 :i* are display$1 9 almo/ all _! pri/9e fre%ness1 "s ( ! mo/ magnific5t repres5tations ( ! jewell]'s art4 ,besides ^! pectorals1 :i* sometimes s]v$ a practical1 b (t5 a purely decorative purpose1 !re 7 v>i\s o!r ornam5ts t act$ z clasps 7agrafes74 ,^! agrafes are simil> to ^? /ill made use ( 9 our day1 work+ on a sy/em ( a hook fitt+ into a loop4 ,clasps = mantles 7 sometimes made ( massive loops fa/5$ on ei!r side ( ! bord] ( ! mantle1 l p>ts ( a h+e1 :i* c\ld be clasp$ by a p9 be+ ?ru/ ?r\gh !m1 or by a cord or /rap4 ,illu/ration3 ,mantle clasp 7portion7 on effigy ( ,h5ry ,,iv 7,cant]bury ,ca!dral74 ,a heavy ornam5tal mantle 0 (t5 worn by bo? sexes ov] ! dress4 ,x 0 op5 9 front1 & display$ ! dress und]nea?4 ,^u its opposite edges 7 fix$ two ornam5tal rosettes or loz5ges1 connect$ by cords t]m9at+ 9 tassels1 or by a b& across ! brea/4 ,9 ! case ( c]emoni\s attire ?is b& 0 ( metal1 pr(usely jewell$1 :ile ! ornam5tal pieces or clasps at ea* end 7 ( elaborate goldwork set ) preci\s /ones4 ,on ! monum5tal effigy ( ,h5ry ,,iv 9 ! ,*apel ( ,/4 ,?omas ,becket1 at ,cant]bury ,ca!dral1 ! cloak is secur$ by a ri* b& fa/5$ at ea* end by diamond-%ap$ clasps ( f9e design4 ,h5ry's ,que51 ,joanna ( ,nav>re1 :o lies beside him1 has clasps ( almo/ ! same =m1 fix$ ne> ! %\ld]s1 & unit$ by a simple b&4 ,some:at simil> ornam5ts1 rosette-%ap$1 c be se5 on ! effigy ( ,anne ( ,bohemia1 fir/ wife ( ,ri*>d ,,ii1 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey4 ,s9ce ! pectoral is sometimes worn toge!r ) ^! clasps1 x is evid5t t x (t5 _h no?+ to d ) clos+ ! mantle2 b :5 a p9 is atta*$ beh9d1 & x is employ$ = secul> purposes1 x assumes ! ord9>y type ( ! mod]n broo*4 ,! ,engli% ^w = ?is small] & secul> v>iety ( morse1 :i* is di/9ct f ! f]mail or r+-broo*1 0 n\*4#ia ,x 0 also call$ ou*1 by misdivision ( a n\* z an ou*1 & 0 v>i\sly spelt nu*e1 n[*e1 ow*e1 etc4 ,t ! n\* is ! actual ,engli% equival5t to ! morse or pectoral is prov$ by a w dat$ #adjj1ib 9 :i* among ! jewels bequea!d to ! %r9e ( ! ,head ( ,/4 ,william ( ,york 0 unum monile1 ,anglic n\*e auri1 cum uno saphire 9 m$io1 et j4 dyam& desup]1 et circumpositum cum p]eles et em]audes4 ,n\*es 7 atta*$ to ! front ( ! g>m5t1 b 7 occasionally worn ^u ! %\ld]4 ,on ! effigy ( ,h5ry ,,ii1 at ,fontevraud1 & on t ( ,h5ry ,,iii#ic 9 ! ,*apel ( ,edw>d ! ,confessor at ,we/m9/] ,abbey1 ! mantle 9 ea* case is fa/5$ ^u ! "r %\ld] ) a broo* ( ?is k9d4 #ia ,probably a corruption ( ! ,lat9 words nusca1 nuxa1 a broo* or fibula 7,prompt4 ,p>v41 p4 #cei74 #ib ,te/am5ta ,eborac5sia 7,surtees ,society71 ,i1 p4 #bfg4 #ic ,?is effigy1 & t ( ,anne ( ,bohemia1 & ( ,h5ry ,,iv & 8 ,que51 may be /udi$ f reproductions 9 ! ,national ,portrait ,gall]y4 ,x w\ld be an almo/ impossible task to describe all ! motives select$ = ! ,engli% broo*es ( ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies1 _! num]\s compositions ( human figures & animals ( all sorts1 & ! v>i\s /ones ) :i* !y 7 set4 ,! old inv5tories give endless descriptions1 b h>dly any actual examples1 ap>t f ! r+-broo*es & ,william ( ,wykeham's magnific5t n\* at ,new ,college1 h surviv$4 ,9 ! ,briti% ,museum is a silv]-gilt broo* 9 =m ( ,/4 ,*ri/oph] lean+ on 8 /aff & be>+ ! infant ,savi\r on 8 %\ld]4 ,x is ( fifte5?-c5tury workman%ip1 #b in*es long1 & 0 f\nd at ,k+/on-on-,?ames 7,pl4 ,,xx1 #g74 ,?is broo* is ( peculi> int]e/1 s9ce 9 ! ,cant]bury ,tales t worn by ! ,yeman is describ$ z ,a ,cry/(re on 8 bre/ ( silvyr %5e4 ,broo*es & n\*es1 m5tion$ frequ5tly 9 ! ,engli% inv5tories ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 became ev5 m num]\s & elaborate 9 ! c5tury foll[+4 ,=eign influ5ce1 /rong at ?is p]iod1 left its impr9t ^u all works ( art2 & ! mo/ ext5sive comm]ce 0 c>ri$ on ) ,fl&]s1 :i* 0 !n ! work%op ( ! _w4 ,yet ?\gh ! foll[+ descriptions ( broo*es drawn f ! inv5tory ( ,h5ry ,,iv 9 ! ,inv5tories ( ! ,ex*equ]#id %[ a /rik+ simil>ity to ! cont95tal jewels ( ! same date1 !re is no reason to suppose t ^! 7 n actually produc$ 9 ,engl& by ,engli% workm54 ,five n\*es1 probably v simil> 9 =m to ! spl5did jewel at ,new ,college1 ,ox=d1 & dat+ approximately f ! same p]iod1 are ?us record$3 ,item v4 n\*es de letres ,m app>ellez de p]les et div]ses p]es de petit value4 ,o!r broo*es exhibit a v>iety ( =ms3 ,item i4 gant n\*e dun griffon seisant un deyme ove i4 saphir en my lieu iij4 baleys et vi4 grosses p]les2 ,item i4 n\*e dor ove i4 damoysell es blancz fl\rs portant i4 pap+ey en la mayn app>ellez ove i4 baleys iij4 saphis iij4 tro*es de p]les ove trois diamantz contrifaitz4 ,simil>ly enri*$ jewels h = _! subjects3 i4 enfant dor et i4 blanc deime enaymellez2 i4 damoisell et i4 unicorn dor2 & un damoisell seant en un solaill4 ,f9ally we meet ) ! foll[+ entry3 ,item i4 n\*e d'un aungell blanc t5ant en sa mayn un saphir feble g>nisez de vi4 p]les ent]foiles4 #id ,kal5d>s & ,inv5tories ( ! ,ex*equ]1 ,,iii4 p4 #cdd1 etc4 ,( all ! imm5se weal? ( jewell]y ( ! ,dukes ( ,burgundy 9 ! fifte5? c5tury almo/ e ve/ige has disappe>$1 & ! public museums ( ! ,cont95t are practically de/itute ( ,flemi%-,burgundian jewell]y ( ?is date4 ,yet ! ,briti% ,museum1 ?r\gh ! g5]osity ( ! late ,sir ,a4 ,w4 ,franks1 is 9 =tunate possession ( sev]al exquisite examples1 :i* 7 dr$g$ a few ye>s ago f ! b$ ( ! ,riv] ,meuse4 ,! mo/ rem>kable is a gold broo* ( delicate workman%ip1 ! c5tre ( :i* is occupi$ by a female figure3 a g>l& encircles h] head1 a fl[] set ) a small triangul> diamond adorns h] brea/1 :ile h] h&s hold 9 front a l>ge facet$ sapphire4 ,ar\nd1 9 ! mid/ ( foliage1 are ?ree cabo*on rubies1 & ! sett+s ( o!r /ones & pe>ls :i* h disappe>$ 7,pl4 ,,xx1 #aa74 ,! =m ( ?is jewel is peculi>ly int]e/+ 9 comp>ison ) ! above-quot$ aungell t5ant en sa mayn un saphir ( ! inv5tory ( ,h5ry ,,iv4 ,a small] circul> broo* ( simil> fabrique has a diamond above & a pale ruby bel[1 & is encircl$ by radiat+ buds ( fl[]s1 ! c5tre ( ea* bud be+ =m$ ( a ball ( :ite enamel4 ,( ! few examples ( jewels ( simil> "* t exi/ at ! pres5t day ^u ! ,cont95t1 !re is 9 ! treasury ( ! ,collegiate ,*ur* ( ,ess5 9 ,rh5i% ,prussia1 among/ sev]al f9e objects ( ! goldsmi?'s art1 a rem>kable & comp>atively unkn[n collection ( enamell$ jewels ( ! fifte5? c5tury4#ie ,ea* ( ! sixte5 objects ( ! s]ies possesses :at appe>s to be a *>act]i/ic ( mo/ jewels ( ?is date--t is to say1 x is enclos$ by an encircl+ wrea?-l ornam5t ( ! naturali/ic late ,go?ic /yle =m$ ( a circul> tube ( gold to :i* are affix$ leaves ( /amp$ gold1 enamell$ & enri*$ ) pe>ls4 ,! c5tres ( ! jewels are occupi$ by a v>iety ( motives4 ,sev5 are ( a purely =mal composition1 enri*$ ) small :ite fl[]s1 ! /alks ( :i*1 cov]$ ) gre5 enamel1 resemble ) _! int]lac+ design ! necklace worn by ,m>ia ,port9>i 9 ! ,van d] ,goes tripty* at ,flor5ce4 ,! rema9+ & m elaborate jewels conta9 enamell$ figures ( m5 & animals execut$ ) extraord9>y m9ut5ess & vivacity4 ,! f9e/1 & on ! :ole ! be/ pres]v$1 has 9 ! c5tre a female figure 9 full relief clo!d 9 a :ite robe & long gre5 cloak & a head-dress 9 ! =m ( leaves4 ,%e is seat$ 9 a field sewn ) fl[]s 9 ! mann] ( ! pictures ( ! p]iod1 & beh9d are gold5 rays#if 7,pl4 ,,xx1 #i74 ,! figure ^u ano!r jewel has a some:at simil> backgr\nd4 ,h] robe is :ite1 & h] head-dress & ! edges ( h] w+-l sleeves r$4 ,9 front ( bo? figures is a small clu/] ( preci\s /ones4 ,?\gh all ! objects 9 ?is rem>kable collection are ( ab\t ! same date1 !y diff] suffici5tly to make x cle> t1 l ! treasures f ,s>agossa1 !y owe _! pres5ce "h to ! devotion ( p]haps m ?an "o weal?y p]son to a highly rev]$ %r9e4 ,9 spite ( ! fact t ! majority are consid]ably damag$1 !y are yet eloqu5t pro(s ( ! magnific5t /yle ( liv+ at ! p]iod ( _! production1 & valuable examples ( ! ornam5ts ( ! ,middle ,ages ( :i* no o!r collection possesses s l>ge & *oice a v>iety4 #ie ,revue de l'art *rti51 #ahhg1 p4 #bgf2 & ,humann 7,g471 ,die ,kun/w]ke d] ,mn/]-,kir*e zu ,ess51 ,pl4 #fb4 #if ,comp>e ?is jewel ) un damoisell seant en un solaill 9 ,h5ry ,,iv's inv5tory4 ,9 date "o is dispos$ to place ^! broo*es 7or n\*es1 z !y w\ld be t]m$ 9 old ,engli% inv5tories7 9 ! fir/ half ( ! fifte5? c5tury--at lea/ z f> z ! figur$ pieces are conc]n$1 = jewell]y 9 pictures ( ! second half ( ! c5tury is mo/ly =m$ ( pe>ls & preci\s /ones alone4 ,jewell$ broo*es ( ?is k9d ornam5t$ ) figures 9 relief are p>ticul>ly well repres5t$ 9 ! works ( ! old] ,g]man pa9t]s & above all ^? ( ,/ephan ,lo*n] 7d4 #adea71 9 ^: ma/]piece 9 ,cologne ,ca!dral1 kn[n z ! ,dombild1 ! ,virg9 is se5 we>+ on h] brea/ a broo* ornam5t$ ) clu/]s ( pe>ls & ! figure ( a seat$ maid51 ) a unicorn re/+ "o foot on h] lap4#ig ,9 ano!r celebrat$ picture by ,ma/] ,/ephan--! ,virg9 ( ! ,rose-,arb\r1 9 ! ,cologne ,museum--! same subject is repres5t$ on ! m&orla1 or almond-%ap$1 broo* :i* closes ! ,virg9's robe2 :ile 9 a ?ird picture by him 9 ! ,episcopal ,museum ( ! same city--a picture :i*1 l ! re/1 be>s traces ( ,flemi% influ5ce--! ,virg9's broo* or morse is ornam5t$ ) a female figure seat$1 full face1 aft] ! mann] ( ! ,briti% ,museum & ,ess5 broo*es4#ih #ig ,comp>e ,h5ry ,,iv's i4 damoisell et i4 unicorn4 #ih ,! same motive is figur$ on a morse %[n on ! left w+ ( a picture 9 ! ,cologne ,museum kn[n z ! ,sipp5alt> 7by ! ,mei/] d] heilig5 ,sippe71 dat+ f ! end ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,! jewel is worn by ,s4 ,nicasius4 ,x is trefoil 9 %ape1 & decorat$ ) ! figure ( an angel1 full face1 hold+ a l>ge /one 9 front4 ,illu/ration3 ,broo* ( ! ,virg9 9 ,lo*n]'s ,dombild 7,cologne ,ca!dral74 ,su* is ! extraord9>y quality & extreme r>ity ( jewels ( ?is type t att5tion mu/ be drawn to yet two m examples3 "o 9 ! ,imp]ial ,collections at ,vi5na1 & ! o!r 9 ! ,c>r& ,collection 9 ! ,b>gello at ,flor5ce4 ,! =m] is a jewel ( q rem>kable "*4 ,)9 ! usual circle ( gold wire is a pair ( lov]s /&+ side by side ea* hold+ ! end ( a wrea?4 ,! figures1 dress$ 9 ,burgundian co/ume ( ! fifte5? c5tury & enamell$ ) v>i\s col\rs1 brea! ! _s ( ! m$ival am\rette z repres5t$ ^u ivory mirror-cases & jewel-caskets & 9 m9iatures ( ! twelf? to ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,betwe5 !m is a triangul> diamond set l ! example 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 & bel[ x a pale cabo*on ruby4 ,ar\nd are five pe>ls 7,pl4 ,,xx1 #h74ii ,! jewel at ,flor5ce 7#b in*es 9 diamet]7 has a bord] ( gre5 enamell$ leaves set ) pe>ls1 & 9 ! c5tre a f9ely modell$ figure ( a drom$>y 9 :ite enamel4 ,?is broo*1 :i* is 9 spl5did condition1 0 p]haps int5d$ to be worn1 z 7 "s o!r ( ^! pieces1 z an enseigne on ! hat or cap 7,pl4 ,,xvii1 #ab74 #ii ,?is jewel once =m$ "p ( ! treasure ( ! ,h\se ( ,burgundy1 & came into ! ,imp]ial ,collections ?r\gh ! m>riage ( ,m>y ( ,burgundy ) ! ,emp]or ,maximilian ,i4 ,:atev] may h be5 _! nationality1 a glance at ea*1 f ^? 9 ! ,briti% ,museum to ! "o la/ describ$1 is suffici5t to det]m9e ! id5tity ( _! s\rce ( inspiration4 ,all be> ! /amp ( ! ,flemi%-,burgundian art1 :i* ?r\gh\t ! fifte5? c5tury dom9at$ ! creations ( ! goldsmi?s1 z well z ! sculptors1 m9iaturi/s1 & tape/ry work]s1 ( ! entire we/ ( ,europe4 ,e "o ( ^! broo*es is wor?y ( ! mo/ c>eful exam9ation1 p>ticul>ly by ! craftsman ( ! pres5t day1 = unlike ! ornam5ts ( m anci5t times1 !y possess qualities :i* r5d] !m peculi>ly appropriate to ! circum/ances ( our lat] civilisation4 ,9 ! ref9em5t & simplicity ( _! arrangem5t & design ^! m$ival examples ( ! jewell]'s art transc5d _m ( ! greatly admir$ & m fam\s jewels ( ! ,r5aissance4 ,,*apt] ,,xviii ,,m$i,,val ,,r+s ,,& ,,bracelets ,( all classes ( m$ival jewell]y f+] r+s h be5 pres]v$ 9 ! greate/ numb]4 ,among ! v>i\s causes t h contribut$ to ?is result mu/ be reckon$ _! v g5]al use 9 =m] times1 _! comp>atively small value1 :i* (t5 sav$ !m f ! melt+-pot & ! fact t !y 7 almo/ ! only articles ( value usually buri$ ) ! dead4 ,z reg>ds ! use & =m ( ! f+] r+ dur+ ! ,middle ,ages1 we f9d t x reta9s 9 ! ma9 its primitive symbolical "*1 be+ employ$ z an emblem r ?an an ornam5t1 to signify ! inve/iture ( (fice1 ! b9d+ ( ! nuptial bond1 & especially z a signet4 ,?\gh ! occurr5ce ( num]\s r+s )\t a seal or o!r m>k proves _! g5]al acceptance z purely ornam5tal articles1 s deeply 0 ! _s ( ! age imbu$ ) lean+s t[>ds ! my/]i\s & ! occult1 t ne>ly e r+ is an annulus v]tuosus1 suppos$ to be end[$ ) "s talismanic or sanative efficacy4 ,= conv5i5ce sake m$ival r+s may be sep>at$ into f\r ma9 divisions3 7#a7 ecclesia/ical & devotional r+s2 7#b7 *>m r+s2 7#c7 love & m>riage r+s2 & 7#d7 ornam5tal r+s1 includ+ signets4 ,r+s h always be5 look$ ^u ) fav\r by ! ,*ur*2 !y 7 worn regul>ly by ! high] cl]gy1 & =m$ "p ( _! ecclesia/ical insignia4 ,! ,briti% ,museum1 by ! beque/ ( ,mr4 ,octavius ,morgan1 possesses an important collection ( gilt bronze f+] r+s ( enorm\s size1 ea* set ) a foil$ glass or cry/al4 ,mo/ ( !m be> on ! hoop symbols ( ! f\r evangeli/s1 ! ,ox1 ,lion1 ,angel1 & ,eagle1 z well z ! triple cr[n & cross$ keys ) ! arms ( v>i\s popes1 & sometimes ^? ( contempor>y rul]s1 mo/ly ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,^! s-call$ papal r+s1 ( :i* o!r examples1 & duplicates1 exi/1 are believ$ to h be5 pres5t$ or s5t by popes or c>d9als z emblems ( inve/iture :5 conf]r+ an (fice or dignity 7,pl4 ,,xxiii1 #aj74 ,a jewell$ r+ 0 always worn by a bi%op1 & 0 an ess5tial "p ( 8 co/ume :5 pontificat+4 ,x 0 specially made = him1 & usually w5t ) him to ! grave4 ,h5ce x happ5s t _m ( ^! r+s h surviv$1 & are pres]v$ bo? 9 museums--! collection 9 ! ,franks ,beque/ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum be+ ! mo/ ext5sive--& 9 ! ca!drals :]e !y h be5 f\nd4#ajj ,9 ! e>lie/ times bi%ops usually wore engrav$ r+s = use z signets1 b !y seem to h _h a l>ge jewell$ "o z well = c]emonial use4 ,accord+ to ! in/ructions ( ,pope ,innoc5t ,,iii 9 #aaid1 ! episcopal r+ 0 to be ( solid gold set ) a preci\s /one on :i* no?+ 0 to be cut2 h5ce ! ?irte5?-c5tury r+s are at times some:at rudely fa%ion$1 ) ! %ape ( ! bezel adapt$ to ! gem j z x 0 f\nd1 its surface m]ely be+ poli%$4 ,among ! /ones usually *os5 = ! purpose 7 ! ruby indicat+ glory1 ! sapphire purity1 ! em]ald tranquillity & happ9ess1 & cry/al simplicity4 ,antique gems 9 e>li] times 7 also worn1 & on "s r+s an inscription is add$ to give a ,*ri/ian "n to ! pagan figure2 b o!rs 7 m]ely reg>d$ z ornam5ts )\t mean+1 l "o dat+ f ! twelf? c5tury 9 ! ,wat]ton ,collection1 :i* be>s a ,roman cameo 9 plasma ( a female head 9 high relief2 or l ! curi\s example f\nd 9 ! c(f9 ( ,seffrid1 ,bi%op ( ,*i*e/] 7d4 #aaea71 9 :i* is m\nt$ a ,gno/ic intaglio4 ,! mo/ usual =m ( r+1 & "o :i* seems to h be5 res]v$ *iefly = bi%ops1 is ( a po9t$ or /irrup %ape4 ,x is commonly f\nd set ) a small sapphire1 m r>ely ) an em]ald1 & sometimes1 z 9 ,william ( ,wykeham's r+ at ,new ,college1 ) a ruby 7,pl4 ,,xxiii1 #a74 ,! fa%ion = ?is type appe>s to h la/$ f ! ?irte5? to ! fifte5? c5tury4 #ajj ,among/ o!rs !re are ?ree 9 ea* ( ! ca!drals ( ,*i*e/]1 ,york1 ,w9*e/]1 & ,durham1 & two at ,h]e=d 7,ar*ologia1 ,,xlv1 p4 #djd74 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxiii ,,m$i,,val ,,& ,,lat] ,,r+s ,! episcopal r+ 0 =m]ly worn on ! "r h&1 b is plac$ at ! pres5t day ^u ! annul> f+]--! ?ird f+] ( ! left h&4 ,n m ?an "o episcopal r+ is n[ worn1 b on sepul*ral effigies & e>ly pictures bi%ops are repres5t$ ) ?ree or f\r r+s on ! "r h&1 n infrequ5tly ^u ! second jo9t ( ! f+]s1 & also ^u ! ?umb4 ,!y 7 g5]ally worn ov] ! gloves1 ! backs ( :i* 7 ornam5t$ 9 addition ) a l>ge jewel4 ,^! r+s 7 (t51 !re=e1 ( consid]able size1 s t :5 worn )\t a glove a gu>d-r+ 0 necess>y to prev5t _! fall+ (f4#aja ,mitr$ abbots 7 all[$ to we> ! r+2 by o!rs x might be worn1 b n dur+ ! celebration ( ! ,mass4 ,! use ( a r+ 0 =bidd5 to ! l[] cl]gy4 #aja ,wat]ton 7,e471 ,episcopal r+s 7,ar*4 ,j\rn41 ,,xx1 p4 #bbd71 #ahfc4 ,among ! r+s to be class$ "u ! head+ ( religi\s or devotional r+s1 ! mo/ important are ! s-call$ iconographic r+s1 t is1 ^? :i* h on ! bezels1 or on ! %\ld]s1 :i* are g5]ally groov$ or flut$1 figures ( ! ,virg9 & ,*ild1 or ( patron sa9ts4 ,!y are ne>ly all ( ! same /yle ( workman%ip & date almo/ exclusively f ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,!y are peculi> to ,engl& & ,scotl&4 ,sev]al examples are pres]v$ 9 ! ,national ,museum ( ,antiquities at ,ed9burgh 7p4 #ajd71 & o!rs 9 ! ?ree great ,engli% r+ collections4 ,illu/ration3 ,engli% gold r+1 fifte5? c5tury4 ,engrav$ ) ! ,annunciation1 & ! words en bon an4 ,devotional r+s ( ! same date1 & mo/ly ( ,engli% workman%ip1 h broad hoops1 "s engrav$ ) sacr$ monograms1 "s ) holy names su* z ,,jesus & ,,m>ia1 & o!rs ) ! names ( ! ,?ree ,k+s1 spelt 9 all mann] ( ways4 ,two exquisite ,engli% gold r+s ( ?is k9d1 dat+ f ! fir/ half ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 are 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,"o1 f\nd at ,cov5try 9 #ahjb1 is engrav$ ) ! five w\nds ( ,*ri/1 toge!r ) ! leg5ds describ+ !m1 & on ! inside an inscription conta9+ ! names ( ! ,?ree ,k+s ( ,cologne 7,pl4 ,,xxiii1 #d1 #e74ajb ,! o!r r+ 0 dug up at ,god/[ ,priory1 ne> ,ox=d1 & is ( small diamet]1 suit$ = a lady's f+]1 b has a broad hoop engrav$ ) sacr$ figures4 ,x appe>s to h be5 employ$ z a love r+1 = )9 ! hoop is an inscription :i* runs ?us3 ,mo/ 9 mynd & yn myn h]rt4 ,lo!/ f y f] to dep>tt#ajc 7,pl4 ,,xxiii1 #f74 #ajb ,ar*ologia1 ,,xviii1 p4 #cjf4 #ajc ,ar*4 ,j\rn41 ,,xx1 p4 #aie4 ,ano!r =m ( religi\s or devotional r+ :i* 0 sometimes us$ 9 place ( ! ord9>y ros>y ( beads 0 ! decade r+4 ,?is 0 s call$ f its usually hav+ at int]vals r\nd ! hoop t5 knobs :i* 7 us$ = repeat+ t5 ,aves1 & a head or bezel = ! ,pat]no/]4 ,f+] r+s1 to an ev5 great] ext5t ?an any o!r species ( m$ival jewell]y1 7 design$ to act z talismans or amulets2 & !y s]v$1 m ?an any o!r purpose1 t ( *>ms4 ,_! virtue 0 imp>t$ sometimes by ! /one1 & sometimes by ! device1 inscription1 or magical lett]s engrav$ ^u !m4 ,! my/ic virtues attribut$ to /ones z well z to engrav$ gems dur+ ! ,middle ,ages has be5 frequ5tly allud$ to4 ,among ! diff]5t /ones 7l ! sapphire1 = in/ance1 ! v ^w = :i* implies protection aga9/ drunk5ness7 c>ri$ 9 ! bezel ( ! r+1 :i* 7 suppos$ to make ! we>] pro( aga9/ evil influ5ces1 ! mo/ valu$ 0 ! toad/one 7,pl4 ,,xxiii1 #i74 ,x 0 suppos$ to be f\nd 9 ! head ( a toad1 b is 9 reality ! fossil palatal too? ( a species ( fi%--! ray4 ,a toad/one--also kn[n z crapaud9e & batra*ites--9 a r+ 0 said to indicate ! pres5ce ( poison by p]spir+ & *ang+ col\r4 ,toad/ones 7 mu* s\ght aft]1 & 7 highly priz$1 ev5 9 ,%akespe>e's day4 ,sweet are ! uses ( adv]sity2 ,:i*1 l ! toad1 ugly & v5om\s1 ,we>s yet a preci\s jewel 9 8 head4 7,z y l x1 ,,ii1 #a47 ,b5 ,jonson alludes to ! cu/om ( we>+ ! /one 9 r+s3-- ,7 y enam\r'd on 8 copp] r+s1 ,8 saffron jewel1 ) ! toad-/one 9't8 7,volpone1 ,,ii1 #e47 ,9 addition to ! /ones already m5tion$1 greatly valu$ 0 ! ,turkey-/one or turquoise1 z ! ,compassionate turcoyse1 :i* do? tell1 ,by look+ pale1 ! we>] is n well4 7,donne1 ,anatomie ( ! ,_w47 ,x 0 8 turquoise r+ :i* ,%ylock w\ld n h lo/ = a wild]ness ( monkeys4 ,! use ( *>m r+s seems to h be5 n uncommon 9 e>ly times4 ,x 0 "o ( ! articles ( impea*m5t aga9/ ,hub]t de ,burgh1 ! great ju/ici> ( ,h5ry ,,iii1 t :]eas ! ,k+ _h 9 8 treasury a r+ :i* r5d]$ ! we>] inv9cible 9 battle1 8 m9i/] furtively remov$ ! same & be/[$ x ^u ,llewellyn ( ,wales4 ,z *>m r+s1 too1 mu/ be reckon$ ^? :i* enclos$ small relics4 ,b r+s s us$ seem = ! mo/ "p to h be5 worn atta*$ by a ribbon or *a9 to ! neck1 & n on ! f+]4 ,s9ce su* highly valu$ objects z *>m$ /ones c\ld only be obta9$ by a few1 cabali/ic inscriptions (t5 took _! place4 ,_m ( ! devotional r+s ) ! names ,jesus1 ,m>y1 & ,joseph engrav$ on !m1 7 us$ z a pres]vative aga9/ ! plague2 b ! mo/ popul> inscription 01 z has be5 se51 ! names ( ! ,?ree ,k+s ( ! ,ea/1 :i* 7 a p[]ful *>m aga9/ p]il by travel & sudd5 dea?4 ,su* r+s 7 worn aga9/ ! cramp4 ,!re 7 also c>act r+s ( sup]/iti\s use1 :i* bore *>ms 9 ! =m ( inscriptions1 su* z ,,ananizapta4 ,_m o!r r+s ( ?is class h cabali/ic names & /range b>b>ic words & comb9ations utt]ly un9telligible4 ,! fyancel or w$d+ r+ appe>s to be ( ,roman orig91 & 0 usually giv5 at ! betro?al z a pl$ge ( ! engagem5t4 ,two =ms ( ^! r+s are ! gimmel & ! posy r+s4 ,gimmel r+s 7,fr5*1 jumelle1 a tw97 are compos$ ( two hoops =m+1 :5 clos$1 "o r+1 & s con/ruct$ z to play :5 op5 "o )9 ! o!r4 ,!y are ( two sorts3 ^? :i* are ei!r pla9 or set ) preci\s /ones1 & ^? :i* h ! device ( ! f$e or two "r h&s jo9$4 ,inscriptions or mottoes1 z a rule 9 ,norman-,fr5*1 are to be f\nd on r+s ( ! f\rte5?1 & m frequ5tly on ^? ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,!y 7 call$ *ansons & also resons or reasons1 & lat]1 poesies1 posies1 or posys4 ,^! love inscriptions1 g5]ally engrav$ on ! outside ( ! r+ 7?\gh plac$ inside 9 ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies7 are = ! mo/ "p ! same z ^? f\nd on ! broo*es ( ! "t1 inscriptions su* z ,je suis ici en lieu d'ami1 & ! l1 be+ ( frequ5t occurr5ce4 ,m r>ely ! motto is 9 ,engli%1 z on ! beautiful iconographic gold r+ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,new ,ye>'s ,day among ! ,romans 0 a dies fau/us & objects ( jewell]y 7 usually among ! pres5ts :i* x 0 ! cu/om to ex*ange on t occasion4 ,9 ! ,middle ,ages also ! adv5t ( ! ,new ,ye> 0 celebrat$ by ! be/[al ( pres5ts4 ,among ^! e/r5nes jewell]y 0 a prom95t item1 & on ! r+s ( ! p]iod 7l ! "o figur$ on p4 #aej7 ! inscription1 en bon an frequ5tly occurs4 ,a v ext5sive gr\p ( m$ival f+] r+s is =m$ by signets4 ,^! are m>k$ ) "s device1 su* z an animal1 a bird1 a tree1 or any o!r object1 s t !y c\ld be easily recognis$2 h5ce !y 7 (t5 giv5 z cr$5tials to a mess5g]4 ,9 ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies r+s ( silv]1 & occasionally ( gold1 occur1 ) a cre/ or coat-(-arms1 or ) devices 9 ! =m ( initials1 & c]ta9 arbitr>y signs call$ m]*ants' m>ks1 :i* 7 us$ by m]*ants & o!rs n entitl$ to armorial be>+s4 ,pi]s ,pl[man speaks ( m]*antes m]kes ym$el$ 9 glasse4 ,su* r+s 7 (t5 worn on ! ?umb4 ,?\gh armorial signets 7 worn 9 ,italy z e>ly z ! f\rte5? c5tury1 !y 7 n common 9 ,engl& till ! comm5cem5t ( ! sixte5?4 ,some:at simil> are c]ta9 devotional signet r+s ( silv] or base metal engrav$ ) an initial--g5]ally ! lett] ,i surm\nt$ by a coronet4 ,! ,i is probably ! initial ( ! ,savi\r's "n1 su* r+s be+ worn f a belief 9 ! efficacy ( holy names z pres]vatives f evil4 ,9 connection ) ! m$ival use ( anci5t engrav$ /ones1 ! fa%ion ( we>+ ,roman intaglios 9 r+s has already be5 notic$4 ,^u ! metal sett+ ar\nd ^! gems a leg5d 9 ,lat9 0 (t5 engrav$2 ! mo/ usual inscription be+ ,,sigillum ,,secreti1 ,,sigillum ,,meum1 or ! ^w ,,sigillum1 foll[$ by ! "n ( ! own] 7,pl4 ,,xxiii1 #aa74 ,r+s :i* h ! appe>ance ( be+ purely ornam5tal 7 worn ?r\gh\t ! ,middle ,ages 9 consid]able numb]s bo? by m5 & wom52 yet at ! same "t x mu/ ev] be borne 9 m9d t ! /ones set 9 !m _h probably 9 ! eyes ( ! possessors a value q indep5d5t ( _! use z ornam5ts4 ,9 ! ,gold ,ornam5t ,room ( ! ,briti% ,museum is a collection ( five ,engli% r+s ( silv] ( ! twelf? c5tury4 ,!y are ( small intr9sic value1 b ( consid]able int]e/ z au!nticat$ examples ( ornam5tal r+s ( ! p]iod2 = ) ! exception ( ^? f\nd on ! f+]s ( prelates1 ! date ( e>ly r+s is sometimes difficult to det]m9e4 ,! r+s 7 dug up at ,l>k ,hill1 ne> ,worce/]1 9 #ahed1 toge!r ) upw>ds ( two hundr$ p5nies ( ,h5ry ,,ii4 ,!y probably date1 !re=e1 f ab\t ! end ( ! c5tury4#ajd #ajd ,ar*ologia1 ,,xxxvi1 p4 #bjj4 ,illu/ration3 ,fr5* gold r+1 f\rte5? c5tury 7,l\vre74 ,! peculi>ity ( _m ( ! ri*] ornam5tal r+s ( ?is p]iod is ! t5d5cy to place ! /one ^u a high case or /alk1 s t ! bezel is rais$ consid]ably above ! h&4 ,a curi\s example1 dat+ f ! f\rte5? c5tury1 is 9 ! ,sauvageot ,collection 9 ! ,gal]ie d',apollon ( ! ,l\vre4 ,x %[s two dragons' heads issu+ f cr[n-%ap$ ornam5ts support+ a sapphire 9 a high collet4 ,9 ! fifte5? c5tury a l>ge numb] ( r+s appe> to h be5 habitually worn2 & on ! monum5t ( ,lady ,/af=d 9 ,bromsgrove ,*ur*1 ,worce/]%ire 7#adej71 e f+] b ! la/ "o on ! "r h& is decorat$ ) a r+4 ,9 _m ( ! ,flemi% pictures ( ! same date we f9d ornam5tal r+s set ) table-cut or cabo*on /ones4 ,! =m ( ^! is admirably repres5t$ 9 ! portrait ( a goldsmi?1 ascrib$ to ,g]>d ,david1 9 ! ,royal ,gall]y at ,vi5na4 ,9 8 "r h& he holds "o r+1 & 9 ! left a %ort roll ( p>*m5t1 on :i* are plac$ f\r m4 ,! r+s are some:at massive1 & ?ick5 t[>ds ! bezel1 :]e !y are m\nt$ ) table-cut /ones )9 pla9 claw sett+s4 ,9 ! same gall]y is ,john van ,eyck's portrait1 dat$ #adcf1 ( ,john ,de ,leeuw1 jewell] to ,philip ! ,good1 ,duke ( ,burgundy4 ,he holds betwe5 ! ?umb & =ef+] ( 8 "r h& a gold r+ set ) a small cabo*on /one4 ,?is notice ( m$ival f+] r+s may be conclud$ by draw+ att5tion to a picture :i*1 9 view ( ! jewell]y ( ! ,middle ,ages1 is "o ( ! mo/ fasc9at+ ( all ! productions ( ! ,flemi% s*ool4 ,! panel 9 "q1 ! prop]ty ( ,b>on ,a4 ,opp5heim1 ( ,cologne1 repres5ts ! leg5d ( ,/4 ,godeb]ta & ,/4 ,eloy4 ,x 0 pa9t$ 9 ! ye> #addi = ! corporation ( goldsmi?s ( ,antw]p by ,petrus ,*ri/us1 :o fl\ri%$ 9 ! fir/ half ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 & di$ at ,bruges ab\t #adgb4 ,appropriately en\gh1 ! patron sa9t ( goldsmi?s is figur$ 9 8 %op2 & ! picture ?us af=ds u a s+ul>ly int]e/+ & attractive repres5tation ( ! int]ior ( a jewell]'s %op 9 ! middle ( ! fifte5? c5tury ) e detail ( its glitt]+ cont5ts4 ,/4 ,eloy or ,eligius1 ^: figure1 = all we "k1 may be ! portrait ( "s well-kn[n jewell] ( ! day1 is se5 seat$ at ! goldsmi?'s b5*1 beside :i* /& ,dagob]t1 ,k+ ( ,france1 & ,/4 ,godeb]ta4 ,he is employ$ 9 weigh+ ! r+ ) :i* ! ,k+ seeks to esp\se ! ,virg9 ,sa9t2 b in/ead1 s ! leg5d runs1 ( giv+ h] ! engagem5t r+1 he slipp$ on h] f+] a ruby r+1 my/ically esp\s+ h] to ,*ri/4 ,! ,k+ we>s1 p9n$ to ! front ( 8 black *ap]on1 a broo* or enseigne1 set ) a ruby surr\nd$ by f\r pe>ls & hav+ a p5d5t drop4 ,r\nd 8 neck is a curb *a9 ( alt]nate pla9 & bead$ l9ks1 f :i* hangs a jewel =m$ ( two lions affronts4 ,godeb]ta's head-dress1 or esc(fion1 is ( embroid]$ gold sewn ) pe>ls4 ,! p5dant ( h] neck-*a91 hidd5 by ! bodice1 lies betwe5 ! brea/s4 ,v c>efully r5d]$ is ea* item ( ! *oice collection ( objects t =ms ! goldsmi?'s /ock-9-trade1 exhibit$ on a /all cov]$ ) :ite l95 on ! left h& ( ! goldsmi?-sa9t4 ,bel[ is a box ( r+s1 "s pla91 "s m\nt$1 rang$ along ?ree rolls ( p>*m5t4 ,beside !m lie l>ge pe>ls & preci\s /ones1 & se$ pe>ls sort$ 9 a %ell by !mselves4 ,beh9d1 aga9/ ! back1 re/ a bran* ( coral & oblong pieces ( rock cry/al & ( opaque /one ( porphyry-r$4 ,above1 on a piece ( d>k clo?1 hang ?ree spl5did jewels--a p5dant & two broo*es1 & next to !m a pair ( too?-l p5dants1 probably glossopetr4 ,f ! %elf on ! top is susp5d$ a /r+ ( r$1 amb]1 & pale blue ros>y beads1 & 9 ! middle a girdle end ( br[n lea!r ) buckle & m\nts ( gild$ metal4 ,! rema9d] ( ! collection1 =m$ ( v>i\s vessels1 comprises a cry/al cyl9d] set ) gold & preci\s /ones & a m\nt$ cocoanut cup2 & on ! upp] %elf a cov]$ cup & a c\ple ( tall flagons ( silv] p>cel-gilt4 ,?is rem>kable picture at once br+s to m9d t /rangely int]e/+ s]ies ( int]iors aft]w>ds produc$ by ,qu5t9 ,matsys & ,m>9us van ,rom]swael1 repres5t+ money-*ang]s1 bank]s1 or usur]s busily engag$ 9 c\nt+ up or weigh+ co9s scatt]$ be=e !m on a table1 ^u :i* also sometimes lie a h&some r+ or two1 a ri*ly jewell$ p5dant1 or unset preci\s /ones & pe>ls4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxiv ,,picture1 ,,kn[n ,,z ,,! ,,leg5d ,,( ,,/4 ,,eloy ,,& ,,/4 ,,godeb]ta1 ,,repres5t+ ,,! ,,int]ior ,,( ,a ,,goldsmi?',s ,,%op ,,9 ,,! ,,fifte5? ,,c5tury ,,by ,,petrus ,,*ri/us ,,( ,,bruges ,,bracelets ,bracelets 7 z little 9 vogue z e>r+s dur+ ! ,middle ,ages1 & rem>ks made conc]n+ ! latt] apply also to bracelets1 9 t !y only appe> z ! l+]+ traces ( ,byzant9e fa%ions :i*1 until ! comm5cem5t ( ! twelf? c5tury1 made !mselves /rongly felt ?r\gh\t ! :ole ( ,europe4 ,9 ! ,national ,museum at ,muni* is a gold armlet =m$ ( two h+$ halves cov]$ ) filigree & bead$ ornam5t4 ,its out] rims are ( twi/$ gold1 & )9 are b&s ( f9e plait$ wire4 ,x is adorn$ ) bosses ( filigree alt]nat+ ) pyramidal projections4 ,! orig9 ( ?is f9e ornam5t is unkn[n1 b x probably dates f ab\t ! elev5? or twelf? c5tury 7,pl4 ,,xviii1 #f74 ,! ,national ,museum ( ,buda-,pe/h conta9s a pair ( v simil> armlets4 ,9 connection ) ^! ornam5ts ! p]si/5ce ( tradition 9 goldsmi?'s "w is curi\sly se51 s9ce armlets closely resembl+ ! e>li] examples are made & worn 9 ,cairo at ! pres5t day4 ,dur+ ! latt] "p ( ! ,middle ,ages x appe>s to h be5 a common practice = ladies to we> ros>ies or *aplets ( beads ^u _! wri/s z bracelets4 ,) ^! exceptions1 ! long sleeves t 7 worn ?r\gh\t ! great] "p ( ! ,middle ,ages did n fav\r ! use ( an ornam5t t dem&$ ! b>e sk9 z a f\ndation4 ,ornam5tal circlets r\nd ! upp] arm1 :i* are n infrequ5tly met ) 9 pictures1 mu/ be reg>d$ z gold-embroid]$ edg+s or b&s4 ,x is true !y 7 frequ5tly set ) pe>ls1 /ones1 & decorations 9 gold1 b z !y 7 sewn ^u ! sleeves !y h no actual claim to ! "n ( armlets4 ,armlets or bracelets appe> to h be5 worn to a c]ta9 ext5t t[>ds ! close ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 b to h be5 res]v$ *iefly = summ] we>4 ,if ! bracelets we ord]$ mon?s ago are n "h till ! summ] is ov] & we no long] we> our arms b>e1 !y w be ( no use4 ,s1 ab\t #adia1 says ,mrs4 ,ady1 wrote ! fam\s ,isabella d',e/e1 ,m>*ioness ( ,mantua1 to ! skill$ goldsmi?1 ,ercole ,f$eli1 ( ,f]r>a1 :o _h fail$ to execute h] ord] punctually4 ,! dilator9ess ( ! same arti/ on ano!r occasion kept ! m>*ioness wait+ f\r ye>s = a pair ( silv] bracelets1 & !y w\ld nev]1 %e decl>$1 h be5 f9i%$ 9 h] lifetime if ,duke ,alfonso _h n ?r[n him into ! ,ca/ello dungeon4#aje #aje ,c>twright 7,j471 ,isabella d',e/e1 ,i1 p4 #gc4 ,?\gh !re are o!r ref]5ces to ! use ( bracelets 9 ! fifte5? c5tury1 x 0 n until ab\t ! middle ( ! c5tury foll[+ t ?is species ( ornam5t came into g5]al use4 ,illu/ration3 ,a goldsmi? 9 8 work%op4 ,f ,hortus ,sanitatis 7,/rasburg1 #aecf74 ,,*apt] ,,xix ,,m$i,,val ,,belts ,,& ,,girdles ,! girdle or ce9ture ( elaborate workman%ip =m$ no inconsid]able "p ( ! jewell]y ( ! weal?y 9 ! ,middle ,ages4 ,?\gh actual examples are extremely r>e1 !re is sc>cely an effigy or picture f ! ?irte5? c5tury to ! beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? :i* does n supply u ) "s v>i$ =m ( ?is indisp5sable article2 :ile ! wills & inv5tories ( ! p]iod (t5 conta9 descriptions ( girdles ( extraord9>y ri*ness4 ,by ! poor1 too1 ! girdle 0 habitually worn1 b ) !m x frequ5tly dw9dl$ d[n to a few metal knobs sewn on to lea!r or on to co>se clo?4 ,9 addition to ! upp] girdle = fa/5+ r\nd ! wai/1 a l[] girdle 0 worn1 bo? z an ornam5t & z a belt = ! sword4 ,x 0 a broad & sometimes /iff b& :i* loosely encircl$ ! body ab\t ! hips1 & 9 ! case ( male attire 0 sometimes atta*$ to ! l[] bord] ( ! tunic1 ) :i* x conv]g$4 ,( ! n>r[] & m pliable species ( girdle1 ! portions res]v$ = special enri*m5t 7 ! ends1 "o ( :i* t]m9at$ 9 ! buckle1 & ! o!r 9 ! p5dant or mordant4 ,"s acc\nt ( ! buckle & ( its plate1 to :i* ! /rap ( ! girdle is atta*$1 has already be5 giv5 9 ! ,introduction4 ,always a fav\rite field 9 =m] times = ! display ( ! jewell]'s art1 x 0 likewise ri*ly adorn$ by ! goldsmi?s ( ! lat] ,middle ,ages4 ,at ! o!r end ( ! girdle 0 a metal atta*m5t or *ape :i* gave x consi/5cy :]e x 0 mo/ requir$4 ,?is girdle end1 :i* hung d[n & 0 kn[n z ! tag or p5dant1 0 decorat$ ) v>i\s designs frequ5tly ( an ar*itectural "* & sometimes set ) preci\s /ones2 b :5ev] su* decorations project$ beyond ! sides ( ! /rap ! buckle 0 made wid] 9 l mann]1 & if tassels & o!r ornam5ts 7 add$ !y 7 always ( su* size t !y c\ld pass easily ?r\gh ! buckle4 ,! metal %ape ?us cov]+ ! end ( ! belt 0 also call$ ! mordant 7( ! same d]ivation z ! ^w morse71 especially if 9 ! abs5ce ( a buckle x 0 s con/ruct$ z to hook on to a clasp to facilitate secur+ ! belt r\nd ! p]son4 ,! mordant (t5 =ms ) ! buckle-plate a s+le design1 its decorat$ front be+ ei!r z l>ge z ! plate1 or ( su* a %ape z to =m ) x a regul> figure4 ,f ! twelf? c5tury1 :5 f sepul*ral monum5ts#ajf we obta9 our fir/ in=mation respect+ ! girdle1 until ! sev5te5?1 we ne>ly always f9d t ! end1 :5 pass$ ?r\gh ! buckle1 0 twi/$ r\nd ! wai/-/rap & hung d[n 9 front1 9 ! case ( m5 ab\t twelve in*es & ) wom5 almo/ to ! gr\nd4 ,b :51 in/ead ( a buckle1 a clasp =m$ ( a c5tral /ud or rosette 0 employ$1 ei!r ! end ( ! girdle itself hung d[n1 or an additional *a9 0 atta*$ at ! po9t ( junction4 ,to ?is 0 sometimes susp5d$ a pom&]-box1 tablets1 or a p5d5t reliqu>y4 ,?is mode1 h[ev]1 ( susp5d+ su* objects did n come g5]ally into vogue till ! "t ( ! ,r5aissance1 & :5 worn 9 ! e>li] p]iod at ! girdle !y 7 hung at ! side f a hook1 some:at l a *atela9e4 #ajf ,_m admirable repres5tations ( girdles are figur$ 9 ,/o?>d's ,monum5tal effigies ( ,great ,brita94 ,! girdle itself 0 usually ab\t two y>ds 9 l5g?1 & consi/$ ( a /rap ( /amp$ lea!r1 or a b& ( mat]ial ) a firm f\ndation1 ^u :i* 7 set button-%ap$ decorations at regul> int]vals4 ,?is 0 kn[n z ! /udd$ girdle 7ce9ture f]re74 ,among ! weal?y ! /uds 7 compos$ ( ! preci\s metals1 aga9/ :i* ! sumptu>y laws bo? at home & abroad 7( little effect x w\ld seem7 conta9$ special prohibitions4 ,! /uds ^u ! girdles ( ! poor 7 g5]ally ( ! alloy ( brass & t9 call$ latt5 or laton1 & ! t]m pe>l$ ) lat\n is m5tion$ 9 ! ,cant]bury ,tales4 ,!re is /ill 9 exi/5ce 9 ! ,city ( ,london ! ,girdl]s' ,company1 :i* is ( great antiquity4 ,by a *>t] grant$ !m by ,edw>d ,,iii 9 #acbg x 0 =bidd5 to ! girdl]s to g>ni% any girdle ( silk1 wool1 lea!r or l95 ?read1 ) any inf]ior metal ?an latt51 copp]1 iron1 & /eel1 & if any girdles 7 g>ni%$ ) lead pewt]1 or t91 ! same %\ld be burn$1 & ! workm5 puni%$ = _! false "w4#ajg ,9 spite ( ?is prohibition girdles appe> to h be5 frequ5tly m\nt$ ) ! bas] metals1 & a consid]able numb] ) m\nt+s ( pewt] h be5 discov]$4 ,_! ord9ance1 z did t ( laton]s or work]s 9 latt51 likewise =bade girdl]s f int]f]+ ) ! trade ( ! goldsmi?s by m\nt+ girdles or g>t]s ) gold or silv]2 & t if a girdl] wi%$ to h>ness 8 goods ) ei!r ( ! preci\s metals he 0 oblig$ to employ a goldsmi?4 ,9 #acgf a girdl] ( ! ,city ( ,london 0 accus$ ( hav+ secretly made 9 8 *amb] a c]ta9 girdle t 0 h>ness$ ) silv]4 ,^u be+ br\ght be=e ! ju/ices he plead$ t 8 (f5ce 0 a light "o comp>$ ) ! m s]i\s fraud ( plat+ ) silv] objects ( base metal4 ,he 0 dismiss$ ) a w>n+4 ,subsequ5tly he 0 convict$ ( ! v fraud he himself _h m5tion$1 & puni%$ ) a heavy f9e4#ajh ,! "w ( ! ,engli% goldsmi?s 9 ! adornm5t ( girdles appe>s to h be5 well kn[n & recognis$ ^u ! ,cont95t1 & an inv5tory ( ! jewels ( ! ,duke & ,du*ess ( ,orleans 9 #adjh m5tions a girdle ( ri* goldwork set ) pe>ls & sapphires de la faon d',anglet]re4 #ajg ,riley 7,h4 ,t471 ,memorials ( ,london & ,london life1 p4 #aed4 #ajh ,riley1 op4 cit41 p4 #cii4 ,! m$ival girdle1 seldom z 9 lat] times 9 ! =m ( a *a91 b g5]ally compos$ ( lea!r1 0 sometimes ornam5t$ 9 ! mo/ co/ly mann]4 ,9 ! inv5tory ( ,edw>d ,,ii is a girdle 9 ! old /yle probably filigree-"w set ) lett]s ( pe>ls3 ! buckle & mordant enamell$ ) escut*eons ( ! arms ( ,engl& & o!rs4#aji ,9 ! exp5ses ( ! ,great ,w>drobe ( ,edw>d ,,iii#aaj !re occurs an entry ( #cjd doz5s ( silv] buckles1 & a simil> numb] ( p5dants1 :ile 8 jewels deposit$ 9 ! ,treasury includ$ _m complete girdles enri*$ ) enamels & preci\s /ones4#aaa ,f ! _m fifte5?-c5tury girdles ( extraord9>y ri*ness describ$ 9 ! inv5tories1 ! foll[+1 ! prop]ty ( ,h5ry ,,iv1 may be select$ z an example3 ,item1 a girdle ( black silk1 ( gold1 g>ni%$ ) v>i\s /ones4 ,) #bh b>s#aab ( gold1 #ac ( :i* are set ) #ac balasses1 & #d pe>ls at ! corn]s1 & #ad b>s1 ea* enamell$ ) v>i\s fl[]s1 & on ea* #d pe>ls4 ,set on ! buckle is "o balas1 #aj l>ge & #f small pe>ls4 ,on ! p5dant "o balas1 #h l>ge & #e small pe>ls4 #aji ,inv5tories ( ! ,ex*equ]1 ,,iii1 p4 #adb4 #aaj ,ar*ologia1 ,,xxxi1 p4 #ee4 #aaa ,inv5tories1 etc41 ,,iii1 pp4 #agd1 #ahd4 #aab ,^! b>s ( metal 7 atta*$ v]tically at int]vals to ! belt or girdle to ma9ta9 ! rigidity ( ! mat]ial4 ,! ^w b> 7correspond+ to ! ,fr5* cl\7 0 subsequ5tly appli$ to all su* atta*m5ts1 :i* 7 sometimes p]=at$ to all[ ! tongue ( ! buckle to pass ?r\gh !m 7,way1 ,prompt4 p>v41 p4 #bd74 ,?is entry probably ref]s to ! broad] & ri*] k9d ( girdle1 kn[n z ! milit>y belt 7c+ulum72#aac a simil> belt be+ also worn by wom54 ,x 0 g5]ally employ$ by m51 z 0 sometimes ! n>r[ girdle1 = ! purpose ( hang+ ! sword4 ,?is belt1 frequ5tly compos$ ( silk or gold tissue1 seems to h come into g5]al use ab\t ! f\rte5? c5tury1 & 0 worn r\nd ! hips4 ,x 0 (t5 furni%$ ) a buckle & mordant1 b 0 m usually unit$ by a clasp1 :i* at times 0 made v prom95t1 & assum$ excessive dim5sions4 ,girdles & belts 9 ! ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies 7 sometimes /udd$ ) m$allions ( ,limoges enamel4 ,!re is 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum a beautiful fifte5?-c5tury ,italian belt ( gold tissue 7,pl4 ,,xxxviii1 #a74 ,its buckle1 /uds1 & o!r ornam5ts are ( gilt metal1 & ! broad buckle-plate is enri*$ ) niello "w1 be>+ ! leg5d ,virtus v9cit4 ,two silv]-gilt plates f a ,go?ic girdle ( ,flemi% "w ( ! fifte5? c5tury are 9 ! possession ( ,h]r ,james ,simon1 ( ,b]l94 ,ea* plate is almo/ squ>e1 & measures #a by #a in*es4 ,! c5tres are sunk3 )9 "o is a figure ( ,samson & ! ,lion1 & 9 ! o!r a figure on horseback1 probably ,/4 ,george or ,/4 ,mi*ael4 ,! figures1 9 full relief & delicately modell$1 are ea* surr\nd$ by pe>ls & blossoms1 ! gr\ndwork be+ cov]$ ) bright gre5 enamel1 on :i* are small dots ( :ite enamel capp$ ) r$4 ,! plates are ornam5t$ at ea* corn] ) *as$ ,go?ic foliage1 & h h+es at ! sides to unite !m to o!r simil> sections1 ( :i* ! complete girdle 01 p]haps1 orig9ally compos$ 7,pl4 ,,xxv1 #d74 #aac ,h>t%orne 7,a471 ,swordbelts ( ! ,middle ,ages 7,ar*4 ,j\rn41 ,,xlviii1 p4 #cbj74 ,( frequ5t occurr5ce 9 old ,engli% wills is ! ^w demys5t 7or demys5s71 :i* ref]s to ! little girdles worn by wom53 !y 7 kn[n 9 ,france z demi-ce9ts or demi-ce9tures4 ,ano!r species ( girdle 0 call$ ! baldrick--d]iv$ f ! ,fr5* baudri]2 ! baudroi] be+ ! curri] :o prep>$ sk9s = ! purpose4 ,! t]m baldric or baudric1 sometimes appli$ to ! milit>y belt worn r\nd ! wai/1 0 g5]ally employ$ = a belt worn ov] "o %\ld]1 across ! brea/1 & "u ! opposite arm4#aad ,x 0 (t5 ( a ri* description & set ) preci\s /ones1 & 9 e>ly times 0 occasionally hung ) little bells4#aae #aad ,way1 ,prompt4 p>v41 p4 #bg1 n4 #b4 #aae ,!re is ! possibility t bells 7 worn z amulets1 ?\gh n necess>ily int5d$ z su* by _! we>]s4 ,le son de l'aira91 l ! t9kl+ ornam5ts ( ! daught]s ( ,zion 7,isa4 ,,iii4 #ah71 0 ?\ght to h a prophylactic virtue4 ,! d\ble-tail m]maids ( silv] /ill worn 9 ,naples z *>ms aga9/ ! evil eye are always hung ) little bells 7,elwor?y1 ,! evil eye1 p4 #cfh74 ,among ! girdles 9 ! possession ( ,h5ry ,,iv#aaf "o is g>ni%$ ) heads ( /ags & small pe>ls1 & ano!r ) o/ri* plumes & little gold5 bells4 ,o!rs1 mo/ly ( /uff1 are g>ni%$ ) v>i\s fl[]s1 mo/ly roses1 or ) ivy leaves1 & ! majority are hung ) little bells4 ,9 addition to su* enri*m5ts1 :i* includ$ also coats-(-arms1 girdles bore inscriptions1 engrav$ on ! buckle-plate1 or =m$ ( lett]s sewn ^u ! b&4 ,^! latt] 7 (t5 ( an amatory or ( a sup]/iti\s "*2 =1 l o!r articles ( m$ival jewell]y1 ! girdle1 on acc\nt ( ! /ones1 etc41 set ^u x1 0 frequ5tly consid]$ end[$ ) talismanic prop]ties4 ,*auc] 9 8 adaptation ( ! old] ,roman de la ,rose describes ! ri* jewell$ girdle1 worn by "o ( ! emblematical *>act]s 9 ! ,g>d5 ( ,love4 ,x 0 set ) /ones evid5tly valu$ = _! my/ic prop]ties4 #aaf ,inv5tories ( ! ,ex*equ]1 ,,iii1 p4 #ccg4 ,ri*esse a girdle _h ^u1 ,! bokell ( x 0 ( a /on1 ,( v]tue grete1 & mokell ( might4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 ,! mordaunt wr\ght 9 noble wyse1 ,0 ( a /one full preci\s1 ,t 0 s f9e & v]tu\s1 ,t :ole a man x c\? make ,( palasey & ( to!ake4 ,atta*$ directly to ! girdle or susp5d$ f x by a hook or *a9 0 a purse or p\* call$ ei!r a gipcire1 aulmonire1 or esc>celle1 :i* 0 made ( velvet1 silk1 or /amp$ lea!r4 ,! gipcire 7also writt5 gypcyre7 is m5tion$ mo/ frequ5tly 9 e>ly docum5ts1 :]e x is (t5 describ$ z be+ enri*$ ) embroid]y1 & set ) pe>ls & preci\s /ones4 ,l ! aulmonire & esc>celle1 x 0 worn f ! ?irte5? to ! sixte5? c5tury hung f a loop at ! "r side ( ! girdle4 ,! heads or clasps ( ! f9e/ purses 7 ( beautiful workman%ip1 ( silv]1 bronze1 or iron1 damasc5$1 or exquisitely *isell$4 ,= ord9>y use ^! heads--kn[n z gipcire beams--z well z ! m\nts or frames ( ! purses1 7 made ( brass or latt52 & judg+ f ! numb] t has be5 f\nd & pres]v$1 9 ! ,guildhall ,museum1 = in/ance1 _! use mu/ h be5 v g5]al 9 m$ival times4 ,illu/ration3 ,luck5boo? broo* ( silv] 7,nat4 ,mus4 ( ,antiquities1 ,ed9burgh74 ,,r5aissance ,,jewell]y ,,*apt] ,,xx ,,italy1 ,,fifte5? ,,c5tury ,! hi/ory ( ,r5aissance jewell]y 9 g5]al may be approa*$ by review+ ! condition ( ,italian jewell]y 9 ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,9 ! =ego+ outl9e ( ,european jewell]y to ! end ( ! fifte5? c5tury--:i* has s]v$ z an approximate date = ! t]m9ation ( ! m$ival epo*--practically no ref]5ce has be5 made to ,italy4 ,"o ne$ only exam9e ! g5]al /yle ( ,italian pa9t+1 ar*itecture1 & sculpture ( ! ,quattroc5to1 to see h[ f> ap>t ! art ( ,italy /&s f t ( ! re/ ( ,europe4 ,italian jewell]y c]ta9ly m]its ! great reputation x has always possess$4 ,nor is ?is surpris+1 consid]+ ! prom95t "p play$ by ! goldsmi?s 9 ! r5aissance ( arti/ic ta/e--by ^! craftsm5 :o1 9 ! highe/ s5se arti/s1 7 ! fir/ to break ! fett]s ( tradition1 & yield to ^? impulses t s\ght a wid] field = ! gratification ( _! creative in/9ct4 ,h5ce ! hi/ory ( ! jewell]'s art 9 ,italy at ! p]iod ( ! ,quattroc5to l>gely resolves itself into ! biographies ( ^? ma/] sculptors & pa9t]s1 :o work$ fir/ z goldsmi?s & jewell]s1 & ?r\gh\t _! c>e]s rema9$ ev] m9dful ( _! orig9al trade4 ,v5ice1 :i* 9 ! fifte5? & sixte5? c5turies 0 ! weal?ie/ city & ! pr9cipal port 9 ,europe1 ?\gh rivall$ 9 ! =m] c5tury by ,bruges & by ,antw]p 9 ! latt]1 enc\rag$ ! use ( luxuri\s jewell]y1 z did ! great cities ( ! nor?4 ,b ,flor5ce und\bt$ly took ! lead z an arti/ic c5tre1 judg+ alone by ! arti/s %e produc$4 ,! pa9t+s ( ! ,v5etian s*ool 7! "w ( ,crivelli1 = in/ance71 & ^? ( ! s*ools ( ,tuscany1 etc41 reveal ! exquisite beauty ( ecclesia/ical jewell]y1 & ( ! ornam5ts ) :i* m51 no less ?an wom51 lov$ to deck _! p]sons4 ,ne>ly e pa9t] possess$ an insight into ! my/]ies ( ! goldsmi?'s craft1 & repres5t$ 8 subject1 :atev] x might be1 ) c>eful att5tion to its jewell$ accessories4 ,! great m]*ants ( opul5t & arti/ic cities1 su* z ,si5a1 ,milan1 & o!rs1 besides ,v5ice & ,flor5ce1 delight$ 9 ri* jewels2 & ! ma/]s ( ! s*ools ( pa9t+ :i* _h _! c5tres 9 ^! t[ns h pres]v$ 9 gl[+ pigm5t a fai?ful record ( ^! delicate works ( art1 on :i* ! em95t jewell]s ( ! day lavi%$ _! skill & +5uity4 ,! great sup]iority & beauty ( ! p]sonal ornam5ts reveal$ to u 9 ?is mann] mu/ fir/ ( all be ascrib$ to t awak5+ to ! full joy ( life t 0 s *>act]i/ic a feature ( ! ,r5aissance4 ,! rapture ( spr+ ran hot 9 m5's ve9s4 ,life 0 an un9t]rupt$ succession ( revelry & gaiety1 amid spl5d\r ( col\r+ & glitt] ( gold4 ,! goldsmi? em]ges f ! subord9ate /ate he occupi$ 9 ! m$ival guild1 & atta9s fame z a free arti/1 ^: duty 0 to m9i/] p]sonally to ! luxuri\s ta/es ( ^? :o play$ a "p 9 ! gorge\s pageant ( ! new epo*4 ,! goldsmi?s includ$ among _! ranks great ma/] craftsm51 ^: p]fection ( te*nical skill seem$ to f9d satisfaction only 9 ov]com+ ! greate/ problems t _! art c\ld (f]4 ,vas>i tells ( ! v close connection & almo/ con/ant int]c\rse t exi/$ betwe5 ! goldsmi?s & ! pa9t]s4 ,inde$1 ne>ly e arti/1 be=e apply+ himself to pa9t+1 ar*itecture1 or sculpture1 began ) ! /udy ( ! goldsmi?'s craft1 & pass$ ! ye>s ( 8 appr5tice%ip 9 ! te*nical details ( an indu/ry t !n suppli$ ! /ricte/ me?od ( design4#aag #aag ,symonds 7,j4 ,a471 ,r5aissance 9 ,italy--,! ,f9e ,arts1 p4 #ia4 ,! names ( sev]al arti/s ( ! ,r5aissance h be5 h&$ d[n :o are specially record$ z hav+ work$ at jewell]y4 ,"o ( ! e>lie/ ( ^? :o began _! c>e] 9 ! goldsmi?'s work%ops is ,ghib]ti 7b4 #acgh71 :o ?r\gh\t life rema9$ fai?ful to t species ( "w4 ,8 jewell]y is specially extoll$ by ,vas>i4 ,foll[+ ^u ,ghib]ti 7 two great jewell]s1 ,tommaso 7commonly call$ ,maso7 di ,f9igu]ra & ,antonio ,pollaiuolo2 ! =m] fam\s = 8 nielli1 ! latt] = 8 enamel-"w ^u relief4 ,pollaiuolo's love = jewel-=ms 9 8 pa9t+s 7execut$ toge!r ) 8 bro!r ,pi]o7 is se5 n only 9 ! ,annunciation at ,b]l91 b 9 ! gr\p ( ,,ss4 ,eu/ace1 ,james1 & ,v9c5t 9 ! ,uffizi1 & ! portrait ( ,simonetta ,vespucci at ,*antilly4 ,born 9 #adce1 a few ye>s aft] ,pollaiuolo1 ,&rea del ,v]roc*io resembl$ 9 ! peculi> v]satility ( 8 g5ius1 o!rs ( ^! typical arti/s ( ! ,middle or ,high ,r5aissance--! ,epo* ( ! ,goldsmi? x has be5 t]m$4 ,a jewell] ^: influ5ce 9 8 own day 0 great]1 & ^: fame almo/ equall$ t ( ,cell9i1 0 ,ambrogio ,foppa1 call$ ,c>adosso1 :o 0 born ab\t #addf at ,milan4 ,he work$ fir/ 9 ! s]vice ( ,ludovico ,s=za1 & aft]w>ds at ,rome1 :]e he di$ z late z ! ye> #aecj4 ,he seems to h be5 skill$ 9 e bran* ( ! goldsmi?'s art1 & especially excell$ 9 mak+ little m$allions ( gold1 enri*$ ) figures 9 high relief & cov]$ ) enamels1 :i* 7 worn z enseignes 9 ! hat or hair4 ,8 "w 9 ?is direction is highly extoll$ by ,cell9i1 & 8 skill 9 enamell+ specially m5tion$ by ,vas>i4 ,among ! arti/s ( ! end ( ! fifte5? c5tury :o1 aft] be+ goldsmi?s & jewell]s1 became celebrat$ z pa9t]s mu/ be m5tion$ ,botticelli 7#addd-aeaj71 ,dom5ico del ,ghirl&aio 7#addi-adid71 & ,francia 7#adej-aeag74 ,ghirl&aio is commonly ref]r$ to z a mak] ( ! jewell$ coronals 7ghirl&e71 popul> ) ! unm>ri$ & newly w$d$ ladies ( ,flor5ce4 ,x is probable t he did produce ?is class ( "w 9 e>ly life2 b 8 "n seems to h be5 borne by sev]al memb]s ( 8 family1 = 9 ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies a goldsmi? 0 (t5 famili>ly t]m$ ,ghirl&aio1 z "o ( 8 *ief occupations 0 ! manufacture ( ! ri* head-ornam5ts !n s mu* 9 vogue4 ,illu/ration3 ,p5dant worn by "o ( ,! ,?ree ,graces 9 ,botticelli's ,primav]a4 ,?\gh ,ghirl&aio does n fill 8 pictures ) da9ty details l ! intricate sett+s :i* ,botticelli devis$ = ! neck-p5dants ( ! ,graces 9 8 ,primav]a1 yet he inv>iably pays c>eful reg>d to ! repres5tation ( jewell$ accessories4 ,su* may be se5 9 ! well-kn[n portrait ( ,giovanna ,tornabuoni 7#adhh71 belong+ to ,mr4 ,pi]pont ,morgan 7=m]ly 9 ! ,kann ,collection74 ,%e has two jewels3 "o1 worn on h] brea/1 is =m$ ( a ruby 9 claw sett+ ) a small b]yl above1 & hung ) ?ree p5d5t pe>ls2 ! o!r1 specially introduc$ into ! picture & ly+ beside h] 9 a recess1 is compos$ ( a clu/] ( /ones--a ruby surr\nd$ by two pe>ls & ?ree b]yls--beautifully set1 & surm\nt$ by a w+$ dragon ) a sapphire ov] its head4 ,re/+ ^u a table 9 ! =egr\nd ( ano!r picture--a curi\s panel 9 ! possession ( ,mr4 ,george ,salt+--repres5t+ ,co/anza de' ,m$ici1 are sev]al p9s1 ?ree r+s on a roll ( p>*m5t1 & a p5dant hung ) ?ree pe>ls & set ) a l>ge & a small sapphire4 ,9 ! ,pitti ,gall]y is a portrait1 n by ,dom5ico1 b by 8 son ,ridolfo ,ghirl&aio1 :i* may be "h allud$ to ow+ to ! special int]e/ ( its subject4 ,! portrait is t ( a jewell] hold+ 9 8 h& & gaz+ int5tly at :at is presumably "o ( 8 own creations--a ri*ly enamell$ jewel fa%ion$ 9 ! =m ( a pelican 9 its piety4 ,illu/ration3 ,jewel1 9 ,ghirl&aio's portrait ( ,giovanna ,tornabuoni4 ,conc]n+ ! jewell]y ( ! great goldsmi? ( ,bologna1 ,francesco ,raibol9i1 call$ ,francia1 a consid]able am\nt ( in=mation has be5 pres]v$4 ,born 9 #adej1 he pass$ ! be/ "p ( 8 life z a goldsmi?1 & n till he 0 upw>ds ( =ty did he ab&on ! goldsmi?'s art = t ( ! pa9t]4#aah ,"o ( ,francia's f9e/ pa9t+s is ! ,felic9i alt>-piece 9 ! ,bologna ,gall]y1 execut$ 9 #adhd by commission ( ,mess] ,b>tolomeo ,felic9i = ! *ur* ( ,s4 ,m>ia della ,mis]icordia 9 t city4 ,among ! _m spl5did gifts ?is fam\s *ur* _h receiv$ 0 a jewel :i* ! records say 0 set by ,francia himself4 ,its beauty 0 held 9 su* e/eem1 t by desire ( ! *apt] ! arti/ introduc$ x into 8 picture1 :]e x c be se5 hang+ ov] ! head ( ! ,madonna4 ,its c5tre is occupi$ by a f9e ame?y/1 & is bord]$ by deep blood-crimson enamel1 ) pe>ls at ! angles4 ,s c>efully is e detail ( ?is jewel pa9t$1 t a mod]n goldsmi? has f\nd no difficulty 9 copy+ x ) absolute exactness#aai 7,pl4 ,,xxv1 #a74 #aah ,williamson 7,g4 ,c471 ,francia1 pp4 #b1 #c1 #ba1 #ch4 #aai ,= a photograph ( ?is jewel1 & = ! in=mation respect+ x & ! o!r works ( ?is arti/1 ,i am indebt$ to ! k9dness ( ,dr4 ,williamson4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxv ,,fifte5?-,,c5tury ,,p5dants1 ,,etc4 7,,italian ,,& ,,flemi%7 ,! la/ ( ! great jewell]s ( ! ,quattroc5to 0 ,mi*elagnolo di ,viviano1 :o work$ at ,flor5ce "u ! patronage ( ,lor5zo & ,giuliano de' ,m$ici4 ,he 0 ! e>lie/ in/ructor ( ! greate/ goldsmi? & jewell] ( ! late ,r5aissance1 ,b5v5uto ,cell9i1 9 ^: ,treatise & ,life he is spok5 ( ) ! highe/ praise4 ,f actual examples we obta9 b slight in=mation ( ! ,italian ornam5ts ( ! fifte5? c5tury2 b t !re is a di/9ct alt]ation 9 ! /yle ( jewell]y betwe5 ! ,quattroc5to & ! ,c9quec5to1 ! pictures ( ^! great arti/ic p]iods (f] abundant pro(s4 ,?is diff]5ce is p>ticul>ly noticeable 9 ornam5ts = ! head4 ,dur+ ! fifte5? c5tury we f9d ! =ehead height5$1 & ! space ?us obta9$ emphasis$ by a s+le jewel plac$ at ! top ( ! br[4 ,?is =m ( ornam5t is admirably %[n 9 ,pi]o della ,francesca's ,nativity 9 ! ,national ,gall]y1 & p>ticul>ly 9 8 ,madonna & ,*ild1 ) sa9ts & angels1 & ) ! donor1 ,f$]igo ( ,montefeltro1 ,duke ( ,urb9o1 9 ! ,br]a1 ,milan4 ,! p>ts ( ^! two pictures mo/ *>act]i/ic ( ! arti/ are ! figures ( ! angels1 :o we> jewels execut$ ) extraord9>y brilliancy--compositions ( pe>ls 9 delicate goldwork enri*$ ) blue enamel4 ,preci\s /ones & jewels 7 (t5 sewn1 at regul> int]vals1 all r\nd ! b& ( ribbon or galloon t encircl$ ! head1 z se5 9 a portrait 9 ! ,ambrosiana1 ,milan1 ascrib$ to ,ambrogio da ,pr$is1 & consid]$ to be t ( ,beatrice d' ,e/e2 b x is m usual to f9d 9 ! c5tre ( ! br[ an isolat$ jewel1 held by a n>r[ ribbon or silk5 cord1 knott$ at ! back ( ! head--z 9 ,c>oto's portrait ( ! ,du*ess ,elizabe? ,gonzaga 9 ! ,uffizi1 :o we>s on ! =ehead a jewell$ scorpion1 emblem ( logic4 ,?is head-ornam5t is kn[n z ! f]ronnire2 & ! orig9 ( its title is some:at peculi>4 ,!re is 9 ! ,l\vre an attractive & greatly admir$ portrait ( a lady1 ) h] hair held 9 place by black cord support+ a diamond 9 ! middle ( ! =ehead4 ,= _m ye>s ! portrait 0 entitl$ ,la ,belle ,f]ronnire1 hav+ be5 errone\sly consid]$ to be t ( ! blacksmi?'s wife 7f]ronnire7 ^: beauty en?rall$ ,francis ,i 9 8 decl9+ ye>s4 ,x is n[ g5]ally held to be a portrait ( ,lucrezia ,crivelli1 mi/ress ( ,ludovico ,moro1 ,duke ( ,milan4 ,! "n ( ! pa9t] is a matt] ( dispute1 ?\gh ! "w is /ill ascrib$1 z x has long be51 to ,leon>do da ,v9ci4 ,at ! beg9n+ ( ! n9ete5? c5tury1 :5 ! ,romantic movem5t 0 at its height1 a simil> ornam5t 0 reviv$1 & receiv$ its pres5t "n "u a misconception ( ! subject ( ! picture4 ,9 ! sixte5? c5tury ?is simple ornam5t is ab&on$1 & x 0 ! pa9t]'s task to depict magnific5t coiffures l ^? ( ,v]onese's ladies1 spr9kl$ ) jewels & entw9$ ) ropes ( pe>ls4 ,z reg>ds ! ornam5ts = ! neck1 ! *anges ( fa%ion 9 ! two p]iods & ! arti/ic mode ( express+ ! fa%ion dem&$ a diff]5t /yle ( jewell]y4 ,! sl5d] neck :i* is display$ 9 ! portraits ( ! e>li] p]iod requir$ light] ornam5ts ?an did ! massive =ms ( ! lat]4 ,! arti/ no long] trifl$ ) s+le gems1 hang+ on a ?read1 b pa9t$ a solid *a91 & ! light1 close-fitt+ necklace becomes p5d5t & heavy4#abj ,! di/9ct ref9em5t exhibit$ 9 ,italy 9 ! fifte5? & e>ly sixte5? c5turies did n dem& a great pr(usion or v>iety ( jewell]y4 ,z ! p5d5t ornam5t = ! neck-*a91 a simple jewel =m$ by "o /one 9 ! c5tre & small] /ones or f\r pe>ls ar\nd seems 9 mo/ cases to h be5 suffici5t4 ,circul> p5dants ( niello-"w surr\nd$ by silv]-gilt b&s ( cord$ ornam5t 7 mu* 9 use1 & a small numb]1 dat+ f ab\t #adfj to #aecj1 h surviv$4 ,!y sometimes be> a religi\s subject 7,pl4 ,,xix1 #d74 ,b n infrequ5tly ! head ( a lady is repres5t$ 9 pr(ile1 g5]ally ) a fl[] "u h] nose2 & x is possible t ^! 7 worn by m5 z a pl$ge ( affection f _! lady-love4 ,f+] r+s ) some:at simil> designs 7 also worn 7,pl4 ,,xxiii1 #af74 #abj ,wlffl9 7,h471 ,! art ( ! ,italian ,r5aissance1 p4 #bcd4 ,beyond a small numb] ( objects ( ?is description1 v few examples ( ,italian ,quattroc5to jewell]y h escap$ ! crucible4 ,! *ange ( ta/e ev5 betwe5 ! e>ly & ! full ,r5aissance 0 suffici5t to cause _! de/ruction4 ,among surviv+ jewels ( ?is c5tury is a v beautiful gold & enamel p5dant 9 ! collection ( ,mr4 ,pi]pont ,morgan4 ,x is circul> 9 =m1 & 0 probably int5d$ z a reliqu>y4 ,^u ! front is an ,annunciation 9 high relief4 ,! g>m5t ( ! ,virg9 is enri*$ ) r$ & blue1 & t ( ! angel ) r$ & :ite enamel2 ! *equ]$ base be+ ( transluc5t gre54 ,ar\nd is a bord] ( leaves & fl[]s enamell$ r$ & :ite4 ,! op5-"w back consi/s ( a c5tral rosette1 surr\nd$ by int]lac+ curves1 & edg$ ) a delicate wrea? 7,pl4 ,,xxv1 #b74 ,x rema9s to draw att5tion1 by means ( a beautiful repres5tation ( jewell]y 9 pa9t+1 to an example ( ! /yle ( broo* worn 9 ,flor5ce 9 ! latt] "p ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,! picture ref]r$ to is t ( ! ,virg9 & ,*ild 7,no4 #bif7 9 ! ,national ,gall]y4 ,x is app>5tly ! "w ( ,v]roc*io1 ,pollaiuolo1 or "o ( ! goldsmi?-pa9t]s ( :om we h spok52 = ! m9ute execution ( ! ornam5ts w\ld seem to d5ote ! h& ( an arti/ :o _h practis$ ! goldsmi?'s & jewell]'s art4 ,! broo* t s]ves z a fa/5+ = ! ,virg9's cloak--! same be+ repres5t$ on t ( "o ( ! angels--is ( mo/ *>m+ design4 ,x has 9 ! c5tre a table-cut ruby1 ar\nd :i* are set f\r pe>ls betwe5 ornam5ts 9 ! =m ( blackb]ries1 surr\nd$ by an out] bord] ( blackb]ry leaves4 ,s c>efully is ! jewel drawn t e detail c be> close inspection4 ,a peculi> po9t ( int]e/ is t ! pe>ls1 ea* ( :i* is set 9 a c\ple ( crut*-l clasps1 appe> to correspond to ! p]les pot5ces frequ5tly m5tion$ 9 ! contempor>y jewel inv5tories ( ! ,dukes ( ,burgundy4 ,illu/ration3 ,broo* worn by ! ,virg9 9 fifte5?-c5tury ,flor5t9e picture 7,no4 #bif1 ,national ,gall]y1 ,london74 ,"s measure ( comp5sation = ! un=tunate lack ( actual examples ( ,italian ,quattroc5to jewell]y is obta9$1 ap>t f _! repres5tation 9 pictures1 by ! v rem>kable use t 0 made ( jewel =ms = ! m>g9al decoration ( manuscripts4 ,su* enri*m5ts ( ! bord]s ( missals1 etc41 by means ( pa9t$ jewel ornam5ts1 w\ld seem to be b ! direct outcome ( ! sy/em :]eby mo/ ( ! pa9t]s1 sculptors1 ar*itects1 & no less em95t m9iaturi/s receiv$ _! fir/ in/ruction 9 art 9 ! work%ops ( ! goldsmi?s4 ,x is c]ta9 f _! quality t ! jewels repres5t$ 9 manuscripts1 g5]ally 9 _! natural size1 are ! "w ( arti/s well acqua9t$ ) ! jewell]'s art1 ^: eyes 7 fur!r impress$ by ! embroid]$ edg+s ( ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts enri*$ ) jewel ornam5ts & sewn ) pe>ls & preci\s /ones4 ,9 pa9t+ ) correspond+ luxury ! bord] decorations ( *ur* missals1 ! m9iaturi/s h obvi\sly n drawn on _! imag9ation1 or con/ruct$ jewel =ms 9 a m]e haphaz>d mann]4 ,! individual pieces1 (t5 complete jewels1 are j su* z might at ! "t h be5 f\nd on ! %elves ( "s goldsmi?'s work%op4 ,among ! mo/ skilful ( su* reproductions ( jewels are ^? 9 ! celebrat$ *oir books ( ! ca!dral ( ,si5a1 p>ticul>ly ! pages pa9t$ by ,lib]ale di ,giacomo da ,v]ona1 :o work$ at ,si5a f ! ye> #adff4 ,an exam9ation ( ^! illum9ations reveals ,lib]ale z an arti/ ?or\ghly conv]sant ) ! jewell]'s craft3 s t 8 "w1 toge!r ) t ( 8 foll[]s1 su* z ! ,flor5t9e ,giovanni di ,giuliano ,bocc>di1 ! ,dom9ican ,fra ,eu/a*io1 ,litti di ,filippo ,corbizi1 ,monte di ,giovanni1 ,antonio di ,girolamo1 ! fam\s ,attavante1 & ! v>i\s m9iaturi/s ( ,k+ ,ma?ias ,corv9us ( ,hung>y1 ap>t f its *>m+ execution1 con/itutes a v]itable /oreh\se ( in=mation respect+ ! ornam5ts ( ! p]iod4 ,p>ticul>ly f9e examples ( jewell$ & enamell$ decorations are also conta9$ 9 *oir books 9 ! ca!dral ( ,flor5ce1 missals 9 ! ,b>b]9i ,palace1 ,rome1 a ,bible ( ,ma?ias ,corv9us 9 ! ,vatican ,libr>y1 sev]al books 9 ! ,br]a at ,milan1 & ! f9e ,glock5don missal 7circa #aedj7 9 ! ,t[n ,libr>y at ,nuremb]g4 ,m important p]haps ?an all is ! ,grimani ,brevi>y1 n[ 9 ! ,libr>y ( ,/4 ,m>k's1 ,v5ice4 ,! ornam5tation ( ?is fam\s "w1 ! product ( a ,flemi% arti/ ( ! f9al ye>s ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 displays a nor!rn naturalism fav\rable to ! /rik+ repres5tation ( jewel =ms1 & s]ves to illu/rate ! close & active relation%ip !n exi/+ betwe5 ! ,flemi% & ,italian goldsmi?s4#aba #aba ,! :ole ( ?is magnific5t "w has be5 reproduc$ by ,sij?(f1 ( ,leyd51 "u ! direction ( ,scato de ,vries & ,dr4 ,s4 ,morpurgo4 ,illu/ration3 ,a fifte5?-c5tury jewell]4 ,f ,ortus ,sanitatis 7,/rasburg1 ab\t #adig74 ,,*apt] ,,xxi ,,sixte5?-,,c5tury ,,jewell]y 7,,g5]al7 ,,italy1 ,,sixte5? ,,c5tury ,great o/5tation & ext]nal spl5d\r 7 ! *ief features ( ! ,r5aissance4 ,s1 if ! jewell]y ( ?is "t appe>s to u m magnific5t ?an t ( any o!r1 ?is sup]iority is b an indirect result ( ! int]m$iate causes :i* f9d a place 9 all t is includ$ "u ! t]m ,r5aissance4 ,9 enum]at+ c]ta9 *>act]i/ics t di/+ui% sixte5?-c5tury jewell]y f t ( o!r epo*s1 ! enorm\s quantity us$ may fir/ ( all be not$4 ,a g5]al increase 9 weal? _h tak5 place1 b 9 ! comp>ative r>ity ( opportunity = inve/m5ts1 x 0 /ill cu/om>y to keep gold & preci\s /ones secret$1#abb or1 z 0 m g5]ally done1 make !m into ornam5ts ( small compass & easily conv]tible into h>d ca%4 #abb ,?is t5d5cy is z common z ev] 9 ! ,ea/1 p>ticul>ly among high-class natives ( ,india1 on acc\nt ( ! prevail+ belief t ! only safe way to inve/ money is to pur*ase preci\s /ones & simil> articles ( intr9sic or /]l+ value4 7,see ,n9ete5? ,c5tury1 ,,lviii1 p4 #bij1 #aije1 ,! orig9 ( money f ornam5t47 ,c\pl+ ?is ) ! magnific5t /yle ( liv+ dur+ ! ,r5aissance1 we ne$ feel less surprise at ! extraord9>y abundance ( jewell]y :i* we read ( 9 contempor>y *ronicles1 & f9d repres5t$ 9 ! utmo/ v>iety on ! portraits ( ! p]iod4 ,m5 ( solid reputation & s]i\s disposition seem1 equally ) wom51 to h fall5 victims to ! reign+ passion = jewell]y4 ,if we are at fir/ incl9$ to wond] at ! numb] ( ,c9quec5to jewels t h surviv$1 we c m readily und]/& t !y repres5t ! m]e/ fraction ( :at =m]ly exi/$1 :5 we take into consid]ation all ! risks ( de/ruction su* fragile & preci\s objects h und]gone--objects by _! nature ! v fir/ to disappe>4 ,monet>y pressure caus$ by w>1 ! division ( prop]ty1 & _m o!r ev5ts 7 fraught ) dang] to objects 9 ! preci\s metals4 ,*ange ( ta/e1 almo/ z rapid z t 9 dress1 :i* has caus$ ! la/ fa%ion b "o to be ! lea/ ( all desir$1 necessitat$ ! repeat$ refa%ion+ ( jewell]y4 ,not)/&+ _! p]fection1 ! exquisite productions ( ! sixte5? c5tury 7 unable to resi/ ! fatal influ5ce ( fa%ion1 & 7 l>gely brok5 up t[>ds ! t]m9ation ( ! sev5te5? c5tury1 :5 brilliant enamels & arti/ically wr\ght gold 7 less 9 reque/1 & ! preci\s metals became entirely subs]vi5t to ! /ones1 = :i* !y act$ simply z sett+s4 ,on ! o!r h&1 _! small size1 :i* has r5d]$ !m easy to conceal1 acc\nts = ! pres]vation ( "s examples1 :ile m]e *ance1 or p]haps an hi/orical association1 (t-times solely traditional1 has sav$ o!rs f de/ruction4 ,! f9e/ productions ( ! artific]s ( antiquity transc5d 9 ab/ract beauty ( design ev]y?+1 p]haps1 t has s9ce be5 produc$4 ,^? ( ! m$ival craftsm5 possess a *>m & beauty impossible to d5y1 & a peculi> navet & +5u\sness ( _! own1 to be look$ = 9 va9 else:]e4 ,x mu/ be ackn[l$g$1 h[ev]1 t ! jewels ( ! ,r5aissance1 ! receptacle ( e v>iety ( adornm5t by way ( preci\s /ones1 pe>ls1 & enamels t ! goldsmi? c\ld devise 9 ord] to enri* !m1 are 9 _! own mann] incomp>able4 ,x may be t "s err s f> on ! side ( ov]-elaboration t !y lose ! balance & dignity ( h>moni\s design1 b ! majority possess qualities r>ely f\nd 9 comb9ation save at ?is rem>kable p]iod--a ri*ness ( =m1 boldness ( conception1 & extraord9>y ref9em5t ( te*nique4 ,!re is no species ( te*nical "w1 :e!r x 0 a case ( hamm]+1 *as+1 or ca/+1 or1 above all1 enamell+1 t 0 n !n br\ght to p]fection4 ,b ! spl5d\rs ( ! ,r5aissance mu/ n bl9d u to ! ef=ts ( ! prec$+ age2 = ?or\gh ?\gh ! *ange 0 f ! /yle ( ,go?ic art1 ! jewell]s ( ! ,r5aissance 7 deeply indebt$ to ! m$ival traditions :i* !y _h by _! side to aid !m 9 develop+ _! arti/ic conceptions4 ,ano!r noticeable po9t ) reg>d to ! jewell]y ( ?is p]iod is its a/oni%+ v>iety4 ,its decl9e1 & r$uction to a monoton\s repetition ( design1 co9cides ) ! disappe>ance ( ^? arti/s :o possess$ ! univ]sality ( a man l ,cell9i1 & ) ! division ( lab\r *>act]i/ic ( mod]n art & indu/ry4 ,9 addition to ! enorm\s quantity us$1 a di/9ctive feature ( ,r5aissance ornam5ts is ! pref]5ce %[n = col\r4 ,! plac+ toge!r ( bright-col\r$ gems ) delicately work$ gold inv>iably enri*$ ) poly*rome enamels is ! fundam5tal motive ( ! jewell]y ( ! p]iod4 ,s admirable 0 ! craftsman's ta/e t ea* jewel =ms 9 itself a s*eme p]fect 9 design & col\r1 & ! rubies1 em]alds1 & sapphires introduc$ = ! sake ( _! col\r values1 s]ve ! composition z a :ole )\t ov]:elm+ x2 :ile ! diamond1 :i* compris$ almo/ ! sole mat]ial ( ! jewell]y ( lat] times1 0 us$ only = purposes ( contra/4 ,x _c be said t preci\s /ones _h entirely =feit$ _! m$ival reputation at ! p]iod ( ! revival2 b z jewell]y 0 beg9n+ to assume g5]ally ! "* ( m]e ornam5t1 ! /ones :i* enri*$ x 7 naturally *os5 r ) an eye to _! decorative qualities ?an = any fanci$ virtues !y might be consid]$ to possess4 ,"o ( ! *>ms ( ?is old jewell]y lies 9 ! sett+ ( its /ones1 :i* are mo/ly table-cut1 & fix$ 9 squ>e pyramidal collets4 ,! usual process ( sett+ 0 to rub ! upp] edges ( ! clos$ & box-l collet ov] ! sett+ edge ( ! /one1 & occasionally to lay ov] ?is an additional ornam5t 9 imitation ( claws4 ,?is mann] ( beat+ up or press+ ! edges ( ! collet ov] ! facet$ sides ( ! /one is extremely pleas+1 = ! /one1 ) its col\r ?r[n up by a foil or paillon1 h>monises admirably ) ! some:at irregul> frame ( gold t surr\nds x4 ,! art ( enamell+1 especially :]e figures are repres5t$ 9 full relief1 atta9s ! highe/ po9t ( p]fection4 ,ev5 :5 enamels cov] ! v>i\s p>ts ( jewels 9 a wondr\s h>mony ( col\r1 ! arti/s ( ! p]iod contriv$ ) extraord9>y tact to leave small portions 9 gold3 ! hair ( ! figures1 manes ( horses1 arm\r1 weapons--glitt]+ po9ts t enhance ! beauty ( ! :ole4 ,transluc5t & opaque enamels are f\nd side by side employ$ 9 diff]5t modes ) a/\nd+ assurance4 ,ext5sive use 0 made ( opaque :ite enamel1 always by way ( contra/2 a fav\rite device be+ to enri* ) x ! edges ( t5drils 9 ! =m ( m9ute beads1 ea* no l>g] ?an a p9's head4 ,x is ! desire = h>mony & beauty ( execution1 r ?an = display ( weal?1 t *>act]ises ! be/ productions ( ! ,r5aissance1 ^: true value lies n 9 _! intr9sic1 b 9 _! real arti/ic wor?4 ,! :ole ( e jewel1 back z well z front1 is f9i%$ & enamell$ ) ! same exquisite c>e4 ,:at little mat]ial value ^! jewels possess$ :5 _! =m & design 0 de/roy$ & _! beautiful devices oblit]at$ is well illu/rat$ by ,brantme's /ory ( ! jewels ( ! ,c\ntess ( ,*teaubri&4 ,?is lady _h be5 supplant$ 9 ! affections ( ,francis ,i by ano!r--! future ,du*ess ( ,e/ampes--:o p]suad$ ! ,k+ to claim all ! f9e jewels he _h be/[$ on 8 =m] mi/ress4 ,! value ( ^! lay *iefly 9 _! beautiful designs & devices1 s on receiv+ ! dem&1 %e melt$ !m all d[n1 & return$ !m to him conv]t$ into gold5 +ots4 ,! spl5did love ( life :i* f9ds expression 9 e production ( ,r5aissance art ex]cises a p]vad+ influ5ce ov] its jewell]y1 & det]m9es ! subjects to be repres5t$4 ,all ! l>g] objects1 & inde$ e object :i* is n ( a purely decorative patt]n1 is giv5 to ! depict+ ( a subject4 ,?r\gh\t ! f9e/ p]iod ( jewell]y1 goldsmi?'s "w 0 closely associat$ ) sculpture2 & ! human figure1 or figures ( animals ei!r real or imag9>y1 wr\ght 9 relief or execut$ 9 ! r\nd1 f9d a place on almo/ e jewell$ composition4 ,! subjects1 l>gely *os5 f among ! new circle ( ideas op5$ up by ! lit]ature ( ! ,r5aissance1 reveal wide k ( classical my?ology1 romance1 & poetic leg5ds1 z well z rem>kable adaptive g5ius4 ,nor are subjects f ! ,old & ,new ,te/am5ts exclud$2 ?\gh fanciful gr\ps--9 "o case a repres5tation ( "s !ological virtue1 & 9 ano!r "s sacr$ allegory--are m popul>4 ,! symbolical figures ( ! ,middle ,ages1 z ! unicorn & ! pelican 9 h] piety1 ) sea mon/]s & fanta/ic m5 & bea/s1 are ( frequ5t occurr5ce4 ,subjects su* z ^!1 & _m o!rs sugge/$ by ! f]tile m9d ( ! ,r5aissance jewell] & ! arti/ :o drew 8 designs1 are s num]\s t space w\ld fail 7 "o to attempt to enum]ate ev5 a ti! ( ^? met ) on jewels ( ! ,c9quec5to4 ,not)/&+ its subjects1 we f9d 9 ! jewell]y ( ! ,r5aissance1 beyond :at tradition _h pres]v$1 no direct influ5ce result+ f ! /udy ( ! ornam5ts ( ! anci5ts1 ?\gh ! awak5$ int]e/ ( ,italy 9 ! antique _c b h be5 accompani$ by "s acqua9tance ) ! productions ( h] e>ly goldsmi?s4 ,!re appe>s1 h[ev]1 to h be5 no attempt to base ! jewels ( ! p]iod on ! =ms ( anci5t ornam5ts1 to imitate ! bead$ "w ( ! ,etruscans or ! goldwork ( anci5t ,greece or ,rome4 ,yet ,r5aissance design ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 ) its arabesques & scrollwork 7be/ repres5t$ by ,raphael's fam\s arabesques 9 ! ,loggia ( ! ,vatican7 seems to h be5 9 ! ma9 inspir$ by antique designs1 su* z ! frescoes discov]$ at ,rome 9 #aejf1 9 ! ,ba?s ( ,petus--! s-call$ grottos1 f :i* 0 d]iv$1 z ,cell9i expla9s1 ! t]m grotesque4 ,! newly develop$ design1 a comb9ation ( figures1 masks1 fl[]s1 fruits1 & v>i\s o!r details1 applicable z x 0 to e bran* ( art1 0 peculi>ly adapt$ to jewell]y1 & 0 quickly seiz$ ^u by ! jewell]s1 :o employ$ x = ornam5ts ( a purely decorative =mation1 or = ! framework or backgr\nds ( ! exquisite figur$ compositions !n s mu* 9 vogue4 ,! real difficulty t confronts "o 9 deal+ ) ! jewell]y ( ! sixte5? c5tury lies n 9 ! inability to obta9 ! necess>y mat]ial examples1 b 9 express+ a def9ite op9ion z to _! nationality & orig92 & ?is difficulty ! be/ in=m$ & mo/ exp]i5c$ connoisseurs are ! fir/ to confess4 ,! utmo/1 !re=e1 t "o c hope to d1 )\t attempt+ 9 e case to arrive at accurate conclusions1 is to indicate1 z f> z possible1 su* means z may be ( assi/ance 9 ascrib+ a nationality1 n to all1 b to at lea/ ! majority ( ,r5aissance ornam5ts4 ,,italy1 ,,sixte5? ,,c5tury ,italian jewell]y ( ! sixte5? c5tury pres5ts :at is probably "o ( ! mo/ difficult problems 9 ! :ole hi/ory ( ! art4 ,9 ! fifte5? c5tury ! almo/ complete abs5ce ( examples necessitates rec\rse ma9ly to pictures2 b ,italian pictures ( ! sixte5? c5tury are ( comp>atively small assi/ance1 f ! fact t ,italian pa9t]s ( t p]iod mo/ly neglect$ ! preciosity ( /yle & delicacy ( p]ception t /udi$ ! gleam & %imm] on jewels & su*-l objects4 ,! bright bl5d+ ( beautiful col\rs _h to give way to /rong %ad[s & skilful effects ( p]spective4 ,!re exi/s1 on ! o!r h&1 an abundance ( mat]ial 9 ! =m ( actual specim5s ( ,c9quec5to jewell]y1 b ow+ to ! f>-rea*+ influ5ce ( ! ,r5aissance /yle ( ornam5t a decision z to _! precise prov5ance is a matt] ( ! utmo/ difficulty4 ,! great popul>ity ( "o ( ! c5tral figures ( ! late ,r5aissance--,b5v5uto ,cell9i 7#aejj-aegb7--;has = _m ye>s caus$ ! f9e/ examples to be attribut$ to him or to 8 s*ool1 (t5 ) complete disreg>d ( _! design1 :i* c be trac$ 9 _m cases to ano!r s\rce4 ,x is unnecess>y to give a biographical acc\nt ( ! fam\s ,flor5t9e goldsmi?1 = 8 life may be/ be /udi$ 9 8 own memoirs4 ,m to ! pres5t purpose is x to attempt to e/imate ! real position t ,cell9i %\ld occupy1 especially ) reg>d to su* examples ( jewell]y z h come d[n to ! pres5t day4 ,^u ! "q ( ,cell9i ! arti/ic _w has long be5 divid$ into two camps4 ,! majority ( ^? :o h previ\sly dealt ) ! subject h consid]$ x suffici5t to sum up ! :ole hi/ory ( ! jewell]'s art ( ! sixte5? c5tury "u ! "n ( ?is "o arti/1 & to attribute ev]y?+ important to him4 ,! lively & s+ul>ly attractive n>rative ( 8 own life & adv5tures conta9s su* c&id glorification ( himself & 8 "w1 t ! temptation is /rong to foll[ ! majority1 &1 unm9dful ( 8 contempor>ies1 to associate ) him1 z he himself has done1 ! f9e/ jewell]y ( ! :ole ,r5aissance4 ,eugne ,plon1 = example1 ,cell9i's *ief expon5t1 9 8 magnific5t "w1 ,b5v5uto ,cell9i1 ,orfvre1 ,mdailleur1 ,sculpteur 7#ahhc71 ?\gh em95tly j1 & on ! :ole fair 9 8 attributions1 _c disguise an evid5t desire to ascribe to ! ,flor5t9e goldsmi?1 or at any rate to 8 s*ool1 n only sev]al jewels :i* might conceivably be associat$ ) ,cell9i1 b also sev]al o!rs ( m d\btful orig94 ,among ^! is ! important gr\p ( jewels 9 ! ,ro?s*ild ,collection 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 kn[n z ! ,waddesdon ,beque/1 ! real orig9 ( all ( :i* is held by ^? be/ entitl$ to judge to be inconte/ably ,g]man4 ,cell9i's critics1 on ! o!r h&1 sceptical1 & 9 ! ma9 dispassionate1 h plac$ him "u a m se>*+ light1 & despoil$ him ( ! halo ) :i* 8 own memoirs h encircl$ him4 ,he rema9s1 h[ev]1 an excell5t & _m-sid$ arti/1 ?or\ghly v]s$ 9 all ! te*nicalities ( 8 craft1 & "o :o )\t d\bt /rongly influ5c$ 8 contempor>ies4 ,admirable goldsmi? & jewell] z he c]ta9ly 01 he is entitl$ to ! highe/ di/9ction1 b n s mu* on acc\nt ( ! ref]5ces 9 8 ,vita & ,trattati to 8 own productions1 z = 8 lucid treatm5t ( te*nical que/ions4 ,arti/s1 says ,mr4 ,symonds1 :o aspire to immortality %\ld %un ! preci\s metals4 ,despite all t has be5 said respect+ su* jewels z ! ,l$a & ! ,swan at ,vi5na 7,pl4 ,,xxix1 #e71 ! ,*>iot ( ,apollo at ,*antilly1 & ! m\nt+s ( ! two cameos1 ! ,f\r ,cs>s & ! ,c5taur & ! ,bac*ic ,g5ii 9 ! ,biblio?que ,nationale at ,p>is1 :i* h1 ) "s degree ( likelihood1 be5 attribut$ to ,cell9i1 ! only q au!nticat$ example ( 8 "w z a goldsmi? is ! fam\s gold5 salt-cell> at ,vi5na4 ,?is object :5 look$ at f ! goldsmi?'s po9t ( view1 9 ! matt] ( f95ess ( workman%ip & skill 9 execution1 is se5 to possess p>ticul> *>act]i/ics :i* %\ld be suffici5t to prev5t ! attribution to ,cell9i ( o!r contempor>y "w1 creat$ by jewell]s :o cle>ly drew _! inspiration f entirely diff]5t s\rces4 ,9 endeav\r+ to affix a nationality to exi/+ jewels1 ! only really s]viceable l&m>ks are ^? furni%$ by ! collections ( engrav$ designs by ,g]man & ,fr5* ma/]s ( ornam5t2 & :5 ^! are comp>$ ) ! contempor>y "w j spok5 (1 ! common orig9 ( ne>ly all becomes at once evid5t4 ,be>+ 9 m9d ! skill & fame ( ! ,italian goldsmi?s1 n only ( ,cell9i1 b ( 8 contempor>ies1 su* z ,girolamo del ,prato1 ,giovanni da ,f]5zuola1 ,luca ,agnolo1 & ,pi]o1 ,giovanni1 & ,romalo del ,tovaloccio1 ! reason :y ! va/ majority ( extant jewels %\ld foll[ ,g]man designs is difficult to und]/&4 ,an au?ority no less reliable ?an ,sir ,a4 ,w4 ,franks has express$ an op9ion t ! designs ( ,dr]1 ,aldegrev]1 & o!r ,g]man arti/s 7 ext5sively us$ 9 ,italy4#abc ,italian goldsmi?s did n produce any su* examples ( engrav$ ornam5t = jewell]y z did _! confrres 9 ,g]many1 ,france1 & ,fl&]s2 b ! curr5t k we possess ( ! art ( ! p]iod r5d]s x at lea/ unlikely t ! individuality :i* is ! key-note ( all ! productions ( ! ,italian ,r5aissance w\ld h c\nt5anc$ !re1 9 ,italy1 ! use ( extrane\s ready-made designs4 ,c]ta9ly arti/s ( ! /amp ( ,cell9i w\ld n h us$ !m4 ,"o is =c$ nev]!less to ackn[l$ge ! possibility ( m9or ,italian craftsm5 hav+ execut$ jewels f ,g]man engrav+s4 ,! int]national "* visible on s _m art objects ( ! "t mu/ be attribut$ 9 no small degree to ! circulation ( su* designs 9 almo/ all ! work%ops ( ,europe4 #abc ,proc4 ,soc4 ,antiq41 ,,xiv1 p4 #ahj4 ,a reason = ! _m difficulties t arise 9 connection ) ?is p>ticul> "q seems to lie 9 ! fact t = causes unexpla9$ ! jewell]y ( ! fir/ half ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 :e!r ,italian1 ,g]man1 or ( o!r nationality1 has almo/ all vani%$1 & t examples met ) at ! pres5t day belong *iefly to ! second half ( t c5tury4 ,:ile ackn[l$g+ ! exi/5ce ( a fair numb] ( jewels ^: au?or%ip _c be o!rwise ?an ,italian1 & )\t d5y+ ! possibility ( ! survival ( examples ( jewell]y ev5 f ! h& ( ,cell9i himself1 a prote/ mu/ be rais$ aga9/ ! practice1 hi!rto s common1 ( describ+ e jewel ( ! sixte5? c5tury z ,italian1 & ( c\pl+ e high-class object ( ?is description ) ! magic "n ( ,cell9i4 ,,*apt] ,,xxii ,,! ,,sixte5? ,,c5tury ,,g]many1 ,,! ,,l[ ,,c\ntries1 ,,hung>y ,?\gh introduc$ e>ly into ,g]many1 ! /yle ( ! ,italian ,r5aissance made its way b sl[ly 9 a c\ntry :]e ! ideas ( ! ,middle ,ages long held possession ( p's m9ds4 ,x 0 n till aft] ab\t #aeae1 :5 ! spread ( books & engrav+s quick5$ its g5]al acceptance1 t ! new movem5t ga9$ gr\nd !re4 ,! ,g]man goldsmi?s1 :5 once !y _h ca/ aside ! ,go?ic /yle1 seiz$ ^u ,r5aissance ornam5t ) su* avidity t by ! second half ( ! sixte5? c5tury !y _h acquir$ a widespread fame1 & w\ld seem by _! ri*ness ( inv5tion to h completely ca/ into ! %ade ! ,italian jewell]s ( _! own day4 ,f an e>ly p]iod !re _h be5 a /eady fl[ ( arti/s leav+ ,g]many to /udy 9 ! great ,italian ateli]s4 ,! pr9cipal ( ^!1 & "o :o influ5c$ 8 c\ntrym5 m ?an any1 0 ,alb]t ,dr]1 :o %[$ 9 ! engrav+s produc$ aft] 8 j\rney to ,italy a p]fect appreh5sion ( ,italian design4 ,z x travell$ nor?w>d1 ,r5aissance ornam5t increas$ 9 fre$om f classic rule1 & 9 ! h&s ( ! lat] draughtsm5 & engrav]s :o execut$ patt]ns = ! goldsmi?s1 x lo/ mu* ( its orig9al purity1 & assum$ a mix$ /yle1 compos$ ( /rap & ribbon "w1 c>t\*es1 & intricate complications ( ar*itectural memb]s2 :ile ! indu/ri\s affectation ( ! jewell]s ( ! day = manipulative difficulties l$ to ! production ( ornam5ts ^: effect is sometimes m>r$ by ov]-elaboration ( detail4 ,9 addition to o!r circum/ances1 we mu/ rememb] t ! great] weal? ( ! middle classes 0 a p[]ful factor 9 ! increas+ production ( jewell]y4 ,! goldsmi?s consequ5tly occupi$ an important position2 & t !re 0 a great dem& = _! s]vices is prov$ by ! fact t patt]ns = jewell]y execut$ on _! behalf by ! =emo/ engrav]s ( ! day =m no unimportant "p ( ! engrav$ "w produc$ by ^! arti/s4 ,9 ,g]many1 z else:]e1 success 9 trade result$ 9 a dem& = objects ( luxury4 ,! city ( ,augsburg1 situat$ on a great trade r\te1 e>ly atta9$ to a height ( comm]cial prosp]ity1 :ile ,muni*1 & especially ,nuremb]g1 n f> di/ant1 fl\ri%$ to an equal degree4 ,"u ! /imulat+ patronage ( weal?y families1 su* z ! ,fugg] family ( ,augsburg1 articles ( jewell]y ( e k9d 7 produc$ 9 abundance1 & ?r\gh\t ! sixte5? c5tury f\nd _! way ov] ne>ly ! :ole ( ,europe4 ,9 addition to ^! ?ree cities1 ,prague dur+ ! la/ few ye>s ( ! sixte5? & ! comm5cem5t ( ! sev5te5? c5tury 0 likewise a c5tre = ! manufacture ( an imm5se am\nt ( enamell$ jewell]y4 ,?is indu/ry1 c>ri$ on ) consid]able activity ow+ to ! influ5ce ( ! ,ar*duke ,f]d9& ( ,tirol 7#aebj-aeie71 bro!r ( ,maximilian ,,ii1 0 mo/ fl\ri%+ 9 ! "t ( ! ,emp]or ,rudolph ,,ii 7#aeeb-afab71 ,k+ ( ,hung>y & ,bohemia1 "u ^: patronage sev]al rem>kable specim5s ( ,g]man goldsmi?'s "w n[ at ,vi5na 7 execut$1 su* z ! ,au/rian ,imp]ial ,cr[n1 made 9 ! ye> #afjb4 ,! epo* ( ab\t =ty ye>s t t]m9at$ at ! dea? ( ,rudolph ,,ii 9 #afab1 & kn[n z ! ,rudolph9e p]iod1 witness$ ! production1 ma9ly 9 ,s\!rn ,g]many1 ( ! great] "p ( ! enamell$ jewell]y n[ extant4 ,r5aissance jewell]y1 z we speak ( x1 may be said to h almo/ ceas$ aft] t p]iod1 at a date :i* co9cid$ ) ! outbreak ( ! ,?irty ,ye>s' ,w> 9 ,g]many1 & ! ,civil ,w> 9 ,engl&4 ,its proximity to ,italy r5d]$ ,augsburg m quickly subject to ! influ5ce ( ! ,italian /yle ?an ,nuremb]g & ,muni*1 ?\gh by ! middle ( ! sixte5? c5tury ! :ole ( ,s\!rn ,g]many foll[$ ! /yle ( decoration ( ! ,italian ma/]s s ?or\ghly1 t x is difficult to assign a l>ge proportion ( ! ornam5ts ( ! p]iod to ei!r nation1 s9ce ! di/+ui%+ feature ( ! hall-m>k f9ds no place on jewell]y1 z on o!r objects 9 ! preci\s metals4 ,x is true t ! extraord9>y developm5t ( c>t\*e & /rap ornam5t on ,g]man "w1 z on t ( ! ,ne!rl&s1 s]ves 9 _m cases to di/+ui% x f ! ,italian1 yet !re is suffici5t simil>ity 9 details ( ornam5tation1 9 masks & figures1 z well z 9 ! me?od ( enamel-"w & ! sett+ ( gems1 to acc\nt = ! div]g5ce ( op9ion t exi/s z to ! prov5ance ( all ! jewels ( ! p]iod4 ,su* is ! glam\r t surr\nds ,italian art1 t x has be5 ! cu/om to assign e f9e jewel ( ! ,r5aissance to ,italy2 b a c>eful exam9ation ( exi/+ examples has left u conv9c$ t by f> ! great] numb] ( !m are n ,italian1 b ( ,g]man orig91 & belong to ! second half ( ! sixte5? c5tury & ! e>ly ye>s ( ! sev5te5?4 ,portraits1 alone1 by su* ,g]man pa9t]s z ,wolgemut1 ,/rigel1 ,burgkmair1 ,altdorf]1 ,hans ,baldung ,gri51 ,lucas ,crana*1 & ,b>?olomu ,bruyn1 %[ t by ! v comm5cem5t ( ! sixte5? c5tury ! weal? ( ! m]*ant pr9ces ( ,s\!rn ,g]many result$ 9 an ev5 great] display ( jewell]y ?an 0 indulg$ 9 by ! ,italians4 ,v>i\s o!r consid]ations contribute to ?is conviction4 ,fir/ & =emo/ is ! "q ( ! designs f :i* ! jewell]s drew _! ideas4 ,a c]ta9 numb] ( orig9al draw+s = jewell]y by ,g]man arti/s exi/4 ,( ^! !re are examples ( ! "w ( ! two greate/1 namely ,dr] 7#adga-aebh7 & ,holbe9 7#adig-aedc74 ,to ,holbe9's draw+s1 :i* 7 execut$ 9 ,engl&1 detail$ ref]5ce is made 9 a lat] *apt]4 ,9 8 designs = jewell]y1 z 9 all else1 ,dr]1 ! son ( a goldsmi? & desc5d$ f "o on 8 "m's side1 ma9ta9s a high /&>d ( excell5ce4 ,8 draw+s 7z catalogu$ by ,lippmann7 include ! foll[+3 7#a7 ,9 ! ,kun/halle1 ,brem54 ,?ree sket*es = p5d5t :i/les1 :]e ! s\nd-produc+ "p is =m$ ( a ball ) a hole 9 x1 into :i* ! air is c>ri$ by a pipe4 ,9 two cases ! ball is held 9 ! m\? ( a lion1 & 9 ! ?ird 9 ! beak ( a cock4 ,! animals /& ea* on a curv$ pipe1 & h a r+ above = susp5sion 7,l4 #abd74 7#b7 ,9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,two sket*es = r+-%ap$ p5dants--app>5tly :i/les 7,pl4 ,,xxvi1 #a74 ,9 bo? cases is air bl[n f a m\?piece half-way r\nd ! r+ into a ball held 9 an animal's m\? 7,l4 #beb74 7#c7 ,9 ! possession ( ,h]r von ,f$]1 ,k>lsruhe4 ,f\r designs = broo*es & clasps1 ri*ly ornam5t$ 7,l4 #dcc-dce1 & #dcg74 ,two ( ^! sket*es 7,l4 #dcc & #dcg7 & sev]al o!rs 7! :]eab\ts ( ! orig9als ( :i* is n kn[n7 7 et*$ by ,w5zel ,holl> 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury1 & are enum]at$ 9 ,p>!y's catalogue ( ,holl>'s works4 ,! et*+s aft] ! two kn[n orig9als are numb]$ #befe & #befa4 ,! o!r jewels et*$ by ,holl> f ,dr]'s designs are ! foll[+3 7#a7 ,a p5dant 9 ! =m ( ,/4 ,george & ! ,dragon )9 a laurel wrea?1 ) a r+ above & bel[ 7,p4 #afe74 7#b7 ,a girdle-end =m$ ( two dolph9s ) a *a9 atta*$ 7,p4 #beei74 7#c7 ,a buckle & buckle-plate--! buckle =m$ ( two dolph9s1 ! plate ornam5t$ ) two cornucopi 7,p4 #befj74 7#d7 ,a r\nd sc5t-case or pom&] 7,p4 #befg74 ,9 addition are miscellane\s designs = ornam5ts1 errone\sly consid]$ to be patt]ns = embroid]y 7,p4 #befb-c-d & #beff74 ,a *>m+ repres5tation ( a p5d5t jewel is se5 9 ,dr]'s woodcut ( ! ,emp]or ,maximilian's ,triumphal ,ar* susp5d$ f ! ,imp]ial ,cr[n held by ! figure ( ,g5ius4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxvi ,,designs ,,= ,,jewell]y ,,by ,d,,r] ,,& ,,holbe9 ,foll[+ ,dr] !re appe>$ a numb] ( goldsmi?s :o1 ) ! spread ( ! new /yle ov] ,europe1 7 prep>$ to p]=m ! task ( remodell+ p]sonal ornam5ts 9 accordance ) ! ta/e ( ! day4 ,! mo/ +5i\s ( !m1 toge!r ) "s arti/s ( di/9ction1 engrav$ ) great f]tility ( imag9ation1 = ^? :o 7 n capable ( design1 patt]ns = goldsmi?'s "w & jewell]y4 ,a l>ge dem& 0 made on ! productive faculties ( ^! engrav]s1 :o includ$ among _! ranks n only ! be/ arti/s1 t]m$ f ! usual small size ( _! productions ! little ma/]s1 b _m o!r design]s ( goldsmi?'s ornam5t2 & f _! works1 multipli$ by means ( engrav+1 ! num]\s craftsm5 :o work$ 9 gold1 enamel1 & preci\s /ones1 drew _! subjects & ideas4 ,on ! "q ( ! production ( jewell]y f su* engrav$ designs1 x is int]e/+ to note ! sev]al po9ts ( simil>ity t exi/ 9 ! proc$ure ( ! ornam5ti/s ( ! sixte5? c5tury & t ( ! ,engli% furniture-design]s ( ! eighte5?4 ,9 bo? cases ! orig9al produc]s ( ! designs 7 practical craftsm51 :o c]ta9ly execut$ objects aft] _! publi%$ patt]ns2 :ile ! patt]ns !mselves 7 employ$ ext5sively z models4 ,9 bo? cases1 too1 x is q evid5t t 9 a numb] ( in/ances fanciful designs 7 produc$ :i* 7 nev] c>ri$ out4 ,h5ce "o c readily und]/& ! difficulties t are enc\nt]$ 9 attempt+ to det]m9e ! prov5ance ( su* small & portable objects z p]sonal jewels1 ! engrav$ designs = :i* 7 9 l mann] widely di/ribut$4 ,b !re is ! /rong probability1 aft] all1 t ! great] numb] ( jewels1 aft] engrav$ designs ( ,g]man orig91 7 execut$ 91 or n v f> di/ant f ! locality 9 :i* ! designs orig9at$4 ,if designs are consid]$ insuffici5t = ! id5tification ( jewels1 !re exi/s a means mu* m c]ta91 & "o :i* %\ld surely prev5t ! attribution to ,italians ( jewels unque/ionably ! "w ( ,g]man craftsm54 ,x may be rememb]$ t ,cell9i 9 8 ,trattati1 9 deal+ ) ! goldsmi?'s art1 advis$ jewell]s to pres]ve ca/+s 9 lead ( _! works 9 gold & silv]4 ,9 _m cases ,cell9i's recomm5dation has be5 lit]ally c>ri$ out1 & a consid]able numb] ( pro(s /ruck by ,g]man jewell]s ( details ( _! jewels h =tunately come d[n to u4 ,! ,bav>ian ,national ,museum at ,muni* conta9s a highly important collection ( ^! lead5 ca/s1 be+ a complete s]ies us$ by a family ( gold & silv] work]s 9 ,augsburg = upw>ds ( #bej ye>s 7f ab\t #aeej to #ahjj74 ,! jewell]s ( ,augsburg 7 among ! fir/ 9 ,europe1 & ^! models ( _! productions1 be>+ /rong traces ( ! influ5ce ( contempor>y ornam5ti/s1 correspond 9 _m details ) orig9al jewels dat+ f ^? times4 ,examples ( ^! lead models = jewell]y exi/ 9 o!r collections1 su* z ! ,hi/orical ,museum at ,basle4 ,( ! same mat]ial b ( inf9itely high] arti/ic importance1 are ! lead models by ! h& ( ,pet] ,fltn] ( ,nuremb]g4 ,9 addition to engrav$ designs1 ,fltn] execut$ models = goldsmi?s1 c>v$ 9 /one & boxwood4 ,f ^!--( :i* orig9al examples h surviv$--ca/s 7s-call$ plaquettes7 7 made 9 lead1 :i* 7 us$ z patt]ns = craftsm5 9 ! same mann] z engrav+s ( ornam5t4 ,fltn]'s models1 ?\gh issu$ ma9ly = work]s 9 gold & silv] plate1 7 employ$ also by ! jewell]s1 & ex]cis$ consid]able influ5ce on _! productions4 ,few engrav$ designs = jewell]y are prior 9 date to ! ye> #aeej1 ?\gh ne>ly all ! prom95t pa9t]-engrav]s delight$ 9 ex]cis+ _! inv5tive faculty 9 ?is direction4 ,"o or two plates ( p5dants by ,brosam]1 & a buckle & :i/le by ,aldegrev]1 repres5t almo/ ! sole engrav+s ( ! k9d be=e ,virgil ,solis--! fir/ to devise a m ambiti\s s]ies ( jewels4 ,among/ ! e>lie/ is ! ,kun/b*le9#abd or patt]n book = goldsmi?'s "w1 by ,hans ,brosam] 7ab\t #adhj-aeed74 ,^! woodcuts1 :i* are s+ul>ly attractive1 are ( a transitional "*1 ) traces ( ,go?ic design4 ,!y include two pages ( p5dants compos$ ( /ones betwe5 leafwork gr\p$ r\nd a c5tral ornam5t & hung ) pe>-%ap$ pe>ls4 ,"o p5dant consi/s ( a ni*e betwe5 pill>s--a simil> /yle ( ornam5t to t adopt$ by ,&r\et ,duc]ceau1 & ! fir/ assignable in/ance1 says ,h]r ,li*tw>k1#abe ( ! use ( ar*itecture 9 ,g]man jewell]y ( ?is "t1 ?\gh ?is same motive 0 frequ5tly repres5t$ lat] on by ,erasmus ,hornick & ,mignot4 ,?ree o!r p5dants are 9 ! =m ( :i/les = we>+ on ! neck-*a94 ,9 an engrav+ = a :i/le ( a simil> k9d by ,aldegrev] 7#aejb-aeeh71 ! l[] "p is =m$ ( a case conta9+ an e>-pick & a knife = ! f+]-nails4 ,except = ?is design 7:i* f9ds a place 9 ! backgr\nd ( 8 engrav+ ( ! pair ( fold+ pocket-spoons ( ! ye> #aeci71 ,aldegrev]'s only example ( jewell]y is ! rem>kable ,go?ic girdle-buckle ) its buckle-plate & tag 7dat$ #aecg74 ,! *>act]i/ic fig-leaf ornam5t ( ! e>ly ,g]man ,r5aissance is bett] repres5t$ "h ?an on any o!r engrav+ ( ! p]iod4 #abd ,reproduc$ by ,qu>it* 9 #ahig f a copy n[ 9 ! possession ( ,mr4 ,max ,ros5heim4 #abe ,li*tw>k 7,a471 ,d] ,ornam5t/i* d] deuts*5 ,frhr5aissance1 p4 #aaa4 ,m mod]n 9 /yle is ,ma?ias ,zundt 7#adih-aehf71 ^: compositions 7dat$ #aeea-aeed7 are c>ri$ out ) great f95ess4 ,zundt liv$ at ,nuremb]g1 8 great contempor>ies1 ,virgil ,solis & ,erasmus ,hornick be+ natives ( ! same city4 ,x 0 to ,virgil ,solis 7#aead-aefb71 "o ( ! mo/ skilful & prolific ( ! ,g]man ,kle9-,mei/]1 t ! jewell]s & o!r craftsm5 ( ! day ow$ _! f9e/ inspirations4 ,virgil ,solis's beautiful s]ies ( p5dants are execut$ ) great *>m & delicacy4 ,!y be> ! "* ( a transition f ! graceful foliage ( ! e>ly to ! full ,r5aissance1 ) its fanciful ar*itectural =ms1 its scroll ornam5t1 arabesques1 animals1 & grotesque human masks & figures 7,pl4 ,,xxvii1 #a1 #b74 ,erasmus ,hornick likewise ex]cis$ a pot5t influ5ce on ! jewell]y ( ! "t4 ,he engrav$ 9 #aefb a s]ies ( p5dants1 *a9s1 & o!r jewels ( ! mo/ delicate execution 7,pl4 ,,xxvii1 #d-f74 ,! p5dants 9 =m ( an ar*itectural ni*e ) ! subject plac$ 9 ! c5tre1 are ! prototype ( all ! jewels ( ?is k9d :i* we meet ) subsequ5tly 9 ! pr9ts ( ! ,flemi% engrav] ,colla]t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxvii ,,designs ,,= ,,jewell]y ,,by ,,solis1 ,,woeiriot1 ,,hornick1 ,,& ,,brosam] ,:ile _m important engrav+s 7 be+ issu$ = ! b5efit ( ! jewell]s ( ,nuremb]g1 a great quantity ( jewell]y 0 produc$ at ,muni* "u ! patronage ( ! ,dukes ( ,bav>ia4 ,duke ,alb]t ,v _h z c\rt pa9t] a skilful m9iaturi/1 ,hans ,mieli* 7#aeaf-aegc71 :om he employ$ to pa9t 9 ! =m ( an inv5tory exact copies 9 m9iature ( 8 jewels & ^? ( 8 wife1 ,anne ( ,au/ria1 pres]v$ 9 8 treasury4 ,9 addition to ^! draw+s1 n[ 9 ! ,royal ,libr>y at ,muni*1 are a numb] ( o!rs1 :i* came into ! possession ( ,dr4 von ,hefn]-,alt5eck1 & on 8 dea? 9 #aijd 7 pur*as$ = ! sum ( #b1ejj = ! ,bav>ian ,national ,museum4#abf ,?\gh ! majority ( ^! draw+s = jewell]y1 9 !mselves works ( extraord9>y beauty1 7 copies ( objects !n already 9 exi/5ce1 ! pres5ce ( jewels simil> to ,mieli*'s designs leads to ! supposition t ?is arti/ ex]cis$ a /rong influ5ce on ! jewell]s ( 8 day1 & t a numb] ( jewels 7 also execut$ at ! comm& ( ! ,duke f orig9al sket*es ( 84 ,none ( ! actual objects depict$ by ,mieli* h surviv$1 save a l>ge gold *a9 set ) pe>ls1 rubies1 & em]alds1 :i* corresponds1 p>ticul>ly 9 its ri* enamel-"w1 to "o ( ! draw+s lately add$ to ! ,national ,museum4 ,?is *a9 is kn[n z ! coll> ( ! ,ord] ( ,/4 ,george4 ,! size & quality ( its /ones & ! great beauty ( ! enamell$ sett+s r5d] x1 )\t d\bt1 ! f9e/ article ( its k9d 9 exi/5ce4 ,x is pres]v$ 9 ! ,royal ,treasury 7,s*atzkamm]7 at ,muni*1 toge!r ) a numb] ( o!r objects ( ! same type4 #abf ,mo/ ( ,mieli*'s works h be5 reproduc$ by ,hefn]-,alt5eck 9 8 ,deuts*e ,golds*mi$e-,w]ke des #aften ,jahrhund]ts4 ,! la/ decades ( ! sixte5? c5tury saw ! appe>ance ( a new species ( ornam5tal design1 ^: *ief advocate1 ,!odor de ,bry 7#aebh-aeih71 ( ,lige1 ) 8 sons ,johann ,!odor & ,johann ,israel1 settl$ 9 ,frank=t-on-!-,ma9 ab\t #aefj4 ,x is a ri* & v>i$ surface decoration1 (t5 ( :ite ^u a black gr\nd1 compos$ ( scroll ornam5t ri*ly set ) fl[]s1 fruit1 grotesques1 & figures ( animals1 ! :ole be+ *>m+ly design$1 & engrav$ ) great brilliancy ( t\*4 ,9 addition to 8 m fam\s knife-h&les1 de ,bry execut$ sev]al engrav+s = clasps1 buckles1 & metal atta*m5ts to girdles4 ,= ! c\nt]p>t ( ! arti/ic /yle ( de ,bry "o mu/ look to ! ,l[ ,c\ntries & p>ticul>ly to ! "w ( ! engrav] ,hans ,colla]t 7#aedj-afbb71 ( ,antw]p1 :o develop$ rem>kable f]tility 9 ! production ( patt]ns = jewell]y4 ,colla]t's designs require special att5tion1 because ( ! t5d5cy1 elaborat$ l>gely by him & o!r engrav]s ( ! s*ool ( ,antw]p1 t[>ds exub]ant c>t\*e ornam5ts ) a mixture ( extravagant & loosely arrang$ /rap-"w1 & /ud -or boss-"w4 ,?is /yle1 full ( grotesques & arabesques1 p]vad$ ! "w ( e craftsman ( ! day1 & dealt a f9al bl[ to any fur!r developm5t ( pure ,r5aissance ornam5t4 ,colla]t's *ief s]ies ( p5dants1 elev5 9 numb]1 publi%$ 9 #aeha "u ! title ,monilium bull>um inauriumque artificiosissim icones1 are probably ! be/ kn[n ( all designs = jewell]y ( ?is epo*4 ,"o ( ^! engrav+s1 9 p>ticul>1 has be5 sev]al times reproduc$4 ,x is a l>ge p5dant hung f a c>t\*e & surm\nt$ by a figure ( ,orpheus ) a lyre1 ) two seat$ female figures4 ,! re/ ( ! jewel is made up ( scroll ornam5ts & bracket-%ap$ t]m9al figures1 & is hung ) ?ree drop pe>ls4 ,?is p5dant is ( peculi> int]e/ 9 connection ) its be>+ on :at has already be5 said ) reg>d to ! attributions giv5 to ,c9quec5to jewell]y4 ,two /rik+ in/ances ( misappli$ attributions ( ?is k9d may be quot$4 ,9 "o#abg "w ! engrav+ 9 "q is describ$ z3 ,p5dant p> ,b5v5uto ,cell9i 7,muse de ,flor5ce72 & 9 ano!r#abh z3 ,gehnge 9 d] ,biblio?que nationale zu ,p>is na* se9em ,cell9i's ,model ge>beitet6 #abg ,jannettaz1 ,diamant et pi]res prcieuses1 p4 #dbc4 #abh ,bu*]1 ,ges*i*te d] te*nis*5 ,kn/e1 ,,ii1 p4 #cjg4 ,x has be5 usual--:ile ackn[l$g+ ! great influ5ce ( ^! engrav+s on ! jewell]y ( ! "t--to d\bt :e!r jewels exi/ :i* h be5 execut$ 9 exact imitation ( !m4 ,to %[ t su* designs 7 actually foll[$1 we may po9t to a jewel figur$ by ,h]r ,lu?m] 9 8 catalogue ( ,b>on ,k>l von ,ro?s*ild's collection at ,frank=t-on-!-,ma91 :i* foll[s 9 e detail ! p>ticul> engrav+ by ,colla]t j m5tion$ z hav+ be5 ascrib$ to ,cell9i4 ,colla]t's influ5ce 0 consid]able 9 8 day1 & 8 compositions circulat$ n only 9 ,fl&]s1 b also 9 ,g]many & o!r prom95t jewel-produc+ c5tres4 ,jewels are repeat$ly met )1 :i*1 ?\gh !y d n foll[ 9 e detail ,colla]t's publi%$ designs1 are obvi\sly inspir$ by !m4 ,a v notable example ( su* is a jewel1 to be ref]r$ to subsequ5tly 7p4 #bdg71 9 =m ( a gondola conta9+ figures ( ,antony & ,cleopatra1 :i* 0 sold by auction 9 ,london = a v l>ge sum a ye> or two ago4 ,) ,colla]t 7 sev]al m9or design]s ( jewell]y1 su* z ,abraham de ,bruyn 7#aech-;aft] #afjj71 among ^: engrav+s are sev5te5 models = p5dants & portions ( jewels 9 ! /yle ( ! admirable ,fr5* jewell]-engrav] ,eti5ne ,delaune4 ,o!r ,dut* & ,flemi% engrav]s ( ornam5t belong m to ! sev5te5? c5tury1 & w be dealt ) lat]4 ,at ! fur!/ corn] ( ,g]many f ,fl&]s 0 ! anci5t k+dom ( ,hung>y1 :]e jewell]y 0 employ$ 9 almo/ ,ori5tal pr(usion4 ,! native co/ume is luxuri\s ev5 at ! pres5t day1 & 9 old5 times ! nobility made a practice ( atta*+ to x a great "p ( _! =tunes 9 ! =m ( preci\s /ones1 :i*1 9 enamell$ sett+s ( button-%ape1 t]m$ bogl>s1 7 sewn on1 or 7 m\nt$ 9 aigrettes1 or set 9 girdles or dagg]-%ea?s4 ,indep5d5t jewels enri*$ ) enamel-"w 9 ! ,r5aissance ta/e 7 produc$1 too1 9 consid]able quantity4 ,f9e examples ( ! latt] are pres]v$ 9 ! museum at ,buda-,pe/h2 :ile to ! exhibition held !re 9 #ahhd ,c9quec5to jewell]y ( great beauty & weal? 0 l5t by noble ,hung>ian families4 ,all ^! display /rik+ simil>ity to ! jewels execut$ at ,augsburg1 ,prague1 & else:]e 9 ! latt] "p ( ! sixte5? & ! e>ly ye>s ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,9 addition to ^? :i* betray ! influ5ce ( =eign /yles1 !re are jewels ( native "w1 ^: surface is enri*$ ) ! s-call$ ,draht-,email4 ,?is filigree-enamel1 :i* 0 execut$ f ! fifte5? to ! sev5te5? c5tury 9 ,hung>y & ?r\gh\t ! valley ( ! ,danube1 is compos$ ( bright opaque col\rs fir$ betwe5 cloisons or p>titions compos$ ( twi/$ wire4 ,illu/ration3 ,design = a p5d5t :i/le by ,hans ,brosam]4 ,,*apt] ,,xxiii ,,! ,,sixte5? ,,c5tury ,,france--,,spa9 ,! campaigns ( ,*>les ,,viii & ,l\is ,,xii 9 ,italy1 & ! patronage ( ,italian arti/s by ,c>d9al d',amboise1 br\ght a k ( ,r5aissance art into ,france4 ,france 0 ! fir/ nation to adopt ! /yle ( ornam5t to :i* ,italy _h giv5 bir?1 & at ! v outset ( ! sixte5? c5tury ,italian influ5ce made itself felt4 ,f ! reign ( ,francis ,i to t ( ,*>les ,,ix1 ,fr5* jewell]y 0 closely modell$ on ! ,italian1 :ile _m ,italian jewell]s took up _! abode 9 ,france1 & among !m ,cell9i1 :o resid$ 9 ,p>is f #aedj to #aede4 ,n s9ce ! days ( ,*>les ,v _h ,france witness$ su* pr(usion ( jewell]y z 0 indulg$ 9 by ! spl5d\r-lov+ ,francis ,i :o exce$$ ev5 ,h5ry ,,viii & ,pope ,paul ,,iii--two o!r great collectors ( ! day--9 ga!r+ toge!r jewels & preci\s /ones4 ,we he> mu* ( ! jewell]y ( ! day f ,rabelais1 :o speaks ( ! ros>ies1 girdle-ornam5ts1 r+s1 gold *a9s1 jewell$ necklaces & ( ! v>i\s k9ds ( preci\s /ones worn bo? 9 articles ( jewell]y & scatt]$ 9 pr(usion ov] ! dress4 ,an incid5t ( consid]able int]e/ is record$ to h tak5 place 9 ! "t ( ,francis ,i 9 connection ) a suppos$ abuse ( enamel on ! "p ( ! jewell]s4 ,! k+'s att5tion 0 drawn to ! fact t :5 jewell]y enamell$ ) opaque enamels1 :i* 7 consid]$ to weigh heavi] ?an ! cle> ones1 came to be realis$1 ! enamel 0 s mu* pure loss4 ,s1 9 spite ( a prote/ by "s ( ! lead+ goldsmi?s1 :o decl>$ t ! prop] execution ( ! majority ( articles ( jewell]y 0 impossible )\t opaque enamel1 an ord9ance 0 pass$ 9 #aedj =bidd+ its use4 ,aft] ?ree ye>s1 h[ev]1 ! k+ rel5t$1 & aga9 p]mitt$ ! jewell]s ! full ex]cise ( ! res\rces ( _! art1 provid$ !re 0 no sup]flu\s excess 9 ! use ( enamel4 ,"u ! la/ ,valois k+s1 ,*>les ,,ix & ,h5ry ,,iii1 ! production ( jewell]y 9 ,france1 z else:]e1 0 great] ?an at almo/ any o!r p]iod4 ,vivid descriptions ( ! ri* jewell]y ( ?is "t are furni%$ by ! *ronicl] ,brantme4 ,actual articles ( ,fr5* ,r5aissance jewell]y are1 x mu/ be confess$1 ( great r>ity4 ,almo/ ! only extant specim5s are ! wond]ful m\nt$ cameos 9 ! ,cab9et des ,mdailles ( ! ,biblio?que ,nationale at ,p>is1 ! majority ( :i* are presumably ( ,fr5* orig94 ,f comp>ison ( ^! ) contempor>y designs1 ! di/+ui%+ features ( ! ,fr5* jewell]y ( ! "t appe> to be--a c>t\*e-%ap$ frame ) comp>atively unbrok5 outl9e1 enri*$ ) scroll ornam5t & occasionally ) human figures & grotesques1 a slight use ( op5-"w1 & ! g5]al employm5t ( a c5tral ornam5t4 ,l ! ,g]mans1 ! ,fr5* _h excell5t ma/]s1 :o engrav$ models = jewell]y ( great beauty ( design4 ,! foll[+ are ! *ief matres ornemani/es :o fl\ri%$ 9 ! sixte5? c5tury3--,jean ,duvet1 kn[n also z ! ,ma/] ( ! ,unicorn1 born at ,langres 9 #adhe & di$ ab\t #aefb1 0 goldsmi? to ,francis ,i & ,h5ry ,,ii4 ,8 designs = small objects ( p]sonal use 9 ! =m ( scrolls1 fl[]s1 & foliage1 int5d$ = execution 9 enamel1 are among ! e>lie/ engrav+s 9 taille-d\ce produc$ = ! purpose4 ,jacques ,&r\et ,duc]ceau 7ab\t #aeaj-;ab\t #aehe7 work$ *iefly at ,orleans4 ,8 num]\s engrav+s 9 ! =m ( c>t\*es ) roll$ & volut$ frames %[ ! type ( design ma9ly employ$ = p5dants4 ,8 actual models = jewell]y1 numb]+ upw>ds ( fifty1 comprise clasps & broo*es1 & _m p5dants1 includ+ e>r+s 7pp4 #bda & #bfi74 ,aft] ,&r\et ,duc]ceau1 ! mo/ fam\s jewell] ( ?is "t 0 ,eti5ne ,delaune1 call$ ,/ephanus 7#aeah-aeie74 ,he is said to h work$ "u ,cell9i dur+ ! latt]'s resid5ce 9 ,p>is4 ,9 #aegc he mov$ to ,/rasburg1 :]e ! great] "p ( 8 "w 0 produc$4 ,a little ma/] p> excell5ce1 he engrav$ ) extraord9>y delicacy a numb] ( exquisite designs = jewell]y4 ,two ( 8 engrav+s ( slightly diff]5t design1 bo? dat$ #aegf1 repres5t ! int]ior ( goldsmi?s' work%ops1 & are ( p>ticul> int]e/ 9 illu/rat+ ! practice ( ! goldsmi?'s art & ! equipm5t ( ! work%op at ?is p]iod4 ,designs = jewell]y are ! mo/ int]e/+ ( ! engrav+s ( ,r5 ,boyv9 7#aecj-aeih71 ( ,ang]s4 ,he appe>s to h be5 influ5c$ by ! ,italian arti/s ( ,fonta9ebleau1 & 8 plates ( jewel-ornam5t1 engrav$ ) great skill 9 ! /yle ( ,il ,rosso1 %[ consid]able +5uity & fancy 9 ! comb9ation ( facet$ /ones & l>ge pe>ls ) human & fanta/ic figures4 ,m influ5tial p]haps ?an any ( ! designs ( ! "t are ^? ( ,pi]re ,woeiriot ( ,lorra9e1 :o 0 born 9 #aecb & di$ aft] #aehi4 ,9 #aeee ,woeiriot settl$ at ,lyons1 :]e he produc$ a l>ge numb] ( engrav+s = jewell]y4 ,^!1 %[+ ! greate/ v>iety ( design1 include num]\s patt]ns = r+s1 a doz5 e>r+s1 & t5 p5d5t ornam5ts 7,pl4 ,,xxvii1 #c74 ,^! ma/]pieces ( engrav+ & composition 7 publi%$ at ,lyons 9 #aeee & #aefa4 ,spa9 occupies a peculi> place ) respect to its ,r5aissance jewell]y4 ,9 ! sixte5? c5tury ! ,spani% ,p59sula 0 p]haps ! ri*e/ "p ( ! civilis$ _w4 ,ev5 at a "t :5 univ]sal luxury 9 p]sonal ornam5ts reign$1 ,spa9 made itself an object ( note by its extraord9>y display 9 ?is direction4 ,! union "u ! same dom9ion ( ?ree ( ! mo/ p[]ful c\ntries ( ,europe co9cid5t ) ! newly develop$ weal? ( ,am]ica result$ 9 a desire among all classes = a m luxuri\s /yle ( liv+ & = m sumptu\s ornam5ts4 ,! natural in/9ct ( weal?y & cultur$ individuals to surr\nd !mselves ) ! *oice/ productions ( ! f9e arts l$ to ! importation ( ! be/ ( su* objects f o!r c\ntries & ( ! fir/ =eign craftsm5 ( ! day4 ,juan de ,arphe1 ! ,spani% ,cell9i1 himself ( ,g]man extraction1 devot$ mu* att5tion to ! naturalisation ( ,r5aissance =ms4 ,o!r jewell]s also rema9$ 9 s l>ge a measure dep5d5t on =eign influ5ce1 at fir/ ( ,italian types1 & !n ( ! designs ( ,fr5*1 ,g]man1 & ,flemi% engrav]s ( ornam5t1 t x is (t5 h>d to arrive at a decision z to ! precise prov5ance ( _! productions4 ,b j z o!r works ( art1 ! product ( diff]5t c\ntries1 are /amp$ ) c]ta9 indef9able *>act]i/ics1 :i* 9 g5]al circum/ances may at once be detect$1 s jewels ( ,spani% orig9 betray ! influ5ce ( national temp]am5t 9 _! composition & design4 ,! s]ies ( draw+s by ,b>celona jewell]s publi%$ by ,davilli] 9 8 ,re*]*es sur l',orfvr]ie en ,espagne1 be> suffici5t evid5ce ( ?is native _s4 ,nev]!less1 ! majority ( ! surviv+ examples ( ! ,r5aissance jewell]y ( ,spa9 approa* at times v ne> to ^? ( ,g]many4 ,& !re c be little d\bt t ! ,nuremb]g & ,augsburg jewels :i*1 z has be5 %[n1 7 9 vogue n only all ov] ,g]many1 b 9 ,france & ,engl& & ! ,l[ ,c\ntries1 7 import$ & imitat$1 z ,davilli] says1 by ! goldsmi?s ( ,spa94 ,! mo/ important ,spani% jewels ( ! sixte5? c5tury are 9 ! =m ( enamell$ p5dants4 ,( ^! ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum possesses a collection1 excell$ by t ( no o!r public museum1 :i* acquir$ at ! sale 9 #ahgj ( ! treasures ( ! sanctu>y ( ! ,virg5 del ,pil> at ,s>agossa4 ,a species ( p5dant :i* 9 ,spa9 above all places has always be5 popul> 0 ! reliqu>y4 ,x assum$ num]\s %apes2 & among ! _m k9ds ( adornm5t x receiv$ 7 small panels ( pa9t$ glass commonly kn[n z v]res glomiss4 ,?is s-call$ v]re glomis1 :i* _h be5 h&$ d[n f antiquity & 0 us$ 9 ! ,middle ,ages1 0 br\ght to high p]fection at ! ,r5aissance4 ,adopt$ f ,italy1 :]e x 0 also employ$ = jewell]y1 x met ) consid]able fav\r 9 ,spa9 9 ! sixte5? c5tury 7,pl4 ,,xliii1 #d74 ,! process employ$ 9 its production consi/$ 9 cov]+ ! "u side ( a plate ( glass or rock cry/al ) gold leaf4 ,on ?is 7 trac$ ! outl9es ( ! design int5d$ to be res]v$ 9 gold1 & ! rema9d] ( ! gold 0 !n remov$4 ,9 ! pa9t+ :i* foll[$1 ! f9e/ details1 ! high lights1 ! %ad[s & fle% t9ts 7 fir/ execut$4 ,!n came 9 successive applications1 transp>5t v>ni%es ( diff]5t col\rs & ?icknesses1 9 accordance ) ! value ( ! tones desir$4 ,small pieces ( silv] leaf 7 appli$ to c]ta9 p>ts to reflect ! light & height5 ! effect2 & ! :ole 0 f9ally back$ ) a %eet ( metal4#abi #abi ,la collection ,spitz]1 ,,iii1 p4 #ec4 ,v]re glomis appe>s to take its "n f "o ,glomy1 a ,fr5* craftsman ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 :o produc$ a special black & gold v>ni% :i* he appli$ to ! back ( glass4 ,9 a simil> way 8 c\ntrym5 ! ,m>t9s gave _! "n to ! v>ni% ( _! inv5tion4 ,v]re glomis1 a some:at unsatisfactory title1 :i* came fir/ into use 9 ! latt] "p ( ! c5tury1 & 0 wrongly appli$ to pa9t+s "u glass ( a simil> ord]1 has be5 reta9$ ev] s9ce4 ,a peculi> & *>act]i/ic species ( p5d5t ornam5t1 numb]s ( :i* 7 produc$ 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury *iefly at ,b>celona1 are c]ta9 badges worn by memb]s ( religi\s corporations4 ,!y are ( op5-work$ gilt brass enri*$ ) :ite1 black1 & blue opaque enamels fus$ into recesses /amp$ 9 ! surface ( ! metal4 ,^! badges1 :i* are ei!r triangul>1 oval1 squ>e1 or oblong 9 %ape1 are =m$ ( two p>ts--a frame surr\nd$ ) ray$ patt]ns1 & a c5tral portion ornam5t$ ) v>i\s designs 7,pl4 ,,liii1 #e74 ,among ! latt] designs are cr[n$ monograms ( ,*ri/ or ! ,virg91 ) emblems su* z palm leaves1 & ! device ( a nail & ! lett] ,s int]lac$--a rebus = ,esclavo4 ,fitt$ 9 ! back is usually a m9iature "u cry/al4 ,9 po9t ( te*nique ^! enamell$ badges (f] an int]e/+ comp>ison ) ! well-kn[n ,engli% enamels ( ! same date appli$ ma9ly to objects su* z c&le/icks & fire-dogs4 ,p5d5t badges ( ! same designs exi/ 9 gold4 ,! collection ( ,seor de ,osma at ,madrid conta9s sev]al examples4 ,to ! sev5te5? c5tury belong also ! *>act]i/ic lazos or b[-%ap$ jewels worn z brea/-ornam5ts1 made ( op5-"w gold set ) em]alds1 & occasionally ) o!r /ones 7,pl4 ,,liii1 #a74 ,( ! same /yle are r+s1 also set ) em]alds1 & p>ticul>ly long e>r+s1 :i* h always be5 popul> 9 ,spa94 ,! backs ( ^! jewels are engrav$ ) floral designs4 ,! great] "p ( ! ,spani% jewell]y ( ! "t is set ) em]alds1 :i* 7 acquir$ 9 quantities f ,p]u4 ,spa9 has always _h a great reputation = ^! /ones1 :i* :5 ( f9e quality are /ill allud$ to z old ,spani% em]alds4 ,em]alds are always subject to flaws & r>ely free f !m4 ,! em]alds set 9 ,spani% jewell]y1 ?\gh usually full ( fea!rs1 are nev]!less ( great decorative value4 ,fur!r ref]5ce w be made to ,spani% "w ( ! sev5te5? c5tury :5 ! jewels ( t p]iod are dealt )4 ,! e>li] ,hispano-,moresque jewell]y is ( consid]able r>ity4 ,x is (t5 enri*$ ) opaque enamel fir$ betwe5 cloisons =m$ ( twi/$ wire4 ,f ! union ( ,moori% & ,r5aissance =ms develop$ ! ,spani% peasant jewell]y1 usually fa%ion$ ( /\t silv] filigree p>cel-gilt4 ,illu/ration3 ,design = a p5dant by ,hans ,brosam]4 ,,*apt] ,,xxiv ,,engl&1 ,,sixte5? ,,c5tury 7,,h5ry ,,viii--,,elizabe?--,,m>y ,,/u>t7 ,) ! accession ( ,h5ry ,,viii a new p]iod op5s 9 ! hi/ory ( ! jewell]'s art4 ,! _s ( ! revival1 :i* _h previ\sly affect$ only ! ,c\rt1 began to spread rapidly ?r\gh\t ! community1 "u ! influ5ce ( ! example set by ! great jewell]s ( ,italy4 ,! ,k+ inh]it$ an enorm\s treasury1 & ! display ( jewell]y on 8 own p]son & on t ( 8 ,c\rt 0 prodigi\s4 ,we are indebt$ to ! ,v5etian ambassador1 ,giu/9ian1 = ! foll[+ graphic description ( ! ,k+'s p]sonal adornm5t a ye> or two aft] 8 accession-- ,he wore a cap ( crimson velvet1 9 ! ,fr5* fa%ion1 & ! brim 0 loop$ up all r\nd ) lacets & gold enamell$ tags4444 ,v close r\nd 8 neck he _h a gold coll>1 f :i* !re hung a r\gh-cut diamond1 ! size ( ! l>ge/ walnut ,i ev] saw1 & to ?is 0 susp5d$ a mo/ beautiful & v l>ge r\nd pe>l4 ,8 mantle 0 ( purple velvet l9$ ) :ite sat91 ! sleeves op51 ) a tra9 m ?an f\r ,v5etian y>ds long4 ,?is mantle 0 girt 9 front l a g[n1 ) a ?ick gold cord1 f :i* !re hung l>ge gold5 acorns l ^? susp5d$ f a c>d9al's hat2 ov] ?is mantle 0 a v h&some gold coll>1 ) a p5d5t ,/4 ,george entirely ( diamonds4 ,b5ea? ! mantle he wore a p\* ( clo? ( gold1 :i* cov]$ a dagg]2 & 8 f+]s 7 "o mass ( jewell$ r+s4#acj #acj ,brew] 7,j4 ,s471 ,h5ry ,,viii1 ,i1 p4 #aj4 ,_m a lively & detail$ picture has be5 left u by ! *ronicl] & lawy]1 ,edw>d ,hall1 ( ! equipage & adornm5t ( ,h5ry ,,viii on 8 coronation & at ! c\rt ent]ta9m5ts1 & p>ticul>ly ( ! fam\s meet+ ( ! ,clo? ( ,gold1 :]e1 9 _! insane desire to out%9e ea* o!r1 ! ,engli% & ,fr5* nobles ent]$ into b\ndless extravagance 9 dress1 & s load$ !mselves ) jewell]y1 t1 9 ! words ( ,du ,bellay1 !y c>ri$ ! price ( woodl&1 wat]-mill1 & pa/ure on _! backs4 ,_m are ! elaborate descriptions ( ent]ta9m5ts & pageants by ! *ronicl]s ,lel&1 ,hol9%$1 & ,/[e1 9 :i* ri* jewell]y figures2 b ,hall's ,*ronicle1 ! mo/ m9ute 9 its acc\nts ( contempor>y fa%ions1 teems ) ref]5ces to ,gold ,smi!'s woorke & to ! weal? ( preci\s /ones broid]$ on ! g>m5ts4 ,! passion = p]sonal ornam5ts ran su* riot t ev5 =eign critics inveigh$ aga9/ ,engli%m5 = _! extravagance4 ,?is love ( jewell]y 0 l>gely due to =eign fa%ions1 :i* hi!rto disc\nt5anc$1 7 gr[+ popul> at ,c\rt1 9 consequ5ce ( ! increas+ communication ) ! ,cont95t4 ,f ! comm5cem5t ( ,h5ry's reign m]*ants & craftsm5 f abroad sw>m$ 9 numb]s into ,london1 & ,hall1 :o %>$ ! *>act]i/ic ,engli% antipa?y to all ?+s =eign1 gives an in/ance ( an invasion by ^! ali5 artific]s4 ,x 0 on ! occasion ( a magnific5t embassy f ,france 9 #aeah 9 connection ) ! betro?al ( ! ,pr9cess ,m>y to ! ,dauph9 t !re came1 he says1 a great numb] ( rascals & p$l>s & jewell]s1 & br\ght ov] div]s m]*antize uncu/om$1 all "u ! color ( truss]y baggage ( ! ambassadors4 ,9 accordance ) ! sy/em ( 8 pr$ecessors 9 pursuit ( _! own p]sonal int]e/s1 ,h5ry ,,viii ext5d$ 8 protection to ! =eign]1 :ile ! example ( ! ,fr5* ,c\rt1 ! rivalry ) ,francis ,i1 & ! =eign proclivities ( ,wolsey & ,cromwell induc$ him to patronise ext5sively =eign jewell]s & m]*ants 9 preci\s /ones4 ,occasionally ,h5ry 0 a suff]] 9 8 transactions ) %>p ,italian deal]s2 & ,cell9i relates a /ory ( h[ a ,milanese jewell] c\nt]feit$ an em]ald s clev]ly t he manag$ to palm (f ! same = a g5u9e /one on ! sov]eign ( ^? bea/s ( ,engli%m51 z he else:]e t]ms !m1 = #ijjj gold5 scudi4 ,& all ?is happ5$1 because ! pur*as]--:o 0 no less a p]son ?an ! ,k+ ( ,engl&--put r m fai? 9 ! jewell] ?an he ought to h done4 ,! fraud 0 n f\nd out till sev]al ye>s aft]4 ,a consid]able numb] ( ! =eign craftsm5 patronis$ by ! ,k+ 7 ,italians2 b 9 jewell]y ! ,fr5* influ5ce seems to h pr$om9at$--judg+ by ! frequ5t m5tion ( jewels ( ,p>is "w1 & by ! fact t ! majority ( ! jewell]s m5tion$ 9 ! ,k+'s ,book ( ,paym5ts1#aca be> ,fr5* names4 ,among ^? ( =eign extraction ! foll[+ 7 ! mo/ prom95t3 ,rob]t ,amadas1 ,john ,cryspyn1 ,all>t ,pl\my]1 ,jehan ,lange1 ,cornelius ,hays1 ,bapti/ ,leman1 ,john ,cavalcant1 ,john ,bapti/a de ,consolav]a1 ,guillim ,honyson1 ,alex&] ( ,brussels1 ,john ( ,utre*t1 & ,john 7,hans7 ( ,antw]p4 ,! m5tion1 h[ev]1 ( su* names z ,john ,angell1 ,morgan ,f5wolf 7a ,wel%man71 ,john ,freeman1 ,john ,twiselton1 ,?omas ,exmewe1 ,nicolas ,worley1 ,john ,monday1 & ,william ,davy indicates ! ,engli% nationality ( sev]al ( ! royal jewell]s--?\gh x is well to rememb] ! common t5d5cy ( ! "t to ,anglicise =eign names4 #aca ,lett]s & ,pap]s ( ,h5ry ,,viii1 ,,ii1 p4 #adda1 etc42 ,,iii1 p4 #aecc1 etc4 ,?r\gh\t ! fir/ half ( 8 reign ,h5ry plac$ huge ord]s 9 ! h&s ( ^! craftsm51 b advanc+ ye>s & an exhau/$ treasury appe> to h some:at dim9i%$ 8 exp5diture on p]sonal ornam5ts4 ,"s int]e/+ correspond5ce betwe5 ! above-m5tion$ ,jehan ,lange1 a jewell] ( ,p>is1 & c]ta9 ( 8 native t[nsm5 has be5 pres]v$4#acb ,! ,k+1 he writes 9 #aecg1 ref]r+ to c]ta9 jewell$ g>m5ts he _h submitt$ to ,8 ,maje/y1 0 v glad to see su* ri*es4 ,he said he 0 too old to we> su* ?+s1 b he has (f]$ #djjj cr4 ,to ,all>t ,pl\my] he writes3 ,! ,k+ always makes good *e]1 b he has gr[n cold1 & we h n q sold ev]y?+2 = ! g5tlem5 h sp5t _! money 9 ! w>4 ,i f9d ! ,k+1 he says 9 ano!r place1 dis9cl9$ to buy1 = he has told me he has no m money1 & x has co/ him a great deal to make w>4 #acb ,lett]s & ,pap]s1 ,,xii1 ,no4 #dg4 ,9 spite ( ,lange's compla9ts1 x 0 only j be=e 8 dea? t ,h5ry ,,viii acquir$ a fam\s & magnific5t hi/orical jewel1 ! great p5dant ( ,*>les ! ,bold1 la/ ,duke ( ,burgundy4#acc ,9 its c5tre 0 set ! wond]ful diamond--a deep pyramid five-eigh?s ( an in* squ>e at ! base--believ$ to be ! fir/ on :i* ,l\is de ,b]ghem tri$ 8 newly inv5t$ me?od ( cutt+4 ,ar\nd x 7 set ?ree balas rubies1 /yl$ f _! equality 9 size & weight ! ,?ree ,bro!rs1 :i*1 ow+ to _! f9e quality1 7 set op51 )\t ! foil ) :i* /ones 7 !n usually back$4 ,betwe5 ^! 7 f\r enorm\s pe>ls 7,pl4 ,,xxv1 #c74 ,accord+ to ! univ]sal cu/om ( 8 day1 ! ,duke1 accompani$ by all 8 treasure :5 campaign+1 c>ri$ ?is jewel ) him1 p>tly to h x con/antly "u 8 p]sonal sup]vision1 & p>tly because ( ! magic prop]ties !n attribut$ to preci\s /ones4 ,captur$ by a common soldi] f 8 t5t aft] 8 memorable defeat at ! battle ( ,granson 9 #adge1 ! p5dant came into ! possession ( ! magi/rates ( ,b]ne1 & f !m 0 pur*as$ by ,jacob ,fugg]1 ( ! opul5t m]*ant family ( ,augsburg1 ^: son1 aft] keep+ x = sev]al ye>s1 dispos$ ( x to ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,fifty ye>s lat] ! jewel 0 /ill intact1 & 9 ,james ,i's inv5tory ( ! cr[n jewels 9 #afjc1 x is ?us describ$3#acd ,a fayre ,fl[]1#ace ) ?ree greate ballaces1 9 ! mydde/ a greate po9t$ dyamonde1 & ?ree greate p]les fix$1 ) a fayre greate p]le p5daunte1 call$ ! ,bre?r54 ,! la/ we he> ( ?is fam\s jewel is 9 #afbc1 :5 x is describ$ 9 ! same words 9 ! li/ ( jewels remov$ f ! ,t[] by ,james ,i1 & h&$ ov] to 8 jewell] ,h]iot to be refa%ion$ = ! use ( ,*>les & ,buck+ham on _! visit to ,spa94 ,t x 0 !n rem\nt$ is evid5t f ! ,k+'s lett] to 8 son1 9 :i* he says3 ,i s5d = y\r we>+ ! ,?ree ,bre?r51 t y kn[e full well1 b newlie sette4 #acc ,lambecius1 ,biblio!ca ,cs>ea ,v9dobon5si1 ,,ii1 p4 #eab4 #acd ,kal5d>s & ,inv5tories ( ! ,ex*equ]1 ,,ii1 p4 #cjd4 #ace ,t p5dants 7 t]m$ fl[]s is cle> f ,w4 ,?omas's ,italian ,gramm> 7#aedh71 :]e a f]maglio is def9$ z ! hange+ ow*e1 or fl[re t wom5 use to tye at ! *ayne or lace t !y we>e ab\t _! neckes 7,way1 ,prompt4 p>v41 p4 #cei1 n4 #c74 ,ab\t ! ye> #aecf ! great pa9t] ,hans ,holbe91 :o _h come to ,engl& sev]al ye>s previ\sly1 ent]$ into ! s]vice ( ,h5ry ,,viii1 & x 0 betwe5 t date & 8 dea? 9 #aedc t he execut$ ^? ma/]pieces ( design = jewell]y :i* w ev] /& z a l&m>k 9 ! hi/ory ( ! subject4 ,!re is no evid5ce to %[ t ,holbe9 himself work$ 9 ! preci\s metals4 ,b br\ght up "u simil> influ5ces z _h m\ld$ ! great ,italian arti/s ( ! ,r5aissance1 ,ghib]ti1 ,pollaiuolo1 ,v]roc*io1 ,francia1 & ,ghirl&aio1 :o comb9$ ! arts ( pa9t+1 ar*itecture1 & sculpture ) ! jewell]'s craft1 he _h be5 well gr\nd$ 9 ! limitations ( 8 mat]ials1 & knew h[ f> ! draughtsman c\ld display 8 skill 9 ?is direction4 ,! mo/ important ( ,holbe9's designs = jewell]y are pres]v$ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 to :i* !y 7 bequea!d by ,sir ,hans ,sloane 9 #agec4 ,! collection1 orig9ally m\nt$ 9 a qu>to volume1 t]m$ ,holbe9's ,london ,sket*-book1 is n[ rem\nt$ & sy/ematically arrang$4 ,! designs1 compris+ #agi sep>ate items1 are = ! mo/ "p drawn ) a p5 ) black ink1 & !n "s slight t\*es ( br[n put 9 = ! %ad[s4 ,sev]al ( ! designs h ! gr\nd black5$1 ! ornam5ts be+ left 9 :ite4 ,"s ( ! jewels1 entirely col\r$ & (t5 t\*$ up ) gold1 are design$ = enamell+ 9 high relief2 "s are p]haps design$ = execution 9 niello1 ?\gh x is n improbable t ^! 7 int5d$ to be ornam5t$ ) black *amplev enamel4 ,! mo/ attractive are ! patt]ns = jewels enri*$ ) preci\s /ones & enamels1 ! majority ( :i* 7 = neck p5dants int5d$ to hang f a *a91 ribbon1 or silk5 cord1 itself sometimes %[n 9 ! draw+ 7,pl4 ,,xxvi74 ,! design ( a few ( ^! p5dants is bas$ ^u ! prevail+ cu/om ( we>+ initials ( ! "n ei!r 9 embroid]y or 9 pure gold atta*$ to ! g>m5ts4 ,"s curi\s in/ances ( ?is fa%ion are record$ by ,hall1 p>ticul>ly 9 8 graphic acc\nt ( :at took place at a masque giv5 by ,h5ry ,,viii at 8 palace at ,we/m9/]4 ,^u ! ,k+'s invitation to divide ! ri* g>m5ts ( ! mask]s sewn ) lett]s ( f9e & massy gold 9 bullyon z ?icke z !y might be1 :i* g5]ally w5t z l>gess to ! ladies1 a rabble ( citiz5s1 :o 7 all[$ to look on1 broke 91 & ranne to ! ,kyng & /ripp$ hym into 8 hos5 & dublet1 & all 8 compaignions 9 l wyse4 ,syr ,?omas ,knevet /ode on a /age1 & = all 8 def5ce he lo/ 8 app>ell4 ,! ladies l wyse 7 spoyl$1 :]=e ! ,kynges g>de came sod5ly1 & put ! p backe1 or els x 0 suppos$ m inconv5i5ce _h ensu$4 ,s pure 0 ! gold ( :i* ^! lett]s 7 compos$ t x is record$ subsequ5tly t a %ipeman ( ,london :o caught c]tayn lett]s s\ld !m to a goldsmy? = #c4 #ad4 #h--q a consid]able sum 9 ^? days4 ,9 ! same way jewell$ initials 7 also frequ5tly worn 9 ! =m ( p5dants & a jewell$ ,b c be se5 hang+ f ! neck ( ,anne ,boleyn 9 h] portrait 9 ! ,national ,portrait ,gall]y4 ,holbe9's draw+s conta9 sev]al beautiful in/ances ( ?is type ( design1 g5]ally complet$ ) ?ree p5d5t pe>ls4 ,"o ( !m has a monogram ( ! initials ,r & ,e 9 *as$ & engrav$ gold set at ! f\r corn]s ) two rubies1 an em]ald1 & a diamond4 ,ano!r has ! lett]s ,h & ,i 7probably = ,h5ry & ,jane ,seym\r7 ) an em]ald 9 ! c5tre2 & a some:at simil> jewel1 =m$ ( ! sacr$ monogram1 is worn by ,jane ,seym\r 9 h] portrait by ,holbe9 at ,vi5na4 ,! designs = ! l>g] p5dants1 mo/ly circul> or loz5ge-%ap$1 are set ) sapphires1 diamonds1 rubies1 & pe>ls1 & t]m9ate ) l>ge pe>-%ap$ pe>ls4 ,! spaces betwe5 ! /ones are fill$ ) *as$ or enamell$ arrangem5ts ( scroll or leaf "w4 ,! small] jewels1 :i* might also h be5 worn z enseignes or badges on ! hat1 or z broo*es1 are ( op5 goldwork ) leaf or ribbon ornam5t set ) /ones & pe>ls4 ,!y include a v beautiful design ( a half-l5g? figure ( a lady 9 ! co/ume ( ! p]iod hold+ betwe5 h] h&s a l>ge /one1 ^u :i* is ! inscription ,,well ,,laydi ,,well 7,pl4 ,,xxvi1 #i74 ,! fifte5?-c5tury traditions seem to h influ5c$ ,holbe9 9 ! design ( ?is jewel1 :i* at once calls to m9d ! ,flemi%-,burgundian broo*es 7an example ( :i*1 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 has already be5 m5tion$7 ornam5t$ ) simil> figures1 full-fac$1 & hold+ a l>ge /one be=e !m4 ,! jewels actually execut$ f ^! designs 7 probably ! "w ( ,hans ( ,antw]p1 kn[n z ,john ,anw>pe4#acf ,he 0 a fri5d ( ,holbe91 & "o ( ! witnesses ( 8 w2 & 8 portrait1 pa9t$ by ,holbe91 is n[ at ,w9dsor4 ,hans ( ,antw]p appe>s to h settl$ 9 ,london ab\t #aead1 hav+ p]haps be5 induc$ to d s by ,?omas ,cromwell1 :o 9 e>ly life resid$ = a "t 9 ,antw]p z secret>y to ! ,engli% m]*ants !re4 ,x 0 presumably ,cromwell :o1 z ,ma/] ( ! ,k+'s ,jewel ,h\se1 0 in/rum5tal 9 procur+ = him ! po/ ( ! ,k+'s goldsmi?4 ,8 "n occurs sev]al times 9 ,cromwell's acc\nts1 & x 0 9 accordance ) ! latt]'s ryght h>tye comm5dations t he obta9$ ! fre$om ( ! ,goldsmi?s' ,company ( ,london4 ,! *ief duty ( ! ,k+'s goldsmi? 0 to supply ! ,new ,ye>'s gifts 7e/r5nes71 s popul> at t "t4 ,^! usually took ! =m ( p]sonal ornam5ts1 & x seems likely t ,holbe9's fam\s sket*es 7 specially design$ = ?is purpose4 #acf ,8 family "n 0 ,van d] ,g[ or ,van d] ,goes4 ,see ,l4 ,cu/1 ,burl+ton ,magaz9e1 ,,viii1 p4 #cef4 ,,elizabe?--,,m>y ,,/u>t ,h[ev] rem>kable ! ,c\rt ( ,h5ry ,,viii 0 = its pr(usion ( jewell]y1 t ( ,que5 ,elizabe?1 :o inh]it$ ! ,tudor love = display1 0 /ill m extravagant4 ,?r\gh\t h] reign--a p]iod m>k$ also ^u ! ,cont95t = its prolific production ( jewell]y--! fa%ion set by ! jewel-lov+ ,que5 = a sup]abundance ( f9]y ma9ta9$ its sway4 ,! c\ntry sudd5ly becom+ weal?y1 0 tempt$1 l "o n born to ri*es1 to use ! :ole 9 outw>d %[1 & ?is display 0 r5d]$ comp>atively easy by ! influx ( gold & preci\s /ones aft] ! ,spani% conque/s 9 ,am]ica4 ,num]\s portraits ( c\rti]s & c\rt ladies af=d ample evid5ce ( ! prevail+ fa%ions 9 jewell]y1 :ile ! portraits ( ! ,que5 h]self1 all ov]burd5$ ) ornam5ts1 are too well kn[n to ne$ detail$ description4#acg ,!re is n a s+le portrait ( h]1 says ,walpole1 t "o c call beautiful4 ,! pr(usion ( ornam5ts ) :i* !y are load$ are m>ks ( h] cont9ual fondness = dress1 :ile !y entirely exclude all grace1 & leave no m room = a pa9t]'s g5ius ?an if he _h be5 employ$ to copy an ,indian idol1 totally compos$ ( h&s & necklaces4 ,a pale ,roman nose1 a head ( hair load$ ) cr[ns & p[d]$ ) diamonds1 a va/ ruff1 a va/] f>d+ale1 a bu%el ( pe>ls1 are features by :i* e body kn[s at once ! pictures ( ,que5 ,elizabe?4 #acg ,an enorm\s numb] ( ^! exi/4 ,a catalogue ( !m has be5 drawn up by ,mr4 ,f4 ,m4 ,o',donoghue1 ( ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,an excell5t description ( ! jewell]y ( ,elizabe? t[>ds ! close ( h] brilliant reign is giv5 by ,paul ,h5tzn]1 :o visit$ ,engl& 9 #aeih3 ,! ,que5 _h 9 h] e>s two pe>ls ) v ri* drops2 %e wore false hair & t r$2 ^u h] head %e _h a small cr[n2 h] bosom 0 uncov]$1 & %e _h on a necklace ( exce$+ly f9e jewels4 ,%e 0 dress$ 9 :ite silk1 bord]$ ) pe>ls ( ! size ( beans1 & ov] x a mantle ( black silk %ot ) silv] ?reads2 h] tra9 0 v long4 ,in/ead ( a *a91 %e _h an oblong coll> ( gold & jewels4 ,to a c\rti] :o knelt to h]1 aft] pull+ (f h] glove1 %e gave h] "r h& to kiss1 sp>kl+ ) r+s & jewels4 ,! be/ ( all repres5tations ( t bright occid5tal ,/> is h] fad$ waxwork effigy1 /ill to be se5 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey--no o!r ?an ! "o :i* on ! #bh? ( ,april1 #afjc1 0 c>ri$ on h] c(f9 to ! ,abbey4 ,x %[s ! v]itable passion ,elizabe? possess$ = pe>ls4 ,h] /oma*] is encru/$ ) l>ge ,roman pe>ls1 :ile /r+s ( pe>ls hang r\nd h] ?roat & neck4 ,h] e>r+s are circul> pe>l & ruby m$allions1 ) huge pe>-%ap$ pe>l p5dants4 ,full ( detail are ! records ( co/ly juelles t h come d[n to u1 p>ticul>ly 9 ! li/1 pres]v$ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1#ach ( ! ,new ,ye>'s gifts pres5t$ to ! ,que51 f ! f\rte5? to ! ?irty-six? ye> ( h] reign4 ,! practice ( ex*ang+ pres5ts on ,new ,ye>'s ,day atta9$ extraord9>y proportions at ! ,c\rt ( ,elizabe?1 & 0 supplem5t$ by bir?day pres5ts1 :i*1 z ,h] ,maje/y's weakness = jewell]y 0 well kn[n1 took = ! mo/ "p ! =m ( p]sonal ornam5ts ( e k9d4 ,! v accurate acc\nts t 7 kept by ! (fic]s ( ! ,que5's w>drobe ( e item 9 h] enorm\s /ore ( jewell]y is witness$ by a numb] ( curi\s entries 9 h] w>drobe-book ( losses ( jewell]y su/a9$ by ,h] ,maje/y4#aci #ach ,briti% ,museum4 ,,mss4 ,no4 #dhbg4 #aci ,/rickl&1 ,que5s ( ,engl&1 ,,iv1 pp4 #bfb1 #daf4 ,9 addition to num]\s inv5tories & wills full ( in=mation conc]n+ ! jewell]y ( ! p]iod1 we h at our s]vice1 z 9 ,roman times1 ! works ( social satiri/s1 su* z ,! ,anatomie ( ,abuses1 by ,philip ,/ubbes 7#aehc71 & ,bi%op ,hall's poetical satires ( #aeig1 to :i* we are indebt$ = _m valuable details4 ,9 accept+ ^! x is well to be> 9 m9d ! common t5d5cy ( e age to ridicule its own fa%ions2 yet1 9 spite ( ,puritan n>r[ness1 & ! exagg]at$ indignation ( ! satiri/1 x is manife/ t extraord9>y luxury & extravagance 9 dress & jewell]y 7 preval5t n only at ,c\rt1 b among all classes ( ! community4 ,( great] importance1 h[ev]1 ?an ! in=mation to be glean$ f pictorial & lit]>y s\rces is t d]iv$ f ! actual jewels !mselves1 a consid]able numb] ( :i*1 ?r\gh all ! *anges & *ances ( m ?an ?ree c5turies1 h be5 h&$ d[n /ill practically intact1 & reta9+ ! *ief feature ( _! decoration--_! exquisite enamel4 ,%akespe>e1 :ile appreciat+ ! *>m ( its h>moni\s comb9ation ( col\rs1 recognis$1 x appe>s1 ! delicacy ( ?is beautiful m$ium1 :5 9 ! ,com$y ( ,errors he makes ,adriana say3-- ,i see ! jewel be/ enamell$ ,w lose 8 beauty2 yet ! gold bides /ill1 ,t o!rs t\*1 & (t5 t\*+ w ,we> gold4 ,! ,new ,le>n+1 :i* made itself felt 9 ,engl& dur+ ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vii1 began at ?is "t to ex]cise a direct influ5ce on ! *oice ( ! designs ( jewels & on ! arrangem5t ( _! ornam5tation4 ,z witnesses ( ! intellectual revival1 !y (t5 took emblematic =ms1 be>+ 9 exquisite enamel-"w fancy mottoes & devices1 g5]ally obscure 9 _! int]pretation1 & int5d$ to express ! s5tim5ts ( _! we>]s1 or ^? ( donors1 reg>d+ ! presum$ /ate ( m9d ( _! recipi5ts4 ,! passion = ^! rea*$ its height 9 ! gold5 days ( ,good ,que5 ,bess1 :5 x became ! fa%ion = ! bejewell$ gallants :o flutt]$ l a sw>m ( glitt]+ insects ar\nd h] to display _! wit & +5uity 9 devis+ jewell$ emblems z fit pres5ts to ! ,virg9 ,que54 ,?us 9 ! li/ ( co/ly articles ( jewell]y (f]$ to ,elizabe?1 we meet ) ! pres5t1 made 9 ,*ri/mas week #aeha1 by "s c\rti]s disguis$ z mask]s1 ( a jewel 9 ! =m ( a fl[] ( golde1 g>ni%$ ) sp>cks ( diamonds1 rubyes1 & ophales1 ) an aga! ( h] ,maje/is phisnamy & a p]le p5dante1 ) devices pa9t$ 9 x4 ,! love = /range devices & enigmatical mottoes 0 fo/]$ by ! _s ( an age t witness$ ! production ( ,lyly's ,euphues & ,sp5s]'s ,fa]ie ,que5e2 :ile ,elizabe?'s colossal vanity prompt$ ! d$ication to h] ( highly laudatory mottoes1 l ! inscription on a jewel belong+ to ,mr4 ,pi]pont ,morgan3 ,,hei ,,mihi ,,quod ,,tanto ,,virtus ,,p]fusa ,,decore ,,non ,,habet ,,et]nos ,,inviolata ,,dies4 ,few ( ! jewels ( ?is /irr+ p]iod display a m *>m+ symbolism ?an ^? produc$ aft] ! defeat & de/ruction ( ! ,spani% ,armada1 :]eon ,engl& is figur$ z an ark float+ securely & tranquilly on a tr\bl$ sea1 surr\nd$ by ! motto1 ,,saevas ,,tranquilla ,,p] ,,undas4 ,! mo/ rem>kable ( ^! ,armada jewels is ,mr4 ,pi]pont ,morgan's1 j m5tion$1 & ano!r ( ! same class 9 ! ,poldi-,pezzoli ,museum1 ,milan4 ,a jewel m *>act]i/ic ( ! p]iod ?an any o!r1 & an hi/orical relic ( s+ul> int]e/1 is t *ef d'oeuvre ( inv5tive g5ius--! ,l5nox or ,d>nley jewel1 ! prop]ty ( ,8 ,maje/y ! ,k+4 ,x is cov]$ inside & out ) ! mo/ elaborate symbolism1 & conta9s altoge!r no less ?an tw5ty-eight emblems & six mottoes 7,pl4 ,,xxviii1 #d74 ,int]nal evid5ce proves ?is rem>kable jewel to h be5 made by ord] ( ,lady ,m>g>et ,d\glas1 "m ( ,h5ry ,d>nley1 9 memory ( h] husb&1 ,mat!w ,/u>t1 ,e>l ( ,l5nox1 :o 0 kill$ 9 #aega4 ,among _m o!r examples ( ,elizabe?an jewell]y1 !re /& out above ! re/ a c]ta9 numb] to :i*1 besides _! high arti/ic excell5ce1 is atta*$ ! additional int]e/ ( hi/orical associations4 ,to ?is class belong ! foll[+ important jewels3 ! ,b]keley heirlooms1 belong+ to ,"l ,fitzh>d+e2 ! ,drake jewels1 ! prop]ty ( ,sir ,francis ,full]-,eliott-,drake2 ! ,wild ,jewel 7,miss ,wild72 ! ,b>bor ,jewel 7,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum72 & ! ,pho5ix ,jewel 7,sloane ,collection1 ,briti% ,museum74 ,public & private collections likewise conta9 a consid]able numb] ( enamell$ m9iature cases furni%$ ) loops = susp5sion1 & cameos set ) jewell$ & enamell$ m\nt+s ( ! p]iod4 ,! ,b]keley heirlooms1 among :i* is ! ,anglo-,saxon r+ already m5tion$1 include ! ,hunsdon ,onyx1 ! ,drake p5dant 9 =m ( a %ip1 ,edw>d ,,vi's ,pray] ,book1 & a cry/al armlet4 ,^! exquisite jewels1 accord+ to tradition1 7 pres5t$ by ,que5 ,elizabe? to h] c\s9 ,h5ry ,c>ey1 ,"l ,hunsdon1 :o di$ 9 #aeif4 ,!y !n pass$ to 8 son ,george1 ! second ,b>on ,hunsdon1 :o s highly valu$ !m1 t he bequea!d !m on 8 dea?1 9 #afjc1 to 8 wife1 & aft]w>ds to 8 only daught] ,elizabe?1 ) /rict injunctions to transmit ! same to h] po/]ity1 to be pres]v$ 7accord+ to ! actual t]ms ( 8 w7 ,soe longe z ! consci5ce ( my heires %all h grace & hone/ie to p]=m my w1 = t ,i e/eeme !m "r jeweles1 & monum5tes wor?ie to be kept = !ire beautie1 r>5ess1 & t = monie !y are n to be mat*$1 nor ! l yet kn[5 to be f\nde 9 ?is realme4 ,! jewels m5tion$1 :i* came into ! ,b]keley family ?r\gh ! m>riage ( ! above-nam$ ,elizabe? ,c>ey ) ,"l ,b]keley1 are /ill pres]v$ at ,b]keley ,ca/le4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxviii ,,r5aissance ,,jewell]y ,,( ,,enamell$ ,,gold 7,,! ,,prop]ty ,,( ,,8 ,,maje/y ,,! ,,k+7 ,fur!r ref]5ce to ^! & o!r rem>kable ,elizabe?an jewels w be giv5 :5 ! special species ( ornam5ts to :i* !y belong is be+ dealt )4 ,!re is "o jewel ( ?is date1 h[ev]1 :i*1 ?\gh x no long] exi/s1 is ( p>ticul> int]e/ f ! fact t x is specially m5tion$ 9 ! fam\s inv5tory ( ,*>les ,i's collection drawn up by ,abraham ,van d] ,doort 9 #afci4adj ,?is gold5 jewel1 we le>n1 0 r\nd1 & hung ) a small p5d5t pe>l2 "o side 0 enamell$ ) a repres5tation ( ! battle ( ,boswor? ,field1 & ! o!r ) ! r$ & :ite roses ( ,lanca/] & ,york ^u a gre5 gr\nd4 ,)9 7 f\r m9iatures1 ,h5ry ,,vii1 ,h5ry ,,viii1 ,edw>d ,,vi1 & ,que5 ,m>y4 ,! m9iatures are /ill pres]v$ at ,w9dsor ,ca/le1 b %orn ( _! enamell$ case1 :i* has long s9ce disappe>$4 ,! jewel 0 b\ght by ! ,k+1 s ,van d] ,doort tells u1 f "y ,hilli>d1 son ( ! fam\s m9iaturi/ ,ni*olas ,hilli>d1 :o1 besides pa9t+ ! m9iatures1 probably also execut$ ! enamel-"w ^u ! jewel itself4 ,hilli>d1 l ! arti/s ( ! ,r5aissance already cit$1 _h be5 br\ght up z a goldsmi? & jewell]1 &1 z we see by ! inscription :i* he plac$ r\nd 8 own portrait1 held an appo9tm5t z goldsmi? at ,elizabe?'s ,c\rt2 :ile 8 k & love ( jewell]y are admirably display$ 9 8 m9iatures1 9 :i* e jewel is pa9t$ ) faultless accuracy & c>e4 #adj ,v]tue 7,g471 ,catalogue ( ! collection ( ,*>les ,i1 p4 #dg4 ,! m5tion ( ,hilli>d introduces to our notice ! o!r creators ( ! beautiful jewell]y ( ! p]iod4 ,engli% "w cont9u$ to be influ5c$ by ! ,cont95t2 & engrav$ designs = jewell]y by ! ,fr5*m5 ,duc]ceau & ,woeiriot1 & by ! em95t goldsmi? & engrav] ,!odor de ,bry1 :o himself work$ 9 ,london 9 #aehg & ! two foll[+ ye>s1 mu/ h be5 well kn[n & imitat$ 9 ,engl&4 ,9 spite ( ?is1 h[ev]1 x w\ld appe> t ,engli%m5 7 no long] actually dep5d5t = _! jewell]y ^u =eign]s4 ,! latt] ceas$ to hold ! virtual monopoly !y _h once enjoy$2 & _! place 0 tak5 by a numb] ( native craftsm54 ,among ^!1 ! foll[+ 7 ! mo/ prom95t3 ,d]icke ,an?ony1 ,affabel ,p>tridge1 ,pet] ,tr5d]1 & ,nicolas ,h]rick--eld] bro!r ( ,william ,h]rick1 ,james ,i's jewell]1 & fa!r ( ,rob]t ,h]rick ! poet4 ,dur+ ! latt] ye>s ( h] reign ,hugh ,kayle & 8 p>tn] ,sir ,ri*>d ,m>t9 suppli$ ! ,que5 ) jewels z ,new ,ye>'s gifts & pres5ts to ambassadors am\nt+ to upw>ds ( #ab1jjj4 ,en\gh has be5 said to demon/rate t ! reign ( ,elizabe?1 f]tile 9 great ev5ts1 0 productive ( mu* important jewell]y1 ^: *>m1 excell5ce1 & hi/oric int]e/ h1 up to ! pres5t1 by no means receiv$ ! att5tion !y des]ve4 ,& x may be /at$1 )\t prejudice1 t jewels ( ! p]iod :i* be> a cle> /amp ( ,engli% orig9 comp>e fav\rably1 nay ev5 advantage\sly1 ) ! productions ( contempor>y jewell]s ( ! ,cont95t4 99 99 99 ,! jewels ( ! unhappy ,m>y ,/u>t =m a subject ( peculi> int]e/4 ,l h] jeal\s rival ,que5 ,elizabe?1 ,m>y 0 mo/ lavi% 9 h] display ( jewell]y4 ,9 addition to ! cr[n jewels %e _h a pr(usion ( p]sonal ornam5ts1 h] own private prop]ty4 ,h] inv5tories1 publi%$ by ! ,bannatyne ,club 7#ahfc71 furni% _m a vivid description ( ! spl5did objects :i*1 dur+ ! c\rse ( h] turbul5t life1 %e be/[$ on h] fri5ds or lo/ "u /ress ( circum/ances4 ,!y h fur!r acquir$ q an hi/orical celebrity f ! frequ5cy ) :i* !y 7 claim$ by _! un=tunate mi/ress 9 h] appeals = m]cy & ju/ice dur+ h] long captivity1 & ! rapacity ) :i* h] royal jail] & o!r enemies s\ght or reta9$ possession ( ^! glitt]+ spoils4 ,x is impossible "h to ent] into details respect+ ! _m beautiful ?+s record$ 9 h] inv5tories1 or ! /range vicissitudes t !y und]w5t4 ,_! disp]sal w\ld seem to h begun ) h] infatuat$ passion = ,bo?well4 ,! numb] ( jewels %e lavi%$ on him :5 !y p>t$ on ,c>b]ry ,hill1 ^? %e di/ribut$ z p]sonal gifts1 & o!rs t s]v$ 9 ! v>i\s em]g5cies 9 :i* ! un=tunate ,que5 f\nd h]self1 af=d "s idea ( ! extraord9>y quantity ( preci\s articles 9 h] possession4 ,a few ( ,m>y's actual jewels1 su* z ! ,duke ( ,norfolk's ros>y & jewell$ necklace1 ! ,duke ( ,portl&'s jewell$ cameo1 & ! ,p5icuik jewel1 h be5 pres]v$ to our own day4 ,along ) ! hi/orical docum5ts mu/ rank ! ,lev5 & ,melville portrait--! brilliant c5tre-piece ( ,mr4 ,&rew ,lang's ,portraits & ,jewels ( ,m>y ,/u>t4 ,z f> z jewell]y 9 g5]al is conc]n$1 ?is portrait may be said to m]it great] consid]ation ?an any picture ( its own or ( o!r times1 9 t x displays a complete p>ure ( contempor>y jewell]y1 ea* item ( :i* is ent]$ & describ$ 9 detail 9 ! p]sonal inv5tories ( ! individual x repres5ts4 ,,*apt] ,,xxv ,,r5aissance ,,head-,,ornam5ts 7,,enseignes1 ,,aigrettes1 ,,hair-,,p9s1 ,,e>r+s7 ,! orig9 ( ! ornam5ts = ! hat or cap1 kn[n g5]ally z enseignes1 has be5 m5tion$ 9 deal+ ) ! jewell]y ( ! ,middle ,ages4 ,at ! p]iod ( ! ,r5aissance1 ! enseigne--! bij\ p> excell5ce x has be5 t]m$--0 above all ! recipi5t ( ! v highe/ workman%ip1 & =m$ ! subject ( v>i$ designs ( ! mo/ +5i\s "*4 ,by ! beg9n+ ( ! fifte5? c5tury fa%ion _h already turn$ hat-badges almo/ entirely into articles ( adornm5t1 & judg+ by t worn by ,k+ ,dagob]t 9 ,petrus ,*ri/us's picture ( #addi1 &1 among/ _m o!r portraits1 by t ( ,ri*>d ,,iii 9 ! ,national ,portrait ,gall]y1 ^! jewels 7 compos$ ( goldsmi?'s "w1 enamell$1 & set ) preci\s /ones4 ,9 ! sixte5? c5tury ! majority ( enseignes seem always to h borne "s figur$ design2 & ,cell9i1 ref]r+ to ! ye> #aebe1 says3 ,x 0 ! cu/om at t epo* to we> little gold5 m$als1 ^u :i* e nobleman or man ( quality _h "s device or fancy ( 8 own engrav$2 & ^! 7 worn 9 ! cap4 ,= a consid]able "t ! e>li] religi\s badges sold at places ( pilgrimage cont9u$ to be worn4 ,?\gh enseignes v frequ5tly bore "s religi\s repres5tation1 or ! figure or emblem ( "s patron sa9t1 !y end$1 l o!r articles prim>ily religi\s1 by becom+ purely secul>1 & took ! =ms ( devices ( a fanciful or ev5 humor\s "*4 ,e "o f ! highe/ rank d[nw>ds _h 8 p]sonal devise or impresa1 or m (t5 a s]ies ( !m4 ,x 0 worn z an emblem--an +5i\s expression ( "s conceit ( ! we>]1 ! outcome ( 8 peculi> frame ( m9d4 ,x usually conta9$ "s obscure mean+1 ! s5se ( :i*1 half hidd5 & half reveal$1 0 int5d$ to af=d "s play = ! +5uity ( ! obs]v]4 ,! love ( ! "t = express+ ?+s by riddles l$ to ! publication ( sets ( emblems1 l ^? ( ,alciatus1 :i* _h imitators 9 all directions4 ,e "o1 9 fact1 tri$ 8 h& at ^! toys ( ! imag9ation4 ,numb]s ( enseignes are m5tion$ 9 ! inv5tories1 & male portraits v commonly exhibit ?is =m ( decoration4 ,wom5 also wore !m ^u ! hat or 9 ! hair1 b n until ab\t ! middle ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,! hat 0 turn$ up s z to %[ ! l9+1 & ! badge 0 usually plac$ "u ! rim1 at ! side1 & some:at to ! front ( ! hat4 ,"s ( ^! m$allions are furni%$ ) a p91 l a broo*2 b z ! majority h loops at ! edge1 or are pi]c$ ) holes = ! purpose ( sew+ !m to ! head-dress1 !y c z a rule be di/+ui%$ f ord9>y broo*es4 ,p5dants ( ! same =m z ^? hung f neck-*a9s also appe> occasionally z enseignes ^u ! hat4 ,9 ,engl&1 dur+ ! sixte5? c5tury1 broo*es1 ow*es1 or n[*es1 z !y 7 (t5 call$1 7 ext5sively worn 9 caps & hats#ada z m5's jewels 9 p>ticul>2 & besides ^! !re 7 jewell$ hat-b&s ri*ly decorat$ ) preci\s /ones4 ,! *ronicl] ,hall m5tions t on "o occasion1 9 #aeac1 ,h5ry ,,viii wore a hat call$ a *apeau montabyn :i* 0 adorn$ ) a ri* b& or coronal1 & _h 9 addition an enseigne1 = ye folde ( ! *apeau 0 l9$ ) crimsyn sat52 & on yt a ri*e broo* )e ye image ( sa9ct ,george4 ,an enamell$ broo* ( ?is design modell$ 9 full relief ) ! figure ( ,/4 ,george & ! dragon1 ) ! ,pr9cess ,sabra 9 ! backgr\nd1 is pres]v$ among/ ! exce$+ly int]e/+ s]ies ( jewels 9 ,8 ,maje/y's collection at ,w9dsor ,ca/le4 ,x is ( gold1 f9ely *as$1 brilliantly modell$1 & surr\nd$ ) an op5 wire balu/rade enamell$ gre54 ,?is broo*1 traditionally believ$ to h be5 worn by ,h5ry ,,viii1 is kn[n z ! ,holbe9 ,george2 b int]nal evid5ces t5d to prove ! unlikelihood ( ,holbe9 hav+ _h any h& 9 its con/ruction4 ,x appe>s to be ( ,v5etian orig9--?\gh n )\t "s traces ( ,g]man influ5ce--& to date f ! fir/ few ye>s ( ! sixte5? c5tury 7,pl4 ,,xxviii1 #b74 #ada ,he gave me a jewel ! o!r day1 & n[ he has beat x out ( my hat 7,timon ( ,a!ns1 ,act iii47 ,hon\r's a good broo* to we> 9 a man's hat at all times 7,b5 ,jonson1 ,poeta/]74 ,& 8 hat turn$ up1 ) a silv] clasp on 8 le] side 7,b5 ,jonson1 ,tale ( a ,tub74 ,!re exi/ sev]al o!r jewels1 ! majority ( !m hat-ornam5ts1 execut$ 9 ?is s-call$ gold wire enamel1#adb ( ! same exquisite & r>e /yle ( workman%ip1 & all possess+ a s+ul> lik5ess to t at ,w9dsor1 bo? 9 ! patt]ns ( ! dresses worn by ! figures repres5t$ on !m1 & 9 g5]al treatm5t1 p>ticul>ly ( ! hair ( ! figures1 :i* is =m$ ( r+lets ( spiral twi/$ gold wire4 ,among o!r examples are two 9 ! ,salt+ ,collection1 ano!r :i* 0 lately 9 ! collection ( ,sir ,t4 ,gibson ,c>mi*ael1#adc & a f\r? 9 ! ,cab9et des ,antiques 9 ! ,biblio?que ,nationale1 ,p>is4 #adb ,bonnaff 7,e471 ,la collection ,spitz]1 ,,iii1 p4 #acd4 #adc ,burl+ton ,f9e ,arts ,club1 ,catalogue ( enamels1 #ahig4 ,! wide range ( subjects *os5 = hat-ornam5ts c be/ be judg$ f ! li/s ( bonnets 9 ,h5ry ,,viii's possession 9 ! ye>s #aebf & #aecj1 enri*$ ) a v>iety ( broo*es4#add #add ,lett]s & ,pap]s ( ,h5ry ,,viii1 ,,iv1 ,nos4 #aijg & #fghi4 ,repres5tations ( enseignes 9 pictures are too frequ5t to p]mit ( any attempt to enum]ate !m4 ,x is impossible1 h[ev]1 to refra9 f draw+ att5tion to ! f9e male portraits ( ,b>tolommeo ,v5eto1 an arti/ ( m>k$ individuality ( "*1 :o work$ at ,v5ice f ab\t #aeje to #aecj4 ,he appe>s to h delight$ 9 pa9t+ ) peculi> c>e ! beautiful enseignes worn by 8 sitt]s--attractive jewels enamell$ 9 ronde bosse1 & contempor>y ) ! ,w9dsor ,george & its fell[s4 ,! examples ( 8 "w t display su* ornam5ts 9 ! mo/ /rik+ mann] are 9 ! foll[+ collections3 ,fitzwilliam ,museum1 ,cambridge2 ,dor*e/] ,h\se1 ,london2 ! ,crespi ,gall]y1 ,milan2 ! collection ( ,b>on ,tu*] at ,vi5na2 & ! ,national ,gall]y1 ,rome4#ade #ade ,l',arte1 ,,ii1 p4 #dcb1 #ahii4 ,"o ( ! mo/ exquisite jewels ( ! ,r5aissance is a m$allion ( enamell$ gold numb]$ #eehc 9 ! ,biblio?que ,nationale at ,p>is4 ,x is oval1 & 9 a space ( #b by #b-c_/af in*es conta9s a composition ( no less ?an twelve m5 & eight horses 9 high relief1 repres5t+ a battle4 ,horsem5 & foot-soldi]s 9 antique arm\r are engag$ 9 furi\s combat1 & _m h fall54 ,"o horseman c>ries a bann]et :i* flies 9 ! w9d4 ,! backgr\nd is enamell$ gre51 & ! figures1 delicately modell$1 are :ite1 save = _! arm\r & weapons1 :i* are res]v$ 9 ! gold4 ,! frame ( ! jewel is furni%$ ) f\r loops1 :i* cle>ly expla9 its use 7,pl4 ,,xxix1 #b74 ,its design (f]s an int]e/+ comp>ison ) two cameos 7,nos4 #fdc & #fdd71 !mselves fanciful r5d]+s ( ! subject ( ano!r cameo 7,no4 #fde71 & an intaglio1 ! "w ( ,matteo del ,nass>o1 9 ! same collection1 bo? und\bt$ly inspir$ by ! fam\s pa9t+ aft] ,raphael1 kn[n z ! ,battle ( ,con/ant9e at ! ,milvian ,bridge 7,a4,d4 #cab71 9 ! s-call$ ,gall]y ( ,con/ant9e 9 ! ,vatican4 ,among ! jewels 9 ! public collections 9 ,london1 :i* on acc\nt ( _! design or =m 7 presumably int5d$ to be worn 9 ! hat or cap1 !re are sev]al notewor?y examples4 ,! ,wallace ,collection conta9s a circul> gold enseigne1 rep\ss1 *as$1 & p>tly enamell$1 ) a repres5tation ( ,judi? c>ry+ ! head ( ,hol(]nes4 ,x is probably ,italian4 ,9 ! ,waddesdon ,beque/ at ! ,briti% ,museum is an oval badge enamell$ 9 relief ) ! ,judgm5t ( ,p>is4 ,x is ( ! same m9ute /yle ( "w z t ( ! ,battle-,piece1 & is ( /rik+ simil>ity to a draw+ by ,hans ,mieli*1 9 ! ,royal ,libr>y1 ,muni*4#adf #adf ,hefn]-,alt5eck 7,j4 ,h4 von71 ,deuts*e ,golds*mi$e-,w]ke des #aften ,jahrhund]ts1 ,pl4 #ab4 ,an enseigne 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum--p]haps ! mo/ beautiful ( all1 & probably ! "w ( a ,flor5t9e goldsmi?--repres5ts ! head ( ,john ! ,bapti/ on a *>g]4 ,! caput ,johannis 9 disco1 a fav\rite subject 9 m$ival art bo? 9 pa9t+ & sculpture1 0 also popul> = p]sonal ornam5ts4 ,?is symbol ( ! ,precursor 0 no d\bt phylact]ic1 = ! efficacy ( 8 int]cession 0 mo/ highly e/eem$ aga9/ epilepsy & o!r disord]s4 ,! enseigne 9 "q1 contempor>y ) "o describ$ z a ,/4 ,john's head 9 a di% 9 ,h5ry ,,viii's possession 9 #aecj1 is ( gold1 "o & five-eigh?s ( an in* 9 diamet]1 & %ap$ l a circul> di%4 ,x has a cord$ edge1 & r\nd ! rim1 9 pi]c$ & rais$ lett]s1 n[ only p>tially enamell$1 are ! foll[+ words3 ,,non ,,surexsit ,,int] ,,natos ,,muli]um4 ,! sunk c5tre is cov]$ ) transluc5t ruby enamel1 & 9 ! middle is ! head ( ! sa9t 9 gold & :ite enamel4 ,! head is delicately modell$1 & su* c>e has ! arti/ display$ 9 its execution t he has %[n above ! eyebr[ ! ga% :i* ,h]odias1 accord+ to ! leg5d1#adg on receiv+ ! head f ,salome1 inflict$ on x ) a p9 f h] hair1 or ) a knife seiz$ f ! table :]e ! fea/ _h tak5 place 7,pl4 ,,xxix1 #a74 #adg ,?is leg5d is ! subject ( a /rik+ picture by ,qu5t9 ,matsys 7itself ri* 9 repres5tation ( jewell]y71 :i* =ms ! left w+ ( ! magnific5t ,deposition 7,no4 #bde71 9 ! ,antw]p ,museum4 ,a fam\s relic1 ! skull ( ! sa9t 9 ,ami5s ,ca!dral1 exhibits a hole ov] ! eyebr[4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxix ,,r5aissance ,,enseignes ,all ! f\r enseignes la/ m5tion$ are examples ( ! me?od ( execut+ ^! ornam5ts describ$ 9 ,cell9i's fam\s treatise#adh on ! goldsmi?'s art1 :]e he extols ! goldsmi? ,c>adosso z a craftsman skill$ above all o!rs 9 _! production4 ,! "w is rep\ss2 ! ,/4 ,john's head be+ also work$ into full relief by ?is process1 & !n appli$ to ! di%4 ,su* rep\ss figures 7 frequ5tly atta*$ to an indep5d5t backgr\nd =m$ ( lapis-lazuli1 agate1 or "s o!r preci\s sub/ance4 #adh ,i trattati dell' orefic]ia4 ,ed4 ,milanesi1 #aheg4 ,*apt] on ,m9ut]ia4 ,! revival ( ! art ( gem-engrav+ l$ to a l>ge dem& = cameos--!mselves m suitable = decorative purposes ?an intaglios--z p]sonal ornam5ts4 ,x 0 mu* ! cu/om ( t "t1 says ,vas>i1 writ+ ( ! gem-engrav] ,matteo del ,nass>o1 to we> cameos & o!r jewels ( simil> k9d r\nd ! neck & 9 ! cap4 ,matteo produc$ _m admirable cameos = use z enseignes = ,francis ,i & ! nobles ( 8 ,c\rt1 almo/ e "o ( :om c>ri$ on _! p]sons "s example ( 8 "w4 ,on jewels ( ?is k9d p>ts ( ! figures 7 occasionally execut$ 9 cameo1 & ! rema9d] 9 gold1 *as$ & enamell$2 b m frequ5tly figures 7 work$ entirely 9 h>d mat]ial1 & !n1 9 accordance ) ! arti/ic ta/e ( ! "t1 enclos$ 9 bord]s1 enri*$ ) enamel & jewel-"w ( ! mo/ exquisite v>iety ( design4 ,unhappy vicissitudes1 l ^? :i* ! gems at ,flor5ce h und]gone1#adi h 9 c\rse ( "t despoil$ _m a cameo ( its ri* sett+4 ,yet 9 ! great public gem collections ( ,london1 ,p>is1 ,vi5na1 ,/4 ,pet]sburg1 ,b]l91 ,muni*1 & ,dresd51 z well z 9 ! cab9ets ( private collectors1 are to be f\nd a numb] ( beautiful examples ( ! jewell]'s art at its be/ p]iod1 :i* h be5 pres]v$ on acc\nt ( ! cameos !y s]v$ to adorn4 #adi ,9 ! night ( ,decemb] #ag?1 #ahfj1 ! ,gall]ia delle ,gemme ( ! ,uffizi 0 ent]$ by ?ieves1 :o c>ri$ (f a l>ge numb] ( gems & jewels4 ,mo/ ( ! gems 7 recov]$1 b ne>ly all robb$ ( _! sett+s4 ,all ! jewels 7 lo/ 7,gotti1 ,a41 ,le ,gall]ie di ,fir5ze1 pp4 #bbi & #chh74 ,! f9e/ enseigne t displays cameo & enamell$ gold work$ toge!r 9 comb9ation is ,cell9i's exquisite ,l$a & ! ,swan1 9 ! ,mnz-und-,antik5-,kab9et at ,vi5na4 ,! head & ! torso ( ! figure ( ,l$a is 9 cameo--! latt] be+ an antique fragm5t2 ! rema9d] ( ! jewel is ( gold1 enri*$ ) enamels1 diamonds1 & rubies4 ,?is is consid]$ to be ! actual jewel execut$ by ,cell9i at ,rome ab\t #aebd = ! ,gonfaloni] ,gabriele ,ces>9i#aej 7,pl4 ,,xxix1 #e74 #aej ,k5n] 7,f471 ,came5 und ,modelle des ,,xvi4 ,jahrhund]ts1 p4 #bg 7,jahrbu* d] ,kun/hi/or4 ,sammlung5 des ,kais]hauses1 ,,iv71 #ahhf4 ,by f> ! mo/ ext5sive collection ( m\nt$ cameos is pres]v$ 9 ! ,biblio?que ,nationale at ,p>is4 ,! majority ( ^! jewels :i* foll[ ! c>t\*e =m are presumably ( ,fr5* fabrique1 ?\gh a decision z to _! precise prov5ance is "h1 z ev]1 a matt] ( consid]able difficulty4 ,among broo*es or m$allions = ! hat1 ^: purpose is cle>ly indicat$ by ! pres5ce ( a p9 or holes = atta*m5t1 ! mo/ noticeable are f\r1 numb]$ respectively #eie1 #dfe1 #eac1 & #ajjb4 ,! fir/1 be>+ ! head ( a negro 9 agate1 encircl$ ) a b& ( rubies1 has an out] bord] ( op5 scrollwork1 ( :ite1 height5$ ) r$ enamel4 ,on ea* side & bel[ is a table diamond2 & above1 a cr[n set ) triangul> facet$ diamonds 7,pl4 ,,xxix1 #d74 ,lack ( space precludes detail$ ref]5ce to ! o!r ?ree enseignes de *ap]on4 ,!y are equally attractive1 bo? on acc\nt ( _! design & ! high quality ( _! workman%ip4 ,^? unable to af=d su* co/ly ornam5ts wore hat-broo*es or m$allions 9 *eap] mat]ials1 ei!r bronze or copp]4 ,^! 7 ca/ or /amp$1 & n1 l ! m magnific5t enseignes ( gold1 execut$ by ! rep\ss process4 ,! "w ( ! e>li] m$alli/s 0 produc$ by means ( ca/+1 ! m$allions be+ aft]w>ds delicately *as$4 ,f ! beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 m$alli/s1 :o1 x may be rememb]$1 7 mo/ly jewell]s & gem-engrav]s z well1 execut$ engrav$ dies1 f :i* _! m$allions 7 /ruck in/ead ( ca/4 ,! majority ( small] m$allions s g5]ally worn z hat-badges 7 multipli$ by ! new] process ( /amp+1 & pi]c$ ) holes = atta*m5t to ! head-dress4 ,!y 7 aft]w>ds gild$ & occasionally enri*$ ) enamel4 ,fur!r in=mation ab\t ! *eap] class ( enseignes is met ) 9 ,b]n>d ,palissy's ,art de la t]re1 accord+ to :i* ! enamell]s ( ,limoges1 ow+ to competition1 _h to supply figur$ hat-badges at trois sols la d\za9e4 ,:i* badges 7 s well work$ & _! enamels s well melt$ ov] ! copp] t no picture c\ld be pretti]4 ,broo*es ( ev5 *eap] mat]ials are allud$ to by ,%akespe>e 9 ,love's ,lab\r's ,lo/1 :5 ,biron & ,duma91 ridicul+ ,hol(]nes1 :o acts z ,judas 9 ! pageant ( ! ,n9e ,wor?ies1 exclaim3-- ,biron4 ,sa9t ,george's half-*eek 9 a broo*4 ,duma94 ,ay1 & 9 a broo* ( lead4 ,biron4 ,ay1 & worn 9 ! cap ( a too?-draw]4 ,! fa%ion = enseignes la/$ until ab\t ! second qu>t] ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,dur+ ?is lat] p]iod !y 7 g5]ally worn 9 ! hats ( p]sons ( weal? & di/9ction1 9 ! =m ( a clu/] ( preci\s /ones#aea 7,pl4 ,,xxxiv1 #c72 :ile ! enseignes ) figur$ compositions appe> to h fall5 into disuse4 ,! rem>kable lett] address$ by ,james ,i to ,*>les & ,buck+ham 9 ,spa91 9 #afbc1 deals *iefly ) jewell$ hat-broo*es ( ?is k9d 7p4 #cjj74 ,hat-b&s ri*ly jewell$ 7 likewise worn2 & among ! jewels s5t to ,spa9 = ! use ( ! ,pr9ce 0 a magnific5t hat-b& g>ni%$ ) #bj diamonds set 9 buttons ( gold 9 mann] ( ,spani% "w4 ,x 0 made up ( ! foll[+ /ones1 repres5t+ e mode ( cutt+ employ$ at ! "t3 #h f\r-squ>e table diamonds1 #b six-squ>e table diamonds1 #b eight-squ>e table diamonds1 #b f\r-squ>e table diamonds cut ) facets1 #b l>ge po9t$ diamonds1 #a fair he>t diamond1 & #c triangle diamonds4#aeb #aea ,a jewell$ enseigne kn[n z ! ,/> ,jewel1 once ! prop]ty ( ,sir ,francis ,drake1 belongs to ,sir ,f4 ,full]-,eliott-,drake4 ,x is enri*$ ) transluc5t r$ enamel1 & has rubies set 9 ! rays1 ) opals & diamonds int]sp]s$ 9 ! bord]1 r\nd an engrav$ ruby 9 ! c5tre4 ,x has f\r loops beh9d = atta*+ to ! hat4 #aeb ,ar*ologia1 ,,xxi1 p4 #aeb4 ,,aigrettes ,at ! end ( ! sixte5? & ! beg9n+ ( ! sev5te5? c5tury an aigrette 0 (t5 worn 9 ! hat1 a jewell$ broo* be+ employ$ to hold x4 ,! latt] 0 sometimes 9 ! =m ( a pipe or socket into :i* ! /ems ( ! fea!rs 7 ins]t$4 ,a f9e example ( ?is class ( ornam5t1 discov]$ at ,lau+5 9 ! c(f9 ( ,otto ,h5ry1 ,c\nt ,palat9e ( ,neuburg 7d4 #afjd71 is n[ pres]v$ ) ! re/ ( ! jewels ( ! same family 9 ! ,bav>ian ,national ,museum at ,muni*4 ,x is 9 ! %ape ( a he>t op5-work$ & enri*$ ) enamel1 & has 9 ! c5tre ! lett]s ,d4,m4--initials ( 8 wife ,doro!a ,m>ia--set ) rubies4 ,beh9d is a tube = ! reception ( an aigrette ( h]ons' fea!rs 7,pl4 ,,xxx1 #c74 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxx ,,jewell$ ,,hat-,,ornam5ts1 7,,aigrettes1 ,,etc47 ,,late ,,sixte5? ,,& ,,e>ly ,,sev5te5? ,,c5turies ,?\gh nev] 9 g5]al use1 fea!rs ) sett+s m\nt$ ) preci\s /ones & atta*$ by jewell$ broo*es 7 worn long be=e ?is date2 & ,*>les ! ,bold's hat--*apeau montauban--7,lambecius1 ,bib4 ,caes4 ,v9dobon41 ,,ii1 p4 #eaf7 0 enri*$ ) fea!rs ( ?is description magnific5tly jewell$4 ,ab\t ! comm5cem5t ( ! sev5te5? c5tury ! fea!r aigrette 0 (t5 replac$ by "o ( preci\s /ones4 ,a jewel ( ?is =m is 9 ! ,waddesdon ,beque/4 ,x is #c in*es 9 height1 & =m$ ( five plumes--?ree jewell$ ) rubies & diamonds & ! o!rs enamell$ :ite--ris+ f an op5-work$ ornam5t 9 ! =m ( milit>y trophies1 enamell$ & set ) f\r diamonds4 ,a design = an aigrette ( almo/ exactly ! same /yle may be se5 among ! engrav+s = jewell]y by ! ,augsburg goldsmi? ,daniel ,mignot4 ,! engrav+s ( ,paul ,birck5hultz 7c4 #afag7 likewise conta9 designs = simil> ornam5ts4 ,^! jewell$ aigrettes 7 mu* 9 fa%ion 9 ,engl& at ! "t ( ,james ,i1 & a fea!r jewel or jewel ( gold 9 fa%ion ( a fea!r1 set ) diamonds1 is m5tion$ sev]al times 9 ! royal acc\nts4 ,! f9ely execut$ draw+s = jewell]y 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum by ,arnold ,lulls1 jewell] to ,james ,i1 include f\r col\r$ designs = jewell$ aigrettes 7,pl4 ,,xxx1 #a74 ,!y are provid$ ) %ort1 /\t p9s1 & set ) rubies1 sapphires1 em]alds1 & diamonds1 arrang$ 9 ! mo/ ta/eful mann]1 & are evid5tly int5d$ to be fur!r enri*$ ) enamel4 ,o!r jewell$ aigrettes 9 fav\r 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury 7 compos$ solely ( preci\s /ones4 ,ref]5ce w be made to ^! 9 a lat] *apt] deal+ ) ! ornam5ts ( t p]iod4 ,,hair-,,p9s ,besides ! enseigne worn occasionally by ladies1 ! jewell$ aigrettes ( m frequ5t use1 & ! gold circlets set ) preci\s /ones1 m elaborate =ms ( head-decoration 7 employ$4 ,?\gh ^! 7 (t5 entw9$ ) ropes ( pe>ls & spr9kl$ ) preci\s /ones1 !y belong r to co/ume prop]4 ,!re rema91 h[ev]1 hair-p9s1 ( :i* we obta9 a c]ta9 am\nt ( in=mation f ! inv5tories1 & f ! few actual specim5s t /ill rema94 ,hair-p9s1 l o!r articles ( ,r5aissance jewell]y1 are rem>kable = _! v>iety ( design1 p>ticul>ly z f> z ! heads ( ! p9s are conc]n$4 ,9 ! ,g]manic ,museum at ,nuremb]g are sev]al hair-p9s ) heads v>i\sly ornam5t$1 "o ( !m be+ 9 ! =m ( a small enamell$ h&4 ,! %aft ( ! p9 is (t5 flat1 op5-work$ & enamell$2 occasionally ! head is atta*$ to x by a r+ & hangs loosely f x4 ,a gold enamell$ hair-p9 is among ! jewels ( ,pr9cess ,amalia ,h$wig 7d4 #afjg71 ! cont5ts ( ^: c(f91 op5$ 9 ! eighte5? c5tury ) ^? ( ! ,c\nts ,palat9e ( ,neuburg at ,lau+51 are n[ 9 ! ,bav>ian ,national ,museum4 ,?is p9 has a small op5 rosette hang+ loosely f x set ) five diamonds & five p5d5t pe>ls4 ,contempor>y portraits %[ h[ ^! p9s 7 worn1 & 9 a portrait ( a "y woman by ,pet] ,moreelse 9 ! ,rott]dam ,gall]y1 j su* a p9 is se5 ?ru/ 9 "u ! close-fitt+ lace cap s t ! p5d5t head re/s ^u ! =ehead4 ,9 ! inv5tories ( ! "t hair-p9s are t]m$ bodk9s2 & among ,que5 ,elizabe?'s ,new ,ye>'s gifts are sev]al ( ^! ri*ly decorat$ bodk9s4 ,?us3 ,a bodkyn ( golde1 g>ni%$ at ! ende ) f\r smale diamondes & a smale rubye1 ) a cr[n ( ophales1 & a v smale p]le p5dant pe>e fa%one4 ,a bodk9 ( golde1 ) a fl[] !>at1 g>ni%$ ) smale rubyes & ophals on "o side4 ,a bodk9ne ( silv]1 ) a little o/ridg ( gold1 p5dant1 enamul$1 & two waspes ( golde lose enamul$4 ,9 ! inv5tory ( jewels ( ,anne1 ,du*ess ( ,som]set1 second wife ( ! ,protector ,som]set 7#aehg71 is a bodkynne ( golde1 ) clawes 9 ! ende1 inamyl$ blacke4 ,,e>r+s ,! fa%ion ( we>+ ! hair ov] ! e>s1 :i*1 z we h se51 completely bani%$ e>r+s f among ! ornam5ts ( ! ,middle ,ages1 greatly *eck$ _! use dur+ ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,9 ,italian pictures "o f9ds "h & !re "s traces ( !m1 b comp>$ ) ! pr(usion ( o!r ornam5ts1 _! almo/ complete abs5ce is some:at surpris+4 ,! mo/ rem>kable in/ance ( _! use is ! beautiful portrait ( a lady by ,sodoma1 or by ,p>migian9o1 9 ! ,/del ,in/itute at ,frank=t1 :]e are se5 elaborate e>r+s ( op5-"w scroll patt]n ) ?ree p5d5t pe>ls4 ,!y measure upw>ds ( two & a half in*es 9 l5g?4 ,! s-call$ ,=n>9a 9 ! ,tribuna ( ! ,uffizi we>s a small gold p5dant 9 ! =m ( an amphora atta*$ to a simple r+2 :ile 9 ! portrait by ,angelo ,bronz9o 9 ! ,pitti ,gall]y1 suppos$ to be t ( ,bianca ,cappello 7#aedh-hg71 wife ( ,francesco de' ,m$ici1 ! lobe ( ! e> is pi]c$ twice1 & ! two r+s plac$ 9 x support a p5dant =m$ ( two pe>ls m\nt$ 9 gold1 ) ?ree hang+ pe>ls bel[4 ,illu/ration3 ,e>r+1 f ,portrait ( a ,lady by ,sodoma 7,frank=t ,gall]y74 ,9 ! second half ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 ) ! alt]$ mode ( we>+ ! hair1 e>r+s1 ?\gh /ill r>e 9 pictures1 appe> to h come m into fa%ion1 & ! pr9ts ( ,woeiriot1 ,colla]t1 ,birck5hultz1 & o!r engrav]s ( ! day1 z well z a numb] ( examples 9 ! v>i\s museums1 %[ ! types !n 9 use4 ,engli% portraits ( ! fir/ half ( ! sixte5? c5tury d n exhibit ^! ornam5ts1 b :5 !y appe> lat] on1 z 9 ! num]\s portraits ( ,que5 ,elizabe?1 !y are usually 9 ! =m ( pe>-%ap$ pe>l drops4 ,m>y ,que5 ( ,scots appe>s to h g5]ally worn e>r+s1 judg+ by ! inv5tory ( h] jewels 9 #aefa1aec :i* conta9s a v l>ge numb]1 includ+ ! foll[+3 ,deux p5dans doreille faictz en facon de croix de ,hi]usalem esmaillez de blanc--,deux petis p5dans doreille g>niz de deux petittes p]les de facon de d\bles ames--,deux petis p5dans doreille dor emplis de s5teure4 #aec ,inu5taires de la ,royne ,descosse ,d\airi]e de ,france 7publi%$ by ! ,bannatyne ,club71 p4 #hg4 ,! use ( e>r+s1 curi\sly en\gh1 0 n conf9$ to wom51 & we f9d m51 ev5 ! s$ate/1 we>+ !m4 ,wom51 says ,philip ,/ubbes 9 8 ,anatomie ( ,abuses 7#aehc71 are s f> bewit*$ z !y are n a%am$ to make holes 9 _! e>s1 :]eat !y hang r+s1 & o!r jewels ( gold & preci\s /ones2 b ?is1 he adds1 is n s mu* frequ5t$ among wom5 z among m54 ,?is cu/om appe>s to h orig9at$ 9 ,spa91 :]e ! use ( e>r+s 0 pretty g5]al among bo? sexes1 & z ! result ( ,spani% influ5ce 0 introduc$ into ,france at ! luxuri\s ,c\rt ( ,h5ry ,,iii4 ,! fa%ion subsequ5tly came to ,engl&1 :]e x 0 g5]ally affect$ by ! c\rti]s ( ,elizabe? & ,james ,i1 z is cle> f contempor>y male portraits1 :]e an e>r+ is worn1 z a rule1 9 "o e> only4 ,rob]t ,c>r1 ,e>l ( ,som]set1 is se5 9 ! ,national ,portrait ,gall]y we>+ a ruby e>r+2 :ile ! ,duke ( ,buck+ham 0 p>ticul>ly noticeable = ! spl5d\r ( 8 diamond e>r+s4 ,comm5t+ on ! deg5]acy ( 8 contempor>ies1 ,hol9%$ 9 8 ,*ronicle 7#aegg7 obs]ves3 ,"s lu/y c\rti]s also & g5tlem5 ( c\rage d we> ei!r r+s ( gold1 /ones1 or pe>l 9 _! e>s1 :]eby !y imag9e ! workman%ip ( ,god to be n a little am5d$4 ,9 a spl5d\r-lov+ "t "o might expect to f9d su* ornam5ts among c\rti]s1 b t e>r+s 7 worn also by m5 ( action & m5 ( p>ts is evid5t f ! portraits ( ,%akespe>e1 ,sir ,walt] ,raleigh1 & ! ,e>l ( ,s\?ampton4 ,! use ( e>r+s among m5 cont9u$ to ! "t ( ,*>les ,i1 & 9 ,l5ton's ,"y ,gallant's ,:irligigg 7#afbi7 a fop is describ$ )-- ,haire's curl'd1 e>es pe>l'd1 ) ,bri/[s#aed brave & bright1 ,b\ght = true ,diamonds 9 8 false sight4 #aed ,cry/al qu>tz f\nd 9 ! ,clifton lime/one1 & kn[n z ,bri/ol diamonds4 ,k+ ,*>les himself foll[$ ! g5]al fa%ion & hung a l>ge pe>l 9 8 left e>4 ,?is he wore ev5 on ! scaffold1 :]e he took x f 8 e> & gave x to a fai?ful foll[]4 ,x is /ill pres]v$1 & is n[ own$ by ! ,duke ( ,portl&4 ,x is pe>-%ap$1 ab\t five-eigh?s ( an in* long1 & m\nt$ ) a gold top1 & a hook to pass ?r\gh ! e>4 ,e>r+s1 toge!r ) simil> luxuries1 vani%$ at ! "t ( ! ,protectorate2 m5 are n se5 we>+ !m aft] ! ,re/oration1 ?\gh !y are /ill 9 use among c]ta9 classes on acc\nt ( _! suppos$ value z pres]vatives aga9/ affections ( ! eyes4 ,,*apt] ,,xxvi ,,r5aissance ,,necklaces1 ,,neck-,,*a9s1 ,,& ,,coll>s ,necklaces or neck-*a9s worn by bo? sexes are a prom95t feature 9 ,r5aissance jewell]y4 ,j z 9 primitive times ! neck 0 encircl$ by a torque1 s at ?is lat] p]iod x 0 ! cu/om to c>ry heavy *a9s ( pure gold1 :i* 7 worn 9 diff]5t ways1 ei!r r\nd ! ?roat1 or else ^u ! %\ld]s & l[ d[n ov] ! brea/4 ,sometimes "o long *a9 0 w\nd sev]al times r\nd ! neck s t ! upp]mo/ r[ closely encircl$ ! ?roat4 ,n satisfi$ ) "o1 wom5 9 p>ticul> occasionally wore z _m z half a doz5 *a9s ( diff]5t design cov]+ ! body f neck to wai/4 ,f ! fifte5? until ! middle ( ! sev5te5? c5tury neck-*a9s 7 a frequ5t adjunct to male co/ume1 & allusion is made to !m 9 ,b>clay's ,%ip ( ,fools 7pr9t$ by ,pynson 9 #aejh73-- ,"s !yr neckes *>g$ ) col]s1 & *aynes ,z gold5 )t!s3 !yr fyng]s ful ( rynges3 ,!yr neckes nak$3 almo/e vnto ! raynes2 ,!yr sleues blas+e lyke to a ,cranys wynges4 ,m5's necklaces1 ap>t f ! *a9s & coll>s ( di/9ction belong+ to p>ticul> ord]s or guilds1 seem to h be5 mo/ly ( pure gold1 & 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii ! fa%ion ( we>+ !m 0 c>ri$ to a mo/ unreasonable excess4 ,hall speaks ( ! nombre ( *aynes ( golde & baud]ickes bo? massy & grate worn at ! ,field ( ! ,clo? ( ,gold1 & ( ! m>veil\s treasor ( golde ?us display$4 ,ref]5ces to ! extraord9>y dim5sions ( ^! *a9s %[ t !y mu/ h be5 extremely inconv5i5t to we>4 ,h5ry ,,viii's ,book ( ,paym5ts records ! paym5t 9 #aeaa ( #aii to ! goldsmi? ,roy = a *a9 ( gold weigh+ no less ?an #ih ounces4 ,?is is actually surpass$ 9 ,elizabe?'s "t1 :5 ,h] ,maje/y receiv$ z a ,new ,ye>'s gift 9 #aehh "o *e9e ( golde1 we+ "o hundr$ ?reescore & "o ounce4 ,que5 ,m>y _h a heavy *a9 ( gold made by h] jewell]1 ,rob]t ,raynes1 out ( ! angels receiv$ z ,new ,ye>'s gifts2#aee & ! curi\s cu/om ( conv]t+ bullion into *a9s is fur!r exemplifi$ 9 ! case ( ,sir ,?omas ,gre%am1 ! bulk ( ^: weal? on 8 dea? 9 #aegi 0 f\nd to consi/ ( gold *a9s4 #aee ,ni*ols 7,j471 ,illu/rations ( ! mann]s & exp5ses ( anci5t times 9 ,engl&1 ,pt4 ,,iii1 p4 #bf4 ,pictures )\t numb] exhibit ^! pond]\s neck-ornam5ts1 :ile contempor>y wills teem ) ref]5ces to !m4 ,t !y 7 v mu* worn 9 ,%akespe>e's "t w\ld be app>5t _h we no o!r au?ority ?an 8 frequ5t allusion to !m1 z = in/ance 9 ! ,com$y ( ,errors1 :]e !re is a great ado ab\t a *a94 ,inde$1 no g5tleman 0 consid]$ prop]ly equipp$ unless he _h 8 *a9 ( gold ^u 8 %\ld]s4 ,) reg>d to _! =m1 x seems t *a9s :i* appe> z ?\gh made ( plait$ wire1 & 7 kn[n 9 m$ival times1 rema9$ /ill 9 use4 ,b ! majority ( *a9s are compos$ ( r\nd$ l9ks ( v>i\s designs4 ,!y are usually ( great l5g?1 s z to encircle ! neck & %\ld]s sev]al times4 ,extraord9>ily common ?\gh su* *a9s mu/ h be51 b few examples h surviv$1 & ! reason = ?is mu/ be t1 compos$ ( pure metal1 !y w5t direct to ! melt+-pot z soon z !y became unfa%ionable4 ,yet ow+ to peculi> circum/ances "s /ill exi/4 ,9 ! ,g]manic ,museum at ,nuremb]g are pres]v$ sev]al examples dat+ f ! fir/ qu>t] ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,^! =m]ly belong$ to ! ,holtz5dorff family1 & 7 buri$ dur+ ! ,?irty ,ye>s' ,w>1 at ,p9n[ 9 ,nor? ,g]many1 :]e !y 7 une>!d a few ye>s ago4#aef ,two gold *a9s dat+ f ab\t ! middle ( ! same c5tury are pres]v$ 9 ! ,a%molean ,museum4 ,!y 7 pres5t$ to ,elias ,a%mole3 ! "o #bi in*es long1 =m$ ( ?irty-two op5-"w quatrefoil l9ks1 by ,*ri/ian ,v1 ,k+ ( ,d5m>k1 & ! o!r1 ( circul> l9ks1 by ! ,elector ( ,br&5burg 9 #afhj1 on ! publication ( ! ,hi/ory ( ! ,ord] ( ! ,g>t]4 ,! cu/om ( pres5t+ *a9s ( gold 0 z common !n1 x is to be obs]v$1 z 9 ! mo/ anci5t times4 ,john ,williams1 jewell] ( ,james ,i1 0 paid sums am\nt+ to upw>ds ( #ac1jjj = *a9s ( gold giv5 by ! ,k+ to div]s ambassadors4 #aef ,nuremb]g3 ,g]manis*es ,museum4 ,mitteilung51 #ahid1 p4 #gc4 ,^! heavy l9k$ or twi/$ *a9s 7 worn pr9cipally by m51 b n exclusively1 z is cle> f num]\s e>ly portraits--^?1 = in/ance1 by ! ,g]man pa9t]s ,b]n>d ,/rigel & ,lucas ,crana*1 ^: ladies 7z 9 ! portrait by ,crana* 9 ! ,national ,gall]y7 almo/ inv>iably h massive gold *a9s4 ,?\gh g5]ally compos$ ( metal r+s1 m5's *a9s1 especially ^? worn by m5 ( high rank1 7 occasionally compos$ ( cyl9d]s or plaques l9k$ toge!r & enri*$ ) enamel & preci\s /ones4 ,su* jewell$ coll>s 71 h[ev]1 *iefly res]v$ = wom54 ,h5ry ,,viii's num]\s portraits g5]ally %[ him adorn$ ) magnific5t coll>s set ) pe>ls & preci\s /ones2 & x is record$ t on ! occasion ( 8 att5d+ ,/4 ,paul's at ! proclamation ( peace 9 #aeae he wore a coll> ?ickly /udd$ ) ! f9e/ c>buncles1 z l>ge z walnuts4 ,among/ ! num]\s coll>s m5tion$ 9 8 inv5tory ( #aebf is a c>kayne ( he>ts1 ) a h& at ea* end1 hold+ a device ( a goodly balasse g>ni%$ ) five pe>ls & ?ree diamonds1 & a hang+ pe>l4#aeg #aeg ,lett]s & ,pap]s1 ,,iv1 ,no4 #aijg4 ,! jewell$ neck-*a9 worn by wom51 & compos$ ( /r+s ( preci\s /ones1 ropes ( pe>ls1 or ( jewell$ & enamell$ sections1 is (t5 repres5t$ 9 pictures z be+ ga!r$ 9 a fe/oon at ! brea/ & hang+ 9 loops at ea* side z l[ z ! wai/4 ,a *a9 ( gold ( ?is "*--"o among/ _m simil> pres5t$ by ! ,e>l ( ,leice/] to ,que5 ,elizabe?--0 made l a pair ( beads1 conta9+ eight long pieces1 g>ni%$ ) small diamonds1 & f\r score & "o small] pieces1 fully g>ni%$ ) l diamonds4 ,besides ! *a9s or coll>s worn r\nd ! neck & ^u ! %\ld]s1 !re 7 ! actual necklets worn r\nd ! ?roat1 & (t5 only di/+ui%able f ! coll> prop] by _! l5g? 7,pl4 ,,xxxi1 #a74 ,^! necklaces1 or c>canets1 :i* almo/ inv>iably _h z a c5tral ornam5t an elaborate p5d5t jewel1 are figur$ 9 su* pr(usion 9 sixte5?-c5tury portraits1 p>ticul>ly by ! pa9t]s ( ! ,g]man s*ool1 t x is ne$less to m5tion p>ticul> examples4 ,9 ,h5ry ,,viii's "t !y 7 worn 9 great abundance4 ,! ,k+ load$ 8 wives ) sumptu\s jewels1 & encircl$ _! ?roats--on :i* ! axe 0 ev5tually to fall--) jewell$ & enamell$ necklaces4 ,! c>kyonetts ( ,que5 ,elizabe?1 ( :i* %e receiv$ an imm5se numb]1 7 equally magnific5t4 ,a ,new ,ye>'s gift 9 #aehg 0 a c>kyonett ( golde1 l halfe moones1 g>ni%$ ) sp>cks ( rubyes & diamonds p5dant1 & "o r[e ( se$e p]les4#aeh #aeh ,ni*ols1 ,progresses ( ,que5 ,elizabe?1 ,,ii1 p4 #dih4 ,! =ms ( ! necklaces & jewell$ neck-*a9s diff] s mu* t ! read] mu/ be ref]r$ to ! v>i\s collections ( ?is c\ntry & ! ,cont95t4 ,occasionally necklaces ( *a9 =mation or ( plait$ wire are set ) /ones1 b ( m frequ5t occurr5ce are ^? :]e e s+le l9k %[s a special developm5t ( a bij\ k9d4 ,9 ! ,r5aissance necklace e l9k is = ! mo/ "p treat$ z a symmetrical composition1 ei!r c>t\*e-%ap$ or ( p5d5t =m4 ,h5ce x happ5s t 9 collections1 z ,h]r ,lu?m] sugge/s1#aei s+le l9ks ( ?is k9d may occasionally be f\nd incorrectly classifi$ "u ! title ( p5dants4 ,^? 9 exi/5ce display a v>iety ( v rem>kable =mations1 = seldom are ! l9ks exactly alike3 g5]ally a l>ge & a small motive are arrang$ alt]nately--a l>g] & m ri*ly decorat$ c5tral l9k be+ ins]t$ into ! middle ( ! *a9 = ! purpose ( support+ or introduc+ ! ri* p5d5t jewel4 ,to ?is type belongs "o ( ! mo/ notewor?y necklaces 9 exi/5ce1 :i* n[ =ms "p ( ! ,adolphe ,ro?s*ild ,beque/ 9 ! ,l\vre4 ,x is ( gold set ) pe>ls & preci\s /ones1 & is compos$ ( tw5ty-two op5-"w l9ks & a p5dant1 all enamell$ 9 relief1 ! elev5 l>g] l9ks & ! p5dant conta9+ ea* 9 sep>ate compositions a /ory f ! hi/ory ( ! ,passion4 ,! gr\ps ( figures are ( wond]ful execution1 & 9 spite ( _! m9ute proportions are s+ul>ly expressive1 be+ work$ 9 a delicate & at ! same "t mo/ resolute mann]4 ,:5 exhibit$ by ! ,c\ntess ( ,m\nt ,*>les at ! ,jewell]y ,exhibition at ,s\? ,k5s+ton 9 #ahgb1 ! jewel 0 ?us ref]r$ to3 ,?is sup]b specim5 ( ,italian ,c9quec5to "w has be5 attribut$ to ,b5v5uto ,cell9i1 & is at lea/ z good z any?+ extant kn[n to be by 8 h&4 ,?is cauti\s obs]vation ne$ n disconc]t "o2 = ! jewel is too closely alli$ 9 /yle & workman%ip to ! jewell]y ( ,s\? ,g]many ( ! second half ( ! sixte5? c5tury to p]mit ( su* attribution4 ,nev]!less x mu/ c]ta9ly be reckon$ among ! mo/ elaborate examples ( ,c9quec5to jewell]y t h come d[n to u4 #aei ,lu?m]1 ,gold und ,silb]1 p4 #ajj4 ,! great display ( necklaces & long neck-*a9s ceas$ ab\t ! middle ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,9 common ) o!r simil> objects !y entirely disappe>$ 9 ,engl& dur+ ! ,protectorate2 nor 7 !y ev] worn aga9 9 any great] pr(usion ?an !y are at ! pres5t day4 ,illu/ration3 ,design = a p5dant by ,jacques ,&r\et ,duc]ceau4 ,,*apt] ,,xxvii ,,r5aissance ,,neck-,,p5dants ,! necklaces1 coll>s1 or neck-*a9s :i* h j be5 spok5 ( z noticeable features 9 ,r5aissance decoration s]v$ ! purpose ( susp5d+ a species ( ornam5t ev5 m peculi>ly *>act]i/ic ( ! p]iod--! p5dant4 ,?is 0 hung ei!r to ! necklet1 or to ! neck-*a9 t fell ^u ! brea/4 ,among all classes ( ,r5aissance jewell]y1 & inde$ ( ! jewell]y ( all "t1 ?is neck-p5dant c]ta9ly des]ves ! fir/ place1 n only on acc\nt ( ! pr$om9at+ "p x play$ among ! o!r ornam5ts ( ! p]iod1 b also on acc\nt ( ! great numb] ( examples we possess ( x1 & ! v>iety ( =ms :i* x exhibits4 ,?r\gh\t ! ,middle ,ages almo/ e p5dant worn at ! neck 7p5t--col7 bore a religi\s signification1 b t[>ds ! close ( ! fifte5? or ! beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? c5tury ! p5dant seems to h lo/ mu* ( its religi\s "*1 & became ma9ly an object ( decoration4 ,t ev5 9 ! sixte5? c5tury x did n entirely s]ve a decorative purpose is %[n by a numb] ( portraits dat+ f ! fir/ half ( ! c5tury1 :]e ! t]m9ation ( ! neck-*a9 is hidd5 b5ea? a squ>e-cut bodice4 ,:at ! object 0 :i* 0 ?us conceal$ is unc]ta94 ,x 0 v possibly a reliqu>y1 or p]haps a cross2 = crosses =m a v l>ge proportion ( ,r5aissance p5dants exi/+ at ! pres5t day4 ,ap>t f crosses1 ! majority ( ,r5aissance p5dants repres5t a figur$ subject ( "s description1 :ile compositions entirely ( preci\s /ones appe> to be less common--at lea/ 9 ! second half ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 to :i* ! great] numb] ( ^! jewels belong4 ,holbe9's designs = p5dants1 on ! o!r h&1 7 compos$1 x may be rememb]$1 ma9ly ( preci\s /ones4 ,f ?is we may inf] t jewels hav+ z a c5tral ornam5t a s+le preci\s /one1 or a gem surr\nd$ by /ones1 & a regul> cont\r1 g5]ally ant$ate ^? ) figur$ compositions )9 unev5 or brok5 bord]s4 ,?is ( c\rse applies to jewels :i* exhibit di/9ctly a back & front1 & n to ^? =m$ ( a s+le figure 9 ! r\nd1 :i* are (t5 difficult to date1 ?\gh extant examples belong mo/ly to ! latt] half ( ! c5tury4 ,x is to be notic$ t ! majority ( p5dants are susp5d$ by two1 or sometimes ?ree1 ri*ly jewell$ & enamell$ *a9s1 connect$ above by a c>t\*e simil>ly enri*$4 ,:ile sixte5?-c5tury p5dants display on _! front ! art ( ! goldsmi?-enamell] 9 its full p]fection1 ! rev]se likewise exhibits arti/ic "w 9 engrav+ z well z enamell+4 ,x is likewise wor?y ( rem>k t ,r5aissance p5dants are almo/ inv>iably enri*$ ) p5d5t pe>ls4 ,( ! imm5se numb] ( subjects repres5t$ on ^! jewels we h already spok5 9 ! introduction to ! jewell]y ( ! p]iod4 ,= p5dants =m$ ( s+le figures execut$ 9 ! r\nd1 ! :ole ( anci5t or m$ival imag]y--) its figures ( ,pan or ( wood-nymphs1 c5taurs1 tritons1 or m]m52 n]eids1 m]maids or sir5s2 hippocamps1 unicorns1 dragons1 & o!r creatures1 real z well z fabul\s1 ( ! e>?1 air1 or sea--0 reviv$1 or else trans=m$ to suit ! fancy ( ! ,r5aissance jewell]4 ,! =mation ( _m ( ^! 0 frequ5tly sugge/$ by a mon/] pe>l1 unsuitable = ord9>y jewell]y on acc\nt ( its b>oque or mis%ap5 =m1 introduc$ 9 a wond]fully skilful mann] into ! body or brea/ ( a figure1 :i* 0 complet$ 9 enamell$ goldwork4 ,9 su* adaptations ! ,g]man jewell]s1 :o seem to h revell$ 9 te*nical difficulties1 display$ extraord9>y +5uity4 ,among gr\ps ( sev]al figures employ$ z subjects = repres5tation1 g5]ally )9 a frame ( ornam5tal design1 sc5es f anci5t my?ology pr$om9ate1 ! ,judgm5t ( ,p>is be+ a v fav\rite !me4 ,b ,*ri/ian allegories are n exclud$3 besides ! frequ5t repres5tation ( ,*>ity ) h] two *ildr5 or h] symbol ! pelican1 we f9d ,fai?1 ,hope1 & ,=titude2 ,/4 ,george & ! ,dragon or ,/4 ,mi*ael are also frequ5tly met )2 :ile among/ scriptural subjects ( ! ,old & ,new ,te/am5ts or ! ,apocrypha1 ! ,annunciation is p]haps ! mo/ popul>4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxi ,,g]man ,,& ,,fr5* ,,r5aissance ,,p5dants ,! majority ( ! p5dants ( ?is class %[ a ri* & unev5 outl9e brok5 by t5drils (t5 enri*$ ) small dots ( enamel1 by project+ w+s ( birds or amor9i1 by /rapwork & o!r ornam5t4 ,occasionally a ,*>ity or an ,annunciation is plac$ 9 an ar*itectural ni*e1 b ! ar*itectural device is n infrequ5tly limit$ to a horizontal beam =m$ ( a r[ ( table-cut /ones & two obelisks ( ! same con/ruction =m+ ! ends to ! "r & left 7,pl4 ,,xxxiii1 #a74 ,x is only 9 ! small] examples ( p5dants t we f9d ! design ly+ flat on a plane4 ,g5]ally ! jewel is fa%ion$ 9 relief by means ( two1 ?ree1 or ev5 f\r sup]impos$ planes =m$ ( op5-"w plates arrang$ 9 su* a mann] t ! l[] p>ts are se5 ?r\gh op5+s 9 ! upp]4 ,^! are fa/5$ toge!r by rivets sometimes ?ree-eigh?s ( an in* long1 & ! upp] field ( ! jewel1 on :i* are gr\ps ( enamell$ figures1 is set ) /ones 9 v l>ge pyramidal collets1 s t ! :ole composition is increas$ to a consid]able height4 ,collections conta9 frequ5t examples ( ?is class ( p5dant 7,pl4 ,,xxxii74 ,"o ( ! mo/ elaborate1 ( ,augsburg "w dat+ f ! end ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 is 9 ! ,adolphe ,ro?s*ild ,beque/ 9 ! ,l\vre4 ,9 ! c5tre is an enamell$ gr\p repres5t+ ! ,annunciation1 )9 an ar*itectural framework set ) diamonds1 rubies1 & p5d5t pe>ls4 ,! jewel1 :i* is susp5d$ by triple *a9s f an enamell$ c>t\*e1 measures 9 its total l5g? #e in*es4 ,x 0 =m]ly 9 ! ,debruge-,dumnil ,collection4 ,simil>ly l>ge op5-"w p5dants1 enri*$ ) enamels1 preci\s /ones1 & p5d5t pe>ls1 are %[n atta*$ by a ribbon to ! left brea/ 9 ?ree portraits dat$ #afji1 repres5t+ ! ,pr9cesses ,elizabe?1 ,h$wig1 & ,doro!a ( ,brunswick1 ,nos4 #deh1 #dfj1 & #dfa 9 ! ,hampton ,c\rt ,gall]y4 ,( p5dants conta9+ gr\ps ( small enamell$ figures !re seems to h be5 an enorm\s production 9 ,s\!rn ,g]many t[>ds ! close ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 p>ticul>ly 9 ! work%ops ( ,muni* & ,augsburg4 ,^! pieces1 :i* are v *>m+1 are greatly s\ght aft] by collectors1 & are among ! mo/ highly priz$ ( all objects ( virtu at ! pres5t day4 ,_! workman%ip is extraord9>ily elaborate2 ?\gh n a few ( !m1 x mu/ be confess$1 are ov]load$ ) detail1 & some:at unsatisfactory 9 composition4 ,) ! revival ( ! glyptic art1 cameos beg9 to play a prom95t "p 9 jewell]y4 ,a consid]able numb] ( cameos 9 ! great gem collections1 set 9 exquisite jewell$ & enamell$ m\nts1 are provid$ ) loops = use z p5dants4#afj ,num]\s gems1 spl5didly m\nt$ z p5dants1 are to be f\nd 9 ! ,biblio?que ,nationale at ,p>is 7,pl4 ,,xxxi1 #f72 & 9 ! ,briti% ,museum are a few f9e examples f ! ,c>lisle ,collection4 ,( extant p5dants hav+ z a c5tre-piece a figur$ subject1 ei!r cut 9 cameo or ( rep\ss "w enamell$1 ! majority %[ unev5 cont\rs1 g5]ally ( brok5 /rapwork1 aft] ! mann] ( ! ,g]man ornam5ti/s1 ?\gh n a few ( ^? ( oval %ape h frames ) smoo? outl9es4 ,_m1 on ! o!r h&1 foll[ ! c>t\*e design 9 =m ( %ields ) upturn$ edges4 ,^! figure *iefly 9 ! designs ( ! ,fr5* matres ornemani/es1 ,&r\et ,duc]ceau & ,woeiriot4 ,! d\bl+ ( ! frame *>act]i/ic ( ! ,fr5* c>t\*es1 & ! brok5 cont\rs ( ! ,g]man p5dants1 :i* all[ ( a v>iety ( int]tw9+s & trav]s+s1 (f] a fav\rite field = ! display ( ! jewell]'s art 9 ! application ( poly*rome enamels4 #afj ,dav5port1 ,cameos1 #aijj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxii ,,enamell$ ,,gold ,,p5dants ,,set ,,) ,,pe>ls ,,& ,,preci\s ,,/ones ,,g]man1 ,,ab\t #afjj 7,,! ,,prop]ty ,,( ,,lady ,,ro?s*ild7 ,! nef1 or model ( a %ip1 0 ( frequ5t use z an article ( table plate4 ,p5d5t jewels likewise take ! =m ( a small %ip completely equipp$1#afa susp5d$ by *a9s1 & hung ) pe>ls4 ,9 ?is /yle ( jewel1 :i* is p]haps ( ,v5etian orig91 ! cresc5t-%ap$ c>avel or c>vel1 op5 & )\t a deck1 b built up high at ! pr[ & /]n1 ) =eca/le & cab91 & l>ge %ip's lant]n1 is (t5 adh]$ to2 b ! design is n infrequ5tly some:at conv5tional4 ,_m ( ! be/-kn[n collections conta9 examples ( ^! nef or navette p5dants4 ,_! probable ,adriatic orig9 is ev9c$ by ! sev]al specim5s exhibit$1 toge!r ) jewels f ! ,greek ,isl&s1 9 ! ,franks ,beque/ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum conta9s a *oice example f ! ,spitz] ,collection4 ,x c>ries ?ree ma/s1 five sails1 a lant]n1 & a high poop & /]n4 ,! rigg+ is ( twi/$ gold wire1 & ! hull cov]$ ) an imbricat$ patt]n 9 transluc5t blue1 r$1 & gre51 & opaque :ite enamels4 ,a v>iety to ?is =m is pres5t$ by a rem>kable piece 9 ! museum at ,vi5na4 ,x repres5ts a b>que mann$ by two r[]s2 :ile at ! pr[ & /]n are m&ol9e play]s :o ent]ta9 two pass5g]s seat$ b5ea? ! framework awn+ su* z 0 9 use on ! gondolas ( ! "t4 ,! :ole is enri*$ ) poly*rome enamels4 ,! figures are 9 full relief1 & ! boat1 hung by ?ree *a9s1 is fur!r set ) diamonds & rubies4 ,we may e/imate ! extraord9>y value atta*$ to su* objects at ! pres5t day by ! fact t a jewel v simil> to ?is la/ 0 sold at ,messrs4 ,*ri/ie's ,rooms 9 ! autumn ( #aijc = no less a sum ?an #f1ejj4 ,! hull ( ?is jewel is id5tical ) t at ,vi5na1 b figures ( ,antony & ,cleopatra1 f9ely execut$1 ?\gh some:at out ( proportion to ! re/1 "h take ! place ( ! c\ple b5ea? ! awn+2 :ile in/ead ( be+ hung by *a9s 7z is suitable to ?is =m ( p5dant7 ! jewel is back$ by a composition ( scroll- & /rap-"w1 *>act]i/ic ( ,g]man & ,flemi% "w ( ! second half ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,a comp>ison ) contempor>y designs cle>ly associates ^! two objects ) ! well-kn[n set ( engrav+s = p5d5t jewels publi%$ by ,hans ,colla]t at ,antw]p 9 #aeha 7,pl4 ,,xxxiii74 ,ano!r v]sion ( ?is jewel is 9 ! ,bav>ian ,national ,museum1 ,muni*4 ,! figures are ! same z on ! ,vi5na jewel1 b ! vessel is 9 ! =m ( a fi%4 #afa ,cf4 ,une petite nef d'or1 e/(fe de t\t son app>eil 7,inv5t4 ( ,m>y1 dau4 ( ,*>les ! ,bold ( ,burgundy1 & wife ( ,maximilian ,i4 ,lille3 ,ar*ives du ,nord1 ,,viii1 p4 #aga47 ,j z ! great gem cab9ets pres]ve p5dants ^: jewel-"w is conf9$ to ri*ly decorat$ frames1 s !re exi/ a consid]able numb] ( m\nt$ m$als1 :i* mu/ be look$ = 9 collections ( co9s & m$als1 among :i* !y are class$ on acc\nt ( ! presum$ prepond]at+ importance ( _! c5tre-pieces4 ,^! p5d5t gold m$als 7,gnad5m$aill571 ) beautiful jewell$ & enamell$ m\nts1 occasionally hung ) pe>ls & susp5d$ by *a9s f ornate c>t\*es1 7 mu* 9 fav\r 9 ,g]many 9 ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies1 & 7 giv5 by noble p]sonages1 ^: portraits 7 figur$ on !m1 z pres5ts & z m>ks ( special di/9ction4 ,_m examples1 z is to be expect$1 are to be f\nd 9 ! co9 cab9ets ( ,muni* & ,b]l92 :ile o!rs are pres]v$ 9 ! m important public & private collections ( jewell]y4 ,^! m$allions1 z 0 natural1 7 frequ5tly made 9 duplicate1 & ! ,waddesdon ,beque/1 & ! ,salt+ & ,pi]pont ,morgan collections ea* conta9 a jewel1 dat$ #afab1 ( ,maximilian1 ,ar*duke ( ,au/ria 7#aeeh-afbj71 9 an op5-work$ bord] ( enamell$ scrolls int]rupt$ by f\r %ields ( arms1 & susp5d$ by ?ree *a9s1 unit$ above by an oval escut*eon ) ! arms ( ,au/ria on "o side & ! cross ( ! ,teutonic ord] on ! o!r4 ,! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum has an enamel-m\nt$ m$al ( ,alb]t ,,vi1 ,duke ( ,bav>ia 7#aehd-afff71 a facsimile ( :i*1 hung ) a s+le in/ead ( trilob$ pe>l1 is 9 ! ,muni* cab9et4 ,_m ( ! motives connect$ ) p5dants d5ote associations :i* appe> inexplicable1 until x is und]/ood t no small numb] ( !m1 l ! p5d5t m$als1 7 gifts f pr9ces1 ! s-call$ faveurs grant$ 9 recognition ( s]vices r5d]$4 ,among ! pr9cely gifts we mu/ class t l>ge gr\p ( p5dants :i* consi/ only ( "o lett] or a monogram 9 an ornam5tal frame or 9 op5-"w1 sometimes compos$ entirely ( preci\s /ones4 ,( ^! ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum possesses a f9e e>ly example 9 =m ( a squ>e tablet ( gold set ) pe>ls1 be>+ on "o side two enamell$ %ields ( arms1 & on ! o!r ! initials ,,da1 9 a frame =m$ ( bracket-%ap$ t]m9al figures & human masks4 ,x is ( ,g]man "w ( ab\t ! ye> #aecj 7,pl4 ,,xxxi1 #c74 ,di/9ct f ^! pr9cely monograms are ^? employ$ = religi\s purposes1 p>ticul>ly ! monograms ( ,*ri/ & ! ,virg94 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxiii ,,p5d5t ,,jewels ,,by ,,hans ,,colla]t1 ,,etc4 ,probably ! f9e/ example ( ! num]\s p5dants 9 ! =m ( a s+le figure1 p>ticul>ly ( ^? ^: =mation is sugge/$ by a l>ge b>oque pe>l1 is ! triton or m]man jewel 9 ! possession ( ,"l ,clanric>de4 ,! figure1 ^: body is made ( a s+le pe>l1 ) head & arms ( :ite enamel & tail ( brilliant yell[1 gre51 & blue1 wields a jaw-bone 9 ! "r h&1 & an enamell$ satyr's mask z a %ield 9 ! left4 ,?is magnific5t ,italian jewel 0 br\ght f ,india by ,"l ,cann+4 ,p5dants ( some:at simil> "*1 (t5 repres5t+ a m]maid hold+ a comb 9 "o h& & a mirror 9 ! o!r1 are to be f\nd 9 ! ,vi5na1 ,w9dsor1 ,waddesdon1 & o!r collections4 ,!y are almo/ inv>iably ( ,g]man workman%ip4 ,among/ _m o!r jewels ( simil> =mation ! mo/ important is a p5dant 9 ! =m ( a dragon 9 ! ,gal]ie d',apollon ( ! ,l\vre4 ,! modell+ & g5]al =m ( ?is jewel is v f9e1 & its enamel-"w1 *iefly ( :ite & light blue1 9 ! design ( circles & *evrons1 especially on ! w+s1 is mo/ admirable4 ,x is ,spani% "w ( ! highe/ quality1 & 0 bequea!d by ,b>on ,davilli]1 :o procur$ x 9 ,spa9 7,frontispiece74 ,( o!r animal =ms are ^? ( a lion1 a drom$>y1 a dog 7t]m$ a talbot7 7,pl4 ,,xxxiv1 #b71 & a fi%2 birds include1 besides a dove 7! symbol ( ! ,holy ,gho/71 eagles1 cocks1 p>rots1 & pelicans4 ,f9e examples ( ! two latt] are at ,s\? ,k5s+ton f ! ,treasury at ,s>agossa3 "o is m\nt$ ) a l>ge hyac9? 9 front#afb 7,pl4 ,,xxxiv1 #a71 ! o!r is repres5t$ pluck+ at a blood-r$ c>buncle set 9 h] brea/4 #afb ,cf4 ,a juell ( golde1 :]e9 is a p>ret hang+ 7,new ,ye>'s gifts to ,que5 ,elizabe?1 #aegh-i74 ,among miscellane\s p5dants worn 9 ,r5aissance times atta*$ to ! neck-*a9 m5tion mu/ be made ( :i/les4 ,^! 7l ! bo'sons pipe ( to-day7 7 =m$1 z has be5 %[n 7p4 #aij71 ( a pipe or tube1 sometimes 9 ! =m ( a pi/ol1 ?r\gh :i* ! air is c>ri$ into a hole 9 a ball1 ?us produc+ ! s\nd4 ,:i/les ( ?is k9d 7 design$ by ,dr] & ,brosam]1 & !y are %[n susp5d$ at ! neck 9 ! engrav$ portraits ( ,william1 ,duke ( ,juli]s1 & ( ,john ( ,leyd5 by ,aldegrev]1 9 ! portrait ( a man by ,lucis ,crana* ! eld] 7#adgb-aeec7 9 ! ,l\vre1 & 9 portraits ( ! ,m>grave ,philib]t ( ,bad5 7#aedi7 by ,hans ,s*pf] ! eld] at ,muni* & ,nuremb]g4 ,silv] :i/les ( some:at simil> con/ruction1 ornam5t$ ) a m]maid or sir51 or ) a lion or sea-horse1 7 frequ5tly worn also z *>ms 9 ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies4 ,!y are usually hung ) little bells1 possibly = ! purpose ( av]t+ ! evil eye--! mal'oc*io or jettatura x is t]m$ 9 ,italy4 ,examples are pres]v$ 9 ! ,cluny1 ,nuremb]g1 & ,s\? ,k5s+ton museums4 ,9 ,aldegrev]'s design = a :i/le1 ( ! ye> #aeci1 ! l[] "p is =m$ ( a case conta9+ small articles = toilet purposes4 ,su* articles1 9 ! %ape ( too?picks & e>-picks1 (t5 ri*ly gemm$ & enamell$1 7 v commonly worn hang+ f a f9e gold *a9 or ?read ab\t ! neck4 ,elaborate too?picks are occasionally se5 9 pictures1 z 9 ! ,v5etian portrait ( a "y man 9 ! ,national ,gall]y ( ,irel&4 ,_! own]s are sometimes %[n affectionately toy+ ) !m4 ,judg+ by ! frequ5cy ) :i* !y are met ) 9 inv5tories1 !y mu/ h be5 extremely popul>4 ,a few quotations may be giv54 ,?us3 ,h5ry ,,viii 7#aecj74 ,two gold too?picks ) ,h & ,e--,a gold too?pick & an e>-pick1 ) a *a92 & two o!r too?picks1 "o ) a ruby & a pe>l1 & ! o!r ) a ruby & a diamond--,two gold :i/les4#afc ,que5 ,elizabe? among/ h] ,new ,ye>'s gifts receiv$ ! foll[+3--#aegc-d3 ,six smale to!-picks ( golde4 ,gev5 by ,mrs4 ,sn[e1 "o ( !m lo/ by h] ,maje/ie4 #aegd-e3 ,an e>e-picke ( golde enamul$1 g>ni%$ ) sp>cks ( rubyes1 blue saphirs1 & se$e p]le4 #aegf-g3 ,a to! & e>e-picke ( golde1 be+ a dolph9 enamul$1 ) a p]le p5daunte1 #af small rubyes be+ b sp>cks1 & #e sp>cks ( dyamonds4#afd ,mo/ ( ! important collections ( ,c9quec5to jewell]y conta9 specim5s ( ^! magnific5t too?picks4 ,! =m is (t5 t ( a m]maid or m]man4 ,! body is con/ruct$ ( a b>oque pe>l2 ! tail t]m9ates 9 a po9t4 ,designs = a c\ple ( jewels ( ?is k9d 7 publi%$ by ,erasmus ,hornick ( ,nuremb]g 9 #aefb4 ,9 ! ,cluny ,museum 7,wasset ,beque/7 is a silv]-gilt p5dant1 an e>- & too?pick comb9$1 "o end be+ an e>-1 ! o!r a too?pick4 ,x is ornam5t$ 9 ! c5tre ) clasp$ h&s & hung ) a pe>l1 & is ,g]man "w ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 #afc ,h5ry ,,viii1 ,lett]s & ,pap]s1 ,,iv1 ,no4 #fghi4 #afd ,ni*ols1 ,progresses ( ,q4 ,elizabe?1 ,i1 pp4 #chj1 #dab2 ,,ii1 p4 #eb4 ,9 addition to ! museums already m5tion$ 7namely1 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum & ! ,vi5na ,museum1 ! ,ro?s*ild & ,davilli] ,beque/s 9 ! ,l\vre1 & ! co9 or gem collections ( ,london1 ,p>is1 ,b]l91 & ,muni*71 numb]s ( p5dants1 9 imm5se v>iety ( =m1 are to be f\nd 9 all ! well-kn[n collections4 ,! ,waddesdon ,beque/ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum conta9s1 p]haps1 ! l>ge/ s]ies2 :ile ! ,wallace ,collection1 ! ,prussian ,cr[n ,treasury at ,b]l91 ! ,bav>ian ,cr[n ,treasury at ,muni*1 & ! ,gre5 ,vaults at ,dresd51 all possess a great numb] ( examples4 99 99 99 ,sev]al ,engli% p5dants ( ! ,r5aissance claim att5tion = _! r>e beauty & hi/orical importance4 ,( ! p5dants ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,viii we obta9 a tol]ably accurate idea f contempor>y portraits1 & f ,holbe9's inimitable s]ies ( draw+s4 ,! e>lie/ exi/+ example1 :i*1 s f> z c be asc]ta9$1 dates f ! ,holbe9 p]iod1 is kn[n z ! ,p5ruddock ,jewel4 ,x is believ$ to h be5 pres5t$ 9 #aedd by ,que5 ,ca!r9e ,p>r to ,sir ,george ,p5ruddock ( ,compton ,*amb]layne1 & ,anne 8 wife4 ,x is triangul> 9 %ape1 & set ) a l>ge cabo*on sapphire surr\nd$ by rubies & diamonds 9 op5-"w enamel sett+4 ,?is rem>kable jewel is %[n on a portrait ( ,sir ,george ,p5ruddock by ,lucas de ,he]e 9 possession ( its own]1 ,mr4 ,*>les ,p5ruddock1 at ,compton ,*amb]layne1 ,wilt%ire4 ,illu/ration3 ,! ,p5ruddock ,jewel4 ,! majority ( ,engli% sixte5?-c5tury p5dants extant date f ! ,elizabe?an p]iod1 & are almo/ all m or less associat$ ) ! ,virg9 ,que54 ,! +5uity display$ 9 devis+ curi\s =ms = ^! ornam5ts c be/ be judg$ f ! li/s ( ! ,que5's own jewels4 ,a few ( ^! may be m5tion$3 ,a juell ( golde1 be+ a catt1 & myce play+ ) h]4--,"o gre5e frog1 ! back ( em]aldes1 smale & greate1 & a p5daunte em]alde1 & a smale *eyne ( golde to hang by4--,a juell ( golde1 be+ an ank]4 ,ano!r be+ a dolfyn1 ano!r two snakes w\nde toge!r1 o!rs take ! =m ( a horse-%oe1 a swan1 & a ra9b[4 ,! nef jewel1 ( :i* we h spok51 0 also a fav\rite "o4 ,9 ! ,que5's inv5tory are a numb] ( entries ( ?is class ( p5dant1 & among !m3 ,a jeuel ( golde1 be+ a %ippe1 sett ) a table dyamonde1 ( fyve sp>cks ( dyamondes1 & a smale p]le p5daunte4--,a juell1 be+ a %ip ( "m-(-p]le1 g>ne%$ ) small rubys1 & #c small diamonds4 ,"o ( ! *ief treasures among ! ,hunsdon heirlooms at ,b]keley ,ca/le is a p5dant ( ?is =m1 a pres5t to ,elizabe? f ,sir ,francis ,drake1 & giv5 by h] to ,"l ,hunsdon4 ,x is suppos$ to repres5t ! fam\s ,gold5 ,h9d1 ! %ip 9 :i* ,drake sail$ r\nd ! _w4 ,! hull1 :i* is ( ebony1 is set ) a table diamond2 ! ma/s & rigg+ ( gold are enri*$ ) blue1 :ite1 gre51 & black opaque enamels1 & set ) se$ pe>ls4 ,9 ! %ip is a seat$ figure ( ,victory bl[+ a horn1 & beh9d is a *]ub cr[n+ h] ) a wrea?4 ,! small boat susp5d$ bel[ is enamell$ blue 7,pl4 ,,xxxv1 #b74 ,a jewel also associat$ ) ,sir ,francis ,drake1 & p]haps ! mo/ important ( all ,elizabe?an p5dants1 is pres]v$1 ) o!r relics ( ! great navigator1 at ,nutwell ,c\rt1 ,devon4 ,x is set 9 front ) a f9e ,r5aissance cameo 9 ,ori5tal s>donyx1 repres5t+ two heads--a negro 9 ! upp] & d>k lay]1 & a classical head 9 ! light lay] ( ! /one4 ,beh9d is a m9iature by ,hilli>d ( ,elizabe?1 dat$ #aege4 ,! bord]1 ( mo/ admirable "w1 is ri*ly enamell$ 9 r$1 yell[1 blue1 & gre51 int]sp]s$ ) diamonds & rubies4 ,b5ea? is a clu/] p5dant ( pe>ls1 to :i* is atta*$ a v f9e drop pe>l 7,pl4 ,,xxxiv1 #d74 ,?is magnific5t jewel 0 pres5t$ to ,sir ,francis ,drake by ,que5 ,elizabe? 9 #aegi1 & 9 8 portrait by ,zuc*]o 7n[ belong+1 toge!r ) ! jewel1 to 8 desc5dant ,sir ,f4 ,full]-,eliott-,drake7 he is repres5t$ we>+ x susp5d$ f ! neck by a r$ & gold cord1 ov] a silk sc>f1 also a pres5t f ! ,que54 ,! clu/] ( pe>ls1 z on ! ,drake ,jewel1 0 a fav\rite =m ( ornam5t = ,r5aissance p5dants4 ,9 ! ,national ,portrait ,gall]y is a portrait ( ,h5ry ,grey1 ,duke ( ,suffolk 7fa!r ( ,lady ,jane ,grey71 we>+ a ,george ( ! ,ord] ( ! ,g>t]1 bel[ :i* is hung a pe>l clu/] & a l>ge pe>-%ap$ pe>l atta*$4 ,a simil> p5dant1 l a bun* ( grapes1 s]ves to enri* ano!r f9e jewel ( ?is "t--! ,b>bor ,jewel 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4 ,9 ! c5tre ( ?is jewel is a beautifully cut cameo portrait 9 s>donyx ( ,que5 ,elizabe? 9 a frame ( transluc5t blue & gre5 on opaque :ite enamel1 set alt]nately ) rubies & table diamonds4 ,accord+ to a family tradition1 ,mr4 ,william ,b>bor1 :o _h be5 condemn$ to be burn$ at ! /ake 9 ,smi?field = 8 religion1 _h ?is jewel made to commemorate 8 deliv]ance ?r\gh ! dea? ( ,que5 ,m>y & ! accession ( ,elizabe? 7,pl4 ,,xxxv1 #d74 ,! ,museum at ,s\? ,k5s+ton exhibits ano!r p5dant ( ! same p]iod1 ! prop]ty ( ,miss ,wild4 ,x is ( gold1 ( op5 scrollwork1 enamell$1 & set ) rubies & diamonds1 & ) pe>l drops4 ,x has 9 ! c5tre a turquoise cameo ( ,que5 ,elizabe?4 ,! %e5 ( ! pe>ls ) ! ri* r$ ( ! foil$ rubies & ! d>k lu/re ( ! diamonds 9 _! old irregul> sett+1 comb9e ) ! lightness & delicacy ( ! goldwork t\*$ ) col\r$ enamel to r5d] ?is little p5dant "o ( ! mo/ attractive objects ( its k9d 9 exi/5ce4 ,9 addition to its arti/ic beauty1 ! jewel is ( int]e/ f ! tradition t x 0 giv5 z a *ri/5+ pres5t by ,que5 ,elizabe? to its fir/ own]1 by ^: desc5dants x has be5 pres]v$ to ! pres5t day4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxiv ,,r5aissance ,,p5dants1 ,,etc41 ,,( ,,gold1 ,,enamell$ ,,& ,,jewell$ ,,spani% 7#a-b7 ,,& ,,engli% 7#c-f7 ,among/ o!r examples 9 t important gr\p ( jewels :i* 7 app>5tly int5d$ ei!r z special rew>ds to naval (fic]s or simply z complim5t>y pres5ts f ! ,que5 to ,c\rt fav\rites1 ! f9e/ are ! ,pho5ix ,jewel 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 a jewel belong+ to ,mr4 ,pi]pont ,morgan1 & "o 9 ! ,poldi-,pezzoli ,museum1 ,milan4 ,! ,pho5ix ,jewel1 bequea!d to ! ,briti% ,museum by ,sir ,hans ,sloane 9 #agec1 has z a c5tral ornam5t a gold bu/ ( ,que5 ,elizabe? cut f a gold m$al kn[n z ! ,pho5ix ,badge ( ! ye> #aegd1 be>+ on ! rev]se ! device ( a pho5ix amid flames4 ,x is enclos$ 9 an enamell$ wrea? set on bo? sides ) r$1 :ite1 & v>iegat$ roses symbolis+ ! union ( ! ,h\ses ( ,york & ,lanca/]4 ,! roses1 ( transluc5t r$ & opaque :ite enamel1 & ! leaves1 ( transluc5t gre5 on engrav$ gr\nd1 are atta*$ to /alks cov]$ ) light] gre5 opaque enamel 7,pl4 ,,xxxv1 #a74 ,! workman%ip ( ?is jewel is extremely f9e1 & on a level 9 po9t ( excell5ce ) ! ,eliott-,drake p5dant & ) ,mr4 ,pi]pont ,morgan's ,armada ,jewel4 ,( ! la/-nam$--a spl5did production ( an ,engli% goldsmi? ( ! ,elizabe?an p]iod--x is impossible to speak ) adequate praise4 ,l ! ,pho5ix ,jewel1 x is modell$ ^u a contempor>y m$al1 ?\gh 9 an entirely diff]5t /yle4 ,^u ! front is a pr(ile bu/ ( ,que5 ,elizabe? f ! ,p]sonal or ,g>t] badge ( #aehb1 ^u an enamell$ gr\nd ( av5tur9e blue1 inscrib$ ) ! royal title4 ,! opposite side =ms a locket conta9+ a m9iature ( ,elizabe? by ,hilli>d dat$ #aehj1 & cov]$ ) a lid enamell$ ) transluc5t col\rs--on ! outside ) ! ,ark & ! motto ,,saevas ,,tranquilla ,,p] ,,undas 7z on ! ,naval ,aw>d ,m$al ( #aehh71 & on ! inside ) ! ,tudor rose & a laudatory ,lat9 motto--! same z appe>s r\nd ! rev]se ( ! ,pho5ix ,badge ( #aegd1 :i* ref]s to ,elizabe? ) a regret t virtue endu$ ) s mu* beauty %\ld n un9jur$ enjoy p]petual life4 ,! jewel is bord]$ by /rapwork j\r ( opaque blue & :ite enamel set ) table diamonds & rubies4 ,?is exquisite object1 :i* is 9 ! highe/ possible /ate ( pres]vation1 & reta9s its f9e enamel entirely un9jur$1 0 sold at ,messrs4 ,*ri/ie's 9 ,july1 #aijb1 = ! l>ge sum ( #e1bej 7,pl4 ,,xxxiv1 #e1 #f74 ,! ?ird jewel ( ?is class1 also und\bt$ly ,engli%1 is 9 ! ,poldi-,pezzoli ,museum at ,milan4 ,x has 9 ! c5tre a "m-(-pe>l m$allion ) ! ,ark c>v$ 9 l[ relief1 ( ! same design z on ! ,morgan ,jewel & ! #aehh m$al1 surr\nd$ by ! l inscription--,,saevas ,,tranqvila ,,p] ,,vndas--9 gold on :ite enamel1 & encircl$ by a b& ( table-cut rubies4 ,! edge is enamell$ ) transluc5t r$ & gre51 & opaque :ite enamel 7,pl4 ,,xxxv1 #c74 ,! ,ark float+ tranquilly amid viol5t waves is emblematic ( ! =tunes ( ,engl&1 or possibly ( ,elizabe?1 :o1 accord+ to ! leg5d ,,p] ,,tot ,,discrim9a ,,r]um :i* appe>s on ! back ( ! jewel1 _h sail$ triumphantly ?r\gh _m dang]s4 ,no acc\nt ( ?is important object has previ\sly be5 publi%$1 nor has its nationality up to ! pres5t be5 notic$1 or at any rate record$4 ,! front op5s on a h+e1 & %[s t ! p5dant 0 int5d$ z a m9iature case--?\gh ! m9iature is miss+4 ,9 ! times ( ,elizabe? & h] successor m9iature cases 7 among ! mo/ important ( p5d5t jewels4 ,q a numb] h surviv$1 *iefly on acc\nt ( ! m9iatures !y enclose4 ,contempor>y portraits %[ ! mann] 9 :i* !y 7 worn4 ,9 ! catalogue ( ,*>les ,i's collections a m9iature ( ,que5 ,elizabe? is ?us describ$3 ,que5 ,elizabe? 444 v ri*ly adorn$ ) gold & pe>ls1 & a picture-box hang+ at h] "r brea/4 ,su* picture boxes1 ) backs elaborately enamell$ by ! *amplev me?od1 leav+ only ?9 outl9es ( gold ( scroll design1 & h+$ fronts ( op5-"w1 enamell$ & set ) preci\s /ones1 are among ! pres5ts :i* appe> to h be5 frequ5tly conf]r$ z m>ks ( recognition on fav\rite c\rti]s or subjects4 ,x is impossible to enum]ate all ! v>i\s examples 9 public & private collections4 ,! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum possesses "o ( ! be/1 & a beautiful specim5 is pres]v$ at ,w9dsor ,ca/le#afe 7,pl4 ,,xxviii1 #e74 ,a description ( a ?ird jewel ( ! k9d1 ! ,lyte ,jewel1 w be giv5 subsequ5tly 7p4 #cjc74 #afe ,see ,connoisseur1 ,v1 p4 #hj4 ,! gems & jewels at ,w9dsor ,ca/le1 by ,h4 ,clif=d ,smi?4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxv ,,elizabe?an ,,jewell]y ,besides ! enamell$ & jewell$ p5dants !re are v>i\s m$als 7"s ( :i* h be5 allud$ to7 susp5d$ by a r+ or *a9 & worn z badges by ^? :o 7 p]sonally atta*$ to ! ,que52 & to ! "t ( ,james ,i belong num]\s ref]5ces to m$als ( gold ) ! ,k+'s ,maje/ie's phisnomy on !m1 mo/ly ! "w ( 8 goldsmi?1 ,john ,williams1 & pres5t$ to v>i\s =eign]s 9 (ficial positions4 ,space does n p]mit ( detail$ description ( ! wond]ful ,l5nox or ,d>nley ,jewel at ,w9dsor ,ca/le1 pur*as$ by ,que5 ,victoria at ! sale ( ,horace ,walpole's collection at ,/rawb]ry ,hill 9 #ahdb 7,pl4 ,,xxviii1 #d74 ,! jewel has be5 fully describ$ by ,mr4 ,tytl] & ,mr4 ,alb]t ,way4#aff #aff ,way7,a471 ,cat4 ( antiquities & hi/orical ,scotti% relics1 ,ed9burgh1 #ahei1 p4 #afc4 ,see also ,connoisseur1 loc4 cit4 ,x has be5 impossible "h to convey an adequate idea ( all ! v>i\s specim5s ( sixte5?-c5tury p5dants t exi/ at ! pres5t day4 ,att5tion has be5 drawn to a few ( ! mo/ /rik+ examples :i* /& out above ! re/1 ei!r by reason ( ! beauty ( _! design or ! sup]lative excell5ce ( _! workman%ip1 or by reason ( _! unique hi/orical int]e/4 ,:ile indicat+ ! great public collections :]e ^! ?+s are pres]v$1 x mu/ be left to amateurs to discov] & appreciate = !mselves1 z !y are b\nd to d1 :at1 ow+ to exig5cies ( space1 we are preclud$ f ref]r+ to 9 detail4 ,,*apt] ,,xxviii ,,r5aissance ,,r+s1 ,,bracelets1 ,,& ,,broo*es ,! spl5d\r-lov+ sixte5? c5tury f> surpass$ ! ,middle ,ages 9 ! use ( ! f+] r+4 ,no o!r ornam5t ( ! ,r5aissance atta9$ su* ri*ness & pr(usion4 ,9 sixte5? & sev5te5? c5tury portraits r+s are repres5t$ 9 su* quantities t ! h&s appe> ov]burd5$ ) !m2 :ile ! numb] ent]$ 9 ! old inv5tories is a/\nd+4 ,yet x is well to rememb] t ! ^w bague1 :i* we translate a r+1 0 a g5]al t]m = all p5d5t jewels--?\gh n infrequ5tly a di/9ction 9 ! li/s is drawn betwe5 bague mettre aux oreilles 7an e>r+71 bague p5dre 7a p5dant71 & bague mettre au doigt4 ,! extraord9>y abundance ( f+] r+s 9 use at ! "t may be/ be judg$ by a li/ 9 ! inv5tory ( ,h5ry ,,viii ( ! ye> #aecj1 :i* conta9s no less ?an #bcd4 ,( ! l>ge numb] ( ,r5aissance r+s t h surviv$ to ! pres5t day mo/ are ( a purely ornam5tal "*2 & ?\gh _m o!rs are ( int]e/ on acc\nt ( _! emblematic or hi/orical associations1 ^? :i* display arti/ic "w require ! *ief consid]ation4 ,out ( all ! r+s t simply s]v$ ! purpose ( decoration1 !re are v few ^: nationality c be easily det]m9$4 ,if x is difficult 9 ! case ( p5dants & simil> ornam5ts to come to a decision ) reg>d to ! "q ( prov5ance1 x is ev5 m s :]e r+s are conc]n$4 ,pictures ( ! p]iod1 z has be5 said1 repres5t p]sons ) _! h&s heavily load$ ) r+s1 :i* are worn ^u all ! f+]s1 ! ?umb includ$4 ,e f+]-jo9t up to ! v nail is cov]$ ) !m1 & !y are worn1 z by ! anci5t ,romans1 ev5 ^u ! knuckles4 ,! great projection ( ! r+s' bezels w\ld h r5d]$ ! use ( gloves impossible1 7 x n1 z we "k f pictures1 = ! cu/om ( plac+ ! r+s outside ! gloves1 & also = ! some:at ugly fa%ion ( slitt+ ! f+]s ( ! gloves1 9 ord] t !y might be worn ) great] com=t1 & all[ ! r+s !mselves to be display$4 ,9 a portrait ( a lady by ,lucas ,crana* 9 ! ,national ,gall]y1 r+s are worn bo? ov] & b5ea? ! gloves1 e f+] & ! ?umbs hav+ two or ?ree4 ,! r+s "u ! gloves appe> on ! top ( ! second knuckle ( e f+]1 & are visible ?r\gh ! crevs made 9 ! gloves at ^! po9ts4 ,9 o!r pictures by ?is arti/1 su* z t entitl$ ,judi? at ,vi5na1 & 9 ! works ( 8 contempor>ies 9 ,g]many1 ! same sla%$ gloves are to be se54 ,m5's gloves1 too1 l _! d\blets1 7 sla%$1 z is cle> f ! engrav$ portrait ( ,duke ,william ( ,juli]s1 by ,aldegrev]4 ,bi%op ,hall 7,satires1 ,,iii1 iv7 ref]s ?us to ! curr5t fa%ion3-- ,nor c good ,myson we> on 8 left hond1 ,a signet r+ ( ,bri/ol diamond1#afg ,b he mu/ cut 8 glove to %[ 8 pride1 ,t 8 trim jewel might be bett] spy'd4 #afg ,see note1 p4 #bce4 ,! t5d5cy ( plac+ ! /one 9 a v high bezel 0 a tradition f ! ,middle ,ages1 :]e a pref]5ce _h always be5 %[n = ! /one be+ s set4 ,! ornam5tal r+s ( ! ,r5aissance foll[$ a uni=m outl9e z f> z _! bezels & sett+s 7 conc]n$4 ,!y conta9$1 z a rule1 "o /one only1 back$ by a foil or paillon1 & set 9 a box-l collet1 squ>e & pyramidal1 & clos$ beh9d4 ,! gold 0 rubb$ ov] ! sett+ edge ( ! /one1 & ! f\r side surfaces !n decorat$ 9 a v>iety ( ways by ! application ( enamel1 & sometimes ov]laid ) an additional ornam5tation 9 imitation ( claws4 ,! /one itself1 usually table-cut1 0 frequ5tly a ruby4 ,illu/ration3 ,triple r+s set ) po9t$ diamonds4 ,device ( ,cosimo de' ,m$ici4 7,figur$ 9 ,botticelli's ,pallas 9 ! ,pitti ,gall]y47 ,"o peculi> v>iety ( r+1 kn[n f ! e>ly "p ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 is des]v+ ( note4 ,its design 0 f\nd$ ^u ! natural octah$rite %ape ( ! diamond1 & 0 di/+ui%$ by a v high bezel1 :i* receiv$ "o half ( ! octah$ron & all[$ ! o!r to project upw>ds4 ,r+s set ?us ) po9t$ diamonds 7 9 high fav\r until ! middle ( ! sev5te5? c5tury1 & 7 employ$ = writ+ ^u glass--a practice :i* appe>s to h be5 mu* 9 vogue4 ,! mo/ *>act]i/ic examples ( ! diamante 9 punta 7 ^? adopt$ by ! ,m$ici z _! device4 ,?ree diamond r+s int]lac$ 7 employ$ by ,cosimo 7d4 #adfd72 ,pi]o took "o diamond r+ held 9 ! claw ( a falcon2 ,lor5zo cont9u$ ! device ( ! r+1 9 :i* he plac$ ?ree fea!rs4 ,! be/-kn[n repres5tations ( ^! ?ree devices are figur$ 9 ,paolo ,giovio's ,dialogo dell' imprese4 ,9 addition to ! case = ! /one1 ! sides or %\ld]s ( ! r+ :i* held x 7 ! subject ( special arti/ic developm5t4 ,!y took ! =m ( small figures1 w+$ creature1 masks1 & o!r ornam5ts 9 relief & ri*ly enamell$2 :ile = smoo? surfaces *amplev enamel 0 employ$ 9 a v>iety ( designs4 ,s extraord9>ily elaborate is ! "w on "s ( ^! r+s t x w\ld almo/ seem z if !y 7 produc$ r z examples ( ! skill ( ! craftsman ?an z objects = actual use4 ,sev]al old portraits exhibit r+s /rung ^u m5's necklaces1 or hung f a ?9 cord r\nd ! neck4 ,a portrait by ,mabuse1 9 ! ,b]l9 ,gall]y1 %[s a r+ worn ?us1 & 9 two portraits by ,lucas ,crana*--"o at ,weim>1 repres5t+ ,johann ,fri$ri* ( ,saxony attir$ z a bridegroom1 & ! o!r at ,dresd51 ( ! ,elector ,johann ! ,con/ant ( ,saxony 7#aebf7--r+s are hung simil>ly r\nd ! neck4 ,r+s 7 also worn 9 ! hat4 ,a p>ticul>ly /rik+ example ( ?is fa%ion is se5 9 ! portrait ( ,b]nh>d ,,iii1 ,m>grave ( ,bad51 #aeae1 by ,hans ,baldung ,gri51 9 ! ,p9ako!k1 ,muni*4 ,ar\nd 8 cap is fix$ a ?ick wire-%ap$ b& ( gold1 ) a /rip ( clo? w\nd spirally r\nd x4 ,! latt] s]ves to fix at regul> int]vals f\r gold r+s1 ?ree ( !m set ) cabo*on /ones & ! f\r? ) a po9t$ diamond4 ,a simil> k9d ( decoration is allud$ to 9 ,gabriel ,h>vey's ,lett] ,book1 #aegd 7,camd5 ,society1 #ahhd1 p4 #ade71 :]e a s]vant is m5tion$ c>ry+ to a maid5 an enamell$ posy r+ :i* 8 ma/] _h worn sewn ^u 8 hat4 ,! r+s worn ?us 7 9 _m cases betro?al or engagem5t r+s2 b ^? t s]v$ ?is purpose g5]ally assum$ special =ms1 & 7 among ! mo/ +5i\s productions ( ! "t4 ,!y 7 compos$ ( tw9 or d\ble hoops1 & kn[n z gimmel r+s4 ,! out] side ( ! two hoops 0 convex & elaborately ornam5t$1 :ile ! inn] side 0 flat & (t5 bore "s inscription4 ,! two hoops 7 wr\ght s exactly alike1 t1 toge!r ) ! /ones1 !y appe>$ to be "o r+1 yet c\ld be sep>at$1 & ! "o hung f ! o!r4 ,_! bezels 7 occasionally =m$ ( clasp$ h&s4 ,ord9>y "o-hoop r+s also bore ! same design & 7 kn[n z f$e r+s4 ,ano!r k9d ( betro?al or engagem5t r+ 0 ! posy or poesie r+1 g5]ally ( simple =m1 ) a v]se1 a "n1 or a motto engrav$ inside x4 ,! posy r+1 suitably inscrib$1 0 also us$ z a w$d+-r+4 ,! simple posy r+ belongs1 h[ev]1 *iefly to ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,! elaborate betro?al r+ seems to h be5 employ$ at ?is "t z a w$d+-r+ z well4 ,x 0 res]v$ = mod]n times to give ! w$d+-r+ its smoo?1 conv5i5t1 b arti/ically unimportant =m4 ,widely di/ribut$ among ! ,nor? ,g]man peasantry are c]ta9 peculi> w$d+-r+s1 :i*1 z a rule1 conta9 a c\ple ( ! he>t-%ap$ milk-tee? ( ! "y roe-buck1 ) a small lock f :i* hang two keys--a symbol :i* p]haps n inaptly indicates ! union ( two pure he>ts4 ,dat+ f ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies1 b :olly diff]5t f ! ,r5aissance =m ( r+1 & v l>ge & elaborate1 are ! ,jewi% w$d+-r+s1 :i* 7 us$ only at ! c]emony & !n pres]v$ by ! family4 ,!y are compos$ ( a broad b& adorn$ ) filigree 7probably 9 keep+ ) "s anci5t ,ori5tal tradition7 arrang$ 9 bosses & rosettes & enri*$ ) light blue1 light gre51 & o!r enamel4 ,9 place ( a bezel !re is (t5 ! model ( a build+ ) high gabl$ ro(s & enamell$ tile1 pi]c$ by w9d[s1 & hav+ movable wea!rcocks on ! apex2 an inscription 9 ,hebrew *>act]s on ! %ank conta9s ! motto ,good />4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxvi ,,r5aissance ,,& ,,lat] ,,r+s ,x 0 ! cu/om to arrange f+] r+s ^u a rod :5 n 9 use or :5 expos$ = exhibition 9 ! jewell]'s %op1 & 9 pa9t+s x is no uncommon ?+ to see a l9e ( r+s ( v>i\s patt]ns run on :at appe>s to be a roll ( p>*m5t2 z 9 ! annex$ illu/ration--a cut f a ,h]bal publi%$ at ,frank=t 9 #aecf4 ,r+s arrang$ ?us may be se5 9 ,ghirl&aio's portrait ( ,co/anza de' ,m$ici1 belong+ to ,mr4 ,salt+2 9 ! ,leg5d ( ,/4 ,godeb]ta by ,petrus ,*ri/us2 9 ,g]>d ,david's portrait ( a goldsmi? at ,vi5na2 9 ! ,bank] & 8 ,wife by ,qu5t9 ,matsys 9 ! ,l\vre1 & 9 simil> pictures :]e a jewell] or a bank] is repres5t$4 ,illu/ration3 ,r+s on a roll ( p>*m5t4 ,f ,kreut]bu* 7,frank=t1 #aecf74 ,9 ,h5ry ,,viii's inv5tory ( #aebg we f9d3 ,^u a f+]-/all1 sev5 r+s1 "o a ruby1 ano!r an em]ald1 & a turquoise1 ano!r a table diamond1 ano!r a triangul> diamond1 ano!r a rocky diamond2 also 9 #aecj3 ,a roll ) ?irty-n9e ,p>is r+s1 ) small /ones4 ,9 ! ,duke ( ,newca/le's com$y ,! ,c\ntry ,capta9 7#afdi7 m5tion is made ( an extravagant p]son :o makes 8 f+]s l jewell]s' c>ds to set r+s ^u4 ,9 ! ,p9ako!k1 ,muni*1 is a mo/ int]e/+ picture by ,p>is ,bordone repres5t+ a jewell] ) a quantity ( 8 treasures ly+ on a table be=e him4 ,e item is pa9t$ ) extreme c>e4 ,twelve massive f+] r+s1 arrang$ 9 ?ree r[s ( f\r1 are display$ 9 an oblong r+-box1 j 9 ! same mann] z "o might expect to f9d !m 9 a jewell]'s %op ( ! pres5t day4 ,a some:at simil> picture by ,lor5zo ,lotto1 9 ! ,kaufmann ,collection 9 ,b]l91 repres5ts a jewell] hold+ 9 8 left h& a box full ( r+s & 9 8 "r a s+le specim54 ,by f> ! mo/ attractive ( ! f9e engrav+s ( jewell]y by ,pi]re ,woeiriot ( ,lorra9e is 8 beautiful set ( r+s publi%$ 9 #aefa "u ! title ( ,livre d'aneaux d'orfvr]ie4 ,m4 ,f\lc1 ( ,p>is1 is g5]ally cr$it$ ) ! possession ( ! only complete set ( ^! engrav+s4 ,a p]fect specim5 ( ! "w is1 h[ev]1 pres]v$ 9 ! ,bodleian ,libr>y at ,ox=d1 to :i* x 0 bequea!d by ! well-kn[n antiqu>y ,francis ,d\ce 9 #ahcd4 ,x comprises =ty plates1 ea* conta9+ "o or m r+s to ! numb] ( n9ety-six1 & furni%es /rik+ examples ( ! ta/e & inv5tive g5ius !n be/[$ on ^! m9ute objects4 ,nev]!less1 engrav+s c convey b small idea ( ! col\r effect1 & ! wond]ful *>m t ! actual r+s possess4 ,9 ord] to fully appreciate !m1 "o mu/ visit ! ?ree great ,engli% collections ( !m n[ accessible to ! public3 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,collection1 conta9+ ! great] "p ( t =m$ by ,edmund ,wat]ton2 ! ,drury ,=tnum ,collection 9 ! ,a%molean ,museum1 ,ox=d2 & above all1 ! collection 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 :i* includes ! spl5did s]ies bequea!d by ,sir ,a4 ,w4 ,franks1 9 :i* 7 absorb$ ! ,braybrooke1 ,londesbor\gh1 & "s m9or cab9ets1 toge!r ) ! be/ f ! ,sod5 ,smi? ,collection1 z well z ! *oice/ f ! ,pi*on & f _m =eign sales4 ,,bracelets ,! bracelet dur+ ?is p]iod plays a sc>cely m prom95t "p ?an x did 9 ! ,middle ,ages1 & probably ow+ to ! same reason2 = 9 ,r5aissance times ! fa%ion ( leav+ ! arms b>e 0 n 9 fav\r1 & ! long sleeves t fell ov] ! h& 7 reta9$4 ,a few examples pres5t$ by pictures lead to ! supposition t bracelets consi/$ ( beads ( amb] or jet sep>at$ by balls ( gold1 or ( r[s ( cameos4 ,cat>9a ,corn>o 9 h] portrait by ,titian 9 ! ,uffizi we>s a bracelet ^u h] wri/ ov] ! sleeve1 :ile ! portrait ( a lady by ,crana* 9 ! ,national ,gall]y %[s t ! sleeves 7 occasionally sla%$ at ! wri/s to exhibit ! bracelets b5ea? !m1 j z 7 ! f+]s ( gloves = ! purpose ( display+ r+s4 ,inv5tories supply a c]ta9 am\nt ( in=mation conc]n+ bracelets4 ,h5ry ,,viii 9 #aecj possess$ sev5te51 includ+ "o ( ,p>is "w1 ) jacyn?s2 & "o ) eight diamonds1 eight rubies1 f\rte5 pe>ls1 & a diamond rose4 ,elizabe? receiv$ a l>ge numb] ( bracelets among/ h] ,new ,ye>'s gifts4 ,9 ! inv5tory ( ,m>y ,/u>t's jewels are ,une paire de brasseletz g>niz de cornal9e lapp9es et agate et entr$eux de d\bles--,une aultre paire de brasseletz damati/e--,ung bracelet fait a facon de s]p5t4 ,o!rs are =m$1 z 7 necklaces1 ( beads ( filigree enclos+ p]fumes3 ,deux braceletz dor p]cez a j\r ple9s de p>fum--,une aultre paire dor a j\r empliz de p>fum4 ,ref]5ces to bracelets by writ]s ( ! p]iod %[ t !y 7 n infrequ5tly worn z love tok5s4 ,?us 9 ,beaumont & ,flet*]'s ,cupid's ,rev5ge3-- ,giv5 e>-r+s we w we> ,bracelets ( our lov]s' hair1 ,:i* !y on our arms %all twi/ ,) our names c>v'd on our wri/4 ,also 9 ,b>nfield's ,affectionate ,%eph]d 7#aeid73-- ,i w\ld put amb] bracelets on ?y wri/1 ,cr[nlets ( pe>ls ab\t ?y nak$ arms4 ,contempor>y designs prove t bracelets foll[$ ! same elaborate =ms z o!r articles ( jewell]y1 z may be se5 f ! engrav$ designs ( ,duc]ceau1 & ! ,livre de ,bij\t]ie ( ,r5 ,boyv9 ( ,ang]s 7#aecj-aeih74 ,"o ( ! mo/ int]e/+ bracelets--z f> z actual specim5s are conc]n$--is pres]v$ at ,b]keley ,ca/le among/ ! heirlooms bequea!d by ,george ,c>ey1 ,"l ,hunsdon1 :o di$ 9 #afjc4 ,x is ( cry/al & gold1 #c in*es 9 diamet]4 ,! cry/al1 a complete circlet ov]laid ) op5-"w gold1 is encru/$ all r\nd ) rubies1 & has at int]vals f\r clu/]s ( rubies ar\nd a sapphire 7,pl4 ,,xxxv1 #e74 ,x is some:at difficult to arrive at a decision z to ! orig9 ( ?is rem>kable object4 ,x seems to be> traces ( ,ori5tal influ5ce 9 ! sett+ ( ! /ones1 ?\gh ! goldwork is ( diff]5t quality f :at "o w\ld expect to f9d 9 ,indian "w4 ,if1 l ! nef jewel at ,b]keley1 ?is armlet is to be associat$ ) ,sir ,francis ,drake1 x may well h be5 obta9$ by him z "p ( "s ,spani% spoil1 9 l mann] to ! cry/al bracelet set 9 gold procur$ by ,sir ,mat!w ,morgan at ! capture ( ,cadiz 9 #aeif--;,cadiz be+ !n ! /aple t[n = all ! trades ( ! ,levant & ( ! ,indies4#afh #afh ,cal5d> ( ,/ate ,pap]s1 ,dome/ic1 ,aug41 #aeif4 ,bracelets =m$ ( cameos are met ) sometimes on portraits4 ,! ,biblio?que ,nationale at ,p>is pres]ves a pair ( bracelets 7,nos4 #fbd & #fbe7 =m$ ea* ( sev5 oval %ell cameos repres5t+ figures ( animals1 enclos$ 9 gold m\nt+ enri*$ ) blue enamel1 & h+$ toge!r by a d\ble *a9 ornam5t$ ) rosettes enamell$ gre54 ,on ! "u side ( ! l>g] cameos :i* =m ! clasps are two int]lac+ ,c's )9 a wrea? ( palm & olive1 enamell$ gre51 & a b>r$ ,s 9 blue enamel at ea* angle4 ,^! bracelets1 ( :i* ! cameos z well z ! m\nt+s are ( f9e sixte5?-c5tury "w1 h be5 traditionally associat$ ) ,diana ( ,poiti]s4 ,b ! int]lac$ ,c's1 accord+ to ,m4 ,babelon1 are 9 all probability ! initials ( "s lady ( ! family ( ,h>lay1 f :om ! bracelets 7 acquir$ by ,l\is ,,xiv 7,pl4 ,,xxxvii1 #c1 #d74 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxvii ,,r5aissance ,,bracelets ,bracelets1 l necklaces1 7 n infrequ5tly compos$ entirely ( gold1 ) int]wov5 l9ks1 l mail-*a9s4 ,a *a9 bracelet ( ?is /yle1 =m$ ( circul> flut$ l9ks1 is 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4 ,its clasp is enri*$ ) a floral patt]n 9 transluc5t *amplev enamel 7,pl4 ,,xxxvii1 #a74 ,?ree simil> bracelets =m+ "p ( ! ,holtz5dorff treasure f ,p9n[ 7,uck]-,m>k1 ,n4 ,g]many7 are 9 ! ,g]manic ,museum1 ,nuremb]g4 ,!y are compos$ ( circul> l9ks1 & h flat clasps l ! bracelet j m5tion$1 ornam5t$ ) coats-(-arms 9 enamel4 ,"o ( !m be>s ! date #afab4 ,,broo*es ,"o ( ! mo/ important ( ornam5ts ?r\gh\t ! ,middle ,ages 0 ! broo*2 b t[>ds ! end ( ! fifte5? c5tury ! mode ( we>+ g>m5ts *ang$1 & ! cteh>di hav+ replac$ ! mantle1 broo*es disappe>$ little by little1 till 9 ,r5aissance times !y 7 r>ely employ$1 except z ornam5ts = ! hat4 ,x is true t sixte5?-c5tury inv5tories conta9 an imm5se numb] ( ow*es & broo*es--,h5ry ,,viii _h no less ?an #cbd--;b ne>ly all ^!1 ! l>g] ones especially1 7 worn z enseignes ^u ! hat2 :ile ! small] 7 employ$ n z dress fa/5]s1 b simply z ornam5ts sewn or p9n$ at regul> int]vals ^u ! front ( ! dress or ! bord]s ( ! sleeves4 ,a s+le elaborate jewell$ broo* is sometimes se5 9 pictures atta*$ to ! upp] "p ( ! sleeve4 ,we see x ?us on ! figure ( ,ari?metic 9 ,p9turic*io's fam\s fresco 9 ! ,app>tam5to ,borgia ( ! ,vatican1 & lat] 9 ,engli% pictures1 notably ! well-kn[n pa9t+ 9 ,%]borne ,ca/le1 ,dorset1 repres5t+ ,que5 ,elizabe?'s procession 9 litt] to ,blackfri>s 9 #afjj1 :]e ! ladies ( h] ret9ue h jewels fa/5$ to ! sleeves ( _! "r arms4 ,! g>m5ts ( ?is p]iod 7 n fa/5$ by means ( broo*es1 b 7 clos$ ) buttons or po9ts1 or ) hooks & eyes4 ,sleeves 7 (t5 held on by buttons to :i* ! sleeve-loops or po9ts 7 ti$1 :ile o!r portions ( ! clo?+1 especially if ( lea!r & cumb]some to button1 7 secur$ ) loops or hooks & eyes4 ,! sla%+s ( ! dress 7 sometimes clos$ by buttons or pompoms =m$ ( /ones surr\nd$ by pe>ls4 ,simil> button-l ornam5ts1 jewell$ & ri*ly enamell$1 ( :i* examples exi/1 7 worn 9 r[s all ov] ! dress1 b _! delicate =m & (t5 irregul> %ape exclude ! supposition t !y 7 us$ z actual buttons4 ,( ornam5ts ( ?is k9d ,m>y ,que5 ( ,scots possess$ a l>ge numb]3 ?us--,quatre v+tz b\ttons dor esmaillez de blanc et noir g>niz de *acune une p]le4 ,o!rs m5tion$ 9 h] inv5tory are rose g>niz de *acun trois p]les2 o!rs aga9 are p]cez j\r esmaillez de noir4 ,^! individual jewell$ ornam5ts1 :i* x 0 ! practice to sew on ! dress at regul> int]vals by way ( trimm+1 may be treat$ z di/9ct f ornam5tation :i* =m$ "p ( ! actual co/ume1 su* z masses ( pe>ls & preci\s /ones1 ) :i* dresses 7 lit]ally load$4 ,individual jewels (t5 took ! =m ( ! monogram1 cre/1 or device ( ! own]1 9 pure gold ri*ly decorat$4 ,a curi\s in/ance ( ?is cu/om has already be5 allud$ to 9 connection ) :at occurr$ dur+ ! masque giv5 by ,h5ry ,,viii at ,we/m9/]4 ,! fa%ion = we>+ ornam5ts 9 ! =m ( jewell$ initials 0 /ill 9 vogue on ! quilt$ dresses ( ! "t ( ,james ,i4 ,anne ( ,d5m>k is repres5t$ 9 h] portraits we>+ !m bo? on h] ruff & 9 h] hair1 & a jewel1 9 =m ( an ,a & two ,,cc1 sett ) diamonds & o!rs ( simil> k9d are to be f\nd 9 ! li/s ( jewels suppli$ to ! ,que5 by ,george ,h]iot4 ,except occasionally = buttons1 ! *ief means employ$ = fa/5+ ! g>m5ts 0 by aigulets or aglets4 ,^! ornam5tal loops or eyelets1 =m$ ( cords t]m9at+ ) goldsmi?'s "w1 7 movable & 7 *ang$ f "o dress to ano!r accord+ to pleasure4 ,!y are se5 9 pictures hang+ n only f sla%es & v>i\s p>ts ( ! g>m5ts1 b also f ! cap2 & ,h5ry ,,viii is describ$ z we>+ a cap ornam5t$ ) gold enamell$ tags4 ,8 daught]1 ! ,pr9cess ,m>y1 0 suppli$ 9 #aedb by h] jewell]1 ,mabell1 ) two doz5 pairs ( aglets4 ,m>y ,/u>t _h a numb]1 su* z3 ,soixante c9q esguillettes dor facon de *euilles sans esmail1 ,soixante une esguillettes dor et de p]le esmaillez de r\ge1 & ,quatre v+tz dixhuict esguillette dor esmaillez de blanc et noir4 ,que5 ,elizabe? possess$ sev]al sets1 ( diff]5t col\rs & patt]ns--"s gold enamell$ :ite1 "s blue1 o!rs purple1 & "s enri*$ ) pe>ls & preci\s /ones4 ,^! jewell$ aglets are n[ extremely r>e1 & are n repres5t$ 9 any public collection4 ,illu/ration3 ,design ( a bracelet by ,jacques ,&r\et ,duc]ceau4 ,,*apt] ,,xxix ,,r5aissance ,,girdles ,,& ,,girdle ,,p5dants 7,,mirrors1 ,,books1 ,,wat*es1 ,,sc5t-,,cases1 ,,& ,,pom&]s7 ,! girdle is an important ornam5t 9 ! dress ( ! ,r5aissance4 ,f ! beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? c5tury x diff]s consid]ably f ! m$ival patt]n already discuss$4 ,9 place ( ! /iff hoop ab\t ! hips1 x 0 worn loosely across ! body f above ! "r hip d[n t[>ds ! left ?igh1 :]e ! upp] g>m5t 0 pass$ ov] x 9 a light fold4 ,at ?is po9t 0 ! clasp1 f :i* hung num]\s small articles necess>y to ! active h\sewife4 ,ano!r /yle ( we>+ x1 :i* appe>s to h be5 adopt$ = m sumptu\s dress1 0 "o :]e x m firmly encircl$ ! body1 & f a clasp 9 front1 hung d[n 9 a long end1 t]m9at+ 9 a special ornam5tal app5dage--a sc5t-case or pom&]4 ,! common mat]ial 0 lea!r or /uff1 su* z 0 employ$ = m5's girdles4 ,! long & n>r[ ?ong ( lea!r1 t]m$ c\rroye1 0 worn by all classes4 ,r[s ( su* girdles are figur$ 9 ! backgr\nd ( ,jo/ ,amman's well-kn[n woodcut ( ! ce9turi] 9 8 work%op1 ( ! ye> #aeid4 ,! majority ( ,r5aissance girdles1 conf9$ solely to female attire1 7 made entirely ( silv] or silv]-gilt1 & ev5 ( silv]$ or gild$ bronze4 ,!y took ! =m ( flat *a9s compos$ ( l9ks1 g5]ally ) solid pieces 9 ! %ape ( oblong plaques1 ( ca/ or *as$ "w1 introduc$ at regul> int]vals4 ,! solid p>ts1 p>ticul>ly ^? t =m$ ! clasps1 7 occasionally enri*$ ) enamels1 preci\s /ones1 or engrav$ gems4 ,! majority ( collections conta9 specim5s ( su* girdles2 b simpl] k9ds1 compos$ entirely ( r+-%ap$ l9ks1 :i*1 judg+ f num]\s ,flemi%1 ,dut*1 & ,g]man portraits1 mu/ h be5 9 v g5]al use 9 ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies1 are mu* less frequ5tly met )4 ,a good example ( su*1 a *a9 9 silv]-gilt1 ( ,g]man "w ( ! second half ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 is pres]v$ 9 ! ,muse du ,c9quant5aire at ,brussels4 ,x is =m$ ( r\nd$ groov$ l9ks4 ,at "o end is a rosette-%ap$ girdle plate set ) a :ite cry/al1 & hav+ a hook beh9d to cat* into any l9k ( ! *a94 ,! o!r end t]m9ates 9 a pe>-%ap$ pom&] #c in*es long1 & divid$ = ! reception ( diff]5t cosmetics into two p>ts1 unit$ by a screw f bel[4 ,a consid]able numb] ( girdles ( lea!r or /rips ( mat]ial are f\nd m\nt$ aft] ! m$ival /yle ) buttons or /uds1 & in/ead ( clasps1 h buckles at "o end1 & at ! o!r ! p5dants or *apes common 9 e>li] times4 ,x is n unusual to meet ) girdles ( ,flemi% or ,g]man "w :i*1 ?\gh dat+ f ! latt] "p ( ! sev5te5? c5tury1 are ornam5t$ ) ,go?ic patt]ns4 ,! buckle & p5dant 7mordant71 deeply pi]c$ ) op5-"w trac]y ( flamboyant design1 are g5]ally unit$ by only a %ort ?ong1 & are s ov]*>g$ ) ornam5t t x is d\btful if !y c\ld h be5 ( any practical use4 ,su* objects appe> 9 reality to be b specim5s ( _! "w submitt$ by girdl]s :o 7 desir\s ( obta9+ admission to ! ,girdl]s' ,company4 ,!y s]ve to %[ h[ long-liv$ 7 ,go?ic traditions among ! guilds4 ,examples 9 silv] or bronze gilt are to be f\nd 9 ! ,g]manic ,museum1 ,nuremb]g1 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum 7,no4 #bcjd-'ee71 ! ,waddesdon ,beque/ 7,no4 #bbf71 dat$ #afhj1 ! ,wallace ,collection 7,no4 #ghc71 dat$ #agji1 & 9 _m o!r public collections 7,pl4 ,,xxxviii1 #c74 ,a numb] ( articles1 bo? useful & ornam5tal1 7 susp5d$ f ! girdle4 ,= practical purposes ! h\sewife c>ri$ at h] side1 besides a knife1 su* objects z small scissors 9 a case1 a purse1 & also h] keys4 ,cases or tuis = knives 7 atta*$ ei!r by silk5 cords or by *a9s4 ,:5 cords 7 employ$ ! cov] ( ! tui 0 furni%$ ) loops on ea* side ?r\gh :i* ! cords slid4 ,op5 quiv]-l %ea?s = knives hung by *a9s 7 (t5 worn1 9 ord] to display ! ri* decoration ( ! knife-heads4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxviii ,,r5aissance ,,girdles ,! ,italianate co/ume1 su* z is f\nd 9 ! type ( ,vanity 9 emblem books ( ! age1 & :i* made its way ev]y:]e1 fav\r$ ! addition ( _m o!r accessories to ! girdles1 su* z fans1 gloves1 look+-glasses1 books1 wat*es1 sc5t-cases1 & pom&]s4 ,mirrors1 besides be+ worn f ! neck1 =m$1 z did m9iature-cases1 a frequ5t p5dant f ! girdle4 ,^! 7 ei!r 9 a frame ( ivory or goldsmi?'s "w1 or ins]t$ 9 ! fan4 ,/ubbes1 ! c5sor ( ! follies ( 8 day1 speaks ( ! look+-glasses :i* ladies c>ri$ ) !m :]esoev] !y g4 ,eti5ne 7,/ephanus7 ,delaune has left eight engrav$ designs = h& mirrors ( great beauty4 ,_! h&les t]m9ate ) small r+s = atta*m5t by a *a9 to ! girdle4 ,9 ! ,l\vre is an int]e/+ p5d5t mirror-case1 or r back ( a mirror1 =m$ ( an oval plaque ( glass encru/$ ) designs 9 enamel on gold 7mail en rsille sur v]re71#afi be>+ ! inscription ,grace d$ans1 le lis-ha4 #afi ,comp>e pp4 #bic & #big4 ,see ,d>cel 7,a471 ,notice sur maux et de l'orfvr]ie 7,l\vre71 p4 #ha4 ,see also ,lab>te 7,j471 ,les arts indu/riels 7#bnd ed41 ,,ii1 p4 #acf1 #ahgc71 ,l'maill]ie cloisonne sur cri/al4 ,small books1 ma9ly devotional1 7 also worn at ! girdle4 ,x appe>s to h be5 a common practice = ladies to c>ry su* books1 & 9 ,lyly's ,euphues m5tion is made ( ! ,engli% damoselles :o h !yr bookes ty$ to _! gyrdles4 ,que5 ,elizabe? _h sev]al4 ,among/ ! juelles giv5 to h] ,maje/ie at ,newy]e's-tyde1 #aehb1 0 a litle boke ( golde enamul$1 g>ni%$ & furni%$ ) smale diamondes & rubyes1 ) claspes1 & all hang+ at a *ayne ( golde4 ,! inv5tory ( ! jewels ( ! ,du*ess ( ,som]set1 wid[ ( ! ,protector1 9 #aehg1 likewise conta9s a booke ( golde inamyl$ blacke4 ,two draw+s = small p5d5t books int5d$ to be execut$ 9 niello or black enamel appe> among/ ,holbe9's designs = jewell]y 9 ! ,briti% ,museum2 & ! ,e>l ( ,romney possesses a small manuscript ,pray] ,book 9 b9d+ ( enamell$ gold ( ! same /yle4 ,! mo/ magnific5t book-cov] 9 exi/5ce1 provid$ ) loops = hang+ by a *a9 to ! girdle1 is "o pres]v$ 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4 ,x is ( enamell$1 rep\ss gold1 & has be5 ascrib$ to ,cell9i4 ,( less beauty1 ?\gh ( great int]e/ z an example ( ,engli% "w1 is ! gold b9d+ ( a p5d5t ,pray] ,book 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,! subjects on ! sides1 rais$ & enamell$1 are ! ,braz5 ,s]p5t1 & ! ,judgm5t ( ,solomon1 ) ,engli% inscriptions ar\nd4 ,x is said to be ! "w ( ,george ,h]iot ( ,ed9burgh2#agj & !re is a tradition t x 0 worn by ,que5 ,elizabe?4 ,:atev] associations ?is object may h _h ) ,elizabe?1 !re is bett] au?ority = su* ) reg>d to ! small book ( pray]s1 ! prop]ty ( ,"l ,fitzh>d+e1 & "o ( ! ,hunsdon heirlooms4 ,?is v int]e/+ ,engli% jewel1 measur+ #b by #b in*es1 is ( gold1 inlaid ) black enamel1 ) a rosette ( :ite enamel at ea* corn]4 ,! c5tre ( "o cov] is decorat$ ) transluc5t r$ & gre5 enamel1 t ( ! o!r ) a %ell cameo4 ,x conta9s ! la/ pray] ( ,k+ ,edw>d ,,vi 9 ,,ms4 writt5 on vellum4 ,! title runs3 ,! ,pray] ( ,kynge ,edw>d ! ,,vi :i* he made ! vj ( ,julij1 #aeec1 & ! vij y]e ( 8 raigne1 iij h[res be=e 8 de!1 to him selfe1 8 eyes be+ clos$1 & ?9k+e none _h h]d him1 ! xvj y]e ( 8 age4 ,! book 0 worn by ,que5 ,elizabe? at h] girdle1 & came into ! ,b]keley family ?r\gh h] c\s91 ,"l ,hunsdon 7,pl4 ,,xxxv1 #g74 #agj ,see p4 #cja4 ,! ,e>l ( ,leice/]1 x is record$1 pres5t$ ,que5 ,elizabe? on ,new ,ye>'s ,day1 #aeha1 ) a long gold *a9 set ) diamonds & hang+ !reat a r\nde clocke fullie g>ni%$ ) dyamonodes1 & an app5dante ( diamondes hang+ !>at4 ,?\gh occasionally worn ?us susp5d$ f ! neck-*a91 wat*es appe> to h be5 m frequ5tly c>ri$ at ! girdle--a position some:at simil> to t :i* !y subsequ5tly occupi$ ^u ! *atela9e4 ,! hon\r ( ! inv5tion ( portable timepieces is probably due to ,pet] ,h5le91 ( ,nuremb]g1 9 ! la/ qu>t] ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 b x 0 n till a c5tury lat] t !y came into any?+ l g5]al use4 ,! cases1 :i* receiv$ ! same beautiful enri*m5t 9 ! way ( enamel-"w & preci\s /ones z 0 be/[$ on o!r p]sonal ornam5ts ( ! "t1 7 made j\r to emit ! s\nd ( ! tick+ & /rik+1 & ! lid 0 pi]c$ ) an ap]ture ov] ea* h\r1 ?r\gh :i* ! position ( ! h& might be se54 ,! mak]s ( ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies endeav\r$ to v>y z mu* z possible bo? ! figure ( ! ma*9e & ! mat]ial 9 :i* x 0 plac$4 ,n only squ>e1 oval1 octagonal1 & cruci=m wat*es occur1 b "s 9 su* fanciful %apes z dea?'s-heads1 books1 %ells1 acorns1 tulips1 pe>s1 etc2 :ile rock cry/al 7to r5d] ! works visible7 & o!r /ones 7 (t5 conv]t$ into cases4 ,oval wat*es1 kn[n z ,nuremb]g eggs1 are usually reckon$ among ! e>lie/1 b ?is title 0 n giv5 to wat*es till "s "t aft] _! inv5tion1 & z a matt] ( fact1 accord+ to ,dr4 ,re 7,nrnb]g1 p4 #agb71 all egg-wat*es t h be5 pres]v$ belong to ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,9 ,holl>'s set ( plates ( ! ,f\r ,seasons1 dat$ #afda1 ! lady repres5t+ ,summ] has on h] left side dep5d+ f h] girdle an object ( ?is %ape1 app>5tly a wat*4 ,! mo/ important p5d5t ornam5t to ! girdle1 f ! pres5t po9t ( view1 is ! pom&]1 ! e>ly hi/ory ( :i* has already be5 allud$ to4 ,?r\gh\t ! sixte5?1 & until ab\t ! middle ( ! c5tury foll[+1 ! pom&] =m$ an almo/ inv>iable adjunct to ! girdle1 & 0 occasionally1 9 ! case ( m51 hung to ! long & heavy *a9s worn at t p]iod r\nd ! neck4#aga #aga ,i w h my pom&] ( mo/ sweet smell1 ,also my *a9s ( gold to hang ab\t my necke4 ,book ( ,rob9 ,consci5ce 7circa #afjj74 ,mo/ ( ! p5dants /ill t]m$ pom&]s 71 z has be5 already not$1 9 reality cases = sc5ts or diff]5t cosmetics2 b f _! fruit-l %ape1 ?\gh (t5 innoc5t ( ! orig9al pom&] ball1 !y h reta9$ ! title1 b solely1 x w\ld seem1 9 our own language#agb 7,pl4 ,,xxxi1 #g74 #agb ,! only mod]n ,fr5* ^w = ! pom&] is cassolette4 ,9 ,g]man & ,italian !re is a t5d5cy to revive ! old titles ,bisamapfel & ,oldano4 ,,lat] ,,& ,,mod]n ,,jewell]y ,,*apt] ,,xxx ,,sev5te5?-,,c5tury ,,jewell]y 7,,g5]al7 ,?r\gh ! :ole jewell]y ( ! late ,r5aissance !re runs a gradual & pr(\nd *ange ( ta/e4 ,sl[ly & by imp]ceptible /ages ! e>li] /yle1 ) its m9ute enamell$ figures 9 high relief1 gives place to a desire = sp>kl+ diamonds1 & a pleasure 9 ! glitt] ( facet$ /ones4 ,9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 diamonds1 rubies1 & o!r /ones play$ a comp>atively insignificant "p 9 jewell]y1 & 7 priz$ ma9ly = _! decorative value1 b dur+ ! c\rse ( ! sev5te5? c5tury a m prom95t rle 0 gradually conc$$ to preci\s /ones4 ,us$ s+ly at fir/1 9 table-cut =m1 to give a c5tre ( int]e/ or a note ( col\r1 !y came f9ally to be arrang$ 9 juxtaposition & long r[s4 ,a complete *ange 0 br\ght ab\t 9 ! :ole "* ( jewell]y by ! prom95ce ?us giv5 to ! preci\s /one--a position x has reta9$ ev] s9ce4 ,f ! comm5cem5t ( ! sev5te5? c5tury ,g]many began to lose ! position :i*1 dur+ ! great] "p ( ! c5tury previ\s1 %e _h occupi$ z a jewel-produc+ c5tre2 :ile ! ,?irty ,ye>s' ,w>1 by h&icapp+ h] indu/ries1 caus$ ! jewell]s to seek employm5t else:]e4 ,x 0 ma9ly f ,france t ! new ideas 9 ! =m ( ornam5ts emanat$4 ,! ,fr5* are =tunate 9 possess+ sep>ate words to di/+ui% diff]5t k9ds ( jewell]y3 bij\t]ie1 a g5]al t]m appli$ to all jewell]y =m$ ( gold1 enamels1 & preci\s /ones2 & joaill]ie1 us$ = jewell]y compos$ ( /ones along ) a m9imum ( metal-"w4 ,by ! revolution ( ta/e 9 ! lat] days ( ! ,r5aissance ! joailli] gradually sup]s$$ ! bij\ti]2 :ile ! two crafts ( ! silv]smi? & ! jewell] replac$ ! anci5t craft ( ! goldsmi?4 ,*anges 9 ! mode ( we>+ clo!s1 & 9 ! mat]ials employ$ = !m1 _h an enorm\s influ5ce on jewell]y4 ,9 place ( ! velvet & brocade t prevail$ dur+ ! ,r5aissance1 damask came to be worn1 toge!r ) an extravagant ta/e = lace & ribbons4 ,! we>+ ( ! silk5 /uffs t began to be issu$ f ! factories ( ,lyons1 & ( ! lace t =m$ _! accompanim5t1 necessitat$ ! use ( ornam5ts m 9 keep+ ) ^! mat]ials2 ) ! result t ! jewell]y ( ! p]iod assum$ an op5 & lace-l "*1 suitable also = ! display ( preci\s /ones4 ,at fir/ col\r$ /ones 7 us$--! ruby1 sapphire1 & ! em]ald2 b soon ! diamond held sole possession ( ! field4 ,9 ,r5aissance ornam5ts ?is latt] gem play$ only a second>y "p1 & 0 employ$ solely = ! sake ( contra/1 b x n[ appe>$ z ! *ief object 9 view1 & =m$ ! ornam5t by itself1 all o!r p>ts ( ! jewel1 ! sett+1 & possible addition ( o!r /ones1 be+ :olly subord9ate to x4 ,= ! fir/ g5]al employm5t ( ! diamond 9 jewell]y "o mu/ look back to ! fifte5? c5tury1 to ! inv5tion ( ! art ( cutt+ t /one1 :i* is g5]ally cr$it$1 9 spite ( ,laborde's op9ion to ! contr>y1 to ,l\is de ,b]ghem ( ,bruges 9 ! ye> #adge4 ,f t date until ! beg9n+ ( ! sev5te5? c5tury e diamond1 z is se5 bo? by jewels & _! designs1 0 "o ( two =ms3 ei!r ! po9t1 a f\r-sid$ pyramid produc$ by poli%+ ! faces ( ! native octah$ral cry/al ( diamond & mak+ !m exactly true & regul>2 or ! table1 9 :i* ! po9t ( ! cry/al is r$uc$ to a squ>e or oblong plane1 ! opposite extremity be+ also 9 plane =m1 b ( small] ext5t1 ) slop+ facet$ edges4 ,?is simple cutt+ did s little to augm5t ! brilliance ( ! diamond t ! jewell]s ( ! sixte5? c5tury _h to dep5d on ! t9ctura or foil+ ( ! /one1 9 :i* art ,cell9i 9 8 treatise1 ) 8 *>act]i/ic appreciation ( 8 own m]its1 tells u t he p>ticul>ly excell$4 ,! *ange ( ta/e 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury may be attribut$ to ! op5+ up ( ! diamond fields ( ,golconda on ! s\!rn bord]s ( ! ,/ate ( ,hyd]abad1 at ! beg9n+ ( t c5tury1 & to ! ent]prise ( ! ,fr5* travell]s1 ,tav]ni]1 ,*>d91 & o!rs1 :o1 dur+ _! frequ5t voyages to ,p]sia & ,india1 dealt l>gely 9 preci\s /ones4 ,^! travell]s succe$$ 9 e/abli%+ new comm]cial relations1 :i* l$ to ! introduction into ,europe ( abundance ( preci\s /ones & p>ticul>ly diamonds2 :ile ! n>ratives ( _! j\rneys1 furni%+ m exact k ( ! quality & value ( ! products ( ! ,ea/1 attract$ t[>ds preci\s /ones a new int]e/4 ,ow+ to ! abundance ( mat]ial import$ f ! ,ea/1 ! m>ket = preci\s /ones assum$ an entirely diff]5t aspect2 :ile ! quantity & beauty ( ! mat]ial ?us at _! disposal spurr$ on ! /one-cutt]s t[>ds ! improvem5t ( _! te*nique1 until at ! end ( ! c5tury !y arriv$ at ! true cutt+ ( ! diamond4 ,besides ! po9t1 :i* 0 b r>ely us$1 ! table-cut diamond alone 0 employ$ until ! comm5cem5t ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,ab\t t "t !re came into use ! rose1 a half-cry/al1 flat at ! base & ) a convex top cov]$ ) a numb] ( small facets4 ,/ones facet$ 9 ?is mann] 7 at fir/ mo/ly small & unimportant & cut v irregul>ly into f\r or six facets4 ,betwe5 ! ye>s #afda & #afdc1 ,c>d9al ,maz>91 a great lov] ( ! diamond1 is said to h enc\rag$ ! promotion ( exp]im5ts by ! ,dut* lapid>ies :i* l$ to ! true rose cutt+4 ,anyh[1 a m sy/ematic me?od ( facet+ 9 sixte5 facets--! taille en seize--began to be employ$ ab\t t "t4 ,?is process1 ?\gh x left mu* to be desir$1 0 an imm5se improvem5t1 & set =? ! qualities ( ! /one 9 a way t _h n be5 possible by ! =ms previ\sly 9 use4 ,roses1 toge!r ) tables1 z ! designs ( ,gilles ,lg> & 8 contempor>ies %[1 la/$ until ! inv5tion ( ! brilliant at ! comm5cem5t ( ! eighte5? c5tury by ! ,v5etian1 ,v9c5zo ,p]uzzi1 ?\gh rose cutt+ 0 popul> = "s "t aft]1 & is /ill us$ = c]ta9 /ones4 ,! rose leap$ into fa%ion at its fir/ appe>ance1 & ! ta/e = diamonds & o!r preci\s /ones seems to h dom9at$ "u ,l\is ,,xiii & ,l\is ,,xiv1 :5 !y became ! pr9cipal objects 9 jewell]y4 ,gold 0 work$ into ! =m ( g>l&s1 fl[]s1 & all sorts ( designs = ! purpose ( m\nt+ preci\s /ones & sett+ (f _! beauty4 ,! enorm\s increase ( luxury 9 ?is direction 0 entirely 9 keep+ ) ! :ole conception ( an absolute mon>*y z develop$ by ,l\is ,,xiv1 :o made x ! duty ( ! gr&ees ( ,france & ,spa9 to we> _! :ole prop]ty1 9 ! =m ( glitt]+ gems1 & to c>ry ! value ( l&s & =e/s ^u _! own & _! wives' app>el :5 !y appe>$ be=e ! eyes ( _! sov]eign4 ,?\gh actual examples ( ! sev5te5?-c5tury jewell]y are r>e1 at any rate 9 public collections1 we c become acqua9t$ ) its *>act]i/ics by ! num]\s pr9ts bequea!d by ! goldsmi?s & draughtsm5 ( ! "t4 ,^! pr9ts1 l ^? ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 7 n inv>iably ! "w ( _! design]s1 s9ce x 0 no uncommon practice = ! ma/]-goldsmi? to h 8 designs multipli$ = use 9 8 own work%op1 & = g5]al circulation1 by plac+ !m 9 ! h&s ( an engrav]4 ,z a rule ! nationalities ( exi/+ jewels may be 9 "s measure det]m9$ by means ( ! designs f :i* !y 7 execut$4 ,b x is (t5 difficult to make cle> di/9ctions 9 ?is mann]1 ow+ to ! cont9ual arti/ic int]*ange :i* br\ght ! fa%ions ( "o place to ano!r1 & caus$ ! me?ods & ideas ( ! craftsm5 to become common prop]ty4 ,! bi-l+ual inscriptions :i* "o f9ds on ! frontispieces ( _m ( ! patt]n-books or sets ( designs !n publi%$1 prove t !y 7 int5d$ = int]national use4 ,! fir/ attempts to base ! composition ( ! ornam5t exclusively ^u ! effect ( /ones arrang$ 9 def9ite =ms1 )\t grant+ ! sett+ ( ! pla/ic metal any indep5d5t "p1 are f\nd 9 "s ( ! pr9ts ( ,daniel ,mignot1 ( ! ye> #aeij4 ,mignot1 probably ( ,fr5* extraction1 0 a goldsmi? ( ,augsburg1 :]e betwe5 ! ye>s #aeij & #afaf he produc$ a numb] ( highly important designs = jewell]y1 :i* =m a l9k betwe5 ! old & ! new] /yles4 ,:ile foll[+ ! arti/s ( ! late sixte5? c5tury 9 ! repres5tation ( figure designs 9 c>t\*e-%ap$ ornam5ts =m$ ( flat /rapwork curves *>act]i/ic ( ! old] s*ool1 he pres5ts engrav+s ( p5dants1 e>r+s1 & aigrettes1 9 :i* ! /ones are set 9 juxtaposition4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xxxix ,,engrav$ ,,designs ,,= ,,jewell]y ,,by ,,daniel ,,mignot ,t ! transition to ! new] =ms 0 sl[1 is %[n 9 ! works ( ! goldsmi?-engrav] ( ,am/]dam1 ^: models = p5dants1 sign$ ) ! initials ,p4 ,r4 ,k41 & dat$ #afji & #afag1 are =m$ ( elaborate op5 scrollwork ( t5dril design1 almo/ de/itute ( /ones4 ,exhibit+ features m 9 keep+ ) ^? ( ,mignot are ! designs ( ,paul ,birck5hultz ( ,frank=t-on-!-,ma9 7#afag74 ,!y are ( f9e quality1 & take ! =m ( aigrettes & e>r+s set ) preci\s /ones & elaborate oval p5dants t]m9at+ ) pe>ls & ornam5t$ ) scroll ornam5ts int5d$ = execution 9 enamel 7,pl4 ,,xl1 #d74 ,birck5hultz is ! la/ ( ! ,g]man s*ool ( design]s to model 8 "w on ! productions ( ! sixte5?-c5tury ma/]s4 ,h5ce=? "o mu/ look = designs *iefly to ,france1 :]e an entirely new type ( ornam5t = jewell]y1 su* z is f\nd 9 no o!r art production ( ! "t1 0 br\ght into exi/5ce by endeav\rs to associate leaf patt]ns ) a numb] ( /ones4 ,its *>act]i/ic is ! use ( a sort ( pea-pod or husk ornam5t1 t]m$ ,s*ot5ornam5tik 9 ,g]man1 & kn[n g5]ally by ! ,fr5* "n ( g5re cosse de pois 7pea-pod /yle74 ,9 ! designs ( ! "t ?is =mal ornam5t is l>gely employ$ = elaborate aigrettes2 b ow+ to ! jewels execut$ f su* designs hav+ be5 set ) /ones1 ! result has be5 t *ange ( fa%ion has suff]$ sc>cely a jewell$ example to survive4 ,z a consequ5ce1 ! objects exi/+ at ! pres5t day *iefly repres5t enamell$ m9iature-cases & p5dants4 ,! numb] & v>iety ( engrav$ designs = ?is k9d ( ornam5t 9 ! =m ( jewell$ b\quets or palmettes1 *iefly = aigrettes1 dat+ f ! fir/ half ( ! sev5te5? c5tury is surpris+1 consid]+ t x rema9$ a comp>atively %ort "t 9 use4 ,"o ( ! *ief advocates ( ?is /yle is ,pi]re ,m>*ant1 :o work$ 9 ,p>is ab\t #afbc4 ,8 r>e designs = aigrettes1 & wrea?s = ! bord]s ( p5dants1 are mo/ graceful1 & %[ a =m ( leaf ornam5t :i* is extremely happily adapt$ = mat]ials 9 :i* ! preci\s /one _h to play a prom95t "p 7p4 #cjf74 ,ano!r ,fr5*man :o employ$ x is ,pi]re ,lab>re 7#afcj71 goldsmi? to ,l\is ,,xiv1 :o1 toge!r ) a well-kn[n jewell]1 ,juli5 ,defonta9e1 _h ap>tm5ts 9 ! ,l\vre4 ,among/ o!r ,fr5* design]s 7 ,jacques ,caill>d 7#afbg71 ,baltas> ,lem]si] 7#afbf-afcj71 ,claude ,riv>d 7#aeib-afej71 ,franois ,lefebure 7#afce-affa71 & ,gdon ,lg> 7#afae-afgf71 to :om z orfvre-esmailleur1 toge!r ) ,pi]re ,ba91 ,l\is ,,xiv 9 #afga1 on ! sugge/ion ( ,colb]t1 grant$ qu>t]s 9 ! ,l\vre4 ,designs ( ! same nature 7 execut$ 9 ,/rasburg by ,p4 ,symony 7#afba7 & ,hans ,mosba* 7#afbf71 & 9 ,holl& by ,jacques ,hon]vogt 7#afbe74 ,! =egr\nds or bases ( ne>ly all ^! engrav+s are rem>kable = ! l&scapes & = ! qua9t & vigor\s g5re figures 9 ! /yle ( ! pa9t]-engrav]1 ,jacques ,callot1 t enliv5 !m4 ,( all ! goldsmi?s ( ! "t ! be/ kn[n is ,gilles ,lg> ( ,*aumont-en-,bassigny1 :o 0 jewell] to ,l\is ,,xiv1 & work$ 9 ,p>is ab\t #affc4 ,8 s]ies ( designs1 entitl$ ,livre des ,ouvrages d',orfvr]ie1 is p]haps ! mo/ int]e/+ ( ! k9d produc$ dur+ ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,^! f9e compositions1 :5 =m$ ( preci\s /ones1 %[ knots & int]lac+s = clasps1 p5dants1 & e>r+s1 9 :i* diamonds are fully display$ 9 rose-cut =ms4 ,z models = objects n compos$ entirely ( /ones1 we f9d seals1 r+s1 bracelets & *a9s decorat$ ) ribbons & b[s m+l$ ) monograms1 & emblems1 su* z dea?'s-heads4 ,toge!r ) ^! appe> ta/eful arrangem5ts = enamel-"w 9 ! =m ( natural fl[]s ( great *>m & delicacy4 ,to ^! la/ ref]5ce w be made lat]4 ,contempor>y ) ,lg> 0 ! pa9t] & engrav] ,bal?az> ,moncornet1 :o work$ at ,r\5 & ,p>is4 ,8 book ( designs1 ( :i* he 0 probably ! inv5tor z well z engrav]1 entitl$ ,livre n\veau de t\tes sortes d'ouvrages d'orfvries1 0 publi%$ ab\t #afgjagc4 ,! jewels1 9 ! =m ( p5dants1 e>r+s1 & broo*es1 are compos$ ( /ones set 9 v>i\s ways2 ! la/ plate is a m9iature portrait ( ,l\is ,,xiv set z a broo*4 ,all 8 designs are accompani$ by g>l&s ( natural fl[]s4 #agc ,reproduc$ by ,qu>it* 9 #ahhh4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xl ,,designs ,,= ,,jewell]y ,,by ,,gilles ,l,,g> ,,& ,,paul ,,birck5hultz ,complete z 0 ! *ange :i* 0 br\ght ab\t ow+ to ! prom95ce giv5 to ! preci\s /one1 x mu/ n be suppos$ t ! enamell]'s art 0 by any means neglect$4 ,?\gh x _c be comp>$ ) t 9 ! be/ productions ( ! ,r5aissance1 ! enamel-"w appli$ to sev5te5?-c5tury jewell]y is1 nev]!less1 wor?y ( close att5tion4 ,enamel execut$ by ! *amplev me?od 0 mu* employ$4 ,! te*nical process kn[n z *amplev 0 p]=m$ 9 two ways4 ,by "o me?od ! surface ( ! gold 0 simply incis$ ) designs1 & ! grooves ?us made fill$ ) enamel4 ,by ano!r me?od only ?9 l9es ( ! metal 7 res]v$ to =m ! design1 & ! rema9d] ( ! field cut out to receive ! enamel4 ,?is latt] sy/em resembles 9 appe>ance ! well-kn[n cloisonn2 b ! metal /rips t =m ! p>titions betwe5 ! enamel1 in/ead ( be+ ins]t$1 are a solid "p ( ! metal base4 ,commonly employ$ on jewell]y f ! middle ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 x rema9$ 9 g5]al fav\r1 toge!r ) ! simpl] =m ( *amplev1 till ab\t ! ?ird decade ( ! sev5te5? c5tury1 :5 x gave place to enamel-"w ( an entirely diff]5t k9d4 ,= jewell]y int5d$ to be c>ri$ out by ?is *amplev me?od1 or on r>e occasions to be cov]$ ) transluc5t enamels1 we h at our s]vice aga9 a numb] ( dat$ designs4 ,^! engrav+s1 kn[n z ,s*w>zornam5te or niello ornam5ts1 are 9 ! nature ( silh\ettes4 ,! patt]ns1 res]v$ 9 :ite ^u a black gr\nd1 are compos$ ( curves ( flat & brok5 /rapwork4 ,! designs are occasionally = complete jewels1 b mo/ ( !m take ! =m ( v small motives int5d$ z patt]ns = ! %\ld]s ( f+] r+s1 or = ! bord]s1 frames1 or o!r details ( jewels4 ,"s engrav$ plates are made up entirely ( su* motives2 on o!r plates !y appe> z details1 ei!r )9 a complete design or ^u ! field outside x4 ,g]many & ! ,ne!rl&s furni% ! e>lie/ examples ( ^!4 ,sev]al dat+ f ! latt] "p ( ! sixte5? c5tury are by monogrammi/s1 :o sign$ _! engrav+s ) _! initials1 & ^: names are mo/ly unkn[n--su* z ! ,g]man ma/] ,a4 ,c4 ( ! ye> #aeih4 ,among recognis$ engrav]s 9 ?is /yle are ! foll[+3--,( ! ,g]man s*ool3 ,arnold ,jrg 7#aehf-aeif71 ,corv9ianus ,saur 7#aeij-aeig71 ! r>e ,hans ,h5sel ( ,sagan 7#aeii71 ,daniel ,haill] 7#afjd71 ,jonas ,b5tz5 7#afae71 & ,daniel ,mignot 7#aeij7 & ,p4 ,symony 7#afba71 bo? ( :om plac$ ^! motives on ! field ( _! plates4 ,( ! ,ne!rl&i% s*ool is ! well-kn[n ,mi*el ,le ,blon1 call$ ,blondus1 goldsmi? at ! ,c\rt ( ,que5 ,*ri/9a ( ,sw$51 :o 0 born at ,frank=t-on-!-,ma9 9 #aehg & di$ at ,am/]dam 9 #afef4 ,8 designs 9 silh\ette1 ! e>lie/ ( :i*1 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 is dat$ #afje1agd 7 9 great dem&1 & appe> n only on knife-h&les1 b on oval & octagonal box-%ap$ p5dants--presumably wat*-cases4 ,also ( ! same s*ool are3 ! r>e ma/]1 ,hans van ,ghem]t 7#aehe71 ,hans de ,bull 7#aeij71 ! monogrammi/ ,p4 ,r4 ,k4 7#afji71 & ,guillaume de la ,quewell]ie ( ,am/]dam 7#afaa-afce74 ,9 addition !re is ,giovanni ,batti/a ,co/ant9i ( ,rome1 :o publi%$ 8 ,ornem5ti p] lavor>e ,giorje 9 #afbb & #afbe4 #agd ,burl+ton ,magaz9e1 ,,viii1 p4 #acj1 #aije4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xli ,,patt]ns ,,= ,,jewell]y ,,& ,,enamell$ ,,jewels ,,f ,,simil> ,,designs ,! ,fr5* goldsmi?-engrav]s1 :o produc$ designs 9 ! silh\ette mann] int5d$ = jewels t 7 to be enamell$ by ! *amplev me?od1 include ,jehan ,vov]t 7#afjb71 an anonym\s engrav] ,a4 ,d4 7#afjh71 ,jacques ,hurtu 7#afad-afai71 ,/ephanus ,c>t]on ( ,*tillon 7#afae71 ,pi]re ,nol9 7#afbj71 & ,jean ,t\t9 7#afai7 & 8 son ,h5ri 7#afbh74 ,! mo/ important ( ^! is ! goldsmi? & enamell] ,jean ,t\t9 ( ,*teaudun1 ^: plates--six 9 numb]1 dat$ #afah & #afai--;are fill$ ) *>m+ motives = wat*-cases or lockets1 to be c>ri$ out 9 enamel4 ,!y are ornam5t$ ) patt]ns res]v$ 9 :ite on black gr\nd 9 ! =m ( trail+ leaves & t5drils1 p>tly 9 ! pea-pod /yle1 & accompani$ by lively g5re figures 9 v>i\s attitudes4 ,p]haps ! mo/ attractive ( ^! plates is t :i* repres5ts a jewell]--probably ,t\t9 himself--fir+ a jewel :i* he holds 9 ! furnace by a pair ( long tongs1 :ile above is figur$ a model ( ! actual jewel--an octagonal box-l p5dant 7p4 #bhi74 ,t\t91 :o appe>s to h be5 an exp]im5t] 9 enamels1 is entitl$ to di/9ction z ! discov]] ( a new process ( us+ !m4 ,! process consi/$ 9 cov]+ a plate ( gold or copp] ) an opaque mono*romatic enamel1 on :i* designs 7 pa9t$ ) col\rs1 opaque & fusible1 & ( great] v>iety ?an _h previ\sly be5 employ$4 ,?is me?od ( enamel pa9t+1 ext5sively us$ = jewell]y1 prov$ to be peculi>ly suitable to ! repres5tation ( natural fl[]s :i* came into high fav\r ab\t ! same "t4 ,! employm5t ( naturali/ic fl[] designs1 z display$ on ! m>g9s ( manuscripts1 0 "o ( ! features ( late ,go?ic art4 ,! same t5d5cy ) reg>d to fl[]s 0 manife/$ on ! enamell$ jewell]y ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 ! mo/ /rik+ example ( :i* is ! wond]ful necklace se5 on ! ,flemi% portrait ( ,m>ia ,b>oncelli 9 ! ,uffizi ,gall]y4 ,r5aissance ornam5ts on ! :ole did n fav\r naturali/ic floral patt]ns1 ?\gh fl[]s enamell$ 9 full relief are occasionally f\nd1 z on ! bord] ( ! ,pho5ix ,jewel 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,! g5]al return 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! sev5te5? c5tury to fl[] designs = ! decoration ( jewell]y is associat$ ) a curi\s phase 9 ! social hi/ory ( ! "t t accompani$ ! deep int]e/ !n tak5 9 fl[]s & horticulture4 ,among fl[]s1 ( :i* ! ,dut* h ev] be5 en?usia/ically fond1 & nev] tir$ ( gr[+ & ( pa9t+1 ! mo/ prom95t position 0 occupi$ by ! tulip4 ,f ab\t ! ye> #afcd ! cultivation ( ! tulip became a p]fect craze 9 ,holl&1 & ,tulipomania l a viol5t epidemic seiz$ ^u all classes ( ! community4 ,gambl+ ( an almo/ unp>allel$ nature 0 c>ri$ on 9 ! bulbs1 & ! fl[] became fa%ionable ev]y:]e4 ,9 ! b\quets :i* ! enamell]s arrang$ ) great ta/e1 & pa9t$ ) extraord9>y skill1 ! tulip is always prom95t4 ,?is & _m o!r fl[]s1 & occasionally fruits1 7 pa9t$ 9 ! same mann] z a picture1 on an enamel gr\nd ( uni=m col\r--g5]ally :ite1 & sometimes pale blue1 yell[1 or black4 ,small plaques enamell$ & pa9t$ ?us are popul>ly kn[n by ! "n ( ,l\is ,treize enamels1 ?\gh ! majority ( !m 7 produc$ aft] ,l\is ,,xiii's dea? 9 #afdc4 ,ab\t #afdj x became ! cu/om occasionally to model ! design 9 relief ) a pa/e ( :ite enamel1 :i* 0 aft]w>ds pa9t$ ) vitre\s col\rs accord+ to nature4 ,t[>ds ! middle ( ! c5tury ! backgr\nd ( ! fl[]s 0 pi]c$ & cut away1 s t e s+le fl[]1 exquisitely modell$ & col\r$1 /ood out by itself4 ,9 addition to tulips ( e v>iety1 & hyac9?s1 sunfl[]s1 & roses1 all k9ds ( lilies 7 9 fav\r1 especially ! tig]-lily1 ! cr[n imp]ial1 & diff]5t species ( fritill>ies1 ^: beautifully spott$ or *equ]$ blossoms 7 r5d]$ 9 _! natural col\rs ) /rik+ fidelity4 ,fl[]s execut$ 9 ?is reali/ic /yle = jewell]y 7 arrang$ *iefly 9 g>l&s & fe/oons1 9 ! mann] ( ! wrea?s pa9t$ by ,jan ,brueghel r\nd sev]al ( ,rub5s' pictures1 ! fl[] pieces ( su* ,dut* & ,flemi% pa9t]s z ,jan de ,heem1 ,van d5 ,hecke1 ,daniel ,segh]s1 & ,van ,?iel51 & ! wood c>v+s ( ,gr9l+ ,gibbons 7himself ,dut* by bir?71 :i* display ! same rem>kable realism4 ,among ! goldsmi?s & draughtsm5 ( ! "t :o h left designs = jewels 9 pa9t$ enamel are ! ,g]mans ,he9ri* ,raab & ,johann ,paulus ,hau]1 bo? goldsmi?s ( ,nuremb]g4 ,_! engrav+s1 ) natural fl[] ornam5tation v f9ely design$ & execut$1 7 publi%$ ab\t #afej4 ,!y comprise crosses1 tuis1 scissor1 wat*1 & sc5t cases1 & p5dants--/>- & b[-%ap$1 & set ea* ) a p5d5t pe>l4 ,"w 9 ! same direction by ! arti/s ( ! ,fr5* s*ool is ( great importance4 ,gdon ,lg>1 ?\gh he practis$ ! pea-pod /yle1 is ! fir/ to %[ a decid$ pref]5ce = natural fl[]s 9 8 engrav+s1 :i* date f ab\t #afdj4 ,he is foll[$ by ?ree fam\s ma/]s ( fl[] ornam5t--,bal?az> ,moncornet1 ,gilles ,lg>1 & ,jean ,vauqu]4 ,vauqu] work$ at ,blois betwe5 #afgj & #agjj1 & l _m o!r engrav]s ( jewell]s' designs1 0 a jewell] & enamel pa9t] by pr(ession4 ,he 0 a pupil ( ,morlire ( ,orleans1 :o also work$ at ,blois4 ,8 f9e plates ( fl[]s & ornam5tal foliage1 engrav$ aft] 8 own designs & entitl$ ,livre de fleurs propres p\r orfvres et graveurs1 7 publi%$ 9 #afhj4age ,vauqu] 0 an enamel pa9t] ( pre-em95t ability1 & "o ( ! greate/ expon5ts ( ! day ( ! art ( repres5t+ natural fl[]s4 #age ,reproduc$ by ,qu>it* 9 #ahhh4 ,( ! designs ( ,moncornet 7c4 #afgj7 & ,gilles ,lg> 7c4 #affc7 = jewell$ ornam5ts we h already spok54 ,moncornet1 a great lov] ( fl[]s1 accompani$ 8 jewels by *>m+ g>l&s4 ,) him & ,vauqu] & ,lg> mu/ be associat$ ! r5[n$ enamel pa9t] ,jean ,petitot 7#afjg-afia71 :o 0 fir/ an enamell] ( jewell]y4 ,s highly skill$ 0 he z a pa9t] ( fl[] designs & foliage on r+s & o!r ornam5ts1 t on go+ ov] to ,engl& 9 #afce he ent]$ at once into ! s]vice ( ,*>les ,i1 :]e he br\ght to p]fection 8 fam\s enamell$ portraits4 ,sev]al actual examples h surviv$ ( ! enamel-"w ( ,gilles ,lg>1 ^: designs--! be/-kn[n ( ?is "t--reveal a *>m+ feel+ = natural fl[] ornam5ts4 ,8 *ef d'oeuvre is g5]ally consid]$ to be ! g>l& ( fl[]s pa9t$ 9 enamel 9 op5-"w relief t surr\nds a m9iature by ,petitot ( ! ,c\ntess d',olonne 9 ! collection ( ,major ,hol=d at ,dor*e/] ,h\se4 ,?is spl5did piece1 on :i* ! t9ts ( ! fl[]s are r5d]$ ) /rik+ fidelity1 0 =m]ly 9 ! collection ( a great ,fr5* connoisseur ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 ,p4 ,j4 ,m>iette4 ,at 8 dea? x pass$ into ! possession ( ,horace ,walpole1 :o c\nt$ x z "o ( 8 special treasures4 ,x jo9$ ! ,dor*e/] ,h\se collection aft] ! ,/rawb]ry ,hill sale 9 #ahdb4 ,if ?is magnific5t enamel-"w be by ! h& ( ,lg>1 & we may take ,m>iette's ^w = x t x is1#agf ?is clev] craftsman mu/ h work$ = ,petitot2 = ano!r v f9e example ( ! same k9d ( "w1 a wrea? ( enamell$ fl[]s f9ely modell$ & pa9t$1 surr\nds a m9iature by ,petitot 9 ! possession ( ! ,e>l ( ,d>trey4 #agf ,m>iette1 ,abec$>io1 ,,iv1 p4 #acc4 ,to sum up ! *>act]i/ic /yles ( sev5te5?-c5tury ornam5t :i* we h endeav\r$ to describe1 ! fir/ feature is ! g5]al pref]5ce = preci\s /ones1 & especially diamonds1 & ! use ( ! pea-pod ornam5t = display+ !m4 ,f ?is /yle1 practis$ by ,m>*ant & _m o!rs1 we pass1 secondly1 to ! ,s*w>zornam5te or silh\ette designs ( ,le ,blon & ,t\t9 employ$ = *amplev enamel4 ,?irdly comes ! developm5t ( naturali/ic fl[] designs1 & ! application ( ^! to ! pa9t$ ,l\is ,treize enamel evolv$ by ,t\t91 & p]fect$ by ,petitot1 ,vauqu]1 & ,lg>4 ,illu/ration3 ,jean ,t\t9 9 8 work%op1 fir+ an enamell$ jewel4 ,,*apt] ,,xxxi ,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury ,,jewell]y 7cont9u$7 ,,engl&1 ,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury ,! jewels ( ! sev5te5? c5tury1 z has be5 obs]v$1 are comp>atively r>e 9 public collections4 ,unlike ^? ( ! ,c9quec5to1 :i* f9d a m appropriate place 9 ! museum or collector's cab9et1 !y are admirably adapt$ = p]sonal use at ! pres5t day2 b until ! *ange ( ta/e ( ! la/ few ye>s 9 fav\r ( old "w1 ^! attractive objects1 ow+ to _! be+ set ) preci\s /ones ( intr9sic value1 suff]$ cruelly at ! h&s ( mod]n jewell]s 9 ! de/ructive process ( resett+4 ,p>tly = ?is reason x is less easy ?an x 0 ) ! jewell]y ( ! c5tury previ\s to notify extant examples ( all species ( ornam5ts4 ,_! ma9 features1 already describ$1 lie 9 a pref]5ce = preci\s /ones1 & = a /yle ( ornam5t :i*1 at fir/ =mal1 evolves into naturali/ic fl[] designs 9 pa9t$ enamel4 ,widespread luxury accompani$ ! l>ge importation ( preci\s /ones4 ,ladies made ea* new fte a pretext = great] extravagance & great] ef=ts to out%9e _! neighb\rs2 & ! ornam5t 9 :i* !y seem above all to h delight$ = ! be/ display ( _! weal? ( jewell]y 0 ! aigrette4 ,?is ornam5t1 ( :i* "s m5tion has be5 made 7p4 #bha71 g5]ally took ! =m ( a b\quet ( fl[]s on movable /alks1 compos$ ( clu/]s ( preci\s /ones 9 enamell$ gold1 accompani$ sometimes by a jewell$ knot1 & 0 fix$ 9 ! hair on all occasions ( c]emony4 ,a l>ge numb] ( ^! b\quets are m5tion$ 9 ! inv5tory ( ! ,fr5* cr[n jewels ( #afah4 ,9 default ( actual examples we mu/ rely on ! designs :i* ! jewell]s ( ! day publi%$ = !m1 & also on contempor>y portraits1 :i* fur!r illu/rate a pass+ mode = plait+ /r+s ( pe>ls ?r\gh ! hair4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xlii ,,sev5te5?-,,c5tury ,,enamell$ ,,p5dants ,( e>r+s1 on ! o!r h&1 a consid]able numb] ( examples h surviv$4 ,fr5* & ,engli% portraits %[ at fir/ only a l>ge pe>-%ap$ pe>l 9 ea* e>4 ,9 ! second half ( ! c5tury m elaborate e>r+s came into use4 ,spa91 :]e ^! ornam5ts h always be5 popul>1 produc$ at ! "t a numb] ( portraits exhibit+ e>r+s ( op5-"w set ) col\r$ /ones4 ,!y are 9 ! =m ( a rosette or b[-%ap$ ornam5t hung ) movable p5dants4 ,! engrav+s ( ,riv>d 7#afdf71 ,lefebure 7#afdg71 & ,gilles ,lg> 7#affc7 include designs = e>r+s2 ^? ( ! la/-nam$ be+ su* volum9\s jewels1 hung ) triple briolettes1 p5deloques1 or pe>ls1 t !y might easily be mi/ak5 = neck p5dants4 ,! majority ( e>r+s ( ?is p]iod1 n[ exi/+1 are ( ,spani%1 ,portuguese1 or ,italian orig94 ,! g5]al type ( e>r+ !n 9 use is well %[n 9 ,rembr&t's portrait ( ,h5drickje ,/(fels 7ab\t #afeb71 9 ! ,l\vre1 :]e x takes ! =m ( an elaborate p5dant t]m9at+ ) a big pe>l drop4 ,necklaces ( light op5-"w design are set ) diamonds or col\r$ /ones4 ,^! seldom h a special p5dant2 !y 71 9 fact1 fa/ disappe>+ to make room = r[s ( pe>ls4 ,jewell$ p5dants1 (t5 consi/+ ( two or m mobile p>ts1 7 frequ5tly atta*$ to a velvet b& t closely encircl$ ! ?roat4 ,m important p5dants ( ?is p]iod are ^? :i* take ! =ms ( m\nt$ engrav$ gems or enamell$ portraits1 or else ( m9iature cases or lockets beautifully enamell$4 ,! f9e/ s]ies ( m\nt$ gems is t 9 ! ,biblio?que ,nationale at ,p>is4 ,"s ( ! m\nts are execut$ 9 ! pea pod /yle 9 op5-"w2 o!rs are ornam5t$ ) *amplev enamel1 aft] ! niello designs 9 ! silh\ette mann]2 o!rs aga9 are ( natural fl[] designs 9 pa9t$ enamel4 ,!re is a notewor?y example at ,p>is ( ! pea-pod /yle--a cameo 7,no4 #gia7 ( ,l\is ,,xiii z an infant4 ,x is 9 an op5-"w frame ( opaque enamel--black1 d>k gre51 & :ite--( ab\t #afje1 :i* be>s a v close resemblance to "o ( ! publi%$ designs ( ,pi]re ,m>*ant4 ,9 ! ,gem ,room ( ! ,briti% ,museum is a /ill f9] example1 & "o ( ! mo/ spl5did jewels f ! fam\s ,m>lbor\gh ,collection4 ,x is ( op5-"w1 enamell$ :ite & gre53 ! husks or pods1 set ea* ) a small diamond1 are 9 gre51 & ! little pea ornam5ts issu+ !refrom are 9 :ite enamel 7,pl4 ,,xliv1 #ag74 ,! "w dates f ! fir/ ye>s ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,! gem x s]ves to enri*1 a f9e onyx cameo ( ,lucius ,v]us1 is slightly e>li]4 ,! *oice/ example ( pa9t$ enamel ( fl[] design 9 op5 relief is c]ta9ly ! m\nt+ or frame ( a magnific5t p5dant 7,no4 #ifa7 9 ! ,biblio?que ,nationale1 set ) a cameo ( ,lucrezia de' ,m$ici1 wife ( ,alfonso ,,ii1 ,duke ( ,f]r>a4 ,?is frame1 q unmat*$ = its ta/e & skill1 is =m$ ( a g>l& ( fl[]s1 op5-work$1 & enamell$ 9 ! utmo/ delicacy ) :ite1 pale yell[1 & light gre5 enamel1 height5$ ) r$di% t\*es 7,pl4 ,,xliii1 #f74 ,among o!r jewels ( ! same /yle1 ( :i* !re are q a numb]1 "o may m5tion ! sett+ ( an antique ,roman cameo 7,pl4 ,,xliv1 #ae71 & ! rev]se ( ! onyx ,george ( ,*>les ,,ii 7,pl4 ,,xxviii1 #a7 bo? ,engli% "w1 at ,w9dsor ,ca/le#agg4 ,besides ! two beautiful examples ( 8 "w already notic$ 7p4 #bhh71 x is usual to associate ) ,gilles ,lg> ! frame ( birds & fl[]s1 enamell$ black & :ite1 t surr\nds ,petitot's portrait ( ,l\is ,,xiv 9 ! ,jones ,collection at ,s\? ,k5s+ton4 ,! designs ( ,vauqu]1 also1 seem to h be5 foll[$ 9 _m simil> k9ds ( enamell$ jewels4 #agg ,^! are describ$ 9 ! ,connoiseur1 ,v1 p4 #bdc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xliii ,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury ,,enamell$ ,,m9iature ,,cases1 ,,lockets1 ,,etc4 ,! p5d5t m9iature-cases or lockets ( ! sev5te5? c5tury are ( great int]e/4 ,! be/ example ( ^? enri*$ ) *amplev enamel is ! ,lyte ,jewel 7p4 #cjc74 ,! pea-pod /yle is well %[n on ! back ( a m9iature-case conta9+ a female portrait by ,pet] ,oliv] 7#afja-afdg7 9 ! ,dyce ,collection at ,s\? ,k5s+ton 7,pl4 ,,xliii1 #b74 ,x is enamell$ en ple9 ) transluc5t gre5 on a gr\nd ( matt$ gold1 ) ! pea-pod patt]n 9 :ite1 aft] an engrav$ design by ! ,fr5* ornam5ti/ ,pi]re ,fir5s 7#afje-afbe74 ,?is same /yle ( ornam5t is se5 on a m9iature-case maill en rsille sur v]re#agh belong+ to ,mr4 ,pi]pont ,morgan4 ,enamel-"w aft] ! silh\ette engrav+s ( ! same p]iod is repres5t$ by "o ( its pr9cipal expon5ts1 ,jean ,t\t9 ( ,*teaudun 7#afah71 on ! front & back ( a m9iature-case 7,plate ,,xliii1 #a7 9 ! possession ( ,mr4 ,pi]pont ,morgan1 ornam5t$ ) designs en g5re cosse de pois res]v$ 9 gold on a gr\nd ( black enamel4 ,small plaques ( ,l\is ,treize enamel pa9t$ 9 natural col\rs on a mono*rome gr\nd 7 frequ5tly employ$ = m9iature-cases4 ,a consid]able numb] ( ^!1 ( bo? ,fr5* & ,g]man 7,augsburg7 "w1 exi/4 ,engli% "w is r>]3 an example1 ^u ! cov] ( a m9iature ( ,oliv] ,cromwell1 pa9t$ ) roses & leaves 9 natural col\rs on a :ite gr\nd1 is pres]v$ 9 ! ,univ]sity ,gall]ies1 ,ox=d4 ,enamell$ fl[] designs modell$ 9 relief1 sometimes on op5-"w gr\nd1 9 ! mann] ( ,vauqu] & ,lg>1 are also f\nd on lockets4 ,an exquisite little example1 inscrib$ ,o4,c4 #afec1 belongs to ,mr4 ,max ,ros5heim4 ,x conta9s an enamell$ m9iature ( ,oliv] ,cromwell4 #agh ,see pp4 #bgc & #big4 ,l ! aigrette1 an important jewel worn at ?is "t 0 a brea/ ornam5t1 t]m$ a ,svign1 aft] ! celebrat$ lady ( t "n4 ,?is ornam5t took ! =m ( a b[ or rosette ( op5-"w1 ( foliat$ design1 g5]ally ( silv]1 set ) small diamond spl9t]s4 ,z ! c5tury advanc$ ! "w set ) small /ones & diamond sp>ks 9 sub/antial m\nts 0 replac$ by op5-"w jewels1 kn[n z lazos jewels1 set ) l>ge flat /ones1 & ornam5ts =m$ ( sev]al pieces--an upp] "p ( ti$ b[ or knot %ape & hung ) p5dants--all set ) rose-cut /ones4 ,mu* ( ?is "w1 int5d$ = ! display ( diamonds & v>i\s col\r$ /ones 9 imitation ( fl[]s1 hails f ,spa94 ,x is admirably %[n 9 ,spani% portraits--^?1 = example1 by ,velasquez1 ,coello1 etc2 9 ! l>ge s]ies ( ,habsburg portraits pres]v$ 9 ! ca/le ( ,s*nbrunn1 9 ,au/ria2 & 9 portraits ( ! ,m$ici family by ! pa9t] ,su/]mans 7#aeig-afha7 9 ! ,uffizi & ,pitti gall]ies4 ,x is "h wor?y ( note t /ill 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury we f9d elaborate ornam5tation appli$ to ! back ( jewels--a notable feature 9 almo/ all jewell]y ( ! f9e/ craftsman%ip4 ,a pla9 surface on ?is "p ( ! jewel 0 g5]ally avoid$ by a *>m+ use ( ! grav]1 or by means ( small panels ( pa9t$ enamel4 ,bracelets set ) preci\s /ones are g5]ally ( op5-"w ( ! same /yle z ! necklaces4 ,( ^? execut$ 9 enamel !re is a good ,fr5* example at ,s\? ,k5s+ton 7,plate ,,xxxvii1 #b74 ,x is =m$ ( six m$allions1 ea* conta9+ a cr[n$ cyph] alt]nat+ ) true-lov]'s knots4 ,x may usefully be comp>$ ) ,gilles ,lg>'s designs = bracelets & *a9s on ,plate #h ( 8 ,livre des ,ouvrages d',orfvr]ie4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xliv ,,r+s1 ,,slides ,,& ,,p5dants ,,sev5te5? ,,& ,,e>ly ,,eighte5? ,,c5turies ,! f+] r+s ( ! e>ly sev5te5? c5tury1 z f> z "o c judge f pictures1 did n diff] ess5tially f ! late sixte5?-c5tury types2 9 fact _m ( ! ornam5tal r+s usually ascrib$ to ! sixte5? c5tury really date f ! fir/ half ( ! sev5te5?4 ,! majority ( small niello designs engrav$ at ?is p]iod 7 patt]ns = ! %\ld]s ( r+s1 int5d$ to be execut$ 9 enamel by ! *amplev process 7,pl4 ,,xli74 ,h5ri1 son ( ,jean ,t\t91 furni%es a c\ple ( engrav+s = r+s1 ( ! ye> #afbh1 ( :i* ! :ole out] surface ( ! hoop is cov]$ ) designs res]v$ 9 :ite on a black gr\nd4 ,de la ,quewell]ie ( ,am/]dam1 #afce1 has also left ! designs = a f+] r+ 9 ! same /yle4 ,! love = b\quets d'orfvr]ie--fl[] designs 9 col\r$ /ones--f9ds expression1 t[>ds ! end ( ! c5tury1 9 ! gi>d9etti r+1 ! bezel ( :i* is =m$ l a nosegay1 a basket ( fl[]s1 or a bun* ( fl[]s spr++ f a vase4 ,^! floral designs are ( *>m+ execution1 & _! col\r$ /ones produce an extremely pleas+ effect4 ,_m ( ^! r+s are ,italian1 b !re are sev]al ,engli% examples at ,s\? ,k5s+ton 7,pl4 ,,xxxvi1 #i1 #aj74 ,pa9t$ enamels 9 fl[] patt]ns are f\nd n only on ! %\ld]s ( r+s1 b cov]+ ! entire out] surface4 ,occasionally fl[]s enamell$ j\r occur1 ! hoop ( ! r+ be+ holl[4 ,"l ,falkl& possesses a good example ( "o ( ^! r+s encircl$ ) col\r$ fl[]s 7,pl4 ,,xliv1 #h74 ,! holl[ space is fill$ ) hair4 ,)9 ! hoop is ! posy ,difficulty sweet5s enjoym5t4 ,mottoes or posies ( ?is k9d 7 occasionally engrav$ on m$ival r+s & on ^? ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 b ! majority ( ! l>ge numb] ( r+s on :i* su* mottoes occur belong to ! sev5te5? & eighte5? c5turies4 ,unlike ! example j m5tion$1 ^! r+s1 ) ! motto engrav$ inside !m1 usually h pla9 hoops1 & 7 us$ z engagem5t1 & sometimes z w$d+ r+s4 ,! mottoes g5]ally rhyme1 b are n rem>kable = poetic skill1 & !y are f\nd con/antly repeat$4 ,numb]s ( ! v]ses employ$ = ! purpose are giv5 9 ,jones's ,f+]-,r+ ,lore1 & 9 an article publi%$ by ,sir ,john ,evans 9 ,longman's ,magaz9e 7#ahib74 ,a few examples w suffice3 ,z ,god decre$ s we agre$2 ,god above increase our love2 ,?is take = my sake2 ,! love is true ,i owe y2 ,9 !e my *oice ,i d rejoice4 ,posy r+s1 l m\rn+ r+s1 to be ref]r$ to lat]1 are almo/ exclusively ,engli%4 ,z reg>ds ! ord9>y ornam5tal r+ ( ! p]iod1 x is to be obs]v$ t ! diamond1 :i* came s mu* to ! front at ?is "t1 f\nd a prom95t place on x4 ,t[>ds ! close ( ! c5tury1 ?\gh enamel-"w is /ill visible1 ! purpose ( ! r+1 z at ! pres5t day1 seems to h be5 no?+ m ?an = display+ ! diamond on ! f+]1 s f> z "o may judge f "s ( ,lg>'s designs 7,pl4 ,,xl1 #b74 ,! girdle 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury 0 /ill an important ornam5t = ladies4 ,! great portrait pa9t]s ( ! ,l[ ,c\ntries pres5t ladies we>+ massive l9k$ *a9s t]m9at+ 9 elaborate pom&]s4 ,n infrequ5tly ! lady is %[n1 z 9 a picture by ,g]>d ,d\ffet at ,muni*1 hold+ ! pom&] 9 h] h&4 ,a f9e pom&] is se5 9 a portrait ( a ,flemi% lady by ,cornelis de ,vos 9 ! ,wallace ,collection1 & "o ( extraord9>y beauty is worn by a ,dut* lady 9 a spl5did picture by ,frans ,hals 9 ! ,cassel ,gall]y4 ,among/ ! v>i\s sev5te5?-c5tury girdles to be f\nd 9 public collections1 )\t d\bt ! mo/ rem>kable are two examples1 "o 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum & ! o!r 9 ! ,wallace ,collection4 ,!y repres5t ! species ( enamel-"w kn[n z mail en rsille sur v]re1 :i* 0 employ$ dur+ ! latt] "p ( ! sixte5? & ! e>ly sev5te5? c5tury = m9iature & mirror cases--( :i* specim5s 9 ! ,morgan ,collection & ! ,l\vre h already be5 notic$--& = ! dials ( wat*es4 ,! girdle at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 ( ,fr5* "w ( ! e>ly sev5te5? c5tury1 is =m$ ( tw5ty-"o oblong & slightly convex plates l9k$ toge!r by rosettes4 ,^! plates1 ( silv]1 are fill$ ) glass pa/e1 :i* is back$ ) col\r$ foils & inlaid ) m9ute designs 9 transluc5t enamel on gold1 repres5t+ hunt+ & o!r c\ntry sc5es4 ,! *a9 9 ! ,wallace ,collection1 :i* might possibly h be5 worn z a neck-*a91 is almo/ id5tical 9 subject & design1 save t ! oblong l9ks numb] eighte51 :ile ! rosettes unit+ !m are enamell$ & set ) g>nets4 ,! jewel :i* be/ repres5ts ! v>i\s k9ds ( decoration 9 ! way ( engrav+ & enamel-"w appli$ to sev5te5?-c5tury ornam5ts is ! wat*4 ,f ! e>ly "p ( ! c5tury ! r\nd =m1 m or less flat1 :i* has be5 pres]v$ f t "t to ! pres5t day1 began to be g5]ally adopt$ = wat*es4 ,all ! diff]5t species ( "w employ$ on m9iature-cases are f\nd on wat* dial-plates & cases4 ,! int]e/+ cosse de pois ornam5t is repres5t$ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum on ! dial-plate ( a wat* by ,d4 ,b\quet ( ,london1 ( ab\t #afcj-afdj4 ,x is execut$ by ! r>e process j describ$--! patt]n be+ inlaid on gold ^u a gr\nd ( gre5 glass or enamel4 ,ano!r wat*1 by ,vauti] ( ,blois1 has ! c5tre ( ! dial enri*$ ) transluc5t enamel 9 gold cloisons on opaque :ite4 ,among wat*es ) ri*ly decorat$ cases !re is 9 ! same collection ano!r by ,b\quet1 beautifully enamell$ ) fl[]s 9 relief1 ( v>i\s col\rs & k9ds1 on a black gr\nd encru/$ ) small diamonds4 ,besides ! names already m5tion$1 ! be/-kn[n enamell]s ( wat*-cases f ab\t #afhj to #agjj 7 ! bro!rs ,huault1 or ,huaud1 ( ,g5eva1 :o work$ also at ,b]l94 ,no m examples ne$ be giv5 ( ! diff]5t species ( enamel appli$ to sev5te5?-c5tury jewell]y4 ,en\gh has be5 said to demon/rate ! importance & attractiv5ess ( ! comp>atively little-kn[n enamel-"w ( ?is "t4 ,dur+ ! great] "p ( ! sev5te5? c5tury ! wat* 0 simply hung by a *a9 to ! girdle1 z we see x on ! two portraits 7ab\t #afde7 ( ! wife ( ,john ,tradescant ! y\ng] 9 ! ,a%molean ,museum1 ,ox=d4 ,! elaborate *atela9es :i* atta*$ ! wat* to wom5's girdles1 & ! *a9s :i* hung f ! fob-pocket ( m51 belong r to ! eighte5? c5tury2 b !y 7 already 9 use1 & f !m 7 susp5d$ t mo/ attractive article ( jewell]y1 ! seal1 :i* 0 !n beg9n+ to take ! place ( ! signet r+4 ,evelyn1 9 8 ,mundus ,muliebris1 or ,voyage to ,m>ryl& 7#afij71 gives a rhym+ catalogue ( a lady's toilet1 & alludes to ! *atela9e3-- ,to :i* a bun* ( onyxes1 ,& _m a gold5 seal !re dangles1 ,my/]i\s cyph]s1 & new fangles4 ,! designs ( ,lg> conta9 sev]al *>m+ p5d5t seals hav+ _! %anks or h&les f9ely work$ ) monograms & o!r patt]ns 7,pl4 ,,xl74 ,seals1 h[ev]1 toge!r ) ! *atela9e & ! re/ ( its accompanim5ts1 w be spok5 ( lat]4 ,!re rema9 v>i\s pieces ( jewell]y1 su* z buckles1 clasps1 or broo*es1 :i* 7 spr9kl$ on diff]5t p>ts ( ! dress4 ,l ! svign or brea/ ornam5t1 !y (t5 take ! =m ( a ti$ b[1 & f9d a place on ! arms & %\ld]s1 & 9 r[s d[n ! front ( ! bodice & ! skirt4 ,9 ! latt] "p ( ! c5tury jewell$ buckles replac$ ! rosette ( ribbons on ! %oe4 ,?us aga9 ,evelyn speaks (3-- ,diamond buckles too1 ,= g>t]s1 & z ri* = %oo 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 ,a manteau girdle1 ruby buckle1 ,& brilliant diamond r+s = knuckle4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 ,a saphire bodk9 = ! hair1 ,or sp>kl+ facet diamonds !re3 ,!n turquois1 ruby1 emrauld r+s ,= f+]s1 & su* petty ?+s2 ,z diamond p5dants = ! e>s1 ,mu/ ne$s be _h1 or two pe>l pe>s1 ,pe>l neck-lace1 l>ge & ori5tal1 ,& diamond1 & ( amb] pale4 ,,engl&1 ,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury ,9 ,engl& 9 ! "t ( ,james ,i1 ! love ( p]sonal ornam5t1 among m5 z well z wom51 0 ev5 m widespread ?an be=e4 ,k+ ,james1 & also 8 ,que51 :o h]self possess$ a highly extravagant ta/e = jewell]y1 set a public example by _! patronage ( ! jewell]s2 :ile ! nobility outbid "o ano!r 9 lavi% exp5diture4 ,john ,*amb]la91 an ent]ta9+ correspond5t ( ! day1 writes ?us 9 #afjh to a fri5d unable to att5d a masque3 ,:atsoev] ! devise may be1 & :at success !y may h 9 _! danc+1 yet y %\ld be sure to h se5 great ri*es 9 jewels1 :5 "o lady1 & t "u a b>oness1 is said to be furni%$ = bett] ?an a hundr$ ?\s& p\nds2 & ! lady ,arabella goes beyond h]1 & ! ,que5 mu/ n come beh9d4 ,contempor>y *ronicl]s h left no descriptions t %[ precisely h[ ! ,k+'s own p]son reflect$ ! fa%ions 9 jewell]y ( 8 day1 yet we "k t he possess$ an almo/ *ildi% admiration = brav]y1 z x !n 0 t]m$1 p>ticul>ly su* z 0 int5d$ = ! decoration ( ^? ab\t 8 p]son4 ,a v curi\s in/ance ( ! ,k+'s int]e/ 9 ^! matt]s is to be f\nd 9 ! elaborate in/ructions he issu$ conc]n+ ! despat* ( a l>ge consignm5t ( jewels = ! use ( ! ,pr9ce ( ,wales1 & 8 fav\rite1 ,buck+ham1 on _! memorable j\rney to ,spa9 9 #afbc4 ,9 ! spr+ ( t ye> ord]s 7 giv5 to sev]al (fic]s ( ,/ate1 & ) !m ! jewell] ,h]iot1 to repair to ! ,t[] & make a selection ( ! f9e/ jewels !re--"s fit = a woman1 & o!rs = ! ,pr9ce to we>4 ,among !m a jewel call$ ! ,?ree ,bro!rs1 five or six faire jewels to be worn 9 m5's hats1 same to be ( #f1jjj or #g1jjj value1 & none "u2 ! five p5d5t diamonds t 7 ! ,que5's1 :e!r !y rema9 ^u a /r+ or be made up ^u a fea!r4 ,if none ( ! ,t>gett fa%ion = hats1 ! jewels to be broke up to make !m4#agi #agi ,hi/orical ,,mss4 ,commission1 ,,iv1 p4 #bhf4 ,to 8 son & fav\rite ! ,k+ !n addresses a lett]1 9 :i* he tells !m t he _h be5 *oos+ ! jewells ,i am to s5d y1 :]e( my ,babie is to pres5t "s to 8 ,mi/resse1 & "s ( ! be/ hee is to we> himselfe1 & ! next be/ hee w l5d to my ba/>d brat ,buck+ham to we>4 ,on _! removal f ! ,t[] ! jewels are c>efully inv5tori$1 & ,h]iot is set to "w to refa%ion !m4 ,aft] a =tnight's "w he promises t !y w be f9i%$ 9 a few days4 ,s1 on ! #ah? ( ,m>*1 ! jewels1 we le>n1 h be5 deliv]$4 ,mr4 ,h]riot is gone to assi/ 9 pack+ !m1 & has sat up day & night to get !m complet$4#ahj #ahj ,cal5d> ( ,/ate ,pap]s1 ,dome/ic1 ,m>* #ah1 #afbc4 ,! ,k+ !n writes t he is s5d+ = 8 ,babie's ow9 we>+ 444 ! ,?ree ,bre?r51#aha t y kn[e full well1 b newlie sette1 & ! ,mirr\re ( ,frawnce1 ! fell[e ( ! ,portugall ,dyamont1 quhi*e ,i wolde wi%e y to we>e alone 9 y\r hatte ) a litle blakke fea!r4 ,to 8 sweete ,gosseppe he s5ds a fair table dyamonde4 ,i h hung1 he says1 a faire pe>e pe>le to x = we>+ 9 ?y hatte or quhair ?[ pleasis4#ahb #aha ,see p4 #bji4 #ahb ,ni*ols1 ,progresses ( ,james ,i1 ,,iv1 p4 #hcj4 ,a complete li/ ( ! jewels remov$ f ! ,t[] is giv5 9 ,ar*ologia1 ,,xxi1 p4 #adh4 ,z ! result ( ext5sive transactions bo? ) ! ,cr[n & ! nobility ! jewell]s ( ! day seem to h reap$ a ri* h>ve/2 & !y atta9$ to positions ( em95ce by add+ bank+ to _! m anci5t art ( work+ 9 ! preci\s metals4 ,( ! royal jewell]s1 ,george ,h]iot ( ,ed9burgh--r5d]$ immortal by ,sir ,walt] ,scott z ,j+l+ ,geordie--! f\nd] ( ,h]iot's ,hospital1 comes fir/ to m9d4 ,h]iot receiv$ 9 #aeig a life appo9tm5t z jewell] to ,que5 ,anne ( ,d5m>k1 & 9 #afja ,james made him 8 own jewell]4 ,he foll[$ ! ,k+ to ,london1 & 9 #afjc1 toge!r ) ,william ,h]rick & ,john ,spilman1 0 appo9t$ jewell] to ! ,k+1 ,que51 & ,pr9ce1 at a ye>ly sal>y ( #ej4 ,imm5se sums ( money 7 paid him bo? z int]e/ on loans & = ! jewels suppli$ to _! ,maje/ies1 ( :i* long li/s h be5 pres]v$4 ,sir ,john ,spilman1 a ,g]man by bir? & "o ( ! *ief jewell]s ( ,que5 ,elizabe?1 execut$ great quantities ( jewell]y at ! royal comm&s2 b ,sir ,william ,h]rick seems to h obta9$ an ev5 l>g] %>e ( ! royal patronage4 ,que5 ,anne ( ,d5m>k1 :o sp5t an enorm\s am\nt on p]sonal ornam5ts1 receiv$ #cf1jjj wor? f him alone4 ,que5 ,anne1 writes a contempor>y %ortly aft] h] dea?1 ha? left a _w ( brave jewels beh9d2 & al?\gh "o ,pi]s1 an outl&i% man1 ha? run away ) _m1 %e ha? left all to ! ,pr9ce ,*>les & none to ! ,que5 ( ,bohemia h] daught] ,elizabe?4 ,9 fact1 s _m ( h] jewels 7 embezzl$ t sc>cely a ve/ige rema9$1 ?\gh ,h]rick produc$ ! models ( !m & swore to _! deliv]y4#ahc ,! poet ,rob]t ,h]rick1 ,sir ,william ,h]rick's nephew1 0 a jewell]-appr5tice to 8 uncle = sev]al ye>s1 & 8 e>ly tra9+ seems to h left a /rong impression on him1 = 8 poems ?r\gh\t betray a love & appreciation = jewels4 ,among o!r jewell]s ^: names occur 9 ! ,/ate ,pap]s1 ! foll[+ may be m5tion$3 ,philip ,jacobson1 ,arnold ,lulls1 ,john ,acton1 & ,john ,williams--a mak] ( gold neck-*a9s & p5d5t m$als4 #ahc ,ni*ols1 op4 cit41 ,,iii1 p4 #edh4 ,z f> z ! actual productions ( ! ,jacobean jewell]s are conc]n$ we meet ) comp>atively few examples2 ?is want1 h[ev]1 is suppli$1 to a c]ta9 ext5t1 by means ( a beautiful set ( contempor>y draw+s = jewell]y pres]v$ 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum--! "w ( ,arnold ,lulls1 a jewell] ^: "n occurs sev]al times 9 ! royal acc\nts4 ,9 conjunction ) ,sir ,william ,h]rick1 ,lulls suppli$ ! ,k+ 9 #afje1 z ,new ,ye>'s gifts = ! ,royal ,family1 ) jewels to ! am\nt ( #c1jjj4 ,= a c]ta9 jewel ( diamonds1 ) pe>ls p5d5t1 & two doz5 buttons suppli$ by him & ,jacobson1 & be/[$ by ,8 ,maje/y on ! ,que5 at ! ,pr9cess ,m>y's *ri/5+ ! same ye>1 ,lulls 0 paid #a1eej4ahd #ahd ,devon 7,f471 ,issues ( ! ,ex*equ]1 ,james ,i 7,pell records71 p4 #di4 ,lulls' designs1 drawn 9 wat]-col\rs 9 a p>*m5t book1 numb] altoge!r =ty-"o4 ,! majority1 set ) l>ge table-cut /ones & hung ) huge pe>-%ap$ drops1 are = p5d5t ornam5ts1 = we>+ ei!r on ! neck-*a91 or z e>r+s1 or else ^u ! hat4 ,among ! draw+s are two designs = a rope ( r\nd pe>ls1 great & ori5t--=ty-sev5 9 numb]--giv5 to ! ,que51 & sev]al designs = ! above-m5tion$ diamond & pe>l ornam5t giv5 h] 9 #afje2 two draw+s = ,georges ( ! ,ord] ( ! ,g>t] giv5 to ,pr9ce ,h5ry2 & designs = a l>ge balas ruby ) pe>l p5dant m5tion$ 9 an inv5tory ( ! ,pr9ce's jewels4#ahe ,! rema9+ draw+s include f\r ( jewell$ aigrettes set ) diamonds1 rubies1 em]alds1 & sapphires 7,plate ,,xxx1 #a74 ,^! rem>kable contempor>y illu/rations ( ,engli% jewell]y reveal ! *ange !n beg9n+ to take place 9 ! "* ( p]sonal ornam5ts4 ,yet1 ?\gh preci\s /ones are mu* 9 evid5ce1 9 almo/ e case _! sett+s are col\r$1 :ile ! design ( ea* jewel is complet$ ) *>m+ scrollwork enri*$ ) poly*rome enamels4 #ahe ,ar*ologia1 ,,xv1 p4 #ai4 ,! f9e/ ,jacobean jewel 9 exi/5ce is ! fam\s m9iature-case kn[n z ! ,lyte ,jewel1 n[ 9 ! ,waddesdon ,beque/ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,m9iature-cases ( gold elaborately enamell$1 ) h+$ fronts (t5 set ) jewels1 7 z mu* 9 vogue z 9 ,elizabe?'s "t2 & records %[ t _m preci\s picture cases ( ! k9d 7 made = ,james ,i z pres5ts to p]sonal fri5ds or to ambassadors4 ,! cov] ( ! ,lyte ,jewel is ( op5-"w1 fill$ ) ! lett] ,r1 ) diamonds on ! outside & brilliant enamel )94 ,! back is a :ite enamell$ plate ) a design 9 f9e gold l9es & ruby enamel1 ! edge be+ enamell$ alt]nately ruby col\r & sapphire-blue4 ,)9 is a portrait ( ,james ,i ascrib$ to ,isaac ,oliv]4 ,! fir/ own] ( ! jewel 0 ,mr4 ,?omas ,lyte4 ,?is g5tleman drew up a long p$igree ( ,k+ ,james ,i's ance/ry & pres5t$ x to ! ,k+1 :o 0 s mu* pleas$ ) x t he rew>d$ ,mr4 ,lyte ) 8 picture 9 gold1 set ) diamonds1 ) graci\s ?anks4 ,! jewel pass$ f ! ,lyte family "s g5]ations ago into ! h&s ( ! ,duke ( ,hamilton4 ,at ! disp]sal ( ! ,hamilton ,palace collection x 0 b\ght = ! sum ( #b1hce by ,b>on ,f]d9& ,ro?s*ild1 :o bequea!d x ) 8 o!r art treasures to ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,a contempor>y portrait ( ,?omas ,lyte1 dat$ #afaa1 9 ! possession ( ,sir ,h5ry ,maxwell ,lyte %[s him we>+ x susp5d$ f a br[n ribbon r\nd 8 neck4 ,! jewel is ! same1 save t ! drop at ! bottom1 n[ a s+le pe>l1 0 orig9ally trilob$4 ,?is exquisite jewel 0 probably ! "w ( "o ( ! c\rt jewell]s m5tion$ above4 ,! design on ! back1 :i* corresponds 9 /yle ) engrav+s ( ,daniel ,mignot & ! o!r e>li] design]s 9 ! silh\ette mann]1 exemplifies ! influ5ce ex]cis$ by ! ornam5ti/s on all ! jewell]y ( ! p]iod 7,pl4 ,,xli74 ,?r\gh\t ! reign ( ,*>les ,i ornam5ts 9 ! same /yle z ^? portray$ 9 ,lulls' draw+s appe> to h rema9$ 9 use4 ,all jewell]y 0 l>gely influ5c$ by ! patt]n-books issu$ f ! goldsmi?-engrav]s' %ops ( ,g]many1 ,france & ,fl&]s4 ,sev]al jewell]s !mselves came ov]1 z did ! well-kn[n ,mi*el ,le ,blon1 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! reign4 ,9 #afce ! fam\s goldsmi?-enamell]s ,petitot & ,bordi] likewise visit$ ,engl&1 & d\btless made _! influ5ce felt on ! enamell$ jewell]y ( ! "t4 ,! p]iod1 on ! :ole1 ?\gh x t]m9at$ disa/r\sly = all ! sumptu>y arts1 seems to h be5 a prolific "o 9 ! production ( jewell]y4 ,! *ief bus9ess 0 %>$ by ! c\rt jewell]s--,james ,h]iot 7half-bro!r ( ,george ,h]iot71 ,philip ,jacobson1 ,?omas ,simpson1 ,john ,acton1 & ,william ,t]rey4 ,?\gh he %[]$ commissions on ^! jewell]s1 ! ,k+ _h comm5c$ e>ly 9 8 reign ! disp]sal ( ! imm5se ho>ds ( jewell]y br\ght toge!r by 8 pr$ecessors2 & by sell+ & pawn+ rais$ l>ge sums ( money1 to make good ! defici5cies caus$ by ! rupture ) ,p>liam5t4 ,subsequ5tly1 dur+ ! ,civil ,w>1 to relieve 8 p]sonal necessities1 numb]s ( jewels 7 sold at home1 & _m m pawn$ & s5t ov] to ! deal]s at ,am/]dam1 :o broke !m up = ! intr9sic value ( _! gold & preci\s /ones2 :ile ! rema9d] 7 put "u ! hamm] by a commission appo9t$ aft] ! ,k+'s dea? to dispose ( ! works ( art 9 ! royal collection4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xlv ,,page ,,f ,,! ,,l$g] ,,( ,,sir ,,francis ,,*ild1 ,,jewell] ,,to ,,william ,,iii ,! fact t all classes dur+ ! /ruggle p>t$ ) _! valuables to assi/ _! respective *ampions has r5d]$ jewell]y extremely r>e4 ,wom51 & ev5 little *ildr51 volunt>ily s5t _! necklaces & broo*es = ! ,k+2 :ile ,cromwell 0 assi/$ 9 ! same mann]4 ,great luxury 9 jewell]y appe>s to h be5 associat$ ) ! ,c\rt ( ,*>les ,,ii4 ,! ,k+ himself be/[$ magnific5t pres5ts on 8 mi/resses4 ,among/ 8 jewell]s 0 t pr9ce ( goldsmi?s1 ,sir ,rob]t ,vyn]1 :o made ! cr[n jewels4 ,lat] on ,k+ ,*>les _h z c\rt jewell] ! celebrat$ ,fr5* travell] & gem m]*ant ,sir ,john ,*>d91 :o settl$ 9 ,london ) an imm5se collection ( preci\s /ones acquir$ 9 ! ,ea/4 ,ano!r em95t jewell] ( ! "t 0 ! bank] ,ald]man ,edw>d ,backwell1 ^: old books1 /ill pres]v$1 are full ( int]e/+ acc\nts = jewels suppli$ dur+ ! ,commonweal? & ! reign ( ,*>les ,,ii4 ,! religi\s tr\bles :i* _h l$ ,*>d9 to quit ,france induc$ a numb] ( o!r ,fr5* jewell]s1 aft] ! revocation ( ! ,edict ( ,nantes 9 #afhe1 to e/abli% !mselves 9 ,engl&4 ,^! =eign jewell]s1 l ! army ( craftsm5 9 e field t at all times sw>m$ into ,engl&1 soon accu/om$ !mselves to _! environm5t & became z ,engli% z ! ,engli% !mselves4 ,engli% "w has ev] _h its own di/9ctive m>k1 = :atev] ! native craftsm5 !mselves borr[$ !y spe$ily made _! own4 ,! *ief jewell] ( ! latt] "p ( ! c5tury 0 ,sir ,francis ,*ild--"o ( ! f\nd]s ( ! great bank+ h\se t /ill be>s 8 "n4 ,he 0 appo9t$ c\rt jewell] to ,william ,,iii 9 #afhi1 & suppli$ ! ,k+ ) a great quantity ( jewell]y4 ,mu* ( ?is 0 int5d$ z pres5ts to ambassadors2 = jewell]y1 x appe>s1 play$ a v prom95t "p 9 ! diplomatic affairs ( ! day4 ,ev5 ! mo/ trifl+ negotiation co/ ! ,ex*equ] an enorm\s am\nt 9 pres5ts ( ?is k9d1 :ile =eign envoys 7 likewise oblig$ to disburse l>ge sums = ! same purpose4 ,li/s ( ^! gifts & ( o!r jewels are pres]v$ 9 ! l$g]s ( ?is anci5t firm ( goldsmi?-bank]s1 & h be5 publi%$ by ,mr4 ,f4 ,g4 ,hilton ,price 9 ,! ,m>ygold by ,temple ,b>4 ,a set ( draw+s = jewels ( ab\t ! ye> #afgd f ,sir ,francis ,*ild's l$g]1 ) p>ticul>s conc]n+ !m 9 ! great goldsmi?'s own h&writ+1 is "h reproduc$ 7,pl4 ,,xlv74 ,illu/ration3 ,design = a p5d5t m9iature-frame by ,pi]re ,m>*ant4 ,,*apt] ,,xxxii ,,eighte5?-,,c5tury ,,jewell]y ,! jewell]y t came into fa%ion t[>ds ! close ( ! sev5te5? c5tury & fl\ri%$ dur+ ! great] "p ( ! eighte5? foll[s ! /yle kn[n z rococo4 ,rococo ornam5t ) its assemblage ( ri* fanta/ic scrolls & crimp$ conv5tional %ellwork wr\ght into irregul> & indescribable =ms1 ?\gh ov]*>g$ & inorganic1 yet possesses c]ta9 beauty & arti/ic quality4 ,l mo/ objects 9 ?is /yle1 rococo jewell]y has a real decorative *>m4 ,b ! title ( b>oque or rococo is really less adapt$ to jewell]y ?an to o!r art productions ( ! "t1 = jewell]y itself nev] indulg$ 9 ! same extravagant use ( ?is =m ( ornam5t4 ,except = slight *anges 9 design1 eighte5?-c5tury jewell]y1 z f> z its g5]al =m is conc]n$1 does n at fir/ display any m>k$ v>iation f t ( ! previ\s c5tury4 ,a *>m+ b some:at sup]ficial s5tim5tality express$ by means ( pa/oral subjects results 9 ornam5ts on :i* tok5s ( fri5d%ip are repres5t$ 9 all mann] ( =ms4 ,! naturali/ic t5d5cy 9 ornam5t is /ill /rong1 b is less /rik+ ?an x 0 be=e1 s9ce fea!r1 ribbon1 & o!r conv5tional designs make _! appe>ance1 m+l$ ) fl[]s & leaves4 ,^! rococo jewels1 on acc\nt ( ! sett+ & arrangem5t ( ! preci\s /ones :i* entirely gov]n _! composition1 are 9 _! way ma/]pieces bo? te*nically & arti/ically4 ,unlike ! e>li] jewels1 "o _c help reg>d+ !m r m z accessories to co/ume ?an z indep5d5t works ( art4 ,! g5]al "* ( ! jewell]y ( ! p]iod ) :i* we are n[ deal+ may be/ be judg$ by a notable s]ies ( orig9al designs 9 col\r = su* objects execut$ by ! ,sant9i family ( ,flor5ce1 & n[ pres]v$ 9 ! ,libr>y ( ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4 ,?is rem>kable collection comprises upw>ds ( #chb sep>ate designs1 :i* are mo/ly con/ruct$ 9 a mann] be/ calculat$ to %[ (f ! brilliant "* & size ( ! /ones & pe>ls1 on :i* _! effect ma9ly dep5ds4 ,a l>ge proportion ( ! draw+s take ! =m ( :at at ?is p]iod con/itut$ a p>ure1 or set ( jewels1 compos$ ( ?ree items ( simil> design--a b[-%ap$ brea/ ornam5t hung ) a cross1 & a pair ( e>r+s en suite4 ,9 place ( ! brea/ ornam5t is sometimes a ,v-%ap$ corsage 9 imitation ( hooks & eyes or braidwork1 set ) v>i\s preci\s /ones4 ,! :ole "w %[s t 9 ! eighte5? c5tury ! /one cutt] & /one sett] _h practically supplant$ ! arti/ 9 preci\s metals4 ,9 ! metal-"w ( ! sett+s--9 mo/ cases a matt] ( m9or consid]ation--gold is employ$ = col\r$ /ones & silv] = diamonds4 ,! g5]al t5d5cy is t[>ds ! rococo1 b ?is type ( ornam5t is "h by no means /rongly m>k$4 ,9 o!r directions1 h[ev]1 x is m app>5t1 & already 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury we meet ) traces ( x 9 engrav$ designs = jewell]y4 ,! be/ "w ( ?is k9d is t ( ,fri$ri* ,jacob ,morisson1 a draughtsman & jewell] :o work$ at ,vi5na f ab\t #afic to #afig4 ,he 0 "o ( ! mo/ popul> jewell]s ( ! day1 & 8 plates1 :i* are ri* 9 motives = ornam5ts 9 preci\s /ones & f9e metal-"w1 f\nd a wide circulation4 ,!y comprise aigrettes1 e>r+s1 broo*es1 p5dants1 bracelets1 r+s1 tuis1 & seals4 ,o!r ,g]mans :o h left designs 9 ! same /yle are ,f4 ,h4 ,bemmel 7#agjj7 ( ,nuremb]g1 ,d4 ,baumann 7#afie71 ,johann ,heel 7#afcg-agji71 & ,j4 ,f4 ,leopold 7#agjj7--;all ( ,augsburg4 ,fr5* design]s l$ ,european ta/e 9 jewell]y z 9 furniture1 & publi%$ a numb] ( important designs4 ,! mo/ rem>kable are ^? ( ! ma/]-goldsmi? ,jean ,b\rguet ( ,p>is1 ^: models = e>r+s1 p5dants1 & clasps1 dat$ #agab & #agbc1 are set ) l>ge facet$ /ones1 & h _! backs *as$ or enamell$ ) fl[] designs4 ,8 ,livre de ,taille d'p>gne ) designs = enamel-"w publi%$ z models = jewell]s' appr5tices1 conta9s among/ o!r patt]ns a s]ies ( twelve r+s set ) l>ge facet$ /ones2 beside ea* r+ is a design = ! enamel decoration ( its %\ld]3 ,petits morceaux he calls !m1 de taille d'p>gne facile coppi]4 ,contempor>y ) ,b\rguet 0 ,pi]re ,b\rdon1 ( ,c\lommi]s en ,brie1 :o work$ at ,p>is4 ,8 designs1 dat$ #agjc1 are = seals1 sc5t cases1 & wat* cov]s ( rococo "w1 & p5d5t m$allions & m9iature frames set ) preci\s /ones4 ,among o!r ,p>isian design]s are ! ma/]-goldsmi?s ,briceau 7#agji71 & ,mondon 7c4 #agcj-agfj7 ^: ,livre de ,pi]r]ies1 ,p\r la ,p>ure des ,dames conta9s patt]ns = e>r+s1 broo*es1 & aigrettes set ) brilliants1 & = enamell$ & jewell$ wat*es4 ,( ,italian designs = jewell]y set ) preci\s /ones 9 ! rococo /yle we may note ^? ( ,g4 ,b4 ,grondoni ( ,g5oa1 :o work$ at ,brussels ab\t #agae1 ,c>lo ,ciampoli 7#agaj71 & ,d4 ,m4 ,alb9i1 ^: ,disegni mod]ni di gioigli]i 7 publi%$ 9 #agdd4 ,! publication 9 ,london ( sev]al s]ies ( designs proves t ,engl& 0 n f> beh9d ! ,cont95t 9 ! production ( high-class p]sonal ornam5ts4 ,among ! mo/ important patt]n-books = jewell]y1 are ^? ( ,simon ,gribel91 :o 0 born 9 ,p>is 9 #affb1 & work$ *iefly 9 ,london1 :]e he di$ 9 #agcc4 ,8 "w includes ,a book ( seu]all ,ornam5ts inu5t$ & +rau$ by ,s4 ,gribel91 #afhb1 & ,a ,book ( ,ornam5ts usefull to ,jewell]s1 etc41 #afig4 ,^! 7 republi%$ 9 #agjd4 ,gribel9's productions 7 foll[$ by ^? ( ,j4 ,b4 ,h]b/1 :o issu$ 9 #agjh ,a book ( sev]all ornam5ts fit = ,juwel]1 made by ,j4 ,b4 ,h]b/1 & 9 #agaj ,a ,book ( ,sev]all ,juwel]s "w1 444 ,sold by ,mr4 ,eymak]1 ,juwel] 9 ,e>ls ,c\rt drury lane ,london4 ,! patt]ns are *iefly = seals1 & = brea/ ornam5ts & clasps set ) rose-cut /ones 9 rococo sett+s4 ,ab\t ! same "t simil> patt]n-books 7 publi%$ by ,j4 ,smi? & ,?omas ,b[les4 ,9 #agcf appe>$ ,a book ( jewell]'s "w design'd by ,?omas ,fla* 9 ,london1 engrav$ by ,j4 ,fessey4 ,x conta9s designs = buckles1 seals1 wat*-keys1 a *atela9e ) a wat* & ano!r ) an tui1 p5dants & b[-%ap$ brea/ ornam5ts hung ) drop pe>ls4 ,9 #agfb ,j4 ,gui5 publi%$ 9 ,london a ,livre de j\aill]ies--,a book ( ,ornam5ts = ,jewell]s1 conta9+ v>i\s designs 9 preci\s /ones 9 ! mann] ( ,morisson & ,grondoni4 ,an isolat$ ph5om5on 9 ! mid/ ( ! univ]sal love = preci\s /ones t !n dom9at$ ! productions ( ! jewell]s1 !re /&s out ,johann ,mel*ior ,d+l+]1 :o c>ri$ ! traditions ( ! sixte5? c5tury f> into ! eighte5?4 ,born at ,bib]a*1 ne> ,ulm1 9 #affe1 ,d+l+] work$ fir/ at ,augsburg1 &1 hav+ visit$ ,italy1 0 summon$ to ,dresd5 9 #agjb by ,augu/us ,,ii1 ,elector ( ,saxony1 :]e he liv$ until 8 dea? 9 #agca4 ,dur+ ^! ?irty ye>s1 aid$ by 8 bro!r ,georg ,fri$ri* 7d4 #agbj7 & 8 son ,johann ,mel*ior 7#agjb-agfb71 he 0 employ$ z c\rt jewell] to ! ,elector1 :om he assi/$ 9 plann+ & arrang+ ! ,grne ,gewlbe at ,dresd51 :i* m>vell\s assemblage ( preci\s objects conta9s ! be/ examples ( 8 "w4 ,all ! processes ( ! ,c9quec5to craftsm51 ( ^: te*nique he possess$ a f9e k1 7 employ$ by ,d+l+] ) wond]ful c>e & exactitude--?\gh 8 productions naturally betray 9 design ! p]iod ( _! execution4 ,he ex]cis$ consid]able influ5ce on 8 contempor>ies1 m especially ) reg>d to ! revival ( ! art ( enamell+ 9 ! second half ( ! c5tury1 :5 jewell]y made a notable advance 9 ! "t ( ,l\is ,,xvi4 ,a *ange 9 /yle 0 fir/ exp]i5c$ on ! arrival 9 p[] ( ,madame de ,pompad\r1 :o l$ ! way 9 t coquetti% return to simple conditions ( life :i* %[$ itself 9 ! pa/orals ( ! ,l\is ,qu9ze epo*4 ,x result$ 9 a pref]5ce = simple gold2 ?is metal1 col\r$ by alloys su* z plat9um & silv]1 & popul> "u ! "n ( quatre c\leurs1 be+ at mo/ only set (f by enamel pa9t+4 ,?is lat] rococo p]iod1 z f> z its te*nique is conc]n$1 is "o :i* has nev] be5 equall$ ei!r be=e or s9ce4 ,an ev5t ( importance 9 ! hi/ory ( jewell]y1 z ( art g5]ally1 0 ! discov]y 9 #agee ( ! city ( ,pompeii1 succe$+ t 9 #agac ( ,h]culaneum1 buri$ = c5turies b5ea? ! a%es ( ,vesuvius4 ,! j\rneys ( arti/s to ,italy & to ,naples1 & ! int]e/ ar\s$ !reby 9 anci5t art1 a we>9ess ) ! mann]ism ( rococo ornam5t1 & ! :im ( fa%ion1 gradually trans=m$ jewell]y l o!r decorative arts1 & result$ 9 ! classicism ( ! /yle ( ,l\is ,,xvi4 ,antique =ms z !y !n 7 kn[n %[$ !mselves 9 a v *>m+ mann] 9 well-balanc$ jewels1 :]e diff]5t col\r$ gold took ! =m ( classical motives 9 ! mid/ ( ribbons1 g>l&s1 & ! pa/oral subjects de> to ! previ\s epo*4 ,enamel return$ into fa%ion1 & accompli%$ its *ief triumph ) pa9t+ en ple9 9 f9e transp>5t tones ov] guillo* gold4 ,9 conjunction ) ! art ( gem sett+ & cutt+1 & metal *as+1 ?is species ( enamel produc$ effects :i* 7 all ! m surpris+1 see+ t x 0 (t5 conf9$ to ! smalle/ ( spaces4 ,among ! fir/ craftsm5 :o creat$1 or foll[$ ! fa%ion1 0 ! jewell] ,lemp]eur4 ,"s ( 8 designs 7 publi%$ by 8 pupil ,p\get ! y\ng] 9 #agfb & #agfd1 9 a treatise entitl$ ,trait des pi]res prcieuses et de la manire de les employ] en ,p>ure1 ! plates ( :i*1 mo/ly col\r$1 & repres5t+ models ( jewell]y ( all k9ds set ) preci\s /ones1 7 engrav$ by ,mlle4 ,raimbau4 ,ano!r pupil ( ,lemp]eur1 ,augu/ ,duflos1 publi%$ 9 #agfj a simil> "w entitl$ ,recueil de ,dess9s de ,joaill]ie4 ,o!r ,fr5* design]s ( jewell]y at ?is "t 73 ,m>ia1 a jewell] ( ,p>is1 :o issu$ ab\t #agfe an important s]ies ( plates1 ?irty-five 9 numb]1 ( p5dants1 broo*es1 clasps1 *atela9es1 aigrettes1 seals1 r+s1 & buckles2 ,p4 ,moreau 7#agdj-aghj7 & ,j4 ,b4 ,fay 7#aghj-agij71 bo? ( ,p>is2 & ,l4 ,van d5 ,cruyc5 7#aggj7 ( ,brussels4 ,9 #aggj 0 publi%$ 9 ,london by ,t4 ,d4 ,sa9t ,a new book ( designs = jewell]s' "w conta9+ elev5 plates ( ornam5ts ( v>i\s k9ds 9 ! /yle ( ,p\get & ,duflos4 ,"o ( ! la/ ,engli% jewell]s ( ! old s*ool 0 ,george ,mi*ael ,mos] 7#agjg-aghc71 "o ( ! f\nd]s ( ! ,academy--l ,fuseli1 a ,swiss by bir?1 & a native ( ,s*affhaus54 ,he 0 orig9ally a gold *as]--! fir/ 9 ! k+dom1 s ,sir ,jo%ua ,reynolds describ$ him2 b :5 t mode ( decorat+ jewell]y 0 put aside 9 fav\r ( enamels1 he turn$ 8 att5tion to enamel compositions ( emblematical figures1 mu* 9 vogue = ! co/ly wat*-cases ( ! day1 = *atela9es1 necklaces1 bracelets1 & o!r p]sonal ornam5ts4 ,he succe$$ s well 9 ?is class ( "w t ! ,que5 patronis$ him1 & he execut$ a consid]able numb] ( commissions = ! ,k+4 ,ano!r em95t jewell]1 :o 0 likewise a pa9t] & enamell]1 0 ,augu/us ,t\ssa9t4 ,he work$ pr9cipally ) 8 fa!r1 a not$ jewell] ( ,d5m>k ,/reet1 ,soho1 & exhibit$ at ! ,royal ,academy f #agge to #aggh1 s5d+ 9 bo? m9iatures & enamels4 ,he di$ betwe5 #agij & #ahjj4 ,sev]al ( ! f9e op5-"w jewell$ frames :i* held ! *oice m9iatures ( ! day1 7 made 9 ! work%op ( ,t\ssa9t ! eld]1 & on 8 dea? 8 son ,augu/us is said n only to h reta9$ = 8 own use all ! examples ( ^! frames :i* 7 9 /ock1 b to h cont9u$ to supply a few fell[-arti/s1 ) :om he 0 on t]ms ( intimacy1 ) ! celebrat$ ,t\ssa9t frames4#ahf #ahf ,examples ( ^! jewell$ frames are pres]v$ 9 ,mr4 ,pi]pont ,morgan's collection ( m9iatures4 ,= ! in=mation respect+ !m ,i am indebt$ to ! k9dness ( ,dr4 ,williamson1 au?or ( ! catalogue ( t collection4 ,! excess ( ornam5tation & ! desire = jewell]y =m$ ( preci\s /ones _h1 s9ce ! sev5te5? c5tury1 fav\r$ ! use ( imitations4 ,rock cry/al or qu>tz _h long be5 employ$ to imitate diamonds4 ,=g]ies & imitations :i* 7 int5d$ to pass z preci\s /ones w be spok5 ( 9 ano!r place4 ,b at ?is "t ev5 p ( great weal? wore imitation jewels1 su* z c]ta9ly w\ld n be worn by p]sons 9 a correspond+ position n[adays4 ,^! made no pr(ession ( be+ real /ones4 ,!y 7 recognis$ z imitations4 ,! cr$it ( ! production ( ! fir/ satisfactory sub/itute = ! diamond is due to a ,g]man--,/ras or ,/rass by "n--:o ab\t #ageh e/abli%$ himself at ,p>is on ! ,quai des ,orfvres1 :]e he met ) great success z a v5dor ( pa/e imitations ( diamonds1 :i* /ill be> 8 "n4 ,competitors 7 n sl[ 9 mak+ _! appe>ance1 & "o ,*ron also gave 8 "n = a consid]able "t to ! false diamonds t issu$ f 8 work%op4 ,s l>ge & fl\ri%+ did ! indu/ry 9 imitations become t 9 #agfg a corporation ( joailli]s-fausseti]s 0 e/abli%$ 9 ,p>is4 ,imitation pe>ls 7 likewise v l>gely worn2 ev5 ladies ( high position did n disda9 to we> !m--,un colli] de p]les fausses occurs 9 ! inv5tory ( ! jewels ( ,madame de ,*amill>t made on h] dea? 9 #agca4 ,false pe>ls fir/ appe>$ 9 ,p>is ab\t ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,iv1 ! production ( "o nam$ ,jaqu91 ^: desc5dants c>ri$ on a l>ge bus9ess 9 !m 9 ,p>is till ! middle ( ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,s well h pe>ls be5 imitat$1 writes ,p\get ! y\ng]1 9 #agfb1 t mo/ ( ^? ( f9e ,ori5t h f\nd _! way back f ,europe to ,asia1 & are s r>e 9 ,france t n[adays "o sc>cely sees any good specim5s4 ,productions su* z ^! 7 r5d]$ necess>y to satisfy ! luxury :i* f ! nobility _h ext5d$ ov] ! :ole middle classes1 & also on acc\nt ( ! /ra9$ condition ( ,fr5* f9ance4 ti5ne de ,silh\ette1 ,controll] ( ,f9ance1 endeav\r$ to cut d[n exp5ses1 & issu$ 9 #agei an invitation to ! weal?y to br+ 9 _! jewels to be conv]t$ into ca% = ! b5efit ( ! ,treasury4 ,su* attempts at economy1 ?\gh rew>d$ only by ridicule1 s t portraits h5ce=? execut$ 9 ! commone/ mann] 7 la ,silh\ette1 yet met ) ?is result1 z ,p\get obs]ves1 t s9ce ! "t ( ,m4 de ,silh\ette m>casite _h become v mu* ! fa%ion 9 ,france4 ,9 ,switz]l&1 too1 s9ce x 0 =bidd5 to we> diamonds1 ladies1 he tells u1 wore no o!r ornam5ts ?an m>casite1 & sp5t a good deal ( c>e & money 9 ! sett+ ( x4 ,! m9]al kn[n z m>casite1 a ^w :i* 0 spell$ 9 _m ways1 is a cry/allis$ =m ( iron pyrites cut 9 facets l rose diamonds1 & highly poli%$4 ,x 0 us$ = a numb] ( ornam5ts4 ,/eel1 likewise cut 9 facets1 0 simil>ly employ$4 ,/eel jewell]y appe>s to h be5 inv5t$ 9 ,engl&1 & f ,birm+ham1 ! c5tre ( its manufacture1 f\nd its way all ov] ,europe1 rea*+ ,france by way ( ,holl&4 ,x 0 c>ri$ out l>gely by ,b\lton & ,watt & o!r firms ( ,birm+ham1 ,%effield1 & ,wolv]hampton4 ,?is /eel jewell]y1 :i* 0 9 high fav\r 9 ! latt] half ( ! eighte5?1 cont9u$ to be worn until ! second qu>t] ( ! n9ete5? c5tury1 :5 x f9ally w5t out ( fa%ion4 ,ev5 aft] t1 cut /eel 0 /ill made at ,birm+ham1 & ! firm ( ,hipk9s1 "o ( ! mo/ prom95t1 cont9u$ = _m ye>s to supply ! ,c\rt ( ,spa9 ) buttons & buckles ornam5t$ ) x 7,pl4 ,,li1 #a1 #b74 ,/eel 0 l>gely employ$ z m\nts = ! fictile cameos ( ,w$gwood1 ,tassie1 ,adams1 & ,turn]1 :i* 7 9 consid]able dem& = r+s1 broo*es & buttons4 ,m\nt+s = ^! 7 also made 9 silv] or ,%effield plate1 pr9cipally ! "w ( ,?omas ,law ,co41 ( ,%effield4 ,9 ! latt] "p ( ! c5tury ,engl& occupi$ a unique position ) reg>d to ! production ( objects ( ?is k9d1 :i* 7 eag]ly s\ght = ?r\gh\t ! :ole ( ! ,cont95t4 ,ano!r *>act]i/ic ( ! *ang$ condition ( ! times 0 ! use 9 jewell]y1 toge!r ) /rass1 false pe>ls1 & m>casite1 ( v>i\s sub/itutes = gold4 ,! be/-kn[n ( ^! sub/itutes 0 p9*beck1 s call$ aft] its inv5tor1 ,*ri/oph] ,p9*beck 7d4 #agcb71 a clock & wat* mak]1 ( ,fleet ,/reet4 ,?is p9*beck gold 0 an alloy ( copp] & z9c4 ,:5 fus$ toge!r ! metals assum$ ! col\r ( f9e gold1 & pres]v$ = a "t a bright & unoxidis$ surface1 ?\gh 9 "s cases objects ?us fa%ion$ receiv$ a wa%+ ( gold4 ,p9*beck 0 mu* us$ = *eap] jewell]y ( all k9ds4 ,! l>g] articles made ( ?is metal 7 *atela9es1 snuff-boxes1 & tuis1 :ile wat*-cases1 m9iature-frames1 buckles1 clasps1 & s =?1 are to be f\nd = ! mo/ "p ornam5t$ 9 relief & c>efully *as$4 ,^! sev]al articles to :i* p9*beck 0 suit$1 w5t 9 ^? days by ! "n ( toys4 ,! t]m ,toyman 0 employ$ by ,p9*beck himself1 b ! title _h1 ( c\rse1 no ref]5ce to :at are n[ kn[n z toys4 ,9 ,france & ,g]many a metal composition l gold1 9 imitation ( p9*beck1 call$ ,similor or gold%9e1 0 produc$1 fir/ by ,r5ty1 ( ,lille1 ab\t #agbi1 & subsequ5tly improv$ by ,leblanc1 ( ,p>is4 ,b ! "n ( ! ,engli% inv5tor ( ! metal 0 well kn[n 9 ,france1 :]e x 0 reta9$ 9 su* =ms z p9sebeck or p9sbeck4 99 99 99 ,! head-ornam5t--! aigrette--0 /ill an important jewel 9 ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,g5]ally a k9d ( delicately =m$ b\quet ( preci\s /one 9 v light sett+1 x cont9u$ long 9 fa%ion1 toge!r ) /r+s ( pe>ls among ! hair4 ,= a :ile ! aigrette 0 set aside = b[s1 small birds1 etc41 made ( preci\s /ones m\nt$ ^u vibrat+ spiral wires :i* 7 !n atta*$ to ! hair-p94 ,^! w5t "u ! "n ( wasps or butt]flies4 ,9 ! days ( ,m>ie ,anto9ette !y 7 supplem5t$ by hair-p9s & aigrettes set entirely ) diamonds1 :i* ab\t #aggj _h almo/ entirely sup]s$$ col\r$ /ones4 ,_m designs = ^! head-ornam5ts 7 publi%$ by ,p\get ! y\ng] & ,duflos1 ! latt] ( :om compla9s 9 ! preface to 8 "w ( ! t5d5cy %[n 9 8 day to d away ) ! admixture ( col\r$ /ones ) diamonds2 a pro( t up to ?is date1 9 spite ( ! g5]al pref]5ce = ! diamond1 ta/e _h n yet le>n$ to d )\t col\r effect 9 jewell]y4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xlvi ,,eighte5? ,,c5tury ,,jewell]y1 ,,fr5* ,,& ,,engli% ,e>r+s1 z has be5 notic$ 9 ref]5ce to ! ,sant9i designs1 7 9 p>ticul> fav\r at ?is p]iod4 ,! majority 7 compos$ ( l>ge facet$ /ones or ( pe>ls1 =m$ gir&ole fa%ion--t is to say1 ( a l>ge circul> /one above1 ) ?ree briolettes or pe>-%ap$ p5dants bel[4 ,a pair ( e>r+s ( ?is =m1 said to h belong$ to ,madame du ,b>ry1 are 9 possession ( ,lady ,monckton4 ,!y are set ea* ) f\r sapphire pa/es ( v f9e quality2 ! ?ree drop-p5dants be+ sep>at$ f ! upp] /one by op5 spray-"w ( silv] set ) :ite pa/es 7,pl4 ,,xlvi1 #e1 #f74 ,simil>ly elaborate p5d5t e>r+s 9 sev5 sections compos$ ( brilliants are se5 9 an orig9al mezzot9t portrait ( ,que5 ,*>lotte by ,?omas ,frye 7c4 #agfj74 ,drop-%ap$ p5dants1 mo/ly diamonds1 7 !n v highly e/eem$4 ,m>ie ,anto9ette _h a pair ( diamond e>r+s ) /ones ( ?is =m hang+ f a p]p5dicul> l9e ( l>ge brilliants4 ,! designs ( ,ciampoli1 ,mondon1 ,gui51 ,p\get1 ,van d5 ,cruyc51 & ,fay1 all conta9 v>ieties ( e>r+s1 mo/ly gir&ole fa%ion4 ,= necklaces ! engrav+s ( ^! same design]s supply _m patt]ns4 ,l ! c>can ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 !y are (t5 9 ! =m ( a b& ab\t an in* 9 wid?1 compos$ ( preci\s /ones--rubies1 em]alds1 pe>ls1 & diamonds--9 op5-"w1 or atta*$ to velvet4 ,!y are g5]ally con/ruct$ s z to rea* only half-way r\nd ! neck1 ! back "p be+ a b& ( black velvet4 ,portraits ( ! "t frequ5tly exhibit ropes ( pe>ls1 & f9ally r[s ( l>ge diamonds1 l ! r5[n$ colli] ( ,m>ie ,anto9ette compos$ by ! ,c\rt jewell]s ,boehm] & ,bossange4 ,num]\s circum/ances connect$ ) x1 too l5g?y to relate "h1 gave to ! affaire ( ! diamond necklace a _w-wide celebrity1 mak+ x "o ( ! *ief ev5ts ( ! c5tury4 ,?\gh hi/orically "o ( ! _w's mo/ fam\s pieces ( jewell]y1 ! necklace itself1 describ$ 9 qua9t b vivid language by ,c>lyle 9 8 ,miscellanies1 calls = no special comm5t1 be+ on ! :ole ( comp>atively small arti/ic importance4 ,its value--#ij1jjj1 a great sum = ^? days--lay 9 ! size & quality ( ! brilliants & p5deloques ( :i* x 0 compos$4 ,a fav\rite po9t ( adornm5t 9 female attire 0 /ill ! brea/1 :]e1 9 ! fir/ "p ( ! c5tury1 jewell$ ornam5ts1 or svigns1 9 ! =m ( b[s & rosettes1 hung ) p5dants & set ) table-cut /ones or rose diamonds1 cont9u$ to be worn4 ,g5]ally !y assum$ ! gir&ole %ape hung ) pe>-%ap$ p5dants4 ,ab\t #aggj a l>ge bun* ( fl[]s1 or a b\quet-%ap$ ornam5t =m$ ( preci\s /ones1 0 worn 9 ! brea/4 ,= ! latt] ! jewell] ,lemp]eur enjoy$ a great reputation4 ,^u ! /iff bodice1 :i* came into fa%ion at ! end ( ! sev5te5? c5tury1 scope 0 af=d$ = a goodly use ( ornam5t1 & soon we f9d ! corsage lit]ally cov]$ ) jewels1 9 a mann] simil> to t 9 :i* ! ladies ( ! ,r5aissance almo/ completely cov]$ ! upp] "p ( _! dresses ) p5d5t *a9-ornam5ts4 ,at ! "t1 h[ev]1 ( :i* we n[ speak ! ornam5ts are s+le pieces m\nt$ ^u ! dress & arrang$ symmetrically 9 ! =m ( a jewell$ /oma*] or devant de corsage4 ,! ,sant9i draw+s conta9 _m examples ( ?is k9d ( op5 framework compos$ ( preci\s /ones2 & sev]al int]e/+ designs = ! same are figur$ on ,plates #af1 #ag1 & #ah ( ,m>ia's ,livre de ,dess9s de ,j\aill]ie et de ,bij\t]ie4 ,at ?is p]iod also1 :5 luxury rea*$ its climax1 ev5 ! pani] or tuck$-up upp] skirt _h ! :ole ( its exagg]at$ dim5sions spr9kl$ ) pieces ( jewell]y1 s t ( ?is "t aga9 x may be said t ! ladies ( ! ,c\rt display$ ! :ole ( _! weal?1 & (t5 en\gh ( _! cr$it too1 ^u a s+le dress4 ,fa%ion endeav\r$ to fill a correspond+ "p 9 g5tlem5's attire by adorn+ coat & wai/coat ) buttons ( arti/ic workman%ip4 ,to mat* ! beautiful embroid]$ g>m5ts ( ! "t1 buttons 7 sewn ) bugles1 /eel beads1 or spangles2 & _m h surviv$ :i* may be reckon$ z real articles ( jewell]y4 ,e mat]ial & mode ( decoration 0 appli$ to !m4 ,occasionally we f9d buttons set ) diamonds & o!r preci\s /ones1 b m (t5 pa/e1 or ) odd natural /ones su* z agates1 c>nelians1 m>casite1 blood-/ones1 lapis-lazuli1 or buttons ( tortoise-%ell1 or ( compositions su* z ,w$gwood w>e1 9 frames ( cut /eel4 ,transluc5t blue glass or enamel1 m\nt$ or set ) pe>ls1 diamonds or pa/es1 & *as$ & col\r$ gold1 7 all fa%ionable4 ,on ! :ole1 cut /eel 0 ! mo/ popul>4 ,a ,birm+ham craftsman by "n ( ,heeley1 :o work$ = ,w$gwood ab\t #aghj1 is record$ is be+ especially skilful at ?is class ( "w2 :ile 9 ,france a c]ta9 ,dauffe _h almo/ a monopoly 9 ! production ( /eel objects4 ,c]ta9ly "s ( ! op5-"w /eel buttons ( ! "t--,engli% z well z ,fr5*--are jewels ( a v high ord]4 ,bracelets 7 mo/ly =m$ ( b&s ( velvet ) oval clasps4 ,! clasp 0 decorat$ 9 a v>iety ( ways1 & 0 v frequ5tly fitt$ ) a pa9t$ or enamell$ m9iature4 ,! practice ( we>+ m9iatures 9 ?is way seems to h be5 a common "o1 judg+ by ! num]\s adv]tisem5ts ins]t$ 9 ! ,london ,public ,adv]tis] ab\t ! middle ( ! c5tury by +5i\s arti/s1 will+ on reasonable t]ms to pa9t elegant portraits 9 m9iature = bracelets1 r+s1 etc4 ,madame de ,*amill>t _h among/ o!r jewels ,un petit portrait en mignature en =me de bracelet g>ny de quatre diamants1 mont en or4 ,9 fact1 accord+ to ,font5ay1 ! t]ms bracelet & bote portrait _h = a "t practically ! same mean+4#ahg ,cameos 7 sometimes employ$ z bracelet clasps1 b n to ! same ext5t z !y 7 subsequ5tly "u ! ,empire4 ,9 ! ,biblio?que ,nationale at ,p>is are two portrait cameos 9 s>donyx 7,nos4 #ghh & #ibg7 :i* s]v$ z ! clasps ( ! bracelets ( ,madame de ,pompad\r1 & 7 bequea!d by h] to ,l\is ,,xv 9 #agfd4 ,! "w ( ! celebrat$ gem-engrav] ,jacques ,guay1 ! "o repres5ts ,h5ri ,,iv1 & ! o!r1 :i* is sign$1 ,l\is ,,xv4 ,! m\nt+ ( ea*1 an admirable example ( ,fr5* jewel-"w ( ! "t1 is =m$ ( a circlet ( em]alds arrang$ 9 ! mann] ( a laurel wrea?1 & ti$ at int]vals by cords ( rose diamonds t]m9at+ above & bel[ 9 knots4 ,among o!r decorations = bracelets1 m5tion may be made ( ! celebrat$ enamels produc$ at ,batt]sea betwe5 #agej & #agge1 v _m ( :i*1 oval 9 %ape1 7 set 9 gold frames s z to be easily m\nt$ 9 bracelets4 ,! productions ( ! rival e/abli%m5t at ,bil/on1 9 ,/af=d%ire1 7 simil>ly employ$1 &1 l ! =m]1 7 frequ5tly worn z buttons4 #ahg ,les bij\x anci5s et mod]nes1 p4 #bid4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xlvii ,,eighte5?-,,c5tury ,,necklaces1 ,,etc4 ,! f+] r+ 9 ! eighte5? c5tury 0 a p>ticul>ly fav\rite jewel4 ,t consid]able att5tion 0 paid at ! "t to ! design & decoration ( ! r+1 may be judg$ f ,b\rguet's designs1 :i* conta9 patt]ns = enamel-"w int5d$ = its enri*m5t4 ,! beauty ( ! s5tim5ts display$ on ! r+s ( ! "t is n[h]e m *>m+ly express$ ?an on an ,engli% w$d+-r+ at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 :i* is =m$ ( two h&s 9 :ite enamel1 hold+ betwe5 ! ?umbs & fir/ f+]s a rose diamond 9 ! %ape ( a he>t set 9 silv] & surm\nt$ ) a jewell$ coronet4 ,x be>s ! date #agjf 7,pl4 ,,xxxvi1 #c74 ,o!r r+s ( simil> /yle h ! bezel =m$ ( two preci\s /ones 9 ! =m ( he>ts unit$ by a knot4 ,r+s :i* s]v$ simply z s\v5irs ( affection 7 v popul>4 ,9 addition to ! pla9 gold r+ engrav$ ) a posy or motto1 7 r+s conta9+ a l s5tim5t read by means ( ! fir/ lett]s ( ! /ones ) :i* !y are set4 ,! mo/ typical r+ ( ! p]iod is p]haps ! m>quise r+1 :i* dates f ! second half ( ! c5tury4 ,! bezel1 :i* is oblong1 & ei!r oval or octagonal1 is (t5 ( su* size t x cov]s ! :ole jo9t ( ! f+]4 ,x is =m$ ( a plaque ( transp>5t blue glass on matt$ gold1 surr\nd$ ) diamonds1 & set ei!r ) a s+le diamond1 or ) sev]al arrang$ at regul> int]vals1 sometimes 9 ! =m ( a b\quet4 ,(t5 in/ead ( diamonds are pa/es & ev5 m>casite4 ,( o!r v>ieties ( r+s ( ! "t x is necess>y only to m5tion ^? set ) ,w$gwood cameos1 or ) /ones su* z moss-agates1 & a =m ( agate some:at simil>1 b ( light] col\r1 call$ ! mo*a /one4 ,m\rn+ & memorial r+s1 ( :i* ?is p]iod 0 s prolific1 w be spok5 ( subsequ5tly4 ,an ornam5t t %[$ a peculi>ly wide developm5t ?r\gh\t ! eighte5? c5tury 0 ! %oe-buckle4 ,v>i\s k9ds ( buckles are record$ 9 ! ,caution to ! ,public1 issu$ 9 #agcc1 9 connection ) 8 fam\s w>e1 by ,edw>d1 ! son ( ,*ri/oph] ,p9*beck4 ,!y include ! foll[+3 buckles = ladies' brea/s1 /ock-buckles1 %oe-buckles1 knee-buckles1 girdle-buckles4 ,( ^! ! mo/ important 0 ! buckle worn on ! %oes ( e "o--man woman1 & *ild--atta*$ to ! lat*et or /rap pass+ ov] ! in/ep4 ,x assum$ all sorts ( =ms & 0 made & enri*$ ) e conceivable mat]ial4 ,x is int]e/+ to obs]ve t 9 spite ( ! imm5se numb] produc$1 h>dly any two pairs ( buckles are precisely alike--?is is %[n 9 ! case ( ! collection ( ,sir ,s4 ,ponsonby ,fane1 :i* conta9s upw>ds ( f\r hundr$ specim5s4 ,t[>ds ! la/ ye>s ( ! c5tury buckles began to be supplant$ by %oe /r+s4 ,dur+ ?is p]iod ( transition _m attempts 7 made to fo/] _! use4#ahh ,on tickets to public ent]ta9m5ts at ! "t "o occasionally f9ds a notice t ,g5tlem5 _c be admitt$ ) %oe /r+s4 ,! latt]1 h[ev]1 won ! day1 & ab\t ! ye> #ahjj %oe-buckles disappe>$ f use4 #ahh ,see ,connoisseur1 ,,xii1 p4 #ha4 ,! *atela9e 0 p]haps ! mo/ *>act]i/ic ( all eighte5?-c5tury ornam5ts4 ,x 0 exce$+ly popul>1 & =m$1 x may be obs]v$1 a v fav\rite object ( ! "t = a w$d+ pres5t4 ,x usually consi/$ ( a %ield ) a /\t hook1 susp5d$ f :i* 7 sev]al *a9s unit$ by ano!r plate or %ield :i* c>ri$ ! wat*4 ,besides ?is 7 two or m *a9s = hold+ ! wat*-key or seals4 ,extraord9>y skill 0 ex]cis$ 9 ! elaboration ( *atela9es4 ,! plaques1 h+$ or unit$ by *a9s1 )/ood ! incursion ( ! preci\s /one t dom9at$ all o!r =ms ( jewell]y1 & af=d$ peculi> opportunities = ! display ( ! art ( ! goldsmi? 9 *as$ & rep\ss metal-"w enri*$ ) exquisite enamels4 ,! jewell]'s :ole arti/ic skill 0 ?us exhibit$1 n only ^u ! %ields1 b ^u ! solid l9ks ( ! *a9s & ^u ! v>i\s breloques hung !refrom4 ,! *ief ( ! latt] 0 ( c\rse ! wat*4 ,its dial-plate 0 enri*$ ) enamel1 & *as$ & col\r$ gold3 ev5 ! h&s :5 made ( gold %[$ a high degree ( skill$ workman%ip )9 a v small space4 ,! pr9cipal ornam5tal "p 01 h[ev]1 ! out] case2 & x may be ma9ta9$ t !re 0 n any species ( "w connect$ ) ! goldsmi?'s art t 0 n display$ 9 its f9e/ =m ^u wat*-cases1 m especially 9 ! "t ( ,l\is ,,xvi4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xlviii ,,eighte5?-,,c5tury ,,*atela9es ,beside ! wat* 0 hung ! wat*-key & seals1 & all sorts ( ornam5tal knick-knacks1 z tuis & su*-l4 ,! elaborate *atela9e ^u :i* ne>ly e conceivable k9d ( tr9ket c\ld be atta*$1 is ! equipage ?us describ$ by ,lady ,m>y ,wortley ,montagu 9 h] f\r? ,t[n ,eclogue3-- ,behold ?is equipage by ,ma!rs wr\ght ,) fifty gu9eas 7a great p5'or?67 b\ght6 ,see on ! too?-pick ,m>s & ,cupid /rive1 ,& bo? ! /ruggl+ figures seem to live4 ,^u ! bottom see ! ,que5's bright face2 ,a myrtle foliage r\nd ! ?imble case2 ,jove1 ,jove himself does on ! sciss>s %9e1 ,! metal & ! workman%ip div9e4 ,:ile wom5 c>ri$ elaborate *atela9es1 m5 hung f ! wat* 9 ! fob-pocket bun*es ( seals :i* dangl$ b5ea? _! embroid]$ wai/coats4 ,?us 9 ,monsieur la ,mode1 publi%$ ab\t #agec1 we read (-- ,a repeat] by ,graham1 :i* ! h\rs reveals2 ,almo/ ov]balanc$ ) nick-nacks & seals4 ,x 0 ! seal above all :i* exp]i5c$ p>ticul> arti/ic developm5t4 ,ev] s9ce ! sixte5? c5tury ! seal _h be5 worn 9 addition to ! signet r+4 ,?\gh hung p]haps l a pom&] f a *a9 at ! neck or f ! girdle1 ! seal seems to h be5 b r>ely display$ on ! p]son until ! g5]al introduction 9 ! e>ly sev5te5? c5tury ( ! wat*1 to :i* = m ?an a c\ple ( c5turies x 0 a regul> accompanim5t4 ,! majority ( sev5te5?-c5tury seals are ( silv] ) ! arms engrav$ 9 ! metal2 o!rs ( /eel are on swivels & h ?ree faces2 o!rs1 aga91 ( gold set ) /ones engrav$ ) h]aldic devices1 h f9ely work$ %anks1 occasionally enri*$ ) delicate enamel-"w4 ,! gold seals ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 :i* are among ! be/ examples extant ( rococo jewell]y1 are ( op5-"w 9 ! =m ( scroll & %ell patt]ns1 ( admirable design & workman%ip4 ,x is out ( ! "q to attempt a description ( ! num]\s attractive =ms ^! p5d5t seals assum$1 or ! peculi> int]e/ !y possess f an h]aldic po9t ( view4 ,ab\t ! ye> #aggb fa%ionable m5 c>ri$ a wat* 9 ea* fob-pocket1 f :i* hung bun*es ( seals & *a9s4 ,f ! cu/om set 9 ,engl& ( introduc+ mascul9e fa%ions into dress1 ladies likewise wore two wat*es1 "o on ea* side1 toge!r ) rattl+ breloques1 seals1 & o!r app5dages4 ,9 addition to ! real wat* ) beautifully enamell$ back :i* adorn$ ! left side1 !y wore on ! "r :at 0 call$ a fausse montre or false wat*4 ,^! false wat*es 71 h[ev]1 (t5 little less co/ly ?an ! g5u9e article1 be+ made ( gold & silv]1 ) jewell$ & enamell$ backs4 ,! front _h ei!r an imitation dial-plate1 "s fanciful device1 or a p9-cu%ion4 ,= ^? ( less ample means ! fausse montre 0 made ( gilt metal or ev5 ( col\r$ foils4 ,,*apt] ,,xxxiii ,,n9ete5?-,,c5tury ,,jewell]y ,,! ,,mod]n ,,revival ,jewell]y ( ! n9ete5? c5tury pres5ts a v v>iegat$ picture bo? z reg>ds mat]ial & te*nique1 z well z 9 ! display ( e conceivable /yle4 ,x is n s mu* a p>ticul> "* ( its own t has m>k$ ! jewell]y ( ea* epo* ( ! c5tury1 z a peculi> =m ( reproduction or r recon/ruction ( old] /yles ( art1 bas$ = ! mo/ "p on false traditions4 ,! :ole p]iod 0 an eclectic "o1 & ! majority ( its productions--! result ( no?+ less ?an aimless hesitation & fruitless endeav\r to revive ! =ms ( ! pa/--display at lea/ d\btful ta/e4 ,?r\gh\t ! great] "p ( ! "t ,france l$ ! fa%ion1 & e "o ( ! political *anges %e und]w5t left its m>k on h] arti/ic productions4 ,aft] ! desolate epo* ( ! ,revolution1 "u :i* ! :ole /&>d ( jewell]y 0 measurably l[]$1 a revival ( some?+ approa*+ luxury 0 exp]i5c$ "u ! ,directory4 ,?is 0 succe$$ ab\t ! ye> #ahjj1 ow+ to ! /imulat+ dom9ance ( ! ,fir/ ,consul1 by circum/ances ( real luxury4 ,! p]iod dat+ f ,napoleon's accession to ! ,imp]ial ,dignity f\r ye>s lat]1 till ab\t #ahad1 0 "o ( consid]able importance 9 ! hi/ory ( jewell]y4 ,! sev]e & academic influ5ce ( ! lead+ & mo/ popul> arti/ ( ! day1 ! pa9t] ,david1 & ( 8 pupils1 ) _! extravagant ta/e = ! antique1 0 univ]sally felt4 ,yet :ile ! antique celebrat$ its triumph 9 all directions1 ! ,empire fail$ to %ake itself entirely free f eighte5?-c5tury /yles4 ,z f> inde$ z jewell]y 0 conc]n$1 ! classical revival _c be said to h be5 altoge!r unhappy2 = its ornam5ts are n )\t a c]ta9 *>m4 ,l all else1 !y brea!d ! _s ( ! pa/1 & are n less =mal & rigid ?an ! o!r art productions ( ! p]iod4 ,x 0 "u ! %ort-liv$ reign ( ! associat$ k+s1 t]m$ ! ,directory1 t ! ta/e = ! antique fir/ became ?or\ghly dom9ant4 ,jewell]y ( all k9ds assum$ classical =ms4 ,! few individuals :o 7 =tunate en\gh to procure !m wore anci5t ,greek & ,roman jewels2 ! re/ _h to be cont5t ) facsimiles ( objects discov]$ at ,pompeii1 or simple copies adapt$ f repres5tations on e>ly vase pa9t+s1 sculptures1 or engrav$ gems4 ,s exagg]at$ became ! en?usiasm = ! antique t1 foll[+ ! lead ( ,madame ,talli5 & ,madame ,rcami]1 ! fa%ionables ( ! p]iod adopt$ 9 its entirety1 )\t reg>d = diff]5ces ( climate1 :at !y deem$ to be classical co/ume1 & appe>$ on public prom5ades 9 ,p>is ) un/ock+$ feet 9 s&als t all[$ !m to exhibit jewels ^u _! toes4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,xlix ,,empire ,,head-,,ornam5ts ,! affect$ classicism ( ! ,republic & ,fir/ ,empire /imulat$ ! use ( engrav$ gems4 ,f> f cameos & ! less decorative intaglios be+ consid]$ out ( place ) f9e preci\s /ones1 !y (t5 occupi$ positions ( hon\r1 surr\nd$ & m\nt$ occasionally ) important diamonds4 ,9 ! majority ( cases1 h[ev]1 !y 7 us$ alone & 7 made up into special ornam5ts by !mselves4 ,antiques 7 worn :5 procurable1 b ! great] numb] ( gems 7 ( mod]n manufacture1 c>efully /udi$ bo? z reg>ds te*nique & /yle f anci5t examples4 ,some:at lat]1 small mosaics1 on :i* 7 figur$ classical subjects or build+s ( anci5t ,rome1 7 also employ$4 ,^!1 toge!r ) cameos1 g5]ally on %ell1 7 produc$ 9 quantities1 p>ticul>ly 9 ,italy1 :]e cameo cutt]s & mosaic work]s /ill c>ry on a some:at langui%+ trade 9 ornam5ts ( ?is nature1 ,v5ice1 ,flor5ce1 & ,rome %>+ 9 ! indu/ry ( mosaic jewell]y2 ,rome1 ,naples1 & ! :ole ( ,s\!rn ,italy 9 t ( cameos4 ,! production ( bo? k9ds ( objects is n[ 9 a /]ilis$ condition4 ,!y h entirely lo/ _! e>li] qualities1 = ! reason t !y f9d b little fav\r & h ceas$ to be worn by ! upp] classes4 ,except dur+ ! height ( ! ,fir/ ,empire ! fa%ion = engrav$ gems nev] took a v ?or\gh hold4 ,ladies h seldom a ta/e = ar*ology4 ,if a few1 9 accordance ) ! curr5t idea1 affect$ a sob] & ref9$ /yle ( ornam5t1 ! majority soon we>i$ ( ! burd5 ( cameos 9 ! necklace & bracelet1 & pref]r$ sp>kl+ /ones to ! delicate cutt+ ( ! gem4 ,! g5]al & in/9ctive pref]5ce = brilliant jewels did m ?an any?+ to kill ! attempt$ employm5t ( antique =ms & designs4 ,z reg>ds te*nique1 ! metal-"w ( ! e>ly n9ete5? c5tury g5]ally display$ consid]able pov]ty ( mat]ial4 ,! gold1 if n p9*beck imitation1 0 usually ?91 light1 & ( l[ quality1 ) simple designs 9 ! =m ( clu/]s ( grapes4 ,bord]s ( leaves & fl[]s 9 ! antique /yle 7 /amp$ & *as$ sometimes 9 op5-"w1 ) small rose-%ap$ ornam5ts appli$4 ,granulat$1 bead$1 & purl$ "w 0 mu* employ$1 & ! surface ( ! metal 0 (t5 matt$4 ,arti/ic effect 9 *as$ "w 0 produc$ by ! use ( ornam5tal inlays1 or r ov]lays1 ( col\r$ gold4 ,actual jewel-"w & sett+s1 z a rule1 display$ good quality ( workman%ip4 ,! g5]al t5d5cy lay 9 ! direction ( ! col\r$ /ones popul> 9 anci5t times--! topaz1 p]idot1 aquam>9e1 & ame?y/2 toge!r ) preci\s /ones1 su* z em]alds1 rubies1 sapphires1 & diamonds1 & ) pe>ls4 ,! latt] 7 g5]ally res]v$ only = ! mo/ sumptu\s ornam5ts1 b 7 occasionally us$ 9 conjunction ) jewels ( less value4 ,! /ones mo/ commonly us$ 7 c>nelians1 moss-agates1 turquoises1 g>nets1 p9k & yell[ topazes1 z well z coral1 m+l$ toge!r4 ,w$gwood w>e & its imitations1 popul> 9 ! latt] ye>s ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 cont9u$ = "s "t to meet ) fav\r1 :ile pa/e jewell]y 0 also worn to "s ext5t4 ,on e species ( jewell]y ! ta/e = ! antique 0 cle>ly visible4 ,ornam5ts = ! head took ! =m ( frontlets & diadems1 hair-combs1 hair-p9s1 triple *a9s1 & /r+s ( pe>ls4 ,e>r+s 7 9 g5]al use1 toge!r ) necklaces1 broo*es1 bracelets1 r+s1 & girdles4 ,! *ief head-ornam5ts 7 wide metal combs1 fix$ 9 ! hair 9 su* a mann] z to be visible f ! front4 ,! g5]al =m ( ! ,empire comb1 ) its upright r[s ( pe>ls or coral1 is well kn[n1 s9ce a numb] ( examples exi/4 ,at ! same "t frontlets or t\rs de tte 7 worn on ! upp] "p ( ! =ehead & ov] ! hair4 ,^!1 enri*$ ) pe>ls1 cameos1 or preci\s /ones1 took ! =m ( broad b&s or coronets4 ,ano!r ornam5t1 :i* did n1 h[ev]1 come into fa%ion till ab\t #ahbj1 0 ! f]ronnire--a b& r\nd ! head1 ) a jewel 9 ! middle ( ! =ehead4 ,x 0 g5]ally a f9e gold *a91 b might be made ( velvet ribbon or silk5 cord1 or /r+s ( beads4 ,! orig9 ( its title has be5 giv5 9 connection ) ,italian jewell]y ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,cameos & moss-agates ent]$ l>gely into ! composition ( necklaces z well z ! v>i\s col\r$ /ones m5tion$ above4 ,cameos (t5 assum$ consid]able proportions4 ,!y 7 occasionally set ) preci\s /ones1 & 7 l9k$ toge!r ) f9e *a9s4 ,bracelets 7 mu* worn1 ?ree on ea* arm3 "o on ! upp] "p ( ! arm1 a second j above ! elb[1 & a ?ird ^u ! wri/4 ,!y 7 usually compos$ ( a numb] ( small *a9s1 or ev5 a b& ( velvet2 :ile ! clasp 0 =m$ by a cameo1 or else an ame?y/1 p]idot1 or topaz set 9 /amp$ & pi]c$ gold4 ,girdles = ! mo/ "p 7 fa%ion$ 9 ! same mann] z bracelets1 ) a l>ge cameo on ! clasp4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,l ,,e>ly ,,n9ete5?-,,c5tury ,,jewell]y ,! pictures 9 ! gall]y at ,v]sailles af=d p]haps ! be/ idea ( ornam5ts 9 ! ,empire /yle2 s9ce jewell]y is m cle>ly repres5t$ on ,fr5* portraits ?an on any o!rs ( ! "t4 ,among ! mo/ /rik+ ( su* portraits are ^? ( ,m>ie ,paul9e1 ,pr9cess ,borghese1 by ,lefvre1 ( ,c>ol9e ,buonap>te1 ,que5 ( ,naples1 by ,madame ,vige-,lebrun1 & ( ,madame ,mre1 by ,gr>d4 ,! fir/ has a high comb & b&eau1 e>r+s1 & girdle1 all decorat$ ) cameos1 ! second a p>ure ( pe>ls & cameos1 & ! ?ird a head-ornam5t m\nt$ ) a s+le l>ge cameo4 ,! coronation ( ,napoleon 9 #ahjd furni%$ ! pa9t] ,david ) ! subject ( a picture unrivall$ 9 its k9d--,le ,sacre de ,napoleon ,ier ,notre-,dame1 :i* is exhibit$ 9 ! ,l\vre4 ,?is gr&iose production1 besides be+ a truly epic r5d]+ ( a great hi/orical ev5t1 s]ves z a valuable docum5t 9 ! hi/ory ( jewell]y1 9 t x repres5ts jewell]y ( ! mo/ magnific5t k9d c>ri$ by ,joseph9e1 ! pr9cesses1 & ! ladies ( hon\r4 ,! ,empress is %[n we>+ comb & diadem ( preci\s /ones1 brilliant e>r+s1 & a bracelet on ! wri/ =m$ ( two r[s ( jewels unit$ ) a cameo4 ,h] suite h1 besides1 necklaces & girdles m\nt$ 9 sev]al cases ) cameos4 ,joseph9e h]self possess$ a p]fect passion = engrav$ gems1 & %e actually induc$ ,napoleon to h a numb] ( antique cameos & intaglios remov$ f ! gem collection 9 ! ,royal ,libr>y & made up into a complete p>ure ( jewell]y = h] own use4 ,a ,g]man speciality ( ! expir+ ,empire 0 ! ca/-iron jewell]y1 br\ght into fav\r l>gely on acc\nt ( ! prevail+ sc>city ( gold & silv]4 ,a f\ndry = its production 0 fir/ set up 9 #ahjd at ,b]l91 :]e articles ( great f95ess 7 ca/ 9 s& m\lds4 ,9 ! ye> #ahac1 ! "t ( ! ris+ aga9/ ! ,napoleonic usurpation1 m ?an elev5 ?\s& pieces ( iron jewell]y 7 turn$ out1 & among !m five ?\s& crosses ( ! new ord] ( ! ,iron ,cross4 ,9 t ye> appe>$ ! well-kn[n iron r+s4 ,dur+ ! ,w> ( ,lib]ation1 :5 e man jo9$ ! ,prussian regim5ts to fight aga9/ ! ,fr5*1 ! patriotic ladies :o rema9$ beh9d laid at ! ,alt> ( ! ,fa!rl& _! valuable jewels1 :i* 7 melt$ d[n = ! b5efit ( ! national w>-*e/4 ,= ! articles ?us surr5d]$ !y receiv$ 9 ex*ange f ! ,gov]nm5t iron f+] r+s be>+ ! words ,e+etaus*t zum ,wohle des ,vat]l&es1 or ! fam\s inscription ,gold gab i* fr ,eis54 ,9 addition to crosses & r+s1 o!r jewels1 su* z diadems1 necklaces1 broo*es1 & bracelets1 7 execut$ 9 ca/ iron1 op5-work$ & 9 relief 7,pl4 ,,li1 #h74 ,complete p>ures compris+ a comb1 necklace1 e>r+s1 & bracelets are n infrequ5tly met )1 & ! "n ( ! manufactur]1 su* z ,geiss1 ,b]l91 etc41 is sometimes f\nd /amp$ on !m4 ,mo/ ( ! "w is 9 ! antique ta/e1 & is occasionally adorn$ ) classical heads 9 ! mann] ( ,w$gwood & ,tassie4 ,consid]+ ! mat]ial & me?od ( production1 ! f95ess & lace-l delicacy ( ?is iron jewell]y is little less ?an m>vell\s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,li ,,buckles ,,& ,,necklaces ,,late ,,eighte5? ,,& ,,e>ly ,,n9ete5? ,,c5turies ,ano!r k9d ( n9ete5?-c5tury ornam5t1 p>ticul>ly popul> 9 ! fir/ half ( ! c5tury1 0 hair jewell]y4 ,x 0 fav\r$ possibly 9 "s cases less by incl9ation ?an by t necessity :i* _h orig9ally l$ ! way = ! use ( iron & o!r less valuable mat]ials4 ,f+] r+s1 bracelets1 necklaces1 & wat*-*a9s 7 plait$ ( ! hair ( ! dep>t$1 broo*es & m$allions m\nt$ ) x1 & ev5 ornam5tal l&scapes con/ruct$ ( /r&s ( human hair4 ,hair 0 worn z a gift ( affection f ! liv+2 b x 0 *iefly employ$ = m\rn+ or memorial jewell]y4 ,x w be ref]r$ to aga9 :5 m\rn+ jewell]y is dealt )4 ,we ent] ab\t ! ye> #ahcj into ! ,romantic p]iod--! days ( ! h]o9es ( ,balzac1 ! days :5 ,byron & ,ossian 7 la mode1 ! days ( a fancy *ivalry & m$ival s5tim5tality1 ( ,sir ,walt] ,scott1 & above all ( ! ,go?ic revival4 ,go?ic motives1 rampant 9 ar*itecture1 make _! appe>ance also on bookb9d+s1 furniture1 & o!r ?+s1 & influ5ce jewell]y to a c]ta9 degree4 ,among ! lead]s ( ! movem5t s f> z x affect$ jewell]y 7 ! goldsmi?s ,from5t ,meurice1 & ,rob91 ^: productions1 execut$ 9 accordance ) ! ,romantic ta/e1 assum$ ! =m ( arm\r$ knights1 on foot1 or fully equipp$ on horseback1 lords & ladies 9 m$ival co/ume1 & jewels :i* took ! %ape ( compositions ( a simil> elegant nature4 ,at ?is p]iod cameos 7 /ill worn1 b seldom ( /rictly classical "*4 ,s5tim5tal hair jewell]y likewise cont9u$1 z did ! iron jewell]y4 ,! latt]1 h[ev]1 no long] display$ classical =ms1 b debas$ ,go?ic designs4 ,*a9s ( v>i\s k9ds 7 9 consid]able fav\r4 ,!y 7 usually loop$ up at int]vals ) circul> or oblong plaques ( ?9 & col\r$ gold set ) small turquoises & g>nets4 ,) ! developm5t ( ma*9]y appe>$ ?9 goldwork1 ornam5t$ ) /amp$ & press$ designs4 ,"w ( ?is k9d1 *>act]i/ic ( its fir/ decades1 ext5d$ f> into ! n9ete5? c5tury4 ,z f> z m5's jewell]y is conc]n$ !re is little or no?+ to *ronicle4 ,/rangely en\gh1 ! mascul9e delight 9 spl5did jewels t _h exi/$ up to ! end ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 came all at once to an end1 along ) t old] _w on ! ru9s ( :i* ,napoleon rose4 ,almo/ all t rema9$ to !m 0 ! bun* ( seals1 (t5 ( consid]able size1 t hung by a silk5 cord f ! fob4 ,x is true t occasionally beaux & mac>onis actually wore e>r+s4 ,b ^! 7 n employ$ solely z ornam5ts1 b l>gely z ! result ( a fanciful idea1 /ill preval5t 9 c]ta9 qu>t]s1 ( ! value ( su* objects aga9/ diseases ( ! eye4 ,fa%ion next1 ab\t ! middle ( ! c5tury1 h>k$ back to rococo1 & imitat$ ! /yle ( ,l\is ,,xv4 ,x 0 rococo ( a k9d1 b lay z f> f ! eighte5? c5tury z did ,romantic ,go?ic f ! ,go?ic ( ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies4 ,design = ! mo/ "p 0 deplorably bad1 defects 9 ?is direction be+ pass$ (f "u a glitt] ( /ones4 ,in/ead ( ! close sett+ :i* _h s long satisfi$ ! jewell]1 op5 sett+ = preci\s /ones became univ]sal4 ,c\ntless old & valuable ornam5ts p]i%$4 ,! diamonds & o!r preci\s /ones 7 pick$ out ( !m & transf]r$ to new] sett+s1 & ! beautiful old metal-"w 0 ru?lessly melt$ d[n4 ,_m f9e jewels dur+ ! c\rse ( ! n9ete5? c5tury h likewise be5 spoil$ & r$uc$ 9 value by _! own]s attempt+ to adapt !m to a prevail+ fa%ion4 ,va/ is ! numb] ( family treasures t h und]gone ! fate ( rem\nt+4 ,x is to be hop$ t ! new-born int]e/ 9 ! beautiful "w ( e>li] craftsm5 may help to save :at is left f ! same sort ( de/ruction t ! anci5t *ur*es ( our l& h und]gone z ! result ( ill-judg$ re/oration4 ,,! ,,mod]n ,,revival ,long prior to ! developm5ts t h tak5 place 9 rec5t ye>s1 att5tion _h be5 attract$ to ! arti/ic qualities ( gold & an impetus giv5 to ! manipulation ( ! simple mat]ial4 ,x 0 e>ly 9 ! sixties t notice 0 fir/ drawn to ! gold jewell]y !n be+ execut$ 9 ,rome1 & ! discov]ies t _h be5 effect$ 9 ! work+ ( ! wr\ght metal by ! firm ( ,ca/ellani4 ,! head ( ?is fam\s family 0 ! goldsmi? ,=tunato ,pio ,ca/ellani1 "o ( ! be/-kn[n jewell]s & deal]s ( 8 day4 ,9 #ahad1 at an e>ly age1 he />t$ a bus9ess 9 ,rome1 :i* he develop$ ab\t #ahbf on ! l9es ( ! antique "w4 ,! process ( production ( ! old granulat$ gold jewell]y ( ! anci5t ,etruscans--t 9 :i* ! surface is cov]$ ) m9ute gra9s ( gold set ) absolute regul>ity--_h long be5 a puzzle & problem to jewell]s4 ,ca/ellani 0 deeply int]e/$ 9 ! lo/ art1 & se>*$ ,italy ?r\gh to f9d "s survival ( x4 ,at la/ 9 ,/4 ,angelo 9 ,vado1 a village ( ! ,ap5n9es1 9 ! corn] ( ! ,umbrian ,m>*es1 he f\nd a ca/e ( local goldsmi?s :o _h pres]v$ x 9 :at seem$ to be an unbrok5 tradition4 ,he transport$ "s ( !m to ,rome1 & toge!r ) 8 sons ,aless&ro & ,augu/o succe$$ 9 imitat+ ! t9y gold5 gra9s ( ! ,etruscans & sold]+ !m on to ! surface ( jewels4 ,! "w he accompli%$ 9 ?is direction has become fam\s all ! _w ov]4 ,9 #ahea ,=tunato retir$1 & on 8 dea? 9 #ahfe 8 prop]ty 0 divid$--,augu/o reta9+ ! bus9ess1 ,aless&ro sett+ himself up z a collector & deal]4 ,augu/o1 born #ahbi1 c>ri$ on ! traditions ( 8 fa!r's ateli]1 & 0 aft]w>ds promot$ to ! ,director%ip ( ! ,capitol9e ,museum4 ,aless&ro1 ! eld] bro!r1 0 p]haps "o ( ! mo/ /rik+ p]sonalities ( 8 age4 ,born 9 #ahbd1 he fir/ assi/$ 8 fa!r2 b 8 political op9ions1 :i* l$ him to take an active "p 9 ! revolution>y movem5t 9 ,rome 9 #ahdh1 & implicat$ him 9 ! conspiracy ( #aheb1 result$ 9 8 imprisonm5t 9 ! ,ca/le ( ,/4 ,angelo2 b successfully feign+ madness1 he 0 lib]at$ & s5t out ( ! ,pontifical ,/ates4 ,he !n proce$$ to travel ab\t exploit+ ! productions ( ! ,casa ,ca/ellani4 ,gradually he devot$ himself to ar*ological pursuits4 ,8 k ( ^! matt]s 0 pr(\nd1 & he became ! f9e/ exp]t ( 8 day4 ,he 0 cont9ually collect+1 & dealt l>gely1 8 *ief cu/om]s be+ ! museums ( ,europe & ,am]ica4 ,! f9e/ ( ! antique jewell]y 9 ! ,briti% ,museum 0 pur*as$ f him 9 #ahgb-ahgc4 ,a few ye>s be=e1 9 #ahfg1 8 unrivall$ s]ies ( peasant ornam5ts1 ga!r$ toge!r f all p>ts ( ,italy1 0 acquir$ by ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum1 :i* also made l>ge pur*ases at ! sale t took place aft] 8 dea? 9 #ahhc4 ,! art ( filigree & granulation practis$ by ,ca/ellani 0 c>ri$ to /ill great] p]fection by ano!r ,italian1 ,c>lo ,giuliano1 :o 0 l>gely indebt$ to ! discov]ies ( 8 compatriot4 ,examples ( 8 "w1 ) t ( ,ca/ellani1 are 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4 ,s9ce 8 dea?1 8 bus9ess h\se 9 ,london has be5 cont9u$ by 8 sons4 ,ano!r ,italian :o has surpass$ bo? ,ca/ellani & ,giuliano 9 ! reproduction ( ! antique is ,melillo ( ,naples4 ,8 jewell]y1 ?\gh copi$ closely f anci5t models1 has a c]ta9 mod]n ca*et & is 9 fact a translation ( ! mo/ ref9$ anci5t art into mod]n language4 ,an em95t ,engli% jewell]1 ^: "n is wor?y ( record1 0 ,rob]t ,phillips ( ,london1 :o di$ 9 #ahha4 ,he also came "u ! influ5ce ( ,ca/ellani4 ,at ! same "t he 0 responsible = ! production ( "s ( ! mo/ orig9al "w execut$ 9 ,engl& dur+ ! ,victorian era4 ,a =]unn] 9 ,france ( ! mod]n movem5t 9 arti/ic jewell]y1 & "o entitl$ to a high place 9 ! hi/ory ( ! art1 0 ! goldsmi? ,luci5 ,falize 7b4 #ahch71 :o 0 a p>tn] ) ,m4 ,bap/1 cr[n jewell] ( ! ,second ,empire4 ,he succe$$ ,bap/ z (ficial goldsmi? to ! ,fr5* ,gov]nm5t1 & di$ 9 #ahig4 ,ano!r great ,fr5* jewell] 0 ,eugne ,font5ay1 au?or ( ! important hi/ory ( jewell]y1 :o di$ 9 #ahhe4 ,side by side ) ! improvem5t 9 ta/e :i* dur+ ! la/ few ye>s has prompt$ p to pres]ve old jewell]y1 & a g5u9e love = its peculi> & indef9able attractions :i* has induc$ !m to collect x1 ! pres5t age has witness$ a truly rem>kable revival 9 ! arti/ic production ( articles ( p]sonal ornam5t4 ,! g5]al awak5+ t has tak5 place 9 ! indu/rial arts has n[h]e made its influ5ce m /rongly felt ?an 9 respect to jewell]y4 ,ow+ to ! example set by ! highe/ arti/ic spirits1 :i* has affect$ ev5 ! ord9>y productions ( comm]ce1 !re has aris5 a new s*ool ( jewell]y1 ! residue ( :i*1 :5 ! *aff ( ecc5tricity on ! "o h& & co>se workman%ip on ! o!r is w9n[$ f x1 consi/s 9 works :i* comb9e ! *>m & s5se ( appropriat5ess requisite to objects ( p]sonal adornm5t ) qualities t m>k !m z individual works ( art4 ,! ornam5ts ( ! pa/ reveal an elem5tal tru? ( art :i* x may be to ! ultimate advantage ( ! decorative artific] ( mod]n times to /udy & to imitate4 ,!y %[1 p>ticul>ly 9 _! mo/ ref9$ p]iods1 t ! simple/ mat]ials & ! simple/ modes ( decoration c be associat$ ) beauty ( =m & purity ( design1 & t ! value ( a p]sonal ornam5t does n consi/ solely 9 ! comm]cial co/ ( ! mat]ials1 b r 9 ! arti/ic quality ( its treatm5t4 ,9 ! revival ( ! arts 9 ! latt] "p ( ! n9ete5? c5tury ! arti/ic /yles ( ! pa/ began to be c>efully /udi$1 & = ! fir/ "t 7 br\ght toge!r & exhibit$ z models4 ,!y h und\bt$ly ex]cis$ a pr(\nd influ5ce bo? on design & te*nique4 ,x is well at ! same "t to rememb] t p]sonal ornam5ts1 z inde$ all productions ( =m] times1 :i* are ?us %[n 9 museums1 mu/ n be reckon$ ) f "o /&po9t only4 ,! int5tion ( _! public display is to af=d mat]ial = in/ruction1 inve/igation1 & inspiration1 = ! craftsman1 ! /ud5t1 & ! man 9 ! /reet4 ,_! function 9 ?is respect is n only to produce arti/s & craftsm51 or ev5 connoisseurs1 b to inspire ! lay public ) a love ( beauty1 & to induce a div9e discont5t ) ! ugl9ess ) :i* x is surr\nd$4 ,?\gh x is v well to use & reproduce ! =ms & motives ( ! pa/1 an indef9ite p]si/5ce 9 t attitude is liable to be con/ru$ z a confession ( /hetic /]ility4 ,b :ile empty revivals & false adaptations are to be reject$1 ! reckless race aft] orig9ality1 result+ 9 ! ecc5tricity :i* is s rife 9 mod]n art1 %\ld especially be avoid$4 ,x is ! desire = orig9ality in/ead ( a mode/ devotion to f9e workman%ip1 a love = ! outrage\s & ! biz>re1 & a lack ( proportion1 bo? 9 =m & 9 *oice ( mat]ial1 t has ru9$ mu* ( ! jewell]y produc$ "u ! ,n\veau ,art movem5t4 ,if col\r & =m produc$ by a /udy ( h>mony & a limit$ appeal to nature c\ld be unit$ to elaboration & m9ut5ess ( f9i%1 ) symmetrical arrangem5ts fre$ f purely me*anical detail ( ornam5t2 if m insight c\ld be obta9$ into ! _s :i* produc$ ^? spl5did fragm5ts t h surviv$ f ! pa/1 !re w\ld be a gradual return to a /yle ( "w :]e9 ! inh]5t preci\sness ( mat]ial might be accompani$ by a full] appreciation ( its arti/ic possibilities1 & a way op5$ to ! re/oration ( ! art ( ! goldsmi? to ! hon\rable place x once held4 ,ap>t f matt]s ( design ! new movem5t has result$ 9 great *anges 9 ! arti/ic aspect ( jewell]y4 ,9 di/9ction to ! t5d5cy hi!rto preval5t :i* bids ! metal m\nt+ ( jewell]y to be r5d]$ almo/ invisible1 ! work+ ( gold & silv] has once aga9 become a matt] ( "s mom5t4 ,a second *ange1 due to ! /udy ( old models1 has be5 ! revival ( enamell+--an art :i* (f]s _m an opportunity = ! ex]cise ( ! craftsman's ta/e & skill1 & has once aga9 resum$ its prop] position z h&maid to ! goldsmi?4 ,a ?ird *ange has be5 ! wid] *oice & employm5t ( /ones4 ,till rec5t ye>s only ^? /ones t are reckon$ z f9e--! diamond1 ruby1 em]ald1 & sapphire--h be5 all[$ a place 9 jewell]y4 ,?\gh _! comm]cial value c nev] be set aside1 preci\s /ones are n[ valu$1 z !y 7 9 ,r5aissance times1 = ! sake ( _! decorative prop]ties4 ,! ta/e = col\r effects 9 jewell]y has result$ 9 ! adoption ( c]ta9 gems n v preci\s1 yet suffici5tly r>e1 :ile ! arti/ic value ( brok5 col\r 9 gems is beg9n+ to be appreciat$ 9 purely comm]cial productions4 ,!re is n[ a welcome t5d5cy to use su* /ones z ! aquam>9e1 p]idot1 zircon1 topaz1 t\rmal9e1 *rysoprase1 & o!rs ( beautiful col\r & high decorative value4 ,= a preci\s /one1 z has be5 truly said1 is n beautiful because x is l>ge1 or co/ly1 or extraord9>y1 b because ( its col\r1 or its position 9 "s decorative s*eme4 ,! pres5t ma/] ( ! jewell]'s art is ,r5 ,lalique ( ,p>is1 univ]sally recognis$ z ! greate/ ( mod]n arti/s 9 ?is class ( ! f9e h&icrafts4 ,he possesses a p]fect ma/]y ov] mat]ials ( all sorts1 ev5 ( su* z ivory1 horn1 & "m-(-pe>l1 & above all enamel1 especially t 9 op5 sett+s4 ,to 8 wond]ful dext]ity ( te*nique he unites a f]tile imag9ation & inf9ite res\rce ( design 9 ! direction ( naturali/ic =ms1 z fl[]s1 w+$ insects1 & human figures4 ,! /yle ( ,lalique1 fre$ entirely z x is f ! =ms ( tradition1 is c>ri$ out by sev]al arti/s ( individual tal5t1 su* z ,luci5 ,gaill>d1 ,ga/on ,laffitte1 ,georges ,f\quet1 ,comte du ,suau de la ,croix1 ,vev]1 ,r5 ,foy1 & ,l\is ,bonny4 ,x has1 9 addition1 ho/s ( imitators1 ^: productions are wr\ght ) r>e skill1 b display1 nev]!less1 s+ul> disreg>d ( appropriat5ess & utility1 & are fur!r m>r$ 9 _m cases by ecc5tricities ( design4 ,mu* orig9al1 if n always v attractive1 "w has be5 produc$ also 9 ,g]many & ,au/ria s9ce ! full expansion ( ! ,n\veau ,art movem5t ab\t ! ye> #ahig4 ,among ! fir/ 9 ,g]many to display activity 9 ! design & production ( jewell]y 9 ! new /yle h be5 ! arti/s ,hirzel & ,mhr+1 & ,piloty ( ,muni*4 ,van d] ,velde1 ,olbri*1 & ,s*ap] & ,j4 ,h4 ,w]n] ( ,b]l9 h all obta9$ a reputation = _! "w 9 ?is direction4 ,! movem5t has be5 fo/]$ ) success 9 ! lead+ art s*ools1 "u ! sup]9t5d5ce ( ,gnau? at ,nuremb]g1 ,hamm] & ,gss at ,k>lsruhe1 ,graff at ,/uttg>t & ,dresd51 & ,lu?m] at ,frank=t4 ,! *ief c5tres 9 ,g]many = ! production ( jewell]y are ,p=zheim1 ,hanau1 & ,gmnd4 ,! lead+ craftsm5 ( ,p=zheim are ,z]r5d51 ,fahrn]1 ,friessl]1 & ,/(fl]2 :ile ,gmnd possesses ! well-kn[n jewell] ,h]mann ,bau]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,lii ,,mod]n ,,fr5* ,,jewell]y ,among ! lead]s ( ! new art movem5t 9 ,au/ria are ! sculptor ,gurs*n]1 ,dietri*1 ,pruts*]1 & ,franz ,hauptmann2 :ile ,elsa ,ung]1 ,anna ,wagn]1 & ,eug5ie ,munk h c>ri$ out di/9ctive "w on ! same l9es4 ,belgium has produc$ "s able craftsm5 9 ! p]sons ( ,paul ,dubois ! sculptor1 ,ph4 ,wolf]s1 & ,van ,/rydonck4 ,! mod]n s*ool ( ,d5m>k possesses ! arti/s ,slott-,mll]1 ,b9desbll1 ,magnuss51 & ,boll94 ,engl&1 ! pione] ( ! latt]-day r5aissance ( ! decorative arts1 c boa/ ( a numb] ( craftsm5 ( di/9ction 9 arti/ic jewell]y4 ,among ! lead]s ( ! movem5t ^: /yle & individuality h secur$ !m recognition are ,mr4 ,h4 ,wilson1 ,mr4 ,h5ry ,h4 ,cunynghame1 ,mr4 & ,mrs4 ,nelson ,dawson1 ,mr4 ,c4 ,r4 ,a%bee1 ,mr4 ,h>old ,/abl]1 ,mr4 ,edg> ,simpson1 ,mr4 ,alex&] ,fi%]1 ,mrs4 ,be?une1 ,mr4 & ,mrs4 ,ar?ur ,gask91 ,mrs4 ,newman1 ,mrs4 ,traquair1 ,mrs4 ,hadaway1 ,mr4 & ,mrs4 ,p>tridge1 & ,mr4 ,f4 ,s4 ,rob9son4 ,"o may also "n ,h4,h4 ,pr9cess ,l\ise ,augu/a ( ,s*leswig-,hol/e91 & ,h4,h4 ! ,ranee ( ,s>awak1 9 addition to a numb] ( o!rs ^: "w has figur$ 9 exhibitions su* z ^? held by ! ,arts & ,crafts ,society4 ,! "n ( ,mr4 ,a4 ,laz5by ,lib]ty1 :o has done mu* to fo/] new design 9 ,engl&1 likewise des]ves m5tion4 ,messrs4 ,tiffany ( ,new ,york h %[n h[ arti/ic design may be comb9$ ) f9e & r>e gems--! natural in/9ct = :i* w h to be gratifi$ s long z jewell]y is worn4 ,a numb] ( o!r firms bo? 9 ,engl& & ,france h 9 rec5t ye>s display$ rem>kable advance 9 ?is direction1 also1 z 9 ! case ( ,messrs4 ,b\*]on1 9 a skilful comb9ation ( col\r$ /ones1 z well z 9 a res]v$ use ( enamel4 ,a hopeful sign = ! future ( ?is ref9$ art is ! ?or\ghness ) :i* x is taught 9 s*ools ( art ?r\gh\t ! c\ntry1 & ! eag]ness & success ) :i* x is practis$ also by a numb] ( gift$ amateurs4 ,! "w produc$1 ?\gh f> beh9d t ( cont95tal craftsm5 9 po9t ( execution1 avoids _m ( ! extravagances ( ! new art1 & exhibits1 = ! mo/ "p1 ta/e & res]ve 9 design1 & adaptability to ultimate uses4 ,,*apt] ,,xxxiv ,,peasant ,,jewell]y ,until ! middle ( ! n9ete5? c5tury ! peasants & natives ( e c\ntry di/rict ( ,europe wore mode/ gold & silv] jewell]y1 ( small pecuni>y value1 b ( great arti/ic int]e/4 ,a few ye>s ago peasant jewell]y 0 seldom s\ght =1 & comp>atively unkn[n2 & collectors1 bett] in=m$ 9 o!r respects1 did n ?9k ( sav+ x f ! melt+-pot4 ,x is n[1 h[ev]1 beg9n+ to attract "s ( ! att5tion x des]ves4 ,?is old peasant jewell]y has at ! pres5t day ne>ly all pass$ out ( ! h&s ( its orig9al own]s4 ,! *ief cause ( its disappe>ance has be5 increas$ facilities = travell+1 :i* result$ 9 jewell]y fa%ion$ :olesale 9 indu/rial c5tres be+ di/ribut$ to ! remote/ rural di/ricts4 ,! dem&s ( ! mod]n collector1 & improvem5ts 9 pres5t-day ta/e among c]ta9 ( ! cultur$ classes1 :i* h l$ to ! adoption ( old articles ( jewell]y = p]sonal use1 h also contribut$ to ! disappe>ance ( peasant jewell]y 9 rec5t ye>s4 ,! wiles ( ! deal] h induc$ peasants to yield up heirlooms1 :i*1 h&$ d[n = g5]ations1 h escap$ ! fate ( ! jewels ( ! weal?y & m fa%ionable4 ,! great museums ( art & indu/ry spr++ up ev]y:]e1 especially 9 ,g]many1 h all obta9$ a g5]\s %>e ( ! spoil1 & h pres]v$ x f :at1 until lately1 w\ld h be5 inevitable de/ruction4 ,s completely 9 mo/ p>ts has ?is old jewell]y gone out ( use among ! peasantry1 t h>dly a trace rema9s ( a once fl\ri%+ indu/ry c>ri$ on by local craftsm5 work+ on traditional l9es1 & untrammell$ by ! arti/ic fa%ion ( ! mom5t4 ,ma*9es driv5 by /eam p[] h cru%$ out ( exi/5ce skill to make ?+s by h&1 & ! cold & monoton\s production ( ! artisan has tak5 ! place ( ! old "w1 ^: peculi>ly attractive "* is due to its express+ ! fre% ideas & inspiration ( ! arti/4 ,! ,fr5* peasant jewel p> excell5ce is ! cross4 ,x is susp5d$ f ! neck by a velvet ribbon1 & v>ies 9 =m accord+ to localities4 ,its size is (t5 9 proportion to ! social condition ( ! we>]4 ,sometimes x atta9s consid]able dim5sions4 ,fix$ ^u ! velvet ribbon1 & draw+ x toge!r j above ! cross is a slide or c\lant1 9 ! =m ( a b[1 rosette1 or he>t1 & ( ! same /yle z ! cross itself4 ,9 _m prov9ces ( ,france1 su* z ,savoy1 gold is res]v$ exclusively = m>ri$ wom5--cu/om hav+ x t all _! jewels %\ld be ( t metal4 ,silv]1 on ! o!r h&1 is (t5 employ$ solely = girls' jewell]y1 possibly because x is consid]$ ! natural symbol ( virg9al purity1 j z 9 anci5t times x 0 consecrat$ to ! virg9 goddess1 ,diana4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,liii ,,spani%1 ,,portuguese1 ,,flemi% ,,& ,,fr5* ,,peasant ,,jewell]y1 ,,etc4 ,! mo/ int]e/+ & p]haps ! be/-kn[n ,fr5* peasant jewell]y is t ( ,norm&y & ! ,auv]gne4 ,! *ief ,norman jewel is ! cross4 ,! mo/ usual =m is t :i* occurs 9 ! di/ricts r\nd ,/4 ,l & ,ca54 ,x is ( silv]1 =m$ ( five high bosses1 f\r r\nd & "o pe>-%ap$1 ea* set ) a l>ge foil$ rock cry/al 7commonly kn[n z ,diamant1 ,caill\1 or ,pi]re d' ,al5on7 cut & facet$ 9 ! brilliant %ape1 & fur!r ornam5t$ ) sprays set ) small cry/als 9 rose =m4 ,! l[] limb ( ! cross1 briolette or pe>-%ap$1 is h+$1 s z to r5d] x less liable to get b5t or brok5 9 we> 7,pl4 ,,liii1 #d74 ,! spaces betwe5 ! limbs are sometimes completely fill$ up ) bran*$ op5-"w set ) small cry/als4 ,9 ! m nor!rly p>ts ( ,france ! cross is =m$ simply ( l>ge bosses set ) cry/als2 b r\nd ab\t ,r\5 we meet ) an abundance ( spray-"w4 ,o!r crosses ( consid]able size are =m$ ( ?9 plates ( pi]c$ gold4 ,! %ape ( ! cross is indicat$ simply by cry/al bosses1 b its =m is almo/ lo/ 9 ! outl9e ( ! jewel4 ,a fav\rite subject = repres5tation on ,r\5nais jewell]y is ! ,sa9t ,esprit or ,holy ,dove4 ,employ$ z a brea/-ornam5t or p5dant1 ! ,dove is ei!r 9 gold or silv]1 m\nt$ ) cry/als1 or col\r$ pa/es set close toge!r4 ,x is susp5d$ f an ornam5t ( op5 knot design1 ) a rosette-%ap$ slide above4 ,9 its beak is a bran*1 spray1 or bun* ( grapes1 g5]ally ( col\r$ pa/es4 ,peasant jewell]y ceas$ to be worn 9 ,norm&y ab\t #ahdj1 :5 native co/ume 0 giv5 up4 ,:ile ,norm&y relies *iefly on cry/al qu>tz = its jewell]y1 ! ,auv]gne c boa/ ( a v>iety ( gems1 su* z g>nets1 opals1 sp9els1 & zircons1 :i* are ( frequ5t occurr5ce 9 ! volcanic rock ( ,c5tral ,france4 ,! jewell]y ( ,puy is m\nt$ ) cabo*on /ones 9 l>ge high sett+s4 ,op5-"w circul> p5dants h a c5tral boss ) eight simil> sett+s ar\nd4 ,! ,sa9t ,esprit is also a popul> jewel1 b 9 ^! p>ts ! =m ( ! ,dove is n completely c>ri$ out1 ! jewel be+ compos$ m]ely ( five pe>-%ap$ bosses to indicate ! w+s1 body1 head1 & tail ( ! bird4 ,x is to be obs]v$ t ! patt]ns ( ! jewels "h allud$ to are n entirely orig9al inv5tions ( ! peasantry4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 !y are (t5 f precisely ! same models z ! jewell]y 9 use 9 ! sev5te5? & e>ly "p ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 & are v simil> 9 /yle to ! l>ge s]ies ( orig9al designs 9 ! ,national ,art ,libr>y1 ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 execut$ ab\t t "t by ! ,sant9i family ( ,flor5ce4 ,_! te*nique is also traditional4 ,?is is %[n by ! pres5ce on _m ( ! peasant jewels ( ,s\!rn ,france1 z well z ( o!r di/ricts1 ( ! pa9t$ enamel :i* came 9 ab\t #afdj1 & cont9u$ 9 use = upw>ds ( a c5tury4 ,:ile fa%ion has %ift$ scores ( times s9ce ^? days1 types & /yles ( jewell]y !n set rema9$ un*ang$ 9 ^! qu>t]s until ! great indu/rial revolution ( ! n9ete5? c5tury & ! /range & univ]sal decl9e ( ta/e t accompani$ x4 ,holl& is "o ( ! few c\ntries t h reta9$ _! peasant jewell]y4 ,n only is x display$ 9 abundance on fe/al occasions1 su* z w$d+s1 b x is worn 9 ev]yday life by ! well-to-d natives ( ! c\ntry di/ricts4 ,mu* jewell]y is employ$ 9 ,zeel&4 ,! c\ntry belles we> jutt+ out on ei!r side ( ! lace cap curi\s corkscrew-l ornam5ts ( gold1 silv]1 or gilt metal1 on :i* !y hang p5dants sometimes tipp$ ) pe>ls4 ,9 ! l& ( ,goes a squ>e gold ornam5t is p9n$ close to ! face inside ! lace halo t surr\nds ! head4 ,coral necklaces are worn1 & jet ones = m\rn+4 ,boys h e>r+s & gold & silv] buttons ne> ! ?roat4 ,! head-ornam5ts ( ,nor? ,holl& & ,utre*t consi/ ( a broad ?9 b& ( gold or silv] :i* encircles ! skull & t]m9ates at ea* end ) ! above-m5tion$ spiral ornam5ts4 ,^! b&s are cov]$ by a :ite musl9 cap or by a cap decorat$ ) col\r$ designs4 ,! wom5 ( ,geld]l& display co/ly caps ( gold beat5 out to fit ea* individual head4 ,9 ,ov]yssel ! lace cap t]m9ates ) gold ornam5ts1 & ! coral necklace has clasps ( gold filigree4 ,m5 & boys we> flat silv] buttons on ! coat & gold at ! coll>4 ,at ! wai/ is a pair ( l>ge hamm]$ discs ( silv]4 ,! natives ( ! f]tile c\ntry ( ,friesl& possess va/ /ores ( jewell]y1 g5]ally ( gold set ) diamonds4 ,v attractive peasant ornam5ts are /ill 9 use 9 ,belgium4 ,long p5d5t crosses are worn1 ) e>r+s to mat*4 ,!y are ( op5-"w floral & scroll designs1 & are m\nt$ ) small rosettes set ) rose diamonds--silv] rosettes be+ appli$ to gold ornam5ts1 gold to silv] ones4 ,! slide or c\lant above ! cross "h =ms "p ( ! p5dant1 & is n1 z 9 ,france1 atta*$ by ! ribbon worn ) x4 ,! he>t 7,sacr ,coeur7 is n worn above ! cross1 z 9 ,france1 b is us$ z a di/9ct ornam5t1 z a rule 9 silv] only4 ,^! op5-"w he>t p5dants1 commonly f\nd betwe5 ,antw]p & ,mal9es1 & r>ely else:]e1 h an op5+ 9 ! c5tre hung ) a movable sett+1 & a h+$ cr[n-%ap$ ornam5t above4 ,in/ead ( a cr[n is sometimes a fl*e1 two quiv]s & a b[--a love tok54 ,flemi% jewels1 unlike ! ,fr5*1 are set entirely ) rose diamonds4 ,! peasant jewell]y ( ,norway & ,sw$5 is ma9ly ( silv] filigree4 ,preci\s /ones d n take an important place 9 x4 ,:5 us$ !y are m (t5 ?an n false1 & are only sp>+ly appli$ = ! sake ( _! col\r4 ,p>ticul>ly *>act]i/ic ( almo/ all ! ornam5ts ( ^! p>ts are num]\s small concave or sauc]-l pieces ( metal1 highly poli%$1 or small flat r+s4 ,!y are susp5d$ by l9ks1 p>ticul>ly f ! l>ge circul> buckle :i* is ! *ief article ( jewell]y4 ,mo/ ornam5ts are circul> 9 plan4 ,besides be+ execut$ 9 filigree1 _m ( !m are emboss$ or else ca/--a /yle ( "w admirably display$ on ! huge silv]-gilt cr[ns worn by ,sc&9avian brides4 ,! peasant ornam5ts ( ,g]many pres5t _m v>ieties ( design4 ,silv] filigree ( v>i\s k9ds is employ$ = almo/ all ( !m4 ,9 ! nor!rn di/ricts amb] beads are naturally ! commone/ =m ( necklace1 :ile holl[ balls ( silv] are also worn /rung toge!r4 ,l>ge flat hair-p9s are us$1 ! exp&$ heads ( :i* are ornam5t$ ) rais$ filigree4 ,swiss & ,tyrolese peasant jewell]y is l>gely compos$ ( g>nets or g>net-col\r$ glass set 9 silv] filigree4 ,s num]\s are ! diff]5t types ( ,italian peasant jewels t x is impossible to m5tion !m all4 ,e small di/rict1 nay1 e t[n%ip1 seems to h possess$ ornam5ts t diff]$ 9 "s detail f ^? ( its neighb\rs4 ,_m ( !m display rem9isc5ces ( ! antique4 ,_! manufacture foll[s--or did till q rec5t ye>s--! old me?ods2 ! natives ( c]ta9 out-(-!-way di/ricts 9 ,umbria /ill work+ 9 v mu* ! same mann] z ! anci5t ,etruscans4 ,all ornam5ts are some:at volum9\s4 ,! head is uncov]$1 & pres5ts an ext5sive field = hair-ornam5ts4 ,! ,lomb>ds h all sorts ( hair-p9s1 (t5 a c\ple ( doz51 /uck 9 nimbus fa%ion1 & ?r\gh !m crosswise is pass$ ano!r p9 ) an oval head at ea* end4 ,e>r+s are likewise ( consid]able dim5sions1 b light 9 spite ( _! size4 ,_! surfaces are v frequ5tly set ) se$ pe>ls4 ,! f9e/ exi/+ collection ( ,italian peasant jewell]y is t 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum1 pur*as$ f ,signor ,ca/ellani 9 #ahfg4 ,( great beauty is ! jewell]y ( ! %ores ( ! ,adriatic1 & t ( ! ,greek ,isl&s1 probably made by desc5dants ( ! ,v5etian goldsmi?s1 & commonly kn[n by ! title ( ,adriatic jewell]y 7,pl4 ,,liv74 ,x is ( ?9 gold1 on :i* are %all[ cells fill$ ) opaque enamels4 ,cresc5t-%ap$ e>r+s are =m$ ( p5d5t p>ts hung ) d\ble pe>ls4 ,dat+ f ! sev5te5? c5tury are elaborate & delicate p5dants 9 ! %ape ( fully rigg$ %ips enri*$ ) pa9t$ enamel & hung ) clu/]s ( pe>ls4 ,beautiful "w ( a simil> nature 0 also produc$ 9 ,sicily4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,liv ,,adriatic ,,jewell]y ,hung>ian & ,spani% peasant ornam5ts h already be5 allud$ to4 ,9 bo? ^! c\ntries we f9d ! native filigree enamel 9 sixte5?-c5tury "w1 & pa9t$ enamel 9 t ( ! sev5te5? & eighte5? c5turies4 ,spani% jewell]y frequ5tly takes ! =m ( p5d5t reliqu>ies4 ,x is usually ( /\t silv] filigree1 be>+ traces ( ,moori% design4 ,! ,moori% /yle is also felt on ,portuguese jewell]y1 :i* displays 9 addition a c]ta9 am\nt ( :at appe>s to be ,indian influ5ce4 ,x is compos$ ( gold filigree ( v f9e workman%ip4 ,e>r+s & neck-*a9s are ( su* proportions t !y rea* respectively to ! %\ld]s & ! wai/4 ,9 addition to ! cross1 />1 he>t1 & cresc5t-%ap$ p5dants are worn4 ,a fav\rite =m is "o resembl+ an inv]t$ arti*oke4 ,op5+s are left 9 its surface1 & )9 ^! spaces & on ! edges ( ! jewel are hung little trembl+ p5dants 7,pl4 ,,liii1 #b74 ,portuguese jewell]y ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 l>gely set ) cry/al1 is admirably repres5t$ 9 ! ,museum ( ,f9e ,arts at ,lisbon4 ,,*apt] ,,xxxv ,,jewell]y ,,9 ,,pictures ,"o aspect ( ! pres5t subject1 m attractive p]haps ?an any o!r1 is t :i* conc]ns ! repres5tation ( p]sonal ornam5ts 9 pictures4 ,sc>cely z yet h pictures be5 fully appreciat$ f ! po9t ( view ( _! utility to antiqu>ies or ! light !y ?r[ ^u matt]s ( hi/orical inquiry4 ,! important "p :i* f ! fifte5? c5tury onw>ds !y h play$ 9 connection ) ! subject ( jewell]y is suffici5tly atte/$ by ! numb] ( times !y h already be5 ref]r$ to dur+ ! c\rse ( ! pres5t inquiry4 ,! tru?1 reality1 & accuracy ( ! arti/s' "w has em95tly contribut$ to ! value ( ^! pictures4 ,a sympa!tic way ( see+ ?+s & reproduc+ !m & a f9e feel+ = naturali/ic detail is *>act]i/ic ( all ! "w ( ! pa9t]s ( e>ly times1 :5 a /r5g? ( realism made its :olesome influ5ce univ]sally felt4 ,su* works1 :ile !y display ! gr&eur & magnific5ce ( =m] ages & po9t out ! fa%ions & cu/oms ( our ance/ors1 %[ 9 detail n only ! bright spl5d\r ( patt]n$ drap]ies 9 _m mat]ials1 b also ! %imm] ( goldsmi?'s "w 9 ! =m ( a v>iety ( actual ornam5ts1 n[ = ! mo/ "p entirely lo/4 ,9 ?is way !y set be=e u details unnotic$ by *ronicl]s1 & convey cle>] ideas ?an c be atta9$ by read+ ! mo/ elaborate descriptive inv5tories4 ,! special capability ( ! e>ly pa9t]s = repres5t+ articles ( jewell]y ne$ m]ely be allud$ to aga91 see+ ! close connection already %[n1 t always exi/$ betwe5 !m & ! goldsmi?s1 9 ^: work%ops mo/ ( !m pass$ _! appr5tice%ip4 ,e jewell$ ornam5t figur$ 9 _! works is1 9 fact1 design$ ) ! full k ( a goldsmi? v]s$ 9 8 craft4 ,! arti/s ( ! fifte5? & sixte5? c5turies are notori\s = ! extreme & elaborate m9ut5ess ( _! pa9t+ ( jewels4 ,9 ! portraits ( ! "t c>eful accuracy 9 depict+ ornam5ts 0 ! duty1 & evid5tly ! delight1 ( ! pa9t]4 ,9 e e>ly picture ! v>i\s details ( co/ume & jewell]y are r5d]$ ) scrupul\s c>e & ref9em5t4 ,?\gh plac$ 9 ! mo/ prom95t & decorative positions1 jewell]y 0 nev]1 9 ! be/ works1 all[$ to intrude or to occupy an exagg]at$ place 9 ! composition4 ,= h[ev] m9utely def9$ ^! accessories may be1 !y are s fus$ into ! g5]al design t !y are only app>5t if "o takes ! tr\ble to look = !m4 ,9 addition to recognis$ ma/]pieces1 !re exi/s a va/ numb] ( pictures obvi\sly n by ! fir/ ma/]s1 :i*1 ?\gh ( only mod]ate quality1 d n actually (f5d by _! inf]iority4 ,^! equally well s]ve to illu/rate details ( jewell]y & dress4 ,9 a picture ( ! fir/ ord] su* details1 ( importance 9 !mselves1 s9k into insignificance beside ! spl5did qualities ( a "w ( art3 9 less important pictures ! ornam5tal accessories are all 9 all4 ,x w\ld be ( great value to /ud5ts if all public collections t possess co/umes & ornam5ts c\ld br+ toge!r--z has be5 done ) m>k$ success 9 ! ,g]manic ,museum at ,nuremb]g--s]ies ( portraits specially *os5 to illu/rate ^! details1 su* portraits1 l ! actual articles ( dress & jewell]y1 be+1 ( c\rse1 old ones1 n mod]n copies4 ,we may /ate1 9 g5]al1 t jewels figur$ 9 portraits are to be reli$ ^u z be+ ! actual objects possess$ by ! p]sons repres5t$4 ,all ! e>ly pa9t]s display$1 z has be5 said1 a special love = jewel =ms4 ,!y n only took _! beautiful models z !y f\nd !m1 b be+ !mselves mo/ly ma/]s ( ! jewell]'s craft1 !y devot$ mu* att5tion to ! adornm5t & ! arrangem5t ( ! jewels ( _! models4 ,x may be urg$ t pa9t]s are apt to indulge _! fancy by decorat+ _! sitt]s ) jewels !y d n possess1 introduc$ to improve ! col\r or arrangem5t ( ! picture1 or introduc$ 9 accordance ) ord]s1 l ^? ( ! good ,mrs4 ,primrose1 :o expressly desir$ ! pa9t] ( h] portrait to put 9 z _m jewels z he c\ld = ! money1 & n to be too frugal ( 8 diamonds 9 h] /oma*] & hair4 ,x is unlikely1 on ! contr>y1 t any ( ! e>ly pa9t]s dep>t$ f _! usual me?ods ( tru?1 reality1 & accuracy2 or1 consid]+ ! elaborate detail ) :i* !y depict$ jewell]y1 t !y ev] specially inv5t$ x = ! portrait 9 :i* x occurs4 ,x is mu* m probable t !y work$ f :at !y saw3 = ma/]s ( pa9t+ h 9 all ages work$ f models 9 pref]5ce to c>ry+ out _! own designs4 ,an in/ance may be cit$ ( ! c>e :i* pa9t]s paid to ! ornam5ts ( _! sitt]s4 ,pres]v$ 9 ! ,ar*ivio di ,casa ,g]9i at ,flor5ce are c]ta9 unpubli%$ docum5ts#ahi ( ! ye>s #aegi to #aehd relat+ to ! arti/ ,aless&ro ,allori1 9 :i* is a li/ ( ! clo!s & jewels t _h be5 l5t him f ! w>drobe ( ! ,gr& ,du*ess1 ,bianca ,cappello1 :5 he 0 pa9t+ h] portrait4 #ahi ,k9dly communicat$ by ! late ,sir ,dom9ic ,colnaghi4 ,"o or two ( ! peculi>ities ( arti/s 9 repres5t+ jewell]y are wor?y ( be+ m5tion$4 ,x is to be obs]v$ t ! pres5ce or abs5ce ( gild+ on jewell]y (t5 s]ves to di/+ui% betwe5 ,g]man & ,flemi% pa9t+s4 ,holbe9 almo/ always employ$ gold ^u gold5 objects2 b 9 ! works ( ,mabuse1 s ri* 9 elaborate detail1 pa9t alone suffices to produce ! effect4 ,! arti/s ( ^? days possess$ a m>vell\s facility = imitat+ ! brilliance ( gold by col\r alone4 ,9 exam9+ ! jewell]y ( sixte5? & sev5te5? c5tury portraits numb]s ( :at appe> to be black /ones are frequ5tly to be se54 ,^! 7 evid5tly int5d$ to repres5t diamonds4 ,f e>ly times1 :5 ! cu/om exi/$ ( improv+1 z x 0 consid]$1 ! col\r ( all /ones by ! use ( foils1 diamonds--! old /ones ( ,golconda & ,brazil1 diff]5t 9 col\r & quality f ! diamonds ( to-day--7 usually back$ ) a black v>ni% compos$ ( lamp-black & oil ( ma/ic4 ,?is t9ctura1 or col\r+ ( ! diamond1 :i* is allud$ to by ,cell9i1 w\ld acc\nt = ! int5se & cle> blacks & :ites us$ by ! arti/s ( ! "t 9 depict+ t preci\s /one4 ,9 ! "w ( "s ( ! f9e/ pa9t]s ( ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies1 s ma/]ly is ! h&l+1 t 9 ! contemplation ( broad effects "o may fail to notice h[ mu* detail ! arti/s 7 able to comb9e ) su* bread?4 ,9 fact ! detail !y display$ is h>dly less precise ?an t ( ! e>li] pa9t]s4 ,mr4 ,davies#aij has "s int]e/+ rem>ks to make on ! diff]5t modes ( depict+ jewell]y adopt$ by fir/-class pa9t]s--by ! "o :o pa9ts x 9 detail & ! o!r :o treats x ) fre$om4 ,! fir/ pa9ts y1 t\* by t\*1 8 *a9s1 8 bracelets1 8 ti>a1 l9k by l9k1 & gem by gem1 ) precision s great t if y call$ 9 a fairly capable goldsmi?1 ( little or no intellig5ce1 he w\ld use !m z a patt]n & produce y an exact facsimile4 ,! second obta9s 8 result by summ>iz$ k1 lett+ 8 l9e lose itself & f9d itself aga91 a fla% on a l9k1 a sp>kle on a gem sugge/+ all to ! eye ) a complet5ess :i* is fully z complete z ! lit]al ^w = ^w translation ( ! o!r man4 ,call 9 a really intellig5t goldsmi? to ?is "w & he w\ld f9d x q z easy z1 or ev5 easi] ?an1 ! o!r to und]/& & reproduce f1 b x w\ld n d to make a trac+ f1 nor give z a patt]n to "o ( 8 un9tellig5t appr5tices4 #aij ,davies 7,g4 ,s471 ,frans ,hals1 p4 #hh4 ,v attractive & valuable guides to ! jewell]y ( ! e>ly p]iod are ! e>ly ,flemi%-,burgundian pa9t+s 7p4 #ij71 & ^? ( ! ,italian ma/]s ( ! fifte5? c5tury 7p4 #afg74 ,! mo/ f]tile ( sixte5?-c5tury pictures = ! pres5t purpose are ! ,g]man 7p4 #ahi71 z may be judg$ f ,h]r ,lu?m]'s ,golds*muck d] ,r5aissance1 9 :i* are reproduc$ 9 col\rs a numb] ( specim5s ( jewell]y figur$ 9 contempor>y pictures4 ,9 ! second half ( ! sixte5? c5tury & ! e>ly "p ( ! sev5te5?1 ! pa9t]s ( ! ,l[ ,c\ntries especially excell$ 9 ! del9eation ( jewel =ms4 ,among ^! arti/s are ,sir ,antonio ,m1 ,pet] ,p\rbus1 ,lucas de ,he]e1 ,zuc*]o1 ,m>c ,ghe]a]ts1 ,d4 ,myt5s1 ,van ,som]1 & ,janss5s4 ,by ^! & by num]\s foll[]s ( ,holbe91 _m pictures 7 pa9t$1 & exi/ 9 ,engl& at ! pres5t day4 ,! te*nique ( ! great ,dut* & ,flemi% pa9t]s ( ! sev5te5? c5tury1 ev5 ( su* z ,frans ,hals1 0 n incompatible1 z ,mr4 ,davies has %[n1 ) ! cle> repres5tation ( p]sonal ornam5ts4 ,! majority ( pictures ( ! e>ly "p ( ! eighte5? c5tury (f] b slight indication ( ! jewell]y ( ! "t4 ,! conv5tional /yle ( portraiture :i* !n f\nd fav\r did n all[ su* individual *>act]i/ics z p]sonal ornam5ts to obta9 a place 9 ! portrait4 ,9 ! canons = pa9t]s laid d[n by ,c4 ,a4 ,du ,fresnoy ( ,p>is1 entitl$ ,de arte graphica1 :i* rul$ arti/s ( ! fir/ half ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 x 0 p>ticul>ly enjo9$ t portraits %\ld n be ov]lad5 ) gold & jewels4 ,! portrait pa9t]s1 z ,reynolds express$ x 9 speak+ ( 8 pr$ecessors z f> back z ,lely & ,knell]1 _h a set ( po/ures 7& ornam5ts too7 :i* !y appli$ to all p]sons indiscrim9ately4 ,see+ ! reliance t may be plac$ on ! jewell]y figur$ 9 ! portraits ( e>li] times1 x is n unnatural to expect su* detail to be ( consid]able s]vice 9 art criticism4 ,9 ! id5tification ( a portrait mu* may re/ on ! id5tification ( its jewels3 = a portrait1 z ,mr4 ,&rew ,lang says1 ) ! jewels actually own$ by ! subject1 if n '! rose' 7= x may be a copy ( a lo/ orig9al7 has c]ta9ly be5 'ne> ! rose4' ,b critics seldom ?9k ( exam9+ ! num]\s extant royal & noble inv5tories & o!r docum5ts su* z wills conta9+ li/s ( jewels1 & ( comp>+ ! jewels describ$ 9 !m ) ^? display$ 9 portraits4 ,?is me?od1 neglect$ z a rule 9 criticism1 has be5 employ$ by ,mr4 ,lang ) conspicu\s success 9 8 ,portraits & jewels ( ,m>y ,/u>t1 & has s]v$ to id5tify ! rem>kable portrait ( ! ,scotti% ,que5 9 ! possession ( ,"l ,lev5 & ,melville4 ,int]e/+ z x is :5 ! jewels depict$ 9 ! portraits are id5tical ) ^? describ$ 9 _! own]s' inv5tories1 x is ev5 m s :5 ! actual jewels ?us repres5t$ h surviv$ to ! pres5t day1 su* z is ! case ) ! ,p5ruddock ,jewel %[n 9 ,lucas de ,he]e's portrait ( ,sir ,george ,p5ruddock2 ! ,drake ,jewel 9 ,zuc*]o's portrait ( ,sir ,francis ,drake2 ! ,lyte ,jewel 9 ! portrait ( ,mr4 ,?omas ,lyte2 ! e>r+ ( ,*>les ,i belong+ to ! ,duke ( ,portl&1 %[n 9 ,van ,dyck's portraits2 & ! e>r+s ( ,h5rietta ,m>ia 9 ,"l ,clif=d's possession1 %[n 9 portraits ( h] pa9t$ by ! same arti/4 ,,*apt] ,,xxxvi ,,frauds ,,& ,,=g]ies ,ow+ to ! important position t jewell]y occupies 9 ! doma9 ( virtu1 x is natural t x %\ld receive p>ticul> att5tion at ! h&s ( ! fraudul5t4 ,on ! "q ( frauds ( jewell]y we h to di/+ui% betwe5 =g]ies--articles pr(ess+ to be g5u9e anci5t works ( art--& c\nt]feits--imitations ( real objects4 ,long be=e ! =g]1 z we def9e him1 set to "w on ! field ( jewell]y1 !re exi/$ ! bus9ess ( ! imitator ( preci\s /ones & preci\s metals--"o ( c\nt]feit r ?an ( =g]y4 ,! production ( false gems dates f ! "t t preci\s /ones fir/ came to be g5]ally worn z p]sonal ornam5ts4 ,! manufacture ( imitations1 int5d$ 9 _m cases to pass z real /ones1 0 an important bran* ( ! art ( ! fam\s glasswork]s ( antiquity4 ,^! glass gems1 or pa/es z !y are t]m$1 7 l>gely set 9 r+s to meet ! ta/es ( ! poor] classes2 & are ref]r$ to by ,pl9y z ! glass gems f ! r+s ( ! multitude4 ,w\ld-be sm>t individuals1 also1 are frequ5tly satiris$ by ,m>tial = we>+ 9 _! r+s glass pa/es :i* !y attempt$ to pass (f z real /ones4 ,at ! same "t col\r$ foils 7 plac$ z ! back+ to transp>5t /ones1 & 7 employ$ to give a full hue to inf]ior-col\r$ /ones4 ,besides be+ employ$ = jewell]y1 preci\s /ones 7 made use ( by ! m$ival embroid]]s to increase ! effect ( ! col\r$ mat]ials & gold ?read 9 ! decoration ( _! robes4 ,b :5 we be> 9 m9d ! accurate descriptions giv5 by ,!ophilus 9 8 ,div]s>um ,artium ,s*$ula ( ! process ( mak+ false gems1 x is only reasonable to assume t _m ( ! s-call$ jewels 7 n 9 fact real gems1 b imitations4 ,c]ta9 x is t 9 m$ival times ! c\nt]feit+ ( preci\s /ones 0 v l>gely c>ri$ on1 :ile _m acc\nts are pres]v$ 9 e>ly records ( f9es & o!r puni%m5ts inflict$ on di%one/ trad]s 9 gems :o attempt$ to dispose ( spuri\s /ones1 usually set 9 f+] r+s4 ,9 ,engl& & ,france dur+ ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies x 0 cu/om>y = ! jewell]s' guild ( ea* t[n to h a rule prohibit+ its memb]s f sett+ pa/e gems 9 real gold or real gems 9 plat$ metal2 f m\nt+ ,scotti% pe>ls ) ^? ( ! ,ea/2 or m+l+ col\r$ glass1 or false1 ) preci\s /ones4 ,z 9 e>li] p]iods1 a cry/al or a col\rless pa/e 0 made to imitate a col\r$ /one by back+ x ) a foil4 ,at ,s\? ,k5s+ton an example exi/s1 set 9 a gold r+ ( sixte5?-c5tury ,g]man "w 7,no4 #abjf-'jc71 ( a :ite cry/al1 :i* is cut en cabo*on & back$ ) a r$ foil1 & be>s a /rik+ resemblance to a c>buncle 7,pl4 ,,xxiii1 #ag74 ,_m books on preci\s /ones1 bo? old & new1 give receipts = ! manufacture ( imitation gems1 made ( fl9t glass & col\r$ ) oxides accord+ to ! orig9als !y are int5d$ to c\nt]feit4 ,ap>t f ^! are false gems produc$ ) really fraudul5t int5t4 ,s9ce imitation /ones _c resi/ ! file1 x is ! practice1 besides back+ a cry/al ) col\r$ foil1 to back a ?9 lay] ( g5u9e /one--int5d$ to resi/ ! te/ :5 exam9$ = h>dness--) a lay] ( glass col\r$ z requir$4 ,ano!r process ( fabrication consi/s ( plac+ a lay] ( glass betwe5 two lay]s ( true /one4 ,! place ( ! jo9 9 ! triplet is hidd5 by ! collet ( ! sett+1 & ! deceit c only be detect$ by unsett+ ! /one & soak+ x 9 *lor(orm4 ,ano!r means employ$ = *ang+ & improv+ ! col\rs ( /ones is by heat1 = ! col\r ( ne>ly all gems is affect$ by heat+4 ,n pa/es only b cle> cry/als h long be5 palm$ (f on ! unw>y = diamonds4 ,p]haps ! be/-kn[n ( ^! 7 cry/als ( qu>tz f\nd 9 ! ,clifton lime/one ne> ,bri/ol1 :i* w5t by ! "n ( ,bri/ol diamonds4 ,!y are allud$ to z worn 9 ! e>s by ! fop describ$ 9 ,l5ton's ,"y ,gallant's ,:irligigg 7#afbi74 ,qu>tz cry/als f\nd 9 ! t9 m9es ( ,cornwall1 & simil> /ones f ! neighb\rhood ( ,h>rogate1 /ill kn[n respectively z ,corni% & ,h>rogate diamonds1 7 also mu* employ$ = jewell]y f ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,transp>5t /ones f v>i\s p>ts ( ! ,cont95t are giv5 ! names ( ! localities 9 :i* !y are f\nd4 ,9 ,france1 rock cry/al1 cut 9 rose or brilliant =m1 w5t g5]ally by ! "n ( ,pi]re d' ,al5on or ,caill\ du ,rh94 ,( ! transp>5t glass pa/e t]m$ ,/ras or ,/rass we h already spok54 ,?\gh an imitation1 ! pa/e ( eighte5?-c5tury jewell]y does n necess>ily belong to ! category ( frauds & c\nt]feits1 s9ce x possesses a c]ta9 orig9ality ( its own1 & does n appe> to h be5 g5]ally worn ) int5t to deceive4 ,false or mock pe>ls on ! o!r h& seem 9 "s way to be r m associat$ ) deception1 ?\gh !y also c be made to s]ve = decorative purposes entirely ap>t f any su* int5t4 ,to reproduce ! lu/re or ori5t *>act]i/ic ( ori5tal pe>ls1 use is made 9 ! fabrication ( imitations ( a pe>ly ess5ce kn[n z ess5ce d'ori5t1 obta9$ f ! silv]y scales on ! und]side ( a fi% call$ ! bleak4 ,beads ( bl[n glass slightly opalesc5t & treat$ ) acid to produce an iridesc5t surface are coat$ int]nally ) a film ( ! ess5ce1 & wax is !n introduc$ to give ! bead ! desir$ weight4 ,o!r mock pe>ls are made up ( a vitre\s composition =m$ l>gely ( ! pe>l ess5ce4 ,_! surface :5 burni%$ pres5ts a f9e lu/re4 ,^! are g5]ally t]m$ ,v5etian pe>ls4 ,roman pe>ls are =m$ ( ext]nal coat+s produc$ by frequ5t dipp+s into a solution made ( ! pe>lie/ p>ts ( ! oy/]4 ,f e>lie/ times frauds h be5 committ$ 9 connection ) ! preci\s metals4 ,! goldsmi?s & jewell]s ( ! ,middle ,ages 7 =bidd5 to "w 9 base metal1 to use false /ones ( glass1 or to put col\r$ foil b5ea? real /ones4 ,!y 7 fur!r expressly =bidd5 to manufacture p]sonal ornam5ts = secul> use ( gilt or silv]$ copp] or brass4 ,docum5ts 9 ! ar*ives ( ! ,city ( ,london conta9 _m ref]5ces to ! p]petration ( fraud 9 pass+ (f z real1 objects ( brass or latt5 t _h be5 silv]$ or gild$4 ,9 #acfi a conviction & puni%m5t by ! pillory took place = sell+ to div]s p]sons r+s & f]mails ( latt51 ( col\r$ gold & silv]1 z be+ made ( real gold & silv]1 9 deceit1 & to ! griev\s loss1 ( ! common p2 & 9 #acgf a workman 0 imprison$ = hav+ silv]$ #bdj buttons ( latt51 & ?irty-f\r latt5 rims = gipcires1 & hav+ malici\sly purpos$ & imag9$ to sell ! same = pure silv]1 9 deceit ( ! p4 ,f actual objects t h surviv$ x w\ld seem t ! m he9\s (f5ce 0 n infrequ5tly committ$ ( plat+ ) silv] ! bas] metals ( t91 lead1 & pewt]4 ,! /atutes ( ! goldsmi?s orda9$ t no jewell] %\ld sell any article ( silv] unless x 0 z f9e z /]l+1 nor sett x to sell be=e x be t\*$ ) ! leop>d's head & mak]'s m>k4 ,b exceptions 7 always made 9 fav\r ( small articles ( jewell]y :i* c\ld n reasonably be> ! same t\*4 ,su* mat]ials z p9*beck & ,similor & ! plat$ objects ( mod]n times h>dly fall )9 ! pres5t category4 ,actual =g]ies ( p]sonal ornam5ts c sc>cely be said to h be5 committ$ until comp>atively rec5t ye>s--n1 9 fact1 until ! dem& = specim5s ( old jewell]y on ! "p ( ! antiqu>y & connoisseur r5d]$ _! reproduction pr(itable4#aia #aia ,munro 7,r471 ,ar*ology & false antiquities4 ,eudel 7,p471 ,le ,truquage1 #ahhg4 ,trucs et ,truqueurs1 #aijg4 ,ow+ to ! high prices !y comm& f collectors1 or to v>i\s facilities af=d$ = _! production & disposal1 ?ree classes ( objects--,greek & ,etruscan jewell]y1 m$ival r+s1 & enamell$ p5dants ( ! ,r5aissance--(f] ! /ronge/ temptation to ! =g]2 & he on 8 "p displays su* an am\nt ( skill & +5uity1 t ! fabrication ( spuri\s antiquities ( ?is k9d may be said to h am\nt$ almo/ to a f9e art4 ,! mu* s\ght aft] gold jewell]y ( ,greece & ,etruria has receiv$ m att5tion ?an any o!r1 p>tly on acc\nt ( ! fact t gold is subject to b slight oxidisation2 = ! pat9a ( age is lack+ ev5 on anci5t examples4 ,sett+ aside ! beautiful imitations by su* arti/s z ,ca/ellani1 fa!r & sons1 & lat] by ,melillo & ,giuliano--:i* clev] reproductions are kn[n to h be5 sometimes foi/$ ^u collectors by unscrupul\s deal]s--a great deal ( really false "w made ) ! int5t ( pass+ = old has be5 produc$ 9 ,italy--*iefly at ,rome1 ,naples1 & ,flor5ce4 ,on ! subject ( su* pseudo-antiques ,c\nt ,tyszkiewicz has sev]al good /ories to tell 9 8 ,memories ( an ,old ,collector4 ,( all objects ( ?is k9d1 t :i* has claim$ ! l>ge/ %>e ( public att5tion is ! notori\s ,ti>a ( ,saitaph>nes1 :i* deceiv$ sev]al well-kn[n au?orities1 & repos$ = sev]al ye>s z a g5u9e antique 9 ! ,l\vre1 until ! revelation 9 #aijc ( ! p]son ( its +5i\s au?or--a ,russian ,jew ( ,odessa4 ,! disclosure ( ?is rem>kable fraud 0 ! climax ( a long s]ies ( =g]ies ( anci5t ,greek jewell]y f ,s\!rn ,russia1 :i*1 purport+ to be recov]$ f ! ,greek tombs ( ,olbia & ,k]t*1 long r5[n$ = _! weal? 9 su* objects1 7 pur*as$ by m ?an "o well-kn[n collector4 ,s ke5ly has ! =g] pursu$ 8 evil c\rse 9 ?is p>ticul> doma91 t1 ap>t f t pres]v$ 9 museums & 9 ! cab9ets ( collectors ^: p]sonal judgm5t is s\nd on su* matt]s1 ,m4 ,eudel goes s f> z to say t ! great] portion ( ! antique jewell]y extant is ( rec5t fabrication4 ,m$ival ornam5ts ( all sorts are =g$ at ! pres5t day ^u ! ,cont95t to a consid]able ext5t1 ?\gh less ?an are ^? ( lat] times4 ,"o important c5tre ( _! production is ,p>is4 ,ano!r1 9 e>li] ye>s 9 p>ticul>1 0 ,frank=t1 :]e visitors to wat]+-places on ! ,rh9e h long be5 ! victims ( fraudul5t v5dors4 ,su* m$ival objects1 h[ev] well support$ by a deal]'s w>ranty ( place & "t ( discov]y1 require1 says ,mr4 ,k+1 to be exam9$ by ! amateur ) a v suspici\s & critical eye4 ,among o!r p]sonal ornam5ts ( ?is p]iod t h receiv$ att5tion at ! h&s ( ! =g] are ! lead5 badges kn[n z pilgrims' signs4 ,_m +5i\s =g]ies ( ! k9d 7 produc$ ab\t =ty-five ye>s ago1 & purport$ to be br\ght to light by workm5 engag$ 9 excavations ne> ! ,?ames 9 ! ,city ( ,london4 ,^! 7 9 l>ge "p ! "w ( two illit]ate mud-rak]s on ! banks ( ! riv]2 :ile articles ( l k9d 7 %ortly aft]w>ds made by two m5 kn[n z ,billy & ,*>ley1 :o manufactur$ a numb] ( curi\s p5d5t m$als ( lead & cock-metal4#aib ,! discov]y 9 ! ,se9e1 ab\t ! same "t1 ( _m g5u9e pilgrims' signs l$ to ! circulation also 9 ,france ( a quantity ( spuri\s objects ( a simil> nature4 #aib ,ar*ological ,j\rnal1 ,,xxi1 p4 #afg4 ,a collection ( pseudo-antiques ( ! k9d made at ! ateli]s ( ,messrs4 ,billy & ,*>ley1 ,rosem>y ,lane1 ,t[] ,hill1 is %[n 9 ! ,cum+ ,museum1 ,walwor? ,road1 ,london4 ,r5aissance p5dants1 ! prizes ( ! connoisseur1 are fav\rite subjects = reproduction at ! pres5t day1 =1 unlike ! e>li] objects1 !y are n ill-adapt$ = p]sonal use4 ,jewell]y 9 ! ,c9quec5to /yle has = sev]al ye>s pa/ be5 made 9 l>ge quantities at ,vi5na4 ,^! jewels are g5]ally n 9 gold1 l ! works !y pr(ess to imitate1 b 9 silv]-gilt1 & z a result _! enamel is nev] ( f9e quality1 _! g5]al appe>ance is n up to ! /&>d ( ! old1 & _! workman%ip is mo/ly v me*anical4 ,ap>t f ^! & simil> works1 made also 9 ,france & g5]ally sold 9 jewell]s' %ops z mod]n productions1 !re are o!rs :i* pret5d to age4 ,?\gh "o seldom meets ) examples t approa* ! be/ productions ( ! ,r5aissance1 objects ( ! k9d are occasionally imitat$ ) su* pr(ici5cy1 t 9 collect+ specim5s ( e>ly jewell]y 9 no in/ances is x necess>y to ex]cise great] caution ?an 9 ^? ( ! ,c9quec5to4 ,f9e jewell]y ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 n[ almo/ equally s\ght aft]--wat*es1 *atela9es1 r+s1 & broo*es--has be5 multipli$ 9 quantities dur+ rec5t ye>s4 ,z ! broo*es ( ?is date are v (t5 m\nt$ ) rose-cut diamonds1 c>e has be5 tak5 to employ /ones cut 9 ?is mann]4 ,_! sett+s g5]ally di/+ui% ! copies4 ,aga91 z ,m4 ,eudel po9ts out1 :5 f9e old diamond-"w has be5 s5t to be reset1 ! jewell] pres]ves ! old m\nts1 sets !m ) mod]n /ones or pa/es1 & sells !m z g5u9e old "w4 ,= ! purpose ( fur!r+ ! deception complete p>ures purport+ to be sev5te5? or eighte5? c5tury "w are (f]$ = sale 9 g5u9e old lea!r or %agre5 cases4 ,a set ( jewels may ev5 be made = ! special purpose ( fitt+ su* a case1 or an entirely new case con/ruct$1 & treat$ 9 su* a mann] z to give x an appe>ance ( age4 ,,*apt] ,,xxxvii ,,mem5to ,,mori ,i w keep x1 ,z !y keep dea?s' heads 9 r+s1 ,to cry mem5to to me4 ,! /udy ( ! v>i\s =ms ( p]sonal ornam5t by means ( :i* ! memory ( ! dead or ( dea? itself has be5 pres]v$ by ! liv+ is "o :i* (f]s a wide field = inve/igation4 ,! ,egyptians en=c$ ! precept ,mem5to ,mori by introduc+ at _! banquets a small c(f9 conta9+ ! image ( a corpse :i*1 accord+ to ,h]odotus1 0 %[n to ea* gue/4 ,9 classical times skeletons 7 r>ely repres5t$1 ?\gh "o is sculptur$ on a tomb at ,pompeii4 ,! w>n+ ,mem5to ,mori manife/$ itself 9 div]s fa%ions 9 ! ,middle ,ages1 ! mo/ conspicu\s be+ ! fam\s ,dance ( ,dea?1 :i* made its db 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury1 & 0 figur$ by ,holbe9 9 ! sixte5?4 ,te/imony ( ! desire ( all to keep ! w>n+ con/antly be=e ! m9d is borne by p]sonal ornam5ts ( v>i\s k9ds display+ emblems ( mortality4 ,9 ord] to arrive at ! mean+ ( ^! crude emblems s (t5 appli$ to objects ( jewell]y1 reg>d %\ld be paid to ! feel+s ( ! times t gave !m bir?4 ,dur+ ! latt] p]iod ( ! ,middle ,ages ! grim & ascetic contemplation ( dea? caus$ ! arti/s ( t p]iod to repres5t x z ! devil1 ! fa!r ( s91 horn$ & clov5-ho($1 c>ry+ (f ! s9ful s\ls & =c+ !m into ! m\? ( hell4 ,b :5 dur+ ! fifte5? c5tury pr9t+ excit$ m5's imag9ations1 :5 ! fir/ discov]y ( ! anci5t classics r\s$ _! emulation & /imulat$ _! unre/1 :5 ! ,r5aissance 9 art increas$ _! eag]ness to express _! ?\ghts & multipli$ _! me?od ( expression1#aic & _! consci5ce 0 turn$ to ! latt] end & ! unse5 _w1 !n at l5g? did dea? appe>1 no long] z ! fa!r ( s91 b alt]$ into a famili> & human p]sonification4 #aic ,cook 7,t4 ,a471 ,! hi/ory ( ,r\51 p4 #bic4 ,side by side ) ! /range vig\r & extraord9>y joy 9 life t m>k$ ! p]iod1 !re exi/$ a great contempt = ! value ( life & a gross famili>ity ) dea?4 ,x 0 ,dea? himself1 accord+ to ! imag9ation ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 :o1 always at h&1 clut*$ m5 ( e age & condition by ! sleeve & hurri$ !m all unwill+ly away4 ,! emblems ( dea? 7 always pres5t$ 9 close t\* ) ! liv+4 ,! =ms !y took--! skeleton1 or simply ! skull1 or ,dea?'s head1 ) cross-bones--7 r5d]$ 9 ! sixte5? c5tury by bo? pa9t] & sculptor2 b x 0 res]v$ = ! goldsmi?--! sculptor & pa9t] 9 "o--to repres5t !m on jewell]y ?r\gh ! m$ium ( ! preci\s metals enri*$ ) gems & col\r$ enamels4 ,!y figur$ on e k9d ( ornam5t4 ,broo*es ) enamell$ skulls 7 fa/5$ z enseignes ^u ! hat2 gold5 jewels l fun]eal objects 9 %ape ( c(f9s hold+ enamell$ skeletons hung f ! neck2 ros>y beads1 pom&]s & wat*es 9 ! =m ( human skulls 7 atta*$ to ! wai/2 & r+s be>+ ,dea?'s heads & o!r emblems 7 worn ^u ! f+]s4 ,a great impetus 0 giv5 to ! use ( su* articles ( adornm5t by ,diana ( ,poiti]s :5 %e became mi/ress ( ,h5ry ,,ii ( ,france4 ,%e 0 !n a wid[ 9 m\rn+2 & ! complaisant ,c\rt n only adopt$ h] black & :ite z ! fa%ionable col\r1 b cov]$ _! p]sonal ornam5ts ) emblems ( dea?4 ,jewels ( ?is description1 x is cle>1 7 n necess>ily c>ri$ 9 remembrance ( any special individual4 ,) _! leg5d ,mem5to ,mori !y 7 simply rem9d]s ( ,dea? 9 ! ab/ract4 ,z su* !y *>act]is$ exactly ! temp] ( ! "t1 & 7 q commonly worn by ! upp] & middle classes1 especially by ^? :o affect$ a respectable gravity4 ,at ! "t ( :i* we n[ speak ! p]sonal badge or devise1 an obscure expression ( "s p>ticul> conceit ( its we>]1 0 at ! height ( fa%ion4 ,9 its elaboration ! v>i\s emblems ( dea? 7 l>gely put "u contribution1 _! *oice = ! purpose be+ ! outcome ( ! special disposition ( ^? :o adopt$ !m4 ,p]haps ! mo/ notable in/ance ( ! repres5tation ( a badge ( ?is k9d is 9 ,holbe9's fam\s ,ambassadors1 9 ! ,national ,gall]y4 ,"h ,jean de ,d9teville1 :o /&s on ! left ( ! picture1 we>s a circul> jewel =m$ ( a :ite enamell$ skull 9 a gold m\nt1 p9n$ z an enseigne to ! l[] rim ( 8 small black bonnet4 ,among/ sundry ornam5ts be>+ mortu>y devices1 !re is a good example at ,s\? ,k5s+ton--a ,mem5to ,mori *>m ( enamell$ gold 9 ! =m ( a c(f9 conta9+ a m9utely articulat$ skeleton4 ,x is ,engli% "w ( ! ,elizabe?an p]iod1 & 0 f\nd at ,tor ,abbey1 ,devon%ire 7,pl4 ,,xliv1 #af74 ,no article ( decoration has be5 m ext5sively us$ z a ,mem5to ,mori or = memorial purposes ?an ! f+] r+4 ,! association ( ! r+ is l>gely ) affairs ( ! he>t1 & lov]s are unit$ ) x4 ,& s9ce ! =m itself is emblematic ( et]nity1 s by ?is same tok5 ( affection has ! memory ( dep>t$ fri5ds be5 kept gre54 ,! sepul*ral emblems ref]r$ to 7 n made use ( = m$ival ornam5ts4 ,b 9 ! sixte5? c5tury !y 7 v frequ5t1 especially on r+s4 ,"o ( ! mo/ rem>kable specim5s ( ! wond]ful ma/]y ov] te*nical difficulties :i* /amps ! goldsmi?'s "w ( ?is "t is a ,mem5to ,mori r+ ( ,g]man "w 9 ! ,waddesdon ,beque/4 ,its bezel or top is 9 ! =m ( a book1 decorat$ at ea* corn] ) a diamond1 em]ald1 sapphire1 & ruby1 ) snakes & toads betwe5 !m4 ,9 ! c5tre is a dea?'s head4 ,! lid on op5+ discloses a recumb5t figure ) skull & h\r-glass4 ,on ! %\ld]s ( ! r+1 support+ ! bezel1 are figures ( ,adam & ,eve repres5t+ ,! ,fall & ,expulsion f ,ed54 ,all ! figures are enamell$ 9 high relief1 & ?\gh m]ely a fraction ( an in* 9 size1 are execut$ ) extraord9>y fidelity4 ,a r+ describ$ z hav+ belong$ to ,m>y ,/u>t is 9 ! possession ( ! ,e>l ( ,il*e/]4 ,its bezel1 compos$ ( a l>ge ruby cut 9 ! =m ( a dea?'s head & set ) diamond eyes1 is support$ und]nea? by cross-bones 9 enamel4 ,woeiriot's beautiful collection ( designs = r+s1 ( ! ye> #aefa1 conta9s a r+ ( ?is k9d surm\nt$ ) a skull & cross-bones2 & ,gilles ,lg>'s ,recueil ( a c5tury lat] has an engrav+ ( simil> patt]n 7,pl4 ,,xl74 ,engli% r+s ( ! sixte5? c5tury h a dea?'s head c>v$ 9 intaglio on c>nelian1 or sunk 9 ! metal ( ! r+ & sometimes fill$ ) enamel4 ,ar\nd is ! motto ,mem5to ,mori1 & simil> expressions 9 ,lat9 or 9 ,engli% 7,pl4 ,,xxxvi1 #ab74 ,a c]ta9 ,agnes ,hals ^: w is dat$ #aeed bequea!d to h] niece my rynge ( gold ) ! wep+e eie1 & to h] son my rynge ) ! dead manes head4 ,f ! comm5cem5t ( ! sev5te5? c5tury ,mem5to ,mori r+s beg9 to be worn also z memorials ( ! dep>t$1 & beque/s ( money 7 frequ5tly made = _! pur*ase4 ,! decoration ( _m ( ! r+s ( ?is p]iod is v curi\s4 ,on "s ! dea?'s head 9 its natural %ape is beautifully =m$ 9 enamel1 has small diamond eyes1 & is support$ on ea* side by skeletons b5t along ! hoop ( ! r+4 ,! bezel ( o!rs is ( cry/al 9 ! %ape ( a c(f91 ! lid ( :i* on be+ remov$ discloses a skeleton4 ,wid[s on ! dea? ( _! husb&s sometimes conv]t$ _! w$d+ r+s into memorial r+s4 ,?is 0 done by engrav+ outside an elongat$ skeleton1 ! bones ( :i* 7 br\ght into prom95ce by a backgr\nd ( black enamel4 ,inside ! memorial r+s ( ! "t 0 (t5 a motto or posy1 appropriate = ! purpose1 sometimes rhym+3-- ,prep>$ be ,to foll[ me2 or ,i re/less live1 yet hope to see ,t day ( ,*ri/1 & !n see !e4 ,r+s ( ?is k9d1 commonly kn[n z m\rn+ r+s1 7 frequ5tly giv51 toge!r ) gloves & hat-b&s1 to ^? :o att5d$ at fun]als4 ,!y 7 inscrib$1 9 addition to a posy1 ) ! initials ( ! deceas$ & ! date4 ,evelyn at 8 son's fun]al 9 #afeh di/ribut$ a numb] ( r+s ) ! motto ,dom9us ab/ulit4 ,at ,pepys' fun]al upw>ds ( a hundr$ & ?irty r+s 7 giv5 to fri5ds & relatives4 ,m5tion mu/ be made1 among/ o!r memorial jewell]y1 ( ! v>i\s objects worn 9 memory ( ,*>les ,i4 ,mo/ ( ^! are f+] r+s conta9+ a portrait ( ! ill-fat$ mon>*1 :i* 7 made & worn by ,royali/s aft] 8 execution4 ,"s are s contriv$ t ! portrait c only be discov]$ by op5+ a lid =m$ ( a table diamond4 ,!y 7 d\btless us$ by ^? = :om devotion ( ! k9d 0 dang]\s4 ,o!r jewels worn 9 memory ( ! ,royal ,m>tyr 7 he>t-%ap$ lockets1 inscrib$ & decorat$ 9 a suitably fun]eal mann] ) skulls1 cross-bones1 & l emblems4 ,an important gr\p ( ornam5ts1 dat+ f ! "t ( ,*>les ,,ii to t ( ,que5 ,anne1 are ^? 9 ! =m ( small memorial broo*es1 lockets1 bracelet clasps1 buttons1 & slides ) loops at ! back = atta*m5t to a velvet b&4 ,!y are ( consid]able int]e/ 9 t !y repres5t almo/ ! only surviv+ examples ( ,engli% jewell]y ( ! "t4 ,! ,franks ,beque/ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum conta9s sev]al specim5s4 ,!y usually h lett]s 9 a f9e filigree ( gold entw9$ 9 a monogram1 laid on a gr\nd ( crimson silk1 & cov]$ ) a ?ick cry/al set 9 gold4 ,! gold filigree1 :i* is ( extraord9>y delicacy1 is (t5 laid on braids ( hair arrang$ 9 v>i\s designs1 & accompani$ by ! skull & cross-bones4 ,! cry/al cov]+ is sometimes cut 9 table =m1 b is m (t5 rose-cut4 ,! locket surr\nd$ ) pe>ls %[n on ,plate ,,xliv has on its surface no less ?an a hundr$ facets4 ,memorial r+s ( ! same p]iod h bezels ) simil> designs b5ea? a rose diamond or facet$ cry/al4 ,_! hoops are mo/ly enamell$ black on ! %\ld]s4 ,9 ! second qu>t] ( ! eighte5? c5tury ! mortu>y emblems ( skull & cross-bones 9 g5]al disappe>4 ,! hoop ( ! r+ is %ap$ 9 ! =m ( a scroll or ribbon1 & set ) a small diamond1 a col\r$ /one1 or usually a :ite cry/al4 ,ar\nd ! hoop is inscrib$ 9 enamel ! "n & age ( ! deceas$1 & date ( dea?4 ,black enamel 0 us$ = ^? :o _h be5 m>ri$2 :ile :ite 0 employ$ = ! unm>ri$--j z x 0 ! practice at ! fun]al ( an unm>ri$ man or woman = ! m\rn]s & att5dants to be clo!d 9 :ite4 ,m\rn+ jewell]y 0 extremely popul> 9 ,engl& t[>ds ! end ( ! eighte5? & 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! n9ete5? c5tury4 ,! v>iety ( design 9 objects ( ! k9d !n 9 use1 & ! +5uity display$ 9 _! production1 may well be judg$ f a collection numb]+ upw>ds ( "o hundr$ & fifty specim5s 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4 ,"s mem5toes ( ! deceas$ are simply m9iature portraits1 z well z cameos & silh\ettes1 ! m9iature sometimes tak+ ! =m ( a s+le eye set r\nd ) pe>ls or diamonds4 ,b 9 mo/ cases x appe>s to h be5 ! cu/om to we> 9 lockets1 broo*es1 & r+s microscopic devices--works ( inf9ite pati5ce & skill--wr\ght 9 hair1 ) initials & o!r designs cunn+ly work$ 9 se$ pe>ls4 ,!re 7 also1 sometimes1 pa9t+s 9 grisaille 7,pl4 ,,xlvii1 #b1 #c74 ,^! (t5 repres5t$ a lady 9 m\rn+ g>b weep+ ov] a fun]al urn1 9 ! /yle ( ! ornam5t worn by ,mr4 ,wemmick1 ! attorney's cl]k 9 ,great ,expectations1 ( :om ,dick5s gives ! foll[+ inimitable description3 ,i judg$ him to be a ba*elor f ! fray$ condition ( 8 l951 & he appe>$ to h su/a9$ a good _m b]eavem5ts2 = he wore at lea/ f\r m\rn+ r+s1 besides a broo* repres5t+ a lady & a weep+ will[ at a tomb ) an urn on x4 ,i notic$1 too1 t sev]al r+s & seals hung at 8 wat* *a91 z if he 7 q lad5 ) remembrances ( dep>t$ fri5ds4 ,fur!r on ,mr4 ,wemmick himself describes 8 p]sonal jewell]y1 & concludes by rem>k+3 ,i always take 'em4 ,!y're curiosities4 ,& !y're prop]ty4 ,!y may n be wor? mu*1 b1 aft] all1 !y're prop]ty & portable4444 ,my guid+-/> always is1 ,get hold ( portable prop]ty4 ,! pa9t$ broo*es back$ ) hair & set r\nd ) pe>ls =m1 z a matt] ( fact1 v pretty jewels1 9 spite ( ! sombr5ess ( _! subject & ! trivial s5tim5tality ( _! mottoes1 :i* run 9 ?is ve93 ,^: hair ,i we>--,i lov$ mo/ de>4 ,m\rn+ jewell]y 0 usually set ) pe>ls1 g>nets1 or m (t5 jet4 ,! la/1 until a %ort :ile ago1 0 9 univ]sal fav\r1 & 0 fa%ion$ into all sorts ( ornam5ts4 ,x =tunately n[ meets ) b little dem&4 ,! same applies to hair jewell]y1 ( human hair wov5 9 _m intricate plait+s into broo*es1 r+s1 bracelets1 & *a9s4 ,! broo*es ( ab\t ! =ties h a broad bord] inscrib$ ) ! ^w ,memory1 etc41 9 ,go?ic lett]s on black enamel1 & 9 ! c5tre a panel ( plait$ hair4 ,! cu/om ( we>+ ornam5ts compos$ ( su* sombre & unpleas+ mat]ial has n[ to all int5ts & purposes ceas$1 ?\gh x is c>ri$ on to a c]ta9 ext5t 9 ,france1 :]e ouvrages en *eveux 9 ! =m ( bracelets & lockets are /ill worn z prcieux s\v5irs de famille4 ,aft] ! middle ( ! n9ete5? c5tury ! use ( m\rn+ r+s & o!r memorial jewell]y began to die out4 ,! goddess ,fa%ion1 :o ?r\gh\t all ages has wag$ w> on ! productions ( ! goldsmi?1 has laid a heavi] h& on ^! ?an on any o!r =ms ( p]sonal ornam5t--a circum/ance :i* acc\nts = ! survival at ! pres5t day ( a comp>atively small proportion ( ! enorm\s quantity ( objects ( ?is description t mu/ =m]ly h be5 produc$4 ,mo/ families f "t to "t h consign$ to ! melt+-pot accumulations ( ^! memorials ( _! pr$ecessors2 & ^? :o h be5 long 9 ! jewell]'s bus9ess confess to ! hundr$s ( su* relics t !y h brok5 up4 ,x is to be hop$ t ! pres5t-day revival may lead to ! pres]vation ( :at rema9 ( ^! qua9t mem5toes ( our frail mortality4 ,,bibliography ,ak]man 7,j4 ,y474 ,rema9s ( pagan ,saxondom4 ,london1 #ahee4 ,all5 7,j4 ,romilly74 ,celtic art4 ,london1 #aijd4 ,a%bee 7,c4 ,r474 ,see ,cell9i 7,b474 ,treatises4 ,translat$ by ,c4 ,r4 ,a4 ,av5eau de la ,grancire4 ,les p>ures prhi/oriques et antiques en gra9s d'enfilage4 ,p>is1 #ahig4 ,babelon 7,e4 ,c4 ,f474 ,catalogue des cames antiques et mod]nes de la ,biblio?que ,nationale4 ,p>is1 #ahig4 ,bap/ 7,g474 ,hi/oire des joyaux de la c\ronne de ,france4 ,p>is1 #ahhi4 ,b>bet de ,j\y 7,h474 ,gemmes et joyaux de la c\ronne impriale de la ,muse du ,l\vre4 ,p>is1 #ahhb4 ,b>bot 7,c474 ,guide pratique du joailli]4 ,new edition4 ,p>is 7#ahhc74 ,b>r]a 7,mme de74 ,gems & jewels4 ,london1 #ahfj4 ,b>?ol9us 7,c4 & ,t47 ,c4 ,b>?ol9i ,?om4 f4 de inauribus vet]um syntagma4 ,am/]dam1 #afgf4 ,b>? 7,h474 ,das ,ges*meide4 ,s*muck- und ,edel/e9skunde4 #b vols4 ,b]l91 #aijc-d4 ,de ,baye 7,j474 ,! indu/rial arts ( ! ,anglo-,saxons4 ,london1 #ahic4 ,b]l93 ,kun/gew]be ,museum4 ,katalog d] ,ornam5t/i*-,sammlung4 ,b]l91 #ahid4 ,bi]dimpfl 7,k4 ,a474 ,die ,funde aus d] ,fr/5gruft zu ,lau+5 im bay]is*5 ,nationalmuseum4 ,muni*1 #ahha4 ,bi%op 7,e474 ,see ,de ,mly 7,f474 ,blanc 7,c474 ,l'art dans la p>ure et dans le vtem5t4 ,p>is1 #ahgd4 ,engli% edition4 ,london1 #ahgg4 ,blo*e 7,a474 ,la v5te des diamants de la c\ronne4 ,p>is1 #ahhh4 ,bock 7,f474 ,kle9odi5 des heil4 rm4 rei*es deuts*] ,nation4 ,vi5na1 #ahfd4 ,bonnaff 7,e474 ,la collection ,spitz]4 ,vol4 ,,iii4 ,la bij\t]ie4 ,p>is1 #ahia4 ,boselli 7,e474 ,gioiell]ia1 orefic]ia1 oro1 arg5to e plat9o4 ,milan1 #ahhi4 ,bosell9i 7,c4 ,l474 ,scelta di anti*i anelli raccolti da ,c4 ,l4 ,b4 ,p>ma1 #ahhf4 ,brew] 7,j4 ,s47 ,lett]s & pap]s ( ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,public ,record ,(fice s]ies4 7,vols4 ,i-,,iv1 edit$ by ,j4 ,s4 ,b47 ,london1 #ahfb4 ,briti% ,museum4 ,guide to ! ?ird & f\r? ,egyptian rooms4 ,london1 #aijd4 ,bu*] 7,b474 ,ges*i*te d] te*nis*5 ,kn/e4 ,vol ,,ii4 ,ilg 7,a474 ,golds*mi$ekun/4 ,b]l91 #ahhf4 ,buda-,pe/h3 ,exhibition1 #ahhd4 ,*efs-d'oeuvre d'orfvr]ie4 ,by ,e4 ,mol9i]1 etc4 #b vols4 ,p>is1 #ahhd-h4 ,burl+ton ,f9e ,arts ,club4 ,european enamels4 ,catalogue4 ,london1 #ahig4 ,burnham 7,s4 ,m474 ,preci\s /ones4 ,bo/on 7,u4,s4,a471 #ahhf4 ,ca/ellani 7,a474 ,antique jewell]y & its revival4 ,london1 #ahfb4 ,ca/ellani 7,a474 ,della orific]ia italiana4 ,rome1 #ahgb4 ,cell9i 7,b474 ,vita4 #agcj1 etc4 ,engli% translation by ,j4 ,a4 ,symonds4 #b vols4 ,london1 #ahhh4 ,cell9i 7,b474 ,due trattati4 #aefh1 #aheg1 etc4 ,treatises on goldsmi?+1 etc4 ,translat$ by ,c4 ,r4 ,a%bee4 ,london1 #ahih4 ,cell9i 7,b474 ,see ,*ur*ill 7,s4 ,j4 ,a474 ,bibliografia ,cell9iana4 ,cesnola 7,l4 ,p4 di74 ,cyprus4 ,london1 #ahgg4 ,*ipiez 7,c474 ,see ,p]rot 7,g474 ,*ur* 7,a4 ,h474 ,preci\s /ones4 ,second edition4 ,london1 #aije4 ,*ur*ill 7,s4 ,j4 ,a474 ,! goldsmi?s ( ,rome "u ! ,papal au?ority1 & a bibliography4 7,pap]s ( ! ,briti% ,s*ool at ,rome1 ,,iv1 p4 #afc47 #aijg4 ,*ur*ill 7,s4 ,j4 ,a474 ,bibliografia ,cell9iana4 ,flor5ce1 #aijg4 ,cl>emont 7,l474 ,! gem-cutt]'s craft4 ,london1 #aijf4 ,co*et 7,abb74 ,norm&ie s\t]ra9e4 ,second edition4 ,p>is1 #ahee4 ,co*et 7,abb74 ,le tombeau de ,*ildric ,ier4 ,p>is1 #ahei4 ,cook 7,e4 ,t474 ,a popul> h&book to ! ,greek & ,roman antiquities 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,london1 #aijc4 ,crok] 7,t4 ,c474 ,catalogue ( a collection ( 444 r+s & p]sonal ornam5ts =m$ = ,lady ,londesbor\gh4 ,london1 #ahec4 ,cum+ 7,h4 ,sy]74 ,articles 9 ! e>ly numb]s ( ! ,j\rnal ( ! ,briti% ,ar*ological ,association4 ,cunynghame 7,h4 ,h474 ,! !ory & practice ( art enamell+ ^u metals4 ,second edition4 ,london1 #aija4 ,cunynghame 7,h4 ,h474 ,european enamels4 ,london1 #aijf4 ,dalton 7,o4 ,m474 ,catalogue ( e>ly ,*ri/ian antiquities 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,london1 #aija4 ,dalton 7,o4 ,m474 ,! treasure ( ! ,oxus4 ,london1 #aije4 ,dalton 7,o4 ,m474 ,guide to ! ,m$ival ,room ( ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,london1 #aijg4 ,d>cel 7,a474 ,notice des maux et de l'orfvr]ie4 ,muse du ,l\vre4 ,p>is1 #ahfg4 ,d>emb]g 7,c4 ,v47 & ,saglio 7,e474 ,dictionnaire des antiquits grecques et roma9es4 ,p>is1 #ahgg4 ,dav5port 7,c4 ,j4 ,h474 ,anglo-,saxon gold & niello f+] r+s4 7,anglo-,saxon ,review1 ,v47 #aijj4 ,dav5port 7,c4 ,j4 ,h474 ,anglo-,saxon enamels on gold4 7,anglo-,saxon ,review1 ,,vii47 #aijj4 ,dav5port 7,c4 ,j4 ,h474 ,cameos4 ,london1 #aijj4 ,dav5port 7,c4 ,j4 ,h474 ,cantor lectures on ! hi/ory ( p]sonal jewell]y f prehi/oric times4 ,london1 #aijb4 ,dav5port 7,c4 ,j4 ,h474 ,jewell]y4 ,london1 #aije4 ,davilli] 7,b>on ,c474 ,re*]*es sur l'orfvr]ie 9 ,espagne4 ,p>is1 #ahgi4 ,dawson 7,mrs4 ,nelson74 ,enamels4 ,london1 #aijf4 ,day 7,l4 ,f474 ,enamell+4 ,london1 #aijg4 ,dcle 7,a474 ,hi/orique de la bij\t]ie franaise4 ,p>is1 #ahhi4 ,dehaisnes 7,c4 ,c4 ,a474 ,hi/oire de l'art dans la ,fl&re1 etc41 avant le ,,xve sicle4 #c vols4 ,lille1 #ahhf4 ,delo*e 7,m474 ,le port des anneaux dans l'antiquit roma9e4 ,p>is1 #ahif4 ,delo*e 7,m474 tude 444 sur les anneaux sigillaires et autres des premi]s sicles du moy5 ge4 ,p>is1 #aijj4 ,d5nis 7,g474 ,cities & cemet]ies ( ,etruria4 ,?ird edition4 ,london1 #ahhc4 ,e>le 7,a4 ,m474 ,two c5turies ( co/ume 9 ,am]ica4 #b vols4 ,new ,york1 #aijc4 ,e>le 7,j474 ,! ,alfr$ jewel4 ,ox=d1 #aija4 ,edw>ds 7,c474 ,! hi/ory & poetry ( f+]-r+s4 ,new ,york1 #ahee4 ,fairholt 7,f4 ,w474 ,rambles ( an ar*ologi/4 ,london1 #ahga4 ,fairholt 7,f4 ,w474 ,co/ume 9 ,engl&4 ,?ird edition4 #b vols4 ,london1 #ahhe4 ,fairholt 7,f4 ,w47 & ,wright 7,t474 ,miscellanea graphica4 ,london1 #aheg4 ,faussett 7,b474 ,inv5torium sepul*rale4 7,edit$ by ,c4 ,roa* ,smi?47 ,london1 #ahef4 ,font5ay 7,e474 ,les bij\x anci5s et mod]nes4 ,p>is1 #ahhg4 ,=r] 7,r474 ,ges*i*te des ,gold- und ,silb]s*muckes1 na* ,orig9al5 des ,/rassburg] hi/oris*e ,s*muck-,aus/ellung von #aijd4 ,/rasburg1 #aije4 ,=tnum 7,c4 ,d4 ,e47 ,articles 9 ,ar*ologia1 ,,xli1 ,,xlviii1 ,l2 & ,ar*ological ,j\rnal1 ,,xxvi1 ,,xxviii1 ,,xxix1 ,,xxxii1 ,,xxxiii1 ,,xxxvii4 ,f\rdrigni] 7,e474 tude sur les bracelets et colli]s gaulois4 ,p>is1 #ahib4 ,gay 7,v474 ,glossaire ar*ologique du moy5-ge et de la r5aissance4 ,p>is1 #ahhb4 ,gee 7,g4 ,e47 ,! jewell]'s assi/ant 9 ! art ( work+ 9 gold4 ,london1 #ahib4 ,gee 7,g4 ,e474 ,! goldsmi?'s h&book4 ,london1 #aijc4 ,giraud 7,j4 ,b474 ,les arts du mtal4 ,p>is1 #ahha4 ,goetze 7,a474 ,gotis*e ,s*nall54 ,b]l91 7#aijg74 ,gorlaeus 7,a474 ,dactylio!ca4 7,leyd57 #afja4 ,see also ,kir*mann 7,j474 ,gu>n]i 7,a474 ,esposizione nazionale di ,pal]mo4 ,catalogo della collezione di antica orefic]ia ed arg5t]ia raccolta di ,a4 ,g4 ,pal]mo1 #ahia4 ,guiffrey 7,j4 ,j47 ,inv5taires de ,jean1 duc de ,b]ry4 ,p>is1 #ahid-f4 ,guilm>d 7,d474 ,les matres ornemani/es4 ,p>is1 #ahhj-a4 ,hab]l&t 7,m474 ,die ,vlk]s*muck4 ,vi5na1 #aijf4 ,hadaczek 7,k474 ,d] ,ohrs*muck d] ,grie*5 und ,etrusk]4 ,vi5na1 #aijc4 ,hampel 7,j474 ,d] ,goldfund von ,nagy-,sz5t-,mikls1 sog5annt] ,s*atz des ,attila4 ,budape/1 #ahhe4 ,hampel 7,j474 ,das mittelalt]li*e ,drahtemail4 ,budape/1 #ahhh4 ,hampel 7,j474 ,alt]?m] des frh5 ,mittelalt]s 9 ,ung>n4 ,brunswick1 #aije4 ,hav>d 7,h474 ,hi/oire de l'orfvr]ie franaise4 ,p>is1 #ahif4 ,hefn]-,alt5eck 7,j4 ,h4 von74 ,deuts*e ,golds*mi$e-,w]ke des #af4 ,jahrhund]ts4 ,frank=t1 #ahij4 ,h5kel 7,f474 ,d] ,lors*] ,r+4 ,treves1 #ahif4 ,8 7,e474 ,dess9s d'ornem5ts de ,h4 ,holbe94 ,p>is1 #ahhf4 ,humann 7,g474 ,die ,kun/w]ke d] ,mn/]kir*e zu ,ess54 ,dusseldorf1 #aijd4 ,ilg 7,a474 ,see ,!ophilus4 ,ilg 7,a474 ,golds*mi$ekun/4 ,see ,bu*] 7,b474 ,jannettaz 7,e471 etc4 ,diamant et pi]res prcieuses4 ,p>is1 #ahha4 ,jones 7,w474 ,f+]-r+ lore4 ,london1 #ahgg4 ,jones 7,w474 ,hi/ory & my/]y ( preci\s /ones4 ,london1 #ahhj4 ,julia de ,font5elle 7,j4 ,s4 ,e474 ,manuels-,roret4 ,n\veau manuel complet du bij\ti]1 du joailli]1 de l'orfvre1 etc4 ,new edition4 #b vols4 ,p>is1 #ahee4 ,k+ 7,c4 ,w474 ,antique gems4 ,london1 #ahfj4 ,k+ 7,c4 ,w474 ,natural hi/ory ( preci\s /ones4 ,london1 #ahfg4 ,k+ 7,c4 ,w474 ,antique gems & r+s4 ,london1 #ahgb4 ,k+ 7,c4 ,w474 ,h&book ( engrav$ gems4 ,second edition4 ,london1 #ahhe4 ,kir*mann 7,j474 ,de annulis lib] s+ul>is4 ,acc$unt ,g4 ,longi1 ,a4 ,gorlaei1 et ,h4 ,kornmanni de iisdem tractatus absolutissimi4 ,lug4 ,bat41 #afgb4 ,kornmann 7,h474 ,see ,kir*mann 7,j474 ,lab>te 7,j474 ,hi/oire des arts indu/riels4 ,second edition4 #c vols4 ,p>is1 #ahgb-e4 ,lab>te 7,j474 ,inv5taire du mobili] de ,*>les ,v1 roi de ,france4 ,p>is1 #ahgi4 ,laborde 7,l4 de74 ,glossaire franais du moy5 ge4 ,new edition4 ,p>is1 #ahgb4 ,second "p ( ,notice des maux1 bij\x 444 exposs dans les gal]ies du ,l\vre4 ,p>is1 #ahec1 etc4 ,la ,croix 7,p47 & ,s] 7,f47 ,hi/oire de l'orfvr]ie-joaill]ie4 ,p>is1 #ahej4 ,lang 7,a474 ,portraits & jewels ( ,m>y ,/u>t4 ,glasg[1 #aijf4 ,lanza 7,pr9ce ,p474 ,donne et gioielli 9 ,sicilia nel m$io evo e nel r9ascim5to4 ,pal]mo1 #ahib4 ,la/eyrie 7,f4 de74 ,description du trsor de ,gu>raz>4 ,p>is1 #ahfj4 ,la/eyrie 7,f4 de74 ,hi/oire de l'orfvr]ie4 ,p>is1 #ahge4 ,lecl]cq 7,h474 ,manuel d'ar*ologie *rti5ne4 ,*ap4 ,,ix4 #b vols4 ,p>is1 #aijg4 ,less+ 7,j474 ,gold und ,silb]4 ,b]l91 #ahib4 ,liceti 7,f474 ,de anulis antiquis4 ,ut9i1 #afde4 ,li*tw>k 7,a474 ,d] ,ornam5t/i* d] deuts*5 ,frhr5aissance4 ,b]l91 #ahhh4 ,l9as 7,c4 de74 ,les orig9es de l'orfvr]ie cloisonn4 #c vols4 ,p>is1 #ahgg-hg4 ,l9d5s*midt 7,l474 ,alt]tm] uns]] heidnis*5 ,vorzeit4 ,ma9z1 #aheh-gc4 ,longus 7,g474 ,see ,kir*mann 7,j474 ,l\&re 7,c474 ,les arts somptuaires4 #c vols4 ,p>is1 #aheg-h4 ,lu?m] 7,f474 ,golds*muck d] ,r5aissance4 ,b]l91 #ahhj4 ,lu?m] 7,f474 ,d] ,s*atz des ,freih]rn ,k>l von ,ro?s*ild4 ,frank=t1 #ahhb4 ,lu?m] 7,f474 ,gold und ,silb]4 ,leipzig1 #ahhh4 ,lu?m] 7,f474 ,fhr] dur* die ,freih]rli* ,k4 von ,ro?s*ild's*e ,kun/sammlung4 ,frank=t1 #ahij4 ,lu?m] 7,f474 ,das ,email4 ,leipzig1 #ahib4 ,m>%all 7,f4 ,h74 ,catalogue ( ! f+] r+s1 ,greek1 ,etruscan1 & ,roman1 9 ! dep>tm5ts ( ,antiquities1 ,briti% ,museum4 ,london1 #aijg4 ,m>tigny 7,j4 ,a474 ,les anneaux *ez les premi]s *rti5s4 ,macon1 #aheh4 ,masp]o 7,g474 ,egyptian ar*ology4 ,london1 #ahhg4 ,mat?ias 7,j474 ,d] ,m5s*li*e ,s*muck4 ,liegnitz1 #ahga4 ,melani 7,a474 ,svaghi arti/ici femm9ili4 ,milan1 #ahia4 ,de ,mly 7,f47 & ,bi%op 7,e474 ,bibliographie gnrale des inv5taires imprims4 #b vols4 9 #c4 ,p>is1 #ahib-e4 ,mn>d 7,r474 ,hi/orie arti/ique du mtal4 ,p>is1 #ahha4 ,mol9i] 7,e474 ,b4 ,cell9i4 ,p>is1 #ahid4 ,mol9i] 7,e474 ,donation de 444 ,a4 de ,ro?s*ild4 ,muse du ,l\vre4 ,p>is1 #aijb4 ,mol9i] 7,e474 ,see ,buda-,pe/h3 ,exhibition1 #ahhd4 ,montelius 7,o474 ,antiquits sudoises4 ,/ockholm1 #ahgc-e4 ,montelius 7,o474 ,la civilization primitive en ,italie4 ,/ockholm1 #ahie4 ,neville 7,r4 ,c474 ,! romance ( ! r+4 ,saffron ,wald51 #ahef4 ,ni*ols 7,j474 ,! progresses ( ,que5 ,elizabe?4 #c vols4 ,london1 #ahbc4 ,ni*ols 7,j474 ,! progresses ( ,james ,i4 #d vols4 ,london1 #ahbh4 ,nicolas 7,n4 ,h474 ,te/am5ta vetu/a4 ,london1 #ahbf4 ,odobesco 7,a474 ,le trsor de ,ptrossa4 ,p>is1 #ahhi-aijj4 ,o]i 7,j4 ,j474 ,d] ,onyx von ,s*affhaus54 7,monographie d] hi/oris*-antiqu>is*5 ,v]e9s ,s*affhaus547 ,zuri* 7#ahhb74 ,ondes-,reggio 7,g4 d'74 ,sopra tre anelli anti*i ,greco-,siculi4 ,pal]mo1 #ahia4 ,ouv>(f 7,a474 ,antiquits du ,bosphore ,cimmri54 #c vols4 ,/4 ,pet]sburg1 #ahed4 ,palgrave 7,sir ,f474 ,anti5t kal5d>s & inv5tories ( ! treasury ( 8 maje/y's ,ex*equ]4 #c vols4 ,london1 #ahcf4 ,p>is3 ,muse des ,arts dcoratifs4 ,les n\velles collections4 ,no4 #aj4 ,bij\x4 ,p>is1 #aijg4 ,p]rot 7,g47 & ,*ipiez 7,c474 ,hi/oire de l'art dans l'antiquit4 #h vols4 ,p>is1 #ahhb-aijd4 ,plan* 7,j4 ,r474 ,! cyclopdia ( co/ume4 #b vols4 ,london1 #ahgf-i4 ,plon 7,e474 ,b5v5uto ,cell9i4 ,p>is1 #ahhc4 ,pollak 7,l474 ,klassis*-antike ,golds*mi$e>beit5 im ,besitze ,sr4 ,excell5z ,a4 ,j4 von ,nelid[4 ,leipzig1 #aijc4 ,poll5 7,j4 ,h474 ,anci5t & mod]n gold & silv]smi?s' "w 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum4 ,london1 #ahgh4 ,p\get 7,j4 ,h4 ,p474 ,trait des pi]res prcieuses4 ,p>is1 #agfb4 ,p\y 7,f474 ,re*]*es sur l'orfvr]ie et la bij\t]ie4 ,ami5s1 #ahgb4 ,price 7,f4 ,j4 ,hilton74 ,a h&book ( ,london bank]s4 ,london1 #ahij4 ,price 7,f4 ,j4 ,hilton74 ,! ,m>ygold by ,temple ,b>4 ,london1 #aijb4 ,pulszky 7,f4 von74 ,die ,goldfunde von ,szilgy-,somly4 ,budape/1 #ahij4 ,read 7,c4 ,h474 ,catalogue ( ! ,waddesdon beque/4 ,london1 #aijb4 ,reyn>d 7,o474 ,ornem5ts des anci5s matres4 #b vols4 ,p>is1 #ahde4 ,riao 7,j4 ,f474 ,indu/rial arts ( ,spa94 ,london1 #ahgi4 ,ri*>d 7,j4 ,m474 ,mahaut1 comtesse d',artois et de ,b\rgogne4 7#acjb-acbi47 ,p>is1 #ahhg4 ,ridgeway 7,w474 ,! e>ly age ( ,greece4 ,cambridge1 #aija4 ,riegl 7,a474 ,die sptrmis*e ,kun/-,indu/rie na* d5 ,fund5 9 /]rei*-,ung>n4 ,*ap4 ,,iv4 ,vi5na1 #aija4 ,riley 7,h4 ,t474 ,memorials ( ,london & ,london life4 7#abgf-adai47 ,london1 #ahfh4 ,rob]tson 7,j474 ,inu5taires de la ,royne ,descosse1 ,d\airi]e de ,france4 ,catalogue ( ! ,jewels1 etc41 ( ,m>y ,que5 ( ,scots1 #aeef-aefi4 7,bannatyne ,club4 ,edit$ by ,j4 ,r47 ,ed9burgh1 #ahfc4 ,rob9son 7,sir ,j4 ,c474 ,catalogue ( loan collection ( works ( art at ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum1 #ahfb4 ,london1 #ahfc4 ,rock 7,d474 ,! *ur* ( our fa!rs4 #c vols4 9 #d4 ,london1 #ahdi-ec4 ,rodocana*i 7,e474 ,la femme itali5ne l'poque de la ,r5aissance4 ,p>is1 #aijg4 ,rog]-,mils 7,l474 ,la bij\t]ie4 ,p>is1 #ahie4 ,ros5b]g 7,m474 ,aegypt9is*e ,e9lage 9 ,gold und ,silb]4 ,frank=t1 #aije4 ,ros5b]g 7,m474 ,niello4 ,frank=t1 #aijh4 ,rckl9 7,r474 ,das ,s*muckbu*4 ,leipzig1 #aija4 ,saglio 7,e474 ,see ,d>emb]g 7,c4 ,w474 ,s*auss 7,e4 von74 ,catalog d] knigli* bay]is*5 ,s*atzkamm] zu ,mn*54 ,muni*1 #ahgi4 ,s*liemann 7,h474 ,myc54 ,london1 #ahge4 ,s*liemann 7,h474 ,tiryns4 ,london1 #ahhf4 ,s*lodhau] 7,c474 lm5ts de bij\t]ie et joaill]ie mod]nes et anci5s4 ,p>is1 n4d4 ,s*neid] 7,f474 ,die ,ge/altung des ,r+es vom ,mittelalt] bis 9 die ,neuzeit4 ,nuremb]g1 #ahgh4 ,s*reib] 7,t474 ,die ,alex&r9is*e ,toreutik4 ,leipzig1 #ahid4 ,semp] 7,g474 b] die =melle ,gesetzmssigkeit des ,s*muckes und dess5 ,b$eutung als ,kun/symbol4 ,zuri*1 #ahef4 ,s] 7,f474 ,see ,la ,croix 7,p474 ,smi? 7,c4 ,roa*74 ,collectanea antiqua4 #f vols4 ,london1 #ahdc-fh4 ,smi? 7,c4 ,roa*74 ,catalogue ( ! museum ( ,london antiquities4 ,london1 #ahed4 ,smi? 7,c4 ,roa*74 ,see ,faussett 7,b474 ,inv5torium sepul*rale4 7,edit$ by ,c4 ,r4 ,s47 ,smi? 7,c4 ,roa*74 ,catalogue ( ,anglo-,saxon antiquities bequea!d by ,w4 ,gibbs to ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum4 ,second edition4 ,london1 #ahgc4 ,smi? 7,h4 ,clif=d74 ,! ,k+'s gems & jewels at ,w9dsor ,ca/le4 7,connoisseur1 ,,iv1 p4 #bba2 ,v1 pp4 #gg1 #bch47 #aijb-c4 ,smi? 7,r4 ,h4 ,sod574 ,! treasure ( ,petrossa4 ,london1 #ahfi4 ,smi? 7,r4 ,h4 ,sod574 ,catalogue ( loan collection ( anci5t & mod]n jewell]y & p]sonal ornam5ts4 7,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum47 ,london1 #ahgb4 ,smi? 7,sir ,william74 ,diction>y ( ,greek & ,roman antiquities4 ,?ird edition4 #b vols4 ,london1 #aija4 ,spitz] ,catalogue4 ,see ,bonnaff4 ,/ephani 7,l474 ,compte-r5du de la commission impriale ar*ologique p\r l'anne #ahei4 7,explication des objets tr\vs 444 en #aheh4 ,by ,l4 ,s47 ,/4 ,pet]sburg1 #ahfj4 ,/eph5s 7,g474 ,que5 ,dagm>'s cross4 ,london1 #ahfc4 ,/ockbau] 7,j474 ,d] ,metall-,s*muck 9 d] ,mu/]sammlung d] ,bay]is*5 ,gew]be-,museums zu ,nrnb]g4 ,nuremb]g1 #ahhg4 ,/rasburg4 ,/rassburg] hi/oris*e ,s*muck-,aus/ellung4 ,catalogue4 #aijd4 ,/reet] 7,g4 ,w474 ,preci\s /ones & gems4 ,london1 #ahgg4 ,/udio4 ,mod]n design 9 jewell]y & fans4 ,london1 #aijb4 ,symonds 7,j4 ,a474 ,see ,cell9i 7,b474 ,sz5drei 7,j474 ,catalogue de la collection de bagues ,t>nczy4 ,p>is1 #ahhi4 ,texi] 7,abb74 ,dictionnaire d'orfvr]ie4 ,p>is1 #aheg4 ,!ophilus4 ,s*$ula ,div]s>um ,artium4 ,ilg 7,a474 7,eitelb]g] von ,edelb]g4 ,quell5s*rift51 etc4 ,,vii47 ,vi5na1 #ahgd4 ,engli% translation by ,r4 ,h5drie4 ,london1 #ahdg4 ,?omson 7,t474 ,collection ( inv5tories 444 ( ! royal ,w>drobe & ,jewelh\se ( ,scotl&1 #adhh-afjf4 ,ed9burgh1 #ahae4 ,v]ni] 7,e474 ,la bij\t]ie et la joaill]ie gypti5nes4 7,in/itut franais d',ar*ologie ori5tale du ,caire1 ,mmoires1 ,,ii47 ,cairo1 #aijg4 ,vev] 7,h474 ,la bij\t]ie franaise au ,,xix sicle4 ,p>is1 #aijf4 ,vi5na3 ,k4 ,k4 ,oe/]r4 ,museum fr ,kun/ und ,indu/rie4 ,illu/ri]t] ,katalog d] ,ornam5t/i*sammlung4 ,vi5na1 #ahhi4 ,viollet-le-,duc 7,e4 ,e474 ,dictionnaire raisonn du mobili] franais4 ,p>is1 #aheh-ge4 ,wahl5 7,a474 ,ordres de *eval]ie et m>ques d'honneur4 ,brussels1 #ahdd4 ,wakeman 7,w4 ,f474 ,h&book ( ,iri% antiquities4 ,eigh? edition4 ,dubl91 #aijc4 ,walt]s 7,h4 ,b474 ,! art ( ! ,greeks4 ,london1 #aijf4 ,wat]ton 7,e474 ,dactylio!ca ,waltonia4 ,,ms41 ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4 #ahff4 ,wat]ton 7,e474 ,articles 9 ,ar*ological ,j\rnal1 ,,xvi1 ,,xx1 ,,xxi4 ,way 7,a474 ,promptorium p>vulorum4 ,london1 #ahfe4 ,way 7,a474 ,articles 9 ,ar*ological ,j\rnal1 ,,vi1 ,,vii1 ,,xvi1 ,,xix1 ,,xxv4 ,wessely 7,j4 ,e474 ,das ,ornam5t und die ,kun/9du/rie4 #c vols4 ,b]l91 #ahgg-h4 ,wigley 7,t4 ,b474 ,! art ( ! goldsmi? & jewell]4 ,london1 #ahih4 ,wilde 7,sir ,w4 ,r4 ,w474 ,catalogue ( ! antiquities ( gold 9 ! ,museum ( ! ,royal ,iri% ,academy4 ,dubl91 #ahfb4 ,wilson 7,h474 ,silv]smi?'s "w & jewell]y4 ,london1 #aijc4 ,wright 7,t474 ,! ,celt1 ! ,roman1 & ! ,saxon4 ,second edition4 ,london1 #ahfa4 ,wright 7,t474 ,see ,fairholt 7,f4 ,w474 ,miscellanea graphica4 ,,index 4,aah-h4etep1 #c1 #e ,becket1 ,?omas4 ,see ,?omas ,becket ,ab]=d 7,yorks71 #gb ,ab+don broo*1 #fj ,acorn-%ap$ p5dants1 ,pho5ician1 #aj ,acorn-%ap$ p5dants1 worn by ,h5ry ,,viii1 #bjf ,acton1 ,john1 #cjb1 #cjd ,acus1 xli1 xlii1 #fj1 #abg ,adalb]t ( ,saxony1 #acg ,adams 7pott]71 #cae ,adriatic1 #hc jewell]y1 #bdf1 #cdg gean1 #ab gides1 #f ,aetites1 #abb ,aglets1 #bfh-i ,agnus ,dei1 #gb1 #abb ,agnolo1 ,luca1 #ahe ,agrafes1 #adj ,aigrettes1 ,hung>ian1 #aih jewell$1 #bcj1 #bca sockets =1 #bcj #ag c5t41 #bcj1 #bca1 #bha1 #bij1 #bia1 #cjc #ah c5t41 #cji1 #cab1 #caf1 #cag ,aigulets1 #bfh ,aix-la-,*apelle1 ,treasury1 #aah1 #aci ,albacete1 #i ,alb]t ,v1 ,duke ( ,bav>ia1 #aid ,,vi1 ,duke ( ,bav>ia1 #bdh ,alb9i1 ,d4 ,m41 #cji ,alciatus1 ,a41 #bbc ,aldegrev]1 ,h41 #ahe1 #aic1 #aid1 #bej1 #bei ,al5on1 ,pi]re d'1 #cdc1 #ceg ,alex&ria1 #ic ,alfonso ,i1 ,duke ( ,f]r>a1 #aeh ,,ii1 ,duke ( ,f]r>a1 #bib ,alfr$ ! 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neck4 ,see also ,necklaces & ,neck-*a9s ,*alke1 ,agnes1 #ajf ,*amb]la91 ,john1 #bii ,*amill>t1 ,mdme de1 #cad1 #cbj ,*ansons1 #aeb ,*antilly1 #afh1 #ahe ,*ape ( girdle1 xlvi1 #afj1 #bga ,*apeau montabyn 7montauban71 #bbd1 #bca ,*apelet1 #abe ,*apeletz1 #ic1 #aje ,*ap]on1 #aef1 #bbi ,*aplets1 m$l41 #aje ,*>d91 ,sir ,john1 #bgh1 #cje ,*>ity1 figure (1 on ,r5aiss4 p5dants1 #bdd ,*>lemagne1 #ee1 #fe1 #hc1 #hd1 #aah ,*>les ,i1 ,k4 ( ,engl&1 #baj1 #bai1 #bcj1 #bhh1 #cjj1 #cjd1 #cje1 #ced ,i1 ,k4 ( ,engl&1 e>r+s (1 #bce1 #ced ,i1 ,k4 ( ,engl&1 memorial jewell]y (1 #cfg ,,ii1 ,k4 ( ,engl&1 #bib1 #cje ,v1 ,k4 ( ,france1 #hh1 #aii cameo (1 #ajc1 #acj ,,viii1 ,k4 ( ,france1 #aii ,,ix #aii1 #bjj ! ,bold1 ,duke ( ,burgundy1 #ajg1 #bji1 #bca ! ,great1 ,emp]or ( ! ,we/4 ,see ,*>lemagne ,*>lotte1 ,q4 ( ,engl&1 #cac1 #cag ,*>ms1 #ii-ajd1 #aaa-abj ,*>tres1 ,treasury (1 #ajc ,*teaubri&1 ,c\ntess (1 #aha ,*atela9es1 xlvii ,anglo-,saxon1 #fc m$l41 #afa p9*beck1 #caf #ag c5t41 #bih #ah c5t41 #caj1 #cab1 #cac1 #cbb1 #cbc ,*aton1 xlv ,*auc]1 #ic1 #id1 #aji1 #abi1 #acj n41 #afd ,*elsea1 r+ f\nd at1 #gc ,*ep/[1 ,monm\?%ire1 #df ,*ron1 #cad ,*iflet1 ,j4 ,j41 #ec ,*ild1 ,sir ,francis1 #cje1 #cjf ,*ild's ,bank1 #cjf ,*ild]ic ,i1 ,k4 ( ! 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( ,gold1 ,field (1 #bjg1 #bcg ,cloisonn enamel4 ,see ,enamel inlay1 #c1 #ce1 #ej1 #ef ,coats-(-arms on r+s1 #ca1 #aec ,cobra snake1 #b ,coello1 ,a4 ,s41 #bid ,coiffure1 ,pho5ician1 #i ,see also ,head-ornam5ts ,co9s 9 ,anglo-,saxon jewell]y1 #ei 9 ,byzant9e jewell]y1 #cf 9 ,roman jewell]y1 #cj1 #cb ,colb]t1 ,j4 ,b41 #bhb ,coll>1 gold1 anci5t ,iri%1 #dc ( ,ord] ( ,gold5 ,fleece1 #ij ( ,"l ,mayor ( ,london1 #aag ,,ss coll>1 #aaf-ag ,coll>s1 ,egyptian1 #e m$l41 #aac-aag ,see also ,necklaces ,colla]t1 ,h41 #aid1 #aif1 #aig1 #bcd1 #bdg ,collet1 xlv ,colli] ( ,m>ie ,anto9ette1 #cah ,cologne ,ca!dral1 #aaa1 #ade ,cologne1 ,episcopal museum1 #ade ,wallraf-,ri*>tz museum1 #ade ,columban1 #ff ,combs1 ,empire1 #ai c5t41 #cbh jewell$1 m$l41 #ajg #ai c5t41 #cbi ,com9es1 ,philip de1 #aji1 #aaj ,commonweal?1 ,engl&1 #cje ,compo/ella1 #aji %r9e ( ,/4 ,james1 #ia ,conques1 #ajb1 #acg ,treasury1 #aab1 #acg ,consolav]a1 ,j4 ,b4 de1 #bjh ,con/ant9e1 #cc1 #bbf ,con/ant9ople1 #cc1 #cd1 #di f\ndation (1 #cc sack (1 #ch ,coral1 9 ,dut* peasant jewell]y1 #cde m$l4 use (1 #abc #ai c5t41 #cbh ,corbeil1 ,our ,lady (1 #acg ,corbizi1 ,litti di ,filippo1 #age ,corn>o1 ,cat>9a1 #bfd ,cornette1 #ajg ,corni% diamonds1 #ceg ,coronals1 ,italy1 #ae c5t41 #afi m$l41 #ajf r\nd hat1 #bbd ,coronets1 #ajf n4 m$l41 #ajf #ai c5t41 #cbh ,corsage1 jewell$1 #cjh ,cosse de pois ornam5t1 #bha1 #bic1 #big ,co/ant9i1 ,g4 ,b41 #bhd ,cteh>di1 #bfg ,c\lant1 #cdb1 #cde ,c\nt]feit1 #cee /ones sold to ,h5ry ,,viii1 #bjh ,c\rroye1 #bgj ,cov5try1 ,/4 ,m>y's ,hall1 #aae r+1 #aej ,cramp1 r+s worn aga9/1 #aeb ,crana*1 ,lucas1 #ahi1 #bch1 #bej1 #bei1 #bfa1 #bfd ,crapaud9e1 #aea ,crete1 #h ,crimea1 #i1 #ab1 #ad1 #ej ,crivelli1 ,c>lo1 #afg ,lucrezia1 #agb ,cromwell1 ,oliv]1 #bic1 #bid1 #cje ,?omas1 #bjh1 #bac ,crosby1 ,sir ,john1 #aae ,cross1 p5d5t1 ,byzant9e1 #cf m$l41 #aah peasant1 #cdb ,r5aiss41 #bdb-c ! ,true1 relics (1 #aah ,visigo?ic 7,gu>raz>71 #ed ,crotalia1 #bh ,cr[n1 ,alfr$ ,jewel1 z ornam5t ( a1 #fi ( ,?orns1 relic (1 #aah1 #aai ,cr[ns1 xxxix1 #ajf ,byzant9e1 #ce ,greek1 #ag ,myc5an1 #aa ,sc&9avian peasant1 #cdf ,visigo?ic1 #ec1 #ed ,croy1 ,celtic broo* f1 #gg ,crusad]s1 #cd ,crusades1 influ5ce on jewell]y1 #aja jewell]y br\ght back f1 #hd1 #ic ,cryspyn1 ,john1 #bjh ,cry/al1 #cac1 #cdb1 #cdc1 #cdg1 #cef1 #ceg ( ,lo?air1 #aci ,cuir b\illi1 #ig ,cunynghame1 ,h4 ,h41 #ce1 #hf1 #cci ,cupre\s glaze1 #b ,cu?b]t1 ,/41 #fh ,cyprus1 #h1 #aj1 #ab1 #ba ,d41 ,a41 #bhe ,dagob]t1 ,k4 ( ! ,franks1 #aee1 #bbb ,dalton1 ,o4 ,m41 #cd n1 #ea n4 ,dance ( ,dea?1 #cfc ,danes1 invasion (1 #fh ,danube1 ,iri% mission>ies on1 #fg valley1 enamel-"w1 #aih ,d>k ,ages1 #ea ,d>nley1 ,h5ry1 #bag jewel1 #bag1 #beg ,d>trey1 ,e>l (1 #bhh ,da%r1 #e ,dauffe1 #cai ,dauph91 badge (1 #aaj ,dav5port1 ,c4 ,j4 ,h4 7quot$71 #ga ,david1 ,g]>d1 #adj1 #aee1 #bfc ,j4 ,l41 #cbf1 #cbi ,davies1 ,g4 ,s4 7quot$71 #cea1 #ceb ,davilli]1 ,b>on ,c41 #bjb1 #bdi ,davy1 ,william1 #bjh ,dawson1 ,nelson1 #cci ,dea?'s head1 #cfd-g ,de ,boot1 ,a41 #ajj ,debruge-,dumnil collection1 #acj1 #bde ,de ,bruyn1 ,abraham1 #aig ,de ,bull1 ,h41 #bhd ,defonta9e1 ,j41 #bhb ,de ,heem1 ,jan1 #bhg ,de ,he]e1 ,lucas1 #beb1 #ceb ,de la ,quewell]ie4 ,see ,la ,quewell]ie ,delaune1 ,eti5ne1 #aig1 #bja1 #bgb ,de ,leeuw1 ,john1 #aee ,demi-ce9t1 or demys5t1 #afd ,desbor\gh 7,nor?ants71 #gd ,devant de corsage1 #cah ,devices1 #bbc on ,elizabe?an jewell]y1 #baf-g ,r5aiss41 sewn to g>m5ts1 #bfh ,devise1 #bbc1 #cfe ,dextro*]ium1 #cj ,diadems1 xxxix ,byzant9e1 #cd ,egyptian1 #c ,etruscan1 #bc ,greek1 #af1 #ag m$l41 #ajf ,engli%1 #ic ,pho5ician1 #i ,roman1 #bh #ai c5t41 #cbh ,diamant d' ,al5on1 #cdc ,diamond1 #bgf-i ( ,*>les ! ,bold1 #bji e>r+s ( ,m>ie ,anto9ette1 #cag necklace ( ,m>ie ,anto9ette1 #cah ,diamonds1 ! brilliant1 #bgi ,bri/ol1 #bce1 #bei & n4 cutt+ (1 #bcj1 #bgg-i false1 #bce1 #cac1 #cad1 #ceg 9 pictures1 #cea ! po9t1 #bgg1 #bgh po9t$1 9 r+s1 #bfj 9 ,r5aiss4 jewell]y1 #agi 9 r+s1 #ag c5t41 #bif rose cut1 #bhb1 #caj 9 ,flemi% peasant jewell]y1 #cde roses1 #bgh-i table1 #bgh-i taille en seize1 #bgi use (1 9 e>ly jewell]y1 #bgg 9 #ah c5t4 jewell]y1 #cjh1 #cai ,dick5s1 ,*>les 7quot$71 #cfi ,dietri*1 #cci ,d9&]ie1 #aab n4 ,d+l+]1 ,george ,fri$ri*1 #caj ,johann ,mel*ior1 #caj 7junior71 #caa ,d9teville1 ,jean de1 #cfe ,dionysius ( ,halic>nassus1 #bj ,dionysos1 #bd ,dipty*s1 p5d5t1 m$l41 #aai-bj ,directory1 #cbe-f ,discs ( gold4 ,see ,plates ( gold ,dog 7,talbot71 on ,r5aiss4 p5dants1 #bdi ,dombild1 #ade ,dor*e/] ,h\se4 ,see ,london ,d\ce1 ,francis1 #ec1 #bfd ,d\glas1 ,lady ,m>g>et1 #bag ,d\ffet1 ,g]>d1 #bif ,dove1 symbol ( ,holy ,gho/1 #bdi 9 peasant jewell]y1 #cdc ,d[gate ,hill broo*1 #fi ,dragon1 ,r5aiss4 p5dant 9 =m (1 #bdi ,drake1 ,sir ,francis1 #bec1 #bff1 #ced ,sir ,f4 ,full]-,eliott1 #bah1 #bcj n41 #bec jewels1 #bah1 #bcj n41 #cec ,draw+s = jewell]y by ,b>celona goldsmi?s1 #bjb ,draw+s = jewell]y by ,sir ,f4 ,*ild1 #cjf by ,dr]1 #aij by ,holbe91 #baj-bac by ,lulls1 #cjb by ,mieli*1 #aie by ! ,sant9i family1 #cjh ,drury ,=tnum4 ,see ,=tnum ,dresd51 ,picture ,gall]y1 #bfa ,grne ,gewlbe1 #bea1 #caa ,dress1 ornam5ts sewn on1 anci5t ,iri%1 #dc ,r5aiss41 #bfh ,dress-fa/5]s1 prehi/oric1 xliii anci5t ,briti%1 #da ,dress*e1 ,re9ecke van1 #aci ,du ,b>ry1 ,madame1 #cag ,du ,bellay1 ,g41 #bjg ,dubl91 ,iri% ,national ,museum1 #db1 #dd1 #gg1 #gh ,national ,gall]y ( ,irel&1 #bej ,royal ,iri% ,academy1 #db1 #gh ,tr9ity ,college1 #gh ,dubois1 ,paul1 #cci ,duc]ceau4 ,see ,&r\et ,duc]ceau ,duflos1 ,augu/1 #cab1 #cag ,du ,fresnoy1 ,c4 ,a41 #cec ,dun/an1 ,/41 #fg ,dr]1 ,a41 #ahe1 #ahg1 #aij1 #aia1 #bej ,du ,suau de la ,croix1 ,comte1 #cch ,duvet1 ,jean1 #bjj ,eagle ,fibula1 #ace ,eagle /ones1 #abb ,eanr$1 #gb ,e>le1 ,j41 #fi ,e>-picks1 ,r5aiss41 #bej-a ,e>r+s1 xxxix1 xl ,anglo ,saxon1 #eh anci5t ,briti%1 #dj ,byzant9e1 #ce1 #cg 9 ,middle ,ages1 #aab ,egyptian1 #d ,engli%1 #af-ag c5t41 #bcd-e ,etruscan1 #bc ,franki%1 #eh ,greek1 #ae1 #af m$l41 #aab1 #aac ,engli%1 #ib worn by m51 #bcd-e1 #ccb ,m]ov+ian1 #eh ,pho5ician1 #i ,r5aiss41 #bcc-e ,roman1 #bh-i #ag c5t41 #bia #ah #cji1 #cag #ai #cbh ,ea/ ,anglia1 #fj ,edict ( ,nantes1 #cje ,ed9burgh1 ,high ,/reet1 #acc ,/4 ,giles' ,*ur*1 #acc ,national ,museum ( ,antiquities1 #gg1 #acb1 #aej1 #afe ,edm]1 #ib ,edw>d ! ,confessor1 ,k4 ( ,engl&1 #ib1 #ajb1 #aah ,i1 ,k4 ( ,engl&1 #fg1 #ib ,,ii #ic1 #afb ,,iii #ic1 #aba1 #afa1 #afb ,,iv #aae1 #aaf ,,vi #bah1 #bai ,pray] ,book (1 #bgd ,,vii #bag1 #bbd ,effigies1 sepul*ral1 jewell]y on1 #hb ,egl5t9e1 ,prioress1 jewel worn by1 #abi ,egyptian jewell]y1 #a-g1 #di ,el*1 ,lady (1 #i1 #aj ,electrum1 primitive ,italy1 #bd ,el5*i1 #bh ,eligius1 ,/4 ,see ,eloy ,elizabe?1 ,q4 ( ,bohemia1 #cja ,engl&1 #bac-bj1 #bcb1 #bcd1 #bcg1 #bci1 #bea-bef1 #bfe1 #bfg1 #bfi1 #bgc1 #cja ,gonzaga1 ,du*ess ( ,urb9o1 #agb ,eloy1 or ,eloi1 ,/41 #fg1 #aee ,em]alds1 ,spani%1 #bje ,empire jewell]y1 #cbf ,enamel1 #di ,batt]sea1 #cbj basse-taille1 #hg1 #ig1 #ach ,bil/on1 #cbj ,byzant9e1 #ce ,celtic1 #da *amplev1 ,engli%1 #af c5t41 #baa m$l41 #he1 #ach ,romano-,briti%1 #de on r+s1 #ag c5t41 #bie ,spani%1 #ag c5t41 #bjd #af-ag c5t41 #bhc etc4 #ag c5t41 #bib cloisonn1 #gj1 #acf1 #bhc ,anglo-,saxon1 #ff1 #fh ,byzant9e1 #ce1 #cf m$l41 #hd ,t>a broo*1 #ff1 #gh ,egyptian1 #c mail en blanc1 #hg mail en rsille sur v]re1 #bgc1 #bic1 #bif mail en ronde bosse1 #hg1 #bbe ,engli% #af c5t41 #baf #ah #cac filigree enamel1 7,draht-,email71 #aih1 #cdg ,fr5*1 #ah c5t41 #caa1 #cab ,gallo-,roman1 #df gold wire1 #bbd ,greek1 #ac1 #ae1 #ag ,hispano-,moresque1 #bje ,iri%1 #ff1 #gh ,limoges1 m$l41 #hf ,r5aiss4 = enseignes1 #bbi ,l\is ,treize1 #bhf1 #bhi1 #bic m$l41 #hd-hh opaque1 ,fr5*1 #af c5t41 #aii1 #bjj pa9t$1 #cdf1 #cdg on peasant jewell]y1 #cdd1 #cdg #ag c5t41 #bhe1 #bib1 #bic1 #bie ,r5aiss41 #ahj ,romano-,briti%1 #de ,t\t9 fir+ an1 #bhe1 #bhi translusc5t1 #ag c5t41 #bhc #ah #cab ,see ,basse-taille :ite1 mail en blanc1 #hg #ag c5t41 g5]al1 #bhc1 #bih on wat*es1 #big #ah c5t41 #cab #ai c5t41 revival (1 #ccg ,engl&1 m$l4 jewell]y1 #ia-ih #af c5t4 jewell]y1 #bjf-bba #ag #bii-cjf #ah #caj ,engrav$ designs = jewell]y1 ,engli%1 #ah c5t41 #caj1 #cab ,engrav$ designs = jewell]y1 ,fr5*1 #af c5t41 #bjj1 #bja ,engrav$ designs = jewell]y1 ,flemi%1 #af c5t41 #aif1 #aig ,engrav$ designs = jewell]y1 ,g]man1 #af c5t41 #ahf-g1 #aia-d ,engrav$ designs = jewell]y1 #ag c5t41 #bhj-i1 #bia-h ,engrav$ designs = jewell]y1 #ah c5t41 #cjh-aj1 #cab1 #cbj ,engrav$ gems1 antique1 9 m$l4 jewell]y1 #adh1 #aec1 #aed m$l4 use (1 #aja-d 9 r+s1 ,romano-,briti%1 #dg #af c5t41 #bbg1 #bde #ai c5t41 #cbf1 #cbg ,enkomi1 ,cyprus1 #ab ,enseignes1 #aef1 #afi m$l41 #ajg-aaa1 #adf ,r5aiss41 #bbb-bcj1 #bfg ) skulls1 #cfd1 #cfe ,equipage1 #cbc ,erasmus1 ,d41 #aji ,eros1 #ae1 #af ,esc>celle1 #afe ,esclavo1 #bjd ,esc(fion1 #ajg1 #aef ,esguillettes1 #bfi ,espreuves1 #abc ,ess51 ,treasury (1 #adc m$l4 broo*es at1 #adc-ade ,ess5ce d'ori5t1 #ceh ,e/ampes1 ,du*ess (1 #aha ,e/e1 ,beatrice d'1 ,du*ess ( ,milan4 ,see ,beatrice ,isabella d'1 ,m>*ioness ( ,mantua4 ,see ,isabella ,e/r5nes1 #aec1 #bac ,e!lb]t1 ,k4 ( ,k5t1 #fe ,e!ls)1 #ga r+ (1 #gb ,e!lwulf1 ,k4 ( ,wessex1 #ga r+ (1 #gb ,e?r$1 #gb ,eton ,college1 #aae ,etruscan goldsmi?s1 #h jewell]y1 #bj-bf1 #ccc tuis1 ,eng41 #ah c5t41 #cji1 #caj1 #cbc p9*beck1 #caf ,r5aiss41 #bgb ,eudel1 ,p41 #cfj1 #cfb ,euphues1 #bgc ,eu/a*io1 ,fra1 #age ,evans1 ,a4 ,j41 #dc ,sir ,j41 #dg1 #fb1 #bif ,evelyn1 ,john1 #bih1 #bii1 #cfg ,evil ,eye1 #afd1 #bej ,exet] ,book1 #eg ,exmewe1 ,?omas1 #bjh ,ex voto1 #acf ,eyck1 van1 #ajf ,john van1 #ij1 #aee ,eyelets1 ,r5aiss41 #bfh ,eymak]1 #caj ,faon d',anglet]re1 #afb ,fahrn]1 ,t41 #cci ,fai5ce1 ,egyptian1 #b1 #g ,falize1 ,luci51 #cce ,falkl&1 ,visc\nt1 #bie ,fane1 ,sir ,s4 ,ponsonby1 #cbb ,fans1 ,r5aiss41 susp5d$ to girdles1 #bgb ,fa%ion1 influ5ce on jewell]y1 #bh1 #hj1 #agh1 #cgj ,fausse montre1 #cbd ,fav]%am1 #eg ,fay1 ,j4 ,b41 #cab1 #cag ,fea!rs1 jewell$1 z aigrettes1 #ag c5t41 #bca ,fea!r jewel = hats1 ,engli%1 #ag c5t41 #cjj ,f$eli1 ,ercole1 #aeh ,f$]1 von1 #aij ,f$]igo ( ,montefeltro1 ,duke ( ,urb9o1 #aga ,felic9i alt>-piece1 #agj ,felic9i1 ,b>tolomeo1 #agj ,felsp>1 gre51 #c ,f5wolf1 ,morgan1 #bjh ,f]d9& ( ,tirol1 ,ar*duke1 #ahh ,f]5zuola1 ,giovanni da1 #ahe ,f]mail1 #ic1 #abh1 #aca1 #acg1 #ada ,f]mailleurs1 #aca ,f]ronnire1 #agb1 #cbh ,fessey1 ,j41 #caj ,fibul1 xlii1 xliii1 #abg ,anglo-,saxon1 #ei1 #abg ,byzant9e1 #cd ,etruscan1 #bd ,roman1 xlii ,romano-,briti%1 xlii1 #df spectacle1 xlii ,see also ,broo*es ,field ( ,clo? ( ,gold1 #bjg1 #bcg ,filigree1 #ai ,byzant9e1 #ce influ5ce 9 ,europe1 #ce ,etruscan1 #bd gold1 9 ,portuguese jewell]y1 #cdg gold1 9 #ag c5t4 memorial jewell]y1 #cfh ,greek1 #ac1 #af 9 ,jewi% w$d+ r+s1 #bfb silv]1 9 ,g]man peasant jewell]y1 #cdf ,fillets1 xxxix ,etruscan1 #bc m$l41 #aje ,pho5ician1 #i ,roman1 #bh ,f+] r+s4 ,see ,r+s ,f+]-r+ ,lore1 #bif ,f9igu]ra1 ,tommaso 7,maso71 #afh ,fir5s1 ,p41 #bic ,firmacula1 #ib1 #ach ,fi%]1 ,alex&]1 #cci ,fitzh>d+e1 ,"l1 #gc1 #bgd ,fla*1 ,?omas1 #caj ,fl&]s1 influ5ce (1 9 #ae c5t41 #adb ,fleece1 ,gold51 #bd ,ord] (1 #ij ,flemi%-,burgundian jewell]y1 #adc-f1 #bac ,flemi% broo*es1 #ae c5t41 #adf pa9t+s1 jewell]y 91 #hi-ij peasant jewell]y1 #cde ,r5aiss4 #aif1 #aig ,fleurs-de-lis1 #ic1 #ajf ,flor5ce1 #afg ,b>gello4 ,see ,museo ,nazionale ,ca!dral1 #age ,museo ,nazionale 7,b>gello71 #acj ,museo ,nazionale 7,b>gello71 ,c>r& collection1 #ade ,pitti ,gall]y1 #agj1 #bcc1 #bid ,sp$ale di ,santa ,m>ia ,nuova1 #aad ,uffizi ,gall]y1 #aad1 #aag1 #add1 #afh1 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,t\ssa9t1 ,augu/us1 #cac ,t\t91 ,h41 #bhe1 #bie ,j41 #bhe1 #bic1 #bie ,j41 9 8 work%op1 #bhi ,tovaloccio ,pi]o1 ,giovanni & ,romolo del1 #ahe ,t[] ( ,london4 ,see ,london ,t[nley broo*1 #gj ,toys1 ,toyman1 #caf ,tradescant1 ,john1 ! y\ng]1 wife (1 #bih ,transluc5t enamel on relief4 ,see ,enamel1 basse-taille ,transylvania1 #eh ,traquair1 ,mrs41 #cci ,treasure ho>ds1 #ea ,trove1 #dd ,treasuries1 jewell]y pres]v$ 91 #hc ,tr5d]1 ,pet]1 #bbj ,tress\res1 #ic1 #aje ,triplet1 #ceg ,tripty*s1 p5d5t1 #aai-bj ,triquetra1 #gh ,triton1 p5dant 9 =m (1 #bdc1 #bdi ,troad1 #i ,trumpet patt]n1 ,celtic1 #dc on ,t>a broo*1 #gh1 #gi ,tu*]1 ,b>on1 collection (1 #bbe ,tulipomania1 #bhf ,tulips pa9t$ on enamel1 #bhf ,turkey /one1 #aea ,turquoise1 #c1 #fg1 #aea ,turn] 7pott]71 #cae ,tuscany1 s*ools ( pa9t+1 #afg ,twiselton1 ,john1 #bjh ,tymbory*oi1 #ac ,tyrol1 peasant jewell]y1 #cdf ,tyszkiewicz1 ,c\nt1 #ag1 #cfj ,tytl]1 ,p4 ,fras]1 #beg ,uck]-,m>k 7,n4 ,g]many71 #bfg ,ugadale broo*1 #acc ,uffila broo*1 #fb 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,nicolas1 #bjh ,wrea?s1 ,byzant9e1 #ce ,greek1 #af m$l41 #aje ,wright1 ,t41 #aja ,wykeham1 ,william (1 ,bi%op ( ,w9*e/]1 #if-h1 #adb1 #adi ,yecla1 #i ,york ,m9/]1 #ach %r9e ( ! head ( ,/4 ,william1 #ada ,z]r5d51 ,f41 #cci ,zona1 #ic ,zuc*]o1 ,f41 #bec1 #ceb1 #cec ,zundt1 ,ma?ias1 #aid ,,pr9t$ ,,by ,,william ,,br5don ,,& ,,son1 ,,ltd4 ,,plym\?